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^u
&
MANUAL
"^T^^^jJltA^^
OP
MODERN GEOGRAPHY
MATHEMATICAL, PHYSICAL, AND POUTICAL
ON A NEW PLAN " r
EMBRACING A COMPLETE DEVELOPMENT OP THE RIVER
8TSTEMS OF THE GLOBE
BY THE
EEV. ALEXf^CKAY, LL.D. RRG.S.
AUTHOR OF
' FACTS AND DATES ; ' * ELEMENTS OF MODERN OEOORAPHT ; ' ' OUTLINES OF
MODERN GEOGRAPHY ; ' * FIRST STEPS IN GEOGRAPHY ; ' * PHYSIO-
GRAPHY AND PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY,' ETC.
TENTH THOUSAND, REVISED TO DATE OF PUBLICATION
WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS
EDINBURGH AND LONDON
MDCCCLXXXI
^7/)
PEEFACE TO SECOND EDITION.
I
Tma edition of the Manual of Modem Geography has been
tborooghly revised throughout, and in numerous sections
entirely rewritten. The Manual was the Author's literary
firstborn, and on it were fondly lavished all the privileges
and affections inseparable from primogeniture. Many long
years were cheerfully devoted to ita first production, when
the Author bad to labour single-banded, in a remote cornel
of the land, with few hooks and still fewer friends to con-
sult. He had hia reward, however, in the emphatic ver-
dict of the public prese, and the unqualified approbation
of eminent educationists from all parte of the Dritish
Empire.
As the First Edition, however, consisted of a very laige
impression, wellnigh a decade of years has elapsed since
ita preparation, and in that decade numerous changes have
taken place in all departments of Geography, as also in all
the sciences with which it stands most closely connected.
In order, therefore, to place the work a second time wholly
abreast of the progress of events, no less than an entire
interrupted labour has been devoted to this
Edition,
A large portion of the Political Geography had to be
recast, especially the sections relating to the British Isles,
North Germany, France, Italy, Russia, India, the United
States, and the Eritiah Colonies ; while those bearing on
Astronomy, Geology, Meteorology, Commerce, Manufac-
tures, and Inland Communication, had to be rewritten.
33V917,
iy PREFACE.
In this Edition, a brief Historical Sketcli has been added
to the Political Geography of all European countries, as
also several new Diagrams illustrative of the Seasons, the
Tides, and the Succession of Life in the pre- Adamite ages
of our Planet's history. It is hoped that the work will be
found increasingly useful to Teachers, Advanced Classes,
Candidates for the Civil Service (Home and Foreign), and
especially as a work of reference.
Edinburgh, 15ih May 1870.
PREFACE TO SEVENTH THOUSAND.
In preparing this edition for press, the entire work has
been subjected to another thorough revision. All political
changes are represented; the social, commercial, and in-
dustrial statistics of all countries are brought down to the
latest dates ; the rapid progress of geographical discovery,
especi^y in Africa and the Polar regions, is duly notified ;
while the splendid contributions made to the Physical
Greography of the Sea by the Challenger and other expedi-
tions have been carefully epitomised.
NOTE TO TENTH THOUSAND.
In this edition, besides very many corrections through-
out the work, effect has been given to the numerous poli-
tical changes caused by the Treaty of Berlin (1878), in
South Eastern Europe and Armenia; while the articles
Australia, New Zealand, and indeed all Oceania, have
been extensively corrected.
A. M.
Peospeot House, Ventnor, I. W.,
March 1881.
PEEFACE TO FIEST ZDITIOK.
CoKBroEBisQ the improred methods now gtmeranj Hdoptad in
teaching Qeogrojihy, the ever-ezpandiiig dimensioiiB of our ovra
eigandc cmpirti, tlie uameTons additiuns recent!; made to dui
cnowledge m foreign countrieH, and, oe a caneegnence of tiiesfe,
the innreaaing intereHt fdt ty Educated poTBons in every de-
portment of the science, the Author deems i1 saperflDouB to offur
any apology for iraidng the preBent Manual- Am it differa, how-
ever, somewhat widely, lioth in matter and armnpement, from
ail il« predecflBHora, it may he neteaBBry here to describe its
more prominent cluiracteriatics.
The work commencea with a hnef acconnt of the relatjon of
the Earth U< the Solar Byatem, and of tlie latter to the other
worlds which people space.
The form and matenals of the glohe, the conflguration of its
HUT&ce, its dimaie, mineralogy, geology, liotuiy, zoology, and
ethnograjihy, are next diECUBeed ; and thue a foimdation is laid
for the Bubfleuuent details in Physical and Political Geograjiliy.
"" " liTidus' -"■ '-■'■■ ■-■■... - .,
The individual continents and minor diviGiona of the earth's
anrface then pane socoeaBively under review. Each of these i»
viewed from many mdefi, and the refulte presented to the learner
in u cDrre!i]ioudinf; seriea of lirief hut pmntad aectiaiiB.
The preciae order m wldch the different sections should stand
was a subject of maoh careful reflection. While in moat other
works on geography the phyBtcul and political etand 'widely
apart, they are here intentionally combined, and bo made, not
only to reflect mutual light on each othtir, but also to correspond
more cLosely with the manner in which the realities lo wiiich
tfaer refer interpenetrate one another in nature.
Without adverting to the contenta of each of the sections indi-
vidually, the Author can here only notice tiose of them in whieli
he ha£ departed most widelT from the usual routine. The first
departure occura under the heading PoBmoN and Eocs'DABnsB.
It IS aingulor what confused notdons prevail, even among otlier-
wise accurate geogia^ers, regarding the relative position of llie
beat-known places. Tor example, how few ordinary students of
geography could eay, without consulting globe or map, what
other impm-tant places have tlie same latitude and longitude as
London, Edinburgh, or Madrid ! To remedy this, a single sen-
bmoe is oniformly added to this paxagmpk, mentjoning aU the
most imi'ortant places on the globe lying on the some parallel
uid mendion with the capital of the oountry under review, or
witb tlie central point of the latter, should the capital happen to
be sitoated at some dietauce torn it« centre. In addition to the
Y ffeatei fiuniliority with the relative positian of places whicli ie
vi PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION.
thus commtmicated, these brief notices, it is hoped, will be found
serviceable to the student when comparing the cliinates, botany,
and zoology of different countries.
Under the Area of each country, in addition to the informa-
tion usuaUy given, its magnitude is invariably compared with
that of the British Isles collectively, or with one or other of the
kingdoms composing them ; and a similar comparison is drawn
regarding its roPULATiON, which in every instance embodies
the resuUs of the most recent census or estimate.
The artiicles entitled " Political Divisions " have been
thoroughly elaborated, in accordance with the best maps, and a
liew prmciple of arrangement adopted. Instead of adhering to
the prevaihng custom of giving under each province or county
a dry list of cities and towns wholly unconnected by any system
of arrangement, the writer had no nesitation in availing himself
of a principle egnally simple and beautiful with which nature
supplied hmL He refers to that great axiom in geography, that
all the cities and towns on the eartKs surface, whMer ancient
or modern^ stand on the banks of rivers, or on the sea-coast.
This principle is universally vaHd, notwithstanding a few ap-
parent instances to the contrary.
Till very recently, when the canal and the railroad have
to some extent supplied their place, rivers have in all ages
formed the great mghways of commerce. In every land the
banks of rivers present the most fertile portions of tne country,
as the valleys of the Tigris, the Euphrates, the Nile, and the
Jordan ; and have formea the earliest seats of civilisation — as,
for example, Nineveh, Babylon, HeliopoHs, Damascus — the
origin of which dates back to the dawn of history. So close, in
short, is the connection between the rivers of a country and its
towns, that there is no exaggeration in saying that the rivers have
created the towns ; or that, without the rivers, the towns would
have had no existence. In no system of geography founded on
natural principles can this connection oe overlooked. The
political Doundaries of a country will vary from time to time
with the varying fortunes of its rulers, but its rivers will con-
tinue to flow in their wonted channels, and the cities that grace
their banks will continue to pay them their wonted homage.
Eivers are majestic trees that have their roots fixed in the ocean,
and their tops reaching the clouds ; the great cities of the world
hang around their stems ; while the towns and villages cluster
like fruit on their branches.
Hence, though the Manual embraces some other original
features, it was the intimate connection subsisting between
rivers and towns that led to its production, and that forms the
principal basis on which it rests. While the influence of this
•^
PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION. Til
connection can be traced in almost every page, tluee of the
twenty-four Heetiona usually duvoted to eooii country nre eu-
tirelr occupied with its elucidation — viz., those entitled " Prin-
eipel BJTer-Basins," " Political Divisions," and " Table of Rivera
and Towns." The first of theae shows the dimensions of all the
laiger river-basins, and indicates at a glance how niaiiy provinces
or counties theymnbtace either wholly orinpart. In the second
it necessarily occupies a somewhat snbordinate place ; for not
only must the towns with their population be placed in the
foreground — the name of the river being placed after them
witEn parentheses — but the boundaries of the provinces con-
tinualiy iutemipt tie continuity of tho rivers. The capital of ft
province is, moreover, placed iii'st, even though itahould not stand
nearest to the river's mouth ; and, finally, only the larger towns
ia each province have the rivers on which they stand indicated
lest the learner should be overburdened with their multiplicity.
AH the towns, however, whose population ranges between 50W>.
and 10,000 are immediately subjomed, hut in a snialler type, to
indicate that they may be omitted in a firatpernsal. The only
departure from this ia in the cose of the United Kingdom, in
treating of which it was considered necessary to embrace towns
of a much smaller population.
But the third ot these pan^^phs, or those denominated
" Tables of Eivers and Towns," are those to which the Author
would direct most special attention, as presenting at once the
most original portion of his Manual, and the fullest exhibition
of his peculiar method. Animmeuse amount of time and labour
has been expended on these tables ; but, judging from experience,
the Author is convinced that their importance to the student,
and the labour and time they will save to the teacher, fully
justified the sacrifice ; for he is aware that many of the most
successful teachers of geography ore in thedaily habit of drilling
their classes more or less in accordance with the method here so
fully developed, but having no reliable guide to direct them,
each of them is obliged to draw out a scheme for himself, from
euch materials as he may have at command.
Having said so much on the " River System," properly no
called, space will not allow an eqnally minute description of tho
other paragraphs. Sul£ce it to say, that similar care and patience
hare been bestowed on all of them. Thc Modhtais-K4Kge3
and the Lakes are more systematically arranged, and their
connection with the river-basiQfl more closely eihibited, than in
any other existing Geography.
llie sections describmg the Cliuate, Geologt, Mihgsal!*,
Botany, and Zooloot of the different countries, have been
drawn up with the greatest core, and from the most recent and
* 1
iiz'.v*.'!: I** ~j
'aurr-iiuni^.L ii'-a i:.\'> i—zi •ii-:i:ir«u i.v "lir-tii. tav. ?w^'n.Ti«
laniinui uiiiniius:. i-itii ■: jn^-mn.-iiT. .ill -imsciiii if "ais
.L "jiWH ^ 117 wi" ue«.r:i»r*.u ji.l ts- y^((nv7i 0 rjitr" nrnpuoftn
-Jiii ■iii:r* I m.urw j^nrtti "aul ;vi.«m Ub iii-inniOT if p»i^
i'*!»T'."^niim» if "Hilt JLm" uiu y.;'*^ 7iiniL. iH.ir. lif^^^utfriaa
Zlr^itinL^ir-?. r.iramisr:!*. IViOiun.i.r.xr'-s iizTt^'xr^ nm. Zbrriara,
T'.LTti ,.:nn]'in.i:'tdiii> miL Jir^,»iri 7'i>«.-T^uns- "f bit ifiM
Tirj:«T» iiLL::i& n tut ^rtiiiimtiini a y-ul:i iiu mrec tsssbe: «■»-
IiTUL-iiiA. trt iwoiRiairuii:'" iiur* iimu'rm:& iiu*i » ansr-inttzy an
VTTiif :i lit Zcjiuio. Iziji^ Li»L 1*1 ;iu«tr "jilt^ if "sxii
*ic ?2 : yrmi-T: : y :•: ^^vittimiu-. il«ji»4* j* a.'T2aE-:'-y a
i:iiw*cT :- IttiT Ii:.iriiSL 1 tt i.. :.::u::Iii« unTirru^
.'<;«<
The Author ciimDi c.;i.:l~ir ilt«- i-risitrrijr::^.* '^rfiihiat ei-
prensin^ Ms deep ob!irai:;r^ i: iij."e»r vilzei frl=£Di5 who sO
j^enerously assist^ him in his s>elf-ii::Ti.i=eI i&si. His lies: ihanks
are due to the Rev. M. M&:kar. Foriv;?*. f;r iis &id in connec-
tion Tilth the tojio^naphical sc-crlcna. tie minuieneas and accu-
racy of which are in a gircat measure tLr rerft of his unwearied
labours : and to A. Keith Johnston. Esq.. LL.D.. Her Majesty's
(geographer for Scotland, for the many valuaLle items of recent
information with which he favoured the Author during the com-
l)08iti()n of his l^lanual, and for his great kindness in volunteer-
ing the final revision of the proof-sheets. Above all, I have the
Jiiost unfeigned pleasure in expressing my deepest obligations
to another (who for the present must be nameless), without
whoso constant companionship and unwearied assistance this
^f anual could never have attained that degree of minute accu-
racy which, I believe, every page will be found to exhibit.
CONTENTS.
DETINITIOXa, . . i .
Mathematical GEoaRAPHT,
Physical Geoorapht, .
Materials, Density, and Attractive Power
Earth, ....
Configuration op the Surface, .
The Ocean, ....
The Atmosphere, .
v^LIMATE, • . ■ •
Mineralogy, ....
Geology, ....
Botany, ....
Zoology, ....
Ethnography,
Political Geography, . . ♦
OF the
PAGE
1
2
16
16
17
21
26
32
36
38
52
65
58
63
EUROPE,
The British Empire,
General View of the British Isles,
England and Wales, .
Scotland,
Ireland, ....
63
93
95
113
144
162
<!»■<>«<» tmvMt^
-. uk A':iaMMi-IKu,W4i«:iL> Eani?.
tUIWHa 'Ik 'SUIUtll'i,.
>tN)U4 ■^^tl^J^^HI'^»«>^^^.
libit.. |I|II>1>UI
CONTI
SNTS.
XI
SiBEBIA- AND CENTRAL ASIA,
428
Japan,
433
AFRICA, ....
437
TriE Egyptian Empire,
450
Abyssinia,
458
Barbart States,
462
Sahara, or Great Desert,
467
Senegambia, .
469
SOUUAN, OR NIGRITIA,
472
Guinea,
476
Country op the Hottentots,
482
South Africa,
484
South Central Africa, .
490
East Africa,
495
Region op the Great Lakks,
498
NORTH AMERICA,
•
502
British North America, .
516
Dominion of Canada,
518
Eastern Provinces, .
518
British Columbia and Vancouver Island.
526
North- West Territory,
• • • •
529
Manitoba and Labrador,
• « • •
530
Greenland, or Danish America,
531
The United States,
• • • •
532
Mexico,
• • • •
550
Central America, .
• ' • • »
557
West Indies and Bermudas,
•
• • •
561
SOUTH AMERICA,
• • • •
567
Colombia (U.S. of Colombia,
ECQADOR, AND VENEZUELA),
575
Guiana,
• • ■ •
579
Brazil,
• • • m
680
X ERU, . • • •
• • • •
685
XU CONTENTS.
Bolivia, .......
5«8
\^nIL£^ ■•••*«
591
Patagoma and Tierra del Fuego,
595
Argentine Confederation, or La Plata,
595
Paraguay and Uruguay, ....
598
OCEANIA,
602
Australasia, .....
602
Australia, ......
603
Tasbcania, ......
614
New Zealand, ......
615
Papua, or New Guinea, etc..
620
Malaysia, .......
622
Micronesia, .......
627
Polynesia, or South Sea Islands,
629
ANTARCTICA,
631
Index, ••.••••,
633
ILLUSTRATIONS.
The Circle and Sphere,
Parallels and Meridians,
Zones and Circles,
The Tides,
Attractive Energy op the Earth,
Geological Succession of Life,
10
12
14
15
17
51
Geogkapht ls that science whick has for its object the descrip-
tion of the surface of the Earth, or of that member of the Sokr
Systeitt which forma the abode of Jlan.
Though in regard to practical importance it occupies thefore-
moBt place amoog the physical HcienceH, it has been the lost to
receive the attention which is due to it. It consists of two
principal blanches — viz., Ancient Get^raphy, which embraces
the lengthened period intervening between tie earliest dawn of
history and the fall of the Roman Empire ; and Modem Geo-
^aphy, which extends from that event to the present time.
The latter is subdivided into four departments — viz., Mathe-
matical, Physical, Political, and Historical.
Mi^himaiieaZ Geo^raphi/ tnati of the Earth in its relations to other
cdostial bodies ; of its motiooa, form, and magnitude ; and of the
troB position pf piaces oa its surface.
Phytiixil Orography treats of the configuration of tba Earth's crust ;
the materials of which it is composed ; 3ia soil and climate that pre-
vail at different parts of the surface ; and the effect of the latter on
ita living inhabitonts — plants, animals, and man.
FoUtKol Oeography — the only branch of the science which re.
reived adequate attention in the schools of this conntry till of late
years — treats of the artificial or political divisions of the sarface into
empires and states ; their extent, population, and material icsoarcea ;
their government, people, religion, language, and eiviUsation.
Historical Oeography endeavours to establish when and by whom
the different countries were first peopled ; the political changes whicli
they have snhseqnently undet^ona; and especially the progress of
geographical discovery in modem times.
Vba first and second of these branches require separate considera-
tion ; the third and fourth will be treated of in connection with the
individual ct
PART I.
MATHEMATICAL GEOaRAPHY.
.1. Position op the Earth and its Relation to other
Worlds. — The earth on which we live is not to be regarded as
an isolated, independent body, having no relations to other
worlds ; but as one of the members of a large family of similar
bodies collectively called the Solar System, all the parts of
which are united in one beautiful and harmonious whole by
the mysterious power of gravitation.
The Solar System. — This system is so named from the fact that
the sun (Lat. sol) is by far the largest body belonging to it — that he
is placed in the centre, all the other members of the system revolving
around him, either directly or indirectly — and especially to distin-
guish it from the numberless other systems that are located around
it in universal space, each of which has probably its own sun or star
as the immediate centre of its light, heat, and gravitating power. So
far as presently known, the solar system consists of 174 distinct
bodies — viz., the sun ; 9 large planets revolving around him in nearly
circular orbits ; 147 planetoids, or smaller planets, between the
orbits of Mars and Jupiter, supposed by some to be the fragments
of a large disrupted planet ; 18 satellites or moons, one of which
belongs to the earth, and aXL the others to the four most distant
planets ; besides a host of comets, which move in extremely elliptical
orbits, and myriads of meteorites. Only a very few of this large
number were known to the ancients — viz., the Sun, Earth, Moon,
Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter, Satmii, and a few of the more
remarkable comets. All the remainder have been discovered since
the invention of the telescope by Gkdileo in the beginning of the
seventeenth century. The centre of this wonderful piece of mechan-
ism is occupied by the sun, a huge mass of opaque matter, 1,245,000
times the size of the earth, but surrounded by aluminous atmosphere.
Though stationary in relation to the other members of the sjrstem,
he is m reality advancing through space — carrying in his titdn his
numerous retinue of phmets, sateUites, comets — ^with a velocity of
17,680 miles per hour. This velocity, however inconceivable, is
exceeded nearly fourfold by that of the earth in her annual circuit
round the sun. The planets move around the sun in elliptical, but
nearly circular, orbits, and in the same general direction, though at
various distances, veloeities, and periods of revolution, as shown in
the following tables (p. 6, 7). The satellites perform similar elliptic
IIATIIEIIATICAL UliOCKAPHY. 3
cal otbita round th«ir primariPS ; while the paths <j! the tomcts are
highly ocoentric, eouaistrng fur tlie moat part of extremely elongnteil
eUxpsea.
OftMM oT EllipUciI UoUon. — This cHiptical motion is the result
of the compositiun of two forces acting on the planet simultaneously,
but ia difTeient ilirections. The first of these is called the etntri/ugal
or iangerUial force, and is that which the planet received troia the
hand of the Creator when originallj lauuched into space. TMb
force, ^ anrestraiiifd by any opposing one, would carry lie planet
I whoDy away from the eun, and project it into the depths of inJinite
L OTafiH. But it is opposed or counteracted by the ixatriptUd force, a
B^rce always acting at right angles to it, and directed towu'ds the
I anil, or rather towards the centre of gravity of the entire system — a
} point situated within that body, though at a great distance from it£
centre. Thn latter force, again, if acting alone, would oause tlie
planet to move towards the sun in a straight line, and with continu-
tdly accelerated speciL But as both forces are incessantly operating,
the plaaet must, in giving obedience to each of them, describe &
cnrviliiiear path. The cuiTe so described will, in every case, he one
of the conic secliona — that is to say, it will be one or other of the
various curves obtained by cutting a cone in all the possible direc-
tions. It will depend, however, on the rarticnlat circumstaaces of
the case — viz., direction, distance, and velocity- — which of the curves
■hall be described — i.e., whether a circle, an ellipse, a parabola, or
an hyperbola. Thus, Uie orbit will lie a circle, when the square ol'
the tangential velocity is equal to the diameter of the circle multiplied
by the centripetal velocity ; it will be an ell^iae when the former
product is greater than the latter; aparaiola, when the former pro-
duct is eiactly twice as great as the latter ; an hyperbola, when more
than twice as great ; and, in every case, the angiilar velocity of the
raditw-oerfor mast be inversely proportional to the square of the
mutoal itotance of the two bodies.
The "Cause of Elliptical Motion," aa above desuribeil, cannot be easily
cOQtprehsDded without some inquiry into the cauae of all motion, or, In
oCbto' words, without an inquiry into the relation subsisting between the
Creator and the material univerae. That relation, though no doubt pro-
foundly mystaiioue, is not one regarding which wo are left wholly in the
(lark ; for what human pbiloaophy, left ti> its own unaided resources,
roiriit never succeed in diiamenag, the-Creator has been plesiad to n-
veal. Since the auuouucement of the law of universal gravitation,
physical science has made unparaUeleil progress in all directiooa, yet to
this day the most incoherent theories regiuding the cause of motion,
and the ulticaate source of the mighty energies everywhere observable in
IhB material world, have been propounded. Many pbilOHopliara appear
to i«gard the attractive power of gravitation as a mere propeiiy of mat-
tar. It is either, they maintain, a property e^entlal to the verii scij/enee
of natter, or which, thoi^li not originally belonging to matter, has been
Dammnnicated to it by the Ci«ator, and which isnow bo indelibly stamped
thereon that it may be said to be inherent in it, so as to form part and
parcel of Its being. And not only, it la argued, does thia bold good of
gravitation itself (as eiiatiug betveen the orbs of space), but atsg of &U
4 MATHEMATICAL GEOGRAPHY.
its varieties and modifications, as magnetic attraction, chemical affinity,
electric attraction, cohesion, and adhesion — all are mere properties of
matter, a conclusion beyond which it would be in vain to push our re-
searches. Now, if this result is to be accepted, all the so-called laws of
nature are merely the necessary and inevitaole consequences of these un-
changing and unchangeable properties of matter. According to this view it
follows, that the physical universe, though abandoned by its Maker — ^whose
sustaining hand, indeed, is no longer required — will not only continue in
existence, but will for ever carry on, without interruption or dmiinution, its
present multiform activities. In our opinion, no view could possibly be
more perverse, however eminent in science some of its propounders. It
wholly fails in satisfying the cravings of every earnest inquirer who searches
for truth as for hidden treasure. We cannot suppose it possible that the
Creator should abandon the universe to the play of its own activities.
He cannot take up the position of a mere spectator, and contemplate
from a distance the mighty machine He has set in motion. To do this
would be to insure its instant destruction. For He not only created the
worlds by His fiat, but " in Him all thmgs consist," and He "upholdeth
all things by the word of His power." According to these divine utter-
ances, the forces that are at work in nature are not inherent in matter, but
in that Almighty Being who not only summoned matter into existence,
but who continues to sustain it in being and in the possession of aU its
properties. In short, we arrive at the grand and fundamental principle,
tfuit material objects can never become the uUimaie fountains of any species of
potoer, and that miiid is the true source of all power and of all motion.
It will greatly aid us in forming a right conception of the relation
subsisting between the Divine Mind and the universe, if we carefully
consider the relation that subsists between the human mind and body.
This relation is easily discovered, and is profoundly instructive. It
differs greatly from the relation in which the mind stands to objects
external to the body. Over these the mind has no immediate control :
they cannot hear any voice nor obey any command. Even the members
of our own bodies give no obedience to commands audibly expressed,
unless such commands are accompanied by acts of volition; but no sooner
does the mind toill that the hana or the foot shall perform any motion,
than it is responded to by an act of ii^stant obedience. So brief, indeed.
Is the interval between the mental volition and the resulting motion, that
human science cannot measure it. The will, however, has no such con-
trol over objects foreign to the body — acts of volition have no effect upon
these. The direct power of the mind is limited, in every case, to the or-
ganised body which it animates. Now, there must be a close analogy
between this relation of the mind and body of man and the relation sub-
sisting between the Divine Mind and the physical universe, for *' God
created man in His own image, after His likeness." This inspired utter-
ance, like a pure and perfect crystal, has many sides ; and the side
nearest our present point of view undoubtedly teaches, that the Almighty
exercises over the material universe a control closely analogous to that
which the human mind exercises over its own corporeal organism. Anal-
ogy, however, is not identity, and the material universe is not an
organised body which the Divine Mind animates. He is not ''the soul
of the universe," and still less is He that impersonal abstraction about
which the Pantheist dreams, but a gracious and loving Father, who ever
feels the deepest interest in the wellbeing of His children. Analogy is
not identity, but even analogy is of importance where the aids are so
£bw, and where the lights bum so dimly. And that there is an analogy
MiTHEilATICAL GEOGRAPHY. D
li lieyond all doubt ; for, on tho one liand, tlie iiiiiid of man eiereises it
snpremB control over the membara of hia own body; while on the other,
the Divine Being boa ever contmned from the morning of creation to
maint^n, br the allent fortb^iuttiTigs of His will, the most absolute con-
trol over all Hid creatures. Sun and moon and stars, tbeniuds and
WBTo and raging stonoa — all are Hia Eervants, and aU are obedient to
' Hii wilL The laws of nature— general) jregardEd as so mysterions, and
R to wbich aome would assign a position due to the Lavgirer alone — find
V hen tbeic true explanation : they are simply a conveaient name for the
p inoBBsant volitioua of an nncbangeablB God. He can suspend these laws
I st pleasure, and He has, in fact, suspended tbeni once and asntin. But
from the point of \iew from which we are conleinplatinK the Creator and
fTis works, there is no mora of mystery in tbe SD-caUad miraclB than in
the T^ular course of nature.
ProgreBi oT DlBCorery. — The trne ajstem of the naiverse was not
nnilerstood till near the middle of the eisteenth centnry, when the
in Prussia, 1473) began the
g that the sun is the centre
ofonr system; thai the planets moTearoand him in circular orbits;
and that tbe dailj motion of the heavenly bodies is only apparent,
and canaed by tbe rotatioo of tbe earth on its axis. Several pheno-
mena, however, icmaiueil inexplicable ander this theory, such as the
chiULge of planetary velocity in different parte of their orbits, and
the coDBaiiueQt alteration of their apparent magnitudes. — appear-
aneea inconsistent with tbe assumMion of tbeir moving in perfectly
circular orbits. A century after Copernioaa, the immortal Kepler
appeared (born at Weil, in Wurtembeig, in 1571), and devoted his
life to the Hiplicntioa of these difficulties. The result was tbe three
fiunooa "laws" which will ever retnin his name, and which may bo
ranked among the most brilliant discoveries ever made in science.
They are as follow:—
1. The orbits of the planets are fllipm, which have all a common
focos, and in this focua the sun is situated.
2. If aline be drawn connecting any planet with the centre of the sun.
that line — called the radiiu-vtelar — will describe equal areas in equ^l
times, in whatever port of the orbit the planet may be moving.
3. Tbe ai^narcs of the times of revolution of acy two planefs are to
each other m tbe same proportion as the cubes of their mean distances
fram lite sun.
Finally, the world.ren owned Uewton (bom at "Woidstlioriie iu
Lincolnshire, in 1613) placed the keystone in the might}' arch ei-ected
by Ms predecessors, by discovering the law of uuiveraal gravitation,
and thus com]itctta^ tbe theoretic view of tbe planetary Bystem.
"Hie satellites of Jnpiter were discovered by Galileo in the beginning
of tbe aeventeentli century; those of Saturn, by Enygbeas and
Cnsaini, in tbe latter half of that century; Urllnus, by Herscbel,
in 1781 ; Neptune, by Adams and Leverrier simultaneoualy, m 1816 ;
Vulcan, hy Lescarbault, » French physician, in 186B; snrl all tbe
planetoids during the present century. Every year, indeed, is addinR
new members to the aystem, as inatmments are improvsl and tliJe
nnmbsr of abservets multiplied.
6
MATHEMATICAL GEOGRAPUY.
Astronomical Tables. — ^The following tables,— originally construct-
ed by Professor C. Piazzi Smyth, Astronomer -Hoyal for Scotland,
and subsequently revised by him and brought down to the present
state of astronomical science, — ^give in detail all the most import-
ant of the numerous interesting facts hitherto ascertained regarding
the different members of the solar system. On comparing these
tables with those published in the first edition of this work, it will
be seen that astronomers have not been idle during the last ton
years — that numerous corrections and rectifications have been made
in almost every column ; and that, in particular, the great physical
problem of the age — the true mean distance of the sun from the
earth — ^has made rapid progress towards a satisfactory solution.
This problem is fully discussed in the author's recently-published
work, * Facts and Dates* (Edinburgh, Blackwood & Sons), and need
not be repeated here. That distance, it may now be confidently
assumed, is 92,093,000 miles ; for that is at once the grand mean of
all recent researches, as also the number clearly indicated by that
marvel of architecture, the Great Pyramid of Jeezeh, now shown to
have been erected B.C. 2170. In accordance with the third law of
Kepler, the earth's distance from the sun determines the distances
of all the other planets, the proper numbers for which have been
drawn up by the indefatigable W. Petrie, civil engineer, whose la-
bours have had no small share in solving the great problem referred
to: —
THE SOLAR SYSTEM.
Names and Order
of the
Mean Distance
from the Sun
Periodic
Time of
Revolution
Velocity
in orbit
Time of
Rotation on
•
Is
.Plauets.
. in Miles.*
lumean
Solar Days.
per hour
biMUes.
Axis in
Solar Days.
Days, ho. m.
Sun
17,583
25 7 48
Vulcan
13,082,000
19.70
174,000
Mercuiy
35,649,000
87.97
105,330
10 5
6.656
0
Venus
66,614,000
224.70
77,050
28 21
1.932
0
Earth
92,093,000
365.25
65,533
1 0 0
1.000
1
Mars
140,322,000
686.98
63,090
1 0 37
.436
0
Minor >
planets j
269,000,000
1,684.74
39,882
.130
0
Jupiter
479,141,098
4,332.62
28,744
9 55
.036
4
Saturn
878,461,000
10,759.30
21,221
10 29
.011
8
Uranus
1,766,566,000
30,686.82
14,963
9 30
.003
4
Neptune
2,766,133,000
60,126.71
11,958
.001
1
* Profesor Bode, of Berlin, in 1778 pointed out the following remarkable em«
pirical law, relative to the distances of the planets from the sun and from each
other : ** The distance between the orbits of any two planets is nearly twice as
great as that between the orbits of the next two nearer the sun." Thus suppose
the distance of Mercury from the Sun to be represented by 4 ; then, Venus will
be 4 -t- 3, or 7 such distances ; the Earth 4 -f twice 3, or 10 such distances, dec
MATIIESIATICAI
^.
li.
'■Sir-
S'ri
jii-
nil
1
^aS
llll
So.
S9°3S0
8SI,B84
1,»U,130.COT
314,TM,«I
.»
ST.ao
VulUn
Tser
TMt
B,9sa
s.m
T.BIO
7,810
-SSI
t;8m
33 27 24
3Un
4i»S0
.»e
Mloor >
pltorti/
mo"
Jopltet
BS,1 1
Ba,«o
Bitnni
I1.9M
7111. B9a
90.0:1
38 48 0
Cnoni
UM
n 0 0
"Ijr'
sal 820!
iiM
.024
,013
.63
.17
I
2. Helation op the Solak System to the Univehse. —
The Solar System, or the bud witli ins nccompanyitig train of
planets, BBtellites, and comets, constitutes but a small pordon
of the material universe. When we aurvej the heavens at
night, we behold a multitude of luniinons objects called stars ;
and, by the iwaiBtance of a good telescope, myriadfl more liecome
risible. Their apparent magnitudes are very different, and
this difference has been made the basis of classiB cation in form-
ing some estimate of their number. Those visible to the naked
eye are divided into six classes : the brightest stars are said to
be of the first magnitude; those of an inferior ilegree of bright-
ness, of the second magnitude ; and bo on, down to the sixth,
which comprises the smallest stars visible to the naked eye in
the clearest moonless night. The telescope vastly extends the
power of vision, and astronomers are familiar with staw of
the sixteenth degree of magnitude ; and there is no reason to
suppose that this is the Hiait to the progression, as every in-
crease in the dimensions and power of the instroment brinos
into view myriads of stars that were invisible before.
Nnmtwr of Uu Stan.— Ths total trnmber of sUrs visible to thu
naked eve in the most fnvoared localities is about SOOO, It is only
at the equator, however, that so large a number can be seen ; fnr
there only the spectator hai the opportnnity of seeing the wholo
heavens, withoat altering his position. Shoiud he take np his posi-
titrn at cither of the poles, no more than half the stsny flrmometit
can ever pass in review before him ; while at all intermedinte posi-
tions, the number of stars visible in any one night will depenil on
the latitude of the place. ArgeUnder of Bonn hai ctsMzlied the
* r^iUu tiiF uiseic of tA^io.
8 MATHEMATICAL GEOGBAPHY.
number of stars visible to the naked eye as follows : Stars of the
first magnitude, 20 ; second magnitude, 65 ; third magnitude, 190 ;
fourth magnitude, 425; fifth magnitude, 1100; sixth magnitude,
8200. Total number visible at equator, 5000. It thus appears
that each inferior class is about tnree times as numerous as the
one preceding it. The whole number of stars already registered,
down to the seventh magnitude, is about 18,000; and some astrono*
mers have estimated the total number of stars visible by means
of the best telescopes, down to the sixteenth degree of magnitude, at
500,000,000,000 ! On the other hand, such is the extreme tenuity
of matter that 5,000,000,000 molecules placed side by side do not
occupy more than one lineal inch, while the number of molecules
in a solid inch is the cube of that number I *
Distance of the Siaxs. — ^The distance of the fixed stars from our
sun is as inconceivable as their number ; but, until recently, there
were no data from which any probable calculation could be made.
In the year 1838, however, the parallax (or angle subtended by the
diameter of the earth's orbit, as seen from a star) was measured in
the case of three of them. The parallax of a Centauri was ascer-
tained by Professor Henderson of Edinburgh to be 0''.9128, or nearly
one second; that of 61 Cygni, by Professor Bessel of Konigsberg,
who found it to be 0''.3483 ; and that of a Lyrce, by Otto Struve,
who found it to be about 0".25, or a quarter of a second. The major
diameter of the earth's orbit being about 185,000,000 of miles, a
parallax of one second will give a distance of 20,000,000,000,000
(twenty billions) of miles, which is probably the distance from our
sun of the nearest fixed star ; — ^a distance so great that light, which
travels at the rate of 185,000 miles per second, would require 34
years to traverse it. The distance of the star 61 Cygni, its parallax
Deing only i of a second, will be three times this number ; and of
a Lyras, whose parallax is } of a second, will be four times twenty
billions ! The distance of twelve fixed stars is now approximately
determined.
Magnitude of the Stars. — In the present state of astronomical
science, the magnitude of even the nearest of the fixed stars cannot
be given with any degree of accuracy. It is certain, however, that,
in general, they are greatly larger than our sun ; for were the sun
to be removed from his present position, where he has an apparent
diameter of 32^ 3", and made to occupy the place of a Centauri,
which is regarded as the nearest of the fixed stars, his diameter
would be reduced to 0\0093, or less than the hundredth part of a
second. Here he would fail to be seen by the naked eye, and no
telescope ever invented could give us any idea of his size. If, on
the other hand, a Centauri were removed from his actual position,
and made to occupy the place of our sun, it is calculated that the
light which he emits would be 2^ times greater than that of the sun ;
and hence, it is argued, his magnitude must be correspondingly
greater. The intrinsic 'splendour of Sirius is 63 times greater than
that of a Centauri, and 192 times greater than that of the sun ; and
hence it is supposed the magnitude of Sirius is 2688 times greater
than that of our luminary. Considerable uncertainty, however,
* 'The New Chemistry,' by J. P. Cooke, 1874, p. 34.
•
MATHEMATICAL CEOCRAPHV.
nttachea to this mode of eatknating the maguitiiile of tlioBe ilietnut
Lodies. The light of the eun ia so immensely saperior in iitten^itj
to thnt of any star that it is impractieablo to obtain any dirsi^t
comparison between them, and it la only by usinc the moon ea KB
intermsdiats term of comparisoo that any appioximation to occu'
Tacy can be mads. Wollaston, in 1829, rouuii the proportion of the
sntfs light to that of the full moon to be aa 801,072 to 1 ; while ,
the light of the full moon exceeds that of o CetttaaH in the propor-
tion of S7,40S to 1. Comhining these resalts, he Dalculated the
light of the Bun as exceeding that of the star 21,956,000,000 times.
Hence, from the parallax above assigned to the alar, it is eaay to
conclude that its intrinsie splendour is 2.3247 times that of the auu.
Proper Hotlou of the Son aod Stars. — The ao-called "hjied
stois " are, in reality, all in motion : and no fixoi point — no ohject
absolutely at rest — is to be met with in the whole uniTcrae. The
power of gravitation, wliich binds together the numerous memhers
of the solar system, appears to he equally operative among the most
distant objects in space. The relative distances of the hzed stars,
and even the conGguration of the constellations, are imperceptibly
altering. Of all the bright stara observed by the ancients, not one
has Itept ita place unchangEd. In the case of Aretiirus, for example,
of n Cassiopeite, and of a double star in Oi/gnw, this chaoge of posi-
tioE baa, in 2000 years, amounted to ^, SJ, and 8 moon's diameters,
Teapectively. While some vary only the twentieth part of a secoai)
linnnully, others vary 7.7 seconds, — showing a ratio in their proper
motions of 1 : 151. The Southern Cross will not always shine iu
the heavens in its present form, for the four atars of which it con-
eiats are moving in different directions. Even our own sun, go lonj;
regarded as stationary in the centra of the aystem, ia found to be in
rapid motion through space, and daily traversing a distance of
432,000 miles, — a apace exceeding his own radius. Sir W. Herschel
arrived at the conclaaion, three quarters of a century ago, that hu
was moving in the direction of A ileTciilis,—a point in right ascen-
sion 280° 34', and north polar distance 63* 43', for the year 1790.
Otto Strove, from a very elaborate discussion of the proper motion
of 3B2 stars, detenninad the point, for 1850, to ha in right ascension
281" 32' ; declination 37° 33'. It will probably, however, be a long
time yet before astronomers are in a position to detemiiue whether
this motion of our system through spaco is in a right line or curvi-
linear j and, if the letter, what that point ia aronud which it is re-
volving. Dr Madlei of Dorpat haa, indeed, hazarded the conjectaro
that our sun is only one of the millions of stars of the well-known
lilky-Way, which consistB of a mighW ring, or wheel of stars,
preatly crowded together at the oircumference, bat comparatively
few towards the centre. The central group of thia grand ayatom.
[ which eamposeB om; finnainent, is, ha thinks, the FleiaileB, which
revolves round Alcyme, the brightest orb of that beautiful couatel-
iBtion. The distance of our sun from that centre of force he calcu-
lates at 31,500,000 times the distance of the earth from the sun,— n
distance so great that light could not traverse it in less tluin 600
yeaa, and reiiuiring 18,200,000 years for our sun to com^lel* qbb
10 MATHEMATICAL GEOGRAPHY.
revolution ! But however lofty such conceptions of genius may bo,
they are not, as yet, to be regarded as established scientific truths.
3. Form, Size, and Motions op the Earth. — Having thus
traced the relation of the earth to surrounding worlds, we now
return to examine itself more minutely. Its /orm is that which
a perfect sphere* of fluid consistency would assume, were it made
to rotate around its axis with the same rapidity as the earth
does. Such a form is called an oblate-sphisroidyf — ^that is, a
sphere somewhat flattened or compressed at the poles, like an
orange. The larger or equatorial diameter exceeds the polar
<liameter by 26 miles — ^the former being 7925, and the latter
7899 nules. In round numbers, the diameter may be stated at
8000 miles ; the radius, or semi-diameter, at 4000 ; the circum-
ference at 25,000 ; the area, or superficial content, at 197,310,000
sq. m. ; the volume, or solid content, at 260,613,000,000 cubic
miles ; and the weight at 6000 trillions of tons. J
Motions of the Earth. — The earth has three motions : first, that
referred to above, in accompanying the snn through space {see p. 2) ;
second, an annual or orhitual motion round the sun, which it per-
* Among the numerous proofs of the spherical form of the earth, the followinj;
may be mentioned : —
1. A much greater extent of the earth's surface is visible from the top of a
mountain than from a plain near the level of the sea.
2. As the mariner nears the land, he first sees the tops of the mountains ; and
on approaching nearer, the lower grounds become visible.
3. In cutting for a canal, it is found that allowance must be made for a dip of
about 8 inches per mile. In order to keep the water at a uniform level.
4. In travelling to any considerable distance, either north or south, new stars
come to view in the direction in which the traveller is advancing, while others
disappear in the direction from which he is receding.
ft. Many navigators, who have sailed constantly in one direction, whether due
east or due west, have returned to the jwrt from which they set out.
6. The shadow which the earth casts on the moon, during an eclipse, is always
circular.
7. All the other members of the solar system are spherical
f A prolate spheroid, on the contrary, is a sphere somewhat elongated in the
direction of its poles, forming a body shaped like a lemon.
X IjTOS in mathematics may be reminded of the following facts :—
1. The circumference of a circle, or sphere, whose diameter is 1, is = 3.1416,
or S} nfearly. Hence, to find the circumference of any other circle, or sphere,
multiply its diameter by 8^.
D 2. The area of a circle is found by multi«
plying its radius by half its circumference.
Th'is the area of the circle ^ D is equal
C,. ] to the area of the triangle A B C^ the
base of wliich, AB,iB = the circumference
rad.x cira
B of the circle. More briefly, area = 5 —
8
jy 3. The area of a sphere is equal to the convex area of the
circumscribing cylinder^A BCD; and its solid content, S, is equal
to { of the solid content of the circumscribing cylinder. Or,
Area = i>2 x 3.1416; 5 = ?^^l-|_H2*; Weight ^10" X
S weight of Great Pyramid = 10'*' x 6,000,000 tons.
I
I
M A THEMATIC A r. GBUGRAPIFY. 11
fui'ina in 3'>3.2f>fl moen sdIbt dayn ; nnd tlte thii'J, culled its iliunmt
motion, ronnd its owa niis, in 1 clny, or 24 solar hours.* The nxis
is an imaginaiT line passing throagi tlie earth's centre, and inclined
to the plana of its orbit at an angla of 66° 32'. This imaginary line
remains nlwHys parallel to itself ; or, what is the same thing its ex-
tremities, irbicli are called its poles, always point In the Eame fixed
stara, and present tbemsetTes alternately to the sun, — thus giving
rise to the variety of the seasons, as the diurnal motion, wliich is
l¥om vest to east, causes the alternations of day and niglU, and of
the riaing, southing, and setting of the heavenly bodies. If the axin
ua which the earth performs her daily rotation ware eKaotiy perpen-
ilicular to the plana of her patli ronnd the sun, one constant climate
Wonld characterise the some parallel of latitude at all times of the
year, and all the benefits which resalt to maiUcind from the regu-
lar lucoession of the seasons would have been wanting ; hnt by the
simple arrangement of the aiia being inclined 234° ffom the perpen-
dicolor, the All-Wise Creator has made perpetual provision for the
regular recurrence of summer and winter, of aeed- time and harvest.
4. MathemSlTICAL Divisons op the Eailth. — In order to
describe with precision the position of pinces on the earth's
snrface, end the effects that result from ita orbitual and dinmnl
motioni, certain imarinaiy lines are drawn round it, which are
called great circles when they divide it into two eqnal hemi-
Hpheres, and small circles when they divide it nneqiiaUy.
The Great Oirclea are tha Equator, Horizon, Meridians,
Ecliptic, and tlie two Colures.
The E(piator, a large circle, equidistant (rora the poles, divides
the earth into a Northern and a Southern Hemisphere. The lati-
tude of places is measured /rom it, north and south; and their longi-
tude, on it, east and west.
The Hoiliaii separates the visible half of the celestial concave
/rom the half that is invisible, and is either nUioiiai or sensHle,
The rational, or true horizon, by which the risina and setting of
all the heavenly bodies are determined, is an imaginary plane
passing tliroogh the centre of the earth, and prolonKed in imagina-
tion till it attains the region of the stars. Parallel to it, and co-
extensive with it, is the sensible horizon, whose plane is a tangent to
the surfaee at the point on which the spectator is placed. These t«'o
5 lanes, although se[>arated throughout their whole extent by a semi-
iameter of the earth, will yet, on sccount of the vest distance at
which that interval is seen, he confounded together, and appear as one
line in the heavens. As applied to the earth, however, the sensible or
apparent horison is the small circle which terminates oar view of
the surface, where earth and sky appear to meet It enlarges or
contracts, according as the spectators eye is elevated or depressed :
thus, if the eye be elevated 6 feet above the sea, the ulrcular expense
nf water visible to it will be 3 miles in diameter. The Oaiiuiial
Foluta of the horizon are north, south, east, and west ; the Zenith is
the upper pole of onr horizon, and the KoiUr the lower pole.
12 HATHEUATICM.
Ths Heildl&ns, or lines of longitude, are gnat circles passin)!
through the polea, and cQtting the equ&tor at nght angles. Each of
them divides the earth into two hemiapheros which, in respect to
each other, may be termed east and west. There are- 12 meridians
commonly drawn on globes, each 15° apart, eqnal to a difference in
^■_. ...... 1 ..._ __•! ,a !j.-_^_ (.nmspg of the world, each 10°
apart, corresponding to a dif-
ference itt time of 40 minutes.
Bat every place is supposed
to hsTO A meridiaa passing
through it ; and when the
sun comes to that meridian, it
is noon or mid-day at that
place. The lonsltude of a
place is its distance east or
west from the first meridiaa,
or that one from which we
Rgres to count This has varied
with different nations : thus
the French reckon from Paris ;
the Spaniards, from Cadiz ; and
the English, from Greenwich.
Bat there is one meridan which
has a claim above all others to
be regarded as the Grst — viz., that passing through the Great ^ramid
of Jeezeh.* When the latitude and longitude of a place are known,
its exact position on the globe may at once he pointed out. The
value of a, degree of longitude varies according to the latitude, and
is nowhere equal to a decree of latitude, except on the equator. At
60° lat. a degree of longitude is equal to SO geographical miles, or
just the half of its length on the equator ; while at the polea it
vanishes to nothing.
uE&ade
aeog. KLIe..
Bug. MDm.
^S.1.
Oeog.U11es
EDg-Milt*
0
60.00
69.07
BO
38.57
44.35
10
69.09
87.95
60
B0.OO
34.53
IS
67.9a
06.05
85
2S,36
29.15
70
20.52
25
G4,3S
62.53
16.53
17.88
30
61. 9S
69.75
SO
10.42
40
4S.9a
62.85
0.00
0.00
45
42.34
48-78
I
I
MATHEMATICAL GEOCRAPJIY. 13
The Ecliptic is a (^eat tirc^Io, nhtch rcpresottta Iho suit's apparent
snnuat track amoug the fixed gtars. It derives its name tvota being
the cirula on or near which the moon muat be in the case of an
edUwa. Its plane makes an angle of 231° '"th t^a pl«i» "f 'lie
et]iiatAr. Tlie snnia in the north, or highest point of the Ecliptic,
on 21at June ; and he is then vertical at the tropic of Cancer ; he ia
in the HOUth, or lowest point, on 21at December, nud ia then vertical
at the tropic of Capricorn. The Ecliptic is divided into twelve equnl
parts, called atgnt, of S0° each, named from the coDstellattons or
sTonps of stars throngh which the aun appears succeadvely to pass.
These, with the days on which the sun enters them, are as fallows : —
Arto, Unn
Tarmu, April II
\SpHns.
Llbn, Sep. 23.
f'U.
Scorpio, Oct. I
Bigittulas, Sov. ii. I
CKprloomiu, Dec SS. )
AquorlDB, »n. 30. [Wlntir.
t n^Tt, Aug. ». ; PUces, Feb. ID. i
The OOlnraa are two meridians which divide the Ecliptic into four
equal parts, making the four Seaaons of the year. One of them in-
tersect the eqainoctial pointy Aries and Libra, and is thence called
the Equinoctial Colure ; the other intersects the solstitial points,
Cimcer and Capricorn, and is called the Solstitial Colure.
The Small ClrcleB are the Tropica, the Parallels of Latitude,
and the Polar Circles.
The Troidoi are two small circles parallel ta the equator, and at
the distance of 23t°, north and aouth. They are so named becansu
the aun, arrived at them in his apparent annual course, seems ta
turn atcay, either northward or southward, as the case may be. The
northern ia called the Tropie of Cancer, and the southern the Tropic
of Capricorn, because they touch the ecliptic in the beginning of thoBS
The Parallels of Latitude are small circles parallel to the equator,
tlie abject of which is to indicate the latitude of places, and to eun-
uect together alt places on the globe having Uie same latitude.
Though on globes and maps of the world tliey an: nsually drawn at
intervals of 10°, every place is supposed to have a parallel of latitude
passing throngh it.
The Pol&r (ardes are two small circles, drawn aronnd the North
and South Pole respectively — the former being called the Arctic,
and the latter the Antarctic Circle. Their distance from the Pales
is 234°, that being the angle formed by the earth's axis and a line
drawl) perpendicular to the earth's orbit. When the sun is vertical
to places situated an the Tropic of Cancer, his rays ext«nd beyond
the Pole to the Arctic Circle, and all countries within the Antarctic
Circle are then in darkneSB.
Zones-— The Tropics and Polar Circles divide the surface o(
tlie eartk into iive great Climatal Zones or Bella — viz.:
1. One Tonld Zons, 17° in breadth, or 231° "■> either side of the
Equator, and bounded by the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn.
14
MATHEMATICAL GEOGRAPHY.
WORTH POLE
WEST
EitST
SOUTH POLE
Zones and Circles.
Every place in this wide region has the sun vertical to it twice
a-year ; and as the sun's rays never fall very obliquely on any part
of it, the temperature at the surface of the earth is here always very
high.
2. Two Temperate Zones, one northern and the other southern,
each 43° in breadth, lying between the Tropics and the Polar
Circles. Never having the sun vertical, they are characterised
by a lower temperature
than tropical regions ;
the fruits of the earth
are less luxuriant and
spontaneous; and man,
compelled to exercise
his corporeal and thinl^-
ing powers, attains to a
higher degree of intel-
ligence and civilisation
than in those regions
where his wants are sup-
plied without any exer-
tion on his part.
3. The Two Frigid
Zones, each 234° in
radius, are included
within the Polar Circles.
They are deprived of the influence of the sun for long inter-
vals in winter, and have a correspondingly greater length of
day in summer, when his rays fall very obliquely on the sur-
lace. These conditions, coupled with the extreme cold of the long
winters, are so unfavourable to human culture and human happiness,
that the tribes who inhabit the frigid zone have not been able to
attain to any considerable degree of civilisation.
The Moon, or the Earth's Satellite. — The earth, on her annual
journey round the sun, is attended by a nioon or satellite, which re-
volves round her in the same way as the former does round the cen-
tral luminary. Of the five planets and numerous planetoids situated
between the centre of the system and the orbit of Jupiter, the earth
alone enjoys the advantage of such a companion ; while all the other
planets possessed of satellites are not only of vastly greater dimen-
sions, but also greatly farther from the sun. The mean distance of
the moon from the earth is 239,840 miles, or little more than half
the sun's radius, and she performs her revolution round her primary
in one lunar month of 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes. It is a re-
markable fact that this is also the precise time in which she rotates
round her own axis. Hence, at all times, the moon presents very
nearly the same face to the earth. The time of her rotation is
much longer than that of any of the planets ; but, so far as yet ascer-
tained, all the other satellites belonging to our system follow the
same law — that is, they rotate on their axes in the same time as they
revolve around their primaries. Unlike the sun and fixed stars.
ilATilEMATlCAl, GEOGRAPIIV. 15
wliicli are aiiU-lumiuoUB, the moon, in coTTirami witli all tlie iilniiets
Hud satelliteH, sliinBs by reflected Ustt derived from the centnll lu-
minaiy. Her urbit is incliiied to that of tbe earlii at an angle of
5° S*, bnt for wliicli we ahoald Iiave iul eclipse of the bud and moon
^ilternatelf every fortnight. There is a total eclipse of the snn vrhen
the moon ia near the eiuth, aud the sun, earth, and moon in the
soma straigbt line ; and an amailar eolipse wheu, being more remoto
from the earth, her apparent diameter is leta than that of the sun.
The BorfEice of the moon presenta the aspect of a voluaniu wildar-
oesa, beinj; interaperaed irith enormona crateriibrm monntuius,
dykea, and lara streams, while no diversities of eea and land are
diacamible.
—Them
y (aided by that of the sun at
f the 0i3ean into a great tidal
a her path through the
new and full n
vrave, whidt seems to follow the s
heavens. This attraction, howevot, directly aooounta for only o
high tide ot any place every lunar day of 24 hours, 60 miaittea ;
whereaa, in raahty, there are two high tides, occnmng at intervala
of 12 bouts, 26 minutes. The other takes place at the same instant,
hut on the opposite side of the earth's surface, aud is caused by the
1 drawing towards hot the nearer or aolid part of the planet
with greater foroe than the more distant iraters.
When the moon ia in the position M [aea moon], or nt m(ftiU m
It acta in conjunclion with the sun. The tides on both sides of the
earth are then at the highest, and are called Spring Tides. Bnt
when the moon is at M' (first ijuarler), or at m' {Imt gaarler], the
waters rise the least, as the attraction of the sun, acting at right
anglea to that of the moon, considerably neutraiisas the effect of die
latter, and produces what are known as Nenp Tides.
16
PAKT II.
PHYSICAL GEOGSAPHT.
1. — Materials, Density, and Attractive Power op the
Earth. — Of the interior of the planet which we inhabit we
know almost nothing, our observation being confined to a por-
tion of its external crust, or rind, rarely exceeding 14 miles in
depth, or ^l^ of the distance from the surface to the centre.
Even this insignificant distance is attained by adding the height
of the loftiest mown mountain to the depth below 3ie sea-level
of the deepest ocean sounding (p. 22). The Geologist, however,
without penetrating beneath tne siirface, but by carefully ex-
amining the order of superposition of the stratified rocks, has
made us more or less ac(}uainted with a depth of about 25 miles.
Small as this portion is, when compared with the immense
volume enclosed by it, it presents to our view a vast variety of
substances, each of which has a character peculiar to itself. On
examination, they are nearly all foimd to be compound bodies,
which, on being analysed, are reducible to 65 constituent ele-
ments.
ConstitaeiitB of the Earth's Crust.— These 65 elements tbe chemist
divides into two groups,— the Metallic and the Non-metaUic The
metals are 52 in number, the best known of them being gold, silver,
copper, iron, lead, tin, zinc, and mercury ; while the metalloids, or
non-metallic class, consists of only 13, the principal of which are
oxycen, hydrogen,* nitrogen, carbon, sulphur, and pnosphorus. Each
of these elementary substances has properties peculiar to itself ; and,
what is more remarkable, on each of taeifi the Creator has stamped,
in deep and indelible characters, a particular number, which forms,
as it were, the law of its being, and determines in what proportions
it shall combine with other substances. This law of definite pro-
portions serves in the mineral kingdom the same end as the laws
which regulate the propagation of species in the vegetable and animal
kingdoms ; the identity of species is rigidly preserved, and, notwith-
standing the prodigious number of combinations, all confusion is
avoided.
Density of the Earth.— Each of the 65 elementary substances has
a density or specific gravity peculiar to itself, ranging from hydrogen,
which is the lightest, to platinum, which is the heaviest ; but the
resulting mean densi^ of the Earth is 5.7 the weight of its own
* From recent experiments by the late Professor Graham of London University,
it would appear that hydrogen must now be regarded as a metaL
COSFiaOEATION OF TUE EARTH 9 BtTRFACE.
17
—2S
Tralk oEdistiUed water at the temperatnra of 63°. Thus, wliilo tho
BpeciSo gravity of Mercury is n«arly a foarth. greater, that of Tenua
nni Mara ia aearlr equal, while that of the San and Jupiter is four,
TTrllDiia five, and Neptune six times leaa. As the snecinc gravity of
the substances fonniog the cruat of tha Earth rorely exceeds 3, ths
obWons iaference seems to be, that the interior of the planet oaaDot
be llollow, bnt^ on the eontrary, most consisl; of metalB, or of othet
materials in a highly condensed and incandescent state.
The AttractlTe EnsTEy wliich the Earth exercises on all material
substances near its surface is such that, when freely Buspendad, they
■re drawn towards it with a Telocity of 16 feet in the Hrst second of
time ; three times 16 feet the next second ; /ve times 16 feet tha
third second ; and so on, following the order of the odd numbers of
the scale. Comparing the Earth, in this particular, with the other
]ilanets, we find that bodies fitlling towards the
surface of Mars desr^nd with only a fonrth of
this Telocity ; while in Jupiter the Telocity ia
two and a half times greater. At great eleva-
tions ahore the surface the intensity of the force
of gravitation decreases in the inverse ratio ijf
thx »guaTt of tM dielaiice. Thus, a body which
(in a spring baknl^e) weighs 16 ounces at tha
surface, wui weigh only i ounces at the dis-
tance of two semi-diameters from the centre, or
one serai-diaraeter above the anrfece ; while at
the diatanoo of four semi-diaiaetera it will weigh
iinly 1 oaneo. Under the surface the law of
decrease is very different, it heinK there di-
rectly Of the dialanix from the centre. Thua,
at one thousand miles below the surface the
body will weigh 12 oonces ; half-way towards I
the centre, 8 ounces ; at the distance of a thon-
sand miles from the centre, i ounces ; while at
the centre the pressure on the balance will bo
nothing. The accompanying diagram will
render these obBervations more intelligible to the pupiL
2. CosFTQUHATioi' OF THE SuBFAOE. — The terraqueons globe
must be aiijjposed to haTa assumed ita present epheroidal form
when rotftting in its primitive incandescent state. This form
the vast collection of waters now on its surface powerfully tends
to peipetnnte— ;S''»'f ^Y the''' capacity of yielding to the centri-
fugal force arising from the planera rotatory motion j and,
ewondly, by their filling up inmimerable depreaaiona in its
crust — depressions whiet it is now certain, exceed in depth
the highest elevations of the land. These elevations very
larely amount to the ,i, part of the radius, and, therefore,
L BCMcely interfere with the re^ilar form of the planet In fact,
"■^ " n-cbains on the globe produce no greater deviation
18 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPUY.
from its spheroidal shape than the small protuberances on the
rind of an orange do on its general form.
Diilsion into Land and Water. — ^The surface of the earth, which,
as we have akeady seen, comprises an area of 197,000,000 square
miles, is very unequally divided into land and water. The total
area of the land is estimated at £2,000,000 sq. m., or a little more
than i of the entire surface ; while the waters cover 144,712,850 sq.
m., or nearly | of the whole.* The land is, moreover, very unequally
distributed over the surface : thus, the northern hemisphere contains
three times as much land as the southern ; the eastern hemisphere,
or Old World, contains twice as much as the western ; and if a great
circle be drawn roimd the globe, having London as its centre, it will
divide the surface in such a way as that nearly all the land will be
in one hemisphere — ^which may therefore be called the contmenkU
hemisphere; while the other, or that which has Antipodes IsiLand*
near New Zealand, as its centre, will be nearly all water, and may
therefore be called the oceanic hemisphere — only that it contains
Australia and a portion of South America. If we regard the earth
as divided into zones instead of hemispheres, we find uiat the North
Temperate Zone, or that in which the continent of £urope is situated,
is the one which contains the greatest proportion of land.
Ck>ntinents. — The land surface of the globe is further broken up
into huge masses, called continents, which are six in number — viz.,
Europe, Asia, Africa, North America, South America, and Australia,
but should Antarctica turn out to be a continent, the number will be
seven. These, however, are not always detached from each other,
but collected into groups, the members of which are generally united
by isthmuses. Properly speaking, there are only three continents —
viz., first, the Old World, containing Europe, Asia, and Africa ;
second, the New World, embracing North and South America ; and
thirdy the Australian continent — ^ue only important mass of land in
the oceanic hemisphere, with the exception of the recently-discovered
countries within the Antarctic Circle {see p. 26). Of these grand
continents the eastern or Old World is by far the largest and most
important, having an area of 32,500,000 sq. m., a maritime coast-
line of 60,000 m., and a pop. of 1,312,000,000. The area of tlie
western continent, or New World, is 16,000,000 sq. m., being almost
exactly \ of the former ; its pop. 80,000,000, or 4z of the Old
World ; while its coast-line is only 32,000 m., or but little more than
^ of the Old World. Australia has an area estimated at 3,000,000
Sq. m., being \ of the western continent, and a population of 1,600,000,
or /^ of America.
Contour and EleYation.— The following are some of the compari-
sons, equally interesting and curious, that have been drawn by Cm-I
Ritter and other geographers between the two great continents, in
respect to their forms of contour and reli^: —
1. The greatest length of the Old World is from east to west, while
that of the New is from north to south ; in other words, the eastern con-
tinent has its greatest extension in the direction of the paralUlt, while
* The exact ratio of land to water is as 1 : 2.85L
CONFIGUEATIOK OF THE EAKTH'b SUKFACE. 19
the western has its greatest exteDsion in the direction of the mendians.
2. The greatest extension of both continents towards the north and south
is nearl}' iinder the same meridianB. Thus, the Cape of* Good Hope is
nearly in the same meridian with Gape Nordkyn in Norway ; the penin-
Buk of Malacca with Cape Bevero in Siberia ; and Cape Horn with the
north-west angle of Greenland. The last-mentioned country, however,
is now known to be detached from the North American continent. 8.
Both continents attain their greatest extension from west to east along
the same parallel — viz., that of 50" N. 4. Both continents spread out
widely towards the nortii, where they closely approach each other ; both
are abruptly terminated by the Arctic Ocean in nearly the same latitude
— viz., that of 72° ; whereas toward the south they widely diverge, and
narrow down to single promontories. 5. In either continent a large por-
tion of the area is nearly detached from its prindpal mass : thus Africa is
nearly severed from the one continent, and South America from the other.
C. Ail the great pQiinsulas of both continents follow a southerly direc-
tion ; as the Scandinavian, Spamsh, Italian, Hellenic peninsulas, Africa,
Arabia, Hindostan, Further India, Coi«a, and Kamtschatka, in the one ;
and Caiifomia, South Ajnerica, Florida, and Nova Scotia, in the other.
The only important exceptions to this generalisation are Jutland in the
Old World, with Yucatan and Boothia Felix in the New, all of which
stretch noHh/ioard ; and Anatolia in the former, and Alaska in the
latter, wliich project towards the west. 7. The opposite coasts of the two
grand continents are strikingly conformable to each other, the projections
of the one being opposite to the indentations of the other, though separ-
ated by the breadth of the Atlantic : thus Brazil stands opposite to the
Gulf of Guinea ; Western Africa to the Gulf of Mexico ; Nova Scotia to
the Bay of Biscay ; while the opposite coasts of Greenland and Norway
are nearly parallel 6. Looking at the two continents in another way, we
tind that Africa with Madagascar has its counterpart in South America
with the Falkland Isles ; while Florida and the West Indies have a simi-
lar correspondence with Malacca and the East Indian Archipelago. 9.
Taking the six separate continents, it is a remarkable fact that, with the
exception of Africa, they all present to the ocean on their nortiiem sides
broad flats of low-l3ring land ; while their southern extremities are rocky,
pointed, and elevated. Again, while Africa, South America, and, we
may almost add. North America, contract toward the south into single
promontories, each of the others sends out three separate projections,
which curiously corre^ond, each to each. Thus the Spanisn peninsula
resfflnbles Arabia ; Itsuy with Sicily corresponds to Inma with Ceylon ;
and the Hellenic peninsula, with its adjacent islands, to Further India
with the Malay Archipelago. 10. But the most important feature of
configuration is that which has reference to their comparative lengths of
eoast'line. While the three southern continents present to the ocean an
almost unbroken outline, neither receiving its waters into their bosoms
nor projecting into it any important poiinsulas, the three northern ones
are highly indented, thou^ in very different degrees, their masses evinc-
ing a tendency to break up into members. Thus, while Asia and North
America has each an extensive line of coast, Europe has wholly surren-
dered herself to the ocean, as if conscious that, at a future time, that
element would become one of the chief sources of her prosperity.
Vertical Sellef. — In regard to the lines of vertical relief, on the
other hand, the following are the most important generalisations : —
1 . AU the continents rise gradually from the sea-shore towards t\\t m-
20 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
terior, where they attain their maximum elevation ; and thus each of
them presents to the surrounding ocean two great slopes, which greatly
differ, however, in length and degree of inclination. 2. In the Ola
World, the long gentle slope is inclined toward the north, and the short
abrupt slope toward the south ; while in the New World the gentle slope
is toward the east, and the abrupt toward the west. 8. But while each
of the grand continents has thus a law peculiar to itself, it is also influ-
enced by the law of the other. Thus, though in the Old World the lonff
or gentle slope is toward the north, and the short or abrupt one toward
the south, it is also true that the slope fronting the east is more gradual
than that fronting the west. In like manner, though in- the New World
the longer slope fronts the east, and the shorter the west, it is also true
that the slope which fronts the north is gentler than that which fronts the
south. 4. The elevated ridge formed by the intersection of the great
slopes or watersheds is usually occupied by lofty mountain-chains, and
constitutes the grand water-oartings of the different continents. Hence
in the Old World the general direction of the principal mountain-ranges
is from east to west, while in the New it is from nortn to south ; while in
both they extend in the direction of the greatest len^k of the continents*
Thus, in the eastern continent, one immense mountain-chain extendi,
wil^ few interruntions, from the western extremity of the Pyrenees to
the vicinity of Behring Strait ; while in the western, an almost unbroken
range extends from the north-east angle of Alaska to the southern ex-
tremity of Patagonia. 5. Hiis law holds equally true in regard to all
the more important peninsulas and islands. Thus Scandinavia, Italy,
Malacca, Corea, Eamtschatka, and Lower California, together with Great
Britain, Corsica, Sardinia, Sicil}', Crete, Madagascar, Sumatra, Java,
Japan, Cuba, Hayti, Jamaica, and New Zealand, are all traversed by
mountain-ranges in the direction of their greatest lengths. 6. While in
both hemispheres the reliefs go on increasing irova. the poles to the
equator, the highest elevations of the eastern liemisphere occur in the
vicinity of the Tropic of Cancer, while in the western they are found
near the Tropic of Capricorn : compare the positions of Mount Everest
in the Himalaya, with that of Aconcagua, in the Andes. 7. A remark-
able similarity exists between Europe and Asia in respect to their re-
liefs. Thus the Pyrenees and Alps correspond with the Taurus, Cau-
casus, and Himalayan ranges ; the basin of the lower Danube has its
counterpart in Tonquin; European Turkey corresponds with Fur*
ther India ; Venetian Lombardy with the basin of the Ganges ; while
Delhi, Calcutta, and Bombay at once suggest Milan, Venice, and Genoa.
8. Notwithstanding the imposing height of the various mountain-chains,
the mean elevation of the continents depends far less on this than on the
general configuration and extent of the plains and table-lands. For
example, if the entire mass of the Alps were pulverised and distributed
over the whole extent of Europe, its sui'face would not thereby be raised
more than 22 feet above its present level ; while, on the contrary, were
the great plateau of Spain, which has an elevation of only 2000 feet,
levelled down and spread in a similar manner over the continent, the
general surface would be raised 76 feet. Taking each of the continents
separately, the average elevation of Europe would be 671 feet : of North
America, 748 feet ; of South America, 1132 feet ; and of Asia, 1151 feet :
and it is estimated that if all the inequalities of the earth's surface were
reduced to a uniform natural level, the land would have an- elevation
aVove the sea-level of 925 feet. If these data could be relied on, the real
level of the eaith's surface^ as distinguished from that of the sea, could
tJ^f-
nately estimated al 230 foet liiglier
I. The Ocean. — About 144,712,850 square milea, or nearly
tliree-fourthe of the entire superflciea of tlie fjlolie, are peima-
nently covered with water, the euriace of which forma a true
natural level, all the jwrta of which are nearly equidistant from
the earth's centre. Such a level, in the case of a rotating; body
like the earth, the materials of which were once capable of
yielding to the influences of gravity and of the other forces that
acted upon it, is of a spheroidal form, like that of an orange, and
differs materially from a dead, horizontal level, such as the floor
of an apartment. Tlie euiface of lakes, deserts, plains, and even
of the continents, conforms itself to this natural level ; it forma
the limit from which all the elevations of the land and tha
soundings of the ocean are measured ; and, in constructing a
canal or a railwav along the surface, an allovaiiue must always
be made for this difference, amounting to about 8 inches in the
mile. By the inTestigations of H.M.S. Challenger and other
expeditions, it is now ascertained that, contrary to all former
ideas, the average depth of the ocean does not exceed 2000
fathoms, or rather more than 2 miles. The surface temperature
of the ocean varies with the latitude and season of the year, hut
except in the neighbourhood of ice, it is everywhere' warmer
than lower down. After a depth of 100 fathoms (at which
seasonal changes have no effect) the temperature invariably de-
creases as the depth increases, until we arrive at a depth of
20O0 fathoms, where, as a rule, it remains stationary at or about
35° Fuhr. The waters of the ocean are salt and bitter, their
density varying according to the quantity of saline matter they
contain. Generally speaking, the quantity of salt ia from 3.5
to 4.0 per cent of the entire volume, the resulting density being
1.0£7& — pure water being unity. Animalaof many orders and
genera — some of them, too, of very high organisation — exist at the
profoundest depths of the ocean. Sponges, annelids, moUuscB,
echinodemiB, and cmataceans, have already been found in vast
numbers. One expedition alone has added 127 species to the
molluscs already faiown to exist in British waters. These,
doubtless, are to be regarde<l as mere prognostications of a new
world about to te revealed to naturalists,
The Atlantic Ocean desi>rve9 tha lirat place, for thongh less than
half the size of tlie Pacific, it is the best-luiawn to EaropeRns; and of
all Oia great watsrs o( the globe it has always bean tho most im-
portant, as that on whose shores and gulfs the ereater number of the
civilised nations of the earth have taken up their abode. It occupies
a huge, angular, canal-ahaped basin, whose sides are nearly parallel
ounot DUinbeT as Hi rael—thiit being the beltht of its tMUitboTe Um leiL
22 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
to each other — the projections of the one side standing opposite to
the indentations of tne other; extends from N. to S. ahont 9000 miles;
separates the Old World, on the east side, from the New on the
west ; and connects the Arctic with the Antarctic Ocean. It varies
greatly in breadth in different parts, being 4100 mUes between the
shores of Marocco and the Isthmns of Florida; 1700 miles between
Brazil and Sierra Leone; and 900 miles between Greenland and the
coast of Noiway. The area is estimated at 35,000,000 square miles,
or nearly half the area of the Pacific It is distingmshed from
all the- other oceans by the fewness of its islands and the great num-
ber of seas and gulfs which it projects into the continents. Its aver-
age depth, as ascertained by the Ohalleuger Expedition of 1872-76, is
about 2500 fathoms. In the N. Atlantic it rarely exceeds 2000, thoi^
here they obtained one sounding of 3916 fathoms, or 23,500 feet,
which is now to be regarded as the greatest known depth of this ocean.
A submarine plateau runs north and south, near the middle, with
an average depth of less than 2000 fathoms, having the Azores
as its culmination. This plateau narrows as it approaches 50** N.,
where it touches the so-called " Telegraphic Plateau," which extends
from the coast of Ireland to that of Newfoundland, and on whidi
are laid the telegraphic cables between Europe and America.
The princix)al Branches of the Atlantic are the Baltic, the North Sea,
the Irish Sea, the English Channel, the Bay of Biscay, the Mediterranean,
and the Gulf of Guinea, on the east side ; and Hudson Bay, Gulf of St
Lawrence, Gulf of Mexico, and the Caribbean Sea, on the west. The
principal Islands and Archipelagos are, Iceland, the British Isles,
Azores, Madeira, Canary and Cape Verd Isles, near its eastern shores ;
and Newfoundland, Cape Breton, Bermudas, Bahamas, Antilles, and the
Falkland Isles, near its western. Its chief Affluents fit)m the Old World
are the Neva, Rhine, Loire, Tagus, Rhone, Po, Danube, and Don ; Nile,
Senegal, Niger, Congo, and Orange ; and from the New World, the St
Lawrence, Mi9sissippi, and Rio Grande del Norte ; the Orinoco, Amazon,
and Rio de la Plata. Among its principal Currento are, the Equatorial
Current, which flows firom the coast of South Africa to the Caribbean Sea,
with a velocity of from 18 to 20 miles a-day, and a temperature of 75® ; ana
the far more celebrated Gulf Stream, which, leaving the Gulf of Mexico.
flows through the Strait of Florida with a velocity of 80 miles a-day, and
a mean temperature of 81** Fahr. " After having run 3000 i^es towards
the north, it still preserves, even in winter, the heat of summer. With this
temperature it crosses the 40th degree of north latitude, and there over-
flowing its liquid banks, it spreads itself out for thousands of square
leagues over the cold waters around, and covers the ocean with a mantle
of warmth that serves so much to mitigate in Europe the rigours of
winter. Moving now more slowly, but dispensing its genial influences
more freely, it finally meets the British Islands. By these it is divided,
one part ^oing into the polar basin of Spitzbeigen, the other entering tilie
Bay of Biscay, but each with a warmth considerably above the ocean
temperature." The Trade-Winds blow regidarly in its intertropical
regions; but beyond these limits the winds are variable. Thus we see
that the waters of the Atlantic between the equator and the 40th parallel
are kept in a perpetual whirlpool, the circumference of which cannot be
less than from eleven to twelve thousand miles. In the centre of this
THE OCEAN. 23
revolving current tliere is a mass of nearly atagnsnt water, covered liy
riense mu^ea of on fveiKreeti sca-weeil, cnlled Fitcua Natajis, nhicti tnada
■□ livijy aa impression on ths nuad o( Columbna and Ms crew when about
to disiover America in 1492.
The Bu)]fic Ocean sapai-atea America on the east, from Asia, Ma-
lajiis, and Anatralia on the iveat; and is by far the Ki^n^^est ex-
pacas of water on the K^obe, hsvins an area estimated at 72,DDD,00O
square miles, or equal to one-half the entire waters of the globe.
Unlike the Atkntic, of which it is fully douhle the size, itA
grentest: length is from E. to W. along the equator — a direction in
which it Bitfitida 175*. or upwards of 13,000 roilea, reckoning from
the coast of Fora to the Malay peninsula. Its greatest breadth,
between Behring Strait and the Antarctic Circle, is 9000 miles, cor-
responding with the extreme length of the Atlantic Its shape is
somewhat oval, being widest in the middle and contracting towarila
both extremities, especiallj in the north, where the opposite shores
are onlj 36 nules apart. The Pacific Ocean was unknown to
Europeans till the year 1513, whtn it was discovered by Vaeeo Ifuttet
de Bilbao, from the autnmit of a mouQtaiu near the Isthmus ol
Panama. Magaihaens, who aailed from America to the Philippine
Islands, in 1S21, bestowed on it the name of Pacific, in CDnsequenco
of the calm and delightful weather he experienced while navigating
its aiuface.
The coaat-lijie, an the American side, thongh liold. Is very little in-
dsDted by the ocean, the principal Inleti and Branches being, Beliring
Sea, or the Sea of Eamtsahstka, the Gulf of California, and Bay of
PuuuDB ; while of those on its western side the chief are, the Sea of
Okhotsk, Sea of Japan, Yellow Sea, China Sea, and Gulf of Blam, witb
the Gulf of Carpentaria in Anstralia. This ocean is especially charoc-
tansed by the immense nnmber of ArcWpela^os— many of which are of
volcanic, and others of submarine u'oral formation— that are scattered over
its surface, especially in iti weiteni and central parts. North of the
Tropic of Cancer the principal gronpa are, the Japan IbIbs, Kurile Isles,
Aleutian Isles, Quean Chaifuttc's Island, and Viuicouver Island. South
of the Tropic ot Cancer, and proceeding from W. to B., we find Malaysia,
or the Malay ArehipelsEO, tho Ladrones, Caroline Isles, Marsliall Archi-
pelago, Saudwich Isles, and the Galapagos Islands near the South Ame-
rican cmai. Then returning weatwani, we came to the Marqnesss, X.dw
Atchipelago, Society Islands, Hervey or Cook's Islands, Navigators'
Islands, Friendly Islands, Fiji Islands, Queen Charlotte's Islands, Salo-
mon Isles, New HebrideB. New Caledonia, and New Zealand. Its chief
AflnoBta troai the Old Worid are, the Amour, Hoang-Ho, Yang-tae-
£ian^ Cambodia, Ueinam ; and from the New World, the Frszer,
Columbia, and Coloiulo. The principal Current of this ocean la oalled
the Eqnatorial Cnrrent, which, origlnathig in the Antarctic Drift Cur-
rent, nowa N. along the western shores ol South America to the coast of
Pern, and then W, through the Pacific, where it occupies the entire space
between the tropics, producing a genial coolness, where otherwise the heat
would be almost insupportable. Opposite Lima, on the Peruvian eoiwt,
Ita temperature b 11° below that of^tho neighbouring ocean ; and even at
Payta, which is 7 degrees farther N., it is 10° colder than the aea in its
vicmity. Farther W. it gradually loses its cooling powers, which, how-
ever, are perceptible to the vicinity of the Morquesaii.
24 PUYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
The Indian Ocean separates Malaysia, Australia, and Tasmania,
on the east, from Arabia and Africa on the west ; its northern
bonndary is formed by the shores of India and Biluchistan, and its
southern, by tiie Antarctic Circle. Its shape would have approxi-
mated to an ec^uilateral triangle, had not A^ia projected its hugest
peninsula into its apex, and given it a very irregular form. Extend-
ing from a little beyond the Tropic of Cancer to the Antarctic Circle,
its greatest length is 90% or about 6000 miles ; while its extreme
breadth, from Cape A^lhas to Tasmania, is expressed by the same
number. The area is generally estimated at 25,000,000 square
miles, or 20,000,000 when its southern boundary is formed by a line
connecting South Cape in Tasmania with Cape Agulhas in Amca.
In proportion to its ma^itude it equals even the Atlantic as to the
mmiber and extent of the Branches which it sends into the land, espe-
cially on its northern frontier. The principal of these are the Bay of
Bengal ; the Arabian Sea, with its members, the Gulf of Kachh, Gulf of
Oman, and the Persian Gulf ; the Gulf of Aden with the Red Sea ; the
Channel of Mozambique ; Encounter Bay, St Vincent Gulf, Spencer Gulf,
and the Great Australian Bight, in Australia. The only Islands of con-
siderable magnitude are Ceylon and Madagascar; but smaller islands
and archipelagos are numerous, as Bourbon, Mauritius, Comoro, Ami-
rantes, Seychelles, Socotra ; the Laccadive, Maldive, and Chagos archi-
pelagos ; Kodrigues ; the Andaman, Nicobar, and Mergui archipelagos ;
Keeling Islands ; St Paul aild Amsterdam ; Eerguelen or Desolation
Island, &c. Its larger Affluents are nearly all from the Asiatic continent,
as the Irawadi, Brahmaputra, Ganges, Mahanadi, Godaveri, Krishna,
Tapti, Nerbudda, Indus, and Euphrates ; together with the Zambezi
from Africa, and the Mmxay from Australia. The waters of the Indian
Ocean being as hot as even those of the Gulf of Mexico, several warm
Currents flow out of it in various directions. One of these originates in
the Bay of Bengal, and after passing through the Strait of Malacca,
unites with other warm currents from the Java and China seas, and
then flows out into the Pacific like another Gulf Stream — to which,
indeed, both in its direction and effects, it bears numerous and striking
resemblances. Another current, from the Arabian and Red Seas, flows
southwards between Africa and Madagascar, tiU it meets the Cape Cur-
rent from the Atlantic, south of Cape Colony. The latter current,
formerljr supposed to be flowing northward along the west coast of
Africa, is now ascertained t<i be flowing southward, till, after uniting
with the Mozambique cun-ent, both find their way into the intensely
cold waters of the Antarctic Ocean.
The Arctic Ocean, or north polar basin, is bonnded in general by
the northern shores of Continental Europe, Asia, and America, all of
which remarkably conform to the parallel of 72^; and hence its
form is nearly circular, and its usual breadth 2500 miles. In other
directions it is bounded by the Arctic Circle, which separates it from
the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and forms the northern limit of sun-
shine in winter. Its greatest length from Behring Strait to that
point on the Norwegian coast at which the Arctic Circle cuts the
land — ^that is, along the meridian of 124** E. — is 3240 miles; and
the total area is estimated at 5,000,000 square miles. Except on the
Atlantic sidC; the waters of this ocean are virtually land-locked«
TDE OCEAN. 25
the outlet by Behring Strait being onlj 36 miles viie, with a mim-
matn depth of S5 fotnoma. Hmnerona attempts have heen made to
Teach the Pole, bnt as yet all have proTed imsaecessfnl. The latest
was bj the British Expedition nader Captain Narea, which returned
to England in October 187S. Captain Nares, proceeding up Davis
Strait and Smith's Sound, penetrated aa far as 83° 20', heing 35
miles beyond the furthest paint hitberto attained, and only 100
thickness. The depth of water here was 72 fathoms, and the lowest
winter temperature — 72° Fahr. The long sought JVortt- Wesi Fasaage—
that is to say, a navigable passage from European countriea to China
along the northern coast of America — was at last, after inDiunerable
unanccessfnl efforts continued for two centuries, effected hy Captain
Maolnro, who, in 1860, achieved the haiatdoua task by sailing ont of
the Pttciic through Behring Strait; then, turning eastward, pursued
hia conwe along the coast till he came to Cape Bathurat, at the
entrance to Coronation Galf ; theo northward, along the west coast
of Banks' Land to Melville Sound, which he entered ; and continued
has dangeroua voyuge eastward to Baf!iu Bay and Davis Strait ; and
1 finally entered the Atlantic. It now appears, however, that the
I lionour of the discovery ia really due to Sir John Franklin, who left
I England in search of a north-west passage in 1S15, hut who perished
In the attempt in 1847. Notwithstanding the success of this bril-
liant exploit, the route thus discovered is all but absolutely impmc-
ticable, and can never be of any avail in a conmetcial point of view ;
while the same route in the opposite direction remains still unnccam-
pliabed.
The principal Branchei of the Arctic Ocean are, the White Sea, in
Europe; the Gulfa of Kara, Obi, and Yenisei, m Asia ; Behring Strait,
between Asia and the New World ; and Coronation Gulf, Melville Sooiul,
Barrow Strait, Lancaster Sound, and Baffin Bay, in North America.
The Blveta that find their way into this ocean are, for the most part,
of great magnitude. Having their sources aa far south as the SOth
paroUe), in hoth hemiapheres, they drain an area fuUy equal to that of
the ocean which they enter, or considerably more than that of the conti-
nent of Europe. The chief of those from the Old World ar* the Dwina,
Petchora, Obi, Teniasi, Lena, and Kolyma ; and from the New World,
the Colville, Macltenzie, and Coppermine. The northward direction of
these rirera imparls a sliiking pecuharity (o the annual thawln)^ of their
waters. As their upper courses belong to more temperate latitudes than
their lower, the former are melted by the heat of the sun at an earlier
data than the latter, and discharge their liberateil contenta into the
valleys and eatunrios below, which, being thus iimndated hy waters of a
comparatively elevated temperature, apeedily give way in turn ; and
thus, in a compaistively brief period, the entire ocean is covered with
an immense volume of freah water of more than 32° of temperature,
which now becomes the prime mover of that Meaa-cnrrent that, everj-
■nmmsr, drifts the polar ice int^ the Atlantic. Another cause, however,
eo-operatea in producing this pheuomenoo. The north-east branch of the
Gnlf Stream from the Atlantic enters the Arctic Ocean between Norway
' on the one side, and Iceland and Spitibergcn on the other, Donbliug
26 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
the North Cape, it flows eastward, close to the shores of Lapland and
Siberia, the rigorous climate of which it materially softens. Arriving
at Behring Strait, it is greatly increased in volume and force by the
Japan current from the Pacific, and now pursuing its circuitous journey,
it eventually arrives at Banks* Land and the Parry Islands. The IslanoB
of this ocean are but imperfectly known. They are for the most part
uninhabited, and are important only a.s the temporary abodes of the
whale, seal, and walrus hunter. The principal groups are the following :
Spitzbergen, Novaia Zemlia, Franz Joseph Land, and New Siberia, be-
tween the Pole and the Eastern Continent; and the great North American
Archipelago, the chief members of which are the Parry Islands, Banks'
Land, N. Somerset, Cockbum Island, Cumberland Island, Comwallis
Island, North Devon, EUesmere, Grinnell Land, Grant's Land, and
Greenland.
The Antarctic Ocean is far less accurately known to geographers
than any of the other great oceanic basins, the cold being more in-
tense, the winds and seas more boisterous, and the ice extending at
least 10° degrees nearer the equator than in the Arctic Basin. The
highest latitude yet attained in this ocean was reached by Sir James
Boss, who, in 1841, penetrated to lat. 78° 4', or within 815 miles of
the South Pole. In this latitude, and immediately S. of New Zea-
land, his progress southward was arrested by an ice-bound shore, on
which he landed, and which, in honour of his sovereign, he named
South Victoria Land. Other navigators, in approaching the pole
from other directions, have encountered similar obstructions at con-
siderably lower latitudes, as Adelie Land, S. of Australia ; Enderby
Land, S. of Madagascar ; and South Shetland, S. of Cape Horn. Pro-
bably, therefore, almost the entire area embraced by the Antarctic
Circle is occupied by a continent which is nearly circular in form,
and more than twice the size of Australia ; which is covered by eternal
snows, and wholly devoid of vegetation ; the shores of which are
guarded by gigantic volcanoes, or by impenetrable barriers of ice ;
and whose interior has never been trodden by the foot of man. One
of these volcanoes, named Mount Erebus, was found by Sir James
Ross to be 12,400 feet above the level of the sea, and in a state of
constant activity ; while Mount Terror, an extinct volcano, has an
altitude of 9000 feet. The seas around this continent are remark-
ably shallow, the depth rarely exceeding 400 fathoms. The tempera-
ture of the hottest month, even at the level of the sea, ranges from
11** Fahr. to the freezing-point of water. The baxometric pressure
is also greatly less than in tropical regions {see p. 28). Sir Jamea
Ross determined the position of the South Magnetic Pole to be within
the limits of South Victoria Land — viz., in lat. 75° 6' S., and Ion.
145° 8' E.
4. The Atmosphere.— Many of the phenomena of physical
geography are inexplicable without some previous acquaintance
with that thin, aerial, and invisible fluid called the Atmosphere,
which envelops the earth on all sides, which shares in its diur-
nal motion, and which accompanies it in its annual journey
round the son. In respect to composition, atmospheric air
TUE ATMOSPHERE. 27
consists almost exclusively of two gaseous, elementary sub-
stances, oxygen and nitrogen, in the proj)ortion of 21 parts by
volume of the former, and 79 jjarts of the latter, or, 23 parts by
weight of oxvgen, and 77 of nitrogen. It also contains a little
carlK)nic acid gas, a minute though very variable quantity of
aqueous vapour, and a trace of ammonia. The oxygen and
nitrogen are not chemically combined, but exist in a state of
mixture; yet their relative proportions remain invariable, Ijeiiig
the same on the summits of tne highest mountains as in the
deepest recesses of the surface, the same in the country as in
the crowded city, and the same in the tropical as in the frigid
zones. On the contrary, the carbonic acid and vapour of water
vary greatly in quantity in different localities, the one beiDff
affect^ by local causes, and the otlier mainly by changes of
temperature.
of the Atmotpliertt. — ^Notwithstanding its extreme light*
ii€SB, the air, in common with all other material bodies, is affo^cted
by the aU-pervading law of gravitation, and exerts a pressure on
1^ aorfiux of the earth which can easily be measttre<(i, A/^cording
TO Dr Prout, 100 cubic inches of pure dry air, at 60* of t(»apera'
tore, and ihe barometer standing at 30 mches, weigh 31 grainsif
The wdi^it on erery square inch (jf surCau^ at the level of the sea gene*
tbUt anKxmts to about 1 5 lb. avoirdupois, bdn^ the same as the weight
of a wAxmm of water of equal base, 34 fbet high, or of a coluirm of
mercmr 30 inches io^ Snpposoag the mufM^ of a man's body to
sMSBiire 15 sqnare feet, it castains a pressure of no less than 14 toos^
Beixt^ a hiduy elastic fluid, the deontT and ynmnam of the »tm<>'
^^j^nere rapadhr dknTTridi as we asoend upward, 1000 leet of Mist(y^f>t
(near like sDrSnoe) roo^r oorraponding to a USX of 1 imk m the
'baatoneter ; or, to ifpeak more exactir. As ih/t ^Jt4X)f^ii/im i»^*'j(uiiu im
*jal pr^presmKM. ThxB, at liie lerel of the «es, the pressure on ea^
stnocre inc^ is 15 lb., or oqnsl to a eolusm of 'SbfiXi:!txxr 30 ijudtiee
lii£^ : St 3.4 sola abore toe sorlaioe lite presstire w oofr 7^ Xb., or
lo'indieE of mercnnr: axtd «t ^6 aiiles « eier^tion, 3| Jb., or TJ
i&fdiss of menmrr. From lids the appOdestioD of the b&rosueUir in
asmgtaming li» jbeoj^bts of ixkoimtaixa becogB»es obrlous.
Bfik^it dr-tte AlaiiMpteEie. — ^Masr reasoai$ <:cfiLbine to indu<ie ttke
iKsbd* ihat the atmo^^bere does Jix/t erte&d to au ixkde&uul^ hetjgfat;
hut termiiacteE at as ahititde of l&xmi 45 to 50 fiule&* Xtt; heij^ is
also difierent in difiereait latrtodes, beinir oososideraUr ip:«8$«r botwees
tht TTiqpioE than wrdmi 1i» Polar Cird^s. This is onriu* partly to
the creata- cemxifasaJ foroe liuct exerts is the oquatoritU than in ths
polar resnoia ieaosed by liie rotatiuD of the eami arotmd its ^jom),
and portiT lo like high teur^ieratnre of the earth's suiisoe in io«r Jaeti^
mdes, whidi causes tine air in oontaet with it to erpaud at the rate
ol^j^tifiteTohmieat ^92*rahr- (« •pi^CeaacL) for ererr increase of J*
^ James ?i1he ohwrv«d thai, in Sooth Tittoia Laoi^ iat. 7^^ -^
'^ Qlaiaiker iiae actaiuefi & iiel^ flf SCHTl; ft. iit a \is31ofnL
28 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
barometric pressure rarely exceeded 29 inches, whereas in the torrid
zone it averages about 80 inches.
Temperature of the Atmosphere. — When ascending the side of
a mountain-chain, the traveller feels the cold increasing perceptibly
in proportion to his elevation ; and should the chain be sufficiently
lofly, he will find tiie summit covered with perennial snow. If the
ascent is made within the tropics, this difference of temperature
arising from elevation is beautifully represented to the eye by a cor-
responding succession of climatic zones, each of which is occupied
by a fauna and flora peculiar to itself, but quite analogous to the
succession of zones, with their respective faunas and floras, that is
traversed when proceeding from the equator to either pole. This
beautiful phenomenon, of which the Andes and Himalaya afford the
most striking examples, depends on the fact that any change in the
density of the atmosphere is uniformly accompanied by a corre-
sponding change in its temperature. When a gaseous body expands,
a portion of its heat becomes latent, and the amount of heat re-
quired to raise it to any given temperature increases the more the
gas expands. If there be no source of heat from which this addi-
tional quantity can be obtained, the gas will cool during expansion,
by a portion of its free heat becoming latent. Generally speaking,
the thermometer sinks 1** of Fahr. for every 300 feet of elevation
for the first mile above the surface, but the rate is influenced by many
causes. For higher elevations no regular law has been ascertained.
Winds. — ^When the air is put in motion by any cause, a wind is
produced; and no cause so powerfully contributes to such motion
as local changes of temperature, arising from the uneqiial degree in
which portions of the earth's surface are heated by the solar rays.
In order to obtain a clear notion of the nature and direction of
winds, it will be necessary to leave out of view, for the time,
the various inequalities of the earth's surface, and to regard it as
uniformly spherical. In tropical regions, where the sun is always
vertical at noon, his rays fall perpendicularly on the surface, and
consequently with a far greater heating power than if they came
down slantingly, as in the temperate and frigid zones. The heated
surface communicates its own temperature to the stratum of air in
contact with it, causing the latter to expand, and, with a diminished
density, to ascend through a higher stratum, supported by which it
flows off towards the nearest cold region, its place meanwhile being sup*
plied by other currents proceeding from adjacent cold regions. Hence
we should expect that at any point on the surface in the northern
hemisphere, northern winds (that is, winds from the north) would
prevail throughout the year; while everywhere in the southern
hemisphere they would blow incessantly from the south. And, were
the earth at rest, and its surface wholly land or water, such would
be the actual direction of the winds throughout the year. But the
earth rotates on its axis from west to east every twenty-four hours,
its equatorial parts movins at the rate of 1000 miles per hour,
while at the poles the surface remains at rest. Hence, in passing
from the higher latitudes towards the equator, the cold currents of
I
I
I
TliE ATMOSPHERE. 29
air arrive progressiTely at regions of increaBcJ rotntory Telocity ;
and aa tlier cannot keep pace vith this increase of mution, tbey
neoesaai-ily lag behind, and form curronta flowing In a direction,
opposite to tlie rotsition of tlie globe, ot fram etut to vtut; and tiros,
by the combined efTectB ot the rotBtion of the globe and the difference
of temperature at its surface, the northern and aoiithem currents
are deflected and modified, so as to become respectively the per-
manent north-easterly and south ■ easterly currents, farming the
roagoificent phenomenon of the Trade-Vlnds. These winds extend,
\riuL occasionnl interruptions and. modificntiong, Irom the i-iciolty of
the eqiaator to the 28tb or 30th parallel, K. and S. — the limit vary-
ing accolding to the sun's northern or southern declination. Their
action is most regular in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans ; bat their
influence ia neatralised in the vicinity of continents and Isive
islands by the currents that ars generated on the land. In the
Indian Ocean and aouth'Gastem Asia, the trnde-wincla imdergo
remarkable modifi cations, changing their direction at certain seasons
of the year, and hence called Monaoona. These winds prevail over
a tract extending from lat. 7° S. to the Tropic of Cancer, and from
the E. coast of Africa to Japan, Siheria, and the W. Pscifio Ocean.
They blow for six months of the year in one direction, and for the
other six in an opposite one ; the change occurring about the ISth
April and the ISth October. On the north side of the equator the
HTK monsoon prevails, mth little variation, from October to April ;
tihile from April to October it ia replaced by the S.W. monsoon.
In the W. part of the Indian Ocean south of the equator the
S.W. monsoon blows from October to April, constituting the rainy
season; while from April to October the S.E, monsoon holds sway,
and forma tie dry season. The last-named monsoon may be con-
aidered as identical with the S.E. trade-wind. In general, the mon-
soons blow towards the continent during summer, and in an opposite
direction in winter. They regulate the alternations ot the wet and
dry seasons throughout south-eastern j*sia — the rainy season of
theW. coast of India corresponding with the prevalence of the S.W.
monsoon, and that of the £. coast with the S.E. monsoon. They
are also of great importance to commerce, for by them a ship may
he wafted to a distant port, where she nmaina IJll the monsoon
changes, and is then aided hy it home again.
Zima ot Calms and Vaiiabla Winds, — In the Atlantic and Pacilic
oceans, immediately nnder the equator, where the N.E and S.E.
trade-winds approach each other, there occurs a zone of calms and
variable winds; there being a calm when the opposing winds wholly
neutralise each other, and a wind, which is usually from the east,
when either predominates. This zone varies in breadth from 150 to
COO mOes, according to the season of the jsar, and is perpetually
shifting its position. In March and April it extends from lat. 7° N.
to 2° H. ; in July and August from 7 N. to 12° N. ; thus ranging
over 10° of latitude. As each of the trade-winds has traversed a
great extent of ocean before arriving at the equator, it becomes
highly charged with vapour; and hence this zone is characterised hj
30 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
constant precipitation, the rain falling at irregular intervals and at
all hours of the day. The heat is great, and thunderstorms are
frequent ; and perhaps there is no part of the ocean more dreaded by
mariners than the zone of calms and variables.
Region of S.W. and N.W. Winds. — We have seen that the heated
air of the Torrid Zone, forced upwards by colder and denser cur-
rents, finds its way to the Frigid Zones. On quitting the tropics it
begins to cool, and consequently to descend, arriving at the surface
about the 30th parallel of latitude in both hemispheres. Were the
earth stationary, and were there, also, no opposing current from
the polar regions, it is obvious that south winds would prevail over
the entire N. Temperate Zone, and north winds over the S. Tempe-
rate Zone. But the earth rotates from west to east, and the wind,
on its way from the tropics to the poles, is ever arriving at zones
of surface possessed of less rotatory velocity than itself; and it
will, therefore, so far as this cause is concerned, manifest itself as a
west wind. Combining, now, both these causes, the resultant effect
is that in the N. Temperate Zone S. W. winds must prevail, while in
the S. Temperate Zone N.W. winds will predominate. Both these
\vinds, however, are subject to great irregularities, mainly owing to
their being affected by the great polar currents that are ever pro-
ceeding from the poles to the equator. The winds which result mom
such collisions must necessarily take a Tnean direction, depending on
the relative force of the opposing currents; but this direction,
though very variable, is chiefly westerly. - In the North Atlantic
they are chiefly from the S.W. ; and the effect is, that a sailing
vessel which takes forty days from Liverpool to New York can
make its return voyage in twenty-three days. South of the equa-
tor, between the parallels of 40° and 50" S., the winds are pretty
regular, being generally W.N. W.; while in the N. Frigid Zone no
regular succession has been observed, but northern winds are the
most frequent.
Land and Sea Breezes. — On islands and near the shores of the
continents, especially in warm and tropical regions, the wind during
the da)'^ blows from the sea, while during the night it pursues a
contrary direction. After the explanations given above, the cause
of this becomes sufficiently obvious. Tho sea and the land are
very unequally heated by the solar beams. About sunrise and sun-
set the temperature of both is nearly equal, and there is consequently
no wind either way; but shortly after sunrise the land becomes
warmer than the water, in consequence of the more powerful action
of the solar rays; the temperature of the stratum of air next the
surface is increased and its density lessened ; it must therefore
ascend to the upper regions of the atmosphere, leaving behind a
vacuum, which is immediately occupied by colder and denser air
from the ocean. Thus is originated a sea-breeze^ which attains its
greatest velocity at the period of the maximum heat of the day, and
gradually declines towards evening. During night, when the tem-
perature of the sea exceeds that of the land, the current of air must
necessarily flow in an opposite direction, aod produce what is called
the land-breeze.
THE ATMOSPUEKE. 31
The Vapour of Water ana tta Prodncta.— The quiintity of vn-pQUt
u] Ihe atmosphere, whicb is always very small, varies with tlie teni-
poratare, lieing greater when the temperature is high, and smaller
when it is low. Sir John Leslie Bhowed, by numerous experiments,
that the air can hold the IQOth part of its own weight of vapour iu
_^Hii£penaiou when its temperKture is et 32° l^'ahr. ; the 80tb part of its
freight at the temperature of G9°; the 40th part at 86°; the 20th
BbKt at 113°] and the 10th part at 140°. Seas, rivers, lakes, and
Enoist grouud are the sources from which the vapour iu the atmo-
Htthere emanates. When water is thus passing mna the liquid into
HLe gaseous or invisible form, it is said to evaporate. Evaporation
^pakas place at all temperatures, and is caused chieBy by the aetieii
K>f wiuile and of the solar heat on the surface of the earth ; and the
■iiore intense this action is, the greater becomes the quantity of
Fanoisture that rises into the atmosphere. When the air has received
M mnch vaponr as it is capable of holding in the inviaibte form, at
any given temperature, it is said to be sataratfd. Should any more
vapour enter it at this temperature, or should its temperature bs re-
duced to any exteaC, the supeCBhundant vapour instantly becomes
visible, and aaaumes the form of mist or clouds, or is precipitated as
dew, hoar-frost. Tain, snow, or hail. Should the reduction of tem-
perature take place at a considerable elevation above the surface of
the earth, by means of a cold current of air coming into contact with
a wnrmer one already at the point of saturation, donda will he the
form which the superabundant vapour will assume ; but if the re-
duction takes place at a lower level, so that the clond rests on the
pround instead of Boating in the upper regions of the atmosphere.
It is called a tOg or nil«t. Clouds and mist are identical in their
nature, and only dilfer in resjiect to elevation ; for in each of them
^e rapour, formerly invisible, is supposed to pass into the form
of minnte, visible globules, which, from being hollow within, are
possessed of such buoyancj as to be capable of floating in the atmo-
rohare. When the sntfaoe of the ground has been reduced by radia-
tion, BO that the air in contact with it falls helow its point of saturation,
H pintioit of the vapour contained iu the latter becomes condensed,
and aasumes the form of dew ; and when the radiation baa proceed^i
BO for as to reduce the surface below the freezing-point, lunr-frOEt
is the product. The quantity of dew, however, which is deposited
on any given object depends not only on. its temperature, hut iu a
great measure also on the nature of its materials, its texture, and the
roughness or smoothness of its surface. Thus, white metala, stones,
and wood, are found comparatively dry, living plaiits of every form
are copiaoaly laden with dew : substances having a close testure are
unfavourable to its formation, while those that are loosely com-
pacted, as cloth, wool, down, cotton, &c., are highly favourable;
and those surfaces which part with their heat least readily, as, for
Example, polished metals, contract the least dew ; while those that
port vrili their heat moat readily — viz., roughened or painted sur-
faces, contract the most Wlien the tem)ierBture that has led to the
fonoation of the minute hollow vesicles of which a cloud conaiata has
been reduced still lower, the vesii'lea become larger
32 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
in twos and threes ; and ultimately, by reason of their densi^jind
increased gravity, fall to the ground in large drops of raliL When
the vesicles have been exposed to an intensely cold current of air,
they are congealed or solidified into minute, icy crystals ; and when
many of these collect together, they usually assume a liighly sym-
metrical and beautiful shape before descending to the earth in the
form of flakes of snow. Captain Scoresby, during his Arctic voyages,
observed nearly a hundred different forms of snow-flakes, many of
which were extremely beautiful. Should the snow-flakes, in descend-
ing towards the surface, pass through a warm stratum of air, they
melt and become rain-drops ; and, on the other hand, should the
rain-drops, while descending, pass through a stratum of very cold air,
they are converted into hailstones.
IMstribution of Rain. — Kain falls very unequally in different re-
gions of the globe, but in general the greatest quantity of rain falls
in warm climates, as evaporation proceeds there more rapidly than in
cold and temperate regions. The following generalisations, which can
only be regarded as rough approximations, will be found useful : —
1. Bain is more abundant in tropical regions than under higher lati-
tudes ; but the number of rainy days is greater the farther the place is
from the equator. The annual average of rain between the tropics is
about 96 in., and the number of rainy days is only 80 ; while in the two
temperate zones the average annual fall is only 87 inches, but the number
of days on which rain falls varies fi*om 64, in the N. of Syria, to 169 at
St Petersburg. 2. The annual amount of rain decreases in ascendine
from low plains to elevated plateaux. 3. On the contrary, the amount
of rain increases in ascending from plains to the rugged slopes of moun-
tain-chains. Thus, while at Paris only 20 inches of rain nill annually,
upwards of tlurice that quantity falls on the sides of the Great St Ber-
nard; and in England the quantity that falls in the mountainous dis-
tricts is more than double that of the less elevated portions of the country.
4. The amount of rain decreases as we proceed from the shores of conti-
nents towards their interior ; thus, while on the W. coast of Ireland, Nor-
way, and Portugal, the annual average is 47, 80, and 111 inches, respect-
ively, in central and eastern Europe it is only 15 inches. There are important
exceptions, however, to this rule, arising from the direction and position
of mountain-chains, and from the character of the winds (whether dry or
humid) to which any given place is exposed. For example, one side of a
mountain-chain may be humid, while the other is comparatively rainless.
The Andes in South America, the mountains of Norway, and Mount
Atlas in North Africa, afford striking examples. 5. Within the tropics,
the eastern coasts of the continents, owing to their exposure to the trade-
winds, are more humid than the western ; while in the temperate zone
their toestem, sides, from being exposed to westerly winds charged with
moisture— received in their passage across the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans
— are more humid than the eastern.
5. Climate. — By the climate of a place is meant the prevail-
ing character of its weather, or all those states and changes of
its atmosphere which sensibly affect the organs of plants and
animals. The peculiarities of climate are mainly attributable
to the following causes : —
1. Latitude. — This determines the amount of solar heat which the
CUMATB. 33
f tf"«e enjow— tMcIi unannt dep«]>da, not meni; on t^« IniirtU i>(
tiiBe it ia omtuiiiooilj eiposvd to th« solar rays, bnt npccially nn
th«diracliDnartheixfa«lieo th« sun is in the mcridiui, tiettvcsii
iba tn^Hca tha solar an descend lertically at noon, and halioa juv-
dnee tfaair noi-iminn eOect ; bat the more mnota the plaoa la tVum
the torrid nma, the nys dosceud mora and mora slmtinsly. SI. tl*-
■nam. — The more Blefated any place Ja, the lonor ia ita tenipor*.
tan ; and a change of level of oulj a fon icet will diminish tlie teui<
perstore of the place as much as a change of latitude amounting to
many miles. In the tonid Kane an ascent of 300 foot alnha tha
thermometer 1° Fahi. ; bat the rote is not nnilorm aa the ascent i*
coDlinned — less than 300 feet beinc safficient for reducing the tatii-
peratore anotber de^ce. A smaller elevation will also aulfico for
producing this effect in higher latitudes. By continuing the nsceiit
in any latitude, ne at length arrive at what is called the now-Ua*,
or the Umlt of peremilal congelation. This line attains its maxl.
mum elevation between the tropics, andgradually descends — tlioilgll
at a rate not yet exactly ascertained — as it proceeds to the poles, In
the Antarctic regions it reaches the sea-level between the fl7tli and
Tlat parallel; but in tha north frigid zone it is more than douhtCnl
whether it touches the seb at all: for hare the greater drynoHS of the
rJimate and the perpetual day of summer occnsion the compute disip>
pearance of the snow, though the mean annual tetnpentun! Unalow »x
zero (Fahr.) The height ot the anow-line is not regulated exclusively
by the degree of latitude ; but depends very much on the cxpnaurn
of the place, the character of the prevailing winds, and on the dfl|itli
of Ihesnow tbat hasfaUen during winter. Nonaof tliemountaluM if
the British Mea attain the height of the anow-line; but Den Nevie,
the highest of them, wbnse height is tlOS feet, approaches it very
closely, aa it generally retains the snow in t)ie deeper ravines all tiia
year round. 3. Slopo or Aspect at noon greatly affects the elimato
of a country, especially in the tflmpemte zone. If the slope ia towards
the son at noon, the raya of that luminary foil more directly on the
nu&ce, and therefore produce a grmter effect than if the place ia
level ; while, on the other hand, if the surface inclines towards tha
nort^ the contrary eSect is produced. Thus, in Siberia and British
Americ*:, where the slope is northward, as indicated by the direction
of the riven^ the climate ia incomparably more rigorous than in the
BritiA Isles and ScaDdinavia, tnough situated between the saue
psalldsof ktitnile. In the south o[ Siberia mercoc? freezes in
winter; lAereai in Ireland the myrtle grows in the open air. Even
'~ " IS tocali^ the greatest diversity of climate prevails or """ "
oopente nim of a mAontajn-range. Thns, on the southern slopes of
ue Al(« of the Talaui tbevioeattainsto ita utmost perfection, while
dMlWidwra sHop* is densely covered witli ice and snow. 4. The
-mJiT In teapeet to Laige Tracts of Land ot Water.
!E of the ocean is more equable than that of the
■g u^ iflntid hj the action of the solar lays and by
Heoee; tkimwh the agency of the winds, those countries
wHA HC wtw<f< BMZ m ocean are leu sabject to tiie eitremea
34 PHYSICAL GEOGBAPHY.
of heat and cold than other countries under the same latitude, situ-
ated in the interior of continents. Thus London eiyoys a milder
winter and a cooler summer than Paris, which is 2° 42' of latitude
farther south. In the northern hemisphere a country is rendered
hotter by having a large tract of land to the south and sea to the
north, but cooler when these relations are reversed. 6. Other im-
portant elements of climate, such as the prevalence of partlcalar
winds, proximity to ocean-currents, the annual taM of rain, and the
direction and relative position of mountain-clialns, together with
the nature of tlie soil and the degree of cultivation to which it has
been subjected, have for the most part been treated of in previous
sections of this work, and need not here be resumed.
Isothermal Lines and dlmatlc Zones. — As the temperature of any
given place depends on a multitude of causes besides latitude, it is
obvious that the old designations of torrid, temperate^ and frigid
zones, bounded by the tropics and the polar circles, do not ade-
quately express the temperature, and far less the general climatic
character, of the different parts of the earth's surface. Humboldt
and others have accordingly substituted other lines, instead of the
parallels, as the true boundaries of climatic zones — viz., ItothermcU,
Isocheimenal, and laotheral lines. The mean annual temperature of
any given place may be readily ascertained by means of the thermo-
meter ; and imaginary lines connecting together all the places in
the same hemisj^ere, having the same mean annual temperature^
are called Isotherms. The Isocheimenals are similar lines connect-
ing places that have the same winter temperature, and the Isotheral
lines are those drawn between places having the same summer tem^
perature. These lines of equal temperature approximate, more or
less, to the direction of the equator, though they are nowhere
parallel to it. They diverge from it more in the northern than in
the southern hemisphere, and greatly more in high than in low lati-
tudes. The hottest portion of the earth's surface is an oval-shaped
tract in East Africa, extending from Lake Tchad to Mecca and the
Strait of Babelmandeb, having a mean annual temperature of 81";
and the coldest, so far as yet ascertained, is a long narrow belt in the
Arctic Ocean, midway between Behring Strait and the North Pole,
and extending from Melville Island, in the direction of New Siberia,
with an average temperature of 0' Fahr. It appears, therefore, that
the hottest region is not under the equator, nor the coldest under
the pole ; and that all the lines of equal temperature in the northern
hemisphere attain their highest latitude in the eastern side of the
Atlantic Ocean — owing, no doubt, to the high temperature of the
Gulf Stream, which flows northward along the western shores of
Europe. By means of these Isotherms eacn hemisphere is divided
by the meteorologist into six climatic zones, named respectively the
hot or equatorial, the warm, mUd, cool, cold, sjid. frigid or polar zone.
The Equatorial Zone extends on both sides of the equator, is bounded
by the isotherms of 77*, and embraces Central America, the West India
Islands, a portion of South America, all Africa between the Atlas chain
and the 15th degree of S. latitude, and the north of Australia. The
CUXATE.
35
is boimded on the soufh hy the equatorial zone, and on the
north by the isotherm of 59% which, in the New World, Basses throneh
San Fnmcisco and Gajte Hatteras ; and, in the Old Worlo, through tne
north of Spain, Borne, GktUipoli, tiie north off Asia Minor, the south of
the Caspian, Lake Koko-Nor, the mouth of the Hoang-Ho, and the
capital of Japan. The WM Zone is bounded on the south bv the warm
zone, and on the north by the isotherm of 41", which passes tnrouffh the
Aleutian Islands, Sitka, a little south of Lake Superior, througn the
centre of Kova Scotia; and, in the Old World, through Bergen,
Christiania, Stockholm, Riga, Moscow, and Orenbui^. The Cool Zone ia
bounded on the north by the isotherm of 82"; whidi, in the New World,
passes Cape Bomanzoff, Cumberland House, and the southern extremity
of James Bay, south of Nain in Labrador, and north of Cape Farewell in
Greenland; and, in the Old World, through the north of Iceland, Ham-
merfest, head of the Gulf of Bothnia, Archansel, Tobolsk, and to the
south of Lake Baikal. The Cold Zone is bounded on the north by the
isotherm of 5°, which passes through the centre of the North American
Archipelago, nort^ of Greenland, and through the extreme north of
Siberia. And, lastly, the Polar Zone, whose southern limit is the
isotherm of 5", embraces all the remainder of the Arctic regions.
Table of Mean Temperatnres. — In order to illustrate this subject
more fully, we subjoin a table of the mean a/nmuU, mean lointer,
and mean gummer temperature of a number of the most im-
I>ortant cities in the world.
^"
Mean
Mean —
Mean-
Cities.
Lat.
annual
Dec. Jan.
June, July,
temp.
Feb.
Aug.
London, ....
51*' 82'N.
50-.1
8r.3
63-. 8
Edinburgh, .
SS'^ST'
47.2
37.9
67.6
Dublin, . .
53** 21'
50.1
41.9
69.8
Paris, . . .
48''50'
51.5
88.2
64.9
Marseilles, .
43«17'
67.
45.
72.0
Lisbon^ . .
88-41'
61.4
62.5
70.94
Madrid, .
40-25'
67.9
42.
74.5
Gibraltar, .
se-y
64.5
65.3
73.8
Borne, .
41-54'
59.5
45.2
74.2
Constantinopl
e, .
41-
56.3
40.
72.
Brussels, . .
50-52'
50.4
87.4
64.
Vienna, . .
48-13'
50.
31.5
68.
Berlin, . .
52-31'
48.3
33.6
64.2
Copenhagen,
55-40'
46.56
81.31
62.7
Stockholm,
51^' 17'
42-27
26.04
60.43
St Petezsbm:!
J
59*58'
88.7
17.2
60.8
Moscow, .
52-42'
39.6
14.7
64.9
Yakutsk, .
CI- 58'
13.9
36.7
58.7
Pekin, . .
.S9-53'
54.8
26.7
8L1
C^BtOO, .
23-12'
70.4
53.3
84.
1-15'
80.8
79.4
91.4
Cakstta, . . . .
•
22-36'
90.
72.25
86-72
36
PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Mean
Mean —
Mean —
Cities.
Lat.
annual
Dec. Jan.
June, July,
teinp.
Feb.
Aug.
Madras, ....
IS'' 5'
82*.9
77*.2
86*.7
Bombay, . ,
18'' 57'
81.27
77.44
82.84
Cabool, . . .
34'' 63'
68.
41.
83.
Jerusalem, . .
SI'' 47'
63.4
48.6
74.7
Cairo, . . .
30* 3'
72.2
58.52
85.1
Tunis, ....
36*46'
68.7
55.76
83.
Sierra Leone,
8*28'
79.
79.
77.
Timbuctoo, . .
17* 48'
79.
68.
83.
Melville I., .
75* 40^
1.24
—28.45
37.08
Nain, . . .
56* 25'
27.82
3.66
47.9
Montreal, . . .
45* 31'
45.8
17.8
71.4
Halifax, . .
44* 38'
42.9
23.6
62.3
New York, . .
41*6'
51.7
31.4
72.3
New Orleans, ,
. 30*
69.8
65.8
82.04
Mexico, . . .
19* 25'
60.6
53.64
65.23
Havannah, . ,
23* 10'
77.9
82.4
73.
Mozambique, .
15* 2' S
78.
79.
73.
Cape Towu, . .
Quito, ....
34* 56'
64.7
70.
68.3
0*13'
73.31
77.6
59.71
Kio de Ja,neiro, ,
22* 57'
74.1
78.2
69.2
Melbourne, . .
37* 49
57.6
65.2
49.
Sydney, . . .
33*54'
62.7
69.6
54.
AucklaTid, . ,
36*52'
60.3
68.7
63.3
6. Mineralogy. — ^The sixty-five constituent elements form-
ing the earth's crust are, in general, characterised by a strong
affinity for each other, disposing them to form compound bodies,
each of which possesses properties widely different from those
of its constituents. These compounds are termed minerals, and
the science which treats of their forms, composition, and other
properties, is called Mineralogy.
Number of Minerals. — The number of mineral species at present
recognised by science somewhat exceeds five hundred, many of them
having, in addition, a great number of varieties. The mineral
species, however, found on our globe, is exceedingly small when com-
pared with the vast number of species in the animal and vegetable
kingdoms. All the species above named have been arranged by
mineralogists into seven ordexs and thirty-seven families. Theso
orders, with their respective families, are as follows: 1. Oxidised
StoneSf comprising 12 families — quartz, felspar, scapolite, haloid
stones, leucite, zeolites, mica, hornblende, clays, garnet, gems, and
metallic stones. 2. Saline Stones, 6 families — calc-spar, fluor-spar,
heavy-spar, gypsum, rock-salt, 3. Saline Ores, 3 families — sparry
iron ores, copper salts, lead salts. 4. Oxidised Ores, 5 families —
iron ores, tin-stone, manganese ores, red copper ores, white antimony
ores. 6. Native Metals, forming only one family. 6. Sulphuretted
MINERALOGY. 37
itelals, Q faiiiilioa — iron jiyrites, galeuti, grey antimony nre, grey
' copper ore, blende, ruby blende. 7. fijlammahles, S lamiliea — aul-
L phur, diamnnd, eoal, mineral resins, inllammable salta.
I Fomu of BOneraU. — Miners! subatancea occw in natnre in two
diatinet modes of aggremtion— amorphaua and crj-atalliaed. When,
the pirtiolaa of the mineral are merely collected together, without
Bibibitiog any regukrity of atructure, it is called UTnorp/toug ; bat
ihould the mineral possess a deEuite chemical composition, together
with a regular symmetrical esternal form, it is said to be crystallised.
Generally speaking, every mineral substance, whether simple or
campoond, is found ia nature with a form peenliar to itself, and that
readily distingnishes it from all other minerals. Mapy of them,
moreover, eiist in various allied forma, and hence tho number of
nstiiraJ cryatala is fnoiraoua Mineralogists, however, have succeed-
ed iu arranging them all under abs mstenta of orystalllsatioD, to emh
of which belongs a number of forma navinc some properties in com-
mon. In every crystal there are found three rxcb, which, intersect
Rt its centre and pass through from side to side. The entire classiS-
cation of crystals depends on the relative lengths and poaitiou of
these aiea. 1. The first system is named the Segiilar or Teeeeral
Syslem (from teasera, a cube), and is ch&raeterised by three equal axes
intersecting each other at right angles. It includes the cube, the
regular octohedron, the rhombic dodecahedron, and the regular
tetrahedron. Some of the best-known minerals that assume one or
other of these forms are common salt, alum, fluor-spar, iron pyrites,
Krey oopper ore, and boracite. 2. The Quadratic or Teiragonal
Mtlem, with three axes at right angles, but one shorter or longer
than the other two. Eight principal forms, with nnmeroua varieties,
belong to this system, among which are included the first and second
tight square prisms, and the first and second right square octohedra ;
exam^es — zircon, stannic oside, and yellow pruasiete of potash. 3.
The Sexagrmal or RhajnbohedraX &yitan, with four axes, three of
which are eqnal, intersecting each other in one plane at 60°, and one
principal axis at right angles to them. It embraces the regular six-
sided prism, the regular six-sided pyramid, and the rhombohedron.
Rock-crystal, calc-spar, beryl, comndnm, graphite, and many other
minerals, assume forms belonging to this system. 4. The lihoml/ia
Sysltia, characterised by three axes, all unequal, but at right angles
to each other: its principal forms are the right octohedron with
rhombic base, and the right rhombic prism. This system comprises
□nir a few varieties of form essentially distinct, but embraces nitre,
native sulphur, topaz, and arragonite. 6. The ifonodinic or Mono-
eliBohedric Sytlem, having three unequal axes, two of which inter-
sect each other at an oblique angle, and aro cut by the third at right
angles. The forms peculiar to this system— among which is the
obSqna rhombic octohedron — approach very near to those of the
rhombio, but the inclination of the axes enables us readily to dis-
tingnish them. As eiamplea of tho numerous minerals assuming one
or other of its forme may be mentioned sulphur deposited from
(iuion, sodium carbonate, and borax. 6. The TTiolinia or Tnclino-
38 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
hedric, with tLree axes, all unequal and all oblique. This is the
least regular of all the systems, and departs the most widely from
symmetry of form. The doubly-oblique octohedron and the doubly-
oblique prism are the leading forms ; examples — copper sulphate,
boracic acid, and albite.
7. Geology. — Minerals aggregated together, so as to form
large masses, are technically called rocks. These rocks, accord-
ing to their structure, are of two kinds : either they consist of
minute particles of one and the same mineral, or of two, three,
or more different minerals aggregated together. The former
are caMed^.mplej the latter mixed rocks. Thus, for instance,
marble, consisting of nothing but grains of carbonate of lime,
is a simple rock; while gramtef on the contrary, which is made
up of small crystals of quartz, felspar, and mica, is a mixed
rock. The component parts of a rock are either crystallised
together, or united by a non-crystalline cement, in the same
manner as mortar binas the stones of a wall. In many rocks
the cohesion is very great, as for instance in greenstone ; while
in others it is but slight, as in sandstone, gravel, coal, &c. As
compared with the vast variety of minerals, the number of
distinct rocks is exceedingly small. They are also pretty uni-
formly distributed over the globe, while none of them is
peculiar to any particular country. Thus, while the plants and
animals of tropical regions differ exceedingly from those of the
frigid zone, the materials which form the mountain-ranges, as
well as the pebbles along the sea-shore, are everywhere the
same. Notwithstanding, however, this general uniformity, there
is considerable local variety, depending on the geological char-
acter of the place. Thus a traveller setting out from London,
either to Berwick or Land's End, will find the character of the
rocks continually varying as he proceeds from county to county ;
and before he arrives at nis destination, he will have passed in
review almost every variety of rock in the geological scale. In
like maimer, when a considerable section ot the earth's crust is
exposed to view — as in sea-cliffs, quarries, mines, and railway
cuttings — a great variety of rocks is discernible ; but they may
be all reduced to two principal kinds. They are either arranged
in beds or layers, and hence known as stratified rocks; or they
are found in shapeless, indeterminate masses, destitute of any
such arrangement, and therefore called unstratified,
Unstratlfied Rocks. — ^The unstratified rocks are also termed igne-
tms, being regarded as having been formed by the agency of fire, at
a time when the temperature of the earth's crust was immeasurably
higher than at present. Most geologists are of opinion that our
planet was in an incandescent state in the earlier stages of its exist-
I
ence, inst ns the tran and fiied stars aw by some anpposed to be at
the present ilay. In the course of a^tes, according totLishypotheaiB,
the eiterior portion gradually cooled down, and the materials of
which it couBiated, preriously in a molten atate, came by demea to
asanme the consolidated form which the crust of the earth now
prssants, while thn interior still retains ita former intense heat,
whatever view we may form of this hypotheais, there can ha EO
doubt of the fact, that the lower we penetrate into the bowels of the
earth the temperature gradnally increases. A thermometer placed
in any locality, only 3 feet below the aarface of the earth, no longer
indicates the chnngea of the daily temperature, bat merely those of
the Tear. Again, at a depth of 55 feet, it indicates everywhere and
at all times the same temperature, which ia neither affected by the
hottest summer nor by the coldest winter. Below Ciis depth, it has
been found that a rise of 1 decree of Fahr. takes place for every EO or
C6 feet of descent.* Calculating at this rate of increase, a tempera-
ture of 2100° Fahr. would he reached at adepthof 25 miles, sufficient
to keep in fusion such rocks sa basalt, greenstone, and porphyry ; at a
depth of 8B miles the temperature would be 3272°, eufiicient to malt
iron ; and at a depth of 5i miles, a beat of 4892° would prevail — a
temperature at which all known subatancea would pass into the
liquid or molten form. The phenomena of hot springs, rolcanoea,
and earthqoakes, atTord other and independent evidence of the in-
tense heat prevailing in the interior of our planet. The igneous
Tflcks have everywhere the appearance of having existed at a former
period in a molten state ; and the nnnieroua varieties of beautiful
crystals found osBociated with them are a striking testimony of
their having cooled down with great slowneaa and regularity. Cfene-
rally speaking, they occupy a lower position in the crust than tha
aqneons ; though they are often seen overlying the latter, or aepatat-
ing the strata of which they consist, or forcing their way tlrough
those strata in veins, rents, and fissares. They are usually divided
iato three principal kinda — granitic, irappean, and volcanic. The
first of these is reckoned the oldest, as it is generally found under-
lying or aaaoctated with the oldest series of the stratmed rocks ; the
second is considered more recent in ita origin, because occurring for
the moat part among the secondary and tertiary forniationa ; and the
, third, as the neweat of all, being generally found aaaociated n-ith
Utilise modem formations which have been deposited since theter-
I * " It roUowi from thli (mportant remit ttist beat mnat be oonatantly ronlnE
r ftom the iolerior ot thB C4rt£ tfl lli Burfnce, wlionca tt eicapea intg spade ; and
bence the temperitnreot the whole earth nm8t be cooling from year to rear. Blr
W. TbonwoD of aiBigDwlms cilcalated that during the Luiee.OOMOO j^eui, the
ratoofUicroaie of Umpsreture under ground hu dimialahed (rem I' for every
10 foet to 1- for erary SO feel, of descent, an at present; and adds, tbut if thii
•cHonimd been gnliig on with anji approach to nnifgrmlty fbr 29,000,000,(100
reus, the amount of heat loat out of the earth woold be more tban enough to
melt a miu of sorftce-mck eqnal in bulk to the whole earth, and In BOO.OOO.OM
40 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
tiary era. The following are the principal rocks belonging to these
three varieties, beginning with the lowest : —
Granitic: Common granite (consisting of small regular crystals of
quartz, felspar, and mica), porphyry or porphyritic granite, syenite,
proto^e, pegmatite, hornblende rock, primitive greenstone, serpen*
tine, felspathic rock, &c.
Tbafpean : Basalt, greenstone or dolerite, clinkstone, compact felspar,
hometone, pitchstone, claystone, amygdaloid, trap-tuff, &c.
VoLOANio : Lava, trachyte, obsidian, pumice, pearlstone, tufa, scoriae,
palagonite, sulphur, &c.
Igneous rocks are very widely distributed, and play a most
important part in the physical aspect of many countries. The
mightiest mountain-ranges on the earth's surface are mainly
formed of the granitic series, as the Alps, Pyrenees, Ural, and
Grampian Mountains in Europe ; the Himalayas in Asia ; the
Abyssinian Mountains in Africa ; and the Andes in South
America. The prevailing scenery is dreary and monotonous,
and the soil barren and inhospitable. But the economic uses
of granitic rocks are numerous and varied. They form exceed-
ingly durable building - stones, admirably fitted for bridjges,
lighthouses, docks, fortresses, and as road and street matermls.
When polished they are generally highly ornamental, and are
therefore employed for obelisks, tombstones, and pillars. The
industrial products of the trap-rocks are also numerous, though
not of equal importance. Some basalts and ^eenstones make
good building-stone, but the difficulty of dressmg them into the
required shape prevents their extensive use. X^early all the
sulphur of commerce is derived from volcanic regions ; pumice
has long been used as a polishing or rubbing stone; while many
of the lavas yield precious stones, and others are metalliferous.
Stratified Bocks. — ^These are divided by geologists into two
peat series — the Orj-^stalline or Non-fossiliferous, and the Fossil-
iferous. The former, — also called Metamorphic rocks, — are
usually found immediately above the granitic, separating them
from the fossiliferous strata above, and embrace the foflowing
members — viz., gneiss, mica-slate, clay-slate, hornblende-slate,
talc-slate, actynolite-slate, chlorite-slate, quartz-rock, and pri-
mary limestone. Although gneiss usually occupies the lowest
place in the series, these rocks do not follow any invariable
order, and not imfrequently one or more of them is wanting.
The materials of these strata appear to have been originally de-
posited by water in the form oi sediment, and to have been sub-
sequently so altered by subterranean heat as to assume their
present crystalline texture. At the time of their original for-
mation they were probably replete with organic remains similar
to the fossiliferous systems above them ; but the intense heat pro-
GEOLOGY. 41
ceeding from the nnderlymg granite !ias destroyed every vestige
of oi^nio matter. In regionB where the Metamorphic rocka Se
near the aurface, the Boenery in usually bold, rugged, luid pic-
tureaqiie, and the soil unprodnctive ; but fllate, marble, and
building-stone are obtained in theiD, and not unfrequently tin,
copper, lead, silver, and gold,
FosBiLiT'EEOUB Strata — FalEeontologr. — By carefully
Btudying the fossiliferoua strata above mentioned, we obtain,
moat important information regarding the earliest stages of the
earth's existence — information, in faet, nowhere else to be found.
We learn, for example, that our world had arrived at a hoary
antiquitj before the creation of man ; that it was not then a
barren, untenanted wilderness, hut the happy home of innu-
merable races of living creatniea, which, once and again, were
swept away by great natural oatastrophea, and replaced by other
orders of plants and animals, higher in tjie scale of being than
their predeceasora, and more nearly appoxjmating in beauty of
form and utility to the many races, animal and vegetable, which
are now placed under man's domain. This knowledge is partly
derived &om the lithological character and immense depth of
these strata, each of which, in ita turn, muat have been slowly
deposited by the waters of seas, lahea, or rivers ; but principally
&om the conntless petrified remains of the enimala and planta
that had their abode in the waters or on the land, at the period
of their formation. The branch of geology which treats of these
organic remains ia termed Palaeontology (from palaioi, ancient,
anta, beings, and If^oa, a description), signifying a description
of ancient beings. The long-continued study of the fissiliferona
strata of many coiuitriea has enabled geologists to arrange the
entire series into ten distinct and weLl-deiined systems, each of
which differs essentially from all the others, both as recards its
litholo^cal conatituentH and ita petrified organisms. Tiieae ten
BystemB are further grouped into three great series, or periotk —
vit., the PaIuEOZOIC, or moat ancient ; the Mesozoic, or seoond-
arys and the CAiNozorc, or moat recent. The diagram (p. 51)
indicates at a glance the precise place in the geological scale
where each higher order of organised existence made its £rst
appearance.
J. TlB Lanrentlsn ayrtsm. — This, the niost ancient of all Itnown
fossiliferoua deposits, drnvesi ita name from the river St Law-
rence, in the haain of which it occnpiea an immeusa area. Sir W.
Logan, of the Causdian Geological Survey, regards these rocka as the
moat ancient on the American continent, and as the enoiraleDts of
the oldtat gneiss of Scotland and Scan iliua via. In the geological
scale they occupy a lower position than the Camhiian rocka of
Kortb Wales, and consist of nighly crystalline gneissoid and honv-
42 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
blendic schists, -which, in some localities, attain a thickness of 30,000
feet. Principal Dawson, the eminent Canadian geologist, has re-
cently (1868) detected in the lower formation of these rocks what
may justly be regarded as the earliest indication of animal life on our
globe. This consists of a foraminifer, named by him EozoGn Carta-
dense, a humble Zoophyte, and one of the very lowest types of the
animal kingdom. This zoophyte has since been detected in Bohemia,
in strata underlying the Silurian rocks.
2. Tlie Cambrian Syvtem.— (From Carnbria^ the ancient name of
Wales), a term employed by Professor Sedgwick to designate the
lowest fossiliferous rocks in North Wales. They consist mainly of
slaty, gritty, and silicious beds of immense thickness (from 20, 000
to 80,000 feet), which are regarded as the geological equivalents of
the fossiliferous schists of Wicklow, the lower greywacke of Dum-
fries, the Northern Highlands of Scotland, the alum -schists of
Sweden, and the Huronian sandstone of America. A deeper interest
attaches to the Cambrian and Laurentian systems than to any other
in the geological scale, on account of their containing the petrified
remains of the earliest living inhabitants of our planet. These con-
sist of FucoiDS, a humble genus of marine plants ; of Zoophytes
(Oldhamia), and Graptolites, the lowest forms of animal life; of
brachyopodous Molluscs (lingula and terebratula) ; and of Trilo-
bites (olenus and paradoxides), a remarkable family of Crustaceans
peculiar to the Palaeozoic period.
3. The Silurian Ssrstem, so called on account of its huge develop-
ment in South-Eastem Wales, a locality once inhabited by the iS'i7-
ureSy an ancient British tribe. Here it amounts to about 8000 feet
in thickness, forming several distinct formations, which differ essen-
tially in the character of their organic remains. The prodigious de-
velopment of fossils has no parallel in the underlying formations.
In the British Isles' alone, in 1867, the Silurian strata contained
1194 recognised species, only 8 of which were plants. In a small
tract around Prague in Bohemia, the indefatigable M. Barrande enu-
merates no fewer than 2735 species ; while Dr Bigsby, in his * The-
saurus Siluricus, * a work of immense industry and research, enumerates
7553 well-defined species as belonging to all countries. By inspect-
ing this great work it will be perceived that in the Silurian age of
the world's history all the classes of the invertebrate division of the
animal kingdom are well represented, but that Molluscs, Echino-
dermata, and especially Trilobites, existed in vast numbers. But
what imparts the deepest interest to the Silurian system is that it
affords the earliest evidence both of vertebrated animals and of land-
plants. These occur in the uppermost strata of the Ludlow rocks,
and immediately underlying the lowest beds of the Devonian system.
The vertebrata consist of Fishes of the genus Pteraspia. They are
few in number (11 species only having yet been found in British
rocks), small in size, and of the lowest order. They are all cartila-
ginous fishes, like the skate and dog-fish — for fishes with ossified
vertebrae are not found till we arrive at the Devonian strata. The
land-plants are also of the humblest rank, belonging to the family
OEOLOGT. 43
I Lycopodiacea:, and allied to our present club-mossea. "Very recently
fi^ea have also been detected in the Lower Siluriaa fartaation. Sil-
urian strata are eirteosivelT dereloped in many countries, especially
in Wales, the Soutti of Scotland, Bohemia. Russia, Scaadinavia,
Nori:h and Soath America, and AaBtralia. The Teina that trareriis
the Bystem are OBiially metalliferons, yielding mercury, copper, lend,
■ilvor, and gold. It ia mainly from rocks lielongins to tliia system tlmt
the pi'odi^ous quantitiea of gold recently brought to light in Aua-
tralia, California, the Ural Mountains, and other loealitiea, have been
obtained. Thoy also yield flagstones, roofing- alatea, and limestone
for mortar and manure. In Silurian districts, the scenery ia usually
Taried and picturesque, less ahrunt and bold than in Metamorphic
regions, yet move diversified by hill and dale tLan Secondary strata ;
but in KoBsia, south of the G. of Finlaod,t1ieyfann wide level plains,
or low plateaux. Sir Boderick Impey Morchison, the Prince of British,
geolog^ta, has been the chief investigator of the Silurian system,
4. Tbe Devonian or Old Bed Sandstone SyBtem overlies the
Silurian, separating it from the Carboniferous system. Geologists
are far from bein^ nt one as to the number of formations into which
it is divisible ; but Hugh Miller, its most illusti'ious explorer,
divides it into three — Lower, Middle, and Upper. It is lai^ly de-
veloped in Scotland, South Wales, Devonshire, Belgium, fiussia, ani
North America, where it usually conaiata of aaucccasion of sandstones,
alternating with layers of sandy shale and beds of concretionary lime-
atones. The Sora of the system consists partly of msriDe, bntchieily
of land plants, of a gi'eatly higher order than those found in the up-
permost beds of the Silurian. Upwards of ten years ago, the author
of this Manual discovered several huge calamites in the lowermost
strata of the Old Ked Sandstone of Aberdeenshire, previously re-
gBjded OS unfoasiliferous. Conc-lwaring trees— plants as high in the
Buale of nature as the pines sad Cedars of the present day — were
found by Miller, long previously, in the same formation at Cromarty ;
while Dr Dawson has recently discovered no fewer than eighty-two
species of laud-plants in tlie Devonian strata of Nova Scotia. To
inch an extent, indeed, did lBnd-]ilants abound in the Devonian age.,
that in some localities, as at Point Gasp*, in Canada, thin seams of
bituminous coal have been discovered. Perhaps the moat beautiful
species of the Devonian flora was the Adiantiles Hibemkue, a Iree-
fem, obtained from the yellow sandstone series of Ireland and Rox-
burfthshire. The fauna of the system displays an equal development;
for thongh the Trilobites, which so pre-eminently characterised the
Silurian system, have passed their meridian, other cnistaceajia of a
still higher order appear in their room. The most remarkable of
these is the PCerygotaf j4Tigliciu, a gigantic lobster-like crustacesu,
from 4 to fl feet long, found in the Devonian rocks of Hereford, For-
far, and Ulbster in Coithneas. A few placoid fislies were found in
the Silurian system, but here fishes exist in vast numbers and of two
distinct ordere — Placoids and Ganoids — the latter with osseous ver-
tebrse and dermal skeletons. Among the most characteristic foritiR
are Oachui, Cvplutlw/a^, Coccaeteua, Aetcmlepk, DipUrue, and Holop-
44 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
tychius. Insects make their first appearance here, but the reptU*
ian remains of Elgin, formerly supposed to belong to this system,
are now assigned to the Trias. In 1856, the total number of fossil
species belonging to British Devonian rocks amounted to only 300 ;
but the number has since been greatly increased. In the Khenish
and Belgian rocks alone, 450 species have been discovered ; while
the total number of species known in 1867 was 682. The minerals
of the system are mainly building-stone of inferior colour and dura-
bility, paving-slabs of excellent quality, which are extensively ex-
ported from Caithness and Forfarshire ; while to the trap-rocks of
the system the lapidary is indebted for his agates, jaspers, and Scotch
pebbles. The scenery is generally flat and tame, though occasionally
Iiighly diversified ; and the soil, owing to its porousness, is usually
well adapted for agriculture.
6. Tbe CaTbonlferouB System, so called from the profusion of
vegetable matter {carbon) which it contains, consists in like manner
of three formations — the Lower Coal-Measures or Carboniferous
Slates, the Mountain Limestone, and the Upper or true Coid-Mea-
sures. Not unfrequently one of the members is wanting, and some-
times beds of one formation alternate with those of another. In
some parts of Scotland the Lower Coal-Measures yield great quanti-
ties of serviceable coal ; while in Ireland, where the formation is so
enormously developed, little coal is found. Wherever this forma-
tion exists, it presents indications of having been deposited in fresh
water, in estuaries, or in inland seas. The Mountain Limestone,
^ain, is essentially a marine deposit, and, by the peculiar character
of its fossils, forms the most easily recognised formation in the
earth's crust The Upper Coal-Measures, like the Lower, are mainly
of lacustrine origin, and consist of alternations of sandstone, coal,
shale, ironstone, clay, and impure limestone. The minerals of this
formation, especially its coal and iron, form an inexhaustible source
of wealth to those countries where, as in Britain, they most exten-
sively prevail. In Britain, especially, they mightily contribute to
our power and eminence amongst neighbouring nations. The flora
of the system is the most abundant and gigantic that ever appeared
on the earth's surface — consisting of coniferous trees of immense size,
huge palms, tree-terns, lenidodendra, calamites, sigillarise, equiseta,
club-mosses, and other allied forms. Wherever any of tiie Carbon-
iferous formations occurs, these crowd eveiy bed of shale, and form
the materials of which every seam of coal consists. Considering,
then, that the Coal-Measures exist in numerous lands and in all lati-
tudes, and that these plants all belong to a tropical vegetation, the
obvious inference is, that during the deposition of the Carboniferous
strata a hot moist climate prevailed over the entire surface of the
globe. The fauna is less peculiar than the flora, but it equally marks
distinct progress in organic development. Here sauroid fishes, and
Reptiles of the Batrachian or lowest order, appear for the first
time.* The number of plants hitherto discovered in the whole sys-
* While these sheets are passing throni^h the press, there is a report in the
newspapers that Sir T. P. Barcas of Newcastle has detected, in the Northamber-
I
GEOLOGY. i5
3;
tsm amoants fully to 1700, of wliiali Rbout one-tenth are plianero-
{(amous. In British strata alone, the fauna, iu 1B67, iiumbered 1100
species, Carboniferona strata cover lar^^ portions of t^e British
Isles. In England the; extend from Bertiy to Berwick, but the
Upper Coal-Measatas are chiefly confined to South Wales and the
T^iey of ths IVne. In Scotland they form a broad belt across the
coiratiy from the coast of Ayrshire to Fife. Ireland is not rich in
coal, ul her coal-fields being situated in the Carboniferous limestone,
which covers the central plain. On the Continent the principal
localities are the north of France, Belgium, Germany, Frussia, Aus-
tria, and the south of Russia. In extra-Earopeau countries (for
which see under the diflarent continents) the main localities are,
Hindostan, the coasta of Chili and Pent, the lathmiu of Panama,
Nova Scotia, and especially the United States of America, where the
Coal- Measures occupy an area of 600,001) sq^uare miles. The econn-
mic importance of the Carboniferous system canoot be overratod. ] t
furnishes nearly all the coal consumed iu every civilised country.
In the British lales alone about 100,000,000 tons of this valuable
mineral is dug annually- Almost equally important is the iron,
which is ustiBlIy asaociated with the coal. Other products of the
-—^ m are, petroleura, asphalt, naphtha, paraffliie-oil copperas, ochre.
; the ores of lead, zinc, and antimony | marble, limestone, and
building-stone of the finest quality. The scenery, with the excep-
tion of some limestone districts, is generally tame and iinpicturesi^ue,
while the sod is often cold and only moderately fertile.
8. The Fennlaii SyBtsm, so named from its enormoos development
in the govEmment of Perm, in Russia, forms the uppermost member
of the great PalKozoio aeriee of rocka. It was formerly known as the
Saliferoos or Kew Red Sandstone, in opposition to the Devonian or
Old Bed, from which it is separated by the Carboniferous systeni.
It consists of two formations in England — Red Sandstone and Mag-
neaian Limestone — hut of three m Central Eussia. The organio
remains ara neitlier nnweroua nor very remarkable, but approximate
far mora closely to those of tha Carboniferous system below, than to
those of the overlying Triaaaic, The flora, consietin^ of land and
marine plants, amounts to 183 species, embraciog fucoids, calamltes,
coniferous trees, and silicified trunks of tree-ferns. The fauns
amounts to 350 fossil speciea, including £3 fishes- The Trilobites
and other higher forms of crustacean life have disappeared, la
common nith the other Paleozoic systems, the fishes are all charac-
terised by heleracaval or uneqaaUj-lobed tails ; whereaa in all the
XBteraa above the Permian the hovtocereal or equally-Iobad tail pre-
iminates — a form which is nearly uaitorsal in the 8000 speciea
now existing. Reptiles are more numerooa than in the Carhonifcr-
OQs ayatem, and uow cm brace Sachiank as well as Batrachians — f.g.,
the paUcomunu, proCoroaaurus. and tkccodonloaauna, all of which
are true air-breatbiDg and land-inhabiting reptiles. The minerals
land Coal-MeiinrM, the Jkbt of a true nummal I The efftot of tJiis dlscowir, ([
*g» (Of- 1B6B). This, however, has not Jet been tone (Jan. 187T),
46 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
embrace excellent building-stones, limestone, ^(ypsum, lithographic
stone, and copper, and occasionally veins of galena and sulphuret of
zinc. Permian strata are known to prevail in the north and midland
counties of England, in the whole of eastern Russia, and over con-
siderable areas in Ireland, France, Germany, and America. The
physical aspect of Permian districts is by no means destitute of beauty
and variety, though the scenery is sometimes tame and uninviting,
and the soil well adapted for pasture and woodland.
7. The Triassio System derives its name from the fact that in
Germany, where the system is highly developed, it consists of three
well-defined formations — ^the Burder SandstHn, the Jduschelkalkf and
the Keuper — the middle formation being wanting in England. With
these formations we commence, on our upward march, the second
great division of the fossiliferous strata, and hence named the Meso-
ZOIC. At the close of the Permian system, an infinitely greater
change took place in organic life than that which marked tne ascent
at any previous stage. All the species and most of the genera of
the earlier races have now disappeared, and are replaced in tne Trias
by an entirely new series, the types of which are continued to the
base of the Tertiary. Nature has entered on a new cycle, and every-
where the humbler forms of organic life have given place to forms
more highly organised. It is to this system, and not to the Devo-
nian, that we must now refer the remarkable reptiles, the Telerpeton,
Staganolepis, and Hyperadapedon of the Elgin Sandstone. In the
Trias formations on the Connecticut river, in New England, the
footprints of no fewer than 23 species of Birds are enumerated by
Dr Hitchcock, together with Chelonians, Batrachians, and other
reptiles. In the Trias also occur the earliest traces of Mammals.
In 1847, Professor Plieninger discovered in the upper beds of the
keuper formation, in WUrtemberg, the molar teeth and bones of a
small marsupial animal named Microlestes ardiquvs. In England,
the animal remains in the Trias are not very numerous (omy 61
species) ; but on the Continent, one single formation (the Muschel-
kalk) has already yielded 222 species, and the St Cassian beds* 744
species. The flora embraces equisetums, calamites, ferns, cycada-
ceous and coniferous plants, but is very limited. In England and
Ireland this system is the great repository of rock-salt, the layers of
which, in Cheshire, in some places attain a thickness of from 75
to 100 feet. It also yields sandstone for building purposes, calcare-
ous flagstones, limestones, and valuable beds of gypsum. The
scenery of the Trias is usually tame and monotonous, and the soil
better adapted for pastoral than agricultural purposes.
8. The Oolitic System is highly developed in England, where it con-
sists of three very distinct formations — tne Lias, Oolite, and Wealden
— and stretches slantingly across the country from Dorsetshire to
Yorkshire. It is evident from the character of the imbedded organ-
isms that the first two are mariTie formations, while the last must
have been deposited from fresh water. The characteristic fossils of.
the lAas — the lowest of the three — are cycadaceous plants, which
occupy a middle position between ferns and coniferous trees,, and
I
GEOLOGY. 47
which here make thcdr first appparaccH. The fauna wears a aiiigulac
aspects owing to the vast number of aminoniteB, faiJleraBites, gry-
phes, and cuttle -ftsbea which it embraces. Beptilea also attain
their higbeat development in thia formation, contkining, as it does,
those gigootio and highly characteristic forms, the Ichtbyosaama and
Pledosaurua. In 1864, the fosail fauna of this formation, as devel-
oped in the British Isles, contained, accordiDg to Professor Eamsay
4K ths London University, 467 species. The flora of the Oolite ta
tha same year comprised 128 species — consisting, for the most part,
of cyoadaEere, fetus, eqitisetaceee, and pines, with the new orders —
■cypresses, yews, dammaras, thujas, and acrew-pinas. Sucb, indeed,
was the abuadaace of vegetation in the Oolitic age, that not nnfre-
QUently it exhibita seams of workable coal, as at Brora in Sutberland-
ahire, and Richmond in Virginia. Ita faaua was pecaliarlj riuh and
Taded, as is evident from uie fact that in the British rocks alone
no fewer than 11S3 species were known to geologists in 1S64. Tho
marsupial or pouched auimals, which Brat appeared in the Trias,
now existed if grant numbers. They were allied to the living opos-
■um and kangaroo of the Australian continent, and formed a con-
necting link between birds and tha placental or true Mammalia,
which do not appear till neat the end of the Wealden age. The
IfMWen derives ita name from the "wealds"or "wolds'' of Suffolk,
because it prevails extensively in that country. Unlike the two
tlnderlfing formationB, the Wealden is essentially a fresh-water
I formatian, and the only one of that nature occurring within tha
I limits of the Mesozoic series. Its organic remains differ very widely
[ from those of the Lisa and Oolite— rconaisting of " the spoils of tliH
■ river and the land, not of tha sea. Among its most characteristic
plants may be named the tphejiopteris gratis (a sort of fern), leaves
of com/enE and cgmdaceiB, and fruits resembling those of palma. Of
theoumeroua reptiles belonging to tha formation ore — the Iguaaodon,
a gigantic herbivorous animal, and the Fterodacti/l, or Hying reptile,
wbich somewhat reaembled a baL But by far the most interesting
fossils of the Weatden are fonnd in its uppermost strata, near the
base of the Cretaceous system — being the bones and teeth of Placen-
tal or Trite M^UHals, which mark another stage in the great
march of creation. Including the Purbeck beds, the Wealdon for-
mation of tho British Isles have yielded 253 fossil species, including
23 plants, SO fishes, and 29 reptiles. The minerals of the Oolitic aya-
tem are of considerable importance, consisting of building, paving,
roofiugand tile stones, alum, marble, coal, and fuller's earth. Both
the Lias and Oolitic Limestones are largely quarried for mortar and
hydraulic cement, the latter also furnishing the best description of
I lithographic stones. The scensry of Oolitic districts is varied and
I pleasing, but wants the boldness and abruptness of Metamorphio
1 tegions. The soil is osually dry and fertile, except the Lias and
F Wealden clays, which in dry seasons are stiff and intractable.
' S. Tlia Oretaceoni Sjetixa, the highest in the great Hesozoio
■eriea of rooks, derives ita name from the chalk (l^t. erela) that
forms the main ingredient in its composition. It is a marine depcEiiE,
48 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
and embraces two well-defined formations — ^the Greensand and the
Chalk. The ^ora is not abundant, there being only 12 species
known in British rocks, and even these usually consist of (uifted
and imperfect fragments. They exhibit, however, a great era in
the progress of terrestrial vegetation, for here first occur the re-
mains of Exogenous or Dicotyledonous Trees — i.6:, trees having
a separable bark, distinct concentric circles, increasing at their circum-
ference, the solidity diminishing from the centre outwards, the pith
enclosed in a longitudinal canal, and possessed of medullary rays.
The fauna is rich, varied, and beautifully preserved. Nearly all the
types of life are strictly and peculiarly Mesozoic. * * Of the 521 species
Imown in our Upper Chalk, all, with the exception of TerebratiUa
captU-serpentia and a few foraminifera, have apparentlv become
extinct during that vast period that elapsed between the close of the
Cretaceous and the beginning of the Eocene epoch in England." —
(Professor Ramsay.) Of the four orders into which fishes are divided,
two appear for the first time in Cretaceous rocks — viz.,CTENOiDsand
Cycloids. Reptiles, though still the dormant class of animals, have
now passed their meridian ; but turtles, pterodactyles, and oviparous
saurians are not unfrequent. Bones of birds have been detected in
N. America, but the formerly supposed Qtutdrumarums Mammids
first appear in the Eocene. Altogether, 1362 species of fossil animals
were Known to exist in British rocks in 1864, of which 89 were
fishes and 31 reptiles. Cretaceous strata cover extensive areas in the
south of England, in France, Germany, the United States, and
Vancouver iSand, in all of which the scenery is distinguished by
the rounded outlines of the hills and valleys, which afford excellent
pasturage. The origin of the chalk-beds has led to much discussion,
but it IS now believed to be derived from the myriads of coralline
zoophytes and foraminifera "mth. which the seas of the period
abounded. The industrial products are comparatively unimportant,
consisting chiefly of preparations of chalk and flint. The former,
which consists of carbonate of lime, is employed by the farmer,
bricklayer, and plasterer ; while the latter, when calcined, is largely
used in the manufacture of flint-glass and porcelain ware.
10. Tlie Tertiary SyBtem, embraces three formations — ^the Lower,
Middle, and Upper — or, as they are more commonly called (with
reference to the number of species which they respectively con-
tain in common with our existing fauna). Eocene, Miocene, and
Pliocene. These consist of vast and varied deposits — fluviatile,
lacustrine, marine, and volcanic — usually found resting on one or
other of the formations of the Cretaceous system. It appears evi-
dent that during their deposition important changes tooK place in
the relative level of sea and land ; that volcanic agency was de-
veloped on a vast and magnificent scale ; that the portion of Europe
now forming the British Isles was the site of enormous lakes, which
at the present day have their best analogues in the vast fresh-water
lakes of Canada ; and that, during the same epoch, such a gradual
refrigeration of climate took place in European countries as to admit
of the existence of plants and animals similar to, or identical with.
GEOLOGY. 49
• those now Existiog in lliat continent. On entering tlio Tertmij
■trata the palieontologist finds that orguiie nature ha^ uudersone a
ccmplete cuanj^e — that everj plant and animal with which he h«-
c«ine acquainted irhen itudjing the SeccndaTj rocks has passed
anny, and that he has now entered on a wholly new stage of exist-
ence, Never before, during Uie pre-AdimichiHtoiyof our earth, did
BO thorough ond total a change take place in the fiorn and fauna of
the globe (see under " Trisssic Syatem," p. 46). The flora ia dia-
tinguished from that of the older epochs by the abundance of
dicotyledonous trees (oaks, beeches, elms, ftc), a few leaves and
fragments only of which have as yet been detected in the Cretaceous
TOCKB, and even these are of wholly different species. The mono-
cotyledons, especially jialms, also 'become greatly more nomerons ;
while the conifers, previously ao abundant, no longer ocrnpy a
prominent place. In the Goccna formation atone, in which between
200 and 300 fosail plnnta have heen detected, no fewer than one-half
are dicotyledons. The fauna of the ayatem is equally characteristic
It was pre-eminently the age of mammalia ; for, though manimals,
both marsupial and placental, are knowu to hare existed in the
Seeondary ages, only a few vestiges of either occur in formations
lower down than the Eocene. In this single formation — that to
which the London and Paris basins belong — no fewer than 25 genera
of this class of vertebrata were known in 1656, Altogether, upwards
of 100 genera of mammals occur in the Tertiary rocks ; and, what
ii Kill more remarkable, all the existine orders of the class are
represented, though unequally. The pochydennata were especially
nnmerouB, embracing the uncouth jialieothe-ium, aaoplotherium, da-
uot/ieriujn, maetodon, and mammoth. It was among the pachyder-
mata of the Paris basin that the illustrious Cuvier etfected those
wonderful restorations which, in the beginning of this century, gave
such an impetus to palEeontoIogy. Several species of birds, chiefly
from the Eocene of Paris, have been described, the most remarkable
of which is the gigantic gastoraia Parisiensii, a fonn intermediate
between the wading and aqnatio orders. The reptiles resemble the
esisting crocodile, Bligator, and gavial. The fishes embrace the four
orders — plaeoids, ganoids, cycloids, and ctenoids — but appear to be
almost without esceptiou of diflerent species from those now peopling
the ocean. In England, Tertiary strata cover nearly all the basin of
the Thames, as also Hampshire and the northern part of the Isle of
Wight, but they scarcely exist in ScotUnd and Ireland, For their
distribntion in Southern Eurojie see at p. BO. The indastrial pro-
duct* are various, comprising building- stone, marble, limestone,
(ffpsum, brick-clay, potter's clay, pipe-clay, miUstonos, lignite or
brown coal," and amber,
II. The FleUtDoetLB or Boulder Cliur.— It would appear that,
after the deposition of the Eocene, Pliocene, and Pliocene fcrma-
tiona, a great change took place in all the higher latitudes of the
1 northern hemisphere in regard to the relative distribution of sea and
'»nd; that a large portion of Europe and of the British Isles was
p»dllal!y submerged beneath the waters, the summits c[ the loftiot
50 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
moontam-raiiges appearing as islands in mid-ocean ; that a corre-
sponding elevation of land oocnrred simultaneously in the Arctic
regions, accompanied by a change iu the direction of the great ocean-
currents, and by a great diminution of temperature over all North-
em Europe ; that enormous icebergs — ^laden with gravel, sand, and
gigantic boulders — were annually disengaged from the Arctic shores,
which, floating southwards, discharged their miscellaneous contents
over tiie recently-submerged lands ; that this submergence and ac-
companying change of temperature caused the destruction of by far
the greater number of the plants and animals which existed in North
Europe in the Miocene and Pliocene ages — ^their places being sup-
plied, however, to some extent, by the fauna and nora now peculiar
to more northern latitudes ; that after this state of things had con-
tinued for ages, the submeiged lands of North Europe and the Bri-
tish Isles were again gradually elevated to their present level ; and
that, finally, the glaci^ epoch having passed away, a new flora and
fauna, suited to &e new conditions, made their appearance — ^many
of the species of which c-ontinue to exist to the present day. The
organic remains of the boulder clay are by no means numerous. In
the British Isles they occur chiefly in the Norwich Crag, Lanca-
shire, North Wales, Isle of Man, the banks of the Clyde, Caitliness,
and in the north and east of Ireland. On the Contment the main
localities are Scandinavia, Russia, and North Germany ; while
similar deposits are found in Sicily, North America, Patagonia, and
Tierra del Fuego. The Pleistocene beds contain very few recognis-
able remains of plants, but some of the species still exist among car
aboriginal trees; a^ for example, the Scotch fir and the common
birch. Others continue to hold tiieir place in the forests of North-
western Europe ; as Abies exceUa, or the Norwegian spruce, which is
found rooted in the Norwich Crag. In general^ the coniferae alone
appear to have flourished during the enture era of the boulder clay.
Tbe fossil fiinna is more abundant, but consists for the most part of
mollusca; though in the fresh-water beds numerous remains of
mammals occur, the greater number of which have become extinct.
The total number of marine testacea in the Norwich Crag does not
exceed 76 species, of which only one-tenth are extinct ; while of the
14 fresh- water species associated with them, all appear to be now
living, either in the British seas, the Boreal, or the Arctic r^ons.
No fewer than 87 species of mammals are enxmierated by Professor
Owen as occurring in the caves of the British Isles ; and of these, he
says, 18 species have become extinct, while the remaining 19 con-
tinue to survive in the British archipelago, or on the Continent.
The entire fauna of the glacial beds, as given by Dr Edward Forbes
in the new edition of the * Physical Atlas,' amounts to 170 species.
These are chiefly mollusca, but the number includes several birds,
and not a few extinct mammals ; but the horse, goat, ox, red deer,
badger, fox, wild-cat, and several other species known to have existed
in l£e Pliocene era, survived the storms of the Pleistocene, and now
form a living bridge connecting the present epoch with the immea-
surable ages of the past
CEOLOGT.
SUCCESSION OF LIFR
^^T^^H
— t
TRIAS ^^
SkUR AN REPTILES
EIEVONIAN F-
Fi«CH AH EEPTILES.
tfiuRO O riSHES.
N FEHOUS TREES-
PALMS, TREE-FERNS
MOLLUSCS.
COH NODE RM ATA.
CAMBRIAN
52 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY,
12. Prehistorlo Formation.— A deeper interest attftches to this
formation than to any other in the entire geological scale. Here are
found the earliest traces of the existence of Man on the earth — as pile-
dwellings, tree canoes, flint arrow - heads and other stone imple-
ments manufactured by human hands. No clear line of demarca-
tion separates this formation from the Pleistocene, and in the present
state of science it cannot be positively determined in what century
or millennium those implements were fabricated. There can be little
doubt, however, of the vast antiquity of some of them, as proven by
Sir Charles Lyell and others. The antiquity of the human species,
as thus indicated, no doubt conflicts with the chronology of u sher,
founded on our modem Hebrew text. In the matter of antediluvian
chronology, however, the Hebrew text has in all probability been
vitiated, as we have shown at large in a separate work (* Facts and
Dates,' p. 62-69). The Septuagint translation — ^a translation made
from an uncorrupted text, and sanctioned by our Lord and His apos-
tles— assigns to our race an antiquity of nearly 1500 years more tnan
Usher does. Science is giving its emphatic verdict, in this particolary
in favour of the Septuacint ; and tnough the extended cnronology
may fail in meeting all the difficulties of the case, it will certainly
meet many of them. In the mean time we cordially adopt the words
of a recent brilliant writer when he says, "The theology of science
is at present in its infancy, and consequently liable to multitudes of
errors. When the theolo^n shall have become more conversant with
Grod's works, and the scientiflc man more of a theologian, we shall
obtain more light "—(* Old Bones,* by Rev. W. S. Symondi F.G.S.)
8. Botany. — Physical Geography does not concern itself with
the structure and classiflcation of plants, but conflnes its atten-
tion to their existing number, to the various modes by which
they have been disseminated, to the external causes which affect
their distribution, and to the more or less limited areas to which
the different species and families are confined.
Number of Speoles. — The number of species presently known
to botanists probably exceeds 120,000 ; but the progress of dis-
covery is so rapid, and the parts of the earth's surface still unin-
vestigated so extensive, that 200,000 appears to be a very moderate
calculation of the number of species actually existing. Theophrastus
(B.C. 390) knew only 600 ; Plmy (a.d. 79) increased the number to
1000 ; the naturalists of the middle ages contented themselves with
a description of 1400 ; the celebrated Linnseus, in 1753, swelled the
number to 6988, and in 1762, to 8800; while Wildenow, in 1807,
raised the number to 20,000. During the present century the pro-
gress of the science has been remarkable. In the year 1820, ^e
number of species in the herbarium of the Jardin des Plantes, at
Paris, was estimated at 66,000. In 1847 the collection of M. Deles-
sert, of the same city, contained about 86,000 speciea In 1844,
Steudal, the German botanist, estimated the total number of known
forms at 96,000 ; while in 1869 the number of recognised species was
120,000, of which 103,000 were flowering, and 17,000 flowerless.
I
JFIuin^ldt estimates the total numlier of existing plants as at liiast
200,000.
Aatlqolt? of Spedes. — Ths geologist can demonstnits that all
the apeciaa of the eiiatiag flora were not creafed sinraltaneoasly,
but were introduced at successive stages 33 the surface and teia-
peratura of the earth became fitted for their reception. Tliey are,
therefore, of very dilFerent degrees of antiquity ; for while they all
appear to have been danizena of the earth ever since the creation of
man, most of them were ushered into being prior to the time in
which our existing continents acquired their present configuration ;
■uid a very few of them can be traced back to the earliest Tertiary
a^s. Those siieciea are reckoned the oldest which combine simpli-
(dty of organisation with great width of distribution, as our commou
i^rassea and rushes, together with mosses, lichens, ^ngi, and ferns ;
while those that are confined to small areas — notwithatandine the
contiguity of land having a suitahle climate, and their being endowed
with the requisite means of transport — are consideredthe moat recent.
Oantrea ol CreatloiL^Most people seem to be of opinion that all,
or nearly all, the plants found in any particular locality, were oti-
oinally created there. The great SwFdlsh botanist, on the other
ABnd, believed that *'"■ *'«"">" :*'^''=' "' -n *i>^ .>i-;=t,'v.ri t.i.>nt., «■<.»>
uraated in some oni
•Uy disseminated o ._ .._. ..._.... _._ .._
be adduced by modem science to show that each of these hypotheses
ii equally antenahle ; and most naturalists are now of opiuiou that
there were numerous tpteifie tentrei, situated in numerous and
widely-aeporated localities, each centre being the birthplace of one
apeoiM, or assemblage of species, which continues to grow there in
greater peifection tMn in any other region to which, by the various
trsnaporting agents known to exist, it was subse(]^uently wafted.
Hodee of DlflBemlnation. — Many plants are possessed of moons by
which they can diffuse themselves over areas more or loss extensive.
Some have seeds with winged or feathery appendages, which enable
them to float on the air ; other seeds are so small as to be borne
by winds to very distant locahtiea ; very many are trsuaported by
Tivers. streams, marine currents, and even icebergs, to very remote
regtona, where, if the soil and climate be suitable, they take root
•nd propagate their species; while not a few adhere to the hairy
coatioga of migratory animals, or, entering into the gizzards of birds
of passage, retain their vitality after being voided by them in distant
localities. The agency of man has also, m all ages, been very effec-
tual in the dissemination of plants ; for example, the passage of
armies from one country to another, commerce by sea with foreign
naliona, the discovery of previously unknown lands, and the plant-
ing of colonies in lustant regions. But all these agencies, singly
or combined, cannot adequately account for the present distribution
of the species, without supposing a multiplicity of original specific
54 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
that the individual species are confined to particular portions of the
surface characterised hy a certain temperature and other climatie
conditions. The area within which a gLven plant prevails is called
its TiaMiationf or area of distribution. In or near the centre of this
area it attains its highest development ; it degenerates when far
removed from this centre ; and when transported beyond the limits
of the area it languishes and dies. Though each species of plant
has a nature peculiar to itself^ the soil, temperature, and climatic
conditions of the various portions of the earth's surface are so vari-
ous, that each species finds for itself a x)erfectly suitable habitation.
These habitations, or areas of distribution, are of all sizes ; embrac-
ing in some cases a large section of a continent, or of several con-
tinents, and being limited in others to the merest speck of land.
For example, a considerable number of plants of Northern Europe
occurs also in Liberia and British Kortn America ; some British
species are found at high elevations on the Himalaya Mountains ;
and one species — the Epilobium tetragonum — ^is common to Britain^
Canada, and Tierra del Fuego. On the other hand, the Cape of
Good Hope, California, and certain regions of the Andes, have re-
spectively certain species peculiar to themselves ; as also Madeira,
tne Canaries, St Helena, the Sandwich and Society Islands, &c.
The same species of plant seldom occurs in widely-separated coun-
tries, however closely the soil and climate of both may approximate ;
but similar species of the same genus are, in such circumstances, rarely
absent, and these are spoken of by botanists as representative speeies.
Thus the heaths of Europe are represented by other species oi the
genus Erica in S. Africa ; and the violets of North America represent
those of Britain, which are specifically different.
Botanical Regions. — ^Various attempts have been made by botanists
to divide the globe into certain well-defined regions, founded on their
characteristic vegetation. Wildenow, De Candolle, Meyen, and espe-
cially Schouw, have distinguished themselves in this department of
science. The last-named naturalist, about thirty years ago, proposed
to divide the earth's surface into what he calls ** Phy to-geographic
re^ons.'' These, according to him, are 25 in number, and charac-
terised as follows : 1. At least one-half of the species found in each
region must be peculiar to it 2. One-fourth of the genera must be
peculiar to it, or at least be more prevalent there than elsewhere.
8. Some of the orders must either be peculiar to it, or reach their
maximum in it. Each of the different regions receives three separate
designations : the first indicating its botanical character ; the second
its geographical position ; while the third is named after some
eminent botanist.
1. Region of Mosses and Saxifrages, the Arctic- Alpine flora, or Wahl-
enberg's region ; embracing all the countries situated within the Arctic
Circle, together with the higher elevations of the mountain-ranges of W.
and S. Europe. 2. Beef on qf UmheWferm aaidCrvjciferce, North-European
and North- Asiatic, or Linnaeus's re^pn ; embracing that large portion of
the area of the Old World which lies between the Polar Circle and lat.
i5° N., and between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. 8. Region. ^
n^.,,^, .^u fj.^.,.0, 4. Region of AMert and Solidagoi, Nortliern
Noiih.Americain, or Michaoi'a r^on; extending fram tha Atlantic to the
Kocky MouDtams, and from lat. 35" N. to Lake Wionipeg and St Jamea
Baj. It embraces the Kreater part of Canada and the N.B. part of the
Ti-;..j o....„ c E,_-'.. ^ifagnoUiu, the S.E. North-American flora,
the remavnder of the United States lying
I. RegiuH of Caiiielliacea and Celattracta,
n.ampier'9 regioa ; embracing Japan, CoTea, a '
7. Itr^ion cf Seitammr -" •>-- --^ '
i of SAododrndroj
the Chino-JapaneKB, o:
the N.E. part of Chim
Indian flora, or Roxbn^h's
and the S. of Cliina. ° "
Wallieh's region 1 com;
from the altitude of 500010 12,000 feet. It inolndea Sinnnr, QnTwh^al)
Kninaon, Nepal, and Bholan. 9. Tin Mtdaysian jUrra, or Reinwanit'a
region ; embracing Northern Australia and the Malay Aichipelago, with
the exception of Sumatra, Java, and the &. of Borneo. 10. Jamnea
flora, or Blnme'g region ; embracing Java, Sumatra, Timor, and the S.
ofBomeo. II. Qeianie or Pott/naian flora, or Chaniisso'a region; em-
bracing all the islands of the Pacifio Ocean within the tropica, 12.
JtmoK of BaltaTnie Irea, Arabian, or Forskal'a region ; embracing the
I ^W. of Arabia, the B. of Abyssinia, S. of Persia, Beluchistan, and
"TBiadJi. 13. TheDeiert, or Delile's region; compriaing the Sahara, and
alU Arabia except the S.W. angle. 14. fUgim of Tropkat Afrita, or
pAdonson'a region ; embracing the whole af Af lica betw^ the Tropic of
^^pricamandtbe 15th deg. of N. latitude, with the exception ofEaitem
Ijttbysainia. It also includes Madagascar. 15. S^on qf Cadacta and
^ftraeea, Meiican, or Jacnuin's region; Inclndes Meiico, Central
'hnteriCB, New Granada, Eciiador, Peru, Venemiela, Guinea, and the N.
if Brazil, with tbe exception of tlie higher elevations of the mountain-
. _'. ..'. .. 16. Jt^ioJi of tie JUgilaadi o/ Mexico, or Bonplaod's xegicn ;
those parta of Meiico and Central America which have an eloratloa of
more than 6000 feet. 17. K/gioit of Cindiovce, or mtdicinai herlu, the
Andes, or Hnmboldt's region ; embracing the elevated r^ions of the
Andes, ftem 5000 to 9000 feet high, and extending southward to the
Tropic of Caprieom. 18. Region i^ EicaUoniie mui Calttolaria, or Ruiz
■nd Pavon'fl region, embraces the highest elevations of the last-nieationed
rnnee, or above BOOO feet. 19. The Wtil Indian flm-a, or Swart^'e re-
gioD : erabracingal] the islands of the Westlndies. 20. Region ijf Paltut
and Melattoataeea, Brazilian, or Marti us's region; embracmg all South
America between the Andes and the Attantio, and between tlie Tropic of
Capricorn and the 15th region. 21. Jtegwa of Art-oitatftil Composila,
Ettra-tropical South-American, or St Hilaire's region ; embracing South
America between the Tropic of Capricorn and Patagonia. 2i Pata-
oonvos or Antareiic Region, D'Urville's region; embracing Patagonia,
Tlerra del Fuego, and the Falkland Isles. 23. Region of Ulapeliig and
Xaai- "--■" ' .m-^.— -.- 1-^-. I--.-..I— .. -
qwl Bpaeridaeea, Anfttralian,
Australia and Tasmania. 25. Rtgian of Nev Zealu
eiOD ; embracing the isLinda of New Ze^and.
■ 9. Zoology. — Zoologicnl Geography ia closely allied to Botani-
Sl Gw^ptipby, being that braneh of the science which treats of
Brovrn's region; including Southern
56 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
the habitats, limits of distribution, and dispersion of animals,
as they at present exist on the globe.
lTiim1)er of Animals. — The barriers in the way of obtaining acca«
rate statistics of the number of animal species are even greater than
in the case of plants ; and naturalists accordingly vary greatly in
their estimates, not only of the probable number presently existing,
but also of the known and described species. This statement ne^
not excite surprise when we consider that many regions of the globe
remain almost wholly unknown, while others have been but imper-
fectly explored ; that whilst the habitat of plants, when once dis-
covered, can be visited and revisited by the botanist at pleasure, the
great majority of animals are endowed with the powers of locomo-
tion, and evade the pursuit of man ; that myriads of species are too
minute to be seen by the naked eye, while others are too fleet or too
formidable for being accurately observed ; that age and sex produce
such changes in their appearance as often to render it doubtful
whether or not the species are identical ; that many of them have
their home in the depths of the ocean, or conceal themselves in the
sand on the sea-shore ; while others seek shelter in the impenetrable
recesses of the forest, or in inaccessible mountain-cliffs. The num-
ber of known species of vertebrated animals, accordinj^ to Br Keith
Johnston's * Physical Atlas,' published in 1856, is as Allows : Mam-
mals, 1704 ; birds, 6226 ; reptiles, 657 ; fishes, 8000 — total,
16,587. Wagner and Waterhouse, in 1848, gave the number of
known mammals at 1967 ; birds, 8000 ; reptiles, 1600 ; and fishes,
8000 — total, 19,567. The probable number of existing Vertebrata
may therefore be estimated at about 20,000. The other divisions of
the animal kingdom are far more uncertain. Thus, while Wood-
ward, writing in 1861, gives the number of recent MoUusca at 12,000,
and the fossu species at 15,000, others maintain that no fewer than
20,000 recent species are to be found in certain existing collections.
Keferstein (in 1834) assigns 1000 as the number of known species of
Radiata, including the polypi, entozoa, acalepha, and echinoder-
mata ; while Swainson, in 1840, gives the number at 2500. But by
far the greatest discrepancy prevails in regard to the Articulata (em-
bracing annellida, Crustacea, arachnides, and insecta), some authors
stating the number at 120,000, others at 400,000, and some even as
high as 550,000, the great majority of which, however, are Insects.
Besides these, there exist innumerable hosts of infusoria or animal-
cules, a class of microscopic animals belonging to the sub-kingdom
Badiata, and found in countless numbers in vegetable infusions.
Omitting from our reckoning the insects and infusoria, of the actual
number of which we can form no probable estimate in the present
state of science, the following may betaken as a tolerable approxima-
tion to the existing number of animals : Vertebrata, 20,000 ; Mollusca,
20,000 ; Radiata, 5000 ; Articulata, 5000— total, 50,000 species. M.
Agassiz, one of the most eminent of modem naturalists, estimated, in
1850, the total number ofhnoion ipedes, including insects> at 250,000.
BUtrlbution of AnimalB. — Though animals are endowed with the
power of voluntary motion, and are therefore more capable than
ZOOLOGY. 57
F p]Ent3 of tranaporting themselves from one region to iinotlier, varioua
causes combine to limit the bcIdoI extecBion of iniUvidiial species-
Difference of climate, and tha greater or less facility of procuring
nbdsteuce, are amongst the foremost of those caQsel j while in regard
to land-animals, arms of tha sea and elevated mountain -chains pre-
sent formidable barriers to miration. In numerous instances, how-
ever, we can trace tha operation to no secondary cause, and little cnn
bo advanced beyond conjecture as to the way and manner iu which
a iaigB jiroportion of the species came to be located in the precise
legions whore they are found ; unless, as in tlie case of plants, we
assent to the doctrine of numerous caitree of creation. In no otlier
way can science satisfnctority resolve the question how quadrupeds,
for example, and other animals incapable of crossing arms of the sea,
Lave found their way to islands situated in mid-ocean ; whilst in
regions very remoto from each other, but having a similar climate,
the species, instead of being identical, are merely analogous.
Zoologloal KlnidomB. —Naturalists divide the snrface of the globe
into six zoological kingdoms, which arc subdivided into fourteen
zoological provinces. Approximately, the six kingdoms correspond
respectively with the six continents of t3ie globe — viz., Europe, Asia,
Afnca, North America, South America, and Oceania. Hor^i and
Soath America ore indeed usually comprised under one kingdom,
thus redacing the number to live ; but simplicity of arraueemeut,
and the convenience of the student, render uie other uivisiou
prefemble.
The first, or Europsan Kingdom, embraces the whole of insular
Europe, and is subdivided into three zoological provinces— vii., Atetlc,
Ctntrat, and SoKtkem /SKropt. Tlie sec^ond, or Asiatic Kihgdou, in-
cludes continental Asia, with the exception of Arabia, extends from tha
Unds ond the Volga to the Pacific, and embraces four provinces— vii.,
AMu!, CtHtral, end Tropical Asia, together with Asia Minor and Syria,
which last is designated the Transition Province, as its fauna combines
the cbaraeteristicB of Asia, Europe, and Africa. The third, or AfulCilJ
KiNGDDU, consists of but one province, which embraces the entire con-
tinent of Africa, together with Arabia, Madagascar, Bourbon, and Mau-
ritius. The OcEAKic or Acstbalian KlNaDOU embraces the wliole of
Oceania, and is subdivided into two provincss— viz.. the Malagiian,
which forms a connecting link between the Asiatic aud Australian king-
doms ; and the Melanaian, whoso fauna is of a very peculiar character.
The fifth, or North Amebioan KiNoDoa, embraces the whole of that
Pontbient noiih of the Meiicaa States, and contains two provinces, the
first of wIlIcIi comprehends Alaska, and British and Danish An^erica, and
the second tbe United States. The sixtb, or South Auekican Kino-
DOH, embraces not only tbe whole South American continent, but alau
Mexico, Central America, and the West Indies. It consists of two pro-
vinces of very unequal dimensions— viz.. Tropical America, which extends
from the north of Mexico total. 40° S. ; and .<tuirai.4nimca, embracing
Pati^nta, Tierra del I'uego, and the fUklsnd Isles.*
iclerlatlc! ,..
I of tills work, ucdei the il
58 PHYSICAL GEOORAPHY.
The following Table,* which ia adapted with modifications from
Milner's ' Doiversal Geography,' exhibits the distrihutioD of the aere-
nl ordera of Mammslia m the six zoological hingdoms . —
DlSTBIBUTION or THE MaUUALIA.
X!^,:."
.„„«.
...
.«,.
.-".-c.
•S
_....|
n
l1l
n
4
a
rf
IJ
4
n\4
3f
4
n
4
Qmidtunuma
170
ISO
1
_
-ID
■IB
M
112
_
_
7^
74
_
_
Camlvom .
.11.
T3I
S(
3-n S94
174
151 101
lil
ut
—
- *l ^
_
—
■*
R
M
371105
IDS
nqdcntlB . .
ei
1SS'12B
91
IIR
11.1
ICB
l.l .1
1»
; EJenlata . .
SB
u
_
—
s| s
4
6
1
1
SO
3
■■ni»l.ydcn„»f«
8S
IT 16
IS'
1S(
^ITi W
U
e
13
li -
"
15
!4
^
M S
16
'
"
«
«»
" "
"
Total So. or 1
1-04: iwjT
1«
W
835 Ufljlue
309 260
IIS
MS
...!■»
1=8
10. Ethkography. — Man, from the perfection ami l)eaiity of
lus bodily OTj^anieation, and from the order of time in which he
was caUecl into existence, occupies the apes of the vast pyramid
of animal life. Of all aniraala he only walks erect, his eye re-
flecting earth and sky, and his look glancing freely over tbat
world in the midst of ivhich he lives and reigns. Over hia
whole form there is an air of more than material beauty, the
reflection of a soul infinitely rich in thought and emotion ;
while by XKissessiiig an immortal spirit he is raised immeasur-
ably above material things, and separated, as by an impassable
gulf, from all other animab. In common with these, he ia, to
some extent, subject to the influence of external circumstances,
though in a less degree than an^ other species. His superior
inteUi"ence, and the pliancy of his constitution, tit him to be-
come the denizen of all countries, and all varieties of climate,
from the scorching heat of the ttcpics to the rigorous cold of
Arctic latitudes. His geographical distribution, accordingly,
differs from that of all other organic beings, and man is the only
* Tlifl Jlnt oolnm
I
ETHSOGRAPHV. 59
hue cosmopolite. Of the vast number of countries brouf;tit to
the knowledge of Europeana by modem. diaoovEry, very few
ware found uninhabited ; the principal exceptione being Ice-
land, Spitzbergen, and Novaia Zemlia ; Madeira, the Azores,
and St Helena ; the Falkland Isles, the Galapagos, some minor
groups in Polynesia, and the inhospitable legionB around the
South Pole.
Unltr of the Spedea, — JIan is of only one species, and tlie so-
called races of men are mere rarietiea of the same Bpeeies, differing
less from each other than do the varieties of many other animals ;
■s, for example, the dog, the horse, the sheep, and the domestic
fowl. Science and Revelation alike proclaim this fundamental
truth ; the one, by establishing an identity of anatomical structure
between the races, the same jieriod of gestation, the same instincts,
longevity, and diseases, the same mental and mor^ character, and
the fertility of offspring arising from intermixture of blood ; and
the other, by declanng that in one man was the germ of the whole
hninan family; that ^e myriads of men that now people the earth,
after the lapse of a hnndred and fifty generations, are all brethrra,
nnited together by the closest ties ; and that the nnirersal depravity
«iid death which have their root in the common ancestor of all, are
more than counterbalanced by the obedience and sniferings of his
fflorions Descendant, whom every human being can claim as bis
near kinsman.
Origin of Boces. — Yet in all ages and countries tlie individuals of
the human family have preseuteu numberless diTeraities of appear-
ance ; and though all are speoincally identical, evei^ member of the
family exhibits bia own proper individuality — that w to say, certain
L charaeteristicB of physical organisation and of mental disposition
■ ittiat distinguish him from every other individual of the sneciea. For
pUan is a complex being, and embraces within him a world of diverse
I elements, that rival, in their varions riches, the world of externa!
nature. These elements are capable of combination in infinitely
varied proportions. In one the soul predominates, in another tlie
body ; here the nervous system bears rule, there the arterial ; here
the affections, there the understanding. The laws and the causes,
however, that determine these combinations, are to us a secret ; for
L individuality is a mystery of life, the stamp of the Creator. This
Ciniieh, however, seems certain,— viz., tliat while the distinctive char-
f Wrter of the soul never fails te manifest itself very perceptibly in
r'tiie entire physical oipinisation— eBpecially in the form of the head
and fa the physiognomy — the influence of external nature, of the
family, of lociebr, of habit, and of education, is but of secondary
importance, temUng merely to modify the original individuality,
Yeli by a constant and unvarying repetition, carried on through a
long series of generations, even the latter inflaences may produce
very important effects; though never to the extent of eradicating
the ontlmes of this indiviiiuality, which, notwithstandine the con-
rtnnt inttrmingling of blood by marriage, x>erpetuates itself for ages
60 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
from father to son, in the same family, every member of which re-
sembles, both in temperament and physical organisation, some one
or other of his ancestors or blood relations. Accordingly we find
that, from the earliest dawn of History, mankind has been divided
into races,* and organised into nations ; and it is one of the first les-
sons of Revelation that with this division human design and human
choice had nothing Whatever to do, — that it was exclusively the work
of the Creator, with nature to aid in its accomplishment, — and that
these races and nations were distributed over the earth's surface ac-
cording to a definite plan, in which each had assigned to it its proper
part in the progress of events. £ach region, moreover, streng^thened
and modified the character of the race that was conducted into it ; and
thus national characteristics, which become more and more marked
as generations succeeded each other, attained at length such a degree
of fixedness and inflexibility as has enabled them to traverse the ages
of history, and encounter the most opposite influences, without under-
going any radical change.
Dispersion of Nations. — The precise locality in which the disper-
sion of nations originated, and the precise date at which it took
place, are not easily determined ; but there can be no doubt that we
must look for the former to Western Asia, and for the latter to the
fifth generation after the Deluge, f Asiatic Turkey, situated in the
centre of the Old World, and midway between its four great oceans,
has been twice the cradle of mankind, and still remains the region in
which the human form attains its highest perfection. Here Noah
with his family, the sole survivor of that great catastrophe which
swept away the inhabitants of the antediluvian world, took up his
destined abode ; and here his three sons — Shem, Ham, and Japhetli
^like branches cut from the same tree, took root and flourished, con-
taining within themselves the germs of the three great races, and of
all the minor varieties, that subsequently peopled the earth. The
distinctive characteristics of the ancestors were indelibly impressed
on their respective descendants: thus spiritual and religious tendencies
predominated in the offspring of Shem ; the sensual and corporeal in those
of Ham; while the nations that sprung from Japheth have been no less
remarkable for their fuller development of all tne powers of the mind.
Accordingly, when the set time for the great dispersion arrived (b.c.
2552, accurd^g to W. Osbum), Ham and Japhetn wandered far from
the ancestral home, in quest of abodes congenial to their respective
natures ; while Shem retained possession of the paternal altars, became
the custodier of the one true faith, and the ancestor of that promised
Seed of the Woman in whom all nations of the earth shall yet be
blessed. Begarding this distribution from another point of view, we
observe a curious and remarkable anomaly ; for while all the other
tvpes of animals, as also of plants, go on decreasing in perfection from
tlie equator to the poles, man presents to our view his most perfect
type at the centre of the north temperate zone, in that region of the
* For an Important modification of this statement, see ' Facts and Dates,' p. 121>
t The Hebrew Bible apparently gives the date of the Deluge as b.c. 2288 ; the
Beptuagint as 8216 ; vhue the Great Pyramid at Jeezeh indicates an almost
exact mean between them, giving it as b. a 2800.
ETHNOGRAPHir, Gl
CEueaans above nlladed to ; whereos, departing from that wgion,
whether to the nortli, aonth, or east, the types gradually lose their
rmetiy, tiU, at the remntB eitremities of tlie continents, wa tinil
moat deformed and degenerate niees.
Mnmlwr and Oharacteilitlcs of Kacei. — Modem Ethnographjr
classifies the unnieroua nations that people the globe into three
E'mary races— viz., the Cancaaian, or white and bearded race ; the
ngolian, or tawny and beardless race ; aad the Negro, or blacJt-
skinued and wooUj'haired race. These are confined to the Old
"Wgrld, and correspond, with certain linitations, to its three conti-
nental diTistons; the Caucasians occupjing nearly all Europe, south-
wettem Asia, and the north of Africa, and extending from Iceland
and the Atlantic to the Ganges and Brahnfiapntra, and from the
Arctio Cirda to the Tropic of Caprienm ; the Mongolians peopling
all the rest of Asia, together with certain isolated localities in cen-
tral and nnrtliem Europe ; and the Hegro race, the whole of conti-
nental Africa south of the Tropic of Cancer. In addition to these
there are several minor varieties, inhabiting Oceaniit and the New
World, and probably originating in the inteitnixturea and modifi-
cationa of the three primary raoe; : as the Malayans in Malaysia
and Madagascar ; the Papuans in Now Guinea and Hew Hebrides ;
the Maoris or Australians in Australasia; and the Americans, or
aboriginal inhabitants of North and South America. The more
jtromment characteristics of the principal races are the following : —
■i metrical, ot gnat
' cnpauity, and 1i\gh faplal angle; facBOVil. ancf tba featiiroi
UtfBspt
d ruddy, or o'
diflaniit Abades ot bmwn ; balr abimdjuit oa head and chin, but ulBp^titKl
tLinly over other parte ot the body ; culout varlcins, accardiug ta cooipleiion,
from n yoUoir-red auburn and deep brown lo gloasy blaok ; *reab!neorhMel to
(lark brown and black; eUtnrB ot medium size, apprpacblng 9 feet la the Cair
TUJetiee. but sevei^ Incbea leti in the dark. MoHcular etrength greet ; InteL-
lAOl highly developed. Langoagee polyBrlbtbii!, copious, and highly Infltxiorkal
Thti tJTB it diyided Into two biancheB, Che /ndo-BurojJMH or Jsptetlc braucli,
■Bd tha S^n-Arabian or Bemltic braach. For s toller deicrlrtiiin of Uiese we
chlnp
>kln ot
mdbl
m other parts of th
in olive
and btaok ; lAs Ih
-hort atrenaUi and cndoraii
Inlellict moderately developeii. bat ahrewd,
more obstlnnta Ibnn brave, and extremely cmej to vanqniabed foes ; imBcitia-
tfon and tute deacieut; Imitative and ekUrul in the duaieatio arts, but wiOioat
■ajscienttBa oDterprlie; eootentwlth a ilatlonuy clvlliBatlon ; fond of hono-
Iiaok. aluegiib, and dirty. Langtisgea inartiflnlal, limited In range of lltenture.
mfleiUmi, and Che rinno-l^nnHan, uhli'Ji la illghtly inSeilonal ancl phoneUc.
RvUgLous aapiratlonfl obtoae, tbe fonns being varlouB, as Buddhlem, Bbaniuilam,
G2
PHYSICAL GEOGEAPHT.
Neoro or Ethiopian Race. — Skull thick and heavy, compressed at the
Bides, and elongated from front to back ; the forehead convex, retreating, fuid
narrow, with facial angle lower than in the Mongolian type ; cheek-bones pro-
jecting forward ; both jaws much elongated, with the front teeth of the upper
turned obliquely forward ; mouth wide, and lips very thick ; the chin retracted ;
eyes black and prominent ; skin varying from a deep sallow to intense black,
and emitting a strong, offensive odour, but soft and silkv to the touch ; hair of
a crisp, woolly texture, and curly on the head, generally destitute on other parts
of the body ; beard scanty on the upper lip, and chiefly confined to the chin.
Body strong, muscular, and often very symmetrical ; the arms somewhat elon-
gated; feet broad, heavy, and flat-soled. Intellect without depth or compre-
hensiveness, but acute and perceptive ; patient, submissive, affectionate, honest,
cheerful, and contented ; well adapted for all domestic and i^cultuial employ-
ments, but do not excel in uts, navigation, or commerce, and have never arrived
at a high civilisation. Languages a^lutinate, slightly inflexional, but one
stage removed Arom the simplest monosyllabic, and without a written litera-
ture. Religion fetichism or demon-worship, but Mohammedanism among the
northern tribes; in a civilised state, however, they are susceptible of deep
devotional feelings.*
Population of the Globe. — The population of the entire globe cannot,
as yet, be stated with anything like accuracy, as many regions still
remain unexplored, and as, beyond the limits of Europe, correct census
of the population are almost wholly unknown. Accoiding, however,
to the most recent estimates, it amounts to 1890 millions, that of the
diffei*ent continents being as follows : —
Continents.
Area in Eiifirllsh Square
Population by latest
Estimates.
Europe
Asia,
Africa,-
North America, . . .
South America, . . .
Oceania,
Total, . . % . .
3,857,122
16,427,015
11,556,300
8,770,882
7,028,206
4,500,000
301,232.352
784,728,500
188,000,000
58,939,239
27,170.932
30,000,000
52489,025
1,800,061,023
Religions of Haakind. — The following estimate has been made of the
numbers professing each of the principal religions now existing ; but
ihey can be viewed as only a rough approximation to the truth : —
Roman Catholics, 176,000,000\
S^^ah;:::::::::::::::'K;r ^ christians. 400,000.000
Minor Christian Sects, .... 28,000,000;
Jews, 7,000,000 Jews, 7,000,000
Mohammedans, 145,000,000 Mohammedans, 145,000,000
Brahmins, 225,000,000 'j
Buddhists, 395,000,000 V Heathens, 735,000.000
Other Pagans 115,000,000)
Not accounted for, 103,000,000
Population of the Globe, 1,890,000,000
* For a description of the sub-varieties above enumerated, the student ia re-
tarred to the seuuons of this work treating of America and Oceania.
PART III.
POLITICAL OEOOEAFHY.
E U K 0 P E.
_. Bonndaries. — Nortli, the Arctic Ocean ; West, the Atiau-
' tic ; South, the Strait of Gibraltar, thii Sleditcrranean, Sea of
Marmora, Black Sea, anil Mount Caucasus ; Eiiat, the Caspian
Sea, the Kiver Ural, the Ural Mountains, and the Bivcr Kara.
Continental Enrope licslMtween the parallels of 36"!' and 73° 8' N.,
and betwaen the meridians of S° 30" W., and 65° E. ; it otciipies 35° 8' of
fait and 71° 30' of Ion., and, nith tlie eiception of Laplnnd and part o(
thg gavermueut of Arkliaa^l, is wholly inchided within the north tem-
perats lone. Bnt inanUr Enrope, including Iceland, Spitzbergen, the
Azores, Candia, kc., embroceB a. much larger area — viz, , bom Int. S4° 51/
<C!andia) to 80° id' (SnitzljBTgen), and from Ion. 81° Iff W. (Amrea) to
65° E. (Dnd MoiintBiaa),-heing in all, 45° 63- of Int. and 98° 18' of Ion.
Grodno, in Russia, in the centre of tlie continent, ia nearly in the Enma
latitude as the centre of Ireland, the south of Labrador, the nortli of Lake
Winnipeg and Queen Charlotte Island, and as Tula, Uratak, and the
middle of Lake Baikal ; and nearly in the same longitude as Hammer-
Teat, Tomea, Riga, LembBr^ Klauaenbnrg, Athena, anO. the east side of
Tripoli and Cat>e Colony. The aouth-eoat comer of Sweden is the centra
cf laaalar Europe.
2. Form, Dimensions, Eztreme Points, and Coast-Line.
— Europe is an imineiiJie peninsula jutting out from Western
Amb, and broken up into a great number of smaller peniBsuloa.
the principal of which ate : The Scandinavian, bet. the Baltic
imd Atlantic ; the Danish, het. the Baltic and North Sea ; Brit-
tany, bet. tlie English Channel and Bay of Biscay ; the Spanish,
bet. the Atlantic and Mediterranean ; the Italian, het, the Ad-
riatic and Tyrrbeniiui Sea ; the HellDnic Peninsula with Istria
and the Moteo, bet. the Adriatic and Black Sea i and the Crimea,
bet the O. of Odessa and Sea of Azov. The peninsulas occupy
oue-fborth of the entire area of the continent.
All these, with the single exception of the Danish, Btretch out in a
noatherly direction, and hare manntain-ianges occupying tlielr entire
> — .1. mil arkible law holds good with aluiciit all the peniii4i\aa
length. This re
64 POLITICAL GEOGRAPUY.
of the globe. The extreme length of Eurojpe, firom Cape St Vincent in
l^ortugal to Orsk in the Ural Mountains, is 3400 miles ; extreme breadth,
from North Cape in Lapland to Cape Matapan in Greece, 2450 miles.
Cape Nordkyn m Norway is the most northern point of the continent ;
Ponta da Tarifa, near Gibraltar, the most southern ; Cabo da Boca, in
Portugal, the most western ; and the Urals, in Perm, the most eastern.
Owing to its peculiar form and numerous deep indentations, the coast-
line greatly exceeds in proportion that of every other continent. It is
estimated at nearly 17,000 miles, being one mile of coast to every 225
miles of surface ; while Asia has only one to everv 550 miles ; Africa, one
to every 710 ; and America, one to every 490. Tne continental boundary
does not exceed 2500 miles. It is in a great measure owing to this pecu-
liarity of surrendering herself to the ocean, and her central position in
the terrestrial hemisphere, that Europe owes her high civilisation and
unrivalled commercial prosperity.
3. Area and Population. — The total nrea of Europe, includ-
ing the islands, is estimated at 3,857,122 sq. miles, or con-
siderably less than one-fourth the size of Asia. Hence, reckon-
ing the area of Oceania at 4,500,000 sq. miles, Europe is the
simdlest of the six great divisions of the globe, of the land-sur-
face of which it embraces only a fourteenth part Knssia
embraces much more than a half of its entire area, and the
British Isles less than a thirtieth. According to the most
recent census of its various states, the population, in 1872,
amounted to 301,222,352, or nearly one-tourth of the entire
human race. It is by far the most densely peopled of all the
continents, having 78 persons to each sq. mile. The seven
most densely peopled countries are, — Belgium, which has 440
persons to the sq. mile ; the Netherlands, 275 ; the United
Kingdom, 259 ; Italy, 233 ; South Germany, 210 ; Prussia and
North Germany, 194 ; France, 178.
4. Political Divisions. — Europe contains, at present, six^^- .
seven separate states, all of them more or less independent. Of
this number 26 belong to the recently constituted German
Empire (including Alsace), and 25 to Switzerland. Counting
the confederations as forming one State each, we have in all
16 states, the names, areas, populations, and capitals of which
mil be found in the following table. There are 4 Empires
(Germany, Austria, Russia, and Turkey) ; 37 Monarchies (in-
cluding Kingdoms, Grand Duchies, Duchies, and Principalities) ;
and 26 Republics. The various states are arranged in three
separate classes, according to their political importance. Great
Britain, Prance, Germany, Russia, Austria, and Italy are called
the six Great Powers, because they exercise a decided influence
on the political affairs of Europe. Those of the second rank
are Spam, Belgium, Sweden and Norway, and Turkey ; while
those of the third rank are Portugal, Switzerland, the Nether-
lands, Greece, and Denmark.
H
^ SS-S"SSSlS~SS!SSSsSSS!^~i
JiJiiiyiiiyili
iliiil
I
66 POLITICAL GEOGRAPUY.
5. Isthmnses and Capes. — Isthmus of Coriuth, connecting
the Morea with Northern Greece ; Isthmus of Perekop, connect-
ing the Crimea with the mainland of Russia. The other isth-
muses, though numerous, have no distinctive names. Owing to
its peninsular character, the capes and headlands of Europe are
extremely numerous. The following are the principal : —
In the Arctic Ocean— C Nordkyn, in Finmark, the most N. point of
the continent ; North Cape, in I. Mageroe ; C. Nord, N. W. of Iceland. In
the Baltic—The Naze, S. of Norway ; Skaw, N. of Denmark ; Hango
Head, S.W. of Finland. In North Sea and Atlantic— Sumbvagh. Head,
S. of Shetland ; Dennis Ness, N. of Orkney ; Dunnet Head, Duncansby
Head, and Cape Wrath, N. of Scotland : Buchanness the most E., Point
of Ardnamurcnan the most W., and Mull of GaUoway the most S. points
of Scotland ; Lowestoft Ness the most-E., South Foreland the most S.E.,
Lizard Point the most S.W., and Land's End the mostW. points of Eng-
land ; Malin Head in the N., Fair Head in the N.E., Camsore Point in
the S.E., C. Clear in the extreme S., and Dunmore Head in the extreme
W. of Ireland ; Capes Gris-Nez, Barfleur, La Hague, in the English
Channel ; Raz Point, the extreme N.W. of France ; Capes Ortegal and
Finisterre, N.W. of Spain ; Cabo da Roca, in Portugal, the most W.
point of the continent; C. St Vincent, S.W. of Portugal : Pt. Albemos,
m the Azores, the most W. point of insular Europe. In the Mediier^
ranean — Punta da Tarifa, in Spain, the most S. point of the continent ;
Capes de Gata, Palos, St Martin, Creux, E. of Spain ; Corso, N. of Cor-
sica ; Teulada, S. of Sardinia ; Passaro, S.E., and S. Vito, N.W. of Sicily ;
Spartivento, Nau, and Leuca, S. of Italy; Matapan, S. of Greece;
Matala (Crete), the most S. point of insular Europe ; Chersonese, S.W.
of Crimea; Abcheran, in the Caspian, the E. extremity of Mount
Caucasus.
6. Islands. — Very numerous, and best arranged in groups or
classes, according to the seas in which they are situated : —
In the Arctic Ocean — Novaia Zemlia ("new land") and Vaigatch, N.E. of
Russia, and forming an insular prolongation of the Ural Mountains ; Spitz-
bergen, N. of Lapland ; Franz Joseph Land, midway between Novaia
Zemlia and the Pole, which is probably the most northern island on
the globe ; Kolguev, at the entrance to the Gulf of Tcheskaia ; MageriJe
group, fringing the N.W. coast of Finmark ; Loffoden Islands, W. of Nor-
way. In the A tktntic — Iceland, 700 miles W. of Norway, and immediately
S. of the Polar Circle ; Faroe Isles, 35 in number, midway between Iceland
and Shetland, and at the northern limit of the growth of grain ; the Brit-
ish Isles, 5500 in number, separating the Atlantic from the North Sea
(principal, Great Britain, the largest island belonging to Europe, and the
seventh largest in the world ; Ireland, Anglesea, Isle of Man, Hebrides
or Western Islands, Orkney Islands, Shetland Islands, Isle of Wight,
Scilly Islands) ; the Norman or Channel Isles, N. of France ; the Azores,
a volcanic group, 800 miles W. of Portugal. In the Baltic — The Danish
group, between Denmark and Sweden (principal, Zealand, Fiinen,
Langeland, Laaland, Falster, Alsen, Bomholm); the Swedish group,
S.E. of Sweden (Gothland and Oeland) ; Rugen, NW. of Prussia; the
Aland Isles, at the entrance of the Gulf of Bothnia ; the Livonian group
(Oesel and Dago), at the mouth of the Gulf of Riga ; Cronstadt or Kot-
linoi, in the E. extremity of the Gulf of Finland, with a celebrated Bus-
876^0
ECIBOPE. G7
... In the lledi/en-aMan — Tha Baieario Isles, east of Spain
(prindpal, Majorca, Minorca, W^a, and Forment«ra) ; the Sardo-
Coralcan group, W. of Central Italy (principal, Sardinia, Coraica, Elba);
the Sicilian ^np, S. of Italy (principal, Sicily, Lipari Isles, Ustica,
and Psntellnria) : the Maltese groap, or Malta, Gazo, and Comino ; thr
niyrian Arcbipelago, in the Gulf of Quamero | the Dalmatinn Archi-
pelago, on the W. coast of Dalmatia ; the Ionian Isles, W. of GSreaoe ;
Eabtea or Fegropout, K of Hellas ; the Cjckdes, K of the Morea ; tbe
Spoiadei, N. of Eubifa; Candia, S.K of the Jlorea.
7. Seas, Gnl&i and Straits. — No other contment has eo
ntanf inland eeaa and arma of the sea. We con enumecate
only the following : —
Tki ^tdiurrajttim, between Europe and Africa, 2300 m. long, and
S76j(X)0 lu. In area. Its principal members are, G. of Lions, G. of Qenoa,
**■* Tyrrhenian Sea, het. Italy and the Sardo-Coreican islands ; the Adii-
bet. Italy and Turkey; lunian Sea, bel^ Greece and Italy; the .^geen
Arcbipalago, hat. Greece and Asia Minor ; Sea of Manunia7™t-
^ ian and Asiatic Tnikey. Tie Black Sea, het. Rnssia and Asiatic
^_-key, 690 m. long by 380 m. broad, and having an area of 172,500
■q. in. Its branctea are, G. of Odeaaa, Str. of Kherson, G. of Perekop,
Sea of Azov, G. of Sivaah or Putrid Sea. TAe Catpum Sea, S.E. of Bus-
■ia, 7O0 m. long, 200 m. broad ; area, 178,866 sq. m.; surfaceSS feet loiver
tiian the Black Sea ; drained esctuaivaly by evaporation | probably
cammnnicated at a remote period with the Black Sea, at nhich time its
area wai vastly larger : belongs more to Asia |hau to Europe, ike
WUte Sea, an inlet of the Arctic Ocean, m the N. of Bussia ; area, 40,000
iq. m. : Kb parts are, Golfs of Onega, EandjJak, and Arkhangel ; Tchei-
taia oil/, N.K of Biiesia; Varanger Fiotd, bet. Russia and Norwegian
Lapland ; Weat Fiord, bet Norway and Loffoden lales. Tfie BaUic, a
lai^ inland aea communioating with the Korth Sea, and *'--
Centra] from Northern Europe; lenglbaoo m., br. ISOm.i -
■q. m. ; sbalUiw throughout, eaihng dangerona, tides scarce
braDehes, G. of Bothnia, bet. Sweden and Finland; G.
of Finland ; G. of Riga, bet. Livonia and Conrland ; G, of Dantzit N.
of Pnuaia ; O. of Lnbeck, bet. Eolatein and Mecklenburg. 7jU North
Statn Berma-n. Ocean, bet. tbe British Isles and tha continent; length
from Shetland to Dover, 700 m.; greatest br., 420 m.; area, 244,000 aq.
in.; traversed by immense saud-banke, as the Dogger Baiik and Long
Forties ; branches, the Skager Bacb, M. Norway and Denmark, 60 m.
broad ; the Katt^at, bet. Sweden and Denmark ; the Dollart and Zu jder
Zee, is the N. of Holland ; the English Cluinuel, bet. Eu^nd and
Ftuice ; the estuary of the Thames, the Wash, the Firtba of Forth and
T^, the Moray and Pentland Firths. The Iriih ^en, bet. Great Britain
md Ireland ; branches. North Channel, St Geot^e'e Channel, Solway
Pirth, and Bristol Channel. The Baj/ 1^ Biicay, S. of Spain, famous for
fu heavy seas and dangeroite navJgatiDn.
Thb PBlBoiPii. Sthaits aie: Str. of Gibraltar, oniting tbe Medi-
tananBan with the Atlantic ; 8tT. of Bonifacio, bet. Corsica and Sardinia;
Sltr. of Meaaina, het. Italy and Sicily ; Str. of Otranto, het. Italy and
Turkey; the Hellespont or Sardauellee, nnitiug the Archipelago with
tbe Sea of Marmora ; the Boiparous, or Str. of Constautiitople, uniting
the Sea of Mamiora with the Black Sea ; Str. of Kertch or Yenikaleh,
bn. tbe Black Sea and Sea of Azov ; Pentland Firtb, bet Scotbuid and
68 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Orkney ; Str. of Dover, bet. England and France ; The Sonnd, "bet.
Sweden and Seeland ; Great Belt^ bet. Seeland and Fiilmen ; Little Belt,
bet. Schleswig and Ftihnen.
8. Monntain-SsTstems. — ^Eastern Europe, or Bussia, is nearly
all one nniform plain, and the northern portion of Central
Europe is also remarkably level ; but Western and Southern
Europe are highly mountainous. The various chains can be all
arranged into eight grand mountain-systems — viz., the British,
Hesperian, Sardo-Corsican, Alpine, Scandinavian, Sarmatian,
TJratian, and Caucasian. The two last are partly European and
partly Asiatic ; but as their highest summits occur in this con-
tinent, and as there are no other mountains in Eastern or South-
eastern Europe, they are most conveniently treated of here.
These eight systems, with their widely - extended bases and
ramifications, occupy the entire area of S.W. Europe.
The British System traverses the British archipelago, finom the Scilly
Isles to Shetland, a distance of 800 miles in length. It embraces also tiio
Faroe group, midway between Shetland and Iceland. As compared with
some of the other mountain-systems of Europe, it is of very moderate
elevation, and nowhere reaches the line of perennial snow ; tibough Ben
Nevis, its culminating-point, lat 56" 48', probably comes short of it by
less than 100 feet. The system embraces various mountain-rang^ the
principal of which traverses the extreme length of the largest island, and
forms the water-parting between tiie North Sea and the Atlantic The
mountains of Ireland and of the smaller islands are of greatly inferior
elevation. We subjoin the names of the principal ranges, with tiie height
of their loftiest mountains ; and for particulars, refer the student to
Scotland, England, and Irelimd : Farde 7«Z««— Island of Ostero, 2864
ft. ; Shetland Isles — Rooness, in Mainland, 1476 ft.; Orhn^n — Hill of
Hoy, 1555 ft.; Northern Range of Scotland— Ben Attow, 4000 ft; Gram-
pians— ^Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the British Isles^ 4406 ft. ;
Cheviot ffillSy between Scotland and England, 2741 ft.; Pennine Chain,
in north of England — Ooss FeU, 2927 ft. ; Cumbrian Chain, in Cumber-
land—Scawfel^ 3229 ft.; Cambrian Chain, in Wales (Snowdon), 8590 ft ;
Devonian Cham, in the S.W. of England (Caws and Beacon), 1792 ft;
Irish Mountains— WGmicnMfa Reeks, inS.W., 3404 ft Height of
snow-line in the centre of the archipelago — lat. 55% about 5000 ft; do.
the Grampian range, about 4500 ft
The HBsperian or Spanish System occupies the whole Spanish
peninsula, the Balearic Isles, and the portion of France which lies south
of the Garonne. It forms in its interior an elevated plateau of great
extent, which has an average height of about 2500 feet, and embraces
many lofty mountain-ranges, the principal of which are subjoined (see
under " Spain") : The Pyrenees separate the Bay of Biscay and the Garonne
basin from the basins of the Douro and Ebro, 11,168 ft.; Cantairian
Chain, bet. Douro and Tagus, 10,552 ft.; Mountains of Toledo, bet the
Tagus and Guadiana, 5110 ft: Sierra Morena, bet. the Gnadiana and
Guadalquivir, 5550 ft.; Balearie Mountains, 5114 ft.; Sierra Nevada,
bet the Guadalquivir and the Mediterranean, 11,663 ft Line of per-
petual snow on Sierra Nevada, 11,200 ft ; do. in the Pyrenees, 8856 ft
The Sardo-Corsican System is confined to the islands Corsica and
le Cotsn in the tor-
n CoiHicB. 9068
e GBDnrgentu, id Snrdinia, TOUO ft.; Enow-line in lat i2*' Sf,
POdfj ft.
Die Alpine Byateia trsTHnra Ftsnce, Itutj, and Turkey, and extendi
Iromtbe Maditeiraiiiiuu to the Great CeDtre.1 Flam, Bndfnotitlie Oonnme
to the Dniester. It ambraoBS 6tb dirtinct minor ByBtoms, bU of Brefll
altitndie, indndiag the Alps proper, contBinine Mont Blanc in &kvo7
(13,781 feet], the higliest suiumtt in Europe. In reulitr, hDwe'ar, ihat
iiononr ahould be awarded to Moimt ^burz, the cnlniinatin^'point tTf
the CaniiaeaE cbain, vhich ie 2790 feet higher thui Mont Blont, ami
within the Ijuiita af flnrope.
(1. ) The Alys proper, a huge Drranani-BhapEd mnge, ertending from
:N'iGeta Vieniu, and tiounded lif the haauu in the Bhouesnd DonluaD
ttie VGGt, t>f Ibfi Aor and I>anTibB en the north and east, and by thnee of
the PD and Ban ou the Boutb : total length, 000 luileB. It consiiiti of
two cantiguouB chains — ru., the Weetera Alps, from the MediterTaDein
at Hiaetu.MDnt Blanc in Saroy, dividing Fiance fmni Italy, and the
" n, biun the ya ; and the Eaetem Alps, oj' lutich grester imadth.
nsiBting of twi
._ . _ le Alps, the Alps o!" St Gall, and the Motie Alps, and
g nearly to Vieuna ; and the latter in blurting the Pennine Alps,
B BcdTetion Alps, the Khactiaii Alpa, the Camic and Jnlian Alps.
J« highest snnunits ate t (reiler»..4^j»— Mt. PBlvDllx,lS,14llfL; £ait-
»j4ipi— N. fienes, Finfiter-aar-bDin, 14,100 ft— S. boriee, M. Blanc.
V?B1 ft Height of luic ofpetenniol snow m Bwiss Alps, BBOO ft,
'",) TbeFreauh or QuUo-IiuidBii Mountuins, embracing all the raomi-
of I^ranoe north of the Garonne and vest of the lUjoue, iLUd oim-
i vit^ the Alps prppcr by the Jura chain \aoe under ^* Fr/aics'^i-
.itSeculet, in Jura cWn, f>Ca2ft.; BaLon de Gnebwiller (Toeera),
t fL; Cote d'Or Mta., 1986; Cevaunes Mts., It. Jfesm, DB2B ;
i<^e., Fny dc Sancv, eiS7.
B4(B.) The Apennines, 6(H) miles long, set out from the MnritiTna Alps.
wttse the entire length cf Italy, reapiiear m the island of Sidlv, and
D the-VBtfli-parting betiveeu the MedileiTaiiBaD on the one ude, aiid the
_ and Adnatic on the other. Hcnte Como, in North of Naples, 9G31
K. ; IL £ltna,tbe culntinating-point of the evoteiD, 10,B74 H. Height
of snow-line in Bicily, BaOO ft. ; height in Central Italy, SaOO.
(1.) The BlBVO-HeUemc Mountains conipilae all the mauntBiuE in the
Hellonic pHUinsula south of the Danube ajid BaFE, locBthej with thole of
CnvtiB and Lialmatia. There are two principid ranges — one, the
MtUiBiw, etntching southward along the £, coast of the Adriatic, and
liDuinating iLt Oupe Matapan in Greuce ; the olhur, the Halkay^, branch-
ing off from the HelleniE in the N.Ii, of Albania, puisning no eaaterJy
dkBctUm to Cape Eiiiineh in tiie Black Baa, and forming Uie boDndary
bflbmon fioninelia and Bulgaria. SalUitic Ranqv — Ut- Olyiupus, V^i9
n. Baikm, Rimge—iL'L. Tchar Sagh, OBtO. Height of snaH-Iine on Mt
OljmipUB, 9000.
jCi.) The Hercyrun-Ooipathian systetn EOmprisBs all the mountaiua
lying betwesn the DoDiibe, Dniester, VMulu, Bhine, and the Baltic,
biuoethe entire lemuindor itf the p'eat Alpine systeni. T\i£ Cargaihiaiia,
SLBotaohetje, 9528 fL ; Riacugibirye, batween Bohemia and Moratia,
nsTC ft. ; SelHiiaTtxwald, in Baden, 4a0O fL ; Bokmervald, between Bo-
hmniB and Bavaria, 461S ft. ; Thr San, in Hanover and Pcnasia; S74D
fl. Baieht of BDOw-linc in the Cori'athianE, about (iOOO ft
70 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
The Scandinavian System traverses the Scaadinavian peninsula, from
the Atlantic to the 6. of Bothnia, and from the North Cape to the Naze.
Commencing at the Naze, in the south of Norway, it proceeds northward
through that kingdom as far as the latitude of Trondhjem, then forms
the boundary between Norwa^r and Sweden, and terminates at the North
Cape in Lapland, after traversing a total length of about 1150 miles. In
the south of Norwav its breadth extends about 200 miles, but north of
Trondhjem only 60 miles. The chain is not continuous, but consists
rather of a series of broad plateaux, separated occasionally by deep and
narrow valleys, and very rich in minerals. There are three principal
ranges — the Hardanger, or Langefield, in the south, the Dovrefield in the
middle, and the Kiolen Mountains in the north. Each of these has nn-
merous glaciers: Langeiuld — Skagesloestinden, 8670 ft.; Dovrq/kld —
Sneehfitten, 7620 ft. ; JTiofeT^— Sulitehna (lat. 67°), 6200 ft Height of
snow-line in the Langefield, 5000 ft. ; Folgefonden glacier^ near ifergen,
6200 ft.
The Sarmatian System is only so named by way of courtesy, as it, in
fact, contains no real mountains ; but being the only elevated ground be-
tween Scandinavia and the Ural Mountains, it possesses considerable
hydrographical importance. The Valdai Hills, m the Government of
Novgorod, attain an elevation of only 1100 feet, and form the water-
pai'tmg between the Baltic, the Black Sea, and the Caspian.
The Uralian &^stem forms a natural boundary between Europe and
Asia, and the water-parting between the extensive basins of the Voljga and
the Obi. The principal cd&vd. (the Urals) extends from Orenburg, on the
river Ural to the Arctic Ocean, and reappears in the lengthened insular
group of Novala ZemUa ; length, 16S0 miles. It consists of round-backed,
plateau-shaped masses of very moderate elevation, generally not exceed-
isg 2000 feet, but rich in gold, platinum, and other metals. The highest
summits are : Konjak-Ofski (lat. 59° 55'), 5397 ft. ; Obdorsk (lat. 67°),
5286 ft.
The Cancasian System extends in one immense chain from the Black
Sea to the Caspian, forms the south-eastern boundary of European Rus-
sia, and separates the basins of the Kuban and Terek on the north, from
those of tne Eur and Bioni on the . south. Length, 750 miles ; mean
elevation, from 8000 to 9000 feet. The culmlnating-point of the system^
and in fact of Europe, is Mount Elburz, near the centre of the chain,
18,571 ft. above the sea, and 2790 ft. higher than Mont Blanc, the highest
summit of the Alps. Mount Kazbek (long. 44° 20'), 16,523 ft. Height
of line of perennial congelation, 11,000 ft. ; limit of the cereals, 7000 ft.
9. Volcanoes. — The volcanoes of Europe, active or extinct,
are very numerous. Of the former, upwards of twenty are
enumerated, aU of which, except Mount Vesuvius, near Naples,
are situated in islands ; but tne latter occur more frequently
in the interior of the continent, as the mountains of Auvergne
in France ; the Eastern Pyrenees in Catalonia ; the Eifel in
Prussia ; the Westerwald, between Nassau and Westphalia ; the
Vogelsberg, between the Main and Weser ; and many others in.
Germany.
The principal acHve volcanoes, which are for the most part con-
fined .to the basin of the Mediterranean, are : Mount Vesuvius* in
* This celebrated volcaso, the only existing active one on the continent.
f
EUROrE. 71
Saplea i Mount Etna* in Siuliy ] Strooiboli, + Vuknno, anj Vn]-
eanello, in tlie Lipui Islands i Mount Heclo,! und eeveral others, ixi
Iceland ; Monnt fieeren in Jan Usyen, midway between Iceland and
Spitzbergen ; Sajytcheff in Hovaia Zemlia, the most northern of
known volcanoes. To volcania agency must ako be referred the
Oejsets, or intermittent boiling spnnga of Iceland. The Azorea are
all of Toloiuuc origin, and contain muny recently-eitinct ToleenoeB ;
Bs aJsomany of the Cyclades, and the S.Vf. of the dsland Sardinia.
"Die earthquake diatrict of Evirope eitenils from the Caspian Sea to
the Azores, the central line of concussion being more or leaa pandlel
to the Pyrenees, Alps, Carpathian and Caucasian Monntaiua.
10. Plains and Table-Lands,— Notwithstanding the highly
mountainous character of Western Europe, by fai the greater
portioa of the snrfnoe of tie continent ia occupied by plains
and elevated plateaux or table-landa.
The most important Plains are : the Great Plain of Central and
Eaatem Europe, extending from the Str. of Dover to the Urals and
Caqiian, and from the Arctic Ocean t^ the Black Sea, — this plain has
a area of 2,GOD,000 square miles, being about two-tliirds of the en-
' re continent ; the Hungarian Plain, traversed by the Danube and
iss, SOO miles long, and from 800 to JOO feet above the sea-level;
n of the Lower Danube, between the Eaatfim Caipathiana and
Belkana ; Plain of Bohemia, in the basin of the Uppi» Elbe ;
1 of Lorobaidy, between the Alps and Apennines, end watered
by the Po. The principal Table-lands are : tie Plateau o£ Central
Spain, of great ejttent, and about 2500 feet high; the Plateaul ol"
Langres, Orleans, and Auvergne, in Central France ; the Plateau of
Bsvaria, about 2000 feet high ; and TransylTania, embosomed in the
chain of tha Carpathians,
11. Water-parting and Eiver-Easinfl. — All the rivers of
Europe beloo" to one or other of seven Rreat baaina, — the
Arctic and AtLintJc Oceans, the North Sea, the Baltic, Mediter-
ranean, Black, and Caspian Seas, The devated ridge which
HepoiateA one basin from another is called the Waler-parting,
and that which divides the seven basins into two principal
groups ia denominated the Great Water-parting.
Commencing at the south-western ertremily of the continent, neat
the StcMt of Gibraltar, the latter pursues a general N.E. direction,
till it arrives at the northern terminatiDn of the Ural Mountains,
ihaa cutting Europe diagonally into two great sections or slopes, now
uBOflUy called If'aUnhedt — the one inchning to the N.W., and the
bmled th4 two cUi% Bercnliinsuiu DDd PompeU. wltb tlieli inhsbltiiDta, during
an eropHini io lis yeat 78 n.D,
• Tho Inigeat Bid Biort fsraoDB yoleano la EnmpB; slity enniHoni are re.
oorded aa hufiiia taken place dorlng the historto period, the fast In ISM.
i Ccnutuitly buTDicg, anil eoDietmies culled. In conaeqiiccoii, tlie llghttmuBe at
ths MsUtunoeaa.
I tti lut gnat emptiOD Qa 131S) test tlie nebeg as fEir aa the Oilmtra, eOd
1
72
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
other to the S. E. By glancing at a map of Europe, it will be seen that
all the great rivers follow one or other of these two directions.'*
Hence the seven basins may be reduced to two grand basins, one of
which will include all the rivers finding their way to the Atlantic
and Arctic Oceans, with their branches the North Sea, the Baltic,
and the White Sea ; and the other, those flowing into the Mediter-
ranean, with its branches the Adriatic, the Black Sea, and the Cas-
pian. For though the two last-mentioned seas are at present separated
by a slight elevation, it is certain they were united during llie Ter-
tmry ages.
12. River-Basins and Capitals. — The following Table
shows the total and direct lengths in English miles of all the
Erincipal rivers of Europe, the areas of their basins in Eng-
sh square miles, and the capitals of the states and provinces
embraced in those basins. Tne rivers are arranged under the
seven oceanic basins to which they respectively belong, and in
the order in which their mouths would occur to an exploring
expedition, which, setting out from the northern extremity of
the Urals, should skirt the coast westward, southward, and then
eastward, till it arrived at the western extremity of Mount
Caucasus. The capitals of independent states are distinguished
by Small Capitals, those of provinces by Roman letters ; and
when the name of the state is different from that of its capital,
the former is added within parentheses.
The River-Basins op Europe.
Kame of Rtrer
or Estuary.
Total
Length in
English
MUea.
Direct
Iieiigth of
Basin in
English
Miles.
Area of Basin
In Square
MUes.
Capitak of States and Prorincc
In each Basin.
1. Basins inclined to the Arctic Ocean,
Petchora, .
Mezen,
Dwina,
Onega,
Alten Fiord,
900
620
400
800
700
600
300
250
160
80
114,400
80,100
184,400
21,000
Arkhangel, Vologda.
Altengard (Finmark).
* But let us trace the Great Water-parting more exactly. Commencing, as we
have said, near the Rock of Gibraltar, it follows the crest-line of the Sierra
Nevada, Pyrenees, Cevennes, C6te d'Or, Vosges, and Jura Mountains ; passes
north of Lake Geneva to the Bernese Alps and Mount 8. Gothard ; sweeps round
Lake Constance, which it keeps on the left, around the source of the Danube,
separating its basin from that of the Rhine, Elbe, and Oder; passes between the
basins of the Vistula and Dniester, and of the Dtina and Dnieper, then north
and east through the Valdai Hills, and around the head-waters of the Volga ;
pursues its course between Lakes Onega and Bielozero, turns south-east around
the sources of the Northern Dwina and Petchora, whose basins it separates from
that of tlie Volga ; and then, proceeding northward along tiie Uialian Ghatn, it
finally anivea at the Arctic Ocean.
EUROPE.
73
VMneofRircr
Totol
IiAurthin
Bngliih
Direct
Lenffthof
BMln in
Bngliali
MUml
Aremof Baaln
in Square
MilM.
Capital! of Stat«8 andProrinoM
in eacli Baiin.
2. Banns inclined to the A tlantic and North Sea,
Trondhjem Fiord,
Torrisdals,
Christiania Fiord,
GK>tha^ .
L. Malar, .
Dal, .
Augennan,
Uiuea,
Neva and Gulf
of Finland, .
Ditna,
Niemen, .
Pregel, .
Vistula,
Oder,
Stor,
Trave,
Schleifiord,
Lymfiord,
Elbe,
100
60
120
100
60
55
400
800
Weser,
17,000
Trondl^em.
GhriBtiansand.
Ghristlakia (Norway).
Goteborg (Gothland).
8. Basins inclined to the Baltic,
170
250
150
250
ISO
200
120
320
625
600
400
400
SOO
270
120
120
530
S60
445
360
95
65
50
25
40
20
99,700
34,700
85,700
6,300
72,300
45,200
Btoobiholm (Sweden).
Hem5sand (Norrland).
Helsingfors (Finland),
Revel (Esthonia), Pskov, St
Petebsburo (Russia), Nov-
gorod, Petrozavodsk (Olo-
netz).
Riga (Livonia), Vitebsk.
Grodno, Suwalki (Augus-
towo), Wilna.
EOnigsberg (Prussia Pro-
per).
Plock, Warsaw (Poland),
Radoin, Lemberg (Galicia),
Lublin.
Stettin (Pomerania), Bres-
lau (Prussian Silesia), Posen
(Prussian Poland), Troppau
(Austrian Silesia).
ScHWERiN (Aiecklenburg-
Schwerin).
LUBECK,
Schleswig.
4. Basins inclined to Nwih Sea.
100
550
230
90
420
500
55,000
250
17,700
Aalborg (Jutland).
Gluckstadt (Holstein),
Hamburg, Magdeburg
f Prussian Saxony), Dessau
(Anhalt), Dresden (Sax-
ony), Neu-Strelitz (Meck-
lenbui^ - Strelltz), Berlin
(Prussia), Rudolstadt
(Schwartzburg Rudolstadt),
Greitz (Reuss Greitz), Al-
TEKBURQ (Saxe-Alt.), SON-
•DERSHAUSEN (Schwarzburg-
Sonder.), Gotha (Saxe-
Coburg - Gotha), Weimar
(Saxe - Weimar), Prague
(Bohemia).
Bremen, Buckeburo
(Schaumburg-Lippe), Mein-
iNO£N(Saxe-M6in.}, Olden-
burg, Hanover, Bruns-
wick, Detmold (Lippe-
Det.), Abolsen (Waldeck,
Cassel (Hesse-Cassel).
74
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
KameofRlTer
or Bstoaiy.
Total
Length in
Enelish
Mfies.
Direct
Length of
Badnin
Enxliah
Mflet.
Area of Basin
in Square
MUea.
Oapttab of States and ProTinOM
ineachBaain.
Basins inclhied to North Sea (continued).
Ems,
Hunse,
Vecht,
Rhine,
Mease,
Scheldt,
160
130
50
40
90
60
600
400
580
230
210
120
75,000
Miinster (Westphalia).
Groiiingen,A8sen(Dieuthe).
Zwoll (OverysselX
Amsterdam (Nether-
lands), Utrecht, Amhem
(Guelderland), Cologne
(Rhenish Prussia), Wies-
baden (Nassau), Carls-
RUHE(Baiden), StrasbouTg(i)
(Alsace), Vaduz (Liechten-
stein), Nancy (LomdneX
Darmstadt (Hesse-DarmA
Stuttgart (Wtirtembeig),
Bern (Switzerland). (^)
Bois-le-duc(N. Brabant),
Maestricht (Dutch Lim-
burg), Liege, Namur, Arlon
(Belgian Luxemburg).
Middelburg (Zealand^
Antwerp, Bruges (W. Flan-
ders), Ghent (E. Flanders),
Brussels (Belgium), Has-
selt (Belgian Limbnrg),
LUle (French Flanders^
Arras (Artois), Mons (Hahi-
ault).
Basins inclined to the Atlantic (No. 2 continued),
Somme, . . 115 90 .. Amiens (Picardy).
Seine, . . 414 250 28,500 Rouen(Nomiandy), Paris
(France), Troyes (Cham-
pagne).
Vilaine, . . 125 80 . . Kennes (Bretagne).
Loire, . .530 350 44,500 Angers (Anjou), Tours
(Touraine), Orleans (Orle-
annais), Nevers(Niveniai8),
Le Mans (Maine), Limoges
(Limousinl Gueret (La
Marche), Poitiers (Poitou),
Bourges (Berry), Moulins
^Bourbonnais), Clermont
(AuvergneX
RocheUe (Aunis), Saintes
(Saintonge), Angouldme
(Angoumois).
31,000 Bordeaux (Guienne), Tou-
louse (Languedoc), Auch
(Gascogne), Foix (Foix).
(1) For the akcpf brerlty, the old prorlnees of France and Spain are those here employed, but the
new divisions WiU be found in the corresponding tables under those countries.
(S) The capitals of the Swiss cantons wHl be found in the Biver-Sjpstem of Central Europe.— (See
under " Axutria.")
Charente,
Garonne, •
115
414
90
250
125
530
80
350
200
110
800
230
's-^^
#
'r^jr-
— ■•L-KJi'—
Sflri«
J .-Briiwrf h the
^(JoBtlVlA
0. 2 cmitiftMfiii).
1
Nerrfod, ; '.
«
m
P8u(Bf«r7i).
Bilbao (BaaqnoProvlTicea),
Saloa, . .
Oyieao(A«fl.TiM).
■
011^
X\abo. .
S!l>
Ri-d'EMB, .
Brags (Hinho).
Do™, . .
ISO
aw
34,200
BurgoalOldCBMe).
MondBgo.. .
Colmbra (Belra).
TagM. .
MO
450
Ss'iOOO
Lisbon 'VortBgal), M*-
Ssflo,
100
™Esora *S™tjjD).
BadajoB (9p. EatiemB-
.
OMdHqoivlr,
300
270
lo.soo
n»da.
1
6
— Bojttti isciiji
d to the Me
ZiVoTanean.
■
BtgDB, . .
ISO
Hurcla.
ValeneiiL
™
Bbro, . .
a40
2B0
32,S00
Pamplona Nn.aiT8),
LIolinEat.
70
Bhone, . .
Avignon. LjonfLyonnala).
DUDMBou^gne], tauni
Florence (Tusiiany).
TFberl : '.
Home (K.\f Italy).
1
Po. . . .
4M
!S0
aV,™
TnaiB (Pledinuct), Uo-
dt^a,Parni., Venice (Vene-
Miraalii.
3W
70
tla), MUan (Lombarty).
MoBtsr (HerlEgovina).
ttu.' ;
LarlssKiThesaalj).
METllzi. '.
isisoo
m
8.-~5(«iiwfnc
nedl«lht£
lati&a.
1
Duiiiba, . .
808,000
Sniatria (BulgariB). Bel-
Bitds (aervla), PBterwar-
Aeia <MtlitBr]- FrontiurX
Cieranwiti ffiuckowlna.
Agrani (Crogtlo), BosnM-
Beral (Bosnia;, laybaeh (0-
lyria), KlBDHnbonr (Trail-
I
eyHBEla). EmK (SEla.
7G
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Kame of River
orEstiuury.
Total
Length in
English
Mflei.
Direct
Length of
Basin in
English
. MUea.
Area of Basin
in Square
Uilea.
Capitab of States and ProriooM
iaeachBaiin.
Basins inclined to the BlcLck Sea (continued).
Danube (cont.)
voniaX Grfttz (Styria),
Brtlnn (MoraviaX Inns-
brQck (Tyrol), Munich
(Bayaria), Salzburfi;, Temes-
\7ar (Banat and Servia).
Kamienetz (Podolla),
Dniester, .
500
400
27,300
Elichenev (Bessarabia).
Dnieper and Bug,
• •
640
195,600
Kherson, Ekaterinoslay,
Kiev, Mogilev Smolensk,
Poltava, Tchernlgov,
Koursk, Jitomir(VoIbyma),
Minsk.
Don,
995
500
176,500
Tcherkask (Don Cos-
sacks), Stavropol, Khar*
kov, Veronej.
Kuban, .
SSO
280
• •
Ekaterinodar (Black Sea
Cossacks).
7.—Basi
ns inclined to the Co,
spian.
Volga,
2400
1080
627,000
Astrakhan, Saratov, ^
mara, Simbirsk, Kasan,
Nijni-Novgorod, Kostroma,
Jaroslav, Tver, Perm, VI-
atka, Penza, Riazan, Kalu-
ga, Orel, Vladimir, Tam-
bov, Moscow, Tula.
Ural,
1040
550
85,000
Orenburg.
Kur,
520
400
80,800
Teflis, Erivan, Shemakha
(all in Transcatusasia}.
13. Lakes. — Lakes being for the most part mere expansions
of the rivers that drain them, the most natural way of treating
them is to group them in the order of the river-basins to which
they belong.
Clyde Basin — Loch Lomond, the largest lake in Scotland, drained
by the Levon ; area, 46 sq. m. Leven — ^Windermere, largest lake in
England, 10 m. long ; area, about 5 sq. m. Dee — Lake Bala, the
largest in Wales, 4 m. long. Bann — Lough Neagh, in Ireland, the
largest in the British Isles ; area, 153 sq. m. Dioinu — Eubinskoe,
in Vologda, North Kussia, drained by the Sukhona. Onega — Lakes
Latcha and Voje,'in Olonetz. Vygh — Vigo and Sego, in Olonetz.
A'cm— Kunto and Niuk, in W. of Arkhangel. .Smfo— Kovdo,
l*iavo, and Imandra, in Arkhangel. Varanger Fiord — ^Enara, drained
by the Patajoki or Pasvig, in N. of Finland. Olommen — Lake Mio-
Bou, in S.E. of Norway. G^o^Aa— Wener, in S.W. of Sweden, 2020
sq. m. ; and Faemund, in E. of Norway, drained by the Clara. Mo^
fa/a— Wetter, E. of Lake Wener. Arboga — Malar and Hielmar, in
liURora. 77
UiG E. of Sweden. Dal — Siljan, in the centre of Sweden. Indali
— StoTsion, N. of Lake Sman. SkeU/lea — Stoi and Horn, united,
in N. of Sweden. Lulea — Storo-Lalea, in H. of Sweden. Totmh
— Toraes, in N.W. of Sweden. Ulca — TJlea, in the centra of Fin-
land. Borgo A — P^uii, in the S. of Finland. Neva — I^doga. {ths
largest in Europe, area, 7150 aq. m.), Saima, Oriveai, Pielis, Knopio
or KalBTesi, nmeii, Onega, VoMoicro, all in Finland and Oionete.
Karova — Peipus, or Tchoudsltoe, between Livoaia and St Peters-
bnTg. Prtgel — Mailer See, in Eoat Pruaaia. Vistula — Spirding
See, in East Prosaia, drained by the Pische, an nffiaent of thcKarew.
StBr — Schwerin, in Mecklenbnrg-Sehwerin. Elbe— iiiintz, inMeok-
lenbnrg-Strelitz, drained by the Havel. Jihiiw — Boden See, on tha
Rhine ; Tbnn and Brienz, on the Aar ; Zurich and Wallenatadr,
on the Limmat ; Lucerne and Zng, on the IJeusa ; Bienne and tSea-
chStel, an tho Thiele ; all in Switzerland. Shone— heman or Geneva,
bet. Switzerland and Savoj ; Annecy, in Savoy, Fo — Garda, drained
by the Mincio ( Como, by the Adda ; Maggiore and Lugano, by the
Ticino. Daniiis— Balaton or Flatten Seo, drained by the Sio ; and
Nenaiedl, by the Eaabnitz : botb in Hungary. San — Manytch, in
Caacasaa, drained by the Wanytch. Volga — Seiigher, in Russia,
near the Valdai Hills, foi'ming the source of the Volga.
14. OUinaite. — The climate of Europe is greatly milder than
in other continents under the same latitude ; bnt it presents
Blrikmg diversities in different pait^, arising mainly from the
following causes ; —
lat, Ila Pimfion relative to lAe AtlavMc. — The prevailing winds
are ftoai the W. and S. W. , and hence pass over tliat ocean before
arrfviDg here ; acquiro its temperature ; become laden with its
Tnoistnre ; and, striking the shores of the continent, powerfully
affect the climate of W^em Europe. 2d, This Effect is greatlv in-
er^^ed by the warm ocean-cuTrent called The Golf Strcwm, which,
setting out from the Galf of Mexico, at a very high temperaturii,
Sroceeds along the coast of North America, crosses the Atlantic in a
r.E. direction, arrives at the western shores of Europe, and imparts
to them a temperature and climate greatly milder than they would
otherwise possess. 3d, The Etexation of the land above the sea-level.
The DiTeclvm of the elope, as indicated ' " " ■" ■
K of Enropo (deacribed at p. 72). Eth,
sereial conntriea in regard to great mountain-chiiins in their vicinity,
tth. The Latitude of the place, or its distance from the equator.
7th, Pradmity M oUier ptcaliar Climafic Regions. — For enample,
the south of Europe is considerably affected hy-tho proximity of
Afi^ca, which renders itt summer climate oppresBive ; while North-
ern Bnrope ia continnally exposed to the chilling winds of the Polar
Seaa and of Siberia.
Ollmatlo Zones.— If the Northern Hemisphere be divided into six
Tfothermal Zones (viz., the Ei^uatoriol, Warm, Mild, Coot, Cold, and
Polar Zones), which, as reganls cUmate, are greatly more important
78 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
than 2071^ of latitude, it will be found that no part of Europe lies
^vithin either of the eostrevie zones, that is, tne Equatorial and
Polar.
The Warm Zone, which is bounded by the isotherms of 77** and 59**
Fahr., and whose average annual temperature is 68°, includes nearly all
the Spanish peninsula, the islands of Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily, Malta, and
Crete, all Greece, and Italy south of Rome. The Mild Zone, between
the isotherms of SO** and 41", and with an average annual temperature
of 50** Fahr., comprises all Central Europe (including France and the
British Isles), the Faroe Isles, Scandinavia and Russia south of a line
drawn through Bergen, Christiania, Stockholm, Riga, Moscow, and Oren-
burg. The Cool Zone, between the isotherms of 41" and 82", and with
an average annual temperature of 36" Fahr., includes nearly all Iceland,
together with a broad belt of the continent lying between the Mild Zone
and a line passing through Hammerfest, the mouth of the river Tomea,
Arkhangel, and Tobolsk in Siberia. The Cold Zone embraces all the
remainder of the continent together with Spitzbergen, is bounded by the
isothermal curves of 32° and 5", and enjoys a mean annual temperature of
18" Fahr.
Rain. — The Quantity of Rain varies greatly in the different
countries, but most of the variations can be traced to known laws: —
(1.) It decreases as we proceed from S. to N. At the equator, 96 inches
fall in the year; in Italy, 45; England, 37; in North Germany, 22^; and
at St Petersburg, 16 inches.
(2.) It decreases as we proceed from the shores of the Atlantic east-
ward. On the coast of Portugal, the amount is 118 inches ; on the west
of Ireland, 47 inches ; but at London, 24 inches ; Paris, 21 inches ; East-
em Europe, 15 inches.
(3.) In Western Europe, and as far E. as Moscow, the rain- winds are
from the S.W. ; but farther E. and N. they come from the contrary
direotioD.
(4.) In the Warm Zone it rains most in winter ; in the Mild Zone, south
of the Alps and Carpathians, most in autumn ; in all the remainder of
Europe, most in summer.
(5.) The number of rainy days decreases as we proceed from the west
to the east side of the continent : thus, in Ireland (west side), rain falls
on 208 days ; Netherlands, 170 days ; west of Scotland (Cape Wrath),
250 days ; east of Scotland (Edinburgh), 165 days ; whereas in the north
of Germany and Gulf of Finland, it falls on 152 days ; Poland, 168 days ;
basin of the Volga, 90 days ; in the interior of Siberia, 60 days.
(6.) The number of days on which snow falls increases from south to
north : thus, at Palermo, in Sicily, on 1 day ; Rome and Florence, 2 ;
Venice, 6 ; Milan, 10 ; Paris, 12 ; Copenhagen, 30 ; St Petersburg, 171
days. At Gibraltar snow is rare, and Malta is never visited by snow-
flakes.
The average amount of rain over all Europe is 34 inches. The rainiest
localities in Europe are, Coimbra, in the vallev of the Mondego, where
the extraordinary amount of 118 inches falls annually; the Alps ;
Bretagne ; Cornwall ; the south of Ireland ; and the north-west comer
of Scotland. In regard to the variation from the tme north of the mag-
netic needle, the whole continent, except a small part of Russia, has a W.
declination, at present— while in Asia it is £.
EUKOPE. 79
15. Geology. — The foUowing condenseJ. epitome of the geo-
logy of Europe has heen carefully prepared from the "Geological
Map of Europe," edited by Sir Roderick I, MiirchiBoii and Pro-
feasor Niool, and forming Plate IV. of the ntw edition ot
Johnston's ' Physical Atlas.' *
CrrBtalUne Strata, or MetajnorpluE Eocka, prevail efipoaially in
North-western Euiopo, wliera they coter the whole anrface of Scan-
diuavia and Finland, with the eieeption of two entenaive tracts in
the centre and north of Norway. The other principal localities nrs
Sootknd, K of the Grwnpians ; the N. and N.W. ot Irelandj the
centre andW. of France; Bohemia; Tmuaylraima ; the E. side of
^rkey, Greece, Corsica, and Sardinia ; and the f;reat monntalu-
nnKea of the Continent, especially the Alps, Mount CaucamiB, and the
Uials. Wherever crystalhne strata greatly abonnii, they are pene-
trated throngh by Ghahitic Kuces ; as in Portneal and Gallcin,
Bretagne, the Grampians, the LoEFoden lales, Bohemia, basin of the
Dnieper and Bii°, Corsica, Saiilinia, &c. Trap Boceh chiehy
abouiid in Icelsnil, the Fari3e Isles, Sky and Mull, County Antrim,
Wales, Sweden, Finland, the Urals, and Lombardy ; and Volcasic
£ocKS in Naples, the Pontifical States, Sicily, Sardinia, Central
L france, aad the Carpathiana.
I , Lower FalEBDsolo Btiata— containicg the petrified remains of the
r earliest plants and animals yet discovered — occnpy the two largo
tracts in Norway above referred to ; an extensive belt S. of the 5.
of Finland, and a tract in the extreme S, of Sweden ; the S. of
Scotland, Westmoreland, nearly all Wales, and the W. of Irelaud ;
BretagiiB ; large areas in Southern and Central Spain ; the Julian
and Camic Alps ; some parte of Bohemia ; and a very long, narrow
belt in the Urals, extending tium the river Ural to the Aictic
Upper TaJieoiolc Strata— emhracing the Devonian, Carboniferous,
and Permian systems — have their largest development in Riiaaia,
where they extend, without a break, from the Baltic to the Urals,
and from the Arctic Ocean to Yoronej, in the centre of the Don
hwio, and occupy another large tract in the basin of the Donetz, na
affluent of the Don : they thua cover nearly a half of all Knssia, but
eoatain no coal, save along the Donetz, where mines are wrought to
a cousiilerable extent The next most important tract occnpied by
this series ia in the bBsina of the Khlne, Moaclle, and Menae. within
fte kingJoma of Prussia and Belgium. Thay are Tery extensively
developed in tlie British Islea, eapecially in Ireland, where they cnrer
four-fifths of the cooutry ; and in the larger island extend in a broad
belt from the Firth of Forth to Devondiire (a tract which is ex-
tremely rich in the valuable minerals, coal and ironstone), and hue
the coast irom Aberdeenshire to Caitlmess, extending to the Orkney
IsJacJa.
The Seoondary Ssiiea, or Mesozoic Croup, immediately overlies the
• For till PjlBontologjr of the dllTotent gsolugio sysWun uifl tormatioiiii, we
■q ide itodant to paces 41-S2 above.
80 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Palaeozoic, but differs from it widely in the character of its fossilsi
It embraces the Triassic, Oolitic, and Cretaceous systems, and occu-
pies a very large portion of the surface of Europe S. of lat. 65°; but
rarely occurs ]N . of that parallel, except in three detached tracts in
the N. E. of Russia (in the basins of the Petchora and Vychegda). In
the S. of Russia it occupies extensiye areas in the basins of the Ural,
Volga, and Don, as well as of the Pripet and Desna, affluents of the
Dnieper. In Turkey and Greece it occupies the greater part of the
territory S, of the Danube and Save, and the island Canma ; South-
ern Italy and Sicily; in Spain, a broad belt commencing at Gibraltar,
and extending first N.E. and then N. to the Bay of Biscay; the "W.
of Portugal ; the greater part of France E. of Bretagne and N. of
the Gironde ; nearly all Germany, from Hanover to the Danube ;
and more than a half of England, especially the E., centre, and S.
Secondary strata also cover the Northern Carpathians, and large por-
tions of the Alps and Pyrenees.
The Tertiary Series, like the Secondary, prevails almost exclu-
sively to the S. of lat. 55°, while the Palaeozoic and Crystalline strata
are found chiefly in the N. of Europe. Tertiary strata extend, with
few interruptions, in a broad zone, which, beginning at the North Sea
and Baltic, proceeds in a S.E. direction to the Black Sea and Cas'
pian, and extends in breadth from the Niemen to the Carpathians.
In Asia they cover the immense basin of the Obi, and the equally
large continental or internal basin of the Caspian. To the W. and
S. of the great belt above referred to, they cover, in whole or in part,
the basins of all the great rivers, as the Danube, Po, Ebro, Tagus,
Garonne, Seine, and Thames — the last two including the celebrated
Paris and London basins. The other localities where the Tertiaries
prevail must be learned by inspecting a good geolo^cal map, as no
description can convey an accurate impression of their actual position
and extent. Such inspection cannot fail to result in the conviction,
that Central and Southern Europe remained submerged under the
ocean for many ages after the northern portion existed as dry land,
and that during those ages the Black Sea and Caspian were united.
16. Minerals. — ^The mineral treasures of Europe are of the
highest importance, not so much on account of the precious
metals — ^in which it is inferior to other continents — as for the
abundance and utility of its more common minerals. Our
limits will only allow us to specify the principal localities
where the most important minerals occur.
Metals. — Gold is chiefly found in the Ural and Carpathian Moun-
tains (where more gold is obtained than in all the rest of Europe),
especially at Kremnitz in Hungary, and in the Russian governments
of Perm and Orenburg, where the mines yield 72,000 lb. annually.
Other localities are, Transylvania, Salzburg, Piedmont, Ireland, and
the sands of the Danube, Rhine, Rhone, Garonne, Tagus, and other
rivers. Mercury^ chiefly at Almaden in Spain, and at Jdria in
Camiola. Silver — ^British Isles (Cornwall, &c.), Germany, Hungary,
EUROPE. SI
SoTway, BoLemio, TransjlTania, Turkey. Cflj^ier— Coruwall, Devott-
iMre, Angiesea, Cork, Waterford, UraJ Mountains, Hungary, Styrin.
Norway, Prussia, Andalucia, Pyrenees, and Chesay, near Lyou.
rill— Comirall, DevanshirB, Saxony, Bohemia. Zead—hesdhUla in
Scotland, Cnmwall, the Sierra Hevado, the Eaatem Alps, Sasony,
and Bohemia. Zinc — Nowhere pleutiful, bot chiefly found in the
Riesengehirge, Cobalt — In Germany, almost eielosiyely. AnCijiumii
and .sSmuH-— Hare, but chiefly in Gennaiiy. Arimic — Schemnitz,
in the Carpathians. Iron — Widely distributee!, and generally wher-
ever the coal-measures are found ; but most abundant in Great Brit-
ain, the Cereniioa, Vosgea, Jura, Eastern Alps, Mountains of Norway,
the Riesengebirge.
RreoiouB Btones.— iJiamondB in the goremment of Perm ; jasper,
eholeedony, agate, and garnets, in Scot&nd and Germany ; topaa in
the Urals, Scotland, England, Bohemia, and Saxony ; the opal in
Hungary ; rubies in France.
Inllanmiable UlneralD. — Cool— Generally wherever the Upper
Palffiozoic strata are found, especially in England, the S. of Scotland,
Ireland, Belgium and N. of France, Germany, Prussia, Anetria, S. of '
Bu^ia. Sulphur — In volcanic regions, as the Solfataraa of Naples,
Sicily, Iceland. Amber — On the Pruaaian shores of the Baltic.
pBirofewm — In W^les, Italy, and WaUachia.
lUueral ielte.— Common Salt— In England, Germany, Hungary,
Poland, Spoin, Moldavia. Brine Springs very numerous in loenlitiea
where Secondary strata prevail ; Epsom Salts at Epsom in England j
Borai in Hungary; Saltpetre in Spain, Naples, Hungary, and Eus-
sia ; Alum in the crystalline rocks of Sweden, Norway, Britain, and
in the volcanic formations of Sicily, Lipari Islands, tmd the Azores.
17. Botany. — The flora of Europe does not probably contain
a single mdigenous plant peculiar to itself. TMa striking fact
is BufBciently accounted lor \iy its geogi«phical poaitiou ; for
not only is it in close proiimity to Northern A&ic4, but the
entire continent is a mere prolongation of Western Asia. Of
the twentj'flye Phjto-geographic Regions into ivhioh Schouw
ilivides the vecetation of tie globe (see p. 54), Europe embraces
a portion of tte first three — viz., the Arctic-AlpiuB, the Nordi
European, and the Mediterranean Bcgion&
The ArctlC'Ab>lne Begloii, which is also caUed the region of ^oa!ei
a-iul Saxifragei, naturally divides itself into two proviueea — tho Polar
and Alpine; the first embracing the north polar lands of iHnrope,
Asia, and America, between the limits of ice and the region of trees;
and tho second, all the higher elevations of Europe and Asli south of
the polar circle, which eitand from tho line of porpetnal congelation
to the first appearance of trees. Both provinces are chamcteriaed by
a profusion of lichens, mosses, and soxiirages ; hy the total absence
- ' — BB properly so called, though numerous slmiba, especially the
V and dwarf-birch, make their apiiearanco iu the Polar pro-
s, and junipers, alders, willows, rhodudcndions, whortlcherriei^
82 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
and cranberries, in the Alpine. Dwarf perennial herbs, with large
flowers of bright colours, are also abundant ; but annual plants are
rare, and tropical families are wholly wanting. The mean annual
temperature of the polar provinces, wh^ch corresponds with the Cold
Zone (described at p. 78), is 18° Fahr., and hence cultivation is im-
possible.
The North European Region, also called the region of the UmheUv-
fercB (mean temp. 29° — 46° Fahr.), embraces the wide space between
the Arctic Circle and lat 45° — or the Mild and Cool Zones described
above — ^being the whole of Europe and Asia K. of the Pyrenees,
Alps, Black Sea, Caucasus, and Altai Mountains, not included in
the former region. It is characterised by the prevalence of the
natural orders UmbeUifersd, Cruciferse, Graminese, Caricese, Fungi,
and Cichoracese. The predominant trees are tiie Conifer» and
Amentacese (or the cone-bearing and catkin-bearing families), as the
fir, yew, and cypress, willow, poplar, hazel, birch, plane, alder, oak,
and beech ; the pastures are luxuriant, and the forest trees lose
their foliage in winter.
The M^terranean Region, or region of the LaUaitB wnd Ccuryo'
pJvyllecB (mean temp. 55° — 73° Fahr.), embraces all the remainder of
Europe, together with Asia Minor, Syria, Africa N. of the Sahara,
the Azores, and Canaries. It is specially marked by the predomin-
ance of the orders LabiataB and Caryophyllse ; by some representa-
tives of tropical climes, as palms, terebinths, and laurels ; oy many
evergreen treeq and shrubs; by the families of the second region
becoming less numerous, their place being occupied by a greater num-
ber of woody plants ; and by the existence of a winter flora. The
pastures, however, are less luxuriant than in the former region, and
are interspersed with copses of the heath tribe.
Food-Plants. — Among Food-Plants the cereals are cultivated 20** far-
ther N. in Europe than in America ; their northern limit being nearly
coincident with that of the Cool Zone described under the article Climate.
Seven distinct species are cultivated, each of which requires a climate
peculiar to itself ; but the zones of territory occupied oy them merge
mto one another like the seven colours of the rainbow, and, like the lat-
ter, preserve the same invariable sequence. Beginning at the N., the
order is as follows : — Barley, rye, oats, wheat, millet, maize, and rice ;
the four last of which extend southward to the tropical regions. No
species of grain can be brought to maturity in Iceland ; but b^ley grows
in the Far5e Isles, and on the continent as far N. as Hammerfest and the
mouth of the White Sea. Rye is largely cultivated in the N. of Europe,
especially in Russia, Germany, and part of France, where it forms the
principal food of the people ; and it is estimated that it sustains one-
third of the population of Europe. Oats are extensively grown in Scot-
land, Norway, Sweden, Russia, and other places between the lat. of Paris
and 65° N. Wheat extends over a very wide area— from lat. 64° in Nor-
way to the tropic of Capricorn ; in Great Britain it is grown with ad-
vantage as far north as the Moray Firth ; millet is raised in Bretagne,
Tuscany, and a few other localities S. of lat. 45''; maize in Eastern and
Southern Europe, especially Hungary, Spain, and N. Italy. Few Euro-
pean countries afford the requisite heat and moisture for the successful
I
eollivation of rice; but It is grcmi in Spain, Greece, and Italy. Of olhtr
Axxtp^uuti grcwn in Europe, the princiiialaretlie potato, cablHige, turnip,
backwliBat, iie awset potato, and the various leguminona plants, as
pease, beona, lentils, and curoba or St John's bread. The potato can be
raised Dt a considerably higher latitude tbsii nuy of the cereals, and it
forms the highly-ralishHl food of millions of the people from Iceland to
Greeee. Fmit Traea are numerous, especioll; to the S. of the Alps and
Pyrenees. The Tine eirtenda N. to lat 60° — 53°, but the beat wines are
produced between 30° and 45°. Farther north its place is in it great
measure supplied by the various kinds of orchard fruits, as apples, pears,
cherries, ploms, and walnuts ; and in still higher latitudes by the goose-
berry, currant, rasp, and strawberry, and by malt Uqnora. The principal
fruit-trees — figs, almonds, pomegranates, olives, lemons, oranges, peaches,
apricots, mulberries, citrons, stone-pines, and date palnia — are conflned
to the Warm Zone (p. 78).
16. Zoology. — The Fauna of the globe is neually daasified
into six zoological kingdoms, and subdivided into fourteen pio-
vinces, of which one kingdom, including thiee provinces, em-
braces all the animals belonging to this continent. The three
Itrovinces referred to are the Northern, Middle, arid Soutkerti,
the respective limits of which harmonise pretty closely with
those of the three botanical regions described at p. 81.. The
Isothenn of 41° divides the nottnem from the centra province,
and the latter is aeparated from the southern by the Pyrenees
and Alps.
The following table presents a synopsis of the Fanna of Europe as pre-
sently knovm — its Uammals, Birds and Keptiles— the Grst column
showing the name of the order; the second, the total number of
apeciea ; the third, the total European species ; the fourth, tifth,
uid Btitb.thentimbers found in theNorthem, Central, and Southern
provinces reapectivaly.
.,...„
sSr
•^
'
■
Camivora (Fleab-eating),
Mnrsupialia (Ponched Animals),
Eodentia (Gnawing Animals), .
Edentata (Toothless Animals),
PachydeTmata (Thick-sldnned),
202
593
123
604
S9
ISO
75
1
iia
6)
1
17
24
41
16
4
4S
22
0
1
43
'is
"i
9
Total number of Species,
177B
223
01
78
6B
TOLITICAL GEOGKAFBT.
....„
3^
B
M.
-
-
Bap&cea (Birda of Pray), ....
Oscmes (Sonesten)
GallinaceB (SamiuiCMnia Birds), .
Hatatorea (SwimiJiers), ....
Total nnmber of Species, ,
5i
23
23
87
U3
ES
12
■",
S2
81
37
14
123
21
£7
5*
21
'1?
37
6226
490
212
305
^4
Tratnaines (TortoiBM), ....
Saniia (Lirardal,
asafSi?-: : : : ;
Total nnmber of Species,
69
265
120
e
23
■2
3
5
2
la
8
9
15
U
mi
73
10
81
51
—It will ba seen ftvm the above that while tha entira
nnmber of Enropeaa Mammam ia coiupanttivel; email, two orden —
the PoutAtd and Toothleu—an entirely absent ; while other two— the
Fosr-iatided and Tkiri-iHnjud — are each represented by one sotitai?
species— viz., the Barbary Ape, b Qnadrumaiious ommal mhabitLDe the
rock of Gibraltar, and the wild boar, a deniien of Central and SouUiam
Enro[)6. Of the remaining orders, that of the Camraora ia by far the
most important, not merely on account of tha great number of speciea it
contains, but also because niort of them are hostile to man, and bava in
all ages been the objects of his pnrauit, — either on account of the dangers
to which they subject him, or the commercial value of their sldns and *
other products. The order is represented in Enrope by five femiliea, the
names and principal species of which are the following : — The Cheiroptera
or bat family, including the common, the horse-shoe, and the bull-diwhat ;
the Insectlvora, or hedgehogs, shrews, desmans, and moles; the Plan-
tigrada, or bears, badgers, and gluttone ; the Di^tigrada, or polecat,
ermine, weasel, and beech-marten, dog, wolf, foi, jackal, and civet, the
lyni, and wildcat (the lion and tiger are nowhere fonnd In Europe) ;
the Piunipedja or Amphibia, or the otter, common seal, and walrus.
The Rodtniia erabiace the squirrel, beaver, lat, mouse, dormouse, ham-
star, mole, water-rat, vole, and lemming, porcupine, hare, rabbit, and
the pigmy lagomys. The Raminantia are rapreaented by the camel,
deer, reindeer, elk, antelope, Tockgoat, wild sheep, and buffalo. The
Ctlacea include the common Greenland whale, the great northern rorqual,
the spermaceti whale, narwhal, sea -unicorn, porpoise, and commma
grampus.
Bmla. — Europe contains a greater nnmber of birds than any otbw
Mologicol kingdom, with the exception of Tropical America. The M-
r
EUKOPE. S3
IP priucipa! species in enah of the sii onlers : Bii-da of Pity
hiBpriBD vultures, hanl^, ai)daw]a. Clhuhers iuclude swifts, goatsuclieraj
cuckoos, woodpeckers, kuiglisliere, stid hoopoes. Songtla-i—Vtn night-
ingale, blaokhinJ, thrush, linnet, and goldfinch. OaWtnacsoiu Birdt —
the pigeon, capercailzie, red-grouae (the only species of hird peenliar to
the Bntish Men), ptarmigan, partridge, and pheasunt. Wading Birds—
■torks, herona, snipes, ploTera, cranes, rails, hustardii, runners, and
flunlngOBS, fiisimmsri— the duok, swan, goose, grehe, loan, auk, and teni.
SaptilBB. — European reptiles are all uf iiisi^itluant siie as compared
with the gigantic crocodiles, alligators, and boas of the other loological
provinces. Onl^ six species of Torioiie are fonnd, and these are Dearl]'
I'Dooflned to the islands of the Mediterranean ; but the marsh tortoise is
*lnlld as far N. as the middle of (iarmany, the leathery tort^.ise on hoth
^es of the English Channel, and the hawk'a-bill turtle, according to Dr
JiBming, in Shetland. The £izan/» comprise the dianieleon, gecko, iguana,
.true Itaird, ajid skink— the last two of which are found in the British
Idea. SerpiaU are very few in number, and include only two venomoua
apeeies, both of which belong to the genus viper. All the really formid-
wle species are unknown in this continsnt. There are twenty-three
qwciea of Frogs, of which eight are found in the Bcitish Isles. They are
found in higher latitudes than any other order of reptiles, extending as
br north as the head of the Gulf of Bothnia. The European species com-
n EaCB, which is by far the most numerous, derives
its Dame from the region of the Caucasus and Annenis, the ancient
centre from wliich all the existing varieties of men have sprang.
Tbia region is situated in the centre of the Old World, and in the
North Temporato Zone ; is surrounded by the Black Sea, the Caspian,
the Ked Sea, and Mediterranean ; is connected by its noble rivers
with the Persian Gnlf and Indian Ocean ; enjoys a climate of
rare aslnbrity, a soil of f^at richness, and a vegetation of almost
unrivalled luxuriance. Its inhabitants have ever constituted the
highest type of humanity, and near it were located all the most
iUnstrions ontions of ancient and modem times. The Caucasian
race now extends from Iceland and the Atlantic to the Ganges and
BrBhniBpntra. and from the Arctic Circle to the Tropic of Cancer ;
it embiBces Europe, South- Western Asia, and the Korth of Africa,
;ind comprehends lie greater part of the posterity of Japheth and
The Hoaeollaii Race consists of the remaining tribes of the two
great families now mentioned : they people all the remainder of
Asia, together with certain isolated localities of Europe, which they
entered at a much later period, and generally in the character of
tnuideiing hordes. The following are the principal Mongolian tribes
that belong to this continent :— The Finns (inclnding the Finns
Proper, Lapps, Quinians, Esthonians, Wogula, Permians, Tchu-
waaches, Mordwins, and Tcheremesses), eitending from the Cra!
Mountains to the Gnlf of Bothnia and the river Niemen ; the Sak-
DIZDZS between the White Sen. and the river Kara : the Magyaiu or
86 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Htmgariaus, in Hung^ary, allied in form and language to the Finns ;
the Tabtars, inhabiting the region north of the Black Sea and
river Kuban ; the Kalmucks, N. of Mount Caucasus, and between
the mouths of the Vol^ and Don ; and the Turks, in Rumelia, who
form a connecting-link between the Mongolian and Caucasian racet,
more closely allied to the Tartar branch in appearance, but to the
Caucasians m language.
II. Languages. — ^All the languages presently spoken in Europe
belong to two great families — ^the Indo-European and Finno-
Tartarian. Nations belonging to the Caucasian race speak the
former, those of Mongolian origin the latter. The Indo-Euro-
pean tongues spoken in Europe are subdivided into four groups
or classes — ^viz., the Celtic in the W. ; the Teutonic, in the N.
and N.W. ; the Greco-Latin, in the S.; and the Sclavonic, in the
centre and E, All these, together with the remaining branches
of the Indo-European famify presently spoken in Asia, are de-
rived from the Sanscrit, an ancient, copious, and highly-refined
language, spoken at a very remote penod. by a Japnetic nation
who invaded India from the nortn-west, driving the original
inhabitants either to the extreme south of the peninsula, or to
the mountain-fastnesses of the interior, where tney continue to
speak their original barbarous tongues. The original seat of
these invaders has not been definitely ascertained ; but a kin-
dred tribe, who spoke the closely-allied Zend language, were
the earliest inhabitants of Bactria (Persia) ; and boSi were pro-
bably nearly allied to the ancestors of the Celts, Teutons, Sclaves,
and Hellenes, who, before the dawn of history, penetrated into
Europe in separate bodies and at diverse times — ^thus origi-
nating the four groups of lan^ages above enumerated. All
these languages are polysyllabic, mghly inflexional, systemati-
cally refined, copious in their vocabulary, phonetic (not ideo-
graphic) when >vritten, are read from left to right, and bear
many other indications of a common origin.
Celtio Languages. — Of the four groups now enumerated, the Celtic
appears to be the most ancient. It differs very considerably from the
Sanscrit, and more from each of the other three groups than tbey
differ from each other. Celtic nations formed the vanguard of the
great Japhetic army that, before the dawn of history, migrated west-
ward, and became the earliest inhabitants of Europe. For the
most part they entered that continent on the north side of the
Mediterranean ; ascended the Danube and Save ; settled in lllyria,
the Tyrol, Switzerland, Belgium, France, and the British Isles ;
though some of their number migrated westward along the south
side of the Mediterranean, and entered Spain by the Strait of Gib-
raltar. This migration occupied many centuries, and before it was
concluded the main body became divided into two great sections
i
I
EUROPE. 87
(the Gatl and the ST^/inrt), wlio, iu the coarse of ages, cnme to apeak
langoasea unintelligible to ench other, thoogh closely allied both
fzlossanftllj Dud gr(imniB.ticall7. These are the Gaelic and the
ETDuic ; each of wMch, in the course of time, branched off inU
Biree dialects (p, lOfiJ :—
Oaelic ov Era Bnmck, laclndiog
Irish, spoken in Ireland.
Scottish Gaelic, in North and West of Scotland.
Maox, in Isle of Man.
Ej/mrit Branch, or Andntt Bntiih;
Welsh, in the principality ot Wales.
Cornish, in Corawnll (now extinct).
Breton or Annoric, in Bi'etagne.
Anamt ioco(t(ies.— Thougli the Coltio languages ore now conDned
IU the British Isles and the north-western comer of France, they were
jpohen at one time OTer a large portion of Europe. At tlie oomnionce-
ntent of the Christian era, Celtic nnd Gothic nations divided all Western
£QTope between them ; and were separated from each other by the
Khine, which BtUl, in a great meaanre, forms the boundary between the
races, though not between the languages. For a lengtboaed period both
branches of the Celtic have been diaappeu^ng before the more highly
cultiTated English and French. Yet they are highly expressive and
ouphonioua tongues ; they conie down to us ait mouumeols of tho most
Temote antiquity, and of late liave become objects of the deepest interest
to philologislSj who discover in them most precious materials for iUus-
tralmg the science of comparative gmmmar. From five to six millions
ol penons preaently speak dialects of Geltio— viz. Irish, 3,000,000 at
htmie, and I,000.<H>U abroad ; Scottish Gaelic, 400,000 !□ Scotland, and
100,000 in the colonies; Welsh, 700,000 in Wales, and 50,000 in the
ciUes of Bagland ; Armoric, 800,000 in France.
Phi/nola/ttal and, Intetleeiual CAarmfsr.— The pnre Celt is of middle
size and sjender make ; sallow complexion ; block hair, rarely curled,
bnt turning grey at an early age ; grey or dark-brown oyea ; face and upper
part of the aknll oval ; chest narrow ; legs slightly curved innards ; ftet
anall; temt^erament bilicus, or bilious-nervous. Quick In perception,
with great powers of combination and application ; sensitive, proud,
irasdble, but easily calmed; fond of equality, society, and military
glorr; polite, hospitable, brave, but superstitious ; incautious and iiu-
pmdent.
Teutonic Langnages. — These bare all a cloae resemblance to each
other, both in tiieir roots and inHi^ions, and are intimately allied to
the Sanscrit. Anciently they were highly inflexional, like the Greco-
Latin family, but nov employ auzUiaries for the conju^tion of
- .Verb* and prepositions for the infiexions of noana. Though not so
" " as the Greek, or even the Sclavonic tongues, they are bold,
„ i, andcai>able of expressing all shades of thoaght. We first
jd Teutonic nations in the region S. of the Caspian Sea in the eighth
ntDT]'' before Christ. It was to this region that the ten laraelit-
lll tlibes were transported by the King of Assyria, B.C. 721. In
U likelihood the two peoples amalgamated. Then commenced their
~ ■ t nlisTation westnard, so ably delineated by Sharon Turner in
88 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
his • History of the Anglo-Saxons.' Possessed of indomitable energy
and force of character, the Teutonic nations either subjugated or
drove before tiiem such Celtic tribes as they came in contact with.
In the fourth century they overthrew the great Roman Empire,
and they have almost invariably been able to retain possession of
the territories they have once acquired. Their deep and patient
reflection has led to the most important inventions and sublimest
discoveries of modem times, as the watch, gun, steam-engine, art
of printing, and the law of gravitation ; and to this race belong
the brightest names of modem science and literature, as Newton,
Milton, Shakespeare, Bacon, Luther, Goethe, Humboldt, and Liebig.
The Teutonic languages, like the Celtic, branch off into two main
sections.
Oerman Branch, including
German, in Germany, Switzerland, and United States.
Dutch, in the Netherlands and Cape Colony.
Flemish, in the North of Belgium and N. Brabant.
English, in British Isles, British Colonies, and United States.
Scnndmavum Branch, including
loelandio, in Iceland.
Faroese, in the Faroe Isles.
Norse, in Norway and Denmark.
Swedish^ in Sweden.
Scotch, m Lowlands of Scotland.
JSxtinct Langttages of this Class. — Gothic, Alemannic, Old Saxon,
and Anglo-Saxon, the last of which is the parent and basis of the
modem English.
Ancient Localities. — Media, Germany, between the Rhine and Elbe ;
the southern part of Scandinavia ; Bulgaria and Servla. The Teutonic
tribes that most distinguished themselves in the Middle Ages were, the
Franks, Burgundians, Alemans, and Visi-Goths, in Gaul ; Gfoths, Longo-
bards, and Hemli, in Italy ; Vandals and Ostro-Goths, in Spain; Angles,
Jutes, and Saxons, in England.
Physioloffical Character. — ^Above middle size, and disposed to coipu-
lency ; chest broad ; bones thick ; legs straight ; feet often huge and
clumEHT ; great strength of muscle ; fair complexion, with flaxen, reiddish,
or golden-coloured hair ; large blue eyes ; ruddy cheeks ; broad, high
brow ; skull larger and rounder than the Celtic variety ; temperament
sanguine and phlegmatic
InteUecttud and Moral Charader. — Slow but accurate in perception ;
great depth and penetration of mind, but not so sparkling and bnlliant
as the Celt ; strong desii*e for personal independence and political self-
government; cautious, reserved, and provident; hospitaole. but not
very sociable ; fond of titles and social distinctions ; haughty, over-
bearing disposition, and reckless of the rights of other nations ; sincere:
forgetful of injuries ; skilful seamen ; fond of spirituous liquors ; great
musical talent.
Sclavonio Languages. — This family of languages belongs to the
centre and east of Europe. With the exception of Hnngaiy, Mol- '
davia, and Wallachia, they extend without interrnptioii £ci>m thtt
I
I
EUROPE. 89
filack Sea to tlie. Baltio, and from the Adriatic to the Yenisei ; they
(icaup7 more than a. third part of Europe, and are spolcea by about
70,000,000 of people. Though not immediately doriyed from the
Sanaciit, thej bear to it a very close affinity, and resemble it more
neatly than any other Indo-European family, esceptthe Greco-Latin
and Indian branches. They are distinguiphed by the lichneas of their
TDcaholary, by their fjreat abundance of aynonyms, and by their
numerans inflesiona, irhich are placed bnth at the beginning and end
of nords. The laat-mentionEd property imparts to them a great
facility of creating from each radical an extraordinary number of
derivatiTes ; from uatiTe roots tboy easily form all tboae technical
and Bciontifie terms n-bich the languanea of Weatem Europe derive
Iromthe Greet and Latin. In the number of their declensions, tensea.
Bad participles, they excel all other European languages ; and they
posaesa such expressiveness and energy that they are capable ofre-
preaecting every object of the imagination in a manner not inferior
to the most highly 'Cultivated modern tonguee. The inferior eEtimate
usually formed of their euphony and sonoronBuees mainly arises from
the attempt to express in Itoman letters sounds that are wholly
peculiar to the Sclavonic languages. Like the two former families,
the Solavonio tongues are arranged under two brauehes.
•SaK&-Eailxrji Brandt, including
Husaian, in the great plain of North-Eaatem Europe.
Ruasmak, in Galicia. Hungary, Volhynln, Podolia.
Balgoriim, Senian, Dalmatian, CroatiaQ, Bosnian— all in the basin
of the Lower Danube, and on the Drave and Have.
Weodiah, middle of Lower Germany.
JV'ortA- Weilem Branch-
Polish, in Poland, on the Vistula and Siemen.
Bohemian, or Tchelihian, in Bohemia and Muravla.
A nia, Vaitdah, Fenrti, and FeiuSi, all of whom were descendanta of the
ancient Sarmnts. In the stith century of our era they began to ascend
the basin of the Danube, and to form aettlements on both aides of that
river : since then they are frequently mentioned by tbs Byzantine histo-
riam aa performing an important put in European history.
fhytiologicai Character. — In stature stout, broad, and squat-built ;
Deck short and thick ; bardy in constitution, with strong hooes and
(todght muscular limbs ; coraplaiion sallow, forming a mean between
tha Gothic and Celtio races ; eyes erey or hazel-brown, and deeplv set in
tha head ; hair bristly, dark, of dinecent abades, and rarely cnrled; skull
and faoQ square and angnlar ; chsek-bonea promiuent ; brow low, and tlie
bail growmg far down on it ; temperament phlegmatic, or sanguine-
IhIIous.
90 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Tntelleetucd and Moral Character. — Great mechanical, musical, and
imitative talent ; frank and open when in the enjoyment of freedom, but
cunning, deceitful, and revengeful when subjected; their statesmen be-
come admirable diplomatists ; originally leading a nomadic life, they are
still attached to the patriarchal form of government ; blindly obedient to
their sovereign, who is regarded as a father ; extremely tenacious of the
manners and prejudices of their ancestors. They are further characterised
by a want of cleanliness ; by their love of lyrical, and especially elegiac,
song ; and above all, by their invincible hatred of;the Teutonic race, who
have oppressed them for a thousand years, as well as by their long-
cherished aspirations after Pansclavism.
Greco-Latin Langnages. — ^These comprehend all the languages
derived from the ancient classical tongues of Greece and Borne. They
are spoken over the entire south of Europe, from the Atlantic to the
Dniester, and from the southern limits of Germany to the Mediter-
ranean— ^with the exception of the northern portion of the Hellenic
peninsula, the Basque Provinces, and Bretagne. All the larger
islands of the Mediterranean, except Malta, are peopled by nations
speaking Greco-Latin tongues. The origin of the Greeks and Latins,
in common with that of tne Celts, Goths, and Sclaves, is lost in the
darkness of the pre-historic period. Modem ethnographic science,
however, leaves little doubt that the two nations referred to were,
respectively, the earliest inhabitants of Greece and Italy ; that they
stood to each other in the closest affinity, both of them being the
immediate descendants of the Pelasgi, who appear to have formed
the first great wave of population that broke on the shores of south-
eastern Europe, and tnat permanently covered Asia Minor, Thrace,
Macedonia, Greece, and Italy. This migration probably took place
about 2000 B.C., but was succeeded by numerous similar migrations
of the same stock of nations (including the Hellenes, who were no
doubt nearly allied to, if not identical with, the Pelasgi) down to 1350
B.C. In subsequent centuries other great bodies of colonists appear
to have entered Europe from other parts of Asia, forming the ances-
tors of the Celtic, Teutonic, and Sclavonic nations ; but the Pela^
formed, from the very first, the great bulk of the population of Itaty
and Greece. The part of A^sia from which the Pelasgi set out appears
to have been Korthem India ; for the Sanscrit, the ancient and sacred
language of India, has a marked and very decided affinity to both
Greek and Latin. The Greek, especially, is more closely allied to the
Sanscrit than any other European tongue. In some respects, how-
ever, the Latin sui*passe3 the Greek in retaining the features of its
venerable parent, and it is in no way to be regarded as a descendant,
far less a corraption, of the language of Greece. They are sister-
tongues, deriving from their common parent every feature in which
they resemble each other ; but exhibiting many differences, arising
from the different fortunes of each.*
* For the precise relation in which the two ancient classical tongues stand to
each other, we may refer to Bopp's ' Comparative Grammar of the Indo-European
Languages ; ' to Latham, * On the English Language ; ' and (what is more in-
teresting and satisfactory than either) to the article " Language" in the * Fenny
Cyclopsedia.'
EUROPE. 91
I Ortil, or Eattern BiimrJi—
Ancient Greek— Spokan in Greeca fiom the Earliest times, and afl*r-
vrarda in numerous other countries.
Modem Greek or Romaic— Greece, the ArcMpalaEO, and parts of Die
Tnrkish Enjpira.
liOiin, or Western Bra-tek —
^K ^cient Iiatin — Now a dead language, ivas tlie original langni^ of
^h Ttaly, and afteroards spread over lie greater port of Uie Bmoan.
Empire.
Italian — Italy, part of Switzerland, Corsica, Sardinia, Sicily, &0.
Spanish — Spain, Canaria, Cuba, Mexico, Spaniih Aiuriea, Philip-
pine liUi, &c.
PortngnaBB— Portagal, Madeira, Ainres, Brnat, io.
French — ftance, (mannel Isles, parts of Belgium and Bwitzerland,
Lovee Canadii, LouirUinfi, A Ipsria, W. ladies, fi^enj^h GuiaMa,
Willachian— Wallachia, Uoldavis, Bessarabia, TnmsylTania.
Aneient Lecalitia. — No other language, ancient or modem, has bean
TO widely diffused ss tlie Greek, cseept Arabic and Englisli. Gm««,
' na Minor, Macedoaia, Thsasaly, and Epims were its earlieat eeats : it
w difioaed by the early Greek colonies along both eides of the Mediter-
- ■ 1, m Cjrene, SyrBcnsB, Tarentum, and Srajrna ; was extended by
nder and his enccessDis to a large portion of WEstem Asia, inclnd-
ig AeitL Minor, Syria, and the cities of Palestine ; and was Epoken in
manj parts of Egypt under the Ptolemies. The conquest of Greece hy
the R(nnanB, B.O. 146, tended still further to its difioBlon, while luider
tha C^eaari it was more erteneively oultivateil than at any fonuer time.
Alter the fall of the Western Empire, and the extinction of learning in
tlui West, Greek Lt«rature and plulosophy found an asylum in Constan-
tbMipie, till that city was taken by the lurks, A.I). 1463 ; at which tima
it erased to be spoken in its purity anywhere. It utill, however, re-
mained a living languid in its original home ; and even to this day the
modem Grcfllca can peruse with comparative ease the pToductions of
Homer, Xenophon, and Demosthenes. In short, ithaaiemainedaliviug
loJ^ni^ for the aatoniahing period of 3000 years. The Latin, in like
manner, was the principal language of Italy from the earlieat times. As
the Bomao power extended, it hecame more and mora widely diffused, in
many cases mingling with and remoulding tho dialects of Uie conquered
nstlonB, and thus originating the modem languages of Sonthem Europe.
After the fall of the Boinan Empire It ceased to be a spokeu language,
but during the lengthened period of the miridle ages it continued to
maintain its supremacy as the langua^ of llteniture, philosophy, legis-
lation, and religion. Since the eatabUshiiient of the papal hierarchy to
■'■■-■- ant day, it has maintained its place as the liturgical languago of
iah Church ; and it ifl stOl eitensively cultivated by every civUiaed
m account of the treasures contained in the vast repoeitones of Its
■n Lai^vagee helmrning to tkii Slaci. — The Romaic differs little
re &oia ancient Greek tten some of the dialects of that language dif-
)d tnm each other ; and the changes that have ariaon are more per-
lUble In the grammar than in the vocabulary. Ttie mahi differences
' '~"~g between the various languages of the Koman branch arise
92
POLITICAL GEOGRAPUV.
mainly from the different character of the languages spoken in these
localities before the Latin was engrafted on the original stock. Italian^
Spanish, and French have diverged from the parent stem far more widely
than the Romaic from the ancient Greek. The French has effected the
widest separation, and the Italian and Spanish the least ; while the Por-
tuguese may be regarded as almost a dialect of the Spanish, the two
languages being radically identical. Though the basis of the Wallachian
is altered Latin, about one-half of its words are derived from Greek,
Turkish, and Sclavonlan sources. The Albanian is so different from every
other member of this family that it seems doubtful whether it can claim
a place among them. It contains the remains of a language now long
extinct, but which probably formed a connecting-link between various
families of tongues, more especially between the Greco -Latin and
Sclavonic
III. Religions op Europe. — These, thougli extremely nu-
merous, may all be reduced to three classes, which harmonise
in a very remarkable manner with the races and groups of lan-
guages above described. The Caucasian race are Christians ;
the Mongolian race. Heathens ; while the Turks, who form a
connecting-link between these races, profess Mohammedanism —
a religion which equally connects Christianity with Paganism ;
and what is still more remarkable, Teutonic nations have em-
braced Protestantism — ^that is, Christianity reformed from the
abuses of centuries ; the Celtic and Greco-Latin nations profess
Catholicism ; while those speaking Sclavonic tongues belong to
the Greek Church.
To the latter generalisation, however, there are some important
exceptions ; because language does not strike so deeply into the roots
of humanity as race does. Language shares in the fortunes of the
nation that speaks it, and is subject to numberless vicissitudes;
while the stamp derived from race remains indelible for ages.
Accordingly we find considerable sections of the Celtic nations be-
coming Protestants, as the Scottish Gael and the Welsh ; Austria,
though speaking a Teutonic language, largely professes OathoUcism ;
the Magyars, a Mongolian race, and speaking a Mongolian language,
are to a large extent Protestants ; and the inhabitants of Greece,
instead of belonging to the Roman Catholic, are stanch adherents
of the Greek Church. The following table shows the estimated
numbers belonging at present to the different races and religious
denominations of Europe :—
BaC£.
Religiok.
Celtic, pure and mixed .
Teutonic do.
Sclavonic do.
Mongolian and Tartar .
Jewish . . . .
Gypsies, Ac. .
80,000,000
103,000,000
72,000,000
28,000,000
4,400,000
1,249,000
Bonian Catholic . . 140,000,000
Greek Church . . 68,000,000
Protestant . . 68.600,000
Mohammedan & Heathen 6,600,000
Jews, .... 4,400,000
Gypsies, &c. . . . 1,149,000
Total of Europe, .
288,649,000
288,649,000
H THE BRITISH EMPIRE.
■* The Britiali Empire ia the largest, the most powetfiil, and
■ with one eiception, the moat populoua on the surface of the
■ 'Carth. In extent of territorj it even exceeds the BusEion Em-
r pire ; in point of popidation it is eeooiid only, to the Chinese ,
■while in wealth, civilisation, and moral influence, it has no
rival. Its ma^tude, however, will be more eaaOy realised hy
comparing it with the other largest states in both hemispheres
According to the most recent statistics, the dates of which are
giTen ill detail in the following table, the area of the BritiBh
Empire, inclnding the Protected Statea of India, amounts to
next largest empire is that of £iis^ia, which has an area of
nearly 8,000,000 eq. m., and a population of 83,260,000 ; the
area of the Chinese Empire is estimated at 4,423,000 sq. m., and
the popniation at 435,000,000 ; while the fourth in size ia the
United States of America, with an area (including Alaska) o
■Ve include the Tributary States of India, the Empire embraces
1 full sixth of the land surface of the globe, and a Sfth of tho
Table of Bkitish PosaESSiONS.
Niuna
Capitol.
Englisll
sq.m.
in ISTl.
Britiah Isles or United 1
nSiS. . *.
Qibraliar, .
Malta, ....
London
VBletta
Calcutti
as?
Victoria
122,550
G
2
142
31,817.108
1,913
25,218
149,084
Total in Europe, • .
122,699
31,993,321
Aden and Perim. .
Britah India [18721, .
Protected St«tes, ,
Straits Settlemeuts, .
Hong Kong, .
20
»0i,D49
648,695
1,208
2i,i5i
32
45
29.730
190,663,048
48,267,900
308,097
ai05,287
124 193
4:898
1
Total in Asia,
1,476.B01 [241,703,168
1
:■ •ForCTPnn,u™HdtoUieBritisJj»iJplreiElBT8,ieepp.S6(lMii«».
«l
94
POLITICAL 6E0GKAPHT.
Name.
Capital
Area in
English
sq. m.
Popnlfttion
inlSTL
Oambia,
Bathurst
21
14,190
Sierra Leone,
Freetown
468
38,681
Gold Coast and Lagos, .
Lagos
11,000
582,091
Cape Colony, includ-'\
ing British Kafraria, f
Basntnland, Griqua* f
Capetown
218,410
720,000
land West, 1875, )
Natal, ....
Pietermaritzburg
11,172
298,832
Mauritius, Amirantes, )
Seychelles, &c. . )
Port-Louis, &c.
708
330,460
St Helena and Ascen- )^
sion, j
Total in Africa,
Dominion of Canada — \
Jamestown, &c.
82
6,268
241,861
1,985,622
Canada, Nova Sco-
tia, New Bninswick,
Prince Edward Is-
land, British Col- /
Ottawa
3,513,325
3,718,745
tunbia, Manitoba,
and N. W. Terri-
tory, /
Newfoundland,
St John's
40,200
146,536
Bermudas, .
Hamilton
24
15,809
British Honduras,
Balize
13,500
24,710
West India Islands,
Spanish Town, &c
13,109
1,061,040
British Guiana,
George Town
76,000
193,491
Falkland Isles,
Total in America, .
New South Wales (1874),
Stanley Harbour
Sydney
Melbourne
6,600
803
3,662,758
5,160,634
323,437
503,981
Victoria (1874), .
86.831
729,868
South Australia (1874),
Adelaide
383,328
188,995
West AustraUa (1874), .
Perth
978,000
24,785
Queensland (1874),
North Australia (unco- )
Ionised), j
Brisbane
678,000
160,000
623,531
Tasmania (1874), .
Hobart Town
26,215
98,455
New Zealand (1874), .
Wellington
106,259
340,000
Aukland & Norfolk Isles,
166
481
Fiji Isles,
Total in Oceania,
Total British Empire,
8,034
148,040
3,118,801
2,194,605
8,617,620
283,037,240
GENERAL VIEW OF THE BEITISH ISLES.
Position and Boundariea. — The British IbIgb, or United
Kingdom, of Great Britain and Ireland, form an extensive arclit-
pelago in the North Atlantic Ocean, at a email distance &oni
the western ahorea of Central Enrope, from whinh it is aeya-
rated hv the Nortli Sen, the Strait of Dover, and the Englisk
Channel. It consists of two large islanda^Great Britain, ajid
Ireland — and of nboat 6500 smaller ialanda and rocks. Of
these, 600 are contiguous to Great Britain, and 5000 to Ireland,
At the date of the last general census, only 420 of them were
fovmd inhabited — 175 of which were adjacent to Great Britain,
and 246 to IteUnd.
Fonn. — The general ontline is very irregiiUr ; hut omitting the
Shetland, Norman, and Scilly Isles, it appi'oxiins.t«s to the form of
a scalene triangle, vrith its longest side turned to the eRst, and its
shortest to the south. The group, as a whole, is broken up into n
unmber of smsllec ones, which aminge themselves, either singly or
in clusters, aronad the larger islands. Thus, Great Britain is sur-
roandfld by the Otkoey and Shetland lalea, the Outer and lunar
Hebrides, Bute and Arran, Isle of Man. Anoleaaa, Seilly Tales, and
Isle of Wight; while Ireland is in like mannar accompanied by
Bathlin Island, Tony Island, Arraomare, AchU Island, Clare Islam!,
Valencia, and Cape Clear. The east coast of Great Britain is singu.
Inriy destitute of Islands ; and the arrangement into clusMrs is mors
Dharaeteristio of the British than of the Irish Islands.
Aisa and DtmenBtani. — Situated between 49" 13' and SO* iV K.,
and between 1° 46' E. and 10° Sff W. Ion., the entire archipelago oo-
ciipieBlli''of laC and 12i°Ion. The trapezium formed by thepaial.
lela and meridians that pass through its extreme points is thus 3D0
milea lone, from north to Bouth, with an avenigB breadth of 490
miles. The square content of this trapezium is about 392,000 square
miles, but more than two-thirds of it is covered with water ; ana. the
actual area of the land is only I22,BB0 square miles, or Jf of the
area of continental Europe. Great Britain is the largest island in
Europe, and the seventh largest in the world, being only exceeded
by Anstralia, Berueo, Papua, Sumatra, Niphon, and Madagascar.
Its length is 60S miles, breadth 280 ; area 83,826 sq. mOea, or. in-
duding the adjaceot islands, 90,033 aq. miles = 58,000,000 imperial
acres, or ^ part of Enrope.
Extrems Points. — Unst, in Shetland, is the most northern part
of the British archipelago ; Jersey, in the Channel Isles, the most
■onthem ; Lowestoft Ness, in Suffolk, the most esstcm ; and Bias-
Hint I., in Kerry, the most western.
f The lODBBrt day in Jeisey is three hours shorter than m Shetlaud,
96 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
where, at the summer solstice, it is 19 hours long. Here a "bright twi-
light continues all night, and books of a small type may be easily read at
midnight. The sun rises on the E. coast of England 49 minutes earlier
than on the W. coast of Ireland. Greenwich time, therefore, which is
now followed on all the railways of Great Britain, would be greatly at
fault if extended to the sister island.
Comparative Position. — The parallel of latitude which passes
through Unst, in the extreme N. of the archipelago, proceeds east-
ward through Christiania, Stockholm, St Petersburg, and Yakutsk ;
and westward across C. Farewell in Greenland, and Mount St Elias
in Alaska; the parallel of Jersey in the extreme S. proceeds east-
ward to Paris and Vienna ; and westward along the northern boun*
dary of the United States : while the central parallel of 55" passes
over Londonderry, Newcastle, Copenhagen, Moscow, Tomsk, and
Nain in Labrador. The central meridian (of 4° 23' W.) runs con-
siderably to the east of the FarSe group, through Anglesea and Corn-
wall, between Brest and Madrid, and 1** E. of Gibraltar.
Population. — In 1801, the year of our first regular census, the
population of the British Isles amounted to 15,942,646. By the
census of 1871, the population amounted to 31,817,108, being one-
tenth of the population of Europe, or 259 persons to each sq. m.
Thus, while in the United States the population doubles itself in
25 years, in the United Kingdom it scarcely doubles itself in 70
years. This comparatively slow rate of increase arises from
various causes, the principal of which have been emigration and
famine. In the year last named, the population of Eneland was
22,704,108; that of Scotland, 3,360,018; and that of Ireland,
6,402,759.
An immense tide of emigration is constantly leaving our shores. In
1867 there emigrated from the British Isles, 195,953 — or 537 per day. Of
these, 159,000 went to the United States^ 14,000 to Australia^ and 15,600
to British America. Since the year ISlo, the number of emigrants from
the United Kingdom has amounted to 6,302,345 ; while in the ten years
1858-67, it averaged 162,000 per annum. The destruction of the potato
crop in 1846-7, and the consequent famine in Ireland and the Hignlands
of Scotland, had a mighty effect in reducing the population. In Ireland
alone it is estimated that 1,000,000 of the people died of famine and
disease in two years, while a million more emigrated. In Great Britain
alone the population has more than doubled during the last half-oentury.
In 1801 it was 10,578,000, including the adjacent islands; it is now
26,062,721. This gives 289 persons to every sq. m., and 2f acres of land
to every person. This dense population is equally divided between town
and country, there being about 124 millions in each. The number of
cities, county towns, and market towns in the island is 815, of which 580
are in England and Wales, with an average population of 17,300 ; and 225
in Scotland, with an average population of 8000.
Climate.— As compared with other countries of the same latitude,
the climate of the British Isles, though variable, is remarkably mild
and salubrious. There is no country in Europe where a working
man can prosecute his employment out of doors for a greater number
of days in the year, or of hours in the day. Surrounded by the
ocean on all sides, and having a branch of the Gulf Stream flowing
THE RRITISH ISLES. 07
■loug its western sbores, the Bemi iiiinual temporature is greatly
liigher than its geographital position in tlie middle of tlie North
Tetnpomts Zona would iudicato. Or the six isothermal nones inlo
■which thfl meteorologist divides onr hemiBphBre — viz., the oqua-
torial, WBm, mild, cool, cold, and friffid — the United Eingdoni is
I ritnatad ia that one which, on the whole, is most desirable.
1 bounded by
mean annnal
ipentnre of 49°. The mean teinperatnrfl of Unst, in ShetlBiid, Is
.7, and of Penzance in Coruwail, o3°; thus showing a difference of
in annnal temperature between the two estreraitiBs of the amhipelago
7* Fahr., and a general average for the whole of iS".?. In no other
— ' — either in the Old or New World, does so Sigh a mean tompeni-
Sond with so hi^h a latitude. For Biample, Edmbureh, Mos-
lin in Labrador, are situated nearly on the same panilie] : bnt
-while the mean temperature of Edinburgh is 17°.13, at Uoacow it is 40°,
Bud at Nsin 27°.S. Hence it appeals that the Britisli Isles possess a mean
temparature of 7° higher than correapondiDg latitudes on the eastern, and
of 90* higher than corresponding latitudes on the western coocinent.
The winter teifiperatura is slil] more dissimilar, being at Edinburgh
38°,16, at Moscow 15°.e, and at Nain 3°. 7. Our winter is therefore 33°
Tiia. warmer t);an at Moscow, and Sfi" warmer than in the corresponding
latitude of the eastern side of North America.
The lutherm of SO*, which nearly expresses the mean annual tempei-
mture of the British leles, in no part of the world attains eo high a fati-
tnda aa in Ireland, where it ascends, in the centre of the island, nearly ■
to the paxallel otDublin, in lat 63° 21'. From this ^mt it rapidly de-
icenda m its passage eastward and westward— in the tormer, passing near
London 61° am, Paria 48° SO', Vienna 48° 13', Astrakhan 16° 13', and
P«kin39°68'; and in the latter. New York 41° 6', and the mouth ufthe
Colombia 46°. These places are, on an averse, 8^°, and one of them
(Pflkin) no less than 13^°, farther south than Dublin. So great, indeed,
is the inBuence of onr insular situation, of our mild westerly winds, and
of the general drainage and cultivation of our soil, that the British Isles
are fully as healthy as any country in the world, and onr vegetation un-
rivalled under the same degree of latitude. Not only is our mean tem-
Cture very high, but the ransi of Itmperatyri is very small ; the dif-
ice between the temperature of the hottest and coldest mouths being
only about 34°, while at Berlin it is 38°, and at Moscow and St Pete:«-
bnrg no less than 57°. Hence we are exempted from those v' '"'
iniurions to health and to animal and vegetable life,
in Ireland the >— — ■ ' -■ "- "
Accordingly, v . „ , .
ur aa in Portugal, com will not ripen in Labrador under the same lati<
tude, and only hardy kitchen vegetablea can be raised. Summer, in
the British Isles, comprises the months of June, July, and Aof^st ;
antnmn, September, October, November, and tiie first half of Decem-
ber; winter, half of December, Januai?, February, and the half ol
March ; and spring, the latter half of March, April, and May. July ia
the hottest month.
The Prevailing Tinds am westerly for nine months of the year ; but
In March, April, Slay, and Nov. they are often easterly or nortiierly, and
tW« aaason of the year is peculiarly trying to invalids, especially to
tbrae afflicted with consumption. Tlie average taH of Tain over
■Uie mtlre archipelago is above 40 in., but it ia much greater on the W.
98 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
than on the E. coast of both Great Britain and Ireland — the mean fall of
rain on tiie east coast of the former being 27.4 inches, and of the latter
29.7 inches ; while on the west coast of the larger island it is 45.5, and
of the smaller 47.4 inches. The average number of rainy days on the
east coast is 165, and on the west 208. This great difference of climate
between the E. and W. sides arises from the configuration of the land
and the general prevalence of westerly winds charged with va^ur from
the Atlantic. These winds, striking against the colder mountam-ranges,
lose their moisture and originate nearly all the principal rivers in both
islands. In some parts of Westmoreland and Cumberland, as much as
100 inches of rain fall annually ; at Seathwaite, in the latter county, the
fall amounts to 141 inches ; whereas at London, on the eastern side of
the island, it is only 24, at Cambridge 20, Shields 26, Edinburgh 25,
and Dubl^ 80.8 inches. The limit of perpetual snow in the S. of the
archipelago is estimated at 6334 feet, on the central parallel 5034 feet,
and in Shetland 3818 feet.
The mean Height of the Barometer at London at sea level and at
32^ Fahr. is 29.956 inches, at Glasgow 29.829 inches, and in Orkney
29.791 inches. The barometric range is very great, especially in the
N. of the archipelago, being in Orkney 3 inches. The varicUion or
declination of ike magnetic needle is much greater on the W. coast than
on the E. At London in 1580 the needle showed an E. declination of IV
36' ; in 1663 it was at zero. From that year it gradually tended west-
ward till it reached its maximum declination of 24° 41' in 1818.
Since then it has steadily diminished, being 22° 30^ in 1850, and 20*16'
W. in 1868. -Calculating from these data we learn that in our country
the needle makes one complete oscillation of 49" 22' in 810 years. The
dip or inclination undergoes a secular variation of a similar land. At
London, in 1820, it was 70° 3', and in 1868, 67° 54', diminishing by
about 2'. 6 annually. Lastly, the magnetic intensity, which is found to
increase with the latitude, is at London 1.372; at the equator, 1.087;
Naples, 1.274; Paris, 1.348; St Petersburg, 1.410; Spitzbei^en, 1.567.
Geology. — By far the greater part of the surface of the
British Isles is occupied by sedimentary and fossiliferous strata,
ranging from the Silurian to the Tertiary. Igneous and meta-
morphic rocks prevail mainly in Scotland — a country which is
also characterised by the preponderance of Silurian strata, by the
extent and importance ol its newer Palaeozoic rocks, embracing
all the formations from the Devonian to the Permian, and by
the absence, for the most part, of strata belonging to the Mesozoic
and Tertiary series.
England possesses in greatest abundance those formations of
which Scotland is most destitute ; for while only a small portion of
her surface is covered by the older Palaeozoic — viz., the north-
western and south-western counties — the Secondary formations are
widespread and highly developed, as are also the newer Palaeozoic
strata, to which her unrivalled coal-fields belong. The Chalk and
Tertiary series are mainly confined to the south-eastern counties,
especially to the basins of the Thames and Ouse. The Oolite, Lias,
and Trias occupy nearly all the remainder of the country, especially
the north-eastern and central counties from the eastern frontier of
THE BRITISH ISLES, 99
° Wales to the Noiili Sea ; but tho north of England, from Dcrliy to
Berwiuk, id covered with the Coal-measures and tho Ciirboaiferoiia
limestone. WaJea conaists, for the moat part, nf Silurian and
DevaDiBit Btrsta, hut tlie Coal-measures in the south Ota extensive
tuid valnable.
A. most intflroBting cin^aniBtAnee connected with the geology of Eog-
Und and Wales, and one which will ^eatly facilitate the mastering of the
details, is the order in which the diffen .
ciidly in the broadest part of the kingdom. Supposioe a geologist (o set
oat from the Cambrian rooks of the west want of PemlirokeahirB, and to
lavel eastward till he arrives at the Tertiary deposits of Norfoll:, he will
o passed in review all the systems and formations of the entire fos-
IB series, and that, too, precisely in the order in which they are
, ., d in geological treotiaea, or in which they would he seen were a
■wmplEte geoloracal section of the earth's crust pi'Bsenlfld to his viewl
^^iB order would ho precisely the sams should ho make another escuision
Irom Berwick to London along the coast, or even in a direct line, save
that a few of tho lower terms of the series would be wanting. Probably
there is no coautry in the world, of equal extent, in which a siniilar snc-
cesilon conld he fomid.
Ireland ia essentially a Palaeozoic country. Carhoniferous lime-
itone covers a large portion of the surface, and the Silurian nad
Devonian the remainder ; only that sjiteDslve tracts of trap and
granite prevail atone the coasts — the former covering the entire
north-east of ITlater between the Lagan and Lough Foyle, and the
latter the greater part of the counties Wicklow, Carlow, Galwav,
and Donegal. Coal is found in many places, hnt the workable hedg
are of inconsiderable extent, and the quality is oommonlj inferiort
The geology of the British Isles presents an admirable epitome of
the geology of the friobe ; and it has been more thoroughly investi-
Ci than any other equally extensive portion oE the earth's sur-
Details, however, would be nut of place here, more espe<;ial!y
after the somewhat ample consideration given to the subject at
pp. 41-S2 ; hut the prevailing character! ptics of the geology of each
of the coanties will be found briefly indicated in the " Descriptive
Notw" to England, Scotland, and Ireland.*
Idmuls. — The minercils of the United Eingdom are a
Bonrce of immBnae wealth, and, both in i^nantity and commerciail
value, greatly surpasa those of any other countrj'. The chief of
ihae are coal, iron, salt, limestone, building-Btonea, copper,
lead, tin, silver, and zinc.
i^onotnii; valne, is found
; though some of them,
in BQch small qusntltiea
as, for eiarople, gold and quicksilve
• Tia tarthet details we mast refer the stndent to the works of BLr Boderick
Ifniclilsan, »r Clisrlea Lvi-11, Mr Hugh Miller. Dr Vug'- ^od Barectnllylo the
huntiflil " Geological and Pileonlulugieal Hap of the BrlClBb IsLuida,'' edited
tivDr Keith Johnitnn. from matecinls supplied by the IsteUunenl '" "
Blwanl Furhes, forming Mate- " -- ''■ -' ■'-- — -"
fsr/,";
it deposits of eiceUeat coal were discovered at
r Walettort ia vai.
100 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
as scarcely to repay the labour of extracting them. Coad and inm are
the two commodities that have contributed most largely to raise our
country to the high eminence to which it has attained among neigh-
bouring nations. The coal-fields are not confined to any special
locality, but are distributed in all directions over both the main
islands. In England they commence at Northumberland, and ex-
tend through Durham, York, Lancashire, and Staffordshire into
South Wales. In Scotland they form a broad belt across the country
where it is narrowest, from the coast of Ayrshire to Fife-ness^ex-
tending on the west coast from the Clyde to the Doon, and on the
east from the Eden to the Tyne. Detached tracts also occur in the
counties of Berwick, Roxburgh, and Dumfries. Ireland is not rich
in coal. Her six coal districts are situated in the Carboniferous lime-
stone which covers the great central plain, and do not yield more
than about 55,000 tons annually.
The total area of the Coal-measures in the British Isles is esti-
mated at about 8000 sq. m. ; and it is calculated that, at the present
rate of consumption (125 million tons per year), the supply will last
for 1000 years. The number of collieries at work in 1873 was 4268,
giving employment to 393,000 males. The value of the coal is im-
mensely enhanced by its being associated with beds of iron ore.
The ore could not be fused without the coal, nor without the aid
of the mountain limestone, which acts as a flux and pomotes its
speedy reduction. In other countries where the coal is not asso-
ciated with those other deposits — as in Silesia and France — the
value of the mineral is restricted to its employment as an article of
fuel.
ScJi occurs chiefly in the county of Cheshire, where vast beds of rock-
salt and brine-springs occur. LimestoM is abundant in almost ever^part
of England and Irekind ; sandstone and granite in numerous localities in
Scotland; roofing -slate in Wales, Cumberland and Argyllshire; and
excellent statttary marble in Donegal and Galway. Copper is most abun-
dant in Cornwall, but occurs also in Staffbrdshn^e, Anjglesea^ Waterford,
Cork, and Kerry. Lead is chiefly found in Derbysh&e, Wales, and in
the two most northern counties of England ; in the Lowther Hills in Scot-
land; and in the southern counties of Munster. Lead ore generally
contains a small quantity of silver. Tin occurs only in Cornwall and
Devon, where it has been worked for ages ; and these mines supply
about H of all the tin produced in Europe. Mines of calamine, or zinc ore,
are worked in Derbyshire. Antimony, manganese, arsenic, plumbago,
fuller's earth, and numerous other minerals, occur in various parts of uie
kingdom.
It is estimated that the value of the mineral productions of the
United Kingdom for the year 1873 was nearly £60,000,000 sterling,
more than £47,000,000 of which belong to the single article of coiu,
124,600,000 tons being dug annually. The value of the iron ore for
the same year was estimated at £7,573,000 ; of copper and lead,
about £1,900,000; of tin, silver, and zinc, collectively, £1,580,000;
and of other minerals, including building-stones, about £7,000,000.
Botany. — The flora of the British Isles is wholly embraced
THE BRITISH ISLEB. 101
■■ witiin ScIiouw'b secOTid pliyto-geogtaphio or Nortli European
region, deacnbed above (p, 82).
So clouly does the TcgEtation of th^se islands resemble that of the
Dsi^tHiiiriiig continent, that, tcith two or tliree exceptions, it dees
not oantaiii a single plant nhicli is not to be fonnd in one or other
of the comttrica beyond the Channel. The exceptions referred to are
the three-toothed cinqne-foil {Potmtilla trideniata), the jointed pipe-
wort [EriocaMlon leptangulan), and a nater-wepd named Anasharsit
attimulrun. Even these are probably not indigenous to the United
Kingdom, but appearto have migrated aerosa the Atlantic from the
Sew World. The British Isles cannot be regarded a9a"centre of
vegetation " (p. 5S), but as having been colonised by a succession of
TSffetable migrations from the continent of Europe. Edward Forbes
and others regard these migrations as having commenced as early
a* the epoch of the Middle Tertiary formation — when one nnbroken
continent eitended from the Mediterranean to the British ehoree —
and Bs having been continued tUl the present time.
Our entire flora may, howevor, be divided Into four groups of plants,
corTBBponding with the continental regions from which tliey are auppoaed
to have migrated. Thna, we have — I. Tlie Oemumic gro^ip, which lorma
the grand staple of our vegetation, and embraces our trees, shrubs, weeds,
and common wild-flowers, all of which are equally abundant in Germany,
the Netherliuids, Bel^om, and north of Fiance ; 3. The Samdiiia'eian
pronn— fonnd chiefly m the Highlands of Scotland, and more spMingly
In the mouataina of Cumberland, Walex, and Ireland, consisting of
liaheni, mosses, gnisaes, some flowering plants of great beauty, and seve-
ml berry -bearing sliraba, as the cranberry, bilberry, and clondberry —
plants which are abundant in the mountains of Scandinavia and in the
lowland regions of Arctic Europe ; 3. Tlio AnaorTcait group in the S.E.
of Ireland and S.W. of England, where tbe vegetation la closely allied to
that of Brittony and Normandy, the ancient jinmoriea,- 4. The H««rion
group, in the S.W. of Ireland, where about 12 species of plants are found
which are common in the mountains of Northern Spain, though occurring
nowhere else in tiie British Isles,— as St Patrick's cabbage (Saxifrigu
iHxJruKt), the Btraviberry-ti«e {Arintuj tinedo), and various species of
Botanists vary considerably in their estimates of the total number
of species belonging to our native flora, owing to the nncertatnty
that attaehea to many species as to whether tbej are really native,
or hava been introduced by man. Thus Professor Balfour, in his
'Manual of Botany,' considers our indigenous species to amoant to
4400, ofwhich 3230 are common to Englandand Scotland. He states
the ntunber of flowering plants at 1600, and of the non-flowering
or dyptogomtc (embrHcing alga or tea-tnetdi, femt, numes, liAtnt,
mA/aiigi} at 2800 species. The ' Physical Atlas ' gives the number of
oar flowering plants as 1371, of which 310 are monocotyledons and
1031 dicotyledons. Of the £000 known species of ferns, about 00
■re fonnd in the British archipelago, ond of the 1100 mosses wa have
aboat 300. We have also nnmerous species of lichens, fungi, and
Migai, though the statistics are less precise.
102 POLITICAL 6E0GBAPUY.
Of forut-treet acknowledged to be of British origin, the principal
are the oak, ehn, birch, beech, ash, alder, pine or Scotch fir, poplar,
willow, yew, mountain-ash, maple, holly, and hawthorn. Of trees
that are known to have been introduced by man from foreign coun-
tries may be mentioned the chestnut, lime, walnut, Norwegian
spruce, larch, weeping-willow, Lombardy poplar, mulberry, and
cedar. Our principal /ruii-^rec* are the apple, pear, cherry, plum,
peach, walnut, currant, gooseberry, strawberry.
Agricnltiire. — ^British farming has attained to an unrivalled
degree of perfection. The general study of agricultural chemis-
try, and the consequent adoption of rotation of crops, together
with the adoption of a thorough system of drainage, have mainly
contributed to this result ; but the vast number of good roads,
canals, and railways that intersect the kingdom in all direc-
tions, and enable the agriculturist to convey the produce of his
farm to the best market, has also very powerfully contributed
to bring about the same result.
Estimating the area of the entire archipelago at 122,550 sq. m., or
78,000,000 acres, we learn from the Board of Trade Report for 1868
that there were in that year 45,652,000 acres under cultivation, of
which 11,659,000 acres were under com, 4,865,000 under green crops,
5,690,000 under clover and "rotation grasses," and 22,164,000 under
permanent pasture. In every 100 acres in England 42 are in pas-
ture ; in Wales, 56 ; in Scotland, 23 ; and in Ireland, 64. The
greater proportion of the inhabitants of Gi*eat Britain are engaged in
manufacturing, mining, and commercial pursuits, while Ireland and
Wales are strictly agricultural countries. The industrial pursuits of
a country depend, to a great extent, on its geological character. Gen-
erally speaking, the most ancient geological formations are the richest
in minerals, while the more recent are the best adapted for agriculture.
Accordingly, if we draw a line from the mouth of the Tees, in Dur-
ham, to Leicester, and thence to Gloucester and the river Exe, we
shall find that nearly all the mining and manufacturing districts of
England lie to the W. of it, and all the agricultural districts to the
E. In like manner, if we draw a straight line from Dundee to Dum-
barton, and another from Berwick to Girvan, we shall have the
limits of all the coal-fields and iron-mines of Scotland : all the great
centres of commerce and manufactures, as also the principal harbours
of the country, are found between these lines.
The cereal crops of the United Kingdom consist of wheat, barley,
bigg, and oats. The total quantity of com of all kinds annually pro-
duced is estimated at 51,480,000 qrs. ; while the annual value of real
property, as assessed under the Property-tax Act in 1864, was
£323,000,000. Other cultivated plants comprise the potato, turnip,
mangold, carrot, radish, beet, cabbage, pease, beans, hops, flax,
hemp, vetches, clover, and rye-grass.
Zoology. — The faima of the British Isles is wholly embraced
THE BRITISH I6LES. 103
'■^jthiii the middle province of the first or Eiiropean Zoological
Kingdom— (see above, p. 57).
L Thk VEf.TEBKiTi, oT Maminds, Birds, Eeptilea, tmd Fiihes.
The Mammftlla of the DmtEd Eingdom are tepresEHted by on!j
H^bor orders — viz., the Camivom, Ilodentia, Kntninantia, and Cetaeea ;
^■Ae other funr being HboUy Hhaent— vis., the Qnadrumsna, Mar-
^^Hnialia, EJentata, and FBchydennatB- The lasC-namad order il
^Bhideed Tepreeeiited b; the horse, aes, and sciw ; bnt as the; are no
H^Jnnger'ioaDd here in tbeir wild rtate, ire do not tahe th«m into
•saount. The orders actually represented embrace 60 Epecies; bnC
if we deduct the bate uid the mariire iDBnunalB, not muie than 40
^Mcies will remain— a mere JraKment of oot maiomalian fuunn dar-
ing like epoch of the Boulder Cluy, irhen, in addildon to the eating
~ jea, these ialanda contained the elejihant, Thinooeros, hippopota-
1, tiger, hyiesa, the great ellt, the gigantie deer, two apeuiei of
ctrer, andtl^e species of bear. Sevenil species — as the heaver, bear,
't, wild ox, and wild boai' — have been dtingiiished during Hit
mistil era by the cutting down of the forests, the cultivation of
le Kiil. and the destnietirB efli<cts of the chase ; while not a, few
ot^iera have became vaty rure, a9 the badger, polecat, and. sgnirreL
The Camivrrra are repreBaiitad by the foi, dog, weasel, ermine, foo-
nuut, martin, polecat ; the hedirehog, mole, £rev, and badger ; the
Otter, seal, and walrus ; and by D Bpecies of bat The badger is
WfonndK. oftie Wedouian Canal, nor the mule N. of the Pent-
^d Filth, or in Ireland. The Jlodentia embrace the squirrel, hare,
Abit, dormouse, 3 speciefi of mouse, 2 of rat, and i of arvicoU.
*ie Evmiiumlia are 3 Bpeciea of deer — the red, roe, and fillow deer i
it, and sheep. The Cetacea embrace the porpoise, gram-
>w, and variona species of whales and dolphins.
_ li are comparatively numerous in the Biitiah lales ; for wHle
H total number of spedea heloncinK to Europe is onlj4S0, no fewer
jmh ST* are found in the United Euigdom, of which 23(1 are known
I Ireland. £ach of the mi orders is lorfrely Tepreaenled. The
' faerta, or Birds of Fi'ey, include the golden eagle and earue,
B luurk, kits, faluoD, and varions species of uwL Tbe Climben
Oallinaeeout £irdt include the red-BTOuse (peculiar to
s ouuntiy), the ptarmigau, blackcocl, partridge, common qitail,
• — • • — ■■-"cBon. The capercailzie, or cocli of the wood,
_ 1, has been reintroduced reeeatly Irom Koi-
aniy. The ]>Gacack, turkey, common fowl, Guinea hen, and pheas-
ant, are all of foreign origin. The Woden are represented by the
fanrtard. oraik, crane, plorar, snijw, heron, and stork ; and the Saitii'
aura by tbe eormotaut, eannet, gull, petrel, duuk, and guoBe.
, OftiieTSBpeciflsofturopBauRajitQBB. only IJ occur in tbe Brit-
'"fc lales. Of the ftrnr orders boloupng to this doss, the first, or
K order, has DO repreeeutative iu oui arcliipelitgo, asTe that the
104 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
hawk's-Lill tortoise has been occasionally seen in the Hebrides, and
the leathery tortoise in ComwalL Of the Sauriaru there occur only
3 species — viz., 2 lizards and 1 skink ; but numerous other species
belonging to the order — some of them of most gi^intic dimensions
— existed here in the geological eras, as the crocodue, megalosannu,
iguanodoD, ichthyosaurus, and plesiosaurus. Of the 15 European
SerperUs only 3 are found in the United Kingdom — viz., the bund-
worm, snake, and adder or common viper, the last-named .of which
is alone venomous ; and of the 23 European Batrackians there occur
only the eft, toad, and frog.
Fishes. — Of the twenty-five provinces of marine life into which
the late distinguished Professor Edward Forbes proposed to divide
the waters of the globe, the British seas form a part of the third, or
Celtic province. This province is confined to tne European side of
the Atlantic ; embraces the Baltic, North Sea, English Channel,
Irish Sea, and the entire western shores of the British Isles ; and
is bounded on the N., W., and S. by the Boreal, Virginian, and
Lusitanian provinces, respectively. Its population is of a very
mixed character, owing to numerous colonists from the regions lying
to its N. and S ; but it is distinguished as being the great field of the
herring fisheries, and for the thorough investigation which its fauna
and flora have received at the hands of British, Danish, and Swedish
naturalists. Of the 8000 fishes already known to the ichthyologist,
the seas, rivera, and lakes of the United Kingdom embrace 263
species. Fishes are usually divided into two orders — ^the cartUagin-
Otis and the osseous ; the former embracing only a few British species,
as the sturgeon, ray or skate, shark, dogfish, lamprey, pride, ha^,
and sailfish ; and the latter a very great number, including the ssd-
mon, trout, char, herring, pilchard, pike, carp, gudgeon, cod, ling, tusk,
whiting, sole, turbot, fluke, halibut, eel, perch, mackerel, and minnow.
II. Invertebrated Animals. — Our limits forbid our enlarging
on the invertebrated fauna of the British Isles ; and we can only
state a few of the more interesting facts, referring the student for
details to works on natural history.
MollUBca. — This division of the Invertebrata consists of animals
having bodies composed of soft parts, without any internal skeleton,
some of which are protected by shells, while others are naked ;
having white, cold blood ; breathing organs, lungs, gills or branchiw ;
and of limited senses and instincts. They are usually divided into
five classes — viz.. Cephalopoda, Pteropodky Gasteropoda, Acephala,
and Brachiopoda. These are subdivided into about 200 genera, and
probably embrace 20,000 species (see p. 56). Of the shell-bear*
ing molluscs, 892 species* (or 232 univalves and 160 bivalves) fre-
quent the British seas ; the most plentiful genera being Trochus, La-
cuna, Patina, Bissoa, Pullastra, and Acidia. Though greatly inferior,
both in size and beauty, to species inhabiting tropical seas, our
shell-bearing molluscs are often highly ornamental ; others, again,
are largely used as articles of diet, as the oyster, mussel, cockle,
* Now about 520 species (see p. 21).
I
TUE BUITISII ISLES. 105
'lielk, and limpet. The yudibranchiaia, or molloscs destitute of u
shall, are also very mtmenms in the Celtic prorince.
ArttimlBtB, or jointed animals, aleo comprisa five classea — viz.,
^nnulata, Crtistacea, Cirrhnpoda, Arachnides, and Tiaccta ; the Gret
of which ia represented by the earth-wiirm aud the leetih, the secouit
hj the crab and lobster, the third by the barnacle and balauus, the
tonrth by the spider and mite, and the Sfth by the dragon-fly, bee,
bntterfly, niuth, fly, and gnat. The number of British insects al-
ready known exceods 10,000 species, oae-third of which extend ta
The Badlata, so called from harinz their limbs or members
branching oiT front a common centre. Tike the apokea of a, wheel,
also comprise Gve classes — viz., EchinodsTiaata, Entoxoa, Aixclepka,
P^tmn, and Infiaaria, which are represented respectively by the
Starfish and sea-nrchin, the tape-worm, the medusa, the loopbyta
or coral inseat, an3 the Broall microscopie animals named animal-
cules, which embrace the lowest forma of animal life, and enlist in
eouutleas numbeis in vegetable infusions.
v
The Celts -ware probably the original inhabitants of the neighbonr-
In^ continent, more especially of its western aide ; and, at a period
prior to the dawn of histoiy, migrated into Britain, and formed its
earliest inhabitants. The ereat Celtio family, before arriving at
their ultimata destination, became divided into two main sections,
the Oael and tlie Kymri, who «-ere mutually hostile, and apoke
widely-different languages. The Gael seem to have been the earliest
settlers In this island, but to bavs been speedily dislodged by the
more powerful Kymri, and driven into Scotland, Ireland, the
BebriJea, and the Isle of Man, — thus forming the ancestors of the
Scottish Highlanders, the Irish, and the MaoK. The Eymri occn-
pied S. Brilaio as far north as the Grampians, and became the an-
cestors of the Welsh and the Cornish. The Kymri more resembled
the inhabitanta of Ceitio Gaul in their laugn^e than the Gael did ;
md some of our most eminent ethnologists maintain that the ancient
Picta and Caledoniana were Kymric tribes, though others insist on
their Gothic origin (p. 86). But the great bulk of the population
bclonjfa to the Tentonlc Race, partly to its Gothic, and partiy to its
Scandinavian braiiL-h. To the farmer beIougt.'d the Anglo-Saxons,
whosa original home wra the country lying S. of the Caspian, and
sftorwards Germany, between the Eyder and the Weser, and who
began ta invade the east of England in the year A.s. 449, contin-
uing their inctirsiona for a ccntiirv afterwarda. Tliey overcame the
Ceitio tribes that then occupied the land, and drove them into the
mountain-fastnesses of Wales and Ceniwall. The nest invaaiou of
I firitaiu took place about the beginning of the eleventh century, and
■eigned over the A
106 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
1017 to A.D. 1036. The last invasion of our shores was also by a
Gothic tribe — viz., the Normans, who, under William the Conqueror,
established their rule by the battle of Hastings, A.D. 1066, and
changed the Anglo-Saxon language of the population into the mo-
dem English. Gothic tribes, therefore, form the great bulk of the
present population of England, of Scotland south of the Grampians,
of the N.£. coast of Scotland, including the Orkney and Shetland
Isles, the N. and E. of Caithness, and Ulster. They have, moreover,
largely commingled with the Celtic race in all the remainder of the
British Isles, so that it is now very difficult to find an unmixed
Celtic population anywhere. The following is an approximation to
the relative proportions of the two races as they exist at present in
the British Isles : — Of Celtic blood, pure and mixed, 11,470,000 ; Teu-
tonic blood, pure and mixed, IS, 200,000 ; completely intermingled,
1,345,000.
Languages. — ^The lan^ages presently spoken in the British Isles
are five in number — Irish, Welsh, English, Lowland Scotch, and
French. The two first belong to the Celtic Stock, and represent the
most ancient language in Europe. The Scottish Gaelic and the
Manx are mere dialects of the Irish ; and the Armoric of Brittany,
and the now extinct Cornish of Cornwall, are nearly identical with
the Welsh. But the Irish and Welsh branches are widely different,
though their affinities are so numerous and close that they must be
referred to the same stock. The English and the Lowland Scotch
belong to the Teutonic Stock of languages — the former to the Ger-
manic, and the latter to the Scandinavian branch.
The three Teutonic tribes above alluded to — ^the Jutes, Saxons, and
Angles — who invaded Britain in the fifth and sixth centuries, all spoke
dialects of the same language. The Union of these dialects resulted in
the formation of the Anglo-Saxon,— a language which maintained its
purity till about a.d. 1258, when it began to amalgamate with the Nor-
man French, which had been introduced about two centuries previously
by William the Conqueror. The result of this amalgamation was the
modem English, less refined, indeed, in its structure than some other
tongues, but more widespread, and containing more literary and scien-
tific treasures than any other, ancient or modem. It is essentially a
compound language, and borrows freely from all sides, but still preserves
to a great extent the lineaments of its parent The Anglo-Saxon is the
groundwork and substratum of the English ; and however extensive,
therefore, our knowledge may be' of the Greek and Latin, we can never
thoroughly understand our own language without an acquaintance with
the Ano;lo-Saxon and other kindred Gothic tongues. The Lowland Scotch
is no dialect of the English, and is not, like the latter, descended from
the Anglo-Saxon, but is a parallel and sister tongue. Its tme parent is
the Norse — a Scandinavian and not a Gothic language. In Caithness,
Orkney, and Shetland, the geographical names are nearly all Norse ; and
throughout Scotland generally the language of the people is more akin to
the Icelandic than to the Saxon. Instead of being regarded as a mere
comiption of the English, it has all the qualities of a regular and cul-
tivated language, and is possessed of a highly -fascinating literature,
French is spoken in the Channel Isles, — the only portion of Normandy
TDE BRITISH ISLEB.
BBUgloiiB Bellaf. — Cliristianity i^ profeased, nndel' some one or
other or its ToniiH, by nearly nil the popnlation or the British Isles ;
lint in no other country, with perhaps the eseeption of tlio United
SUtea, ia the religious community divided into so many socta. Ko
fewer than 146 dcnominationa exist in Britjiiu alone ; snd for the
entire kingdom there are at least 150. Perfect freedom of ojiinion
on all aabjBcta, and mora especially complete toleration of all
Tarieties at creed, are tha main caiiaes that originate this nnparalleled
mnltiplieation of sects — tha great and standing rBproact of Pro-
testantism. The 150 denominations may, however, he reduced to
two great diTisions — viz., Protestanl.a and Roman Catholics. The
proportion of the population belonging to each of these divisions ia
■s follows:— Protestants, 23,817,000 ; Roman Catholics, 6,490,000.
The Protestants, therefore, are to the Eoman Catholics as 4^ to ],
tile Utter being found chlellj in Ireland, where they amouat to
■4,490,000. The total Eoman Catholic population of Great Britain in
1M8 was about 3,000,000.
I' The principal Protestant denominations in the British tales are, the
■ftuBcapBlians, Presbyterians, Iniiependenta, Baptists, and Methodists.
Btnie general cenaua of ISTl does not furuiah religious statistics for Eng-
Pltad Bnd Wales. Hera Episcopacy is establiBhed by law, and the Quetii
' la the Buprema governor of the Church. There are two arthbiahopa—
vii., of Canterbury und York, the foriuer of whom is Primate of all Eng-
lani He enjoys tlie privilegs of crowning the sovereign of tha realm, anil
of being the usual channel of communication with the Crown on constitn-
tioDsI questions affecting tha interests of the Church. The province of
Cantarbury embraces 21 dioceses, each of vihicli is presided over by c
bishop. These dioceses are,— London, Winchester, Lichfield, Eieter,
Worceater, Lincohi, Norwich, Rochester, Gloocesler aud Bristol, Oiioi'd,
pBterborougli, Ely, Canterbury, 8t David, iJath and Wells, Llandaff,
Salishury. Chicbester, St Asaph, Hereford, itnd Basgor. The provinio
of York contains 7 dioceses, — Manchester, Chester, Ripon, York, Dur-
liam, Carlisle, Sodor and Man. Preshyterianism is established in Scot-
land. The Scottish Church has no hierarchy — all the clergy are on an
ttjOBllty, and the body ia governed by kirfe-eessions, presbyteries, pro-
yinctol synods, and by the General Aaaembly which meets annually in
it up
,a'nd"i623' parishes. '"pi^"irioua"to 1843, the
Establisiierl Cbutcb etobraced the great bulk of the population ; but in
that year it great disruption took place, in consequence ol the interference
otthe civil courts with the apWtnal privilcEcs of the members, especially
inthe matter of election of ministers. The body thus formed is kuownaa
the Free Church of Scotland, which in doctrine, discipline, and govern-
meat does not differ essentially from the Eatabliahed Church, oicopt in
the matter above refBrred to. The Eatahlislied Church end the Free
CSiurdh have each about a third of the population. The United Preaby-
— ■—-iiin Chnreh ia also very numerously attended, embracing 600 coagrega-
.D8 and about 1 80,000 membara— nearly a fourth of the entire population.
M only other religious bodies of Importance are the Scottish Episcopal
108 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Churcli, the CoDgregationalists, and the Eoman Catholics. Tn Ireland,
the hitherto Establ^hed Church is a branch of the Church of "RnglftTid^
presided over by two archbishops (Armagh and Dublin) and 12 bishops.
It embraces, however, little more than a seventh part of the popu-
lation (being, in 1871, 683,295), and consequently, as the Church of the
minority, it was disestablished and disendowed by Act of Parliament
in 1869. Those in communion with the Roman Catholic Church were
4,141,933 ; Presbyterians and other Protestant Dissenters, 618,018.
Form of Goyemment. — ^Th.e Government of the United Kingdom
is a limited monarchy. The legislative authority is vested in the
Sovereign and Parliament, which consists of a House of Peers and a
House of Commons ; and the concurrence of these three estates is
necessary to the enactment of new laws, or the repeal of tliose already
existing. The crown is hereditary. The House of Peers consists of
about 490 members, including lords spiritual and temporal, and is
composed of princes of the blood- royal, 2 archbishops, 24 English
bishops, 20 dukes, 19 marquesses, 110 earls, 22 viscounts, 214 barons,
with 16 Scotch and 28 Irish representative peers. The House of
Commons consists of 652 elected members, of whom 487 are for Eng-
land and Wales, 105 for Ireland, and 60 for Scotland. This gives
1 member to each 50,000 of the population. Parliaments are sep-
tennial, but generally expire sooner, and members of the House of
Commons are elected for a single parliament. Any l^islative mea-
sure may originate in either House, but the House of Commona^pos-
sesses the exclusive privilege of originating money-biUs, and voting
money out of the revenue. In this single privilege lies the palladium
of the commonwealth ; for though the monarch may declare war with
a foreign power and levy armies, the war cannot be prosecuted, nor
the army paid, but by the consent of the representatives of the
nation.
Army and Navy. — The extent of the British empire renders it
necessary to kee^ up a large naval and military force ; but owing to
our insular position, our unrivalled navy, the equity of our laws, the
purity of our religion, and tl^e happiness and contentment of our
people, there is no European nation that maintains so small a stand-
ing army, in proportion to its population. In 1853, before the com-
mencement of the Russian war, the royal navy numbered 545 ships
of all classes, which carried 18,080 guns, 58,000 seamen, and 18,616
maiines. The army numbered 214,421 men, exclusive of militia;
and the annual cost of both army and navy was £24,000,000. In
1872 the total strength of the anny amounted to 196,065 men and
officers, of whom 62,864 were in India, and 28,333 in the colonies.
Besides these, we have 128,900 militia, costing £952,700; volunteers,
199,000, costing the Government £414,000. Our naval force in the
same year amounted to 398 vessels, including 54 armour-plated
ships, 4 floating batteries* 44 ships of the line, and 82 frigates ; num-«
ber of marines, 63,300. The total cost of the army was £14,280,400,
and of the navy, £9,996,641 ; total, £24,227,041. In 1814, during
the wai* with France, the expense of our army and navy cost the
country £71,686,000. Our principal naval arsenals and dockyards
r
^^
»
TllE BRITISH ISLES. 109
homo are those of Deptrord, Woolwich, Cliatliam, Shetrnpsa,
Portsmouth, Devonport, Pcmbrolce, uid naulbawliae; and Bhroni!,
those of Gibndtar, Malta, Halifax, Bermuda, Antiguo, Jamaica,
Aacensiou, Sieira Leone, Cape Toith, Trincomalee, Singapore, and
Hong Eong.
KULnfactnrea and Commorce. — Britain stands Qririralled amojip
the nations both m the ejitent of her commercB and the Tariety of
her manufactures. Several causes concur in rendering her commerce
■nperior to that of other counlriea. By referring to a teiTestrial
globe, it nill be eoeu that her melTopalia stands almost exactly in the
centra of the land-surface of tlie globa. But this favonrable position
would he of little avail were it.not that she is BurrcnudBd by eeoa on
all sides, and thus placed in circumstances to prosecute her commerce
in all directions without encountmng any physical obstacle. In
additioQ to her insular position, she further enjoys tiiB ndvantaga of
numeiouB eicellelit harbours, canala, roads, railways, and navigabla
riyera, by which her indostrial products can be readily and cheaply
conveyed to the Beahoard, But perhaps the greatest physical advan-
tage that Britain enjoys over other conntries consists in theuunTalled
extent and variety ot her mineral treasures — especially thoae of coal
and iron, nhich are usually found i]i close juxtaposition, the one
affording the material of her manufacturing machiueir, and the
other the means hy which that machinery can he wrought with ad-
vantage. Accordingty, all the great manufacturing centres of the
kingdom ara situated in or near the great coal-Sdda (see above,
nncSr "Minerals"). Onrtwo moat important manufactures ore those
of textile fabrics and of metallic goo^ A large proportion of the
population depend directly on these for support. The inoollen manu-
fictare, though the oldest in the kingdom, la now second in import-
ance to the cotlan, of which upwards of 10 millions of cwt. are annu-
«lly imported, in the form of cotton wool, then wrought up into a
"" st variety of fabrics, and eiported to all parts of the world.
Export! and ImportB. — Our imports are chiefly of two claases —
* ' " people, and raw material for our mannfaotnring ii
bemo
The home supply of the former is annually decreasing ii
in to the population, partly owing to deficient harvests, ant
ly from less land being devoted to the growth of cereals, pasture
, dnriug the lost few years we
have been obliged to import about one-half of the entire food of our
people. In 1873 alone we paid for foreign com no less than
25^000,000. Five-eighths of this supply came from distant conn-
tries (chiefly from N. America and Russia), and three-eighths from
tlw nearest polls of Europe. Our total imports for IS73 amotmted
in Talne to £371,257,668, of which £290,700,000 were from foraigu
cenntries, and £81,010,617 from British poaaesaions. Of foreign
eomitries the United States stand firat, that conntiy having sent tts
to the value of £71,000,000, chiefly cotton ; then come Francs
1^3,800,000), Kuaaia (£20,000,000), Egypt (£1*,000,000, including
ansit), China and Netherlands, £12,000,000 each. The six prin-
pal articleB of import are cotton, com, sugar, wool, timber, and tea.
110 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
In the same year our exports amounted to £311,000,000, of
which £250,060,000 were to foreign countries, and £61,000,000
to our colonial possessions. The foreign countries to which
we export most are Germany (£27,000,000), United States
(£35,800,000), France (£17,600,000), Netherlands (£16,700,000), and
liussia (£9,000,000). The principal articles of export are cotton,
woollen, and linen goods, metallic goods, machinery, coals, and
appareL Speaking generally, one-thim of our exports and imports
together is carried on with our own possessions abroad. From India
we get rice, cotton, silk, sugar, jute, indigo, tea, spices, and fine
woods; from the West Indies, sugar, tobacco, coffee, rice, and mm;
from the Australian colonies, gold, copper, and wool ; from our N.
American possessions, gold, timber, fui-s, fish, and oil. Our mercan-
tile marine greatly exceeds that of any other country. In 1869 the
number of British vessels that entered our ports was 25,074, carrying
8,761,899 tons; and of foreign, 17,611 vessels, carrying 4,123,878
tons; total 42,685 vessels, and carrying 12,776,777 tonjB. In the
same year there left our shores 29,629 British vessels, and 19,582
foreign, with a total tonnage of 14,345,317.
Finance.— The estimated revenue for 1870 was £72,855,000, the chief
items of which were customs, excise, taxes, stamps, property and income
tax : the expenditure was £68,223,000, of wMch the interest on the Pub-
lic Debt amounted to £22,454,000 ; army and navj', £24,227,000 ; and
the expense of the expedition to Abyssinia, £5,000,000. The National
Debt amounts to the enormous sum of £737,400,000, or upwards of £23
stg. for every man, woman, and child in the United Kingdom. It com«
menced in the reign of William III. (in 1689), and from that period,
owing to our numerous wars with foreign States, has been constantly in-
creasing. In 1697 it amounted to about £5,000,000 ; at the outbreak of
the American War of Independence, in 1774, itdid not exceed £128,000,000;
at the conclusion of that war it amounted to £250,000,000 ; while at the
termination of the French war it amounted to £848,282,477. Notwith-
standing its decrease during the lost 50 years, it is still half as laige as
the combined debt of all other European Stat^, except France.
Inland Commnnlcation, in proportion to area, is also greatly
superior to that of any other country. Our turnpike roads, canals,
and railways, form a perfect network of communication, which ex-
tends to the remotest parts of both the main islands. On the first
January 1875 there were 16,449 miles of railway open for traffic in
the United Kingdom, of which 11,622 were in England, 2700 in
Scotland, and 3127 in Ireland. The total cost of construction
amounted to £610,000,000, being £37,078 per mile. The number
of passengers annually conveyed by them exceeds 360,000,000 ; and
the total receipts for passengers and freight amount to upwards of
£60,000,000 annually. So great is the safety of railway travelling,
that only one traveller out of every sixteen millions is killed, and
one out of every half a million injured. Our turnpike roads now ex-
ceed 35,000 miles, all of which are kept in excellent repair, and
about 150,000 miles of cross-roads. Asides these we have 1800
miles of river-navigation that have been opened by artificial means,
THE BRITian MLES.
Ill
I
I
s of navigable canala. Dui-ing the Inst twenty jeors,
,000 miles of tsIegrapli-Tirea huve been lB.id down, tlius
connaoting bj instantaneona canunimicatiQa all the cities, tawiia, and
great maritiiiie ports of the United Kingdom, and connectint; the
countrj by Bubmarine cables with the continent of Europe, India,
and Amerieo. On the Eth February 1870, tlte GoTertuneiit took
into its oivn hands all the telegrttphs of the conntry. These amonnted,
in 1874, to 107,000 miles; while on the Continent there are 100,000
miles, and 70,000 in America. Another mighty engine for furthering
thfl interests of commerce and for promoting! the intelligence of Uie
people is the Post-Offiee, which lias its btanciiea and Tauiiliciitions in
all comeis of the land. The number of letters transmitted in 1S70
VBS 600,000,000, or 28 letters per annum for Svery individual of tha
population. Mr Rowland Hill's pennj-poBta^ scheme for inland
letters came into operation in 1340 ; and a unifarm rate of sixpence
now suffices for carrying letters to the most distant of the British
oolonics. Books can be tranamittfid by post to any jiort of the
kingdom at the rate of fonrpence per lb. , and to the colonies at three-
pence or fonrpence per 4 oi.
Hlrtortcal akBtoh.— The British Tales were peopled by the Goal
and Kjmri long before the dawn of authentic history. It was not
till B late pei-ind that the Oreeka and Romans obtained any know-
ledge of them; but in early times the PhienicianB visited the Scilly
laUnda and the coasts of Cornwall for tin. Ailstotle, the disciple of
Fbto and tutor of Alexander the Great (h.c. 342), is the first to re-
Mrd the existence of " two large islands in tbe ocean, named Albion
and Erin." The Komana knew nothing of thetn personally till the
Gillio war of Julius Ctesar, who twice invaded Biitain (h-c. 5S, £4).
Casar's stay -was of limited duration, and accompanied by no import-
ant result ! and the Ramans made no farther attempt to cononer the
ialandfor 100 years. In the reign of Claudins they again landed,
and permanently sabdned the conntry south of the Thames. la the
year 61 A.n. the Britons, under Bosdioea, sustained another decisive
defeat ; and the conq^uest of south Britain was Snally completed by
Agiiuola (a.d. 78-84). In order to protect his newly-acquired terri-
tory from the iucursiona of the northern Colta, he erected a series of
forts between the Firths of Clyde and Forth, calling the country
lying to the south of it Britannia Rama'aa, and that to the north
Caledonia, or Britannia Barbara. The Eomans, however, gave up
the northern conquests of Agricola in the lei^in of Adrian (a.h.
121), and caused a wall to be built from the Solway to the month
6f the Tyna ns the extreme limit of the Roman province.
Early in the fourth century the Caledonians, who now appear under
the names of Picta and Scnts, broke through the wall, and Gothic
tribes began to infest the coasts ; but the declining power of the
Kmpire wag nnahle to afford the province any effectual assistance,
nnd in the rei;^ of Honorius all the Roman troops were withdrawn
^m the island (a.d. 418}. About 30 yeoi's after the departure nf
the Romans, the Jntea, Saxona, and Angles, successively invaded
•onth Biitain, and drove the Kymri into Wales (a.d. 449). These
112 POLITICAL GEOGRAPUlf.
Gothic nations divided England into seven parts, each of which had
its own chief ; and their government is called the Saxon Heptarchy,
which began in 582, and maintained its ground till the Danes under
Sweyn invaded the country in 1013. The Normans, from France,
subdued the country half a century afterwards ; the battle of Hast-
ings was fought in the year 1066, and the Anglo-Saxons were reduced
to a state of slavery.
Of the subsequent history of the British Isles we can only enume-
rate a few of the most important facts. Ireland was subdued by
Henry II. of England, a.d. 1172. Richard I., King of England,
engaged in the Third Crusade in 1189. The Afagna Charta was
signed by King John in 1215. Wales was subdued and added to
England by Edward I. in 1282. The first House of Commons was
summoned to convene in 1265, and there has been a regular succes-
sion of parliaments since 1293. Wickliffe's translation of the Bible
was executed in 1880, and Caxton introduced the art of printing
into England in 1471. In 1468 the Orkney and Shetland Islands
were bestowed by the King of Denmark on James III. of Scotland.
In 1525 Tyndale's translation of the New Testament was publi^ed
at Wittemberg, and nine years afterwards in England. The Refor-
mation began in Scotland under Patrick Hamilton in 1528, and in
England in 1536 ; in 1584 Virginia was taken possession of for Eng-
land by Sir Walter Raleigh ; and in 1588 the Spanish Armada was
destroyed by the English. In 1603 the crowns of England and Scot-
land were united in the person of James VI. ; and Barbadoes, Bri-
tain's first colony, established in 1604. A civil war in Britain ter-
minated in the execution of Charles I. in 1649, and Oliver Cromwell
became dictator for eleven years. In 1662 the Royal Society was
instituted ; in 1665 the plague broke out in London ; and Newton's
Philosophy was published in 1687. The celebrated Revolution took
place in 1688, and William III. was called to the throne. The
legislative Union of England and Scotland took place in 1707 ; and
the first and second rebellions in Scotland in 1715 and 1745 respec-
tively. The American War of Independence began in 1774 and
terminated in 1 783. The war with Revolutionary France commenced
in 1793, and terminated by the battle of Waterloo in 1815. The
legislative Union of Great Britain and Ireland took place in 1801,
and was followed the same year by the first regular census of tiie
British Isles. Coal-gas was first used for lighting apartments in
1792 ; the Surrey tram-railway, the first in Britain, was constructed
in 1801; and in 1812 Henry Bell's diminutive steadier, **The
Comet," the commencement of European steam-navigation, was
launched on the waters of the Clyde. The Catholic Emancipation
Act was passed by the British Legislature in 1829, and the Reform
Bill in 1832. In 1842 the Tariff Reform was begun, which has
resulted in Free Trade ; and the first Industrial Miibition of all
nations took place in London in 1851. In 1854, Great Britain, in
alliance with France, declared war against Russia, in consequence of
its encroachments on Turkey ; and in 1855 Sebastopol was taken by
the allied armies of Britain, France, Turkey, and Sardinia. In
AND WALES.
ii;
ZSLS, OuiLq waE aunexed to British India, and in the year lollon'in);
the great rebellioa broke out, by ths Sepojs, aX. :&leerut, ehooting
their officers and massacring all Buropeiuis, In 1S68, the rebellion
Laving been Bupprassed, the Queen of England became Empress of
India. A treaty of conunerca between Great Britain and TrancB
•aaa signed in 18CI0, and peace was established with China. The
iUnBtrions Prince Albert died in 1S61 ; in 1862 the second Interna-
tional Eibibitinn was opened in London ; in this year great distress
was eiperieneed in the maimfncturing districts of England, America
having ceased to enpply nswith cotton, owing to the civil war, and to
the Boulhem porta of the Uniou being blockaded by the U.S. Navy.
In 1863, the Prince of Wales married the Princess Alexandra of
Denmark, and in the year following the Ionian Islands were finally
ceded by Great Britain to Greece. The year 1885 was marked by
the death of Lord Palmeraton and of Kicliard Cobden, by the com-
Imencoment of Fenianiam, and of the cattle plagne in England, and
liy the Jamaica insurrection. In 1867, thenewHeforra BUI, which
KTMtly extended the franchise, received the Royal sanction ; in 1808,
'r Bobert Napier, with a British farce, captured Magdala and
I the Disraeli M
I
rescued the Abyssinian capti^
Mr Gladstone oecnme Prime
was disestablished ; while, in 1S70, Oavemment
. of the various Knes of electric tele^^aph throughout the king-
dom, and obtained the sanction of Parliament to a measnre regnlat-
urc of laud in Ireland.
ENGLAKD AND WALES.
Position and Boundaries. — EngLind, including Wales, fonne
the south part of Great Britain, and is situated between lat. 49°
sa" and 55° 47' N. ; and between Ion. 1" 46' E. and b° 43' W. ;
thus occupying 5° 49' of lat, and 7° 28' of Ion. It is hounded
on lie N. by Scotland, from which it is separated bv the Tweed ;
on the E. by the North Sea ; on the S. by the English Channe!,
which separates it from France ; and on the W. by the Atlantic,
St George's Chaimd, and the Irish Sea.
Form, CaaEt-Uue, and Extreme Points. — In fona it approaches
to a scalene triangle : the base, from Land's End to South Foreland,
is 817 miles ; the cast side, from South Foreland to Berwick, 316
miles ; and the west mde, from Berwick to Land's End, 42S miles.
LiEBTd Point fonns the extreme soath of the meinland; Lowestoft
Jfess, in SoSbUc, the exireme east ; Berwick the extreme north ; and
I'b End in Cornwall the eitreme west. The perimeter of the
igle above mentioned isl087 miles; but when the principal ia-
•
114 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHT.
dentations of the coast are included the sea- margin is at least 2000
miles, affording 1 mile of coast to every 29 sq. m. of surface. The
principal indentations are on the W. side, especially the Bristol
Channel, Cardigan Bay, Morecambe Bay, and the Solway ; those cm
the E. side are the Humber, Wash, and the estuary of the Thames.
Area and Population. — The area is 58,320 sq. m. ; being 50,9^
for England, and 7398 for Wales ; and amounts to a little more than
I of the area of the entire island, which is, in turn, -^ of the area of
Europe. In 1871 the population was 22,704,108; or 21,487,688 for
England, and 1,216,420 for Wales ; while in the year 1801 it only
amounted to 8,892,536, and in 1821 to 12,000,236. It has thus
nearly doubled itself in the half -century. The population per sq. m.
is 389, or 422 for England without Wales, which is thinly peopled.
England is, therefore, one of the most densely peopled countries in
the world. The most populous counties are Middlesex, Surrey, Lan-
cashire, and Yorkshire. There are 9036 persons to every sq. m. in
Middlesex, and 1560 in Lancashire ; while there are only 85 in West-
moreland, and 60 in Radnor.
Political Divisions. — ^England is divided into 40 counties,
and Wales into 12. The English counties are most conveni-
ently arranged into 7" eastern, 10 southern, 7 western, and 16
midland coimties.
In the following table, which includes all towns above 1000 inhabitants
(680 in number), the population is given in every case where it amounts
to 5000, as also the river on which the town sfcrnds. Towns between
1000 and 5000 are put in small type, while the rivers on which they stand
wiU be found in the River System of England, p. 138.*
Seven Eastern Counties.
Northumberland. — Newcastle, 128,+ Tynemouth, including
North Shields, 39 (Tyne), Morpeth 5 (Wansbeck), Ahiwick 7 (Aln).
Berwick, 13 (Tweed).
Hexham, Haltwhistle, Bellingham, Blyth, Wooler, Otterhum.
* Durliam. — ^Dubham 14, Sunderland with Wearmouth 98, Biahop«
* The student's attention is particularly requested to the order in which the
towns and rivers are given. It is as nearly as possible the same as that in
the extended table, entitled "Table of Rivers and Towns" (p. 187). The
capital of the county, however, stands firsts and is followed by all the large
towns standing on the same river as the capital, beginning at the mouth and
proceedmg upwards, or beginning as near the mouth as the boundary of the
county will allow. Should the capital stand on a tributary river, all the other
towns in the county on that tributary are placed immediately after it ; and then
those on the main river, beginning at its mouth ; and, lastly, those on the other
tributaries, in the order in which they stand in the River System at page 188.
Thus all the towns in any county belonging to one river-basin are enumerated
before those belonging to any other river-basin are entered on. The name of
the river is put within parentheses. — The order of the small towns is precisely
the same as that of the large.
t The numerals following a city or town denote so many thousands : thus
Newcastle 128, signifies that the population of Newcastle amounts to 128, OOU :
n. means near the river the name of which follows.
EXGLAND AXD WALEa. 115
AucUimil e (Weat), S. Shields 45, Jatrow 18, Gatesbead 49 (Tyne),
Stocktoa 28 (Tees), Darliugton 28 (Skame), Haitlepool 13 (E. coaal).
Cliester-la-StraeC, WolMUgliam, BBnmrd Caitle, HDUBbton-la-Spring.
Torlolilra.— YOBK 44, Goole 9, Selby 5 (Ouse), EipoD 7 (Ura), Hull
122, Beverley 11 (HullJ, Doucaater 19, Sheffield 240 (Don), Bamsley
23 (Dcarna), Eotherham 8 (Kotber), Pontefraot 5 n., Lofda 259,
Bradtonl 146 b., Eeighley 15 {Aire), Wakefield 28, Dewslrary 25,
Halifax 65 (Calder), Hudderafield 70 (Colne), New Maltoa 8 (Der-
went), EoareaborougliQ (Nidd), Tbirsk 6 (Codbeck), Scarborough 24
(east coast), Wbitby 13 (Eek), Middleaborougb 39 (Tees).
North and South Cave, Great Drifflold, Kilham, Howdan, Bingly,
Skipton, Aldborangli, BorDUg-b bridge, Mosham, Eawea, Leybum, Thome,
Ponuimtone, Soaith, CaetleforU, Fooklineton, Market-Weigh ton, Piukar-
ing, HsImaW, Kirthy, Tadoiialar, WBtbarby, Otlay, Eaaiagwold, Her-
roiste, fiednJe, Richmond, Reetb, Tickbill, Bridlington, GuiBborougb,
3MU^ Btoke^ey, Northallerton, Sedbergh, Ouiseley, Yeodon, Batley.
UneoIiuUre,— Ijncoln £7, Boston 16, Spaldine 7, Stamford 8
(Withara), Louth 11 (Ludd), Great Grimsby 20 (Huniber), Gains-
borough 7 (Treat).
SlBttford, Mnrkot-Eaeen, Crowlnnd, Bourne, Wainfleat, Splkby. Alford,
Barton, Epworth, Brigg, Caiator, Crowlo, Homoaatle.
Hoifolt— NoBwioH 80, Yarmoutb 42 (Yare), Lynu-Eegis IB
(Great Quae).
Wells, Wymondham, Hincrbun, Aylesbani, Ifortb Wolsbam, Harles-
ton. Dim, Attlaborougb, Thetford, Cromer, Holt, Downbam-Market,
SwaffhaiD, Walton, Dereham.
SaffifllE.— Tpswicb 43 (Orwell), Sudbury 7 (Stour), Loweatoft II
(east ooaat), Eye 2 a. (Waveney), Bury St Edmuttd'a IS (Larke).
Baoolea, Woodbridge, Stow-market, Long Molford, Haverhill, Had-
Imgb, FnuDlingham, BaleaiTortb, Buaga;, Brandon, MildenhalL
Euex. — Chelmsfobd 6 (Chelmer), Maldon 6, Saffroo-Walden 6
(Blackwater). Colcheater 26, Halstead 6 (Coliie). Harwich, 6 (Stour).
now, Tbaited, Brentwood, Coggeaball, braintree, Fillmry Fori,
i, Eppiug, Waltbora Abbey, Romford.
Ten SoirraEiu) Coukties.
Sent.— Maidstosb 26, Sheemeas 12 (in the lale ot Sheppey),
Chatham 36, Rocheater 18, Tuabridge 6, Tunbridge Wells 14 a.
(Medway), Polkeatono IS (aouth coast), Dover 28 (Strait of Dover),
Deal 8 (east coast), Bamsgate 21, Canterbuiy 21 (Stour), Maigate 12,
Fftvernham 7 (north coast), Gravesend 21, Woolwidi 42, Greeuwiob
168, Deptford 28 (Thamea), Dartford 5 (Darent).
Hytbe, Sandwich, Asbford, Herae Bay, Whitstahle, Baveu Oaka,
Westerham, Sydanbam, Bromley, Tentarden, Cranbrook, Milton.
BiUHDE. — Lewes 11 (Ousel, Chichester 8 (Lavant), Worthing 6.
^ghton 90, EaatbouroB 6, Hastings 29 (aouth coast), Midhurat 7
(Wnt Bother), Horsham 7 {Adur].
116 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHr.
Bosuor, Little Hampton, Arundel, Petwortli, Newliaven, Cuckfield,
Hailsnam, Rye, Battle, East Grinstead, New Shoreham.
Surrey. — Guildford 9 (Wey), part of Deptford, Southwark and
Lambeth (parts of London), Kichmond 17, Elingston 15 (Thames),
Croydon 27 (Wandle), Reigate 16 (Mole).
Godalming, Famham, Chertsey, Epsom, Leatherhead, Dorking, Ejgham,
Wandsworth.
Berks. — ^Reading 32, Newbury 7 (Kennet), Windsor 12, Abing-
don 6 (Thames).
Hungerford, Lamboum, Maidenhead, Wallingford, Hurst^ Woking-
ham, Wantage, Great Faringdon. •
Hampshire or Hants. — Winchester 15, Southampton 54 (Itchin),
Christchurch 9 (Hampshire Avon), Lymington 3 (tne Solent), An-
dover 5 n. (Test), Portsmouth 113 (Portsmouth Harbour), Peteisfield
6 (Rother). In the Isle of Wight are Newport 8, Cowes 5 (Medina),
Ryde 11 (north coast).
Titchfield, Odiham, Ringwood, Fordingbridge, Romsey, Whitchuroh,
Bishop's Waltham, Farebam, Havant, Alton, Basingstoke, Kingsdere.
In Isle of Wight — Osborne, Ventnor.
THlts. — Salisbury 13, Devizes 7 (Avon), Trowbridge 13, Malmes-
bury 7 (Lower Avon), Westbury 6 (Were).
Wilton, Mere, Melksham, Marlborough, Highworth, Amesbury, War-
minster, Bradford, New Swindon, Calne, Chippenham.
Dorset. — Dorchester 7, Poole 10, Wareham 7 (Frome), BridportS
(Brit), Weymouth and Melcombe-Regis 13 (Wey), Sherborne 6 (Ivd).
Shaftesbury, Lyme Regis, Blandford, Beaminster, Wimbome, Stur-
minster-Newton, Cranbome, Stalbridge.
Somerset.— Taunton 15 (Tone), Bath 53 (Lower Avon), Frome 10
(Frome), Wells 6 (Axe), Bridgewater 12 (Parret), Yeovil 8 (Yeo),
Weston-super-Mare 9 (Bristol Channel).
Glastonbury, Shepton-Mallet, South Petherton, Crewkeme^omertou,
Milverton, Wellington, Milbome Port, Ilminster, Chard, Wincanton,
Bruton.
Devon. — Exeter 35, Exmouth 5, Tiverton 10 (Exe), Plymouth
68, Devonport 50 (Plymouth Sound), Tavistock 9 (Tavy), Dart-
mouth 5 (Dart), Teignmouth 6, Newton Abbot 5 (Teign), Torquay 18
(Tor Bay), Barnstaple 12 (Taw), Bideford 7 (Torridge).
Topsham, Crediton, Cullompton, Totness, Ashburton, Chudleigh, St
Mary Ottery, Honiton, Sidmouth, Colyton, Axminster, Ilfracombe, Hart-
land, South Molton, Torrington, Hatnerleigh, Brizham, DawUsh.
ComwalL — Bodmin 5 (Camel), Camborne 7, St Agnes 7, St Ives
7 (W. coast), Penzance 10 (Mount's Bay), Falmouth 5, Truro 11, Red-
ruth 8 n. (Falmouth Harbour).
Helstone, St Just, Stratton, Marazion or Market-Jew, Peniyn, St
Austell, Fowey, East Looe, St Germans, Saltash, Callington, liskmrdy
Launceston.
ESGLAND iKD 1
Seven Webteeh Counties.
-MoNMOUTU 6 (Wye), Newport 27 (Oak), Tredegar 9
<Ebwy).
Chepstow, Abergavenaj, UEk, Pontypool.
HerelOra.— Heueford 18 (Wye), Leomioster 6 (Lag^.
KoAS, Brorayard, KiogtoDi Ledbury.
Saloi) or SliropahlTB. — SHHEwaBuav 23, Eridgenorth 6, Madi-
Wenlock 20 n., Madeley 9 n. (Severn), Ludlow 6 (Teme), Welling-
ton 6 n. (Tern), Osweatry 7 (Ferry).
Market-Dmyton, Sbiffool, Wem, WhitchTirch, Broselay, ElleBmere,
Hawport, Bishop's CbhUBj Ironhriiige, Dawley.
CSeBllre.— CHESTEK36(Dee), Birkenliead 66, Runcorn 10, Stock-
port 63, Hyde 14, Staley Bridge 21 (Mersey), Nautwich 6, Crewo 8
(Wraver),CoQgletonll(DaDe),Altringliiim7,Maoole8ael.l36(Bollm).
Malpaa, Neaton, Now Brighton, Middlewich, Sandbaoh, EnuUford,
T&rporley, EoUington, MiddlBwich.
LancMblre. — Lancastqh IT (Lunc), Ulverstone 7 (Morecambe
B»y). Preston SS, Clitheroe 8 (Ribble), Elaokburo 76 n., Over-
Darwen 14 Q., Aocrington 14(Darwen),Burnley32, Colne 0, Paddi-
luun 6 n. (West Calder), Wigaa 30, Leigli 11 (Douglas), Ctorley 15
(Uhor), Onusfcirk 6, Preacot 7 (Alt), Liverpool 493, Warrington
32, AHhton-nuder-Lyne 32 (Mersey), St Helens IS (Sankcy), Man-
cheater and Salford 481, Bury 42, Endingden 7 (Irwell), Oldliani
83 (Medlock),Middloton 10 (Irk), Bolton 83, Famworth S n.,Eindley
S (Crole), EooMale 45, Baeup U (Eoehe), Todmorden 12 (Calder).
Dalton, Kivkham, Lytlinni, Fleetwood, Widnes, Blackpool, TjldeBle}-,
Cburohj Ileotwood, Muuh-Wolton, Great Harwood, Heywood, Droylsdeu,
Newton in Makor&eld.
WeEtmoreland.— Apflesv 3 (Eden), Kendal 13 [Ken).
Kkkby-Stephen, Kirk by -Lonsdale, Orton.
Cumherland.— Cabosle 31 (Eden), Pewith 7 (Eamont), WJiite-
haven 18 (west coast), Maryport 0 (EUen), Workington 6, Cocker-
month 7 (Derwent).
IWigton, Brampton, Longton, Keswick, Egremont, Aldetone.
f Sixteen Midlasd Coitnties.
I Derby.— Dehbt 60, Belper 10 (Derwent), CheaterfieU 11 (Eother).
eioaaop 19 n. (Etkerow).
Matlock, BakewolljTidBBWell, Bull ""
fidd, UaitiugtoD, AifretoQ, Clay Croi
MottB or Mottlngham. — Nottik
UanaGeld 8 (Idle), Workaop 7 (Byton).
~ ~ it Ketford, Southwell, Bingham, Kirkby-in-ABbfield.
r ttaSOrd.— Staffoes 14 (Sow), Btirton-on -Trent 16, Newcutia
1 87, Newark 12 (Trent).
118 POLITICAL QEOGRAPHT.
under-Lyne 16, Stoke-upon-Trent 131*(Trent), Leek ]0 (Chturnet),
Lichfield 7 n., Wednesbury 15 n., West Bromwich 17 n., Walsall
46 (Tame), Wolverhampton 68, Bilston 24 n. (Smestow).
Tamworth, Eccleshall, Rugeley, Stone, Tutbory, Uttoxeter, Cheadle,
Penkridge, Cannock, Brewood.
Leicester. — ^Leicester 95, Loughborough 11, Hinckley 6 (Soar).
Melton-Mowbray, Ashby-de-la-Zouche, Market-Harborough, Lutter-
worth, Market-Bosworth.
Rutland. — Oakham 3 (Wreak), Uppinriiam 2 (Welland).
Worcester. — ^Worcester 33 (Severn), Evesham 5 (Upper Avon),
Bromsgrove 5 (Salwarp), Kidderminster 19, Stourbridge 8, Dudley
44, Stourport 10 (Stour).
Bewdley, Upton, Droitwich, Pershore, Tenbury, Great Malvern, Hale-
sowen, Eedditch.
Warwick. — ^Warwick 11, Rugby 8 (Upper Avon), Leamington 15
(Learn), Coventry 39 n. (Sow), T^uneaton 5 (Anker), Birmingham
344 (Rea).
Stratford, Alcester, Henly-in-Arden, Atherstone, Coleshill, Solihull^
Sutton-Coldfield, Kenilworth, Bedworth.
Northampton. — ^Northampton 41, Peterborough 17, Welling-
borough 6 (None), Kettering 5 (Ise).
Daventry, Oundle, Rothwell, Brackley, Towcestcr, Ncueby, Father'
ingay.
Huntingdon. — Huntinodon 4, St Ives 3, St Neots 3 (Great
Ouse).
Ejlmbolton, Ramsey, Godmanchester.
Cambridge. — Cambridge 30 (Cam), Ely 6 (Great Ouse), Wis-
beach 9 (Nene).
March, New Market, Whittlesea.
Gloucester. — Gloucester 18, Tewkesbury 5 (Severn), Bristol 183
(Lower Avon), Stroud 39 (Stroud), Cheltenham 45 (Chelt), Ciren-
cester 6 (Chum).
Thombury, Minchin-Hampton, Lydney, Coleford, Berkeley, Wotton-
under-Edge, Stow, Bisley, Tetbury, Dursley.
.Oxford. — Oxford 32 (Thames), Banbury 4 (Cherwell), Wood-
stock 8 (Glyme).
Henley, Bampton, Thame, Deddington, Bicester, Witney, ChippiDg-
Norton.
Bucks or Buddngham. — Buckingham 4 (Great Ouse), Great Mar-
low 6 (Thames), Aylesbury 6 (Thame).
Eton. Olney, Newport-Pagnell, Stony Stratford, Chesham, Slou^,
High Wycombe, Amersham, Ivinghoe, Wendover, Princes-Risborou^
Bedford. — Bedford 17 (Great Ouse), Luton 10 (Lea).
Potton, Biggleswade, Leighton-Buzzard, Dunstable.
Herts or Hertford. — Hertford 7, Ware 5 (Lea), Bishop-Stort-
ford 5 (Stort), St Albans 8 (Cohie), Hitchen 6 (Hiz).
* Inclndlng Hanley, Bnrslem, and LoDgton.
r
EKCLiXD AND WALE9. 119
H idloea 3 (Sev
^k. OaiOtgui.-
■fcveo). Ten
^B CamiarUu
Bamot, Watford, fleniBl-Raaipslod, BertLampstead, TAag, Baldock.
Middlesex. — London 3252 — inoluding tha City, WeatminBter,
Maryleboae, Finsbury, Tower HamletB.Southwark, and Lambeth — ■
Brenifowj, the county town, 9 (ThameB).
HonnElow, Twickenhnm, Hampton, Stainei, Totteohara, Enfield, 0i-
itnidfTS, Harrow, Fulbam.
L TwELTB 'Welsh Cockties.
PUnt— Mold 3 (Allen), Holywell 6, Flint 4 fDee), Rhyl 3 (Clwyd).
Toma behceen 1000 and 2500.— Rhyddlao, St Asaph, Unnordsn.
Deabl^— Dehbioh6, EathinS {Clwyd), Wresham 9, Llangollen
S (Dee), Abergele 3 (comt).
Obziibxvoil — Carsartoh 9. Bangor 7 (Menai Strait), Oonway 3,
LlanrwHt 3 (Conway), Pwllheli 3, Llandudno 2 (Coast).
An^eRBS.— Beauuahis 2 (Aleuiti Strait), Amlwch 3 (i^. coast),
Holyhead 6 (Holy L)
Merlonett—DoLOELLT 2 (Maw), Eala 2 (Dee).
■antEOmar?. — Mohtooueby 1, Wekhpool T, Kewtowu 6, Lltm-
idloea 3 (Severn).
- -■ Camjiqan 4 (Teify), Aberystwith 7 (Yatwith).
-Pkmbp.okk 14, Haverfordwest 7, Milford 3 (Milford
_. _ j), Teoby 4 (S.E. Coast).
OBMoartlien.— Caemabthbn 10, Llandeilo 6 (Towey), Llanelly
11 (S. Coast).
eiaanarsiui.— Cabdifp 40 (Severn), Swansea 52 (Tawy), Neath 9
(Neath), Merthyr-Tydfil 97 (Tatf).
BroClnuick.— Brecon 6 (Dak), Haj; 2 (Wye).
Sadnor. — New EiUHoa 2 (SomergiU), Preateign 2 (Lngg).
DBBcriptlTe Botes, — By thecenaos of 1871 there were in England
and Walea fourteen towns having upwarda of 100,000 population —
(London, Liveqiool, Mancheater, Birmingham, Leeds, Sheffield,
Bristol, Greenwich, Bradford, Newcastle, Salford, Hull, Portamonth,
and Stoke -upon-Trent) ; twenty between 100,000 and 50,000 (Sun-
derland, Leicester, Brighton, Praaton, Mertbyr-Tydfil, NottioE-
ham, Oldham, Bolton, Norwich, Elackborn. Huddersfield, Plymoutfi,
ffoivorhampton, Halifas, Southampton, Bath, Stockport, Swansea,
"erby, Devonport); forty-eight between 60,000 and 20,000, eighty
itween 20,000 and 10,000, and one htmdred and twenty between
Kl,000 and 6,000.
The Sevek Eastern Coukties.
NoRranMBERLASO, the m
ths Twood on the JJ. and II
limeatona in the N. and W., millstone erit and the ooal-meEaures in the
S.E., extending southnard to thaTeea In Durbani, and forming tho most
eelebrstod coal-field in the world, and the source of immBneo woalth to
Oie mining and mannfHOturing population of the N.E, of the kinijdam.
Tha Tyna flovra tlirough tLe centre of tbia precioua mineral deposit, and
120 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
the towns in its basin are all prospering. The Cheviot breed of sheep is
celebrated. Newcastle, on tne Tyne, 10 miles from its month, is the
centre of the coal trade in the north of England, and the fifth commer-
cial city in the kingdom; being only excell«i by London, Liverpool,
Bristol, and Hnll. There are 50 coal-pits within a distance of 8 miles of
it, yielding upwards of 3,000,000 tons annually, and large manufactories
of steam-macninery and glass. It is the birthplace of the poet Aken-
side, and of Lord Chancellor Eldon. Tynemouth and Shields are the
seaports of Newcastle. Morpeth, on the Wansbeck, with manufactures
of woollen goods and leather. Berwick, on the north side of the Tweed,
famous in the annals of border warfare, was long independent of both
kingdoms, and still enjoys the privileges of a county. Ottetbnrn, a
village of Northumberland, near which, in 1388, was fought the battle
of Chevy Chase, between Percy, Earl of Northumberland, and Earl
Douglas.
Durham, between the Tyne and the Tees: Millstone Grit, coal-
measures, permian, and trias. Famous for its rich coal-deposits, and the
Teeswater breed of short -homed cattle. Lead, iron, and grinding-
stones are largely exported. Surface mountainous in the W., and covered
with heath. A large portion of the land belongs to the bishOT)ric of
Durham. Durham, on the Wear, the seat of one of the four ^glii^
Universities, contains a celebrated cathedral, a castle built by William
the Conqueror, and has valuable collieries in the vicinity. Sunderland,
one of the principal ports of England for the shipment of coal. Ship-
building is extensively carried on j has an immense cast-iron bridge over
the Wear, whose single arch is 237 feet in span. Bishop-Aucidand,
the residence of the Bishop of Durham, whose See was the wealthiest in
the kingdom till lately, wnen the revenue was reduced from £22,000 a-
year to £8000. Gateshead, a suburb of Newcastle, on the opposite side
of the Tyne ; a great fire in 1854 destroyed much life and property.
Stockton and Darlington are united by one of the earliest constructed
railways in the kingdom. Hartlepool — steam navigation to Hambuig,
Rotterdam, Antwerp, and Scotland.
Yorkshire, the largest, and one of the most populous, counties of
England (area 5981 sq. m., pop. 2,436,113), lies between the Tees and
the Humber ; consists of three divisions called Ridings {thirds, in Anglo-
Saxon) — viz., the North, East, and West Ridings, which all meet at
York. It embraces all the geological formations, in rc^gular succession,
from the mountain limestone in the W. to the chalk and tertiaries in
the B. The West Riding is the chief seat of the mining and manufac-
turing industry of England, the coal-measures being more accessible
there : its fine broadcloths and other woollen fabrics are unrivalled
throughout the world : cotton, flax, and silk mills are also very nume-
rous. The North Riding is principally oolitic, and is chiefly famous as
a grazing country. The East Riding is, for the most part, cretaceous
and tertiary, and comprises the hilly district called " the Wolds." York,
on the Ouse, near the centre of the county, where the three Ridings con-
verge, is, in point of ecclesiastical rank, the second city in the kingdom,
— ^the Archbishop of York being the highest ecclesiastical dignitary next
to the Archbishop of Canterbury ; and the cathedral, called York Min-
ster, is the finest structure of the kind in England. Goole, at the conflu-
ence of the Ouse and Don, and at the termination of the Aire and Calder
navigation. Selby, the birthplace of Henry I. Ripon, where a conference
took place between the English and Scottish Commissioners, with a view
to adjust the diflerences between Charles I. and his Scottish subjects, in
ESGl-iND ASH WALES, 121
■W4D- flail, or Kingfiton-npon-Hail, Ie tbe fonrtb comTnerTxal city in
aigland ; in ISSS, 3ir3B fihii-a eulCTsd, carrj-iiig abont 700,000 tooB— iu
Bnnual erfiurts excaad £12,000,000 Btorlinj^ Iwing the great outlet for
the DUiiinfiLctiuH of the West Riding. Baverl;, cBpitol of the Eaet lad-
ing, eontiuae a beautiful iniiieteT, dutjng from the ISOs century — vhiDli,
like Bolyrood, Ima the privilege of aanetniiiy. BonDarter, ou the Dotj,
fianDOEfaritfliuiniuiJ rw^^E- fiheffleld, aoted lorcntleT^'Bnd platedgaode,
'in which it in necand only to Binuinfliani. SBriiBle;,Dnthe r>Ganie,tbB
chief Best of the linen trade. BotTiBTbnni, at the coiiSuenoe of the I>Dii
and Bother, hu mauufuctun^ of all kinds of inin goods, including cim-
naat, machinery, t.c Fontefraot {Fom&etl, vjth a famnus castlt dl-»
ID mins, where Richard IL died. LeedE, Bradfcird, HKlifos, and Httd-
ihrnr^pMi vttli the other tcwM in the buain of the Aire, are the principal
■est of the woollen trade, for wlikh the "West Riding ie no celeteited.
IiBBdB alone has 106 woollen miUs. Xradfinrd has coIlegsE for Ba,ptiBt£,
IndepGiidBntf, and Wesii^yanE, and ie the jiruicipik] eest •.tt tlie warEtei3-
jBm iDBmifnciure. EnBreBboron|rh ; in the Tiainilj is the far-famed
" diopjuug-wall, ' ' of strongly pfltrilying qnalitj'. Bcaxborongi and
■■nSgate, fimiouB for their mineral wate™, which are Jiiglily luiSicinal.
WlStij, an important Beaport tovm, on the Esk, the hiitlij^sce of Cop-
liiin Oook, tbe navigntnr.
iJUUXajmBmE, betrceea the Hnmber and the Wseb, contsinB aU the
- - ' ■ 1 f ormationfl in regular eucoeBsion, from tbe lina in the W. to Iba
n the E. and S,; it oonsiete of three widely differei^t districte —
aiDon in the W., the aaidi in tbe N.E., and the feat in liie B.
d E. TbafiKi ore a yeit of tbe oelebmt«d Bedford Level— on inmiBUsB
[p pBTtiaOy drained two centuries ago liy tlie Ead of Bedford, and
Bw TflBiftinder lecentlj by tbe Rritinh G-DvemmBnl — -and form tbe best
}mtiu«-land in £u^lBiid. Tbe wo^tfi ore a line of chalk downs, nbich
oxtSDdt from namboroncb Bead to tbe coast of DoiTCtshire. The viimn
■n now moatl}' cultiTHted, LincDiiL, tbe uBpital, on tbe Withsm. is noted
for its beantihJ catliedral, wbich ccntaiiu' a pLgaiitie hell called Turn
Of Lincoln. At the time of the Conqueat, tbe "■ itimio was naTlgnWe for
laree -reaselB np to the town, and Lincoln formed then one of the prind.
dbT Bea]iorte in tbe kingdom. BoBtus has a fine chorcli, with a tower
that lerveB be a ligbthouBe for the nayigation of tbe "Wash. ' ' "
was a place of aome coLBequBUce even in Baion ttir— "*~
lonfl] Bend large quantltiea of com to London. GrBai uruueoj nus a
fine barbonr and cilGiialve docks. GaiaBborDagli. on the Treot. with
BDaaidernble irJand trade, eiporls hardware and maunlactnred goods.
SOKltiLK, batweentheWaah and tlie Wavenej. — Priiidpally crelaoenns,
bitttertiEty in the E.; ooaat-lino low, sncface level; ami, a ligbt eandy
Inus, well fitted for barley at^d tnmips, which coiistitnte tbe principal
CTop« ; eitaiuyvE nianufactnreB of wooUen and sHk fabrics ; great nuni-
Imn of tnrkeys and geeiie art reared for the London market. Horwinb.
aa the Tare, Qie fin^ city in the £. of England, was tbe birthplace of
Ut £amufl] Clarke and of Ambbisborh Poj^m'. long famous for its woraUd
mamifactareb. first introdaeed \<y the Flemings in Ibe eiiteentb centur;-,
sod now for ii« bominsineE and crape ; has a liuge cathedral, with a epire
Klg fset h'gb. Tanmniiili, aJao on tbe Xars, noted for its hacriDg-
fiahBiy, tbe most important in £uglaud, and for he roadstead, lying
f^weeD the coent and a dangerous amdlmnk in the viciuity. Ijim-Begu,
Eing'a-Lviui, on the Oisat Onse, here lOOO feet broad.
Jtraroii,' between the Waveneyaiid the Btonr— Chalk in thf "W.. ta-
TS in the £. ; soiface level, nod soil well cultivated, pioduuiDg wheat.
122 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
barley, beans, oats, turnips, "hemp, and hops. Lpswich, with extennTO
iron and silk manulactures, is the birthplace of Cardinal Wolsey. Sud-
bury, on the Stour, sent two members to the House of Commons, but
was lately disfranchised for bribery. Lowestoft, the most eastern town
in the British Isles. Bury St Edmund's has a large com and cattle
market, which lasts for three weeks.
Essex, between the Stour and the Thames. — Almost wholly tertiary;
surface flat and marshy in the S., but richly wooded and beautifufiy
diversified in the centre and N. ; soil rich, and famous for its wheat crops.
Chelmsford, at the confluence of the Chelmer and Cann, and on the Great
Eastern Kailway. Maldon exports fish and agricultural produce. Saf-
firon-Walden, so named from the saffron plant, formerly cultivated here.
Colchester, on the Colne, crossed here by seven bridges ; its manufac-
tures of silk are declining. Halstead, with manufactures of silks,
velvets, satins, and straw-plait. Harwich has the finest harbour on
the east coast of England, and steam communication with Rotterdam.
The Ten Southebn Cou^TIES.
Kent, between the Thames and the Rother. — Tertiary in the N., chalk
and greensand in the centre and E., and the wealden, a fresh-water
deposit, in the S. ; surf'ace hilly — two small ranges traverse the county
from W. to E. — but the S. low and level, containing Romney Marsh and
•'the Weald ;" soil and climate excellent, and agriculture in a highly
advanced state, with products more varied than any other English county;
wheat, barley, and hops of very superior quality, and numerous orchards
of cherries, plums, and filberts. Maidstone, on the Medway, the chief
seat of the hop trade. Sheemess, Chatham, Woolwich, and Beptfordv
with royal dockyards and arsenals. Tunbridge Wells, with medicinal
waters, a fashionable resort for the Londoners. Hythe, Dover, Bomney,
and Sandwich, four of the five Cinque Ports (Hastings in Sussex being
the fifth). Eolkestone, the birthplace of Harvey, the discoverer of the
circulation of the blood. Dover, on the Strait of Dover, is only 21 miles
from the French coast, and is the chief point of communication between
England and the Continent. Deal, near the Goodwin Sands, maintains
a numerous staff of pilots for steering vessels tlu'ough the Downs. Sams-
gate, Margate, and Gravesend, convenient resorts for tbe population of
London. Canterbury, the ecclesiastical cap. of England, was a place of
some importance in the time of the Romans, and afterwards the cap. of
the Saxon kingdom of Kent. The Archbishop of Canterbury is the
primate of England, and, after the royal family, ranks as the first peer of
the reiJm. weenwich is celebrated for its naval hospital, and its royal
observatory, from which the longitude on all British maps and charts is
reckoned.
Sussex (" South Saxons "), between the Rother and Chichester Harbour.
The wealden in the N. and E., greensand, chalk, and tertiary in the W.
and S.; surface diversified; "the Weald" is level, moderately fertile,
and from time immemorial famous for its forests ; the South Downs —
a range of chalk hiUs — traverse the cretaceous portion from W. to E.,
terminating at Beachy Head. South of the Downs there is a considerable
tract of fertile soil belonging to the tertiary formation. Climate mild,
and harvests early, but agriculture in a rather backward state ; hops ex-
tensively raised in the E. The breeds of cattle and sheep are in high
repute. Chichester, on the Lavant, in the S.W. of the county, occupy-
ing a fine situation at the foot of the South Downs^ is the birthplace of
ENGLAND AND WALES. 123
.11 Collins. Brighton, a romantic nnd benutifnl town, the gayest
of English watering- places, wilh an estensivt uiarine promenade. Hart-
iaga, the prindpul of the CinquF Ports, the scene or s famons battle, in
1066, between Harold 11., the Inat Saion kdng, and William the Con-
qneror. laWM, where Siniun do Montfort and the bttrans defeated Henry
III. in 1264 Eastbonma, a rspiiUj rising watering-place.
SUBBET, between Snaaei and tho Thames.— Weald in the 8., greensand
>nd chalk in the centre, sod tertiar; in the N. The North Downs run
from W. to E.; the W. largely covenid with heath, biit rertila soil in the
tertiary part, A large pDrtionnndBTtillage, and hops esteusivoly raised;
another large portion hiid ont as kitchen-gardens, for supplying the nietra-
''■ polls with yegetablea ; woods eiteiisite, butngricnltnre backwari Gnild-
% on tha Wey, and 17 milea from London, has considerable tralEo in
__-3, maJt, and coals. Qeptibrd, partly in Kent, with large naval araenal
■jIUid docbyarda. Sontliwark and Lambeth now form parts of London ;
K.JB the latter ie Lambeth Palace, the residence of the Archbishop of Can-
Iwbnry. Eidunond, with a celebrated park, lathe burial-place of Thorn -
m tha poet, and of Kean the tragedian, Kingston, where the lirst
rmed force in the Parliamentary war assembled.
■n i._.._gg^ Hampahire and the TluiTues- Coral-rag in the N.,
„ chalk in the centre, and tertiary in the B. A tract o(
cbatk downs eifenda through the centre ; Windsor forest and park in the
E.; aoil lertilo; agricnltnre backward; niannfactnrea nnimiiortant, hnt
exteneiTB trade in iaricultural produce. Beading, the birthplace of
Arohbiabop Laud. 'WlndMr, celebrated for its palace and park; the
former, the most magnllicent regal palace in the lEingdom, was founded
by the Conqueror, aud is the favourite residence of tho sovareigu; the
tatter, containing Windsor Forest, is SB miles in circumference.
EAHia, chiefly included between Chichester Harbour and the Hamp-
■hire Avon. Chalk in the K., tertiary in the 8. The North and South
Downs traverse tho county, and tha south coast ia deeply indented ; for
the most part well wooded, with eitonsive forests of oak and birch ; soil
good, ami panerally well cultivated, producing excellent hops; its cider
and bacon in high repute. The Isle of Wight, which ia tertiary in the N.
and greensand and weald in the S., is considered the garden of England.
■WlnchBitBT was long the capital of England; here many of the SflKcn
princei are interred. Soathamjiton, the entrepfit for some of tha greatest
oe«an steam lines in. the world : here the maila are made up and de-
■patched to the East and West Indies, China, and the Mediterranean.
Udorer, one of the largest cattle-markets in England. Fortsmoath, tho
headqnarlers of the British royal navy, with ertensive dockyards and
mnenal ; the harbour unequalled in the kingdom, and the fortress con-
^ered impregnable. Newport, the capital of the Isle of Wight.
Wilts, N.W. of Hants and 8, of the Thames. Oolitic inN. and W.,
cretace<yns in the 5. and K The centra ia occupied by the elevated tabla-
land of Salisbnry Plain, in which nearly all the rivora of tho county rise;
Hril highly fertde, eapecially in the eitreme N. and S., hut the central
plateau produces only scanty herbage ; the most remarkable nhjects here
■re tbe far-famed Dnddical remams of Stoncbeugo and Avebury, oti
which mueh antiquarian reaearoh has been espended. Sftlisbury, with a
magniflcent Gothic cathedral ; the spire, the highest in Britain, rises to
aMigbt of W4feet, Be viiei, Bradford, Trowbridge, Chippennum, and
VonbniT, have extensive niannfaetnres of woollens and line cloths.
'" " ' ■ StoMlieage, and Million Eeotory, the birthpUce
otAddJaon.
124 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Dorset, on the English Channel, for the most part between the Hamp-
shire Avon and the Lyme. — Cretaceous in the E., and oolitic in the W,
Surface level in the N., but traversed by chalk hi1l« in the centre, where
numerous flocks of sheep find pasture. Dairy produce highly important,
and large commerce in rortland and Purbeck stone, coarse marble, and
potter's clay. Dorchester, a place of great antiquity, with the remains
of a huge Roman amphitheatre. Poole, a large seaport, lai^ely engaged
in the Newfoundland fishery. Bridport ; shipbuildmg, cordage, fiBning'
nets, and sailcloth. Sherborne, the residence of Sir W. Raleigh.
Somerset, between Dorset and the Bristol Channel — Greatiy diversi-
fied, and embracing all the formations from the old red to the oolite.
Coast-line and surface in*e^lar ; the Mendip and Qaantock hills divide
the county into three divisions ; fertile along the rivers, and there dairy
husbandry is pursued with great success, but in other jparts there are
extensive wastes, as Exmoor in the W. Coal, calamine, iron, lead, and
fuller's earth are obtained : the principal manufactures are wooUens,
silks, linens, paper, glass, and iron-wares. Many antiquities. Tannton,
where Judge Jefi&eys held the bloody assize after the battle of Sedgemoor.
Bath, on the Lower Avon, long the most fashionable watering-place in
the kingdom, is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. Frome, long
noted for its ale. Wells, with a noble cathedral, erected in the thirteenth
century. Bridgewater, the birthplace of Admiral Blake, is noted for its
high tides. Weston-super-Mare, from an insignificant village, has risen
into a favourite watering-place.
Devon, between the English and Bristol Channels. — The centre and W.
carboniferous, and the seat of some of the most valuable mines in Eng«
land, especially copper and tin ; the S. and extreme N., Devonian; New
red and greensand in E. ; surface greatly broken, but generally fertile,
except Exmoor and Dartmoor. The climate in winter is very mild, the
average temperature being 44*. Most kinds of grain are raised, and the
county is famed for its cider. The red Devon breed of cattle is highly
valued. Herring, pilchard, mackerel, and dory fisheries important.
Exeter, a fine old town with a beautiful cathedral, with manufactures of
paper, gloves, and lace. Plymouth and Devonport, closely contiguous,
are principal stations of the royal navy ; noted for a naval arsenal, and for
a stupendous breakwater which cost £1,200,000. Tavistock, the birth-
place of Sir Francis Drake, and of William Browne the poet. Torquay
(Torke^), on Tor Bay, the resort of numerous invalids. Barnstaple has
considerable trade in timber with Canada and the Baltic.
Cornwall, in the extreme S.W. of the kingdom. — Devonian for the
most -p&Ttf interspersed with i^eous rocks, but carboniferous in the
N.E. ; surface rugged ; soil indifferent ; scantily timbered ; climate mUd,
salubrious, but very humid. Its tin mines are the most celebrated in
the world, and have been wrought from remote antic[uity. The metalli-
ferous district extends from Dartmoor, in Devonshire, to Land's End;
but the richest mines are in the S.W. of the county. Copper is also
abundant ; and lead, silver, zinc, iron, manganese, antimony, cobalt, and
bismuth exist in many localities. Bodmin, on the Camel, engaged in the
manufacture of coarse woollen stufl^. Camborne, Bedmth, and Mara-
zion, with valuable copper-mines. St Ives and St Agnes,, famous for
their unriv^ed tin mines. Penzance, Tmro, and Lannceston, are called
the "Stannery towns," being those to which the miners carry their
blocks of tin, in order to be stamped by Government agents. Falxnontii,
a &vourite resort of our fleets in time of war, and a mail-packet station.
TliE SeTBN "WaSiTEEK COCKTIBB.
r
^H MoNuonTH, between tLe Wye and the EoiDiiey. — UeToaian for tlie
^f most part, but carboniferons in tie estreme W. and E. ; surface pic-
^ tnnBijael j varied vpith faill and dale, snd Hnely woDdsd ; coal, ironstouc,
and luneBtaue abundant ; Hannel the cbief manufacture ; man; Britiiin
and Bonian Teuioina ; the "Welsh lan^age and manners prevalent; and
in general the coim^ may be considered aa rather Welsh than English.
Koninontli, on the Wye, the birthplace of Heniy V., and of Geoffrey of
Monmouth the amialist ; with extensive manufactures of bar-iron, tin-
]ilatea, and paper. Seirport exporU cool, iron, and tin, which are coii-
Teyed hither from South Wales ; large trade in shipbuilding and iton-
foundriet. Tredenir, noted for its eoal-minea aad ironworks.
Heeeeoed, in the basin of the Severn. — Almost wholly Devonian ; sur-
face beautifully diversified, and presenting sotne of the Uneat scenery in
ancT admirably aikpted for agriculture; climate remarkably healtliy ;
iqtples, lions, and oak bark are important arliclea of commerce ; and tho
breeda of iheep and cattle are celebrated for their excel] eacB. Heretbrd
(Her'.e-ford) on the Wye, the birthplace of David Ganick, tho comedian,
uid of Nell Gwynn, the favourite miatresB of Charlca IL IieominBter
JLem'-Bter), famed for the quality of its cider, and for manufactures of
leather, gloves, bata, and woollen.
SalOe, in the basin of the Severn. ^ — Silurian strata, containing lead
minei in the S.W., new red sandstone, with rock-salt, in the N., and
Devonian beds and coal in the remainder ; snrface mountainous in the fi.,
comparatively level in the N. ; Sua meadow.huida near the Severn; hops
and orchards in the S., coal snd iron in the £., lead in the W., and salt
in the N. The manofacturea are, chioa ware, flannels, carpete, linen,
gloves, and paper. Agood deal of cheese is made, and large flocks of
turkeys are reared. Sfirewabury, on the Severn, where a bloody engagB-
ment took place, in 1JU3, between tho troops of Henry IV. and the
Pecciea, in which Hotspur was killed. Bridgenortb, eite^isively engaged
in the carpet manufacture. BrDseley, noted for its iron-foundries (luiown
at tbe Colebtookdale works) ; a suapenslon-hridge over the Severn here
WBB the fliBt erected in England ; near it is Colebiookdale, famous for its
petroleum or tar springs.
CHraHiHB, a maritime county between the Mersey and the Dee. — Nearly
all of new red aandstone, containing an ineihaustible supply of roeis-
salt ; euiface level, well wooded, and etuddcd with many sniall lakes ;
(Oil, clay or sandy loam; climale moist. The county is noted for its
dairy produce, and especially for its cheese. Coal, copper, lead, rock-
utt, and cobalt are among its mineral products, and the principal manu-
&otares are cottons and silks. Chester, on the Dee, exports cheese in
large qmotitics, and is the burial-place of Matthew Benry the commen-
tator, and of the poet FamelL Biikenliead, a now town on the estuary
of the Mereey, opposite Liverpool, fast nsing into importance. Stock
port has coal abundant in the vicinity, and t^e manufactures of cotton,
silk, machinery, brass, and iron goods. Etaley Bridge, extensively en-
gaged in the cotton inannfacture. Blaocleafield employs 10^000 bands in
■iUi-weaving. Crewe, on the London and North- Weetem Bailway, is ■
great railway depAt.
LuiCABalEiE, a maritime county between the Mersey and Uorecambe
Bay. — Mainly carboniferons, but new red sandfitone in the W., lined
126 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
with post-tertiary deposits ; mountainous in the N. and along the K
border, elsewhere generally level ; climate mild but very humid ; i>astare-
l^ids more extensive than the arable ; potatoes extensively cultivated,
and horticulture largely pursued. Copper, ironstone, and lead ore pre-
vail extensively ; but the county owes its celebrity, wealth, and popular
tion to its manufactures and commerce. It is the grand seat of the
cotton manufacture, which has increased since 1770 with a rapidity alto-
gether unparalleled in the history of industry. Woollen, fla^ and silk
ifactories are also numerous. During the last hundred years the popula-
tion (now 2,818,904) has increased eightfold. A complete network of
rdlways, and several important canals, afford means of rapid conveyance
to all parts of the kingdom. Lancaster, on the Lune, with a superi>
aqueduct over the river. Liverpool, a large and flourishing city, and the
second commercial port in the kingdom, is situated on the estuary of the
Mersey, about four miles from its mouth, and 32 miles from Manchester,
vnih which it is connected by railway. It carries on a vast maiithne
trade, especi^y with the United States, importing thence cotton wooL
and exporting cotton cloth. In 1869, 23,938 ships entered and deajed
the port, with a tonnage of 9,277,714 tons. In 1860, before the
American war began, the cotton imported into Liverpool amounted to
1,417,000,000 lb. Liverpool is the chief outlet for the manufactures of
lAucashire, Staffordshire, and the west of Yorkshire. Manchester, on
the Irwell, across which it communicates by six bridges with Saluid,
which may be regarded as its suburb ; united population, 480,000. It is
the great centre of the cotton manufacture, and probably the greatest
manufacturing city in the world. The other principal " cotton towns "
in the county are Preston, Blackburn, Burnley, Wigan, Chorley, Ash-
ton-under-Lyne, Oldham, Bury, Middleton, Bolton, and Rochdale.
Westmorlai9T>, between the Pennine Hills and Morecambe Bay, is
only very partially a maritime county. — Cumbrian strata in the W.,
Silurian in the centre, carboniferous in the E., and Permian in the N. ; a
country of mountains, lakes, and picturesque scenery ; climate humid ;
soil various, and agriculture improving ; cattle of large 8i2e, sheep nume-
rous, their wool being sent to the Yorkshire woollen manufactories ; great
flocks of geese raised for exportation ; slate is quarried in great quanti-
ties, as also granite, marble, copper, and lead ; char, and other lake fish,
extensively exported. Appleby, on the Eden ; the castle held out long
against the Parliamentarj' army under Oliver CromwelL yfti><la.|^ on
the Ken, one of the oldest manufacturing towns in the kingdom ; its
cloths, manufactured by Flemish weavers, were famous in l£e time of
Richard II.
Cumberland, a maritime county in the extreme N.W., between the
Pennine chain and the Irish Sea. An extensive area of Cumbrian strata
in the S., with igneous rocks interspersed ; carboniferous, Permian, and
triassic in the centre and N. ; sui&ce rugged and mountainous, inter-
spersed with beautiful lakes, presenting the most magnificent scenery in
^gland. Climate extremely moist : Seathwaite, where 183 in. of rain
fell in 1861, and at the Stye 224 in. in 1866, are perhaps the rainiest dis-
tricts in Europe. In consequence of this extreme moisture, agriculture is
chiefly confined to stock-breeding ; and green crops attain to great perfec-
tion, especially Swedish turnips. Principal minerals are silver, copper,
lead, iron, and coal. Near Whitehaven are extensive beds of coal and
hffimatite, and at Borrowdale there is a mine of plumbago. The chief man-
ufactures are cottons, coarse linens, checks, and woollens ; and the lakes
yield abundance of char, trout, pike, and perch. Carlislei an episcopal
ENGIAKD AKD WAIXS.
Fmudth haa
eUand BiDiy under Prince Clinrles.
f cottcm, linea, Bud wuDlleD gDnda.
of coaJ, mtd of t.he inm-ore called
ouf wsf under the sea. KarTport
' --' CockEniumtk, the
Lnve cnnaiderable trade i
1 tiie potit 'WordswDTtli. Stewiek mmmlBCtiLres bIa<:k-!BBd
the plumhaf-D miueb of Barrowdole. Heie Southty the poet
The Sixteen Midlasb CorKTiEB.
a central connt; in the bssm of the Trent. Ouofl; carbonifer-
[lew red eaudstone in the S. Stufoeii momitiiii^aB in the S.,
fi ihe Pennine nrngB ifirminatet in the Peak of Derby ; elsewiierE
ThePeak district ahcmnds in rtimontic BceneiT, in nBtiir&l corioaj-
ud-mines. Climate bracing and fialnhrioDH; soil reddiflh
D th£ S., when grmn and great goantitiue of choeae are
is Ehigularly rich in niinerBle ; coal, lead, iron,
ir^Bpar are urought to a great erlHnt. Collieries
. IS ; principal maiiuiBctures. eilk, uouon, metallic
porcalBiu. DerW, on the Derwent, at tlie ertreniity of a
, Td on the Sidlaud EaCwiij, is t'HVnurablj situated for ibbud-
s and CniilB — nolBd for its ailka, porcelain, marble aud fiuur-Bpar
Bdiier, vith lar^ Dotton botories and pottcriea. Chener-
ind bIUe nmnulactures ; with mines of ijva, cool, and lead iu
r. eloB»i^,near the Peak of Derby, is the ciaeS seat of tlie
D niBnufactnre lu the comity. SatloGk and Burton, celebrated for
aineial watera, VirkEwortlh, viUi an extensive and valuabie lead-
— a Duntrol county in the liotdn of the Trent, Cuol and Pemuan
., liss in ri, £,, and millatone pit in the remainder, Burtace
I; climate remariiably dry, prDbably owing to the Derbjaliire
Is intoru^ititig the uiuist B.'W. wiucU ; soil eilliei' d^ey or h^i^ and
' ; agriciUture wall advanced ; minoralB abnndant, eapeoi^y Goal
' is tiie prinuq^al seat ol the cuttnn hosiety, and OT laoe-
.. . -DttiiiglUBn, on the Trent, is tlie pieat oantte of liiB
s roanafactBrE. B'ewark. where CkarlaB I.^after liu defeat at fiaaeby.
"eld. mandhcirnree uf
Voiksop, in H difr-
, a central cciinly iu the basins oE the Trent and SevcnL ,
I; corliDuiferauB, hut new red t>uud»toue iti the oeutre ; Buiiiics
,he centre, iilly in the S., mooriaud iu N.K Cbninte chilly.
io tlie ekcation ; much tain in some parts ; iHo-thirds of the aor-
Itirautd, Imt farming lass iuipurtant than the mininc ojnnatiouE,
lb thit county holdE the third muk in England. Xoeie are twu
limlile coal-fields, one in the K., called the potteiy coal-field,
«tiie great numbar uf potteries that liavebseu eatabLslied on it;
I othBT in the B., called the Dudley coal-field, celebrated for the
n ^jts semus of coal, and for the eicelleuce and lichuess of its
_H. BesideB coal, the moEt importuut mineral pj'oduct is tiiu
7 clay, which 1ms made the county so celebrated for its eartheo-
~ ~ ■ p tlie Bow, the birthplace ol Isaac Walton. Bnrtaa-
lor iti ales, haa a bridge cier the stet iBckooBd the
128 POUTICAL GEOGRAPHY.
longest in England, with thirty-seven arches. Newcastle-under-Lyiie.
noted for its hats — near it Etmria, the famous pottery establishment of
Josiah Wedgwood. Stoke-upon-Trent, Haalev, and Bnnlem, with
some other towns in the vicinity, are ctdled '* The Potteries," owing to
their immense manufacture of earthenware. Lichfield, the birthplace of
Samuel Johnson. West Broziwich, WalsaU, and Bilstoxiy wita gresfe
ironworks. Wolverhampton, noted for its furnaces and hardware mnliB.
Letoester, an inland county in the basin of the Trent. Some coal in
the W. ; new red, with igneous rocks, in the centre, and lias in the K
Surface undulating— a fine grazing county, noted for its sheep, horses,
and cattle^ and for Stilton cheese. It is the principal seat of the woollen
hosiery manufacture. The principal minerals are coal, iron, and lead.
Leicester (Les'-ter), on the Soar, the principal seat of the woollen hosiery
manufacture. Longhborotigh, nosiery of all kinds. Hinckley, cotton
and worsted stockings.
Rutland, the smallest county in England (area 152 sq. m.), in thA
basins of the Trent and Welland. Lias in the western half, and oolite in
the eastern. Surface undulating and diversified with parks j the eastern
half chiefly under tillage, and western half under pasture ; soil everywhere
loamy and rich ; great attention is paid to the rearing of sheep and oxen.
Oakham manufactures silk shag for hats. Uppingham, a small town on
the Welland.
Worcester, in the basin of the Severn. New Bed in W., lias in centrBy
and oolite in the E. ; some coal found in N. Surface generally level, but
having the Malvern Hills in S.W., and the Bredon Hills in S.K Soil
fertile, well watered, and richly wooded ; wheat and hops extensively
raised, and orchards numerous. Principal minerals are coal, found at
Dudley, building-stone, and clay. The Kew Bed at Droitwicn contains
brine-spring. Manufactures, carpets, elass, ironware, gloves, porcelain,
needles, and fish-hooks. Worcester (Woos'-ter), on the Severn, a hand-
some and very ancient city, noted for its porcelain, reckoned the finest in
England, ^dderminster, producing the finest carpets in England.
Stourbridge has manufactures of glass and earthenware. Dudley, in the
** Black Country," has a famous coal-field, part of which has been on fire
for a century ; is one of the principal seats of the iron trade. Stonrport
is the seat of a busy trade in com, coal, and timber.
Warwick, in the basins of the Severn and Trent. Lias- in S., new red
in the centre, carboniferous and Permian in the N. Surface elevated, and
diversified by gentle hills and vales ; climate mild and salubrious ; soil
generally very fertile and well cultivated, and a great part of it in per-
manent pasture. The most valuable minerals are coal, limestone, sand-
stone, blue flagstone, and marl. Manufactures very important, especially
hardware, arms, watches, jewellery, silk, and ribbons. Warwick (Wor-
ric), on the Upper Avon. The castle, once the residence of the Earl of
Warwick, is the most complete specimen of a feudal fortress in the king-
dom. Stratford, also on the Avon, the birthplace of the immortal
Shakespeare. Bugby, with a celebrated school, tne scene of Dr Arnold's
labours, stands in the exact centre of England. Leamineton (Lem'-ing-
ton), a fashionable watering-place, with sulphureous, saline, and chaly-
beate springs. Coventry and Nuneaton, the chief seat of the ribbon
manufacture. Birmingham, on the Bea, an affluent of the Tame, and a
sub-tributary of the Trent, is the second manufacturing city in England,
and for hardwares the flrst in the world. It has been called ''the great
toy-shop of Europe," but it is equally famous for all descriptions of
h£u*dware, firearms, and crown-glass. It is surrounded by extensive cosIp
lLEB,
129
Ill-works, and is one of the main centres of cnnal aoA railway
cmonmnicatJon in Englaud. Here eiectro-plttting was invEnled ; and at
Boho In the ricinity is the greatest manufactory of steam-eneines in the
iTorld, condacUd by a firm of wbicb the celebiated Jamee Watt vks a
NOBlHAkPTON, B Mntral county, drainsd by the Nen, Wetland, and
Oose. AlmofC wholly oolite and lias. Surface diTcreined and richly
wooded; eoil mostly aatitF productive Inani ; climate healthy ; agricultnia
well advanced, the chief staple beirg tbe breeding of heavy black horses,
jhort-homed cattle, andeheep; chief manufactures— Bhoes, hobbin-lacc,
and woollen stD&. Horthamptan, on the Nen, the chief seat of the bout
and shoe manufacture. Paterborongli, au cpiscopul see. the birthplace
of Dr Paley ; the cathedral, a splendid edifice, conlains the tomb of
Seen Catharine, fint wife of Henry VIII. 'WelUngborongb, with hoot,
he, and lace manufactures. Kettering, aiUt- wearing, plush, and wool-
oombing. Haaeby.a country pariah, 12 miles N.N.W. of Northampton ;
here in IMS the troops of Charles I. were totally defeated by the Pnrlia-
mentary array. Fotfieringay, 3* milea N. N.E. of Onndle ; its castle is
ramoui as the birthplace of KlcTiacd III., and as the scene of the Im-
priaonment, trial, and eiecution, in 1587, of Mary Queen of Scots,
HcnnSGDON, sometimes called Hunts, an inland cuunty in the basin ot
the Oose. Almost wholly oolitic, but post-tertiary in H.E, Suifacs
gently varied where the oolite prevails, the rest level, and forming a part
of "The Fens." Chmate mild and healthy, except in the fens ; eoil good
■inl aJnioat wholly under cultivation, with agriculture iu an advanced
state, especially In the Bedford Leyel or fens district ; horses extensively
linid, ana much "Stilton cheese" made. Manufactures unimportant.
EiUltlii|[dan, on the Great Ouse, the h. -place of Oliver Cromwell in
IGM ; luB extensive breweiies, and considerable trade in com, wool, coals,
■sd timber. St Ives, large sheep and cattle markets.
CaKbrIDOE, in the basmg of the Great OuM and Nen. Post-tertiary
Id tbe N., oolitic in the centre, greenaand and chalk in the S. and K
SnrCaoe level, marshy, and thmly wooded, and the fens liable to inun-
datlDD ; about a tbii^ of the county luidcr tillage, tbe rest fanning ex-
cellent pOBtuia. The butter of Camhridge and Epping, and the cheese of
Cottenham, are highly valued ; but, on tbe whole, agricnlture if
■backward, and '^- ■— -'.i.-- ■ • ■■
if some pottei
on the C^, L
owrtnry, and ct „ ^ _.
raaowned for mathematics and natural philosophy. Ely, a bishop's see,
nrfth ■ splendid catbedral— tbe only episcojHl city in England which
sends no member to Farliunent. 'Wlsbeaoh, an active river port, en-
gaged in shipbuilding.
Olouqebter, in the basin of the Severn. Frind[)at1y oolite and lias, but
earbonlferons and new red in the W. ; naturally divided into three divi-
■to»— viz., the valley of the Severn in the middle, the Cotswold Hills in
the E., and the forest of Dean in the W. Tbe first is highly fertile, and
Ihe iconery beautiful ; the second is celehrated for its sheepfarming.
The county is cbieHy agricultural, but It is also noted for its cheese,
whieh is nowhere snrpassed. The principal minerals are coat and iron ;
and the manufactures chiefly woollen and cotton cloth. Bloncester
<01os'-ter), a bishop's see, on tbe Severn, has a flue cathedral, and mann-
factnres of cutlery, soap, and pins. Tewkesbury, the scene of a decisive
battle between the houses of York and Lancaster in 1471, Bristol, on
130 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
the Lower Avon, is the tliird seaport in England, and the commercia]
metropolis of the west. The fine nanuels of Wales are finished here ; ex-
tensive iron and brass foundries ; the biithplace of many eminent per-
sons, among whom William of Worcester, Sebastian Cabot, Chatterton,
Bayley, and Southey. Stroud, on a river of same name, the water of
which is peciUiarly adapted for dyeing scarlet, is the centre of the Glou-
cester wool-manufacture. Cheltenham, with its saline medicinal springs,
is the rival of Bath as a watering-place. Cirencester, (Sis'-e-ter), a very
ancient town, had some importance in the time of the Romans. Berkeley,
the birthplace of Dr Edward Jenner, the discoverer of vaccination.
Oxford, in the Thames basin. Principally oolite and lias, but green-
sand and chalk in the S.E. ; surface mostly level or undulating, except in
the S., where it is traversed by the Chiltem Hills ; soil a fertile loam in
the N., elsewhere gravelly ; four-fifths of the county under cultivation ;
stock of sheep large; dairy produce excellent; minerals unimportant;
manufactures — ^lace, gloves, and blaiJcets. Oxford, on the Cherwell, with
a celebrated university consisting of nineteen colleges and five halls, prin-
cipally renowned for classical learning ; annual revenue, £457,000. The
Bodleian library contains 220,000 printed, and 20,000 MS. volumes.
Oxford formed the headquarters of Charles I., and the scene of the mar-
tyrdom of Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer. Banbury, noted for its cheese,
and for cakes, which bear its name. Woodstock, celebrated for its gloves ;
gives name to one of Scott's novels : near it Blenheim, the magnificent
seat of the Duke of Marlborough.
Bucks, in the basins of the Great Ouse and Thames. Oolite in the
N., greensand and chalk in the S. ; surface undulating in the N., occu-
pied by the Chiltem Hills in the S.,* and in the centre by the rich vale
of Aylesbury, one of the most fertile in the kingdom; well wooded;
yields large quantities of butter and cheese, with sheep and poultry— the
sheep being noted for the weight and fineness of their fleeces ; minerals
of little importance, but manufactures considerable, consisting of paper,
straw-plait, and thread-lace. Buckingham, on the Great Ouse, which
nearly surrounds it, has manufactories of paper and bobbin-lace ; near it
is Stowe, the splendid residence of the Duke of Buckingham. Eton, the
seat of the most famous school in England, founded by Henry VL in
1440. Great Marlow, silk, lace, and paper. Aylesbury, in the centre
of the county, has a better right than Buckingliam to be regarded as the
county town.
Bedford, in the basin of the Great Ouse. Oolite in the N., greensand
and chalk in the S. ; surface level, except around the Chiltem Hills in
the S. ; soil vaiious, from the stiffest clay to the lightest sand ; chiefly
under tillage, but agriculture not in an advanced state ; culinary vege-
tables extensively cultivated in the sandy and chalky districts for tne
London and Cambridge markets ; onions and cucumbers of the best
quality are extensively raised ; minerals unimportant ; and the manu-
factures chiefly consist of straw-plait for hats, reckoned but little inferior
to that brought from Tuscany, and of pillow-lace. Bedford, on the Great
Ouse, noted for its straw-plaiting ; near it Elstow, the birthplace of John
Bunyan ; and Cardington, where John Howard resided. Luton, Kggles-
wade, Leighton-Buzzard, and Dunstable, all extensively engaged in the
straw-plait and straw-hat manufacture.
«
The office of Steward of the Chiltem Hundreds, though now a sinecure, Is
still retained, to enable members of the House of Commons to vacate their seats
bv accepting it, as it is unconstitutional for members to demit their oflEloe more
directly.
EKClLANll AND WALES.
Herts, in tba baaina of tlia Tlinmea and Great Ouse. Keai-ly all ci
caoua, but tertiaij in the S. ; soil Tariona, often jntenniied with t
■nd of niecage fertility ; principal cropa — wheat, bailey, turnips, itpple
»nd cherry orcharda; minerab --'*"" imTirtv^-inro . r^ny^^r-ai n^amita^^iT^b —
paper and straw-plait; much „ _..._..,
DO the Lea; near it Haileybury College, where, till 18SS, young men
were trained for the servii:e oC the East India Company. Ware, at the
head-aprings of the Sew-River, which suppliea the north of London with
water. St Albaoa, an ancient town, was tlie scene of two battles between
the riTal houaea of York and Lancaster in UbB and 1461; the church eon-
taina the remains of the celebrated Lord Bacon.
Mtodlbbes, in the Thames baain. Wholly tertiary, beine the lower
eocene or London clay, which consiats of atenaoiona brown or bluiah-grey
clay replete with fossils, especially at UiKbgate HUl, near London ; sur-
face almoat pErfectiy IbybI, eiceut the Blight eminences of Hampetead,
Highgate, and Harrow-on-tbe-Hill ; soil various ; agriculture in a back-
ward state, but improving ; grass-farms, tor the supply of London with
hay anil milk, gntatly exceed in extent the arable portion ; market-
gardena extenaive, and a lat^ portion oiicupied by villas, commons, and
plBasura-grounda ; minerals of no importance, except clav for brick-
making. London, on the Thamea, the capital of England, and the me-
■tropoba of ^e British empire, is probably the largest, and certainly the
^— Ithiast andmoat commercial city in the world. Population (in 1871),
■2,000 ; occupying a surface of 122 a^. m. This immenae population
nearly equal to that of the entire kingdom of Scotland, and exceeds
B ^gr^ate population of the 15 next largeat towna in England. The
[wpiilation doublea itself In about 40 years. There are 900 churches and
cbapala, 250 public and ISOO private Hchools, 150 hospitals, 166 alms-
lunuea, 2S0 other inatitntiona of a aunilar chuacter, £50 public offices, Ji
ptiMni, S2 theatres, S4 markets, 100,000 eatablishments of trade and in-
dustry, besides an immense number of public.bonaea, hotela, eating-
house*, and beer-ahopa. The foreiini eiporta in ISfiO amnuTitiid tn
£30,837,000, and f- = '- — "="«"n/inn
Inl8
_.,._., isburdan. There are sii bridges across theTliaL__ _.,
London, Southwark, Waterloo, Westininaler, Blackfriara, and Vauihall
bridges ; three railway bri^a, and two tunnels under the bed of the river
— one two miles below London Bridge, and the other (ope oed in 1870) at the
Tower, The most conapieuoua pHhlio buildinga are St Paul's Cathedral
(a noble structure of Grecian architecture, 610 feet long, 2S0 broad, with a
dome 370 feet high) ; the Mansion House ; the Bonk ; Koyal Exchange ;
General Poat-OfGce; India, Custom, and South-Sea Houaes; Mint; Christ'a
and Bartholomew's Hoapltala ; Westminster Abbey ; Bouses of Parlia-
ment; British Museum; Dnivereity College and Hoapitol; Somerset
Hcnue; St James's and Buckingham Palaces. Among its principal
scientific aaaouiationa are the ttoy^ Society, Royal Antiquarian, Linnean,
BmloDltural, Medical and CbirnrBical, Qeological, Gec^raphical, Aatro-
nomieal, Asiatic, Zoological, Ethnoloeical, and Statiatical Societies.
There are IS daily newapapers, and 130 others, with 500 other perio-
dicab. Breweries and distilleries are on an immenae scale ; but Sbuth-
wuk and Lambeth are the great workshops, with large iron-works,
tauieriei, breweries, glass-works, patent shot and steam-engine manufac-
toiiN. Silk-weaving is confinea to Spitatfialds ; watcb-making chiefly
to Oleriieiiwell; shipbuilding to Wapping, Kotherhithe, Depltord, ond
Blaekwalli cutlery of the finest quality is produced in many parts. In
Hw»raal'
132 POUTICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Dniidical times Londinioxn was first the capital of the Coutil, and after-
wards of the Trinobantes. It was called Ang^ta in Roman times, and
was the central point from which all the Roman roads in Britain diverged.
After the departure of the Romans, it was the capital of the East Saxons
till A.D. 871, when it became the capital of England under Alfred the
Great. It obtained its first royal charter from William the Conqueror in
the eleventh century ; in 1665 the great plague cut off 100,000 of the in*
habitants, and one year afterwards it was nearly all destroyed by fire.
The other towns in Middlesex are of little importance. FaUumi is the
site of the palace of the Bishop of London. Brentfiord, the nominal
capital of the county Middlesex. Chelsea, 4^ miles from St Paul's, noted
for its hospital for superannuated soldiers.
The Twelve Welsh Counties.
Flint, a maritime county in the N.E., bounded by the Dee and Clwyd.
Chiefly carboniferous, with a patch of new red in the N.W. Surface
level in the N., and elsewhere diversified by a range of hills running from
S. to N. Soil fertile in the low grounds, and but only partially under
tillage. Its lead-mines are the most valuable in the empire, and those
of copper and coal of great importance. Manufactures, cotton and some
flannel. Mold, on the Allan, a small town, with coal and iead mines.
Holywell, with rich copper and lead mines ; the well, which gives the
town its name, is the most copious spring in Britain, giving out twenty-
one tons of water per minute. Flint exports coal and lead, and imports
timber.
Denbiqh, a maritime county, between the Clwyd and the Conway.
Silurian for the most part, but carboniferous and new red on the east
border ; surface rugged and mountainous ; soil fertile in the valleys, but
in the hilly districts consisting of peat covered by heath, and affording
pasture to great numbers of sheep, goats, and black cattle. Principiu
minerals — coal, lead, iron, flint, and slates; manufactures — stockings, flan-
nels, coarse woollen cloth, gloves, and shoes. Denbigh, on tiie Clwyd,
with manufactories of tanning, shoemaking, and woollen plaids. Wrex-
ham ; paper-mills, flannel manufactories, coal and lead mines. Llangol-
len, with a noble aqueduct across the Dee for the EUesmere Canal ; it nas
fifteen arches, and is 126 feet high ; a castle of great antiquity. Aber-
gele, a resort for sea-bathing.
Caernarvon, a maritime county, between the Conway and the Irish
Sea. Silurian ; surface the most mountainous in South Britain, being
traversed by the Snowdon range, 3590 feet high ; but many tracts of low
and fertile land, affording excellent pasturage. The chief branch of rural
industry is dairy produce and the rearing of cattle and sheep. Its slate-
quarries are the most valuable in Britain ; other minerals are copper and
lead. Caernarvon, on the Menai Strait, exports slate and copper ore ;
has an ancient castle erected by Edward I. to secure his conquest of
Wales. Bangor, also on the Menai Strait, with two stupendous viaducts,
each of which is a triumph of engineering skill. One of these is a huge
suspension-bridge, 660 feet long, with the roadway 100 feet above high-
water mark, erected by Telford ; the other, the Britannia Tubular Bridge,
Stevenson's greatest achievement, forming apart of the Chester and
Holyhead Railway, consisting of two lines of iron tubes, each 1513 feet
long, supported on three towers, and 100 feet above the sea-leveL
Llanrwst contains the tomb of Llewellyn, the last prince of Wales belong-
ing to the Celtic race.
133
Anqleska, an inBularconnty in the K.W. CI liefly Silurian, but Da-
i catboDiferous in the teiitre, aurface comparatively Hat; eli-
'e to tha Browth , • ■' ' ......
ea inaignincant ; nr
sUvor ores, coal, marble, and granite. Many!
DiBili, a Saa iowa on the Uenai Strait, much frequented as a. bathing;-
pUce. Amlwch exports copjier obtained from the Parysand Mona mines.
Holyhead, connected with iungatoD and Dabhn hy a eubmarine telegraph
70 miles long.
MebioNETH, b Diaritirae county between Caernarvon and the Dovey.
Wholly Silnrian ; surface mountalnons, well wooded, with fine valea and
oisDy small lakes ; soil poor, and only fitted for pastn re-lands ; Welsh
pdniea, oalled "Merlins," are reared; minerals, slatoa and lime, with
aome lead and copper ; maniifacturea, ooarse llEmiiels ; considemble ehip-
ping. Dolgelly, on the Gwynion, near its junction with the Maw ; it
came into possession of the famous Owea Glendoncr, during hia rebellion
in 1400. Bala, on the lake of same name, the largest in North Wales,
copper, lead, and
MoHiaoMEai, an inland county in the haaiu of the Severn. Wliolly
Silurian; aarfaoe monntainoM and well wooded, a amall portion under
tillage, the rest occupied with sheep-walks ; the sheep are celebrated for
their mntton and wool. Here also the famous " Merlins," a iinre breed
of Welsh ponies, are reared. The principal mineral is state, and the chief
article of manufacture is flannel. Montgomery, on tbe Severn, the scene
of the last atmggiB between tha Welsh and the English in 1291. Wellb-
p«ol, considered the capital of North Wales, has tanneries and wool-
mills. Vewtown, with manufactures of Qannela. Llanidloes, where
Uewellyn was defeated by Edward L
C&BDiBAN, a maritime coauty between the Dovey and Teify. Strata
Silurian ; aniface level on the coast, where the ground is highly fertile ;
monntaiaous in the interior ; scarcely ouB-third under cultivation ; prin-
cipal industry, rearing cattle ; minerals— slates, silver, copper, and. lead ;
manafactures, gloves and flannels. Cardigan, on the Teify, exports
elatea, Dalj, and butter. Aberystvrith, a gay bathing-place; large export
trade to Liverpool.
Pbmbboee, a;peninsular county in the S. W. Silurian In the N. , Devon-
ian and carboniferous in the S. ; mountainous in the Silurian tract, but
tame elsewhere ; coast bold and deeply indented ; climate mild and very
rainy; soil everywhera fertile, but chiefly used as pasture; minerals—
antnTBCite, coal, lead, lime, slate, and marl; manufactures unimportant,
bnt (ishenea valuable. PembrDU, on Milford Haven, with a Govern-
luent dockyard, and a castle stormed by Oliver Cromwell. Haverfaid>
WMt (Haifurdwcst), ou the Cleddy, ha-i a great local trade. leiiby, on
the BOBth coast, a favourite watering-place; commodious and well-
■beltered. hart)our.
Cabruastbeh, the largest county in Wales, lying chiefly In tha basin
of theToway. SilnrianiuN., Devonian and carbonil'orous in the S.; sur-
face hilly, with numerous fertile valleys, and well wooded ; the uplands
aSbrd pasture to herds of small cattle ; minerals — iron, lead, coal, and
lime; manufactures, tinned iron-plates and other articles. Caerniu-
then, on the Towey, one of the most flourishing towns in Wales ; has a
Presbyterian college, docks, and large export trade in lead, elates, bark,
com, and butter. Llkndello has rich coal and irnu mines, stanneries, and
mannfactnrea of flannel. Llanel!y,with several docks and copper- works,
and a lai^e export trade in coal.
134 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Glamorgan, the most important county in the principality, situated
on the British Channel, between the rivers Burry and Rumney. Nearly
all carboniferous ; surface mountainous in the N., level elsewhere ; sou
highly fertile ; minerals— inexhaustible quantities of coal and iron, both
of which are wrought on an immense scale. The coal-field is the largest,
and the iron-mines the most important, in the empire. Cardiff, at the
confluence of the Taflf and Severn, is rapidly becoming one of the first
ports in the empire ; splendid docks, with 45 acres water-area, give great
facilities for shipments. Swansea is fast rising in importance: the
copper ore of Anglesea, Cornwall, and Ireland is smelted and refined
here. ITeath, with iron and copper foundries and coal-mines. Herthvr-
Tydvil, the largest town in Wales ; though recently a small village, it nas
now a population of 50,000. This prosperity is owing to its position near
the centre of the great coal-field of South Wales ; numerous smelting^
furnaces, iron-foundries, and coal and iron mines.
Brecknock, an inland county in the basin of the Severn. Silurian in
N. andW., all the rest Devonian; surface mountainous — the Beaooi^
which is the loftiest mountain in South Wales, rises to a height of 2862
feet ; soil various, and only about a half cultivated, producing oats,
barley, wheat; the remainder in pasture, yielding wool, butter, and
cheese; minerals— copper, lead, iron, coal, and limestone, most of which
are extensively wrought; manufactures, worsted hosiery and coarse
woollen cloth. Brecon, on the Usk, has extensive markets and a con-
siderable general trade : it is of high antiquity, and was the birthplace
of Mrs Henry Siddons in 1755.
Radnor, an inland county in the basin of the Severn. Wholly SUur-
ian; surface mountainous, except in the S.E. ; staple products, sneep of
a small hardy breed, and cattle. Much of the surface is covered with
bog and moorland, the ancient forests of Radnor having long since dis-
appeared. New Radnor, once a fortified town, is now a mere village.
Capes.— Flamborough Head and Spurn Head, E. of Yorkshire ; Gib-
raltar Point, E. of Lincoln ; Lowestoft Ness, in Suflfolk, the most eastern
point in Great Britain ; the Naze in Essex ; N. Foreland, S. Foreland,
and Dungeness, in Kent ; Beachy Head and Selsea Bill in Sussex; Dun-
nore Head and the Needles in Isle of Wight ; St Alban's Head and
Portland Point in Dorset; Start Point in Devon; Lizard Point in
Cornwall, the southernmost point of Great Britain ; Land's End, the
most westerly point of England ; Hartland Point in N. of Devon ;
Worms Head in W. of Glamorgan ; St Goven*s Head and St David's
Head in Pembroke ; Brach-y-Pwll, the most western point of North
Wales ; Holyhead in Anglesea ; St Bees Head in Cumberland.
Islands. — Holy I. or Lindisfame, Feme Is., and Coquet L, on the
E. of Northumberland; Sheppey and Thanet in estuary of the
Thames ; Isle of Wight, S. of Hants ; the Channel or Norman Ides
—viz., Jersey, Guernsey, Aldemey, and Sark — on the N.W. coast of
France, capital, St ffelier, the seat of the local Parliament, and the
most southern town in the British Isles, pop. 30,000 ; Scilly Isles,
140 in number, off Land's End ; Lundy Island, at the entrance of
Bristol Channel ; Stockham, Skomer, and Ramsey, W. of Pembroke ;
Bardsey, off Brach-y-Pwll Head ; Anglesea and Holyhead, a county
in N.W, of Wales; Isle of Man, a large and populous island in the
Irish Sea, containing Douglas, Castleton, Ramsay, and Peel,
I
ENOLAKD AND WALES, 135
Bays Had StraJta-^Hnmber Mouth, bet, York and Lincoln ; tlia
Wash, bet. Lincobi and Norfolk ; Tarmonth Bonds, E. of Norfolk ;
eatusiy of the Tbames, bet Essex and Kent; the Downs, bet. Keut
Hid the Goodwin Sanda; Strait of Dover, het. Dover and Calais,
SI milea broad ; Portsmouth Harbour, Spithead, Southampton
Water, and the Solent, S. of Hants ; Pool Bay and Weymouth Bay,
B.of Doraet; TorBay, Start Bay, and Plymouth Soand, S. ofDsvon;
St Aurtell Bay, Falmouth Harhour, and Mount's Bay, S, of CornwHll ;
Bt Ires Bay, W. oE ConiwsU ; Bidofuiyl Bay, N, of Devon ; Bristol
Channel, bet. Somerset and Wales; Swansea, Bay and Caerniiirthea
Bar, S. of Waliia ; Milford Haven, St Brida'a Bay, Cardigan Bay,
and Caernarvon Bay, W. of Wales; Wenai Strait bet Caernarvon
and Anglesea; StQeorgo's Channel, bet Wales and Ireland, Wmilaa
broad ; estuaries of the Dee and Mersey, on either side of Cheshire ;
Lancaster Bay and Moreeambo Bay, in the N.W, of Lancashire ;
Solwaj Firth, bet. Cumberland and Scotland.
Mountain Syatem. — England is far from being a monntainons
country. Strictly apeaking, there is only one mountain-range of
moderate elevation in the ii^ole country. TMa range, commencing
with the monntoina on the Scottish border, pursues a southerly course
throogh Derbyshire ta Glouceatershire, and then deflects westward
till it temiinHtfis at Land's End in Cornwall, The position of this
lengthenedand nearly con tinnooa chain ia a fine example of the well-
known law that mountain-ran gee follow the direction of the gi'eatest
length of land in whiT;h they are situated. This range is ahont 500
miles long, has few interruptions, and forms the main water-parting
of England. Here nearly all the large rivers have tlicir origin ; and
bj this range, and the lateral branches which proceed frain it on both
Bides, the direction of the rivers and the extent of the river^busins are
Uatermined. Aa it lies much nearer to the weatern than to the east-
ern side, the great majority of the rivets have an easterly direction.
However, as there is a considerable gap atout the middle of the range,
and as two important rivets (the Trent and the Upijer Avon) intersect
it in opposite di^e(^tions in that depression, it is more convenient to
consider the two portions as separate and independent ranges. Then
tile mouBtains of Wales will rank as a third range ; and the lateral
T&ngea that branch oS in an easterly direction, the fourth and last.
1. The Forthem EtmEe, extending from the extreme N. of England
to the Peak ot Derhy in the centre of the kingdom, embracoa three differ-
ent chains — viz., the Cheviot Uills, the Pennine Chain, and the Cnmbriao
Mountains, The CAsoiof i/i'ti eitend about 35 m" '
"nabet. thel ..._
id the Tyno
t, Cheviot Peak, 2888 feet. The J'tan-ins
a Cheviots, extending from their western
.0 the Peak of Derby, 270 milea | and forming the great watcr-
>t the North of England : it sends to the North Sea the Tyiie,
_, -eea, Yorkshire Ouse, and the left affluents of the Trent (Dove,
rwent. Idle, and Tarn); and to the Irish Sea, the Edeo, Lune, Kibble,
id Mwsey. Piincipal summiU, Cross Fell (2901), Bow Fell (2911), In-
136 FOLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
gleborough (2361). The Cumbrian Mountains, in Comberland, thou^li
an ofbhoot from the principal chain, contain the loftiest mountainB in
England proper. They are separated from the Pennine Chun by the
Eden flowing northward, and by the Lune flowing southward— Bending
to the Irish Sea the Ehen, £sk, and Dudden^ the Leven, Ken, and Lime,
and containing the celebrated lakes which are the favourite resort of the
English tourist. Principal eminences— Scawfell, 3229, the highest moun-
tain in England ; Helvellyn, 3056 ; Skiddaw, 3022.
2. The Devonian Bangs extends from the S.E. of Worcestershire,
through Gloucester, Somerset, Devon, and Cornwall, and terminates at
the Land's End in the extreme S.W. of the kingdom. It forms the prin-
cipal water-parting of the south of England, separating the great basin
of the Severn, with its continuation the Bristol Channel, from the rivers
that flow to the E. and S. — viz., the right-hand affluents of the Trent,
those flowing into the Wash, the Thames with its tributaries, and those
which find their way to the English Channel, Its differentparts receive
particular names. Thus : The Bredon Hills, in the S.E. of Worcester, 900
leet ; the Cotswold HillSf in Gloucester, 1134 feet ; the Mendip Bills, in
the N.E. of Somerset, 1000 feet; the Quantock Hills, in the N. of Somerset,
1428 feet ; Exmoor and Dartmoor, in Devon, where the range attains its
maximum elevation in Caws and Beacon, 1792 feet ; the Cornish Moun-
tains, in Cornwall, where Brown Willy rises to a height of 1364 feet.
3. The Cambrian Bange, of very irregular form, occupies the greater
part of the principality of Wales. Properly speaking, it forms an off-
shoot from the Pennine range, and the contiDuity of the water-parting
bet. the two chains can be easily traced. It consists of two parallel
ranges, one along the north coast of Wales, the other along the south,
with a connecting-bar between their centres, running N. and S. — the
whole forming a figure like an inverted capital I. The northern range
contains the highest mountain in South Britain — viz., Snowdon in Caer-
narvon, 3590 feet, the culminating-point of England and Wales. The
central chain, at right angles to it, contains Cader Idris, 2950, Plynlim-
mon, 2463, in Merioneth ; and the sovihern chain has Brecknock Beacon, in
Brecknockshire, 2862 feet, and the Malvern Hills, in Herefordshire, 1396
feet high. These last closely approach the Cotswold Hills in the Devo-
nian range, on the opposite side of the Severn, a river which rises in Plyn-
limmon, and derives its head- waters and right-hand tributaries from the
Cambrian range, which is therefore the connecting-link between the Pen-
nine and Devonian ranges. In general this range forms the water-parting
between the Severn and Bristol Channel on the one side, and the Irish Sea on
the other. The Dee, Clwyd, and Conway flow to the N., the Dovey, Yst-
with, and Teify to the W. , all into the Irish Sea; the Towey, Taw v, and Taff,
into the Bristol Channel ; the Rumney. Usk, and Wye, into the Severn.
4. The Lateral or Secondary Brancnes are of no great elevation ; but
as they play an important part in the direction of the rivers, and deter-
mine the dimensions of the river-basins, they require special attention.
Nearly all of them proceed in an easterly direction from the Devonian
range. The first branches off from the Cotswold Hills in a north-eastern
direction, separating Warwick and Leicester from Oxford, Northampton,
and Rutland: it terminates in the N.W. of Lincoln, and divides the
basin of the Humber and Trent from that of the Wash. The second
diverges from the Devonian range at Salisbury Plain, in Wiltshire, and
pursues a north-eastern course till it arrives at the N. coast of Norfolk :
it bears different names in different parts, as the ChiUem Hills in Oxford
and Bucks, the Gogmagog Hills in Cambridgeshire, and forms the water-
I
ENOLAND AND WALES. 137
parting between tlie basins of ilie Wash ajid tlie Thames. Tlie thii-d
coDsiata of a double range of cbalk-MIls, called the JVer^and South
Dmmu, Batting out from Bababury Plain, and terminating, the one at
Polliestone, and the other at Beachy Head. They enclose the distrint
called "The Weald," and divide lie Thames basin from the Ei^lish
Ohuinel.
RlTer-BsilnB. — There is a necessary connection between the monn-
tsin-chains. as above enumerated, and the more or less extended
valleys or river-basins lying between them. As the principal moun-
tain-rango runs Stom N. to S., and is situated much cearer to the W.
than to the E. coast, it follows that all the larger rivers have an east-
erly ilireotiot). The Severn, even, which is the only exception to thia
rule, pursues an easterlj direction For a ^ent part of its course ; and
wera it not for the obstacle interposed by the Cotawold Hills, which
deflect it westward, it would find its way to the Thames, and empty
itself into the German Ocean.
Of the 100 river-basins of England and Wales, only 20 have any con-
siderable magnitude. Thew occupy three-fanrtha of the entire surface,
and contain 41 out of the 63 capitals. Only four of these basins are very
Bitensivo— viz., the Humber, the Wash, tba Thames, and the Severn,
Thdr Dombined area is reckoned at 30,000 eq. m., or more than half the
entire surface, and they contain S8 capitals of counties. The first three
dope towards the North Sea, and the fourth towards the Atlantic,
or these four liasins, that of the Hnmher and Trent is the largest, being
one-sixth of tiie entire Idnedom (area, 9550 sq. m.) It fomis a qnadn.
lateral figure, the longest side of which extends from the W. of Warwick.
shira, a little 3. of the lawn of Birmingham, to the N. frontiers of York-
shire ; on the W. side, opposite Morecam.be Bay, it approaches within
S2 miles of the coast. It consists of three parts— viz., the basin of tiie
Humber proper, H78 8q. m.; of the Trent, 4082 sq. m.; and of the York-
ehire Ou.se, 429n sq. m. It is bounded on the N. by the basin of the Tees,
on the W. by those of the Bibble and Mersey, on the 8.W. by that of the
Bevem.and on the S.E, by the basin of the Wash. The Buin of the
Vaeh is of an irregDlnr form, consists of the subordinate basins of the
Great Dose, Nen, Welland, and Witham, and is bounded on the N. and
N.W. by the Humber basin, on the W. by the Thames and Severn basins,
on the 8. and S. E. by the Thames and Yare basins : area, SBSO sq. m.
The Thames Baaia is bouuded on the N. by those of the Wash and Black-
water; on the W. by the Severn basin, from which it is separated by the
Cotswold Bills : and on the B, by the slope which Inclines towards the
English Channel: area 6180 sq. m. The Severn Basin commences at
Plynlimmon, about 13 miles from the W . coast ; is bounded on the N.
by the basins of the Dee and Mersey | on the E. by those of the Humber
and Thames : on the W. by the small ttreama that enter Cardigan Bay ;
and on the 8.W. by those that flow into the Bristol Channel. As this
Channel, however, Is in reality only the estuary of this river, the real
tDuthem bonndary is the Devonian range: area, 8530 sq. m.
Table of Rivera and Tawii*.— The followinf; table, the result of
niDch labour and research, presents in one connected view all the
, rivers and towns of England and Wales possessing the least degree
L dI impori^ance.
No fewer than 100 main rivers and 200 tributiry streams are ennmeratod
138
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
in the left-hand column ; while in the other will be found 800 towns^ amount-
ine to or exceeding 1000 inhabitants, including 350 large towns of 5000
inhabitants and upwards. The rivers are given in the order in which their
mouths would occur to one sailing round the coast from the Solway Firth
to the Tweed ; and the towns and tributary rivers in the order in which
he would observe them in his passage up the river. Main rivers, or those
entering the sea, are placed to the extreme left, as the Sark, Eden, and
"Wampool ; tributaries, or rivers of the second rank, one place further to
the right, as the Caldew, Irthing, and Eamont ; sub-affluents, or affluents
of tributaries, two places to the right, as the Chor, Medlock, and Irk.
The letter I denotes that the affluent after which it stands enters the
main river on the left; those without any affix enter on the right side.
Capitals of counties are distinguished by small capitals ; towns of 5000
inhabitants and upwards, by Roman letters ; and those between 1000 and
5000 by Italics, B. denotes bay ; Co., coast ; Hr., harlxmr; and Sd., sound.
Basins inclined to t?ie Irish Sea.
Rivers. Tovms.
Sark, Gretna Green, on the
boundary.
Esk, Longtown, Langholm.
Liddel, L... New Ca^tleton,
Eden, Carlisle, Appleby,
Eirkby-Stephen.
Caldew, I . . Carlisle.
Irthing, Brampton.
Eamont, I . . PenritiL
Wampool, Wigton.
Poebeck, Whitehaven.
Ellen, Maryport.
Derwent Workington, Cocker-
mouth, Kesioick.
Ehen, Egremxynt.
Horecambe Ulverstone, DaUon, n..
Bay, Cartmell, n.
Leven and L.Hawkshead, n.
Windermere,
Ken or Kent, Kendal.
Lune, Lancaster, Kirkby-
Lonsdale, Sedbergh.
Dent, 2 ....Dent.
Wyre, Fleetwood.
Ribble, Kirkham, Preston, Clith-
eroe. Settle.
Douglas, i..Wigan, Leigh.
Chor Chorley.
Darwen, I ..Blackburn, n., Over-Dar-
wen, n., Acerington, n.
W. Calder, I Burnley, Colne, Padi-
bam, n.
Alt, Ormskirk, Prescot.
Mersey and Liverpool, Birkenhead,
Tame, Much Wolton, n. , Run-
corn, Warrington, NeiD-
ton-in-MakerHeldf n.,
Stockport, Hyde, Ash-
ton-under-Lyne, Staley
Bridge.
Weaver, i ..Frodsham, Crewe, n.,
Nantwich.
Dane, ....Middlewich, Congleton.
Rivers. Towns.
Sankey, . . . .Warrington, Newton, n.,
St Helens.
Bollin, I,... Altringham, BoUington,
n., Macclesfield.
Irwell Manchester, Salford,
Bury, Haslingden, Hey-
wood, XL , Droylsden, n.
MedIock,{ Oldham.
Irk, I .... Middloton.
Crole, .... Bolton, Tamwarth, n.,
Hindley, n.
Roche, I . . Rochdale, Todmorden, n.,
Bacup, n.
Gk)yt, I . . . .SiockpoTt.
Etherow, ..GIossop, n.
Dee, Holywell, Flint, Hawar-
den, n., Neston, Ches-
ter, Wrexham, n., Mai-
pas, XL, Llangollen,
Corwen, Bala.
Allen, 2 ....Mold.
Clwyd, Rhyl, Rhyddlan, St
Asaph, Denbigh,
Ruthin.
N. Co. Den- Abergele.
high,
Conway, .... Conway, Llanrwst.
Menai Straits, Beaumaris, Bangor,
Cabrnarvov.
Co. of Anglesea Amlwch, Holyhead.
Co. o( C&emax-Nevin, Pwllheli, Llan-
von, dudno.
Maw, Barmouth, Dolobllt, n.
Gwynion, I Dolgelly.
Dovey, Machynlleth
Ystwith, .... Aberystwith.
Teify, Cardigan, Lampeter,
Tregaron.
Co. Pembroke, N e wport, Fishguard,
Tenby.
MilfordHaven,Milford, Pembroke. Hav-
erfordwest, Narberth,
^^"
Eatini incifntd Co 1A« BriXol Cli
27HHI.
Ritm.
K.,;::::
.GLoncEbTEB, NeveDL
. CAEKiuBTBBH.Llandsilo,
CUslt I
.Cheltenham.
Uprerjvo
p.Teitltesbiirv, Fcnhnrt,
Sidwll]/, LlaneUy.
EvHhain, SfmO'ord
B.jr.
W.EWitK. Hogby.
Tiwy,
:N«sr-
■*a!S
.Alealer, Reddltch.
««iii. ..;.
HenlBj-in-Arden.
)e^i^'.'.'.'.
So™'!'
'.a^^l^.'n.'°^d,mrSi
.CARDinr, CAepXow. n.,
BtHtiey. a., Ladnaji,
BwKt,..
Ttma.^..
, WoacesTEB, n., Teabvru,
hadlowTSnighhrn.
iSiSTifss
8»lw»rp. i
aionr, 1..
.Btoat^ Kid^in-
Biidgenorth. Braaeli;/,
Uacfi.Wenlock. n.. Hk-
alat, Stourbridge, Ho/t-
tavan. DndW. n.
dBl«y,n.aH>,K™™y,
SnieBtox
Wel»h,KH.l, MontoOM-
n.
ERY, LtanldlOEB.
WBff, I ..
A«, ....
.iiciridiW, WellB.
Dawlfy, '
T.H .,-
. CiRnTrr.Merthyt-TSdvU.
Tb™, ....
■ Wellicglon, n., Jtfortel-
Kly,....
Cik. ....
.Newport, JfterjoDeniiy,
RodeD.
.ft-eB^ ITAi-MAitrc*. n..
£U«™!«,n.
Bbwy,
.Tredi^.'iL
M«!^.^
.Jieaiport.
Af on
Terry, (..
.Oawestry.
Llwyt
.LiaVaii".
C£iB,I
.LtoiWHfn.
on, 1
flrUB,
Jfofiii, CattUcart'f,
hun. MslniesLury.
Bnmf™.
Lr.FrOBi
e,Bri>lo1, ChippJiB-Sod-
Parrot, ....
. Brldgewater, £oiisi)ort,
5. Pethtrten, Crca-
Pmme,!
ttme, Beatai-ntler.
Ware. I
'JtMbiny. "■ ""
Camj.....
.Snmerbm.
Muden,
Cofn*.
Tons,! ..
.Tjdbtos, Hiletrlm, n..
TTje. ...:
. ChcpHoa, Cid^ord. Mds-
ITiUinaEon.
.Langpai. leovU, Shet-
""r^ flo»t' ^«W,"
boiDB.
Rtaysder.
me. I....
.iImiT«(«-,CTard.
I^ffi. I
.Leoniinster, Freeteign,
a el.
Bartlind-
ra^sSl"""'"' "^
Taw
. Bamalaple, CItumleigh.
Mol
B<ni»[
Tortldgo, ..
.BidefoRi. TtrringHin.
B«rlteHi]P
StrattoiC
£B*efey, irot(orM.n<fer-
Cimtl,""::
.Fai>tov>. BoMiH.
£(^. '
W. Co. Com
- Cainbome, n., Bt Agnea,
P.^™'l
.Slmqci.
BtIy»,S(Jt«t
.jrwcAin-Sampton.
Aosi'iu iitrtincd to t
< £nS(«fc C»o«™[.
ltoimf»B>y
.PenHiBce,Jfa««(m,£fel.
((OTW, n.
FlyuDuth Sd
.Pl^^noQtb, Devnnport, St
SU»<rntl>H
Falnioulh.J'enrini.Traro,
.StGermaai, CaUi-nglon.
fUdrnth. D.
Tnvj,
lOo,Ooinw«Jl«^i«teil.
Taiiar
'-Saliaih, Launesttan.
hwej
iSTiSSS.
»«»,
140
POLITICAL GEOOBAPHY.
Bdsins inclined to the English Channel (continued).
Jtiven.
Dart,
Tor Bay, ,
Teign, . . .
Exe,
Crede, ,
Otter, ..
Sid
Axe,
Lyme,
Bride or Brit,. .
Wey,
Foole Harbour
and Frome,
Hampshire
Avon,
Btonr,,
Allen, I . .
Cayle, I .
Tovms.
Dartmouth, Totness, Ash-
burton.
Brixhamt Torquay.
Teignmoutb, 'Newton-
Abbot, Chudleigh,
Moreton-Sampstead.
Exmouth, Topshdmy Exe-
ter, Tiverton, Dwwr-
ton.
Crediton.
St Mary, Ottery, Honi-
ton.
Stdmouth.
Colyton, Accminster.
Lyme-Begis.
Bridport, Beaminster.
Weymouth.
Poole, Corfe Castle^ n.,
Waretaam, Dorchestee
Christchurch, Ringwood,
Fordingbridge, Salis-
bury, Ainesbury, De-
vizes.
Christchurch, Wimhomey
Blandford, Sturmin-
8ter, Shaftesbury.
Cranboume.
Stalbridge, Wineanton.
Rivers,
Toums.
Wily, Salisbury, Wilton,
Warminster.
The Solent, ...Lymington.
Southampton SouUuumpton.
water.
Aire, 2 Titehfteld.
Hamble, { . ..Bishop's Waltham.
Itchin, I.... Southampton, Winghes-
TER, Airesford.
Test, Romsey, Andover, n.,
Whitehureh.
Portsmouth H.Portsmouth, Fareham.
ChichesterHr. Havant, Chichester.
& B. Jjavant,
Sussex Co., ...Bojjrnor, Worthing,
Brighton, Eastbourne,
Hastings.
Arun, Little Uainpton, Arwi-
del.
W. Bother,. .Pdtworf A, Midhurst,
Petersfie^*
Adur, NewShoreham, Horsham
Ouse, Newhaven, Lewes, Cuek-
field, n.
Bother, Rye, BaUle, n.
Crane, { Tenlerd»n, n. , ChwnXiTOOk,
S. Co. Kent, . . Hy the, Folkestone.
E. Co. Kent,.. Dover, DeaL
Basins inclined to the North Sea.
Stour, Bamsgate, Sandynch,
Canterbury, Ashford.
N. Co. Kent,.. Margate, Heme Bay,
Whitstahle, Faversham,
Milton, YL
Thames, Sheemess, Gravesend,
Woolwich, Greenwich,
Blackwall, Deptford,
London, Fulham,
Brentford, Bichmond
Twickenham, Kingston,
Hampton, Chertsey,
Staines,Eton,WindBor,
Maidenhead, High
Wycombe, Great Mar-
low, Henley. Beading,
n., Wallingford, Abing-
don, Oxford, Bavnpton
n., Ot. Farringdon, Cir-
encester, n.
Medway,.... Sheemess, Chatham,
Strooa, Bochester,
Maidstone. Tunbridge,
Tunbridge Wells, n..
East Grinstead, n.
Darent, Dartford, Seven Oaks,
Westerham.
Pym, or Romford.
Bourne, I.
Boding, / ...Barking, Epping, n.
Lea, I Blackwall, Tottenham ,
n., Enfield, n., Wal-
tham Abbey, Ware,
Hertford, Luton.
Stort, I ...Bishop's Stortford.
B a y e n s - Deptford, Bromley.
bourne,
Wandle, .... Wandsworth, Croydon.
Brent, Bren^ord.
Hogsmill, . . .Eangston, Epsom.
Mole, Leatherhead, Dorking,
Beigate.
Wey, Guildford, Oodalming,
Famham, Alton.
Bourne, .... Chertsey, Chobham.
Colne, { Staines, Usebridge, Wat-'
ford, St Albans.
Misboume,. .ATnersham.
Chess, Chesham.
Yorlan, ,..HtAlhanB,nemel-Hemp'
stead, n., Berkham^
stead, n.
Wick, I Great Marlow, High Wy-
eowi>e.
Loddon, Henley, n., Hwst, Baa*
ingstoke, Kingselere. n.
Kennet, .... Beading, Newbury,£fuii-
gerford, Marlborough,
Lam- Newbury, Lambowm
bourne, I
ENGLAND AND WALES. 141 1
Baiiiu inclliud to thi ifortfi Sea (co
nllDued). '
K n.-Mr..
Tovni.
■ Ttaunc...
, rftame, Ayleatnry, IVinn,
(JroioloBd. Petsr-
■
n., /tiiflftws, li.
InroiiEb, Oundli. Wel-
V oi^
"■'ffi^wp'ri^sl^S*.^"
UaKburunEh, Nqrtu-
iMMOji, Damnlry.
■
Cherwell,
..OiroKD, Bantury.
Jtf(uelV,n.
.^il
.'.ciuirlbvrs.
.KBtUnng,J!p(A>«Z2.
WellMld,*.'.'*
Glynn.!
WinElrMh
tWitney-
ITppinsiam, n. Jfar-
fct^H8^iD^ou^^,
^f Bt^^tii,'
.MoldDi), ffriSoin. Cog-
Glen. ....
WitLiun
:««j;i,™.„, »^».
^H Clialinsr,.
.Chblmbforii, JJuTintow,
aieaford .
.Slci^fi^
^B
Tka^d.
Bain, .
^H CHU3,..
..ChelDiiCunl, BrentKoad,
I-ngwDrtl
IMarlut-Rasen.
BtMplng,.,.
.,Trai5yl«l, Si>il»0!/.
..ColehMtor. HBlalsid.
WitHsrn,. . .
«ft;™.„H...,
^H CnlDS,
^H Mmt ..
.Hajwirfi, Sudbnry, Long
KiCfi^. HavtfhiU.
iSnt, ""
KIngitoD, Sarton,
JVorAoiuI^oiUhCan,
V "^'
^ Bnt.t....
.BudO^
ap«.or(A, Gain.bu-
Orwell. ..
Delmi ...
.IpswioH, Btow-JUrket
.Oi:/iii4 FramliTigluim.
Zfi.fJSji^n*;
Jildi^
BljOi-
.SOttlAwcW, HoiHttwtft,
KKQ,rwt
BBltDlk Co,.
Lowestoft.
Tun.......
.yumonth, NoBWioH.
rt^St^i^S^^JeiX:
Bam. i...
.AyLlIU. '
.North W.I»li«ni.
LuM,....
.LouSl^''^''"'' ^"^°"'-
.BtcOts. Bu»ga«. Barle,-
urn, EyB,i..,lii«.
Hull.!,...
.KlBgaton or Hull, Sever-
,Ql»nrotdBrigg,Coi«or,II.
Ooolo, Eaviden, Selby,
TonK,aUi>otheOq«.-
k,Oon«r, lf«(ta.
Anoh^ln...
U.CaNotfo
[■.Lynn-Regis. DoOTlAilm-
OiueiUn
u^'6;^;
JforiBi, Ely, St /cm,
bTidge liipon, JfMA.
am. floMs.
chaUr. n.. S( Jf««,
BmreBD, Oi»tv, Si«>-
Don, ..
.Tkfrnc. Donea.ter,
si^a-vsss;
Penniilom.
BAH. Bract ley.
N.r or
Lyna-Begls,S^(i/Aflm,n.
Betchj,
n„ ChBBtertleld.
Aire,.,.
.Boadm,B.,Saaiih, Pon-
t6fmi.t,n.,Leeds.BraU-
Ut. OnsB,
.Brandon. TA^V""!.
ford. n., Binglty.
-.JfiWdtftnlf. Burj 8t Ed-
mnnd-i.
CMder
CiHacfBrd,' Wa^aflsld,
Quo,.. .
Batten, n.. DBwabniy.
■Rn»i, SbIAvu-WoI-
Hodder.HeId,n.Ha]irai,
Todmorden.
o«.t-.
""m*"""^""' '^'"''
Eye,.
.nelm^y.E.MiJS^X
Uable.a.
Wliaife,
.TaSxwttr, WttkiAy.
Tow,, ...
,Tmu>eilir.
QniaUy, n.. r«da»,
«™.
.March. JjBBiws, Wl.-
Ottel.,
boicb, ffAfCIIdeo,
ros», i. .
.Tout, SuinuiMld, n.
142
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Basins inclined to tJie
Jtivers. Towtis,
Nidd, Enaresborough, Harro-
gate.
Swale, I ,.Bedale, n., Richmond,
Reeth.
Cod- Thirek.
heck, I
"Wwke, INorthallerton.
Old Don, L.Crowle, TickhiU.
Idle, I E. Ret/ord, Mansfield.
Ryton, ;.. Worksop.
Devon Newark, Bingham.
Erwash, I . .Ilkeston, Aljreton, Kirk-
hy-in-Ashfield.
Soar, Loughboro', Leicester,
Hinckley.
Wreak, . . .Melton-Mowbray, Oak-
ham.
Derwent, Z.. Derby, Belper, if a^toct.
Wye, BakeweU^ Tideswell,
Buxton.
Dove, I Tutbury, Uttoxeter, Ash-
bourne, Hartington.
Chuinet,.. Cheadle, Leek.
^choo, I.. Ashbourne f Wirksworth.
Mease, Ashby-de-la-Zou^h.
Tame, Lichfield, n., Tamworth,
Wednesbury, n.. West
Bromwich, n., Walsall.
Anker, ...Atherstone, Nuneaton.
Blithe, .. .Coleshillf Solihull.
North Sea (continued).
Rivers. Toicns.
Rea, Birmingham.
Sow, Stafford, EcclesluJl.
Penk, Penkridge, Cannock,
BrevHtod.
Yorkshire Co., Bridlington,Scarborough.
Esk, Whitby.
Tees, Middlesboroogh, Ouis-
boroughy n., Stockton,
Barnard Castle.
Leaven, Stokesley.
Skeme, I ...Darlington.
Durham Co.,.. Hartlepool.
Wear, Sunderland, Houghton'
le-Spring, n., Durham,
Bishop- Auckland, Wol-
singhatn.
Tyne, Tynemouth, S. Shields,
N. Shields, Newcastlk,
Gateshead, Hexham,
Haltwhistle, Aldstone,
North Tyne, IBellinqham.
Allen, Allendale.
Blyth, Blyth.
Wansbeck Morpeth.
Coquet, Rothbury.
Aln, Alnwick.
Co. of North- Record, n.
umberland,
Tweed, Berwick.
Till, Wooler.
Lakes. — The English lakes are few in number, very small in di-
mensions, and mostly confined to the Cumbrian group of mountains.
Windermere, the largest of them, is 10^ miles long, and is drained
by the Leven. TJlleswater, in the same county, is the second
largest ; whilst Bala, the largest in Wales, is 4 mUes long, and is
drained by the Dee. They are, however, celebrated for their beaul^,
for being the resort of tourists, and for containing a species of fresh-
water fish called the char, peculiar to the north-west comer of Eng-
land, and considered a high luxury of diet. The other principal
lakes are BassenthwaitCi DerwerUwateT, Thirlemerc, Crummockwater,
Loweswater, Ennerdale WateVy and Wastwater, in Cumberland ;
Haweswater, Orassmere, and Rydal, in Westmoreland ; and ConiS'
tone Water, in Lancashire.
Internal ConununicatioiL — England stands unrivalled among the
nations for the number and extent of its railwaj^s, canals, navigable
rivers, and turnpike roads. In January 1871 there were 58 main
lines of railway in operation, with a vast number of branches, afford-
ing 10,773 miles open for traffic, and the total cost of construction
amounts to about £365,000,000. The whole kingdom, indeed, with
the exception of central Wales and a small portion of the S.W. of
England, is one huge network of railways. The Surrey iron railway,
between Wandsworth on the Thames and Croydon in Surrey, was
the first railway in England intended for public use, and was opened
in 1805 ; but the Stockton and Darlin^on railway, opened in 1825,
was the first to employ locomotive engines, and to excite the general
rved, blnnt, and
I
ENULiNR AND WALLS, 1-13
interest of tlio puMiu. Euglnnd is further iutcrsected in every direc-
tion by eanalB, nftviijaljlo rivers, and rivera rendered navigable by
artiGcial means, llie last mentioned are called navigations. The
oldest canai is the Sankey Brook Vfcaal in laneashire, finjahed in
17S8 i and the total length of all the canals u estiniated at about
2100 miles, besides 2000 miles of rivers rendered navigable by
artificial meana. fineland is also traversed by 2a, 000 miles of Turn-
pike Beads, and by about 100,000 mOea of cross-roads, by means nf
which, and by the numerous canals and railways, commodities of all
kinds are so easily and expeditiously conveyed to all parts of tha
kingdom, that they everywhere fetch about the same prices.
National CharactBr. — The most striking characteristics of an
Englishman are hia love of liberty, justiee, and independence, his
hiah sense of honour and fair-dealing. To think, apeak, and wiite
as ne pleasea on all subjects — so long as he keeiis within the bounds
of tmtli and charity — ^he claims as his inalienable right ; and to
maintain this liber^ he evinces indomitable courage, persi
and self-deniaL To a stranger he appears cold, I
haughty ; but his candour, probity, and verawity secure uiiii me lo-
speot of all. His humanity and philanthrapy are of a highly ]>racti'
cal character, as is evinced by the estraoiiiinary nnmber of chari-
table, benevolent, and religious institutions with which his couutry
abonnds. He is unrivalled for good taste in domestic architecture,
and his home is always a model of cleanliness, neatness, and com.
fort ; while his frugality, economy, and providence ate evinced by
his vigorous support of savings-banks, friendly societies, and insur-
ance oSiceB,
UtenLtOTfl, — There is perhaps no nation, ancient or modnm, that
excels England in the number of distinguished literary names. Tha
foUowing IB a list of some of her most eminent and gifted sons in
the Tanous departments of science and literature : Poetrt —
Chancer, Spenser, Shakespeare, Milton, Herbert, S. Butler, Waller,
Prior, Dryden, Pope, Young, Oowper, Crabbe, Bvron, Kogers, Cole-
ridge, Southey, Wordsworth, Tennyson. Histohv— Clarendon,
Gibbon, Coxe, Roacoe, Napier, Lingard, Thirlwall, Hallani, Grote,
Mac ftuJay, Freeman, Fronde, Philip Smith. Science and Fnii.osoPHY
—Bacon, Boyle, Newton, Ray, Locke, Hobbes, Cudworth, Tncker,
Malthas, Bentham, Davy, C. Hatton, Faraday, George and Robert
Stevenson, Whewel!, Sedgwick, Professor Owen. Tueulooy—
Bede, WycliSe, Hooker, Jerei^ Taylor, Chillingwortb, Bishop
Boll, Barrow, Walton, Patrick, Bishop Lovth, Owen, Howe, Bax<
ter, Bnnyan, Foole, Doddridge, Henry, Lardner, Butler, Samuel
Clarke, Paley, Scott, K. Hall, Foster, Whately, I. Taylor, Deau
Alford. MEDtciNB — Hnrvey, Jenner, Heberden, Gooch, Hall,
■Willan, Bateuian, Cooper. Tbavfls— Drake, Frobisher, Dam-
jder, j^loD, Byron, Cook, Becham, E. and J. Laniier, Parry,' Frank-
lin, Speke, and Burton. Fine Aets — Wren, Hogarth, Bevuolds,
Oian'bey, Hayman, Gainsborough, Wilson, Opie, Komney, Wright.
Notthoote, Morland, Lawrence, Hay don, Turner, Landseer, Purcell.
MwCEi.i.ANBorH — Addison, Johnson, Bentley, Sydney Smith. Dp
Foe, Ficldiiif^ Warren, Thackeray, Dickeos, Geo. and Sir U.. ^'wVluotx.
144 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
SCOTLAND.
Position and Boundaries. — Scotland forms the north part
of Great Britain ; the mainland extends from lat. 54** 2& to
SS*' 40' north, and from Ion. 1" 46^ to 6" 14' west ; thus occupy-
ing 4'* 1' of lat. and 4° 28' of Ion. It is boimded on the N. by
the Pentland Firth, on the E. by the North Sea, on the S. by
England, and on- the W. by the Atlantic.
Form, Coast-Line, and Extreme Points. — Of an oblong but ex-
tremely irregular form, with numerous deep indentations, especially
on the west. The extreme points are, the Mull of Galloway in the
S., Dun net Head in the N., Bnchanuess in the E., and the Point of
Ardnamurchan in the W. Including the islands, the most northerly
point is Unst, in lat. 60° 49' ; and the most westerly, St Elilda, in
Ion. 8° 84' west. The coast-line is so extremely irregular as to sug-
gest the idea that the country is about to separate into fragments :
length, including the main iolets of the ocean, 2500 miles, or 1 mile
of seabord for every 11 square miles of surface. This ratio is un-
paralleled in any other European country except Greece.
Area and Population. — Including the islands, the area is 80,685
sq. m., or 19,639,377 acres, being considerably more than one- third
of the area of Great Britain with the circumjacent 186 isles. Extreme
length of mainland 276 miles, with a breadth varying &om 80 to
175 miles; but from the Mull of Galloway to the extreme north of
Shetland about 450 miles, and from Peterhead to St Eilda about 250
miles. In 1871 the population was 3,360,018, being nearly 107 per-
sons for every sq. m. ; while England has 389 persons to the sq.
mile, and Ireland 166. In 1801 the population was only 1,608,420;
it has therefore fully doubled itself in the last seventy years. The
population is about equally divided between town and country, there
being 225 cities and towns with an average population of 6654.
The counties containing the largest population are, Lanark, with
765,339; Mid-Lothian, 328,000; Aberdeen, 245, 000; while Kinross
has only 7198, and Nairn 10,225. The most densely peopled coun-
ties are, Edinburgh, which has 894 persons to every sq. m., Lanark
861, and Renfrew 854; whereas Sutherland has only 13 persons
to the square mile, Inverness 21, and Argyll 23.
Political DiylsionB. — Scotland is poUtically divided into 33 conn-
ties, 13 of which are southern, 10 central, and 10 northern. The
central counties are separated from the southern by the Firths of
ForUi and Clyde and the Grand Canal connecting tiiem ; and from
the northern by the Grampian chain.
Thikteen Southern Counties.
Edlnbnrgli or Mld-LotUaiL — Edinburgh 198 n., Leith 44, Porto-
bello 5, Musselburgh 8 (F. of Forth), Dalkeith 6 (Esk).
Bdvem 1000 and 2500 inkaJbUanU, — Penicuik, Newhaven, Loanhead.
U3
„ T £. Lothian. — Hadbisotos 4 ^Tyne), Dunbar 3
(F. of Forth).
Sortli BBTviDli, Tranent, PreEtacpmia.
Benrl^. — GBSsyiAW 1 (BUckaildeT), Dnnse 3 (WMteadder).
Coldstream, Eydmoalh, EuMod, laudet
BaHmri^— JzDBintea 3 (Jed), Hawick 11 (Teviot), Kelw) S
(Tweed).
UelroBS, New CBBtletctn, Wiltnn.
Smnfiiai. — DrHTiUBS 15 (Nitb), Annan 3 (Annan).
Thorntaill, Lockerbj, Lochmahen, LaDgtiolm, MoSal
lDAnaeSirlgb.i. — Kibscudbbicht 2 (Dee), Maiwelltown4(NM).
CbsUe Douglas, Creetuwn, Gatehuoae, Dalbeattie.
mgUnm. — WigtownE (Wigtown Bay), Hewton Stewart 3 (Cree),
Stranraer 6 (L. Bjnn).
Whithorn, Glenluce, Port Patrick.
AjT.— Ats is (Att), SaltooatB S, Ardrosaan i, Largs 3 (F. of
Clyde), trvine 7, KilmarDock 34, QcJatOD 5, Now Mills 3 (Inine),
Xll wiimiiig 4, Dairy 5. KilbimieS (G-amock), Stcwartoa 3 (Annock),
GirraD 6, Hajbole 4 (airvaa), Beith 4 (Black Cart).
Muirkiri, West KUbridE, Waterside, Manchiine, Tnxra, DalmBllinetan.
CalrinB, Cumnock, Andunlecfc, Crossliill, Darvel, Eglijiton, Hurfiori,
Kihuaora, Feeaweep, Tarbolton, Btereustcm,
aBnftBW.— aKKFKEW 4, PortfllaBBOw II, Greenoci 58 (P. of
Civde), PaiHley 48, PoUockuliawB 9 (White Cart), JolinBton 8, Kil-
barchan 3 (Blank Cart), Barrhead 6 (Levern).
Gnuroct, Busbf, Linwmd, LDChwinnoch, NeilEton, EagleEhani, Tbom-
IJebank, Bridge of Weii, NitiOulL
TjMvfc — Lakahe 5, Glasgow 548, Butherglen 9, Hamilton 1 1 .
Caduke 3 s., Motherwell 7 n. (Clyde), Airdrie 17, Coatbridge, 10
(N. Calder), Wiahaw 9 (S. Oalder), Strathaveo 4 (Avon).
CaldeT.Cflidcrbank.BellBhill, BaillieBtoD, BhHttlcEton,ToUorom,BpriIlg-
■ -J; Kirkfidd Bank, ChnpeihsU. New Lanark, Roaehail, UddinptoD,
Caifin, Holrtoim, Newarthill, C
UnlttfaCDW OF v. LoOilaa. — LiNUTsaow 4, Bathgate 5 (A-ron),
Bo'neM 4 (F. of Forth).
South QueausTerr^, Whitborn, Craftbead, Ammdale, Broxlium.
PMblM.— PlEBLEB 3 (TwBod), Innerleithen 2 (Leithen).
■dldik.— Bbleibx 5 (Ettrick), GslaBhiele 10 (Gahi Water).
TbK CKIITEiL COTJHTIEB.
Fife.— CdpakS, 6t Aiidren^ C (Bden), Kirkcaldy 12, Bnrtiahuid
3 (F. of Forth), Dunfermline 15 (Lynel, Leven 3 (Leven).
Talkhmd, Anuhttirmnchty, Lochgelly, Marklnch, Oakley Prinlaws, Bt
■ananoe, Anstruther, Pittflnweem, Buckhaven. Wemyss, Kinghotn, In-
vRfcMhiDg, Dyson, Ferry-Fort-oD-Craig, Newbnr^ Covdanbeath,
"— — '-1, Leslie.
146 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Snross. — Kinross 2, Milnathort 2 (Leven).
Clackmannaxi.— Clackmannan 1 (Black Devon), Alloa 9, Tillie-
coultry 4, Dollar 2 (Devon).
Stirling.— Stirling 14 (Forth), Grangemouth 3, Falkirk 12, Den-
ny 4 (Oarron), Kilsyth 5, Alva 4 (Devon), Bridge of Allan 3 (Allan).
Bannockbum, Stenhousemuir, Carron, Donipace, Lauriston, Milngayiei
Camelon, Balfron.
Dumbarton. — Dumbarton 11, Helensburgh 6 (Obrde), Kenton 3,
Alexandria 5, Bonhill 3 (Leven), Kirkintilloch 6 (Kelvin).
Cumbernauld, Duntocher, Jamestown.
Bute. — KoTHESAY 8 (E. coast of Bute).
Lamlash and Brodick (in Arran), Millport (in Cumbrae).
Argyll — Invebary 1 (L. Fyne), Oampbelton 7 (Kilbrannan Sd.),
Dunoon 4 (Clyde).
Tarbert, Lochgilphead, Tobermory, Oban, Bowmore,. Port Ellen.
Perth.— Perth 26 (Tay), Crieff 4 (Earn), Auchterarder 3 (Ruth-
ven), Blairgowrie 5 (Ericht), Kincardine 2 (F. of Forth).
New Scone, Dunkeld, Stanley, Coupar-Angus, Aberfeldy, Errol, Aber-
nethy, Muthill, Comrie, Dunning, Methven, Alyth, Blair AthoU^ Dun-
blane, Doune, Callander, Blackford, Battray.
ForfiEur. — ^Forfar 11 (Dean), Kirriemuir 3 (Gairie), Broughty
Ferry 6, Dundee 119 (F. of Tay), Arbroath 20 (coast), Montrose 16,
Brechin 8 (S. Esk).
Carnoustie, Ferryden, Letham, Frlockheim, Southmuir.
Kincardine.— Stonehaven 3 (coast).
Luthermuir^ Laurencekirk, Bervie, Johnshaven, Banchory.
Ten Northern Counties.
Aberdeen. — Aberdeen 88 (Dee), Woodside 4, Inverury 3 (Don),
Huntly 4 (Deveron), Peterhead 9, Fraserburgh 3 (coast).
Kintore, Old Meldrum, Ellon, Strichen, Turifif, Pitsligo^ Bosehearty,
Balmoral.
Banff. —Banff 4, Macduff 3 (Deveron), CuUen 2, Buckie 4 (coast),
Keith 4 (Isla).
Portsoy, Aberchirder, DuflPtown.
Moray or Elgin. — Elgin 7 (Lossie), Forres 4, (Findhorn).
Lossiemouth, Fochabers, Eothes, Burghead, Hopeman.
Nairn.— Nairn 4 (Nairn).
Inyemess. — Inverness 14 (Ness).
Fort George, Fort William, Beauly, Grantown, Kingussie, Portree (I.
of Skye).
Ross.— Dingwall 2 (Cromarty F.), Tain 2 (Dornoch F.)
Fortrose, Invergorden, Alness, Evanton, Plockton, Maryburgh, Avoch,
Stomoway (in Lewis).
BC0TL4ND. 147
— Obomartt 1 (Cromarty F.), Ullapool 1 (Loohbroom).
— DoKNOca 1 (Domocli Flrtli).
Golspie, Helmsriale.
CalUmMi.— Wick 8 (K coaat}, Thurso 4 (PeDtUnd E.)
Lybster, Castletown.
Orkney and Shatlond.— Kikkwall 3, StramaesB 2 (Orkney), Ler-
vrick 4 (Shetland).
DeHOilptiTe IToteB. — At the last cenaos there were only three
biwas in Scotland with more than IW.OOO inhabitanta (Glasgow,
Edinburgh, and Dundee) ; two bot 100,000 and 50,000 (Aberdeen
and Greenock) ; four bet. 30,000 and 20,000 (Paisley, Leith, Perth,
and Kilmarnock), thirteen bet. 20,000 and 10,000 (Ayr, Arbroath,
Montrose, Airdrie, Dumfries, Stirling, Hamilton, Dunfermline, In-
Teruesa, KirkcaJdy, Dumbarton, Forfar, and Galashiels); and twenty-
seven bet. 10,000 and SDOO— being in all furty-nine towns of upwards
of 5000 inhabitants.
The Thihtkex Southern Counties.
Bdikburgh Ilea iu the bsainof the Forth, sud on the Boutli side of the
firth or eatoary of Ihat name.— Nearly all Coal-measorBH, but trap in the
Pentlond EUIb, and l^ner Silniian in the S.E. ; Surface hilly, having
the Moorfoot Hilla in the 8.K, tlie Peutland Hilla in tlie centre, and the
Corstorphine Hilla, including Arthur's Seat, near Edinburgh, in the N, ;
toil verf fertile, and highly eultivated in the level parts ; extensive
iiuraeries and vegetable gardena near the capitaL Mmerala highly valu-
sble. eipeeiaUy coal and iroustone, vihieh are evteusively wroueht, sjid
aandstone (at Craigleith) of a very superior quality ; one vast bed of eoal,
between Carlops and Mnssetborgh, is 15 miles long by 8 broad, and con-
tains 33 seams. Manufactures less important, but extensive paper-mills
on the Esk and Water of Leith, as also several breweries, distilleries, and
potteries. Edinburgh, near the Firtb of Forth, the capital of Scotland
since the reign of James II., la one of the most chastely bnitt cities in
Europe. It is often uaUed the Modern Athens, from the taste and ele^o
United Kingdom, with the ei
ing is carried on eitensively, auu lubi« hib bbvhihi yuanfliijr ranB»B m
the first elais, 10 nenspat^rs, and many other iieriodical norks. But
Edinburgh is chiefly celebrated for its Univcisity (founded in 1582, erected
in 1769). with 34 pitifessnrs, from ISOO to 2000 students, and a library con-
tuning 122,000 printed books and SOO MS3. This University holds a high
rank as a medical school, while in mental and raorHl science it stands un-
rivalled in Britain. Among its most illustrious professora may be named
Dugald Stewart, Thomas Brown.and Sir 'Williani Hamilton. Besides the
University of Edinburgh there is another distinguished theological semi-
nary c^ed the New College, where the miuistei-a of the Free Church of
Scotlsnd receive their theological training. Among the most remarkable
pBhliC bnildinga may be mentioned the Castl" ■---■-■ — •- —
^rpckj sod once a place of great Btrenoth,— it <. „ .. ._
■kbd, ■ garrison, and banw:ka for 2000 men; the Palace of Holj'rood,
■tended by David 1. in 112S, which forma the rei^idence of the savereign
^^nu> tlaitiog the Scottish capital, imd which, along with Beverley In ,
148 POLITICAL GEOGBAPHY.
Torksliire^ Las the privilege of sanctuary ; St Giles's Cathedral, where the
Solemn Lei^e ana Covenant was subscribed in 1643 ; Victoria Hall,
where the General Assembly of the Established Church of Scotlanu
holds its annual meetmgs ; Parliament House, where the Scottish Par*
liament met before the Union ; the Advocates' Library, the lamat and
most valuable collection of books in Scotland, containing 200,000 printefl
volumes and 1700 MSS., and entitled to a copy of every book issued in
the United Kingdom ; the Si^et Library, containing 50,000 volumes; the
Boyal Institution ; the National Gallery ; Museum of Science and Art;
the High School ; and Sir Walter Scott's Monument. Leith, two miles
N.E. of Edinburgh, of which it is the seaport, has a commodious harbour,
and considerable colonial and foreign trade. In 1869, 4134 vessels, of
980,410 tons burden, entered and cleared the i>ort ; the exports amounted
to £1,600,000, and the customs-dues to £600,000.
Haddinqton lies E. of Mid-LothiuK and in the basins of the Forth
and Tyne. — Carboniferous in the W., Devonian in centre and £.,
Silurian in the S., and trap in the N. Surface hilly in the S., where
are the Lammermoor Hills, level in the centre and N. ; soil mostly a
clayey loam, and highly fertile. Coal is worked in the carboniferous
district, and limestone abounds in many places. The chief manufactures
are salt and pottery wares at Prestonpans and Tranent; several extensive
distilleries ; and fisheries at Dunbar. Haddlng^n, a small town on the
Tyne, has the largest market in Scotland for a^cultural produce ; the
b.-p. of John Knox and Alexander II. North Berwick: near it i» Tan-
tallan Castle, an ancient stronghold of the Douglases; and tiie Bsoa
Kockj at one time the State prison for the kingdom, where many of tibe
Scottish reformers were incarcerated. Prestonpans : here Charles Stewart,
the Pretender, defeated the royal forces under Cope, in 1745.
Berwick lies S.E. of Haddington, in the basin of the Tweed. — Sil-
urian in the N., Devonian in W., and carboniferous limestone in S.E.
Surface hilly and barren in the N., where are the Lammermoors ;
but the districts of Lauderdale in the W., and Merse in the S., are
highly fertile and well cultivated; agriculture in a highly advanced
state ; wheat and turnips are the principal crops. Minerals and manu-
factures unimportant ; but many mteresting remains of antiquity, such
as castles, towers, abbeys, and priories. Greenlaw is the smallest county
town in Scotland, with the exception of Dornoch. Bnnse, the birth-
place of Dims Scotus. Thomas Boston, and M'Crie the historian.
Roxburgh, S. of Berwick, is nearly all in the basin of the Tweed. —
Carboniferous in S., Devonian in centre and N., Silurian in W., with an
extensive tract of trap-rock in the E. Surface hilly in the vicinity of
the Cheviots, but elsewhere a level and fertile plain; agriculture im-
proving, but the county is chiefly pastoral ; minerals— coal, lime, marl,
and freestone ; the manufactures are chiefly Scotch tweeds and other
woollens. Jedburgh, near the Cheviot Hills, is famous in Border war-
fare, in which it repeatedly suffered by fire. Hawick, on the Teviot. is
a thriving manufacturing town. Kelso, on the Tweed, at its junction
with the Teviot, a beautiful little town, with the remains of an abbey
built by David I. Melrose Abbey, on the Tweed, one of the most mag-
nificent ruins of the kind in Scotland. Another famous abbey in this county
and on the same river is Jedburgh Abbey, founded in the ninth century;
also Abbottford, the beautiful residence of the late Sir Walter Scott
Dumfries, S.W. of Boxbursh, in the basins of the Nith, Annan, and
Esk. — Chiefly Lower Silurian, but New Red in the S., and carboniferous
limestone in the S.E. The county is divided into three districts — Niths-
SCOTLAND. lid
dala, Annauitile, and Eskdale. Surface genorallv liillv, especially in th»
N. and N.E., where is the Lovrther ruDge ; bdiI rertUe In tha lowlands,
and affording' good poaturage on tha high grounds; niinerala — limaaloiie,
coal, and lead. Dnm&iet, with its Euhurlj HazweUtOwn, is a thriving
town, and the proviDcial capital of tha south of Scotlaud. Here are ia-
terrad the remaina of Robert Bums, the Scottisli poet, and of Joha
Comyn, who was stabbed by Robert Bmce in 13133. Annan, on a rivar
of same name, with a good natural harbour i shipbuilding, cotton (gc-
tories, and rope-works ; considerabie eiport trade. HoStit. a neat villagB
mitch freqnented by invalids, who resort hen to the ohalylieate and aul-
phurona springs.
KlBXCODEiUOHT, OT EoBt Gallowaj, W. of Dnmfriea, Fhieftv in the basins
of the Dae and Nith. Nearly all Lower Silurian ; surfaea billy ; cHmato
mild and moiat ; soil productive in the sonth, bnt the main part only
affordinK pasture for sheep, 'which are reared in great numbers. Eirk-
cndbrigbt, on the Dee, near its month in the Solway, has the best bar-
liaur in the south of Scotland, bnt little trade.
WiOTOWN, or West Galloway, W. of Kirkcudbright, a peninankr coanty
in the extreme S.W. of Scotland. Is all Lower Silurian: surface tmdu-
luting, with many small lakes ; soil fertile, well tilled, or in BiceUent pai-
turs : climate moist and mUd ; breeds of cattle very superior ; abounds
ia Drnidical antiqaities. Ti^wn, n sniall town, with t.teaui commnni-
cation to Liverpool. Newton-Stewart; hand-loom weaving, and trade
in wool with Lanoaahira. StraJU-aor; hand-loom weaving, tanneries,
nail-factoriea, steam conimuniration with Glasgow, Belfast, and White-
tiaven, and submarine telegraph to Cnrrickfergns. Fort-Patriok, Sljk m.
from Ireland, a small town, with a line of submarine telegraph to Don<
AVB, N, of Wigtown, Ilea in tha lower basin of the Clyde. Carbonifer-
ous in tha N. and W., Devonian in thecentre, and Lower Silurian with trap
iu the S. Surface monntaioons, but fertile tracts of land alongthe eoaat ;
agricnltora in an improved state, and the soil extensively drained ; iron
and coal mines numerous; manufactures of woollen and cotton Btufiii, and
embroidered work. Ayrshire consists of three districts — Carrich in tho
S., Sgte in the centra, and Cunmngham in the N. Ayr, a flna seaport
town, with large exports of coal, an extensive gsneral trade, and several
factories, is the scene of the early achievements of Sir William Wallace.
Saltcoats (so called from its manufactures of salt) ; shipbnilding docks,
weaving and embroidery. Lor^, memorable for tho victory obtained by
Alexander III. over Haco, king of Norway, in 1263. Irvine, with Isjge
export trade in coal ; weaving of book-muslin and jaconela. EilmBT-
noek, hj tar the largest town in the county, has numerous manufactnres.
Qirvan is chiefly engaged in the cotton manufacture.
Bbkfbew, N, of Ayr, in the basin of Clyde, consists of ooal-meaanres
In the E. , and all the rest trap ; surface level, except in the W, ; cool,
limoBtona, and freestone abound ; the manufactnras are ahawla, and silk
and cotton atuffa ; two-Eftha arable. Eenftsw is the nominal capital o(
the county. Fort-Slaagow, a thrivmg town, 'with a good harbour and
docks, was lonff the port of Glasgow, and continues to be the chief port in
the Clyde for importing Americon timber. Qieenock, a largo thriving
town on the Clyde, and the greatest seaport in the west of Scotland ;
tsmona for ship and steamboat building; and the birthplace of James
Watt, who invented the steam-engine. Fiisley, an important manufao-
luringtown; has been long famoaa for shawls, muslins, and cotton thread;
coal and iron mines in the vicinity, which afford material for its nuiaex-
150 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
ous iron-works. It was the birtlrplace of Professor Wilson, of Alexander
Wilson the ornithologist, and of Robert Tannahill the poet.
Lanark, E. of Renfrew, in the basin of the Clyde.— Carboniferons in
the N. . Devonian in the centre, and Lower Silurian in the S. Surface very
variable, and only one-third arable; coal, iron, and lead mines very exten-
sive and valuable. This is the greatest manufacturing county in Scotland.
Lanark, the nominal capital, has a laige statue of Sir William Wallace.
Glasgow, the laigest city in Scotland, and the third largest in Britain
(being exceeded only by London and Liverpool), is the great seat of
Scottish commerce and manufactures. Cotton is the principal staple,
but there are numerous iron-furnaces and large coal and iron works. It
is especially famous for shipbuilding and the construction of machhieTy.
The University, founded in 1450, has 26 professors, about 1200 stndente,
about 80 scholarships, a library of 59,000 volumes, and a museum founded
by Dr W. Hunter, containing a valuable collection of natural curiosities.
There are many other magnificent public edifices, amongst which are St
Mungo's Cathedral, the only perfect specimen of the ancient Gothic in
Scotland, and the new Royal Exchange : pop. (in 1871) 548,000 ; in same
year, 8830 vessels of 2,161,050 tons burden, entered and cleared theport
Rntherglen and Hamilton, considerable manufacturing towns on the Cqrde.
Airdrie and Wishaw have extensive coal and iron mines in their vicinity.
Linlithgow, or West Lothian, N.E. of Lanark, in the basin of tiie
Forth. — Almost wholly carboniferous ; surface beautifully varied and un-
dulating ; soil generally fertile, but swampy in the south, and three-
fourths arable ; coal extensively wrought ; manufactures imimportanl
Linlitibgow contains the remains of a royal palace, whei*e Mary Queen of
Scots was bom in 1542. Bathgate, with a well-endowed academy ; here
is wrought the celebrated Torbanehill mineral. Bo'ness, with a coal and
iron mine extending under the bed of the Forth.
Peebles, E. of Lanark, in the basin of the Tweed. — Almost entirely
Lower Silurian, but a little coal and Devonian in the N. W. ; surface well
wooded, but full of hills and bogs ; one-third arable, and two-fifths in pas-
ture ; large numbers of sheep and cattle reared. Coal is raised in the
N.W. ; a few wooUen manufactures. Peebles, a small town at the con-
fluence of the Tweed and the Eddleston, with various woollen manufac-
tures. Innerleithen, with a mineral spring, the " St Ronan's Well " of
Sir Walter Scott.
Selkibk, between Peebles and Roxburgh, in the basin of the Tweed, was
formerly cailed Ettrick Forest. — Wholly Lower Silurian ; surface mostly
mountainous, but one-half arable ; chiefly a pastoral county, producing
excellent breeds of sheep and cattle. Selldrk, on the Ettrick, near which
is the birthplace of Mungo Park, the African traveller ; long famoua for
the manufacture of shoes, and hence the corporation was called " the
Sutors of Selkirk." Galashiels, with highly-flourishing manufactures of
tweeds, is rapidly increasing in population.
The Ten Central Counties.
Fife, a peninsular county between the Firths of Forth and Tav. —
Chiefly cai-ooniferous, largely interspersed with trap ; surface diversined;
two-thirds under cultivation. The " How of Fife," traversed by the
Eden, is very productive. Minerals, coal and lime; manufactures,
linen ; exports— ^oal, lime, and fish. Cupar, on the Eden, and in the
centre of the " How of Fife," with spinning-mills and linen manufactures.
St Andrews, a town of great antiquity, with a celebrated University^ the
SCOTLAND. 151
_ in Scotlanil, fonndod in lill ; consists oE two coUegen, naiiicd St
Mai;'>, which is s diviuitf hall, and &t Solvaior, now united with Si,
Lennoid'B, with H profeaaora, and 74 bursaiias of illOOO annual value. St
Andrens was long the ecdesiaatical capital af Scotland, and was the ncene
of mnnyoC the most rematkable political aud leligious eveiila in Scot-
tish history. Eiikcsldy has conaLderable trade; and is the b.-p. of Adam
Smith, ontbor of 'Tlia Wesltli of Nations.' Dnuibrmlliie, a place of
great historical interest, and notad in modern times for its linen inanufac-
tares; here was bom Charles I., and here Charies U. subscribed the
Solemn I«iEH? ^"^ Covenant in 1650.
EiNEiOBS. W. of Fife, in the basin of the Forth, is the second smallest
■..county in Scotland.— Coal-measures in the S. and K , aud trap in the N.
^ud W. ; surface varied aud well cultivated ; minerals and manufactures
Hpoiiuiportsnt. Einrou, on Loch J.even, a small tovm 'with manui'actnies
^Mf cotton, taiioQ shawls, and damasks.
r CuiOKXtsui^, W. of Kinross, in the basin of the Forth, is the smallest
^■eoluitj' in Scotland.— Principally carboniferous, but trap.rocka in the N.
Tba nver Devon, whose iinnka are highly fertile^ traverses the county on
ila iniy to the Forth. Principal minerals— coal, ironslflne, and sandstone.
Alloa, the principal town, near tlie head of the Firth of Forth, has con-
nderable export trade and shipbuilding, and is noted for its excellent ale.
Stibijnb, W. of Clackmannan, in the basins of the Forth and Clyde.—
Carbcmlferous and trsu in E. aud S., Devonian in the centre, and crystal,
iinarocki in the W. Surface mountainous, especially in the W., whero
JleB Lomond attains a height of 3192 feet. The Carae lands, along the
yorth, are level and fertile, and two-thirds of the whole county arable.
Mineroli — coal, ironstone, and freestone. Here are the celebrated Carroll
iKin-worba. Manufactures — carpets, tartans, tweeds, winceys, blankets,
paper, and chemical products ; many cotton-mills, foundries, dye-works,
and distiUeriea. Stirling, on the right bank of the Forth, is a place of
great historical imjiortance in the early annals nf Scotland, contains a
caatle of great antiqnity, which ia one of the fonr military depots still
upheld in Scotland by virtue of the Articles of Union. FnlMrk is the
■eat of three great annual cattle - fairs, called " TiTJsts," at which
usnally 300,000 cattle and sheep exchange bands. Two memorable
battles were fought here ; one between Wallace and Edward I. in 12B8,
and the other between Prince Charles Edward and the royal army in 1746.
BionookbiiTn, famous for a victory guned by the Scots, under Bruce,
oveitbe English in 131 4. Kilsyth — cotton-weaving, coal and iron mines ;
hen HontrosB gained a victory over the Coveiumters.
DCIIBABTOM, W. of Stirling, in the basm of Clyde.— Geological struo-
tnre same as last ; surface mostly monntainous ; anil poor, but fertile and
well tultivated in the lowlands ; iron and coal mines, with quarries of
limestone and freestone ; cotton-mills, g1ass>works, paper-mills, and print-
fields. DnmbaTton, on the Leven. near its confluence witli the Clyde,
with an ancient castle, one of the four upheld by GovemmenL EBlens-
bnrgli, a watering-place on the Clydo. Kirkintilloch, with manufactures
of luta, cotton-weaving, and iron-foundries.
BOTB ANO Akran, two large islands, w-ith severalsmaller, in the Firth
of Clyde, — Bute is Devonian in S., Silurian in the middle, and mica slate
In N. ; while Anan is eitremely varied, being almost an opitomB of the
geohwy of Great Britain. Both islands are mountainous in the X, and
1indl£ting in the S. Goatfell, in Artan. attains a height of 287t feet.
152 POLITICAL GEOGBAPHY.
renders it the resort of many invalids. Sothesay, at tlie head of a bay
on the E. side of Bute, is a famous resort of invalids and sea-hatheirB.
Lamlash, in Arran, with a well-protected harbour.
Abotll, N. of Bute, and in the extreme west of Scotland, chiefly con-
sists of peninsulas and islands. — Metamorphic rocks, with laive patdles of
granite and trap. It is the second largest county in Scotland, and one of
the most thinly peopled, having only 27 persons to each square mile.
Surface mountainous, and only a small part cultivated ; catue largely
reared for exportation. Inverary, on Loch Fyne, principally supported
by its herring-fishery. Campbelton, on the E. coast of Cantyn, with
distilleries and malt-houses. Dunoon, a fashionable watering-place on the
Oyde.
Perth, N.E. of ArgyH, in the basins of the Tay and Forth.— Chiefly
metamorphic, but Devonian and coal in the S. and E. It is the tlurd
largest county in Scotland ; surface extremely diversified, and comprising
both a highland and lowland region ; the Grampian range traverses it in
a north-easterly direction. The Carse of Gowne is very fertile, but CMoly
two-thirds of the county is under culture ; agriculture greatly improved ;
beautiful scenery and large plantations. Minerals — coal, limestone, sand-
stone, marble, and slate ; and lead found in some places ; manufactures
unimportant, except at Perth. Perth, a beautiful city on the Tay, was
the capital of Scotland till 1440 ; had the royal palace of Sixme in the
vicinity : it is very ancient, and figures prominently in Scottish history.
Crieff, a beautiful little town near the foot of the Grampians. Anehtor-
arder: here originated the famous controversy between the civil and
ecclesiastical comlis, which led to the dismemberment of the Church of
Scotland in 1843.
Forfar, or Angus, E. of Perth, in the basins of the Tay, South Esk, and
North Esk. — Nearly all Devonian, but metamorphic in the N.W. ; sur-
face varied, and divided into four parallel belts—viz.. Braes of Angus,
Vale of Strathmore, Sidlaw HiUs, and the plain along the Firth of Tay.
Soil various, but agriculture in a highly advanced state. Forfarshire is
the chief seat of the coarse-linen manufacture of Scotland. Forfkr, in
the fertile valley of Strathmore, is the nominal capital. Dundee, at the
mouth of the Firth of Tay, is the third largest town in Scotland, and the
principal seat of the linen, jute, and glove manufacture ; is a higUy-
flourishing town, with a large export trade ; in 1869, 2543 vessels, of
472,015 tons burden, entered and cleared the port. Arbroath, also called
Aberbrothock, from its position on the mouth of the little river Brothock
—a lai^ge thriving town, with numerous manufactures. Montrose exports
more com than any other seaport in Scotland ; numerous manufactures ;
the birthplace of the celebrated Marquess of Montrose and of Joseph
Hume, ^echin, an ancient Episcopal city, with an old cathedral ; in its
vicinity is the residence of the Earl of Dalhousie.
Kincardine, or the Meams, N.E. of Forfar, between the N. Esk and
the Dee. — Devonian in the S. and gneiss in the N, ; surface highly moun-
tainous, being chiefly occupied by the Grampians ; but the ** How of tiie
Meams," in the S. and E., is a low, rich, arable tract. The mountuns
yield extensive pasture for sheep, and about half of the county is under
cultivation. Granite and sandstone are the principal minerals ; and the
chief manufactures are coarse linen and wooden snuff-boxes. Stone-
haven, a small town between the rivers Cowie and Carron, has a herring-
fishery, and some manufactures of cotton and linen. Near it is Dimottar
Castle, formerly the residence of the Earls Marischal, and celebrated in
Scottish histor}'.
\
153
The Tes Noethekn Couhties.
Abbbdbek, N. of Kincardine, tmd between tha Dee and Deveron. —
Oranite and metBinorphic rocka, with two patcbBs of Sevanian in the W.
and N. ; sniface very iiiountaiiiou< in the S.W,, along the Orampians ;
the rart level or nndulating; only one-third arable, which ia under the
most skilful cnltivntion ; more fat cattle reared tb an tn any DUiBrcaiuityiu
Scotland. The county is espacislly celebrated fur its beautiful granite,
large quantitiea of which ara shipped to London ; there are also important
■late ^id sandstone qnarriea, and extenniTe salinon-fisberiea. Mannfac-
turea recently very flonriahing, especially woollen, cotton, and linen, but
now greatly declined. Balmoral Castle, the Highland residence of Qneeii
Victoria, on the river Dee, is in this county. AWdeen, between the
mouths of the Dee and Don, ia the fonrth moat populous town in Scot-
handsome city, bnilt of beautiful Kiey-colonred granite ; is
the aeat of a flourishing nniv
L place of great trade, a
— ' — ore and 270 soho . , , - ,
, entered and cleared. Peterhead, a thriving town on the north-
eaat coast, near Bucbanness, the most easterly point in Scotland; has
>n important herring-fisbery, and ia the great emporinm of the whale-
Bauff, N.W. of Aberdeen, in the Moray basin, and between the Deve-
ron and the Spey. — Mainly metamorpliic rocks ; but granite in the Ji.,
and Old Bed in the W. ; surface mnnntamouB, eicept along the coast,
where it is level and moderately fertile; only about a third is under culti-
vation; cattle-breeding is the principal branch of rural industry ; but there
are important fisheries carried on ui the small towna and villages along
the coast. The principal minerals are limestone for agricultural purposes,
ajid ^nular qnarti, exported from the Hill of Dum, near Portsoy, to the
English potteries. Banff and Maeduff, seaport towns, at the mouth of
the Deveron, with considerable export trade, CoUen, Bncbie, a
Ly Firth, withe!
■ay,neat little towns oc
Keith, the birthplace oi .lames rcrguson.
HOOAT, or Elgin, W. of BaniT, in the Moray basm, between the Spev
and the Kndhorn.~OId Red m the N.. which is highly fossiliferons, and
gneiss in the remainder ; surface, level along the DrtlL elsewhere mouD-
tainons ; only about one-Hfth under cnltivation ; soil a deep loam, or
light and sandy ; very fertile in the N., and biglily cultivated ; fine crops
of wheat Sandstone is the principal mineral, and is eitenaively ex-
ported; other exports are grain, cattle, salmon, and timbef from the
andent forests of Strathspey and Damaway. The principal manufac-
tnres are woollens; tanneries, diatilleriea, and tilaworka are nnmerona.
Xlgia, on the Losaie, about live miles &om its seaport (Lossiemouth), has
the remains of a beautifnl cathedral, erented in 1224— one of the finest
ruins In Scotland. Forres, a beantiful little town near the Flndbom,
with enchanting scenery; celebrated in Shakespeare's 'Macbeth."
■iomontll, a thriving seaport town ; here, in 1B69, a vei7 rich
yma discovered, with traces of copper.
NitRM, W. of Moray, in the ff
Plndhora.— Old Red in the N., (
W. Surface, mostly mgged oni
tivated ; agricultni '
le hemng-fisheries.
:h vein of lead
iray basin. Is drained by the Maim and
in the S, , and some granite in the
ntainons, but nearly one-half cul-
ate, but no important minerals or
I mannfactiSea- Haira, an antiquated-looking little town, with eiports of
I fish, stones, grain, and timber; near it Cawdot Castle, where, acGordiog
I to tradition, King Duncan was murdered.
154 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Inverness, S.W. of Nairn, chiefly in the Ness or Moray basin, is the
largest county in Scotland ; area, 4256 square miles ; population 88,888,
being 21 persons to the sq. m. — Gneiss and mica slate, with a patcli of
Old Ked in the N.B., but trap and Old Ked in Skye; surface highly
mountainous ; Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the Bntish Isles (4406
feet), is in the S.W. It is well wooded, and a chain of lakes, connected
by the Caledonian Canal, passes through the centre. Soil light and un-
productive, with moie than one-half wholly waste ; but there are im-
mense forests where the red and roe deer roam in safety. The county is
chiefly pastoral, and the principal exports are black cattle, sheep, and
wooL Here the Celtic language and character are still found in their
purest forms. Inverness, at the mouth of the Ness, and near the
entrance of the Caledonian Canal, a fine, old, romantic town, r^arded as
the capital of the Highlands, and the most populous town north of Aber-
deen, with which it is connected by railway. It is the only important
town in Britain in which the Gaelic language is usually spoken by all
classes of the inhabitants. Near it, Cnlloden Moor, where the preten-
sions of the Stewart dynasty were finally extinguished in 1746. Fort
G^rge, the most complete fortification in the kingdom, has accommoda-
tion for 2000 men.
Ross, N. of Inverness, and between the Moray Firth and the Minch. —
Almost wholly metamorphic, but Old Bed along the two coasts ; surface
very mountainous, and only one-fifth arable ; fertile on the Moray Firth,
producing excellent wheat, but the main portion is pastoral; exports
chiefly sheep and wool. Dingwall, an antique-looking little town at the
head of the C*romarty Firth; near it, Strathpeffer, with highly medicinal
chalybeate and sulphurous springs, resembling those of Harrogate, and
frequented by a large number of invalids. Tain, a neat thriving town
on the Dornoch Firth, and the most important between Inverness and
Wick.
Cromarty consists of fourteen detached portions, scattered over the
northern half of Ross-shire. This singular arrangement into patches was
formed at the request of a former Earl of Croinuarty, who desired that
one county might contain all his lands, wherever situated. Its geologv,
drainage, soil, &c., same as Ross. The Cromarty Firth is completely
land-locked, and affords excellent shelter for shipping. Cromarty, at the
entrance of Cromarty Firth, is irregularly built, and of antique appear-
ance ; the birthplace of Hugh Miller, who commenced here his iUusmous
geological career.
Sutherland, N. of Ross, and between the Moray Firth and the At-
lantic.— Nearly all transition and Silurian rocks, with a little Old Red in
N.W. and S.E., and an oolitic patch at Brora ; surface wild and moun-
tainous ; scenery in many places singularly grand, and containing many
lakes, which discharge their waters in three directions. The interior
wholly depopulated, this being the centre of the far-famed Highland
clearances, vrtiich commenced in 1807, and were repeated at various in-
tervals. A vast number of the inhabitants have been expatriated, and
the remainder reside in villages and hamlets along the coast, where they
support themselves mainly by fishing. The interior is now let out into
immense sheep-farms, which are chiefly in the hands of English capi-
talists ; about 220,000 sheep are exported annually. Dornoch, on tne
Dornoch Firth, opposite Tain, is a mere village, and the smallest county
town in the British Isles— population, 625. Gol8lt>ie, a beautiftd village on
the east coast, with Dunrobin Castle, the ancient residence of the Earls
of Sutherland, in the vicinity.
r
w
K
liighly fosaiMerana in majif parts,
leru pntohes of granite ; snrfacB
TBI, aBsutnw 01 trees, aua unmiereating ; soil Tarions, a lai^ portion
being hoath-coTOrad moors, and onlyoue-foiirtli nnJBreiiltirBtioii. Many
good roadfi and piers have been recently conatrueted for t^e acoonunoda-
tion of the numerous tishing villages and liamlsts on tlie east coast.
Abmrt 200,000 barrels of aalted herrings are exporWd annually; other
exports are salmon, oata, and flagstones for paring. This county was, in
tlie middle ages, bsld by the kings of Norway ; most of its inbabitants
are of Scandinavian descent, and speak a peculiar dialect of the Lowland
Scotch, coaBidBiably resembling that of Orkney. Tick, including Pnl-
WnsTtDWD wliicli is twice ita size, is a flauTiabing town on the east coast,
with an ImmnnsB pier and breakwater now in couns of erection. Fortlie
last halt-century it has been the lieadquartera of the Scottish herring-
tohery. Upwards of 1000 boats are here employed, chiefly manned by
■■WeWem Highlanders, who in the month of July congregate here in vast
■~ ' Here are two spirited weekly newspapers, and a rapidly-
eiport trade, conaiating chielfy of herringa to the Baltic.
^ beautiful little town on the Pentlanif Firth, and the most
northerly on the mainland of Scotland Its position is nnfavonrable to
its proaperity as a fishing-town, being exroeed to the north, and the rapid
dangerous ciurent of the Pentland Firth, across which the Orkneys are
Ken in all their bold grandeur.
Ohkbet and Shetlake form an insular coonty N.E. of the mainland.
The former conaiata of an archipelago of 67 islands and ialeta, the
piindpal of which are Pomona, Seutli and Xorth Ronaldsha, Hoy,
Sanda, Eowea, and Weatra ; shores bold, the interior generally undulat-
iag; dimatemild; little snowfalls in winter, but the summers chill and
moist Geological atmcture : wholly Devonian ; soil good, but agricnl-
tnra vary backwaid ; many of the people employed In fishii^t, or in
taking wild birda and ezga : great quantities of lobsters are shipped to
tha London market. The Orcadians are expert seamen, and many of
them are engaged in the Greenland whale fishery. Shetland, 48 miles
N.E. of Orkney, consists of an archipelago of about 90 islanda and islets,
of which only 26 are inhabited. Mainland, the largest island, contains
one-half the whole area, and more than a half of the population. The
next largest are Yell and Unst, the latter being the most northern island
in the British archipelago (lat. fiO° 60" N.)— Devonian in the 3. ; all the
reat gnHiss, with lai^e patches of trap and granite ; climate rnild, but
■very dainp and variable ; surface generally monntainoua, covered with
heath, and deatitnte of trees : a considerable quantity of tolerable land
haa been made by long culture. The Shetland ponies are remarkable for
their small size and hardihood, and are largely exported ; other exports
■re ling, task, and cod. The only native manufacture is knitted hosiery ;
■nd tbs only mineral of importance is chromata of iron, which is ei*
ported for a pigment. Tlie people of both archipelagos are of Norss
erttaotioii. Their language is now English, but indubitable traces of
their Scandinavian origin are found in their namea, manners, customs,
ropentitions, language, and antiquities. They became subject to Norway
in. the ninth century, embraced Christianity in the thirteenth, and were
I lumexed to the Scottish crown in 1468. Kirkwall, the capiljil of the
V Orkneys and of the county above named, on a bay on the N.E. side of
~ a, with an ancient cathedral named St Magnus (built 11371, and
156 POUTICAL OEOGRAPHT.
some manufactures of linen. Lerwick, the priucipal town in Shetland,
on the S.E. of Mainland, is the most northern town in the British
Isles; has manufactures of straw-plait, and whale, cod, and herring
fisheries.
Capes and Promontories. — St AbVs Head, iu Berwickshire;
Fifeness, E. of Fife ; Buchanness (Aberdeenshire), the most £. point
of the mainland of Scotland ; Kinnaird Head, at the entrance of
the Moray Firth ; Tarbetness, the £. extremity of Ross ; Noss Head,
and Duncansby Head, £. of Caithness ; Dunnet Head, the most
IT. point of the mainland ; Oldhead and Dennis Head, the S. and N.
extremities of Orkney ; Sumburgh Head, S. of Shetland ; Her^
maness, N. of Shetland, the most northern point in the British
archipelago ; Cape Wrath, N. of Sutherland ; Butt of Lewis, N. of
the Hebrides ; Aird Point, N. of Skye ; Point of Ardnamorchan
(Argyll), the most western point of Great Britain ; Mull of Cantyre,
S. of Argyll ; Mull of Galloway and Burrow Head, S. of Wigtown.
Islands. — The islands are very numerous, especially on the north
and west coasts, and are naturally divided into three groups : —
On the North Coast.— The Orkneys, N.E. of Caithness: principal,
Pomona and Hoy. The Shetlanda, N.E. of the Orkneys : principal.
Mainland, Yell, Fetlar, and Unst. On the West Coast.— The Hebrides or
Western Islands, 160 in number, of which 70 are inhabited, and divided
into two clusters, the Outer and Inner Hebrides, which are separated by
the Little Minch. The Outer Hebrides, called also Long Island, lie W.
of Sutherland and Ross : the principal are, Lewis, the largest island in
Scotland ; N. Uist, Benbecula, S. Uist, and Barra. The Inner Hebrides :
principal, Skye, Mull, lona. Jura, and Islay. Arran, Bute, and the
Cumbraes, in the Firth of Clyde. On the East Coast. — May, Inchkeith,
luchcolm, in the F. of Forth ; Inchcape, or the Bell Rock, off the en-
trance of the F. of Tay ; Stroma, bet. Caithness and Orkney ; Fair Island,
bet. Orkney and Shetland.
Bays and Estuaries. — These are also numerous, and generally
penetrate far into the mainland, in a N.E. and S.W. direction.
Those on the east side are called firths (from Scandinavian fiord,
pronounced " fiurth "), those on the W., lochs, corresponding to the
loughs of Ireland. The principal are : —
F. of Forth, bet. the Lothians and Fife ; St Andrews Bay, N.E. of
Fife ; F. of Tay, bet. Fife and Forfar ; Moray F. in the N.E. of Scot-
land, 75 m. wide, bet. Kinnaird Head and Duncansby Head (its main
parts are, Beauly^F., bet. Inverness and Ross ; Cromarty F., bet. Ross
and Cromarty; jDomoch F., bet. Ross and Sutherland); Pentland F.,
bet. Caithness and Orkney; Thurso Bay, N. of Caithness; Kyle of
Tongue and Loch Eribol, N. of Sutherland; Loch Laxford and Loch
Enard, W. of Sutherland; Lochs Broom, Greinord, Ewe, Gairloch.
Torridon, Carron, and Alsh, W. of Ross ; Sleat Sound, bet. Inverness and
Skye ; Loch Houm, in W. of Inverness ; Sound of Raasay, bet, Skye and
Raasay ; Lochs Snizort and Bracadale, in W. of Skye ; Sound of Harris, bet.
Harris and N. Uist ; Loch Sunart and Sound of Mull, bet. Mull and the
mainland ; Lochs Iannh€ and Eil, forming the W. entrance to the Cale-
donian Canal ; Loch Etive and Soimd of Jura, W. of Argyll ; Kilbrannan
Sound, bet. Cantyre and Arran ; Loch Fyne, in S. of Argyll ; Sound of BatOi
r
SCOTLAND. 157
bet. Artan and Bute j Locli Long, btt. Argyll nnil Dmiiliarton: Firth of
Cljde, eeparating Amui, Biil«, and Dumbarton tram Ayr and ftcnfitw ;
Loch Eyan, Luce Bay, and Wietowii Buy, in Wigtowmhird ; Solway F.,
bet. the S.W. of Scotland and the N.W. of England ; the Minch, het. Uia
Mainland and Lewis ; Little Miiicb, bet Skye and Long laland ; Sound of
Islay, bet. Islay and Jura ; North Cbannal, bet. Scotland and Ireland.
UDDntRln BrBtem. — Scotland is a liighly-moDntainous country,
there beia^ few or no localities where motiutaiii-rangea do not limit
the observer's view in one or more directions, Proceedlaa; from N.
to S., wa find five principal ranges, all of which arc near^' pamUal
to each other, and follow the general direction of N.E. and S.W,,
similar to the principal estneries.
Tlie Vortlieiil Eig'llluidi, consieting of detached groups that com-
mence at the southern border if Csitbneaa, and cover a lane portion of
Sutherland, Boea, and Inverness, separate the waters which now into the
Moray Firth troia those that find their way to the Atlantic. The prin-
cipal auminiCs are: Ben Attow, between Bo«a and Inremesa, 4000 feet;
Ben Wyvis, near Dingwall, 3422 feet ; Ben Dearg, near head of Luch
Broom. 3551 feet : Ben More, in Asajnt, 3281 feet ; Ben Cllberieh, 8. iif
Loch Nayer. Sutherland, 3157 feet; Morven, in 9.E. of CiitluieiB, 2831
feet.
The Oramplans, the loftiest monnCaina In the British Isles, croai the
conntry in its widest part. They separate, for the most part, the Hiih-
lands from the Lowlands, and the basins of the Spey and Dee from tuat
of the Tay on the east aide, and the great vaUey of Glenmora and the
Olyde basin on the west. Length, from StonehBven to Loch Llnnhf,
■boot 100 mites, the height ranging from 2000 feet to npwards of 4000
feet. Ben Ketis, at the western eitramity, 4106 feet high, is the cnlmln-
■ting-point of the British Isles. The main range send* on two great later*!
bnncbea, odb \a the N. from the middle of the range, which soon bifnr-
cataa and eneloses a Urge portion of Banffshire ; and the other to the 8.
r Loch BuiDooh, in Perthshire, to the isthmus of Cowal in
AkjIL PriDcipal summits: Ben Kevia,* In the S.W. of Inve
MMftet; Loch-ntesr, tn AbeideeDshire. 3777 feet ; Ben Haedni.ui ins
8LW.orAbenlecDibln^4295fMjCe{nigorm,in BanftaMre, 40BS; Ben
Atod, bet. Banff and Aberdeen, 3626 feet : Curntoul, near Ben Avon,
^a bet ; Beo l^weii, 3M4, and Sebieballion, SM4 feet, in Perthshire ;
&BLoB«id,iiiBtiilinb31B21eeti ficDCnuehan, in Argyll, .1070 ftst..
OAQ Bid Bdlaw BaMga, pacallel with the Gramjrians, and Hpanted
fiOM than t» tlw vaDey of Stnthinin:&^ eonsiits M three small eha^is.
vUek exlend acniie the eonntty &om yoffanhiie to Stiriinc^iin, and
iorm tkeK. mter-paitii« of the l^y. Forth, and ayda bariua. 1^ 8id-
'— "—- -^-' ^- ^- -* — "~ *- '— tasblni, to Perth on tba Tay,
_ , „ sit, the Kinaseat, bring only
UeSfatU^ The Oeiili^ brtweso Stirlins and Uw r. of 1W, att^,
'- °v OtA^ eknliaB of 8300 be^ and the Camfn* Fdit, in 8tit-
■aSXiliri li t»>eiii|il»att«Ml|y»ah— w. TIims iHi»i laifcii has
158
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
of the following members : the Lammennxxyr HilUj between Haddington
and Berwick— highest summit, 1763 feet ; the Moorfoot UUU, a W. con-
tinuation of the Lammermoors, 2130 feet ; the Pentland ffilh, in Mid-
Lothian, 1806 feet ; and Tinto Hill, in Lanarkshire, 2308 feet.
The Cheviot and Lowther Baiige extends from Peel Fell in the
Cheviots proper (for which see "England," p. 135), to Loch Ryan in
Wigtownsnire, and forms the great water-partmg of the S. of Scotland,
separating the basins of the Clyde and Tweed on the N. from those of
the Solway and Tyno on the S. Tlie highest summits of this range are :
Cheviot Peak, 2668 feet, Carter Fell, 2020 feet, in Northumberland;
Ettrick Pen, in Selkirk, 2200 feet ; Hart Fell, in Dumfries, 2638 feet ;
Broad Law, in Peebles, 2741 feet ; Lowther Hill, in Lanark, 2522 feet ;
Mt. Merrick, 2764, and Black Larg, 2890 feet, both in Kirkcudbright.
BlYer-Baslns. — ^As the mountain-ranges in Scotland stretch from
N.E. to S. W., so the intervening river-basins, in their greatest length
and inclination, follow the same direction. The eight most impor-
tant basins are those of the Tay (2090 sq. m.), Tweed and Solway
(1990), Forth (1400), Dee and Don (1230), Spey (1245), Clyde (1145),
Linnhe basin (1200), Moray basin (about 5000).
Three of the eight basins lie N. of the Grampian chain — viz., the Moray
basin, and the basin of the Dee and Don (tne waters of which nearly
unite), on the E. side, and the Linnhe basin on the W. ; and their united
areas comprise almost the whole of the district known as the Scottish
Highlands. Immediately S. of them lie the basins of the Tay and Forth
on. the E. side, and that of the Clyde on the W. ; these touch each other,
and are separated from the former three by the Grampian cliain, and
from the Tweed and the Solway basins by the Lammermoor and Lowther
ranges : they are fertile and highly cultivated ; contain most of the large
towns, and many rich mines of coal, ironstone, and other valuable mine-
rals ; and have been called respectively the garden, the granary, and the
workshop of Scotland. The first is separated from the second by the
Ocliil Hills, and the second from the third by the Campsie FeUs. Tlie
basins of the Tweed and Solway constitute the Southern Highlands, and
form an excellent pastoral country. They are separated from England
by the Cheviot range, and from each other by the Lowthers ; while the
Tweed basin is separated from the Forth by the Lammermoor Hills, and
the Solway basin from that of the Clyde by the Lowther range.
^ Table of BlYers and Towns.— For the arrangement adopted in the
following table, compare what is said under "England," the only
difference being that here large towns, or those printed in Roman
letters, denote those having 2500 inhabitants or upwards ; county
towns are in small capitals, and all others in italics. One hun-
dred rivers are here enumerated, 33 of which enter the ocean directly,
the remainder being their tributaries ; and 300 towns, one-third of
which have a population exceeding 2500.
Basins inclined to the North Sea,
Rivers. Tovms.
Tweed Berwick (England), Cold-
stream, Kelso, Earl-
ston, n^, Melrose, In-
nerleitnent Peebles.
Whiteadder, I Duuse.
Rivers, Totons.
B I a c kad- Oreeitla w.
der,
Teviot, Kelso, Hawick, WiUon,
J ed, Jedburgh.
Leader, I . , Lauder.
to Ilie Xortb Sea (coi
...Utrrtli hirwick, Cocttn-
tit, Tnmmt, n.. Prti-
tonjunu. Mnsnlbureb.
Portobeilo, IjglCli, &>-
iHBtmaH, XnihaMn,
eHueatfiny, Bo'nesB,
entUKiiwnU, all 8. ol
the SMh; CTOil, Av-
■tnitJtfr, St JTmuhui,
.DuortKlrltcitdT,
Viiijlorn, BnralU-
:, AUi
a
..L«veii,Vnrl
ti. HUnathort.
.. ,.i,oengeuii.
. . .MaiMlbargh. Dalkallh,
Loanhead, Pmieuick.
. . . . Dunrermllne, Croi^fateg,
CotcdentKoih^ a., Oak-
...LuiLiTuoov. Batligite,
Armad^e, Cmfllimd,
....OonannDiiiA, Carran.
Stenlunaemuir, Lau-
Dimipace,
Aberfetiy.
Rathven, Anchtenrder.
Aluidnd, ^, . - if 0£AHfl-
Inls. 1 Covper-AnifM.
Erioht, . ..BlsJrgowtle, Jio«ray.
cbbi, SouUinuir, ...
....Xaryiirt.
I . ..Lathrrmvir, Lanronce-
huB^aa
d, Srichin, Pit-
I. Banff, PorOm, Cullen. Bqcl
fuiAafiirji.JtaUu.Ur.
Findhora Fomw, n.
flenuly Fi'rtii Fort Oeorm.jBmft, For.
andK.NcM, Irote, Bxiuly, IsveR-
Cromarty F., C
,ij^ Mtirybvry,
lather- Gol^ie, Htlmldatt.
Caitli- Lybitsr, Wick.
160
POLITICAL GEOGRAPUy.
Basins inclined to the Atlantie (continued).
Rivers. Towns,
KilbrannanSdCampbelton, Tarhert^
and L. Fyne, Lochgilphead^ Inver-
ART.
Clyde, F. and MiUport (C n m b r a e),
B., RoTHESAT(BateX Ayr,
Troon, Irvine, Salt-
coats, Ardrossan, Largs,
Dunoon, Oourock,
Greenock, Helens-
burgh, Port-Glasgow,
Dumbarton, Dun-
tocher /Re^xvuew, Glas-
gow, ShettlesUm, Toll-
cross, Springhum, Ru-
therglen, Bellshill,
BothweUfHolytoum, n. .
Low Blantyre, Hamil-
ton, Motherwell, n.,
Carluke, n., Kirkfield-
bank, Lanark, New
Lanark.
Doon, { Ayr, n. , DalmelUngton.
Ayr, I Ayr, Tarbolton,Katrine,
Muirkirk, Cumnock.
Liigar, I . . Auchifdeck.
Ir\-ine, i.. ..Irvine, Ealinton, Hurt-
ford, Kilmarnock, Kil-
maurs, Galston, New
Mills, Darvel.
Gamock,..Kilwinning, Dairy, Pees-
weep, Eilbirnie.
Annock, . . Stewarton.
Cessnock, Mauchline.
Renton,
Rivers. TownM,
Cart, I Renfrew, Paisley, JTitt-
hiU, Pollockshaws,
Bumy,Eagleshaim.
B 1 a c k£r. <^wevr, Linwood,
Cart, I, Jonn8tone,Kilbarc]ian,
Loehwinnoch, Beith.
Ley em, I.. T?iomHelHtnk, n., Barr-
head, NeiUion.
Kelvin, I.... Kirkintilloch, Kilsyth,
Cumbernauld, n.
W. Calder, . . Colder, Calderbank, Air-
drie, Coatbridge.
E. Calder, ..Wishaw, Caanbtunethanf
CoUness, n., Shotts.
Avon, I Hamilton, Stmtiiaven.
Nethan, I. . . Lesmahago.
Douglas, I . . Douglas.
Girvan, Girvan, CrosshUl, Ifay-
bole.
Loch Ryan,. . . Stranraer.
W. Co. Wig- Port-Patriek, Olenluee.
town,
Wigtown Bay, Whithorn, Wigtown,
. Creetown.
Cree, Newton-Stewart.
Fleet, Gatehouse.
Dee (Solway Kirkoudbrioht, Cattle*
F.), Douglas,
Ken, I Dairy.
Urr (do. ), Dalbeattie.
Nith(SolwayX MaxweIltown,DuiaraiEB,
ThomhiU, Cumnock.
Annan (do.), ..Annan, Eeel^echan,
Loekerby, n., Loehma-
ben, Moffat.
Leven, Dumbarton,
Alexandria, BouhiU.
Lalces. — With the exception of Switzerland, there is no country in
Europe more remarkable for its lakes than Scotland. They are in
general very small in size, as the deep inlets of the ocean prevent any
great collection of inland waters ; but they are celebrated for their
beauty and wild grandeur. Loch Lomond, the largest of them, 21
miles long, 54 broad, and with an area of 40 square miles, is justly
famed for its splendid scenery. Arranged in the order of the river-
basins in which they are situated, they are easily remembered.
Tweed Basin— <S>< Mary*8 IjocK^ in Selkirkshire, drained by the Yarrow.
Forth —ZocA .4 rrf, in Perthshire, one of the sources of the Forth ; l^tk
Leven, in Kinross, drained by the Leven * and Lochs Vennachar, Ackraji,
Kairine, Lttinaig, and Voil, all drained by the Teitt. Tay — Lochs Dock-
art and Tay, in Perthshire, at the source of the Tay ; Loch Earn, at tiie
source of the Earn ; and Lochs TutiitmI, Rannoch, Ertcht, Lydoch, drained
by the Tummel. Ness — Ness, Oich, Garry, and ^uovik, in Inverness.
Qonaxi^QUiss, JjuichaH, Fannich, in Ross. Oykill — Loch Shin, 18 miles
long, in Sutherland. Naver— XocA Naver, in SutherLmd. Ewe — LoA
Maxee, in Ross. Moidart — Shiel, Inverness and ArgylL Linnh€ and
Spean Basin — Lochy, Arkaig, and Laggan, in Inverness ; and Lochs Awe
and Avich, in Argyll^ drained by the Awe. Clyde— XocA Lomond^ drained
by the lioven.
SCOTLAND. 161
Intamal CommimleaticiiL — Scotlund, 1>ei]ig a Iiiglily-iuoui^tninoui
Cdtilitr;, cuQ nercr vie icith the sister kingdom in the extent or com-
pleteiidSS of her intemul comm^micstioii ; yet hsr noble firtha anil
eataaries, which indent the coast in oil directions, give her important
natural ?dTBBtages ; while her turnpike roade, ciinala, and railwsja,
abondantly attest the energy and public spirit of her sons.
HAlLWita. — Within the last ten jbhts raUway communication in Scot-
land has made eitraorfiuary progreaa. Tn IffiS the nnmber of milen
open for tnfflcwaa 1342; in 1861 it was 2105; while In 1874 it amoanted
to 261S. In 1359 few railways existed bsjond the central couuties, or
the baahia of tte Forth, Clyde, and Tay ; bnt they ara now numer-
oua in the south of Sratland ; while in the northern counties they
pwietrate to the eitrorae confines of the mainland — Wick and Thnrso
being now the tenninL In north-weslem ScoClimd the only linea
yet constructed are from CaUaader to Ohau, and from Dingwall la
iCASAtS. — The jiriucipal are the following: Caledrmiaa Canal, be-
tween the Beauly Pirth and Loch Linnhri, connects the Moray Filth with
the Atlantic ; total length, 60 miles— but only 23 miles required to ba
aiecnted, as the canal passes through Lochs Ness, Oich, and Lochy, and
tonDumtes in Loch Eil, an arm of the sea. Inremesa stands near the ona
aitramity, and Fort WilUam near tlis other. Forth and Clyde Canal,
iTom Glasgow to GraQRemouth in Stirling, unites the Irish with the
North Sea ; length, 35 miles ; finished in 1700, and extended frum near
Falkirk to Edinbu:^h by the Uuion Caiuil, finished in 1822, and 31 niilea
long. FaiiUg Canal, from Glasgow, throngh Paisley, to Johnstone in
Renftew; length, 11 miles. MojiilaTid Canal, between Glasgow and
Aiidrie ; 12 miles. Crinan Ca-Mtl, across the isthmus oC Canl^re, con-
nects Loch Fyne with the Sound of Jura, f) miles. The total length of
canal communication in Scotland is 225 milea.
TuRDPlKB Bouis. — In consequence of the eicellent materials forroad-
making which everywhere abound, and the skill and science of Scottish
troatees and aurveyors, the turnpike roads of Scotland are unequalled by
those o( any other conntry. In 1829 there were 3666 miles open, and
the nnmber has been since largely inoreaaeiL
and r^ecting; in their habits frugal, industrious, and persevermg; pro-
Tidence, honeslr, and extreme caution are amoog their most distinguish-
ing traits of chaiacter. They do not readily associate, and far leas
amalgamate, with foreigners, but will spare uo amount of labour and
aelt-denial to promote the welfare of their fellow-countrymen. They are
eminently reUgiaus, deeply attached to the Pi-esbyterion form of
Church goveniment, and stroiwly avereo to Roman (Stthulicism. The
aimals of no other nation can sliow such a resolute determination in de-
fence of civil and religious liberty. The Hcly Scriptures are daily read
in all the common sSiDoIa, and the poorest peasaot can generally read
and understand them. The great and saving truths of the Hible aio
(amiliarto almost every one, and the divine code of moral law is ob-
■erred by all clBSBes of the community. The Lord's Day ia universally a
dl7 of rest and religions observance; while life and property ore s^er
**— ~ any other country,
Utraitai& — Scotland, though far from being a.a opulent country.
162 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
and thongli her seats of leamine are poorly endowed, has produced
a cluster of names in all branches of science, philosophjr, and art,
that reflect on her the highest hononr. The following are a fcfw of
her most eminent names : — Poetry : Oasian, Buchanan, Gawin
Douglas, Dmmmond, Dunbar, Lyndsay, Kamsay, Tannahill, Hao-
neill, Tennant, Hogg, Robert Bums, Thomson, Beattie, Scott,
Campbell, Pollok, J/Montgomery, Profl Wilson, Alexander Smith.
History : Buchanan, Burnet, Hume, Robertson, Henry, Rnasellt
Watson, Scott, Mackintosh, Alison, Carlyle. Physical Sgisnge :
Napier, Ferguson, Gregory, Watt, Telford, Rennie, Playfair, Madau-
rin, Leslie, J. Hutton, Black, Sir David Brewster, Robert' Brown,
Hugh Miller, John Fleming, Sir Charles Lyell, and Sir Rode-
rick I. Murchison. Mental Philosophy: Keid, Hume, Karnes,
Stewart, Brown, Mackintosh, Adam Smith, and Sir W. Hamilton.
Theolooy : Knox, Leighton, Burnet, Boston, Madaurin, Macknight,
Campbell, Gerard, Brown of Haddington, Halybnrton, Witherspoon,
M'Crie, and Thomas Chalmers. Medicikb: Pitcaim, Munro, Gre-
gory, Cullen, Abercrombie, W. Hunter, BaiUie, Alison, Christison,
A. Combe, Abemethy, J. Hunter, John Bell, Sir Charles Bell, Sir
James Clark, Sir Johin Forbes, Listen, Lizars, Syme, Miller, and Sir
James Y. Simpson. Tkayels : Bruce, Park, Clapperton, Simpson,
Sir J. Ross, Dr Livingstone, and Captain Grant. Fine Ajeltb :
Wilkie, Nasmyth, Raebum, Ramsay, Jameson, Sir J. N. Patom.
Miscellaneous : Ruddiman, BosweU, Smollett, Mackenzie, Adam,
Blair, Jeffrey, Brougham, Prof. Wilson, Sir W. Scott, C. P. Smyth.
IRELAND.
PoEdtion and Boundaries. — Ireland is the second largest
island in the British archipelago. The Irish Sea, with its two
inlets, the North Channel and St Greorge*s Channel, form its
western boundary, separating it from Great Britain ; while on
the remaining tlnree sides it is bounded by the Atlantic Lying
between lat. 51° 27' and 55° 23' N., and Ion. 5° 26' and 10^ 28*
W., the mainland occupies nearly 4° of lat and a little more
than 5° of Ioil
Form, Coast-Line, and Extreme Points. — ^The general form is a ihom-
boid, the longer diagonal of which, if produced, would pass through the
most easterly point of Scotland (Buchanness). The four sides are ninned
by lines passing through Fair Head in Antrim, Erris Head in Mayo,
Mizen Head in Cork, and Camsore Point in Wexford. Properly speak-
ing, these are the extreme points ; but Malin Head, in Donegid, is the
most northern point of the mainland; Mizen Head the most southern;
Ehmmore Head, in Kerry, the most western ; and Halbert Point, on the
coast of Down, the most eastern ; greatest length, 806 m. — greatest
breadth, 175 m. The coast-line, which is wavy and continuous on the £.,
but deeply indented on the W. and N. measures about 2200 mites, being
■y 15 fi-i. .
d by III
Head uid Dobliu ; but ijie coastfl olonp the other sidee are bold and
nifkf, end fnrro B nable liarrier agaiiiBt the vaves of the AUsotic.
Area and Popnluim.— The bj^. uccorduig to the late Ordnsnce Snr-
^mj-, iB32,51EBq. m., haniE neorly tuo-fiftha dT the aiie of Great BrilKii,
Hpid oae-BJiteeoth iBrger than BBotlsnd. The ponDlatiiui in 1S41 was
■UW6.5fl4, vHle in ISH it on];' amoimted to 5,40^7oe, Hhuwing a decreaw
nhfijtrty yeais of S,6ES.B25, or nearly tme-baU' ita jireaHiit popal&tidii. It
' janeeily hnjf lu densely peopled as Soglond, hsruiE 1G6 penoDB to eaoh
»q. m. The astonishijig dBcrease dmiug the Inrt tliirty yeacB is maiuly
BttribiriililB to the famine of 1S45-47. and to the immsnae tide of emiera-
tioD that has fiubfiegamitJy tabfio place-
TOUtical ntvlslimE. — Ireland is divided Into i provinmi — vit^
I inner, LeiuBter, Mmifiter, and Cuniiaiiglit ; wMc^ are aulidiTided
IB folkrWK :—
Antrim. — ReUapt 174, CarrickferpiB 6
(Lagau), Larue 3 (L. Lome), BaUynioiiev !
.(Braidl.
Tumu fnm. lOUO (o 2SO0 : ■
DmriL — DCFWKP*TC.TCE 4 IL, Sewton-ArdB 10 (L. Strangford),
Newrj 11 (5ewry), Dnnaghndee S (X coast), Baognr 3 (Balfort L),
Iiramore S (Lagan). Gilford 3, Bauhiidge i (Bmui).
Comber, Ballynnhmcii, Poitaferryj Wairon-Poiiit, E«tlifryland, HHk-
boTDUEh, Boliywoud.
ixnagh. — Akuagb II (CaUau), XMrgas G c, Portadinni E n.
(Bann).
Keady, TanderairBc, Market-Mill, KflTtown-Hamiltoo.
Oastle Blaney, Ballyhay, CarrickniBcross, donea.
Gcran. — CiVAK S n. (Erne),
EiogBconrt, Ballieboroagh, Bctturhet, CootehilL
»— """f* — EtTKlSElLLEK 6 (Eme).
SmMcal-— Lefpuki' 1 (Foyle). Balljtihaimoii S (Erne).
Killjb^ii, Saphue, Bathmeltoii, Letterkenny, DooegaL
bnddndmrr, — LoKDimiEKBy S5 (Fojle), Cc^eraise G (Banm,
Stnrtnwn-Limirradj S (Koe).
Uaghenfeh, MaghenL
- TjToaa. — OuACH 3, Stja^ane i (Maime), 'Coatstowti 4 (Bollin-
~ ly), DmifiBiiiioii 4 n. (ElackwatBTl,
K Itewtoini-Slerart, Fintoiak, Augbna^^toy.
161 POLITICAL GEOGBAPUY.
Leinster, in the S.E., 12 Counties.
Louth. — DuNDALK 10 (Castleton), Ardee 3 (Dee), Drogheda, partly
in Meath, 14 (Boyne).
MeatlL — ^Trim 2, Navan 4 (Boyne), Kells 3 (Blackwater).
Dublin.— Dublin 246 (Liflfey), Blackrock 8, Donnybrook 2 n.,
Kingstown 12 (Dublin Bay).
Sandymount, Skerries,' Swords, Bushi Balbriggan, Chapelizod.
Wicklow. — WiCKLOW 3 (Vartry), Arklow 5 (Avoca), Bray 4
(Bray).
Bathdram, Baltinglass.
Wexford. — ^Wexford 12, Enniscorthy 5 (Slaney), New Robs 7
(Barrow).
Newtown-Barry, Gorey.
Kilkenny.— Kilkenny 13 (Nore).
Thomastown, Urlingford, Castle Comer, Callan.
Queen's County.— Maryborough 3 n.. Mount Mellick 3 (Bar-
row).
Portarlington, Abbeyleix, Monntwrath, Stradbally.
King's County. — Tullamorb 5 n. (Cloddagh), Birr or Paiaons-
town 5 (Lower Brosna).
Banagher, Edenderry.
West MeatlL — Mullinoar 5 (Brosna), Athlone 6 (Shannon).
Kilbeggan, CastlepoUard, Moate.
Longford. — Longford 5 (Camlin).
Ballymahon, Granard.
Kildare. — ^Athy 4 (Barrow), Naas 3 n. (Liffey).
Monastereven, Celbridge, Kildare, Maynooth.
Carlow.— Carlo w 8 (Barrow).
Leighlin, Tullow, Bagenalstown.
Munster, in the S.W., 6 Counties.
Waterford.- Waterford 23, Portlaw 4 n. (Suir), Dnngarvan 6
(Dungarvan B.)
Cappoquin, Lismore, Tallow, Tramore.
CorlL — Cork 79, Macroom 3 (Lee), Queenstown 9, Middletown 3
(Cork Harb.), Skibbereen 4 (Hen), Clonakilty 3 (Clonakilty Bay),
Kinsale 4 (Kmsale Harb.), Bandon 6 (Bandon), Youghal 6, Fermoy
6, Mallow 4 (Blackwater), Mitchelstown 3 (Funcheon).
Cloyne, Bantiy, Dunmauway, Millstreet, Doneraile, Buttevant, Kan-
turk, Charleville, "W. Passage.
Kerry.— Tbaleb 10 (Lee), Dingle 2 (Dingle Bay), Killamey 5 (L
KUlarney).
Listowel, Cabirciveen, Castle Island, Kemnare.
IKELAND. 16'^
OUre,— Ennw 7 (FeTgna), Kilnisli 5 (Shannon).
Killaloa. KlDteo.
T^jperuy.—CLONMEL 9, Carrick-on-Suir E, CaMr 3, Cubel i,
ThuilBB 6 (Snir), TippBrnrj- 6 (ArTa), Nenngh 6 (Senagli), Hosctea *
(Lower Brosaa).
Killenanla, CloghMn, Borriaocane, Fethard.
Idmmlek.— Lime KICK 40 (Shannon), Hathkeale 3 (Deal).
Aakeaton, CrooTa, Eilmalluck, Bruff, Kewcaatle.
CONSAnOHT, IS THE W., E CoUKTIES.
GHway.— Galwat 13 (Corrih), Tiiam S (aare), Loughrea 3 (L.
Bea), Ballinaflloa 3 (Suck).
CUfdEn, Atheniy, Pottimnti, Aglirim, Gort.
M»yo.— Cahtlebar 3 (Castlebar), Ballina S (Moj), WeBtjiort i
(Clew Bay), Ballinrobe 3 (Robe).
Crossinoliiia, SiUsIa, Ballaghadcrreen.
Bllgo.— Sligo 10 (GttrTOgne).
leltrtm.—CAiiRicK-ON- Shannon 2 (Shannon).
ManoT-Hunilton.
BMoonimcru — Roscommon 3 (Suck), Boyk 3 (BojIb Water).
CasUeieagh, Elpliin.
DeKTlpttTS KotBB.— According to the census of 1871, there were
ui Ireland two towns witli a, population abore 100,000 — viz., Dublin
and Belfast; between ICO.OOO and 60,000 only oca— Cork; twelve
Tralee, and Eingatown ; and twenty.ali between 10,000 and EOOO.
luilei dintaut. It k the moat populous, and by far the must imnor!^ ,
of tba four provincBii into which the kingdom ia liirided ; area, B6B5 aq.
m. ; population, 1,830,393. It ia deeply indeated bv arms of the aea on
the three aidea exposed to the ocean, ths principal indentations twins
LoHgh Strangford, Belfast Lough, Lough Foyl«, Lough Swilly, and
Donegal Bay. Each of these forma the estuary of a more or lesa ezten-
BiYB river-lioain. The principal fresh-water lakes are Loughs Neagh and
Erne. Geoiogical character: Metamor]ihic mcka in the It., which are
flanked with Kranite on the west aide, and with an immense tract of trap
on the east ; Lower Silurian in the S.E. ; carboniferous limestone in the
S.W. ; and DeTOHJan in the centre. The Ehorea are bold androclty, with
remackablB basaltic clitfa in the N. and E., the most celebrated of which
tiftlia under cultivation. Ulster is the principal seat of the Irish linen
manofscture, and of othor hninches of Industrv. The annual value of
the limn eiporl«d is estimated at £E,000,000 sterling. The principal mia-
166 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
eral products are coal, iron, copper, lead, and limestone, wliich are found
chiefly in Cavan. Tlie Protestant religion prevails, education is well
attended to, and the people enjoy considerable comfort as compared with
the other provinces. Belfast, generally regarded as the capital of Ulster,
is the second city in Ireland in point of i>opulation, and greatly exceeds
Dublin in manufacturing industry, especially in the linen and cotton
manufacture. It has considerable foreign trade, and extensive inter-
course with the west coast of Great Britain, especially with Liverpool and
Glasgow, and is the seat of one of the " Queen's Colleges." Carrickftr-
gus, with cotton and linen manufactories, and near it an extensive salt-
mine discovered in 1852. Idshum, a handsome and populous town ; a
canal from Lough Neagh here joins the Lagan. Bimymena, in the-
centre of an industrious, manufacturing, and agricultural district, is an
active and thriving town. DownpatriCK, the capital, is one of the meet
ancient towns in Ireland; its noly wells are resorted to by Boman
Catholic pilgrims. UTewry, the largest town in the county, is a flourish-
ing seaport, with considerable linen and cotton works. Armaf li. tiie
ecclesiastical capital of Ireland, with an observatory and two catheorals.
Lurgaa and Portadown, with manufactories of linen and cotton goods.
Monaghan, on the Ulster Canal, which unites Loughs Neagh and Eme,
trades extensively in linen and V^gs* Cavan, the head of a poor-law
union, has some local traffic. Imniskillen, delightfully situated in an
island in L. Eme, carries on a considerable trade in linen ; in its town-
hall are still preserved the banners borne by the EnniskiUeners at the
celebrated battle of the Boyne, July 1, 1690. Ballyshaimon, near fhe
mouth of the Eme, with a salmon-fishery. Londonderry, an ancient,
flourishing, and walled city on the Foyle, famous for the si^ so heroic-
ally sustamed against the army of James II. in 1689. Coleraine is one
of the principal markets for the Ulster Unen manufactures. Omagh, a
smull town with trade in linen and com. Dnngannon, the ancient resi-
dence of the kings of Ulster, has a brisk linen trade.
Leinster occupies the entire S.E. of Ireland ; area, 7472 sq. m. ; popu-
lation, 1,335,966 The shores are less indented than in Ulste^ the prin-
cipal inlets being Dundalk and Dublin Bays and Wexford Haven : the
principal rivers are the Dee, Boyne, Liflfey, Slaney, and Barrow: the
basins of the Shannon and Suir also belong partiaUy to this province. By
far the largest portion is covered with mountain limestone, but there are
considerable tracts of Lower Silurian along the east coast, enclosing a huge
belt of granite, which extends in a S.W. direction from Dublin Bay to the
junction of the Barrow and Nore. Surface generally level, but one moun-
tain region in the E. and another in the W. ; soil fertile and well ctilti-
vated, and producing more wheat than any other province : possesses
superior facilities for internal communication by means of its large rivers ;
but has fewer good harbours than any of the other provinces. At the
time of the An^lo-Norman invasion the province was divided into two
Eetty sovereignties— viz., those of Leinster and Meath. Dundalk, at the
ead of a bay of same name, has various manufactures and important
fisheries. Drogheda, a flourishing town on the Boyne, and near the scene
of the celebrated battle of that name, which proved so fatal to the pre-
tensions of the Stewarts in Ireland. Trim, a small town on the Boyne :
near it Dangan, said by some to be the birthplace of the late Duxe of
Wellington. Navan, with a good export trade in a^cultuTal produce.
Dublin, the capital of Ireland and one of the finest cities of Europe, has
a quarter of a million inhabitants, and numerous magnificent public
buildings, among which is Trinity CoUege, a Protestant university
I
fmmded in 1691 by Queen Elizabeth. Adjoining tte city is Phcenii Park,
reluid. Kingstown, theport of Dnbjin, -with an B<oellent har-
bour and extensive comniBrce, is the mail-paclietstatiDti to Liveqxtal and
Holyhead. Vicklow, a. resort of Bea-bathers, exports copper-ore and
corn. Waxferd, a considerable town, with exports of cattle and dairy
produce, hsa eitensJTe nuap and dockyards. Ennlscorthj ; near it la
Vin^ar HiU, wliare the Irish rebels were defeated by Lord Lake in 1798.
New Boca, a flourishing town, with considentble eiport trade in aOTicnl-
tuial produce. KiUenny, a considerable town, the second in population
in the province ; the streets are paved with hiack marhle, which is quar-
ried in the ricinity ; here is a grauimar school, in which Swift, Congreve,
and Berkeley received the early part of their education. Uarylxmingh
consiata for the most ji:irt of miserable cabins, with a few fine houses.
TnllimDn, the principal shipping station on the Grand Canal. Birr, a
thriving town, famoua for Lord RoBse'a monster telescope, one of the
gnateat achiaveoiBnts of modem science. Xalliiigari on the Royni
Canal, is noted for its gntX cattle and wool market* AthlonB, the prin-
dpal military Btatioii in the west of Ireland, hna considerable local trade.
Longtbrd, OD the Camlin, a busy, thriving little town ; rnsar it was bom
Oliver GoldBniith in 1723. Athj, on the Bairow, has considerable trade
in com, butter, and malt. Haynooth, with a far-famed Boman Cathoho
coUege. GbtIow, with a Konian Catholic cathedral and college, has con-
nderable tmie in agricultural produce.
HuNBTEH is situated in the S.W. of Ireland, aud is the largest of the
four provinces ; ares, fll74 aq. m, ^population, 1,390,402. The coasts
an very deeply indented on the W. liy the estuary of the Shannon,
Dingle Bay, Kcmuare River, and Bantry Bay. Tlie pnncinal river-basins
are those of the Suir, which enters Waterford Harbour ; the Blackwater ;
the Lee, which enters Cork Harbour ; the Bandon, which enters Kinsale
Harbaur(allofwhicli incline 1« the S.B.); and the Shannon basin in the
*' "' "' ' " ' "* ..--■. ; mountain limestone
the S., and Upper
N.W., <mly partially in this pr
and milMoDe-crit in the W.,
Silurian in S.W. Surface highly divursified ; two rangt _.,
the southernmost of which contams the loftiest summits in the kingdom,
eitend nearly across the province from B. to W., eneloaing the basin of
the Btaclcwater : the eitensivB plain of Tipperary, Umerick, and Cork,
cempiea a large portion of the surface. Soil various, two-thirds being
arable, and a great portion under bog, which is easily reclainied. Coal
is fouDd in Tlpperary, Kerry, and Cork ; but there are few mineraU ex-
portad, thoBgrh the harbouis are eicellent. The population belongs almost
excluiiively to tbe Roman Catholic Cburch. At the time of the Anglo-
Nonnan eonquest, the province waa divided into the two petty kingdoms
of North and South Monster. Waterfijrd, a iargo and thriving city on
tL« Tight bank of the Sail, has a great foreign and coasting trade, the
eiportB alone being valued at £4,000,000 armually. Cork, built on an
island in the Lee, is the principal city in Munster, and in popnhitioa is
only exceeded by Dublia and Belfast. Cork is the seat of^oneofthe
recently erected Queen's CoU^aa. In 1888, 3630 vessels, earryine 8^,220
tons, entered and cleared. Ita manufactures are nmneroas, and sbiphnlld-
ingiaextenuvelycarriedou. QueenitowD, formerly Cot* of Coik, derived
iU present name from thevisitof Queen Victoria in ISIS :ii proUcled W
batteries and fortificalions. Kiaiale, a fashionable watering-placs, with
valnable fisheries. Toughal, on the Blackwaler, with valuable salmon-
ttlhsrica : here Sir Walter Raleigh flrat introduced tbe culture of iht
168 POLITICAL QEOGRAPUY.
potato. Fermoy, with infantry barracks and flour-mills. Tralee, near
the head of Tralee Bay, is the seat of a brisk trade in grain and flour.
Dingle, the westernmost town in the British Isles. KillBniey, on a lake
of same name, famous for its enchanting scenery, and now accessible by
rail from Dublin, is a favourite resort for tourists. EnniB, with a Gothic
abbey, which is reckoned the finest in Ireland, has quarries of fine black
marble io the neighbourhood. Clonmel, partly in Waterford, a consider^
able town with extensive manufactures, is the b. p. of Sterne, author of
' Tristram Shandy.' Cairick-on-Snir, with a bridge of twenty arches
over the river, and an export trade in com and cotton. Cashel, once tiie
capital of the kingdom of Munster, is an ancient episcopal city, with Cor-
mac's Chapel standing on the celebrated ** Rock of Cashel/' and one of tlie
most remarkable ruins in Ireland. Thnrles contains a Koman Gatholie
college and two episcopal palaces. Tipperary, on the Waterford and
Limerick Bailway, is beautuully situated, and is a well-built and thriv-
ing town. Nenagh, a thriving town, with a good local trade. Idmniek,
a large and populous city on the Shannon, at the head of its noble estuary,
is a place of great antiquity, and the fourth largest city in Ireland ; was
a royal seat of the kings of Thomond before the conquest of Ireland. At
the time of the Revolution it was the chief stronghold of the cause of
James II., but capitulated to the troops of William III. in 1691 ; has
railway communication with all parts of the kingdom, with great export
and import trade, and considerable manufactures of bcuEiutiful lace.
CoNNAUOHT, the smallest, least populous, and most westerly of the
Irish provinces, lies N. of Munster and W. of Leinster, from which it is
for the most part separated by the Shannon ; area, 6862 sq. m. ; popula-
tion, 845,993. The west side is broken up into numerous peninsulas, the
largest of which is Connemara, and is lined by a great many islands.
The principal indentations are (xalway. Clew, Blacksod, KiUala, and
Sligo Bays ; and the chief river-basins are those of the Shannon (in part),
Corrib, Moy, and Arrow. Principally mountain limestone ; but a large
tract of metsonorphic and Silurian strata in the W., and extensive patcto
of Devonian in various parts. Surface mountainous in the W., and hiUy
in the N. and S., while the centre consists of an extensive level plain.
Soil various, moderately fertile, full of peat-bogs, but nearly a ludf is
arable. Minerals and manufactures unimportant : but coal is found in
the Lough Allan district The inhabitants belong for the most part to the
native Irish or Celtic stock, retain their ancient language, adnere to the
Roman Catholic religion, and are sunk in the deepest poverty and inior-
ance. Connaught was formerly one of the kingdoms of the Irish fiep-
tarchy, and remained unconquered long after the rest of Ireland bad
yielded to the English arms. Gkdway, at the head of Gralway Bay, may
be re^rded as the capital of Connaught, it being the only important
town m the province, and the chief seaport of the west of Ireland!. It is
105 miles west from Dublin, with which it ia connected by laili^^. Gal-
way is very ancient ; was conquered by the Anglo-Normans in 1230 ; had
a flourishing trade with Spain in the middle ages, and many of the houses
are erected after the Spanish model. It is the seat of one of the Queen*t
Colleges. Tnam, an episcopal city, with a Roman Oatholic coUese,
named St Jarlath, is the see of the primate of Connaught. BalllnMloe
has a large annual fair, which lasts five days. Casflebar, a small ioUrnd
town, has some trade in linen. Ballina, with manufactures of snnf^ and
salmon-fisheries. Sligo, a considerable town on the Garvogue, has a good
colonial and foreign trade. Three ships of the Spanish Aimada were
straoded here in 1588. Garrick-on-Sluumoii, at toe oonfluenoe of tli*
Cum. — Be^uning at tLe extreme N., snd proceeding E.-ifbtiI.
tiiB jfnnciio] wpesi and headJandB are the follovring : — MbHs Head,
in Don^aX the N.-most point of tlie moiiLland ; Bangore Head and
Fmt Head, in Antrim ;* Howtli Head, in Dnblin; Witklow Head, in
Wluklow; CamHorc Point, in Werford; Cape Clear, on an island,
the moat BoDtLem point of Ireland ; Mizen Heud and Crow Head, in
Code; I>iuiniarB Head, in Kerry, tbe most weBt«rly point of the
mainland ; Kerr; Head and Loo]> Head, on idther ude of Che estnaiy
of the ShuiiioD ; Sljne Head, in Galway ; Achil Head and Ciris
Head, io Mayo ; lioaaan Point and Bloodj Foreland, in DooegaL
ltfili<hl — The islande sre in general very small, and close to the
tuunland.^- FoUowiuf; the same order as in the liiet paragr^ih. n-e
hsre: — Bathlin, S. of Antrim; Copelund, S.'E. of Diiwn; Lambay
Mnd Ireland's Eye, E. ofDnbliu; Saltee L, S. of Wexford; Core, in
Gui Harbour ; Cape Clear and Bear Is., S.W. of Coric ; Videnda:::
and Blasket Is., W. of Eerrj' ; Airan Is., in Golvruy Bav ; Garomna,
■ud aemral otbera, S. of Galwayj litnlb Botiu, liinis Turk, Clare,
and Acldl Is,, W. of Connaught ; Arranmore and Tory la, W,
of DooegaL
Bay* and E»tttartM.— These are very nnmenrai, esneciaUy in the
K. and W., wbere tbpj- penetrate far into the land. On the eoast of
Uliter tiieie inlets are termed lotighi, a vord of the same sonnd and
■ignifieation as the lochi of the opposite cnuts of Scotland. Beginning
Kt tile K.. and following the coast-line £.-wards, the GiUowmg are
tile janc^al haja, tc. : —
CbM(iifP(!«(«r.—Longh»Swrily,Fofle, Belfast. Strangford; Dnndnim
B.,GBIlingrordB. Cmul aTi^ii'uter.— Bnndalli B., Bablin B., Weiford
Hsilmiir. /hulk Cvasl nf JfunjIfT.— Waterlbrd, Dnngarvtm, Tonglial,
OlA, BSd Kinrale Harboon. Weit Coait of JUautn-. ^ fiontry B,,
Kcomure Biver, Dingle B.,Tia]ee S., EBtHorr of the Shannon. CoaH if
(haainiak.— GalwajB., CIewB.,SlackBod B.,Ei!ia!a B., Sligoa.and
XkmegarB., between Coniutnght and Ulster.
Mmmtlln 8)Vteitl.~Tbe Iritib monntains form an immense cir-
eidar rin^ along tbe ooast, enclosing the great central basin of the
This plain extends from Dublin to Galiray, and from the
' ' ' to Waterford : its highest elevation is abont
.... ^ a la™ tract of hog-land, and is traversed hy
kfew low ranges of hills. The ranges separating the central
ADt Inin thelliiUafCiDtyrs,lnBHitljin<l A
Ig tbs gplebnled GioDt'g Citti»»3i|. a baultii;
,— , J. reiemMlnga pier. TOO fMt[n length. SB* fen
■nd BO rm hi hclgbl. II I* aBpamied b; tnp-df kea Into three dirl.
ticiUstad witlL thg gniUeiit nlcatjr.
-ooke are esnnieTat«d u belonging to Irelud, ot
I ttirnilnoi ol tbe great Hobinarlne telegraph to
170 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
plain from the ocean are not continuous, but broken up into a num-
her of isolated masses, none of which attain to any great elevation —
Carran Tual, in Macgillicuddy Reeks, county Kerry, the culminating-
point of Ireland, being 8414 feet high. Beginning at the S.£. cor-
ner of Ulster, and proceeding N. and W., the following are the
principal ranges : —
Moume Mountains, in Down, between the Newry and Lagan ; highest
summits— Slieve-Donard, 2796 ; Mt Eagle, 2084 feet
Glenocum Mountains, in Antrim, separatingthe basins of the Lagan
and Bann, and extending from Belfast to Fair Head ; Mt. Trostan, 1817 ;
Mt. Devis, 1568 feet.
Camtogher Mountains, in Londonderry, between the Bann and the
Foyle ; Mt. SaweU, 2236 feet.
Mountains qf Dqiiegal, between the Foyle and the Atlantic ; Mt.
Errigal, 2466 feet ; Blue Stack, 2219 feet.
Nephin-Beg MourUaiiis, in Mayo, between the basin of the Moy and
west coast ; Mt. Nephin, 2646 feet ; Nephin-Beg, 2065 feet.
Mountains of Conneniara, south of Clew Bay, and between the basin of
the Corrib and west coast ; Muilrea, 2688 ; Croagh Patrick, 2510 ; Twelve
Pins, 2395 feet.
Mountains of Clare, between Galway Bay and Estuary of the Shannon;
Mt. Callan, SUeve-Boughty.
Mount Brandon, 3127 feet — ^the second highest mountain in Ireland—
between basin of Shannon and Diogle Bay.
MajcgUlicvddy Reeks, in Kerry, between Dingle Bay and Kenmare River;
Carran Tual, W. of Lake Eallarney — ^the highest mountain in Ireland—
8414 feet ; Mangerton, S.K of Lake Killamey, 2756 feet.
The Musketry, Bogragh, and Neagh Mountains, in Cork, between the
basins of the Blackwater and the Lee.
Mountains of Tipperary and Waierford, between the basins of the
Blackwater and the Suir ; Galteemore, 3007 ; Knockmelledown, 2598.
Blackstairs Mountains, in Wexford, between the basins of the Barrow
and the Slaney; Mt. Lelnster, 2610 feet.
Mountains of Wicklow, between the Slaney and Liffey ; Lugnaquilla,
3039; Kippure 2473 feet.
Slieve-nloom Mountains, in the interior of the Great Plain, separate
the basin of the Shannon from that of the Barrow and Suir; Mt. Keeper,
2278 feet.
The line of perennial congelation in the latitude of Carran Tual is
about 6000 feet high. Hence, if Mangerton were piled atop of the
loftiest mountain in Ireland, it would be capped with snow all the year
round,
Rlver-BaslnB.— The principal axis of Ireland extends in a K.E.
direction from Mizen Head, in Cork, to Fair Head, in Antrim. The
twelve principal river-basins are equally divided by this line, six of
them (Snannon, Corrib, Moy, Erne, Foyle, and Bann) inclining from it
in a general westerly direction towards the Atlantic, and the remain-
ing six (Boyne, Liffey, Slaney, Barrow, Blackwater, Lee) in a general
easterly direction towards the Irish Sea and the openings leacLmg
into it The twelve basins contain twenty-six out of the thirty-two
county towns, and occupy about | of the entire surfiEU^ The five
largest basins are the Shannon (area, 7000 sq. m.), Erne, Foyle,
IHELASD. 171
Bsnn, Barrow, and Sair; they contain twenty county towns and
16,300 sqnare miles, or o no -half of the entire EorfaCB.
Table of Siveo^ and Towns. — The arrangement adopted in tLo
followinjt table is the same aa in the corresponding sectioiia treating
of England and Scotland ; we begin with the river oa which the
capital stands, and proceed northwards along the coast — that heing
the direction followed in the riyer-system of Great Britain. Large
towns are printed in Roman letters, and denote here such as contain
2500 inhabitants and upwards; smalt towns, or those printed in
Italics, denote those Gaat4dning not leas than 1000 inhahitante ;
while county towns are in buall Oi.fiTAiB. Kinetj rivers are given
in the table, and of these 30 enter the ocean directly, tlie other 60
being their tributaries ; and S30 towns, only 100 of which hare a
population amounting to 2500, all the others ranging between that
unmber and 1000.
'lied to the Iridi S<
ittey II Cab- KlngstoyD.BladmKt,
jiu B., I>onnybroek. n.^ San-
Chaptlitod, Ceandae,
Kau, EiUlari, n.
B^e, I MaynOBth.
Co. or Dublin, Suordi, Rvth, Skerria.
BaBiriggan.
.BOToe, Drngheds. Navan, Tbih.
Edindfrry.
BlukwHter.INRTiii, Kelh.
HojnAlty,! Bailieoorofiffh.
^CarriokmaerMt, Kinffa-
Batint incliiut
Wlycwtla B. , BaUveailU.
I. coast, Porlrtuh.
luD, and L. Colerslne, BillrinatK}',
Meigb, n., ADtrlni, Lurgan, tL,
Portadown, Tandera-
jee, Gilford, Bim bridge.
MojdU, I ..Xaghern/elt, Knghera,.
UiiD. Sandnliloim.
ar^d,i..Biil]yinMifl.
BalUodnTT. I Coai:«lcwn.
£]ickwftter,lDDDEiDaoa, n.,.JucA-
Caltui. ..AniunH, Keufy, a.
UltttrCa- Kaitmai.1t.
Ojlfl (L tOHDOKBiaav, LtFTORD,
Uml.i BtntbMlB.
, TJe Krtowa-LliEmvadjr.
iairatFane, Sevto^n-
SUTcarl. Omr.H. Fin-
L. StranBfOrd For
It Atlanta
(wIUj, L. and BaOiineUen, LeUericn-
R.. »w.
Donegsl R & KiUybem, Dimtgal, BaU
utN, BeUurbtl, dyts,
A.naa]ef..'.V.'.CaDlekUl. n.
larrogufl and Suoo, Manor-IIamittati,
toy, .° KOfOto.Damni.
D«l, I CmifmolCita.
Cantlebir, Cibtlxbab.
Hew Bay, ....Wtatport.
V, Co. ol Gal- Ctifdtn.
lorriVfGilway G*tWiT.
Clare, I Tuam.
Robe,I ....BalUnrotw.
Cluin Athnry,
Cooter, ,..,,. Gort, Xjuoghrea, i
172
POLITICAL GEOGKAPHY.
Basins inclined to ttie Atlantic (continaed).
Riven.
Toums.
Shannon (L. KiUceCf Eilrush, Ltmer-
Allen), lUK, KUkUoe, Borriso-
eane, Portumna, Ban-
ogheTf Athlone, Cab-
B icK-on-Shannon.
Fergus, ....Ennis.
Deelfl Askeaton^ Rathkeale,
Neiocastle.
Maig & Loo-Croom, Charleville, Kil-
ba,2 mallockf Kil/innan.
Star, ....Bruff.
Kenagh, I ..Nenagh.
Lower Bros-Birr, Boscrea.
na, I
Brosna, { ..Moate, Mullingar.
Cloddagh.ZTuLLAMORE. '
Basins inclined to t?ie
Skibbereen,
Clonakilty.
Kinsale, Bandon, Dun^
manway.
Queenstown CloynCf n.,
Middleton, n., W. Pas-
sage, Cork, Macroom,
n.
Macroom.
Youghal, Cappoquin,
Lismorej Fermoy, Mal-
low, MUlstreet
TaUow.
Mitchelstown.
Doneraile, Buttevant.
Kanturk.
Dungarvan.
Tramore.
Waterford, Portlaw,n.,
Carrick-on-Suir, Clon-
MEL, Cahir, Cashel,
Thurles, Templemore,
n.
Rivers,
Towns.
Suck,
Inny, I ....
Camlin, 2...
Bodai;g, . . . .
Boyle (L.
Gara), . . . .
Feale,
Tralee Bay, . . .
Dingle Bay &
MainR,
Leane, 2 . . . .
KenmareRiv.,
Bantry Bay, . .
Ballinasloe, Boacoiofov,
Castlereagh.
BaUymahon, Oranard,
n.
Longford.
Elphin.
Carrick - CD - Shanxion,
Boyle.
Listowel, AhheyfedU.
Tralek.
Dingle, CahirciveentCas'
tlemain. Castle I.
Eillarney.
Kenmare.
Bantry.
lien
Clonakilty B.,
Bandon,
Cork H. and
R. Lee,
Siillane, I ..
Blackwater, ..
Bride,
Funeheon, I .
Awbeg, I ..
Allow, I
Dungarvan B.,
Tramore Bay,
Suir,
Irish Sea (continued).
Honor, L...Fethardt KillenatiU, n.
Tar, Clogheen.
Arra, Tipperary.
Barrow New Ross, Leighlin
Bridge. C a blow, A-
THT, Monastereven^
KUdaretH. ^PortarUng-
ton, Maryborough,
Mount Mellick.
Nore Thomastoton, Kilkkn-
NT, AbbeyleiXt Mount-
rath.
King's R., Cdllan, Urlingford,
Dinan, I ..Castle Comer.
Strad, StradbaUy.
Figale, I Monastereven.
Slaney, Wexford, Enniscortliy,
Netototon- Barry, 2w-
Um, B(ilHngla8s.
Bann, Chrey.
Avoca Arklow« Rathdrwm.
Vartry Wicklow,
Bray, Bray.
Lakes. — The Irish lakes or loughs are numerous, and some of
them extensive. Lough Neagh, in Ulster, is the largest in the
British Isles : it is 17 miles long, 10 broad, and has an area of 158
sq. miles : its waters are celebrated for their petrifying quality.
The other principal lakes are Corrib, Erne, Derg, Ree, l&sk. The
total area of all the Irish lakes is estimated at 984 sq. miles. All
the important lakes are found in the principal river-basins ennmer*
ated at p. 170. Following the order there given, we find in the
basin of the
Shannon — Loughs Derg, Ree, Boffin^ Corry, and Allen, in the line of
the main river ; Loughs Ennel and Owel on the Brosna ; L&wfkt Jkn-
veragh and Sheelin on the Inny ; and Loughs Key and Oara on the Bofle.
Comb—Lottghs Corrih and M<uh, VLoy- '-Loughs Conn and CWIAk Am-
--Loughs Erne, OughCer, and Oounagk, Foyle — Lough Dtrg, jMynt^"*^
St Patrlcfa Pargtttory on an i.iUnd. Banii— IohjA iV&i.-jfc, I ,,
UnitBiI Kingdom. Bovne — IjOugA Ramor. Dinglo iinil Main Basin-
LaiiM of KiUaniey,mKenv. di -i >— -■-.■^ - -- - - - ■
by the loftiest moiu '
0 the absence o
. liny deep indentations of the
coaat, Ireland possosaes great natnral facilities for carrying an her
internal commuDicatiou ; lint until recently, little haa been done in
opening up the connfry hy thu oonstractlDO of the highways nf
Railways.— In January 1S7I there were 1972 miles opea for traffic,
which cost ^24,891,000 ; and tlie toUl receipts for paiuengnrB and gooiiii
for the year then ending were £1,5(10,000, The railway system ia still
tfar from bemg complete. Dublin is the eentro of the greater part of
Nateoaelk Biyubs, — The Shannon is navigable from the aea to L.
Allen, a distance of 2U miles; the Bandon, IS; the BUcknater to
Fermoy; the 8uir to Clonmel, 40; the Barrow lo Athy, 60; the
Sore to Thomaatown, 28 ; tho Slaney to Enniscorthy, 15 ; the Boyne to
Navan, 26; the Lagan to Liabum; the Bann to Coleraine, 5; the Foyle
to Btrabane, 20 ; Eme to Ballyshannon, G.
CiKALB.— The mileage of canal amounts to 357 miles. The Grand
Cajial, irom Dublin to Banagher on the Shannon, connects the Irish Sea
with the Atlantic, 184 miles. Royal Canal, from Dublin to a point in
the Shannon a little aboTe Lough Bea, 92 miles. Uevrry Canal unites
the rJTer Newry with the Upper Bauu, thua connecting Carlingford Bay
with Lough Xeagh, 12 miles. Lagan Canal, from Belfast to Lough
Neagh, 20 miles. UlaterCanal, from Charlemont on the Blackwater, n.
feeder of the Upper Bann, to Lough Erne, by Monaghan and Clones, 46
miles. Boyne Canal, from Drogheda to Navan, 25 miles.
ElSCTBlO TbleqeaPH.— four lines of submarine telegraph connect
Ireland with Great Britain (Holyhead to Dublin ; Milford Haven ta
Wexford; Stranraer to CarriokferguB; PortpntricktoDonaghadee). Elec-
tric wires are also laid in connection with all the principal railway lines.
In 1858 the first submarine telegraph, connectmg the Old World with the
Hew, was completed. Tlie eastern terminus of the telegraph is in Valentia
Harbour, county Kerry, and the western at Heart's Content, Trinity Bay,
Newfoundland. It continued in working order, however, for only a few
monthfi, and ia now ahandoned. Another cable, between the same ter-
mini, was laid in 1805, and a third in 18S6, b^th of which are nan in
■xcellent order.
Kation»l Cliaracter.— The native Irish belong to the Celtic race,
•nd are characterised by all the peculiarities which distiagniBh
It ftom the other branches of the Caucasian family, some of which
tbey exhibit in an extreme degree. They are remarkable for quick-
aeBS and intelligence, hut the brilliancy of theic imagination and
Quit nnriTalled wit are more striking than their depth of thought
or power of patient investisation. Their wit ui so peculiar and
fi gaierit, that it ia quite mimitahle by aU save the natives of the
asrald Isle. They are aingnlarly warm-hearted and hospitable,
i, when well educateJ and reiined, form the most sgreeahle aaao-
\
174 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
ciatcs. Their prevailing vices are rashness, improvidence,, and
a disposition to riotous excitement ; and, when nnder the influence
of spirituous liquors, they are frequently regardless of human, life.
They have always manifested a strong aversion to English rule, end
have had too many causes for evincing a spirit of insubordination :
hut a better day is beginning to dawn over this unfortunate though
beautiful country.
Literature. — Ireland cuuld boast of a written literature long before
the sister island. Kot a few Irish MSS. still extant are supposed to
have been written as early as the sixth century. The famous Psalter
of Cashel, though not compiled till the ninth century, contains
many compositions of a much older date ; and the same remark holds
true in regard to the valuable collection of ancient Irish records
made by Tighemach and other annalists in the eleventh and twelfth
centuries. These were printed and published by the Rev. Charles
O'Connor in 1814-26, both in the original and with a Latin transla-
tion. The largest known collections of Irish MSS. are those in the
library of Trinity College, Dublin, and those formerly in that of the
Duke of Buckingham, at Stowe. Of the few works that have ap-
peared in Irish, in recent times, are Eeating's ' Chronological His-
tory of Ireland,' and the translation of the Bible, executed in 1681.
As the Irish language was rarely studied by scholars of other coun-
tries, learned Irishmen generally wrote in the Latin tongue in early
times, and in English at a subsequent period. Among the latter
may be mentioned the following: — Poetry* Dean Swift, Oliver
Goldsmith, J. Barry, Wolfe, Moore. History: Keating, Leland,
O'Hallaran. Mental and Moral Science : Bp. Berkeley, Hut-
cheson. Theology : Archbp. Usher, Dr Adam Clarke, W. B. Kir-
wan, Archbp. Magee. ^Natural Science : Sir Hans Sloane, Sir
W. R. Hamilton, R. Kirwan, Goldsmith, Sir D. Barry, R. Murphy,
Lord Rosse. Orators and Statesmen: Canning, Sheridan,
Burke, Grattan, Curran, Daniel O'Connel, Lord Macartney, Lord
Plunket Novelists and Dramatists : Sir K Steele, Sterne,
O'Hara, Griffin, Arthur Murphy, O'Keeffe, Carleton, Knowles, Lever.
Fine Arts : Lover, M. Kelly, Sir J. A. Stevenson. Tsayblb : R.
O'Hara, Burke, Maclure, M'Clintock. Miscellaneous : S. Baunj,
M alone, K Quin, Maginn, J. W. Croker, J C. Croker.
/
V.
SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.
Position and Bonndaries. — Spain and | Portngal, other-
wise called the Iberian or Spanish PeninsulL occnpieB the ex-
treme S.W. comer of Europe. It is bonnaed on the N. hj
the Pyrenees and the Bay of Biscay, whiom sepaiate it fuaa
SPAIN AND rORTL-GAL, 175
. France ; on the W, liy the Atlajitio ; iind on the S. and E.
I partly by the Atlantic and paatly Ly the Mediterranean and
' Strait of Gibraltar, which sepatate jt from Africa. The Pen-
' insula liea between the parallels of 36° 1' and 43° 45' N.,
and between the meridjana of 9° 32' W. and 3° 20' E. ; Urns
occupying 7|° of latitude and nearly 13° of loncitude. iladrid,
near the centre of the Peiiinsulo, is nearly on tua same pu'ftllel
OB Naples, Bokhara, Pekin, Great Salt-Lake City, and New
York, and nearly on the eanie meridian as Edinburgh, Exeter,
L'Oiient^ Ivory Coast, and St Helena.
I Form, Oosut-Une, and Extreme Points. — Except for a. consider-
\ able prolonBation in the extreme N.E., the form of tha Peninsula is
Dearly a s<iuare, whose longest dia^nal, from Cape St Vincent to
Capo CreuBe, measures 6S0 miles ; sud the nhorleBt, irom Cape Orte-
ga! to Cape de Gata, 625 miles. Tlie extreme points are — Cape Boca,
near Lisbon, the most westerly point of the continent, and Tarifa
Point, near Gibraltar, the most southerly ; Cape Ortegal in Galicia
and Cape Creusa iu Catalonia are the extreme N. and B. points.
Surrounded by the ocean on all sides except the N.K, the sea-margin
is necessarily targe ; but the ocean nowhere penetrates the land very
deeply, and there ai-e extensive tracts in the interior at a great dis-
tance from the sea. The entire coast-line is estimated at 2300 miles,
of which ISOO belong to Spain and 600 to Portngal ; being 1 mile of
I coast to each 98 miles of surface — a ratio preatly inferior to that of
I the other European peninsulas, all of which are deeply indented hy
Area and Population. —The area of the Penmsula alone is S27,420
m. miles, or considerably more than the area of France ; 190,93S
I belong to Spsin, and 30,181 to Portugal Including ths
Eoicacd Canary Isles, the area of Spain is 195,S14sr^. miles j and
Blat of Portugal, including the A:!OTes and Madeira, 37,B6S sq. miles.
Hanas the area of Spain and FortuRal, including the isisuds, is
nearly double that of the Brit. Isles. In May 1867 the total populv
tion of Spain amounted to 16,641,080, of which half a million be-
longed to the islands. The population of Portugal, in 1868, amounted
to.^3B0,974i of which 366,000 belonged to Madeira and the Azores.
Eence the entire population of the Peninsula with its islands does
not nearly equal the population of England and Wales in 1S7 1 , though
the area la lout times greater. In ttiB beginning of the fourteenth
century the population of the Peninsula was greatly denser than
at present, that of Spain alone having been eatimatcil at nearly
S.O00, 000 ; but in the four subsequent centuries it doclinsd to little
re than 5,000,000. It is now af^in advancing, though very slowly.
the first half of the present century it increased about 40 per
i, the population of 1S03 haring been estimated at 10,361,000.
imerons wara in which Spain has been engaged, the loss of her
» and commerce, the want of water in the interior, the indo.
BDCB of the inhahitimts, and, above all, the blighting agency of her
176
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
religion, account in a great measure for the stationary and frequently
retrograde condition of the population. The population of Portu-
gal has increased considerably during the century.
Political Divisions. — Previously to 1833, Spain was divided into
fifteen, or, including Granada, into sixteen provinces, many of which
were called kingdoms. These were then subdivided into forty-nine
new provinces (including the Balearic Isles and the Canaries), which,
in general, bear the names of their respective capitals. The three
Basque provinces, however, and Navarra, retain tneir former names.
The following is a list of the old provinces, with their capitals, show-
ing the new provinces into which they have been partitioned : —
01(1 Provinces.
Capitals.
New Provinces.
Guipuzcoa
Tolosa
Guipuzcoa.
Biscaya
Bilbao
Biscaya.
Alava
Vitoria
Alava.
Asturiaa
Oviedo
Oviedo.
Galicia <
Santiago de )
Compostella j
Lugo, Corufia, Pontevedra, Orense.
Leon
Leon
Leon, Zamora, Salamanca.
Estremadura
Badajos
Caceres, Badajos.
Andalucia
Seville
Sevilla, Cordova, Jaen, Huelva, Cadiz.
Granada
Granada
Granada, Almeira, Malaga.
Murcia
Murcia
Murcia, Albacete.
Valencia
Valencia
Alicante, Valencia, Castellon-de-la-
Plana.
Catalonia
Barcelona
Tarragona, Barcelona, Gerona, Lenda.
Aragon
Zaragoza
Huesca, Zaragoza, TerueL
Navarra
Pamplona
Navarra.
Old Castile
Burgos
Santander, Logrono, Burgos, Palencia,
Valladolid, Soria, S^ovia, Avila.
New Castile )
&LaMancha j
Madrid <
Madrid, Guadalaxara, Cnenca, Toledo,
CiudadReaL
The forty-seven continental provinces are most conveniently ar-
ranged as follows : —
•
Seven north-western provinces, fronting the Bay of Biscay. Seven
western, embracing Leon, Estremadura, and part of Gkdicia. Bight
southern, embracing Ajidalucia and Granada. Seven eastarn, oom-
prising Murcia, Valencia, and a part of Catalonia. Six norUi-eaatem,
containing the remainder of Catalonia, Aragon, and Navarra. Twdvo
central, embracing Old and New Castile, witi^ La IfimffJi*- In fha
following lists, towns of above 10,000 inhabitanti an nat In Ingl
type, and those ranging between 10,000 and 6000 in nnuL
BPAIN AND PORTUGAL,
SjiVBN North-Westben pROYiyCES.
OnlpnMoa.* — Tolosa E (Orria), San Sabastiaoi 19 (Ummea).
Towns between 5000 and 10,000 iaiiabitaata. Fuenterrsbia.
■Bilbao 25 {Nervion),
AtaTa,— VlTOKlA Ifi (ZadoiTii, afi. of tlie Ebro),
Baatsader.— Santandeh 30 (Miem).
OrteAo.— Otiedo 23 (NaloD), Gyon 7, Aviles 6 fS". coast).
Lugo. — Lroo 7 (Minho), Mondonedo 6 (Masma).
CoRciJA 30 (Mero), Feirol 17 (W. coast), Tadron B, San-
Uago de Compostella 27 u. (Ulla).
SEI'EN "W"ESTI!R(T PROVIKCRB,
PonteTeiia.— PoKTEiTUDBA 5 (Lerey), Vigo 8 (Kia de Vigo).
0r9ii8e.—0 HESSE S (Minho).
Leos 6 (BornesgH).
Zemon.— Zauora 10, Toro 8 (Donro), Benavente 12 (Esla).
i. — Salamanca 16 (Tonnes), Oiadad Rodrigo 5 (Agueda).
■Caceres 12 (Caceres).
GaiTobillas, Flacentia, Trujillo, Montanches, Akantara.
I. — Badajos 23, OlivencB 10, Don Benito 15, Villajiu«-a
10 (Gnadiana).
Xares de Iob Caballeroa, Albuqnenjne, Villafranca, Llerena, Cabcza de!
:j-, Castusra, Fr^enal de la Sierra.
EiOHT Sqvthbbn Peotiscbs.
SeTDla. — Sbtilla 82 (Guadalquivii'), Utrera 13n.(Salado), Moron
•X,
s pravinnes or Spain, d,
btforeSjO, n, l,r = K'iByo; but g before e.i, <i, like onr ft, very stningW
uplnlad, u Genii (llenU) ; In tbe nf UaUet ffui. pui, the g la hard, Uiough
fclnlrtaTls silent :'i«Hii
■ligbt and acmewhat
ianan, Frer
= &ig!lih i
in Die Buibdi ud German, nr i
ucar, wtlb the h vaj Birong.
Ingliab inlifonL' tliua Llobrogat, Lien
, or Eaglleb ni la Suaniari] : as CaruBa War- '
io Ouii3«l5urtit (fiuQ-Jnl-Wrtr^
[dole uf wurds have a itroag roUlng louni
w 1[fce EDgtlnh I.
gwa (rAa-TTi-jo'tto).
Roada. Zadc
^BBgUlhliDi
a H&i thin': '
del. alio u-tfled DayiBlel [pftkUta c
178 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
de la Frontera 13 (Guadairo), Carmona 15, Marcliena 13 (Carboncs),
Osona 17 n. (Madre Vieja), Ecija 24 (GenU or Xenil).
Lebrija, Ck}nstaiitma; Cazsdla, Alcala, Fuentes-de-la-Campana, Estepa.
Cordova. — Cordova 36, Montoro 11 (Guadalquivir), Montilla 13 n.,
Cabra 12, Lucena 17 n. (Cabra), Baena 13 n. (Guadajos), Priego 14
(Salado, affl. Genii).
Palma, Bujalance, Rambla, Villanueva, Hlnojosa, Pozoblanco, Castro
del Real, Espeja, Feman Nufiez, Puente-GenlL
JaexL — Jaen 23 (Jaen, affl. Guadalquivir), Baeza 11, Andujar 10,
Ubeda 14 (Guadalquivir), Alcala la Keal 12 (Guadajos), Martos 11
(Salado).
Cazorla, Linares, Alcandete, Torre Don-Gimeno, Porcunna.
HuelvaK — Htjelva 7 (Odiel).
Valverde, Moguer, Palos, Ayamonte.
Cadiz.— Cadiz 62, San Fernando 10 (Isle of Leon), San Lucar 16
(Guadalquivir), Puerto S. Maria 18, Xeres de la Frontera 89, Arcos
11 (Gaudalete), Chiclana 21, Medina-Sidonia 11 (Lerio), A^geciras
11 (Strait of Gibraltar).
Bota, Olvera, Ubrique, Vejer de la Frontera, Alcala de los Grazules,
Tarifa, San Roqiie, Gimena, Grazalema.
Malaga. — Malaga 93, Antequera 17 (Guadaljorce), Yelez Malaga
16 (Velez), Ronda 16 (Guadiaro).
Estepona, Marbella, Archidona, Alora, Alliaurin,Coin, Monda,Colm6nar.
Granada. — Granada 62, Loja 15 (Genii), Motril 12 (Guadalfeo),
Baza 11 n. (Barbata, affl. Guadalquivir).
Montefrio, Alhama, Almufiecar, Adra, Hnescar, iSiebla.
Almeria. — Almeria 29 (Almeria), Cueva de Vera 10, Hnercabvert
12 (Almanzora), Velez Rubio 12 (Velez), Berja 10 (Adra).
Nyar, Gergal, Dallas, Mojacar, Vera, Seron, Velez Blanco, Oria.
Seven Eastern Provinces.
Miirda.— MuRciA 88, Cieza 10 (Segura), Lorca 40 (SangonenOj
Caravaca 10, Cebigan 10 (Caravaca), Cartagena 22 (S. coast).
Yecla, Jumilla, Mula, Calasparra, Alhama, Fnente, Alamo, TotMUy
Almazarron, Bullas, Moratello.
Albacete. — ^Albacete 11 n.. Chinchilla 12 n. (Guadamiiiui, ogL
Guadalquivir), Hellin 10 (Mundo), Peiias de San Pedro 10 {HadanJ^T
Alcaraz, Bonillo, Almanza, Tarazona, Tobarra, Candete, Yerte.
Alicante.>-ALTCANTE 31 (K coast), Orihuela 18 (Seffon.). EUu 18
(Elche), Alcoy 27 (Alcoy).
Villajoyosa, Aspe, Novela, Monovar, Villena, Gandiay
Crevillente.
Valencia. — Valencia 87 (Guadalaviar), Aldn IS
Felipe de Xativa 13 (Albayda).
Llria, Cnllera, Sueca, Ayora, Carcajente^ Ontenknl^
viedro, Torrente.
Castellon-de-la-Plana. — CA8TELL02f-DB-L4-Ft>
Vinaros 11 (Cenia).
Segorbe, Villa-Real, Alcore, Benicarlo, Boxrin
SPAIN- AND hOSTUGAL.
-Tahhagosa 13, Ecu
, Vails 11 (Francoli),
I
I
Tutasa, VUlftfrBnca, Cerrera.
Sh Nobth-Eastbrn Provincih.
Garona.— Gerona 8 <Ter), Olot 12 (Flnvia).
Blanes, S. Felin do Gnisols, FiguersB.
Lertda.— LEKniA 17 (Segre).
Bnetoa. — Hubsca 9 (lauela), Fraga G, Barbaatro 6 (Cinca).
ZaraKDxa. — Zaracoza 56 (Ebro).
Caape, Tuazona, Calataynd.
TemSL — TERtTEL 7 (GuadakTisr), AleaBk 6 (Gaudalape).
HaTaiT&. — Pamplona 23 jAgia).
TudsU, Estella, Sanguesa.
Twelve Central Protinces.
BuigOB.— Buitoos 26 (Arlanzon, n^. Douro).
Xognma. — LooroSo 7, Calahorra 6, Haro li (Ebro).
Pftlouda. — Falehcia 11 (Carrion, o^. Pisuerga).
ViLlladOUil — Vallaholid 40 (Pisuerga),
Medina deKio Sato.
Borta.— SoRiA 3 (Donro).
BegoTla.— SEaovTA 13 (Erearaa, agl. Dquto).
Avlla. — AviLA G (Ad^a, aJL Donro).
Haibld. — MAMtis 333 (Manzanares).
AlcaU, CliinctioD, Colmeoar.
Onadalaxara.— GuADALAXAiiA 5, Sigiii>nza G (HenareB).
Cnenca Cvekca6 (Xacar), Beqneiia 11, Utiel S (Magro).
Kfledo.— ToLEEO 15 (Tagua).
Talaveni, Madridejos, Quintaiiar, OcaOa.
Ctndoa BeaL— CiUDAS Real 8 n. i^Guadiaiia), Alraagro IS i
'aldepenoa 10 {Jabalouj, Daiuiiel 12 (Azur).
Maiuanarea, Solana, Almodovar, Alcazar, Ugreuua, Almml^Tii
Two i.\s
< i'i..
—Palm
Ilahoii 13, Ciuiindeh
CuuTlas.— Sakta { ' I
IS Folmaa 13 (Grand '
I, PoKTCOAii formei ; ■
aces ^besides tlii- /> '
r 1 (MbJotm), Port.
H 8 (Iiknii IVmrrrllTe),
180 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
are subdivided for administrative purposes into twenty-six
comarcas or shires.
Mlnho.*— Braga 20 (Ria d'Este).
Viana, Guimaraens^ Prado.
Tras-OB-Montes. — Braoanca 5 (Sabor).
Douro or Maritime Belra. — Oporto 89 (Douro), Coimbra 18 (Mon-
dego), Ovar 10 (Vonga).
Aveiro, Mira, Figuera.
Upper Belra.— ViSKTJ 9 (Vouga), Lamego 9 n. (Douro), Almeida 7
(Coa).
Lower Belra. — Castello Branco 6 (Yereza), Covilha 5 (Zezerc)
Bstremadura.— Lisbon 224 (Tagus), Setubal 13 (Sadao).
Abrantes, Torres- Vedras, Cezimbra, Vimeira.
Alemtejo.— EvoRA 13 (Xarama), Elvas 11 (Guadiana).
Portalegre, Castello de Vide, Estremoz, Beja, Serpa.
Algarve. — Faro 8, Lagos 7, Loul^ 8 n., Tavira 11 (S. co.)
Azores. — ^An6Ra12 (Terceira), Ponta Delgadal6 (San Miguel).
Madeiras.— FuNCHAL 18 (Madeira), Porto Santo 6 (Porto Santo).
Descrlptlye Notes. — Spain, including the islands, contains only
two cities of above 100,000 inhabitants — ^viz., Madrid and Barce>
lona; seven above 50,000 — viz., Malaga* Valencia, Seville, Mnr-
cia, Cadiz, Zaragosa, Granada; and nineteen between 20,000
and 50,000. The southern provinces (Andalucia and Granada) are
by far the most densely peopled portions of the kingdom, and con-
tain a full half of the total number of towns ; the twelve central
provinces are very thinly peopled, while the western and norih-
western are the least populous of all.
San Sebastian, a strongly-fortified seaport-town, and the largest in fhe
province, was taken by storm by the British from the French hi 1813^
and reduced to ashes ; but has since been rebuilt, and is now one of tbe
finest cities in Spain. Bilbao, the principal port of the north of Spain»
and the great emporium of Spanish wool for exportation. YitOTiA, cele-
brated for a great victory gained by the Duke of Wellingtm over the
* The Portuguese vowels a, e, i, o, u, y, and the diphthongs at, tm, mL 9LwaA
ey, have essentially the same sound as m Spanish ; but oo is ntmi, as m Kmso
(MareormaTU while the combinations ei and oi are not diphtluKQgi : ai Beln»
Coimbra cJ5e'i-ra, Co-im'hra).
c has a hard and soft sound as in English, but has the MiUia mora tnqpaOj
than in Spanish.
ch and « = cA in French or sh in English : thoa^ Ohavea^ Vundialp ZSm
(SMves^ Fung'aial, Sha'res).
g before e, i, and y, and j, have the same sound as In Fcenoli ; aa CiMsi toi
Geres, Alemt^o (Ccudat-do-ZMru, Al tmg toWe]
ttisMfln
/tis always silent, but when it follows lor »
thus, Covilha, Minho {Co-vOrva, UiiCyo\
m and n are frequently nasaL and aimilar to tibat dtm : M A^*
U'tho).
gu and qu are sounded like our a hard and L tt'
diana, Ourique {Ga-di^na, Oo-iwliqyX
':!-i
I
i PORTUCAI,. ISl
Frenuli in 1313. Bantander was sacked by t!ifl French In 1803 : It Las
productivB Iron-minea in the yiciiiity. Orifldo, notod for its hot mineral
apringi and bathR. Conma, a flonrishing commercial and fDrtified town,
witha fine harbour. It was from thia port the Spanish Annada set Bail
for the conquest of England in 1638 ; and near this, oh Uib heights of
Elvina, the French were defeated by the trnopa under Sir Jehu Moore,
who fell in tbe hour of riotoiy, JannBrf 1809. Ferrol, one of the threo
principal araenala of Spain, U strongly fortilied. Bantlago do CompOE-
talla, with B imiveisity, and a magnificent cathedral dedicated to St
Jameithe Elder, the patron saint of Spain. Zamora, with manufactures
of coarse woollen hata, leather, and gunpowder. Salamuica, with an
aneient and famous univeisjty, formerly the principal seat of learning in
Spain, but now greatly decayed ; liero tbp French were defeated by Wel-
lington in 1812. Badsjos.aBtrongly-fortiBed city on tho Gusdiana, te-
peatcdly taken and ntaken in the Feninaular war, is the birthplace of
the painter M orales. Seville or SevillEi, one of the most ancient tovraa
in Europe, the capital of Spain under the Gothic dynasty, and afterwards
of Andnlncia, was long tho chief residence of the Spanish roonsrehs; has
s fine cathedral, and one of the principal universitiea of Spain : it baa tba
largest cigar and tobacco monufactocy in Europe, employing 3O0O persona.
CordOTa,oncB the capital of tho Caliphate of the West, and afterwards of
the kingdom of Cordova. In modem times thia city was noted for its
mannfftotnre of a sort of leather, called cordKain or cordoron, which has
now declined. Codil, a lai-ge fortified city on the Isla of Leon, the prin-
dpal commercial city in the kingdom, and the centre of the trade in sherry
WuiB. Xsrw do la Frontara, e>;teuaively engaged in the manufactura
of wine, and giving its name iiieny)to one variety. Malafa ia the chief
port of the province, and l^ely engaged in eiiportiug wiues, raisins,
almonda, and other fruits. The Malaga raisins, called rauacatBla, fetch
a greatly higher price than any other deacription. Granada, in a plain
renowsed for its beauty and fertility, was tlie capital of the laat Moorish
Idngdora in Spain ; the palace of the fcing.i, the famous Alhambra, a
coble specimen of Moorisn architecture, is still standing. Unicla, with
goremment factories of nitre and gunpowder, and a richly-decorated
lythedral. Lorea, a busy tluivingtown, with manufactoriea of saltphBtre,
atienal of Spain. Valencia, a
with a flounshing university. Is ^ ,
Tortosa, a strongly-fortified city on the Ebro, with an active fishery iTi
sturgeons and lamproys. Su-eelona, the former capital of Catalonia, and
the second city in Spam in point of population, is strongly fortified, has
a university and four public libiuriea, one of which is celebrated as con-
taining many valuable MSS. Barcelona ia laigely engaged in trade and
- mnfactnles, and has for ages been a place of great importance. Zara-
SE at SuMfona (Oesaiea Augusta), an ancient and populous city on
■"oro, and the only place of importance in the nortb-eoatem provinces,
wu me capital of the old kingdom of Aiagon ; it contains a, university ;
and its oatheial is cdebratod over Spain for its aanctuoiy, which attracts
' - "t heroic daienco against the
„ of the principal fortrojaes ol
1^ thsBtitiah iu 1813. Bnrgoa, tha
"^ chiefly celebrated for its catbedrr '
, Tulftdolld, formerly a place
atit contains a celebrated uoir
uleEb;
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
I
182
sity ; hero Columbus died in 1B06. Segovia, noUil (or its maguificent
Raniaa aqnedact of 161 archea, and Dnmeroiu other remuaa of ita formor
grandeur. Madrid, the capital of Spain, occupies an elevated cite in the
centro of s barren plain, 2200 feet ahove the level of tlie sea, and farftoia
any navigable river. It is anhjecl to great ineqiialitiea of tempeTatnre,
and in reckoned very unhealthy. It ie about eight milea in circuit ; tho
modem ^rt of the city ia handsome, but the numoer of convents and
other religiona honsea, with grated windows and without visible doora,
S'vea the streets a sombre asneet. Madrid ia tho birthplace of Alonzo
1 Ercilla, Lopu de Vegs, Calderon de la Barca, NnGez, and the brothera
Velaaqnez. Toledo waa the capital of Spain under the Goths, at which
time it had 200,000 inhabitanta, though now it has but 13,000. Ithaa
ioug been famona for the manufacture of sword-blades, and great skill ia
atill shown in teraperiog them. Almnden. ; near it are valuable ^nicli-
silver-mines, the most ancient in the world. Palma, a fortified city on
the S.W. coast of Majorca, haa in its vicinity a huRB palace, formerly
occupied by the Spanish Inquisition. Fort Uahon, also a fortilieil tonn,
capital of Minorca, and the residence of the military ^ovamor. SantB-
Croi, capital of the Canary Islands, in the island Teneriffe, has an export
trade in vine. Las Palmas, the principal tomi in the same group, InB a ■
population of 13,000.
Towns m PoRlnoAii. — Portugal, including the islands, con-
taina only two towna above 60,000 inhabitants — Lisbon and
Oporto ; one at 20,000— Braga ; and eleven between 10,OIX) and
20,00(1.
tho present royal family, has manufactures of velvets and other silk
fabrics. Chaves, a fortified town, with hot saline springs of 129' Fair.
Oporto, or Porto, » largo oonuneteial city at the mouth of tho Douro ; in
popnhition and commercial importance it ranks nert to Lisbon, which it
excels in the amount and variety of Ha manufactures. It exports im-
mense quantities of port wine, and has estensive silk-factories, and some
of linen and cotton goods. Coimbra, on the Monde^o, ia the seat of the
sole university in the kingdom. Coimbra is one of the rainiest localitlea
in Europe— 118 inches of rain fallsunnaUy. Lisbon, the capital of Portu-
gal, on the right bank of the Tagus near its maath, with about a
qnarter of a million inhabitants. It contains many splendid architectu-
ral monnmenta, especially tlie palaces ofthenobility, and the magnificent
aqnedact of Alcantara, with thirty-aii arches of white marble. Ths
streets, however, are narrow, winding, and dirty. There are few Impor-
tant manufactures, except of jeweUeiT and trinketa ; and its commerce,
which was once conaiderable, has greatly declined since the Portuguese
colonies became independent. Usbon waa the birthplace of Camoena,
TDlreB-VedTOSi celebrated in tho Peninsular war for the lines of defence
constructed by Wellington in 1810 to obstruct the approach of tho
French. Vimeira, where the Dnke of Wellingtoa defeated the French lu
180S. Zvora, an ancient city of Roman ori^m, with manufactures of
hardware and leather. Elvas, a fortified frontier city on the right bank
of tho Guadiana, with a college and s Moorish aqueduct. Faro exporti
fresh and dried fruits, wine, cork, sumach, and anchovies. Angra, a for-
tified seaport, and capital of the Azores, Hith a military college and other
educational satablishmetits. Fonts, Delgada is the principal towD in the
I
I
I
Azores with regard to population and commercB, Punclial, the capital
of the ialand Uodeiia, ig engaged in the manufacture and Bipartation ot
Madeira vine.
Capet.— /n Spam .- Cape Pinistcrre, in Galicia, the most western
point of Spain; Ortegal, in the Bame province, the most northern
point of Spain ; Creni, in Catalonia, the moat eastern ; St Martin,
In Valencia ; Falos, in Murcia ; Gala, in Granada ; Eurapa Point
near Oibrsltar ; Tarifa Point, the mast soathern point of the conti-
nent of Europe ; Trafal|;ar, W. of Andalncia, off which Lord Kelson
ilefuated the uimbined French and Spanish fleets, in ISOfl. /n Por-
tagal: Cape Santa Haria, the soutnenimoat point of Portugal; St
Vincent, S.W. of Atearve, off which Sir Joiin Jerria signally de-
feated tlie Spanish fleet, in 1797 ; Espichel and Roca gnard the
entrance of me Tagua : the latter is the most western point of the
continent of Europe.
of the province Cadiz; Canary IslandSjf 60 miles S.W. of Mar-
ooco — the principal are Lazarote, Fuerte Ventura, Grand Canarj,
Teneriffe, Gomera, Palma, and Hiero. Portuguese: The Azores,!
BOO miles W. of Portagal ; principal, San Miguel, Terceira, Pico,
San Jorjte, Santa Maria. The Madeira Isles, g 6B0 miles S.W. of
Portng^, consist ot Madeira, Porto Santo, and the Desertas.
Bara and Btraitl. — Bay of Ssntander, in Santander; Rta de
Betanzos anii d'Arosa, W. of Galicia ; Bay of Cadiz, Bay and Strait
of Gibraltar, Gulf of Almeria, S. of Andalncia; Gulfs of Amposta and
Sosas. B. of Catalonia. InPortagal : Bahia d'Aveiro, W. of Donro;
estuary of the Tagns and Bay of St Ubea, in Estremadora ; Bay of
Lagos, S. of Algarve.
Snrtaco and Mountains. — The Iberian Peninsnla — the most west-
erly of the three grand peninsnlas of Southern Europe — in its general
cbaracteristicB more closely resenibics Africa than it does the rest of
Europe, For the moat pait it consists of a lofty plateau, which, in
its interior, attains to an elevation of about 2500 feet, and which is
xlcirted on all sides by a low helt of land separating it from the sur-
* la Spaniali, Baltn\
fapnMioD (IBM.) 971.
lma»; prtaalnl piodoets— oUi«a,
t Tna Cuunei ua of volcanic or.„ ^
Qm miHUiUiii*, vhich attain a ereal elcvatlaii, eapeclslly thi
(im,) 978,000, Ttae climate Is lenipcrtle uid health;, tbe
prtnalnil piodoets— oUi«a, wine, btatnly.fnilts, ralTron, Ubl
tnpfaial htat la modenled bj ths AtlinKe tireeiea : pdodpsl proancl] arsulse.
oU, £«l0| neu-^iane, ud finLta. Area, 3323 aq, m. ; pop. (in 1S04X S£0,40S.
IThaAxom, n Weitero laLoDda— in FoctBgaeae-^pirei— arenCvolcuiloariKiii,
irtth steep and rugged coaata. aboandlng with deep tavlnas aiid lofty mountaliiB.
na peak of Flea la Itlt ruthlgli. Climxte temperate aod bealihy, but subject
Hi TuflAOt earthqiulieB : prineipsl prodnals a» irizieB, all kinds ot gnln and
iDdtebacoii. A[ea,U4Taq
&^ln
184 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
rounding seas. The two loftiest mountain-ranges form, respectively,
the southern and northern boundaries of this pMean, while the three
intermediate ranges traverse it. Owing to the peculiar 8aw4»ke ap-
pearance of their summits, the different ranges are termed Herrcts.
The culminating-point of the entire Hesperian system is Cerro Mnl-
ha9en, in the Sierra Nevada, 11,663 feet, where the line of perpetuAl
congelation is 11,200 feet above the sea, while in the Pyrenees it is
only 8856 feet.
The Pyrenees, with the mountains of Asturias, which form their
western continuation, extend from Cape Creux in Catalonia to Cape
Finisterre in Galicia, and separate the basin of the Garonne, Adour,
and Bay of Biscay, from the basins of the Ebro and Douro : highest
summits^Mount Maladetta (near the centre of the Pyrenees), 11,163
feet ; Sierra Penamarella, in Leon, 10,000 feet.
Mountains of Castile^ or central chain, separating the basins of the
Douro and Tagus : Sierra Gredos, between Old Castile and Estremadura,
10,552 feet ; Sierra d'Estrella, in Beira, 7524 feet.
Mountains of Toledo, extending from Cape Espichel in Portugal to
the S. W. of Aragon, and separating the basms of the Tagus and Gua-
diana : Sierra de Guadalupe, 5115 feet.
Sierra Morena, from Cape St Vincent to Cape St Martin, and sepa-
rating the basins of the Guadiana and Guadalquivir in the W. from
those of the Xucar and Segura in the E. ; Mount Aracena, in Seville,
5550 feet ; Sierra Monchique, in Algarve, 4080 feet.
Sierra Nevada, from the Rock of Gibraltar to Cape Palos, and between
the basin of the Guadalquivir and the Mediterranean : highest summit,
Cerro Mulha^en, in Granada, 11,663 feet, forming the culminating-point
of the Peninsula.
Riyer-Basixis. — The grand line of water-parting of Europe traverses
the Peninsula from S.w. to N.E. Commencing at Tarifa Point, it
follows the crest-line of the Sierra Nevada in a» easterly direction,
then turning northward, it forms a semicircular curve, the concave
side of which is towards the Atlantic, and strikes the Pyrenees near
the source of the Ebro. It thus divides the Peninsula into two un-
equal slopes, the larger of which bends towards the Atlantic and
the smaller towards the Mediterranean. Hence, of the five principal
rivers, no fewer than four (Douro, Tagus, Guadiana, and Guadal-
quivir) find their way to the Atlantic, wnile the Ebro alone flows to
tne Mediterranean. The combined area of the former amounts to
85,000 sq. m., and embraces 25 out of the 55 provincial capitals of
Spain and Portugal ; while the Ebro drains 25,000 sq. m., and em-
braces in its basin 6 capitals.
TaUe of Biyers and Towns.— There are 815 towns in the Penin-
sula at or above 5000 inhabitants, of which 117 exceed 10,000.
These stand on 154 rivers, of which 54 enter the sea, the remaining
100 being their affluents. Th^se 315 towns are given in the follow-
ing table. The capitals of provinces are distinguished by being
printed in SMALL capitals, towns above 10,000 in Roman letters,
and the remainder in Italics.
^^^^^H SPAIN
poaTUGAi.. 1S5
^^^^^ BaHas incliwt
0 W« 4(toli^
SiiteTI. Tomis.
BldflMon. FufnUrrabia.
J(.Hri. Ton™.
TftjuDa, ....CRinran-
Saniraa, ..HADam, n.
wSftini/V.'.ilBiLBio.
Mlora. 8*»T*HDER.
ul^'' Alcala.OxiM>>uxiSi.
N.Co. Gijon, A„ilti.
ta,J
Nlloa Ov«DO,
B Hern, CohdS*.
"dora,
SaOao SetubttL
m mill, Padron. aantligo do
■ Compoatellm D.
3,CollB»W;;L™»t F.RO, Liiuli
I ias^.-ifs"-"-
Tenia, EIvds, BioAJOB,
r MinliD, OHBB»«,Lnoo.
Don Benito, ViUaDncta
■ Um... r«Bm.
ae Senna, u., ClDOAa
C»»do. JVado.
RBAL.n.
Hlmd'ai«,...BK«OA.
Odi»rca.....£^ii.
Doaro Opobto, Zauoiia, To™,
Unrtiga, i Frrgtnal it la Sierra,
SORIA.
COTBii. latnegD-
Sabor. BiuoisfA.
Matacfia], 1 Llertna.
Ccw,{ JtDMida.
Zaiii.l Vlllanoeva, Cabeza del
AgiuHta. I ..Ciudad Rodrigo.
Bw,y.
Tgmies, J.,.H.IJHAKC..
GuadBle-CMiBH-fl.
J;.li^ Benavente.
fra,i
Oai^ilii- Almaden, a.
H B<«BUl".r:-M«lina ael Rio Seco.
^^1 Ounon, ..FiLUNciA.
JabaloD, (..Almagro, n.. Val do Pb-
^^B AiluHD, Bimoos.
aaBTS^aCnBifsJ/u.
■
^B AdgJa,I....AnLX.
iTtfanlei, n.
TEJer,I...ili»i«fovnr.
^H Tanaa, Oior, Avein, Visou.
Zanian,.. ...jjoisti- de Sun Juan, n.
■ (rSilauro,..Jfi«;
^ Jlondego, iWini,CQtmbn,Cwir-
qullla,
Binndio, TBrra-Viarta.
a-ta^a.'
*» '=,s;^T,-„it
Odiel HoELVA, FalcenK.
Tin to, .. .... .,Patot, Mofiuer.
Ouad&lquivir, Labrya.S.LacardaEani-
moaa, aEvii.i.E, Cat-
■ Cohnsnar,
Diona, n„ Coedoxa.
^B ZBtuLorEr- PorloIfi^rK.
Bvjalanee, Montoro,
inW Baeia, n.
^H AlUi>tun,?9tr9nuiL
Ubeda.
^T
Salado,i....m™™,n.
^" ZB»re, Cooafco.
GQudolia, 1 Almla, Koran - do - li- _
TsTBBi, CAsn:u.a-Bniki<CD.
ntm^.....CiutHlaAiVid,.
Queana, Camtaaiina, Cazalla. M
S=vM,i J-oimeiiAi^toonWro.
Carbonon, 1 Cannona, Kurcliens. H
CH««,..Ouj«<ra.
Atop™ AleaMaTa,Btiiit.
GMjU,i Ectja, Pu™t.-0«iii, ■
J<,ne,l...Piaci«iia.
i'ji^pa, n.. Lnjm JZ-i* ■
W/™, n.,Gl^.DA. ■
Kk
■
1S6
POUTICAL GEOGRAPUY.
Basim inclined to the
Rivers. Totcn».
Cabra, ,...Ramhla, n., Montilla, n.,
Cabra, Lacena, n.
Salado, ...Priego.
Alhama, I Alhama.
Gaadiata, . . Villanueva.
Guadajos, I .Feman Nunez^ n., Es-
pejo, Castro, Baena, n.,
Alcala la Real.
Salado, I ....Porcunne^n., Torre Don^
QimenOf Martos.
Gaadannina,^2cara2r, Albacete, n.,
Chinchilla, n., Bonillo.
Guarrezas, LtJiarM.
Jaen, I Jaen. I
A tlantie (continued).
Riven. Townt.
Gandiana- Ubeda.
Minor, {
Barbata,..Baza, n., Huescar,
PuMa.
Vega, I Caxoria.
Guadalete.... Cadiz, n.. Rota, n.,
Puerto Santa Maria,
Xeres de la Fronten,
Arcos, OlvercL,
Mi^azeite, I Ubrigue.
Lirio, San Fernando, n. , Chio-
lana, Medina-Sidonia.
Barbate, V^er.
Vadalmedina,^ fca2a de log ChuuiUt.
Basins indined to the Mediterranean,
Strait of Gib- Tarifa, Algeciras, Gibral-
raltar tar, San Roqti^.
Guadiaro, Gimena^ Grazalema, n. ,
Ronda.
S. Co. Malaga, Estepona, MarbeUa.
Goadaljorce, ..Malaga, n.,^2ora, Ante-
qnera, Archidona.
Faala, A Ihaurin, Coin, Monda.
Telez, Velez Malaga, Colmenar.
S.Co. Granada,^ 2mu»ecar.
Gnadalfeo, ....MotriL
Adra, Adra, Dalian. Beija.
Almeria, Almeria, Nijar, n., Ger-
Almanzora, ...Vera, Cneva de Vera,
Seron, Huercalovera.
S. Co. Mnrcia, Almazarron, Cartagena.
S^nua, Orihnela, Murcta, Cieza,
CaZasparra, Teste.
Elche, { Elche, CrevUlente, Aspe,
Novelda, Monovar, Vil-
lena, Yecla, n., Cau-
dete.
Alfera,.. ^ Imama.
Sangonera,..MnRciA, MtUOy n., Al-
hama, n., Fuente,
A lamo, TotanOf Lorca,
Velez Blanco.
QmpeT,...Bullas.
Velez, . . . .Velez Rnbio, Oria, n.
Caravaca, . . .Caravat^ Cehigan.
Moratalla, ..MorataUa.
Mundo, I Helltn, JumiUa, n., To-
barra.
Madera, {.Penaade San Pedro, n.
E. Co. Alicante AucAirrs, Villajoyosa.
Alcoy, Oandia, Concentaina,
Alcoy.
Xncar, CtMera, Sueoa, Aldni,
Ayora, n., CuKir(A.
Magro, I.... Reqnena, Utiel
Albayda,....Xativa San Felipe, Car-
cagente, Onteniente.
Canoles, I Enguera.
Jara, 2 Taraxona.
Guadalavjar, . .Valencia, Terukl.
Palancia, Mitrviedro, Seg^nrbe.
Rio Seco, Burriana.
Mijares, CASTELLOir-DS-LA-FLAirA
Aleora, n.
Co. Castellon- Beniearlo, Vinaroi.
de-la-Plana,
Ebro, Tortoaa, Caape, 2aba-
oozA, Tuaela, Coto-
Aons, LooEBOfto, Hoiu
S^re, I Lebida.
Cinca, — Fraga, Bafitaatra.
l8aela,..Hx7XBCA.
Balira, . ...Akdobba (aq^iU of Ba-
paUIo).
Gnadalope, AUanix.
BeiganteB, JrorvOa, n.
Jalon, Cotateyud.
QneUu, ....TanoHma.
Alhama, CoreUck.
Aragon, { ...Sanguimi.
Agra,.... Pakpixika.
Ega,{ SattUa.
Zadorra, { . . . Vrobia.
Francoli, Tabbaooou, Ban. YiIIil
Foix, Vi]la-Niuiv|«r<
Llobregat,....J\» !■■■,"
Noya. IflulidBft
Betofl, 1uwow<«
Co. of Gate- lUtan. JBftHHik &
loniL diOniMiL
Ter, flsanUftn. . ^^
Fliwla, OMt , **?-
Manol, Jmmm^ ■i}Xi**->i
Lakes.— There are no lakes of any iniportm'
tngaL There is, however, a lai;^ H&-«i^
Valencia, abounding in fish and mld-Anri, '
and three snuQl la]^ in Gindad-Baa^
EPAIK AMD POKTUGAL. 187
The fint, vliidi fomui its aouTce, iB called lAke B/ml; llieii the mta
traveneB aoine miles of itt coiLrae mtder graund, and reapiieors ic two
CBamte. — The Pemnsnla bemg bo eitensTC, and there being h
erGHt difference of ele^'atiau between the interior and the nmritime
aJBtricts, grBHit diflerenoea of climate eiist. On the groat Dentral
£teatif vhich haa an average elevation of ^^00 feet, great heat and
ught preTail in aimiiner, and Bevere oold in winter. The meon
annnal iaotherm of fi(l° paasea E. acd W, throngh the centre of
the Peninsnia. At Madrid, in the centre of the Peninsula, the
meBm annual teiaperstnre is SS°.£, the mean aummer, 76°. 4, andtbe
mean winter, 43°,1. Here winter ie the Tainy season, when froataare
■erere at night, the thermometer often aishns; below 40° : while in
■ommer it not imlrequentlj rises to 90°, and the total araonnt of
umal rain do^ not exceed 10 inches. The most noxious winds are
le iSblono, a hot wind from the S., and the Oaliego, a cold, piercing:
d from tliB N.W. In the N.W., theclimate ia damp, the annual
idipitBtioD varjing from S5 to 35 imJiea ; but at BEIao, it is said
ei 100 inches. In the cestem provinces it is mBd. but van-
n the S-W., almost African ; and in the S.E. an almost per-
I Spring prevails. The thmate of PoRTtTGiL is generally
althy, eapeciiiJly in the elevated regions. Mean annnal tempeta-
TeBtLiBbon.61°.8; winter, 5S°.4; and summer, 70°.B. R^iavery
lewest coaet, eapeciallj in autumn, the tract extend-
ing tpuni Coimbra to Hafnt being the rainiest spot on the contiuent
inEnrope. Here 118 iDches of rain fall aimuiJly, Snow is rare in
Ae BonuiBni pnmnaes of the kingdom.
OaOIaEy. — The weatem half of the Peninsula, &om the Baj of
BiscBT to the Gaudalquivir, consists for the most part of Siliirian
strata, interspersed nith extensive tracts of granite, esjiecially in
the north : another belt of Snnrian rocks lines the coast from Gibrat-
tBT to Cartagena ; and a third is faund aronnd Calatyud, between
tLe Bonrcea of the Tagna and DDoro. Upper Palxozoic beds prevail
in the Pyrenees, and m a large tract S. and W, o[ Oviedo, between
the aooreeB of the Miaho and Ehro. Secondaij beds prevail along
the north coast from Cape Fefiaa to St Hebaatian ; aootlier broiu
vact extends in a S.B. direction from Buit^os to Csstelloa-de-la-
; a similar belt along the heights which divide the waters of
s Gandalqaivir from those Sowine to the Mediterranean ; and s.
— "ii alone the Atlantic, fronj Lisbon to near Ovar. Almost the
e lemamder of Spain coaaisu of teTtiair formations, little of
' " ' 1 in Pcriuyiil. =iuiiL aliiug tue south bank ot the
III itro Temnrknhie holh
. Ti-njoe!r auy iniporttiut
.■ !uOT/l.„-ai..iei The
183 POUTICAL GEOGRAPHY,
Cantabrian Mountains, and recently in Majorca, valuable deposits of
coal; tin, zinc, antimony, and arsenic, in many localities ; silver
near Guadalcanal, in Seville ; rock-salt in Cordova ; precious stones
in many places ; jasper, granite, alabaster, and beautifully variegated
marble almost everywhere ; while the quicksilver-mines of Almaden
have been long celebrated. These precious ** treasures of the low-
lying deep," however, are sadly neglected ; for in Spain all things
are in a state of utter stagnation. The minerals of Portugal are
almost as varied and valuable as those of Spain, and almost equally
neglected. The principal mineral products that are in some measure
wrought are iron, marble, and salt (from lagoons). Iron is very
abundant ; a smidi gold-mine is wrought at Setubal ; there are only
two coal-mines, one at Oporto and the other at Buarcos ; tin, lead,
and antimony are now wholly neglected.
Botany. — The indigenous ve^ijetation of Spain and Portugal belongs
exclusively to Schouw's third * * Phyto-Geographical Region," de-
scribed under " Europe " (p. 81). The number of indigenous plants
in the whole Peninsula has not been ascertained ; but Renter col-
lected 1250 species of flowering-plants in New Castile alone. Accord-
ing to Webb and Berthelot, 900 species of flowering-plants are found
in the Canary Islands. The best Duilding- timber grows on the north
coast ; the cork-tree, the Kermes oak, and the Sumach tree, farther
south. Of food-plants, the vine, olive, orange, fig, citron, date,
abound on the E. coast, together with carobs, or St John's bread,
sweet potato, the sugar-cane, and the cotton-plant, along with pome-
granates, figs, almonds, olives, in the S. ; nuts, gooseberries, and
orchard-fruits in the N. and N. W. In Portugal are found the vine,
date, olive, orange, lemon, citron, the American aloe, rice, stone-pine,
orchard-fruits, and water-melons.
Agriculture is in a very backward state in all parts of the Peninsula,
though it forms the leading occupation of the people of both countries.
The implements of husbandry are of the rudest description ; the rotation
of crops, and indeed all the modem improvements, are wholly unknown.
Though the soil in many parts is extremely fertile, especially in Portugal
and the south of Spain, only about a half of the surface is under culti-
vation. The principal objects of culture, are grain crops of all kinds (in-
duing wheat, barley, maize, and rice) ; the vine, cotton, tobacco, mul-
berry-plant, sugar-cane, hemp, and flax. The corn-crop is generally
sufficient for home consumption, and large quantities of wine and fruits
are exported, those of Xeres (sherry), Malaga, and Oporto (port wine),
being the most celebrated. The central plateau, especially in Castile and
Leon, consists of pasture-ground, where vast numbers of merino sheep
are reared for the sake of their valuable wool.
Zoology. — Of the 223 mammalia inhabiting Europe, 69 are found
in the zoological province to which Spain belongs — a province con-
terminous with the phyto-geographical region above mentioned. Of
the 490 European birds, 294 are found here ; and of. the 78 reptiles,
51 species. Of the 69 mammals, 42 species are camivora, 16 rodents,
and 9 ruminants ; while of the two remaining, one is a qxiadrumauous
animal — viz., the Barbary ape, which inhabits the rock of Gibraltar,
I
I
SPAIN AND POKTUOAL. 189
the only IcMlity in Europe wliete quadnimana nrc found ; and the
other a pachyderm— viz., the Sum icropha, or wild-boar. The wolf,
bear, chamois, and ibex, are foUDdlDthe Pyrenees; tb« marten izi Bis-
cay ; the chamelenn near Cadiz ; lynxes, foxes, wild-cats, and weasels,
in numeroiia localities. The baO^alo is the only bovine species, but
there are three species of sheep, one of which (the merino) yields a
Cb quantity of the finest wool, and is forbidden to be exported,
breed, however, is now largely reared in Saxony and other
German States. Of the numerous birds, we can only meation tlie
eagU, vulturs and flnmiuga. Fish is not plentiful In the rivers, lut
abundant on the Atlautic coasts.
EUmography. — The people of th( Pentuaula nearly all belong to the
OreRo-Latin variety of the groat Caucasian race ; but Overrun as tlie
coiuitry has been at different times by widoly-diSerent tribes, a con-
Biderable variety of race appears in the diflerent provinces. Tbe
Iberians, and afterwards the Celts, were the earliest inhabitants, and
Celtic blood still predominates both in Spain and Portugal. The
eonth of Spain was colonised by the Pheniciana and Carthaginians
in the fourth century before our era ; the Romans subdaed the whole
Feninsnla, £.Q. 2CIS ; the Vandals, Suevi, and afterwards the Visi-
Eths, overmn the country in the beginning of the fifth century; the
DOTS, or Saracens, drove the Goths to the northern mountsjns in
A.D. 714, and for seven centuries thereafter retained possession of the
centre and south, where they established several powerful kingdoms,
hut were finally eipelled in 1492 by theUliriatians, under Ferdinand
knd Isabella. Kotnithstanding this great intermixture of blood,
four distinct families are still discernible— viz., the Spaniards proper,
descended from the Celts, Phenicians, Romans, and Goths, constitut-
ing about nineteen -twentieths of the entire population ; the Basqneii,
in the north-west provinces, the descendants of the ancient Iberians ;
the Moors, in the south; and tbe Gypsies or Gitanos, probably of
Hindu origin, numbering about GO,00(i, in various locanties. The
Jewish race was totally expelled in 1492.
Languages. — Notwithstanding the great extent of the Peninanla, the
langutwes and dialects are comparatively few ; and, with the exception
of ue Baaqat, whose relations are yet unknown, belong to the Orecc-
Latin family. The Spanish and Portuguese, both of them descendants
of the ancient Galician, and for a long time mere dialects of the same
language, have at length come to differ considerably. The Spaniili
proper, or Castilian, fonnd in its greatest purity in Castile, is mani-
festly descended from the Latin, tliough with a considerable admix-
ture of Gothic, and more especially of Arabic words. So conspicu-
ous is the latter element, that some philologists reekon it as a sort of
connecting-link between the Indo-European and Semitio stocks. In
Krammatica! structure, however (the main element to he considered
in determining the affinities of a language), ss also in the great bulk
of its roots, it bears little resemblance to the Anibic or any other
Semitic tongue. In addition to the Peninsula, Spanish is spoken in
Spanish America, the Philippine Islands, and other en-itern posses-
190 POLITICAL GEOGRAPUY.
Bions of Spain. The Catalan, or Cataloniatij a mere cnieilect of the
Spanish, is spoken in the old provinces Catalonia and Valencia, and
in the Balearic Isles. The Portuffuese is spoken in Portuj^ Ma-
deira, the Azores, and Brazil. It is a twin sister of the Spanish, both
being descended from the Latin, through the Gkdician ; but it now
exhibits so many peculiarities that the difference between the two
langua^ is something more than dialectic. The Portngnese is leas
guttural, but harsher and more unpleasing in sound than the Span-
ish, and possesses a class of words which cannot be traced in the
Spanish vocabulary, and which are supposed to have proceeded from
dialects of the Berber language, which prevails in the north of Africa.
Beligion and Education. — The Roman Catholic has for ages been
almost the sole religion in either Spain or Portugal, though in the
latter country a very limited amount of toleration has been enjoyed
by the Jews and some Protestant denominations. In both countzies,
however, great changes have recently taken place in ecclesiastica]
affairs ; and since the flight of Queen Isabella, m 1868, toleration has
been freely accorded in Spain to all denominations. In both coun-
tries education is still in a lamentably deficient state, notwithstand-
ing the marked progress which has recently taken place. In 1861
there were in Spain 58 public colleges for middle-class education,
with 757 professors and 13,881 students, besides 22,060 common
schools, attended by 1,046,558 pupils, being one-fifteenth part of the
population. In Portugal education is entirely free from the control
of the Church, and yet, with the exception of Russia and the Papal
States, Portugal is the worst educated country in Europe, there
being, in the year 1862, onl^ 1 in every 36 persons able to read and
write. The sole university is that of Coimbra, while in Spain there
are no fewer than ten — the chief of which are those .of Salamanca,
Valencia, Zaragoza, and Yalladolid.
Uteratnre. — The most distinguished names in Spanish literatore
are the following: — Poetry: The author of **The Cid,"whohas
been called " The Homer of Spain : " this, the oldest poem in the
Spanish language, describes the adventures of El Seid, **the Lord"
(a famous Castilian hero, bom at Burgos in 1640), and was written
about the middle of the twelfth century ; Herrera, Ercilla, Lope de
Vega, Calderon de la Barca, Garcilasso, Gomez de Quevedo. His-
tory : Mariana, author of * The History of Spain ; ' Antonio de
Solis, the historian of * The Conquest of Mexico.* Fink Arts :
Ribera, MuriUo, Morales, Fernandez, Ribalta, Velasquez, Henrique
Marinas, Juan de Alfaro. Fiction : Cervantes, author of * Don
Quixote.' Sacred Literature: Cardinal Xiinenes, Isidore of
Seville, Michael Servetus. Maritime Travel : Columbus (a
Genoese), Pinzon, Ponce de Leon, Hernando Cortez, Pizarro, Yelas*
quez, Cordoba. The classic poets Lucan and Martial, and Seneca the
philosopher, were natives of Spain, and probablv Quintilian. Portu-
gal can boast of few names that have won for themselves a European
reputation. The most distinguished name in its literature is
Camoens, author of * The Lusiad ; ' next to Camoens may be placed
SPAIN AND POETDOAL. 191
. Oil Vicente and Sss de Miramla, the lirflmatists ; Antonio Ferreyra,
islio has been called the Portuguese Horace ; Rodrigliw Lobo ; and
JoSa de Ban-OS, an eleeant prose writer. The names of Vasco da
nama, Ma^alhaens, Balbao, Cabral, and De Solis, are all celebrated
in Potiogaeee siBritime discovety.
Aoft'onal Characia: — The Spanianla are grave, stately, and formal In
thidr mAunen ; fhigsl and temperate in diet ; extremely indolent in dls-
porition; of sn enthusiastic temperament, whith soiuelmies prompts
them to acts of chivalry, but more frequently to the piirpct ration of re-
volting ntroeities, especially when goadad on by the lova of gain or hy
religioua bigotry ; in proof Qf which we need only refer to their inhuman
treatment of the natives of America when that continent was discovered,
and to the annals of the Inquisition, an infamous inprtitution, which waa
Hist established at Seville in 1481, nt the inntaoce of Ferdinaud, the bui-
band of Isabella, and which reigned in all its teirora down to the present
contnij. " The Spanish statistics of this infernal engine," says Alllner,
"which was only abolished in 1820, include 34,811 pereonebunied alive,
18,000 bunied in effigy, and 288,109 consigned to the prisons and galleys."
The Portngneae are repreSBnted as dignihed, polite, and temperate, bnt ex-
cessively hlthy, both m their houses and persona : they are further oha-
racterised hy an mveterate dislike to Spaniards, whom, notwithstanding,
they greatly resemble in manners and disposition. They are equally
bigoted, cruel, and indolent ; equally proud and revengeful ; and equally
fond of the barbarous amusement of bull-lighting; and whatever differ-
ence there may he is ic favour of the Spaniards, there being no country
•in Gurope where ciTiliautlon and morality are at a lower ebb than In
FortngaL
aoTetnnisnt and Finance. — The Government of Spain, after three
and A half centuries of dcipotism. became, in 1S4S, a constitutional
monarchj, under Queen Isabella II., who was aided in the govem-
Toent by the Cortes, composed of two uo-operatins hodiea — vii., a
Senate (the members of which iveie partly hereditary and partly
nominated for life by the sovereign), and a Congress of Deputies
elected by the people in the proportion of one deputy for every 36,000
inhabitant*. After many years of misrule she was compolled to eva-
coale, and Amadens, son of Victor Emanual, Was elected King.
Leaving Spain in dis^st, hu was succeeded in 187£> by Alphonso XIL,
Mn of the deposed Queen Isabella. The army is formed on the French
modeL Its total strength lu 1870 consisted of 80, 000 men and oihcers.
In the same year the navy consisted of 6 ironclad frigates, 1 ship of the
line, and other 89 steam-ships (uaoless in modern warfare), carrying
106S guns, and manned by 22,000 marines. In 1871 the tevenne ol
Spain unouu ted to £27,000, 000, the expenditure toabout £32, S20,000,
and the public debt to £213,886,668. The Government of Portugal
is a constitutional monarchy, reding sovereign, Luis I., who suc-
ceeded his brother Don Pedro VTin 1861, of the Braganza-Cohurg
line. The Parliament or Cortes consists, as in Spain, of two cham-
bers— a House of Peers nominated by the sovereign, and the House
ofDepulies elected by the people. In 1SG6 the army at home and
abroad amonntml to about 8S,0D0 men and officers, and the navy te
31 ihipe of war, currying 294 gans, and manned by 2832 marines.
192 POLITICAL GEOGBAFHT.
In 1873-4 the revenae amounted to £5,147,458 ; expenditnro^
£5,423,779 ; public debt, £72,833,000.
Commezxse. — ^Though few countries in Europe possess greater com-
mercial facilities, on account of the great extent of seaboard, yet such
is the natural indolence of the Spaniards that their commerce is
quite inconsiderable ; and the little that exists can be estimated with
difficulty, owing to the universal practice of smuggling. The aver-
age value of exports for the last seven years has been £12,000,000, and
of imports £19,000,000. The principal exports consisted of wine,
silk, brandy, oil, fruits, iron, lead, mercury, salt, barilla, skins, cork,
Spanish flies, liquorice, and dye-stuffs, which were, for the most
part, sent to Great Britain and France. The countries from which
Spain receives most are France and the United Kingdom. From the
latter she received in 1873 to the value of £3,736,620; while in the
same year Spain sent to Britain to the value of £10,973,000, one
third of which consisted of wine. The chief seats of the wine manu-
facture are — Xeres (hence our sherry), Kota, near Cadiz, Montilla,
Malaga, and Alicante, the last two of which are also famed for
raisins. The province Valencia is especially famous for its great
variety of wines, large quantities of the variety known as Benicarlo
being exported to Bordeaux, where they are mixed with the wines of
the Gironde to impart to them colour and flavour. Spain is the
second silk-producing country in Europe (Italy being the first), and
her best customer in this article is France. The articles imported'
from Britain are linen-yarn and linens, iron — ^both wrought and un-
wrought — and coal. Manufactures consist chiefly of swords at Toledo,
cigars at Seville, leather at Cordova, cotton and silk stuffs in Cata-
lonia, iron in the Basque provinces, and of gunpowder, cannon, por-
celain, and glass. The commercial marine in 1872 amounted to
4326 vessels, carrying 360,000 tons. The principal ports are Bar-
celona, Cadiz, Malaga, Bilbao, Alicante, and Valencia. Since the
loss of her colonial possessions, the commerce of Portugal has vastly
decreased. Such commerce as exists is chiefly with England. Wine
is pre-eminently the product of Portugal, and constitutes more than
two-thirds of all her exports, which, in 1871, amounted to £5,250,000.
In the same year her imports amounted to £6,790,000. Besides
wine, the chief exports are fruits of the finest quality, salt, cattle,
wool, cork, olive-oil, iron and copper pyrites, and elephants' teeth.
In 1873 England imported of the red wines of Portugal 4,037,000
gallons. Next to England, Brazil, Russia, and the north of Eorope
are the principal consumers of port wine. The vine disease, which
broke out in 1853, has continued more or less ever since, and has
greatly diminished the quantity of wine exported. The imports con-
sist chiefly of corn, rice, salted provisions, sugar, and coffee from
Brazil ; cotton and woollen goods, hardware, &c, from England ;
hemp, flax, and deals from the Baltic The principal ports ara
Lisbon, Oporto, and SetubaL
Inland Oommonication. — Railway communication is proioesriiig
rapidly in Spain. The total number of miles open for truKo In 1871
FRANCE. 133
vns 3850, In rortugiil, railways hare been constrncted from LiaTion
m tbe Guadiflna, by Atrantes and Elvas ; another connects Lisbon
with. Beja ; while a third proceeds Irom the capital to Coimbra and
Oporto : 1«tal iu 1873, G30 miles.
CaTtali. — The numeroos moan tain -rangea which traverse the coun-
try, sad separate the principal river-basins, present insupei-able oh-
Btaclea to the junction of the rivers that flD<v into the Atlantio with
I
those that discharge their w
canals have been constrocted alon^
not navigable. The principal c
I the Meditflcransan i but several
the banks ofauch rivers as are
the Imperial Canal, along
e magnificeot colonies of Spain
n the N. coast of Marocco ;
the right bank of tna Bhro ; the canals of Castile, Manzanan. ,
Marcia, Albacete, and Guadarama. There are no canals in Portugal,
Imt the livers of that conntry are more navigable than those of
Hoods. — There are no good public roads in either country, eiceut
around Madrid ( wheel-carriages a™ 'in-'- n^=.i_.ti.-. .."n..>,s"i
of the transit trade Leiug ctTected O)
Forei^ PoBaeaafoiia- — Of the oi
and Portugal the following are all 1
Spaniii Ceuta, Tetuan, &c., c
nando Po and Annahona, in the G. of Guinea; Cuba, Porta Bico,
and Isle of Pines, in the W. Indies ; part of the Philippine and
Ladrone Islands, and nominally the Pelew and Caroline Islea, in
Oceania. Total area, 180,000 so. m., and population (in lB7'.i),
8,003,000.
Portaguete. — Besides the Azores and Madeira (for which sea page
183), to Portugal belong the Cape Verde Islands, portions of Seoe-
gambia, Ango&, Benguelo, and St Thomas and Prince's Islands, on
the W. coast of Africa, tc«Gther with Sofala and Mozambique on the
E. coast; Goa, SaUette, Diu, and Damauu, in Hindustan ; Macao,
in China ; parts of Timor and Solor, in Klalaysia. Total area,
1,135,000 eq, m. ; pop. (in 1874), 3,2B0,U0.
■ FRANCE.
BonndarUB. — France, one of the largest and moat important
countries of Western Europe, is bounded on its six sidoa as fol-
lowa; — N.W,, the English Channel, separating it from Great
Britain; W., the Atlantic; S.W., the Pyrenees, separating it from
Spain; S.E., the Mediterranean; K., Italy, Switzerland, and
Alsace, from which it is SBparated by the Alps, Meant Jura, and
the Voijgcs; S.E., the Oennan portion of Lorraine, and Belgium.
Ui. 42*^20'— 5r 6' N. ; Ion. 4° 4S' Vf.—T ZV E.
pltal of Indre, nilu Uie centre or the empire (lat W AD', Irm.
ij on the game pirillel u Berne, Griita, (IdesM, ABtrakliin,
194
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
I^ke Superior, and Quebec; and nearly on the same meridian as Tarmouth,
Calais, Barcelona, Algiers, and the capital of Dahomey. The form of the country
is hexagonal and very compact ; greatest length from the W. coast of Finist^re
to Nice on the Italian frontier, nearly 700 miles; extreme breadth, fh>m Givet in
Ardennes to the mouth of the Bidassao, 585 miles ; coast generally low, but bold
and irregular in the north-west, with an extreme length, including tiie larger
sinuosities, of 1500 miles. This is a small extent of seaboard for so large a coun-
try, but the numerous navigable rivers, and the canals connecting them, mak«
ample compensation for the deficiency.
Area and Population. — Omitting the three departments, Haul
Khin, Bas Ehin, and Moselle, now ceded to Grermany (and named
Elsass-Lothringen), but including Corsica, the area amounts to
201,900 sq. m., or 1§ times the size of the British Isles ; while, in
1872, the population was estimated at 86,102,921, or one-fifth more
than that of the United Kingdom, giving 178 persons to each sq.
mile. While the population of l^e British Isles has more than
doubled itself since the French Revolution, that of France has only
increased 44 per cent, and has required above a century and a half
to double itself. This remarkable fact is mainly owing to war,
political proscription, bad harvests, the grape-blight, disease of the
silk- worm, and other causes; indeed, every natural or political
calamity checks the increase of population in France in a marked
degree. The rural population is constantly decreasing, and that of
the large towns increasing. The north of France is more populous
than the south, and contams a greater number of large towns. The
most densely peopled department is that which contains the cajntaL
The three departments ceded to Germany in 1871 contained an area
of about 5580 square miles, and a population of 1,964,173.
Political Divisions. — France was formerly divided into 34 pro-
vinces ; but in 1789, when the love of change became paramount, tibie
Provinces were divided into 85 departments, or 86 including Corsica.
n 1860, three departments (Savoie, Haut Savoie, and ifice) were
ceded to France by Italy ; but in 1871 France was obliged to cede to
Germany the other three departments above named ; so that tiie num-
ber still continues to be the same as in 1789. Though the provinces
are no longer recognised in legal documents, l^ey are stm f«.f»iliMi»
among the French people, and they are so frequently referred to
in history that we think it necessary to append, at the loot, the
following table (arranged in alphabetical order), showing their former
capitals, and the departments which now correspond to them. * Tlie
♦ Old Provinces of Francv.
Old PBOvnrcBs..
Alsace
Angoumois
Aojon
Artois
Aunis
Old Capital!.
Strasbonrg
Augonldme
Angers
Anas
Bochelle
Conaqnodlng
Haut Rhfn, Bm BUn.
Charente.
Haine-flt-Loira.
EL part of Fu-da-GUiifc
N. W. of Ohuante JsoMdmr
FKiNCE. 195
' doptirtmojita si's nauKid after tlia moat importiint physical features
which respective!}' cliamcterise theui — as the exintence of a large
river, the confluence of two ritera, or iiroilmih' to eoma mountain-
chain. The departmeiita are of much more uniform dimensions than
the old provinces, or than the counties of Great Britain ; their
Bveraoe size being SlOO si^. miles, or something less than Perthshire.
But the department Gironde is larger than the largest of onr Scottish
counties (Invemesa) ; while thst of Seine, ivMeb contnina the capital,
and which is the smsllest depsjtmunt in France, is larger than Rut-
laud, the amallest county in Eugland. As the departments are aa
numerous, they must be arranged in a simple and methodical man-
ner ; and this is best done by dividing them into sii frontier groups,
corresponding with the sii sides of the kingdom, together with a
taiver centr^ gronp. Then the 85 Continental departineDtB can be
. ewily remembered as follows : — 14 nortL-westem, 10 western, 11
LxmtnGrn, 7 south - eastern, ID eastern, 9 north-eastern, and 21
«.,^^
OldCaniaii
AovergHB
ClBBnont
Puy-df-Dflme, CantaL
A^gDOQ
W. of Vsueluss.
B^Brn
Bacgu PytSnSta.
Bqoisb
Cher, Indn..
MDUluia
Bonrgnpia
Dijou
Ain, COte-d-Or, aaflne-al-I^iiro, Tonne,
Biettgae
IHanos
CetEa-du-Nord, FlEd*l*™, llle^at-Vllaine.
Lolts JnMrlBure, Moiblhan.
ArdflnncH Aiit«, Huns, Bauta Name.
H.ute»AlpBa.liiflmB.l9*rB.
DaupbM
FlMiilrB
LiUa
Sard
Foil
Ari^.
Fnwclie CoinU
DoDbB, Jura, Saute Btlme.
Quoogns, QiijPime
Anfh. Bor.
Aveyron, DoniognB, Gen. Qlronde, Lot,
dMia
Lot^aroBBB^Undo., Haute, Fj-
OlM, Seine, S«ino-Bt-OIM, SBiEB-et-
IledeFmace
Paris
Ungaedoo
Tonlonso
Atdteib^ Airfofoorf. Hfrault. HimU
Limogea
KMcy
ter
JZm™
Loire, Bhone,
Majrenne. SaittiB,
HiRhB
CreusB,I>r.cfBaatBVlBDne.
KlTStMil
NOVBB
KltTK.
Konaindj
RUDBD
Calvndoi, Eore, ManchB. Ome, Stina
liiliri.ora.
Orliuali
EuM-at-Lotnt, tolret. Uiltft«t-Chcr.
PloHdr
iBlMU!
Snirnne B. of PUHifrCilaJs, N. o( Atmo.
riBiui bina, Vmd»«, VionnB.
PlOTBlO
AH
K otTuioliu*,
RooHdUon
ryi4nt*s OrieiitaiM.
BiUatoiigc
" "' Clwnntt InOrlaiu*.
Tbunlna
TUIUT.
■ei-Loin.
196 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Central departments. In the six frontier groups the departments are
te^en ttvo deep from the sea or other boundary.
Fourteen North-Western Departments.
Hord.*— Lille 158, Wattrelos 12, Roubaix 65 n., Tourcoing 88 n.
(Deule), Armentidres 12, Halluin 11, Bailleul 10 n. (Lys), Valenciennes
24, Cambrai 22 (Scheldt), St Amand-les-eaux 10, Douay 24 (Scajpe),
Maubenge 10 (Sambre), Dunkerque 33 (Str. of Dover).
Toums between 5000 and 10,000 inhabitants.— Est&lret MervUle, Hazebromck,
Gond^, Anzin, Solesmes, Le Gateau, Beigaes, Gravelines, Gomminea.
Pas-de-Galais.— Arras 26 (Scarpe), St Omer 22 (Aa), Calais 13, St
Pierre 15 (Str. of Dover), Boulogne 40 (English Channel).
Aire, Garvin-Epinoy, Bethime, Agincourt
Soxmne.— Amiens 64, Abbeville 20 (Somme), Cressy 2 (Maye).
Oise.— Beaxtyais 15 (TeiTein), Compile 12 (Oise).
Noyon, Senlis, Glermont.
Seine Inferieure.—RouEN 101, Le Havre 75, Elbeuf 22 (Seine), Bolbeo
10 (Bolbec), Dieppe 20 (Arques), Fecamp 12 (N. coast).
Gaadebec-les-ElDeaf, Dametal, Yvetot, St Valery-en-Cauz, Sottevllle.
Eiire. — EvREUX 12 (Iton), Louviers 11 (Eure).
Andeleys, Vernon, Pont-Audemer, Bemay.
Eure-et-Ioir.— Chartres 20 (Eure).
Dreox, Nogent-le-Rotrou, Ghateaudun.
Calvados.— Caen 42 (Ome), Lisieux 13 (Tou^tues).
Falaise, Bayeux, Vire, Honfleor.
Ome.— Alen^on 16 (Sarthe), Flers 10 (Vere).
L'Algle, Argentan, Seez, La Ferte Mac&
Manche.— St Lo 10 (Vire), Cherbourg 37 (Divette), Granville 17 (W.
coast).
Valognes, Goutances, Avranches.
Mayenne.— Laval 27, Mayenne 10 (Mayenne).
Ghateau-Gontier, Ern^e.
* Instead of giving the prononclation of the different French words at tbey
occur, it seems preferable to advance a few general roles :—
a has two sonnds, as in mam-ma; ai, ei = k grave, or 0 in there; Otts ff.
e when unaccented is silent ; i with the acitte a^icentf like the shut aoond of «
in English, as in bed: it has the same sound when followed by a sQent r or f at
the end of a word; ^, with the ffr<^ve accent, and t eircun^lex = « in thtn.
eUt the same as din German, or oo in the Irish and ScottiBh Gaelic: as "Ban,
Evreux. eau and eaiea; = long din English, as Ghateau, Bordeaux (iS3U»-tf',B9fVI<Q^
ou = 00 in mood, or u in role ; as Angouldme (An^oo-UUmy.
g with a cedilla^ used only before a, 0, u, = «in English : as Aleneon C-mfnA
ch = English ah: as Rochelle, Chartres (Ro^heV, Shar^tr),
g before e, i, and y, and j = « or 2 in treaswre-^TjiA Aiiige, Jam (iirti^irt^,
ZKu'ra).
gn = n or ni in Spaniard : as Avignon, Boulogne ULv^i^wmg, Boo-M^O*
a, «, t, X, z, are silent at the end of words : as Koid, lames, Lot^ BardMn^
Bhodez (N6r, Neem, L5, BordOt Rhoda).
an, en, in, on, have no representative in English, and must be aoq[iiind ftma
the teacher : they are strictly nasal sounds, faintly resemUlng OfVi MVi <i^ and
ong in English.
u = Fr. u in plus, brtder; It approximates to Bcotoh ti In pudb^ mjnh; lint
has no corresponding sound in English, tii and 1^ = ^^i*f*^ w$g M n^'ia'
Udme (PtDee-de-DSme), ^
FRANCE.
197
riB-et-Vilalne.— Rones 52 (Vilaine), St Servaii !3 (Eance).
Voagiite. Cancsle, Redon, Vltre, Fo-ageaY, Combours, Bt Ualo.
CfiteB-dn-lToTd.— St Brieuo 15 (Oouet).
DJnan, Gaingamp, FlDnhar Lannlon, Plouant
HniaUre.— QniMPER 11 (Odetl, Morlaix H (Relec). Brest 80 (Eloin).
Floitgutel, LanUemean, LBmbezellea, Grozon, QDliupeTl&
Ten Wbstebn Depabtkents.
Korbihan.— Vanne3 13 (G. of Morbiiiau), L'OrieDt
PonHvy, Baod, Sanesn, PLoermel, Flocmenr.
Loire InSrlenre.— Nahtits 112, St Naziiire 11 (Lai
— ■ — - a, TiUet
Xaloe-et-Loire. — Asqebg S5 {ranSnence of Sartlie and Mayenne)) Sau-
a U (Loire), Chollet 13 (Maine), Cbalonnes S (Lagoo).
Tmid&i.—NAi>OLSoN- Vendue or BonBBON-VsmifiK 8 (Ton).
Sables d'Olonne, Kolrmnotler, Ponlcnay, Lnijoo.
Dani Mttbh.— NlOBT 21 (Sfevre Niortaiae), Partbenay 5 (Thone).
Charente Inferienre.— I.i Eochellb 19 (N. coast), Edcbefort 30,
Sointea 11 (Cliaroiite], St Jean d'Angely 6 (Bontonne).
" E 25, Cognac 8 (Cbarente),
1 eiionde.— BOBDEiUS 194 {Garonne), Liboume 12 (Dordogno).
DordogM.— PEHiauiux 20 (Isle), Borgerac 12 (Don"
ne), VillenouvB d'Agan 14 (Lot).
FonnriiEH Soi^thebn Defabtuektb.
I lAn(leB.~MO!rT-DE-MABaAN 6 (Midoiize), Dbx 10 (Adonr).
_ . BBPyrinSea.— PAn25(GavBdePau), BayotmB28{Adour).
1 Hastes PyrfinfaB.— Tabbes 15, Bagnferea 9 (Adour).
I flerB.— AUCK 12, Leotoure 9 {Gere), Condom 9 (Bayse).
I Xante Qaronne.- TonLonsB 124 (Garonne).
L.St GaadouB. Rewc], TlUemur.
r Tam-et-Garonne.— Mohtacbah 28, Castel-Satraain 7 (OaronuBl, Mois-
'lo 10 (Tarn).
I AriigS,— PoiX 8, Pamiara 8 (Ari^el.
f Pyrgnees Orieatalea.— Pkbpiiisan 25 (Tet).
I AJide.— Cabca^okke 22, SacboDse 16 (Aude).
I'lilinani, CMtelDoiidary.
1 Tarn.— Algt IB {Tarn), Caatrea 21 (Agont), Mainmet 11 (Arntitte).
■ tUbaitena, Galllac, Laiinr, Gmnlhet. Pnf[&anDB.
1 Efcanlt— MONTPELUEB 59 (Lei), Moera 28, Bedariaoi 10 (Orbe).
devB 12 (LerguB), Cetto 24 (ooaall.
■* "~i, Agda, Pejoiuw, Cieir — ■ " —
— Mendb S (Lot).
— NiUBB flO (VlttK), Beauoalre 10, Alais 20 (Gardoo).
», La Pont St Bipilt, V^, AudflH, Le Vigao.
he.— PiiTTA3 7 (OnveiBj, Aimciaay 16 (Cance).
200 POUTICAL OEOGBAFHY.
Roubaix, Keiins, Toulon, Brest, Amiens, Klmes, Versailles, Angers,
Montpellier, Limoges, Nancy, Kice, Bennes; and fifty between
50,000 and 20,000.
, North-West Departments. — These are by far the most popnlons.
having two cities (Lille, Rouen) above 100,000; four between 100,000
and 50,000 (Brest, Le Havre, Roubaix, Amiens); sixteen between
50,000 and 20,000 ; and twenty between 20,000 and 10,000. lille, a
very strongly fortified city on the Belgian frontier, and Vanban's
masterpiece, is one of the chief seats of the cotton, linen, and wool-
len manufactures. Bonbaix, Tonrcoing, and Bailleni, important manu-
facturing towns. Valenciennes, a strongly -fortified manufacturing
town, famous for its lace, and the birthplace of Froissart in 1387.
Cambrai, the see of Archbp. F€n^on, has been lon^ famous for its cam-
h-ics. Bouay, noted as the place from which was issued the only Eng-
lish version of the Scriptures received by the Roman Catholic Oburcn.
Dunkerque, a strongly-fortified seaport, and the most northerly town in
France. Arras, St Omer, Calais, and Boulogne, are all strongly forti-
fied, and engaged in various manufactures ; the infamous Robespierre
was a native of Arras; and at Boulogne, Napoleon I. assembled his
flotilla for the invasion of England in 1804. Calais is the nearest city
in France to the English shores, and is celebrated in the wars between
the two countries; and Boulogne is the residence of many EngUsli
families. Agincourt, famous for the great victory obtained by Henry V.
over a greatly superior French force in 1415. Amiens, the birthplace of
Peter the Hermit, Du Cange, and Delambre : here was signed the treaty
of peace between Britain and France in 1802. Abbeville, an important
stronghold fortified by Vauban, with numerous manufactures. CresBY,
famous for the victory obtained by Edward III. over the French in 1846.
Bouen, one of the most populous and flourishing cities in the north of
France, celebrated for spinmng and dyeingwoollen and cotton stuf&i; has
a magnificent Gothic cathedral built by William the Conqueror, and a
statue of the celebrated Joan of Arc, who was burnt to death here in
1431. Le Havre and Bouen are the two great seaports of Paris, with
which they are connected by the Seine and by railway. Elbenf is one of
the chief seats of the woollen manufacture. Dieppe is the packet station
to Brighton. Beauvais, famous for its cloth ana tapestry. Comjpidgne,
where the Maid of Orleans was taken prisoner by the English m 1481.
Noyon, the birthplace of John Calvin, in 1509. Evreux has one of tiie
finest cathedrals in France. Chartres, once the capital of Celtic Ghiul,
is the centre of a great com trade. Caen, a large manufacturing town,
famous for its lace, contains the tomb of William the Conqueror. Alen-
(on, celebrated for lace and for crystal diamonds. Cherbourg, the Sebas-
topol of France, and one of her principal naval stations, situated at tiie
northern extremity of the peninsula of Cotentin, within sight of the Eng-
lish coast ; the works, long in progress, and now mounting 8000 guns,
were formally opened on the 4tn August 1858 by Napoleon III., in pre-
sence of Queen Victoria and a powerful English fleet. Bennes, the
ancient capital of Brittany. St Brieuc, extensively engaged in the New-
foundland cod-fishery. Quimper, with a large pilchard-fishery. Brest,
a first-class military port, and the principal station of the French navy,
is strongly fortified and difficult of access.
Western Departments. —These contain only two cities of more than
100,000 inhabitants (Bordeaux, Nantes) ; one between 100,000 and 50,000
(Angers) ; six between 60,000 and 20,000 (L'Orient, Bochefort, Angou-
FIIAKCE. 201
„_B,NicFrt, Perigueux ; and twelve between 20,000 and 10,000. I'Orient,
& military Beaport, and one of tliB live priacipal ststioiis of the Freacti
Imvy, witii eitensiTs shipbuilding. Bantes, dds of tbe lai^eat iind most
contmerciBl cities in the -wist of France, with exteusive shipbuilding
dooks : here wss issued the famona Edict of Nantes, gmnting unportant
privil^es tp the French Protestants, in ISfiS. Jigers, the former
capital of Anjou, with various manufactures, and extenslTe slate-guarries
in the neighbourbood. Saumur, a stronghold of tlie French t^oteatants
In the sixteentlt century, ia celebrated for its cavalry Hcbnol. JTiort, a
thriving commercial and manufacturing town. La Boohells, memorable
fortbe ajege which the Huguenots sustained against Louis XIII. in 1639,
ia a attongly-fortlfied seaport town. BocbuOTt, an important naval
station fortified by Va\iban, is a tiist-clBBS military port Angonleme,
the former capital of Angournois, baa eitensive trade, and is the birth-
place of Montalembort, BaliBc, and Mai^aret deValoia. Cog^nac, famous
'ts brsndv, which is largely exEiortod, Bordeaux, the ancient cap. of
innfl, and the laziest and most important city in the west of FMice,
ta third commercial port, is the great L>mporinm of the wine trade,
. . me of the principal seats of its foreign commerce. Agen, with a
trade in prunes, is an entrep6t for the trade between Bordeaui and Tou-
1 (Toulouse) above
itween 100,000 and
.-,...,__-, , , J , , Perpignan, Cette,
CaiEUSanne, Castres, Alais) between 60,000 and :AI,O0O; and ten be-
tween20,000 and 10,000. Paa, the capital of the old province of fifam,
ia the birthplace of Henry IV., of Gnaton de Foii, and of General Ear-
Jiadotte, afterwards Jting of Sweden. Bayonno, a strongly-fortified sea-
IMrt, in the estreme south-west of tha kingdom, carries on an important
trade with Spain, of which itfonns the key ; the £uyaH(( was invented
here. Toulouao, the most important and populous city iu'tlie entire south
of France, was the capital of LangDedoc ; it is a sort of southern capital
for literature and science, and contauis the principal cannon-fanndiy iu
France ; near it toot place a sanguinary battle in 18U between Wellington
■od MarahaJ Sonlt. Parpignan, the former capital of Ronssillon, and
an important military stronghold, haa an extensive commerce in wines,
wool, silkjiron, and corks. Carisasaoilne niaintaina au active trade in
brandy. Sarbwuia, a very ancient city, founded by the first Roman
colony sent into Gaui, was the residence of several Saracen kiugra in the
middle ages ; it ia now celebrated for its honey. Alby : it wua from this
town that the Albigenscs of the middle ages, who were bo cruelly peise-
cuted by the Church of Rome for their zealoua maintenance of Gospel
troth, derived their name, Cartres, a place of great trade, manulac-
tdrea, and mining operationa, waa one of the tirat cities in France that
embraced the doctrlties of Calvin — the birthplace of Cacier and Rapiu.
Kontauban a large, well-built town, with several manufactures, and the
seat of a Protestant tbeotogical BOmlnary. Hentpdlier, one of the Qneat
cities in the 8.E, of France, with many literary and scientific institutions,
ia much frequenl«d by invalids; it was an independent lepnblic during
the middle ages. Beziera, a line town built on a hill, near the Orbr,
niffered much during the crusade againsttheAlbigenseainthe thirteenth
i^tniy. Catte, a fortiOed seaport town, at the entrance of the Canal dn
Hidi. Vinai , a large, thriving, comn^ercial city, with
IMid_
imwofailk,
totroduoed tobacco mto Franca. Bettaoalre
202 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
where all kinds of merchandise may be found, and is frequented by ;
chants from all parts of Europe and Asia.
South-Eastebn Departments. — These contain one city (MarseiUe)
above 100,000 inhabitants ; two between 100,000 and 60,000 (Tomlon,
Nice) ; four between 50,000 and 20,000 (Avignon, Aiz, Aries, Valence) ;
and nine between 20,000 and 10,000. Marseille (Massilia), the most
ancient city in France, having been founded by Greek colonists B.O. 600 ;
and the third in France in regard to population : its commerce, which
chiefly consists of wines and fruits, extends to all parts of the world.
Aries, the ancient capital of Gaul, and afterwards of the kii^om of
Provence, has been the seat of 13 ecclesiastical councils. Avigiion, s
flourishing manufacturing town, surrounded by plantations of mulberry-
trees, was the residence of the Roman pontiffs during the seventy years
of their "Babylonish captivity" (a.d. 1308-1377). Orange was the
capital of an ancient principality of same name, which William of Nassau,
the founder of the Dutch Kepublic, inherited ; hence the King of tiie
Netherlands is still Prince of Orange. Toulon, a first-class war-port, and
the great naval station of the south of France : here Napoleon L com-
menced his military career, during the memorable siege of 1793. Vice,
originally a Greek colony from Massilia {Marseille), is celebrated as one
of the earliest seats of Christianity in Europe : along with its territory,
it was transferred by Sardinia to France in 1860 : together with Cannee
and Mentone, in the same department, it is much frequented by invalids
from !Ehigland and other countries. Brian^on, the principal arsenal of
the French Alps, is the most elevated town in Europe, bemg 4283 feet
above the sea. Valence, noted for its cotton-printing and manufacture
of silk goods.
Eastern Depabtmentb. — ^The eastern departments contained one city
(Lyon) of above 100,000 inhabitants ; two between 100,000 and 60,000
(Strasboure, Mulhausen); five between 60,000 and 20,000 (Besanfon.
Grenoble, Vienne, Le Creuzot, Colmar) ; and thirteen between 20,000 and
10,000. Annecy, capital of Upper Savoy, annexed to BSrance by Sar»
dinia in 1860. Chambery, cap. of department Savoie, also annexed
to France in 1860, has a brisk trade in metals and wines. Grenoble,
an impregnable stronghold on the Isere, formerly the capital
of Daupmn€, was the first large town that opened its gates to
Napoleon in 1815. Vienne, a thriving town, with lead and silver
mines in the vicinity. Lyon (Lugdunum), at the coniluence of the
Rhone and Sadne, is the second city in France in regard to population
and commercial importance, and the first in manufacturing industry : it
was founded by the proconsul Plancus, B.c. 43 ; became the capital of
Roman Gaul, of the kingdom of Burgundy, and afterwards of the pro-
vince Lyonnais ; has numerous manufactures — ^that of silk being the most
celebrated ; and contains the finest provincial library in France : was the
birthplace of Germanicus, of the emperors C. AureUus and Caracalla, of
the botanist Jussieu, of Jacquard and CamiUe Jourdan. Maoon, the
centre of an extensive wine-trade. Chalons-sur-Sadne, at the head of the
Oanal-du-Centre, carries on an extensive inland trade. Lons-le-Saulnier,
so named from its famous saline spring, which yields annually 20,000
quintals of salt Bosangon, a strongly-fortified city on the Doubs, cele*
brated for its clocks and watches. Colmar and MuDiausen, extensively
engaged in cotton manufactures, now belong to Germany. Strasbourg',
at one time a free imperial city of Germany, became subject to France m
1681, and then became the capital of Alsace. In 1870 it was compelled
to capitulate to the German army under General von Werder. It Is now
-_e capital ol tlie Oerman province ElBass-LoHiriagen is very stroDgly
fbrtlSecI, and contains a celebrated cathedral (fonnded in 504, bn( not
linialied till tlie fifteenth centnrj), with s apira ^66 feet high, which con-
tains a lemarkahle BStronomical clock, representing tha mavements of
the planeta in the Bclai system.
NORTB-EifiTBBTJ DEPARTMENTS. — These contain no town above
100,000 eiCBpt Paris which in 1872 bad 1.852,000 inbabiUnta ; three
batween 100,000 and 50,000 (Beitns, Versailloa, Nancy) ; two between
C0,000 and 20,000 (St Quontinand St Dennis) ; nndBiiteaa between 20,000
and 10,000. BstK, a very strongly fortified city, near the Belgian fron-
tier, was compelled tn capitulate to the Germans, Oct. 27, 1870, when
8 marshals of Fraooa, 6,000 oiEcers, and 173,000 men were made prisoners.
Vanoybos extensive manufscturesof cloth and embroidered muslin. Lnne-
^lle, noted for the treaty execated here in 1801 between the Emptror cE
Garmany and the first Napolenn. Eeims.thBprinclpal seat of the woollen
manufacture, is renowned in history for the maiutenitQca of ita liberties
•gainst the bishops in tlie Middle Ages ; many ecclesiastical oouncila wera
held here, and in its colossal cathedral many of tia kings of France
were crowned. Sedan will be ever memoruble as the scene of the terrible
homlliation of Franco (Sept. 2, 1S70), when Napoleon III Marsha! Mac-
mahon, 39 generals, and 100,000 men anrrandered to f ha King of Prussia.
PoBtaJiutilean, wheia Napoleon I. signed his abdication, v&a long the
fBTomite residence of the kings of France. TsisBilLes, famous lor its
magnificent royal palate, one of themost goreeous in the world ; many
femouB titaties were signed here, at one of which, in 1763, England re-
cognised the Indepcudence of the United States of America. Paris, tho
capital of France, and the second largest city in Europe, is situated on
Ixfthlianksorthe Seine, about 100 mites from its mouth. Less than half
the size of London, it for surpasses the latter in magnificence, and is re-
gvded by all as the most splendid city in Europe. It is s\irronnded by
B fortified wall 21 miles in length, and a series of forts, erected by Louis
Philippe at an enormous expense ; and is odnmed Ity sumptuous palaces,
m«gnincent churches, and other public buildings, by fountains, gardens,
triampha! arches, and columns. The Uniforsity has twenty-eight pro-
fessoTs, and the Natiana! Library contains 1,400,000 printed works and
pamphlets, besides 125,000 MS, volumes. After a protracted siege
(commencing Ang. 7, 1870), during which the Parisians suffered torriMB
privations, the city was compelled to surrender to the Germans.
Tb» Twep(tt-one CenthaI. DepaRTuENTs contain ona town (St Eti-
ence) with mora than 100,000; one between 100,000 and fiO,000
(LimogBsli ten between 50,000 and 20,000 (Orleaas, Ze Mans, Tour,
Dijon, aarmont-FerraQd, Troyoa, Poitior". Bourgcs, Nevers, Blois) ;
and twenty-two between 20,000 and 10,000. le Uoni, with a brisk
trade In grain and various manuTaetutES. Tours, the former capital o(
Toniaine.attheconflnancaol the Loire and Cher, with silk manufactures,
■nd numarans schools and leuned societies. Blola, with great trade in
Ori&ns braiidy, OrUans, the former capital of Orieannais, and ai one
time the capital of the kingdom of Burgundy, was besieged by tlie Eng-
lish in 1428, and delivered by the celebrated Joan of Arc, hence called
"Tbt Maid of Ori&ns." TroyBB, the former capital of Champagne, is
tte centre of several important manufactures: here a treaty was con-
_ *laded in 1420. conferring the crown of France on the King of England.
"^tl«», formerly capital of Poitou, was in the poaseaaion of*" — '— -" '~
■— centuries. Chateauroai has extensiv '-'
Boargea, former capital ol
204 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
finest Gothic catbedraLi in Europe. Vevers, former capital of Nivenuds,
has important manufactures of iron and steel goods. Byon, the ^rind-
pal market for the sale of Burgundy wines, was formerly the capital of
Bourgogne. Limoges, the former capital of Limousin, noted for its
horse-races and its woollen manufactures. TfouliTig, formeiiy capital of
Bourbonnais, with tanneries and manufactures of cutlery. TnUe, con-
tains a national factory of firearms. Clermont-Perrand, near the lofty
mountain Puy-de-Ddme, and in the centre of a volcanic region. BionL,
noted for being paved with basalt and lava quarried in the ndghbour-
hood. St Etienne, a large thriving city, surrounded by coal-mines, and
containing an active industrious populktion, who are largely engaged in
the manufacture of firearms and iron-ware. Cahors carries on s large
trade in tobacco and red wines. Le Pay is celebrated for its cathedral,
containing a small image of the Virgin, which the inhabitants devoutly
worship under the appellation of ** Our Lady of Puy." Ajaedo, the
capital of Corsica, and the birthplace of Napoleon I. in 1769, cairies on s
trade in wine, oil, and coral.
Capes and Islands. —The following are the principal capes : —
Gris-Nez {Grienay\ in Pas-de-Calais, the nearest point to England ;
Barfleur and La Hague, in the N. of Manche ; Point St Matthien
and Raz Point in the W. of Finist^re ; Couqnet, the extremity of the
peninsula of Quiberon ; Side, near Toulon. hUrndt. — IJshant and
belle Isle, S. of Morbihan ; Noirmoutier and lie Dien, W. of Ven-
d^ ; R^ and Oleron, W. of Charente Inf6rieure ; Hi^res, S. of Var ;
Lerins, S.E. of Var; Corsica, a large island, between France and
Italy, now forming one of the French departments.
Onlfb, Basra, and Straits.— Str. of Dover, 20 miles wide, bet
Picardy and Kent ; Estuaries of the Somme and Seine ; Bay of S.
Malo, bet. Manche and C6tes-du-Nord ; Estuary of the Loire, W. of
Loire Inferieure ; Estuary of the Gironde, bet. Charente Inf§rienie
and Gironde ; Bay of Biscay, bet. the W. of France and N.W. of
Spain ; G. of Lions, S.E. of France.
Surface and Monntalns. — The face of the country is generally
level, and its aspect monotonous and dreary. The want of orna-
mental plantations, and the almost total absence of hedges, give to
the landscape an unusual degree of sameness. The principal monn-
tain-ranges are situated on nie S.W. and E. frontiers, and belong in
part to the Hesperian, but chiefly to the Alpine system (see under
** Europe," p. 69). They are all comprised in the following seven
groups : —
The Pi/renees, between France and Spain, separating the basins of the
Tet, Aude, Garonne, and Adour, from those or the Uobregat and Ebro—
the loftiest summits (Maladetta, &c.) being within the Spanish frontier;
Mont Perdu in Hautes Pyren^s, 10,994 feet; Mont Midi, in Basses
Pyrenees, 9438 feet
T?ie A Ips, between France and Italy, and between the basins of the
Rhoneand Po. The highest summits belonging to France are, Mont
Blanc, in Haute Savoie, 15,781 feet, the cuhninating-point of Europe
(unless we should except Mont Elburz, in the Caucasus, which is
18,571 feet); Mont Pelvoux, between Hautes Alpes and Is^re, 13,440
r
F£AKCE. 305
fast : Mout GBue\Te, 11,782 Sent, aud Mont Viso, 12,5S6 fest, bntli in
Hsntes Alpes.
Jura Moimtaini, bBtweeii Frauce and BwitmHEud, Bepatstbig the
liuiiif of the DonbB and Aar ; Uout MdUeson, is Ajn, SiSS feel ; Beculel,
S63Sfeet
Vtuffit Xounlaini, ^twMD Lornuse and Alnace, separating ibe Klmie
from its afflnatit the MoHelle ; BaDon de Gaebwiller, in Hant Khin, -^M
feet : BaUon d' Alsace, 41^ feet.
C6te iTOr Jlfonirtaiiui, in department of aanie name, eeparatinp the
liaBitu of the Sdue and Loire from that of the Saline; Le ToBselot,
1»GS feet.
Cetaaia ifoKiaainM, in Lan^edoc, aeparating the basins of the JLhone
uidBaCmefromthose f^ the Loire and Giammie; Mmit Mezene» in Ard^che,
SS20 feet ; Mont Lozb^ in Lozb^ 4667 feet.
Ataerma Moauiaim. aepamtjng the hasiii of the Loire from that of
the DoTclogne anfl Gannme ; Puj de Baney, in Pnj-de-DamB, 6187 feet :
Pny'de-DOme, 4SI5 feet.
StTst-Basllll. — Of the uttmeninE rirer-bufiiiis of France, only 12
are ot considerable magnitude — Ti/.,the Loire, Seine, Ehone, Girondc,
Bomme, VilulnE. Chareute, Adnnr, Tet, Rhtne, Ilenae, and ScLiJdt.
The beat autbaiiTies arc greatly at Tanutoe in estimating the btboe ;
and in bddie cubeb ve con only make an approzimntion. It appears
tliat time 1° baains comprise Jths of the trhole area of France, and
't out of the Bti camtalfi, beiog fths of the entire ntunber. Omit-
tiag tbe 5 basinB 9tdA contain 1 capital each, the remaimiip 7 eon-
tain 67 capitals, or abont Jths of the whole iramber, and their cum-
bjned area (liJ,000 Bqnare iniJeB) the game proportion of tie ectii'o
area of France. The ba^ of the Loire alone cautaina 16,000 sq. m.,
and that of the Seine 26, OOa
Table of BlTeiB amd Townl. — The fullowing table embmces all
the tlTeTB and tovme of France ennmetated under the "Political
Diviaaitb, " Uie capitals of departmentB being distingiiiahed by bh'tt.
CAPITii iBttera; towns above 10,000 iahabitflJit*, by Konum let-
ters, and amaller tavos by liaiia. The Bbine, Mense, and Scheldt,
being shown in their fnll deTelopment onder Germany and the
Hetbedonds, only the partionE t^ tliein belonging to France are
saticed here.
Basiiu mcMwd tn lAc Eiiglitli Channel.
Siven. JVjinu. | RiiKTi. Taumi.
0tr. nf Dater, Dnnkerqne, CzQ^s. ' Beine — yEBaoiLLEs, n., Tasja,
206
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Basins inclined to the English Channel (continued).
Rivers.
Towns.
Oise, Pontoise, Compiigne,
Noyony Chauny.
Nonette, ISenlis.
Terrein, ..Beauvais.
Breaches, Clermont.
Aisne, I ..Soissons, Rethel.
V61e, I.. Reims.
Delette, Laon.
I
Mame, Paris, Vincennes, n.,
MeauXy Chateau
Thierry, Epemay. Cha-
LONS-sur-Manie, Vitry^
St Dizier, Chaumont,
Langres.
Ornain,. . . Bar-le-Duc.
Essonne, L.Corheil.
Juine, I ..Etct/inpes.
Loing, I .... Montargis.
Yonne, I.. .. Montereau, Sen s, Vil-
leneuve, Joigny, Aux-
EBRE, Clamecy.
Voisin, . . . AvalUm.
Rivers.
Towns.
Vouzie, Provins.
Touques, Lisieox.
Dives Falaise, n.
Ante, I .. ..Falaise.
Orne. Caen, Argentan, Seez.
Vere, i Flers.
Dr6me, Bayeux, n
Vire St Lo, Vire.
Douve, Vaiognef n. (I. t)
Divette, Cherbourg.
Sienne, Cowtances, n. (r. t.)
Bosq, Granville.
Seez, Avra/nches.
Couesnon, . . ..Fougbres.
Co. lUe-et-Vi- CaticaUe.
laine,
Ranee, St3fdl0yStQeTvaji,I>inan.
Gonet, St Brieuc.
Co. C6tes-du- Plouha.
Nord,
Trieux, Guingamp.
Guer, Lannion, Plouaret.
Relec, Morlaix.
Basins inclined to the Atlantic.
Elom,
Odet,
Quimperl6, . . .
Blavet,
Evel, I
Co. Morbihan,
Vilaine,
Isaac, I ...
Oust,
Due, I...
Cher, I ...
lUe,
Loire,
S6vreNan-
taise, I
Moine, .,
Divale, I
Layon, I
Mayenne, .
Em^e, ..
Sarthe, . . .
Loir,
L'Huine,
Dive, I . .
Brest, Plougastel, Lam-
bezellaCf Lamdemeau.
QUIMPER.
Qaimperli.
L'Orient, Pontivy.
Bavd.
Vankes, Sarzeau.
RedoUy Renkes, VUre.
.Blain.
.Redon.
.Ploermel.
.Fougeray.
.Cornhourg.
. St Nazaire, if ontotr, "Sxuf-
Tta,Ch4ilonne, Anoers,
n. , Saumur,TonRS,^m-
botscy Blots, Beaugen-
cy, Orleans, Oien, Cos-
nCyLaCharitiy Nevers,
Roanne, Montbrison,
St Etienne, n., Le Put.
Nantes, V&rton.
.ChoUet.
.Vallet
.Chalonne.
.Anokrs, ChMeau-Gonti-
er, Laval, Mayenne,
Lii-Ferti Maci.
.Ernie.
.Angers, Sable, Le Mans,
Alencon.
.La FUche, Venddme,
Chateaudun.
Nogent-le-RotroiL
.Mamers.
Thouet, I... Parthenay.
Argentan, Argentan.
Yienne, I ...Chinon, Ghatellerault, St
Junien, Limooss, St
Leomard.
Grouse, ..Le jBtone, Guebet, Au-
busson.
Gartem- MontmorUlon.
pe, I
Clain, I ..Poitiers.
Indre, I Buzangais, Chateau-
Roux, La Chatre.
Cher, 2 Tours, Selles, Vierzon,
StAmandy montluQvn,
Saudre, ..JRomoranttn.
Axon, I ... Issoudun, n.
Auron, . . . Bouroes.
Allier, ( ....MouLivs, Clerhonti
Ferrani), Issoire.
Sioule, I,. St Pourfoin.
Andelot, I Qannat.
Sichon, ..Ctisset.
Dore, .... Thiers, Ambert.
Ambene,Z Riom.
Arroux, . . . . Le Creuzot, n., Autun.
Furens StBtienne.
lignon, .... TssingeauXy Tenee.
Co. vendue, ..Sable-^OUmne.
Lay, Lufon^n.
Yon, Napoleon-Vendek.
S 6 V r e Nior- Niort.
taise,
Vendue, ..,.Fontenay.
Co. Charente LaRochellx.
Inf^rieure,
' FRANCE. 207 1
BojtB. inelLied to tk>
Atlantk (contiDued).
RiKn Teaiu,
Oharenl* Boehfoit, Saintes, Cog-
BiysB, i Merac, Condom.
nac, Ahoouijmk.
Geia,i I,«i™«,ADCH.
Bontonno, ..StJiand'Aitgeiy.
T«™, MDlssso, Mdntadbak,
SOTdogoe, LiboaniB, Beiijei'ao,
S!X=%ft'.:'1S:
^u^^iTVlfr^^^
Taiiie, M-mtignac.
Aveyran, VlUe&uiche, Rhodez.
Corrtu. 1 SriMI. Tdu£
Agout, i . . LmaVT, Cutres.
Ceon,iT...O™r<ton.
AdQU,.,Gniu!ft«I.
6rf.t, SarbL
Om,i ADHILUC
Bar, 2. .««»(.
Lecm ( Xaamtt. n.
DiS. U»d.
Bot^ea,tStAfriirae.
Lore, Grenade.
So?TiMin.TODLoDsl;,a
Arritgs P™fer.,Poix
Atbdoe. J ..ifamwndi.
Adout, Bayonne, Dos, Tahbh, ,
Lot, vnjouenve d'Ageu, Ca-
G a Y e - d «■ Ortbu, Fid, Olmi, n.
BOB4. Mekde.
Paa.1'
Troeyn,*i'St¥!om-, 0.
MidoBze Moht-de-Mamas.
I-'^.i Aire.
£ih™ inciiTUd to
Tat. Perpiokjh.
Ande, Nujonm, C*BCA»30SME,
Aiizon,I..Carp6ntia«.
Boigu L-Iilt.
Orb*; Btei™, Bedariaui.
AlgneB,i...Oringe.
Jnm SiPoni.
Aidechs,....^ua>na9.
L'K^lue, ....CfeiTOUK-de-Lodiw, Lo-
Dr6ni«,'i'.'.'(?™(. '
d»ve.
Arm l^Vigan.
^'m^;:;::?^^''*^'"™'^'"
Oo.B«rau]t,..Oatt.,Jfto,
Cance, Anuimay.
■La, Mosmuj-iER,
Qier, Bive-de-Gier, Bt Cha.
mond.
'ildiiiiB. tUMtto-I-iiit
TlaCn^ Nixra.
Bafme, '.L¥OH, Viliefranche, Ma-
»oi«, Aiin>. a o«fa», t™.
50B, roummr.Chalonn-
OOB, B«m™i™, Avi-
Bur-SaOne, Avaxinne, ,
oHox, LiPtmiSt E,-
j^,ir..ntBllinai-. Val-
Aiergue,..Tarare, n.
GI^.'TIJ^Oto™^'
^^aJ/l^""^'
LADBAiiN£,VevBy, Jfar-
BelUa I ..poliffny.
^■SS^"'"™'
G«don.....Bmncal™,AM9.
Donb!, J Dfllf, BEBAHpra, Jlonl
Seine, (...PiiB.n.
4«itflrd, /^^!,o^lfer,
ADduH, ..Anddie, Bt Jenn-da-
Se-^ir- Btl/on.'^' ""'°'
I>iii«MB.i,.A»i™cB. Cfli««<m, SI
iZmty, n.. /*««.«, Jfn-
Boiuolr^ BeiiiDe.
TVMjw, Swwnm.
C«lHm...JjK,
Dnjon, I vhodl-
BleoDO, J DtoKE.
Ain, SiCiaude, n.
• The GiTB-Je-Pan Iuucb ftonmUk
fed \,y the glaciers o( Mnnt Perdn, and
t»rt, th« highest In Buroiw, descanding
lejofLue. Fonr olher wateria]!., oii
•twhlcli iB SOQ [est high, leap ovet the
-ocksQ^lhelkUrboit.
208
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Basins inclined to the Mediterranean (continued).
Rivers. Towns.
Savifere, i. ..Drains Lake Bourget
Leisse... . . Chambery.
Fieran, I ... Annecy.
Arve, I Geneva.
Etang-de- Les Martigues.
Berre,
Touloubre, ..iSa^.
Arc, Aix.
Verne, Marseille, Axwagne,
Auriol.
Rivers. Totont.
S. E. Coast,.. . . La Ciotat, Toulon, La
Seyne, Antibes,
Gapeau, Hl&res.
Argense, Lorgues.
Artuby, I... Draguignan.
Calami, Brignoles.
Siagne Canvas.
Esteron, I ..Grasse.
Paglione, Nice.
Co. of Nice,... Jfonoco. Mentone, Ven-
I timigtia.
Basins inclined to the North Sea.
Rhine,* Strasbouro, Guebwil-
ler, n.
Moselle, I ..Thionville, Metz, Pent-
drMousson, Nancy,
Tovi, Epinal, Remire-
mont.
Sarr, Saarbrtick, Sarregue-
mines.
Meurthe, Nancy, Lun^ville, St
Diey.
Madon, I Mirecourt.
Moder, I.... Haguenau, Bischtoiller.
Zom, Saveme.
Ill, i Strasbourg, Schele-
Stadt, COLMAR, Mul-
hausen.
Bniche, I Oberheim.
Liepvrette, I St Marie-aux-Mines.
Thaur, I ..Mulhausen, TJiann.
Meuse, Oivet, Charleville, Mk-
ziERES, Sedan, Verdon,
St MihieL
Sambre, I... Maubeuge.
Scheldt, Condiy Amin, Valen-
ciennes, CambraL
Lys, I Tourcoing, n. , Comminet,
Armenti^res, Hallnin,
Bailleul, n., MervHU,
Aire.
Deule,....Waltrelos, Ronbaix, n.,
Lille, Carvin-Epinoy,
Lens.
Beurre, I Haaebrouck.
Lawe, .... Bethune.
Scarpe, 2... St Amand-les-eanx,
Douay, Arras.
Selle, SolesmeSf Le Cateati,
LsLkes. — France is singularly devoid of lakes, and the few that
exist are of very small dimensions. Grand Lien, the largest of them,
in the department Loire Inferieure, occupies only 20 sq. miles, and
St Point, m department Jura, 3 sq. miles. But there are numerous
lagoons, or salt marshes, called Etangs, in the S.W. and S.E. de-
Sartments, from which large quantities of salt are annually pro-
uced. The principal are Carcans and Certes, in Gironde ; San-
guinet and Biscarosse, in Landes ; Leucat and Sigeau, in Aude ;
Thou, in Herault ; and Etang de Berre, in Bouches-dn-Bhone.
Climate. — France lies between the isotherms of 50° and 60* hence
the climate is scarcely surpassed by that of any country in Europe,
though, owing to the great extent of its surface, there are great diver-
sities. Thus, in the N.W. departments, it greatly resembles the S.
of Endland ; in the N.E. the winters are long and often severe ; in
the S.E. the sky is almost always serene, and the winters of short
duration. The mean annual temperature in the N. is 50°, and in the
S. 60" Fahr., the mean temperature of the capital is slightly greater
than that of London, but is 2° higher in summer, and as many
lower in winter. Mean annual rain on the W. coast, 24 inches, S. 28,
N. 22 inches ; rainy days at Paris, 105 ; on W. coast, 152 ; in the in-
terior, 147 ; but on the coast of the Mediterranean, only 66. The hot
* The Rhine no longer forms part of the boundary of Franca
FRANCE, 209
irinJa of Africa freiiueiitly sprtad dflKolatioD in tlie S.E. dnpnrt.
inentB, wMh the S.W. are eiposed to piercing winds und tempests
from the Pyreneea and Bay of Biacay. Tlie oliva ia aacoessfally unl-
tirated ia tbs S.E. ; the general cnftivatioQ of maize extends uol'th-
ward to a line drawn from Bordeaux to Strasbourg ; the vine is pro-
fitably cultivated as far north as a line connecting the month of tha
l.oLre with Meziferes on tha Meuse, while N. of thia line ia the region
of wheat, flax, and beetroot.
Qeology anil HlneralB, — The geology of France is aa varied ai
that of England, comprehending all the formationa of the geological
■cale. The secondary strata, however, are the most highly developed,
"~ id cover the largest portion of the surface. They praviul chiefly ia
.0 E. and N.E. departments, from the Mediterranean to Metz on
le Moselle. They also cover a large part of the W, of France, ei-
iidiBg from the Garonne to the mouth of the Seine, hut not inclnd-
Sag Brittany, which is nearly alt Silurian. The nest in importance
"h the toitiarj Beriea, which occupies the region between the Pyreneea
jBid Garonne; an exteoaive tract along the Kaide of the Khona and
P-Saflno ; and a still more extensive area aroand the capital, known as
tha Paris batin, and celebrated as the field ie which the great Cnvier
roads hia reraarliable palfcontologicsl discoveries. Granitic roets
oconi in many places, but prevail especially in Brittany, and alone
the great water - parting separating the liasins of the Loire and
Garonna ; and, lastly, volcanic rocks are numerous in Cautal and
Puy-de-Dflme, where they form nn irregular ridge of mottntains, con-
sisting chiefly of extinct volcanoes. The moat abundant ooal-depoaita
are found in the central departments, especially in the basins of the
Loire, Crouse, Dordogne, Aveyron, Ardfeche, and Rhone, and in the
monataina of Cevennea, An extensive coal-field extends from Bou-
logne in an easterly direction to Belgium, and forms a source of great
w^th to the flonrishing cities of the N. coast of Frani^e ; but it is a
curiona fact that coal in France ia unaccompanied by ironatone, a
niineral which so greatly enhancea its valne in England and Scotland.
Tha next most important mineral ia iron, I'oond in all parts of tbo
kingdom, and worked to the extent of half a million of tons annu-
ally ; coal, as already described, wrought in 400 coal-Qiines, and
yielding upwards of 11,000,000 tons annually ; salt-mines of grest
valae ; copper, lead, silver, antimony, and email quantities of gp'^,
BulphltT, and sulphate of iron ; marble, gypsum, alabaster, builaing-
Btona, Uld slate, in many localities.
BotKBT. — France surpasses all other European c
number and variety of its indigenous plants. Thus, while the in-
diganons plants of the British falea amount only to 1400 apecies, of
which 1600 are flowering, France contuns 7000 species, of which
3610 are flowering, or, according to Maitins, 3860, of which 713 are
monocotyledons and 29S0 dicotyledons. The principal formt-traa
1 ue the difl'erent varieties of the pine tribe, as common fir in Voages
Lsnd Jura, and the larch in the loftier Alps ; the oak, beech, elm, ash,
'i, ftnd eork-tree. Forests occupy about 17,000,000 acres, being
210 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
nearly an eighth of the entire surface, and are the more valuable in
that they thnve in soils which could not otherwise be turned to good
account. The principal fruit-trees are the vine, olive, chestnut,
walnut, almond, apple, pear, cherry, orange, citron, fig, pomegranate,
pistachio, lemon, and plum.
Agriculture. — ^Except on the borders of Belgium, agriculture is in a
backward state, though the recent improvements have been extensive, and
the implements used in husbandry are of an inferior description. The
British system of rotation of crops is unpractised, and large farms are un«
known. This is mainly owing to the extreme subdivision of property.
When a landed proprietor dies^ the land is equally divided among all his
children. The result is that there are now in France about .8,000,000
landed proprietors, of whom 50,000 possess on an average 600 acres each ;
2,500,0000 have 60 acres each, while 5,000,000 have only 6 acres each.
The soil is in general of moderate fertilitv, but in many places very ridi:
\ is under cultivation, |th occupied with forests and fruit-trees, ^th in
permanent meadows, and 4th in unreclaimed waste land. Vineyaros now
occupy about a twentieth part of the entire area, and the French are
allowed to be the best winemakers in the world. The most celebrated
wines are those of Champagne, Burgundy, and Bordeaux. Wheat and
the vine form the principal objects of culture, and next to them barley,
oats, rye, buckwheat, Indian-corn, peas, beans, potatoes, and flax.
Wheat is grown chiefly in the north, where the vine cannot be cultivated
successfully ; maize in the south ; and rye throughout the whole country.
The quantity of com raised is usually sufScient for the wants of the
population, and considerable quantities are often exported. Mulberry^
trees form an important article of culture, especially around Lyon; beet«
root, from which sugar is largely manufactured ; tobacco and madder are
also cultivated in several departments, but the olive almost exclusively on
the coast of the Mediterranean. In the reaiing of cattle and sheep iStuice
is far behind Great Britain, but poultry are very extensively reared.
Zoology. — Among the wild Mammalia may be reckoned the
black and brown bear in the Pyrenees ; the lynx in the higher Alps ;
the wolf and wild boar in the forests ; the cnamois and wild goat in
the Alps and Pyrenees ; the stag, roebuck, hare, rabbit, and S)X, are
common ; the marmot, ermine, hamster, the red, alpine, and flying
squirrel in the Vosges ; the badger, hedgehog, polecat, weasel, raC
mouse, and mole, everywhere ; the beaver is found on the banks of
the Rhone ; the otter and water-rat in most of the other rivers.
Birds. — The songsters and the birds of passage are much the same
as in England ; the flamingo is found on the shores of the Mediter-
ranean; the red and grey partridge, quail, pheasant, woodcock,
plover, lapwing, wild-duck, and snipe are common ; the eagle, falcon,
and buzzard in the mountains. Reptiles are represented by numer-
ous species of frogs, including the salamander, by a few tortoises, and
by several species of vipers and of harmless snakes. Fishes. — The
herring, mackerel, sardine, pilchard, turbot, sole, whiting, on the
west coast ; the tunny and anchovy in the Mediterranean ; and the
salmon in the river-estuaries. The Articulaia include the crab,
lobster, crayfish, and numerous insects, among which may be men-
tioned bees, which are extensively reared ; and the silkworm, which
FRANCE. 2U
fbnna a liidily important source of wealth. Of MoUusca, liie oyster
md miaBsel form important articles of food.
EtUnograiiliy.— In ancient timea France (formerly GalljK, or Ganl)
was iahabited by three different races — viz., the Anuitani in the S.,
an Iberian race; the Celts in the centre, n Gallic race; and the
Belgse in the N., a Gothic race. The French people are therefore of
n mixed race, partly Teutonic, but chieHy Boinan and Celtic The
Gauls, or Celts, were the original inhabitants, but were invaded early
in the fifth centarj hy the Franks, Burgundiana, and Visisoths, ■.
confederacy of German tribes who had previoasly occupied the right
banlt of the Khine. In Brittany the Celtic element remains almost
mre, and the Basque jn B^am ; while Flemish is spoken in French
Flanders, and Italian in the 8.E.
The French Langaaot is an important member of the Greco-Latin
family. The conntry haTing been long mibject to the Homana, the
original language of the inhabitants was diaplaced by the Latin, wMiJi
waa in turn greatly corrupted by the Franks. The Armorio, howerer,
s purely Celtic dialect, continnea to be spoken in Brittany ; and the
B^miB, which cannot be classed under an; known family, is spoken
in the eitroma 9.W.
JUHgion.—Tbe graat bulk of the population are nominal adherents of
the Church of Rome. In 1B72 upwards oi 35,000,000 belonged to that
faith, while only 680,000 were Protestants, and 49,000 Jews. Tbe
majority of the Protestants are Calrinists, but Lutherans i
to theee deuominatiuus who will not submit to Slate <
limited.*
Edncativti. — From its lowest to its highest atage, educatj
.s detec
a and
established, a .
mentary school ; yet In 1872, one-tbird of the adult population eonld
neither read nor write. Advanced eduoation is conducted by an
organisation known u tbe " Clnivarsity of France," wbioli ambroces five
facalUBa— Tiz., those of Science, Letters, Law, Medicine, and Theology,
and which has branches in Paris, Caen, Toulouse, Dijon, Poictiei-s, and
Gennes. Tbe Roman Catholic Church, however, educatee ita clewjr in its
own eeoleaiaaticai aecninaries, in which the curriculum is very limitad.
The duration of acbool-life is regulated by tbe religion of tbe acholar.
Roman Catholics rarely attend school after eleveu ur twelve, when they
reodve their flrat communion, but Proteatanta commonly remain till about
riiteen. In intelleotnal charaoter the fVench people occupy a foremoat
place; while for eiqulsite taste, politoneaa, and courtesy of manners, they
•re unrivalled among the nations. In moral qualities, however, they ara
• In Ji
nnlrjn
at bo eonteoted nitli being to
■duKils will be tolerated ; and, sa n climax to this pEecs of reUidotiB onnreasED
It Is fOrther tntimal*d that sll altempta to diacnsa laltglous queatlonswlll 1
treated m (edition, and Buppreusd acroidinglr. Do tbe whole, Pmteatsntts
bu hardly been in a worae condition in Fruici alnce the reign of Lnnli XIV.
212 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY,
less favourably distinguished ; they are deficient in solidity of character
and strength of princij^le ; incapable alike of bearing prosperity or adver-
sity. Fickleness of disposition and a passion for military glor^ are pro-
minent features of their character. Licentiousness of manners is another
distinguishing trait, especially in large cities : in the capital, for instance,
every third mother is unmarried, and every third child nas a stain on his
birth ; but over the whole country the proportion is only one to fourteen.
Literature. — Though France cannot boast of many geniuses of
the first order, a great number of brilliant names adorn her literature.
The following are amongst the most distinguished of her many gifted
sons : —
POETBT : Moli^re, Kacine, ComeiUe, La Fontaine, Boileau, Crebillon,
Voltaire, Beranger, J. B. Rousseau, Hugo, Dnmas, Musset. Histobt :
Froissart, Rapin, Voltaire, Rollin, Comines, De Thou, Sully, Barante,
Thierry, Thiers, Mignet, Guizot. Fine Arts : Poussin, Vouet, Claude
Lorrain, Vanloo, Le Sueur, P. Mignard, Charles le Brun, Watteau, Ver-
net, Greuze, David. Phtsical Science : La Place, Lavoisier, Lagranffe,
Lalande, D'Alembert, Buffon, B^umur, Jussieu, Cuvier, Arago, Balbi.
Mental Science : Descartes, Malebranche, Gassendi, Bayle, Condillac,
Montesquieu, Cousin. Pulpit Eloquence : Bourdaloue, Bossuet, F€n^
Ion, Massillon. Sacred Literature : Calvin, Beza, Pascal^ Bochart,
DaUle, Tillemont, Le Long, Dupin, Fleury, Basnage, Saurin, Le Clerc,
Calmet, Houbigant. Miscellaneous : Rabelais, Montaigne, H. and R.
Stephens, Casaubon, Salmasius, Ilerbelot, S6viign4y Du Cange, Mbnt-
faucon, Le Sage, Fontenelle, Maimontel, Didero^ St Pierre, Vomey, De
Sacy, Champollion, Chateaubriand, LaBruybre, La Rochefoucauld, Talley-
rand, Hugo, Dumas, Musset, Bal^c, De Block, Eugene Sue, Lamartine.
Form of Oovemment, Army and Navy, Public Debt, Bevenne and
Expenditure. — The French Revolution, overthrowing the Monurdhy,
commenced in 1789. Napoleon Buonaparte was proclaimed Empenv
in 1804, and finally abdicated in 1815. Louis Philippe b^iame King
of the French in 1830, but abdicated in 1848, when Fntnoe became
a Republic with Louis Napoleon, nephew of Napoleon the Qreat^
as its President. In 1852 he was declared Emperor, but his reign
came to an ignominious termination by the terrible defeat at S^ian
(September 2, 1870), and France is now once more a RepubUa TbB
Franco-German war cost this unhappy country about £560.000,000,
including a war indemnity to €rermany of £200,000,000. Previoiu
to the Great Revolution the total public expenditure of France did
not exceed £40,000,000 a-year, a sum which now barely covers the
interest on the National Debt. In 1873 the army amounted to
454,000 men, including 280,000 infantry, 60,000 oavalty, and
51,000 artillery. ^ The navy is very formidable, but is at present in
a state of transition. It was of no use to France in her hour of
peril. The revenue and expenditure in 1875 amounted to upwards
of £100, 000,000 each.
Commerce, ManufiEUstures, Exports and Imports.~France ranks
next to Britain, in regard to Ihe extent and value of her commerce and
manufactures. In 1873, the commercial marine comprised 14,687 ves-
sels, carrying 1,042,000 tons, or about a fifth part of the toima« cf
Great Bntain ; the total exports amounted to £140,000,000, ana fba
imports to £182,000,000. Her chief customer is England, her tiidi
r
213
iritktlt&t countrj having increased more thui 150 per cent since tlis
treaty of commoroe of 1860. The other principal countries are Bel-
gium, Italy, Netherlands, and Spain. In 1873, France exported to
our country goods to the value of £43,710, DOO, the chief items of which
-were dlk and ailk goods (£10,000,000), vrinea and brandy (£3,000,000);
gloves, butter, and eggs (£4000,000). In the same year France re-
ceived from Us to the value of £17,031,000, consisting mainly of wool-
len, cotton, and linen goods, coal, ejid iroo. Her principal imports
from other conntriea are raw silks, wool, sugar, cotton, wood, and
coal. With respect to maoufacturiag indostrj, France is divisible
into three regions, which, in the order of their importance, are the
northern, southern, and central. The northern towns (ceiieciallf
Bonen) are the chief seats of the cotton and woollen manufacture ;
while the linen manufacture is chieHy confined to Lille, Cambray,
and the other towns bordering on Belgium ; silk-wearing la chiefly
prosecnted at Ljon, and other cities in the vall^ of the Rhone. St
Etienne is the chief seat of the manufacture of firearms and hard-
ware. Faiis is remarkable for the great variety of its manufactnres,
wpedally articles of taste, luxury, and fashion — as jewellery, bijou-
terie, porcelain, mirrors, clocks, watches, perfumery, bonnets, gloves,
OMTiftgBS, and "Articles de Paris." The^love manufacture is one of
the most imtiortaTit branches of industry m the country, Paris being
its chief seat. Caen and Valencienaea are famous for their lace. Cam-
buy for muslin, Eeirasfor merinoes; while the mannfactures of beet-
root-sugar, wine, and brandy, are of the highest importance.
Inland Conununlcatimi. — Aa compared with Eugland and Belgium,
tUaVAT communication is still in a backward state, PreTtous to 184D,
there were but few Unea in the kiogdom. In IS54. the number of miles
oi«n for traffie was 2526, -while at the close of 1874 there were 12,420
miles in operation. Nearly all the lines are at present in the liands
Of sIe great companies, and all the grand systems railiate frum Paris, aa
a centre, to the extremities of the kingdom. ConuuencinE at the capital,
Ist, the NoRTHEB^t, proceeds to Amiens, and then bran^ea to Brussels
and Boulogne; 2d, theWESTEiiN runs to Boueii, where it forks to Dieppe,
Havre, and CherboHrg ; 3d, the Ohleiss line proceeds S.W. to Toms,
where it branches oil' to Nautca and Bordeanx; 4th, the Ltom and MflDl-
IKBSliNKAN, to Ljon and Marseille ; 6th . tha Southern, from Bordsaui
to HontpeUier ; Sth, the Eastern, from Paris to Nancy. There are now
39,000 m. of telecrrapbio wires. There are eighty -aii canals, whoso
united lantrth ia 2350 miles, and which connect all the principal rivers of
nance. The nioet important are the following : Uanal dK Midi, from
Toulouse^ on the Garonne, to the lagoon of Thou, connects the Atlautio
ftnd Mediterranean. Canal du Cmtri, from C%alonB-sur-Sa3ne to Disoia
te and RkoH^
In Bafine-et-Loire, unites the Laiie with the Rhone.
_ ..iia(, partly in the Ihie of the Doobs, unites the Ehine and Rhone.
Canal de Burgogiu, from the SaSne to the Yoone, connects the Hbone
with the Seine. Canid d» Braire, connecting the Seine with the Loire.
ThB BOAIH are divided into two clasBes— vit, Boyal and Departnientol.
Of the formar there are twenty-six, whose united length la 2i,900 miles ;
^>Bd of the latter, uinety-aenin, with a united length of S2,EiD0 — making
■total of 47,400 mUes.
1 Forslen FoBsesiloBS. — The foreign possessions of France have an
216 POLITICAL GEOGRAPUY.
Charles V. and John of Gaunt St ITicholas and Lokem are also chief
seats of the cotton manufacture. Oadenarde, celebrated for the victory
gained by the Duke of Marlborough and Prince Eugene over the French,
in 1708. Antwerp {Fr, Anvers), a large and very strongly fortified city
on the Scheldt, and the chief emporium of Belgian commerce, contains a
noble cathedral, many valuable works of art, and extensive manufactures,
the chief of which are silk and cotton hosiery : in the 13th and 14th cen-
turies it was the wealthiest and most commercial city in Europe. Hera
died the illustrious Rubens in 1640, and it is the birthplace of Jordaens,
Vandyk, and Teniers. Mechlin {Fr. Malines), on the Dyle, and at the
intersection of several railways, is a place of great trade, especially in flax,
com, and oil. Idege (Z). Luyk, v. Ltlttich), a fortified and populous
city on the Maas, is called the Birmingham of Belgium, on account of its
vast ironworks and extensive coal-mines ; long celebrated for the manu-
facture of arras, which it largely exports to foreign governments. V«r-
viers, noted for its woollen cloth, soap, and dye-works. Hny (We)^ a
fortified town, with a college, ironworks, several factories, and an active
trade in com, is the burial-place of Peter the Hermit. ITamnr, a fortified
city at the confluence of the Maas and Sambre, is celebrated for its cut-
lery : it has extensive manufactures of iron, steel, and bronze articles : its
cathedral is one of the finest in Belgium : in the vicinity are rich mines
of coal, iron, lead, and copper. Mens, a fortified city on the Haine, witii
numerous coal-mines in the vicinity, Toumay, a strongly fortL&ed city
on the Scheldt, has a royal factory for the manufacture of Brussels car-
pets. Charleroi, a celebrated fortress which has been taken by the Frendi
no less than six times, lies near the centre of an extensive and valuable
coal-field ; is well situated both for manufactures and trade. Flennu :
various sanguinary battles took place in its vicinity in 162S, 1690, 1794,
and 1815. Fontenoy, a village five miles S.E. of Toumay, memorable as
the place where, in 1745, the British were defeated by the French.
Brussels {Fr. Bruxelles), capital of Belgium, is adorned with many &ie
buildings, fountains, and public walks of ^ksX beauty. It is tiie chief
seat of public instruction, contains a university, and numerous other
literary and scientific institutions, and is noted for book-printing, es-
pecially its cheap reprints of French works. Brussels was long cele-
brated for its carpets and lace, but the former branch of manufacture has
now greatly declmed. Bmssels is an ancient city, having been founded
probably in the seventh century : was the residence of the Di^es of Bra-
bant, and afterwards of the Spanish and Austrian governors-general of
the Netherlands. Louvain, once the seat of a famous university, now
replaced by a Boman Catholic college. Waterloo, a village 9 miles 8. of
Brussels, famous for the great battle fought near it, June 18, 1815, be-
tween the French under Napoleon I., and the British under the Dnke of
Wellington, when Napoleon was utterly defeated. ''^™<11<Aff : here the
Duke of Marlborough defeated the French, 23d May 1706. Qvatra Brai,
a village 10 miles S. of Waterloo, and the scene of an indecisive action
between the French and the British (with their allies), 16tii June 1815,
in which the Duke of Brunswick fell. Ligny. a village 14 miles W.N,W.
of Namur, celebrated for a battle between the Proiuians and French,
16th June 1815.
River-Basins. — The Maas (Fr, Meuse) and the Scheldt (Fr,
Escant) are the only rivers of Belgium that deserve attentioin. TIm
former has a total length of 580 miles, and the latter of 811 mllM ;
but only a part of their course belongs to this kingdom. Of tii0
I
Kftomc
VcobI-I
■ tons
EBLOIL-M. 217
nine capitals of provinoea above enumeiBtcd, three belong to the
Maaa — yia., lAhne, Nttmnr, and Arion ; aud fivB to the Scheldt —
viz., Antwerp, Ghent, Brassela, Hassolt, and Mona. For the table
of rivers ana tawns, epa under " KetherkndB," where the complete
rirer-Bjetein of both countries will be found.
The CUiDEite is in senernl temperate, mild, and ajrreeable, but
humid in the K and N. W. The mean temperature of the year at
BrusBols ia 60°.l, winter 38°, aummer 61° Fair. ; the range ot tem-
perature ifl very great — the estteaie heat being 91°.0, and eitreme
cold 3° below zero. The prevailing winds are &om the S.W.j and
the annual fall of rain ia about 26 inches.
Geolofy and Btaerala.—TettiaTy format iona cover the whole N.W.
and centre; but iu the E. and S. corboniferoua and Devonian strata
prevail, containing many ejrtensivo and valuable coal-fields, especially
In the provinces of Hainanlt, Nunur, and Li^ge. The minerals are
~ nerouB and highly important, embracing coal and iron, which are
>ught most eitensively around Mona. Liige, and Charleroi : S3
coal-beds are enumerated, which yield aiinnally abont 10,000,000
tons of coal, a third of which is exported t« France, whose entire
eoal-Gelds are inferior to those of Namur alone. With the exception
ot England, Belgium is the beat coal-producing country iu Europe.
Liftge alone produces 200,000 tana of iron annually ; and many
other iroD-mines are wrought between the Maas and the Sambra.
Oilier minerals are, copper in Haiuault and Li^ge; lead in Lillge,
Niuunr, and Luxembourg ; calamine, or carbonate of zinc, in Natnut,
Li^, aud Hainault; idso manganese, solphnr, alum, slate, and
bnilding-stonc, and several other useful minerals.
Botany, Aaricnltnre, and Zoology. — The indigenoua vegetation of
Belpuni differs so little from that of the north of France and the
•outh of England, tliat it is onnecesaary to describa it. Among the
forest-trees are the oak, chestnut, beech, elm, ash, walnut, Hr, and
poplar. Agriculture ia in « highly flourishing state, and haa lon){
served aa a model to neighbouring countries. The soil is not natu
ally fertile, as it generally consists of either sand or clay, but t .
■kill and industry of the hnshandman have so judiciously mixed J
these ingredients that Belgium may now be regarded aa the richest 1
and mmt productive country in Europe. The rotation of crops ie .1
carefully attended to ; artiiicial man urea are largely employed ; ami. I
the result is, that though the country is bo densely peopled, tha .1
qnanti^ ot com raised ia double that reqaired for home consomp- A
tion. Seven-eightbs of the entire surface are under cultivation, and j
the remainder yields excellent timber for bark and bnilding purpoaolk m
Clover fonns an extendve article of larmiug and the chief food otV
the cattle, wliich are usually atall-fed, ihe seed being exported tof
England. The flax is of an sxcallent quality, and is also largely 4
. . rm g ^jjjg jg nuitivated on the banks of the Uaas, but the ,
1 is 01 an inferior quality. Hops, beetroot (for sugar), chicon',
toleooo, are grown in the central provineeg ; potatoes, flii, oil-
, nnd mftddcr, in Fludcrt ; and wheat, rye, barley, oats, and
220 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
pets, cutlery, nails, and re&ned sugar. Among the principal mana-
factured articles may be enumerated Brussels carpets, which are
unrivalled for elegance ; fine lace and thread, made from the finest
flax, so valuable that it sometimes fetches £400 sterling x>er pound ;
damask table-linen, and other linen cloth, paper, oil-cloth, India-
rubber articles, musical instruments, embroidery, ribbons, hats, and
various other articles enumerated among the exports. Both as
regards exports and imports, its chief customers are France, England,
Netherlands, and Germany. The articles sent to England are silk
manufactures to the value of nearly £2,250>000, flax, yam, and dairy
produce, amounting, in 1873, to £8,250,000. We send to it, in
return, woollen stuffs and machinery, to the value of £2,000,000.' At
Seraing, near Li^ge, is one of the most extensive ironworks in
Europe, employing 5000 artisans : here are manufactured cannons,
firearms, steam machinery, and locomotives.
Inland Communication. — Considering its size, Belgium is better
fumiahed with Railways than any other European country.
From Mechlin, as the centre of the entire system, one main line pro-
ceeds S.W. by the capital to Mons, and then to France, where it con-
nects with the Great Northern to Paris ; a second S.E. to Li^e and
Cologne ; a third N. to Antwerp and Rotterdam ; a fourth W. by Ghent
and Bruges to Ostend. Another main line connects Antwerp, Ghent,
Toumay, and Lille (in France) ; and the only other we can specify unites
Courtrai, Mens, Namur, and Libge. These various lines have been con-
structed at the expense of the Government, and have powerfully contri-
buted to develop the internal resources of the country. In 1874, the
number of miles open for traffic was 2105, yielding a clear revenue of
£3,000,000. The country is also largely intersected by excellent Canals^
many of which admit merchant vessels. The chief of these are the Bruges
and Ghent Canal, which communicates with those of Damme and Ostend
at Bruges, and at Ghent with another canal, which proceeds north to the
estuary of the East Scheldt ; and those which connect the Maas with the
Scheldt — amounting together to nearly 300 mUes. The two principal
rivers, the Maas and Scheldt, are navigable through the whole Belgun
territory. The public Roads are also numerous, broad, and well paved.
Belgium has no Foreign Possessions, Holland having retained all the
colonies when, in 1830, the two counliies were disjoint
HOLLAND, OR THE NETHERLAimS.
Position and Boundaries. — The Kingdom of the Nether-
lands is bounded on the N. and W. by the North Sea, S. by
Belgium, and E. by Prussia ; but the Grand-Duchy of Luxem-
bourg,'^ properly belonging to Qermany, lies S; E. of Belgium,
between Belgian Luxembourg and the Moselle. Lat. 49° 26^—
53'' 34' N. ; or, omitting Luxembourg, lat 60*» 46'— 53* 34' N.;
Ion. 3° 24'— 7' 12' E.
* In case of war, this province is neutral, under fhe proteetion off fto Oieil
Powers.
EOLLASD, OB THE NETHERLANDS, 221
Aiiistorda.m,thecommerciii1 capital, neartbecentre.isn eaily ontbesainc'
parallel nf latitude as Tralea, Cambridge, HanOTer, Berlin, and Warsaw ;
and oa the same meridian as Bnissata, Lj^oa, and Minorca. The form
approachea a rhombeid, with deep inrtentatiDna at the three angles washed
b; the sea. Length of east side, 187 miles; breadth along the Eelgian
mmtler, 117 mJes, The coast-lina is extremely irregular, especially in
the N., where the eea has made serious eaci«achments on the land.
Length, inclnrimg the larger itidentivtioas, about 600 miles, or 1 mile of
coast to each 27 miles of surface.
Am and Papulation.— Including Limbourg and Luxcmboarg,
the area is 22,11B aq. milea, or nearly thrice the size of Wales. Popu-
lation (in 1873) 3,913,600, beiag 275 persons to each aq. mile:' The
neitem provincea (N. and Id. Holland) ars the most populous parts
of the kingdom, and i^ontain the largest towns ; wbilc Drenthe, in
the H.E,, partly oi^cnpied by heath and waste land, is the least
popnlouB.
Political Divisions.— Holland is divided into 12 provinceB,
JDcluding the two diiuhieB of Limbourg and Luxembourg.*
Vorth HoUand.t— Akstehdau 2S1 (Anistel and Y), Haarlem 31 n.,
Zaandam or Baardam 12 |Y), Alkmaarll, Haider 20 (Great Canal), Hoom
10 (Zuvder Zea).
r™™ Wieam SOOO nsd JO.OOT MJlatimnU.-menwe^Ainatel, Eukliiitien.
Boath Holland.— The Haqcb 93, Delft 22 (Bchie Canal), LoyJen 40
(Old Rhine], Schiedam 20, Rotterdam 123, Dart 2G (Maas), Gouda 15
(Rhine, I'liel branch).
Brlalle, Tlaudingen. Gorkmo.
Zeeland.- Mn)Di.EBCiia 16, Flushing 11 (W. Scheldt),
KoTtli Brabant.- Boia-LK-Duo 2S (Dommel), Breda 15 (Merl:), TilbuiK
2i(Gt. Aa).
ntrecht.— IItrecht 60 (Old Rhine), Ajnersfoort 14 (Bern).
• The Repnblio of the Seen Upitad Prorincoa, >a rtlobrated in history, woi
rmed bj tJie Lcitfua of U'
lecht, QoIderlaDiT, OverjfH
LXda added, by conqnoat or
1, Alkmasr, also s^bUeA HsDrlem, Allimui
mir-dtni.
CoBioHian lEMvnr-dln).
— loom (HOm).
temtndienbWB,
I Oemiiii, or nil:
i; uZadudfT
i Hooni (Sltn}.
GMrtodienbwg, Zn jder Zee (Uer-frj'iJBi-fterii
ill _ t in OwUah ; u Z^uid (Tiee'limf j.
.fer M VbiSbt WiflrUt).
■■1 Bohoit, ectaiediun {ShO, Sku-dan-i.
222 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Gelderland.— Arnhem S3 (Rhine), Nimeguen 23 (Waal), Zutphen 15
(Yssel).
Thiel, Harderwyk, Nykerk.
OverysseL— ZwoLLE 21 (Zwarte- Water), Kampen 15, Deventer 17
(Yssel).
Raalte, Enschede.
Friesland.— Leeuwabden 25, Harlingen 10 (Leeuwarden Canal).
Franeker, Sneek.
Groningen.— Groninoen 37 (Hunse).
Drenthe.— AssEN 5 (Hoom Diep), Meppel 7 (Reest).
Dutcli Limbonrg.— Maestricht 28 (Maas).
Venlo, Ruremonde, Weert.
Luxembourg (S.£. of Belgium). — LnxEMB0UBal5(AIzette,a^. Moselle).
Descrlptiye Notes. — There are only two towns in the Nether-
lands that contain upwards of 100,000 inhabitants (Amsterdam, Rot*
terdam); two between 100,000 and 50,000 (The Hague, Utrecht);
fourteen between 50,000 and 20,000 (Leyden, GrSningen, Amheim,
Haarlem, Maestricht, Leeuwarden, Bois-le-Duc, Dordrecht, Nime-
guen, Delft, Zwolle, Tilburg, Schiedam, Holder) ; andtwelye between
20,000 and 10,000.
Amsterdam, the capital, and by far the lai^est city in the kin^om, at
the confluence of the Amstel with an arm of the Zuyder Zee, is one of
the most important commercial cities in Europe. It is built of bricks,
in the form of a crescent, and supported by piles of wood driven into the
alluvial soil. In the middle of the thirteenth century it was merely a
collection of fishermen's huts, but it now contains 265,000 inhabitants,
and is a place of great wealth. Here are vast storehouses filled with the
most valuable products of both hemispheres, immense shipbuilding docks,
and numerous literary and scientific institutions. It is a great deiwt
for the commodities of the East and West Indies, with whicn it carries
on an extensive trade through the Dutch colonies and its own trading
companies. Haarlem is the centre of the Dutch trade in bulbous roote
and flower-seeds, grown in extensive nursery-grounds in the vicinity ; it
has numerous manufactures, chiefly cotton and bleaching ; and is memor-
able for the siege it sustained against the Spaniards in 1572. The cathe-
dral of St Bavon contains the largest organ m Europe, and in the mariwt-
place stands the statue of Lawrence Coster, a native of the town, and the
reputed inventor of the art of printing (1440). ZaAndam, where Peter
the Great, of Russia, wrought as an artisan in the dockyard. Hoom, the
birthplace of Tasman, who discovered New Zealand and Tasmania, and
of Schouten, who discovered Cape Horn. Alkmaar, a fortified town on
the Great Canal ; near it Camperdown, off which Admiral Duncan de-
feated the Dutch fleet under De Winter. Helder, a strong fortress at the
north extremity of the province, commands the principal entrance to the
Zuyder Zee. The Hague, the usual residence of the King and States-
General, may be regarded as the political capital. It is handsomely
built, has a rich gallery of Dutch paintings, and is the birthplace <»
Huyghens the mathematician, and of William IH. of England. Ddffc,
long famous for its earthenware, the birthplace of the celebrated Hugo
Grotius, critic and commentator. Gk)uda is celebrated for its cheese and
tobacco-pipes, which are largely exported. Leyden, the literary oapital,
has a celebrated university, founded in 1575, much resorted to by sta«
dents from other countries, and has the most extensive linen and wooUn
i
HOLLAND, OE THE NETHERLANDS. 223
Tnanufar'tureB in the conntry. Schiedam, noted for its gin or hollanila.
Which is largely diatiiied here. Sotterdam, the eecond city of Holland
Id rt^rd to population, wealth, and comnierciai importance, ia more
favuumblyBituated for commerce than Amsterdam: has numerous canals
intersectiag the city in all directions, and capable of sdmittina; tha
lai^at merchant veaaela : here are nninerona mann&ctories and cufftil-
IsriiM of gin, aiiil more Englisii residents than in any other city in the
Vingdoni : it ia the birthplace of Eraamua, the restorer of letters in
Westom Europe. Dort, or Doidrecht, was at one time the capital of the
SotherlandB, and tlie original reaidence of the Counts of HoUand : here
was held the firat meeting of the Statca-General in 1572, vrliich declared
the independence of tbe United Froviuces, and the still mors famous
eccieaiaatical synod in 1618, which condemned the doctrines of Arminina.
Uddelbnrg, near the centre of the island Walcheren, and TluaMng, or
- VHaaiDgBn, in the south, are strongly fortified seaports, with conaidar-
able trade: Flushing has tnagnificcnt docks and magaanea; was bom-
barded by the Enjllsh in 1809; and is tbe birthplace of Admiral Da
Rnyter. Bcis-la-Dnc, a fortified city at the junction of the Dommel and
Aa, has numerous manufautures of linen, called kntland. Brsda, cele-
brated for the association of nobles formed in 1566, and called "Tha
CoiDpromise of Breda," and for the congress of 1667, has a military aca-
demy and arsenal, and is one of the strongent fortresses in tha kinedom,
ntlMht, the oldest city in the kingdom, contains a flonriahing univer-
sity; it ia also noted for the "Act of Confederation " of 1570, and for
the treaty of peace which terminated the wars of the Spauish Sueoesaion
in 1713. Himegnea, famous for the treaty of 1678 between Prance, Eng.
I land, and Holland. Zutphen, where the brave Sir Ptiilip Sidney receiri^
L his (Jeath-wonnd in 1586. Zwolle : nearit is the convent where the cola-
Idinted Thomaa-ii-Kempis died in 1471. Leanwardan contains the tombs
Kft the Princes of Orange. OrBnii^eii, n fortified well-built town, has a
ntmiveniity and nnmerons other literary institutions. Maastricht is
itrongly fortified, and has manufactures of cottons, wooHena, and paper.
In the neighbouring hill of St Peter's are immense underground stona
qnatrtes. twelve leagues in circumference, traversed by about 20,000 pas-
sages intersecting in all directious. and forming an intricate labyrinth.
In time of war the inhabitants of the surronnding country, with their
eattlB. find here a secure asylum. Laiembonrg, capital of the Grand-
Dnchy of the same nanie, has a fortress of great strength, wliich was
taken by Louis XIV. in 1684.
Cftpei and Iilaiiils.—IIeMer Point, the N. extremity of North Hol-
land 1 tha Hook of Holland, W. of South Holland. Iblabbs.— One
group at the entrance of the Zuyder Zee, formerly all continuous,
and forming a part of the mainlanil, but now broken up into the
islands of Texel, Tlielaud, Ter-Schelling, Amelanil, Schiermonni-
koogi Borkum, and Wieringen ; the other in the delta of the Mans
and Scheldt, and consisting of 'Walcheren, H. and 9. Beveland,
Tbolen, Schonwen, all in province Zeeland ; and Over-Fkkkee,
Voome, Bejerlaad, and Tsselmouda, in S. Holland.
Sbu, Bb;>, fto.— The Dollart, between Grdningen and Hanover;
lAuwraZae, N.E. oCFnealand; Zuyder Zee,* E. of North Holland;
-*« time the Zuj'^eT Zee oonslstf d of an Inlani. lain named Flevo. ani]
?24 POLITICAL OEOGRAFUY.
the y, a branch of the Zuyder Zee, in the S. W. comer ; estuaries of
the lUiine, Maas, and Scheldt, five in number, in South Holland
and Zeeland ; Strait of Helder or Mars Diep, between the Helder
and TexeL
SnrflEU^ — ^Among the most striking features of this country are its
utter want of mountains, the perfectly level aspect of the greater
portion of the surface, and the strange unnatural-looking depression
of the remainder, which in many places is greatly beneath tlie level
of the sea — thus originating the characteristic name of the country,
Holland, signifying the **low country." These low portions are in
some places protected from the inroads of the ocean by natural bar-
riers of sand-downs, and in others by enormous artificial dykes of
earth, faced with stones which have to be imported from other coun-
tries. These dykes rank amongst the most stupendous efforts of
human industry to be found in any country. Tlie country requires
to be protected in a similar manner from the inundations of the
rivers, the beds of which are generally above the level of the land.
River-SasinB. — There are few distinct river-basins in Holland, as
the waters of the Rhine, Maas, and Scheldt, its principal rivers,
intermingle at their estuaries, and thus in reality form but one basin.
The Vecht and the Hunse are the only other rivers of the kingdom
dcser\'ing attention. The basins of the,se five rivers contain ten out
of the twelve capitals of provinces, leaving only the Hague and
Leeuwarden, which stand on canals that answer all the purposes
of rivers.
Table of Rivers and Towns. — The towns of Belgium and the
Netherlands given in the following table, in all 112 of 6000 inha-
bitants and upwards, include 53 above 10,000. These stand on 4S
rivers (and canals), of which 12 enter the sea directly, the remainder
being their affluents. All the rivers enter the North Sea.
Riven. Tovcng. \ Rivers. Totofu.
Hunse, Groninoek.
Hoom-Diep, Assen.
Leeuwarden H a r 1 i n ge n, Franeker^
Moselle, I ..Treves.
Sure, { ...EchUmaeh,
Alzette, LuxEMBouaa
Canal, Leeuwardkn. , CoGelderland^JJorderiDylc, Nyherk^
Vecht, Ensehede.
Zwarte, Zwolle.
Reest, MeppeL
lUiine*, Eaiiipen,i7aaZte, Devent-
er, Zutphen, Amster-
dam, Leyden,UTRECHT,
Arnhem, Gonda, Gor-
kum, Thiel, Nim^uen.
Eem, Amersfoort
Anistel or Y, . JLmbtebdax, JT. Anut^
n., Zaandam, Haarlem.
Zuyder Zee, ..Hooni, EnUwiaen, Hel-
den
Great Canal, . .Helder, Alkmaar.
Schie Canal, ..The Haouk, Delft
MaasorMease^iMiUe, Vlaardingen,
North Sea; but in 1282 a broad strait was formed (now the Strait of Helder) and
the lake converted into a large arm of the sea. The Dollart, formed in 1877, the
Bies Bosch in 1421, and Lake of Haarlem, owe their origin to limilAr inundatiooiii
one of which is said to have overwhelmed seventy viUagea^ contaiDing lOOlOOO
inhabitanta
• For the ftOl development of the Rhine, see under "Gennany," u onljtba
portion belonging to Holland and Belgium is given here. The Maas and Booaldt
are given here in full.
nOLLANP, OE TE
E KETBEELAKDS. 525
«^.
t™*,.
JiiUH-I.
7-',.™.,
ytu orUeniie Schiedim. liocterdnni.
Bulieidt—
Don, G>«4i»., V^nb,.
btsi.
^
£w>?n. HscUiiL, I^cv^ii,
KiHDfL Dinoni. Oitwli
-LiOT^fftarf.
Obulevine, XuiBBEB.
TuiBliml,
Sednn. VBrtim, SI J(^
Tiet*.? ,.
BBB^e,!
'. riimirtj. Bbotbei*. HoI,
^anee.l..
Jfwrfiu. '^' ^^""^
.BoXid.(
iBDlB-tfc-D^
DemflT.
.I>«AH««ji.
jU.....
.»-«rt.
fStTranda, Tirlmont.
&itMi.M,iTainm.
rovTBe, i
Xern,....
.Glsd^ieli, VleteED.
D«iid«;..
. DcKAirni onO^tlatt,
JI*,Leiiie.
imrm.
Ij..!..,-
. CDurtrai. Men!n, TTrr-
■Warm,
.Aix-li-ClmpeUe.
Jur.I....
.n«iB«.
Ourtho,-.
-LlH.1!-
T«d«.
a . Mtmae, Airt.
Baiitee.i
. Nawob, Oitlf. Chnrlorot
AlLUIH.
JUnfld,
Tliielt, MrvltbtH. In-
«_b™oj,-.
&s~- '-"-
—
-(:»iE.,Z«ritzofii..fl»r-
Deule,
.Ronbsli n,, Lille. Cht-
IWTMjy-Zoim.. MlDML-
.hSSIS?''^'™*
K
wc^p, Bt b^^cilu,
!«»•>,,..
Thfmiche, Ile«dt<-
B^T".;
immdo.ZoIeiL.iraUBr-
>dn<^H,H<sii.K«A>.
edle, '-.!-'
./;«l«>a?t. L> COUw
K
^^TcluMj.iVn;
OoMDa CuuJ, 0>n«iil, Beuou.
WlZQ.. Ci»uU..AwiB.
Thh.
.n«wvuL
P
T,:»d.s,..
.Tp™.
I^kss. — Done of unpartance sinct Lake Hnarlem (m North HoUiomI)
otBi of 36 sq. niile<i. But there an BcineTaug umaJl lakeR is FriealaDd,
u Plii»»n Heer, Slote Meer, Boeelier Meer, snd Berjmn Meet. Forty
■mdl lakes in North Holluid, and as maij in BonUi Holland, hna Iwen
imtture-land, caDed yi^iderj, havethue teeu xeelniiuBd.— Sea under "Seaa
nod Bays."
CUmate. — The climate of Holland is raw, damp, cold, foRgy, and
pitiemelj diBogrpealjle to foreigners. The winds blow intessantlj,
aa if consciona that they have a twofold duty to perform— to carry dB 1
the stagnant Tapoura, and to keep several thooBuida of wlndiiiilli ia I
eonstant ODeiahon. It not unfrequently blows a perfect hurricaiw J
>r S.W., OTerwhelming the land with foga injurions *"
. on, and tlireatening to overthrow every huJwark which t
3 of contm-ies have erected. The mean annual temperature
__!rdamU *B°.8; oCwintar, 36*.B; and of summer, 6*".4. Anno
],SStncheB; number of rainy daya, 170. The wintere are serei .
sky beinK geueraUy DVBrcaBt, bright days rarely exceeding 40 in
ywr. TBongh Ettle mow falls, the trasto are intense ; the Zuydm
226 POUTICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Zee is frequently frozen over in January, and the Great Heldei Canal
for ttiree months in the year.
Geology and Minerals. — The rocks consist almost ezclusively of
tertiary and super-tertiary strata, except in Luxembourg. Except in
Limbourg and Dutch Luxembourg, coal is absent, and stones oi
any size are rarely seen in the soiL Minerals comprise immense de-
posits of turf: potter's clay, brick-clay, fuller's earth, and a little
bog-iron, are found, but there are no other minerals. Building-stones
are imported from Norway for the erection of piers, and for facings to
the immense earthen dykes. The houses are usually built of brick,
and of timber from the German forests, which is conveyed down the
Rhine in immense rafts, varying from 700 to 1000 feet in length,
from 50 to 90 in breadth, and directed by some hundreds of labourers,
w^o construct a village of timber huts on its surface.
Botany, Agriculture, and Zoology. — The botany of the Nether-
lands is much the same as in other European countries under the
same latitude ; but, as might have been expected, aquatic plants are
more varied and numerous than elsewhere, and though there are no
natural forests, plantations of oak, elm, beech, &c, are by no means
rare ; while the numerous lines of canal are usually lined with rows
4)f willows and poplars. Agriculture forms but a subordinate branch
of rural industry, as the country is naturally better adapted for pas-
turage than for com crops, the latter being usually quite insufficient
for home consumption. The principal grain crops are rye, buck-
wheat, barley, and oats, together with some wheat in the southern
provinces. Horticulture has attained a high degree of perfection,
especially at Haarlem, which largely exports flower-roots and seeds.
Other important crops are potatoes, flax, hemp, rape-seed, dover-
seed, madder, chicory, mustard, hops, beetroot, and tobacco. Live
stock and dairy produce are exportea very extensively, as also poul-
try and honey. Zoology : Few wild animals are found except the
rabbit and hare, which are largely exported to London ; waterfowl
and reptiles are very numerous; storks and swans consider this
country their home and their paradise ; fish of various kinds abound
on the coasts — as cod, turbot, sole, and other flat fish ; there are ex-
tensive herring-fisheries, and numerous whale-ships annually visit
the Greenland seas.
Ethnograpliy. — The population of the Netherlands belongs ez-
clusively to the Teutonic stock.
The four prevailing langtiages belong to the German branch of the Teu-
tonic family, and are all closely allied to tlie German. The chief of these
is the Dutch, which is the national language, and which ia spoken by all
classes of society. It is merely a dialect of the Flemish, and is rooken in
N. Brabant, both languages having been originally the same, but we Patch
proper having been far more carefolly cultivated. The JFmtie spoken tnr
the uneducated classes in Friesland, Heligoland, and parts of Prussia, u
more nearly allied to the Hoch Deutsch, or moaem German ; and lastly,
the German, spoken in Dutch Luxembourg. About two-thiids of tba
population are Protestants, and cme-third Roman Catholics. The Daioli
Reformed Church, by far the most nmneroiia body of ProtertMtl
HOLLAND, OU THE NETUEKLANDS. 23T
{1,942,000), is Calviniatio in doctrine and Presbyterian in eovcmmenC;
ioA the ouier most important denaminationa are tlia LnthersJis, whu
smountto 64,000, and Jews 63,000. AU forms of religion are freely
tolerated, and all denomiimtions placed on a perfect level. Primary edu-
catijn Is conducted by tlia GoyenuuBnt, and is generally diffused, tliere
being one-eighth nf the papniatton Eonatantlyntlsiiding school, aniioearly
every cMld above ten years of age being able to read and write. The
teachers are well paid, the fees are lovr, and tlie children of the poor are
taught gratnitonsly. There are three univeraitiea— vii., those of Leyden,
[Itrecht, and Griiningen, the professors of which are paid by the State,
The Dntch are proverhia! for their cleaulineas, frUBatity, industry, and
Bttentian to baame.'ia; they are also distinguished for their love of bee-
dom, of national iDdependance, and for their courage and nautical skill.
ThoBRh aanally of a dull, phlegmatic temperament, tliey are charitable to
the poor, faithful in all .the domestio relations, and hiehly virtuous.
Hollsod may he called the China of £urope in reganl to the industry of
the inhabitants, and mendicity Is prahihited throughont the kingdom.
Literature, — Ever since the revival of learning in "Western Europe,
the Datch have distinptished themselves in airaost every department
of knowledge, but more especially in philology, criticism, and theo-
logy. Of tne vast number of learned men to whom the Netherlands
have given birth, the following ato a few ot the most illustrioiis : —
Pobtet: Johannes Secnndus or Everai-d, James van Catz, Vondel,
Caspar, Brandt, William Biiderdvk. Paintiso : John van de Meer,
Bumamed "The Old," bom 1627; another ot the same name, styled
" The Younger," famous for liis psatoral soenea, bom 1665 ; W. and D.
Schellinga, Mmboreh, Jansaens, Moor. History : Dousa, Paul Meruk,
HouBins, Bondam. JnHiBFKUDENOB ; Vinnen, Leeuwen, Meerman,
GrotinB. PhTbtcaL Science : John and Zachary Janaen, Huyghens,
Almeloveen, Kuysch, Lenwenhoeck, Swommordam, Sylvius, Boerliaave,
Van Swieten, Gaubins, Camper, Van Swinden, Bragmans, S'Gravesande.
BIctTAL SOIENCE ; Spinorn, Helvetius. Philolooi ; Heinains. Golius,
Leiudeii, Schrevelins, Perizonius, Burman, Hemsterhusius, Wetstein,
Oadandorp, Valkeuaer, Kuhnken, Lennep, Wytt*nbach, Tollius, Sluiter.
Ounoieu : Erasmits <bom 1167), Erpeuius, Diaalus, Honralua, Orono-
vioB, Cleiicna, Bos, Hoogeveen, Hngo Orotius. Thiolooy : Atminins,
Gomar. Episoopins, Jansenins, Cocoeiiia, Philip van Limborch, Witsiua,
Gerard Bnmdt, Viliinga, Voetius,
HUtOTT, QoTenunant. Flnaucea, Ac. — Holland is a constitutiojjnl
hereditary monarchy. The lepslative power is vested in the king
Had two ohambers caller] the States-General, one of which consists
of deputies elected by the people every three years, and the other
of members nominated by the Crown for life. The reining sovereign
is William 111., who aicanded the throne in 1849. From the year
1000 to the end of the eleventh century, Holland was divided into
~ ~ ' , counties, and imperial cities ; was subject to the Counts ot
1 till 13S3, and then Co the Counts of Burgundy; became part
mpire of (Carles V. in 1G4S ; descended to his son Philip, and
an appanage to tho crown of Spain ; suffered severe reueious
...cntionsm con sequence ; snccessfmly asserted ita independenao
■ 1679, nnder William, Prince of Orange, and assumed the name of
"Seraii United ProvinoeK;" was conqaered hy tlie Fre&ch ia
228 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
1793, who established the Batavian Kepublic ; was formed into a
kingdom by Napoleon I., for his brother Louis, in 1806 ; became a
department of France in 1810 ; was united to Belgium in 1813, under
the name of the Kin^om of the Netherlands, and this arrangement
subsisted till 1830, when Belgium became an independent monarchy;
and, finally, by the treaty of London (1839), Belgium ceded to Hol-
land the eastern parts of Limbourg and Luxembourg. The European
Army in 1874 numbered 61,776 men and officers. The Nwvy con-
sists of 84 steamers, and 16 other ships, carrying 673 guns. The
Fuhlic Debt, in 1874, amounted to £77,276,000, being about £21 ster-
ling to each inhabitant ; the Revenue to £7,811,000 ; and the Expen-
diture to £8,060,585.
Commerce and Manufactures. — Commerce has ever been the most
important element in the prosperity of the Netherlands. At one
time it exceeded that of any other European State, and her foreign
trade still remains inferior only to that of Great Britain. Her
relative position with respect to other States, and her wonderful sys-
tem of water-conmiunication, have been the main causes leading to
this result. In 1872, the exports amounted to £38,788,000 in
value ; of which £13,108,924 were sent to the United Kingdom, con-
sisting chiefly of butter, cheese, live animals, oilcake, gin or hol-
lands, bulbous roots, flower-seeds, linen, and refined sugar. The
imports in the same year amounted to £50,000,000, of which
£17,500,000 came from the British Isles, the principal articles being
cotton and woollen manufactures. Her other principal exports are
the products of her own colonies (as coflee, sugar, raw cotton, spices,
tobacco, dried fruits, and tortoise-shell), which she exchanges for the
corn, manufactured goods, wool, wines, and brandy of other European
countries. Next to Britain her best customers are North Germany,
Belgium, France, and Spain. In 1872, the number of vessels that
entered and cleared was 1902, carrying 444,273 tons. The prin-
cipal manufactures are linen, paper, woollen and silk cloths, gin,
tobacco, snufi", leather, coidage, saltpetre, and tobacco-pipes, togeuer
with sugar-reiining and shipbuilding.
Inland Conununlcation. — For the most part the railways have
been only recently constructed : one between Amsterdam and Haar-
lem, and thence to Leyden, the Hague, and Rotterdam ; and another
from Amsterdam to Utrecht, Arnhem, and the German frontier. In
1871, the number of miles open for traffic was 1,033. The Canals are
very numerous, and unrivalled in magnificence. They are found
along all the great dykes which serve as barriers to the ocean, and
have generally an excellent road beside them. The following are
only some of the most important : — The Great Canal, between Am-
sterdam and the Helder, 61 miles long, 125 feet broad, and 24 feet
deep, admitting two frigates abreast ; the Nieuwer Sluis, between
Amsterdam and Utrecht; another from Amsterdam to Haarlem,
Leyden, Delft, the Hague, Rotterdam, and Gorkum ; and an immense
canal from Bois-le-Duc to Maestricht. Passengers are conveyed along
these canals at the rate of four miles per hour.
r
DENMARK.
DEKMABK. 229
Foreign FossesslonB. — "Wlien Holland was disiuilUd from Belgium
(in 1830), the fecmer reUiiued all thaoolacial pOBsessious, which oare
an aggregate area of 685,000 sq. m., and a population, in 1872, of
21,386,000. The African poaseasiDns consist of Tarious settlements
oa the Guinea Coast; the Asiatic dependencies comprise Java (by
fai the tnost important, with an area of £0,000 an. m., aadapap. of
17,000,000), parts of Sumatra, Bali, Lomhok, Timor, Banda, Am-
lioyna, Molutcai, Celeliea, Bomwi, the western holt of Papua, Banks,
and Bhio ; while those in South America embrace the extensive ter-
Iiitoi; of Dntiih Guiana, with the islands Cuiu{oa and St EnatatinB.
' Position and Boundaries- — N., the Skager Back, vhich
teparatea it from Norway ; W., the North Sea ; S., Bohleawig ;
IE., the Sound and Kattegat, which divide it from Sweden.
i*t. 54° 35'— 57° 45' N. ; Ion. 8= B'— 12° 35' K Copenhagen.
&e capital (lat. 55° 40'), is on the Bame parallel with Edinburgh;
dioacow, Ekaterinburg, Komtachatka, and Nain in Labrador ;
while the central meridian passes through Chriatiania, Kiel,
Gotha, Lucca, Elba, and Tunis,
Form ana Ooaat-Une.— The form ia eitreinEly irregular, consisting
of a part of the Cinibrio peninsula and various groups of islands.
Extreme length of the mainland, from the Skaw to Kibe, 140 milea j
greatest breadth, from Elsinore on the Sound to the Horn in Jutland,
ISG miles. The seaboard is veij extensive, amountiiig, if we inclnde
the islands, to abont *000 miles, of which 800 miles belong to the
mainland, which is greatly indented. The latter gives one mile uf
•saboard to every four miles of area, a ratio higher than in any
[«rantry in Europe, save Greece.
aud PopnIattOB. — As the result of the lata war between Den-
mark on the one side, and Pmssia and Austria, on the other, the
duchies of Louenburg and Schlurwig-Holstein have been wrested
from Denmark, and, by the Treaty of Prague (August 1866), have
been incorporated with ths Pmssian domiuiona. The area now
■monntB only to 14,733 aq. miles, or twice the size of Wales; but
iocluiiing Iceland and the Faiiie Isles, the whole amounts to 54,935
ftq. miles. In 1870 the population waa 1,784,741, or ISO persons
to the sq. niilo; bat inclnding Iceland and the EarSe lalea, the
popolatiaB amounted to 1,361,720.
Political Di'Tislons. — Denmark Proper ia divided into two
rinceB — viz., Jutland, or the peninsula, and the Dnniah
hipelago, between the maialand and Sweden. Iceland lies
»
230 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
700 miles W. of Norway, and 300 miles E. of Greenland ;
while the Faroe Isles are nearly midway between Iceland and
Shetland.
Jutland.*— Aalborg 10 (Lymfiord), Aarhuus 11 (Molle Aa).
Towns bettoeen 5000 and 10,000 o/pofmtotton.— Fredericia, Horseii8, Banders,
Viborg.
Danish Archipelago.— Copenhagen 181, Elsinore 8 (E. coast of Zea-
land), Odense 14 (in the north of Flinen).
Slagelse, Boeskilde, in Zealand ; Nyborg, Svendborg, in Fiinei> ; RSnne, in
Bornholm.
Iceland. — Reykiavik 1 (S.W. coast).
FarGe Isles. — Thorshaven 1 (S. coast of Strom oe).
Descriptive Notes. — Aalborg (Eeltown), near the month (»f the Lym-
fiord, deriving its name from the great number of eels found in its neigh-
bourhood, has a school of navigation, a soap-manufactory, a herring-
fishery, and steam communication with the capitaL Aarhnns and Ban-
ders, on the east coast, are small manufacturing towns with considerable
trade. Copenhagen (Dan. Kj&benhavn, ** Merchants' Haven,"), tiie
capital of Denmark since 1441, and the centre of its commerce, is a city
of 180,000 inhabitants, elegantly built on the Soimd, and s1ax>ngly forti-
fied; has an arsenal, shipbuilding docks, &c., being the sole station for
the navy ; a celebrated university, several superb palaces, most of whidi
are now converted into libraries, museums, and picture-galleries, among
which may be mentioned the Museum of Northern Antiquities, and the
Thorwaldsen Museum : Lord Nelson gained here a great naval victory
over the Danish fleet in 1801, and in 1807 it was bombarded, and the
Danish fleet taken to England. Elsinore, or Elsinenr (Dan. Hel*ingSr\
on the Sound, at its narrowest part, and only 3 miles from the Swedish
coast, having on the north the strong castle of Kronborg : here were
levied, previous to 1857, "the Sound dues" on all foreign merchant-
vessels entering or leaving the Baltic, which, in 1851, amounted to nearly
20,000 ships, yielding £154,000 of toll. Odense, the principal town in
Flinen, has manufactures of woollens and iron wares. Bocwkilde, the
cap. of Denmark till 1441. Beykiavik, the capital of Iceland, with only
1200 inhabitants, is the principal town in the island ; it is an archbishop's
* The following rales apply to Danish proper names : —
a, «, t, o^ u = the same vowels in German and Italian ; but y = German t2;
and w, which is found only in derivatives_firom the German, = English v.
oa = d in stone, as Aalboig, Aarhnus (OUborg, Or'hoosy.
doTae = ain fate, or German a, as Aeroe, Faroe (A'ro, Ft^ro}.
ie = eeia feet, or German ie, as Kiel (Keel),
io = English long tl, as Kioge, Lymfiord (Ku'ghee, LUm-iiilrth')
ei and ey = iin pine, or ei in German, as Eyder, Schlei O'der, SeKtC).
u or J/ = t2 in German, as Liimfiord or Lymfiord (Lvmrfiurthrj.
oeoT 6 = 6 ia German, as RQnne, T^nningen {Ron'ne, Ton'ning'in).
ttu = u in rale, as Aarhuus <Or'Aoo«).
d between two vowels = th in this, or like Spanish d in a similar position, as
Apenrade (Ap-en'rd'the).
g is always hard, but at the end of a word it is sounded very slightly, so as to
resemble h, as Viborg {Vee-horh).
j = y in yes, as Jlitland {YiifULnd).
n when followed by g is nasal, as Tonningen {Ton'ning-en)
V is usually = v in English, but after a it has a vowel sound, as Frederiksbavn
(Frtd-er-Vcs-haun').
pital of the Faroe leles,
Capes aoA. iBlaudB.— The Skaw, KE. of Jutland ; Horn, W. of
Jatland -, North Capo in the N.W., and Skagen in tlio S.W. of Ice-
land. Jilandi, — Zealand, Funen, Alsen, LanBeland, Aeriie, LaalanJ,
Falater, Moen, bet. Schleswig and Sweden ; Bornholm, S. of Sweden;
Anhalt and LossQe, in the Kattegat ; Iceland, E. of Greenland ; Faroe
IsieB, bet. Iceland and the Shetland IsIbb.
Iftland Ues TDD milea W. of Norvay. SOO E. ot Gnenland, and Immediately 8.
of ths Folu <^rc]s ; area, BT.SDD squtve miles ; populatiau, M.MO. The aorfacs
vholB laUnd l9 of voIbbdIc origin, cud Domnv ttum tlilrtf volcaaoes are ennine-
nted, dglit of which have been sbtlvo wltMn Iha last lundied jaata. Of thrae,
KomitHecla.fi210f^thlgh,lB the moat celebnted. There are several bolliag
■ptiDgs, oneofiAIch, Bie Great Oeysar, throwa • colnnui of hot viter ftoni BD
to IM bet hl^ and at the depth of T3 feet la SO* above the ballmg-poinL Tha
-ffintas m uvete, hat Uie meui snnnal tempeiatnre (40* Fa^.) la higher than In
■nr oQier coimtrT hi the same latitude. The island is deaUtute of trees, and no
grain at any klna esn be raised ; bnt cabbage and potatoes are cultivated. Flsb
andbinia aratJui chief aupport of tlie inhatiitanta. The Toelandeia belong to the
BcandiniTian race. Their laneuaEe, called Norse or Icelandle, Is merely old
DaalA, and la the leMt-cormpted dialect of tlia Scandinavian tuntly of tonmea.
nut only eonunercs of tlie Island conslsla In the radianse of noDl. butter, skins,
fiah, and aD. for Enropeou manufiietiireit The FatUt l3ti course ct a iroap of
twen^-twD amali lalands, tying ncArlj midway between Iceland and Sheuaod, of
irtiich eeventeen are loliablted ; uw, SIO square miles : popnlaUon, £661. They
tainooa. The winters are veiy mild ; the mmnier is moist and lOGgy ; Icngcst
day, twenty hours— shortest, four hours. Barley is Uie only grain that can be
edtlvaled. Tlia inhabilnnta, who are Scandinavians, occupy Qieniselves la Bali-
Ine, fowling, and tendiog sheep, Tborahavn, the capital, is a meie villsga.
Bays, Btrslts, and FlordH. — Slcf^er Kack, bet. Jiitland and Nor-
way ; Kattegat, bet, Jutland and Sweden ; the Sound, bet. Zealand
and Sweden ; Great Beit, bet. Zealand and Ftinen ; Little Belt, bet,
FUnenandSoMeBwig; Lymllord, Nyssuia Fiord, Kingkiobing Fiord,
in Jutland; Odenace Fiord, in Filnen; Ibs Fiord, in Zealand,
Bnl&cfl. — There are no moantains, or even bills, either on the
mainland or in the adjacent ialands ; the surface ia one uniform
plain, elevated only a few feet above tJie sea, with a few eminences
rarely exceeding 500 feet, the Himnielsberj:; alone attaining an eleva-
tion of G5Q feet. Iceland, however, ia highly mouutainoua ; Snil-
fell, 8382 feet ; Orsfajoltull, 6426 feet ; and Heola, 6210 feet. Tha
highest Humiait in the Faroe Islea nttaina an elevation of 2864 feeL
Lakes, — TheBe are eitromely niimerouB, but all of them very small ;
the most impoi'taot are MossOe and Fiel, in Jutland ; Aire and Tis,
in Zealand.
Ollm&te. — The climate ia considerably more severe than in the
British Isles, though much milder than in Germany, notwithstand-
ing its higher latitude, bnt very humid and cloudy : Gtonns are rare
ai^ of idiort duration ; average rainy days, 137 ; snowy days, S2 ;
prevailing ninda, W. in spring and auiumer, and S,^, in winter and
autumn. Mean annual temperature at Copenhagen, 16° 56' ; winter,
3r 31' i and ai
232 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Geology and Minerals. — ^The rock-formations are almost wholly
tertiary ; but small patches of secondary are found in Jutland, Zea-
land, and Bornholm; trap-rocks in the Faroe Isles, and trap and
volcanic rocks in Iceland, enclosing numerous interesting minerals,
as green-earth, galactite, lava, pitchstone, &c. Denmark is peculiarly
devoid of minerals : an inferior variety of coal, with blue marble,
potter's clay, and building-stone, are met with in Bornholm, btit
peat is the general fuel throughout the kingdom ; and sulphur, green-
earth, lava, and basalt are abundant in Iceland.
Botany and Agriculture. — The indigenous vegetation does not
differ essentially from that of N. Germany. Forests are not exten-
sive, are mostly confined to the east coast and islands, and usually
consist of ash, alder, oak, birch, beech, and fir. In Iceland, foreste
were formerly numerous, but it is now destitute of trees, except a
few stunted birches ; its flora is nearly allied to that of Scandinavia,
comprising mosses, lichens, and a few shrubs and other flowering
plants. According to Vahl and Babington, the number of flowering
plants in Iceland amounts to 414 species, of which 282 are dicotyle-
dons. Denmark is pre-eminently an agricultural country ; the soil,
almost entirely alluvial, is well adapted for cultivation. The nume-
rous marshy districts yield excellent pasturage : rearing of horses
and cattle, and dairy produce, form the chief objects of rural indus-
try. More corn is raised than is required for home consumption — ^the
principal crops being rye, barley, oats, wheat, and buckwheat ; besides
potatoes, hemp, lint, tobacco, and oats. No grain of any kind can
be raised in Iceland, but cabbage and potatoes are cultivated ; and
barley is the only grain that comes to maturity in the Faroe Isles.
Zoology. — Since the decline of the great forests the larger wild
animaLs have disappeared ; the wild-boar is sometimes met with, and
deer, stags, roes, hares, foxes, martens, polecats, rats, and other
small quadrupeds, are abundant Among birds may be mentioned
the eider-duck, so famous for its down, the wild-goose, partridge,
snipe, and thrush ; swans in the Lymfiord ; eagles and vultnres are
rarely seen. Fishes comprise the stromming — a small but much-
prized species of herring — ^turbot, torsk, and salmon. Oyster-banks
occur on the east coast of Jutland, and seal-fish on the island of
Anholt ; the cod, salmon, and whale fisheries of Iceland and the
Faroe Isles are extensive.
Ethnography. — The Danes, or Normans, belong to the Scandina-
vian branch of the Teutonic family, and speak Danish, a Scandina-
vian tongue closely allied to the Icelandic, Swedish, and FarGese.
The Icelandic, or Norse, also called the Scandinavian Proper, is
merely old Danish, and is the least-cornipted dialect of the Scandi-
navian family of tongues ; but its pronunciation is harsher than the
Danish, which is, perhaps, the softest language in Europe — the con-
sonants being pronounced so softly as to be ahnost imperceptible.
Rdigion, Education, and National Character, — Christianity became
the national religion under Canute the Great, in the beginning of the
DENMARK. 233
elcvontli century ; the Lutheran forjna the cstablialied religion, and em-
brrtres nine-tADths of Ihe populBtlon, hnt othur Becta are freely tolemteii.
Education is widely diffused, atttndanta at the primary Bchoola being
compulsory and gmtuitons ; and every adult inhabitant can read Bnrl
write. There are ahoiit 20 aefondary or higher schools distributed over
the kingdom, where fees are paid and where attendance is optional ; the
solo anivoraity now ie that of Copenhageu, founded in 1478. Tlie Danea
are charoct^riaed hy a strong, well-built, mnscular fVame, with regular
features, bino eyes, and light hair ; not easily roused, bnt susceptible or
iitrong feelings ; of a patient disposition, and requiriug niuoh lime for
delib^tion; more remarkable for common-ienao than for wit, osd highly
virtuous.
Utsmtiira. — The following list iiicluiles only a few of the most
eminent litBrary names in Denmark : —
POETRT : Baron Holhorg, tha dramatist and historian ; Ewald, the
famoos lyric, poet; Falster, Sneedorf, TuJleu, Wessel, Oehlenschlliger,
BaggesBu, Hertz. HISTORY : Suena, Saio-GrammaticuB, Hotbei-g, Suhm,
MijUmann, and B, G. Niebnhr. GEOaHiPinr abd Thatels : Carsten
Niebnbr, and Chevalier BtOnatadt. Science ; Tyeho Brahe, tha eminent
aatmnamer ; Oersted, the electrician ; Schonw, the botanist ; Rask, and
J. Olshauaen, the philologists ; GrunlVig, Peteraen, and Kafn, tlie arelue-
ologislB ; Mynater, MUllor, Lindberg, TreachoT, Smith, and Twesten,
the tlieologians. Fhilosufbt ash CmiiciBU : Bothe, Bahlieh, and
Kraft. FiTiK Arts ; Thorvaldsen, the eminent aculptor ; Hansen anil
Mailing, the architects ; Tiiel, the portrait-painter ; GehaueTj the animnl-
K inter ; Ecberaherg, the hiatorical painter ; Dahl, the landscape-pamter,
lUAitCE : Ingemann, Elicher, Erusa, and Hauch.
3. — Denmark isalimited constitutional monan.!i;',
T beins in the king and his responsible ministtrs.
The Bigidag or Parliament is composed of two houses — the Lands-
thing or Upper Honae, consisting of Bfi members; and the PollcstMng
or Hoose of Commons, containing 101 members; being 1 for every
J 16,000 of the population. The Bevenue for 1875 amounted to
' X2,728,000 ; the Enpenditare to nn almoEt equal Bum ; and the
Public Debt to £13,238,000. In 1874, the Army coDaiatod of i0,008
men ; and the Navy of 31 steamers, 1 frigate, 1 corvette, 1 brig, and
6 ironelada, carrying in all S14 guns.
Commerce and HtumniCtuTea. — The commerce of Denmark is not
ao Bitensive as its favourable position would warrant us to expect.
There being few good roads in the interior, the coasting trade is very
considerable. Its foreign commerce is chiefly with Germany, Britain,
Sweden, and Russia. The chief exports are butter, bacon, hams,
floor, hides, skins, com-meal, oilcake, horses, and cattle ; while the
iinmnta cotzaist of woollens, aifka, cottons, salt, iron, hardware, wine,
jinit, tea, and articles of colonial produce. In 1873, Denmark e;c-
r, ported to Britain produce to the value of £3,670,000, which mainly
I'^WliBisted of oata, barley, oxen, bulla, butter, bacon, flour, hides,
I'Dilwke, cattle, and sheep. Of British eiporta to Denmark, the
I principal are coal and iron, amounting together to £1,085,000, and
\ jther articles to the value of £11,600,000. The articles wo send to
*" ' ' e which we can beat spare, while those which wo
234 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
receive from her are what we stand most in need of. There being
no coal, and but little water-power in the country, Mannfactores are
few in number and of limited extent, the metals being all imported.
The peasantry manufacture for themselyes all the linen and woollen
(ilothin^ they require, as well as utensils and articles of furniture.
Some silk and cotton ^oods are manufactured in the large towns,
and brewing and distillmg are extensively prosecuted; while in the
capital are several establishments for manufacturing tobacco and
porcelain, and for sugar-refining.
Internal Commimicatlon. — Roads are very inferior, owing to the
level and alluvial character of the country. There are three princi-
pal canals — one connecting the Ljrmfiord with the North Sea, one in
Zealand, and another in Fiinen ; while the country is largely bene-
fited by the Schleswig Canal, connecting the Eyder with the Baltic
There are several lines of railway now in operation — ^viz., one firom
Aalborg, on the Lymfiord, to Kanders ; a second from Aarhuus to
Viborg and the W. coast of Jutland ; a third crossing the island
Fiinen, from Odense to Middelfart; a fourth from Copenhagen to
Elsinore ; and a fifth from the capital, by Roeskilde, to Eorsor on
the W. coast of Zealand. In 1867 there were 296 miles of railway
in operation.
Foreign PossessionB. — Besides Iceland and the Faroe IslandB,
which have been already noticed, Denmark possesses the extensive
region of Greenland, with its thirteen settlements and two mission
stations, the principal of which are Frederikshaab, Julianshaab, and
Good Hope ; Disco Island, in Greenland ; St Croix, St Thomas, and
St John, in the W. Indies. The establishments on the Guinea
coast were purchased by Britain in 1850 ; the town of Tranquebar,
with its districts on the Coromandel coast, and the town of Seram-
pore in Bengal, were transferred to Britain in 1846 ; while the
Nicobar Islands, in the Bay of Bengal, were abandoned in 1848 on
account of their insalubrity. The extra-European portion has an
area of 46,878 sq. m., and a population in 1874 of 47,500.
GERMANY.
Germany (Germ. BeutscMand; Fr. Allemagne), in its widest
acceptation, is an ethnographical, rather than a political, term.
It properly denotes that extensive region in the heart of Eurojse
occupied by the German race, which extends from the Baltic
and North Sea to the Alps and Adriatic, and from the Rhine
and Meuse on the W. to the Niemen and Carpathians on the
E. It is of a square compact form, is bounded oy the parallels
of 44° 46' and 55"* 30' N., and by the meridians of 6" and 19'
E. ; has an area of about 280,000 sq. m., and a population
I
(1868) of about 50,000,CM». From the ninth century till 18(IG,
or for a period of 1000 years, Germany fonned an empire, gov-
erned by a sovereign elected by the different states situated
■within inis wide domain, whosa capital was Vienna. Its first
and luoat iilustriooa aovereign Charlemagne, son of Pepin-le-
Bref, king of the Franka, and grandfioa of Charles Martrf, was
crowned emperor of the W. in a.d. 800. His dominions
extended from the Ebro to the mouth of the Elbe, from the
Atlantic to the mountains of Buhemia and the Raab, and from
the British Chaimel to the Voltnmo. The last emperor was
Francis IT. of Germany, who renounced that title in 1806, and
■became Francia I. of Austria. The empire was succeeded by
the " Confederation of the Rhine," established at Palis under
the protection of Napoleon L, and consisting of the kings of
■Wiirtembetg and Bavaria, and several petty sovereigns. In 181 5
the Congress of Vienna established " the Qermamc Confedera-
tion," being an alliance between the thirty-four independent
states (then comprehended in Germany), for the purpose of
mutual protection and defence. In tliis Confederation, Austria
vas the most inflnential, as its territories embraced nearly a
third of the whole extent of Germany, and the emperor of
Anstria presided over the Federal Diet, or Parliament, which
eat permanently at ifrankliirt-on-t he-Main. In 1866, Prussia
declared war against Austria, and the contest ended by Prussia
expelling Austria ^m the Confederation and becoming her-
Beu the paramount power in Germany. The States that had
aided Austria (Hanover, Nassau, Hesse-Cassd, Hesse-HomburL^,
Frankfiirt) were annexed to Uie Prussian dominions, which,
now embrace in addition Schleewig, Holstein, and I^uenburg,
wrested from Denmark, together with portions of Hesse-Darm-
etadt and Bavaria^ The whole of Northern Germany from the
Baltic, Jutland, and the North Sea, as far south as the river
Uain, wns then formed into the " North German Confederation"
under the control of Prussia ; while South Germany, numbering
five States, formed a loosely-connected group under the nominal
ascendancy of Bavaria. The two dirisions were, moreover, con-
nected t^ether by treaties of alliance, by which Prussia, in tha
event of war with any foreign State, was virtually placed in
command of the armies of the Southern States. The French
Emperor, jealous of the rapidly increasing power of Prussia,
waged war against that state (July 1870), and despatched a
powerful army to the Ehine frontier. But Prussia, fully pre-
pared for the contest, rallied around her all the minor states,
and ronted the French armies in a series of sanguinary engage-
ments. In Septeniber 1870, Napoleon, after the disastroua
defeat at Sedan, unconditionally surrendered to King William
236
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
of Prussia ; when 39 generals and 100,000 soldiers were made
prisoners. Soon after this, Paris was besieged, and France was
compelled to make peace ; agreeing to cede three departments
(Hant Khin, £as Khm, and Moselle) to Germany, and to ^y a
war indemnity of £200,000,000. King William was prodamied
Emperor of Germany on the 18th January 1871 ; and the once
famous Germanic Empire was reconstructed in all its pristine
grandeur.
GERMAN EMPIRE.
Position and Bonndaries. — N., the Baltic, Jiitland, and
North Sea; W., the Netherlands, Belgium, and France; S.,
Switzerland, the Tyrol, and Bohemia; E., Russia. Lat 47®
20'— 55*^ 50^ N.; Ion. 5° 57'— 23° E.
Berlin, near the centre, is on the same parallel as Cambridge, Amst^-
dam, Hanover, Warsaw, and Samara ; and on the same meridian as
Copenhagen, Neu - Strelitz, Trieste, Naples, Malta, and Tripoli. The
coast-line, though extensive, is confined to the northern frontier — 850
miles thereof belonging to the Baltic, and 350 miles to the North Sea.
For the most part the coast is very low (especially in Pomerania, Han-
over, and Oldenburg), and requires to be fenced with dykes, as in the
Netherlands, but in Mecklenburg it is considerably bolder. The principal
indentations of the Baltic coast are the Gulfs of Danzig and Luoeck, and
of the North Sea coast, the estuaries of the Elbe and Weser.
Area and Population. — The united area of the 26 states is
estimated at 213,370 sq. m., or one and three-fourths that of the
British Isles; while the aggregate population, in 1872, amounted
to 41,085,516, being one-third more than the population of the
United Kingdom, and giving 194 persons to each 6(|. m. The area
and population of each of the states will be found m the following
table : —
State.
Area in
sq. m.
Population
in 1872.
Kingdom of Prussia, • . . . •
Kingdom of Saxony, . . . . •
Grand-Duchy of MecMenburg-Schwerin,
Grand-Duchy of Oldenburg, ....
Duchy of Brunswick ,
Grand-Duchy of Saxe-Weimar, .
135,904
6,777
6,188
2,428
1,424
1,403
24,698,065
2,556,244
857,877
814,995
811,715
286,183
GEKUAN EUPIRS.
I
Atealn
PopDlatton
p
STATt
«q. m.
iSmi.
Grand-Dacliy of Mecklenbui^-Strelitz,
1,152
93,982
Duchy of Auhalt
1,026
203,354
Bsa
187,884
Daoliy of Sase-Cobui^-Gotha,
76B
174,339
Dncby of 8a<e-Altenburg, .
610
142,122
Pnncipality of Lippe-DetmDld, ,
PrmcipBlityotWatdsolt,
138
111,153
i83
56,218
PnncipaJity ot Schwartibai?-EudolBtaat, .
371
75,S23
67,191
69,032
Prindpality of Eenfls-SchleitJ!,
gOQ
Principality of Schauinborg-ijippe,
171
32,051
i_
Priucipality of Eeuss-Greitz,
Free aty of Hamtni^, .
145
45,094
k
136
338.974
■
Free City of Lnbeok, .
127
B2,I58
P
Free City of Bremen, .
74
122,665
m
Kingdom of Bavaria, .
29,342
4,884,402
Kingdom of Wurtemliorg, .
7,fi33
1,818,184
Grand-Duchy of Baden,
fi,9ie
1,461,423
Graiid-Dneby of Hease-Darmatadt,
S,B62
852,343
&
ElsasB-Lothnngen, *
4,500
1,597,219
Total, German Empire,
213,370
41,085,516
described, wo must
first treat o![ Priisaia, tben oE the smaller Germaa States nortli of
the Main, and loatlj of Soutbem Geiinatij.
I. KlMOBOM 0
f enlarged, com
PunasiA.
ta of tlia following elBvan pro-
Fnuda Proper.— KosraBBSBO 112, Inaterbei^ 13 (Pregal), Memel 1
Tilsiti; {Niemen), Eibing 28 (Hbing], Danzig 90, Graudeni 13, Thorn
(Vfitula), Brauneberg 10 (Pasarge),
" - - "■-- MM and 10,000. — Gonibinnan, Marienbnrg, Muienwetdi
Brombetg 27 (Braha).
Tas ConeONAxia b, d, /, h, t, 1, t
< =1 (t, u Elake, Binria {SitCta, Eit-trieia).
238 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Silesia.*— Breslau 208, Glogau 18, Brieg 13, Oppeln 11, RatiborlS
(Oder), G«rlitz 31 (Lower Neisse), Hirschberg 10 (Bober), Grlinberg 10
(Lunze), Liegnitz 20 (Katzbach), Schweidnitz 16 (Waestritz), Neisse 19,
Glatz 12 (Neisse), Gleiwitz 12, Benthem 13 (Klodnitz).
Ohlau, Sa^n, Sprottau, Banzlau, Laben, Jnner, Goldberg, Striegaa, Reichen^
bach, Oels, Strehlin, Munsterberg, Frankenstein, Neustadt, LeobschUtz
Pomerania.— Stettin 74 (Oder), Stargardl7 (Ihna), Stolpel4 (Stolpe),
Greifswald 18, Stralsund 27 (Str. of GeUen), Koslin 13 (Niesenbecke),
Colberg 13 (Persante), Anclam 12 (Peene).
Demmin, GoUnow, Rugenwalde, Neu-Treptow, Greiffenberg.
Brandenburg. — Berlin 826, Charlottenburg 13, Kottbuss 12 (Spree),
Luckenwalde 12 (Nuthe), Brandenbui^ 26, Potsdam 43, Spandau 16
(Havel), Rnppin 12 (Rhin), Kustrin 10, Frankfurt 41 (Oder), Prenzlow 16
(Ucker), Landsbeiig 18 (Wartha), Guben 11 (Neisse), Sorau 10 (Bober).
Spremberg, Rathenow, Jiiterbok, Perleberg, Wittstock, Schwedt, Wrietien,
Crossen, Konigsberg.
i = j in German, or y in English, as Jaslo, Jaworow {Ycuflo^ Ya-voi^cn).
rz = zA, or French j, as Brzezany, Przmysl {Bzha-za'nyt Pzhem'Ut).
8z = 8h in shall, as Kratoszyn, Zamosz (Kra-to'shin, Zd'moah).
The Polish is spoken in Pnissian, Austrian, and Russian Poland, in the more
elevated portions of Prussia Proper, and generally in the basins of the Niemen
and Vistula. The sounds of the letters in Selavonian, Bohemian, and Illyrian.
correspond, in general, with those of the Polish. The accent in Polish words or
more than one syllable is uniformly on the penultimate, and it is the only Scla-
vonic tongue that contains nasal sounds like the French «n, in, on, which ate
represented by the letters a and 6, undermarked with an accent.
* Rules for pronouncing German proper names, with appropriate examples : —
' Vowels. — a long, as in far ; short, as in fat. e long = a in fate ; short, as in met
t long, as % in machine, o long, as in stone ; short, as in yon. u long, as in role ;
short, as in full.
Diphthongs. — d. or ac = a in fate, as GrStz (praUs),
ai, ay, ei, ey = eyia eye, as Main or Mayn, Leine, Leyden(Jftn«, Lt'neh, LVden).
au = ou in hour, as Augsburg, Clausthal (Oug^boorg, Cloua^tcU).
eu = oi in voice, as Reuss, Neuburg, Baireuth (Rois, Noilioorg, Bl'roit).
ie = eem feet.as Wien, Nienburg, Wiesbaden (Fe«n, NeenlHtorg, Veea-bdh'deny.
dor 06 = eu in French, or ao in Irish : there is no corresponding sound in Eng-
lish— Gottingen, KOnigsberg, Schonberg.
ii OT tie = u in the French word bruler: it has no parallel English sound— «.|^.,
Miinden, Niimberg, Ltineburg.
The Consonants are sounded as in English, with the foUowing exceptions :—
d final = t in English, as Detmold, Gmiind, 8tuttgard (DeVmott, QmUnt, Stut'
gart).
c before «, i, y = ts, as Celle (TseVleh).
ch = Scotch ch or Irish gh in Loch Ness, Lough Foyle, but before 8 rodieoZ =ik;
as Eisenach, MUnchen, Sachsen (I'zen-izch, Mun'chen, SaJc'sen).
g is hard before e, i, y, as Giessen, Melningen (Ghee^sen, MVning-en).
h is pronoimced only at the beginning of a word or of a radical syllable ; when
after a vowel, it lengthens the vowel, as Hanover, Jahde (Han*o-vert Ydfdeh).
j = yia yes, as Jena, Jaxt (Ye'na, Yaact).
8 between two vowels has the sound of z; but elsewhere it is always sharp, as
Eisenach, Osnaburg (rzen-ach, Os-rM-boorg).
88 and sz — sm this, as Cassel, Giessen (Cas'sel, Ghees^sen).
8ch = 8h in shine, or ch in French and Portuguese, as Schleitz, Schwartsboif
Shlitea, SchwarUfhoorg).
th — t^Bs Gotha, Claucthal {Oo'ta, Clou^taT).
V between two vowels is equal to v in English ; elsewhere it is equal to /in Ufs,
as Hanover, Vogelberg (Han'o-ver, Fo'g?iet-berg).
to is nearly equal to English v, as Waldeck, Wismar (VaVdeckt Vit^nuar).
z and 12 = Ut as Zellerbach, Wartzburg {Ts6VUrA)ach, Varts'boorg).
GERUAN EUplBB.
Burg 16 (
SohBneh',!!. Ihrhy, Gunielegen, nalrteiuleban, KnJbe, LuieeiisBltia, Sswrer-
luBson, HeUlgcnatndt, SiiUl.
HanOTBT.— Habotkb 104, GiJttingen 13 (Leine), Hildesliuim 13 (In-
nente), Cells or Zell 15 (Aller), Claustlml 10 (Zellecbauh), Luneliiirg 16
(Ilnieiiaii), Emden IS (Enidea canal), Osnabriick 18 (Uase), Hiibiu? 13
(Elbe).
Bmheck, OfitenxlB. VBrfBn, Qoalar, Nionburg, eBBoln, MUndsp, StsJe, Nor-
Snhleiwie-Halstein and Laaenbnig. — Glitokstadi' 5, Altonn 74
(Elbe), Kiel 32 (Kiel Fi), Scliiaawig 11 (Schlai Fd.), Flansburg 22
(Flenshurg Fd.)
Rendibu^, ItiehOe, eHmshom. Pr^eDi, HatleTslcljen.
EeMenXBiESl and 3.<imhxag.'—Ci»BML 41, Fnlda 10 (Fnl<ia), Hanan
17 (Uaiu).
Hamburg, HersfHld, Eschirege, Sfihmalkalden, MarfaurK.
), Hertord 11, Bie-
re), Paderbora 12 (Lippe), Sflst 11 (Sasterhaoh), Dortmund
44 (Emster), laerlolui 15 (Baareabaiih), BachuDi H n. (Eulir).
BitniPi, IJppsUdC, Anisberg, Wltten.
Khenuli Fnmla.— Cologne 125, Wessel IS, Crefeld G4 n., Diisaeldort
83, Nenaa 11 d., Soltngan 12 n., Bonn 24, Coblenti 27 (Bhino), Diiia-
bms 14, MUlhsim 14, Esaen 32 (BuLr), Bemscheid 18 n., Elberfeld 66,
B«imen 65 (Wipper), Treyea 22 (MobbIU), Aii-la-Chapelle 74 (Wlirm),
Enpen 14 (Tesdre), Gladbach 19, Vlersan 15, Blields 12 (Xiers), Esch-
WlflT 14, Dunn 10 (Boer), SaarbrUck 13 (Saar), Kreimiach 12 ( Na1i«).
EinmflrjQb, Cltivea, Uiiblheim, Neawlad, Roodadorf, Leiuiap, Uayen, Saar-
DeacTlptlTa irotes.— The Prusaioa monareliy, aa now extended,
contains foar cities of npwards of ]00,000 inhabitanta (Berlin, BrsB-
lan, Colof;ne, KaniRSbflrg) : twelve between 100,000 ajid 60,000
{Danz^, MagdebuiK, Fraukfdrt, Hanover, Stettin, Aii-Ia-Chapelle,
Altona, Elberfeld, Bsnnen, DUsseldorf, Crefeld, Poaen) ; twen^-four
between 60,000 and 20,000 (Halle, Potsdam. ErfUrt, Cassel, Frauk-
fUrt-ou-Odar, Essen, Oisilitz, Dortmimd, 'WieBbttdan, Elbint Stral-
sniid, Coblenz, Btomherg, Duiabnrg, Brandenbitrg, Monster, Halber-
Btadt, Kiel, Bonn, Gladbaeh, Flenaburg, Treves, Nordluusen, Lieg-
nitz) ; and eighty between 20,000 and 10,000.
KSnigBberff, capital ot Pruaaia Proper, a popniona and strongly .fortl-
Bed city on the Pregel, near Its month in the Frischa Uat! ; it ie the
Fourth city in Pruaaia in point of population ; has shipbuilding docba,
rreat trade in grain, numerotiB mannlaPtnrea, chiefly w( " " " — ' — -
240 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Olsliauson, Von Bohlen, Gebser, Dinter, Lobeck, and Graff; its obser-
vatory has been rendered celebrated by the labours of the astronomer
Bessel. Hemel, the most northern town in the kingdom, at the entrance
of the Curische Haff, strongly fortified, and with extensive trade in tim-
ber and com. Tilsit, on the Niemen, memorable for the treaty between
France, Russia, and Prussia in 1807, which deprived Prussia of all her
possessions between the Rhine and the Elbe, and the greater part of
rrussian Poland ; nearly all of which were restored by the Congress of
Vienna in 1815. Elbing, a fortified flourishing town, With considerable
trade aud manufactures. Danzig, a large fortified city near the mouth of
the Vistula, one of tlie greatest corn-shipping ports in the world ; great
foreign commerce ; the birthplace of Fahrenheit, the inventor of the mer-
curial thermometer. Thorn, a strongly-fortified town on the Vistula ;
the birthplace of Copernicus, the eminent astronomer, in 1473. Fosen,
a large fortified city on the Wartha, was at one time the capital of
Poland; it is largely engaged in the export of agricultural produce.
Bawitsch and Bromberg possess several manufactures, and an active
transit trade : the Canal of Bromberg connects the Vistula with the
Netze, an affluent of the Oder. Breslau, the second city in Prussia in
point of population ; the great emporium for the linens of Silesia ; a
great wool-market ; numerous manufactures ; trade in miningproduce,
Hungarian wines, and other merchandise; the birthplace of Wolff, the
mathematician and philosopher ; has a university adorned by the names
of Von Colin, David Schulz, Bernstein, Middledorpf, Wachler the his-
torian, Schleiemiacher the theologian, and Passow the lexicographer.
Glogau, a strongly-fortified town on the Oder, with several manufactures,
especially of sugar from beetroot. GOrlitz has a Protestant college, and
extensive manufactures of linen and w^ooUen cloths. Liegniti : here the
Prussians, under Frederick the Great, totally defeated ttie Austrisns in
1760. Neisse, a fortified town on a river of same name, has various
printing establishments, and manufactures of linen and woollen cloths.
Stettin, a populous and fortified city at the mouth of the Oder, and,
next to Danzig, the chief seaport of the kingdom, with shipbuilding, and
numerous manufactures, the chief of which is woollen. Greifbwald. a
fortified town, with a university. Stralsund, on the Baltic, a strongly-
fortified seaport, with considerable trade. Berlin, the capital of the pro-
vince Brandenburg and of the kingdom, is an elegant city, situated ontiie
Spree, an affluent of the Havel, and containing 700,000 inhabitants;
famous for the variety and extent of its manufactures, among whidh the
most remarkable are its beautiful cast-iron articles called " Berlin jewel-
lery," its paper, porcelain, and dye-works. There are numerous educa-
tional establishments, including the university, the most celebrated in
Germany, though only founded in 1810 : it is usually attended by about
1800 students ; and among its professors are many of the most illustrious
names in modem literature— as Neander, the celebrated church historian;
Schleiermacher, Hengstenberg, Strauss, the neologist ; De Wette, Mar-
heinecke ; Von Savigny, the jurist ; Hegel, the metaphysician ; Encke,
the astronomer ; Von Raumer, the historian ; Karl Ritter. the prince of
geographers; Beldcer, the indefatigable editor of Greek ana Roman
classics ; Bockh, the Greek philologist ; Zumpt, the Latin grammarian ;
and Bopp, the renowned Orientalist, and author of the ' CompaiatiTS
Grammar of the Indo-European Languages:' the royal library contains
600, 000 printed volumes. Berlin is indeed the great centre of intelleotaal
development in the north of Germany. Fotsdam is, next to Berlin, the
handsomest city in Prussia, the second royal residence in the kingpooiin.
GEEMiS EMPIRE. 241
IB bur[iil-placo of Fraderict the Great, and tha Liilhplafe of Wilhelm
m Hombolilt. the statesman oud philologist. FranlifUTt on Oder has
Senriva conuneroe in German aiiii foreign produce, and is noted for
m raanufactnrea of woollen and eilk fabrics, stockinga, aarthamtarB,
— IT, ka. Hagdeborg', an ancient and populona city, and the strongeiBt
jtsain tbe kingdom, has great trade, which is facilitated bynumerona
unera on the Elbe. 'Wittenberg : here the Btfonnation commenced
.517, and here are buried ita great promoters. Luther and Melancthon.
il*, with a celebrated univaraitj adcmed by tbe namee ot Geaeniua,
■— JPholuclc, tnimnn, Radiger, 8pener, ThoniasiuB, Breithaupt, tbe brotham
' 'MicbBBlis, Cellarina, Bauinearten, Semler, Knapp, Wegacheider, and
Mecliel : Halle ie also tbe birthplace of Handel the mnSdan. Herae-
bnre, and Manmburg the birthplace of Riebard Lepaius, both on the
Saale, are thiiTing induatrious towns. Qnedlinhnig;, the bii-tbpkce of
Klopiitock and of Karl Hitter. Halbentbdt contains a superb cathedral
and a Jewish ayna^giia. Elsleben, birthplace of Lather, 1483. Zeltl :
licb copper-mines iti the vicinity. Unhlhausen and ITordhRiiseii, fortl-
tied towna, with manufactnrea of carpets, coarse linens, and woollena.
Erfnit, with woollen and linen manufactures ; its university (fonnded
in 1378), where Lutber was educated, and at ona tinia the most cele-
brated in Germany, was suppressed in 1816, while tbe monastery of St
Angustlne, containing tbe liefoimec'e cell, is now an orplian asylum.
~ W, formerly cap. of kingdom of same name, ia a well-built,
I, and manntactuiing city, on the Leine, — " >i— '-"-•i—i '■•i—
iouB astronomer, Sir W. Heracbel. Q
famous uniTersity. ClauBthal, capital of the m _
with valuable lead and ailver mines. LunBbnig, a Hourisbing manufac-
turing town, with salt-pits and saline springs in tba vicinity. Emdan,
the moat commercial town in Hanover, with shipbuilding docks, Oeon-
brock ia noted for tba manufacture of coarse linens called osmibtiTgi.
Sluekrtadt, formerly cap. of tbe duchy of Holstein. Altona, im im-
portant trading and commercial city on the Elbe, opposite Hamburg, wifli
abipbuilding docks, various manufactures, and an obsan'atory. Kiel, at
tbe eantem extremity of the Scbleswig- Holstein Canal, is an Important
trading town, and tba seat of a nniveraity. Fleiublirg, in the district
Angeln, inbahited anciently by the Angles, who, along with tha Jntes
anifSaiODi, invaded Britain in A.D. 4t9, and gave England its present
name. Cassel, formerly the cap. of tlie Electorate of aama name, and
HacBin. are thriving mamifacturing towns. Schmalkaldan, where tbe
celebrated league waa formed, in 1530, between the Protestant princes of
Gsrniaiiy. Wieabadan, formerly cap. of the ducby of Nassau, ia one
of the principal watering-pieces of Germany. FrBntfiirt, tonnerly a free
city, ajid tbe seat of the Garinanio Diet, ia a populous commercial city
on the Main, now chiefly noted for ita eiteusive hanking transactions :
is tha birthnlaoo of Gotlia, in 1749. MUiutor : here waa concluded the
Peace of Weatphttlit
Buropflan Sti '
n its hardware gooda. Cologne, with 1 25,000 inhabltanta, is the third
Qt; ia Prussia in point of population, ood by far tha most important in
the western i^viiioQ of the kingdom : ita petition on the Rhine gives it
great <!DTamercio,I facilities ; famous for ita distilled waters, called " Eau-
de-Cologne," and for ita magniticent Gothic calhedral, one of the Quest
242 POLITICAL GEOGEAPUY.
in Europe : here the monk Barthold Schwarz invented gnnpowder in 1830 ;
■nd here was bom Rubens, the most famous painter of the Flemish schooL
in 1577. CrefUd, the principal town in Prussia for the manufacture uf
silk goods. Doueldor^ a large commercial city, has a bridge of boati
across the Rhine. Bonn has a celebrated uniTersity adorned by the
names of Niebuhr, A. W. von Schlegel, Welcker, Freytag, Augusti,
Nitsch, Bleek, and Gieseler : it is the birthplace of Beethoven the com-
poser. Ooblentz, at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle, the fonner
of which is crossed here by a bridge of boats, 485 yards long, has manu-
factures of cotton and woollen fabrics: on the oppc^te bank of the Rhine
is tiie formidable fortress of Ehienbreitstein. . fLberfold and Bamien,
great seats of the cotton, silk, and thread manufacture, and famous for
dyeing Turkey red. Treves (Oer. Trier), at one time the residenca of
Constantine the Great, is believed to be the oldest city in Germany : it
contains numerous Roman remains, and maintains a brisk trade in oon,
timber, and Moselle wines : here is exhibited a coat which the monks
assert is "the seamless coat of the Saviour." Aix-la-ChapeUe {O^r.
Aachen), the residence and burial-place of Charlemagne; celebnted
for its mineral baths, its treaties of 1668 and 1748, and the congress of
1818 : here were crowned the emperors of Germany from 814 till 15SL
II. Saxony and the Smaller States.
Saxony.— Dresden 177, Meissen 10 (Elbe). Bautzen 12 (Spree), Leipzig
106. Plauen 21 (White Elster), Cnmmitzchau 12, Werdau 10 (Pleisse),
Reichenbach 11 (Goltsch), Eilenburg 10, Glauchau 19, Meerane 16 n.,
Zwickau 25 (Mulde), Freiberg 21 (Miinzbach), Chemnitz 68, Annabeig 10
(Chemnitz), Zittau 14 (Mandau).
Oschatz, Pim&, Qrimma, Lossnitz, Schneebeig, Dobeln, Bosawein, NoMen,
Mittweida, Hainicken. Frankenberg, Zschoppan, Orossenbain.
Hecklenburg - Schwerin.— ScHWERiN 25 (L. Schwerin), Rostock 29
(Wamow), Glistrow 11 (Nebal), Wismar 13 (N. coast).
Giabow, Lndwigslost, Parchim.
Oldenburg.— Oldenburg 12 (Hunte), Berne 8 (Berne).
Bnmswick.— Brxtnswick 58, Wolfenbiittel 10 (Ocker).
Belmstadt.
Saxe-Weimar.— Weimar 14 (Ilm), Eisenach 12 (Horsel).
Jena.
HecUenburg-Strelitz.— Neu-Strelitz 7 n. (Havel).
Anhalt.— Dessau 16 (Mulde), Bembuig 12 (Saale), Zerbst 11 (JSaXbb),
K6then 12 (Ziethe).
Saxe-Meiningen.— Meininoen 7, Hildburghausen 5 (Werra).
Saxe-ODbiixg-Gotha.-GoTHA 18 (Leine), Coburg 11 (Itz).
Saxe-AItenburg. — Axtenburo 18 (Pleisse).
Bchmollin, Bonneboi^.
Idppe-Betmold.— Detmold 6 (Werra).
Waldeck.— Arolsen 2 (Aar).
Schwartzburg-Rudolstadt.— RxTDOLSTADT 6 (Saale).
Schwartiburg-Sondershaiisen.— SoNDERSHAUSEN 6 (Wxpper).
Amstadt.
Senss-Schleitz.— Gera 15 (White Elster).
Schaumburg-Lippe.— BucKEBURO 4 (Aue).
SeuBS-Greitz.— Greitz 11 (White Elster).
emnin, celebnited I'o
ifacturiiig town in S&xon
OEBUAK XHFIBE. 243
Free Citie*.— Hambnre 30* (Eltel, Liibeck *0 (Tt»Te), Bremeu SJ
Descriptive Notes. — la the tweoty EtDalliir et&tes north cif the
Main there are two cities CQntsiiimg apwards of lUO,(KN)iiilisbitajit«
(Hwnbuj^, Dreaien) ; fonr between 100,000 and SO.OOO (Leiprig,
Bremen, Chemniti, Brunswick) ; five between 50,000 nnd 20,008
(Bostock, Schwerm, Zwickau, Freiljerg, Pliiuen); and twenty-five
between 20,000 and 10,000.
Srsiden, cap. of the kinzdnm of 3i
North GermiuiT, ia renowned fur its . _ . , ,
magnificent bcid^ across the Elbo {1<24 ft. Inugl, and eitenaiTe mann-
factntw. BJ^ieoiklly of china and porcelain ware, of great beanty. Xeli-
Mm : here is inannfactiired the funoDi LlreadeQ china. Buitun, when
Napoleon L defeated tbe Kussians and PnusianB in 161S. Leipiig, the
great emporium of the German hook trade, is one of the most important
commercial towns in Germany, the seat cf three eieat aonaal lain, at-
tended by merchants from all parts of Kiirope and Western Asia, sjid the
seat of a celebratod uniTeisity. FUnBn has eiteniire linan and cotton
minofscturea. FndbGrg, chief town of the mining district of Soiony,
, ._._. --'-^ing 100,000 Kpecimens, beqneathed by
its cotton hosiery, is the most import'
■. Schwerin. the residence of the Gi«ad
Uuke of M. Schwerin, is an anciGnt town on the W. side of the lake of
(iBUje name. Biwtock, a seaport town with a small university. Olden-
burg, cap. of grand duchy of same name, is well fortified, riTer-prat, with
I2.1HIU inltaliitante. Bnmiwick. cap. ot durhy of eune name, a popnlons
city, largely engaged in the woollen trade ; hBre the Epiining-wheel vai
invented. Geut^ ]., Electur of Hanurer, and Ihike of BnuiBwick, lie-
eaine King of Great Britain in 1714. Wrimar, cap. of grand dochy, is a
small town on the Em, noted for having been the residence of Giitiie,
Schiller, Herder, Wielaud, and other men of genius. EIbbumIi : near it
the castle of Wartbnrg, the Patmoe of Luther m J522. Ben-Streliti, cap,
of gruid duchy, contains s collection nf anrinut antiqnities. Deaaan, a
college sjid a nonual school. KeiniiiEen, cap. of duchy, a small town,
with a fine collection of paintings, QoUia, abenutiiit] tciwn on the Leine,
■odcap, of duchy, with mannfacturea of cotton, woollen, and porcelain, a
pictnis-pallery, andalihrary of 130,000 toIb, Since 17(14, the 'AlmanMi
de Gotha' has been published here. Coborg : near it Bosenau, the birtb-
]jlace of the late lamented Prince Albert. Altenbiirg, cap. of dncby, ii
a tiniving tonit with mannfacturea of ribbons and woollen cloths. Det-
mold, cap. of principality, is a email town on the Werra, of no special
interest. Eanibarg, a celebrated free city on the eatusry of the Elbe,
witb 225,000 inhabitaate ; it ia said to have been founded about a-S.
80[t by Charlemagne ; it is the most important commercial city on the
continent, and the groat entrepflt for British and American goods U>
Germany : its meruantile navy consists of ahoat !>0D vessels, carrying 1
aw.OOOtons; the imports in 1B67 amounted to £68,000,000. Lnhed^ '
also B free city, has great Cairn, and a very citensiTa commerce with Den-
mark, Sweden, and Kussia : here are kept the records of the Hanseatic
Lea^e, so famous in the middle ages. Bren
Weier.aDd leuond only to HamhiiiigaB a seat c
244 POLITICAL GEOGBAPHV'.
the great port for emigration to America ; in 1867 the exports and importt
amounted to about £15^000,000 each.
Capes and Islands. — Bmster Head and Bixhoft Point, guarding
the G. of Danzig ; C. Dars, N.W. of Pomerania ; Ritzebttttel Head,
in Hanover. Islands. — Usedom and Wollin, at the mouth of the
Oder ; Rttgen, N.W. of Pomerania ; Fehmern and Alsen, E. of
Schleswig-Holstein; Sylt, Fohr, and R5m5, W. of Schleswig ; and
a small archipelago between the mouths of the Weser and Ems.
Gulfs, Bays, and Straits.— Curische Haff, at the mouth of the Nie-
raen ; Frische Haff and G. of Dantzic, at the mouth of the Yistnla ;
Swinemtlnde Bay and Stettiner Haff, N. of Pomerania ; West Deep
and Str. of Gellen, between Ru^n and the mainland ; G. of Llibeck,
at the mouth of the Trave ; Fehmern Sd. and Kiel Fd., N.K of
Holstein ; Flensborg Fd. and G. of Apenrade, E of Schleswig ;
Estuaries of the £1^, Weser, Jahde, and Ems.
Sur&ce and Mountains. — The surface of the countries recently
forming the North German Confederation is, generally speaking, ex*
tremely level, Prussia and the Northern States being situated in the
great northern plain of Central and Eastern Europe ; but the south-
ern members of the confederation are bounded, or traversed, by rari-
ous chains of hills, as the Sudetic range and the Riesengebirge, be-
tween Pnissia and Bohemia; the TTiUringerwald in the Sachsen States;
the Odenreald in Hesse Darmstadt ; the WesterwaZd in Nassau ; the
Eifel in Rhenish Prussia ; and the Ilarz in Brunswick and Hanover,'
for which see under ** South Germany."
Biver-Baslns. — Beginning at the N.E. angle of Prussia, the prin-
cipal river-basins of North Germany are the Niemen or Memel, with
an area of 85,700 English sq. miles ; the Vistula, 72,300 sq. miles;
the Oder, 45,200 sq. miles; the Elbe, 55,000 sq. miles; the Weser,
17,700 sq. miles; and the Rhine, 75,000 sq. miles. Of these the
first three fall into the Baltic, and the others into the North Sea.
An extended table of the rivers and towns for the whole of Germany
will be found under "Austria."
Lalces. — The lakes of North Germany are exceedingly numerous;
but are all very small, the principal being the Spirden See and Mauer
See, in Prussia Proper, the former being drained by an affluent of the
Pregel, and the latter by the Pissek, a sub-affluent of the Vistula ;
Plau, Malchow, Flesen, Kolpin, and Miiritz, in Mecklenburg, all
drained by the Elde, a tributary of the Elbe ; Dilmer, in Hanover,
drained by the Hunte, an affluent of the Weser.
Climate. — Prussia and the other States of North Germany being
all situated in the great northern plain, and therefore exposed to the
winds blowing from the Baltic, the North Sea, and the Arctic
Ocean, the winter is long and severe, the lakes and rivers bdng
covered with thick ice — sufficient to bear loaded waggons — and the
ground with deep snow, for three or four months in the year ; bat
the summer is usually warm, humid, and variable, and in Rhenish
Prussia the vine is successfully cultivated. The mean annual tern*
QEJlMitJ EMPIRE.
245
tierntiire of Berlin, nhicli ia one degrea farther north than London,
u iS'-S, or three det^ties lower than in London ; the mean summer
at Berliii ia nearly Ute same bs in the British metropolis (flj°.2), hat
the mean winter is more than 3J dcgreea lower. The annual rain-
fall at Berlin is about SS} inches, decreaaing towards the east; nam-
beroftainy days 152; prevailing winds W. and S.W.
Qeology and BDnerala. — The Khenish provinces of Praesia con-
ElsC, for the inoet part, of ujiper palsozoh: beds, bnt nearly all the
rest of Horthera Germany is covered with tertiary strata. Minerals
are yory abundant, especially in the Erzgebirge and Harz Monn-
taJns; the former containinjt the metals in great variety, b«flidofl
nnmorons precioos stones, and the latter, mines of gold, sUver, iron,
copper, lead, salt, coal, alum, and sulphur. Valnnble mines of coal
and zinc are wrought in Silesia ; coal, iron, lead, copper, and mineral
■prings abound in the Rhenish provinces; while recently have bean.
diaooYored inexhaustible deposits of pure rock-salt in Pomerania,
near Stettin, whence it can be shipped at a very low price. The
most characteristic mineral of Prussia proper is amber, a fossil resin,
which occurs in beds of lifluite on the Baltic coast, and which ia
exported to Turkey and other places, to be manufactured into month-
pieces for meerechaum pipes. Prussia has upwards of 100 mineral
springs of varioaa properties and virtues, the most noted of which
are those of Aii-la-Chapelle, Wiesbaden, Ems, Selters, and Homburg.
Botttnr and Agiicnltnte. — The whole of Germany is embraced in
Professor Sehouw's second " phyto-geogrsphia region," the eharae-
teristicB of wliich are mentioned under "knrope. The indigenous
|ilaDts are reckoned at abont 7000 spFcies, of which S666 are Hower-
\ng, including 2037 dicotyledons and E29 monocotyledons. Forests
and heaths are numerous, and the moat frequent forest-trees are the
elm, poplar, oak, birch, and pine. Fruit-trees form of late years an
important article of husbandry, and the vine, chestnut, and almond
thrive well ia the valley of the Khino ; while the apple, pear, walnut,
and apricot abound everywhere. Of all wine-producing countries,
no vineyards are cultivated with such care as those of Hhenjsh
Prussia, Nassau, and Ilhenish £avaria. There is a univeisal interest
taken in the growth of the vines, and a nniversal pleasure in their
■pioffnsa. The district which produces the best Kheniah wine is
ths Rbeingan, a chain ol' hills in Sassau, extending along the right
bank of the Khine for about 25 miles. The wines of Germany are popa-
larly known in this country under the general name of Sock, but there
■re nnmerona varieties, the chief feature of al! being their delicate
flOiTonT and extraordinary durability. Within the last ton years the
toportition of Eheniah wine into this country has nearly doubled
itsalt Bye is the favourite grain, and forms, with potatoes, the
prindpal food of the people ; bnt wheat, barley, oats, flax, hemp,
>sd tobacea are extensively cultivated. Chicory and beetroot (for
the manufacture of sugar) are cnltivated largely in Saxony. ""'
■oil ia, generally speaking, fertile, and the various operatic
igriculture are carefully conducted. About three-fourths of the
B
J
244 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY'.
the great port for emigration to America ; in 1867 the exports and imports
amount^ to about £15,000,000 each.
Capes and Islands. — Bmster Head and Bixhoft Point, guarding
the G. of Danzig ; C. Dars, N. W, of Pomerania ; Ritzebttttel Head,
in Hanover. Islands. — Usedom and Wollin, at the month of the
Oder; RUgen, N.W. of Pomerania; Fehmem and Alsen, E. of
Schleswig-Holstein; Sylt, Fohr, and K5m5, W. of Schleswig ; and
a small archipelago between the months of the Weser and Ems.
Gnlfii, Bays, and Straits.— Cnrische Haff, at the month of the Nie-
men ; Frische Haff and G. of Dantzic, at the month of the Vistula ;
Swinemtlnde Bay and Stettiner Haff, N. of Pomerania ; West Deep
and Str. of G«llen, between Rngen and the mainland ; G. of LtlbeclC
at the month of the Trave ; Fehmem Sd. and Kiel Fd., N.K of
Holstein ; Flensborg Fd. and G. of Apenrade, K of Schleswig ;
Estuaries of the £1^, Weser, Jahde, ana Ems.
Sur&ce and Mountains. — The surface of the countries recently
forming the North German Confederation is, generally speaking, ez«
tremely level, Prussia and the Northern States being situated in the
great northern plain of Central and Eastern Europe ; but the south-
em members of the confederation are bounded, or traversed, by rari-
ous chains of hills, as the Sudetic range and the Riesengebirge, be-
tween Pnissia and Bohemia; the ThUringerwald in the Sachsen States;
the Odenreald in Hesse Darmstadt ; the WesterwaJd in Nassau ; the
Eifel in Rhenish Prussia ; and the JIarz in Brunswick and Hanovery
for which see under ** South Germany."
Blver-Baslns. — Beginning at the N.E. angle of Prassia, the jmn-
cipal river-basins of North Germany are the Niemen or Memel, with
an area of 85,700 English sq. miles ; the Vistula, 72,300 sq. miles ;
the Oder, 45,200 sq. miles; the Elbe, 55,000 sq. miles; the Weser,
17,700 sq. miles ; and the Rhine, 75,000 sq. miles. Of these tiie
first three fall into the Baltic, and the others into the North Sim.
An extended table of the rivers and towns for the whole of Germany
will be found under "Austria."
Laikes. — The lakes of North Germany are exceedingly numerous,
but are all very small, the principal being the Spirden See and Mauer
See, in Prussia Proper, the former being drained by an affluent of the
Pregel, and the latter by the Pissek, a sub-afBuent of the Vistula ;
Plau, Malchow, Flesen, E5lpin, and Miiritz, in Mecklenburg, all
drained by the Elde, a tributary of the Elbe ; DUmer, in Hanover,
drained by the Hunte, an affluent of the Weser.
Climate. — Prussia and the other States of North Germany being
all situated in the great northern plain, and therefore exposed to the
winds blowing from the Baltic, the North Sea, and the Arctic
Ocean, the winter is long and severe, the lakes and rivers being
covered with thick ice — sufficient to bear loaded waggons — and the
ground with deep snow, for three or four months in the year ; but
the summer is usually warm, humid, and variable, and in Rhenish
Prussia the vine Is successfully cultivated. The mean annual tem*
5B of gold,
VaJnable mines of cottl
1, lend, copper, and mineral
; wliile recently hare been
e rock-salt in Pomerania,
vary low price. Tha
GERMAN EMPIRE. 245
Berntore of Berlin, which is one ilegrpe farther north than London,
B 48°.S, or three deffreea lower tlian in London ; the mean sammer
fitt Berlin is nearly the eame S3 in the British metroTioUs (64°. 2), hut
lean winter is more than SJ degrees lower. The annual rain-
t Berlin is about 22^ inches, decreasing towards the east; num-
ber of rainy days 152 ; prevailing winds W. and S.W.
QeologT and BUnsrali. — The Bbenish provinces of Fmssia cod-
mst. for the most part, of upper paleeozolc beds, but nearly all the
rest of Northern Germany is covered with tertiai; strata. Minerals
■re very abundant, especially in the Erzeebirge and Harz Monn-
tains ; the former containing the metals in great variety, besides
nnmerouB precious stones, snd the ktter, mines of gold, sUve:
copper, lead, salt, coal, alum, and sulphur
and lino are wrought in Silesia ; coal, ii ~
springs abound in the Rheniah provinci
duNovered inexhauatibla deposits of pur
near Stettin, whence it can be shipped a
most characteristic mineral of Prussia proptii i> aiuum, a, •uoau icam,
which occurs in beds of lignite on the Baltic coast, and which is
exported to Turliey and other places, to be manufactured into month-
pieces for meerBchaum pipes, Prussia has upwards of 100 mineral
springi of various properties and virtuaa, the most noted of which
«ra tiiose of Aii-ta-Chapelle, Wiesbaden, Ema, Sellers, and Horaburg.
Botany and Agncnltore.— The whole of Germany is embraced in
Professor Sch on w's Bccand "phyto-peographic region," the charao-
teristics of which are mentioned under "Kurope. The indigenous
plants are reckoned at about 7000 species, of wbich SSSS ara lower-
ing, including 2037 dicotyledons and S2E> monocotyledons. Forests
aim. heaths are numerons, and the most frequent forest-treea are ths
elm, poplar, oak, birch, and pine. Frnit-tnes form of late years an
important article of husbandry, and the vine, chestnut, and almond
thnva well in the valley of the Rhine ; while the apple, pear, walnut,
and aprieot abound everywhera. Of all wina-proilui:iiig countries,
no vineyards are cultivated with such care as those of Khenisli
Pmsaia, Nassau, a»d Rhenish Bavaria. There is a universal interest
token in the growth of the vines, and a universal pleasure in thoir
progress. The district which produces the best Rhenish wine ia
the Rheingau, a chain of hills in Noflsan, extending along the right
bank of the Rhine for about 25 milea. The wines of Gennany are popu-
larly knownia this country under the general name of Itodc, but there
■re numerous varieties, the chief feature of all being their delicate
Savour and extraordinary dnrabOity. Within the last ten years the
Importation of Rhenish wine into this country bos nearly doubled
itMlf. Rye is the favourite grain, and forms, with potatoes, the
principal food of the people ) but wheat, barley, oats, flax, hemp,
and tobacco are extensively cultivated. Chieoiy and beetroot (for
B manufacture of sugar) are cultivated lar^ly in Saxony. Tha
1 ii, generally speaking, fertile, and the various operations of
B agriculture are carefuUy conducted. About three-fourths of the
248 rouTiCAL geography.
Hengstenberg, Tholuck, Tiscliendorf, Stier, H. Olsliausen, UUmaim,
Krammacher, Lange. Philologt : Reuchlin, Buztorf, Stockius,
Ludolfy Fabricius, F. A. Wolf, Adelung, Schleusuer, Schneider, Yoesins,
Freytag, Wahl, Gesenius, Bopp, Grimm, Reiske, Ernesti, Heyne, Butt-
mann, MatthuB, Zumpt, Freund, Ewald, Passow, RSdiger, Furst, Koae-
garten. Fine Arts : In Music some of the more celebrated names are —
Handel, Bach, Haydn, Beethoven, Weber, Mozart, Klein, Mendelssohn,
Spohr ; in Painting — Albert Durer, Elzheimer, Sandrart, Van-der-Faes,
Roos, Warner, G. Netscher, Mignon, Kneller, AnnaWaaer, Denner; and
in Sculpture — Dannecker. Miscellaneous : Werner, Kotzebne, Jung
Stilling, Zimmermann, Herder, Lessing, Bouterweck, Tieck, Jean Pam
Bichter, Wagner, A. W. Schlegel, Bunsen, Richard Lepsius.
OoYeniment. — The government of Prussia is a hereditary consti-
tutional monarchy, the executive being invested in the king and two
chambers— an Upper House, or House of Lords, and a Chamber of
deputies, elected by the people, and consisting of 432 members.
Every Prussian subject who has attained his 25th year is entitled to
vote. The reigning sovereign is William I., brother of the late
Frederick William IV., who died in 1861. The minor States, wilii
the exception of the free cities (Hamburg, Bremen, and Llibeck),
have a monarchical form of government, generally with two chambers,
one of which is elected by the citizens. All the states of the Con«
federation are represented in their corporate capacity by a parliament
which sits at Berlin under the presidency of the Emperor of Germany.
It consists of two bodies — a Federal Council of 43 members (17
of whom represent Prussia), and a House of Representatives, elected
by universal suffrage, at the rate of one member for every 100,000
inhabitants. Army and Navy. — The army of the entire Confedera-
tion, and which is under the exclusive control of Prussia, consisted,
in 1869, of 546,505 men (on the war footing), with a reserve of
214,700, and garrison troops, 270,000— forming a total of 1,021,000.
But in time of peace the army amounts to 311,985. The navy con-
sists of 87 vessels, with 547 guns, and 8870 horse-power, ^e total
Beceipts o{ the various States amounted, in 1868, to £25,880,472;
the Expenditure to about an equal sum, and the Public Debt to
£62,120,000. The revenue of Frossia, for 1873> is estimated at
£30,661,000.
Commerce, Manufactures, Exports, and Imports. — ^Until the for-
mation of the ZoUverein or Customs' League in 1818, trade was
greatly trammelled by each petty State in Germany esuusting dues
from every vessel that touched its frontiers. Since then, however,
only one charge has been levied, and the proceeds divided among the
different states forming the League, in the ratio of their respectlva
populations. The late war brought the ZoUverein to an end, but in
1867 a new treaty, on an enlarged basis, was concluded, embracing
all the States of both North and South Germany, with the exception
of Hamburg, Bremen, Ltlbeck, and Altona, which for the present
ore ports offree importation. In 1868 the gross receipts of the ZoU-
verein amounted to 27,819,525 thalers, or £4,097,928. Of tiiis sum
19,900,000 thalers were received by Prussia, 2,656,000 hj Sazonyi
1,407,000 by Bavaria, 575,000 by WUrtembeT|^ and 1,106,000 t(r
GERMAN EMPTRB. 249
Baden. The iiierca.ntile tnarine of Prussia has been largely >u-
creaaeil by the acquUition cf Hanover and Schleswig-HaUteiu, and in
1873 numbered 5898 vesaala, carrying about 2,i8l},000 tons. TliB
principal Bxports from Prussia and North Germany ars com, timber,
wines, horses, homed cattle, coals, wool, oO. flax, hops, tobacco,
mineral waters, and distilled liquors, together with woolleii and
linen manufactured goods. Among the aiticlea exported from Prus-
sia to Great Britain arc, com to the Talue of about £5,000,000 an-
nually, and timber, £1,000,000 ; while she sends coal in vast <] nan ti-
tiea to other parts of Germany, France, and Switzt;rland. In 1873
the production of coal in Prussia amonnted to 38,000,000 tons. The
chief articles imported into Prussia and North Germany from Great
Britain are iron, wrought and unwrought, herrings, and cotton-
yaru, amounting, in 1867, to £2,886,000, and colonial produce, raw
cotton, and silhs. The exports from Danzig and Stettin in 186S
amounted to £5,268,000, and the imports to £7,973,000. The
manu^cturcB are numerous and important, but chiefly for homo con-
Homption. Those of Prussia consist for the most part of textile
{abncSj machinery, beet-root sugar, porcelain, earthenware, paper,
leather, musical instruments. Cotton is manufactnred eitonsively at
Elberfeld and Barmen, linen at Bielefeld and Liegnitz, cutlery and
stms at Solingen. silks and velvets at Crcfeld, woollen stutfs at Pots-
dan, while Berlin is the great seat of the mauufBctnre of artistic
articles, such as " Berlin ware," jewellery, toys, and Busical and
philosophical instruments. Brewing and distilling are estensively
carried on in all parts of the kingdom. In the other states of the
Confederation the principal manufactures are cotton and woollen
poods, and " Dresden china " in Sssony and Brunswiei: ; beer, lea-
fier, paper, wooden and straw ware, linen, &C., in the smaller States.
Inland Commimieittlaii. — Internal communication, both by laud
and water, is in a hif;hly efficient state, consisting of many navigable
rivers connected by canals, excellent roads, and a perfect network of
railways. At the beginning of 1867 there were in Pmssia E7II4 miles
of railroad open for traffic, and in the other States of North Germany
1092 miles— making a total of 88S3 miles, while in the end of 1873
the munber of miles in the whole Confederation amounted to 12,700
miles. Berlin is connected by rail with all the more important
towns in Prussia, and with the capitals of all the other States of the
Confederation ; while other important lines, following the courses of
the Khine, Elba, and Oder, serve to connect Northern and SontherB
Germany.
III. Sooth Gbrmabt.
Position and Boundarlee.— N.E,, Saxony j N.W., the Jloinft,
teporating it from Pnisaia ; W., France, from which it is aepii-
led for the most port by the Rhine ; S., Switzerland and tho
250 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Tyrol ; R, Upper Austria and Bohemia. Lat. 47" 20'— 50* 41'
N.; Ion. 7^5'— 13M8'E.
Carlsruhe, cap. of Baden, and on the central parallel of 4d% has the
same latitade as Paris, Begensburg, Lemberg, Poltava, New Westmin-
ster in British Columbia, and the southern boundary of British North
America : and has the same longitude as Christiansand, Oldenbnig,
Lucerne, Milan, Cagliari, and Old Calabar. The general outline is re^
angular, nearly square ; its greatest length, which is from K to W., is
about 250 miles ; while its extreme breadth, from N. to S., does not
exceed 220. South Grermany nowhere approaches the sea, but the Bhine,
which is navigable for steamers up to Basle and for small craft to Chur,
forms a large portion of the southern and western boundary ; while its
tributary, the Maine, which bounds it on the N.W., is navigable as far
up as Bamberg.
Area and Population. — The united area of the five states compos-
ing South Germany is 50,249 sq. miles, or about half the siae of
Great Britain; whUe the aggregate population, 1872, amounted
to 10,593,876, being about two-nfths the population of the latter.
South Germany is very densely peopled, having 210 persons to each
sq. UL The names, area, and population of the different states are
as follows : —
Bq. m. Pop. 1871
Kingdom of Bavaria, .... 29,342 4,864,408
Kingdom of Wurtemberg,
Grand Duchy of Baden, .
Grand Duchy of Hesse-Darmstadt,
Elsass-Lothringen^
7,533 1,818,484
5,912 1,461,438
2,962 852,343
4,500 1,597,319
Total, . . 50,249 10,593,876
Political Divisions. — South Germany consists of five distinct
states, each of which is a member of tiie newly-constituted Grerman
Empire. Their independence is so far sacrificed that, in tlie event
of war with a foreign state, Prussia is entitled to claim the com-
mand of their armies.
Bavaria.— Munich 171, Landshut 12 (Isar), Passau 13, Straubi^ II,
Ratisbon or Begensburg 30, Ingolstadt 17 (Danube), Amberg 12 (vUa),
Kempten 11 (Iller), Augsburg 50 (Lech), Spires or Speyer 15, Germers-
heim 10 (Rhine), Kaiserslautem 15 (Lauter), Aschaffenbuig 10, Wttrz-
burg 42 (Maine), Landau 11 (Queich), Bamberg 26, Erlangen 12, FUrth
22, Schwabach 10 (Begnitz), Nuremberg 83 (Pegnitz), Anspach 18 (Bezat).
Baireuth 19 (Bed Maine), Hof 14 (Saale).
Freising, Neubnrg, Eichstadt, Dinkelsbuhl, KordlingeOt Meminingen, Zwei-
briicken, Pirmasens, Eissingen, Schweinfiirt, Rothenburg, HoIierUinden.
Wnrtemberg.— Stuttgart 84 (Nesenbach), Reutlingen 14 (Eschati),
Ludwigsburg 12, Heilbronn 17, Esslingen 17 (Neckar), Ulm 25 (Danube).
Cannstadt, Eirchheim, Tubingen, Rottenbuig, Hall, GmQnd, GKJppingaa,
Ehniiigen, Tuttlingen.
Baden.— Carlsruhe 37 n., Mannheim 40 (Rhine), Heidelberg 20
(Neckar), Pforzheim 16 (Ens), Rastadt 11 (Murg). Freiburg 21 (DieiBanOii
Constance, Weinheim, Bruchsal, Bretten, Lahr, Baden-Baden.
GERMAN EMPIRE. 251
Euie-Dkniistadt.— Darmstadt 40 (Barm), Giisscn 10 (Labn), Msy-
mcB or Mainz 51, Worms 12 (Rhine), Offenbaoli 23 (MaiDa).
Elian-LotliTiiigeii.— See pnga 198.
QBWTlptlTe Kotea.— The five States ahoro enmnei-ated Contain
only one town above 100,000 inhabitaata (Munich) ; three between
100,000 and 60,000 (Nnretaberg, Stnttgart, Augsburg) ; ten between
fiO,000 and 20,000 (Mayence, Wllrabura Mannheim, CarUnihe,
Darmstadt, Eatisbon, Bamberg, Fllrth, Freiburg, Offenbach); and
twenty-ftve between 20,000 and 10,000.
Knaioli {Ger. Munchen)^ cap. of Bavaria, in the midst of a sterile
Elaln, is, with tbe eineption of Madrid, the loftient city in Europe,
avii^ an elevatioa of 1690 feet : for the moat part it is of modern erec-
tion, u by far the most populous city in South Germany, and, in regard
to itA treasureH in painting and Hcolptnre, Is unrivalled in Germany. It
baa been embellished and extended during the last century on a scale un-
known in any other European city, Bicept Paris ; it contains nnmeroua
■plendid edifices in every known style of architecture, among wbii:h are
the university, the palace, and the picture-gallery. Near it is Hohenlin-
den, mben), m 18D0, the French totally defeated the Auatrians. Fassan
is strongly fortified, and forms t!ie defence of Bavaria against Austria.
Slitisbmi, long the cap. of Bavaria, and, from 1663 to 1808, the permancnE
seat of the Imperial Diet : here He the remains of Kepler, and here
Mapoleon was wounded in hattle in 1809. Angshnrg, an miportant city,
tlie principal arsenal of the kingdom, and ttie great emporium for Ger-
an, Italian, and Greek wines ; in regard to banking and eichange
leratjons, it is second only to FrankHirt ; but it is chiefly celebrated for
e Confession of Faith wliich the Protestants presented here to Charles
Y . in 16S0. Spires, noted as the place where the Reformers, in 1628,
presenlfld their famous protest to the Emperor, which originated the re-
ligions designation of Frotestants. 'Wiirzbnre, a university town, nas
formerly the cap. of Franconia. Bamhere vi extensively engaged in
rusiug and preporing liquorice and medicinal plants. ErlMieen contains
the only Protestant university in Bavaiia. Piirth, next to Nuremberg,
ilie most important manufacturing town in the kingdom, the staple com-
modities being toys and fancy artjclea. Kiireinberg, the great toy-mart
of Germany, is funous for its numerous inventions in the mechanical arts,
aa the watch, gun-carriages, cnpperplate-engmving, musket, clarion, &c.
Stnttyart, the most heautifully-aitnated capital in Germany, is of very
recent origin ; contains the royal palace, adorned by Flemish paintings
and aculptnres by Dannecker and Canovs, and the royal library of
880,000 volames, including a unique collection of 9000 bibles, printed in
80 different bnguagea. Dim, a fortilied town on the Dannbe, where it
h^ins to be navigable, contains one of the finest Gothic catUedials in
Oermauy : here the Austrian General, Mock, capitulated to Napoleon in
1805. Oarlnniie {" Charles-a rest "), the cap. of Baden, in the valley of
the Rhine, is an elegant city, with its 32 atroeta diverging from the palace
like the rays of a fan; has manufactures of jewellery, carpets, and chemi-
cal prodocts. Humhelm, at thecoaSuence of the Rhine and Neckar, i*
well situated for commerce, and is the most populooa city In Baden.
HaidelbBrg, famous forits romantic scenery, its flourishing uni' — "-
•Dd an ancient castle, long the residence of the Electors- Pal°''"->
''-'m, noted as being the birthplace of EeuclJin. Eastadt,
a of the late Ccrmanii; ConfederatiaD, is celebrated for the treaty of
the Con
252 POLITICAL GEOGRAPUY.
1714 between Villars and Eugene, the battle of 1796 between the French
and Austrians, and the congress of 1799. Freiburg, noted for its magni-
ficent Gothic cathedral, with a pyramidal spire 380 feet high : contains a
Roman Catholic university, which is well attended. Constance, the seat
of a famous council in 1414, which sentenced John Huss and Jerome of
Prague to the flames. Bretten, the b.p. of Melancthon, in 1497. Baden-
Baden, with hot saline springs, is a celebrated watering-place. Daim-
stadt, cap. of the grand duchy, is a handsome town, with a magnificent
ducal library. Giessen, the seat of a famous university, rendered illns-
trious by Baron Liebig's discoveries in organic chemistry. JKayenoe
{Ger. Mainz), the most populous town in the grand duchy, and one of the
strongest fortresses in Europe, forms the great bulwark of Germany
against France : it is the b.p. of Guttemberg, the inventor of printing
(1440). Offenbach, the chief industrial town in the state, is noted for
its bookbinding and manufacture of carriages. Worms, famous for the
Diet of 1521, where Luther was outlawed.
SarflB.ce and Mountains. — The surface is hilly, and frequently
mountainous. A branch of the Rhsetian Alps from Austria forma
the southern boundary of Bavaria and Wiirtemberg, separating the
Inn from the Isar, and the basin of the Rhine from that of the
Danube, but nowhere attaining the limit of perennial snow, which
in the Alps has an elevation of 8900 feet. Proceeding northwards^
the different ranges are as follows : —
The Schwartswald, or " Black Forest," in Baden, separates the Rhine
from the Neckar ; maximum elevation, 4675 feet.
The RavM A /», or Swabian Alps, in Wiirtemberg. between the Danube
and Neckar, 3300 feet.
The Bdhmerwaldt between Bavaria and Bohemia, separates the Danube
from the Moldau, an affluent of the Elbe, 4613 feet.
The ErzgeHrgei between Saxony and Bohemia, separates the basins of
the Elbe and Danube, 2500 feet.
The FichtelgeMrge, in the N.E. of Bavaria, separates the affluents of the
Danube from liie rivers that find their way nortnward, 3481 feet.
The Thilringenoald, in the Sachsen States, and between the sources of
the Werra and Saale, 3286 feet
The Rhbngehirgei in the N.W. of Bavaria, separates the Fulda and
Werra from the Kinzig and Maine,' 2300 feet.
The Odenwald, in Hesse Darmstadt, forms a continuation of the
Schwartzwald, and separates the Maine from the Neckar, 2300 feet.
The WesterwcUdf in Nassau, between the Sieg and Lahn, 2850 feet.
The JSifelf in Rhenish Prussia, between the Moselle and Ahr, 2200
feet.
The Rarzgehirge, or Harz Mountains, in Brunswick, and the S. of Han-
over, between the Weser and the Elbe, 3230 feet.
Biyer-Basins. — For the river-basins see under ** Nortb Germany,"
and for the table of rivers and towns see under " Austria."
Lakes. — Boden See or Lake of Constance, bet. South Germany and
Switzerland, traversed by the Rhine, of which it forms the great
reservoir; length 42 m., breadth 8 m., elevation 1255 feet, dflpth
964 feet ; the Siores are generally flat, but the snow-clad Alps in the
distance have an imposing effect ; its waters are subject to a snddea
rise and fall, without apparent cause. Other lakes are Ammsr Ste,
PS8 i
B difTe
EMPIRE. 2D 3
Warn Sen, Hnd Chiem See ia the S. of Bavaria, drained by Bffli'eiita
of the Isor and Inn, tributaries of the DaDiibe.
CUm&ts. — In all parts of Germany the mean annual teniperntura is
nearly the sama, the greater elevation ol Southern Germany oompen-
gating for its lower latitude. Hera the sky ia mora aerene and the
climate much drier than io North Germany, The mean annual
' Carlsrahe, in the central parallel, is fil°.B — winter, 34°.B ;
fifl'.S. At Ulm, on the Danube, the annual fall of tain ia
S8 inches, and in N. Germany 2Si inches, but it varies greatly in
different parts. Encept in the yalley of the Khine, the climate is
generally Tery cold, and the mountains rarely free from snow.
Oeology uid mUnsTals.— The rFgica south of the Danube ia oc-
cupied with tertiary strata; the large district lying between the
Khine, Maine, Naab, and Danube is covered ivitb secondary rocha ;
the palteoMic aeries rarely appears, \FhitB E. of the Naab, granitic
rocks prevail, especially in the Bdhmerwald,
The principal mineral products of the various states of South Germany
aje—Savaria .- salt (formerly a Government monojioly), obtainod from the
rock and bj eraporatiou ; iron and coal, found m many places ; copper,
manganese, quicksilver, and cobalt, in Rhenish Bavaria. WHiitmiera ;
Bait, iron, and coal are abundant, while silver, copper, Isad, bismuth,
&nd malachite are fouud in small quantities. The mineral products of
Baden are chieHy alum, sulphur, silver, iron, copper, lead, and coal;
Bold-washing, formerly geueral along the Rhine, is now insiKniflcant.
Iron, coal, and salt abound in Heise-Darmttadt, The princindT mineral
springs are thone of Ei^singen, Briickcuan, and Rosenheim, m Bavaria;
Wildbad, in Wurlemberg ; Baden-Baden, in the Grand Ducliy of Baden.
Bataii7 end leTieuItnre. — For the nnmber of apeciea of plants in
Germany, as also for a description of the culture and exportation of
the German wices, we refer the student to the corresponding article
under " Fruasia and North Germany."
In South Gennany, about, three- fifths of the entire area is under culti-
vation, and the soil is gioierally very fertile. >>ear1y all the cereals are
grown on the lower grounds, and considerable quantities of corn are ex-
poltedtrora the various states. The vine is extensively cultivated in the
Talleya of the Rhine and Maine, and to a smaller extent in the plain of
the Dannbe, and on the sboroa of Lake Constance. Baden alone pro-
duces annually about 14.000,000 ^Is. of excellent vriue, Wijrtembsn
nearly 5,000,000 gala., -while Rheuish Bavaria has been long celebrated
a Ettein and Leisten wines. Hops and the tobacco-plimt are very
'~ "ind Bavaria exports largo quantities of beer, neaily
,__,...,_._ „ being annnally producpd. Abont one third of Bonth
QeiinaaT ii covered wifli forests, chiefly pi[]e and Br trees, TheSchwan-
„. _ . , ._ espHciallycalebratedforil . .
finest of gigantic trees, some of them attaining the height of 180 feet.
Zoology. — The fauna of all Germany has been noticed above. In
TWard to tame animals, cattle-rearing is the exclusive industry of the
B itX^ and other niountainoos districts, -while horses, sheep, and goats
■ •— Bitensively rsiBod in all the southern slates. The silkworm has
u recently introduced into Bavaria, and the rearing of bees forms
254 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
an important occupation in Baden. The other domestic animals are
the same as in England.
Ethnograpliy. — The people and language are the same as in North
Grermany (which see).
Religion and Education. — Of the 8,567,000 inhabitants of the southern
states, 4,672,000 are Roman Catholics, being 54 per cent of the whole
population ; while 3,818,000 are Protestants, being 44 per cent of the
whole. Bavaria and Baden may be styled Catholic coimtries, the Catho-
lics being to the Protestants as 2 to 1 in the former state, and 8 to 1 in
the latter. Protestants, however, greatly outnumber the Roman Catho-
lics in Wurtemberg and Hesse-Darmstadt, being in the former as 2 to ],
and in the latter as 3 to 1. The number of Jews in the five states is
estimate at 105,000. In Bavaria, the Roman Catholic Church is richly
endowed, possessing property amoimting to above £8,500^000, besides
which the State pays £130,000 annually to the clergy. Protestants,
however, enjoy complete religious liberty, and are eligible to all civil and
military appointments. In Baden, the Roman Catholic Church is under
the supreme management of an archbishop appointed by the Pope, and
is quite independent of the Government, frequent disputes biotween
the Church and the state have been the result. In Wiirtemberg, the
supreme direction of the Protestant Church is vested in the King, and
Protestantism is virtually, though not formally, the religion of the state.
Education is in a very advanced state throughout South Grermany, espe-
cially in Wurtemberg, where it is rare to &id any one who cannot rrad
and write. Attendance at school is compulsory in all the states ; every
village, and even hamlet, has its primary school, and in WUrtembeig a
fall sixth of the population is under tuition. There are 8 universities
— viz. , those of Munich, WUrzburg, and Erlangen, in Bavaria ; TUbingen,
in Wiirtemberg ; Heidelbei-g and Freiburg, in Baden ; Giessen, in Hesse-
Darmstadt ; and Strasburg, in Alsace.
GovernmeTU. — In all the states the form of government is monarchical,
but the title of King is confined to the sovereigns of Bavaria and Wtir-
tembei^. Representative institutions are common to all the states, the
executive power resting in the sovereign, the legislative in a parliament
consisting of two houses, and all functionaries being responsible. The
total armed force amounts, in time of war, to 142,895 men. or to 902421
in time of peace. Of the latter, 49,949 belong to Bavaria. 14,150 to Wiir-
temberg, 14,812 to Baden, and 11,510 to Hesse-Darmstadt. By Tlrtua of
special treaties between Prussia and each of the states of South Qermanj,
the former, in time of war, is virtually placed in command of their anniesy
wMle, as a matter of course, none of them possesses a navy. The ama-
gate revenue and expenditure of these states, in 1866, amoontea to
£7,684,804, about one-half of which pertained to Bavaria, while the
aggregate public debt amounted to £45,324,167.
Commeroe, Mannfturtnres, and Inland ^'»««*»^"*<fffffn. — These
states, being wholly inland, cannot vie with their neigjhbonra in
regard to the extent of their commerce. Still the transit trade
between Italy, Switzerland, Austria, and North Germany, oanied on
mainly by steamers on the Rhine, Maine, Neckar, and eren the
Danube (below Ulm), is very considerable. The ]>uinbe alao com-
municates by the Ludwig's canal with the Maine and Bhincb and
thus materially facilitates internal commnnioation. Uaan&otaziBg
r
.USTRO-H UNO ASIAN £»PIfiE. 255
Industry ia highly developed, encept in Bavaria, where wine-niRlting
■nd the brewing of beer are the principal products. Coarse linens,
woollen, and silk atulTs are largely manufactured, together
with tob&cco, leather, iron and steel goods, machinery, paper, cabi-
net-work, papier-mache, porcelain. Jewellery, toys, so-called Dutch
clocks, and mathematical and optical instmments, which ai ' "
high repute. Bookbinding and the construction of carriages are
largely carried on in Hesse -Darmstadt. The exports consist chiefly
of wine, timber, corn, salt, beer, leather, tobacco, cattle, glass, jewel-
lery, otia, and drags ; and the imports, of sugar, ooffee, silk, wool,
hemp, and Rai. Railway communication has made great progress :
. In 1889 tie total number of miles in operation was 2977, together
ridthl3e2 miles of telegraph wires.
AUSTRO-HtJNGAKIAS EMPIRE.
I Boundaries. — N., Poland, Silesia, and the kin^om of
b SMony; W., Bavaria, Switzerland, and Lombardy; S., Veuetia,
■ the Adriatic, and Turkey ; E., Moldavia and Russia.
I Omitting Dalmal
■onthward along tl
allel, the remainder u< iiis bui|>i
between Ion. 9° 41' and 26° Sy I
18" 231, in the centre of the ei . .
Brest, Mnnicli, Czemowitz, Ekaterinoslav,
I.}, sndSt jDhD'a(NewfDnndland); and oa the same meridian as Stock-
holm, Fosen, Cape Spartivento, Lake Tuhad, and tlie mouth of the Orange
Hiver. Omitting the Tyrol and Dalmatia, the general form is that of an
oblong aqnare, 6i0 miles long by 420 miles broad, having Buria, the cap-
ital of Hungary, in the centra ; but the eiUeroe length of the ampire.
From Lake Constance on the W. to the esstom confines of Transylvania,
la about aOO miles, and the extreme breadth, from N. to S., 630 miles.
Austria is essentially an inland country, her ooait-line, which does not
■ieeed480m.,heuigwhollyaonSned to the E. side of the Adriatic. This
eiTeii only 1 mile ofooaatto every 500 aq. m. of surface. With her pretent
boundaries, therefore, Austria can never become a great maritime power.
AiMi and PoimlAtioiL — By the ceasion to Italy of Lombardy in
ISSe, and of Venetia in IMtl, the area is now reduced to*210,361 sq.
miles, or considerably less than twice the area of the British Islea.
With the exception of Kussio, however, Austria is still by far the
largest state in Europe. By the oeoaus of December 18S9 the
population was 35,904,435, being one-eighth more than that of tha
Uaited Kingdom, and one million less tbaa the population of
Franoe. This allows 108 persons to eaoh aq. mile of surface. About
le-tourlh of the entire population (9,D4l',0U0) are GennaaB, one-
jU (16,000,0001 Sclavoninns, while the remaiuiog fourth is made
|p of Magym, Italians, and other races.
* roc Boutin, lleneipTliu. aa<l yovl-Buii, l«e p. W- ■
256 POUTICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Political DlYlslons. — The Austrian empire, or Austro-Hangarian
luonarchy as it is now called, is at present divided into eighteen
crown-lands or provinces, of which ten are German, two Polish, and
six Hungarian.
Ten German Proviscks.
Bohemia.*— Prague 190, Budweis 15 (Moldau>, Pilsen 14 (Bradawka>,
Kuttenbei^ 13 (Elbe), Leipa 10 (Pulnitz), Egerll (Eger), Reichenb«rg 19
(Lower Neisse).
Konig^tz. Sadrnoa, Krnman, Klattao, Leitmeritz, Saatx, Chmdim, Leito-
mischl, Karlsbad, T5plitz, Marienbad.
Silesia.— Troppau 20 (Oppa, affi. Oder).
Teschen, Bielitz.
Moravia.— Brunn 73 (Schwartza, suh.-affl. March), Iglau 17 (Iglawa),
OhnUtz 14, Sternberg 13 n. (March), Prossnitz 12 (Rumza).
Neutitschein, AuaterlUz, Nicolsburg, Znayra.
Lower Austria.— Vienna 834 (Danube), Neustadt 15 (Leitha).
8. Polten, Baden-
Upper Austria.— LiNZ 31 (Danube), Steyer 11 (Ens).
Salzburg.- Salzburg 17 (Salza, o^. Inn).
Styria. — Gratz 87 (Mur, affl. Drave).
niyria (Carinthia and Camiola). — Latbacr 23 (Laybach), Klagenfurt
14 (Glan).
Idria, Bleibach.
GOrz, Trieste, and Istria.— Gorz 13 (Isonzo), Trieste 109 (G. of Trieste^,
Rovigno 11, Pola 11 (W. coast).
Capo d'Istria, Pirano.
Tyrol and Vorarlberg.- Innsbruck 23 (Inn), Trent 14 (Adige), Botzon
10 (Eisack).
Two Polish Provinces.
Galicia.t— Lemberg 87 (Peltew, affl. Bug), Oacow 49 (Vistula), Kolo-
mea 15, Sniatyn 11 (Pruth). Sambor 11 (Dniester), Tamopol 17 (Sered).
Stanislau 13 (Bistrica), Drohobicz 11 (Tiszmanicka), Brody 19 (Styr).
Przemysl, Bzeszow, Bochnia, Brzezany, Wieliczka.
Buckowina.— CzERNOwiTZ 34 (Pruth).
Six Hungarian Provinces.
Hungary Proper. t—BuDA or Ofen 55, Pesth 202, Mohacsll, yUnf-Kir-
* For the pronanciation of the German names, see above, p. 238.
t Rules for the pronunciation of Polish names will be found under '* German
Empire," p. 237.
X The following rules will assist the pupil In pronouncing Hungarian proper
names : —
o,ii = same characters in German.
a = ^ in go ; this consonant is always hard. gn = ng Eng.
J = yin yonder ; as Baja (Bd'ya).
s^8h in shall ; as Sajo (Shd'yo). t before t = e«, as Croatia ((Oroa'tsiaL),
ez = tain wits ; as in Debreczen (Debretsen).
C8 = ch in church ; as in Mohacs, Pancsova (Mo-hateh't Pan'-eJu/va.)
8Z = 8 ia Eng. ; as Szegedin, Veszprim (5<^-ed-in' Vea-prem'),
zs = sin vision or French j ; Zsolna, (Zhol'na).
ay = di in French Dieu ; as Magyar, GyongyOs {Mod'yar, Dyon'dyon),
ly — Uia. million = gl in Italian ; as Vasarhely ( Va-mar-hK),
ACBTRO-HCHGiRlAN EMPIH1!.
2S7
n 11, PressbuTg
Chen, 9* n.. Fadvar 11, AU-Ofen 12, Vaci
a {Danube), Sieged 69, VsaairhGl; 43 n., Szentes 2a, Keci
FsieeyhiizH IB n., Nngy-KSrCs 20, Czecled 1 9, TokKy 6 (Theiss), Msko 26.
Arad 39 ^aroa), Siarraa 19, Bekes 90, Caaba 28 (KHrBs), Groeswardein
29 (BebsB Ktiriis), Debreczen 41 ■a. (Eassa), Eaachau 16 (Hemad), MiakolU
28 (Saio), Eperins 10 (Tarcia), StuhlweisssBbarg 23 (SarriU), Qran 11,
Schemiiita 14 n., Krenmita 5 n. (Gran), Eaab 20 (Eaab), VaBarhely-
Somla 25, Oedenburg 10 (Raaboitz).
TransflTanla.-'KLAnsKHBaHO 25 (Si^thob), Maraa-Vasuliely 11 (Moi-
mV Kronstadt ^7 n. (Aluta), HennaimBtadt 19 ^Zibin).
Kariabutg, BUtriU. Kaey-Enred, Sinm-Itegen, Thords.
Burnt and Servla.— Teubswab 33 n. (Temea), Versstz 21 n. (Earaahl,
Kensati 16, Zombor 25 n., B^ja IB (Danube), NaCT-Kikinda 15, Zenla 17,
ThereaieaBtadt 66 o. (Tb«isa), Becskerek IS (Alt-Bega).
LDgoS, ApBtio, LlppB.
Croatia and Sclavonia.— Aorah 21 (Sava), Eszek H, Warasdln 10
(Drava), Fiuma 16 {Adriatic).
PoBSgH, Petrluia, RarUUdt, ZsBEg'
Dalmatia. — Zara 19, BencoTss 10 n., Sebenino 14, Spalatro 16, Ragusa
21 (W. CO,), ImoEchi 23 n. (Biatritia), Kuin 23 (Kerka), Demis 18 (Cicola),
Sign 26 (Cettina), Caatel-Nuovo 8 (O. of Cattaro),
HiliUry Frontier.*— Petebwabdeoi 7, Pancaova 12, SemUn 13, Milro.
Ticz B (Ssrs).
DeserlpUve Notea There are, intbe Austrian emrare, three cities
of upwards of 100,000 inhabitants (Vienna, Feath, Prague); aeven
between 100,000 and 60,000 {Lemberg, Trieste, GrStz, Szegedln,
BrOon, Bnda, TheresiQuatadt) ; twenty-one between 60,000 and 20,000
(Preasbarg, Vaaarhely, Cracow, Kecskemet, Bebreczeu, Caaba, Linz,
Arad, Kronstadt, Sign, Czemowitz, Szentes, Make, Imoaohi, Knin,
Temeawar, Grosswardein, Zombor, Laybach, Klausenburg, Bekea);
and fifly-eifiht between 20,000 and 10,000.
Fra^ne lOer. Prog), an ancient, large, and fortified city, on both aides
of the Moldau, ia one of the finest in the empire, and of gieat historic
celebrity : it ia tie thief seat of the Bohemian manufactures, which ron-
■ist of thread, linen, cotton, iron, woollen, glass, and paper; contains
the oldest univetsity In Auelria. Prague coutaina the tomb of Tycho
Brahe, and was the scene of the labours of Jerome of Prague aud of John
Hoes, the celebrated martyrs. Pllsen is noted for its iron-mmea. ^gn,
■where Wallenstein and his friends were aasasamated in 1634. Ssicben-
a busy manufacturing town on the Neisse. Edni^grtttx ; near it
■ — ■ ' Tictory over the
1«n;,al
Sadowa,
■V = ni in opinion = fl Bpanlati^im la Frencb, aa S6ti
onocny {Boi-or-
etter of a simple
Miaiiri, UHe Ih and tfc Jn English.
• Tbe MilltaiT Frontier la a atrip of eomtrj cnmptising an »rt
nUM, and eitandi along tbs Tnrltlali ftontier (roni the Adrfall
« of 18,115 iqmre
eastwird u. Mol-
devla. It i!0»Jil.tB of parti of Croatia, Hclavonla, th= Bunt,
Uhelil by iMnitofmllllaryflefon condition of mlUtaryaervIca
iDp«da«.dwu
Inliineorwir it fnmiahEB 00,000 iuBn. This uitem of Eoienun
ent nu oigufsed
In IMT, «i a protection igainrtUw Taika
258 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
factiires of Austria : near it the castle of Spielber^^, a strong prison for
{>olitical offenders ; and at a short distance Austerlilz, the scene of Napo-
eon's triumph in 1805. Iglan has numerous manufactures, and silver
and lead mines in the vicinity. Olmiitz, a strongly-fortified city, once
the capital of Moravia, contains a university, and has important woolleD,
linen, and cotton manufactures. Vienna, the capital of the Archduchy
of Austria and of the Austrian empire, is the fourtli largest and one of ths
most elegant cities on the Continent : it is situated on the right bank of
the Danube, and near the centre of the empire ; contains numerous splen-
did palaces, several of which are converted into magnificent public lib-
raries, one of which, the Imperial Library (founded m 1440, the vear in
which printing was invented) contains 320,000 volumes and 16,000 MSS.
The university is celebrated as a medical school, and had, in 1868, 150
professors. Vienna is surrounded by noble botanic gardens, containing
the richest and rarest plants. It is the chief manufacturing city hi the
empire ; has great commerce on tiie Danube and by railways, and three
great annual fairs. Here sat the celebrated Congress of Vienna (in 1815)
which fixed the present limits of the diiferent European states. Idns, a
fortified city on the Danube, 100 miles above Vienna, occupies an import-
ant military position. Salxburg is famous for its salt-mines, and for
being the birthplace of Mozart, the eminent musical composer,
Gratz, a populous city on the Mur, contains a university ; an institutioB,
called the Johanneum, containing rich museums of zoolo^, botany,
mineralogy, and coins ; numerous manufactures of textile and hardware
foods, and the centre of the trade between the capital and Trieste,
laybach, capital of Camiola, has an active transit trade between Vienna
and Trieste, with manufactures of porcelain, refined sugar, and linen
fabrics. Idria is celebrated for its valuable quicksilver-mines. Gorz, on
the Isonzo, has manufactures of silk, leather, &c., and a brisk general
trade : here died Charles X., the ex-king of France. Trieste, a populous
city on the Adriatic, and the great seat of the foreign commerce of the
empire ; it possesses the same importance for Southern Grermany as Ham-
burg for Northern ; maintains a large mercantile fleet ; and here reside
consuls from most commercial nations. Fola, the great naval depot of
the empire, is a very ancient town. Innsbruck, capital of the Tyrol, has
a university with 24 professors, and a number of other educatioiial estab-
lishments ; with manufactures of silk, woollen, and cotton goods, and
considerable trade. Trent {Oer, Trient), on the left bank of the Adige,
is chiefly memorable for the Council of ecclesiastics held here, 164^
1563. Botzen, the most important commercial town in the TyroL Lan-
berg has a university, attended by 1000 students, and numerous other
literary establishments ; great trade in com, cattle, and coal ; and several
manufactures. One-third of the population are Jews, who are also numer-
ous in all parts of Galicia. Cracow {GertfMn Krakau), the ancient
capital of Poland, and more recently of a small republic which was
annexed to Austria in 1846, is celebrated for its cathedral, which contains
the tombs of many Polish kings ; it has a university, the library of which
is rich in MSS., and near it is a tumulus erected to the memory of the
heroic Kosciusko, the William Tell uf Poland, who died in Switzerland in
1817. Sambor, Bochnia, and Wieliczka, are famous for their magnificent
mines of rock-salt, the last named being the most celebrated in the world.
It contains a subterranean town, with streets, churches, statues, &c., all
cut out of the solid salt rock, the effect of which is very strUdne ; but the
most remarkable circumstance is that the mine contains a smaU lake and
rivulet of fresh water. Drohobicz has iron-mines, salt-works, and pitch-
Jtity. Brody maintains an extensive ttada with Rossis,
roiiiBu, luiu iurkey. Ciemowltz, capital of the new province Bucko-
WLCB,. has manufactures of docks, hardware, and aitver goods. Boda and
PHta, on oppoaite aidsa of the Danuba, but connected by a huge snspan-
alon-bridge, form together tlie capital of t)ia ancient tingdoDi of Uungarr,
DOW restored to much of its former independencB. Buda (Oer. Ofen),
dartvea its name from its hot sulphur-nprii^. It is an ancient city, was
lung in possession of ths Turks, who were eipelied in 16G6, and still con-
talua the r^alia of Hungary ; it carries on an eitenaive commerce in
wine of excellent quality. Festh contains a university wliich has lOU pro-
fHSoiB, and is attended by about 1300 students. Komoni, at the conflu-
ence of the Danube and Waag, la uns of the Btrongeat fortresses In Europe.
Frenbarg, the ancient capital of Huniraiy, the former seat of the Hun-
Karian Diet, and the place where the Emperora of Austria were crowned
kings of Hungary, is a quiet countiy town, surrounded by rich vineyards.
Sz^edin, a fortified mnnufactiiri^ tonn in the centre of the Huugarian
plom, is a place of great tiade. Vaaarhely, the seat of several annual
faini. Eecakemet, with five great annual fairs for hordes and cattle, has
a large trade in com, wine, and fruit. Tokay, a small town ou the Theiss,
is famous for ita wine, ths most coatly in Europe. Hoko is largely en-
caged in the manufacture of wine. Arfld, with the largest cattle-market
in Uui^iary. Groaawardsin, with hot mineral springs, li strengly forti-
fied. Bebreciin contains a Calvinistie college, the moat important insti-
tution of the kind in the empire. Mi°koIti, a considerahla town, with
irtm-mines, frem which is made the beat steel in the empire. Ediemniti
sod Kremnitt, two celebrated miiimg towns, where mines of gold, silver,
lead, copper, iron, sulphur, and arsenic are wrought. Eaab, where the
French defeated the Anst '""" ' ' '
couth of the Roab and Dai
ill raiaing wine and tobacco. Oedenbnrg, u^u .-^j-i i.<d>u<s<uc<, u.
CiteusiVBinartfor the wine grown in itevicially. ElausBuhiiTg, the caji.
of Transylvania, an important manufacturing town, is the birthplace of
Alatthlaa Corvinus, one of the greatest kings of Hungary. Eranstadt,
the most populous and commercial town in the prevince. Hermtuistadt,
the naldencs of the miUtary commander of Transylrania, a Greek
bishop's nee, and the seat of Roman Catholic and Lutheran gymnasia,
has a fine national mnaeum. KarUburg, a small town, with the ricbeat
gold-minei in the empire. Tsmeiwar, capital of Banat and Servia, is a
woollen atutfa, iron-warss, paper, tobacco, and oil, and an eitenaive
trade ; it waa taken by the Turks, under Solyman II., in 1651, and
retaken by Prince Eugene in 1716. Veraetz, a fortified town near the
Sana, engaged in raising wine, silk, and rice. Beusati, one of ths
■Ceamboat stationa on the Danube, is a place of great trade. ZombDT,
with ntanofactures of silk, and trade in grain and cattle. Theraaien-
Mkdt, tha moat populoua town in the Eauat, consiala of an aggregation
olTillaget, with manufactures of linen, leather, and tobacco. Agram,
capital of the united province of Croatia and Sclavonia, a considerable
tuvn on ths Sara, containK a Que cathedral and several monasteries,
a ttrongly.fortided town on the Drava, with bnrracka capable o(
nodating 30,000 men. Taraadin, a fortified town on tfie same
rirer, with aulphor.batbs and extensive vineyards. Flume, a royal Jree
■eapoit town on the Gulf of Q'jamero, and the outlet for the produce of
Hnngary, Zara, a small town on the Adriatic, capita! of the kingdom
of Dalmatia, the aee of an archbishop, and strongly fortified. Spalatia,
trians in 1609, is a steam-packet station, at the
inube. Vasaruely-Somlo la extensively engaged
icco. Oedenbnrg, near lake Neuaiedler, is an
260 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
noted for its Roman antiquities, is the most important seat of comirieroe
in Dalmatia. Bag^sa, a strongly-fortified seaport town with an actiye
coasting trade, is frequently visited by earthquakes. Feterwardein, so
called after Peter the Hermit, who here marshalled the first crusade, is a
most formidable military position on the south or right bank of tiie
Danube, opposite Neusatz, with which it communicates by a bridge of
boats : it was the scene of a great victory over the Turks, in 1716.
Fancsova, a considerable trading town on the left bank of the Banube,
is well fortified.
Capes and Islands. — Salvatore and Funta di Promontore, S. of Istia,
are the only capes. Islands. — Two groups in the Adriatic — viz.,
the lUyrian archipelago in the Gulf of Quamero, principal, Veglia,
Cherso, and Lossini ; and the Dalmatian archipelago on the west
coast of Dalmatia, principal, Ugliano, Grossa, Brazza, Lesina, Cor-
zola, and Meleda.
Seas, Qulfs, and Straits. — ^The Adriatic in the S.W., the chief
branches of which on the eastern side are — Gulfs of Trieste and Quar-
nero, S. of Illyria ; Morlacca Channel, between Croatia and the Dly-
rian archipelago ; Gulf of Cattaro, S.W. of Dalmatia.
Surface and Mountains. — Austria is ahighly-moantainous country,
for although it contains several extensive plains, as the Plain of Hun-
gary and the Plain of Lower Austria, it is traversed by three great
mountain-systems — ^viz., the Alps, the Sudetic Mountains, and the
Carpathians.
The Alps in the S.W., extending from the Swiss frontier to near
Vienna, and consisting of several chains, as the Camic Alps, between
Venetia and the Tyrol ; highest summit. La Marmolata, in S.E, of Tyrol,
11,500 feet, between the basins of the Piave and Drave : the BJuBtvan
A Ips in Tyrol, between the basins of the Adige and Inn ; with Ortler
Spitz, the culminating-point of Austria, 12,789 feet, in S.W. of the Tyrol :
the Noric A Ips, extending from the Tyrol to near Vienna, and separating
the Danube from the Drave ; highest summit. Gross Glockner, in £. <h
Tyrol, 12,776 feet : the Jvlian Alps in Illyria, and the Dinaric Alps in
Croatia and Dalmatia, between the Save and the Adriatic ; highest sum-
mit. Mount Terglou, in central Illyria, 9343 feet.
The Sudetic or Bohemian and Moravian Mountains, foimmg the
N.W. frontier, and consisting of the BShmencald, Erzgdnrge, Hietengt-
hirgCf and Sudetic Mountains (see p. 252).
The Krafacks or Carpathians in the east, forming a great curve,
one extremity of which abuts on the Danube at Pressburg, and after sepa-
rating Hungary from Galicia, and Transylvania from Moldavia and Wal*
lachia, returns to the Danube at Orsova. The Carpathians form a put
of the great water-parting of Europe, separating the oasin of the Danube
from those of the Vistula and Dmester. They are usually divided into
two great sections — ^viz., the Western CarpcUhtans, between HungiiJ
and Galicia, and forming a crescent-shaped rin^ around the head-wi^oi
of the Theiss : highest summit, Gerlsdorfer Spitze, in the Tatia gnnip,
8685 feet; and the Eastern Carpathians or Tran^lvantan Alps, tie*
tween Transylvania and the Danubian principalities, Boparating tiw
basin of the Theiss from that of the Lower Danube : higihett eleritiiOB,
Mount Botschetje, south of Kronstadt, 9528 feet Xhia moantidi^ t^
lOARIAN EMPIRE.
261
„ ther with many other anmniita, riaaa far above the anow-llue, wl.ich, in
this l&titude, is about 6000 f«et.
Moobtaih-Pa^es. — The principal passes ara the Joi/unia Paa, on
the route from Prasabuig to Cracow, Ion. 19° B. ; £ffrjio Pais, between
Bistiitz and Bukowina ; Gy/nee Pass, between Transylvania and Mol-
davia ; floM Pan, riiriSu™ Pan, MoUicitlAunn Pott, and VjUcan Pan,
LHtween Tianeylraiiia atid Wsllachia ; Slelvio Pan, 6100 feet, from Bormia
in Lomhardy to Oluiua in the Tyrol ; and the Srenatr Pna, between the
vulleya of the Inn and Adige, 1650 feet high. The Austrian Goverament
boa made all these passes available for wheeled earriagea af .......
Slvor-BaBlnB. — Notn'ithstanding the great extent of the Austrian
empire, the only great river-basiu contained in it is that of tlio
Dannbe, and even it odI; [lartislly, its sonroea being in South Ger-
many, and its lower bobin in Turkey. Its direct length is estimated
■t 9U0 miles, and its area at 306,001) English square miles. Tlie
empire also emlirtiees the upper basins of the EUie (area of basin,
CCOOO sq. m.), tlie Oder (15,200 sq. m.), and the Vistula (72,300
sq. m.)
Tlia BlTer-System of Contial EoropB. — The followiug tahle com-
wis« the riTEr-ayatem of Caiitrttl Europe from the PrcEel to the
Rhine, tJigether with the basin of the Danube and the N.K coast of
the Adriatic, Capitals of kingdoms and provineea are distinguished
bj 8HALI. CAPITALS, towns of more t!mn 10,000 inhabitants by
I^Jtoman letters, and those b«tween 6000 and 10,000 by llalke.
■.d to Ike Baitia.
Itiveri. Tawiis.
ilega, Kia-TTCplom, Gniftn-
nl^berg, o., KUitrio,
Qlogiu, Breblad, Oh-
lau, BTiec, Oppela,
Sttibor, AeutitecAain,
tT<?liflr, 1 i'otciKilt, Pffidzlaw.
Ihoa, OsUnau. ainrgtird.
Watthi, ,. . . lAbdiiberg, Pose:;, Czan-
N4tH) . - . . Inoariuiaa.
yUlBt^ .'.'.'.Onarn.
LDWur Nela-'Oaben', OUr]^ 'iteicbeTi-
a, I berg.
Handan. J.Zltbia.
Liolier,! £i»an, SoiaD, n., fiuni-
bm, Hlmuhbaig.
<i\uitt,t.,Lavban.
Birtwh Frauiii&t. a.. Bawitach.
Orta, .-.-.Krotoajinr
Kstabuli. i T.iegBl1x,Jauer,a.,QM-
2G2
POLTTIOAL OEOGBAPIIY.
Basins inclined to the BaUie (continaed).
Rivers. Towns.
WeiBtritz, { Schweidnitz.
8trieganer,Sene^att.
Peile, Reiehenbach.
Oelsa, Oels.
Upper Neis- Neisse, Frankenstein, n.,
86, 1 Glatz.
H o 1 z e m- Netutadt, n.
plotz, I
Klodnitz....Gleiwitz, Benthen.
Rivers. Towns.
Zinna, { Lsobsehutt.
Olsa, Tesehen.
Oppa, I Troppau.
Peene, Wolgast, n. Anclam,
Demmin.
Str. of Oellen, Greifgwald,n., Stralsoad.
Warnow, Rostock.
Nebal, Gostrow.
Co. of ]f eck- Wismar.
lenbnTg-Sch.,
Basins inclined to the North Sea.
Elbe,
Gluckbtadt, Altona,
Hamburg, Harborg,
Magdeburg, Schime-
beck, Dessau, Witten-
berg, Toigan, O^hatz,
MeisseD, Dresden,
Pima, TiiplitZy Leit-
meritZj Kuttenberg,
Koniggrdtz.
Schwinge, 2 Stade.
Stor, Itzehoe.
Ilmenau, ^Lttnebarff.
Elde, &ra6oto, Ludwigslust, n. ,
Parehim.
Biese, I .,.. Oardelegen, n.
Uchte, StendaL
Stepnitz, — PerUbera.
Dosse, I . . Wittstock.
Have], RathevMu, Brandenburg,
Potsdam, Spandau,
Neu-Strelitz.
Rhin, Rnppin.
Nuthe, I . . Luckenwalde, JUterbogk.
Spree, I ..Berlin, Charlottenburg,
Kottbns, Sprewberg,
Bautzen.
Ihle, Burg.
Ohre, I Neu-HaHdenslehen.
Nathe, Zerbst
Saale, { £a2&«, Bernburo, Halle,
Merseburg, Weisseu-
fels, Naumburg, Jena,
RUDOLSTADT, Hof.
Bode, I . . .Qnedlinburg.
Holzem-Halberstadt.
me,
Fnhne, . . . Eothen, n.
Wipper, 2 Aschersleben, n.
Bose, 2 ...Eisleben.
White El- Herseburg.Leipsic, Zeitz,
ster, Gera, Ronneburg,
Grbitz, Plauen.
Plci88e,.Altenbnrg, SuhmSUin,
Grimmitzcban,WeTdan.
Grolt8ch,Reichenbach.
Unstruth, La/ngensdtzat MiihUuLn-
sen.
'B%\TiM,l8angerhausen, n.
Zerza,2 Nordhausen.
Wipper,2 Sondbrshausrn.
Gera, . . . Erfort, Anutadt.
Leina,GoTHA.
11m, 2 ....Weimar.
Mulde, 2 Eilenbarg, Grimma,
Glauchao, Meerane,s.*
Zwickau, L6ssniiz^
Schneeberg.
M U n z - Dobeln^ Rossumn, Nos-
bach, sen, Freibera.
ZBchov-Mittweida, Hainiehenf
pau, 2. Frankenberg, Zschop-
©at*.
Chem- Cnemnitz, Annaberg.
nitz.
Black £1-Wittenbei^, n.
ster,
Roda, I ... OrossenhoAn.
Puluitz, .... Leipa.
Eger, 2 Levtmeritz, Saatz, E^
Moldau, 2 ..Prague, Budweis.
Beraun, 2 Pilsen, Marienbad^ n.
Bradaw-jr2cs/tatt.
ka
Czidlina,' ...GUsehin.
Isar, Jurt^funzlau.
Chrudimka,2CArudim.
Lauchna, 2 LeitomiseheL
W e s e r and BRBMmr Nienlwra, Uiii-
Werra, dem.HamelnJivmdm:
Esehwege, AihmaikaUl
n., Mbihingbv, SUir
burghansen.
Hiinte, 2 . ..Oldexburo.
Berne, ...Berne,
Aller Celle, Heknstadt, n.
Leine, 2 . .Haxotkb, JSunbfeft^GM-
Inner8te,Htld«cheim.
Ruhine, Kordkeim.
Qoto,,..,OwUrode,
Ocker, 2 ..BBumviCK, ITol^lniM^
tel Goskw,
Zeltefw KtmuaOaL
bach,
Werre,I....Herford, Bldtftl^ ■«
DlTMOUii
Diemel I .
ArSTRO-lIU.VGAEIAN EMPIRE, 263 1
B^i^..lin.d^.tk.
VarlA 5ea (aoDUnDed).
I RlJXT,
Toant.
JivMM, Tumn*
1 &'■■
.Cum!. Henfald, Fuldi.
Nodda. ..HoMBDM, n.
.EiwnMjh.
.aiW,n.
Bapdlz.l Biraberg, Brinnson.Flirth,
Vco.DrG.'F'iie
-^iml«».
K. lud.
■ Eo>8
.Effiden, Leer,
.OmnbrOik.
RMat,..Anspach.
Iti, CobS.
W Hun, ..
■ Abe.[....
B^MsymBaireutk.
Hmm. ,...
S^nlW, F^IaS^'
Hwrn Die
Vecht, ..
Neckar, ....Minnlieliii, HeldBlbem,
Zwuta, ..
.ZwOLLt
Hdlbnna, Lndwigs-
bmg, C»»n«tflrff, fia-
Re^...
,J(W*i-
""•■
Kvniiea, Jtiulrc. Derenttr,
iiOffia.KinhMim.'M-
l^^A^.b^^^J^'-
ftitwen RaoUinKCB, a..
BHii, doiidi, eortura,
K(Mh8r,..Ho«. "^
Ens. J....Ffonheiiii.
mericA, Cfetwf fl, Vs-
Rema Snuiiui.
«l,c™fcld.i.. DtoMl-
dorf, BeuM. BollDg™,
bach,!
D.. UUhdni, CoUHViE,
'is-SK =«■„,.
Bgnn, J(r<«i.iid. Co-
blCDt., Bi»fl«n. M»r-
atarMl, ..HBohlngen.
Bnce, Wi>™«, Miinn-
■»■"■' ■"•fS"--"-'"
biifoi, Bp«TBr, OarmBi-
8l.elin.d»BLBBllHE.
SalEbsdi. ..Btuclaat.
Quelcii,( ..Laidau.
BEHArrHiUBBB.C-m-
Murg Rastadt.
»IB«™, V.nuz, COIBB.
Ooabach, I Baden-BadiTt.
lirre, ...
Modar, J . . . HatTienau, eitdiwUUr-
dMbotn.
Zoio.l ..Sobct™.
StnUl-
Bbat
Klnalg, ,..,Z,eAr,n.
bach,
Bohr,....
chnSf n., "(W.; n..
CouiAR, Uilldbauiea.
LtEpTrat- BtHariiHiui-Minee.
Rmrter,
Tbur, i ..MuMbanaen, TAonn.
lierlohn.
Ell, Pvaihnre, d.
bJcT
BrgoU, (...LIEBTHAI.
,Wlpi«r...
.BeBMhoid.n., Solinjun.
ilofijdor/, Klbatfuid,
Aar.i 4.aiD,8<.iEuni.,B™»iL
BamEn.
Limh,'(Oi*Rm
Lennep,
,»tg. ....
.Si^'
LSSi.'.'.'zm':""' '""'■ ^^^1
S«W,(..
icoWeM, TrevM. TAion.
BsTDsr Baiuiek. ^^^^H
VOHlll. i
^^^H
>UJ<rMETi,PgnE.d-
irauMon.NuBy.Toul.
^^^^H
tahn
Kih^f .
01.d. .
fclibuh,
.WllSBUi™.
S«b.e.(.-Piut™oiic. ■
.M.Tmo(, FrankfQrt, Of.
tealncn. Bompiu), a.,
sri/"'"-
8itWrn, ..fljriisu, ireimssj.. ■
II
2U
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Basins inclined to the Black Sea.
Rivers.
Toums.
Danube, Baha-Dagh, Tultcha,
Kilia, Ismail, Isaktchi,
Jtenif Galacz, Braila,
Hirsova, Raswva^Silia-
tria, Oltenitza, Oiur-
?evo, RuBtchuk, Sis-
Dva, NIcopoli, Widdin,
Semendria, Pancsova,
n., Belgrade, Semlin,
Peterwardein, Neusatz,
Apatin, Zombar, n.,
MohacB, Fanfkircheii,
n., Baja, Kalocsa,Pdks,
Solt, Fttldvar, JDuna-
VeczBy Pesth, Buda,
Alt-Ofen, Waltz en,
Gran, Dorog, Eomorn,
Pressburg, Vienna,
Linz, Passaa. Strau-
bing, Ratisbon, Ingol-
Btadt, Neutnirg, Ulm,
TvJttlingen.
Pruth, I... .Czernowitz, 8 ni atyn,
Kolomea.
Baglui,...jAS8r.
Beretn, I.... Galacz, Baku, Roman.
Milkov, ..Foktchany.
Jalomnitza, I Tergcnnst.
Lorn, Ra^grad^ n.
Argish, I .... Buchabest, n.
Jantra, Timova.
Alt, I Kronstadt, n.
Zibin, .... Hermannstadt.
Isker, Sophia.
Schyl, I Kn^jova,
Harasch, I. . Verssetz, n.
Morava, ....Semendria, n,, Passar(h
vicz.
W. Mor- Kara7iov€icz.
ava, I
Ibar, . . . Novi - Bazar, Pristlna,
Eossova.
Nis8awa,..Ni88a or Nisch.
Karasch, (..Verset^ n.
Temes, 2 . . . . Pancsova, Tembbwar,
Lt^os.
Save, B B L o R ADB, Mitrovitz,
AORAIC
Drina, .... Zvomik.
Bosna, . ...Bobna-Serai, n.
Posega, I Poseaa.
Verbas, ..BanuUuka.
Unna, .... Dubicza, Novi.
Eulpa, . . ..Karlstadt.
Lay bach, , . Laybach.
Theiss, I Nagy - Eikinda, Zenta,
Theresienstadt, Szege-
din. VaBarheIy,Szente8,
Felegyhaza, n., Kesz-
kemet. n.|Nagy-EOrOs,
Rivers. Toums.
Theisa — n., Nyiregyhaza, Czeg-
continued, led. Szolnok, Mikhs,
Tokay, Szigeth.
Alt-Bega,2 Becskerek.
MaroB, 2..Sategedin, Arad, Lippa,
Mako, Karlshurgt
Haro8-yazarhely,iSza<2-
Regen.
AranyoB,TAor<2a.
E5r0s, I . . Szarvas, Bekes, Czaba,
Gyula.
Berettyo,HezO-Tar, Kardzag.
Sebes- BOszKrmeny, Grosswar-
E5r58, dein.
Zagyva,. ..Gyongyos, a.
Erraa,....ErlatL
Eoselo, ...Debreczin, Szoboszlo.
Hemad, . . Easphaa, Iglo, LetU'
sehau.
Si^o,....MiBkoltz, Rosenau,
Sehmdlnitz.
TaT<^l Eperies.
' Bodrog, I Vjhely, n., Jf unXrocf, n.
Szamos, { Szathmary, Elaosbn-
BURO.
Eraazna, INagy-Karoly.
LapoB, . .Nagy-Bany.
Sz&moa, Bistritz, n. (on the Bia-
trltzX
Drave, Essek, Warasdin, Bfei-
beuih.
Mur, {....GrAtz.
Glan, ElagenfUrt.
Sarvitz Szexard, StUhlweisseu-
bure.
Eapos, . . ..Keszthely.
Sed, Veszprim.
Gran, I Qranf Schemnitz, n.,
Kremnitz, ii.,NeusokL
Waag, I Eomom, Tymau.
Raab, Raab, Papa, n.
Leitha, { . . Nenstadt.
Toma, . ...Vasarhely-Sonilo.
Raabnitz, Oedenbuig, n.
Guns, 2 ..OuTU.
March or Pres8barg,01m1itz, Stem*
Morava,^ berg, n.
Thaya NikoMmrgt n. , Znayrn.
Schwart-BRttNV.
za, {
Iglawa,Iglau.
Litta- AusterlUz.
■wa.,1
Miava, l..Miava.
Rumza, . . .Prossnitz.
Trasen, St Polten
Enns, Steyer.
Inn, Passau, iNNSSBttCK.
Salza, Salzburg.
AUSTEO-HtlKGARIAN EMPIRE.
M aielinfd la Iht Slack Sea (continued}.
Tomu. I liivtn. Tani.
ihnt, FTttiingA Woniiti. 1 , . BinHfeWW.
ICH. EBet,,....NirMiingtn
ODirDtTriaate.TrlealA, Capo <rjitria.
I take*. — In the taBin of tLe Dannte are Balaton or Platkn See
' Bad JVeasiedler See, in tbe west of Hungary ;" Traun See and Atter
See, in Upper Austria ; WSrt/i See aud Weiteen See, in Cstintliia. The
Itoazo drama Lake Zirkailz, in Carniola.
OUmaitc. — The climatn differs yeiy Rreatly in the different pro-
TincBS, 'but the entire empire ia coinpriaed between the iaotherms of
60' and flO° Fabr. The mean annual temperature of Vienna, in the
centra of the Austrian dominions, is 51°. 46, winter 32°, and summer
er.i.
German writeniiivide the empire into three zones—a northern, middle,
and BOolhem. The first, -which emhrsces Bohemia, Moravia, Sileaia,
with the higher parts of Hungary and Galicia— in all, about 715,000 sq.
miles— greatly reseniblBS in its average temperature the British IbIbb and
Northem France ; wheat, barley, oats, and rye forming the usual crops.
This may be called the lont ^gmin, /una, aid /unap. The central zone,
ntending from Ist. 49° to 4^, is the lone of mtue, whtat, and the Tine,
embracing an area of about 150,000 sq. miles; while the third or eoutbern
Hma, embracing the part of the empwe south of 46°, is that of the olive,
BHUberry, figi, and rice. The Une of equal rahifall of 40 to 45 inches
proceeds from Lake Oarda in the Tyrol, to Trieste, Flume, and Karl-
(tadt in Croatia ; in the Alps it rises to S5, 60, and even to 70 inches ;
but ia Vienna and the low-lying diatricts 2S inches are a frequent aier-
■Ea. Storma are cars In Lower Austria, but in the provinces at the head
of the Adriatic they are very frequent and viuleut. Barthquakos, alsn,
and thnnderstorms, are very frequent in the latter region, as well as iu
Hungary and Transylvania.
OMlog; and BUienaa.— A fqll half of the empiro ia ooTored with
tertiary and post-tertiary accumulations, which prevail eBpeciaUy in
tlie biulQ of the Danube, between tlio Save and the Oerpathian
Monntaius. Secondary ab^ta occupy extensive areas in the Comic
• TliB Hnngari
If Bsltburg are vei; smill.
\i, but Id liunuuir its bed Is dry and regularly iiultlvatsd.
266 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
and Julian Alps, in the Carpathians, in the greater part of Dalmatia,
Croatia, and Illyria, together with &la^e TOlt in the N.W., extend-
ing from Vienna to I^ake Constance. Tne palaeozoic series are prin-
cipally confined to the W. of Bohemia, the N. of Moravia, Central
Silesia, parts of Tyrol, Upper Austria, and Styria, extending in
a long belt from Innsbruck to Neustadt, and in detached patches in
Illyria and Croatia. Crystalline rocks prevail in the Eastern Carpa-
thians, and occupy a large portion of the surface of the north-western
provinces, especially between Regensburg and Linz on the Danube,
to Brtinn on the Schwartza. Igneous rocks line the southern flank
of the Carpathians, and occur also in Transylvania; and granitic
rocks are common in the S.E. of Bohemia and the N. of Upper
Austria.
Minerals. — No country in Europe excels Austria in regard to mineral
wealth. Almost every valuable kind of mineral is found in inexhaustible
quantities. The precious metals are very abundant in Hungary (the
only country in which the true opal has been found), Transylvania, and
Bohemia ; the most celebrated mines being those of Schenmitz and ^em-
nitz, in North- Western Hungary. Coal, iron, and copper, are abundant in
all the provinces. Native steel, more valuable than that made by arti-
licial means, is found in Styria, Carinthia, and Camiola. Tin, so rare in
most countries, abounds in Bohemia. A very valuable mine of quick-
silver, second only to that of Almaden in Spain, is worked at Idria in
Camiola. Lead is found in Carinthia, antimony in Hungary, sulphur
and arsenic at Schenmitz. Salt, building-stones of every variety, and
precious stones, are widely diffused; and thermal and mineral springs
are numerous — ^the most celebrated being those of Karlsbad, Toplito,
I^er, Sedlitz, and Marienbad, in Bohemia ; of Baden in Lower Austria;
of Gastein in the Tyrol ; and the Hercules baths in the Banat.
Botany and Agricrdtnre. — The portion of Austria situated N. of
lat 46° is embraced within Schouw's second botanical r^on, or the
region of the UmbellijercB ; the remainder, consisting of Dalmatia,
Croatia, &c., is included within the third ot Mediterranean region
of that naturalist ; while the higher elevations of both pertain to hh
Arctic-Alpine region — (see under ** Europe **). The total number of
indigenous plants in the empire has not been ascertained, but the
whole of Germany, using the term in its widest acceptation, is said
to contain 7000 species, of which 2566 are flowering-plants, subdi-
vided into 529 monocotyledons and 2087 dicotyledons. The vege-
tation of the empire is therefore very extensive and varied, that of
Hungary alone embracing nearly all the plants indigenous to Europe,
with many others that have been imported. About a fourth part of
the entire surface is covered with forests. The Alps and Sudetic
Mountains produce the pine, birch, and larch ; the Carpathians, firs,
pines, and beeches ; while the magnificent forests of the Hungarian
and Polish provinces consist for the most part of the oak, beedh, and
elm. The trees attain in many places a gigantic size ; and the
timber, which is of excellent quality, and weU aidapted for house and
ship building, is largely exported.
Agriailiure. — Though the soil is characterised by great divenity^ H ii
I
AL-STRO-HUNGARiAN EariKi:. 2C7
tbr the mOEt part highly Tertile ; and notwithftanding the antiquated atid
niukilfu! methods employed iu husliaDdry, the crops are rich aad abun-
dant. In the vicinitji of the large rivers the soil conaiata of a blaek vege-
tahle mould, wlikh ia adniirahly suited for the grovth of wheat, lu
some parts of Uun^jary no manure ia reijuired for the pi'oduction of tho
ehoicest cropa. It is estimated that About one-third of the whole surface
U under tillage. In the northein provinces, the usual cereals raised am
vheat, buckwheat, rye, oats, and barley ; in the central provinces, luaiza
and wlieat; while tn the southern are mai» and rice. The Banat,
Hndgary, and Galicia, are the principal corn-^^rowin^ pitivinces, and rye
XonnB everywhere the chief food of the people, \ines, hopa, tobacco,
safiroa, Has, hemp, and a great variety of fruit-trees, are also cultivated ;
and mulberry-trees, for sllk-wornis, are extensively ^wn in Dalmatia
and Hungary. Vineyards occnw about half a million acres of the
nuface, and yield between 4 andSmillion hhds. of wine aonnally. The
ports of the country best adapted for the culture of the vino are Styrin,
Lower Austria, and the N. B. of Hungary ; but the wines are of inferior
quality, eicept those produced in the upper basin of the Theiss, espe-
dally those of Tokay, which have been long celebrated for their eicel-
lenee. The vine cannot be cultivated at a hi{;her elevation than 1750
feet; the oak extends to the height of 3O0O feet, the cereala generally to
4600 feet, nines to 6000 feet, and pasture to the limit of perennial con-
Sslation, which in the Alps is at a height of 8900 feet. Pasture-lands are
mited in exteot, save in the Alpine iirovincES and Moravia, where cattle
■re numerous and the produce of the dairy considerable. In Hungary'
and Oalicia great attention is paid to the rearing of sheep, horses, and
cattle ; great quantities of wool are exported from the Buckowlna ; and
goats, swine, and poultry from most of the provinces. The oil of Southern
Jllyria is superior to that of Spain and Italy.
ZouiOBJ. — The fauna of Austria is, in f^eneral, the same as that of
Germany, and the remaiuder is common to Italy and Europeau
Turkey. Of the 73 apecies of Hamnialia iitbabitiiii; Ceotral Enri^,
41 ore camivora, 22 rodentia, 9 rumiuantia, and 1 pachyderm. The
foUowiDg are the prindpol apeoiea :— the bear, wolf, iox, lynx, and
chamois, in the Alps and Carpathians ; the marten, otter, marmot,
beaver, wild-boar, wild-cat, jaekat, stag, deer, hare, and rabbit, in
Dalmatia. Of the 305 species of birds beloiiRing to the same zoo-
logical province, the eagle, vulture, hawk, and other birda of prey,
■re common, in the mountains ; and the pheasant, wild-duck, white
heron, and game of all kinda, in the plains. Canaries are reared in
(peat numbers in the Tyrol, whence they are largely eiported.
Among the 31 reptiles the most remarkable is the Pnleui anguinrvt,
an animal resembling the water-lizard, found in Lake Zirknitz in
Camiola. Fishes are abnndant in most of the rivers, especially in
the Theiss and Lower DaDQbe, where the sturgeon and pike attain
to ■ vast size. The &esli-WRter iishes of Camiola alone amount,
Mcordiufc to Freyer, to 32 species. The inoriue specif which in-
dnde the mackerel, tunny, nnd anchavy, are embraced within
Forbea'a ' Mediterranean Region of Marine Ufe,' whii:1i also embraces
_ the Black Sea. A pearl-hearing mollusc inhabits the waters of
LXansarr, Bohemia, and the Archduchy of Austria, and a regular
""•rPfisnerj is established on the Vatava. Insects are abundant
268 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY,
in the low marshy grounds of Hungary, especially gnats and flies ;
bees, Spanish flies, and the cochineal insect, are reared in ffreat
numbers ; leeches are numerous on the Neusiedler See, and are
largely exported for medicinal purposes ; and corals are collected on
the coast of Dalmatia.
Ethnograpliy.— The people of Austria comprise four great races,
which, in 1869, existed in the following proportions, — ^viz., Sclavo-
nians, 16,200,000 ; Roumans (including Italians and Wallachians),
3,450,000; Germans, 9,040,000; Magyars, 6,430,000; Jews, Gyp-
sies, and other races, 1,354,000. The Sclavonians fonn the majority
in Bohemia, Moravia, Silesia, Illyria, Dalmatia, and Hungary, and
constitute almost the entire population of Galicia. The Koumans,
or people speaking Komannic languages, are numerous in the southern
part of the Tyrol and tlie maiitime distiicts of Illyria and Dalmatia.
The Germans predominate in Styria and the Tyrol, are very numer-
ous in Bohemia, and are almost the sole inhabitants of Upper Aus-
tria, Lower Austria, and Salzburg. The Magyars are the dominant
i-ace in Hungary and Transylvania. The Jews are most numerous
in the towns of Galicia, Bohemia, Moravia, and Hungary ; and the
Gypsies, Armenians, and Greeks, are scattered over all the eastern
provinces of the empire.
Language. — ^The languages spoken in this extensive empire belong to
four distinct families — viz., the Sclavonic, Teutonic, Greco-Latin, and
Finno-Tartarian. To the first belong the Rutsniaky spoken by the Sola-
vonian population of Galicia and Hungary; the Servian, in parts of
Dalmatia, Sclavonia, and Military Croatia, where it forms the vernacular
of about 1,300,000 ; the Bohemian or Tchekhian, spoken by from 8,000,000
to 4,000,000 of the population of Bohemia and Moravia, the Swwub or
Slovakiauy by about 1,800,000 in the N.W. of Hungary. The Slowaks
are descendants of the original Sclavonic settlers in Hungary, who, in 884^
were conquered by the Magyars ; but though a subjugated race, they
still retain their original language, as a remnant of their ancient national
existence. The second or Teutonic family of languages is represented by
the German, which is the language of the Court and of literature, and is
spoken by nearly 9,000,000 of the population, who reside for the most part
in the nine German provinces, and especially in the Archduchy of Austria,
Salzburg, Styria, and the Tyrol.— (See under "Germany,* where the
literature wiU also be found. ) The Greco-Latin family is mainly confined
to the coasts of the Adriatic, and is represented by three languages — ^?ii.,
the Italian, in the south of the Tyrol ; the WaMachian or Daea-Bemtnti,
in the south of Transylvania, into which it has spread from the TcuiJsh
provinces of Wallachia and Moldavia ; and the Albanian orAmamte, the
remains of a language long extinct, and which formed an intermediate
link between several distinct families, in the southern parts of Dalmatia.
The Amauts differ in language and physical conformation tmm all tiie
other nations of Europe, and are supposed *to be descended firom the
ancient lUyrians. The Finno-Tartanan family is represented hj the
Magyar or Hungarian^ which is spoken by 4,820,000 of the populatioii
of Hungary— the remamder consisting of Slowaks, Groatians, GennauL
RuBsniaks, Wallachians, and Jews. Tlie Masyars are a pecmle of Finnkii
extraction, and closely allied to the OstiaJcs and WognliL beriMrau
nordes who lead a wandering life in the upper and centnl usin of tti
iUSTRO-HUNGAHIAN EMPIRE. 2G9
Obi. Tliey catered Europe Id tlie iimtti century, sjid Etufadued Hungary
'n the short space of tea years ; anii though then di"^ ' " ' '
eawcta from the other SAvage tribflH of Central ^
BDk among the "~
in the short space of teu years ; anii though then diifering in few oi
Is from the other savage triboa of Central Asia, theT aow t
mong the rorBmost nsdons of Enrope in phyaiml, moral, and ii
t
lectual qnalitiflB. Their language l:aa eiperienced a similar transmuta-
tion, froin ita long-continued contact with Enropeaji civilisation ; hut it
■till retains those weli-mailied features nhich have always characteris(d
the Finniah branch of the linguistic family to which It belongs. For
example, tlie Magyar resolves its vowels into two classes, one of which
(a, □, n) denotes the masculine, and the other (e, I, H, il) the feminine :
and the individual words of the language are so formed that a masculine
■nd a feminine vowel are never allowed to meet in tha same vocable,
whether simple or compound. This curious characteristic of the Finnish
dialects strongly reminds the Celtic scholar of the well-known principle,
ItalAan rt Iml&jin it coot ri caolj or "broad to broad, and Hmair to
Jieligimi Accoriing to the 'Alraannch de Gotha ' for 1870, the dif-
ferent religlDufl persuasions in the empire contained the following nnra-
beiB in 1864 : Roman Cathnlics, 23,2S5,(K»[I ; Greek Catholics, 3,861,000;
Prol«»tanta (chiefly Reformed), S,1G5,00U; Jews, 1,121,000 ; Unitarians
d other sects, 63,000. The Protestants are chiefly found in the Hun
garian |iravinceB ; about half the Magyars are Calviuista, and a lai|:e
proportion of the remainder Lutherans, who are also nuTiierons in the
aprovinces. The adherents of the Greek Church are moat numer-
Gallcia,
S
all the eaatem provhicea.
SdHcaiion.— 01 late years education has made rapid advances througL-
out tho empire, though it is still far behind Prussia. In the German
and eastern pravinces a great obstacle to efficiency is presented by the
different larignages spoken by the pupils, there being sometimes no
fewer than three or four in a single school. The law requires that every
child between tlio ages of six aud twelve shall ha educated either in
sehcol or at home; while in the manufacturing districts no child is
allowed to he sent to a factory before completing bis ninth year, and even
then he is obliged to attend clossea twice a-week until fifteen years of
age. In some parts of the empire mairiage is prohibited until the parties
can prove their ability to read, wril«, and cipher. Tliere are eight iini-
Terailies in the empire — viz., at Vienna, ProgUB, GrStn, Olnilitz, Inns-
bitick, Leoiberg, Cracow, and Pesth. The number of students atten'ling
these, bi 1670, was 900(1, nne-tourth of wlioni belonged to the University
of Vienna, whicL is tlie aeat of the most famous medical school in
GovBnunent, Army ajid Hav?, Berenne, ftc, — The form of gov-
etoment is an herediCaiy, and, in some respects, a couKtitntional
monarchy. Previona to the late war with Prusaiit, tho Emperor of
' *a was all but absolute in Lis own domintona, and also occu-
lie first rank in the Qarmanic Confederation. Aa tlie result of
. It the liberties of his own aolijeotB. The entire empire m
sort of double state, one half consisting of the German pro-
3T Aostria Proper, and the other of the Magyar or Hungarian
270 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
provinces. Each of these divisions has its own parliament, laws,
ministers, and government, but are united into one whole by the
emperor, and by a common parliament, named the Delegations, con-
sisting of 120 members, chosen in equal numbers by the two grand
divisions of the empire. All matters affecting the common interests
of the two sections — especially foreign affairs, war, and finance —
come under the jurisdiction of this body. Army and Navy. — In
January 1871, the total number of troops, on the x)eace footing,
numbered 278,470, with 42,200 horses. The navy consisted of 45
steamers, carrying 639 guns, with 11,730 horse-i)ower, together with
10 sailing vessels, with 79 guns. Austria also possesses 24 fort-
resses, many of them of great strength. The Revenue, in 1870,
amounted to £51,241,000; the ^a;;>e7u2i^r«, to £58,438,000 ; and the
Public Debt, to £302,531,000. About a third of the entire revenue
is derived from direct taxes on land, houses, industry, and income,
and the remainder from indirect imposts, the chief items being
customs, and the duties on salt, timber, and tobacco. The public
debt is advancing at a rate which threatens national bankruptcy.
In 1846 it was only £103,000,000 ; in 1856, £241,207,000 ; while it
is now £348,531,000.
Commerce, ManufiBrCtureB, Exports, and Imports. — ^The foreign
commerce of Austria is comparatively unimportant, the sole outlets
being Trieste and Fiume on the Adriatic, and Constantinople and
Trebizond on the Black Sea, to which the only access is by steam
navigation on the Danube. The inland ti-ado, however, is very con-
siderable, the empire, owing to its vast dimensions, being compara-
tively independent of other countries. In 1868, the number of
merchant vessels that entered the port of Trieste was 11,056, carry-
ing 1,006,211 tons ; cleared, 10,956 vessels, carrying 1,052,068 tons.
The total value of the imports of the empire in 1871, excluding
bullion, amounted to £30,628,031, and the exports to £40,085,668.
Nearly two-thirds of both exports and imports is carried on with
North and South Germany. Austria's next best customer is Turkey,
which sends into the empire about £3,000,000 worth of goods annu-
ally, and receives Austrian exports to the value of above £5,000,000.
Italy, Russia, and the United Kingdom follow next in order, but at
a great distance. The principal commodities exported from Austria
to the British Isles are com, flour, hemp, tallow, glass beads, olive-
oil, wine, quicksilver, currants, cream of tartar, lard, seeds, shumac,
sponge, wood, and wool; while our chief exports to Austria are
cotton and woollen manufactures, averaging annually about £880,000.
Very little Hungarian wine finds its way to British ports, though, as
a wine-producing country, Austria is second only to France. The
manufactures of the empire are mainly confined to the Grerman pro-
vinces, and especially to Bohemia and Moravia. The former is cele-
brated for its linen, cotton, and woollen fabrics, and still more for
its manufacture of glass. Moravia is also much engaged in tiis
woollen industry, and has, in Brunn, the second largest manitfactiir-
ing town in the empire. The capital, however, is &e great seat of
wiiziii(L,vxD. 271
r tte manufacture of artii'lea of taste, as jtwfUerj-, glass, carriagi-s,
porcelain, silk, and books. Hungnry is very largely tngagcd in the
produution of wine and the metals. Mining alao forma an imiiortaiit
branch of industry in Bohemia and the mouutainoua parts of Upfier
Austria, Styria, and Cariuthia. Woodeu articles ai'e executed with
muah ingenuity in the Tyrol, while leather and linen gooda are
prodnced in all parts of the empire.
Intantal CommonicattoiL — The Danube, with its navigable ti'ihn-
taries the Theiei^ Save, and Dtave, is the great comujacuifl thorou"li'
fare of the amplre. The cun'ent of the main river ia so rapid that
__ 1 — J c. — .__ jjg j,[g(, eitenaively
The total extent of
4300 miles. There
a alone are now employed. Steamers
used on the other navigable rivers and lakes,
river navigatiou itt the empire ia estimated a
are few Canals, except ia lower HuDgaiy.
Kailwatb have made great progress, and onnnect the capital with tlie
most distant points of the empire. In 1B59, 208B miles were open tor
troiBG I andluIS?!, no fewer thaulD.DODm., embracing thefoUowIngprin-
oipal lines : Vienna to SHlmi, OlmUti. and Prague, and thence to Drert-
dsn and Berlin. Vienna to Troppau, Cracow, Lembetg, and Czemowitz.
Vienna to PressbuiB, Perth, SzBgsdin, and Tenieswar ; with n branch from
Ciegled to Grossuardein, Debruczin, and Tokay. Vienna to Baab, Eo-
mom, StUhlweissenburg, andWarssdin. Vienna to Gr£tz. Cilly, Laybach,
and Trieste ; with a branch from Cilly \a Agram. Vienna to Linz, and
thenoe to Rattsbon and Inuabriick. Another important line traverses the
Tyrol from Mniiich, in Bavaria, through the Brenner Pass, to Verona
and Venice. Excellent earriage-road) have also been constructed at
nvst eipenae between all the leading cities of the empire. That froni
Pavia in Italy to Czemowitz in Galicia, 1120 milea in leneth, Is carried
oorosa rivers and monntain-chaiiu, and ia niacadunised throuEhout,
^ Similar roads connect the capital with Prague, Buda, Trieste, and Milan.
I of aiity maimlaiii-pawei have bean rendered proeticBble for
leled carriages, at an enormous expense. Tlie principal of these are
* ' ■ le p. 261.
aerated above, s<
SWITZERLAND.
Position and Boandaries. — N., Lake Constance and
\ Qrand-duchy of Baden ; W,, France ; S., Italy ; E., the Tyrol
Lat. 45° Stf— 47° 60' N. ; loa B° 55'~10° 31/ E.
Bern, the federal capital, is nearly on the same parallel with Xantea,
GAtz, Jassy, Azov, and Astrakhan ; and nearly on the same meridian
M the Naze, MUnater, Straabourg, and Turin. The general outline is
elliptiaal; greatest length &om E. to W., 216 miles; eitreme breadth,
110 miles. The surface is more mountainous than in any other eountry
in Europe, two-thhils of the whole being occupied with lofty monntiiin.
chaial, and the remaining third consisting of an elevated plateau, about
ISOO feet above the level of the sea, and stndded with many beautiful
.-lakes. This plateau forms an elongated, undniathig plain, crossing the
■ -mntry from S.W. to N.E., with a length of about 140 m., and an aver-
9 breadth of betwi'an 20 and 30 m.
272 POLITICAL GEOGBAPUT.
Area and Population. — The area of the Confederation amounts to
15,716 so. m., being a little more than the half of Scotland; while
the population, in 1870, was 2,669,095, or four-fifths of the popula-
tion of Scotland, being 161 persons to each sq. m.
Political Divisions. — Switzerland is divided into twenty-two can-
tons, which comprise, however, twenty-five distinct states, three of
the cantons — Basle, Appenzell, and Unterwalden — ^being subdivided
into two states each. There are seven western cantons ; twdve
north-eastern, including the four forest cantoos of Schwyt^ lAizeniy
Unterwalden, and Uri ; and three southern cantons.
Seven Western Cantons.
Geneva.— Geneva 47 (Rhone), Carouge 6 (Arve).
Vand. — Lausanne 27, Vevay 6 (Lake of Geneva).
Pribourg.— FRiBOURa 11 (Sarine), Moral (Lake Morat).
Neuch&teL— Neuchatel 13, Vallengin 6 n. (Lake NeuchAtel), Chauz-
de-Fonds 20 n., Locle 8 n. (Doubs).
Bern.— Bern 36, Thun 5 (Aar), Bienne 6 (Lake Bienne), Langnaa 5
(Emmen), Laupen (Sarine).
Soleure.— Soleure 5, Olten 2 (Aar).
Basel- Basle or BIle 45, cap. of BMe Ville (Bhine); Liesthal 8, cap^
of B^e Campagne (Eigolz).
Twelve North-Eastern Cantons.
Aarg^u. — Aarau 5 (Aar), Baden 3 (Limmat).
Zurich.— Zurich 21, Wadenschyl 5 (Limmat), Winterthur 7 (Toess).
Schaffhausen.— Sohaffhausen, 10 (Khine).
Thurgau. — Frauenpeld 2 (Muig).
St GalL— St Gall 17 (Steinach), Sargans, Pfeffers (Bhine).
Appenzell. — Appenzell 3, cap. of Inner Rhoden, Herisaii 3 n. (SittemJ^
Trogen 3, cap. of Ausser-Ehoden (Goldach).
Glams.— Glarus 5, N&fels (Linth).
Schwytz. — Schwttz 2 (Muota), Morgarten (L. Sgeri).
Zng.— ZuG 4 (Lorze).
Luzem. — Luzern 15 (Beuss), Sempach (L. Sempach).
Unterwalden.— Stanz 2, cap. of Nidwalden (Engelbeig Aa), Sainai
8, cap. of Obwalden (Saruer Aa).
Uri—ALTORP 2, BUrglen, n. (Lake Luzem).
Three Southern Cantons.
Grisons.— CoiRE or Chub 5 (Rhine), Bemhardin, SplHigvn,
Ticino or Tessin.— Bellinzona 2, Locarno 8 (Tidno), Lugano 5 (Li3bs
Lugano).
Valais.- Sign or Sittbn 4, MarHgny, Leui (Rhone).
Descriptive Kotes. — The towns are remarkably few injofoportiaB
to the XK>pulation, there being only five (Geneva^ Blle^ Bcn^ Lm^
r
BWnZEItlAND.
GenarSi, finely sitanted on the Blinne, where it Usups from tlie lake,
is the largest city io Switzerland ; noted for its mannfactnre of watches
■nd jeweUsry ; has a Protestant college, and contains the federal araeoaL
The names of Calvin, Beza, Knoi, Cranmer, Lesage, Deluc, Lefort, Kona-
sean, Hecker, Saussnca, and De Candotle odoni the annala of this famooi
dty. lAoaanne, on the Lake of Geneva, in the midet of enchanting
tlons, Frlbonn;, a bnsy manufacturing town on the Sarine. fien-
chfttel, or Neofthitel, on the lake of same name, is a place of great
trade, eepeciall; in nine, com, cattle, and vatchea ; has a college, and a
cathedra! where the doctriiiea of the Eeformation were preached as early
aa 1530. ChaniHle-FondB, Uke QeneTa, la noted for ita mannractnra of
watches. Bern, the aeat of the federal diet, and therefore usually
regarded as the capital of Switzerland, pleasantly aitnated on the Aar,
and in pop. inferior only to Geneva and BMe ; baa a university, fonnded in
1H34 ; a puhlic library, containing nnmeroua books and MSS. on Bwiaa
history; numerous manufactures, especially of gunpowder, Rrearma,
mathematical Instrumanta, etraw-hats, paper, and leather ; the birthplace
of Haller the poet. Thun (pronounced Toon), on the Aar, near where it
issaea from the lake, is lenowned for its romantic situation. Soleora, a
■maJl town on the Aar, with a colleee, a pnblic library, and botanio
garden; here Kosciusko died in 1817. Basle or BUe {Gcr. Basel), a
celebrated and ancient city on the Rhine, near its great bend. It dates
from the fourth century, and in the eleyenth was the most powerful city
in Eelvetia; itwoa the seat oF a great council (1431-1437), and of a
inemorabia treaty between France and Prasaia in 179C : it la now the
■econd city in the confederatioa in point of population ; contains a univei-
■itr, and numerous mannfacturea of ailk ribbona : the birthplace of Euler
and Bemouilli, the celebrated algebraists, and of the two Holbeina ; here
also EraamuB died in 1536. Znnch, the Athens of Switzerland, contains
s university ; has important manubctures of silk and cotton fabrics ;
hflra Zwingle preached, and here the first entire English version of the
BcTiptures (CoTeniale'ai was printed in 1535 ; it is the birthplace of Gess-
ner, lAvater, and FestalouL Bchaifliausen, on the Rhine, near its pic'
tuiesqae falls, has a college, and several manufactures. I^anenfeld,a
small towa on the Murg, with cotton-mills and dye-works. St Gall,
Appeniell, and HsriMW., have eitensive manufactures of muslin and of
Bilk and cotton fabrics. Glama eiports cheese in great quantities, and
has printing and dyeing works. Lnlem.the cajj. of Catholic Switzer-
land, is celebrated for its beautiful sceoery, and has s lyceutn with It
professors. Altorf, famous for the resistance of William Tell to tha
tyrant Geaalar, in 1307. Coire {Fr. Chnr), in tha valley of the Upper
Rhine, bos an active trauait-trade and aoma manniacturea.
Uonntalna.— Switzerland is by far the most n
in Europe, and the one which coutaina the grandest scenery. Thero
are three principal rangea : —
Ttie Paniiu Alpi, in the 8.W., betnean Switzerland and Piedmont,
— ■• "letwean the basins of the Rhone and Po, contain Mont Blanc, ir
y, the loftiest aummit of the Alps, and now (sioce 1860) the col- ,
"-g point of France, 16.781 feet high; Great St Bernard, 11,080 J
274 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
feet ; Mont Cervin, 14,705 feet ; and Monte Rosa.- the culminating point
of Switzerland, 15,217 feet : height of snow-line, 8900 feet.
The Lepontine or Helvetian Alps, between Switzerland and Lombardy,
form the water-parting between the basins of the Rhine, Rhone, and Po :
highest summits, the Simplon, 11,510 feet, and Mount St Gothard,
10,900 feet.
The Bernese A Ips, between the cantons Bern and Valais, and between
the Aar and Upper Rhone : highest summits, Jungfrau, 18,718^ feat ;
Schreckhoni, 13,386 feet; Finster-aar-hom, 14,100 feet; the Qiimael,
9700 feet.
Mountain-FasBes. — The following are some of the most celebrated
passes among the Swiss Alps, arranged in the same order as the
mountain-chains : —
1. Pass of Great St Bernard, 8150 feet high, leads through the Pennine
Alps from Aosta, in Piedmont, to Martigny, in the ValaiB; travened
by Napoleon with his army in 1800 : the Hospice, erected at its highest
point, IS the most celebrated institution of the kind in all the Alps. 2.
The Cervin Pass, 10,938 feet high— the loftiest in Europe — ^leads from
Chatlllon, on the Dora-Baltea, to Visp, in Canton ValaLs. 3. The
SimpUm Pass, 6578 feet high, leads from Milan and Domodossola to
Canton Valais : it is a great work, executed by Napoleon at prodigious
labour and expense ; is 88 miles long, 30 feet wide, passes oyer 611
bridges, and through several extensive tunnels. 4. Pass qf St Ooth<ud,
6808 feet high, from Bellinzona on the Ticino, to Altorf on the Renss :
it is the only road carried over the crest of the mountains, aJl the others
being conducted through deep gorges and beds of mountain -torrents.
It is now a good carriage-way, and has long been a line of great commer-
cial Importance. 5. Pass of BemJyardin, 7015 feet high, from Bellin-
zona to Chur, one of the principal routes of commerce between Italy,
Switzerland, and Germany. 6. The Splikgen Pass, 6946 feet hi^h, frmn
Chiavenna in Lombardy to the Grisons, was pas»3d by a French aimv
in 1800, but greatly improved by the Austrian government in 1828, ani
carried through three covered galleries, which are the longest in the Alps.
It has now nearly superseded the Septimer Pass, 7611 feet high, wMch
was formerly the ordinary route from Eastern Switzerland into Italy.
7. The Oemmi Pass, through the Bernese Alps, 7595 feet high, leading
from Canton Bern to Valais, about 24 miles south of Thnn. 8. The
Grimsd Pass^ 7126 feet high, through the same chain, at the sontheni
extremity of the Hasll Valley. For the remaining passes across the Alpsb
see under "Italy" and "Austria."
Glaciers, fto. — The glaciers of the Swiss and Italian Alps are
among the grandest and most remarkable phenomena in nature.
They consist of huge masses of ice, or of snow that has been partially
melted by the heat of summer, but which has afterwarda been con-
gealed, and which, quitting the higher level, descend fax below the
usual snow-limit, into the region of cultiyatian.
This descent is owing to the inclination of the bed. the annual aoonmn-
lation of snow during winter in the higher levels, the vlseoiiiB or
fluid character of its structure, and other causes. The late of moti'
the descent is different in different glaciers, aocoiduig aa i^*
lust specified vary ; and it is continuous, though not iM^/bn
Delng wholly arrested, even during the most seven'
SWITZEBLAKD. 275
IncrettFes with the alope, while the aurfaeo and central psrtu movs faatar
than the bottom and aides. Ona celebrBted glacier (Mer de Olace) mores
■lown the sides of Mont BUnc, ia Bumoiei and sutunin, at the rate ot
4 feet per da; in some parts of its conrse. while in others it does not
exceed 8 or 9 inches. The total number of glaciers in the Alpa ii e«ti-
niated at 400, cnvering an ari^a of 1440 aqnare miles, and forming tha
Bonrces of several of the largest rivers in Europe, as wall as of their
principal afBuenta. Thus, the Rhine and Rhone originate in glaciers of
same name, on the opposiM sides of MontlSt Gothara ; and many of the
liead-watera of the Bhine, Rhona, Po, and Daunbe Jmci in the glnciera
a Dever-faillng supply of water. The princlpat region of the tme glacien
extends iroic Mount Pelvoui, in Dauphin^, to the Gross Olockner, in tha
Rhation Alps, east of ivhjch very few occur. llVo gronpa of glaciers are
partkularly celebrated— cue in the Pennine and the other in the Beruesa
Alps, or Obertand. The tirst ia the Group of Alont Blane, consisting of
34 anormoua glaciers, some of which are £0 miles long by 2 broad. It
includes the Mer da Glace, covering an area of IH sq. m. , one of the
laif;s3t glaciers in the Alps, which forms the source of the river Arveiroa,
sbotit 2 miles above the village Cbamonni ; and the Glacier de ia Brenva,
near Conimaysur, one of tha most beantit'nl and most accessible of all
known glaciera. The other is the Oroup of t6t Oberland, iti tha Bemeso
Alps, greatly moiH extensive than the former. It includes the great
Aletech Glacier, which has an area of 32 square mites, and which ia fed by
the snows of Mont Aletsch ; and the Claciar of the Lower Aar, which has
bean described and repeatedly visited by the celebrated Swiss natnmlist,
Avalaathti are tha most dangerous and terrible phenomena to which
the Alpine valleys are exposed. Tiiey originate in tiie higher regions ot
tha mountains, when ths accumulation of snow becomes SQ groat that
the inclined plane on which the mass rests cannot any lon^r lupport it :
niccesaive leap, both greater dimeosiona and increased spe«l, till,
riving at the lower vi^eyn, it covers, destroys, or carries a' — — ■
thing that opposes its course — tress, forests, honsss, rocks,
Walatfalu. — Among tha most oslsbtatad waterfalls h
may be enumerated the following : Fall of Lanuta, near SchaShauaea,
on tbe Rhine: it has a total dascsnt of 100 feet, and forms one of tlir
moat imposing phenomena of the kind In Europe. The Slaai-harh, ii
the I*nterbrunnen, Canton Bam, on the White Lutchine, an affluent a
tha Aar. This is one of the highest falls in Europe, the river piojecting> 1
itself over a precivics trom SOQ to 900 feet high. I'aU of Sandtk, on I
the Aar, sear tha Grimssl glacier. Fall qf OiuAadi, also on tha A"
near Lake Brienz. Fall ^ Rtitheihadi (a tributary of the Aar), n
MeyriBgan, in the Hasli Valley, and in the S.E. ot Canton Bern, f .
t)f Tola, on the river Toccia, m the Val Fornioiza, above DomodossDlSf
noted (or it* great volnme of water. Fait of SallmcAe, o " "* -
L «___. .. It. n,.„. i_ r'— ■-„ valais. and 10 m
fjliaeral Springt and JtarAi.—Switierland contains upwards of 3
■'^~' apriagi. 18 bath eatabUalmiants of the lint, i— ' '^° -' '
'^S3^
re thoia of 3chini
1 LiiuBiat. both in Cantol
D the ValaiB ; of Iavbi, 1)
'I UoriU, In the Vpe
276 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Ei^adine ; Grisons, &c. The first mentioned is chiefly fireqiiented hy
French visitors : the great bath-honse contains 160 baths, 360 beds, and
saloons in which 500 persons can dine tcmther : the temperature of tha
waters is abont 60° Falir. Those of Baden are sulphureous, have a trai-
perature of 117** Fahr., and are chiefly frequented by the Swiss.
Places of Historical Interest. — ^There arc many such in Switzer-
land, but the following are especially famous : —
Morqarten^ on the boundary between Schwytz and Zug, where, on the
15th l^ovember 1315, 1300 Swiss defeated an army of 20,000 men, under
Leopold of Austria, this being the first battle fought for Swiss independ-
ence. In 1798, the Swiss also defeated a French force in the same place.
TelVg Platte f by the lake of Luzem, where William Tell, the Wallace of
Switzerland, escaped from the tyrant Gessler. Sem-pack, on the lake of
that name, in Cimton Luzem, where, on the 9th July 1386, 1400 Swiss
routed 4000 Austrians : the action is rendered memorable by the heroic
death of Arnold von Winkelreid, and is celebrated by an annual festiTaL
Burglen, in Uri, where Tell was bom ; and A Itorf, in the same canton,
where he is said to have shot the apple off* his son's head. Morai, in
Fribourg, where the Swiss totally defeated the invading army of Chaiies
the Bold, Duke of Burerundy, 22d June 1476. Lawpen, Canton Bern,
where the Swiss, under Rudolf of Erlach, totally defeated the Austrians,
21st June 1339. Fravhrunnen, near Bern, where Enguerrand de Oouey,
a French noble, with an army of adventurers, was defeated by the Bern-
ese, in 1375. NdffiUy where the Austrians, invading Glams, were de-
feated, in 1388. * WildhavseUj in St Gall, where Zwingle was bom, in
1484 ; and Cappel, in Zurich, where he was killed in a skirmisih against
the Ositholics, in 1531.
Biver-Basins. — Switzerland comprises portions of four great
river-basins — ^those of the Rhine, Rhone, JPo, and Danube. It
is principally embraced, however, in the Rliine basin, wbich
contains an area of 75,000 sq. m., and 21 out of the 25 capitalB
of Switzerland ; while the Rhone basin (in all 37,900 sq^m.)
contains only 3, and the Po basin 1 capital For Tabular view
of Rivers and Towns, see " River System of Central Europe^"
imder " Austria," p. 261.
Lakes.— These are more numerous, in proportion to its dse, than
in any other European country, except Scandinavia and Finland.
The two largest are the Lake of Geneva (area 221 aq, m., heij^t
above the sea, 1230 feet) and the Lrake of Ck>n8tance (188 aq. m.,
height above the sea, 1200 feet). They all belong to the same three
river-basins as contain the 25 capitals : there are 10 in the basin of
the Rhine, viz., Z/oke Constcmce, or Boden See, in t^e l^.B., diained
by the main river ; 77tun and Brienz, by the Aar ; ^mrkh and
Wallenstadtj by the Limmat ; Ztig and Luzem, by fhe BensB ;
Bienney Neuchdtd, and Moral, by the Thiele. The Lake if Cmjw
is drained by the Shone ; and Maggiore and Lugano by tiia Tbdno^
an affluent of the Pa
Climate. — Owing to the great elevaticm of tha i
which is not less tl^ 1800 fee^ and the lofty xam
277
wfcioh cover tte greater part of the enrfane, thti climnte of Switzer-
land is GODsidBr&bly tdotb severe l^nji its ^ograpliical sitiiatioa
TFonld indiuote. Lying miflirny between the Pole End the Equfltor,
and in the same latitude as the central porta of France, its climate ii
tai more riRormis ajid variable, preaanting in rapid snoccssiuo the
graateBt eitremes of temperature and the inostTJoleDt contraata of
■weather. In Geneva, at an elevation of 12S0 feet above the sea.
tike thermometCT' ranges from SS°.9, the mean in winter, to 6S°,SS
In Bmnmer, whOe the mean annual iemjierature of the whole plateau
ia 4° lower than that of Engl&nd, The mean preeanre of the bar-
ometer at Geoeva is 27 inches, and the annnul fall of rain 29 inches ;
while on Mont St Bernard, which is 20 miles farther south, the thrai-
mometar ranges from 18° to 43° Fahi., the mean height of the hai-
ometer being 21 inches, and the fall of rain 65 inches. At elevatioua
of from IDOO to 1600 feet, the climate is pure and healthy ; but in
tbe deep and narrow vaUeya it is usually inaalnbrionB, and gcttre, or
lierl^mre neck, as also eretiniimi, are very prevalent. The vine
grows in the Talleys, and extends to an elevation of 1900 feet ; whila
oransei, olives, and pomegranatea come to maturity in the threa
Owtlog;. — The Alpine region in the B. contdsts for the most part
of crystalline rocks reposing on a granitic basis : a narrow belt of
secondary strata eitands N.E. from Martieny, dd the Eboue, to Chni
OD the Rhine, in the line of the Bernese Alps ; and another belt from
Geneva to Basle, in ths line of the Jura Monntains. The elevated
platean, between the Bernese Alps and the Jura Chaiit, constats of
tertiary strata. PaheoEoic rocks do not oocor.
^t?irraii.— The mineiBl products ore somewhat nnmenniB, hot not Bi-
tensively wrought : iron, lead, zinc, tin, and copper combined with ailrar,
are Tonnd in the QrisoiiH, but the mines are now ahandoned. Iron i*
woriied with advantage in the Jura Mountains ; coal in Zurich, St Gall,
AargBu, and Bnale ; rock-salt in Vaud ; saline and other mineml springs
at Berg, audinnonieraus other localities, a: also sulphur, Bsphalt. gj^panm,
marble, aiahaster, and limestone,
Satan;. — The indigenons yegetstion ia pecnh'arly rich and varied.
The chorsi^ristic Hums of all countries, from the Mediterranean to
the Sorth Pole, are here found arranged in aucceBsive belts on ths
ddes of the mountains, as we ascend from the deep sheltered vaUeya
to the Buow-i:iad smnmita. The following lones of '— '
easUy marked — (1. ) The vine. zone, in the Talleya, a
eieyation of !S0O fcct; (2.) Oak, 2600 feet; (8.) The E
nutsimd chestnota to 30D0 feet; (i.) Beechea, S2D0feet: (6.) Birchea. J
^_4£0llleet : (6.) Pine forests, spruce, larch, Scotch fir, and dwarf pii
■mod feet; (7.) Bhododendra, esODfeet; (S.) Alpine herbs, 7500 fe
^^K) Hosses and lichens, extending to the region of perennial sr
lor taoti
Jlffneullmt is well conducted, hnt
i woatUi is the rich
280 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Switzerland. There are several short Canals, one of which connects
the Lake of Geneva with Lake Neuch&tel, and another the lakes of
Zurich and Wallenstadt. RaUwaya have made ^reat progress within
the last few years, the following being the principal Imes : — ^That
from Yverdun to Lausanne connects the lakes or Neuchfttel and
Geneva; a second from Basle proceeds S. to Bern, and S.K to Lucerne ;
a third joins this in the E. of Soleure, and proceeds eastward through
Aarau, Zurich, and Frauenfeld, to Rheineck on Lake Constance, and
thence S. to Pfeffers (in St Gall), Chur, and Bellinzona, with branches
to Locarno and Lugano ; a fourth connects Winterthur with St Gall,
and another important line sets out from Geneva, skirts the lake to
Villeneuve, and thence to Martigny, in Valais. In 1868, there were
810 miles of railway open for traffic ; but, in 1870, there were 848 ul
ITALY.
Position and Boundaries. — Italy — the central and by far
the most interesting of the three great peninsulas of Sonthem
Europe — ^is bounded on the N. by the Alps, which separate it
from the Tyrol and "Switzerland ; on the W., by France and the
Mediterranean ; on the S., by the Mediterranean and Ionian
seas ; and on the E., by the Strait of Otranto, the Adriatic^ and
Ulyria.
Including Sicily, it is comprised between the parallels of 36* 42^ and
46** 42^ N., and the meridians of 6"* 55' and 18"* SO' E., and hence embraces
10^ of lat. and 12** of Ion. Rome, the ancient capital of Itahr, sHoated
almost exactly in the centre of this area (lat. 41 54', Ion. \V w'K\ is
nearly on the same parallel of latitude as Oporto, Saraffossa, Ajaodo^
Scutari, Adrianople, Sinope, Tifiis, Khiva, Pekin, Great Salt Lake Qty,
Iowa, and New York ; and nearly on the same meridian as OopenhagBO.
Leipzig, Munich, Venice, Tripoli, and St Paul de Loando. Toe genmu
outline bears a striking resemblance to that of a high-heeled bwt, ths
toe of which approaches Sicily, while the heel is directed against TnnE^y.
The extreme length of the peninsula, from the Alps to Cape Sptrti'vent(H
is 750 miles ; the average breadth is about 110 mues ; but between Xonfe
Blanc and the Isonzo it is 330 miles, while at the namywest part^ belwesu
Gaeta and Vasto, it is only 80 miles. The coast-line is estimated at S174
miles ; but, except in the S., the shores are but di^^TtiidAiited. Tbs
N.E. coast is low and flat, especially around Venice. The western sidtt
of Tuscany and Campagna di Boma are also low and InsdnMom^ bat
the remainder of the coast is considerably more elevated.
Area and Population. — Including Lombardy and VenfltMi leosnlly
acquired from Austria, but omitting Savoy and Nios^ now oedad to
France, the total area of the peninsula and iduida aiiioimti ft
112,677 sq. m., or considerably less than the area of ihs r ^
Isles; whue, in 1872, the population was 26,80l9000y or a]
elevenths of that of the United Eingdom. In x^
of population, the Kingdom of Italy xa;^ m ti|A
■••..*'.
rTALT. 281
Europe, being only suroaBsed by Belgium, lie Netherlands, and
the United Kingdom. There are 237 iJerKons to each eq. m., Lom.
bardj, Venice, and what was receo'tly known ns the States of the
Cburch, being the most popiilDiiB, and the old Kingdom of Sardinia
the least.
loUtlcal DlTlBlonR. — As the resolt of recent revolutionB in Ttaly,
out of the eix independent etates formerly existing ia the jieninsiila
— via,, Sajilinia, Parma, Modeca, Tuscany, Najiles, and the Ponti-
fical States — there ia now only one atate— the Kingdom of Italy,
formed in 1861, whose sovereign is Victor Emmanuel, and which
has Rome (and no longer Florence) for its capital. Parma, Modena,
TuHCany, and part of the Papal States were annexed to Sardinia in
1859 ; tombardy and Venetia in ISSS ; and the entire remainder of
the Papal States in 1870. For administrative prnTioaes the former
seven monarchies — Sardioia, Forma, Modana, Tuecany, Ifaples.
with parts of Austria, and the States of the Cburch — now embraced
within that kingdom, were, in 1S62, divided into 69 diatricta,
named in general after their respective chief towns. These are
grouped into 16 provinces, which, with their principal towns, are aa
followa :—
Piedmont and L^ila.*— Turin2I3. Casa]e2G, CarmognolalS.Salnzzo
16 {Po), Vigevano 18 (Tidno), Norara 37 {Tenioppio), Voghera 13
(Staffoia), Alesaandria 57, Asti SO (Tanaro), Fossano 17, Coni 20 ISturs),
Mondori 11 |Pes[o), Veroelli 25 (Seaia). Bacconigi II, aavigliano 17
(Malra), Pinerolo 16 (ansone), San Benjo 10, Genoa 130, Savona 11,
Chiavari 10. Speida H (G. of Genoa). Tortona 13, Novi 11 (ScriTio).
Tdubu hL BOOO ana 10.000 InkoMftinU— Yaleaa, Trtno, OhlvuBO, Wonoig-
Ilul, Carigluno, VilloftimisB, Cavone, Barge, Treoate, Olegglo, Jtrannjro-
* !□ prDQonnalng Ttaljia proper names, tha stadent will
lowing nilea : —
H ^ a In EDgUih/w. as In Uortin, Noviro,
( = MiiinMi(. SBMpHiDalFisa. ArplDO(ifH-«!s'Tia.i>ee',
ltd bfth
doppio.
BufliiS
a, Pe-na'Ja, P
Lncoi, Porogfa, Poimolt (Loot'jto
ai = ai In oiih, u Main, Cafro (JTf 'ni, Kin).
(W = am In ndu, aa In Asw (Ow'w).
at makes two Byllahlm. u in OaeU (Oo'e-M).
is alio makes two ejUables, u Pienia, Pimnonto, Tri«te {Pt-ta'ia, Fit-mm'li,
IVi-Mf or IVi-rfU).
e and M bflfoie a, o, u = it. *■ Cassia, Uoauoo, Lncca ; hot bnftin r, 1, u = ;A
in ehvmh, m in Tlcino. Placmn, Lecea (Ti-ehf-no, IH-a<hm'ta, LifeM.
— --■ s,C]DsaM(A«'M4,St^'na.i:^'Uk
c/i = ehtamimank,i»B«xULObita»,ia<SeaU
Bio, ew, «<u = «Aa, «Mi Shu In BagUslL ■* Ptsa
0 benin s. a, n = g In gmt, as Qnela, Borga, I?
itlt, u Oenova, Olrgenti (Jt-nn'm. Jir^m'U).
asi,
uAtehem.V
1. MFagUnni
•r A SfUil-
\ PUMi,
latAaa.
Ptsoli. UlMIO (fWsiu), Jf
(hMAa-.litiUitatt,
282 FOUTICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Island Sardinia.— Cagliari 31 (S. coast), SaHsari 25 (Turritano), Orla-
tano 7 (Oristano).
Quarto, Bosa, Alghero, Ozieri, Sempio, Igleaias.
Lombard^. — Milan 200, fiusto-Arsizio 10 n. (Olona), Viadana 14,
Casal-Ma^ore 15, Cremona 31, Codogno 10 n. (Po), Brescia 40 (Mella),
Lodi 19, Como 18 (Adda), Bergamo 39 (Brembo), Monza 16 (Lambro^
Pa^^a 30 (Ticino), Voghera 10 (Staffora).
Varese, Revere, Villafinanca, Lonato, Sale, Pontevico, Boresina, Chiari, Trevig-
lio, Lecco, Sondrio, Crema, Caravaggio, Boighetta, Binasco, Abbiate-Grasso.
Venetia.— Venice 129, Bassano 12(Brenta), Adria 11 (Po), Oonzagol6
n. (Secchia), Mantua 30 (Mincio), Cavarzere 12, L^^nago 10, Bovigo 86,
Verona 67 (Adi^e), Est^ 11 (Agno), C!hioggia 27, Padna 66, Vicenza 23
(Bacchiglione), Treviso 18 (Sile), Belluno 14 (Piave), Udine 28 (Boja).
Mestre, Cittaddla, Lendinara Tiene, Schio, Conegliano, Feltre, SerravaUa.
Emilia.— Parma 46 (Parma), Ferrara 68, Guastalla 10, Piacenza 40
(Po), Pontremoli 11 (Magra), Modena 32 (Secchia), Finale 12 (Panaro),
Keggio 30 (Crostolo), Carrara 6 (Avenza), Massa 15 (Frigido), Bologna
116 (Reno), Imola 11 (Santemo), Faenza 30 (Lamone), Ravenna 50, Forli
38 (Montone), Rimini 38 (Ansa).
Comacchio, Cervia, Lugo, Borgo, San Donino-Mirandola.
Umbria and the Harcbes.— Pesaro 11 (Fc^lia), Ancona 46, Rinigaglia
11, Fano 20 (Adriatic). Jesi 19, Fabriano 17 (Esino), Osimo 16 (Miu(me),
Recanati 19, Macerata 19 (Potenza), Tolentino 11, OBmerino 12 (Chienti),
Fermo 18 (Fermo), Ascoli 11 (Tronto) : Perugia 44 (Tiber), Tenii 15
(Nera), Rieti 14 (Velino), Spoleto 7 (Marogia).
Urbmo, Ixneto, Orvieto, Gubbio, Fo^gno.
Tuscany.— Florence 167, Empoli 16, Pisa 51 (Amo), Volterra 18 (En),
Peschia 12 (Nievoli), Pistoja 22 (Ombrone), Prato 12 (Bisenzio), Arezzo
37, Montepulciano 12 n. (Cbiana), Lucca 65 (Serchio), Leghorn 97 (W.
coast), Siena 25 (Arbia).
Montevarchi, Foppi, Vinci, Ck)lle, Cortona, Castel-Fiorentino, Torta-Vvmio,
Grosseto. *
latium.— Rome 244 (Tiber), Viterbo 14 (Arcone), CivitaVeccUa 10
(W. coast), Velletri 13 (Astura), Alatri 11 n. (Cossa).
Frosinone, Tivoli, Cometo, Bolsena, Astura, Albano, Teixadna, AoM^ai,
Falestrina, Pontecorvo.
Campania.— Naples 447, Portici 12, Giugliano 11, Afira|g;ola 16 s.,
Pozzuoli 15, Torre del Annuuziata 15, CasteUamare 20, Resma 12 (Bar
of Naples), Gaeta 15 (G. of Gaeta), Teano 12, Aipino 12 n.. Son IS
(Gari^liano), Capua 8 (Voltumo), Benevento 20, Anano 18 n. (Galon),
Avellmo 21 (Sabbato), Caserta 28 n., Maddaloni 18 il, ATena 16 n.,
Aceira 12, Nola 12 (Lagni), Samo 15 n. (Samo), Salerno 21 (G. of SalemoX
Fondi, Sorrento, Nocera, Amalfl, Baccino, Sala, Policastro, Trqfa, Bovino.
Calabria and Baailicata.- Reggio 80 (Star. Messina), Oatansaro 18,
Rossano 14 (E. co.), Cosenza 18 (Crati), Potenza 9 (Basente), Mateia 14,
(Gravina).
Marsico, Oppido, Paola, Pizzo, Falmi, Scylla, Cotrone, fhiiiiwmo, GHtaorilkiL
Apulia.— Altamura 17, Gravina 14 (Gravina), Tuanto 27 (G. of Tn^
anto), Lecce 15, Brindisi 10, FrancaviUa 17 jl, Gioja 17 Jl, Oskodlflb
Mola 12, Bari 50, Bitonto 22, Molfetta 22, Tnmi ^Ooiato 26^ Andria
80, Terlizzi 18, Barletta 27 (E. coast), Cerignola 17, Minsrviiio U s..
rHelfl 10 (Ofanto), Fpgyia 34, Lncera IS (Salsola), San Severn 17 (iladi-
Gsllipoli, Nardo. MajJredonia, ■Vieitl,
AbnuEO and MolisB. — Caropoliasao 14, Vaeta 12, Lanciano 1 8 n., Ortons
13 (AdriBtict, C!iieti 16, Snlmona 13 E., Aquila 10 n. (PeBcara), Teramo
lU (Trontino).
Island of Sicily.— Palermo 220, Termini 26, Cafiiln 11, MiatrdU 11,
Milazio 10, Partinico 19, Alcamo 19 n., Monrealo 12 n. (N. coast), Tra-
[lani 30, Marsala 31, CastelVBtrano IS fW. cobeII, Sciacca 14, QirgenU MO
n., Alicflta 13, Terranova 14, Soicli 10 (S. coaatj. Nota 13, SyracusB 14,
Agosta 14, Calania 84, Acireale 35, Messina 112 (K coast), Corieone 16
(Belid), Naro 10, Canicatli 20 (Naro), CaltanisettalS n., Caatrogiovanni
14 (Salso). Maziaiino 11, Piiasa 20, CaltagironB 22 n. (Terranova), Vit-
toria 15, ComiBO 16 (Comieo), Raeuaa 22 (RaensaJ, Modico 30 (Bcidi/,
Paternol4, Nicosia 14 (Giaretta|, Lipari 14 (I. Lipari).
Sm Utuino.~SAN Uasino fi (Ansa, above Eimini).
Deaerlptlve MotM. — The Kingdom of Italy, after its alwofption ol
the Papal Territory, contains ten cities of more than 100,000 in-
habitants (Naples, Kome, Turio, Milan. Palermo, Gcdos, Florence,
Bologna, Venice, and Measiua) ; twelve cities rangioe betweea
100,000 andSO.OOO (LezliorQ, Catania, Ferrara, Verona, jUesaaadria,
Kavenna, Modena, Fadna, Pisa, Reggio, Lucca, and Parma) ; sixty-
live citiea with less than 50,000. bat above 20,100; while there are
about one hundred and forty with between 20,000 and 10,000 in-
habitants.
Tniin {one. Augnata Taurinorum, llaL Torinoi, capital of Piedmont,
ranks 08 the first eitj in Italy for lie namber and importance of its Utar-
ary institutiona, araongat wMch the DnivBraitv occupies the Hnt place. It
was an important placB even in the time of Hannibal, who deatroved it ;
but Augustus made it a Roman colony. Near Turin, on tlie S.W., ars
the three vaUeya which in the middle ages fonned the home of the Wal-
denaes, the early pionacra of the reforroed religion. Casale, once ths
capita! of the celebrated Maiijuisea of Montferrat, has an important
maaufactoty of Bilk twist. Vigevano, occupied with the manirfaclure of
■ilk stnSs, hats, soap, and macaroni. Alesaudila, a large fortified town ,
on tiia Tanara, wiUi extensive trade and two annual fans. Aiti, celo-
bnted is the middle igea for its iudnst^ and commerce ; the birthtila<« '
of AlSeri, the dramatist, in 1749. The country around abonndi to
mine™] spriuj^ and prodnces the heil wines in Piedmont. TercelU
contains a valoabie library of old MSS., including a copy of the lav- -*
the Lombards, and a US. of the Gospels, written by Eniebiui ii
fourth century : it cairiee on a Urge trilB in rice, which is raised ii ,
vicinity. BMconigi and Bavigluno, with important manufBctiim of ]
silk, Imen, and woollen fabrics. Tinerolo, a trading and mannfactnring j
town it the foot of the Alpa. Marengo, memorable for the decisive vto» 1
tcryotthe French over the Austrians, 14th June 1 BOO. Genoa(fIaL J
Genova, tfitf , Genua), a celebrated and ancient city, originally the chkl 1
town of the Lignnsnie, did not rise to any hiitonol ImporUnce ontU Uw ■
imjdgUsaeea from the lltb to the IStb century it wis Itaiq
■callaleI1^laI lepBblic, which planted nmceroos colonics in tlw ^
. . . m thediomofthe Blseit Bco. It was taken by the Frendl T
U 87, Mtd ceded t« Sudidla b U15. It ii a Qo>ariihing seaport, th» I
284 POLITICAL GEOaRAPHY.
seat of a nniversitr, and of extensive trade : was the birthplace of Colum-
bus, in 1435. I^ovi: here the French were defeated by the Austro-
Bussian army in 1799. Cagliari (anc. Caralis), originally a Carthaginian
colony, and the capit-al of the island Sardinia under the Bomans, is a
fortified maritime city, the residence of a viceroy, and the seat of a uni-
versity. Sassari, the most important place in the island except Cagliari,
has a university, museum, and public library, and a trade in tobacco and
fruits. Milan {Ttal. Milano, anc. Mediolanum), formerly capital of the
Lombardo- Venetian kingdom, an ancient, populous, and magnificent city
on the left bank of the Olona ; adorned by numerous elegant public build-
ings, is of a circular shape, enclosed on three sides by a wall surrounded
by broad ramparts nearly eight miles in circumference. From its posi-
tion on the great line of railway leading from Venice to Turin, and ott
the principal route across the Alps, it is favourably situated for trade.
Milan was the ancient capital of the Insubres, who founded it, B.O. 400 ;
was taken by the Romans, B.o. 222; was inhabited and embeUished by
many of the Roman emperors. On the division of the empire ondfflr
Diocletian it became one of the capitals, and continued to be the resi-
dence of the Emperors of the West till the invasion of the Huns, who
took and plundered it. The poet Vu^gil studied at Milan ; it was the see
of St Ambrose, and the birthplace of many popes and eminent men ; was
capital of a republic in 1056 ; in the end of the 14th century was made
the capital of the Duchy of Milan ; passed successively under the do-
minion of Spain, Austria, and France ; in 1805 became capital of tiie
Kingdom of Italy ; was restored to Austria in 1815 ; was taken by the
French and Sardinian army in 1859, and ceded to Sardinia by the treaty
of Villafranca in the same year. Cremona, a fortified city on the Po, long
famous for its violins. Brescia, an important commeibial and manufac-
turing city, noted for its fine wines, cutlery, and firearms. Lodi, cele-
brated for the decisive victory obtained by Napoleon I. over the Aus*
trians in 1796. Como, at the S.W. extremity of the beautiful lake of
same name, has extensive manufactures of cloth and sil^ and is the
Dirthplace of the Younger Pliny. Bergamo, a fortified city, with nume-
rous manufactures, and a great annual fair, at which the sides some-
times amount to £1,200,000. Honza : here are kept the r^pilia and
iron crown of Lombardy. Pavia (Ticinum, and afterwards Papia) U a
place of historical interest ; has a university, founded by Charlemagne^
m wL^h Spallanzani and Volta were professors. Venice {IkU, VenedUy
ane. Venetia), a famous city of Italy, built on piles in the centre of a Ian
lagoon, was for many centuries tne capital of a celelnated lepabll
which dates its origin from the invasion of Attila in 46^ and whic
attained its acme of x)rosperity in the 15th century, vhen it vai
reckoned the first maritime and commercial power in the woricL It
began to decline in the 16th century, and its overthrow was oom^etad
by Napoleon in 1797 ; it was made over to Austria in 1814^ andnow vonni
the capital of the province Venetia. It is the birthplaoe of Oanova, one
of the greatest of modem scxdptors : and Titian, the pzfaice of poirtnifc-
painters, was bom in its vicimty. Bagsaao : hero fha Fxench OBlfaatfid
the Austrians in 1796. Adria, an ancient seaport town, vUdh gin« tti
name to the Adriatic, is now fourteen miles inland, and in the oontn oC
the delta of the Po : contains many remains of spHendid edifloei.
a strong fortress on the Mincio ; the poet Vligu wu bom in f
Verona, a large, strongly-fortified city on the AidUp^ '"''
interest, and containing numerous Boman zenwina.
theatre, the most perfect of its kind now ezliti'
I
mnks and Bilk-miUa ; and the birthplai^e or ComBlius Nepos, Catullus,
the elder Pliny, Paul Veronese, nnd several otjier eminent men. Chiog-
gia, on au island in the Venetian lagoon, is a fortified seaport town of
eonsiderable commorcial importance. PadnSii acekbrated and strongl;
fortified city on the Bocohiglioue, witli a university once very famona
' ittended by 1800 atudents, among whom were Tasso and Coliuubiu.
the tirthpUoe of Livy the historian, anil Belmni the traveller.
^eenza, an important manHfactnring city, exlenaivcly engaged in the
'^Ik trade ; birthplace of Palladio, Treviaa and Ddina have numerous
urafaetareH of ailk, cotton, linen, snil paper. ParmB, formerly cap,
durhy of some name, haa some silk mannfactiires and a fine picture-
gallery. Piacenu (anc. Placential waa founded liy the Romans, b.c. 21(1.
as a protoction gainst the recently-aabdaed Oaula. It is a weU-built
and handsome city, adorned with many fine works of art. Hero Han-
nibal defeated the Komans, B.C. 21S; it is the birthplace of Pope Grfr-
gory X., Cardinal Alberane, Pidlavieiui, and Laurentius Valla. Uodena
{anc Mntina), of Celtic oriein, and the hist place which the Romans took
from tire Boii, was forraBrly cap. of duchy of same name ; contains a
nnivorsity, botanic garden, and rich cabinets of natural history. Seggio,
a fortified city on the Crostolo, the birthplace of Arioato in 1474, and
of Corraggio, thepaintor,ii]1494. Canara ond Maaia have famous quar-
ries of statuary marble. FlorenM lane. Florentia, I<at. Firinie), for-
merly cap. of IliB Grand Duoliy of Tuscany, end then of the Kinedom
of Italy, is a walled city on the Arno, surroundeii by most deli^htAil
BfiBnery, and adorned by many magnificent works of art. The Ploi-en-
tine Gallery contains the richest collections of paintings, acnlpturs, and
antiqnitiea in the world; also a university, and nnmeroua scientific
and educational estabUshinenls ; various manufactures of silk, carpets,
Btraw-hats, mosaic work, porcelain, and .jewellery ; birthplace of Dante,
Leonardo da Vinci, Boccaccio, Uadiiavetli, Amerigo Vespucci, Van-
nuchi, Cellini, and Pope Leo. X. Pisa, an ancient decayed city on tlio
Amo, containing many noble edifices built of marble— a fine cathedral —
a famous leaning tower, 178 feet in height, the topmost story of which
overhangs the base about 13 feet — au ancient university, which is still
the great csntre of education In Tnscany. Pisa was one of the twelve
cities of ancient Etruria ; from the lOth 1o the 14th century it was the
capital of anenlerprisin^; republic; and here Galileo was bom In 1561.
Tolterra, with numerous Etruscan antiquities : in the vicinity are singular
borai lagoons, rich copper-mines, brine-aprings, aall-worka, and quar- I
Ties of alabaster, fr«m which beanijfnl vasaa are largely ejiportod. FlI- I
tcgft claims the mvention and first manufacture of pistols ; and continuM j
to construct firearms, cutlery, and surgical instmments. ftatOinnma*' i
roos manufactures and copper-works for smelting the copper found in I
its vicinity. Aiexto {one. ArreUum), one of the twelve Etruscan citiel r J
birthplace of Mecnuuia, Pettaroh, Michael Angelo, Vasari, Onido, aoA M
Bsdi. I.nec«, originally a Ligorian town, has an ancient amphitheaUv J
B state of preservation, and of great siie ; a cathedral «
e paintings ; :
d for its mine
.-„. ; manufactures of silk,
s mineral baths. Leghorn (ItaL Li
twelve indepeni' ' "'
U the fall of Ui
g remains nf nntlqitlty : It
286 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
the remains of Smollett the novelist. Siena was the capital of a power*
fal republic in the middle ages, when it contained 100,1)00 inhabitants ;
several magnificent public edifices adorned with paintings of the Sienneae
school, and contains a university. The mountains in the vicinity contain
rich marble quarries. Ferrara (Forum Allieni), capital of a delegation,
and the most northern city of the Papal States, on an arm of the JPo ; is
fortified and garrisoned by Austrian troops. It is the seat of a famous
university, at which Ariosto was educatect ; contains a public library of
80,000 voliunes, besides numerous MSS., including some of Ariosto and
Tasso ; and was for a time the asylum of Calvin, Marot, and other re-
formers. Bolonia (Bononia), once the cai>ital of the Etruscans, and now
of a legation. In regard to population, it is the second city of the Papal
States ; is the seat of a famous university, which, in 1841, had 560 stu-
dents; the birthplace of Galvani, Aldrovandi, Malpighi, the painters
Guido, Albano, Domenichino, and the three Caracd. Faensa (Faventia),
long celebratea for its earthenware, and supposed to have been fhe first
ItaUan city where the manufacture of that article was introduced. It
was the birthplace of Torricelli. the inventor of the barometer. BaTenaa*
a very ancient town, founded oy the Pelasgi ; the residence of the em-
perors when Italy was threatened by the barbarians, and one of the prin-
cipal stations of the fleet. It is rich in antiG[uitie8 of the eariy nuddle
ages. Forli (Forum Livii), the seat of a umversity, and of a cardinal
le^te; possesses considerable trade and manufactures. Tt-fmiTil (An-
mmum), originally an Umbrian town, was colonised by the Romans, B.a
268 ; became the seat of a great ecclesiastical council, A.D. 359 ; and has
important sulphur-mines in the vicinity. Ancona, capital of a delegation,
and a fortified seaport, which is one of the best frequented in Italy.
Loreto owes its origin to a famous chapel of the Vimn, over wluch a
magnificent church has been built. XTrbino (Urbinum Hortenae), capital
of delegation Urbino e Pesaro ; contains a aucal palace, a cathedxal, a
college, and a manufactory of pins, and was the birthplace of Baphaal in
1483. Perugia {anc, Perusia) was one of the twelve Etmscan cities:
under the empire it was the most important city of Etruria, and long de-
fied the power of the Goths. Some of the most interesting Etruscan anti-
quities niave been found here. It is now the capital of a delegatioin, soad
only noted for its two great annual fairs. Tend, noted for t£e xna^mifi-
cent waterfalls in the vicinity, unrivalled in Europe, though of artrndal
origin. Sieti {anc. Reate), situated in a lovely valley, which is said to
rival in beauty the Thessalian Tempe. Gubbio (one. Igavium) : here were
discovered, in 1444, in the ruins of tne temple of Jupiter, seven bronze tabks
with Umbrian inscriptions, forming most interesting remains of that lan-
guage ; they are known as the Eugubian Tables, and ara stillpreseorved at
Gubbio. XTaples, formerly capital of the kingdom of the Two Sicilies,
beautifully situated on the bay of same name, is by far the most popul-
ous city in Italy. It is very ancient, having been founded about roar
centuries before the Christian era. It is the principal seaport of southern
Italy, and the centre of its learned institutions. In its vicinity are the
celebrated ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum, which wero buried during
an eruption of Mount Vesuvius (a.d. 79), and accidentally discoyeredin
1720, since which time the excavations have brought to light manyof tlie
most valuable relics of antiquity. Castellamare : here the cdder Flfaiy
perished in the catastrophe which buried Pompeii. A.D. 79. Gaitfti a
fortified seaport town, which formed the asylum oif^ Pius IX., uriben, in
1849, he fled from Rome, to join the fugitive King of Naples. Capu !■
strongly fortified, and is the only fortress that covers tna appcoach t9
r
ITALY. 287
Naplaa. BsnflTentO was the seal of several counnils in the eleventh anil
twelfth centuries. AvBlllno : near it the Val di Gargano, famous for the
Tiotar; of thB Bamnites over tbe RonuuiB, in the year of Rome 43S.
Balamo, noted for its aaciant school of maiiicine, contains a uniTBisitj-.
Baggio, DppDsits Meaaina, is the most southern city and seaport of con-
tinental Italy, and very ancient. It was tmiohad at by St Paul on hii
Toynga to jRome. Taranto, an aLcieiit city of great historic celebrity,
but now a place of little importance. Barletta, a fortified seajJort town,
carrying on a brisk coasting trade. Foggia, is considered the second city
in Naplea far Health and im^iortance. Aqoila, birthplui^e of Sallust, is
one of the most commercial cities In the kingdom of Naplea. Palermo,
capital of Sicily, and the fourth city in Italy aa regards po^nlation, is of
Tery ancient origin, having been rounded by the PhtBuiciana. It ia a
rciona and wall-built city, with eitensive commerce. It was tlie scene
the masaaera called the "Sicilian Vespers" (in 1283), which, com -
mencing ia the freak of a Frenchman who had insulted a Sicilian lady
going to church, ended in the extermination of every Franchman in the
uland. Trapanl, a hnsy commercial town ei^aged in the coral fishery.
Mareala, noted for its wines, which it largely eiporta to England. Qlr-
nntl, a very nnoient and celebrated city, is the chief port in Sicily for
the exportation of sulphor. Syracnae, founded hy Corinthian colonials,
B.o. 734, was for ages a place of great hiatoric importance : it was ths
birthplace of Archimedea, and the rssidanca of Plato and Cicero, but has
now dwindled into inslgnihcence. Catania, at the foot of Mount Etna,
and the third moat important city in Sicily, has been repeatedly ruiaed
by earthquakes : the housea are built and the streets paved with lava : it
has manufactures of silk, and warea made of lava and amber, and exports
com, macaroni, olives, figs, raw silk, wine, and snow from Mount Etna,
XeMina, the most populous city in Sicily, except the capital, which it
equals in commercial importance. The harbour is reearded as one of the
fi£est in Europe, and ia well fortiDed. The Strait of Messina, with a rock
named Scylla on the one side, and an eddy called Charybdia on the other,
ms much dreaded by ancient mariuera. Liparl, in an island of same
name, exports pnmice-stone to all parts of the world, aa also anlphur,
Dltn, and soda. Eome, on left bank of the Tiber, cap. of the Kingdom
of Italy, is, next to Jerusalem, the most celebrated city in the world. It
wai founded B.C. 763 ; at the beginning of our era it had upwnrda ol
1,000,000 inhabitants, and was the mistress of the then known world; in
A.D. ilO it WHS conquered by the Goths under Alaric ; it was given to the
Jiopes by Pepin and Charlemagne in the eighth century, since which time
It baa been the capital of the Pontifical States. Rome is unrivalled for ita
artiatic and architectural riches, but has a sad and deaolata appearance.
The Btreets are narrow, dirty, and unpaved, the finest palacea and the
most -wretched hovels being in eloaeat jnitaposition. The Cathedral of
8t Peter's is the largest and most snmptuons structure of tbe kind In the
world, and the Vatican Palace adjoining is the permanent residence of tlio
Dopes. The university, which dates from 124, is well attended, but is
lesa celebrated than the college of the Propaganda, in which natives of all
paita of Europe are trained aa miasiouaries for jpropagatiiig the " Catholic "
faith throughout the world. Civita Tsodiia, the principal seaport of the
Pontifieal States. Telletri, the birthplace of the Emperor Augustas, b.o.
tS. SanHarina, the capital of one of the smallest and most ancient
ope, which has an area of only H aqoare miles, luul a pop
S Inhabitants, who are chiefly ocoapled in meal Induatr}' a]
288 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Capes and Islanda— Piombino and Argentaro, in Tuscany ; Cizw
cello, S. of Latium ; Palinuro and Yaticano, W. of Campania,
Spartivento, Nau or Colonna, and Leuca, S. of Calabria; Otrantoand
Gargano, in the Adriatic ; Passaro, San Yito, and Bas Cidmo, in
Sicily; Teulada and Carbonara, S. of Island of Sardinia. The
Italian islands are arranged into fonr groups or clusters — yiz., the
Sardo-Corsican, Sicilian, Maltese, and Ponza groups.
The Sardo-Corsican Islands, separated from the mainland by the Tyr-
rhenian Sea, are chiefly Sardinia (the second largest island in the Medi-
terranean ; area, 9167 sq. m. ; pop. 588,064) ; Corsica, which belongs to
France ; and Elba. The Sicilian Oroup, which nearly connects the Ita-
lian peninsula with the African coast, consisting principally of SicUy
(the largest island in the Mediterranean ; area, 11,1^ sq. m. ; popiUa-
tion, 2,392,414) ; the Lipari Islands (Stromboli, la^iri, Vulcano, etc.),
Ustica, Favignana, and Pantellaria. The Maltese Gfroup, belonging to
Great Britain, and consisting of Malta (area, 98 sq. m. ; pop. 13i,0d6) ,*
Gozo, and Comino. The Poma Oroup, W. of Naples, chiefly Ponay
Ischia, and Capri
Seas, Oulte, and Straits (all forming parts of the Mediterranean) :
the Tyrrhenian Sea, between Italy and the Sardo-Corsican Islands ;
Ionian Sea, between Italy and Greece ; Adriatic, between the Itab'an
and Hellenic peninsulas. Gulfs of Genoa, Gaeta, Naples, Salerno,
Policastro, and St Eufemia, on the W. side ; of Squillace and Taranto
on the S. ; and of Manfredonia and Yenice in tne Adriatic Str. of
Messina, between Calabria and Sicily ; Bonifacio, between the islands
Corsica and Sardinia ; Otranto, between Apulia and Turkey.
SurflEuse and Mountains. — Italy embraces three great natural
divisions— viz., first, the great plain of Lombardy in the north, be-
tween the Alps and the Apennines, sloping towards the Adriatic,
watered by the Po, Adige, and other streams, and extremely fertile ;
second, the long, narrow peninsular portion, projecting into the
Mediterranean in a south-easterly direction, and having the long
mountain-chain of the Apennines as its back-bone; and, third, Sicily,
Corsica, and Sardinia, or the insular portion. Corresponding to
these, there are, in like manner, three great mountain-ranges ; the
first of which (the Alps) separates Italy from the rest of the contin-
ent ; the second (the Apennines) traverses the mainland in the direc-
tion of its greatest length, and extends to the farthest extremity of
Sicily ; whue the third stretches from N. to S. through the Sardo-
Corsican islands. The Aips have been alreadv described under
'* Europe," as {dso under France, Switzerland, and Austria.
The Apennines branch off from the Maritime Alps near Genoa, extend
in a S.E. direction through the entire length of the peninsula, and form
the water-parting between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Adriatic. They
are of greatly less elevation than tne Alps, and nowhere attain the height
of the snow-line, except in Sicily, though some of the continental sum-
mits are covered with snow for nine months in the year. MowU Como,
in the N. of Naples, the highest summit of the continental Apennines,
9521 feet; Monte Velino, in N.W. of Naples, 8180 feet ; M. Vettmut,
ITALY. 289
,r Naples, 30i3 feet ; il. Etna in Sicily, tlie
entire range, 10,874 feet : line of perennial anow.
The Sanlo-Coriican range eiftands from ._...._.._
Corsica, to Oape Spartiveuto in t1ie S. of Sanlinin, and forma the nater-
parting between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Meditenanean proper:
highest Biunmita, Monle RotoTido, in Coisica, 9063 feet, and Monte Oen^
aiyBi/B, in Sardinia, 7000 feet.
and leading from Coni to Nice. Paji ijf Mont GenivTe, in the Cottian
Alpa, 6560 feet, from Susa to Bilanfon. Pati of Mont Cenii, from Suaa
to 8. Jean de Maurienne, in SaToy, 677fi feet Paa qf Great St Bernard,
8150 feet, between Piedmont and the Valaia, Slmplan Pan, 6582 feet,
tnaa Milan and Domodosaola to Canton Valaia. For the remaining
paeaes acrosa the Alps, see under " Switzerland " and " Austria."
BJTer-Bnsliu.^ — Owing to the peninsular character of the conntry
and the position of the jnonntain-chajns, there ia only one extensive
river-baHm in all Italy— viz. , that of the Po, which ia limited by the
Alps on the one side and the Northern Apenninas on the other, and
embraces (if we include the rivers which flow into its delta) mt area
of 31,600 s(). Tn.
Table or Rivers and ToimB. — In the following table will be
found all the principal rivers and affluents of rivers of the Italian
KDinaula, beeintiiOK at the G. of Genoa and ending at th« G. of
ieste, together with all the towna containing 6000 inhabitants and
^BpwnrdH situated on their banks : —
Saaint inelined to the IVr^eniaa Sea.
,..8an Hbiuo, Pprto Mat
ilm^ru
», Chiavj
Frlgido Masat--1[-C»rtiu».
fiantalD, -. -. ,-LncQL
Aaiy, Fiiia, Bmpoll. Fldrehck
SiffnOt Jti/nteoarchi
Pagpi, Pimii.
JSta™li,"!!!Pe»chiii.
BIsi. 1 CcBe.
Ombiqne,...FiBtoJi.
BlMlulo,. . . . Fmlo.
Chlana, 1. . . , ArezEO. Moatepulclano
Co-omiscKDy, Leghorn.
OmbiODa Sen- OrDtMto.
AtUta..'.... -Siena.
Suta, .ComtU, Solatnjl.
Akodb, l...VlteTba.
f CD^RiDUllia] a>lta Vecchla.
PigllB, Onieto.
lopia, I ....Folitpio.
CblB9«i,..OuAM0, n.
UlTOgiii, ISpoleto.
rtnis. T8lletri.J»ani),iL
maaeHB, .... Trrradna.
.oC<iiitAa,...Pondi, n.,<iiietii.
Osrigllano Ponte Cwro, Atplno, b.,
Ss«o, Atioffni, B., Paltitrina.
Cosaa, I . .Fraiinimt, Aiatri, o.
BavoDB, Teino.
Vollomo Capos, 7«mfa, B.
Sablwto/lAvBlllno. '
Legnl Caserta, n.. Haddslnnl,
Noli"
G. of Nniilen.-.PoiiuoU, Afragola. n„
Fratta Magglore, QiB-
gllano, HiPLES, Pur.
tlid, Tom dBl AuBUd-
290
POLITICAL OEOGRAPHY.
Barifu inclin&d to th$ Tyrrhenian Sea (oontinuedX
Rivera. Totnu,
Sarno Koeera, Sarno, n.
G. of Salerno, ,Amaifi, Salerno ; Ruins
of PcBStum.
Sele, BucdnOt Sola,
Riverg. Towm,
O. of Policas- Polieagtro.
tro.
West Go. Ca- Nica8tro,n.,iH2Zo,Pao2a»
labria, Palmi.
St. of Messina, SeyUOt Beggio.
Basine inclined to the Ionian Sea.
East Go. Ca- Gatanzaro, CotronOf Ros-
labria, sano.
Crati Cosenxa.
Sibari, l....Ca88ano, Ccutro-Villari.
G. of Taiajito,Tarajx.to,NardOtOaaipoli.
Agri, Marsioo.
Basente «... .Potema.
Bradano,. ...Matera, n., Opvido.
Gravina, ..Altanmra, n., Gra?ina>
Basins inclined to the Adriatic.
East Co. Ot-Lecce,n.,J3n9u2is<, Fran-
ranto, cavilla, Ostuni
Co. of Bari,...Mola, Gioja, n.* Bari,
Bitonto, Molfetta, Tra-
ni, Gorato, n., Andria,
n., Terlizzi, Barletta.
G. of Manf^- Mar^fredonia, Viesti.
donia,
Ofanto, .... Cerignola, n. » Minervino,
n., Melfl.
Oervaro, .... Bovino, Troja, n.
Cesone Foggia.
Balsola, I .Lucera.
Radicosa, ..SanSevero.
BifernOy Gamx>o-Basso.
Sangro, Atessa.
Co.Abrazzo,..Va8to, Lanciano, n., Or-
tona.
Pescara, Chieti, Solmona, Aqnila.
Piomba, S. Angela.
Trontino, Teramo.
Tronto, AscolL
Fermo Fermo.
Chienti, Tolentino, Camerino.
Potenza, Becanati, Maceiata.
Mnsone, Loreto, Osima
E. Co. Marches, Ancona.
Esino, Jesi, Fabriano.
Misa, Siniga^ia.
Metauro, Fano, urbino, n.
Foglia, Pesaro.
Ansa, Rimini, San Marino.
Savio, Cervia, n.
Montone, Ravenna, ForlL
Lamone Faenza.
Sfuitemo, Comacchio, Imola.
Reno, Bologna.
Po, Adria, Ferrara, Revere,
Guastalla, Viadana, Sa-
bionetta, n.,Casal-Mag-
giore, Cremona, Codog-
no, Piacenza, Pavia,
Fa^enza.Casale, Trino,
Creseentino, Chivasso,
TuBiK, Moneaglieri,
CarignanOf Carmagno-
Po— continued la, ViOafranca^Caieor-
re,n. ,Salazs>,n. ,Bar9».
Panaro, .... Finale.
Secchia, ...Gonzago^HoDENA.
Mincio, I Mantaa,Ki{2fl(/^rai>ca^ £••
(L. Garda), naJto, ScUo.
Oglio, I (L. Pontevicot Soretina, Chi'
Iseo), ari.
Hella, I ..Brescia.
Crostolo, ..GuastaUOf Reggio.
Parma, .... Parma.
Taro, Borgo-San-Oonlno, n.
Adda, I (L. LodiI,Tr0i^Ito, n., Lecea,
Como), Como, Sondrio.
Serio, I ..Cremat Caravaggio.
Brembo, I Bergamo, n.
Lambro, I . . Bhoirgetta, Monza.
Olona, I . . . .Milan, Busto-AndsIOyB.,
Varese.
Ticino, I (L. Pavia, Binaaeo, n., Vig»-
Maggiore), vano. Abbiate-Orasso,
n., Treeate, Intra, Lo-
carno, Beixinzona.
Toccia, ..Domodossola.
Tresa, 1{Il Lugano.
Lugano),
Terdoppio, I Kovara, Oleggio,
Staffora, .... Voghera.
Gogna, ^....Jfortoro, n., Borgo-MO"
nero.
Scrivlo, .. ..Tortona, NovL
Tanaro, ....Marengo, Alessandria,
San-Salvatore, Aati.
Atha^ Bra, Cherasoo^
Bene, b., Oaressia.
Bormida, Acqui.
Orbe, ,.Ca8telkuuo, Qavi, Ova-
da.
Belbo^ . . . ,Ni3HM-Monferra^.
Stnra, I ..Fossano, Coni.
Pesio, I ..Mondovi, il, Chiusa.
Sesia, I .. ..Vercelli.
Cervo, .....Bie22d.
Dora-Baltea,Ca2u«o, Ivrea^ Aotta,
V
Orca, I .... CMvasso, Looama,
I
Tbbih, Bicoli.
BncdilglloDe, Chinggli, Pndiia.Yii
..CiTariwo, HoYlgo, ten-
dinara, LegDago, Ver
oub, Baveredo, Trieni
thetaBin of tliB _ .
Coma, MaggiorB, Ic, are unrivalled for their enchantrng aoenery.*
They are numerous also in Central Italj, lutween the brnnchea of
the Apennines, where they sometimes oncupy the oratera of oitinct
volcanoes, and have no visible outlet. The following are the priuci-
pal lakes in tlia ordiir of the river-hasina in wliich they occur : —
B«Bin of the Po—Gar^ (560 811. m.; elevation, 227 feel above tho aea),
di«inod hy UiB Mincio ; 7s(o, by the Oglio; Cotao, by the Add?.; Maagiore,
by the Tiiino ; Lagano, Ijy the Treea, Ombrona — CasUglione and Orbi-
ttlla, in tlie Marerama of Tuscany. Arena — Bmcciano, In |)tovintB
Latlum. Msrta — Bolsena, in province Latium. Tiber — Ferugia, with
no visible discham. Garlgliano— Cefaiio or fWBO, in Abruizo, drained
by an artiScisl channel Avenw, 10 milea W. of Naples, occopiea the
crater of a volcano.
OllinaM.— From its positian, foim, and configaration, Italy anjoya
m eitremely delightful climate, which permits the productions of
the temperate, and some of the torrid zone, to minde on its almost
nniformly fertile aarfacfl. In the northern parts 3ie cold ia some-
times severe ; but it is little felt in the centre and aouth, where the
plaina enjoy an almost perpetnal spring. The valley of the Po con-
wderably reseinhles in temperature the central pnrta of France : the
lakes tteezB in winter, and the orange and lemon will not ripen in
the open air. At Rome froat seldom lasts aver tha night, and snow
hlls, on aa avers^^ on only two days In tha year, as also at Florence,
Naples, and Palermo. At Veuice snow falls on live days anaually,
at Milan on ten, while in Malta aoow-Sakea are nevEr seen. In the
north the rainfall iagreat, bainffat Tnlmezzo, nearUdine, 100 inches;
at Bome, 35 inchoa ; while at Palermo, in Sicily, it ia only 23 inehea,
The aver^fB for the entire peninsula is about ^5 inches. The mean
annual Mmperature of Rome is SS'.S; mean winter, 4fi°.2 ; and mean
■ammer, If-i. The mean annual temperature of Milan is fiS* ;
Naples, 61'
Tha higher Alps
• ThB laSM or N. Italy i
la ia Uie Urgeat; anrl la
to the level of 9600
at betuttfat, and Coint
292 POUTICAL GEOGRAPHY.
feet. Nearly one-half T>f Mont Blanc is always protected by a snonry
envelope, wnich thickens every winter by fresh accumulations, and ecu-
tracts again in summer and autumn by ihe action of the sim's rays, and
by the constant discharge, from its lower margin, of those famous glaciers
which are the admiration of all travellers. — (See under " Switzemi^")
The climate is, generally speaking, highly salubrious, save in the pesti-
lential marshes of Tuscany, called the Maremma, and the Campagna di
Romaf in the Pontifical States, the malaria from which is extremely ii^-
ious to human life. The prevailing winds are W. and S.W., and during
their continuance the air is pure and healthy ; but the soumem portion
of the country is frequently visited by the pestilential winds of AMca,
during which vegetation is arrested, and the human frame becomes languid
and feeble.
Geology and Minerals. — ^Tertiary and post-tertiary strata cover
greatly more than a half of Italy, especially the extensive basin of
the Po ; the northern portion of the peninsula from Genoa to
Civita Vecchia, on the W. side ; and the entire belt lying between
the Apennines and the Adriatic, on the E. ; together wiw a large
part of Sicily and Malta. Secondary strata occupy considerable
areas in central and southern Italy, especially from the Tiber to the
G. of St Eufemia ; a large tract in the centre of Sicily ; and the
southern slope of the Rhsetian and Carnic Alps. The central and
higher ridges of the Alps consist of gneiss and other primary rocks,
flanked by limestone, sandstone, and slate ; and primary strata pre-
vail on both sides of the Strait of Messina, and in the east side of
Corsica and Sardinia. Granite rarely occurs except in the islands
just named, where it covers large areas. Trap-rocks are found in
numerous small patches around the G. of Genoa and N. of the Po ;
and volcanic formations are extensive, especially around Rome,
Naples, Malfi, the E. side of Sicily, and the N.W. comer of the
island Sardinia, more particularly in the neighbourhood of Syracnse
and Mount Etna, as also in the Lipari Isles, where StromboU, Ynl-
cano, and Vulcanello are still active volcanoes.
Minerals. — ^The mineral products of Italy, though numerous, are not
turned to much account, mining being everywhere neglected. Th^re are
few metals, except iron and lead, the first of which is very abundant in
Elba, while copper, manganese, cobalt, and quicksilver are found in the
Apennines : coal is plentiful in Venetia, Sardinia, and Tuscany ; salt,
alum, and borax in many localities ; alabaster in Tuscany ; and beautifiil
statuary marble at Carrara and other places. But the volcanic products
of Italy, especially sulphur, nitre, and lava, are of greater value than all
its other mmerals, nearly all the sulphur required in Europe bdng ob-
tained from Sicily. The principal mmerals of the Alps are iron, copper,
lead ; but quicksilver, rock-salt, and some gold and silver, are met with.
Botany and Agriculture. — The indigenous vegetation of Ital^,
including the Alpine region in the N., is mainly embraced withm
Schouw's first and third phyto-geographic regions. The first, or
Arctic- A Ipine Region^ comprehends liie summits of the lofty moun-
tain-ranges, while the low grounds belong to the third or Meditem*
nean Region. Italy, as a whole, presents an admirable epitome of
the characteristic floras of all the countries of Europe, Western Afiii^
and Nortliern Africn. According to Cesati, the nnmlier of flower-
in^-planta in Lombardy alone nmoants to 2S6S species, of whicli 514
are monocotyledons, and 2064 dicotyledons.
In Sicily, Xaples, and Malta, in addition to tliB planta common to bU
tlie peniusuln, not a few tropicnl species appear, sucti hb the cotton-plant^
Hugar-cane, papyrus, piataehio, nod date-palin. The Indian fig also, s
Epocies of cactus, grows wild in Siyily. All these ripen at an elevation of
about 600 feet ; BTergreens flourish at 2O00 feet ; tTie oak and chestnut
grow on the mountam-Bidos as high as 4000 fiset ; wheat thrives at 4500
feet ; and the heecli at 6000 feet. In Central Italy we And the flanks of
the Apennines covered with a rich and varied vegetation up to S2D0 feet ;
the lower aine is occupied by the orange, citron, oJive, and palm ; -fnrests
are rare ; and the mountaina, above the level indicated, present bare rocks
devoid of vegetation. The Alps afford excellent pastnre, and the forest*
contain a great variety of timber. The vertical limits of vef^tation along
theii sides are as follows : — The dwarf-palm and orange arrive at matti'
rity at the foot of the Maritime Alps ; wheat is cnltlvated at the height
of SaOO feet ; oata, 4300 fept ; barley, 6100 feet ; the chestnut grows In
the valleys at 3600 ; oalt, 4SO0 ; pine and larch, 8500 feet, Hnmaii in-
habitants are found as high aa 6300 feet, where potatoes and turnips are
the only esculents. Tlie Knno lying between the npper limit of trees anil
the lowerlimitof perennial snow, is the province of the A (pine fiora share
allnded to, characterised by the juniper, alder, rhododenilron, willow,
cranberry, aaxifroRes, moaaea, and lichena, eitonding to BSOO feet
Agriralinn. — Were the Itahana as active, industrious, and skilful as
their soil is good and their climate propitiona, few countries in the world
conld rival Italy in agricultural wealth and prosperity. So far, however,
is this from hehig the case, that there is scarcely a country oa the con-
easeful husbandry. In Loml>ardy, Venetia, and Piedmont, however,
^riculture is better nnderatood ; the soil, which ia a rich alluvium, is
cuitivBted with great care, and artificial irrigation is extensively praiv
tiaed. Here the principal crops are rice, maiie, wheat, rye, oats, barley, '
Tines, olives, flga, oranges, citrona, homp, flax, and the mulberry plaiA, i
About two fifths of the peninsula are under cultivation, the remaiudei I
belDg either bare rocks, devoid of vegetation, or available only for euia-
merpastntnge. Vegetation is never interrupted on the lower gronnda,
especially m the southam half of the poninsnla. Tlie vine fiouriahea uni-
Tersally, bat the wines of Italy cannot compete with those of France and
Spidn. Littie wine is exported- except from Tuacany and Bicily. The
TuscsD wines are of inferior quaUty, hut the Marsala wines of Sicily are
extensively consumed in England and America, owingto their cheaimeBS.
The Neapolitan wine is the best in Italy ; the celebrated LoAryiitii
Chritli, a red wine of great excellence, is grown in vineyards on the flanks
of Veauvins. Olive oil ia the principal article of export from the Neapo-
litan portion of the kingdom, but some good oil is also produced in Tus-
cany. In many districts, however, the mulbeny plant ia now supplant-
ing the olive. In Southern Italy, where the soil is volcanic, well watered,
and highly fertile, the chief oiops are wheat, maize, rice, cotton, indigo,
tOgH, olive oil, tobacco, dates, melons, and other frails.
ZeolORT. — There aeera to be few, if any, wild animals peculiar t»
^ Italian peninsula, unless the crested hedgehog, found in the
Ellth of Naples, be an exception. On the other hanil, however,
294 POLITICAL GEOGRAPEY.
few species are wanting here of those fonnd in the other parts of
Southern Europe.
The Mammalia comprise 68 species, including 42 camivora, 16 rodents,
9 ruminants, and 1 pachyderm— viz., the wild boar of Calabria. The
camivora embrace the bear, badger, marten, dog, wolf, fox, civet, wild-
cat, shrew, desman, and numerous bats; the ruminants, the bufiGeJo,
deer, goat, and sheep ; and the rodents, the hare, squirrel, dormouse,
and arvicola. Of the 294 species of Birds there are numerous species
unknown in the British Isles. Reptiles of every order are very nume-
rous, embracing no fewer than 47 species. Of the 444 Fishes found in the
Mediterranean, the great majority frequent the coasts of this peninsula ;
and some of the fisheries there established, especially those of the tunny,
anchovy, pilchard, and mackerel, are of great value. The Articulated
animals are also very numerous, including the bee and silkworm (both of
which are of great economic importance) ; the tarantula, scorpion, and
white ant, all highly noxious ; the locust, which not unfrequently makes
its appearance in devastating swarms ; and the butterflies, remarkable
for the number and beauty of the species. The molluscs, crustaceans^
echinoderms, sponges, and corals of the Mediterranean are very numerous,
but seldom diner specifically from those of the Lusitanian and West
African regions, from the former of which, especially, its fauna appears
to have been a colony.*
Ethnograpliy. — From the earliest dawn of history, Italy contained
a number of distinct races. Who were its earliest inhabitants, and
from what country they entered the peninsula, are questions still
involved in great obscurity. It is pretty generally allowed, how-
ever, that the aborigines of the south, who are known by the vari-
ous names of Pelasgi, Siculi, (Enotrians, and Itali, were a Sanscritio
race, and allied to the Celts, Teutones, and Sclaves, the earliest
settlers in Western and Northern Europe ; that they entered Italy
from the north, at various times, from 2000 to 1350 B.O.; and that
they were subsequently driven southwards by the Etruscans, Liga-
rians, and other tribes of uncertain origin. In 753 B.O. Rome was
founded, according to some, by the descendants of a colony ttom
Troy, and gradually extended its sway over the entire peninanla,
and at length over the greater part of the whole world as known to
the ancients. In the fifth century of our era the Gtoths invaded
Italy, and overthrew the Roman Empire. The Italian people of
the present day are, therefore, a very mixed race, formed of the
union of the aborigines with Greeks, Gauls, Goths, Germans, and
Arabs.
LangtMge, — The Grecian colonists, ia common with all the other
tribes above enumerated, came in the course of time to lose their ori^pnal
dialects ; and, as early as the reign of Augustus, Latin was tiie spcd^en
language of all Italy. The modem Italian, a soft, euphonious language
is more closely allied to the Latin than any other Greco-Roman toiunie.
Of its numerous dialects, which differ widely ttom each other, the Tni-
can is the most refined and harmonious, being spoken by fhe eduoated
* The LtiBitanian region of marine life embraces the eastern Bids of the AXkuHk
from the N.W. of France to the Canary Isles, and lies between the Oettia and
African regions.— <Ske p. 104.)
aea in nil pirlj af the peninaula, and liaiing been long tbe almost
exelnsiTe cbannel of Italian literature.
Stligion. and Sducatiim— The entire population of Italy, witb tbe el-
ection ot 26,000 Waldensian Pidtestanta in Piedmont, wbo, after sees
of pBraeeuttMi, are Bow allowed freedom o( worship, belongs to the
R. Uatbolio Cburch. Until tbe recent revolutions, wben tbe Pope's
temporal power was bo terribly shaken, no other form of wotsliip was
tolerated in any part of the peninsnla. Now, however, this state of
things is changed conaiderahly for the better; Protestants ara allowed
freedom of worship in all the cities and towns of the Kingdom of Italy,
while even in the former Papal States a limited degree of toieratlon
eiiata, and Protestanta are allowed to meet for worship inside the
walls of Bome^ The education of the people Is sIed better attended to.
Formerly Tery few ot the peasantry conld either read or write, eieept in
Ssitlinia, which for many yeara has formed an honourable exception to
the general rule. But now common schools are beginning to appear in
oU directions ; nawspapera and railways are on the increase, and, above
nil, WiB Word of God in the vemacolar may now happily be seen in miU-
tilndes of villages end hamlets throughout the pen' — '- " — ' —
0 the revolution of 1880, there were live nniversitiee in the kingilon
of Sardinia — viz., those ot Turin, Genoa, Cagliari, Sassari, and Pavia
in Tuscany, three — thoar -' ™— ™ --^ "' ■"- -
State*, four— the Uni'
le of Pisa, Florence, and Siena ; in the Pontifical
J ersltyof Rome, tbe University of Bologna, tho
Collegio Homano. and tbe Collecio de Propaganda Fide ; in Naples, three
—those of Naples, Palermo, and Catania. Altogether, there are now 22
nnlveraities in Italy, many ot tham being of ancient foundation.
KftUonal CIiaTaot«r.— The modern Italians are described m "a
hnndsome, lively, and intelligent people. The men are well formed,
rather alim than stout, bat atrong and agile, with a dark complex'
hajr. The women have narrow Ibreheads, black or iSrk-brown bi
large, brilliant, and expressive eyes, a be^ntifnl nose, which, with
the forehead, forms the eleeant Roman profile ; but tbe lower classes,
In coDsequence of living wholly on vegetabl« food, and of hard labonr
muler a Duming sun, rarely display any peculiar attractions. Tbe
prominent traits of the Itatiaji character are love of ease and pleasnre,
Knd an inborn capacity for appreciating the beantifal in every depart-
ment of ut, which has rendered their country the chief school for
ficulptuia, painting and mnaic."
UMTa1iiix& — From the splendid galaxy of literati which for ages
haa illnmined thia classic connti-y we can only iostance a few of tka
moat conspicuous stam : —
ClabBIcaL Litehaturk; Plantna, Terence, Lnoretiua, Cicero, Ctesar,
Tirgil, Horace, Livy, Ovid, aalltiat, Nepos, Juvenal, Pliny, Taoitns,
QninBliim, Ssored Lttehstdhe : Gregory the Great Thomas Aquinas,
Cajetan, Baronius, Bellannine, Paolo SorpI, Paliavicinl, Martini, Diotati,
Db Bossi, Cardinal Mai. Postbt : Dante, Petrarch, Boocaccio, Pulci,
Bdaido, Ariosto, Bemi, Colonna, Gnarini, Taasq, Metostasio, Alfieri,
Faiisd. UisToni : Platina, Machiavelli, Varchi, Dai^ Unic-
„~ I, Strada, Mafibl, Mnrat«ri, IauzI, Vasarl, Denina,
Faiini, Vico. _PAnrmra : (Smabuo, Leonardo da Vinci,
I, Bentirogili
296 POLITICAL OEOaSAPHY.
Ginlio Romano, Borocci, Sacchi, Claude of Lorrain, Ponssin (Gaspaid),
of the Roman ScJux>l. Titian, Paolo Veronese, Canale, of the Venetian
School. Correg^o, Caracci, Guido, Grimaldi, Colonnii^^ of 'ttie Lombard
and Bolognae School. Sculpturb : Niccola Pisano, Donatello, Cdlini,
Bernini, Algardi, Michael Angelo, Canoya. Music : Palestrina, Fan-
neUi, Paganini, Lully. Science and Philosopht: Cardan, vanini,
Galileo, ToriceUi, Malpighl, Cassini, Moigagni, Galvani, Volta, MellonL
Travels and Discovebt : Christopher Columbus, Amerigo Vespacci,
Marco Polo. Miscellaneous Literature : Poggio, Laurentins valla,
Politian, Pico Mirandola, Bembo, Aldo lilanuzio, J. C. Scaliger, Maiana,
Gravina, Crescimbini, Facdolati, Forcellini, Beccaiia, FHangieri.
Goyemment and Finance. — ^With the exception of Sardinia, which
has enjoyed free institutions since 1848, all the Italian states had for
generations been groaning under despotisms of the most extreme
type. Civil and religious liberty were everywhere unknown ; and
freedom of worship, freedom of speech, freedom of the press, and
liberty of the subject, effectually suppressed. The inextiugtdshahle
love of liberty, however, in the bosoms of the people, stimmated by
the example and influence of Sardinia, broke out at length in a
general revolution, which terminated in hurling the despots from
their thrones. In 1859, Lombardy was wrested from Austria and
ceded to Sardinia; in the following year Parma, Modena^ and
Tuscany, having exi)elled their sovereigns, also attached themselves
to that state ; while still more recently, Garibaldi, a Sardinian
general, raised the standard of revolt in Sicily, crossed Uie Strait
of Messina, overran the Neapolitan territories and the Pontifical
States, and thus laid, all the remainder of Italy, with the exception
of Rome and Venetia, at the feet of Victor EmmanueL Finally,
Venetia was ceded by Austria at the termination of the Continent
tal war of 186C ; while during the Franco-German war of 1870, the
French garrison having evacuated Rome, that city with its t^ritory
was taken |)ossession of by Victor Emmanuel. The legislative
authority rests conjointly in the kins and parliament, the latter
consisting of two chambers,— viz., the Senate, which consistB of
princes of the blood-royal, and of an unlimited number of mem-
bers nominated for life by the king ; and a Lower House, elected
by a majority of all citizens who are 25 years of age, and pay taxes
to the amount of 40 lire (£1, 12s.) The executive is vested in the
king, and is exercised by him through responsible ministera. In
1874, the army numbered 200,000 ; the navy, 91 vessels of war,
carrying 800 guns; receipts, £62,000,000; expenditure, £62,000,000;
public debt, £390,000,000.
Uannfactures and Ck)mmerce. — ManufiEusturine industry is still
at a low ebb in all parts of the peninsula, notwithstanding the great
political changes that have recently taken place. A liberal oonsti-
tutional government, favourable to free-trade and moderate tulflh^
with the many other advantages resulting from the inooiporatian of
the numerous states formerly existing in the country into one kiiig*
ITAI.T. S97
Ann, CBlmot faD to insn^mtfi a new ers in tlie cammercisl tiii
mannfactmiiig bistoi? of tiie coMitry.
GenecaDy Bpeaking, ItoliBD 'workmsn are inferior to tLuee uT otlier
EniDpean conutriea. Tbeir leading diBraeteriBSc is that their efforts nre
□mre dincted to the prodnctiffii cl BTticIeB of Iniory than to thoM <if
utility. Among teirtllt fabrics, Eilke and velvets are the most impiatsiit,
espedaHy in northern end oeiitniJ Italy. By for the greater part of t^
law and ttrovu Eillc imported into Engijmd from France is not produced
in that country, bnt in Italy. The ammal valne at the ailli cnm is bbU-
nuted to eicsed £10,000,0(10. BesidtiB these, woullen teitutes for home
cocEoinptios are manufactured in Sardinia; paper and stmir-pbit in
!ri]aGany ; leather, gloves, mnaical instmmecte, ^aas wares, cordage,
iriiie, and soap, iu central Itujy, where also snlpkor ani salt are prei^red
for erportation; irhile in I^aples the principat orliEles, heskdes silks,
an woollezis, linens, hosiery, Btraw-hats, saasa^ies. iniicaroni, esantccK,
perfumery, ^asE, bobp, inoEical striugs, filigreB-nort, md coral omamenti.-
9)he manDfadmiee of Vimetia are my varioDH. The famoas glsssworkt
al Venioe jirodnce mftgnificent mirrors, with every variety of artifidal
pearU uid gema, beada, enamel, and rnDsaic "wortB, See. ; whdlfi jewetUer^,
gtdd and silver staffs, velteU, silks, laces, soaps, aiid wai-lj^ts, an
•iteuaiyely manufactured. The commeree is oonaideiable, is rapidly
iocrearaD^ and is chiefly carried on 'with Great Britain, the sc>iith OS
Enrepe, and the Levant. Fully two-thirdB of the foreigu trade of Venice
IE csmed on under tJie Britifih flog. The chie£ articles of exportatitm an
aUka, olive oil, irincs, siilj>liar, boiax, fruits, oak and ddt^ iurli, ascbo
_. ., macaroui, essenees. eoap, aud the other articioa above ennmeialed :
■vjiile the mincipal imports are cotton Etnffs, iron, flteel, hardwaie, and
fnou Great Britain ; wool from the Levant ; com from Odessa ; and
1 &imi Fmnce and Siiain. In 1S73, Britain amt to Italy goods tt>
value of £7,S0O,OO0, and reoeivad in return goods to tbe value oS
.--,018,582. The imports from France into IlJj average £8,000,000
■tariing, and tSe eiporta from Italy into France are about equal in value.
Next in order to France and Btitain, hnt far lieiow, come Ausfria and
Bwitierland. The commeralia marine of tbe Kinffdom of Italy, in 1S70,
oompiiied 17,500 soiling vessels, carrying 926,000 tona. imd 103 steamen,
canTing £5,000 tona— in all, 17,600 vcskU, cairying 9G0,000 tons,
Ijitenal nimiimi¥i4n»iWmi — Owing to the want of energy on tbe
part of the people, their abject poverty, and the innnmerable dia-
conrngementb to which they have been aubjeoted by their rnlera, the
gr«at iboroughfarefi of commerce are still in a backirard condition.
Till very reoentlj; ^ailuayi were almost unknown in tie peninsola, the
total number of nules open for traffic, in 1858, being only 700 — vii., for
Sardinia 390 milee, for Fnnua and Modena 06 miles, for Tuscany 150
ndlea, nnd for Naples M miles. Ot late years, however, the railway ejs-
tem has made rapid i>rogre«s Uirangbont all parts of the peninsnla. In
" ere were 3667 mSes open for traffic tn the Eiogdcrm of Ita1;r,
1871 they amonnted to 4287 miles. The most important tine is
it Ceni* railway, which forms the abortest route from Paria to
idria, and wfaicb at present carries pur East Indian mails. Begin-
' H. Cenis. it follows the course of ths Po to Fioceusa, thence to
tliB AdriattE, the coMt of whidi it travaTses to ErfndisI aetit
extremity. Lombardy abonnds with Canata, but they are
id tor th« purpoiea d( irrlgotiou, the ^rlnoipal exceptions beiug
^■ttuna
298 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
the canal from Milan to the Ticino, prolwhly the oldest canal in Europe^
and that fh)m Milan to Pavia. Venetia aboanda with canals, 11111011 in
general are ver^ short. In Tuscany there is a canal from Pisa to Le^ioni|
another from losa to the Serchio, uniting the Amo with the Serdiio ; ana
a third, named the Chiana canal, 87 miles in lengtk nniting the sooroes
of the Amo and 'Hber. In Venetia and Piedmont the roads are well con-
structed and kept in good rej^^ ; but in central and southern Italy they
are in a most wretch^ condition. There are no good roads leading across
the Apennines, notwithstanding their moderate eleyation, and they are hi
general not available for wheeled carriages. For the various mountain-
passes leading from Italy across the Alpn, see p. 289.
GREECE.
Position and Boundaries. — The Kingdom of Greece is
bounded on the N. by European Turkey ; W., by the Ionian
Sea ; S., by the Mediterranean ; and K, by the mgean Sea or
Archipelago, which separates it from Asia Minor. The conti-
nental portion lies bet lat 36° 23' and 39* SC N. ; and bet
Ion. 20' 45' and 24° T E.
Athens, the capital, near the centre of this area, is on the same parallel
of latitude as the Azores, Cordova, Moimt Etna, Smyrna, TabriiL Astra-
bad, Yarkand, Tsi-nan, San Francisco, and Washin^n j and on tne same
meridian as Hammerfest, Mittau, Lember^ Widdm, I)ema (in Tripoli),
and Cape Delgado. The form is extremely irregular, being broken up by
straits and deep inlets of the sea into a series of peninsulas and ishmds,
which stand to Europe in the same relation as Europe does to Asia. Ex-
treme length of the continental part, 200 miles ; breadth, on the paral-
lel of Athens, 170 miles. Surrounded by the sea on tnree sides, and
stretching out between the three continents of the Old World, Greece was
the most favourably situated of all ancient countries, not even ezoeptiDg
Palestine. In proportion to its area, the coast-line greatly exceeds tliat
of any other country, being estimated at one mile of seaboard to every
seven miles of surface. The surface, however, is highly mountainous,
while the centre of the Morea forms an elevated plateau.
Area and Popnlation.^The area of Greece, including the Ionian
Islands, ceded to it by Great Britain in 1864^ amounts to 20,152 sq.
UL, or two-thirds the size of Scotland. The population, in 1871,
was 1,457,894, or somewhat more than two-fifths the population of
the latter country. This area ^ves nearly 72 persona to each aq.
m. Ancient Greece, including Epirus and Thessaly, is supposed to
have contained at one time 3,500,000 inhabitants.
Polltioal Divisions.— Previous to 1830, and whilst Greece was
under the yoke of Turkey, the country was divided into three pro-
vinces—viz., Livadia in the N., Tripolitza in the S., and t|ie Anhl"
pelago in the ^gean Sea. In 1838 it was divided into twentr-foar
governments, twelve of which were in the Mores* eight in mUii%
while the rfmaining Tonr conijitiseil the Cycladea and Sporailca. Bnt
in 1845 the whole country waa divided into the rolloning IS memos,
the last four of whieh are insular: —
Helus oa NoRTHKHH Grbecb.
AcftTDuiia and Stolitk— Missolonghi 6 (G. of Patraa), TcnitiiB 3 (G. of
Arta), Lejianto 3 (G. of Lepanto).
Fhthiotis and Phoois .—Lamia 6 n. (G. of Lamia), Balonn B, Custri n.
fBny of Saiona), TheTvutpyia (Hellnda).
Attica and Bteotia.— Athens 45, FiraanB 6 (G. of ^gina), Thehes 9
(Asopo), Livadia 9 n. (L. Topoliaa), MaraOum (K. Co. of Attica).
Enboa or UegTopont,— Negropont 6 (Chan, of Talania), Karysto 3
(a.Bn. ofE),Tii»).
The Mqhea.
Argolis and Corinth.— NanplialO.ArgoB 9, Spezda 10, Hydra 10 (G.
of Argolis), Corioth 2 n., Voatitza 3 (G. of Lepantoj.
AchaUand EUs.-Patraa 20(G. of Patras), Ofjmpio (Eufia).
" — Calamata 6 (Nerioo), CypariBsia 3, Navarino 2 (W. Co,)
Arcadia.- TrLpoIit2:a 7 (Roufial.
TuE Islands.
CycUdM.— Syra 21 (I. Sjti), AndroaG (L Androa),Naiia5(LNaiOB).
Ionian IsIm.— Corfo 15 (L Corfu). Argoatoli fi (I. Cephaiooia), Zaiila
20(1. Zante), Atnoxichi 7 (E. Co. Leiicadia),
DoKilptlve Hotel.- The towna of Greece are all very nnall ; of
those enumerated above, not more than twenty exceed fiOOO of
populatiou ; eight eiceed 10,000; while ooly four exceed 20,001),
BBwlonghi, a small fortified town, which greatly diatingnished itself in
the war of independsnea : here Lord Byron died io 1324. Lepanto or
Ifepakta, near which the fleet ncdB[Don John of Anstrla totally defeated
that of the Turks in 1671. Lamia or Zeitonn, neiir tlie famons pass of
Tbennopyls, where Leonidas, vilh his 300 Spartans, fell in opposing the
Pereian invadara nndar Xerses, B.C. 480. Saiona, at the soothem base
of Mount PamassuB ; on its acropolia are pictaresi^iie niins of its ancient
citadel Cutri, near the famona Castaliaa Sprlna : liere stood the cele-
brated temple of Apollo, the principal seat of his worship r here were
celebrated the Pythian games ; and it was one of the two places of meet-
ing of the Ampbictyonic Cooncll. Athena, capital of the khigdoui of
Greece, is one of the niost celebrated citiea in the world, and the most
Kjanowned for its literature, science, and fine arts. It is eitremely ancient,
^^~ - ' g been fouuded, at least in part, by Cecrops, a hero of tlie Pelaagie
„. , B.C. 1S66. It was bonit by Xn^es n.c 4SU, but was soon rebuilc
W Themistocles, and sot many yenn later it was adorned by Pericles
Ttb the moat splendid aMhitectnral worka the world has ever seen. The
ttendoat of Athens, howerer, chiefly conalstedin its public buildings, for
He private houuis, even those of itn greatert men, ware iuaignihcant, nnd
300 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
the streets narrow and irregular. The city suffered severely during the
siece of Sulla, B.C. 86. Hadrian embellished it with many splendid pub-
lic buildings, A.D. 123. Alaric, king of the Goths, in a.d. 396, reduced
it almost to a heap of ruins. Since then it has belonged successively to
(roths, Byzantines, Burgundians, Franks, Catalans, Florentines, Vene-
tians, Turks, and Greeks. During the greater part of the middle ages it
was an almost deserted place ; but in 1833 it became the seat of the
Greek Government. Athens was the birthplace of many illustrious per-
sons, among whom may be mentioned Socrates, Plato, Phidias, Pericles,
and Alcibiades, Pirseus, the port of Athens on the Gulf of wSgina, con-
tains the tomb of Themistocles. Thebes or Thiva, one of the most
ancient cities in Greece, founded by Cadmus about B.O. 1551, and at one
t ime a place of great wealtli and importance. Here Cadmus the Phoenician
first introduced the use of letters into Europe. It was the birthplace of
Hesiod, Pindar, Pelopidas, and Epaniinondas. It was the scene of the
tragic fate of QEdipus, and of the war of "the seven against Thfebes."
Livadla. the capital of Hellas under the Turks. Marathon, a hamlet
situated in a plain watered by the Charadrus. In this plain was fought
the celebrated battle between the Persians under Datis, and the Athenians
under Miltiades, B.C. 490. Negropont (Egripos) a maritime town, and capi-
tal of the island Eubrea. It is a very ancient town, and planted numerous
colonies, among which were Cumse in Italy, and Naxos in Sicily. It was
also a place of great military importance, as it commanded the navigation
between the north and south of Greece. Here Aristotle died, B.c. 322.
Nauplia, on the Gulf of Argolis, is a strongly-fortified town, and one of
the most important in modem Greece. ArgOB,long the capital of Aigoli&
is considered the most ancient city of Greece. Corinth, once a great and
opulent city, and the emporium of the trade between Europe and A^ia,
is now reduced to but a mere vill^e, exporting currants, wheat, oil,
honey, and wax. Its citadel, on a hill 1500 feet nigh, would, if properly
fortified, be one of the strongest fortresses in the world. Its navy was
numerous and powerful : here jtjie first triremes were built ; and the first
sea-fight on record was between the Corinthians and their colonists the
Corcyramns. Spezzia, beautifully situated on an island of same name in
the G. of Argolis, is remarkable for the salubrity of its climate. Hydra»
an important commercial town, situated on a barren rock in an island tk
same name. Fatras, a fortified seaport, and the principal seat of the
foreign trade of Greece. Olympia, the name of a small plain, where the
famous Olympic Games were celebrated from the eariiest times ; bat the
Olympiads were not employed as a chronological era till the viotorv of
Coroebus in the foot-race, b.o. 776. Calamata, near the head of the Qnlf
of Koron, maintains a brisk trade in oil, silk, and figs, and is the seat of
the bishopric of Messenia. It was burnt by Ibrahim Pasha in 1826, bat
has been rebuilt. Navarino, a fortified seaport town, is ohieflr cele-
brated in modem times for the victorv of the wigflBlyFgench, and B^
sian fleets over those of the Turks and Egyptians in Ini?. Sparte. aflv
long lying desolate, is now being rebuilt^ and has become t^ ea^td of
Laconia. In ancient times it was the chief city in the Pelopanneiiu^ and
one of the most fatuous in Grecian historv. Tnpolitni the capital of tin
Morea under the Turks, was stormed and taken liy tlifl Greek inaiuynta
in 1821, and again by the troops of Ibrahim Pasha in the same TMr, win
razed it to the ground : but it nas been sinoe rebuilt. Bm or jgwaaa.
lis, the principiil commercial dty in Greece, and tlifl nBU^»M » '
of most European States. Thb Ioniav Isua.— OorftL f *
republic of the Ionian Isles, haa been Btnn|^ fbrtmi
»
OREECB. 301
ir B, imiieniity. Zante, a tliriving town, aud
densely peopled of all tlia loniau lelejiilti,
■Puntft and Scvopha, W, of Hellas ; Klarenai, "W. of the
Mores ; Gallo, Matapao, and Malea, 8. of the Morea ; Skillo, K of
the Morea ; Colonna and Daro, S. E. of Hellas.
Pujita, the ancient jlcfiutn, off which Augustus gained the great naral
ctoir over Anthony and CleopatrB. Colonna (ancient Sunium}, ea
uned from the epiendid temple of Athena which cravnedita biavr, ths
itiiani of which still eiist.
lElamla. — The inlands are very numerona, and consist of (our lead-
ing groups. I. The Ionian Ixlea, W. of Greece, the pi-iodpal being
Oorft, Santa Maura, Cephalonia, Zante, aud Cerigo. 2. Hegropont
or Eubcea, E. of Eelias, and the largoat island in Greece. 3. The
Cvclades, between the Morea and Aaia Minor, piincipal—AndrOS,
Tinos, Naxos, Pares, Sjra, Zoa, Thormia, Serfo, Sipbanto, and Milo.
*. The Sporadra, or "scattered islands," partly in liia Gulf of Egiiift,
and partly N.K. of Negropont.
Onlft and atralta.— Gnlf of Arta, N.W. of Hellas ; Patraa and
Lopanto, between Hellas and the Morea ; Koran, Laconia, and Ar-
gofis, S. of the Morea ; Egina, between AvRolis and Attica : Chan-
nels of Egripo, Talanta, and Trikeri, between £ab<:ea and the main-
Sni&oe and Uountalna — The surface is almost whollj monn-
tainuus, but the hills are interspersed with fine viilleya and a few
of litntled extent. The centre of the Morea forma an elevated
1 enclosed by three mountain - chaitia, one of which mus
d to the deeply-penetratJngGulf of L*panto, which ia supposed
have been formed, at a remote age, by an earthquake.
The mountams of Hellas are a continnation of Mount Pinilna, which
Beparatas Theasaly from Albania. On arriving at tie Grecian frontier it
separates into two branches, one of which (Mount Othrys) forms the
bonndaiy between Theasaly and Greece, and Heparates the baalna of the
Salembria and Hellada ; highest snnunlt, 5S7» feet. The other liranrh
pursues a S.E. direction to Cfipe Colouua in Attica, and is thence prolonged
through the weatem chain of the Cjcladeato Bontorini. It consists of
two minor ranges — viz., the Oeta range in the N., about 7000 feet high,
bnt containing Mount Ouioua, the culniinatjng-pohit of Grocce (87S3 it-),
■epomied from the Othrys range by the basin of the Hellada; and the
Pamaaaus range hi the 8., eeparated from the Oeta range by the liasin of
the Gavrioa, and fi-om the Morea by the Gulf of LepantA : lughest snm-
Sn:
J tainu
■ lioha
0 ft.
there ramifies in
lettns, 3370 ft A branch from Mount
,hmua of Corinth into the Morea, and
tliree small chains, which support between them ths
_ _ _ _ ipport be
tatdi-luid of Arcadia: h%he3t snmmitA, Mount I'awetus or St Elias,
7908 n. : Cylene or Zliio, 7788 ft : Malevo, 6355 ft. None of the monn-
b^ns of Greece folly teach the une of perpBtuol congelatian, though
tat them doaely approadi iL
■< and lAkfls. — Owing to the peoinsnlar character of the
oad th« niuoeroDi deep indeotatioDS of the surrounding
302 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
seas, none of the rivers of Greece attains to any considerable mag-
nitude, the principal streams being the Aspropotamo (anc Achddw)t
the Fidaris (anc Evenus), the-Ronfia (anc Alph^), the Baaili-
Potamo (anc Eurotaa), and the Hellada (anc. SpercJuus). The only
lake of importance is Lake Topolias (anc. Copcus), in the east of
Hellas, and even it is little more than a reedy marsh.
Climate. — The climate is in general warm and delightful, and
only inferior to that of Italy.
The summer is extremely warm, the temperature often rising to 100"
Fahr. ; but it is greatly moditied by sea-breezes. At this season rain
seldom falls ; the smaller rivers are dried up ; the air is remarkably clear,
not a cloud being seen for several weeks. In autunm rain liecomes
frequent and copious, and the streams fill their channels. Winter does
not exceed two montns' duration, and is marked by rain in the plalna
and snow in the mountains, the latter retaining their covering till sum-
mer is far advanced, though none of them attams the limit of perennial
congelation. Snow appears in October, and continues to fall tiU Aprfl.
In ^larch the olive buds and the almond is in blossom, while gram is
ready for the sickle in May. The mean temperature of tiie whole coun-
try ranges from 64° in the S. to 59° in the N. Mean temperature oi
Athens 60", winter 41°, summer 77".
Geology and Minerals. — Crystalline rocks cover the south-eastern
part of the Morea, as also Attica, Euboea, the Cyclades, and Sporadea
Tertiary strata line the western side, from the Gulf of Arta to Na-
varino in the Morea. The entire remainder is occnpied with second-
ary rocks, which are chiefly of limestone, and hence the numerous
caverns, subterranean rivers, and fissures emitting mephitic vaponis,
which ministered so largely to the mythology and poetry of the
ancient Greeks : the limestone often assumes the form of the finest
marble, which is extensively used for building and statuary. Vol-
canic rocks, though not found in the mainland, form consideTable
masses in some of the islands, one of which (Santorini) is indeed only
a recently -extinct volcano. The Mineral treasures of Greece are
considerable, though very sparingly worked. Marble is abundant,
together with salt, sulphur, saltpetre, lignite, asbestos, mill-atonei^
whetstones, serpentine, fuller's earth, porcelain earth, aigentiibroDi
lead, and traces of gold. The mainland is dnffnlarly devoid of
metals, but iron is found in Euboea and some other isUiids ; and ooal
occurs in Euboea, Corfu, and the Morea. Wells of petrolenm, which
were known to Herodotus, still exist in Zante.
Botany and Agriculture.— The botany of Greece conaidenUy »-
sembles that of Southern Turkey and Albania. "Dt Sibthoz^ in Im
* Flora Grseca,' enumerates 850 species, which he oolleoted pmusnal^
iu Attica and Beotia. Most of our finer garden-flowen grairinldte
Greece, as the Hyacinth, Ranunculus, TnbB-roae, NaroiBBni^ Iilib nd
Anemone. The natural vegetation of the oouitiy, from flM
level to the height of 1500 feet, exhibits as great a Tiriflbrof Ti
trees, shrubs, and plants as can be found in an wat^ •^•*— »* **
try anywhere throughout the world. Among v
and useftil may be reckoned the olive, vine^ on
QBEECX. SOS
KHg, almonil, tliB dBta-palm (in Attica), the curraiit grspe of Coriiitli,
Wfiich is & ipecieB of vine yielding tlie cummta of commerce, the
citron, pamegrannte, and bonanEi. The wcLter-melons and gonrds nro
excellent At elevations less than 1600 feet, the myrtle, mostich,
and plane-tree flourish ; while the mouutniuB ore covered with foresta
of pice,
ApriimUure. — Ouly abont B tenth of the anrface is under cnltivstion,
and tlie amUe land is of vtry limiud extent. A great part of the soil is
of ■ thin and by no means fertile Datnre. Agricultural implementa and
operations are of the moat prlmitiva description, and the grain raised is
only abont two-t hbds of that required for home conanniption. The plough
in nse differs in no respect from that described by Hesiod, nearly StM)
years ago. The principal crops are— wheat, barley, maize, rice, coffee,
tobacco, cotton, mwlder, flax, and des ; but the olive takes precedence of
all othen, both soil and climate being partlcaliirly favourable to its
growth. The soil in most parts of Greece and the Ionian lalands is ad-
nurablT fitted for the culture of the vine, which in ancient times formed
B highly iijiportant article of industry; but owing to the niismle and
TBpBcity of the Turks, for four centuries its cnltlvation was ahnost totally
abandoned. It is now beginning to revive, and will, doubtless, era long
lesome its proper place in the markets of Europe, Tino, one of the
Cycladas, is famous for its Malmsey wine, and Sikind and Santorin pro-
dnoe wines of good quality. The coltiVBtJon of the mulberry has also of
late been greaUy eilended.
Axllogy. — The moat common wild QuadTapedx are the bear, lynx,
wildcat, hoar, stag, toebnct, goat, badger, marten, wolf, foi, weasel,
jackal, hare, and hedgehog, Birdt comprise the vulture, falcon,
owl, cuckoo, roler, kingfisner, teal-dack, stork, partridge, pigaoo.
Snail, snipe, blackbird, goldfinch, nightingale, swallow, marten,
amiueo, and pelican. The domeMic animals are of inferior breeds,
and thJe ass is almost the only beast of burden. Sheep are very
nnmerons, ami form, with goata, the only animals from which dairv
Cidnce IB obtuned. Beea are extensively reared, and honey la
gely exported.
BthnogTapliy.— The people of modem Greece are a mixed nice,
the pure blood of the Pelasgians having, in the course of aii^es, be-
come largely intermixed with Sclavonic, Teutonic, and even Turkisli
elements. In some parts of Northern Greece, as also in the nortbeni
and eastern parts of the Morea, and some of (he islands, Albaniana
EODatitute the majority of the inhabitants.
ZanjTuaac— The ancient Greek formed one of the principal membera of
the Greco-Latin branch of the great Ludo-Euiopeau family. Modem Greek
or Ramaic dilfere as little Cram tke ancient as some of the dialects of the
latlar lUffered from each otha
Romanic lancuacea (Kn;ni-Ii. Il
90). The All. ■
Dlyrian pri.
theSclavoi,.'
304 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
fallibility of ecclesiastical councils; in administering the Eucliarist in
two kinds ; in denying tiie doctrine of puigatory and the adoration of
images, (though that honour is freely conced^ to paintings of the Deity,
of the Virgin Mary, and of other saints); and, finally, in the celibacy of
the clergy, and the use of the Scriptures by the laity. Bomap Catholics
are numerous in the Ionian Isles and the Cyclades, and enjoy, with other
sects, a limited amount of toleration.
Education is in a backward state, but strenuous efforts are made by
the state to improve it. Besides the Universities of Athens and Corfu,
there are gymnasia at Athens, Nauplia, Patras, Syra, and Hydra; to-
gether with normal, polytechnic, and naval schools. Indeed, every imr
portant town has its gymnasium, and every village its common schooL
Literature. — The literature of Greece, the most copions and bril-
liant in the history of our race, belongs almost exclusively to ancient
times, and every scholar is more or less familiar with it. Of the few
names contained in the following list, several were not natives of
Greece : —
Poets : Homer, Hesiod, Tyrtseus, Sappho, Anacreon, Pindar, .^schy-
lus, Sophocles, Euripides, Arist^hanes. Historians : Herodotus,
Thucydides, Xenophon, Polybius, Diodoms Siculus, Diogenes Laertius,
Plutarch. Orators: Empedocles, Goigias, Isocrates, Demosthenes,
^schines, Hermogenes, Longinus. Philosophers: Thales of Miletus,
Auaximander, Anaximenes, Anaxagoras, Pythagoras, Heraclitus, Demo-
critus, Socrates, Plato, Aristotle, Epicurus, Zeno, Plotinus. Matheua-
TiciANS AND Astronomers : Eudoxus, Euclid, Eratosthenes, Archimedes,
Apollonius, Hipparclius, Ptolemy, Diodes, Proclus, Isidorus, Diophan-
tus. Geographers: Posidonius, Strabo. Physicians: .fisculapius^
Hippocrates, Herophilus, Galen. Fine Arts : Ageladas, Myron, Phidias,
Polycletus, Polygnotus, Apelles, Aristides.
Oovemxnent, &c. — Greece, which had for ages groaned under the
yoke of Turkey, revolted against that power in 1821 ; and after a
long and severe struggle, in which it was aided by liie European
powers, secured its independence in 1829. In 1832 Otho, second
son of the King of Bavaria, was appointed king, but abdicated in
1862, after which Prince George of Denmark accepted the crown.
The government, at first nearly absolute, became, after the revolu-
tion of 1843, a constitutional monarchy. The executive is vested in
the king and his responsible ministers, assisted by a council of state.
The Chamber of Deputies, who are chosen by universal suffrage,
consists of 170 members. The army, in 1873, amounted to 12,800
men and officers, including 1500 of a reserved force. The navy
embraced 2 frigates, 2 corvettes, and 8 steamers, carrying 164 guns.
The estimated Revenue for 1870 amounted to £1,218,000 ; the Ex-
penditure to £1,210,000 ; and the Public Debt to £18,800,000.
Commerce and Maimfactures. — The chief resource of the inhabit-
ants of Greece consists in their maritime commerce. The Greeks
are expert mariners ; the great extent of coast-line gives them many
facilities for maritime pursuits ; and they have for a long time been
the principal agents in conducting the commerce of the eastern part
of the Mediterranean. In 1869, the total number of vessels that
TURKEY.
Of these, 638, with a tonnage of 321,997, \ .^_
j^incipat porta are the Pirsns, ^tras, NaupUa, Syra, and Corfu.
The mannfactnres are few, and chiefly domestic, consisting of silll,
cotton, and woollen stu^a ; coarse pottery, leather, beetroDt-sugiir,
and soap, are made in the principal towns ; carpets, sail-cloth, imd
Btraw-hats in some of the islands: the women excel in etabroidery,
and dyeing in bright colours has been perpetuated from ancient times.
ShiphnUding is also carrisd on at Syra, Lepanto, and other ports.
The Exports embrace currants (the average annual value of which
to Britain amonots to £700,000), cotton, olivB-oil, wine, tobacco,
wool, honey, wax, gum, silk, sponge, and valouia (a species of acorn
naed by tanners), ImporU : manufactured goods (chiefly cotton from
. Great Britaiu}, colonial prodnce, flax, timber, rice, drugs, &o.
Tnlnnfl Communication, — The roads are few in camber and of the
most wretched description, except neat the capital ; and sach as exist
are infested with bands of robbers. A railway, however, now con-
nects Athens with the Pirsus (being a distance of 7 miles), opened
in 186B ; while a canal is coutemplated to cut through the Isthmoa
K flf Qorinth.
^B The Turkish or Ottoman Empire comprehends ali the conn-
^BWeHuiwhicfiTurkiBhaupremaeyiB directly or indirectly recog-
E^irised. Its area and population are ill defined — the authority
of the Snlt&n heing little more than nominal in many extensive
provinoea. Its vaet territoriea, though situated in the three
continents which constitute the Old World, are strictly contanii-
oua, comprising a large territory in the extreme S. of Eorope ;
another, six times aa large, in the W. of Asia ; and a third,
of still greater dimenaiona, in the N.E. of Africa. IC is bounded
on the N. hy the Tran^cancaaian provinces of Russia, the Black
Sea, and Eouniania, Servia, and Montenegro; on the W. by
Montenegro, the Adriatic and Mediterranean Seas, Alceria,
and Nigritia ; on the 8. by' the equator, AbyeBinia, and the
Golf ot Aden j and on the E. by Arabia and Persia. Lat, 0°
—14= 8' N.; Ion. 7° 46'— 48° 16' E.
This wido eiponra of territory, equal in dimensions to the most famous
empiiea of antiquity, is intensely interesting to every reflecting miiid. It is
i/ieffrajMtaltg interesting, as ly!n|; midway between the four great Oceana,
this occupying the central area of the Old World. It is KiitoriaCly intar-
eatins, ucomprebending theaceneofman's eulieat history— his high origin,
Ilia haw; Paradise, his early rebellion, and the first promise of hia fatore
restoiBOon to fellowship with his Maker, Here tbe Antediluviane lived
~ It tlieir unturies of violence, and here the ark of Noah fioated Becurelr
aboTB that flood which extemvinated the rebellious race ; here tbe
306 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
arcli alighted to people afresh the desolate earth, and here his descendanta
attempted anew to oppose the decrees of Heaven ; — ^here the most ancimt
empires were founded, the iirst cities bnilt, the earliest arts coltiTated,
the temple of science founded, and the saving truths of revelation first
published I — here wandered those pilgrim fathers who lived " as seeing
Him who is invisible ; " here their onsprin^ were held in bondage, am
the power of the Divine arm, working in their behalfl was revealed ; — ^here
was situated that "good land" which the Most High had kept in reserve
for His peculiar people, " when He divided to the nations their inheritance,
and separated tne sons of Adam ;" here seers prophesied, and inroii^
bards sang ; — ^here Gk>d tabernacled amongst men, and the Skm or God
assumed the human form ; here He suffered and died for man, and laid
the foundations of a kingdom that is destined ere long to embrace all the
tribes of mined humanity. The capital of this vast empire is Ck>nstanti*
nople, situated on the strait which separates the European from the
Asiatic provinces, and contains 600,000 inhabitants. The empire is said
to consist of 24 divisions, called vilayets, 12 of which are in Europe, and
12 in Asia. The African provinces are nearlv independent, while the tie
that connects many of the remainder with the Sultan of Constantinople
is verv slender. The total area is vaguely estimated at 1,820,000 sq. m.,
but the population is very sparse, not exceeding 40,000,000, or a little
more than that of the British Isles.
Historical Sketch. — The Ottoman Empire was founded at Prusa, in
Bithynia, in a.d. 1298, by Osman or Othman I., sumamed Elghazi, or the
Victorious. In 1353, the Turks first entered Europe, under Solyman,
who crossed the Hellespont and landed at Gallipoli. In 1360, Amurath
I. overran Eastern Europe, from the Danube to the Adriatic. Adrianople
became the capital of European Turkey in 1362, and Constantinople was
captured by Mahommed II. in 1453, thus terminating the Byzantine or
Ei^tem Roman Empire. Servia was conquered in 1458, Moldavia in 1476,
li^ypt in 1516, Belgrade in 1521, Rhodes from the Knights of St John in
152^ Hun^uy became subject to the Turks by the battle of Mohacz in
1526, when Louis of Hungary was slain. Cyprus was ceded by the Vene-
tians in 1573, and Candia taken in 1669, after a 25 years' siese. In 1686,
Buda was retaken by the Imperialists, and Hungary wrested from Taricey.
Transylvania was lost in 1699. Montenegro was ceded to Turkey in 1718^
bv the peace of Passarowitz ; but she lost the Crimea in 177^ Besnr-
abia in 1812, Greece in 1829, and Roumania, Servia, Montenegro, in 1878;
while Bulgaria is nearly free, Bosnia and Herzegovina are occnpied hf
Austria, Cyprus by Great Britain.
TURKEY IN EUROPE.
(Together with Roumania, Servia, MoNTXNao&o, Ac)
Position and Bonndaries.— N., the Hungarian provineaiof
Austria ; W., Dalmatia, the Adriatic, and the Ionian Seat &»
Greece, the ^gean Sea, and the Sea of Marmora ; E.. the Blade
Sea and Bessarabia. It lies between lat 38^ bT and 4IB^^'^-
and between Ion. 15° 54' and 29° 40' E., thus occapyiog a
than 9° of lat. and nearly 14° of Ion.
TURKEV, 307
Conataatiaopla (Ut. 41°, Ion. 29°), tte cnpital of ths empire, sitnated
not for from its (centre, is nearly on the aame parallel as New York,
Maiiriii, Naples, Bokhara, and Pekin ; and nearly on the aame meridian
as St Patersijurg, Alexandria, and Pott Natal. By the Treaty of Berlin
(July 1878), thoUmita of European Turkey are now reduced to abont one-
half their former dimenaions. The principalities of Eoumania, Bervia,
and Montenegro, formerly tributary, are now independent, and have had
their areas considerably enla^d ; Bulgaria is reduced in size, bnt made
praotioaliy independent ; Bosnia and HerieKOvina are occupied and ad-
ministered by Anstro-Hungary; while the southern parts of Albania and
TbessaJy are to be annoied to Greece. Further, Kusaia baa retaken
possession of that jjart of Roumania lying N. of the Danube and B. of
the Pmth, which she was compelled to cede to Turkey by the Treaty of
Paris, 1856, in return for which Hnumania has obtained posse
that part of Bulgaria named the Uobrudscba. Turkey has also been
obIi|red to cede toRnssia a lat^ portion of Armenia, including Kais and
the seaport Batoum, Finally, by the Anglo-Tnrkish Convention of the
same year, Britain assumed nvtectorate of Asia Minor, for which, in
return, the Sultan assigned Cj-pruB to be occupied by her.
Area and Population. — The area of Eurapean Turkey, aubsequent
to the Treaty of Berlin (1878), U estimated at 69,159 aq. m., and
the popnlatioD at 5,044,000 ; while the area and population of the
dilfereQt sections, then either entirely or practically made free, are
OS follows : —
Eegllsh
squaco mUos.
Population.
5,376,000
1.676,822
286 000
1,859,000
1.213.000
751,000
Sema
Montenegro,
Bulgaria"
Bosnia, Herzegovina, and sandjak of
r_ Norf-Bazar
p Torai, . . .
18,859
3,666
24,754
23,443
is,m
138,879
U 061 622
Political DlvlBloiia. — The European portion of tha empire (in
clatiing Esstera Knmelia, which is still ander the euzerainty of tbs j
Sultan} consists of tlie following fire piovincea : —
Romalift.— CoHSTANTiHOPLB (with Pera) 600 (Bospoma), Hodoato 21
(Twtaa), PrUtina I
»((W), E
308 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Eastern Sximelia.— Philippopolis 28, Tatar-Bazardjik 10 (Maiitza),
Selimnia 20, Eski-Sagra, 20 n., Kezanlik 10 (Tni^a).
Burghas, Jamboli.
Thessaly. — Labissa 25, Trikhala 12 n. (Salembria).
Ambelakm, Pharsala or Satalge, Volo.
Albania.— ScuTABi 20 (Bojana), Jacova 18, Prisrend 35 (Drin)^ Kroya
15, Tirana 10 (Jantra), Herat 12 (Ergent^jDelvino 10 (Flstricza), Janina
3D (Lake Janina), Durazzo 10, Valona 8 (w. coast).
Podgoricza, Carbonara, Tepeleni, Mezzovo, £1 Bassan, Aigyro-Kastro, Arta»
Prevesa, Ochrida.
Crete.— Candia 13, Retimo 8, Canea 12 (N. coast).
BoTunania.— BuoHABEST 177 (Dumbovitza), Galatz 80, Ibraila 28,
Guirgevo 21 (Danube), Jassy 90 n., Huscli 18, Botuchany 40 n. (Pmth),
Bonianie, Fokchany 20 (Seretb), Berlat 26 (Berlat), Piatra 20 (Bistritsa),
Buseo 11 (Buseo), Ployesti 33 (Jalomnitza), Krajova 23 (Scbyl).
Matchin, Adjiud, Baku, Hirsova, Rassova, Kustendjeh, Oltenitca, Teigovist,
Blatina, Earakal, Rlmnik, Kalefat, Tchemecz.
Servia. — Belgrade 28, Semendria 10 (Danube), Nissa 10 n. (Morava).
Gladova, Passarovitz, Kitigrojevatz, Uzitza, Eroschevatz, Leskovitza.
Montenegn^o. — Cetione 1 n. (Boyana), Antivari 8, Dulcigno 7 (Adri-
atic).
Pudgoritza, Nicksics, Spizza.
Bosnia, Herzegovina, and Novi-Bazar. — Bosna-Sebai or Sebajbvo
50 (Migliazza), Zvomik 10, Fotcha 10 (Drin), Banialuka 15 (Verbas),
Mostar 12 (Narenta), Trebinje 10 (Tribinschucza), Novi-Bazar 15 (Ibar).
Travnik, Doboi, Jaitza, Livno, Dubitza, Kliutch.
Bulgaria.— Sophia 18 (Isker), Silistria 23, Rustchuk 28, Sistova 20.
Nicopolis 20, Widin 19 (Danube), Rasgrad 10 (Ak-Lom), Timova 12
(Jantra), Plevna 15 n. (Vid), Varna 16 (Black Sea), Shumla 20 (Kamt-
chik).
Bazardjik, Osman • Bazar, Bergovatz, Dubitza, Samakov, Lovatz or Lofeha,
EostendiL
Descriptive Notes. — European Turkey, Including the independent
provinces above mentioned, contains only two towns (Constantinople
and Bucharest) above 100,000 inhabitants ; five between 100,000
and 50,000 (Adrianople, Saloniki, Bosna- Serai, Galatz^ Jassy);
twenty -eight between 50,000 and 20,000; and thirty between
20,000 and 10,000.
Constantinople (Turk. Stamboul, ane. Byzantium), a larae and oele*
brated city, capital of the Ottoman Empire, and formerly of the Bynn-
tine or Roman Empire, occupies a triangular promontory of -land between
the Bosporus and its inlet, the Golden Horn. Its aspect, when approached
by water, is of the most striking and beautiful description, presenting
a crowd of domes and minarets, backed by the daik foliage of the
cypress and other trees which shade the extensive cemeteries beyond fhe
walls. The streets, however, are narrow and dirty, and are infested with
dogs, which act as public scavengers. The most striking of the pablio
buildings are the Seraglio, or imperial palace, which with its gronndi
occupies an area of three miles ; the church of St Sophia, bnilt bvtiie
Emperor Justinian, in the sixth century, now converted into a liooan-
medan mosque ; and the mosque of Achmet, a fine stractnre, with i
beautiful marble pavement and six minarets. Mannfactam nnimpormii
TOEKEY. 309
ohiefly af morocco leather, saddlery, shoeB, and niearacLaum pipes. By-
nclium WEUfounilfd bjr Byzas, the leader of a Megarian colony, B.C. E£8;
wRsrabviilt by Con.^itantine the Great, a.d. 330; was taken by the Cruaa-
dera in 1204, who retained it till 1361 ; and by the Torka in 1453, an
event which marked the Snal extinction of the Roman Empire in ths
East. Constantinople is the seat of the principal foreign trade of Turkey,
and, inclnding Galata and Pera, has tiOn,ODD inhahitanta, Ihns rankine as
the fifth city on the Coetinent. Gallipoli (anc. Kallipolis), tlie brat
European town taken by the Turks (1356), is row the princii>a! station
of tha Turkish fleet; it ia a place of great trade, and is noted for ita
moroceo leather. Adrianople, founded by the Emperor Adrian, B.C. 378.
wBfl, neit to Constantinople, the chief city of the Eastern Empire, and
.WB9 the capital of the Ottoman Empire from 1366 to 1463. It is tlia
third most populous city in Turkey Proper, has an active commerce in
manufactured goods ; numei ' - -' - » ■
linens; dyeworks andtanuBri
the centra of the cultivation ,
(anc Thessalonica), a laree seaport, and the nBcond commercial city in
European Turkey, has a large trade in British produce, and numerona
eiporta. FUibi (om:. Philippi), where the Gospel was first preached
in Europe. Plllllppopolll, founded by Philip of Maoedon : under the
Romans, it was one of the most Important towns of the country ; baa
flourishing manufactures of woollen, silk, and cotton fabrics, leather,
soap, tobacco, and a considerable transit trade. ButghU, the prin-
cipal seaport town of Eastern Rumelia, noted for its large exports of
com. and Bne clay for tobacco-pipes. IiBTisia, once the capital of the
Pelaagi, is an important manufacturing town noted for its dyeworks,
Near it Satalgs {aiic. Pharsalus), memorable for the decisive battle
between CiBsar and Pompey, B.C. 48, which made Qesar master of the
Roman world. Scutari, once the most important town of lllyricum,
and the residence of the lUyrian King Gentius, ia the capital of Albania,
and the centre of a great inland i^de. Prlarend, the residence of
the Turkish governor, contains nnmeroua moaqnaa, with mannfaoturea
or flrearms, which are much celebrated. Juiina has a melancholy
celebrity from its connection with the infamous Ali Pasha, who reduced
it to ashes in 1820, In its vicinity once stood Dodona, the seat of the
most celebrated oracle of antiquity. Candla,, a fortified seaport, and cap.
of the Island Crete, came into the hands of the Turks in 1669. Bnnhuest,
capital of Boumania since 1861 (formerly capital of Wallachia), is, though
poorly and irregularly built, a thriving place, and tha princi]^ entrepot
for the commerce between Turkey and Austria. Here w '"
a the left hank of the Danube, the chief porta of Eoumania; at these
two places the ButslBn army crossed the Danube In June 1877. Juiy,
formerly capital of Moldavia, »nd now the second city in fioumania,
maintains an active commerce In agricultural produce. Enstandjeh
is a fortiiied seaport on the Block Sea. at the E. termination of Tr^an's
WalL Belgrada, capital of Secvia, is a strongly fortified city at tha
confluence of the Danube and Save, an entrepfitof the commerce between
Turkey and Anstria, and the most western outpost of Mohammedaniim
in Europe, mwa or Hitch, pilndpsi place in the new territory acquired
^■»"-""" *n 187S. Catiffng, capital of Montenegro, is a me™ villagB.
. .m elevated valley. Aativarl and IhUdgno, the two seaports
■U ODten^ro. The latltr. situated on the summit of a toftv peninsula,
^^ the niqjeot of mocb diplomatic litigation between I'urWy vxA Vw.
- "-— -n poiwpi ial8M. iMMt^wtf cr " '" —
310 POLITICAL GEOGBAFHT.
well-built, fortified, and commercial city, is the capital of Bosnia, a pro-
vince now occupied by Austria. Mostar, capital of Herzegovina, noted
for itR ancient Koman bridge, which consists of a single arch 95 feet in
span; has manufactures of swords and firearms, and exports hides,
wool, and cattle. UTovi-Basar, capital of sandjak of same name, lying
between Servia and Montenegro, which was ceded to Austria in 1878,
but still administered by Turkey. Sophia, present capital of Bulgaria,
situated in a beautiful plain on the Isker, and on the grand route from Con-
stantinople to Belgrade. Silistria, Sustclmk, Siatova, NioopoUs, and
Widin. commercial and fortified towns on the south bank of the Danube,
and the scenes of numerous conflicts between the Turks and Rnssianfl.
Timova, a fortified town of Bulgaria, was captured by the Busaians
July 1877, after a lengthened siege and several bloody engagements.
Varna, the principal port of Turkey on the Black Sea, is the place fttmi
which the Anglo-French army embarked for Sebastopol in 1854. Migml^
situated in one of the main passes of the Balkans, was strongly fortified,
and reckoned one of the keys of Constantinople ; but its fortifications,
together with those of all the other strongholds in Bulgaria, were ordered
to be demolished by the Treaty of Berlin in 1878. Pleviia, the strong-
hold of Osman Pasha during the late war, was finally captured by the
Russians after a protracted and deadly struggle.
Capes and Islands. — Linguetta, on the W. coast of Albania;
Faliuri, Drapano, and Monte Santo, the extremities of three penin-
sulas on the coast of Macedonia ; Helles Boumu, at W. entrance of
the Dardanelles ; Emineh, N.E. of Rumelia ; Ealagria, E. of Bul-
garia. The Islands belonging to Turkey are Crete, Scarpanto, and
Caxo, at the mouth of the ^ean Sea ; the Turkish Sporades (the
chief of which are Leninos or Stelymene, Imbros, Samothi^Eiki, Thaso^
and Strati), in the N. of the ^gean Sea. The islands on the coast
of Asia Minor, as Lesbos, Scio, Samos, Rhodes, and Cypms, b^ong
rather to the Asiatic portion of the empire.
Seas, Oolfii, and Straits.— The Adriatic and Ionian Seas, bet
Turkey and Italy ; ^gean Sea, bet. Thessaly and Anatolia ; Sea of
Marmora, bet. Thrace and Anatolia; Black Sea, bet. European
Turkey and Caucasia. Gulfs of Drin, Avlona, and Arta, W. of
Albania; Str. of Otranto, joining the Adriatic and Ionian Seas;
Channel of Corfu, between Corfu and Albania; Gulf of Volo, S.K,
of Thessaly ; Gulfs of Salonika, Cassandra, Monte Santo, Gonteasa,
and Saros, S. of Rumelia ; the Dardanelles or Hellespont, connecting
the ^gean Sea with the Sea of Marmora ; the Bosporus, or ChannM
of Constantinople, uniting the Sea of Marmora witn the Black Sea;
Gulf of Burgas, N.E. of Rumelia.
Surface and Mountains. — The greater part of the snr&ce of Euro-
pean Turkey is an undulating region of hills and yalleys, moontaini
and table-lands, of moderate elevation. There are tnree principal
mountain-ranges, which divide the country into three almost equal
climatic regions, and which form the great water-partings between
the principal river-basins — viz., 1. The Western range, sepaiating
the basins of the Adriatic and Ionian Seas from those of the Danube
and iEgcan Sea ; 2. The Balkan range, or Mount Hsemna, between
the Danube and the ^gean Sea ; an<£ 8. The Eastern Cupathiu%
between the basins of the Theiss and Lower Danube.
of llic Julian
, ^ tier, and sepa-
nttiiiE the basins of the Adriatic and Ionian Seaa from those of tha
DsJiiibe and JEgean Sea. Thia l-snge is known as the Linaric Alpiia
the north, and as Griimmn> or the Pi-ndv) Cltain in the south : Mount
Olympna, in the }t. of TheEsaly, the culniinatmK point of the whole
peninsoli^ 674B feet, lies considerably E. of tbti nuge. The other loftiest
■njnmits are, Mount Dinara, la Croatia, 7458 feet ; Mount Pindus,
between Allunia and Thessaly, 8930 feet : and Mount Ida, in Ciet«,
707* feet Height of snow-line on Monnt Olympus, 9000 feet.
The Balkan or Uamva Han^, hranching off at right angles from tha
Hellenlo range, and eitending eastward to Cape Emineh m the Slack
rvigo, named Despoto T>agh (anc, HAodope), hranchea off sonthwarda
trom the middle of the main range, sepanituig the basins of the Maritia
and Kani-sUp and containing Kilo D^h, 8313 feet, a ' " ' ' "
ontlier, 06SS feet.
TheHai
m that of
HuDKarianproTu
the Cower Dannba (see under "
Momtttiin-PaiHi, — Trajan's Gate and the Shnmla Pass, In the Balkan
range ; the Iron Gate, Vulcan Pass, Bnthenthnrm Pass, Boia Pass, in the
Carpathians, between Wallachia and Transylvania ; Gymea Pass, hetween
Moldavia and TransyWania.
FUndpal KiTBT-BEiEiiLa. — The rivers of European Turkey are
naturally diTideJ into three groups — viz., those flowing westward
to the Adriatic and Ionian S<^as ; those flnwiug southward to tha
of basin 18,200 sq. m. ; and those Howing eastward to the Black
Sea, the principal being the Danube, 1785 to. long, area of basin
SOS, 000 sq. m.
TaUe of Rlvara ajid Towns. ^The follon-ing table comprises 50
of the principal rivers of Turkey, cf which 18 enter the sea directly
and 32 indirectly. Though the Dannhe with its tributaries was given
at Jenffth under Austria, we insert again here, for the conve
~'te student, the portion of its basin belonging to Turkey.
d Ionian Scai.
! ..Stolaa.
. . Jmosnlif, Litno,
...Sodubi.Cktibhb, n,
...Podffonaa.
...Alt-iB.Oclirida.
. .".Kmra, Titinii.
. ..Et Aaiaa, Karlija,
Deropuli, !...^rovro-Ka
KstricHi, IMvino.
ArUG.SBdB,,/V<Mm. ^
Co. iltumin, ..^iTjffonri, .
312
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Bcuins inclined to the ^ean Sea.
Riven. Toums. \ Jtivers.
Balembria, .... Larissa, A m^lakia, Tri- G. of Lagos, . . Lagos.
Townt.
cala, n.
Satalge, .... Pharsala.
G. of Ssuonika, Salonika,
Karasu, Servicij Kastoria, n.
Mauronero, ...AUtklieti, YenUfja-Var-
dar.
Yardar, Yodena, n., Istib, n., Eu-
piili, Uskup.
Tzema, Monastir.
Strymon, Neokliorio, Seres.
Angites, I ..Filibi, Drama.
G. of Kavallo, Kavallo.
Maritza, EnnSt
n., AdrUmoplef
polls or FiUbi,
Tatar-Ba!zar4jlk,iroiea-
nitZt Samakov,
Erkeneh, l..Uirep6U.
Teams, ...Kirk-EUlssla.
Tondja, Adrianople, JawJMif 8«>
llnmla, Bski-Sagra, n.,
Dardanelles, . . GallipolL
S. of Marmora, Rodosto, Erekli.
Bosporus, .. ..GONSTANTIKOPLE, P«fTL
Basins inclined to the Black Sea.
E. Co. of Ru- Midia, Ainada, Burgas.
melia,
Eamtcbik, .... Shumla, Eski-Djuma.
Pravadi Varna, Pravadi, Yeni-
Bazar.
Danube, Baba-Dagh, Ellla, Ismael,
Jteni, Galacz, Ibrail,
Matsnint Hirsova.Rcu-
sovOt SiLisTRLA., OUcn-
itza, Turtukai, Giur-
gevo, Rustchuk, Sisto-
va, Nicopoli, Widdin,
Kal e/a t, TcTiemecz,
Seinendria, Pancsova,
Belgrade, Aeo. — (See
under '• Austria,")
Jalpuch, 2 ..Ismael, Bolgrad.
Ptuth, I ,, ..Beni, Husch, Jassy, n.,
Botuchany, n., Czemo-
"witz.
Sereth, I.... Galacz, Adjivd, n., BcAu^
Roman.
Berlat, I . . Berlat.
Bistritza, Pietra, Bisfritza.
Jalomnit- Hirsovat Ployesti.
za, I
Argish, Oltenitza, Tergovist,
Argish.
Dumbo- Bucharest.
vitza,<
Lorn Osman-Bazar.
Ak-Lom, . . . .Rasgrad.
J antra, Timova.
Alt or Alu- Nicopoli, Slatina, RitH'
ta, I nikt Kronstadt^ n.
Isker, Sophia.
Schyl, I .... Kn^ova.
HoTovsi, ....Krago^evaez, n., Kruh
ehewxez, Lescovitza,
Nis8a.li.
Ibar, Not! - Bazar, Fristtna,
Kotsova.
Save, Belgrade, SehavaeM.
Drin, Zvomik. Belina.
Bosna,.... Dofroi, Maglai, Tnumlk,
n.
Migliaz-BosNA-ScRAL
za,
Yerbas,. . .Banialuka, JiUcMO.
Unna,....0radi8to, Novi, Bikaei,
JDtUnetA.
Sanna, Novi, KUiUek.
Lakes. — The principal lakes are Scutari, in the N.W. of Albaniif
drained by the Boyana ; Ochrida, between Albania and IfaoedonUt
drained by the Drin ; and Janina^ in the S.£. of Albania, in tiie
basin of the Arta. There are also several lani^ fresh-water Ifl^ooni
near the mouth of the Danube, as Rassein, Jalpuch, &o.
Climate.— Owing partly to the elevation of the snr&ee, andjparllj
to its exposure to N. E. ^^dnds from the interior of Russia, the oumata
of Turkey is more severe than its latitude would lead ub to eKpest;
and it is, moreover, subject to sudden and violent flnetuatioiUL
Though few of the mountains reach the limit of peraimial oongaHattaii^
snow lies during the greater part of the year in the rocosses of tlia liUhtf
elevations ; while in the plains of Rumania, the thennamoter <"'
sometimes to 15° below zero, and the sledge is used for tnsnS^^
Russia. A great portion of Albania, being protectsd bj HKmn
N.£. winds, eigoys a delicioos climate ; but this r^^ion is !
TUKKEV. 313
TfsiteJ ty destniclivB eartliqiiakes. In the rofky districts of the interior,
and in tba maritime valleys of the W., Uio aumnier is eicassiTel; hot.
Around Ihs capital the climate is Eitiemely Toriable, especially in winter
«nd spring— mow and hard frost alternating with mitd weather, andtha
temperatora sometiniea cbandng to the extent of S0° in a eii^a night.
At tha mouth of tha Danuhe the winter tompBrature ia the aaine as in the
interior of Iceland. The isotherm for January, which passes through the
centre of that Island and the S.W. of Norway, through Holland and
Fnknkfiirt-on-the-Main, crosses the Danuhe at Begensburg in BaTaris.
and the Theisa at Szegedin in Hungary, proceeds along the northern fron-
tier of Wallachia, and quita the contment at Lake Baaaein In Bulgaria.
At Constantinople the mean temperatnre for the year is 58°.S, tor winter
40', and for summer 72°. The annnal quantity of ram is moderate over
the entire peninsula, rarely exceeding 32 inches.
fieology. — The geology of Turkey has not been very accurately
. Biplored; but, bo far as presently known, crystalline rooks covae
almost the entire area hounded by tlie Bsjkana, Mouat Pindna, and
the basin of the Maritza, together with a somewhat extensive tract
5. ofthe Golf of Burgas. SUurian strata do not occur, hut N.W. of
Constantinople there ia a small tract of upper palieoioic; another
in the Balkan Mountains ; and a third on the Danabe, near Orsora,
Secondary strata chiefly occupy the western prorincea, together with
■ long belt S. of the Balkans, extending from the Morava to the
Black Sea. Rumania, and the N. part of Servia aud Bosnia, all
lying in Che basin of the Safe and Lower Danube, belong to the
tertiary series ; as also the S, W. of Albania, from the Scombl to the
6. of Arta, together with the basin of the Moritzo,
MintralL—Coil is nowhere fonnd, except a small quantity in the
moontains of Rumelia. Iron of the best quality is very abundant, but
the mhios in actual operation are few in number. Many of the veins
■which traverse the prystaUms schists aro highly raetalliferons, and lead
yielding a considerable percentage of silver has at difibrent periods been
wrought to some extent ; but neither govemmeut nor people seem In-
olinod to turn the mineral treasures of the country to good acconnt.
Other minerals are, goM in small quantities, copper, magnstio irou,
marbie, sulphnr, salt, and alum.
Botajiy BJid AErlotiltiar& — Turkey belongs entirely to Schauw*3
third phyto-geographic region, and its ftora, therefore, corresponds to
that of the other two great poninsnlaa of Southtrn Europe (see p.
82). A great difference, however, eiiists betweon tha Tegetation of
the basin of the Dannbe and tliat of the pravinoea S. of the Balkans.
In the fanner tha foreati lonsEst of the pina, beeoh, oalc (vhich yields
the Valonia acorn, so vbIuliIjIi' for taiiuini;), lime, nud ash. bcaidea
the apple, pear, oherry.
throughout extenaiv I- i'
oonSnod to the aides "i
hibit the plane, loapli-,
"It treei, ta alaa the l".
;b fonista at flr and
I Tha oliva thrives in the nudtiin
314 POUTICAL GEOGRAPHY.
orange and citron are cultivated ; and the vine in all the proyiacee, though
in the valley of the Danube the fruit is deficient in saccharine matter.
littie wine u produced for exportation, as it is so carelesfdy manu&ctmed
as to be unfit for shipping. While Candia and CypruB were poesessed by
the Venetians, they supplied all Europe with the choicest deeaert winei.
Now, however, the total produce of the vintage of these islands does not
amount to one- tenth of wnat it then was. Fruit-trees of nnmenniB spedet
are ex^mely abundant, especially in Albania ; while the Bonthem base
of the Balkans, especially the plain of Adrianople, is remaikable for the
abundance of its roses, from which the celebrated attar (otto of roses)
is distilled. About 800,000 roses are required to produce an oimoe of the
oil, which, when pure, fetches an enormous price. The opium and other
drugs for which Turkey is so famous, are confined to the Asiatic pro-
vinces. The system of agriculture pursued is of the rudest descriptKni,
and only a small x>ortion of the country (probably not more than a sixth)
is under cultivation, though the soil is in most parts abundantly ferffle,
and better adapted for the CTowth of the cereals than any other jwrt of
Europe. Maize is cultivated in the S. ; rice, cotton, rye, and barley in
the central parts ; wheat, barley, and millet in Moldavia.
Zoology. — The fauna of the Hellenic peninsula does not differ vexy
materially from that of the Italian. It comprises 65 Mammals, 42
of which are camivora, 14 rodentia, 8 ruminantia, and 1 pachyderm
— viz., the wild-boar. The camivora include the bat, bear, badger,
marten, wol^ dog, fox, civet, and wild-cat. The rodents embrace
the squirrel, beaver, hedgehog, vole, mouse, rat, and hare. The
ruminants include the deer, antelope, chamois, and wild-ox. The
lion, anciently found on Mount Olympus, has lone been extirpated.
Birds comprise 259 species, of which 31 are birds of prey, 15 climben,
100 songsters, 12 gallinaceous birds, 64 waders, and 87 swimmen.
The bustard and partridge abound in the valleys, and game is plen-
tiful in the mountains. The Reptiles are 27 in number, embracing
land-tortoises, lizards, frogs, and serpents. The Fishes of the Medi-
terranean, so far as presently known, are 444 in number, and nearly
all occur on the W. and S. coasts. Tunny, coral, and sponge fisheries
are characteristics of the Mediterranean. Trout and other fish are
plentiful in the rivers ; and leeches, which abound in the marshes,
form an important article of exportation. The fishes and other
inhabitants of the Black Sea are regarded as a colony from the
Mediterranean, and though fewer in number, do not greatly differ in
species.
Ethnography. — The population of European Turkey belonsa, for
the most part, to three distinct races — the Sclavonian, Greco-Latin,
and Turkish.
The Sclavoniaus, who are by far the most numerous, people Bulgaria,
Servia, Bosnia^Herzegovina, Montenegro, and ThesMly. The Greco-
Latins occupy W allachia, Moldavia, and the greater part of Albania, and
also embrace about a million of Greeks proper in Rumelia and Thesatly,
The large province of Bumelia, especially the part of it extending from
the Vardar to the Black Sea, is chiefly inhabited by the Turks or Osman-
lee, so named from Osman, the ancestor of the present rulmg dynasty
and founder of the Turkish Empire (a.d. 1298). The Osmanlee, who
Tl-p.ELY.
315
0 iaQed Otton
I
. ... f Asiatic "rigin, and ore dJstinpiiBlied
s I'j tlidr luiftiite«. custDmE, and pbi^LtoJ uhamcur.
Bongn xLe aanuniuii isoe in Emojjean Turkey, tljey an nnniBriiailly a
ore fraolJon of the popnlalion, proliBbly not' BXCEeding 1,500.000 pET-
nu. Bceidoe the capi^ and tlie eastern part of B-muelxa, they lean
cmiBideralile fruction of the population trf moEt of iIib lor^ towns.
be Turkish Impnape, a rich sua polinhed tonpne, forme an imjiortant
ember of tike gT^at FinaoTortarian familv {aee under "Aoa"). The
mndpal SclaTonic dialects upoten in Turkey are th? Bnlgsriiui, Bflirian,
gngninn, and Ooatian ; vhile the chief Greco - Latin Um^neE are tin
Smnoic or UodflriL Qreek, the Wallaciuan, ^^eb is little elije tiian a
comiptcd Latin, and tbe Albanian or AmantB, the probaUe nnireseii-
t«tivB of the KDcient DljTiBii. The SclasoniaiiB and Greco -LatinB,
ntunbering logBthBT abont 10,000.(100, twlortg to the Qreek Churofa ;
Oie Osmatdae, together witb a large portion of the inbobilairt* of A!-
tenia, omonntinc in the aggregate to upwards of d,0fl0,0nu, are HoliiaD-
medame ; vMle the remainiler of the population are Bataan CaUudicg,
ArmmiiajiB, ProleBtontc, Jews, and GjpflieK. Formerly tbe poniahmeiil
cf death waF inflicted on edy one rsDomiGiiig the reli^on of the £.oTin ;
BUd thoQgh by a recent decree of the emperor aU persecution on rsligiouB
groimde k abolished, the bigntn of the UDhmnmedaiiB remninB niimiti-
pited. BincE tbe Crime&n var, hrrweret, Soriptoral truth bas made
considerate progn^. The peat mase of tbe people are almost irlioily
— ^ — ■ ^ lOTiliouplj elementarj' 8[:biiolB are aomewbot numerona, the
— Tbe literature of tbe Turte is of ancient oripn and
lughlv resj'ectalile. Ihiring tbe reign of QthtDon and Ida immolate
•QcoeBBort — that is, in tbe tbirtestrtb ajid fonrteentli centimes — it
mniisted for the most part of tranalatiianE from tbe Arabic, Peidan,
Greek, Sid Latin, and mare recently from tbe F-ngli"*', French, and
German. These traiialatJDna embraced "WDr^ on bistory, geography,
gaaal or native literature if of a higher order tiiaa is usaally Hnp^ioBed.
Aabik Paaha, the oldest Tntkiah poet of renown, lived during tlie reign
•a£ OsniaiL The reign of Bayand ll. was dietuiguisbed by the poete Jie-
Jtti, DOnsidGnid the first lyric poet of bia time ; Ueeibi, wimm ' ' Ode to
iQpniie" it higMy oelebiUed; and Soki U>t>> 1600). genoisllT tegarded
— ■"-- — atBst Turkish poet Tbe last century produced Nabi Btandi,
in, and £4ieMb Pasba, called "tbeBuJtan of thepoetc of Bum."
aj niimeroua. and aume of them bigbly esteemed for
and the concise besutr of then- style ; ae Ali, a canteni-
foMT-tC SaU, -wluiH mirk, entitled 'Mines of History,' is one of the
*a4aia«Biinin^rinstbe earlier and middle periods of TnrMah histoi?.
<Mfcf aMiinjUiilwlliiitonant an Solafc Zade. Haji KhaUab, Sdria, Salma,
^^dfl, •judb BbUo, and Waauf (A.S. 1SU0-17TJ). Tbe most distin-
g^Mbad in Biocnpby is Latifi, who irroui the lives of aliont SUO TmMsh
poota. Turkish litoatuie has also been enriched by numerous vorka on
— — 'i, drrinity, and philosophy. Their pbiloeopbT, which originBted
' "jB Bcbool of Jtokiiiro, lias a mystical cbaiacter, imd re-
ry points tbe speculative doctrines of BcbeUiug, especially
imn ragaia vi pantheism. — Peniy Cyclop. , vol. xir.
OonmBMBt md nnaim.~The eDi-enaucut i^ au heradltajy ab-
I tiie :
316 POLITICAL GEOOBAPHY.
flolutism, the Saltan or Emperor being assisted by thirteen ministers^
at the head of whom is the Grand Vizier.
On his accession to the throne^ the Sultan, instead of being crowned
like other European sovereigns, is girt with the sword of Osman, and
made to swear that he will govern tne empire in strict accordance with
the principles of the Kor^. The government of the provinces is admin-
istered by pashas, who are absolute in their respective tenitorieSy bat
hold office only during the pleasure of the Sultan. Persons of the meanest
origin and basest character are frequently elevated to the office of pasha :
hence many of the provinces, especially in Asia, are reduced to deserts,
from the rapacity and extortion of their rulers. Corruption, indeed, ^-
vades every department of the state, whether civil, military, or ecclesias-
tical, and the entire empire threatens to fall speedily to pieces — a consum-
mation which had long ere now been realised, except for the intervention of
other European powers. The two principalities of Wallachia and Mol-
davia were united, in 1861, by a firman of the Sultan, and named Rumania.
The reigning prince, who is styled Hospodar, is Charles I., of the House
of Hohenzollem-Sigmaringen. The government is hereditary, and con-
stitutional. The Sultan receives from Rumania an annual tribute of
£40,000. Servia was ruled by native princes from 1815 to 1856, when it
was placed under theprotection of the great European powers, as a semi-
independent state. The government is vested in the Prince, assisted by
a council of five ministers, who are responsible to the nation, bat who
must be nominally recognised by the Sultan. In Montenegro the ruling
prince is styled Hospodar, whose authority is permitted, but not recog-
nised, by the Porte. The military force of Turkey, on the peace footing,
numbers 460,000 men, including 75,000 auxiliaries from the three tribu-
tary provinces. Previous to the late war with Russia, the navy comprised
70 vessels, carrying 4000 guns. Most of these ships were destroyed by
the Russians in 1853, and others foundered in the Black Sea. During the
last ten years the navy has been entirely remodelled, and now embraces
185 ships of war (several of them ironclads, built in England), carrying
2370 guns. In 1870, the Revemie amounted to £16,000,000 ; the Expendi'
twe, to £18,000,000 ; and the Public Debt, to £74,000,000.
ManofactnreB and Commerce. — Manufacturing industry is, for the
most part, confined to the production of coarse articles for home con-
sumption, as woollen and cotton stufifs, shawls, leather, firearms, to-
gether with dyeing and printing works. In the caplttd, however, and
some of the chief provincial towns, silks, fine cottons, embroidery*
filigree ornaments, and meerschaum pipes, are extensively prodac«!a.
In 1874, the total value of the exports and imports amounted to
£38,000,000. The former chiefly comprise grain, wool, raw cotton,
silk, tobacco, attar of roses, and hides. In 1873, Torkey exported
to Britain goods to the value of £6,068,993, the main articles being
com and raw cotton (about £1,000,000 each) ; receiving in letoin
goods to the value of £7,733,842, two-thirds of which conaisted of
cotton cloth and yam. She exports silks in great quantities to Mar-
seilles, hides to Trieste, and attar of roses to various European coun-
tries. The principal articles imported, besides the above^ are me-
tallic goods and colonial produce. Constantinople is the chief seat
of the foreign trade, which, together with the internal traffic, li
mainly conducted by Greeks, Armenians, and English. The Bereniw
KUBSIA. 317
amonnta to £22,000,000, wliich ia ulwavs grentlj exceeded by tiie
Ex[ienditui'e, Mid a liiiajidal collapse is daily HSpected.
Internal Communication. — Very few of the roads are practicable
for carriages, and boraeB or mules are generally employed for tlie
GomeyaTice of passengers and goods. On the moat freq^uented lines of
road are placed caravanaerai oc hhant, which are large bnildings with
an open courtyard in the centre, for the acooraioDdatioQ of travellers.
The Danube is the great highway of commerce for the noithem pio-
TTBcef, especially since its several mouthscame to be embraced mth-
in the boundary of Turkey. The navigation of its lotrer course is
under the control of a turojiean oommisaion, appointed in 1858,
which holds ilB sittings at Galacz, The only railways hitherto con-
utracted are the line uniting Constantinople with Adrianople and
Phillipolia ; that from Varna to Kustcbnk ; and from Eustchni to
Jaesy and Lemberg.
RUSSIA.
Thb BuBsian Empire is the largest state in the world, with
tile exception of the Britiab, which considerably exceeds it. In.
additLon to its Enropean ttiiritories, which occupy more than a
ifcalf of the continent^ it embmces one-third of the vnst continent
,*f Asia. It is 4830 miles long from E. to W., along the Arctic
'eiicle, has an average breadth of about 1760 miles, and an area
of nearly 8,000,000 sq. m,— being upwards of one-aeventh of the
land-surface of the globe. Its population is remarkably email
in proportion to its pcodirions extent, being only 83,260,000
Sirsons, or one-sixteenth of the population of the globe. The
ritish Empire, with an area of 8,616,000 sq, m., has 282,054,000
inhabitants ; the Chinese Empire, with an area of 3,925,000 si],
has 425,000,000 inhabitante; and the United States of
srica, with an area of 3,603,884 sq. m., liaa a |H>pnlatioa of
'25,000. The following table presents at one view the area
population of the different sections of this vast empire : — -
Aral in EngUsb
Square MOsa.
Rnssla in Enrops (Inolud- 1
LDg Finland and Poland, {
Caucasia,
Kbaria and Central Aala.
2,110,317
170.798
S,586,S7B
71,710,090
6.200,000
6,8*2,000
818 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
RUSSIA IN EUROPR
Position and Boundaries. — ^N., the Arctic Ocean and Nor-
way ; W., Sweden, the Baltic, Prussia, Austria, and Moldavia ;
S., the Black Sea and Mount Caucasus ; E., the Caspian and
Siberia, from which it is separated by the Ural river and moun-
tains. Two governments (rerm and Orenburj?) extend beyond
the proper lunits of Europe ; but these, together with Trans-
caucasia, we shall here regard as belonging to European RuBsia.
The strictly European portion of the empire lies between lata.
40° 20' and 70° K, and between Ions. 17° SC and 67* E., and so
embraces nearly 30° of latitude, and 49° of longitude.
Moscow, the former capital (lat. 55° 42', Ion. 87** 390, is situated ahnoft
exactly in the centre, and is on the same parallel as Nain in Labrador,
Edinburgh, Copenhagen, Tomsk, and the middle of the peninsula of
Kamtscmttica ; and on tiie same meridian as Onega, Kertch, Aleppo,
Damascus, Medina, Gondar, and Quilliman^ ; but St Petersbuig, the
modem capital, is in the same latitude as 0. Farewell, Lerwick, and
Christiania. If Poland be omitted, the form of European Russia is a
tolerably regular oblong, having its greatest length, from N. to S., about
2000 miles. The extreme breadth, in the latitude of Warsaw, is 1500
miles. The coast-line is about 4700 miles, being 1 mile of coast to every
448 m. of surface. This seaboard belongs to four distinct seas — ^viz., the
Arctic Ocean, 2000 miles ; the Baltic, 1000 ; the Black Sea and Sea of
Azov, 1000 ; and the European coast of the Caspian, 700 miles. The
northern seaboard, however, is comparatively useless, being frozen for
nine months in the year ; but the deficiency is compensated for by the
numerous canals and navigable rivers with whidi Russia is intersected in
all directions.
Area and Population. — Area 2,110,817 sq. m. ; or, including Trans-
caucasia, 2,281,115. This area is only a little more than the fourth
part of the entire empire, and yet it is seventeen times that of the
British Isles, or about three-fifths of the entire area of Europe. In
1867 the population of European Russia was 71,716,690 ; or, includ-
ing Transcaucasia, 76,916,000, being about 32 persons to the square
mile. In 1726 the population of the entire empire was only 14, 000, 000 ;
at the accession to the throne of the Emperor Nicholas, in 1825, it
amounted to 61,000,000 ; while it is now more than 83,000,000. This
single fact most vividly represents the aggressive policy of Russia.
Political BiviBions. — European Russia, including the region beyond
the Caucasus, is divided into 68 distinct governments and 8 terri*
tones. These are usually grouped into 10 main sections, which,
though no longer regarded as political designations, are so familiar to
the Russians themselves, and are so frequently mentioned in the geo-
graphical, historical, and statistical details oi the present day, uiat
an acquaintance with them is of great importance. The geographical
position of these divisions is as follows : —
L The Baltic Provinces, containing the capital, in the eztieme W. of
r
the 6ini)ire, bat the Bait.in Sea and the Gulf of Finland. 2. Tlio Princi-
pality of Finlanil, in the N,W,, and chieHy bet. the Gulfa of Finland and
Botlmia. 3, Maacovy, or Great Rnasid, in the S., N.E., and centre. 4.
Czantte of Easan, bet. Maicovy and Siberia. B. Czaiatfi of Astrakhan,
liet. Kaaan and the river Ural. 6. Ruasiaa Poland, in ths S.W,, bet.
Austrian and Prussian Poland. 7. West Russia, S. of the Baltic Pro-
vinoea, and bet. Poland and MuseOTy. S. The Ukraine, or Little Boesia, S.
of Grant Russia. 9. Bouth Russia, bet. Little Russia and the Black Sea.
10. Cancaaia, bet. the Black Sea and the Caspian. Muscovy formed the
original nuclvus of the empire ; it was freed from the Tartar yoke by Ivan
Ba^owlbc, the first Czar, in 1479 ; the kingdom of Kasan was conquered
from the descendants of Zenghiz Khait In 1662' Astrakhan, formerly a
Tartar kingdom, was annexed to Ru)!sia in 1557; the Ukraine, long a cause
of Btrife between the HubcdiIMs, LithnanianB, and Mongols, came into
the possession of the Cuirs in 1636 ; tlie Baltic Provincee were seized &om
Sweden between 1700 and 1710, and Finland in 1309 ; South Russia was
ceded bj Turkey, partly at the Peace of Jaeay in 1792, and partly at the
Peace of Bnchareat in 1812; the region of the Caueaaiis was wrested from
Petaia between 1723 and 1813 ; Russian Poland was annexed at the tliree
BiiooeasivB partitions of that ill-fated kingdom, in 1772, 1793, and 1795 ;
vhile CiicaBBla has been subjugated dnring the last few years-
ToE Baltic Provisces.
- Bt Feterabni^ or Ingria.— St P£TBl<SBDB06d7,Eronstadt4Sn. (Keva),
I 2arskoi-3elo 11 n. (laohora)-
Tavnt lutuieen 5000 otkI 10,00(1 in*a6f(flii!».— GatshinB, Sarva,
ZsUuniu.— Rbvul 29 lO. of Finland).
LivoniOr— RiOA 102 (Dlina), Dorpat 14 (Embach), Pemau 7 (Pemau)-
Coinluid. — MmAti 2S (Treider-Aa), Libau 9 (W. coast).
pRisciFALirr or FntLiND.
Mcscovr OR Great Enasi.L
Arkhangel.* — Abehaniiel 25 (Dwina).
• The Russian alphabet now in usb canaktB of 3« letten
Wweli. 3 MiDi-vowels. and n consonants. Not a few or lite
iimi^ £e<n Ini
gnpUes emplnyed-
jimaouDclBB F— '-
■IWeet of Sni
"""Si"
[e discrepancy has a
Itogcllicr
IB ortho-
Rnssfa. Thevn-Bl
TbD»
vely K,
ol It greatly reaeqiblM
(Aiialfer-in^rxirg).
cA la nhurch, as Czar, Toropec: (Tiar or
JaroalaT (Tar-a-tlia').
Tttar, Tar-trpatt or Tet-o^Uh',
L J, medial or final = French J, erVin pimmt™, u NiJnl-BovgDroa (Jf iiA'Bi-ffo
glish, as Wolgi, TwBrtia (VuVga, Tiwpfiirt
320 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
01oneti.--PETROZAYODSE 11 (Lake Onega), Olonetz 3 (Lake Ladoga).
Vologda.— Vologda 19, Ustiug- Veliki 13 (Sukhona).
Novgorod.— Novgorod 18 (Volkhov), Borovitchi 12 (Msta).
Staraja-Russa, Tikhvin.
Jaroslav.— Jaboslav 30, Uglitch 11, Rybinsk 15 (Volga).
Rostov.
Kostroma.— Kostroma 14 (Volga).
Pskov.— Pskov 17 (Velikaja), Toropecz 6 (Toropa).
Tver.— Tver 80, Rshev 19, Ostashkov 10 (Volga), Torshok 16 (Tvertsa),
Vishnel-Volotchok 14 (Tsna).
Vladimir. — Vladimir 13 (Kliazma).
Alexandrov, Pereslav, Murom, Melenki, Visa.
N\ini-Novgorod.—NiJNi- Novgorod 42 (Volga), Aizamasl2 (Tiosha).
Potshinki, Murashkino, Pavlovo.
Smolensk.— Smolensk 23 (Dnieper), Viasma 13 (Viasma).
Dorogobusk, RoslavL
Kaluga.— Kaluga 37 (Oka), Shisdra 10 (Sliisdra), Borovsk 5 (Protva).
Tula.— Tula 58 (Upa), Bielev 7 (Oka), Jefremov 7 (Metscha).
Riazan.— Rdlzan 22, Kasimov 11 (Oka), Skopin 13 (Werda).
Pronsk, Mikhailov.
Moscow. — Moscow 620 (Moskva), Kolomna 16, Seipuchov 11 (Oka).
Borodino, Troitskoi-Monastere.
Orel.— Orel 44, Mzensk 14 (Oka), Jeletz 30, Livny 14 (Sosna-fiis-
tra'ia).
Eatchev, Bnansk, Sievsk, Bolkhov.
Kursk.— Kursk 27, Putivl 7 (Seim), Bielgorodl5 ponetz), StaroX-Oskol
11 (Oskol).
Eorotcha, Rylsk, Miropolie, Oboian, NovoX-Oskol.
Voronetz.— VoRONETZ 41 (Vorona).
Birioutclie, Javrov.
Tambov.— Tambov 36, Morsliansk 16 (Tzna), Lipetsk 13, Kozlov 29
(Vorona).
Jelatom, Usman, Shatzk.
CZARATE OF KaSAN.
Perm.— Perm 19, Kungour 12 (Kama), Ekaterinbuig 22 (Isset), Nqoi-
Taglisk 27 (Tagil), Neviansk 18 (Neiva).
Irbit, Euslivinsk.
Viatka.— ViATKA 15 (Viatka).
Kasan.— Kasan 79 n. (Volga), Tchistopol 10 (Kama),
Simbirsk.— Simbirsk 25, Syzran 21 (Volga).
Penza.— Penza 25 (Sura), Saransk 13 (Saranga, a^, Alatyry.
Erasno-Slobodsk, N^ni-Lomov.
Czarate of Astrakhan.
Saratov.— Saratov 93, Wolgsk 24, Dobovka 12, KhvaUndc 11 (VolliJb
Kusnetz 13 (Sura).
Eamyschin, Petrovsk.
Samara.—SAMARA 34 (Volga).
BUBSIA.
OrenliiiM,— ORENBUEa !
(.UralaklKUral).
48 (Volga).
Astrakhan. — Af
Dfa.— Uf4 16 (Ufa).
KiNGDOK OF Pound.
Waraiw.— Warsaw 280 (Viatnla), Lodz 34 n. (Bznni), Cientocliov 13
iWartha), Kalisch U (ProEna).
Sadom. — Radom 3 (Radomka).
Lnblin.— LuBLis 22 (Biatriija).
Plock.— PLOca 17, Praga 8 {Vistula)
I Augnstowo.— SuwiLKi 17 (Szezupa).
Wlad
>, Kalna
West Rdsbia.
KOTDO.— KovNo 35 (NiPmen), Eoaaienjl2 (Dubiaa), SliivU 18(Kovno),
Vilna.— VnjJi 79 (Vaia).
Titebak,— Vitebsk 28, Polotsk 12, Dtoaburg 28 IDilua),
aradao.— GitoDNO 26 (NieineD), Slonim II (Shtshara), Brzesc-Litovski
El (Bog), BUlystock 17 (Bialy).
Mlmk.— Minsk 36 n., Bobmisk IS (Beradna), Pinsk 11 (Pina).
XoUleT.— MOHCET 40 (Dnieper), Gomel 13 (Soj).
Yolhyni*. — JiTOMia 3S (TetareT), Stare - Eonstantinov 12 (Slutcb),
Kreincnetii 10 (Irra).
Lntsk, Vladlniir.
Podolia.— Kaminietz 21 n,, Mohilev 10 (Dniester), Balla 15 (Kodj-ma),
Vinnitiall(Biig).
The Ukhaise ok LinLK Roasu.
TohernifOT.— TcHESNioov 11 (Desaaj, Nejiu 18 (Deter), Glutchov 11
(Kltveul, aiarodub 11 (Babintza).
Bereina, Butnitia.
KioT.— Kiev 74, Tcberkasi 20 (Dnispet), Vasilikhov 12 (Stugma), Bar-
ditchav 63 a. (TetBtev), Svanigorodka 11, Umaii 14 n. (Smiukaj.
Poltava.— Poltava 31 (Vorskla), Ereraantacbug 23 (Dnieper), Per^a*
lav 10 (Tnibeabl, Prilnki 11 (Sula).
Kobyliikl, Mirgorod.
KhaikoT.— Ehabeov 87 (EbarkoTa), Starabielali 13 n., Tsinm 1
ieU), Aklityrka 15 (Vorskbi), Lebadin 14, Snmj 13 (Paiol,
iper), Bielopol 12 s. (Sdm).
ft
South Bdsbu.
BeSBUabla.— ElBHEBAcl04|Buik affl. Doiaeter), Akerman 2d, Bender
23, Chotyn 19 (Dniaater), Kilia" 7, Ismail" 21 (Dacnbe).
Kbenon.— EaEBEOK 46 (Dnieper), Odesaa IBS (S. coast), Kicolatev
eO (Bug), Bobrinatx ID, Ellzatietgrad 35 (Ingnl).
Taurida,— 8™FKiiopOLl7(8alBhir),KBraim-l>aMrlB(Karask), BakcLl.
feni 11 D. (Alma), Sebaahipcd 3 {Tcbemajal, Beidiausk IS (Sea of Azov),
Kertcba (Stp. of YeaikalBli).
322 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Ekaterinoslav. — Eeaterinoslav 20 (Dnieper), Taganrog 24 (Sea of
Azov), Rostov 39, Nakhitchevan 11 (Don), NovomoskovriL 10 (Samara).
Don Cossacks.— Novo-TcHEBKASK 17 n. (Don).
Caucasia (Ciscaucasia and Transcaacasia).*
StayropoL— Stavropol 17 (Jachla), Kizliar 12, Mozdok 11 (Terek).
Ekaterinograd, Georgievsk.
Ter. of the Kuban. — Jeisk 17 (G. of Taganrog), Ekateriuodar 10
(Kuban).
Ter. of the Terek.— Vladi-Kaukas 4 (Terek).
Tiflis.— TiFLis 71, Elizabetpol 15, Akhalzikh 15 (Kur).
Erivan.— Erivan 12 (Zenghi), Alexandropol 15 n. (Arpar).
Shemakha. — Baku 13 (Caspian), Nukha 21 (Kur), Shusha 20 n.
(Aras).
Ter. of Daghestan.— Derbend 11 (Caspian), Kuba 11 (Kuba).
Kutais.— KuTAis 4, Poti (Rion).
Descriptive Notes. — Including the provinces of Transcaucasia,
European Russia contained, at the last census, six towns of upwards
of 1()0,000 inhabitants (St Petersburg, Moscow, Warsaw, Odessa,
Kishenev, Riga) ; nine bet. 100,000 and 50,000 (Saratov, Vihia, Kiev,
Nicolalev, Kasan, Tifiis, Tula, Berditchev, Kharkov) ; fifty-one bet
50,000 and 20,000; and ninely bet. 20,000 and 10,000.
St FetersbuTff, the capital of European Russia and of the whole Russian
empire, situated on both sides of the Neva, and on several small islands
formed by the river, was founded by Peter the Great in 1703. It is chiefly
built of wood, but the palaces and public buildings are massive stone erec-
tions. Its commerce is extensive with all parts of the world : the annual
imports are valued at £3,000,000, and the exports at £2,000,000; and
there is regular steam -communication with all the principal ports of
Europe. The low islands of the Neva are strongly fortified, and the city
is defended by the impregnable fortress of Kronstadt, the principal naval
station of the empire. zarskoi-Selo, the Versailles of Russia, contains
the summer residence of the Czar. Eevel or Beval, a strongly-fortified
seaport town, founded by Valdemar II., King of Denmark, in 1218, ms
taken from Sweden by Russia in 1710, and was at one tune thejneat
emporium of the Hanseatic League for the trade with Novgorod. fag9^
a large, fortified, and commercial city near the mouth of the Bttna, was
founded in 1200, and remained long one of the chief Hanseatio towna. It
contains several colleges, a public library, and many sdentifio eeteUiih-
ments. It exports largely flax and hemp. Doxpat contains a cdebnted
university, founded by Gustavus Adolphus in 1632. XtttftO, noted fat
its gymnasium and literary societies, has manufactures of linen and soan.
Helidngfors, the capital of Finland since 1819. is the teat of a unlwiOT
which has a library of 80,000 vols.; it has a harbonr suited for linMK^
battle ships, and defended by the strong citadel of Qvee^otyj teds te
timber, com, and fi.sh. Abo, the former capital of Finland, ud thtenfli;'
of its Christianity, was at one time a celebrated and flourir ' — *^ — "^
was almost* wholly rained by fire in 1827. ^-rVkmrn^
tant city in the north of Russia, was the only iM|ic^
vious to the founding of St PetersbuTK, after whk
* For the part of Armenia ceded to Busl
.lit it still remaiiiB the enii»iiura of tbe traJa with SiberiaaiiJ tlie iiortb-
em goventincnta. It ia stroiigly fortiHed, nail the seat of a depot of tlia
Russian militoiy mariDe. f etraiaTodBk has two eiiaGioiis docks, an im-
perial oaiLDDn-foniidiy, powder-jmlls, aiid mamifaoturea of fiilka. Tolog-
OA, n place of CDDsideTsble trade, with a large aanual fair. Korgorad, at one
b Peterstui^ m 17
iBTOBlav, an important nmnufacturing town on tbe Votga. Kostroma
and PskOT, eelebrated for the manufacture of nis*ia leather. Tver, an
important fortlHed town on the Volga, and on a canal which eetahliahea
a connection between the Baltic auil Caspian, poBsesses an estenaiva
trade. Ylodlmir, the capital of the Grand-Dncliy of Bossia from 11S7
to 1328, has a trade in fruit, and manufactures of lluen and leather.
Knrom and Tixa, with valuable iran-mines, the latter being among the
moat extensive in Russia. IT^ni-S'ovgDrod, at the confluence of the Oka
and Volga, noted for its great annual fair, the Ini^est in the world, which
lieglna on the Ist: of Jnly, and coatinues for eiEht weeks, at which time
the populatioQ amounts to a quarter of a million : merehnnta from all
parts of Enrope and Aeib attend, and the salea are valued at £22,000,000
sterling. Smolensk was a place of great Importance as earl; as the mnth
century ; was taken by the French army after the famous battle of Smo-
lensk, and a great part of it redni^ed to ashea. Viaama : here the French
aniiy was defeated by the Russians in October 1812. Kalnga, one of tha
consisting of muskets, cloth, oil, paper, cotton, leather, Jcc Tola, the
Birmingham of Russia, and the great seat of its iron manufactures ; hero
vast quantities of arms ore mads annually, giving employment to 20,000
panons. HOECow, formerly the capital of Russia, and still the second
city In the empire, greatly anrpasaee St Petershurg in tha eitant of it»
commerce, having water- communication with all the principal cities and
jHirta In tha empire. The view of the city from a distance excites the
ailiuiraCiou of all tiavellers ; the innnmerable towera, some with cupolas,
others rising in the form of minarets, and the many gardens and trees
intemiiied with houses, give it quite an Oriental appearance. Its manu-
factures of cottons, woollens, silks, and carpets are immense, employing
40,000 vpaavers, Moscow was founded in the middle of the twelfth cen-
tury ; was sacked by tho Moguls in 1233 and 1293 ; and burned by the
Russian general after his defeat by the Fnsnch army at Borodino, sept.
7, 1812, thus compelling Napoleon to commence hia disastrous retreat. J
Otel, tbe entrejiGt for the commerce between N. and 8. Russia. Jelrtl^J
liaa eitansive iron-mines in the vicinity. Konk and Torooetl are in^ 4
|iortant luanufactnring and commercial towna. TamboT, atronglj' fortk-fl
lied, has a college and a military school for noblai, and an activ *
trade. Perm has a ^reat trade in uietolUc productx, which are
extensively iu the naiglibonrhaod, and Is the principal emporiu
trade betwaen Russia and China. Ekaterinburg', on the Aslat
the Urals, is the ceutre of all tha great ironworka belonging to th
e inhabitants are lar^Iy engaged in mining, and in polishiuc
•thyats, jaspers, and other nrecions atones obtained in tl
|R]t> camea on great trade with Aatrakhau, ArkhAneel, and the cb
_ . . . . -Ton machinery. Kaisn, the great antrcL
a bvtweea Siberia Bokhara, and Euiopean Russia, i
_.^ t !■__ iiL. -J : — 1 eitablishnients. 8imbink ni-'
■>' Penta has manuf
vitiiel an found ii
324 POLITICAL GEOGRAPUV.
ity. SaratOY, a large, fortified, coTnmercial and manufacturing city on
the Volga. Samara, the capital of a goveminent of same name, con-
tains some ironworks, and a trade in cattle, sheep, and fish. Oren-
burg, a fortified city on the Ural, carries on an extensive trade with Bok-
hara and other i)arts of Central Asia. Astrakhan, at the mouth of the
Volga, is a thriving commercial city, with manufactures of cotton, sflk,
leather, and shagreen : from its favourable situation it has become the
entrepdt between Russia, Persia, and India. Ufa, cap. of newgovemmeDt
of same name, is a walled town with 16,000 inhabitants. Warsaw, the
capital of Poland since 1566, and the great entrepdt of its commerce, is
in point of population the third city in the empire, and contains the
largest Je\vi8h population of any city in Europe. Warsaw is strongly
fortified, is one of the pnncipal stations of the Russian army, and the
scene of unparalleled atrocities on the part of the Russians during the
Polish insurrection of 1863. Ealisch: near it the Poles defeated the
Swedes in 1706. Lublin has extensive cloth-manufactures and trade in
com and Hungarian wines : also three large fairs, each lasting a month.
Flock has manufactures of leather and skins, and an active transit trade.
Eovno is famous for its mead, has an active trade in com, and some linen-
weaving. VUna, the former capital of Lithuania, is a large town with a
considerable trade. Vitebsk, built of wood and enclosed by walls, has a
college for nobles, and manufactures of woollen cloth and leather. Grod-
no : here Stanislaus, last king of Poland, abdicated his crown in 1795.
Minsk carries on a large trade in timber, iron, and russia leather, and has
manufactures of woollen cloths and hats. Moghiley conducts a large
export trade in agricultural products. Jitomir has a flourishine trade
in woollens, silks, linens, salt, and agricultural produce. Eamimeti, a
fortified town, containing a theological seminary. Tchemigov, a ve^
ancient town, containing numerous buildings of antiquarian interest, ft
was taken by the Tartars in 1239, after an obstinate resistance, and again
by the Poles in 1617. Kiev, once the capital of Russia, is an ancient and
fortified city, with an arsenal and a nchly-endowed university. It is
noted for its ancient catacombs. Berditchev has great commerce, and
four annual fairs, at which goods to the value of £600,000 are disposed
of annually. Poltava or Pultawa contains a monument to Peter the
Great, who here signally defeated Charles XIJ. of Sweden, 27ih June
1709. Kharkov or Eharkova has numerous manufactures and eztensive
trade ; its fairs are among the most important in the Ukraine. in«ii— iii
has extensive manufactures of woollen cloths. Akennan, a fortified
town on the Dniester, has large exports of salt, obtained in the adjacent
lakes. Here was concluded, in lb26, a famous traaly, exempting the
Danubian provinces (Moldavia and Wallachia) from all bat a nominal
dependence on Turkey. Bender, taken and stomied by the Rnasiant in
1770 and 1809 : here Charles XII. resided for seven yean after the battle
of Poltava. Ghotyn, formerly an important border-unrtansi of the Toiki,
and frequently the object of stmggles between them and the Bunius.
Kherson, a fortified town, near the mouth of the Dnieper, and a place nf
great trade : near it is the tomb of Howard the philanthropist woo died
here January 20, 1790. Odessa, a strongly-fortified seaport citr, and
the great commercial emporium for the BlacK Sea and Daanbe tiafflo^ «u
founded in 1792. Its trade chiefly consists in the exportation of gmin
and in importing foreign goods. It has several hundred laige grain-iaaga*
zines, and is now the third commercial citv in the empba: expoHa '"*'
imports valued at £5,000,000 annually. It nairowlT ewapad or
ment in the late war with Russia. HfcolaXer, a lortmed town at ^
I
Buence of the Ingul and Bii^, the atation o[ the Russia GUck flea fleet,
uid, giucBthe dtistructiDD ot ^bastopol, the pniicipal naval arsenal of
Buuia in the Black Sea. BimferoDol ia ths reaidence of all the Kaeaiaa
ButhoritieB in the Crimea. Bakclu-Serai, near the Alma, a smaU riv^r,
DQ whoBB hanks the allied army obtained a brilliant victory over the
Itussisna, SOth Septembsr 1854. Bebutopol, at the month of the Inker-
•nnnii, fonnerly too Gihraltac ot Enisia, was fonnded by the Empresa
Catharine in 1787, and made the ehief naval arsenal for the Knssian fleet.
Imiaediatfily after Turkey declared war against Rnt^m, e. large BiiasiaQ
aqaadron issued from Seliaatopol and destroyed tliE greater portion of the
Tliriiiah fteet at Sbope, November 13, 1853, when lOOO Turks perished.
To avenge this ontr^e, and to check the nnmeroua encroachments ol
Kiuaia, sWland and fVance declared war against Russia in the following
Maich. l^ey sent one fleet to the Baltic, which destroyed Bomarsund,
ki, ; and another, together with a large military force, o^i^iitist Sebaalflpol.
Tha landing was effected at Old Fort, about thirty niitea south of Eupa-
"- "- — "- "- September 1SS4; and on the 2(lth Sepl«mber, 25th
, lovember following, were fought the memorable battles
Cf the Alma, Balaklava, and Inkemiann ; on the 8th September, 1865, the
Hslakoff Tower was taken, and the day following the Russians evacuated
Beteatopol, which was reduceii to a heap of ruins hy the allied army.
IkaterlnoBlav, founded in honoorof Cathaiiue II. of Russia, in 1787, has
mBunfactorea of cloth, and an Important annual wool fair. Taganrog,
ithe great outlet for the produce of the countries drained by the Don.
Stanopol, cap. of government of same name, and of all Ciscaucasia {which
consists of one government and two inoiganiaed tarritoriea), ia a forti-
fied biwn with some manufactures of soap and leather. Kizliar, a forti-
fled town on the Terek, with an active trade in wins. Jieek, capital of
the territory of the Kuban, founded in 1848, is a modem seaport town Qti
the Sea of Azov. Tlodi-Eankaa. a town and fortress at the N. entrance
of the Darisl Pafls, the principal pass of the central Caucasus. Tiflis,
formerly the capital of Georgia, and now ot Tranecaucitaia, ia well fortiHed,
and ia the great mart for the interchange of Russian, Turkish, and Per-
sian produce. Aldialtikh, a fortified town taken by the Buasiana ftoni
the Torks, with trade in silk and honey. EtItiui, formerly capital of the
Penian province Aierbijan, sltuatad on the great cnravan-routa between
Tiflle and Erooum, has a considerable transit trade. It has a etroug
citadel, taken by the Russians in ISOi, Alaiandropoli a strung fortress
at aD elevation of 6860 feet, where the cold is often intense. BaiU. capi-
tal of province Shemakha, bas the best harbour on the W. aide of the
Caapian ; ileiports vast quantities of naphtha and salt from the Apsheron
pfluloiula, Within 10 m. of this town is Atash-ja ("sacred Same"), tha
place of nil^mage of the fire-worshippers of Asia. Bere the soil it, im-
pregnatBd with sulphur and inflammable gas. Berbend, a place of great
atrengtb and importance, being tituated at the entrance of a defile iu tha
Caucams, called by the ancients the Albanian Gates.
Cams, PanlnanlttB, anfl IBlanilB.— Zelania, N. of Novaia 2emli« ;
_ : " r, on either side of the entrani-e to the White Sea ;
lanpo Head, S.W. of Finland; DoiQeaaes, N. of Courland; Kiu-
a Point, S.W of Teurida ; Cheraonese, S. of the Crimea ; Ap-
Dn, the E. eKtnentity of Mount CancnsOB. The only importuit
Sheraokhovskaia. b-t tha While Sea and the G. o(
326 POUTICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Sisters, 10* N. of Norway; Kolguev, between Vaigatch and Cape
Eanin ; Solovetskoi group, in the White Sea ; Ahmd group, S. W.
of Finland ; Eronstadt, near the head of the Gulf of Finland ; Dago,
Oesel, Worms, Nuko, and Moen, W. of Esthonia.
Seas, Onlfti, and Straits. — Eara Sea, N.£. of Arkhangel; Vai-
gatch Str., bet Vai^tch I. and the mainland; Earskaia Str., bet
Vaigatch and Novaia Zemlia ; Tcheskaia G. and White Sea, in t^e
N. of Arkhangel ; Varanger Fiord, bet. Arkhangel and Finmark ;
the Baltic, bet Rnssia and Sweden ; G. of Bothnia, bet Finland
and Sweden ; G. of Finland, bet. Finland and Esthonia ; G. of Biffi,
bet. Esthonia and Courland ; Black Sea, bet Russia and Asia Minor;
G. of Odessa, S. of Eherson ; G. of Perekop, N.W, of the Crimea;
Sea of Azov, bet. Taurida and territory of the Euban ; Str. of Eertch,
uniting the Black Sea and Sea of Azov ; Caspian Sea, separating
Russia from Persia and Independent Tartary.
Monntalns. — Russia is the least mountainous country in Europe ;
for though two immense mountain-chains skirt its K and S.K fron-
tiers, the latter containing several summits greatly loftier than Mont
Blanc, the whole of the interior and west consists of one enormous
plain, which extends from the Arctic Ocean to the Black Sea, and
from the Baltic to the Caspian, with the single exception of the
Valdai Hills, at the sources of the Volga.— (See under ** Europe,"
p. 70.)
The Valdai Hills, in the government of No^rod, divide the waters
flowing into the Baltic from those entering the Gstspian. Highest sum-
mit, between Ostashkov and Valdai, 1100 feet
The Ural Range, separating European Russia from Siberia, and the
basins of the Petchora and Volga from that of the Obi, Reckonine: as
is usually done, from Orenburg to the Arctic Ocean, they traverse 18^ of
latitude ; but as they in reality commence near the Sea of Ajal, and have
an insular prolongation in Vaigatch and the two islands of Novaia Zemlia,
they extend over 30° of latitude, or 2000 English miles. The highest
summits are the following : — Eoiyak-Ofski (lat 59''66'), 6397 ft.; Obdorsk
(lat 67°), 6286 ft.; Taganal (lat. 65° 20'), 3692 ft The Urals nowhere
attain the limit of perpetual congelation, and are usually of very modcnrate
elevation. They are covered wiui dense forests, and are rich in gold, pre-
cious stones, and other valuable minerals. The mountain-passes are not
remarkable ; the onlygood carriage-road leads from Perm to Ekaterinburg.
The Caucasus. — This vast chain, the loftiest in Europe, extends from
Cape Apsheron, in the Caspian, to the Peninsula of Taman, between tiie
Black Sea and Sea of Azov, being a total distance of 760 miles. They
separate Europe from Asia on the S.E., and the basins of the Euban and
Terek irom those of the Kur and Rion. Mount Elburz, the culminating-
point of Europe, 18,571 ft. ; Mount Eazbek (Ion. 44' 2O0, 16,528 ft.;
elevation of line of perennial snow, 11,000 ft Cultivation of grain extends
from 7000 to 8000 ft. The existence of glaciers is uncertain. The range
is covered with timber to a great height. The north side is abrupt anl
precipitous, but the south side descends by a silcc»»3ion of terraces. The
Caucasus contain no active volcanoes, but they are frequently "risited Inr
earthquakes. They consist mainly of crystalline rocks ; while the prised
pal mmerals are copper, lead, iron, sulphur^ and coal.
The only iloKHlaui-paiies practicatla for cnrrisRes are— The Dsriel
Pass, from MoBlok ta Tidia, by tha vaEoy ot tlie Terek, 8000 ft. high ; and
the Paas of Derbenil, ou the eiist coa^t.
The ifotoitni** ^ the Ctimea are a mere prolongation of Moiutt Cau-
casus : cuUninating-point, Tchatir-Dagh, 5000 ft. high.
Etrer-BoaliiB. — The river-syEtem of Kuasia belongs to I distinct
riVEr-bflBins— viz., those inclining to the Arctic Ocean, the Baltic,
the Black Sfa, and the Caspian. The two former are the least
pxtensive, althoneh possessinj:; the greater number of rivers, the
principal of which ore the Petchora, Mezen, Dwina, Nova, Dtlna,
and Niemen. The two latter are represented by the Dniester.
Dnieper, Don, Knr, Volga, and Ural. These 12 basins comprise j
of the area of Russia, and B7 ont of the 71 capitals, or nearly i of tha
entire nnmber. Three haaina {Neva, Dnieper, and Volga) contain
S9 capitals, or about f of the whole, and drain en area of 822, 000 gq.
r i of the area of R
I
miles, being considerably o'
the Volga alone is 527,000 aq. miles. — (For nm uj-hla ui me uiuer
baeina, see pp. 72-76.)
TaUaoraivawandTowm.— In the folio wini; table 168 rivers are
enumarated, 33 of which are principal rivers, entering tlie sea imme-
diately, the remainder being their affluents ; and the total number ot
towns exceeding 5000 inhaliitatits, contained in their basins, is S20.
Bmins iiicUtied to thi Arctic Ocean.
..Krooauiatn., aiPETEiia-
I VftlUoT (L. NovGOitoii.
Lwat,'. , . .S(nrafii.JI«M!
"■- l.,....K*fioi7i,n.
L One- PEiHOiATOuai
.an..,
VeUkaJa,....!
A, Dniisbnrg.Polutili,
Torcppa, Toni(leca.
[ndao, - Qoldxngej
JLemon, Meme!, TllsJt, Kovso,
Gbocso.
SUWILKL
DubiM. Rasaienr.
H.B. —For [he Freg9l, VIstolB, A
828
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Biuins inclined to the Black Sea,
Rivers. Towns.
Dniester Akennan. Bender, Mo-
hilev, Eaminietz, n.,
Chotyn, Sambor.
Baik, KiSHENAU.
Sered, I TamopoL
Zelota, I.... Brezezany.
Bistrica, ....Stanislawaw.
Tissmanicka^Drohobicz.
Co. of Kherson, Odessa.
Bug, Nicolalev, Vinnitza.
Ingul, I Bobrinetz, Elizabet^n'ad.
Smioka, 2.. .Svenigorodka, Uman, n.
Kodyma, . ...Balta.
Sab, I Lipovetz.
Row, Bar.
Dnieper Khebson, Alexandrovsk,
Ekatebinoslav, Ere-
mentschug, Tcherkasi,
Kiev, Hohilev, Smo-
lensk, Dorogobusk.
Samara, I ...Novomoskovsk, Pavlo-
gradt n.
Yorskla, I ..KohyliaM, Poltava,
Akhtyrka.
Fsiol, I Lebedin, Sumy, Miropo-
lU, Obaian.
Khorol, . . . Khorolf Mirgorod.
Sula, 2 PrUukL
Trubesh, {..Perejaslav.
Stugma Vasilikhov.
Desna, {....Kiev, Tchernioov,
Berezna^ n., Sosnitza,
Brianek.
Oster, Z...Nojin.
Seim, 2....Bielopol,n.,i2]/28A;,KuRSK
Eleven, Glutchov, n.
Sudost,... Pofcar.
Babintza, Staj-odub.
Nerussa, { Trubtchevsk, Dmitrovsk.
Sieva, { Sievek.
Sae;ja, { . ..Brianek^ KarcUchev.
Teterev, .. ..Jitomir, Berditcliev, n.
Pripet, Mozyr, Pinsk, n.
Rivera.
Tottnu.
Slntch,. . . . Staro-KonstantinoT.
Styr, LtUtk^ Bro<ly.
Irva, .... Eremenetz.
SoJ, 2 Gomel, TcherikoVt
Mstistavl.
Iput, l....Stiraj.
Ostr, I ....Roelavl.
Berezina, ...Bobruisk, Minsk.
W. Co. Crimea, Eupatoria.
Alma, Bakchi-Seral, n.
Tchemaya, .... Sebastopol, Inkermaim.
S. Co. Crimea, Balaklava, Kaffa,
S. of Yenikaleh, Eertch.
Salgbir, Simfebopol.
Earask, .... Earasu-bazar.
Sea of Azov, . . Berdiansk, Mariop o /«
Taganrog, Azov.
Don, AzoVf Nakhitchevan,Ros-
tOV, NOVO-TCHBBKASK,
n., L^>edian.
Manitcb, {..StaroT-Tcherkask.
Egorlik, I Stavbopol, n., ou the
Jachla.
Aksai, Novol-Tcherkask.
Donetz, Starobielsk, n. , Isium,
VoUchanak, Bielgorod.
Bakhmuta,£aJl;Amut.
Oskol, { . . Novoi - Oskol, 8 1 a r o T-
OskoL
Eharkova, Ehabkhov.
V<ldi,....Zolotchev.
Eorotcha, Korotcha.
Medviditsa, IPetrovsk.
Bitiug, I.... Bobrov.
Vorona, I.., Voboketz, (Tsmany n. ,
Lipetsk, Eozlov
Sosna - Bis- Jelelz, Livny.
trala,
Metscha, .,,Jefremov.
Euban Ekaterinodar.
W. Co. Circas- Anapa, PitzuTidra, Svik'
sia, um-Kaleh.
I Bion EuTAis, Poti,
Batine inclined to the Caspian,
Eur T I r L 1 8, 5Ae?na*o, n.,
Elizabetpol, n., Akhal-
zikh, n., Nukha, n.
Aras Shusha, n., Ebzroum, n.
Eara-Su,.. J.rda5tt (Persia).
Vei^sh, I Shnsha.
Eotur, .... Ehoi (Persia).
Mahou,... .Bayozid (in Turkish Ar-
menia).
Zenghi(L. Erivan.
Erivan),
c
Arpar or Alexandropol, n., Eais.
Ears, I
Alazon, i ,.,Telavi.
W.Co.Caspian,BAKU,DERBEND,TARKi,li.
Euba Euba, Kukfot.
Sulak AkhtdgOj Kwraita.
Terek, Eizliar, Mozdok, Ikaiet
Volga Astrakhan, TeA^mof-
yair, Dnbovka, JEohhw*
o/im, Saratov, Wolguc,
E3iTalinsk, Syzran,
Sahara, Simbibsx, Ka-
8AN, Mwrathkino, Ku-
Ki-NovooROD, KoexRO-
XA, JaBOSIiAT, Bf-
Unzk, U^toh, Tna^
fitorttao, BdiiT, Oi>
ttthkor.
Tchlatopol, KoBgout, B,,
Wcr<ta,'sitopli..'
Vlatks,.
com.:.
Bars.
.Pkbh, Knineli.
Nn.Tl.I...SBrpnr^tinv.
AIMjt-.i
/•oMAinW.
ProHo, 1. .BoroTjt, Vcn^ja,
Su«igii.8aniDsk.
Lmhi,. .Jrafoi-JarDi.'aciri.
Ola,
.SijBi-NovnoHoo, /"acij-
8hisdrB,i Shl9dr..
«, jWbt™, Jf<fan*i,
Vlasma, IVtaima.
Jgtai™, Ksalmov,
Ul-.77...Tu.^.
llIASAN, Eolomnii, Sec-
KoitTonis, IKoemoHi, OalUcli, d.
pnctaoT, Kaluqi, BU-
Un. BDlihBv, n., Mi-
Shekm»{L."iKiioar«fr'.
HbIo),
Kutcba
n,l
Duhait ..TmiWirf.
HmK.
Tiertia, ( ..TVin, TorBhob.
aoluha.
.Kratna-SM^k. Nijni-
Tbm, i .. ..VlBhnel-Vniotchok.
tdkes. — Russia iil)oaii<la in lakes, more cspooiallj in tlie north-
wefltem provinces. In general thoy arrangB theniaalves in cluatars
around take l^doga, the largest freah-water lake in Enrope (area
7150 Bq. ni.), and, along with it, discharge thsir snrpliia watara into
the Ouff of Finland, For a fnll liat of the lakes of Riisaia and of tho
rivers that drain them, see p. 78. Of salt-water Lakes, tha Caspian
is by far tbe largest in the world, having an area of 178, 866 sq. m. ; and
a tbis ia probably but a small part of the area it occupied il
Continsntai Streams.
CUmaita.— The watershed inclining to the Arctic Ocean is much
colder than in carresponiUng latitudes in Scandinavia, the surface of
alal^ portion of it being constantly frozen, notwithstanding the
oontmna] presence of the sna for many weeks' duration. Beyond
the arctic circle mercury freezes in the month of September. Erau
at St Petersburg (lai 6B° 6ST tbe thermometer sinks in January to
22° below zeru; while in July it rises to 90° ; mean temperature,
38*.7 Fahr. South of lat. 68" the mean temperature varies from
40° to S5° I the winters are muah shortei than on the northern slope,
but almost equally severe, while the Bummsrs are long and hot.
Notwithstanding these striking extremes of temperature, the climate
of Bnssia is favourable to health ; diseases are not commau, ami
bntnan life very frequently attains to its maximum length. Aunoat
fait of rain at St Petorsburg, 16 inches ; number of rainy daya, 171.
ICL the basin of the Volga tue rainialL amounts tu only IS iuL'hea.
330 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
mainly due to Sir Roderick Impey Murchison and his coadjutors.
For the particulars, however, we must refer to the ** Geology of
Europe," p. 79.
Minerals are numerous and very valuable, especially in the govern-
ments of Perm and Orenburg, on both sides oi the Ural Mountains,
which are richer in valuable minerals than any other mountain-system in
Europe. Numerous mines of gold, platinimi, copper, magnetic iron,
and salt are wrtmght, giving employment to a large and flourishing popu-
lation. In Perm alone 100,000 persons are employed in mining operations.
The greatest mineral wealth of the chain is on the eastern side, between
lats. 5i° and 60** ; but the western side famishes marl, gypsum, lime-
stone, sulphur, and copper. Iron abounds in the southern provinces.
Coal is deficient in the Urals, but prevails exteusively in southern Poland,
and, on the Oka, is found associated with iron. Lignite and brown-coal
are found in the Crimea. In 1844 enormous deposits of coal were dis-
covered in the government of Moscow ; while the coal-field on tiie Donetz,
100 miles in length, has long been celebrated. Amber is found in Poland
and Lithuania ; iron, lead, sulphur, arsenic, nitre, in Finland ; salt and
alum in many places : diamonds of small size, and other precious stones,
in the Urals.
Botany and Agriculture. — Russia is wholly included within
Schouw's first and second phyto-geographic regions, which are,
for the most part, separated by the arctic circle. The first, or
farthest K., is the home of the arctic alpine flora, described under
** Europe," p. 81. The second embraces all the rest of Russia and
Central Europe (see p. 82). The botany of Russia has not been
fully investigated, and we cannot yet state how many species of
plants it embraces. Finland, however, is said to contain abiout 1000
flowering plants. The most peculiar feature of its botany is found in
its immense natural forests, which cover about 2-6ths of its entire
surface. These abound chiefly in the central districts, between 52"
and 60° lat., and are of most essential value to the inhabitants,
aflbrding fuel, shelter from the biting winds, and numerous useful
articles, as timber, pitch, tar, turpentine, and potash. The trees
which most frequently occur are the pine, Scotch fir, and other
coniferous trees. The northern limit of the coniferse •passes through
the N. of Lake Imandra in Lapland, Cape Sviatoi, and the confluence
of the Petchora and Ussa. The largest forest in Europe extends from
the Mezen to the Onega, and covers an area greatly larger liian the
?>ritish Isles. The oak extends as far N. as Abo, Novgorwi, Vladimir,
Simbirsk, and Orsk ; the vine to lat 474° » the beech to a line
drawn from the mouth of the Vistula, south-eastward to the month
of the Terek ; the olive and orange refuse to grow in any part of
European Russia except the Crimea, in the southern valleys of
which the vine and mulberry, the olive, fig, pomegranate, and orange,
all flourish in the greatest profusion.
Over the whole empire agriculture is in its rudest state ; the soil is
various, but generally excellent ; and greatly more com is raised than is
required for lome consumption. The upper basin of the Volga is the
most fertile part of Russia; and the governments of Nyni-l^vgoiod»
Penza, Easan, and Simbirsk may be denominated the granaiy of the
empire. Here the ediI conskta of n rich bki^k moiild of deesyeJ
Tegetahle matter, and is of siirpiising fertility. The Ukraiue ia aim
very fertile, and enports enormous quantitica of wheat. Forests cover
a great part of the eurface of the Polish and Baltic provinces, but the
former produce cattle and great quantities of com. Kasan ia level
and fertile, abounding lit com and foreata of oak. Southern Russia
uid As1J^BkhaQ consist chieBy of iltppfi, or immense deserta, which are
divided by the Don into two regions ; the high steppea, lying westward,
are charocteilaed by the absence of trees, and by foug coaraa graaa and
wild-flowers in spring and early aummer, but as the heat increases, they
asBume the appearance of a sunburnt waste. The low ateppes to the E.
are much more sterile, having a saline, sandy soil, interspersed with
intensely salt lakes. The steppes are inhabited by nomadic tribes,
who keep large flocks of camels. The vast r^aa extending bom tJie
Arctic Ocean to lat. 64° is a swamp in summer, ajid is covered with ice
for nine months in the year. The grains mast generally cultivated are
rye and oats, the former being the principal article of lood used by the
inhabitants. Rye eirtenda to lat. fis", harley to 67°, oats to 62°, wheat
to eO°, millet to B5% maize to 48° ; while rice ia cultivated only in
Transcaucasia. The northern limit of the cereala ia marked by a line
passing N. of lakes Enara and Imandra, and S. of the town of Mezen,
meeting the Urals in lat. 60°. The extent of land under cultivation
bears but a small proportion to the whole area of the country. Hemp
and flax are chiefly cultivated on the upper Volga ; tobacco in the
Ukraine ; the vine in the Crimea, Odessa, Caucasia, and the lower baaina
of IJis Don and Volga ; and rice, silk, cotton, madder, melons, pomegran-
ates, and even the sugar-cane, in Transcaucasia.
Zoology. — So accarate statistics have been fnmished of the fanna
any more tlian of the flora of Russia, Dotwithstanding the solid
foandatioDs for both departments of knowledge laid by the illiis~
trious PallsB ; but it is interesting to know that the isothenn of 41°
Fair, (which divides Northern from Central Europe, and which
passes tbroogiiTrondhjem, Stockholm, Kaluga, Penia, and Orenburg)
has on the H. side of ii 31 species of camivora, 212 birds, 10 reptiles,
and 24 cetacea. In the higher latitudea the reindeer is a source of
■wealth : the dreary regions of Novaia Zeinlia are treijuented by the
great white bear, which seldom paaaes beyond the limita of perennial
snow; the bison is found near the sources of the Karew ; in the
ntirthern forests there are elks, several species of deer, hares, and wild
hogs. The wild animals that are hunted for their skins are very
nnmerons, as bears, glul;tons, badgers, wolves, foxes, martens, pole-
cats, weasels, ermines, otters, squirrels, and marmots. !□ the steppes
are found wolves, foxes, wild bogs, wild asses, wild horses, and other
cattle. The domestic animals of England are found in most parts of
Jtnaaia. Horses are very numeroos in the central and southern pro-
vinces, as also black cattle and sheep of varions species ; camels and
bofialoea in the ateppes, and dromedaries in the Crimea. Bees are
tOimd wad in the forests, and the silk-worm succeeds in the south,
StlmoBiaplir.— Tho people of European Bnssia, thoagh broken
-pinto a great number of distinct nations, all belong to two great
Kjliviuons of the human family— the Caucasian and Jlongolisii.
332 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
The first of these divisions is almost exclusively represented hy the
Sclavonians, who embrace nearly nine-tenths of the entire population.
The principal subdivisions of t^e Sclavonic race, within the limits of
Russia, are the Russians proper, the Poles, the Letts, and the Lithuanians,
of which the first mentioned are by far the most numerous and wide-
spread. These occupy the central and most fertile provinces ; the Poles
are for the most part confined to Poland and West Russia ; and the
Lithuanians and Letts to the Baltic provinces. The second grand divi-
sion is represented by the Finns, Samoiedes, Tatars, and Calmucks. Of
these the Finns are the most numerous, amounting to upwards of
2,000,000. The Samoiedes are few in number, and are confined to the
government of Arkhangel. ITie Tatars inhabit the country north of the
jBlack Sea and the river Kuban, and are nearly as numerous as the Finns ;
while the Calmucks are confined to the lower basins of the Don and Volga.
In addition to these there are up^-ards of a million of Jews in European
Russia, and about a third as many Germans.
Lanffuofje. — The languages spoken in European Russia are even mora
numerous than the races that inhabit it ; but, in common with the latter,
they are nearly all reducible to two great families — ^the Indo-European
and Fiuno-Tartarian. The nations of Sclavonic blood speak either the
Russian, or one or other of its cognate tongues — the Polish, Lithuanian,
and Lettish. The Finno-Tartarian family embraces the Finnish, Samoiede,
and Greorgian of Mount Caucasus ; while the Wallachian, spoken in Bess-
arabia, is a Greco-Latin tongue.
Religion,, — The Sclavonians, and more especially the Russians proper,
belong to the Greek branch of the Eastern Church; but the great
majority of the Poles are Roman Catholics. A considerable portion of
the population of Finland and the Baltic provinces are Protestants of the
Lutheran type ; the Tatars and Circassians are for the most part Moham-
medans : while the Calmucks are generally Buddhists. The emperor is
the head of the Greek Church, which in doctrine and rites closely approx-
imates to the Roman Catholic Though other religions are allowea to be
professed, the amount of toleration enjoyed is of the narrowest possible
description. Any attempt at propagating opinions at variance with those
of the national Church, or of proselytising any of its adherents, is pun-
ished with imprisonment, and for the thircl offence with exile to Siberia ;
or the convert is condemned to loss of property, and to detention for
life in a convent.
Ediication. — Russia is the worst educated country in Europe, there
being only 1 out of every 84 of the population at school, while in Ger-
many the proportion is about 1 in 7. Tiie schools are under the surveil-
lance of the priests, and religious instruction constitutes the basis and
sum of all school training. Public establishments for the pursuit of
science are numerous, and are liberally endowed by tJie Government—
the most celebrated of them being the "Academy of Sciences** at St
Petersbuig. There are now only six universities — viz., those of P^pa^
Moscow, Kharkov, Kasan, St Pe'tersbtirg, Kiev — ^the universities ofmlna
and Warsaw having been suppressed by the Government.
Llteratnre. — The literature of Russia is extremely meagre, and
confined within narrow limits. The only branches of sdence tliat
have been cultivated with success are — their own national history,
topographical descriptions of foreign countries (chiefly Aaiatic), and
philological investigations relative to the Sclavic langoagos, in wluflh
they have displayed great ingenuity and perseverance. Fbiloeopfaji
EtTMA. SSI
A the diHerent 'branoheE oF mLtoral acienoe, liare, tD] Tecmtly, liesn
^ fntii>Ti uflgleoted. AEtTonon!;, hmiBVer, is prasecutpd with the (^reateEt
■ncoew, eapeciallT at tbH great and BjJendidlT aquipped nationiil 6b-
■erratoiy of PulkovB (fonnded in 18361, where W. and Otto Strove
have highly dietinmiished tLeniselTes. Thr foUnwing are n tew uf
the most duitingnislied names in JLuaaian literature : —
HistciST: The TBUenble NeBtot, Loni }05fl, laid, by Ids ' Ammla/tlii-
Michael LamanDsaf, liom 1731, ieregardi^d
an BolBvic history. , „
t litentuic ^vicholal Kflr^"i*n'^i author ol tl
Btiitiire,' extending tc the nsign of ti^Jion
Bamanot!, died ia 1836 ; iin4 V'l
Great.' PoEntr : Uabnel Dmahiiyi
gold. OD white 1
', autior of a ^Life ol Peter the
, . bom iim, oelehnitDd far hiE iui-
Deity,' whii^ hu Imen tntualiLtud iulo nuuiy fioropcan
DEfi. The ChineH Einiieror lias it jirinted in ieaen of
itin, Bud )mn|: up in liia paluic. Alexmidar Puahldn,
. . . ETEtttBst jjoet ROBBia lias produced {hom irSH).
pHTU>uiGi: AlaxondcT VuiitakaE, the lint Sclavii; Bciiolar in Europe ;
Kowalorgfci, dietingni^edfor hie iaiowledgK of the UnnmUan iBngnages;
BichDOTtD, the best Chinese Buhuiar hi EoEiiia ; SenkowEki, tliB celebnLted
QnuitBliiit i Bulial^xk, aatlior of the fauiaus ' History uf l^e Bdevic
Ijnpiufi- nid Lituratnre :' Merslaki^ the first litutaty critiE in BuBEia ;
Dobtiv^j, aBuneiiriui, author of 'Gronuusr of tlieSdavauicLanpagee;'
and the celebrated FallaK, a (itiniuin liy Ijirth, who was not only a dis-
tingoished DntucaliBt, aiid histOTiRU of the Mocguium iiutiocii, hot aJiiD a
labOTiona and indefaCijialile ]jlulologiBt. Ky comnumd ol tlie Empress
GBtiunne, he underluok a eompomtive vocahuliiiy of ail the languages of
^w WOTld, two volumaa of wMch were jjulilished at Bt pBtersburg, in
ITBB. Theyconlain^SS words, iu 200 liuigUBges of Asi&BudEurope. A
thiid volome, which never apjieared, was intended to embrace the
laugDiEeE of Africa audAiuHrica. Theological Lir£SATCEE : Xbeopboii
ViSarrttdi. OEoally nvled the Bnssian Chrysostom, died 1756 ; Platou
Levshin, the most prodnGliTe of the eocleaiastual wrilars ; AnastnMUS Br»-
lonofeki vho talus the firat place niuong Kuntuui pulpit orators. Pnoei!
WsmSKS *;>0 Sovklibte : Zagoskiii, Gretsch, BestucheS, Mamniefi^
Batonhkoff, Sncmelikin, Odojeweky, Bulgaiiii. Politics akd Statis-
tics : M, L. de Tecobaiaki, author of ' ConunentadeB on the ProdDCtrfa
FoTcee of Bubbib,' 1856. Pbtsical Science : Tenner, Stmve, Winuedie,
flsd many others.
Goventmant, Army and BaTy. ftc — The govennnont is id absolate
heri'ditarj monaridiy ; ail poWL-r, biilh iii Church and Stale, emanates
from the eni|H!rur, and m his dueiHioii all matters of importsnee must
lie Babniitted. He caiiaot, however, aafoly diaregard the laws, nor
the opiniona and wiabea of the nobiKty, who have greater politicnl
influence in Russia than in any other European eoautry. One half
of 1.11 the laod of the country ia in their puasession, but they have
•uffurcd u heavy loss by the ■ eeent emancipation of the serJs on Iheir
'"'iKt^E. The emperor is aided in all matteis that come under hia j
oiedlitte oognieance by a Privy Colmdl. SubordJiinte t
m nre foax great boards of odminiatratioQ — viz., the Impo
nnsil, lh« Directing Seoato, the Holy Synod, and Uie CuuimU .^
334 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
greatest in the world. In 1868^ the regular army amounted to 780,000
men and officers, besides an irregular force of 177,000 light cavalry, con-
sisting for the most pcurt of Calmucks and Cossacks. The regular anny
consists of eight nand divisions — ^viz., the Guards, the Armv of the South,
the Army of the West, the Army of Lithuania and Poland, the Corps of
the Caucasus, the Finland Corps, the regiments of the military colonies,
and the army of reser\'e. The Navy, in 1868, consisted of 26/ steamers
and 29 sailingvessels. These were manned by 60,230 men, and carried
3749 guns. This force was divided into two principal fleets — ^the Baltic
Fleet and the Black Sea Fleet. Besides these there were 24 irondada
and a fleet of steam-rams, carrsring 149 guns, building at St Petersburg
and Nicolalev. A great number of the ships composing the Black Sea
fleet were sunk by the Bussians in the harbour of SebastopoU in 185^ to
prevent the Anglo-French fleet from entering. The Baltic fleet, in like
manner, protected itself behind the fortifications of Kronstadt. The army
is maintamed at a comparatively small expense, and both army and navy
do not cost more than £24,000,000 annually. The Public Debt, which in
1853 amounted to £63,537,000, had in 1869 increased to £203,000,000.
In the same year the Reven%be of the empire amounted to £80,846,000,
and the Expenditure to £72,606,000.
Commerce and Manufactures. — The commerce of Russia is chiefly
internal No country in the world can so well dispense with a
foreign commerce. The empire is a world to itself, and wants almost
nothing with which the wider world can supply it. It is the only
country that produces train-oil in abundance on one of its coasts,
and olive-oil, in scarce less abundance, on another, — ^that can ex-
change its native seal-skins and ermine furs for its native silk and
cotton, — that makes gin from its barley and rye, brandy from its
wine-lees, and rum from its sugar,— that barters its cranberries,
gathered on the wastes of Siberia, for its pomegranates reared in the
Transcaucasian provinces, — and that, while it mixes up its barley-
bread, in one of its districts, with the inner bark of the flr, makes
its cakes of unimported rice in another. Its commerce is greatly
facilitated by its innumerable navigable rivers, and its vast and ex-
cellent system of canals, by means of which its four seas are con-
nected together in many directions, and a complete system of inland
navigation established, the centre of which is Moscow. A great por-
tion of the internal trade is transacted at annual fairs, the most re-
markable of which are those of Nijni-Nov^orod, Berditchev, Kursk,
and Lublin in Poland. The foreign trade is conducted by means of
caravans, which periodically leave Orenburg for Asia, and Perm for
Siberia. The chief seaports are — St Petersburg and Riga on the
Baltic, Odessa on the Black Sea, Astrakhan on the Caspian, and
Arkhangel on the White Sea.
Manufactures, — Owing to the sparseness of the population, the general
deficiency of coal, and other causes, Russia can never become a great manu-
facturing country ; but, since the time of Peter the Great, manniiacticras
liave made very considerable progress. Most of the articles used by the
peasantry are made in the villages, each of which is usually devoted to a
single branch of industry. The principal articles manufactured on a Ittge
scale are-linen, sail-cloth, cordage (the chief factories for which are MoMOW
and its vicinity), cotton, woollen, and worsted stuffis in mott of tbe T
ti3, and silk-spinQiiig at Moscow, whkti is reuomifld for its brocaJt
Bna^tduidsilveTemliraiileiies. Hard wore, cutlery, and Srearms, mee
tBiiBiveljr muinfactared at Nijni-Novgorod, Tula, and other places. B
'ailed r
Russia also bolda a distin-
malaciiitB (^en_ topper
goislied place in tiie maiiufo
on) sad of oraameutai glass ; wbiic Astrakliaa ia famans tor Its isinglass,
•bsgreen, and caviars,
Tha Ei^HirU, In 1872, were Talned at £50,000,000 sterling, and tbs
IiKi>ortia,t £65.600,000. The chief exports are com, tallow, hides, liemp,
flax, linseed, timber, tar, pitch, potash, russra leather, fnrs, wool, oil,
wax, honey, copper, iron, ptatina, cordage, and sail-datL. Great Britain
ia Hossia'a best customer, taking three-fonrths of her Hox and hemp.
thtBe-fonrtha of her tailow, three-fifths of her oleaginous graine, two-fifths
of her exported com, &c. The total value of her exports to the United
Singdom, in 1S73, amounted to £21,000,000 (or more than half of the
entire amount) ; while she received from us, in return, goods to the valna
□f£S,aOO,000, consisting chieHy of cotton stofTs and yam, machinery and
mill-work, hiudware, iron, wooileus, tea, lead, tin, together with lama
Jnantitiea of coal and salt. Tha mercantile marine ia small, and the
iieign trade ia principally conducted hy other nations. In 1S65, there
arrived In Russian ports 11,643 vessels ; cleared, 11,839, carrying
2,890,000 tons. Tlie priucijial imports are articles of colonial produce,
together with raw silk and cotton, manufactured goods, wine, indigo,
cochineal, and madder. Tea is Imported by the overland caravan-route
from China, and many other articles come in the same way.
Inlajiil QommnnlcaUDn.— The Roada are in general wretuhed, with
the exception of that from the capital to Moscow, nhich is said to
be the finest in the world. The condition of the roads, however, ia
of less importance, as they are covered with ice and snow for many
months in the year, when sledge- travelling is universal.
The Cbnab are very numerous, and of the highest importance. Amoiw
the principal may be mentioned :— 1. The Canal ^ Vithnei Vololtkai^
connecting the Twertza with the Msla, thus nnitlng the Baltic with the
Caspian, which, by this route, is 3200 miles distant, and yet the canal is
only 3 miles lon^. It is free &om ice from the middle of April to the end
of October, and la frequented by about 2000 vessels annually. Another
cawJ, Jotaing the Neva with the Volga, is the Canal qf TiiAsiK. 2. The
Cimal q/' £*bimt, uniting the Caspian ivith the White 8ea, 3. The
JIaria Canal, uniting a small river flowing into lake Bielo with another
flowing into Lake Onega — thus connecting (by the aid of So. 2) the Bal-
Hc, Caspian, and White Seas. i. The Ladoga Canal, and the iSiai and
Sva- CaJiali, form a navigable chain around tlie south and south-east
aides of Lake l^oga. Tliis is the most frequented of all the Russian
canals : it ia said that 25,000 Tesseis pass through its principal sluice an-
nually. Hailtmy communication is very limited, consideriuc the eitent
of the empire. In 1858, only 715 miles were completed; but m 1872 there
were lO.SOO milea open for tra,ffic The principal railways akeody executed
are : — The great line from St Feterabnrc to Moscow, 400 miles, with
hranchea to MUni-Novgorod, Kodov, and Orel ; and the line ftiim St
^ to Warsaw and Cnwow, with branches to Elga, Vitebsk,
I, sod K^igsberg ; and a line from Odessa to Balta, in Podolia. .
ere S1,S10 miles of lelegmpliic commonicatiniL
336 POLITICAL GEOGKAPHY.
SWEDEN AND NORWAY (SCANDINAVIA).
Boundaries. — The kingdoms of Sweden and Norway, now
united under one sovereipm, embrace between them the entire
north-western peninsiilii of Europe, usually called Scandinavia.
N., the Arctic Ocean ; AV., the Atlantic, North Sea, and Katte-
gat ; S., the Skager Rack and the Baltic ; E., the Baltic and
Finland. Lat. 55" 20—71" 6' N. ; Ion. 4* 50'— 31' 5' K
Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, on the east coast of the peninsula (lat. 59* 17',
Ion. 18" 3'X is nearly on the same parallel of latitude as Lerwick, GhristlMiia, St
Petersburg, Tobolsk, Mount St Elias (in X. -west America), and Cape Farewell (in
Greenland) ; and nearly on the same meridian as Spitsbergen, Danzig, Buda, Mos-
tar, Otranto, Qulf of Sidra, and Cape Town. Scandinavia is the lu^est penin-
sula in Europe, and, in common with nearly all the others, stretches oat in a
general southerly direction : extreme length, 1190 miles; greatest breadth, 490
miles. The )ieninsula is traversed, in the direction of its greatest length, by an
immense njountain-range, which, being confined to the side next the ocean, ^res
Norway a highly Alpine character ; while Sweden, or the eastern half, is in gene-
mi low and level ; but, towards the mountains, it rises in a succession of ter-
races, marked by cataracts in the numerous streams, which generally follow a
straight course towanls the Baltic, and frequently expand into long narrow
lakes. Coasts low and sandy on the eastern side, but deeply indented on thd
western by rock-bound inlets, called /2ord«, and lined by an innumerable multi-
tude of small islands, Coast-line, without including the inlets, about 8000 miles,
or one mile of seaboard to every 98 square miles.
Area and Population. — ^The area of the entire peninsula is 29S,918
sq. m., of which 123,297 belong to Norway, which is very little
larger than the British Isles ; and 170,621 to Sweden, which ia
nearly half as large again as Norway. In 1873 the united popula-
tion amounted to 6,061,000; that of Norway being 1,763,000, or
about half the population of Scotland ; and that of Sweden 4,298,000,
or one-fourth larger than the population of the latter country. Scan-
dinavia is thus the most thinly peopled countiy in Europe, having
only 20 persons to each sq. m.
Political Divisions. — Sweden is divided into three ItiTgd protfineu,
or for administrative purposes, into twenty-four Uins, and Norway
into six stifts or counties.
Sweden, Three Provinces.
Gothland.*— Gothenburg 62 (Gotha), Malmde 28, HeUngboocg 9^
* In Swedish, the vowels a, e, r, d, and 6 have the same Mnnds u In Gcnim;
as in Karlstad, Wener, Indals, MSlar, JSnkOping.
a = 0 in stone, as Abo, Lulea (O'boOf Lule-o).
o at the end of a syllable = oo in food, as Orebro (OKf-droo); in oUiar <
0 in not.
XI = 00 in food, as Umea (Oo'me-o).
y = German tJ, as NykOping (Niifcho-ping).
g and j before a vowel = y in you, as Gene, JOnkOpliig (FdtT^* ^*"
ki or kj = cA in church, as LinkiSping, Li]iXJQpIii& or U*
t — is^z&in German. All other consonaats m MmidB^ '
SWEDEN ASD NORWAY. 337
LasdekTona 7, Lund 11 n. {the Sonsd), Carkcruca 13, Kalmu' 9 (Ihe
Baltic), Nonktiping 22, Linkoping 8 (Motala), JUnkapiog 11 (Lake
Wett«r), Cliriatianatad 6 (Helge).
Brealand. — Stockholk 147, Wosleriis 6 (L. Mielar), Orsbro B (L. Hiel-
mai), Upedall, Dumemora (Sala), Fahlnn 5n. (Dal), Nyki^piDgG (K co.)
Borrliuid.— Bemosand 2 (Angermann), Guile 16 n. (Dot), SnndavBll G
(ludalit).
NORWAT, Set STlFTil.
Agenliniis.*— Chbibtiania 73, Frederickahiild 7 (Q. of GliilstlaDia),
DiamraBn 14 (Drammen), Fredsrickstodt B (GloramenJ.
Christiajiaani— Chriatiansaiid 11 (Tomsdals), StaTttrger 18 (BnkkB
Fiord), Mandal 3 (Skager Rack).
Bargen.— Bergen SO (Kore Fiord).
TrondhJBln.— (^Troniil'jeii or Drontheim 21 (Trondhjera Finrd), Roraas
4 (Glommen).
FotdUai— Tromsiia 3 (W. coaat), AlsUhong 1 (Wesaen).
FinmaTkeii.— Haumeifest 1 (Whals Island), Aitengaard 2 (Atten).
SescriptlTe Motea, — There are ODlfBixteealxiwnsintbe whole pen-
insala with more than 10,000 inbabitants, of which only seveD exceed
20,000 — viz., Stockholm, Chriatiaaia, Gothenbuj^, Bergen, MalmOe,
NorrkOping, Trondhjem; while Stockholm alone exceeds 100,000.
Sweden. — Gothenburg, the second city in Sweden both as regards
population and comnierce, has ahipbuildiiig docks, numerous manufac-
tarea, and a large eiport trade in herrings, iroQ, ateet, copper, and timber.
XalmM, a etrongly-Eortified manufacturing town on the Sound. Land,
a very ancient town, where the kinga of Scania were elected in the middle
a^, li the aeat of a university. Carlaeiona, by far the best naval eU-
tion in Scandinavia, baa a large export trade in metaia, potofib, and other
Baltic produce. EslmoT, famous for the treaty of 1S97, which united
the Idngdoraa of Denmark, Norway, and Sweden. Hoirkajing, s thriv-
ing mannfactoring tjiwn, noted for ita broadcloth. Llnkjiplng, an ancient
town, near wMeh was fought, in 15D6, Iha battle of Stangebro, in which
Sigismnnd was defeated b; hia uncle Charlea IX. Stockholm, V
of Sweden since the seTeutaenth oentury, and the chief commi
porium of Scandinavia, ia boilt partly on the mainland, and partly oB. ij
a number of ialanda on the strait oonnectiug Lake Mailar with the Baltia tm
the houaea are chiefly of brick or paintod wood, the Btreeta iinpaved, nai^.a
row, crooked, and duty, but the palace and aoma of the public buiMingan
"" very fine. It has numerona learned st"""" '"" ' -'-■^— ■-' -*"
1, Celsius, Bergmann, Sc
338 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
and Berzelins, were professors. Dannemora, the site of the lai^gest and
most valuable iron-mines in the world. FaJilim, with a great copper-
mine, which has been wrought for upwards of 1000 years. Gefle, (me <A
the principal towns in Sweden as regards shipping and commerce.
Norway. — Christiania, capital of the kingdom of Norway, finely situ-
ated at the head of a long narrow /Eoni on the south-east coast, is a small
city possessed of no architectural beauty, but the streets are straight,
broad, and well paved, and the environs are exceedingly picturesque. It
contains a university, a royal palace, the national arsenal, and various
educational and scientific establishments. Frederickshald, noted for its
strong fortress, in besieging which, in 1718, Charles XII. of Sweden was
killed. Christiansand. a trading seaport town, with shipbuilding docks.
Bergen, the commercial capital of Norway, and its most important fish-
ing-station, is well fortified, and is a station for a naval squadron : not-
withstanding its high latitude, the harbour is seldom frozen. TrOBdh-
jem, the ancient capital of Norway, and the place where its sovereigns
are still crowned, carries on an active trade in deals, dried fish, tar, and
copper. Boraas, noted for its extensive copper-mines. HammerfiBSt,
the most nortliem town in Europe (lat. 70" SSO> ^"d^ojs the light of the
sun, in summer, for two months without interruption. Altengiuiid, noted
for its raised beaches, which conclusively show that in the course of ages
the surrounding country has attained a greatly higher elevation turn
formerly.
Capes and Islands. — Cape Nordkyn, the most northern point of
the continent of Europe (lat. 71** 5'); North Cape, on the island
Mager5e; Statland, S.W. of province Trondhjem ; the Kaze, the
most southern point of Norway. Islands : MagerOe and Sor5e groups,
N.W. of Finmarken ; Tromsoe and Lofoden groups, N.W. ofNord-
land ; Vigten, Froyen, Hitteren, and Smolen, off the coast of Trondh-
jem ; (Eland and Gothland, S.E. of Sweden.
Gulfs and Straits. — ^Varanger Fiord and Porsanger Fiord, N. of
Finmarken ; West Fiord, bet. Nordland and the Lofoden Isles ;
Trondhjem Fiord and Romsdal Fiord, W. of Trondhjem; Sogne
Fiord and Hardanger Fiord, W. of Bergen ; Bukke Fiord, "W. of
Christiansand ; Skager Back, bet. Norway and Denmark ; the Kat-
tegat and Sound, bet. Sweden and Denmark ; Ealmar Sound, bet
Sweden and (Eland ; Gulf of Bothnia, bet Sweden and Fuland.
SnrflEkce and Mountains. — An immense mountain-range, known as
the Scandinavian or Norwegian Alps, traverses the western side of
the peninsula, from the Naze to the North Cape, the southern ludf
of it being confined to Norway, and the nortnem forming, for the
most part, the boundary between Norway and Sweden. Its total
length is about 1150 miles, with a breadth varying firom 200 miles
in the south to 60 in the north. The range consists of a series of
plateaux or elevated table-lands, separated here and there by deep
narrow valleys, and is very rich in minerals. It is usually dividea
into three sections — ^viz. :
Bardanger Field, in the south of Norway, separating the waters that
enter the Skager Rack from those that flow westward to the Atlantic :
SWEDES AND SOKWAV. 339
— ^'liBst auiniuit, Skagesliiestinden, tliB culrainating-point of Scaniliniirifl,
8670 feet (lat 61° Wj. Height of anoiv-linB in thia chun, 50GO feet,
Desn FUld, between Agershuus ^il Trondbjem, separatiD^ the basins
of the Glommen and Gotha from the Atlantic: highcBt annmiit, Sneehit-
ten, 7620 feet (lit. 62° SWl-
Ktolfii HouiUaim, between Norway and Sweden, forming the waler-
parting between the Baltic and the Atlantic : higheat aommi^ Sulitelma,
6200 feet (lat. 67° 3'). Height of anow-Iine on Sulitelmi^ 3500 feet. Tiie
total extent of countrT elevated above the anow-Une ia said to exteeA
SSOOaq. niilea.
Glaoiera, Ito. — The glaciers of Scandinavia are munerouB, tliough less
known thsa thoas of Switzerland. They are fonnd in three principal
groups— viz., a soutlieni, central, and northern gronp. The farthest
aoiith containa the Folgefond glacier, S.E. of Bergen (lat. 80°), wliicb is
the ficst glacier met with travelling northward ; and the Nygoaid and
Lodal glaciers, near Sfcagealbestinden.wMch in anmmerdiacharge 6,000,000
cubic tatboma of snow per day tuto the river Justedal. The second group
is in the Kiolen Monntsins : it includes Sulitelma, and is usually called
theFondal group. The last gronp, called JokulHtield, ia in the neighbour-
hood of Alteng^nl, and ia remarkable aa descending to the level of Iha
aea, into wldch it projecta aome of its niembera a conaiderablo distance.
The WATEHTiLLa of Scandinavia have long been celebraled. The most
remarliable is the Trolbatta Fall, on the Gatha. The river descends 1 1 2
f«et, in several succesaivs leaps, presenting a spectacle extremely grand,
the quantity of water being greater than in any other waterfall in Europe.
Tba other principal waterfalls in Norway are the Saipen, on tbeOlommen,
near Frederickatadt, 60 feet high ; the Rinkan Fos, formed by the Moan,
which issues from the mountain-lake of MiBs-Wasser, in the Upper Telle-
mark, and descends perpendicularly 60O feet; and the Vilnng-Fos, in
Beigen, which descends horn a height of 900 feet.
River-BailiiB. — These are all small, owing to the pecnliar con-
flguration of the country, and its being traversed by mountains and
elevated table-lands through itB entire lEngtll. There are no reliable
data for estimating the area of any o[ them, except the Glommen
(16,000 sq. m.) and the Gotha (17,000 sq. m.)
Lakes. — The lakes of Scandinavia are extremely numerous. In
ITorway alone there are said to be 30,000; but they are iienerally of
very limited extent Nearly one-eighth of the surface of Sweden is
oovered with lakes, some of them being of considerable m^^itade,
»s Wener, 2020 Bij. m.; Wetter, 710 bi]. m.; and Msjlar, 472 aq. m.
The largest lake in Norway ia Mioseu, 63 m. long by 12 m. broad.
Almost all the lakes of ScanillnaTia are on the eastern side of the
ramt monntain'cbain. In the basin of the G/omjnen is L. Mitiaen ;
OolJia, Wener, Foemund; Matala, Wetter; Mmlar, Mslar, Hiel-
inar ; Dal, Siljan ; Uiaea, Stor-Uman ; Skelefiea, Stor-Avan ;
Lviea, Stor-Lnlea ; Tornca, Tomea,
Tabl* of Riven uul Towns.— All the important rivers of the
peniDsnla take their rise on the eastern slope ot the mountains, aod
pursne a S.E. course to the Skager Rack nnd Kattegat (branches of
. the North Sea), or to the Baltic; while Uie W, slope ia traversed by
I mmerous luouutain torrents and by deejily -penetrating fiords.
340
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHT.
Bcuins inclined to the
Rivers, Totone.
Alten, BjLVMEBjrESTfAltengard.
WesHen Alstahouo.
TrondMem Tbondhjem or Dron-
Fior^ THEIM.
Snndal, Chrietiansund,
Kors Fiord, ..Bergen.
6akk6 Fiord, Stavanger.
Mandals, .... Mandal.
Torrisdals, . . . CHRiSTiANaAKD.
Nid, ArendaL
Skeens Elf, . . Skeen.
Lauven, Laurvig, Kongsherg.
Atlantic and North Sea.
Rivers, Toiuns.
G. of Chris- Frederlckshald, Freder-
tianla ickstadt, Chbistxavxa.
Drammen, . . Brammen.
Glommen, { Frederiekttadtt Roraas.
W. CO. Goth- Uddevalla, Halmstad.
land,
Gotha Gk>THXirBnRa^ Weners-
bora, Maileatad, Carl-
Clara, Caristad.
The Sound,. ..EeUingborgy Landskrona,
Land, MalniOe.
Basins inclined to the BdUie.
8. CO. Goth- Ystad, CarlsJiamn, Carls-
land, crona.
Helge, Christianstad.
KalmarBomidtChristianopely Ealmar,
WestervOc.
Motala, Link5ping, NorrkOping,
JOnkdptng.
L. Mselar and Stockholm, Westerds.
R. Arboga,
Sala, I Upsala, Dannemora.
Hielinar, . . . Orebro.
Dal Getlx, n.
Fahlnn, { . . Fahlnn.
Indals, SundsvaU, Ostersund
Angermann, . . HernOsand.
Umea (Tmea.
Pitea, PiUa,
Lulea, Lulea.
Climate. — Owing to its being nearly surrounded by the sea, Scan-
dinavia enjoys comparatively a very mild climate. On the western
side of the great mountain-chain it is milder than on the eastern
side, and greatly more humid. The snow-line is much higher than
in corresponding latitudes of other countries, and the cereals extend
much farther N. In Siberia the cultivation of grain ceases at lat
60°, while in Norway it extends to lat. 70". Even at the North
Cape the sea never freezes ; but the shallow and comparatively fresh
water of the Baltic and Skager Rack are generally covered with ice,
in winter, near the coasts. In the interior of Sweden the sammers
are very hot, and the winters extremely cold. Here mercury often
freezes north of lat. 61**, and snow covers the ground for nearly six
months in the year. Spring is almost unknown, and from eight to
twelve weeks usually suffice for sowing, ripening, and reaping the
crops. Owing to the length of the day and the great heat, barley
may be sown and reaped at Hammerfest within the space of six weeks.
The fall of rain on the west coast, where the mountains intercept the
westerly winds, usually amounts to from 70 to 80 inches, bat on the
eastern side it is much less (see p. 32).
Geology. — The most remarkable circumstance in the geolo^ of
Scandinavia is the fact that the whole peninsula, N. of lat. 58"^, ii
ascertained to be gradually rising at the rate of four feet in a oentnir;
while in a small district south of this there is acorres^ndinff mibA-
ence. Crystalline schists occupy five-sixths of the entire tiumee^ and
constitute the great mountain-chain. Granite is of oompaiativelT :
occurrence, except on both sides of the West Fiord, the western v<*'
Christiania Fiord, the district lying bet Lake Wetter tnd the J
and a tract in the basin of the river DaL Silnriaa ftmta ^
SWEDEN AND NOEWAV. 311
•Jttenaivc areas— one in the N, of Finmarken, and the other in the
Bentre of the peniusula, extending from the parallel of Bergen tn
near the arctic circle. Uppsr palLeozoic and trap rocks occur ui tha
ujiper hasin of the Dal.
UlnBiBls. — The iron-minea of Sweden are the most famoua in the
world, ajid yield on an nrerage 70,000 tons annually. The Swedish
icon imported into Grejit Britain is mainly used for the manufacture
of BteeL In 1367, we leceired 60,066 tons of bar-iron and iS56 tons
of unwronoht- steel from Sweden. The best iron is found in the lUn
Upsala. Copper is also abundant, the mines of Falihm alone for-
merly pelding 500 tons annunlly, but the ecpply is rapidly declining.
Silver ie foand to a small estett, and cobalt is worked in several
places. Other products are— coal, of an inferior qaality, lime,
granite, and porphyry. The mountains of Norway are rich in min-
erals, liQt from the difficulty of transport and the scarcity of f^el,
mining industry is but little devolopai There are 23 mining estab-
lishments, but they are confined to iron, copper, silver, cobalt, and
chrome. Gold, lead, alum, and graphite also occur, but in small qnan-
titiea, as also magnetic iron and garnets of a beantiful green colour.
The Bilver-mine of Kongaborg, worked since 162*, was formerly re-
garded as the richest in Europe.
Botaiiy and Agriculture. — The flora of Scandinavia is wholly em-
braced in Schonw'Bj!r«< and «econiiphyto- geographic regions, or the
" region of saxifrages aud mosses, and the " region of the nmbel-
lifene and cmcifene." The former, also callad the Alpine Arclk
Jlora, includes Finmarken and the higher elevations of the mountain-
range ; and the latter, the entire remainder of the peninsula. Ac-
cording to Fries, the flowering-plants of Scandinavia are distribttted
as follows : total number of species in Lapland, 697 ; in Norirav,
1200 ; Sweden, south of the lakes, 1416 ; Sweden, north of the
lakes, 1356. Among trees, the pins tribe is the most important,
forming, in the snnth, extensive forcats. Spruce and Scotch pines
are largely exported to England, where, owing to their resmons
aualities, they are highly prized. The fir eitends to the Polar Circle,
IB pine beyond it, while the birch is found as far north as lat. 70°,
mnd at an (deration of loSO feet. A fonrtli part of the entire surface
of Sweden is covered with forests ; yet the yield of timber is small, a
great part of it being required for ftiel, and for charcoal required in
working the minei. The principal forest-trees are ]iine, fir, birch,
oak, ash, beech, lime, elm, alder, and willow. Fruit-trees, except
the cheny, are limited to the south of Int. 60°.
Among careala, barley Is the princinal crop In all parts of the peninmila.
In Norway it eitends to lat. 70°, and in Sweden to 89". Other kiuds of
grain do not thrive in Norway, exoapt in favoured spots ; but oats, rye,
and even wlieat are cultivated in Sweden. The soil la not generally ver;
fiertilg, and not more tlian one-fifth of the surface of tbe entire penmeuln
ItDndercultlTaUoD. In Norway, only a hundredth part of the surface is
lercultura, and the quantity of com nused is iomifBcieiit for home cou-
aption, but polatots ore eiteuaively eoltirated. Owing to recent ipi-
imnntts in husbsudry, the qnaotity of com raised in Sweilen f uU;
342 POUTICAL GEOGRAPUY.
meets the wants of the population. The horses and cattle are small, and
the sheep yield an inferior kind of wool. The reindeer is the (mly domes-
tic animal north of lat. 64°, where Iceland moaa. which is its customary
food, is very abundant The dog is also employed in this region as a
beast of draught.
Zoology. — The principal Mammals are the brown bear, wol( lynx,
fot, glutton, lemming, deer, elk, marten, hare, sable, beaver, and
squirrel. Birds, including the eagle and falcon, are numerous, espe-
cially on the western coasto, were sea-fowl abound. The wild-goose,
and eider-duck are numerous, as also the grouse and capercailzie.
Wild-ducks abound in the lakes and rivers, and the swan appears in
the S. in winter. The seas, lakes, and rivers, swarm with the greatest
abundance of Fish, and fishing forms in Norway the most imnortant
branch of 'industry, especially the cod, herring, salmon, whale, lob-
ster, and oyster fisheries. The rich abundance of trout and sa^on
renders Norway the best angling country in the world. The h^rrinff
has wellnigh forsaken the eastern coast ; but another species of fish
resembling it -(the stroming) is caught in great numbers. The waters of
Scandinavia embrace three of Forbes's Segions of Marine Life — ^viz.,
the Arctic region on the N., the Boreal on the W., and the Celtic on
the S. and S.E., including the Skager Rack, Kattegat, and Baltic
Ethnography. — The people are all of the Scandinavian branch of
the Teutonic stock, wiu the exception of the Finns and Lapps, who
belong to the Mongolian race.
Langiuige. — ^The Swedes, Norwegians, and Danes originally spoke the
same language — viz., the Icelandic, old Danish, or Norse ; and though
the Swedish and Norwegian are now dialectically different, they are still
very closely allied, both in their roots and inflections ; while the Nor-
wegian is almost identical with modem Danish. The latter is the ver-
nacular language of the peasantry in Norway, and the Danish Bible is
the only one used in the churches.
lUligioJL — Scandinavia is the most Protestant country in Europe. A
few Finns and Lapps still remain heathens, but almost the whole Teutonic
population are Protestants. Lutheranism is the State rel^on, both in Nor-
way and Sweden, and the Established Church is almost universally ad-
hered to; but other sects are tolerated by law, except Jews, Jesuits, and
Mormons, in Norway. Recently, however, much mtolerance has been
manifested in Sweden towards native Protestants who refuse to attend the
Established Church.
EducaJtum. — In both countries nearly all the young are in r^^tdar at-
tendance at school, and scarcely^ a peasant can be found in the peninsula
who cannot read and write. This is mainly owing to a law which prohibits
marriage to all who have not been admitted to the communion, and which
admits to the communion only those who can read. There are three
universities — viz., those of Christiania, Upsala, and Lund, besides colleges
and high schools in all the principal towns.
National Character. — ^The Norwegians are generally tall and vigorous,
and distinguished by the Ughtness of their hair. They evince a strong
predilection for a seafaring life, and make excellent sailors. They are
extremely tenacious of old customs, and are peculiarly jealous of all en-
croachments on the part of Sweden. In both countries, intemperance is
the prevailing vice. The Swedes are characterised by a tall, robust
V lltB
Utw&tiiM. — The literatura of ScandinaTia ia adorned by many
namca of more thau Europeaa reputatioo, especially in the depart-
meot of pliysicRl science.
Poktht; Bterahjelm, Dalin, Creutz, Gyllenbore. RuneberE. Biahnp
Temor, BBltiger, Atterbom, Franien, Nicaiider, KBllgren. HisIobt i
Ge^er, FryiEll, SallD, Lagerhriii^, Strionholm, Elieluitd, Ahlquiat.
I, Polhein, AlntrOmi
I architecture. ~
latios, CelBina, Klingenstiema ; m architecture, Teaain ; In
BBOgTBphy, Forsell ; and in ethnoBraphy, ProfeMor Nilsen. Mobal
SoiBHCE : Grabbe, Biberg. Theology : Wingard, Wallin, Emanuel Swed-
enborg. Fine Abts; In sculpture, Bj'strcm, Gijthe; in palntins, Falil-
cr«ntz, Hurberg. MjacEiiASSona ; Cederborg, Livijn, Frederics Bremer,
Baroness Enorring, Enj^Btrcim, Hopken, Hermansoi], and Almquist
Ooreminen't, Ac. — Norway ia a limited liereditary monarch;?,
united with Sweden since 1814, each country retaicitig its own laws
and legialative asserabliea. The reigning aorereign, Charles XV.,
reaidea in Sweden the greater part of the year, but is bonnd to visit
Norway annnally. In the absence of the King, Norway is governed
bya viceroy, who residea at Christiania, The Legislnlive Assembly of
H«rway is called the Storthing, a body which liosseases greater powers
than even the Britiah Parliament, — a bill after being passed in three
sncceaaive asaembliea becoming taw, even without the royal assent.
The Swedish National Assemlilv is called tbe Diet, which consists of
four Chambera, and ehares tbe legislatiTe power with the sovereign.
Amy and Navy,-— The armies of the two eountriea are aeparale, but
in time of war both are commanded by the king. In IS73, the Swedish
•imy nnmbered 133,000 aoldiers, and the Norwegian, 18,000. In 1887,
the Su'cdiah uavv comprised 48 war-ieeeels, carrying 462 guns, besides
125 ganboati ; while the navy of Norway amounted to 156 yessela, cairv-
JDR 5000 guns and 4000 men. The united Hewntu, in ISdS, amounted to
£3,098,000; the Sxpenditurt to £3,378,000; and the Pi^lus IMA to
tUeK
lienmarli, Portugal, and Germany. Tlie commerce of Sweden witb
Great Britain ia twice aa great as with aire other ci — ' — '^"
uiiodpal articles e:iported from the peninauut are deals and timber,
bar-tron and steel, oats, fisli, ice, tar, pitch, turpentine, and some
copper ; while the chief articles imported are woollen mamtfactures,
avenging £120,000 per annum, wrought and nnwrought iron, salt,
rain, end articles of colonial produce. Next in iniportanee to the
imber trade are the fisherie*, which consist mainly of cod and haniiig.
The Manvfactiirrt of Sweden consist ohiefly of articles of home cou-
k.«nmptiaiL as woollen, cotton, and Imcn cloth, eugar, tobacco, and paper.
^Tanning la on important branch of industiy : distilling and brewing are
344 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
extensively prosecuted, and shipbuilding is carried on to some esctent.
There are lew manufactures in Norway: brandy distilleries and saw-
mills are numerous; next to these are forges and metal-foundries, the
produce of which is generally^ exported in a raw state. Iron-wire and
nails are important items of industry, as also coarse woollen, linen, and
cotton cloth for domestic use, glass, paper, oil, gunpowder, soap, to-
bacco, sugar-refining, and shipbuilding.
Internal Communication. —This is very deficient, especially in
Norway, where few of the rivers are navigable for any considerable
distance. The Glommen, the largest river in the kingdom, is navi-
gable for only 14 miles ; but regular steam communication has been
established between the towns along the coast. The principal canals
are the Gotha Canal, which connects the Kattegat with tne Baltic,
by the Gotha river and Lakes "Wener and Wetter, avoiding the cele-
brated Trolh&tta Fall ; the Hielmar or Arboga Canal, uniting Lakes
Mselar and Hielmai* ; and the Sodertelge Canal, joining the southern
extremity of Lake Mselar with the Baltic. In 1874, there were 2227
miles of railway open in the peninsula, of which 1913 miles belonged
to Sweden. Railways connect Stockholm with Gothenburg, J5nkdp-
ing, and Fahlun ; while others are in progress in Gothland, which
will connect it with Copenhagen and Stralsimd, by Malm5e and
Ystad. In Norway, a short line has been constructed between the
capital and Lake Miosen, and another uniting the valley's of the
Glonmien and Logen.
Foreign Possessions. — The only foreign possession belonging to
Sweden is the small island of St Bartholomew in the West Indies.
It was ceded by France to Sweden in 1784, has an area of 16 sq.. m.,
and a population of 2898.
Historical Sketch.— Sweden, Norway, and the greater part of
Denmark were anciently known as Scandinavia, from which proceeded
the Normans or Northmen, who conquered Normandy in the begin-
ning of the 9th century, and England in 1066. Until the 7th
century, Norway was governed by petty rulers. About 630, Olaf, of
the race of Odin, was expelled from Sweden, and established a colony
in Vermeland, which became the nucleus of a monarchy founded by
his descendant, Halfdan III., in 824. The ancient inhabitants of
Sweden were the Fins, a diminutive race, who retired to Finland,
their present territory, on the appearance of the Goths, who have
ever since been masters of Sweden. The Christian faith was estab-
lished in Norway about A.D. 998, and in Sweden in the beginning of
the eleventh century. Stockholm was founded in 1260, and Cm-is-
tiania in 1624. By the Union of Kalmar (1397), Norway, Sweden,
and Denmark were united under Margaret. Denmark and Norway
separated from Sweden in 1523, when Gustavus Yasa ascended the
throne of Sweden. His illustrious descendant, Gustavus Adolphus,
feU at the battle of Lutzen, in 1632. In 1524 Sweden embraced the
Keformed religion. Finland, formerly part of Sweden, was ceded to
Russia by the treaty of Frederickshamm, 1809 ; and Norway was
united to Sweden by the treaty of Kiel, 1814.
1. FoBltion and Boundariea, — N., the Arctic Ocean ; W.,
Ae Ural Mountains and Biver, the Caspian, Black Sea, Medi-
terranean, and Bed Sea ; S., tlie Indian Ocean ; E., tiie Nortli
Pacific Ocean.
Enrope and Asia fona in reality but one rontEDent, which extends half-
way ronnd tha globe. Of this gigantic continent £nrope forma only a
great peuinsala. Asia alone is by ta,t the krgeet and most populoiu of
tlie fliK great diviaions of the globe. Its form approximates to tliat of a
Bcalene triangle, the longest side of nhlcb extends from East CBr« in
Behrinij Strait to Suez in Arabia, and the shortest from Suez to Cam-
bodiai Tha only porta of Asia prqjectjiie beyond thin triangle are, on
the 8., the three peninsulas of Malaya, Hindustan, and Arabia ; on the
N.W., the peninsulas of Anatolia and the two smaller ones on either side
of the Q. 01 Obi; and on the K, the projections of Kamtchatka, Corea, and
Eastern China. Continental Ania extends from Iflt. riC (C. Romania) to
77° iV N. (C. ChelyusHn), and from Ion, 26° S- E. (C. Baba) to lefl" W.
(B.Cape). Hence it lies wholly in the northern hemisphere, and embraces
■ 77 d^, of lat. and 16G of Ion, The exact centre of the cantinent is
m KaraTDangnai, a small take in Sonthem Mongolia, about 8° W. of Pekin.
W 2. Ooast-LliM and Sxtiema Points. ^Tbe coast-line is variooaly
F eatimatedfrom 3n,000to35,000in. Thefonnergiveal m. ofeoaatto
■ evei^SSOm. of surface, while Europe baa 1 m. to every 22Sni. (p. 61).
The extreme length from BehringStr. to Str, of Bab-el-Mandeb is 6700
m., and the extreme breads from C. Severo to C. Romania GIOD m.
3, Mxea, and Foiralatlm The area o[ Asia is bnt very im-
perfectly ascertained ; but, according to the most recent estimates,
it amounts to 36,838,181 sq, ni., or nearly a third part of the land
surface of the globe. It is more than the area ol Europe and Africa
together, or even than North and South America. The popola-
tion is also variously estimattd, tbere being uo accurate census n!
moat Asiatic countries ; but the sum of the jKipulations of the differ-
ent states, as given in the fallowing table, is 769,705,466, or about
fottT-aevenths of the popnlation of the globe. Vast as thia population
u, Asia Is far leas densely peopled than Enropv, having only 42 per-
sona to each sq. m., while Europe has 75, The most densely peopled
regions are China and the valley qf the Qanges, while the least popu-
lous are the marshy flats of Siberia, and the deserts of Arabia, Syria,
Persia, and Central Asia.
4. Political DiTlslona.— The actual number of independent states
is nncertain and ever Snctuating, and several of the countries enu-
merated in the following table contain individually a number of small
states not acknowledging allegiance to any other power.
FOLITICAL QEOaRAPar.
fli
ISIiiSIIHIiliililllSI I
HH|i=|SI|JHI,iHS.i
1ft
rtllll!]
I
G. Snrlace, PlainB, cuad TaUe-Landa.— Nearly tiie wliolo of Silieria
aud Western Turkestan consiate of one vast continuoas lo«land
plain, of nearly the size of Europe, and only partially separated from
the greB.t European plain by the Ural Monntaiiis. Only ita southem
SntioD is cnpable of cultivation. In the vicinity of the An^tic
cean it forms a nuccessioD of desert tracts called Tundrru, which iii
■ummer are covered with mass, and interspersed with lakes and
marshes, and in winter ate buried under a solid covering of ice— the
anbaoU being coustantly frozen. The eastern half is less uniformly
level than the western, and ia more generally covered with forests.
Indeed, one unbroken forest region, unniediately south of the run-
drai, extends ^in Arkhangel, in Europeaii Russia, to Eamtchatka
•nd Behring Strait. This forest, chieSy of pines, is about 4000 m.
in lineal extent, and ia the largest on the surface of the elobe.
Sonth-west cf the wooded region is that of the Sleppet, which con-
sist of immense barren plains, abounding in salt lakes, into which
many of the rivers of Europe and Asia discharge their contents.
This forms one of the most depressed portions of the earth's Burface,
and includes the Caspian, the surface of which is 83 ft. below that
of the Black Sea, and having a depth in the south of nearly 3000
ft. Other plains ate Meiopatamia, or the lower basin of the
Euphrates aud Tigris ; the Th-ur, or valley o( the Indus ; Plain of
Eindattan, or valley of the Ganges ; Inda-Chiaae Plain, in Further
India ; and the CAmeie Plain, or the lower basin oE the Yang-tse-
ELiang and Hoang-ho, More than a half of the surface of Asia ia
occuped with an immense elevated plateatl or table-land, extending
without intermptiou lor about 5600 m., from the Mediterranean
and Bed Sens in the W. to the coast of Corea in the E., with a
breadth varying from 2000 to 700 m. It ia divided into the fol-
lowing distinct portions : Plateau of Asia Minor, 3280 ft high, aud
Elateau of Armenia, 7000 ft., bounded by Mount Taiu-ua and the
aucaaas ; platejiu of Arabia from 6000 to 8000 ft high, occupying
the whole interior of that peninsula ; plateau of Iran, 3500 ft.,
■between the Persian Gulf and the plain of Turkestan ; platean of
Pamir, 15,000 ft, N. of tlie Hindu Kush Mountains, and contain-
ing the Sir-i-Kol, the most elevated lake in the world ; platean of
Tibet, from 10,000 to 14,000 ft., N. of the Himalaya, and orieinat-
ing all the p'eat rivers of Southern Asia ; plateau of Gobi or
Shamo, 3000 ft. high, 1200 m. long, and from 500 to 70O m. broad,
in Eastern Turkestan and Mongolia — it consists of an immense rain-
less desert of shifting sand containing little vegetatioQ ; plateaux
of Malwa, Dakhan, and Maiaflr, in Hindustan, from 2000 to 8000
ft. high, and separated from the tabledands of High Asia by the
VBlleys of the Indus and Gauges.
6. PenlnEnlas fmd latbmuses. — The principal peninsulas are the
following : Anatolia or Asia Minor, bet. the Black Sea and the
Mediterranean I Arabia, bet &t Bed Sea and the Persian Gulf;
Hindustan, bet the Arabian Sea aud the Bay of Bengal ; Furtlier
India, or the Eastern Peninsula, bet. the Buv of Bengal and the
1 China Sea ] Malay Peninsula, a southern prolongation of Pnrtlier
348 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
India ; Corea, bet. the Yellow Sea and the Sea of Japan ; Eamt-
chatka, bet the Seas of Okhotsk and Kamtchatka. Nearly all the
Asiatic peninsulas stretch southward — the chief exception being
Asia Minor. The Isthmus of Suez connects Asia with Africa ; and
the Isthmus of Kraw, Siam with Malaya : the other isthmuses of
Asia have no distinctive names.
7. Capes and Islands. — Baba, W. of Asia Minor; Has-al-Had.
S. E. of Arabia ; Coniorin, S. of Hindustan ; Dundra Head, S. of
Ceylon ; Negrais, S.W. of Pegu ; Romania, S. of Malaya ; Cam-
bodia, S. of Anam ; King, E. of Japan ; Patience, E. of Island Sag-
halien ; Lopatka, S. of Kamtchatka ; East Cape, the most eastern
point of Siberia ; Severo, or North-East Cape, N. of Siberia. Islands.
— Rhodes, Samos, Scio, Mitylene or Lesbos, in the iBgean Sea ;
Cyprus, in the Levant ; Socotra, S. of Arabia ; Ceylon, S. of Hin-
dustan ; Hainan, S. of China ; Formosa, E. of China ; Japan Isles,
E. of Mantchooria ; Saghalien, a semi-peninsula, E. of Siberia ;
Kurile Islands, bet. Japan and Kamtchatka; Aleutian Isles, bet
Kamtchatka and Alaska ; New Siberia, in the Arctic Ocean. For
the islands of Malaysia (Sumatra, Java, Borneo, Philippine Isles,
&c.), see under ** Oceania."
8. Seas, Gulfs, and Straits. — Black Sea, N. of Asia Minor ; Sea of
Marmora, bet. Asiatic and European Russia ; .£gean Sea, or Archi-
pelago, W. of Asia Minor ; Levant, W. of Syria ; Red Sea, Str. of
Bab-el-Mandeb, and G. of Aden, bet. Arabia and Africa ; Arabian
Sea, bet. Arabia and Hindustan; Persian Gulf, Str. of Ormuz, and
G. of Oman, bet. Arabia and Persia ; Gulfs of Kachh and Cambay,
N.W. of Hindustan ; G. of Manaar and Palk Strait, bet. Hindustan
and Ceylon ; Bay of Bengal, bet. Hindustan and Further India ; G.
of Martaban, bet. Pegu and Tenasserim ; Str. of Malacca, bet
Malaya and Sumatra ; G. of Siam, S. of Siam ; China Sea, bet.
China and the Philippine Isles ; G. of Tonquin, bet Tonqnin and
the island Hainan ; Formosa Strait, bet. China and Formosa ; Tellow
Sea, bet. China and Corea ; Str. of Corea, bet. Corea and Japan ;
Sea of Japan, bet. Japan and Mantchooria ; G. of Tartary, bet the
mainland and Saghalien ; Sea of Okhotsk, bet Okhotsk and Sjunt-
chatka; Sea of Kamtchatka, G. of Anadir, and Behring Str., bet
Siberia and Alaska ; Gulfs of Obi and Kara, N.W. of Siberia.
9. Mountain-Ssrstems. — The Bolor Tagh Mountains, in the centre
of Turkestan, midway between Spain and Ejontchatka, and be-
tween Novaia Zemlia and Ceylon, is the grand centre from which all
the great mountain-ranges of Asia and Europe diverge. This great
primary chain stands on the lofty plateau of Tamir (15,600 ft £ be-
tween the sources of the Amoo and the Tarkand^ and attelna an
elevation uf 19,000 ft The following are the principal ehaiiu that
radiate from it in all directions : —
The Western System.— This ^reat range fionns the nortiiflEn boiindaiy
of the table-lands of Western Asia, and Is then
pean Turkey, till it reaches the Alps, Oem
ing at the snores of the Atlantic Th»
ASIA. 3J9
m Howldg iota tJie luiliuu Ocean from 1L09« tLst diauliorgs theui-
wlvss into tbe Block Ssa, Cupian, and Sea of Arai. Its piiucipat mem-
b«ra an the following : 1. The Hinda K^uh, sepamtinK the Panjab and
Afghanistan from Turkestan, anil the basin of^the Indus from that of
the Amao; maiimnm elevation abont Sll,WDft. 2. The Parojiamitan
Range, in the N. E. of Persia, sepiirHtmg Tnrlicatan tram the plateau of
Iran ; highest summit, Koh-i-Baba, 16,(X)0 ft. 8. The ElbMn Mange, S.
of the Caspian, Mt. Uemavend, \%,iU ft., and Zagroi, or Monnlains of
Kurdistan, 12,0OQ ft., separate tbe basins of tha Euphnites and CoJjpian :
height of anow-line on tha Elbura, 11,1)00 ft. 4, ifeinlaiu of Amixia,
between the hasbiB of the Caspian and Blacli Sea : highest summit ML
Ararat, 17,112 ft. 6. Taiims and AiiH-Taiirat, enclosing tba table-lnnd
of Asia Minor, separate the basins of the Euphrates from that of the Block
Sea; highest suminit Mt. Argish, 13,000 ft. 6. The l.dianim Range
(10,061 ft.), proceeding from Mt. Tanrue southward along the Syrian coast
to ML Herraon in the north of Palestine. 9053 ft, high, and thence con-
tinued tbrangh Palestine into the peninaulaof Bhiai — Mt. St Katharine,
"'^"^ ■■■ iinai,7359ft. 7. J/t. Cai«tuui,proce6dinginaT--"- — ' —
The Soath-Eaatem System. — This syetem e:cteDd9 from tlie southern
eitremity of the Bolor Tagh to the China Sea, and forma the soutbocn
wall of tbe lofty plaleau of High Asia. It contnlns the loftiest elevations
on the earth's enrfaca, and oonaista mainly of the following chains ; 1.
The Sitnalaya (" abode of snow") between Hindustan and Tibet, and
Bepirating the basin of the Ganges from the upper basin of the Brahma-
putra. The threa loftiest peaks ore Mt. Everest or Oanrisankar, 29,002
fL above the level of the sea (the culminating point of Asia, andprobahiy
the highest eumniit on the earth's surface), bet. Nepal and Tibet, Ion. 86"
WyK^jKunchinjunga, inSikhim, 27,81fift.; and Dhawalagiri, in Nepal,
26,82S ft. Several other peaks in this range rise to an elevation of
25,000 ft., and not fewer than a hundred attain a height of 20,000 ft.
The chain is 1500 m. long, and from 100 to 350 m. broad : height of
anow-liuo on the south side, 1B,200 ft.— on the north side, 17,400 ft. ;
highest elevation at which wheat grows, 13,000 ft, 2. Tbe Karaiomm
Mil,, in Tibet, midway bet. the Himalaya and Euan-Lun, and nearlyos
lofty as the former : highest summit, Dapaong peak, 28,278 ft. S. The
Mtt D/Arathan. bet, the Iranodi and Bay of Bengal. 5000 ft. 4. Mts.
of Siain, Cambodia, and Aoam, in Further India : highest stunmit, Tidi-
bang-ea, in Molaya, 6681 ft.
The Eastern Bystem, extending from the Bolor Tagh due east to the
Pocifio Ocean, and consisting of two main sections: 1. The Kutn-lun
Mountains, separating the upper husins of the Indus and Brohmaputm
Irom that of the Tarkand, about 22,000 ft. high. 2. Tbe Pe-ling,
between the Yang-lae and Hoang-Ho, Sovenil counlerforta set out fium
tbePe-ling— vie, tbe Yun-ling,l2,000ft., between Chiniand Tibet; the
I Nan-ling, 8000 ft., between the basiDS of the Yaug-tiie-Kiaiig and Canton
■rtver ; the Kihan-Sban, In-Shan, and Ehin-gan Mountains, forming tba
tLE. wall of tbe desert of Shamo.
, Tlu irmth-Eutem GyBt«ai, eitending E.N.B. tram the Bolor T^li to
iriiw Strait, separalm the !^va«.i,.(ii,g (hat incline to tlte Arctic Ocean
n those inelintoc t ' " —"Vi^Kjea— 1. WiJwi-.SAnn, it
Celestial Mountai'' ~ boilns of the Olii and
i« Ynrknad ; Ti love the limit of per-
350 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
eunial snow. 2. The Altaian^ Sayantt, and YalUmoi MounUuns^m ibe
S. of Siberia, separating the basin of the Amoor from those of the Yenisei
and Lena ; Mount Katunsk, in the Altai, 12,790 fL 8. SUmovoi and
Aldan Mountains, in Eastern Siberia, between the Arctic Ocean and Sea
of Okhotsk— Schiwelutch. in Kamtchatka, 10,548 ft ; Kliutschew. 15.825
ft. ; these and many other summits are active volcanoes. The limit of
perennial snow in Kamtchatisa is at an elevation of 4475 fL
10. VolcanoeB. — These are not numerous, except in Kamtchatka
and the islands which line the eastern coast, especially the Japan,
Aleutian, and Kurile Isles ; Pecha and Ho-Chan, in the Thian-Shan
range, are the most remarkable exceptions to the general rule of the
proximity of volcanoes to the sea. Karthquakes are numerous in S.
and E. Asia, as also in Asiatic Turkey. (See under " Oceania. *0
11. Monntaln-PasBes. — These are very numerons, and many of
them highly celebrated. Those across the Himalaya sometimes
exceed by half a mile of elevation the loftiest summit of the Alps :
thus the Ihi-Gamin Pass, between Gurwhal and Tibet, has an eleva-
tion of 20,459 ft, and is the highest known pass; Mustakh Pass,
crossing the Karakorum Mountains, 18,435 ft ; Parang Pass,
18,500 ft. ; Kiobrang Pass, 18,313 ft ; Kiti Pass, from Kumaon to
Tibet (Ion. 80°), is 16,814 ft high. The Khyber Pass, leading from
Pesha\vur to Jelalabad (3373 ft), though narrow and dangerous, is
the only route from Northern India to Afghanistan. The Bolan
Pass, from Dadur to Quettah, 5793 ft high and 59 m. long, is the
only practicable carriage route from the lower Indus to the table-
laud of Biluchistan. Bamian Pass, between the Hindu Rush and
the Paropamisan Mountains (8496 ft), is the only pass practicable
for artillery from Afghanistan into Western Turkestan. Pass of
Keli-Shin, in the Zagros Mountains (9600 ft), leads from Persia to
Baghdad. The Pass of Golek Boghaz {dliclan Gates), across the
Taurus range, connects Cilicia with Cappadocia, and was the route
by which Alexander the Great entered Cilicia. Pass of Beilan
{Syria Portce), between Mt Amanus and the Mediterranean, con-
nects Asia Minor with Syria : this was the pass through which Daiios
fled, after his defeat by Alexander on the adjoining plain of Ifisaa,
B.a 833.
12. Biver-BaslnB and CapitalB. — The river-systems of Asia sur-
pass in number those of any other continent, though none of them
attains the dimensions of the Amazon or Missouri. This is owing to
the different disposition of the mountain-chains^ whioh in America
are placed on one side of the continent^ whereas the prhieipal chains
and table-lands of Asia traverse its central xegianSi and send the
rivers in five different directions, corresponding to the five great
basins to which they respectively belonfl^— Tiz., the Blusk Sea and
Mediterranean, the Indian Ocean, the Fftdfio Ooeaii|i the Antfo*
Ocean, and the basin of continental streamsL ^m^
shows the direct lengths and .areas of the
gether with the capitals of the different statH t*-
of states contained in them. When the nv
from that of its capital, the former is addf
1
k
1
1
.„•„
Bl
0^
-"■" —
1. Ainwit
400 1 SG.IOD ; Svu (Bnoin). I
SJS^r: ::::::::
s.
EnpTirsteB,.
MO
sao
3BD
1000
m
laiiniin
SID
un
..
eliiud to li,
S1!,I)0D
vBiiiQO
as
asa.oDo
aai.ooo
U«tdleth
Slfl.000
(iT.auo
MT.«1»
MI.SSO
Knromn, Aim™, ahoBter (Kliut-
Bs^dBd, Voanl (!nirkliib Eur-
(BBltiHto), Leh (laUkkhj, BHt-
Maibu^-.
1-,
^r'!*;
•^W"},
bBTX Benarci, All^aUa. Bikb-
Lim, Bh*™u<dc (Nei»a),
L&Ksmn (Opdli), Bew^ Aou
(N.W. PmvlnuMX BhnrtpUr,
ItaUii, B..PU-, Jlanii. Bhopii,
GwiLioK, miolpm, Bmai. Efr
Miii aolny (BlnnaXPfcn, Munlpnr,
MulmolniTenBaBenin Frovtatf)
/•aoiiUOdBttn.
{ (Ldwsr Ckwhiu Cluiu).
CLDtuD, Kwel-Un (Kwui'-Be).
Nauldn (Elang-su), Kgm-HlBg
(Gin-bwBS), Wop-elujia (Bon.
June (Kwet-ubow), ChluE-tr*
(He-ctoenX Vun-onn.
Tii-Dtu (6]i£n-t»ng). Lac-uhow
(Kiiii-Bn),So-gun(aim-Jw), Tub-
yii™ (StoD-bo).
S,iinHle»sk(PtlmoMlt), Sliieoy^^
Cl.(Miinicbooriii), dhilktTniM-
B.
■oDgm nd H«-1
oiSS^v.;:::;:
'-«-i-r-
hmw-B"
352
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
RiTBK-BASIItl.
Direct
Length.
Area tn
Qeognphical
Bqaar«
Miles.
OAPITAIJ op StA-TM and PBOTIMCat.
4. Basiru inclined to tJie Arctic Ocean.
Indigirka.
Lena,
Yenisei, ..
Obi,
500
600
1300
1950
1800
107,200
86,400
594,400
784,530
924,800
CSijni Kolimsk, in Yakatsk.
(Zachioerskf in Yakutsk.
Yakutsk.
Krasnolarsk (Yeniseisk), Irkutsk,
Urga (Mongolia).
Tobolsk, Tomsk, Seniii>oIa1in8k.
5. Basin of Continental Streams.
Kur,
Volga,
Ural,
Amoo Dapia,
Syr Daria,
larkand or Tarim,
Helmund ,
HeriRood,
520
64.640
900
897,460
550
88,200
880
193,600
720
237.920
880
177,120
420
76,380
480
• •
Tiflis, Erivan, Shemakha.
(See p. 96.)
Orenbu^.
Khiva, Enndnz.
Turkestan, Ehokand.
SIashoab (Eastern Turkestan).
Slandahar.
Meshed (Khorassan), Herat
_
13. Lakes. — The lakes of Asia are very numerous, especially in
A.sia Minor, Western Turkestan, and the ffreat Central Basin. To
Asia belongs the greatest lake in the world (the Caspian), and the
largest fresh- water lake in the Old World (Lake Baikal). Beginning
at the N.E. of Asiatic Turkey, and following the order of the river-
basins in which they occur, the following are the principal lakes : —
Kizil Irmdk Basin, — Tuz-Gul, in the centre of Asia Minor, 45
m. long, 16 m. broad, 3000 ft. above the level of the sea, is the
saltest lake known, and has no outlet. Jordan, — Sea of Cralilee ;
Dead Sea, intensely salt, 1312 ft. below the level of the Mediter-
ranean, the lowest lake known. Euphrates, — Lake Van, in Turk-
ish Armenia, salt ; no visible outlet. Indus, — Munchur, in Sindh ;
Wallur, in Kashmir; Rhawan and Mansarowar, at the source of
the Satlej. BrahmaptUra. — Tengri-nor and Paltee, in Tibet Yang'
tse. — Poyang and Tong-Ting, in China Proper. Hoamg'Ho, —
Ko-ko-Nor, N.W. of dnina Proper. Yenisei, — Baikal, in South
Siberia, the largest fresh-water lake in the Old World; area 14,000
sq. m., drained by the Angara. Ohi, — Zaisan, in Dzon^uria, drained
by the Irtish. Basin of Continental Streams, — The Caspian, area
178,866 sq. m., being the largest lake in the world, 83 ft oelow the
level of the sea ; Lake Urumiah, W. of the Caspian, very salt ; Sea
of Aral, £. of the Caspian, area 27,000 sq. m., and 117 ft above the
Caspian, receives the Amoo from Lake Sir-i-Kol, height 15,600 ft
above the sea, the highest lake known ; Lake Balkash, far £. of the
Sea of Aral, area 11,500 sq. m.; Lake Issyk-Eul, 200 m. S. of Lake
Balkash ; Lob Nor, in the basin of the Yarkand, and Tengri Nor, in
Tibet ; Zurrah or Hamun, in Afghanistan.
14. Climate. — Extending from the immediate Tidnity of Ilia
equator to far within the Arctic circle, Asia exhibits ersiy Tariefj of
I
rain, espe-
a of Bilu-
cUmate, from the inteDse heat of the torrid zone to the extreme aiij
long-CDntiDiiad cold of the circuci polar regiuna. Tliree climatic
KOQea, however, aj-e easily diatinguishablo. The most northem of
these, vhich includes tbs great Siherian pl&in, is charactiriaeil by
extreme cold for nine mODtha in the year, theo giring place to a brief
period of excessive heat. The mean temperature of this zona extends
from the freezing-point of water to below zero. The coldest portion
of this dreary region, and, so far as yet known, of the whole globe,
is in the lower basin of the Lena, where Yakutsk, for example, has a
meanannna! temperature ot IS".!!; summer 08°. 7, and winter — 36° .7,
or 304° helow zero ; being a difference of D5° between mean summer
and mean winter. For the month of January, the mean temperature
is— *6°.B, while that of July ifl68°.8 Fab. In Northem Siberia tlie
gromtd is perpetually frozen to a great depth, the snperticial stratum
alone thawing in summer. The rivers are not clear of iue till June ;
but as the icB melts in their upper courses earlier than in the lower,
extensive areas are for a season under water. (See under " Siberia,")
The Middle Zone, whith embraces the high table-lands of the inte-
rior, is cold and dry, and subject to the influence of piercing. winds
from the north: here large tracts are seldom visited by ra'
cially the great desert of Gobi or Shamo, a large portior
chistan, Persia, Northem Arabia, and Southern Syria, ii
which a drop of rain is never known to fall, and in others only at
long intervals, and in very small qnantiliea. The Southern Zone,
comprising all the countries sonth of the table-lands, is characterised
by intense snmmer heat, extreme moisture, and no teat winter : here
the rain falls with extreme violence at particnlar seasons of the year ;
at Calcutta no less than Hi inches fall annually ; and at Bombay, IS
inches of rain have been known to fall in a single day.
13. Oeologf. — The geology of Asia has hitherto been very imper-
fectly explored, hut the facts already ascertained warrant the follow-
ing generalisations : Tebtiaby aks Allutial Defoeith cover the
Elains of Siberia and Western Turkestan, of Hindustan, Further
udia, aud China, tlie Arabian and Syrian deserts, and the table,
land of Persia. Seoondaey Strata embrace Jiumcrons tracts in
Asia Minor, Palestine, and Western Syria, the nortU-westsrn half of
Persia, parts of Arabia and Bilnchjstan, Tibet, Central China, the
eastern part of Uontchooria, and several tracts in the basins of the
Lena aud Obi Pal*ozoio and Transitiom Rocks occupy eiten-
aive tracts lying to the N. of lakes Balkash and Baikal respectively,
the Stanovoi and Aldan Mountains, portions of the middle basin of
'the Yaniaei, and a long belt lying S. of Cape Severo. Nnmerous
large tracts of upper pus30zoic also occur in Asia Minor. Cbthtal-
LiNE St&ata prevail in the mountain regions of Ceiitrsl Asia, from
Mount Elburz in the W. to the eastern extremity of the Yablonol
Hoimtains in the R, and from the Altai to the Chinese Sea ; Siberia,
E, of Ion, 185°; many tracts in Asia Minor; together withthe south.
I key. Central Hindustan, the
354 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
and Eamtchatka, aud the Aleutian, Eurile, Japan, and Formosa
Isles.
16. BIlneralB. — Asia has in all ages been celebrated for the nnm*
ber and variety of its mineral productions. Diamonds and other
precious stones abound in India, Birma, the Ural and Altai Moun-
tains ; Coal, in Syria, Birma, Hindustan, China, and Japan ; SaU, in
Asia Minor, Arabia, Hindustan, China, Siberia, and Central AiEda ;
Fctroleumiy on the shores of the Caspian ; Bitumen, in the Dead Sea ;
Nitre, in India; Salphwr, in Ladakh; Gold, Iron, Copper, and
Platinum, in the Urals; Qold, Silver, Iron, Lead, in the Altai;
Mercury, in China, Tibet, and Japan; Tin, in the Eastern Penin-
sula and Japan ; Volcanic produ>cts, in the Taurus range and in
Japan.
17. Botany. — ^The vegetable products vary exceedingly in the dif-
ferent countries, according to latitude, elevation, and other climatic
influences. The entire continent embraces no fewer than eight of
the twenty-five botanic regions into which Prof. Schouw divides the
vegetation of the globe— viz., the 1st, 2d, 3d, 6th, 7th, 8th, 12th,
and 13th of his system. (See p. 64.) The characteristic vegetation
of the first three regions is given at length under " Europe, p. 81.
The sixth, or Japanese region, embraces Japan, Northern China, and
the eastern part of Eastern Turkestan. Its vegetation occupies a
middle position between the floras of Europe and North America,
with a considerable aflinitv to that of India, as shown by its palms
and bananas. The seventn, or Indian region, which embraces Hin-
dustan, Ceylon, Further India, and the S. of Cluna, and which is
unrivalled for the richness of its vegetation, will be described under
** Hindustan ;" as also the eighth, or Emodic region, which com-
prises the mountains of Northern India, between the elevations of
5000 and 12,000 ft. The twelfth region, or Re^on of Balsam
Trees, comprising the S.W. of Arabia, Persia, Biluchistan, and
Sindh, will be noticed under the first of those countries; as will
also the thirteenth region, usually known as the Desert Region,
which comprises the remainder of Arabia and the great Afiican
desert.
18. Zoology. — The Asiatic continent constitutes the secondof the six
zoological kingdoms into which naturalists have divided the globe.
(See p. 57.) It is divided into four zoological provinces — the
Northern, Central, Southern, and Transition. The Northern pro-
vince, or Arctic Asia, extends from the Arctic Ocean to the Altai
Mountains, and from the Urals to the Pacific Ocean ; being bounded
on the south by the isothermal curve of 32° Fah. , which marks the
limit of the permanent frost of the soil. The Central province
extends from the Altai to the Himalaya and Hindu Eush Mountains,
and from the Caspian Sea to Japan. The Southern province, or
Tropical Asia, comprises all the remaining countries oi Asia lying
east of the table-land of Iran ; whUe the Transition province
embraces Western Asia south of the Caucasus, the Caspian Sea, and
the Paropamisan Mountains. The fauna of the last-named region
3.15
' fs peculiar, suJ furms n (!Qn[lI>I^ttng linlc littweeu the tliree zoulosioiil
kingdoms of Europe, Asia, end Atrica. Tbo fanim of the NortherE
province resembles that of Northern Europe ; while in the Central
and Sonthern provinces are found the elephant, rhinoceros, Bengal
tiger, and many other formidable aniirals, together with the camel,
auroch, yak, nmsk-deer, argal, and Tibet Roat. It ia probable that
all the domestic animals of Enropa, with the eiception, perhaps, of
the sheep, have been originally derived from these two provinces.
Asia has comparatiTely a less variety of birds and reptiles than of
qnadmpeds ; but the cassowary, bustard, pheasant, domestic fowl,
and a number of other gallinaceous birds, sre abundant ; while,
among reptiles, the Indisn python, the cobra de capella, and the
crncodile, or gavial of the Onnges, are formidable in the extreme.
I
synopaia of tbe
first column gives the name o:
number of species presently ki
found in this contioeDt ; while
the number of species fouud i
Asia, respectively, v,^
, mtly known. ITio
the order ; tlie second, the total
3wn ; the third, the total number
the remaining three colnmna show
1 Korthem, Central, and Southern
:E
yl
....
65
20
"e
17
9
WW
'32
2
4
25
Asiatic llAMUiLs.
Camivora(Fleah-ealing), .
Marsupiaha (Pouched Animals), .
Kodentia (Gnawing Animals), .
Edentata tTootliless Animals), .
Pachydermata (Thick- akitined),
Rummantis (Ruminating),
Celacea {Ocoan-Uving), .
202
123
60*
28
39
180
75
49
276
1
135
5
17
B7
29
36
42
ii
24
Total number of Species,
1579
632
113
104
238
ASUTIO BIHD8.
Rwaces {Birds of Prey), .
Somsores (Climbers),
Nlitatorsa (Swimmers), .
59
B5
221
65
IOC
2
9
S
24
39
U
7
20
g
26
2S
41
19S
72
50
19
Total, ...
e22fl
646
83
103
IBD
POLITICAL OEOGHAPHV.
0HDEE3.
^
s
t... ]
H.
*
*
AfllAtlQ Reptiles.
Sauna (Limrij),
Ophidia (Serpents),
Battaohia (Frogi),
eg
203
265
120
126
'1
3
4
3
as
4S
lOS
6
Total,
S57
237
14
U
179
19. EUmognphy. — LeaTiaj; i
which mora properly belongs b
tinent is peopled by two groat ra
golian antt the Caucasian,
it of view tJie Malay paninauU,
Oceania, the entire Asiatic con-
es of the homan family— the Hon-
e Caacasian. Hon^l
rsi^ea of n , .,
natural barriers that separate tliis n.._ ._. ,^__
nations thua occupy the whole of Norttem. Central, ■nd Esatem Asia,
together nith a part of Asia Minor, the inhabitants of which form a con-
necting link between the Mongolian and Caucasian races. For their phy-
siological, inUUectual, and moral characteriatics, bob above, at page 61.
The languages spoken by the Mongol nations all belong to two great
classes — the Monosyllabic and the Finno-Tartarian. The former ia con-
Rned to the soatb-eastem angle of the Continent, and Is spoken In China,
Further India, Bbotan, and-Tibet. The languages compriBed under it,
besides being monosyllabic, are wholly destitute of inflectkui; their
alphabets are generally eymbolic or ideographic (not phonetic) ; they am
inartiiicial in their straoture, and Terr limited in lie range of thoir litera-
ture. The Finno- Tartarian family of tonpes, though not alt(«eUier
Kculiar to Mongol nations, occupies the entire remainder of the Hongo-
n area — viz. , Northern and C^tral Asia — and eitende westward hito
Northern and even Central Europe. Its principal branahei are the TniUah,
Mongolian, and Tangnsian, of Central Asia ; the Japuieee, La-Chnan, and
Corean, of Eastern Asia ; the Georgian and other languages of Che ngun of
the Caucasus ; the Samoiede and Finnish, of the north part of boa eon-
i^ar or Hungarian, of OenttU Ewop*. AUQiesi
r less inflectional and polyiyDabto, poMBM bboDatle
■ipiuucus, BIO luuio refined than the monosyllaUc RrouK whOa ooe at
them— the Turkish—contains a highly respectable UtetMue. Kodmi
research has established an undoubted aSnity batwaan tha monoa^laUe
and Finuo-Tartarian families. The religioiu aqdntkmi of tha Mtlra
Mongol family have always been obtuse and of a vary ll *~ ""*
tjie Turaiilan nathma hvra bacMn* Ho-
e remainder of AjiM — QitSr tarihuy bdi^
I
I
Babylan ihe Great, and faundod ai
ASIA. 337
bounded liy the Blaclt Sen, Caapian, the Hindu Kiisli, and Himalaya on
the H. ; b; the Red Sea and ladinu Ocean □□ the W. and 8. ; and b^ tha
Bay of Bengal and Brahmaputra on the E. The Hindus, Medo-ParsiaiiB,
and Syio-Arabiane, form the three Frimary divisions of thia race In Asia.
The Haldol and Medo-Periiaia appear to have been origioalty one
psople, to have spoken the same lan^age, and to have occupied, in com-
inon, the plateaa of Iran ; but at a tune anterior to the dawn of hietory,
tjie Hindus migrated eastward and settled in the plains of Hindustan,
from which the; eipeiled the aboriginal inhabitanta, who were probably
of HoDgolian origin. Their language was the Sousrrit — a tongue of un-
paralleled oopiousuesa and reflnemant ; and though it is now a dead Ian-
KUB^e. all the tongues presently spoken in Northern India are immediately
derived from it. Brahminisra and Buddliisni — those two master forms of
1a\xa reliEion— originated with this people, and continue to be professed
by nearly a half of the human race.
The Medo-Pernaa group of nations
mrface of Asia, embracing Persia, I
greater part of TnrkeBtan and Armenia, i ne origin oi meae nations aa«
never been accurately ascertained. Theirveryexutence had been scarcely
known beyond tha elevated plateau which, from time immemorial, they
appear to have occupied, when all at once they advanced from obscurity
._ :_. c : — fjgjn jjjgjj. jjiountainous abodes, they captured
e which, in point of estent,
exceeaea even iiisL ui j\o]uu. ineir pnysical conformation, which is
decidedly of the European typ^i corroborates the testimony afforded by
their languages, as to their affinity with the principal nations of Europe.
Their languages form an important branch of tlie great Indf-European
family, and embrace the Persuin, Pushtu, Biluchee, Knulish, Ossitiniau,
and Armeuian. A Semitic language — the Pehlvi— is supposed to have
been predominant at a very remote period in Persia, though it originnte<l
In the provinces bordering on Assyria ; but under what ciicumatajiceB it
became the general language of Media is still matter of conjectnre. (See
under " Persia. ") A yet more ancient language ia the Persepolitan.atrue
Medo-Persian idiom, vestiges of which are preserved in arrow-headed or
cuneiform obaraoterB (like those of Assyria) on the monumental inscrip-
tions recently diacotei«d among the ruins of ancient Persian cities. The
Zend language, now eitinct, was another Medo-Pereian tongue, and a
sister dialect of the Sanscrit. It seema to have been the language of
Zoroaster, and ia still pnrtialtT preserved in the sacerdotal books of the
Guebres or Parsees. The earliest religion of the Medo-Peraian nations
was fire-worship, but they are now, with few exceptions, followers of
Mohammed— the Nestorians and wandering Armenians being the only
nation of Ibis stock by whom Christianity has been received.
The SurD-Aralrian or Stmitie natious are chiefly confined to this con-
tinent, and especially to its south-western angle— viz., Arabia, Syria, and
the buin of the EaphmteH and Tigris. In perfection of physical confer-
i_k: ^_i !___. _t__._.^^g(g jg
Bsof the
18 uniform. The
Syrians, who still preserve their lineage pore and uDnuDgled among the
mounteini of KordistAn, have a f^ complexion, with ^y eyes, red
beard, and a robust frame. The wandering Arab of the Desert is thin
and tantcnlar in fonn, with deep-brown skin and large black eyes ; in
the valley of the Jordan he has a dark akin, course haiTj and flattened
fiMtnroi, Mmewhat resembling the Kegro typo. IheJewieeasily dinia-
358 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
guished, in whatever country he takes up his abode, by his long oval face,
and the peculiar cast of his physio^omy, though his hair is found of all
shades, from jet-black to red. The Semitic lan^^ges are remarkably
few in number, but, as a compensation for this, they can claim the
highest antiquity, and ore spread over an immense portion of the surface
of the earth. Thev extend, without interruption, from the Persian Gulf
and Lake Urumiah to the Atlantic, and from the Mediterranean and
Mount Taurus to an undefined distance into the interior of Africa, where
they come in contact with the Hamitic or African family. They are
hounded on the east and north by the Indo-European or Japhetic family,
and at one point (Asia Minor) come in contact with the Turkish — a Finno-
Tartarian tongue. From the earliest times they were native in Palestine,
Phoenicia, Syria, Mesopotamia, Babylonia, and Arabia — ^thus extending
from the Tigris to the Mediterranean, and from the Armenian Mount^ns
to the south coast of Aj*abia. The Phcenicians sent colonies at a very re-
mote age to numerous islands and shores of the Mediterranean, and thus
carried their language from T>Te and Sidon to the Pillars of Hercules ;
while the Arabians, on the other hand, carried their language across the
Red Sea into Ethiopia.
Table of Semitic Languages.
The Hebrew or Phoenician Branchy including —
Canaanitish or pure Hebrew, in Canaan.
Phoenician and Punic, in Phoenicia and Carthage.
Samaritan, in the Kingdom of Samaria, forming a connecting link
between the Hebrew and Aramean branches.
The Aramean or Syrian Branchy viz. —
Clialdee or East Aramean, in Mesopotamia.
Syriac or West Aramean, in Syria.
Modem Syriac, a corrupt dialect of the Syriac, is still preserved
among the mountains of Armenia, Persia, and Mesopotamia.
Th£ A rabian Branch —
Koreish, orginally spoken in North Arabia, the parent of Modem
Arabic.
Hamyaritic, the parent of the Ekhkili, the ancient dialect of South
Arabia.
Modem Arabic, in Arabia, Syria, and Northern Africa.
Ekhkili, spoken by a mountain tribe in HacLnunaut.
Gheez or Ethiopic, derived from the Hamyaritic, was anciently spoken
in Ethiopia (Abyssinia), but is now superseded by its two dialects,
the Tigr^ and Amharic.
The ancient Egyptian, with its descendant, the f Joptic, were also
allied grammatically to the Semitic group.
ASIATIC TURKEY.
Boundaxies.— N., Transcaucasia, the Black Sea, and Sea of
Maimora ; W., the iEgean Sea, Levant, IsdimiiB of Smei. iu
the Red Sea ; S., the Mediterranean, Arabia^ and .tha. I
I
Gulf ; and K, Persia and Transcaucasia. Lat. 12" 40' — 12°
N., Ion. aC-^S" E.
Aleppo, one of the principal commercial emporiuina of tlie Ottaman
Empire, h situated almost exactly is the centre of tlii& wide area, if we
omit Hedjaz and Yemen. It is iu tlie same latitude as San Francisco,
North Csjolina, Gihraltar, Algiers, Malta, Bhodea, Mosul, Teheran, and
Ktng-ki-tao in Corea ; and in the same longitnde as Moscow, Kertoh,
"' Gondar, and the mouth of the river Zambesi. Its Ejctreme length,
S70"m
Ana and Popolatlon.— Tlie area is estimated at 671,9!>T sq. m.,
and the population at 13,18'i,000. Hence Ottoman Asia, though
fiTe and a half times larger than the British Isles, is grestlj exceeded
hi population by England without Walea.
BniCUM. — That of Asia Minor is almost nholly monntainons,
baving B lii;!h table-land in the interior, and narrow plains along the
sea-ooast. In Armenia the surface ia a snccesaion of high mountain-
Ohains and elevated valleys. In Syria the weatem part ia traversed
bj a great chain of mountains, while the eaatera is an immense
d««rt plain. Mesopotamia consists partly of a conticuatiou of the
great Syrian Dasort, and partly oC rich ollnvial soil once profusely
watered by canals, but now unprodactive through inactivity and
mi^oTernment.
Political and Natnral DlTlalonB. — The Ottoman Empire in Asia
comprl("'9 five great natnral diviaiona — viz., 1. Turkish Annenis, in
the N.E., now (since 137S) separated from the Boaaian dominions
by the Arna or Arnx, and a line stretching N.N.W. from Narriman
to Ualrialos on the Blai:li Sea. S. Asia Minor, in the N.'VV., be-
tween Turkish Armenia and the ^eean Sea, and the Black Sea and
the Meditenanesn. 3. Syria, includiSK Falestine, in the S.W.,
skirting the whole eastern ahore of the Mediterranean from Mount
Amanus to Arabia Petrcea, and extending eastward to the Euphmtes
and the Syrian Desert. 4. Mesopotamia (including Irak Aralii and
A! Jezira), and Turkish Kurdiatau, in the S.E., between Persia and
the Syrian Desert, and comprising almost the entire basin of the
Euphrates and Tigris. S. Arahistan (including Arabia Fetrtea, the
Hedjai, and Yemen), akirtiug the E. coast of the fied Sea from
Syria to the Gulf of Aden. The Political Divisions, which are
named ptahaties, vary greatly in number and magnitude, according
to the Tarytng power of thrir reapeotive governors.
ITrebikohij.— TrabiiondOO, Eizehad (N. coaal).
PEsEBOiTM. — ErsniDm 65 il, Erxiugan 15 (W. Euphrates).
" ■ - 'i-fln AnlishfL. Van).
360 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Asia Minor.
SiVAS or Room.— Sivas 25, Kaisarieh 10 (Eizil Innak), Amasia
20, Tokat 35 n., Marsivan 30 n. (Yeshil Irmak), Arab Gir 80
(Euphrates).
Anatolia.— Smyrna 150 (G. of Smyrna), Sinope 10 vnorih coast),
Kutaya 50 n. (Sakaria), Angora 15 (Mnrtadabad), Eankari 18 n.
(Kizil Irmak), Kastarauni 12 (Kara Sn), Tosia 16 (Devrek), Scutari
60 (Bosporus), Brusa 60, Muhalitch 11 n. (Soa of Marmora), Scala
Nova 20 (west coast), Manissa 60 (Kodus), Ak Hissar 6 (Phrygius),
Alia Shehr 15 (Coganos), Aidin 80, Kara Hissar 60 n. (Mendereh).
Adana. — ^Adana 20 (Sihoon), Tarsus 7 (Cydnus).
Karamania.— Konieh 50 n. (Lake Beg-Shehr), Karaman 7 (west
of Lake Ak Gol).
Marash. — Marash 18 (Jyhoon).
Cyprus?— Lefkosia 12 (Pediseus).
Syria, including Palkstinb.
Aleppo. — Aleppo 70 (Koik), Iskendemn or Scanderoon (G. of
Scanderoon), Antioch or Antaki 18 (Orontes), Aintab 20 (60 miles
N. Aleppo).
Tripoll — Tripoli 18, Latakia 7 (coast).
Acre. — Acre or Akka 10, Beirout 100, Saida or Sidon 6, Sur or
Tyre 5, Kisarieh (coast), Baalbec 2 (Leontes), En-Nasirah or
Nazareth 3 n. (Kishon), Sebustieh or Samaria, Nablons or Shechem
8 (Arsuf).
Gaza. — Gaza or Guzzeh 15, Jaffa or Joppa 25 (coast).
Damascus. — Damascus or Esh Sham 120 (Burada), Hamah 80,
Hems 30 n. (Orontes), Palmyra or Tadmor (in an oasis in the Syrian
Desert), Jerusalem 25 (Kedron), Hebron or El-Khalil 10 (Eshcol),
Beit Lahm 4 (Sorek), Jericho or ErUia n. (Jordan).
Mesopotamia and Turkish Kurdistan.
Baghdad.— Baghdad 100 (Tigris), Bassorah 60, (Shat-eI-Amb)»
Shuk-el-Shuyuk 10, Hillah or Babylon 10, Hit 7, Anah 9
(Euphrates).
DiYARBEKR. — Diyarbekr 14, (Tigris), Eerkiaiyili, T^Vlrfih 8
(Euphrates), Harran or Haran, Orfah 80 (Belikh).
Turkish Kurdistan. — Mosul 30 (Tigris), Arbel 0 n. (Gzwt &]i).
Arabistan.
Arabia Petrjsa.— Tor (G. of Suez), Akaba (O. of AUm^ SmJMJtf
Petra (Wady Mousa). , " '.. ■
Hedjaz.— Mecca 45 n., Yembo 7, Jiddah 2S (B«d AmiV
15 (interior).
Yemen.— Sana 40, Damar 25, Taas 10 (Infttfi'
* Annexed to the Brltiih Ibnpln !
301
DeMripUva Notas.— Asiatic Turkey containa four towns (S
Damascus, Beirout, Baghdad) above 10(1,000 inhatitantB ;
tween 100,000 wid 60,000 (Trebiiond, Manissa, Erzroum, Kutays,
BruBs, Scutari, Kuja HisBar, Konieli, Aleppo, Baasorah) ; and twenty
between GO, 000 and 20,000.
Armenia. — TreliiEoiid is au important fortified sea-port, and tlie n&tn-
ral entrepSt of tha European trade with Armenia, Nortli Persia, and
TranscBucasia : itwasberethat Xenophon, with his tan thousaaii Greeks,
reached tlie coast, on tbeir memorable retreat after the battle of Cunaza.
Eraronm, the principal city of Turkish ijmenia, has eitensive trade with
bU the adjacent countries, and is a chief halting-station of caravans tia^
velliDg from Teheran to Mecca. EaiB, near the Knssian IhiDtier, taken
tiy the Bnssiana in 1B55, after a gallant defeacs bj the Turks. Van is «
fortified city with a flourishing trade, and po.'sesses eorae remarkable
■Dtiqnities, which havB been attributed to Semiramis. Betlis, with
msnufafturss of cotton cloths celebrated for their bright red colour: near
it the army of Solyman the MagniQcent was defeated by the Persians in
IQM.
Abu. MiKoa. — SItbj haa manufactures of coarse woollen and other
fabrics, with a considerable transit trade. Kaisnrieh, near Mt. Arjish,
lias iron mines, and is the commercial entrepSt for a lai^e extent of coun-
try. IcdcBt, a considerable depQt for agricultural produce, has manufao-
tnres of silk and calicoj and s copper refinery. Arab Oir, a thriving town
on t^e route between Trebizond. ^d Aleppo. Bmyrna, the capital of
Asiatic Turkey, and one of the largest and richest cities in the empire :
it< foreign trade la very eitensive, eBpecially with great Britain, Anstria,
France, and the United States ; it is the rendezvous of merchants from
all parts of the world, and the residence of consuls from moat of the
Eurapean States : ita imports alons are valued at £4,000,000 annually : it
cdaima to be tiie birthplai^ of Homer, occupies a distingnlsbed place in
the early history of Christianity, was the scene of the labours ar^
tyrdom of Polycarp, and is the only one of the great ancient citiei.
western coast of the peninsula which has survived to this day.* Slnopa) 1
long famous for its couuneree, eontinnes to be the beet p""" "~ "- ""
coast of Asiatic Turkey; here, in November 18S3, th ,
emerging from Sevastopol, attacked and deatrnved a Turkish sonadroiir 9
consisting of thirteen ships, lying at anchor in the roadstead, when four
thousand Turks were cruelly butobered. Entaya, a populous city, sonaij
times regarded as the oapitat of Anatolia, has uuraeroiis mosqnei, puhlf^^
baths, and khans, and a Inrce tniile in gonti" hnir, wc«Jl, and agricoltnJl
-jtroduco. Ar^nr?. ' •■■ ■■ 'r- "■■■ "■■- -■•'■-- ' — '^tijned fromtl
Kjs usually ' ■-■ T.he seattf
M British '
KdUdofDi'.
362 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
is an important commercial city, and next in rank to Smyrna, with which
it is now connected by a railway. Adana has a trade in wool, cotton,
com^ wine, and fniit. Tarsus, a celebrated city, and the ancient capital
of CUicia, was the birthplace of St Paul, and many other illustrious men.
Xonieh (Iconium) was visited by St Paul in his missionary travels : in
the middle ages it was one of the greatest cities in Asia Minor^ and is yet
a place of considerable trade.
Syria and Palestine. — Aleppo, the principal city in North Syria,
rose to importance on the destruction of ralmyra, and became the great
emporium of trade between Europe and the East. It has long been cele-
brated for its silk and cotton manufactures, and for its productive gar-
dens. Iskendenm or Scanderoon has the best harbour on the Sjrrian
coast. Antioch (Turk. Antaki), once the proud capital of Syria, and
second to no city in Asia, was one of the earliest strongholds of the Chris-
tian faith : here the disciples of our Lord were first called Christians,
though now it does not contain a single Christian church. Tripoli (anc.
Tripolis), at the foot of a spur of Mount Lebanon, is surroundea by lux-
uriant gardens and remains of the architecture of the middle ages : the
principal exports are soap and sponges. Acre, Akka, or St Jean d'Acre,
the ancient Ptolemais, near the loot of Mount Carmel, is a place of great
natural strength, and has always been regarded as the key of Palestine :
it is celebrated for the memorable sieges it has sustained, but was reduced
to a heap of ruins by the British fleet in 1840. Belroiit is the port of
Damascus and the Lebanon, and has more commerciiJ activity than any
other SjTian port : valuable mines of coal and iron have been found in
the vicinity. Saida (anc. Sidon), probably the most ancient, and for a
long time the most powerful, city of Phoenicia, till eclipsed by its colony
Tyre: it was long famous for its manufactures of glass, a substance which
it is said was first invented here. Bur, or Tyre, soon eclipsed its parent
Sidon, and became one of the greatest and most famous cities of toe an-
cient world : as early as the 11th century before the advent of Christ the
Tyrians had become famous for their skill in various manufactures and
arts : it was successively besieged by Shalmaneser and Nebuchadnezzar,
and in B.C. 322 it was taken and sacked by Alexander l^e Oreat : the
wars of the Crusades completed its ruin, ana its site is now oooupied by
a miserable village, which exports a little tobacco, cotton, charcoal, and
fueL The downfall and permanent desolation of Tyre is one of tho most
memorable accomplishments of prophecy which the aimals of the worid
exhibit. Kisarien (Csesarea), memorable in the early history of Ohiii-
tianity as the place where the Grentiles were first received into the Cfazii-
tian (5hurch. En Nasirah, the ancient Nazareth, where the paranti of
Jesus resided, and where He lived till the commencement of His mfaditiy:
it is a small, well-built town, containing about 8(XM) inhabitanta. Sobiii-
tieh, the ancient Samaria, founded by Omri, king of lanel, B.O. 9S4^ mw
the capital of the ten tribes till they were canied away bj Bhalmaneeer,
B.C. 721 : it is now a mere village surrounded by gardens «id plantatioDB.
Nablous, the ancient Shechem and Neapolis, the capital of ine Kingdom
of Israel before Samaria, and the chief seat of the sWmftrftii ironh^ till
the nation embraced Christianity : the inhabitmti axe engaged in the
manufacture of soap and cotton fabrics. Gan^ a thriving town on the
S. W. coast, with manufactures of soap and cotton fkbiios, and - ' ' *
entrepdt for the caravans passing between Egypt and 8t*<
of the five chief cities of the Philistines ; the scene t^
famous exploits, and of his death ; and near it FIUVti
of Ethiopia. Jaffa (anc. Joppa)^ the port of Jenual
: TL-KKEv. 3C3
Eom, fruits, and coral : Jaffa figures in the history of ttie Crusades, and nas
the scene of the faithleaa nmsEtacre of its gnrrison by Napoleon I. ill 1799:
it is also celebrated aa the place where Jonah embHrked for Tarahish, and
where Peter Imd his deeplv ti^ificant vision, DamBacna, the principal
t ity in Syria, in a beantiim plain at the eastern foot of Anti-Lebanon ; il
is regaidsd by many aa the loost ancient city in the world, and it is cei'-
tainly one of the earliest that attained to ooDBequence : at ita inmieusa
liaznara may always be seen the rcpresontatives of all dvilised nations,
nnd above 200 merchants are here permanently settled : fotalgn trade is
now ostried on hy the fine new macadamised road to Beirout, opened in
1303, which is 75 miles in length. Hamah.the Hamath of Scriptnre,
i-ne of the most pleasant towns of Syria, cairj'ing on a brisk trada with
the Arabs of the desert, and having manufactures of silk, cotton, and
woollen atnfi^. Eema, or Homs, waa celebrated for its great temple of
the snn : it was also the scsno of a decisifa battle between Anrelion and
the famous Qaeen Zenobia, a.d. 272. Falmyrn, the Tadmor of ScriptniB,
liuilt by King Solomon in an oasis in the Syrian Desert, midway between
the Euphrates and the Mediterranean, was pre-eminently a city of mer-
chants, who eold to the western world the prodncts of India and Arabia :
a few mnd cottages mark the spot where "the city of palma"oQce stood;
bnt the siuTounding ruins are the admiration of all travellers through the
liesert; the most remarkable of these remains consist of portions of a
temple of the sun, which had 390 Corinthian columns of white marble,
60 of whidi are etul entire. JeruaJem, by far tlie moet ijiterestlng and
renowned city in the world, having been the site of the most imporiant
events recorded in the annals of history : the date of its origin is wholly
unknown, bnt it eiisted in the time of Abraham, when Melthizedek was
ila sovereign : it was the capital of the Israelitisb empire under David
and Solomon, when it became the pemianeot centre of the true religion :
after the division of the empii« under Kehoboam it remained Vtie capital
i>f the kingdom of Jndah till the time of the captivity, b.o. 68S : here
the Saviour tanght, here He wrought miracles, and here He Buffered : aflfli:
leaving been the scene of horrors unparalleled in the history of the huuian
race, Jerusalem was abandoned to the Romans, who levelled It to tliB
grouaiJ, A.D. 70; it was rebuilt by Hadrian, i-D. 136; captured by the
PenlaDsin614; by- the Saracens, under Omar, in 637; by the Cmsadras
iu 1099; recaptured bySaladin in 1187; and has ever SLUce ir '"-" "
under the galling yoke of the Turks : the principal buildings
Mosque of Omar, on the ilta of the Temple of Jehovah, and the
of the Holy Sepnlchra, which is erroneously si^poaed to ntark the se
It where the ct
ving been built "
inwn of venerable m
1 JamBalem and B
-t by high and f
364 POLITICAL GEOGIUrUY.
400 tons can come up to the city. Hillah, a small town on the Euphrates^
60 miles S. of Baghdad, among the ruins of ancient Babylon, the first
theatre of empire, and one of the most magnificent and famous cities of
the ancient world. Diyarbekr, or Diarbekr — ^here are some copper-works
and manufactures of cotton ana silk. Harran, the Haran of Scripture,
where Abraham and his family resided for a time on their journey to-
wards Canaan. Orfiah, the famous Ur of the Chaldees, the birthplace of
Abraham, Nahor, and Lot. Mosul, a considerable town with a brisk
and flourishing trade, but chiefly interesting on account of its proximity
to the ruins of ancient Nineyeh, recently explored with such brilliant
results by M. Botta and by our indefatigable countryman, Layaid : their
excavations have brought to light the sculptured remains of several im-
mense palaces of the ancient kings of Nineveh, most of which are deposited
in the British Museum. Arbelor Erbil, the ancient Arbela, where Alex-
ander the Great obtained his final and decisive victory over Darius, B.0. 331.
Arabistan. — Tor or Tur, a small town on the caravan route from
£g}'pt to Mecca, where the water is better than at any otherplace on the
Red Sea. A few miles inland is Jebel-at-Tdr, the Mount Horeb of the
Old Testament. Akaba, or "the descent," a small town, built for tiie
protection of the pilgrim caravans from Cairo to Mecca. Near it» in an-
cient times, stood Ezion-Gteber, famous as the port where Solomon and
Jehoshaphat built fleets to carry on a commerce with Ophir. Half-way
between Akaba and the Dead Sea are the famous niins of Petra, the an-
cient capital of Idumsea, surrounded by almost inaccessible precipices.
and entered by a single narrow gorge. It was a City of great extent ana
magnificence, and commanded a large share of the traffic of the East
Some fine ruins of its public buildings still remain. Mecca, capital of the
Hedjaz, and the most celebrated city of Arabia is famous as having been
the birthplace of the arch-impostor Mohammed (a.d. 671), and the cradle
of the Mussulman religion. Here stands the Beitulah or " house of God,"
the grand centre of the Mohammedan world, containing the Kaaba or
sanctuary, an oblong massive structure of rough stone, alleged to have
been built by Abraham, and the object of their deepest veneration. Mo-
hammedans only are allowed to enter Mecca, and all persons of that faith
are required to make a pilgrimage hither at least once in their lives.
Jiddah, the port of Mecca, is the principal commercial entrepdt <rf W.
Arabia. Medina, a celebrated city, 245 miles N. of Mecca, was the seat of
Mohammed's empire : hither he fled from Mecca in a.d. 622, and thatirear,
termed the Hegira or " Flight," has ever since formed the great eia m all
parts of the Mohammedan world. Medina contains the Irophef 8 tomb.
Sana is a flourishing town, and carries on a ereat trade in codSee with
Persia, India, and Turkev. Mocha, a fortified seaport^ ehieflv od»>
brated for its coflee, the finest in the world : about 10,000 tons of coffee
are exported annually, besides considerable quantities of dateiy gamfli
senna, balm, ivory, and gold-dust.
Capes. — Injeh, the northmost ^int ; Baba, the westmoet point ;
Krio, the most south-westerly point ; Anamori the most aoatherly
point of Asia Minor.
Islands.— Marmora, in the Sea of Mannora; Lesbos, Soio^ Sunos,
Nicaria, Patmos, Cos, Bhodes— all off the west coast of Anatolia ;
Cyprus, in the Mediterranean, south-east of Asia Minor.
Many of these islands are highly celebrated i.SflHaof was O"^
chief centres of Ionian civilisation^ literatms^ and vt; Vot:!^
ASIATIC TURKEY, 8G5
oeleTirated oa having lieen tlie birthplace of Pjtliagtiraa. Paliaot will lie
aver memorable as the scene of the Apoatle John's banisiunsnt, aiid as
the place where the voloine of inspiration was completed. Rliodei, one of
the tsreest islands in the whole Arcbipel^o, in well watered and fertile,
and celehrated fram the remotest Bjitiqmt7 as a seat of commerce,
Davigation, literature, and tlie arts ; but now reduced to a state of abject
poverty bjr the devastations of war and the tyranny and rapacity of its
Turkish rulera i its capital, Bhodea, with a pogmlatioa of la,000, was in
tncient times famous for its huge brazen statue of Apollo, and in modem
times it is noted as one of the lost retreats ot the kiughta of 3t John of
Jerusalem, who held it from 1310 to 1B22. Cyprvt, r large and celebisl^
island of the Mediterranean, south of Cilicia, area 4500 si^. miles, popula-
tion 200,000, of whom about two-thlrda are Christiana, and ona-thlrd
Mussulmans ; the surface, in many parts sterile and uninhabited, is
traversed hom east to west by two mountain-ranges, which attain their
maximum height in Mount Santa Croce {Olympia). 8000 feet above the
level of the sea : capital L^hnda. near the centre, with 16,000 inhabitants.
Bess, Btraita, and Onlft. — Blaclr Eea, N. of Asia Minor; Bosporus,
Sea of Mannora, and the Hellespont, between Enropeoo and Asiatic
Turkey ; Gulfs of Adramjti, Smyrna, Seals Hova, and Cos, W. of
Anatolia; Gulfs of Maliri, Adalia, andScanderoon, S. of Asia Minor j
the Levant, W. of Syria | the Persian Gulf, S.E. of Mesopotamia,
Uoimtaln System.— (See under "Asia," par. 9.)
BlTBT Bystem and Tow7«. — (See after " Biluohiatan.'')
lAkM. — Van, in the S. of Armenia ; Egerdir, in the S.E. of Ana-
tolia ; Tiu-gul, N. of Ronieh 1 Bahr-el-Merdj, near Damascus;
Bahr-el-Hulfli ( Wateri of Merom), near the Bonroes of the Jordan ;
Lake of Tiberias, E. of Galilee; Dead Sea {Ai^ltites), S.&. of
Palestine.
Most of these lakes are salt, and have no ontlet. Late Van, the largest,
has an area of 1200 aq. miles i elevation above the sea, 5W feet; ita
waters are s^t ; it contains ma^ islands, and the only llehery in it is
that of a kind of sardines. The Loie of Tiberiiu, or Sea of GalUee, is tha
most interesthig; sheet of water in the world, [h>ni having been so often
navigated by the Saviour and the fishermen ot Galilee whom He chose to ^
be His Apostles : here He walked on the billowe, and here He stilled th* I
winde andUie wavei - while on its western shore stood most of the towns d
which He frequented durinE His mhiirtry— as Tiberias, Bethaaida, Chor* 9
■ till, and CapeluBDm : the lake ia traveraed by the Jordan iro:a S. to B.: '1
— ,ters are fresh, and teem with fish ; and it has now been ascertained I
a surface is 053 feet beldw the level of the Mediteironean. Th« 1
_ Sia or L]^e A^haltitaa— area 360 sq. milee— ia also very remuk> I
e as being the saltest body of water known, with the eiception oC-fl
" ' ' Asia Minor ; and as occupjing the epot where once stood thk 9
I of the plain, Sodom, Gomorrhs, Admoh, and Zelmim: th^
_.._ _. . BO intensely salt that no living creature can live in them, fl(_^
Ebnoyont tiiat men bathing in them find themselTes floated like oorlc ■!
a BDullnJakB hare previonilf .
36G POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
GUxnate, cold and humid in the monntainons regions, but wami
and delightful in the plains and valleys. In the valley of the Jor-
dan, especially in the vicinity of the Dead Sea, the heat of summer
is excessive, as also in the southern portion of Mesopotamia. In
Palestine and along the Syrian coast rain falls at intervals firom the
middle of September to the end of ApriL During the dry season the
sky is uniformly clear, and the night-dews heavy. The mean annual
temperature at Jerusalem is 62°. 6» summer 73*. 8, and winter 49°. 6.
The peaks of Mount Ararat are covered with perpetual snow, as also
the loftiest summits of the Lebanon range.
llinerals. — All the useful metals are found in the mountain-ranges.
In Armenia, copper, lead, and alum occur, and some silver mines are
wrought ; rock-salt is found in considerable quantities, and mineral
waters abound. In Asia Minor, copner, silver, lead, alum, nitre, and
rock-salt. In Syria, iron, coal, and limestone. Palestine is, in gene-
ral, of a hard contorted limestone formation, abounding in immem$e
cravems. Oolitic limestones and indurated chalk prevail west of the
Jordan. Rock-salt abounds near the Dead Sea.
Botany. — The whole of Asiatic Turkey, with the exception of
Mesopotamia and Kurdistan, is included within Schouw s third
phyto-geographic region, otherwise called the Mediterranean Region,
the characteristic vegetation of which is noticed under ** Europe,"
par. 17. The flora of Armenia is said to resemble that of the Tyrol
and Switzerland. That of Asia Minor, especially the west and south
of Anatolia, is extremely beautiful, and will bear comparison with
the vegetation of Sicily and Spain. This is the most celebrated
region in the world for the production of opium. In 1867 Smyrna
alone exported 4000 chests of opium. In Syria, the olive, fig, citron,
orange, pomegranate, and vine, are especially luxuriant in the lower
grounds; while natural groves of sycamore, mulberry trees, ever-
green oaks, cypresses, and cedars, clothe the uplands. Palestine was
that '*good land " which God chose for His people, and is celebrated
as *'aland of wheat and barley, of vines and fig-trees and pome-
granates, a land of oil and honey." Mesopotamia is celebrated for
its dates, which form an important article of subsistence ; and large
crops of wheat, barley, rice, and maize, with tobacco, hemp, flax,
and cotton, are produced.
Zoology. — The native zoology of Asiatic Turkey does not present
any remarkable species that are not equally found in the a4jacent
extremities of Africa and Asia. It forms, together with Persia, the
Transition Province of the second zoological kingdom of modem
naturalists. (See under "Asia," par. 18.) The lion, once so com-
mon, has wholly disappeared from the countries W. of the Enphrates.
In Mesopotamia occur the striped hyena, lynx, panther, buffalo, and
wild boar ; while jackals, bears, wolves, and wild hogs are met with
in Asia Minor. The leopard is still found in the interior of Pales-
tine ; the Syrian bear in Lebanon ; the hedgehogs hare, mole, wolf,
in numerous localities. The domestic aninuJa comprise the camdv
— Three diBtinct raeea of people are found in Asiatic
Turkuy— viz., the Turkish, Semitic, and Caucasian. The TurkUh
race includES tlie Osmanlee, wlio form S-lOtlia of the population of
Asia Minor ; and the Turcomans, who ate verynnmeroQa m Mesopo-
tamia and tie north ot Syria. Both these trilies speak the Turkish
language, and profess the Mobamaedaii faith. Tu the Semiiic rsco
helong the stationary Arabs, who constitute the majority in Svria,
Palestine, Arahistan, and Mesopotamia ; and the Betlouins, or 'W'an-
dering Arabs, of the Syrian Desert : these speak the Arabic languaj^,
and are followers of Mohammed. The Druses, Maronites, and Ue-
tualis, in Lebanon and Cmle-Syria, are also regarded as of Semitic
f*n, together with the iNestoriaus in the highlands of Eurdistan
UesopoCamia, who are Christians, and speak the Medom Sjrinc ;
and, lastly, the Jews, who, to the number of 175,000, are scattered
over Syria, Palestine, oud other provinces. The Caiaaman race com-
Srshends the Greeks, who form a large traction of the population ot
yria, Palestine, and Asia Minor, and helonii; to the Greek Church :
the Armenians, who constitnte about l-7th of the population of
I Armenia, speak the Armenian langnage (which is radically connected
with the Persian), and profess a oorrnpt form of Chriatianity ; the
! Kurds, who are generally Mohammsdaoa, with a, lan^age reaem-
I bline Modem Persian ; and the Yezidees, or Devil-worshippers, in the
' ~ jrtn of Mesopotamia.
A.RABIA.
Bonndaiies. — N., Turkey in Asia ; W., Arabistan ; S. and
" &E., the Gnlf of Aden aiid the Arabian Sea ; E., the Gulf of
Oninn and the Persian GulL Lat. 12° 41/— 33" N. ; Ion.
3S° 30"— 50° 49' E.
Muscat (cap. of the dominions of the Imam of Muscat), oa tlie eastern
ftnntioT, forming the key to the Persian Gulf, and situated on tbe Tropio
of Cancer, which divides Arabia into two nearly equal parts, is in the
■atae lat. as Assouan, Bhopal, Burdwan, Canton, and Havana in Cuba.
Area, and Population. — The area, including Arahistan, is estimated
at 1,210,743 eq. m., and the population at 8,000,000. Arabia has,
therefore, ten times the area of the British Isles, bnt only oae-sixth
of their population. The extreme length of the peninsula, from Suez
to Bas-al-nad, is 1800 m. ; and the extreme breadth, from the Strait
of Bab-el-Mandeb to Cape Muasendom, neai'ly 1200 ra.
Snilftoe and Honntalna. — This immense peninsnla, the Jajret-el-
Arab of the natives, and ArahisUm of the Turks and Persians, con-
tia» for the most part of a huge plateau, which attains in some
368 POLITICAL 6E0GRAPHT.
places the height of 8000 ft. A great mountain-chain, prolonged
from the Syrian Lebanon, extends along the entire W. coast to the
Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb ; and another, nearly at right-angles with it,
skirts the S. coast to the province of Oman : here the Jebel-Akhdar,
the culminating point of this chain, attains the elevation of 6010 ft.
Between these ranges and the western and southern coasts runs a
narrow belt of arid lowland, called the TeJvama^ extremely unpro-
ductive ; but the slopes of the mountains, between this belt and the
plateau, are highly fertile and richly cultivated. The whole interior
IS desert and hopelessly barren, with the exception of a few small
oases. There are no rivers, properly so called, in Arabia ; but springs
partly supply the deficiency, and impart to the oases around tnem a
surprising degree of fertility.
Political Divisions.— Ptolemy divided the country into Arabia
Petraea, in the N.W. ; Arabia Felix, in the W. and S. ; and Arabia
Deserta, embracing all the remainder ; but this partition is unknown
to the inhabitants, who recognise only the following divisions : —
Hadramaut. — Makalla 5, Sbahr 6, Aden 20 (S. coast).
Oman.— Muscat 60, Muttra 20, Sohar 9 (G. of Oman).
Lachsa.— Lachsa 15, (Aftan), El Katif 6, Grane 10 (Persian Gulf),
Manama 5 (I. Bahrein).
Wahabite Emfibb. — Riyad, Deraieh 15 n. (Aftan), Anegfth (N.W.
of Deraieh).
Descriptive Notes. — Ifakalla, the so-called cap. of Hadiamant,
has a good harbour, and affords supplies to ships on their wa^ to
India. Aden, about 100 m. E. of the Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb, is a
valuable possession of Great Britain, as it forms the chief coaling
station on the steamboat passage to India. It was captured by the
British from the native Sultan in 1839, and contains now aboat
20,000 inhabitants, including a garrison of 2000 Indian troops. It, is
situated on the crater of a volcano, 123 feet above the sea, and its
fortifications are reckoned impregnable. Muscat, a fortified maritime
city, capital of the dominions of the Imam, who is the most powerftil
sovereign in Arabia. It is the grand commercial emporium or eastern
Arabia, and has a population of about 50,000. Xnttra, an important
town with shipbuilding docks. Sohar has a considerable trade in fraits.
Lachsa, or Fouf, is well watered, and surrounded by plantatioiis of date
trees. Slyad, or Biad, cap. of the country of the Wanabees, or Moham-
medan reformers, is situated in the most elevated part of the interior
(called the Nejd), and is well watered.
Gapes, Islands, and Gulfs. — See under " Asia."
Climate.— The climate of Arabia is exceptionally ho^ uid at tiie
same time the driest in the world. The year is diyided into three
seasons — summer, spring, and winter. The mean anniul tempjoratore
of the entire peninsula is reckoned at 80* Fahr. ; that of Jaaiuxy
from 60** to 70° ; and that of July from 90" to 96*. The TAamOt
or coast region skirting the Bed Sea, ia celebnted •• finmiiiff paxt of
the hottest region of ttie earth's enr&ce. In the elevatv<l «-•
however, the temperature is more modenta. T*^
ABABLA. 3G9
hlrlndecl in the ereat rainleRa lone ivliiii eKteai- fmci tbe Atlantic,
throDgli the Snhsra. aoid Egypt, to the Pacifii; Oeenn, yet in the
elevated interior rain falls copiooEly far three months in the year.
The rivere are aeldom jierennial : they floit only in winter, irhile in
EQDuner their hed£ foiTn the only roDiie across l^e conntiy. During
the intense snmnier-heat, the hot wind of tbe desert, called the
■imoom or Bamiel, bluKS troia the interior io all directiaiifi.
nnarals. — These are little knoim, lint DotDprise the onpt, emFtald,
blue alabaster, granite, UmeEitone, basalt and other volcanic prodoc-
tioitB 1 iron in Yemen; alvei and lead in Oman; rock-salt near
Lobeia and in Beveral other localities.
BDtany.— Tbe S.W. angle of Amtia compriaea Schonw's " Eegiou
of Balaamic TreeE." Here the TSgetation ia tropical, tbe greater part
eonaistiiig of tiiiliRn fonuH, Tbare ar^ loany treea yielding gmns and
palm, cocoa-nut, fig, apricot, peach, plnin, apple, quince, Tiiie,
coffee-tree, tamariud, sugar-cane, ginger, cotton, and indigc The
entire remainder of the countiy belongs to the same aathor's " Desert
Eegitm." Here the flora is very poor, and cnltivotion is confined to
tbe oases, where the date-tree comes to perfection. Dhnrra, ivheat,
aud liBTley are the principal imttivated plants, together witli certain
Indian and S. Eurojiean fruits,
ZoOlOgT. — Wild onitnals are few in number, on account of the
scarcity of wood and water. The princijial beasts of prey ara
the panther, ounce, and hyena. Apes are numerouB in Temcn.
The irild asB of the desert is noted for its size and strength. The
ibex inhshits the rocicy heights, the antelope the plains, and the
jerboa and lizard the barren Bands. Among domestic animals tbe
camel of Oman is celebrated for its beauty, and the dromedary is R
nseful beast of burden. Tbe boCBe. which baa been carefully bred
for BBTetal tboosauJ years, forms an important branch of traflic
EUmography. — The people ot Arabia are a very mixed race, being
partiv descended from Ham and partly from Shem, the sous of Noali.
Sam's eldest son was Cash, and the Cusfaites appear to hare been
the earliest inhabitants of Southern Arabia, from wbicb they sent out
calDoies across tbe Bed Sea, and peopled Ethiopia (Abyssinia). The
deacendants of Sbem are principiJly the Joktanitea or Kachtanites,
who, according to tbe Arabian geographers, settled in Yemen soon
ifier tbe confusion of tongaes ; the lahmaelites, who settled E. and
tS. EL of Palestine; the ^diaaites and AmalekiteE, who in Moses'
. time occupied the peninmla of Sinai ; the Edomites and Nabatheans,
Sled Idaniea. and hud Petra for tbiir capital : the NahoritcE,
t in the " land of Ux ; " tiie Moabite^ and Ammonites, wbo
,iied the territory E. and K.E. of tliB Dead Sea. These and
T oUiws, whose prwasfi looalitipa wnnot now be datermiued, came
- Mof apet tobe tioronriiljramnlganjated, and tobe known
„«,! Ja.i-~«^,„ -'*-»b»— a people whose pbyaieal and
iglf Mod decidedly marked. In
370 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Xihysical confonnation the Arab ranks so Mgh, that by many he is
regarded as furnishing the prototype or model form of the hnman
species. The Arabs are divided into two classes — nomads or
Bedouins, who lead a wandering life, as the exigencies of their flocks
require ; and the settled Arabs, or dwellers in towns who are engaged
in commerce and agriculture.
Language, — The Arabic language, so remarkable for its copiousness
aud beauty, is the most important representative of the great Semitic
family of tongues (see "Asia," par. 19). Its roots are in general iden-
tical with those of the Hebrew ; and its inflections, though greatly more
varied and numerous, bear to that language the closest affinity. It is
the vernacular language not only of Arabia, but also of Syria, Mesopo-
tamia, Egypt, Nubia, Northern Barbary, part of Persia, and some places
on the Malabar and Coromandel coasts. It is also extensively used as
the language of religion and commerce wherever the Mohammedan faith
prevails ; and in it is written the Kortto, the sacred book of the whole
Alohammedan world.
J{eligion.—E\eT since the time of Mohammed, Islamism has been the
only religion known in Arabia. It has completely extirpated the Saba-
isni and Judaism which had previously been the prevailing forms of
worship.
Qovemment. — The Hedjaz, Yemen, and Arabia Petrsea, are nomi-
nally subject to Turkey, and the province of Oman to the Imam of
Muscat, who maintains a military force of 20,000 men and a Itu'ge
navy. The island of Kishra and the adjoining coast have been ced^
by Muscat to Persia. The rest of the country is shared among an
uncertain number of petty states. The government of the Bedouins
is strictly patriarchal in each of the numerous tribes, the chief power
in each tribe being vested in a chief or ahdkh, whose oflice is here-
ditaiy, but who may be deposed by an ambitious kinsman i^ by
tyranny or incapacity, he should become unpopular.
Manufactures and Commerce. — The former are at a lower ebb
than in any other semi-civilised country. The leading object of in-
dustry is the raising of camels, horses, goats, sheep, &c ; but the
women weave hair tent-covers and bags. In Oman are made silk
and cotton turbans, sashes, woollen and hair cloaks, canvass, arms,
earthen jars, and gunpowder. In the western and southern pro-
vinces, coarse linens, woollen fabrics, rude matchlocks and other
arms, are manufactured chiefly by foreigners. The pearl fishery of
the island Bahrein, on the coast of Lachsa, is perhaps the most ex-
tensive and valuable in the world, employing 150() vessels, and
yielding annually pearls to the value of about £150,000. The tran-
sit trade of Arabia, though gi'eatly inferior to what it was in ancient
times, is still considerable ; and large quantities of merchandise are
brought by caravans and by sea from the surrounding countries,
partly for home consumption, and partly for sale to the numerous
pilgiims who resort annually to Mecca and Medina. The Kuria
Muria islands, which belong to Great Britain, contain rich deposits
of guano.
»
I
I
Boundaries. — N., ■WestKm Turkeatan, the Caqiian. Sen,
aiitl Transcaucaaia ; W,, Asiatic Turkey ; S., Persian Gulf ; E.,
Biluchiatan and Afghanistan. Lat. 26* 27'— 40° N. ; Ion. 44°—
61° E. Ispahan, the former capital, near the centre of the kiTig-
dnm, is in the same ktittide be the Bermudas, llailtira, Tripoli,
Acre, AmritaLr, and Nankin.
Area and Fapolattoo. — The area is estimated at 648,000 sq. m.,
mid the population at 5,000,000. Persia is therefore six timea the
size of Oritat Britain, with only one-fourth its popnltitian. The
populatiQii is believed to be stestlily declining in nmnborB, owing to
the ravages of the plague, the general ahsenee of sanitary laws, and
the results of poljgamy.
Surfiioe. — The central portion is an elevated plateau, about 3000
ft high, and is traversed by niountain- ranges which in many placi
Demavend, 18,4fi4 ft.), form its northern frontier ; while the aouth-
irestcm and southern arefoiTned by the Zaf^a Mts., and a chain mn-
ning from them in a S. B, direction, parallel to the Tigris, skirting
the Persian Gulf, and finally subsiding in the great platean of the
interior. Many fertile tracts exist in the W. portion of this elevated
region, as also on the shores of tlie Caspian; but nearly all Eastern
PeraB is an ineclainiable salt desert, forming a part of that rainless
and sterile zone which extends from the great African desert to the
frontiers of the Chinese empire.
PoUtieal DivlBlons. — Persia eompriaea the following fourteen pio-
ABTHABin. — Astrabad 6 (Caspian).
M.^KANOBJiiN.- Saree 5, Balfrnsh 5, Amol 35 n. (Caspian).
Ghilas.— Keaht 50 n., Lahyan 7 (Caspianl.
AZERBIJSN.— Tabriz 200 (Aii), Urumiah 25 c, Maragah 20 n.,
Dilmin 15 n. (L. Urumiah), JQioi 30 (Kotura, a#. Kur).
Pebsiab Edbdibtak. — Kermandshah 30, Sinna 25 ((#. Kiiil
Ouian).
I.uaiBTAH.- Konmiabad 5 (Koon, ajjl. Sbrkhah).
KnuziBTAS.- Shuster B (Kunm), DLjful 15 |DizfLd). Shus or Suia
(Kerkhah).
Farbistan.- Shiraz 25 (Hocknabad), Persepilis (Bnndamir), Fasa
IB, Darabjelll 20 (8.E. Shiran), Bushira 18 (Persian Gulf).
LaribTan. — IiaTl2 n., Nackiloo, Gombroon 6, Josk (Persian Gulf).
KfHlaTASABDW. MEKKAS.*—Bunpoor (interior), Chouhar(S.E.
'Const).
Kermas.— Eermau 30 (E. L. Rakhtegau).
Yhzd.— Yeid BO (140 miles N. Kerman).
* Fonnuly bel(Hjglii]f to BiJaebldUiu
372 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Khorassan. — Meshed 100 (Tejend), Nishapur 8 (W. of Meshed),
Kabooshan 15 (Attruck).
Ieak-Ajemi.— Teheran 80 n. (Kehveh), Kasbin 40 n. (Kizil-
Ouzan), Zenjan 15 (Zenjan), Hamadan 40 n. (Kara-su), Ispahan 60
(Zendanid), Khonsur 12 (N.W. Ispahan), Kashan'SO, Koom 8 (S.W.
Teheran).
Descriptive Notes. — ^Astrabad, though admirably situated for com-
merce, has very little trade ; it is so unhealthy as to be generally calleil
''the city of the plague." Balfrush contams numerous bazaars and
caravanserais, and has a lai*ge general trade. Besht, a well-built town,
with extensive bazaars. Tabriz, surrounded by ma^iificent ^Etrdens, is
the entrepot of the trade between Persia, Russia, India, Constantinople,
and the Black Sea. Ununiah claims to be the birthplace of Zoroaster.
Maragah, noted for the cave-temples in its vicinity, and for its white
marble, which, when cut thin, is capable of being employed as a substi-
tute for window-glass. Ehoi, one of the finest towns in Persia; here
Shah Ismael totally defeated the Turks in 1514. Kermandshah, a pros-
perous town, with manufactures of carpets, swords, and muskets. Suma,
8 romantic, flourishing town, in a deep, secluded valley, filled with
orchards. Shuster was nearly depopulated by the plague in 1832. Shu
(Susa), probably the Shushan of the Book of Daniel, is said to contain
the bones of that prophet : here Alexander and his generals celebrated
their nuptials with the Persian princesses, b.c. 825: in the extensive
ruins around are found bricks and pottery with cuneiform inscriptions.
Shiraz, at one time the capital of Persia, is the birthplace of the ramous
poets Saadi and Hafiz. Persepolis, the ancient capital of the Persian
empire : here Alexander the Great found immense riches on his journey
eastward, b.o. 331, and at the end of a revel set fire to the palace with
his own hand : numerous tombs, cut out of the solid rock, are found in
the adjoining mountains, and the ruins of the city are rich with inscrip-
tions in the arrow-headed character. Murghab (Pasai^gadse) ; here
Cyrus the Great gained his decisive victory over Astyages, B.C. 559 : the
ruins contain numerous ancient remains, among which is the tomb of
Cyrus. Bushire, more properly Abu-Shehr ("father of cities"), is the
principal seaport of Persia on the Persian Gulf, and maintains an exten-
sive trade with British India. Lar, formerly capital of an Arabian
kingdom, has manufactures of arms, gunpowder, and cotton fabrics, and
the finest bazaar in Persia. Nackiloo, a small town, busily engaged in
the pearl-fishery. Kerman, carries on a trade in wool, which is cele-
brated for its fineness. Yezd, a fortified city, contains spacious bazaars,
and has manufactures of silk, cotton, and woollen goods. Meihedy in a
fertile plain, enclosed by strong walls, maintains an active trade with
Bokhara, Herat, and other places. Here is a magnificent mausoleum of
Imam Beza, and of the celebrated Haronn-al-Raschid, caliph of Baghdad,
whose reign was the Augustan era of the Arabian domimoiis. He mt
contemporary with Charlemagne, and died in 809. Hlihapiir, celebrated
for its turquoises, obtained from mines in the vicinity. TOuna, aaper-
seded Ispahan as the capital of Persia in 1798. It conaists of spleiidid
edifices and magnificent gardens, intermingled with wretched mud-built
huts. In summer the heat is so intense that the Shah, and all who
have the means, desert the city, and encamp on the pjain of Sultanla,
about 150 miles to the N.W. of it. About 25 mflei.IL of Tehsran an
the extensive ruins of Bhag^, the capital of the Ftarthiaa kisgi^ andtiw
most important city in Media^ the contemponuy of Nineveh and Bobat-
I
ana, anil t1ie birtbplace of Daroun-al-Raacliid. Sasbla, h larga, fortj-
fled, and commercial city, 90 miles N.W. of TeLeran, celebrated for ita
gropes and pistachio nuts. Hnmadui, the ancient Ecbataiis, at one time
tbs capital of tba Mediae kingdom, and afterwards (lie snmmer residence
of tbe Persian and Parthian kings. It is tlie Achmettia of tbe Book of
Ezra, and contains the reputed eepnlohre of Esther and Mordecai. Ima-
lian (ABpadana), one of the most important cities In Persia, of which it
was formerly the capital. Under Bliah Abbas the Great, who died in
1627, it was one of the richoBt and moat populona cities in Asia ; bnt
dniiog the Afghan invasion In the eighteenth centory its walls were
destroyed, and the city reduced to a s^te of decay. It now presentu a
jnelancholy spectacle of deserted halls, mined honsea, and neglected
gardens. It has nnmerous nianafactures of woven fabrics, gold and
silver wares, fireanns, sword-blades, glass, earthenware, ic, which are
Hported to India and most ports of western Asia. Easliaii, a large
town, with a myal palace and numerous manufactures.
Islands. — Karak, N.W, of Bushire; Kishm or Kishma, and Or-
muz, at the entrance of the Persian Gulf.
Jishery on its N. coast. Eu/tm Is the largest Is]
ia 70 m. long, with an average breadth of 12 m. ; population SOOO, who
■TO chiefly Araba. Ormai is only aharrenrock, butimportantaa having
lieen one of the richest commercial einporia in the East when in the pos-
■essioii of tlie Portuguese. On its S. coast is a town with a fort and a
good harbour. This was once a large and splendid city, but its trade is
now transferred to Gombroon.
8eBS, Bays, and BttBltB.— The Cnttpian Sea, formiiig a part of the
N. frontier; Persian Gulf, and Gulf of Oman, between Peraia and
Arabia ; Strait of Ormuz, connecting the Persian Gulf witli tbe Gulf
of Ormuz.
Konntalns. — For the Elbnrz and Zagros ranges, see andec " Sur-
face ;" and for the KiVKR System, under "Biluchistan."
Lakes. — Ummiali in Azerbijan ; Bakhtegan aud Maliluja in Far-
I Lake Ummiab, 85 m. long and 26 m. broad, with water intensely salt,
I and incapable of support^g any of the higher forms aC animal life, is
fUraons for its zoophytes.
CUmate.— The aliniate of Persia presents tho greatest extremes of
heat and oold. In the interior the iummera are exceaaively hot and
dry, and the wintera rigorously cold, Scarcely any rain falls, and
trees refuse to grow, except near watercourses fed b;^ springs. N, of
the Elburz Monntaina the climate is alinoat tiopicsl : a dry and
rainy season regularly alternate ; and vegetation presents a luxuri-
ance not often >eeD in much lower latitudes. The district lying be-
tween the table-laad and the Persian Golf is burnt up in sumnier
with a scorching heat. It ia called the JhAllMan, and ^rreatly re-
I •emblea tbe TtJiama of Arabia. The scsrci^ of water is, indeed,
'le greatest disadvantage un4er which Persia lies,
—Coppu in the H. provinces; lend in Fnrsand Kermaui
374: POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY,
rock-salt, coal, iron, naphtha, in many places. The most celebrated
minerals of Persia are the turquoise or calaite, found at Nishapur,
and the fine white marble of Maragah, so translucent as to be em-
ployed in windows.
Botany. — The interior is chiefly a desert, devoid of vegetation,
except in the oases, where the date-tree attains unusual luxuriance.
The principal forests are confined to the lowland region between the
Caspian and the Elburz Mountains, where are found the oak, beech,
elm, walnut, box, cypress, cedar, &c. Here also the orange, melon,
l)omegranate, cotton plant, mulberrv, sugar-cane, and vine come to
perfection. The grains raised are nee, barley, and wheat ; and the
principal other products are tobacco, opium, assafcetida, gum-am-
moniac, and other drugs, with madder, gall-nuts, &c.
Zoology. — Persia belongs zoologically to the Tittnsition Province of
continental Asia, a province which forms a connecting link between
the three zoological kingdoms of the Old "World (p. 67). Among
the V wild animals are the lion, leopard, bear, panther, wild-boar,
tiger-cat, lynx, hyena, wolf, jackal, porcupine, and the booz or
mountain goat. Domestic animals include most of the species com-
mon in Europe, with the camel and argali sheep. The horses are
very superior, and, with cattle and sheep, compose the principal
wealth of the wandering tribes.
Etlmography. — The population is very mixed : that of the towns
and settled districts is a race descended from Persians, Turks, Tar-
tars, Georgians, Armenians, Arabs, and all the other nations who
have at different periods held sway in the country. The Parsees,
who appear to preserve more fully than the rest their purity of de-
scent from the ancient Persians, are now nearly confined to the city
of Yezd and some towns in Kerman. The nomadic tribes consist of
Arabs in the S., Turcomans, Moguls, Ezbeks in the E. and N.E.,
and Kurds in the W. The settled tribes, who may be regarded as in
general the descendants of the original inhabitants, are csdled Tajiks,
and probably number about 3,000,000; while the wandering popula-
tion are designated Ilyats, and do not exceed 2,000,000.
The Langtuwes are as numerous as the races by whom the country is
peopled, but those most predominant are the Persian and Turkish. The
latter prevails in the northern and western provinces ; but even here tlie
natives are also acquainted with Persian, which is invariably the verna-
cular of the Tajiks in all parts of the country. The origin of the Per-
sian dates from the invasion of the Arabs in tne seventh century. Prior
to that period various idioms prevailed throughout the Persian empire,
of which the principal were the Pehlvi, the Farsi or Parsi, and the Deri.
The Pehlvi was closely allied to Chaldee, and was the dialect of Media ;
while the Parsi, together with its polished court-dialect the Deri, was the
language of Persia proper. But the primitive type of the whole group
is undoubtedly the Zend, a language closely allied to the Sanscrit. The
Persian is remarkable for its softness and harmony, which admirably
adapt it for the lighter forms of poetry ; and it ^ntains numerous
works both in literature and science. Of the numerous poets who have
adorned the language, Fird(![sf, Ansaii, Anwa^, and especially Saadl and
AFGHAKIS
375
HAGz, nEitives o! Shiniz, a
partraent of hiatoiy it
aaj age or peapla, f
I
e tlie best known ia Europeans. In the ile-
Bins many works which would do lioiiiiur to
__, J.. ^ those of Mirkliond, Tnharl, Abn-Said-Abdullili,
■od Mohamiued Ktisim Femlit£. The works on etliics, theology, and
jnriHpmdenca are very numerous, and those oa grammar are of a supe-
Jteliffion. — The Tajiks are Mohanimedana of the Sheah sect, wlio reject
the Buthonty of the ttrst three caliphs. Tlie Ilyata, on the contrary, are
of the Sunuite sect : while the Farseea or Guebrea are Dre-worBhippera.
The Ooreniment is despotic : the soTereign, who ia called the
Shah, is Bsaisted by a grand-viijer, who esercises control over tlie
military aDd foreign departments ; and by a lord high treasurer, nho
BuperinteDds the I'evenue and home arrangements. The chiefs of the
nomadic tribes, who are called Sheiks, are nearly independent. The
annual Sevenut, which is chiefly derived from land and cupitatioii
taxes, custom duties, tribute from wandering tribes, &c,, has been
estimated at about £2,000,000 steriing. The Armed Force, which
is vet? variable in amount, has been recently estimated at 10&,000
men, many o! whom bare received European discipline.
MatmftotnTBB tuid Commerce. —The principal manufactures are
silk fslirics of all kinds (which, since 1863, have greatly fallen off,
owitig to disease among the silkworms), jewellery, attar'^f roses ; and
in the pnnci[>al cities, shawls of goats' hair, carpets, felta, cotton
cloths, cutlery, and arms, gloss, ])ottery, leather, and saddlery. The
commerce of Persia is extensive, nohrithstanding the absence of
roads. It ia cliieSy carried on with Russia by tiia Caspian ; and
with British India by way of the Persian Gulf. The chief eiporta
■TO the native products already enumerated, together with copper
wares, ssOron, specie, skins, and sabres. Imports comprise indigo,
calicoes, sugar, rhnharb, diamonds and other precious stones, tmm
India, and a variety of manufactured goods from Europe. The
annual value of exports and imports toother amounts to about
£4,000,000, The principal ports are Bashire and Gombroon on the
Persian Gulf, and Enzeli, Bnlfnish, and Astrabad, no the Caspian.
The maritime traffic on the Caspian is entirely in tlie hands ol the
linssians, while that of the Persian Gulf is shared in by the English
and the Sultan of Muscat.
AFGHANISTAN.
Sonndaries. — N., Weatem Tnrkestan ; W., Persia; S.,
Biluchifltan ; E., the Ponjab, from which it is separateci br the
Bulinian Mountains. LaL 29° 60'— 34° Sff N. ; Ion. 62° — 71° E.
Kandahar, near the centre of the Qountry, is nearly in the eanie
latitude witli Austin the capital of Texas, Savannah, Maiocco,
Alexandria, Jerusalem, Lalitlr, and ShaDi>hae.
376 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Area and Population. — The area is estimated at 258,500 sq. m.,
and the population at 4,000,000; or twice the area of the British
Isles, with less than one-seventh of their population.
Siirfoce. — Four-fifths of the country consist of rocks and moun-
tains ; the S.W. is a desert, with an elevation of from 3000 to 5000
ft., resembling the deserts of Arabia, but among the mountains there
are many fertile valleys. The Suliman Mountains, on the eastern
frontier, separating Afghanistan from the valley of the Indus, attain
in Takht-i-Suliman ("Solomon's Throne") an altitude of 11,801 ft.
(see under "Asia," p. 349).
Political Divisions. — These are five in number — ^viz., Kabul,
Balkh, Herat, Kandahar, and Seistan.
Kabul.— Kabul 60, Jelalabad 3 (Kabul, affl. Indus), Charikar 5,
Istalif 15 [affl, Kabul), Ghuznee 10 (Ghuznee), Bamian (in the Bam-
ian Pass).
Balkh.— Balkh 2 (Adersieh), Khulum or Tash-Kurghan 10 (Khu-
lum, affil, Amu-Daria).
Herat. — Herat 60 (Heri-rood), Subzawur 5 (Haroot, affl. Lake
Seistan).
Kandahar. — Kandahar 100 (Urghandab, affl. Helmund).
Seistan. — Now mainly belongs to Persia ; no towna
Descriptive Notes. — Kabul or Cabool is celebrated above all other
cities for its excellent fruits. It has an extensive transit trade between
Bussia, China, Turkestan, and India, and was the scene of the treacher-
ous outbreak of the chiefs in 1842, when 3800 British soldiers and 12,000
camp-followers were massacred. Jelalabad, famous for the heroic and
successful resistance made by the British troops under Sir R. Sale in
1841-2. Ghuznee, a famous city, surrounded by a lofty wall flanked with
numerous towers, is the entrepdt of the trade between Afghanistan and
the Panjab. In the beginning of the eleventh century it was the capital
of an empire reaching from the Ganges to the Tigris, and from the Jaxar-
tes to the Indian Ocean. Bamian, in the celebrated pass which leads
from Afghanistan to Independent Turkestan — the only known pass across
the Hindu Kush practicable for artillery. Balkh, capital of a province
of same name (the ancient kingdom of Bactria), now forming a part of
Afghanistan. It was anciently one of the most flourishing cities of the
East, and the emporium of the trade between India, China, and Western
Asia. On account of its high antiquity it is styled the " mother of cities. **
The ruins of the ancient city cover 20 m. in circumference. Herat, long
the capital of the extensive empire ruled by the descendants of Timur, is
still a post of great military and commercial importance. It is the centre
of a great trade between India, China, Tartary, Afghanistan, and Persia,
and has several manufactures. It is regarded as the key of India from
the west, and has alternately belonged to Persia and Kabul. Kandahar,
a fortified city, and the winter residence of the Khan, has various manu-
factures, and a considerable transit trade between India and Persia It
is very ancient, having been probably founded by Alexander the Great.
It was taken by Tamerlane in 1384, by Shah Abbas of Persia in 3-620, and
was held by the English from 1839 to 1842.
LaJses. — Seistan or Hamon in the west, and Ab-istada in the east
AFGHAN' 1ST AX.
r.77
I
I
Olimste.— Tlie summer heat is oveipoweriug in ths valleys sud
lower levels. The soona of winter lie long uad deep iu the uiouii-
tainims parts, and the cold is reiy iotense. This was the mnin.
cansfl of the sufferings of the Anglo-Indian army during their diaaa-
trona nitreat in January 1842. Suarcolj' any rain falls in the ncMiirn
pirt of the country, where the climata gr™tly rescmhles that of
HIseralB, — Gold, silver, mercury, iron, lead, plumhago, copper,
antimony, coal, sulphur, naphtha, niiim, and rock-salt.
Botany. — Vast regions are utterly desert and timber is generally
scitrce. The most common trees are pines of various species, extend-
iog on the inoantaiu-aides to an elevation of 10,000 ft. The cypress
attains a gigantic size, and the oak and wild olive are found at great
heights. The vegetation of the nplands resembles, in general, that
oF Lurope : and that of the lowlands the flom aud cultivated plants
o( India, as rice, cotton, sugar-caue, millet, muiie, and turmeric.
Zoology- — The fauna of AfKlmiiistjiu belongs to the Transition
pTorinca of modem zoologistn (p. 67). The wild animals are neither
numerous nor very fomddable, with the exception of volres and a
small species of lion found near Kabul Birda comjirise the eauW
hawk, heron, crane, and many other Europeaji species. The prin-
cipal reptiles are turtles and venomous serponts. The Bactriaji or
two-hnmped camel and dromedary are the usual beasts of burilfq,
while other domestic animals conipriae the ass, male, goat, dog. and
cat. The sheep is remarliable for the size of its tail, consisting of a
mass of pure fat, and weighing from 10 to 12 Ih.
Ethnosraphy. — The Afghans, or Pushtaneh, as they clesiguata
tliemselves, are a warlike, semi-barbarons peovle, and probably the
aborigines of the country. They are descended Ironi an snci<-ut:
Aryan race, and are allied to the Irauiaos or Persians. The I'uilitoo
iangnage forma an important brani'h of the Medo-Persie group of
toiigacs, which is itself a member of the Indo-Enrnpean fitniily.
Many of its roots are Peraian. some can be traced to the Zend auil
Pehlvt, while others are from an unknown source. Grammatically
it more resembles the Zend than the Persian. It ia a harsh, impul-
ished tongoe, strongly contrasting with the soft mnsical language of
Persia. The Pnshtaneh number about 3,000,000, and are ail JIo-
hammedana of the Sonnite sect. The other principal tribes are the
HuzHi-ehs, inhabiting the wild highlands of the north, of Tartar or
Mongolian descent, greatly reseinhling the Cliinese in nppearnnce,
and generally Mohammedans of the sect of Ali ; the Tajiks and
Duranis in the west, Hindus in the south, and Einiauks, Uzbeks,
and Biluchees, amounting together to upwards of a million,
Oavemment. — The gavemment of Afghanistan was formerly a
' y, the crown being hereditary in a branch of the Durani
e of the four principal branches into vhich tliS Pushlnneh
ed ; hut the country is now divided into four separate au-i
378 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
independent principalities — viz., those of Kabul, Kandahar, Herat,
and Balkh. Seistan is subdivided into a number of petty chiefships,
most of which now acknowledge the supremacy of Persia, The whole
Afghan force, which is chieily cavalry, amounts to about 16,000 men,
and the combined revenue to about half a million sterling.
Manufacture! and Commerce. — The manufactures are unimport-
ant, and confined chiefly to woollen and cotton stuffs for home con-
sumption. The transit trade is considerable, and carried on by
means of camels and dromedaries, formed into caravans, as the roads
are not adapted to wheeled carriages. The principal foreign trade is
conducted with India, Persia, and Turkestan. The chief exports
consist of horses (which are reared in great numbers and transported
to India), furs, shawls, chintz, indigo, madder, assafoetida, tobacco,
fruits, and Herat carpets. The imports are numerous, comprising
coarse cotton cloths, muslins, silks, brocades, horses, ^old, silver,
broadcloth, cutlery, and slaves from Arabia and Abyssinia.
BILUCHISTAN.
Boundaries. — N., Afghanistan ; W., Persia ; S., the Arabian
Sea, along which it extends for 600 m. ; and E., Sindh. Lat.,
24° 50'— 30° 2(y N. ; Ion., 62" 40'— 69° 18' E. Kelat, the cap.
5 at. 28° 50'), is on the same parallel Math the mouth of the
[ississippi, the Peak of TeneriSOfe, Suez, Bushire, and Delhi
Area and Population. — The area is estimated at 110,000 sq. m.,
the population at 1,000,000; being one-fourth larger than the British
Isles, with only one-fifteenth of their population.
Surfoce. — Nearly the whole country is mountainous, rugged, and
elevated, except in the N, W. and along the coast ; and water is de-
ficient, being absorbed by the deserts. The region along the S. coast
is termed the desert of Makran, which resembles the Tehama of
Arabia and the Duhtistan of Persia. The Washutee Mountains, in
the centre, attain in Takkatu, one of their summits, an elevation of
11,000 ft. ; and the Hala Mountains, between it and Sindh, reach
the same altitude.
Political Divlaions. — ^Biluchistan now consists of six provinces —
viz., Kachh-Gundava in the N.E. ; Sarawan, W. of Kachh-Gundava;
Kelat, S.E. of Sarawan ; Jhalawan, S. of Kelat ; Los, in the S.E.;
and Kedji Makran, in the S.W.
Towns. — Kelat 12 n., Zehree 12 n., Gundava 20 n. (OcpidaTa, e^
Indus), Dadur 3 (Naree), Sonmeanee 2, Bela 6 (Puralli), Sftrawttl
3 (Bale), Kedje 10, Punjgu (Dasti).
BiLUcniSTAN. d<9
DescriptiTO Notes,— Kalit, a, Btrongl)--fortiliea town surrounded bj-
mountains, and well supplieil witli vnteT, ws« tha atronghold of Nadir
Blmh. In 1839, and again in 1841, it was stormed and taken by the
Biitiali. It has a consider'aljle transit trade, with some maaufactanis of
anus. Dadur, near the S.E. entrance of the celehrnted Bolan Pass— one
of Uie cliief roada Cram India to tlia west— is said to be one of the hottest
places known. Bela, the capital of Ln3, is huilt of mud-houses. Son-
vuanea; ueor it is the eelelirated mud-voleano of Hioglaj. Saiawaji,
capital of province of itame name, a emaL town aurrounded by a mud-
vall, ia a harreii district, EutjB, the capital of Makran, once a place of
considerable importance, ia now greatly daoayed. Bnnpw, capital of
Kohiatan, a einoU ill-built town, in a sterile region, and defended by a
I fort, belonga iiow to Persia.
Winter. Snow falla from Oiitobsr to the end of Febiuary, and in
some places remains on the groaud for two months, in the plaiua
•nil vallejH the licat in summer is oppreaaive. In February and
March a good deal of rain falls ; and fram the latter month to Sep-
tember is the dry b<
I
le mineral irealth of tlie country ia considerable, !□-
eluding gold, silver, lead, iron, copper, tin, antitnany, sulphur, alum,
ial-ammoniac, and many kinds of mineral salts aud saltpetre, but it
is not torned to auy practical accoant.
Botasr, — The country belongs, botanioally, to Schouw's " Region
of Balsamic Trees," in which tha vegetation is of a trojiical character,
inolnding trees yielding gums and balsamic resins (p. SG). The oak,
asb, ftr, and other trees common in Europe, are unknown. In the
low and watered plains of tha !N. E. are grown rice, cotton, indigo, to-
Imcco, sugar-cane. Rhubarb and the assaftetida plant (the latter of
which ia eaten by the inhabitants) abound in some districts, while on
tile mountain -sides the tamarisk and babul attain the size of large
Zoolosy,— TI18 fauna of Biluchiatan closely resembles that of Persia,
lioth being embraced in the Transition Province of naturalists. Wild
animals are namerous, especially leopards, wolveB, hyenas, jaciala,
tiger-cats, and foxes; but, except on the eastern frontier, lions and
tigers are rarely seen. There arc also wild dogs, wild asses, ante-
lopes, deer, baics, mongooses, mountain -goats, and wild hogs, with
various kinds of monkeys. Tlic other animals, wild and domestic,
are for the most part the samu as those of Afghanistan.
Ettmograplir.— Two raises of people are found Id Bilochistan— the
liiUicheea and Brahua. The former, inhabiting the westtm part of
the counCrj', are a rudo, nomadic, pftstDral people, supposed to have
sprung from tha Seljukian Turk*. The; are Mohammedans of the
Riiuuite sect, and speak D Verv turmpt dialect of the Persian, termtid
I Biluoliee, which contains no Iittiniture, save a jiortion ol the Scrip-
I tiires IranalsteJ into it by ihe Scrampot-o misaionariaa. The Bralms
X inhabit chiefly the eununi prol^hMii, uii'l are moat i
380
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Jhalawan. Like the Biluchees, they are a pastoral people, but less
addicted to rapine and predatory violence ; they speak a language of
Dravidian structure, allied to those of the Dakhan, but hitherto not
reduced to writing. They are Mohammedans of the sect of Omar.
Ooyeminent. — The eastern provinces are under the uncertain au-
thority of the Khan of Kelat ; the remainder being held by tribes
who acknowledge no subjection except to their own chiefs. His
armed force amounts to 8000 men, and his revenue to £30,000. A
large portion of the S. & W., including the seaport town of Choubar,
belongs now to Persia.
Commerce. — The trade of Biluchistan is usually conducted by
means of caravans, and is almost wholly in the hands of Hindus.
Sonmeanee and Choubar are the only seaports — the latter now be-
longing to Muscat. Agriculture is not much pursued, but the Brahus
rear large numbers of goats and black cattle. The principal exports
are butter of ghee, hides, wool, drugs, dried fruit, fish, com, and
vegetable oil ; and the chief imports are British and Indian manu-
factured goods, rice, spices, dye-stuffs, and slaves (for Muscat).
Table of Rivers and Towns. — The following table contains the
river-system of Asiatic Turkey, Arabia, Persia, and Biluchistan, and
shows the natural position of all the towns belonging to those coun-
tries contained in this work, commencing at the S.E. angle of the
Black Sea, crossing the Isthmus of Suez, and then following the
coast : —
Rivers. Cities and Towns.
N.Co. TrebizondjRizah, Trebizond.
YesbQ Irmak,...Ainasia, Tukat, Mar-
sivan.
Kizil Irmak, .. ..Eankari, Kaisarieh, n.,
SiVAS.
Kara Su, I .. .. Kastamnni.
Devrek, I Tosia.
N. Co. Anatolia, Sinope, Eregri.
Sakaria, Kutaya.
Murtadabad, Angoiu.
Bosporus, Scutari.
Sea of Marmora, Brusa, Muhalitch, n.
W. Co. Anatolia, Smyrna, Scala Nova.
Kodus, ManisRa.
Phrygius, AkHissar (Tkyatira).
Cogaraus, I.. . . Alia Shehr.
Mendereh, Aidin, KarvHissar, n.
S. Co. Adana,. ..Jltoya.
Cydnus, Tarsus.
Sihoon, Adana.
Jyhoon, Marash.
0.ofIskenderun,/«Arenderun, BeHan.
Asy or Orontes, Antaki LAntioeh), Ha-
niah. Horns.
Co. of Tripoli, ..Latakia, JebaU, Tri-
poli.
Co. of Acre, .... Beirout, Saida (Sidon),
Sur (Tyre)y Akka
(Acre), Kisarieh
(Ccesarea).
Rivers. Cities and Totnis.
Litany or Leon- Tyre, n., Baalbec.
tes,
Co. of Gaza, . . ..Jaffa (Joppa), Guzzeh
(Gaza), El Arish.
Jordan (Dead Eriha (Jericho), Tctba-
Sea), ria (Tiberias), Pa-
nea^ (Ccesarea Phil-
ippi), n.. Hesbeiya.
Kedron El Khuds [Jerusalem).
Bnrada or Phar- El Sham (DamofeiM),
par, 8uk(Alnla).
G. of Suez, Suez, Tor.
G. of Akalia, . . . .Akaba (EzionrOeber).
E.Co.ofRedSea,F0ni&o, Jiddah, Mec-
ca, n.. Mocha, Tmub,
n.
G. of Aden, Aden.
Co. of Hadra-MAKALLA, Shahr,
maut,
G. of Oman, Muscat, Mnttra, So-
har.
Aftan, LAcnsA, Deiaieb, a.
W. Co. of Ter-El Kat^, QmD9.
sian Gulf,
Euphrates, Baasomh, Shnk-el-
Shnynk, HfUah (l
Koran,? Buuwis.
l>ixfta,l«,..DiiftiL
K<irl:liah,l....&7iuj,
KaoD, J KoBD
I , Clgris Bmid.
I»y>l(ih^I...Sul9lmanu
. , KiftitiytS.
BtUk,! Itatiah. B
aijiir, ALntib, Au
KsroSu.QrW.Arab.Gir,
'Bn!BaOulf.....Bu>ibln,Ni
■■B. niiictuatiui,'GhoubBr.
Daslt, Kedje, Pun
FonlU SuDinunee
INDIA, OK HINDUSTAN.*
Of the three great peniaaulaa in which Asia temiinates oa the
■outh, India forms the central and by far the moet important.
Boimdaflea. — N., TiVet, from which it is separated by the
Himalay'a Mountains; W., Afglianistan', Bilncliistan', and the
Arabian Sea; S., the Indian Ocean; £., Bay of Bengal' and
Birma. Lat. 6°— 36" N. ; Iom. 66^°— aSJ E.
In form it is a triangle, Trhose base is tiie Himalayas, tbe loftiest
moDatoibs on the globe, and whcae apsx stretches far out into tlie Indian
Ocean. Its eoutliem balf lies witliiu Urn torrid mae : Celcntta, □□ tlia
central parallel, and only uno degree Eonth of the Tropio of Cancer, b
cearlv in tbe same latitude as C. Blanco, Mecca, Moecat', Baro'da, Cau-
totf, Mazatlan', and Havan'a. The eonntiy couaists of three great natu-
ral divisions— vli., tbe basiu of the Gan'ges In the north-eaati the basin
of the In'dua in the north-west; and tbe Dali'han, or strictly peninsular
part, fonniue an elevated plateau in the south.
Arsa, Popnlatian, and Political Dlvlslona. — Including Ceylon' and
the British possessions in Bir'nia, tlie area is eatiiuated at l,475,li>S
S. m., and the population at 211,236,235 ; or twelve times the ai-eu
the Biitish Isles, with sovon times their population. The valley
of the Ganges \a the most densely peopled poition (Oudh 474, Beugid
28*. but over the wholo of India tlu-le ai'i: only 165 peisuns tu tli.
gq.m.
About four-sevenths of this Iniu!- ■
of the population, arodiractly sul;; ■
are about liiS small native slste? . ' '
protection. Besides these, there n:-
Nepal' and Bhotan'. The foreibin :
extent; those of the Frundi are uii: i.
linger in a few spots, the aoontm : 'i
Danish possessions have beconi« <. l
rtlii>gr.iihyo(
382 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
British Possessions. — Britisli India now consists of the follow-
ing eight subdivisions — viz., 1, the Presidency of Bengal', embracing
Bengal, Oris'a, Behar', Assam', and Chittagong', and occupying the
lower basins of the Gan'ges and Brahmapfl'tra ; 2, the NorthAVest
Provinces and Oudh, including Benft'res, Allahabad', Ag'ra, Oudh,
and Rohilkhand', all in the upper basin of the Ganges ; 3, the Pan-
jkh'f with Sirhind' and Delphi, chiefly in the upper basin of the
in'dus; 4, Central Provinces and Berar', in the north of the Dak'-
han ; 5, Bomba/ Presidency or Sindh, British Gujaraf , and the
KonTsan, in the west of the Dakhan and in the lower basin of the
Indus ; 6, the Presidency of Madras', consisting of the Sarkars',
Karnat'ak, Balaghaf, and Koimbatiir', in the south of the Dakhan ;
7, the Island Ceylon', south of the Dakhan ; 8, British Bir'ma, or
the South - Eastern Provinces, on the eastern side of the Bay of
Bengal'. The principal towns in these are as follows : —
Bengal' Presidency. — Calcut'ta 892, Kal'na 60, Plassey, Murs-
hidabad', 147 (Huglili), Patna 159 (Ganges), Bardhwan' 54 (DamMa),
Pur'neah 60 (Co'sa), Behar' 30 n., Gay'a 43 n. (Fulgo), Dac'ca 66 n.
(Brdhmaplitra), Chittagong' 12 (Bay of Bengal), KataV 40, PA'ri 30,
SambhalpUr' 30 (Mahana'di).
N.W. Provinces and Oudh.— Ben§,'res 173, Mirzaplir' 80, Alla-
habad' 105, Kanhpiir' 60, Farrukhabad' 132, Haridwai-' 100 (Ganges),
Faizabad' 100 (Ghag'ra), GorakhpAi^ 54 (Rap'ti), LukhnoV 285
(Gum'ti), Ag'ra 143, Maf ra 65 (Jani'na), Ban'da 33 (Cane), Miraf 29
(Ka'li Na'di), Shahjahanpiir' 63, Pilibhif 27 (Gur'ra), Bareilly 110,
Rampiir' 100, Almo'ra 10 n. (Ramgun'ga).
PanJaV, Slrhlnd', and DelTiL— Ludhia'na 47, Amba'la 22 (Sataej),
Multan' 80 (Chenab'), Lahur' 120, Amritsdr' 115 (Ravi'), Jalandai'
40 (Bl'as), Peshaw'ar 56 (Kab^'), Del'hi 154 (Jam'na).
Central Provinces. — Sagar' 50 n. (Cane), Nagpur' 112 (Nag),
Gur'rah 25, JabalpAr' 30 (Nerbud'da).
Bombair' Presidency.— Haidarabad' 24 n., Kard'chi 22 n., TAaftha
20, ShikarpAr' 30 n. (In'dus), Bombay' 644 (I. Bombay), Ahmada-
bad' 130 (Sabarma'ti), Surat' 95 (Tap'ti), Pii'na 80 (Mutamtt'la),
Nas'ik 25 (Godav'ari).
Madras' Presidency.— Mangalftr' 12, Kal'ikut 25, Cochin' 30 (W.
coast), Tallangamba'di 25, Tanjiir' 40, Trichinapal'li 30 (Ka'veri),
Arkaf 40, Velftr' 52 (Pdlar), Madras' 398 (E. coast), Nizampat'nam
25 n., Machhlipafnam 28 (Krish'na), Karnftl' 20 (Tungabhad'ro),
Bal'lari 30 (Hin'deri), Rajamahen'dri 20 (Godav'ari), Vishakpafnam,
Shikako'lam 50 (E. coast).
Ceylon'.— Colom'bo 70 (W. coast), Galle 3 (S. coast), Trin'comi^^
30 (E. coast), Kandy (centre). ' '
British Birma and Straits Settlements. — Arakhan' 8 (Koladain'),
Rang(in'100,Prome 22 (IrawSl'di), PegA' 6 (Pegn). Mnlmein' 4& tOL
of Martaban'), George'town 40, Malac'ca 12, Singapftr' $B pt
Malacca).
INDIA, OR mSDL-STAN. 383
) States. — The principal (mtive statpa umier nritiah
protpttion, HHd in the order of tha PitBidenoiss in which Ihej occur,
are the following : —
Kbas'la Statea.— Chir'ra Pon'jt (Sur'mn).
Maalpur.— Manipflr' (KonglDo, affl. Brahmapfl'tra).
KusH-BBhar.— Beliar' (Nilko'mar).
SikUEQ'.— Sikhim (Atri, affl. Gangea).
sum atatea.— Puti&la 20 (KosOla), Jhind 20 (Chitang'), Sirhind'
20 (Sntaej).
KaahmiT'.— Srinagar' 10 (JhelanO. Gil'git, Iskai'do, I^h * (Indus).
Bhawalpnr.— Bhawalpflr' 20 (Snrtej).
aajpnf Btfttes.— Jodhpilr' 80 n., paii 50 (Ln'ni), Jojaalmir' 35,
NaSUi'' *", Bikanir' flO (Indian Desert), Bhnrtpfir' 100 n, (Jam'na),
Bun'dl, Ko'ta (Chamlwd), Jajpar" 100 n. (BH'nas).
Gwlllor.— Gwnior 60 u. (Sindh, a^ Jam'na), Ujjain' 130 (Sip'ra).
K«ailL— Bhfij 20 n. (O. of KacLh).
Gi^JarM'.— Baro'da 100 (Mahi'), Puttun' 30 (Siirraawut'ti).
Mttl'ira. BhopBl', and Inilur' Indili- 15, Du'was 2.^ (Sip'ra), Dhar
30 (ChamTial), Bhopnl' (Befwa).
KolHapuT— KDllinpCir' n. (Kriah'nn), Snwant WU'rii 10 n. (Kon'-
knn coast).
TraTanoote'.— Trivan'Jsram IS, Kolam 20 (Malabar' coast).
Ualsur.*— MaisHr'es, Seringapatam' 12 (E&'veri), Bengidbr' U2o.
(Pflimar'), UmrawaUi, Ellichpar 28 (Pnma).
Haldaratiad.— Haidaraliad' 200, SikonJ.irabad' 30 (Mil'si), Ei'dar
50 (llazija'ni), Anrangabad' flO |Dudh'na), Assay'a (Purtia).
B&Bdalkliaiid'.— Jhan'si 50, Dati'ja 10 (Bet'wa).
IsDEPEsnsNT States. — Thaso are now only two in number, bor-
dering the HimttlBja,
Bhoten'.— TasiaQ'don {GoiiS'da, affl. Brahmapfl'tra).
Hap&l'.— Ehatman'du 50, Patan' 21 (Biahcmil'ti).
FoRBiGN Possessions. — The noo-Btitish Europonn possesBions are
now reduced to tha two followiug : —
French — Pon'dicheri, Karikal'lO (Coroman'del const), Chsnd ran u-
gar" 30 (HflgJi'Ii).
Ponngoese, — Pan^ini 20, Oo'a 5 (Koiiltan «hore),
DeBBiipttve Hotes.— The cntfre rniiiianln, together with Ccjion
and Brittah flirmii, contains two ciIIb* ((JiJi:uttn, Bowbaj) of mum
than 600,000 inhflbitmitB ; four brlwtmi .'lOO/lOO -ind 200,000 {Mail-
na. Jaypflr, Liikhnow, Hnidur:''-''* '■' i-i..."-rT 900,00(1 laid
loO.OOOdlBnaica, Delhi, PhIi<.>. > i^lIii,!, Fnmih-
I lubad, AhmadiilMil, Beo^Or. <' "<livitr,BaiudK,
• italiar, Chsi. Wtl 1 1'
384 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHr.
Bamptir, Amritsar, Hangdn, Bhartpiir, Bareilly) ; and about thirtr
between 100,000 and 50,000.
Bengal.— Calcutta, on the left bank of the Hughli, an arm of the
Ganges, TOO miles from the sea, is the cap. of British India — ^Delhi being
the Mohammedan and Benares the Hindu capital i it is a large and
mangificent city, containing numerous splendia buildings, and a million
inhabitants. In the European part of tne city the streets are wide and
the houses separated by gardens, but in the native portion the houses are
mean, and the streets narrow and dirty : it is defended by Fort-William,
the largest fortress in India, containing 619 guns, and 80,000 stand of
arms. As a commercial emporium, Calcutta is uluiTalled in Asia — its
annual imports amounting to two millions sterling, and its exports to
more than five millions. Previous to 1698, when the East India Company
removed hither their factory from Hughli, Calcutta was an inconsiderable
village, surrounded by jungle ; in 1756 the factory was attacked by the
natives, and 146 Europeans were shut up in the famous *' black hole,*' of
whom 123 were suffocated before morning. Kalna, a place of consider-
able trade, and a station for steamers plying between Calcutta and the
North-West Provinces. Flassev, 83 nules N. of Calcutta, is memorable
for the decisive battle fought between Clive and Suraj-u-Dowlah, 23d
June 1757, which established British supremacy in India. It was pre-
cisely a century after this engagement that the Bengal native array
mutinied, in the hope of casting off the British yoke, the idea having
become general among the natives that the raj of the Feringhees was des-
tined to last for only 100 years. HursMdabad, a large, populous, but ex-
tremely unhealthy city, was the cap. of Bengal till superseded by Cal-
cutta. Patua, an immense assemblage of mud-huts, maintains a large
trade in opium, rice, wheat, indigo, saltpetre, and sugar : it was the scene
of a frightful massacre in 1763, when Meer Cossim, the Nabob of Patna,
murdered in cold blood 200 Englishmen. Bardhwan has coal and iron
mines in its vicinity. Pnmeah is lai^gely engaged in the cultivation of
indigo. Behar produces vast quantities of opium, sugar, and cotton.
Gaya, one of the sacred places of the Hindus, is visited annually by up-
wards of 100,000 pilgims. Dacca, once a place of great importance, is
now rapidly falling into ruins, and its manufacture of muslin, once so
celebrated, is now scarcely deserving of notice. Chittagong, formerly a
place of considerable trade, and noted for its shipbuilding, has of late
years greatly declined; it was ceded to the British by the Nabob of
Bengal in 1760. Purl or Jagannath (Juggernaut) is distinguished over
India as one of the principal strongholds of the Hindu superstition. The
famous temple, completed in a.d. 1198, is said to have cost half a million
sterling. Here Ejisnna, one of whose titles is Jagannath (" Lord of the
Universe "), is the principal object of worship. Sambhalpur (Sumbul-
pore) is celebrated mr its diamonds, principally found in the Mahanadi.
N.W. Provinces and Oudh. — Benares, a large populous city on the
Ganges, and in the estimation of the Hindus the most sacred place in the
world ; it is a crowded seat of native industry, and contains many wealthy
native bankers and dealers in diamonds, for which it has long been famous.
UtirztMja, a great cotton mart, and a place of considerable trade. Alla-
habad^ capital of a province of same name, at the confluence of the Ganges
and Jamna, is one of the sacred cities of the Hindus, and is visited an-
nually by about 200,000 pilgrims ; it is the grand military depot of tlie
North-West Provinces, and was the scene of barbarous perfidy during the
late insurrection. Eanhpur (Cawnpore), one of the most im]*K)rtant com-
, OK HINDUSTAN.
3ft5
1]?ercml citici^ od Uif Gou^bh, vill te long TUflTDQrBl>]p lu^ the ncene of Koni
tuiiib's liruta] BtrodtiDS, SStli June imd lutfa Jnl}' 1G57. 7uniUis]»d.
oiie of thr prinoiiitt! cororoereiBj cities of Korthorn luiJia, eontniu! boiuh
cxT-suiEETe hunlfinp eslfililislinifaitB, And has in its TJrnnJty tbe militar}'' caii-
tucmeut of Futlehgiu'li : lisre Lord Liike ddentei] tbe troops of HQlciir in
l!W5. HaiidWW, a gmat commercial aty rm the GaugBS, nrhare it isenea
frsnt the mountucs : bere in held the la^geBt fair in India, attended au-
jiimily i)j abont 350,000 tradara and pijgrinia. F»ix»l)»d, tbe Inrmer
cujotiil at Oudh, is a po^luiu town, but niudly falling into decay.
Goai^-mi (Goruckpoor), laken by tlie Euglisb in 1802, contains a civil
establiahiuEnt and a grant military cautnninBDt. Iinkbiunr, cap. of tbe
late Idugdcui of Oudb, ia a large and pcpulonc dn, containing tome noble
buildings ; vben attaclned b}' tbe rebels iQ 1S57, iJie Brttlsb gairiaon, ooni-
manded br Sir E. Lawrence, abut thetnselveB op in line rendency, wbii^li
they defended irith unparalleled hBi-oiani for Si dayE gainst 60,000 of
tbe euBDiy, wben at length they were relieved by Sir Colin Oanyibell.
Agra, cap. oj' a proTinm of aajne ninnc, and formerly of tbe Mogul
Empire, is the Beat of gCTenmienl for the Korth-Weat Procinces ; it was
InKlai lajmahal, or nuosolenm of Shnh Jehan, Hie finest eiistiiig sped-
men of MoliunmBdan ajchitecturB ; it ia built li white marble, inlMd -nith
ttrenty-two years. The city waj seiied by the mntinou* si^oys in May
1 857, and remained in their posaeasion till the Ootober following, *heii
they vere totally dtfcutad by Colonel Gnathed. Hattra, a aacred cily,
betiig regarded by the Hindus ae the birthplaoe of their pod Kiishua,
Kirat or Keemt, the btadquaners of the Ben^ ertLllery, ia meiuoiablE
na the aeene of the outbreak of Oie terrible Indian ^e[^ellion, May 10, ISf.".
when tbe natiTe troopE shot thtir offictrE and maBsacred sU the Europeank
that could be found. Pillbhit. celebrated for it« rice, is the mart ol
« considerable traffic. EareHly, cap. of Kobilkhand, a coneidemble
jilace, iritb a brisk and luctauve i^onuDerce, Is tbe aeat of one of the rax
circuit courts of the Preaidemy, of an English collem, and of Persian ami
Hiudu echoola. SBmpar^ahLrge town, built of mud, and detiaely peopled.
AlmoTB, cap. of Enniiion -. neat it wae fought the battle of Sitlolee, which
decided the fate of the war between tbe ^tish and tbe Ghurkas.
PaSjab, SIBBIHD. U(D DEXJii.— Ludluuia, tbe most flourishing commer-
dol city in the C5B-Satlej territory. Ambala, the principal town m BrituJi
Bidund, is an important military station, Multan, tbe third city in the
Pmrjab for populalion and commeniul prosperilT, was taken bj' the
BtitiBh in ISie, after a gallant and obEttuate deleiii'e uii the port of the
•nemy. lohnr, cap. of the Panjab, is a large and splendid city, oon-
taining nnmeroos mosqaes and Hindu temples : it was one of tbe red-
dimoee of tbe Uogul emperors, and is Buironnded for many mUes by ex-
tensive Mohammedan rums, the Telioe of its former gteatneM ; it came
into the hands of the British in 1849, after the final defeat of tbe Sikhh
Amitaai. the aacnid cap. of tbe Panjab, and the chief Beat of the Sikh
it wealthy and commercial city in Northem India ; it
j'^nianufactnres of eoUroL, iUkt, line abawls. and an eiiensive transit
ili Central Asia. Piahavu-, near the Khybir Pass, is the frontifr
. . i Hindsxtan, toward Afghanistan ; ainca its occspBlion by tbe
filTtidi, its trade baa rapidly increased. Delhi, capital of^ a provisoe of
—' ' — "— metropolis of the Mohammedan Empire in India,
k of the Janina, and is defended by a fori anrl i
iroach from the S.E. if verj' striking, Irom
tiie right bank ol
386 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
the innumerable ruined monuments of its former prosperity and grandeur :
the present city was erected by Shah Jehan in 1631 ; but the original
Delhi, which extended along the banks of the Jamna for above 30 miles,
was of very Idgh, though unknown, antiquity. The Mirat mutineer!
arrived here on the 11th May 1857, and were immediately joined by the
three native regiments stationed in the fort ; having seized the arsenal,
ammunition, and treasury, they cruelly massacred nearly all the European
community, and proclaimed Mirza Jewan Bakht, the heir-apparent of the
titular emperor of Delhi, and the lineal successor of the Great Mogul, as
the sovereign of India ; the city remained in the possession of the rebels
tiU the 20th September following, when the British troops, under General
Wilson, after a furious assault, regained possession of it, captured the
king, and slaughtered great numbers of the insurgents.
Central Provinces. — Sagar (Saugor), an important town near the Cane,
with a fort and a military cantonment. Nagpnr ("City of Serpents"),
the principal town in the Central Provinces, has extensive trade and
numerous banking establishments. Jabalpur has a military cantonment
and a school of industry.
BoMBAT. — Haidarabad, capital of Sindh, and 4 miles E. of the Indus,
is a fortified city, containing a bazaar and a manufactory of arms ; 6 miles
N. of it is the village Meeanee, the scene of a memorable victory obtained
by the Anglo-Indian army, imder Sir C. Napier, over the Biluchees, in
1843. Karachi or Kurrachee, the principal sea^rt of Sindh, has con-
siderable trade. Thattha, the ancient cap. of Siadh, is now much de-
cayed : about 80,000 persons died of the pls^e here in 1689. Shikarpnr,
the most populous and commercial city in Sindh, has a great transit trade
through the Bolan Pass. Bombay, cap. of Presidency of same name, and
one of the most populous cities in India, is situated on a small island,
which is connected with the mainland by an artificial causeway : the har-
bour is land-locked, perfectly secure at all seasons, and embraces an area
of 50 sq. m. ; its facilities for commerce and shipbuilding give it a supe-
riority over every other city in India, while its trade is second only to
that of Calcutta, its exports alone being valued at 5^ millions sterling.
Ahmadabad, a large, handsome city, was captured by the British in 178^
and is now the headquarters of the Bombay army. Snrat — here was
founded the fii-st mercantile establishment of the East India Company in
1612 ; its trade is now greatly declined. Puna, formerly the cap. of the
Mahratta Empire, is the principal military cantonment of theDakhajK
Vasik, the centre of Hinduism in the Dakhan, has extensive Buddhist
cave- temples in its vicinity.
Madras Presidency. — Mangalnr, noted for the treaty of x>eac6 con-
cluded here in 1784, between the East India Company and Tippu Sahib.
Kaliknt, the first place in India touched at by Vasco de Gama. Cochin,
one of the principal seaports on the west coast, is noted for shipbuilding.
TanjuT, celebrated for its great pagoda, considei'ed the finest of the
pyramidal temples of India. Tnchinapalli, noted for its hardware^
cutlery, jewellery, and cheroots. Arkat (Arcot), the scene of a memor-
able engagement between Clive and Rajah Sahib in 1751. Velnr (Vellore)^
one of the healthiest military stations in India, is noted for the massacre
of the Europeans in the mutiny of 1806. Madras, capital of the Pi^-
dency, and one of the most populous cities in India : it poesesses no
harbour, in consequence of which its commerce has greatly suffered ; but
a pier has lately been erected under great engineering dLfficultiea. It is
well built and handsome, and contains a university, catbednd, and serend
literary establishments. Machhlepatnam (Masultpatam), aibrtified ei^,
r
istiiA, on iHNiJUSTAs. 3S7
being noted for its cliintz manofacturea. Shikftkolara (Cbiuacole), noted
forite muslin mu^u/'actiires.
Ckylon.— Colomljo, the cap. and principal seaport of the island, ii
strongly fortified : it waa taken from the Butch in 1706, and is now ths
entrepot far most of tlie foreign trade. Oulle, or Point de Qiile, an
important station for steam packets, hna an escellent harhonr. Trjn-
eoiDSji, a fortified town, on one of the finest liarbonts in the world.
Kandy, the former capital of Ceylon.
BuxisB BlBHA, &c.— Arakhui ia eitremely unhealthy, and has heen
the grave of many a British soldier. Bangnn, the principal seaport of
PeKU. Frome, the moat popnions city in Pegn, was talien by the British
in lGfi2. Muliaein, the principal town and seaport in the Teuaaseriin
I -provinces. Qeargetown, on PiiloFenang island, ii admirably situated as
I K mercantile station, Bingapor has rapidJy risen to Importujice as a
great commercial entrep3t for tlie goods of Europe and Asia.
PEtOTECTED STATES.— CMrra Pu&Ji, 4200 ft abOYB the sea, ia said to be
the rainiest place in tlie world, there being no less than 616 inches of rain
falling from Mny to October. Behar produces the best opium in India.
ffiJdUio, capital of a small native state of same name on the southern
Aank of Kinchiniunga, one of the loftiest of the Himalaya, Patiala,
Jhlnd, and Sirhmd, are the respective caps, of siuhU native states of
mme names in the Uis.fjatlej territory. Brinu^ar, or Eaalunil, capital
r OfOholab Shigh's dominions, has been long noted for its goi^BDOs shawls
[ tntnufactured from the Gne hair of the Kashmir goat, Qllgit, lakardo,
I and Iieh are the caps, of three small principalities subject to the Maha-
ajah of Kashmir, They are situated in the upper valley of the Indus, at
the 8. W. foot of the Karakomm Mountains, some of which are 28,000 ft.
b^h, and covered with glaciers. The people are Tariars, and profess the
ifibanmiedan religion. Ukardo is the cap. of Baiti, Btdtl^tan, or Little
Tibft. Leh is the chief town of Ladakh or Middle Tibet ; hen; the heat
of summer is perhaps unparalleled] the thermometer in September,
and at an elevation of 15,500 ft,, reaehmg 158° Fah., while from
DBeomber to February it ranges from 10° to 20°, Bhawnlpnr
has flourishing manufactures of silt. Jodhpor, cap. of Marwar, the
latest state in Bajpatana, is noted for its ImmeuHe citadel Pali, a ^eat
anttepOt foe Malwa opium, on its way to Bomliay. Bhartrinr carries «n
an eitensive trade m salt, derived from a lake in ita vicimty. ilaypur,
the largest and most elegant city in all India tlist has been erected solely
Irf the natives, Gwalior, cap. of the poaaessioiiB of Sindhia's family, is
a large tosni, with a strong citadel situated on a precipitous rodi. XFJiain,
formerly rap, of Qwalior, is one of the seven sacred cities of the
Hindus, and the first meridian of their geographers, Bhni is renowned
for its manufactures in gold nnd silver. Baroda, cap. of the Guicowar's
doralniona, i» a large and populous city, extensively engi^ed in trade,
IndoT, capital of Uolcar'a dominlouB, containa numerous Brahminicnl
' ' id a BriHsh reaiiienny. KoUiapnT, the saeue of a rebellion in
' "■■■ bforc ~-
a British force, Tiivamderam has a
palace and an extensive garrison. Maiaor, capita
same name, is a large, well-built town, with a tort auu iirn,isu itaiuHHcj.
Beringapatam was the cap, of Maisur, under Tippu Sahib, who was
■tain here by the British in the t^mous si«B of 17^. Bengali"^, a large
turtified town, ooutainiug the palace of Tippu Sahih. ffiddaiabad. u
L largi-. bfautiful, and populous city, capital of the Nizam's dominions ;
' ' Oolconda, formerly famous tor diamonds and other jewels. Bidar,
lor its BiaDQfaclure of bidan-wsra, an alloy of tin and copper, uidj
388 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
for the bowls of tobacco-pipes. Aamngabad, once tlie favourite residence
of Aunmgzebe, the last Mogul emperor : near it Ellora, noted for its
remarkable cave-temples, which, in magnitude and execution, surpass all
other structures of the kind in India.
Independent States. — Tasi8ndon,cap.of Bhotan, is the residence of the
Deb Rajah, who has here a fortified palace. Khatmaudn, cap. of Nepal,
contains many Buddhist temples.
Foreign Possessions. — ^Pondicheri, cap. of the French possessions in
India, is a very handsome maritime town. Chandranagar, once an
elegant and opulent city, is now falling into decay. Fanjim, cap. of
the Portuguese possessions in India, is a handsome, well-buUt town.
Goa, the former capital, once opulent and powerful, is now falling into
decay.
Capes and Peninsulas. — Peninsula of Kathi4'wad, bet. the Kachh
and Camba/; Kachh, S. of Sindh ; Diu Head, S. of Kathiawad ;
C. Comorin', the southernmost point of Hindustan ; Dundra Head,
S. of Ceylon ; C. Negrais', S. of Pegu.
Islands. — Ceylon, S. E. of the Karnatak ; Manar and Ramesh-
waram, between Ceylon and the mainland ; Bombay, Elephanta,
and Salsette, on the Konkan coast ; Laccadives, 150 m. W. of the
Malabar coast ; Maldives, 200 m. S.W. of Cape Comorin; Hattia,
in the delta of the Ganges ; Ramri and Cheduba, W. of Arakan ;
Mergui Archipelago, W. of Tenasserira ; Prince of Wales Island or
Pulo Penang, in the Str. of Malacca ; Singapur, S. of the Malay
Peninsula ; Andaman and Nicobar Islands, 180 m. S. W. of Pegu.
Ceylon f about 60 m. from the continent, has been a dependency of
Great Britain since 1815, previous to which, however, the English, aiter
various encounters with the Dutch and French, had obtained possession
of the stations on the coast. The area is estimated at 24,454 sq. m.,
and the population at 2,405,287 The island is pear-shaped, well watered,
and highly fertile : it is mountainous in the south, where Pedrotallagalla,
its highest summit, rises to the height of 8280 ft. Adam's Peak, near
the centre, 7420 ft. high, is famous in Buddhist tradition ; on its level
summit is a large stone bearing an impression resembling that of a
colossal human foot, believed by the natives to have been made by
Buddha when he ascended to heaven. Ceylon contains a greater abun-
dance of precious stones than any other country in the world ; and iron,
manganese, ]plumbago, nitre, and salt, are plentiful. The climate is very
hot and moist, and the vegetation highly luxuriant. The indigenous
flora of Ceylon approximates more closely to that of the Malay archipelago
than to that of Southern India. The most valuable trees are the cinna-
mon-tree, the cocoa, and Palmyra palm, the tallipot, tamarind, and
bread-fruit tree. The first named yields three valuable commercial pro-
ducts — cinnamon-bark, cassia-buds, and oil of cinnamon, an essence
obtained by distillation. Rice, cotton, pepper, tobacco, cofifee, sugar-
cane, indigo, and various other vegetables are raised. The fauna
resembles that of the Dakhan, but many of tiie lai^er animals of tin
latter are here unknown. The fauna includes upwards of 600 species cf
fishes, all of which have been captured at Colombo, being the laigett
collection of species known to exist in one spot. Little is Imown of tilt
aboriginal inhabitants, but "stupendous monuments of a remott and
almost entirely imknown antiquity, ruins of cities, pagodas, and
digious stone embankments for irrigation, proclaim thttr sutpSriMit^.
r
the present nutlves." The Ititter, however, are inganious wnrliara in
pearl-lfsheryon the N.W. coaat, formerly the most valuable in the world,
after being ahandoned has been resnuiw. The inhsbitanta profess the
Biiddhigt religion, while the langnages spoken sra the Tamnl imd Cin-
gBlese. Manar and JtaniesAiearam form a part of Adam's Bridge — i
ndj^e of saj^iibanks tphlch almost completely obstmctn the channel
betweea Ceylon and the continent. In the Hindu mythology it figures
an the route by which tlie demi-pod Kara invaded Ceylon, SlepAat-la,
s Email island, six mites S.E, of Bombay, contains a celebrated, cave-
lemple, in the face of a hill, sculptured with representations of thn
jiersonagea of the Hindu mythology. The Laccadiva consist of 17 small
islands of coral formation, belonging to Britain. The Maidiva, also of
aoral formation, are fertila and well watered, and are governed by a
Sultan, who is tributary to the Britisb. Nearly all the other islands
enuroersted above belong to Great Britain. The A ndamaa. and yicohar
groups came into our possession very recently. Tlie former are densely
wooded and thinly peopled — tie inhabitants being in the lowest stage of
civilisation — and are considered well adapted for a convict settlement.
The NioolmrB belonged to the Danes till 1848, when they finally aban-
doned them ; and the native chiefs have spontaneously hoisted the
British Hag.
Gulft and StraltB.— G. of Kaclih. bet. Kachh and Gujarat ; Mn
of Kachh, N.E, of Kachh; G. of Carabay, E. of the Peninsula of
Knthiawad ; G. of Manor and Palk Strait, betweeu the Kamatak
and Ceylon ; G, of MatWban, S. of Pegn.
I Honntalit aysteroB, ^Northern India contains the Himalaya, the
I loftiest elevations on the earth's surface (see under "Asia," par. 9|.
■ The mountains of Sonthem India, or of the Dakhai], consist of the
' following rangea ; —
1. The ArariUli Movntaini, in R^putana, form the western wall of
the plateau of Malwa, and aeparale the basinn of the Ganges and lower
Indus; Mount Abu, the highest summit, attains an elevation of 50UU
ft. 2. The VinAsa BitU, in Gwahor, Indftr, and Bhopal, 260(1 ft,
lOrm the 3. wall of the plateau, and separate the Jamns trom the Ner-
lindda. 3. The Saii^«ra llilii, 2500 ft., between IndOr and Khan deah,
Boparate the basins of the Nerbndda and Tapti, and are continued to the
east by the Maiadto Hills, 4200 ft. i. The ll'alem O/iAUi, extending
for about 1000 m. along the Konkan and Malal'ar coasts, from tlie
valler of the Tapti to Cape Comorln, form the water-parting between tlie
Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal— thus cnnstitutiiig the W. wall of
the table-land of the Dalthan i their average height ia about 4001} ft. ; bu t
Benassou, the highest nnrnmit, is 7000 ft. They present an abmpt face
to the west and a gentle slope to tho east. Vast cinautities of moisture
are deposited on tliem (see "Climate "), and in tliem ariginata all the
laiger rivers of Sonthem India. 5. The .Vilsirit, 8. of Molsflr, connert
the Western with the Eoateni GhAts, and fonn the S. wall of the plateiiu
of Molsar; highest enmrntt, Dndnbetta, g7B0 ft. At their SAV.
extremity ii the great PalghaiPttit, whicb affords e4iy commnnication
iKtween the Eamatak and Malabar cooM. S. The Eailtm OWi, on the
KEoromandel roast, eitead trtna the NilgiriR in « ?T.E. direction to Bnii-
vand form the E, margin of the plateau of the Dakhan: highHst
imil abnut 360C ft. ; •veiac-''— i'"- ISOOrt.
390 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Table of Bivers and Towns.— See under "Further India."
Lakes. — These are very few, considering the great extent of the
country, and are chiefly confined to the basin of the Indus ; as Mun-
chuTf in Sindh j Wulur, in Kashmir ; Rawan and Mansanywar, at
the sources of the Satlej ; Pulicat, on the coast of the Kamatak ;
and Chilka^ on the Orisa coast. Sambuhrt in Rajputana, yields
great quantities of salt. The most remarkable inlets of the sea are
the Bdn of KacJihy 6000 sq. m., which, in the dry season, is a barren,
sandy desert, interspersed with small salt lakes.
Climate. — The elevated regions of Northern India enjoy a temper-
ate climate, varying with the altitude. Thus, at an elevation of
7000 ft., it resembles fine summer weather in England, while
higher up the Himalayas, the limit of perennial snow is reached at
the height of 16,200 ft. ; but, in the valleys of the Ganges, Indus,
and other low-lying regions farther south, the heat is extreme, and
almost intolerable to Europeans. Here the year is divided into
three seasons — the hot, the rainy, and the temperate.
The hot season commences in March and continues till the beginning of
June. The sun is then scorching, the ground brown and parched, dust
flies in whirlwinds, the brooks become dry, small rivers scarcely keep up
a stream, and the largest are reduced to comparatively narrow channels .
in the midst of vast sandy beds. l%e great rainy season succeeds the
hot, and lasts, with occasional intermissions, till October. The vapours
borne by the S.W. monsoon are condensed on the Western Gh&ts, and
the rain falls in torrents along the west coast. At Bombay 16 inches of
rain have been known to fall in a single day : and at Mahabuleshwar, a
sanatarium on the Western 6h&ts, near Sattara, the fall is 254 inches in
the year, of which 242 fall during the four monsoon months. A smaller
monsoon from the N.E. succeeds that from the S.W., and is the cause of
the principal rains that fall on the E. coast of the peninsula. Sindh,
with the rest of the lower basin of the Indus, is nearly destitute of rain.
The valley of the Ganges resembles Great Britain in respect to the quan-
tity of moisture deposited— thus, at Calcutta, 64 inches fall annually ; at
Benares, 41 ; Allahabad, 27 ; Delhi, 20 ; Mirat, 32. Along the Brahmaputra
the fall of rain is prodigious ; in some places, as at Silhet, it amounts to
209 inches, and at Chimi Pum'i, among the Khasia hills, the annual fall
is ascertained to be 615 inches ! at Najpur, in the Dakhan, the fall is 40
inches ; at Sattara, 40 ; Punah, 24 ; Cape Comorin, 28 ; Madras, 55 ;
Bombay, 75 ; Katak, 50 ; Arakan, 200. The temperate season, extends
from October to the end of February. Though the heat is stiU very
great, slight frosts sometimes occur for an hour or two about stmrise.
The mean temperature of the year ranges from 75° to 90° Fah. On the
])lateau of the Dakhan, it is 75° ; Bombay, 81° ; Madras, 83° ; and at
Calcutta, 90°. The summer heat at Leh is said to amount to 158^
The Geology of India was long imagined to be very aninterestiiUL
but recent investigations have proved it to possess considmQfe
variety. Granite and metamorphic rocks abound in the Dakhaa
and other parts of Southern India, in Orisa, Malwa, and the Hiiniu
laya range. Trap covers an immense area in Western Indiai beti"
Goa and the G. of Cambay, and stretching from the AfMnt
Nagp^r, with outliers at Hajroahal, about the head of ih» 0
; HINDUSTAN,
39!
I
dulta, asJ at Eajamundri, n^ar the apex of tliat of the GoJav^ri. Of
sedimentary rocks, the PaLeoxoic are limited to the Himalayas aiiit
the Pai^at) ; but Uesozolc strata, incladiog ati iureiior kind of coal,
occiir ia the W. of Bangal, Orisa, Behar, the Nerbudda torritory,
Nagjiur, and Kaohh ; while others of lower Cretaceooa age are fouad
in ffie oeighbonrhood of I'ondifdieri and TrichinapaUi. The oldest
Tertiary strata appear to be a Ijower Eocene deposit, for the most
part fresb-water, connected with the trap above mentioned, which is
thus known to have been erupted since the com men cement of t!iB
Tertiary epoch. Middle Eocene beds, in eontinuation of the nnnimu-
Ittia limestone of Southern Europe, £gn'''i ^"'^ Arabia, are developed
in Sindh on the W., and tbe Khasia on tlie E,, betveen which there
■re found, in the SewUlilc or sab-Himalayan rau^e, Upper Uioeene
strata, remarkable for the number aad size of their inimal leiiiaios.
Imiia, unlike more northerly countries, ia destitute of drift ; but its
uirfacB is in many places composed of a red irony clay, ofteo har-
dened into stone, called Laterittt ; whila not uufrequsntly its plains
are covered with a rich black soil, named Kegnr, favoumble to the
cultivation of soil
annwRla.— The mineral resources of India are of the most varieil
eliaracter. Iron and copper are found in all parts of tbe peninsula ;
coal in niany places, as Bengal Proper, the valleys of the Godaveri,
and Nerbtidda, the Tenasserim provinces, Orisa, Silhit ; ROld aiiri
Srecioua atones in the Fanjab, Tenasserim, and the Malabar coast ;
iamonds in Bandalkband, Sambalpttr, and Viiapllr: but the dia-
mond-mines of tlie Fennair, which once supplied the merchants of
Golcondo, are no longer wrought. Salt is found in abundance in the
Panjab and lisjpntana, and sidtpetre in several places,
aotaji7. — The whole of Hindustan south of tbe Himalara. to-
gether with Ceylon, the Eastern Peninsula, and the south of China,
cmnstiCute theseventh phyto-geographic region of Professor Schouw;
while Ma eighth region uompriaos tlie mountains of India butwreii
the elevations of BDOD and 12,000 feet
Tlie fiiat mentioned, which is also called the fndian lUgion, or It/'iion
o/Sc^aipintie and Zingibiracea, is unrivalled for t^e richness of its vege-
tation. Tropical plants are abundant, while tbe eTtrs-tropiual disappear;
Die trees are never deatitute of tiowara, and the niunber of arboreseeoC
verv ntmierouE ; tbe Haweia are lai£e and splendid, and there
' climbmg and parasllioal plants. Tlie principal trees are the
I teak wtuch IS rerkoned Buperiorto oak forsbiphuUding; the saul, smo,
in] babul the coooa-nut. every portion of wiiidi isreodered. avuluMe
392 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
wrhicli 918 are monocotyledons, and 6036 dicotyledons. The eiglUh, or
Emxxiic Regiony embraces the Himalayas above the height of 5000 ft.,
which
JSmodic
and comprises Kashmir, Sirmur, Gurwhal, Kumaon, Nepal, Sikhira, and
Bhotim : here the mean annual temperature ranges from 66** to 37* Fah.
It is sometimes called the Region or Rhododendra, as these form a dis-
tinguishing characteristic of its vegetation. Pines abound, including the
magnificent deodar, together with oaks and other forest-trees common in
Europe, while tropical plants either wholly disappear or are very rare.
The western portion of this region differs from the eastern in having a
damper climate, a predominance of dicotyledonous forests, and a rarity
of coniferous trees. The cultivated plants are the cereals and the orchard-
fruits of Europe, mountain rice, and, in the lower regions, a few tropical
flants. Wheat is raised on the sides of the mountains to an elevation of
0,000 ft. On the banks of the Lower Ganges, and aU around the sea-
coast, rice constitutes the staple food of the inhabitants ; wheat and
maize are largely consumed in tlie North-Western Provinces ; wliUe the
peasantry of the Dakhan depend for subsistence on jowar, bajra, and a
small poor grain called '* raggi." One of the principal cultivated plants of
India is opium, which is chiefly grown in Bengal, parts of Bombay, and
Malwa. Its production and sale form a Government monopoly. The
total value of the opium exported from British India in 1867 was upwards
of £11,000,000. Indigo is chiefly produced in Bengal, in the delta of the
Ganges, whence about £2,000,000 worth is annually raised. Tea is now
largely cultivated in Assam, and coffee of good quality on the NOgiris ;
and the cultivation of the cinchona plant (Peruvian bark) is succeeding
admirably on the high grounds.
Zoology. — The fauna of Hindustan is exhibited in detail under
** Asia," par. 18, where the last column in the different tables shows
the number of species in each order known to exist in this peninsula.
The forests contain a variety of wild animals, the most remarkable
of which are the elephant, rhinoceros, gayal, yak (the latter being
found only on the Tibetan frontier), and bear. Tigers, panthers, leo-
pards, wild-boars, hyaenas, wolves, and jackals, pervade both forest
and jungle. Lions are met with only in particular localities, espe-
cially in Rajputana and Gujarat. Other wild animals are the deer,
antelope, and monkey. The Kashmir goat, noted for its very fine
wool, the silk-worm, and the lac insect, which produces the sticlac
of commerce, are largely reared. Crocodiles, serpents, and other
reptiles, are very numerous, amounting in all to 179 species. There
are 450 species of birds of evei7 variety of plumage. Game and fish
are abundant in all parts of India.
Etlinograpliy. — About six-sevenths of the enormous population of
India are Hindus (an Aryan or Japhetic race) ; the rest are of various
races. Among these are reckoned 10,000,000 Arabs and Persians;
150,000European8, chiefly British; several millions of Afghans, chiefly
located in the North- West Provinces, and professing the Mohamme-
dan religion. In addition to these there are numerous hill- tribes, who
are now regarded as remnants of the aboriginal inhabitants of India.
Thev are of black complexion, speak languages of the Turanian class,
butliave no literature, and almost no traditions. They are known by
the general name of " Coolies," and comprise the Gonds or Khonds
I
I
[KDiA, on HisDUST.AN. 39!l
of OrisB, Ihe BhilK of Mswar, the Warlis and Katodare of tlia
Western GliiLts, thu Cheiien'iirs of the £asteni Gh&ts. anil tbs Yene-
dys of tlie Eamatak. They have Bcarcely any religion, have in
genenl no idea of a fat\iTe state, and belong to the loweat type of
civiliBttlion. (See under " Languancs," No. 3, below.) The Hindus,
though generally s]ioken of as one people, really consist of an irn-
menae number of familiea and races, diflcriiig-widely from each
other in appearance, language, and customa. In general thay a: '
slender build, graceful, agile Egure, Kith a com]]leJL" ' '
a dark olive to a light transparent brown. The laco is
forehead moderately large, the eyes and liair black, the
mouth generally of a European caat.
langaiagM.— Upwards of thirty distinc
India. These nre resolvable into three n
which is confined to the Aryan races, wb
.tered India about 3000 years ago (p. 86), tl
raiding from
. languages are spoken in
,ain divisions, the first of
I are believed to have en-
le second and third to the
t THE SASSCBIT, the AKCffiNT
LUIOCAOB OF THE BRAHMINS, IN WHICH THEIR SaCBED BoOKS ARE
WHITTEN.— These are spoken by the Hindus proper of Northern India,
and coroprlse the Btngalee, Auamae, and Uriya, or Oriia, in the Lower
Provinces— the lirat of which is spoken by about 30,000,000 ; Biidi or
Bindwcft, very closely allied to the Sanscrit, and the most general Ian
pisge of the Hindu race, in Oudb and the North-Wert Provinces ; Hin-
cjiutoflt or Urdu, a distinct language from the Hinduwee, though resem-
bling it in idiom and construction. It can claim predonjinance in no
Erticutar locality, but is spoken by the Mussulmans in every part of
dia, and especiallv within the limits of tiie Hinduwee area, ae in
Delhi. Lukhnow, Allahabad, Patna, and Murabidabad, It isnow adopted
by the Indian GovemmeTit as the general medium of communication
with the natives, is the language of official documents and courts of jus-
tice, and by far the most lisetul to foreigners visiting India, whether in
an official or commercial capacity. Palpa, Eianriiiit, and OvrvAaL W.
of Nepal, and N. of the Hinduwee, to which they ars closely allied.
Gajarattii, Kacklia, Sindhre, and MnUait, W. of the flinduwee, which
they greatly referable. .Silk or Panjabfi, is the Isngu^a of the Sikha in
the Psnjsb, and derived from the now extinct Praci-it, formerly the ver-
nacular language of this region. Dogara or Janbn, in the hill country
N. of the Panjab, and Haiim/rian in the valley of Kashmir, are the
most northerly of the Sansoritic languages in India. Nepattu, in Nepal,
eihibita the phenomenon of a Hindnwee element engrafted on a language
of monosyllabic strnctu™. It has so much in commoii, however, with
the Tibetan of Bhotan, Ladakb, and Bultistan, that some wrilera reKard.
it as a corrupt Tibetan dialect. The Makraila, between the Arabian
Sea and Nagpur, and between the Tantl and the Portuguese district of
Gob, besides the great body of words derived from the Sanscrit, contains
a few that may be connected with the non-Sanscritlc langnages of the
Dakhan. In addition to thcabovemay be mentioned the Cjt'aiit, Mamur,
JtcHTeUe, Cdtypui'a, Bitatiefr, and other dialects of Kajpntanaand Central
Iiitlla-~^1 allied to the Hinduwee, and spoken by upwards of 12,000,001
of thfl population. 2. Lanouaoes OF the Daehab. *— These, in conimmi
with the foregoing, were long eonsidered as tbe immediate descendants o{
Uie Sawcrit ; but after closer investigation they are now generally re-
the DnTldlul [unQ]r of buira»^».
't» a
394 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
garded as the remnanta of an Indo-Turanian tongue, which at a very re-
mote period prevailed over the whole peninsula — slight traces of it being
still discernible in the purest Sanscritic dialects of the north. The lan-
guages of the Dakhan, in words relating to common worldly affaire and in
grammatical structure, are essentially oiflFerent from the dialects of North-
em India. It would therefore appear that there are in the Dakhan races
who were driven to the south at an early period of antiquity by the Hindu
invaders, from whom they received their religion, laws, and civilisation.
The most northerly of these is the Telinga or Telvmiy on the Coromandel
coast, nearly^ the whole of Haidarabad, part of Berar, and the eastern
part of Maistu:, extending northwards to the river Glanjam, and south-
wards to Pulicat. It is the softest and most polished of the languages of
Southern India^ and contains the greatest portion of Sanscrit words,
which, however, form no part of its basis. Vanarese or Kaiiiata, S. of
the Mahratta area, extending eastward till it meets the Telinga and
Tamul dialects, and southwards to the Nilgiris. It greatly resembles the
Telinga and Tamul, and is spoken by upwards of 7,000,000 of people.
Tulu and Malayalimt on the Canara and Malabar coasts, between the
Western Gh&ts and the sea, and from Goa to Cape Comorin. These are
closely allied to each other and to the Tamul, of which indeed they may
be regarded as dialects. Tamul, the language of the ancient kingdom of
Dravira, is spoken in the entire S.E. portion of the peninsula, from
Pulicat to Cape Comorin, and from the Indian Ocean to the Western
GhAts. It also prevails in the north part of Ceylon, and altogether it is
the language of 7,000,000 people. It is usually considered the type, or
generic form, around wliich all the other languages of Southern India
arrange themselves, as it possesses fewer afSnities with the languages of
Sanscritic origin than any other dialect of the Dakhan. The Cingalese,
in Central and Southern Ceylon, considerably resembles the Tamul in
construction and idiom ; but Pali, a dead language closely allied to the
Sanscrit, is the learned and religious language of the island. 3. The
Languages op the barbabous Tribes op the Mountains.— These
remain, hitherto, rude and unwritten ; but so far as they have been exa-
mined they more resemble the second than the first group. Several
curious instances of affinity have been traced between some of them and
the Turanian of Central Asia ; and little doubt remains that the wild
tribes speaking them belong to the true aborigines of the country, and
are quite distinct from the Hindus of Northern India.
Religion. — The principal forms of religious belief prevailing in
India and adjacent territories are Brahminism, Buddhism, Jaiuism,
Mohammedanism, Nanukism, Parseeism, and Christianity.
1. Brahminism is the religion of nine-tenths of the whole population of
India Proper, and thus numbers among its votaries at least 170,000,000
of people. The Brahmins entered India from the N. W. side of the Indus,
about B.O. 1100, and speedily subdued the former inhabitants, whom they
compelled to embrace the religion of the conquerors, which consists of a
variety of the most degrading superstitions and idolatrous rites. Though
their first sacred writings, called the Vedas, written in the ancient San-
scrit, inculcate the existence of one Supreme Being, yet, in subsequent
books, named Puranas, many millions of subordinate deities are recognised,
who administer the system of the universe. Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva,
are the three persons of the Hindu trinity, and the principal objects of
worship. A doctrine somewhat resembling the Incarnation of the Saviour
finds a place in the Hindu mythology — Vishnu, the second pei-son of
their trinity, being supposed to luive freqnently api^eared on earth, i:
is form
, for the
true reltnion, pcatectiug
pnipoaa of destroyiug e
a, epreading ths
benehcea
■
■
I
reHftior., ^ ^ _._ ,
Another leading doctrine of the Brahniine is the IraTumiffralion i^'iokU.
After death, the soul, they believe, pas&ea into other bodies, either of men
oT inferior auinmls, according to tlie purity or inipurity of the previous
life. After agca have pnased in thia procesi of purilication, it ia at length
absorbed into tlio essence of the Supreme Beins, and eo loses its identity.
Brahminisni ia further characteriaeil by muitiplied forms and ceremonies,
fatiguing pilgrimages, rigoroUB faatii^, acts of the moat revolting un-
deannesa, and the wilful ^aerifice of life. But tlie system of coife is the
jnain pillar of thia ancient hut monstrous auparatitlnn. Originally there
were but four castes — the £raA«uu, or priests, theologiaua, and physi-
cians; tlie Kikalrj/as, or military order; the Vaii/joi, or agriculturists,
merchants, and herdsmen ; and the Sadras, or artisans, labourers, and
servaut*. In the couise of ages these four ordere have become greatly
Intermingled, and, with the exception of the first and last, possess now
little piactical influence. The evils of caste, however, still remain un-
mitigated, aa every trade and occupation has come to be regarded as a
separata caste, the members of which refuse to est, drinli, or intermarry
■with those of any other caste. Certain cksaes of crime are puElshed by
lofca
is suddenly plunged into hopek
no caste, are termed Pariahs li
lu the N., and a
entire population. In the
ir persons
of
<n rights of hi
he S., Mahaura in the W., and Dhatra
constituting, it is said, one-lifth of the
towns they are confined to separate quarters
degrading occupations; the; ' " '
', and a Brahmin is contamin
The oriRb of caste in India.
other ancient countries, is lost in the darkness of the j. _„...
Bnhl^l and others conjecture, with much probability, that the lower
castes are the aboriginal inhabitants, reduced by their Brahminlcal con-
rrom to their present condition of degradation. 2. Bvddhiim, at one
B the predominant religion of the country, is now professed only In
Kiotan, Ceylon, and Arakhan. Buddha, i^ founder, regarded by the
Brahmina aa one of the ineamations of Vislmii, appeared as the reformer
of Brahminlsm about S\M B.C. The province of Behar appears to have
bMn bis native place. So far as his influence extended, he abolished
oaats, reformed the creed, and changed many of the rallgions observances
of Brahmiuism. A bloody and long-continued war arose between his
foUowBTS and the Brahmins ; but the latter ultimately prevailed, and e:
pelled the Buddhists to Ceylon, Further India, and other •-- -'—
the hc^ioning of the siitb century of our era. (See c.
3. Jaintnn, a mixture of Brahminism and Buddhism, has n
votaries in Central and Western India. It did not assume importance
till the eighth or ninth century of the Christian era. 4. Maiammedanism
embraces about 25,000,000 of the population, principally Afehans and
Arabs, who are most numerous in the Paryab, Knshmir, the North- West
Provinces, and parts of the Dakhan. The Arabic language is here, as
everywhere else, the depository of the Mohammedan faith. The Mobam-
nedao invasion of India commenced in the eleventh and was completed
la the Hfteenth century, hut most of the Mohammedans now in that
country have descended from a Hindu stoek. 5. Xatutitm or Sitiitm,
the religion of the Sikhs, is a oompound of Brahminism and Mohanimed-
■nlua, and is professed by about half a millioa of people. Nanuk, its
Led the
d if he should
in EgJTt and
396 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
founder, a native of the Panjab, was born in 1469. 6. Parsetism. or Fiit-
worship, is the religion of the refugees from the relldous persecutions of
Persia. Though small in number, they are distinguished for their pubhc
munificence, skill, and their success in commerce. Zoroaster, the founder,
or rather the reformer, of Parseeism, was bom at Urumiah, in Azerbijan,
B.C. 589, and was therefore a contemporary of Buddha. 7. CJirigtianity
was introduced into India in the third century, since which there have
been Sjrrian Christians in the S.W. of the country. The Portngua<i6
established missions on the W. coast in the sixteenth century. In the
seventeenth the Reformed religion was introduced by the Dutch, but
with little success. In 1793 the Baptist Missionary Society sent out its
first agents to Bengal (Carey and Thomas), and, soon after, several other
societies followed their example. In 1862 there were 31 missionary so-
cieties, having 371 stations, 519 foreign missionaries, 140 native mission-
aries, 1365 native catechists, 1190 churches, Avith a communion roll of
81,249. By the census of 1872, the Christian community numbered
nearly 900,000, or one for every 200 of the population, and even of these
about 250,000 were Europeans, while 9-10th8 of the remainder were
Boman Catholics. Slowly but surelv the religion of Jesus is undermining
the hoary idolatries of India. The harvest truly is great, but the labour-
ers are few.
Science and Literature. — The whole circle of Hindu knowledge is
divided Into eighteen parts, of which the first four are the Vedas,
These are regarded as an immediate revelation from heaven, and as
containing the true knowledge of God, of His religion, and of His
worship. Next to the Vedas rank four Upavedcbs, which comprise
the knowledge of medicine, music, and other arts. After these
follow six VedangaSf which relate to pronunciation, grammar, pro-
sody, religious rites and ceremonies ; and finally, four Upangas,
which treat of logic, philosophy, jurisprudence, and history.
The Vedas are undoubtedly the most ancient compositions in the
whole range of Sanscrit literature. Sir W. Jones fixes their date at B.c.
1500 ; Colonel Vans Kennedy, at B.c. 1200; while the learned Bitter, who
has investigated the subject with the greatest care, believes they were
either collected or composed from B.C. 1400 to B.C. 1000. Their high
antiquity, combined with the obsolete dialect in which they are written,
is such as to render the reading of them difficult even to the Brahmins.
A complete collection of the Vedas, obtained by Colonel Polier, from
Jaypur, is now deposited in the British Museum, in eleven large folio
volumes. A translation of these, by Professor H. H. Wilson, appeared
in 1867. From the analyses that have been given of their contents, the
very important fact appears that the science of these books is as false as
their theology — a most auspicious fact, certainly, to the missionary enter-
prise in India. Inferior to the Vedas in antiquity, but regarded as
equally sacred, are the famous Institutes of Menu, consisting of a com-
plete system of criminal jurisprudence, divided into twelve books. Sir W.
Jones assigned them to B.C. 880, but Ritter is of opinion that the different
parts belong to diflFerent times. These laws— being regarded as sacred by
upwards of a hundred millions of people, whose habits of life have been
moulded by their influence for so many generations — must ever form an
object of the deepest interest to the philosopher and historian ; and it
would be impossible to comprehend the literature or local usages of India
without a knowledge of their contents. Previous to the compilation ci
INDIA, OR HINDUSTAN'. 3!i7
I tliia legal coda thure n-ore coniitosEil tiio grand epic popins — ttie MiMb-
' limt, or tlis wars of Krlshii;!, in eighteen caiitDS ; anil the Hama^ana,
I which narrates the banishment and wanderings of liaiiia, a prince belong-
I ing ta the dvuaaty of the kings of Ayodhya. The next mast intportant
[ diriaiou of tlie Hinda sacred books coueists of the Pcranas. These are
I divided, into two classes, each containing eighteen books. They consist
I of poetieal representations of Indian mythology and fabnlous history, and
I liold an eminent rank in the religion and literature of the Hindus. TUey
I ngutate their ritual, direct their faith, and supply, in popular legendary
I tale?, raaterials foe their credulity. Besides theology and poetry, the
Banaurit literature embraces philosophy, jurisprudence, matheniatict,
liistory, geography, medicine, fables, tsles, and dramatic compositions.
Its poetry has assumed almost all the forms to be met with in Europe,
■nd in every form it is cliaracterised by consummate beauty and eicet-
lenoB. The most celebrated of its heroic poets is Volmiki, wlio hsu lieeu
likened to Ilomor; in the drania, C£id£a has been designated as the
Indian Shakespeare j while Vy&a has beeu compared to Uiltou.
Ednoatlon. — The great body of the people ai'e sunk in the deepest
ignorance. Even among the Brahmins superior education is very
partially diffused, most of tlicra being ignorant of their own sacred.
^ and professional language. Some of the higher classes exhihit-an
L eisj epistolary style, tliougli most of them can only read nud sign
I their names. The few who advance beyond reading and ciiiherini;
I atudy only the native sacred books, and hench their i-iews arc very
limited and erroneous. The female sex is everywhere kept in a state
of savage ignorance, as also the pariahs or people of no caste. Tli<!
Britiati Government devotes laudable attention to the education of
the natives, having, since 1854, established 25,147 schools, with an
nttendaoee of 800,000 pupils. Besides these tlivre are uuiversilics
at Calcutta, Madras, and Bomlia}-, and colleges in eleven other Inrne
towns. Humerous schools have been founded hy some of the niissioii-
I mry societies, and by private munificence. The Euglish language is
I taught in all the Government schools, as well as most other branches
P of a sound popular eduration. The natives of all classes, at least in
the presidency seats and a few of the larger cities, exhibit tbe
ritest eagerness to avaQ themselves of a good English edncatiou
their children ; and some of the colleges and schoius have already
Erodaced acc^implished scholars. Unfortnnately, however, for the
ighest success of the Government seminaries, the Bible is systemnti-
uallv excluded, though ready access is accoitled to the aacred books
of the natives.
QoTBniment, Army and Kavy, ftc. — In the numerous native stales,
whether Indepoiident or Protected, the government is invariably ti
pure despotism— the people being everywhere crushed to the earth
liy their rapacious aud un]irincipled sovereigns. Tbe relation of
tfiesB to the British Government is indioated above, under "Politiol
Divisions." Since 1 856, the government of British India is vested
in a Governor-General and Council, wlio reside at CalcDtta ; and a
Sficretary of State for Indili, with a Council of fifteen members, in
London. The administration was previously in the hands of a body
of merchants, called tba lilait Iniiia Compaiiy, but salijeut to the
398 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
supervision of the British Parliament, through the medium of the
Board of Control, whose President was a Cabinet Minister. The East
India Company was incorporated by Queen Elizabeth in 1600 : it
had a capital stock of £6,000,000, shared in different proportions
among 3600 individuals. The Mogul emperor gave them permission
to establish a factory at Surat in 1611 ; their nrst establishment at
Madras was formed in 1648 ; and Fort-William, at Calcutta, was
erected in 1699. From that time, partly by treaty and partly by
conquest, their authority had extended over the greater part of the
peninsula. But the expiry of their charter in 1858, the lamentable
events of the recent formidable insurrection, and other causes, have
induced the British Government to take the immediate superintend-
ence of their vast possessions in India into their own hands. The
total armed force in India, previous to the rebellion of 1857, amount-
ed to 729,385— viz., in British India, 289,457 (of whom 86,608 were
Europeans, and 202,849 native sepoys) ; Protected and Independent
states, 398,918 ; contingent troops, commanded by British oflScers,
41,010. Almost the whole Bengal native army, numbering 97,511
men, joined in the mutiny of 1857. In 1870, the number of British
soldiers serving in India was 62,693, while the native troops in the
British army amounted to 114,750 men.
Commerce, Manufactures, ftc. — The commerce of British India is
extensive, and is chiefly carried on with Britain, China, Japan,
France, and Australasia. The principal part of its Exports, which
consists of opium, raw cotton, cinchona bark, spices, rice, indigo and
other dyes, raw silk, tea, jute, salt, saltpetre, is conveyed to the
United Kingdom. The total value of the exports for 1873 amounted
to £56,525,000, of which £30,000,000 value came to the United
Kingdom; China and Japan took about £12,000,000; France,
£2,364,000 ; Singapur and Malaya, £2,000,000. China and Japan
are its principal customers for opium ; France and Great Britain for
indigo, silk, and tea ; while America precedes France in the articles
of silk and saltpetre. The value of the imports into India for the
same year amounted to £35,817,000, one-half of which came from
the United Kingdom. These consisted chiefly of cotton goods and
yarn, railway materials, machinery, coal, copper, iron, lead, spelter,
and other metals, jewellery and other precious stones, woollen goods,
silk goods, raw silk, spirits, wines, stationery, and salt. The opium
grown in India is sent to China in exchange for tea and silk, which
are then sent to England, and thus the British public is implicated
m this scandalous traffic so ruinous to the teeming millions of that
vast empire. The restrictions which formerly hindered the commerce
of India and retarded the development of its resources, have been
gradually removed, and the country now enjoys free trade. The manu-
factures mainly consist of articles for home consumption, as silks, mus-
1ms, and chintzes, together with gold and silver embroidery in Delhi
and the Panjab ; Kashmir shawls of the finest texture in Kashmir ;
and jewellery, toys, and ornaments at Benares and many other large
towns. The Receipts for 1870 amounted to £52,942, 480, the Expendi-
ture to £53,568,076, and the Public Debt (for 187.J) to £105,470,000.
fuhtheb 1
399
I
I
Internal Communloatlon. — The infernal commerOT of India hns
teen vastly developed duting the last few j-eai's by the constnictiaii
of Eeveral great lines of ra^vut^, in the accomplishment of nhich
the greatest engineering dlffleulties liBve been overcome. One line,
the East Indian, traverses tlie haaia of tbe Ganges from Calcutta to
Delhi. 2. The Qi-eat Indian Peninsular, Bhich, starting from Bom-
bay, joins the Klast Indian line at Jabalpur, wbile another branch of it
joins the Madras line at Raichnr. 3. The Madras line, connecting
Madras with Raichur, and Madras with Beypnr on tlie Malabar
coast *. The Sindh, Pan.iab, and Delhi lines ; the first connet^tiiig
the port of Karachi with Kotri at the head of the Indus delta ; tJie
second connecting Multan with Amiitiar; and the third joining
Amritsar and Deliji, and so connecting the basins of the Indus and
Ganges. The total nnmber of miles open in ISli was 5ST3, and
1850 more were either projocttd or ■were in course of construction,
Indian canals are on a vast scale, hut are employed more for irriga-
tion than for tmCGs. The chief of these are the Ganges Canal (one
of the greatest of the kind in the world), 526 m. in length, extending
ftom Uaridwar on the Ganges, proceeds by MiraC to Allighur, with
branches to KanhpQr and HamirpQr. Other great canals are the
jamna Canal, Doab Canal, Godavari Canal, Kriatna Canal, and
Karari Canal. Telegraphic communication is rapidly on the in-
ct«ue. In 1873 there were lfi,700 m. in operation, besides 1205
in. of submarine cable between >Suez and Aden, and 1871 m. from
Aden to Bombay.
FURTHER INDIA.
FoBTHEB India, also called the South- Eastern Peninsula
and the Indo-Chinese States, consiBta of an MBerablaBe of states
Ijring between India and China, and forming together tte eastern-
most of the three great peninsulas of Asia.
Bonndaries.— N., China Proper and Tibet ; W., India and
the Bay of Bengal ; S. and E., the China Sea. Situated be-
tween lat. 1° 10' and 27° N., and between Ion. 91° 45' and
109° 9* E., it emiffacea 26° of latitude and 17° of longitude.
Bangkok, the cap. of Siam, near the centre of the peninsula,
lies on the same parallel as San Salvador, Cape Verd, L.ike
Tchad, Mocha, and Madras.
Are* and Pairaiatloii.— These arc rery uncertain, owing te our
imiierfect knowledge of the coantry, but according to the best
anthoritiea, tlie area is about 889,105 sq. m., and the population
26,S3e,000. The statistics of the diiferent states are as follows :^
400
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
British Possessions,
Birma,
Siam,
Malaya,
Anam or Cochin-China,
Lower Cochin -China and Cambodia,...
Area in
Square Miles.
93,664
190,510
309,000
45,000
220,000
45,000
Population.
2.562,496
4,000,000
6,000,000
200,000
12,000,000
1,500,000
Thus the entire population is considerably less than that of the
British Isles, while the area is seven times greater. The British
possessions, equal in size to Great Britain, do not nearly equal Scot-
land in point of population. The independent portion of Birma is
three times larger than England, but has only one-fifth its popula-
tion. Siam^ with ten times the area, has not double the population
of Scotland ; while Anam, with double the population of Ireland,
has nearly seven times its area.
Surface and Mountains. — A series of mountain -i*anges running
parallel with the meridians, and enclosing between them long narrow
river-basins, form the most remarkable characteristic of the country.
Tlie Irawadi is at once the great fertiliser and the commercial high-
way of Birma. The upper courses of the Sitang and the Saluen
also flow through the Birmese empire, but very little is known re-
garding them. The Meinam is to Siam, and the Me-Kong or Cam-
bodia to Anam, what the Irawadi is to Birma. The mountains of
Arakhan, between the Irawadi and Bay of Bengal, attain an eleva-
tion of 5600 ft., while Tidi-bang-sa in Malaya rises to an altitude
of 6561 ft..
Political Divisions. — The principal political divisions of the
Eastern Peninsula will be found enumerated in the preceding table.
But, besides these, there is a large territory of unknown dimensions
in the very centre of the peninsula, known as the Laos or Shan
states, surrounded by, or intermixed with, the Birmese or Siamese
dominions. Many of the tribes are tributary to these two kingdoms,
but east of 101° they claim to be independent, and live a pastoral
and nomadic life. The narrow poi-tion of the Malay peninsula, as
far south as lat. 5", is subject to Siam, while the territory atill
farther south is divided between several independent chiefs — the
principal of which are Perak, Johore, Pahang, and Salangore. The
Frencn, in 1862, established a colony at the mouth of the river Me-
Kong or Cambodia, which they denominate Lower Cochin-China;
while in 1863 they established a protectorate over the formerly inde-
pendent kingdom of Cambodia. The towns in the British posses-
sions have been enumerated under Hindustan ; those of the other
states are as follows : —
:RTl<Eli INDIA.
4J1
), Blian.0
— Srandelay, Moncholio 5, Ava 30, Aniai
I 10 {Irawadi),
SlAM.— Bangkuk 350, Ayutiia 100 (MeiiiDm), Tringanu 60 (Gulf
of Siam), Cmitaburi 30, Phunga 20 (Str. of Malauca).
MiLAYA, — Perak, n., Sakngore, tl. (Str. of Malacca), Joliore, n.,
Pahang (China Sea).
As/L3t OB Cochin-Chika.— Hne 100, Fai-fo IS (China Sea], Eealio
100 (Tonqnin).
Lower Cochis-Ciuka and Cambodia.— Saigou ISO, Udong 12
(HH-KoEg).
DascrlptlTe Notes. ^Oniittlnf; ttie British possuasioiia, there are
in Furtbor India, so lar as kuown to Europeans, only five toivna of
above 100,000 iahabitaiits (Bangkok, Ajuthia, Hufe, Keaho, Saigou),
one between 100,000 and S0,000 (Tringanu), and four between 60,000
and 20,000 (Ara, Aniarapura, Cantaburi, and Phunga].
Uandelay, on the right bank of the Irawadi, is the preee^it cap, of
the BinpirB of Birma. Ava, Amarapnrft, and Jtonchobo were aucceasively
the seats of goverament before Maudelay. The first two were reduced to
mius by an earthquake in IS^JO. Bhamo is a prosperous town, and the
t chief seat of commerce with China, eiportins salt, rice, and gBB^ee, and
I Importhig woollen, cotton, and silk goods. Bangkok, cap. of Siani, by
I far the largest city in the peninsula, is — ■--■--'■- t^-''' - >-
and ia generally styled the Venict " '
China. Ajnthia, tlie former cap. of Siam, was nearly destroyed hv ttje
Birniese in 1767. Cantaburi is a fortiHed seaport, with an eiteushe
eiport trade, and roiiiea of precious stonea in the vicinity. Perak, cap.
i>f a small state in Malaya, which yields tm, rice, and ratans. Balangore,
Johore, and Palang are uii». of Biiiiilur suiall independent states in
the sonthmost part of the Malay peninsula. Hne, a popnious city, cap.
of the eiiiplre of Anam, is unparalleled in the East for the strength and
magnitude of its furtiflcations, which wore ooiiatructed by Freuoh en-
gineers. Sesbo, on the river Tonqnhi, is the cap. ef a nrovinca of same
name whlob ahounda in gold, silver, copper, and iron ; it Is mainly noted
for Its lacquered ware, considered tie finest in the East. Saigon, cap. of
the French colony of Lower Cocldn-China, was seized from the AnauicKe
In 1860 : it is fortified in the European style, and has a naval arsenal and
docks admitting the largest ships, Udong, cap, of Cambodia, formerly
heloDKlng to Siam, and aflern'orda independent, is dow Iriliutan- to
FrJKice.
Capes, IsUndB, QnUa, and Btralti.— See under "Asia." |i. 34S.
mly lake of iinportoiica ia Further India is tin Tnle-
1, is principally built on i
)f the Cast. Tlie city Is
Sab, or "great lake," in Cambodia 4i
Me-Kong. During tlie rainy apunn
It abounds with liaii, and its shorci i
of all kinds.
OUnuLta. — The climate, tlioa^*> ^^ -'
for European constitutions *'■■
1 annual tfunperatnre ranges I
n, and in the basin of tlie
attains gif^tio dimensioiiit.
'e frequented by aquatic biida
402 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
soon, lasting from May till the middle of September, is the winy
season in the W., where the annual fall of rain is from 150 to 200
inches. The N.E. monsoon, lasting from October to April, brings
rain to the E. coast The climate of Malaya is tropical, but the
solar heat is tempered by sea-breezes. Here the thermometer ranges
from 76" to 93*.
Minerals. — Gold, silver, copper, lead, tin, antimony, marble, ser-
pentine, sapphires and numerous other precious stones ; coal, nitre,
sulphur, and petroleum or mineral oil, which is found in vast quan-
tities in Birma. The wells occupy a space of about 16 miles square,
and yield annually about 80,000,000 lb. of asphalt Being cheaper
than any other kind of oil, it is universally used in Birma, notwith-
standing its disagreeable odour.
Botany. — The botany of Further India is similar to that of Hin-
dustan, both being comprised in Schouw's "Seventh Phyto-geo-
graphic Region." (See under ** India.") Forests are numerous, and
yield much valuable timber, among which are teak-trees (admirably
adapted for shipbuilding), trees yielding elastic gums (especially the
taban or gutta-percha tree, and the gamboge, a valuable cathartic
medicine), together with many woods used as dyes and perfumes.
Agriculture is in a very backward state, but rice, cotton, indigo,
tobacco, and the sugar-cane, are extensively grown.
Zoology. — Wild animals are very numerous, including the elephant,
rhinoceros, tiger, leopard, buffalo, bear, hog, civet-cat, deer, ante-
lope, goat, otter, with several species of baboons and monkeys ; the
peacock, parrot, and a variety of other birds of the richest plumage ;
the curlew, plover, and aquatic birds of all kinds. Alligators infest
the large rivers, and the hooded snake, with several other noxious
reptiles, the land. The sea abounds with an inexhaustible supply
of fish. Mosquitoes and other insects exist in great multitudes.
Etlmograpliy. — With the exception of the Malays, who possess
the coasts of the peninsula which bears their name, and the Moys or
negroes, who inhabit the mountains of Cochin-China and Cambodia,
the whole of this extensive region is inhabited by nations of Mon-
golian origin. In physical aspect they greatly resemble the Chinese,
though in certain districts they present a near affinity to the Hin-
dus, to whom, however, they are greatly inferior in civilisation.
The Birmese, however, resemble the Malays, though in appearance
and language they approximate more closely than the latter to the
inhabitants of Hindustan. With the exception of the Malayan (for
which see under "Oceania") the Languages spoken in the Indo-
Chinese states are all of the monosyllabic class and allied to the
Chinese, but with many polysyllabic terms engrafted from Hindu
and other sources. The tongues most widely spoken are the Bir-
mese, Arakhanese, Peguese, Siamese, Laos or Law, Cambodian, and
Anamite. The Religion of the entire peninsula is 13uddhism, except
in Malaya, where Mohammedanism prevails, and in parts of Anam,
where the higher classes are disciples of Confucius. The most ab-
FrETHEE n.TrA. 403
JKt anperstitioB prernila pvcrj-wLfire, and the groHSest iiiolntrics ara
prefirised. The introduetim) of ChriGtiftnitj boB made great changes
snong the rude liiU tribes of Birmit, and the jhhheb of Cnrcy and
Jodaou will be hold in lasting remembroDce tlii'oaglioDt the Cliriatiait
world. Never in modem times bare tbe iniraiomuies of the cross
been sobjected to snth bitter siiffeiines imd privstione as tbose whirb
thej dtdared in propa^ting tbe faith in Birmo. The French Jesuit
DiismrinBiies have a seminary and other BchoolB in Siam ; while in
Bai^kok, American ProtfStant missionaries piint and lirculats tha
Bible in Siamese and Chinese langcages. Eeading and writing are
more generallj diffused in Blima than among an; poodle of the
East. A translation of tliE entire Bible in the Bimiese language was
eompleteJ bj Jndson in IBBl.
Qorenmaut, tec. — In these conntries abBolntiaro and trranny
havt been carried to the higbesl entreroe, and the iiiost servile suV
mis^on is exacted by the monarchs from all clasBes of tbeir subjects.
In Birma and Siam the people are prohibited, under paiu of death,
from pronouncing the emperor's name. Tbe laws are Ban^inary,
md the punishments awarded are marked bv the greatest craelty.
"WitJi the exoeption of the priests and public funitionarieB, every
male iDhahitant is ohligEd to devote not less than erery third year
of his life to the public service, either as a soldier or as a labourer ;
wMle emigration is rsgarded as a treasonable offence, and equivalent
to a theft of the prince's property. The Public Kevenne of Binua,
which doea not probably exceed £25,000, is derived from a tithe at
the profils oa cultivation, from fisherieE, minea, and petralenm ttpIIe,
and from a poll-tai levied on the nnsettled tribes. In 1870 the Int-
port8ofSiiimttmDuntedto£l,lG7,6B7, BndtheEipnrtstofl,S17,S22.
There is no etanding army in Siam, bat every mule is liable to serve
Tor K portion of the year, and nsmeroos war-jun^ are kept up, which
■re maimed by Chinese and other foreigners. Anam has a standing
srmy of about 50.000 men, besides the royal gusrd, and 600 ele-
phants. The nary consists of SOO gun-boats, IDO galleys, and 500
smaller vessels.
Donimerce and Maanttctpres. — In a comTnercial point of view,
Biam is tbe most iiuportaut Indo-Chinese stale, and carries on an
ertenaivB intercourse with China, Java, and SiuBopur, There are
few roads in the country, but a nsiTBable caoal connects tha Weinam
and Cambodia. The Intc king, who died in 1 S51, was an enlighteneil
iDonaTch, who trained his troops in the European manner, made
emals and roads, built ships, introduced steamers, encoumged arts
at>d commerce, and established printing from types— previously nu-
known in Siam. Tbe principal mannfactnres in ^am are vases, uru^
I eold-beating, iron -foon ding, fine cloth, gla^-wares, and pottcrv.
I Mines of copper, iron, lead, and tin are abnndnnt and estensirely
bt. The commercial traiiBacti'>ns of the BirmeEe are iodi-
[]y on a small scale, though the aggregate is considerable,
pal exports, raw cotton, teat-wood, catechu, Btick-lac, bees-
, wax, slepluuitE' teetli, gold, and silver. The Binnese are celebrated
404
POLITICAL GEOGRAPUY.
for bell-casting and gilding, dyeing silk and other fabrics. The
chief outlet for its commerce is China. The people of the Laos sell
ivory, skins, gold, musk, gums, &c., to the Chinese and Siamese in
exchange for pottery, glass, &c. This country also furnishes the
enormous trees of which the Chinese make masts for their largest
war-junks. The French colony exports dried fish, cocoa-nut oil,
bufl'alo hides and horns, mats, Arakhan nuts, cotton, rice, sugar,
tobacco, and silk. In Anam the emperor monopolises all the foreign
trade, in which five ships are employed — the commerce being con-
ducted for the most part with Canton, Batavia, and British India.
Table of Bivers and Towns. — The following table, which is in
continuation of that given under Biluchistan, embraces all the most
important rivers and towns of Hindustan and Further India. The
rivers belong to three great basins — viz., those of the Arabian Sea,
Bay of Bengal, and the China Sea.
Basins inclined to
Rivers. Towns. \
Ibdus, Karachi, n. , Thattha,
Haidarabad, Sbik-
arpor, Iskardo.
Gnnrlava, Gundava, n., Kelat.
Naii, Dadur.
Satlej, I Bhawalpur, Ludhi-
ana, Sirhind, n. ,
Ambala.
Clienab, .... Multan.
llavi,2.. ..Lahur, Amritsar, n.
Jehlum, . . Kashmir.
Bias Jallundar, n.
Kabul Peshawar, Jelalabad,
Kabul, Istalif, n.
Kamah, ....Kandeisu, n., Chit-
tral.
the Arabian Sea.
Rivers. Totons.
Logur, Ghuznee^ n.
G. of Cutch, Bhuj, n.
Luny, JooHPUR, n., Pali.
Ajmir.
Suraswutty, ..Puttun, Palihmpur.
G. of Canibay, ..Gambay.
Sabarmati, .. . . Ahmadabad.
Mahi, Baroda.
Nerbudda, .... Gurrah, Jabalpur,
Mondlah.
Taptl, Surat.
KonkanShoi-e, ..Bombay, Pakjim,
Goa.
Kanara Coast, . Mangalur.
Malabar Coast, ..Kalikut, Cochin, Tri-
VANCERAM.
Basirts inclined to the Bay of Bengal.
Kaveri, Tranquebar, Tanjur,
Trichinapalli, Serin-
gapatam, Mysur.
Punnair, Bengalur.
CoromandelCo.,.PoNDiCHERi, Madras.
Palar Arcot, Vellur.
Ki-ishna Nizainpatnaro, n., Ma-
chhlipatnam, Kola-
pur.
Musi, I Haidarabad, Sikan-
darabad.
Tungabhadro, . Kamul.
Hinderi, .... Ballari.
Bimah, I Punderpur.
Muta-Mula, . Puna.
Godaveri, Rajamahendrie, Nasik.
Weingunga, I . . Seuni.
Kanhau Kampti.
Nag, Naopur.
Mai^jera, Beder.
Puma, I Assaye.
Dudhna, .... Aurangabad.
Nuglandi, Shikacolam.
Mahanadi, Puri, Katak, Sam-
BHALPUR.
Ganges Calcutta, Chandnia-
far, Kalna, Plassy,
loglipur, Patna,
Benares, Mirza-
pur, Allahabad.
Kanhpnr, Farruck-
habad, Haridwar.
Damuda, Bardhwan.
Atri, 1 81KHIM.
Cosa Purneah.
Bishnmati,. . . . Patan, Khatm andu.
Fulgo Behar, Gaya.
Sone, Suhagpm*.
Murar, Siroujah.
Gbagia, I Oadli, Faizabad.
lUplI, I .
Boiini iiwliiKd It Bay
Nilkomir,..
Godadfl.....
.,iii=d).
.8h»hjabappur, lliib-
jrfr^ "■■"""
.Kd8h-Beh.ii,
Botwa,...
..Dntlys, Jhausi, Bho-
Cbsmiwi,
DB*It
::DEwXDjJ«ln. Iscuit
■iBAHEiLLT, MoraJBlia-l,
Rampur, AuMoni,
Bosfni iiui.'n«Ef
aJodoiT, Puluiig.
..TringaBn, Ligor. Cia-
Pira,!
Kongbo...
Sitang
.T-rago.
liamguue
"SK-SiSr
. nrSliiTii, ..
ToonB-tchang-fou,
Ksn-rung, d., Chnnu-
Ling.™. Yu.B^
Kiang.
THE CHINESE EMPIRE.
Boundaries. — N., Siberia; W., Siberia, Turkestan, and
Kushimr; B., Hindustan and Further India; E., tlie Pacific
( Ocean. It extends from lat 18° to 53° 28' N., and from Ion.
[ 77- to 136° E.
The prorince Kan-sii, in the N.W. of Cliina proper, forma ttie centre
. of tMa gigantic empire, and ia In the samu lat. aa the aouth of Spaiii,
Sicily, Cypnis, Kashmir, Yeilo, Calitomia, and N. Carolina ; wliile Pekin,
tliBcspital of the empire, is on the esrae parallel ns Madrid, Naples, Con-
■WntinoplB, Bokhara, and New York. The total area ia roughly esti-
mated at 4,117,000 eq. m., and the popnlatioa at 425,000,000. It em-
braiea fully two-sevenths of the Asiatic continent, or one-twelfth of tlia
land aarface of tho globe, and contains two men out of every five of tlia
hmnaD race (see p. 93). It emhraces nearly the whole of the grEat easleni
plateau of Asia; is aitnalfld almost wholly within the north temperate
lane; holds the seftboard of the largest ooenn from the 0. of Tonqitiri
(lat. 20°) to Victoria Bay (lat. 41° N. ) ; and is traversed hy several of tlie
' — — " — ' ' "■ '. atupandona monntain-rangea or "
__f_ -^ ■-- '---^len obliged to C£_- „
and its tributary t^e
406 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHV.
Argun, together %vith a large tract of country between the mouth of the
Anioor and Victoria Bay. Still more recently (1864), the vast region
formerly known as Chinese or Eastern Turkestan, in the extreme west of
the empire, has thrown off the yoke of China and become independent.
The existing chief divisions, therefore, of the Chinese Empire are, China
Proper, Mongolia, and Tibet.
CHINA PROPER.
Boundaries. — N., Mongolia ; W., Tibet and Birraa ; S.,
Anani, and the China Sea ; E., the Pacific Ocean. Lat. 18" —
42* N. ; Ion. 98** — 122" E. Shanghae, on the central parallel, is
nearly in the same latitude with Marocco, Alexandria, Jeru-
salem, Lahur, and the head of the G. of California.
Area and Population. — The estimated area is 1,609,500 sq. m.,
and the population 405,000,000, or 293 per sq. m. The greatest
length is 1600 m., while the breadth varies from 900 to 1300 m. It
is twelve times the area of the British Isles ; considerably larger than
Hindustan, it contains nearly double its number of people, or one-
third of the whole human race. Incredible as this density of popula-
tion may appear, it does not much exceed that of the British Isles,
and is greatly less than that of Belgium, though it is more than
double that of Hindustan.
Surface and Mountains. — The eastern half of China Proper, con-
sisting mainly of the lower basins of the Pei-ho, Hoang-ho, Yang-tse,
and Canton River, is, for the most part, a great alluvial plain, cele-
brated for its fertility and the unrivalled density of its population.
This plain, varying in breadth from 150 to 400 m., and embracing
an area of about 210,000 sq. ra., lies E. of the meridian of 110*.
The western half is highly mountainous. The Yun-ling, which
separates China Proper from Tibet, runs from N. to S. between the
upper courses of the Hoang-ho and Yang-tse, and attains an eleva-
tion of 12,000 ft. From this backbone of the country three lateral
ranges proceed eastward to near the coast — viz., the Yu-ling, S. of
the Canton River ; the Nan-ling, 8000 ft. high, between the Canton
River and the Yang-tse ; and the Pe-ling, between the Yang-tse and
Hoang-ho. The coasts are low, and in some parts swampy, except
between the mouths of the Canton River ana the Yang-tse, where
they are high and rocky.
Political DivlBlons. — China Proper is divided into nineteen pro*
vinces, each of which, on an average, is considerably lai^ger than
Oreat Britain. Formerly the number of provinces was eighteen, but
now the province of Leao-Tong, north of the Great Wall, u induded,
as it forms an appanage of the royal family. Onl^ a limited number
of the great cities of China is given in the followmg lifts, and en
j these ai-e still very imperfectly known to Enropeaiilb
:: tiiiNEsK EJiriiiE.
Sbten Easteks 0
Provinces.
I
Quaag-timg.— Canton 1200, Victoria 30. Macno 52, Cliow-king
(Cboo), Lieu-chow {S. coast), Chow-choo (Hao), Sn-atow (E, coast),
Kisn-cliow 100 (I. Hainan).
FD-Uen. — Foo-cliow 1000, Yen-ping (Min), Amoy 250, Cliang-
chow 800 t. (Fo-kien Chan.), Tai-wan (I. Formosa).
OIie-Klaug, — Hang-chow 700 (Taicn-long), Wan-chow n., Tai-cliow
n., Hing-po 200 ii. (const).
Eang-aiL— Nanking 500 (Yang-tse), Shanghae 135 (Woo-snng),
Soo-choo 1500 (Gt. Canal), Hwai-ngan {Hoang-ho).
Shan-tmiB. _ TBi-nan (Talsin), Yen-chovf n., Tong-cliang (GL
Canal), Teng-chow (G. Pe-chi-li).
OM-IL— Pekikg or PskiLi 1348 n. (Pei-ho), Tien-tsin (Ea-ho).
leao-tong or Chlng-Slng, — Moukden (I-eao-ho), King-cliow, Tung-
wLaog n. (Yellaw Sea).
Sis Centhsl Provikceh.
Bhazt-BB. — Tai-jTien, Pin-yang, Fuen-chow (Fupn-ho).
Ho-nan.— Kai-foag lOOO, Quei-te n., Hoai-King (Hoanf^-ho).
Mgan-llwL— Ngan-king, Tai-pino, Cliee-chow (Yang-tse).
Kiane-Bl.— Nan-chang (Kan), Kin-te-ching 1000 (Po).
Boo-pe. — Wa-cliang, Han-kow (Yang-tae), Siang-yang (Han).
Hoo-nan.— Chang-shu, Heng-chow, Yong-chow n. (Heng).
Sis "Westers Provisoes.
Quang-BL— Qiiei-ling (Quei), Sin-ohow (Choo), Cliin-ngan (Kgo-
yii).
Ton-nan.— Ynn-nan (Tien-clii), Li-kimig (Tang-tse), Lin-ngan,
Yaen-kiaug (Tonquin), Young-chang (Ms-kong),
Qntd-diow. — Quei-yang n., Se-nau (Oo), Chin-yuen, Piiig-voo
(ITuen).
Sa-oliUBii.— Ching-too, Sino-choo (Min), Poo-kiang (Kiu-lingl,
Kfta-au. — Lan-chow (Hoong-lio), Koong-eliiiiig IWei-lio).
Bhen-BG. — Si-ngan (Wei-ho), Han-choug (Han).
SeacriptiTsirDtei.— MARmMEPnoviHCEarCiA ton, also called Quang-.
ekow. at Ibe head of the Bocot Tigris, nr estoary of Uia Canton BJver, is
OBt of the tive cities opea to foTsigaera, and the priadjial eiitrepOt uf
caiDiiiurce in tlie empire : lla eipoits unoant to lour njiUion-i sterliiiu
annually, and ita imports to two andft half milliona. Its jiriipcipal fX-
L porta are te^ ailk, ineciouD tnetala, cassia, aiigar. Slid iwrcelaii
imported i> opinm, from HindnttMi — \.\\B sale i
thougti iUte*)' li Ixiltiy ixirnlltltd. lu 1S3S t^ CUIuoh GovErmunat
lu.il.
408 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
forcibly obliged the English at Canton to deliver up 20,283 chests of
opium, which having been destroyed, and compensation refus^, war was
declared by England. In 1841 the Chinese were totally defeat^ at Can-
ton, and the city was seized by the British, but ransomed by tiie payment
of 6,000,000 dollars. In 1847, in consequence of fresh insults on the part
of the Chinese Government, the Bogue forts were captured by the British,
and a new convention agreed to : subsequent grievances led to the capture
of the city by the British and French troops in December 1857, when
Yeh, the governor, was made a prisoner of war, and conveyed to Calcutta.
Victoria, on Hong-Kong Island, on the E. side of the Bocca Tigris, oppo-
site Macao, and 80 m. S.E. of Canton, became a British possession by
virtue of a treaty with the Chinese in 1 841 : it has numerous storehouses
and European dwellings, and steam communication with England. Macao
has belonged to the Portuguese since 1586. It is well fortified ; but the
harbour does not admit lai^e ships, and there is no communication with
the interior of the country : here, for a time, resided CamoenSjthe Portu-
guese poet, and here he is said to have composed the Lusiad. nlen-chow,
a large and populous city, capital of the Island Hainan, has extensive
trade with Macao, Assam, Siam, and Singapur. Foo-chow, a very popu-
lous city, and one of the five opened to European commerce by the treaty
of Nanking. It is distinguished for its commerce and the industry of its
inhabitants : large quantities of cotton goods and blue cloth are here
manufactured, and 500 ovens are constantly employed in the production
of porcelain ware. The black-tea district is only 70 miles distant, and
there are extensive lead-mines in the vicinity. In 1868, Foo-chow ex-
ported tea to the amoimt of £4,000,000 sterling, while its imports
amounted to £1,700,000, one-half of which consisted of opium from India.
Amoy is one of the five cities open to foreigners, and has great trade,
especially with Formosa and the maritime provinces of China : manufac-
tures of porcelain, gi*ass- cloths, paper, and candy- sugar, which, together
with congou tea, form the principal articles of export. Amoy was the
great military depot of the province when taken by the English in 1841.
Chang-chow, a very large and populous city, 36 m. S.W. of Amoy ; its
seaport is the great centre of the silk manufacture of the province.
Hang-ohow, at the southern terminus of the imperial canal, is the famous
Kinsai of Marco Polo, and the capital, in his time, of Southern China ; it
has long been noted for its silk manufactures, particularly for its flowered
taffetas and different kinds of satin. Ning-po, one of the five cities open
to European trade, and regarded by the Chinese as one of the most beau-
tiful cities in the Celestial Empire, is six m. in circumference, is enclosed
by walls 20 ft. high, and is a place of great trade — the exports of tea alona
bein^ valued at £1,500,00. Nanking ( " Court of the South "), capital of
provmce Kiang-su, and at one time of the entire empire, is now greatly
declined, though still one of the greatest seats of manufacture in China ;
its nankeen cloths, satins, silks, and crape, are reckoned superior to those
made anywhere else, and it is the centre of a very extensive commerce ;
it is the residence of a viceroy, the seat of a great military depot, and the
principal seat of literature in the empire : here was signed tne treaty of
peace between England and China, Aug. 29, 1842, by which European
merchants and a British consul were allowed to reside at the ports of
Canton, Amoy, Foo-chow, Ning-po, and Shanghae. Shanghae, the far-
thest north of the five ports above mentioned, and the chief commer^Jtl
port of the empire, carries on a direct trade with Central Asia, has a larg«
coasting trade, with flourishing manufactures of flower^ silks, iron- ware,
glass, paper, &c. The annual exports ai-e tea, to the amouut of 74,000,000
J CHINESE EMPIltE.
Othar eiporta ara camphor, drugs, c
fanports coneiat mBinly of opinni frc , ., ,
Dually. It was taken by the Britisli in 1812, when 171 pieces of
>, woollens aiirt wornteas il.OCy.OI
- -IB best porcelain. T
lued at £7,219,000 i
lint of military
iptured. Boo-cliOO, a very
near Tai-lioo lake in the line otUiB Imperial Canal, and in the richeatand
most populoua district of the country; it is celebrated for the splendour
of iU buildings and the excellence of ita raanuTactnres, including Gilk
goods, said to be superior in variety and richneas to those of any other
city in China : its trade is very extensive, and tlie signs of its prosperity
are everywhere visible. Tsi-nan is venerated as the residence of a foimer
dynasty of Chinese sovereigns. PeMng ("Northern CapiliU"), the me-
tropolis of China since the thirteenth century, when Kunlai Khan made
it his residence instead of Nanking, the former capital, is situated nn a
sandy plain 100 miles from the sea and SO miles S. of the Great WalL
It is said to contain 1,648,010 souls, and is therefore by far the most
popolona city in Asia, though less than half the sixe of London. It
oOQBiats of two distinct cities, one of which ia inhabited by Chinese,
and is the seat of commeice ; BiUd the other by Tartars, divided into
three Bsparate enclcaures,— the tlrst of which contains the garrison—
the seoODd, the residences of the principal dignitaries of the empire-~aad
the third, the palaces of the emperor and empress. Peking has a lai^
printii^ and bookselling trade, with mann&ctures of ^lass, idols, and
,. ._ _.■..._. i._. ... _ j_,._, .---^5 chieilydepend for their subsistence on
jonrt. The description of the city given
1271, is in many respects applicable at
_.iB present day. In 1B60 Peking was invested by the allied French and
Englbh, since which time ambsssoilors from boUi nations have resided
ILare. Tien-tain, the port of Pekine, is noted for the treaty of
I . .■^.^, ,t,^^,_v „___ =_,„-^ snnmberof Fi
by Marco 1
Polo, who vi
m the Chinese and British.
J French n
1. N.E
„. . . _i- '^ "■* residence of
tha Hantchoo sovereigns before they conquered Qiina.
Cbstbal pHoviNOffi.— Tai-yuen, a large and populous city, the ooca-
rionalresidBncaofthesoveroignsof the last reigning dynaaty, has nianu-
factnres of fine porcelain, felt carpets, and iron-ware. Eai-nng is not«d
as the principal seat of the Jews in China. Here, it is said, no fewer than
1,000,000 of them reside, speaking the Hebrew language and practising
their ancient religious rites. San-ohang, a very populous city, famous
for its porcelain, has a great trade in silks, furs, and idols. ElD-te-cbinjri
with a million inhabitants, contains the largest porcelain manufactory in
the world: five hundred furnaces are constantly at work, but no foreigner
has ever been admitted within the walla, lest the secrets of the process
should be ravealed. 'Wo-ohajig, in one of the most fertile diatritta of the
empire, ia one of the largest ofthe inland towns, and carries on on exten-
West
by the Quei-Biang, ifl saia ^ ,_..
on the least mountainous part of the table-land, ia a considerable plao .
>nd carries on an active trade with the Birman empire. Ewei-yaap, a
comparatively amali l^iwn, with mines of gold, silver, vermilion, and iron
'd the vicinity. COliiig'toO, a popnloos city, adorned with fine edifices,
ind the seat of an exlenaive trade, was at one time an Imperial residence,
bat woi rained by the Tailara in 1S4B. Inil-Ghaw curiea on a brisk
SO
410 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
trade with the tribes inhabiting the table-land to the N. and W. of it.
Si-nean, a large and ^pulous city, which is often compared with Peking
itself; it was at one time the meto>poli8 of the einpire, is strongly forti-
fied, carries on a considerable trade, has manufactures of militsury and
agricultural implements, and is the principal military depot for the nor-
thern provinces.
iBlandB. — Hainan, at the mouth of the G. of Tonqnin ; Macao, Lan*
tao, and Hong-Kong, in the Bocca Tigris, or estuaiy of the Canton
river ; Formosa, Amoy, and Hae-tan, E. of province Fo-kien ; Chusan
Archipelago, N. E. of province Che-kiang ; Tsung-ming, in the estu-
ary of the Yang-tse.
Hainan, with an area of 14,000 sq. m., and a population of about
1,000,000, is remarkably fertile along the coasts, while in the interior the
mountains rise beyond the limit of perennial snow. It produces sandal-
wood, ebony, rosewood, sugar, wax, pearls, and coral. Macao belongs
to Portugal (p. 408). Hong-Eon^, though small, rocky, and barren, is a
valuable possession of Great Britain, on account of its political and defen-
sive position. Formosa is a laige island E. of Central China : area, 15,000
sq. m. ; population, 2,000,000. It is traversed in the direction of its
greatest length by a chain of volcanic mountains, some of which attain
the height of 10,000 feet. Surface generally fertile, producing rice,
camphor, tobacco, millet, fruits, dye-woods, jute, and spices. Coal-
fields have recently been (Uscovered. The Chnsan Islands, nearly oppo-
site Ningpo, are of great value to China, as facilitating commerce with
Japan.
Seas, GnlfiB, and Straits. — See under *' Asia," p. 348.
Lakes. — Tai-hoo or Great Lake, in Kiangrsu, drained by the Woo-
sung ; Kao-you, Po-yang, and Toon-ting, in the lower basin of the
Yang-tse ; Hong-tse and Kao-yung in Eiang-su.
Climate. — The climate is eulogised as one of the finest in the
world ; but it is much colder in winter and warmer in summer than
corresponding latitudes in "Western Europe. Situated on the K
coast of Asia, the climate rather resembles that of corresponding
latitudes of the American continent than any portion of Europe. In
the southern provinces the winters are intensely dry and cold, though
snow rarely falls at Canton. March and April bring fogs and a mild
temperature ; much rain falls in May ; and from July to September
there is intense heat, with hurricanes, typhoons, and thunderstorms.
Mean annual temperature at Peking 64^8, summer 81°, winter 56°. 7.
Minerals. — The precious metals occur in small quantities : there
are rich mines of iron, lead, copper, zinc, and quicksilver ; and
perhaps the only metal which the countiy is known not to possess is
platina. Among other mineral substances may be mentioned salt,
nitre, alum, and gypsum. Coal exists in vast abundance, especially
in the basin of the Yang-tse, which is one vast coal-field ; and, more
important than all, inexhaustible beds of kaolin or porcelain earth
of the finest quality. The early possession of this substance, and the
great skill of the inhabitants in working it, has given the name of
China to the beautiful ware which so long monopolised the markets
of Europe. Nephrite, and various species of precious stones, espe-
cially agates, are also found.
r
THE CHINESE EMPIKE. 411
Botany.— The vegetation of the aoutharn provinces reaemtiles that
, of Hindustan and FurtlieT India, and belongs to Scliouw's seventh
" Phyto-geographio region ;" while Northern China, together with
the eastern part of Hangolia and Jajian, comprisea the sixth region
of that naturalist. The latter occupies a middle position between
" le TS^tation of Europe and that of North America, vfith aconaidsr-
)le affiniC; to the Indian flora.
The most cliarBctsiiatic Bad valuable botanical orodQct is the tea-plant,
which, until recently, was almost peculiar to China, it is cultivated
"ianton northwatii to Nanidng, and eitends westwanl over the greater
if the baain of the Yang-tse ; but it is found in its wild state as far
Peking, and as far S. as Bangkok in Siam. The soil on which It
growv is compared of disintegrated granite and fomiginous sandstone.
Ttie black teas are mostly prepared in Fo-kien, and the green in Qan-
hway, but lioth are derived from the same gpeciea of plant. — (See under
"Eiports.") Among the cultivated graius lice is the staple product:
and among the trees and plants most common in the fields and gardens
are the sugar-cane, cotton, hemp, tobacco, rhubarb, inrl^o, varaiah-tree,
camphor-tree, tallow-tree, and cinnamon. Olives, oranges, pine-apples,
tc, are abundant, and the mulberry ia extensively reared for the silk-
worm, on insect which is probably indigenous to China. Among forest-
trees the bamboo is the most highly piised, for building and other
domestic pnrpases.
Zoology. — Most of the wild animals have long ago been extirpated,
but the elephant, tiger, wild cat, rhinoceros, and tapir still occar in
the sontli-westem prorinces. Among birds and fishes are foand many
beantifnl and peculiar forms, while a few harmless reptiles still exist.
The most noiiaua insect is the locust, which frequently commita
great devastation. The domestic animala ate few in number, but
comprise the horse, ox, sheen, and Bwice, while the dog is uniformly
of one variety^of a pale-jellow colour, and ia form resembling out
spaniel
EttanoETaphr. — The people belong to the Mongolian race, and
are closely allied, both in appearance and language, to the Turanian
family (p- 61). At a very early period the natives appear to have
advanced to a couaiderable degree of civilisation, and to the practice
of the arts of domestic life, especially those of printing, the inven-
tion of the mariner's compass, and the mannfacture of silk and por-
oelain ; but here they have paused, their government and institu-
tions arresting the further progress of improvement.
Lanpiage. — The Cliinese language forms the principal member of the
great monosyllable family of tongues. This family is peculiar to the
Mongol race, ia couKned to the S.E. angle of Asia, and eomprisea about
fifty-three piincipal dialects, eighteen of which are spoken In China —
■very province having a dialect pecnliar to itself— and the great majority
of the ramaiuder being rude and unwritten. The Chinese language, when
written, is not phonetic, like the Indo-European and Semitic tongues,
bat ideographic. Each written character reprsaents a thought, an idea,
And not a sound. There is therefore no alphabet, properly so called, but
*very different word that can be articulated haa a distinct character to
nprvsent it. The great national lexicon, published in the seventeenth
412 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
century by order of the Emperor Kanpf-he, contains 30,000 distinct cliaT-
acters, all of whicli, however, are derived from 214 fundamental forms,
which constitute the foundation of their meaning, and the basis of arrange-
ment in the lexicon. Most of the words contained in this great woik'
have now become obsolete, and Morrison's Chinese Dictionary contains
only 12,674 words. The same character or sign retains the same meaning
all over China, but in every separate province the pronunciation given to
it varies. Thus, a Bible printed in Chinese can be read and understood
by every educated Chinaman from Peking to Canton, provided only he has
the volume before his eyes ; but the inhabitant of one province cannot
understand the inhabitsmt of any other when reading audibly in his pre-
sence. A still more extraordinary characteristic of the language is, that
each written character represents a number of widely-different significa-
tions, which are expressed by as many different tones of voice on the part
of the speaker. This peculiarity renders it very difficult for Europeans
to acquire a competent knowledge of the language.
Retigion. — Three distinct systems of religious belief prevail in China.
1. Fo, or Bvddhitmy is the religion of the great mass of the people in
China Proper, Mongolia, Mantchooria, and Tibet, the last-named country
being its headquarters, and the seat of its most sacred lamas. 2. The
Taou belief, or the system of the rationalists, is the next in importance
as respects the number of its votaries. 3. Tu, or the doctrine of Con-
fucius, which is adopted by the court and upper classes. China is
believed to have been colonised about b. c. 2500. Its first religious belief,
so far as known, was a system of devil-worship. Confucius, or Eun^-
fut-ze, the first great Chinese reformfer, flourished about B.C. 600. His
system does not differ essentially from that of Laot-ze, who was nearly
ms contemporary. Buddhism was not introduced till A.D. 60. "All
the four religions are now established in China, and are regarded by the
Chinese as equally true, but also as equally false, and the result is the
utter extinction of all moral obligation. Their cruelty, lust, lying,
thieving, and knavery can be exceeded by no stetement which human
language can embody." — ('Helicons of the World,* by W. Osbum.
London : Seeley, Jackson, & Halhday.) Mohammedans are also nume-
rous, especially in the province Shen-se, and Roman Catholics and Jews
form a very small proportion of the population. Protestant missionaries
have been settled in some of the maritime towns for the last fifty years.
Dr Morrison was the first to occupy this wide field, and Dr Milne soon fol-
lowed, both having been sent out by the London Missionary Society. Since
then the number has gradually increased, and nearly all the Protestant
missionary societies of Britain, Grermany, and America have now their
representetives in China, the total number of missionaries being at present
from eighty to a hundred. Besides several single books of the New Testa-
ment, there are now three separate translations of the entire Scriptures,
the first of which was executed in 1822, under the patronage of the British
and Foreign Bible Society, and the last in 1854, when not fewer than
1,000,000 copies of the New Testament were sent out by the London
Missionary Society, and circulated gratuitously far and wide.
Education ana Literatvre, — The Chinese Government liberally en-
courages elementary knowledge, making that the only channel to office,
rank, and honour. Accordingly, the taste for letters is almost universally
prevalent, and schools abound in every town and village ; but little usefiu
information is communicated beyond the familiar arts of reading and
writing. At Peking is a grand national university, supported by the stete^
but nothing is taught save the time-honoured principles of the ancient
sages. In respecl
'HE CHIKESE EMPIRE. 413
nnniber, importance, and anthaQtlcity of its
iiKcary monumenn, \,amii. undoubtedly holds a high rank amang Asiatia
coontiiBS. Its classic works, named King, date from a yery remote
epoch, and its annaljt are the most complete and continuous that eiist in
any Innguage, save the Hebrew — ascending aa far back as to B. c. 2304,
Literaiy history, criticism, Beographjr, and bicgraphy, are the snbJBcta of
a crowd of works, remarkable for their order and regularity. But every
branch of science is >tBreatypod, and there are few civilised coontriea
where real science Is at a lower ebb. Tlieic knowledge of mathematica
and astronomy 1r vary limited, and they have made but little proeresa in
tlie Rne arts. Their ecnlptare is only remarkable tor its nice finian; their
architecture is deficient in ^jaudeui aiid elegance ; the only objects they
can paint well are those of manimate nature; while, in drawing, they are
whaliy ignorant of perspeotive. Yet they have been the authors of what
me justly oonsiderod in Europe aa three of the moat important inventions
of modeni times— the art of printing, the onmposition of gunpowder, and
the magnetio compass. Printing from wooden blocks was practised by
the Chinese as early as the middle of the tenth centmy of our era.
The invention of gunpowder, as compounded of Eolphnr, nitre, and wil-
iow-charcoal, is carried back to a very remote data ; but its particular
application to firearms seems to have been exclusively European. The
attractive power of the loadstone had been known to them from remote
antiquity ; but its property of communicating ^larity to iron is for the
first time explicitly noticed In a Chinese dictionary tinished a.d. 121,
To these may be added two very remarkable manulactures, of whicb the
Chinese were unquestionably the first inventors — those of sUk and
pomelaln, in the Utter of which they have never been surpassed.
OoTerameat, fto. — The form of government is in theory an
Bbsolute despotism, the emperor anitiug in his own person the attrl-
'butaa of supreme magistrate and sovereigD pontiff. The emperor is
of the Mantchoo dynasty, and the great offices of state are usoally
held bj MantchoDS. The governors of provinces are called vkeroyi,
and those of cities mandarine. The authority of the emperor, even
in the heart of China Proper, is held by a very insecure tenure.
The Meaon-tn tribes in the south-woat«m provinres have repeatedly
risen in rebellion ; and secret societies — the principal of whicli is
called the Triad, which has for its object the restoration of a nativo
dynasty — are rapidly extending A civil war of the moat formidable
description, and characterised by the most revolting barbarities, has
for many years been raging in all paits of the country. Tho Finances
of the empire are consequently in a very unsettled state, thongh, if
any ureiiit is to be attached to official statements, the Resenv*
amounts to about £SO,000,OOD annuaUy. The Military Fores
probably amounts to about 850,000 soldiers, including the troops
ttationed in the tributary provinces. The Navy consists of two
fleets of war-junks, one for the sea, and another for the rivers, each
amounting to 1000 vessels, and carrying about 188,000 marines.
Hitherto tbe army and navy have been in a state of extreme in-
efficiency, and utterly powerless when opposed to European forces ;
but now the Chinese no longer rely on their time-hononred weapons
and tactics, but are providing themselves with gnn-boats, rifles, and
rifled cannon, and are being trained by European officora.
414 POUTICAL OEOORAPUY.
Among the defences of the country mnst also be reckoned the Great
WaU, constracted in the third century before the Christian era, as a
barrier to the incursions of the Tartars. Commencing at a fort on the
Gulf of Pe-cbi-li, it extends westward along the northern frontier, oyer
hill and dale, for 1250 miles, with a height varying from 15 'feet on the
mountains to 30 feet on the plains. It is a rampart of earth, brood
enough at the top to admit of several horsemen passing each other, is
faced witii brick and stone, and strengthened at regular intervals by large
square towers, with gates for the convenience of travellers. But it is
now falling into decay, the gates are negligently guarded, and smugglers
pass openly through its crumbling breaches.
Manntleustnres and Commerce. — The manufactures are of the most
varied, and often of the most exquisite, description. Their porcelain,
silks, nankeens, embroidery, and lacquered ware, are unrivalled for
their excellence. They are also noted for their skill in engraving,
in the carving of ivory, tortoise-shell, mother-of-pearl, horn, and
other ornamental articles, in the manufacture of ink, paper, cal9inet-
work, and bell-casting, all being executed without the aid of
machinery. The Exports consist mainly of tea, of which 130,000,000
lb. were sent to Britain alone in 1873, besides which they sent us
silk to the value of £4,800,000. Other exports are nankeen, porce-
lain, lacquered ware, and articles of ivory. The total value of
the exports, in 1873, amounted to £25,000,000, of which about
£12,500,000 worth was sent to Great Britain. In the same year
the total imports were valued at £25,000,000, seven-eighths of which
were from Great Britain and her colonies. The chief articles were
opium to the value of about £11,000,000, and edible birds* nests
(so highly prized in Chinese cookery), both of which come from India ;
cotton yam, cotton cloth, linens, woollens, beer, iron, steel, and
glass, from Great Britain ; cattle and raw silk from Turkestan ;
furs, sheep, and woollen goods from Russia, &c. The trade with
Russia is wholly conducted at Eiakhta, on the Mongolian frontier,
and with other countries at the five seaports, Canton, Amoy, Foo-
choo, Ning-po, and Shanghae, opened by the treaty of Nanting in
1842 ; while by subsequent treaties British subjects may trade at
Neu-Chwang, Swatow, Han-kow, Chin-kiang, Kew-kiang, Teng-
chow, Tien-tsin, "Wen-chow, and Woo-hoo ; as also six other "land-
ing-places " on the Yang-tse.
Russia is the only country that has managed to maintain habitual
relations with the court of Peking. She has ancient treaties under which
a certain number of Russians are allowed to live in the capital, and to
hold intercourse with the authorities there ; but the position has tdways
been an ignominious one, they have never been allowed to hold inter-
course with any of the ministers of high rank, and they have never
exercised any real influence. Of late, however, great changes have taken
place. Russi^ who has no unfettered maritime outlet in Europe or
Western Asia, has found the means, down the river Amoor, of getting an
outlet into the China Sea and the Pacific. Recently large concessions
have been made to Russia in the unfettered navigation of the Amoor, and
in the cession of a large tract of territory on the southern side of that
river. The internal commerce is enormous ; that of the eastern provinces
is conducted chiefly by the Grand or Imperial Canal, which extends from
Hang-chow to the £u-ho, being a distance of 700 m., with a width of
THE CHINESE EJIPIHE, 415
200 !t. Other canala and rivers cany on tie communication to Canton,
thns nnltini that dty with Peking. There are numerous other <»uials
connecting the navigahle rivers, and [irobablj the tonnage belonging to
the ChinsBB is little short of the combined tonnage of all other nations.
There are, as vet, no milwaye in China, nor any available conimuaication
between it and BriBsh India, which, in its Binnan provinces, is only, in
Bome placea, 250 m. distant from die western frontier of Chma Proper.
Becenlly, however, various schemes have been advocated for opening up
railway commnnieation between India and WeKt«m China. Chir Indian
(kiTemment propose one route f^m Calcutta, by Dacca, Silhit, and
Bhamo, to Tali-foQ in province Yun-nan. The advocat«« of this route
maintain that it would be the means of iatroducisg the opium of India,
oa a large scale, into Western China, so as to check the yearly increasing
production of the dmg there, aa also induce Chinese "cooUes" to resort
I
to Kiang-tung in the Laos states, and thea to Kiang-hiing on the river
Me-kong, about 1240 m. from its mouth, and within }0 m. of the Chinese
frontier city of Esmok in province Yun-nan, This province, together
with that of Ss-chnen, has a p^utation of about 40,000,000, or one-third
more thui that of the United lOngdom.
MONGOLIA
(IscLUDiao MANicHooniA ass Corea).
Bonndaries. — N., Siberia, from which it is separated in part
by the Amoor and itfl tributary the Argun, and in part by the
Sayanak and Altaian Mountaius ; W., South-western Siberia and
Kaahgarisi or Eastern Turkestan ; S., Tibet and China Proper ;
E., Sea of Japan and part of Siberia. Lat, 30"— 53° 28' N. j
Ion. 80°— 136* E,
Urga, thn cap. of Mongolia, near its northern frontier, is in the same
latitude as ?ari.4, Stuttgart, Vienna, £katerinoBlav, and the 14. shores of
the Caspian and Lake Superior.
Ana and FopnlaUon. — Including Mantchooria and Corea, but
omitting Eastern Tarkestan, the area ia ninghly estimated at
1,831,800 sq. m., or five-eightha the area of Europe. The population
ii very nncertain, but it does not probably eicced 14,137,000, or
half that of Great Britain.
Bnr&M. — This vast dependencT ot China, separated fiom Tibet by
tha Kueo-Lun Hountaiua, from Kashgaria or Eaatem Turkestan by
the Tbian-Shnn range, and from Siberia by the Altaian, Sayansk,
and Yabtonoi Mountains, comprises the immen.'se table-land of Central
Asia — the most extensive plateau on the globe — and is occupied in
its centre and west by tha huge, almost rainless, and sandy desert of
Gobi or Shamo, 1200 m. long, from 500 to 700 m. wide, and 3500 ft-
in elevation. The north of Mongolia is ricbly wooded ; consider-
able tracts in Mantchooria and Western Mongolia are highly fertile.
416 POLITICAL QEOGRAPHr.
producing com of all kinds, rice, cotton, and fruits, which, with
cattle and various mineral and manufactured products, form the prin-
cipal exports. The remainder is peopled by pastoral tribes, whose
camps, like moving cities, are constantly passing from one place to
another.
Divisions. — Mongolia is subdivided into the following geographic
cal sections, which, in a loose sense, may be regarded as provinces : —
CoREA. — King-ki-tao (Kiang-ho), Ping-hai (E. coast).
Mantohoooria. — Kirin-Ula (Sungari), Saghalien-ITla or Aignn
(Amoor), Tsi-tsi-har, Mergen (Nonni).
Mongolia Proper. — Urga or Kurin 7 n. (Orkhon), Mai-mai-tchin
(Selenga), Uliassuti n. (Djabekan), Kobdo n. (L. Ike Aral).
DzuNOARiA.— lU or Guldja 80 (Hi), Tarbagati (180 m. N. of Hi),
Barkol (L. Barkol).
Descriptive Notes. — Ein^-ki-tao, the residence of the King of Corea,
who is tnbutary both to Chma and Japan. Eirin-Ula, cap. of S. Mant-
chooria, is beautifully situated on the Sungari, a large affluent of the
Amoor. Saghalien, a populous city in the N. of Mantchooria, on the
left bank of the Amoor, and near the Russian frontier, carries on a great
trade in furs. Urga or Eurin, an important town in Northern Mongolia,
near the border of Siberia, and on the great caravan route from Pekmg to
Kiakhta : it is the seat of the deified Lama of the Mongols. Hal-mAi-
tchin, a very flourishing town on the Mongolian frontier, opposite Kiakhta
in Siberia. All the Russian exports to Peking pass througn Mai-mai-tchin
and Urga. lli, a large town in the extreme W. of the Chinese Empire,
cap. of Dzungaria, and an entrepdt of the trade of Central Asia.
Islands, Seas, Gulfs, and Straits. — See under *' Asia '' (p. 348).
Rivers and LaJces. — The rivers will be found enumerated after
"Tibet" (p. 421). The principal lakes are Kesael-Baahi and ZaisaUt
near the source of the Irtish ; Ike Aral, N. of Kessel-Bashi, receives
the rivers Djabakan and Kobdo ; Ubsay N.E. of Ike Aral, and at the
foot of the Altai Mountains ; Lopnor, S. of the Thian Shan Moun-
tains.
Climate. — In so wide a region the climate must be highly varied,
but few data exist to speak of it with precision. It is, however,
much colder in winter and warmer in summer than France and other
countries in corresponding latitudes of Western Europe. Scarcely
any rain falls in the great desert, and the few oases that occur afford
but a scanty vegetation. The climate of Mantchooria presents the
extremes of heat and cold, and considerably resembles that of Can-
ada. The rivers are frozen over as early as the 20th November, and
are not navigable till the middle of March. In Mongolia Proper,
and especially in the great desert, the winter winds blow furiously,
while the temperatui-e, as early as October and November, ranges
from 24° below zero Fah. to 40 .
Natural Products. — Coal prevails extensively in all parts of Mant-
chooria, Corea, and the province Leao-Tong. The coal is of excellent
quality, and the seams are of great thickness. Gold also is found in
tne S. of Corea, where the auriferous district extends along the E.
coast for a space of 40 m. long by 10 broad. The extensive tract of
THE CHINESE EMPIRE.
417
I
country between the Great Desert and the Siberian rrontier is mauii-
tainous, well wooded, fertila, but unpultivalsd. The loreats consiat
of pines, fir, birch, ash, elm, and white poplar ; aa nilaa red currants,
wild peaches, and varieua shmbs. Mactchooria, is one of the chief
localities whence the Chinese obtain the wonder-working yin-jen^ —
a apeoies of iyy, the root of which is used as a stimulant — and here
rhubarb is extensively cultivated. The cork-tree and the aapen are
indigenous on both banks of the Amoor. The desert is sandy and
woodless ; but, for a few weeks in spring, after the short rainy
season, it is covered ivtth a luxuriant herboae. Among n'ild animsls
may be mentioned the tiger, wolf, jackal, lynx, fox, antelope, argul,
yak ; with wild horses, camels, and asses in the desert ; the Bactriaii
OT two-humped camel, in the Tbtan Shan mouutaina ; and boars,
bears, wolvea, faares, foxea, aablea, sijuirrels, Ac , in the foreats of
northern Mongolia,
EUmoerapby. — This country has been for ages the domain of ths
Mongolian race— one of the great subdivisions of the humau family ;
to it belonged Attilo, Genghis Khan, Knblai Khan, Timur the Tar-
tar, and those other niighW warriors, whose rapid cDnqnasta are com-
pared by Gibbon to the primitive convulsions of nature, which have
^tated and altered the surface of the globe. They are allied to the
'^rks and Chinese, and are subdivided into numerons tribes, the
princinal of which are the Mongolians Proper, Kalmucks, Khalkas,
and Mantchooa. WbUe Mantchouria has become an integi'al part of
the Chinese empire, China itself has been governed by a dynasty of
Mantchoo princes since 1824.
All the iatwHi^ spoken in Mongolia belong to the Turanian or Fin-
no-Tartarian family (see under "Asia," art. 19, and at p. 315). The
chief of them are the Mantchoorian, Mongolian, and Corean. The ele-
mental principles of the first two are almost identical with the Tartar
and Finnish, In the simplicity of their structure and the total absence
of all inflections, properly eo called, they approaeh nearer than any other
class of langu^cs to the monosyllabic type. The Corean greatly resembles
the Japanese, but many Chinese wonJs enter into its composition, Corea
having received its lilaratnre and dvlliaation from China ; hut the alphahet
is phonetic, and not aymhollc, like the Cliioese. The /hIigloK o! Buddha
rvailfi in Montehooria and Mongolia; Buddhism and Mohammedanism
Basteni Tnrkestan (which does not now form a part of the Chinese
Empire); and Buddhism and Confucianism in Corea.
Indnatry and ComniBrcs. — The natives of Mongolia, who are atrong,
Btnrdy Tartars, live a noraadio life, pitching their tents when and
where they please, are eiempt from tases, and subsist principally on
their Hocks of sheep, and by selling the wool to the Chinese and
Ruseiana. Fermented mare's milk, called £'ou»ii»!, is their favourite
drink. In Mantchooria and Corea, cotton cloth and silk are manu-
factured to a considerable extent, while along the seaboard, mining
and fishing are pursued. Immense caravans, laden with tea, silk,
and grain from China, and with fura and fish from Siberia, are con-
stantly crossing through the country, Kiakhta being the great mart
of exchange.
418 POLITICAL GEOORAPHT.
TIBET.
I
Boundaries. — ^N., Mongolia and Eastern Turkestan, from
which it is separated by the Kuen-lun mountains ; W., Kash-
mir ; S., Nepal, Sikhim, and Bhotan, from which it is separated
by the Himalaya ; E., the Yung-ling mountains, separating it
from China Proper. Lat. 27° 40'— 36^ IC N. ; Ion. 78^—104* E.
Lhasa, the cap., on the central parallel, is in the same latitude
with Mogadore, Cairo, Bassorah, Multan, Shanghae, and New
Orleans.
Area and Fopulatlon. — ^Tne area is conjectured to be abcnt 675,700
sq. m., or more than five times the area of the British Isles. The
population is probably about 6,000,000, or nearly twice that of Scot-
hmd.
Sur&ce.— A lofty table-land, from 15,000 to 16,000 ft. in eleva-
tion, enclosed and traversed by stupendous mountain-chains, the
loftiest on the globe, and giving origin to nearly all the great rivers
of Southern Asia — as the Indus, Satlej, Brahmaputra, Irawadi,
Yang-tse, and Hoang-ho. Among these chains may be named the
Himalaya in the S., the Karakorum in the N.W., the Kuen-lun in
the N., the Yun-ling in the E., and the Chor-Katshi mountains,
running from the S. W. to the N. Some of the mountain-passes are
of great elevation, as the Bo^ola Pass (19,220 ft. above the level of
the sea), between the Satlej and Indus ; the Gugti-la Pass, E. of
Gartok, 19,500 ft. ; and the Mana Pass, between Tibet and 6m*whal,
18,570 ft
Dlyi8lon8.~The country is still very imperfectly known to Euro-
peans, but it is understood to comprise two divisions — Eastern and
Western Tibet. Baiti or Bultistan, and Ladakh, formerly belonging
to Tibet, are now regarded as parts of Kashmir : —
Eastern Tibet. —Lhasa 24 (Muran, affl, San-po), Jiga-gungar 100,
Shigatze 100 (San-po).
Western Tibet. — Teshu-Lombu 20 (San-po), Tashigong, Gortope
(Indus), Chaprung (Satlej), Bathang (Kin-sha), Tsiamdo (Me-kong).
Descriptive Notes.— Lhasa, the cap. of Tibet, and the sacred cap. of
all Buddnistic countries, is a fortified commercial town, containing a
Chinese garrison, with numerous towers, bazaars, and temples ; it is the
residence of the Grand TaU Lama, the pontifical sovereign of Tibet, who
lives in a vast square temple, which, with its precincts, covers many
acres, and has contiguous to it four celebrated monasteries, said to be in-
habited by 4000 recluses. These monasteries are greatly resorted to by the
Chinese and Mongols, as schools of the Buddhist religion and philosophy :
the interior of the temple is filled with idols, treasure, and works of art ;
and there is perhaps no spot on the globe where so much gold is accumu-
lated for superstitious purposes. Teshu-Lombu, the western cap., con-
tains the palace of the second priest or Bogdo Lama, and the resiaence of
a Chinese functionary, whose duty is to watch the proceedings of the
! CHINESE EMPIRE. 419
prieBts, who conrtitnte the great bulk ot the population. Gortope, or
eordokh, is little more tlian a laige camp, situated in a plaiu covurcJ
with flocks of sheep, goats, and yaks, Wtioima iu eunimer a great trading
sheep, goats, and ja
in Tibet and N. Ind
Lakm.— Eoko-Di
8ng-Ho; Tengri-nc
Khavan Rhadi lfi,ui
■ourc« of the Satlej.
I
I
ond Tohnrin-nor, near the aourf^ea of the Ho-
and Palti, in the basin of the Brahmaputra ;
00 ft. above the sea, and Mansecvwar, at the
Searly all the lakea aie brackish.
OUmate. — The climate is cxceEaiTel; dry, and its effect on regcta-
tion resemblca that of the dry heat of the Sahara. The trcea wither;
their leaves may be ground to powder between the fingera; planka
and heams break, and the inhabitants cover the timbers of their
houaea with wet towels, in order to preserve them from the destruc-
tive effects of oiceasive dryness. The timber never rota. The flesh
of sheep exposed to the open air beoomas dry, and may be gronnd
like bread, and tlius preserved for years. This fleah-bread is n very
common food in Tibet Goitre, syphilis, ophthalmia, hydraphohia,
and smallpox, are among the moat prevalent diseases.
The limit of perennial snow la higher on the Tibetan side ot the Hima-
laya than on the Indias ; the former varying in different places from
16,000 to 17,400 ft above the sea, while in the latter it descends to
16,300 ft. Barley comes to matnritv from 14,000 to 15,000 ft. above the
HB-level ; wheat eurceeds well as hLgh as 12,000 ft. ; birch to above
14,000 ft. ; and small bushes to 17,000 ft— being nearly 1300 ft higher
than the limit of peremiial snow miderthe equator.
*"""■»'" — Tibet is extremely rich in minerals, especially in gold,
which is found in lumps, veins, and in t)io sands of tiie rivers. Gold,
silver, mercury, native cinnabar, iron, and rock-salt, are obtained
from mines ; but the want of fuel ia an insuperable obatacla to their
raccesaful operation — coal being unknown, and there being little or
no wood in the country. The chief gold-field of Tibet ia that of
ShokJalung (lat. 33° 2i', Ion, 81° 37'), at the height of 16,330 feet
above the sea, where the yield of gold is very large. The gold-
fields generally run close to the northern water-parting of thp Brah-
maputra. Lapis-laznli, tunjuoises, borax, and nitre, are found in
great abundance.
Botany. — The vegetation is extremely scanty. Forest-ti
nre, hnt the cedar is funnd on the
ains, and several orchnrd-
udiug stapes, fij,'8, i
gisnates, peaches, apples, apricots, and nuts. Many of the g
comnioa in Europe are found j hut very little wheat, and less iice, is
cnltivaled. Buckwheat is raised succeHsfully, but grey or black barley
China tea stewed with butter, barley ci
Soology- — Among the animals may be mentioned the yak or grant-
id the musk deer (both of which appear to be aborigiliQl
intrj), wild-oi, buffalo, goat, antelope, kiang or wild-aas,
^B ing ox ai
^H to the cui
420 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
wild- cat, tif^er, leopard, lynx, gyaki or royal dog, bear, badger, and
the argal with horns of 100 lb. weight All oar domestic animals
are known in Tibet ; bat the one most used as a beast of harden is
the bhoral, a large sheep covered with long hair. Fish are abundant
in the rivers, but are prohibited from being eaten by the Bnddhist
religion.
Ethnography. — The Tibetans belong to the Mongolian race, and,
like the Mongols Proper, were at first divided into many independent
tribes, who followed a nomadic life. The great bulk of the popula-
tion continue to follow their flocks from place to place, but a con-
siderable fraction of them reside in towns, some of which are very
large. The practice of polyandry is common — one woman becoming
the wife of all the brothers in a family.
Their Language, sometimes called Tibetan, and sometimes Bhotanta —
because spoken also in Bhotan — belongs to the monosyllabic family,
though not a few polysyllables exist in it. It bears a great resemblance
to the Chinese — some of its roots, and nearly all the derivatives, being
clearly traceable to that language. The alpluibet, however, is phonetic,
reads from left to right, and is without doubt borrowed from the Sanscrit.
Buddhism was introduced into Tibet about ▲.D. 867, became the domi-
nant religion in 905, and this country has for ages been the home and
headquarters of the Buddhist faith. Under the name of Lamaism it still
exists here in its primitive purity ; while the Grand Lama or Supreme
Pontiff is regarded as an incarnation of Buddha. He is a temi.>oral as
well as a spiritual sovereign ; the country abounds with temples, and
80,000 lamas or priests are maintained by the state. The numerous rites
and ceremonies are said to bear a most remarkable resemblance to those
of the Romish Church.
Commerce, &c. — Tibet was conquered by Zenghis-Khan in A.D.
1206, and ^dually subdued by and annexed to China from 1255 to
1720. It IS now ruled by viceroys from Peking, in conjunction with
the ecclesiastical heads of the country. Manufactures of woollens,
sacking, and other woven fabrics, are pretty general, and much cloth
is sent from Lhasa into China, The traffic through Tibet is exten-
sive, and is chiefly carried on with China on the one hand, and
Nepal, Bhotan, and Eastern Turkestan on the other. The Indian
Gk)vernment, however, have recently made vigorous efforts to open
up a market for British and Indian goods. The jealousy of the
Chinese Government is at present the chief barrier to commerce.
The principal Exports are gold, silver, salt, borax, shawl wool; while
the Imports chiefly consist of tea, brocades, and porcelain from China ;
horses and camels from Eastern Turkestan ; dried fruits, shawls,
gamboge, and timber from Kashmir ; and Indian piece-goods, sugar,
tobacco, indigo, rice, spices, &c.,from Bengal, Bhotan, and Nepu.
Table of Rivers and Towns.— The following Table exhibits the
River-System of China and the east part of Mongolia. All the basins
incline to the Pacific Ocean : —
Co. of Qii»ii«-tnnt!,lJ«ii-eiiiiw.
"-- •^--- ..Violorli. M»OM, Cab-
Tcn. Oiow - king,
IMan-JcniB,
I.
Bin
Cbse-ohDv, Satv-
TURKESTAN.
TcKKEBiAF, or the countrv of tie Turks, coniprises a -very
wide eitent (if territory in Central Asia, reaching from the
Caepian on the weat, to the frontiers of China Proper on the
cast, and from the Hindn-Eosh and Euen-Iun mounlAins on
the eotttli to the 47ih degree of latitude on the north. It thus
DOm^iehends three main divisionB which Bie politically' dietinct
— TU., Eastern Tnrkeatan or Kashgaria, now independent of
Oiina ; second, WeBlem Turkestan, formerly known as Inde-
pendent Tartaiy, but now in a great meaBure under the in-
nnenoe of Rnaaia ; and third, Enssian Turkestan, now fomiing
a part of Siheria. The entire area may be loonely estimated at
1,000,000 eq. ra., and the population at 13,500,00(1. Situated
almost in the centre of the Asiatic continent, it consists of— 1.
The Bouihem portion of the ■vast northern plain, a large part of
which lies below the level of the ocean, and known, tliereJbre, as
tie basin of continental Btreams. This plain contains the Caspian
Sea (83 ft. below the lerel of the Black Sea), the Sea of Aral,
Lioke fialkaeh, and many other lakes and marshes. The rust of
422 POLITICAL QEOGRAPIIY.
this plain is, for the most part, a great sandy desert, only broken
by the fertile basins of the Amoo and Sir Dana ; 2. The other
portion of Turkestan forms the western part of the mighty
plateau of High Asia, including the plateau of Pamir, support-
ing the great mountain-knot known as the Bolor Tach, separat-
ing Eastern from Western Turkestan, and forming tne nucleus
from which ramify many of the loftiest mountain-ranges on the
surface of the globe. The inhabitants, who are known as Tar-
tars or Turks, are of the Turanian stock, and closely allied to
the Mongol race, one of the main subdivisions of the human
family. They are known in antiquity as Scythians. During the
decline of the Boman Empire these tribes began to seek more
fertile re^ons, and the first who reached the frontier of Italy
were the Huns under Attila, " the scourge of God." In later
times, Zeughis Khan, Kublai Khan, and Tamerlane, reigned
over Turkestan, and overran all the surrounding coun&ies,
including China, Persia, and India.
EASTERN TURKESTAN OR KASHGARIA
(Formerly Chinese Tartary).
Boundaries. — N., Dzungaria and Russian Turkestan, from
which it is separated by the Thian Shan mountains ; W., the
Bolor Tagh, separating it from Western Turkestan ; S., the
Kuen-lun mountains, which separate it from Tibet ; and E.,
China Proper. Lat. 36" 10'— 43^ 34' N. Ion. ; 72° 30'— 94° K
Kash^ar, the cap., on the central parallel, is in the same latitude
as Toledo in Spain, Erzrum, Bokhslra, Peking, San Francisco,
and Baltimore.
Area and FopulatloiL — The area is supposed to amount to 270,000
sq. ra., or three times the size of Great Britain, and the population
to about 3,000,000, or equal to that of Scotland.
SurfiEUie. — In shape it resembles a huge bay of the ocean, with its
mouth turned to the east, and shut in on its other three sides by
gigantic mountain-ranges. Between these the surface forms a plateau
of from 4000 to 6000 ft. in elevation, while a broad desert, thirty
days' journey in extent, occupies its mouth, and separates it from
China, of which it was till recently a possession. The most arid part
of this desert lies E. of 88° Ion. It is generally known as the Han-
hai, or "Dry Sea," and forms the western part of the great desert of
Gobi. A crescent-shaped region, lying to the W. of the Han-hai, is
watered by the Yarkand and its tributaries, and is highly fertile.
The Thian Shan, on the north, attain in Tengri-Tagh an elevation
of 21,000 ft.; the Kai-akorum mountains, in Dapsang Peak, an
elevation of 28,278 ft. Eleven high passes have to be crossed in
travelling from India to Turkestan by the usual trade route, and of
tliese only ti
- ■ hPas.
TU UK EST AN.
9 lower tLnn the s
I
[mmit of Mont Blanc, Tha
Ksjihmir, haa the atupendous
eUvatiDii of IS, 436 ft.
PoUticBl DlTlBlimB.— For tt century before 186* this country vaa
K depandoncy of China, bat in that year a siieeessful inanrreetioii
was mado by tlia Mussulman inhabitants under Yakoob Beg, ajid
thia portion of Turkestnn is now entirely independent.
Towns.— Kaahgar 13 (Kashgar, a#. Yarkand), Yorkand 120
(Yarkand), lltcbi or Khotau 40 (Khoton), Khainil (Desert), Kutohfi,
Akau SO {affls. Yarkand), TurEut 150 m. W. EhamU.
DeseriptiYe ITotea.— Kwligar, the political cap. of tlie country, was a
city of great importance before the Christian era. Sitnsted in the auglo
formed by the Thiau Shan and Bolor Tagh, it is tlia centre of all the
commeraial routes which renderthis countryso important. Ic has manu-
factores in cotton goods, sad articles In gold and jasper. Yarkand, the
commercial cap. of E. Turkestan, is a large and populous city, contain-
ing 120,000 inhabiUnts, 60 colleges, 160 mosques, and 12 caravauBeriea,
wSicb are crowded with nierchanla from every conntry in Asia. Ehotan,
B large city celebrated for its carpets, leather, aiik fabrics, paper, and
artless ia jasper. Ehamil, in a fertile district at the foot of the Tliiau
Shan mountains, is the centre of a lai^B Irads, Aksn, fonnerly the
lailitary headqaarMrs of the Chinese viceroy, is a large city, mndi re-
sorted to by caravans from all parts of Asia.
Riven andLalcea. — Tha otJy great river of tha country is the Yar-
kand or Tariiu, which rises in the plateau of Pamir, and alter a course
of ISOO m. discharges ita waters into Lake Lop-nor, in Ihe western
side of the desert of Gobi. It haa numeroits afSuenta (see p. 423).
Oltmate. — The climate of thia inland region is whnt is termed ex-
eewttie, the cold in winter and the heat in summer being usually very
Kreat ; but data are wanting to describe it with accuracy. In the
depth of winter, at the source of the Yarkand river, at an elevation
of lb,656 ft,, the temperature at eight o'clock iu the morning (De-
cember 1889) was 18° lielow zero. Very little rain falls in any part
of Eastern Tarkestan, as the clouds laden with rain are almost en-
tirely deprived of their moisture in crossing the diHerent ranges of
the Himalaya, where, ia some places, the annual rain-fall amounts
to 300 inches.
Hfttnral Produoto. — The mineral wealth of the country is known
to embrace gold, found in the Tbian-Shsn tnonutsins, where also
Mllplmr, sal-ammoniac, asbestos, and saltpetre are obtained. Copper
itid iron are wrought in several places ; jasper, agatea, and other
gems are abundant ; and espocially jade-atone, which ia much piized
as an article of commerce. Biaiuouds are said to occur in the motin-
The louthem slopes of the Thian Shan are clothed with forests, but
wood ia ^most nnknown olsewheiB. The weatem part of the conntry ia
I iilghly culUvated, prodnclug wheat, barley, Indiau-ci — ' .-^j.-.
424 POUTICAL GEOGRAPHY.
being buried in winter on account of the frost. On the mountain-sides
roam large herds of shawl-goats, sheep, yaks, cows, camels, and horses.
Etlmograpby. — The inhabitants are a mongrel race, consisting of
Tartars, Persians, and an admixture of Chinese. They nearly all
profess the Mohammedan faith, but there are a few Christians and
Jews. The language is Turkish, and almost identical with that
spoken in Constaiitinople.
Commerce and Industry. — Hitherto the commerce of Eastern
Turkestan has been principally with China, from whi^h it imported
tea, silver, and porcelain : from Siberia it receives broad •cloth,
brocades, and bullion ; from Kashmir, shawls, whitp piece-goods,
and leather ; from Badakshan, slaves and gems ; and from Western
Turkestan, carpets. Our Indian Government are taking vigorous
steps to establish trade with the country, and Yakoob Beg, the pre-
sent ruler, has expressed his earnest desire to co-operate. As the
consumption of tea is enormous, we are likely to obtain here an
extensive market for our Assam tea and other Indian products.
Hitherto the tea has been brought down from the interior of China
to Shanghae and Canton, and there shipped to India. From Bom-
bay it went to Karachi, and from thence up the Indus into the
Pan jab, and by the Khyber Pass into Kabul, and from Kabul to
Kokand, thence S. £. to Kashgar, and from Kashgar it was dissemi-
nated through Central Asia. But by the new land-routes now pro-
posed our Assam tea can be conveyed through Leh in Kashmir,
through the Changchenmo valley to Iltchi (the cap. of Khotan),
to Kashgar and Yarkand. Thus, instead of making a circuit of 5000
m., the distance will not exceed 750 m. The manufactures of the
country are mostly confined to silk and fine woollen goods.
WESTERN TURKESTAN.
Boundaries. — ^N., Siberia ; W., the Caspian ; S., Persia,
Afghanistan, and the Pan jab ; E., Kashmir and Eastern
Turkestan or Kashgaria, from the latter of which it is sepa-
rated, by the Bolor Tagh moimtains.
Owing to the recent annexations to Russia and the tottering condition
of much of the remainder, the lat. and Ion. of Western Turkestan re-
mains for the present undefined ; but we may regard it as extending from
35° to 44° N., and from 66** to 74" E. Bokh&ra, near the centre, is on the
same parallel as Madrid, Naples, Constantinople, Kashgar, Peking, and
New York.
Area and Fopnlatlon. — Owing to the daily encroachments of
Russia, it is impossible to give the area or population of these feuda-
tory states ; but the former may be stated (in 1875) at 380,000 sq.
m., and the latter at 3,000,000.
Surface.— The surface consists for the most part of an immense
plain, which from all sides slopes towards the Caspian and Sea of
Aral, and forms a continuation of the great Sibeiian plain. A large
I
WESTERN TURKESTAN. 425
portion of this plain, includiug tha Caapinn, is couBideraWy bonpath
the level of the Black Sea, and protatly formed t!ie bed of tha
ocean in a remote age. The S.E. part of the couctiy conaiata of a.
part of the lofty plateau of Pamir, lfl,600 ft high. Here are nmnj
well-va,tered and highly-fertile valleys, hat in geoeral the aooatry
U Bitramely ettrile.
Political DlTlaloiiB. — Western Tnrbeatiin consists of a nomber of
aemi-independent states, or khanals, bb they are called, the princi*
pal of which arc tlie following; —
KAriBlSTAN.— Cbittral i (Enmah, ajl. Eabfll}, Ehawak (Punj-
EheerJ, Fav^ghan (Tagu),
Kosauz.— Kundflz S (Bimghec, affi. Atnoor), Badakahan (Badak-
BoKHAa*.— Bokh.^ralSO (KoWk), Kur5hoBlO(Kurahee), Carjooee
6, Tirmez (Amoo), Uratepoh 10 (Sagd).
•Khokakb -KhokandlOO, Marghilno, a., Usch (Syr Daria).
'Kbiva or RsARESH.— Eliiva IS, n., Urgenj Z, Kungrad 10
(Anioo), Marv 3 (MuhrghabJ.
Mejuaxa. — Meimana [q^. Amoo).
SmcriptiTB KotM.—CMUral, also called Eaahkaro, ia the cMef place
of commerce in Kallristan, or " Isud of the Kafirs or infldela," the name
g>en to this region by their Mohammedan neighboura, who hold them
the pvateat abhorrencs. The inhabitanta are a. remarkable race,
greatly resembling the Caucasiau in their features, language, and man-
ners ; and claim to be brothers of the Feringbi, or Eiiropeaus. They live
Id a mde and primitive atate, but exhibit ^reat skill in norklng metals,
and in other arts, and have for ^ea mamtainad their independence,
though their amall territory has been repeatedly overrun by the Moham-
medan nations who surround them. £haw^, a celebmted lort and
raonntain-pass, the moat easterly and the best known across the Hindu-
Knah. By It Tamerlane entered Hindustan, a.d. 1399. Knndiu, a
wretched place, consisting of about 600 mnd hovels. fiRdakshan or
Fyiabad, on an affluent of the Amoo, has acquired great celebrity for its
valuable mines of ruby and lapis-la^^lL It was once Uie cap. o( an in-
dependent sovereignty, and a placa of great importance; but in 1832
great part of it was destroyed by an earth({uake, and scarcely a vestige
of it now remains. The inhobitauta are diatinsuiehed for their hospi-
tality, and it is aaid that bread haa never been sold in the country. Bok-
luTB is u celebrated city, and the only leally populous one in the bliauat.
It baa been long fanions as a seat of Mohammedan learning, has 360
mosques and as many colleges and schoola, with 10,000 students. It is a
place of very extensive coronierca, and merchants from all parts of Asia
assemble here. Water ia acarce in anmmer, and of ao bad a quality that
it gives rise to the terrible disease occttsionerl by the gulnea-wunn, which
bnnows in the flesh of the human body, producing intense pain. Kho-
kaad (anc. Ferghana) has manufoctures of silk and cotton tisauca, and an
aetive trade in cattle. The khanatisthe country of the celebrated Sultan
Baber, the founder of the Mogul empire In India, d.D. 1&25. "
I of the cap. is UaigkUa^ the ancient cap., containmg some rc
buildinKB aud ramaina oT ^antiquity. Khiva, a miaerable-looklng^jila
, ._„ .,— J. , Ing place,
and extremely filthy, is the greatest alave-market in Turkp.
1870-7, Khotaud being callod
426 POLITICAL OEOQRAPUr.
Stan. Kerv, formerly one of the four imperial cities of Ehorassan, and the
cap. of the Persian sultans of the Seljukian dynasty, is now in mins.
lalces. — See under *' Asia/' par. 13.
Climate. — The climate is necessarily very diversified, since the
elevation ranges from that of the Caspian, which is 83 ft below the
level of the Black Sea, to 18,000 ft. above it. That of Bokhara, in
the south, is, however, described as dry, pleasant, and salubrious,
but very cold in winter, when the Amoo or Oxus is covered with so
deep a coating of ice that travellers can easily pass over it. The
sky is usually very clear, and of a bright azure colour. Snow lies
about three months in the year, and violent tornadoes frequently
follow the summer heats, which in June rise to upwards of 100"
during the day, and fall to 60" at night ** In general, the seasons
in this country may be described thus : spring, sudden and fleeting ;
summer^ dry and burning ; autumn, rainy, gloomy, and short ;
winter, long, dry, and constantly cold."
Minerals. — Gold in the sands of the Oxus ; coal, copper, iron, in
Khokand, where also rich silver mines occur in the mountains ; salt-
deposits numerous ; sal-ammoniac in its native state ; and mines of
rubies and lapis-lazulL
Botany and Agriculture. — The indigenous plants appear to be
few in number ; timber is exceedingly scarce ; fruits are excellent
and abundant, especially in Bokhara, where the vine is successfully
cultivated. The principal cultivated plants are rice, wheat, barley,
millet, maize, tobacco, hemp, rhubarb. Tillage is almost confined
to the banks of the rivers. Mulberry-trees are extensively reared in
the S., and silk, together with cotton, is produced in great abun-
dance along the banks of the Oxus.
Zoology. — Among the mammiferous animals in the steppes, the
Rodentia, especially the mouse, are the most numerous ; the bufialo,
wild horse, saiga antelope, yak, rass or Pamir sheep, leopards,
wolves, foxes, hares, goats, in Bokhara, Khiva, and Eunduz ; bats,
tortoises, and lizards in the deserts ; scorpions are common, and
locusts sometimes infest the country ; eagles and falcons are met
with, and plovers, wild-pigeon, and waterfowl abound ; but there
are no singing-birds, and game of all kinds is scarce. Fish is not
abundant ; those taken in the Oxus are similar to those of other
Asiatic rivers, with the exception of an enormous species of dog-fish,
called Itikha, which has no scales, and which sometimes attains the
weight of 600 lb. The species found in the Sea of Aral are the same
as tliose in the Caspian, whose fauna is peculiar, but mixed with
Black Sea species. (See pp. 294, 314.)
Btlmograpby. — Turkestan means ** land of the Turks," this coun-
try having been the headquarters of the Turkish race from time im-
memorial. The Turks are Mongols, their language Turanian (pp.
86, 814, 422). The northern and south-western parts are inhabited
by nomadic tribes (Kirghiz, Turcomans, Uzbecks). Among the
settled tribes the most numerous are the Tadjiks, who are supposed
WESTERN TURKESTAN. 42T
to be of Persian or Araliinn origin, and sneek pure Persian ; theic
religioD is Moliummedaniam, bera divided, ob elsewhere, into two
sects, Sunnites anil Sliias ; but the Shiaa are compelled to hide their
belief, ns they are nowbere tolerated, and are treated as KaSis or
iiDbelievera, and sold as slaves. Soofeeism or free-thinking also
jirevails among them. The Kafirs, in Kafiriatan, are Caucaaianfl,
and use a, Medo-Persian tang^ue,
Oonunerce. — The commerce of the country, especially of Khira
and Bolthani, is considerable^ their territories being favourably
situated in regard to Bussia, Persia, Afghanistan, India, and the
Chinese empire — and is conducted by means of caraTans. BokhSra
alone employs npwards of 8000 camels in the trade ivitb Kabnl,
Herat, and Kashmir. The manufactures are few and unimportant,
consisting chieSy of silk and cotton staSs, carpets and shagreen,
made in the towns, with sabres, knires, and other weapons. The
principal Exports are cotton-cloth, vool, fruits, hides, sheep-skins,
dyes, and silk. Imports comprise muslins, brocades, suoar, shawls,
white cloth, opium, and cutlery, from the south ; British and other
European manufactured goods through Kussia ; porcelain, tea, musk,
rhubarb, from China ; and wool from Tibet. Trade is principally
carried on by means of barter. The slave trallic is extensive, the
Chittra! boys and girls being the most pri?ed, owing to their supe-
rior beauty, docility, and fidelity ; while the Kafirs are most unttact-
able and reTsngeful.
Qormunant. — The various governments ore despotic, but the
khans are obliged to rule in accordance with the priuciples of the
Koran ; they are also inSuenced by the priests and by public
opinion. The military force fluctuates in the vatiaus atat^ ; in
Bokhara it does not exceed 4000 men of all arms, one-third of whom
only are fblly armed. Very recently Eussia has made serious en-
cnuchmentfi on Western Turkestan, especially on the klianats of
Khiva, Bokh&ra, and Khokand, which have now in a large measure
loet their independence.
Blrer System of Oentra] Asia, or Basin of Continental Streams. —
A portion of this immense basin— viz,, the minor basins of the Ural,
Volga, Kuma, Terek, Kuba, and Kur, all lyiuffW. of the Caspian,
have been treated of under " European Kossia ' (p. 328). The fol-
lowing table embraces the N. and centre of Persia, the N. andW. of
Afghanistan, and the whole of Turkestan. Many of the rivers flow
into lakes which bavB no outlet, while others ore lost in the sands of
the desert
K,Co. ofrereU.Baai
. Lihijin,
., aotnis
Ann DariB (L. tTrgmj, Kui
Aral), Khiva, n., Kl
UnhrghBba'»t).l'Bn
428
POLITICAL QE0GBAPB7.
Ehnlam, { .
Syr Daria (L.
Aral),
Hi (L. Balkash)..
Eobdo (L. Ike
Aral).
Lake Borkol
Yarkand (Lop
Chayar, I
Khotan,
Tovmt.
Kholtun or Tash-Kor-
ghan.
Fort Ardlikt Otrar,
TORKKSTAK, n. , IHin'
kat, Tashkend, Kho-
jend, Kokand, Mar-
ghilan, n., Usch.
IlI or GULDJA.
Kobdo.
KJiamil, n.
Tarkand.
Ghayar, Konlchd.
Iltchi or Khotan.
Riven.
Towni,
Aksti, I AksTL
Kaahgar, { . . . . Kashoar.
Helmnnd (L.Du8hak.
HamunX
Tumak, I Kelat i QhUjit,
Urghendab, . Kandahar.
Haroot, Subzawur.
Ghuznl (L. Abis- GhuznL
tada),
Kurao, Xurgliab.
Bocknabad Shibaz.
(lost),
Zendarood (lostXIspahan.
Kara-su Host), . . Hamadan, n.
Kehveh (lost), ..Teheran, zl
SIBERIA AND CENTRAL ASIA.
Boundaries.— N., the Arctic Ocean ; W^ European Russia,
from which it is separated by the Ural Mountains, Ural River,
and the Caspian ; S., Western Turkestan, the Thian Shan Moun-
tains, and Mongolia ; E., the Pacific Ocean.
Owing to Russia's recent aggressions in Western Turkestan, the south-
ern frontier is now pushed forward beyond Samarcand to lat. 89°, while
Cape Severo, in the extreme north, is in lat. 78** 12*. The Ion. extends
from Novo Patrovsk, on the CJaspian (Ion. 60° 16' E.), to East Cape, in
Behring Strait (ion, 169° W.) This portion of the empire extends,
therefore, over 89° of lat. and nearly 141° of Ion. While its southern
boundary is on the same parallel as Madrid, Nap|les, Constantinople,
Bokhara, Peking, and New York, its northern limit is in the same lat. as
the Parry Islands and the southern point of Spitzbeigen.
Area. — The area of Siberia and Central Asia is now estimated at
6,444,940 sq. m., and the population (in 1878) at 6,841,000, or one
inhabitant to each sq. m. One half larger than the Chinese em-
pire, it is nearly twice as large as the whole continent of Europe ;
while the population does not much exceed that of Ireland.
SnrflEUse. — The entire west and north consists of a vast lowland
plain, gently sloping towards the Arctic Ocean and the Sea of Aral,
and embracing immense desert iteppes, full of salt marshes, and des-
titute of timber. The principal steppes are the Kiighiz steppe, ex-
tending from the Caspian to Lake Balkash ; the steppe of Ishim,
along the head-waters of the Tobol and Irtish ; and the steppe of
Barabinska, farther to the N.E., between the Irtish and Obi.
Throughout the whole of this immense region, the rivers in winter
How underneath a thick coating of ice. Owing to their slight fall
they readily overflow their banks, and inundate extensive portions
of their basins. The Arctic Ocean being almost constantly ice-
bound, the rivers that And their way to it are almost useless us
SUIEHIA ASD CESTEAL ASIA. 429
' ehinneU of cominerca. East of I.alte BalJiiiali, the counhy becomas
inorB mountainoua and varied, and the sonthern frontier ja consider-
ably within the limits of the p1at«aa of High Asia. The Thian Shaa
raouotains form the boundary between Bossia and Eastern Torke-
stan, and it ia understood that there is no intention of extending the
empire farther south in this direction. Still farther east, the bonn-
darj is formed by the Altaian and Saynnsk monntaina, and the
river Amoor, the basin of which is highly fertile, aa is also the basin
of the Syr Dorio, in Tnrkeston. ]n other parta, though the soil ia
fertile in many places, the extreme severitj of the climate will ever
prereut suocosafol cultivation. (Sea nndor "Asia," p. 847.)
FoUttcalDtTtslonB.— The Russian government has divided Siberia
into two main sectiona — viz., Western and Eastern Siberia, tha
respective capitals of which are Tobolsk and Irkntsk. These are
DOW subdivided into five govemmenta and six territories. The gov-
ernment of Turkestan, recently seized from the khana of Western
Turkestan, embraces the two provinces of Syr Daria [eap. Turkestan)
and Semirichenak (cap. VernoS). This new government embraces
143,000 aq. m. along the hanks of the Syr Dario, with a pap. of about
11,000,000.
Westers Sibekia.
Tobolsk.— Tobolsk 18, Omsk 19 (Irtish), Tiumen 12 n. (Tnra),
Snrgan (Tobol), Petropaulovaki B (Irfiim).
" TOMBK.— Tomsk 21 (Tom), Barnaul 11, Eijisk i (Obi).
■■ EiBosiz Teb. — Novo Alexandrovsk (Caspian).
'- Semifolatinsk Tsr. — Semipolatinsk 7 (Irtish).
TFRKKBTilf.— Turkestan 10, n., Otmr, Toehkend SO, n., Khff-
jend GO n. (Sjr Daria), Samarcand 25 (Kohik), Fort Arslsk (Sea of
Aral), VemoS, n. (lU),
Eabtbrk Siberia.
YttNlSEiaK.— Erasnoiarsk 10, Yeniseisk 8 (Yenisei).
iBKirrsK. — Irkatak 28 (Angara), Eirensk 2 (Lena).
Yakutsk Ter. — Yakutsk a, Olokminak (Lena), Yeluisk (Velni}.
TRABa-EAiKii, Teb. "Chita (Ingoda), Nertchinsk S (Shilka),
Udinsk 3, Setenginsk 3, Kiakhta S, n. (Solenga).
Amoobbkata Tsr.— Blagoveschensk (Atnoor).
Pbihorsk Tbe. — Hikolaievek n. (Amoor), Okhotsk [Sea of
Okhotsk), Petropaulovaki 1 (K coast of Eamtchatka).
DMCTiptlve Hates.— Tobolsk, the cap, of Western Siberia and the chief
far, given in eiehange for tha manufactured goods of Europe and China),
contuna a monument to Yermak, the founder of Russian influence in
Bibeiia. Omsk maintains a considerable trade with the wandering
Klrgblj !n tnra, brandy, and tobacco. Ttmnen, an entrepot for the com-
merce between Russia and Central Asia, contains npwarda of 100 factories
(or the mannfactore of Russia Inather and woollen fabrics. T<iliuk Bud
430 POUnCAL GEOGRAPHT.
Barnaul derive their importance from their proximity to the mining dis-
trict of the Altai. Semipolatinak is the seat of a considerable trade with
the adjacent part of the Chinese empire. Otrar is noted as theplaee
where the celebrated Tamerlane died (a.d. 1405) when on his vnj to con-
ouer China. Tashkend, by far the most populous town in Siberia, forms
the key of the valley of the Syr Dana. Knoijend, a large town actively
engag^ in the manufacture of cotton fabrics, carries on an extensive
trmle with Bokhara. Samarcand, at one time one of the most famous of
Asiatic cities, and the capital of one of the largest empires that ever
existed— viz., that of Tamerlane, whose tomb is enclosed within its walls.
It is the Holy City of the Mohammedans of Central Asia. Fort Aralsk :
here the Russians maintain a small fleet of war vessels, and a number of
flat-bottomed boats for ascending the almost unnavigable Syr Daria.
Krasnoiarsk contains a flne collection of Siberian antiquities ; is import-
ant as lying on the route from Tobolsk to Irkutsk. Innitsk, a consider-
able town on the Angara, and the most populous place in Eastern Siberia,
is the great emporium (next to Kiakhta) of the Kussian commerce with
China. It maintains telegraphic communication with St Petersburg, and
is the see of an archbishop whose authority extends over 120° of lon^-
tude ! Yakutsk, the main de^dt for the fur trade of Eastern Siberia,
carries on a traffic in ivory obtcuned from the walrus of the Arctic Ocean
and from the fossil remains of the mammoth and rhinoceros found em-
bedded in the frozen soil of the northern shores. Nertchinsk, a cele-
brated mining town in the Yablonoi Moimtains. Kiakhta, the grand
mart of exclumge between Russia and China, and the residence of numer-
ous merchants. Okhotsk, the principal station of the Russo- American fur
company. Petropaulovski, the headquarters of the Russian fleet of the
Pacific, was successfully bombarded by the Anglo-French fleet in 1854.
Gapes, Islands, Seas, Bays, Onlft, and Lakes. — See under "Asia."
Climate. — The climate of Eastern and Northern Siberia is intensely
cold during winter, which lasts nine months, but very warm during
the brief summer. The lower basin of the Lena is the coldest known
difference of 94° of temperature between summer and winter. Here
mercury remains frozen from two to three months in the year ; breath-
ing becomes difficult, and the reindeer hides himself in the depths of
the forest and stands motionless. The heat of the summer penetrates
the soil only to a depth of about 8 ft., beneath which it remains per-
manently frozen. Erman found, by sinking a well, that the frozen
stratum extended to the depth of 400 ft at Yakutsk, but in other
places it is much less. The rivers are covered for many months with
a thick coating of ice ; and the country being almost a dead level,
and the upper courses of the rivers melting earlier in summer than
the lower, much of their lower basins becomes inundated. The
climate of Russian Turkestan, though exceedingly variable, is not
nearly so extreme. The Syr Daria is covered witn ice for only five
months in the year— viz., from November to March; while in May,
June, and also in September, it is flooded by the melting of the
snows on the Thian Shan mountains. At Fort Perovski, in the pro-
vince of Syr Daria, the summer is dry and sultry, rain falling only
BltlEIilA ASD CEKTRiL ASIA. 431
;e during the whole anratner, and the terapemture reach-
ing 40° Iteaumur or 122° Fah. ; in winter at the enmit place bhow lies
on the ground three months in the yem.
Wiuntla; — Siberia yields to no coantry in the 'world for tho richei
and irariety of its mineral prodnctioiia. Coal ftlone is deficient,
though recently it has bee d discovered in the moQutains near Khojend,
in Roesisn Tarliestan.
There are three eitensivo mining districts— viz., 1. Those of the Urals,
on the E. declivity ot which they occupy an area of about 40 m, wide,
and yield great qiiantitiea of iron, gold, and copper, with some silver aad
platumm. 2. Tbe mining distriet of Bamanl in Tomak, yielding aarifer-
oBS silver and copper, but less lead. The mines here lie mostly in the
Altai Monntaina, which aia alao rich in cornelian, onyi, topaz, amethyst,
diamonds, and other gems. 3. The district of Nerti^binsk, rich in ailver,
Ejld, oopper, lead, quidtsUver, tin, dnc, and iron. Here are also cele-
isted mines of emerald and topaz, found generally in connection with
Hn. ThB total prodace of gold from Sihena in 186Swas estimated at
£3,000,000 stg. The other principal minerals are salt, fonnd in natural
erystala on the bonks of some lakes ; jaaper and porphyry of great beauty,
in the Altu Moontaius ; lapia-lazuli, near Lake Baikal : diamonds, found
occasionally on the eastern slope of the Urals ; and malacMte, containing
fopper and mica, ia the form of larga plates, eitensively used as a sub-
stitate for window-glass.
Botany. — Enormous forests of ooniferoua and other trees extend
from the Altai Mountain.i to the Polar Circle ; a few bushea, willows,
and Baline plants form the principal vegetation of the steppes in the
W. ; while in the dreary region of the lunclras, N. of the Arctic
Circle, are fonnd only the dwarf willow, mosses, and lichens. (See
Btider "Asia," p. 347.)
Hie principal cultivated pUnta are rye, barley, and oats, which rarely
ripen tieyoud the lat. of SO'. Wheat is grown in some places in the
basins of the Irtish, Yenisei, and Syr Daria, and buckwheat and millet
in VBiiona localities. Flax, hemp, tobacco, turnips, pease, beans, pota-
toes, cabbage, onions, radishes, mnstard, and even cucumbera and pump-
kins, are raised in considerable quantities. The cotton plant is also sul-
fated in Russian Turkestan as far north as Vemci, hut fruit-trees do
not succeed anywhere except in the lower basin of the Amoor.
ZonlOEy. — Siberia ia also very rich in ita wild animals, especially
the far-bearing species, aa the aable, ermine, marmot, marten, beaver,
•^nirrel, and lax, the skina of which form an important article of
oiinmeice. Other wild animals are the white and black bear, the
reindeer, ellc, wolf, and glutton, the striped tiger, wild boar, saijak
or Scvttmn antelope, and wild horae, in Kussian Turkestan ; here
also the comtnon eagle, gcr-fslcon, and other birds of prey are found,
while miliious of gallinaceous and aquatic birds frequent the wooda
and laheH. Among reptiles may be mentioned scorpiniis, tarantulEB,
and phalanp. During the summer, swarms of locusts, gadflies,
gnats, and thrips infest the region of the Syr Daria. The rivera
swarm with fish, while the Caspian abounds in sturgeons, salmon,
sterlets, and seals.
AboQt ooe-hatf of the papulation of Siberia con-
432 POLITICAL . GEOGRAPHY.
aists of exiles and convicts from European Eussia, who, to tihe nam*
ber of about 10,000 annually, are sent hither either to work in the
mines or to colonise the country. The remainder are Turanians.
The Samoiedes in North Siberia, between the Ural Mountfuns and the
Lena, are in all probability the earliest inhabitants of Northern Asia.
From an extensive list of Samoiede words, collected by Pallas and EJap-
roth, it appears that their language more closely approximates to toe
Finnish than to any other known tongue. They are an extremely ignor-
ant and degraded race ; their religion is Shamanism, one of the grossest
forms of idolatry, and they depend for their precarious subsistence on
hunting and fishing. The Yukagirs, Koriaks, Tchukchees, and Kamt-
chadales occupy the remainder of Northern Siberia, from the Lena to the
Pacific. They lead a wandering life, and subsist by fishing and the chase,
though many of them possess large flocks of reindeer. In winter they
live in huts below the level of the ground, with only a single aperture for
the admission of light and air ; wmle their summer residences consist of
rude huts formed of the trunks of trees, with a covering of bark. Bud-
dhism and Paganism are the prevalent forms of belief, though a few pro-
fess a corrupted form of Christianity. South of these, and occupying the
immense region of South-eastern Siberia, between the Upper Yenisei and
the Sea of Okhotsk, are found the Tunguzes, who are closely allied in
origin to the Mantchoos. Their language differs considerably from that
of the Mantchoos, having a considerable admixture of Mongolian terms,
and being extremely rude and barbarous. The Tunguzes are fire-worship-
pers, but a few of them have been baptised. South-western Siberia, be-
tween the Yenisei and the Ural Mountains, is mainly occupied by the
Ostiaks and Wogulians, two nations of Turkish origin, professing the
Mohammedan religion, speaking dialects closely allied to each other, and
belonging to the Furnish family of tongues. The Buriats, a Mongolian
tribe, dwell chiefly on both sides of Lake Baikal, and are the most numer-
ous of all the Siberian tribes. They are said to number about 150,000
individuals; their dialect is closely allied to the Calmuck, and is the
same as that spoken by the Khalka tribes in Eastern Mongolia. A tribe
of Calmuck Tartars peoples the Altai Mountains, immediately to the W.
of the Buriats. The province Turkestan, and the steppes around the Sea
of Aral, are peopled by hordes of wandering Kirghiz, a Tartar race, who
speak the Turkish language and profess the Mohammedan religion.
HairafActnres and Commerce The manufactures of Siberia are
nnimportant, except iu the large towns in the valley of the Syr
Dana, where the silk- worm is reared and silk and cotton cloths are
woven. The mining districts of the Ural, Altai, and Yablonoi give
emplojrment to a large fraction of the community. Tobolsk has
tanneries and some mannfactures of soap, and at Irkutsk is an im*
perial factory of woollens for the clothing of the troops. The com-
merce is of considerable extent, consisting chiefly of the exportation
of the produce of the mines, together with furs, skins, cattle, fish,
mammoth bones, morse teeth, and caviare, in exchange for which
tea, silk, porcelain, paper, and rhubarb are imported from China.
China is Kussia*s best customer, while Siberia is the most important
link in the through traffic. Immense caravans constantly travel
from Moscow to China, the ordinary route being the Volga and
Kama to Perm, thence by the Jura and Irtish to Omak^ than
TraaBcancasla-— Sac tinder "Hiisaia," p. 322,
RlTBT-ByBtem of Siberia — The following table, in contimaHtion
thst given nndiT Wejitem Turkestan, embraces the rivara and to\i
of Northeru Asia, from the Amoor to tiie Obj : —
Bea or Oh. OUioMk.
HoMk,
M, Cn, or Kaui t- PBtrDMnlovskL
Laiu, Jiganik, T*HnTSK,
SelFnga, [ SplengiiiBl!,
Oikhi
iKTOitll, Bijislt.
:aBOLEK, Omsk, Baml-
Tobr>l. ! . .Totulsk. KJirgan.
TaKhii]"Nljnl Tsgr]sk (fn Pennl
litilm. I PclroiiBulovskl.
Tom, lOHsiL
JAPAN.
Bonndaxles.— N., Strait of La Perouae, si
the island Saahalien ; W^ the Sea of Japan and Strait of Corea,
sepajating it from Mantctooria and Corea ; S, and E., the North
Pacific Ocean.
Inclnding the Majica-sima islands, or Lesaer Loa-Choo gronp, in tliB
ertrems Boulli. and tlie Kurile arcliipelago in the nortli, tbe latitude ei-
tonda from 24'' W to 51° 30' N., and from Ion. 129° to 165° Sff E. The
empire inclndes the toi^ islands NipboD, Einslu, Sikakf, and Yezo, to-
mtlier with tbe great and lesser Loo-Choo groups, the whole of the
Knrile ialanris (owed by Buaaia to Japan, in 1875, in eichanga for the
sontbem half of Saghalian), and a vast numbin- of Bnudler islands. Tba
vhole of the pemii«ula of Corea, however, is now subject to Cliiim.
Tedo, the cap. , near the central parallel, is in the same lat. as Gibraltar,
HaltH, C^roB, Teheran, Kashmir, Tsi-naD, with Monterey and Caps
Hatttnas m the United States of America.
Area tmd Population. — Tbe area, embnu'.iiig the fore-mentioned
aeetiona, is believed to amonnt to 157,000 sq. m., or thrice the size
□f England without Wales ; while the population is estimated at
E3,UOO,000, or nearly tbe aame as tliat of the British lales,
Snrlhcs. — The empire consists of an elongated archipelago subdivided
into a series of minor Rroupi, Japan Proper being in the centre. This
_. ..sversed tlmiugliout its greatest length hy a chain of
of considerable etevatian, some of whicb attam the snow
limit, and many are adJTe volcanoes, aa Fnal-Yamn, In the island Niphon,
14,177 ft. high. ITio remainder of the eurfoce, though bold, is not
raggftdi Bad the mnjority of the hilla are ooltiTated to "" "■
4
434 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
mendons earthquakes are comnion, but Europeans are very imperfectly
acquainted with the interior.
Political DlTiaionB. — The Japanese empire is now divided into 5
general governments, which are subdivided into 75 districts, each
governed by a Prefect. The principal islands with their largest
towns are as follows : —
NiPHON. — ^Yedo or Jeddo 780, Orogawa 20, Yokohama 62, Eana-
sowa 60, Simoda 80, Osaka 530, Miako or Kioto 567 n., Kobi (S.
coast), Nee-e-gata 32 (N. coast).
SiKOK. — Tosa, Awa (E. coast).
Kiusiu. — Nagasaki 80, Saga(W. coast), Kagosima 200 (S. coast).
Yezo. — Hakodati 20, Matsmai 50, Endermo (S. coast).
Loo-Choo Sheudi, Napa-Eiang (Great Loo-Choo 1.)
Descriptive Notes. — ^Yedo, Jeddo, or Tokio, cap. of the empire, and the
residence of the emperor or Mikado, is said to have an area equal to London,
though containing only one-fifth its population. One of uie streets is 10
m. long, and as closely crowded with houses as between Hyde Park Comer
and Mile End. The citadel occupies an inclosure of 8 m. in circumfer-
ence. The houses are mostly bmlt of wood, and the city suffers fre-
quently from destructive fires. Orogawa, the port of Yedo, and a place
of considerable importance, from the complete command it has over the
trade of the capital, of which it forms the kev. Here Commodore Peny
had his first interview with the Japanese officials in 1853, and here his
squadron lay at anchor during his negotiations for a commercial treaty
with the United States. Hiako, a lar^e and populous city, and the
seat of various manufacturing and educational esUiblishments, was, until
1868, the ecclesiastical cap. of l^e empire and the residence of the
Tycoon, to whom the secular emperor was nominally subject. It abounds
in temples, palaces, and exquisitely-laid-out gardens, and is regarded as
the paradise of Japan. Tokohama, the station of the British fleet. Osaki
is an active manufacturing town, and also a place of great commerce.
Tosa and Ava, populous cities on the east coast of Sikokf, have never
been visited by Europeans. Kagasaki, the principal seaport and com-
mercial emporium of Japan, on tiie W. coast of the island Kiusiu, has,
for the last two centuries, been the only place at which foreigners were
allowed to trade. Saga, a large and populous city, possesses consider-
able trade. Hatsnmai, a laige, fortineo, and commercial city, with a
commodious and well - sheltered harbour, contains numerous temples,
theatres, and various other edifices, which are usually painted white.
Hakodadi, one of the towns at which the ships of the United States,
England, France, and Russia are allowed to trade. Shendi, the cap.,
and Napa the principal port, of the Loo-Choo group, which forms a sort
of outnidst to Japan, thoi^h owning a qualified subordination to China.
The inhabitants are described as far advanced in civilisation, and as bear-
ing the closest resemblance to the Japanese in language, customs, laws,
dress, virtues, and vices.
Capes, iBlands, Seas, and Straits. ->See under <* Asia."
Climate— Much milder than the corresponding latitude on the
neighbouring continent, owing to the influence of the sorronnding
ocean ; but the W. side is considerably colder than the £., on ac-
count of its proximity to Asia. In the S. the thennometer xsQgei
, of Ben
JAPAN. 435
, between 29* and 104° Fah.; but in the N. the cold ia so intensa in
winter as to compel tho haif-ssTage Aiuoa to take refuge in caverns.
Bain ia very freqnent, ajid the country is often visited by typhoons
and fearful earthquakes, while yolcanic erapCiona of the moat furmid-
Hble character are by no means rare.
Oflolosy. — Little ia known of the geological formation of the conn-
' try, aave that it abounds with volcanoes, which form its most char-
nct«riBtic feature. One of theae, a huge cone, four times tbe bulk
n Hevis, is said to have been formed in the third century of
era. The imiptioa of another destroyed twenty Tillages about
ut^ years ago; while a third sank beneath the sea, bat continues
:mit boiliiic water. The volcanoes greatly aSect the tides : in
le parts of ^pan there is only one tide in Uie twenty-fonr hours,
'" "n other parts there are three.
Mliiarals are very numerous and abandant, comprising gold, silver,
lead, tin, copper, diamonds and other gems; amber, sulphur, nitre,
salt, lime, marble, and plastic clay, in various parts. Whole moun-
tains of porcelain earth are met with, and thermal and mineral
springs frequently occur. The precious metals are very abundant,
but iron is scarce. Coal ia very plentiful, and is largely exported to
China, where it supplies a large section of the inbabitaots with win-
ter fuel. The mode of mining ia very rude, and peiforraed by women
•nd children in a state of nudity. Some of the richest coal-mines
belong to fiussians.
BotBii7, — Japan embraces the principal pnrtion of Schonw's sixth
Phyto- geographic region, soinetiraes called the Japanctt Region,
Its flora is very varied, and appears to occupy a middle place be-
tween that of Europe and of Korth America. It has a considerable
affinity to the flora of India, and is more tropical than European. In
the south are found palms, bananas, bamboos, bignontaa, myrtles,
and cypressea; iu the north, oaks, jiines, firs, the maple and Iran-
wood tree ; while the varnish and camphor treea are said to bo in-
digenous. Some of the timber is highly prized for ahipbuilding.
The principal cultivated plants are tea, cotton, rice, sugar-mne,
tobacco, ginger, pepper, hemp, wheat, barley, buckwheat, aay, melons,
pumpkicH, cucumbers, and fruits of every kind. Rice yields two
haivesta annually, and constitutes, with fish, the chief food of the
people. The vegetable-wai tree, the silk and paper mnlherty, and
the cotton-tree, are held in high esteem. Radishes are sometimes
found, by a peculiar mode of cultivation, as large as the body of n
man ; while other plants are dwarfed to an almost incredibly small
sue. Agriculture, on which the Japanese bestow great care, and
which they thoroughly understand, forms the chief occnpation of the
people. In fact, nothing can ei^ceed tbeir agricultural mdustiy.
R»logy.— The Zoology of Japan ia still imperfectly known to
^Europeans ; but among the wild animals are monkeys, boars, boura,
Vfenaa, foxes, weaaela, deer, hares, rats, and mice. The fox is wor-
£ipped aa a divinity by the most intelligent men in the cauotry
436 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Birds are found in great variety, and include the falcon, pheasant,
teal, stork, pigeon, wild-goose, duck, quail, curlew, plover, snipe,
raven, pelican, crane, and neron. Reptiles, especially snakes, lizaia%
and tortoises, are numerous ; and the seas abound with fish, which
are taken in sreat quantities. Corals, pearls, and ambergris are also
obtained. The domestic animals are few ; elephants, camels, asses,
mules, and sheep, are unknown ; the horse is used only for the
saddle, buffaloes and oxen being the animals employed for draught
and burden ; but it is contrary to the Buddhist religion to use their
flesh as meat.
Ethnograpliy. — ^The Japanese are probably of the Mongolian race,
with some admixture of Malay blood ; but it remains very uncertain
from what country they migrated, as they have been located in their
present insular home from time immemorial. They do not resemble
the Chinese in physical structure, language, or ancient religion.
Dr Macgowan, who has paid great attention to the ethnology of Japan,
regards the people as a mixture of the Caucasian, Kamtcnatkan, and
several other races. They are small in stature, the average height of
the men being five feet four inches. The eyes are black, hair coarse,
complexion sallow, hands and feet very small. After marriage the
women blacken their teeth and pluck out their eyebrows. The Japanese,
Loo-Chooan, and Corean Lanauaget are very closely allied to each oth^ :
they are phonetic, polysyllabic, and, to some extent, inflexional, and
thus differ widely from the Chinese ; yet, on the whole, they have so
many affinities with the Turanian or Fumo-Tartarian family of languages,
that they must, at least provisionally, be classed under that stock. The
Japanese has several terms in common with the Mongolian and Finnish ;
very many Chinese words, greatly modified in pronunciation, have been
Introduced, partly by Chinese colonists, but more especially by "the in-
fluence of Chinese literature, on which all the learning of Japan is based.
The Japanese have a written literature, some science, and a taste for
music. Their ancient Religion was the Sinto or Sin-sin ^" doctrine of
spirits "), so called because consisting chiefly in the adoration of numer-
ous spirits supposed to preside over all things, whether in the visible or
invisible world. But in the sixth century Buddhism was introduced,
and now the great bulk of the inhabitants conform to it, while a few have
adopted the doctrines of Confucius.
Oovemineiit. — ^From time immemorial Japan had groaned nnder
a feudal despotism of the severest type. Besides two emperors (a
temporal and a spiritual) there were hundreds of nobles, named
Daimios, each of whom maintained a standing army, and had abso-
lute power within his own territory. But intercourse with foreigners
has entirely altered the political and social condition of the country.
There is now only one emperor, and all classes in the community
pay him willing homage. In 1868 the Daimios magnanimously
agreed to demit their vast authority, and to subject themselves and
their dependants to the Mikado. In 1872 the Revenue was esti-
mated at £10,375,000 ; the Expenditure to £9,707,000 ; and the
Public Debt at £23,000,000.
AFRICA. 437
ComineTce. fee. — Japan had, lilce China, kept itself aloof for ageg
from other nationa : aome trade was allowed with Chinese merchants,
who broosht broadcloth and other atuffs to Nagasalti, in return for
coal, sea-sluga, copper, and lacqnered wairea ; and the Dutch were
jwrmittfid to send two ahipa annually to the same port with wai,
oumphor, spicee, ivorj, lead, iron bars, qniclisilver, glagB wares, &.c,,
for whicb they received in return, copper, silk, pitch, and Japanese
monnfaetures.
In 18S4 a general convention uf peaoe and amity was signed between
Japan and the United States, by wtich the porta of Nagasaki, Simoda, and
Hakodadi were opened to the ships of the latter for trade and protection,
and consuls from the United States were allowed to reside in Japan, In
the following year BimUar privileges were accorded to England, France,
and Russia. Tlieao privileges were still further ejtended in 186a— Lord
Elgin, the British Ambaaaador, having entered Yedda, and obtained from
the emperor a libera! treaty of commerce, which secures the advantagea
of an unfettered commerce to all nations at the following porta— viz.,
Yedo, Yokobama, Hiogo, Oeacs, Nagasaki, Niigata, and Hakodati.
Foreigners, however, may now withont molestation travel through all
parts of the country. Altogetber, the change which bus taken place in
tbe condition of Japan and in the sentiments of ita people is wbolly
without a parallel in the history of nationa. Japanese of bigi rank,
and is great numbers, have been despatched by the government to study
the advanoed cit-iljsatioc of Europe and America. On returning home
tbeir recommendations have been given effect tn with a marvellous readi-
ness. Already about halt a million Japanese youths are being taught
the history, arta, and acience of the West, while a number of the sons of
the nobility are attending the schools and universities of this country,
Eailwaya, telegraphs, postal communication, minta, lightbonsea, Jto.,
have been introduced. In abort, Japan haa taken a ^-eat leap, anil
^rly cleared five centuries at a bound ; and it is impossible to foretell
what further progress she may make ere the present oentnry haa nm its
coniSB. It would aeem, however, that she la destined to become to
Xaatem Asia what the lilritish aiohipelogo (which she so much resembles
in relative position, size, population, and climate) ia to Western Europe,
The religion of Christ eeema now to be all that is wanting to enable bee
•- • " favourably the gigantic empire which lies in hei vicini^.
L AFRICA.
1, Bonndaiies. — N., the Mediterranean ; W., the Atlantic ;
8., the Southern Ocean j E., tJie Indian Ocean, Red Sea, and
iBthmus of Suez, which unites it to Asia.
Airic* eitenda from lat, 37° 2ft' N, (Baa-alKmn) to 84° 60' S. (Cape
AEQlbaal : and from Ion. 17° 33' W. (Cape Verd) to 61° 2? E. (Cape
r Ouardafui); and thua embraces 72° of lat. and 69° of Ion. Its exai't
^ centre, 1° le- N. of the equator, and 7° E. of the Bight of Biafra, is in
438 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
the same lat as Quito, the mouth of the Amazon, and the centre of the
islands Sumatra and Borneo, and in the same Ion. as Stockholm, Bradau,
Vienna, Cape Spartivento, Lake Tchad, and Cape l^wn. Its N. extrem-
ity is on the same })arallel as San Francisco, C»pe C*harles, Hie Azores,
Cape St Vincent, Athens, Lake Ummiah, Astrabad, and Yarkand ; and
its S., as Monte Video in Uruguay, and Adelaide in South Australia.
Africa is the only continent which has a large extent of land on either
side of the equator. Its great mass lies within the tropics, and conse-
quently it is the hottest of all the continents, and may rightly be desig-
nated the tropical continent. It is not merely its geographical position
that imparts to it this distinction ; for it is separate nom the two other
continents of the Old World by comparatively narrow inland seas, while
its plateaux and mountain-ranges are of very moderate elevation. It is,
in fact, a vast peninsula of Asia-Europe, as south America is of the nor-
thern continent.
2. Form and Dimensloiu. — In form it resembles a pear, with a
large indentation on the western side, and a corresponding projection
on the eastern. The extreme length from N. to S., which is nearly
equalled by the extreme breadth, falls little short of 5000 m. The
coast-line is estimated at 16,000 m., or 1. m of coast to every 710 m.
of surface ; while Europe has 1 in 225 m., America 1 in 490, and
Asia 1 in 550. This single fact goes far to explain the past history
of Africa : shutting herself up from the sea on all sides, she has ever
remained isolated &om the rest of the world, and little influenced by
those social or political revolutions that have so powerfully pro-
moted civilisation in the other continents of the eastern hemisphere.
8. Area and Population. — Great uncertainty still attaches to the
area of Africa, but it is usually estimated at 11,556,800 sq. m., being
about three times the area of Europe with its islands, or two-thirds
that of Asia. It is thus the second largest of the six great divisions
of the globe, and decidedly larger than either of the other sonthem
continents. No precise datA can yet be given for the popolation ;
but according to tne latest estimates it amounts to about 200,000,000,
or somewhat more than one-seventh of the human race. Next to
Europe and Asia, it is the most densely peopled continent, having
164 persons to each sq. m., while Asia has 42, and Europe 7^
Formerly the population of Africa was estimated at from 60,000,000
to 80,000,000 ; but recent travellers, who have penetrated &r into
the interior, have found many places much more densely peopled
than they had been understood to be.
4. Political Divisions. — As much of the continent xemains un-
explored, and as the political relations of many of tiie barbaioa
nations lying south of the Sahara are continnaJlj flnotoatiiiff^ the
actual number of independent states cannot be spaoiAed witn any
degree of accuracy. The annexed table, howerer, nabnom all tiie
really important divisions, though not a few of tiia dflrigMttiaiia
employed are rather geographical than politioaL
r ^1. iSi ."Ill's
^liiilUKill'
111
111
!!ll!S!lll!!!!!!l!!i!!ll I
lii's'islillfiSlilsiiiilis l s
illi|lisi§ii|lil5lES.|iSl ' i
Jl
ilUl-
l5'<iiS»f3Si|l|i5i:i|l=
440 POLITICAL OEOGRAPHY.
5. SurfiBUse and Moantalns. — The surface of Africa, as a whole,
consists of an immense, moderately-elevated plateau. If we draw a
line from the Gulf of Aden to the Bight of Biafra, the region lying
north of the line forms an immense oval, having its greatest exten-
sion from east to west ; while that to the south of the line forms
a triangle, with its greatest length from north to south. This
triangle is in general of twice the e&vation of the oval, while in each
the mountain-ranges pursue the direction of the greatest length,
along the outer margin, with the lower grounds forming the interior.
The general elevation of the northern plateau is about 2000 ft., and
of the southern from 4000 to 5000 ft. A narrow, elongated plain
occupies the N., from the Mediterranean to Mount Atlas, and from
the Atlantic to the Red Sea. S. of Mount Atlas is the Sahara, or
Great Desert, an immense sandy waste, but presenting great diver-
sity in its physical configuration, some parts being low and flat,
while in others it consists of table-lands and hills. The region of
Nigritia,of one-fourth the size of the Sahara, consists of an immense
plateau of from 1000 to 3000 ft in elevation. The basin of Lake
Tchad, however, is less than 1000 ft. high ; but the region between
the lake and the Chadda rises in Mount Mindif to 6000 ft. S. of
Nigritia the Kong Mountains, from 2000 to 3000 ft., form an im-
mense wall, separating Soudan from Guinea. Near the sources of
the Chadda, Mount Alantika rises to the height of 9000 ft Pro-
ceeding eastward, we arrive at the mountains of Abyssinia, one of
wliich, Ras Detschen, is 15,986 ft high, and Abba Jarrat 15,020 ft
Proceeding to the peninsular part of the continent, we find an im-
mense mountain-range skirtin<y the eastern side, from C. Guardafoi
to the Cape of Good Hope. Tlie range attains its maximum eleva-
tion in the volcanic peaks of Kilimandjaro, 20,065 (the highest
mountain in Africa, so far as yet known), and Kenia, 18,000 ft
Towards the apex of the triangle are the Drakensberg mountains in
Natal, 10,357 ft, and the Compass Berg, in Cape Colony, 8500 ft.
On the western margin of the triangle are the Omatako Berg, in the
Damara Country, 8739 ft. ; the Camaroons Mountains, near the Bight
of Biafra, reaching, in Albert Volcano, a height of 13,000 ft. Far to
the east of these are the Blue Mountains, skirting the W. side of
Lake Albert Nyanza, and, according to Sir Samuel Baker, who saw
them in 1865, supposed to be 7000 ft. above the level of the lake, or
9500 ft. above the sea. There are no extensive low-lying plains in
Africa, such as occur in other quarters of the globe, with the excep-
tion of the basin of Lake Tcnad, 830 ft above the sea-level ; the
oases and some waterless depressions of the Great Desert ; the basin
of Lake Tanganyika, which has an elevation above ilie sea of 2710
ft. ; and certain parts of the coast, especially the deltas of the Nile^
Senegal, Gambia, Rio Grande, and the Quorra or Niger.
6. Isthmus and Gapes. — Isthmus of.Snez, nniting AMca with
Asia, 72 m. broad, and now traversed Iry a canal ; Gapen DaaD m*'
Ras-al-Krun, N. of Tunis ; Spartel, iJ. of IfazooGT *-
Nun, W. of Marocco ; Bojador and Blanco^ W. of th'
I
AFKICA. 441
*ild Eoxo, \V. of SeneEjambiii ; Pnlmas, Three Poiiita, rmd Fonnosiu
B. of Upper Guinea ; Lopoi! and Negro, W. of Lower Guinea ; Good
Hop« Bud Agulliui, a. of Cape Colony ; Corrieutes, 8. K of Sofaln ;
De%adD, N. E. of Hozambique ; Uuardafai, tlie tnoat E. 2>oint of
Afriea; St Mary and Amber, the S. and N, Bitretnities of Mada.
7. IilaodB. — The islands are chieSy arraneed in f^nps nr trnia!!
-krchipelitgaeB. In the Medittmmean, Jerbah and Earkenah, E. of
Tnnis. In the North Atlantic, Azores, Uadnra, Canary, and Cape
Terd Islands. In the O. of Ovinia, Fernando Po, Prince's Island,
8t Thomas, and Annabon. In the Soalh AHantie, Ascension and St
Helena. In the Indian Ocean, Madagascar, Hauritius Gronp or Mas-
carene Islands, Comoro, Zanzibar, Aniirantes, Seychelles, and Socolra.
The Azores, Madeira, and CanaiT Iilei have been described at p. 1S3.
The Cape Yard Islandi, sitnated 320 m. west of Cape Vard, form an
■rchipBlago of ten prhicipal and several smaller islands— all of which
belong to Portugal ; area, 16S0 sq, m. ; pop., 85,400. The ten largBat
islands ar^ Sant* Antonio Santo Vicente, Santa LanA, Santn Nicolao,
Sal, Boavisla, Maio, Sant' lago, Foeo. and Brsva. Thej are all of vol-
canic oii^n, and Fogn, which is 9157 ft. in elevation, still emits mnch
HtDOke, The soil is modeistely fertile ; tbe absence of trees -and the
scarcity of water caune frequent and severe distress. Theclimalfl is very
hot, but it la Iflmpered by tbe aea-breeiBs, The chief products are maize,
rice, orcbal, French beans, coifee, cotton, tobacco, and fnilts. Turtles
are nnmerouB on tbe coasts, where om^ter is also abundant- Fernando
Po, Prlnce'i Island, 8t l^omaa.and Annabmi, aUlntbeBigbt ofBiafra.
are niotintainous, beautiful, and fertile, yielding rice, sugar, and tropical
tmita. Fernando Po and Annabon belong lo Spain, the other two to
Portngal. Santa Isabel, in Fernando Po, baa nti elevation of 10,700 ft,
JdCeiuiOn Islitiid and St Helena, both belongine to Britain, are situated
far mit in the Atlantic, the former abont SOO m. S.S.E. of C. Falmas, and
the latter nearly 1200 in. E.3.E. of C Lopez. Ascension is retained iw a
station at which ships may touch for stores, on their pass^e to and from
Chpe Town and the East Iniliea ; area, S5 sq. m. ; pop., 400 ; capital,
Georgetown. St Helena is of volcanic origin, and oonaists of rajjyod
nioontains interspeiscd tdth numerous tsrlnes, In one of which atandn
Jamestown, tbe capital ; area, 48 sq. m. ; pop., 7000— about one-half of
whom ore whites. Only one-liftb of tbe surface is fertile, yielding the
pndnets both of EurD]>Gan and tropical countries. The diniat« is mild
and Tery healthy. It was ceded to the East India Company by Holland
*- "iTZ. St Helena is chiefly noted as the place of eiUe of Napoleon
laparte, from 1816 to his decease in 1S21. His remains were ex-
.-.--.-- - „ , a, from, which it is separated 1 ly
unel of MoxamUlquu, 240 m. wide. It extends from lat. 12* SI'
■^1, and from Ion. 43° 20" to 60° 31' E. The area is estimatedat
, m., or more than totir times tlia ske of England witlinut
4 thB ptqi, at »boul i^OOO.OOO. It is divided fiito unmemufi
- -" -' whiah nre triuutary to one sovereign, wliose capital,
-'ed on ft lolly plateau, near the centre ot the isl.ind.
,000 fidiabitanta. Tnmatave, the vhief eommetdal
"' oaut, K.Fi of the cap. Other towiu aie Fort
442 POUTICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Daupbin, Maiianibatoo, Mananzari, Andevoranto, Port Louis, and Port
Lnke, all on the east side of the island. A chain of mountains traverses
tlie island in the direction of its greatest length : the highest summit,
Ankaratra, near the cap. , attains an altitude of about 11,000 ft. Minerals
are abundant, especially gold, silver, copper, lead, iron, and coal. The
iron is mined to a considerable extent, and the coal is employed in smelt-
ing it. The climate is hot and extremely unhealthy to Europeans, espe-
ci^y along the E. coast. The soil is very fertile, with rich pasturage, and
niagiiilicent forests which contain a great variety of beautiful and useful
trees. Wild animals are few in number, consisting chiefly of lemurs (a
species of ape peculiar to this island and the Comoro group in its vicinity),
the ounce, wild-dog, wild-cat, and fox. Birds and crocodiles are very
numerous ; and locusts — which enter the island from the south-west —
visit it periodically, and cause much damage to the vegetation. Domestic
animals comprise the bison, sheep, swine, dog, and cat. Silk-worms are
reared, and honey and wax are obtained in great abundance in the woods.
The chief vegetable productions consist of medicinal plants, pepper, cot-
ton, indigo, sugar-cane, tobacco, rice, and manioc. The principal articles
of export are the native products now enumerated, while the imports
consist of linen, ribbons, glass, and Spanish piastres. The inhabitants
consist of two distinct nations — viz., the Oazumbe, who were the abor-
igines ; and the Hooar, who appear to have arrived about 800 years ago.
Both nations, however, belong to the Malay race, and speak the Mala-
gasy, which forms a member of the Malay- Polynesian family. In re-
gard to simplicity and phonetic structure, this family excels all others
m the worli For example, most of them have but ten consonants,
while none of them allows a syllable to close with a consonant, or to be-
gin with more than one. Christianity was introduced here in 1818.
The missionaries at first met with great success under the patronage of
King Radama ; but, in 1828, he was succeeded b^ Queen Ranavola,
who cruelly massacred vast numbers of the Christians. After her
death, in 1861, the progress of the gospel in the island has been almost
unprecedented. The Mauritius Group, discovered in 1545, consists
of three islands, Bourbon, Mauritius, and Rodriguez. The first-named,
also called He de la Reunion, 400 m. E. of Madagascar, has been a
French colony since 1642 : ai'ea, 824 sq. m. ; pop., in 1861, ezdn-
sive of its dependencies (Nossi B^, Mayotta, and the small isUnd St
Marie, near Madagascar), 183,361. The cap., St Denis, lies on the north
side of the island. Piton de la Foumaise, an active volcano, is 7218 ft.
high. The climate has recently undergone a great change for the worse.
The annual fall of rain is, on an average, 128 m., and the mean tempera-
ture, 77° Fah. Terrific hurricanes are common, and cause neat destmo-
tion. Tlie soil is fertile in the vicinity of the coast, proaudiig sugar,
coffee, cloves, maize, rice, and tobacco, which, together with dy^-wooda
and saltpetre, form the principal exports. Mauritliia, alyo called Iflto of
France, situated 115 m. N.E. of Bourbon, was discovered by fhe Porta- .
guese in 1505, and received its name from the Datoh, who wen the fini
settlers, in honour of Prince Maurice. It was oooapiad by the Vnatk
from 1713 to 1810, when it came into the poeseadon of Britain.
700 sq. m. ; pop., 313,462. It is mountainoiiBy tMeUy
well watered. The climate is healthy ; the ""'^— ' " '*'"
Louis, the cap., is 78' ; but being sitnatMl *
Indian Ocean, it is subject to deetmcti
fertile, producing coffee, indi^, cott*
ducu however, is sugar, wYixqu \i
AFRICA, 443
eglect of eyerytliine elno. In 1800 the exports of sugar amounted to
248,000,000 lb., while the imports frnn Great Britain were rained at
£583,000. aodri^nei, situated 300 dl K of Mmritiua, of which it ii a
dependency. Comoro Isles, s grou|i of Tolcanic iatHniia, at the northern
entrance of tho MoaaTnbiqno Channel They contain 80,000 inhabitants,
who speak the Arahic language, and prnfsSE the Mohammedan religion.
They are Eovemed hy native sultans ; but Mayotta, one ot their number,
was ceded to France in 1S46. They are of volcanic origin, monntainmis,
and fertile in tropical jiroductions. Tlieir chief eiports are BUBai, coffee,
cocoa-nut oil, and tortoise-ahelL Zanribftr and fembo, off the coast of
Zangnebar, are fertile, densely peopled, and tribntai^ to the Bultait of
Muscat. Shnnganny, in the former island, is the residence of the vassal
Sultan. Zanzibar produces doves, cocoa-nuts, manioc augur-cans, coSie,
tobacco, pamegrauaUiE, and tlie castor-oil plant It is also the chief market
in the world for the supply of ivory and gum-copal. Amirantea and Sey-
chelles, two groups of iaianda in the Indian Oi:ean,nnder the jurisdiction of
Great Biitalu. They are of gtsultic formation, are surrounded with
nnmeroua roi-ks, and contain BOOO inhnhitanta. The Amirantes Mrs desti-
tute of water, but are visited by the inhabitauts of Mauritius for the land-
turtles with which they abound. Tlio Seychelles are elevated on a coral
bank; their most remarkable product is the com dt mtr. The chief
town. Port Victoria, contains a garrison. Soootra, 100 m. E, of Cape
Guardafui, ia a dependeneyof Muscat. The area is estimated at lOOO
sq. m., and the pop. at 5000, who are mostly Bedouins. It has besn long
famous for its aloes, dragon's blood and other gums, tamarinds, tobacco,
dat«s, millet, and ghee.
8. SafiB, Bayt, OnlfE, and Stntlta.— Mediterranean Sea, between
-Africa and Europe i G. of Sidra (SyHit ili^or), bet. Barca and
Tripoli ; G. of CaW {Syria Minor], E. of Tunis ; Str. of Gibraltar
{FrctJim NcjiMleiim), bet. Marocco and Spain ; G. of Gniues, bet.
Upper and Lower Guinea ; Bights aC Benin and Biaira, on either
eide of the delta of the Niger ; Table Bay, S.W. of Cape Colony ;
Mnzambique Channel, bet. Mozambique and Madaf^car; G, of
Aden, Str. of Babelmandeb, Bed Sea, and G. of Suez, bet. Africa
and Arabia.
!>. Uonntolns and Table-Landfl.—
fate," and under tile countries in
situated.)
10. RiTerB.— As much ot the interior of Africa remains unexplored,
nnd as well-defined water-partings are rare, no table of river-busina,
similar to those given under "Europe" nnd "Aain," can be^vun. I
Ther may, however, be arraDged into four systenu, eoireapnding ta I
tbafbBTffr^IualHtOwhi.'b ihey belong— viz., the Mediterranean 4
■ ' 1 ■ linlian Ocean, and the J
444 POLITICAL GEOOKAPUY.
nnitea with a large affluent from the W. named 6ahr-el-0hazal ; then
proceeding northward, it meets on the right the Giraffe and Sobat, and
then the Blue Nile or Bahr-el-Azrek, at Khartum, in Nubia. Its only
other tributary is the Atbara or Tacazze, from Abyssinia, which joins it
on the right. The total direct course of the Nile is estimated at 4000 m.,
and the area of its basin at 520,000 geographical sq. m. 2. Atlantio
Basin. — The Seneg^, from Bambarra, 1000 m. long, pursues a N.W.
course, and falls into uie Atlantic in the N. of Senegambia. The Chunbia.
from the Tengui Mountains, flows W.N.W. for 1000 m., and faUs into
the Atlantic at Bathurst. The "SAo Grande, from Foottyallon, flows W.
to the Atlantic ; length, 400 m. The Quorra, Joliba, or Niger, from the
Kong Mountains, flows N.K to Timbuctu, and then S.K to the Bight of
Benin ; total course, about 2000 m. The Congo, by far the largest riyei
in W. Africa, is known in its upper course as the Lualaba, which re-
oeives the Lukuga from L. Tanganyika* The Orange between the
country of the Hottentots and Cape Colony, flows W. to the Atlantic,
after a course of nearly 1000 m. 3. Basin of Indian Ocean. — ^The
Zambesi, an immense river of Eastern Africa, explored by LiAingstone in
1S56, rises in Lake Dilolo. It first receives the name of Leeba for about
200 m., when it is joined on the left by the Leambye from N.E. Aiiout
800 m. farther on it receives the Chobe from the S.W. ; about 40 m. £1
of the confluence of the Chobe, Dr Livingstone discovered the Victoria
Falls, where the river, now about half a mile wide, rushes over a preci-
pice 100 ft. deep. About 800 m. below the Falls, the Zambesi receives
the Kafue, on tne left bank ; and, about 140 m. farther down, it is joined
by the Loangwa, flowing from the N. Flowing K and S.E. for about
800 m. more, it receives the Sliir^, from the great Lake Nyassa, lately
discovered, and finally reaches the ocean, after a total course of about
2400 m. In common with the other large rivers of Africa — as the Nile,
the Zaire, and the Niger — the Zambesi is characterised by periodic in-
undations. 4. Basin of Lake Tchad. — The Teon, from near Jacoba,
flows N.E. 300 m., and the Shary, from Dar KuUa, flows N.W. 360 m.
into Lake Tchad.
11. Lakes. — Many of the lakes of this continent are of great mag-
nitude, some of them rivalling the largest lakes of N. America and
Asia. They are generally fresh, and for the most part drained by
rivers belonging to the great oceanic basins. The following are the
principal : —
Nile Basin.— -The Victoria Nyanza and Albert Nyanza, on the equator,
drained by the White Nile. The former has an area of 30,000 sq. m.
(being about the size of Scotland), and an elevation of 8740 ft above tiie
sea. It discharges its waters into Albert Nyanza, lying to the W. of it,
2720 ft. high, and nearly its equal in size. Victoria Nyanza, whidi pro-
bably forms the source of the Nile, or at least the mam reservoir whioh
feeds it, was discovered by Captains Speke and Burton in 1869 ; and the
Aibert Nyanza by Baker in 1864. South-west of Victoria Nyanza is Lake
Tanganyika, about 18,000 sq. m. in extent, or about the same size as Lake
BaikaL Its elevation above sea-level is stated at 2710 ft. Its diainun*
a question so long disputed, is now all but settled. In Hay 18/4^
Lieutenant Cameron, while carefully exploring its western ahoraa, fioiuia
a lai^e river, named the Lukuga, issuing out of the lake near laL 0^.
The natives informed him that it pursues a S.W. oouzm till itmeeta tiis
famous Lualaba (of Livingstone), which is ksown to flow fai a N-"-
direction, through innumerable lakes, the highest of whieh jA BaOC^
* This mighty river, the chief explorers of which are Uvh
Stanlsy, " must now be regan\eA aa l\\fc U\Vtd larfput rir
AFBlOi. 4*9
which receives the Cliambcri. Tlie only other importnnt Inke in this
bisin la Lake Taua or Dembea in AbjBBiLla, 8120 ft. above the sea, and
iintiiiiig the head-watets of tlis Babr-Bl-azieli or Blue Mile.
ZiJtHEsa Basis. — The only large lake known in this basin ia Nyassaor
fjyanja, W, of Mozambique, and abont 350 m. inland. It is 250 m. long,
by about GO m. bruad ; is about 1575 St in elevation, a fact which renders
it just possible that Lake Tan^njika dischai^ea its contents into this
lake. It ia drained by the river Sliir^ into the Zambesi. The small lake
Kbirwn, SDOO ft. high, lies to the 8.E. of it, but baa no known ontJst.
About 900 m. S.W. of Lake Nya&ia is the much aniBller lalce Kgami, 2385
ft. above tlie sea. Its drainage is yet uncertain, but it probably send*
its waters to some affluent of the Zaml>es& Lake Dilolo (Ist. IV 15' S. )
is T^atdeil by LivingsCone as the ao\u^e of both the Zanibesd and Congo.
So far as known, there are no lakes of any Importance in the basins of
the other lai^ rivers of Africa.
CONTiaiiBIAL BiSiN,— Near the centre of the continent, in the north
of Soudan, Is Lake Tchad, a large shallow fresh-water lagoon of variable
titent, having no outlet, but receiving the rivers Sliary uom the S, and
Yeon from the W. Its elevation is B30 ft. above the sea, and it contains
many Islands. About 200 m. east of Lake Tchad is the much smaller
Lake Fittri, which receives the Batha, but has no ontlet. In the low
ground south of Mt. Atla£ are numerous salt-water marsbBS, named
Setiai, the chief of which are Faroon, in Tnnis ; Melrir and Shergui, In
Algeria; Rarbi and TigrI, in Marocco; and Gnrara, in the S. of the
Sahara (Inn. 1° W.) In the S.E. of Abyssinia la the small salt laksAssal,
chiefly remarkable for being 760 ft. bdow the level of the Eed Sea.
12. Climate. — Africa is distiugnished tram all the other great
ilivisiona of the globe by its high temperature and general deficiency
of rain. These charactsristios mainly depend on its position ajid
configumtioD.
Situated for the most part within the tropics, with the equator passing
through iW centre, it is more exposed to the vertical rays of the sun than
any other continent ; while the absence of deep inlets of the ocei
the prevalenoe of lofty mountain .ranges along the coasts, prevei . ...„
cool sea-breezes from penetrating into the interior. Accordingly, tha 1
intertropical portion, more espei:ially Seuegamhia and other p^is of J
the western coast, have been found more unhealthy to Europeans thaq 1
any other region of the globe : here the moat deadly fevers prevail, aiu]
the strotLgeat constitutions are not proof against the pestilential inJBit'-.
encea otthe mojat and heated atmoBpliere, On the other hand, Bouthemfl
Africa Is more favonrable for the recovery or peraons afflic1;ed with puHJ
inonary complaints than any nther region of the earth's aurfaoe. Anothet ,J
i?EXt
446 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
prominent feature of the climate of tropical Africa is the diyision of the
year into the dry and rainy seasons, wnich in most places succeed one
another with undeviating regularity. Within the tropics, the rains fol-
low tlie course of the sun— the rainy season occurring within either half
of the torrid zone as that luminary approaches the zenith. On the N. side
of the equator the tropical rains extend noilh wards to the border of the
Sahara, but in Nubia they reach as far N. as the 18th parallel. Beyond
the tropics, the rain falls in either hemisphere at the period when the
sun is on the opposite side of the equator — that is, in the winter of those
latitudes. The winds which bring the heaviest rains in tropical Africa
are called monsooTu, and come from the Indian Ocean. They continue
from April to October ; but, from Mozambique to the equator, the rainy
season is during April, June, and July. The climate of North Africa is
greatly affected by the position of the Atlas range of mountains. Be-
tween this range and tne Mediterranean the country is well watered;
but between Mount Atlas and the northern limit of the tropical rains,
scarcely any rain falls during the year. In Upper Egypt also no rain
falls for several years in succession. The same phenomenon also occurs
in South-Westem Africa, between Lake Ngami and the Orange River—
a region now known as the Desert of Kalahari. The mean annual tem-
perature of the greater part of intertropical Africa is 79' Fah. ; but in
Eastern Nigritia and Abyssinia, or the region extending from Lake Tchad
to the Red Sea, it is as high as 88% while at Mourzouk, in Fezzan, the
summer heat reaches 130° Fah. in the shade (see table of temperature,
p. 35).
13. Geology. — The geology of Africa remains as yet in an ex-
tremely imperfect state ; but, so far as kno\vn, Crystalline and
Igneous Rocks prevail over the whole southern half of the continent,
as also in Nortli-Eastem Africa, between the Nile and Red Sea.
Primary and Transition Bocks occupy an extensive tract in South-
Westem Africa, between the Cape of Good Hope and the northern
limit of the Namaqua country, together with two smaller areas in
Senegambia and Dahomey. Secondary Hocks form the prevailing
strata over the entire region north of the chain of Mount Atlas,
extending eastward as far as the Nile, and occur also in extensive
patches in Fezzan, Eordofan, Eanem, Bambarra, Sierra Leone, and
the Gold Coast. Tertiary and Alluvial strata cover, so far as known,
the remainder of this continent, especially the Sahara, Soudan, and
two long narrow belts, one along the Mediterranean coast from the
south of Tunis to tiie eastern frontier of "Efcyjit, and the other along
the Atlantic coast from the mouth of the Zaire to GafM Town.^ Vm-
canic Bocks are known to occur in East Africa, between Yifitorift
Nyanza and the coast, as also in the region of the OamerooDB Moon*
tains, near the Bight of Biafra.
14. BUneralB. — ^Africa appears to be more defident in minerali
than any other continent, and very few mines axe wrooght
Gold is obtained in considerable qnantitj In eartidn puti of Bener
gambia and Upper Guinea, in Nigritia^ MoamMmws aod AlqrulBiA;
silver is rare, but is found in Marooeo and Atqrwil* ^ mntnwr fi
Atlas range, hi Nigritia, East Afric^ Cnw Gplopv ^
Zambesi ; lead and antbuony in Moont AIJ*>
especially in Algeria, AbywbUay Nigiitli^ ■
At'KICA. 417
found in nifiuy Incalities, and forms tlie moat vnlimlile miiieml proii^ct
of the niuuutaiiia of Borbary j and abundniice of ealine dspoBits, as the
nitrates of potash and of aoda, meets tin traveller in South Africa, in tlie
form of a thick incnutation on tlie aurfate of small lakes. Coal is fonnd
in Madagascar, Muzauiliique, and at Zumbo on the banks of the Zain-
beafi. Very recently a tract ct country nearly as large aa England, situ-
atad between the Orange River Free State and the Transvaal Bepublic,
has been found to poesesi valuable diamond-niinea.
15. Batany. — The botany of BoTthBrn Africa ia similar to that of
the Bonth of Europe, atiil has been already treated a( (p. 82).
The remainder of the continent is embraced within Sahouw's I3th,
Htli, ajld aSd Phyto-gac^rapLic Regions (p. B4). The first of these is
tlM iJaai Region, and embraces the Sahara^ characterised by an sx-
toemely scanty flora, consisting of a few pnekly alirubs and grasses,
exeept in the oases where the date-tree, com, and soiiie vegetables are
cultivated. Tho Hth region ia that of Trooicai Afiica, or Adansun'i
Reglan. It eiteuds from the fifteenth degr^ ot north latitude to the
Trmiia of Capricorn, and from the Atlantic tu the east aide of Madagascar
— tnaa embracing the whole region visited by periodical laina. Of this
Immense region the interior is little known ; and the remainder, though
possessing a luxuriant and gorgeous flora, is neither rich in species nor in
peculiar fonca. In general, however. It is characterised by the presence
ot tJjB baobab, the largest known tree : the Z-c^uminoje, Rvbiacea, and
Cyptraea are sIeso very prevalent. The eastem part, including Madagas-
ear, has a, peculiar flora, diatinguiahed by the genera Daiiaii, Ambom,
Dcmiem, aud others. Abyssinia ia the native region of the coffee-shrub.
In Gnmea are fonnd the butter-tree, the gum-tree, the Airican leak, the
caoutchouc, cabbage, mahogany, and mangrove trees, the acacia, cactus,
and cassia. In the biuiu of the Zambesi the principal vegetable products
K
^* If
a wheat, manioc, yams, millet, ha. The 23d region, or that of SouUi-
Aft-ica, between the Tropin of Capricorn and the Cape of Good Hope,
I ■ "3,itJQn when we come to treat of Cape Colony, Natal, and
MAKMALiA.—Of the ITIH speeiea of known inammala, about 446,
eiderably niore than one-fonrth of the wltole, are fannd in this con
and what is still more remarkable, no fewer than 3S9 species are i
t Ip. 58). Ill this reapeat it is disUniraished from all the otl
«] kingdoms, yviC ■ -.-.-. . ^ ., .
option of Central and South America,
■ 1 a still higher. Of its 63 species of
■v other continent— vit, the Barliary
I liar. Monkeys, baboons, and apes
:.<'iit where palm-trees are numerous;
• ' "lis Older is the gorilla of the western
hnTnanform Uian even the oraiig-
Modagascar are fomid Ilie
ajB or Chtiivmyi. The Cor-
448 POUTICAL GEOGRAPHY.
nivora comprise 174 species, of which 151 are peculiar. They are in
general highly ferocious and formidable to man. At the head of these
stands the lion, of which there are three varieties — ^the Barbary, Sene^,
and Cape lions. The tiger does not occur in Africa, nor have any bears
been found, while the wolf and jackal are nearly confined to the region
north of the Sahara. Leopards, panthers, and hyenas, are numerous
over the whole continent, as also tne civet, which is prized for its per-
fume. The ichneumon is widely distributed, and one species frequents
tlie valley of the Nile, where it is found useful in destroying the e^gs of
the crocodile and other reptiles. The Marsupialta are the only order of
mammals which have no representation in Africa. The Rodeniia are 104
in number, of which no fewer than 94 are peculiar, comprising various
species of Jerboas, rabbits, hares, squirrels, rats, and mice. The Edentata
comprise o species, all of which are peculiar. The 18 Pachydeiftwia are,
with one exception, all peculiar. First in rank amongst these stands the
elephant, which is found in all parts of the continent south of the Great
Desert. It attains to a great size, and is of a different species from the
Asiatic elephant Its flesh is held in much esteem, while the tusks
constitute one of the principal articles of export The rhinoceros, which
is hunted for its hide and horns, frequents the same haunts as the ele-
phant The hippopotamus, an animal peculiar to Africa, where it exists
m two species, frequents all the larger rivers, especially the Zambesi, the
Zaire, the Niger, tne Senegal, the Grambia, and the upper course or the
Nile. Its teeth consist of the finest ivory, for the sake of which it is
hunted by the Cape colonists. The engallo, or wild-boar, differs from
the European species ; while the zebra, quagga, and dow, which abound
in the centre and south, are all peculiar to this continent. The Rumiti'
antt are greatly more numerous than in any other part of the world of
equal extent — there being no fewer than 65 species, nearly all of which
are peculiar; and the researches of Livingstone, Barth, and others,
have added greatly to the number. The antelopes alone are said to
amount to 34 species. The cameleopard, or giraffe, is peculiar to this
continent, and extends from the Orange River to the Sahara. Buffaloes
abound in Southern and Central Africa, several species being found in
the basin of the Zambesi. The one-humped camel traverses the dreary
desert regions, while sheep, goats, and deer are numerous in the centre
and south. Of the 16 cetaceous mammaU, 7 are proper to the seas and
coasts of this continent — the most remarkable of them being a species of
whale, called lamantin, which is supposed to be the original of tiie fabn*
lous mermaid.
Birds. — The birds of Africa are far less numerous than the mammals,
there being only 164 species north of the Sahara, 211 in tropical, and
229 in Southern Africa. Among the most remarkable species an the
ostrich — the geographical distribution of which is nearly cceztensivB with
this continent, though corresponding species are found in Australia,
South America, and the Indian Archipelago. Its featfaen fonn a U^^blf •
valued article of traffic, the plumes being in mnoh remMrt in Eoro^ m
ladies' head-dresses. Its flesh, when young, is palataMi. aod iti ^ggp tea
considered a delicacy. The vulture, owl, raloon, and eupa an muOBg tti
birds of prey ; the Ouinea-fowl among the gaUinMaow UriafUha Ml
and flammgo among the waders ; the songstsia an tt ** ■■""ilJli • ••*'*'
the climbers include numerous varieties of pan«^ ' " "^
fishers. The now extinct dodo, at one time fr
ritius, Bourbon, and Rodriguez, was ejtUlptt
seventeenth century.
I
AFRICA. 449
EEiTILES Qf every ocdirr nre to be fouud in this continent. Tlio lanJ-
[ortoiaes are chielly coiiliiieiL tn it ; and though the eerpenta ace few in
number, the apeciaa that Biist aeem very widely spread. The hu?e
python is foUDil in the awampa and nioraaaea of the west. Of the SD3
ipeciea of knom saurlans, 2i are found in Baibary, aad. 2S in Egypt,
Jiubia, and Abyssinia. Thsse isclnde crocodiles, geckos, iguanas, muni-
ton, true lizaiils, and skinka. The true crocodiles ore peculiar to this
continent, aa are the gavials to Asia, and the alligators or caymans to
America. The commou crocodile, the largest of hring reptiles, though
Eo loiter found in the delta of the Nile, abounds in all the larger rivers.
iHTKBTBBBATi. —Africa ia peculiarly rich in maecta. Of these the
locusts are the moat rBmarkable, having been from time immemorial the
scourge of this eontinoot. Hanily leaa formidsiblB are the termites or
white ants, which awarm in countless myriada in tropical Africa. In the
basin of the Zambeafi, and many other localities in the S. and E., Uiere
is a venomous fly, called the tsetse, whoaa bite ia fatal to nearly all do-
mestic animals, eapecially the ox, horae, and dog.
17. EtJiinograpliy. — The people of Africa, so fur as known, belong to
three Rreat races— tbe Caacasian, the Nej^ra or Ethiopic, and an in-
termediate race, sometimea called tha Nilotic; but, perbapa, three-
fourtba of the whole belong to the Negro race, for the cbaracteristica
of which see under " Sondan," p. 475.
The whole of Northem Africa between the Mediterranean and Soudan,
and 6:[tandinB fi^to the valley of the Nile to the Atlantic, ia peopled by
nations belonging to the Svra-Aisbian branch of the great Caucasian
famiiy (p. 61, 469). The na'tione belonging to this branch in Africa ars
the Berbers, who receive different names in different localities. They call
themselves ArnuiisK, but in Marocco they receive the name Of S/iuU,
and in Tunis and Algeria Kabyli ("taourtttineera"). Tliey hare diatin-
gniahed themselves in their stni^le tor independence against the French,
who call them Zoutcti. They appear to have been the earliBat white inhabit-
ants of Northern Africa, but have been driven from their original settle-
ments by the Arabs who, In the seventh century, enteredthe country under
the standard of the Mohammedan conquerors who now poasesa tiio valley
of the Nile and most of the Mediterranean coast. These are now ititer-
iDiii|led with Moors, Turks, French, and Jrws, Central Africa, extend-
ing from the Sahara to the Zambesi, and from the Atlantic to the Blue
Hue, is occupied by the Negro race, to which the vast majority of the
popnlatiou of this continent belongs. Q'hey are divided into a great
number of disUnct nations, and constitute many powerful states, the
K'ncipal of which will be nnticed under SenBgambi^ Guinea, and Sondan.
uthera A&lca embnicea two leading races— the Hottentots and Kaflira.
Tha former are conttned to tha S.W. angle of the continent, extending
from Cape Ne^ to Cape Agulhoa, and penetrating into tha interior to
the desert of Kalahari. They ore a nomo'iic people, never cultivating
nor rearing any domeatic animal, and deriving their aubsistenoe
<U and beana and the flesh of game. Tliey form, indeed, one of
. jd^radod seotioua of the human race, and are proverbial for their
fprpiitr. The gr?at KaiBi "itinn occupies tha entire remainder of
"■■ '' nf the Hottentots, and extending, in
-tern Bids of the continent tliey
e Nrsjp, anrl on the eastern
(;.i;iii find Somali country
450 POLITICAL GEOORAPUT.
They greatly differ from the Hottentots in physical appearance, language,
manners, and modes of subsistence. They are described as a fine, athletic
race, frequently as handsome as Europeans: they are an agricultural
people, tUliug the ^und, and engaged m pastoral pursuits. The north*
east comer of Africa, between the Nile and Red Sea, and from Upper
Egypt to the equator, is occupied by what Dr Krapf calls the " Nilotic
class of nations, who form an mtermediate link between the Sjrro- Arabian
and Negro stocks. This class includes the Somali, Galla, and Afer or
Danakil, pastoral tribes, situated to the E., S., and W. of Abyssinia;
the Agows, of Western Abyssinia; and the Nubians, of Nubia and
Dongola.
Langvaaes. — ^The Arabic — a Semitic tongue — is the only language pre-
sently spoken in Egypt. It is also common in Nubia and many other
places. The Mongrebin, a dialect of the Arabic, is spoken by the Moors
and Arabs of the Barbary States^ while the Berber language forms a con-
necting link between the Semitic and African families. The languages
spoken by the Negro races belong to the Nigro-Hamitic group of Dr
Krapf, for which see under "Soudan" and "Guinea."
Religion. — Mohammedanism is almost the sole religion of Northern
Africa, with the exception of Abyssinia, where a corrupt form of Chris-
tianity prevails, and Algeria, where the French have introduced Roman
Catholicism. In the whole of Central Africa paganism of various forms
prevails, of which reptile-worship is the principal characteristic. The
crocodile and the snake are the gods of many of these nations — a circum-
stance which seems to connect tneir worship with that of ancient Egypt.
Nowhere do lust and blood reign so arbitrarily as in this region. It was
this that rendered the hateful slave trade so common. Yet this race has
many amiable characteristics, and not a few of them have embraced
Christianity. The Kaffirs and Hottentots are singularly devoid of the
religious feeling. The former believe in the existence of a Supreme
Being, but they have no form of worship. They practise circumcision,
and sacrifice animals to propitiate the spirits of the dead. In Cape
Colony, Natal, and other parts of South Africa, Christianity of the Pro-
testant form everywhere prevails.
THE EGYPTIAN EMPIRE.
As the result of numerous conquests during the. last few
years, the boundaries of the Khedive's empire have been greatly
extended in almost all directions. At present they may be
stated as follows : —
Boundaries. — N., the Mediterranean ; W., Tripoli, the
Sahara, and Bagirmi (in Soudan) ; S., the ISTiam Niam country.
Lake Albert Nyanza, the Equator, and Abyssinia ; E., Gulf of
Aden, the Red Sea, and Isthmus of Suez.
Thus, besides Egypt Proper, it now embraces Nubii^ Kordoliui, Baxi
and Unyoro (all in the v^ley of the Nile), together with DnfOar, Dm
TSE
EUFIRE.
451
I
I
Pertit, ana Wmiai in Nigritia, and tlie entire western coast of tlie Red
Sea and Gulf of Aden, aa fur south as Zeyln. In lat. it eitends from the
equator to -the par. of Sl° 35', and in Ion. from IS° to 44° E. Eliarttiin,
tLe cap. of Nubia, situated nearl; in tite exact centre, is in the want
latitnde as Ooa, Bangoon, GuateiTiala, Cape Verd, and nearly on tlie same
meridian as tlie Great Pyramid of Jcezeh,
Area and Fopulatlan. — No approncli to accuracy can be made S3
yet in regard to eitlier the area or population. Five years ago the
ifomier was understood to amonnt to 880,000 sq. m., and the liitter
to 7,405,000 persons ; but since the recent acquisitions of territor.r,
both of these results must fall far short of tlie truth, and na may
uot be very wide of tht mark if we give the area as 900,008 sq. miles,
and the pD]mlation as 10,000,000 ; or seren times the area of the
British Isles, with ane-tbird their population. This atlons only
eleven pelBDHa to the sq. m. But Egypt, the princiiml part of the
empire, reaUy consists of the Delta and the very narrow valley of the
Kile, while all the other tenitories of the empire are the abodes of a
half-ciriliacd and degraded population.
?aIlIloal DlrtBlons. — Egypt Propor, the principal section of this
wide territory, extends from the Meditennneen to the first cataract
of the Nile, and is sulidivided into three provinces — Lower, Middle,
and Upper Egypt. Jfahiahe^na where Egypt enda, and conaists of
Lower Nuhia and SennfLr. Kordofan lies S.W. of Nubia; while
Darf^r and Wadai, formerly portions of Soudan, lie still further
west, but still in the Nile basin. The last section of the Khedive's
dominions is Samara, on the Ked Sea, recently wrested from Abys-
LowER EOYPT. — Cairo 350, Alexandria 212, Rosetta 15, Tanta 30,
Bauiietta 37 (Kile), Port Sold 7, Ismailia 20, Suez 15 (Suez Canal).
Middle anh Uppbb Egypt.— Jeezeh, Metrahenny, Madinet-el-
Fainm So., Beni-Sonef 6, Siout 25, Girgeb 7, Eoneh.-S, Ruitta of
Thebes, Esneh 4, Aamuan (Nile), Koaseir 2 (Bed Sea), El-Khargeh 6
(W. Desert).
Nubia and Sahaba. — Der 3, Ipsambul, Khartfini 50, New
Dongola 6, Berber 9, JferSe, Sbendi 10 (Nile), Sennilr 9 (Blue Nile).
iBmsIlin or Oondokoro (White NEe), Suakin 8, Mosaowoh 8 (Kcd
Sea), Zeyh (G, of Adeu).
Kordofan, Daufdr, and Wadai.— El-Obeid 20 (Oasis), Kobliefi,
Warra 50 (see. p. 474).
Deaoriptivfl Hotee. — Cairo (El Kahireh of the Turks), the cap. of
IWpt and the largest city ie Africa, was founded by the Saracens a.d.
eee. The streets are narrow, and the houses are bullt of sun-dried Unuks,
obqaes^BL^
^s give the city ai
ling ap-
ander the Great, who founded it B.o. 332. At oi
* ' " "t And theapi-nnd city nfilie Roman empire, it is still a
•incp • .-• ■■- ffi by far the most popnlon
452 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Egypt. It is an important station on the overland route to India, being
connected by rail with Suez. Here was executetl the Septuagint transla-
tion of the Old Testament (about B.C. 284), and here was collected the
most famous library of the ancient world, which was partly destroyed bv
accident during the war with Julius Csesar, and the remainder by Calipii
Omar in a.d. 640; and here in 1801 the French were defeated by Sir
Ralph Abercromby, who was moi-tally woimded in the engagement.
Alexandria is the birthplace of Euclid, the celebrated mathematician,
B.C. 300, of Apollos, the eloquent Jewish Christian, and of many other
eminent men. Bosetta, at the mouth of one of the branches of the Nile :
near it, in 1799, was discovered the famous Rosetta stone, with a celebrated
trilingual inscription (dated B.C. 196), which has formed the key to the
deciphering of the Egyptian hieroglyphics, and which is now deposited
in the British Museum. Tanta, on the Damietta branch of the Nile, and
on the line of railway between Alexandria and Cairo, is noted for its
great religious f^Us. Damietta, the third principal port of Egypt, was
long noted for its manufactures of leather and dimity. Port Said, a
flourishing seaport town at the northern entrance of the Suez Canal.
Ismailia, near the centre of the Suez Canal, and the principal place along
its line, is rapidly rising into importance. Suez, at the southern termini
of the canal and railway, though always an important place from its
position on the higliroad between Europe and the East, is doubtless
destined to become greater still. Jeezeh, a small town on the left bank
of the Nile, nearly opposite Cairo, and celebrated for its proximity to the
principal pyramids of Egypt ; * here was fought the " Battle of the
Pjrramids in 1798, in which Napoleon defeated the Mamelukes, tfet-
rahenny, a village built on the ruins of the ancient Mempliis. Hedinet-
el-FayoTim (Arsmo^) is noted for its distilleries of rose water. Siont
(Lycopolis), the cap. of Upper Egypt, and the largest town south of
Cairo. Assouan (Syend), a little below the first cataract of the Nile, was
a place of prime importance in the geography and astronomy of the
ancients, as it lay under the Tropic of Cancer, and was therefore chosen
as the place through which they drew their chief parallel of latitude. At
the summer solstice the sun was vertical here at noon. El-Kaxgeh, cap.
of the gi*eat oasis, is a station for caravans between Egypt, Darftir, and
Central Africa. Derr, cap. of Lower Nubia, is an assemblage of mud-
built huts, 8un*ounded by palm-groves, which produce dates of a superior
quality. Ipsambul, a place remarkable for containing two of the most
perfect specimens oi Egyptian rock-cut temples, containing statues and
sculptures erected by Rameses the Great. Shartmn, cap. of Senn&r, is
the residence of the Egyptian governor, and formerly the great depot of
slaves sent from Soudan and Abyssinia into Egypt. Kew Dongofa has
an indigo factory belonging to the pacha of Egypt ; it is a military depot,
and a place of considerable trade. Berber, the rendezvous of the skve
merchants from Sennkr and Khartum. Meroe, a dilapidated town situ-
ated among the ruins of the ancient city of same name, on the east bank
of the Nile, where are still seen numerous pyramids more or less in a
state of decay, but of the greatest antic|uarian importance, as setting at
rest the (Question whether the ancient civilisation of Ethiopia proceeded
up the Nile from Lower Egypt, or down the river from Ethiopia. " Here,"
says Lepsius, " I was fully convinced that I had before me, in this the
* For a minute account of the principal scientific discoveries made by Pro-
fessor 0. P. Smyth and others from a careful study of the Great Pyramid, see an
elaborate paper by W. Petrie, Esq., in the author's ' Facta and Dates/ p. ISi^
136. E'.linburgh: W. Blackwood Jk Sons. Second edition, 1870
r
I
THE ECTPTIAK EMPIBE. 453
id spot of ancient Ethiojiia, nothing liut tlie niina of com-
Earatircly recent art. The r^presentationa ajid mBcriptions leave nnt the
■aat dnubt on the snhject ; and it will ho for over in Tain tn attempt the
(Rpport of the mach-Ioved ides of an ancient MeroB, glorions and famous,
ttia inhabitants of which were the predecessora and teachern of the Egyp-
tians in civilisatinn, hy referring to its raoniimental remains, which are in
no cose earlier than the first centory before Christ." Sbendl, a caravan
■Cation, bas a nemi-weehly niarket for lire stock, wheat, cottnn clotli,
ftolt, and aenna. Sennfti, the former cap, of the province of same name,
has manufactures of arms, hats, leather, sandals, iron-ware, and jewel-
lery. SnaMn, the only harbour in Nubia, Ib the place of embarkation
for pilgrims bound for Mecca. El-Obeid consist! of geveral villages clns-
tered together in aa oasis, and exports gold, silrei', ivory, hiden, gum-
Snrbce and llIoiuitalii8.^Tbo western balf of Egypt, from the
Hediterraiieau to tlie border of Nubia, ia known as the Lybiau
Desert, which is the eastern section of the Sabara, and partakes of
most of its cliaracteristica. The Lybinn Desert is now known to be
from 100 to leo ft. below the level of the Mediterraiiean ; so that,
were a canal cut from the G. of Sidra to tliia depresaion, an inland
oea, probably equal in extent to the Cospioi], would be formed. A
lonf; range of low limestone hills, called the Lybian Mountains, mns
north and south between this depression and the valley of the Nile,
which, with the Delta end a few oases, forms the only cultivable
portions of the whole country. A similar range of granitic hills mns
along the right or eoati'm side of the Nile, and called the Arabian
Slountains, which are in reality a continufltion of the lofty moun-
tiiins of Abyssinia. The highest summit of the eastern range is
Jebel.Lehumnh, BOOO ft. above the sea, and Jebel Gharib, 60O0 ft.
Nubia consists in genernl of a frightfully arid wilderness, which the
Nils cuts in two, fnrmln;; the desert of Bayudeh in the west, and
I that of Koniko in the east.
BlTer-^yatenu^Tlie only river in Egypt rnd Nubia is the Nile,
with its two great affluents, the Bahr-el-Azrek (Blue Nile) and
Atbara or Tocaxze, both of which come from Abyssinia and enter the
Nile oil its right bank, in Upper Nubia. The Nile is the largest
river of Eastern Africa, liaving un extreme length of about 4100
ni., and draining an area of about 750,000 English square miles.
In the lost IIGO m. of its course it does not receive a single afflu-
eut, owing to the sandy and raiulesa character of its basin. The
qnestion of the true source of the Nile has been the grand problem
ofgeogmphcrs forages, and is not yet absolutely set at rest. Much,
howerer.lias been recently effected to dear up its mystery (p. 4JJ.
eoi).
Near Cairo the ri
the fertile region ca , _ ^ .,
ongolar and like the fourth letter of the Greek alphahet. In a
times there were seven such anns or mouths, but at present thEn? air
tmly two— the Roselta and the Damletla moutlis. It wan lone supiiosed
Uint till inunditioui of the Nile were <jauied by the melting orthe snous
454 POUTICAL GEOGRAFUY.
in the Abyssinian mountains ; the real cause, however, is now ascertained
to be the periodic rains which fall in the tropical regions of this continent
between tJoly and September. The waters of the Nile begin to rise at
Cairo in June, attain their maximum height in September, and, after
remaining stationary for a few days, begin to subside gradually till the
end of November. In Upper Egypt, where the valley of the Nile is very
narrow, the maximum rise of the water is about 30 ft. ; at Cairo, about
24 ft. ; but, in the north of the Delta, only about 5 fL The amount of
the rise is a matter of extreme solicitude to the inhabitants, for should
it exceed its customary limits by even a few feet, the houses are swept
away, the cattle drowned, and incalculable iigury effected ; while should
it come short of its average height, a famine is the inevitable consequence.
On the retiring of the waters, the ground is covered with a rich aeposit
of mud, which is partly composed of vegetable matter, and which imparts
an unparalleled fertility to the soil. Much of the subsiding water is
retained in artificial canals, which, for the purposes of irrigation, are
spread like a network over the Delta and the narrow valley above.
Climate. — The climate of Egypt is extremely dry, the whole coun-
try being situated in the great rainless zone of the Old World, which
ertends from the western border of the Sahara to the eastern limit of
the desert of Shamo. It is this fact that mainly accounts for the
wonderful state of preservation of the numerous ancient monuments
with which the valley of the Nile abounds, some of them being up-
wards of 4000 years old. Showers of rain fall, indeed, occasionally
at Cairo, and more frequently in the lower portions of the Delta, be
tween November and March. In Lower Nubia rain is seldom seen,
while in SenuJlr it falls only once in two or three years, during the
prevalence of the great periodic rains in the upper basin of the Nile.
The heat of summer is oppressive, especially in Nubia, owing to the
confined position of the inhabited portion and the lowness of the sur-
face. At Cairo the mean annual temperature is 72'. 2, winter 68®. 5,
summer 85M. In Nubia the temperature rises from 90' in January
to 120' in April. During the spring equinox the country is visited
by a pestilential hot wind called the Khamsim ; and on the subsiding
of the waters of the Nile, fatel fevers, ophthalmia, and dysentery pre-
vail over the whole land ; but the plague is unknown south of the
second cataract.
Geology and Minerals. — The geology of the country is very imper-
fectly known. Granitic rocks prevail in Egypt, in the hills E. of the
Nile, and calcareous strata "W". of the river. Each of these has been
extensively used in the construction of the pyramids. In Nubia,
granite, quartz, sandstone, greenstone, and felspar occur in the west-
em ridges. The metals do not occur in Egypt, but muriate, car-
bonate, and sulphate of soda are j»roduced in large quantities in the
Natron lakes, on the skirts of the Libyan Desert ; while salt, marble,
limestone, and the red granite called "Syene marble," abound.
Emeralds are found in the mountains which line the Red Sea, but
the mines are now abandoned.
Botany and Agriculture. — The northern half of EgOTt belonM to
Schouw's 3d or '< Mediterranean Region ;" Sonthem jEgypt and tht
THE EGYPTIAN EMPIRE. 455
nurtli of Nuijia to hia 13th or "Desert Region ;" while S. of tha
16th parallel. Nubia and Kordofan belong to his 14th region, or
" Region of Tropical Africd," ThroQghoat the whole valley of the
Nile tha flora is verr limited as regiirds the number of epeciea, hut
those that exist are of snrpaasing beauty, la E^jit ai^culture has in
■U Kgea been carried to ita highest perfectian, Uie whole i^ricultuml
aysCem, however, being regnlated by the periodic imtndationa of tha
river. In this sense " Egypt is truly the gift of the Nile."
'Hie date-palm of Upper Egypt eitends N. as far as Thebes, Among
filanta peculVr to tSe country are the papyrus of the Nile (from the cel-
ular tissue of which a kind of paper was ancientty made), the liiyphus,
and lotua (plants of the buckthorn familyl. There are no forests, but
sycamores and palms are thinly difltributal. The fniit-treea are of tro-
pical orders; those of Europe do not flourish. The vine, which was
Sitsnsivety cultivated in ancient times, but eirtirpated by tha Hnasul-
mans, was reintroduced by Mehomet Ah, who also introduced the mul-
I berry-tree. The principal cultivated plants are cctton, lint, hemp, indiga,
I migBJ, lohaoco, and opium ; tha cereals comprise wheat, millet^ maiao,
' rice, and duirah — the last mentioned forming, with beans, the main food
of the people. Onions, melons, and cucnmbers are also eitensivcly raised
In Nubia, the baobab, the largest and one of the mostnseful of all trees,
palms of many species, the ebony-tree, and acacia, the mimosa abonnd,
while the cultivated plants are duirah, barley, cottfln, indigo, tobacco,
senna, coflee, datas, and the sugar-cane. Agriculture employs most of
the population along the banks of the rivers. The valley of the Nile ia
^0 narrow as to allow very little space for cultivation, but immense I'er-
tjle plains occur at the confluence of that river with its aiSneDts : here
BrUhcial irrigation is practised as in Egypt.
Zavibtgr- — The principal wild animals in Egypt are the crocodile,
iobneumon, jerboa, and fox; the wolf, hyena, and jacknl occasionally
visit the vnJiej of the Nile, but the hippopotamus has long ago re-
tited to Upper Nubia, and never visits the waters of Egypt exwpt
when forcibly borne down by the flood. Reptiles are numerous,
eepecially crocodiles and frogs ; while iDsectfl embrace the locust and
mosqalto, the tmncipal scourges of tha country. Domestic animals
I iSre the same an In Europe, with the addition of the camel and
I dromedaiT. Poultry are reared in vast numbers, the egga being
ifttched by the heat of ovens, and not by the ordinary process of
incubation ; but the poultry thus reared are destitute of the instincts
which relate to the care of offspring, and hence the artificial method
mOBt be persistud in. In Nubia are found apes, baboons, elephants,
rhinoceroses, hyenas, gazelles, giraffes, wolves, foxes, and wild-dogs,
irhioh are the principal mammaliiL Birds comprise the vulture,
lilttrich, bustard, shrike, thrush, parrot, heron, quail, and Guinea-
fowl. The crocodile is the principal rcpcOs.
Stlmogiaiilir. — From the tenth chapter of Genesis we infer that
it was first oolonised by the second son of Hum, who gave hia
name, Miimini, to hia adopted country. The land of Canaan
donhtle&a peopled about the same time by Ham's fourth son,
I, The eldest son. Cash, with his descendants, settled in
^^:!]ltrid
456 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Babylonia, Ass}Tia, and at a much later date in Ethiopia, as the
existing monuments at Meroe and other places attest (see above,
note on Meroe, p. 452) ; while Phut and his descendants settled in
North Africa, W. of the Nile, where they were early snbdned by the
Mizraites. These varions migrations appear to have taken place, for
the most part, immediately after the confusion of tongues, an event
which occurred about B.C. 2552. On, or Heliopolis, the first city in
Egypt built by the colonists, is believed by Egyptologists to have
been erected B.c. 2481. Babylon was founded by Nimrod, son of
Cnsh, B.C. 2534; and Hebron, the first city in Palestine, B.C. 2478.
The first king mentioned in history as having reigned over the conn-
try is Menes, whom the learned W. Osbnm shows to have lived
about B.C. 2429. a date corresponding with that of Yao, the Chinese
Emperor, and the Median (or first human) dynasty of Berosiis, with
whom the historical periods of China and Chaldsea respectively com-
mence (* Facts and Dates,' 2d edit p. 136). The name KKenL, by
which Egypt is denoted on its monuments, is the same as the
Hebrew Cham or Ham. Egypt was the chief primeval seat of the
race of Ham, and hence its designation as the " Land of Ham" (Ps.
cv. 23). But another branch of the family — viz., that of the Cushites
or Ethiopians, rivalled it in power and celebrity ; for while one sec-
tion of the Cushites, under Nimrod, settled in the valley of the
Euphrates, another section migrated at a later period to Abyssinia
and Nubia.
The modem Eo^yptians are mainly of Arab descent, but with an admix-
ture of the old JEgyptian or Coptic stock, who are generally Christians.
The "fellahs," or cultivators of the soil, who form the great bulk of the
Population, are undoubtedly of Arab descent, professing the Mohamme-
an religion. Besides these there are many Turks, Bedouins, and Euro-
peans. The inhabitants of Nubia are named Nubians and Kenoos. Thej
are of Bedouin extraction, but considerably mixed with the Coptic or
aboriginal inhabitants. Though generally of a dark swarthy complexion,
they have neither the negro features nor dark woolly hair ; and many of
them have the peculiar style of countenance which is often seen in the
sculptures of the Egyptian temples. In those sculptures we can see a
transition from the regular features and straight noses of the time of
Abraham, to the flat nose and thick lips of the age of " the king who
knew not Joseph ; " and ultimately of the protruding chin of the modem
negro.
Langtuige and Reltgion.^The ancient Egjrptian was closely allied in
grammatical structure to the Hebrew and Arabic, but ^ossarially it
seems to have formed a connecting link between the Semitic, Indo-Euro-
pean, and African families. It has been extinct for ages, and no literary
remains exist to show its true character, except some ancient inscriptions,
which, till recently, remained utterly unintelligible to scholars. The
Rosetta stone, containing a trilingual inscription, one of which is in
Greek, has proved of great service in revealing the contents of the inscrh^-
tions ; and additional information may yet be obtained from a oarenl
inspection of the dialects into which it was ultimately divided, and Ia
which very ancient translations of the Scriptures have been fanded dowB*
These dialects are the Coptic, now a dead language, but at
TBX BGT^TUK EUFIEZ.
ncular tonpue of all Egypt ; tlie Saki
a. Tbe Arabic is the mtl; language T
'c, ancieiLtly spcl^en in S^d or
IB piTvaliuit in a jicirtiaii of tbe
""" ' "" in Egypt, while
leAraliicls the mtly language preieiitl)' Hjioke:
QEiiidan IE the raligiou profomed by tli* great be . ^ _
ni-Ti. to tliiK, ■ cormpt rorm of ChritiIJsJU1:>' termed tbe Cnptic.
ta and Kordofuu Ide inbabiisnti are cliieHy nBcroea. T)*v are tlie
Fenmujtfl of h onee poverfal ii?F:m nBticm who camr (iown the Vlnite Nile
and Bubdaed the ^llbialJs in 1504. Tlie pBHtOTs! tribes* of the aoateni
desert, aiid tlitwe dwelling bIoue the BbnreE of the Ked Sas, are of Airij
orieiiL The latter £poak the tihaaz lan^afe, a dialect of tlie Arabic ;
d^ve their aubaiiaence from fiehing : and ap;>eai to he the BBme people
ae the aucieiit Tnglodyta or dwellen in i:sveE. The Arabic is the
oonunDU laogange, and Ilie HoliaimnedBii the Bole rsligion, of Nubia.
Kordofan is peojiled by three taoes— the Kuhaa or negroeB, the origmal
inhabitant ; the Dongulani who at diflerent times invaded the country ;
and tiibiis of Bedotiiii ArabB, froiu AriLhia. Severn! o! the tribee an
MiAainniediina, bat othEra are Btill pagans. (See under "Africa.")
QOTemmB&t. Army ajid Kavy, ftc — Tbe Govi'iiiment is a heredi-
tary vicercyalty under Ismail Pasha, a graudaDn of tbe famDUa
Udiemet Alj ^^gypt being natniually an appanage of the Porte,
theidceroj. or *'khed]v^" as he is Dow calledt canDot condnct liiplo-
e eicept throngh the Sultan of TVtey. Tbe ad-
f tie cooiitry is iinder a Miniflter of Stale appointed
bj tbe khedirf, bat the GovemnieDt is practically despotic
Tbe arnty, which Is ivsed hy conioriptipii, DonQated in 1B7S of 12,000
infantrv. ioOO cavalry, IfiOO artillery, besides a regiment cJ negroes in
Nigritia ; while the tieet cousiBted of 7 Hhips of the line. 6 frigates, and
SS other war.iesseli. In 1S73 the rBTenae amonnted to £9,»1],UU0; the
Bipenditn»to£8,B16,000; and the public deht to£56,(IU0,00D.
OaaunBTDe UUI MitTiiiftctnrea. — Egypt has recently become again
what it was in ancient times— the lii^road of commerce betweea
the Eaat and Wtst. Thia reeolt has been mainly effected hy the
ceniitnictioii of a tailvaj between Alexandria, Cuiro, and Snex, 210
III. in length, sjid still more by the constmction of the
Oanal (completed by M. de I^ssepH, a French e J
18SB). cnmi»niiig the Mt^ternuiean with the Sed Sea. Berniming
at Port fiaid ahoul 50 m. K of the Damiettn mouth of the Nile, it
BtRtulies almoBt due south by Ismallia to Suez, a distance of lOO m.
The Cnnal has a uniform depth of £6 ft. , tv[[Uireil ten Tears for in
OKOcntiou, and com neai-ly £l!t,0O0,000. In 16(5 one-half the total
numlier of sharca of the Canal Company were purchased from tlie
Ehedive by the Britinb Govenunent for £4.000,000 sterling. The
CDsmiercial inteTcourae of Esypt with the United EingJom is now
- vei]' great, in eouHeqneuce of these iniproved modes of transit, nearly
** oar trade to and fmiu India now passing tbrongh Ej.'ypt. ]i
8, tlu total Dumber of Bhips which passed tiiroogh the Canal waa
I,CKn7in{;2,0S5,000 tons, of which SIO ahins, with a tonnage of
AOBO belonged to the tToitAd EjDgdum. The expart« of £^>C
" Itries jn the ssjne year amounted to £18,752,000, and the
£10,682,000. The intercourse with Central Africa in rety
' u>4 i> CRCTied vn l^ means of caravans, which bring.
B great S
in Kovem
458 POUTICAL GEOGRAPUT.
in exchange for European and Egyptian pFoducts, ivory, gold dust,
skins, wool, grain, ostrich feathers, metals, and (till recently) slaves.
There being no coal nor iron found in the country, the manufactures
are inconsiderable, and are confined chiefly to pottery, cotton and
woollen cloths made by the natives, carpets, fire-arms, and military
accoutrements.
Historical Sketch.— Unless we except the valley of the Euphrates
and Tigris, this country is the earliest seat of ci\ilisation in the world.
Unlike all other lands, we find in Egypt many of the arts and sciences
in their utmost perfection upwards of lOOO years ago — a fact which con-
clusively shows that the earliest condition of the human race was not
that of barbarism. For nineteen centuries Egypt was governed by native
kings. Menes, its earliest king, began his feign about B.C. 2429, and
the line of the Pharaohs ended in the conquest of the country by Cam-
byses, B.C. 525. It was taken by Alexander the Great, RC. 832, after
whose death it was governed by tiie Ptolemies till B.C. 30, when it was
reduced to a Roman province by Augustus. The Saracens invaded it
in A.D. 638, and the Turks in 1163. The government of the Mamelukes
was established in 1250, but they were subjected to the Turks in 1517.
It was overrun by Napoleon in 1798, who was dispossessed by the British
in 1801, when the Turkish government was restored.
ABYSSINIA.
Boundaries.— -N.E., the Red Sea ; N.W., Nubia ; S.W., Kaffa
and the country of the Gallas ; S.E., the Som&li country. Lat.
70 S(y—16° N. ; Ion. 34^ 4(/— 40° 30' E. Gondar, the cap. of
Amhara, near the centre of the country, is on the same parallel
as Bathurst in Senegambia, Lake Tchad, Aden, Madras, Bang-
kok, Leon in Nicaragua, and Barbadoes.
Area and Population. — Since the coast region became subject to
Egypt, the area is restricted to about 158,400 sq. m., and the popu-
lation to 3,000,000, being five times the size of Scotland, with about
an equal population.
Political DiYlBions. — Tlie political condition of Abyssinia is of an
uncertain character, in many respects resembling that of Europe in
feudal times — each chief exercising authority over as wide a district
as possible. Notwithstanding the great accessions made to <mr
knowledge of the country during the last few years, tiie conntnr !■
still very imperfectly known to Europeans. The following distmct
states, however, are known to exist : — Tigr^ in the N., in the npper
basin of the Atbam or Tacazze ; Amhara or Gondar, in the eeo&t,
around Lake Tana or Dembea; Shoa, in the S.E.; and Samai«|
including the Afar country, now subject to Egypt, in the N.K.
TioR^.— Antalo 8 n. (Atbara), Axura 4 n., Adowa 10 QUxAi^
I
ABYSSINIA. 459
AMH4BA.— GojidarSn., Knarata, Ziig6(LTnna), HHgilala (Basil elo).
Sroa.— Ankfthar 16, Aiigolnlla 3 n. (Djinimrv, nffl. Blue Nile).
Sau&ba.*— Masaowa 12, Arkiko Amphilk (Bed Sea);
Deacriptive Sates, — Antalo, a. mean -nretclied. place, consisting of
kl)OUt iGOO liiLta, but possessing some trade and a. manufactory of
Bpesrs. Anun, the ancieut cap. of tlie kingdom of AbyseiiuB, now
gmtl; decayed, contains a Clinatian church, in wiiich are kept the
uioous 'Chronicles of Axum,' a copy of which waa hrought to Europe
by Bruce, the Abyssinian traveller. Adaw», the chief entrepot of trade
on the great caiaTSn-routs between Mvjsowali and Uondai. uondai, cap.
of Anihara, the central Btiite of Ahyasinia, was formerly very extensive,
*nt has now greatly declined. KliigdaJt, a hill fort, on tlia plalflau of
Silanta, 9050 ft. above the sea, stormed and totally destroyeil by a Brit-
«Ai force under Sir Robert Napier, April 13, 1S68, when King Theodoro
'Was slain and the British captives rescued. Ankobar, cap. of Sboa, at
'Sn elevation of 8200 ft., is considered the healthiest and most agreeablH
Jplaoe in Abyasinia. MaMOwah, the largest town in Samara, and the
ndiic![Hil seaport town in the whole countty : it belongs to Egypt, and is
the lenideiice of an Egyptian governor.
Mounlains. — The greater part ot Abyssinia fonns a
lofty table-land, vairing from 8000 to 10,000 ft. in elevation, inclin-
ing gently tovarda the west, as indicated by the general direction of
tha rlrera, with a mors precipitona descent ton^irdi the east, and
with abmpt, almost peipendicnlar, declivities towards the north
and south, as tlie great floodG from the rnoiintaina during the*rBiny
season pour down towards the Taoaize and Blue Nile, carrying with
them all the earth and loose materials which go to Ibnn the delta of
Lower E(rypL It is traversed in varions directions by mountain-
muges, tiie higher elevations of which freqnently rise above the
I limit of pereuniHl enow, which has here an elevation of 14,000 ft.:
|.Sas Detschen, at the source of the Atbara, 15,98e ft.; Abba Jarrat,
B Between the Atbara and the Onenqua, ]S,020 ft
r* 0UinBit8.^EitremEly varions— intensely hot in the valleys and
on the coast of the Ked Sea ; conl and bracing on the table-lands ;
severe cold on the niounlainB. The periodic rains commencB in
June and continue till September, dunng which tliey are so violent
_ii __.. ..___ ±j.. n,i ^ temperatnra
Oeology and Ulnarala. —Abyssinia pi'esents the most varied and
complex geological aspect imaginable. Sandstane, lying upon schia-
toQa rock, forms the principal strata, but contorted and dianipted in
eitenaive localities by basaltic rooks, which form the elevated peaks
I of the grent chain of mountains. The great Tnnu lake in the centre
' the coon try is compaied by recent travellei's to a huge crater,
le ahorea, the iaUnda, and the (urrtmnding muuntains are all vol-
toic, buialt being the prominent featura. Extinct volcanoes, hot
Hn^ and repcailaiiaa of ■ •'■\'\ut in mnny plntea, Other
'.able ,
tiony.
460 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
The principal salt deposit occurs in the Afar country, between the
eastern side of the plateau and the Red Sea, in a depressed plain
about 200 ft. below tne sea-level
Botany. — The vegetation of this country belongs in part to
Schouw's 12th and in part to his 14th Phyto-geogi*aphic Regions.
The whole land — whether valleys, plains, or plateaux — is watered by
countless streams. The soil, consisting of the detritus of volcanic
rocks, is so rich, of such fertility, and enjoying such climatic ad-
vantages, that usually three harvests are reaped in the year. The
temperate flora extends over a zone from 9000 to 6000 ft., the sub-
tropical from 6000 to SOOO, and the dry tropical coast vegetation
from 3000 ft. to the sea-level. The forests are magnificent, and
contain sycamores of great size, cedars, and beautiful specimens of
the acacia. The high plateaux yield luxuriant pasturage. The
coffee-plant is indigenous, and, with cotton, grows wild in the
mountains. The soil of the lower grounds is extremely fertile, and
furnishes, without cultivation, many of the finest vegetable produc-
tions of the torrid zone. Fruits are abundant, including the date,
orange, lemon, pomegranate, and banana. Other cultivated plants
are ieff (Poa abyssinica), from which is made the usual bread of the
people : the wheat and barley are excellent, and are found here in
numerous varieties : the sugar-cane is cultivated, but is only chewed,
as the ai-t of extracting the sugar is unknown. The vine is reared
in some parts, the finest grapes being met with to the east of Lake
Tana ; myrrh, senna, and other medicinal plants are plentiful.
Zoology. — The wild animals are numerous, and comprise the lion,
panther, leopard, wolf, striped hyena, two-horned rhinoceros, ele-
])hant, hippopotamus, booted lynx, cameleopard, zebra, quagga,
boar, buffalo, antelope, gazelle, and monkey. Birds of all kinds
abound, including the ostrich, eagle, vulture, parrot, partridge,
quail, and numerous species of water-fowL Crocodiles and serpents
are numerous, and some of them of great size. Bees are much cared
for, and some of the provinces pay a large proportion of their tribute
in honey. The ravages of the locust are terrible, and an insect
called the saltsalyay a little larger than a bee, is extremely noxious.
Mules, camels, and asses are the usual beasts of burden, the horses
being generally reserved for war and the chase.
Etlmography. — The people are principally of Semitic origin, and
are probably a colony from Southern Arabia. They comprise some
of the tribes called Ethiopians by the ancients, who, though of a
dark colour, were conspicuous for the beauty of their type. There
are in reality three table-lands, rising one above another, in lines
nearly parallel with the coast. The tribes inhabiting these various
plateaux, though of the same origin, vary in complexion — those of
the coast are black, with long crisped hair ; those of the higher
table-lands are of a copper or brown olive colour, with regular and '
well-formed features. The modem Abyssinians are a veiyinotlef
group of different races, consisting of descendants from the primi^**
Ethiopic stock ; of many Jews settled for ages in the ooontix
r
61
forming distinct colomea uni]«r tito name Fcluslia ("tlie ExUos") ;
of H large population of Arabis origin ; of Galliu, wlio have been
introduced from the south, extremely borbatoiw; aud of true ncgroea
iu a state of slavery.
Langvaga, — The Ethlopio or Glieei (p, 36S) was BUcienHy the only
vemaculHr dialect of Abysainia, bat the Amharic and Ticr^, its two
nodem dialects, are now the only languages known is the country,
exc«pt the Arabic, which is apokeu on the sea-coaot, and the Oalla,
Trhicb is not of Semitic origin, on the sontbem frontier jp. 353).
JCdigimt.—ThB religion of Abyssinia is for the most part a verj cor-
rupt form of ChriBtianity. The Christian religion vras BBtablisbed here
in the fonrth century, Imt it has long been shorn of its charaoterlatiQ
features. Baptism and the Lord's Supper are dispensed after the manner
of the Greek Chnrcli. Mohammedams ' -
lation of Samara, and Judaism among
ia tlie country. The "Felashaa" though Jews in religion and habit
are a native trii>^ and not of Hebrew origin. Tbey form colonies in
various looalitiBs. "Abyssinia is perhaps the only country in which
Christianity and Mobammedanism are in contact where the professors of
Islam ore the more energetic and trustwortby, holding the of&ces ivhich
require fidelity, tilling the mercantile stations, and descending to the
departments of manual labour, while those who take the name of Chris-
tiana are drones and beggars."
gaanftLOtnras Bud Oommeioe. — The manufactures comprise
leather, parchment, cotton cloths, tapestry fabricated from wool
and goats' hair, and articles of iron and hmas. The principal
Eliporta are ivory, gold, slaves, cattle, ghee, dhourra, honey, wai,
coffee, must, frankincense, mvrrh, cotton cloth, and mules ; and the
Imports, lead, tin, copper, silk, cotton, sngar, rice, gunpowder, glass,
IndioD goods, Peraian carpets, French cloths, and coloured skins.
Buaness is chiefly carried on at Massowah, a small Egyptifin port
on the Bed Sea, and is conducted chiefly by barter. The slave ti'ade
u actively prosecuted by the Mohammedans on the frontier.
Elver-Syitem ef Egypt, Itutita, and AbysEliila, or the basin of the
Nfle.— The totiJ length of the river cannot yet be stated, though
beyond doubt L. Tanganyika does not belong to its basin. Inclnd-
ing the Shibiyu, Qonrinu; into L. Victoria, the Nile must have a
lengiii including windings of lOOO m., while the area ot its basin is
believedto amount to 620,000 geographicalaq. m. (sea above, p. 4*3).
The following table shows the principal towns in this immense
basin (we under ' ' Al'riea ") : —
Jtinn. Tomu,
mie, Damletia, Rosetta, Alexandria, Cairo, Jtes^ Metro-
henn;/, Modinet-el-FaioHm, n., JJeni-Sovef, Siont,
Girgeh, Keneb, Jtuiiu pf ThAa, £a7ieh, Assouan,
Derr, Ipsambul, New Dongolo, Berber, AferSe,
Sbendi, Khartum, Gondokoro, JUureJiiiux, Fall/,
Ripmi Falli.
[[Atlitrs,... Antalo, n.
Marab Artown, Amm, n,
tcihr.el-A!Tek,...Khartuiu, Seunir, Zage, Knnrala. Gohdah.
r DjInuuR. I, . ...Aiigotiala, a., Ankobar.
462
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
BARBARY STATES.
Boundaries. — N., the Mediterranean ; W., the North Atlan-
tic ; S., the Sahara or Great Desert ; E., Egypt.
The Barbanr States extend from lat. 21* (Fezzan) to 37'* 16' N. (Biserta,
in Tunis), and from Ion. 26* E. (Oasis of Siwah) to C. Nun, in Marocco,
11" W. They thus occupy over 16" of lat. and d&* of Ion. The length
from E. to W. along the 30th parallel is about 1785 nL, while the breadth
varies from 200 m. on the I^gyptian frontier to 750 m. in Tripoli and
Fezzan. The coast line is estimated at 2600 m. The city of Marocco, on
the central parallel, is in the same lat. as Jerusalem, Ispahan, Lahtr,
Nanking, and the head of the 6. of CalifoiTda.
Area and Population. — ^The aggregate area is ronghly estimated at
940,700 sq. m., and the population at 11,664,218. The whole area is
about seven times that of the British Isles, while the population
does not exceed one-third of ours. The area and population of the
different states are as follows : —
States.
Tripoli, including Barca and Fezzan,
Tunis,
Algeria (1867), ....
Marocco,
Area in
English sq. m.
356,820
47,860
267,600
268,920
Population.
1,150,000
2,000,000
2,414.218
6.000,000
Political DIvlBlons. — The Barbary States are four in number—
1. Tripoli, in the E., including the province Barca,* and the laige
oasis of Fezzan in the Desert, termed a heyalic, and subject to the
Ottoman Porte. 2. Tunis, N.W. of Tripoli, also a beyalic of the
Turkish empire. 3. Algeria, W. of Tunis, a colonial possession of
France since 1842, and divided into three provinces— Goustantine^
Alters, and Oran — but by the natives into the Tell or " country of
grain crops," and the Beled-el-Jered or "land of dates;" and, 4.
The empire of Marocco, W. of Algeria, consisting of the kingdoms
Marocco and Fez, lying between the Atlantic and Mt. Atlas, and the
districts Sus, Draha, Tafilelt, and S^*elmessa» lying to the S. and 2L
of that range.
Tripoli.— Tripoli 30, Dema 6, Bengazi 7 (N. coast), Mounonkll
(oasis of Fezzan).
Tunis.— Tunis, 150, Cabes 30, Eairwan 50 n.y Biserta 10 (ooutV
Algeria. — Algiers 53, Constantine 35 n«» * Bona 12, Ona 8^-
Tlemezen 14 n. (N. coast).
Marocco.— Marocco 80 (Tensift), Fei 80, MekiMs 7^.n*
* Barca now forms a soj^amte rtate^ tt^
BAKBAHV STATES. 4GS
Tatuan 18, Ceuta 8, Tangior 10 (K. coast), Salee \i, HaWtt 40,
Mogador 20 (W, coast), Tarocknt 21, Tedsi IB (Sas), Tatta 10
(Draha), Tafilelt 10 (Zaimbi).
is iMagna.
.fled ; it has now tbe appstmiDce of a European city, is th<
ihe Governor- General of Algeria and of man j foreign consuls,
a fortified city taiien by tbe French in 1847, ia cow a Hour.
DauTlptivB Fotas.-~TiipaU, properly TcipoIiB, derlvei
the three ancient Carthageuiui cities— Sabrata, Oea, and
It carries on an eitenaive cominerce irith Central Africa dj means oi
caravaiiB. M onrzoiib, in an oasis of the Sahara, is the la.'!t 9t,age for ob-
taining water and provisions on the caiavan-ronte from Tripoli to Bomon.
Tnnia is the most populous city in Barbsry, and, with the exception of
Alexandria, the most commercial in Africa. It has extensive manufar:-
torea of linen and woollen cloths, marocco leather, and various celebrated
essences. About ten m. to the H.E. are the nilna of ancient Carthage,
once the proud rival of Eome. Kairwan, a larve city in a aandv plain at
a considenible distance ttmn the coast, was the first seat of Baracenic
ompi™ io Barbary : it contains the finest mosque in Africa, and is one of
&» holy cities of the Mohammedans. Biurta, a fortified sesport town,
and the moat northern in Africa- Algiers, cap. of the French dominions
In Afiica, was seized by the French in 183(1, since which it has been
sti'ongly fortified ; ■* ' '•
residence of the G<
ConstaaWne, a . .
iBhing place, with manufactures of saddlery and other
Oina, cap. of the most western province of Algeria, was built by the
Spamatds, and Is surrounded by itrong walls and ditches. Uaiocco,
cap. of the empire, situated in the centre of an immense plain whidi
extendi to the toot of the Atlas ran)(e, is ilt-built, filthy, and spacious ;
the walls of the city are six miles in ciicumferunce, but many lai^a Gelds
and open spaces strewed with ruins are enclosed within this area. Tta,
once the cap. of a poweriul independent kingdom, and the finest city in
weatOTn Borhary ; though now reduced to tJie rank of a provincial cap., it
remains the holy city of the empire, and one of the three residencen of
the Sultan. It is the principal seatof the mannfactare of marocco leather,
which is prepared here in great perfection. Mekinei, one of the hand-
lomest towns of Marocco, contains an imperial palace of great beantv and
extant. Tetoon was ceded to Spain at thetlose of the recent ^var with
Marocco. Centa, built on a hill which woa known to the ancients as one
of the Pillara of Hercules, has belonged to Spain since 1040. Tangier, a
strongly fortified towii, was coiled by the Portuguese to the British in
l(!lj2, who retained possession of it for 22 years. Bales, formerly noted
for its piracy, is now sinking into decay. Babatt, formerly the centre of
, the Bnropean trade with Marocco, eiporta wool and com, and has maiin-
nrea of carpels. Jlogadw, the principal seaport of Marocco, main-
» regular comnjunioation with Southern Europe. Tatta, a great
)t for the transit trade between Marocco and Central Africa. Tafilelt,
of a district in the S.G., which it uaed as n phioa of bauishment tor
lilitical offenders.
Capes, iBlands, Oulfa. Lakes, and Str<s.— See under "Africa.''
^ earbee and Uonatain*.— The westm-n half of the conntrj-, tTmn
' ns In the Ailer*!" — >"«i«ta ot an elevated plateau sur-
i» lliren i ' ••-•, which run parallel to the
t"^ ■'■"W, tiie mwt Bontherlj
- oulniiuatinK in Jebel
464 POLITICAL OEOGRAPHY.
^kliltsin, in Marocco, 11,400 ft. high. In Algeria the highest elevap
tion does not exceed 7700 ft., and in Tunis 4400 ft From Tunis to
the Egyptian frontier the country is low and level, save that gentle
eminences extending in an easterly direction attain in the W. of
Tripoli a height of (U)out 2000 ft. Between the Atlas range and the
Sahara there is a deep depression, to a large extent occupied with
salt marshes. The coast region, extending from the 6. of Gabes to
the G. of Sidra, is very low and sandy, with few harbours ; but fur-
ther east, the plateau of Barca attains a moderate elevation. .
Rivers. — Owing to the proximity of the Atlas range, on the one
hand to the Mediterranean and on the other to the Great Desert,
the rivers of Barbary are all comparatively smalL The greater num-
ber of them are little more than winter torrents, the channels of
which are dry during summer ; while those which flow southward
soon lose themselves in the sands of the Sahara, or terminate in salt
lakes. The only rivers deserving notice are the following : — Med-
jerda, in Tunis, flows N.E. 200 m., and empties itself into the G. of
Tunis. The Shelif, flows N. through Algeria into the Mediterranean.
The Mulwiah, the principal river of Barbary, flows N.K through
Marocco into the G. of Melilah. The Omer Begh and Tensift, flow
W. through Marocco into the Atlantic.
Climate. — Taking the country as a whole, the climate must be
regarded as peculiarly temperate and salubrious. This is especially
the case in the coast region between the Atlas ran^ and the Mediter-
ranean, where the sea-breezes are cool and refreshing. South of the
Atlas the climate is tropical and the heat intense. Here it scarcely
ever rains between March and September, but rain is frequent in
winter. North of Mt. Atlas the thermometer rarely falls below 40'
Fah. in winter, or rises beyond 85** in summer. In Tunis the mean
annual temp, is 68". 7 ; wint«r, 55".76 ; and summer, 83". The coast
region of Algeria is well adapted to Europeans. Here the summer
heat is great, and may be called excessive, the thermometer ranging
between 74** and 104** ; but, owing to the sea-breezes, even this heat
is endurable. The winter temp, at Algiers is from 54** to 65**, and it
very seldom reaches the freezing point.
Minerals. — The prevailing mineral in Barbary is salt, which seems
to pervade the whole soil, and of which there are innumerable pits,
rocKS, and springs. Saltpetre is extracted in great quantities ; but
hitherto coal has not been found in any of the states. In Marocco
are found gold, silver, antimony, iron, copper, lead, and tin, but the
T)recious metals are confined to the province Sus. In Tunis, copper,
lead, and silver abound, and a quicKsilver mine is wrought at Porto-
Farina. Iron, copper, and lead are abundant in Algeria, especially
in the province Oran, where cinnabar or sulphuret of mercury is ob-
tained m small quantities, besides extensive mines of nitre, salt, tale,
and potters' clay ; while amethysts of great size and beauty are found
in the recesses of the mountains. The Atlas range contfuns copper,
iron, lead, antimony, and rock-salt ; but few mines are WTOU|^t to
advantage.
I
I
BARnAUV STATES. 4G3
Botany.— The whole of Barbary is included within Schouw's third
lAyto-geogi'aphic or Mediterranean Jtegion. (See p. 82.)
The northBrn slopea of Mt. Atlas are clothed with dense forests of pine,
oak, cork, white poplar, xnd wild olives. On the southern slope the
tower ranges are covered with palm-trees, especially the date-pHlin, of
which this is the true native region, whence it is denominated by the
natives Seltd-it-Jered, or " land of daUa ; " higher up grow gum-trees,
■Imonda, olives, kc. ; while on the taWe-lands are found pears, apples,
cherries, and other Europ^a fruits. The lotus and cassoh are indigen-
ons in Tripoli. Tlie principal cultivated plants are wheat, maiie, barley,
millet, soighum, tobacco, cotton, indigo, sugar-cane, henna, and saflron ;
with olives, dates, grapes, and the fruita of Southern Europe. Tlie soil
in the valleys has been always celebrated for its fertility, and in souie
places yields three crops of com in the year ; but so little la agricidture
understood that large crops of com are sometimes allowed to remain uii-
reaped, while at other times many of the inhabitants die of famine.
Zoology.^ The animal kingdom comprises most of the species
found in the rest of Africa, except the hipjiopotamiis, rhinoceros,
giraffe, zebra, and several species of monkeys. (See under "Africa,"
.n. 1».)
The principal mammals are the Barbary ape, little baboon, panther,
Wni, jackal, genet Barbary squirrel, Barbary mouse, Barbary antelope,
.BaroccD antetope, bearded sheep, the buhalis (a species of hnflalo), wild-
boar, and tlie Egyptian .jerboa. The Atlas Uoiintaics arc infested by
Urge Hercs lions, and abound in antelopes, monkeys, and porcnpines.
In general the Mammalia differ widely from those of Europe ; white, in
legard to Shilt, besides several found in Southern Europe, Barhary pos-
Msses numerous species not occurring in any part of the nortliern con-
Unent. Tlie /^plSsicomprise thechanieleon and leathery tnrtle. Among
JMnuiHc Animali may be mentioned the horse, camel, dromedary, ass,
mule, buflalo, ox, merino sheep, and goats. The merino sheep is a
native of Algeria, The goats of Marocco are highly valued, as it is from
their skins that the famous "marocco leatber'Ms made. The Barbary
horses are superb animals, vieing with the Arabian in beauty of form,
though not, perhaps, in lieetness. The dromedary is the most general
beast of bniden.
Bthuography'. — Long before recorded history — perhaps even before
the full formation of their distinctive languages — that family of man-
kind from which the Semitic tribes liave come ponred forth its
hordes from Asia over the northern portion of Africa. Of these, one
tribe, the Berbers, with the tenacity of the Semitic stock, has held
possession of the valleys of the Atlss ander all the successive waves
ofconcjaest which have passed over Northern Africa. The colonics
and conquests of the PuDrnicianB, the Romans, the Byzantines, the
Vandals, and the Arabs, have not destroyed or abaorhed this toagh
and warlike people. Pressed further to the south by the fierce at-
taclls of the Arabs, in tlie first half of the eleventh centiiry, they
could not he driven from the desert; and they now hold a larger
exteot of territory than is occupied by any otiipr race on Africau
u K>it, From the Atlantic Ocean, on the west, their tribes extend to
■'Qie borders of E}(ypt on the east, and from the Atlas chain on the
466 POLITICAL GEOORAPHY.
Korth over the oases of the Great Desert to the region of the NigcT
and Soudan on the south. *
Language and Religion, — The Berber language — ^in some respects a
connecting-link between the Semitic and Atrican families — is a direct
descendant from the ancient Libyan ; and the antique bi-lingnal rock-in-
scriptions in Northern Africa show that not only the idioms, out many of
the letters used by the Numidians, are still employed by the modem Ber*
bers. Tlieir other letters are Arabic. The Moors and Arabs speak a
dialect of Arabic called the Mongrebin, or Moorish Arabic. Islamlsm is
the sole religion erf the Berbers, Moors, Turks, and Arabs. The negroes,
who are very numerous, and mostly slaves, are generally pagans, Soudan
being their native country.
Goyemment, ftc. — Marocco is an empire ruled over by a sultan,
who is more despotic than is usual in Mohammedan countries. It
consists of the two kingdoms, Marocco and Fez, and four territories,
above mentioned. The army consists of about 20,000 men, besides
a sort of militia, formed of negro slaves, numbering about 80,000
more. The navy, at one time very formidable to European mer-
chantmen, is now insignificant. Algeria has been a French colony
since 1842, though its subjugation commenced 12 years earlier.
The administration is chiefly military, but in the larger towns a
civil system has been established. As yet the efforts of the French
to render this a prosperous colony have b^n, on the whole, unsuc-
cessful, and it may bo questioned whether they will not ere long
have to abandon it. Tunis and Tripoli form two states of the Otto-
man empire. The former is nearly independent, the government
being vested in the Bev, who holds his power by hereditaiy right.
The governor of Tripoli holds the title, rank, and authority of a
pasha of Turkey.
Industry and Commerce.— Barbary is, next to Egypt, the most
favoured and fertile country in Africa, producing com and wine in
abundance, together with tropical fruits of every description — the
latter forming an important article of commerce. Great quantities
of grain and olives are produced on the northern slope of the Atlas
range, while the southern is celebrated far and wide as the land of
dates.
The Berbers, or original inhabitants of the country, and who now are
chiefly confined to the mountains and the Sahara, cultivate the soil with
great industry. The Kabyls, or Berber tribes of the mountains, are well
versed in agriculture and in the manufacture of arms and gunpowder.
The Berbers also form the great media of commerce, their caravans con-
stantly plying between the coast region and Soudan through the Sahara.
The Arabs, on the contrary, are a nomadic people, owning large flocks of
sheep, goats, camels, and horses. Marocco leatner is made in large quan-
tities in the towns, as also woollen and cotton fabrics. Silk and woollen
stuffs are made in Tunis : saddlery, carpets, Fez-caps, and earthenwares
in Marocco. The principal exports of the country are grain, fruits, wool,
cattle, ivory, ostrich feathers, madder, saddlery, and marocco leather;
also horses (here called barbs), indigo, wax, tin, and coral.
* 'The Races of the Old World,' by Charles L. Brace. London, 1863; pp.
in, 178.
SAB ABA, OR THE GREAT DESERT.
Boundaries- — N., Barbary Statea ; W., tlie Atlantic Ocean ;
b'G., Seuegambia and Soudan ; E., the Egyptian territories.
The Sahara extends from lat. 18° to BS* N., and from Ioq. 17° W. to
_.ft)° E. Its length from Cape Blanco on the W. to tha SOth lueridiao on
I flie K is about 3000 tn. ; its breadth variea rconi lODO to 1200 m. ; nhlls
"iB Area is probahly abont 2,436,510 bo. m., or twenty tunas the urea of
le Britieh lalaj ; whila its populatloti ia variously Bstimateii from
■ *,DOO,000 to 4,000,000. Its central point (tat. 24J°, Ion. 10° K) is occu-
[ ried by a table-land 4000 ft. in elevation, and lies on tha aamB parallel as
• issonan, Karachi, Murshidabad, Amoy, La Paz in Lower Calilumia, and
e. Sable in Florida.
Snr&oB. — The Sahem, is the most eitenaiTe desert on the earth's
wrTace. For hundreds of miles the eye only meets with bore sands
in fiats and hillocks, or with naked, rocky tracts, destitute of vege-
tation, and seldom exhibiting any of the forms of animal life.
Till the recent discoveries of Barth and other travellers, very erroneous
notions prevailed respecting the conliguration of this region. It waa re-
presented aa a monotonous, low-lying plain, covered almost throughout
with loose sand. It is now ascertained to be an immense table-land, with
■n BVemgie elevation of from 1000 to 1500 fL, and aurmomited ii
parts, espeoially in tlie central and easl
which not nnfrequently attain to a heig
only BitensivB low ground in any way connected with the desert ia that
whioh separates it from Maro^co, Algiers, and Tunis, and which estenda
thim the Q- of Cabes to the confluence of the Draha with the Atlantic —
a diafancfl of about 1400 ni. This immense valley, covered witb salt
lakes and rivers flowing towards them, attains no greater elevation than
fraro GOO to lODO ft ; Lake Tchad, also, in tha centra of the continent
and at the opposite frontier of the desert, is only S30 f L above tha level
of the sea. the niinor plateaui which snrinourit the great table-Isnd,
and which must have stood out aa islands when the vast region around
them formed the bed of ttie ocean, run in the same direction as Mt Atlas
in Barbaiy, and the Kong Mountains m Nigritia This, it will be ob-
aervsd, ia the direction of the greatest breaillh of tlie continent, and of
the great mountain-systems of Asta and Europe.
me OaaeB. — The Sahara also abannds in low fertile tmcta named
oa^a, which are watered by perennial sprinfis, and which not unfi'e-
ritly snpport a numerous popolation. In general, they consist of
deep depressions which separate the lofty plateaux, and are there-
fore more numerous in the centre and east than in the nest of the
doserti The following are the principal oases : —
Eartkrn Sahaha.— GAadanwM 7, S.W. of Tripoli ; Feziait, S.E.
of Tripoli, cap- Monrzouk (see under " Tripoli ') ; Sitca/i, in the
Libyan Desert, cap. Siwah-el-Kebir; TibeMi, S.E. of Fczzan ; BUma,
midway bet Feizan and Late Tchad ; Air or Atbeii, W- of Bilmn,
uap. Agades; Bhnt, W. of Fezxan.
4000 to im'ii. The
V.
468 POUTICAL OEOORAPHY.
Western Sahara. — Tuat, midway bet Cape Nun and Monr-
zouk, principal towns Agablv and Insalah; Hahirah, S.E. of Tuat;
Ghialata, S.AV. of Tuat; i'oudeni, S.E. of Gualata, cap. Teleg;
Aroioan, midway bet Toudeni and Timbuctn.
Descriptive Votes. — Ohadames. with about 3000 inhabitants, lies on
the caravan route from Tunis and Tripoli to Timbuctu. This handftil of
T)eoi>le, secluded from the world, consists of two parties, as distinct and
nostile as the rival factions of the Italian cities in the middle ages. They
never intermarry. They occupy sepamte apartments, and never pass
from the one to the other if it can possibly be avoided ; but the marlcet-
place is common ground, together with the house of the native governor,
and they unite against a common foe. The only explanation they can
give of this remarkable feud is : "The Ben Weleed and the Ben Wezeet
are people of Ghadames who have quarrelled from time immemorial ; it
was the will of God they should be divided, and who shall resist His
will ? " Agades has a population of 7000, and some leather manufac-
tures : it is one of the most commercial entrepots of Central Africa, being
on the caravan route from Mourzouk to Sokoto. This oasis is reported
to be 11 days* journey in extent from N. to S., and to be fruitful and
well cultivated, producing maize, vegetables, and senna. Agably, aboat
700 m. N.W. of Timbuctu : here meet the caravan routes from Marocco
and Tripoli, and afterwards diverge to Senegambia and Timbuctu : it has
trade in grain, cattle, and sheep. There are two great caravan routes
across the desert^one from Marocco to Timbuctu, by Tuat ; and the
other from Mourzouk to Agades, where the routes diverge westward to
Timbnctu, and southward to Sokoto on the Niger. Caravans travel at
the rate of 3 m. an hour for 6 hours dailv, and generally require about 47
days from Mourzouk to Agades, including long rests at the principal
wells.
CUxnate and Natural Products. — Notwithstanding the extreme
heat, which is almost insupportable by day, there is often great cold at
night, and ice is frequently formed, owing to the excessive radiation.
Rain falls in torrents at very distant intervals, in some places not oftener
than once in ten or twenty years, though there are not wanting evidences
of its having been at one time more frequent. Even dew is unknown,
owing to the ascending currents of heated air, which dissolve the vapours
and disperse the passing clouds. The desert is also visited by a burning
wind from the S. and E. called the n'ntoom, which generally lasts ten or
twelve hours, when the air is impregnated with fine sand, which almost
suffocates the traveller ; and the drought is so great as to dry up the
water contained in the skins carried by the camels.
The only valuable mineral found in the desert is salt, vast rocks of
which occur in its W. division. Palm-trees grow on the borders of the
Sahara ; and the chief products of the oases are dates, gum, com, and
some vegetables. These require constant irrigation, — water being usually
found by digging a few feet below the surface. The fauna of the Sahara
is as deficient as its flora ; the lion, panther, hyena, and some other wild
animals, roam over the outskirts ; the ostrich and gazelle penetrate far-
ther into the interior; the land-tortoise is common in the S., where it
attains to a great size ; and lizards and serpents are numerous. The only
beast of burden is the camel.
Etlmograpliy. — Two nations of Berber origin, but divided into
hooB in the F.., and the Tawareks iii tha W. (sue undur '• Africa,'
17). TheiiiIiBbtta.iitaof Ghmiames form a. aubdiTiHion of the T n
d tl 1
I Barter language— Tibboo, TawareE, and Ghaiiami— a p k n
the Berber tribes ; but Arabi.:, the language of tha Koran a '
which is indispensable to African commerce, is also wid ly p
(sue under " Barbary '').
SENEOASIiilA.
BoTmdaries.-^N., the Sahara ; W., the Atlantic ; S., Liberia
and Ujipar Guinea ; E., Soudan or Nigritia.
Including the British settlement of Sierra Leon^, this ill-Jafliied coun-
SBxUnds from Int. 7° Sff to 17° N,, and from Ion. T to 17° 30' W.
B term Senegamhia properly sieui^Es the region lying between the
lower courses of the rivers Senegaf and Gambia ; but it is aow under,
iitood to embrace a considerably iarger entsnt of country— viz., from tliB
former rirer southward to Sherboro' Island and the independent colony
of Liberia, while eastward it eitends to the aonrces of the Senegal river,
sear the Tth west meridian. Bsthurat, the csp. of British Senegambio,
near the central parallel, is in the same lat. as the southern shon of I«ke
Tchad, Sennir, Mocha, Madraa, Udong, and St Salvador in Central
AxMi and Foptilatltm. — The area, including Sierra Leon^, is prob-
ably about 250,000 so. m., or more than twice that of the British
Isles, while the population may amount to 13,000,000; but there
are no reliable data to enable us to apeak with precision of the
native states. The British posseaaions of Gambia and Sierra Leon^
alone embrace an area of 439 eq. m., and a population, in 1871, of
52,871 {p. »i). The French possess an area of 250,U00 aq. m., and
II population, in 1872, of 607,398; and the Portugueso an area of
only 28 sq. m., and a population of 8500. The native states ai'e
larve and poptilons, Bomloo alone being eatmiated to contain a
Dimion and a half of inhal>itauts.
Bnibca and MountalnB. — The maritime
very low and level, but the interior and east
oue. The Fooladoo monntaina, in the N.E , ^
thB Senegal am! Niger, while the Tengai mountains, in the S.E.,
form the watar-parting between the Gambia and the Bio Grande.
The eleTStion of these rangei is unknown, but does not exceed the
limit of trees.
^Utloal SlTlslmB. — Besides tha settlements of the British,
French, and Portuguese, aitnated on the coast, and nn the rivers
~ ~ ~ ' nd Jeba, tiiera is a ^eat number of small oatiTo
470 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
states, peopled by tribes 'belonging to three great nations— viz., the
Foolahs in the N. ; the Jaloofs in the centre ; and the Mandingoes
in the S.
Native Seneqambia. — Sedo 6 (Guiloom, affi. Senegal), Bolibani
3, Bambouk n. (Falem^), Timbo 9 (Ba-Fing), Wameo n. (Gambia),
Kamalia, Kemmoo (Voulima).
British Sbnegambia and Sierra Leone. — Bathurst 7 (Gam-
bia), Free Town 18 (Rokelle), Regent's Town (coast).
French Senegambia. — St Louis 16 (Senegal), Ft. Goree (W.
coast).
Portuguese Senegambia. — Bissao 8 (Jeba, an arm of Rio
Grande).
Descriptive Kotes. — Sedo, cap. of Footatoro, on the Guiloom, in a
beautiful fertile country, has 6000 inhabitants. Bulibani, cap. of Bon-
doo, one of the most powerful states in Senegambia. nmob, cap. of
Footajallon, a place of considerable antiquity, near the head- waters of
the Senegal wameo, cap. of the principal Jaloof state, which contains
vast forests of gum-trees, and produces abundance of ivory, skins, and
honey. Kamalia, cap. of Handing, and Kemmoo, cap. of Eaarta, the
chief towns of the two principal states of the Mandingoes in Senegambia.
Bathurst, a seaport town and cap. of the British colony of Senegambia,
on the island of St Mary, at the mouth of the River Gambia, exports
gum, ivory, wax, hides, gold, tortoise-shell, rice, cotton, teak, palm-oil,
and native cloths. The colony Ls under the jurisdiction of Sierra Leone,
and is considered to be the healthiest settlement in Western Africa.
Pree Town, cap. of the British colonial settlement of Sierra Leon^, in
the estuary of the Rokelle, was founded in 1787, with a view of suppress-
ing the slave-trade in Western Africa. Begent's Town, a small settle-
ment of liberated Africans, established in 1813. Christianity was intro-
duced here by a poor German mechanic, named Johnson, wiio had left
England for the colony in 1812, and whose devoted labours have been
crowned with remarkable success. In 1855, the population, numbering
several thousands, were almost entirely Christians. St Louis, cap. of
the French possessions, on an island at the mouth of the Senegal river,
is the entrep5t of their trade, the principal article of which is gum.
Bissao, an island and seaport town at the mouth of the Jeba, and the
great stronghold of the Portuguese slave-trade.
Climate. — The climate of Senegambia is humid and extremely
unhealthy for Europeans — the heat being intense, especially abont
the end of the dry season. The HarmaUan^ or dry hot wind from
the Sahara, destroys vegetation, and cracks all articles made of wood
as if they were exposed to the action of fire ; but it arrests the pro-
gress of disease, and banishes the deadly fevers that prevail in the
wet season, which extends from June to October. The climate of
Sierra Leone is subject to periodical epidemics, the season from May
to November being specially pestilential
Products. — Bambouk is celebrated for its rich gold-mines. The
greater part of the mountains are mainly composed of ironstone, and
the natives are acquainted with the art of extracting the metaL
SENEGA.MMA. 471
LS of the irnre usefal treea are tlie niaguificeut liaobub or bread-
frnit tne'i the shea or l)utt«r tree ; the miiuosn, from which the guni'
Senega! Is obtained, and which forma the moat iniportant export of the
country, together with teak, mahogany wood, and palni, num which
^m-oll is prodnired. The coffee plant hss been Inti-cdaced by the
Britiah at Sierra LeonJ, and the pDrtuBuese have introduced the vine,
Bg, lemon, and citron ; and the principal cultivated ptantji comprise
maize, rice, millet, yams, bananas, indipi, and cotton. The elephant,
hippopotamna, lion, leopard, panther, atriged hyena, buffalo, wild-boaj,
deer, antelope, and monkeys, arc the principal wild animals, Alligatora
Avquent the rivers, hoaa the marshes, and turtles the islands. Locusta,
bees, and ants are extremely numerous.
EUmography. — Senepmbia conbiiua tbree prominent tribes, two
of wbich me of the deepest interest to the ethnologist — viz., the
FdUatab, in the N. ; the Manitingoca, in the 3. ; and the Jaloofs or
Jolofs in the centre. These tnbea, however, are not conRned to
Senegsnibia, but are spread over Weatarn Souilan and Upper
Guinea.
The FaUtaha, or Foolaha, deserve tlia moat special attention, as being
not only the most widely spread, hut also as being greatly superior in
intelligoncB and civilisation to all the other intertropical tribeB of Africa,
unless, indeed, we eicept the Mpongwe or Lower Guinea. The F^tatnh
are described by travelfera aa a people conapiciious for their noble hear-
' , their Sne, regular, and apparently Aryan features, and a lematkahlv
it colour cf complexion, resembling the rich brown of the Spaniarda
or PortnjtuBSB. They lead a nomadic life, and are engaged in manufac-
ttms and commerce. " This people," says Brace, in his ' Races of the
Old World,' ■' are intereating to the atudent of history, as having enactei!,
within this century, on the plains of Africa, something of the part played
■o formidably by the Arabians iu Asia under Mohammed. Uniting
under the fanatical leadership of a religious refoni'er, they have founded
a Mohammedan empire the most powerful in the interior of Africa, em-
bracing a territory eqnal in extent to a tenth of the cuntinent, and as
large u a quarter of Europe. It embraces, besides the greater part of
Sanegambia, the kingiloms of Sokoto, Adamawa, Gando, Massina, anii
Ihe lower basin of the Banue or Chadda. Aa the preachers of Islamiam,
they have undoubtedly advanced the progress of civilisation among the
DBgan tribes of Africa ; for MohaTumedanism restrains Vi a certain dc^ee
hmtol passions, does away wilh human EacriHces, cultivates learning,
and su rati tates the sense of personal dignity and the belief in an Ini-
motable, heneflcont Proytdenee, with the feeling of a membership in a
vast community of behevers, for the low habits, the superstitions beliefs,
sod isolated lelflshnesa, of pagan tribes. Though the moat intelligent
of African tribes, they have as yet no native alphabet, and make use of
the Arabic far writing. They have made some progress in domestic
manufactures, are skilful in the care of cattle, and have never partici-
pated in the foreign slave.trade. It is luipossihlc as yet to trace their
origin. Some maintain that they are a Malay race ; others, with more
protability, that they are of Egyptian or Eastern descent " " The Man-
ainsinia ore also a civilised race, thoi^h Inferior to the F^Uatah, — are of
. black colour, woolly hair, thick lipa. broad flat nose, and tall
iwenol frame. Their leading men can all read and write Arabic ;
~lcnjture is carefnlly puiaued by them ; they are expert in weavinij
l^t
472 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
and dyeing cloth, tanning leather, and working iron into yarions Infttra-
ments. In religion they are zealous Mohammedans, though a few adhere
to the old pagan belief. They have a tradition that their ancestors came
from Egypt ; and their language is said to haye a considerable similarity
to the Coptic." It is the most useful to traders along the coast, and is
characterised as copious and elegant.
The Jaloofs live principally in the deltas of the Gambia and Senegal.
They are mild, hospitable, and trustworthy, but are physically of a Tow
type. They live by the chase, and profess the Mohammedan faith ; and
their language greatly resembles the Mandingo, the type around which
all the other languages of Senegambia cluster. •
Commerce, &c. — The British, French, and Portuguese have effect-
ed numerous settlements on the coast, each of them having taken
possession of one of the three large rivers of the country for the
purposes of trade. The English are located on the Grambia and in
Sierra Leon^, their principal settlement on the Gambia being Bath-
urst, from which they export wax, hides, ivory, gold dust, rice, palm-
oil, timber, and ground nuts, to the United Kingdom. Their total
exports in 1869 amounted to £40,000, while their imports (from
Britain) amounted to £49,000, consisting mainly of cottons, arms,
tobacco, and iron. SieiTa Leon^ is the most important English
settlement on the west coast of Africa. The exports comprise
bennie seed, cocoa-nuts, ginger, ground nuts, gum*copal, hides, palm-
oil, and paJm kernels, kc; and the imports, ale, porter, apparel,
flour and biscuits, cotton and woollen goods, cutlery, earthenware
and glassware, guns and gunpowder, haberdashery, rum, wine, and
tobacco. In 1868 the exports to the United Kingdom amounted to
£81,000, and the imports from the United Kingdom to £230,000.
This commerce is conducted by steamers, four steamers per month
leaving the colony, and other four the United Kingdom. The
French have numerous forts and settlements along the Senegal,
their principal station being St Louis, at the mouth of the river.
The chief article of exportation is gum-Senegal, which oozes out of
the acacia-tree by cracks produced by the JaarmaUan, a hot wind
from the desert. It is chiefly used in printing calico, but is deemed
inferior to gum-Ai-abic. Some of the ivory obtained in the interior
is carried to the French settlements, but the greater part finds its
way to Bathurst. The Portuguese are limitea to Bissao and Jeba,
on the Rio Grande, their principal trade consisting of ivory, wax,
hides, and some gold, the greater part of which is shipped to Eng-
land, obtaining in return nrearms, powder, iron, tobacco, rum, and
cutlery. The great want of the European colonies in this region is,
to have a good road opened into the valley of the Niger*
SOUDAN, OR NIGRITIA.
Boundaries. — ^N., the Sahara ; W., Senegambia ; S., Guinea
and the unexplored countries of Central Africa ; E, Kordofan
r
Lat. 0° to 16= N. ; Ion. 10° W. to 28" E. Kuka, near the centre
of thia immense repon, on the S.W. ahore of Lake Tchad, lies
on the same parallel as Bathurst, Goadar, Aden, Madras, Cam-
bodia, and Leon, the cap. of Nicaragita.
1, but, according
i, probably amoniits to 1,213,000 sq. m., or
9 tlie area of the British Isles ; whila tha papulation is esti-
t 66,400,000, being less than double that of the United
I
indepeniient stutea, the principal of which, so far as known, and pro-
ceeding from W. to K, are the following ; —
BAMBAHSi Sogo 30, Sanaanding 10 (Joliha or Niger).
I.tTDAMAR.— Benowm n., Yarra (an ojft Senegal).
Beroo.— Walet 20 (GozsD Zair, of!. JoUba).
Masbiita.— Jsnneh 10, Isaca (Joliba).
TiMsncrn.— Timbuctu 20 n., Kabnra (Joliba).
BOHQU. — Bonasa IS, Kiotna 20 n., Wawa IS n. (Joliba).
YiOTiRi.— Yaouri (Joliba), Tabra 20, Koolfa IG (Mayarrow).
Ganho.— Knbha 40. Eyeo 20 (Jolibal, Fundah 30 n. (Chadda).
SoKOTO.— Sokoto 80 (Zirroie), Eano 30 (KomadugaJ,
Adamawa.— Tola or Jalo 10 (Dhadda).
MiNnAB.v,— Mora □., Delow 10 (Serbenel, ajl. Shsiy).
BoBsn,— Kuka 10, Angornu 30, New Bimi 10 (Lake Tchad).
Baqirmi.— Maaona (Shary, a;ffl. Lake Tchad).
EAyBM, — Maoo n., Berri (Lako Tchad).
Wadal *— Warra SO n. (Eat-ha, aJL Lake Fittrd).
DiBFUB.* — Eobhe B (an oasis in the desert).
DewriptiTB Hotes.— Sep), ran. of Upper Bambnrra, has numerous
mosques, and is the seat of considerable tmffic. Near this place Mungo
Park first saw the Niger, July 1796. " Hero," ha writes, " I saw with
ioflnlte pleaaure the areat object of my mission — the IcDg-aought-for
m^estic Niger, glittenng in the moming son, aa bmad as the Thames at
WestminHtar, aud flowing alowly to the eastward. I hastened to the
brink, and having drunk of the water, lifted up my fervent thanks iu
prayer to the Great Ruler of all thinga for having tbua far crowned my
endeavours with success." Bflnowm^a principal ear.ivau station en tha
rente bom Senegal to Timbuctu. Yarra: here Major Honghton, the
African triTOller, was killed in 1791. Talet, cap. of Beroo, on the cara-
van route from Benowin to Timbuctu. Janneh, cap. of Lower Bamharra,
a targe well-built town on an island in the Joliba, and the seat of a great
trade. It was viaiteil by CailliS, a French traveller, hi 1823. Timbuctn,
on the borders of the Great Desert, and tan m. N. of the Joliba, at its
great bend, is a considerable town three m. in circumference, with eight
mosques and 20,000 inhabitants. It is meanly boilt on a aandy plain,
'l (nd provisions have to be imported from Jenneh, 3D0 m. distant. To
• Now tributary tn EgFpt (sea p, 451).
2a
474 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Europeans this is the best-known place in Soudan, liaving been visited
by many travellers. It is the principal entrepdt for the trade between
Guinea, Sen^ambia, and Barbary. Kabara, the port of Timbncto.
BoTLSsa : here Park was murdered by the natives while descending the
river in a canoe, 1805. Rabba, a populous town, with an extcmsive tn^e in
slaves and ivoiy. Eano, cap. of the empire of the Fellatahs, has graat
trade, and manufactures of silk. Sokoto, the most i>opulou8 and im-
portant city in Central Africa, has great trade with Guinea and Tripoli ;
it has important manufactures of blue cloths, and was the scene of Clap-
perton*s death in 1827. Tola, near the Benu€ or Chadda, about S&O m.
above its junction with the Joliba. Dr Baikie was the first European
who visited this region ; he navigated the river for 400 m. above its con-
fluence with the Niger, and has thus opened a new highway for British
commerce, and rendered a service to civilisation which it would be diffi-
cult to over-estimate. Mora, cap. of Mandara, visited by Barth in his
recent travels around Lake Tchad. Kuka, the cap. of the powerful king-
dom of Bomu. Dr Barth states that it is 900 fL above the sea-level, and
50 ft. above that of the lake. Angomu, the most important town in
Bomu, on the margin of Lake Tchad, has a great weekly market, and is
the centre of an extensive trade in slaves, cotton, amber, coral, and
metals. Maoo, cap* of Kanem, a kingdom situated between Lake Tchad
and the Sahara, warra is described as large and populous, but it is
little known to Europeans. Kobbe, in an oasis of the eastom desert, is
a place of great resort for caravan merchants.
Sur&ce and Mountains. — Soudan may be provisionally divided
into three physical regions — viz., 1. The basin of the Niger as far
down as the town of Benin, in the same lat as the Kong Mountains ;
2. The district around Lake Tchad ; 3. The unexplored country be-
tween Lake Tchad and the Upper Nile.
The first of these, which lies between the Sahara and the Kong Moun-
tains (from 2000 to 3000 ft. above the sea), is for the most part a level
plain of moderate elevation, and exceedingly fertile. The country around
Lake Tchad is low and level, the surface of the lake being only 830 ft.
above the sea. It receives two large rivers, the Yeou and the Shary, and
contains many islands which are densely inhabited. Tlie basin of the
Chadda, between the lake and the delta of the Niger, is mountainous,
Mt Alantika attaining an elevation of 9000 ft., and Mt Mindif 6000 ft
The third region, embracing Wadai and Darfur, is very imperfectly
known to Europeans, but is said to be hilly and sterile, and to send its
drainage to Lake Fittrd, which lies east of Lake Tchad The Niger,
Joliba, or Quorra, is the great river of the country, and the second in
size in this continent. It rises in the Kong Mountains, due north of C.
Palmas, flows W., then N.E. as far as Timbuctu, on the southern border
of the Sahara, where it makes a great bend, and finally flows southwaids
to the G. of Guinea, on nearing which it forms a delta of 240 m. of coast.
Its total length, including windings, is about 3500 m. Nearly its entire
course has been traced by Park and Lander. It is navigable throughout
its entire length, though here and there the navigation is impud^ by
shoals ; but the great obstacle to its becoming the highway of commerce
in Western Africa is the extreme insalubrity of the climate.
Climate. — The climate of Western and Central Soudan consider-
ably resembles that of Senegambia and Guinea; that of Eastern
Soudan is still yeiy imperfectly known. It is eyerywhere tropica]
BOVDAS, OX KIGEITIA. 475
d iiiteiuiel}> hot, wIiQr the rear conaistE of tn-D Be^Bous — Ihe &ry oi
uat geasoil, and the Tainj.
The dry semon oontinues from March to June, wlisn the tlifirrooniBtor,
&t nud-daT, staads in the Hliodc at shout 107°, BUd evmt doniig the ui^it
rarelj siukb bolow 100°. The rainy Baason oommenoes in June ; violent
thnndBiEtonEB ragu, ttccDrnpauied br heavy rainB, elondy ireathoii and a
damp, BnlUT utmaBjihere. The rivers oveiion their
, — . -_r., ^ m^ , .___^
eoording
Ibteb tr»cta of tlie Eountry. The iubbii siuinal temperature of Tim^ractu
the mean annuat tempemtuie of Ceutial Boudan ii
■tnerali. — The only impDrtant mlueralf oocurring in Soadmi are
iron uid gold. The former in obtained from the ironBtone so pre-
valent in ull parts of the country. The usisvec poaaeaG the aj-t nj
extracting the metal, and of converting it into nmuerous lUiafiil im-
plementB. Qold-dnst is abnndont in the rivers, and forma, with
iron, tile principal article of export across the desert. The carnvana
brioff home, in exchan^ ealt from the Etatea of Barbary — a coin-
raodity whiri ia ertraniBlr deficient in all parte of CEntraJ A&icn.
Batany. — The botany of Ceotrail Africa is still very imperfoetlr
known, nulviiLslaudiiig the great uamlter of tisvellen that have
viutsd portions of it. In WsEtem Suadan there are no foreata,
properly ao called, bat luobabB, aheos, cotton-trees, and ned^ are
munBTonB in many parts.
Millet 16 esteneively cultivated, vhich, with muze and cassava, yiddE
two crops a-jear. In Central Boudas treeb ore ecarce, eioept tlie pahu-
OH, cocoa-nut, and iudia-nihber trees : but olhor products are ertreniely
various- Wheat Hnccefids in the niorr elevated tracts ; but the graina
generally imltjvated are nee, maize^ and millet. Cotton, tohacco, and
indigo art grown in lor^ quantities, as also ysms, sweet patMaefi, heane,
WBter.nielonfl, muak-meions, onioaa, plantalna^ and bananas. Fruit-trees
comprise figs, pomegtanHteE, limes, pupavs, ahes£. numgueB, &c : dste-
traee are cnronioii to the E. of Lnite Tchad.
ZoolOKr.— The hippopotamne and crocodile are found in ci'eat
nTonbeni in tbe Jolilra. Among other wild jtnimnU are the elephant,
piaffe, zebra, Iton, hyena, tiner-iiat, jackal, leopard, aulelapc,
buffalo. vild-Lorse, squirrel, nionkey. deer, and oatrich; while
the domestic animals compriae the carnal, goat, aheep, ass, horae. ax,
and poultry. Birds oialin great uumhersand in bonndlea varietiea ;
they are often remarkable for the beauty of their plumage, espeoially
the purognets and bnmming-btrdi. The whole region is ntucb in-
fested with noxious and veacnuona reptile^ and inaecis of conntleaa
species Bwami in all directiuuE,
EUmoenLPltr. — Soudan has been for ages immemorial the home
and headqnartera of the negro race : here the black man atiains bis
highest plrv^col development ; here bis mental and moral onubties
are moet easily Etadied ; and here a seen tbe eitent to which he has
lieen enabled to go in the march of civilisation, fritboat the teaching
and in&uence of more highly-bvoured racea (p. S-)-
As existing in his o«n heloved Soudan, the aegni is far from being fhiit
mifnnible-iooldug and disenerale ciEatute whidi be seems to be wlisu
476 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
long subjected to the bondage and inhuman treatment of the white man.
Though beyond doubt somewhat inferior to the Caucasian in mentsJ en-
dowments, he is fully his equal in stature and physical strength, while
even intellectually he is greatly superior to most of the natiye races of
the other continents, especially those of Australia and America. His
moral nature is indeed deeply degraded — a result, however, whidb is to
be attributed more to his religion and geographical position than to any
inherent ferocity of disposition. It is only by a stretch of language that
the people of Central Airica can be called savages ; for though they have
not mvented the art of writing, and nowhere possess a native alphabet,
or even the picture-writing of other semi-civilised nations, they have
nevertheless made considerable attainments in other useful arts. Agri-
culture, for example, is practised over the whole of Nigritia, though the
plough is an implement unknown in their husbandry. They irrigate the
land by artificial processes ; various species of grain are raised ; and in
some places the produce of the field is stored in large granaries raised on
poles as a secunty from vermin. Oxen are reared m great numbers ;
cotton is everywhere grown, and indigo of the finest quality is produced
in great abundance. Manufactures, though not numerous, are carried on
with considerable skill and activity— the most important, by far, being
that of narrow cotton-cloth, which is beautifully woven by the women,
and very tastefully dyed. They are able, moreover, to extract the iron
from its native ore, and to convert it into many useful implements ; and
they evince skill and taste in the various ornaments of gold which they
construct.
Langwjugt and Religion. — ^The languages and dialects are very numer-
ous, but, according to Dr Krapf, they may all be included in what he
calls the Nigro-Hamitic group, indicating that they are spoken by sudi
descendants of Ham as are located in the great basin of the Niger (p. 450).
The religion of Soudan, formerly a species of Fetishism, and consisting of
the worship of the crocodile, is now for the most part Mohamme£m.
The Fellatahs, Mandingoes, and other tribes who have established their
power in Western Soudan, are all Mohammedan, and have imposed their
creed on the heathen tribes they have subjugated (see under " Senegam-
bia "). Fetishism, however, is still widely prevalent in the eastern king-
doms. All the tribes, indeed, even when professing Islamism, retain the
ancient superstition of the fdiih, and not unfrequently practise the rite
of circumcision.
GUINEA.
The term Guinea is applied to an immense region of Western
Africa extending along both sides of the gulf of that name from
the eastern frontier of Sierra Leone to C. Negro. It consists
of two great divisions — viz., Upper Guinea in the N., between
the Kong Moimtains and the GT. of Guinea, or along the coast
from Sherboro* Island to C. Lopez (lat. 9° N.— 0° 33' S. ; Ion.
12° 40^ W.— 12° E.) ; and Lower Guinea in the S., extending
from the equator to C. Negro (lat. 15° 50' S.), having the Atlan-
tic Ocean on the W., and the unexplored regions of Central
H 477
^H Africa on the E. The equator, which separates Upper from
^H Lower Guinea, passes through C. Lopez, L. Victoria Nyanza,
^H the centre of the islands Sumatra auu Borneo, Quito, imd the
^P mouth of the Auiazou.
Area and Population. — Upper Guinea extends from W. to E.
about 1800 m. ; the breadth, friim the Kong Mountains to the G, of
Guinea, is about 300 m. ; while the probable area amounts to 300,000
aq. m. The length of Lower Guinea from N. to S. ia 1140 m. ; its
miuimmn breadth, about 300 m.j and its probable area, 312,500 sq.
»m. The population ia extremely uncei'tain. That of Upper Guinea
fs aetimatad at 10,000,000, and uf Lower Guinea at 9,067,600. Tha
total area ia therefore about S72,600 sq. m., or fire timea that of the
Irtish Islea ; wliile the papulation doea not probably ex{^eed that of
England.
BniCuie and Uoostalus. — The main feature in the physical geo-
Rmphy of Upper Guinea is the chain of the Eons Mountains (p. 440),
The cooBt rwion between this ran^ and the Atlantic, and extending
from Sierra Leone to the Bight of Biafra, is flat, low, and in nianj
jilaces marshy, especially on the Slave Coast, where there are nnmet-
ous salt lagoons. This plain, which ia ISOO m. lon^ and extends in-
land for about 80 m., is exceedingly fertile, inaalubrions, and covered
with lumriant giusa. The shores are low and sandy, and esposed
to the violenco of the wares. North of the Bight of Biafra and east
of the lovrer Niger the aarfaoe ia high and mountainous. Here the
Tolcania gronp of the Camaroons attain, in Albert Peak, an elevation
of 13,000 ft. South of these a moderately- elevated table-land, from
2000 to 6000 ft. high, skirtfl the coast throughout the entire length
of Lower Guinea.
PoUtloal DtvlBtDnB. — The political diviaions are fluctuating both
in nnmbor and extent, and little is known of the country beyond the
coast, which ia visited bv Europeans for the purposes of trade. Dif-
ferent names are applieS to different parts of the coast, depending
on the articles ohbiTned there for exportation, as the Grain Coast,
Qold Coast, Slave Coast, Irory Coast, &c. The British possessions
in Upper Guinea are chiefly Cape Coast Castle, Accra, Elmina,
Lagos, together with numerous forts intended for the promotion of
commerce and mitigating the inhnman traffic in slaves. The very
interesting colony of Liberia, on the Grain Coast, near the British
aettlement of Sierra Leone, was foanded by the Ajnerican Colonisa-
tion Society in 1822, as a retreat for the free negroes of the United
^_ States. Its area and popiUation are uncertain, but itt seaboard ei-
^K tends along the coast for about 600 m., and it probahly contains
^B about 258,000 inhabitants, of whom SOOO are immigrants.
^H Upper Gitihea.
^H LiBBBU.— Monrovia 9 (St Paul).
^H Gold Coast.— Cape Coast Castle 10 n., Elmina 10 n, (Cham&),
^B-Aoora & (coast).
478 POLITICAL GEOGRAPUY.
AsHANTEE. — Coomassie 18 (Bah), Assinie (Assino).
Dahomey.— Aboraey 30, Ardra 20 n. (Akini), Whyda 7 (cnast).
Yariba. — ^Abbeokuta 150 n. (coast), Egga, Eakunda (Niger).
Benin. — Benin 15, Bonny 20 (Niger), Lagos 6, Badagry (coast)
Eggarah. — Idda or Attab 8 (Niger).
Old Calabar. — Bongo, Duke Town 6 (Calabar).
Lower Guinea.
BiAFRA. — Biafra (Donga), Adjumba (Oaboon).
LoANGO. — Loango 15, Mayumba, Cabenda (coast).
Congo. — San Salvador 20 n., Punto de Lenha (Congo or Zaire).
Angola. — St Paul de Loanda 12 (coast).
Benguela. — San Felipe de Benguela 3 (coast).
Descriptive Kotes.— Monrovia, cap. of the free negro state above men-
tioned, has now a population of 9000. Cape Coast Castle : the English
first settled here in 1664, and the settlements now consist of numerous
forts along the coast, erected and maintained at an enormous expense,
for the purpose of mitigating the inhuman traffic in slaves. Elmina, in
common with all the other Dutch possessions on the Guinea coast, were
transferred to Britain in 1871» so that now the entire coast from Ion. 2°
40' W. to V 10' K is British. Coomassie, formerly cap. of Ashantee,
was destroyed by a British force under Sir Garnet Wolseley in 1874.
Assinie, a fort and factory belonging to France, which exports ]^alm-oil,
ivory, and gold-dust. Abomey, cap. of the kingdom of Dahomey, is a lar^e
populous town, much resorted to by merchants from all parts of Africa, m
quest of slaves, palm-oU, ivory, &c., aU. of which are exported at Whydali,
90 m. distant. The inhabitants of Dahomey are extremely barbarous ; hu-
man sacrifices are practised, and the most absolute and unmitigated tyranny
prevails. Clapperton visited Eyeo in December 1825, and gives an in-
teresting account of his journey. The king boasted that his wives, linked
hand in hand, would reach entirely across the kingdom. Egga, a large
populous city, 70 m. above the confluence of the Niger and Chadda.
Aenin was at one time the great emporium of the slave-trade in this
region : near it, Belzoni, the traveller, died in 1823. Abbeoknta, cap. of
the kingdom of Yariba, is a walled town, containing about 150,000 in-
habitants. The houses are built of mud, without windows, and contain
from 10 to 500 persons each. Captain Burton, who visited this town in
1862, represents it as a most wretched place, full of filth and misery of
every description. The Church Missionary Society has established a mis-
sion here, with a vigorous educational establishment. Lagos, ceded to Bri-
tain, in 1861, by the native king, together with Badagry, promises to be
an important centre of commerce and civilisation. Attan carries on ex-
tensive manufactures in cotton-cloth, tanning, and iron. Bongo is the cap.
of the kingdom of Old Calabar, but Bnke Town is the principal seat of
commerce. Loango is 10 m. in circumference, and contains about 15,000
inhabitants. Mayumba, a great slave-market on the coast. San Sal-
vador, a large town near the Congo or Zaire, and the residence of a chief
who claims supremacy over several petty states in the neighbourhood.
Punto de Lenha ; here are numerous rortuguese, English, and American
r
GUINEA. 479
uttoQ- factories. Tlie wild cotton, growing ia aburdancB, is of goal
qnalitr, and easily separated from tlie seed. 6t Fanl de Xoanda, cup. ai
the Portuguese dominions in Western Africa, has n good harbour, and
exports slaves and ivory; cotton is al^o exported, and its cultivation en-
couraged by the present governor. Ban Felipe de Beii|rQCla, a seaport
town, and the Portuguese cap. of Benguela. Its principal inhabitants
■re alaTB-dealera.
Climaite. — Tbo climate of Upper Guinea ia tropical, and not essen-
tially different from tliat of Sencgambia and Nigritia. The coasts
are law and imhcalthy ; the boat very great, uough less intense
than in the regions farther nortli.
The year ia divided into two seasons— a wet and a dry. In the differ-
ent parts o! Guinea the rainy season occuia at very different periods of
the year. In Uberia it lasts from November to May. Farther east, it
the Ashanlee country, it Bitflnds from May till November; while in Lowei
Guinea it lasts fram February to April During the wet season the quan-
tity of TMU that falls is prodigious. It ia usually followed by a short
fo^y seaaon, which ia extremely deleterions to hmnan life. At Cape
Coast Castle, which is considered tlie hottest part of the coast of U^ier
Guinea, the thennometer during the hottest month variea from 85° to 90°.
iioango, Congo, and Angola, in Lower Guinea, ara reckoned healtJiy ami
agreeable, as is also the interior of Bengueta ; but the maritiine regions
of the whole of htTKBT Guinea are very pestilential, owing to the constant
erolutioQ of snlphnretted hydrogen gas, given out by the mud and detritoa
home down by the rivers.
Fradncta. — The only imimrtant mineral production of Upper
Gainea ia golii, which abounds chiefly ia Aahantee, It is fonndnot
only In the form of dus^ but also ia large aoggets, by digging from
five to nine feet. Native antimony, used for tattooing, together
with nstron and salt, are found in Yariba and the Niger valley. In
l/owsr Guinea ara found gold, silver, copper, lead, sulpliur, petro-
ItRim, and near the town of Benguela is a rich, mine of saltpetre.
The vegetable productions da not dliler essentially from those of
Kigritiii and Senegambia, comprising cereals, yams, manioc, cotton-
plant, bananas, oil-palm, bntter-tree, sugar-oano, coffee, gum-trees,
teak, pepper, and mnger. Lower Guinea is the principal habitat of
the gorilla ape (which of all animals most nearly apprOKimates to the
hnman form), the chimpaniee, and the orang-outang.
EtIuiDKT&iih7.~The natives arc all of the nesro race, end generally
in a very iow stage of civiliBation. Their religion consists of various
fomia of paganism (cbiedy Fetishism), except tbe Mandingo tribes
in tbe extreme W., who are Mobamniedaiis, and certain tribes in
Angola and Benguela, who have embraced a spurious form of Chris-
tianity from the Portuguese colonists. Slavery and polygamy are
everywhere prevalent ; human sacrifices are jiractisod by several
tribes, and morality is at its lowest ebb.
Though presenting the degraded negro type, with which foreign coon-
tries ore familiar throiieh the slave-trade, yet they are not among the
lowest of mankind, as ootb agriculture and commerce are pursued to
some extent by them. Hie Veys, who are physically more h^y dfc
veloped than the neighbouring tribes of Upper Guinco, have acquired tbe
480 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
high distinction of having invented an alphabet, which shows great ori*
ginality. It consists of 200 signs, each of which represents, not a letter,
out a syllable. On the Gold and Slave Coasts the people live in square
houses two or three stories high. They cultivate the soil skilMly, and
have made considerable proficiency in the mechanical arts. The Fantia^
one of the tribes on the Gold Coast, have learned to read and write Eng-
lish, and many of them are employed by Europeans as teachers or as
clerks in business-houses. They are expert in manufactures, and excel
in the construction of musical instruments. Throughout Upper and
Lower Guinea various religious and national customs exist which bear a
wonderful analogy to those practised among the Jews, such as circum-
cision, bloody sacrifices, the observance of new moons, the rites of purifi-
cation, the division of time into seven days, and a belief in demoniacal
possession. The native population of Lower Guinea consists of various
tribes of n^roes, known collectively as the Bunda, who belong to the
great South African or Eafiir family — a race widely diflferent in many
respects from the negroes of Northern Africa (see under " Languages ").
Among the more remarkable of the Bunda nations are the Pangwes, who
are the only people of Western Aftica that have a circulating medium
and do not practise barter ; and the Mussorongo and Kabundas, who live
near the mouth of the Congo, and are described as skilful mariners and
shipbuilders. They have ouilt ships which they have sent as far as
Brazil, laden with slaves.
The Lanquaqes are numerous, but those in Upper Guinea may be
reduced to five distinct groups or families, which have few characteristics
in common. They are usually harsh and abrupt, but energetic and
direct. Their vocabulary is small, and the words have but few inflec-
tions ; while those of Lower Guinea all belong to one family, the dialects
of which are spoken throughout all Southern Africa, from ttie Atlantic to
the Indian Ocean, and from the equator to near Cape Colony. This
freat family, taking the Mpongwee, spoken between the Gal)oon and
aire, as a specimen, is remarkable for its beauty, elegance, and perfectly
philosophical arrangement, as well as for its almost indefinite expansibil-
ity. It diifers essentially and radically from all the languages N. of the
equator. The five families of languages spoken in Upper Guinea are the
MandingOy spoken from the Senegal river to Cape Mesurado (see under
"Senegambia"); the Orebo or Mandoo, from Cape Mesurado to St An-
drews, on the Grain Coast, and embracing the Grebo, Basa, Km, and
other dialects ; the Ktoahwa, along the Ivory Coast, presenting no trace-
able affinity with any other African tongue ; the PanM, including the
Ashanti, Dahomey, Popoe, and other dialects, extending eastward to
Badagry, where the Yanba commences— a language closely allied to the
Manddngo and Haussa, and extending inward a great way along the right
bank of the Niger ; the Waree, extending along the Bight of Benin, and
embracing the delta of the Niger.
Commercd and Maimfactiires. — ^The main articles exported from
the European settlements in Upper Guinea consist of gold (which is
obtained in small grains, and also fished up from the beds of the
streams), ivory, gum, palm-oil, and cotton. The skins of monkeys,
which are very numerous, form an important article of export to
England. The slave-trade, at one time the great staple of commerce
in Western Africa, is now rapidly decreasing. It is an interesting
fact that those settlements of Britain situated on the Gold Coast,
GUINEA. 4S1
and which were originally occupied as slave- faetorica, a.re now main-
tdnad na the moat efTectual check nn the Blave-trads, not to speak of
their being great centrea of oommeroe, civilisation, and Cbriatianity.
I'ha inflnencB of the Portameae, on the cantrary, in Lower Gninea,
h»3 sot been boDeGcial, mainly on accoant of the aupport which that
nation has always given to the slave-trade; and since its suppression
their Bettienients have decayed or dwindled away. The Gold Coast
is pre-eminently the region of the oil-ptilni, its product forming a
)>riDCipaI article of commerce. The British aettlementa on the
Guinea coast exported to the home cautitry, in 1869, goods to the
value a! £1,167,749, and imported from Britain various commodities
valued at £842,744. The internal commerce of the country, espe-
cially in Upper Guinea, is carried on at fairs and the native bazaar,
where the women expose for sale innumerable articles, inolnding pro-
visions, hardware, dry eooda, earthenware, &o. The provisions em-
brace cerealfl of every description, ground-nuts, dried rats, palm-oil,
shea or tree-biitter (one of the most considerable of the productions
of Africa), and cnndimenta of every description. The hardware is
usually represented hy European cutlery and glass beads ; and the
dry goods by raw ailks, broadcloths, and velvets. The natives
manufactore cloths of grass and varioua fibres. They also have at-
tained considerabla skill in the preparation of leather, which they
work into saddles, embroidered cushions, and many other articles.
The Aahantees excel in the construction of native musical instru-
ments. In most localities the great niediom of barter is cowries.
The Kiver-Syatam of Senegambla, Qiiinea, and Soudaa.
r^.BiLoi
. I ....Skuo.
Hi, (..FattaconA
I
Bokene...
BtPatO,...
..OookJi.k'""
..Punaa,n., YoLA
..Tub™, Koulfii.
'.'.VAtxr.
..DoBoo, Ephi
., Adjmnba.
Coaou Copalle, Blhe, o.
~ tiimei'.'.'.'.'.'.
rhta rlvrjr. W
la roi the mciat part ui
482 POLITICAL GEOGRAPUY,
COUNTRY OF THE HOTTENTOTS.
Boundaries. — N., Benguela ; W., the Atlantic ; S., the Orange
River, separating it from C. Colony; R, the Kakdiari Desert
and L. Ngami.
This conntry is but little known to Europeans, there beinp; few objects
of interest to attract travellers. It is re^urded as extendmg from the
Nourse river, in lat 17° 7', to the Gariep or Orange, lat. ^" 80' ; and
from C. Frio, Ion. 12°, to L. Nganii, Ion. 22* 50' E.
Area and Popniation. — ^These are exceedingly uncertain, the peopls
being barbarous, and the limits of their country being ill defin^ ;
but the former is now roughly estimated at 1,000,000 sq. m., and
the population at about 10,0C0,000, being only 10 persons to each
sq. m.
Surface and Mountains. — A mountain-range, the central portion
of which is known as the Omatako Berg, 8739 ft. in elevation, ex-
tends from N. to S. at a short distance from the Atlantic. The
coast region consists of a low, sandy, barren, and exceedingly dreary
strip of land, said to be wholly uninhabited. The interior is hilly or
mountainous, and occupied in part by pastoral and nomadic tribes,
who find sustenance for their nocks in the curious knots of tufted
grass whicli here attains to great luxuriance ; and in part by settled
nations, who cultivate the soil, which in the eastern part of the in-
terior is described as fertile. Rain, however, is of rare occurrence,
and the inhabitants suffer greatly for want of water.
Ethnographic Divisions. — As already indicated, this region is
peopled by a number of nations of different blood and language.
The principal of these are the Oyampos and Damaras, in the north,
from the 17th to the 25th degree of south latitude, and extending
eastward as far as Lake Ngami. They are branches of the great
Kaffir family which prevails so extensively in South A&ica. The
Ovampos are an agricultural people, skilled in the working of metals,
and are largely engaged in trade between the Portuguese colonies of
the coast and the Damaras, who live farther south. They are a su-
perior race, with black, short, crisped hair, and so fond of their coun-
try that the Portuguese traders do not consider them profitable
slaves, as they are found to sicken and die of home-sickness. The
world. Great hopes are entertained that it will become ere long the great commer-
cial route into the interior of the conthient. Unlifte the Zambezi, which Is not
navigable for sea-going ships, owing to the bar at its mouth, the Congo has no
bar— having 150 fathoms water at its mouth ; it is navigable for large ships for
nearly 100 miles (the slave-traders, indeed, report that it is navigable for 600
miles above the rapids); it floAvs through a rich coimtry, which produces iu
abundance palra-oil, ground-nuts, copper ore, gum, bees'-wax, lignum-vitae, and
two crops of excellent cotton annually ; and, above all, it is vastly nearer Eng-
land than the Zambezi, while the dangers of the Cape of Good Hope and the
liozambique Channel are avoided. ,
COUNTRY OF THE HOTTENTOTB. 483
DHrnaras or Ovapereros are a pastoral- nomadic people, end lire prin-
cipidly on ihejr nocka and herds. Thoagh related ta the Ovampos,
and speaking the same language, they are greatl; inrerior to the
latter m civiliaatioa. Thej have no cTear idea of a Supreme Being,
and snppDse a tree to hare been Uieir aneestor. They p---"- - -■-
Hottentots.
The HotteatotB occupy the country between the Tropic of Capricorn
(md the Oranse river, and from the Atlantic to the country of tlio £ec)m-
ana in the Kalahari Desert Formerly, indeed, their locality was to the
•onth of the OroDge River, bat the progress of tlie white race ia gradually
pushing them norUivrards, though they are Etill numerous in the uortliem
diatricta of Cape Colony. This people ara supposed to be the oldest in
Southern Africa, and are entirely dicerent from the Kaffir family Loth in
pJa/iique and language. They are an exceedinely degraded nice, of a
BOijpBr colour and low physical development, living side by aide with
darX races of noble form. They are greatly inferior,''for example, to U
pporeet of the BeelinaDa tribes, who raise, wherever possible, a few pump-
Kins, or keep a few goats ; while the Hottentots scom any culture of the
re of cattle, and prefer the wild life and the scanty gi
vermin (ants, spiders, snails, caterpillars, and dried locusts) which the
desert furnishes. The most remarkable of the Hottentot tribes are the
Bushmen, who are generally in the condition of the most savage barbar-
iam, living ia hushes or in holes in tlie ground ; they are the wild Indiana
of this continent, are great huntsmen and warriom, but are low in stature,
with sliglit limbs, prominent cheek-bones, depressed profile, protruding
lips. Hat noses, brown skin, and black woolly hair, which grows in JEolaterl
tufts. Their moral condition is exceedingly low, all family ties being dis-
regarded, havlne no personal names. Such of them as have any religion
are FeUshisls ; hut not a few have embraced Christianity. The Hotten-
tot language, properly bo called, is now nearly extinct but it belongs to
what is tenned the "Click family," cliarai5«rised by deep aspirated
gutturals, hnnh coosonanb!, and a multitude of ugly mimitahle clicks.
Their nouns have a double form for the plural, which so far assimilates
them to some Polynesian and North American tongues. Thett vocabuiari"
ii limited, and possesses certain affinities with the Coptic The dialect
spoken by the Ovanipoa and Damaras belong, on the other hand, to tie
great Kaffir family of tongues, which possess considerable melody and
Cciaion of eipression (see under " South Africa "). Tlie religion o( Christ
made considerable progress among these aavi^ tribes, the Wesleyans
Towns and VUlaeBB. — Properly speaking there are no towns [ but
villsf^ea or kraals, formed of a lal^nth of little conical hovels,
arth, or of a few poles covered with eking, are
cipal missionary stations are Onflurga, in the
Ovampo country ; Damaia and TeslByvale, in the Damaia cimntiy;
■ad BetiUuv and Jenualem, among the Hottentota.
fs and e
he i)Tit
484
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
SOUTH AFRICA.
Under this heading we propose to embrace oiir various South
African possessions, the two small native states of Kaf&aria
and Zulu Land, and the two independent Dutch republics of the
Orange River and TransvaaL
Boundaxies. — N., the Limpopo River and the Orange or
Gariep, the former separating it from the Portuguese posses-
sions on the E. coast, and the latter from the country of the
Hottentots and Bechuanas ; W., the Atlantic ; S. and E., the
Indian Ocean. Lat. 21° 40'— 34° 50' S.; Ion. 17°— 32° 45' E.
Extending from the Orange River on the Atlantic coast to Delagoa Bay
on the Mozambique coast, and from the northern frontier of the Trans-
vaal Republic to C. Agulhas, this region embraces 13° of latitude and
nearly 16° of longitude. Pietermaritzburg, cap. of Natal, near the cen-
tral parallel, is in the same lat. as Coquimbo Bay in Chil6, and the middle
of the Argentine Confederation in S. America ; but Cape Town, the cap.
of Cape Colony, in the extreme south, is situated nearly in the same
parallel as Valparaiso, Buenos Ayres, Adelaide, and Sydney.
Area, Population, and Political Divisions. — ^The area of South
Africa, within the above limits, may amount to 428,000 sq. m., and
the population to about 2,760,000, of whom nearly 1,000,000 are
of European descent, the remaining being natives. South Africa
may be now (1878) said to consist of six separate states — ^three of
which (Cape (3olony with its dependencies, Natal, and the Transvaal)
are British possessions ; one (the Orange Free State, between the
Orange River and the Transvaal) is an independent Dutch Republic ;
while two others. Native Kafl5uria (situated between the Great Kei
and Natal) and Zululand (situated on the east coasts north of Natal),
are governed by native Kaffir chiefs, whose territory is yearly being
annexed piecemeal to the British Empire. About six-sevenths of the
entire area of these states, together with one-half of the popula-
tion, belong to England ; and in all probability the whole of South
Africa will ere long be formed into a confederation of British States,
similar to the Canadian Confederation. The area and population of
the different sections of South Africa are as follows : —
States.
Cape Colony, Basutoland, West and "J
East Griqualand, and the Tnmskei V
Territory, j
Natal,
Transvaal,
Orange Free State,
Native Ter. (Kaffraria and Z\]l\]Aasid.^,«.
Area in
Square Miles.
\
229,858
16»145
114,857
Population
in 1877.
778^659
t
SOUTH AFRICA, 485
Capa Colony proper (inclndiiiK Britisli Kaifi-aria) now oirtiaista of
■eTsu provincee, which are subdivided into 60 connties. The ;irin-
cipol towns, with two or three exceptioDS, ore nil very Bmall.
W. Province.— Cape Town 33 (Table Bay}, Siioon'aTDwa3(FalsB
B»j), Stolknbosuh i.Faarl 4 (inland).
N.W. Peotince.— Worcester i (Breede), Port Hollnth (K".W.
last).
8.W. Proviscb.— Swellendam i (Breede), George Town 2 n, (S.
eoaat).
Midland Pbovibcb. — Eenufort 2 (Ganritz), Graaf Rejnet5(Snn-
day).
8.E. Pkovince.— Grahitw's Town 7 (Cowie), Port Elizahtth 13,
UitenhagB 4 (Algoa Buy).
S.E. PfloviNOK.— Fort BeauEort 3 (Kat), Ccadoek (Groat Fish),
Colesberg n. (Orange).
E. Pbovibcb.— (Brit. Kaf&aria).— King William's Town 4, E.
London (Buffiilo).
HataL— Pietermoritzburg 3 (Umgeni), D'Urban (E. coast).
Orange Frea State,— Bloumf on tein 1 (Kaiba, affi. Vnal).
Tranavaal. — Praetoria I (Apis), Potchefstroom 2 (Mooi), Lydel
bnrg n. (Olifantj.
SeecriptiTe Notes.— Caps Town, cap. of the Biitieh possession i
Cape Colony, was founded "tij the Dutcli in 1651. Situatad on tL.
Bouttem BboiB of Table Bay, at the foot of Table Mountain, it haa all
the appearance of a Dutch town, the streeta being parallBJ and crossing a'
right angles, and always kept eitreraely clean. The public bnildinga ar
nnmerons, embiacin); a cathedral, castle, museum, librair, and a mug
netic observatory, rendered famous by the labouta of Sir John Hersebel
and Professor Henderson. Simon's Town, with a naval araenal and i
C' ait alip, is tbe residence ot the naval commander of the colony
t JTollotli, witb a railway 65 m. long to the vast copper deposits a.
Ookiep. Grsbam's Town, 600 m. east of Cape Town, is an important
place, and perhaps the moat pleasant residence in the colony. Port Zliia-
with on Algoa Bay, the priuuipal shipping port for the eastern province,
and, neit to the cap., the moat freqiiButed. place in the colony. Graaf
B^net, at the foot of the Snenw-Bereen, ia the priiicipnl place in the
far interior of the colony. King WHliam's Town, fui'iiierly cap. of
Britiah Kaflraria, has the aspect of an English village. PietermaritzBnrg,
cap. of tlie colony of NatsJ. situated about 50 m. from the coast, ia a
amill t«wn neatly laid outiu the form of a parallolograin. D'Drhan, for
merly Port Natal, on tlie northern ahore of a fine inlet of the ocean, i.
the only port of the colony, and ia fast rising in bnpnrtance. Bloemfim.
--'- — -'■'■- Orange Free State. Praetoria, the seat of govert
om, the principal town in the Transvaal. I.ydei.__g,
■the vicinity of the gold fields, and on the E. elope of Che DnLkeniberg. I
^nifitf«Mid HoKatBlni.— Sonth Afnca embiaccs two great phjdn
I divisiona — viz., s belt o( coast-lasd of varying width, and an
wior plaloflti, which forms a part of the great triangular plateau
■ contioeot Between these princixial aeiilwns VVe csrap.'i.vs inm-
■ » af tetnea, riting fiMn soat^ to Mittt, ani se^iw.'wJJi.
486 POLITICAL GEOORAPHY.
from each other by mountain-chains. The only passage from one of
these terraces to another is by narrow and difficult mountain-gorges,
named Kloof 8, some of which have been made available for wheeled
carriages. These terraces are called Karroos^ the largest of which —
the Great Karroo — is an arid desert 350 m. long, 50 m. broad, and
2000 ft high. The mountain-chains are three in number, and paral-
lel to each other, as also to the S. and S. E. coasts.
I. The Sicellendam Mountains, of moderate elevation, proceed from
Table Mountain, in the Cape district, for 200 m. eastwani, and at an
average distance of 20 m. from the south coast. Height of Table Moun-
tain, 3582 ft. It owes its name to its peculiar form, which resembles a
table in shape, and having a flattened summit. It is often covered with
a white mist, locally named "The Table-Cloth." 2. The ZtoarU or Black
Mountains, about 30 m. farther inland, and separated from the former
by the plateau of Kannaland. In some places they attain an elevation of
4000 ft. 3. The Northei^n Chain, which forms the water-parting between
the basin of the Orange and those of the other rivers of the coimtry, and
which is separated from the Zwarte Mountains by the Great Karroo. It
receives different names in its course from W. to K, as Roggeodd in
Tulbagh, Nieuwveld in Beaufort, &neeuv) Berg in Graaf Revnet, and
Drakenherg or Quathlarriba, W. of Natal, where Cathkin Peak, tne highest
summit of South Africa, rises to a height of 10,367 ft., while Compass
Berg, in Graaf Reynet (8500 ft.), is the highest point in Cape Colony.
Rivers. — These are numerous, but being generally very small, and
interrupted by rapids and sandbanks, they are not navigable ; and
their beds being considerably depressed below the general surface,
they are ill adapted for the purposes of irrigation, while many of
them are quite destitute of water in the dry season. The following
are the principal : —
The Orange River or Gai^ep, in the N., separating the colonial territory
from the interior. Its principal brancn, the Vaal, rises in the Draken-
herg Mountains, at an elevation of 10,000 ft. above the sea. Great Fish,
Nosop, Aiutaas, Vaal, and Caledon on its right ; and the Great Hartebeest
and Brak on the left. Olifant or Elephant River enters the Atiantic
midway between the Orange and Cape Town. The Breede, in Worcester
and Swellendam, enters the Indian Ocean at Fort Beaufort : it is one of
the largest and deepest rivers of the colony, but its navigation is impeded
by a sandbank at its mouth. The Oauritz separates the districts of
Swellendam and George, receiving as affluents the Olifant and Gkunks.
The Gamtoos, in Uitenhage, 200 m. long, receives the Salt River and
Kouga. The Sunday River, from Graaf Reynet, falls into Al^ Bay.
The Greai Fish Rivei% between Albany and Victoria, and the Keitiamma,
the Buffalo, the G^eai Kei, and the Tvgela, all flow S.E. to the Indian
Ocean.
Climate. — The climate is mild and healthy, but very dry, remaric*
ably free from epidemic diseases, though few of tne innabltantl
attain to an advanced age. It is particularly adapted to Enropeani'
afflicted with pulmonary complaints. The climate of liia Ote
Free State and the Transvaal is unrivalled for its nhlbrilar.
On an average about 23 inches of rain fall annoallyst f
32 inches at Graham's Town ; but the interior ud\f
J-
437
the Great Karroo no rain falls so
Snow falle only on the mounta
covered by it for eix months in ths yeai
jsllel foe dryjiesj
nnics lor inree years in
the highest peiUcs of whii
The entire teiritory lies between tlie mean aimnal isotherms of 61 and
BS° Fall. The hottest months nra Decemlwr and jaimnry, when the
thennDmeter soinetimeB rises to Si" ; while in the coldest months, Jnno
and July, it descends to 67'. At CnpB Town the mean nimual tempera-
ture iB Sr.S, mean whiter 68°.3, and mean summer 70°. In Natal tha
tempei-atuTD is higher and tlia rain more ropioHS. At Durhan tha ther-
mometer ranges in summer between 77° and 83°, and from 53° to 70° in
winter, while the rainfall amaunts ta SO inches. Here thunderstorm a
are frequent along the coast,
Minnmia — Immense deposits of gold were discovered in 1S6S on
the Limpopo river, between the Tmnsvaal republic and the Portn-
gpese settlementa of Sofala, &u.; tlii'y have received the name of the
victoria Digpngs : while more recently valnahle diamond-fieliis have
been diaoovered on the Vaal river, in Griqualand West, and in the
Orange Free State. Rich copper ore ia found near tha mouth of the
Orange. Coal of good quality has been discovered in Natal and
yarioua places of Capo Colony, while iron, copper, and other minerola
occur in various localities of that colony. Salt is obtained from salt
lakes, themost considerable of which is near Algoa Bay, and aapecies
of Boda, foondinthe Great Karroo, ia used for the manufacture of soap.
Botanj'. — South Africa is comprised within " Schonw's 23d Pliyto-
geographic Region," the lloca of which is of n peculiar and varied
ohuacter, rich in forms, but not luxuriant (p. 55).
Timber is scarce in the west, but Increases gradnally towards the east ;
bat fn tfatal hii^ forests of valuable tiinhtr abound in the Kloofi, and
many tracts along the coast are covered with foi-esta of pines and man-
groves. It is BriiphatiEally the re^on of Slapelia, Maembri/anlAenut, and
eath are enumerated in
vicinity of Cape Town
. M SilverTree, conspicnouaforthe brilliantsilkywhito-
neas of its leaves. Tahle Monntoln is remarkable for the liiia Orandi-
fivra, a splendid flowering plant not known to occur in any other locality.
'liiere ore tew native plauts useful to man fonnd in Cape Colony, but
many such have been introdncsd, as the Enropean cereoli, fhiita, and
eaculent v^tables ; also Boi^hnm, hntatos, plantains, tamarinds, and
shaddocks. The aloe is an iniponont artii^le of oonunerce, Eonipeau
gmins and the fnilta of temperate and tropieal dimes have been aucoeis-
ruUf introdnced. More com in raised in Cape Colony than ia required
'- ■'- ' -^ — '--'■- — '- irippled hythe Dntch hiw of suo-
operty equally amom; his children,
capital. I-<u?e quantities oi wine, and of
'"ictd ut the ^p" ; but, with the ciception
'3^ inbirior. This wine is the produce ot
»t of Table Monntaio. It & v«ry rich
wt artJde at uominena. The agricnltBnil
1, inoluding sogar, coffee, in '' -
Tha plua-appla ri|ieu9 ii
: tictttt adapted for the gmwth at
aption ; but iwricn
■'■^ ■-dWdme a
488 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
cereals. In the Transvaal colony — ^the garden of S. Africa— wheat grows
luxuriantly in the watered districts, tropical fruits flourish, and the
country is well suited for the cultivation of coifee, cotton, and the sugar-cane.
Zoology. — Colonisation has driven many of the larger wild animals
beyond the north frontier of the British colonies. The lion, hyena,
leopard, buffalo, hippopotamus, and zebra, are occasionally seen ; the
rhinoceros is rarely met with. The elephant has retreated beyond the
Crariep, but is still found in the county of Enysna. The ostrich
and eagle are the most remarkable of the birds ; the secretary or
snake-eater is a useful bird of prey, as it feeds exclusively on rep-
tiles ; while the honey-guide bird has the faculty of discovering the
stores of the wild bees, and is used by the native tribes for that pur-
pose. Snakes are numerous, but not formidable. The boa -con-
strictor, of a large size, has been killed near Natal, and also a new
species of crocodile. Fish are extremely abundant and of numerous
species ; and during winter, whales, porpoises, and sharks, enter the
bays, while seals and penguins frequent various parts of the coast.
Ethnograpliy. — South Africa is inhabited by a great variety of
races — Europeans, Kaffirs, Hottentots, Griquas, Basutus, and Malays.
The coloured races are the most numerous, and occupy some districts
conjointly with Europeans ; while in others (as Kaffraria and Zulu Land)
they are unmixed and independent.
The Europeans consist for the most part of the descendants of the early
Dutch settlers, of British who have emigrated from the mother country,
and of a few French and Germans. The Dutch, who form the majority
of the white population of Cape Colony, and occupy almost exclusively
the Orange River and Transvaal Free States, are commonly called hotrs
(" agriculturists "). They have lost much of their ancestral industry and
cleanliness, are illiterate, prejudiced, and not always well aflected towards
the British Grovemment ; but they have retained their original language
and religion. Their usual avocations are the rearing of cattle and sheep
and the cultivation of the ground, while the British are chiefly engaged
in commerce and in official situations. The Kaffirs, who give their name
to the great South African family of nations, are mainly confined to the
eastern districts of Cape Colony, and thence along the coast to Delagoa
Bay. They are diviaed into three branches — the Kaffirs proper, the
Zulus, and Fingoes, each speaking a separate dialect of tiie Kaffir lan-
guage,— the main representative of the great alliterative family of tongues.
The Kaffirs are remarkable for symmetry and beauty, are warlike, in-
telligent, chiefly pastoral, and live under a patriarchal government. The
total number of this race occupying the territory we are describing does
not probably exceed half a million. The Hottentots are gradoallsr di^p-
pearing before the attacks of civilisation, and are now chiefly roimd m
the N.W. section of Cape Colony, many of them, howeverjittdatiiig u
servants to the white population in all parts of that colony. The GriapiM
are a mixed race of Dutch and Hottentot extraction, andazefimsdehiefly
in the Orange River settlement. They speak the Cape HoQaiididu Tba
Basutus are also a mixed race of Bechuanas, Ka£Br8, and Bmhiiup. ^nuiT
form the principal race in Basuto Land, now JMltisli tMHtery. T
Malays, who were introduced by the original Dutch wMOBi -^
otts in the towns of Cape Colony. The great nujoittj of ti
irious calODies arc Protestants, belonging Eitlier to tbe Eugtiiib
Church or to the Dutch Rafonned, but ■Wealeyan MelhodiFtB are also
numerous. Both Cape Colony and Nuts! is the diocese of an Eneiiah
tjlahop. Nmneions misEionaiV atatiana are moinlsiiied in South Africa,
anil very m&n}' of the natives have been converted to Christianity. The
Moravian Brethren were the Erst in the field, and they were followed hy
the London Mmioanry Society, the Wasleyan Mlsaionary Societf, the
Church Missionary Society, and the Free Church of Scotland. A com-
plete Kaffir verBion of the Holy Scriptures has gonB forth from the South
African niiasionary press, besides tlie Bechnana version by the Rev. Eobert
Moffat, who has for an inanv veara lahourari amon? the Bechnana tribnA
In the Intel
Africa in li , ^
race. He went among them as their friend, lived with them ai. . . ._
themaelvea, learned their language from their own lipa, then gave it back
to them in a writUn form, and has lived to present to thein the Word of
God, translated and printed and published in Sonth Africa by hia own
immediate influence. Hundreds and thonaanda of those people, who
were at first astonished at a letter, and thought it a spirit, can now in-
talligBntly peruse the sacred volnme in their own tongue. In view of
such facts as these, are we not warranted in believing thatsoaii "Ethio-
pia shall stretch out her hands unto Giod " !
GoTermneiit, fto.^ — Cape Colony waa discovered by Bartliolomew
*ie Dial, a Portaguese, in 1486, and Cape Town founded by the
Dutch in 1651. The colony wai taken by tbe English in 1795,
restored to the Dntch in 1802, and finally ceded to England in 1814.
Hatal waa discovered by the PortugnesB navigator \*asco do Gama
nn Christmas Daj, 1197, and hence the name Nalal. The Dutch
attempteii to colonise it in 1721. It was annexeil to Cape Colony
hj the Britiafa Government in 1843, and in 135S it waa erected
into a separata and independent colony. The government of Cape
Colony is vested in a governor and eiecntiva council, appointed by
the Crown. There is a Isgislative council of 21 members, aod
a Honae of Assembly of 68. The government of Natal is vest*d
in a lieutenant'gDvei'nor, aided by an executive and a ]egislativa
GonnciL
CDmDier<!e and Hann&etiireB. — The settlers at tbe Cape ere chiefly
employed in tbe production of wool and wine, in the breeilingof horses,
^beep, and cattle, and in ugricultural operations. Tbe first ia now
^T far tbe moat important article sent from the colony, the exports
lkTingamauntedinlB741«£2,Q13,0OOinTalae. Tbe next in impoi-
^ceucDupar.tlieexpDrtsof wbicbamonnt«d ta£321,100 ; and the
Mrd in vntuo is oi,t neb r.nf hers, which wsrs rained at £205,800.
"tain was, in 1S27, no
1 decreased to 80,000
and boms (which are
is branch of trade is
.Iried fish, wbale and
m the moi
lO worth ai
490 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
cate the ostrich on laige fanns. The total exports to the United
Kingdom in 1874 amounted to £3,951,000. The imports consist
chiefly of woollens, cottons, hardware, forniture, paper and books,
from Britain ; piece goods and teak from India ; tea m)m China ; and
sngar from the Mauritius, &c. The total imports in 1874 amounted
to £5,725,000, of which £4,431,000 came from Great Britain. Natal
is a very flourishing colony, but as yet it is able to export articles of
raw produce only, as wool, sugar, cotton, coffee,.hides, ostrich-feathers,
arrowroot, &c. Its exports to the United Kingdom in 1874 amounted
to £770,500. The imports from the United Kingdom for the same
year amounted to £1,122,000, and consisted chiefly of ale and beer,
ironmongery, machinery, haberdashery, and cotton and woollen
manufactures. In the Transvaal and Orange Free State, ivory,
hides, tallow, and ostrich-feathers are the principal articles of ex-
portation.
Inland OommnnlcatloiL — ^The want of good roads forms a serious
drawback to the prosperity of. our South African colonies. The
agriculturists transport their goods in immense lumbering waggons
drawn by oxen, wnich move at a very slow rate. In the Cape
Colony, however, railways are being rapidly constmcted. Already
there is a line in operation from the capital to Simon's Town ;
another to Stellenbosch, diverging to Maunsbury, and to Worces-
ter ; also from Port Elizabeth to Cradock, with a In'anch to Graham's
Town ; and several others in construction. In Natal, too, a com-
mencement has been made.
SOUTH CENTRAL AFRICA.
Under South Central Africa we propose to treat of the
countries lately explored by Livingstone, situated north of the
Orange River, and embracing the Sechuana country, the desert
of K^ahari, and the basin of the Zambesi above the Portuguese
settlement of Tet^.
BoTindaxies. — ^N., the district of the Great Lakes ; W., the
Portuguese possessions on the west coast of Africa and the
country of the Hottentots ; S., the Orange River, separating it
from Cape Colony ; E., Transvaal, Sofala, and Mozambique.
It thus extends from lat. 12° to 29** S., and from Ion. 20* to 33° 26' EL
Lake Ngami, near the central parallel, is in the same lat. as the island
Mauritius, Port Denisgn in Queensland, New Caledonia, Potosi, and Villa
Bica in South America. Its extreme length, from L. Dilolo in the N. to
the Orange River in the S., is about 1190 m., and its breadth, on the
parallel of L. Ngami, about 870 m.
Area and Populatlon. — There are no exact data for calculating
either the area or population ; but multiplying the length by th*
BOCTH CEKTEiL AFEICA.
(treadtli, the former may be ronphly estimated at 800,000 sq. m., or
■eren times the area of the British Isles. An maoy portions of tbia
'rast r^oD nre known to hs densely peopled, ve may safely estimate
dm [xJpTilation at uot less than IS, 000,000, or one-half that of the
Unitea Kingdom.
PollUeal DlTislonB. — The principal political divisions of the vast
region above defined are — 1. The.country of the Griquas or Griqua-
land West, now forming a dependency of Great Britaaa (p. 484), im-
mediately N, of the Oranee; 2. Conntry of the Becbniiniis proper,
IN.E. of the Griquas ; 3, The Bakdahnri, in the desert of Kaialiari ;
.4. The Mnkololo, in the upper basin of the Zambes6.
Ohiiitta ConNTBT.— GriquB Town n. (Oranfie),
Eechitanah Phopeb. — Kuniman or New Latafcu n._, Old Lalaku
IL (Italopo, o^. Orange), Kolobecgu., Shoshoug n. (Limpopo),
Desebt of Kai<aba&i. — Numerona viUages of mud hutu, but uo
Makololo Countbt.— Linyanti (Chobs, o^ Zambesfi), Zumlio,
Scshske, Nsriel, Katougo, Shinto, Katcnia (Zambesi).
DMorlptlTe Hotea.— Instead of giving, sm uanal in tbia paragraph.
Boles desorihinf; the different towns, we shall better consult the in-
terest of the student by presenting the results of Dr Livingstone's
discoreriea in this region (in 1S52-3), embracing the Physical Qeo-
graphy, Cllmato, Hatural Fioducts, and ftlmography.
Dr Livingstone started in the beginning of June 1852, on his famous
journey, from Cape Town— a journey which extendsd from the southern
extremity of the continent to St Paul da Loanda, the cap. of Angola, on
the west coast, and thence acraaa South Central Africa, in an oblique
direction, to QuUliinan^, on the channel of Mozambique. He was accom-
panied by two Christian Bechuanas from Kumman, and two Bakwain
mBQ. Tma small party was conveyed in a Inmbering Cape waggon drawu
b]f ten oieu. His route lay in a north-easterly direction, nearly parallel
with a line bisecting the triangular area of Cape Colony ; he crossed the
Change lUver in Ion. 2i', neai' the point at which it receives the Brak on
its left. If we suppose this triangular tract of country to be divided
into three longitudinal zones, we shall find each of them presenting dis-
tinct pecaliantles of climate, physical appearance, and population; and
iftlie triseoting lines be produced, these characteristiL's will he found to
be better marked beyond the limits of the Colony lljau even within It.
The eastern zone Is often furnished with mamttains. well wooded with
..3 succulent trees, on which neither tiiu nor diBught has the
illest effect, and its seaboard gorges are ctad with gigantic timber. It
la ulso comparatively well watered with streams and flawing rivers ; the
wmnal supply of rain is considerable, and the inhabitants — Kaffirs or
Zolui^Bn tall, muscular, and well made, ehrewd, energetic, and brave ;
in ihoTt, fully meriting the character given them of being " mtgnilicent
savages." Their splendid physios! development and form of skull show
that, but for their block ikiu and woolly bair, they would take rank
among the foremost Europeans. The nert division— that which embrace*
the centre of this region — can scarcely be called hilly, for what hills there
•ware very low, II consists, torthe most part, of eiaansiveslightly-undu-
amaSest t
492 POUTICAL GEOGRAniy.
lating plains, with no lofty mountains, only a few springs^ and still fewer
flowing streams ; rain is far from abimdaut, and droughts occur every few
years. Without artificial irrigation no European grain can be raised ; and
the inhabitants, who are named Bedmanas, though evidently of the same
stock originally with the Kaffirs, and closely resembling them in being an
agricultural as well as a pastoral people, are a comparatively timid race,
and inferior to the Kaffirs in phvsical development. The western division
is still more level thou the middle one, being ru^ed only near the coast.
It includes the great plain called the Kalahari jDesert, which is remark-
able for little water and very considerable vegetation. The reason prob-
ably why so littie rain falls in this extensive plain is, that the prevailing
"Winds of most of the interior are easterly, with a little southmg. The
moisture taken up by the atmosphere from the Indian Ocean is deposited
on the eastern hilly slope long before the wind which had transported it
arrives at the desert The first and last of these zones having been de-
scribed under "Eastern Africa," and the "Country of the Hottentots,"
we shall confine ourselves here to the great missionary's discoveries in
the country of the Bechuanas. The term " Bechuana " is the most gen-
eric and comprehensive of all the ethnographic distinctions of Southern
Africa, if we except the word ** Kaffir," as it includes nearly all the tribes
that live between the Orange River on the S. and the Zambesi on the N.
Recently, indeed, some of the tribes comprised under this designation
have pushed their conquests considerably farther north— c or. , the Mako-
lolo, who, under their able chief, Sebituane, have extended their domin-
ion as far as lat. 14° S. In general, however, the Zambesi forms the
northern boundary of the Bechuanas. The numerous tribes or nations of
which they consist are mainly comprised under the leading divisions of
Bakalahari, Makololo, Matabele, Basutos, and Bakoni
Tlie Bakalahari are regarded as the oldest existing division of the
Bechuana family of nations. Laving immediately noith of the Orange
River, and confined for the most p^ to the stenle desert of Kalahari,
they form, in all likelihood, the remnants of the first extensive emigration
southwards of that family. In point of antiquity, therefore, they wonld
appear to rank next to the degraded Hottentots, who partly live amoDgst
tnem, and partly lie W. of them, and who are regarded as the aboriginee
of the country. Formerly they possessed laige nocks of homed cattle,
of which they were deprived by a fresh migration of their own nation
from the north, and dnven into the desert, where they live by compul-
sion and not by choice. They still retain in undying vigour that love of
agriculture and domestic animals so characteristic of the Bechiuma laoe.
Though confined to the same arid regions with the Bushnien, and rab-
iected to the same climatic influences, they greatly differ firom tliem in
language, race, habits, and appearance — a fact which very deBxly ahcfws
that mere external agencies cannot account for difference of XBoei Thef
hoe their gardens annually, though the only return they cen hope for ii a
supply of melons and pumpkins, and carefully rear small herds of 80>'^
though they have usually to supply water for them in spooiiftilS|Mnr vita
a bit of ostrich eg^-shell, out of small wells dug in the sand. TbiUf an
a timid race, andm physical development often resemUe the aboriginal
of Australia. They nave thin lep and arms, and laige pcotndtqg aib-
domens, caused by the coarse, mdigestible food tliqy ML 7S^
greatly tyrannised over by the other Bechuana tribee HTfa^Br
and their hard-earned property, consisting chiefly of Hia ddm
is carried off with impunity. Such is their diead tiyv
more warlike neighbours, that they choose their ntf'
BOUTH CENTEAL XFEICA. 493
r, Bud hide their enpplieB of it by tilliiiB the wttter-jiits wlUi aatid,
>na niEifcing a lire oybt tliB spat, bo that a stranger gbji form no concep-
tion of the place where the precimiB fluid ie etowed away. The ttsi:! of
country eztendiug from the Drauce Biver to Lake Ngatui, asd Irom 24°
K Ion- tQ near the west coast, has hean called a " desert," simply l>eca.use
it contains no mnning water, and very little in wbIIb. But it is by no
means desl^tate of veget&tiuu ; for il is covered with gmse smd a great
»ariBty of crBsping plaula, beaides which there are large patchEs of bushes
■nd even treea. It is ramsTliably flat, bnt intenected in diSeirait parts
by the beds oF anient TiTen ; and prodigiaus flocks of a speuicE of ante-
IotW] which require little or no water, roani uvar the trackless plains.
The Bakalahan and Bualunen prey on the game, and on the coantless
Todentia and sniiUI apedes nf tiie feline race wliicL mbsiat on those. Tlio
quantity of gra^s that grows in this remarkable rsgioii Is astonishing. It
jumaily rises Id tufts, ■with >rore spaces between, or the intervals are oe-
onpisd by creeping plants. The umnber of these that lave tnberoos
roots is very great, and their structure is soch as to supply Qntriment
and mtneture, when, during the long dronghts, tiey can be obtained no-
stalk not thicker than s crow's guiil ; on digging down a foot or ei^l«eii
inches beDeath, he cnmea to a tiihar, often ae large as the head of ■ yonng
tiiilA ■ and. when the rind ia rBmoved, he finds it to be a mass of callular
tdssue, filled with fluid, mnch like that of a yonng tsmip; while, owing
to the depth at which it is found, il is generally deliciously cool and
lefreshing. The fauna of the Kalahari consists for the most part of small
BBTnivora of the felrue tribe, ai the .jackal, ocelot, lyni, wijd-cut, aiid
iqwtted cat, and occasjonaJly hons, leopards, panthers, and hyenas ; the
mminants include the buffalo, eland, gau, bleaWuk, blnelmck, steinbuch,
Knd springbuck. Birds are comparatively few, but indade the ostrich
v&d EwzJt ; while serpents, which ore aome1dmE£ of an enormous size, are
vary DntneroaE. The prindpal subdiviBion of the Bakalahari is the Bak-
waiDB or Baquena, who are the most commercial tribe belonging to this
ianiilr. Properly speaMng they have no towns, bnt there are numerous
assemblages cf huts, longing in an orderly manner around the central one,
wbicb forms tlie restdence of the chief, and they are often mirvsd from
plaoe to plaoe as their radgenoies raqnire. Many of the people have been
oouverten to CfadBtiauity, tiie prinrapai mission atatloDS bemg Eommaji
orLfttaAu, 53(1 m. S.E. of Onie Town, with a fine, evsr-flowinB foun-
tain ; and Enlobeag, about SSn n. farther N., with a charming elimate.
Dt Livingstone residHd tbr a tjtue at each of these places, and has im-
parted to them a classioU interest.
Makololo.— Th^si.' form tbr mrrr.t nortliem divisioii of the great Bechn-
'^'i;' " -. " ■ " ■.liltiein. They people the
■■ ■ "imbes^, and recantly have
' latitude 14° e.; bnt tiiia
■I bvtha nnmorouB negro
494 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
to avoid beinff swept away by its inundations during tlie rainy seasoOy
the sites on which tney stand are of necessity very limited. This valley,
the upper ^rtion of which is called the Valley of the Barotse, is ex-
tremely fertile, and capable of producing two crons in the vear. The
Makololo cultivate a large ext^t of land arouna their vilifies, and
raise great quantities of maize, millet, and native com {holciu tcr^iwm),
besides yams, sugar-cane, Egyptian arum, sweet-potatoes, two kinds of
manioc or cassave, beans, pumpkins, melons, and cucumbers. Fmit-
trees abound, buL not having received any care, the fruit is usually acid.
On the banks of the Chobe grow some species of the Fieu* Indteoy acaciaa
of a lieht-green colour, splendid motsintsella, and the eveigreen cypress-
shaped motsuri. At the confluence of the Leeba and Leeambye is found
a large variety of flowers of great beauty and of curious forms, and in
fenend quite unlike those to be met with south of Lake Ngami The
'apilionaceous family of plants is espnecially numerous. The grass is so
luxuriant, Dr Livingstone says, that in many places it quite concealed
his oxen and waggon. Trees of many new species occur. The baobab,
the most gigantic form in the vegetable kingdom, together with the ban-
van, the wild date, the wild vine, and Palmyra, give character to the
landscape ; while, skirting the margin of the Chobe and many other
rivers, are seen forests of tall reeds, and a serrated ^rass, the edges of
which cut like a razor. This region abounds with wild animals, many
of them unknown to science. Among the more common species may be
mentioned the lion, eleplumt, hippopotamus, rhinoceros, wud-hog, zebra,
giraife, gnu. tsessebe, leche, buffalo, koodoo, nakong, and antelope.
Birds, whick are extremely numerous, comprise the turtle-dove, ibisy
fish -hawk, plover, white -necked raven, parrots, weavers, francolins,
guinea-fowls, iguano, speckled king-fisher, bee-eater, swallow, sand-
marten ; white pelicans, in flocks of three nundred at a time, following
each other in long-extending line ; clouds of a black shell-eating bird,
called linongolo ; snipes, curlews, and herons without number ; the
stately flamingo, the Numidian crane, gulls, waders, black geese, ducks ;
kala, ardelta, crow, marabou, and the strange-loolui^ scissor-biU with
snow-white breast, jet-black coat, and red beak, sittmg by day on the
sandbanks, the very picture of comfort and repose. Crocodiles in vast
numbers frequent the rivers, with water-turtles of great size. North
of the Bakwam country are found occasionally huge land-tortoises, which,
with their unlaid eggs, make a very agreeable dish. The serpents attain
here an enormous size, and are often highly venomous ; while others are
harmless and even edible, as the huge python and tari, which not un-
frequently are from 15 to 20 feet long. Fish of many species abound in
the larger rivers, and during the rainy season are seen descending in
immense shoals, especially in the Zambesi and the Chobe. The great
scourge of the country is the tsetse fly, whose bite is fatal to the ox,
horse, and dog, but perfectly harmless to man and wild animals, as also
to the mule, ass, and goat. The climate being tropical, and the country
well watered, all nature teems with life ; and though the lower grounds
are in general unhealthy to Europeans, there are numerous spots in which
the white man can reside with impunity. On the whole, the discovery
of this immense and fertile tract of country forms the most important
contribution to geographical science that has been made in modem times.
The ereat Bechuana family of nations, isolated for ages from the civilised
world, and constantiy at war with one another, destitute alike of the
blessings of Christianity and the use of letters, stand far hi^er in the
scale of humanity than Euxo^^easxa 1[^ '^t^viouslY any conception oL
EAST AFUCA.
. . _ nsidenible propCTt in rtnnr of lbs m
fal uts. indndiiig Ui>t of ■gncnltnre ; ibey an lamDnihiT dupoMd ti
waidi Enfrtishmen, with irbom Uiey ue ready to engiTB In coniincrca i
and, thon^ lununally destitute of the relifriiMiB feeline, Uey hiTe eriDml
thodr ' — -'^- -- --■ ._.v_*_..-i.._.,^ _. . -
thatc
lAter Discorerie
liyMrC. IJTingBtcne, Dr Kirk, Mid Mr Rae, (need the ri'
its conflucnn with the Zainb»^ ■ point midway between 8«BA and tht
apex of the delta, up to its point of deputnre mm Lain Nyasaa (lagni-
fyinc " Lake of ttw Stars "|. The soathetn extremity of ths lain is bt
lat 11° Sy S. Its elflVBtion above the aea ii mnch leea than tlut of
Itikt Tanganyika, the lOQthem end of whieh is in lat. 7° SO* S. (sm jl
4451; bntDr Lirinastone conld not then poaitiTely say whether any, or
wha^ ocamection inbusts between them. Another luge body of mUx
-wmter, named l«ke Shirwa, 90 m. long by 40 broad, is sitnated a few
miles to the ea«t of L&ke Nyaua, being M^anted bom it by a narrow
iitlinins, over which all the trade from the interior to the eout most of
neCTsmty cross. It is at this pmnt that Dr Livingstone thinks the ex-
portation of slaves may most easily lie diecked. At the ]ioint of egnn
from Lake Ilyassa, the Shir4 is a magnifieent liver, vaijing from 80 to
150 yards wide, IS ft. deep, and mnning at the rate of 2{ knots an honr.
Eicept for about 33 m. of rapids, it is navigable througboDt its entin
conrae, while the adjacent conntry eiyoyB a highly salnbrioua cliniateb
with a soil capable of jiroducing anything that can grow in troidcd
nglont. The natives are intelligent, and actively engaged in ^ricnltnra,
eapedaUy cotton, which the explorers declare is of foreign ongin. The
worst feature about them ii their frequent drunkenness, from the over-
use of native beer and Indian faemp. Until slavery, however, is abolished,
the rvsoDTcea of the coimtry can be of no use to Enropeim nations — all
^timate commerce being efTeotually paralysed by this master-evil of tha
i
EAST AFRICA.
fnDBR tliis deugnation i
eastern coB£t of the
the Gulf of Aden.
comprehended all the counlrien on
lying between Delagoa Bay
Bonndaries. — It h bounded on the S. by Zulu land and the
Transvaal Gepublic ; on the E. by the Indian Ocean ; on the N.
by the Gulf of Aden and Abyssinia ; and on the W. h^ the
— '"i of the Great Lakes and the unexplored territoneB of
■al Africa. It thus extends from lat. 26° Itf a to lat ll"
Nt embracing s coost^line of upwards of 3500 m., with a
adth varying from 200 m. in the S. to SOO m. in the N.
rea and Population. — These, in the present imperfect state nt
ir knowledge, cannot be given with anj sy^TOfcc^Vt awwaa^-.^roN.
496 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
maltiplying the length by the average breadth, we have an area of
upwards of 1,979,425 sq. m.; while the total population may be
roughly estimated at 22,000,000.
SurflEUie, ftc. — The eastern coast of intertropical Africa strikingly
corresponds with the western. On both sides the traveller meets
with tne same maritime plain of rank and exuberant vegetation, cut
by streams disemboguing into the ocean ; the same expanse of stony
ridges and uplands, running parallel with the coasts, and curiously
resembling, both in direction and position, the Eastern and Western
Ghkts of tne Dakhan ; the same diseases, which have the same effect
on the European constitution ; the same alternation of damp, cold,
and depressing heat ; the same sensation of invincible lan^or and
oppression. Moreover, the fauna, many of them peculiar to Africa,
are identical — lions and leopards, elephants and hippopotami, zebras
and buffaloes, giraffes, antelopes, and crocodiles. The ethnographic
characteristics are also analogous — the same cruel despotisms, eternal
feuds, and bloody rites ; the same exports and imports — the one con-
sisting of slaves and ivory, and the other of piece goods and wires,
cowries and beads ; the same sort of dress — unbleached cotton, skins,
or grass kilts ; and the same diet — ^goats* flesh, poultry, river-fish,
holcus, manioc, and pulse.
Political and Geographical Divisions.— In the extreme south are
the settlements of the Portuguese, whose authority extends from
Delagoa Bay to Cape Delgado, where they lay claim to an area of
382,700 sq. m., and a population of 300,000 (?). The greater part of
the seaboard N. of tne Portuguese dominions is tributary to the
Sultan of Zanzibar, whose capital, Shanganny, is situated in the popu-
lous island of Zanzibar. His territory on this coast is said to embrace
an area of 706,725 sq. m., and a population of 10,000,000. Still
farther N. are the Gallas and the Somfl<li country, extending to the
Gulf of Aden— area 890,000 (?), population about 12,000,000.
SoFALA and Mozambique. — Sofala 8, Inhambane (coast), Lanbo,
Sena, Tet^ 4, Zumbo (Zambesi, Mozambique 9, Quilliman4 (Chan-
nel of Mozambique).
Zanguebar. — Shanganny 60 (I. Zanzibar), Quiloa, Mombas,
Lamoo, Patta, Juba, Brava 5, Magadoxo 4 (coast), Gkdwen 10
(Haines).
Somali Country. — Bad (E. coast), Berberah (G. of Aden).
Gallas Country. — Melinda (Co. of Zanguebar), Har^ (Webbe),
Zeyla (G. of Aden),* Bonga (Sobat, qffl. Nile).
Descriptive Kotes. — Sofala, cap. of a Portuguese government of tame
name, is supposed by some to be the Ophir oi King Solomon — ^it being
the port of Manica, tne best gold country in Eastern AMca. It oonaiiti
chiefly of mud huts, and is protected by a fort Inhambaaei tlie bealiiii-
est of the Portuguese stations in Eastern Africa: it eirooirti ivonrand
bees'-wax. Sena or Senna, midway between Tete and QaaUmiaB, via
the former cap. of the Portuguese dominions in Eastern Atda^ but ^
now in a ruinous condition. It is a slave-mart, and very imliMltiiy : lit
* Zeyla Is now claimed by lEgypL
EAST AFRICA. 497
K is thB monntem Mommbala, from 3000 to 400n ft. high. Teti ot TettS,
cap. of a Portugueaa government, nowmnchdaolioedfrom its former jiro-
iperitj, contains a, fort with a few guns. Dr Liviiigstone considers it very
healthy. Gold-dust in small quantities is found in the vicinity, together
-with rich seams of coal and some Ironstone. Sozambiqns, a foTtifled
maritime vity, and the cap, of the Portuguese possessions in Eastern
Africa, is situated on an island near the coast. It eiports ivory, gold-
j — 1 — j slaves hronght down from the regions of the Upper ZambeaS.
_in6, cap. of a Portugnese government, was visited by Dr Living-
□ 1856, who describes it aa a mere village, extremely unhealthy,
being huilt on amud-bniik and smroundEil byextfinaive swanips and riee-
RTOunds. It contains a fort, and has a trade m gold, ivory, and especially
m slaves ; coal of good quality is plentifuL ShRnganny or Zanzibar,
cap. of the Sultan of Zanzibar's poaseasiona on the E. coast of Africa, is
situated in the populous island of Zanaibar. It contains a wooden tort,
snd carries on a considerable trade vdth Arabia and the ports in the Bed
fiea, eiiporting ivory, sharlts' fins, sandal-wood, amber. sloUs, and cocoa-
nnts. It is indeed the chief market in the world for the supply of ivory,
gum-copal, and cloves. It is unhealthy for Europeans, the annual fall of
rain being about 167 inches. QuilOEt, on an island off the coast, is the
Srincipal town of a province of same name under the rule of theSuitan ot
anzibar. Once an important town, it is noiv a mere village. UombM,
a small town on an island near the shore, was visited by Vasco de Gama
Id 1497 : it is now a missionaiT station. KagadoiO, cap, of a state,
which is snbject to the Sultan of Zanzibar, Is the chief commercial entre-
pot between Cape Guardafui and the river Juba, fierheiaJi, a seaport
in the SomSli country, has a great annual fair frequented by merchants
from Arabia, India, and other parts of Asia. Kellnda, a seaport town
on the coast of Zangnebar, belongs to the Gallas. Ewrar, the principal
place of the Galla toontry, exports coffee, slaves, gum, and myrrh, oy
way of its port Zejla. Both are now subject to Egypt.
"-\frica,"
CUnute and FroductB, — Soutli of the Tropic of Capricorn, ur in
the region eitcnding from Natal to Cape CorrienteB, the climata
approaches cloaoly to tlint of Cape Colony ; eveijrwhere else it is
tropical, and is characterised bj extreme heat, periodical raina. anil
i;reat insalubrity. The island Zanzibar is noted for its c-
butniditf, the
which bring the heaviest :
from tha Indian Ocean, -^
The principal mineral-
gold-dust, which is Ivi.
Sofala ; copper, rich ■
Mozambiijue ; and aujl
"■it portion of the nuii.
nea to achonw's ■
idy desoribed nnd' :
.ion, together with r'
ith region of that nsti.
V chftTBrteriatio vege 1 ■ ■
f «7), wid toLiviiv/
sr:!,
.67ini!he». Tbe w
498 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
not differ essentially from that of the basin of the Zambesi already
given in full (p. 494). The elephant and lion inhabit the gorges of
Mozambique; crocodiles abound in the rivers. For the peculiar
zoology of Madagascar, see p. 442.
Ethnography. — The natives of the eastern coast of Africa, and in-
land as far as the great lakes, are regarded by Burton and Speke as
belonging to the great Kaffir or South African family, and as occupy-
ing a mean position between the Syro- Arabian races of the Barbary
States and the aborigines of Nigritia.
They are closely allied by blood, language, and other analogies, to the
natives residing in the basin of the Zambesi; and extend from Cape
Delgado to the equator, where they come in contact with the Gallas and
SomMi. "They are all," says Captain Burton, "similar in appearance
and cognate in idiom, although the difference of vocabulary renders neigh-
bouring tribes unintelligible to each other. " The group of dialects spoken
by them has been termed the Zangian family of languages, which radi-
cally differs from Ihe Syro- Arabian on the one hand, and the Nigro-
Hamitic on the other (see p. 450). Interiorly, they extend, according to
Biurton, into the central regions of intertropical AMca. The Gallas and
SomMi belong to Erapf's Nilotic class. Arabs are numerous in the
dominions of the Imam of Muscat, while a few Europeans are found in
the Portuguese territories. For the Ethnography of Af adagascar, see at
p. 442.
Commerce, See, — A considerable traffic in slavea, ivory, and tropi-
cal products is carried on with the interior, but the commercial rela-
tions are chiefly with Arabia. Shanganny, cap. of Zanzibar, and
the residence of its Sultan, is the great mart for the supply of ivory,
gum-copal, and cloves. The islands of Zanzibar and Pemba alone
produce annually no less than £80,000 worth of cloves. Cloves were
introduced into Zanzibar from Mauritius in 1880, and the produc-
tion here is now so great that the vtdue of the article has been re-
duced about 70 per cent. The total exports of the former island, in
1863, amounted to £500,000 (embracing, in addition to the above,
cocoa-nut oil, seeds, &c.) ; while the imports (consisting of Indian
manufactured goods, beads, arms, &c.) amounted to £560,000. The
nefarious traffic in slaves is still vigorously carried on in Mozambique
and Sofala, in spite of the endeavours of uie Portuguese Government
to suppress it. A great trade in slaves, gums, ffpiceSp and coffee, is
also carried on at Harar, in the country of the Gallas. The i^and
Socotra is famous for aloes, and gives name to the finest aloes of
commerce, which is very scarce in England, as tiie greater part of the
extract obtained in Europe under the name of Socotrine afoes is pro-
duced at Melinda, on the Zanguebar coast.
REGION OF THE GREAT LAKES.
Under this designation we include the npper barin o'
and the district around Lake Tanganyikai extendii^
REGION OP THE GREAT LAKES.
4D9
»
Bouthem fcontierof Nnbio to the lOlh degree of aoutli lat., being
the region recently explored by Captains Burton, Speke, and
Grant ; Baker, Peuiericfc, Stanley, and Cameron.
Bonndaries.— N., Nubia and Kordofan ; W., the unexplored
regions of Central Africa ; S., the Biisin of the Zambese ; E.,
Zangnebar and the uountry of the Gallas ; lat. 11° N. — 10° S. ;
Ion. 27°— 37" E.
It thui embraces 21° of lat and half ns tnany of loc. The ei^nator,
Khich posBss through the centre, cnta C. Lopei in Western AfncH, L.
Tictoiia Nyauza, ths islands Sumatra and Bomec, Quitfl, and the mouth
ot the riTer Ajnaran.
Area and Population. — The area mny be approximately estimntcil
— 780,000 aq. m., and the population at 10,500,000, or eeven times
e oreai of the British Isles, with oue-third their population.
PoIlUesl DlTlslonB. — These cannot be given as yet with any degree
|af Biactitnde, owing to onr imperfect acquointauce with the country,
^d tha brief aojoura there of the distingnished travellers above
Duned. One or the largest kingdoms in the interior of Africa is
Dnyamneri, S. of Lake Victoria Nyanza, of abont the same size as
Scotland. West of this state, but on the E. side of Lake Tangan-
yika, is the country of Hjiji. The shores of this lake were survByed
by Lieutenant Cameron in 187*, who found that it has an outlet
on its western side, named the Lukuga. Thia river he has traced to
its confluence nith the Lualaba, which, he has no doubt forms the
head-waters of the Congo. Between the Lakes Yictoria Nyanza and
jUbertNyanaiare the small stattB of Uganda, Korsgue, andUnyoro;
S. of the Victoria Lake are Dzinza and Usukuma; and on the E.
side, Ururi, Ugeyeya, and Usofta. The E. half of tha npper baain
of die NUe, as far S, as the equator, has been wrested by Egypt
from theG^laa. This powerful and warlike people, after aubjuj^ating
a large portion of the SomUi country, have penetrated into the in-
terior, crossed the Nile near its eources, and in the rich pasture-lands
ofUnyort^ between the two great lakes, have founded the great king-
dom of Kittara, Here they have lost their religion, forgotten theii'
language, and changed their national name to 'Wohuma, no longer re-
isembering the name of Gallas. Beferring the reader for a descrip-
tion of the head-waters of the Nile, and [he lakes forming or con-
tiguous to its source, to the artiole "Afrioil" ^. M4), we diall hero
^ve a brief epitome of the principal disooreiiea of Button and Speke
la this region ; —
_ On the 6lli of Fi'branrT lKi7. Cmitmri! Riirton nw! ."^i.tlie S£t oul from
500 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
people are industrious * the husband and children labour in the fields and
tend the cattle, while tne women provide wood and water, pound the com
in a mortar, bake the bread, and take care of the younu?. Both sexes,
however, are described as dirty, diseased, and ill fed. The siUtan, who ^^
is named Kimwere, rules, like African kings generally, by t^e sale of his
subjects. He is a thorough despot, and sells without remorse man and
woman, gentle and simple, by families and hv villages. He has a body-
guard of 400 musketeers ; his person is sacred, and even a runaway slave
IS pardoned if successful in touching his majesty. Having finished this
experimental journey, our travellers returned to Pangajii, a place of con-
siderable commerce ; for besides Zanzibar rafters (which are cut in the
river), holcus, maize, and ghee, it exports annually to Zanzibar about
35,000 lb. of ivory, the finest and largest in the world ; 1760 lb. of black
rhinoceros horn, and 160 lb. of hippopotamus-teeth. On the 26th June
1857, and after the rainy season had terminated, they left Zanzibar on
their great journey into the interior. Their party consisted of twelve
Bilucms, furnished by the Sultan of Muscat, some ne^es who had been
slaves, and asses for the transport of goods and for ridmg. Reaching the
mainland at Bagamoyo (lat. o**), at the mouth of the river Kingani, they
proceeded along the coast to Eaole, 10 m. farther S., and thence westwam
into the interior. Passing over the low hilly country called M'rima, they
entered the coast-range of mountains, here called the Rubeho chain, which
rises to a maximum altitude of 5646 ft., with a width of about 90 m.,
and composed of sandstone and crystalline rocks. Crossing this range
through the Gomo Pass, 2200 ft. hi^h, and 120 m. from the coast, they
began their descent to the great intenor plateau, which is at a much lower
leveL Travelling over some poor lands, they reached a rich country in
which knolls or bosses of granite and basalt rise up like rocks in an ocean.
This country is exclusively peopled by negroes, none of whom are Mo-
hammedans, like the Som&lis and trading Arabs of the coast ; but, like
the negroes described by Livingstone, they have no special religion, trust-
ing solely to good and evil spirits. Such of them as have sultans are on
the whole, peaceable — firearms being rare among them. Their country
produces cotton, tobacco, maize, sweet-potatoes, a great variety of pulses,
manioc, yams, plantains, and melons. They have made considerable
advances in civilisation, manufacture iron, produce cotton fabrics, have
abundance of cows and goats, and live in comparative comfort. The
climate, however, is very prejudicial to Europeans : at Zim^omero, in
Khutu, lat. 5° S., and about 200 m. from the coast. Captain Burton was
seized with an intermittent fever, which prostrated him for 20 days, and
almost every man belonging to his party came by turns asking meidicixie ;
but at Ugogo, some distance farther to the W., where the elevatioii is
greater, the climate is reported to be clear and healthy. From Xai6| in
Unyanyemb^, a spot where the Arab traders have established a sort ol
mart, and where articles from the coast are bartered for ivoiv and sUvas,
the travellers moved westerly until they reached the long inland mass ol
water trending S. to N. , the name of which is Tanganyika. It was ctossed
by Speke in me centre, and navigated coi^'ointly with Burton to nesr its
northern end, where it is surrounded by mountains ranging from 6000 to
7000 ft. in altitude. Possessing no known outlet,* its waters areperfBcUy
fresh and agreeable ; it abounds in delicious fish, while its basks an
grazed by red oxen with stupendously long horns. O^m, indood, an
common over nearly all the region examined, for the isetm ftj, fha seoiw
of the more southern African countries, is here whoUr viikiiown. "^
western shores of the laWe axe ^^'^ aii^ VAiuQL^s&al, siracding manj
reizient harbours, and Tequxnx^^ W^i aUXM^^ v^Xa laikib^fik^gifiii^ v
♦ But Ba»V. *«"**•
REGION OF THE GKEAT 1
tniB Whita Nile.
........ . „ " 13 fnmoua ti
HonrcB of the Nils Uiua discoveicd, but wi
with the key that unlocka the iini"
Setuniing to their chief central station in UuyanyHnb*,
Spefca left his inVBlid commnion, in order to reach the great Ibmb Victoria
NyanHi, ths position of which had been pointed ont to him by the Arabs,
who asaerteil that it vaa much longer ancL larser than Tanganyika, from
which it lies in a north-easterly direction, and at a distance of 240 m.
The Victoria Lake la aitnated nnder the eqnatOI, ita S. extremity being
in 2° ate S. laL It ia upwards of 300 m. long, about 90 m. broad, and
ahoQt 3800 ft. aboTe the Bea-level. It ia studded with numeroua islands,
and its waters are sweet and good. It receivea a multitude of rivets on
all sides, eave its N. extremity, at which it discharges iU surplus waten
by the KiTira (or Masaba), which Gipt Speke believed to be ths White
Hile. Baker, however, has since provcil that the Maeabs, after flowing
N.W. for about 250 ni., enters the N.E. corner of another huge lake,
which he has named the Albert Nj-anza, in honour of the lata Prince
Consort ; that a short distance from its entrance into the lake, it again
a mighty riyer, flowing due N. ; and that this river is the
*'-■'- To Speke, therefore, belongs the immortal honour
r.i.., r 1 — ^jj^ jigj ijjjjy jj the main
I at the same time supplied
. stery connected with that
eciodical innndations, on which, for ages, so much fruit-
a been expended. Tbe rainy season in the region im-
mediately 8. of the two lakes commences on the 15th November, and ends
on the ISth May, during which period of six months the rain falls in an
slinost continuous downpour, flooding all the rivers ov
area of country. The Nile b^ns to nse in Egjitt about
Ktice, and attains ita greatest height almut the autumnal
ingdue allowance fortlie time required to fill these enon
and forthe great length of the jonniey which tlieir waters must tr
before they arrive in Ejppt, there appears no real discrepancy b(
the respective seasons of llie two phenomena— the rainy season und
equator, and the rise of the Nile in Lower Egypt.
Cuneron'a DisooTeries, — Lieutenant Cameron, who wo» sent i
aenrch of Dr Livingstone, arriveil at TJjiji in Pebmaty
. careful survey of the S. and W. shores of Tanganyika, hs found, to bis
great joy, that the lake has an outlet, named the Lukuga, on its wexteru
side, about lat. 6° S. He was informed the Liikugn flowed into the Lua-
laba. which, accotding to Livingstone, issiies from Lake Baogweolo, and
ED«eeda N.W. tlirou^ Lakes Uoero and Kamolonda. Contrair i^ il—
lief of Livingstone, Cameron showa that the Lnalabo cannot now in
the Nile, inasmuch as the latter, even at Gondokoro, is EOO feet aboTS tb
level of the Lunlnba ti Nyongwe. After making this notable discovei
Cameron pm^ued bli caimB weatwanl thiough the ^reat valley at '
Lualaba, which be dBscrflK:i lu a iiuiLjidlktHt aj- -■ • - ■'' ■— -■
— eakaWe ri.'l,..f, i i..- ■
-■entll...!
After a
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
NORTH AMERICA.
1. Position and Boundaries. — Including Greenland and
Central America, this large division of the globe is bounded on
the N. by the Arctic Ocean ; on the W. ana S. by the Pacific ;
and on the £. by the Isthmus of Panama, the Caribbean Sea,
the Gulf of Mexico, and the Atlantic Ocean. It extends &om
the 7th to about the 82d degree of N. lat., and from the 20th to
the 168th degree of W. Ion., thus embracing 76° of lat. and 148°
of Ion.
North America lies wholly within the northern hemisphere, having its
southern extremity within seven degrees of the equator, and its northern
within about the same number from the north pole. Of the six great
continents of the globe it is the third in size, and the fourth as regEuda
population.
2. Forxii, Coast-Line, and Extreme Points. — The general form of
the continental portion is that of a scalene triangle, with the longest
side fronting the Pacific, and the shortest the Atiantio. If a line be
drawn from G. Prince of Wales in Behring Strait to C. Charles in
Labrador, we have approximately the line of the Arctic coast, front-
ing the N.K Then if we connect the extremities of this line with
Acapulco in Mexico, we shall have the other two sides.
The mainland rarely extends farther north than the 70ih paralle^ being
separated from the great American Ard)ii)elago by Hudson Strait, Fox
Channel, Gulf of Boothia, Bellot Strait, Franklin Channel, Yictaria
Strait, Dease Strait, and Coronation Gulf; nor farther east than Cape
Charles in Labrador, in Ion. 55** 3(y W. Great Salt Lake, near the. cen-
tre of this area, is on the same parallel of latitude with New ToiIl Mad-
rid, Rome, Constantinople, and Peking ; and on the same metrioiau as
Great Slave Lake, Cape San Lucas, and Easter Island in Polynesia. Tbm
extreme length, from the Isthmus of Panama to Cape Lisbnm, in Aliaska,
is about 5600 m. ; the extreme breadth, from Cape Canso, in Move Scotia^
to the mouth of the river Oregon, 3120 m. Murchison Promontoiyy in
Boothia Felix, lat. 72'', is the most northern point of tiie continent ; Ctaipa
Prince of Wales, in Behring Strait, Ion. 168* W., the moat westam:
Mariato Point, in the Bay of Panam^ lat. 7° 11', the most aootham; and
Cape Charles, in Labrador, Ion. ^^"^ 4Q' W., the most eastern. Jjwwdhig
the larger indentations, the co;];s\.Am«\& ^i^maX^v^^fioKsoX^MIi^m.,^ V
r
503
1 m. of aeiboard for every 365 m. of suif&ce ; wliile Europe has 1 for
erer; 225 m. The Arctic and Atlantic coasts are nearty equal in length,
Uid ore aiike ia having each one great and many amallei- indentatiaiis.
Tha Pacific coast is much langur, and is unlike the others in having but
few indentations, while its solitary iuloiid sea (the G. of California) id
narrow, and parallel to tbe coast.
3. Area and Population. — The area is still very uncertain, but,
includiug Greenland, the West Indies, and Central America, it i»
eatimatBd at 8,G91,1S7 ai^. m., or 2] timp^ the size of Europe, and
; of the British Isles. Tbe popnlation, according to the
ot the varioasstates, Binount3_tp68,900,iI8,or a
EtUe more than i
ther more than six persona tc
4. Polltloal Dlvlaiona, — The total nnmbar of separate and inde-
Bndent states is about 76 ; but if we regard the United States, the
ixican Confederation, and tbe West Indies as one state each, the
number wiU be reduced to eleven. The following table coutains the
name, position, area, population, capital, and other particulars of the
dilFerent states : —
Table op North American States
._.„^™,.
K^JU
S^
'
'^B,^'^
British H.America, la
B,MS,4M
a.8so,isi
OtUwa, *o.
Ottswi
of Brit N. America,
DDited SUM. S. Df
Brit. X. America,
Me.iiaDCocftd..a.W.
SBD.OOD
3.Mfl.SS4
773, 1 S6
S8,»a5,S99
9, 270. ore
ELW. coaat.
Poloin.OL
kteileo.
1
Csntnl America, ft.E.
MexIcBDConrsd,—
GuiMmtli, . .
Eondonn. N.E. at
Ban Salvador, .
Ni^aeai, ati. of
GoiURIea,'8.B of
De^lTT-BritW,
HanilBnui,N.E.Ot
W«tIlirti«.E-'»tb«.-»
tralAmertat. . . f
(188.aM)
M.JTT
4",«1
[l.M5,110)
i,m.m
6UQ.O0D
asLroo
UoDlaguiL
L lIopBDgO.
i
■
M.1S7
!i,m
M,OM
I39.C00
«.Tie
SuiJoai.
"•Tam.Ac
Uke Leon.
RioGruide.
N.W.«o.Cnl«.
I
504 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
5. Snr&ce. — The surface of North America consists of three widely
dissimilar regions — a western, an eastern, and a centraL The first,
or western, forms the great backbone of the continent, consisting of
one enormous highland, extending without interruption from the
Arctic Ocean in the north to the vicinity of Lake Nicaragua, and
continued thence, though lower and less regular, to the Isthmus of
Panama.
This plateau, which is of very moderate elevation in the north, increases
in height as we advance southward, till, in the lat. of Acapnlco, it reaches
8000 ft., and then descends rapidly towards the Isthmus of Panama It
attains its greatest width about the 40th parallel, where its elevation is
about 5000 feet. The plateau is fringed on either side and throughout
its entire length by a gigantic mountain-range — that on the eastern side
being called the Rocky Mountains, and that on the western the Sierra
Nevada and Cascade ranges. In general^ the moimtains attain their lofti-
est elevations where the plateau sustainmg them has its greatest width ;
but at both ends of the high land are many volcanoes of great elevation
— the peak of Popocatepetl, near Mexico, being the loftiest summit of the
continent (see under ''Mountains"). The Eastern or Atlantic highland
is much narrower and shorter than the Western. It extends from Hud-
son Strait, in Labrador, to the G. of Mexico, is about 2500 m. long, with
a breadth varying from 150 to 200 m., except in Labrador, where it
exceeds 400 m. It lies opposite the middle portion of the pi eat western
highland, inclining towards it in the south — ^thus giving a tnaneular form
to the continent. The St Lawrence divides it into two unequal parts— a
northern and a southern— the latter being by far the longer, and support-
ing the loftier mountain-chain — ^viz., the Allegheny Mountains, which
attain in Black Mountain a height of 6707 ft.
The Third Region, or great Central Plain, extends from the AlleghiUiies
to the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains, and from the Arctic Ocean
to the Gulf of Mexico. It is triangular in fonn, broad at the north and
narrow at the south, and embraces several of the largest lakes and river-
basins in the world. A crescent-shaped water-parting about the parallel
of 48°, and of about 1500 ft. in elevation, divides it into two ^reat slopes
— a northern and a southern. The former has an average elevation of from
600 to 700 ft, Lake Superior, in the south, being only 627 ft above the
sea, and the basin of the Saskatchewan not much higher. The southern
slope mainly consists of the huge basin of the Mississippi, the highest
part of which does not exceed 850 ft., while its average height ia only
about 600 ft.
6. Peninsulas and Isthmuses. — The principal peninsulas are,
Labrador and Nova Scotia on the E. side of British America ; Flor-
ida, bet. the Atlantic and G. of Mexico ; Yucatan, bet. G. of
Mexico and the Caribbean Sea; Lower Califoipiia, separatiiig the
Pacific Ocean from the G. of California ; Aliaska, separating the
Pacific Ocean from the Sea of Kamtchatka. Isthmus of Chigneeto,
8 m. wide, connecting Nova Scotia with the continent ; Isthmtii of
Tehuantepec, 130 m. wide, separating the G. of Mexico tmn, the
Pacific Ocean ; Isthmus of Panama, 30 m. wide, conneotiiiff Oentnl
with South America. The remaining isthmuses have no d&tiiiBtivo
names.
7. Capes and Islands.— Farewell, S. of Greenland ;* C^ndli
* C. Columbia, Grant Land Gat. S3* 70i is the most northem kaowa hr
the globe.
r
^ anil
NORTH AMERICA. 505
I
and Cbu-lea, tlie N.E. and S.E. extremities of Labrador; Race,
8.E. of Hewfoimdland ; Sable, S.W. of Nova Scotia; ^nne and
Cod gnard the entrance of HassachasettB Bay f Hatteraa, E. of
North Carolina ; Sable, 8. of Florida ; Cfltoohe, N.E. of yncatac ;
Gracios a Dioa, E. of Honduras ; Comentes, 'W. of Mexico ; St
Lacaa, S. of Lower California ; Concepglon, Meadocino, Blanco,
and FlatteiT, W. of tlis United States ; Newenham, RoDumzoff,
Prince of Wales and Lisbume on the W. coaat, and Icj Cape and
Point Barrow on the N. coast of Alastca ; C. Bathurst and Hnr-
diigon Promontory in Hudson Bay Territory. The ifllflnda of
North America mity be conveniently arranged under three heaiia,
eorreaponding with tha three oceans in vrhicli tbey are respectively
dtaat«d.
In Iht Aniie Ortan,— Greenland, N.E, of British Amerfoa, from which
it ia separat»l by the Greenland Sea. Davia Btrait^ Baffin Bay, Bouth
Bouoii, and Kennedy Channel ; the Parry group, including Grinnell Land
or Elleamere (lat. 76° Siy— 81° Sff), North Devon, Cornwallia, and Mel-
ville Island, W. of Northern Greenland; Banks Land, Prinze Albert
Land, Prince of Wales I., N. Somerset, and Coclihuro I., between the
Parry Ifl. and the mainland, h iht Allantie. — Newfonndlnnd, Anticosli,
Prince Edward I. , and Cape Breton, B. of Labrador ; Long Island, B. E.
of New York ; the Bermndaa, 680 ra. E. of South Carolma ; the West
Indies, between Florida and South America, aJid embracing two minor
gnnipa—viz., the Bahamas, B.E. of Florida, and the AntUlea, S. of the
Bahamas, separatini; the Atlantic from the Caribbean Sea. Ik the Faafc.
—Vancouver I. and Queen Charlotta I., W. of British America; Prince
of Wales I., Sitka, Kodiac, and Aleutian Archipelago, S. of Alaska ;
Clark 1., 1b Behring Strait
a BeaB, BsjB, and BtraltB.— Baffin Hay and Davis Strait, be-
tween Qraenland and the North American Arcbipelago ; Hudson
Strait, between Labrador and the Archipclafpi ; Hndson Bay or Sea,
W. of Labrador J Fox Channel, Gulf of Boothia, Bellot Strait, Vic-
toria Strait, Coronation Gulf, and Prince Albert Sound, between the
mainland and the Archipelago ; Lancaster Sound, Barrow Strait,
and Melville Sound, nejNirating the Farry groap from Uie gontherji
Sirt of the Archipelago ; Strait of Bslleiale, b«tweett Labrador and
ewfoundland ; Gulf of St l.nwrence, between Newfoundland and
New Brunswick; Bny i'' "-■-■■'- '-■ >•! Nora Soetia awl New
Brunswick j Chesanent:.' > ■ 'ind Maryland ; Golf of
Mexieo, between Ueii .tts • Yucatan Channel,
between Yucatan iiuii Sea, between Central
America and tlie Wf' u.nni. S.W. of Central
rii:ai; Gulf of Cl. '■.'■ ii! Juan do
, between Unit"! ■ n Chnrlotle
id, between Vaiii- . Uilntaml
istcl Bay. S. of A: M:i-t.« ami
. BTountftlDC. ' — T^i-'
506i POLITIOAL OEOORAPHT.
are separated from each other by the great central plain already de-
scribed (p. 504).
The Alleghanies or Appalachian Chain, 2000 m. in lengi^ by
about 150 m. in breadth, extend from Point Gasp^ in the Gulf of 8t
Lawrence to the State of Alabama, and divide tne waters which flow
eastward into the Atlantic from the two great basins of the Mississippi
and the St Lawrence. Average elevation, about 2500 ft. ; highest sum-
mits—Mitchell's Peak, in N. Carolina, 6782 ft. ; Mount Washington, in
New Hampshire, 6428 ft. ; Black Mountain, bet. Tennessee and North
Carolina, o707 ft ; and Green Mountains, in Lower Canada, 4000 ft.
The Western or Paoifio System, better known as the Rookt
Mountains, consists of two, and in some places of three, parallel chains,
supported by elevated table-lands, and extending in the direction of the
greatest length of the continent, from the Arctic Ocean to Lake Nicar-
agua in Central America. The two principal ranges, with their highest
summits, are the following :— 1. The Padnc or Oceanic Sange, extend-
ing along the western coast, from Alaska to the peninsula of California,
forms the water-parting bet. the Padfic Ocean on the west, and the
Youcon and Rio Colorado on the east. Its principal members are : The
Sea Alps in the north, extending from lat. 60** in Alaska to the mouth
of the Frazer River in British Columbia, of volcanic orinn, and forming
some of the highest summits on this continent, — Mt. St Elias, 17,900
ft, highest in N. America. The Cascade Range, from the mouth of the
Frazer to Cape Blanco, in Oregon, — Mt. St Helens, N. of the Columbia,
the highest sunmiit of the United States, 15,750 ft. ; Mt. Hood and Mt
Jefferson, S. of the Columbia, 15,500 ft. The Sierra Nevada, e](tending
from Cape Blanco to Cape San Lucas, and separated from the eastern
range by the basin of the Rio Colorado, — Mt. Tsashti, in the N. of Cali-
fornia, 14,400 ft. 2. The Becky Mountain Chain forms a waving line
along the eastern side of the great table-land, from the mouth of the
^Mackenzie in the Arctic Ocean to near Lake Nicaragua in Central
America, and separates the basins of the Colville, Youcon, Frazer, Col-
umbia, and Rio Clolorado on the west, from those of the Mackenzie, Sas-
katchewan, Missouri, Arkansas, and Rio del Norte on the east. Its
principal members are : The Northern Range, extending from the Nor-
thern Ocean to the northern frontier of the United States, — Mt. Brown,
east of British Columbia, and the culminating point of British America,
15,990 ft. ; Mt. Hooker, 15,700 ft. The Wind River Mountain, be-
tween Oregon and Nebraska ; highest summit, Freemont's Peak, 18,5^
ft Sierra Verde and Sierra Madre, in Utah and New Mexico, — Long's
Peak, 12,000 ft. ; Bighorn, 10,000 ft. Mountains of Anahuac, in sonui-
em Mexico, extending from east to west across the table-land, and all
volcanic, — Orizaba, an extinct volcano, 17,847 ft ; Popocatepetl, for*
merly regarded as the highest summit of North America, 17,884 ft. ;
Agua, in Guatemala, 13,000 feet
10. River-basins and Capitals All the rivers of this continexit
belong to four great oceanic basins — viz., those inclining to the Atlan*
tic, to the American Mediterranean (the Gulf of Mexico and Gaiibbean
Sea), to the Pacific, and to the Arctic Ocean. Besides these, thers
are two continental basins, similar to those of the continenti of th«
Old World — viz., first, the Great Basin, in Utah and Nevada, whem
the table-land is widest : its average elevation is 5000 ft. above ^'^
sea, and it occupies an area of more than 800,000 sq. m. : it '
tains Great Salt Lake (which receives the Bear and ilie Sotf
r
^mm
NORTH AMEEICA.
507
ly others whicli are salt, and have no outlet. SkoivI, a de-
pression in the tahle'lnad of Mexico, where it is highest, and where
occnr L. Tezcuco, vhicli ia salt, nod four others T^liich are cither
freeh or bracliish, "Sai a few of the larger river-haaina eunnierated
in the following table contain no capitaiB, whila the area of several
others remains andetennined. When the name of the statu diifera
from that of the capital, it ia put within parentheses ; —
Bme -rai-.r oi
st'S'^-
— — ~
S
24Ei
•ulined to t
12.000
lothtAm
062,400
180,000
10,000
13.000
8.000
Albuiy (>ew York).
Trenlon pJew jMtBy).
Annapolis (MaryUod), Harrls-
burB(FendsylvBnla), Riuhiuonil
sir '"■'"" "'•
ruan UeiiUrranean.
fart (Keutuckf], CUlnmbui
Tapeka (Kanwal. Lincnln <Na-
Ees ifoinM (Iowa). UadiaoD
(WlscoDnln).
YbiiWod (Dakota). HeJea.. (M on-
t»M), Che«BDB (Wromlng),
I>«iver (Colorado), Aiiatin
Sail la' Fi (New Ueiio), Ohibua-
Bna''jium Ba"t1"» (TiilHatii),
Ci»daa Ilo=l (CUUipu).
Leon (tcicnngua).
.■■tL.i,,,™,.ut-ltt(I,!i,liu}.
::ii>n.U|(l!tUI>]>CnlURI-
DeUnn
!, Zforin.
Uissiraippl
Nr.rte,™ °
flif f
POUTICAL OEOORAFflir.
.-«- \m
^:
— — - — -
*. BatlntintliHtd 10 04 Arab 0e4an.
MKkeiut. im M1.SM Kotowiu.
BackoraFWi,... 4M
ChorehQl, 1800 TS.SM
ch^n IMO m.m FortTnittHaiiltob*).
11. Lakea One of the ptindpal pecnlimties of thii continent a
the immenw number and maRnitude of its freah-water lakes, some
of which (as Lakes Snperior, Michignn, and Huron) are the IsrgMt
in the world. Arranged in the order of the river-baiins in which
they occur, the following are the lareest lakes of N. Anerica. It
will be observed that the principal lakca are conGned to the basini
of the St Lawrence, Mackenzie, and Saskatchewan, and that the
cotnbiaed area of the five great Lanrentian lakes amounts to Sl,300
aq. m., or more than the area of Great Britain with its adjacent
islands. The indiridnal areas of the principal lakea are appended
in a tabular form.
Sc £awrni« Sana — I^akes OntsHo, Erie, Huron, Michigan, and
Superior. ifiirUiippi — Lake Itasca, in Minneaota, fonning the souree
of the river. San Jttan — Nicaragua and Leon, in C^tial AJioerioa. Jtte
Saniioffo—I&ki Chapala, iu Mexico. JKaeitnlie— Great Bear Lake,
Great Slave Lake, Athabssia, Lesser Slave Lake, WoUaitton. CkmcMU
— Indian Lake, Deer L^ke, 'WollaBton. 5a»to*eS«Bttii— Winnipeg, Winnl-
pegooa, Manitoba, I^ke of the Woods, Bain; Lake. CoKittiaUiU Bam
—Great Salt Lake, Utah, Sevier.
=,.-„.,....
•^i:
abOTB
eetleveL
578
S?
623
m
230
mo
Erie, '...::;. .
9,'600
Mlchrgan,
Sapenor,
Wmnipeg,
22,400
82,000
9,000
Great Bear Lake
Great Slave Lake,
H.O00
12,000
S400
12. OUout*. — In acontinentembradngTSdegreMof Utitild^ud
nearly twice ai many of longitude, the vsrietiet of alimata an n—w
sarily very f^eat. Speaking generally, however, m flM that ite
covi™. ==^f.n„. i,.-^ J lower average temperatnw tlwn ft* CM
varions sections have ■
NUUTII AMERICA. 509
spoudiug latitudes of the Old World. The immensa forests nhich
FDver so large a portion of the surface, the general want of cultiva-
tion or the soil, and, above all, the great width of the continent in
high latitudes, are no doubt some of the niain caTisos that lead to this
resalt. Other causes which affect the climate are the poaition of its
mountain-ran^ea and of the sarroniiding aeaa, together with the
great ocean currents traversing the latter. The eaatem highland,
with ita slope towarda the Atlautic, has an abundance of moisture
throughout the year, brought by southerly and easterly winds from
the Oulf of Mexico aod the Atlautic. The western highland, on the
contrary, ia very dry, aa the moisture which the weaterlj winds
ehotild bring to it from the Pacific ara arrBstod at the margin of the
plateau by the lofU mountains of the Sierra Nevada and Cascade
rangea. The annual rainfall at Utah in this region is only about 5
in., while at New York, on the east coast, and nearly in the same
latitude, it ia 43 in. The eastern half of the great Mississippi baain
is sufficiently watered, the moisture increasing in amount Irani N.
to S. — Si Louis haviag an annual rainfall of 42 in., and New Orleana,
near the month of the river, 51 in. ; but the western half of this
basin is less humid, and especially the immense tract lying between
the Itocky Mounlaina and the lOOtb meridian, known as the
" Plaina, where acarcely any rain falls, and the country is covered
with a thin growth of grass, agriculture being nearly impassible.
In genemJ, North Anienea is more humid than the corresponding
continents of the Old World. The average rainfall of Europe is only
SI in., bot the corresponding zoue of K. America 3B in.; and while the
tropii»l zone of the Old World shows 77 in., that of the New World
is lis in. Again, in regard to temperature, the western side of the
continent is greatly warmer than the eastern, the reason being that a
warm oceanic current proceeding from Japan lavea the western cnast,
while a cold Arctic cnrrent flows southwani along the eastern, l)e-
tween the coast and the wann Gulf Stream flowing northward. The
diSerence of temperature between the W. and E. coast is generally
from 15° to 20°. For example, Sitka I. has a mean annual tempera-
ture of 4S° Fah., while Nain, in Labrador, in the same latitude, has
H mean temperature of only 27°.82. The hottest portion of the
New World, embracing the Gulf of Mexico, the Carnoean Rea, and
the coastfl immediately adjoining them, lies mainly within this con-
tinent. The coldest ret-ion of North America and of the New World
lies north of a line which, commencing at Cape Bathmst, near the
mauth of the Maekenxie, defleHs south -eastwards to the head of
Chesterfield Inlet, and thince nortlwarils to Lanaaator Sound and
North Devon (p. 38).
13. GeoloKT. — The geologiml slmrturn of North America rcinaiu*
to a laigB eitenc unexplored, Caiuda onrl the United StttlHt being
the only portions that have rMciw4|^HWrtf Mt|BMeB^_
_. J understood, however, t
orater put of Alaska, BiUtiU Q
510 POUTICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Greenland, though its western shores are coTered with primary and
tertiary formations ; that the paubozoic group occupy the surface of that
part of the continent lying between the Rocky Mountains and the great
lakes, together with the western and southern shores of the Hudson Sea,
and the north-western portion of the great American archipdago ; that
SECONDARY FORMATIONS prevail cliiefly in the United States, especially
between the Rocky Mountains and the Missouri ; and that the tebtiart
SERIES is chiefly prevalent in the great western plateau which extends
from the Arctic Ocean to the G. of California. The principal volcanoes
and volcanic rocks occur in the Peninsula of Aliaska, the oceanic range of
the Coscada Mountains, the table-lands of Utah, Mexico, and Central
America, parts of Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, Labrador, and Greenland.
For further details we refer the student to the corresponding x)aragraphs
of the different countries of this continent.
14. Minerals. — Ever since its discovery, in the beginning of the
fifteenth century, North Ajnerica has been celebrated for the rich-
ness and varie^ of its mineral productions. The mines first wrou^t
were those of Mexico and Central America; but recently California
and British Columbia have eclipsed all other countries, with the
exception of Australia, in their inexhaustible supply of the predous
metaOs.
We can here enumerate only the principal localities in which the most
important minerals occur. Gold is principally found in California, British
Columbia, Mexico, Central America, Canada, and the Alleghany Moun-
tains. SilveTf Central America, California, Canada, and in a vast number
of localities on the table-land of Mexico. Copper, Canada, especially N.
and E. of Lake Superior (which is one of the richest copper regions on
the globe), New York, Indiana, California, Mexico, Central America.
Lecutf Illinois, Wisconsin, Missouri, New York, California, Mexico^
Central America, Canada. Tin, Mexico, Canada (near Lake Superior).
Zinc, Central Ajnerica. Iron, the Alleghanies, and numerous localities
in the United States, Mexico, Central America, Canada. Mercury, Ken-
tucky, Ohio, California, and the region S. of the great lakes. Cinnabar,
or sulphuret of mercury, California, Mexico. Coal, generally whererer
the upper palseozoic strata abound, as in Pennsylvania. Michigan, Iowa,
Missouri, California, Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, British Columbia^ Van-
couver Island. Sulphur, Central America, especially in Guatemala. Salt,
Utah, New York, Pennsylvania, Virginia, Massachusetts, Kentucky,
Illinois, Missouri, Mexico, Honduras. Marlle, Canada, United States,
Honduras. Precious Stones : diamonds in Odifomia, jasper in Honduxas.
15. Botany. — The flora of North America, including Central
America and the West Indies, embraces wholly or in part no fewer
than six of the twenty-five ** phyto-geographic regions ** into which
the land surface of the globe is divided — viz., the 1st, 4th, 5th, 15th,
16th, and 19th regions. For the names and precise limits of fheae
regions we must refer to p. 54 and 55, and for their more striking
characteristics to the botanical sections under Europe, Britiu
America, the United States, Mexico, Central America, and ths
West Indies.
The New World has lon^ been famed for the prodigious luziixiaiiQt
And variety of its vegetation. MtVow^^-w^ «»^m \xotcl \M.va^miinilel7
HOKTB ASKSICA.
511
I
, JntflJ n-itii itfi natttPil biirtoTj, it ihbj- lie affirniea intliout hesit*-
ftitm, that no otlier portjon of the world oF eqim] extent con nraT it in
"te lichee and splendour of its Adib. Bevera] years ago mure than IG.DOO
W ^pedu of Soweriit^ plants had heen described as bdon^lsE to it, beeidca
■ ^nnate DUiuher of cryjitoganiia- When the unrthern continent
ired, one tasl and almost eontmuoos forest covered the whole
nuface. from tJie St Lavrouce and the great lakec tc the G. of Mejico,
and Irom the Kcicky Mouutaine to tlie AtlontiCj embrai^ing an area of
apvarde of s million of aqniue mileE. Mnch of this DceaD ol regetatioa
bae since ijeea cleared any. though, to thia daj, husdredB of milec of
nnbmken forest exist in Qumerone localitiw ; wmlB bonndlesB prairieB,
destitute of trees, hut covered vitii tall erasaeB, □ccup; vast tracts in the
north ol the continent, aod an the eastern aide of the Bocky Hountains.
The fareBt trees are extremely nuiiierons in apBdea, embracing many
vsrietias of Dak and pine, with the ash, beech, birch, radar, cHeetnu^
(TI'resE, juniper, hickorr, locnat, maple, molheny, poplar, and walnut.
As the traveller paues ncrthirards into the Britiah territories, the variety
of Epeciea a mm II it, embracing mainly pinea, larches, aspens, poplsrs,
aldma, hazels, and viltowa ; while towards the ehores of the Arctic
Ocean the treas become fewer in number and more stunted m eize, till at
length the dwarf-willow, six incbea in height, is the sole itjireaentative
of toe gigantic forsEte of the tropical and temperate regions. Among til*
more characteristic plants of ^ orth America are its azaleas, magnnliaa,
loi^haiaa, dahliai, snri ihodudendrons ; while the enrire cactus tribe is
peculiar to its tropical regions. Europe is indebted to the western con-
-^ * ' • .' ^.- cultivated plants, more espadally maiie, cacao-
manioc or cassava, the potato, and the toluiccti
jdant; while, on the other hand, America is indelrtad to European colon-
-"■■■■'■" ^"' "'■i,'^* i.*„i„,. ^..j 4i.« Q^Qf kinds of com, as also for rice,
tree, tlie sugar-cane, Uis coffee-shmb, flax, hemp, and
. America does not contain a single indigenous species
tie. nor has a psonin ever been found in it, except a aoli-
ad by Douglas on the Pacific side of the Bocky Uoun-
ghty chain forms an impenettshle bnrrier between '
laioB. This n:
. 1 character us if they had been geparatedby an
ocean. Helville Island, lat. To°, is the moat DSrtbern point at wtaieh
vegetation has been obseryed ; while the Red ffiyer BetUenient^ on tjie
soDthem frontier of the Hudson Bav Temtmy, is the highest laOtude at
which the oereals have been cullivateri ; llmagli doubtless barler conld
oome to maturity as far N. u Fort C'iiippewyan, lat. 69°, where the heal
of the four suminer months is fnnr d»ereB! higher *hmi at Edinbnrrii.
16. Z
-Tht f
Kiteaico and (:Biitnil >-.
512
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
those countries as forming the third or tropical province of the northern
continent. The zoology of the first or Arctic province of North America
closely resembles, and is, indeed, for the most part^ identical with, that
of the corresponding province in Europe and Asia. Here the species are
comparatively very few in number, and consist generally of the lowest
orders of the respective classes ; but this is in a large measure compen-
sated for by the extraordinary number of individuals belonging to tiie
different species, and occasionally, as in the case of the whfues, by the
gigantic dimensions of the forms. The colours are also of uniformly
sombre hues. Not a bird is to be seen of brilliant plumage, not a fish
nor mollusc with varied hues. The most conspicuous Mammals of tMs
province are the white and polar bear, the moose and rein-deer, the
musk-ox, beaver, white fox, racoon, marten, squirrel, sea-otter, minx,
musk-rat, ermine, wolverine, lemming, hare, various seals, and numerous
species of whale. Among Birds may be enumerated some sea-eagles, a
few waders, with an immense number of other aquatic species, — as gulls,
cormorants, divers, petrels, ducks, and geese. Reptiles are almost
wholly wanting, being represented by a solitary tortoise. The Articxt-
LATA embrace a few insects of inferior species and numerous kinds of
minute crustaceans. The majority of the Molluscs belong to the order
Tunicata, the remainder being Gasteropoda and a very few Cephalopoda.
Among the Radiata are a great many jelly-fishes, star-fishes, ana sea-
urchins. The fauna of the Temperate province of this continent also
resembles that of the central provmces of Europe and Asia ; for, though
the species are almost all different, the families, and even the genera, are
the same. The number of terrestrial species regarded as identical is
con
stantly diminishing as the progress of science advances. For the
particulars, see under " United States," "Mexico," &c. The accompany-
ing tables show the distribution of the land Vertebrata in the three
provinces of this kingdom : —
Nam* op Obdbiu
Totol
Number of
Bpedea.
Total
Species in
Xortli
Americik
Aretie
America.
Tempk
America.
Tropical
AmwioL
M AMMAT.TA OW NORTH AMBRIOA.
Quadrumana, ....
170
8
• • •
..•
8
Camivora,
514
109
86
50
109
Marsupialia,
123
4
• • •
1
4
Rodentia,
604
118
82
60
84
Edentata,
28
12
• • •
1
12
Pachvdermata,
RumiTiantIa, .
89
4
• • «
• ••
4
180
13
10
10
7
Cetacca, .
76
24
24
• ••
• ••
Totals,
1
» 4
»
1733
292
102
122
178
s.^.,
si
.'.as.
J^
:as
BiBDS OF NoRTa Amebic^
Rsp>=<«.
8efliiBQrBs, ....
Oscines, .....
Qallitiie,
Grallatores, ....
Nntatonis, ....
Totals,
:::
G4
127
333
s:
122
10
fi
11
4
21
49
22
12
72
10
36
26
53
122
319
4S
59
0226
772
103
178
621
EEFTILEa OF KOBTH AHZEIC4,
Teatadinas
Saorio,
Ophictia, ...
Amphibia, ....
Totals,
203
2S5
120
20
82
40
1
2
19
8
38
10
20
30
2
857
115
9
93
62
17, EUmograpliy.— The popiUatiou of the New World is presently
estimated at 84,542,000, two-thirila of wLom belong to the northern
contineot (inclading Moxico, Central America, and the West lodiea),
and one-third to the southern. It consists of three pare races— viz.,
the Indians or aborigines, the Negroes or Africans, tlis Cancastans
or Whites (consisting of Enropeans with their descendants), and a
miied race, springing from the union of those of pure hlooi The
European population amounts to aboot a half of ll
the other three divisions are nearly equally •< ;
tiisCiug of about 9.000,000. The Indian |m|
Esquimaui of the uartheru reejoua, nho fj:
probably of a different origin from the olhi^
Vln Mexico alone thev Dumber 5,000,
Kj,0DO,OOO, and in the United Ststea tin
rBonth America, nnlike the nortlisni ooi
derance of the aboriginal and miied I*.
4,435,709 in the United States : 2,000,<
while in Brazil they constitute a full ]ial£<
n the Spanish West Indian
I
now everywhere in the anjojmBOt rf 111
AsTiqornEa.— How AiiiB ■ _ _'
ibonginal tnbes to the rent of mini
tavnived in obwunty, notwithrtimdlliK **
514 POUTICAL GEOGRAPHY.
tions that, during the last half-century, have been instituted in every
department of the subject. After a careful examination of much that has
been written on this very interesting theme, we incline to the opinion
that by far the greater portion of the New World was peopled at different
points, and from different parts of Eastern Asia ; that these migrations,
though all very ancient, took place at distinct and widely-separate peri-
ods ; but that the ancestors of the present aborigines of the eastern part
of North America entered that continent directly from Northern Europe,
and swept before them the comparatively advanced civilisation which had
been developed there before their arrival. The memorials of a population
differing in many important respects from the tribes which roamed in
America at the time of its discovery by C!olumbus — ^yet in other points
strongly resembling them — are found in great numbers throughout the
whole length and breadth of the continent. These memorials have been
discovered in the extreme north-west of the continent, where, however,
they are comparatively few and uninteresting, though apparently of great
antiquity ; around the western and southern shores of the great lakes,
where they have been more carefully examined ; along the Gulf of Cali-
fornia, where in some places they cover the groimd for many leagues ;
and especially in the broad valley of the Mississippi, with its tributaries
the Ohio and Missouri, where they occur in almost incredible numbers
and magnitude. Indeed, so far as the northern continent is concerned,
the valley of the Ohio would appear to have been at one time — probably
about a thousand years ago— the grand centre of power and population
of this now extinct or dispersed people. The works of various kinds
which they erected, the remains of which still exist (the animal mounds,
the conical mounds of sepulture, the sacrificial mounds, the temple
mounds, the sacred enclosures, the beacon mounds, and the systems of
fortification), are evidences of immense resources for so rude an age ; feur
greater, indeed, than are to be found in any other portion of the continent,
except in what would seem to be another and much later centralisation
of the same people in Mexico and Yucatan, where they passed the golden
age of their history. (See p. 555. ) These and other monuments of hoary
antiquity in the so-called New World, lead us irresistibly to the inference,
that the true aborigines of the basin of the Mississippi had made great
progress in the useful and ornamental arts : for not only do we find arrow-
heads, beads, coarse vessels of pottery, stone axes, knives of flint ; but
the sculptured figures of various animals, executed with much skill;
well-chiselled likenesses of the human head ; copper bracelets ; extensive
remains of mining operations and of the manufacture of salt ; and above
all, tablets of curious hieroglj'phics, apparently recording the great events
in their history. Having entered America at its north-west angle^ they
resided for ages between the Rocky Mountains and the Allegbanies, in
every part of which are still seen the memorials of their ancient greatness.
At length, driven southward by fresh hordes of immigrants, they ulti-
mately settled in Mexico, where they attained the climax of their civilisa-
tion, and erected great cities and other public works which excited tiiQ
astonishment of Oortez and his companions. How many centuries must
have elapsed ere this primeval race, that had made such astonishing pro-
gress in so many of the arts, but of whose existence both history and
tradition are alike silent — whose colossal public works have beoii buried
for ages under gigantic forests, or deserted by the riven and lakM In
whose vicinity manv of them must have stood— could have degMMwited
into the savage tribes of hunters and warriors that now roam Ofw tht
forests and prairies of the North American continent 1 • .
NORTH AMEIllCA.
But tliB attempt to trace nny close
bym
i at the9
enta, between the Meiicans nnd the aborigines of South America,
a^^Eaia to Lave entirety faile{i. The Peruriait civiliBation, instead ot
being ac oS^boot from the Mexican, or an improvement upon it, seema
rather to have been spontaneously developed, having its origin and growtti
within the limits of the southern oontinent, and attiuning its climax nnder
the Incas. Techudi and others are of opinion that Mauco Capac. in Peru,
and Quetiacoatl in Mexico, were Buddhist miasionaries who, about A.D.
1000, viaited the American continent with the view of reforming and
elevating the natives. If this eupposition ia well founded, it throwa some
light on the gneation. Whence came the earliest inhabitants of North ami
South America reapectively I and corroborates the hypothesis, that the
civilisation of tlie southern continent was not ilerived from that of the
northern. On the whole, it would appear that while the aborigines of
North America came originally from Mongolia, those of the southem
continent came from Cliina, Jajian, the Malay Archipelago, and other
Tender this supposition sufficiently probable, while their charts and maps
give indications of voyages to the New World (which they designate by
the noma of Too-sang) as early aa the seventh century of our era. With
chains of islands, not far remote from each other, stretching across the
Pacific Ocean from continent to coutineiit— with winds and marine cur-
lanti setting, often tor weeks together, towaida the American shores —
with waiB Co make them Ilea, and cnrioEityorcapiditytomake them rove
— and with casualties to lannch them on voyages the direction or length
of which they knew not— lie need not marvel that the first inhabitants
of the New World should have come originally flum Eastern Asia. Simi-
lar events, though on a smaUer scale, have fiequeutly taken place ui more
resent times. For example, Iceland was discovered m A.I). Slil by Danish
marlnera, bound for the Farlie Isles, but thrown out of their course by
tempests ; Greenland was discovered by a Norwegian in 982 ; Cabral, the
cammondei' of a Portoguese fleet, on his way to the East Indies in the
year 1501, departed so far from the African coast as lo touch the shores
of South America, and thna the discovery of Braiil was purely aocideutal -,
while in 1833, a Japanese jmik was cast ashore on the Ammican coast, at
Cape Flattery, opposite Vanconver Ishind, three men being still alive out
ot an ariginal crew of aeventeau.
LANQEJAacs.— The languages spoken by the aborigines of the New
World are distinguished from oil Oriental tongues by threo atrikiup pecn-
liaritiea. 1. Notwithrtanding their great number, they all strikingly
rBsanihla each other in grammatical utructura— « atrong proof of Hie
comnion ori^ of the inhabitants. 2. Ttiey differ very widalr from each
other in then' roole or vocables, many of them liaving scarcely a worf in
common with any other tongue. 3. But Uielr most r«markanle feature
is their tiolyiyiith^ic or kolophtaiilic e)iBrBctei>— that is, they are all char-
acteriEBd by peculiarly conijiTct forma, b<"ijHvvlnLt resembliog our eoro-
ponnd wonls, each ler^ ' — r-'" — " ....... k,.. ^t ,i;..i^rit iiieaa. For
gence." In thejio lin^i <
tongues from oil ath'['.
American continent Wj.-, ,■ ,.
, In the 'Bible ot Every L^ud
longing to this family an '—
I ipuiips iBxdusive of Itie dlil
516 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
seven of which belong to the northern continent, and three to the south-
em. These are : 1, the Esquimanx, spoken along the entire northern
coast by a people who, in physical conformation, appear to be inter*
mediate between the natives of Northern Asia and the aboriginal Indians;
2, the Athapascan or Chippewyan, occupying a broad belt south of the
Esquimaux, and mainly between tiie Hudson Sea and the Pacific ; 3, the
Algonquin, found now chiefly in Canada and the Hudson Bay Territories,
but formerly covering also a large portion of the United States ; 4, the
Iroquois, occupying a large tract of country in the United States^ and in
the centre of the Algonquin area ; 5, the Sioux or Dacota, comprising the
tribes inhabiting the prairie country of the interior, from the MisslBsippi
to the Rocky Mountains ; 6, the Floridian or Appalachian, embracing
the langua^s originally spoken in the southern United States, but now
in several mstances extinct; 7, the unclassified tonnes of the United
States, between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific, and sometimes
known as the Panis-Arrapahoes. The numerous languages of Central
America are little known and still unclassified : for the Aztec or Mexican,
see at p. 555. Less is known regarding the ethnology of South America
than perhaps of anv other region in the world; but the langaases
have Men provisionally arranged under three groups — ^viz., I, the Ando-
Peruvian, 8i)oken by aU the nations occupying the great mountain-chain
of that continent; 2, the languages of Eastern South America, embracing
the Guarani and Carib, in Brazil and Guiana ; 3, the languages of Central
South America, spoken by the tribes that inhabit the forests and llanos
that extend from the Panm^ to the Rocky Mountains.
BRITISH NORTH AMERICA.
Boundaries. — N., the Arctic Ocean ; W., Alaska and the
North Pacific Ocean ; S., the United States, from which it la
separated by the parallel of 49°, by the great lakes, and by the
River St Lawrence, as far as the 75th demee of W. Ion. ; E., the
North Atlantic, Davis Strait, and Baffin Bay.
Extending from lat. 42** 21' to 82* N. . and from Ion. 53' ^ (Cape Race)
to the United States* territory of Alaska, liV W. Ion., British America
embraces 39^** of lat and 88° of Ion. The central point of this imTnanHn
area is in lat 62** KV N., and 97° W. Ion., a short distance east of the
southern extremity of North Lined Lake, which discharges its waten into
the western side of the Hudson Sea.
Area and Population. — The area is estimated at 8,553,484 sq. m.,
or nearly the size of the continent of Europe ; and the popilanonat
8,880,131, or a third more than the present population cff Sootlindp
being little more than one person to every sq. m. The area is thus eon*
siderably larger than that of the United States, inoluding AlMha^
but the population does not amount to one-tenth of that of tha gntt
Republic. Only a small portion of this immense territoiy ia aetnal
I
BaiTIEH NOUTH AMEBIC*. 517
colonised, and hy fsr the larger part of it has a soil too sterile and s
climate too severe to admit of the snccesaful pursuit of agriculture.
Bnr&ca. — An alevatcd plateau in the W., traversed by lofty raoun-
tatn-cliains, wliicli increase in elevation from N. to S., and rise in
many places nliove the limit of pereDnial snow.
East of this is an immense plain of slight elevation, vibich gentlvin-
elines in the direction of tie Hudson Sea, ita aaatera honndary. This
plain ia traversed in tha direction of its groBtB.rt length by a chain of lakes
unparalleled for their number and mafuitude. The prindpal members
of this chain belong to the basin of the St Lannmce, ^Ich is throughout
hi^y fertile and admirably adapted for colouisatlon. The other prin-
cipal lakes are in the basins of the Macfcenrie and Saskatchewan. On the
banks of the latter river, and around Lake Winnipeg, there is an area of
about 400,000 sq. m. of rich soil, and well adapted to agricultural pur-
poses, the climate beipg sufficiently mild for the growth of wheat East
of this, and between the Hudson Sea and the Atlantic, lies t)ie barren
and inhospitable region of Jdbrador ; whOe, in the still higher latitudes,
the surface is a monotonous stony wast«, with a low and scanty vegeta-
tion, abandoned to the ElaquhnauT, the rein-deer, and mnsk-ox. Bei'e
the winter cold is terrillc, and the subsoil permanently frozen.
Political Divisions. — British North America (a term now nearly
■ynonymoua with the Daminion uf Canada) comprises the follow-
ing main divisions ;—l. The Eastern or Laurentian Provinces
— vix., Ontario, Quebec, New Bmnswiok, and Nova Scotia, all of
which were united in 1867, under the name o£ the "Dominion of
Canada," together with Prince Edward Island, formally incorporated
in the Dominion ia 1873, and Newfoundland not yet incorporated.
2. The FaciQc Colonies, embracing British Columbia, the district of
Stickeen, and the iahinds Vancouver, Qutcu Charlotte, &a., al] uf
which were formed into one Colony in 18S6, aud united to the Do-
minion of Canada in 1871. 3. The Hortb-Wcat, or Hudson Bay
Territory, extending across the continent from Alaska to Labrador.
This immense region is tmderstood to be nnder the judadlction of
the Dominion, but as yet it is unorganbed. 4. MnDiloba, formerly
known as the Red Eiver Settlement, ijins between LaJre Winnipeg
and the United States' frontier, and formally annexed (o Uie Do-
minion in 1870.
NiHB OT PBOVWCt
Ontario, ....
New B^Jnnsft-ick, ". '. '.
NovaBootia, , , ,
Friiice Edward bland, .
Total, Eastern ProTln-r.
518
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Name op Province.
Area in
Eng. aq. miles.
Population
(1871).
Brought forward, .
British Columbia, ....
Manitoba,
N.-W. Territory,
Total Dominion of Canada, .
Newfoundland (1874), ....
Total British N. America,
852,361
213,000
13,923
2,934,000
3,579,782
42,000
11,968
85,000
8,513,284
40,200
8,718,745
161,386
3,553,484
3,880,131
DOMINION OF CANADA.
I. The Eastern Provinces, together with Prince Edward Island
and Newfoundland.
Boundaries. — ^N., Labrador and N.W. Territory ; W., the
00th meridian ; S., the Great Lakes, the United Statesi and the
Atlantic ; E., the Atlantic.
Extending from Detroit, in Michigan, lat. 42° 21', to Cape Bauld, in
Newfoundland, lat. 51° 39' N., and from Cape Race, Ion. 53° 6', to 90°
W., this region embraces 9° 18' of lat. and 37° of Ion. Ottawa, tiie cap.
of the Dominion of Canada, near the central parallel, is in the same lat.
as Oregon City, St John (New Brunswick), Lyon, Venice, Simferopol,
and the centres of the Sea of Aral and Lake Balkash.
Area and Population. — The area of these five provinces and of
the island of Newfoundland amounts to 392,561 sq. m., or 3^ times
the area of the British Isles. In 1871, the population amounted to
3,741,168, being only a little more than the population of Scotland.
In 1851, the population of the six provinces was only 2,478,145 ;
hence these six provinces have in twenty years added 60 per cent
to their population, while in the same period the United States have
added 67 per cent.
Political Divisions. — The Dominion of Canada, constituted in
1867, embraced four provinces — viz., Ontario or Upper Canada, and
Quebec or Lower Canada — both in the basin of the St Lawrence, and
separated from each other by the Ottawa ; and New Brunswick and
Nova Scotia, south of the estuary of that river. The two former may
be called the inland provinces, and the two latter the maritime pro-
vinces. Prince Edward Island entered the confederation in 1878,
but Newfoundland has hitherto remained aloof. The following aro
the principal towns in the six provinces : —
DOMISION 07 CiSiDi. 519
O^TAR^o.— Ottawa 22 {Ottawa}, Toronto 46, Kingston 12, Ham-
UtuD 27 (L. Ontario), Niagara 10 (Niagara), London 16 (Thames).
Quebec— QuebBc 60, Three Rivera 6, Montreal 107 (St Law-
rence), Sherbrooke 6 (St Fraocia).
New Brunswick.— Fredericton 6, St John 20 (St John), St An-
drews 7 (FasBllmsquoddy Bay).
Nova Scotia. — Halifax 30 (S.W. coast), Yarmouth (Bay o!
Fundy), Windaoc (Minaa Bay), Pictou 5 (Northnniberland Strait),
Sydney 1 (L Cape Breton).
Prince Edward Island. — Charlottetown 9 (Hilkboroiigh),
Georgetown (E, coast), Princetown (N. coast).
Nbwfoundlakd.— St John's 23 (S.E. coast).
Descriptive IToteB,— Ottawa, situated on the edge of a lireary wilder-
ness, but DOW connected with the great highwsya of commerce by caual
and railway, possesses several iniportaut BdvaDtagea as the capital of the
Dominion. It enjoys uurivalled water-power, wliich baa aieady been
turned largely to account in, the lumber trade : the supply of magnetic
JTOu ore in the vicinity is of uulimited extent, thongh coal is wanting to
torn it to proper acuount. Toronto, the cap. of Ontario orUpperCanada,
is, ID regard to population, the thinl city in Canada, and the grand eni'
porium for its wheat, which it exports to Britain and the United Stales.
tongston, a considerabls city at the N.E. extremity of Lake Ontario, is
the entrepSt of the trade between Upper and Lower Canada, and a naval
Brsenat of Great Britain. Hamilton, a thriving town on the Grand Trunk
Railway, and at the W. eitremity of Lake Ontario, baa an active and
increasing trade, Iflagara, a flourishing town at the mouth of the river
of same name which miites Lakes Erie and Onlsrio, has a brisk traffic by
Bteam with New York, Toronto, and Kingston : abont 15 m. farther up
are the celebrated Falls of Niagara, the most magnlHcent in the world.
The Home-Shoe Fall, on the Canadian aide, is 1800 ft. ai^ross and 158 ft. .
■■ ■irdeptb, while the American Palls are 600 ft. broad, and
depth : it is estimated that the falls discharge 100 million tons of
water par hour. Iioadon, a beautiful town on the Thames, in the centre
of the Canadian pentnaula, is fast rising into importance. Clnebeo, the
an<dent cap., and present stronghold of Canada, is the great entrepot for
the trade of the dondiiion with Great Britun, the West Indies, kc.
Shipbuilding is very eiteusively carried oil Quebec was founded hy the
French in 160S, and ceded to Great Britain in 17(i3 : near the city are the
Heights of Abraham, on which, in 17&9, was fought the action nndernl
memorable by the fall of Wolfe and Montcalm, the British and French
commanders. Six miles N.B, of Quebec are the celebrated falls of Mont-
morency, 251] it. high and 60 ft. wide. UilntreBl, the largest, handaom.
est, and most commercial city in Canada, is situiti'd on an inland oi the
Ottawa. Its architectnre is on a scale of uin ■ '• .1
by few of the flnert cities in Europe. It i^ : i -
railway syGteui, and the natural outlet fortint - .i[i
' — s which border the great iakss. Tlie \ .■.■:_■,
520 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
mercial capital and the laigest city in New Bronswick, has a fine har-
\x)\ii, which is open at all seasons, and defended by several forts. It is
the entre^dt of a wide extent of coantr^, possesses valuable fisheries, and
exports timber, fish, furs, and lime, in large <][aantities. HallfSuc, the
cap. of Nova Scotia, and the most important city in the Maritime Pro-
vinces, is built of wood, and beautifullv situated on a narrow arm of the
sea leading up to Bedford Basin, one of the finest harbours in the world.
It is the principal station of the British army and navy in North America,
and is well defended by strong forts and batteries. Halifax is the near-
est port to Great Britain on the American continent, bemg only 1800 m.
from Galway, a voyage of six days ; and a'railway. i>rojected m>m it to
Quebec through the centre of New Brunswick, will oring that city witliin
eight day^s' journey of Liverpool, with which there is regular steam com-
munication. Windsor, a small town, charmingly situated on Minas Bay,
contains an Episcopal college. Pictou, the principal town on the G. of
St Lawrence, has an excellent harbour and considerable trade. Charlotte-
town, the cap. of Prince Edward Island, has a magnificent harbour, and
enjoys great commercial facilities, St John's, cap. of Newfoundland,
stands on a spacious and secure harbour defencied by several forts ; it is
much resorted to during the fishing season, when numerous vessels are
employed in the capture of seals.
Capes, Islands, Gulfs, and Straits. — See under *' North America."
SorflEU^ and Mountains. — The six eastern provinces are almost
wholly confined to the basin of the St Lawrence, which is estimated
to embrace an area of 297,600 sq. m., of which 91,300 m. are covered
by the five principal lakes. Generally speaking, the surface of the
Dominion is very varied, and in some parts extremely rueged. On
the northern bank of the St Lawrence the land rises gent^ towards
the interior for about 20 m., beyond which, is a plateau of very
moderate elevation. The mountains have no great elevation, the
highest being the Green Mountains, 4000 ft, which, form a prolonga-
tion of the Appalachian chain of the United States, and traverse
Lower Canada south of the St Lawrence from S.W. to N.E., termin-
ating at Gaspe Point ; the Wotchisk Mountains, in Lower Canada,
1500 ft. high, and covered with perennial snow, form the water-part-
ing between the basin of the St Lawrence and the Hudson Sea : a
range of hills in the N. of New Brunswick, extending from the Falls
of the St John to the Bay of Chaleur, attains the height of 2170 ft.,
and forms the highest elevation in the maritime provinces.
The interior of Nova Scotia forms a table-land 700 ft. high, and the
Cobequid Hills in the N. are 1200 ft high. Cape Breton rises in the N.
to an elevation of 1800 ft Prince Edward Island is generally flat New-
foundland is for the most part rocky and uneven ; the " Long Range" hi
the W. stretches from S. to N. , attaining an elevation of 1500 ft.
Rivers and Lalces. — The only river of importance in this part of
British America is the St Lawrence, which has its remotest souiees
in the western tributaries of Lake Superior, and whose entire length
is estimated at 2150 m. The area of its basin, as above stated, is
297,600 sq. m., a large portion of which is occupied bymagnificent
fresh-water lakes, the largest in the world (p. 608). The river re-
ceives different names in the different partb of its course — as, the 8t
r
DOMINION OF CANADA.
the Detroit, betwaeE Lakes St Clair and Erie ; the Niagara, tetween
Lakes Erie sad Ontario ; the Iroquois, between Lake Erie and Mon-
treal ; and tha St Lanrence, between tliat city and Gas]iS Poiat
For the principal aMuenta of the St Laurence, ate table of liver-
boams (p. GiO], Owing to the numerous deep indentations oC the
KOi, there ere few riven of anjr ma^itucle in the maritime provinoea.
The longeat ia the St John, in New Brunswick, which, after a course
of 400 m., falls into the Bay of Fundy. The most important streams
in Kova Scotia are the Shubanacadie, falling into Minas Baun, and
the Atlnapolia, into the Bay of Fuudy. For the principal lakes, see
p. COS. Those of the maritime and insnlar ijrovincea are small but
very numerona, especially in Nova Scotia and Newfonndlond.
cnimate. — The cliniate of Canada is what geographers call exeta-
iioe, Ijoth the heat of snmmer and the cold of winter being mnch
greater than in corresponding latitudes in Europe.
Though the mean annnal temperature ia 41° iu tlis S., and 32° in the
N., thee«renies of heat and cold range from 85° ahcreto 33° below zero ;
Imt the djyness of the air and the absence of high windu greatly mitigate
the cold of winter, rendering the cliniate salubrious, and highly conducive
to longevity. Fatal epidemics, and even cont^lous diseaaea, are almost
unknoTfii ; and peraans enhject to coughs and colda suffer far less tlian in
Great Britain. Tha sky ia remarkable for its purity and transparency,
and fogs are rarely seen. In Lower Canada winter begins about tha end
ot November, and lasts till the end of April ; bat in the upper province
it is considerably shorter, and it sometiines passes without almost any
mow. The difference between the winter temperatnre of tha two provinces
amounts to 11 degrees in favour of the latter {p. 36). In the vicinity of
the great lakes winter is much milder than in the interior; but the St
Lawrence ia usually frozen over, for five months In the year, as far down
as Quebec The avetsge depth of snow is 30 in., and the mean fall of
rain 22 in. In the interior of New BruiiBwick the climate Is thought to
be gradually improving, owing to the cLearing nwnv nf tho fnrBitt ■ hrit
at Fradericton, ths cap. , the range of tcmporatu rt i ^ . .-i.
Fogs are frequent on the 8. coast of Nova Scoti'!
season ia cold and tedious; in summer, the rain
but the antiimn is delightful. The annual fall cj , . . i.-.
52 in., but the province is very hoalthy. The cliu_^
laland ii oonaiiierably milder than that c* "■■^--*=-
Newfonndland ia noted for its humid atmoa,
cold of its winters, when the thermometex
the freezing-point.
Geology. — By tat the greater portion
entire centml and northern puU, flwD
Lake Superior to the moutb of tha St Iai
/in* rocks. Slltirtan strata line baOl l~~ *
Kingston to Quebec, and the sontlien)
to Point Gaap^, together with lll« " '
extends from Georgian Bay "~ '
formation occupies the ri^ht
522 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
its course. Devonian beds cover the western half of the peninsnla
now mentioned. The Coed-Measures do not occur in Canada, as the
rocks throughout are of a lower geological horizon than the carboU'
iferous ; but the country is very favourably situated in its proximity
to the coal regions of the United States, and of the recently incor-
porated maritune provinces ; and it contains within itself such ample
supplies of wood, peat, and mineral-oil as will go far to compensate
for the want of coaL Crystalline and Igneous rocks occupy the
greater part of the surface of Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, and the
W. part of New Brunswick.
Silurian and Cambrian strata prevail in the N.W. of New Brunswick.
The CarboniferoiLs Series is largely represented in these provinces — the
Coal-Measures occupying the immense area lying between the Bay of
Chaleurs and the K extremity of the island of Cape Breton, and pene-
trating in New Brunswick far into the interior. Jwrassic Red Sandstone
is found largely developed in Nova Scotia along the Bay of Fundy, from
Lon^ Island to Cape Blomadon, together with the whole of Prince Ed-
ward Island.
Minerals. — With the exception of coal and a few of the less im-
portant metals, Ontario and Quebec have been found to possess all
the known useful minerals, while with regard to most of them it may
be safely asserted that these two provinces contain within themselves
a supply not only amply sufficient for their own consumption, but
for permanent, profitable, and extensive foreign commerce. The
principal minerals are — iron, lead, copper, nickel, zinc, gold, silver,
manganese, limestone, marble, lithographic stones, paving-stones,
mill-stones, various precious stones, asphalt, and valuable wells of
petroleum or rock-oiL The iron-ores of Canada, with the exception
of the bog-ores, are generally found associated with the Laurentian
rocks, in which they occur in prodi^ous quantities. Most of the
beds are of very great extent and thickness, yielding from 60 to 70
per cent of pure iron. Copper, however, constitutes the most im-
portant of the mineral treasures of Canada Proper. The Huronian
strata, occupying the whole northern flank of Lake Huron and parts
of Lake Superior, are traversed by numerous cupriferous veins, tiis
export value of which, in 1866, amounted to £68,600. Discoveries
of gold have been made in several localities of province Quebec, bat
it has only been obtained through the laborious process of washing.
The mineral products of the maritime provinces are abnnduit and
valuable, comprising inexhaustible supplies of ironstone and coad,
together with plumbago, copper, manganese, limestone, |prpsnm»
copperas, alum, pipeclay, rea and yellow ochre, salt, writing and
roofing slates, granite, sandstone, and other building-stones. A
ledge of gold-bearing quartz was discovered in June I860 near the
head waters of Tangier River, in Nova Scotia, and several gold minei
have since been open/sd in various parts of the province. In 1859 •
vein of silver ore was found in Newfoundland, together with rich
lodes of lead and of copper pyrites, the latter being as valaable lor
its sulphur as for its copper.
I
Botanj andAgrlcaltuTB.— The Dominion of Canada, tocethcr with
the 1. Ifewfomiiilaud, is almost wholly embraced in SchoQw's <th
phyto-geographic region, for the ciittrai:teri3tioa of wliicb sea under
•'United States," aod at p. E5.
The gteater p!irt of tLe Dommioa ia coierad by enormous forenta, chiefly
of white and red pine, the former of which, frequentiy messuriug 100 ft,
from the gronnd to the firat branch, is eiported to the United Kingdom
in great quantitie*. Other forest trees are the ash, birch, beech, ebs,
maple, lime, elder, willow, cedar, and many otlien. The timber trade,
the original occupation ot the people, ia sttll the inost valuable branch of
its commerce, thongh fast yielding to that of agricultDre. Wild fruits are
nnmerous, and nearly all the Tegetables and iVuits of Great Britain arrive
at perfection in Ontario, under proper cnltivar* ■" ■>
jnat beauty and variety, bnt geaerally of dlfl
indiganoas in W. Europe. In tlie fertility of it , .. .. _ ,
lo the growth of cereaia, Canada yields to no country either in the Old oi
Kew World. Ontario, especially, is famous for its wheat; a specimen
grown near Toronto obtained the first prize at the great Paris Eiliibition
ot:865. In Ontario and Quebec the number of acres under tillage in
1861 was 10,673,000. In the valleys of some of the lai^ rivers, ttiiity
crops of wheat have been raised in immediate succession, the lirst of
which averaged forty bushels per acre, and the last twelve bushels, with-
out the appilcation of manure. In many places the soil has been greatly
iiyured by such couatant succession of the same kind of crops ; but of
lata more improved methods of agriculture have largely restored tho
ground to its original fertility. In iSfll, the estimated yield of Ontario
alone amounted to 25,000,000 bushels. Iniiian-com, hops, and tobacco
are the common crops, and yield large returns. Hemp and Hu are in-
digenous plantA. and can be cultivated to any extent in many parts of the
country. Pumpkins and sqnaahea attain gigantic dimensions, sometitnes
exceeding 2ii0 pounds in weight. In the vicinity of the great lakes
the grape and peach grow luxuriantly, and ripen to perfectioo In the
open air. The '* lumber trada " (as the eiportation of timber is called)
forms the principal source of wealth in Mew Brunswick, where only a
very small portion of the soil ia cleared. Nova Scotia is, for the most
part, covered with wood and lake ; the trees are leas mwestic than ia
new Brunswick, hut embrace a greater number of apecles. In 1861,
about 1,000,000 acres were under cultivation. The toil i^ veryfertila;
the principal creps are wheat, maize, barl^, fya, oats, potatoes, liuch>
wheat, and field peas. The wheat i^rop "lien lufTf-.r; froiu wpiivll, and
the province does not, even in good "•-.■"•r- ..ii.i-.i.- .-4 .-.um .".....uiin,.
apple
o obtained from the ]
is cultivated ; and snch i < i
crops are produced iiniDBdiately < .
barley, rye, potatoes, and all loiii
yield laiga returns. The soil of Ki
with a scrubby vegetation. T\"'
kitchen vegetables fona the prlii^ii
|_»re found to thrive well in favoutnl i
Zoology.— Tbe wild animali < '
524 POUTICAL GEOGRAPHY.
tiger-cat, beaver, marten, otter, minks, musk-rat, porcnpine, weasel,
moose-deer, squirrel, and hare — all of which, except the two last,
are rapidly decreasing in numbers. The carriboa-deer roam in vast
herds in the pastures of Newfoundland, and the celebrated Newfound-
land dog is peculiar to the island. Birds consist of wild swans, wild
turkeys, ducks, Canada geese, woodcocks, snipes, and many beauti-
ful birds of the smaller feathered tribes, besides eagles, kites, hawks,
homed owls, herons, bitterns, and crows. There are two remarkable
features in the ornithology of this country — viz., 1. The birds are
all destitute of song ; 2. The periodic migrations of birds in amazing
numbei*s, on their way to and from the Arctic regions. Snakes are
numerous in Canada Proper, but the venomous kinds are not so
plentiful as in the United States. Domestic animals comprise cattle
and sheep, which in Nova Scotia are very numerous ; horses are
reared in vast numbers in Prince Edward Island; and swine and
poultry in all the provinces. The seas, bays, and rivers literally
swarm with fish of almost every name ; and the celebrated "bank of
Newfoundland," which forms the most extensive submarine elevation
on the globe, is tenanted by immense shoals of capelin and lance,
which attract the larger species — the cod and whale.
Ethnograpliy. — The population consists for the most part of emi-
grants from the United Kingdom and their descendants, the prin-
cipal exception being the province Quebec, where four-fifths of the
inhabitants are of French extraction, that colony having belonged
to France previous to its cession to Great Britain in 1763. They
speak the French language slightly corrupted, and are nearly all
Koman Catholics.
In 1871, there were in the Dominion 1,082,940 inhabitants of French
origin, of whom 847,615 were in Quebec, and 33,287 in Ontario. There
were 21,496 negroes, and about 23,000 native Indians, all of whom belong
to two tribes, tne Chippeways and Micmacs— sections of the great Algon-
quin nation — and the Mohawks, a branch of the Iroquois. A few of l^em
have embraced Christianity, but the great majority are still heathens.
Almost all the other inhabitants are of British extraction, with the ex-
ception of 66,500 "loyalists" from the United States (that is, i>er8on8
who fought on the side of Great Britain during the American war), and
24,162 Germans. In the same year there were in the Dominion 2,019,858
Protestants ; 1,532,489 Roman Catholics ; 91,270 of diverse creeds. The
English language prevails everywhere except in Quebec, where the French
f)redominates ; and Irish, Gaelic, and German may be heard in various
ocalities. Few countries have provided more liberally for education
than Canada. In Ontario no fewer than 22 per cent of the population
were at school in 1862, and 11 per cent in Quebec. There were 14 col-
leges, 131 ^mmar- schools, and 6300 common schools, attended by
460,000 pupils. The maritime and insular provinces have also put fortn
great efforts to educate the people. It is said that in Prince Edwaid
Island one-fifth of the whole revenue is emended on education, and that
there are more schools than there are roads to them. The press is acU
vancing rapidly; the journals are unstamped, and there is no dntfOB
paper or advertisements. Generally speaking, every town and viUini
nas its own press, and not unfrequently two pai>ers are issued from eaoL
SOHIKIOK OF CASADA.
52a
OoTenmieilt. — The Dominion of Canada is vested in a Governor-
General (appointeil by the Crown), who is aided by a privy touncil
and a parliament consisting of a Senate and a House of Commons.
The former conaiata of 77 members, being 24 for each of the original
jirovincefl, S for B, Colombia and Manitoba, und 24 for the three
maritime provinces. The Hoase of Commons consists of 206 mem.
berB (wlio are chosen every fivo yearaj, thfli« being 83 for Ontario,
65 far Quebec, 16 for Kew Brunswick, and 21 for Ifova Scotia, 4
for Manitoba, 6 for British Columbia, and 6 fur Prince Edward Is.
land, being one member for every 17,000 of the popnlatiou. The
laws of England form the recogniBsd code in all the provinces except
Quebec, where the Old French laws, sabject to the alterationB of
Parliament, are still respected. Newfoundland is ruled by a Lieat-
Governor appointed by the Crown, assisted by an Executiva Council
and a House of Assembly.
The Imperial Government rarely Joterreres in tlie legislation of these
colonies, except when some great national interest is involved. The ties
that bind them to ttie home country are slackening every year, and it is
not very improbable that ere long they may become wholly independent.
Not being represented in the British. pBrliament, they pay no taxes ; and
though &igland protects them from foreign Invasion, she refuses to main-
tain a standing army in the country except at the expense of the colonies.
Already the number of British troops serving In the colonies has been
rednced to 2DD0 men. The Dominion maintains a volunteer force of
87,170 men, and a newly-oiganised mililia, in which all the male inhabit-
ants between the ages of 18 and 60 ore liable to serve. In 1872, there
were on tlie lakes of Canada and on the St Lawrence 8 war-steamers
carrying 18 cannons, belonijing partly to Great Britain and partly to the
Dominion. The Imperial Government possesses besides 2 steamers cap-
able of being transformed into war-vessels. In 1874, the Revenue of the
Dominion amounted to £4,348,100; the Expenditnie to£4,820,000 ; and
the Public Debt to ^21,93G,949- In the same year the Beveuue of the
two insular provincG3was£166,974: theExnenditnre, £201,994; and the
Public Debt, £328,499.
MattnfjuTtnrBs and Commerce. — In the Dominion of Canada the
timber trade contiuiiea to form the chief-industry of the people. The
value of the wood exported in 1873 was £7,000,000. of which
£5,196,956 worth were sent to Great Britain, and a niucb greater
quantity was retained for home consumption.
Thevalleyof the Ottawa anppliea the finest i.'i '•-■■'■/
Brunswick the greatest quantity. Next in ' ' li'
trade is that of agriculture, which bu of latr ^ I o
1873, the total exports of com and Boa: :■"
The fisheries are also of imiiU'iian vdii>' in
1867, exported SlSfihi ■ :.■■ . ■'!'<
ported Ji»50,m wortl". ■ ■ '..-.
the United Kincdom, I. ••>
from the United Kinpl.. >i
I chiefly with the Uniteii Stiller !i
U being to the former oonntry, win li
f-ktler. lu the same yenr, then.
526 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
abont £5,000,000, and the imports from the United States to £4,300,000.
Woollen and cotton manufactures are the principal articles derived from
the mother country, though the duties levied on them are almost prohibi-
tive, amounting to 15 per cent. Wood and horses form the principal
exports from Prince Eaward Island ; fish, oil, and sealskins from New-
foimdland. The total Exports of the two colonies, in 1869^ to the United
Kingdom were £685,853 ; and the Imports from the United Kingdom,
£572,559. The total exports frt)m the six provinces to all countries in
1873 amounted to about £18,122,000, and the total imports to about
£23,317,000. The Dominion possesses a considerable merchant navy.
In 1867 there were 6217 vessels, carrying 912,715 tons.
Internal Communication. — The Canals, though only 218 m. in
aggregate length, are of great capacity, and are very superb works.
That along the St Lawrence, from the tide to Lake Ontario, is about
41 m. in length. The Rideau Canal, from Lake Ontario to Ottawa City,
adistance of 135 m., carries vessels of 120 tons burden. The Wellaud
CcUial, from the S.W. of Lake Ontario to Port Maitland on Lake Erie, a
distance of 42 m., allows vessels of 125 tons to pass from the one lake to
the other, thus avoiding the insuperable Falls of Niagara. The Railwavs
are on a grand scale, and some of their viaduct bridges are among the
most stupendous in the world. Such are the Victona Tubular Bridge
across the St Lawrence, near Montreal, 9194 ft lon^, which cost about
two million pounds sterling, and the Great Suspension-Bridge over the
Niagara River, below the F^ls. In 1836 there were not 20 m. of railway,
whereas in 1874 there were 3899 m., besides 16,244 m. of electric telegraph.
The principal lines in the Dominion are the Grand Trunk, which, com-
mencmg at Port Samia on Lake St Clair, proceeds eastwarii by Toronto
and Kington to Montreal, where it crosses the St Lawrence, and proceeds
E. to Richmond, and thence in a southerly direction to Pornand, in
Maine. From Richmond a branch line proceeds to Quebec and Fraser-
ville. The n^t important railway is tne Great Western, which runs
from Toronto^/jt^rough Hamilton and London to Windsor, opposite De-
troit, whence A* line extends to Chicago : a branch line connects Hamilton
with the Niagara, 2 m. below the celebrated falls. From Toronto, the
Ontario and Huron Railway proceeds N.W. to Collingwood on Greoi^an
Bay, a distance of 96 m. Another line, 160 m. in length, crosses the
Grand Trunk at Stratford, and the Great Western at Pans, and connects
Goderich, on Lake Huron, with Buffalo in the State of New York. The
local Government of Quebec has gifted 3,000,000 acres to companies for
the purpose of constructing railways on the northern shores of the St
Lawrence, from Quebec to Montreal and Ottawa. In addition to the
above, Halifax is connected with Windsor and Truro, while the proposed
intercolonial line is to connect Halifax with Fraserville, 110 m. below
Quebec, thus forming a continuation of the Grand Trunk Railway.
XL Brltisli Columbia. — Under the term British Columbia is now
embraced the whole of British North America west of the Kocky
Mountains. It includes not only the colony formerly known as
British Columbia, lying between the Rocky Mts. and the Pacific,
and between the Simpson River and the United States, but also the
district known as Stickeen, extending from the Simpson River
northwards, and along the eastern side of the United States terri-
tory of Alaska ; Vancouver Island, formerly a separate colony, bat
DOUimON OF CANADA. 527
united to Britiah Columbia in 1886; and Queen Cliarlotte Island,
nortli-east of Vancouver. All theee sections now form one colonj,
which in 1871 resolved to unite itself with the dominion of Ctinada.
It extends from lit iS° to about 62° N., and from Ion. 117° (Mt.
Brown) to 133° W.
Its entire length from ¥!. to S. is ahont 900 m., with a hreadth o{
mainland varying from 500 to 200 m., embracing su area of about four
timei that of the British lalea. But the settled portion, including Van-
cdQVer Island and Stickeen, does not exceed 213,000 sq. m., while tliF
pop. in 1S71 was only 12,000 persons, who are chiefly migratory, con-
BlaHne of mining adventurBiB from California and other places. The
eettled white pop. may be estimated at about 15,000, not inclnding the
Chinese, of whom there are considerable numbers. The mainland is
watered by three noble rivers — the Simpson, flowing westward, and
dividing the country into two nearly ei]ual portions ; the Stidieen, or
Frances River, fartlier north, in the settlement of that name; and the
Fraier River {with its affluent, the Thomson), which flows from N. to 8.,
and enters the Gulf of Geoi^ia (which eeparatea Vancouver Island &om
the mainland) afi^r a coarse of 710 m. The head-waters of tlie Col-
nmbia are also within the limits of this colon; ; as also the Finlsy
hranch of the Peace river, an affluent of the Madienzio. The colony
is to a great exteut occupied by two grand mountain -ranges, running
N.N.W., but gradually diverging from each other towards the N.,
where they encloea a vast plain, of from 1000 to 3000 ft. in eleva-
tiou. The eastern boundary is formed by the main creat of the Eocky
Uonnlains, some of the peaks of which in this region are among the
loftiest mountains of the N. Amerii^n continent, as Mt. Brown, 16,000
ft., Mt. Hooker and Mt. Murcbison, about 15,700 ft. each. The Cas-
cade Uta. , or Sea Alps, run along the coast from neur the mouth of tlie
Frazer into the U.S. territory of Alaska, formerly Russian America. The
average width of tliia range » about 100 miles, sjid many of its !
attain an elevation of about 10,000 tt. With the eieeption of tl
above mentioned, the interior is extremely m<
forests, numerous lakes, and swsjnpy tracts. During the laet few years
agricultnral operations have been greatly extended, and it is now ascer-
tained that the soil and dimate are well adapted to the growth of cereals,
especially wheat, barley, and oats, which grow luxuriantly. The country
Is well stocked with excellent timber, has extensive deposits of bitumin
ouB coal well fitted for the production of steam ; while a magnihcent
gold-field, one of the richest in the world, was discovered in 1860 at the
confluence of the BVazer with the Thomson. The geological formation of
the gold region Is precisely similar to that of California. Ilie greater part
of the conutry is of tertiary strata, with the exception of the Sea ^p8,
which are of trap, and the middle and western ranges of the Bochy Mouu-
tains, which are metamorphic The climate la very mniat in snuuner and
extremely cold in winter, Bspeclally in the elevated interior, whore snow
blocks op the mountain-passes Stom October to July. The laBge Of tem-
perature is mnch greater than in correapondlng latitudes of weslern
Europe, the meau summer behig 86° Fah. and the mean winter 15°. As
yet there are no towns on the mainhiTid, exoopt New Westminster, tli"
capital, situated near Uie moatb of tlia Prazer, with a pop, of only GOO.
Notwithstanding many serious drawbackt t"-"— -■" be no doubt tl "
I there is n great future in store for P'
I natural advaittagfs, as compareil wit
if the plaii
""!
528 POUTICAL GEOGRAPHY.
America. Its mineral treasm^es are unrivalled for richness ; it is admir*
ably adapted for agricultural and pastoral operations : while its supply
of yalaaole timber is inexhaustible. The main drawbacks are, its vast
distance from England, and the extreme difficulty of available communi-
oation witii Canada and the mother country. The possibility of open-
ing railway communication between the colony and Canada, throng
British territory, has been for many years a subject of earnest discussion;
and now that tiie colony has linked its fortunes to the Canadian Domin*
ion, the necessity for such conununication has become more obvious
than ever. At present England has no available route to the Pacific
coast of her possessions except through New York and San Francisco
(now united by the great Pacific Railway) ; but in the event of war be-
tween the two countries, the only possible route would be through her
own Canadian territory, the Red River Settlement, and the Rocky Moun-
tains. Therefore, by opening a direct line of communication through our
own dominions, we coiild at once effectually defend our widely-separated
American colonies, vastly promote their mutual prosperity, and ultim-
ately obtain readier access to China and our rapidly-developing Australian
possessions. The United States has, by her last great experiment, shown
that it is possible to construct a paying railway from ocean to ocean, across
gigantic rivers and frightful ravines, through mountain-passes of several
thousand fL in elevation, and over boundless prairies and uninhabited
wildernesses. While writing, we learn that the Dominion has agreed to the
construction of a Pacific ra^way. The Revenue of the colony (including
Vancouver) in 1868 was £123,911 ; Expenditure, £97,706 ; Public Debt,
£304,166. The Exports to the United Kingdom, in 1869, amounted to
£51 ,490 ; and the Imports from the United Kingdom, to £115,095.
Vancouver Island lies S.W. of the mainland of British Columbia,
from which it is separated by Queen Clharlotte Sound (in some places
only 10 m. wide) and the Gulf of Georgia. The Strait of Juan de Fuca,
18 m. wide, separates it from the United States territory of Washington.
Lat. 48" 20'— 51" N. ; Ion. 123°— 128°. Length, 275 m. ; greatest breadth,
50 m. ; area, 16,000 sq. m. ; population, 25,000, of whom 18,000 are Indians.
This fine island, by far the largest on the W. coast of America, came into
the possession of Great Britain by the Oregon treaty of 1846, which de-
termined the boimdary between the United States and British North
America. The surface is highly diversified, and a chain of lofty moun-
tains occupies the interior throughout its entire length. The soil consists
in some places of rich prairie-land, which is well adapted for the growth
of wheat and other cereals, but only a small portion of the surface is
suitable for agriculture. The coast abounds with fine natural harbours,
which will afford protection to ships in all weathers. Coal of an excel-
lent description is found at Naniamo, while copper and iron ore (the
latter found nowhere else on the N. Pacific coast) are abundant. Fish
of the most valuable species are very numerous around the coasts. Land
animals, important for their skins, embrace the beaver, racoon, and
land-otter ; while game comprises the elk, deer, grouse, snipe, &c.
Temperature seldom above 80 , or lower than 15°. The interior of the
country is little known, but is described as rocky and ricUy wooded.
The importance of Vancouver is greatly enhanced since the discovery of
gold in the adjoining mainland of British Columbia : and thei-e can be
no doubt that its position, climate, excellent harbours, and valuable
minerals, destine it ere long to occupy a prominent place among British
colonies. Victoria, the capital, near the S. extremity of the island, has
a population of 5000.
DOMIKIOS OF CiA-ADA. 52S
HL ITortli-'ffMt, or EndBDB Bay TEniloij, Bitimtad betweoii tie
■ Kock; UouDtoiiiB and HiulHou Se&, and between tbe Arcljc Oomm and the
" rted StBLee, is the cantruJ snd largeEt anbdiviBiDii nf whsi. bos hilln^rlD
_u known OE the Hndsim Bb; Cumpuiy't Territory. Tluu C(nii[>iiiif
» foniied by royal chortet, in 1G70, under tlie Enflpices of Kinus
Sbipflrtj after vhom Uie temter}' whb nsjned. The Coinpaay's charter
having ex|iirad in 1S63, it£ Block was tnuiBfeiTsd to a new body of ]irit
prietoiB. uumed the Inteniational Finauoisl Soriety, whiwe pcrwera are
the BDUthom portions of its gzgimtic temtociH ore to be opened up to
European cDloniaatioii under the Biifi]>iii«i> of the Itominian of (Xanadu,
la. 49°— "O*. Fort Torit, in the cealire of tlie entire tanilorj, and the
Cuiupuuy'n tniucipal d^5t, Bituated at the mouth of the river Nslaini
and cm tjie w, Hhore nf Hudfioii Bsy, hot the mnie latitude as .Ahardeen.
Aalborg, HIrk, TDbolak^ ^^ew Anihangel, and Kain in Labrador. IDie
]>reaise area le unknown, hut it mHy he SBtimaled at S,BS4,OjO sq, m., or
eighteen times the area of the British Isles. The snrfEce is geneiBlly low
tmd leret. portly alopinp tDwarde the Arctic Ocean and partly towards
till: BudnOD Sea. The whole lemtDry Ij'ing between the lijuits above
stated enibnifea three great nBtural legiDUS, The regicin lying N. nf
lake Athabasca and E. of the Mackenzie may be called the Jiarm
JUpioK, as little or no vegetation is seen, exce^it lichens, moiues, and a
few atunled plants. The regiiiii lying aronnd the 8. and W. ahorei of
Hudson Bay may in like momier he styled the Wbb^ JitgioK, as the soil
IS nenally tuvered wit^ magnificant forest-triws. The entire remaindei,
BtTBtching westward tc the ilockj Mountains, »nd northward to the
Art^ic Ocean, may be dannminated the J^rairi^ Hrrjisfiy as it consistB for
the mobt pan of immense plaiuit devoid of timW, but clothed with
Innmajit posturo-graaseB and sedges. The only important fojBste in
this rc^on an: along the E. base of the Rocty Uoimtains. Od t^e wimble,
it is well adupted for hecomiitg an ughcultuBl countr}-, as all the Euro-
pean cereolB, together with potstoes, tnmijis. and other tisefu] vegetables,
COD he here hroo^iit to maturity. This region wae suhdi^ed hy the
Company into twenty distdcts, each oontammg one or mote factories, or
fur-trading eatahlifliunants. The prinpipal of these are, Ft Goad Ma/x
on Mackeuzie Birec, and FL liacphenon, on Peel Giver, the two most
northeru of tlie Company's fkitories. The phie and the alder are shun-
danl in their neighhourhood, amongrt the valleys of tiie Bocfcj Moun-
tains, Barley ripens at .Ft. JVomuHi flat G5°), and good cro|is of oato
hove bean raised at Pt. Simpaon. Ft. Fraailin, on the western shore
of Great Bear l^ke, has a mean annnol teDiperature of Id" below freezing-
minimum heat of SB" below zero, and a maximmn heat of 80°
-dFI. CkippeKtiiiim, on Luke Alhub»»i:a, tliara is not the alighteet
vated vegetnticn. Coarse pjasE is yielded by the BWauijifi, and cut
r the few cattle nguitad at the station, whidi have to Jeed on fish
»-—->■ Tjelaila. In IBG2, gold was discovered at fiiimoWoii Jfoiai.
katchewan, the whole valler of which is likely to prove
te cold at Ft. York durii^g'the winter months is feaifnlly
e, the thenuometer desoending sometimes ns low as 50° below mm.
mt with a constant tire, brandy freezes mto a solid suhstimce. In
HTlhe sor&ce thaws to the dnith of 10 or 12 inches, and becomes a
clommy mud ; and but for suppues imjiortid from more tamperate
regioni, eiiBtence would be impwaihle. Tet this dreary r^on cimtains
eitaoaive areas well adapted for colonisation. The entire country aronnd
Luke Winnipeg, togeth^ with tlie inuneuw basin of tbe Baskatchewim,
530 POUTICAL GEOORAFHT.
is marvellously fruitful in forage plants, possesses an admirable soil, and
embraces besides an immense supply of coal and iron-ore of the best
quality. With these conditions, aidded to a very healthy climate, it is
not too much to expect that the southern part of the country will one
day become the seat of an industrious, prosperous, and powerful people.
The great desiderat\un of the country is the opening up of land and
water communication with Canada and British Columbia.
IV. Manitoba, hitherto known as the Bed River Settlement, was
originally founded in 1813. It is situated on the btmks of the Bed
River, which has its upper course in the United States. The population,
11,963 in number, is composed of emigrants from the Highlands of Soot-
land and Canada, together with retired servants of the Hudson Bey
Company, and 50,000 native Indians and half-breeds. The soil is very
fertile, and large crops of grain are raised ; and there are natural forests
of oak, elm, maple, and pine. The settlers possess groat numbers of
sheep and cattle, and most of the domesticated animals of England have
been introduced. The rivers freeze in November and open in April ;
but Lake Winnipeg remains frozen till the end of May. This is the only
colony to be found in the boundless tract formerly known as Bupert's
Land. Hitherto the Settlement has been isolated and independent of
Canada, but in conseauence it vzas formally included in the Dominion, in
opposition to the wishes of many of the settlers, who raised the banner
of insurrection in 1870 ; but on hearing that a British force was on its
way to subdue them, they agreed to be annexed to Canada,
Labrador, an immense peninsula between Hudson Sea and the Atlan-
tic, forms the eastern portion of the British territory ; but the authority
of the new International Financial Society (p. 529) does not extend
farther east than to Ion. 70°. Greatest length, from E. to W., 1000 m. ;
greatest breadth, 850 m. : area estimated at 420,000 sq. m., or five times
the area of Great Britain. The whole of this immense country is uninhab-
ited by civUised man, with the exception of a few settlements on the St
Lawrence and Atlantic coasts, which are visited during the summer by
vessels engaged in the cod and salmon fisheries, and in seal-hunting.
At this season the population rises to about 30,000 ; while at other
times it is thinly peopled by nomadic bands of Montagnais. Nasquapee,
and Mistassinni Indians, and the northern coasts by wandering Esqiii-
niaux. Large establishments are maintained on the coast for salting
fish, and extracting their oil. Nain, a mission-station near the middle
of the east coast, is in the same latitude as New Archangel, Fort York,
Aberdeen, Riga, and Tobolsk. Labrador is subdrvided into Bu^i
River, or East Main, in the W., and Labrador Proper in the B. Tbs
former of these contains the principal trading stations of the Company.
The only sites of importance in Labrador Proper are four settlements of
the Moravian missionaries — viz., Nain, Okhak, Hebron, and Hqpedale,
all on the N.E. coast. The shores are desolate and sterile in the extreme^
but the interior consists of a lofty sterile table-land, 2240 fL above the
sea, strewed with an infinite number of boulders, which vary in sixe firam
1 to 20 ft. in diameter. The climate is very severe, but less foge^tiua
in Newfoundland. Mean annual temp, of Nain, 27 82^ : winterly W ;
summer, 47° 9'. Com will not ripen, and only hardy kitchen y^ietablei
can be raised. Labrador Proper is under the provisional joriadictioii ol
Newfoundland.
GREENLAND, oh DANISH AlIERICA.
Boimdaxies, — N. anil N.E., the Arctic Ocenn ; W., Kennedy
:;haniiel, Baffin Bay, and Davis Strait ; S. and S.E., the Atlan
tic Lat 59° 49'— 81" 30' N. ; Ion. 20°— 75" W.
1 island, or gronp of
^ Ice, and deeply peno-
trated on ita western aids hy narrow inlets wMcb resemble the fiordi o!
Norway. Captain Nares of Che British Ajctio Expedition, in I87B. found
Greenland to eitemi on the N.W. to lat. 82.64°, Ion. 18.31'' W., from
which point the coast probably treads south-eastward. In these lati-
todea tne ice avErnces 80 feet in thickness. Capa Farewel], the sontheni
extremit; ol Greenland, la on the Game parallel as Mt. Bt Elias in Alaska,
Unst in Shetland, St Petersbnrg, and Yakntsik.
Aiea uid Population. — Tlje area of Greenland is rou{rlily eeti-
mated at 380,000 sq. m., or thrice the aize of the British lalea ; and
the popuiation, in 1H75, at 9800, of whom only about 340 are Danes,
the remainder being Eaquiniauj:.
Surface ajid DItIsIoiib. — The surface is generally liigh, rocky,
and baJTen, Tha elEvated portions are covered with perennial snow ;
the glaciers extend in tuany placea to the sea-shore ; while the in
terior is supposed to be one vast field of ice. The E, coast appears
to be about the most inhospitable region in the world. The W.
cout is fringed with islands, some of them, as Disco Island, being
of considerable size. The Danish goverament has divided the
country into two Inspectorates — a southern and a northern — which
are separated by the Long Fiord, lat. 87" N. Tha principal villages
are Julianshaab, New Herrnhut, Christianshoab, and Uppemavik,
all on the west coast ; and Godhavn, on Disco Island. JnUanahaab
is the cap. or chief Danish atotion in Greenland ; Herrnhut is the
principal mission-atation ; wliile irpperaavlk is the most northern
civilised place on the globs.
OUmate and Frodoeta Tlie mean annual temperature of Green-
land is probably about 2T.5 Fah. ; but the difference between the
highest and lowest temperatures (124°) is perhaps without a parallel.
In July the thennometar sometimes BtandB as fugh as 84*, while in
January it often sinks as low as 40° below zero. July is tlie OJity
month of the year in which no snow falls ; but the seas do not
usually begin to freeze till January, The vesrtntion mainly cunriitn ot
grasses and liohena in the north, and of n ("■«: ".■iii^i-.'ii iiir,]
njders, and willows in the south, where arc n]
titles ot com, potatoes, and kitchen VBgetiili
the western coast, from kt. BB° to 73° ; oop]- ■
an Disco Island ; and kryolite, ■ new miin^r i
"" rei'ently been found. The prlni'ip.il nni'
r bear, the reindeer, foi, anrl fi.i ■■■ ■■■
I, and whales, large numbi^ii ul
532 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
by fleets of vessels from Scotland, England, and the United States.
The seal is hunted for its valuable skin, which fetches a liigh price
in the English market ; the walrus, for its blubber and the ivory of
its tusks ; and the Greenland whale, for its valuable oil and wliale-
bone of commerce.
Ethnography. — The natives, who are named Esquimaux, are a
peculiar race, allied to the Mongolian family.
They live chiefly on seals and whale-blubber, and are clothed in skins.
In summer their bouses are tents formed of bone and the skin of the
dog-fish, while in winter they live in holes dug in the ground and covered
a-top with turf. It is now ascertained that this portion of the New
World was discovered by a Norwegian, as far back as a.d. 982. It was
soon after colonised from Iceland, but the intercourse between the colony
and the mother country gradually diminished, and ultimately ceased, till
at length the existence of Greenland became unknown to European
nations. In 1587 it was rediscovered by Davis, and in the following
century the Danes re-established a communication with the lost colony.
The natives have been converted to Christianity by Moravian mission'
aries.
THE UNITED STATES.
This country embraces the central or most compact portion
of the continent of North America, together with a large terri-
tory in the extreme north-west, now known as Alaska, but for-
merly as Russian America.
Boundaries. — Omitting the district of Alaska, purchased
from the Russian Government in 1867, the United States are
boimded as follows : — N., British America, from which they are
separated for the most part by the 49th parallel of latitude and
the great Canadian lakes ; W., the N. Pacific Ocean ; S., Mexico,
the Gulf of Mexico, and the Strait of Florida ; E., the N. Atlantic
Ocean and New Brunswick,
This vast territory extends from Cape Sable in Florida, lat. 25® 7', to
the 49th parallel of north latitude, and from Eastport in Maine, Ion.
67° 2', to Cape Flattery on the Pacific coast, 124° 40' W., thus embracing
23 degs. of lat. and 58 degs. of Ion. While the lat. of its northern bound-
ary corresponds with that of Cherbourg, its southern limit is on the same
parallel with the centre of the Sahara ; and the parallel of 37°, which
passes through the centre, cuts San Francisco ana Norfolk in the New
World, and Cape St Vincent, Syracuse, Smyrna, Astrabad, Kunduz,
and Yeddo, in the Old. The extreme length, from Passamaquoddy Bay
to the Pacific, is estimated at 2800 m., and the extreme breadth, firom
Red River Settlement to the mouth of the Riu Grande, 1600 m. The
frontier line measures about 12,000 m. ; but including the sinuosities of
the shores and the coast-line of Alaska, the entire sea-line is about 12,600
Di., or one mile of seaboard to every 278 sq. m The Atlantic coast, as
THE UNITED STATES.
far south as Cape Cod ill New Eiiglnnil, id high and rocky, and ha^ mauf
fine hnrboura ; but farther south, aa also along the GuU of Mexico, tli«
jf the bays, protected by projacting spurs of ... ._ _._.
afford good harbourage. Ban Fraacisco Bay, on Uiis coast, is one of the
liuBst and most capacioUR in the world.
Area and Popnlatlini.— The aren of the United Statea, without
hicladiOK Alaska, a vast but sterile territory, amounts to 3,036,494
sq. m., but including Alaska, the area is reckoned at 3,611,844
sq. ni., being twenty-eight times the area of ths British Isles, or
ahtmt the same sise as Euro[)B without the islands. At the treaty
of Veraaillea iu 1783, when Britain acknowledjred the indBpand-
enCB of the States, the area was estimated at 388,279 sii. m., or
less than oue-aevenlh of their present extent. Tlie population has
increased at a still more rapid rate. In 1790, when the Arst reeuiar
census was taken, the population numbered only S,929,S23, whua at
the last oenana (June 1870), inclading tha thinly-peopled territoir
of Alaska, it amounted to 3a,!l2S,593, or nearly ten times what it
was eighty yeais ago* The population, indeed, doubles itself in
every twenty-tive years, — a rate of progress almost unparalleled, and
exceeding even that of the Canadian Dominion, which ooly adds GO
per cent in 20 years. The main cause leading to this result is the
constant stream of emigration from Europe, especially from the
Britiah Isles and Germany. In the deeaile irom 1845 to 18S1 thent
entered the country a million and a half of Irish, while In 1876 there
arrived 227,000 persons from all countries. A large number of
Chinese have within tlie last few years entered the Western States of
r the Union.
V BuTfa,cs Thf country may be divided into three great physical
Kifegions — viz., the Atlantic slope, the great valley of the Missis-
sippi, and the Pacific slope. The Atlantic or Eaatem slope extends
from the ocean for some 50 or 100 m. inland, and CTadually increases
in elevation till it terminates in the Alleghany Mountains, ivhich
separate the waters that Saw westward to the Mississippi from those
that flow eastward to the Atlantic. The Alleghanies, or Appal-
ftchisii chain, con.'riat of a series of jiarallel ranges about 1300 m. in
length, with a valuing breadth of from 30 to ISO m.; average eleva-
tion, 2600 ft.; highest summit (the Black Mountains in North Caro-
linn), 6707 ft. The greater part of this slope is a level country, and
is the most thickly nettled portion of the United States, and con-
taining their largest cities. The great valley of the MlBsissippi,
formed by the long inner slopes of the Atlantic and Pmfic highlands,
is an immense level plain, the highest ]iart of which does not exceed
SnO ft, in elevation, except near the Iraae of the Bocky Mountains,
where it attains a height of 6000 ft The Mississippi is navigable
for targe ships as far as Natchez, SSO m. from Its mouth, nnd for
gigantic river-Bteamera as far as tha Falls of St Anthony, 2037 m.
Ita giwt trihutary, the Missouri, ia navignble for steamers in sum-
• In DM. IBSO tha a
534 POUTICAL GEOGRAPHY.
raer to Fort Union, in Montana territory, 2170 m., and in spring to
Fort Benton, 400 m. higher up. Most of the other great tributaries
are also navigable to the foot of the mountains on either side, and
furnish the means of reaching by water every part of the Yast
fertile basin which they drain. The Pacific slope extends frorii the
Rocky Mountain range to the Pacific Ocean, and differs widely from
the two regions above described. Its two greatest rivers are the
Colorado and the Columbia, which rise near each other in the Rocky
Mountains, and, surrounding the great inland basin of Utah, enter
the ocean, the former near the N. frontier of the United States, and
the latter finding its way to the Gulf of California. Most of the
rivers of this entire region, especially the Columbia and Colorado,
How through deep gorges, formed by perpendicular walls of rock
hundreds of feet in height. The inland basin above referred to is a
high plateau of about 5000 ft. in elevation, situated between the
Rocky Mountains on the one side and the Sierra Nevada and Cascade
ranges on the other. Great Salt Lake, near its centre, is 4738 ft.
high. This plateau is in general a sterile forbidding region, and
characterised by great drought.
Political Divisions. —At the Declaration of Independence, in 1776,
there were only 13 states — viz., Delaware, Pennsylvania, New Jersey,
Georgia, Connecticut, Massachusetts, Maryland, South Carolina, New
Hampshire, Virginia, New York, North Carolina, and Rhode Island.
But in 1875 there were 38 states, 10 organised territories, and 1
small district (Columbia), containing the federal capital, being in
all 48 political divisions (without including Alaska), having an aver-
age area of 63,052 sq. m., and an average population of 810,000.
They are conveniently arranged into five groups — viz., 6 North-
eastern, or New England States ; 7 Eastern or Mid-Atlantic States ;
10 South Atlantic and Gulf States ; 11 Central or Inland States;
4 Pacific States and 10 Territories. Nearly all the states are situ-
ated east of the dry region of the Rocky Mountains, while nearly
all the territories are confined to the elevated plateau. The latter,
though dry and barren, are rapidly increasing in population, owing
to the rich mines they contain ; and thev will no doubt soon obtain
the rank and privileges of states. The last state admitted into the
Union was Colorado (June 1874).
North-Eastern or New England States
Maine. — Augusta 15, Bath 12 (Kennebec), Eastport 5 (Passama-
quoddy Bay), Belfast 5, Bangor 18 (Penobscot), Portland 31 (Casco
Bay).
New Hampshire.— Concord 12, Nashua 10, Manchester 23 (Merri-
mac), Portsmouth 11, Dover 8 (Piscataqua), Hanover 2 (Connecticut).
Vermont. — Montpelier 3, Burlington 14 (Onion R.), St Albans 4
(Lake Champlain), Middleburg 4, Rutland 4 (Otter Creek).
Massachusetts.— Boston 250, Charleston 28, Cambridge 89, Lynn
28, Salem 24 (Massachusetts Bay), Newbury Port 22, Andover 7,
THE UNITED STATES. 535
recce 28, Lowell 41 (Marrimap), Plymouth S (Capa Cod Biiy),
New Bedford 21 (Buzzard Bay), Fall River 28, TauatOD 18 (Fall
Eivor), WorcsBter H (Seehoiii), Springlield 23, Northmnpton 6
(Connecticut), Quincy 24 (E. ocwat).
EboCa Island.— Providence 68, Newport 12, Warwiclt 8, Bristol
B, TiTBiton S (Sarraganaett Bay), Pawtucket 7 (Pawtueltet), Smith-
field 12 (Blacknater).
Canusetlcat. — Hartford 37, M»ldleton S (Connecticut), New Lon-
don 10, Norwich 10 (Thames), Newhaveu SO, Bridgeport 19 (Long
|. laUnd Sound).
H EiSTEBK OFl lIlD-AlUkKTIC StATBIS.
2 (Geneaee), Buffalo 117 (L. Erie), Syracuse 43 (Erie Caual).
How JetM7.— Tronton 22, Camden 20 (Delaware), Newark lOS,
Pateraon 33 (Passiac), Jersey City 83 (Hadaoii).
PenusylTiuila. — Harrisbarg 23 (SuacmeliannB), Philadalphia 871
(Delaware), Reading 33 (Sehnylkill), Pittsburg S7, Alleghany 63
(Ohio), Scrantou 35 (Lackawanna).
Dtetrict of ColnmblsL^WAsaiNOTON 109 (Potomac).
Delaware. — Dover 4 n., "Wilmington 30 n. (Delaware Bay).
Haiyland- — Annapolis B (Severn), Baltimore 267 (Chesapeake
Bay), Cumberland 10 (Potomac).
VlrglnJa. — Richmond SI (James River), Petersburg 18 (Appomat-
toi), Norfolk 19, Portsmouth 10 (Elizabeth River), Fredericksburg
B (Rappahannock).
West Virginia — Cbarlestown (Gt Kannawha), \^Tieeling 19, Par-
bersbarg 6 (Ohio).
p Gdlf Stai
Horth CEuroUna. — Haleigh 10 n. (Neuse River), WilmingtoD IS
(Caiie Fear).
Santh Caxollna. — Columbia 8 (Congaree). Otarleston 51 (coast).
OeorKln.— Atlanta 22, Columbus 10 (Cbattshooche), Milledge-
ville 4 a. (Altamaha), Savannah 28, Augusta 15 (Savannah).
Florida.— Tallahasaee2Q. (Ocklokouee), Key West (Fioe Islands),
FeDsacola3(N.W. coast),
AlalnmBi. — Montgomery 10, Mobile 32 (Alabama), Tuscaloosa 4
(Mobile).
UiBslBilppL— Jackson 3 (Pearl River), Nfttche? 9, Ticksburg 12
(Mtasissippi).
Tennesue. — NaabvilleSS (Camberland), blemphia40(MiasiE9ippi),
Knoiville 10 (Ten
536 FOLITICAL GEOGRAPHT.
Arkansas. — Little Rock 12, Van Buren 3 (Arkansas).
Louisiana — New Orleans 191, Baton Bonge 6 (Mississippi).
Texas. — Austin 5 (Colorado), Galveston 14 (G. of Mexico), San
Antonio 8 (San Antonio).
Centbal or Inland States.
MissonrL — Je£ferson City 3 (Missouri), St Louis 312, Hannibal 4
(Mississippi).
Kentucky. — ^Frankfort 8, Lexington 15 (Kentucky), Louisville
100, Covington 24 (Ohio).
Ohio.— Columbus 33 (Scioto, affl. Ohio), Cincinnati 216 (Ohio),
Dayton 32 (Miami), Zanesville 10 (Muskingum), Cleveland 92,
Sandusky 13 (L. Erie), Toledo 32 (Maumee).
Indiana. — Indianapolis 48 n., Lafayette 14, Fort Wayne 17 (Wab-
ash), Evansvllle 22, New Albany 13, Madison 13 (Ohio).
Michigan. — Lansing 4, Grand Bapids 17 (Grand River), Detroit
79 (Detroit).
Wisconsin. — Madison 9 n., Janesville 9 (Bock B.), Bacine 11,
Milwaukee 71 (L. Michigan), Fond du Lac 11 (L. Superior).
Illinois.— Springfield 17 n., Peoria 25 n. (Dlinois), Alton 11,
Quincy 24, Galena 12 n. (Mississippi), Chicago 298 (L. Michigan).
Iowa. — Des Moines 12 (Des Moines), Keokuk 13, Burlington 15,
Davenport 20, Du Buque 18 (Mississippi), Iowa 5 (Iowa).
Minnesota.— St Paul 20 (Mississippi), Stillwater (St Croix).
Nebraska. — Lincoln n., Omaha 15, Nebraska 5 (Missouri).
Kansas. — Topeka 5, Kansas 82 (Kansas), Atkinson 4 (Arkansas),
Leavenworth 18 (Missouri).
Territories and Pacific States.
California. — Sacramento 16, San Francisco 160 (Sacramento).
Oregon. — Salem 2, Portland 8 (Williamette, affl, Columbia).
Nevada. — Carson City 3, Virginia 7 (Carson).
Washington Ter. — Olympia 3 (Puget Sound), Pacific City (Colum-
bia).
Idaho Ter. — Bois^ City (Snake, affl, Columbia).
Montana Ter. — Helena n. (Missouri).
Dakota Ter. — Yankton (^lissouri).
Wyoming Ter. —Cheyenne n. (Platte).
Utah Ter. — Great Salt Lake City 13 (Jordan).
Colorado. — Denver City (Platte, affl, Missouri)^
New Mexico Ter.— Santa Fe 7 (Santa F^, affl, Rio Grande del
Norte).
Arizona Ter. — Tucson (Santa Cruz, sub-affl, Colorado).
Indian Ter. — Tahlequah n. (Arkansas).
Alaska Ter. —New Archangel 2 (Sitka Island).
TUB UNITED STATES. 537
Descriptive MotSB.— AcMnlinj; to the census of 1B"0, thoit were
ill the L'liited States fourtpeu tuivus of above 100,001) inhnbitantii ;
eleven between 100,000 and 50,000 ;fi>rtybetween&0,000 and 2I),OOD;
and twent,v-six between 20,000 and 10,000.
New Ekglamd SiaTEa.— Aogasta, cap. of Maine, is a sraall town witli
a United BUtes arsenal. Banfar, the third city in the slate, ia one of
the mast extensive lumber depots in the Union. Portland, the most
populons and comniBrciHl city iu Maine, has one of the finest harhoors on
thu whole Atlantic coast Conoord, cap. of New Hampshire, ia a great
lailroad centra, and manufactures carnages extensiiely. Hancheater,
the largest city in the state, is one of tiie cliief sestK of the cotton manu-
facture. Fortsmonth, a manufacturing city, possesaes a fins harbour.
BorlingtOD, the largest city in Vermont, stands at the termini of several
great railways. Boeton, cap. of MaBsachnsettB, and the great literary and
commercial metropolis of New England, is iu regard to population tbe
seventh city of the United States. Tlie streela are narrow and irregular;
the houses are principally of brick, hut the pablic buildings are of granite.
Amongst the latter stauds Faneuii Hall, where many patriotic meetinga
were held during the War of Independence. Bunker's Hill, in the suburb
of Cbartestomi, is the scene of a celelirated battle fought in June 177.%
between the Aiiiericao troops and the royalist forces. Benjamin Frank-
lin was bora hero in 1706. In Cambridge, one of the suburbs, stands
Harvard University, the oldest and best endoM-ed seminary in the Union.
Salem, a place of great trade, contains a valuable museuin. Lowell,
called the Manchester of America, from the number and variety of its
^mannfacturea, the chief of whieh is cotton. The nnmher of persons em-
ployed in the mills here, in 1870, was nearly 15,000 of whom 8800 were
iSemales ; nuitilier of mills, 60 ; spindlei, 526,710 ; weekly product,
X2*O,0O0 yards of cotton cloth, 21,687 yards of woollen goods, and
''K,000 yards carpeting, Flymoath, a small sean^t town, and the oldest
Id New England, being the place at which the "Pilgrim Fathers " arrived
in the Mayflower, 2nth Bee. 16^. Hew Bedford, mors eitensively
engaged in the wbale-Hsbery than any otlier town in the United States.
Prondence, cap. of Bhode Island, and ia size the aaoond nity in New
England, is the seat of BinttTi University and other literary eatablish-
Bewport, one of the most celebrated watering-places Iu Neu
cities In the Union, is the seat of Yale Llollcge.
Mtd-Atlaktic States.— Albany, a large thrivii
vantageously Bltuiited both for foreign commef" h
has a university, observatory, and state librnrv .■
BrooUjn, at the western eitrcmity of IiOng I-im.'
of which it may be mganled an a anburb, cfu.l
navy-yard, 40 acres in eittent, and a Inrg" '['i "
Uew TorlE, tht lar^pst and most popuhju^'citv
the chief uommercial emporium ot r' ,
haltan Island, at the coiiflnenee iii
Dtty is triangular in fcnn, in 30 mil
regular an^ handsome iftreuts, th'r i
fimr m. long, ilued with shops auil i
tments. It wai founded h
leofth
d manufactures.
_ ^ . I17SS.-
), the (Irrt President of Die Unil
538 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHir.
ter are important commercial and manufacturing cities. BoAdo, at the
north-east extremity of Lake Erie, where it contracts into the Niagara
River, is the great entrepdt between the North- West and tiie Atlantic
seaboard, and one of the most thriving cities in the Union. Bynueuae,
on the Erie Canal, is noted for its valuable salt-springs, and for being the
seat of the most extensive salt manufacture in the United States, ^new-
ark, the largest and most populous city in New Jersey, has numerous
public institutions. Philadelphia, at the confluence of the Delaware and
Schuylkill, formerly the cap. of the United States, is still the second city
in the Union in regard to population and importance : it was founded by
William Penn in 1682, and m the Old State House the independence of
the Union was declared in 1776. Pittsburg, at the junction of two streams
which form the Ohio, and in the midst of valuable coal-mines, is the
chief seat of the iron manufacture, and may be styled the American Bir-
mingham : here is manufactured most of the machinery of the steamboats
that ply on the Mississippi. This is the greatest market in the Union for
bituminous coal and petroleum. Wasnington, cap. of the district of
Columbia, and the metropolis of the United States, contains the White
House or residence of the President, and the Capitol or seat of the United
States Congress, but has neither tnide nor manufactures. Wilmington,
the most important town in the State of Delaware, contains a United
States arsenal, and numerous manufacturing establishments. Here took
place an engagement in 1777, between the United States army under
Washington, and the British army under Lord Howe. Baltimore, the
sixth city in the United States as regards population, is ornamented witii
numerous monuments, one of which is an elegant obelisk commemorative
of the defence of the city against the British forces in 1814 : Baltimore is
the greatest tobacco and flour market in the Union. Cumberland, the
second city in Maryland, is noted for its coal trade. Sichmond, cap. of
Virginia and recently of the Southern Confederation, is the natural depot
of a large extent of country, exports great quantities of flour, cotton, and
tobacco. Petersburg, a busy manufacturing town, which largely exports
tobacco and flour. Korfolk, the chief commercial port of Virginia.
Portsmouth, noted for its fine harbour, and for its bemg an important
naval depot of the United States. Fredericksburg, on the Rappahan-
nock, will be long remembered as the scene of a disastrous defeat of the
Union forces by the Confederates under General Lee, Dec. 13, 1862.
Wheeling, the principal city in the new state of West Virginia, is largely
engaged m manufactures and commerce. Raleigh, cap. of North Caro-
lina, contains an elegant State-house, built after the model of the Par-
thenon at Athens. Wilmington, the largest city in North Carolina, is
connected by rail with all the populous cities lying to the north of it.
Columbia is a very handsome little town, with the streets beautifully
ornamented with trees, and is the seat of South Carolina College.
Charleston, the only important city in South Carolina, and the largest
city in the South Atlantic states, will be long famous for its heroic de-
fence against the U.S. fleet in 1863. Savannah, the largest and most
commercial town in Georgia, has an excellent harbour defended by two
forts, and exports great quantities of cotton, rice, naval stores, and to-
bacco. Key west, on an island, commands the entrance to the G. of
Mexico. Montgomery, cap. of the state of Alabama, exports large quan-
tities of cotton. Mobile {Mo-heeV), by far the most important town in
the state, and, next to New Orleans, the principal port in the Union for
its export trade in cotton. Natchez carries on a considerable foreign
trade, and is the chief port in the state for the exportation of cotton.
I
ffl:
THE UNITED ST4TK3. 539
ae town oq the Ipft bank of tlie Cunilierland, here
:ent wira suapenaion-bric^ : its railway and other
ficilitiea reader it the seat of an aetive trade, Memphia, on tliu Miaaid-
•ippi, the luoat important town between New Orleans and 3t Louis, and
H great cotton depot. Little Kocb, c&p. of Arkansaa, is tbe principal
place in the state. Ifew OrleuiB, a large and flourishing city ou the left
Wnk of the Miaaisaippl, 105 m. above its month, and by far the most im-
portaot in the immense river-basin in which it ia sitnated, posaessas nn-
rtralled sdvantaaes for inland trade, and, nert to New York, is the ptin-
eipal oommerci^ entrepOt of the Union. Previous to the late ingnircc
tion, it was tlie great port for the shipment of cotton, tlie eiports of which
la 1B62 amounted to nearly one and a half million bales : tobacco, sugar,
flour, corn, lard, and lead, were also exported in enormous quantitiea.
Atutiii, cap. of Teiaa, haa only 6000 inhabitanta. Texas was formerly a
member of the Mexican Confederation ; waa Independent from 1836 to
1845, when it was anneied to the United States. GalyBBton, the most
popalous town in the state, is the principal seaport and aeat of commerce.
Centr&i. States.— St Lonia, a large and rapidly-growing city on the
right bank of the Misai.asippi, 1130 ui. above New Orleaaa, is the centra
of the overland trade with Sleiico, ia an important military station, anil
es a great tranait-trade by the Mississippi, Missouri, Illinola, and
LoaiiTills, a rapidly-increasing and well-hnilt city on the Ohio,
imiuBuiatelv above the rapids, has numerons raannfactnres, and carries
on an immense trade. Colnmbni, cap. of Ohio, conlaiua a U.S.
■caesiil. Cincinnati, neit to Chicago aud St Louia the moat populous
dty of the central states, is admirably aituated in regard to commercial
bcilitiea, and carries on an immense traffic by means of its river, canal,
and railway commnnicatlona : it is also distingnished for ita literary and
benevolent instltntiona. In the year 1800 it had only 750 inhabitants ; it
haa now 218,000. Vinayarda are ejitenaively cultivated in the vicinity.
It is the largest porii-market in America. Dayton, the fonrth city in the
state, la, in proportion to its aize, one of the leading mnnnfactDring towns
ill this group of stalaa. Cleveland, the second city in Ohio, is largely
engaged in ahlpbuilding. IndituiDpoUa, cap. and la^eat city of Indiana,
haa eitensive mannfactnres, and ia connecleil by railway with New York,
Philadelphia, and Baltimore. Detroit, the commercial, emporium of
Michigan, is largely engaged in commerce and ahipbullding : ha-i large
Iron and braaa fonndnea. and is the centre of an extetisive i-ailroail
system. Kilwankee, the commercial mart of a rich and improving
country, is noted for the superior quality of the bricks manufactureil
there. Galena, an important mining town, derives ita name from the
tttui ori obtained in the neighbourhood in large quantities : the copper-
mines are also very rich and valuable. Cbtcago, with 300,000 iniiabitant^,
■ituatad in the heart of the grain- proilucing States, is one of the largest
grain.markets in the world : It is also the great shipping depot of an im-
mense fertile r^on. Dn Bnqne, the central depot of the great mineral
region of Iowa, ships immenHe quantities of lead. The lead region, partly
in this slate and partly in Dlinois, embraces an area of 2880 aq. m. Here
zinc, iron, and miirble are also met with. St Paul, cap. of the newly-
formed state of Minnesota, at the head of the navigation of ^e JiiSHfa>
■ippi, and U m. below the celebrated Falls of St Anthony, is rapidly
. tlsing into importance. Idacoln, cap. of Nebraska since 16tit>, is situated
I on the Platte river, Omaha, the former cap., at the eaatem tertainiu of
' *>■- "■■'— "itlfic Bailroad, and on the right bank of the Missouri, here
540 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
crossed by a gigantic railway viaduct of cast-iron half a mile long. Topeka
has taken the place of Lecompton as the cap. of Kansas.
Pacific States and Territories. —Sacramento, cap. of the state of
California, is the chief depot for the northern mines : it has also extensive
commerce. San Francisco, the New York of the Pacific coast, and the
shipping port of the mineral and agricultural wealth of Califomia, has,
since the discovery of gold in 1847, grown to be a great city. Its bay,
^vhich is perfectly land-locked, and has an entrance one mile wide,
known as the golden gate, is capable of containing the navies of the
world. San Francisco is the western terminus of the recently-constructed
Pacific or Trans-Continental Railroad, which unites it with Omaha and
Chicago, from which places there are several routes to New York and the
Atlantic coast. Salem and Portland, small towns in the state of Oregon,
favourably situated in the fertile valley of the Williamette, an affluent of
the Columbia. Virg^inia, the most populous city in the lately-formed
state of Nevada, is surrounded by rich mines of gold, silver, and mercury.
Olympia, cap. of the territory of Washington, wnich is the only territory
having a sea-coast. Great Salt Lake City, cap. of Utah territory, and
tlie headquarters of the Mormons or Latter-Day Saints. Here the noto-
rious Brigham Young sets the laws of the United States and of morality
at defiance.
Capes and Islands.— See under ''North America."
Onlfs, Bays, and Straits. — Penobscot Bay, in S. of Elaine ; Massa-
chusetts Bay, E. of Massachusetts ; Delaware Bay, between New
Jersey and Delaware ; Chesapeake Bay, between Maryland and Vir-
ginia ; Albemarle Sound, K of N. Carolina ; Bahama Channel, or
Strait of Florida^ between Florida and Cuba ; Appalachee Bay, N.W.
of Florida ; Monterey, San Francisco, and Humboldt Bays, W. of
California ; Strait of Juan de Fuca, N. of Washington Territory.
Mountains. — See under "North America,'*
Talile of Rivers and Towns.— The annexed Table exhibits in de-
tail the river-system of the United States, Canada, and Northern
Mexico, together with the natural position of the principal cities and
towns contained in their basins.
1. Batint inclined to ths Atlantic Oe§an.
Riven. T<nmt. I Eiven. Tovnt.
St Lawrence, ...Quebec, Three Rivers, Massachusetts Salem, Charlestown,
Montreal, Kingston, ■ Bay, Cunlnidge, Bosrox
roroDto, Oswego, Cape Cod Bay, . . PlywumOM.
fiamilton, Niagara, Bnxzard Bay* . . . New Bedford.
Buffalo, Qeveland, ' NamagaDsett Newport, Proti-
Sandnsky. Detroit, ; Bay, dissce.
Milwaakee. . Connecticat, . . . Hasttokd, Hanover,
Ottawa, I Montreal, Ottawa. « Seehonk, I Worc«9*er.
Thames, I Lcmdon. Long Island Sd., Newhavesc.
Grand River,.. Lahsisq. Hudson, Brooklyn, New York,
Penobscot. Bangor. i Albaxt, Troy.
Kenneliec, Acgusta. Mohawk Uiica.
Casco Bay, Portland. Delawarr Bay. . .lV>viafc. n.
Piscataqna Portsmonth, Dover. Delaware R. , . Wilmiqgton, n,, Phil-
Mcrrimae, Lowell, Mandtester, adelpkia, Camd— ,
OuRCoui^ I Tkesvox
r
Itivtn.
PQlifflflO,...
JiiDH River
Tawu.
.RHding.
,Aira.R.i,is,Bommots.
' FrederielalnitB.
2. Bonn* fnci™d
.Nkw Oelkams. Baton
.FonWashiii
.Ltttlb Sock, Fon
.Nnw Albany. Louis-
vtUe. ClMinnsti,
burg, PfEtsbtug.
.Dajton. n.
MOBELU, ii.,'Leoiil
Neois. R>i.Eian,n.
Co, S^niJina, ChartiKton.
BavanDnb. SavaDnali.
to Gvif 0/ Hexico.
Chittahoocbee
AkbuTiia, ....
Oesllalaia
LiHCDLH, n., Oqib.
m^lMlpyi; ..
.D>a.-VKR,CHi;ii!BBe
e.Fort UqIdh.
ELDes Moikes.'
RsdWvar,..
Aikuuu, ..
Co orTeiu,!
.'GalvMton."'
Rio Grauds d
8aD Juan, .
.mS^bbt, a*LT,L
Cnoiber
Kenluokr
Conchas. . .
Buita Fe, I
IbaniaFb.
.N. Santander. Vic
OtK-BM
hi.
Smb.
W Pacific 0«
W. Co. Mexico
Lvia, n„ PACnuo
TranjHTEPEC, A
Lsnn
p''ifccS'"'
Wllllamette
I Portland. Saum.
Pu^^&und
Frawr,
SSl^:
Olvkpi*.
Lakw.— Tha lalies of the Untteil States are aei'
EXteBsLve, if wb except those magnificent fresh-water seus in tJie
basin of the St Lavreaco, which separate it from Ciuiailii, and whicli
ire have noticed under tliat country.
nrinclpal lakes are £., Cluimptaiii, between New York and
,T..™.I 1... >I.A 01.-1--1I— . 1 — * — . . -
Varment, draiueil by tbe Richelieu,
UudMn; Jled Lake and Itmat, iu Hioneiiata,
• On IU afflusut, the Uareed, ace tha Vi
ibya
the
542 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
source of the Mississippi ; and Pontchartrain, in Louisiana, in tlie delta
of that river. Of those belonging to the great continental basin, or that
have no visible outlet, we ne^ only enumerate the Great Salt Late, in
tlie territory of Utah, and L. Tulare, in California. The entire surface
of New England is dotted with beautiful and transparent lakes, the prin-
cipal of which are Moosehead Lake in Maine, drained by the Kennebec,
and Winnipiseogee in New Hampshire, which dischaiges its waters into
an affluent of the Merrimac.
Climate. — The climate of the United States is necessarily very
diversified, owing to the vast extent and great variety of the sur&ce.
In general, however, it is excetsive, being characterised by greater
heat in summer and greater cold in winter than any other country
of corresponding latitude.
New York, for example, has the summer of Rome and the winter of
Copenhagen ; though it is one degree farther S. than the former, and 15**
than the latter. The mean annual temperature, however, is greatly less
than in corresponding latitudes in the Old World. In the New England
s-tates, where the latitude corresponds with that of Northern Italy, the
winter is so severe for three or four months of tiie year, that the snow is
sufficient for the employment of sledges, and the ice of the rivers strong
enough to be crossed by horses and waggons. This is the coldest section
of the United States, as it not only lies m the northern part of the coun-
try, but is also exposed to the cold N.K winds of the Atlantic Id
common with all the other eastern states, it is abundantly supplied with
moisture, as it lies in the path of the S.W. winds from tne Gulf of
Mexico. The mean annual temperature of New York is 51^7, mean
winter 81°. 4, and mean summer 72**. 3. The climate of the South At-*
lantic and Gulf states is almost tropical, and, except in western Texas,
quite moist. New Orleans, in this section, has a mean annual temperature
of 69°.8, winter 55^8, and summer 82^04. The central states are sub-
ject to great extremes of heat and cold, being exposed in summer to the
not winds from the Gulf of Mexico, and in winter to cold winds from the
Arctic regions and the Atlantic Ocean. The greater part of these states
lies in the region of abundant rains, but mucn of the country between
the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains is subject to lon^ summer
droughts, and is hence consign^ to the sole use of tiie Red Indian. Tha
Pacific coast is much warmer than the eastern, the mean annual temper-
ature ranging from 60° to 50° Fah., that of January fh)m 50° to 40", and
that of July from 80° to 60°. The re^on west of the Sierra Nevada and
Cascade ranges has abundance of moisture, especially in the north ; but
to the east or these ranges the climate is characterised by great drous^t,
the vapours from the Pacific being intercepted by the mountains. Tte
rainiest districts in the Union are Florida, the low flats of the Misdsdppiy
then along the course of its valley, then Iowa and the high gronnos m
the Missouri districts, and lastly, the elevated plateau between the BockjT
Mountains and the Sierra Nevada. The rainfall at Pensacola, in Fiarida,
is 57 inches ; Monrosville, in Alabama, 66 ; Mobile, 64 ; Natcbra, 58; Jack-
son, 53 ; Rapidas, in Louisiana, 63 ; New Orleans, 52 1 Nashville, 58; Savan-
nah, 48 ; Fort Madison, in Iowa, 50 ; Jefierson, m Missouri, S8. Tbfl
average fall of rain over the Union is 37i inches, but the average number
of rainy days is smaller than in Eur6pe.
Geology.— Much obscurity still attaches to the geology of the
United States, owing in pait to the vast extent of tfie area, ■ kq^
TIIK UNITED STATEa.
543
I
portion of ivliicli is still in ths wildne
poi-tion. bttt thinly peoplsd ; and in i
of expiorera. In so far, however, as I
investigated, it nppeara that, in a geological point of view, it dilTera
very considerably from those portions of the Old World wliich have
received tlie greatest nttention. The eequence of formations is not
so complete as in Europe, there being seveml important geologt<al
perioda — for example, the Permian, Triassic, and Wealden — that
have left no visible monument behind. But, while thus deGcltnt
in some members of the series as developed in Kurope, it is ap-
parently more full in the sobordinate forroavions of some groujis
which the two t *■ ■
Crystalline rocks oceur eitensively on the Atlantic slope from New
Brunswick to Alabama, especially in the New England states and the
eastern half of New York, where they are largely in1«TSpersed with gran-
itic rocks : they also cover very extensiva areas in Wisconsin and
Minnesota ; while the great mountain-chains of the country— the Rocky
Mountains, the Allegh^es, and the Ozark Mountains— are for the most
part built up of them. Silurian stratit are sapposed to underlie more
rficeat formations throughout the entire liasln of the Mississippi, hut ap-
pear at the surface chiefly in the tollowiug locahtics : — A considerable
^ract in the state of Maine, extending from the capital to New Brunswick;
the irestem Hank of the AllBRhanies, along their entire length ; sn im-
mense circular area of about 130 m. In dimeter in the stales of Ohio,
Indiana, and Kentucky, having for its centre the city Cincinnati ; a.
smaller oblong area in TGDnessea, on the south side of the river Cumber-
land ; the northern border of New York adjoining Lake Ontario, and
eilendhig from the Hudson to the Falls of Niagara ; and, lastly, an im-
mense tract south of Lake Superior, eil«nding from Iiaka Michigan and
the Canadian frontier to the Missouri, The Sevonian system is highly
developed, not only in regard to the vast thickness of the strata and lie
great eitent of country which they cover, but also in regard to the great
variety of its organic contents. The most extensive tract of Devonian
Ftmta, BO far as yet known, is that which is bounded on the N. by Lakes
Michigan, Huron, and Erie, and on the W., S., and S. by the lUinots.
Tennessee, and Hudson respectively. The CarboEiferous system Is alao
very extensively developed, especially in the eastem states between thv
Appalachian chain and the S7tli meridian, and north of the SUbparaUcl.
The carboniferous limestone, oue of its members, occupios, morrovrT,
a wide area in the upper basin of th" Mi^o-.iw ^.-.A :„ ft... ^-nuilmriUl
baain, eapeciaily in Nobraska, WVIi' ■ ■ i .
Secondary or Mesoioio Series, so li .
Europe, it, in America, mainly ri.]
which, with its sands, clays, marls.
istie greenaand, occupies by far tli-
Union, especially between the m>i i<
' "i, including the Boulder Clii>.
ime trontiBr*— from Long loin; I
|-»ud from Lower (Uifomia to Vnri<
|inlandlromIOOtolSOm.i butinti.
(vidth cannot be less than tSO ri>
...Jin, together with naroeroaB li'
VODveied with tertiary d^Hvilts.
544 • POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Minerals. — The crystalline rocks in many parts of the Union are
peculiarly rich in metallic ores. In the Atlantic slope they contain
numerous veins of the ores of lead, copper, zinc, iron, and other
metals. They also form the matrix of the gold of California and the
South Atlantic states, and of the great masses of copper ore on the
borders of Lake Superior.
The gold-Held of California is one of the richest in the world, and yields
only to those of Australia. The gold was accidentally discovered in 1848
on the banks of the Sacramenta The total yield of the precious metals
in the Union in 1871 was 66, 633,000 dollars, of which Califomiaprodnced
20,000,000, Nevada 22,500,000, and Montana 8,000,000. The same
region yields also iron, lead, copper, silver, mercury, coal, diamonds,
and marble. Mercury is also found in Kentucky, Ohio, and on the bor-
ders of the great lakes. Rich lead mines are worked in Illinois, Wis-
consin, and Missouri. Masses of nearly pure copper have been obtained
from the Lake Superior mines, and a whole mountain of iron ore exists
in Missouri. Zinc is found in considerable quantities in Arkansas, and
valuable beds of gypsum have recently been discovered in Michigan, on
the shores of Lake Huron. Salt abounds in the plateau-region of Utah,
as well as in many other parts of the United States, and the salt-springs
of New York produce upwards of 5,600,000 dollars value per annum.
The Palaeozoic rocks, bo enormously developed between the Appalachian
chain and the river Missouri, are remarkably rich in coal. The principal
coal-fields are: (1.) The great Appalachian coal-field, extending from
Pennsylvania to the Tuscaloosa, in Alabama, embracing an area of 70,000
sq. m., and attaining a maximum thickness of 2500 ft. (2.) The coal-
field of Michigan, near the centre of that state. (3.) The great coal-field
lying between the Ohio and the Mississippi. (4.) The Iowa and Missouri
coal-field, occupying the immense triangular space which is bounded by
the Mississippi, the Missouri, and the Iowa rivers. The united area of
all the coal-fields in the United States is estimated at 190,000 sq. m.,
which exceeds twenty-fold all the coal-deposits of Europe. In 1874 there
were raised in the Union 45,413,000 tons of coal, of which 33,000,000
tons were produced by Pennsylvania. There are also numerous and in-
exhaustible beds of iron ore, especially in the Alleghanies, Pennsylvania
alone producing more than one-half of the rolled iron of the states. Great
quantities of petroleum or rock-oil are also obtained from this state.
Botany and Agricnlture.— The vegetation of the United States,
with the exception of the portion lying "W. of the Rocky Mountains,
is comprised within Schouw's fourth and fifth Botanical Regions
(p. 55).
The former of these, or the Region of Asters and Solidagos, extends
from the 35th parallel to Lake Winnipeg and St James's Bay, and conse-
quently embraces a large section of British America. This extensive
region is mainly characterised by the great number of species belonging
to the genera from which it derives its name ; by the great variety of its
oaks and pines ; and by the total absence of the heath tribe. In 1848,
tlie number of known indigenous flowering plants in this portion of the
United States was 1966 species. The cultivated plants are m general the
same as in Great Britain, Central Europe, and Canada, and consist chiefly
of wheat, maize, flax, hemp, hops, potatoes, tobacco, the vine, and fruit-
trees in great abundance. The central states are the great com-produc<«
THE L-MTEU STATES. 5-15
tag countritB, pflitioularly Illinois, Indinna, and 'Wiieonsin, Tlie region
lying betweeu iat. 3S° and tba Gulf of Meiico, and lietweeii Uib Atlantic
Ocean and the Kwky Monntaisa, is termed ths Higitm of Magholim, u
it is mainly characterised by plants of this ordsf , so raiiiarkahle foe their
lara;s odorit'crous flowers, ajiii for the tonis qualities af theii bark. Thu
coSivatad plants of tltia region are chiefly the vine, olive, fig, otsnee,
siigar-oane, cotton, tobacco, rice, wheat, maize, and other grams. The
cotton plant is cultivated chiefly in aoutb Carolina, Georgia, and the
•djaoent statee, Uw total crop tor 1878 being 3,930,508 bales of 4 cwt.
' " yenr the total export of cotton to the British market
_._.«,OUOlb.,yalnBd at £31, 6«, 000, Tohaceo is grown
chiefly in Maryland, Vireiuia, Kentucky. Tennessee, and North Carolina,
'file total produce in 1S71 being eatimatAd at £263,196,000 lb. Rice is
-Town principally in Sonth Carolina, and tha sngar-cane in LoBieianfl,
_'Iorida, and tieoi^a. The culture of the vine has made conaiderahle
progress, especially in Ohio, Pemisylvania, Indiann, and Calilomia, where
also the olive and orange Buci:eed. in order to form an ac<!urate idea of
the staple productions of the Union, let ue take a voyage up the Minsis-
■ippi, trDm its mouth lo its source ia Minnesota. In Lonisiana we find
the sugar-eane, orange, fig, rice, cotlou, nialie, sweet'potato, and forests
of pitch-pine with their turpentine oreharda. As we ascend the river to
the middle of Tuniie.ssBe, about lat. Se°, we enter tbe district of the siigar-
maple, sorghum or Indian millet, peach, and other sttme-^'uits, -wlieat,
the vine, hemp, and tobacco. Proceeding still farther up the river, to
the states flanking the great lakes, the ciimatB begins to get too cold fur
agricultural pursuits, except the production of wheat, oats, the Irish
potato, apples, live stock, dairy produce, beef, and pork, Thronghout
the whole of the northeni and eastern states ^ricultnre is pursued with
great skill, and excellent machinery is used in every department of the
operation. Hence much larger crops are produced tlian if all the work
waa done by the hand.
Zao\a^. — CoiDparHtively few wild animals are now found in t)ie
United States. As the country is beinj; settled they Rradnally dis-
»chil
'file
■■%
mo.
appear, and, except the amalfer and inoffensive apei;iei. ... __
confined to the forests of tlie Allcghanies, the western part of the
Mississippi basin, and the Rocky Mountain region. The quadru-
inana, edcntata, and pachydermBta, are unknown in the united
States ; the niarsupialia are represented by one species of opoiiauni ;
the caniivora by nunieroas species of bate, hedjnihoBS, racoons,
coatis, badgers, martens, skunks, otters, foxes, and by the puma or
cougar, which may be regarded as the Hon of tha New World ; tho
rummaiits euibrace tlie nieose-deer or Anierican elk, the antelope,
the argnli of the Kocky Mountains, and the American bison, which
in vast !ierd» roams over tlie wide j)rftiriea ol tbe west ; while the
rodents include, tlia beaver, niusquaali, and numerous other species
belonging to the squirrel, mouse, porcupine, and lisre tribes. In
13S7, the nnmber ul ninmmala in the sinale state of lows (a prairie
■tate) was ii specica. The domestic animals have all been introiluced
from Europe, Among these, swine take a praBiinaDt place lu tlie
w inaixe-producing states.
e been alily nod beatitifuily
!rs. (Jreat numbers of wild
546 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
turkeys, partridges, and qnails are found in the prairies. Reptiles abound,
and belong to every order : tortoises and frogs are especially nnmenms ;
the lizards include the alligator or ca3rman ; and the serpents, which are
about 40 in number, the deadly rattlesnake. In 184^ the nxunber ol
known fishes was 440 species. The fresh-water fishes, especially in the
Ohio, are extremely numerous; while the rivers, lakes, and sea-coasts
abound with a surprising number of molluscous animals, especially bi-
valves. The oyster trade of Baltimore is so large as to constitute a
separate branch of industrj' ; and it has been estimated that the fish and
fowl obtained from the Chesapeake alone are worth nearly as much as
the gold of California.
EthnosraplLy.— The people of the United States belong to four
'f^reBt divisions of the human family — Caucasians, Negroes, American
Indians, and Mongolians.
The Caucasians, or Whites, who embrace about six-sevenths of the
entire population, are mainly of British and Irish extraction ; but Ger-
mans, Dutch, and French are also numerous. In the New EnMand
tstates, the inhabitants are nearly all of British origin ; Dutch and Irish
are numerous in the central states; Germans in Pennsylvania, New
Jersey, New York, Illinois, and Wisconsin ; French in Louisiana,
Missouri, and Indiana; and Spaniards in Texas, Florida, and California.
The ne^ population are of African descent, and, including about
4,500,000 freedmen, form one-eighth of the entire population. They are
most numerous in the states south of the Potomac aikl Ohio, where
slavery with all its hateful concomitants was upheld by law till 1862,
when slavery was abolished throughout the entire Union. In some states,
as South Carolina and Mississippi, the negroes form a majority of the
}>opulation, while in others they amount to a very laree minorify. The
Indians, or aborigines, have greatly decreased in numoer since the dis-
covery of America by Europeans, at the end of the fifteenth century.
Tliey are scattered over 20 states and territories, besides the Indian
territory, which Congress has set aside for their permanent residence,
and now number only 883.000. Large numbers of Chinese and Japaneae
have recently entered the Pacific states, where they are engaged as la-
bourers and servants. The English language is predominant everywhere ;
but about 4,000,000 Germans, as also many of the Irish, French, Span-
iards, Chinese, and Indians, continue to sp^ik their mother tongues.
Languages, Edneatlon, and Religion. — ^Tbe English language is
predominant throughout all parts of the American Union ; but for^
eigners and all the Indian tribes continue to speak their respectiTe
native tongues. Education is universally diffused, and a laiger |no-
portion of the people can read and write than in any other conntiy,
whether of the Old or New World. High schools and grammar
schools are numerous, and there are throughout the Union no fewer
than 120 colletf^ and universities. The oldest of these is Harvard
University, Massachusetts, founded in 1636, and possessing ffae
largest library in America. The Americans are remaricable for their
intelligence and enterprise, and the skill with whidi they eairf on
all the pursuits in which they engage. Many great and nsefnl hb*
ventions have been made by them, among which may be ennmentod
the lightning-rod, invented by Franklin in 1752 ; ue dectrie tde-
graph ; the first successful steamboat i^-as constructed in the Uaitad
THE UNITED GTATi:)!. .147
Statee, and its triiJ trip made in liie Hudson ; the mtti-a-gra, fo
Mparatiiis the seeds from the fihres ; tiie eeving-inaciiiiie ; and io-
nmiMrsble improremeDtf in agricnltorsl implemeotK. Ohrutiaiiity,
in one or other of ita fDrniB, ie [be un]y i^ligian known is the United
States, vritli the exception of Uormoaiflm in tlie temtoi^ of Ctiili ;
I'Dt the THTiety of ■e<^ts is aiormons. The moEt important seetE iire
the Uethodiets, Baptists, and PreahTteriana, who nninher aboat four,
Ihree, Bui two millions respectiveij. After thpse rank tie ConRre-
gidonalists, Spiacopejians, Boman Catholiea, and Lnthenns, noBB
of vhicii far exceeds half a million adherents. Kone of the deuonii-
iistions 19 endowed hy the State, t^e ministers and clinriJieG htiug
nppuTted bj the Tolimtxry cimtjibntiouB of the people.
UteiKtiire. — The natinn being etiU in its infanry, iU literature is
not very eitenaive. The jirogreBs aiready itade, however, in eveiy
department of learning, is truly remaibahle. Kowbere is science
nutivmted with greater zeal, end nowhere are ib fotanes more highly
LoDonred. The qns,rterly jonmels and other periodicals uenumET-
ouB, and conducted in general with great ability. Of the many dis-
tingimhed names that adorn the literature of the United States wis
can meDtton only a few exiuaples : —
POBTET : Brvant, Dana, HaUeek, Hillhonafl, LnMfellow. Morris, Pe»-
hody, PanaTal, Pierpont, Mra Sieoumej. Wilooi, N! P. Willis. STiiKS-
aEli : John Qnincy AdaiTiB, CUj, T^anklln, HamilMn, Jay, JeSeison,
I^DColn, Genial Wafihington. mSTOHT : Bancroft, Dmke, Waabin^tou
Irvina, Motlev, Prescott. Ramsov. WlieatoD. GEOGaiPEr and Tkat.
K*: Cottin, H. T. CheEver, Flint, Guj-ot, Lewis and Qarke, Morreil,
Otmatead, Bobinaon, SchoDlciaft, Steven, Stewart, Taylor, Wairiner.
pHYBiail. Science: Audnhon, Bowditch, Dana, Hail, Hare, Hitch-
eoct, Maaij, Michani, Morton, Newcombe, Olrostead, Pierce, WHeoii.
MKBTiL ASB MoHAl, SaEKOE : AdalDB, Daj, Henry. Ijebar, Banch,
H^hmueker, Tapper, Cphani, WaTland. Theology : Alexander, Bomes, J
Eeecher, Buah, Channing, G. B. Gheever, Dwigtt, Edwarda, K B. ££• |
wards, Emmons, Bodge, Boptins, Uason, T. Parker, Payaon, Poa^ ■
Prime, Gtinnflr, Btowe, Todd, Woods. EcCLESLiartCii HiBToaT:
Hawl^, MnrdDck, Pond, Ranch, Kupp. ClasbicaIi akd O&iestai.
Ltteeatdhk: Anthon, BnEb, ConnsBt, Croshy, Felton, Leverett, Nord-
heimer, Bohinson, Riggs, Sophocles. Stuart. ISirner, Woolsey. Rouance :
Brown, Cooper, Inrin^, Hiss Sedgwick, M» Stov.-e. Oratohb : J. Q.
AduBi, EverBit, Daniel Webster. FlHB A«TB : Allalon, GreenouRh,
TmmbuU. Enolish LitbhatPrE akd MiscELLAKEora : Abbott. Apne",
Cast, Delofield. Drake, Enieraon, Irving, Mather, M'Canley, M'CuDocli,
Tiitier, Soah Webster.
apvanmumt. Ann;, Bnll Va.vy. — The eoremiriFiTt of the Unitnl
_£MtesiB a confcderat-r' -— '•'■■''■• '■ ' '- ■'■- "■-■— ■"■■tttinn of 1787:
548 POLirrcAL geographv.
of 50,000 dols., with an official residence ; and is assisted in the govern-
ment by a vice-president, chosen in the same manner as himself, and by
a cabinet of six ministers of his own selection. He is commander-in-
chief of the army and navy, and, with the cononrrence of the senate,
declares war, makes peace, and. appoints ambassadors, judges, and other
officers. The present president, Ulysses Grant, bom in Ohio in 1^2,
who acceded to office on the 4th of March 1869, is the eighteenth indivi-
dual who has held that high office. The senate consists of two members
from each state, who are chosen by the legislatures of the different states
for a term of six years, one-third of the number retiring biennially. The
vice-president who has a salary of 10,000 dols., is the president of the
senate. The House of Representatives consists of one member for every
93,423 inhabitants; the present number being 292. They are chosen
biennially by the citizens of the several states, in all of which the suf-
frage is universal. Their duties and functions nearly correspond to those
of the members of the British House of Commons. No bill becomes a
law until passed by both Houses and approved hj the president. The
president may also veto any act of Congress ; but it may yet become law
if re-enacted by two-thiras of both Houses. Each of the territories
enjoys the privilege of sending one delegate to' Congress, who has a right
to speak, but not to vote. In 1875, the actual strength of the regular
army amounted to 27,525 men of all grades ; but during the late civil war,
probably not less than half a million combatants on either side were
drawn up in deadly array against each other. The total military ex-
penditure for 1869 was 80,474,545 dols. The naval force in 1874 con-
sisted of 48 ironclads, 63 steamers, and 26 sailing vessels, carrying in
all 2406 guns. The navy estimates for 1871 amounted to 28,205,000
dols. The national income is mainly derived from taxes on property,
land sales, and customs duties. The total amount of income for 1875
was £79,400,000; the expenditure, £63,800,000; and the public debt,
£425,000,000. In December 1857 the debt amounted to only 25,000,000
dols. The enormous increase since is to be attributed to the civil war.
Manufactures and Commerce. — The industrial pursuits of the
people may be reduced to three leading heads — Agriculture, Manu-
factures, and Mining — which have their principal seats in the Mis-
sissippi, Appalachian and Rocky Mountain regions respectively. At
present agriculture is more extensively carried on than either of the
others, as thQ resources of the manufacturing and mining regions
are not yet fully developed. The great agricultural staples of the
Southern States are cotton, rice, sugar, and sweet-potatoes ; those of
the Northern States being the different grains, Irish potatoes, and
hay. Manufactures are most extensively carried on in the north-
eastern states, owing to the abundant water-power in that region.
The chief manufactures are iron and cotton, in which the United
States rank second only to Great Britain. In the manufacture of
iron, the states that rank first are Pennsylvania, New York, and
Ohio ; while New Hampshire and Massachusetts rank first in cotton ;
California, Nevada, and Montana, in the precious metals. Owing to
the deep indentations of the eastern coast, the numerous navigable
rivers of the interior, the magnificent lakes that skirt the northern
frontier, and the vast network of railways which is spread over the
fx>nntry, the commercial facilities of the United States stand per-
r
THE CSITED STATES. 549
hajit nnriTalleJ mnoiig the nFitions, while the actunl titeut of it»
tmde is second only to thnt of Britiiin. The foreign trode, thoogh
shared in by all the states, ia principally confined to the nine
iiorth-eostcm ststea, among whicb New York and MassnchusettB
stand pre-emioEut. Tbe eiporte consist almost entirely of agricul-
tural prodncB, especially wlieat, flour, rice, cotton, tobacco, maizo,
pork, haoiB, butter, and cheese. The total exports from the country
in 1874 amounted to £133,606,000, tno-thirde of which went to Grnat
BKtain and Ireland, the rest being taken principally by Canada, tbe
British West Indies, ond Germany. In 1S60, immediately before
the civil war, the amount of cotton sect to the British market vbs
1,116,000,000 lb.; in 1863, it fell to 6,000,000; but iu 1873 it
iWainroHB to 832,537,000 lb,, of the computed value of £31,5*4,000.
The imports in tbe snme year amounted to £119,172,000, tbe chief
items being sugar, woollen g;ooda, iron and steel, silk, flue cotton,
llaz, coQee, ten, and breadstuffs. The imports from theBritish Isles
amoonted to £17,000,000. The domestic commerce is greater than
GTUl the toieifpi, owing to tbe unparalleled facilities in inland com-
munication which this eountry aflords. The grand ai'tery of internal
rce ia the Mississippi, which sends its ramifications into
all parts of the Uniou. These uatui'al facilities are supple-
^jBented by canals, the most important of which is the Erie Cniial,
iffbich, connecting the Hudson with Lake Erie at Buffalo, unites th«
i^eat lakes with the Atlsotic. Sevend other oanala connect the
Mississippi with the great lakes, as the Ohio, Miami, Wahaeh, and
lUinoia canals ; while the PennsylvBDm Canal, between the Ohio
and the Delaware, caunectB the Mississippi with the eastern Ben-
hoard. The railway system of the Unit^ States dates from 1S27,
when the first line was opened at Quincy, Massachusetts. At the
end of 18£I tbere were SS80 miles of railway open for traffic i while
on the 1st Janaary 1874 tbere were no fewer than 72,623 miles open,
besides 27,G07 projected or in progi'CBS. The average cost of con-
stnictton has been 40,000 dole, per mile. The Great Pacific Rail-
road, connecting San Francisco and Chicago with New York, vid
Omaha in Nebraska, by far the most gigantic nndertaking of the
kind in existence, was finished in May 1868. The total length of
the liae, from San Francisco to Omaha, is 1914 miles (sea above, p.
fi40). Aa yet, this is the only important line ofrajlnud west of the
UissDuri ; but the vast area lying between that river and tbe Atlantic,
and from the Ohio to the great lakes, is one unbroken network of
railways.
HiBTORicit. Sketch. — This portion of the continent wan discovered by
Columbus in 1483. Abont twenty years aftflrwanls the Spaniards took
poHesslon of Central An>erica; titer which, crossing tbe Gulf, they
entered MeiiciTlof which fexn* then (ormeil a paii), and finally settled
in Florida, while thelrposssssion on the Pacilic coast eitendgd to near
the Colnmbik river. The French ejitered the continent by the G. a! St
[ {lawrence in 1536, and some time thereafter took possession of the basin
— 'the Uissiseippi down to theO. ol Uei^ico. Tbe first permanent Fug-
ih settlement was mode at Jamestown, Vireiuia, in 1607, or more than
muDicaiio
»«im(»t all
rented bj
iffbich, co:
rieat lake
550 POLITICAL GEOGRAPUY.
a hundred years after the discovery of the continent ; and the next at
Plymouth, Massachusetts, in 1620 : while in 1774 England possessed no
fewer than thirteen flourishing colonies on the Atlantic seaboard. In
1614, the Dutch founded the settlement of New Amsterdam, at the mouth
of the Hudson, but were expelled by the English in 1664, who changed
the name of the settlement to New York. The English now took posses-
sion gradually of the entire Atlantic slope ; after which they peneteated
westward, and drove out the French fix)m the basins of the Mississippi
and St Lawrence. They conquered Canada in 1754, and in 1763 tne
French gave up all claim to the lands east of the Mississippi, with the
exception of New Orleans. Owing to fiscal disputes between the British
(rovemment and its colonies, the latter became disaffected, and held a
congress at Philadelphia in 1774. The English Parliament asserted the
right of the Crown to tax the colonies even without representation. This
led to the War of Independence, which commenced with the battle of
Ijexington, 19th April 1775, and ended with that of Yorktown in 1781^
when Lord Comwallis, the British commander, surrendered to General
Washington. Peace was declared in 1783, Great Britain acknowledging
each of the thirteen colonies to be a ftee, sovereim, and independextt
republic. The present American constitution was adopted in 17^, when
General Washington was chosen as the first President of the United
States. In 1803, the United States purchased from the French Louisiana
and the whole French region west of the Mississippi. In 1821, Florida
was ceded by Spain. In 1845, Texas, having rebelled against Spain, was
admitted into the Union ; while California was ceded by Mexico in 1848.
Great prosperity succeeded these acquisitions, until 1861, when, owing to
the great question of abolishing the slave trade, the Southern States—
thirteen in number — seceded from the Union, and formed themselves into
a Confederate Republic, with Richmond as their capital, and Jefferson
Davis as their president After a lengthened contest of the most san-
guinar}' character, the fleets and armies of the Northern States at length
triumphed, and slavery was finally abolished. The country is now re-
covering its former prosperity. Alaska, formerly Russian America, was
purchased from the Russian Government in 1867.
MEXICO.
fioundaries. — ^N., Texas, New Mexico, and California ; W.,
the Pacific Ocean ; S., the Pacific, Guatemala, and Belise ; E.,
the Caribbean Sea and Gulf of Mexico. Lat. 15° 40'— 32° 47'
N.; Ion. 87° 4'— 117° 8' W.
The city Durango, cap. of the state of same name, is situated almost
exactly in the centre of this extensive area, and on the same parallel
with San Salvador in the West Indies, Mourzouk the cap. of Fezzan,
Muscat, Bhopal, Dacca, Canton, and the Sandwich Islanos. The form
resembles a cornucopia, with its mouth directed towards the north. The
extreme length, from the head of the G. of California to Central America,
is 1800 m. ; the extreme breadth, from C. Corrientes to C. Catoche,
amounts to 1300 m., but across the Isthmus of Tehuantepec it does not
exceed 137 m.
i<[i:xico.
551
Area and Population. — The area is estimatec! liy tlie most refent
authorities at ?73,12S sq. m., or six timas tUe area a( the British
Idles. In 1873 the population, tncIuilinB Yucatui, was estiiuateil
ate,273,079, orHtimua the populatioQ of Ireland.
Political SlTkloiiB.— Up till 1665 the confederation conaisted of
27 states, 2 territories, and 1 federal diatriet, makiua in all 30 poli-
tical diviaione. These are now subdivided into SO departments,
which are ia general named after their capitals. For historical and
rther reasons, we prefer adhering to the old anangemeLt.
NOBTBEHN StATEB.
I.OWEB California (Ter.}— La Paz 1 (S.E. coast).
SoNORi.— Urea 7, Pitic 8, Sonora 8, Arispe 7 (Sonora).
Cbibuahda. — Chihuahna 12 n. (Conchos, ajl. Kio del Korte).
COAKUILA.— Saltillo 8 (Sau Juan), Santa Hoaa 10 (Sabinas).
New Leok. — Monterey 14 n. (San Jnan, ajH. Rio Grande).
Tahaulipas. — Victoria 6, New Santander 6 (Santander), Iilatii-
1 20 {Rio Grande del Norte).
Sah Li7I3 PoTosi,^ — San Luis Potosi 3* n., Vallea 4 (Paiiuco).
Zacatkoas. — ZactttBcas 31 n. (Santander).
Aduab Cahentss, — Agoaa Calientea 23 (Santiagol.
DlTKANOO. — Durango 12 n. (Culiacan), San Juan 10 n. (Nasas).
SiNALOA.— Culiacan 10 (Ciiliacsn), Sinaloa 10 (Sinaloa), Mazatinn
IS (W, coast).
Centhai. States.
Xalisco. — Ouadalniara 70 u., Topic 2S ii. (Santiago).
CoLiMA.— Colima 32 (Colima).
OHOACAK.— Morelia 37 n. (I.erma), Zamora 6 (L. Chapak).
GcAHAXiTATO.— Guanaxuato63n.,Leon8D, Salamanca Ifi(Lemia).
QuEBETAno.— Queretaro 48 n. (Lenna), San Juan del Rio lU
(Pale).
Mekcco.— Toluca 12 (Lernia), Teiciico 10 (L. Tozcuco).
Federal Dibteict of Max ico.— Mexico 230 (L. Tezcuco).
HlDALQO.^Pnohuca IB n. (Panuco).
MoRKLOB.— Cuemavaca 7 n. (liio do Eabzaa).
Tlauoala.— TlaaoaU i (Nasca).
Vera Ckvz.— Vera Cruz 10, Tampico 7, Xalapa 37 n, \fi- "t
Mexico).
Pdebla.— La Poebla B7, Cholula 10 {Nasca).
SoimiERN States.
GuERRBBO. — Tiitlft G n., Aeapnlco 6 (Pacific),
Oaiaoa.— Oawca 25 (Rio Verile).
Tkhuanibfeo {Ter.)*— Tahuatitepeo 1* (Tehnautejiec).
■ Bclonp lo
A Cnttsl Slalti.
552 POLITICAL GKOGRAPUW
Chiapas. — San Cristobal 10, Cindad Real 7, Chiapas 15, Commitan
10 (Tabasco), Palenque n. (Usamasinto).
Tabasco.— San Juan Bantista 6, Tabasco (Tabasco).
Yucatan. — Merida 24 n. (G. of Mexico).
Campeachy. — Canipeachy 15 (G. of Mexico).
DescriptiYe Kotes.— La Paz, with a celebrated pearl-fishery in the
vicinity, now nearly abandoned. Sonera and Arisve have rich gold and
silver mines in their vicinity. It is said that the nou^ehold utensils in
Arispe are nearly all of pure gold. Chihuahua, surrounded by silver
mines, has numerous smelting furnaces. Saltillo, a well-built, handsome,
and important towa, with extensive woollen manufactures, and a laige
annual fair. Monterey, the most important place in Northern Mexico :
near it are valuable gold, silver, and lead mines, tfatamoros exports
specie, hides, wool, and horses. San Luis Fotosi, an important town,
maintaining an active home and foreign trade. Zacatecas, the principal
mining city of the state of the same name, all the towns of which are
extensively engaged in mining silver,— the neighbouring mountains being
the richest in the world in that precious metal. Aguas Calientes, so
named on account of the hot sprinas in its vicinity, is admirably situated
for trade. Dnrango, a consideraole place carrying on a good trade in
cattle and leather, and having iron mnies in the vicinity. Mazatlan, a
cheerful, well-built town, greatly superior to any other on the Pacific
coast of Mexico. Guadalazara is, after Mexico and Leon, the most
populous city of the Confederation. It was founded by the Spaniards
in 1551, has well-supplied markets, and extensive manufactures of cotton
shawls, and of jars made of scented earth. Guanaznato, in the centre of
one of the richest mining districts in tlie world, stands on the plateau of
Anahuac, 6869 ft. above the level of the sea. Queretaro, noted for its
n)aguificent aqueduct, 10 m. in length, and for the ratification of the
treaty of peace in 1848 between Mexico and the United States. Tezcuco
derives its chief . interest from historical associations, and from the
remains of antiquity which it contains, especially three vast pyi*amids,
and a palace said to be that of Montezuma, the last of the native Mexi-
can princes. Mexico, cap. of the Mexican Confederation, is universally
regarded as one of the finest and wealthiest cities in the world, though
in population it does not much exceed Edinburgh. It is situated in a
spacious plain of about 1700 sq. m. in area, at an elevation of 7468 ft.
above the sea-level. When taken by Cortez, in 1621, it occupied several
islands in the Lake Tezcuco, from which it is now 2.^ m. distant. The
churches and other public buildings contain a vast amount of wealth in
statues, vases, candelabras, balustrades, &c., composed of the precious
metals, and ornamented with diamonds and precious stones. Pachuca,
cap. of the new state Hidalgo, is celebrated for its silver mines, the most
valuable in Mexico. The existence of these mines was known to the
Aztecs before the arrival of the Spaniards, and they were acquainted
with the process of smelting the ores. Vera Cruz and Taxnpico, the
Principal seaport towns of the Confederation on the Gulf of Mexico,
lalaua gives its name to the drug jalap, which grows here wild. La
Puehla, noted for its numerous churches, and its manufactures of soap,
glass, iron, and steel. Acapulco, a seaport town on the Pacific coast,
with a fine harbour, and rivalling Mazatlan in the extent of its com-
merce. It was once celebrated for the rich Spanish palleon which
annually departed from it for Manilla laden with the precious metals of
MEXifO.
lleiicn. and returniriE wiUi tl
^ leuL Tohnmittpee, niiar th
tlie isllirouB of same name, was in 1853, togethsr with i
Fid to the United Stataafor 25,000,000 doUnra. Merida, co
port, Slial, by a good road, has a Moorish aspect, havu
I
I
^
SL, ,-,_.
built at a time when timt atyle prevailed in Sp!
peachy, cap. of a new state of same name, and the principal seaport town
of the pBDinsnla, ia strongly fuitijied, and haa a good export trade in
Caiiea, Bstb, and Qnlft.— See under " Iforth America."
Moimtaliis and Table-Landa. — The mountain -system of Mexico ia
altogether peculiar. Almost the entire country consists of an enor-
Moufl plateau raised by volcanic forces to an afevation vorying from
6000 to 9O0O ft., and ramifying aa the land grows wider into aBveral
dlTerging chaiits.
This plateau, known as the tableland of Anahuac, attains ila highest
elevation between the capital and Vera Cruz, or ahont the parallel of 19'
N. In this latitude, and proceedii^ from E to W.. are the followuiK
Jottyyolcanio peats— viz., Orizaba, n.Hl ft., now eitinct; Pupocate-
petl. one of the loftiest peaks in North America, 17,881 ft.; Nevadn (le
Tolnca, 15,250 ft. ; and Jorulio, which, on the night of 28th Beptflniher
175B, rose from the level of the plain to a height of 4149 ft. All tliese,
except the last, rise above the line of perennial snow, which in this lati-
tude has an elevation of about 15,000 ft. North of Guanaiuato the ele-
vated mass ilivides into three branches, the central of which beniie to tbs
N.N.W. till it enters the United States, and merges into the Rocky
Mountains, about lat. H' S. (See above, p. 506.|
niTsn and Lakei. — With tbe exceptfon of the Hio Grande del
iSorte, on the N.E. frontier, the Santiago with its tributary the
liOma, and the Rio Colorado, which forms the boundary between
SoDora and Old California, the rivers of Mexico are generally mere
torrents, which, rnslung from the elevated table-land, reach the sea
after a short ponrae. (For the towns, see table ander " Uniteii
atat«a.") The Jakes on the Mexican table-land ara very numeroiia,
and many of them of volcanic origin. The largest are Chapala, be-
tween Xalisca and Miuhoacan, 60 m. long ; Parraa, in Coahuila ;
Texciux, nnd four others, in the immeiliate vicinity of the capital ;
whUe several large salt-water tagpona fringe the coast of the Gulf of
Mexico, the chief of which are Tampico and Termiaos.
OUmats and Vasstatlan. — Owing to the great elevation and semi-
tropical position of Mexico, the climate is exceedingly various. Two
regions, however, may bediatinguishad— the tro[iical(ti«Ta aiiiehU),
and the teinperele {tierra lemplada) or cool region.
The Gist embracea the low grounds on the east end west sides, to the
ieight of 2000 ft., having a mean annual temperature varj-ino; from 68"
fHi. in the D., to 78^ in the H. It produces in abuodance all the ordi-
■aary vegetation of the tropins, including maize, manioc, cocoa, pepper,
Manilla, indigo, cotton, coffee, sugar-cane, and the lianiuia ; but the e>-
eeasive heat and the great fall of rain render it alnioat uninhabitable.
Tills region afibrde an admirable illustration of the raaiim in physical
gtOEiapSy, that wherever vegetation attains its must luxuriaiit aevelrn>.
554 POLITICAL OEOQRAPHT.
ment, tbeir human life languishes. An intermediate r^on of small
extent embraces the slopes of the table-land to the height of about
6000 ft Here the climate is mild and gentle, and the regetation includes
most of the cereals and fruit-trees of £uiope. The cool region embraces
the whole remainder of the country, including the vast table-land. The
climate, though agreeable and healthy, is excessively dry, and the mean
annual temperature at Mexico is 61** ; while the vegetable productions
include the Mexican oak. pine, agave, arbutus, dahlia, geranium, and
cactus. Among cultivated plants may be mentioned the potato, which is
extensively reared, and which in its vdld state is sometimes met with at
an elevation of 10,000 ft. ; maize, wheat, barley, and Spanish pepper or
capsicum, which is consumed by the inhabitants in enormous quantities.
The cacao, from the seeds of which chocolate is made, and the vanilla,
which imparts to the chocolate a peculiar flavour, together with the
medicinal plants sarsaparilla and jalap, are indigenous to Mexico and
the West Indies, and were found here growing spontaneously when the
country was invaded by the Spaniards. Among the cultivated plants of
^texico there is none more imi)ortant or characteristic than the maguSy,
from the sap of which is prepared the favourite drink of all classes,
pulque ; it tnrives on the poorest soil, so that near a town or populous
district a plantation of it always forms a valuable estate.
Kinerals. — ^Mexico has Ions been celebrated for its minerals, and
especially for the inexhaustible supply of the precious metals which
it contains. To obtain possession of the latter was the great motive
that led to the discovery and conquest of the country on the part of
Spain early In the sixteenth century. More silver has been obtained
from its mines than from all the rest of the world ; while the produce
of its gold mines has only been inferior to those of Peru, and latterly
to those of California and Australia. The silver mines, which had
been long neglected, were partly reopened in 1864. The most cele-
brated silver mines of Mexico are those of Pachuca and Real del
Monte (situated about 60 m. from the capital, and belonging now
to an Anglo-Mexican company), San Luis, and Guanaxuato. Gold
abounds chiefly in Sonora and Oaxaca. In 1860, an extremely rich
quicksilver mine was discovered near Pitic, in Sonora, which pro-
mises to give a new impetus to mining operations in Mexico. Valu-
able copper mines are also wrought in Chihuahua ; iron ore is abun-
dant in Durango ; tin, lead, zinc, and antimony in several states ;
but, hitherto, coal has nowhere been found. Salt and carbonate of
soda are obtained from several lakes.
Zoology. — The wild animals are exceedingly numerous, comprising
the bison or American buffalo (which in mid-winter enters the conn-
try in immense herds from the forests of the north-west), the tapi^v
jaguar, puma, ocelot, tiger-cat, weasel, sloth, glutton, ant-eater,
porcupine, grizzly bear, wild swine, and monkeys. The feathered
tribes exist in countless numbers, and reptiles include the Mexican
crocodile, the alligator, cayman, and rattlesnake. Perhaps the most
useful animal in the Mexican fauna is the cochineal insect, which
yields, next to the precious metals, the most important article of
export. The domestic animals, with the exception of the torkey, a
native of this region, were all introduced by the Spaniaids ; for, not-
r
MKirco.
555
wifhsUndiliK the deKree of ci
had atUineii, they did not ]ia
Ethnosraphy. — The popnlntion of Mexico is composed, as in other
Spanish Americnn states, of three distinct raeea — ahorisinal Indians,
Europeaua, who are nearly all Spaniards, and Africans or Negroes,
who were formerly in a state of alaverj-. Besides these there are
rarioilB mixed races — meatiEos, xamlios, mulattoea, quadroons, Ac.
The Indian papulation la by far the mo^t numerous, being estimated
tn 1S72 at 5,000,000 : tbey rorui tha great mass of the labouring popula-
tion, are averse to the mechanical arts, and in many places assErt a viM
independence. The Europeans or whites are lei^oneil at about 1,000,000,
>nd form the wcaltbieat and most ponerM section of the community.
The nagroea do not exceed 6000, and are rapidJy decreaaing in number,
notwitbatanding the abolition of slavery. The Mataoi, formed by the
commingling of Euiopean and Indian blood, number about 1,500,000, and
are gentu^j engaged in trade and meclianical pursuits.
LufaOAQEB AND CiviuaiTIOH. — SpBaish is the univeiBal language of
the white population, and the general medium of intercourse ; but no
lewer than thirty-five distinct tongues are spoken by the varioua Imliaii
tribea -within the limita of Meiico. The chief of those ia the Mexican or
Aztec, which waa the language of the semi-dvili^d tribes at the time uf
the Spanish conquest of tlie country. It possesses the same general charac-
teristics aa the other American tongues, and is closely allied to them In
internal structure. The ancient Mexicans, Tcltecs, and Yucatanese had
attained to a very considerable degree of civilisation before the arrival of
the Spaniards, in the early part of the aiiteentb century. Tiiey possessed
K regular monarchical government ; tbey had stationary abodes, and
pUFSaed agricnlture with success ; maize was the staple crop, and ca&so
was cultivated for chocolate ; mining was extensively practised, and the
precious metals sold in the markets ; they were well Bkilled in architec-
ture, raised great adificfls, constructed vast palaces, pyramids, roatiji,
aqueducts, and bridges. The remaina of aculpture found in Mexico are
nnmerous, and of great variety of form and material. Feather-painting
Traa a favourite art, in which the gor^ous plumage of tropical birds was
employed to produce exquiaitoly-tiniehed pictures. Tbey bad a more
accurate calendar than the Egyptians, Greeks, or Romans; while the
splendid ruins of Paianque exhibit medals, musical instruments, coiosivil
statues, and well-eiecuted flgurea in low relief, adomoil with characters
which appear to be real hieroglyphics. By means of these they were able
tie record many facts connect^ with th^ national history. They usually
wrote on cotton doth, on the prepared nkins of auimals, and on a specie)
of paper made of the leaves of the great aloe, similar to that luaunCao-
tuiVd by the ancient Egyptians fmm the papyrus, Numerous manu-
iicripts, executed in this mode of picture-wntiug, Tforo committed to the
" mes by the Spaniards; but a few preciona relics still survive in some
the libraries of Europe.
1 BeuoiDH.— The eatabliahed religJon, and. Indeed, the only one iscog-
fased by the eovemment, ia the Roman Catholic ; and though others are
pBterated by law, yet, jimettcally, iunumerahle restrictions are Imposed
Proleatantisra. Almost the entire whlt« population are devoted
,n Catholics, and, with few exceptions, the Totariea of pleasure,
.igacy, and crime. The Aztecs and sthar Dative tribes also profna s
556 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
nominal adherence to that Church, interweaving its ceremonies with the
idolatrous rites of their ancestors.
OoYemment and Fixumce. — From the conquest of the country, in
1521, till 1824, Mexico formed one of the four great Viceroyalties
of Spanish America, and was sadly misgoverned. In the latter year,
a representative, popular, and federal republic was adopted, which in
many of its features resembled that of the United States.
The president was elected for four years. The legislativepower was
vested m a general congress, consisting of a Senate and Chamber of
Deputies. The deputies were elected by the people for two years, — there
being one for evei-y 80,000 of the population. The laws were said to be
exceUent, but the continually - recurring insurrections and revolutions
rendered the executive power little better than nominal. The state of
civil war having apparently become chronic, Great Britain, Spain, and
France resolved, in 1861, on an armed intervention. The two former
powers abandoned the enterprise at an early period, but the French
army, after experiencing many reverses, at length obtained possession of
the capital, ana set Duke Maximilian of Austria on the throne. After
reigning three years, this heroic p^rince was, in 1867, betrayed into the
hands of Juarez, the former president, and cruelly massacred. Juarez
was then re-elected president, and the constitution of 1824 re-established.
The republican army in 1867 numbered 35,000 men, but it does not now
exceed 21,000. The naYv consists of 9 small vessels, carrying, in th0
aggregate, 35 guns and 300 marines. The revenue in 1874 amounted
to £3,700,000, the expenditure to £4,800,000, and the public debt to
£79,100,000.
Commerce and Industry. — The commerce of Mexico is consider-
able. The exports consist of metals, cochineal, indigo, hides, cattle,
cacao, vanilla, jalap, and a few other medicinal herbs. In 1874 the
exports were valued at £6,338,000, of which £500,000 were sent to
Great Britain. The imports in the same year amounted to £5,800, 000,
of which England sent £1, 194,000 worth. These consisted chiefly of
manufactured goods, earthenware, firearms, hardware, and machinery.
The manufactures are unimportant, consisting chiefly of a little cot-
ton, silk, and woollen cloths, soap and candles, gold and silver
utensils, and ornaments. Agiiculture is greatly neglected, and much
of the land cultivated by the Spaniards is now lying fallow ; but the
natural fertility of the soil causes it to yield a sufficient supply for
the wants of the inhabitants.
Inland Communication.— The roads are deplorably bad, and im-
practicable for wheel-carriages. The descent from the table-land to
the sea is everywhere precipitous, and presents such difficulties in
the way of carrying goods as will probably always cut off the interior
states from a fair participation in the commerce of the globe. Mules
are the only beasts of burden, and vast numbers of them are employed
by carriers and in the mines. Railways are of limited extent In
1874 there were 327 m. open for traffic. The principal line is that
connecting the capital with Vera Cruz. Other 300 m. are in process
of construction. The principal seaports are Campeachy, Vera Cruz,
Tampico, and Matamoros, on the Gulf of Mexico, with Mazatlan
and Acapulco on the Pacific coast.
I
I
CENTRAL AMERICA.
Boundaries. — N.W., Yuoatun and Cliiapas ; S.W., tlie Pacific;
E., the U. S. of Colombia and the Caribbean Sea. Lat. 8°—
18° 30' N.; Ion. 82° ao"— 93° W.
La Union, on Fonaeca Buy, ia the centra at the u'ea thus indicHted, is
1 the BBiuB pnnillel oC latitude witli the Islnnd of St Lucia in the Weat
Indios, Bathurat in W. Africa, Lake Tchad, Aden, Madras, Bangkok,
■nd the PhQipnine Isles ; ami on the same meridian aa Mobile and Lake
Michigan. The greatest length from N.W. to S.E. is about 900 in.;
tlie breadth varies from 70 to SSO m.
Population, and Political DtviBliMiB. — Central America
iDotuprises aix states, Hve of wbich am independent rt-publica, and
4H1B (Belize) a Bntiah colon;. The united area in estimated at
Bq. m., and the popiilation (in 1871) at 2,605,410. Henca,
though 14 times ths size of the British Isle«, the population is only
two-thirds that of Scotland. (See Table of North American States.)
Guatemala. — New Guatemala 4.^ n. (Montagua), Quesaltenaugo
SO (Samala), htapa (W. coast), St Thunias (IC. coast).
San Salvador. — San Salvador 20 n., Sansonate S. Acajutl.i, l.a
liibertad (W. coast). La Union (Ponseca Bay), Cojutepeque 16 n.
(L. Ilopango).
Honduras. — Comayagua 8 n. (Ulu»), Jntiwalpa 10 n. (Patook),
Vmoa 2, Tnudllo 6 (O. of Honduras), Tefiuci^lpa 12 (Choluteca).
KiOABAClTA. — Managua 10, Leon 25 n. (L. Leon), Granada 10,
Hicaragua 8 (L. Nicaragua), Rialejo 5, Mas.4ayB IS (Paci&c), San
JUBD de Nicaragua, Blewfields (Mosquito coaot).
Costa Rica.— San Jos* 25 n., Cartago 5 n., Alabuela 10 n. (Rio
Grande), Punta Arenas (G. Nicoya], Port Culebra (Pacific).
Belize, or BaiTisa Hondubas. — Balize or Belize 6 (Balize).
Descriptive Notes. — Now Bnatemala is a mean-looking citjr, occupy-
ing a wide area, as llie houses are all of one story, owing to the frequent
flbrthquakea. The exports ara nnmerous, consisting cbieQy of sugar,
cotton, coffee, cigars, dye-woorls, and other native products. Quesalten-
KafO ranks nest to the capital tor the ejttent of its trade and the variety
of Its tuaouractnres. The chief exports are wheat, eacao, sugar, woollen
and cottou fabrics. Istapa and Bt Tliomaa are the principal seaports of
the state. Ban Salvador, nswly rebuilt, after having been destroyed by a
terrible earibqnake in 1S51, ia again the cap. of stute of eame name.
Ao^jntla and La Libertad, on Uib PactDc, wjtTi La Union on the Bay of
Fonseca, are the prinuipal seaports of San Salvador. Comayagoa, for-
tnerly Valladolid, cap. of the state of Handoras, lias a college and several
convents. Omoa and Tmiillo are the principal seaports of Honduras ;
the former is very iinhealtby, and is the liottest place in the New World,
Tegucigalpa has gold, silver, and copper mines in its vicinity. Uuiagna,
the present cnp. of Sicaragiia. Leon, the former cap., a now grcutly
^Cayed: its public ediQces, which include a magnilicenl Gothic cathedrul,
'560 POLITICAL GEOGRAPUY.
opossum, tapir, peccary, fallow-deer, hare, sloth, squiiiel, armadillo, and
monkey. Tiie other classes of the animal kingdom are all extensively
represented (p. ^). The domestic animals are, for the most part, the
same as In Eiut)pe.
Ethnograikliy. — ^The population of Central America greatly re-
sembles that of Mexico. The larger portion of the inhabitants are
aboriginal Indians ; probably fewer than one-tenth of the whole are.
of European origin ; w^hile the remainder, who are named mestizoa or
ladinoSy are a mixed race, having sprung from the union of the white
with the native Indian population. The whites are most numerous
in Costa Rica and San Salvador. The negroes form but a small frac-
tion of the population of Central America.
The Spanish language prevails over all Central America, being now
spoken by the ^reat mass of the Indian population, except in Guatemala,
where the aborigines have evinced a greater tenacity for the dialects and
customs of their forefathers. The Roman Catholic religion prevails every-
where, but the nunneries are open to the public, and the inmates can
leave them when they please. A small portion of the Indian population
in tbe different states, more especially in Honduras, continue m their
original idolatry. Central America was discovered by Columbus in 1502.
In 1527 it was made a Spanisli Captain-generalcy, and remained attached
to the Crown of Spain tiU 1821, when Guatemala first declared its inde-
pendence. The other states speedily followed its example, and, after a
severe struggle, succeeded in casting off the yoke of the mother country
in 1823. Subsequently they formed themselves into a confederation
under the title of the '' United States of Central America," which was
dissolved in 1839 ; and they now exist in the form of five sovereign and
independent republics. Ever since their independence there have been
much anarchy and bloodshed among them, greatly aggravated by fili-
busters from the United States. Each state has its own president,
vice-president, senate, and assembly of deputies, who are chosen by
electoral colleges ; while the Spanish laws have been replaced by codes
modelled on those of the United States. Guatemala, which has a million
of inhabitants, is by far the most populous and flourishing state, and has
enjoyed a greater share of tranquillity than any of its neighbours.
Industry and Commerce. — The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in
agricultural pursuits, in felling timber, and in the transfer of produce
to the seaboard. Mining employs only a limited number of the
population. The people of Costa Rica grow great quantities of
coffee, while those of Guatemala are largely engaged in manufactures
and in the productijon of artificial flowers and embroidered work.
The principal exports consist of silver and other metallic ores, ma-
hogany and other valuable woods, dye-woods, indigo, cochinealt
hides (chiefly from Nicaragua), sarsaparilla, balsam, tobacco, cigars,
cacao, rice, coffee, and sugar. In 1868, the total exports of the fiw
republics amounted to £1,665,142, and the imports to £l,i81»885.
The principal imports are British and North American manufactures^
together with silks, wines, and gloves from France, and linens and
glass from Germany. The total revenue for 1869 amounted to
£1,087,633, the expenditure to rather more, and the pnUiodebltc
£1,631,350.
WEST INDIES AND BERMLDAS. AH I
Sellza or Brltltb Hondnias lies K of the peninsula of Yucatou
and N.E. of Guatemala, and extends aloug tha Caribbean Sea, tram
the Rio Hondo on tlie H. to the Kio Sarstoon on the H. Aloug the
const it is low and awampy ; forests of niHhogany and cedor occuiiy
tbe interior; and the boiI in the valleva is moderately fertQe. The
climate is rooiat but nut unhealthy, the heat, though great, being
moderated by aea-breezL'S. The colony is well adapted for Taising
sugar, coffee, cotton, tobacco, and iudigo. The fauna enibra<^es
Dances, panthers, tapirs, deer, peccaries, agoutis, armadilloa, and
monkeys. Birds, fish, and turtle are abundant ; niaiiatis and allica-
tora frequent the lagoons. The population, numbering about 25,031),
is composed chitfly of negroes, woo wera tirst brought to the countiy
as slaves. Tlieuuite inhabitants are ex elnaiTely occupied in ngricul-
lure and commerce ; the negro, in cutting mahogany and dye-woodi
(or exportation, and in fishing. Tlie yalne of the exports to Great
Britain in ISSS amounted to £139,210, and the imports from Gttat
Britain to £133,883. Till recently the colony formed a dependency
of Jamaica, hut the government is now vested in a lieutenaut-
govemor, an executive council, and a legislative asselnhly. It vaa
discovered by Columbus in 1503. Its possessioD was long disputed
by the Spaniards, but it was finally yialded to Britain in 1783.
I
I
WEST INDIES AND BERMUDAS.
Position anii Boundaries.— The Antilles, or West Indies,
Cdnsist of a huge archiptlayo of nearly one thousand islands,
extending in a curvilinear line between the petiiusuk of Floridii,
in the United States, and the dejtft of the Orinoco, in South
America ; and separating the Atlimtic Ocean on ita N. and E.
I'rom the Caribbean Sea and G. of Mexico on its S. and W.
Jjat. 10' to 27= N.; Ion. SS" to 85° W. They are culled Jw(«/f.!
from their position being opposite to the Aiuerican continent,
and Weit Indifs from Columbus, their discoverer, inia^iuiuy
that they foiined the nearest portion of India, a westerly passage
to which he was in quest of.
The entire Archipelago {■ phynicalty diviiied iul« four itistitict groups
— vii., 1. The Bahama or Lucayo Islands, about SOU iii number, tj.E. of
Florida, tbe lafgar islands belne; Oreat B.i'iflnm, Al-aivJ, Elpiitlnrn, >few
Providnuue, Andros, Siiu Holvmbr. Lotji; IfilniiJ. Ai-kliti. Mrid^.Tjiiiin, and
Great laagua. 2. Tl,.- ■ ■ ..iJ
Central ADiericO, auo ■ .; ■,
nclndinglheVlighil^. ■
Jlartinique, 8. Cnt:i:i.
I Triniilad. J. Tha U""
|> aistini; chiefly of ilui^.u
o62
POUTIGAL GEOGKAFUy.
Area, Poiralation, and Political Relattoni. — The area amonntf
to 93,650 sq. m. (without including the Bennadas), or constder-
ably more than the area of Great Britain ; while the population at
last census amounted to 4,202,400, or one-sixth the population of
Britain. With the exception of Haiti, which now coniosts of two
independent states (Haiti in the W., and Dominica in the E.), and
some of the Leeward group which belong to Venezuela, all the West
Indian Islanda are in tlie possession of European nations. About
one-half of the whole area, including the large island of Cuba,
belongs to Spain. Great Britain has the next largest share, alter
which rank France, the Netherlands, Denmark, and Sweden.
Table op West India Isla^tds.
1
1
ISLAMIML
OoTcniBMnt
Area in
Bnidish
PaviatlMt
OniMis.
Haiti, San Domingo, or Hiapaniola,
Cuba, Porto Rico, Isle of Pines, \
and two of the Virgin Isles. 1
The Bahamas, Jamaica, and most
of the Windward Islands— (Tri-
nidad, Tobago, Barbadoes, Gre-
nada, St Vincent, St Lncia, \
Dominica, Montserrat,Antigna, '
St Christopher, Barbuda, An-
guilla, and most of the Virgin
Isles, . . • . . /
Ooadeloupe, Desirade, Martin- \
ique, Marie Galante. Les 1
Saintes, northpart of St Mar- (
tin— all in the Windward group, J
CuraQoa, Bnen Ayre, Orul^ Los'v
Boqnes (Leeward Islands), Stf
Eostatios, Saba, and south part V
of St Martin (Windward Is- 1
lands), . . . . J
St John's, St Thomas, Santa Cruz \
(Virgin Isles), . . . t
St Bartholomew (Windward Isles),
Haiti and Dominica.
Spain.
Britain.
France.
XetJierlands.
Denmark.
Sweden.
2S.031
49,478
15,051
1,005
S68
119
10
708,500
8,085,000
1,064,500
887,408.
80,161'
87.881
1.898
Total,
98,050
4,808,400
The following are the principal cities and towns of the Archi-
pelago : —
Independent. — Port-au-Prince 81, Cape Haitien 10 (in Haiti),
San Domingo 15, Santiago 12 (in Dominica).
Spanish.— Havana 200, Santiago 37, Mantanzas Sd, Porto Prin-
cipe 30, Holguin 8, Bayamo 7, Trinidad 13, a Espirita 11 (in Cnbi^^
San Juan 15 (in Porto Kico).
British. — Nassau, cap. of Bahamas, 7 (New Providflnofl)t Spamib
Town 6, Kingston 32, Port-Royal 15 (Jamaica), Fort BudEa U
(Trinidad), Scarborough 3 (Tobago), Bridge Town SS (BntadMit,
St George 4 (Grenada), Kingston 5 ^S. Vincent), CattrieiSQL Uaek
WF.ST INDIES AN1> BEUUUIIAI:.
I
5C3
KoBeBU 5 (Dcmliiica), Plvmouth (JIostBerrait), St Joliii 14 (Antigua),
Bssae-Tetre 7 (St Chriatoplier), Koad Town (Tortola).
French, — Basse-Terre 5, Poiot-i-Pitre 20 (Gmideloupe), Fort
Jloyal 12, St Pierre 23 (Martinique).
Dutch. — Williamstadt or Cura^oa 7 (Curai;oa).
Dahibh.— Chrietianatadt 10 (Santa Cnu), St Thomas (St Thomss).
SwBDifiH.— Gustavia 10 (St Battliolomew).
DescTiptive Votes. — Pdrt-an-Princs, formerly cap. of the island San
Domingo, and now of the Haitian republic, ia a^loce of Bome commercial
importance, aituated on the W. coast. San Somuigo, cap. of the re-
ELtilii; Dominica, was the first permanent settlement made by Europeans
America, having been founded in 1502, and ia now the oldost exiBtiug
city in the New World. The bones of Columbus reniaiticd in the cathe-
dral of San Domingo till 1795, when they were reiuoved to Havana.
Hkvuia, cap. of the island Cuba, on its northern coast, is the largest city
in tha West Indies, and oue of the greatest commercial marts of thti
western world. About one-half of the inhabitants are whites, the re-
mainder being slaves and free coloured negroes : its principal article of
manufacture la cigars, which have long obtained an almost universal
celebrity. Santiago, a fortiSed town on the S.E. coast, is the oldest
town in Cuba, of which it was formerly the cap,, and is still, next to
HaTana, the most commercial in the island. Porto PrincipB, in the in-
terior, is a poor, ill-built, bnt lai^e town. San Jnan, cap. of the island
Porto Bico, is strongly fortified, has an excellent harbour, and is a large,
weli-built town. HMaau, in New Providence, the cap. of the Bahama
Islands, is a neat, well-built town, with spacious etreeU, bandaome houses,
and a considerable trade : the prmcipal exports are cotton, pimento, and
■alt. SpUiiBh Town, cap. of Jamaica, is a small ill-built, and unhealthy
town. Klngiton, the chief commereial city in Jamaica, stands on a 6ne
harbour on the S.K coast; it is well built, lias eiteniive trade, and
steam communication with Eugland and several West Ind' an ports Port
SapBlU, cap, of Trinidad, is a liandsonie town on the W coast, wit! a
spacious harbour and conaiderable trade. Brid^ Town, cap of Etarbn
ion, England's first colony, is a large, gay, and handsome town on3 o a
of the strongest military posts in th* W^st Indies 8t John p 1
Antigua, istheseatof government of the Leeward Is ands Baaae Terre
with a harbour defended W several battsriiw, u the ap of t e Br
island St Christopher ot St Kitt's. BMie-Terre cap of t a Fns
island Guadeloupe, ia the raaidence of t^n a 1 hu ni
schools and a botanic gardeii. StPiT" ''■■' •"
town of the French We't IndloB. v
queen of Napoleon 1. 'WHliamsi.
Dutch West Indies. Christiaiiata'i
the Danish West Indies, haSoB ti
battery, and ia the chief entTepGh ■
ta,Tia, cap. of island 3t SarthnI: i.
Snr&M ajid KonntsdnB.— Til'
I aity of aspect— Mme hdng tuiu'
/>64 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Rhoals. The Great AntUles consist of one immense mountain-chain, e:^-
tending, with certain interruptions now occupied by arms of ^e sea,
from Cape St Antonio in Cuba, to the eastern extremity of Porto Rico,
and thence prolonged tlirougli the Lesser Antilles to tiie N.E. coast d
South America. It attains its maximum elevation in tlie K end of Cuba,
where the Sierra del Cobre reach to the height of 7200 ft. Haiti is tra-
versed by parallel mountain-chains, Mount Chaco being 8900 ft. high.
The Blue Mountains, in Jamaica, vary from 6000 to 7150 ft. ; in Porto
Rico the height does not exceed 4000 ft. ; while many of the Lesser An-
tilles rise to elevations of between 4000 and 5000 ft. The majority of the
islands are of volcanic origin, but many are of coralline formation. Vol-
canic action is now confined to the Windward Isles, from Grenada to St
Eustatius, La Souflfrifere in St Vincent being an active volcano, from which
considerable eniptions have occurred in modem times ; whUe many others
Jiave vomited ashes and lava within the historical period. St Domingo
and Jamaica have repeatedly been the scenes of some of the most tre-
mendous earthquakes on record ; while the earthquake of Guadeloupe,
which occurred in 1843, destroyed the town Point-^-Pitre, when 6000
people perished.
Climate. — With the exception of the northern Bahamas, which lie
beyond the tropic of Cancer:, the entire West Indian Archipelago is
situated in the torrid zone. The heat is consequently very great on
the lower grounds, where, however, it is tempered by the sea-breezes,
which generally blow in the afternoon, when their cooling agency is
most needed. In the elevated regions of the larger islands me tem-
perature is usually cool and delightfully pleasant.
Snow is never known to fall, but slight frosts occadonAlly occur in the
mountainous districts of Cuba. The annual mean temperature at Havana
is 77*'.9 Fall. ; mean winter, 73" ; mean summer, 82**. 4. When the sun is
in the southern hemisphere, the Archipelago enjoys the benefit of the
trade- winds, blowing from N.E. and E.N.E., and diffusing over it a re-
freshing coolness ; but when the sun has passed the equator, the trade-
winds retire northward and are replaced by south-eastern winds, which
are warm and gentle. The year is divided into two seasons— the dry and
wet. All the islands south of the 18th parallel have two dry and two
wet seasons, and this is also the case with the southern shores of Jamaica,
Haiti, and Porto Rico. The long dry season sets in about the end of
November, and continues till the beginning of March, during which time
the sky is cloudless for several weeks and even months in succession.
The long rainy season commences in July, and continues till the month
of November, when the min falls in torrents, but rarely lasts for many
hours continuously. It is ushered in by violent gusts of wind, accom-
panied by terrific thunderetorms, and during their continuance the de-
structive yellow fever and other diseases are prevalent. On some of the
islands the annual rainfall is enormous ; thus at Guadeloupe it is said to
amount to 192 in.; Cuba, 142 ; Haiti, 107 ; Barbadoes, 72 ; and Jamaica,
50 ; while the average rainfall over the Archipelago is 60 in.
Natural Products. — The copper mines of Cuba form an invaluable
source, of revenue to the Spanish crown, and mines of excellent coal
have been discovered. Gold, silver, copper, tin, iron, and rock-salt
are found in San Domingo, but the mines are now unproductive. In
Jamaica no metal is known to exist, except lead and copper, both ol
WEST IMJlF.a AND BERUUDAS. SfiS
*}ii(:h are now being minfd nith aflvantsge. Porto Rico contaioi
suma cold, copper, iron, lead, nnd coal, but no mines have lieen
wrouRlit until very recently: The mineral products of tha smaller
i<ilaTids are unimportaut. Salt ia plentiful in the BaJiamu Istaads,
anil aaphalt in Trinidad.
The floTs is intetmedlalfi between that of South and Central America,
from hoth of which, however, il ia distinguiahed by its great quantity of
ferna and orchidaceous plants. Among the principal articles which the
Archipekgo auppUea to ihe commerce of the world are coffee and sugar
(both of which were introduced hy Europeans), ram, molaaaea, cotton,
tobacco, cigars, arrowrDot, and Jamaica pepper. Other articles of lees
importance ara indigo, ginger, cochineal, logwood, and various other
medicinal plants and dye-woods ; tt^ther with mahogany, lignum-vitie,
and otber trees whose woods are susceptible of the nnest polish. The
frmts are nnmeroue and highly luxuriant, comprising the pine-apple,
cocoa-nut, pomegranate, mango, guava, orange, bread-fruit, and banana.
Maize, or Indian-corn, ia extensively grown throughout the Archipelago,
forming the main staple of food. The wild quadrnpeds which existed in
the Archipelago when the Spaniards flrst arrived were the agouti, peccaiy,
n»coon| Indian do^, and wild-hoar. These ere now all extinct, with tue
exception of the wild-hog and monkey, which are still found on several
ie Bouthem islands
the more northern
a have long
of Cariba in the
Etbnograpliy. — At the time of their discovery, tl
were inhabited by the fierce and warlike Cariba; t
by a gentler race, the Arrowauka. Both these n
been extinct, irilh tha exception of a few families
islands of St Vincent and Trinidad.
The indiscriminate and wholesale butchery of the natives will ever
remain an indelible stigma on the Spanish name. The tint settlement of
the Spaniards in Cnba took place is Ifill ; and in less than half a centnry
afterwards, the aborigines, who are supposed to have amounted to at least
1,500 000 persons, had become extinct. Tlie inhabitants of Haiti, esti-
mated at 1,000,000 were in like manner rednced, in the lirat fifteen yeara
afterthearrivaiof the Spaniards,to60,000,andinnui6yenrsmore to 10,000.
The present popnlation, amounting to nearly four millions, consists of
three classes — v/hitea, negroes, and inulattoea. In Cuba and Porto Bico
the negroes conatitnte about one-half of the entire population, in tha
British islands about three-fourths, and in the others about two-thirds.
The descendants of white parents bom in the West Indiea are termed
Creoles, those of mised parentage, Mulattoes. The negroas were Intro-
duced as slaves from AlHcn, but slavery ia now abolielied in all the
itianda except those belonging to 9pain, which now enjoys the unenviable
distinction of being the only civilised country In the Old World which
directly and avowedly esn'ies on the slave tiiide in all its horrors. The
nnmber of slaves in the Spanish W. Indies is about 7D0,O(lO. Slavery
was abolished in the colonial possessions of Grtat Britain In 1834, when
the British Parliamant voted tor the liberation of the negroes no leas a
tarn than twenty million pounds sterling — a sum unparalleled for auch a
fnrpose in the annals of our race. The slaves in the Dutch coloniea were
berated in 1883.
lage and Riliffion. — The languages principally Biwlien in the
idits ara Spanish, French, and £nglieh — Spanish in Cobs and
566 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Porto Rico, French in Haiti and most of the French possessions, English
in Jamaica and the other islands belouginff to Britain|, except in Trinidad
ami St Lucia, where French is spoken Toe Roman CathoUc is the most
prevalent religion, but Episcopacy is established in the British colonies,
'fhe negroes and mixed races in the several islands generally speak the
lan^naure and profess the religion of the white race dominant in each.
In Trinidad, however, there exists a Mohammedan n^ro commanity,
the only one in connection with the western world.
Education and Oovemment, — Education is at a very low ebb in the
West Indies, not excepting the British possessions, m(^ of the opulent
persons in which send their cliildren to oe educated in the mother coun-
try. Codrington College, in Barbadoes, is a thriving institution, and the
most important educational establishment in the Archipelago. Haiti
was formerly held partly by France and partly by Spain ; but about the
beginning of the present century au insurrection of the black population
took place, which resulted in their complete independence. Tnere are
now two native governments, both republican : one named Dominica,
mnsisting of the Spanish part of the island ; and the other Haiti, of the
French part. Cuba and Porto Rico are each governed by a CAiptaln-
C General appointed by the Spanish Crown. The government of the
French possessions is conducted by a Governor and Colonial Council of
French residents ; that of the Dutch is vested in a Stadtholder, assisted
by a Civil and Military Council. The government of Jamaica is vested
in a Governor and a Council of 8 members, half of whom are nominated
})y the Crown, and a Legislative Assembly. The Bahamas, Bermudas, and
each of the other British islands, have a representative government con-
stituted after the model of that of Jamaica.
Industry and Commerce. — The cultivation of the soil is entirely per-
formed by the negro population, who alone are capable of enduring the
intense heat of the lower grounds. The amount of sugar and other ar-
ticles of export from the British West Indies is greatly less than it was
Itrior to the emancipation of the blacks, and very many of the planters,
formerly employing slave labour, have been ruined. The prindittl canaes
that have led to this disastrous result are the unwillingneas of the free
negroes to engage actively in agricultural labour, and the low price of
sugar, arising from the unequal competition of the slaveholdxng pltnters
of Cuba and Porto Rico. The Exports from the British islands to the
home country consist chiefly of sugar, cotton, spirits, cacao, cofTee, log-
wood, pimento, guano, ginger, sponge, and arrowroot ; whOe the Impox^
from Great Britain comprise apparel, arms, leather, iron, cotton, woollen,
and linen cloth, drugs, soap, candles, hardware, rice, beer, and wine.
n^otal Exports to Great Britain, in 1874, amounted to £4,318,000, and
the Imports from Britain to £2,465,000. The Spanish islands in the
Fame year exported to the United Kingdom goods to the valne of
£5.109,000, the principal articles being unrefined sugar, tobacco, bd^
cigars ; while we, in turn, exported to tnem £2,752,000 worth.
The Bermudas or Somers Islands, 580 m, E. of South Caio-
lina, and about 900 m. N.£. of the Bahamas, CQnsiflt of a gioi^p
of about 300 small islets and rocks belonging to Britain. IftL
32° 20' N. ; Ion. 64° 50' W. The largest, named Long Ialii«'
is only 180 ft. above the sea, while most of the oUiBii j
SOLTH AMEuici. 567
I •cftTcriy rniEecl above the water. Aren, alioiit 24 sq. m. ; pup.
n 1871, lil£L Eevenue, i33,000 ; Expenditure, X32,O0O.
Tlrey are of eorelline forniHtioti, contain neither sprinp nor streams ;
I tan Uie sail ia t«rt3e, climate mild and sulubrinus. Biid the fmitc of both
tPDpical and temperate regiotia are raiBod in great ahnndanoe. The cnltore
of the oiaDge in extending, and the urovroot i> eoiiBidered of enjellent
qualitj. Uore than haU of the mbabitants are blacke and people of
mixed odIdoi. Hamilton, tha cap., aitiiated [>n Long laland, and St
Georpe, on an island of tht lame name, are tbe onl; towt in the group.
Tbe Bennndaa are chiefly eerviceahle as a naval station and penal aettle-
nent. On the island Ir^and, vhich is EtiDngly fnrtilied. and one of the
moat impurtnnt naval ^Ijons in the BriUeb colcnieR, an extenstTe dock-
yard hae been constractdd caloulatod to be of peat importance to Britain
in the ovent of a war with the Tlnttod States. They were diacovered lij-
Jaan Bermudei, a Spanish narigatnr, in ln22; the firet settlemuut wu
made on them in 160B, Hinca wl.icb thej liove remained in the posaasaioQ
flf England.
I
SOUTH AMERICA.
1. Boimdaries.— N^tieCiiiLbeaa Sea ; W., Central America
«iii.l the Pauitic Ocean ; S., tite Antarctic Ocean ; £. atid N.E,
He Allanlic. Lat, ]S° 28' N.— BS'SS' S.;lon. 35° 20' — sa" T\'.
It tlini smbrscei BBj" of laL, and nearly 48" of Ion. Point Gallinai,
its Dortliani Ertramity, is on the ume parallel vith Capes Boxo and
CuinlaftLi in Africa, the cities Aden, Uadjaa, and Bangkok in Asia, aud
•--- '- "-mtralAineriea; while itBcentml point cut. 22° S., Ion. 58" W.I
oms latitude with Lake Ngami in K Africa, N.W. Cape in
and Tarija in Bolivia, It fonne tbe sonthem oontinBnt of tlie
Eew World, aa Africa does of the Old, and is EomiiKted with the uortheru
lanlineiit bjtbe Istbntus of PansmA and the Archipal^ of theAntJIlen.
■4lie shime approiimatas to a riglit-angled triangle, with the right anglu
■jAtaated near Pajshyba in BrazQ. The extreme Isn^ is about 4800 m..
Valid the maiintum breadth about 3000 ni. Tlie cuast-Iine is estimated at
m ttiwaida of 12,000 m., being only one-half of that of N. America; but
P Ait deficiency of seaboard la in a greBt cnuasare compensated for by t)ie
unber of large rinis, which are in general navigable nearly to
rea and PupUlatloii.— The aggre^te area of tlie dilTei'etit
kate^ m exhibited in the followtng table, is 7,028,206 tn. in., ami
568
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
states; but if we regard the Granadian and Argentine Confedera-
tions as forming one state each, the number will be reduced to 14.
With the exception of Brazil and Guiana, all the states of S. America
have adopted the republican form of government ; and it is a re-
markable fact, that while all the colonial possessions of Portugal
contained in this continent have been kept entire in the form of an
empire, enjoying the blessings of a staole government, those of
Spain have fallen asunder into numerous republics, which are in a
state of chronic disaffection.
Table op
South American States.
Kamr.
Area in
Ens. Square
Milea.
Population
at last Ceiinia.
Caktax.
Rirer. Ac, on
which the
Chpital UandiL
U. S. of Colom-
bia . . .
514,325
2,900.000
Bogotft . . .
San Francisco.
Venezuela
426,712
1,784,194
Caracas . .
n. N. Coast.
Ecuador' . .
219,000
1,308,082
Quito . . .
Esroeraldas.
British Guidna
99,925
215,200
Georgetown .
Demarara.
Dutch Guiana
62,850
69,834
Paramaribo .
Surinam.
French Guiana
85,080
26,137
Cayenne . .
I. Cayenne.
Brazil . . .
3,231,000
9,70 -,187
Rio do Janeiro
E. Coast.
Pen\ . . .
610,091
2,500,000
Lima . . .
W. Coast.
Bolivia . .
374,480
1,987,352
Chuquisaca .
Pilcomayo.
Chil6 . . .
116,043
2,0fi8,'147
Santiago . .
Mapocho.
Argentine Conf.
896,900
1,840,000
B. Ayres . .
Rio de la Plata.
Paraguay^ . .
75,000
221,079
Asuncion . .
Paraguay.
Rio de la Plata.
Uruguay' . .
66,800
450,000
Montevideo .
Patagonia
Total .
400.000?
80,000
Pnnta Arenas
Str. of Magellan.
7,028,206
25.099,512
4. SurfELce. — The Andes, a vast mountain-chain, with its plateaux
and declivities, stretch along the western coast from the Isthmus of
Panami to Cape Horn, dividing the continent into two unequal
slopes, and covering nearly a sixth part of the entire area.
The remainder of the surface consists, for the most part, of three im-
mense plains, watered respectively by the Orinoco, Marafion, and Parang
The first of these, named the Llanos , is bounded on the N. by the east-
em chain of the Columbian Andes, and on the S. hy the Parim^ and
Pacaraima Mountains, which separate it from the hasin of the Amazon.
It is one of the most level portions of the earth's surface, having, at a
distance of 450 m. from the ocean, an elevation of only 192 ft. The
basins of the Marafion and Parang, lying south of it, are enclosed between
the Andes on the west and the Brazilian mountains on the east. The
former of these is the largest river-basin in the world, having an area of
a million and a half sq. m. It is separated from the Orinoco by a water*
parting so low that the Bio Negro, one of its principal tributaries, sends
off a branch, named the Casiquiari, to meet the Orinoco— the two basins
thus merging into one another ; while the Madeira, another of its tribu
taries, rises only a few mUes distant from the head- waters of the Paraguay,
which finds its way southward to the Parang, both lUlufiats Domg uavi-
BOUTH AMERICA. 569
p LIb to their sources. Tliese three va^t rivcr-baains tire thus virtually
intsrlocked, and a mighty circle of inlanil navigation, which is without a
parallel in any other part of the alobe, ia establislied by natural meana.
6. lattmtna. Penl&anlaE, and CBjna. — lathmna of Panamli, tiiiiting
Southern with Ceutral America ; Peninsala of Paraguaoa, N.W. of
Venezuela ; Peninaulaa of Tres Mootes and St Josef, on the W. and
E. aides of Patagonia ; Caps St Francisco, W. of Ecuador ; Blanno
and AgnJB Point, N.W, of Pom ; Froward, the most S. point of
the American continent ; Horn, the Bouthemmoat extremity of the
Kbw World, S. of Tierra del Fuego ; Corrientea and St Atitonio, E.
of Buenos Ayree ; Sta Uaria, E. of Uruguay; Frio, St Thom^, and
St Boque, E. of Brazil ; Branco, the most eaaterly point of America ;
Do Norte, N. of Brazil ; Point Gallinas, N.E. of Hew Granada, the
northemmoat point of South America.
5. IsJaudB.— The Galapagos, W. of Ecuador ; Chineha Island^
W. of Peru ; Juan Fernandez, W. of Chili ; Chiloe, WenSngton,
and Madie de Dios Archipelago, W. of Patagonia ; Tierra del Fuego,
S. of Patagonia ; Falkland Mea and South Geo^^ S.E. of Fata-
gociia ; Margarita, Tortuga, Buen Ayre, and Curafoa, N. of Yenez-
Tlie Galapagos— so calle'I by the Spaniants liecansa thev abound in
tmloUet- are a group if islands situated under the equator, 760 ni. W. of
Ecuador. They are thirteen in number, are all volcanic, generally sterile,
and uninliahited. Tlie flora and fanns are to a large extent peculiar,
e.^ecially the birds and reptiles. The Chlnoha Islands, wth their rich
deposits of excellent guano, oonatitnte a nniie of wealth to the Peruvian
Government. Juan lemandez is famous as having been the residonra
of Alexander Selkirk, whose adventnraa suggested the well-known tale of
' Robinson Cruaoe.' Tierra del Tuego (" laud of hre"), so named from
the volcanoes with which it abou:ids, cnnsists of a cluster of islands off
the S. coast of Patagonia, from which it is separated by the Strait of
Mn^Uan. Some of the islands are level and pcatty wen wooded, pro-
lating, are among tl
a group of about ti
Britain, in the South Atlantic Ocean, a . _ . _
Fueao; area, 4741 aq. m. ; pop. 662, consisting chiefly ol
istafrom Buenos A yres. Vessala paaaii ■' " — ^^
ing-sliips frequenting the Sonth Seas, a .
and fresh water. South Georgia, about 1000 m. E. of Tierra del Fuego,
is a hXeolk anil barren region traversed by lofty mountains which are
conitontly covered with snow — the heat of summer being enfficient only
to melt the snow on the toiv grounds of the N. £. side, fhe neighbour-
ing seas abound with seals, and aea-fowl in great numbers frequent the
7. Bas'i Ovlti, and Btialts. — Bay of Panaioi and Gulf of Guaya-
quil, W. of Colombia ; Strait of Magellan, between PataB;onia and
Tierra del Fuego ; Gulfs of 3t George and Sau Mafias, E of Pata-
gonia ; Estuary of Rio rle In Plata, between Bnenoa Avrea and Uru-
guay ; Al! Sftiiits' Bay, E. of Brazil ; Rio Pari and Estuary of the
3 o
570 POLITICAL GEOORAPHY.
Amazon, N.£. of Brazil; Gulfs of Venezuela and Darien, N. of
Colombia.
8. Moontain-Systems. — This continent is traversed in the direc-
tion of its greatest length by the Andes (Span., Cordillera de loa
Andes), in some respects the most magnificent chain of mountains
on the earth's surface.
Commencing at the Isthmus of Panami and the Ouibbean Sea, it ex-
tends along the Pacific coast of the continent to its southern extremity,
being a total length of about 4500 m., with a breadth varying from 40 to
400 m. Though greatly inferior in elevation to the Himalaya, it far sur-
passes the latter in length and in the extent of surface which it occupies,
in some places the chain forms only one ridge, as between Cape Horn
and the 20th degree of S. latitude, while in others there are two or more
Parallel ridges, supporting between them highly -elevated table-lands,
n general they present a very steep slope towaids the Pacific coast, to
which they maintain a parallel direction at an average distance of firom
20 to 160 m. No other chain on the earth's surface can vie with tiie
Andes in the number and grandeur of its volcanoes. The number of
active craters is reckoned at 24, and of dormant ones, 32. Proceeding
from N. to S. the following are the loftiest summits — those distinguished
by an asterisk being active volcanoes : — 1. Thb Andes op Quito, ex-
tending in three parallel ranges from the Caribbean Sea te the 5th degree
of S. latitude. They embrace the table-land of Quito, 9600 ft. in eleva-
tion, and fianked by some of the most majestic volcanoes in existence.
*Tolima, in central chain, lat. 5" N., 18,020 ft. ; *Pichincha, on the
equator, 15,936 ft. ; ♦Antisana, S.E. of Quito, 19,137 ft ; ♦Cotopaxi,
S.S.E. of Quito, 18,875 ft. ; Chimborazo, 21,424 ft Height of snow-line,
15,800 ft. 2. Andes op Peru, extendiug in three parallel ranges from
lat. 5" to 14" S. — the western range being the loftiest: Knot of Huanuco,
11,800 ft. ; Nevada de Sasaguanca, N.E. of Lima, 17,904 ft. 3. Andes
of Bolivia, forming the central and most elevated portion of the system,
extend in two gigantic longitudinal ridges from lat. 14" to 21" S. : Sorata
or lUampu (lat. 15" 30' S.), 21,286 ft. high, till recently considered the
loftiest summit of the Andes ; Chiiquibamba, 15 m. N.W. Arequipa,
21,000 ft. ; Illimani, 21,181 ft. ; Cochabamba, 17,073 ft. ; Cerro de
Potosi, 16,152 ft Height of snow-line, 18,000 ft 4. Andes of Chile,
extending in one mighty ridge from lat 21" to 42" S., though of inferior
average elevation to the Andes of Bolivia, contain Aconcagua, 22,276 ft,
now generally regarded as the culminating-point of the entire chain;
•Volcano of Chilian, 16,000 ft. Height of snow-line in the S., 8600 ft.
For the other mountain-ranges of South America, see under "Colombia,"
" Guiana," and " BraziL"
9. Rlver-BaslnB and Capitals. — With exception of the Desagaa-
dero, which flows from Lake Titicaca, in the Basin of Continental
Streams, all the rivers of South America belong to one or other (rf
three oceanic basins — those of the Pacific, Atluitic, and Cuibbean
Sea. The rivers flowing into the Pacific are mere mountain torrents;
the Magdalena is the only one of importance that finds its way to
the Caribbean Sea ; but those inclining to the Atlantic comprise the
most gigantic rivers on the earth's surface. Of these, by far the
largest is the Amazon or Maranon, whose direct length is 2100 m.*
and including ite windings, nearly 4000 m. • It is nayigable for
SOUTH AMERICA, 571
■ iwge vessels from its mouth to the influx of the Ucayali, and toi
[ Wnall craft to tha very foot of the mountains, while twenty great
rivers, all navigaljle to their soarcea, discharge their contents into ita
itream — thus affordinf! an immense inland navigation of about
iO,ODI) m., and draining on area Torionslj estimated from 1,500,000
;o 2,000,000 sq, m.
.........
"i-r
Orinoco.,
TocantlrB,
I'flraaihybo,...
Paiand,
lOM
72,000
!6a,M0
i.MaloM
204,180
116,300
asfl.MO
BooOTA' (U. SUI«i of Colonn.l»\ Me-
DBLtlH, TOKJ* CBOVKCS), PoFiTHH
Maoaos or Bam (Rio Neera), Lb P«,
EiilUcion (Beui), S»nta Cnu, Cocha-
bunbi.
Macayo (ilagoM^ Semipe. Onro-Pteto
UoBii ViDKi (tniRoW), Bncoe Avbm,
Pab«k»' (Bntre Bioi), Banta Fe-, Cob-
LUIB, CUKDOIA, BiHTisno, Tdcitmab,
C.TAKABCA SaLTA, JcJDV, CHCUDI-
s.c. (Bolivia), Tarsia, Potaal, Cnyabs
(MoUo GroBso).
■0 very fnw P'
10. Lakes.— There ai
in South America, and
with the larger river-basins.
On the table-laud of Bolivia, at a
MtiMCll, nest to Sir-i-Kol, in Cent. .'
D elevation of 12,546 ft., is Lake
laia. the highest lake in theworld,
wivu lui uica ui uearij »uvii 84. m. It la drained by the JJeaagnadero,
wliich carries its surplus waters to Lake Uroi, a Bmaller sheet of salt
H-ater about 200 m, to the 8.E. Lake Maraoaybo, in the N.W. of Venei-
uela, has an area of about 5000 sq. m., and is connected nith the sea by
a narrow channel 12 m. long. Lake Dob FatOB, in the S.E, of Brazil.
5000 sq. m., diaohai^es its waters into the Atlantic bv a channel naraeil
Bio Grande do gul. There are nameroDs lakes in La Plata, between the
Andes and the river FaranA, the chief of which are Onuiacaclie and J
Silverio.
11. Climate.— With two-tbirda of its area situated hetween thft J
tropica, the climate of Soutb America ia necessarily very hot^ 3
Though yielding in this respect to Afrira, the corresponding coattl'1
cent of the Old World, the temperature is coasideiably higher tbaiM
that of North America; for while the latter has its maniuum breadt^P
in the arctic rcgioni, South America attains its greatest width ii
572 POLITICAL OEOGRAPUY.
owing to the low temperature of the Antarctic Drift CuTrent, which, set-
ting oat ftt)ni the Antarctic Ocean, flows north-eastward against the
shores of Chil^, then northward along the coast to the vicinity of the
equator. The highest mean annual temperature occurs in the northern
parts of Guiana and Venezuela, where it amounts to 81° Fah. South
America is also characterised by great moisture, which attains 'its maxi-
mum in the extreme north, where the temperature is highest, but which
is everywhere more copious on the eastern than on the western side of
the Andes. Within the tropics the wide plains on the east are deluged
by the heavy periodical rains from November to May, while the narrow
margin between the Cordilleras and the Pacific is almost entirely rainless.
In some places the deposition of moisture is surprisingly great : on the
north coast of Dutch Guiana 229 in. fall annuallv, and in certain localities
on the east coast of Brazil no less than 276 in. have been observed. As
the rainy season, however, is confined to a brief period, the number of
clear days is much more considerable than in onr temperate climates ;
while during the long-continued drought that precedes it, the ground is
parched, the sun glares with intense radiance, and the wild animals, tor«
niented alike by hunger and thirst, perish in great numbers.
12. Geology.— The geological struettire of South America is still
less known than that of the noi*them continent.
It is understood, however, that Crystalline and Granitoid rocks prevail
throughout the entire range of the Andes from Panam^ to Cape Horn, as
also in Colombia, Guiana, and the whole of central and southern Bnizil,
from the river Paraguay to the Atlantic, and from the 10th degree of
south latitude to the Rio de la Plata ; that the Palaeozoic and Transition
series occupy a large portion of the table-land of Peru and Bolivia, around
Lake Titicaca, together with a long narrow belt along the eastern flank of
the Andes, from the source of the Pilcomaya to the northern frontier of
Patagonia, as also a broader tract in the upper basin of the San Fran-
Cisco ; that the Secondary formations are very moderately developed,
being confined chiefly to small areas in the central basin of the Orinoco,
and along its affluent, the Apur6, to similar patches on both sides of LaJce
Maracaybo, with a still smaller one in Peru, north of lima ; that Ter-
tiarv strata extend in a broad continuous belt Iving between the eastern
flank of the Andes and the western frontier of Bn^il, and from the 5th
parallel of north latitude to the 50th degree of south latitude ; and that
alluvium and modem detritus cover the territory of Buenos Ayres, to-
gether with a large portion of the basin of the Amazon.
13. Minerals. — South America has, ever since its discovery, been
celebrated for its mineral wealth, and more especially for the abun-
dance of its precious metals.
It was this that excited the cupidity of the Spaniards, and that lad to
the conquest of Peru in the earlier part of the sixteenth centmy. JBfW
since that period till the recent discoveries of gold in CaUfoniia and Au-
tralia, a great part of the precious metals used in the iraild hkrt ben
brought from America ; and, with the exception of the HexleMi nitns%,
almost all from the southern continent. The chain of the Amine Ir -■-^*^
metalliferous, more especially in the countries of Pern, P**""*** -"*■
while Brazil, on the opposite side of the continent^ yir^'
on the globe in regard to the variety and richness »
cious stones. Oold is found in New Granada, F
BOUTH AMERICA. 573
Cliiie, La Plnla. Silver in Pent Bolivia, Kew Granada, CliilS, and La
Plata. TVn, in Peru, Chile, and Brazil. Lead, in Ecuador and Srazil.
Copper, in Cliil^, Fera, and Brazil, jfarury, in Peru, Ecuador, and
Braal. 7n>B, in Hew Granada, Bolivia, Chile, La Plata, and very abun-
dantly ia Brazil. Antimaity, in BraziL Coat, in Chile, Brazil, and New
Qranada. SitlpAtir, in Brazil, Pern, and Ecuador. Sail, in La Plata,
Brazil, Peru, and Bolivia. Diamimda are very abundant in Brazil, espe-
cially in the provinca Minaa Geraes ; and otker pndoia arena in Brazil,
CUle, Peru, New Granada, and Guiana.
14. Botajiy.— South America is diBtingniahed from the other con-
tinents of the globe bj its pre-eniiiiently varied and luxuriant voge-
tfttion, cauaed by its tropical heat and abundant moisture, as also by
the great number of plants of commercial valne indigenous to it, as
the cassava or mandioc, from which we obtain tapioca; the cinchona,
which yields Pemvian bark | the caoutchouc or india-rubber plant ;
the mai^ or Faraway tea plant ; the cacao or chocolate plant, which
is also a native of Central America ; and the coca-leafplant^ a nar-
cotic naed by the native Indiana of Bolivia and Peru. The continent
embraces no fewer than six of the twenty-five hotanical regions of
modern botanists— viz., the ISth, 17th, ISth, 2Dth, Slst, and 22d
(see p. 6B).
Tlie Erst of these ia the "Maiican region," comprising Meiico, Central
America, Colombia, Gniana, and Peru, and extending to the altitade of
COOfl ft. The natural orders Cactaceee and Piperacem are specially ahan-
dant; bnt other tropical orders are less frequent than in corresponding
h latitudes of the Did World. Among the nnmerous cultivated plants of
■ Ihis region may be mentioned maize, Guinea-corn, cassava, yams, batatas,
Jsrrowroot, plantain, mango, custard-apples, guavi, papaw, pine-apple,
rCashew, tamarind, vine, Indian fig, chocolate, vanilla, capsicum, sugar,
f ooflee, cottou, and tobacco. The neit region, called " Humboldt's
Mgion," or the region of " Medicinal Herbs," embraces the loftier belt of
the Andes, betnceu the altitudes of 5O0O and 9000 tL Here the medi-
cinal barla of commerce, especially Peruvian bark, are very abundant;
the cultivated plants of the lower grounds almost entirely disappear,
with the exception of maize and coffee ; but potatoee, European truits,
and cereals supply their place. Above this is the " region of Etecdloniai
and OiJfai/arui, embracing the highest elevations of the loEt-mentioued
range, up lo 18,000 ft., or the llnut of perennial snow. Here tropical
forms almost wholly vanish, their place being supplied by the Alpine
genera of saxifrages, genUims, mosses, lichens, Ac Tlie fourth, or
^ "Brazilian region, embrace* all South America between the Andes and
he Atlantic, extending southward to the tropic of Capricorn, ThiM is
iTdbalily the portion of the globe in which the vegetable Itingdnm attains
'■ greotert profusion and variety, whether regard bo had to the abun-
-'■genera .inii pppcies, fb« raapnituJe of individual forms, the vast
■.!.,. — :,. ._,1 r,-,.., „-.!.. — .n: climbing and parasitical
■I'- which cover the tnmtis
\f E^maUest branches with
' 'its are the same as in the
At Hilaire'a region," em-
[ wuen the tropic of Capr;.
I " the flora approaches Id
574 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
a remarkable manner to that of Europe, while it differs entirely, except
in Chilly from the floras of the corresponding latitudes of Airica and
Australia. The last botanical region is the ''Patagoniai^" or "Antarc-
tic," embracing Patagonia, the Fuegian Archipelago^ and the Falkland
Isles. The vegetation bears a great resemblance to that of Central
Europe, while tnere is a slight approximation to the floras of Southern
Africa and Australia.
15. Zoology. — This continent forms, with Mexico, Central Ajnerica,
and the West Indies, one of the six zoological kingdoms of modem
naturalists. It embraces two provinces of very unequal dimensions
—viz.. Tropical America, embracing all the countries situated within
the tropics, and Austral America, comprising the remainder of the
continent.
Of the 1967 existing Mammals, there are 518 found in this zoological
kingdom, and of these no fewer than 491 species are peculiar to it. The
QuADBUHANA, 7i in number, are all peculiar, and are distinguished from
those of the Old World bv having prehensile tails, which serve the pur-
pose of a fifth hand. Tne Cabntvoba, of which there are about 188
species, are nearly all peculiar, and are mostly of small size and fearful of
man ; the largest of tnem are the puma and jaguar, the latter being a
very formidable animal; but the whole list of savage quadrupeds, so
common in Africa and India, is entirely unknown in this continent.
Cats, dogs, otters, and skunks are numerous, as also bears, racoons,
coatis, and gluttons ; while bats are more numerous than in any other
part of the world. The Mabsufialia are represented by the single
family of opossums, which contains 28 species, 27 of which are found
here. Of Rodentia there are 95 species in Brazil alone. The capybara,
the largest of the order, inhabits Brazil, Guiana, and Paraguay : the utia
is found in Cuba ; the coypu in Chil^; the chinchilla in C^^ and Peru;
the blscacha in Buenos Ayres and Paraguay ; the li^otis, viscacha, dusky
paca, agouti, acoucha, and cavy, in many places. The Edentata are re-
presented by the sloth, hairy ant-eater, armadillo, all of which are pecu-
liar to this continent, and by the extinct megatherium and mylodon.
The Pachydebmata, once so numerous in this continent, as is evidenced
by their fossil remains, are now represented by only 4 species — ^viz., two
tapirs and two peccaries. Of the 13 species of Ruminants found in this
continent, no fewer than 12 are peculiar to it, the most interesting species
being the guanaco (which in its tame state is named the llama), the amaca,
the taniga, and the vicufia. When the Spaniards invaded Peru and Chile
thev found the llama domesticated and used as a beast of burden ; its
flesh was eaten, its skin prepared into leather, and its wool spun and
woven into cloth. The Ornithology of Tropical America exceeds in
splendour that of any other region of the globe, comprising no fewer than
624 species, or one- tenth of all known biras. It is the chosen metropolis
of the humming-birds, parrots, toucans, and tanagers. Of rapacious birds
the chief is the famous condor of the Andes, one of the most formidable
existing species. Huge serpents and other Reptiles abound in the moist
and annually inundated plains, the total number in the tropical province
being 62. The principal species are the alligator or cayman, ooa-con-
stricter, and rattlesnake, all of which are {)eculiar to America. The seas,
lakes, and rivers abound with Fish of various kinds, which in Brazil and
some of the other countries form one of the most important sources of
wealth. The varieties of the Insect tribes are endless— immense centi-
r
COLOMBIA. 570
ita, termites, IocubIh, TnoBquItoes, aad chigoes,
COLOMBIA.
(U. S. OF Colombia, Ecuador, and Vekezdela.)
Bonndaries.— K., the Caribbean Sea; W., Costa Eica ond
the pBcitic Ocean ; S., Pern and Bnizil ; E,, BiitiBh. Guiana.
Lat 12° 28' N.— 5° 40* S. ; Ion. 60°— 83° W.
ColomtiB wan the name fonnerly given to those countriea in the north-
west angle of South America which, under the dominion of Spain, fonned
tlie Vioeroyaity of Now Orannda, the Captain-geneniioy of the Caracas,
and the ProTince of Quito. They continued in connection with Spain till
1821, when they achieved their ludependauce by the battle of Cuabobo,
■ai] formed tiiaiuselvea into the fiejmblic of Colombia. After a brief
hlsCoiy of 10 yeaiB this state was dismembered, and constituted into
three distinct repiibilts— New Qranada, Ecuador, and Venezuela— which
maintained their inteBrity till 1868, when New Granada was broken up
Into the nine federal republics wldch now constitute the United States of
Colombia. Ecuador, or Equator, wai founded in 1831, wheu the Bepub-
llo nC Colorahitt wae divided into three jwctione. It was formerly divided
into three departmenta (G>usyB({Uli, Quito, and Assuay), but more recently
into 10 provinces. The Republic of Venezuela, cousiating of 13 provinces,
was eatablished at the same time as Ecuador. Since 1847 it has bean the
■cene of continual iiitestinD dissensions. In 1SB3 it became a federal
republic of seven slateii, of which five seceded in 1864, and declared
themtieives indepeodent. We iihall adhere, however, to the former ar-
rangement. Bog[)f!, the cap. of Cundinamarca, and forniorlf of New
Granada, aftuateil near the central parallel, has the same latitude as
Cayenne in French Guiana, Capes Palmaa and Formosa in the Qulf ot
Gidnea, Magadoio in Eastern Afi'ica, and Peuaug In Further India.
Atbb and Fopnlatlon. — The combined area is estimated at 1, 1 60,037
sq. m., and the a^gre^te population at 6,S92,27S. With ten times
tbe area of the iJritUli Isles, Columbia contiuiia only one-aiith of
tbeir population. For the area and population of the dlfTerent states.
Bee the table at p. fiSS.
Political DiTlalottB.— The U. S. of Colombia conBiata of B small
stateB ; Ecuador, of S dejartmenti, or 10 proTinces ; and Venezuela,
of 13 proviucea, recently aubdivlded into 21.
UNITED STATES OF COLOMBIA.
Pahaua.— Pouam^ 18 (C. of Fanami), Aspinwall (Caribbean Sea).
576 POUTIOAL GEOGRAPHY.
Magdalena. — Santa Marta 4 (Caribbean Sea), Mompoz 10 (Mag-
dalena).
CuNDiNAMARCA. — BOGOTA 50 n., Honda 6 (Magdalena).
Cauca. — Popayan 16 (Canca), Pasto 7 (Patia).
BoYACA. — Tunja 7, Socorro 12 n. (Sogamozo, affl, Magdalena).
Antioquia.— Medellln 30 (Canca), Antioqnia 20.
BoLiYAR. — Cartagena 8 (Caribbean Sea).
Santander. — Socorro 20 n. (Sogamozo, aff,, Magdalena).
ToLiMA. — Quamas 7 (Magdalena).
ECUADOR.
Quito.— Quito 76 (Esmeraldas), Riobamba20 (Pastaza).
Guayaquil. — Guayaquil 22 n., Puerto Viejo n. (G. of Guayaquil).
AssuAY. — Cuenja 20 (Paut6, affl, Amazon), Loja 6 (Tapotillo).
VENEZUELA.
Maracaybo. — Maracaybo 22 (G. of Venezuela).
CoRO. — Coro 8 (G. of Venezuela).
Carabobo. — Valencia 29 n., San Carlos 10 (Meta).
Caracas. — Caracas 50 n., La Guayra 6 (coast).
Barcelona. — Barcelona 7 (coast).
CuMANA. — Cumand 9, Cariaco 7 (coast), MaturinlS n. (G.of Paria).
Guiana. — Angostura or Ciudad Bolivar 8 (Orinoco).
Apure.— San Fernando 8, Achaguas 2 n. (Apur^ affl, Orinoco).
Varinas. — ^Varinas 4 n. (Apur^).
Merida. — Merida 10 (Chama, ajji, L. Maracaybo).
Tbuxillo. — Truxillo 4 n. (L. Maracaybo), Guanar^ 4 (Guanai^).
Barquisimeto. — Barquisimeto 26 (Portuguesa, affi, Apur^).
Margarita. — Asuncion (Island Margarita).
Descriptive Notes. — Panama, on the Pacific coast of the isthmus, and
at the southern terminus of the railway to Aspinwall, has an excellent
harbour and a rapidly-increasing trade. Aspinwall, situated in a marsh,
on the island Manzanilla, and at the northern terminus of the railway
which spans the isthmus, is very unhealthy. Santa Marta has a fine
cathedral, and a harbour defended by batteries. Bogota', cap. of the
United States of Colombia, is a large and handsome city, with a univer-
sity and a fine cathedral, and is surrounded by ma^ficent scenery.
Popavan, the first city built by Europeans in this region of America, is
deughtfully situated between two ridges of the Andes, and is a laige,
handsome city. Tunja, at one time cap. of the Indian kingdom of Qui-
dinamarca, situated on the eastern slope of the Andes, is a flourishing
place. Near it was fought, in 1819, the battle of Boyaca, in which the
Spaniards were routed by Bolivar. Cartagena, a strongly-fortified oitf
and seaport, and the chief naval arsenal in the confederation, contains a
magnificent cathedral and several other fine public buildings. Pam^plOUy
cap. of Santander ; near it are mines of gold and silver.
r
EcniDOB, — ftulto (SS-to), cap. of the republic of Ecuador, ia a large
Eity situfltal in a ravinu ou the East side of theTolcano of Pichineha,954a
ft. above the sea. It was nearly destroyed by aD OBrthqaake in 1869,
when 6000 of the inhabitants lost their Uvea. Tliongh sitnated almoat
under the equator, it enjoys b oonliuual apring, owing to its great eleva-
tion and its pronimity to lofty mountains crowned witb perennial snow.
Gnayaqnfl, the principal commercial and aeaport town nt Ecuador, pos-
seaies one of the finest harbonis nn the Pacific. It ia defended by three
forts, but is extreme!; unhealthy. Ciieufa is cbieBy noted for its
cathedral and nniversity. Lqja or Loxa, famous for the cinchona foreatB
inita vicinity, from whith is derived " Peruvian hark. "
Venezhkla.— MarfcMrbo, a fortified seaport, with a college, and an
active trade with the iaterior. Cora, once the cap. of Venezuela, is
»ituated near the G. of Manicaybo, Vulenoift is finely aitnatfld, and has
an actire commerce with Caracas and Pnerto Cabello. CaTa«a«, cap, of
the republic ot Veneiuela, is noted as the birthplace, in 1780, of General
city, and has frec^uBntly suffered from earthqu^es. Xa dntyn, the sea-
port of Caracas. Barceiono, founded in 1S34, eipiorta horses and cattle.
Cnmana, with a magniflcent harbour, is the principal seanort of the
republic, and is the oldest Spanish settlement on this coast.
the chief place of trade in the valley of the Orinoco. Uerida,
richly-adorned cathedral, waa, before its destruction by an earibquai
ISI'2, the largest city in Venezuela, and is again flourishing. Inu
named after the birthplace of Piiarro, in Spain. BarquBsiiieto ia
but a wreck of what it was previous to the great earthquake of 1S12.
— The surface of the three states fomiing
Colombia is highly diversified, having, in the west, the three nearly
parallel ranges of the Andes (embracing CotD;iaiii, Antisana, Picbin-
cha, and Tolima, the moat tretnendous volcanoaa on the esrtli'B mv-
face, with elevationa varying from 18,000 to 19,000 ft., and the hnga
dome- shaped Chimbomzo, 21,124 ft.); in the east ths greatly lower
moQntains of Farim^, the highest aiimmit of which, Maravaca, attains
an elevation of 10,E0O ft. ; and in the centre the magnificent tlatita
of the Orinoco, consisting of in]mense flats, covered with vaat forests
and savannahs (p. fiSS).
Climate and ITstnnkl Products. —The climate in the lower );rouuds
is characterised bj great heat, moisture, and insalubrity: but the
elevated table-landa enjoy a iierpetual spriof;. Hence nearly all the
towns in this redon are situated on the higher grounds. ThcH:
Uy Ecuador and the U. S. of Cnlorabiit, are highly
their mineral and v^table wealth.
I'UiuhI ; but ftom leCBot te-
J in the sixteenth c
578 POLITICAL OEOORAPHY.
quality abounds on the coast ; and inexhaustible supplies of fine rock-salt
occur at Anya. Few mines, however, are wrought anywhere, the re^
■onrcee of the country having been exhausted by the recent civil wars.
The forests afford inexhaustible supplies of timber, dye-woods, cedar,
mahogany, ebony, and other ornamental woods, together with Peruvian
bark, caoutchouc, resins, and other gums. The principal cultivated
plants are cacao, cinnamon, coffee, cotton, indigo, sugar-cane, tobacco,
maize, and other grains ; but the plantain supplies the staple food of the
great majority of the people. Numerous heias of cattle and horses are
reared in the llanos, and their hides form a valuable article of export.
Agriculture is conducted in the most indolent and slovenly manner, as is
usual where the climate is tropical, the soil highly fertile, the land cheap,
the roads bad, the seaports few, and the markets distant. For want of
communication with the seaboard, the vast natural resources of Ecuador
are at present lying waste — ^the Brazilian and Peruvian governments pre-
venting free access to the Amazon ; while the vastlv shorter distance to
the Pacific across the Andes is, in most places, all but impracticable.
For the fauna, see under "South America.
Ethnograpliy. — The whole of Colombia formerly belonged to Spain
(p. 575) ; and the population, as in the other Spanish-Amencan
states, is composed of three different races — Spaniards, Indians, and
Negroes, with their mixed progeny, distinguished into five or six
different classes, which, collectively, outnumber the pure races.
The Wliites or Creoles, though numerically fewer, still maintain a lead-
ing position, owing to tJieir superior education and intellectual endow-
ments. The Indians, who belong for the most part to the Quichua and
Guarani nations, are described as industrious and docile ; they are usually
the miners, agriculturists, herdsmen, and manufacturers of the different
states. The Quichua or Peruvian, once the predominant language of
Peru, still prevails in the plateau of the Andes ; while the Guarani ooea-
pies the eastern half of Venezuela, together with the whole of BraziL
The Negroes are comparatively few in number, and all free — the different
governments having abolished slavery in their respective dominions. In
religion and education the inhabitants resemble those of the mother coun-
try. In regard to literary and intellectual culture, the people of the U.
S. of Colombia rank first among the whites of South America. Manu-
factures are limited to coarse woollen and cotton stuffs, for home con-
sumption; but in no case does the native industry satisfy the home
demand. The great staples of the country are cacao, cotton, tobacco,
sugar, coffee, indigo ; and these articles, with hides. Brazil-wood, Peru-
vian bark, gums, and the precious metals, together with some lace, con-
stitute the chief exports. The larger portion of the foreign trade is carried
on with Great Britain, to which the three states exported, in 1878, goods
to the value of £1,493,166, and from which they imported to the value
of £3,704,217. Internal commerce is greatly impeded for want of roads,
canals, and railways. In 1869 a treaty was concluded between the re-
public of Colombia and the United States of America, giving to the latter
a right to construct a ship-canal across the Isthmus of Darien, with 6 m.
of land on each side, to be under the control of the purchasers, but to be
open to all nations in tune of peace. The short line of railway between
Panama and Aspinwall, 49 m. long, was completed in 1856 it a ooiit of
£1,600,000. Another in Bolivar is 16 m. long.
GUIANA.
Boundaries. — N. and N.E., the Atlantic ; W., Venezuela and
Brazil ; 8., Brazil, from which it is separated by the Sierra
Acarai Mountains. Lat. 1° 43"— 9= ao" n!; Ion. 01° 27'— fil" W.
The Dsme Guiana is applied in ita widest aenee to the vart tract trouaded
in the inturior b; the Amazon, the Bio Masn), &e Datarsl canal of the
CassiquiarS, aud the Orinoco { but by far the greater part of thia area in
now inclndad within the temtoriea of Brazil and VenezUBlo — the Sierra
Acaiai now formiag the southern frontier of colonial Oulaua. Paramiuibo,
cap. of Dutcb Guiana, is nearly on the same parallel of latitade as BogotS,
Polo Penang, and Monrovia ; and ou Ihu same meildiaji oa Newfound-
land, Santarem, and Monte Video.
ATM, Popnlattou, and Political UvIeIoiib. — The area is estimated
at 197,S5S sq. m., being one and a half times greater than that of
tlie British Isles ; while the population is 310,171, or less than that
of Mid-Lothian. It is divided into British Guiana, in the west,
consiating of the three settlements, Betbice, Demerara, and Esae-
qnibo ; Datth Guiana, iu the centre ; nnd French Guiana, in the
eaat, whose respective areaa and population will be found at p. 56S.
Beitisk GniAK a.— George Town 29 (Demerara), New Amsterdam
bridges, kc.
laacriptive ITotes. — Qeorge Town, the cap. of the British colony,
situated near the mouth of the Demerara, and defended by Fort William,
is built of wood, with broad atreeta intersecting at right anglea, sad tra-
versed by canals which are crossed by a multitude of bridges. Foor-
flfthe of the population are people of colour. Paramariba, cap. of Suri.-
nam. cousiderablT resembles George Town in it< wide atreots, canals,
streets are lined with orange, lemon, and tamarind
of eirtensivB trade, Cayenoe, now a penal aottloraent
A offenders, is a, mean-lookhig, wretched place, and extremely
anhcaltliy.
Sniftiea and CUmate. — The maiitime region is low and level, but
Eceedingly fertile, consisting of a rich alluvial soil which extends
ito the interior for about lifty niilea- The country then a»ea in
ten-aces to the Sierras of Facarainjs (TSOD ft.) and Acarai,
the latter of which separates it trrni Brarillan Guiana. These ter-
races traversB the eonntiy from east to west, and have wide volleys
between them, covered with dease forests. The climate is tropical,
but more genial than that of most places in Ilie torrid zone, owing to
the trade-winda from the Atlantic, the sea and land breezes, and the
ent rains. It has two dry and tuo wet seasons on the coast.
continning for three months. The mean temperature of the
it George Ton's ii Sl°. Violmt thiuuletitonna occur at the
IE,
■thel
580 POUTICAL GEOGRAPHY.
change of the seasons, and the annual fall of rain is prodigious,
amounting in some places to 229 inches.
Natural Frodnets. — Guiana is not remarkable for its minerals;
but rock-crystals and red agates are found in the mountains, and a
very fine variety of white clay near Essequibo. The v^^tation is
extremely luxuriant, especially in the lower grounds, extensive dis-
tricts of which are under water during the principal rainy season.
Here the soil is so fertile that thirty crops of rice have been obtained
in succession without manure. The forest- trees are of the most magni-
ficent description, especially the Mira-tree, admirably adapted for
shipbuilding, its wood being equal to that of the teak-tree of the
East Indies, and its height often reaching 150 ft Fruit-tree-s em-
brace the pine-apple, guava, cabbage-tree, and several varieties of
palm, and medicinal plants abound. Amon^ cultivated plants the
sugar-cane holds the highest rank, its cultivation having laigely
superseded the cotton and coffee formerly grown, but tlie latter is
still extensively raised in the uplands. The fauna resembles that of
other parts of tropical America, including jaguars, tapirs, sloths,
monkeys, alligators, parrots, humming-birds, and flamingoes ; rep-
tiles and insects are also very numerous (see p. 574).
Etlinograpliy. — The interior is chiefly inhabited by various tribes
of Indians, who are allied to the now almost extinct aborigines of the
West Indies. The coasts and settled districts are occupied by Euro-
pean settlers, by emancipated negroes who are very numerous, and by
mixed races.
Ouiana was discovered by Vasco Nufiez, a Spaniard, in 1504; the Dutch
took possession of the countrv in 1580 ; the French established a colony
on the Sinnamary river in 1626, and the British on the Surinam in 1688.
The latter were compelled to retire by the Dutch in 1667. In 1796 Great
Britain seized the Dutch possessions, which she restored at the Peace of
Amiens in 1802 ; but what is now known as British Guiana became an
English colony by the Peace of Paris in 1814. In 1831 the three settle-
ments of Demerara, Essequibo, and Berbice were united into one colony.
It is governed by a Governor appointed by the Crown, assisted by a
Colonial Assembly. The total exports in 1873 amounted to £1,839,714,
and the total imports to £1,618,189. Many labourers have of late years
been brought to British Guiana from the East Indies, Madeira, and other
hot countries, for the purpose of assisting in the cultivation of the planta-
tions. The great staple of the various colonies of Guiana are sugar, rum,
molasses, conee, Cayenne pepper and other spices, cotton, and meoidnal
plants, which are exported m considerable quantities. Internal oom-
munication is very detective, the usual mode of travelling being by boats
on the rivers.
BRAZIL.
Boundaries.— E. and N.E., the Atlantic Ocean ; K. Guiana,
Venezuela, and the United States of Colombia ; W^ Ecuador*
J
It thus embraces about 38 degieea Iratli of latitude and longitude ; ibe
greatest length from K to W., along the Sth parallel of 9. latitude, is
S60O m. ; and the greatest breadth, olon^ the Blit raeridisn, 2t4D in.
Such, indeed, is the vast extent of the empire, both in latitude and longi-
tude, that, with the eiceptlon of Chllfe, it comes into contact with erery
other state on the southern continent. The city Bahia, ni'ar the central
parallel, is in the oame latitude as Lima, the cap, of Peru, San Felipe da
Benguela, Mozambique, Capes Londonderry aiid Melville ia Nonhem
Australia.
Area and Population.— The probable area of this gigantic empire
estimated at 3,23i,000 sij. m., or more than twenty-iive times the
_ze of the British Isles, or nearly eqnal to the area of the United
Btatea, including Alaska. In point of size Brazil is the fifth state on
■the surface of the globe, being excelled only bv the British, Kussian,
and Chinese empires, and the United States of America. According
to an oQIdal estimate, made in 1872, the population amounted tn
9,700,187, or little more than twios tha population of Ireland, being
less than four persons to the sij. m.
PolltlaBl DlvlaloiiB. — The empire is divided' into twenty-oi
vinces, which have an aven^ area of nearly one and a third
that of the British Isles, They may be conveniently arranged
lird times
NORTHEBK PROVINt
Para.— Para o
Belon
i (Rio Nagro), Olivenfa (Amazon),
lameta £0 (Tocanlins), Sautarem 5
I
H(iraiiliii&. — Maranhoo 3D (MaranhaQ), Cazias 10 (Itapicuru).
PiaoM. — Oeiraa 5 n., Panuiahyba 10 (Paranahyba).
Ceara. — Araeati 2, San Joa& do Principe IQ (Jaguaribe).
Bio Oranile Oo Norte.— Natal 10 (B. coast).
Parabrba— Parahyba 15 (£. coast).
Eastbhic pBovracBs.
Penuuttbnoo. — B«eife 116, Goyana IS n, (coiisi).
JUaeoaB.— Porto Cslvo E n. (coast), Pciiedo 14 (San Fmncispo).
SergliM. — Sergipe or San Chriatovfili 2 n. (E, cuaat).
BaMa. — Bahia 130, Caxoeira 15 { All Saints' Bny).
Porto BeKDTD.— Porto Seguro 3 (coa«t).
Eapirlta Banto. —Victoria 6 (coast).
Bio do Janeiro.— Sio v% JuNRtito '215, Famti 10 (oonet).
I Bab Paolo.— Siio Paulo 23, Porto Felix 10, Sorocaba IS (Anhernhf).
582 POLITICAL GB06RAPUY.
Santa OatTiarlna. — Desterro 6 (I. Santa Catharina).
Bio Grande do Sul. — Porto Alegre 12 (L. Patos).
Inland Provinces,
Parana. — Curitiba, 12 (Coritiba, affl, Paran^).
Blinas Geraes. — Ouro Preto 9 n., Piranga 15 n. (Doce), Barbaceua
12 n. (Pari).
Goyaz. — Goyaz or Villa Boa 8 (Vermelho, affi, Araguay).
Hatto GrOBSO. — Cuyaba 10 (Cuyaba, affl. Paraguay), Matto Grosso
15 (Guapar^).
Descriptive ITotes.— Hanaos or Barra do Rio Negro, is a small but
ancient town on the Rio Negro, near its confluence with the Amazon,
possessing some manufactures of cordage, cotton cloth, and tiles. Para,
a well-built, handsome town, defended by forts, and exporting india-
rubber, isinglass, rice, drugs, and cotton. Caxnelk, engaged in cultivat-
ing cotton, rice, tobacco, sugar, &c. Maranhao, on an island in the
mouth of tne river of same name, is an important seaport and commercial
town, exporting cotton, rice, sarsaparilla, and rum. ITatal, noted for its
exportation of Brazil-wood. Parsmyba has considerable commerce, and
contains a military arsenal Recife, including Sao Antonio, Boa Vista,
and Olinda, one of the most important seaports in Brazil, and the third
largest in the empire, has a fine narbour defended by a coral-reef, called a
recifcy which serves as a breakwater. Bahia or San Salvador, a great
commercial city and seaport, and, next to the capital, the largest in the
empire, finely situated on a long tongue of land ; was till 1763 the cap.
of the empire ; it has a most imposing appearance, especially as seen from
the sea. Rio de Janeiro, cap. of Brazil, and the largest and most com-
mercial city in South America, lies on tiie western side of a noble bay,
deep enough for vessels of the largest size, and so capacious that all the
navies in the world might ride in it without jostling one another. The
new part of the town is well built, much in the European style, with
houses of granite four or five stories high, and is surrounded with the
most enchanting scenery. Porto Alegre was founded in 1743 by a colony
from the Azores. Curitiba, cap. of new province of Parana, has some
manufactures of coarse woollens. Onro l^eto or Villa Rica, so named
from the rich gold mines found in its vicinity, is the cap. of Minas Geraes,
the richest mining province in the empire, and carries on an active com-
merce with Rio. Cuyaba carries on an active commerce with the metro-
polis in diamonds, gold-dust, hides, and ipecacuanha. The diamond mines
have been worked since 1719.
Surface and Climate. — The surface is about equally divided be-
tween lowlands and uplands, the former consisting of the immense
level plains in the basins of the Amazon and Parand, which occupy
the entire north and west of the empire ; and the latter consisting of
a vast isolated plateau enclosed by the Amazon, Madeira, Paraguay,
and Parand.
Several parallel mountain-ranges traverse this plateau from north to
south, separated from each other by affluents of the Amazon, and by the
San Francisco. The principal ranges, commencing at the east side, are
Sierra do Espinha^, Sierra da Tabatinga, and Cordillera Grande, the
greatest height of which is in the first-named range, where two summits
..is cliaraoterised by great heat and rai . . ., „ .
nowbere bo opprBsafve as in corresponding latitudes of thB African ci
tinent At Maranhao no lesa than 27S inches of rain fall annually, i
the higher gnmnds of the centre and east the temperatore ia consicleral
lower, and the fall of rain greatly less. Here, indeed, extensive tractn
Dccncwhero scarcely any rain falls, while frosty nights are not unconiTnon.
The mean temperature ot the year at Rio ia 7*°. 1 ; the mean winter,
eS'.2 ; and the mean summer, 78°.2 ; but in the valley of the Amaion thr
t«mp. in the hottest season rises to above 10D° Fah. In Braiil, as in al'
other regions south of the equator, the order of the seasons is the revem
of ours— December, January, and February being the hottest months o
the year.
natural Froilactlcins. — Brazil is celebrated for its valuable mine
rala. Next to Peru and Mexico it has, until recently, furuisliedmori
gold than any other country.
"nie gold is obtained from the sands of the rivers, and h specially abnn
dsDt in the bed of the San Francisco. Silver, copper, iron, plstinimi
azes, and beautiful amethysts, are also abundant ; ^vhile the diainoni.
linafl of the inland provinces surpass all others in the world. The rich-
est province in both gold and diamonds is that of Minaa Geracs. An
extensife TOal-fleld, ottheutnjoetiniportanuetothefuturoof the country,
has recently been diacovered in the S.E. of the emph^, in province Santa
Catherina. Tbevegetable products are still more abundant and valuable,
all the tropical plants of the New World being found here in the greatest
Iniuriance. The forests are the most magniScent on the earth's surface,
the lelau of the Amaien alone covering an area ten times larger than that
of the British Isles, and tumisbing every variety of useful and ornamental
timber, ^ms, medicinal plants, and dyewoods. The country, indeed,
reeeived its present name Irom the valuable wood called Biuia, which the
Portuguese fonud on its shores. Cacao and canutchouc are indigenous ;
while maize, wheat, rice, beans, sugar, coffee, cotton, and tobacco, have
Ijeen introduced by EuropeauB. The root of the cassava plant, which is
eitenslvely cultivated, forms the chief food of the humbler classes ; while
maU or Paraguay tea, prepared from the dried leaves of the BrariUao
holly, grows spontaneously, and forms the almost eiclusice drink of tha
Bonthem BrazUiana. Agriculture is still in ite infancy ; there is not mors
than one 150th part of the anrfaoo under cultivation, and this portion is
entirely limited to the coasts, the banks of some of the rivers, and the
mining regions of Mines Geraes and Matto Greaso. The pasturea are ol
^V>st extent, and prodigious herds of wild cattle roam over the pampaj or
tteeleiB plains of the Le, Plata, valuable merely for their hides and horns,
Which are exported in great nnmbers, their flesh being left to the jaguar,
J^mna, and other beasts of prey. The country also sustains an Immense
anmber of domestic animals, principally homed cattle and horses. The
fauna is described under *' South America," p. 574.
Ethnosraplt;. — The population of Brazil is composed of an ogglO'
meration of many racaa. While Brazil remained a Furtugnese colony
but few women emigrated to it ; consequently the EuroneaD aettlen
Urgely intisnnarried with Indian women ; and afterwards an exten-
sire intermixture of race ooou rred witli the Africans, who were intro-
daced into the country as slaves. At present the whites are esd-
584 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
mated at about 1,000,000; the independent Indians at 500,000;
1,400,000 negro slaves ; while free blacks and mixed races make up
the remainder. The importation of slaves is no longer allowed in
Brazil, having been declared illegal in 1854 ; and almough slavery
still exists on a large scale, it is of a less vigorous form than in the
Spanish colonies of Cuba and Porto Rico, while public opinion is
strongly and increasingly opposed to its continuance. The emperor
has set a fine example to his subjects by manumitting his own slaves ;
and one of the best means of becoming popular in the country is for
a slave-owner to liberate one or more of his slaves.
The Brazilians or whites being almost exclusively of Portugese origin,
the Portuguese language is everywhere prevalent ; but the independent
tribes of Indians continue to employ the oialects of their ancestors. These
belong for the most part to the great Guarani branch of the American
family of tongues (p. 515). The Roman Catholic religion, which is pro-
fessed by the great bulk of the population, is the only one recognised by
the state ; but Protestantism enjoys full toleration, save that its churches
must have the appearance of private dwellings. Many of the Indians
have nominally embraced the Roman Catholic faith, but the remainder
continue in the lowest stage of barbarism. Popular education is at a very
low ebb, notwithstanding vigorous efforts on the part of the legislature to
promote it. Primary education is gratuitous, and few of the teachers are
ecclesiastics. There is no university in the country, but a lyceum or
upper-school exists in almost every large town, and an elementary school
in every parish. In 1868 there were only 107,483 pupils attending school.
The morals of the people exhibit a very dark j)icture, while the elements
required to effect a regeneration seem to be entirely wanting.
Goyemment and Finance. — Brazil was accidentally discovered by
Alvarez de Cabral in a.d. 1500, who called it Santa Cruz, and was
first colonised by the Portuguese in 1531. In 1808 King John VI.
of Portugal took up his residence in Brazil, and in 1815 constituted
it a kingdom. In 1822 it declared itself an independent empire,
under Don Pedro, who framed a constitution, vesting the govern-
ment in a senate and chamber of deputies, both of which are elected
either directly or indirectly by every free male possessed of an annual
income of 100 milreis, or £10 sterling. The reigning monarch, Don
Pedro II., is a strictly constitutional sovereign. The army in time
of peace consists of 25,000 men, but during the late war with Paraguay
it amounted to 74, 000. In 1 874, the navy consisted of 60 ships of war,
including 17 ironclads. The revenue in the same year amounted to
£18,510,250, the expenditure to £17,644,000, and the public debt to
£68,398,000.
Mamif«.ctnreB and Commerce. — Manufactures are in their infancy,
being confined chiefly to articles of primaiy necessity. The whites
are cniefly engaged in commerce and trade ; the negroes in mining
and agriculture ; while the artisans are from all classes in the com-
munify.
^ The great wealth of the country arises from its raw produce and exten-
sive trade, for which its long line of coast, spacious harbours, and mag-
nificent rivers, afford singular facilities. About one-half the commerce of
585
I Brazil ia with Great Britain, the remaining half heiug divided between
I' Fnncii, the United titat«3, the Arientiiie Republic, PortugaJ, ajid Prussia,
f ThBtotalralueofthBlniports,inl873, amounted toupwarilBOf£lB.000,000
I cterling ; aud of theezports,toa1)out£22,500,l>01). The principai eiporta
) ooDBiat of coffefl, sugar, cotton, rum, tapioca, tides, boms, tobscco, anil
b dJosiOQds. In 1873, the value of the eiparts to Britain, which maiidy
t oonaisted of raw i»)ttoii and unrefined it^iar, amounted to £7,31^494,
T irbilethe imports from Britain, consistiii^ of Dumofactored cotton, linen
f and woollen ID annfacturea, and wrought iron, amounted to £7.544.000.
L BcazQ DOW poss^eses eix lines of railway of a total length ol 714 m., and
■'five telegtsphlc lines ot837Ei m.
it of North
does not exceed 610,091 sq. m,,
area of tlie Britigli Isles ; while
the latest_cenBU3(1876), amouiited to
P E B TJ.
Eoimdaries.— N., Ecuador ; W., the South Pacific Ocean ;
S., Bolivia ; E^ Bolivia and BraaiL Lat. 3° Stf— 22° 28' S.;
Ion. 67" 45'— aril' W,
The ei:treme length Is 1300 m., and the greaUst breadth aleng the 10th
par. 7S0 m. Lima, the cap„ on the central parnUel, is nearly " '^^
same latitude aa Eahia, San Felipe de Benguela, and the ' -'
Australia.
Area and Population.— Thi
or rather mure than four timi
the population, according
2,700,000, of whom 1,600,
PDlttleal DlviBloaa.— Peru in now diviiled into 19 departmeata
and two littoral provinces, which, with their principal towns, ace
as follows : —
PlciiA.— Piura 12, Tumbez (N.W. coast).
Ahazonah. — Chachapayas 4 (Utenbamha, affl, Amazoo).
LOBETO. — Moyobamba 7 ",, Tarapoto 5 n. (Hnallaga).
LiBEBTAD abdLambatbqob.— Traiillol4,Lanibnyenue8{ooQat).
CajAmarca.— C^amsrca S n. (Amazon).
Anoacbb, — Huaniz S n. (Santa), Hnari 7 (Aniazan].
Jdntn.— Pasco 14 n. (Hualla^^), Tarma 7 (Teiene).
HnANDCo. — Huanuco 10 (Huallaga).
LiHA AND Callao.— Lima 100 n., Callao 38 (coast).
Huancavelica S (Jauja, qfi. Ucayali).
Ayaoooho. — Ayaouoho or Haamanga, 16 n, (Apunmac).
" AKD Apdbimao.— Caico 45 n. (Ueayali), Abancay 20 u.
-loa 8 n., Pisco (coaat).
Aaaaiiii'A. — Arequlpa 40 (Chili).
pDNc— pHno]0(LakeTitiMOQl.
MoQUKGiTA AKn Tacma. — Moquegua B n., Tncna 11 n., Arica S
Tarapaca.— Tarapticn ii. (const),
Ahazonah. — CI
^^t LiBEBTAD A»D .
^^H Cajamarca.— <
^^M Anoacbb, — Hu
^^M Jdntn. — Pasco
^^M HnANDCo. — Hi:
^H Lima and Cali
^^P AYAOtJDBO. — A,
^■^ CUZOU AKS AP
^ (Apurimac),
ICA.— Icafln.,
586 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Descriptive ITotes. — Tnudllo, a seaport on the N.W. coast, founded
in 1535 oy Pizarro, who gave it the name of his native town in Spain.
Cazaxnarca contains the ruins of the ancient palace of Atahualpa, tiie
last emperor of Peru, who was assassinated here by the Spaniards.
Pasco, tne most elevated city in the world, being 13,720 ft. above the
sea, is noted for its rich silver mines, which are more extensively worked
than any other in Peru. Lima, cap. of Peru, is a regular, well-built city
about 10 m. in circumference. Owing to the frequency of earthquakes,
the houses are rarely more than one story high, with flat roofs and un-
glazed windows. It was founded by Pizarro in 1534, and the cathedral,
which is splendidly decorated, contains his remains. Lima was long the
commercial entrep8t for all the west coast of South America, and it still
carries on a large trade through its port, Callao. Lima is the seat of the
oldest university in America. Huancavelica, at an elevation of 11,000
ft. above the sea, is noted for its mines of gold, silver, and especially
mercury. Ayacucho, on the route from Lima to Cuzco, contains a uni-
versity and a splendid cathedral. Near it is the plain of Ayacucho,
where, in 1824, the troops of Bolivar, under General Sucr^, defeated the
Spanish army, and thus terminated the dominion of Spain in South
America. Cuzco, the famous cap. of the empire of the Incas, and the
most ancient of -their cities, was, according to tradition, foimded a.d.
1043 by Manco Capac, the founder of the ancient Peruvian civilisation.
In 1534 it was taken by Pizarro, who felt greatly surprised at its magni-
ficence. The streets were wide and imposing, tne palaces superb in the
extreme, and the temples richly adorned with ornaments of gold and
silver. Areqtiipa is a large well-built town, possessing a considerable
trade and numerous manufactures of gold and silver stuns. Arica is the
principal seaport of southern Peru, and of Bolivia, which possesses no
good seaport within its own limits. Tacna is the depot of European
nierchandise for the greater part of Bolivia. Pnno, on the N.W. snore
of Lake Titicaca, at an elevation of 12,847 ft., is, next to Pasco and
;^ Potosi, the highest town in the world : the numerous mines in its vicinity
are now mostly abandoned. Pinra or San Mig^nel de Pinra, foimded by
*^ Pizarro, was the first Spanish colony established in Peru. Callao, 6 m.
from Lima, of which it is the port, is a strongly-fortified town, possess-
ing the best roadstead on the Peruvian coast.
SurfiEice and Climate. — Peru is traversed throughout its entire
length hy the lofty chain of the Andes, running from N.W. to S.E.,
and forming two grand ridges, which divides tne country into three
widely-different physical regions — viz., the Coast, the Central, and
the Eastern Regions.
The Western or Coast Region, which is rarely more than 60 m. wide,
consists of an arid, rainless, and barren district, covered with sand, and
intersected by chains of hillocks that cross it from E. to W. In some
parts of this district no rain has fallen in the memory of man ; but
above the level of 400 ft., slight showers occasionally occur. The absence
of rain, however, is in some measure compensated for by the garua, a
peculiar fog which supplies a little moisture to the soil. The Central
Ke^on consists of a lofty plateau of about 12,000 ft. of average elevation,
which, though difficult of access from the coast, contains numerous cities,
towns, and villages, owin^ to the coolness and humidity of the climate.
The Eastern Region consists of immense plains, traversed by the head-
waters of the Amazon, and covered with gigantic forests which extend up
IT
PERU.
587
I
..._ in-BlcIei to npwanls of 6500 ft. The cUmata here is very
humid, the crests of the Andes intercepting the equaWrial winds, which
come iBden with muiature from the diatant Atlantic. The temperature
jes in satnmer between S0° and S4°, but during the preraleace
of the garua it is reduced to 62°. (For the elerationof theAudeaof Peru,
le gania i-
?. §70.)
natural Fr[>ductlODi.^ — Peru was formerly more celebrated for It!
mineral wealth than any other country ot Sontli America. Tbo
sQver mines of Cerro Fasco, and the qnicksilver mines of Huanca-
velica, are amongst the richest in the woriiL Gold also occors in
limitfld quantities in Cuzco, and in the varioua silver mines.
Nearly all the mines of the precious metals are situated in the elevated
T^iona of the Andes, above the line to which cultivation extenda—a cir-
cnmehince which renileis the working of them Terr di9lct\lt and eipen-
siva. The number of mines that have been worked is above a thoneand,
bnt most of tham are now exhausted, or &om other causes abandoned.
Besides the precious metals, the country yields ircm, copper, tin, coal,
sulphur, saltpetre, and rock-salt. The flora and fauna are deacribed in
the general article on " South America." The best guano is obtained
from the Chincba Islands, S. of Lima, and from the Lobos Islands, 3. of
Payta. Pei-uvian guano is now extensively exported to this country for
manure, and is worth about £13 per ton. The guano was known to the
Bboriginea of Pern, and used by them in manuring the land, before the
arriTol of the Spmiards. The llama, alpaca, guanaco, and vicuUa, are
natives of the country. The llama has been used as a benst of burden
from its egge.
EUmography.— Kearly three -fourths of the entire population of
Peru consist of aboriginal Indiana ; about one-fourth are Creoles and
mestizaes ; and the remainder negroes, who number about 40,000.
The great bulk of the Indian population belong to the Quichna or
Peruvian nation, who are for the moat part confined to the ^at plateau,
many of the smaller towns of which are eicluaively inhabited by them,
wbilH the eastern plains are almost exclusively occupied by independent
and neuaUy heathen tribes. Quichna waa the predominant language of
thie conntry under the Incas, and is still spoken by nearly a million and
a half of people. It is said to be as copious and artificial as the Greek,
bnt as yet no portion of the Scriptures has been printed in it. The re-
found in Peru, sufHciently attest that, when the country fell a prey to
Pizarro and his sanguinary companions, the inhabitants had made con-
siderable progress in civilisation. Under the infinence of the Spaniards,
the character of the natives has greatly deteriorated ; agriculture and
pastoral employments form now their favourite nceupation ; while not a
few are engaged inmlningand other mechanical Diierations. The Creoles,
or whites, sre tall, slender, and feeble, and are characterised by levity,
fickleness, and incapacity of mental toil. By the terma of the oonstitii-
tion of 1SS7i there exists absolute political freedom In Peru, slavery
„ abolished ; but the same charter prohibits the public eierciae oi
any other religion than the Roman Catholfo, which Is declared the reli-
Eion of the state. Edncalion is lamentably deficient, and that of the
bnver orders is wholly neglected-
588 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
GoYenunent and Finance. — The form of goyemment is republican
— the constitution closely resembling that of the United States.
The legislature consists of a Senate of 36 members and a Chamber of
Deputies, in the proportion of one deputy to 20,000 inhabitants, and
two senators to each province. The executive power is vested in a
president popularly chosen for a period of five years, who is assisted
by a ministry chosen by himself. The army, in 1874, consisted of
18,200 men ; and the navy of 12 vessels, carrying 106 guns ; the
revenue amounted to 5,960,000, the expenditure to £6,751,000,
and the public debt to £89,000,000.
Commerce and ManufactnreB. — The internal commerce is much
impeded by want of good roads, but a considerable amount of trade
is carried on with Brazil by way of the Huallaga. The maritime
trade is chiefly with the ports on the Pacific coast, but that with
Europe is considerable — the exports thither consisting of bullion,
Peruvian bark, chinchilla-skins, cochineal, cotton, copper ore, alpaca
wool, and especially guano.
The exports do not exceed £6,000,000 annually, of which the govem-
meut monopoly of guano yiel(^ a fall half. Peru sent to Great Britain,
in 1869, to the value of £4,500,000, more than a half of which consisted
of guano, the other items being alpaca wool and nitre. We sent in return
goods to the value of £1,830,000, the principal articles being cotton and
woollen manufactures. The produce of the silver mines has fallen off
very materially since the end of last century, when it amounted to
5,500,000 dels, per year, while in 1855 it only amounted to 3,000,000
dols. Thus the far-famed riches of Peru are now like the legends of the
past. The manufactures are not important, consisting chieny of coarse
cotton and woollen cloths made by the Indians, leather cloaks, and
jewellery. A system of railways, designed to develop the mineral wealth
of the country, has been in course of construction for several years.
There is one line completed from Lima to Callao ; another, from Tacua
to Arica : total m. completed in 1875, about 1000.
BOLIVIA.
Boundaxies. — ^E. and N., Brazil ; W., Peru and the Pacific ;
S., Chil6 and the Argentine Confederation. Lat. 10° 30' —
23° S.; Ion. 57°— 70° 40' W.
The extreme length from N. to S. is about 870 m.; the greatest breadth
about 700 m. Chuquisaca, the cap., near the centre, is nearly on the
same parallel as Victoria in Brazil, L. Ngami and Sofala in Africa ; and on
same meridian as Point Gasp^ in Canada, St Thomas in the West Indies,
and Barcelona in Venezuela.
Area and Population. — The area is estimated at 374,480 sq. m.,
or three times the area of the British Isles ; but no regular survey of
the country has ever been made. According to the latest official
estimato, taken in 1866, the iKip lat
I
ofS tknd
,t d t 1 S7 3S2,
being two-thirds the popnlatiai
Political DlvfiiOM,— The republ p ntly n t f nine
departmonta, all of which are named aft tli sp t pitala,
exi:ept in the case of the two dcpartm nt B n and At m
B cur. —Trinidad i, Exaltacion (Mamorf, tub.-affl. Madeira).
Li Paz.— La Paz 76 n. [L. Titicacia).
Santa Ckuz.- SantaCruz 10 n. (Mamot^.
CocHABAUBA.— Cochabamba 41 n. (Mainort), Tapacarl (Mamorf).
Chuqiiisaca. — CaoqniSAOA or Scosil 2* n. (Piloomayo, afi.
Pan^uay),
Potosi.— Potosi 23 n. (Pilcomnjo).
OacKO, — Oruro 8 (Desaguadero).
Ataoama. — Cobija 3 (Pacilie), Atacama (Loa).
TiBlJA.— Tarija 6 (Tarija, a£l. Vermejo}.
DeacrtptlTa Hotes.— Tiinidud, cap, of the departmeDt Beni cr llojoa,
contains 4000 iubabitanta. La Paz, near tli« eastern sham of L. Titicoca,
and near the base of the snow-capped mountain Jlliniani, is the com-
rita-growing at
lai^ cathedral and a magnificent palace. Chnqnlsaoa or Snne i" plate
of gold"), cap. of Bolivia, on the eastern side of the Andes, and at an
elevation of S343 feet above the eea, has a university and a fine cathedral,
bat faBE neittier trade nor manufactures, and owes all its prospority to its
being the seat of the legislature. Potosi, at the foot of the far-famed
silver mountain of Cerro de Potosi, at an elevation of 13,330 ft above the
sea. The mountain ia perforated in all direetions by the mines, only 28
of which are now worked, while 1800 are standing idle. The silver here
■was aecidentaUy discovered by an Indian, upwards of 300 jeara ago.
Oruro, another miulng town, where 11 silrer mines are still worked.
Cotrija. the only seaport of Bolivia ; merchants prefer it to Arica, where
thay have to pay a high duty to the Peruvian Government.
Bnr&cs and dlmata. — The centre and west are covered with
, latnificatioiis of the Andes, which here, as in Pern, divide into two
L eordilleras, enclosing an elevated plateau in whi(di ia the Lake of
[ Titicaca, 12,857 ft, above the sea (p. E71). The narrow region be-
tween the Pacific and the Andes is barren, jiearly rainless, and
Itnown aa the desert of Atacama. The region east of the Andes con-
aista of ininienae plains watered hy tjie head-streams of the Amazon
and Parana, which have their origin in the eastern cordillera, and is
covered with immenae forests. The towns are for the most part situ-
ated in the plateaa ref^ou, many parts of which are fertile and well
1 cultivated. The climate resembles that of Peru, but varies much in
different parti of tlie coantry, according to the elevation aud the dis'
590 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
tance from the equator. On the plateau it is cold, and in some places
even rigorous, while in the low-lyin^ plain of the east it is insup-
portably hot, humid, and pestilential.
Natural Productions. — Bolivia is now the most important mining
country in South America, but many of the mines have become ex-
hausted or filled with water, and comparatively few of them are now
worked with advantage, a result mainly owing to their distance fi*om
the coast and the want of roads.
The precious metals are found chiefly in Silurian strata, where these
approach the igneous rocks. Gold-dust occurs in many of the streams
that flow down the sides of the eastern cordillera of the Andes. The
silver mines of Potosi are, next to those of Pasco, the most valuable in
the world, but being worked at an elevation of upwards of 10,000
feet, the expense is enormous. Copper is everywhere abundant, while
iron, tin, lead, antimony, nitre, and sulphur, are found in the department
Oruro, south-east of Lake Titicaca. The tin mines in this department are
among the richest in the world ; and rock-salt, in large veins, occurs in
the Cerro de Potosi. The botany of Bolivia is as various as its climate,
which ranges from tropical heat to perpetual winter. Forests of bound-
less extent cover the eastern plains, and the lower zones of the Cordil-
leras. These yield timber fit for every purpose, fruits of every variety,
ornamental and dye woods, Peruvian bark, and many other valuable
drugs. Paraguay tea abounds in the department Beni ; and coca, a plant
which the aborigines masticate as the Malays do tie betel-nut, and with-
out which they pine and die, grows spontaneously in the hot plains of
the interior. Cultivated plants embrace cacao, vanilla, caoutchouc, cot-
ton, tobacco, indigo, rice, barley, oats, maize, sugar-cane, and potatoes.
The wild animals include the tapir, jaguar, leopaiS, monkey, amphibious
reptiles, birds, and fishes in great numbers.
Ethnography. — About one-third of the population are whites, of
Spanish origin, who are most numerous in the mining districts and
in the valleys of the eastern cordilleras. The remainder are Indians,
of the Aymara and Quichua nations ; of negroes and mulattoes, who
are chiefly fugitives from Bi*azil; and of Cnoloes, who have sprung
from the union of the European with the Indian population.
The Aymara Indians were among the nations formerly subject to the
Incas of Peru, and now dwell on the plateau of Titicaca, within the limits
of that ancient empire. They number about 372,000, and are probably
descended from the same stock as the Quichua Indians, whom they re-
semble in language, disposition, manners, and customs. They are an
intelligent, industrious race, and ai^e largely engaged in agriculture, min-
ing, various branches of manufacture, and in pastoral occupations. A
small number of them have been gained to Christianity by tne eflbrts of
Roman Catholic missionaries. Bolivia, under the name of Upper Peru,
formed part of the viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres, till, on the subversion of
Spanish authority, it achieved, with Peru proper, its independence. Soon
afterwards it separated from the latter country, and became an inde-
pendent republic, assuming the name Bolivia, in honour of its illustrious
liberator. General Bolivar, who in 1826 drew up its first constitution.
Oovemment, Commerce, and Finance.— The executive govern-
ment is vested in a president, who is elected for a term of four years :
CHILE. 591
the legislative fuuc^tians ate ejieruiBeJ I>y a bndy consisting of two
chambera— B aanate and a house of teprB$ciiCatives, botli elected by
nniveraal Bnflrnj^. The oonstitntion makes ample provision for per-
Bonal and political liberty — aecuring religions taUrstion, the freedom
of tha press, and the independence of the tribunals-
Raman Catlioliclsm is alone professed liy the white inhabitants, but the
Church ia not endowed by the State. Tha atnndine avmy ainonnts to 3000
men ; the receipts and expenditure to nearly £500,000 nach. Cominerce
in greatly restricted by the phyeical character of the country— atupend
-.^^ sect separating the productive portion
the coontry from the Paoilic, and 2000 m. of river nnvigntion ' — '
Atlantic, seaboard. Tlie republic has but one seaport, the toi
tbe
MJa, BUd the greater part of il
Tha foreign trade is consequently very limited, coufiisluig chiefly in tliu
oiport of the precious metals, Peruvian bark, skins, soap, tobacco, ami
alpaca wool to Europe, and of grain and cacao to Peru; while the imports
ore mostly confined to iron, hardware, silk, and a few other articles. The
total exports, in 1875, amounted to £1,340,000, the imports to £1,288,000,
BDd the public debt to £3,200,000. Till within the last few yeara tlie
■pricultural and mineral resources of the conntry lay dormant, nearly all
I tte internal trade being carried onbypttck-horaeaand mules; but recently
U good roads bave been constructed by English capitalists and engineers,
■ and concosaions have been granted for a line of railway between Cobija
fAai Potosi, which is lo lie nuited to the Peruyian railway from Arcquipa
o Pono. This line is about 400 m. long, hut is not yet commenced.
Bonndaries.— N., Bolivia ; W., the South Paciflo Ocean
'Patogooia; E., La Plata, or thu Argentine Confederation,
—' --1" 2(V S.; Ion. 68°— 74° W.
Lat.
ChOS, however, claims the whole of Patagonia and Tierra del Fnego,
L bat the claim is diaputed by the Argentioe Confederation. Inclndmg
'■CbilOo, the lengtli is UOO m. ; while the breadth, between the crest of
the Andes and the Pacific, does not on an average eiceed 100 m. Few
other countries of equal dimensions enjoy so large an eitent of seaboani.
Santiago de ChilJ, the cip. of the republic, situated near the centre, ia
nearly on the same parallel as Bnenos Ayres, Cape Town, Sydney, and
the northern Bitremity of New Zealand ; and nearly on "■ ^"~
a« San Domingo, in the W. Indiea, and Lake Titicaca.
Area and Population. — The area is estimated at 116,043 sq. i
rather iiwi than the British Isles ; the population, ticcordinK t(
censns of 1875, amonnted to 2,n'i8,447, beinj
population of Scotland.
592 POLITICAL OEOGRAPHT.
Atacaua.— Copiapo ll,Caldera (N.W. coast).
CoQUiMBO. — Coquimbo, or La Serena 12, Huasco (coast).
Aconcagua.— San Felipe 9, Quillota 11 (Aconcagua).
Yalparaiso. — Valparaiso 98 (coast).
Santiago. — Santiago db Chile 148 n. (Maypu),
CoLCHAGTJA. — San Fernando (Rapel).
CuRioo. — Curico 9 (Mataquito).
Talca.— Talca 18 (Manle).
Mauls and Linares. — La Gonstitncion 6, Linares 6 n. (Manle).
NuBLE.— Chilian 19 (Itata).
CoNCEPCiON.— Concepcion 18 (coast).
Abauco. — Arauco 1 (coast).
Valdivia. — Valdivia 5 (coast).
Chiloe.— San Carlos 2, Castro 4 (island Chiloe).
Llanquihub.— Puerto Montt 16 (coast).
MAGELLAN.—Punta Arenas (str. of Magellan).
Notes on Towns.— Copiapo, the most northern town in Chil^, and in
the centre of the principal mining district, exports various mineral pro-
ducts. Caldera, a seaport town, 40 m. north of Copiapo, with which it
is now connected by a railway, which, in some places, is carried to a
height of 6000 ft. above the level of the sea. Coquimbo, one of the chief
seaport towns of the rej^ublic, has extensive copper-smelting works. San
Feupe has valuable mines of copper in its vicinity. Valparaiso, the
commercial metropolis of Chil€, on the Pacific coast, a large and flourish-
ing city, and one of the principal seats of trade on the whole west coast of
America. Its harbour is defended by several foi-ts. Its markets are
well supplied with European manufactures, and it exports wheat to
Callao and Panama, with large quantities of bides, tallow, gold, silver,
copper, indigo, wool, and drugs. Santiago de Chile, cap. of the Chilian
republic, contains a university : here, on Dec. 8, 1863, in the Church of
La Comp&nia, occurred the most terrific conflagration ever witnessed in
South America, when 2100 females perished in the flames. The town
is situated amid the sublimest scenery, near the foot of the Andes. It
is handsomely laid out, but owing to the prevalence of earthquakes, the
houses have only one storey. Santiago is connected with Valparaiso by
a railway 111 m. long. Concepcion contains a college, and possesses an
excellent roadstead. Valdivia, the penal settlement of Chil6 and Peru.
Puerto Montt, cap. of the new province Llanquihue, established in 1853,
is named after Don Manuel Montt, the president of the Chilian republic
when the town was founded.
Surfiace and Climate. ~Chil^ consists of a long, narrow territory,
isolated from the rest of the continent by the majestic chain of the
Andes, which here form a single ridge, with an average elevation of
12,000 ft.
Near the centre of the chain stands the stupendous Aconcagua, the
giant of the Chilian Andes, 23,301 ft. above the sea, and with the excep-
tion of Sorata, in Bolivia, by far the loftiest mountain in the New World.
Aconcagua is not a volcano, but no fewer than 14 volcanic peaks are
enumerated among lie Chilian Andes, among the loftiest of which are
Chilian and VillanuB, each of which attains to a height of 16,000 ft. Five
of these volcanoes srenowiti a state of activity ; whQe eaithquahes are of
common occurrence, and frequently cause tremendous devaatation. The
northern portion of the country is rainless and barren, hut the central
pnrtion is luinriantly fertile, and. has a delicious climate, the heat being
tempered ^ JtB greater eleyation and by the n — ' " ""
breeies. Here the rainy Beoson occurs between
■verage anmmer temperature on the plains is :
winter being from 40 to 50°. The months of Jannary and February are
the hottest in the year, the thermometer then freyuently rising to 95°
Fah. in the shade. In the central parts of the country storms of hall.
thunder, and IJ
n thew
I
its of the Chilian Andes throughout the year, the lower
limit of the snow-line being, in the N., 17,000 ft., and in the S. 830O ft
Batund ProductloiLB.— Chile is by far the most flourishing of the
Spanish American republics — the salubrity of her climate, the fer-
tility of her soil, the abundance of her uahiral resources, and, above
all, the great extent of her sea-coast, giving her a decided superior'
ity over the other coimtriea on the western aide of the continent.
Her mineral resources are especially great, embracing gold, silver,
copper, lead, iron, zinc, mercury, antimony, manganese, arsenic, tin,
sulphur, nitre, salt, coal, and lignite. The extraction and exportation of
copper has of late years rapidly increased, and this coDimodity now
forma the grand staple of the country. The ailrer mines occur in the
])ighest part of the Andes, which also contain precious stones, as the
iffiile, jasper, rook-crystal, &c. The working of the coal-mines is grailu-
ally eitsndlng, and though the cool la inferior in healing power to ordi-
nary English coal, it is extensively used for steam and smelting purposes.
The north is almost wholly barren, but maize, wheat, barley, and other
Euroiieau grains are grown eitensivety in the centre and south. Here
vegetation is very abundant; agriculture is well understood, and the im-
plements of husbandry are of the best deacriptioiL ChilS is the native
region of the potuto, which Is found wild on the elopes of the mountains,
as also of the Araucaria imbricato, now so common In our shrubberies.
Froita are so numerous and abundant that in many places they may be
had without money ; the figs and olives ore of the best quality, and the
grape is cultivated with success. Among the animals of prey the chief
place must be assigned to the puma or American lion, and to we condor,
a munificent species of vulture peculiar to the Andes, but most common
in Peru and Chil€. (See under '■ Argentine Confederation. ")
EUmogtapby. — lu the northern and central provinces the popula-
tion consists for the most part of the descendants of the Spamards ;
hut to the south of the Biobio the country is inhabited almost ex-
clusively bj Indians, who belong tu the Araucaniaii nation, and
number about 70,000 persons.
'lliough nominally subject to the Chihan sway, the Indians have hither-
to stoutly maintained their independence— a privilege wliich they are
likely soon to lose, now that the Chileflos have formed Llauquihue into a
riT — .., 1 i, _:_;t;,.^-,^ ([j^^ (Jjj wandering
a the
land ; bnt they ai
of
594 POUTICAL GEOGRAPHY.
dieted to habits of intemperance. The whites, or Chilefios, are de-
scribed as contrasting favourably with those of the same race in other
parts of Spanish America, especially in activity and industry. The ad-
vance of civilisation among them is rapid, and more has been done by the
Gk)vemment in diffusing the benefits of education than in any of the
neighbouring republics. There are a university and a lyceum at Santiago,
and schools and seminaries in several other places. The religion of me
state is the Roman Catliolic, and the public exercise of any other form of
worship is excluded by law. Yet there are in Valparaiso two Protestant
places of worship, whose existence is not unknown to the Government.
The great mass oi the people remain in the grossest ignorance, and moral-
ity is at a very low ebb. Illegitimacy is fewrfully prevalent among the
humbler classes of society. In some parts of the country, from 27 to 30
per cent of the population are said to nave a stain on their birth. Closely
connected with tnis is the extraordinary rate of moitality among the
young.
Oovemment, Army and Navy. — The struggle of the colonists for
independence began in 1810, and terminated successfully in 1818, by
the battle of Maypu and the formation of a republic. According to
the constitution of 1833, the government is vested in a president
elected for five years, a senate of 20 members who hold office for nine
years, and a chamber of deputies chosen for a period of three years,
consisting of one member for every 20,000 inhabitants. The array
in 1869 amounted to 3750 men, but during the war with Spain, in
1866, it numbered 6300, together with 29,698 militia. The navy
consists of twelve steam-vessels, manned by 400 men, and carrjing
about 30 guns. The Chilian navy incurred great losses during the
late struggle with Spain. The Revenue for 1874 amount^ to
£3,614,000, the Expenditure to £8,822,000, and the Public Debt to
£9,629,000.
Crommerce and Mannfactnres. — The foreign commerce of the
Chilian republic is considerable, and is mainly carried on with Great
Britain, to which nearly three- fourths of the exports are sent. These
consist chiefly of copper and silver ore, wheat, flour, hides, and
tallow. Total exports in 1874, £7,308,384, of which £4,452,000
were sent to the United Kingdom. The exports of that year also
included for the first time a considerable quantity of raw cotton.
The principal imports consist of cotton and woollen manufactures
and hardware from England ; silks from France ; and linen from
Germany : total amount, in 1874, £7,683,899, of which £3,450,695
came from Great Britain. The commercial navy, in 1874, consisted
of 259 vessels, of 67,111 tons burden. As compared with the other
South American republics, Chil6 has made rapid progress in almost
every department of natural industry. Her manufactures consist of
earthen and copper wares, cordage, linens, soap, brandy, and other
articles of home consumption.
Internal Communication. — Chil^ was among the first states in
South America that engaged in the construction of railways. In
1876 there were 615 ra. open for traffic, and a good many more in
course of construction. The principal lines already completed are
K
^m
THE iRGENTIKB OOKFEDEKATIOK, OB LA PLATA. 595
Hut from Valpsmiao to Santiago ; from Santiago to Taka, ; from
Sun Antonio to Calderai aud frum TalcoJiuanD to Chilian Curico.
Fata^nla and Tiarra del Fnego. — Thia extensive coontry, coniprisliig
the entire BOiilhern extreniity of South America, ia bonndtJ on tie N. by
la Plata and Chilfi ; on the W, by tlifl Pacific ; on the R br tho Antarctic
Ocean ; and on the E. by the Atlantic. Eitending from Int. 38° to 5"°
65" S,, it iaabont 1100 ra.lonB,hT 550 m, wide at its broadest part. The
una. ie roughly estimBtcd at 400,000 sq. m., and the popnlatioit nt 30,0O(i.
The northern aitremity is nearly on tlie samfl parallel aa Cajie Egmont iii
Mew Zealand, Cape WilBon in AnfltraUa, and ia 2tlO m. S. of Cape Agalhns,
the Boutheiii extremity of A&ica. The whole of Patagonia, north of
TlBira del Fnego, is now claimed as a colonial poasesaion of Chilfi, which
luu given it the name of the Temtoriol Colony of Magellan |p. S91). I'be
wcatem ahors ia deeply indented by the ocean, and lined ny nnmeroua
inlunds and bold projecting headlands. The Andes extend in one Immense
unbroken chain along the woatem aide, having an elevation ranging &oni
8000 fL in the north, to leaa than 3000 fi. in the eoiith, aud containing
Bumerons volcanio peaka. Their anmniit! are covered with perennial
HDow, whence glaciera descend almoattb'ths seashore. The mountainnns
region is densely clothed with forests, the cliitiata being excesaively moiEit,
. owing to the prevalence of westerly winila. The eastern part of ths oouu-
tr\', on tbe other hand, ia arid and sterile, the snrface consisting of a series
ol' temcBS interspersed with lakes awl moraaaes. Wheat, maii^e, and
pulae, are raised in small quantities in the north. Large llocltB of wild
cattle and horses roam over the conntry, hot the gnanaco is the charae-
twistic quadruped. The Fatagooian Indiaos, described by the early
voyagers as a race ot giants, are a tall muscular race, generally averaging
aliont six feet In height, leading a nomadic life, and subsisting by the
produce ot the chaee and by fiahing. The shorbieaa of their limba, and
the disproportionate length of the upper port of the body, make them
I appear remarkably tall on horseback, as they almost always are when ont
id doois ; but the natives of the mountain region, and of the Fuegiau
Archipelago, are a stant«d race, anuk in the deepest degradation.
■ the argentine confederation, OB LA PLATA,
Boundaries.— K, Bolivia; W., OhiU; S., Patagcnia; S.E.,
the Atlantic; E., Umpiay, Brazil, and Paraguay. Lat, 21° —
41' S, ; Ion. 54"— 70° W.
The extreme length from north to south ia 1350 ni., and the average
liiHwlth about 700 m. Buonoa Ayrea, the federal cap, (lat. 34° 39'), ia in
I tiie aome latitude as Santiago de Chil£, the Cape of Good Hope, and
peydney; and in the same longitude as Cape Breton, George Town in
I nrtish Oalana, Asnnclun in Patagnay, and the Falkland Isles,
Area and Fopnlatton, — The area is estimated at Sa6,800s(|, tn.,
br more than seven tiniea the area of the British Isica ; vrbiU tlie
nopnlation. in 1B69, amounted to 1,840,000, or lesa thao two penona
% each aq. m.
596 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Political DlvlsloxiB. — The Confederation embraces fourteen inde-
pendent states, which are under the authority of a military governor,
called the Director of the Argentine Confederation.
Buenos Ayres. — Buenos Ayres 178 (Rio Plata), Rosario 80
(Parana).
Entre Rios. — Parand 6 (Paran&).
Santa Fe.— Santa F^ 10 (Salado, affl, Paranfi).
Corrientes. — Corrientes 11 (Parang), La Cruz (Uruguay).
JuJUY. — Jujuy 3 n. (Vermejo, affl. Parang).
Salta.— Salta 12 (Salado).
TucuMAN. — Tucuman 17 n. (Medanos, affl. Dulce).
Catamarca. — Catamarca 6 n. (Medanos).
Santiago del Estero. — Santiago 8 (Dulce).
RioJA. — Rioja 4 n. (Bermejo, affl^ Lake Guanacache).
Cordova. — Cordova 29 {affl Lake Salado).
San Juan. — San Juan de la Frontera8 (Patos, affl. L. Guanacache).
Mendoza. — Mendoza 8 (Lake Mendoza).
San Luis. — San Luis 4 (on a river which loses itself in the sand).
Descriptive ITotes. — Buenos Ayres, so called on account of its salub-
rity, cap. of state of same name, and now again of the Argentine Con-
federation, is a large, handsome city, situatea on the south side of the
estuary of La Plata, 150 m. from its mouth : it is the chief port of the
Confederation, and one of the principal commercial cities in South
America. It is noted for its jerked lieef : the saladeros or slaughter-
houses here are on a very large scale. Hosario, on the right bank of tlie
Parang 190 m. above Buenos Ayres, is the eastern terminus of the Chilian
railway across the Andes, now completed as far as Mendosa, a distance of
747 m. Parand, cap. of state of same name, and formerly of the Argen-
tine Confederation, is an active bustling town. Corrientes is admirably
situated for becoming the emporium of an extensive district of country.
Salta is noted for its trade in hides and mules. Tucuman, cap. of the
finest and richest state in the Confederation, with the exception of Buenos
Ayres. Here, in 1816, the lirst congress of deputies from the several pro-
vinces of the Confederation proclaimed their independence. Cordova, on
the main road from Buenos Ayres to Potosi, on the line of the inter-
national railway across the Andes, has some manufactures ci cloth and a
trade in wine. It was at one time the ecclesiastical metropolis of the
Confederation. Here, in March 1871, was held a grand International
Exhibition. Mendoza, on the eastern slope of the Andes, is a main en-
trepdt for the trade between Buenos Ayres and Child.
Surface and Climate. — Excepting the portion of the country form*
ing the eastern slope of the Andes, drained by the Salado, Colorado*
and Rio N^o, and a detached ridge of high ground between the
Parang and Uruguay, nearly the whole surface of the Confederation
is embraced within the basin of the Paran&, and forms two immense
plains of only a few feet in elevation above the sea.
The southern plain, named the PoMpat, is a dead level, destitute of
trees, but covered with luxuriant pasturage, and interspersed with a mul-
»
IHE ABGENTINE CONFEDERATION, OB LA PLATA. 59T
... le of salt lakes, some of ivliich (as Guanacache and Bevederu) ais of
biga aize. The chEumel of tlie Paranli, at a distauce of 401) lu. from its
month, is raid to be oaly one foot in elevation above the sea. The nor-
tliem part of the connt^ belongs to the plain of Grait CTuto, or great
desert, which extends ftom the 2Sth to the 16th south parallel, andtroni
lonritude 58° to 63° W. The northern portion is covered with tall grasa
tuuf tfaistlea, while the soathein, consisting of an arid and desert plain, is
inhabited by roving Indians. The eUmats is cliatactoriaed bj great
diveraitj, but is in general hot and very dr>-— the Andes on the one side
■nd the monutains of Bnuil on the other. Intercepting the rain-beariug
winds bom the two great oeeann ; but in tbe eitsteni pampas rain is
■bnndant. The mean annual t*mp. at Buenoa Ayraa is 82"Fah., Bum-
mec 72", and winter 62°. The high plateaai oitiblt every variety of
climate, but in general the heat is not escessive, and the climate is more
fialubriouH than that of other countries equally near the tropics.
Hatural ProCtuotlonB.— The miueral resoarees of the Can federation
are scarcely inferior to those of the other South American republics,
^ongh, owing to the want of good natural outlets, and other means
of transport, they have remained hitherto of little commercial im-
Ootd mines, said to be of great richness, are being worked by the Anslo-
Ai^Butine Company; while silver, copper, lead, coal, alum, and sulphur
OEcar in various loooUtiea, and salt ufflorescea in large quantities on the
■ucface of the plains in the salinasof the west. Except in the neighbour-
hood of the towns but little of the soil is cultivated, the remainder being
given up to the vest herds of horses and cattle which roam in an almost
wild state. Wheat, maize, barley, and other grains, and numerous fruits,
ore grown in the southern states ; and in some of the northern, tobacco,
sugar, cotton, indigo, rice, and other tropical productions, are cultivated.
The cocoa-tree, Paraguay tea, cochineal-cactus, and the aloe are largely
cultivated, as also the vine in the western provinces. Most of the Soulii
American wild animals are found in La Piata, as the puma, jaguar, arma-
dillo, tapir, tajassOD, biscocho (a kind of rabbit which is very numerous,
the skins of which are now brought to England for furs), deer, and some
kinds of monkeys. The guanaco is found m the plains and on the mouu-
tains, but the wild llamas, vicujlas, and alpacas, only in the cold regiooq
on the elevated table-lands. The watflr-hog or earpincho, the largest
known rodent, is very common on the banks of the Parana. The moat
common birds are the emu, condor, green parrot, wild-duck, pigeon,
quail, the carrion- vulture, and several other rapacions birds.
EUmosrapUy.— The whitaa are mora numerous in the Argentine
Kepublie than in any other state in South America. The bulk of tlie
population are of Spanish descent, and are named Creoles. Of other
European nations the Italians are by far the most numerous, amount-
inic in liuenos Ayres atone to 70,(tOO; British, who are chieSy eO'
gaged in sheep-Farming, number 32,0(11} ; while there are about the
■ame number of Spaniards and French. The Indiana number about
40,000, and nru cbieUy located in the Gran Chaco and on the Rio
Ifegro. The Creoles do not lead the same indolent and voluptuous
life a* in the neighbouring Spanish republics, but busy tbeniseivos
\Sa pastoral and ogricnltural operations. The Koman Catholio is
'~^most ejcduaivelj lUe religion of the nhite population, as in all tliu
598 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Spanisli American republics ; but other denominations are tolerated.
Primary schools of a very inefficient character exist in some of the
towns, but are unknown in the rural districts, and the education of
the people is sadly neglected.
Government and Finance. — The estuary of the Rio de la Plata
was discovered by Juan Diaz de Solis in 1514, the knowledge of
which was further extended by Sebastian Cabot in 1527. The coun-
try was settled by the Spaniards in 1553, under whom it was erected
into a viceroyalty. In 1 811 it joined the insurrection against Spain,
and in 1816 became independent. In 1835, De Rosas was elected to
the dictatorship of Buenos Ayres, which he exercised with almost
absolute rule till he was defeated by Urquiza, the governor of Entre
Rios. The present constitution bears date from 1853, and provides
that the executive power of the Confederation shall be vested in a
president, and the legislative po?ver in a national congress consist-
ing of 78 deputies. Each of the provinces has a governor of its own,
and retains the management of its own internal affairs. The army,
in 1875, consisted of 10,700 men, besides the national guard of Buenos
Ayres, which numbers 19,867 men. The navy comprises 28 small
steamers, including 2 ironclads. The Revenue in the same year
amounted to £4,860,000 ; the Expenditure to £4,000,000; and the
Public Debt to £16,000,000.
Commerce and MannfiBOtareB. — The wealth of the country consists
mainly of its animal productions — wool alone constituting about one-
half of the exports, and the remainder consisting of hides, tallow,
jerked beef, horns, horse-hair, and ostrich-feathers. In 1873, the
total value of the exports amounted to £6,600,000, of which £2, 604, 000
were sent to the United Elingdom, and the remainder to North Ger-
many, France, and the United States. The imports consist chiefly
of manufactured cotton and woollen goods, machinery, coal, and
iron. In 1873, the total imports amounted to £11,600,000, of which
Great Britain sent £3,729,221. The manufactures are unimportant,
with the exception of coarse woollen stuffs, turned articles, and^
morocco leather at Cordova. A network of railways has been in
progress for several years, and in 1875 there were 1000 m. open for
traffic. Among the principal lines may be mentioned that fh)m
Rosario to Cordova, 247 m. ; and that from Villa Nueva to Mendoza,
400 m. In the same year there were 8000 m. of telegraph lines in
operation. A good deal of internal traffic is carried on between the
different provinces, the roads being good, and the rivers affording
boundless scope for internal communication.
PAEAGUAY AND URUGUAY.
Boundaiies. — Paraguay is bounded on the NJB. by Biazil,
N.W. by Bolivia, and on the other sides by La Plata, from
^^mi
PAKAGDAY AKD DBCBDAY. 699
which it is separated by the Puxanli. Paraguay, and Pilpomayo.
I Lat. 21° — 27° Sff S. Urngnay, or Eanda Oriental, has
[ Brazil on the N. and E. j the Argentine Confederation on the
" ; the Eio de la Plata on the S. ; end the Atlantic Ocean on
L the SJl Lat. 30°— 34° 53' S. ; Ion. 63° 30'— 58° 23' W.
Aaoncinn, the cap. of the fonner state, is in the aame latitude as C.
[ , Corrientee, in East Africa, and the rentre of Australia; while Monto
k Video, the cap. of the latter, is nearly an the same imruUel as Buenos
r Ap«s, Santiago de Chil^, Capa of Good Hope, and Sydney.
Ares and Fopnlallon. — The area of Faragnay is vny uncertain, as
the bouitJaiies have not heen settled ; bnt it is usually estimated nt
76,000 sq. ro., or five-sixtlia that of Great Btitaiu ; while Bands
Oiiental has an area of fiS.SOO eq, m., or somewhat less than Para-
gnay. The population of the former state, in 1B74, or immediately
I after the war with Biiiail, was estimated at 103,000, including Indians;
I- while that o£ the latter, in 1873, was 450,000, or only ono-tliird that
I' of Wales.
Political DlTiitonB — The first -mentioned republic is suhdivided
into -25, and the other into 13 departments. The towns are ftw in
[ number, and are chiefly as foliowa ; —
Pabaguat. — .^Buncion 8, Villa Hioa, n., Concepcion B (Paniguay).
UnnGUAY. — Monte Video 126, Maldonado 2, San Jos^, Colonia 3
(Itio de la Plata), Faysandu (Uruguay).
SescriptlTe Kotea.— Aanndon or Assnmptin], at the confluence of Uie
Faragnay and Pilcomayo, possesses considerable trade in tobacco, sugar,
hides, timber, and espeaially yerba or taragnay t«a. Concepcian, tlie
depot to which the Paraguay tea is brought trom the forests on its way
" ■ Monte Video, so named from a mounlain OTeriookinR it
Gousiderable trade.
SnitltM and. OUmate,— The stuTacB of FaraKuay is hilty on the
Brazihan frontier, where the Sieirvi Amambahy forms the walar-
parting hetweea the Farani and Paraguay, flat in the centre, and
marshy in the S.W. ; while the dimate, tboQgh tropical, is greatly
modified by the inequaKdes of the surface. The mean temp, of
Asuncion is S5° Fah., with an occasional rise to 100°. Urn^iay is
level along the coast, and destitute of wood, hut the interioi' is full
of ravines and heights clothed with tbrests, and abounding vrith wUd
animals. The cllinate, tllough damp, ia generally temperate and
healthy ; io winter, cold winds and heavy rains are prevalent, but
ice is unknown, except on the higber elevations.
Hatnnl ProdnotlonB.— These are, in eenvral, the same as in the
Argentine Confederation, to which, in&ed, both countries phyu-
600 POLITICAL GEOGKAPHY.
cally belong. The pi*ecioas metals and other minerals common to
the other countries of South America have not, as yet, been found
in Paraguay ; but, in 1864, valuable mines of gold, silver, copper,
lead, and sulphur have been discovered in Uruguay, in the depart-
ment Minas. In the forests of Paraguay are found at least 60 vaiie-
ties of timber, including the caoutchouc or india-rubber tree and
many dye-woods. Many of the hills are literally covered with yerba
or Paraguay tea, which is largely exported to most parts of South
America, and which is no contemptible substitute for the tea of
China. At every meal, and at every hour of the day, it is drunk.
Hot water is poured on the powdered leaf, then a lump of burned
sugar, and sometimes a few drops of lemon-juice, are added, and the
inSision is drunk off quickly. Cattle, horses, and sheep form the
principal wealth of the population in Uruguay, their produce, con-
sisting of wool, hides, horns, jerked beef, ana tallow, forming the
main articles of export. Jerked or Monte Video beef is now largely
exported to Britain, and sold at less than one-half the price of ordi-
nary meat. In 1868, the exports of Paraguay amounted to £520,000,
and of Uruguay to £2,679,273.
Ethnography. — In Paraguay the great bulk of the population con-
sists of Indians of the Guarani nation, who here approach nearer the
whites than any other of the aboriginal tribes of America. Spain
took possession of Paraguay in 1536, but in 1811 it recovered its
independence. From 1814 to 1840 it was ruled by Dr Francia,
under whose despotic sway all foreigners were excluded. Its inde-
pendence as a separate state was recognised by the Argentine Con-
federation in 1852. In 1862 Don Francisco Lopez succeeded his
father as Dictator. In 1865 he quarrelled with the three neighbour-
ing states— Brazil, La Plata, and Uruguay. After a desperate
struggle of seven years, during which he manifested extraordinary
courage and military skill, he was defeated and killed in the battle of
Aqui Daban, March 1870, a full half of the male inhabitants of Para-
guay having already perished. The country now enjoys peace, but
is practically ruined. Urugpay, formerly a province of Brazil, de-
cUu^ its independence in 1825, and was recognised as a free state by
the treaty of Monte Video in 1828. Civil war and misrule have
since seriously impeded its prosperity, while more recently the
country has had to contend unceasin^y against the intrigues and
hostility of Buenos Ayres. A colony of Protestant Vaudois has re-
cently been establish^ in the countay, from whose superior culture
and activity much good may be augured. In the suppression of the
revolution in Paraguay in 1874, the Brazilian troops took an active
part, and Brazil has thus assumed a virtual protectorate over it.
Blver-System of Soutli America.— The rivers of South America
belong to four great basins— \'iz., those of the Pacific, Atlantic,
Caribbean Sea, and the continental basin of I^e Titicaca.
fahaguay and ukuguay.
601
Lcuiins inclinmp to the CarlMtean Sea.
Toicwt.
Moin])oz. Honda, Bo-
gota, n
. Aktioquia, Medel-
li5, popatax.
. BocoRBO, n , TrKJA.
Chagres, A<>pniwnll,
Caktageka, Bta.
Marta.
G. of Vonezntila,..liarac>ayl»o, Coro.
Jiirent.
Uttgdaieiia, . . .
CaucA, I ...
Bngomnzn, .
Cariitbeau B<a, ..<
lliveip Toicns»
L. MaracayVio, Troxillci. c.
Ziilia, Faufloka, il
Cliama, Merida.
Co. Venezuela, ... Pnerto Cabello. "Va-
lencia, n. , La Gur. V-
nu Cakacar. BaV-
oelona, Cumniuu
Cariaco.
Orinoco.. . .
A]mr6, 1.
Bcutiwi iiiclininfi to tlie J tlantie.
.AngoBtnra. ,K Co. Brazil, ....Natal, Parahylia, Re-
Portugnesa. I
Guannre,
Co. GniauB,
Ban Fernando, Atdia-
gnas, Variiiafi, u.
BarqniHimeto.
Gnanarg.
Groroe Town, Para-
maribo. Cayekke
Amazon..
Madeira,. . .
Guapar^,
Maiuore,.
Rife, Goyana, u.,
Porto CalTo, Ser-
Ban FranciRco, . . . Penedo.
All HuintK' Bay. . . Bahia, Caxncira, n
E. Co. Begun), . . . Porto Bcpuro.
Olivenga, Coxaniarea, j Done, Ouro Prelo, n., Pir-
Guamaubuco, u. , j anga. u.
HuarL , S. £. Co. Brazil, . . Victoria. Bio d e .1 a-
Balaazno. i keiro, Parati.
Matto Gn)RR0. ' Lake PatoR, Porto-Alopre.
Exaltacion, Trinidad, Parana Hnldonado, Moktf
Rio Negro. I .
L'PByali
A]iuriiua(t, I.
.lan.ia, I. . .
Huullapt,
PaRtaz;t. I ....
l*autc. I
TiicantiuR,
Araguay. I...
VermellM*, .
Maranhao,
Itapicura.
Pamnahyba, . . .
Jaguarilie,
Video, Buenob Av-
HKB, Colonia, Rih
sario, P a i: a k a,
&AKTA Fe, Cf»Ri:i-
EKTEB.
Uruguay, I Paysandu.
Quarto, Bak Lris.
Balado, Bakta Fe, Balta.
Paraguay, Corrienteb, Abuk-
ciOK, Concepcion.
Vermesjo Jujuy, n.
Tarlja, /...Tarija.
Pilconiayo, . . Abdkciok, Ch tqui-
BACA. PotoBi, n.
Cnyabli, 2 Cuyal>a, n.
Curitiba, I Cnritiba, n.
Anliemby, 8. Panlo, P. Felix.
Par4y Barbacena, u.
Ktr. of Magellan,
Cu. Chile,
Maule
Il.'ijiel
Maypu
Co. Bolivia, . . ,
Lake Titicacn,.
Bta. Cruz, n. , Cocha-
bamlKL
. .Monnofi or Barra.
.Cuzco, n.
.Ayacucho, Aliaiicoy.
. Huancaveliea.
.Moyobaniba. n., Taru-
pnto, n., IIuanuc4i,j
PaHc,(». n. j
.RiolMinilia.
. Cuenga.
.Paril, Canieta.
. .Ko towns.
.Goyaz or Villa Boa.
. . Maranhao.
.Caxias.
, . Paraualiy>>n, OeiraR.n.
,.Aracati,'Ban Joa5 do
Princii)e. '
Battint inclining to th€ Pacific.
.Ptnta Arekas. ' Loa, Atacamn.
. Valdivia, Aranca, | Co. Pern, Arica. Islay, Piaco,
Concepcion, Valpa- Tacna, n., Moque-
raiao, Cuqnimbo, gna.
Huaaco, Caldera, Quilca, Arequipa.
Copiapo. { Rimac Callao, Lima.
.Cauquenes, Talca. I N.W. Co. Peru, ..Hnaari, TruxiUo,
.Chilian. i Lambayeqtie, Fl-
.Ban Fumando. I ura, Fayta.
.Baktiaqo de Chile, G. orGna7aqnll,..Tumbez, Guayaquil.
n. I fianieraldAH, Quira
Cobijo. Patia, Fasto.
' O. of Panama Favaxa.
Bonn t\f Ctmtin&!HUU Streams.
Lb Paz. PmiD, Chn- 1 DcMgmdero Omro.
quitu. I
2 g
602 POLITICAL OEOGRAPUT.
OCEANIA.
Oceania is the name given by modern geographers to a sixth
division of the globe, comprising all the islands and archipela-
gos in the Pacific Ocean from the Bonin Islands, S. of Japan
(lat. 27° 40' N.), to Macquarie Island, S.W. of New Zealand
(lat. 54° 50' S.), and from Sumatra Qon. 95' 25' E.) to Easter
Island, about 2000 m. off the coast of Chil^ (Ion. 110 W.)
It thus embraces 82*" of latitude and 160" of longitude. Its extreme
length, from Achen Head in Sumatra to the meridian which passes
through Cape San Lucas in Old California, is upwards of 11,000 m.;
while the breadth, from north to south, is more than half that distance.
The aggregate area and population are extremely uncertain, as many of
the islands have been but recently discovered, while all of them are as
yet very imperfectly explored. Probably, however, the former does not
fall short of 4,500,000 sq. m., or one-fifth larger than the continent of
Europe ; while the latter is generally estimated at about 30,000,000, or
less tnan the population of Great Britain at the last census.
Divisions. — Oceania is now usually divided into four ^eat sections,
which are tolerably well defined, not. only by geographical position,
but also by various physical characteristics ; for example, tneir geo-
logical formation, their botanical character, and the animals and races
of man which inhabit them. These large divisions are — 1. Austral-
asia or Melanesia, in the south-west, embracing the continent of
Australia, Papua, New Zealand, and numerous smaller islands con-
tiguous to them ; 2. Malaysia, also called the Eastern or Indian
Archipelago, in the north-west, embracing the numerous islands and
archipelagos that extend from the north-western shores of Australia
and New Guinea to Further India and China; 3. Micronesia, for-
merly reckoned a part of Polynesia, in the north-east, and consisting
of the numerous small islands lyin^ north of the equator and east of
the Malay Archipelago ; 4. Polynesia, or the South Sea Islands, com-
prising the numerous archipelagos in the South Pacific Ocean east of
Australasia. (See Johnston's Map of Oceania in his ' School Atlas of
General Geography.*)
L AUSTRALASIA.
The first of the above-named divisions, termed Australasia
from its southern position in relation to Asia, and Melanesia
from the dark complexion of its inhabitants, lies about midway
between Africa and South America, having Malaysia on the
N.W., the Indian Ocean on the W. and S., and the South Pacific
Ocean on the K and N.E. It extends from the equator to lat,
54'' 50' S., and from Ion. 113° to 180° E. The total area is sup-
posed to amount to about 3,428,000 sq. m.~that is, to the area
of Europe without the islands ; and the population to about
2,600,000.
OCliAM
603
This area enibrauts the coutiiieat of Australia, 1
man'i Idnd, New Zealuid, Aucklaad Isles, Antipodes lalsj
IbIbs, Norfolk Islaud, New CaledoDia, New Hebrides, QueL
Isles, Salomon Isles, the Louisiade Archipelago, New Britain, New Ire-
laad, Adiniralt; lalea, Papua or New Guinea, Arroo Isles, and Timor-
• . ..„-.....■. . .1 .t -■--—---- -J i) oiiiraoterised by »
I precouderatics
J. — ._^,^ p^
laut ■' Viewed as a whole, this exteiiidve regioa it characterise
Tery spare population, by a paucity of rivers, by a great prepom
of sandy deserts, and by the siugularity of Its animal and vegetab
iii»
I
many iiistances, no parallt
FiiL- ^L^_j^:.|gg consist of three
_., _. ... are probably Tiir-
•aisra (p. eil) ; S. The Papuans, in New Guinea, New Britain, New Ira-
land, Salomon Islands, Now Hebrides, the Loaisiade Archipelago, and
How Caledonia, forming, in the opinion of many, a distinct variety of the
Jjuman race, whose numerous dialects have Utile affinity with any other
language ; and, 3, The Maories, in New Zealand, a Malay o-Folynesian race.
ADSTEALIA.
Oftogxapliieal F(»ltlciti.~Au3ti'a1ia, the mnaHest of the mx conti-
neots, has Papua and Malaysia on the N., From which it is separated
by Torres Strait and the Timor Sea ; the Indian Ocean and Baas
Strait (the latter separating it from Taamania) on the W. and 3.;
and the Pacifio Ocean on theK Lat. 10° 40'— 39° ll'S.; Ion. 113°--
163° IT E.
Inform, it is of an irregidar onion shape, having its greatest extansion
troa K to W., in wliich direction it measures about ^00 m., while it3
Bitreme hreadtli from N. to S. does not esceed 1980 m. Sydney, tlie
cap. of New South Wales (lat. 33° S4' S.), is neariy on the same parallel
as Cape Town, Santiago de Child, and Buenos Ayres,
Area, Fopnliitton, uid PollUoal SlTlBlons, — The area is esti-
mated at 2,963,325 sq. m., or ahont five-sixths of the area of
Europe, and the population in 1879 at 2,079,619' (including 60,000
aborigines). The entire continent is a possession of Great Britain,
which, daring the last ninety-two years, has established five highly
prosperous calonies on its eastern and southern shores, viz.: —
o„.™.
a™ in Eng.
sniiare miles.
P.ipnlntlop
T«rwben
IfBwaonth Wales, . .
SouOi Ans'tralia, '.
Wert AustralU, . .
323,«7
88,198
903,890
978,000
670,000
712,019
887,«*
262,000
28.166
200,000
178B
1851
1834
1820
1859
I New South Wales.— Sydney 200, Paramatta 6 (Port Jackson),
k Gonlbum 5 n, (Hawkesbnry), Newca^ttle 8, Maitknd 8 (Hunter),
I Bathurat 6 (Macquaiie), Grafton 7 (Clarence), Alburj' 3 (Murray).
60-i POLITICAL GEOGRArHY. ,
Victoria. — Melbourne 200 n., Sandridge 8, WiUiamstown 8,
Geelong 23 (Port Philip), Belfast 3, Portland 3 (Portland Bay),
Sandhurst 26, Castlemaine 8 (Loddon), Ballarat 47 (Nurriwillan),
South Australia. — Adelaide 50 n., Port Adelaide 3, Glenelg
2 n. (G. of St Vincent), Kooringa 2 (Burra Creek), Wallaroo 2,
Moonta 5, Kadina 4 n. (Spencer Gulf), Palmerston (N. coast). ,
West Australia. — Perth 6, Freemantle 5 (Swan River), Gerald-
ton 1, Bunbury (W. coast), Albany 2 (King George's Sound).
Queensland. — Brisbane 32 (Brisbane), Ipswich 8 (Bremer), Too-
woomba 5 n. (Condamine), Maryborough 8, Gympie 6 (Mary), Rock-
hampton 8 (Fitzroy), Cooktown 8 (Endeavour).
Notes on Towns. — Sydney, on the southern shore of the magnificent
harbour of Port Jackson, is a large, elegant, commercial city, containing
numerous public buildings. Sydney was founded in 1788 as a penal settle-
ment, the inlet of Port Jackson being better adapted for that purpose
than Botany Bay, to which the convicts had been transported. At the
uigent request of the Australian colonists, the penal settlement has been
abolished. The commerce and importance of the city have greatly in-
creased since the discovery of gold at Bathurst in 1851. The Botanic
Garden, the finest in Australia, occupies thirty-eight acres of ground, and
contains an immense collection of exotic plants from all countries. Para-
matta, next to Sydney the oldest town in the colony, is noted for its
orchards and vineries. Ooulbnrn, 134 m. from Sydney, is an import-
ant town on the Great Soutliem Railway, and an episcopal city. New-
castle, at the mouth of the Hunter, and the principal shipping port north
of Sydney, which it nearly equals in the extent of its tonnage, is chiefly
not^ for its valuable coal-mines, which give employment to a large
number of workmen. Upwards of 1000 tons of coal are exported daily.
Uaitland, equal in size to Newcastle, and in an extremely fertile district
termed the "Granary of New South Wales." Here the grape is widely
cultivated, the other crops being maize, wheat, barley, oats, and potatoes.
Coal of an excellent quality is found in the neighbourhood. Bathurst,
the principal town in the recently-discovered gold region. Uelboume,
cap. of Victoria, on the Yarra Yarra, three miles from its mouth in Port
Philip, is the great emporium for ail foreign goods intended for the colony.
Since the discovery of the gold-diggings its commerce has been enormously
developed. The exports in 1878 were valued at £14,925,000,-' about
£3,895,190 of which represented gold. Sandridge, now the port of Mel-
bourne, is situated on Hobson's Bay, about three miles from the cap.,
with which it is connected by a railway. WiUiamstown, the former port
of Melbourne, situated on Hobson's Bay, opposite Sandridge, and eight
miles from the cap., has a patent slip, graving-docks, and all conveniences
for repairing vessels. Ooelong, the most important town in Victoria next
to Melbourne, which it surpasses in the convenience of its situation and
the salubrity of its climate. It is the chief port for the wool of the colony.
Sandhurst, a mining town in the Bendigo district, and a place of great
trade, with a railway to the capital. It is the headquarters of a rich
auriferous countij. Castlemaine, a place of great importance in the early
days of the gold-fields, has for some time past been retrograding, the yield
of gold having greatly declined. Ballarat, the second most important
OCEANIA. 605
.,._._ .... ,, t position to its Wng the centre of
perhaps the richest goM-yieldinf! district in the world. The precbua
iiiL'tal waa disuoTcred h«re in ISfil- Adelaide, cap. of South Australiu,
on the Toirens, and about eight miles from Fort Adelaide, its seaporli,
is a thriving couiiiiercial town, husily engi^ed in the exportation of wool
»iid copper. Pertli, on the Swan River, twelve railaa above its moutli, is
tlie eap. of Westem Australia, but otherwise a ploue of little importance.
rraemantU, at the mouth of the Swan River, is the port of Perth, aui
was. till 1B6S, a convict station. Brisbane, cap. of Queensland, a colony
established in 13d9, and uovr attracting nuiuerons eniigiants, ie a rapidly
iiicreaaidg town. Ipewieli.thB seiaind town in the colonj', twenty-flia
miles west of Brisbane, which it rivals in the extent of ita commerce.
Kwdibampton, on the FiUtroy, 420 m. north of Brisbane, may be regarded
£S the can. of nnithem Queensland. It is the port of shipment for the pro-
duce of the Peak Downs copper and gold mines. loowoomba, the prin-
cipal town of the Darling Downs Dlstriet, 102 m. W. of Brieljane, ex-
lioita wool, wheat, maize, and wine. Karyborougli, on the Mary, 25
ni, from its month, is the iwrt of shipment for roost of the produce of
the Burnett District, of the gold from Gympie, and copper from Mt.
Perry. Gympie, 54 m. 8. of Marj'borough, with valuable gold-mines,
■which liave already yielded nearly £2,000,000 of gold. CooWdwh,
1050 m. N.W. of Brisbane, is one ol the most important seaporta of the
colony. PalnerBioii, on the coast of North Australia Iwhicli was au-
neifldto the oolony of South Australia in ISrtS), and on tlie Arafura Sea,
baa a splendid bai bour, suitable to vessels of the largest tonnage, with a
comparatively healthy eliinate. guod snil, and plenty of water and grass ;
l)ut the only prai^ticable communication with Adelaidcj its mother city.
is by aea, a journey of several thousands of miles.
Sni&oe and Hountftlni. — Australia ia the smalUst and least known
of all the continents, with the exception of the south clrcnm-palar.
Jt ia also, with the eame eiceptiuii, the only one lying entirely in
the UDUtbcm hemiapfaeve. It lios S.E. of the great eontiuent of the
Old World, in the Bauie way that South America Kes S.E. of the
, great coutinout of the New ; bat while the latter is joined to the
northern coutinent by a long contiauoua isthmus, the former is more
loosely connected with Asia by a double row of immense islands.
Like both the other southern continents, Australia terminates in n
point at the south, to the east of which Ue large islands ; but New
Zealand is niorc distant from Australia than Madagascar ia froui
Afiica, or the Falkland Islaniia from South America. It' is essenttnllf
a, level continent, aud of very moderate elevation, conaiBling of an
extensive low.lyinf; interior, encircled hj a border of more eieyatei!
lind traversed hy chaina of mountains which rarely rise more than
firjoo fL above saa-Ievel. Another peculiarity of this continent ia,
that along its north-eaateni coxst, at a distncm of from 20 to 60 ni.
from the shore, is a broad wall of ooral reef, some 1200 m. long, from
a few hundred yards to a mile in width, and id depth reaching from
the bed of the ocean to the surface. Between this reef and the coast
ships can safely narigate, while the wave« of the Pacific break against
. the outer side in long lines of white foam. The principal monntiuii-
I rmt^ lios along the eastuvu shore, M a dutance varying from CO le
Its BV011UCO clovBtiou is about iStlQ ft., its loftiest summits
606 POLITICAL GEOGRAPnY.
'being in the Australian Alps, between New Sonth "Wales and Vic-
toria, where Mount EoscinsKo rises to an elevation of 7308 ft., and
Hotham and Latrobe in the same range to nearly an equal altitude.
All the loftier summits of this range are covered with snow in winter
and spring. Farther north are the Blue Mountains, in the same lat.
as Sydney, reaching a height of 3600 ft., and the Liverpool Range,
4000 ft. On the frontier of Queensland is Mount Lindesay, which
has an altitude of 5700 ft, but beyond this, to the northward, the
mountains rarely exceed 5000 ft. in height, and decrease to less than
1000 ft as they approach Cape York. Proceeding westwards, the
shores of the Gulf of Cai'pentaria are low and flat, and interspersed
with clumps of gum -trees. Amhem Land, as the great north-cen-
tral peninsula is called, is a plateau of from 2000 to 8000 ft. in ele-
vation. The more northerly part of the N.W. coast is bold, with
granitic and basaltic headlands ; but here the interior remains wholly
unknown. A chain of low hills lines the coast of the whole of West-
em Australia, generally at a distance from the sea of about 250 m.,
some of the summits attaining an elevation of about 3500 ft Near
the S. W. angle of the continent the Darling and Roe ranges approach
much nearer to the ocean, and rarely exceed 1500 ft in height.
Proceeding eastward along the southern coast of the continent, the
country is an arid desert. The entire coast of the great Australian
Bight, extending from Cape Arid to Cape Catastrophe, is bold and
lofty, rising from 300 to 600 ft. above the sea. Here no rivers enter
the ocean, and the interior consists of cheerless desert The Gawlor
Range, in South Australia, does not exceed 2000 ft. in elevation ;
but the Flindei*s Range, between Lakes Torrens and Frome, and run-
ning north and south, ascends to a height of about 3000 ft. Lastly,
we enter the colony of Victoria, where we meet the Grampians, at-
taining, in Mount William, an elevation of 6600 ft, the Pyrenees,
and the Australian Alps.
Though much of the interior remains unexplored, the continent has
now been traversed in almost all directions. The greatest feat in recent
Australian discovery was performed by M'Douall Stuart in 1862 ; starting
from Adelaide, he travelled across the continent, emerging at Port Dar-
win in the extreme north. Ten years later, and along this route, the
great Overland Telegraph, connecting the Australian colonies with Eng-
land, has been conslructed, and the exploration of the interior has there-
by been greatly facilitated. Thus Col. Warburton in 1873, leaving the
Overland Telegraph near lat. 21% and proceeding N.W. and W., reached
Nickol Bay in Western Australia. In 1874, Mr Forrest achieved a still
greater feat, by starting from Champion Bay on the W. coast, and
travelling eastward nearly along the par. of 26° till he reached Peake
station, on the great telegraph line. '*It may be reasonably assumed
that the whole interior region west of the 140th degree of east longitude
and north of the 30th degree of south latitude is of the most unpromising
kind—that it is without rivers and without mountains — and that it forms
an inhospitable and dreary desert similar to that traversed by Stuart,
Sturt, Burke, Wills, and Forrest— and that beyond the desirability of
simply determining the fact, there is little to tempt or repay an explorer
in the desolate region included within the limits now mentioned. Pop*
OCEASEA. 607
tUrahle tmcts— of a more attractive chir-
i cosBt, and estendinc to a few niilea InlBod
ra aliorea ; but in all probability these irill
lurrounding u wiilttspreail Sahara." *
lame relative positinii in the sontbern hctnl-
' Africa does lii the DOtthem— the tropic ot
. . . itre of the one, and that of Capricorn thxongb
This interior deaert has been supposed hy Borne
date ; aQd a great district of lakea in the
lutthis coujacture. Lake ETra^ the largest
npy lake of variable eitent, and with ealt-
ibove the Bea-level hai been found tu be
only 70 ft, and its area ia estimated at HOD sq. m., or nearly three times
that of Oreat Salt Lake in Utah ; while Lake Torreus, which ia perhaps
at a leas heigiit above the sea, ia not properly a lake, but an extensive
depression, with CTeat shallow ealt pools aurronndcd by Bandhilla r'
with bouWers. Though only BepBiated i— "- '
liles in breadth from tlie head of Spenci
tions — possibly indeed consi
acter may be found along th(
■long the northern and waste
constitute but a mere fringe e
This region occnpiea the e
aiihtre BS the great Sahara ol
Cancer posses through tlie een
the centra of the othi ™
to be the bed of a sea of recen
south of it would seem to bear
of these, ia a great shallow awa
encriisted shores. Its height
s of twelve
n Weatem
, and none of the lakes in this region, i
Australia, have any oiittetf
Capes uid PenliiBnlaB. — Citpe Yorh in Queensland, tbe most
northern point of the coutinent ; Poiut Dale and Cobnrg Peninanla,
in North Australia ; Capes Londonderry aud Leveque, on the N.W.
coast i Steep Point, the weBtem extremity of the contiaent ; Cape
Leeuwin, the S.W. extremity; Cajtc Spencer, in South Australia;
York Peninsula, Letwoen Spencer Gulf and Oulf of St Vincent ;
Capes Otway and Wilson, S. of Victoria; Cajie Howe, the S.E.
extremity of the continent; Cape Byron, the eastern extremity;
Sandy Cape and Cape Melville, on the N.E. coast.
GuUB and Sttsita.— Australia is but little indented by arms of the
ocean, and the coasts are g;eDerBllj' dclicieut in good harbours, though
Port Jackson in New South Wales, and Port Denison in Queensland,
are among the beat in the world. Torres Strait, hetwcen Australia
and Papua ; Gulf of Carpentaria, between Cape York and Point
Dale ; Admiralty Gnlf and Exmouth Gulf on the N.W. cosat; Shark
Bay and Giographo Bay on tha W. coast ; Great Australian Bight,
Spencer Gulf, St Vincent Gulf, Encounter Bay, and Port Philip, all
(in the sonthern coast ; Bass Strait, between victoria and Tasmania ;
Comer Inlet, Botany Bay, Port Jackson, Port Stephen, and Moreton
Bay, all on the cd^ aoBst.
RtTBTB and Lakea. — Auatralia is more delicient in its inlitnd waters
then any of the other continents ; while, with one important excep-
tion, the rivers that exist are not navigable to any coudderable extent.
The only great river hitherto explored is tha Murray, which, with its
main affluents, the DarUugand the M urmmbidjee, haa I U sources in the
m declirity of the range ol mountains that runs along the eastern
■oBst. Following its principal tinnosities, tha Unrmy is nearly liOOO
D length, while the area of Its basia is upwards of 500,000 sq.m. It
* Sir CUtrles Slchelaon, But. , In ' tVuieei1i>ig> at Rojal Oeogriplilciil S(idety,
rkeUai Johiistofl, luiL, In hit ' aaiilD«ok of Phyiloal Uengn]>Ii]r,' p. II.
6P8 POLITICAL GEOGRAPlir.
a general south-westerly course, and enters the Indian Ocean at Encounter
Bay, in the south-eastern angle of South Australia. The Murray is
navigable up to Albury, 878 m. S. W. of Sydney ; whUe its affluent, the
Murrumbidjee, is navigable to Gundagai, 240 m. from Sydney. The
Brisbane, falling into Moreton Bay, is navigable for 76 m. North of it
are the Fitzroy and the Burdekin, flowing to the east coast. On the
north coast may be mentioned the Mitchell, the Flinders, the Albert, and
the Roper, all flowing into the G. of Carpentaria. In the west of North
Australia, the Victoria runs northward mto Queen's Channel ; while in
Western Australia are the Fortescue, Gascoyne, Murchison, and Swan,
all flowing westward into the Indian Ocean. The principal lakes, as
already indicated, occur in South and West Australia, as Lakes Torrens,
Eyre, Frome, Gregory, and Gairdner, in the former colony ; Lakes Austin
and Moore in the latter, and Amadeus in Alexandra Land.
Climate. — As the northern third of Australia is situated in the
torrid zone, the climate of that portion is necessarily subject to
periodical rains and a high temperature. In general, the climate of
the Australian colonies may be considered as very dry — the amount
of moisture not exceeding that of Cape Colony and the southern parts
of South America, which places they also resemble in their mean
annual temperature. The Sydney summer is described as very de-
lightfal, and resembling that of Avignon or Constantinople ; while
its winter is compared with that of Cairo and Cape Town. Mean
annual temperature 62^.7, mean sunmier 69^6, and mean winter 54^
It is remarked that along the S.E. coast there is a constant variation
in the climate of each season through a cycle of twelve years ; for
six years there is a constant increase of drought, the sixth being
entirely rainless ; for the next six years there is a regular increase of
humidity, the last being a year of almost incessant rain. Mean
annual temperature at Melbourne 57^.6, spring 57**. 5, summer 65". 2,
autumn 58^ 6, winter 49^ The average rainfall at Sydney is 58 in.,
at Melbourne 32 in., and at Brisbane 55i in. In the interior plains
Sturt experienced a heat of 1 81** in the shade at mid-day in summer,
but at night the temperature became cool, and even cold. The
moisture brought by the northern monsoons, which are drawn
towards this continent in summer by the ascending current caused
by the heat of a vertical sun, is expended on the northern margin of
the continent in the summer rains ; but these do not usually pene-
trate farther than from 200 to 300 m. from the coast A rainless
summer characterises the rest of the continent ; and the winter rains
from the south do not seem to be experienced beyond the 30th
parallel of latitude.
Minerals. — The geological structure of this continent is character-
ised by great uniformity, the mountain-ranges of the coast consisting
of primary and palttozoic rocks ; while the whole of the interior, so
far as yet known, is of tertiary formation.
The finest practical result on record of a thorough knowledge of geology
deserves to be stated in connection with these mountain-ranges, l^'e
close resemblance of their structure to that of the Ural Mountains led
Sir Roderick L Murchison, in 1845, to predict that they would be found
r
oci:ama. 609
to hs Kurifemus; snil, sLt years aftencarda, Mr HargravES liiscovered
eiteaaice depoaita of the girecions metal at Batliurst and Wellington, ia
Kevt South Wales ; while since that time the most vaJuahU and eiteuiivs
gald-Gelda in the world have beeo found in various and widespread locall-
tiea, especially in the province of Victoria. At the International Ex-
hibition, held in London in 1882, a gilded pyramid was eihibited reprc-
— "ingthe quantity of gold aiported from Vict— '- " »o=i.-iCpi
It was 16 ft, high, 10 fL Eq, at ita base, and contained liSi cabic ft.
total weight of the gold thus represented was 1,793,995 lb., B<»ii!
^£104,649,723 sterling. Very little gold fa^ aa yet been found i
.r West Australia; but the former contains ineihanstibla deposits
copper of the tinest quality. Coal ia abundant in Nevr South Wales
(BspBcially on the river Hunter), together with iron ore, which will pro-
Iiably, ere long, be turned to good accoont ; coal is also found on the
Swan I^ver, in West Australia, a re^on which also abounde in mercury,
tine, lead, copper, iron, and other ores. Coal ia scarce, but iron [ilauti-
ful, in South Australia ; while gold, cnpper, and coal ore plentiful in
Queensland. On the whole, tlie rainei'al productions of Aus^lia equal,
if they do not surpass, in value those of any other continent.
Botany anil Agilcnltara.— The native flora of Australia and Tas-
ifnaiiia compriseB Schouw'a 24th Botanic Begion, named by hiiti
•■Brown's Begion," in honour of the late Bobert Brown, justly
Mjled. by Humboldt "the prince of botanista."
^ Thia r^on embraces one of the most peculiar floras ou the earth's
jiBTfacs, The native trees are all sveigreens, and the forests consist priu-
(dpally of gum-trees, of which there are upwards of 100 ei>ec!es, acacias,
and shrubs or small trees allied to the heath tribe. Of 6710 plantj
hitherto discovered in this continant, no fewer than 5440 are peculiar to
it. Bobert Brown alone, iu I30S, carried to this country 4000 species,
bults capable of being uaed an food, excepting a few beiries and'a kind of
cbestnut ; hut along the Murchison River, in Western Aunlralii, are found
wild tobacco, and an esculent tuber resembling the potato. All the prin-
cipal food-plants, however, have been introduced, and are cultivated with
great eucceaa in the different settlements ; while the vine, flg, orange,
peuch, and nunierouH other fruits, Sourish in the greate^C luxuriance
wherever they have Vaen tried. In some places, esjiecially in Queens-
land, the sT^ar-cane, indigo, and cotton plant are successfnlly cultivated.
Zi>ol<^. — This eoatinent, with the adjacent groups of ialanda which,
with it, oonatitute Melanesia, forois one of the tivo jirovinces into
whicb naturalists have divided the Oceanic Zoological Kingdom.
'I'he faans of this kin^luni ia the most jiecnliar and remarkable in
the world — nearly all its 150 spsuies of mainmalB being peculiar to
it ; the quadruiuana, pachydennBta, and niininautia are wholly
wonting ; the marsiipialia, oompminff 105 species, and the edentol^
S apecies, are all peculidr to it ; while of the 21 rodents, no fewer
tlioii IS apBCiBB are nnknown in any other (mrt of the world. The
kannroo, wombat, opoasum, hn,Ddicoot, porcupine ant-eater, onii-
tharbyn<has oi water-mol^ uid many other maiviipial animals, are
I kIL pccnllaT to thia continent and the islands in its ImDiedinta
koFKinity. Of thi-se animals, the largest and nioat characteristic are
e kangaroos, of whioh theiv am 4vveral ^puciati while the most
612
POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Commerce and Industry. — Fifty years ago Australia scarcely ap«
peai-ed in the commerce of the United Kingdom, and three of its five
colonies had then no existence. They now collectively contain more
than two millions of British colonists, and in wealth and civilisa«
tion occupy the foremost rank among European colonial possessions.
In 1878 their aggregate Exports amounted to £36,863,491, and their
Imports to £40,465,000. Including Tasmania and New Zealand, the
following tables show the conrmercial and financial condition of each
of the seven Australasian colonies for the year ending 31st December
1878 :—
Colony.
Total
Exports.
Total
Impoits.
Exports to
United
Kingdom.
Imports
from United
Kingdom.
N. S. Wales, .
Victoria, . .
S. Australia, .
W. Australia, .
Queensland,
Tasmania, . .
Ni Zealand, . .
£
12,965,000
14,925,000
5,355,000
428,491
3,190,000
1,315,695
6,015,525
£
14,768,000
16,161,000
5,720,000
380,000
3,436,000
1,324,812
8,755,663
£
5,516,000
7,561,000
3,079,218
204,061
999,261
501,113
4,017,525
£
6,658,000
5,859,750
8,079,666
141,360
916,757
262,953
* 4,314,004
44,194,711
50,545,475
21,878,178
21,232,490
Colony.
Revenue.
Expenditure.
Public Debt.
N. S. Wales,
Victoria, ....
S. Australia,
W. Australia,
Queensland, ....
Tasmania, ....
N. Zealand
£
4,915,000
4,485,000
1,501,411
163,344
1,561,545
386,060
3,915,000
£
4,940,000
4,634,000
1,353,582
198,243
1,543,820
376,000
4,365,000
£
11,688,000
17,022,000
6,622,000
161,000
10,192,086
1,738,500
22,608,000
16,927,360
17,410,645
70,031,586
The chief articles of Australian produce are gold, copper, and wool.
Victoria is the colony most remarkable for its gold. From the discoveJrr
of that metal in 1851 to 1878, the gross produce of the Victoria gold*
fields amounted to £192,050,682. Of its other exports wool now tanks
above gold, the total value exported in 1878 having been £5,81(V14S>
the greater part of which was sent to the United Kingdom; aad#^
follow leather, flour, tallow, and bark. The staple ortide of expocfcal
OCEANIA,
613
from Xew Sonth Wales is wool, n-hkh in 1678 amonnlpd in valne to
jf5,723,316 ; and next come Koici, Uve-slock, and coal. The coal-nunea
of this colony are of great extent, snd practically ineibiiUstilile. Wool,
corn, and copper are the principal articles eiported from South Anstralia,
the fint. mentioned alone umonntfng to about £1,834,000 per annum.
From Western Australia we derive oonaMerabie quantities of wool, with
copper and lead ores : and from Qneeniland, wool, gold, tin, copper,
hides, and tallow. The articles imported by the Australian colonir^
consist mainly of British teiMle maiinfactiires, metallio goods, machinery,
timber, tea. grain, spirits, and tobacco. The principal occnpations of the
peo|ile in the various colonies are thoHe of agriculture , stock'r&ising, and
. barley, and oats are largely
and tobacco succeed admirably, and uf
been given to the production of
■ ' large fraction of the
I
mimng. In New South Wi
onitivated ; while sugar, co
late jeaii couBiderable atl
■wins. Mining operations give employment
people in Victoria and New South Wales. Sonth Auxtralii
the granary of ttis continent, and the wheat and flour are objects of jn<^t
pride to the settlers, while the cultnre of the vine is a recoEnised branch
of industry. At the International Eihibition of 1S62. the wheat of Snuth
Australia gained the Hrst prize, and the cotton of Queensland was prn-
ronnced superior to that from any other part of the world. The Onega .
Plains in Queensland aSbnl pnstnrage ol the richest description: here
conntleBS nuiii Iters of horses, cattle, and nheep, roam in a half-wild state.
Intemil CommniilaaUoii.^Iii 1679 there were 2926 ni. of railway
open for traffic in Australia, of which Victoria had 1174 m.. New
South Wsks 718, South Australia ibS, and Queensland 500.
Prograsa of Dlaoovety. — On the evidence of a chart now deposited
in the British Museum, the earliest discovery of Australia must be
attribtlMd to the Portuguese ; hut the firaC recorded visit waa that nf
the Dstch, who, in 1606, discovered a portion of the north coast, and
gave the country the name of New HoDand. Cape York, its N.E.
ertremity, wail seen by the Spanish comiusjider, Luia Vaea de Torres,
a few months afterwards, thoueh little was kaowa of the country
until after Dam]iier, Wallia, and afterwards Cook, explored ita vari-
ous coasts. Captain Cook landed, in Botany Bay in 1770, now pre-
cisely 100 years a^ ; and 82 years ago — the iflere span of a hnman
life — the first British settlement was formed at Port Jackson. Fort
Philip, and the whole extent of coast lyin;; westward of it, was not
discovered tilt 1802 ; while the district of that name, which whs
formerly a dependency of New South Wales, and now called Vii;toria,
was not colouised tifl 1S35. The colony of Westera AuatniUa, nr
Swan River, was estahliahed in 1829, and, aftsr the ceEsation uf
transportation to Tssmanin, vms m.nl'^ " prTinl spftlmnmif, rt fhn
rennest of the colonifto. P.mdi 1..-11-.1 .,...>,Kni,»/i u. i.-.i .m.
Ionised in 1856 :
portion of New 80111
16S9. The fomoos k'
614 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHr.
TASMANIA.
Tasmania, formerly Van Diemen's Land, a colonial possession of
Great Britain, lies S. E. of Australia, from which it is separated bj
Bass Strait, 160 m. wide. Lat. 40' 40'— 43° 38' S.; Ion. 144** 37'—
148** 25' E.
In form this island is heart^haped ; its greatest length, which is nearly
the same as the breadth, is 180 m. The area is estimated at 26,215 sq.
m., or about one-fourth of that of Great Britain ; while the population, in
1878, was 110,000, being 4 persons to each sq. m.
Chief Towns. — Hobart Town 20 (Derwent), Launceston 11 (Tamar),
Westbury 2 (Quamby's Creek).
Hobart Town, the capital, in the same latitude as the south of Chil^,
and Christchurch in New Zealand, is a well-built town on the Denvent,
about 20 m. from its mouth in Storm Bay. The estuary of the river is
navigable for the largest vessels up to the town, which possesses a fine
whaif, a college, and an extensive foreign commerce, tiannceston, on
the northern side of the island, 120 m. from Hobart Town^ is the second
town in impoi*tance in the colony, and carries on a considerable traffic
with Victoria and South Australia.
Surface and Climate. — The surface is mountainous and highly
diversified, consisting of mountain-ranges, lofty table-lands, isolated
peaks, and fertile valleys and plains, generally clothed with forests.
The mountains of Tasmania, instead of being arranged into distinct
chains, as in most other countries, are dispei*sed in irregular groups
and isolated peaks over the greater portion of the surface. The
loftiest summits in the western half of the island are, Cradle Moun-
tain, 5069 ft., and Dry's Bluff, 4340 ft.; while on the eastern side
are, Ben Lomond, 6010 ft., and Mt. Wellington, near Hobart Town,
4257 ft. These are covered with snow for about eight months in the
year. The principal rivers of the country are the Dei-went, flowing
southward into Storm Bay, and the Tamar, northward into Bass
Strait. The table-land of the interior is bestrewed with lakes, the
largest of which are Great Lake, covering 28,000 acres, and Lnke
Sorell, 17,000 acres. The climate is delightful and highly salubri-
ous, resembling that of the S. and S.W. of England. The mean
annual temperature of the capital is 54j**, mean summer 62®, and
mean winter 47* Fah. The average fall of rain over the island is 23
inches. The soil is in most places highly fertile ; but being usually-
covered with dense forests, only a limited portion of the country is
yet under cultivation.
Natural Prodnctions. — The mineral treasures of Tasmania com-
prise gold, iron ore, galena, copper ore, manganese, coal, and salt ;
nut these have hitherto been out little developed. The principal
mineral districts are situated in the N.E. of the island. Gold is
found in small quantities, and at Fingal, near the E. coast, mining is
regularly carried on. Indeed, the mountains of Tasmania may be
re^^arded as forming a continuation of the eastern or auriferous ooir-
dillera of the continent. Iron ore of very pure quidity, and some of
I
GI3
I it highly miiiiietic, is of general occurrence. Coal of goo J quality ia
worked on tiie BBst coast, and ia knovrn to aiiat Tery generally
throughout the island ; and aalt is abtajned in the inteiior. The
[ Tegetation strongly resembles that of Victoria, and ia charscteiised
by its Eucalypti, acacias, mimosas, pines, and mvrtlea. The blue
gnm-tres is often found attaining a height of S50 ft,, and 100 ft.
Toand the hasa. The trees are all evergreen, the timber being highly
valnable, and many of them yielding pims and resioa. The leading
crops are wheat, oats, barley, potatoea, peas, and beans. Fruits of
nil kinds crow Iniuriantly, and ths preservation of fruit forma an
important branch of industir. Hops and tobacco are also extensively
cultivBted. The fauna also is almost identical with thst of Australia,
consisting of kangaroos, vrombats, 0]>03sums, bandicoots, and omi-
thorhynciii. The native tiger or hyena-opoBsum, and dasguru^ or
native "devil," are peculiar to Tasmania, snd perhaps also the wild-
cat. The birds are numerous, embraciug the emu, cockatoo, parrot,
eagle, black swan, pelican, duck, <Stc. lliere are several varieties of
snakes, two of which are venomous ; and iish are said to b« more
numerous than on the coasts of Australia. Black whalea abound in
■dl the surrounding seas, spermaceti whales in Bass Strait, and a
lucrative whale-Sahery is carried on along the southera eoast.
EtlmogmplLy. — The ahoiiginea, who appear to have belonged to
the same race as the nativea of the continent (though some regard
them aa more allied to the natives of New Guinea), have now cntii'ely
died out.
The islanii was first diauovered by the Dutch navigator, Tasman, and
named by him Van Diemen'a Land, in honour of hia patron, the then
fpveruor of the Dutch poasossione in ludia. In 1798 ita inantarity waa
established by Mr Bass, and the strait separating it from the mainland
waa named after him. In 1803 Lieulflnant Bowon was despatched from
Sydney with convicts of the moat abandoned character to form a penal
settlement at Hobart Town. Tt continued to be a place for tranapartn-
[tion of Erimmala till 1863. Formerly a dependency of New South Wales,
]t becan^e an independent eolony in 1825, with pohtical inatitutlans
Tesembling the Australian colonies. On account of the ill-repute attach-
ing to the arigjnal designation, ita name was changed, in 1S53, to Tas-
mania, The diacovery of gold in Australia has had a most untowuii
influence on this colony, leading to a great eicdns of ita population.
Sheep.farming ia eitanslvely foUowcd, and wool, wliich commands a high
pries in the English market, torms the chlDf export Its wlieat, butter,
and chefse ore largely exported to tlie adjacsnt colonies, Victoria being
ita best customer. For its Kevenue, ExpeuditDra, &c,, see table at
p, 612.
NEW ZEALAND
New Zealand, a colonial poitesaion of Great Britain, coniistinjc of
• chain of three large and Mintral Binaller islaniia, is situated in tiie
p fiouth PaciliR Ocean, about SOO m. E, nf Tamnaiiia. 1S50 S. E. of Vic
I. and 8000 m. W. of Palagonia, Lat, 31' 2?'— 47° SO' S. ; lun.
Bfl8°80'— irrstfE.
616 POLITICAL GBOGEAPHY.
Wellington, the new capital (lat. 41° 14')» situated near the south ex-
tremity of North Island, is on the same parallel as Launceston in Tas-
mania and the southern part of the Argentine Confederation. The
extreme length, extending m a curved line through the centre, measures
upwards of 1100 m. The North Island is 550 m. long, with an extreme
breadth of 200 m. South Island is 580 m. long, and from 160 to 200 m.
wide. These two islands are separated from each other by Cook's Strait,
16 m. wide; while South Island is separated from Stewart Island by
Foveaux Strait, about 10 m. wide. The latter is uninhabited.
Area and Population. — The area of the group is estimated at
105,342 sq. m., or considerably more than the area of Great Britain.
Stewart Island has an area of only 1300 sq. m., while South Island
is nearly one and a half times the size of North Island. The popu-
lation, which in 1858 numbered only 117,000, amounted in 1878 to
458,007, of whom 43,595 were aborigines, and the remainder British
settlers. The colony has quadrupled its population during the last
twenty years.
Political Divisions. — New Zealand is now divided into nine
Provincial Districts — viz., Auckland, Taranaki, "Wellington, and
Hawkes Bay, in North Island ; and Marlborough, Nelson, Canter-
bury, Westland, and Otago, in South Island. In 1870, the province
Southland, opposite Stewart Island, was amalgamated afresh with
Otago.
Wellington. — Wellington 21 (Port Nicholson), Wanganui 3 (W.
coast).
Taranaki. — Taranaki, or New Plymouth 2 (W. coast).
Auckland. — Auckland 30 (Hauraki Gulf), Grahamstown 10 (F.
of Thames).
Hawkes Bay.— Napier 6 (E. coast).
Marlborough. — Blenheim 1 (Cloudy Bay), Picton 1 (Waitoki
Bay).
Nelson.— Nelson 9 (Blind Bay):
Canterbury. — Christchurch 29 (Avon), Lyttleton 3 (PortLyttle-
ton), Timaru 3 (E. coast).
Westland. — Hokitiki 4 (W. coast).
Otago. — Dunedin 35, Port Chalmers 2 (Otago Harbour), Oaraaru
5 (E. coast), Invercargill 4 (Red River).
Bescriptive Votes. — Wellington, on the splendid harbour of Port
Nicholson, an inlet of Cook's Strait, has been the cap. of New Zealanil
since 1865. It was the first and principal settlement of the New Zealand
Company, which was established in 1838, and, from its central position,
is far better adapted than Auckland for being the seat of government.
Taranaki was founded in 1840 by emigrants from Devon and Cornwall.
Auckland, the second town in New Zealand, and for some time the seat
of government. It has steam communication with Melbourne, Sydney, the
Sandwich Islands, and San Francisco. Nelson, on the N. coast of South
Island, is a thriving town, with some manufactures of cloth and leather.
Christchurch, a very thriving settlement, established in 1850. It is con-
nected with Lyttleton, its seaport, 9 m. distant, by a railway, tunnelled
at great expense. Hokitiki, cap. of the new i)rovince of Westland, for-
I
OCEANIA. 6!7
mariy part of provinca Caulerbnry, owes its eitraoiilinarF rapid rise to
tlio discovery of rery prmiuctive gold-liBlds in iti vitiiiity iii loBB. Dim-
edin, tbe Lugest ci^ in New Zealand, was founded in ISiB by a tody of
Scotch BioigraiiiCs in connection with the Free ChnTch. Its prosperity
dates fi^ra 1S61, when eit«iisiva ^Id-fields were diEcovered in its ueigh-
bonrhood. laTBTCdMlll, formerly the cap. of the small province Sonth-
land, is named after Captain Cargill, one of the principal foonders of the
colony of OUgp.
Snrface and dlmate.— A chain of snow-clad mountains traverses
the two larger islands in the direction of their greatest length, throw-
ing ofT, in North Island, sereml lateral ranges containing lofly vol-
canic pealts, amongst irhich are Mount Egmont (now extinct), 8270
ft., and Tongariro, 7000 ft. The culminating point of the monntaiii
system of Hew Zealand is Mount Cook, in South laland, 13,200 1^.
high. The climate ts universally described as remarkably salubrious
aud agreeable, initder and more equatjle than our own, the tdnters
beintj warmer, while cool refreshing sea-breezes prevent ojipresaivc
heat in summer. Heavy rains and high gales are frequent, but there
is no rainy season. Mean annual temperature of Auckland, 60° 3';
mean summer; 68° 7', and mean winter, 53° S'. Mean annnal tem-
- peratnre at Danedin, GO°i hottest month, GS": coldest month, 42°;
annual fall of rain, SO inches ; bnt for South Island, in general, the
rainfoU is 32 inches, and for North Itdand 60 inches. The raoge of
the thermometer is much less than in England. Snow seldom tails,
except in the sontli, where the elevation of the snow-line is 6000 fL
Hatnial Products-— The islands consist, in general, of trap and
volcanic formation, but tnany of the roots are cryaSalline, while the
■odimentary formations are of shale and grey sandstone. These con-
tain remarkable fossil birds, the most extraordinary of which is the
gigantic moa, which must have been from 10 to IS ft. high. The
mmeral prodncta are valuable and extensive, and in no respect in-
ferior to those of the other Australian colonies. Gold was discovere'l
in province Otaga in 1861, and in 18S5 very rich deposits were
fonnd at Hokitiki, vhere mining operations are still carried on on a
large si»le. Irnn-sand abounds in largo quantities on the various
»«a-eoftsls, and is found to melt into a metal equal to the beiit
Staffordshire iron. Copper eii.'ts in several places, but not in sufli-
cient qnantities to pay for working. Silver, lead, tin, manganese,
alum, and sulphur, occur in particnmr localities. Coal-scams of con-
Btderable thickness and of excellent quality are wrought at Nelson
and in province Auckland.
The Bora of this country forms a botanical centre called Forster's
Region, whicb forms a coimecting-llnk between the ftoras of South Arne-
rica, Australia, and Cape Colony. Already 650 species are Imown to
botanists- a very large proportion of which are plants peculiar to this
le^n. The latter include New Zealand flu. from the tibrea of which it
cordage of singnlar tenacity and strength is formed. Ferns cover larBo
' It of the conntrr, often attaiaing enormous dimensions. The tree-
■ ' " The Kauri pice is the most
618 POLITICAL GEOGKAPIIY.
famous of New Zealand trees, bat it is confined to the province of Auck-
land. Its timber is highly prized for building purposes, and is largdy
exported to the English dockyards for spars to the xxiyal navy, aao-
pean grains of all kinds, fruits, and vegetables, grow luxuriantly on the
cleared surface, and admirable pasture for cattle is produced by sowing
the English grasses. When first visited by Europeans, New Zealand was
found to contain no indigenous land quadrupeds ; but when the first
colonists arrived in the country, they found hogs, dogs, and a few rats
and mice, probably introduced by runaway convicts from Australia. The
geology of the country presents a like absence of the remains of any
mammaliferous animal ; but a prodigious number of well-pre^rved fossil
birds, of the struthious order, are found in the post-pliocene and pleisto-
cene deposits. The Bijiomis and PtUapteryx were of gigantic size, vary-
ing in height from 4 to 11 ft. A wingless bird {ApUryx), the smallest
living representative of the ostrich family, still abounds in these islands,
which, however, do not contain many species of the feathered tribe.
There are no serpents or other venomous reptiles ; but fish swarm on the
coasts and in the rivers. Whales and seals, once very abundant, have
been greatly reduced in number by the ruthless modes of capture long
practised ; but the whale-fishery is still carried on with success.
EtlmogFapliy. — ^The aborigines, who are known as Maories, belong
to the Malayo-Pol}'ne8ian race, and difier very widely from the
natives of the Australian continent.
They are a tall, well-built, active, and intelligent people, with curling
glossy black hair and copper complexion. Many of them have been con-
verted to Christianity, and in some districts they have considerable tracts
of land under cultivation. They are very courageous in war, and have at
different times been very troublesome to the colonists. Hie race is rapidly
on the decline, their number in 1878 not exceeding 43,000, of whom
31,000 inhabited North Island. For many years they have been engaged
in an intermittent war with the colonists, and it seems almost impossible
for the two races to live peaceably and permanently beside each other.
The unscrupulous mode in which their huntii^-grounds have been taken
possession of by the settlers has given them, ui^ppily, sufficient cause
for the bitter hostility which they nave evinced. According to their own
tradition, the Maories migrated to New Zealand, about 500 years ago,
from a place which they denominate Havniihi, Probably this signifies
Hawai, in the Sandwich Islands, as the Maori language is evidently a
dialect of the Malayan, and so closely resembUng the Hawaian and Ti^-
tian that the natives of New Zealand readily understand the natives of
the Sandwich and Society Islands, though these are situated at a vast
distance from New Zealand. The emigrants are mostly persons of the
middle ranks of life, who, attracted by the climate and fertility of the
country, have gone out in companies to lay the foundation of a prosper-
ous nation at the antipodes. New Zealand was discovered by Tasman in
1642, and was visited repeatedly by Captain Cook between 1769 and 1778.
After that it became a ^quent resort for whalers and others. The first
settlement of Europeans took place as early as 1814, but the colonisation
of the country did not commence in earnest till 1838, when the New
Zealand Company was formed, and commenced operations at Wellington.
New Zealand was formed into a colony in 1840. A &ee constitution,
consisting of a House of Representatives and a L^siative Council, came
into force in 1853. In regard to religious statistics, the Chnzoh of Ecg-
lltnd iias 7I,4D0 BdiieTeDls; Scottish PreAlivtBrinnE. 38,000; tbe niurcli
i Rome, li,i>if<: uud Weslcyui HetLodkU., I^SUO. ^ncstimi i> well
Bleudinl lo ill uU tlie jjrovmi^es.
CmunBToe anil ladnnry. — "Witl) the eiceiition of gold and gold
nisi, wool iti more lsrgel3' eipart»d tliui auj" other Qommodily. ] n
f 1S76, the poIdq; aant to Great Brituti nnol to tLe ndaG of £3,238.000,
Ed of gold, i£],lT5,66S. The gmn kDuwn hb "Esnii guin" fomii
importsnt article in the ei]>orts feani Aaukland. It ie found at n
K^nanderabie deu^ beneiLth the snrbce. and gKDerallj in tertiur;
Btmciated with ciiaL SMpliaildiiig and the trade in tiiulwr
: lu miaiiig aud wool-gruwiiin, tht ciliief iie]iartiueule of the
T of tiie uoloDT (p. 612).
Anbklaad Ides.— These
■meral aiuall islandE, aboi
|.Uaad is about Si> m. loug and IS broad, lute
Tfl3;ptAtiaiL, Thtrj
'olcanic giouii nf one la
Ifcn. 17B°<^ K.), le Ilie Is
. ,^ ,. _ _; larm and
K Zealand. The laigesl
_. „ , - c--d harboujB, and is
■ iorered with liuh vejetation, Thrj were dieoorarad in 1806 by CapUuii
v^rinioe, one of the ngent)^ of Ur Enderby, to whom the Eoctish Guvern-
Kipeut have granted tlisui ax a ceutiiLl whaliug stotim. When discoTcred
m Ae.v were uoinhabitBd, and conLaiued nu laud auiiaals. Since ISlti IhL-v
I jiave beun occnpied by ai
8,E of Sew Zealand (lai tSf 32" B.,
e eoutliero iaeraiqrhBre moal iiBarlj-
r 4*i>poBil£ to Great Britain.
rai».t:h»ni lain, 3g0 n>. E. of Ken Zeolniid, form a amuU Dluster of
iatanda, the two hugest of wliicli an named f^Jitl^m and Pitt lalaud.
Ther wbte discirvered by LieDUmaut Uron^too in 1761, and vere iu-
hahited by a hannleas raoe of 1200 BaTugus, vho iu 1B30 were reduced to
■laverf by a liand of New Zcaianden. and are now nearly eitinol. The
jiroducta are similar to thoBC of Kew Zealand, to nbich they belong.
XarOak Island. 475 m. K.W. of Ke« ZEalaiid and ISOO E.K.K of
Sydney, ie a siuidt bat buautiful ialand beloupnE to Gnat Britain. It
baa an area of 19 aq. m., is well watered and fertik, but bai neither har-
henr nor roadBtead. It was orlgiuully approunatad lor a penal colony of
•1,.. unrst daas, but after being cleared of felonc it was culunimd bv ib*
. :.n.^ J — :. n n:a ^^^ p„^ undfiT the Goiemnient of Kaw Bontli
Fitcaini islanders ii
Vales. lt£ oi
d for their siae and beauty. Pop. *B1.
} miles K of QueeuElaud,
^ , ., , in 1863. toDlL jiossesFiou of
\ ftam together with the Isles of Pinas ; area 12,000 sq. m., pop. 14,000,
' ' " inoB are a robust race of Papuan nemjes, who speak a lauRUitgc
mthatofl^neighbounngislandG, The surface is niountuuou^
.w Bebiides. a sroup of about twenty large and a much gjeatar nuni-
it smaUer islands, N. E. of Kew Caledonia, fiam nhiuh Esjiirltu Suito.
t ut tlieiu. is about 373 m. diatant. The area is estiuiatBd it
1.. aud the I>ap.. who are of the Papuan laoe, at about 15D.UO0.
le poup it of volesuit ongiu. and in Tanna is a volcano of great sc*""—
TSl^tlie Islando ri-— ■"-'■•'—" '"■" "' -i. — .i — .j-. .
it water, aud fuew
w South
620 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
tions are figs, nutmegs, oranges, cocoa-nuts, bananas, bread-fruit, cotton,
and the sugar-cane. Erromanga, north of Tanna, has acquired a melan-
choly celebrity as the scene of the murder of the devoted missionary
Williams in 1839. Though Christianity has spread widely through bis
labours, the great bulk of the natives still continue cannibals of the
most savage type. In Tanna all the whites were butchered in 1875.
Queen Charlotte Islands, a group of volcanic islands, between the New
Hebrides and the Salomon Islands, comprising Santa Cruz, Nitendi, and
Manicolo. They are populous and well wooded, the natural productions
being similar to those of the New Hebrides. Manicolo was the scene of
La Perouse's disastrous shipwreck in 1788.
Salomon Isles. — This archipelago, lying E. of New Guinea, from which
it is about 275 m. distant, consists of eight principal with numerous
minor islands, and extends from N.W. to S.E. for nearly 600 m. They
have not been carefully surveyed, but they are said to be mountainous^
fertUe, well wooded, and of volcanic origin. The population consists
partly of Malays, and partly of Papuan negroes. The largest islands ai-e
Bougainville, Choiseuil, Isabel, Malayta, Guadalcanar, and San Christoval.
Lonisiade Archipelago, a group of about 80 islands, situated about 60
m. E.S. E. of New Guinea ; they are covered with dense forests, and are but
thinly inhabited by negroes of the Papuan race. The shores are protected
by coral reefs, while the channels between the islands are very aeep.
New Britain consists mainly of two large, mountainous, and populous
islands, the most westerly of which is about 50 m. E. of the shores of
New Guinea. The larger island is supposed to have an area of 11,000 sq.
m. In the most northerly is a volcano in active operation. Extensive
plains of great fertility stretch along the shores of both islands. The
natives are of the Papuan race. They were discovered by Dampier in
1700 ; cocoa-nuts, sago, bread-fruit trees, yams, and ginger, are among their
principal products.
New Ireland, N.K of New Britain, is about 200 m. long, by 12 broad.
It was discovered by Carteret in 1767. The surface is fertile, and the
hills covered with forests. The inhabitants resemble the aborigines of
Australia, are black and woolly-haired, and extremely savage. The only
articles of commercial value which the island produces are fancy wood
and tortoise-shell. Area 4360 sq. m.
Admiralty Isles, a group of one large and numerous small islands^ 150
m. N. of New Guinea, which they strongly resemble in natural products.
The natives are a Mday race, of lar^e suture, well formed, ana differing
but little from Europeans, except m the colour of their skin, which i«
black, but not of the deepest shade.
Fapna, generally called New Guinea, the largest island in the world,
is situated N. of Australia, from which it is separated by the Arafura Sea
and Torres Strait It extends from the equator to lat. 11" S., and from
Ion. 131° to 151° E. This vast island must, on the whole, be regarded as
forming a portion of Australasia (as above defined) rather than of Mai*
aysia, notwithstanding that it forms the great easternmost section of
that huge archipelago. At the present moment, however, there is prob-
ably no country of equal extent on the earth's surface about which so
little is kno'wn, not excepting the interior of Australia and Africa. Tt
was discovered by Torres, the well-known Portuguese navigator, in ld06|
UCEAN'IA. G'll
iteil Ijy Boil goinville ill 1763, by CapUiu Edwards of tLe Pujiiinra i n
1791, by Captuiu Beklier in 1840, by Captsiu Blackwood iu the Fly in 184u,
■Jrho Burveyad tlie portion of the islaud opposite Capa York, anil finally
by Captaia Qirea Stauley iii Uib Ratlleiiiiuit in 1350, who carefully ei-
aiuinea tbo entire 8.W. coast. The Dutch eatabliahed a colony oa tliis
coast In 1(J28, but eooa abaadaned it, owing to tlie pestileutial cbaracter
^i-*L^ _i..^_.^ __j -.Yg hoatiUty of tbe nattve" ^~ " "-- ^-' — -■ --
semblei a crocodile, baring ita back turned towards tbe equator and its
head directed towaida Borneo in the Indian Archipelago. Its eitreina
lanfrtbialSOOni.; breadth, 300 m.; sopposed area, about SG(l,(IOO sq. iii.^
and tbe population abont 1,000,000. The climate is eicsssively wet and
insalubrious. Tbe interior is very mauntaiiiaus — several summits iu tbe
western portion of the island rising to about 9500 ft.; while in the other
citremity Mt, Owen Stanley attains an alei-ation of upwards of 13,000 ft.
The forests, whiub cover a lai^e portion of the whole area, and line the
mountain-sides to a great lieight, abound in gigantic trees, among which
are tbe camphor -tree and sago palm. Papua is tbe native region of tbe
true aromatic nutmeg, aud otiier spices are found in tbe woods. Both
Suns and cocoa-nuts are plentiful, as nl.^o rice, maize, and tlii.' sugar-cane,
old is said to occur in cifluy parts of the island, Tbe only quadrupeds
known to eiist are dogs, ratK. wild bogs, and several epecies of marsupial
■ntmals. Theia are upwards of 20U0 birds, including hinls of paradise,
of which this is tbe native tcgioi^ and a gigantic pigeon, nearly as large
-a turkey. Tbe inhabitants, who are of tbe same race as those of New
ne^ race, resembling in some respects the negroes of AiMca ; but the
hair, instaad of being woolly, like tna latter, grows in tufts which stretch
out to an enormous len^h ; while, both intellectually and socially, tliey
are imnieasnrably behind the natives of Africa. Tbey are hideously ugly,
with large eyes, toraed-up noses, very prominent lips, and a sooty-col-
tiiired skm. Their natunQ deformity is increased by their passing bone.i
and pieces of wood through the cartil^e of the nose. The languages
known of any of tbem that no classification is as yet possible ; but they
are probably mon allied to the dialects of Australia and S, India than to
tlie notay-Polynesian langu^es of other paiia of Oceania (p. 611). Thu
Dutch alaim possession of the whole western halt of the island, but at
present have no settlement on any part of it, eieept oi
GeelTlnk Bay, on tha N-W, coast, wliere they maintain ■ bii:«i) muhi-
lishment. This is the only place where the natives oome in contact with
Europao-DS, aud there is an active and MoJusive trade carried on between
it and the Moluccas, under the Dutch Bag, consisting of birds of paradise,
featliers, nutmeg, pearls, gold, flTie wooiU, raisins, bsjnhoos, ^■
AtrOO Islei, a group of islands in the ArafuruSea, south of New Guinea,
lieloiigingto tbe Dutch; they extend from N. to 8, about 127 ni.: thetbi-ce
latgeat are named Cobror. Trana, and Vorcay. Dobbo, a town on the
island Wammo, inhabited by Dutch and Chiuest merchants, la at present
the greatest mart in the North of Australasia, The products comprise
L Jiflail, tortoise-sbell, birds of paradise, and trepang or sea-cucuuiber {au
" tdible animal of the Holothuriu family). The inhabitants, 60,000 iu
nimber, are a miitnre of the Malay and Australasian negro races,
Ttmorlkllt, about midway between the Arrito tales and Timor, is about
lis m, !oug by ii lu. broad. The surtaM is mountainons and woii>lc 1.
iud the coasts areguirounded bj rttfs and luud-hanks.
622 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
II. MALAYSIA.
Malaysia, also called the Eastern, Indian, or Asiatic Archipelago,
forms the N.W. division of Oceania, and is the largest collection of
islands on the globe. It is situated on both sides of the equator,
between Further India and China on the one side, and the continent
of Australia and New Guinea on the other, having the China Sea and
Strait of Malacca on the N.W., the Indian Ocean on the W., the
Arafura Sea on the S., separating it from Australia and New Guinea,
and the Pacific Ocean on the N. K
Extending fix)m the Bashee Islands, lat. 21" N., to Sandalwood, 11° S.,
and from Achin in Sumatra, Ion. 95** 25', to the eastern coast of Ceram,
131" W E., it extends over 22 degrees of latitude and 36 of longitude.
The area of the entire archipelago is estimated by the latest authorities at
784,000 sq. m., and the population at nearly 29,000,000, or less than the
population of the British Isles, with upwards of six times their area.
More than a third of the whole area belongs to Borneo, which is very
thinly peopled^ and more than a half of the population to Java, the
most ffounshing island in Malaysia, and reganled by the late learned
John Crawford as the centre of its civilisation. Malaysia is subdivided
into seven principal groups — 1. The Sunda Islands, in the W. and S. ; 2.
Borneo ; 3. The Celebes ; 4. The Moluccas or Spice Islands ; 6. The San-
guir group ; 6. The Sooloo Archipelago ; 7. The Philippine Isles. All these
groups are more or less of volcanic origin, and exhibit at the present time
active volcanoes in numerous localities. " Their entire area is traversed
by a part of the great belt of volcanic disturbance which surrounds the
Pacific Ocean, and indeed contains the most active and terrible part of
this circle. The line of this belt passes from Mt Erebus in Antarctica,
through the North Island of New Zealand and Papua, to meet the cir-
cular line of greatest disturbance, a branch of the main belt which winds
through the Greater and Lesser Sunda Islands, from Sumatra and Java
to the chain of smaller islands east of these, across the Banda Sea to
Ceram and Gilolo, and thence with the main belt through the Philippine
Isles, round the E. coast of Asia. " * The volcanic mountains are mostly
of trachyte ; but basalt and granite occur in Java, and obsidian in Bali ;
while chalk and tertiary formations are widely extended. Amon^ the
loftiest summits in the archipelago may be mentioned Mt. C^hnr in
Sumatra, 13,840 ft. above the sea, and probably the loftiest mountain in.
Malaysia; Mt. Semeroe in Java, 12,235 ft ; and Kini Balu, in Borneo,
13,698 ft. Gold is generally diffused throughout the islands, and seve-
ral of them contain silver, tin, copper, coal, and iron. The climate^
though tropical and moist, is moderated by the surrounding seas. TIm.
mean annual teniperature at Bencoolen la Sumatra is 82".5 ; in Java,
78° ; and in the Philippines, 81". The rainy season varies in different
parts of the archipelago, according as they are exposed to the S.GL
or the N.E. monsoon. The luxuriant vegetation, combhied "with tht
great heat and moisture, render the climate unhealthy to Europeaiis,
especially on the low grounds. The vegetable products are exoeeoinglj
varied. The hills are clothed with forests of the most valuable ^
and the plains yield the richest plants and spices in s]*ontaiieoii8 r^
ance. Palms, bamboos, rattans, teak, ebony, sandalwood, and n
* Keith Johnston, Jnn., ' Hand-Book of Physical 6oogiiq;iii|'.
r
OCEAfilA. 623
Bcd Eum-bearing treei, tpgetlier with cloi-es, nutmegs, aromatin tiws,
pepper, giDger, eotUin, tobacco, sugar, sweet potato, and numerona
fmita, are Terr plenliful. The gr^a cuitivated in the larger and more
civilised islands are maize, millet, pulses, and rira; but in the others,
sago forms the chief food of the inhabitants. The fauna embraces the
■lephsnt, hippopotamus, tiger, panther, deer, vild hog, rhinoceros, and
many species of the monkey and orang-outang. Tlie ox and buffalo are
nsed for aericnltural purposes. Birds of nnnierous kinds and beautiful
plumage lUl the woods. Crocodiles are found in the western, and tor-
toises are numeroue in the eastern portion of the archipelago; while Hsh,
ra distmct races of
population, especially i
.repang, o^st^rs, and other shelifisk are common. The al „
" 1- •■ • ' n— the Malays, who form the great bulk of the
le west ; and the Papuan or black race, who ara
luudL uummuiin iji luv «jiAt. The former are characterised by a light-
bmwn or olive coiupkxion, long straight hair, short stature, aud. rohuet
body, strong and active in their habits, in some localities considerably
advanced in civilisation, in others roving piiates. Bverfwhere migratiODS
are by water. Their boats and canoes are to these inlanders what the
camel, the horse, and the oi are to the wandering Arab and the Tartar ;
and the eea is to them what the atrppei are to the latter. The Malayaa
language is widcspreud, extending not only over the Malaysiaa archi-
iwlago, but also throughout New Zealand, Polynesia, and the Malay Pen-
insula. It is soft and harmonious in pronunciation, simple and easy in
its grammatical system, plain and natural in the eoustructioii of seu-
tencea, and there are fovf, if any, of its aoutids which cannot be readily
articalated by Europeans. Though possessing some distinctive charac'
teristics of its own, a considerable portion of zts vocabulary is borrowed
from the Sanscrit, while it has been to some extent inHuenced by the
Arable. It possesses a written literature, w.hicb, however, is greatly
inferior to tMt of either the Hindoos or Chinese. The Papuans have
negro features and cnrly hair, are generally of small stature and a spare
puny form, and are less civilised than the Malays. Uohammcdanism is
the prevailing religion among the Malay race ; the Hindoo faith is pro-
fessed by a portion of the natives; while Christianity has been intmduced
into the European settlements. Politically, the archipelairo is held by
a number of independent native chiefs, and by the Dutch, Portuguese,
Spanish, and Britisli.
The Sunda Islajids, in the W. and S. of Malaysia, separate the
Indian Ocean from the Seas of Ohina and Jam, and emhraoe 3iiiii-
Btra, Java. Bali, Lombok, Sumbawa, Sandalwood, Floris, Solor,
Wetter. Timor, and numeroniS smaller islands on both sides of Snm-
0 Borneo, tito
Sumatra, the n
'esterl/ of tbe group
1 Malaysia, i» titnatsd tr ■'
y llie S:™
L a,600,l.n«.,
I DftheF^.:"
I lenBlh b'. :.
.1 Ihs most part
of its givatest
I Mount Ophir
fi-rtlle, Jimflb*
t>24 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
dense forests, whicli contain an inexhaustible store of tim1)er and fruit-
trees. The principal articles of export are pepper, ginger, rice, sago,
millet, cocoa-nuts, betel-nuts, gold-oust, sulphur, camphor, and ^tta-
percha. In the N. there are seyeral petty native states, the cmef of
which is Achin or Atchin ; but the Dutch, who effected a settlement here
in 1649, are now the masters of nearly all the territory south of lat. b^
20' N., their princiual settlements being Padang and Bencoolen, on the
W. coast. In 1874, the portion of the pop. subject to them numbered
1,621,000. The inhabitants, who are considerably advanced in civilisa-
tion, manufacture gold and silver filigree work, silk and cotton fabrics,
earthenware, arms, and many other wticles ; while the European colo-
nists successfully cultivate the vine.
Java, the most important and populous island in Malaysia, and the
chief seat of Dutch power in the East, is situated S.E. of Sumatra, from
which it is separated by Sunda Strait. Area, including Madura, 52,000
sq. m. ; pop. 17,298,0()0, of whom about 17,000 are Europeans. It is
traversea, in the direction of its greatest length, by a mountain-chain,
which ha.s a mean elevation of 1000 ft. ; but many volcanic cones
rise to 10,000 ft. Volcanoes are, indeed, more numerous in Java
than in any other country of equal extent in the world, and volcanic
phenomena are often displayed on the grandest and most terrific
scale. The climate is characterised by great heat in the plains, and
by numerous earthquakes and thunderstorms. The rainy season extends
from October tiU March. Minerals comprise iron, tin, salt, sulphur,
and nitre. The range of vegetation is very great, embracing the palms of
the tropics and the mosses of the temperate zone. The far-famed upat
tree flourishes in the woods, and speedily destroys life if its juices gain
access to the animal system, but it neither poisons the air nor injures the
surrounding vegetation. This is the only island of the great archipelago
of which the teak-tree is a native. Java is the granary of the Asiatic
Archipelago, and is supposed to be capable of supporting many times its
present amount of population, only about one-thira of the surface being
under culture. Rice is the principal grain, and is cultivated all along the
coast ; coffee is the great staple of export ; while indigo, tobacco, cotton,
cinnamon, ginger, cubebs, maize, pulses, vegetable oils, cocoa, and sago,
are other principal products. The fauna resembles that of Sumatra,
embracing tigers, tiger-cats, leopards, jackalls, rhinoceroses, buffaloes,
crocodiles, and serpents. The Javanese are of the Malay family, and
profess Mohammedanism mixed with Buddhism. They possess a national
literature, and translations from the Sanscrit and Arabic, and are superior
in civilisation to the inhabitants of Malaysia generally. The whole of
Java belongs to the Dutch, whose first settlement here was formed in 1575.
Batavia, on the N.W. coast, is the capital of their possessions, not only
in Java, but in the East Indies generally ; it is a highly-important com-
mei*cial town, with 65,000 inhabitants. SamarangT50,000), and Soura-
baya (90,000), both on the N. coast, are fortified seaports, and are
highly-flourishing cities. Nearly all the exports of Java consist of vege-
table produce, the principal articles being coffee, sugar, indigo, and rice.
Almost the whole of the commerce is carried on with the Netherlands,
by means of the Dutch East India Company. The total exports, in
1873, amounted to £9,089,900 ; imports, £6,726,000.
Bali, Lombok, Timor, and the other islands of the Sunda group, stretch-
ing in a long chain to the E. of Java, and separated from it and from each
otber by narrow channels, though containing numerous native slates, are
r
I
iitliject to tlia Dutch, Eicept DOrtheca Timor, in whioli tLc Pottuguet^
have eatabUahed Bettlements. Belli or Dellj. the Portuguese citp. ot
Timor, is situaifld on the N.W, coast; while Coopang, ou the ? ' '-
11,21!
907,(H
Tbe Borneo Group, compriaing the Urge inlanil nl Borneo, in the
centra of the Malay Archipelago, with Labnun off the H.W. const,
and Natum and An»mbaa between it and the Malay peninsula.
Borneo, N. of Java and E. of Cape Komaota, is, next to New Guinea,
the largest Island on the globe, having a froliabla area of 'lSI),mO sq. m.,
sr nearly four times the size of Qreat Bntain ; the pop. is estimated at
1,760,000, of whom abont l,S35,6O0 are subject to the Dutch. The E., S.,
and W. coasts, with the eitception of a few spota, remain qnite nnioiowu,
B3 also nearly the wboie of the interior. It is traversed by two ranf^a
of nioontaiiis, whioh have a general directiou of S.W. and N.E. The
lofdeat of these, Iteing that nearest the Asiatic continent, attains itx
highest elevation in Kini Balu, 13,698 ft. above the sea. Borneo is noted
for the abundance of its valuable minerals, especially for its diamond
mines near Pontianak. EKcellent coal, said to be superior to that of
Neweastie, k wrought in Borneo Proper, Banjnrmiisni, and Sarawak.
Valuable mines of antiinoiiy occur iu the province Sarawak ; while iron,
tin, capper, and platina are found in numerous localities. The flora ami
fauna are of the most varied and goigeous deaoription. The forests fur-
nish valuable timber and the gutta-percha tree. The jirincipal cultivated
plants are sago (here the chief food of the natives), maize, rice, cucoa-uut,
ajid the plant from which the resinous gum iwozoiu is produced. The
orang-otitang is peculiar to this island ^id Sumatra. Another peculiar
animal is the ^aniD^iViu barbaitu, a carnivorous mammal I'esenibling
at once the otter and omithorhyncbus. The iuhabitanta belong to four
races — the aborigiues, Malays, Chinese, and Europeans. The aborigiues,
who are named Dyaks, considerably resemble the natives of the Cflleliei
and of the Anstralion continent, while tlieir dialects form a linli in tlie
The Malays have tstab-
J, afits and navigable rivein,
where they occnpy themeelves in commei'ciai, but tn'queutly abio iu
piratical, pursuits. The Chmeee are very industrious, and conduct ex-
clnaivety the mining business of the country ; while the Europeans are
for the most part Dutch and English traders. Abont two-thirds ot tlie
ulaod, composing the entire centre and south, are tributary to the
Dntch, who have here two settlements, Banjanaaaain and Pontianak.
Tlie province of Sarawak was purchased from the native chiefs by Sir
James Brooke, In 1842, who, with his heirs, bear the title of Bajnhs
of Sarawak. Borneo or Bruni, formerly the metropolis of a large iu-
dependeut kingdom, contains a pop. of about 22,000. It was taken by
the British in 181B, and the sniall island, Labnftn, 30 m. farther N., a
few mcntha aftei-wards. llis latter contains a colony at Tictoria, has a
harbour, and extensive mines of excellent coal.
The CsletaM Qrouii, including the large island Celebes, together
wtth Bouton, .XtiUa, Ac, is situated E. of Borneo, from wjiicli it is
teparated by the Strait of Macassar.
CxLERBS, Hie only really important island of the gi'nup, lia£ an area of
I about 73,000 sq. m., aud a nnp. of abont 3,500,000. The shape k ex-
I tremely irregular, the island being broken up into s series of peniusulai.
626 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
The surface is greatly diversified, and in the sublimity of its scenery is
said to surpass any other island in Malaysia. The climate is healtliy
and agreeaole, though hot in the low grounds. Minerals comprise dia^
monds, gold, copper, iron, salt, and ftulphur. The forests, though not
extensive, contam a great variety of trees, from one of which the well-
known Macassar-oil is extracted. The anoa, a fierce kind of antelope
about the size of a sheep, is peculiar to this ^up. The trepang-fishing
and the catching of turtle occupy thousands of the natives, who consist
of several races — viz., the Horaforas, in the centre ; the Bugis, on the
coasts, a maritime commercial people more resembling the Polynesians
than the Malays ; and the Badjus, or sea-gipsies, who constantly reside
in their ships, and carry on extensive commerce with China, to which
they export cotton, edible birds' nests, tortoise-shell, and pearls. Celebes
was discovered by the Portuguese in 1512 ; but in 1660 the^ were ex-
pelled by the Dutch, who continue to control the island. Their principal
establishments are Menado, in the N.E., and Macassar, near the S. W«
extremity. Area of Dutch portion 45,000 sq. m., pop. 356,000.
The Moluccas or Spice Islands, comprising Bouro, Amboyna,
Cemm, Banda, Gilolo, &c., form a widely-scattered group, lying be-
tween Celebes and New Guinea. Area, 43,000 sq. m.; pop. 376,000.
The Moluccas are mountainous, volcanic, subject to earthquakes, and
very fertile, producing nutmegs, cloves, and other spices, fine woods, and
a great variety of fruits. On the coast are numerous pearl and trepang
fisheries. These islands are, for the most part, subject to the Dutch,
whose chief seat of power is at Axnboyna, which, next to Batavia, is the
principal station of Dutch commerce in Oceania. The people consist of
Malays, Papuans, Chinese, Japanese, and some Europeans.
The Sangolr or Sanglr Group, consisting of an archipelago of 46
small islets, is situated in the Celebes Sea, north-west of Gilolo.
Pop. 12,000.
The Sooloo Archipelago, m the Celebes Sea, between Borneo and
the Philippine Isles, consists of a group of above 60 islands, the
principal of which is Cagayan, in the centre ; area, 450 sq. m. ; pop.
200,000.
The PhUlppine Isles, an extensive archipelago in the north-east
of Malaysia, separated from Further India by the China Sea, and
from Borneo and Celebes bv the Celebes Sea. Lat. 5" 32'— 19" 38
N. ; Ion. 117"— 126'' E.
The group consists of about 1200 islands, of which Luzon, Mindanao,
Palawan, and Mindoro, are the largest. The area and population are
variously estimated; but probably the former is about 114,000 sq. m.,
and the latter about 6,000,000. The area of the Spanish portion amounts
to 52,148 sq. m., and the pop. to 4,320,000. The islands are of volcanic
formation, and numeious active volcanoes exist in the mountainous
regions. Being situated within the range of the monsoons, the climate
is moist, and hurricanes are frequent. The high temperature and abun-
dant moisture produce a luxuriant vegetation, the character of which is
not very different from that of Malaysia generally. The tobacco raised
here is of the finest description, and the cigars of Manilla have obtained
a wide celebrity, while sugar and rice are extensively exported. The
mineral products ai-e abundant, comprising coal, sulphur, alum, mag-
I
62 7
iiesia, aT:il Ttinrtile ; and the fiiinn, ivliich in general resembles IhaX df
the ether islaiula of Mnlayeio, embraces foies, gazelles, mnnkeya, and
crocodiles. The aboriirines sre of divor« origin, but are, for tlieinoBt
part, Malays fuiil Oceanic Neoroes, The Tagaia and eleven other dia-
lects are spoken, while the relieion is partly Mohammedan and partly
CfarifltJan. Next to Cnba, the Philippines form the most valuable of the
Spaaiah foreign poBuessions. They were dlacovered by the illnatrious Por-
tuguese navigator Magellan, lailingniiderthellagDf Spain, in 1521, in ths
coune of the Hrat circnmuav^tion of the globe. It was iJit itarch fer
ipica that led to this discovery, as well as to the more splendid achieve-
loeiits of Columbus and de Gania ; and yet, fortunately for themselTes,
they produce ve apices. The flrst land that Magellan made, after gnitting
the ■western shores of AniBrien, was the port of Batnan, in the ialniid
Mindanao. From this he sailed to Zehu, where he planted the tenuis,
sprinkled a little water on its king, and thus imagined himself u hiving
e.itablished the Christian religion. Hartng accepted ■ ohallenge from Uie
Stty prince of Mactan, Marian, wiUi Utty other Spaniards, entered the
IR with a host of the natives, when, being deroyed into a marsh, the
great navigator, with six of his companions, lost their lives. The rest
escaped, and, sailing in a S.K direction, discovered the Moluccas.*
Manilla, on the south-west coast of Luzon, is the capital of the Spanish
possessions in the East. Its population amonnts to 15,01)0, and its coni-
marce witb JurliA, Oiina, America, Spain, and Great Britain, is extensive.
111. MICHONBSIA.
Micronesia, formerly reckoned a part of Polynesia, comprises the
X.K section of Oceania, coneiatinK of ^^b numerons groups of
small iatnnds which stud the North Pacific Ocean from the equator
to lat. 28° N., and from the Philippine Isles oa the wast to the
Sandwich Isles on the east Area, 10,000 si^. m. ; pop. 250,000.
Except Hawaii, in the Sandwich gronp, they are of very small dimen-
sions, of moderale elevotion, and either of coralline construction or sur-
rounded by coral reefs. The climate is salnbrtous and agreeable, being
tempered hy cool breezes from the ocean, while the vegetation is gor-
Reoua in the ortrenie. The natural prodnctions comptiaa the bread-fruit
tree, cocoa-nut palm, banana, plantain, sugar-cane, taro-root, sod nume-
roos other edible root* and fruits. When fint visited by Europeans,
these islands, in common with those of Polynesia Proper, contained no
qnadru[ieds except hogs, dogs, and rats; but the sea teems with Ash,
which, in nome of the groups, conatitote the main food of the people.
The inhabitants belong ilmoat exclusively to the Malay race, are of a
liark-brown colour, use little ctothing, practise tatooing, and are aversa
to tegular industry. Their religion was formerly Polytheism, embracing
a belief in a future state ; and their priests, who also acted as physicians,
possessed an immense influence among tliem, as is evidenced by the sin-
golar institution of "Taboo." Whenever a priest chose to utter this
word over any object, the owner was obliged to renounce all further claim
to it ; if his hoUBe, for instance, was /ahoord, he durst not again enter it.
The numerous languages spoken in all the uplands of Polynesia and Miero-
neiia are dialects of the Malayan. Till European missionaries introduced
■ Ciawfotd'i ' Rlntoty lit the Indtnu Arr*
628 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
the Gospel the grossest barbarism, licentiousness, infanticide^ and canni-
balism prevail^ throughout all Micronesia and the South Sea Islands ;
but now myriads of the inhabitants are found " sitting at the feet of
Jesus, clothed, and in their right mind."
Divisions. — Micronesia embraces the following principal groups :
— The Bonin Islands, S.E. of Japan ; Ladrone or Marianne Islands,
E. of the Philippines ; Caroline and Pelew Islands, N.K of Papua ,
the Marshall or Iklulgrave Archipelago, E. of the Caroline Group ;
and the Sandwicli Islands.
The Bonin Isles, in the N.W. of Micronesia, and about 500 m. S.W.
of Yeddo, in Japan, consist of a group of 89 small islands, the largest ot
which are Peal and Kater Islands, at. the former of which English and
other Europeans, engaged in the whale-tishery, are settled. The northern
islands are inhabited by a Japanese colony.
The Ladrone or Marianne Isles, a group of 17 large and numerous
small islands belonging to Spain, are situated a1x)ut 1400 m. east of the
Philippines. Only 6 of them are inhabited, which contain a pop. of
about 5600. They are of volcanic origin ; their general aspect is beau-
tiful and picturesque, the soil very fertile, and the productions are cotton,
indigo, nee, sugar, and the plantain. The inhabitants are mostly of
Spanish descent, the native races having almost disappeared. The lai^est
island, named Gnahan, is forty leagues in circuit, and contains the town
Agaena, which is the cap., with a pop. of 3000. They were discovered
by Magalhaens in 1521, and called oy him Ladrones, signifying robbers^
owing to the thievish propensities of the inhabitants.
The Caroline and Pelew Islands, also termed the New Philippines,
commence with the Pelew Islands, 550 m. east of Mindanao in the Philip-
pines, and extend eastward over a space of about 2000 m. They were
discovered by the Spaniards in 1543, and named in honour of Charles II.
of Spain. The Carolines contain several smidl groups, as the Pelew,
Yap, Mortlock, and Duperry Isles. They are all of coralline formation,
except the Yap group, which is mountainous, and abounds in the pre-
cious metals. The climate is mild and agreeable, while the productions
resemble those of Micronesia generally. The pop., 29,000, are chiefly
Malays, skilful navigators, and subsist chiefly on fish and cocoa-nuts.
They belong nominally to Spain, but contain no Spanish settlement.
The MazBhall or Midgraye Archipelago, considerably to the £. of
the Caroline group, consists of several distinct groups of low coral islets,
about midway between Papua and the Sandwich Islands. The principal
clusters are named the Gilbert Islands, Radack Island, Ralick Island,
Piscadoras, Mulgrave Island, and the Marshall Islands. The climate,
productions, and inhabitante, do not differ from the rest of Micronesia.
The Gilbert Islands contain about 60,000 inhabitants.
Sandwich Islands, the most important group between Malaysia and
the American continent, are situated about 3000 m. W. of Mexico, and
about the same distance N.E. of Papua. The islands are fifteen in num-
ber, but only eight are inhabited, the chief of which are Hawaii or
Owyhee, Maui, Oahu, and Kauai. The area is estimated at 7630 sq. m.,
and the population, 69,800. WTien Captain Cook discovered the islands,
in 1778, he estimated the population at 400,000. The Sandwich Islands
are all high, steep, mountainous, and of volcanic formation. Hawaii, the
I
I
OCEANIA. 629
largest of ihe group, contains two atiipeDiloiis aummitH— vii., Moiveq
Kea. ]3,aW ft., anil Jlonna Loa, 13,650 It. The Ibrmur ie the loftiest
niinmit la Oceania, and tiie latt«r tbe higbeat active volcnno. Tha
elimata is mild and ialubrious ; mean temperature, 76° Fah. Tht
range of tlie thenmimeteT is very email, the raiaa are tdodernte, and in
Seneral the conntry is one of tlie healthiest on the globe. Gold has been
iacovered in Hawaii, and salt in Oaha. Wheat ia raised in tJie uplunda;
and in the valleys, coflbe, sugar, cotton, taro-root, arrowroot, cocoa,
bi«ad-Iniit, and variDnB Enropeon and West Indian Iruits. The natives,
iiho belong to the ligh^coluured Malay stock, are a mild, docile, im-
provable race, who have very readily adopted the manners and cnstoms
of civilised life. Their language veiv cloaely resenihlea thosa of TatiitJ and
New Zealand; it was iltst reduceil tosiviitten foi'tn liy the Atuerican
roissionaries, and contains only twelve letters— viz., five vowels and seven
conaonante. In 1819 the king publicly abaliahed idolatry, and embraced
the Christian faith. Since then the Scriptures have been printed in the
native tongue, churches and schools have been hnilt, and conatitntional
^oremment eatahlished. The islands are well aituated for trade, being
in the route between America and China, and conatant communication ie
maintained with San Francisco and New Zealand. A treaty of friendabip,
commerce, and navigation between her Majesty the Queen of Great Britain
and the King of tlie Sandwich Islands waa signed at Honolulu in 1861,
Honolnln, in the island Oahu, is the capital and principal port ; popula-
IV, POLTNESLY, oit SOUTH SEA ISLANDS.
Polynesia forms the S.E. part of Ocennia, embracing the n
■rchipela^oa and ialands aouth of the equator, and lying between
AnertwIaaiB and the 110th degree of W. longitude. Area estimated
at 13,000 an. m. ; population, 300,000.
For on account of its general features, natural productiona. rare of
people, reh'gion, and languages, aeo under "Micronesia," the cbaracter-
iatlca of which are almost identical with those of Polynesia,
DiTiRroNB.— Beginning at the W. eitremity, the following am
the prineipal groupa ; — the Fiji lalanda ; Samoa or Navigators
Islanda ; Tonga or Friendly lalanda ; Hervej or Cook's Islanda ;
Society Islands ; Aastral Islands; Low Archipelago; the Marquesas;
and Easter Island.
riji or Titi Islands,- A yrnnp of about 500 aniall ialands, 1900 m.
N,E. of Sydney. The area is estimated at 803* sq. m., and the popula-
tion at 148,000. Some of the islands are mountainous, and all of them
are suppoaed to be of volcanic origin. Tha natives are Papuans, a race
which does not extend farther east, and liencs the islauda might with
greater propriety be classed under Melanesia. Many of the natives have
been converted to Christianity through the labours of Weeleyan mission-
tries, but the remainder piactiae cannibalism and human sacrifices.
They were annexed to the British Crown in October 1871, The climate la
" opical and moiat. They produce nandalwood, together with fruits of
uiona kinds, cocoa-nut oil, and anowrobti while the sugar-cane, cotton.
630 POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.
and tobacco have been introduced iivith advantage by English and Ameri«
can settlers. Capital Suva, formerly Levuka.
Samoa, or Navigators Islands, are situated about 450 m. N.E. of the
Fiji group : area estimated at 1162 sq. m. ; population, 35,000. They are
mountainous and of volcanic formation, but surrounded by coral-reefs.
The soil is rich, the surface densely wooded, and the productions similar
to those of the neighbouring groups. The inhabitants are Malays, and
were very ferocious till Williams, the missionary, visited them in 1830,
when many of them embraced Christianity. They are now fast advancing
in civilisation.
Tonga, or Friendly Isles, S.E. of the Fiji Isles, consist of three
clusters, of which the Tongataboo group is the largest ; area, 190 sq. m.,
pop. 25,000. They were discovered by Tasman in 1643, but received
their collective name from Cook, on account of the hospitality shown him
by the natives, who, however, are now known to be deceitful and treach-
erous. The first missionaries sent here were massacred, but of late years
others have met with considerable success. Cocoa-nut oil is almost the
only important export.
Harvey or Cook Islands, E. of the Friendly Islands, embrace the scat-
tered islands of Raroton^a, Atiu, Maugeia, and several others, nearly all
of them lofty and volcanic. They were discovei-ed by Cook in 1773 ; but
Rarotonga was first made known by the missionary Williams, who
laboured here with singular success. The population, who are estimated
at 10,000, are of the Malay race.
Society Islands, N.E. of the Hervey group, consist of about 10 con-
spicuous isles, all of them lofty, volcanic, fertile, and surrounded by coral
reefs, against which the vast waves of the Pacific break with terrific gran-
deur. Area, 705 sc^. m. ; pop., 14,000. Tahiti, the '* gem of the Pacific,"
is extremely beautiful, contains moimtains 7000 ft. high, and clothed to
the summits with a rich and luxuriant vegetation. The exports consist
of pearls, pearl shell, cocoa-nut oil, sugar, and arrowroot Tahiti was
forcibly taken possession of by the French in 1843, who now claim a
protectorate over this group, together with the Gambler and Wallia
Islands. They were discovered by Quiros in 1606, but received their name
from Cook, in honour of the Boyal Society, by whom he was sent out in
1769 to observe the transit of Venus. It was to the Society Islands tiiat
the first messengers of the Gospel to Polynesia were sent, and from their
shores numerous missionaries have sailed to the neighbouring archi-
pelagos.
The Austral Isles, so called from their position S. of Tahiti, are lofty,
fertile, and beautiful, and contain about 1000 inhabitants, who closely
resemble those of the Society Isles.
The Tonamoton or Low Archipelago, E. of the Society group, consists
of a number of coral islands, slightly raised above tho siuface of the
ocean, rendering the navigation intricate and perilous. The Gambier
Islands, however, in the S. of the Archipelago, and Pitcaim Idand, f^
ther eastward, are high and volcanic, very few of them tie inhabited,*
the population of the whole prol^bly not exceeding 10.000. The entire
group IS now a French possession. Pitcaim Ifde is of intereit as fhe re«
fugo of the mutineers of the Bounty in 1789.'
The Marquesas lie 900 m. N.E. of Tahiti, and 2000m. S.B. of Hawaii.
Area, 746 sq. m.; pop. 4200. They are of volcanic fbnnation, with
mountains rising to a height of 5000 ft. ; while the interior is fntHe^ jfto*
ANTARCTICA. 63 1
ducing yams, pulse, cocoa-nuts, sugar-cane, and wild cotton. Tlie in-
Labitauts are Malays, and are the least civilised of all the natives of Poly-
nesia. They carry on war with the most savage ferocity, and practise
caimibalism. The French, since 1842, have occupied the two largest
inlands, and claim the whole group as a colonial teiTitory.
Easter Island, the most eastern of all the countless islands of tlie
Pacific, is situated in lat. 2T S., and Ion. 110° W., far to tlie S.E. of the
Gambier Archipelago, and upwards of 2(X)0 m. W. of the coast of South
America. Though only 1 2 m. long and 4 broad, this island has of late
excited much interest among geographers, on account of the numerous
relics of a former civilisation found on it, consisting of huge sculptured
stones bearing inscriptions now unintelligible, and well-executed statues
of immense size, immeasurably beyond the artistic skiU of the existing
natives, who do not differ from the generality of eastern PoljTiesians.
Similar traces of a superior race are found in other islands farther west,
and not remotely resembling the works of art found in Mexico and Peru,
especially on the islands of Lake Titicaca. Is it possible that Manco
Cdpac and his fellows crossed the Pacific through the islands of Poly-
nesia, Easter Island being the last stepping-stone across the boundless
world of waters ? The natives of Easter Island have a tradition that their
fathers, many hundred years ago, arrived here from Oparo in the Gam-
bler archipelago, 1900 m. distant ; and though tlieir present language
bears no resemblance to that of the ancient Peruvians, but is closely
allied to that of New Zealand and the Sandwich Isles, we know that
nations sometimes change their language, and we undei'stand that the
word "Titicaca" itself is pure Malayo-Polynesian.
ANTARCTICA.
Such is the name given to those extensive tracts of land, recently
discovered within the Antarctic Circle, by British, French, and
American navigators, and supposed to form portions of a great con-
tinent roimd the South Pole. As the leading features of this inhos-
Sitable region have been described in our remarks on the "Antarctic
)cean" (p. 26), we here merely remark, that should the explored
tracts be found to be continuous, and the existence of a Southern
Continent put beyond doubt, we shall then have seven continents —
viz., Europe, Asia, Africa, North America, South America, Australia,
and Antarctica ; and seven corresponding oceans — viz., the Arctic,
North Atlantic, South Atlantic, Indian, ^orth Pacific, South Pacific,
and Antarctic Oceans. If the world we inhabit was indeed created
and moulded by the divine hand, this remarkable fact is precisely
what we might have expected. Seven is ever^^where the number
denoting perfection. It is God's signature, stamped on the works of
His hands, signifying that the work is His, and that man must
neither add nor diminish. Scripture is full of it in its every section,
and Nature evinces innumerable traces of it. Thus we have seven
days' work of creation, seven days in the week, seven colours in the
sunbeam, seven notes in the diatonic scale, seven petitions in the one
perfect prayer, and all founded on the seven attributes of the Eternal !
INDEX.
ABBEEVIATIOSS.
^refc. AiTJiar«lSB"; B.Siy: C. Cope; Ck. Cliinoel; Eit. ErtmuT; J-r, Pridi; K,
Fort; G.amii CI. Glacier; CI. Greit ; Hd. Head ; Sr. HarbOQr; /. Islimd;
It. laluidB ; lith. lEtlimoi ; L. Lake ot Lodi ; I/r. Lowsi ; JT. Umutaia ; Utt.
UonBtaiDB ; P™, PonlnBula ^ Ft Point; iL Rlrer; Bd. Bound; Sir. BUail;
Tj. Tipper ; S. Bonth ; E. East ; JT. Kortb ; W. WmL
1, son Agneds R., ie
AwiR.ais
Adrianoipla, 'suT,
AgojaPV.'W
AUlKttg, 7B, S30, .l!.i-wilim. nS.45B
SOe. 312
{prsi"'
2M *«-,i,iiln,5r,7
Aar, Lr.. Gl., rs A^-^ii.ulvi., ir.l. M!
7a, m. sdi! 'isi
Am E,. m, 77. SOS A<=n™a.,]a.;W»
Aarau, SOS. 27i Arcm, 477
Aidin'. SW. 861, SSO
Aareao, BT2 Acnrinrton, ILT. 138
Asrfiuiui, BSD, !U Actmi, 2S2, :B8
ieean Baa. 07,310.
Aigi a.. 427
AieneB a, a07
Abaco I., Ml Acljncnmt, .',78. SOI
£giiia G., MB, BOl
Ain, 196
Abtia-Jamt M., Admid. 'J»9
i^l.,231
Ain R, S07
440, *» Acihil ad., JOB
£tollvl»B
Aiiu^ SOS. sit
Aintab. SOU
AblBvllle, 196, SOO, Achraj, L, IJO
«7i
Air. (67
mS A<.itei;i<=. UBS
AlbuR, ISB
AfrtPQtat.ieB
AhbeyfealB, ITS Achlrt I„ 601
AfonUwjrda.lSB
Alnlrie, 14B, 1»,
Al.(*rleli, IM, 17! . Aconcsgnn. STO.ME
AMo, ii, fl, 04.
100^ ^
AlitiUts - Oiuu, ^<'aiii. saa, 390
4a7-Eiii>t. 4B6-
Aire, IM, SOT, 208,
W^SM
AcrtDrAtk^MO,
Sonth, «4 - R
MB
Abdinu C. W
C«it~l, 4BB, wo
Al™ R. 141
AiMnToii,ia»
Aftim R., 380
Aire (Haws) B.,
Agablf, 408
Abmd«n,l«,IlilI.
Adujir., MO, ml
SSd^ 407, 4M
Alans, 1»9
Ae«giiA.aas
AisoB R, ax
Agd«, 197. M7
All, IBS, 202, Mg
IM. 140, ISl. US
Agai., 197. Ml, i07
All- U - ctiapalla.
AbBTlaldj, IM, IH
Agarahana, SJ7
SM^iSB, Ui
Aghrini. lU
wb"" ''■
AKincoiut. 19^ IDD
Abvs<i^ iig, ui,
idjiuci, lies. MS
AgDoR.Ml
An^iiai. son, sen
lU
Ad.li.IDb., 479
A«DtU.S6S
Akab*. SOO, BS4
AtmuaOir. IM, IH
AdmirMt)' 0 , BOT
AgmtR, 307
AkabaQ..SIU
AdiulmltyJs.HD
Agi«,«S5,88B.*)0
A^'?^M7,'m9,
Akamai., ssi. 324.
in,lM
SIS
Ahii«dini,U«.J*0,
AdonrK..76,MT
Ab.talMl»L..B7«
AdraT I7B, IM
Agiia.tw)
Ssr/j?-'"
AdnR, IbS
Agaw Callentu,
Alniy>T,4T^«n
AdmufU G., sot
»1, Ul ^
Ak«i.lM.*«
AluDU. iSl
Aluaa R., 11^
, ALIB, 89, 2(H, !»,
ira, S68
, Alps, Rhsetlui, 980
Amlwch, 119, 1S3,
138
Aiuiner Bee L., SSI
AniDo'rB,,421, ^^S
AluoD R., SJg
Alba, 181. KM
Altuuieu, i;«. 186
Altaai*, to, 7S, »1.
AlbiDO, £83, S30
Al^™, 178
AlgeriB, 91.
ATglete. *02. i
, Alea4B.,43»
AlFuna. 1T6. 1
Alba^ds B., 1S«
Alb«n.o«Pt.,M
Albert Ntuzi, 440, .
nstardsm, 74,211,
AnagnL. 283, 283
■ ahliac M., 6M,
Allnhabad, £82,384,
AJala de toi a
nlea, 17S. IM
Alula la It«l,l
Alcoy R., Igft
Aldan Uts., S60
Aldboroogb, 141
Aide R.. 141
... jnR, 138,140
AUmdals, 143
' AUer R., SOI
Almsrift O.,
inuD U., U
'i'tH..3oe
R9UU.,31,MS,
iiToranto,(«
iTsr, lis, 12S,
werra.BlM*
. AsdroB (W. IIIdlH)
AuditJar, 1T8, 1U
3 Andnn, 107, KIT
Azidoie B,, lOT
Auuab, SOB
AngenDaui R., 73
Anglta R., 311
1 AngltMk L,M,B1,
' "■ '"0, lie, ISl,
I AniMbiUT, 110, 140
AmherS I,. 6M
^^
IKDES. 635 J
ApuM. 570, Ml
ArgI>hR.3S4,3ia AjI^Q,aJ.. 320, 33» ■
■ Ang™.lKI,18i
Arurt R. eul
Argolis, 299
Asaph (at). luT
Anlinlt - Bsraborg,
AqnilB, !S2, SST,
Acgolis a., 301
Asben, 487
T3, 24!
iM
Aigoa, 290, 300
Anbidt-Qeuigu, ^42
AqnU^ia. Ml
Argun R., 421
AMbGir, SOB
Ascbatrenberg, 2S0
Anh8mbjrR.,flul
Aisbia, 3B7
A^^ruoo. 1*6,152
Asbantee, 473
Arabto Sffl, 84S
Argyro-KiutrQ,ao7,
Ani™tHM..4ia
ArablMan, 359, SM,
311
Ashbortou. 116.140
Arb.110. 882.589
Aihbj-de-la-Zaiiuh,
Aracati. iSt, aoi
AUCB. 385, 636
lis, 149
Ankobu/tSP
AritgB, 19*
Aabrord, 115
Arlspo. 631, 662
Arafnn Bei, 620
Arimaa. 536
Arkalg U, 16»
117, 196, 138
AuMflsl*. ISB
Araktun, 3K, 387
Arkansas, 638
Asia, 68. 62, 345
Annaloe R., lU
Anibluui MU., BJ»,
Asia MLdor, 90, 01
Ad pan, 145, 180
4M
Arkat, 382. am. 404
AakeatDD,166, 172
Aral Sen L-. 352
Atkli^ngrt. 63. 67.
Askrigg, 115
AntiapoliB.eSB, Ml
Aralsk (Fort), J 89,
72, 76, 73
Asps, 173, 13S
430
ArkiliO, 469
AspinnniJl, 676,676.
AnaeflfV IflS, 209.
Aranyos E., 9S4
Arklow, 164, 172
301
MS
Ararat Mt.,34fl
ArbUadDR,185
Aspropotamo B.,
AnowyL., TT
809
Annj., 7*
ArloD, 71.'2I6'
AnaoiikK.IIII)
Annomy, IBf, 20T
Artd'sMSof
Armagli, 103. 163.
A^?i,°7}''3S9, 921
AnapMh, 350, Ma
Atmenfa, SS, SSO,
A..infe, 478
ai.^
ABSoasn, 461, 453,
Almenli Uta., 649
Ant B„ 141
Arbroath, 14a, isa,
AriBentitroa, lOfl,
Anlalii,««AnHoch
Asuncion, 576
AdtalD. Hi. U9
Are a, 90S
Amhaim, 74, 222,
Aerar.451. 462,461
A^rotm (Odeui),
AreadlB, 299
ArchidonB, 179, ISA
AnioR,T6. 289
an."...,-
Anl^otlc. 631
AiChipetego. W-
Amabctg, 2S0. 963
Aatrsbaa, 871, S711,
Ante R., sue
AmBtadt, 242, 269
Antequim, 178
^&hSo
AwlMU, 73, 949,
ABtrakton, 76, 321,
Aiiti™tlI.,BOS
— iiijriBTi, B7, aeo
An^Snii.. Ml
ArooDHlL.SBS
AaW™. 983
Atcns, i7B, 186
AnUocli. BM. m
Arctic (Ooean), 24
An)»iui,468
AntloquK £TS
ArparR.sas
Aannirtoa. 609, 691
ADtipndfla I„ «1B
ArifchB, 107
Arpino, 283; 230
Atacama, 589, 692,
AnliauisM.. 6711
Ardtche R, 907
ArttneaR.2U5
690, 601
Anti-I»uni5M..3411
Arra B,. 173
AbbuaB..481
aE^°95'is"i66
Ateasa, 982, 290
AulKm.'lSa
Anllla r', 135
AlBsb. 461
AntWMp. 74. SIS,
Ar»Dnio»I..S5
Ath, 215. 226
^Kmseo
Arra.. 74, 108, 900,
Atbabaicali., 509
225
Atbanry. 165, 171
^^^^3B3, ISO
Arre R. 907
AtbeiH, 63, 298,10J
ArrlteeR,207
^BBuinM,' Uta,
An™ia..li81
Athlone, 164, 167.
^^pKSSS
AnqulpC B95, 536.
Ar™iiR,306
171
670 ^
M Allogbony
Arelio, 2S2, 285.
Athy, 164, 167, 17«
Ana 0, BPd R,
Atiul.,6iri
Ap|:SDUll, iBS, 173,
ArgeDSe R, 20!
AtUinion, 636
m ' '
ArgonUm. 1B6, 406
ARoli, 74
Atlanu, BSi, 641
^^^«by, liT, IS8,
ArgmUnB..906
ArgBntMO, 0,, !»S
ArtabJ R, 208
Atlanllo (Oi:«aD)
^^CDimnoK R.
AnnraClne CooMe-
Atlai M,.44i),4M
^^Hl
taUoD, M8, 605
Amiidel, 116. 140
^^Eb*roD.C.^
A>8li>b, iU
Arv8L,,93l
Altab, 478, 481
■l
4rg*b.m..S4a
Ant a. aos Aiiec a« U,v» ^
Aactalnlecli,!
161, m "'
Auobtennnchtj,
Ane R. sez
Augsburg. SSO.iEl,
Auatnilia, M, SOS—
N., 603, 804— a.,
M3,(01— W.,fl03,
AuBtraliut Alpa,
Avellino, SSi, !
Ajleabuiy,)18,130,
Aylesbam. 116, 141
Ajr,146,'u», 160
Ayr R, ISO
Ayrablre, 100, 145,
dEn-Baden, 160,
tiDii, ITB, i«e
>n (Lui&rk), K ,
,n (Linlithgow)
Bagunaro, £01
Bagbdod, aso,
3«3, 3B1
B^mas ' Is.,
' .Bahiad'Avein
Jl-Merdj L.
Baireut^ £50, S
, Baja. aS7, iU
Bakileliati, '
I 4fll, m
Bikchi-Seral,
BalbriggM.lMilJl
[eB.. 4SllBaIilo^, 119
ISO, 3S0 BAle or Bul«, 9T2,
Babel'mude
'BMe-Campagne,?r
. Bale4rei&,, 67,17
la Mt«., 68
■ Balfron, I_.
BalfrnSi, 871, 171,
BabjlonTsM-'sei, ' BtliL, AM
3m BiU™ K., IM
BtcehlgUane B., Btakali llta., »,
BaIljiiuloe,16S,]
BallinfloiTTB., 1
BallycMtle'B.. ijl
Ballymataon, 16^
Dollmaliinoll, IM,
Balliahann™, KB,
186, 171
Balinoral, IM, 1U,
Balaamo, flOl
Balta, 9S1, 3U
Baltic Sen. or, M7
Baltinoro, 535, 5S8
BaltinEltiBB,164,172
BaiDberg,'2!)0,'ltli,
Buibmy. Hf IH^
HI
Banolioiy^l« IM
BasdaB, IH, m
Buff, lU, US, U>
BiolIUfli& ML IH
^ofc Ml, 4H
^^
INDEX. 637 1
f &iik-aL<ndl..SOS
Buingatoke, lie.
Bedfoid, ua. 130. 'Bengal, 3B2, 3S3, ■
Bunock R., 15S
Basle, m. S72, 273
BedfotdLoTel. 121
Beagalflr, 333, 387,
Bmbookbum, HB,
Baaa 8tr., 607
Bedford, How, 63S,
4M
181, IM
Baasmo, 2S2, 334,
Bengali, (62
BMtrr, 184, 1T2
m ' '
Badfo'tdshiro, IIB,
&:&■•■■"•
KaSL'S"'
Bas9efn,4!l4
Buse Terre, BBS
Bent<a°uBf, 4S1,
Barbawmmsa, 601
^Sar.S82,M3,S84,
BubldoH I., »1.
141
Benlcarlo.lTa
B^ai.le<,*3fl,
Basaes Alpts, 1C3
Basses tyria^es,
Behriiig Btr., S02,
Benin, 478, 481
Benin, Bight of, 143
Bs^^'e»
Barbutro, ITS. ISS
BasBorah, 3W, SS3
BarbiUR., IBS
Beilan'Past. 850
Be™r,'!8a
B«-b.ta R. 188
Batarfa, 104. 624
Beist, 807, 311
BubDdaL lies
Batli, llfl. 124, ia»
Buby, SSB
B.th(Al.;»r.),'S3t
Beirout, 9Sll! 362,
Bei^r. 451, 452
Bum 41S.4S3
Baths R, 416
Berbers, IM. 197
Buceloim, 176,179,
Bathang, 418. 421
Be\llAha{Bethte-
Bathgate, 145, 150,
hmH, 360, S63
BerdllciieT, S2§
Birrelonii rVenc!-
Beith.U,^160
Batettjo a, sei
Mia), S7S, 677,
Bathonit(Afr.),430.
BersilnaB.asa
470. 181
Budlmn, SS2. 40t
Bnthnrst (Aoatr.),
BemmD, 282, 2B4,
ItanlMT L. 1S4
601. eoe
Bela.a7S.a79, 381
Bunmr. SSa. 334,
Bathuret C. 606
Beibo R, 290
Df°nt09R 186
sai»,4afi
Baton Honga. 636.
Beled-el-Jered, M!
Becgen.asi, B.is.aio
Bufleu C, S6, SOI
S^hTsso
Batoiun, 4S6, 476
BelfMt,''"63, 166,
^^'^^\^^^^'
B«lrins, 116, 110
Battle,' 116
Belfast (iu5t«lla).
Hatkol. 41 S
Berguei, 126, 205
B«k<.lL,4ia.4E8
BauJ. iV, 206
Belfiat OJ. States),
BerJB, 178, lee
B*r-la^BO, 199, we
Bantien, 212, 213.
Berkeley, 118, ISO.
Buletta. m 287.
Belfast, r». 189, m
Ml
Bavaria, 2SD
Be fort, 19S, 207
Berkeley Avon R..
BinneD, MB, SIS,
Ba, I8,; 65a
Belgi A 211
103
Bin»n9CuUe,liS.
BaJtrfS; S2S
Belgrade, 75, 281,
Il», 140
Bayeui, 196, 206
308. sin
Berks, lie, 123
B«n«il, iO, m.
BaToimB, 197, Ml,
Berlin, 238,240,202
4S8
207
Benandas It., S(I5,
Binuler, lis, 121.
BsyflB R., WT
BellB ial^SOl
KM!,,.
Bernard, St, Oreat,
Barnstaple, IK,
BeliliSi«o''' "l",
M., 273, 274
m,]W
Ba»da,B8B,»a7.4M
BBlIIil*oii*,2Ta.2»
BeSbuVg.sia.Sfli
B^™;.,^..,,
Bear (Qt)I,., SOS
Bear 1., 160
Bellot Stt.. S02
Ballnoo. JS2. 2ltt
Bern (Swlt^), 74,
£S5!^^"'
BeauciUe.lM. SOI,
Boli«r.llT.137.142
Ball, Great, SSI
Benie (O'enniinyJ,
Barrliead, US, IflO
swr-
Belt, LltUi; 281
Berne R., 102
Birriar - BeeT of
Beltnrbet. 18S, in
neniue Alp», 174
AuMralla, MB
BmuIj firlli, IM
D>.-t, I,,i„on^ «..
Barni. Pt„ SOS
Beaiiic,.:' -■■ ■ -
Berm, 473
B.m«mr'.."os
bA"m..
Barton, US, 141
Benie. Ui, isa
BtTlidh B., 201
Ger>lea.,ISfl
a.an.eoi
B«.-|.-
Dortn-Jk. North.
^^H BbiD. 1S8
US, H3.1S9
^Knnt<R..390
lti'r««k-.m-Tw««rt,
^K« 1$. mi
tl
B
B
Ilr, " iokillli^ m,
638
INDEX.
Besanfon, 198, 202,
207
Besos R, 186
Dessarabia, 321
Bethany (Africa),
488
Uetimne, 196, 208
BetUs, 859, 361
Uetwa R , 405
Beurre R., 208
Beveland, N., I.,
223
Beveland,8.,I., 223
Beverley, 115, 121,
141
Bewdley, 118, 139
Beyerland I., 223
Beziers, 197, 201,
207
fihamo, 401
Bhawalpur, 383,
387, 404
Bhopal, 383, 405
Bhotan, 383
Bhi^J, 383, 387, 404
Bhurtpur, 383, 384,
387, 405
Biafra, 478, 481
Biafra, Bight of, 443
Biala R, 261
Bialystok, 261, 321
Bias R, 404
Bicester, 118
Bidar, 383, 387
BidassoaR,185
Bideford, 116, 139
BidefordB., 135
Biel — see Bienne
Bielefeld, 239, 262
Bielev, 320, 329
Bielitz, 261
Biella, 282
Bielopol, 321, 328
Bielozersk, 329
Bielukha M., 350
Bienne, 272
Bienne L., 276
Biese R, 262
Bifemo R, 290
Biggar, 145, 159
Biggar R, 159
Biggleswade, 118,
130, 141
Bighorn M., 506
Bihe, 481
Bijisk, 429, 433
Bikanir, 383
Bilbao, 176, 177,
180, 185
Bilma. 467
Bilston, 118, 128,
139
Biluchistan, 346,
878
Bimah R. 404
Jiinaaco, 282
Binche, 215, 225
Bingham, 117. 142
Bingley, 115, 141
BiobioR,592
Biomeborg,319,327
Birkenhead, 117,
125, 138
Binna, 346, 401
Birma, British, 382,
887
Birmingham, 118,
128, 142
Bimi, New, 473,
481
Biroutchd, 320
Birr, 164, 167, 172
Biscarosse L., 208
Biscay Bay, 67, 204
Biscaya, 176, 177
Bischwlller, 198
BisenzioR, 289
Biserta, 462, 463
Bishnmati R, 404
Bishop - Auckland,
115. 120. 142
Bishop - Stortford,
118
Bishop's Castle, 117
Bishop's Waltham,
116, 140
Bisley, 118
Bissao, 470, 481
BissaoL,470
Bistrica R, 328
Bistritz, 257, 2t?4
Bistritza R., 261
Bitolia,307,309,312
Biting, 328
Black Forest M.,
252
BUckMts.,506
Black Sea, 67, 310,
326, 348, 365
Blackadder R., 158
Blackburn, 117, 126,
138
BlackfoTd,l46
Blacksod B., 169
Blackstairs Mts.,
170
Blackwall, 131
Blackwater R
(Eng.), 141
Blackwater R
(Ire.), 172
Blagoveschensk,
421 429
BlainI 197, 206
Blair-Atholl, 146,
159
Blairgowrie, 146,
159
Blaise R, 205
Blanc, Le, 199, 206
Blanc, Mont, 69,
204, 273
Blanco C, 440, 505,
569
Blandford, 116, 140
Blanes, 179, 186
Blantyre, 145, 160
Blasket I., 169
Blavet R, 206
Bleibach, 256, 264
Blenheim, 616
Bleone R., 207
Blewfields, 657
Blithe R, 142
Bloenifontein, 439,
485
Blois. 199, 203, 206
Bloody Foreland C,
169
Blue Mts., 564
Blyth, 114, 142
Blyth R, 142
Boavista I., 441
Bober R, 261
Bobrinetz, 321
Bobrov, 328
Bobruisk, 321, 328
Bochnia, 256, 261
Bodarg R , 172
Bode R, 262
Boden See L., 77,
276
Bodmin, 116, 124,
139
Bodrog R, 264
Boffin L., 172
Boglipur, 404
Bognor, 116, 140
Bogola Pass, 418
Pogotd, 568, 571,
576, 601
Bogragh M., 170
Bohemia, 256
Bohmerwald Mts.,
69, 252
Bohou, 478
Boi86 City, 507, 536,
541
Bois-le-Duc, 221,
223, 225
BojadorC, 440
Bojana R, 75, 211
Bokhara, 425, 427
Bolan Pass, 350
Bolbec, 196, 205
Bolbec R, 205
Bolgrad, 808, 812
Bolivar, 576
Bolivia, 568, 688
Bolkhov, 320, 829
BollinR,188
Bologna, 282, 286,
29U
Bolor Tag^ Uts.,
348,849
Bol8ena,288, 280
Bulsena L., 291
Bolton, 117, 120, 188
Bombay, 382, 38S,
386, 390, 404
Bombay I., 888
Bona, 462
Bonacca I., 558
Bo'ne8s,145,150,159
Bonga, 496
Bongo, 478, 481
Bonhill, 146
Bonifacio Str., 67,
288
Bonillo, 178, 186
Boninls., 628
Bonn, 239, 242, 263
Bonn C, 440
Bonnet R, 171
Bonny, 478, 481
Boom, 215, 225
Boothia Felix, 502
Boothia G.. 502,505
Boothia I., 505
Bordeaux, 74, 197,
201. 207
Borghetta, 282
Borgo Pass, 261
Borgo-San-Donino,
282, 290
Borgu,473
Borisocane, 165
Borkum I., 223
Bormida R., 290
Borneo I., 229, 622,
625
Borneo R, 625
Bomesga R, 185
Bomholm I., 66, 231
Bomu, 473
Borodino, 320, 323,
329
Boroughl>Tidge,115,
141
Borovitchi, 820, 827
Borovsk, 820, 329
Bosa,282
BOse R, 262
Bosna R, 264, 812
Bosna-Serai,75,807,
308. 312
Bosnia, 807
Bosporus, 67, 810,
880
BosqR, 306
Boston, 115. 121,141
Boston (n.&), 534,
587,540
BoBworth, 118
BoBEormeny, 264
Botany B., 607
Bothnia 0., 67, 326,
888
Bothwell, 145, 160
Botsohetye M., 001
260
BotaohanT, 806, 814
BotMaTwOb My
891
H IKDBA-. 63!) 1
■ Brniches^m-Rhniie,
BmTal,,44l |Briti5liGuIiiM,B88, ]Bnanim, 380 fl
Budweia, 260, MS
BtiiipUivlHal.eail
BrBy'a, 172
Bruil. 03, 6SB. 5S0
aSN'i^irics,
Bnen Ajtb I„ 561
BooU^, isi"
bt^l m
BnenoBAyrai, 668,
Bonlogne, MB, SM,
Bteohln, 148, IBS,
671, S9S:001
906
96— lDdlt,03,3e2,
Biitruio, 635, 538.
Brecknocli. 110. 134
Bourbon - Viuidae,
BrockBock Beaoup
Bub a.. 328
M.,13fl
Bdien, S9l'
Uiiik B.. 338
Bnihjim, llfl, 140
alSk^Fiordlass'^
BoBE^, IM, 20T
Bred™ 321, 's as,' 225
Broad lL« M„ ISB
B»y». », «.,
Bredon Hill-. 13fl
BreBlBB.,488
Brodick. 143
BulKUia, SD8
■^nroe, 115, l«
Bnllu, 178, 18S
^KuTD. R, i4U
Ui*men,7S,'23r,S43,
Bulllsti™, 41B
^HraraL.filD
Bromley, US
Biunm, 371
^■Sauiu, 173, 474,
Brent R, 140
Brom»gii..B,lia
Bmiu R, 406
■ iBlT
BrsDla R., 291
Bromyard, 117, 138
Bundl, 383, 485
, Bontom.6R.m7
Brentford, 110, 132.
Broutlyn, 636, 687,
BunBaV,li6.141
BooaHie B., 307
SSSi.'lt.Z
B^^ea'n' 'sob
BnJBrtoy, 117, 135,
BucilHB, 238'
Bundl R.seO
a0WD10rt,14»_
l^^ESDi,^ as3, m,
BroSnsR, 172
Bnrieklnk.dOS
BroBna,LOHer, a.,
Bun. R, HI
J b^h"^''
BroBlau,T3,338,!lO,
Bnrg, ssb, 262
k. BailB. l«t, m
Btotbock B„ 159
Burgaa, BOB, 311
|,SSfS,.»
Bret B., 141
Br™ghtyFerrj,146
BniBaaG.,310
BiuglieHd, 140, 15^
fBc^i^sei, ait
"ZtK'sw.''yis
BiirSen,271
■^saS,.,,;,
Brown wEuj M.,
■"?,%"■• ■»■
ssa^'d"
r1dBB.,17a
Burkelon, A04. 605
Bmclisal,'260, 2e3
Bm«UmoU,»l
140 "'
Br.,= B.,13s'
BBr^tngton.5a4,536.
B«ch-y-PwU C„
H.idBeorA«»n,140,
Braff, 1»6
HBCklny, ue. 111
Bridgo Town, 602.
Bnul— (M'Bomeu
BMlej. 117, 136.
BmdMott.aW
663
Bnmo, 76, 366, 267,
Bndiwka R, euB
BnmtialBDd, 145,
Bnidfocd, llti, 121,
12S, ISB^
Braoswick, 336,342,
Brtdgoport. 035
Bnulfom, Qt, llfl.
Bruniwick, Kew,
Burrow Hd.. 150
m, 1S9
124, 138
60S, 518. 618
Bmea, 76, IBO, 182,
BrldUnston, IIS,
Barton-™ -Trent,
IM
Bngsno., », 180.
Brld|«rt, lie, 124,
310. 225
BurtoE'i Dl«co». Id
ia. IBS
140
ACrtcB, 4«Q
B«h6R,3«l
afSK.
BiuKi LiUwikl,
Bury. 117. 13S, 138
BniilOY, 204, 308,
^K\. JSl ^^^ ^
florJ'atRtonlld-,
BrieML, 77,270
116. 1J2, 141
Brigiva R 311
BrigktoD, llE, 133,
BaarAao,'a»i.'i9V
Bntcm 232, 201
liai,SS2, 383,3811,
BoBtin. 371, 372,
406
140
Buohirut, n. m.
m
^BBIn-lB.Cooitf,
ssawK*
SO3.SI0
BiuhiniUB, 163. 171
BH..fcsbius, 7i 2«.
DuHto-Awao, 1IB2.
^■flhlDtree. lis, 141
BrlslHuit, em. &<5
SOS
H^'^n ?1
BrteDiiiuiR.,(lll8
Bn,>Jtla«eti. 145,168
auiBUidAmin.140,
Bri>t<il,Ila,lt(l,U(l
Brli>Uiiai.S.XM6
BrUtul thllDflQl.
BoekK, 140. 1113,10V
Buddnsbuu. 118,
^^^onburg. m.
130,1*1
Butkowlnt. Ssa
nnlwrMit. 1*4, lU
^^EdOD, 116, 111
IBS. m
BurJU, 118. 130
B„wun. 117. 127,
^^Kd..B.UL.i;u
BfiWlD, K™, [,.
UmiK 7S. 3M. aw,
^^Kmh«n, m
W
g_.
640
INDEX.
Byron C, 607
Bzura R., 261
Gabenda, 478
Gabes, 462, 478
Gabes O., 443, 464
Gabeza del Buey,
177, 185
Gabra, 178, 186
Cabra R., 186
Caceres, 176, 177,
185
Caceres R. , 185
Gachao, 405
Cader IdrisM., 136
Cadiz, 178, 181, 186
Cadiz B., 183
Caen, 196, 200, 206
Caermarthen; 119,
133, 139
Caermarthen B. ,
135, 139
Caernarvon, 119,
182, 136, 188
Caernarvon B., 136
Cagayan I., 626
Oagliari, 281, 284
Gahir, 165, 172
Cahirciveen, 164,
172
Cahors, 199, 204,
207
Cain R., 189
Cairngorm M., 157
CaimtoulM., 167
Cairo, 451, 461
Caistor, 115, 141
Caithness, 147, 155
Calabar, Old, 478
Calabar R., 481
Calabria, 282
Calahorra, 179, 186
Calais, 196, 200, 206
Calamata, 299, 300
Calami R., 208
Calasparra, 178, 186
Calataynd, 179, 186
GalavonR, 207
Calcutta, 93, 346,
851, 382, 384, 404
Calder R., 141
Calder, N., R, 160
Calder, 8., R., ^60
Calder, W., R, 138
Caldera, 592, 601
Caldew R., 138
Caledonia, New, I.,
603, 619
California, 536
California G., 505
California, Lower,
551
Callan, 164, 172
Callan, Mount, 170
Callander, 146, 159
CtHiao, 685, 586, 601
Callen R, 171
Callington, 116, 139
Calmina, 557
Calne, 116, 140
Caltagirone, 283
Caltanisetta, 283
Galuso, 282, 290
Calvados, 196
Calvo, 601
Cam R., 141
Camaroons Mts.,
440
Cambay, 404
CambayG.,389,404
Cambodia, 401
Cambodia C, 348
Cambodia Mts., 349
Camborne, 116, 124,
139
Cambrai, 196, 200,
208
Cambrian Mts., 68,
136
Cambridge, 118,
129, 141
Cambridge (U. 8.),
534, 537, 540
Camden, 535, 540
Camel R., 139
Camelon, 146, 159
Camerino, 282, 290
Cameta, 581, 582,
601
CamUn R, 172
Campana, 178, 185
Campbelton, 146,
152, 160
Garopeachy, 552,
553
Campobasso, 282,
290
Campsie Fells, 157
Canada, Dominion
of, 94, 518
Canaries Is., 179,
183, 441
Canary Grand I.,
183
Cancalle, 197, 206
Cance R, 207
Candia I., 67, 808,
310
Cane R., 404
Canea, 308
Canicatti, 283
Gann R, 141
Cannes, 198, 208
Cannock, 118, 142
Cannstadt, 250, 263
Ganoles R., 186
Canso G., 502
Gantabrian Mts., 68
Gantabuii, 401, 405
Cantal, 199
Canterbury, 115,
122, 140
Canterbury (New
Zeal.), 616
Cantin G., 440
Canton, 861, 407,
414, 421
Canton R, 349
Cantyre, Mull, 156
Capatillas, 559
Cape Breton I., 505,
520
Gape Clear I., 169
Cape Coast Castle,
477, 478, 481
Gape Cod Bay, 540
Cape Colony, 94,
439, 484, 485
Cape Fear R, 541
Cape Good Hope,
441
Cape Haitien, 562
Cape Town, 439,
485
Cape Verde Is.,
193, 441
Cape York, 607
Cappadocia, 350
Cappel, 276
Cappoquin, 164, 172
Capri I., 288
Capua, 282, 286, 289
Carabobo, 576
Caraccas, 568, 576,
577, 601
CarapellaR, 290
Caravaca, 178, 186
Caravaca R., 186
Caravaggio, 282, 290
Carbonara, 307, 311
Carbonara G., 288
Carbones R, 185
Carcajente, 178, 186
Garcans L., 208
Carcassonne, 197,
201, 207
Cardiff, 119, 134,
139
Cardigan, 119, 188
Cardigan B., 185
Cardiganshire, 119
Gardington, 130
Carey R, 139
Gariaco, 601
Caribbean Sea, 505,
509,601
Garignano, 282, 290
Garinthia, 256, 266
Gaijooee, 425
Carllngford, 171
GarlingfordB.,169,
171
Carlisle, 117, 126,
138
Garlow, 164, 167,
172
Oarlserona, 887, 840
Cirisbamik 840
Carlsruhe, 74, 250^
251, 263
Garlstad, 340
Carluke, 145, 160
Garmagnola, 281,
290
Garmona, 178, 185
Gamick Alps, 260
Camiola, 256, 266
Camsore Pt., 66,
169
Camtogher Mts.,
170
Carolina (N. and 8. i
535
Caroline Is., 628
Caronge, 272
Carpathian Mts.,
69, 260. 311
Carpentaria G., 607
Carpentras, 198, 207
Carran Tual, 170
Carrara, 282, 289
Garrickfeigus, 163,
166, 171
Carrickmacross,
168, 171
Garrick - on - Shan-
non, 165, 168, 172
Garrick - on - Suir,
165, 168, 172
Gamon R, 185
Cfarron, 146, 159
Carron L., 156, 159
Carron R, 159
Carson City, 536
CartR, 160
Cart, Black, R, 160
Cartagena (Spain),
178, 181, 186
Cartagena (Amer.),
576, 601
Cartage, 557, 558
Cartago M., 558
Cartmell, 188
Carvio-B^inoy, 196,
225
Gasal - Haggiore,
282, 290
Gasale, 281, 288, 290
Cascade Mts., 504,
606
Ga8CoR,640
Gaserta, 211, 289
Gashel,165,168,l72
Gaspe, 179, 186
Caspian Sea, 67,
826, 849, 362, 873
Cassandra O., 810
Gassano, 282, 290
Ca8sel,289.841,268
Gastel Fi«n8&fliM>,
262
Caatol Fuofi, SSr
I
CutBHumite, S&i,
lulleton (autb-
Cutro -111 Efti,
^t'j^ii'-j''
CnidAbw - 1« > ]
Celijgin, ITS, II
CIllUldnililEiir. i!
GoorgB-^ IS
CeDtraJ AraericI
CentnlAitiBlvei
Cson B„ !WT "
Cerignoli. 282, 2W
CoirgdoFotiwiU
CBiTOllalhsfoD.lS
CcrruB &., aat
OaiTin'M„"'2;(
Carvo R, 390
Ccioiis B., sea
Cuinack R., IM
Oetigue, BOB, SOI
>U
Cette, isr, 201, 20Y (
i08, MS t
Chiifd,"lfi. 138
^hMTonw' Infati-
mmrEntoR. ,20b, KOI
3baren
, Chltiki
ClurlM
iinniti R, 201
uuh R, 4M
C)i(asiie&keR,SO
Chahlre, IIT, 12S
Cbiir]
ChBriiulon (B. Cs-
, Cliatna Thierry,
Cluut(Ua,«0.4T(,
481
Ch>iereB(S
CliAk'ii, >g« KegTo- <
Chlul, 362
Cbiuco R. 288
GhiCBgo,' MO, is9.
It, lis, is;.
CWoliMlir H»r-
ChlGlins, 178, 1S8
~ ■ in Sbb I... 2S3
Chlcntl K, IM
"MM, 2S2, 290
Jhfgnecto Iith.,604
, Cblbiulias,MI7,Ul,
CluttjULMChfll
oDt, igs, IDS (
€bin)boniHiM..S70.
1 CblBii8eB.34«.3J7,
ua
tiiich»Ia..5M
uouiiiiiik. ITS. vm
^IS^rt:™'^, ,
".TB..~
a,L R.1W
ColnmWs (U. 3.x
668,670
5«,*0i
Chiiquito, SB!, AM
&)lDrabo. 03. Ml,
Chin6B6plila,MT
Chi,rorCol«,W3.
0rd« Ft.. 16T
Ching-tliig, 4*T,
272,273
CoaR.lBS
CoahDlia. Ul
Colonla. SOS, 301
ColDonaCBOl
Cii'ipg-^,!S1.*0T.
ChnraR.ui'
CliumetR.,142
Couua R, lai
Cnlomrto, 607, 5Sfl
108, in
CobUa,fl89.fl01
Colorado R, 041.
CUio-ng*!., 40T, 121
Chn»^ Arch., 410
Coblantt, 239, 24S,
Chinon, iM, aoe
Cieu. 178, ise
Colnrobl., Biitiali.
Chin-yum, «7.«1
Ciiioim sso
Cobn.rt,<5l
94, 51 a. £23
CUloggll. 282, 291
CobuTg,M2,a4S,2e3
ColunibtB. Dlrtriot,
cInciR., 183'
Cotnrg Pan., 807
m, i3»
CiDCinimti, 63(1, 539,
Cochatamba, 071,
ColainW.R.Ml
Chlppci'STim Ft.,
Colombia (town).
siiVsss
Clotat, Ln, 198, 209
633,638,641
CTiipping-Bodbiuj,
ClaoiQcaBln; 822
Cochin. 8S2, SW,
CoTurabui (Ohin),
Chins- Pnnji, B83,
clttadelli, 282,291
Cochin China, 343.
607, 630, 039. 641
Clud»d HMl, 179,
Colytoo. lie. 110
ChiauigR,408
Cochin China,
Coinaochio,!i32,2B0
Chitt»gong,3ea,SS4.
"^'r^r/r"-
CockbsraL.OOO
Connyagu., 603,
ChlttrsU, 104, m
Cindid Rodrigc,
Cnmino L. er. 588
ChioM. 282
Cocienacuth, 117,
God d, SOU
Camoinas. 196. !0S
CKdMR', 439,493
CivtUVsochu, 283,
ciioLsemiL.flai)
SSr, 339
CodtKcha,i4a
C™o, 282,' 2M. =90
Chollet, 187, am
Codogno, S8S, 290
lai, 168
CDgamnaR.SSO
Coniorlnh.,S18,afla
CI>m-KiugR.,SM,
Cogge.hall.116,111
Co)oorol9..41i;413
421
Cognac, 197, 201.«7
Compass Berg, 410
Chor ft., 138
Colmbra, 70, ISO,
Cninpitgne, 198,203
Chorley, 117, 12(,
Climeor! 199,208
182,180 ^
Comhe. 14fi, 109
C us R., 340
Coin. ITS. 183
ChotynorClioctini,
Cl«rB,106
Coin or Chor. MS,
321, S21, 328
CIsre li., 1«9
874.278
Choubir, 378, 8S1
Clir«H.. 179
609, Ml '
Glioa-chow, 421
Clare R,m
S67
Cl«eirR,171
Colberg. Ml
Connsptionc'ooo
Chow-lilng,407,421
Golberg B., SSI
Christ Church (New
CUA"^.,6flS°'^°
Colehigni, S9a
Caiii]o^,531,03T,0ia
ZealaidX «1fl
ClRu.th»l, 239, 241,
CoJcheiter,110,m,
Condi 196, JOB. 2!»
Conegllsno,2B2.a91
Chrialohurch, H«,
Clenr. Cape. 86, lfl9
Coldatream.lto.ioe
ChrisOiuui. 73, BS7,
CleriDonl, 74, ISfl,
Condon, 117, 138
197, Me, 207
Coletord, 118, 139
Cngo, 173
ChrirtlMta Kord,
Cleraiont FMimd,
Cli^C'B^S"%V
Colenine, 109, ltd,
Congo B., 189,444.
Chriitimsuid. 3S7,
SS!lS!S?if1SUkx
Coni. 281. 290
Cleveland, iSfl, 039,
ConnL.m
lie, 142
ConneeticDt. 03G
Cl™i,I»9,2M
Coiima. Ul
ClEw B,, l«g
Colle,aBt.lSa
C1,rist!iul«tidl, 033,
sita'A
Colmar IW, Wl,
Conslano«,iOO,«S.
ChriatlBMUd. 827
H8,j«a
ClirlBUphet, St,I.,
aswai"
ColmoR.W
Colmanu^ 178, 179,
Oonslantina, ITS
as3ia,a,?„
Clo^D. IM, 17«
cio>;>>kuiy.iH.m
CoIdi, 117, !■■
Cliurtlelgh, lia. 140
Ctonea, 163, m
Oolng (Bun) R,
ConstantlnoplB.
CtindleiBhC.,604
aonmel, 136, isg,
SOT. MP. 812
Chamleigh, 139
OalaeDD, It, hti
CK,nd,a,BlB
OunJ^J"
STO
Ooj™, i«, in
M1,M
i^ — n
^TcrmUDent, Bmli- 1 O™. C„ 68
Croirarly, 117, 154, CuEcn.SSa.6B0.flni ■
^ em, Ml CotloiiB. 282
C!F]ad»il>..87.8UI ■
ConllnecU, Seven,
CprnBa, 170, 177,
Cromarty Fr.. 160
CFdnaaB., 3MI ■
181.165
Cjraiiaila, 289 ■
c™««j, 1«. m
Cos 0„ 385
Cipraa I., 318, 300, ■
Conmy R.. 188
Cos le.. 3M
Cromer. US, 1«
301 ■
Cook ML, «7
Cronsladl or KolU-
Czahs. 267. 281 f
Cook Inlet, toa
Co<,f.L.eM
CoaoMM "
c™^"m.^!?3^"
C™M, m, 204
C0BMR.28B
Crossen, i38, 261
CieiilocliDW, 261,
C(nnuss<e,4tlV.»S,
*S1
Casta Rlu, £03,^57
CnxmniollnB^ lOB,
g=Ji-.?g,,„
C5te d-Or, OB, JUB,
CrostoloR.. WO
Cildlloa R., 262
Cootar tf , m
copeiuid t, laa
Cotopml IL.'lTO,
C™wiril"li2*^
Dacca. SSE, 384
Oop«Ue,M»
B77
Croydoti, 118, 110
Dadar,B60,STB,37»,
Copk^!S«,&M,601
Cotrone, 282, MO
Cnmuq'ock Water
DnghertM, 3!2
Coi)tapoa,,«ll
Uago I., 320
I)SB,'m4Sl
Co^«r., iM
Couqoeta, »«
Cubi L, m. 601,
Ooqoettt.m
Coutland. 819
Dalioioey, 178
CoQDlmbo oga, mi
Goutancfs, IW, £08
CuQkBeld, 118, IM
Dilibui' 317, 380
DU.kel,: 64i: 644
tn.in.wa" ■*
Cove I.. ie»
ISO
Oorheil. W9. a^S
Coi-entry, lie, 138.
Cu6n?s (Anariai),
iWkola, 530
Oonlillen de Booon
Dal it, 78, SM
M., KM
Coi^tiii. ISO, 188
Sale Pt„ 607
CortOT^ 178, ISl,
CoTlcglon. 830
CueradflVar.,178,
180
Dalmatli, 267'
GcrdoTXIdPlBtaX
C™!!v. iso, 2BS,
Culebra Port, 667,
Co™Cs4T,3M,*lS.
c^ia M., an
Cradock, 46B
Callicin. 007. 041.
Dairy, 146. 108
Lalton. 117, 138
Dai nans, 102. 483
Comi atr.. BM
Co'lliean B., 607,
CoKU Arch., 418
DamaBcus,Sab,yG3
Corfu ClL.Sig
Colleo. 110, 163,188
Corinth. SW, 800
Cranbrook, 116, HO
Cidle™. 178, 180
Dsnitetlu, 452, 467.
Cort, 1«*. 187. 17a
Cnne K, lio
Cullln, Lough, 172
Corfe, Cove ot-ai
CnitlR,MD
CollDmpton, 118
oSJht., m
Cr«leR.,HO
Oiedfton. Itft 110
CURI»,SOO
aTq^B*. 6TB, on.
Ca[leaiw,aES
CKeR.IBO
001
Creefaiwn, 145, 100
cSJISa!"ilS; Sm
Crerold, MB, S4I,
Sudib AnMpel.
ConHihMl..,136
Cnmborimd (Am,),
CorDO H., «S, 288
CnniB, 189, 200
086, 088
Cornwin. lie, IM
Cremoiui, 3SS, SB4,
Caiab«rlatid I.. 606
B3B, 310
Cornwall!. I-.SW
DsuubB K,. 76, 161.
Core, S7», 677, SOI
CraBCentlno, SOO
cZl«'BEriild,'llO.
Creaxy, 190.3<'0,!08
160
Crest, ioa,!»T '
Flaip'of, 71
Crete t, 808, SID
Cumbrian Mb.., 88,
. GomaMlona, SO!,
c«B», m
IBfl
Danfig.asV.sio.aoi
1 Mi
Onuia a, WB
Cumnock, 146, 100
^4^°" ^'^' **"■
fa^lDTTtH. 1»
CreuiC, 80. 193
^Hni«HiR..»7
Creyillente.ns.ise
Cur«, 116, ISO, 169
Damlderd, 871
^^Hmb Lau«^. 179
Cre»e, 117, 158, 138
Cupar ABgoi, 118.
^^Kilb K, 170. 171
Crexkeme, 114, 139
168
lesponl, 07, 310,
^^^ia.Um.S7l.sae,
Cries. 14^ 183. m
oorBp«i.,a»,SM,
3U
a<Hti.n,tMkiL.
681^888,600
Curi>ch.Bitr;Mi
Darent. 110
^H^«iM a. G09.
Dartni. 173, 171
Oi«tii,tST
CuiitibiL6a2.8«i
CitranlB I.. 280
lUrtel, 388
^^KTTi..m
Crt»ti^ TwkBh,
^■h4» ].. sj, m.
WT
CuHiat. lUH, m
H-iion 0., m"
^H^^^^^^|^^|[jD»|^i. goi
l)aim.CM.,iW«
644
INDEX.
Darling R, 607
Darlington, 115,
120, 142
Darm R., 263
Dannstadt, 74, 251,
252, 263
Dametal, 196, 205
Dare C, 244
Dart R, 140
Dartford, 115, 140
Dartmoor, 136
Dartmonth, 116, 140
Darwen R, 138
Darwin Port, 604,
605
DastiR,S81
Datiya, 383, 405
Davenport, 536
Daventry, 118, 141
Dans Str., 505
Dax, 197, 207
Dayton, 339, 636,
Wl
Dead Sea, 852, 365
Deal, 115, 122, 140
Dean R, 159
Dearg, Ben, 157
Deame R, 141
Deben, R, 141
Debrecziu, 257, 279,
264
Deddington, 118
Dee R (Scot.), 159,
160
Dee R (Eng.), 138
Dee R (Ire.), 171
Dee, Estuary of, 135
Deel R, 171, 172
Deer L., 508
Delaware Ft., 540
Delaware R , 507,
540
Delaware, 535
Delette R, 206
Delft, 221, 222, 224
Delgado C, 441
Delhi, 351. 382, 885,
390, 405
Delly, 625
Delow, 473
Delta, 453
Delvino, 307, 308,
811
Demayend Mt., 349
DembeaL.,445,458
Demer R, 225
Demerara, 568
Dommin, 238
Demotika, 308
Denbigh, 119, 132,
188
Dender R , 225
Dendermonde, 215,
225
Denison Port, 607
Denmark, 229
I Dennis Head, 156
Denny, 146. 159
DentR, 138
Denver City, 536
Deptford, 115, 122,
140
Deraieh, 368
Derbend, 322, 325
Derbend Pass, 827
Derby, 117. 127, 142
Derby Peak, 135
Derbyshire, 117, 127
Dereveragh L., 172
DergL.,172
Dema, 461
Deropuli R, 311
Derr, 451, 452, 461
Derwent (Derby)
R, 142
Derwent (Tasm.)
R,614
Derwent (York), R ,
141
Derwentwater L.,
142
Desagnadero R. , 601
Desert (Great), 440
Desertas Is., 183
Desiradel, 562
Des Moines, 536, 541
Des Moines R, 541
Desna R, 328
Despoto Dagh M.,
311
Dessau, 242, 243,
262
Desterro, 682
Detmold, 242, 243,
262
Detroit, 518, 536,
539, 540
Deule, R,208, 225
Deux Sevres, 197
Deventer, 222, 224,
263
Deveron R, 159
Devis, M., 170
Devizes, 116, 128,
140
Devon, 116, 124
Devon R, 142, 159
Devon, Black, R,
169
Devon, N.,I., 505
Devonian, M., 68,
136
Devonport, 116,
124, 139
Devrek R, 380
Dewas, 851
Dewsbury, 115, 141
Dhar, 851, 383, 405
Dhawalagiri M., 849
Dholpnr, 361
Diemel R, 262
Diepholz L., 244 >
Dieppe, 196, 200,
205
Diest, 215, 225
Digne, 198, 207
Dijon, 75, 199, 204,
207
Dilman, 371, 427
Dilolo L., 444, 445
Dinan, 197, 206
Dinan R, 172
Dinant, 215, 225
Dinario Alps, 260,
311
Dingle, 164, 168, 172
Dingle B., 169, 172
Dingwall, 146, 154,
159
Dinkelsbuhl, 250
265
Disco I. , 234
Disna R, 327
Diss, 115, 141
Din Head, 388
Din I., 192
Divale R, 206
Dive R, 206
Dives R, 206
DivetteR.207
Dixcove, 477
Diyaleh R, 381
Diyarbekr, 851, 381
Dizful, 371, 380
DizfulR,380
Djabakan R, 416
DjimmaR, 461
Dniitrov, 328
Dnieper R., 76, 328
Dniester R, 76,328
Do Norte C, 669
Dobbo, 621 ■
Dobeln, 242, 262
Doboi, 807, 312
Doce, 601
Dochart h., 160
Dodabetta M., 889
Dole, 198, 207
Dolgelly, 119, 183,
138
Dollar, 146, 159
Dollart Zee, 67, 233
Dolonnor, 421
Domesnea C, 826
Dominica L, 661,
662
Dommel B., 226
Don R, 169, 828
Don, Old, B., 143
Don(York)R,Ul
Don Bennito, 177,
185
Donaghadee, . Ktt,
171
Doncftster, llfi^ IJO.
141
Donegal, 16flf, 171
Donegal a, 169, IT
Donegal Mts., 170
Doneraile, 164
Donets R, 328
Donga R, 481
DongeR, 225
DoDgola, New, 451,
452, 461
Doon, B., 160
Doom R, 486
Doorshak, 376, 428
Dora-Baltea B., 290
Dora - Biparia B.,
291
Dorchester, 116,
124, 140
Dordogne, 197
Dordogne B., 207
Dore B., 2(>6
Doreham E., 115
Dorking, 116, 140
Dornoch, 147, 154,
159
Dornoch Fr., 156
Doro C, 301
Dorog, 264
Dorogobusk, 820,
328
Dorpat, 819, 827
Dorset. 116. 124
Dort, 221, 223, 226
Dortmund, 239, 241,
263
Dos Patos L., 571
Dosse R, 262
Donay, 196, 200,
226
Donbs, 198
Doubs R, 207
Douglas, 145, 160
Douglas B., 160
Doune, 146, 169
Douro, 180
Donro R, 76, 186
Douve R, 206
Dove R, 148
Dover (DelawaroX
686,640
Dover (Biig.X 116^
138, 140
Dover (New Hamp-
BhireX 584, 640
Dover Bti^, 186, 140
Dovey R, 188
DoindieldMti.,79,
889
DoiriLldS
DowniMai JbalBet,
llA
Dov^kMoI^ MI^
ueiin
T
^^
6i5 ,
y DriketjlMtB Mta,
Dunaee, 148, 152,
E»«l*r I., 502,631
H-Kliargeli, 451,
B^dm Heed, 348,
lago, 692
El KhadB, 380
EaeUra FeulDanla,
E10bBid,461.463
340 ' '
Bibs 1., 67, 288
Dnnedln. 816, 617
Eastern TnrkeaUn,
ElbB a, 73, 2S2
rDnfennlliiB. 145,
346, 422
Elbe, EsC of, 244
Dr^on&.EDT
plil.lW
Bbm' R, 75, 184,
Elberfeld, 289, 242.
Dnnlhe. KS
DtMdBn, 73, S43
nf^ '
Ebwy R. 130
Blblng, 287,240, 261
Dreoi, 1««. sua
Dnngarvan, 1 84, 1 72
Eceleftuhsn. IflO
BlblngR,26l
Driffield. Qt, 115,
BeclDBbaU. 118, 142
BlhcoBl, 196, 200,
Eohtemaeh. «!4
DriJi G., BiO
EcUi., 178, 186
Blbnra M., TO, 328,
DrtfR. an, 312
DuEkeld, 148, 169
Ecuador, 668, 676
349, SSS, 373
DriiuiB.,Sii4.313
Dmikerqoe, 1B8,
Bd-Dhamer, 431
El„he, its', 186
DngfaidB, 164, isg,
Elohea.lSS
m
Eden R (Eng,), 1S5,
Srohoblei, !BS, 25S,
Elepbant R, 438
BSS
Dunniore Hd., 68,
Eden B (Scot. 1,159
Elepbanta 1., 3BS
Drollwlc*, lia, 1S9
Edendtrry, 164, ITl
Drome, Ifla
Dunnot Heod, 66,
Edfou, 461
iS?''^''=^""
DromeR,. SOe, SOT
Edinburgh, 144,147,
DtoBioTft 183,171
Dunnlns, 118, 160
DroDflold, 117. 1"
DannmB R , ISH
Eecloo, 51 6
Eltzabotgrad, 321,
Scoathelm.asT.MD
Eein R. 29*
Sr^'i Bluff M.,«U
Dqnoun, 146. 'lS3,
EBaR,lB6
Eliail»tpol.S92,39g
DiT8«.4sa
Eger. 956, 257, 262
Ellen R. 138
Dn Bnqoe, £36, 639,
I>unse.l45,148,15a
Eger B„ 233, 266
BonBtabla.US, 130,
Kgerflr L., 365
Gltesmere I.. 606
Dnbleii, aS4. 80T.
Eggi. 47S, 4S1
Blliohpur, 389
Esfsarab, 478
DaWM, H., 327
D u perry l8,, 82S
Eghsn., us
Hmlna. 477, 478,
Dublin, 194, lee,
DumEM B.. %n
Eglna, BOl
171 ■
Egq.™t M., 817
Elmsbom, 239
Dublin B.. 189
EgOfUfcR, S98
Elom R, 206
DnlinlcM, BUS
Elphlo, 18i
Diil>no, 311
Durtan,'4Gfi
DddK. »»
Dnrdu R, 205
£l!bjor4, 280
DnddoB K., 138
Duren. m, 239
ElHMr. Black. R,
Durhsm, 114, 1!0,
3SVf!i."*
Dsdler. lis. 133
Elater, White, R,
OumowB, 14*. 168
Dii.h^, 3TS, 4SS
Bhaingsn, 250, 28B
269
DuIibniB. 230. MB
DiBMiiiorf. aso,
BiPBtHidt, »fiO, 265
Elstow, 150
242. S8S
Efel Mil, TO
ElvuB. leo, 162
DSSG^rBfis"'
Dntnh Foreign Po«-
Bii li., lee
Elf, 118, ]S><, 141
DnlMR.eSK
nusloni, 299
Dutoh Giiiim*, S«S,
BUrabinB, !89. S62
Ely R, 180
DBlclgno, 307. 311
Snibeoli, 230, 962
BUR, 268
Etowh B„ 2S1
Emdai, SS9, S41
OuDlbutnil, 143.
Do" lie R, 285
ElMnadi, S43, 243,
EmmellO-,310
161, 180
DwiSB R, 72, 397
Euilueb-Dagb U„
DnmfatTlUo B„
DyleB,l!S6
Elihjtrt toob. 158
311
Dy.«t. 146, 158
E»l!orJoj.l-,S21
BmmenR.ies
mm« L, 244
I^C^l*. ilS
Ktdehi!ii.la9. «1.
DumMe., 145. US,
E,nj.L.e», ™,le of
^m m
^^IIUdsB,73 '' -
^^^■^'V '■''■■'■
i;,,-^.Ni5i:w., aoo
^^bn^dallc. 184, 1
■■
646
INDEX.
Enfield, 119, 140
Engelberg Aa B.,
263
Enguera, 178, 186
EcJchuizen, 221, 224
EonelL., 172
EnDerdale - water,
142
Ennis, 165. 168, 172
Enniscorthy, 164,
167, 172
EnniBkillen, 163,
166, 171
Enns R., 2^3
Enos, 308, 312
Ens R., 263
Enschede, 222, 224,
263
Entre Rios, 596
Eperies, 257, 264
Epernay, 198, 206
Ephraim Town, 481
Epinal, 198, 208
Epping, 115, 140
Epsom, 116, 140
Epte R., 205
Epworth, 115
Era R., 289
Erekli, 808, 312
Eresma R, 185
Erewash R., 142
Erfurt, 239, 241, 262
Ergent or Beratina
(Apsus) R., 311
Ergolz R., 263
Eribol Loch, 156
Ericht L., 160
ErichtR., 159
Erie L., 508, 521, 526
ErigrI, 380
Erlha (Jericho), 860,
380
Erivan, 352
Krkeneh R, 312
Eriangen, 250, 251,
263
Erlan, 264
Erlau R., 264
Erne L., 172
Erne R, 171, 173
Em^e, 196, 206
EmSeR., 206
Errigal M., 170
Enrol, 146, 159
Erromanga, 620
Erzgebirge Mts.,
252, 260
Erziugan, 359, 381
Erzroum, 328, 351,
359, 361, 381
EschatzR.,263
Eschwege, 262
Esh Sham, 360, 880
Esino R., 290
Esk (Eng.) R., 188
Eak k, 169
Etiki-Sjaroa, 803,
312
Eski-Kavallo, 312
Eski-Sagra,3u8, 312
Esla R., 185
Esmeraldas, 568,
601
Esneh, 451, 461
Espeja, 178, 186
Espichel C, 183
Espinhaco Mts.,
582
Espiritn, 562
Espirita Santo, 619
Essek or Eszek, 75,
257, 259, 264
Essen, 239
Ejsseqoibo, 580
Essequibo R., 571
Essex, 115, 122
Esslingen, 250, 263 |
Essonne R., 206
Estaire, 196
Este, 291
Estella, 179, 186
Estepa, 178, 185
Estepona, 178, 186
Esteron R., 203
Esthonia, 319
Estremadora, 176,
180
Estremoz, 180, 185
Etanips, 199, 206
Etang-de-Berre L.,
208
Ethiopia, 456
Etive L., 160
Etna M., 69. 70, 289
Eton, 118, 130, 140
Ettrick Pen., 158
Ettrick R, 159
Eaboea or Negro-
pont, 67, 299, 301
EuhoR,42i
Eapen, 239
Euphrates R, 349,
351, 852, 380
Eore, 196
EureR,205
Eure-et-Loir, 198
Europa Point, 183
Europe, 62, 63
Evansville, 536
Evel R. 206
Evenlode R, 141
Everest M., 349
Evesham, 118, 141
Evora, 75, 180, 182,
185
Evreuz, 196, 200,
205
EweL., 160
Ex R, 140
Exaltacion, 671
Exeter, 116, 124, 140
Bxmoor, 189
Exmouth, 116. 140 '
Exmouth O., 607
Eyder R, 234
Eye, 115, 141
Eye R, 159
Eyemouth, 145, 159
Eyeo. 473, 478, 4«1
Eyre L., 608
Ezion-Geber, 864
FAAijk.R,186
Fabriano, 282
Faenza, 282, 286,
290
Fahlun, 337, 338,
340
Fai-fo, 405
Fair Head, 66, 169
Fair I., 156
Fairweather Ml,
506
Faizabad, 382, 384,
885,404
Falalse, 196, 206
Falkirk, 146, 151,
159
Falkland, 145, 159
Falkland Is., 569,
605
FaU River, 535
Falmouth, 116, 124,
139
Falmouth Hr., 135,
139
False R, 485
Falsterl., 66,231
Fane R, 171
Fannich L., 160
Fano. 282, 290
Farajghan, 425
Fareham, 116, 140
Farewell C, 504
Famham, 116, 140
Faro, 180, 182, 185
Faroe Isles, 66,
231
Faroon L., 445
Farringdon, 6t,
116, 140
Farmkhabad, 882,
885,404
Farsistan, 871, 878
Fasa, 871
Fatteconda, 481
Faversham, 115, 140
Favignana I., 288
Feale R, 172
Fecamp, 196, S05
Fejee u., 629
Felegy-Hasa, S57,
264
Feltr6, S82, 891
Feiigufl R. ITS
Fermanagn, 108
Feziiio,^L»0
VenooKtM
Fennoy, 164, 168^
172
Fernando PoL, 441
Feme Is., 134
Ferrara, 282, 286,
290
Ferrol, 177, 181, 185
Ferryden, 146
Ferry - Port - on •
Cndg, 145
Fez, 402, 463
Fezzan, 439, 416,
462,467
FichtelgebiigeMts.,
252
Fidari8R,802
Fiddich R, 159
Fiel L., 231
Pieran R, 208
Fife, 145, 150
Fifeness C, 156
Figeac, 199, 207
Figu^ra, 180, 185
FigneiroR, 185
Figueras, 179, 186
FilsR, 263
Findhom R, 159
Fingal,614
FinM^, 197
Finisterre C, 66,
183
Finland, 319
Finland G., 67, 326
Finsbury, 119
Fluster - aar - horn
M., 69, 274
Pintona, 163, 171
Fiord. West, 67, 338
Firth, Fentland, 67,
156
Fish R, 486
Fishgua^ 138
Fittrd L., 445, 474
Fitzroy R, 608
Fiame,257.259,265
Finme O., 266
Flamborough Head,
134
Flanders R, 815
Flanders W., 815
FlatteiyO., 505
Fltehe. La, 199, 20«
Fleet R, 160
Fleetwood, 117, 188
Flensbnig, 239
Flers, 196, 206
FlesenL., 244
Fleams, 816
Flinden R, 606
FlindezB Baiun, 006
Flin^ mim, 186
Fm3i» 604^101
FlaKjdaStr.,560
INDEX.
647
Flashing, 221, 223,
225
FluWa R, 186
Fo Eien Ch., 421
Fochabers, 146, 159
Foggia, 282, 287,
290
Foglia R, 290
Fogo 1 , 441
Foix, 74, 197, 207
Foix R, 186
FoWen, 407
Fo-kienCh.,421
Foktchany, 264, 308
Foldvar, 264, 857
Foligno, 282, 289
Folkstone, 115, 122,
140
Fondl, 282, 289
Fonseca B., 558
Font du Lac, 536
Fontainebleau, 199,
203, 205
Fontenay, 197, 206
Fontenoy, 215, 216
Foo-chow, 407
Fooladoo Mts., 469
Foolah, 471
Footiuallon, 444
Fordingbridge, 116
Foreland N.,G., 134
Foreland S., C, 66,
134
Forfar, 146, 152, 159
Foig, 371
Forli. 282, 290
Forinentera I., 67,
188
Formosa I., 410
Formosa Pt., 441
Formosa Str., 348
Foire8,146,153,159
Fort Aralsk, 428,
429. 430
Fort Beaufort, 486
Fort Chippewayan,
629
Fort FrankllD, 529
Fort George, 146,
154, 159
Fort Ooree, 470
Fort Hope, 529
Fort Macpherson,
629
Fort Norman, 689
Fort PeroTski, 430
Fbrt Bt Loois, 481
Fbit Union, 641
Fort Wayne, 636
Fort WiUiun, 146
Fort York, 608, 629
Fort Turns, 641
FoitescneR, 608
Forth R, 169
Forth, FT., 166
VoitzoH>U9
Foss R, 141
Fossano, 281
Fotheringay, 118,
129
Fougeray, 197, 206
Fougferea, 197, 206
Foveaux Str., 616
Fowev, 116, 139
Fox Ch., 505
Poyle, Lough, 169
Foyle R, 171, 172,
173
Fraga, 179, 186
FramUngham, 115,
141
France, 65, 193
FrancoliR, 186
Franeker, 222, 224
Frankenberg, 242,
262
Frankenstein, 238,
262
Frankfort (U. S.),
507, 536
Frankfttrt (Main),
239, 241, 263
Frankfilrt (Oder),
238, 241, 261
Franklin Ch., 502
Franklin Ft., 529
Fraserburgh, 146,
159
Fraserville, 626
Fraubrunnen, 276
Frauenfeld, 263,
272 273
Fraustodt, 237, 261
Fnuser R, 506, 507,
627
Fredericia, 230
Fredericksburg,635
Frederickshaab, 284
Frederickshald,
337, 888
Fredexickstadt,337,
340
Frederlcton, 519
Free Town, 470, 481
Freemantle, 604,
605
Freemont's Peak,
506
Fregenal de la Sier-
ra, 177
FresquelR, 207
Freiburg, 242, 243,
268,272
Freislng. 260, 265
French Gaiaiia^ 668,
679
Friendly Is., 680
Friesland, 822
Frigido R, 889
Frio a, 689
Friaohe Haff, 844
FkonM, 110k 184,189
Frome R., 139
Frome R. (Aus-
tralia), 608
Frome Lower R,
139
Frosinone, 2S3, 289
FucinoL, 291
Fuegian Arch. , 569
Fuen - chow, 407,
^408, 421
Fuen-hoR,407,421
Fuentarrabia, 177,
185
Fueute Alamo, 178,
186
Fuente Genii, 178
Fuentes de la Cam-
paiia, 178, 185
Fuerte Ventura I.,
183
Fuga, 499
Fuhne R., 262
Fiihnen I., 66, 231
Fulda, 239, 263
FuldaR,263
Fulgo R, 404
Fulham, 119, 132,
140
Funghal, 180, 183
Puncheon R, 172
Fundah, 473
Fundy B.,505, 521
Punf kircheu, 256
Fureedkote, 487
Furens R, 206
Fumeaux Is., 606
Ftirth, 250, 251, 263
Further India, 346,
347, 353, 899
Gabella, 265
Gabon R. 481
Gaeta, 282, 286, 289
Gaeta G., 288, 289
Gaillac, 197, 207
Gainsborough, 115,
121
Gairdner L., 608
Qala, R , 159
Qal&cz, 308, 310, 312
Galapagos Is., 569
Galashiels, 145, 150,
159
Galena, 536, 539
Galicia, 256
Galilee, Sea of, 365
Gkdla, country, 439,
496
Galle, 888, 887
GhOlinas Pt., 569
GallipoU, 808, 809,
818
GaUo 0., 801
Galloway, Mull of,
06,166
Galaton, 146, 160
Galveston, 536. 539,
541
Galway, 165, 168,
171
Galway B., 169, 171
Galwen, 496
Gambia, 94
Gambia R, 439. 440,
444, 469, 481
Gambler Is., 214,
631
Gamla-Carleby, 327
Gamtoos R, 4r<6
Gandia, 178, 186
Gando, 473
Ganges Canal, 3P9
Ganges R., 351, 388,
390, 404
Gannat, 199, 206
Gap, 198, 207
Gapeau R , 208
Gara, Lough, 172
Card, 197
Garda L, 77, 291
GardonR, 207
GarganoC, 283
GariepR,4St5
Garigliano R, 289,
291
Gamock R., 160
Garomua I., 169
Garonne R, 74, 207
Garressio, 282
Garrobillas,177,186
Gartempe R., 2u6
Gartok, 418
Garvogue R., 171
Gascogne R., 608
Gaspfi Pt., 520
Gata, de (;., 66, 183
Gatehouse, 145, 160
Gateshead, 115, 120,
142
Gatshina, 319. 327
Gaudiana R.. 18ri
Guadiana Minor B ,
186
Gaurisankar M. , 349
GauritzR,486
Gave-de-Pau R.,
207
Gavi, 282, 290
Gavora R, 185
Gaya, 382, 384. 404
Gaza (Ghuzzeh),360,
862, 380
Geelong, 604
Geelvink Bay, 621
GceteR,22S
Gefle, 837, 338, 810
Gelderlaud, 222
(Jellen Str., 244
Gtommi Pass, 274
Genappe, 816
GenargentOfMonta
69,889
648
INDEX.
Geneva, 207, 208,
272, 273
Geneva L., 77, 276
GenevreM.,69,205,
289
Genii R., 185
Genoa, 281, 283, 289
Genoa G., 67, 288,
289
Geograph B., 607
George Town (De-
mer.), 668, 679,
671
George Town (Pen-
ang), 382, 387
George Town (Prin.
Ed. Isles), 619
Georgetown (Afr.,
486
George, St, Ber-
muda, 567
George, St, G., 569
Georgia, 536
Georgia G., 527, 6-28
Georgia S. I., 569,
Georgian B., 626
Georgievsk, 322
Gera, 242, 262
Gera R, 262
Gerardmer, 198
Gergal, 178, 186
German Ocean, or
North Sea, 67
GemMtn (North)
Confederation, 236
Germany, 234
Germany,South,249
Gerona, 176, 179,186
Gers, 197
Ger8R.,207
Ghadames, 467, 468
Ghagra R., 404
Ghats E., Mts., 389
Ghats W. Mts., 389,
390
Gheel, 215, 225
Ghent, 74, 215
Ghilan, 371
Ghizeh — see Jeezeh
Ghnznee, 376, 404,
428
Ghnznee R., 428
Giants* Causeway,
166
Gibraltar, 93, 186
Gibraltar B., 183
Gibraltar Str., 67,
183
Gien, 199, 206
GierR,207
Giessbach Fall, 276
Giessen, 251, 252,
263
GignelaR.,185
Gijon, 177
Gilbert Is., 928
Gilgit, 382, 387
GUolo I., 622, 626
Gimena, 178, 186
Girgeh, 461, 461
GironR.,207
Gironde, 197
Gironde Est, 204
Girvan, 145,149,160
GirvanR,160
Giurgevo, 264, 808,
310, 313
Givet, 198, 208, 225
Glace, Mer de, 275
Glamorgan, 119, 134
GlanR., 264
Glaru8,263,272,273
Glasgow, 145, 160,
160
Glass L., 160
Glastonbury, 116,
139
Glatz, 238, 262
GlanR., 263
Glauchau, 242
Gleiwitz, 238, 262
Glen R., 141
Glenluce, 146
Glogau, 238, 240,261
GlommenR., 340
Gloucester, 118,129,
139
Gltickstadt,239,241,
262
Glums, 291
Glutchov, 321, 328
Clyde R, 171
Glynn R., 141
Gmiind, 250, 263
Gnesen, 237, 261
Goa, 383, 388, 404
Goascoran R., 658
Gobi or Shamo, 415,
422
Gobi Plateau, 847
Godada R., 383, 406
Godalming, 116, 140
Godavery Canal, 399
GodaveryR.,351,404
Goderich, 526
Godhavn, 631
Godmanchester,
118, 141
Goes, 221, 225
GognaR., 290
Gktgra R.—see Gha-
gra
Golconda, 391
Gold Coast, 477
Goldberg, 238, 261
GoUnow, 238, 261
Golspie, 147,154,159
Golt8chR,262
Gombroon, 368, 375,
881
Gomera I., 183
Gomo Pass, 600
Gomorrha, 365
Gondar, 439, 458,
459, 461
Oondokoro, 461
Good Hope, Cape
of, 441
Good Hope Fort,
629
Goole, 115, 120. 141
Goppingen, 250, 263
Gorakhptlr,382,386,
405
Gordokh, 419
Goree, 214, 470
Gorey, 164, 172
Gorknm, 221, 224,
263
G6rlitz,238,240,261
Gort, 165, 171
Gortop^, 418
GHJrz or Goritz, 256,
258,291
Goslar, 239. 262
Goteboi^-^cc Go-
thenborg
Gotha, 73, 242, 243,
262
Gotha R., 73, 339,
340
Gothard,St,M.,274
Gothenborg,73,836,
337, 340
GothlandL,66, 338
GdUingen, 239, 241,
262
Gouda, 221,222,224
Gouet R,206
Gtonlbum, 604
Gounagh L., 172
Gourdon, 199, 207
Goorock, 145, 160
Gova, 451,461
Goyana, 581, 601
Goyaz or ViUa Boa,
601
GoytR,138
Gozen Zair, R,481
Gozol.,67, 93, 288
Graaf Reynet, 485
Grabow, 242, 262
Graci08-a-Di08 C,
668
Graham's Town, 485
Grain Coast, 477
GrammosM., 311
Grampian Mts., 157
Grampians, Aus-
tralian, 606
Gran, 267, 264
GranR, 264
Granada (Spain),
178, 181, 186
Granada (Cent.
Amer.), 667
Granadian Confed.,
676
Granard, 164, 172
Grand-Lieu L., £>8
Grand R, 640
GraneorEtieit,S68,
380
Grangemonth, 146,
159
Grantham, 141
Grantown, 146, 159
Granville, 196, 206
Grasse, 208
Grassmere L.,142
Gratz, 76, 256, 258
264
Graudenz, 237, 261
Graulhet, 197, 207
Gravelines, 196, 205
Gravesend, 115, 122,
140
Gravina, 282, 290
Gravina R. , 290
Gray, 198, 207
Grazalema, 178, 186
Great Australian
Bight. 607
Great Bear L., 608
Great Fish R, 486
Great KeiR, 486
Great Lake, Tas-
mania, 614
Great Lakes, regioD
of. 439. 498
Great Salt L., 602;
606, 608
Great Salt Lake
City, 536, 540, 542
Great Slave L., 602,
508
Greece, 65, 298
Green Mts., 606,
620
Greenock, 145, 149,
160
Greenland, 603, 6C6,
531
Greenlaw, 146, 148,
158
Greenwich, 115, 122,
140
Gregory L., 608
Greiffenbei^, 238,
261
Greinord, Loch, 156
Greitz. 73, 242, 262
Grenada, L, 661,
662
Grenade, 207
Grenoble, 75, 198,
207
Gretna Green, 138
Grimma, 242, 262
Grimsby, Great,
116, 121, 141
Grimsel M., 274
Grimstead, Baal|
116. 140
^r OrintlslI LiiDd, 305 I Gaben. 236, SAl ; Hshinli. 4ns 1 T[an'difliic.4a7.4Sl ^M
^ GriqanQ.u,,i;i,4SH
^rrs^/"
Ual^arabad, SS3,
H«nd=k, Fall. 275
Hang-cljow, 407,
GriaNesC,6fl, 2:4
Gneret, 189, 206
arisoDB, S72. i7«
OoerDief L. 134
Guorrero, 661
nSSSS
Baiigi) Fotnt, et.
a^nbilB,'?*^'^.
Hainan 1,848, 410
HanliBl (Thai, 422
^m SiS, 224, 263
GilBU-U-PBsa, 4! 8
Hainanlt. 216
^L QttosULm
H™i^?"i4l"' '^^
^B GrOMWtuila, S42,
"BriiiihfVm "'""'^■■*^*
Haioeoh, M)
Hannibal, 636
^H 262
Hidnickan, 342
Hanover, 289, 241.
^V Onsuttl, 2B2, 289
SB8, 5T9— Ftan^'hl
Haiti L, 661, 662,
214. S«B, 679-
H«noTflr{n. 8.1.684
HsntB, 116. 12S
!)fl.aM'^ '
Haitian C. 602
Grlmbsrg 238. 881
GuUdfbid, 116. 123,
Hskoaadl, m, 437
Hap^27
Hal, 216
Goad^li R, 18S
hS^, 4si, MB, 497
Guadiiaviiir'B., 76,
HaJboraUdt. '239.
Hara3chR,2«4
Guinea, 439,' IJfl
Harbnig, 239 3S2
HardanserFd.SSa
HaldenslebeD, 239,
QuadaUn™. 179,
Guinea, New, 'fl03,
H.J..S, »»..
GuiDEamp, 197, S08
Haloswortli, 116,
Haliaz, lis, 120,
HariJwar, 382, 384,
^ Oniiialem K., ISA
386, 104
^^ Ooadliata R. ISD
HalWkip). a.),B19,
Haro, 179, 136
^H Giimd>ireoB.,lSS
Gujarat, SS2, 883,
BarleBton, 116, 141
^H O>u>d>1]orce B., I8«
HalifaiHr.,621)
Onldjll, 416, 428
Hall. ISO, 263
Hanan, 360. S64,
Halle, 289, 241. 262
HalBlead, 115, 129.
HarriH Bound. 156
GoKdnlups R. . 188
GumU R, 40S
Gciduuiillo R ,
Hsltwhiatlo, 111,
HarrogaU, 116, 121,
SsS™ "''lifl.
Hamadan, B72, 373,
Hart Fell, 168
Gmdeloope 1.. 214,
381, 428
Hartford, 507, 636,
Hamah, 35», 868.
^K «iiiidiu, Lm Ojoa
880 '
Hnrtebeeat,GL,R,
^B G^iiuR,TG,1g9
0(iMB„aM
Hamble B.. 140
Bsmburg, 73, 243,
488
Hartington, 117,143
^^F OnadluoB., ise
l3*iH*4
Hartland, 118, 139
^K .OiiidUUli.,18a
Hameln, 239. 2«2
Hartland Point, 134
Ga»lumL,S!8
G"Sh'R,Vs*
Hamilton, l*i, 160,
Hartlepool, 116,
Oiulata,4eg
Gnnthal. 418
130, 142
GuiUvii, its
Hamilton (Bemm-
Harwich, 116, 12^
BOl
Giutrow, 242, iel
doa). 667
Gwalior. sai, 383.
Hamilton (Canada),
Ha« Mta„ 69. 244,
619, 626
GniDsri, (I7S, N)l
ean.lHDn (Tasm.),
QjDiBS PaH, :si,
B»8lingden,117,1^9
Hamlets, Tower,
GnapsrS R flOl
GnmlBTiii C, 441,
Haiirlqi, !21. !!S.
Han,n,;, 216, 225
Hatberlelgh, 110
HsomR.SW
Hultla I BJSs
GunflUiu, aes, 290
13adtili.Bt™, 14S.
llaut Hhln. 198
aaatem.]|^ 603,
14B.160
Hamio L., 876. 428
608. 6W
HadBrelElHn. 239
Halite Lo^e,"l99
eadleigli,116,l*l
606,684
Haute Mame, 193
503,667
HndraiuBQt, Wi,
Hampton, 119, 140
Haute SaOna. 108
oimy«qim,sv(i,s7r.
HsmptoD, LltllB,
HanW Vienna, 199
toi'
HmnialM-.Sll
lie, 140
Hante. Ali«s, IBS,
Hseae. The, Ml
Han R. 421
"STmi" °' "''
2^2, 839
Hai>KlangR,421
Han tea Pn«D6ea
^ BBb1)to,Ma.38t
Hi«u<u»<i. JUS, SM
H^.B,iiw.ati.m^ w - ^m
650
IKDEX.
Havana, 603, 562,
563
Havant, 116. 140
Havel R, 262
Haverfurdwest,
119, 138
Haverhill, 115. 141
Havre, Le, 196, 200,
205
Hawaii I., 628
Hawarden, 119, 188
Hawes, 115, 141
Haweswater L., 142
Hawick, 145, 148
Hawke'8 Bay, 616
Hawkesbury R ,677
Hay, 115, 139
Hazebroack, 196,
208 225
Hebnde8ls,66,156
Hebrides, New, Is.,
603, 619
Hebron or EI Ehaia,
360, 363, 456
Hebron (Labrador),
530
Hechingen, 239,263
Hecla M., 71, 281
Hedjaz, 859. 360,
370
Heidelberg, 250,
251, 263
Heilbronn, 250, 263
Heiligenstadt, 239
Helder,221,222,224
Helder Point, 223
HelderStr., 224
Helena, 507, 536
Helena, St, 99, 441
Helensburgh, 146,
151, 160
Helens, St., Mt. , 506
Helicon M., 301
Heligoland I., 93
Hellada R., 302
Hellenic Mts., 311
Helles Boumu C,
810
Hellespont or Dar-
danelles, 67, 310,
365
Hellin, 178, 186
Hehne R. 262
Helmsdale, 147, 159
Helmsley, 115, 141
Helmstadt, 242, 262
Helmnnd R, 852,
428
Helsingborg, 336
Helsingfors,73,319,
822, 327
Helstone, 116, 139
Helvellyn M., 136
Helvetian Alps, 274
Hemel Hempstead,
119
Hems, 360, 368
Heng, 421
Heng-chow, 407
Henley, 118, 140
Henley - in - Arden,
118, 139
Herat, 376, 427
Herault, 197
HeraultR, 207
Hercynio-C^uTiathi-
an Mts., 69, 260
Hereford, 117, 125
Herencia, 179, 185
Herford, 289, 262
Herirood R, 352,
427
Herisau, 263, 272,
273
Hermaness C, 156
Hermanstadt, 257,
259,264
Hermon Mt., 349
Hermopolis, 299,
300
HemadR, 264
HemeR, 115, 140
Hemosand, 73, 337
Hermhnt, 531
Hersfield, 239, 263
Herstal, 215
Hertford, 118, 131,
140
Herts or Hertford-
shire, 118, 131
Hervey's Is., 629,
630
Herzegovina, 307
Hesbeiya, 880
Hesperian Mts., 68,
184
Hesse-Cassel, 239
Hesse - Darmstadt,
251
Hesse - Homborg,
239
Hexham, 114, 142
Hidalgo, 551
Hiego, 437
Hi^res, 198, 208
Hieres Is., 204
Hiero I., 188
Highworth, 116
Hildboi^hausen,
242, 262
Hildesheim, 239,
262
Hillah,860,364,380
Hillsborough, 163,
171
Himalaya Mts. , 849,
350, 418, 670
Hinares R, 185
Hinckley, 118, 128,
142
Hindu Knsh Mts.,
847,849
Hindustan, 346, 381
Hindustan Plain,
847
Hingham, 116
Hinojosa, 178, 185
HirepoU, 308, 812
Hir8chbeiig,238,261
Hirsova, 264, 808
Hit, 360, 380
Hitchin, 118, 141
Hitteren I., 338
Hi2jL,141
Hoai-king, 407, 421
Hoang-Ho R, 347,
351, 852, 418, 419,
421
Hobart Town, 614,
615
Ho-Chan Mt., 350
Hoddesdon,118,140
Hof, 250, 262
HogsmiU R, 140
Hohenzollem, 239
Hokitiki, 616, 617
Holguin, 65, 562
Holland, 65, 220
Holland N., 221
Hollands., 221
Holstein, 239
Holt, 115, 141
Holy I., 134
Holyhead, 119, 133,
138
Holyhead I., 134
HolyweU, 119, 132,
138
Holzemme R, 262
Holzemplotz R. , 262
Homburg, 239, 263
Homs, 880
Ho-nan, 407
Honda, 576. 601
Honda R, 559
Honduras, 503. 557
Honduras, British,
503, 557
Honduras O., 558
Honfleur, 196
Hong-chow, 421
Hong-Kong, 93, 410
Hong-tseL., 410
Honlton, 116, 140
Honolulu, 629
Honor R., 172
Hood Mt., 506
Hook of Holland,
223
Hooker Mt., 506,
527
Hoo-nan, 407
Hoo-Pe, 407
Hoom, 221, 222, 224
HoomDiepR,224,
263
Hopedale. 530
HorebMt.849
Horn C, 569
Horn G. (DenmarkX
231
Horn L., 77
Homcastle, 115, 141
Horsel R, 263
Horsens, 230
Horsham, 115, 140
Hottentot Country,
439, 482
Howden, 115, 141
Howe C, 607
Howth Head, 169
Hoy, 155
Huamanga, 585
Huancavelica, 585,
586
Huanuco, 585, 601
Huanuco M., 570
Huari, 585, 601
Huaseo, 592, 601
Huauri, 601
Huddersfield, 115,
121, 141
Hudson B., 505. 517
Hudson Bay Terri-
tory. 517, 529
Hudson R, 507
Hudson Str., 502,
505
Hue, 346, 401, 405
Huelva, 178, 185
Huercalovera, 178,
186
Huesca, 179, 196
Hughli R, 346
Hull, 115, 121, 141-
Hull R, 141
Humber Mouth, 135
Humber R, 141
Humboldt B., 540
Hungary, 256
Hungerford, 116,
140
Hunse R, 74, 224,
263
Huntingdon, 118,
129 141
Huntiy, 146, 159
Huron L., 608, 521,
526
Hurst, 116, 140
Huy, 215, 216, 225
Hwai-ngan,407,421
Hydra, 299, 300
Hymettus M., 301
Hythe, 116, 122, 140
Ibar R, 264, 812
Ibi-6aminPas8;850
Ibrail or Brahilov,
264, 808, 810
lea, 685
Iceland I., 66, 281
Icy C, 606
Ida M., 811
iiij-riu, -JLH
iiuiK.. lies
iiiuBiiiu B., sas
IbnluBler. 116. 13»
li.iuuicu L.. MH
Iltchi. 42S, iiH
IruDm-Jii/W, Sll
liuuniK. Gl, L, M]
IulIi.wwI., ISS
lui'^kinlliL, lU
Inili>,StS, 981
ludii, Britinh, 13
lodluiijvolii, £07^
Iud[«, Wot,
»>£, Ml
I iidigirlu B. . S
iiipiR. ass
nvareMgai, 6Hi,
uverftoiduD. 14lt,
B., Mi, M5
■ ■ 1 B., 827
ii,is(F..rf)i;,iMi
ludiu R, Ul, Si!,
lUVEtllMt, IM, IM,
InvsrmT. 140, ISB
Inua 1.. IH
luuiis &B1, 07, mis,
]tm CitJ, 6»
Itfumlnu, 4U, t5i,
lliHwich, lis, 1S2,
ll-ut E., SE8
Irtk-Ajeiui, ST3
Imk Anbl, UD
IrknuL. SU, 4
Iran G»t«, 811
JilnlpAr, m, S9U,
Jnliimiitui B., SH
Jolon IL, ISA
Jiil]nu-.b L., S13
Jii|iu<^ B.. 31:!
Jimtn Di Jhhjh u.
Jsluu. !40. MB
JuTMUr, 351,
in'k, SOT
Jelxdl, S
•8l^'r™R..li
rigi I., or. isg
[vligbne, ItB, 141
_ — el-AWidir. MS
Jebel Gbarib Jl.
4U
Jibsl Ifhnzu X.
4U
jBbal HilUin, 404
JtdK, I5S
Jedbuneh,
IM
Jeddo-wi YmUd
148,
652
INDEX.
JefTerson City, 507,
536
Jefferson Mt. , 506
JeflremoY, 320, 328
Jehlnm R., 404
Jelalabad, 376, 404
Jelatom, 320, 329
Jeletz or Eletz, 320,
323, 328
Jenneh, 473, 481
Jerbahl.,441
Jersey I., 134
Jersey City, 535
Jersey, New, 634,
535
Jerte R., 185
Jerusalem, 360, 363,
380
Jemsalem (Africa),
483
Jesi, 282, 200
Jesiret-el-Arab, 367
Jesso I.—8ee Tesso
Jeysalmir, 383
Jhalawan, 378
Jhansi, 351, 405
Jhind, 383, 387, 405
Jiddah,360,364,380
Jiga-Gungar, 418
Jigansk, 433
Jitomir, 76, 321,
324, 328
Jodhpur, 351, 383,
387, 404
John, St, Antigua,
563
John, St (New
Brunswick), 519
John's, St, New-
foundland, 519,
520
John, St, R., 520,
521
Jobnstaayen, 146
Johnstone, 145, 160
Johore, 405
Joigny, 199, 206
Jokulsflord 01., 339
Joliba a, 444, 474,
481
J<Jnk»ping, 837, 340
Jordan R., 352,865,
380
Jordan (U.S.X 606
Joudpore — see Jod-
pur
Josef, St, Pen., 569
Juan de Fuca Str.,
540, 541
Juan Fernandez I.,
569
Jug R., 827
Juggernaut — see
Jagannath
Juicza, 307, 312
JaiiieB.,206
Jt^juy, 571, 596, 601
Julalabad, 376
Julamerk, 359
Julian Alps, 260
Julianshaab, 234,
503, 531
Jumilla, 178, 186
Jumna R. — see
Jamna
Jungbunzlau, 262
Jungfrau M., 274
Jura, 198
Jura I., 156
JuraMts., 205
Jura Sound, 156
JUterbogk, 238, 262
Juticalpa, 557
Jutland, 229, 280
JyhoonR., 351,380
Kabara, 473, 474,
481
Eabompo, 493
Kabul. 346, 351,
376, 404
Kabul R, 404
Kabushan, 372, 427,
Kachb, 383
Kachh O., 348, 383,
389
Kachh, Gundava,
378
Kachh, R&n of, 389,
390
Kaffa, 321, 328
Kafflrland, 439
Kafflrstan, 425
Kaffiraria, 484. 485
Kagosima, 434
Kai-fong, 351, 407,
409, 421
Kairwan, 462
Kalsarieh, 360, 361,
880
Kaiserslautem, 250,
263
Kaka, 451, 461
Kakunda, 478, 481
Kalagria C, 310
Kalahari Desert,
446, 490, 491, 492
Kalbe, 239, 262
Kalefat, 308, 312
Kali NadiR., 405
Kalikut, 382, 386,
404
Kalish or Kaliscz,
261, 821, 324
Kalmar, 337, 340
Kalmar Sd., 388
Kalna, 382, 384, 404
Kaluga, 76, 820, 323,
829
KalwaiT, 821, 327
Kama R., 329, 404
KamaUa, 470, 481
Kamienetz, 76, 321,
324, 328
Kampen, 222, 224
KamtchikR.,312
Kampti, 404
Kamtschatka, 345,
347, 348, 350
Kamtschatka Sea,
848
Kamyschin, 320
Kan R., 421
Kanagawa, 434
Kanai I., 628
Kanara Co., 404
Kandahar, 352, 376,
428
Kandeish, 889, 404
Kandy, 382, 387
Kanem, 473
KanhanR, 404
Kanhpur, 382, 384,
404
Kanin C, 325
Kankari, 360, 380
Kannaland, 486
Kansas, 536
Kan-su, 351,407
Kanturk, 164
Kanzas R., 541
Kaole, 500
Kao-you L., 410
KaoyungL., 410
Kara G., 348
Kara Hissar, 360,
361, 380
Kara Sea, 326
Karachi, 382, 386,
404
Karak I., 373
Karakal, 308
Karakorum, 433
Karakorum Mts.,
349, 350, 418, 422
Karaman, 360
KaramangnaiL. ,845
Karanovacz, 264
Karasch R., 264
Karask R, 828
Kara-8uR.,880,881
Karasa-basftr, 821,
328
Karatdier, 820
Karikal,88S
Karlsbad, 256
KarlsbuTg, 257, 264
KarlstadC S57, 264
Kamatak, 882, 889
Eamul. 882
Karotona, 828
Karroo, GreaL 486,
487
Kara, 869, 801
KaxystOfSM
Ka8a]i,8S0,8IS
Ea8Uii,87M78,«f7
Kashan, 372, 373
Kashgar, 346, 352,
423, 424, 428
Kasligaria. 346, 349,
415, 422
Kashmir, 851, 352,
383, 387, 404, 423,
424
Kasimov, 320, 329
Kastamuni, 360, 380
Katak, 851, 382
Katema, 491, 493
Kathiawad Pen. ,389
Katonga, 491
Katrine L., 160
Katunsk M., 350
Katzbach R., 261
Kavallo, 308, 812
Kavallo G., 312
KaveriR,351,382,
404
Kazan, 76
Kazanlik, 308, 312
KazbekMts., 70,326
Kaz6, 500
Keady, 163, 171
Keczkemet, 257,259,
264
Kedje, 378, 879, 381
KedronR,360, 880
Kehveh R, 846
Kei, Great, R, 486
Keidaun, 827
Keighley, 115, 141
Keiskamma R., 486
Keith, 146, 158, 159
Kelat,S46,878,S79,
404
Kelat-i-GhilJie, 428
Keli-Shin Pass, 350
Kells, 164, 171
Kelso, 145, 148, 158
Kelvin R, 160
Kemi R, 827
Kemljoki, 827
Kemmoo, 470, 481
Kempen, 287, 261
Kempten, 250, 265
Ken R ,186. 100
Ken or Kent R, 188
Kendal, 117, 126,188
Keiieh,401
KeniaMt.,440
Kenilworth, 118
Kenmare, 104, ITS
Kenxnan R, 1701
172
Kennebee R, 642
Kennedy G9l, 606
Kent, 116, 12S
Kentucky, 6S0
XeolnaL680
KericbS B
r Ite™aBa.mai, ri, I KilblmlB, 145, 160
I{lrg1iIzSt[>ppe, 439|KD!&daIii R. 346. H
KoS.m
Ubride. 145
Klr|,hl, Teml;or>-,
KdIii'd, 883
KenyHMd, 109
KnbrldeW.,H6
Kirin-ma, 361, 416,
Koig.evl.,68,S20
Kortoh, 8111, S23
lldaifl, 164, 173
lt.rWiStr.,fl7,SM
ilhun 115, 141
Kirk-Killsaia, 808,
ImTioi ^*'' '^''
Ke»be1BuhiI.,4ie
ui<i,gk m, aia.
DlobfSg, 401, 493
Suwlnk, U7, ler,
tuSmdJ™ 'Mt.
Klrkhy, 116, 141
olORIH, 286, E<4
1S8
Klrkby-ln-AgkDdd,
olonit»C 830 82«
K8ttBrtag,ua.l«l,
KUkennr. IM, 107,
olpinC.ati
KJrktIy-LalisdiJs,
OlyB«R.863
Kow-MuiB, tU
KiMii. 116. 171
DmidngiK.tS!
iiS»
KUUli S,. 183
Kirkhy- Stephen.
oaom. S67, 368,
EiUsUw, ISO. 1T2
117,188
264
KillamsT, 1«4, 168,
ElrkcAldy, 146, 161,
Kong Mte.. 410, 467,
Khimil, 4!S, 428
172
474
Khu.lB,30S
KlItamoT L., 173
Klrksodbrigbt, 145,
Kongbo R., 405
Killenaule, 163
EoUeb, 360,801, E3S
KhsTkoT. 78. '821,
KlUybfgE., 183, 171
KlfkLulSloch,' 146,
Konjggratz. 362
8IH. 828
Krtpmllosi 165,172
Kliartiim, 4B1. 452,
2S9.S81
KIrkWill, 147, 16S
Kimtak-Otlkl U.,
Knnish. ISi, 17!
Kiiri9Riuir,146,16»
70, 82e
Kh.taBt.au, ' sai.
KH.j-th;H3,i61,180
Kjsarieb, 360, 369,
Konken, 332
S8S, 3SB
KilwlnniUB, US, 160
EonkBO Co.. 888,
KhuwKk, 426
KlsbfMDorKlcba-
KhBKOI,, TB, S!l,
K'LS,ura''pt.,s26
SODlfU. 473
B24, SSS
KlTicsrilne(pBrth),
KiihS I., 370, 373
KooD R, 371, 372
KhBraon Btr.. 67.
146,169
Kieslngeli, 260, 268
KincvdlDeahlce,
Klttart4M
KlliD-piB, 319
i:sc»r™
KM™,8S3,«S,4W
KiBgCSlS
KiStokkR.sei,
Ktadl, Sn, 372
Klnshom, 1«, 16B
852.880
Koi^Dfon, 43R, 450.
KhSS^*»i*«S,
KingklQblBg Fd..
Kiill Onian R,
£31
871, 427
Koroko, 163
*K
KiiiB-fcl-tm,«6,421
Kkliiir,3M.B25,sa8
King's County. 164
K]flgenmrt,266,264
Khonuiin, B53. S72
KiDg'i R. 172
Klarenzi C. 301
Koron G., 301
Klng9=l»«,lie,llfl
KUttso. 25fl, S62
KoTOb R, 284
Khotu, 433,(34.428
King»™urt,lSS,ni
Korotohs, BSO. Si 3
Kltgrtflnflunalui),
257, 260. 364
Koreoubid, 371.
KmUum, 978, 428
6^ 603
KleveoR.Bffl
Khnlum'B.. 428
KlngiWu (Sumy),
KUuniB R, 830
K(«rfiiikoMt.,eOtl
Rhuimui. 861, 371
116, 123, 140
lilluteh, 807
KoMlo R, 264
KbTber Fua. SM
KLlUlta, 414, 4S«,
KlngKton {B, Ttn-
KKutahewekei M.,
KMlln, 238, 301
,:S,t,m
SA^Hoii. 201. 303.
480. 43S
Kl,«lnltz E„ Sei,
SIS
itit.h!iie.4ai
141
Koibondll, 808. 313;
Killing R, 491
Kn^e.torongb.
Kortoimt 76, 330.'
s;«;'i,
Kington, IIT
116 IBl. 142
KBigfilon, 189
K<Mli™« R. 81»
sisii^i;.
israi:'!!%'g.
Knaivllla, 6AS
KnutaW. in
Kobili,8Sl
ISS:S:S
Kl«ig->n, SSI. 407
Kobhe, 473. «T4
KUDg-tung, 415
Kinn^inl Ilri>.l, Ut.
Kdii-.
tii.iKl.., ilU, i^Fi
l£.>illn.), or Cfon-
KlV'-^ ^1
m,is»
, Kiel, 23S, 241
KiBindHl,244
^B Xl»-<:1><><'.407.408
Ktutt^K ^H
^^LBIbt. 821. »U. US
Rlgliml ^H
^Ribuui-Sbim ua.
Klol— 70 ^H
EngoJnBCL tM, \ Inih-Behu, 3S1,
311 S33
Kntara, 904, SOS, CuahUmk, Kt
S13 giuttin, 238. Ml
Rnptakt Ula., B9, Sulils, S32, S2S
leo, S11 I Sata.)*, MO, Ml,
KiuDO ' Blobodlk, aso
IWBl-lin, 351, 407,
109
Sremnltz, 297,299,
Kwel-yang, 341,107,
!M
KteBniKjl.M»,S68
U FecM HW!4, 100,
SSa.4M *
Ki(miUat,lSr,»59,
U Gniyara, 001
LaHogiieC.,80,101
KnwlE, BTl
U Li&rtad. M7
KroJ».30T. 308, 811
U Paz, Ml, 5B1,
KrauLO. 268
652, baa
EroBcbeiuti, 308,
UPiwbla,661,5S2
Kuarata. 4S9, Ul
La Bouimtn Ut,
Kuba. 325, S3S
KBta'R.,328
U Scnma, 592
LaUnioCfiS?
Kutos^I^KTS
Luland 1., 80, 281
Kuia, ns. IT*
Ubrador, 60*. 617,
KDeT>-luaUta.,8tll,
tin, lis
Labiun L. 826
Kulm, EST, 201
I^cadlvesli., 388,
Kulpa R., EH
389
Lachw, 388, 380
slSSjimgi M.,
lAcouU. S99
Knndm SB2, 4SB,
jutakb, 351
«dogan, 77,^329^
K™|ri5;t26;*S7
Kunto, 78
StS'"''''
KDTR.,Te.S!8,346,
319, M2
Lagpm 1^.100
Knrab R, 128
L^l R., 289
SiiraTlR.,S8(»
KurdiBtaiillte.,319
I^o,(aulnaa,,477
KurilstBB (Turk-
lagoa (Spain), 180
7-agtn (TurkfJ-), 508
Lib) 3&», 300
I^«0SB,,183
»."■«
LagQS G-, 312
Sis'"
EuTia Hula IbIw,
STO
Edi1ii,M0,11O
Kanbe«,42fi.ll7
Kunh«R.,i)7
LalcliQV, 502, 6IS
Knnt 120,328, aw
iSifiiS"
Ko™n«r"l.«8
Lambayequ^
Lambeth. 118, 123
Laniaus R, KM
Lan-cbow. lOT, 4
Lancutsr, 117, 128, I
uuceBtoQ (Taa-
iirenMWrk, 118,
LingeGeld Mts., TO
LangsimalUa. 239.
281
Langpott, 139
200 *
Laigna PI., 71
Langwartli IL, 111
0 I., 410
LaoD, 190, 203, 208
Laos. 100,116
Laacbua R, Ml
Lajbach. 75, 258,
Leamln^D, 110,
Uan« R, 172
Loao-Tong, 408, 40T
' — "-erliead, 110,
Lebedin, 321, 8
LeliTlja, ITS. If
'— «e, 232, 290
teigh, lir, 138
l^ighlln, 16*, ira
Ltighbin - BoEzard,
Ilcis^ter,' 103, 164,
Leiraio, 243, 213,
LelHU B., 2K
Lelth, 144, 14g
L^toieritE, 24G, S62
iiBilninbElil, see,
Ltitrbd, 16S
Lsnua II, TT, 3T«
UBbolB, 2M. MS,
Leu B-.'SSO, atl,
S5a,1S9
Lendfiun, Se2, 991
Iieoii(C9nLAiner.).
Lerina I., 3D4
iMlie, 14B, 168
5r Slivo ' :
LoveD (Dumbarton)
lay™ (EngL) H.,
Lnlngtan, S34
Leybtini, lis
Leydsn, 311, 222,
SM, 28S
Lllwrtail, S5T, SSI
LilmtlmB, 19Y, 20
Lichaeld, IIB, It
31)' ' *' ^'
Lt«gnltz, 208, 2<
Lille, T4, 190, S
Lima, esR, sas, e:
Limpopo R, 4S4,
LladlBfhrne L, 1
LlnguetUO., 31
LIdUthgow, I
jinvanO,
.ii<bnniG..60a,«05
Ltslowol, 16
LlUmy B., K
LlttDqnlha;, 501,509
LDchwlnODCli, 14
Lockecby, 14e, I
LodivB, IBT. K7
LoHtK!BnLi.,Btl,;
LogroBo, 17», 18i
LoEor, 404
LdlntC R., 2<lfl
Loir B., -m
Loire-etcher, 19
Lambak, 2ie
LDQhok E, «23, 81
Lumonil L-, 70. If
London (Ainer.
ti(itir]ondeiT7, Itl
arteriyC^M
Luiu; ■Mtltotd,
L.ing(jrd. IM,
LoogR . isB
LoopHaiLd, li
Looghboraogh, 118,
m, 142
LoDKhrea, ISi, ITl
Lonb, St, 4T0, 4S1
LoniaiHde Arcbip.
Louth'(C«.>, i
lioavlen, log,
liOratR., 837
l<ow AibbipQUfiO,
«%, «80
LamQ, BSE,
Loner KeIsw R.,
Loweston, IIG, m
14]
Lmtston Neu <
Laiembamg, S22,
Lniemboucg, Bol-
, LiSSS'lySSS
Lybiu Desert. 493
LfhiiD Hta., 4&3
hydaajl 118,' 18»
L;docb L , IW
LTme R, 140
. IIB.
LaCL^L, 2fiZ, S8B
LimDoid, III
DrmlDfton, 1 IB, 140
LyDeK, IM
Lynherk, 138, ise
' L B^, IIB,
Lyon, Tt, 198, SO!,
MaeniK.,2M
LisR-.aoS, 225
MaSadeokta. 3B0
LylUBton. 61 a
Mahunadi R. 861,
>tAuR,!2S
m™. Ert,, m
M.J.LR,3il,4M
M4cao,40J,*oe,421
aahluja L.. 873
MMeoL,«0
Ualdenbead, 116,
licasur, H2S
Ui^datone. 115, t!2,
Jt^LVA 117,
Ma^R,m
Macdmr, IM, 163,
882, 889, 4M
Micekt^ £82, m
Maine, G3i
Mai-gilUcuddy's
Mains at Loire, iOT
Beak. M., 68.170
Maira R, Ml
Mackeule R, 000,
008
Uatoo. ISS, £02,
Mnifn'rn.,M7,3S9
S07
MslUand, MO*
Haoiooni, 1«4, ITS
Majazelte R. 193
M»d»g«cat I., «B,
MEjiUL-aiFnal.,183
Ma<»i].i,,ses.'33o
MSoiota'.'4w!'49»*
MsdElra I's., 'l8S,
MSkriG.,^3l5
Mad™ R, 186
MllabarCoa=t.104
UadlBon, luiliini,
607, 630, 641
Males' ak.'sM.
MKdlBOn, Wlieon-
848, 8Sa, 400
bId, G3«, Ml
MsladetM or Pip
H>d<;D R 20§
K.d™, SBS. 8SS,
Malaga,""!?^ 181,
880,404
180
M41arL.,T3,T0,SSB
m
Malar P„ 847
M«d«Vi«ieR,18S
Malaya, S4S, 348,
Madrid, 70,170,179,
101
lB0,i82 186
»^y.l.,B«.^eitt
S^^i^SIb""'^^
a1c£m> L.. S44
MmIstI,., 830,340
aldiTee Is,, 888.
UacBtncht, 74, 32S,
W3. SK
Maldou, 115, 1S2,
Migadoio, 406,407
l^dala, 4M
HMdonado, OOfi, 601
Magdalena, 070
MaedslOM R, 671.
Maim Head. 66, 169
6UI
Mallow, 164,17!
m.l3ft
Mai mbe, 330, 33 7. 340
Magellan, 8tr.. 008,
040
Malni Jaroalui-iu,
MngrriloIfl.,Efi.3S9
"^"m^'"''*''
kSS^S
MoBh'eni. I6J, in
uit-h^Srolt, 103,
M»ltt)n, How, US,
aK.,,,»
MalvOTl, Gt, lift
V UiIvgit: Hills, ISB
llspni:lin B., 503
Marniorsl.,364
llndbanec. 198.2118
^ »ul»», fl4T, 389
Manaom, k«i of.
Maui^idiiie, 145, leo
MiniBB, .100,408
asS»)-to.5ra,s"7.
sia, 384, aas, aao
M.Mr B«7T, 244
MiUdd™ R, SOI
Marne, 198
Maul I„ 82*
Mm I., as, 134
MKnuajbo (L. and
Mamea.aOB
Mania. S92
Hiui Pus, tIS
G.). fiJl, fl''l
MamccD, 439, 4SS.
MaulaR,891
MuiiarG.. 348,880
Manrilius Is., 94
KHMJ L, use, SS8
^^*^' '"' "°'
MaroBUR.aSB
uoBBgiu, S03, m
Maranhio, 531, 582,
M«oa R.. SB4
Hb^uL., 659
MaroB Vasnrhelr,
Maw B., 138 '
ii^^i.g«k
M-raBon B., 688,
267,284
Marqaesas I.. 8!B.
UUUDZUI, 44!
Mirash,* SSI. 300,
686
May i ISB
Maybo a. 145, 18U
"^Ml'"" ^^'
M^thon, MB. SOO,
Nlli^llU,^2gS?28T
ManMor, im
Miraeille, 198. SDi.
Ma™ 239°l8S
ManoliB, 196
Majenca or Maim.
IIM, 188
.,;»,,;».'."
Maniall At=hlp.,
231, 252, 2S3
MMChBtor CUB.),
MBrbnrg, 239, m
MamiM, 290
MaJanne'R, 208
S34, B37. S40
Man*, 118. 141
Maraivan, 360, 380
Majq R, 2113
iiiidiii. S8T. S4a
Marta, ass
Mahi R^ R. 283
lU]iilus,4TS
MajEQQth, 184. jri
Majo, IBS
Hajntjamba. 801
^ HidBisr/sie, SSI,
SFt!C
Marti'gnes, 108, 208
Mayottal., 442
^L 401
Maypu B., 601
MBrtngo, asa. 283,
Maitiiilqufl L, 914.
■ m
661, 682
^B iunmaoii!sa.,ies,
Murgarita, 678
MnrtM, 178, 186
H 290
Ma^iTL, B5i.
MajBtlan, 641, 661,
^H Uugiiar. SS8,B«I,
6flB
1B7. 173
652. 668
^m 4H
Margate, 115, 122.
H lh»gei>I.,S3ll
140
Maiyland, 635
■dl^i^Ao^as
P£^r.^.o,iii
HurgllllBD, 4S6, 428
Meaae B-, 142
MarUnofl Is.. ASS
Mjuyport,117. 127,
Maith, 184
■^ sss
MariatoPt.SOS
MfatliW..lB4
^~ MmImIoI.BM
Marie, at, r., 442
Matui. 199. 208
Usui 11*. «»t. 6(iT
Hm;aa.8B0.364.5fln
BMipfll. 888
Ma«en»,47S,48l
Itulua, B«l}, m-,
Mnahini, 116, 141
SIB, 318. 226
880
MaakL.,m
Uaasa dl Camra.
Uinltobil, Gir, B18,
litz, 237,243
m
S81
282, 285. 289
Meoltlsnbqrg -Sdi-
MmitobaL.SOS
Marignmo I., 681,
Maaaaebnaetta. 634
wprtn, 237, S42
iBi
Medellin. 801
M^ll'R.^i'sfl"
SOS. 640
Medina, 3 BO. 384
Mm™ HamQton,
Mgaaoiiali. 461, 469
Miasaya, 667
MadlnadsBioSew.,
1T8, 1S8
MKrHet - Dmytm.
MBaaBy«Mt,658
MadiQii-BldDnla,178
Minnn. 179, IBS
Mms. La, 19B. MS,
Uaiket - Hubor-
Matsbele, 492
MBdlDBt-al-FtroiM,,
MB
461, 452, 461
Matkel mil. WS
Mat«JaC..8fl
W)D, 419
M«n«Ileia, n;, U7,
MnrkBt-Ruen, US.
87, 34T, 869, 862,
443
Mirkot-Weiebton,
eS;|'"
Hadl°n1>R..484
Medlook R, 19S
Huitcbuurill. 34S,
IbQo^ m,.U7.
M«dwi)rR,14IJ
abi, 416, 4111
540
M«nM. 542. 981
UiDtuB, ssa, ta*.
'SSW
141
H>ta>iIO,S08.Sl!
Utaa R. 139
KuytckR.SSS
M«lr>».Qt..t.ll»;
UatU d^niw, 682.
Maln«nM,,348.S61,
Bmu, iia, «v«UJ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^|^^^^^^^^«
Utluai, 242, 2(5,
Mllin, 75, 282. 284.
Mltmvfci, 567. 2*4
Mi
290, 291
MittlL, 319, S22.
MflJilODH. 5B»
SfiB, 360
MildenhUI, 115
Massaaim Se9
Mlltvrslda, 142. 262
"f.TA.V^J
MesaiDB, 2B3, 287
uiirotd'Htven, 135.
Mitylon. !.. !WB
MaHfiiiStr.,tr;,2SS
138
MIzan HBRd. 109
Uelineais, Ma
MeBt™, 282, 291
Mobile, 63B, 338,
MUttary Frnntier.
541.542
Mel combe -BcgU,
Methv^. lie, 159
Mod*. 361, 354,
Hetnhanny, 491,
MilkoT R.. 2M
Mtldnm, OW, HB.
UmedgBvilia, 535,
Modeni. 76, 2Sl,
231, 2SS, 2M)
Metz, 108. 203, 208,
MUlport, 146, IBO
ModarIt.,'208.E63
MbIcdW. S20. 829
Mills, New,U5, 100
Modica.283
Melil, 282, wo
MLIlBtreat. IM, 172
HelilAh Q . tu
Meuleboka, s'l5, S2S
Milnathort, 14fi, IBO
Mofrut.'itB, 119
MtliDdn, 498, 107
Mauitha. 198
MUoI.,SI)i
Mognclor, 4«3
Mtgam.^ M9
Meurtha R., MS
Mm«nM.,4e4
Mogllllev. 7B, 321,
JKltshiun, lid, ISA
Mittwatdl, 242, 262
334, a2a_
Milvertnn, 110, 139
Mil»>iikaB,53B,fi3e.
MoSS sia; iw
Malto»,'l4S, 148,
Mewir, S61
M.-.liawk R, 540
Moina B., 206
MelWn-Kowbny,
tJod, 603, BM
Miii>s Qenwa. 682,
Hail<^. BOS, B51.
mSS; 17S
Melon, IM, 205
Minch, LitUa, 167
Moksh.R.329
Mel.UBa.6(ir
M«L (district),
MLnoh,The,167
Mol«, 282, 2a0
SS3:kS.
Mincbiu Himpton,
MolJ, UB 132. 138
Uoldsn R, S62
UeineL,2a7,24a.32T
Mlnaio it., 290
MoldBvta, 807. aoB
M™mingeD, a».
Miie, 197, 207
Mindanso 1., B2«
HenphiB. E3S, SSB,
Me^r^Tes.'ias, 208
MoUeBon'M,,'2W
MedD H., Caren-
MindifMt..440,474
MoltoD, South,! IB
Mfludo, SM
MIndoro I., 626
Uolacua ia, (122.
Meoul Btt„ ISS
Minarvtno, 282, 290
Mende, 167, 207
Mlnbo, 180
Mombsi, 4M, 407
Ueadergh a, SOD,
Miobo B., T5, 186
Mompot 571. t-.e
iohael, k I., IBS
Mlnnuot;. B30
Monngbin,163,lfl«,
Mendip HlUa, 13S
Mbioria I., 67, 1B3
ieWgan, B38
MeodoIB, g»li"
lcl!ilHiL„608
Mbu^7ll. 321,324,
M™in,21B,22B
iChOBOUl, BBl
MoossUr (Tnrkert
Meatoiie. 188, 203,
Mloam II, 76, 339
Wdelburg,74,a2l,
Mim, 189. IBB
Mon<a«lleii. iSt,
Meppel, 222. 421
223,220
Mint. 351.382, 385,
290
Mare, 11«
Middle I.. «1B
40B
Mondiobo,«l,40S,
Meigau. 4». 421
Middleboig (U.8.X
MeifulAKlL.agg
Uilgocod, 821, 828
Miropolii320,S2g
MoDdit, ITS, 1B6
MenV STB, 677
Ulddlem, 119
Mond<^B.,76,lM
Mettonath, UB. 133
Middlelon, 117,128,
Mimpnt. 132, 834,
MmdDoedo. 177,
Mark B., 335
4M
ManB., I8i
UlddiatDU (U.S.).
MinR. 290
MnngDite, MS, Bt7,
H8i«.4Sl,«2.4fll
Mi»honm« B., 1«
ail 416 '
Marrlmac B.. S40
Mlddlewioh, 117.
Miikolt^ U7, US,
Mongol)* Proper,
BM
41«
Hidhnnt, IIB, 140
MiBlHlpi^,B04.BU
Montmorilloo, 109,
M«r.eyR,l88
Midi, Mont. 204
Ui»d8alpp1B,Mr,
203
Midia,81»
633,041
SlISJi^dVlUlB,
MidDnisa,ar7
Ulsaonri, ts«
126,139
134, 139
Mian R. 189
Mlwmi R, Mt
Merv, 425, *M
MigliBsi R., 312
6o^(».»a
Mlrtia.lN
Uaschio B., 2»1 HljareiR,18S |Httofa>U&,«(«
Metbed, SM, 373
\Milbg™Port.llB
17J
HartiMina, IVT, m,
lTudtLlll,m
660
INDEX.
Kaseby, 118, 129,141
Nashua, f>34
NashviUe, 607, 635,
539, 541
Nasik, 882, 386
Nassau, 239
Nassau (Bahamas),
562, 563
Natal, 94, 439, 440
Natal (BrazU), 581,
582
Natchez, 533, 535,
538, 541
Nathe R., 262
NatunaL, 625
NauC.,66, 288
Naumburg, 239,241,
262
Nauplia, 299, 300
Navan, 164, 166, 171
Navarra, 179
Navarrino, 299, 300
NaverL., 160
Navigators Is., 629,
630
Naxia, 299
Naxos I. , 301
Nazareth, 860, 362
Naze C, 134
Naze or Lindesnaes
C, 66, 338
NeaghL.,76, 173
Neagh Mts., 170
Neath, 119, 184, 139
Neath R., 139
Nebal R, 262
Nebraska, 536
NeckarR., 263
Nedda R., 263
Needles C, 134
Negrais C, 348, 388
Negro C, 441
Negropout I., or
Eubcea, 67, 301
Neheemabad, 871
Neilston, 145, 160
Neisse, 238, 240, 262
Neisse R., 262
Nelson, 616
Nelson R., 508
Nen R., 141
Nenagh, 165, 168,
172
Nenagh R., 172
Nene R., 141
Neokhorio, 308, 812
Nepakto, 299
Nepal, 883
Nephin-BegM.,170
Nerac, 197, 207
Nerbudda R., 851,
404
Nerl R., 829
Nertchlnsk, 421,
429, 430
KerasasL R, 328
Nervion R., 75, 185
Nesenbach R., 263
Ness L., 160
Ness R., 159
Neston, 117, 138
Nethan R., 160
Nethe R, 225
Nethe, Little, R,
225
Netherlands. 65, 220
Nette R., 263
NetzeR, 261
Neuburg, 250, 264
Neuch&tel, 263, 272,
273
Neuch&tel L., 77,
276
Neusatz, 257, 259,
264
Neuse R, 541
Neusiedl See, 77,
265
Neusohl, 264
Neuss, 239, 263
Neustadt, 256, 262
Neustadt - au - der-
Hardt, 263
Neu Strelitz, 73,
242, 243, 262
Neutitschein, 256,
261
Neuwied, 239, 263
Neva R, 73, 827
Nevada, 536
Nevada Mts., 534
Nevada de Sasagu-
anca M., 570
Nevada de Toluca,
- M., 553
Nevers, 74, 199, 204,
206
Neviansk, 820
Nevis, Ben, M., 68,
157
New Albany, 586
New Amsterdam,
579
New Archangel, 586
New Bedford, 685,
537, 540
New Britain I., 620
New Brunswick,
505, 517, 519
New Caledonia, 214,
619
New Guatemala, S57
New Guinea, 620
N e wHampshiTe,534
New Hebrides I.,
619
New Holland, 613
New Ireland, 620
New Jersey, 634,
535
New Santander, 651
New Iaou, 651
New London, 535
New Market, 118,
141
New Mexico, 536
New Orleans, 507,
509, 536, 539, 541
New Plymouth, 616
New Providence I.,
561
New South Wales,
603, 605, 612, 613
New Westminster,
507, 527, 541
New York, 509, 584,
535, 537, 540
New Zealand, 612,
613, 615, 629
Newark, 117, 127,
141
Newark (Amer.),
535, 538
Newburgh, 145, 159
Newbury, 116, 140
Newbury Port, 534
Newcastle (Aus-
tral.), 604
Newcastle (Irel.),
165, 172
Newcastle (on
Tyne), 114, 120,
142
Newcastle - under -
Lyne, 117, 128,
141
NewenhamC, 505
Newfoundland I.,
605, 518, 519. 520
Newhaven, 116, 140,
144, 159
Newhaven (U.S.),
535, 637, 540
Newport (Isle of
Wight, 116, 123
Newport (Mon-
moathshireX 117,
125, 139
Newport/Shropsh.),
117
Newport (U.8.),635,
587,540
Newport - Pagnell,
118, 141
Newry, 163, 166, 171
Newry R, 171
Newton (Lancas.),
117, 138
Newton (WalesX
119, 183
Newton Abbots 116,
140
Newton-Axdi, IfiL
in
Newton-Bainr, IM,
172
Newton-LiiiiAfidar.
Newton - Stewart^
145, 149, 160
Newton - Stewart
(Ire.), 163, 171
Newtown - Hamil-
ton, 163
NgamiL.,445, 446
Ngan-king, 351. 421
Niagara, 519. 540
Niagara Falls, 519
Niagara R, 519, 520
Nicaragua, 503, 557,
558
Nicaragua L., 504,
508, 559
Nicaragua Plain, 558
Nicaria L, 364
Nicastro, 282, 290
Nice, 198, 202, 208
Nicobar I9., 234,
388, 889
Nicolaiev, 821, 824,
328
Nicolsburg, 256, 264
Nicopoli, 264, 308,
309, 812
Nicosia, 283
Nicoya G., 558
Nidd R, 142
Niemen R, 73, 827
Nieschin or Nejin,
321, 828
Niesenbecke R. , 261
Nieuburg, 250, 262
Nieuveld Mts., 486
Nieuwer - Amstel,
221
Nievoli R., 289
Ni6vre, 199
NiewiezaR, 827
Niger R, 440, 444,
469, 474
Nigritia,439.440,472
Nijar, 178, 186
Njjni-LomoT, 820,
829
NiiJni-Novgorod, 76,
820, 823, 828
Nljni-Tagilsk, 820,
433
Nikolaieysk, 851,
421,439
Nfle R, 489. 440,
448, 444, 461, 601
Nik^ Mts., 880
NilkaiiuvB.,406
NiiiiQg:iMn,92S,SSL
824
Nlital,10r.9ei,907
inDCVcli,881
TOlnounA MIT. ^am
407^
INDEX.
661
Nissa, 264. 308, 312
KissawaB., 2C4
NithR..160
Niti Pass, 350
Niuk L., 76
NiveUea, 215, 225
Nizza - Monferrato,
282, 290
Nocera, 282, 290
N(^ent - le - Rotrou,
196, 206
Noirmoutier, 197
Noinnoutier I. , 204
Nola, 282, 289
Nonette R , 206
Nord, 196
Nord C, 66, 231
Korden, 239, 263
Nordhansen, 239,
241. 262
Kordheim, 262
NordkynC.,66, 838
Nordland, 837
Nordlingen, 250, 265
Nore R., 172, 173
Norfolk, 115, 121
Norfolk (U.S.), 535,
538, 641
Norfolk I., 94, 619
NorlcAlps, 260
Norman Ft, 529
Norman Is., 66, 134
Norrkttping, 837
Norrland, 337
North C, 66, 70,338
North Devon L,
505, 616
Northallerton, 115,
142
Northampton, 118,
189, 141
Northampton (U.
S.\ 585
Northumberland,
114, 119
Norway, 65, 886
Norwich, 115, 121,
141
NoaopR, 486
Nossen, 242, 262
No88i-B« L, 442
Notq.288
Notteif^iam, 117,
127, Sa
Nova Scotia, 604,
517. 619, 620
Novaia Zemli* Is.,
60,826
Nova^^ 281, 290
Novels, 178. 186
NovKorodi, 78, 820,
8»,827
Novl. 264, 281. 284,
812
Novl-Buir, 864^
807,812
Novo
Alezan-
drovsk, 429
Novo - Georgievsk,
822
Novoi-Oskol, 820,
828
Novomoskovsk,
822,828
Novo - Tcherkask,
822, 328
NoyaB., 186
Noyon. 196, 206
Nubia, 439, 450, 499
Nuglandi, 404
Nuko I., 326
Nan C, 440, 468
Nuneaton, 118, 128,
142
Niimberg, 250, 251
Nuthe R, 262
Nyanza, Albert, L.,
444, 501
Nvanza, Victoria,
L., 444, 501
Nyassa ll, 445
Ny-Carleby, 827
Nyborg, 230
Nykerk, 222, 224
NykOpinp, 337
Nyssum Fiord, 231
Nystad, 327
Oakham, 118, 128,
142
Oamaru, 616
Oaxaca, 551, 553
Oban, 146, 159
ObdorskM..70,826
Oberland GL, 275
Obi G., 848
Obi R., 352. 428
Oboian, 820. 328
Obra B., 261
Ocafia, 179, 186
Oceania, 602
Ochil Hills, 157
Ochrida. 811
OchridaL.,812
OckR.,141
OckerR., 262
Ocklokonee R., 641
Odensee, 280
Odensee Fiord, 281
Odenwald, 252
Oder R, 78, 261
Odessa, 821, 824,
328
Odessa O.. 67, 826
Odet R, 206
Odiarca R, 185
Odiel R, 185
Oedsnlraig, 257,268,
Odiu, 071, 681, 001
OdaiKl Iiw, 00» 888
OtMlL.00,820
: Ofen or Bada, 256,
264
Offenbach, 251, 262,
263
Oglio R., 290
Ogmore R., 139
Ogun R., 481
OhioR, 541
Ohlau, 238, 261
Ohre R, 262
OichL.,160
Oise, 196
Oise R., 206
Oka R, 829
Okhak, 530
Okhotsk, 348, 429,
430, 488
Okhotsk Sea, 848,
433
Old Head C, 156
Oldenburg, 73, 236,
242, 243, 262
Oldham, 117, 126,
138
Olepgio, 282, 290
Olekminsk, 429
Oleron I., 2P4
01ifantR,486
OliveuQa, 581, 601
Olivenza, 177, 185
Olmtitz, 256, 258,
264
Olney, 118, 141
OlonaR, 290
Olonetz, 820, 327
Olot, 179, 186
OlsaR, 262
Oltenitza, 308, 312
Olvera, 178, 186
Olympia, 299, 300
01ympIa(U.8.),686,
540, 541
Olympus M., 69,
311,866
Omagh, 163, 166,
171
Omaha, 686, 689,
541
Oman, 868
Oman G., 848, 878,
880
Omatako Berg, 440
Ombrone R, 289
Ombrone Senese R ,
289
Omer Beg^ R, 464
Omoa,657
Omsk. 429
Ondom, 488
OnoKaXi., 77
Onegii Plain, 618
OnwaR, 72
Qnumiga, 010
Ontulo^ 617, 618,
610
OBteiloL.,608
Onteniente, 178, 186
Oo R, 421
OosbachR, 263
Oosterhout, 221,
225
OpliirMt.,622
Oporto, 75, 180, 182,
185
Oppa R, 262
Oppeln, 261
Oppido, 282
Or8efajokullM.,231
Oran, 462, 463
Orange, 198, 202,
207
Orange R, 439,444
Orange R. Repub-
lic, 439, 484
Orbe R, 207, 290
OrbitellaL., 291
Orca R., 290
Orebro, 837, 340
Oregon, 536
Orel, 76, 820, 329
Orenburg, 321, 324,
329, 852, 449
Orense, 176, 177,
185
Orfah, 881
Oria, 178, 186
Orihuela, 171, 186
Orinoco R., 508, 571,
601
Orisa, 882
Oristano, 282
Orizaba M., 506,
553
Orkney and Shet-
land, 66, 112, 147,
155, 156
Orleans, 74, 199,
203, 206
Orleans, New, 536,
539
Ormskirk, 117, 188
Ormuz G., 373
Onnuz I., 848. 873
Ormuz Str., 873
OiTiain R, 206
Ome, 196
Ome R, 206
Orogawa, 484
Oronte8R,851,880
Orotava, 179
OrriaR,186
Orta R. 261
Ortegal 0., 66, 183
Ortbex, 197, 207
Ortler Spits M., 260
Orton, 117
Ortona,282. 290
Oniba t, 662
Oniro, 680
Orvieto, 282, 280
Orwdlk, Ul
662
INDEX.
Osborne, 116
Oschatz, 242, 262
Osimo, 282, 290
Oskol R, 328
Osman-Bazar, 308,
312
Osnabriick, 239,241,
263
Ostashkor, 320, 328
Ostend, 215. 225
Oster B., 328
Osteiode, 239, 262
Osteroe L, 68
08trR,328
Osana, 178, 185
Oswego, 535, 540
Oswestry, 117, 139
Otago, 616, 617
Otley, 115, 141
Otranto Str., 67,
288, 310
Otrar, 428, 429, 480
Ottawa, 503, 507,
519, 540
Ottawa R., 618
Otter R., 140
Otterbum, 114, 120
Ottoman Empire,
359
Otway C, 607
Ouche R, 207
Oudh, 882. 404
Oudenarde, 215, 216
Oughter L., 172
Oiindle, 118. 141
Ouro - Preto, 571,
582, 601
Ourthe R, 225
Oa8e,Great, R, 141
Ouse, Lit, R , 141
Ouse R (Sussex),
140
Ouse R. (York), 135,
141
Oust R., 206
Ouveae R, 207
Ouzel R., 141
Ovampo Country,
482, 483
Ovar, 180, 185
Over-Flakkee I.,
223
Overyssel, 222
Oviedo..75, 176, 177,
181, 185
Owel L., 172
Owyhee I., 628
Oxford, 118, 130, 140
Ozieri, 282
Faarl, 485
Pacaraima Mts. , 568
Pachuca, 651, 552
Pacific City, 536,
541
Pacific Mts., 506
Pacific Ocean, 23,
35U, 502
Padang, 624
Paderbom, 239, 263
Padron, 177, 185
Padstow, 139
Padua, 282, 285, 291
Psestum, 290
PagliaR,289
Pahang, 401, 405
Paliun C, 310
Paisley, 145, 149,
160
Pajani L, 77
Palancia R, 186
Palencia, 176, 179,
185
Palenque, 552
Palermo, 283, 287,
291
Palestine, 359
Palestrina, 283, 289
PalinuroC, 288
Palk Str., 348, 388
P&li, 383, 387
Palma. 178, 283
Palma (Baleares),
179, 182, 183
Palmas C, 441
Palmas, Las, 179,
182
Palmi, 282, 290
Palmyra, 860, 363
Palos, 178, 185
Palos C, 66, 183
Palti L., 352, 419
Pamiers, 197, 207
Pamir, Plateau of,
348, 423
Pampas, The. 596
Pamplona, 75, 179,
181, 186
Pamplona (S. Am.),
576, 601
Panamd, 575, 576
Panam&B, 502,569
Panami Isth., 504,
569
Panaro R, 290
Pancsova, 257, 264,
812
Paneas, 380
Pangani, 499
Panjab, 351, 382,
399
Panjim, 383, 383
Pantellaria I., 67,
288
Panuco R, 541
Paola, 282. 290
Papua, 229, 628
Para, 671
Para or Belem. 581,
582, 601
Para or Grand B.,
i 5Q9
Paraguana, Pen.,
569
Paraguay, 582, 598,
599, 601
Parahyba, 667, 581,
632, 601
Paramaribo, 668,
579, 601
Paramatta, 603, 604
Parani, 568, 571,
596, 601
ParandR,582, 689,
697, 601
Paranahyba, 681,
601
Paranahyba R , 571,
601
Parang Pass, 350
Parati, 581, 601
Parchim, 242, 262
Parim6 Mts., 577
Paris, 65, 74, 195,
199, 203, 205
Parkersbiu^, 541
Parma, 75, 282, 285,
290
Parma R., 290
Parnassus M, 301
Paropamisan Mts.,
349, 360
Paros L, 301
Parras L., 553
Parret R, 139
Parry Is., 505
Parsonstown, 164,
172
Parthenay, 197, 206
Pas-de-Calais, 196
Pasco, 585, 586, 601
Passage, West, 164,
172
Passaniaqnoddy B.,
519,. 532
Passau, 250, 251,
264
PassargeR, 261
Passaro C, 66, 288
Passarovicz, 264,
308
Pastaza R., 601
Pasto, 676
Patagonia, 668, 591,
595
Patau, 383, 404
Patemo, 283
Paterson, 635
Pati&la, 383, 387
Patia R, 601
Patience C, 848
Patmos I., 364, 365
Patna,351,382.384,
404
Patos L., 601
Patras, 299, 300
Patras O., 301
Patta, 496
Patti, 283
Pan, 197, 201, 207
Paut6 R, 601
Pavia, 282, 290
Pawtucket, 6.S5
Paysandu, 599, 601
Payta, 585, 6ul
Peal L, 628
Pearl R, 541
Pecha Mt, 350
PechiliG.,421
PedrotaUagalla M.
388
Peebles, 145, 150,
158
Peene R, 262
Peesweep, 145, 160
Pegnitz R, 263
Pegu, 351, 382
PeguR, 405
Peiho R., 346, 406.
421
PeUe R, 262
Peipus L., 77
Peking, 346, 407,
409, 421
Pelew Is., 628
Pe-LingM.,349,406
Peltew R, 261
Pelvoux M., 69, 204
Pemba I., 443 •
Pembroke, 119, 133,
138
Pena Marella M.,
184
Penas de San Pedro,
178, 186
Penedo, 681
Penicuik, 144, 159
Penk R, 142
Penkridge, 118, 142
Pennine Alps, 273
Pennine Chain, 135
Penninstone, 115,
141
Pennsylvania, 634,
535
Penobscot B., 640
Penrith, 117, 127,
138
Penryn, 116, 139
Pensacola, 635
Pentland Hills, 157
Penza, 76, 820, 323,
329
Penzuice, 116, 139
Peoria, 636
Pera, 308, 312
Perak, 346
Perdu M., 204
Perejaslav, 321, 32S
Perekop G.. 67, 326
Perekop.Isth., 66
Pereslav, 320, 329
Perigueux, 197, 807
Perleberg, 288, 9^
INDEX.
663
perm, 76, 820, 323,
829
Pdmambaco, 581,
601
Pernau, 819, 827
Pernaa R., 827
Ferpignan, 75, 197,
201, 207
Perry R, 189
Persante R., 261
Persepoliis 871, 872
Pershore, 118
Persia, 846, 871
Persian G., 847,348,
865, 880, 881
Pertabgurh, 405
Perth, 146, 152, 159
Perth (AuRtraliaX
604, 605, 606
Pertuis, 207
Peru, 568, 585
Perugia, 282, 289
Perugia L., 291
Peruwelz, 215, 225
Pesaro, 282, 290
PescaraR., 290
Peschia, 282, 289
Pe-Shan Hts., 849
Peshawur, 850, 382,
885
Pesio R., 290
Pesth, 256, 259, 264
PetchoraR.,72,827
Peterborough, 118,
129 141
Peterhead, 146, 158,
159
Petersburg ru.S.),
535, 538, 540
Petersburg, St, 73,
819, 822, 827
Petherton, South,
116, 189
Petra, 360, 364
Petnea (Arabia),
859,860
Petrinia. 257
PetroTsk, 820, 828
Petroi>aulov8ki,429,
480,433
Petrozavodsk, 78,
890, 828, 827
Petworth, 116, 140
Pezenas, 197
PfefTers. 278, 275
Pfonheim, 250, 251,
263
Pharsala, 807, 312
Philadelphia, 635,
638,648
Philippine Is.. 198,
848, 622, 626
Fhillppopolis, 807,
800^812
Philiwdlfl, 485
flioeu.tM
Phrygius R., 880
PhthiotU, 299
Phunga, 401
Placenza, 2S2, 285,
290
Piauhi, 581
PiaveR.,291
Piazza, 288
Pichinca M., 570
Pickeiing, 115, 141
Pico L, 183
Picton, 616
Pictou, 519, 520
Piedmont, 281
Pietermaritzburg,
485
Pilcomayo R, 568,
601
Pilibhit; 882, 385
PiUen, 256, 267, 262
PindusM.,311
Pinerolo, 281, 283,
291
Pines, Isle of, 562,
619
Pinghai, 421
Ping-yoo, 407, 421
Pinsk, 821.328
Pin-yang, 421
Piomba R., 29ft
Piombino C, 288
Pineus, 299
Piranga, 582
Pirano, 256, 265
Pirmasens 25U
Pima, 242,' 262
Pisa, 282. 285, 289
Piscadoras Is. , 628
Pisco, 585, 601
Pistoja, 282, 285,289
PistriczaR, 811
PisuergaR, 185
Pitcaim I., 630
Pitic, 551
Piton de la Four-
naise, 442
Pitsligo, 146, 159
Pitt I., 619
Pittenweem, 145,
159
Pittsburg, 535, 538,
541
Plura, 585, 586
Pizzo, 282, 290
Placentia, 177, 185
Plassy, 382, 384
Plata Estuary, 569
Platte R, 541
Platten See, 77, 265
Plau L., 244
Flauen, 242, 243,
262
Pleisse R., 262
Plenty R, 616
Flock, 78, 261, 321,
a84
Plofikton, 146, 159
Ploemeur, 197
Ploennel, 197, 206
Ployesti, 808, 812
Plouaret, 197, 206
Plougastel, 197, 206
Plouha, 197, 206
Flussen Meer, 225
Plymouth, 116, 124,
139
Plymouth (U. S.),
635, 537, 640
Plymouth (W.Ind.),
563
Plymouth Sd., 135,
189
PIyiilimmonH.,136
Po R, 75, 290, 291,
421
Podgoricza, 307, 811
Podolia, 821
Podsbrook R., 141
Poebeck R, 138
Pogar, 328
Point-i-Pitre, 664
Point Barrow C,
605
Point Dale C, 607
Point de Oalle, 387
Point Gallinas C,
569
Poitiers, 74, 199,
203, 206
Pola, 265
Poland, 321
Policastro, 282, 290
Policastro G., 288,
290
Poligny, 198, 207
Polotsk, 321, 827
Poltava, 76, 321,
324, 328
Polynesia, 629
Pomerania, 238
Pomona, 156
Pondicheri, 214,
3S3, 888
Pont -k- Mousson,
198, 208, 2(}3
Pont-Audemer, 196,
205
Ponta Delgada, 180,
182
Pontarlier, 198, 207
Pontchartrain L.,
542
Pontecorvo, 282,288
Pontefract, 116,121,
141
Pontevedra, 176,
177, 185
Pontevico, 282, 290
Pontianak, 625
Pontifical States,
281, 283, 296
FonUvy, 197, 206
. Pontoise, 199. 206
Pontremoli, 282,289
Pont St Esprit, Le,
197, 207
Pontypool, 117, 139
Ponza L, 288
Poo-kiang, 407, 421
Poole, 116, 124, 140
Poole Hr., 135, 140
Popayan, 571, 670,
601
Poperinghe, 216
Popocatepetl M.,
604, 606, 653
! Poppi, 282, 289
Porcunna, 178, 186
Port Adelaide, 604,
605
Port Beaufort, 485
Port Chalmers, «lft
Port Culebra, 557,.
568
Port Darwin, 604,
605
Port Denison, 607
Port Elizabeth, 435
Port Espa&a, 5t)2,
563
Port Essington, 606
Port Glasgow, 148,
149, 160
Port Jackson, 603,
607, 613
Port Louis, 04, 442
Port Luke, 442
Port-Mahon, 179,
182
Port Nicholson, 616
Port Philip, 607
Port-Royal, 562
Port Stephen, 607
Port Victoria, 618
Portadown,163,166,
171
Portaferry, 163, 171
Portalegre, 180, 185
Portarlington, 164,
172
Port-au-Prince,562,
663
Portici, 282, 289
Portland (Austral. ),
604
Portland (Ojegon),
6.10, 640, 641
Portland (Maine),
534, 537, 540
Portland Bill C. 134
Porto Alegre, 682,
601
Porto Calvo, 681,
601
Porto FoUx, 581
Porto Ferra^jo, 282
Porto Principe, 662,
663
664
INDEX.
Porto Rico I., 193,
561, 562, 584
Porto Santo, 180
Porto Santo I., 183
Porto Segoro, 581,
601
Portobello (Scot-X
144, 159
Portpatrick, 145,
149, 160
Portree, 146
Portsmouth, 116,
123, 140
Portsmouth (New
Hampshire), 534,
537, 640
Portsmouth (Vir-
ginia), 535, 538,
541
Portsmouth Hr.,
135, 140
Portsoy, 146, 153,
189
Portugal, 65, 179
Portuguesa R., 601
Portumna, 165, 172
Posega, 257, 264
Posega R., 264
Posen, 73, 237, 240,
261
Potchefstroom, 439,
485
Potenza, 282, 290
PotenzaR, 290
Potomac R. , 541
Potosi, 571, 589,
590, 601
Potosi, Cerro de,
570
Potsdam, 238, 240,
262
Potshinki, 320, 329
Potton, 118, 141
Poyang L., 352, 410
Pozoblanco, 178,
185
Pozzuoli, 282, 289
Praga, 321
Prague, 73, 256, 257,
262
Prato, 282. 285, 289
Pravadi, 308, 312
PravadiR.,312
Preetz, 239
Pregel R., 73, 261
Prenzlow, 238, 261
Presburg, 257, 259,
264
Prescot, 117, 138
Presteign, 119, 189
Preston, 117, 126,
138
Prestonpans, 145,
148, 159 •
Prevesa, 307, SOS,
311
Priego, 178, 186
Primorsk, 352
Prince Albert Land,
505
Prince Albert Sd.,
505
Prince Edward L,
505, 520
Prince ofWales C,
502, 505
Prince of Wales I.,
388, 505
Prince's I., 193,
441
Princes-Risborough
118
Princeton, 519
Pripet R., 328
Prisrend, 807, 308,
311
Pristina, 264, 308,
310, 312
Privas, 197, 207
Prome, 382, 387
Promontore C, 260
Pronia R., 829
Pronsk, 320, 329
ProsnaR, 261
Prossnitz, 256, 264
Protva R., 329
Providence, 535,
537, 640
Provins, 199, 206
Prussia, 65, 236
Prussia Proper, 237
Prussia, Rhenish,
239
Pruth R., 264, h2
Przemysl, 256, 261
Pskov, 73, 320, 827
Psiol R., 328
Pubna, 404
Puebla, 178, 186
Puebla,La,541,551,
552
Puente Genii. 185
Puerto Cabello, 576,
601
Puerto es Maria,
178, 186
Puerto Montt, 592
Pulicat L., 390
Pulnitz R., 262
Pulo Penang I., 388
Pultene3rtown, 155
Pultusk, 261
Punderpur, 404
Puna, 382, 386
Punnair R., 404
Puno, 585, 586, 591,
601
Punta Arenas, 557,
558, 568, 591, 601
Punta, La, C, 301
Pun, 382. 884, 404
FuTlflcacion, 576
Pumeah, 362, 384,
404
Putivl, 320
Putrid Sea, 67
Puttun, 383
Puy-de-Ddme, 199,
205
Puy-de-Sancy M.,
69, 205
Puylaurens, 197,
207
Pwlheli, 119, 138
Pym or Bourne R.,
140
Pyrenees Mts., 68,
72, 184, 204, 348
Pyrenees, Austra-
lian, 606
Pyr^n^es Orientales
197
Quang-si, 407
Quang-Tung, 407
Quano, 434
Quantock Hills, 136
Quamero G., 260
Quarto, 282, 601
Quatre Bras, 215,
216
Quebec, 617, 619,
540
Quedlinburg; 239,
241, 262
Queen Charlotte I.,
505, 517, 527, 619
Queen Charlotte Sd.
505, 528
Queen's Ch., 608
Queen's County,
164
Queensferry, 8.,
145, 159
Queensland, 603,
604, 606, 612, 613
Queenstown, 159,
164, 167, 172
Queenstown (Af-
rica), 485
Quel R, 421
Queich R., 268
Quei-chow, 421
Queilas R, 186
Quei-ling, 407, 409,
421
QueissR.,261
Quei-te, 407. 421
Quei-yang, 407, 409,
421
Queretaro, 607, 641,
551, 552
Quesaltenango, 657
Quettah, 850
Quiberon Fen., 204
Quilca R, 601
Qnilliman^, 496, 497
Quiloa, 496, 497
Quimper, 197, 200,
206
Quimperl^, 197, 206
Quimperl^ R., 206
Quintanar, 179, 185
Quiper R., 186
Quito, 668, 676, 677,
601
Quito PL, 670
Quoich L., 160
QuoUe R., 171
Quorra R., 440, 444,
474, 481
Raab, 257, 259, 264
Raab R., 264
Raabnitz R., 264
Raalte, 222, 224. 263
Raba R., 261
Rabastens, 197, 207
Rabatt, 463
Rabba, 473, 474, 481
Racconigi, 281, 283,
291
Race C, 505
Racine, 686
Radack Is., 628
Radicosa R., 290
Radnor. 119, 134
Radnor, New, 119,
134, 139
Radom. 261, 821
Radomka R., 261
Ragusa, 257, 260^
265, 283
Raichur, 399
Rainy L., 508
Rajamahendri, 382,
404
Ra,iputana. 383, 389
Rakkah, 860, 380,
381
Raleigh, 635, 638,
541
Ralick Is., 628
Rambla, 178, 186
Rameshwaram L,
888,889
RamgungaR,406
Ramillies, 216
Ramor L., 173
Rampttr, 382, 884,
385
RamriL, 888
Ramsey, 118, 141
Ramsey I., 134
Ramsgate, 115, 122,
140
RftQ of Eaohh, 889,
890
RanoeR.,306
Rand«n, 880
Rangftn, 882, 887,
Rannoeh L., 160
lB«piM)e.i6a m...
^F V
■ •^r— s—-
RhydJiM. 119, 133
Ria J'Arjss, 133
RiS-id, 3M
B.PO R, m
Rei,'lie4lHch(Siii.l,
RU deBflaiiJuii,llifl
'^'■^wn%,
lUrbl I.. 44S
Riad'Bate, R., 75,
Roanne. IJW. 300
lUrobingo 1., 631
HobBR.wi
Ru Seudion ![.,
Rla do Vigo, IBS
Rooa, da. C„ 66.
Riu-^-Hma C, SIS
Rulgato, 116. 140
KslDii, IBS, 209. 200
»iB2^7e. 320
188
Ra-H-KruffiCMO
R^look.TOS
RlbUle a., las, 138
138
Rugrad, MS, 31*
Keiniremunt. 198.
RluUinond (Ainer),
RoohB R. 1S8
KH^iu L., sia
007,526,635,1138,
Boclieroit, 197. 2111,
IU«DT*,30S, SIZ
Rama R, 363
641 650
RMtadt, aso, afls
R™«Qheld,239.263
Bochello, 74, 197,
Jtothdnim, IW, 172
Renafi, 315, 22i
201, 306
Ibilheaaw, 238 SD2
RondsbniB. 2B9
BkihiMnd' (TBain,),
BochBsUr. 115. 140
Bithfrjlud, leii,
H™f«-ri4i, 149,
a"^"»^'jj, {iu.(t,X
Itathkeile, US. 172
Rin" SM, 313
Rideau Csnall 620
Rookiaioplon. 6ill
Rqiine3,-J,19r,2M,
lUthmBlWn. 163,
2(ia
"eTaJ^JM'""'
Rooky Mts., 5U,'
Reau R., 2S0
RLsCt, 9«2
628. 583
RaUbor, MS, sei
Renaduif. 239, 268
liiSB. T3, 319. 822,
Raliabon, SS6, £J1,
Renton. 146. lUO
327
nllli™'ti.fi39
!a4 ■ ■ ■
Rl^lf?\m^2J
RlgaorLlvonlflO..
ItodS), 808, 300,
RiuhflAlpiM.,a52
«7, 32«
R*y«B.,*a7
R»lford.E.117.U3
RIIleR,206
Rbvhd L., 3»0
RethEl. 19B, 206
5S».Si'"
EiwIlKh, 837. S40
RDmDO.30a
Roa R, 171
SBl
Bsiu, 179. ise
BiminL, 3s-i. m.
R.i9r or Ruhr B.,
Hay R, 141
Reiian — Groin —
Ru FoiDt, H, 364
Suhleitz, 237, a»2
Rim!ll, 3C8, 312
Ks,rs2'"*
SiL.tm*
R«u»iR,26S
Rtnsn.HKi. 110, 140
Ri„6udl«, 676, eoi
Reartlng, lie, I'M,
ReUtUoRBIl, 350,2*3
R«j.B-,3Bl
Rovel, 73; 319, 333,
Rill Colorado, 5ua,
RDkeUaa.JSl
B™llii6(n,S.),(IM.
JtTi^l.itt
Roman 308. 813
«1
Keval< Franco), 197,
Etui L., lar
207
Rio Qraude, 440,
RBdfe. BSl, BBS
Revaro, 3B2. 390
444,481
Roi^ana. 198, 217
K«iD^tUoiit,°<IJ
Bio GraidB M
Bed L. S41 ^
Reyfeiarik, 230
NotU, M3. 506,
Bums, 76, 388, 2ST,
Red R. Ml
Bed River Bpttls-
B«LlR., 263
Rlo^nrndB do BuL.
Riiubrd, 115, 140
ni«nt, HIT, flJB,
RIluetilD Alps, 266
name I.. 244
IIW,6S0
RlngllB. B73
Rio Negn, 568,690,
R«liea.34a
Rhivrill L . 369
(01
2,i»
Hhawui.RliadIL,.
Bio Pare. 609
Bedraih, lis, 134,
BLo gas Jdan. 607
KuniaeT, 116, 1411
IW
RlienlabPniBili.SEO
R!o Ginlligo. 607,
Roijila, 178, ISO
IleoL.m
R1,«,R.,1M1
Ron»B 330
Rhli.B R, 74, 208.
R tes™, isa
S±S:S"
«.i,Wy'»,llU.,'e8;
824. iOS, 976
Rlndf Juiienl,6«S,
RhluBEsl.,3t4
Roper R, 60S
RHsI R , 124. SDS
Bhio, 2^9
RlDd»lMont«.m
Boraaa, 837, 33?,
£?«."■
Biiodi R., ass
RlndaliFliUk.663,
Rourlo, 596. 601
^^«WisDl'<To»ii.476,
ltl,-,M,,. "l'.,. -:
|> ' i'>9,20i, zoo RusrommoD. ICS. ^M
^■■«im>. Gl. Luke>,
.li."l'J0.141
Rr™.in5.,7. ■
^^K^°l^ (Aft!^)
!i"i Head,
Bowd^ir. ««,!»« ■
Khcli.i.. ■! . . :
IbiaetU, 451. (SI. ^H
hiim«. . .o
^^Kulo. Nl. !S7. SflU
Wmw R., I.j, ;i:. ' J[i..i-(li:-Gliir. 19if,
^HB5teR.,M
€6t>
INDEX.
Rossan Point, 169
Rossano, 282, 290
Rossieny. 321, 827
Ross-shire, 146, 154
Rosswein, 242, 262
Rostock, 242, 243,
262
Rostov, 320, 328
Rota, 178, 186
Rothenburg,250,263
Rothenthurm Pass,
261, 311
Rother, R.,140, 141
Rother West, B.,
140
Rotherharn, 115,
121, 141
Rothes, 146, 159
Rothesay, 146, 152,
• 160
Rothwell, 118, 141
Rotondo, Monte,69,
289
Rottenburg,250,263
Rotterdam, 221,223,
225
Roubaix, 196, 200,
208, 225
Rouen, 74, 196, 200,
205
Roufia, R., 302
Roulers, 215, 225
Rouinelia, 307
Rovigno, 256, 265
Rovigo, 282, 291
Row R., 828
Roxburgh, 145, 148
RoxoC, 441
Rshev, 320, 328
Ruatan I., 558
Rudolstadt, 73, 242,
262
Rugby, 118. 128, 139
Rugely, 118, 141
Rugen I., 66, 244
Rugenwalde, 238
Ruhine R., 2C2
Ruhr R , 263
Rninza R., 264
Runcorn, 117, 138
Rupel, R., 225
Rupert R., 530
Rupert's Land, 517,
629
Rnppin, 238, 262
Ruremonde, 222,225
Rush, 164, 171
Russia, 65, 318, 421,
427
Russian Turkestan,
421, 430
Rnstchuk, 808, 809,
312
Rutherglen, 145,
150.160
Ruthin, 119
Ruthven R., 138,
159
Rutland, 118. 128
Rutland (U.S.), 534
Ryan L., 157, 160
Rybinsk, 320, 328
Ryde, 116
Rye, 116, 140
Rye R., 141, 171
Rylsk, 320, 328
Ryton, R., 142
Rzesgow, 256, 261
Saale R, 262
Saan R. 261
Saarbrttck, 239
Saatz, 256, 262
Sab R., 328
Sabermati R, 404
Sable, 199, 2U6
Sable C. (Florida),
505, 532
Sable C. (N.S.). 505
Sables d'Olonne,
197, 206
SaborR, 185
Sacco R , 289
Sacramento R , 541
Sacramento. 507,
536, 540, 541
Sadao R, 185
SadoR, 75
Saffron Walden, 115,
122, 141
Saga, 434
Saga R, 351, 382,
386
Sagan, 238, 261
Saghalien I., 348
Saghalien Ula, 416
Sahara, 439. 440,
453, 467, 474
Said, Port, 451, 452
Saida (Sidon), 360,
362
Saigon, 346, 351,
401
St Abb's Head, 166
St Afrique, 199, 207
St Alban's, 118, 131,
140
St Alban's (U.S.),
534
St Alban's Hd., 184
St Amand, 199, 206
StAmand-les-Eaux,
106
St Andrews, 145,
150, 159
St Andrews (Amer.)
519
St Andrews B., 156
St Anthony, 533
St Antonio C, 564
St Asaph, 119, 138
St Augustine, 541
St Austell, 116, 139
St Austell B., 135
St Bartholomew I.,
562
St Bee's Hd.. 134
St Bernard, Pass of
Great, 289
St Bride's B , 135
St Brieuc, 197, 200,
206
St Chamond, 199,
207
St Christopher, I.,
562
St Clair L. 526
St Clair R, 520
St Claude, 198, 207
St Croix I., 234
St David's Hd., 134
St Denis, 199, 205
St Denis (Mauri-
tius), 442
St Diey, 198, 208
St Dizier, 198
StElias(Amer.)M.,
506
StEIiasM.,301
St Esprit, Le Pont,
197, 207
StEtienne,199,204,
206
StEufemiaG., 289
StEustatiusI.,229,
562, 564
StFeliudeGuizols,
179, 186
St Flour, 199, 207
St Francis C, 569
St Gall, 272, 273
St Gaudens, 197,
207
St George, 662
St George's Ch., 135
St George 6., 569
St Germain - en •
Laye, 190, 205
St Germans, 116,
139
St Gilles, 197, 207
StGoven'sHd.,134
St Helena I., 94,
441
St Helen's, 117, 138
St Helen's M., 506
St Ives, 116, 118,
124, 129, 139, 141
St Ives B., 135
St Jean d'Angely,
197, 207
St Jean-du-Gard,
207
St John (New
Brunswick), 519
St John (W.Indies),
234, 562
St John R. . 621
St John's (New-
found.), 519, 620
St Josef, Pen., 569
St Junieu, 199, 206
St Just, 116
St Lawrence 6., 60S
St Lawrence R.,
504, 607, 617, 520,
621, 540
St Leonard, 199, 206
St Lo, 196, 206
St Louis, 609, 636,
539
St Louis (Sene-
gambia), 470, 481
St Louis R, 621
St Lucas C, 505
St Lucia L, 562
St Malo, 197, 206
StMaloB.,204
St Marie L, 442
St Marie aux Mines,
198, 263
St Martin C, 66,
183, 662
St Mary C, 441
St Mary R, 521
St Mary's Loch, 160
StMaryOttery,116,
140
StMatthieuPt..204
St Michael, 586
St Michel, 319
St Mihiel, 198, 208
St Moritz, 275
St Neots, 118, 141
St Nicholas, 215,
216 225
St Oraer, 196, 200,
205
St Paul, 536, 539
St Paul R, 481, 507
St Paul de Loanda,
478, 479
St Petersburg, 319,
322, 827
St Pierre, 196
St Pierre (N. Amer.)
214
St Pierre L, 563
St Point L., 208
St Polten, 256, 264
St Pons, 197, 207
St Pourcain, 190,
206
St Quentin. 199,205
St Remy, 198, 207
St Roque C , 569
St Servan, 197, 206
St Thomas, 557
St Thomas (W. In-
dies), 234
St Thomas I
441, 562
St Thome C. , 569
StTrond, 215, 225
193.
^F
GG7
^Bet nues B., les : s»kbioh R, m
Ssn Lucar, 178, 18B
Saria Ibal.tl Mi,
^■(t VuItry-en-CsuI, Sabburg. 71), 3t>n,
^■i 196
:s3, »i
Sin LniB, M7, BOB,
SautaLsilal., 441
^nt VlDi»Dt C, «,
«01
Santa Maria, a.
aaniMB. 78, 820,
183.689
^HbuTlncimtG., SUT
32*. 828
B07, 611,391,663,
SantaUarlaI.,18S
^F» TlDCent I„ est,
SatninR.,328,329
San_M«rlno, BBS,
001
sJfLu^sG.,GOO
Ban Miguel, liB
Santa Maria, 670,
aiYrteiilmso?
*29, 430
aiintu,M.lflV.20T
Bud.rfa, MO. BBS
^orU'a, 380
BimbtwlpOr, SSI,
S82, aei
BanPimred'Atena,
Santa Hosa, 641,
SantaDdni, 117,191,
fWls, 38S. m
SambroV M§, 2iB
Sambahr L., 800
BaDRuqueara^isB
8>ilBdoR,lSS
Santander. _ Kew,
8iDlM IB., «2B, 680
Si^Q^ (Amcr,),
SaniotiI.,SI0.31S,
aiwniinc«,ir«,nr,
bla. B81. fi82
SiiinoUiral[iI,,3]0
Ban Salvsdm (Cen-
BiIaiDiuini _(Mei-
SanAngBlo,282,290
San Antniilo de
tral Amer.), Bu3,
Sanlarem (Brazil),
S<toi^''m «1
Ban Salvador t,
8ii]«,M3
San Carlos, MS
Bantlsgo (Cldl«,
finlgm, fiO!, eM,
San Balvatora, 989,
608. Dli2, 8iil
GSa, BST. B40
Ban Chrlatoval [s.,
aantla«o(LaPl>ta),
BAlembris R, 75,
090
Ban Sebashlra, 177,
671
San Clirlstovao, 681
-ssr^r "■■
Silemo, SS!, SGr,
San DooiioBO i..
MO^
Bana, BOO, 304 '
Bantlago de Com-
BiilenioG.,!!S8, 2»
San Felipe de Ben-
poBtella, 177, ISl,
Bllfort, IIT, 128,
1B6
S-o'VliiJl^Vxa-
Sandhurst, to*
SintlBgodelEstero,
stSi.Z
tiva, 178, 1S8
BandrldEB. 801
Sau Foliu da GiiLi-
Bandnsky, B40
Sandwtcfi, 116, HO
SanW Nicolao I„
BaljBbiUT, ]1«, 12S,
olL 170, 189
Ssn FemiDdo, ITB,
e.llMiel.«Ml.ar6
Silo. 282, 290
aandl c, Bor
Bao Paulo, 681, 001
Sulinnoo Is., 003,
(CbilS), B92, 801
Saone R. S07
810
a»ioB,m.m
Apuri, ST6, Ml
aaneonara H., 1S8
Saranga R., 3M
B>loiia.eM
Sangro H , m
Saransk, 320, S29
SslDPika. 76. S07.
6S6, S40, 541, 849
Sanguega, 170, 188
Saratov, 78, 320,
SOS, SIS
Ban i^nWo B,
Sangninet L.. 908
IMODlIU G.. BIO.
683,608,671,001
SanRnlrl.,822, 020
Bannk, 82fi
Ban Joao',1o Win-
BanWallM
Sara^o: S79, ST9
■"A— ""■-
Banna B., SIS
Sardbila, 281
San'Toi^Vi./lM
Sansandlng, 47S,
8alotR,196
San J^i. 6i3, 667,
8alietEel.,SSg
Bardg-Cotrtfan Is.,
SlJwtB R. EftO
SanJDBa[Urngoaj'),
BaiiW CatUarina,
bit Lake City, £S6,
Ssree, B71, 4E7
iw2i'6"8;SI
Ban Juan (Meilco),
sJnlaCmi(BouV).
SS-i%,
WtllBll. 118, 139
Bsu Juan (W. In-
SaA I., 134
Bilt«Ht>, 14S. 14B,
rtiei), 68.1
Santa' Crui (Cana-
Sark B., ISS
1W
ries), 179
Bsrkara, SS2
Biat«i..,ie!>
Sin Juan Banlibta,
Bantu Crui I,. 609,
earIatR,207
ElllJllD, BM, fisa
Sarmatlan Mta., 70
Balnai a, m, lOS,
San 'Jniin da la
Santa Cms (Mei-
Samen, 272
ieo>. Ml
Sam«AaR,»«
HrSM^, Ml. 990
SauJnandaNioaia-
Sanlo Fc. 607, 630,
Saraia, Port, B2fl
^■nhlntonO. 389
Suno, 989, 990
^Klnrp n .130
Pa^J^n'd^Rlo,
Santa Fi-de DoEOli,
Saro>0..3tD
Ka
S71. S90
airpenSW.iM
>U(|R.,i
S*v«B., SS-V. 31S
S«iere R.. £08
SirooiL. tsl. 3S»
%i Kin., ua.
Scheldt R, Tt,
3(ibBtaliidt.l<ll
ISUKS.
SsdbeiEli. 1
.,SM Sedo. 470, *
SeeUud I., <
Schonebek, !3S, a
Bchweldiiili.
20S
Bchvsisfuit,
Bc)iwliig«B..2e!
Bchfl a, HM, SI!
BclnTonii. 1ST
Scone, New, IIB,
Bcol]uid,144
Sciopbi C, sol
SonCari. Sll, SSI,
Sn, SM
ScutATi (Albub).
ahuTtosbiUT, lis.
INDEX.
G69
S}iield«,N., 114,130,
142
BliieldB, B.« 115, 142
BhlflEoal, 117, 18P
Bhicatie, 4U5, 416
Shikakolam, 882,
867,404
Shikupiir, 862.886,
404
BhilkaB, 421
Shin L., IflO
Bhinte, 4Pl, 498
Bhinz, 871. 872, 428
Bbir^ R., 444, 495
BhirwaL., 445, 495
Bhoa, 456, 459
Blioreham, New,
116, 140
Bhntts, 145, 160
fihrewsbary, 117,
1S5, 189
BhroTMihirp., 117, 125
Bbtsban R., 827
Hlmbuiacadie R.,
521
Bbnk - el - Bhnynk,
360
BliunOa, 808, SOP,
812
Blins (BoBa), 871,
872.881
BhoBha, 822, S28
Bhiuter, 851, 871,
872,380
Biaime R , 206
BiAin, 846, 400, 401
Btam G., 848
Hianp-yan«j,407, 421
Bias R, 827
Biberia, 817, S45,
346,428
Ril>eria, New, Ib.,
348
Sil)erian Plain. 353,
424
Bi(;hon R, 206
Hicie C, 204
Kioilvl.,67,288,288
Bid R., 140
Bidlaw HUls. 157
Bidmonth, 116, 140
BidTaorBertG.,443,
458. 4C4
BiegR, 268
Biegen, 268
Biena, 282, 289
Bienne R., 806
Bierra Ainambaliy,
599
Bierra da Tabatinga,
588
8ierTad'Eiitrella,]84
Bierrade Guadalupe
184
Sl^rradoEtpinhaQo,
6M
' Etierra Gredon, 184
' Bierra Leone, 469,
470, 477
Bierre Madre, 506
Sierre Honduque,
184
Bierra Morena, 68,
I 184
, Sierra Nevada, 68,
i 164
j SierraKeTada(Mex-
I ico), 506, 584
' Bierra Verde, 506
Sieva R., 3:28
BievBk, 820, 328
Bigean L., 208
Biguenza, 179
Bihoon R, 851, 360
Bikandarabad, 883
i Bikhim, 849, 883,
' 887, 404
Sikh States, 888
Bikokf, 484
Bile R, 291
Silesia (AnBt.\ 256
BileBia(Pru8.), 238
Silhit, 415
>Bili8tria,:5.S06, 812
Siljan L., 77, 339
Bilverio L., 571
Simbirsk, 76, 320,
328, 828
i Simferopol, 821,S2r>,
828
Simoda, 484
Bimon'B Town, 485
Bimplon M., 274
Simplon Paiui, 28P
Simpson Ft., 529
Sim}>Bon R , 526, 5'i7
Binai Ht., 849
Sinaloa, 541, 551
Sin-chow, 407, 421
Sindh, 852, 382, 399
Sindh R, 405
Bi-ngan. 407, 410
Bingapfir, 382, 887,
405
Singapfir I. , 388
Sinna, 871, 372
Sinope, 3«(»..%I,SS0
Sion or Sitten, '27'2
Sioo-choo, 407, 4i'l
Sioule R, 206
Siont, 451, 401
Siphantol., 301
Sipra, R, 405
Sir Daria R, — see
Syr Daria
Sirgnjah, 404
Sirhind, 3s2, 383,
387. 404
Sir-i-Kol, L., 347,
352
Sisters, Seven, Is.,
I 66, 325
Sistova, 808, 309,
312
iSitangR,405
I Sitka I., 505
Bittern, R, 268
! Bivas, 851, 860, 361
, Bivash G., 67
I Biwah, 467
Siwah-el-Kebir, 467
Bizaudro R, 185
Skagen C, 231
I Skager Rack, 67,
I 231, 838
' Skagesioestindeu
; M., 70, 339
Skaw C, 66, 231
Skeen, 84U
, Bkeens Elf, 840
: SkelefteaR,339
' Skeme R, 142
' Skibbereen, lf»4,172
: Skiddaw H., 136
: BkUlo a, 801
, Skipton. 115. 141
j Skomerl., 134
Skopin, 820, 329
I Bkye L, 156
Blaney R, 172
Slave Co., 477
Slavo- Hellenic Mis.
79
Sleaford, 115, 141
Sleaford R, 141
Bleat Bd., 156
Slieve Blooui Uts.,
170
Slieve-Boughty, 170
Blieve-Donard, 17u
Sligo, 165, 168
Bligo B., 169
Slonim, 821, 827
SloteMeerL., 225
Slutch R., 328
Smestow R, 139
Stnilbfleld, 535
Bmiuka R, 328
BiiiOIen I., 338
Sinolensk, 76, 320,
823, 328
Smvma. 346, 860,
861, 880
Smvma G., 865
SniifellM., 231
8naith, 115. 141
Snake R, 541
Siieebatteu AI., 70,
339
Sneek, 222
Sneeker Meer, 225
Sueuw Bergen Mts. ,
486
Sniatyn. 256, 2^4
Snizort L., 156
Snowdon M., 136
Soar R., 142
Society I8..029. 6S0
Socorro, 676, 6ia
Bouotra 1., 846, 441,
448
Bofala, 198, 439, 496
Bogaraozo R, 601
Bogne Fiord, 388
Bohar, 368
Boignies, 215, 225
Boitwons, 199, 206
Soj R , 328
Sokoto, 478, 474, 481
j Bolaua, 179, 165
Solent Btr., 135,
140
SolMmes, 196, 208
Solenre, 272, 273
Solihull, 116, 142
Bolingen, 239, 268
Boiler, 179
Bolor I., 1P3, 623
Bolovetskoi I., 826
Bolt, 264
Bolway Fr., 185, 157
Somali, 439
SomergiU R, 189
Somen Is., 566
Somerset, 116, 124
Bomeraet (Africa),
485
Somerset (Anstra-
lia), 6«'4, 605
Somerset (N.), I.,
505
Bomerton, 116, Iflft
Bommariva. 282, 291
Somme. 196
BommeR, 74, 205
! Bomme Est, 204
Bondershauseu, 73,
I 242, 262
:SoTieR.. 404
' Bonnieauf e, 878,
379. 381
Bonora.541,551, 552
Souora R., 541
S(msonate, 557
' Soo-choo, 407, 400,
421
Bool<»o Arch., iV2li,
626
' Soi-hia, 808, 312
SorR.,207
Sora, 282, 289
Sorata M., 570, 592
Sorell L., 014
Boresina, 282, 290
, Sorgiies R , 207
I Soria, 179. 185
SoHJCubo, 581
Scjroe I., 338
I Sorrento, 282
I Sosna-Blstraia R.
! 328
Sosnitza, 321. '.]'2S
S«st, 239, 20.'i
Soadan, 439,
Sonna.Tho.f
apulsh Tovn, K2,
Spirt*, i99. BOO
SpiTtsl C. 14D
gpart^vento C, 86,
8pitib«rgen t
Spitikop H.,
Splttgen Fua,
Bpolsto, °e3,
Spomil«sIii..i
Bpres R., S63
SprembeiB, B!
Bpringfleia.
SprotUii, 139
Si'iun Head <
OqaiOltcaa-
Blalrmene 1.
Stnniboul. SO
Slamford, IIS. 121,
Stusard, S3S. W
autml-OAol, 3
Stiiub-bBchl^U,S7tl
auvropol' 7fl,'a82,
Sleep Ft,. aoT
StelnuE R.,' !H3
SMtenbiHBb, tSS
SMvto Fua, Ml
atepniti S., 202
gtappet, StT. i28
aUmbers. ISO, 2M
8l«ttin,TS,SS8,24l>,
SlSr-Avan
Btfir R.. TS
andeHeMts.ISO
ati>ur (Gloucealsr) ^
R, 139 F
aMTir<K™t)R.,lM t
Stourbridge, 118, f
Stour'port, lis, 12S, f
Strtitrotd, 113, 1!3,
atntfoid (ArnerX
atistford, Stoii]r,
, 3Cn>ud(0]ouc.),lIS,
, Strand R. ISO
awgiua R., 528
aitlfilwelMeDburg.
BuDdariaad, 1
SuBgHri R 421
Sur(iyK), 380,
81188. en. 312
smher laud.' 147.:
Button - ColiHe
113
Sveodhoi^, 230
"^
V.X. C71 !■
^B 8>n:ea.ll3
Tnlcbow 407 ♦"l
TarragoBa^ 179, 1S6 Telgn R., 140 H
^H ewuit.,«>'(.i:i3
m-kooi..iio'
^K Bhusiu, ii». isy
Tnin, llfl, 134, ISfl
TareuB.SHO, 363,881)
140
Tai-ping, 4Sl
TartarjG,'34a'
^B SwBtow, tm. m
Tii-wan, 4U7
Ta«1iig01ig,418
Tsflhkeiii 4as, 420,
Triavl. 328
^H Bwedon, ee, am
Tsiynan, 41.7, 409,
Teleg, 468
431
TeirrpLatte. 376
TnJim&a.lSS
TaaliKurghaB,Sie,
TskkHtu M., 378
TeSlMB'..S64
&?UIR.1SB
TaUwm, 179, 16b
Tasiaa4on.S51,383,
Tamesnar, 76, 3ri7.
TbIch. DO!, 601
TiiUBha«.aB,680,Hl
3iS»,i64
Teoipio, 383
Tanbuif, 118. 139
■miow, 164, 17B
Taaselot, Lc, M.,
Tenby, 119, 138
SirordB. 1«. 171
SjdsDhun, 115
?mll^a^^o^
Tatar - Buaridik.
Tginar (Haiu.) R.,
307. 318
183
T.ttlaB.421
Teng-olio", 407. 431
TattH, 463
Tongrl-nor L., SJ3,
8y1t 1., SU
Tauibovr 78, m.
Taubar B., !(I3
410
f^[ Iterli^ 4S»
sii.m
Taunton, 118, 1S4,
TsPKri-Tagb Mt„
e>T DaciH R., S52.
Tame a, 14a
421, *S8,lMI,4a»
Tsinpico, 041, 562,
Tanntoii(U.B.),6B5
TfPgii MlB., 444,
By™,3BB,3M
Taurida, 381
46B
Byro 1.. 801
T^picoU.SSa
TanniaM.,347,34B,
TeunesBBB, 535
830
TonaittR, 43»
Syniciuie (Amer,),
TauL.,4B9l445.1sa
TiiYlm, IBO, 18J
Tentsnlfln, US, 140
SBi, 5M "
Tuuuurlvn, 439, 441
TaviBtock, 116, IBl,
TcDlfl. 541. 651
Eyria 28T.MS,S59,
Tunsro R, MD
13B 1 Tai»lBlll, ill-, 311 H
3»
Syrfu DBHii. S69
Tandenififta, 163,171
Tuigv^l(ll..,439.
TavyR.,139 iTerB., 188 H
Taw R, , ISB TBismo, 334, 2O0 ■
SyijuiLcbuioD.ses
440. 444, 461, 403
Tawy R., ISO
Tank R.. 437
Bymn. 320, 3!B
BaiDOB a, 164
TUJ^P,' 3S2, SS8,
Tay. Fr-. 166
Tay U, 160
Termini, 283
BUTTH. 2iT, 2«
TayR.lSB
Terni[noeL,,55S
SOH-BBgeo, asT,
T,nuaI.,B10
?;i;|'"i!.«o'«B,
TBtd R, 139
TaTiti.4ai,4a3
Tenil, 333, 386, 289
Blepdlo, m. MB,
964
TopM R," 404
TcUama, 388, 373
BwitH, »5T, Stt
Tarrein R.', 2lia
8»a>p^f(.,83;
T^niUd. 61«
TohellaMnBli, 331
Ter-SchelJlnB[..523
Ti^berkasi, 331, 328
TllB, MO. 330
TaBohe'n. 266, 'itlL'
T^i^m
TutpatD, SSS. 601
Taibu-LaoinbD,4U5,
rsbiaeo, 631
T«,™re. IBS, 307
Tohemlgay, J6, sai,
TbDuco B., BOT
Tiniaoon, 19S, a07
394,328
TealR, 140
TibK S., 430, lis
Tarizoaa, 178, 1S6
■fcbta M.'. 4Sa
TsrlHgatii, 410
TetS, 499, 407
T«b«.473
Tarbsrt, 146, inO
Totare»E..»29
Tubrti, an, 873,457
TarbB., 197, S07
Tuhlltopol, 330, S3B
Tetuan, 46,5
TlFUuIt.,444,4e3,
TarWN»aQ,la6
TauliulflC„03.3S8
Tama R, 264
T«UD, 2er36!>
tAI?., BBS, SM, 601
Tariri, 176, 186
T«i™bR,312
Tadcuter, 119, 141
Tarifa,PimU<la,6a,
Tedrf,46a
120,130
Tulinor, 3IIU, 36fl
Teaa R , 149
Tataa. Sas. 541
^H'^!»>B. 141
TarUa. 571, 880,601
TeBiB, 76, 331, 391,
Taiel J., 333
^KbB^yiicn, SJl
Tarlinn.,tS3
338, 846, 863
Tawdoo. flSI, 5a;
^^^1TI1.,13I>
Tara, 107
a:r!s,'.s
Telooeo L., 6U3,
^^Kafllet, tsi. 463
Ta™ii,aoi
^^nigRnras, 33% 31!5,
SSiSfS
Tta.aoiayaR.B28
Thanii, 118, 141
^B 839
Thame R. 141
^^T»glMra™toR.,Ml
S81.5S3 '
Thaiuu R.. 110
■I»gaaB>t.,l88
TiuuOaDt, 463
ThaBiBBR,(AH,ar.),
T«KUS a,. 70. IBB
„,.„„,.,.,
Thames RudB. 137
TulllCiliMlt. (DT. WW
JUl^lW. Itl
TdlryR., 198 <'niUn>:i,Eu...«.-'>^ ^^B
«T2
INDEX.
Thanet I. , 134
Thann, 198, 263
Thaso L, 310
Thattha, 382, 886,
404
Thaur R., 208
Thaxted, 115, 141
Thaya B , 264
Thebes, 2{)9, 300
Thebes, Rains of,
451, 452, 461
Theiss R., 264
Therasche, 215, 225
Theresianstadt, 257
Thermia I., 301
Thermopylae, 299
Thessaly, 307
Thetford, 115, 141
Thian Shan Mts.,
S49, 415, 422, 429
Thibet— ««« Tibet
Thiel, 222, 224
ThieleR., 263
Thielt, 215, 225
Thiers, 199, 206
Thionville, 198, 208
Thirlmere L., 142
Thirsk, 115, 142
Thiva, 299, 800
Tholen L, 223
Thomastown, 164,
172
Thorda, 267, 264
Thorn, 237, 261
Thombury, 118
Thome, 115, 141
Thomhill, 145, 160
TfaoTshaven, 230,231
Thou L., 208
Thouet R., 206
Thourout, 215, 225
Thrace, 307
Three Points C, 441
Three Rivers, 519,
540
Thun, 272
Thun L., 77, 276
Thar, 847
Thar R., 268
Thargau, 272
Thuringerwald
Mts., 244, 252
Thnrles, 165, 168
Tharso, 147, 165,
159
Tiber R., 75, 289,
291
Tiberias L., 365
Tibeste, 467
Tibet, 346, 347, 406,
418
Tichtield, 116, 140
•ftcino (Tessin), 272
Ticino R., 200
TickhiU, 115, 142
Tideswell, 117, 142
Tidi-ban(2;-sa Mt.,
349, 400
Tien-chi R. and L ,
421
Tiene, 282, 291
Tien-tsin, 407, 409,
421
Tierra del Fuego,
569, 691, 695
Tiflis— «e0 Teflis
Tigr6, 468
TigriL.,445
Tigris R., 359, 381
Tikhvin, 820, 827
Tilbury Ft., 115
Till R., 142
Tillicoultry, 146,
159
Tilsit, 237, 240, 327
Timaru, 616
Timbo, 470, 481
Timbuctu, 439, 473,
481
Timor I., 193, 229,
621, 623, 624
Timor Laut I., 608,
621
Tinos L, 801
Tinto Hill, 158
TintoR,185
TioshaR., 829
Tipperary, 165, 168,
172
Tipperary Mts., 170
Tirana, 307, 811
Tirlemont, 215, 225
Tinnez, 425, 427
Timova, 308, 812
Tis L., 231
Tiszmanicka R., 328
TiticacaL., 570,571,
589, 600, 631
Tiumen, 429, 483
Tiverton, 116, 140
Tiverton (U.8), 535
Tivoli, 283, 289
Tixtia, 551
Tlascala, 641, 551
Tlemezen, 462
Toacas R, 553
Tobago I., 561
Tobarra, 178, 186
Tobermory, 146, 169
Tobol R., 483
Tobolsk, 346, 352,
429, 433
Tocantins R., 671,
6U1
Toccia, 290
Toess R., 263
Tokat, 860, 361, 880
Tokay, 257. 259, 264
Toledo, 179, 182, 185
Toledo (U.S.), 536
Toledo Mts. C8,
1)^4
' Tolentino, 282, 290
I Tolima, 576
TolimaM., 570,677
Tolraezzo, 291
Tolosa, 177, 186
Toluca, 641, 651
Tom R, 433
Tomsk, 852, 429,
438
Tondja R, 812
Tone R., 139
Tonga Is., 629, 630
TongariroM., 617
Tong - Chang, 407,
421
Tongo, 405
Tongres, 215, 225
Tong-Ting L., 852
Tongue, Kyle of,
156
Tonneins, 197, 207
Tonnerre, 199
Tonquin G., 348,
405
Tonquin R, 405
Tons R., 406
Toong-ting L., 410
Topeka, 607, 636,
640. 541
TopiaR, 289
T6plitz, 256, 262
TopoliasL., 802
Topsham, 116, 140
Tor, 360, 364, 380
TorB., 185
Torgan, 239, 262
Tonnes* R., 185
TomaR, 264
Tomea, 827
Tomea L., 77, 389
Toniea R., 839
Toro, 177, 185
Toronto, 619, 626,
540
ToropaR, 327
Toropecz, 820, 827
Torquay, 116, 124
Torre Doii-Gimeno,
178, 186
ToiTensL., 606,608
Torrente, 178
Torres Str,, 607
Torres-Vedras, 180,
182, 185
Torridge R, 139
Torrington, 116, 189
Torrisdals. 78. 340
Torshok or Torjok,
320, 329
Tortona, 281. 290
Tortosa, 179, 181,
186
Tortuga I., 661, 569
Tory I., 169
Tosa Fall. 275
Xosia, 360, 880
, Totana, 178, 186
Totness, 116, 140
Tottenhani, 119^146
Toudemi, 468
Toul, 198, 263
Toulon, 198, 202,
208
Touloubre R, 2^8
Toulouse, 74, 197,
201, 207
Touques R., 206
Tourcoing, 196, 200,
208
Toumay, 215, 216,
■ 226
Toumon, 197, 207
Toumus, 198, 207
Tours, 74, 199, 203,
206
Tow R, 141
Towcester, 118, 141
Towey R, 189
Trafalgar C, 183
Trajan's Gate, 811
Tralee, 164, 168, 172
Tralee R, 169, 172
Tramore, 164, 172
TramoreB.,172
Tranal., 621
Tranent, 145, 159
Trani, 282, 290
Trans-Baikal Ter.,
429
Transcaucasia, 818,
846
Transvaal Repub<
lie, 489, 485
Transylvania, 257
Trapani, 283, 287
Trasen R, 264
Tra«-o8-Monte8, 180
Traun, 265
Traunik, 307, 312
Travaucore, 883
Trave R, 73
Trebigno, 265, 307,
311
Trebizond, 359, 301,
880
Trecate, 282, 290
Tredegar, 117, 125,
139
Tregaron, 188
Treidar AaR., 827
Trent, 266, 258, 291
Trent R, 137, 141
Trenton, 607, 6o5,
540
Treptow, Neu, 238,
261
Tres Monies Pen.
569
Tresa R. . 290
Treves. 224,239,242
263
i Treviglio, 282, 290
^BirtvlBlio. SSt, m 1 Timt. 168 | Tyne, N., R , H2
(i73
Upton. 118. 139
^■T«riio,2aa.2B&,211l
Tilbingtn, S50, 203
Tjnemoulli, 114,
Vn\ R., T8, 329,
TuGBon, »l7,a3e,B41
3sa 137 ■ '
Tjn.,'B(IO, 862, SSO
Ural Mts. 70,326.317
TriobiDSpalU, S8S,
Tudela, 179, 188
Tyn>au, 2M
Uralsk, S2I. 339
SSS, 4M
Tusrto R , 133
Tyrol, 2BB
Urstepeli, 425
TriMiB,aaB,a68.seB
TuceU B., 468
Tab, 78 923, 329
Tyrone, 163
Urbina, 232, S90
T)Trhei.iimSea,8T,
Ures, 641, 551
Muta 8., tw. 2efi
Urga, 862, 418, 493
f rism B., »e
TuIliDiDi'e.'lM, ler,
D^, 125, 427
SffiK^K
TbUs, 199, 204, 20T
famn.l-S. 185,138
Sftff5B^-"^
SOT, 81S
UbriquB, 178. 1S6
Urilngtord, IM, 172
Trim, IH, 1S«. 171
Tnltilhl, 2fii
Tambei,57e,S77.fl«l
UBavallB., 601
UnR.lOU
Urris flead, 189
Trina 110, 141
T™iik(L.,160
nchte B . 282
Uruguay, 568, 693
Tri^n,W
Tunliridge, 115, 140
Ueker B.. 261
Umgn4R,698.86l
Trinidad, HS
Tnnbriiigs Wells.
UroiDen B , 1S5
Trinidsd (B»U.l8X
US, 121. UD
Dddeva'lta, 949
Unnniah, 671, 372.
6SB, eoi~
Tundras, Uio. S47
Trinldsdl,,g(n,se2
Tingabhadro R,
Mine, 282. 285, 201
TTriinii.h L, 362,
Trinity B.. IJa
404
Udlnsk, *i9
973,427
TrtDo. m. m
TuHla, 4Sfl, 4ni, 487
Odlpur, 351
Uscli, 436, 427
Tripoli, 88^, S«%
Udone. 491. 406
Usedom I., 2.4
SsMss, us
Tmiiknt,W '
Uft, S21, 334. 339
Tripotita,SW.»9,
Usk, 117"
SQO
Turin, h, esi, 2S3. Uganda, 4Ue
Ust R, 139
Triiandemm. aS3,
290 , Ugie R, 169
Uskup, 3"7. 312
TarltBstan,S47,3M, UgHanol.,2B0
fSS
421, 4S3. 429 \Ji\\ie1\, 920. 323
UsasJ, 199, 2i<f
TurlMStai.ElstBru, Ugogo, 500
UstiM, 87. 2SS
Iroitalioi -Moras-
318, 122 Hist. N.. I.. 158
ustiug-veiiki, aao,
ton, 32(1, S29
Turkestan, W^st-
tE&^%S?, 339
T ifrkay, M, 306
U t«l1wgei'4S3, 468
£,.ij,.u«„.
TroiaMJ6,83T
U ijl. 439. 199
Utah L,. 608
TroDdlijun, TS, SSt,
OJJaln, 351, 388,387,
Utica, 699. 640
SSB, 340
Turkish AmBuIa,
406
UtJUa I., 668
Trmdhjim Fiori.
tTknlne, 831
UUeL 179. 188
TS,8«
Turkish Erapirs,
U ea L., 77
Utrecht, 74,221,223,
TrODtliiD B.. SM
234,263
TnntoR.MD
Turkish Konllatan,
U eaboi^ S19, 927
Dtrora, 117, 136
TrooB, liS, l«n
BfiB, MO
n InssnE 416
naoHster, 118, 142
Troppao, 73,858,282
TuniiikR,18a
UlUl R, 75. 185
Uibridga, 119. UU
Tn)Ku<H.,ira
DIUpool, 147, ISB
U;, Lsud or, 389
Trowbridfre. 333,637
Tuin1iaut.''218. 2!S
Ullehr>i;rL.,142
Usk, 197. Sl7
Treyw, 74, IBB, SOB,
Tnrriff, 118, 159
Uln.,230, !1B1,2«
Dlln»»,499
I1..6
Tnimbarg Pmh. SBX
Ulster, 188, 186
TmbMli R, S2B
TDishoei. 488. 189
DliuiR,B0S,6iB
TiirtDkal, SIS
Tosealoosa, 535
nman. 321, B23
TadUI. 71, 251, 263
T^Slalln^'lC^n^l
TusauiT. 232, 286,
Umf ., 319
V«tgBteh, 68, 326
m. «3, 293
UmeaR, 73,310
TaliatairBtr., 328
A™r.),eS7
TulburT, lis. 143
Unltel glares. 93,
Vitsla. 273
InaUlo (V«,(B,),
l»l^,^^
sSi'"""
Vsldal Hills, 70. 72,
TncdJlDfPeral. 8S6
ValdfpeCas, 179,135
Valdlvia, 593, 801
M^Wl '
'^'3M,"29'*''' '^'
TMBhtl M.. ftOB
T-eodB., 112. 1!8,
Vslonce,' 198, 202,
Tilamdo. 418
Tw"8piiisM..17B
Valenda{ap.iuX7S.
^^^n^ST,4('l«!491
Upa R , 329
178, 181. isa
Twertu R. 329
OppeniJivlk. 631
^^K^k^'ob"'
Twlckeuhnin. 119,
Upplngliain, US,
ela), S78. 577, 801
^^^fanS-mlng I.. 410
140
168. 141
VilsiO^ia d. Al<ai>-
^^^l«i.VlTl
Tyn. R. US, IW Upsala, 337, 340
lara, 186
674
INDEX.
Valenciennes, 196,
200, 208, 225
Valential.,169
Valenza, 282, 290
Valladolid (Spain),
176, 179, 181, 185
Vallengin, 272
Valles, 651
VaUet, 197, 206
Valley of Death, 624
ValliSre B , 207
Vails, 179, 186
Valognes, 196, 206
Valona, 807, 311
Valparaiso, 592, 601
Valverde, 178, 185
Van, 859, 861
Van L., 852, 365
Van Buren, 536, 541
Van Diemen's Land,
603, 614
Vancouver's I., 505,
517, 528
Vannes. 197, 206
Var, 198
Varanger Fiord, 67,
76, 338
Vardar R., 75, 311,
312
Varese, 282, 29f)
Varinas, 571, 576,
601
Varna, 308, 309,
312
Vartry R, 172
Vasarhely, 257, 259
Vasarhely Maros,
257, 264
Vasarhely Sonilo,
257, 259, 264
Vasilikhov, 821, 328
Vasto, 282, 290
Vaticano C, 288
Vaucluse, 198
Vaud, 272
Vecht B., 74, 224,
263
Vega R, 186
Veglia I., 260
Vejer R., 185
Vejer de la Fron-
tera, 178, 186
VelezR.,186
Velez Blanco, 178,
186
Velez Malaga, 178,
186
Velez Rubio, 178,
186
VelikajaR, 327
Velino R, 289
Velino M., 288
Velletri, 283, 287,
289
Veluisk — see (Jst-
VeJuisk
Velftr, 382, 386, 404
Vendee, 197
Vendue R, 206
Venddme, 199, 206
Venetia. 282, 292
Venezue'ji, 561, 568,
575
Venezuela Gr., 570,
601
Venice, 75, 282, 284,
291
Venice G., 288 .
Venlo, 222, 225
Vennachar L., 160
Ventnor, 116
Vera, 178, 186
Vera Cruz, 551, 552,
556
Verbas R., 264, 312
Vercelli, 281, 283,
290
Verd C, 440
Verden, 239, 262
Verdun, 198, 208,
225
Vere R, 206
VeresaR, 185
Vergush R, 328
Veria, 308, 812
Vermeao R. , 601
Vennelho R., 601
Vermont, 534
Verne R, 208
Verno6, 429
Vernon, 196, 205
Verona, 282, 284,
291
Versailles, 199, 203,
205
Versetz, 257, 259,
264
Vertou, 197, 206
Ver\'ier8, 215, 216,
225
Vesdre R, 225
Vesle R, 206
Vesoul, 198, 207
Vesuvius M., 70, 288
Vevey, 207, 272
VezireR, 207
Viadana, 282, 290
Viana, 180. 185
Viasina, 320, 323,
329
ViaiKa, 76, 320, 329-
ViatkaR,329
Viborg, 230
Vicenza, 282, 285,
291
Vich, 179, 186
Victoria (Africa),
486, 487
Victoria (Austral.),
603, 604
Victoria (Brazil),
581, 601
Victoria (China),
407, 408
Victoria (Mexico),
507, 541, 651
Victoria Falls, 444,
493
Victoria L. (Aus-
tralia), 608
Victoria Mts., 606
Victoria R , 608
VictoriaStr.502,505
Victoria Nyanza L. ,
443,444
Vidourle R , 207
Vidzy, 327
Viejo M., 558
Vienna, 75, 256, 258,
264
Viennfe, 198, 199,
202, 207
Vienne R, 206
Vierzon, 199, 206
Viesti, 282, 290
Vigevano, 281, 283,
290
Vigo, 177, 185
Vigo L., 76, 329
Vigten Is., 338
Vilaine R, 74, 206
Vilia R, 327
Vaia Boa, 582, 601
Villa Real, 178, 186
Villa Rica, 599
Villafranca (Italy),
282, 290
Villafranca (Spain),
177, 179, 185, 186
Villajoyo8a,i:78,186
Villaiiueva, 178, 186
Villanueva de los
Infantes, 179, 185
Villanueva de Ser-
ena, 177, 186
Villarica M., 592
Villefranche, 198,
199, 207
Villeraur, 197, 207
ViUena, 178, 186
Villeneuve d'Agen,
197, 206
Villeneuve -le- Roi,
199, 206
VilouiR,433
VUvorde, 215, 225
Vimeira, 180, 182
Vinarosa, 178, 186
Vincennes, 199, 205
Vinci, 282, 289
Vindau R, 327
VindhyaMt8.,389
Vinnitza, 321, 328
Vire, 196, 206
Vire R, 206
Virgin Is., 193, 561
Virginia, 534, 535,
535. 540
Virginia W., 535
Visch R, 564
Viseu, 180, 185
Vishakpatnam, 382
Vishnei-Volotcbok,
320, 329
Viso, Monte, 205^
288
Visp, 207
Vistre R., 207
Vistuia R, 73, 261
Vitebsk, 73, 321,
324, 327
Viterbo, 283, 289
Viti Islands, 629
Vitimsk, 433
Vitoria (Spain), 177,
180, 186
Vitre, 197, 206
Vitry, 198, 206
Vittoria(SicilyX288
Vixa, 320
Vlaardingen, 221,
225
Vladimir. 76, 320,
321, 823. 329
Vlielandl.,223
Vlissingen, 221,228,
225
Vodena, 807, 309,
312
Vogelsberg Mts., 70
Voghera, 281, 290
VoU L., 160
Voiron, 198, 207
Voisin R,206
Voje L , 76, 829
VojutzaR,311
Volga R, 76, 328
Volhynia, 321
Volkbov R, 327
Volo G., 67, 310
Vologda, 72, 76, 320,
323, 327
Voltchansk, 328
Volterra, 282, 285,
289
VoltumoR, 289
Vonitza, 299
Voome I., 223
Vorarlberg, 256
Vorcay I., 621
VorlanR, 140
Vorona R, 328
Voronej, 76, 320,
323, 328
Vorskla R., 328
Vo8ge.s, 198
Vosges Mts., 205
Vostitza, 2P9
Vouga R, 185
Voulima R., 480
Vouzie R, 206
Vulcan Pass, 261
Vulcanello M., 71
, Vulcanol. 288
WittsnbeTg, 2»,
Wittatack, 2Sa, itS
WladlsUvlw, 821,
Wo-cbuig, lOT, 40»,
WoklDghim. llfl
Wnlfenbattel, 24!,
Wollmton L , SOS
noUiu 1., 241
WoUiBghun, IIS,
ir (AfriM),
ir (U.S.),
WoienK.,SOT
Wrath C, 15t
Wrcihan.,'llB, IBS,
Wrietsen, 23S, Sei
WunaB,'!S5
■tombe^, !M
Wttnl
"R,~iBS
:at[v( Bu
ITS. 1S<
Xativi Bu Feljpo,
g, IDT Zeeland, !
t., 1S» ZelUnn, 3»9 .
ZmdBTOod R.. 42!
2eiigg. SBf, 3fli
Zengbl R . ESS
ZlehkiM. SS\, 131
ZirknlU L, 166
Zafir R.. 1
ZdlK it., «
Zula Land. 434. 4S
Zumbo, 4». tM
, Zungoioero, 600
Zurtch,2e>,S7!.S7;
'XS
u'ellendaia Mts.,
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IL
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is CDm;>rebebBive, iDclii'lLng pnt only nit Iha wonla rtcotn^sed by Uin beat
iiithDrltLOB on ■utlluD old l^ngllHb. but nil Dia d«w {^Dltiaffot whicb hArn imuinil
»ineuD<ler UiB iIulgnnUbUDf alnuif, , . . TLe ptanntiulatloD iionnllillf Kuil
Pleuly Binrked In uKotdlncii wllb Uie moat il>pro<«il avAeia usige. nod In
nynolanr of minin, II in eibUiIteil in n ram thai dm luejf nunn tlin uenuiy,
Uia ruot-woidji aliovrlog Uib (irulnlila oiigln.ol' ths £ull>b ttoiils, tbdir jiriiuxiy
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"A mlly gvHl ami valna
r. "—Journal of ff'Zueof {oil
lU that In tha alroDeeat tenna or cun-
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I
glaanl lEBuncy. Wltli ceKaril to
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tennca. 1 bnra cumiJuEd U with the Ivga and cutly worki oF Utiiiin,
WBdgwiHx), anil othtn, aud Hod iLat In tha mlnEU of lU deUlls, ab.l li.e
Gleanieai D( iti deflnltioui, It holds I ta em ana agulnat tlieia. Tlteet;inul<HV
baa bono IreilHl tbrouKhoot vltli oiucli liituIliKBOcn, tha moat iligtlii^Uljeil
aDlborlUaa, and the moat reccot dlan^vRriaa In pbllolo^lca] iiclence, havlug Imcd
laid noder carenU canlrlliutlon."— fUetord D. Qrotam, Eiq., En^XtA UaUrr,
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SCHOOL ETTUOLOOICAL DICTIONAEY,
nonls II wlU he obyiooa ia avBrvM[i ,.
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Irabla word-book, haj provided the means of
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WiUiam Bhukwood and Sotii
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HE success which attended the experiment of introducing the
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and its organic development ; as well as to illustrate the questions
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The Series wUl thus unfold the History of Modern Philosophy
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Educational Works.
IS
Ancient Classics for English Readers.
Edited by the Rev. W. LUCAS COLLINS, M.A.
Complete in 28 vols., price 28. 6d. each, in cloth (sold separately); or bound
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CONTENTS.
HoMist: The Iliad. By the Edi-
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Homer : The Odyssey. By the Edi-
tor.
Herodotus. By G. C. Swayne, M.A.
Xenopuon. By Sir Alexander Grant,
Bart.
Euripides. By W. B. Donne.
Aristophanes. By the Editor.
Plato. By Clifton W. Collins, M.A-
LuciAN. By the Editor.
.fiscHYLUs. By Reginald S. Cop-
leston, D.D. (now Bishop of Col-
ombo).
Sophocles. By Clifton W. Collins,
M.A.
Hesiod and Theognis. By the Rev.
J. Davies, M.A.
Greek Anthology. By Lord Neaves.
ViRoiL. By the Editor.
Horace. By Theodore Martin.
Juv enal. By Edward Walford, M. A.
Plautus and Terence. By the Edi-
tor.
The Commentaries of CiSSAR. By
Anthony Trollope.
Tacitus. By W. B. Donne.
Cicero. By the Editor.
Pliny's Letters. By the Rev. Alfred
Church, M.A., and the Rev. "W. J.
Brodribb, M.A.
LivY. By the Editor.
Ovid. By the Rev. A. Church, M.A.
Catullus, Tibullus, and Proper-
Tius. By the Rev. James Davies,
M.A.
Demosthenes. By the Rev. W. J.
Brodribb, M.A.
Aristotle. By Sir Alexander Grant,
Bart., LL.D.
Thucydides. By the Editor.
Lucretius. By W. H. Mallock.
Pindar. By the Rev. F. D. Morice,
M.A.
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1 6 IV. Blackwood and Son^ Educational Works.
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In course of publication, price 2s. 6d. eacb.
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I. DAHTE. By the Editor.
"We consider Mrs Oliphant's to be exactly the book which its authoress in-
tended, and a very grateful and opportune boon to all who are beginning the
study of Dante, as well as to the far larger class of readers who, without
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VIL MONTAIGNE. By the Rev. W. Lucas Collins, M.A.
VIII. RABEIjAIS. By Walter Besant, M.A.
IX. CAIjDERON. ByK J. Hasell.
X. SAINT SIMON. By Clifton W. Collins, M.A.
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no exaggeration to state that Dr Mackay's manual is in every respect
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excellence." — Sheffield Independent.
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'* * Physiography and Physical Geography * is one of the most compact
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range of modem literature. . . The volume, which is copiously
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taking up the branch of Physiography — one now substituted by the
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national and other schools." — Londonderry Standard.
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