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Index of the Marginal Letters and Figures.
A. Wool Dyeing.
A. 1. General Directions.
A. 2. Loose Wool.
A. 3. Slubbing and Yarn.
A. 4. Machine-Dyeing.
A. 5. Piece-Goods.
A. 6. Military and other Uniform Cloths.
A. 7. Wool and Fur Felt Hats.
B. Silk Dyeing.
*
C. Union Dyeing.
D. Dyeing of Materials composed of Wool and Silk.
E. Half-Silk Dyeing.
F. Chemicals, Thermometer and Hydrometer Tables, AVgjghts
and Measures.
General Index.
Percentage Tables.
1
wn
A MANUAL OF DYEING
WITH THE DYESTUFFS
OF THE
CASSELLA COLOR COMPANY
NEW YORK
182 AND 184, FRONT STREET
Vol. II.
WOOL. SILK.
HALF. WOOL. HALF- SILK.
1908
PUBLISHED BY THE CASSELLA COLOR COMPANY
NEW YORK
2<):)9
ALL RIGHTS RESERA^ED
6'd3d
PREFACE.
In compliance with a long felt want and frequently
expressed desire, we have taken occasion to publish, as
a supplement to our exhaustive works on ''Cotton
Dyeing", ''Wool D3^eing" and "Union D3^eing" etc. issued
by us during the last few years,
A MANUAL OF DYEING
as a kind of handy book for the dye-house in pocket-
book form giving particulars in a concise manner regard-
ing the most important methods of dyeing.
The present Volume II deals with
The Dyeing of Wool, Silk, Half-Wool and Half-Silk.
In addition to the general methods of dyeing and a
description of the special methods to be applied for the
different classes of goods, we have included iri this
volume the much appreciated tabulations from our previous
books indicating the dyestuffs and ^combinations thereof
best adapted for producing the various shades. Great
care has as usual been devoted to combining with
comprehensiveness the greatest possible completeness.
We trust that this little volume will prove of
equally good service in practice as our other publications
have done hitherto.
New York, October 1908.
Cassella Color Company.
CONTENTS.
(An alphabetical index will be found at the end of the book).
Page
Wool Dyeing.
General Directions for the Application of the Wool
Colours 3
Dissolving the Dyestufts 3
Acid Colours . 4
Alphanol Blue, Alkaline Blue, Eosines 8
ChromeColours 9
Dyestuffs on Chromed Wool 11
Anthracene Chromate Colours 12
DiamineColours 13
BasicColours 14
Dyeing of Loose Wool 17
Washing, Carbonising, Bleaching 17
Dyeing 18
Dyestuffs for producing the various shades
on Loose Wool 20—31
Mixtures of extremely good Fastness to Light 32
Dyeing of Slabbing and Wool Yarn 35
Washing and Degreasing, Bleaching of Slabbing • . 35
Scouring and Degreasing of Wool Yarn .... 35
Bleaching of Wool Yarn 36
Bleaching of Wool Yarn 36
Dyeing of Slubbing and Wool Yarn 37
Mixtures very Fast to Light 39
Dyestuffs for producing the various shades on
Slubbing and Wool Yarn 40—51
Chloring of Wool; Production of Silk Wool , 52
Stoved or Sulphured Colours on W o o 1 Y a r n . 53
— V -
CONTENTS.
Pago
Dyeing of Loose Wool, Woollen or Worsted Yarns,
Cops and Cheeses in Dyeing Machines ... 59
Dyeing of Loose Wool in Machines 60
Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted Yarns in Machines . . 60
Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted Yarns in the form of
Cops and Cheeses 61
Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted Piece-Goods ... 65
Scouring and Carbonising 65
Neutralising 66
Bleaching 66
Dyeing 66
Dyestuffs for producing the various shades
on Piece-Goods 68 — 79
Special Properties of Fastness of the Dyestuffs
mentioned for Wool Pieces 80
Increasing the Fastness to Perspiration and
Steaming 82
Increasing the Fastness to Water 82
Correcting defectively dyed Pieces 83
Dyeing of Vegetable Impurities 84
Naphtyl Blue Black or Naphtylamine Black in
Combination with Logwood and Sumac ... 85
Logwood Combination (so-called Combination-Black) . 85
Sumac Combination 87
^Vcid Colours in combination with Logwood for
the Production of Navies and Dark Blues . . 88
The Production ofPastil Colours 89
Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted Piece-Goods
with White Silk Effect Threads 91
Dyeing of Ladies' Dress Goods see page 217.
Dyeing of Gentlemen's Suitings 91
Dyeing of Military and other Uniform Cloths ... 97
Black 97
Blue 98
Green 100
Brown 101
Red 102
- VI -
CONTENTS.
Paoe
Violet, Orange, Yellow 105
"Field Grey" lOG
"Field Grey" Shades of Eminent Fastness to Light . 107
Khaki 108
Dyeing of Wool and Fur Felt Hats 113
^[ethod of Dyeing Colours 114
.Method of Dyeing Blacks 116
Dyestuffs for producing the various shades on
Hat Felts 118—127
Dyeing of Loose Wool and Hair for IMixture
Felts 128
Production of Mixture Felts by Dyeing Ready-Milled Hat
Bodies 129
Print and Discharge Effects on Hat Felts . . . 130
Silk Dyeing.
Dyeing of Silk 135
Dyestuffs for Silk answering normal Requirements for Fast-
ness 136
Dyestuffs for Silk of good Fastness to Water, Washing
and Milling 138
Immedial Colours for Silk -.140
Method of Application for Dyestuffs for Silk 140
Methods of Aftertreatment for producing Dyeings Fast to
Water, Milling and Washing ■. 142
Application of Basic Colours for shading Logwood Black 143
Dyeing of Tussah (Raw) Silk 144
Dyeing of Bourette Silk and Silk Noils . . . . 144
Union Dyeing.
Union Dyeing - 147
One-Bath Method 147
Behaviour of the Dyestuffs for Unions towards Wool and
Cotton . 148—151
— VII —
CONTENTS.
Page
Direclions for Dyeing by the One-Bath Method . . . .152
Producing Dyeings Fast to Milling 153
Aftertreatinent with Metallic Salts 154
Aftertreatment with Formaldehj-de or with
Formaldehyde and Bichrome 155
Coupling with Nitrazol 155
Diazotising and Developing 156
Two-Bath Method 157
Dyeing the Wool previously and Cotton-dyeing subsequent-
ly with Diamine Colours 157
Diamine Colours for subsequently dyeing the Cotton portion
of Union Goods Wool-dyed in an Acid Bath . . .158
Dyeing the Cotton previously with Diamine Colours and the
Wool subsequently with Acid Colours 159
Cotton-dyeing previously in the Jigger or in the Vat . 159
Dyeing the Cotton previously in a Milling Machine . 159
D3-eing the Cotton previously with diazotised Black,
Blue, Red and Claret 160
Wool- dyeing previously with Dyestuffs Fast to Milling and
Cotton-dyeing subsequently with Immedial Colours . 162
Cotton-dyeing previously with Immedial Colours and Wool-
dyeing subsequently with Wool Dyestuffs . , . .162
Stripping of Dark Shoddy, Shoddy ISI ate rials and
defectivelydyed Goods . . 163
Soda . 163
Sulphuric Acid 163
Bichrome and Sulphuric Acid 164
Hyraldite 164
BleachingofUnions 165
Stoving 165
Permanganate and Bisulphite 165
Peroxide of Hydrogen and Peroxide of Sodium . • 166
Methods of Dyeing applied for the most impor-
tant Union Materials 166
Gentlemen's Suitings, (Worsted Cloth, Cheviot, etc.) . .166
Ladies' Costume Cloths, Meltons, Presidents 168
Flannelette and Imitation Lambskin 169
— VIII
CONTENTS.
Page
Orleans and Lustre INIaterials Ill
Union Cashmere 173
Union Linings, Italians, Serges, etc 174
Fabrics composed for Wool and Mercerised Cotton . . .178
Union Crepons 178
Dyestuffs which resist Mercerising in producing Crepon
Effects on Unions 180
Union Astrachans 181
Mohair Plush 181
Go(xls with a White Ground 181
Cioods with Cotton dyed Fast to Acids 182
Union Hosiery 185
Union Felt 186
Union Braids and Brush Braids 187
Union Yarn 188
Shoddy Cloths with Cotton Warp 189
One-bath Method for Shoddy Cloth 189
Two-bath Method for Shoddy Cloth 190
Uncarbonised Shoddy, Wool Waste, Rags, etc 192
Dyestuffs for producing the various shades on
Unions and Shoddy 194—205
Dyeing of Unions containing Silk 206
Solid Shades .206
Multi-coloured Dyeings 209
The Application of Acetate or Formate of Soda
forUnionFabrics 214
Materials composed of Wool and Silk.
Dyeing of Materials composed of Wool and Silk . .217
Dyeing of Gentlemens' Suitings see page 91.
Dyeing of Ladies' Dress Materials 217
P r e 1 i m i n a r y T r e a t m e n t o f t h e IVI a t e r i a 1 s . . . .217
Solid Shades 217
Acid Colours ' . . • 217
Acid Colours in Alkaline Baths 220
Diamine Colours 220
Basic Colours . 221
— IX —
CONTENTS.
Page
Two-Coloured Effects 221
DyestufFs for dyeing the "Wool first 222
Dyeing Directions for Colours 223
Dyeing Directions for Blacks 224
Clearing the Silk 224
DyestuflFs for dyeing the Silk subsequently 225
Dyeing of Half-Silk (Cotton and Silk).
Dyeing of Half-Silk (Cotton and Silk) 229
Behaviour of Half-Silk Dyestuflfs towards Silk and
Cotton 230—233
Dyeing Directions for Colours 231, 232, 233
Dyeing Directions for Blacks 234
Dyeing Directions for producing Two -coloured Half-Silk
Materials with Immedial Colours 235
Chemicals, Thermometer and Hydrometer Tables,
Weights and Measures, Index, Percentage
Tables 237
WOOL DYEING.
1. General Directions for the Application of the Wool
Colours.
2. Dyeing of Loose Wool.
3. Dyeing of Slubbing and Yarn.
4. Dyeing of Loose Wool, Yarn, Cops and Cheeses in
Machines.
5. Dyeing of Piece-Goods.
6. Dyeing of Military and other Uniform or Livery Cloths.
7. Dyeing of Wool and Fur Felt Hats.
Ine
Directions for the Application of the
Wool Colours.
Dissolving the Dyestuffs.
The wool dyestuffs are best dissolved by pouring plain
boiling water over them. It is an advantage to use either
condensed water or other water free from lime for this
purpose, because some of the dyestuffs precipitate with lime.
It is best to strain the dyestuff solution through a
piece of cotton cloth or a fine sieve when adding it to the dye-
bath. Any undissolved particles are then brought into solution
by rinsing with hot water.
When dissolving Basic Colours, calcareous water should be
corrected by adding a little acetic acid. Basic Colours which
are more difficult to dissolve are best stirred first to a paste
with a little acetic acid and after standing for some hours dissolv-
ed by pouring hot water on them.
l*iie
Dyestuffs for Wool.
Acid Colours.
(Easily Levelling Colours.
S, SL
Naphtol Yellow
China Yellow B
Acid Yellow AT
Indian Yellow G, FF, R
Metanil Yellow
Fast Yellow S
Tropaeoline O, OO, G
Orange GG, extra, II, IV, R
Orange GG crystals
Azo Orseille BB
Lanafuchsine SG, SB, 6B
Acid Magenta
Archil Substitute N powder
and paste, I extra paste
Azo Wool Violet 7R, 4B
Acid Violet 6BS, CBC,
4RS
Cyanole FF, extra, extra H,
AB, BSB, C, V
Tetra Cyanole V, SF, extra,
Indigo Blue X, SGN
Thiocarmine R paste and
powder
Azo Wool Blue SER, SE,
C, B
Azo Navy Blue B, 8B
Acid Navy Blue A
Brilliant Naphtol Blue R,
B, 4B
Cyanole Green B, 6G, S
Cyanole Fast Green G
Acid Green extra cone, extra
cone. B, 5G, H, liquid
40''/o, liquid cone.
Fast Acid Green BN, B
Azo Merino Black 8B,
(5B, (iBE, B, BE.
jSIethod I.
Charge the dyebath with
10°/o Glauber's salt crystals,
5 — 10°/o bisulphate of soda (according to depth
of shade required', and the dyestuff,
or with
•20»/o Glauber's salt crystals
2— 4"/o sulphuric acid, and the dyestuff;
enter the goods hot or even at the boil, and boil
for 1 to I'/i hour. In the case of deep shades and
Blacks, a little bisulphate of soda or sulphuric acid
may be added subsequently in order to effect a better
exhaustion of the bath ; a complete exhaustion is
l^articularly of importance for piece-goods with
vegetable fibre effects.
Goods hard to penetrate are entered at rather
a lower temperature, the bath being then raised
gradually to the boil ; it is recommended also to
somewhat increase the quantity of Glauber's salt.
In the case of non-neutralised, carbonised, goods
the dyeing is commenced with Glauber's salt only,
a little bisulphate of soda or acid being added later
on if necessary.
The dN-estuf fs enumerated may be used straight-
away for shading purposes in a boiling bath ; only
in the case of verj' pale compound shades is it
necessary to be more particular about selecting the
most suitable dyestuff, for which purpose the
following, which level particularly well, come first
into consideration :
Fast Yellow S Tetra Cyanole V
Acid Yellow AT Cyanole Green B, 6G
Orange GG Cyanole Fast Green G
Azo Orseille BB.
The old baths are to advantage used over again,
experience showing that the Acid Colours level
still more easily in old baths than in a fresh liquor.
The quantities of Glauber's salt and bisulphate
of soda or acid required for the standing baths
amount to about one-quarter of the original weights
of Cilauber's salt and about one-half of that of bi-
sulphate of soda or acid.
Dyestuffs for Wool.
Orange EN, ENZ
Acid Brown, D
Brilliant Scarlet G, GG,
R, 2R, 3R, 4R, 6R
Crystal Scarlet 6R .
Scarlet FR, F2R, F3R, EC
Brilliant Cochineal 2 R,
4R
Brilliant Croceine R, ROD,
B, BOO, M, MOO, 2B,
3B, 5B, 6B, 7B, 9B
Croceine AZ
Roccelline
Azo Rubine A
Naphtol Red C, EB
Amaranth
Azo Red A
Bordeaux BL
Peri Wool Blue B, BG, G
Water Blue B, RB, R,
No. 225
Wool Blue TB
Navy Blue RSC
Solid Blue 6G, R, 3R
Induline B, 2B, 3B
Silver Grey N
Aniline Grey B, R
Nigrosine soluble in water
Naphtol Green B
Naphtol Dark Green G
Naphtylamine Black
ESN, ESS, ES3B,
ES5B, ES8B, EFF,
S, 7B, 7BS, 6BS,
4BS, SS2B, SS3B,
SGG, SOO, SOT, T,
TJ, TN
Naphtylamine Blue Black
5B, B, BD
Naphtol Blue Black
Naphtol Blue Black SB,
S2B, S3B, 6B
Naphtol Black B, 2B,
SB, 6B, M, SG, P, 4R
Acid Colours.
Method II.
The method of dyeinp^ is on the whole the same
as for the easily levelling colours mentioned on
page 4 (Method I), but it is best to commence
dyeing with only half the stated amount of bisulphate
of soda or acid, and to add the remainder in several
portions after boiling for \/2 hour.
The dyeing is also frequently effected — parti-
cularly in the case of piece-goods — ■ by adding the
whole amount of acid together with 20 — 25 °/o Glau-
ber's salt straightaway to the bath, entering the
goods at from 50— 55« C. (120—130 deg. F.), and
raising to the boil in the course of ^ji hour.
For Pert IVool Blue, charge the bath with
25— SO^/o Glauber's salt crystals and
15 "/o bisulphate of soda or
5 — 60/0 sulphuric acid
and the dyestuff; enter the goods handwarm, raise
to the boil in the course of about an hour, and boil
as hard as possible for I'/i to 1^/2 hours.
For Black, charge the bath with
10°/o Glauber's salt crystals,
10 "/o bisulphate of soda and the dyestuff,
or with
20''/o Glauber's salt crystals,
4"/o sulphuric acid and the dyestuff.
Enter at about 60—70" C. (140—160 deg. F.),
raise in the course of about 20 minutes to boiling
temperature, and after an hour's boiling, exhaust,
if necessary, by adding a little bisulphate of soda or
some acid.
When shading with the above-named Acid
Colours, it is necessary to cool the bath off before
adding them and then to bring again gradually to
the boil.
For subsequent shading, the easily levelling
colours indicated for Method I on page 4 may to
advantage be added straight to the boiling liquor.
5 —
Dyestuffs for Wool.
Acid Colours.
Milling Yellow O, OO
Naphtaline Yellow crystals
Milling Red G, FGG, FR, R
Wool Red B, BG
Rosazeine B, 13
Formyl Violet S4B, S5B,
6B, 8B, lOB
Alkaline Violet CA, C
Formyl Blue B
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Brilliant Milling Green B
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
Lanacyl Navy Blue
B, BB, 3B
Lanacyl Violet B
Azo Merino Blue 3B, G
Azo Merino Dark Blue R
Naphtol Blue G, R
Naphtylamine Black 4B.
4BX, 6B, X2B, X3B,
OO, D, BBN, BBT, BBV,
3BV
Alphanol Black BG, R
Anthracite Black B, R.
Combinations of
Naphtol Black .
3B, 6B
^
Naphtylamine Blue
Black 5B
?l
Naphtylamine
Black ES8B,
ESaB, ES3B,
ESN, S, TBS
with
^ n
Formyl Violet S4B,
S5B, t3B, 8B, lOB
^^
Brilliant Milling Blue
B
o
:Method III.
Charge the bath with
10— 20''/o Glauber's salt crystals
2 — 5 "/o acetic acid and the dyestuf f ;
enter the goods at 40** C. (105 deg. F.), raise to the
boil in 20 to 40 minutes, and exhaust the bath after
\'3 to ^It hour's boiling by gradually adding 3 — 5*" o
acetic acid, or in the case of deep shades 3 — T'/o
bisulphate of soda, or 1 — 3"/o sulphuric acid.
For piece-goods hard to penetrate, the amount
of Glauber's salt is increased and the goods are
entered at a somewhat lower temperature.
In the case of goods containing kempy wools
or other kinds which are difficult to dye through,
the bath is kept at a livel}- boil ; it is helpful in
covering kempy wools to add a little acid sub-
sequently to the dyebath.
Rosaze'iiie, Foi-viyl Vt'olet and Brilliant Milling
Green B (the two latter particularly in deep shades)
are frequently also dyed with bisulphate of soda or
sulphuric acid according to Methods I or II, espe-
cially on piece-goods.
Lanacyl Blue and Lanacyl Fiolef are to advan-
tage d\'ed straightaway with the addition of the whole of
the requisite acid (acetic acid). Charge the bath with
20 "/o Glauber's salt ciystals,
10°/o acetic acid and the dyestuff ;
enter handwarm, raise to the boil in the course of
•''/4 to 1 hour, and boil for about an hour until the
bath is exhausted.
In the case of Naphtylarnine Black the dyeing
is usually commenced at T**" C. (160 deg. F.) The
dyeing may also be commenced with bisulphate of
soda or sulphuric acid, but the Black turns out a little
less bloomy by this method than by the one indicated
above. Commence dyeing with the addition of
10 "/o Glauber's salt and
S^-'o bisulphate of soda or
2'"o sulphuric acid,
adding after "/i hour's boiling about the same quan-
tity of bisulphate of soda or sulphuric acid in order
to exhaust the bath.
For the subsequent shading it is best to use
the easily levelling dyestuffs indicated under ^Method I
on page 4 which may be added straight to the
boiling bath. If however the shading is done with
the dyestuffs named on page 6, the bath has to be
cooled off first and is brought again gradually to the
boil after adding the dyestuffs.
Dyestuffs for Wool.
Naphtyl Blue Black N
„ NV
:: :: :: fbb
Naphtylamine Black R
RNB
NBB
Acid Colours.
IMethod IV.
Charge the bath with
l_2''/„ oxaHc acid (according to the hard-
ness of the water),
5<>/„ acetic acid (for Dark Blue 2— S^/o
acetic acid),
20 "/o Glauber's saltcryst. and the dyestuff.
Enter the goods at 60- 70" C. (140-160 deg.F),
raise in '•'0 to 80 minutes to the boil, and after about
an hour's boiling add, if necessary, a little acetic
acid in dfder to exhaust the bath. Then add
30/^ sulphate of copper,
and work for another '/» hour without boiling. In
the case of goods difficult to penetrate, enter at a
lower temperature and raise gradually to the boil.
The dyestuffs may likewise be dyed without the
addition of sulphate of copper, but the resulting dyeings
will only be moderately fast to steaming. In the
case of Naphtylamine Black FB and FBB the
addition of oxalic acid may be omitted.
Several lots may be dyed consecutively in the
same liquor by cooling it off to some extent and
adding
1'^ — '/a'/o oxalic acid, ^
30/0 acetic acid (for Dark Blue 1-2 0),
70/0 Glauber's salt cryst. and the dyestuff,
then boiling for about an hour, and exhausting, if
necessary, by the addition of a little acetic acid, adding
2V2"/u sulphate of copper,
and running for another »/2 hour without steam.
For shading, the following dyestuffs are used :
j Formyl Violet, all brands
Cyanole extra
For Blue-black Tetra Cyanole A
Brilliant Milling Blue B
I Lanacyl Blue BB, R
{Anthracene Yellow C
Acid Yellow AT
brilliant Milling Green B.
Regarding the application of Naphtyl Blue
Black and Naphtylamine Black in combination
with Sumac Extract see page 85.
— 7 —
Dyestuffs for Wool.
Alphanol Blue
Alphanol Blue, all brands
According to this method,
Violet, Brilliant Milling Blue B,
cite Black and Alphanol Black may likewise be applied.
Method VI.
Alkaline Blue, Eosines.
Method V.
Charge the bath with
10 "o Glauber's salt,
S^/o acetate of ammonia *and the dyestuff ; enter
the well scoured material at about 40** C. (105 deg. F.),
raise in labour to theboil, anddye boiling foronehour,
subsequently adding a little acetic acid if necessary.
It has to be observed that the bath should not
be alkaline but slightly acid.
A\Tien dyeing wool which is still slightly alka-
line, it is recommended to add to the dyebath on
starting * 4 — ^/a" o bichromate of potash in addition
to 1 — 2 "lo acetic acid.
Millin^Yellow O, Milling Red, Wool Red,
Formyl Blue B, Brilliant Milling Green B,
Formyl
Anthra-
Alkaline Blue 6B
„ 5B
„ 4B
„ 3B
„ 2B
,. B
„ R
„ 2R
Alkaline Violet CA
„ C
Eosine 3G, GGF, L, BN
Eosine Scarlet B
Erythrosine vellow shade,
D, extra N, B
Phloxine S
Rose Bengale extra N
Charge the dyebath with
1 — 2*'/o soda ash or
3 — 6°/o borax and the dyestuff;
enter the goods at about 60" C. (140 deg. F.), raise
in about 20 minutes to abt. 90o C. (195 deg. F.),
and work at this temperature for '/a to */« hour,
according to the depth of shade to be dyed. Then
rinse, develop in a fresh bath of 60— 70» C (140—160
deg. F.) with
4 — S^/o sulphuric acid
for ' 4 hour, and rinse again thoroughly.
Copper vessels should be avoided as much as
possible in the dyeing, as the shades do not turn
out so clear when using vessels of this kind.
The baths used for full shades do not exhaust
entirely, and are used to advantage for subsequent lots.
Carbonised goods (shoddy etc ) should be com-
pletely neutralised previous to dyeing.
:\Iethod VII.
For the Eosine Colours, which are usually dyed
according to ^Method III, page 6, the following
method which yields particularly brilliant shades is
frequently applied :
Prepare the bath with
50,0 acetic acid, 5" alum and 3 ",'0 tartar ; enter the
goods, boil for ','9 hour, then cool off to about 50" C.
(120 deg. F.), add the dyestuff in solution, raise
gradually to the boil, and boil for another ''« hour.
If the bath is not completely exhausted, add a little
more acetic acid.
* Acetate of ammonia is prepared by mixing
10 oz ammonia (0,913 sp. g. or 24o;o) and
26';+ oz acetic acid (8<» Tw. or 30»/o),
The solution should be neutral and not change
blue or red litmus paper to any extent.
Dyestuffs for Wool.
Acid Chrome Colours.
Anthracene Chrome Blue
G, BB, F, B, R
Azo Chrome Blue T, TB
Anthracene Chrome
Brown D, DW, A, SWN
Anthracene Chrome Red A
Anthracene Chrome
Violet B
Anthracene Acid Brown G
Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Acid Black
SR, SRT, SRG, SBB,
SA, SAS, SASN, SASG
Naphtylamine Black
Cr, CrN.
Method III.
Charge the dyebath with
10 "/o Glauber's salt crystals,
1 — 4:"/o sulphuric acid (according to the depth
of shade required) and the dyestuff ;
enter the goods at 50—60" C. (120—140 dcg. F.),
raise in about '/2 hour to the boil, and boil for
1 hour, then cool off a little, add the requisite
amount of bichrome, and boil for about another
^ji hour. For Black, the goods may be entered at
a somewhat higher temperature and the bath be
raised more quickly to the boil. In the case of Azo
Chrome Blue, 1 "/o sulphuric acid is added in addition
to the bichromate of potash, the blue being deve-
loped by one hour's boiling.
For Colours, it is usual to add about two-thirds
of the weight of bichrome as of dyestuff; for
Anthracene Aci'd Black, one-half, and ior Naphtyl-
amine Black CR and CrN one-third, the weight
of bichromate of potash as of dyestuff is sufficient.
As a rule, the same quantity of sulphuric acid
as of dyestuff is used, but not less than 1 "/o and no
more than 4 "/o, or for Blacks 5 "/o ; for Anthracene
Chrome Brown D, A and SWN, however, not
any more than S'/o sulphuric acid should be used.
When dyeing Anthracene Chrome Violet B,
Anthracene Chrome Blue (all brands), Anthracene
Acid Black SR, SRT, SRG, SA, SBB, Naphtyl-
amine Black Cr and CrN in copper vessels or
apparatus, the dyebath at a temperature of 50° C.
(120 deg. F.) is charged first with ^/2"/o sulphocyanide
of ammonia (of the weight of the wool), stirred
well, and left standing for 20 minutes before adding
the Glauber's salt, acid and dyestuff.
For particulars of subsequently shading the
dyeings see page 12.
~ 9
Dyestuffs ior Wool.
Anthracene Yellow C
powder and Paste, R, GG
Anthracene Chrome
Brown DWN
Anthracene Acid Brown
R, N, B, V, SW
Anthracene Chrome Blue
FR, FD
Anthracene Acid Blue
BBN, BB, 3B, RT
Anthracene Blue Black C
Anthracene Chrome Black
F
FF
FR
5B
P extra
PPN extra
PF extra
PFB extra
PFBB extra
PFR extra
PR extra
Anthracene Acid Black
ST
DSN
DSF
DSFB
DNG
DSST
SW
LW.
In addition to these, the
dyestuffs mentioned under
Method VIII may likewise
be applied according to this
method.
Acid Chrome Colours.
Method IX.
Charge the bath with
10"/o Glauber's salt crystals,
1— o^/o acetic acid and the dyestuff;
enter the goods at 40—50" C. (105—120 deg. F.),
raise in '/« hour to the boil, and after '/o hour's
boiling exhaust by gradually adding
5 — S^/o acetic acid or
3— 10°/o bisulphate of soda or 1 — 4°/o sulphuric acid;
then cool off a little, add the requisite quantity of
bichrome, and boil for another Vs to 'U hour. For
Anthracene Chrome Black and Anthracene Acid
Black, enter the goods at about 70" C. (160 deg. F.),
and raise immediately to the boil.
The requisite quantities of bichromate of potash
are for Anthracene Chrome Blue FR, Anthracene
Acid Blue and Anthracene Chrome Brown D IVN
about two-thirds, for Anthracene Blue Black C,
Anthracene Yellow and Anthracene Acid Brown
one-half, and for Anthracene Chrome Black and
Anthracene Acid Black about one-third, of the
weights of dyestuff used.
Anthracene Yellow GG is to advantage after-
treated with chromium fluoride, an equal quantity as
of dyestuff being used, not exceeding however SVa^'o-
In the case of Anthracene Chrome Black j B
as well as of the "P" brands, and of the "Z>" brands
( of the Anthracene Acid Black series excepting DSST,
formic acid maj- be used instead of acetic or sulphuric
acid, the dyeing being commenced with the addition
of Oj-D^/o formic acid 85°/o and the bath exhausted
by adding further 2— S'/a"/. of this acid.
If calcareous water is used, the bath should in
the case of Anthracene Chrome Black F, FE, FR
and Anthracene Acid Black DSST, SIV, LWhe
corrected first with 2"/o oxalate of ammonia* before
adding the dyestuff or acid.
Wen dyeing with Anthracene Chrome Blue
FR, Anthracene Acid Blue I all brands), Anthracene
Chrome Black P extra and PR extra in copper
vessels or machines, ' 2"/o sulphocyanide of ammonia
is f'rst added to the bath according to Method VIII,
page 9 .
For particulars of subsequently shading the
dyeings see page 12.
* Oxalate of ammonia is sold in a technically
pure form, but may also be easily prepared in the
following manner :
Dissolve per 100 gallons dye liquor
3 — 9 oz oxalic acid in
1 — 3 quarts hot water
and neutralize this solution by the addition of about
3';'* — 10 oz ammonia 0,912 sp. g^av.
— 10 —
Dyestuffs for "Wool.
Anthracene Chrome Blue
BW extra, RRW extra
Anthracene Acid Blue
RR and GG
are dyed exclusively on
chromed wool according to
Method X.
In addition to these, the
following dyestuffs may also be
dyed according to this method :
Anthracene Chrome Blue
G, BB, F, B, R, P^R, FD
Anthracene Acid Blue
BBN, BB, 3B
Anthracene Blue Black C
Anthracene Yellow BN, C
powder and paste, R, GG
Anthracene Acid Brown
G, R, N, B
Anthracene Chrome
Brown D, DWN, DW, A,
SWN
Anthracene ChromeRed A
Anthracene ChromeViolet
B
Anthracene Acid Black
DSN, DSF.
Dyestuffs on Chromed Wool.
Method X.
Mordant the wool, according to the desired
depth of shade, with
l';'a — 4''/o bichromc and
r/a— 3»;o tartar
for iVa hours at the boil, then rinse, and dye in a
fresh bath with the addition of
1— S^/o acetic acid or
h \q acetate of ammonia* (for very pale
shades) .
Enter the goods at 40—50° C. (105-120 deg. F.),
raise in V« hour to the boil, and boil for I'/a to 2
hours, adding a little acetic or formic acid if necessary
after boiling for an hour, in order to exhaust
the baths.
For dark shades it is recommended, in order to
ensure best possible fastness to milling and alkalies,
to chrome subsequently with
'/a — ^/i^/o bichromate of potash
for 20 — 30 minutes at the boil in the exhausted
dyebath.
C^-
As an assistant for the mordanting, formic or
lactic acid, or lactoline, may be used in proportionate
quantities in the place of tartar.
Carbonised goods have to be neutralised
previous to mordanting, the results obtained with a
iaichrome - sulphuric acid mordant being less satis-
factory.
With regard to dyeing in copper vessels and
subsequent shading of the dyeings see Method VIII
and page 12 respectively.
Anthj-acene Chrome Blue BW extra and
RRW extra are dissolved by mixing the dyestuff
with a little ammonia (abt. 7 oz ammonia per 1 lb
dyestuff) and adding hot water. Anthracene Acid
Blue RR is dissolved in water of 50—60'* C.
(120— 140 deg. F.)
* Regarding the preparation of acetate of am-
monia, see foot-note on page 8.
ORff
Tl LIBRARY
Dyestuffs for Wool.
Dyestuffs dyed direct with the addition ofBichrome.
Anthracene Chromate
Brown EB, 8G
Anthracene Chromate
Green B
Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Yellow C
powder and paste
Alphanol Blue B extra
Anthracene Blue Black C
(dyed in pale shades)
Diamine Fast \ nj
Red F ^
Wool Red B - ^
Formyl Violet
S4B, lOB
Formyl Blue B
Brilliant Milling
Green B
Brilliant Milling
Blue B
Anthracite
Black R
Method XI.
Charge the dyebath with the requisite quantities
of dj'estuff and of bichrome (about one-half to two-
thirds of that of dyestuff) and in addition thereto
with 10 "/o Glauber's salt cryst. in the case of piece-
goods.
The dyestuff and bichrome should be dissolved
^ both independently and be added separately to the
liquor.
Enter at 70—80' C. (160—175 deg. F.), raise
in '4 hour to boiling temperature, add 2 — 3"''o acetic
acid after about */* hours boiling, and boil for another
^,4 to l'/4 hour.
Regarding subsequent shading of the dyeings
see below.
For shading dyeings produced tuith Chrome Colours u;hich houe been
already chromed
the same Chrome Colours as. have been used for the dyeing are usually employed,
especially in the case of loose material ; the dyebath is first cooled off a little, the
well dissolved and diluted dyestuff is added and the bath brought again gradually to
the boil, the boiling being maintained for 20 to 30 minutes. If fairly large quantities
of Anthracene Colours are used for the subsequent shading, that is to say, more than
one-quarter of those used originally, they should in order to ensure best possible
fastness to milling be fixed with a little bichrome ; if only small quantities are used,
the subsequent after-chroming may be omitted.
The chromed dyeings may also be shaded subsequently with Acid Colours pos-
sessing good fastness to milling, of which the following may be mentioned :
Brilliant Milling Green B Formyl Violet, all brands
~ " Milling Yellow O
Wool Red B.
B
Formyl Blue B
Brilliant Milling Blue
Tetra Cyanole A
When shading it is recommended to cool off the bath to some extent before
adding the well dissolved dyestuff.
For yarns, and particularly also for piece-goods, easily levelling dyestuffs are
frequently also used and may be added straight to the boiling liquor; of these the
following are the best suited :
Tetra Cyanole V Acid Yellow AT
Cyanole extra, FF Orange GG
Cyanole Fast Green G Azo Orseille BB
Cyanole Green B, 6G Acid Violet 6BC
12
Dyestuffs for Wool.
Diamine Colours.
Thioflavine S
Oxy Diamine Yellow TZ
Diamine Fast Yellow FF
Diamine Yellow CP
Diamine Gold
Diamine Orange B, F
Oxy Diamine Orange G, R
Diamine Brown, 3G, R,
M, B
Diamine Catechine G
Oxy Diamine Brown G
Diamine Fast Red F
Diamine Scarlet B, 3B
Diamine Brilliant
Scarlet S
Diamine Red4B, 6B, lOB
Diamine Purpurine B,
3B, 6B
Diamine Rose GD, BG,
BD, B extra
Direct Rose T
Diamine Bordeaux B, S
Diamine Brilliant
Bordeaux R
Diamine Violet N
Oxy Diamine Violet B,
G, R
Diamine Sky Blue FF
Diamine Blue RW, 3B,
2B, BX
Diamine Steel Blue L
Diamine Green G, B, CL
Diamine Dark Green N
Diamine Black HW
Diaminogene extra
Diamine Jet Black OO
Method XII.
Charge the bath with
10— 20"/o Glauber's salt crystals (according
to the depth of shade or
10— 20''/o Glauber's salt crystals and
5*>;o acetate of ammonia *, and the
dyestuf f ;
enter the goods at abt. 60" C. (140 deg. F.), raise
in 20 to 30 minutes to the boil, and boil for */* to
1 hour. Then sample, and if necessary shade with
the same dyestuffs in a boiling bath.
The baths can if required be exhausted com-
pletely by adding gradually
2 — S'/o acetic acid,
which is however usually employed only for self
shades and for Colours which are to be aftertreated
with metallic salts, for instance, for Diamine Fast
Red.
The afierireatment with bichrome, chromium
fluoride or sulphate of copper is carried out either
in the exhausted bath, or in a fresh bath with the
addition of
3 — 4*'/o acetic acid
for about '/a hour at a gentle boil.
Of bichrome, about one-half the quantity is used
as of dyestuff, and of chromium fluoride or sulphate
of copper about an equal weight as of dyestuff.
* For the preparation of acetate of ammonia
see foot-note on page 8.
- 13 —
Dyestuffs for Wool,
Basic Colours.
Diamond Magenta la
Magenta j'ellow shade
Cerise la
Russian Red B, G
Aniline Brown
Irisamine G
Methyl Violet 6B-4R
Crystal Violet 5B bluish, lOB
Victoria Blue B
New Methylene Blue
N, XSS
Solid Green cryst. O
Malachite Green cone.
Brilliant Green cryst extra
Thioflavine T, TCX
Chrysoidine AG, Crystals R
Bismarck Brown FFG,
GG, EE.
Method XIII.
Charge the bath with
2 — 3°/o acetic acid and the dyestuff;
enter the goods at 50" C. (120 deg. F ), raise the
temperature to 80° C. (175 deg. F.) in the course
of about '/a hour, and dye for another 15 or 20
minutes at this temperature.
Dyeings that have turned out too dark may
easily be stripped a little by adding some acetic acid
to the dyebath and heating if necessary almost to
boiling temperature.
Irisamine can al-o be d5'ed like Rosazeine
according to Method III, page 6.
For Green, the following method is frequently
also applied and yields fuller shades :
For 100 lbs of wool, dissolve
20 lbs hyposulphite of soda crystals and
10 lbs alum
in the dyebath, adding
4 lbs sulphuric acid of 168° Tw
when these salts are quite dissolved. Enter the yarn
at 40" C. (105 deg. F.) into the bath which has a
milky appearance, heat gradually to 80° C. (175
deg. F.), work for an hour, rinse thoroughly in
water, and add to the last rinsing bath ^,5 gallon
ammonia per 100 gallons. Then dye as indicated
above in an acetic acid bath at a temperature of
80—90" C. (175—195 deg. F.)
Dyeing of Loose Wool.
The Dyeing of Loose Wool.
Washing. In order to ensure good and level results in dyeing,
the wool must first be thoroughly freed from any adhering im-
purities, such as suint, grease, etc The wool is to this end soaked
in wool washing or scouring machines (leviathans), or in troughs,
w'hich are charged according to the amount of the impurities of
the wool with a liquor containing varying quantities of soda (on
an average lO'^/^ soda crystals calculated on the weight of the
wool) or soda and some soap or ammonia, care being taken that
the temperature of the bath does not exceed 40 — 500 C (105 — 120
deg F.). The wool is worked gently in this liquor for 20 to
30 minutes, squeezed off well by m.eans of the squeezing rollers,
and rinsed in a wool washing machine or in another washing
machine with a plentiful supply of fresh water until the rinsing
water runs off perfectly clear.
Carbonising. In order to remove any vegetable impurities
such for instance as burls, straw, particles of wood, grass, etc.,
the scoured wool is carbonised or extracted.
The well scoured wool is worked for 1 to 2 hours in
wooden, stone or cement vats containing a sulphuric acid solution
twaddling 4 — 7 degrees, then thoroughly whizzed in hydro-
extractors lined with lead or provided with a solid coating of
enamel, and brought into the so-called carbonising stove. In this
stove the wool is first dried at 50 — 600 (120—140 deg. F.),
and then extracted at 90— 105'^ C (195—225 deg. F.). After
carbonising, it is washed, or neutralised with a soda solution
of 3 — 1 deg. Tw., and then rinsed well. A thorough rinsing
or neutralising is most essential to ensure good results in
dyeing, because the large amount of acid contained in the
carbonised wool would cause the dyestuffs to rush on to the
fibre too rapidly, unlevel dyeings being the result.
Bleaching. Yellow wools must in certain instances be
bleached in order to obtain a pure white. Loose wool is mostly
bleached with bisulphite,
— 17 — 2eu
The Dyeing of Loose Wi
Enter the well scoured and wetted out wool into a cold
bath charged per 1000 gallons liquor with 20 — 25 gallons bisul-
phite of 64 — 17 deg Tw. and 1 — 2 gallons concentrated sulphur-
ic acid, leave immersed therein for several hours while working
a little from time to time, then throw out, and allow to drain well.
Then sour off in a cold bath containing ^2 — 1 gallon concen-
trated sulphuric acid per 1000 gallons liquor, wash, and dry at
not too high a temperature. The bleaching is best done in
wooden, stone, or cement vats ; metal vats should be avoided
in order to exclude the risk of the wool turning out patchy.
In order to improve the clearness and purity of the white
and to produce the so-called porcelain-white, traces of any of
the following dyestuffs in solution are added to the bisulphite
bath or to the last rinsing bath :
Formyl Violet S4B— lOB
Methyl Violet B-6B
New Methylene Blue GG, N
according to the shade desired, particular care being taken that
the wool is worked very thoroughly.
Solid bisulphite may also be used in the place of the
bisulphite solution of 64 — 77 deg. Tw., one-third to one-half
of the afore-mentioned quantities being required when using the
solid form.
Sulphurous acid, which is marketed in a liquid or gaseous
form, may likewise be used for this purpose with advantage.
Dyeing. Loose wool may be dyed in open vessels or in
dyeing machines.
When using open vats, the normal volume of water should
be 30 to 40 times, when dyeing in machines only 10 to 20
times, the weight of the wool.
For the production of dyeings very fast to milling, the
Anthracene Colours are in the first place used, and some Acid
Colours which are especially fast to milling such as Milling
Yellow^ Milling Red, Wool Red, Formyl Violet^ Formyl Bltie,
Brillimit Milling Blue, Tetra Cyanole A, Brilliant Milling
Green and Anthracite Black. Numerous Diamine Colours are
also entirely fast to milling next to wool ; and some of this
group, as lor instance Diamine Fast Red F, Diamine Green G,
Diamine Broum M and B may by an aftertreatment with
metallic salts be fixed so completely as to withstand a severe
milling even next to cotton.
— 18 —
The Dyeing of Loose Wool.
Loose wool is dyed exactly according to the instructions
given on pages 4 to 14.
If dyestufF, acid or bichrome of potash are to be added
subsequently to the dyebath, such additions are made by sprink-
ling the diluted solutions of these ingredients over the wool ;
before doing so, however, the dyebaths should be cooled off to
some extent, especially when dyeing pale and medium shades.
When dyeing in machines, it is essential to use as soft
water as possible, condensed water to best advantage.
Dyestuffs which are sensitive to copper are dyed in copper
vessels, if necessary with the addition of about ^/2°/o sulpho-
cyanide of ammonia calculated on the weight of the wool. When
working continuously the copper becomes covered with a thin
coating which weakens the action of the copper on the dyestuffs
to a certain extent and should therefore not be removed un-
necessarily.
- 19
Dyestuffs for Greys,
Mode
For light milling
For heauier milling
Combinations of
a) Of good fastness to milling
Acid Yellow AT ^
Tropaeoline
Orange GG
Lanafuchsine 6B
next to wool and cotton:
Method I,
Combinations of
page i.
Milling Yellow 0, 00
Cyanole Fast Green
Milling Red G
Wool Red BG
^lethod
III,
Of better fastness to milling:
Brilliant ]SIilling Green B
Formyl Violet S4B
page 6
Combinations of
For Greys:
Milling Yellow 0,00]
Wool Red B, EG ^'^^ge g '
Cyanole Fast Green gJ
Anthracite Black B \ :^iethod III,
Anthracite Black R ) page 6
or,
b) Of good fastness to milling
combmations of
next to wool:
Diamine Yellow CP
Combinations of
Diamine Brown 3G, R, M, B
'V. ri-
Diamine Fast Yellow FF
^tt^
Oxy Diamine Brown G
1 f
Diamine Brown M, B
q-r- 1^
Diamine Catechine G
Diamine Catechine G
fill
Diamine Scarlet B, 3B
'p.X
Diamine Fast Red F
Diaminogene extra J
"
Diaminogene extra
"si?
Oxy Diamine Violet B
-m
The following dj'estuf fs of the above
combinations yield dyeings very fast to
The following dyestuffs of the
light :
above combinations yield dj'eings very
fast to light :
Acid Yellow AT
Milling Yellow 0, OO
Milling Yellow
Tropaeoline
Diamine Fast Yellow FF
Diamine Fast Red F
Orange GG
Lanafuchsine 6B
Diaminogene extra
Wool Red B
Oxy Diamine Violet B.
Cyanole Fast Green G
Diamine Yellow CP
Diamine Scarlet B, 3B
Diaminogene extra.
Shades and BroLuns on Loose Wool.
Excellently fast to milling and
light
Special properties of fastness
Combiijati
Anthracene
Anthracene
Anthracene
Anthracene
Anthracene
Anthracene
Anthracene
L-
Yellow BX
Acid Brown G
Chrome Brown
D, DW, SWN
Blue Black C
Chrome Red A
Chrome Blue G,
BB, F, R
Chrome Violet B
For brown shades especially
combinations of
Anthracene Chrome Brown
[DWN
Anthracene Acid
Brown G, N, B, V
Anthracene Yellow BN, C
Anthracene Chrome Red A
Anthracene Blue Black C
Anthracene Chrome Blue
G, BB, R
Anthracene Chrome Violet B
Anthracene Bhrome Black F,
P extra, PFB extra
Anthracene Chromate
Brown EB, 3G
Anthracene Yellow BN, C
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Anthracene Blue Black C
Wool Red B
For pearl shades:
Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BB
Anthracene Blue Black C
dyed with the addition
1 — 2",o chromium fluoride
2 — 3"/o acetic acid or
2 — 4",'o chrome alum
2— 3" acetic acid
for '/4 — 1 hour at the boil.
Dyestuffs fast to steaming:
All the colours named are excel-
lently fast to steaming, with the ex-
ception of
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Anthracite Black B, R
Diamine Brown R
Oxy Diamine Brown G
Diamine Catechine G
Diaminogene extra
the shades of which are slightly changed
by severe steaming.
Dyestuffs fast to carbonising:
All the colours named with the
exception of
Lanafuchsine 6 B
Oxy Diamine Brown G
Dyeings of Diamine Brown R should be
thorougly neutralised after carbonising.
D y e s t u f fs fast to stovi ng:
AU the colours named with the
exception of
Wool Red B, BG
Alphanol Blue BR extia
Diamine Scarlet B
Diamine Brown R
Oxy Diamine Brown G
Diaminogene extra
Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Acid Brown G
Anthracene Chromate Brown 3G
The following are fairly fast to stoving
and satisfactory for most purposes :
Milling Red G
Diamine Scarlet 3B
Diamine Brown 3 G
Diamine Catechine G
Anthracene Y'ellow C
Anthracene Chrome Brown
SWN, DWN
Anthracene Chromate Brown
EB.
21
Dyestuffs for VelloLu, Orange
For light milling
For heauier milling
Yellow :
Yellow and Orange:
* Tropaeline O Method I,
*Acid Yellow AT page 4
or
a) Of good fastness to milling
next to wool and cotton:
* Milling Yellow 0, OOi
Thioflavine S \
combined if necessary withi ^^^^hod
^Diamine Fast Yellow Ff[ ^^^^^o^i
* Diamine Yellow CP ^^„q 23
Milling Red G L ^'^
Rosazeine B, 13 J
* Diamine Gold j
b) Of good fastness to milling
next to wool:
Orange:
Thioflavine S
* Orange GG, Method I, page 4
* Diamine Fast Yellow FF
^
o
or
* Diamine Yellow CP
o
Oxy Diamine Orange G^ Method
* Diamine Gold
g
Oxy Diamine Orange R XII,
Diamine Orange F, B
Diamine Orange B P^S^ 13.
Oxy Diamine Orange G, R
>T3
1
or combinations of
* Diamine Yellow CP
For very bright shades of
* Diamine Scarlet B
Diamine Purpurine B
CO
O r a n ge :
or combinations of
Combinations of
*Milling Yellow O, 00\ Method
*Diamine Scarlet B j p™'g
*Acid Yellow AT \ Method I,
Rosazeine B, 13 | P^ge 4.
Pink :
Pink :
a) Of good fastness to milling
next to wool andcotton:
1
Rosazeine B, 13
1
Diamond Magenta la 1 ^Tethod
Magenta yellow shade j p^™i4
Method III or I, pages 4 and 6
b) Of good fastness to milling
or as stated in the next colum for
next to wool:
heavier milling.
Diamine Rose BD, GD \
^
Direct Rose T
■a rs
- 5"
^Diamine Scarlet B, 3B
U
brightened if necessary with
^^
Rosazeine B, 13
j~'
The dycstuffs marked with an asterisk
(*) yield dyeings very fast to light.
and Pink on Loose Wool.
Excellently fast to milling
and light
Special properties of fastness
Yellow :
Dyestuffs fast to steaming:
Anthracene Yellow C ]
Anthracene Yellow R i
Anthracene Yellow HN J
^lethod
All the dyestuffs mentioned possess
IX,
excellent fastness to steaming.
10.
Dyestuffs fast to carbonising.
All the dyestuffs mentioned, with
For greenish yello
tvs :
the exception of
Anthracene Yellow GG,
after-
Oxy Diamine Orange G
Oxy Diamine Orange R
treated with chromium
fluoride,
Method IX.
page 10.
Diamond Magenta la.
Magenta yellow shade.
A thorough neutralisation after
Orange:
carbonising is necessary with
Combinations of
Diamine Purpurine B.
Anthracene Yellow C
Method
Anthracene Yellow R
IX,
Dyestuffs fast to stoving:
Anthracene Yellow BN
page
Diamine Fast Red F
10.
All the dyestuffs mentioned, with
the exception of
Diamine Scarlet B
Anthracene Yellow BN
Oxy Diamine Orange G, R.
The following are fairly fast to
stoving and satisfactory for most
Pink:
purposes :
Diamine Fast Red F \
brightened if necessary with >
Method
XII,
page
Tropaeoline
Milling Red G
Diamine Scarlet 3B
Rosazeine B 13 )
]3.
Diamine Orange B
Anthracene Yellow C, R, GG
Diamond Magenta la
Magenta yellow shade.
Dyestuffs for Red, Claret
For light milling
For heavier milling
Red and Claret:
\Scarlet FR, F 2 R, F3R
Scarlet EC
* Crystal Scarlet 6R
* Amaranth
* Croceine AZ
*Lanafucbsine 6B
shaded if necessary with
Acid Violet 6BS'
Acid Violet 6 BC
^Tropaeoline O
Violet :
Methyl Violet 6B— 4R
Crystal Violet 5B bluish, 10 B.
Method XIII, page 14.
Acid Violet 6BC, 6 BS
shaded if necessary with
* Lanafuchsine 6B
Further,
* Oxy Diamine V^iolet B, R
* Diamine Violet N
shaded if necessary with
Diamine Sky Blue FF
Diamine Blue RW
* Dianiinogene extra
Method
I,
page 4.
Method
III,
page 6.
Red and Claret:
a) Of good fastness to milling
next to wool and cotton:
Milling Red G
* Milling Red FR
shaded if necessary with
Rosazeine B, 13
Formyl Violet S4B
b) Of good fastness to milling
next to wool:
Wool Red BG | Method III,
*Wool Red B | P^ge 6.
or
Diamine Red 4B, 6B, lOB
Diamine Purpurine B,
3B, 6B
* Diamine Scarlet B, 3B
* Diamine Brilliant Scarlet S
* Diamine Fast Red F
Diamine Bordeaux B*. S
* Diamine Brilliant BordeauxR
shaded if necessary with
*(3xy Diamine Violet B
* Diamine Yellow CP
Violet:
a) Ofgood fastness to milling
next to wool and cotton:
Formyl Violet S4B, |
S5B, 6B, 8B, lOB Method
Alkaline Violet C, CA m,
shaded if necessary with P^S^ ^•
Brilliant Milling Blue B '
b) Of good fastness to milling
next to wool:
*Oxy Diamine Violet B \ Method
* Diamine Violet N j pa'^c"i3.
The dyestuffs marked with an asterisk (*) yield dyeings very fast to light.
ind Violet on Loose Wool.
Excellently fast to milling
and light
Special properties of fastness
Dyestuffs fast to steaming:
Red and Claret:
All the dyesluifs mentioned are
excellently fast to steaming with the
Diamine Fast Red-^F
exception of
aftertreated with chrome.
Method
Scarlet EC
shaded if necessary with
XII,
Croce'ine AZ
Anthracene Yellow C
page
Diaminogene extra
Anthracene Yellow BN
l-i.
the shades of which turn somewhat
yellower and duller on severe steaming.
Wool Red B
further, combinations
of
Dyestutfs fast to carbonising:
All the dyestuffs mentioned, with
Diamine Fast Red F
the exception of
Amaranth
Anthracene Chrome
Method
Lanafuchhine 6B
Violet B
IX,
Diamine Brilliant Bordeaux R
Anthracene Chrome
page
lu.
Methyl Violet B-4R,
Blue R, F, FR
the shadesof which turn somewhat bluer.
Formyl Violet S4B
A thorough neutralising after the
(for blueing)
carbonising is required with
For dull clarets:
Diamine Brilliant Scarlet S
Anthracene Chrome
Diamine Red 4 B, 6 B, 10 B
Red A
Method
Diamine Purpurine B, 3 B, 6 B
VIII,
Diamine Bordeaux B.
shaded if necessary with
Anthracene Chrome
page
Dyestuffs fast to stoving:
9.
All the dyestuffs mentioned, with
Violet B
the exception of
Scarlet EC
Amaranth
Croce'ine AZ
Violet:
Milling Red FR
Anthracene Chrome Vic
)let B
Wool Red B, BG
shaded if necessary with
Formyl Violet 8 B, 10 B
Anthracene Chrome
Anthracene Yellow BN
Blue R,
F, FR
Diamine Scarlet B
P^^ j Formyl Viole
t S4Li
Diamine Bordeaux B
bri-hten- Formyl Blue
B
Diammogene extra.
ing. 1 Brilliant MiUir
g Blue B
The following are fairl}' fast to stoving
and satisfactory for most purposes :
Method VII
[, page 9.
Crystal Scarlet 6R
Milling Red G
Formyl Violet 6B
Methyl Violet B-4R
Diamme Red 4 B, 6 B, 10 B
Diamine Scarlet 3B
Anthracene Yellow C.
— 25
Dyestuffs for Blue
For light milling
For heauier milling
For bright blues:
Thiocarmine R ^
Telra Cyanole V, SF,
extra
brilliant Naphtol Blue
Method
I,
4B, B, R
r page
shaded with
4.
Acid Violet 6 BS
Acid Violet 6 BC
For navies and dark
h 1 u e s :
*Lanacyl Blue BB
* Lanacyl Blue R
* Lanacyl Violet B
* Lanacyl Navy Blue B
* Lanacyl Navy Blue BB
*Peri Wool Blue B
*Peri Wool Blue BG
*Peri Wool Blue G
or
Diamine Blue RW
* Diamine Blue RW
aftertreated with
sulphate of copper
Diamine Steel Blue L
*DiaminoCTene extra
Method
III,
page
6.
Method
11.
page 5.
^rethod
XII,
page
13.
The I.,anacyl Colours are also used
especially for blankets and coarse
overcoatings which are nulled with
fuller's earth.
For bright blues
Method
III,
page
6.
Method
VI,
page
8.
Brilliant MilhngBlueB
Formyl Blue B
Tetra Cyanole A
shaded with
Formvl Violet S4B
Billiant Milling Green B
*AlkalineBlue6B — 3R
shaded if necessary with
Alkaline Violet CA, C
For navies and dark blues:
Azo Chrome Blue T, TB
Method VIII, page 9
*Alplianol Blue BR extra
Method V, page 8.
* Anthracite Black B, R x g
shaded with "C 2.
Formyl Violet S4B-10B^|
Brilliant Milling Blue B «» ^
Formyl Blue B ) P'
* Anthracene Acid Black SHB^
shaded as staled above,
or, combinations of
* Anthracene Chrome Black
F, 5 B, P extra, PFB extra
*Anthracene Chrome Blue
FK, F, R
* Anthracene Chrome Violet H
* Anthracene Acid Blue BB,
BBX, 3B
if necessary shaded as stated above.
E s p e r i a II y cheap navies and
Hark blui
f moderate fastness
ght may bo produced with
Fotmlv V
oletj'
OB '
The dvestuffs marked with an asterisk
dyed with the addition
< 4 R 1 r> T5 I ot 4" sulphate of iron
^ ^ D— 1 U 15 ^ ._, „ ^ sulphate of copper
in combination j-j-a'a oxalic acid,
^'^'^ I or on a chrome roord-
Logwood ) ant (see page 88).
{*) yield dyeings very fast to light.
Shades on Loose Wool.
Excellently fast to milling
and light
Special properties of fastness
Anthracene | Method VIII, and
Chrome Bluei for FR Method
F, FRJ I^-
Anthracene Chrome) ACethod
Blue G, BE, B, R J VIII or X
Anthracene Chrome ]
Blue B\V extra. ^^5^1^°^^
RRW extra]
For cheaper blues:
Anthracene Acid Blue, Method IX,
BBN, BB, 3B, RTj page 10.
For especially bright blues:
Anthracene Acid Blue RR,
Method X, page 11.
Suitable shading dyestuffs are
the following:
Brilliant Milling Blue B]
Formyl Blue B | ^!'\
Formy IViolet S 4 B- 1 B | blues!
Brilliant Milling Green B
Anthracene Chrome
Black F, P extra,
PFB extra
(for one-bath dyeings)
Anthracene Acid
Black DSF
(for dyeings on chromed wool)
For very
deep
shades of
dark
blue.
The
fol
owing
dyestu
ffs
b
est
with
Stan
d th c
pott
ing
Pr
ocess
and c r o s
5-d y ei n
g in
in a
cidb
xth:
Anthracene Chrome Blue G, F, BB
Method V]II, page 9.
Dyestuffs fast to steaming:
All the dyestuffs mentioned are
excellently fast to steaming with the
excepti(jn of
Thiocarmine R
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
Lanacyl Violet B
Peri Wool Blue B, BG
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Anthracite Black B, R
Anthracene Acid Black DSF
Diamine Blue RW, aftertreated
with sulphate of copper
Diaminogene extra
which somewhat change their shade on
severe st^-aming.
Dyestuffs fast to carbonising:
All the dyestuffs mentioned, wich
the exception of
Alkaline Blue, all brands
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
Peri Wool Bme, all brands
Diamine Blue RW, aftertreated
with sulphate of copper and the Log-
wood combination mentioned.
Dyestuff s fast to stoving:
All the dyestuffs mentioned, with
the exception of
Thiocarmine R
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
Lanacyl Violet B
Lanacyl Navy Blue B, BB
Peri Wool Blue, all brands
Formyl Violet 8B, 10 B
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Diaminogene extra and the
Logwood combination mentioned.
Fairly fast to stoving and satisfactory
for most purposes are the following :
Formyl Violet 6B
Diamine Blue RW, aftertreated
with sulphate of copper
Anthracene Acid Black DSF.
— 27
Dyestuff for Green and
For light milling
For heauier milling
Napbtol Green B
Naphtol Dark
Green G
sliaded if necessary with
Lanacvl Blue BB, R
AliUinq Yellow O
WoofRed B
Cyanole FastGreenG,
for brightening
Or combinations of
Diamine Green G, B, CL'
Diamine Dark Green N
Diamine Yellow CP
Diamine Brown 3G
Diamine Scarlet B
Method II,
or Method
III for com-
binations
containing
LanacvlBlue,
Milling
Yellow,
Wool Red;
pages 5 & 6.
Method
XII,
page 13.
For vcrj- bright greens:
Acid Green extia cone.
Acid Green extra cone. B Method
Cyanole Fast Green G ^ I,
shaded if necessary with P^S^ ^^
Acid Yellow AT
The following dyestuffs of the above
combinations yield dyeings very fast to
light:
Xapbtol Green B
Naphtol Dark Green G
Cyanole Fast Green G
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
xMiUing Yellow O
Wool Red B
Acid Yellow AT
Diamine Green G, B
Diamine Dark Green N
Diamine Yellow CP
Diamine Scarlet B.
a) Of good fastness to
next to w
.1 and
Ci)mbinations of
Brilliant Milling Green B
Milling Yellow O Method
Milling Red G III,
Formyl Blue B P^ge O-
Tetra Cyanole A
Still faster to milling are
c o m b i n a t i o ;
Brilliant Milling Green Bj
Anthracene Yellow BN | ^^^^^^
UnUng Red G I page 10.
Formyl Blue B J
For bright greens:
Brilliant Milling Green Bi :\iethod
shaded with III,
Milling Yellow O I P'''-'^^ *^-
Still faster to milling is
Brilliant Milling Green B| :\rethod
shaded if necessary withS IX,
Anthracene Yellow BN JP'-^-^^ 10-
b) Of good fastness to milling
next to w
X
Combinations of
Diamine Green G
Diamine Fast Yellow FF
Diamine Catechine G
Diamine Brown M
Diamine Fast Red F
Diaminogene extra
The following dj-estuffs of the above
combinations yield dyeings ver}- fast
to light:
Milling Yellow O
Anthracene Yellow BN
Diamine Green G
Diamine Fast Yellow FF
Diamine Fast Red F
Diaminogene extra
Oliue Shades on Loose Wool.
Excellently fast to mil
and light
ing
Special properties of fastness
Combinations of
Anthracene Chrome^
Blue F, G, BB
Anthracene Blue Black C
Brilliant Milling Green B
for brightenine
Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Chrome
Brown D, DW, SWN
Anthracene Chrome
Red A
or, combinations of
AnthraceneChrome Blue
F, G, BB
Anthracene Blue Black C
Brilliant Milling GreenB,
for brightening;
Anthracene Yellow C
Anthracene (Chrome
Brown DWN
Anthracene Acid Brown
G, N, B
Anthracene Chrome
Black 5B, F, PFB
extra, P extra ^
for saddening
or again, combinations of
Anthracene Chromate
Green B
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Anthracene Blue Black C
Brilliant Milling GreenB,
for brightening
Anthracene Yellow
BN, C
Anthracene Chromate
Brown 3G, EB
Method
VIII,
page 9.
Method
IX,
page 10.
Method
XI,
page 12.
Dyestuffs fast to steaming:
All the dyestuffs mentioned are
excellently fast to steaming with the
exception of
Naphtol Green B
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Diamine Green B, G
Diaminogene extra
Diamine Catechine G,
which change a little in shade on
severe steaming.
Dyestuffs fast to carbonising:
All the dyestuffs mentioned, with
the exception of
Lanacyl Blue BB, R.
Dyestuffs fast to stoving:
All the dyestuffs mentioned, with
the exception of
Wool Red B
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Acid Green extra cone.
Acid Green extra cone. B.
Diaminogene extra
Diamine Scarlet B
Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Acid Brown G
Anthracene Chromate
Brown 3G.
The following are fairly fast to
stoving and satisfactory tor most
purposes :
Naphtol Green B
Milling Red G
Diamine Brown 3G
Diamine Catechine G
Anthracene Yellow C
Anthracene Chrome Brown
SWN, DWN
Anthracene Chromate
Brown EB.
29 -
Dyestuffs for Blacks
For light milling
Fast to milling and light
(Direct flcid Blacks, fast to light)
Alpbanol Black BG, R
Anthracene Acid Black\
Method III, page 6.
DSST
Naphtyl Blue Black
Anthracene Acid
Method
N Method
Black SW
IX,
FB IV,
For reddish blacks:
' page 10.
FBB P^^*" '•
Anthracene Acid Black
(chiefly for blue blacks)
LWi
Alpbanol Black and Naphtyl Blue
The following products level very
Black FB and HBB possess the best
easily :
fastness to milling and withstand even
Anthracene Acid Black SR
a rather severe milling.
Anthracene Acid Black SRG
Anthracene Acid Black SA
For cheap, full blacks:
Anthracene Acid Black SBB
Xaphtylamine Black | Method
NBB r IV,
RNB J P^g« ">■
(For blue-blacks)
Method VIII, page 9.
Anthracene Acid Black SR, SRG,
SA and SBB are very fast to milling,
especially next to wool, whereas the
other brands are fast to milling both
Sui tab! e shading products:
next to cotton and wool.
For blacks with a pronounced
Suitable shading products:
bluish cast:
For blacks with a very bluish cast :
Formyl Violet S4B— lOB,
Formyl Violet S4B — lOB
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Formyl Blue B
Formyl Blue B
Tetra Cyanole A
Tetra Cyanole A
Brilliant Milling Green B.
Brilliant Milling Green B
for
dveings
For jet blacks :
Anthracene Chrome
Milling Yellow O
Blue FR, F, BB
Anthracene Acid Blue
required
; to be
Anthracene Yellow C.
BBN
particul-
arly fast
Anthracene Chrome
to light
Violet B
1
For jet blacks :
Anthracene Yellow C, BN
Anthracene Acid Brown G.
!
30
on Loose Wool.
Excellently tost to milling
and light
Special properties of fastness
Anthracene Chrome Black
PFB extra, PFBB extra,
PF extra, PFR extra,
PR extra, P extra, PPN extra,
5B, F, FE, FR
Anthracene Acid Black
DSN, DSF, DSFB, DNG
Withstanding the potting
process best :
Anthracene Chrome Black
P extra, PPN extra, PF extra,
PFB extra, PR extra
Anthracene Chrome Black 5B
Foracid cros s-d }' e i n g, t h e foil ow-
ing c o m e into consideration:
Anthracene Chrome Black
P extra, PF extra,
PFB extra, F
Anthracene Acid Black
DSN, DSF.
To obtain good fastness to acid cross-
dyeing, the dyeings should be chromed
somewhat more heavily than usual for
instance with the following quantities ;
l';a",'o bichrome for 4^1^ dyestuff
S'aOo ,, ,, 60/0
Suitable shading products:
The same as mentioned on page
sounder the heading of "Fast to milling
and light".
Dyestuffs fast to steaminj
All the dyestuffs mentioned with-
stand normal steaming.
The following are excellently fast
to steaming :
Anthracene Acid Black,
all brands, with the exception of
LW, DSN, DSF and DSFB
An thracene Chrome Black, all brands
Anthracene Chrome Blue ,, ,,
Anthracene Acid Blue ,, ,,
Anthracene Chrome Violet B
Anthracene Yellow C, BN
Anthracene Acid Brown G
Milling Yellow O
Formyl Violet, all brands
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Formyl Blue B
Tetra Cyanole A
Brilliant Milling Green B
Dyestuffs fast to carbonising:
All the dyestuffs mentioned with
the exception of
Naphtyl Blue Black, all brands
Naphtylamine Black RNB, NBB
Anthracene Acid Black SW, LW
Dyestuffs fast to stoving:
All the dyestuffs mentioned, with
the exception of
Alphanol Black BG, R
Naphtyl Blue Black, all brands
Naphtylamine Black RNB, NBB
Anthracene Acid Black SW, LW
Anthracene Yellow BNT
Anthracene Acid Brown G
Formyl Violet 8B, 10 B.
The following are fairly fast to stoving
and satisfactory for most purposes :
Anthracene Yellow C
Formyl Violet 6 B
Anthracene Acid Black SA,
DSN, DSF, DSFB, DSST.
The Dyeing of Loose Wool.
The Production of Mixtures of extremely good Fastness
to Light.
In the place of white wool for producing pale mixtures
fast to light, wool stained by means of metallic salts may be
used, of which a much laiger percentage may be employed than
of the white wool without giving; the mixture the appearance
of unlevelness. This method holds out a special advantage in
that correspondingly smaller quantities of the ground shade are
necessary than when employing white wool for mixing, but being
dyed double as deep again, the fastness to light of the mixture
is increased enormously. The wool stained with metallic salts
and to be used for mixing purposes possesses absolute fastness
to light even when exposed for months or years. (See also the
special chapter on Military and other Uniform or Livery Cloths).
The method has been protected to us by Letters Patent in
all countries. Two shades come chiefly into consideration for
mixing purposes, viz:
A) Wool dyed a greenish shade:
Charge the bath with
3 ^,0 bichrome
0,5^ jo sulphate of copper
5 — 7^/o formic acid 85 °/o,
enter the scoured wool at 60 — lO'^C (140 — 160 deg. F.), raise
to the boil, and continue boiling for 1 '/2 to 2 hours; the wool
will first be of a yellow colour but w'ill later on assume a green
shade, and if the liquor is then perfectly clear, the wool is
thrown out at once, rinsed, and dried.
B) Wool dyed a drab shade:
Dye the previously well scoured wool as described under
(A); cool off the bath when exhausted, add
2 ^jo thiosulphate (hyposulphite) of soda
and boil for another ^jz hour ; then rinse, and dry.
A similar shade is produced by boiling the wool with
2 °/o chrome alum
2"/o sulphate of copper
3^0 oxalic acid
and adding subsequently
2°/o thiosulphate (hyposulphite) of soda.
32 —
DYEING OF SLUBBING AND YARN.
3eu
Dyeing of Slabbing and Wool Yarn.
Washing and Degreasing of Slabbing. Before dyeing,
the slubbing is as a rule welted out evenly in the dyeing
machine, and if necessary degreased with some ammonia. After
dyeing, it is washed in the back-wash, given a light soap passage
in order to facilitate further operations, dried, and combed.
Bleaching of Slubbing. Slubbing is bleached like wool
yarn either by being hung up in the stoving chamber, or by
being treated with bisulphite (see page 18), It may in certain
instances also be bleached with peroxide of hydrogen or peroxide
of soda, which process is described on page 36. These bleaching
operations are to best advantage carried out in wooden vessels,
using the slubbing in the form of hanks, not on bobbins.
Machines used for bleaching with bisulphite should be tin-plated.
Scouring and Degreasing of Wool Yarn. Most yarns
are scalded before the washing m order to avoid any felting and
to keep them smooth and in good condition for reeling.
Greasy yarns should be thoroughly washed after the scalding;
yarns which are not scalded must also be degreased well before
dyeing. The scouring is done at 35 — 45^ C (95— llSdeg. F.)
with the addition of about 3 "/o soda or ammonia and 5°/o soap,
calculated on the weight of the yarn.
Knitting and hosiery yarns intended to be dyed black are
sometimes not degreased until after the dyeing, being then rinsed
in a lukewarm bath containing 2 "/o soda (of the weight of the
yarn) and soaped at 45^ C (115 deg F.) in as soft water as
possible (best of all condensed water) with 10 ^/o neutral soap;
they are then thoroughly hydroextracted and dried without rinsing.
— 35 — 3*eii
Dyeing of Slabbing and AVool Y
Bleaching of Wool Yarn. This material is bleached accord-
ing to various methods.
Stor/77g. Enter the well scoured yarns at 40 — 50'^ C
(105 — 120 deg. F.) into a soap bath containing 3 — 8 oz neutral
soap or curd soap per 10 gallons liquor, according to the hardness
of the water, work well for ^/4 to ^/2 hour, throw out, whizz
as evenly as possible but not too severely, hang overnight in
the stoving chamber, wash well the next morning, and dry, best
in a shady place, in the air, or in the drying chamber at not
too high a temperature. In order to improve the clearness of
the white, add to the soap bath as per details given on page
18 a small quantity of Blue, Violet, etc. or some Alkaline Blue.
Bleaching with Bisulphite. This veiy common method is
described on page 18.
Bleaching 7vith Permangonate and Siilphiirotis Acid. Work
the well scoured and wetted material for ^'2 hour in a cold bath
containing 3 — 4^2 oz permanganate of potash per 10 gallons
liquor, throw out, allow to drain, and enter into a fresh bath
charged with 4 lbs bisulphite of 10 — 77 deg Tw. and 4^2 oz
concentrated sulphuric acid per 10 gallons liquor. Leave the
yarns in this bath for about 2 hours v/hilst turning them
frequently, or immerse . after having turned them several
times, taking care that they are completely covered by the
liquor, and only lift when they have changed from the
brown colour they had at first assumed to a pure white. Then
rinse thoroughly, and dry at a moderate temperature.
Bleaching with Peroxide of Hydrogen or Sodium Peroxide
yields the clearest white. This operation is carried out in wooden,
stone, cement or earthenware troughs which should be provided
with a lead steam-coil. The starting baths are charged per
10 gallons cold water:
a) when using peroxide of hydrogen., with
1 ^/2 — 2 gallons peroxide of hydrogen (commercial quality)
of 3°/o, and just enough ammonia to make the bath react slightly
alkaline (bluing red litmus paper just slightly);
b) when using sodizim peroxide, with
10 — 21 oz concentrated sulphuric acid and
'/a — lib sodium peroxide;
the latter is gradually added, whilst stirring, to the acidulated
bath, which is then neutralised with ammonia as above stated.
— 36 -
Dyeing of Slubbing and Wool Yarn.
The bath is then heated to 40 <^ C. (105 deg F.), the well
scoured wool entered, worked lor some time, and then immersed
so as to be completely covered by the liquor; it is then left for
several hours in this bleaching liquor at a temperature of 40
to 50" C (105-120 deg. F.) until the desired effect has been
attained. Wools which are difficult to bleach or which are to
be bleached a very pure white are then thrown out and left
lying overnight unrinsed in a place free from dust. The next
day the goods aie soured off in fresh, cold water with the addition of
V2 gallon bisulphite of 70 — 77 deg. Tw. and '/2 pint concentrated
sulphuric acid per 10 gallons liquor, rinsed in fresh water which
may contain traces of a blue or violet dyestuff for brightening,
whizzed, and dried at not too high a temperature. The baths
for the bleaching may be used over again, and to this end are
acidulated with just enough sulphuric acid to show a slightly
acid reaction (blue litmus paper must just be reddened by the
liquor) ; when used for subsequent lots they are then freshened
up with one-third to one-half the quantities used for the starting
bath, as above stated.
Silicate of soda may be used in the place of ammonia for
neutralising the bleaching liquors ; in such case the unexhausted
bleaching liquors are used for giving the goods a preliminary
bleach in the old baths without any further addition, the bleach-
ing being then completed in a stronger fresh bath.
The sodium peroxide is weighed on stone, metal, glass or
porcelain, because the dry product must not come into contact
with wood, paper, paste-board, etc.
Dyeing. Slubbing is mostly dyed in the form of tops,
machines being used in which either several tops are placed
on a cylindrical perforated pipe, or which contain a number of
receptacles (revolvers) with perforated bottoms and front-pieces
each to be filled with one or more of these tops. The liquor
is forced or sucked through the tops by means of a pump or
similar mechanical contrivance. With some machines it may
be requisite to turn the bobbins once during the dyeing operation.
Machines similar to the Klauder-Weldon hank dyeing machine
are also in use, in which the slubbing is worked in the form,
of hanks on a winch partly submerged in the liquor.
Woollen and worsted yarns are mostly dyed in form
of hanks in vats, sometimes also in machines, the latter being
especially useful for the dyeing of knitting yarns, Berlin wool,
— 37 -
Dyeing of Slubbing and Wool Yarn,
and other materials prone to felt. Quite recently, yarn is also
machine-dyed, in the form of cops or cheeses. For detailed
instructions of machine-dyeing see the subsequent separate chapter
dealing with this subject.
Yarns in hanks are as a rule dyed in rectangular wooden
vats, a little higher than the reel of the hanks to be dyed.
Open or closed steam pipes of copper or hard lead are used
for heating the vats ; iron pipes are less suitable.
The vats should be of a capacity to hold a volume of
liquor corresponding to about 40 times the weight of the yarn
to be dyed.
For the dyeing of Shihhing and Yarn,
1) Acid Colours,
2) Anthracene Colours,
3) Diamine Colours,
4) Basic Colours and Eosines
may be used, according to the demands made.
The Acid Colours are used on slubbing for producing
dyeings at as low a cost as possible, principally for slubbmg
used for hat and fancy trimmings, embroidery and knitting
yarns, and Berlin wool For yarns, Acid Colours are used very
extensively, serving chiefly for the dyeing of fancy yarns, Berlin
wool, embroidery, knitting and carpet yarns.
Anthracene Colours (Chrome Colours) are given the
preference for dyeings which in addition to very good fastness
to light are required to possess best possible fastness to milling.
Diamine Colours are used very extensively for the
production of dyeings fast to washing and milling, especially
pale compound shades, yellows, reds, clarets, and browns. They
are especially favoured for the dyeing of knitting, hosiery and
carpet yarns, as well as of yarn for the manufacture of flannels,
blankets, and the like.
Basic Colours and Eosines are applied principally
for the dyeing of Berlin wool and for producing bright shades
such as for instance, light sulphurised (stoved) colours, red,
green, etc.
For details relating to the stripping — before dyeing — of
yarns manufaciured from coloured shoddies, see the instructions
Dyeing of Slubbing and Wool Yarn.
regarding the stripping of coloured shoddy given in the subsequent
chapter on the dyeing of Half-wool and Shoddy,
The Production of Mixtures very fast to Light.
The method described on page 32 for loose wool may
also be applied for the dyeing of slubbing. This material is
stained with metallic salts to pale shades, in dyeing machines,
and the wool so dyed, which possesses a fastness to light
unattainable with other dyestuffs, may then be used for pale
mixtures distinguished by an eminent resistance to light.
— 39 -•
Dyestuffs
for
Greys, Mode Shades and
Simplest and cheapest method
Of good fastness to u;ashing
of production
and milling
Combinations of
a) Of good fastness to washing
Naphtol Yellow S "l
and milling next to wool and
Indian Yellow FF
Orange II, extra
cotton:
1
Combinations of
Azo Orseille BB
*MimngYellowO, OO 1
(for light shades)
Lanafuchsine SB, SG
, Milling Red G
(for fuller shades)
*Wool Red B, BG
Method
Indigo Blue X
Brilliant Milling
III,
or, of somewhat better fast-
g
Green B
page 6.
ness to light, of
n
* Cyanole Fast Green G
Acid Yellow AT
i
Formyl Violet S4B
Tropaeoline OO,
_HH
or of
Orange GG, II, extra, IV
■'d
* Diamine Fast
Azo Orseille BB
CTQ
Yellow FF
Method
XII,
(for light shades)
_rf^
Diamine Brown M, B
page 13,
Lanafuchsine SB, SG
Diamine Catecbine G
with after-
(for fuller shades)
* Diamine Fast Red F
treatment
Cyanole Green B, 6 G
* Diamine Violet N
with
chrome.
Tetra Cyanole V
*Diaminogene extra
Of still better fastness to
For Greys:
light, of
Acid Yellow AT
* Anthracite Black B | Method
Orange GG,
* Anthracite Black R j III, page 6.
Lanafuchsine SG
*Diaminogene extra
Cyanole Fast Green G.
Method XII, page 13.
Of good fastness to washing
The following dyestuffs of the
above combinations are fastest to light :
Acid Yellow AT
and milling next to wool:
Combinations of
Indian Yellow FF
* Diamine Yellow CP
Orange, all brands
Diamine Brown R, M, B
Azo Orseille BB
Oxy Diamine Brown G
Lanafuchsine SB, SG
Diamine Catecbine G
Method
> XII,
page 13.
Csanole Fast Green G
* Diamine Scarlet B, 3B
Cyanole Green B, 6G
Diamine Rose BD
Tetra Cyanole V.
*Diaminogene extra
*Oxy Diamine Violet B
^
The dyestuffs marked with an
asterisk (*) are fastest to light.
40 —
Brou;ns on Slubbing and Varn.
Excellently fast to milling
and light
Special properties of
fastness
^
y.
X
Combinations of
Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Acid Brown G
Anthracene Chrome Brown
D, DW, SWN
Anthracene Chrome Red A
Anthracene Blue Black C
Anthracene Chrome Blue
G, BB, F
Anthracene Chrome VioletB
For brown shades also combin
ations of
Anthracene Chrome Brown "^
DWN
Anthracene Acid Brown
G, N, B, V
Anthracene Yellow BN, C
Anthracene Chrome Red A
Anthracene Blue Black C
Anthracene Chrome Blue
G, BB, R
Anthracene Chrome Violet B
Anthracene Chrome Black
F, P, extra, PFB extra
Anthracene Chromate
Brown EB, 3G
Anthracene Yellow BN, C
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Anthracene Blue Black C
Wool Red B
F o r p e a r 1 shades:
Anthracene Chrome Blue BB, G
Anthracene Blue Black C
d3-ed with the addition of
1— 2"/o chromium fluoride
2— 3»/o acetic acid
or
2—4 chrome alum
2 — H^/o acetic acid
for ^ 4 to 1 hour at the boil.
Dj'estuffs fast to steaming:
All the dyestuffs named are excellently
fast to steaniint;, with the exception of
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Anthracite Black B, R
Diamine Brown R
Oxy Diamine Brown G
Diamine Catechine G
Diaminogene extra,
the shades of which are slightly changed
on severe steaming.
D 3' e stuffs fast to carbonising:
All the dyestuffs named are fast to
carbonising, with the exception of
Azo Orseille Bl*.
Oxy Diamine Brown G
which become somewhat bluer in shade.
The material must be well neutralised
after carbonising when dyed with one
of the following dyestuffs:
Tropaeoline OO, Orange IV
Diamine Brown R.
Dyestuffs fast to stoving:
All the dyestuffs named, with the
exception of
Indigo Blue N, Wool Red B, BG
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Diamine Scarlet B
Diamine Brown R
Oxy Diamine Brown G
Diaminogene extra
Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Acid Brown G
Anthracene Chromate Brown 3G.
Fairly fast to stoving and satisfactory
for most purposes are
Tropaeoline O, OO, Orange II
Milling Red G
Diamine Scarlet 3B
Diamine Catechine G
Anthracene Yellow C
Anthracene Chrome Brown
SWN, DWN
Anthracene Chromate Brown EB.
Dyesfuffs for VelloLUs, Oranges and
Simplest and cheapest method
of production
Of good fastness to luashing
and milling
Yellow.
For very bright yellows:
*China Yellow B \
Naphtol Yellow S | Method T,
*Acid Yellow AT ' P^ge 4.
*Fast Yellow S I
or for the dyeing of yarn :
Thioflavine T,Method XIII, page u,
pale shades according to
instructions on page 54.
For more covered yellows:
*Metanil Yellow \
*Tropaeoline O, 00, G | Method I,
*Orange IV ( page 4
Indian Yellow G, R, FF
Orange.
*Orange GG, II, i
extra, R
"Orange EN, ENZ I
For very bright oranges
Combinations of
Naphtol Yellow S I
*Acid Yellow AT
Rosazeine B, 13 '
or especially for the dyeing of }-arn
Method I,
page 4.
Method I,
page 4.
Method XIII,
page 14;
pale shades
according to
page 54
Method III,
page 6.
Thioflavine T i
Rosazeine B, 13 J
Irisamine G |
Pink:
Rosazeine B, 13
Irisamine G
Eosines
all brands |
pale shades according to
on page 54.
For very cheap pinks:
Diamond Magenta la ( ^xui^
Magenta yellow shade j page 14
The dyestuffs marked
MethodVlII,
page 8 ;
nstructions
Yellow.
a) O f good f ast n ^ss to wash in g and
milling next to wool and c o 1 1 o ti :
*Milling Yellow O, OO^
Method II r, page 6.
b) Of goo d fastness to washing
and milling next to wool:
Thioflavme S i
*DiamineFastYe]lowFF| Method
*Diamine Yellow CP ( ^^\\,
Diainine Gold I
Orange.
a) Of good fastness to w ashing and
milling next to wool and cotton :
Combinations of
^Milling Yellow O, 00 | Method
Milling Red G III,
Rosazeine B, 13 J P^^^ 6.
b) Of good fastness to washing
and milling next to wool:
Oxy Diamine Orange s
G, R
Diamine Orange F, B Method
or combinations of XII,
*Diamine Yellow CP page 18-
^Diamine Scarlet B
Diamine Purpurine B
Pink.
a^ Ofgoodfastness to washing and
milling next to wool and cotton:
Rosazeine B, 13 ^ Method III,
Irisamine G | page 6;
shades according to page 54
b) Of good fastness to washing
and milling next to wool:
Diamine Rose BD, GD
Direct Rose T
^Diamine Scarlet B, 3B
Rosazeine B, 13
th an asterisk (*) yield dyeings very fast to light
Method
XII,
page 13.
Pinks on Slubbing
and yarn.
Excellently fast to milling
Special properties of
and light
fastness
Dyestuffs fast to steamine:
Yellow.
All the dyestuffs namt-d, wiUi the
Anthracene Yellow BNT . Method
exception of
Thioflavine T
Anthracene Yellow C / IX,
Anthracene Yellow R ' P'-^g^ ^0-
Eosine BN
Eosine Scarlet B
For greenish yellows:
Erythrosine, all brands
Rose Bengale extra N
the shades of which are changed a
Anthracene Yellow GG, aftertreated
with chromium fluoride. Method IX,
page 10.
little on severe steaming.
Dyestuffs fast to carbonising:
All the dyestuffs named, with the
Orange.
exception of
Combinations of
Thioflavine T
Eosine, all brands
Anthracene Yellow BN
Diamond Magenta I a
Anthracene Yellow C
Method
Magenta yellow shade
Irisamine G
Oxy Diamine Orange G, R.
Anthracene Yellow R
and
Diamine Fast Red F J
IX,
page 10.
The material must be well neutra-
lised after carbonising when dyed with
one of the following dyestuffs:
Fast Yellow S
Pink.
Metanil Yellow
Diamine Fast Red F, ] -^^^^^^^
Tropaeoline 00, G
dyed direct, XII,
Orange IV
shaded with page 13.
Diamine Purpurine B. •
Rosazeine B, 13 J
Dyestuffs fast to stoving:
All the dyestuffs named with the
exception of
Fast Yellow S
Anthracene Yellow BN
Oxy Diamine Orange G, R
Diamine Scarlet B
The following are fiiirly fast to stoving
and satisfaciory for most purposes:
Metanil Yellow
Tropaeoline, all brands
Orange IV, Milling Red G
Anthracene YMlow C, R, GG
Diamine Orange B
Diamine Scarlet .3B
Diamond Magenta la
Magenta yellow shade.
4:3
Dyestuffs for Red, Claret and
Simplest and cheapest method
of production
Of good fastness to tuashing
and milling
Red and Claret.
* Brilliant Scarlet, all brands
* Crystal Scarlet 6R
* Scarlet FR, FRR, F3R
Scarlet EC
* Brilliant Cochineal 2R, 4R
*Naphtol Red EB, C
* Amaranth, *Azo Rubine A
Azo Red A, Roccelline
* Brilliant Croceine, 1 especi-
all bran
ds all
J to
V fast
'^Croceine AZ
light.
*Lanafuchsine SG,
SB,
6B 1
*Azo Orseille BB
Acid Magenta
and for very fier\
reds
Rosazeine B
in combination with
* Orange extra or
Xaphtol Yellow
s
Violet.
Acid Violet 6BS, 4RS| Method
*Azo AVooI Violet I,
7R, 4b1 P^^^*-
*Lanacyl Violet B,
Method III, page 6.
Methyl Violet 6 B — 4R^ Method
Crystal Violet 5B XTII,
bluish, lOBJP^se u.
]Methyl Violet i for verj- light
" gg 3g clear lilac shades
^ i. 1 ^r- 1 ^ dved in a soap
Crystal Violet | baVh and stoved:
5 B bluish, 10 B
page 54.
Red and Claret.
a) Of good fastness to washing
and milling next to ^^•ool and
cotton :
Method
III,
page 6.
:Method
III,
page 6.
lOB
Milling Red G, *FR
shaded with
Rosazeine B, 13
Formyl Violet S4B
Tetra Cyanole A )
b) Of good fastness to washing
and milling next to wool:
*Wool Red B, BG
shaded with
Formyl Violet S4B
* Milling Yellow O
Diamine Red 4 B, 6 B
Diamine Purpurine B, 3B, 6B
* Diamine Scarlet B, 3B
* Diamine Fast Red F (direct)
Diamine Bordeaux S, *B
Diamine Brilliant Bordeaux R
shaded if necessary with
* Oxy Diamine Violet B
* Diamine Yellow CP
Satisfactory for many purposes are :
* Scarlet FR. F2R,' i ^,^,^^^
F3R II,
* Croceine, all brands J P'l&e 5.
Violet.
a) Of good fastness t o washing
o o 1 and
§
X
and milling next t(
cotton:
Formyl Violet S 4 B— 1 B^ Method
Alkaline Violet CA, C jlH.P.G.
b) Of good fastness to washine
and milling next to wool:
* Oxy Diamine Violet B, R| ^lethod
Diamine Violet N
The dyestuffs marked with an asterisk ('
XII,
I page 13.
') yield dyeings of yery good fastness to light.
44
Violet on Slubbing
an
d yarn.
Excellently fast to milling
and light
Special properties of fastness
Red and Claret.
Dyestuffs fast to stoving:
Diamine Fast Red^F,
All the dyestuffs named, with the ex-
chromed Method
ception of
shaded if necessary with XII,
Brilliant Scarlet R-4R *6 R
Anthracene Yellow BN, P^S« l'^-
^Crystal Scarlet 6R
Wool Red B [C
*Roccelline, Scarlet EC
Naphtol Red KB, C, Amaranth
Also combinations of
Brilliant Croceine, Croceine AZ
Diamine Fast Red F ^
Milling Red FR, *G, Wool Red
Anthracene Chrome Violet
^
B, BCt
B
Acid Magenta, Acid Violet 4RS
Anthracene Chrome Blue
<^§.
Lanacyl Violet B
R, F, FR
^F
Formyl Violet *6B, 8B, lOB
Formyl Violet S4B
Diamine Scarlet B, *3B
(tor brightening)'^
♦Diamine Red 4B, 6B
For duller claret shades-
Diamine Bordeaux B
Anthracene Chrome
Diaminogene extra
Red A
shaded if necessary with
Method
VIII,
Anthracene Yellow BN, *C
Methyl Violet B — 4R.
Anthracene Chrome
page 9.
The dyestuffs marked with an asterisk Oat's satis-
factory for most purposes in fastness to stoving.
Violet B
Violet.
Dyestuffs fast to steaming:
All the dyestuffs named with the exception of
Anthracene Chrome
\^
Brilliant Croceine, Croceine AZ
Violet B
Scarlet EC. Acid Violet 4RS
shaded if necessary with
o
Lanacyl Violet B, Diaminogene extra
Anthracene Chrome Blue
Dyestuffs fast to carbonising:
R, F, FR
All the dyestuffs named with the exception of
Suitable for brightening:
^
Acid Violet, 4RS, Irisamine G
Formyl Violet S4B
M
Diamine Brilliant Bordeaux R
Brilliant :Milling Blue B
Methyl Violet B— 4R.
Formyl Blue B
CO
Naphtol Red C, Amaranth Kre fairly
Brilliant Orseille C { fast to
Lanafuchsine 6B Jearbonis-
Azo Wool Violet 7R j ing
Diamine Red tB, 6B, lOB ^^^^ ^^^
Diamine Purpurine well
all brands I neutralised
Diamine Brilliant Scarlets after
Diamine Bordeaux B J carbonising
45
Dyestuffs for Blue Shades
Simplest and cheapest method
of production
Of good fastness to washing
and milling
For bright blues:
*Cyanole FF, extra, AB
*Tetra Cyanole V, SF, cxtn
Indigo Blue N, SGN
shaded if necessary with
Acid Violet 6BS
Alkaline Blue, all brands i Method
shaded if necessary withV VI,
Alkaline Violet CA, C I P^g« ^■
For very clear, ligh t shades of
blue on yarn:
Victoria Blue B, dyed in a soap bath
and subsequently stoved (see page 54).
For navies and dark blues:
*Azo Wool Blue SE, SER ]
*Azo Navy Blue B, 3 B
*Acid Navy Blue A
Brilliant Naphtol Blue
4B*, B*, R
*Azo Wool Violet 4B, 7R
shaded with
Acid Violet 6 BS
*Orange GG, II, extra
*Cyanole Green B, 6G
*Cyanole Fast Green G etc.
For shades excellently fast
to light:
*Peri Wool Blue B, BG, G
Method II, page 5.
*Lanacyl Blue BB, R \
* Lanacyl Navy Blue B,BB(^Iyj^j°<i
*Lanacyl Violet B I page 'e.
*Naphtol Blue G, R
OOfgood fastness to washingand
Billing nextto woo 1 and cotton.
For bri
The dvcstuflFs marked with an asterisk (*) yield dyeings of
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Formyl Blue B
*Tetra Cyanole A
shaded il necessary with
Formyl Violet ^4B
Brilliant Milling Green B
*Alkaline Blue, all brands! Method
Alkaline Violet CA, C (page's.
Water Blue R, B. RB,
Method II, page 5.
Water Blue and Alkaline Blue must
be soured off after milling.
For navies an d dark blues:
*Azo"Cbrome Blue, Meth. VIII, p. 9.
Alphaiiol Blue BR extra, M.V,p. 8.
^Anthracite Black B, R
shaded with the above stated dyestuffs.
Method III, page 6.
♦Anthracene Acid Black SBB
♦Anthracene Chrome Black F,
5B, P extra. PFB extra
shaded as before stated, or with
♦Anthracene Chrome Blue
FR, F, R
Method IX, page 10.
Combinations i dyed with
of i^'^lo sulphate of iron
Formyl Violet U°l'^ sulphate ot copper
Q A R 1 R (-—-^ °'» "'^''^''^ '''^"^
otD ^UD Qj. Qj^ chromed yarn
Logwood j (page 88 .
b) Of good fastness t o .v a s h i n g
and mil ling next to wool:
Diamine Sky Blue FF \^ J
Diamine Blue, RW, 2B, 3B, Bx| | 5-
Diamine Steel Blue L \- <
CO |_J
♦Diaminogene extra ) ^
od fastness to lit'ht
— 46
on Stubbing and Varn.
Excellently fast to milling
and light
Special properties of fastness
Anthracene Chrome Blue F, G,
BB, B, R Method VIII, page 9.
Anthracene Chrome Blue FR,
Method IX, page 10.
Anthracene Chrome Blue BW
extra, RRW extra, G, B, BB, R,
Alethod X, page 11.
For cheaper blues:
Anthracene Acid Blue BBN, BB,
3B, RT
Method IX, page 10.
For especially bright blues:
Anthracene Chrome i
Blue FD I ^^^"'^
Anthracene Acid Blue I page' 11.
GG, RrJ
Suitable shading dyestuffs:
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Formyl Blue B
Tetra Cyanole A
Formyl Violet
S4B— lOB
Brilliant Milling Green B^
Anthracene Chrome Black
F, P extra, PFB extra
(for one-dip dyeirgs)
Anthracene Acid Black
DSF, DSN
(for dyeings on a mordant)
Withstanding best the potting
process and acid cross-dyeing:
Anthracene Chrome| Method VIII,
Blue G, F, BBJ page 9.
for
brighter
blues
Dyestuffs fast to steaming:
All the dyestuffs named, with the
exception of
Peri Wool Blue B, BG
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
Lanacyl Violet B
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Anthracite Black B, R
Anthracene Acid Black DSF, DSN
Diamine Sky Blue^ aftertreated
FF Iwith sulphate
Diamine Blue RwJ of copper
Diaminogene extia, Victoria Blue B
the shades of which are changed
somewhat on severe steaming.
Dyestuffs fast to carbonising:
All the dyestuffs named, with the
exception of
Azo Wool Violet 7 R (fairly fast)
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
Peri Wool Blue, Water Blue
Victoria Blue B, Alkaline Blue
Diamme Sky Blue) aftertreated
T^p I with
j sulphate of
Diamine Blue RW | copper
and the Logwood combination stated.
Dyestuffs fast to sto'ving:
All the dyestuffs named, with the
exception of
Indigo Blue N, SGN
Peri Wool Blue, all brands
Lanacyl Blue BB, R,
Lanacyl Navy Blue B, BB
Lanacyl Violet B
Water Blue, Acid Green,
Formyl Violet 8 H, 10 B
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Diaminogene extra
and the Logwood combination stated.
The following are fairly fast to stoving
and satisfactory for most purposes:
Formyl Violet 6B
Anthracene Acid Black DSF, DSN
Diamine Sky Blue F F \ <'i< te 1 1. eaied
Diamine Blue RW j^'th sulphate
' ot copper
Dyestuffs for Green and Oliue
Simplest and cheapest method
of production
Of good fastness to washing
and milling
Method
II,
page 5.
* Cyanole Green B, 6G
*Cyanole Fast Green G
*Naphtol Dark Green G
shaded if necessary with
Naphtol Yellow S
* Indian Yellow FF
*Tropaeoline OO, O
'Orange II, extra, IV, GG
* Lanafuchsine SG
*Azo Wool Blue SE
Excellently fast to light
* Naphtol Green B
shaded with
*Acid Yellow AT
* Orange GG
* Lanafuchsine SG
*Peri Wool Blue G
* Cyanole Fast Green G
For brigt greens
Acid Green extra cone ,
extra cone. B, 5 G
Fast Acid Green BN
* Cyanole Fast Green G
shaded with
*Acid Yellow AT
* China Yellow B
Naphtol Yellow S
*Tetra Cyanole V
or combinations of
Solid Green crystals O
Brilliant Green crystals
and extra
Thioflavine T
For very light, clear yellow-greens
combinations of
Thiotlavine T l dyed in a soap bath
Victoria Blue B j f "'^ subsequently
'stoved^seepageo4).
The dyestuflfs marked with an asterisk ('
^Method
I,
page 4.
Method
XIII,
age 14.
Method
III,
page 6.
a) Ofgood fastness to washing and
millingnexttowool and cotton:
Combinations of
Brilliant Milling Green B
♦Milling Yellow O, OO
*Wool Red B, BG
Formyl Blue B
*Tetra Cyanole A
Of even better fastness to
milling:
Combinations of
Brilliant Milling GreenBj
* Anthracene Yellow BN I Method
Milling Red G ^^f '^^
Formyl Blue B )
For deeper shades:
Combinations of
* Diamine Green G
*DiamineFastYcllow FF
Diamine Catechine G
* Diamine Brown M
♦Diaminoeene extra
Meth XII,
page 13,
and after-
treatment
with
chromium
fluoride.
b) Ofgood fastness t o washing
and milling next to wool:
* Diamine Green G, B,CL ,
* Diamine Dark Green N
* Diamine Yellow CP
* Diamine Brown 3G
* Diamine Scarlet B /
If the demands for fastness are
less exacting, the following combinations
msLy also be used:
* Cyanole Fast
Green G
*Acid Yellow AT
*Tropaeoline O
* Orange GG
* Lanafuchsine SG
) yield dyeings of good fastness to light.
Method
XII,
page 13.
Method
I,
page 4.
on Slubbing and Wool Varn.
Exceedingly fast to milling
and light
Special properties of fastness
Dyestuffs fast to steaming:
Combinations of
The dyestuffs mentioned are excellently
Anthracene Chrome Blue
fast to steaming, except the following :
G, BB, F
1^
Naphtol Green B
Anthracene Blue Black C
-a 2-
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Brilliant Milling Green B
^ dr
Diamine Green G, B
(for brightening)
^<!
Diaminogene extra
Anthracene Yellow BN
3 j^
Diamine Catechine G
Anthracene Chrome Brown
^o
Thioflavine T, Victoria Blue B,
SWN, DW, D
' .^
which are altered a little by severe
steaming.
Anthracene Chrome Red A
Dyestuffs fast to carbonising:
or of
The dyestuffs mentioned, with the ex-
Anthracene Chrome Blue ^
Peri Wool Blue G [ception of
G, BB
Thioflavine T, Victoria Blue B.
Anthracene Blue Black C
Good neutralising after carbonising is
Brilliant Milling Green B
(for brightening)
^ %
necessary in the case of
V CD
Tropaeoline 00, Orange IV.
Anthracene Yellow C, BN
Zl
Dyestuffs fast to stoving:
Anthracene Chrome Brown
The dyestuffs mentioned, excepting :
DWN
Acid Green, all brands
Anthracene Acid Brown G,
Fast Acid Green BN
N, B
r]^
Peri Wool Blue G, Wool RedB,BG
Anthracene Chrome Black
Alphanol Blue BR extra
F, 5B, P extra, PFB extra
Diaminogene extra
(for saddening of one-bath dj'eings)"^
Diamine Scarlet B
or again of
Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Chromate Green
Anthracene Acid Brown G
B
Anthracene Chromate Brown 3G
Alphanol Blue BR extra
o
Solid Green, Brilliant Green.
Anthracene Blue Black C
The following are fairly fast to stoving
and sufficiently good in this respect for
Brilliant Milling Green B
most requirements :
(for brightening)
Ti
Naphtol Green B, Milling Red G
Anthracene Yellow BN, C
Tropaeoline OO, 0, Orange IV
Anthrace Chromate Brown
Diamine Catechine G
3G, EB
to
Diamine Brown 3 G
Anthracene Yellow C
Anthracene Chrome Brown
SWN, DWN
Anthracene Chromate Brown EB.
4e II
Dyestuffs for Black
Cheapest and simplest method
of production
(Direct ftcid Blacks fast to light)
Fast to LUQshing, milling and
light
B, BD
For bluish blacks:
Naphtylamine Black
S, ES8B, ES5K, ES3B,
TBS, 4BS, SGG
Naphtylamine Blue Black 5 B
Xaphtol Black 6B, 3B
Naphtylamine Black I Method III,
4 B, 6 B i page 6.
For covered shades of black:
Naphtylamine Black ^ g
ESN, ESS, T TJ, TN,
SS2B. SS3B
Naphtylamine Blue Black
Naphtol Black
2B, B, SG, M
Naphtylamine Black ) Method III,
X2B, X3B, GO/ page 6.
\Vith particularly good level-
ling: properties:
For blue-black : i j.
Azo Merino Black -o q
8B, 6B, 6BE « f
For jet black : *■ ^
Azo Merino Black B, BE I -^
Suitable shading dyestuffs:
For verj' bluish blacks:
Acid Violet 6BS
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Tetra Cyanole V
CN^anole Green B, 6G
Acid Green extra cone.
For jet blacks:
Indian Yellow FF
Tropaeoline 00
Acid Yellow AT
Orange II, extra.
a) Of good fastness to washing
and milling next to wool
and cotton:
Anthracene Acid Black I Method
DSST, S\V, LW (IX, p. 10
The following level particularly well:
Anthracene Acid Black | Method
SR, SRG, SA, SBB/VIII, p.9.
Naphtyl Blue Black | Method IV,
FB, FBB J page 7.
further:
Alphanol Black BG, R| Method
Anthracite Black B, RjHI, p. t\
b) Of good fastness to washing
and milling next to wool:
Naphtyl Blue Black Nj ^j^^hod
Naphtylamine Black i IV,
NBB, RNB, R^ Page 7.
On knitting yarns etc. which are
notdecatised the before-mentioned Acid
Blacks may be dyed without sulphate
of copper. Sulphate of copper however
increases the weight of the wool by about
2"'o and enhances the fastness to wash-
ing.
Thefcllowingare also used very
largely for knitting and hosiery
Naphtylamine Black ^Method III,
4B,6B, X2B, X3Bj page 6.
For specially cheap blacks:
Naphtyl Blue Black | dyed with
-NT copperas, sul-
I phate of
Naphtylamine Black i copper, oxa-
NBB, RNB lie acid
with logwood, fustic (P^^^ ^^)
Suitable dyestuffs for shading:
Those given in the first column of i
the next page.
on Slubbing and Wool Yarn.
Exceedingly fast to milling
and light
Special properties of fastness
Anthracene Chrome Black
PFB extra, PFBB extra,
PF extra, PFR extia,
P extra, PPN extra, PR extra,
5B, F, FE, FR
Anthracene Acid Black
DSN, DSF, DSFB, DNG
The following resist thepottin;
process best:
Anthracene Chrome Black
P extra, PPN extra, PF extra,
PFB extra, PR extra, 5B.
For goods which are cross-
dyed subsequently:
Anthracene Chrome Black P extra,
PF, extra, PFB extra, F
Anthracene Acid Black
DSN, DSF
In order to obtain good fastness
to acids, the dyeings intended for this
purpose should be chromed somewhat
more than usual, viz.
for 4°/o dyestuff with P/g'/o bichrome
„ 5"/o „ „ 2 o/o
,, 6% ,, ,,- 2V2"/o
Suitable d y estu f f s f or sh ading :
For very bluish blacks:
Formyl Violet S4B— lOB
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Formyl Blue B
Brilliant Milling Green B
and for Anthracene Colours:
Anthracene Chrome
Blue FR, F, BB,
B
Anthracene Chrome
Violet B
For jet black :
Anthracene Yellow C, BN
Anthracene Acid Brown G
for dyeings of
particularly
good fastness
to light.
Dyestuffs fast to ste aming:
The dyestuffs mentioned are excel-
lently fast to steaming, except the
following:
Napthvlamine Black 4B, dved without
6B, X2B, X.SB, OO j addition of
Naphtyl Blue Black, I sulphate of
all brands j copper, or
Kaphtylamine Black milled alka-
RNB, NBB, R^ line.
Alphanol Black BG, R
Anthracite Black B R,
Anthracene Acid Black LW, DSX,
DSF, DSFB
and the Logwood combination referred
to before.
The dyeings are altered to some ex-
tent by severe steaming, but resist normal
steaming perfectly well.
Dyestuffs fast to carbonising :
The products mentioned , with the
exception of
Naphtyl Blue Black, , dyed with the
all brands | addition of
Naphtvlamine Black [ sulphate of
' NBB, RNB, R ' copper
Anthracene Acid Black SW, LW
and the Logwood combination referred to.
A thorough neutralisation after car-
bonising is necessary in the case of
Azo Merino Black, Tropaeoline OO.
Dyestuffs fast to stovin gj
The products mentioned, with the
exception of
Naphtylaraine Black 4B, fiB, X2B,
X3B, OO, NBB, RNB, Rj
Naphtyl Blue B ack, all brands
Alphanol Black BG, R
Anthracene Acid Black SW, LW
Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Acid Brown G
Acid Green extra cone,
Formyl Violet 8B, 10 B
and the Logwood combination refer-
red to.
The following are as a rule found
sufficiently fast to stoving :
Naphtvlamine Black ES8B, ES5B,
ES8B, ESS, ESN
Naphtvlamine Blue Black B, BD
Anthracene Acid Black DSN, DSF,
DSST, DSFB, SA
AnthraceneYellow C, Tropaeoline 00,0
Formvl Yio et 6B.
4*e II
Chloring of Wool; Production of Silk-Wool.
By treating wool with solutions of chloride of lime and
dilute acid, the fibre attains a higher degree of brillianc}' and
is less liable to shrink or felt. At the same time its affinity for
most dyestuffs is considerably enhanced, which property may be
taken advantage of in producing two-coloured effects on all-
woollen piece-goods, according to our patented process described
in British Patent No. 1447298.
By a subsequent soaping a very soft handle is imparted to
the chlored and dyed wool, and by soaping and subsequently
souring off the wool assumes a scroop similar to that of silk.
Both these methods are frequently applied for the production
of so-called "silk-wool", particularly for knitting and hosiery yarns.
The chlorination is carried out in the following manner :
The well wetted or, if necessary, scoured yarn is .
1. treated for V4 hour in a cold bath containing 1^1 2
gallons hydrochloric acid of 35" Tw, per 100 gallons
liquor ; the yarns are then allowed to drain well or
are whizzed lightly and entered without rinsing into
2. a cold bath* prepared with 15 — 20°/o chloride of
lime of the weight of the goods and titrating about
0,3 — 0,8 deg. Tw. ; in this liquor the goods are
turned frequently for ^/a hour, and are then
3. taken again into the first hydrochloric acid bath (1),
where they are treated for about 20 minutes; finally
they are rinsed very thoroughly, whereupon they are
ready for dyeing.
Should the yellow tone of the wool caused by the chloring
process be found objectionable, the yarn is treated finally for
* Preparation of the Chloride of Lime solution : Dry chloride of lime
containing 35° of chloride is stirred to a uniform paste with five times its
weitrht of cold water; fifteen times the weight of water is then added, the
whole being allowed to settle and the clear solution used.
Dj-eing of Woollen and Worsted Yai
15 to 20 minutes in a lukewarm bath containing about 1 lb of
bisulphite of soda per 10 gallons liquor and then rinsed.
When dyeing it must be remembered that the dyestuffs are
much more readily absorbed by chlorinated than by unchlorinated
wool. It is therefore advisable to start dyeing without any acid,
and to add some acid subsequently, if necessary, for exhausting
the bath. It is also recommended to enter the yarn at a somewhat
lower temperature than usual.
After dyeing, the yarn is rinsed thoroughly, hydroextracted,
and then either soaped and soured off, or soaped only.
Producing a scroopy, silk -like feel:
Treat the chlorinated yarn for 10 minutes in a cold soap
bath containing 8 oz olive-oil soap per 10 gallons liquor, sour
off lightly with hydrochloric or sulphuric acid, whizz, and dry. r
Producing a very soft handle:
Prepare a concentrated cold bath with
^/4— 1 lb olive-oil soap )
1 1^,_3 oz olive-oil P^'' ,;^^/,^"°°'
1 oz ammonia of 0,913 spec. grav. |
after chlorinating as described on page 52, treat the dyed and
hydroextracted yarn for 10 — 15 minutes in this bath, whizz, and dry.
Stoved or "Sulphured" Colours on Wool Yarn.
In order to produce these colours, the yarns are dyed in
either a soap or an acid bath, and then stoved.
The sulphured colours are chiefly in demand for Berlin
and fancy wools, the favourite shades being cream , greenish
yellow to gold, orange, maize, salmon, chamois, pink. Imperial
red, lilac, azure, blue and yellowish green (parrot green).
— 53 —
Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted Yams.
Dyeing pale shades :
Pale shades are always dyed in a soap bath, the following
dyestufFs fast to stoving being used :
For cream, light sulphur yellow, maize, salmon and
chamois:
Combinations of
Thioflavine T
Rosazeine B, 13
Irisamine G;
for pale greenish yellows and yellowish greens:
Combinations of
Thioflavine T
Victoria Blue B ;
for light pink:
Rosazeine B, 13
Irisamine G
Rose Bengale extra N (for very bluish shades);
for lilac:
for azure:
for white:
Methyl Violet 3B — 6B
Crystal Violet lOB;
Victoria Blue B:
Victoria Blue B (for milk white)
Methyl Violet 3B-6B ) ,^^ - ^.^,
Crystal Violet lOB |
Prepare a soap bath with 3 — 8 oz curd soap or olive-oil soap
per 10 gallons, according to the hardness of the water; add
the dyestuff solution, stir well, enter the yarn at 40 — 450 C
(105—115 deg. F.) and work for '/4 to V2 bour. Then lift the
yarn, hvdroextract evenly but not too severely, leave overnight in
the sulphur stove, and finally dry in the open air in a shady place.
White is frequently stoved a second time for a few hours.
Dyeing full, brilliant shades.
Basic and Eosine Colours, as well as Acid Colours, are
used for producing such shades. The method of dyeing is the
usual one in a bath weakly acidulated with acetic acid or, in
the case of Acid Colours, with the addition of bisulphate of
soda, or of Glauber's salt and sulphuric acid.
Stoved or "Sulphured" Colours on Wool Yarn.
The following dyestuffs possessing very good fastness to
stoving come into consideration :
For shades ranging from sulphur yellow to orange:
Combinations of
Thioflavine T \
Rosazeine B, 13 [ Method XIII, page U,
Irisamine G J
or with Acid Colours
China Yellow B i
Naphtol Yellow S 1
» • J -sr 11 AT- I Method I, page 4 ;
Acid Yellow AT . f & >
Rosazeine B, 13 '
for greenish yellow to yellowish green:
Combinations of
Thioflavine T i ,t i. ^ vttt
New Methylene Blue N, NSS ^"J,\°t U
Victoria Blue B J ° ' .
or with Acid Colours : -^
China Yellow B | ^
Naphtol Yellow S
A J Tr 11 A T^ / Method I, page 4;
Acid i'^ellow Al . ±- » >
Tetra Cyanole SF ]
for medium and dark pinks:
In the first instance :
Rosazeine B, 13, Method III, page 6;
For less bright shades:
Erythrosine, ail brands s
Phloxine, all brands , Methode VII, page 8.
Rose Bengale extra N J
For exceedinglybrilliant, light reds(ImperialRed):
Rosazeine B, 13
Eosine, all brands
Erythrosine, all brands
shaded with
Orange extra
Brilliant Scarlet GG, G
Scarlet FR
f o r b 1 u e :
Alkaline Blue 6B — 3R, Method VI, page 8.
Victoria Blue B, Method XIII, page 14.
for greenish ) Cvanole FF I ^r .i. j t
Ki ,^o T-' . /- 1 OT- ^ Method I, page 4.
blues J Tetra Cyanole SB, extra j ^
— 55 -
Method II or III,
pages 5 and 6 ;
The Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted Yarns.
After dyeing, rinsing and whizzing, the yarns are stoved
overnight in the sulphur stove and then dried in the open air
in a shady place.
Note:
When dyeing in a soap bath, it is necessary that the
water used be as soft as possible in order to ensure the
best results; the use of condensed water is therefore
strongly advisable. Hard water must be softened before use.
The dyestufF solution is best filtered through a piece of
cotton cloth and added in measured off portions to the dyebath.
— 56
Dyeing Loose Wool, Woollen or Worsted
Yarns, Cops and Cheeses in Dyeing Machines.
The Dyeing of Loose Wool, Woollen or Worsted
Yarns, Cops and Cheeses in Dyeing Machines.
The chief advantage of dyeing loose wool and woollen
or worsted yarns in machines is that the goods retain their
original softness and are not in the least felted by the dyeing
process. The dyeing of wool in the form of cops or cheeses
is also gaining steadily in importance, for which purpose machines
are used into which the goods are evenly packed, but more
particularly machines in which they are dyed on perforated spindles.
In selecting a machine, an important point to be considered
is the material of which the machine is constructed. Iron machines
for instance are not to be recommended for wool dyeing; best
are machines made of wood or copper, with bronze, copper or
nickeline fittings, and spindles made of nickeline or nickel.
Special attention has to be paid to the water used for
dyeing being pure and soft. If however this is not available
in sufficient quantity, it is advisable to soften the water in a
suitable manner.
The softening of the water on a small scale is best
done in a special vat provided with a delivery cock fixed
4 to 8 inches above the bottom. In proportion to the hardness
of the water, 5—10 oz oxalate of ammonia per 100 gallons
are added ; the water is then stirred well, the precipitate allowed
to settle, and the clear water free from lime let ofT by the cock.
Correction of the water in the dyeing machine is not
advisable because the precipitated lime adheres to the goods
and these dust when subjected to further operations.
In order to prevent spotty dyeings, it is very important to
dissolve the dyestuff perfectly before dyeing. Boiling condensed
water is best used for dissolving, the solution being added to
the liquor through a fine sieve or a piece of cotton cloth.
59
The Dyeing of Wool in Machines.
The Dyeing of Loose Wool in Machines.
When dyeing loose wool in machines, care should be taken
that the wool is not packed too tightly ; those machines therefore
are best suited in which the wool is kept fixed by the weight of
loose wooden covers which may perhaps be slightly weighted down.
For dyeing loose wool in machines^ the same dyestnffs are
suitable which are used for the machine-dyeing of shibbing ;
thus the products emimerated on pages 40 to 51 are equally
suitable for the dyeing of loose wool in machiiies.
Our Anthracene Chrome and Anthracene Acid Colours in
particular are used for this purpose, answering fully the high
requirements for fastness made of wool dyeings generally, and
being distinguished by their easy solubility and good levelling
properties.
The best Blacks for this purpose are the Anthracene Chrome
Black brands of the "P"series. They yield dyeings answering
the highest demands in point of fastness, ai-e easily soluble,
level excellently and offer the great advantage of not frothing.
The Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted Yarns in Dyeing
Machines.
Yarn is either dyed in the same machines as used for loose
wool, or in automatic yarn-dyeing machines. In addition to the
economy in labour, steam and water, machine-dyeing offers the
considerable advantage that the yarns do not felt in the least.
Machine-dyeing has therefore been found especially well adapted
for knitting yarns, Berlin wool and woollen yarns, and for yarns
generally which are inclined to felt.
In charging the machines special care should be taken to
prevent the formation of channels during the dyeing, which may
easily cause uneven results.
The yarn is as a rule wetted out, or, if necessary, washed with
soda or ammonia and soap before it is dyed or placed into the
machine. Boiling is only necessary for yarns which are very
apt to curl. Yarns containing little or no grease may be
wetted out in the machine proper, or be cleaned with some
ammonia.
— 60 —
The Dyeing of Wool in Machines.
The same dyestuffs as enumerated on pages 35
to 51 for the dyeing of woollen or worsted yarns in
the vat and applied according to the instructions laid
down there come into consideration for the dyeing.
Besides the Chrome Colours^ the Diamine Colours are very
popular, by reason of their very simple method of application,
especially for the production of light compound shades, and for
yellows, reds and clarets fast to washing and milling.
P'or blacks fast to washing on knitting and hosiery yarns,
Xaphtylamine Black 4B, 6 B iix\d BBN axe chiefly used ; further,
Alphanol Black BG, B, Naphtyl Blue Black N and Naphty-
lamijte Black RAB and NBB, which are still faster to washing.
For the dyeing of yarns which in point of fastness to
washing, milling and potting, etc. are required to meet still
higher demands, the various Anthracene Chrome Black and
Anthracene Acid Black brands come into consideration.
The Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted Yarns in the Form
of Cops or Cheeses.
Generally speaking the dyestuffs recommended
on pages 35 to 51, applied according to the methods
mentioned there, come into consideration for the
dyeing of these materials both by the packing and
by the spindle system.
For the production of mode shades with Acid Colours,
Acid Yellow AT, Orange GG, Lanafuchsine SG and SB, Azo
Orseille BB, Cyanole Past Green G, Cyanole Green B and 5 G
and Cyanole Extra and FF are excellently suited, whereas for
producing bright dyeings (for effect threads) fast to milling, the
following products are used : Milling Yellow O, Milling Bed G,
Wool Bed B, Rosaze'ine B and /j, Formyl Violet all, brands,
Formyl Blue B, Brilliant Milling Blue B, Tetra Cyanole A
and Brilliant Milling Green B.
The Anthracene Colours answer the most exacting require-
ments with regard to fastness. They are chromed on cops
and cheeses usually in the same bath. Particularly Anthracene
Yellow BN, Anthracene Chrome Brown D and SWN, Anthra-
cene Acid Brozvn G, Anthracene Chrome Red A, Anthracene
Blue Black C, Anthracene Chrome Blue G, F, BB are very
well adapted for the purpose.
The Dyeing of Wool in Machines.
For Blacks on fancy yarns, Naphtylamhie Black S, £SX,
ES3B, A'aphtylamme Blue Black 5B and B are usually em-
ployed; for dyeings fast to washing, Alphanol Black R, BG
and N^aphtyl Blue Black N', while Anthracene Chrome Black F,
5 B andt he products of the ''P" series serve for dyeing milling goods.
If fastness to rubbing is of special importance, it is recom-
mended to after-chrome the Anthracene Colours in a fresh bath
with the addition of '/s — I'/s^/o concentrated hydrochloric acid.
When dyeing in packing machines, particular attention has
to be paid to the goods being packed evenly and the interstices
being well filled, for which latter purpose loose cotton is most-
ly used.
Dyeing' of Woollen and Worsted Pieee-Goods.
The Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted
Piece-Goods.
Scoztrmg- of U^ool Fabrics. Before dyeing, the goods should
be very carefully wetted out in hot water. Goods which are not
quite clean are wetted by adding to the water 1 — 2*^/o ammonia
of the weight of the material, and removing this again by rinsing
thoroughly. Goods which have a tendency to produce skittery
effects, or which are apt to yield uneven two-coloured shades,
owing to different qualities of wool being used for the manufacture
of the piece, are to advantage boiled in water for 1 — P/2 hours
previous to dyeing.
Carbonising of Woollen Goods. Piece-goods are in most
cases carbonised just before the dyeing, sometimes also previous
to the milling. The carbonising is as a rule done similarly
as described on page 17 for loose wool, with sulphuric
acid of 6 — 9 deg. Tw. ; in the case of colours which are sensitive
to acids and sometimes even for pale, delicate shades, aluminium-
choride solutions of 9—12 deg. Tw., or less frequently magnesium
chloride solutions of 15 deg. Tw., are used.
The goods are impregnated with the acid etc. in a wooden
vat provided with a slowly running winch, for 1 — 2 hoitrs, according
to the thickness of the material, or for a shorter time in the
washing machine ; they are then evenly whizzed in a hydroex tractor
which has been well lead-lined or provided with an acid-proof coating,
and hereafter carbonised without unnecessary delay. In case it should
be impossible to carbonise the pieces at once, it is well to cover
them with a cloth soaked in the carbonising liquor in order to
protect them from the effect of direct sunlight and air, because
dried up patches do not dye so deep as the rest of the material.
As particularly the folds or lists in plaited goods have a
tendency to dry up, such faults in carbonising as a rule show up
in the form of streaks rvanning crossways or lengthways in the
material.
The pieces are usually carbonised in stoves specially built
of brick-work, through which the goods are run horizontally over
a number of wooden guiding rollers. These stoves are heated
either by heating apparatus fixed at the bottom of the interior,
or with hot air. They contain two chambers ; in the first one,
which should be provided with an outlet for the moist air and
— 65 — 5e II
The D)eing of Woollen and Worsted Piece-Goods.
acid vapours, the pieces are dried at moderate heat, and in
the second they are carbonised at 90— 110^ C. (195 — 230
deg. F.) or considerably hotter if magnesium chloride be
used. Care should be taken that no condensation of water
takes place during the drying and carbonising, because drops of
water falling on to the goods weaken the same materially, and
are apt to cause spots on dyeing. Should a special carbonising
stove not be available, the goods are sometimes simply hung
up in diying rooms which are well ventilated during the drying
process, and are* heated strongly, with the ventilating valve
closed, for the carbonising proper ; another method is to pass
the goods several times over drying cylinders which are tinned
or, better still, covered with woollen cloth ; it is difficult however
to make such drying cylinders hot enough to be effective.
If goods containing cotton selvedges are to be carbonised,
such selvedges, before entering tlie carbonising stove, are given
a coating of silicate of soda of 15*^ Tw,, or of a soda solution
thickened with chalk.
After the carbonising, the goods are nm for a little while
in a dry washing or milling machine in order to grind down the
charred buns and cotton particles and thus remove them from
the goods.
The next process is to neittralise the carbonised goods.
After a short rinsing in . water they are usualh' neutralised
with soda or ammonia, and then thoroughly rinsed in water.
Pieces which are to be dyed with easily levelling colours or
which have been dyed previously, are frequently simply well
rinsed in water in the washing machine. In order to remove
the fatty handle of goods carbonised with aluminium chloride or
magnesium chloride they are first of all washed with a little
sulphuric or hydiochloric acid, and then thoroughly washed with
fuller's earth with the addition of some soda.
Bleaching of Wool Piece-goods. The goods are bleached
in the same manner as described on page 36 for woollen yarn,
special care being paid to the pieces being kept well immersed
in the liquor.
Dyeing of Jfool Pieces. The goods are generally dyed on
a winch driven by machineiy% and almost exclusively in the rope-
form. In case the selvedges roll up, the goods are sewn together
in such a manner as to form a sort of hose, which prevents the
formation of light selvedges or lists. It is also advisable to dye
— 66 —
The Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted Piece-Goods.
^\•()^steds and piece-goods, the surface of which might be impaired
by coming into contact with the winch, in hose-form with the
wrong side up.
According to the requirements made of the goods, the
following classes of colours may be used :
1) Acid Colours,
2) Anthracene Colours,
3) Diamine Colours,
4) Eosine- and some Basic Colours.
Owing to their simple method of application and excellent
levelling properties, the Acid Colours are the most important for
the dyeing of piece-goods. They are of the greatest value for
dyeing ladies' dress goods of all kinds, plushes, curtain goods,
facings and billiard cloths, and are also most extensively employed
for gentlemen's suitings. For producing dyeings fast to washing
on flannels, such Acid Colours as Formyl Violet, Bi'illiant Milling
Blue, Formyl Blue, Tetra Cyanole A, Alkaline Bhie, Brilliant
Milling Green, Milling Yellow, Milling Red, Wool Red and
Rosazeine B and 13 are chiefly used, these colours being distin-
guished by their excellent fastness to washing.
With regard to fastness to rubbing, steaming, alkalies,
perspiration and hot pressing, the Acid Colours in general satisfy
normal demands. In the case of very high lequirements with
respect to fastness to light, alkalies and perspiration, or if the
goods are to be subjected to a milling process after dyeing, our
Anthracene Colours (Chrome Colours) are employed. They
are especially important for better-class gentlemen's suitings,
uniform and livery cloths.
The Diamine Colours are extensively used for producing
colours fast to washing on flannel and hosiery goods.
The Eosine and Basic Colours sei-ve for dyeing bright,
cheap pink and red shades on flannel and low-class blanket
materials.
Dark, coloured shoddy goods are principally used for deep
shades and blacks. If they are to be dyed to bright, pale shades,
they must be stripped previously, as described in the chapter
on Shoddy.
— 67 — 5*e
Dyestuffs for
Greys, tAode Shades and
Cheapest method of production
Of better fastness to light
Combinations of
Combinations of
*Xaphtol Yellow S
*Acid Yellow AT 1
Indian Yellow FF
Tropaeoline 00,
Orange II, extra
*Orange GG
*Azo Orseille BB
Method
Orange extra, II, IV
Method
(for pale shades)
I,
*Azo Orseille BB
I,
*Lanafuchsine SB, SG
*Xaphtol Red C
page 4.
(for pale shades)
*Lanafuchsine SB, SG
page 4.
(onlj- for browns)
Cyanole Green B, 6G
*Indigo Blue N
*Tetra Cyanole V
For prune shades:
Shades still faster to light, alkalies
and perspiration are obtained with
Combinations of
*Acid Yellow AT
Orange II, extra "j
*Azo Wool Yiolei 7R 1 Method
^Orange GG ^^'f""^
*Lanafuchsine SG page 4.
*Xaphtol Red C 1 l'^ ^
^Indigo Blue X ^
* Cyanole Fast Green G
Combinations of the last named
dyestuffs are also very well adapted for
dyeing gentlemen's suitings containing
cotton effect threads.
For prune shades
Combinations of
*Orange 1 ^r.thod
*Azo Wool Violet 7R I,
*Tetra Cyanole V J P^S^ "l-
The dycstuff
narked with an asterisk (*) do not stain
For dyeing woollen
and worsted pieces containing
For
ladies' materials:
Acid Yellow AT Lanafuchsine
5G 1 . .-,,-,
Xaphtol Yellow S Azo Wool Bl
„^ /- 1 Method see under " \\ ool
"^ ^ j and Silk".
Orange GG Cyanole extra
For particulr
rs of fastness to steaming, carbonising
BroLuns on Woollen and Worsted Piece-Qoods.
Of uery good fastness to
Exceedingly fast to light and
Luashing
u;Qshing
Combinations of
Combinations of
*Anthracene Yellow BN •
<j
*Millino Yellow 0,-00
Anthracene Acid Brown G
S
♦Milling Red G
Anthracene Chrome Brown
o
Wool Red B
Method
III
D, DW, *SWN
ki
^Brilliant Milling Green B
page 6.
^Anthracene Chrome Red A
" g
*Formyl A^iolet S 4 B
Anthracene Blue Black C
(for prune shades)
♦Anthracene Chrome Blue
H
or
F, R
o
Anthracene Chrome Blue
3
Diamine Yellow CP
Diamine Brown M, R
G, BB
*AnthraceneChromeVioletB j
^
Oxy Diamine Brown G
For brown and prune, combin-
Diamine Catechine G
Method
ations of
Diamine Scarlet B, 3B
XII,
Anthracene Chrome Brown
^
Diamine Rose BD
page 13.
DWN
S-
Diaminogene extra
Anthracene Acid Brown G,
t
Oxy Diamine Violet B
N, B, V
><
(for prune shades)
'Anthracene Yellow BN
O
♦Anthracene Chrome Red A
yi
* Anthracene Chrome BlueF,R
n
♦Anthracene Chrome Blue
cr"
G, BB
^
♦Anthracene Chrome
o
Violet B
3
a.
'Anthracene Chromate
f
Brown EB, 3G
Alphanol Blue BR extra
1 o*
*Anthracene Yellow BN
O-"
Anthracene Blue Black C
'•^id
Wool Red B J
effect threads of cotton, China-gras
s or artificial silk.
white silk shots, the following
dyestuffs may be used:
For gentlemen's sl
i t i n g s :
Anthracene Yellow BN
t
1
Anthracene Chrome Violet
B . for method see page 91.
Anthracene Chrome Blue I
and stoving of the above-mentioned d^'Cb
tuffs see pages 80 to 82.
— 69
Dyestuffs for Vellou;, Orange and Pink
Cheapest method of production [ Of better fastness to light
Yellow.
For bright yellows :
*Naphtol Yellow I ) Method I,
*China Yellow B ( page 4.
For deep yellows:
Indian Yellow 1 Method I,
Indian Yellow G j page 4.
Orange.
Orange II, extra 1 Method I,
Orange R j page 4.
For \- e r y b r i ght oranges :
Combinations of
*Xaphtol Yellow S \ Method I,
*Rosazeine B, 13 J page 4.
Pink.
Diamond :Magenta la \ \Iethod
:Magenta yellow shade j p^^^i'^^.
For bright pinks
*Eosine SG, GGF, L, BN
*Eosine Scarlet B
*Erythrosine yellow
shade, D, B, extra N
*Phloxine S
*Rose Bengale extra X ,
:Method
VII,
page 8.
Yellow.
For bright yellows:
*Acid Yellow AT ) :Method I,
*Fast Yellow S j page 4.
For deep yellows:
Indian Yellow FF, R \
Metanil Yellow J ^lethoc
I,
page 4.
Tropaeoline O, OO, G
Orange IV
Orange.
*Orange GG ] :siethod I
Orange EN, EXZ | page 4.
For ver}- bright oranges:
Combinations of
*Acid Yellow AT
*Fast YelloM' S
*Rosazeine B, 13
Pink.
Method I,
page 4.
*Rosazeine B, 13
Method III or I, page 4 or (
*Lanafuchsine SG ] :Method I,
*Lanafuchsine SB page 4.
The dyestuffs marked with an asterisk (*) do not stain
(Rosazeine is satisfactory in this
For dyeing woollen and worsted pieces with
Xaphtol Yellow S Fast Yellow S | Method see under "Wool
Acid Yellow AT Orange GG J and Silk".
For particulars of fastness to steaming, carbonising and stoving of the above-
Shades on Woollen and Worsted Piece-Qoods.
Of uery good fastness to
LUQshing
Exceedingly fast to light and
washing
Yellow.
^Milling Yellow O, OO, Method III,
or page 6.
Thioflavine S ]
Oxy Diamine Yellow TZ|^^^J^j°'i
Diamine Fast Yellow FF Lage i3.
Diamine Yellow CP J
Orange.
Combinations of
^Milling Yellow O, 00) Method III,
♦Milling Red G j P'-^g^ ^■
For very bright oranges:
'Milling Yellow O, OOl Method III,
*Rosazeine B, 13 J page 6.
Of still better fastness to washing:
Oxy Diamine Orange G, R,
Diamine Orange B, F I ^
or combinations of I rS ?■
Diamine Yellow CP
Diamine Scarlet B
*Rosazeine B, 13
(for brightening) '
Pink.
*Rosazeine B, 13, Method III, p. 6.
*Eosine Colours, (see column i)
Method VII, page 8.
Of still better fastness to washing:
Diamine Rose BD, GD|
Diamine Scarlet B, 3bI ^xn?*^
Rosazeine B, 13
(for brightening)
page 13.
Yellow.
^Milling Yellow O, 00
Method III, page 6.
*Anthracene Yellow BN^ Metbod^
Anthracene Yellow C | page'^i',)'
Anthracene Yellow R ' or' 11.
Milling Yellow O and 00 amongst
others are used frequently for dyeing
yellow cloth for uniform facings and
bunting (flags).
For greenish yellow:
Anthracene Yellow GG, after-
treated with chromium fluoride (Method
IX), or on chromed wool, (Method X),
pages 10 and 11.
Orange.
Combinations of
*Anthracene Yellow BN'
Anthracene Yellow C
Anthracene Yellow R
Diamine Fast Red F ,
further :
^Milling Yellow O, 00( Method
Diamine Scarlet B jXII, p. 12.
The combination of Milling Yellow
and Diamine Scarlet is largely used for
the dyeing of orange cloth for facings
for military and postal uniforms.
Method
IX or X,
*pages 10
and 11 ;
ass or artificial silk.
effect threads of cotton, China-
respect for pale shades only).
with white silk shots, the following may be used:
Brilliant Scarlet 4R, 6R Eosine 3G, BN ] Method see under
Lanafuchsine SG, SB Eosine Scarlet B ( "Wool and Silk",
mentioned dyestuffs see pages 80 to 82.
Dyestuffs for Red, Claret and Violet
*Brilliant Scarlet, all brands
^Crystal Scarlet 6R
♦Scarlet FK, F2R, F3R
^Brilliant Cochineal RR, 4R
Scarlet EC, Roccelline
*Naphtol Red EB, C
*Amaranth, *Azo Red A
*Lanafuchsine SB, SGI
*Azo Orseille BB '
*Acid Magenta J
Combinations of
*Rosazeine B, 13
Orange extra, R
*Naphtol Yellow S [
for very fier)- reds J
Red and Claret.
Brilliant Croceine R
Brilliant Croceine B
Brilliant Croceine INE
Brilliant Croceine 2B
Brilliant Croceine 3B Method
Brilliant Croceine 5B / II,
♦Brilliant Croceine 6B P'^sc 5;
'Brilliant Croceine 1 B
♦Brilliant Croceine 9B
Croceine AZ
*Azo Rubin e A
for brighter clarets:
♦Lanafuchsine 6B
^Method I, page 4
Method
page 4.
Method I,
page 4.
Violet.
Acid Violet *6BS, \ Method I,
6BC, *4RS J page 4.
Of excellent fastness to alkalies:
*Formvl Violet S4B, [ Methods
S5B,'6B, 8B, lOBj "-^^ "^'
' ' ' ' p. and 6
Suitable shad
*Azo Wool Violet 7R, 4R
^Method I, page 4.
For violet shades exceedingly fast to
light:
♦Lanacyl Violet B,
Method III, page 6.
- o d u c t s :
*Cyanole extra, FF
*Tetra Cyanole extra, V
*Cyanole Fast Green G
"Orange GG
Orange II, extra
*Acid Yellow AT
The dyestuffs marked with an asterisk (*) do not stain effect
For dyeing woollen and worsted pieces with
Crystal Scarlet 6R
Brilliant Scarlet 4R, 6R
Scarlet FR, F3R
Brilliant Cochineal 2R
Lanafuchsine SG, SB, 6B
Xaphtol Red C
Amaranth
Acid Magenta (for pale shades).
For particulars of fastness to steaming, carbonising, and stovinf
Shades on Woollen and Worsted Piece-Qoods.
Of uery good fastness to
Exceedingly fast to light and
luashing
Luashing
Red and
Claret.
*MillincT Red G, FR
Diamine Fast Red F, chromed, ^ g
Wool Red B, BG
shaded if necessary with
v. 1
shaded if necessar)- with
Method
HI,
page 6.
* Milling Yellow 0, 00
*Rosazeine B, 13
*Anthracene Yellow BN
^x
*Formyl Violet S4B
Wool Red B
t^
*Millin<^ Yellow O
or combinations of
further :
Diamine Fast Red F
Diamine Scarlet B, 3B
^
^Anthracene ChromeViolet B
►3 V
Diamine Purpurine B, SB, 6B
g.
*Anthracene Chrome Blue
1 f
Diamine Bordeaux S, B
s.
FR, F, R
'Z^
Diamine Brilliant Bordeaux R
M
*Formyl Violet S4B
shaded if necessary with
^
^for brightening)
Oxy Diamine Violet B
"?
Diamine Yellow CP
CO
For dull Clarets:
The following are also used frequently
^Anthracene Chrome Red A ^|
shaded if necessary with ^ g*
for dyenig flannels fastto vvashing:
^Scarlet EC, FR, ]
F2R, F3R ^^'^^\ II'
^Crystal Scarlet 6R J ^'"^'^ '
* Anthracene Chrome "==»
Violet bJ pa
Vio
let.
*Formyl Violet,
Method
"Anthracene Chrome Violet B, ,^ ^
all brands
III,
shaded if necessary with
" n
Alkaline Violet CA, C
for Formyl
Violet also
*Anthracene Chrome Blue
shaded if necessary with
Method II,
R, F
*Brilliant Milliner Blue
pages 5
for brightening :
■-o<
*Formyl Blue B [BJ
and 6.
*Formyl Violet S4B
??x^
^Brilliant Milling Blue B ^^°
threads of cotton, China-grass or ?
rtificial silk.
white silk shots, the folio
wing may be used :
Azo Wool Violet 7R
Acid Yellow AT
Azo Wool Blue C
Met
aod see under '"Wool and Silk".
Cyanole FF
(for bright pale shades) .
of the above-mentioned dyestuffs see pag
es SO to 82.
Dyestuffs for Blue Shades
Cheapest method of production Of better fastness to light
v.f
For bright blues:
Alkaline Blue, all brands i Method
shaded with I VI,
Alkaline Violet C, CA | P^S^ 8.
For navy and dark blues:
*Lanacyl Navy Blue BB, B^ "^
*Lanacyl Blue BB, R
*Azo Merino Blue 3 B, G
*Azo Merino Dark Blue R
Naphtol Blue G, R
Of excelle nt fastness to light:
*Peri Wool Blue B, BG, G
^lethod II, page 5.
*Lanacyl Violet
Method III, page 6,
For dark blues very fast to al-
kalies andperspiration on cloth
for riding breeches, liveries etc.
Xaphtyl Blue Black N i
shaded with | Method
Lanacyl Violet B [ page' 7.
Tetra Cyanole V, A j
For very cheap navj- and dark
blues, so-railed "ttrilli a n t B 1 u e s" :
*Naphtol Black 3B, 6B
*Naphtylamine Blue Black
5B, B, BD
*Naphtvlamine Black
ES8B, ES5B, ES3B,
shaded with
=^Formyl Violet S4B— lOB
=^Brilliant Milling Blue B ,
The dyestuffs marked with an asterisk (*) do not stain effect thread-
For dyeing woollen and worsted pieces with
For ladies' dress goods:
For bright blues:
=^Cyanole FF, extra, AB
*Tetra Cyanole V, SF, extra
^Indigo Blue N, SGN \
*Acid Violet 6BS J
For navj- and dark blues:
*Azo Wool Blue SE, SER ^
*Azo Navy Blue B, 3B
*Acid Navy Blue A
*Brilliant Naphtol Blue 48, B,
shaded with R
*Azo Wool Violet 4 B, 7 R
*Acid Violet 6BS
*Orange GG
* Cyanole Green B, 6 G
or saddened w^ith
*Azo Merino Black 8B, 6B
further
Formyl Violet S4B— lOB)
Water Blue B, R, RB
Wool Blue TB
Solid Blue R, 3 B
Lanacyl Navy Blue B, BB
Lanacyl Blue R
Lanacyl Violet B
in combination with logwood
Cyanole FF, extra Azo Wool Violet 7R
I for light and medium blues) Lanafuchsine 6 B
Azo Wool Blue C Orange GG
For particulars of fastness to steaming, carbonising and stoving
— 74 —
I for Method see
I under
I -'Wool and Silk"
on Woollen and Worsted Piece-Qoods.
Of uery good fastness to
washing
Exceedingly fast to light and
washing
Fiir briglit blues:
Alkaline Blue, all brands l Method
shaded with ' VI,
Alkaline Violet CA, C J P'-^g^ S.
*Brilliant Milling Blue B
*Formyl Blue B
*Thiocaimine R
*Tetra Cyanole A
shaded with
*Formyl Violet S4B
•=BrilliantMillingGreen B
The Alkaline Blue dyeings must be
soured off after the alkaline washing.
For navy and dark blues:
Combinations of
*Brilliant Milling Green B
*Brilliant Milling Blue B
Wool Red B, *Orange GG
*Formyl Violet S4B
(for brightening)
or, of still better fastness to washing:
*Anthracene Acid Black SBB \ ^
Anthracene Chrome Black 5 B p 2.
^Formyl Violet S4B— lOB }'^ o
*Brilliant Milling Blue B g Z^
*Formyl Blue B ' ' 1^^
For most purposes the following
prove satisfactor}^ :
Combinations of
*Cyanoie Fast Green G
*Lanafuchsine 6B
*Orange GG
*Formyl Violet S4B
(for brightening)
of cotton, China-grass or artifici
white silk shots, the following
re o
Anthracene Chrome Blue B W extra
*RRW extra, Method X, page 11.
Anthracene ChromeBlue | weth. x or
*F, G, BB, *B, *R I ^:';:;r
*xVnthracene Chrome Blue FR
*Anthr. Acid Blue BBN, BB, 3 B
Methods IX or X, pages 10 & 11.
Anthracene Acid Blue RT
Method IX, page 10.
*A]phanol Blue BR extra
Method V, page 8.
For verj' cheap blues:
*Azo Chrome Blue T, TB,
Method yill, page 9.
For specially bright blues:
Anthracene Chrome Blue FD
Anthracene Acid Blue *GG, RR,
^Method X, page 11.
Suitable shading products:
*Brilliant Milling Blue B
*Formyl Blue B
*Tetra Cyanole A
*Formyl Violet S 4 B - 1 B
*Brilliant Milling Green B
Anthracene Acid Black DSFj ^l
(for d3'eings on chromed goods E^ <
Anthracene Acid Black ^c
SBB, *SR E-^
(for one-bath dyeings)) '^ ^
For blues fast to potting
principall}' :
Anthracene"Chrome) Methods x or vn
Blue*F,*FR, G, BBJ '^IZclZ;:
al silk.
may be used:
For gentlemen's suitings
Dark Blue WS
Anthracene Chrome Blue F] See
JJarlv t^lue vvb |» i ^^^^^^ AntHracene cnrome i^iue r | ^t^«
Lanacyl Blue BB, R I? 1 see° Anthracene Chrome Violet B| Pg|^
Lanacyl Violet B
the above-mentioned dyestuffs see pages 80 to 8"2.
— 75 -
Dyestuffs for Green and Oliue Shades
Cheapest method of production
Of better fastness to light
*Acid Green extra cone.
Combinations of
*Cyano1e Green B, 6G 1 ^
*Fast Acid Green B, BN
*Acid Yellow AT, Indian Yellow FF
2.
•Indigo Blue N
g
Orange IV, II. extra, R
?
a>
*Lanafuchsine SG
&•
in combination with
o
*Azo ^Vool Blue SE
j"*
*Naphtol Yellow S
P'
(for saddening)
^
Indian Yellow FF
" -
Naphtol Dark Green G ] Method
shaded with the before [ I^'
Tropaeoline 00, O
w
Orange IV, II, extra, R
*Lanafuchsine SG
tt
mentioned dyestuffs J P^S^ 5.
4-
Still faster to light, alkalies and
perspiration, and preferable for dyeing
*Azo Wool Blue SE
gentlemen's suitings containing cotton
(for saddening) '
effect threads:
*Cyanole Fast Green G
For bright greens:
*Acid Yellow AT, *Orange GG
*Acid Green extra cone. \ . ,
*Lanafuchsine SG
*Acid Green extra cone. B
F
*Peri Wool Blue G, (for saddeningt
*Acid Green 5G
O
Method I, page 4.
*Fast Acid Green BN
Cu
Very fast to light:
*Fast Acid Green B
l^
Naphtol Green B
shaded with
tjq
shaded with
*Xaphtol Yellow S
*AGid Yellow AT
Method
H,
page 5.
•Tetra Cyanole V ^
*Lanafuchsine SG
*Peii Wool Blue G
*Cyanole Fast Green G
For bright greens fast to
alkalies (B.jl liar d Gr ee ns) :
1
Cyanole Fast Green G i -\i^<Ca.
od 1
shaded with \ I,
*Acid Yellow AT ) P'^g^ 1.
The dyestuffs marked with a
n asterisk (*) do not stain effect threads
For dyeing wo
ollen and worsted pieces with
F
or ladies'dress goods:
Acid Yellow AT
Acid Green extra cone
Naphtol Yellow S
Acid Green 5G [ in pale
Orange GG
Naphtol Green B ( shades
Azo Wool Blue C
Lanafuchsine SG
For ^Method
see xmder "Wool and Silk'".
For particulars of fastness to steamin
g, carbonising and stoving of the above-
on Woollen and Worsted Piece-Qoods.
Of uery good fastness to
Luashing
Exceedingly fast to light and
LUQshing
Combinations of
*Brilliant Milling Green B
*]Milling Yellow O, OO
^Milling Red G
Wool Red BG
*Formyl Blue B
*Tetra Cyanole A
For bright greens:
*Cyanole Fast Green G ]
*Brilliant Milling Green B I. ^\^j*f°'^
I page 6.
shaded with
*Millin2 Yellow O
OOJ
Methoc
I,
d
page 4.
The following prove satisfactory
for many purposes :
*Cyanole Fast Green G
shaded with
Tropaeoline O
*Acid Yellow AT
Brilliant Milling Green and Cya-
nole Fast Green are frequently used
for the dyeing of green cloths for uni-
form facings, etc., and are treated with
tannin in order to produce better fast-
ness to water (see page 82).
Combinations of
*Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Chrome
Blue G
*Cyanole Fast Green G
for brightening)
*Brilliant MilUng Green B
(for brightening)
of cotton, China-grass or artificial silk,
white silk shots, the following may be used
For gentlemen's suiting:
Combinations of
*Anthrac£ne Chrome Blue F
Anthracene Chrome Blue
G, BB
Anthracene Blue Black C
*Cyanole Fast Green G
(for brightening)
♦Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Acid Brown G
Anthracene Chrome Brown
D, DW, *SWN
*Anthracene Chrome Red A
or such of
^Anthracene Chromate Green B
*Alphanol Blue BR extra
Anthracene Blue Black C
*Cyanole Fast Green G
(for brightening)
* Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Chromate Brown
3G, EB
Green for Military. Police,
Customs and other Uniforms:
Method
X, for
very deep
shades
likewise
VIII,
pages 9
and 10.
Anthracene Chrome Blue F
Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Chrome Violet B
for Method of dyeing see
page 91.
mentioned dyestuffs see pages 80 to 82.
Dyestuffs for Black on
Direct Blacks of uery good fastness to light and normal fastness to
alkalies and perspiration
A. For plain goods
B For goods containing effect threads
For blacks with a bluish cast:
Xaphlylamine Black, 4B, 6B,
Method III, page 6.
Naphtylamine Black, S, ES8B,
ES5B, ES3B, IBS, 4BS,
SGG
Naphtylamine Blue Black 5 B
Naphtol Black 6B, 3B
For dense blacks:
Naphtylamine Black 1 Method III,
X2B, X3B, 00 I page 6.
Naphtylamine Black ESN, \ t3 ^
ESS, T, TJ, TN, SS2B, SS3B c^ %
Naphtylamine Blue Black B, BD? ^ P'
Naphtol Black 2 B, B, SG, M ) P'p
The following level especially well:
Azo Merino Black 8 B, 6B,
6 BE, B. BE
and are used especially for cashmere
and other light goods.
Method I, page 4.
For speciall}- cheap blacks:
Naphtyl Blue Black N '
Naphtylamine Black 19J, 4B,
6B, TBS, ESN, X2B, X3B
Naphtyl Blue Black
5B, B, BD
with Logwood and Fustic.
Shading products:
F o r b 1 a c k s with a bluish cast
Naphtylamine Black EFF
(effect threads are nut stained
at all)
Naphtylamine Black
S, ES8B, ES5B, ES3B,
IBS, 4BS, SGG
Naphtylamine Blue Black 5B
Naphtol Black 6B, 3B
For dense blacks:
Naphtylamine Black
ESN, ESS, T, TJ, TN,
SS2B, SS3B, SOO
Naphtylamine Blue Black
B, BD
Naphtol Black 2B, B, SG
Forladies'dressgoods cont ain-
ing effect threads, the follow-
ing are very extensi\'ely used:
Forblue-lAzo Merino Black
black j 8B, 6B, 6BE
For jet 1 Azo Merino Black
black j B, BE
Method I, page 4.
The same as are stated in column 2
ui this page, and in addition thereto
for jet blacks :
TropaeolineOO, O, Indian Yellow
Orange II, extra. [FF
For dyeing woollen and worsted pieces with
For ladies' dress goods:
Shading products:
For blue-black :
Acid Violet 6BS, Tetra Cyanole V
Cyanoie Green B, 6G, Acid Green.
For jet blacks:
Acid Yellow AT, Orange GG.
Naphtylamine Black EFF
shaded with
Azo Wool Violet 7R
Orange GG
Acid Yellow AT
For particulars of fastness to steaming, carbonising and stovin.i,
— 78 -
For Method set
under
"Wool and Silk'
Woollen and Worsted Piece-Qoods.
Blacks of Dery goods fastness to light, alkalies and perspiration
fl. For plain goods
B. For goods containing effect threads
Anthracene Chrome Black
5B, F, FE, P extra, PPX extra
PFEextra,PFBB extra, PFR extra
Anthracene Acid Black DSF,
DSX, DSFB, DNG } " ^
Anthracene Acid Black SR, SBB,
:\rethod VIII, page 9.
Alphanol Black BG, R
:^Iethod III, page 6.
Naphtyl Blue Black N| Method
Naphtvlamine Black R I ^^' ^
^ ' ' page ( .
As a substitute for Logwood-iron
black on fine
1 1 1 e s o t g e n
tie men's dre:
;uitings, etc.
Naphtyl Blue Black N I -Method
in combination with , °"
sumac extract J ^"^^^ ^'
The Anthracene Chrome Blacks, and
in particular the 5B and P extra brands,
withstand the potting process verj- well.
Xaphtyl Blue Black N and Kaph-
tylamine Black R also prove satisfact-
orj- for many purposes, if some acetic
acid be added to the potting liquor.
Shading products:
IFormyl Violet S4B— 1 OB
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Formyl Blue B
Brilliant ]Milling Green B
and in addition thereto for Anthracene
Colours :
Anthracene Chrome Blue FR, F, B
Anthracene Acid Blue BBN
Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Acid Brown G; further,
for Naphtyl Blue Black and
Naphtylamine Black R,
Anthracene Yellow C
Naphtylamine Black CrN > t^
Naphtylamine Black Cr. U; g:
Of still better fastness to U^ o
alkalies and perspiration : ( ^
Anthracene Acid Black SRT -"^ ^
Anthracene Acid Black SR' ^
If the requirements are very exacting:
Anthracene Acid Black ST,
Method IX, page 10.
Anthracene Acid Black ST is also
used extensively for union linings
(Italians, serges etc,) containing a fast
black warp and white or coloured
effect threads.
Suitable shading products.
For blue-black :
Formyl Violet S4B— lOB
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Formyl Blue B
Brilliant Milling Green B
Anthracene Chrome Blue FR, F
(for dyeings especially fast to light.)
For jet black :
Anthracene Yellow BN.
white silk shots, the following may be used
F (I r g e n 1 1 e m e n's s u i t i n g s :
Anthracene Acid Black ST
shaded with
Lanacyl A'iolet B
of the above-mentioned dyestuffs see pages 80 to 82
I for Method of dyeing
I see page 93.
79
Special Properties of Fastness of the Dyestuffs
mentioned in the Tables on Pages 68 to 79.
Dyestuffs fast to steaming
All the dyestuffs enumerated possess an excellent fastness to
steaming, with the exception of the following, which slightly
change their shade on severe steaming, but withstand a normal
steaming quite well :
Scarlet EC
Brilliant Crocei'ne, all brands
Croceme AZ
Eosine BN
Eosine Scarlet B
Er^'throsine, all brands
Rose Bengale extra N
Acid Violet 4RS
Lanacyl Violet B
Lanacvl Blue BB, R
Peri AVool Blue B, BG
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Naphtol Green B
Alphanol Black B, BG, R
Xaphtylamine Black 4B, 6B,
X2B, X3B, OO, 19J
d3-ed without an
addition of
sulphate of
copper
Naphtyl Blue
Black X
Xaphtylamine
Black R
Anthracene Acid Black DSF,
DSX, DSFB
Oxy Diamine Yellow TZ
Diamine Catechine G
Diamine Brown R
Oxy Diamine Brown G
Diaminogene extra.
Dyestuffs fast to carbonising:
All the dyestuffs mentioned, with the exception of
change slightly
to the blue side
but prove satis-
factory for most
purposes
Azo Orseille BB
Lanafuchsine 6B
Xaphtol Red C
Amaranth
Brilliant Orseille C
Azo AVool Violet
7RJ
Acid Violet 4RS
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
Peri Wool Blue
Water Blue ^ all brands
Alkaline Blue
Xaphtyl Blue Black X
Xaphtylamine Black R
Eosine, all brands
Irisamine G
Diamond Magenta
]\Iagenta yellow shade
Oxy Diamine Yellow TZ
Oxy Diamine Orange G, R
Oxy Diamine Brown G
Diamine Brilliant Bordeaux G
All combinations with
Logwood.
The Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted Piece-Goods.
Dyeings produced with the following dyestuffs must be well
neutralised after carbonising :
Fast Yellow S
]Metanil Yellow
Tropaeoline 00, G
(Irange IV
Azo Merino Black, ail brands
Diamine Brown R
Diamine Purpurine B, 3B, 6B
Diamine Red 4B, 6B, lOB
Diamine Bordeaux B.
Dyestuffs fast tostoving:
All the dyestuffs mentioned, with the exception of
Fast Yellow S
Scarlet EC
Brilliant Scarlet R— 4R
Brilliant Croceine, all brands
Croceine AZ
Acid ]\Iagenta
Xaphtol Red C, EB
AVool Red B, BG
Milling Red FR
Acid Violet 4RS
Formyl Violet 8B, lOB
Lanacyl Violet B
Indigo Blue N, SGN
Peri Wool Blue, all brands
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
Lanacyl Navy Blue, all brands
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Water Blue, all brands
Wool Blue TB
Thiocarmine R
Acid Green, all brands
Fast Acid Green BN, B
Naphtylamine Black 4B, 6B,
X2B, X3B, OO, R
Alphanol Black B, BG, R
Naphtyl Blue Black, all brands
All combinations with
Logwood
Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Acid Brown G
Anthracene Chromate Brown 3G
Oxy Diamine Orange G, R
Oxy Diamine Brown G
Diamine Brown R
Diamine Scarlet B
Diamine Bordeaux B
Diaminogene extra.
The followii
most purposes :
Tropaeoline, all brands
Metanil Yellow
Orange IV
Crystal Scarlet 6R
Brilliant Scarlet 6R
Roccelline
:Milling Red G
Formyl Violet 6B
Xaphtol Green B
are fairly fast to stoving and sufficient for
Anthracene Yellow C, R, GG
Anthracene Chrome Brown
SAVN, DWN
Anthracene Chromate Brown EB
Anthracene Acid Black DSF,
DSN, DSFB
Diamine Orange B
Diamine Catechine G
Diamine Brown 3G
— 81 -
The Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted Piece-Goods.
Naphtylamine Black ES8B, Diamine Scarlet 3B
ES5B, ES3B, ESN, ESS Diamine Red 4B, 6B
Naphtylamine Blue Black B, BD Diamond Magenta la
Magenta yellow shade.
Increasing the Fastness to Perspiration and Steaming.
a) By a treatment with sulphate of copper.
The fastness to perspiration and steaming of
Naphtyl Blue Black N, FB, EBB
Naphtylamine Black R, RNB, NBB
is very considerably enhanced by a treatment of the dyed material
with sulphate of copper in the exhausted dyebath, according to
Method IV, page 1.
b) By a treatment with formaldehyde.
The fastness to steaming and especially to perspiration of
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
is considerably increased by a treatment with formaldehyde.
The goods are dyed according to Method III, page 6, with
the addition of Glauber's salt and acetic acid, adding after
^J4 hour's boiling
2 — 3% formaldehyde of 40%
to the dvebath and boiling for another ^U hour.
Increasing the Fastness to Water by a subsequent
Treatment with Tannic Acid.
The fastness to water of most dyestuffs is considerably im-
proved by a simple treatment of the dyed goods with tannic acid.
A treatment of this kind is particularly important for dyeings
on cloth for facings (for instance greens dyed with Brilliant
^liliing Green or Cyanole Fast Green) and for bunting.
The method of working is as follows:
The dyed and rinsed goods are treated for 20 — 30 minutes
in a short bath heated to 30° C. (85 deg. F.) containing 8 oz
pure tannic acid per 10 gallons liquor, and then hydroextracted
and dried without rinsing.
The shade is not changed at all or onh' very slightly.
For bright shades it is advisable to use a very pure quality of
tannic acid.
The Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted Piece-Goods.
Correcting of defectively dyed Pieces.
Goods dyed with Acid Colours.
Goods which have been dyed too deep a shade are stripped
by boiHng for 30 to 40 minutes in a fresh liquor charged with
10 -200/0 Glauber's salt crystals, or, with 5— lO^/o acetate of
ammonia*, to which 1 °/o ammonia (liquor of ammonia) may be
added; they are then rinsed, and dyed to shade in a fresh
acid bath.
Goods which have been dyed too deep a shade with
levelling colours are frequently stripped by boiling for some time
in water together with a white piece.
Pieces with an uneven or mottled appearance, or pieces
which are insufficiently dyed through, are often corrected by
adding a large quantity of Glauber's salt to the old dyebath
and boiling hard for ^ji to ^/4 hour. Should this not produce
satisfactory results, the goods are best stripped by boiling for
^Iz hour in a fresh bath charged with
10^/0 acetate of ammonia* and
1 ^/o ammonia
and then causing the pieces to absorb the stripped colour again
by adding some acid.
If these methods do not yield the desired effect, it is best
to strip the material with Hyraldite**.
The stripping with Hyraldite is carried out in a clean wooden
vat, the steam pipe of which is wrapped round with a piece of
cotton cloth. Prepare a short lukewarm bath with
V2 — 4 °/o Hyraldite Z for Stripping
2 7-2-5 % formic acid 85 7o
or
V2 — 5 % Hyraldite C extra and
4 — 100/0 acetic acid 30%
enter the goods to be stripped at once, heat in about 7-2 hour to
the boil, and continue boiling according to necessity for 10 to 20
minutes. Then rinse first in cold and then in hot water, and re-dye.
of the weight of the
goods, and according
to the depth of shade
and the resistance
of the dyeings to such
a treatment :
* For preparation of acetate of ammonia see foot-note on page 8.
** Hj-raldite must always be stored in well-closed receptacles kept
in a cool, dry place Hyraldite C extra is dissolved before use in warm
water, whereas Hyraldite Z for Stripping is added in the dry state straight
to the stripping bath.
— 83 — 6* lie
The Dyeing of Woollen and 'Worsted Piece-Goods.
Goods dyed with C li r o m c Colours or Diamine
Colon r s .
The most suitable stripping agent for Chrome or Diamine
Colours is Hyraldite, ammonia or acetate of ammonia but rarely
yielding satisfactory results. The method of working is the
same as stated overleaf.
Dyeing of Vegetable Impurities.
(Burls, burrs, threads, straw, etc.)
If only a few burls or burrs are noticeable after dyeing, they
are removed by means of the burling iron in the usual manner:
in dark coloured goods the burls, etc. are stained with burling ink.
For goods containing large quantities of burls, such a pro-
ceeding is however impracticable ; such goods must then either
be carbonised, or, better still, burl-dyed with Diamine Colours.
Most of our dyestuffs withstand subsequent carbonising very
w^ell, as is indicated in the tables on pages 80 and 81. If, after
dyeing, the goods are neutralised with soda or ammonia, the
last rinsing bath is acidulated to advantage with some acetic or
formic acid.
Burl-dyeing with Diamine Colours is exceedingly simple and
is carried out in the washing machine after the rinsing of the
dyed goods.
The following dyestuffs come into consideration for this purpose:
Diamine Black R]SIW Diamine Nitrazol Brown B, G
(for deep shades and blacks) Diamine Brown S
Diamine Black BH Diamine Heliotrope B
Diamine Sky Blue FF Oxy Diamine A'iolet B
Diamine Blue 2B, 3B Diamine Rose BD, BG
Diamine Fast Blue, FFB Direct Rose T
Diamine Fast Yellow A Diamine Purpurine 6B
Diamine Orange G, D Diamine Red lOB.
— 8t —
The D3'^eing of Woollen and Worsted Piece-Goods.
Method of Dyeing.
The pieces dyed in an acid bath are thoroughly rinsed ; then
a cold bath, as short as possible, is prepared in the washing
machine itself, charged according to the depth of shade with
^/4 oz soda ash 1
1—2 lbs desiccated Glauber's salt P^"" Hq,for
^/4 — 3 oz Diamine Colour j
The goods are worked. in this bath for 20 to 40 minutes
and again rinsed. The last rinsing bath is to advantage heated a
little and acidulated slightly with acetic or formic acid. Goods
containing very hard cotton burls are best left lying unrinsed over
night, being finished off the following morning as indicated above.
Naphtyl Blue Black and Naphtylamine Black in
Combination with Logwood and Sumac.
Logwood Combination (so-called Combination -Black.)
The combination of Naphtyl Blue Black or Naphtylamine
Black with Logwood is extensively used, especially for piece-
goods, yielding very fine bluish blacks at a low cost which offer
over the Logwood dyeings the advantage of very much better
fastness to light and acids. For deep blacks. Fustic extract is
used for saddening, as the case may demand.
The following dyestuffs are best suited for Combination-Black:
Naphtyl Blue Black N ] for bluish blacks,
Naphtylamine Black 19 J, 4B, 6B, ESN ""^^.J'i^foT-er^
Naphtylamine Blue Black B, BD J blacks,
Naphtylamine Blue Black 5B ] . ,.,,,,•,,, ,
, / 1 • T31 1 Ti->o } lo"" Diignt bluish blacks,
Naphtylamme Black IBS J
Naphtylamine Black X 2 B ) for particularly cheap
Naphtylamine Black X3B J blacks-.
Naphtyl Blue Black N, Naphtylamine Black IBS, ESN and
the Naphtylamine Blue Black brands yield the best dyeings in
point of fastness to light.
— 85 -
The Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted Piece-Goods.
jMethod of Dyeing.
Charge the bath with
2 — 3^/0 oxalic acid (according to the hardness of the water) and
10— 200/0 Glauber's salt crystals,
add the requisite quantity of dyestuff and Logwood extract or
Hematine crystals, if necessary some Fustic extract also, and
boil up the bath. Enter the well wetted goods, and work for 20
to 30 minutes without steam, then for about 1 hour at the
boil. If by this time the bath has not assumed a yellowi'-h
brown colour (an indication that the black dyestuff has not
yet all been absorbed^ boiling is continued for another 15 to
20 minutes with the addition of 1/2— 1 ^jo oxalic acid. Then add
4*^/0 sulphate of iron and
4°/o sulphate of copper
and boil for another ^/4 hour.
After dyeing, rinse very thoroughly, or, if necessary, wash
with fuller's earth and some acetic acid.
Another method of working employed in some dye-houses,
which yields however dyeings of not quite such good fastness to
light, is as follows:
Charge the dyebath first with
4 — 6% sulphate of iron
2 — 3% sulphate of copper
Logwood extract or Hematine crystals,
and, if necessary, Fustic extract;
then add oxalic acid (on an average 2 °/o of the weight of the
goods) until the black precipitate in the bath is dissolved and
the liquor has assumed a yellowish colour.
Then add the requisite quantity of Naphtyl Blue Black.
Naphtylamine Black or Naphtylamine Blue Black in solution,
Enter at 60 — lO** C (140—160 deg. F), raise in 20 minutes to
boiling point, and boil for about 1^/4 hour, when ^ji — 1 "/o oxalic
acid may be added in order to better exhaust the bath. Then
rinse the goods thoroughly, or wash if necessary with fuller's
earth and the addition of some acetic acid.
— 86 -
The Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted Piece-Goods.
Naphtyl Blue Black N in combination with Sumac.
This combination is used extensively as a substitute for
the iron-logwood black, especially for better-class worsteds for
gentlemen's wear (dress suitings, etc.).
It imparts to the goods the full handle and high lustre
peculiar to materials dyed with Logwood and iron, and besides
effects an increase in the weight by about 6 — 8*^/0. Over the
iron black it offers the great advantage of a simpler and quicker
method of dyeing, considerably better fastness to light and acids,
of leaving cotton lists or effect threads much cleaner, and cover-
ing vegetable impurities of the wool, such as burrs, particles of
jute, wood and straw exceedingly well.
In order to ensure good fastness to rubbing, it is sufficient
to rinse the dyed pieces in cold water for ^2 — '^U hour, whereas
iron-logwood black has to be washed for several hours with
fuller's earth.
Charge the dyebath with
3 — 4*^/o oxalic acid (according to the hardness of the
20*^/0 Glauber's salt crystals [water)
5-70/0 Naphtyl Blue Black N
0,2 — 0,4% Brilliant Milling Green B
7 0/0 sumac extract of 52 deg. Tw.
Boil up the bath, shut off steam, enter the goods, and
work for ^J2 hour without steam and then for about 1 hour at
the boil. Should the bath by that time not be exhausted, add
another ^/a — 1 °/o oxalic acid or formic acid to the bath.
After exhaustion of the bath add
2 — 30/0 sulphate of copper and
• 40/0 sulphate of iron,
boil for another 30 minutes, and rinse in cold water for ^J2 to
^/4 hour.
The dyebath may be used for dyeing subsequent lots. Add
oxalic acid until the precipitate which has formed is completely
dissolved, hereafter 5o/o Glauber's salt, and then the dyestuff and
3^/2 — 40/0 sumac extract, proceeding otherwise in the same
manner as for the first lot.
— 87
The Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted Piece-Goods.
Acid Colours in Combination with Logwood
for the Production of Navies and Dark Blues.
Such a combination yields very cheap navy and dark blues,
though not of a very good resistance to light, and is therefore
used in the first place for cheap materials, particularly shoddy
stuffs, for ready-made goods.
The following dyestuffs come chiefly into consideration for
this purpose :
For bright navy and dark blues:
Formyl Violet S4B, 10 B
Alkaline Violet CA, C
Water Blue B, R, RB
Wool Blue TB.
For dull navy and dark blues:
Solid Blue R, 3R.
For navy and dark blues of better fastness to light:
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
Lanacyl Navy Blue B, BB
Lanacyl Violet B.
Method of Dyeing.
Dye either according to the one-bath method with the
addition of sulphate of iron, sulphate of copper and oxalic acid,
or, by the two-bath method on a mordant of chrome and tartar,
or of chrome, copper and sulphuric acid.
The dyeings produced according to the one-bath method
work out at a very low cost ; dyeings on chromed goods on
the other hand offer the advantage of greater brightness and
better fastness to rubbing.
A. Dyeing according to the One-bath ]\Iethod.
Charge the dyebath first with
4 °/o sulphate of iron
30/0 sulphate of copper
30 — 50"/o Logwood chips;
then add sufficient oxalic acid (about 1^2 — 2 ^/o of the weight
of the goods) to dissolve the precipitate formed in the bath and
to make the liquor assume a yellowish colour, hereafter adding the
requisite quantity of Acid Colour in solution.
Enter the wetted out goods at about 60^ C. (140 deg. F.),
raise in ^/s hour to the boil, continue boiling for 1 hour, and
— 88 —
The Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted Piece-Goods.
exhaust, if necessary, with the addition of ^j^ — 1 ^/o oxalic acid
well diluted with cold water.
After dyeing, rinse very thoroughly, or, if necessary, wash
with fuller's earth and the addition of some acetic acid.
Should a subsequent shading with Acid Colours be required,
the dyebath must first be cooled off somewhat, and then be
heated up again gradually after the addition of the dyestuff.
B, Dyeing according to the Two-bath Method.
Mordant the goods as usual for 1 ^2 hours at the boil with
3°/q bichrome and | (1^/2 — 2*^/0 bichrome and
2V2^'o tartar, J ""' \ l^'s— 3«/o formic acid 85%
13 ^lo bichrome,
1 V2 ^/o sulphate of copper and
1 ^2 °/o sulphuric acid ;
then rinse well, and dye in a fresh bath.
Charge the dyebath first with the requisite quantity of the
Acid Colour and Logwood, enter the goods at 60° C. (140 deg.
F.j, raise in ^/2 hour to the boil, and exhaust the bath after
^/i hour's boiling by the gradual addition of
3 — 5 °/o acetic acid or
1 — lV2°/o sulphuric acid;
then rinse thoroughly.
Acid Colours may be used for subsequent shading, as
indicated under (A).
The Production of Pastil Colours,
The most delicate shades on woollen piece-goods, the so-
called "Ball" or "Pastil" Colovirs, are produced in the following
manner : In case the available pieces are not of a clear white,
they are subjected to one of the bleaching processes mentioned
on page 36 or 66 and dyed, best cold to lukewarm in the
washing machine, either with chalk or with barytes.
Chalk hath. Charge the bath with 1 '/s — 2 lbs whitening
per 10 gallons liquor, or 25 — 30°/o of the weight of the goods
— 89 —
The Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted Piece-Goods.
and the requisite quantities of dyestuff, and dye cold to luke-
warm for ^,'2 — ^/i hour; add then 1 — 3 °/o acetic acid, and work
until the goods are dyed to shade.
Barytes hath. Work the goods for ^'4 hour in a bath
charged with 10--15°/o Glauber's salt crystals, add gradually
first a solution of 10°/o barium chloride and after a little while
the colour solution, working as above-stated until dyed to shade.
The goods dyed either way are then rinsed for a short
time in the washing machine with a plentiful supply of water,
which makes unnecessary the inconvenient beating of the goods
in the beating machine; finally the pieces are dried on the tenter.
The most current shades for this process are yellow, orange,
pink, red, blue, violet and green, and the most suitable dye-
stuffs for producing the same are
for yellow: China Yellow B
Acid Yellow AT;
for orange: Orange GG, extra;
for pink: Rosazeine B
Eosine GGF ;
for red: Azo Red A
Azo Rubine A
Azo Orseille BB
Lanafuchsine SB, SG ;
for violet: Formyl Violet S4B— lOB
Acid Violet 6BS
Alkaline Violet C, CA;
for blue: Formyl Blue B
Brilliant xMilling Blue B
Cyanole FF ;
for green: Brilliant ^Milling Green B
Cyanole Fast Green G
** Tetra Cyanole V.
For the dyeing of light goods which in point of fastness
to light have to meet less exacting demands, Basic Colours may
be used also, the method of working being the same as afore-
stated without however adding any acetic acid.
90
The Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted Piece-Goods with White Silk Effects.
Dyeing of Woollen and Worsted Piece-Goods
with White Silk Effect Threads.
P^or the production of clear silk effects, low acidity and a
high temperature of the dyebath are essential. In order to have
the temperature of the dyebath as high as possible, it is advisable
to fix a second steam coil in the dye vat, preferably in the main
part of the vat in which the goods are running.
Dyeing of Ladies' Dress Goods.
See the subsequent chapter on the "Dyeing of Fabrics
composed of Wool and Silk".
Dyeing of Gentlemen's Suitings.
The number of the dyestuffs suitable for dyeing gentlemen's
suitings containing silk effect threads is a limited one compar-
atively owing to the high degree of fastness usually demanded
of this class of goods.
For compound shades and blacks, our Anthracene Colours
are in the first place to be recommended, for navy and dark
blues our Anthracene Chrome Blue F as well as the special
brand Da7'k Blue TFS, which latter, in addition to good fastness,
offers the advantage of a simple method of dyeing and a low cost.
The following dyestuffs and their combinations are best
suited for dyeing these goods :
For compound shades (Grey, Mode, Brown, Olive):
Combinations of
Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Chrome Violet B (as a reddening agent)
Anthracene Chrome Blue F.
Method of dyeing: It is advantageous to dye on chromed
material, because in such a manner the clearest silk effects are
obtained.
ISIordant the goods in the customary manner for 1 */2 hours
at the boil with
2 — 3 ^/o bichrome and 1 — 2°/o bichrome and
l'/2— 2V2% tartar °'' 1— 3»/o formic acid 85%,
according to the depth of shade, then rinse, and dye in a fresh
bath w'ith the addition of
2 — 5^/o acetic acid or
5^/o acetate of ammonia * (for very pale shades).
* For preparation of acetate of ammonia see foot-note on page 8 .
- 91 —
The Dj'eing of Woollen and Worsted Piece-Goods.
Enter the goods at 40—50° C. (105—120 deg. F.), raise in
^/2 hour to boiling temperature, and boil well for P/2 — 2 hours.
In the case of dark shades, add gradually, after 1 hour's boiling,
2 — 4 % acetic acid in order to exhaust the baths.
After dyeing, rinse the goods well, and finally sour off
thoroughly with acetic or formic acid.
For subsequent shading, in case only slight quantities
are required, the following colours are used :
Acid Yellow AT Lanafuchsine SG
Orange GG Azo Wool Blue C
which may be added straight to the boiling bath. If, however,
the shading has to be done with Anthracene Colours, the bath
must be cooled off first, and then be gradually brought to the
boil again.
For navies and dark blues the following are espe-
cially well suited:
Dark Blue WS
shaded with
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
Lanacyl Violet B
and for shades which are required to be particularly fast to light,
alkalies and perspiration :
Anthracene Chrome Blue F
shaded with
Anthracene Chrome Violet B.
Method of dyeing Dark Blue WS.
Charge the dyebath with
10^0 acetate of ammonia
5°/o acetic acid 30*^/0 and, say,
4_5 0/^ Dark Blue WS ;
enter the goods at the boil, and exhaust the bath, after 1 hour's
severe boiling, by the gradual addition of 5 — 8'^*/o acetic acid.
Then rinse, and finally sour off well with acetic or formic acid.
The following dyestuffs are best suited for subsequent shading:
Azo Wool Blue C Azo Wool Violet 1 R
Lanafuchsine SG Orange GG,
and may be added straight to the boiling liquor.
- 92 —
The Dyeing of Woollen and "Worsted Piece- Goods with White Silk Effects.
Method of dyeing Anthracene Chrome Blue F,
Mordant the goods as usual for P/o hour at the boil with
3 — 4"/o bichrome and 1 ^2 — 2 °/o bichrome and
272-30/0 tartar °'' IV2— 3> formic acid 85^/0;
then rinse, and dye in a fresh bath with about
3*^/0' Anthracene Chrome Blue F and
50/0 acetic acid.
Enter at about 70" C (160 deg. F.), raise in 20 minutes to the
boil, and, after 1 hour's severe boiling, add 5 — 7°/o acetic acid in
several portions, and work for another ^/j — 1 hour in the strongly
boiling bath. Finally rinse the goods well, and brighten with
acetic or formic acid.
Regarding the subsequent shading see the remarks on page 92
relating to compound shades.
Black.
Anthracene Acid Black ST has proved eminently well suited
for Blacks on this line of goods; for the production of blue-blacks.
Anthracene Acid Black ST may be shaded with some Lanacyl Violet.
Charge the dyebath, which must not contain a volume of
water more than 40 times the weight of the goods, with
10^0 Glauber's salt crystals
1^4^/0 formic acid of 85% and
T — go/^j Anthracene Acid Black ST,
enter the goods at the boil, add after ^/U hour's severe boiling
1 ^'a'^'Io formic acid of 85 "^'/o? ^^^ work for another 45 minutes
in the strongly boiling bath.
Then rinse the material thoroughly in cold water, enter into a
fresh, boiling bath charged with 2 ^2 '^/o formic acid 85 "/o (of
the weight of the goods), add 2'^*/o bichrome after '/2 hour's boiling,
and work at the simmer for another 30 minutes.
Then rinse, and finally sour off well with formic acid.
Dyeing subsequent lots in the old bath. The dye-
bath exhausts only partly and may therefore to advantage be
used over again. For each subsequent lot to be dyed in the old
bath, the latter is replenished with
30/0 Glauber's salt crystals and
4 — 5'7o Anthracene Acid Black ST;
enter the goods into the boiling bath, after ^/4 hour's severe
boiling add P/a "^/o formic acid 85 '^'/o, and work for another
2/4 hour in the strongly boiling bath.
— m —
The Dyeing of "Woollen and Worsted Piece-Goods,
Then rinse, and aftertreat in the same manner as stated for
the first lot.
In case the silk is not clear enough, it may be subsequently
cleared by working for 20 — 30 minutes in a bath charged with
ij^ — 1^3 gallon ammonium acetate per 100 gallons. For goods
dyed with Anthracene Colours, the stripping bath is applied
at the boil, and at 70-80° C (160 — 175 deg. F.) for goods
dyed with Dark Blue WS.
The goods are then rinsed, and soured off with acetic or
formic acid.
The Dyeing of Military and other Uniform
or Livery Cloths.
i
Dyeing of Military and other Uniform Cloths.
Military and other uniform cloths are mostly dyed in the
loose wool, such dyestuffs coming first into consideration
as are distinguished by particularly good properties of fastness to
milling, light, steaming and carbonising.
Cloths for facings on the other hand are as a rule dyed in
the piece ; they are not only required to be thoroughly dyed
through and as fast to light as possible, but must also possess
good fastness to water and alkalies.
The colours used in the production of the most important
materials are the following :
Black dyed in the loose Wool.
The Black required for the production of Marengo, greyish
black and blue and black mixture cloths (for instance, for trou-
serings for the German infantry, overcoats for the Austrian
infantry, grey cloth for traffic officials and overcoatings for post
officials etc.) is dyed in the loose wool with
Charge the dyebath with
2 — 5°/o acetic acid
10°/o Glauber's salt crystals (for
piece-goods) and the dyestuff.
Enter at 70° C (160 deg. F.), raise
at once to the boil, exhaust the bath after
'It hour's boiling by gradually adding,
(i — 10" bisulphate of soda or
2—4 "/o sulphuric acid,
and chrome, when the liquor has only
a slightly reddish tinge, with
1,5 — 3" bichrome for
'/2— 3/i hour at the boil, using
for 5''/o dyestuff l,5"lo bichrome
„ 7°,o ,, 2,5»/o
,, 8% ,, .. 37o
When dyeing A>ithracene Chrome
Black F and FE, calcareous water
must first be corrected by adding 2",o
oxalate of ammonia before the addition
of the dyestuff and acid.
Anthracene Chrome Black F
„ FE
Anthracene Chrome Black
PFB extra
Anthracene Chrome Black
PPN extra
or with
Anthracene Acid Black DSN
,, DSF
„ DNG
97
7 e II
Dyeing of Military and other Uniform Cloths.
Black dyed in the Piece.
a) For cloths dyed to very fast colours, the same dyestufFs
as mentioned before for loose wool are used, being applied accord-
ing to the same method and dyed both on white goods and
on material which has been previously vat-dyed in the loose state
with Indigo Blue MLB.
The before-mentioned dyestuffs offer the advantage of excellent
penetration, and the goods dyed in the piece, like those dyed
in the wool, possess excellent fastness to light.
b) Facings and other cloths to be produced with good fastness
to light are dyed with
^ with the addition of oxalic
Naphtylamme Black R [ acid, acetic acid, Glauber's salt
Naphtyl Blue Black N
or with
and sulphate of copper according
to ^Method IV, page 7;
Naphtylamine Black S
T
TN
Naphtylamine Blue Black
B
5B
with the addition of sulphuric
acid and Glauber's salt
according to Method II,
page 5.
Naphtol Black B
„ 2B
Only in fastness to milling and potting these colours are
inferior to those produced as described under (a); in all such
cases, however, where these properties of fastness are not essen-
tial, they are used quite generally on account of their eminent
fastness to light.
Blue dyed in the loose Wool.
Blue is dyed on loose wool both for solid shades and for
mixture effects of blue (grey, etc ) for military and other uniform
cloths, the wool being for such purpose sometimes dyed with
Anthracene Colours direct and at others vat-dyed previously with
Indigo MLB and then dyed with the dyestuffs mentioned.
The following come into consideration:
Anthracene Chrome Blue F \ ^yed according to the one-
FR bath method with the addition
g of sulphuric acid, or acetic
„ / and sulphuric acid or formic
^^ acid, and chromed sub-
G sequently; Methods VIII and
p> IX, pages lu and 11;
98
Dyeing of Military and other Uniform Cloths.
^^ ' ^^ ^_ -,^,,.r dyed on a chrome mordant
according to Method X, pagel 1 .
In the case of specially deep
blues produced on a chrome
Anthracene Chrome Blue BW extra
RRW extra
R
G
BB
fui ther,
mordant it is recommended to
after-chrome lightly in order to
obtain as good fastness to
milling and alkalies as possible;
\ dyed in a weakly acid bath, if
Alphanol Blue, [ necessary with the addition of a
all brands ( little bichrome.
J Method V, page 8.
Blue dyed in the Piece.
For dark blues dyed in the piece the same dyestuffs are
used as for blue on loose wool, the method of dyeing also being
the same.
The pieces intended for blue are frequently also bottomed
first with Indigo, mostly in the loose wool, the goods being
then topped or saddened in the piece with the before- mentioned
products.
For dark blue Riding Breeches,
Naphtyl Blue Black N ]
, , 1 V, dyed according to
shaded with > n/r_.i-_j tt; ____ r-
Alphanol Blue BR extra
is also used.
i Method IV, page 7,
Pale Blue for Facings.
Bright, pale blues for facings are produced either with
easily levelling dyestuffs such as
Cyanole FF or extra 1 ^^ , , ,
Tetra Cyanole A, V J ^^^^^od 1, page 4;
or with
Alkaline Blue 6B— 2B Method VI, page 8.
— 99 ~ 7* en
Dj-eing of Militarj' and other Uniform Clotls.
Dark Green and Bluish Green dyed in the loose Wool.
Dark green and bluish green military and other uniform cloths,
such as are worn by the German customs officials, constabulary
and foresters, are dyed almost without exception in the loose
wool, the following dyestuffs being used for the purpose :
Anthracene Chrome Blue F
G
Anthracene Yellow BN or C
shaded it necessary with
Tetra Cyanole A or
Brilliant Milling Green B
and saddened with
Anthracene Chrome Black 5B
\for one-balh dyeings^
or
Anthracene Acid Black DSF
\for dyeings on a chrome
mordants
for dark Russian Green:
Anthracene Acid Black DSM
or
Anthracene Chrome Black 5 B
in combination with
Anthracene Yellow BX
dyed in one bath with sulphur-
ic acid or with aceiic and
sulphuric acid if Anthracene
Yellow be used, and after
chromed (.Method VIII and IX.
pages 10 and 11) or dyed on
chromed wool
^Method X, page 11).
Dark dyeings produced on
chromed wool are afterchromed
again lightly in order to obtain
best possible fastness to m lling
and alkalies.
The dark green and bluish green tones are frequeiUly
produced on wool dyed in the Indigo vat, such wool being
topped with
Milling Yellow O, Method III, pjge 6;
Anthracene Yellow C or BX,
or with combinations of
Anthracene Chrome Blue F, G
and
Anthracene Yellow BX", C
dyed by the one-bath method wi'h sul-
phuric acid, or, in the case of .Vr-
thracene Vellow C, with acetic and sul-
phuric acid, and afterchromed (^Methods
^'III and IX. pages 10 and 11> or on
chromed wool (Method X, page 11 1.
Daik dyeings produced on chromed wool
are lightly afterchromed in order to
ensure best possible fastness to milKng
and alkalies.
For brightening green shades. Brilliant Milling Green B or
Tetra Cvanole A are used.
— ICO -
D}-eing of Military and other Uniform Cloths.
Dark Green and Bluish Green dyed in the Piece.
The dyestuft's indicated for loose wool are applied in the
same manner for piece-goods, employing Anthracene Yellow
BN instead of C.
For cloths dyed in the piece, too, the loose wool is fre-
quently dyed previously with Indigo, and, after the weaving and
milling, topped in the piece with Milling Yellow O, Anthracene
Yellow BX, or with Anthracene Chrome Blue G, F and An-
thracene Yellow BN as indicated above.
The following are used for shading the piece-goods :
Brilliant Milling Green B
Cyanole Fast Green G
Tetra Cyanole V.
Dark Olive dyed in the Wool or in the Piece.
The same dyestuffs as are used for dark and bluish green
are used likewise for producing dark olive shades, Anthracene
Chrome Brown D or Anthracene Chrome Red A being added.
Green Facings.
The following dyestuffs are employed for dyeing cloths used
for green facings :
Cyanole Fast Green G
shaded with
Tetra Cyanole V or
Milling Yellow O
or
Cyanole Fnst Green G
shaded with
Acid Yellow AT or
China Yellow B
dyed with the addition of Glauber's salt
and sulphuric acid according to ^lethod I,
page 4 ; in the case of combinations with
Milling Yellow, the dyeing must be com-
menced with a small quantity of acetic acid
only, the bath being exhausted by the ad-
dition of sulphuric acid (ilethod III, page 6).
In order to enhance the fastness to water,
it is recommended to treat the dyeings sub-
sequently in a tannic acid soludon according
to the directions on page 82.
Brown dyed in the loose Wool.
Brown is dyed in the loose wool for the production of plain
brown shades as well as for various mixed effects, the following
dyestuffs coming into consideration for this purpose :
Anthracene Chrome Brown
A, D, DWN, S\VX
shaded with
Anthracene Blue Black C
Anthracene Chrome Blue F, BB,G, R
Anthracene Yellow BX, C
Anthracene Chrome Red A
These are dyed almost exclu-
sively according to the one-bath
method with the addition of sul-
phuric acid; or acetic and sulphur-
ic acid, the goods being chrom-
ed subsequently.
(Methods VIII and IX.
pages 9 and 10).
lul
Dyeing of Military and other Uniform Cloths.
Brown dyed in the Piece.
The same dyestuffs are used as for loose wool, the follow-
ing being particularly well adapted owing to their good pene-
trating property :
Anthracene Chrome Brown D,SWN
shaded with
Anthracene Blue Black C
Anthracene Chrome Blue F, BB, G, R
Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Chrome Red A.
The method of dyeing is the
same as indicated before foi
loose wool.
Brown Facings.
In addition to the above-named Anthracene Colours, easily
levelling Acid Colours are used for the dyeing of brown facings,
such as
Lanafuchsine SG, SB
Orange GG, extra
Tropaeoline 00
Acid Yellow AT
Cyanole Fast Green G
with the addition of Glauber's
salt and sulphuric acid accord-
ing to Method I, page 4.
Madder Shades dyed in the loose Wool.
The following are used for madder shades :
Diamine Fast Red F |
shaded with <^y.ed with Glauber's salt and acet'C
, ,, _, acid, and alter chromed accord-
Anthracene Yellow C or j^g to Method Xil, page 13.
Anthracene Blue Black C I
The madder shades obtained with Diamine Fast Red F
are distinguished above all others by their eminent fastness to
alkalies and carbonising, their very much simpler method of
application and the better milling properties of the dyed wool.
Madder Shades dyed in the Piece.
The same dyestuffs are used for piece-goods as for loose
wool; for shading towards Yellow, however, Anthracene Yellow
BN is usually given the preference.
- 102 -
Dyeing of Military and other Uniform Cloths.
Red Facings.
For red facings the following dyestuffs are used :
Scarlet FR
Scarlet F2R
Scarlet F3R
Crystal Scarlet 6R
Lanafuchsine SB
Lanafuchsine SG
Lanafuchsine 6B
Azo Orseille BB
Furthermore, a combination of
dyed with the addition of
Glauber's salt and sulphur-
ic acid according to
Methods I and II, pages
4 and 5.
Brilliant Cochineal or Scarlet oiith natural Cochineal
is used for dyeing red facings as a substitute for cochineal. As
compared with natural cochineal or combinations of cochineal
and flavine this combination offers the advantage of yielding
dyeings of superior fastness to alkalies and light, better levelling
and penetrating properties, as well as facilities in case of any
shading being necessary.
The dyestuffs to be considered in the first instance for
such combinations are :
Brilliant Cochineal 2R, 4R
Scarlet FR, F2R, F3R
Brilliant Scarlet R, 2R, GG,
which may be applied either alone or in combination with each
other according to the shade to be produced. For very yellow
shades of scarlet, Orange R or Acid Yellow AT may be used
for shading, for bluish shades of red Rosazeine B.
The well cleaned goods, which should if necessary be
bleached, are first boiled for V2 hour with
20/0 oxalic acid and
4"/o sulphuric acid
and then rinsed lightly.
Thereupon prepare a fresh, short bath with, say,
4 — 6o/q Cochineal (previously ground and tied up in a
linen bag),
4*^/0 tartar and
2— 3°/o tin crystals,
boil for 10 minutes, then add cold water, finally adding about
10/0 Brilliant Cochineal 2R and
1^/0 Scarlet F2R
— 103 —
Dyeing of Military and other Uniform Cloths.
in solution. The goods are entered into this bath at about
50*' C. (120 deg. F.) which is raised in ^/2 — ^/4 hour to boiling
temperature ; after about ^j^ hour's boiling or so the cochineal
is removed, whereupon the goods are boiled for another 30 — 40
minutes and finally rinsed very thoroughly in soft water.
Somewhat brighter and more yellowish shades are obtained
by using ^j^ — I'^Jo of the so-called "Scarlet Composition" either
straightaway in the dyeing or by adding the same subsequently.
This composition is produced by gradually dissolving 1 part of
granulated tin in 4 parts of hydrochloric acid and 2 parts of
nitric acid, care being taken to keep the solution cool. It is best
to allow the solution to stand for a day or two before use.
For the production of clear shades, prolonged boiling should
be avoided, but another main condition is that only pure water
entirely free from iron should be employed.
In order to remove impurities, the water used for dyeing
is frequently purified with a little chloride of tin, or first of all
with bran ; or, a clean cloth intended to be dyed a dark shade
is allowed to run for 15 — 20 minutes at the boil in the water
employed for the scarlet dyeings. It is best to use vats of wood,
tin or tin-plated copper for dyeing ; copper, brass and iron parts
should in order to avoid spots be avoided or at least be tin-plated.
The goods should be clean and as white as possible ; very
yellowish cloth is bleached before the dyeing with peroxide of
hydrogen or sodium. (For bleaching directions see page 66.)
Hot drying and pressing renders the shade of cochineal dull
and bluish; the cloth is therefore dried at 30 — 40° C. (85—105
deg. F.) and given only a moderately hot pressing.
Crimson Facings.
For the dyeing of crimson facings the following dyestuffs
are well adapted :
Croceine AZ
Brilliant Croceine 7B
9B
Lanafuchsine 6B
shaded if necessary with
Azo Wool Violet 7R
— 10-t
dyed with the addition of
Glauber's salt and sulphuric acid
accoiding to Method II, page 5.
Dyeing of Military and other Uniform Cloth?.
Red Fezzes.
This headgear, as worn in the Orient and by Colonial
armies, is dyed with
Diamine Fast Red F \ according to Method XII,
Diamine^ Scarlet B, 3B | page 13,
or with \ according to Method III,
Wool Red B J page 6;
or, if importance is placed merely on very good fastness to
light, with
Brilliant Croceine 3B ^ tlyed with the addition to
B;ii: „* n^^u: i oo at:> Glauber's salt and fulphuric
rill ant Cochmeal 2R, 4R ^^.^^ according to Method II,
Scarlet FR— F3R J page 5.
Violet Facings
are mostly dyed with
Acid Violet 6BS ..^^ ^^^ ^^^.^-^^ ^^ Glauber's
shaded with | salt and sulphuric acid,
Azo Wool Violet 7R, 4B (according to Methods I and
Lanafuchsine 6B J "' ^^^'' * ""'^ ^•
In certain instances, violet cloths are also dyed with
Methyl Violet R — 6B according to Method XIII, page 14.
Orange and Yellow Facings.
The following dyestuffs are used :
For Go Id :
Milling Yellow O, dyed according to Methods III and XII,
pages 6 and 13.
For Sulphur Yellow:
Combinations of
Acid Yellow AT
with
China Yellow B
dyed with the addition of Glauber'
salt and sulphuric acid, according
to Method I, page 4.
Fast Yellow S
For Ojange :
Milling Yellow O, either ^
, , , . , dyed according to Methods
alone or shaded with , jn g,^^ XII, pages 6 and 13.
Diamine Scarlet B J
— 105 —
Dyeing of Military and other Uniform Cloths.
"Field Grey".
Shades of this description have of late attained very great
importance through the general endeavour to introduce uniforms
for field service which are as inconspicuous as possible, and for
this purpose "Field Grey" has been found exceedingly well adapted.
It offers the additional advantage that owing to its dull shade
it is much less affected by dust and dirt than the old military colours.
"Field Grey" for German Army Trouserings
is produced as follows :
Dye on a pale blue Indigo bottom with
1 °/o Anthracene Chrome Brown D
0,35 °/o Anthracene Acid Brown G
0,08% Anthracene Yellow C;
commence v/ith the addition of 5*^/0 acetic acid at 40 — 50° C.
(105—120 deg. F.), raise to the boil, and after '/i hour's boiling
add 1^2*^/0 sulphuric acid. Cool off after another ^,'9 hour's boiling,
add 1 '^ bichrome,
and work for another ^/2— ^/4 hour at the boil.
The prescribed mixture is obtained by mixing
60 parts of the dyed and
40 paits of raw white wool.
"Field Grey" for German Army Coatings
is produced in the following manner:
Dye on a somewhat lighter Indigo bottom than is required
for the trousering with
0,74 ^'/o Anthracene Chrome Brown D
0,08^/0 Anthracene Acid Brown G
0,1 °o Anthracene Yellow C
1 % bichrome
in same way as indicated above.
The prescribed mixture is obtained by mixing
65 parts of the dyed with
35 parts of raAV white wool.
— 106 —
Dyeing of Military and other Uniform Cloths.
"Field Grey" Shades of Eminent Fastness to Light.
The same shades of "Field Grey" as described before are
obtainable with considerably better fastness to light by using
wool for the mixing which has been dyed greenish with metallic
salts instead of white wool.
This mixing wool stained with metallic salts is absolutely
fast to light, and does not fade if exposed for months or even
years.
The process has been patented by us in all the industrial
countries.
Production of greenish stained Mixing Wool.
Charge the bath with
3°/o bichrome
0,5*^/0 sulphate of copper
5-1 ^lo formic acid 85%,
enter the mixed wool at 60 - 70 « C. (140 — 160 deg. F.), raise
to the boil, and boil for 1 ^ji — 2 hours. When the wool, which
is at first a yellow shade, has assumed a gieen colour and
the liquor is perfectly clear, throw out the wool, rinse, and dry.
'Field Grey" for Trouserings corresponding to the
German Official Pattern.
Dye the loose wool with
4,85*^/0 Anthracene Chrome Blue F |
1,4 "/o Anthracene Yellow C ( according to
1 0/0 Anthracene Chrome Brown D | ^^f^^^ 9"''
3 >~bichrome '
40 parts of this wool are mixed with
60 parts of the greenish mixing wool mentioned above.
— 107 —
Dyeing of Military and other Uniform Cloths.
"Field Grey" Tunics corresponding with the
German Official Pattern.
The loose wool is dyed with
3,2^Iq Anthracene Chrome Blue F 1
1,50/0 Anthracene Yellow C | according to Me-
2, /"/o Anthracene Chrome BroMU D thod VIII, page 9.
3 0/0 bichrome J
For the cloth for tunics, the same mixture of
40 parts of dyed wool to
60 parts of the greenish mixing wool is used.
The dyeings produced in this manner are considerably
superior both in fastness to light and in their behaviour during
carbonising to anything that has been produced hitherto by
other methods.
A four months' exposure of an article of clothing to every
kind of atmospheric influence did not affect the shade in the
very least, whereas materials produced with while wool, exposed
alongside thereof, had suffered very much already at the end
of half that time.
Bjy altering the shade of the dyed xvool or of the inixing
wool dyed with metallic salts, the shades may be varied at will ;
if desired, the drah-coloured mixing wool described for khaki
shades may also be used instead of the greenish mixing wool.
Khaki.
Along with "Field Grey", Khaki shades in particular
have during recent years become of great importance for mili-
tary purposes owing to their being so inconspicuous in the field.
Khaki is sometimes produced as a solid shade, usually however
as a mixture.
The latter again is produced partly by the mixing of one
shade only with white, partly also by mixing two, three or more
different shades with white, a pale yellow -brown, a gold, a dark
brown as well as blue dyeings serving in the first instance as
ground colours.
The British Khaki for blouses and tunics, for instance, is
produced with a gold, a brown and a pale blue mixed with
white, as follows :
53 parts gold 4,5 parts pale blue
n parts brown 25,5 parts Avhite.
— 108 —
Dyeing of Military and other Uniform Cloths.
The dyeings are produced on white wool with the following
quantities of dyestuflf:
A) Gold.
0,4°/o Anthracene Chrome Brown D
0,30/0 Anthracene Chrome Blue F
1 ^Iq Anthracene Yellow C
B)
1 ^/o bichrome
Brow n.
2,1 ^Iq Anthracene Chrome Brown D
1,25^Jq Anthracene Chrome Blue F
Anthi
Ytllow C
dyed accord-
. ing to
? MethoJVlII,
p;|ge 9.
3 oj^ bichrome
Pale Blue.
1
0,
Anthracene
bichrome
Chi
Blue F
In the same manner as described above for "Field Grey",
shades of khaki of considerably superior fastness to light may
be produced by using mixing wool dyed drab shade with
metallic salts instead of white mixing wool.
Production of Drab coloured Mixing Wool.
Charge the dyebath with
3^/q bichrome
0,5°/o sulphate of copper
5—7% formic acid 85%;
enter the washed wool at 60 — 70> C. (140—160 deg. F), raise
to the boil, and boil for 1 '/2 — 2 hours, then cool off, add
2°/o thiosulphate of soda,
and boil for another ^/o hour; then rinse, and dry,
A similar effect can be obtained by boiling the wool with
2*^/0 chrome alum
2*^/0 sulphate of copper
3°/o oxalic acid
and subsequently adding
2^/0 thiosulphate of soda
In order, for instance, to produce British lyhaki for blouses
or tunics with very much better fastness to light, the gold and
brown should be dyed considerably darker, the afore-described
drab-coloured mixing wool being used in place of white wool
in order to attain the shade of the mixture in question.
109
Dyeing of Military and other Uniform Cloths
Dye with the following quantities according to the one-bath
method:
A. Dark Gold.
0,6 ^lo Anthracene Chrome Brown D
0,5 % Anthracene Chrome Blue F
2 ° /o Anthracene Yellow C
2 **/o bichrome
B. Dark B r o w n.
4,5 ^0 Anthracene Chrome Brown D
1,3 ^j,) Anthracene Chrome Blue F
2.25^0 Anthracene Yellow C
:\rethod
VIII,
page 9.
3*^/0 bichrome
C. Pale Blue.
1 **/o Anthracene Chrome Blue F
0,75^0 bichrome
For producing the mixture fast to light, the following quanti-
ties are required :
43 parts dark gold 5 parts pale blue
10 parts dark brown 42 parts drab-coloured mixing wool.
By mixing other grotnid colours with the drah-colonred
mixing wool, tiiimeroits other mixtures inconspicuous iti the field
-may be obtained ivith most excellent properties of fastness.
Khaki dyed in the Piece.
For Khaki dyeings produced in the piece.
combinations of
the following dyestuflfs are used
Anthracene Chrome Brown D
Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Chrome Red A
shaded if necessary with
Anthracene Chrome Blue F or
Anthracene Blue Black C
In some special cases, Diamine Colours are use. I for dyeing
Khaki shades on piece-goods, principally the following:
Diamine Fast Yellow FF | j^.p^ ,,.;,], the addition cf
Diamine Fast Red F Glauber's salt, Method XII,
Diamine Fast Blue G P'^g^ 13-
Dyed by the one-bath method
with the addition of Glauber's
salt and sulphuric acid, and
after-chromed (^Method VIII,
page 9) ; or, dyed on a chrome
mordant (ilethod X, page 11).
110
Dyeing of Wool and Fur Felt Hats.
The Dyeing of Wool and Fur Felt Hats.
Hats are dyed either ready-milled, in the form of soft or
stiff hat bodies, or in the half-milled state as shapes or as
settled felt.
Wooden vats with a false bottom or copper kettles are
used as dye vessels ; the latter may be heated either with direct
or indirect steam, or by a fire underneath the vessel. The
system of paddle wheels has proved of excellent value; by means
of the revolution of the wheel, the working of the hats otherwise
necessary when dyeing in the dye vessel may be dispensed with,
^lore recently the dyeing machines of Mehler and Rey have
been adopted in the hat industry, because they effect a saving
in manual labour and leave the material in its original quality.
Before dyeing, the hats, shapes or felts must be wetted out
well in hot water. If the material contain a large amount of
acid, some ammonia is frequently added to the wetting bath, or
the goods are boiled for 15 to 20 minutes in water and rinsed
again if necessary in fresh water. Soap-milled wool felts should
likewise be thoroughly wetted out before dyeing; if they contain
any soap residue, they should be wetted out with the addition
of some ammonia and finally rinsed in fresh water.
The following groups of dyestuffs are used for dyeing:
1. Acid Colours,
2. Chrome Colours (Anthracene Chrome and Anthracene
Acid Colours),
3. Diamine Colours.
On account of their simple method of application and excellent
penetrating properties, the Acid Colours occupy the first position
in hat dyeing. They are not only of primary importance for the
dyeing of ladies' and children's hats, but are also used generally
for dyeing black and coloured hats for gentlemen's wear.
In point of fastness, dyeings wath Acid Colours as a lule
satisfy all normal requirements. If the demands in respect to
fastness are especially high, or if the hats are subjected to an
alkaline rinsing after dyeing and stiffening, Anthracene Chrome and
Anthracene Acid Colours are employed. The Anthracene Colours
are likewise of importance for the dyeing of stiffened hat bodies.
The Diamine Colours, particularly Diamine Fast Red and
Diamine Scarlet, serve for the production of reds fast to light,
perspiration and alkalies, especially for fez caps.
— 113 — Sell
The Dyeing of Wool and Fur Felt Hats.
Methods of Dyeing Fancy Shades.
I. Method of Dyeing Acid Colours on soft or stiff Wool
and Fur Felt Hats and Shapes.
Charge the bath with
10—20% Glauber's salt crystals
and the requisite dyestuflf, enter the wetted out, and if necessary
previously neutralised, material at 40 — 60° C (105 — 140 deg. F.),
raise in ^/s hour to the boil, and boil for about 30 to 40 minutes
until thorough penetration has been effected. Then add I — 4^/o
sulphuric acid or the corresponding quantity of bisulpbate of soda
in one or two portions whilst turning the felts inside out, and
boil until the bath is completely exhausted, which will be the
case in about 20 to 30 minutes.
Soap-fnilledhats may be entered at once into the bath
charged with
10— 20 0/o Glauber's salt crystals and
1 — 2°/o sulphuric acid,
and are then dyed as described above.
For stiff hats add the requisite quantity of acid (2 to 4 *^/o
sulphuric acid or 5 to 10 "^'/o bisulpbate of soda) at the commence-
ment of the dyeing, and reduce the quantity of Glauber's salt
to about 5^/0. Shapes which do not contain too large an
amount of acid may be dyed direct with the whole amount of
acid necessary.
The boiling should be reduced to the shortest time possible.
II. Method of Dj'eing Alkaline Blue and Alkaline Violet
on soft Wool Felts.
First boil the hats (according to the amount of acid they
contain) with
5—10% borax,
5:0 that the bath may react slightly alkaline to the end; when the
wet felts are cut, the interior shov;ld show a slight alkaline reaction.
Then cool off the bath, add the requisite quantity of dyestuff,
dye for about ^/4 hour at the simmer, rinse thoroughly, and
develop for 20 to 30 minutes in a fresh bath heated to about
50 C. (120 deg. F.) with the addition of
4 — 5°/o sulphuric acid.
For soap-inilled hats charge the dyebath with
3 — 5^/0 borax and the dyestuff,
enter the well wetted goods at about 60*^' C. (140 deg. F.), raise
in 20 minutes to the boil, and continue as above stated.
Copper vessels should be avoided, because copper slightly
dulls the shades.
- 114 —
The Dyeirg of Wool and Fur Felt Hals.
III. Method of Dyeing soft or stiffened Wool and
Fur Felt Hats and Shapes with Anthracene Chrome and
Anthracene Acid Colours.
Ready-milled and stiffened hats are mostly dyed according
to the two-bath method, although good results may likewise be
obtained when employing the one-bath method.
a) One-bath method.
Charge the bath with
10 — -IS^/o Glauber's salt crystals,
1 — 3°/o sulphuric acid (according to the depth of
the shade to be dyed and the acid still
contained in the hats), and
the requisite dyestuff.
Enter the well wetted hat bodies at about 40^ C. (105 deg.
F.), raise in about ^U hour to the boil, and dye boiling for 1 hour.
Then cool the bath off to 60 to 70° C. (140-160 deg. F.), add
the requisite quantity of bichrome (about ^/s of the weight of the
dyestuff, for shapes even for deep shades not more than 1 ^/2 *^/o
bichrome), raise again slowly to the boil, and work for another
30 minutes at the boil.
b) Dyeing on a chrome mordant.
Mordant the felts for 1 — Vk hour at the boil with
2 — 4^/o bichrome 1 — 2°/o bichrome
I'/s— 3% tartar °'' 1— 3> formic acid 85 ^/o,
rinse, and Aye in a fresh bath. Enter lukewarm, raise gradually to
the boil, and boil for 1 — l\/2 hour; in order to facilitate exhaustion
in the case of deep shades, about 3°/o acetic acid are added.
When dyemg Afithracene Chrome Blue, Anthracene Acid B hie,
Anthracejte Chrome Violet and Anthracene Acid Black SR in copper
vessels, first charge the bath, heated to 40—50° C. (105—120 deg.
F.) with ^'2— l°/o sulphocyanide of ammonia (of the weight of
the goods), stir well, and allow to stand for 20 minutes before
adding the dyestuff, Glauber's salt and acid.
IV. Method of Dyeing Diamine Colours (chiefly red for
fez caps).
Charge the bath with
10 — 200/0 Glauber's salt crystals,
5*^/0 acetate of ammonia*,
and the requisite dyestuff.
* Acetate of ammonia is prepared by mixing
10 oz ammonia (0,913 sp. g. or 24:''/o and
26^4 oz acetic acid (8 Tw. or 30»/o).
This solution should be neutral and must not change blue or red
litmus paper to any extent.
— 115 -- 8*eII
The Dyeing of Wool and Fur Felt Hats.
Enter the well neutralised or wetted material at 50 *^ C (120
deg. F.), raise gradually to the boil, and boil for 1 — P/2 hour;
if necessary exhaust the bath by the addition of 2 — 5^/o acetic
acid. If the goods are to be afterchromed, this is done in the
exhausted dyebath by adding 1 — 2 °/o bichrome or 2 — 3 "/o chrom-
ium fluoride, and boiling again for 30 minutes. When chroming
in a fresh bath, 2 — 3^/o acetic acid have to be added first.
Method of Dyeing Black.
I. Method of Dyeing Acid Black on soft Wool and
Fur Felt Hats.
Charge the bath with
5 — 15°/o Glauber's salt crystals
and the requisite dyestuff, enter the well wetted or boiled goods
at 60 « C (140 deg. F.), raise in 20 to 30 minutes to the boil, and
continue boiling about ^{4 — 1 hour until complete penetration has
been attained. In order to exhaust the bath completely, add 1 — 4°/o
sulphuiic acid or the corresponding quantity of bisulphate of soda
in two portions. When dyeing soap-milled hats, start with
10^/0 Glauber's salt crystals and
5''/o acetic acid,
otherwise following the same directions as stated above.
II. Method of Dyeing Acid Black on stiffened Wool
and Fur Felt Hats.
Charge the bath with
l°/o sulphuric acid and the requisite dyestuff.
Enter the well wetted hat bodies at lO*^ C (160 deg. F.), raise
in about 20 minutes to the boil, continue boiling gently for
^/a hour, and then exhaust the bath by the addition of
2 — 4% sulphuric acid,
which are added in several portions, well diluted with water.
III. Method of Dyeing Hat Chrome Black, Anthracene
Chrome and Anthracene Acid Black.
Charge the dyebath for so/l hats with
5 — 1 5*^/0 Glauber's salt crystals and the requisite dyestuff,
and enter the wetted hat bodies at 50- 60 « C (120—140 deg. F.).
Raise in 20 to 30 minutes to the boil, continue boiling for
^/i — 1 hour until the hats are dyed through, then add for wool
felt hats 3 — 4°/o, and for fur felt hats 4— 6^7o sulphuric acid in
several portions, and boil after the last addition for another 20 minutes.
— 116 —
The Dyeing of Wool and Fur Felt Hats.
Then chrome in a fresh liquor with the addition of
2 — 2^/2 *'/o bicrome and
2*^/0 hydrochloric acid
for 30 — 40 minutes gently boihng. A rinsing of the hat bodies
before chroming is not necessary.
In the case of soap-milled ivool felts, add besides 10*^/©
Glauber's salt ^_^,^^ ^^^^.^ ^^.^^
or for Anthracene Acid Black SR
1 — 2 % sulphuric acid,
proceeding otherwise as stated above.
When using Anthracene Chrome Black F, FE or combin-
ations of these brands, it is necessary to first correct the bath,
according to the hardness of the water, with 5 — 10 oz oxalate
of ammonia* per 100 gallons liquor, stir well, and then add
the dyestufT, Glauber's salt and acid.
When dyeing Anthracene Acid Black SR in copper vessels, the
bath is first charged with ^2 — 1 "^/o suiphocyanide of ammonia (of
the weight of the goods), and, after stirring, allowed to stand for
20 minutes before adding Glauber's salt, acid and the dyestuflf.
In the case of stiffened hats, start the dyeing straightaway
with the addition of 1— 2°/o sulphuric acid, proceeding otherwise
as afore-stated,
IV. Method of Dyeing Naphtyl Blue Black in
Combination with Logwood.
ISIordant the hats with
3*^/0 bichrome
2*^/0 sulphate of copper
2°/o oxalic acid
for 1 — P/4 hour at the simmer, rinse lightly, and dye in a fresh
bath with
5-6% Naphtyl Blue Black N
1/2 7.. Indian Yellow G
5 — 8^0 Logwood extract (solid)
1 — 2*^/0 oxalic acid (according to the hardness of the water).
Enter the mordanted bodies at about 80*^ C (175 deg. F.), raise
at once to the boil, and dye for about 1 ^\^ hour gently boiling.
* Oxalate of ammonia, commercially pure, cari~ be bought or made
as follows :
For 100 gallons dye liquor, dissolve
3 — 9 oz oxalic acid in
1 — 3 quarts hot water,
and neutralise this solution by adding about 0^4 — 10 oz ammonia 0,91'2 sp. gr.
— 117 —
Dyestuffs for Grey, Mode and
(Grey, beige, drab, beauer, pale nutria, monlow,
(On soft and stiffened Ladies' and Gentlemen's
Cheapest method of production Of better fastness to light
Combinations of
Indian Yellow FF, G, R
Tropaeoline 00, O
Orange IF, extra, IV
Azo Orseille BB, BE
(for pale moJe shades)
Lanafuchsine SG, SB
(for full shades)
Blue PC (Xo 9623)
Cyauole AB, BB
Fast Acid Green BN
Method of dy
The following dyes tuffs serve
Combinations of
*Fast Yellow S
*Acid Yellow AT
Tropaeoline 00, O
Orange GG*, II, extra, IV
Azo Orseille BE, BB
(for pale mode shades)
Lanafuchsine SG*, SB
1 (for full shades)
Cyanole Green 6G, B
Cyanole Fast Green G*
Tetra Cyanole V
Cyanole extra
The dyestuffs marked with an aster-
isk [*) are distinguished for their spe-
cial fastness to light,
eing page 114.
for subsequent shading in the
boiling bath:
Fast Yellow S
Orange GG
Azo Orseille BB
Tetra Cyanole V
Cyanole extra
Cyanole Green B, 6G
Cyanole Fast Green G.
The following colours serve for dyeing pale shades fast to milling
on shapes or settled felts:
For light beige, pale drab, etc.
Orange GG
Fast Yellow S
shaded with
Azo Orseille BB
Cyanole extra
in combination with ochre, graphite or talc
For silver grey and light grey
Formvl Violet S4B— lOB
Acid Violet 6BS
I Brilliant Milling Blue B
118
BroLun Shades on Hat Felts.
Hauana, tobacco, maroon, coffee, loutre, etc.
Hats, Hat Bodies, Shapes, Wool and Fur Felts.
Exceedingly fast to light
Special properties of fastness
Combinations of
Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Acid Brown G
Anthracene Chrome Brown D,
DW, DWxV, SWN
Anthracene Chrome Red A
Anthracene Blue Black C
Anthracene Chrome Blue G, F,
BB, R
Method of Dyeing page 115.
The fol lowing serve for subse-
quent shading:
For goods which are not stiffened :
Fast Yellow S
Orange GG
Azo Orseille BB
Tetra Cyanole V
Cyanole extra
Cyanole Fast Green G
which may be added straightaway to
the boiling bath.
For goods which are stiffened after
dyeing :
The above-mentioned Anthracene
Colours. The bath must be cooled
off somewhat before the dyestuffs are
added.
The following dyestuffs serve
Dyestuffs fast to steaming:
All the dyestuffs mentioned, with
the exception of
Cyanole BB,
the shade of which is turned somewhat
greener on severe steaming.
Dyestuffs withstan din g the
alkaline stiffening and rinsing:
Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Acid Brown G
Anthracene Chrome Brown,
all brands
Anthracene Chrome Red A
Anthracene Blue Black C
Anthracene Chrome Blue,
all brands
Formyl Violet S4B
Brilliant Milling Blue B.
Dyestuffswithstanding the acid
milling (dyeings on shapes).
All the dyestuffs mentioned with-
stand the acid milling quite well.
The hat bodies must be very tho-
roughly rinsed after milling in order
to remove the sulphuric acid contained
in the goods ; this is especially neces-
sary in the case of
Tropaeoiine 00 and Orange IV.
for dyeing pale shades fast to
millingonshapesoronsettled felts:
For light beige, drab, etc. ^
The above-mentioned Anthracene Colours.
For light grey:
Anthracene Blue Black C
Anthracene Chrome Blue G, F
shaded with
Formyl Violet S4B— lOB
Brilliant Milling Blue B
in combination with
ochre,
graphite or
talc.
— 119 —
Dyestuffs for Green and
(On Ladies' and Gentlemen's soft and stiff Hats.
Cheapest method of production , Of better fastness to light
Acid Green extra cone.
Fast Acid Green BX
Blue PC (No. 9623)
in combination with
Indian Yellow FF, G
Tropaeoline OO, O
Orange IV, extra
Lanafuchsine SG
Azo Orseille BE, BB
Azo Wool Blue SE
(for saddening).
For bright greens:
Acid Green extra cone, extra
cone. B, 5G
Fast Acid Green BN
shaded with
Xaphtol Yellow S
Orange extra
Tetra Cyanole V.
Cyanole Green B, 6G
Cyanole Fast Green G
in combination with
Acid Yellow AT
Fast Yellow S
Tropaeoline OO, O
Orange IV, IF, extra
Cyanole AB, extra
Lanafuchsine SG
Azo Orseille BB, BE.
For shades exceedingly fast to
light:
Xaphtol Green B
Xaphtol Dark Green G
shaded with
Acid Yellow AT
Orange GG
Lanafuchsine SG.
Method of d3-eing page 114.
The following are suitable for subsequent shading in the
boiling bath:
Fast Yellow S
Orange GG
Azo Orseille BB
Cyanole Green B, 6G
Cyanole Fast Green G
Tetra Cyanole V
Cvanole extra.
Uv
Oliue Shades on Hat Felts.
Hat Bodies and Shapes, Wool and Fur Felts.
Exceedingly fast to light
Special properties of fastness
Combinations of
Anthracene Chrome Bhie G,
F, BB
Anthracene Bhie Black C
Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Acid Brown G
Anthracene Chrome Brown D,
SWN
Anthracene Chrome Red A
shaded with
Brilliant Milling Green B
Cyanole Fast Green G
Method of dyeing page 115.
The following serve for
subsequent shading;
For goods which are not stiffened:
Fast Yellow S
Orange GG
Azo Orseille BB
Cyanole Fast Green G
Tetra Cyanole Y.
These dyestuffs may be added
straightaway to the boiling bath.
For goods to be stiffened:
The Anthracene Colours mentioned
above; the bath must be cooled off
somewhat before the dyestuffs are
added. Further,
Brilliant Milling Green B
Cyanole Fast Green G.
Dyestuffs fast to steaming:
All the dj-estuffs mentioned with
the exception of Naphtol Green B, the
shade of which turns slightly paler and
browner on severe steaming.
Dyestuffs withstanding the
alkaline stiffening and rinsing:
Anthracene Chrome Blue,
all brands
Anthracene Blue Black C
Anthracene Yellow BN
Anthracene Acid Brown G
Anthracene Chrome Brown,
all brands
Anthracene Chrome Red A.
Brilliant Milling Green B
or
Cyanole Fast Green G
prove also sufficient for most
purposes.
Dyestuffswithstandingtheacid
milling (dyeings on shapes):
All the dyestuffs mentioned.
The hat bodies must be rinsed
thoroughly after milling in order to
remove the sulphuric acid ; this is
especially necessary when using Tro-
paeoline OO and Orange IV.
— 121
Dyesfuffs for Vellou;, Orange, Pink, Red,
(On soft and stiffened Ladies' and Childen's Hats,
Cheapest method of production
Of uery good fastness to light
For yellow and orange:
Naphtol Yellow S
Indian Yellow G, R
Orange II.
Suitable shading products :
Lanafuchsine SG
Azo Oi-seiUe BB
Rosazeine B.
For pink :
Eosine 3G, GGF, L, BN
Eosine Scarlet B
Eiythrosine yellow shade, D, B,
extra N
Phloxine S
Rose Bengale extra X.
For r e d :
Brilliant Scarlet, all brands
Crystal Scarlet 6R
Scarlet FR, F2R, F3R, EC
Naphtol Red EB
Rocelline
Lanafuchsine SG, SB.
For particularly brilliant
light reds:
Combinations of
Rosazeine B, 13
Orange extra
Naphtol Yellow S.
^lethod of dyeing page 114.
F o r y e 1 1 o w and orange:
Acid Yellow AT
Fast Yellow S
Indian Yellow FF
Tropaeoline O, 00, G
Orange II, extra, R, GG.
For very bright pinks:
Rosazeine B, 13
shaded with
Naphtol Yellow S.
For less bright shades of pink:
Lanafuchsine SG, SB
shaded with
Naphtol Yellow S.
For Red:
Croceine AZ
Brilliant Croceine, all brands
Azo Rubine A
Brilliant Cochineal RR, 4R
Method of dyeing page 114.
Dyestuffs of very good fastness
to light and withstanding the
alkaline stiff ening and rinsing:
Diamine Scarlet B, 3B
Diamine Fast Red F
shaded with
Diamine Fast Yellow FF
Diamine Yellow CP.
Dyestuffs of still better fastiu —
to alkalies:
Diamine Fast Red F, chromed.
shaded with
Anthracene Yellow BX.
;Method of dyeing page 115.
Claret^ Prune and Violet Shades on Hat Feits.
Caps, Fezzes, Hat Bodies and Shapes, Wool and Fur Felts.)
Cheapest method of production
Of uery good fastness to light
For claret and p^rune:
For claret and prune:
Azo Rubine A
Naphtol Red C
Brilliant Croceine 5B, 6B, 7B, 9B
Amaranth
Croceine AZ
Azo Red A
Lanafuchsine SB.
Brilliant Orseille C
Suitable saddening products :
Lanafuchsine SB
Azo Wool Violet 7R, 4B
Azo Orseille BB
Cyanole Fast Green G.
saddened with
Method of dyeing see page lU.
Cyanole extra
Cyanole Green 6G, B
Dyestuffs of very good fastness
to light and withstanding the
Azo Wool Blue SE.
alkaline stiffening and rinsing:
Dianaine Bordeaux S,
For Violet:
Method of dyeing page 115;
further:
Diamine Fast Red F, chromed,
Acid Violet 6BS, 6BC, 4RS.
and shaded with
Anthracene Chrome Violet B
Anthracene Chrome Red A,
Method of dyeing page 114.
Method of dyeing see page 115;
or, combinations of
Anthracene Chrome Red A
Anthracene Chrome Violet B
Anthracene Chrome Blue F,
FR, R
Method of d3'eing see page 115.
For Violet:
Azo Wool Violet 7R, 4B
Method of dyeing see page 114.
Dyestuffs withstanding alka-
line stiffening and rinsing,
Anthracene Chrome Violet B
shaded with
Formyl Violet S4B.
Method of dyeing see page 115.
123
Dyestuffs for Blue
(On soft and stiffened Ladies' and Gentlemen's
Cheapest method of production
Of better fastness to light
For bright blues:
For bright blues:
Cyanole BB
Alkaline Blue, all brands
Brilliant Milling Blue B
shaded with
Indigo Blue N
Alkaline Violet CA, C
shaded with
Method of dyeing see page 114;
Acid Violet 6BS.
further :
Cyanole FF, extra, AB
For navy and dark blues:
Tetra Cyanole V, SF, extra
Indigo Blue SGN
Blue PC (No 9623)
shaded with
Acid Violet 6BS.
Acid Green extra cone.
Fast Acid Green B, BN
in combination with
Azo Wool Violet 7R, 4B
Acid Violet 6BS
Lanafuchsine SB, 6B
Orange II, extra.
For navy and dark blues:
Azo Wool Blue SE
Azo Navy Blue B, 3 B
Brilliant Naphtol Blue B, 4B, R
Acid Navy Blue A
shaded with
Azo Wool Violet 4B
Acid Violet 6BS
Orange GG, II, extra
Method of dyeing see page 114.
(for saddening)
Of still better fastnessto light
especially for dark blue on fur
felts:
Azo ]Merino Biue, 3B, G
Naphtol Blue G
Method of dyeing see page 114.
The following especially easily lev
quent shading in tlae boiling bath:
elling dyestuflFs may be used for subse-
Cyanole, all brands
Acid Violet 6 BS
Tetra Cyanole, all brands
Azo Orseille BB
Indigo Blue N
Orange GG.
124
Shades on Hat Felis.
Hots, Hat Bodies and Shapes, Wool and Fur Felts.
Exceedingly fast to light
Special properties of fastness
Anthracene Chrome Bhie
F, FR, G, BB, B, R
RRW extra, BW extra
Anthracene Acid Bkie
BBN, BB, 3B.
Bright blues are shaded with
BrilHant Milling Blue B
Formyl Violet S4B
Brilliant Milling Green B
Anthracene Acid Blue RR.
Very deep dark blues are shaded
with
Anthracene Acid Black DSF
(for dyeings produced on a chrome
mordant)
Anthracene Chrome Black 5B
(for one-bath dyeinj^s.)
Method of dyeing see page 115.
Anthracene Chrome Blue RRW
extra, BW extra and Anthracene Acid
Blue 2R are exclusively dyed on
a chrome mordant..
The following dyestuffs serve
for subsequent shading:
For goods which are not stiffened:
Cyanole extra
Tetra Cyanole V
Acid Violet 6BS
Azo Orseille BB
Orange GG.
These dyestuffs may be added
straight to the boiling bath.
For goods which are stiffened after
dyeing:
The Anthracene Colours enumerated
above, and Formyl Violet S4B ; the
bath must be cooled off before adding
the dyestuffs. Further, Brilliant Milling
Blue B and Brilliant Milling Green B.
Dyestuffs fast to steaming:
All the dyestuffs mentioned, with
the exception of
Cyanole BB
Anthracene Acid Black DSF,
the shade of which is somewhat
changed on severe steaming.
Dyestuffs withstanding the
alkaline stiffening and rinsing:
Anthracene Chrome Blue,
all brands
Anthracene Acid Blue, all brands
Anthracene Chrome Black 5B
Anthracene Acid Black DSF
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Formyl Violet S4B.
For most purposes,
Brilliant Milling Green
is also sufficient.
Dyestuffs withstanding the acid
milling (for dyeings on shapes:
All these dyestuffs withstand the
acid milling very well.
The hat bodies must be linsed very
thoroughly after the milling in order
to remove the sulphuric acid.
125 -
Dyestuffs for Black
Blacks of uery good fastness to light Blacks of uery good fastness both to
and normal fastness to steaming light and steaming
(for soft fur an I luool hat bodies) (for soft fur and ujool hat bodies)
For bluish blacks:
Naphtylamine Black 6B
Hat Black 3BV.
For deep bluish blacks:
Naphtylamine Black 4B
Hat Black BB
Hat Black BBV, HTV extra.
For cheap deep blacks:
Naphtvlamine Black X2B,
X3B, 00.
In addition to Hat Black, a very
favourite combination for fur hats is
that of
Naphtylamine Black 4B
Naphtol Blue Black
with a little
Indian Yellow G.
For bluish blacks:
Naphtylamine Black IBS
Hat Black 5BV, F
Naphtylamine Blue Black 5B.
For deep blui sh blacks:
Hat Black H extra, FC
(especially for fur felt hats).
Hat Black MC (for wool felt hats)
Naphtylamine Black S, TJ, T
Naphtylamine Black SGG
(for greenish blacks)
Naphtylamine Blue Black B.
For cheap deep blacks:
Naphtylamine Black SS2B,
SS3B, SOO.
For bright-finished hats, the
following arc principally used:
For bluish black :
Naphtol Black 6B, SB
Azo Merino Black 8B, 6 B, 6BE;
and for deep black :
Naphtol Black 2 B, B, SG
Azo Merino Black B, BE.
For method of dyeing see page 116.
Suitable dyestuffs for shading:
Indian Yellow G, FF
Acid Violet 6BS
Tetra Cyanole V
Cyanole Green B, 6G
Brilliant JNIillincr Green B
Tropaeoline 00, O
Orange II, extra
Naphtol Green B
Naphtol Dark Green G,
120
on Hat Felts.
Blacks of usry good fastness to light
and steaming (for stiff fur and luooI
hat bodies)
Blacks of uery good fastness to light,
steaming, alkalies and alkaline rinsing
(for soft hair and lucoI hat bodes and
such as are stiffened after dyeing)
For blue-blacks:
Hat Black 5BV, F
Naphtylamine Black 6B
Naphtylamine Blue Biack 5B.
For deep bluish blacks:
Hat Black H extra, HV extra,
FC, MC
Naphtylamine Blue Black B
for method of dyeing see page 116.
For hats subjected to an alka-
line rinsing after dyeing:
Anthracene Chrome Black 5B
(for bluish blacks)
Hat Chrome Black B, BT
Anthracene Chrome Black F
Anthracene Acid Black ST, DNG
Anthracene Acid Black DSF,
DSFB, DSN;
for method of dj-eing see pages 116
and 117.
For specially cheap blacks:
Naphtyl Blue Black N
in combinaticn with
Logwood,
dyed on a mordant of bichrome,
bluestone and oxalic acid;
for method of dyeing see page 117.
Suitable dyestuffs forshading:
For acid blacks (Hat Blacks):
Those stated in columns 1 and 2 ;
for chrome black:
Those stated in column 4.
For blue -blacks:
Anthracene Chrome Black 5B.
For deep blue-blacks:
Anthracene Chrome Black F
Hat Chrome Black B, BT
Anthracene Acid Black DNG
in combination if necessary with
Anthracene Chrome Black 5B.
For cheap deep blacks.
Anthracene Acid Black DSF,
DSFB, DSN.
For cheap blacks, particularly
on wool hat bodies:
Anthracene Acid Black SR ;
for method of dyeing see pages 116
and 117.
Suitable dyestuffs forshading:
Formy] Violet S4B
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Brilliant Milling Green B
Anthracene Chrome Blue F,
FR, B
Anthracene Yellow BN
Brilliant Milhng Green B.
— 127 —
The Dyeing of Loose Wool and Hair for
Mixture Felts. Melange Hats.
Ajtthracene Chrome and Anthracene Acid Colojirs are used
in the first place for the dyeing of loose wool and hair, accord-
ing to the dyeing instructions and in the combinations men-
tioned on pages 17 — 32 of the chapter on '-The Dyeing of
Loose Wool".
The dyeings so obtained answer every requirement made
in the hat industry with respect to fastness and not affecting the
material; they withstand alkaline as well as acid milling per-
fectly, and are exceedingly fast to light, hot pressing, steaming,
carbonising and perspiration.
For Blacks, the Anthracene Chrome Black F\ FE, P extra
and PFB extra in particular have been adopted quite generally.
N^aphty lamine Black 635 J is also very serviceable, especially
for dyeing loose hair in an open kettle, being dyed in a
sulphuric acid bath (Method II, page 5) without any subsequent
treatment.
Our new patented process described on pages 32 and 106 — 1 10
is very well suited for the production of mixture effects of
specially good fastness to light.
In addition to the Anthracene Colours, some of the Acid
Colours fast to milling, such as Milling Yelloic, Milliftg Red,
Formyl Violet, Formyl Blue, Brilliant Milling Blue, Alkaline
Blue and Brilliant Milling Green, are also used to advantage
for the production of bright fancy shades, and for Reds, Diajyiine
Fast Red and Diamine Scarlet. These dyestuffs likewise resist
acid milling, particularly in pale and medium shades; Milling
Yellow and Diamine Fast Red are perfectly satisfactory in this
respect even in dark shades.
Loose hair is dyed like loose wool, considerably more dye-
stuff being however required for hair than for wool.
- 128 —
The Dyeing of Wool and Fur Felt Hats.
It is an advantage to dye hair in machines, by which method
the material is best preserved and felting avoided. When dyeing
in open kettles, any immoderate handling or boilmg should be
carefully avoided, because loose hair is considerably more apt to
felt than loose wool.
In order to remove any traces of mercury mordant, it is
essential that the hair be soaked well in hot water before dyeing.
When after-chroming Anthracene Colours, the liquor must
be cooled off well before adding the bichrome, being then brought
only gradually to the boil again in order to make the chroming
liquor penetrate the material thoroughly.
The Production of Mixture Felts by Dyeing
Hat Bodies Ready-milled.
Mixture effects similar to those produced by mixing material
dyed in the loose state may be obtained by dyeing milled hat
bodies.
For this purpose the undyed wool is mixed with white
vegetable fibres (China-grass, cotton, etc.), milled as customary,
and dyed in the form of bodies with dyestuflfs which leave the
vegetable fibres undyed.
The dyestufTs best suited for this article are the following:
Fast Yellow S Azo Rubine A
Acid Yellow AT Acid Violet 6BS, 4RS
Naphtol Yellow S Formyl Violet, all brands
Orange GG Azo Wool Violet 7R, 4B
Azo Orseille BB, BE Cyanole, all brands
Lanafuchsine 6B Tetra Cyanole, all brands
Acid Magenta Brilliant Milling Blue B
Brilliant Scarlet, all brands Indigo Blue N, SGN
Crystal Scarlet 6R Blue PC (Np 9623)
Scarlet FR, F2R, F3R Azo Wool Blue SE
Naphtol Red C, EB Azo Navy Blue B, SB
Amaranth Acid Navy Blue A
Azo Red A Azo Merino Blue G, 3B
— 129 — 9eii
The Dyeing of Wool and Fur Felt Hats.
Cj-anole Green B, 6G Naphtylamine Black EFF \
Cyanole Fast Green G Naphtylamine Black S | for
Fast Acid Green BN, B Naphtylamine Blue Black black.
Acid Gl'een, all brands 5 B, B J
The dyeing is carried out as described on pages 114 and 116.
In order to ensure as clear effects as possible, attention must be
paid to a thorough exhaustion of the dyebaths. The goods must
be rinsed very thoroughly after dyeing in order to remove any
sulphuric acid still present.
Note: F"or coloured effects, either vegetable fibres may be
used which have been previously dyed fast to acids, or the fibres
are dyed with suitable Diamine Colours in a fresh, cold bath
subsequently to dyeing the hats with Acid Colours.
Print and Discharge Effects on Hat Felts.
a) Producing Effects by the Application of Print
Paste.
This is carried out as follows :
The bodies, dyed to any given shade, are painted over
with a dark print paste, dried, steamed, and washed.
The parts painted in this manner show out as dark patterns
or mixture effects on the lighter ground. The same mixture
effects may be obtained in a like manner on both sides of the
hats by applying the print paste accordingly.
This style may also be varied, for instance by painting both
sides of the felts with print pastes of different colours, or uni-
formly painting only one side of the bodies, dyed previously a
given shade, with a darker print paste than the ground colour,
and after drying brushing one or both sides with a differently
coloured print paste.
bj Producing Discharge Effects by Discharging
with Hyraldite W.
For the production of white or light-coloured effects on
a dark ground, Hyraldite discharges are resorted to, containing,
according to requirement, an admixture of dyestuffs suitable for
producing coloured discharge effects ; such discharges are brushed
on to the goods.
— 130 —
Dyeing of Wool and Fur Felt Hats.
The following dyestuflfs, which are easily dischargeable with
Hyraldite, may be used for dyeing the bodies:
Acid Yellow AT Naphtol Red C
Fast Yellow S Acid Violet 4RS
Orange extra, II, R, GG Cyanole FF, extra (for pale blue)
Lanafuchsine SG Azo Wool Blue C
Scarlet FR, F2R, F3R Naphtylamine Black EFF.
Brilliant Scarlet GG— 3R
Dye in the manner customary for Acid Colours with the
addition of Glauber's salt, adding sulphuric acid subsequently as
described on pages 114 and 116.
Particulars for printing and discharging will be found on
pages 315 to 330 of our book on "Wool Dyeing", or in Volume IV
of this book (Printing).
131 —
Silk Dyeing.
The Dyeing of Silk.
Silk is principally dyed in hank form, more seldom in
the piece, and then only in light qualities of goods. The
dyestuffs enumerated in the following tables and the instructions
for application apply equally for silk yarn and piece-goods.
The following groups of dyestuffs come in the first place
into consideration for the dyeing of silk:
Acid Colours answer the normal requirements in point of
fastness, and are generally used the most;
Diamine Colours are used in particular for the production
of dyeings fast to water, washing and milling on some special
articles ;
Basic Colours serve chiefly for producing bright shades
requiring a full bloom, but no particular fastness; they are
used preferably for the dyeing of silk weighted with tin;
Immedial Colours are used exclusively for producing dyeings
fast to washing and boiling on chappe silk, and silk for sewing
and embroidery.
— 135
1. Dyestuffs for Silk ansLuering
Acid Colours
Basic Colours
Pink, Red
and Claret.
*Eosine 3G, GGF, L, BN
"Irisamine G
*Eosine Scarlet B
*Safranine GGS, S No 150
*Er>^throsine B, D, extra N
"Diamond Magenta la
*Rose Bengal e extra N
"Magenta yellow shade
*Phloxine S
* Cerise la
*Rosazeine B
"Russian Red B, G.
^^Brilliant Croceine, all brands
**Croceine AZ
Brilliant Scarlet, all brands
^Scarlet EC
Brilliant Cochineal 2R, 4R
Roccelline
1
*Naphtol Red EB
*Lanafuchsine SG, SB, 6B
**Azo Rubine A
Azo Red A
Azo Orseille BB
Brilliant Orseille C
"Amaranth B
*Wool Red B.
Blue, Dark B
lue and Grej.
*Cyanole extra, FF, AB, C, A'
"Methylene Blue BB
*Tetra Cyanole A, SF, V
"New Methylene Blue N, GG,
•Formyl Blue B
GB, R, 3R
*Brilliant Willing Blue B
"Methylmdone B, R
Indigo Blue SGN
"Indazine jSI
"Methyl Blue for silk
*Naphtindone BB
"Pure Soluble Blue
"Blue for Silk DA (for shading log-
Blue BS, FS, RS, RRS
wood black).
"Victoria Blue B
""Solid Blue 6G, R, 3R
"Induline B, 2B, 3B
•Aniline Grey B, R
♦Silver Grey N
=^Alkaline Blue, all brands.
Fcir method of dj'cing
see pages 140 and Ul.
136 —
normal Requirements for
Fastness.
Acid Colours
Basic Colours
Yellow, Orange a n d B r o w n.
*Naphtol Yellow S '
*Thioflavine T, TCN
*China Yellow B
♦Diamond Phosphine GG, R
*Acid Yellow AT
*Paraphosphine G, R
*Indian Yellow G, FF, R
^'Tannin Orange R
**Milling Yellow O
*Chrysoidine AG, crystals
*Orange II, EN, R, IV
*Bismarck Brown GG, FFG, EE.
**Orange GG
*Acid Brown D.
Green and Violet.
*Acid Green, all brands
♦Brilliant Green crystals extra
♦Fast Acid Green BN
♦Solid Green crystals
*Cyanole Green B, 6G
*Malachite Green cone.
*Cyanole Fast Green G
♦Silk Green MS (for shading log-
*Brilliant Milling Green B
wood black)
Naphtol Green B
♦Methyl Violet 6B-4R
Naphtol Dark Green G
♦Crystal Violet lOB
Azo Wool Violet 7R, 4B
♦Tannin Heliotrope.
*Formyl Violet S4B, 5B, 6B,
lOB
*Acid Violet 6BS, 4RS
*Alkaline Violet C.
Black. 1
Naphtylamine Black 4B, 6B, D,
X2B, X3B,' R
Naphtyl Blue Black *FBB, N
**Naphtol Blue Black
*Neutral AVool Black B, G
Gloria Black B, I, II
*Alphanol Black B, BG, R
The dyestuffs marked with an asterisk (*) are especially well
suited for the dyeing of silk weighted with tin; those marked with
two asterisks ('=*) yield on this material dyeings of good fastness to light.
For method of dyeing see pages 140 and 141.
137
2. Dyestuffs for Silk of good Fastness
Diamine Colours.
Yellow and Orange.
*Thioflavine S
'^*Diamine Fast Yellow B, FF, M
Diamine Fast Yellow A,
coupled with Xitrazol C
**Diamine Yellow CP
*Dianiine Orange F
*Diamine Orange G, D
*Primuline, developed with Resorcine.
Pink, Red and Claret.
**Diamine Rose GD, BD, BG
*Direct Rose T
**Diamine Scarlet B, 3B
^Diamine Piirpurine B, 3B, 6B
**Diamine Fast Red F, attertreat-
ed if necessary with chromium
fluoride or bichrome
**Diamine Bordeaux S
^Diamine Brilliant Bordeaux R
Diamine Azo Scarlet i developed
B, R
Primuline
with
Beta Xaph-
tol
Brown.
aftertreated
if necessary
.vith chrome
and copper
**Diamine Brown 3G,'
R, B, M
Oxy Diamine Brown
3GX
**Diamineral Brown
Gj
* Diamine Fast Brown G, R
Diamine Xitrazol Brown RD,
BD, T
coupled with Xitrazol C.
*Diamine Green B, CL
Diamine Green G, if necessary
aftertreated with chromium fluoride
^Diamine Dark Green X
**Diamine Aaolet X^, BB
*Oxy Diamine Alolet B, R, G.
Blue and Grey.
"^■'Diamine Sky Blue
Diamine Sky Blue FF I direct or
Diamine Blue R\V ) coppered.
^Diamine Blue BX, 2B, 3B, 3R
**Diamine Fast Blue G, FFB, FFG
^Diamine Steel Blue L
Diaminogene Blue GG
BB, XB, XA, 3RX
Diaminogene Skv
Bhie X
Diamine Azo Blue R,
RR)
*Diamine Dark Blue B
^Diamine Grey G
**Diaminogene extra
^Diaminogene B, extral developed
Diamine Black BH ) f^/.^
developed
with
Beta
Xnphtol
Black.
Diamine Black
Diaminogene B
I developed
BH I with Pheny-
I lene Diamine
I or Resorcine.
^Oxy Diamine Black FFC, JEI,
JB, JW.
For method of dyeing see page 141.
— 138
to Water, Washing and Milling.
Acid Colours.
*Milling Yellow O
Anthracene Yellow BN,
C, GG
Anthracene Acid Brown
G, R, N, B
Anthracene Chrome Brown
DWNJ
*Rosazeine B
*Victoria Blue B.
"Brilliant Milling Blue B
*Formyl Blue B
*Alkaline Blue, all brands
*Formyl Violet S4H
*Brilliant Milling Green B
Napthyl Blue Black N, **FBB
Alphanol Black B, BG, R
Naphtylamine Black D
Anthracite Black B,
aftertreated with chromium fluoride.
For method of dyeing see page 140.
All the dyestuffs mentioned possess comparatively speaking
very good fastness to water, which may generally be still further
improved by an aftertreatment with tannin and antimony. The
Basic Coloiirs enumerated on pages 136 and 137 may likewise be
used for producing dyeings fast to water if subjected to the same
aftertreatment with tannin and antimony.
Dyeings of the products marked with an asterisk (*) are
by such treatment rendered fast to 7mshing and milling ; similarly
good in this respect may be designated the dyeings fixed by an
aftertreatment tvith metallic salts, by diazotising and developing or
by coupling with Nitrazol.
The products marked with two asterisks (**) are also suited
for the dyeing of silk weighted with tin.
The following withstand de-gnmming in a boiling soap
solution :
Primuline, developed with Beta Naphtol,
Diamine Fast Yellow A, coupled with Nitrazol C,
Formyl Violet S4B \ ^^^^^^^ ^j^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^ antimony.
Victoria Blue B 1
139 —
The Dyeing of Silk.
3. Immedial Colours for Silk.
The following products are especially well suited for the
production of dyeings fast to washing, milling and boiling:
Immedial Yellow GG, D Immedial Indone 3B cone, B
Immedial Cutch O, BG cone, BBF cone, BF cone,
Immedial Brown BR R cone, RR cone
Immedial Dark Brown D cone Immedial Indogene GCL cone
Immedial Bordeaux G cone. Immedial GreenGGextra,BB extra
Immedial Maroon B cone Immedial Brilliant Green G extra
Immedial Violet C Immedial Deep Green G
Immedial Sky Blue paste Immedial Olive 3G
and powder cone. Immedial Black FF extra, AZ,
For Method of Dyeing see page 141. BZ COnC.
Directions for Dyeing.
Method of Dyeing Acid Colours.
These are generally dyed in boiled-ofF liquor* slightly aci-
dulated with sitlphziric acid. Enter the goods at 40 — 50*' C.
(105 — 120 deg. F.), raise to the boil, and allow to cool off a
little ; any excess of acid should be avoided in order to ensure
good levelling. Rinse, after dyeing, and brighten with acetic,
tartaric, formic or sulphuric acid.
The following products are best dyed with the addition
of acetic acid :
Eosine 3G, GGF, L, BX Anthracene Acid BrownG,R,N,B
Eosine Scarlet B Anthracene Chrome Brown DWN
Erythrosine B, D, extra N Naphtylamine Black 4B, 6B, D,
Rose Bengale extra N X2B, X3B, R
Phloxine S Naphtyl Blue Black X, FBB
Rosazeine B Gloria Black B, I, II
Naphtol Green B Alphanol Black B, BG, R
Anthracene Yellow C, BN, GG Neutral Wool Black B, G.
Dye boiling hot, and only add some sulphuric acid towards
the end of the dyeing operation in order to fully exhaust the
bath. Regarding the aftertreatment of the dyeings see details
on page 142.
* If boiled-off liquor is not available, a verj- useful substitute ma)-
be prepared according to the following directions :
3 lbs soap, 9 oz glue or gelatine, 3 oz olive oil and 3 oz common salt
are well boiled in about 10 gallons water. The solution is applied just like
ordinary boiled-oflf liquor; the killing with acetic or sulphuric acid must
take place very gradually and under constant stirring.
— 140 —
Methods of Dyeing Silk.
Alkaline Bhie and Alkaline Violet are dyed boiling hot in
a fatty soap bath with the addition of some borax, followed by
rinsing, and brightening hot with sulphuric acid.
Method of Dyeing Diamine Colours,
Dye in a neutral boiled-off liquor charged with about 1 °/o
Glauber's salt, and add towards the close of the dyeing operation
3 — 10 "/o acetic acid, according to the depth of shade, to ensure
complete exhaustion of the bath. Enter lukewarm, raise gradually
to the boil, and dye for about 1 hour at that temperature. In
the case of Diaminogene B and Diamine Black BH it is an
advantage to add 1 — 2*^/o sulphuric acid. After dyeing and rinsing,
aftertreat, develop, or couple, as the case may be (pages 142
and 143), and brighten with acetic or tartaric acid.
Method of Dyeing Basic Colours.
Dye in a boiled-off liquor slightly acidulated with acetic
acid; enter lukewarm, heat to 70— 80° C. (160—175 deg. F.), and
then allow to cool off a little; an excess of acetic acid facilitates
the levelling.
After dyeing, rinse, and brighten slightly with acetic or
tartaric acid.
Basic Colours are also frequently dyed in pale shades in a
fatty soap bath at 30—40° C. (85—105 deg. F.).
Method of Dyeing I m medial Colours.
Dye the boiled-off material in a boiling hot bath containing
a volume of water 20 times the weight of the material to be
dyed and '^\i — 1 lb dyestuff — for blacks 2 — 3 lbs — per 10 gallons
liquor. The dyestuff is boiled for about 10 minutes in a little
water with its own weight of sodium sulphide (Immedial Indogene
GCL cone, and Immedial Indone with double their weight,
Immedial Black FF extra and AZ with ^/ards their weight, of
sodium sulphide and double the quantity of glucose as of sodium
sulphide; add this solution to the hot dyebath charged previously
with P/2 oz soda, 4^/2 oz Turkey-red oil and ^/g — 1 lb Glauber's
salt per 10 gallons liquor. Dye for about 1 hour, best on bent
sticks, squeeze off lightly, rinse, soap, and brighten with acetic acid.
The dyeings are exceedingly fast to icas/ung- and 7nilling;
if they are required to withstand a subsequent hoiling-off, it is
advisable to aftertreat them in a fresh boiling hot bath with
— 141 —
The Dyeing of Silk.
2°/o bichrome
2*^/0 sulphate of copper
5*';'o acetic acid;
then rinse, and brighten.
In the case of black it is recommended to mordant the silk
previously with nitrate of iron of 25 — 32 deg. Tw., to rmse very
thoroughly, and then to dye.
Methods of Aftertreatment for producing Dyeings on Silk
Fast to Water, Milling and Washing.
a) Aftertreatment ^\• i t h INI e t a 1 1 i c Salts.
The fastness to water, milling and washing of some of the
Acid and Diamine Colours (see pages 138 and 139) is consider-
ably improved by subjecting the goods are to an aftertreatment
with metallic salts. Depending on the nature of the dyestuff
used and the depth of shade to be produced, treat the goods with
2 — 4*^/o sulphate of copper
or
1 — 2"/o sulphate of copper and
1 — 2% bichrome
or
1 — 3^/0 chromium fluoride
or
1 — 2% bichrome
for '/4 hour in a boiling hot bath previously charged with
5 — 8°/o acetic acid, then rinse, and brighten.
By such treatment with sulphate of copper, the fastness to
light of the dyeings is likewise materially improved.
b) Aftertreatment with Tannin and Antimony.
Some of the Acid Colours, especially those enumerated on
page 139, and all the Basic Colours (see pages 136 and 137),
are improved in point of fastness to water by an aftertreatment
with tannin and antimony ; some of these products are even
rendered very fast to washing and milling by such aftertreatment.
Immerse the dyed silk for some hours or overnight in a
bath heated to 50 — 70° C. (120 — 160 deg. F.) and containing
1 — 2 lbs pure tannic acid per 10 gallons liquor; squeeze off,
and treat for 1/2 hour in a fresh bath of 30— 50<' C. (85—120
deg. F.) containing 8 — 12 oz of some antimony salt per 10 gallons
liquor ; then rinse, soap if necessary, and brighten.
— 142 —
of the weisrht of the material
Methods of Dyeing Silk.
c) Diaz otising and Developing ; Coupling with Nitrazol.
This treatment renders the dyeings absolutely fast to water
and exceedingly fast to washing and milling; Primuline is thereby
rendered fast to de-gumming.
For purposes of diazotismg and developing^ treat the dyed
and rinsed silk for ^\i — ^/o hour in a wooden vessel with a
cold bath charged with
3^/0 nitrite of soda and
9o/(j hydrochloric acid or 6^/0 sulphuric acid,
rinse, and develop at once. The various developers are used
according to requirement in the following quantities reckoned on
the weight of the silk):
0.7°/o Phenylene Diamine, dissolved with one-third of its
own weight of soda, or
1 ^/o Beta Naphtol, dissolved with its own weight of
caustic soda lye of 77 deg. Tw, or
0. 7*^/0 Resorcine, dissolved with double its weight of
caustic soda lye of 77 deg. Tw.
Work for ^/4 — ^/o hour in the cold bath, rinse, soap hot,
and brighten.
The cozipling with Nitrazol C is carried out in a cold bath
in which treat the dyed and rinsed silk for ^/2 hour with
3—6 ^/o Nitrazol C
1—2 % soda
^4 — ^/2% acetate of soda;
then soap, rinse, and brighten.
Nitrazol C should be dissolved in cold water and filtered.
The Application of Basic Colours for Shading
Logwood Black.
The following products are suited for shading logwood black
in a fatty soap bath :
Blue for Silk DA j
Green for Silk MS ■ for bluish blacks
Alkaline Blue, all brands ]
Alkaline Violet C |
Methyl Violet, all brands ' for reddish blacks.
Magenta j
These products should be carefully dissolved in condensed
water and added through a filter to the dyebath.
— 143 —
The Dyeing of Silk.
Dyeing of Tussah (Raw) Silk.
Tussah silk is dyed like ordinary silk ; for dyeing fancy
shades, the same dyestuffs as mentioned before are applied
and in the same manner. As tussah silk, however, does not absorb
the dyes tuff quite so easily as ordinary- silk, the dyebaths should be
charged with somewhat larger quantities of dyestuff and the dyeing
operation protracted a little. More absorbent is bleached tussah
silk, which of course yields clearer shades. The bleaching is car-
ried out as follows :
Fill a clean wooden vessel with cold water charged with
P/4 lb sulphuric acid of 168° Tw. per 10 gallons. While con-
tinually stirring, add slowly 1 lb peroxide of sodium per 10 gallons
liquor and then a little silicate of soda until a slightly alkaUne
reaction sets in. Then enter the silk, w^hich has been previously
^eaned well in a hot soda and soap bath, and raise the tempera-
ture to 90—95*' C. (195—205 deg. F.) in the course of an hour.
After 6 to 8 hours the bleaching is completed ; thereupon rinse
the goods, treat for some time in a lukewann solution of bi-
sulphite which has been slightly acidulated, rinse again, and dry.
The following dyestuffs are particularly well suited for Blacks:
Xaphtylamine Black 4B, 6B, X2B, X3B and
Neutral Wool Black B, G
which may be shaded, as required, with a litde Indian Yellow R;
dye boiling hot with 15 — 20°/o dyestuff in a boiled-off liquor aci-
dulated with acetic acid, and exhaust by the addition of a little
sulphuric acid.
Dyeing of Bourette Silk and Silk Noils.
For this purpose any of the dyestuffs mentioned on pages
136 to 139 may be used. For the production of particularly
bright shades at a low cost, Basic Colours are largely used,
while for dyeings fast to milling, the Diamine Colours in particular
are used as well as the Acid Colours indicated on page 139.
It is not necessary to use boiled-off liquors, it being sufficient
to work in acetic or sulphuric acid baths.
— 144
Union Dyeing.
lOe II
The Dyeings of Unions in the Piece, in Hanks
and in the Loose Material.
Unions are dyed either
A. by the one-bath method, with Diamine Colours and
wool dyestviffs together in a neutral bath, or
B. by the tWO-bath method in two {or more) baths;
in the latter case the wool is dyed first and then the
cotton, or vice versa the wool after the cotton.
A. Dyeing by the One-bath Method.
For dyeing by the one-bath method the Diamine Colours
are divided into the following groups according to their behaviour
towards the vegetable and animal fibres :
1. Diamine Colours which dye cotton and wool practi-
cally the same shade ;
2. Diamine Colours which dye the cotton deeper than
the wool ;
3. Diamine Colours which dye the wool deeper than
the cotton.
A further group to be considered is
4. Wool Colours which go on to wool in a neutral Glau-
ber's salt bath and which are used for shading the
wool in order to bring it to the same shade as the
cotton.
The relative absorption of the dyestuff on the part of the
wool and the cotton being dependent in the main on the tem-
perature of the dyebath and the quantities of salt added thereto,
as well as on the affinity of the dyestuffs used to the material
to be dyed, it is impossible to lay down hard and fast rules
about the groups to be employed in each case.
A general mle is that a high temperature is favourable to
dyeing ths wool, whereas the dyestuffs go more on to the cotton
at a lower temperature.
— 147 — 10*e n
Behauiour of the Dyestuffs for
1) Diamins Colours which dye a;ool
2) Diamine Colours u;hich dye the
and coHon proctically the same shade.
cotton deeper than the wool.
Thioflavine S
*Diamine Fast Yellow A, AGG,
Oxy Diamine Yellow GG, TZ
♦Diamine Orange G, D [AR
Diamine Fast Yellow FF, B, M,
Direct Rose T
Diamine Orange B [3G
Diamine Fast Scarlet GG, 4BN,
Oxy Diamine Orange G, R
6BS, 6BGN, 8BN
Diamine Rose GD, BG
Diamine Bordeaux B
Oxy Diamine Red S
Oxy Diamine Violet B, G, R
Diamine Red 3B, 5B, 6B, lOB,
Diamine Heliotrope B, G, O
D, DN
Diamine Violet N, BB, RB
Cotton Red A
^Diamine Nitrazol Brown G
Diamine Purpurine B, 3B, 6B, V
Diamine Brown ATC
Diamine Fast Red F
Diamine Catechine B
Diamine Brilliant Bordeaux R
Diamine Fast Brown G, R
Diamine Bordeaux VRO
*Oxy Diamine Brown RN
Diamine Brown 3G, R, M, MR,
Diamine Sl^y Blue, FF, FFS
S, BWA, G^VA, 30a, 33,
Diamine Pure Blue A
37, 40, 42a, 43
"Diamine Fast Blue FFB, FFG,
Diamine Violet 2204J, 2205J
G, BN
Oxy Diamine Brown G, 3GN
Oxy Diamine Blue G, 3G, 5G, B, R
Diamineral Brown G
Diamine Blue BB, 3B, BG, NC,
Diamine Catechine G, 3G
51, 53, 54, 56
Union Brown TD, 1926 J, 2089 J
Diamine Bengal Blue R
Union Dark Brown A
Diamine New Blue G, R
Diamine Blue RW
Diamine Brilliant Blue G
Diamine Bengal Blue G
Diamineral Blue *R, *CV,
Diamine Azo Blue 6B
3B, B
Diamine Steel Blue L, 2206J
"Diamine Deep Blue B, R
Union Blue BJ, RJ, BB,
Diamine Dark Blue B
OHDF, 761 J, 806 J
Diamine Black BH, BHN,
I^nion Navy Blue 780J
BHR
Diaminogene B
Diamine Fast Black F, X.
Direct Grey 2207J
Diamine Green G, B, CL, BO.
The djestuffs marked with an aster-
isk (*) go verj- little on to the wool
fibre even on prolonged boiling.
Continuation page 150.
Continuation page 150.
14b
Unions toLuards Wool and Cotton.
4) Wool Colours (Acid Colours) luhich
3) Diamine Colours ujiiich dye the
in a neutral Glauber's salt bath go
Luool deeper tlian the cotton.
on to ujool and tuhich are used for
shading the woo\.
Diamine Gold
Naphtaline Yellow in ciystals
Diamine Yellow CP
Indian Yellow G, R, FF
Diamine Orange F
Tropaeoline G, OO
Diamine Red 101 J
Orange II, extra, ENZ, R
Diamine Violet Red
Azo Red A
Diamine Rose BD
Crocei'ne AZ
Diamine Scarlet B, 3B, RG
Roccelline
Diamine Bordeaux S
Wool Red B, BG
Diamine Brown B
Milling Red G
Diaminogene extra
Alkaline Blue 6B— 3R
Diamine Jet Black 00
Formyl Blue B
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Brilliant Wool Blue RB
Formyl Violet lOB, 8B, 6B,
S4B, S5B, HW
Alkaline Violet CA, C
Lanacyl Violet B
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
Lanacyl Navy Blue B, BB
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Naphtol Blue G, R
Brilliant Milling Green B
Thiocarmine R
Naphtol Dark Green G
Naphtol Blue Black
Continuation page 151.
149 —
Behauiour of the Dyestuffs for
1) Diamine Colours luhich dye
1
2) Diamine Colours luhich dye the
Luool and cotton practically the
same shade.
cotton deeper than the u;ool.
Diamine Green 2209J, 2210 J
* Union Blue Black 2340 J
Diamine Dark Green N
*Oxy Diamine Black KW
Diamine Black HW
Oxy Diamine Black A, D, SA,
Oxy Diamine Black JE, JEI, J W,
US, BM
JWF, FFC, UI, SOOO
Para Diamine Black B, BB,
Union Black S, P, BG, BB
FFB, FF extra cone.
3B, OJGJ, 1993 J
* Diamine Jet Black CR, RB, SS.
Union Jet Black B
Union Fast Black J
The dyestuffs marked with an
asterisk (*) go very little on to the wool
even on prolonged boiling.
5) Diamine Colours u;hich at a mode
rate temperature (about 50" C. or 120
deg. F.) go almost exclusiuely on to th
e cotton and may be used for shading
in a warn
1 dyebath.
Diamine Fast Yellow A, AR,
Diamine Sky Blue, FF, FFS
AGG, B, FF
Diamine Pure Blue A
Diamine Orange G, D
Diamine Blue NC
Diamine Rose GD
Diamine Fast Blue G, FFB,
Direct Rose T
FFG, BN
Oxy Diamine Red S
Diamineral Blue R
Diamine Purpurine 6B
Diamine Dark Blue B
Diamine Fast Scarlet GG, 4BN,
Diamine Deep Blue R
6BS, 6BGN, 8BN
Diamine Black BH, BHN, BHR,
Diamine Fast Brown G, R
RMW
Diamine Nitrazol Brown G
Diamine Jet Black SS, RB, CR
Diamine Catechine B
Oxy Diamine Black A, D, SA,
Oxy Diamine Brown RN
US, NF
Diamine Heliotrope B, G, O
Para Diamine Black B, BB, FFB
Oxy Diamine Violet B.
Diamine Milling Black B cone.
FG extra, FFB extra cone.
150
Unions totuards Wool and
Cotton.
4) Wool Colours (flcid Colours) u;hich
3) Diamine Colours luliich dye the
in a neutral Glauber's salt bath go
Luool deeper than the cotton.
on to u>ool and are used for
shading the u;ool.
See page 149.
Continued from page 149.
Naphtylamine Black 6B, 4B,
4BN, X2B, X3B, D, BB,
BBN, BBV, 3BV, R, RNB,
NBB.
Naphtyl Blue Black N, FB, FBB
Neutral Wool Black G, B, 4 B
Alphanol Black BG, R.
6) Diamine Colours u;hich qo ujell on to cotton in a cold bath and may be used
for subsequently dyeing the cotton in unions ujool-dyed in an acid bath.
Diamine Fast Yellow A, AR,
Diamine Nitrazol Brown G
FF, B, AGG
Diamine Brown S
Oxy Diamine Yellow TZ, GG
Oxy Diamine Violet B, G, R
Diamine Orange G, D
Diamine Heliotrope B, G, O
Diamine Rose GD, BD
Diamine Sky Blue, FF, FFS
Oxy Diamine Red S
Diamine Pure Blue A
Cotton Red A
Diamine Blue BB, 3B
Diamine Red lOB
Diamine Fast Blue FFB
Diamine Purpurine 6B
Diamine Green G
Diamine Violet Red
Diamine Black BH, BHN, BHR,
HW, RMW.
The subsequent dyeing of the cotton
is done cold to lukewarm in as short a
bath as possible as described on pages 1
57 and 158.
D)eing of Unions.
Directions for Dyeing by the One-Bath Method.
For union piece-goods, the ordinaiy wooden vat provided
with a winch is used. The heating is best done by indirect steam
because direct steam is apt to dilute the liquor too much. Dye-
vats which have been used previously for working with acids
should be well cleaned first by boiling with soda in order to
neutralise the acid which has penetrated into the wood.
For deep shades the liquor should be as concentrated as
possible (25 to 30 times the weight of the goods to be dyed),
2 — 4 lbs Glauber's salt crystals per 10 gallons liquor being added.
The bath is first boiled up, and after shutting off steam the
goods are entered, run for 20 — 30 minutes without steam, and
boiled for '/a hour. The dyeings are then sampled to see
whether up to shade or not; if the desired shade is not yet
obtained and the wool and cotton are both still too pale, the
requisite quantity of dyestuff is added to the liquor and the bath
brought again to the boil, the goods being then worked for another
V4 — ^/2 hour. If the wool is still too light, dyeing is continued
at the simmer, after adding a small quantity of wool dyestuff,
until it has assumed the desired depth of shade. If on the other
hand the cotton be lacking in depth of shade, the goods are simply
left to feed in the cooling bath, such dyestuffs as dye the cotton
deeper (Group 2) being added according to requirement.
For pale shades it is recommended to apply a different
method, the M^ell wetted out goods being entered at 50 ° C.
{120 deg. F) into the bath charged with ^2 — 1 lb Glauber's salt
per 10 gallons liquor, raising the temperature gradually to the
boil, boiling from 20 — 30 minutes, and samipling. If the wool
is dyed sufficiently deep and the cotton is deficient in this respect,
some of the requisite cotton dyestuff is added, the goods being
worked in the cooling bath, whilst if on the other hand the wool
has not assumed the desired depth of shade, some of the wool
dyestuff is added and the dyeing continued near boiling temperature.
AVhen dyeing pale shades, the dyebaths become almost com-
pletely exhausted; in the case of medium and dark shades on
the other hand a portion of the dyestuff remains in the bath
which is preserved for subsequent lots.
It is recommended to keep separate vats for dyeing pale
shades, brown, olive and similar shades, and others again for
blacks and deep blues; if however there be reasons against keeping
standing baths for the most current shades, the same liquor may
be used repeatedly in a suitable rotation.
— 152 —
One-Bath Method.
The amounts of dyestuff required for dyeing medium or dark
shades in a standing bath are about ^/^ — ^j^ of those used at
first; the additions, are dependent on the depth of shade, volume
of liquor, and loss of liquor ensuing each time when lifting the
goods. Thus the actual quantity required can only be determined
exactly after dyeing the second or third batch.
Of Glauber's salt it is as a rule not necessary to add any
more than one-fifth of the original quantity for subsequent lots,
but the quantity may also be gauged according to the volume of
water required for repleting the liquor, as for instance, about
2 — 4 lbs Glauber's salt crystals per 10 gallons water in the case
of deep shades. Very deep dyeings such as claret, dark brown,
dark blue and black should be thoroughly rinsed after dyeing,
as they are otherwise apt to bronze during the drying.
Care should be taken not to dry deep shades at too high
a temperature which likewise promotes the bronzing. Bronzy
dyeings may easily be improved or corrected by rinsing sub-
sequently in tepid water to which a little soap may if necessary
be added.
If Diamine Colours do not by themselves yield sufficiently
bright shades of blue, green, violet or claret, the dyeings may
be topped with Basic Colours in a fresh liquor with the addition
of 2 — 3°/o acetic acid. If the Basic Colour is required to go on
to the cotton only, the topping is done in a cold liquor, but if
required to go more onto the wool, the bath must be heated
gradually, for instance in the case of Diamond Magenta to 40 — 50° C.
(105—120 deg. F.), and for Methyl Violet, Victoria Blue B,
Brilliant Green, etc. nearly to boiling temperature.
Producing Dyeings Fast to Milling.
Union dyeings produced by the one-bath method possess as
a rule very good fastness to washing and milling. If a higher
degree of fastness to milling is demanded for half-ivool yarns
and shoddy, the following methods for fixing the colours come
into consideration;
I, An aftertreatment with metallic salts, ■
a) Bichrome or sulphate of copper alone,
b) Bichrome and sulphate of copper combined,
c) Chromium fluoride or chrome alum ;
II, An aftertreatment with
a) Formaldehyde or
b) Formaldehyde and bichrome;
— 153 -
Union Dyeing.
III. Coupling with Nitrazol,
IV. Diazotising and Developing with Phenylene
Diamine or Beta Naphtol.
I. Aftertreatment with Metallic Salts.
The dyeings produced in a neutral bath are taken, without
previous rinsing, into a second bath charged with 3 — 5°/o acetic
acid and the requisite metallic salts. If the dyebath is not to
be used over again and deep shades are wanted, the aftertreat-
ment may be carried out in the dyebath proper. The goods
are treated for 1/2 tour in this bath at 10-80° C. (160 — 175
deg. F.) and then rinsed.
The following dyestuflfs come into consideration for the
various methods of aftertreatment:
Diamine Fast Yellow A, B, FF, 3 G^
Diamine Orange B, D, G
Diamine Brown 3G, M, B
Diamineral Brown G
Oxy Diamine Brown G, RN
Diamine Catechine B, G, 3G
Diamineral Blue R, CV, B, 3B
Diamine Dark Blue B
Diamine Deep Blue B, R
Diamine Sky Blue FF
Diamine Brilliant Blue G
Diamine New Blue R
Diamine Blue RW, BG
Oxy Diamine Blue G, 3G, 5G, ^
Diamine Green G j aftertreated with
Diamine Fast Red F S'/o chromium fluoride, or
Diamine Bronze G J 3% chrome alum;
Diamine Jet Black SS, 00, Cr, RB 1 ^ , . ,
Oxy Diamine Black BM, NF tH'S^^t
Union Black S I
As suitable wool dyestufFs for shading which are fixed by,
or stand the aftertreatment with, metallic salts well, we recom-
mend the following:
Formyl Violet, all brands
Alkaline Violet C, CA
Brilliant Milling Blue B
aftertreated with
IVs" sulphate of
copper and
1 '/3°/o bichrom e,or with
3" bichrome (alone) ;
aftertreated with .S'/o
sulphate of copper ;
Dyeings Fast to Milling.
Fomiyl Blue B
Brilliant Milling Green B
Anthracene Yellow C
Alphanol Black BG, R
Anthracite Black R, B.
II. Aftertreatment with Formaldehyde or with
Formaldehyde and Bichrome.
This is suitable for the followi ig dyestuffs :
Diamine Brown ATC, MR, S
Diamine Fast Brown G, R
Oxy Diamine Black JE, JEI, JB, JW, JWF
Oxy Diamine Black SA, A, D, US, UI
Para Diamine Black B, BB, FFB, FF extra cone.
The aftertreatment is earned out in a fresh cold to lukewarm
bath with 3^/o formaldehyde or with 3°/^ formaldehyde and P/q bi-
chrome as well as 2 — S^o acetic acid at a temperature of about
70° C. (160 deg. F) ; or, if the bath is not to be used for sub-
sequent lots, the aftertreatment may take place therein when the
dyeing is completed. If formaldehyde and bichrome are used in
conjunction with each other they yield dyeings of still better fast-
ness to milling than are obtained with formaldehyde alone.
III. Coupling with Nitrazol.
Coupling with Nitrazol C is resorted to particularly for pro-
ducing blacks of good fastness to milling and acids on shoddy or
yarn dyed with Oxy Diamine Black J W or JWF.
After rinsing lightly, the goods are taken into a cold bath,
as short as possible, charged with
30/0 Nitrazol C* |
0,75°/o soda ash of the weight of the goods,
0,2 °/o acetate of soda J
treated therein for 20 — 30 minutes, and rinsed.
Nitrazol C is dissolved by stirring it up with a little cold
water, carefully crushing any lumps which may have formed and
bringing completely into solution by pouring a sufficient quantity
of cold water over it.
The coupling bath is first of all charged with the filtered
Nitrazol solution, then with the soda and acetate of soda.
* The coupling may be effected equally well with diazotised Para-
nitraniline instead of with Nitrazol ; for directions see Volume I, page 14.
— 155 —
D3'eing of Unions.
Diazotising and Developing.
The diazotising and developing is applied in the production
of dyeings on linings (Italians, serge) and ladies' dress materials
(Jacquard, cashmere, Orleans, half-wool yarn, half-wool shoddy,
etc ) which are required fast to washing, perspiration and acids.
The following dyestuffs are adapted for diazotising and
developing :
For Black:
Diamine Black BH, BHN, BHR \ developed with Pheny-
Diamine Azo Black B I lene Diamine;
For Dark Blu e:
Diai^ne Black BH, BHN, BHR
Diaminogene Blue NB, NA, 3RX
For Red:
Primuline
Diamine Azo Scarlet A, B
For Claret:
developed with
Beta Naphtol.
Diamine Azo Bordeaux B
shaded if necessarj' with
Diaminogene Blue 3RX
AVhen dyed singly by the one bath method, none of the
above-mentioned dyestuffs, with the exception of Dmi7ime Azo
Scarlet A and B, yield perfectly solid shades on the wool and
the cotton ; they have therefore to be shaded in the same bath with
suitable wool dyestuffs, for which purpose the following are used :
ForBlack:
Naphtylamine Black 4B, 6B
Foi-myl Violet S4B
Indian Yellow G.
For Dark Blue:
For Red:
Formyl Blue B
Brilliant MiUing Blue B
Formyl Violet S4B
Brilliant Milling Green B
:Milling Red G
Rosazei'ne B
For CI aret:
Milling Red G
Formyl Violet S4B,
156
Two-Bath Method.
The cotton dyestuffs mentioned are dyed boiling hot together
with the wool dyestuft's with the addition of 2 lbs Glauber's
salt or common salt per 10 gallons liquor; then the goods are
rinsed, and treated for 20 — 30 minutes in a fresh cold bath with
2 — 3«/o nitrite of soda and
6 - 9% hydrochloric acid or
4 — 6°/o sulphuric acid.
They are then rinsed quickly in cold water and developed
cold in a fresh bath, for
black with 0,7% Phenylene Diamine dissolved with half its
weight of soda ash, and
dark blue, red and claret with l°/o Beta Naphtol dissolved
with double that quantity of caustic soda lye of 77" Tw.
Diamine Azo Scarlet A and B are dyed at a temperature
not higher than 70 — SO** C. (160 — 175 deg. F), at which they
yield solid shades on both the wool and the cotton without any
further shading being necessary.
B. Dyeing according to the Two-bath Method.
I. Dyeing the Wool previously and Cotton-dyeing sub-
sequently with Diamine Colours.
The method is applied both for producing solid shades and
for goods showing two-coloured effects ; in the latter case the
cotton is dyed a different shade than the wool.
Dyeing the wool previously. According to the
requirements made for fastness, the wool is dyed either with
easily levelling dyestuffs, Acid Colours fast to milling or with
Chrome Colours, according to the particulars in the tables on
pages 68 — 79 regarding the dyeing of woollen piece-goods.
Subsequent dyeing of the cotton After the dyeing
in the acid bath, the goods are well rinsed, the cotton being
dyed in a fresh cold to lukewarm liquor with the Diamine
Colours mentioned further on In addition to the dyestuff
necessary 1^/4-8 oz per 10 gallons liquor), '/2 — 2 lbs Glauber's
salt crystals and ^/s — ^/i oz soda ash per 10 gallons liquor are
added according to the depth of shade required. This is done
in a short bath, either in the washing machine, jigger or a dye-vat.
— 157 —
Dyeing of Unions.
The following are the Diamine Colours best suited for
subsequently dyeing the cotton portion of union goods which
have been wool-dyed in an acid bath :
Diamine Fast Yellow A, AR, Diamine Nitrazol Brown G
AGG, B, FF Diamine Brown S
Oxy Diamine Yellow TZ, GG Oxy Diamine Violet B, G, R
Diamine Orange G, D Diamine Heliotrope B, G, O
Diamine Rose GD, BD Diamine Sky Blue, FF, FFS
Oxy Diamine Red S Diamine Pure Blue A
Cotton Red A Diamine Blue BB, 3B
Diamine Red lOB Diamine Fast Blue FFB
Diamine Purpurine 6B Diamine Green G
Diamine Violet Red Diamine Black BH, BHN,
BHR, HW, RMW.
If the wool has been dyed previously with Fast Yellow S,
Orange GG, Acid Magenta, Acid Violet 4RS, Acid Green extra
cone, extra cone. B, 5G, or Water Blue B, R, RB, the goods
have to be cotton-dyed subsequently without soda and after
rinsing soured off lukewarm with acetic acid. Rinsing with
acetic acid is in any case to be recommended unless Cotton
Red A or Diamine Red lOB were used for covering the cotton.
In the case of blacks or of dark shades like blue, green,
brow n, etc., the subsequent dyeing of the cotton portion of
union goods is usually carried out with
Diamine Black RMW
sometimes in combination with
Diamine Black BH
in the washing machine.
For very bright shades the cotton covered with Diamine
Colours may be topped with Basic Colours or may be dyed
straightaway with Basic Colours after having been suitably
mordanted. In the latter case the goods previously dyed with
Acid Colours are mordanted for 2-3 hours or overnight in a
cold to lukewarm bath with 2 — 5°/o tannic acid according to the
depth of shade, hydroextracted or squeezed off well, lixed for
20 — 30 minutes in a fresh, cold bath containing 1— 2^2^/0 of
some antimony salt, rinsed well, and dyed cold with Basic
Colours with the addition of 2 — 4°/q acetic acid. Any of the
Basic Colours may be used for this purpose (see page 14.)
The goods are then rinsed ; they may be soaped lightly if
necessary in order to remove bronziness caused by the Basic
Colours on the wool, and rinsed again.
158
Two-Bath Method.
II. Dyeing the Cotton previously with Diamine Colours
and the Wool subsequently with Acid Colours.
a) Cotton-dyeing previously in the Jigger or in the Vat:
For this purpose a number of blacks are well suited which
can be used for bottoming blacks, dark blues, dark greens and
dark browns.
Amongst these are the following :
Para Diamine Black B extra cone, BB extra cone,
FFB extra cone,
Oxy Diamine Black UI extra cone, US extra cone,
SA extra cone.
Diamine Milling Black B cone., FG extra, FFB extra cone.
For Scarlets and Reds,
Diamine Fast Scarlet GG, 4BN, 6BGN
may be used.
Charge the dyebath, which should be as short as possible and
have a temperature of 50—60** C. (120-140 F.), with 3— 4<>/o
dyestuff, 2 lbs Glauber's salt crystals and ^/4 — 1^2 oz soda ash
per 10 gallons liquor, and dye the goods in the same for
^/4— 1 hour, then rinse and cross-dye as required in an acid
bath as indicated in the tables for wool piece-dyeing (pages
68 — 79) ; then rinse well.
In cross-dyeing care has to be taken that the bath reacts
distinctly acid at the dyeing operation The whole amount of
acid necessary for exhausting the dyestuff is therefore added
at once when preparing the bath ; the goods are then entered
in the wet state into the moderately warm bath, which is raised
gradually to the boil, boiling being continued until the liquor
is exhausted. An addition of 5 — lO^/o alum is very beneficial.
If the liquor be insufficiently acid, the dyestuff is apt to boil
off from the cotton again and to go on to the wool.
b) Dyeing the Cotton previously in the Milling Machine.
The cotton may also be dyed without resorting to a special
dyeing operation, by charging the soap solutioh used for milling
with the solution of the cotton dyestufifs mentioned under (a)
and milling the goods with this dyestuff and soap solution in
the ordinary manner.
As a brown. Diamine Nitrazol Brown G may be used, being
afterwards coupled with Nitrazol in the subsequent rinsing water
according to the directions on page 155.
— 159 —
Dyeing of Unions.
After the milling, the goods are rinsed in the usual manner
and cross-dyed if necessary in an acid bath as indicated under
(a) on the preceding page.
If cross-dyeing is not to be resorted to, any of the Diamine
Colours, and particularly those indicated for cold-dyeing on page
151, may be used.
c) Dyeing the Cotton previously with Diazotised
Black, Blue, Red and' Claret.
Dye in the jigger or in the vat with the dyestuffs indicated
on page 156 at a temperature not higher than 50 — 60** C.
(120 — 140 deg. F.) in order not to stain the wool too much;
rinse, diazotise, develop, rinse again, and cross-dye with acid
wool dyestuffs in a fresh boiling bath.
Besides for plain goods, this method is also employed fre-
quently for two-coloured styles, by dyeing the wool in an acid
bath to any desired shade after having cotton-dyed the pieces.
Black, for example, is cotton-dyed previously with
5-6% Diamine Black BH, BHR, BHN or with \ for the
Diamme Azo Black B J starting bath
with the addition of
2 lbs Glauber's salt crystals ] ,, ,•
o, , , per 10 gallons liquur
^/s oz soda ash )
for 1 to VJ2 hour at 50^60^ C. (120— 140 deg. F.) The goods
are then rinsed cold, and (as indicated on pages 156 — 157) dia-
zotised and developed with Phenylene Diamine, or with a com-
bination of Phenylene Diamine and Beta Naphtol.
For plain shades of black, the wool is then cross-dyed with
Xaphtylamine Black 4B, 6B, X3B (Method III, page 6)
or with the following brands which have to be dyed in a strong-
ly acid bath :
Naphtylamine Black ESX, ES3B,]
ES5B, etc. ^klethod IT, page 5
Naphtylamine Blue Black B, 5B J
For two-coloured styles, the wool may be cross-dyed at will
with any Acid Colour desired.
Navj'Blue and Blue
are dyed with
Diamine Black BH, BHR, BHN
Diaminogene Blue NB, NA, 3RN
Diamine Azo Blue RR
— 160 -
Two-Bath Method.
in the manner indicated for black, diazotised, and developed
with Beta Naphtol.
For cross-dyeing in the production of solid shades, either
Alphanol Bhte BR extra (Method V, page 8)
Lanacyl Blue BB, R ] ,^ , . xrr
T I TV' -Di -D T3D Mothod III, pafirc 6
Lanacyl iNavy Blue B, BB J
or the easily levelling dyestuffs
Azo Wool Blue SE, SER
Azo Navy Blue B, 3B
in combination with
Acid Violet I ,, ,
T- 1 ^r- 1 i. I '''I' brands •
Formyl Violet j
may be used.
For two-coloured effects, the cotton should not be dyed
too hot in order to prevent the wool from absorbing too much
dyestuff; the wool may be topped at will in varying shades
with any of the Acid Colours.
Method I, page 4
Red and Claret:
Dye with
Primuline
Diamine Azo Scarlet A, B
Diamine Azo Bordeaux B
saddened if necessary with
Diamine Azo Blue RR
and the same ingredients as for black; Piimuline and Diamine
Azo Scarlet, which go easily on to the wool, are dyed at about
40 -50*^ C. (105—120 deg. F), Diamine Azo Bordeaux at about
600 Q (^140 deg. F).
After dyeing, the goods are rinsed lightly, diazotised, and
developed with Beta Naphtol as indicated on page 157.
For cross-dyeing the wool portion in the case of solid
shades of red, the following products are used :
Lanafuchsine SB, SG, Method I, page 4.
Naphtol Red EB, C K^ , ^ ,^ -
A -r. 1 • A } Method II, page 5.
Azo Rubme A | ' ^ "^
For two-coloured styles, the cotton portion of which is to
be dyed previously to red or claret shades, Primuline and
Diamine Azo Bordeaux B come into consideration in the first place,
but must not be dyed at too high a temperature. The wool is
then usually dyed green or blue with Acid Colours which dye
very blight shades; in some cases too the wool is dyed black.
— 161 — lie II
Dyeing of Unions.
III. Wool-dyeing previously with Dyestuffs Fast to Milling
and Cotton-dyeing subsequently with Immedial Colours.
This process is of particular value for the production of
dyeings fast to milling on half-wool yarns and on uncarbonised
shoddy.
The wool is first dyed as customary for loose wool (see
Tables, pages 20 — 31) with Chrome or Acid Colours fast to
milling, the goods being then thoroughly rinsed and cotton-dyed
with Immedial Colours.
The Immedial Colours are dissolved by boiling for 10 — 15
minutes with their own weight of sodium sulphide and double
their weight of glucose. This solution is added to the lukewarm
dyebath, and after adding 3 oz soda ash and, according to the
depth of shade, '/o — 3 lbs Glauber's salt crystals per 10 gallons
liquor, the goods are entered at a temperature of about 30 — 40*^ C.
(85—105 deg. F). In this bath the goods are worked tho-
roughly and then left lor 2 — 4 hours, or ovei night in the case
of goods difficult to penetrate, without heating any further. Yarn
is then wiung off thoroughly, shoddy thrown out, so that the
liquor runnmg off flows back into the bath, whereupon they are
rinsed well and soured off with acetic acid. If Immedial Black
or Immedial Carbon be used for the cotton-dyeing, the goods
should be aftertreated with 4^/2 — 8 oz acetate of soda per 10
gallons liquor according to the directions on page 214.
When dyeing in a standing bath, only ^/^ — '/s the quantity
of glucose as of sodium sulphide is added besides the reduced
quantities of dyestuff and sodium sulphide then required.
Instead of glucose, either borax or Immedial Intensifier C
may be used to equal advantage. In each case the Immedial
Colour is dissolved together with the sodium sulphide, the solution
added to the hquor and then of the borax or Immedial Inten-
sifier C half as much again as of sodium sulphide together with
the requisite quantities of soda and Glauber's salt. The dyeing
is carried out in the liquor prepared in this manner exactly as
described for w^orking with glucose.
The Immedial Colours suitable for the process will be found
enumerated in the tables on pages 194 — 205.
IV. Cotton-dyeing previously with Immedial Colours and
Wool-dyeing subsequently with Wool Dyestuffs.
The method indicated under III may be carried out in the
reversed order, the cotton being dyed first with Immedial Co-
- 1G2 —
Stripping the Dyeings.
lours and the wool then cross-dyed in an acid bath. Such
method of working is to be recommended particularly for piece-
goods, the wool portion of which may then be cross-dyed with
Acid Colours of good fastness to light and perspiration.
The process offers advantages for the dyeing of piece-goods,
and particularly for blacks, blues and browns as well as for two-
coloured styles, because it yields fast dyeings with a very good
firm handle. The dyeing is best done in a jigger provided v»^ith
squeezing rollers ; if correspondingly stronger dyebaths be used
the well-known continuous machines may likewise be employed.
Stripping of dark Shoddy, Shoddy Materials and
defectively dyed Goods.
To dye dark shoddy and shoddy materials in lighter
shades, it is necessary to first strip the old colours off the
material. The stripping agents most frequently employed are
the following :
1 , Soda. The desired effect is frequently obtained simply
by a treatment with soda, particularly if light-coloured material
is only to be improved a little.
The goods are treated for 20 minutes with
5—10% soda
at about 50^ C. (120 deg. F.), rinsed well, and then dyed. If
the goods stripped in this manner are given a further treatment
as described on page 164 under (3), considerably better results
are obtained.
If it is desired to reduce shades which have come out too
dark, it is frequently found quite sufficient just to treat the
dyeings in hot water to which a little soda or ammonia may
be added in order to increase the effect.
2. Sulphuric Acid. Wood Colours may be stripped to
a sufficient extent by boiling with sulphuric acid. The stripping
may be combined with the dyeing process, by- dyeing the Acid
Colours in the customary manner and adding another 6 — S'^/o
sulphuric acid when the bath is exhausted, the boiling being
then continued for another 1/2 — ^/4 hour.
By the subsequent boiling in the strong sulphuric acid bath
the dark bottom of the material is destroyed for the greater
part, and a brighter and more level dyeing resvilts than would
be the case without such subsequent boiling.
— 163 - ll*e II
Dyeing of Unions.
3. Bichrome and Sulphuric Acid. This method is
frequently applied for such kinds of shoddy and shoddy cloth
as are not sufficiently stripped by soda or sulphuric acid alone.
Boil for ^'2 — */4 hour with
3 — 6 % bichrome and
6 — 12°/o sulphuric acid, adding to advantage also
3 — 6 % oxalic acid.
After stripping, rinse well, neutralise if necessar}', and rinse.
In some instances the bichrome and sulphuric acid bath is
also used for dyeing ; the dyestuffs suitable for this purpose are
indicated on page 190.
4. Hyraldite Z for Stripping. If the stripping with
bichrome and sulphuric acid is not effective enough or the
yellowish ground cannot be stripped sufficiently by a subsequent
treatment with bisulphite so as to permit of the desired shade
being produced, Hyraldite should be employed as the most
efficient agent.
The stripping with Hyraldite ist best done in wooden vats.
Copper vessels have no effect on the stripping, but are apt to
cause spots on the goods.
Charge a bath of 40 -50° C. (105-120 deg. F.) with
2 — 4 ^/o Hyraldite Z for Stripping* andj
2,5-5,5% formic acid 85o/o or "^ tt go?ds?
1 — 2,5^/0 sulphuric acid J
enter the goods, raise gradually to the boil in the course of
^•2 — ^/4 hour, and boil for 20 — 30 minutes. Then rinse tho-
roughly, neutralise if necessary, and rinse once more.
The amount of Hyraldite to be used is dependent upon
the depth of shade and the properties of the dyeings to be
stripped as well as upon the extent to which the stripping is
to take place.
Hyraldite is likewise employed for the stripping of ^oods
that have been dyed defeetivcly or too deep a shade, in case
* Hyraldite A or C extra may be used just as well as Hyraldite Z for
Stripping, the quantites required being:
5_10"/o A or 2,5-5''/o Hyraldite C extra with
6 — 10° acetic acid :50" or bisulphite of tU" T\v.
- 164 —
Bleaching of Unions.
a treatment in hot water, to which a little soap or ammonia
may if necessary be added, should not be found sufficient.
Bleaching of Unions.
Union goods are bleached either with a view to obtaining a
pure, clear white to be marketed directly, or for the production of
pale, bright shades which it would not otherwise be possible
to obtain on ordinary scoured material.
The bleaching is effected :
1. By stoving in a sulphur stove.
2. With permanganate and bisulphite.
3. With peroxide of hydrogen or peroxide of sodium.
1. Stoving.
This is the cheapest method and is applied both in the
production of pure white goods and of bright, pale shades.
The goods, which have been cleaned very thoroughly
beforehand with soap, are hung up damp overnight in a suitable
wooden box or in a room with brick walls where they are exposed
to the fumes of burning sulphur, care being taken that air is
admitted in sufficient quantity at the bottom. When large
quantites are stoved regularly, arrangements may be made for
working continuously.
When the bleaching is completed, the goods are rinsed in
cold water and dried by hanging up in an airy place.
2. Bleaching with Permanganate of Potash and
Bisulphite of Sodium.
Prepare a cold bath in a clean wooden vat, to which add
a solution of 2 — 4*^/0 permanganate of potash (reckoned on the
weight of the goods) prepared in lukewarm water. Enter the
well cleaned goods damp, and run for ^/2 hour, or a little longer
if necessary, until they have assumed a uniform deep brown
shade. Then rinse lightly,- and enter into a warm bath con-
taining 1 — 2 gallons bisulphite of sodium and ^lo to ^/s gallon
sulphuric or hydrochloric acid per 100 gallons; leave the goods
in this liquor until the brown colour has disappeared entirely,
then sour off lightly, and rinse well.
The goods should be dried slowly and at a moderate
temperature.
— 165 --
Dyeing of Unions.
3. Bleaching with Peroxide of Hydrogen or
Peroxide of Sodium.
The best and most permanent white is obtained with
peroxide of hydrogen or peroxide of sodium.
Prepare the bleaching bath with 4—5 parts cold water and
1 part peroxide of hydrogen, adding a little ammonia or silicate
of soda to render it slightly alkaline. Enter the well cleaned
material, give a few turns, raise the temperature gradually to
40— 50^ C. (105—120 deg. F.), and leave the goods standing
for 6 — 8 hours or overnight, care being taken that they are
well covered by the bleaching liquor all the time. Then lift
the goods, and sour off weakly, adding a little bisulphite of
potash if necessary ; then rinse, and dry slowly.
Peroxide of sodium may be used in the place of peroxide
of hydrogen, as follows:
For every 10 gallons cold water add
10 '/2 oz sulphuric acid and after stirring well add gradually
8 oz peroxide of sodium while stirring continually.
The bath, which should be slightly acid, is rendered slightly
alkaline by adding a very small quantity of ammonia or silicate
of soda (red litmus paper should turn slightly blue.) Enter the
goods, raise the temperature to about 50*^ C. (120 deg. F,), and
leave the goods for some hours in the bleaching bath, care
being taken that they are covered well all the time by the
bleaching liquor.
After lifting, sour off, and rinse.
N.B. The peroxide of sodium should be added to the
bath in small quantities only while stirring well continually.
Only perfectly dry vessels should be used for weighing out;
paper should not be used for the purpose.
Methods of Dyeing applied for the most important
Union Materials.
Gentlemens' Suitings (Worsted Cloth, Cheviot, etc.)
These materials are for the most dyed according to the
one-bath method 7vith the combinations of dyestuffs indicated
in the Tables, pages ig4 — 205.
In some instances, particularly when the requirements for
fastness are very exacting, the two-bath method (cotton-
dyeing with Immedial Colours and cross-dyeing with
Acid Colours) is likewise applied; by this method a very
— 166 —
Gentlemens' Suitings.
pleasant handle is at the same time imparted to the goods.
(For method of dyeing see page 162.)
Union worsteds, particularly such with white an oloured
effects threads, may also be produced by weaving u i undyed
wool and cotton dyed with Immedial Colours along w th shot
effects dyed fast to acids, and cross-dyeing the wool in an acid
bath. For dyeing instructions and for a list of the wool dye-
stuffs adapted for this purpose see Tables, pages 68 — 79. The
following dyestuffs are used for blues and blackb, which are the
shades which come mostly into consideration:
For Blue
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
Lanacyl Violet B
*Lanacyl Navy Blue B, BB
*Azo Merino Blue 3G, G
*Azo Merino Dark Blue R
Peri Wool Blue B, BG, G*
Methods II and III,
pages 5 and 6 ;
these may be used both for plain goods and for goods with
shot effects. For more exacting requirements with regard to
fastness to perspiration,
*Azo Chrome Blue T, TB , Methods VIII
*Anthracene Chrome Blue F, G, and IX,
BB, B, R, FR I pages 9
*Anthracene Acid Blue BB, 3B, BBN, RtJ ''"'^.^^ •
are used for blues ; with the exception of Anthracene Chrome Blue
BB and G these may be used also for goods with effect threads.
For Black :
Any of the Naphtylamine Blacks may be used on plain
goods. The following are used in the first instance for goods
with effect threads:
*Naphtylamine Black EFF, ESN, ESSB,
ES5B, ES8b1 ^l^thodH,
*Naphtylafnine Blue Black B, 5B I ^''^'' '^"
For Blacks with very good fastness to perspiration :
Alphanol Black BG, R, Method V, page 8.
*Anthracene Chrome Black, all brands i Methods VIII
Anthracene Acid Black SR*, SBB*, i and IX, pages
DSF, DSN, DSFB) 9 and 10.
*Naphtyl Blue Black N i^yed with the addition of
^Naphtylamine Black R 1 SSl\v.74''l
* The dyestuffs mentioned are all sufficiently fast to steaming and
perspiration for ordinary requirements, those marked with an asteiisk (*) resist
even severe steaming (decatising).
— 167 —
Dyeing of Unions.
and for goods with efifect threads :
* Naphtylamine Black Cr, CrN ) Methods VIII and
* Anthracene Acid Black ST, SR, SRTj IX, pages 9 and lO.
It is well to use acetic or formic acid instead of sulphuric
acid in cross-dyeing the wool with Acid Colours in order to
avoid any possible weakening of the cotton fibre by mineral
acids. As a rule, S-lO^/o acetic acid of 8" Tw or 1,5—3%
formic acid 85 "/o are sufficient.
After dyeing, the goods should be well rinsed and treated
finally in a bath containing 8 oz acetate or formate of soda per
10 gallons Avater, after which they are dried without rinsing again.
Ladies' Costume Cloths, Meltons, Presidents.
These kinds of goods are usually dyed according to the
one -bath method. There is a demand for meltons and ladies'
costume cloths in all kinds of fancy shades from pale to dark also
black, for which the combinations given under (a) and (b) in
the Tables, pages 194-205, are used. Very well suited for
the pale grey, mode and drab shades so much in demand are
the following :
Combinations of
Diamine Dark Blue B .
Diaminogene extra, B
Diamine Fast Blue FFB
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
Diamine Orange B
Diamine Catechine B
Diamine Fast Yellow B.
Presidents produced from mungo and shoddy are with few
exceptions dyed black. This kind of goods contains in addition
to the white cotton warp a good deal of cotton on the face
and on the wrong side which it is necessary to cover effectively.
Preference is usually given to greenish blacks, which are dyed with
Union Black OJGJ, or
Oxy Diamine Black JE, JB
in combination with
Formyl Blue B
Brilliant jNIilling Green B.
The blacks mentioned are particularly well adapted for the dyeing
of presidents because they are very little apt to bronze even
when dyeing the cotton to the requisite very deep shades.
* See note at foot of previous page.
— 163 —
Flannelette and Imitation Lambskin.
Flannelette and Imitation Lambskin.
These materials are usually dyed by the otic-hath method
vith combmations of the dyestitffs mentioned in the Tables,
pages 194-205.
The bright shades required for these kinds of goods are
obtained in the following manner :
vS c a r 1 e t is dyed with
2 — 30/0 Diamine Scarlet B
in combination if necessary with
0,5 — 0,8% Rosazeine B,
blue tones with Diamine Scarlet 3B, at a temperature near
boiling point. The goods may if necessary be boiled for some
time when using Diamine Red 4B, 6B, or Diamine Fast Scar-
let GG, 4BN along with Diamine Scarlet.
Bright yellow shades are obtained with
3—4% Thioflavine S
in combination with
1-1,50/0 Naphtol Yellow S,
dyeing at a temperature of 50^ C. (120 deg. ¥ .) with the addition
of 2"/o acetic acid and 2 — 4 lbs Glauber's salt per 10 gallons liquor.
Pale and medium Blues are dyed with combinations of
Diamine Sky Blue, FF, FFS
Diamine Pure Blue A
Diamine Blue 2B, 3B
Diamine Brilliant Blue G
Formyl Blue B
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Alkaline Blue 6B~3R
with the addition of Glauber's salt, the goods being topped if
necessary with
New Methylene Blue
Victoria Blue
in a fresh bath with the addition ot a little acetic acid. When
applying Alkaline Blue, the goods must after rinsing be soured
off in a weak sulphuric acid bath and then rinsed again.
Bright violet shades may be produced by dyeing with
Diamine Violet N
Diamine Heliotrope B, O, G
Diamine Brilliant Blue G
— ley —
Dyeing of Unions.
with the addition of Glauber's salt and topping with
Methyl Violet
Diamond Magenta.
For topping, 3 — 4^/o acetic acid are added, the goods
being entered cold and the temperature gradually increased for
colouring the wool.
Pink is dyed with
Diamine Rose GD, BD
Direct Rose T
shaded with
Rosazeine B, 6 G
Irisamine G
Erythrosine B, D
with the addition of 10 — 20*^/0 Glauber's salt and 1 °/o acetic
acid at 40 — 500 C. (150-120 deg. F).
Particularly clear and bright pale shades are frequently dyed
on these goods as so-called "Sulphured Colours"; for
this purpose the following dyestuflfs are very well suited:
Cream:
Diamine Yellow CP
Diamine Fast Yellow B, P'F, A
Diamine Orange F, G, D
shaded with
Indian Yellow G, FF
Paraphosphine G, GG
Diamond Phosphine GG
Rosazeine B, 13
Irisamine G.
Pale Yellow:
Thioflavine S
Oxy Diamine Yellow GG, TZ
shaded with
Thioflavine T, TCN.
Pink:
Diamine Rose GD, BD
Direct Rose T
shaded with
Rosazeine B, 13
Irisamine G
Erythrosine B
Rose Bengale extra N.
Orleans and Lustre oods.
Pale Blue and Pale Green:
Diamine Sky Blue, FF, FFS
Diamine Pure Blue A
Thioflavine S
shaded with
Formyl Blue B
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Victoria Blue B
New Methylene Blue N
Brillant Milling Green B
Thioflavine T, TCN
Violet:
Diamine Violet N
Diamine Heliotrope B, O, G
shaded with
Methyl Violet 3B — 6B
Crystal Violet 10 B.
Dye for V2— "'A bour at 40—50 q (105-120 deg. F.)
with the addition of
5°/o Glauber's salt or
3 — 8 oz Glauber's salt 1 ir. n i-
r, o } per 10 gallons liquor,
3 — 8 oz soap j ^ ^ ^ '
or of
3 — 8 oz soap alone per 10 gallons liquor,
hydroextract well, stove in the sulphur stove, best overnight,
rinse lightly in a cold bath, and finally dry in the air.
Goods which are dyed with the addition of Glauber's salt
only are best passed through a cold soap bath and whizzed
again before being introduced into the stoving chamber.
Orleans and Lustre Goods.
The chief consideration, with a view to producing
satisfactory results in the case of goods consisting of a
cotton warp and a weft of lustrous worsted or mohair yarn,
is a suitable treatment in the preparing process. Among the
points to be observed are an even, perfectly straight rolling of the
pieces, free from any creases, on to the rollerson which they
are soaked, crabbed and steamed, as well as a careful singeing
and steaming.
The steaming roller should not be perforated its whole length
but a little less than the width of the goods; the roller should
be covered with a few layers of coarse linen cloth and the rolled
up piece should be wrapped with a back cloth.
- 171 -
Dyeing of Unions.
For the preparing, Orleans and lustre goods are rolled firmly
and evenly on to a roller in lengths of about 200 — 250 yards
and crabbed without roller pressure in the crabbing machine in
boiling water with the addition of ammonia and soap. They
are then passed through the next box filled with cold water,
passing below the upper roller, without pressure, and are rolled
on to the cylinder for the steaming. After the steam has
penetrated the goods evenly, it is allowed to pass through for
another 5 minutes, w^hereupon the goods are either left to cool
on the cylinder or for cooling passed through cold water. When
dry, they are singed on the plate-singeing machine.
The dyeing is effected either by the one -bath method or
in two or more baths.
Pak shades are dyed boiling hot by the one-bath method
in a neutral Glauber's salt bath, or, as is frequently done,
by simply padding with Diamine or Basic Colours in a
lukewarm bath.
In the production of Diedhiiii shades, the wool is usually
dyed in an acid bath, the cotton being dyed with Diamine
Colours in a weakly alkaline Glauber's salt bath, or with Basic
Colours on a tannin and antimony or a sumac and iron mordant.
The cotton dyeing with Diamine Colours is described on
page 157.
For cotton dyeing with Basic Colours, the goods,
which have been wool- dyed in an acid bath, are treated in a
cold to lukewarm bath for 2 — 3 hours or overnight, in the case
of pure clear shades with 2 — 5 °/o tannin, or of covered flat
shades with 5 — 15% sumac extract of 51" Tw, or with a
decoction of sumac leaves. They are then squeezed off well or
whizzed, and turned for 20 — 30 minutes in a cold bath with
l_2i/2"/o antimony salt or in a V2— 3" Tw. liquor of nitrate
of iron. After rinsing well, the goods are dyed to shade with
Basic Colours in a cold bath with the addition of acetic acid,
and rinsed once more thoroughly.
For dark shades and blacks the one-bath method
comes less often into consideration. On the other hand the
cotton is frequently dyed first with Diamine Black in the jigger,
especially for blacks, then diazotised and developed as indicated
on page 160, the wool being dyed in a boiling acid bath with
the dyestuffs indicated on pages 160 and 161.
Orleans and lustre goods are also frequently produced with
warps dyed fast to acids into which there may have been white
or coloured cotton effects worked up.
172 —
Union Cashmere.
In such case of course only the wool is cross-dyed, for
which purpose dyestuffs should be selected which do not stain
the white cotton effects (see tables on pages 68 — 79); after
dyeing, the goods should be well rinsed. To the last rinsing
bath 4^/2 — 8 oz acetate or formate of soda per 10 gallons of
liquor are added.
Union Cashmere.
With this fabric, which consists of a cotton warp and a
soft woollen weft, good results are dependent upon a correct
preparing.
The goods are first of all singed on the plate or the gas-
singeing machine, then crabbed. For this purpose the goods
roiled list upon list are treated for 15—20 minutes without
pressure in boiling water to which a little soap or soda may if
necessary be added, whereupon they are run in another hot bath
on to the lower of a pair of rollers in a second trough where
they are treated in the same manner as in the first. They are
then passed through cold water, washed in the washing machine,
rolled up smoothly, and steamed for 2 — 3 minutes in order
to remove any creases caused by the washing.
The goods prepared in this manner are dyed either in one
bath or by the two-bath method. The one-bath method is
usually followed for dark shades, particularly for blacks, pale
shades being obtained to better advantage by wool-dyeing in an
acid bath and covering the cotton subsequently with Diamine
Colours. (For method of dyeing see page 157.) Dark shades
such as black, dark blue, dark brown, dark green etc. on the
other hand are frequently dyed by the two -bath method by
cotton - dyeing with blacks fast to acids such as Para Diamine
Black B, BB, FFB, or Oxy Diamine Black US and UI (method
of dyeing on page 159), or with a diazotised and developed
black (page 160), and dyeing the wool subsequently with Acid
Colours to any desired shade.
In the case of blacks a harder handle is frequently required
than is obtainable by the aforementioned method, and a certain
increase in the weight through the dyeing process is likewise
expected. These results can be obtained by cotton-dyeing with
a direct black fast to acids or dyeing according to the diazotising
process, and covering the wool subsequently in the following
manner:
— 173 —
Dyeing of Unions.
Charge the bath with
2,5—3 % oxalic acid
2— 2,5"/o Napthyl Blue Black N
1 o/o Naphtol Blue Black
7— 10°/o sumac extract
10*^/0 Glauber's salt crystals, and a little Formyl
Violet or Formyl Blue B according to
requirement.
Enter into the bath hot, raise to the boil, and boil for
about an hour ; then add
1— 2*^/0 sulphate of copper and
3 — b'^'jo copperas,
and treat for another ^/o hour without any further boiling,
whereupon rinse thoroughly.
In subsequent dyeing, the precipitate which has formed is
first dissolved by an addition of oxalic acid ; the Glauber's salt
and dyestuff are then added, together with 4 — 5^/o sumac extract.
The procedure is the same as for the first lot.
For cheap articles the cotton - dyeing previously may be
substituted by dyeing the cotton subsequently with one-dip
logwood black (as indicated on page 111) in combination with
Naphtyl Blue Black or Naphtylamine Black. After dyeing, the
goods are very thoroughly rinsed.
When dry, the goods are singed again if necessary, rinsed
once more, squeezed off well (low-class goods are given a finish
with gelatine or dextrine with the addition of a little glycerine),
dried, and pressed.
Union Linings, Italians, Serges, etc.
The goods are first singed on the plate or gas-singeing
machine, then crabbed boiling hot under pressure, if necessary with
the addition of a little soda, rolled on to the steaming cylinder,
steamed for 10 minutes, cooled oiT, rolled afresh, and steamed again.
The goods, which are now ready for dyeing, are dyed all
kinds of shades, but principally black. The dyeing may be
carried out either by the one-bath method or in two or more baths.
Black is dyed by the one-bath method with the various
Oxy Diamine Black brands A, D, JB, JW, FFC, BM, etc.
Para Diamine Black B, BB, FFB, FF extra cone.
Union Black S, P, BG, BB, 3B etc.
— 174 —
Union Linings, Italians, Serges etc.
in combination as required with
Naphtyhimine Black 4B, 6B, X2B, X3B
Alphanol Black BG, R
Naphtol Blue Black
Naphtol Dark Green G
Brilliant Milling Green B
Formyl Blue B
Formyl Violet S4B.
The dyeing is carried out in a short bath as customary with
other union goods ; it is recommended, particularly for hhte-
h/ack, to boil first for ^'2 — ^U hour with Naphtol Blue Black
or Naphtol Dark Green G with the addition of Glauber's salt, and
after shutting off steam to add
Union Black S or Oxy Diamine Black BM
or for cheaper articles
Oxy Diamine Black A, D
Para Diamine Black B, BB, FFB, FF extra cone.
For example, the goods are boiled for ^/o — ^Ja hour with
0,6% Naphtol Blue Black
0,50/0 Formyl Violet S4B
and 2 lbs Glauber's salt crystals per 10 gallons liquor, and, after
shutting off steam,
A — b^jo Oxy Diamine Black BM
0,25% Diamine Fast Yellow A
are added and the goods run for ^U hour. If the wool is then
still too pale, but the cotton dyed sufficiently, the bath is brought
once more to the boil, boiling being continued until the requisite
depth of shade is attained.
For jet blacks, a similar method of procedure is adopted
but with smaller quantites of Naphtol Blue Black and Formyl
Violet, and increased quantities of Oxy Diamine Black or Para
Diamine Black, or, to simplify matters, all the quantities of
dyestuff required may be added at once, the dyeing being
carried out in the usual manner.
After dyeing, the goods are immediately rinsed cold and
then treated for '/2 hour with S^^/o bichrome and ^4 — %°/o
sulphuric acid at about 50° C. (120 deg, F.) in order to render
the colour resistant to the subsequent operations such as
steaming and crabbing. If the goods are crabbed only lukewarm
or not at all, and merely wet-steamed, it is sufficient to treat
— 175
Dyeing of Unions.
them lukewarm with 3 — 5% neutralised alum* in a dye -vat or
in two passages on the padding machine with 3 — 4^/2 oz, neu-
tralised alum per 10 gallons liquor.
Care has to be taken that the goods are rolled upon back
cloths of suliicient length and width and that the ends loo are
covered with a sufficiently long and broad piece of back cloth;
the back cloths should furthermore be dyed and treated in ex-
actly the same manner as the goods, as otherwise the ends of
the pieces are apt to turn out lighter in colour. The steam-
ing must furthermore only be maintained until all the fluid
is removed from the roll ; if the goods are treated correctly, the
waste water flowing off" will be well-nigh colourless.
When cold, the steamed goods are singed on the plate-
singeing machine, rinsed once more on the padding machine,
and finished, according to their quality, with
1 — 2 lbs dextrine |
1/2 lb gum tragacanth | per 10 gallons
1 — 2 lbs glucose
3 — 5 lbs sulphate of magnesia
dried on the tentering frame, cropped again, and pressed.
This one-bath black finished as indicated has the advan-
tage over black produced in two or more baths of simpler method
of production, which is quite a consideration when turning out
large quantities.
If a weighted black with a scroopy handle is required, goods
dyed by the one-bath method are rinsed and treated for about
an hour in a jigger with 8 — 5 lbs sumac extract per 10 gallons;
they are then left lying for several hours, given a bath of pyro-
lignite of iron or with a mixture of pyrolignite and nitrate of
iron, rinsed well, and finished off.
By this method of working, goods with a much firmer
and more scroopy handle may be obtained than by simply
applying the one-bath method, without entailing much extra
labour, the cotton being at the same time dyed a very
deep shade. A light finish with dextrine or glue may in such
case be given if required.
Another way of obtaining a black with a scroopy handle
is to first dye the cotton in a bath of 50-60^ C. (120—140
deg. F) wuth a black fast to acids (Oxy Diamine Black US, UI,
SA, Para Diamine Black B, BB etc, see page 159) and to
* Neutralised alum is protluced by adding soda gradually to a solution
of alum until the precipitate caused by the soda no longer dissolves
on stirring.
- 176 —
Union Linings, Italians, Serges etc.
wool - dye subsequently by the method with Naphtyl Blue
Black N and sumac (same as indicated for cashmere, page 173),
or with one-bath logwood black in combination if necessary with
Naphtylamine Black.
For this purpose charge a boiling hot bath with 4 — 6°/o
logwood extract, 5 *^/o copperas, 3 ^jo sulphate of copper and a
sufficient quantity of oxalic acid (2 — 3^/o) to cause the black
liquor to assume a yellowish to brownish colour. Hereafter add
the requisite quantity of Naphtyl Blue Black N or Naphtylamine
Black R, and a little Formyl Violet S4B, if necessaiy; enter
the goods, boil for 1/2 — 1 hour, then add a little ammonia
or soda ('/s'^/o— l°/o)» and treat for another ^/2 hour without
heating the bath any further.
In cases where particularly good fastness to perspiration
and a very good handle are required, Italians and serges are
best dyed black by first using a diazotised black like Diamine
Black BH, BHN, BHR, in the jigger, and developing with
Phenylene Diamine (see page 160). The wool is then dyed
with a Naphtylamine Black or Naphtylamine Blue Black, or
again with Anthracene Acid Black ST, SRT, which latter are
particularly distinguished for their fastness to perspiration, in
accordance with the particulars given on pages 78 and 79.
Still superior results can be obtained on the cotton of such
goods by cotton-dyeing with Immedial Black, the recipe for
which is given on page 162. The wool is subsequently dyed
in accordance with the before-mentioned directions.
Italians and serges (with or without effect threads), the
warp of which has previously been dyed with colours fast to
acids, only require to be wool-dyed. For blacks with effect
stripes, Naphtylamine Black EFF and Naphtylamine Blue Black B
and 5 B are specially to be recommended, and for goods of
superior fastness to perspiration, the before-mentioned Anthracene
Acid Blacks (pages 78 and 79).
For the production of mode shades, as also for all other
colours (blue, brown, red etc.), the one-bath method permits of
quick and reliable working and considerable economy in time
as compared with the older method of working. The dyeings
obtained in this manner are distinguished by their good fastness
to perspiration and rubbing, which is an important feature for
goods used for linings.
In cases where the wool dyed in colours according to the
one-bath method does not give satisfaction with regard to levelness
it is dyed in an acid bath, the cotton being covered subsequently,
— 177 — 12eii
D\-eing of Unions.
with Diamine Colours or with Basic Colours on a mordant of
tannin and antimony or sumac and iron (see pages 157 — 158);
very clear and light shades are, however, best dyed according
to the one-bath method.
Fabrics composed of Wool and Mercerised Cotton
are best dyed in one bath with Diamine Colours of good
fastness to light. Owing to the mercerised cotton displaying
far more affinity to Diamine Colours than ordinary cotton, and
owing further to the cotton portion of these goods being
generally required to be lighter in tone than the wool (contrary
to other union goods), the method of working is somewhat
different from that for other union goods. The Diamine Colours
of Group 3 which go easily on to the wool are principally used,
or the dyestuffs of the first or second group together with
suitable wool colours, the dyeing being carried out under con-
tinuous boiling.
In many cases also the absorption of the dyestuffs by the
wool can be accelerated by the addition of small quantities of
acetic acid, and in order to retain the lustre of the mercerised
cotton it is advisable to work quickly and to add a little acetic
acid to the rinsing bath.
In addition to the different colours for which the dyestuff
combinations mentioned on pages 194-205 are recommended,
blacks in particular are also dyed, for which
Union Fast Black J shaded with
Diamine Fast Blue FFG or FFB
is particularly well suited.
Union Crepons. .
The production of crepon effects on union goods is based
on the property of cotton to shrink when subjected to a
treatment with strong caustic soda lye. The union goods, which
are loosely woven with a view to obtaining the desired crimped
styles, are treated for a short while with cooled caustic soda
lye of about 32 — 42 deg. Tw., whereby the cotton shrinks and
the desired crimped effect is produced.
The treatment with soda lye, the mercerising, is in the
majority of cases carried out previously to the dyeing; it can
however also be done after the dyeing, this way of working
being resorted to for blacks and staple shades in particular, but
it is imperative in such case that the mercerising, souring,
rinsing, and neutralising with ammonia (if necessary) be carried
out in quick succession.
- 178 -
Union Materials with Mercerised Cotton. Union Crepons.
While for the dyeing of previously mercerised goods any
of the products suited for the dyeing of union goods (see pages
148 — 151) may be employed, the dyestuffs enumerated on the
following page (page 180) are best suited for goods which are
mercerised after the dyeing, as these best resist the subsequent
mercerising process.
The goods are dyed according to the general recipe for
dyeing union goods; the quantity of Glauber's salt may however
be reduced for dark shades to about 1 lb per 10 gallons liquor
in the case of previously mercerised goods. The boiling should
be maintained rather longer owing to the cotton showing greater
affinity for the dyestufF than the wool.
Two-coloured effects are sometimes required on
ciimped goods; the wool after merceiibing is then dyed in an
acid bath with easily levelling dyestuffs, and, after rinsing well
(best in water containing a little ammonia or soda), the cotton
is dyed in a cold to lukewarm bath with Diamine Colours and
the addition of Glauber's salt and a little soda. The Diamine
Colours best suited for this manner of working are enumerated
on page 151. In order to enhance the brightness of shade of
the dyeings, they are finally rinsed in water slightly acidulated
with acetic acid, or if found desirable given a slight topping
with Banc Colours.
Two-coloured effects can furthermore be obtained by first
dyeing the wool in an acid bath, then mercerising, and finally
dyeing the cotton. In addition to the neutral dyeing colours
mentioned on page 180, the following wool dyestuffs may in this
case also be used:
Naphtol Yellow S Azo Wool Violet 7R
Crystal Scarlet 6 R Cyanole extra
Brilliant Cochineal 2R Indigo Blue N, SGN
Eosine GGF Fast Acid Green BN
Lanafuchsine SG Cyanole Fast Green G
Azo Rubine A Naphtol Blac^i 2B
Biilliant Orseille C Naphtylamine Black S.
Goods wilh a black cotton ground on the other hand are
fiist cotton-dyed with Diamine Black BH at about 50 '^ C.
(120 deg. F.) with the addition of 2 lbs Glauber's salt and
^/4 — 1^/2 oz soda per 10 gallons liquor, then rinsed, diazotised,
and developed wilh Phenylene Diamine, and finally wool-dyed
in an acid bath.
— 179 — 12*611
Dyeing of Unions
Dyestuffs luhich resist marcerising in producing crepon effects on Unions.
Xeutral-dyeing Wool Dye-
Diamine Col
Thioflavine S
Diamine Gold
Diamine Yellow CP
Diamine Fast Yellow A, M, B, FF
Diamine Orange G, D, B
Diamine Rose BD, GD
Direct Rose T
Diamine Scarlet B, 3B
Diamine Brilliant Scarlet S
Diamine Fast Scarlet GG, 4BX,
6BS, 6BGX, 8BN
Diamine Red 4B, 58, lOB
Oxy Diamine R.ed S
Diamine Purpurine B, 68, 38, V
Diamine Fast Red F
Diamine Bordeaux B
Diamine Violet N, BB, RB
Oxy Diamine Violet B, G, R
Diamine Heliotrope B, G
Oxy Diamine Blue G, 3G, 5G
Diamineral Blue R, CV
Diamine Brilliant Blue G
Diamine Fast Blue FFB, FFG, G
Diamine Sky Blue FF
Diaminogene B, extra
Diamine Dark Blue B
Diamine Steel Blue L
Diamine Green G, B, CL
Diamine Dark Green N
Oxy Diamine Brown G, 3GN, RX
Diamine Brown M, MR, B, 3G, R
Diamine Fast Brown G. R, GB
Diamine Catechine B, G
Diamine Black RO, BH, HW
Oxy Diamine Black BM, SOOO,
A, S A, JE, JEI, JB, J\V, JWF
Para Diamine Blacks, all brands
Union Black S, BG, BB, 3B
,tuffs
Indian Yellow G, R, FF
Tropaeoline 00
Orange extra, ENZ, ENT, R
Croceine AZ
Roccelline, Azo Red A
Milling Red G, Wool Red B, BG
Rosazeine B, 13, Irisamine G
Formyl Violet S4B, 68, 8B,
108, HW
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Brilliant Milling Green 8
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
Lanacyl Violet B
Lanacyl Navy Blue B
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Naphtylamine Black 48, 68.
X3B
Alphanol Black BG, R
Neutral Wool Black B. 48.
* Dj-e in the usual manner with
the addition of 2 lbs Glauber's salt
per 10 gallons liquor, rinse, hydroex-
tract well, and mercerise.
For mercerising, a box with glid-
ing and squeezing rollers is used con-
taining soda he of 32 — 42 deg. Tw.
which is cooled by means of a suitable
cooling arrangement, or with ice, to
about 5" C. (41 deg. F.). After passing
the goods through the lye for 2 or 3
minutes, thej' are squeezed well and
entered into a further receptacle con-
taining a cold bath strongly acidulated
with hydrochloric or sulphuric acid.
They are hereafter rinsed thoroughly
with a continual flow of water, and
neutralised if necessary with ammonia.
Care should be taken that the acid
bath always contains a sufficient amount
of acid, and that ic is still distinctly
acid after the passage of the goods.
— 180 —
Union Astrachans.
Union Astrachan
consists of a ground of cotton and woollen pile, which latter is
curled by a special treatment.
These goods are dyed with Diamine Colours in combination
with wool colours according to the one-bath process. A solid
shade on the two fibres is not required, it being sufficient to
dye the cotton slightly deeper than the wool. Since the wool
usually absorbs the dyestuff very easily, the dyeing should be
carried out slowly and at not too high a temperature.
The best way of working is to commence at about 50*^ C.
(120 deg. F) and to gradually raise the temperature until the
wool is dyed to the right depth, which is usually the case below
boiling temperature.
It is advisable after rinsing to treat in water slightly acid-
ulated with acetic acid, and to top with Basic Colours in
accordance with the directions given on page 153 where neces-
sary in order to obtain bright results.
The lustre of the goods may be enhanced by applying a thin
solution of British gum and ghxerine on a finishing machine,
drying and steaming subsequently for about '/2 hour at 1 atm.
The British gum is then removed by rinsing with water, hydro-
extracting, and drying.
Mohair Plush.
The goods prepared by raising, steaming and cropping are
degreased by a thorough washing in the washing machine M'ithout
squeezing rollers or with only light ones in a soda and soap
bath of a temperature of 30 — 40° C. (85—105 deg. F.) for
^/•2 — ^ji hour, and are then rinsed well in clear water.
For the dyeing a distinction is made between the following
qualities :
a) Goods with a white ground,
b) Goods with a cotton or a cotton and linen ground dyed
fast to acids.
a) Goods with a white ground:
Pale shades are mostly dyed by the one-bath method
as is customary for union goods, but in order to keep
— 181 —
Dyeing of Unions.
the pile in as good condition as possible, only very little
Glauber's salt is added to the dye-bath, the dyeing being carried
out within as short a time as possible and without boiling (at
about 10^ C. or 160 deg. F.), The dyed goods are to advantage
soured off in water slightly acidulated with acetic acid.
In order to dye the wool a sufficiently deep shade at a
temperature below the boil, the Diamine Colours of Group 3,
or of Groups 1 and 2 in combination with wool colours, should
mainly be employed, a slight addition of acetic acid (0,5— I^/q)
assisting the absorption of Diamine Colours by the Avool.
Medium and dark shades are dyed by the two-bath
method ; the goods are first dyed in the usual manner in an
acid bath, and the ground of cotton, or of cotton and linen,
is then covered in a cold to lukewarm bath with Diamine Colours
(see page 157), or with Basic Dyestuffs on a mordant of tannin
and antimony or sumac and iron (see page 158).
Since by cotton-dyeing with Diamine Colours better fastness
to rubbing is obtained than when applying Basic Dyestuffs, the
former will be used to advantage, particularly for plush used
for upholstery, etc., and only in the case of very bright shades,
and for dark and full dyeings on plush with special designs
which cannot be obtained in the required depth and brightness
with Diamine Colours, will Basic Colours be found indispensable.
b) Goods containing cotton dyed fast to acids.
This class of goods is dyed in a much simpler way than
that described under (a), since it is only necessary in this case
to dye the mohair pile, which is, almost without exception,
done with Acid Colours. According to the quality of the goods
to be dyed, the following products of good fastness to light
may be employed :
For grey and mode shades:
Combinations of
Acid Yellow AT
Orange GG, II, extra
Lanafuchsine SG, SB
Azo Orseille BB
Cyanole Green B, 6G
Cyanole Fast Green G,
- 182 -
Mohair Plush.
P" o r Brown:
Combinations of
Acid Yellow AT
Tropaeoline 00, O
Orange IV, II, extra, GG
Lanafuchsine SG
Azo Wool Violet IR
Cyanole Green B, 6G
Cyanole Fast Green G
Tetra Cyanole V.
For Red and Claret:
Scarlet FR, F2R, F3R
Azo Rubine A
Brilliant Cochineal 2R, 4R
Croceine AZ
Brilliant Croceine, all brands
Lanafuchsine SG, SB, 6B
Naphtol Red C
Azo Wool Violet 7R
shaded according to requirement with yellow, orange, green, or
blue, same as for brown.
For Red on upholstery plush (especially for railway carriages),
Diamine Fast Red is frequently used and appreciated for its
very good fastness to light, perspiration and rubbing. Charge
the bath at 40 — 50^ C. (105—120 deg. F.), according to the
depth of shade to be obtained, with 1 — 2V2°/o Diamine Fast
Red F, lOO/o Glauber's salt and 2 — 5% acetic acid, enter the
goods, and raise gradually to the boil, after ^2 hour's boiling
adding another 2 — 3% acetic acid if necessary in order to exhaust
the liquor. After another ^2 hour's boiling, add S'^/o chromium
fluoride, run for another ^/a — ^/4 hour, and finally rinse well.
ForGreenandOlive:
Combinations of
Acid Yellow AT
Indian Yellow FF
Orange G, II, extra, R
Lanafuchsine SG
Cyanole Green B, 6 G
Cyanole Fast Green G
Naphtol Dark Green G for dark green.
— 183 —
D3-eing of Unions.
For blue and purple:
Tetra Cyanole V
Cyanole extra, FF
Brilliant Xaphtol Blue B, R, 4B
*Lanacyl Blue BB, R
*Lanacyl Navy Blue B, BB
Azo Wool Blue SE, SER
*Alphanol Blue BR extra
Peri Wool Blue B, BG, G
*Lanacyl Violet B
Azo Wool Violet 4B, 7R
Formyl Violet, for brightening.
For Black:
Naphtylamine Black ESX, ES3B, ES5B, SS2B, SS3B
Naphtylamine Blue Black B, 5B.
The dyestuffs marked with an asterisk (*j are dyed with the
addition of Glauber's salt and acetic acid, and exhausted with
bisulphate of soda; the other dyestuffs may be dyed straight-
away with the addition of bisulphate of soda.
After dyeing (best at full wadth), the goods are cooled at
once in a rinsing vat filled with cold water, and finally rinsed
once more very thoroughly in the washing machine. If the
fastness to rubbing then still leaves anything to be desired, the
plush is treated in the following manner:
Charge a cold bath in the washing machine with a sufficient
amount of glue solution to give it a slightly sticky feeling, then
add a little silicate of soda in solution gradually until a slightly
alkaline reaction sets in, run the goods for about 20 minutes,
then rinse well with fresh water, hydroextract, and dry.
The lustre of the plush may be enhanced by brushing on,
either by hand or by means of a suitable machine, a solution of
40 lbs British gum
1 ,, wheat flour
, 1 1 r» • 1 1 • ( per 10 gallons water.
P/a — 2 pmts glycevmc \ ^ "=
^/s — V2 ,, acetic acid. J
The plush is then dried, steamed for about 1 hour, washed
well in the washing machine, hydroextracted, and dried.
— IS-t —
Union Hosiery.
Union Hosiery.
In the dyeing of union hosiery it is more important than
with most other union fabrics to pay attention to uniform
shades being obtained on the wool and cotton, differences in
shade between the two fibres being particularly prominent on
such goods.
In order to prevent the cotton from showing up, it is
advisable to dye it somewhat deeper than the wool and preferably
to employ the dyestuffs of Group 2, especially for mode shades.
For the production of blacks,
Diaminogene B or
Oxy Diaminogene OT
with the addition of a little
Formyl Violet 1 B for more bluish blacks, and
Naphtylamine Black 4B, 6B for deeper shades of black,
in a bath slightly acidulated with acetic acid, are greatly in
favour in practice. Dye with 2 lbs Glauber's salt crystals per
10 gallons liquor and 1 — 2^lo acetic acid of 8 deg. Tw. near
boiling temperature; rinse, diazotise, and develop with Beta
Naphtol and Phenylene Diamine. (See pages 156 and 157.)
As a direct dyeing black of good fastness to washing and light,
Union Fast Black J
may be recommended, and cheap blacks much in use are the
various brands of Union Black, viz. P, BG, BB, 3 B, iggs /.,
etc., as also the Oxy Diamine Black brands JB, JJV, JU^F in
particular. The fastness to washing of these direct dyeing blacks
is improved by an after-treatment with formaldehyde or for-
maldehyde and bichromate of potash. (Page 155.)
For navy blue shades, combinations of the following
dyestuffs are specially well suited:
Diamine Black BII
Oxy Diamine Blue G, 3G
Diamine Heliotrope B
Lanacyl Navy Blue B and BB
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Formyl Violet, all brands.
For tan shades on stockings which are greatly in favour,
Union Brown 1926J, 2089 J, Diamine Brown No. 33
may be used.
All other shades are produced with the dyestuffs enumerated
on pages 194—205.
— 185 —
Dyeing of Unions.
Union Felt.
Union felts are almost invariably dyed by the one -bath
method.
In consideration of the very low quality of the goods, cheap
products are employed as a rule, expecially for deep shades, and
prolonged boiling or dyeing for any length of time should be
avoided as much as possible in view of the lack of resistance
of these, usually, thin felts. If the wool has not attained the
required depth of shade after boiling for some time, wool
colours are added in order to avoid prolonged boiling.
The Diamine Colours suited for this purpose are principally
those of Group 1, as also combinations of the dyestuffs
enumerated in the tables on pages 194 — 205.
For scarlet shades greatly in demand for felts,
Diamine Scarlet B
shaded with
Rosazeine B
or
Diamine Orange G
Diamine Fast Scarlet GG, 4 BN
Diamine Red 4 B
are used; for producing tan shades, the following are well
adapted:
Union Brown 1926 J, 2089 J
as well as combinations of
Diamine Orange B
Diamine Catechine 3G
Diamine Brown 3G
Diamine Fast Yellow M
Diaminogene B
Union Black S
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
Naphtol Blue Black.
In cases where the shades obtained by the one-bath method
are not sufticicntly bright, they are topped in a fresh cold to
lukewarm bath with Basic Colours, with the addition of acetic
acid. (See page 153.)
— 186 —
Union Felt, Union Braids and Brush Braids.
Bright green and violet are obtained, for instance, by first
dyeing hot with Dfamine Colours and wool dyestuffs, and top-
ping subsequently with Basic Colours, cold to hot, in a bath
slightly acidulated with acetic acid.
Green
Oxy Diamine Yellow GG, TZ, or
Thioflavine S
in combination with
Naphtaline Yellow
Brilliant Milling Green B
and topped with
Brilliant Green.
A^ i o 1 e t
Oxy Diamine Violet B, R or
Diamine Violet N
in combination with
Oxy Diamine Blue G
Formyl Violet S4B
Croce'ine AZ
and topped with
Methyl Violet 6B— 4R.
Union Braids and Brush Braids.
Woven tapes or braids are singed, steamed on the steaming
cylinder, and finally scalded in boiling hot water. After cooling, the
goods are rolled up in hank form, washed with soda or ammonia
and soap, rinsed, and dyed.
These goods are dyed like other union fabrics according to
the one-bath method in a neutral Glauber's salt bath with the
dyestuff combinations given in the tables on pages 194 — 205,
following the manner of working described on page 152.
Solid shades on the wool and cotton are particularly re-
quired for union brush braids, and for this class of goods, dye-
stuffs of Group 1 (page 148) are therefore principally selected
which dye wool and cotton as evenly as possible. For the
sake of the appearance of the goods it is well to dye the cotton
a little deeper than the wool, the same tone however being
maintained.
- 187 —
Dyeing of Unions.
Pale bright shades are best dyed without boiling, at a
temperature of 70 — 80'^ C. (160— 175 deg. F.l; very bright and
pure tones are obtained by stoving after the dyeing. (For recipe
see pages 170 — 171).
In some cases, particularly for the production of bright and
full tones, braids may also be dyed by first wool-dyeing in an
acid bath, and cotton-dyeing subsequently with Basic Colours
on a mordant of tannin and antimony (see page 158.)
Union Yarn.
Union yarns, like braids, are dyed with Diamine Colours in
combination with wool dyesluifs. Where the fastness to washing
of direct dyeings does not give complete satisfaction, they may
be rendered faster by a suitable aftertreatment as described on
page 153, or, again, they may be dyed by the two-bath method
with wool colours fast to milling and Immedial Colours. (For
dyeing instructions see page 162, as also tables on pages 194 — 205).
Cheap blacks of good fastness to milling are dyed with
Oxy Diamine Black JB, JW, JWF, or with
Oxy Diamine Black US, UI
Para Diamine Black B, BB, FFB
in combination with
Alphanol Black BG, R,
aftertreating with 3% formaldehyde and l*^/o bichromate of
potash ; and of good fastness to light and milling with
Diamine Jet Black SS, 00
in combination with
Alphanol Black BG, R
Anthracite Black B, R,
aftertreating with 3^0 bichromate of potash and 2^;o acetic acid.
Blacks with best possible fa s t n e ss to light and milling
are to advantage produced with Chrome Colours in combination
with Immedial Colours (see page 162).
Chea]) shades ofblack fast to milling and acids
are obtained with
Oxy Diamine Black JW
coupled with Nitrazol C.
— 18S —
Shoddy Yarn. Shoddy Cloth.
Shoddy Cloths with Cotton Warp.
Union shoddy piece-goods are generally manufactured from
carbonised or non-carbonised shoddy weft and a cotton warp,
being then dyed either according to the one-bath or the two-
bath method, whichever yields the desired shade the most easily
on a ground which in the case of such goods is usually dark.
When working in two baths, the wool can either be dyed
first, the cotton being dyed subsequently with Diamine Black
RMW, or the goods are cotton-dyed first with a black fast to
acids (either in the dye-vat or in the milling machine) and wool-
dyed subsequently.
In order to produce as light shades as possible on a dark
ground, the coloured material is frequently stripped, for which
purpose bichromate of potash and sulphuric acid, or Hyraldite,
are generally employed.
The various methods of stripping are described on pages
163—165.
/. One-bath Method for Shoddy Cloth.
When working according to the one-bath method, it must be
remembered that shoddy absorbs the dyestufFs more readily than
other qualities of wool, and that the wool, which in itself is
usually dyed a dark shade alread3% requires less dyestuff than
the cotton contained in the cloth which is generally undyed.
In order to cover the cotton sufficiently well, it is advisable
to use those Diamine Colours which dye the cotton more
strongly than the wool (Group 2, page 148) and to commence
dyeing below boiling temperature, only raising to the boil in
case the wool has not been dyed a sufficient depth at a lower
temperature.
A material which has been previously stripped in an acid
bath should be neutralised well with soda and rinsed before
being entered into the dyebath. If vats are used for the dyeing
which have previously been employed for acid dyeing or stripping,
they must be boiled out beforehand with soda.
With a view to obtaining bright and even shades on shoddy
goods by the one-bath method, the dyeing is frequently carried
out by first boiling for ^j^ hour to ^/t hour with neutral-dyeing
wool colours and Glauber's salt, then adding the cotton
colours and running for ^/^ — 1 hour in the cooling bath. This
method of working is of particular advantage for blue, as
the black dyestuff used for covering the cotton is thus.
- 189 —
Dyeing of Unions.
prevented from going on to the wool, so that brighter results
are obtained in this manner than according to the ordinary
method of working. The brightest shades are obtained by using
such dyestuffs for ihe cotton as have only little tendency to go
on to the wool, such as Union Black 2340J and Oxv Diamine
Black KW.
2. Two-hath Method for Shoddy Cloth.
a) Acid-dyeing the wool previously and cotton-
dyeing subsequently. This method of working is applied a
great deal, paiticularly for very dark shoddy goods; brighter
results are obtained in this manner than when dyeing in one
bath, coloured wool being stripped to some extent by the acid
dyeing and greater uniformity and brightness of shade being
obtained thereby.
Dye with Acid Colours as usual (pages 68 — 79), and on
exhaustion of the bath add another 6— S'^'o sulphuric acid,
boiling hereafter for further V2 — ^/4 hour.
After the acid -dyeing, rinse, and then cotton -dye in a cold
to lukewarm bath, best in the washing machine, as described
on page 157.
When stripping shoddy goods before the dyeing by boiling
with bichrome and sulphuric acid, certain dyestuffs may be
applied by being added straight to such stiipping bath.
The following may be applied to advantage in this manner
Naphtol Yellow S Formyl Violet lOB, S4B
Fast Yellow S Alkaline Violet C, CA
Acid Yellow AT Acid Green extia cone,
Indian Yellow G, R, FF Acid Green extra cone. B
Orange extra, II, EN, ENZ Fast Acid Green BN
Scarlet FR, F2R, F3R Brilliant Milling Green B
Brilliant Cochineal 2R, 4R Cyanole Fast Green G
Brilliant Orseille C Cyanole FF, extra, GG
Azo Oiseille BB Tetra Cyanole V', SF, extra, A
Acid Magenta Formvl Blue B
Acid Violet 4RS, 6BS Brilliant Milling Blue B.
b) Co t ton -dyein g previously, with subsequent wool-
dyeing. The cotton is fust dyed black or brown with Diamine
or Immedial Colours, and after the neces=aiy rinsing the required
shades are produced on the wool in an acid bath.
- 190 —
Shoddy Cloths.
With Diamine Colours, black shades for instance are pro-
duced by dyeing- either in the vat for 1 hour at 50 — 60" C.
(120-140 d'eg. F.) with
5_6 % Para Diamine Black B, BB, or
Oxy Diamine Black SA, UI, US, or with
3 — 3,5 ^/o of the concentrated brands of these products or of
Diamine INIilling Black B cone , FG extra,
FFB extra cone,
for the starting bath, with the addition of 2 lbs Glauber's salt
crystals and P/2 oz soda per 10 gallons liquor (page 159), or
in the milling machine (page 159) with, say,
1 — 1,5% Diamine Milling Black B cone, FG extra, FFB
extra cone.
If a brown warp is required in the place of the black one,
the goods are dyed with Diamine Nitrazol Brown G or B either
in the vat or in the milling machine, and after rinsing are straight-
away coupled in the washing machine with Nitrazol C (p. 155) ;
the Immedial Brown brands enumerated on page 197 may like-
wise be used for the purpose.
The cotton-dyeing previously with Immedial Colours is
carried out in \ki^ jigger as described on page 162; any of the
Immedial brands mentioned on page 205 may be used for this purpose.
For the sjthseqnent vool-dyeing, any Acid Colours w]jich
are suited for piece-dyeing may be applied, as, for instance,
for black:
Naphtylamine Black 4B, 6B, S, 4BS, ES3B, ESN etc.
Naphtylamine Blue Black B, 5B, Naphtol Black B, 3B, 6B;
for deep blue:
Azo Wool Blue SE, SER, Formyl Violet, all brands
Azo Navy Blue B, 3B Acid Violet 6BS ;
Acid Navy Blue A
for brown, green, and olive:
Combinations of
C3'anole Green B, 6G Acid Yellow AT
Lanafuchsine SB, SG Indian- Yellow G
Naphtol Red EB, C Tropaeoline 00.
Orange extra, II.
First charge the bath with the dyestuft^ and the whole
quantity of bisulphate of soda or acid required for exhaustion ;
enter the goods warm, raise slowly to the boil, and boil gently
until the liquor is exhausted. The dyebath must be distinctly
acid from the beginning, since the cotton dyestuflf is apt to
boil off again if the bath is neutral.
— 191 —
Dyeing of Unions.
Uncarbonised Shoddy, Wool Waste, Rags, etc.
In the dyeing of shoddy, a distinction is drawn between
material free from cotton, i. e. carbonised material, and such
containing vegetable matter, particularly cotton.
In order to save the expense of carbonising and to
obviate the loss of weight incurred thereby, the vegetable matter
contained in the latter material is dyed the same shade and
depth as the wool.
Rags and similar waste still in the untorn state are before
dyeing sorted according to quality and colour to enable choice
being made of whichever ground colour appears best suited for
the shade to be dyed. By this means, a previous stripping of
the material is in many cases saved which would otherwise be
indispensable in order to obtain the desired shade. In such
cases, however, where the ground shade is dark and it is found
necessary to produce light shades thereon, the dark groimd is
removed as much as possible before dyeing by means of suitable
stripping agents; those used most frequently are described on
page 163. In the case of goods to be dyed according to the
one-bath method, the material which has previously been stripped
in an acid bath must be neutralised with soda and rinsed before
being entered into the dyebath.
Shoddy generally absorbs dyestuff more readily than other
kinds of wool, and the coloured wool portion requires less
dyestuff than the cotton with which it is woven up, which latter
is mostly white ; it is therefore advisable to employ principally
the Diamine Colours of Group 2, and to commence dyeing a
little below boiling temperature, raising the temperature to the
boil if the wool has not been dyed a sufficient depth at a lower
temperature.
The dyeing is carried out with Diamine Colours in combin-
ation with wool dyestuffs in a short bath, with the addition of
10^0 Glauber's salt crystals for light, and 20— 30 "^ o for medium
and dark shades, according to the one-bath method (see page 152).
Aftertreatments applied with a view to fixing the shades fast
to milling are described on page 153. The wool may also be
dyed first with wool dyestuffs fast to milling, the cotton being
subsequently covered with Immedial Colours (see page 162).
— 192 -
Shoddy, Wool Waste, Rags, etc.
For b 1 a c k, the following are particularly well suited :
Oxy Diamine Black JB, JW, JWF
Union Black OJGJ
Para Diamine Black B, BB, FFB, OAKH
Oxy Diamine Black US, SA
dyed direct, or, if better fastness to milling be required, after-
treated with 3*^/0 formaldehyde and l°/o bichrome for ^j^ hour
at 70^800 C. (160 — 175 deg. F.)
Deep blue is dyed with
Para Diamine Black B, BB, FFB, or
Oxy Diamine Black SA
in combination with
Formyl Violet, all brands
Brilliant Milling Green B
Formyl Blue B
aftertreated if necessary (like black) with formaldehyde and
bichrome.
For dyeing blacks on shoddy which contains
silk, in addition to cotton, Ox^ Diamine Black JW, JJVF\
are best suited. Dye as in the case of unions with the addition
of 20*^/0 Glauber's salt crystals ; enter into the bath which has
been previously brought to the boil, treat without steam for
^/2 hour, then boil gently for ^'2 hour, finally leaving the goods
to feed for ^/2 hour in the cooling bath. The fastness to
milling of the dyeing, in itself good, may be still further
enhanced by an aftertreatment with formaldehyde and bichrome,
or by coupling with Nitrazol,
It is well to add a little soda (0,2— 0,3^/o to the dyebath
when dyeing goods which have not been previously scoured and
may contain slight quantities of oil or grease.
— 193 — 13eii
Dyestuffs for Grey and /V\ode
q) Simplest and cheapest
method of production
b) Of better fastness to light
One-bath combinations of
Oxy Diamine Black FFC, JE,
JB, JW, JWF
Union Blue Black 2340J
Diamine Black BH, BHN
Direct Grey 2207J
Diamine Catechine B, 3G
Diamine Orange B
Diamine Fast Yellow B
Diamine Bordeaux VRO, B
shadded with
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
Lanacyl Violet B
Naphtol Blue Black
Azo Red A
Naphtol Blue G, R
Dve -with ^ji — 1 lb Glauber's salt
crystals per 10 gallons liquor, directions
page 152.
For two-bath d3-eings combinations of
Naphtol Yellow S
Indian Yellow FF
Orange extra, II
Azo Orseille BB
Lanafuchsine SB
Indigo Blue N
dyed boiling in an acid bath, rinsed,
and cotton-dyed in a cold liquor with
Diamine Fast Yellow A, B
Diamine Orange G, D
Diamine Black BH
Diamine Nitrazol Brown G
Diamine Brown S
and ';2 — 1 lb Glauber's salt crystals
and * 8 oz soda per 10 gallons.
Directions page 157.
One-bath combinations of
Diamine Fast Black F
Diamine Jet Black SS
Diamine Dark Blue B
Diaminogene B, extra
Diamine Fast Blue FFB, G
Diamine Catechine B, 3G
Diamine Fast Brown G, R, GB
Diamine Orange B, D, G
Diamine Fast Yellow B, FF, M
Diamine Bordeaux B
shaded with the
mentioned under (a).
wool dyestuffs
Dye with S-1 lb Glauber's salt
crystals per 10 gallons liquor; directions
page 152.
Two - bath djeings arc produced
with combinations of
Acid Yellow AT
Orange II, extra
Azo Orseille BB
Lanafuchsine SB, SG
Cyanole Green B, 6G
Cyanole Fast Green G
and after well rinsing the acid-dyed
goods, cotton- jyed with
Diamine Fast Yellow A, B
Diamine Orange G, D
Diamine Brown S
Diamine Black HW
Diamine Fast Blue FFB
and '/a lb Glauber's salt crystals
and * s oz soda per 10 gallons liquor.
Directions page 157.
— VJi
Shades on Unions and Shoddy.
c) Of good fastness to milling
for yarn and shoddy
d) For dyeings fast to milling
on yarn and shoddy, using
Immedial and Chrome Colours
For pale shades, the combinations
under (a1 and (b) for one-bath dyeing
are usually sufficient in point of fastness
to raiUing ; for medium and deep shades,
One- bath combinations
of the following dyestuffs are used, being
aftertrcated with metallic salts :
Diamine Fast Yellow B, FF
Diamine Orange B
Diamine Catechine B, 3 G
Diamine Brown M, 3 G
Oxy Diamine Brown RN
Diamineral Blue R
Diamine Daik Blue B
Diamine Jet Black SS, 00, Cr, RB
Union Black S
aftertreated with
bichrome and
acetic acid;
or, (with the exception of Diamine Jet
Black and Union Black S) with
bichrome
sulphate of copper
and acetic acid.
For shading the wool, the following
are used :
Anthracene Yellow C
Milling Red G
Wool Red B, BG
P^ormyl Blue B
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Brilliant Milling Green B.
Dye with '/a — 1 lbs Glauber's salt
crystals per 10 gallons liquor for yarn,
5 — 10°/o Glauber's salt crystals for
shoddy.
Dyeing instructions pages 152
and loi.
Combinations of
Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BB,
F, FD
Anthracene Chrome Red A
Anthracene Chrome Brown D,
DW, SWN
Anthracene Acid Brown G
Anthracene Yellow BN.
Dye according to Methods VIII- XI,
pages 9 — 12. After rinsing, dye the
cotton with
Immedial Yellow Olive G
Immedial Yellow Brown EN
Immedial Cutch O, G, R, BG,
BGG
Immedial Olive B, 3 G
Immedial Brown B, G, RR,
BR, W cone.
Immedial Dark Brown A
Immedial Dark Brown D cone,
Immedial Direct Blue B, R, OD
Immedial Black NN cone , NLN
cone, NBB cone, NB, NF etc.
Dye at 35" C. (95 deg. F.) with
the same weight of sodium sulphide
and double the weight of glucose as
of dyestuff, together with 3 oz soda
and '/2— 1 lb Glauber's salt ciystals
per 10 gallons liquor.
Directions page 162.
195
13*6 II
Dye stuffs for BroLun on
q) Simplest and cheapest
method of production
b) Of better fastness to light
One-bath dyeings :
Union Dark Brown A
Union Brown TD, 1926J, 20S9J
or combinations of
Diamine Red 4 B, 5 B, 10 B
Diamine Brown M, MR, R, 3G
BWA, GWA, 30a, 40, 42a, 43
Oxy Diamine Brown G, 3GN, RN
Diamine Catechine G, 3 G
Oxy Diamine Black A, JB, J\V,
JVVF
Para Diamine Black B, BB,
FFB, FF extra cone.
shaded with
Naphtylamine Black 4 B, 6 B
Naphtol Blue Black
Indian Yellow G, R, FF
Orange II, IV, extra
Tropaeoline 00.
Dye with 2 lbs Glauber's salt per
10 gallons liquor; directions page 152.
Shoddy materials are frequently
wool-dj-ed first in an acid bath with
combinations of
Cyanole Green B, 6 G
Cyanole Fast Green G
Acid Yellow AT
Indian Yellow G
Lanafuchsine SG, SB
Naphtol Red C, EB,
then rinsed and cotton-dyed in a fresh
cold to lukewarm bath for ''/4 — 1 hour
with 2*/2— 4: oz
Diamine Black RMW,
and 2 lbs Glauber's salt and */* oz
soda per 10 gallons liquor.
Directions page 157.
One-bath combinations of
Diamine Brown M, B
Diamineral Brown G
Diamine Fast Brown G, R, GB
Diamine Fast Red F
Union Black S
Diamine Dark Blue B
Diamine Fast Black F, X
Diamine Jet Black SS, Cr
RB,
00
FF, M
Diamine Fast Yellow B,
Diamine Yellow CP
shaded with
Naphtylamine Black 4 B, 6 B
Naphtol Blue Black
Indian Yellow G, R, FF
Orange II, IV, extra
Tropaeoline 00.
Dye with 2 lbs Glauber's salt per
10 gallons liquor; directions page 152.
Dyeing according to the two-bath
method is carried out as under (a) with
the dyestuflfs there mentioned, which
possess good fastness to light.
196
Unions and Shoddy.
c) Of good fastness to milling
for yarn and shoddy
d) For dyeings fast to milling
on yarn and shoddy^ using
Immedial ond Chrome Colours
One-bath combinations of
Diamine Brown M,
B, 3G
Oxv Diamine Brown
G, RN
Diamineral Brown G
Diamine Catechine G,
3G
Diamine Dark Blue B.
Diamine Fast Red F\
Diamine Jet Black SS, treated with
atter-
treated
with bi-
chromeand
acetic acid
or bi-
chrome,
sulphate of
copper, and
acetic acid.
bichronie
and acetic
acid.
after-
treated
with
foimal-
dehydeand
bichrome
OO, Cr
Union Black S
Oxy Diamine Black UI
Diamine Brown S,
MR, ATC
Diamine Catechine G
Diamine Fast Brown R
Oxy Diamine Black
SA, JB, JW, JWF
Para Diamine Black
B, BB, FFB
For shading the cotton, use the
following :
Diamine P'ast Yellow B, FF, A
Diamine Bordeaux B,
and for shading the wool :
Anthracene Yellow C
Brilliant Milling Green B
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Formyl Blue B
Formyl Violet lOB, S4B, S5B.
Dye yarn with 2 lbs salt per 10
gallons or shoddy with 20 °/o Glauber's
salt crystals, aftertrcating with
S'/o bichrome and acetic acid or
2''/o bichrome, 2"/o sulphate of copper and
3"/o acetic acid,
or S^/o formaldehyde and 1 "/o bichrome
at 70-80" C. (IGO— 175deg. F.) for
'2 hour. Directions pages 152 and 154.
Combinati
Anthracene
or
Anthracene
Anthracene
Anthracene
Anthracene
Anthracene
ons of
Chromate Brown
EB, 3G
Chrome Red A
Chrome Brown D,
DW, A, SWN
Acid Brown B, G,
N, R, V
Chrome Blue G, B,
BB, R
Acid Black SR, ST,
DSN.
Dye the respective dyestuffs
according to the directions on pages
9-12, Methods VIII— XI, rinse well,
and, in order to dye the cotton, enter
the material into a lukewarm bath char-
ged according to the shade desired with
Immedial Brown B, G, RR,
BR, W cone.
Immedial Dark Brown A
Immedial Dark Brown D cone.
Immedial Cutch O, G, R, BG,
BGG
Immedial Maroon B cone.
Immedial Bordeaux G cone.
Immedial Black NN cone.
Dye with an equal quantity of
sodium sulphide crystals and double
the quantity of glucose as of dyestufif,
3 oz soda and (according to the depth
of shade) with 'a— 3 lbs Glauber's salt
ciystals per 10 gallons; enter the
material at 35" C. (95 deg. F.), and
leave for 2-3 hours or overnight
immersed in the liquor.
Directions page 162.
— 197 —
Dyestuffs for Pink, Red and Claret on Unions
and Shoddy.
a) Simplest and cheapest
b) Of good fastness to milling
method of production
for yarn and Shoddy.
Pink.
Pink.
Diamine Rose BD, GD, BG
Direct Rose T
Direct Rose T
Rosazeine B
Oxy Diamine Red S
Red.
shaded with
Erythrosine B, D, extra N
Rosazeine B
Diamine Fast Red F, aftertreated
with chromium fluoride ;
Irisamine G
Primuline
diazoti-
shaded with
sed and
Yellowing agents: •
Wool Red B
develo-
ped with
Beta
Diamine Orange F;
*Diamine Azo Scarlet
for yellowish shades
A, B
Xaphtol
Diamine Scarlet B
may likewise be used.
Claret.
Red.
Diamine Azo Bordeaux'
Diamine Red 4B, 5B, 6B, lOB,
shaded with B
lOlJ
Diamine Purpurine B, 3B, 6B, V
Wool Red B
diazoti-
Formyl Violet S4B
sed and
develo-
Diamine Scarlet B, 3B
or
ped with
Diamine Fast Scarlet GG, 4BX,
Primuline
Beta
Naphtol
6BS, 6BGN, 8BN
shaded with
Cotton Red A.
Diamine Azo Blue RR
For very bright shades of scarlet,
Formyl Violet S4B
Diamine Scarlet B
Dye with '/a— 2 lbs Glauber's shIc
shaded with
per 10 gallons liquor for yarn, with
Rosazeine B or
10_20»/o Glauber's salt for shoddy.
Diazotising and developing is car-
Diamine Orange D is used.
ried out according to the directions on
Claret.
Diamine Bordeaux B, S, VRO
page 156.
* Diamine Azo Scarlet, i
1 used for
Oxy Diamine Violet G, R
shaded with
dyeing wool and cotton uniformlv, is
dyed at 70— SO" C. (160 — 175 deg.'F.).
Diamine Azo Bordeaux and Primuline
Wool Red B, BG
may likewise be applied at this temper-
Croceine AZ
ature for cotton dyeing after the de-
Formyl Violet S4B, S5B, HW.
veloping; the wool is in this case sha-
ded in an acid bath.
Dye according to the depth of shade
with '/2-2 lbs Glauber's salt crystals
per 10 gallons liquor. Directions page
152.
— VJS
Dyestuffs for Bright Blue, Purple, Green, Veilou; and
Orange on Unions and Shoddy.
Blue and Purple
(Deep Blue see next page)
Green, VelloLU and Orange
(Dark Green and Olive, page 202)
One-bath dyeings :
Union Blue BJ, RJ
or combinations of
Diamine Sky Blue, FF, FFS
Diamine Pure Blue A
Oxy Diamine Blue 5G, 3G, G, B, R
Diamine Blue BB, 3B
Diamine Brilliant Blue G
Diamineral Blue CV
Diamine Violet N, BB, RB,
2004J, 2005J
Diamine Heliotrope B, O, G
shaded with
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Formyl Blue B
Alkaline Blue 6B— 3R
Brilling ^Milling Green B
Formyl Violet lOB, 8B, 6B,
S4B, S5B, HW
Alkaline Violet C, CA.
Dye as on page 15:', brightening
the cotton if necessary in a fresh cold
bath with the addition of 2— li°/o ace-
tic acid with
Methylene Blue BB
New Methylene Blue N
A^ictoria Blue B
Methyl Violet 6B-4R
Crystal Violet 5B bluish, lOB.
Bright blues and purples may also
be obtained by dyeing the wool in an
acid bath with wool dyestuffs and then
cotton-dyeing with
Diamine Sky Blue, FF, FFS
Diamine Pure Blue A
Diamine Blue BB, 3B
Diamine Heliotrope G, O, B
in a cold bath, directions page 157;
or, cotton-dyeing with the above Basic
Colours after suitable mordanting with
tannin and antimony ; directions page
Green.
One bath combinations of
Diamine Sky Blue, FF, FFS
Diamine Pure Blue A
Oxy Diamine Blue 5G
Oxy Diamine Yellow GG, TZ
Thioflavine S
Diamine Fast Yellow M, 3G
shaded with
Brilliant Milling Green B
Naphtaline Yellow crystals.
Dye with Va — 2 lbs Glauber's salt
crystals per 10 gallons liquor, topping
if necessary with
Brilliant Green crystals extra
Solid Green crystals O
Malachite Green cone.
with the addition of 2- S'/o acetic acid.
Directions pages 152 and 153.
Yellow and Orange.
One-bath combinations of
Thioflavine S
Oxy Diamine Yellow GG, TZ
Diamine Fast Yellow A, AGG,
AR, B, FF, 3G, M
Diamine Orange B, G, D, F
Oxy Diamine Orange G, R
shaded with
Naphtaline Yellow crystals
Indian Yellow FF, G, R
Tropaeoline G, OO
Orange extra, R, ENZ.
Direcions page 152.
199
Dyestuffs for Deep Blue \\
a) Simplest and cheapest
mettiod of production
b) Of better fastness to light
One-bath d3-cings :
Union Blue 806, OHDF
Union Navy Blue 780J
or combinations of
Oxy Diamine Blue G, 3G
Diamine Bengal Blue G, R
Diamineral Blue R, CV
Diamine Black BH, BHN, BHR
Union Blue Black 2340J
Oxy Diamine Black A, SA, J\V,
KW, JWF
Para Diamine Black B, BB, FFB
shaded with
Formyl Violet lOB, SB, 6B,
S4B, S5B, HW
Alkaline Violet CA, C
Formyl Blue B
Brilliant Milling Green B
Dye according to directions on page 152.
In order to produce as bright shades
as possible, dark shoddy maierials are
dyed by the two-bath method.
After fiist dyeing the cotton, either
in the milling or in a bath of 50— G0»
C. (120—140 deg. F.) with
Diamine Milling Black B cone,
FG extra, FFB extra cone.
Para Diamine Black B, BB, FFB
Oxy Diamine Black UI, US, SA,
dye the wool in an acid bath with
Acid Violet 6BS
Formyl Violet, all brands
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Brilliant Wool Blue RB, BG ;
or, the wool is dyed first and the
cotton subsequently in the washing
machine or in the vat with
Diamine Black BH and RMW
according to the directions pages 157-161.
By the latter method the brightest
shades arc obtained
One- bath combinations of
Diamine Fast Blue FFB, G
Diamine Dark Blue B
Union Black S
Diamine Jet Black SS
shaded with
Lanacyl Blue BB, R
Lanacyl Violet B
Lanacyl Navy Blue B
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Formyl Violet lOB, SB, 6B, S4B,
Formyl Blue B [S5B, HW
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Naphtol Blue Black
Naphtol Blue Black 6B
For shading the cotton towards red,
(he following are used :
Diamine Heliotrope B
Oxy Diamine Violet B
Diamine Bordeaux B.
Directions for dyeing page 152
Piece-goods, with a view to obtain-
ing good fastness to perspiration and
wearing, are frequently dyed by the
two-bath method with
Diamine Black BH and BHR,
dyeing the cotton in a bath of 50—60" C.
(120— 140 deg. F ), developing with Beta
Naphtol (page 160) and Cioss dyeing
in an acid bath with
Azo Wool Blue SE, SER
Azo Navy Blue B, 3B
Acid Navy Blue A
Brilliant Naphtol Blue B, R, 4B
Lanacvl Blue BB, R
Lanacyl Navy Blue B, BB
Alphanol Blue BR extra.
If the reverse method of wool-
dyeing first, then covering the cotton,
and finally diazotising and developing
be applied,
Azo Wool Blue SE, SER
Azo Navy Blue B, 3B
mav be used.
— 200
on Unions and Shoddy.
c) Of good fasiness to millinc
for yarn and shoddy
d) For dyeings fast to milling on yarn
and shoddy, using Immedial and
Clirome Colours
One-bath dyeings of
Diamineral Blue I iiftertreated with
cvl
R,
bichrome and
acetic acid or
Diamine Dark bichrome,
Blue BJsulphate of copper
and acetic acid
Diamine Jet Black SS, 00,
CR, RB, aftertreated with
bichrome and acetic acid
in combination with
Formyl Violet lOB, 8B, 6B,
S4B, S5B
Alkaline Violet C, CA
Formyl Blue B
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Brilliant Milling Green B.
For very deep blues, the following
are also well adapted :
Para Diamine Black
B, FFB
Oxy Diamine Black
SA, A, JW, JWF
in combination with
Formyl Violet
aftertreated
nth .S'o for-
maldehyde
and l^/o
bichrome.
Di'e yarn with 2 lbs Glauber's salt
per 10 gallons liquor, shoddy with 20''/o
Glauber's salt crystals, from boiling
hot to boiling.
Directions page 152.
Shoddy and yarn, for obtaining
best possible fastness to milling, are
wool-dyed previously with
Anthracene Chrome Blue BB,
F, FD, FR
Anthracene Acid Blue D, BB,
3B, BBN
Formyl Violet lOB, S4B, S5B
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Brilliant Milling Green B,
rinsed, then cotton-dj'ed for 2 — 3 hours
or overnight in a bath of 30 — 35' C.
(85—95 deg. F.) with
Immedial Direct Blue B, R, OD
Immedial Black NN cone, NBB
cone , NNR cone., NLN
cone , etc.
with the addition of the same weight
of sodium sulphide crystals and double
the weight of glucose as of dyestuff,
as well as 3 oz soda and 2\'2 — 3 lbs
Glauber's salt crystals per 10 gallons
liquor.
Directions page 162.
201
Dyestuffs for Dark Green and
Q) Simplest and cheapest
method of production
b) Of better fastness to light
One-bath combinations of
One-bath combinations of
Diamine Dark Green N
Diamine Green B, G, CL, BO,
Oxy Diamine Black JE
2209J, 2210J
Oxy Diamine Blue 5G
Diamine Dark Green N
Diamine Steel Blue L, 2206J
Diamine Black HW
Diamine Yellow CP
Diamine Fast Black F
Diamine Fast Yellow A, B,FF, :SI
Diamine Yellow CP
Diamine Orange B
Diamine Fast Yellow A, B, FF,
Diamine Catechine G, 3G
M, 3G
Oxy Diamine Brown G, 3GN
Diamine Orange B, D, G
Diamine Brown 3G
Diamineral Brown G
shaded with
Xaphtol Blue Black
shaded with
Xaphtol Dark Green G
Naphtol Blue Black
Brilliant Milling Green B
Xaphtol Dark Green G
Indian Yellow G, R, FF
Brilliant Milling Green B
Tropaeoline OO
Indian Yellow G, R
Orange extra, 11, IV, ENZ.
Orange extra, II, IV, EXZ
Dye with 2 lbs salt per 10 gallons
Tropaeoline G, OO.
liquor as per directions page 152.
Dye with 2 lbs Glauber's salt
Shoddy tuaferiah, in order to
per 10 gallons liquor as under (a).
obtain sufficient brightness, are usually
dyed bj- the two-bath method, being
By the two-bath method dye as
first wool-dyed in an acid bath with
under (a) with the dyestuflfs named there
combinations of the following :
which possess good fastness to light.
Cyanole Green B, 6G
Cvanole Fast Green G
Azo ^VooI Blue SE, SER
Acid Yellow AT
Orange extra, IT, IV, EXZ
Tropaeoline G, OO
Lanafuchsine SG
then rinsed, and cotton-dyed in a cold
to lukewarm bath with
Diamine Black RMW
Diamine Black BH
Diamine Fast Yellow B
Diamine Orange D
with the addition of Glauber's salt.
as per directions page 157.
Oliue on Unions and Shoddy.
c) Of good fastness to milling
for yarn and shoddy
d) For dyeings Tost to milling on yarn
and shoddy, using Immediol and
Chrome Colours
One-bath combinations of
The wool is dyed first fast to
Diamine Green G
aftertreated with
milling with combinations of
Diamine Bronze
chromium
Anthracene Chrome Blue G
G
fluoride or
Anthracene Chrome Brown D,
Diamine Fast
chrome alum
and acetic acid.
DW, SWN
Yellow B
Anthracene Chrome Red A
or
Anthracene Acid Brown G
Union Black S
ct;
Anthracene Yellow BN
Diamine Jet Black SS
6-
Brilliant Milling Green B;
Diamineral Blue R
5 ?
after rinsing, the cottoa is dyed in a
Diamine Deep Blue B, R
pi_
fresh bath with
Oxy Diamine Brown G,
3 s
> 2^ rt-
Immedial Dark Green B
RN
n ^
Immedial Deep Green G
Diamine Catechine G, 3G
^.1
Immedial Green BB extra, GG
Diamine Fast Yellow
P
extra
B, FF
5-
Immedial Brilliant Green G extra
) /
Immedial Olive B, GG, 3G
Immedial Yellow Olive G
For shading the wool,
Immedial Yellow D
Brilliant Milling Green B
Immedial Yellow Brown EN"
Anthracene Yellow C
Immedial Cutch G, BG, BGG
Formyl Blue B
adding an equal weight of sodium
are used.
sulphide and double the weight of glu-
cose as of dyestuff, as well as 3 oz soda
and 1 — 3 lbs Glauber's salt crystals per
Dye yarn with 2 lbs Glauber's
10 gallons liquor, and dyeing for 1 — 2
salt per lU gallons liquor, and shoddy
hours or overnight at 30—35* C.
with 20^/0 Glauber's salt crystals as per
(85-95 deg. F )
direction on page 152. Aftertreatment
Directions on page 172.
as indicated on page 15i.
203
Dyestuffs for Black
q) Simplest and cheapest
method of production
b) Of better fastness to light
For one-bath dyeings :
Union Black OJGJ, 1993 J
Union Jet Black B
or
Oxv Diamine Black A, D, FFC,
SA, JE, JEI, JW, JWF, US
Para Diamine Black B, BB,
FFB, FF extra cone
in combination with
Naphtylamine Black 4 B, 6 B,
X2B, X3B, 4BX, D, BB, BBN,
BBV, 3BV, R, RXB, NBB
Alphanol Black BG, R
shaded if necessary with
Indian Yellow G, R, FF
Orange II, extra, IV
Formvl Violet lOB, 8B, 6B,
S4B, S5B, HW
Forniyl Blue B.
Dye with 2—4 lbs Glauber's salt
crystals per 10 gallons liquor, boiling
hot to boiling, acco. ding to requirement.
Directions on page 152.
Shoddy goods are frequently dyed
by the two bath method in the milling
machine with
Diamine T^lilling Black B cone,
FG extra, FFB extra cone.
Para Diamine Black BB
Oxy Diamine Black UI, US
or with the same dyestuffs in the dye
beck atSO-P.O" C. (1 0-140 deg. F.),
the wool then being dyed in a boiling
acid bath with
Naphtylamine Black S, ESN,
4BS, etc.
Naphtylamine Blue Black B, 5B.
Directions on page 159.
One-bath dyeings:
Union Black P, BG, BB, 3B, S
Union Fast Black J
Diamine Fast Black F
in combination with
Naphtylamine Black 4 B, 6B,
X2B, X3B, 4BN, D, BB, BBX,
BBV, 3BV, R, RNB, NBB
Alphanol Black BG, R
Neutral Wool Black G, B, 4B
Naphtol Blue Black
Naphtol Dark Green G
shaded with
Indian Yellow G, R, FF
Orange II, IV, extra
Formvl Violet lOB, 8B, 6B,
S4B, S5B, HW
Formyl Blue B.
Dye as indicated under (a).
Ladies' costii7Jie cloths and linitigs
are frequently dyed by the two-bath
method by first d\-eing the cotton with
Diamine Black BH, BHR
at 50—60° C. (120—140 deg. F.) with
the addition of Glauber's salt, then
diazotising and developing with Pheny-
lene Diamine or Phenylene Diamine
and Beta-Xaphtol, and finally cross-
dyeing in an acid bath with
Naphtylamine Black 4B, 6 B, S,
or ESN etc.
Naphtylamine Blue Black B, 5B.
Directi(jns on page ICO.
— 204 -
on Unions and Shoddy.
c) Of good fastness lo milling
for yarn and shoddy
d) For dyeings fast to milling
on yarn and shoddy, using
Immedial and Chrome Colours
One-bath dyeings:
Union Black S | tr'l^at'ed
Oxy Diamine Black with bi-
UI, USr'^''°'"^^'^'J
acetic acid
Oxy Diamine Black UI, US,
SA, JEI, JB, J\V, JVVF
Para Diamine Black B, BB, FFB
aftertreated with
S^/o formaldehyde and
1 " bichrome
according to directions on page 155.
Or,
*Oxy Diamine Black JW
coupled in the rinsing bath with
3»'o Nitrazol C
as per directions on page 155.
Dye yarn with 2—4 lbs Glauber's
salt crystals per 10 gallons liquor,
shoddy with 20— 30"/o Glauber's salt
crystals, at the simmer. (Directions
on page 152.)
The aftertreatment, unless the
liquor is to be used over again, is
carried out in the dyebath after com-
pleting the dyeing, but to better
advantage in a fresh liquor, either with
bichrome and acetic acid for \'g hour
at 50-60° C. (120—140 deg. F), with
formaldehyde and bichrome for '/a
hour at 70-80" C. (160—175 deg,
F.) or with formaldehyde and acetic
acid for */a hour cold or lukewarm.
The colour marked with an
asterisk (*) may be used as a black
fast to cross-dyeing.
Shoddy is dyed with best possible
fastness by wool-dyeing fiist with
Anthracene Acid Black DSN,
SR, SBB
Anthracene Chrome Black F,
FE, PPN extra, PF extra,
PFB extra, PFBB extra,
according to Methods VIII and IX,
pages 9 and 10, and rinsing and dyeing
the cotton in a fresh bath charged with
7 — lO^lo Immedial Black cone.
7— lO^'o sodium sulphide cryst.
14-20'''o glucose
3 oz soda Iper 10 gallons
3 lbs Glauber's salt J liquor
Directions on page 162.
For dissolving Immedial Black,
boil the dyestuff, sodium sulphide and
glucose for 10 — 15 minutes, add this
solution, the soJa and Glauber's salt
to the lukewarm dyebath, enter the
material at 35" C. (95 deg. F.), and
leave immersed in the liquor for
2—4 hours or even overnight until
the cotton is sufficiently well covered.
Then rinse thoroughly, sour off
weakly, and aftertreat with acetate or
formate of soda; see directions on
page 214.
The above-mentioned dyestuffs are
exceedingly fast to light.
205
Dyeing of Unions.
Dyeing of Unions containing Silk.
Fabrics consisting of wool, cotton and silk are a little more
difficult to dye than goods of wool and cotton; their dyeing
necessitates a good knowledge of the dyestuffs to be used, and
of their behaviour towards the three different fibies.
The goods are produced either in one solid shade or in
tii'o or three shades; in the two latter cases either
1) the wool and silk are dyed to the same shade, the
cotton being dyed a different shade, or
2) the cotton is dyed first, the wool and silk being dyed
subsequently either the same or two different shades ;
or again
3) the wool is dyed first, the cotton and silk being dyed
subsequently either the same or two different shades.
a) Solid Shades.
These are dyed with Diamine Colours in combination with
wool dyestuffs by the one-bath method customary for unions. For
this purpose such Diamine Colours are selected which,
suitably applied, dye the wool, cotton and silk the same, or
approximately the same, shade.
In the majority of cases, the goods, as with ordinary cotton
and wool mixed goods, have to be shaded with neutral-dyeing
wool dyestuffs which at a lower temperature go more strongly
on to the silk and at a higher temperature are absorbed more
readily by the wool fibre.
Diamine CoIo7irs which dye JJool, Cotton and Silk approx-
imately the same shade.
Thioflavine S Diamine Rose BD, GD
Oxy Diamine Yellow GG, TZ Diamine Scarlet B, 3B, HS
Diamine Fast Yellow 3G, M Diamine Red 4B, 5B
Diamine Orange B, F Diamine Fast Red F
Diamine Catechine G, 3G Diamine Bordeaux B, S
Diamine Brown R, M, BWA, Diamine Brilliant Bordeaux R
GWA Diamine Violet X, 2205J
Diamine Brown Xo. 40, 42, 44, Oxy Diamine Violet B, G
Oxy Diamine Brown G, 3GN Diamine Blue RW
Diamineral Brown G Diamine Bengal Blue G
Union Brown 1926J, 2089J Oxy Diamine Blue 5G, 3G, G
— 206 —
Dyeing of Unions containing Silk.
Diamine Steel Blue L, 2206J Diamine Black HW
Diamine Green B, G, CL, Union Black S
2209J, 2210J Oxy Diamine Black SOOO, N,
Diamine Dark Green N J W, JWF, JB.
Wool Dycstuffs for the shading of 11 00/ and Silk.
Milling Yellow O
Indian Yellow G, Y¥
Orange extra, R, EN
*BrilIiant Cochineal 4R
Roccelline
Croceine AZ
Rosazeine B
Irisamine G
Wool Red B, BG
Milling Red G
Brilliant Milling Green B
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Formyl Blue B
The dyestuffs marked
leaving the silk practically
Formyl Violet S4B
Alkaline Violet CA, C
*Lanacyl Violet B
*Lanacyl Blue BB, R
*Lanacyl Navy Blue B, BB
*Naphtol Blue G, R
Wool Blue OD, OC, OJF
*Naphtol Blue Black
*Naphtol Dark Green G
Alphanol Blue BR extra
Alphanol Black BG, R
Neutral Wool Black B, G.
with an asterisk (*) dye only the wool,
unstained.
Dyeing Directions for .Solid Shades.
Dye with
V2-2 lbs Glauber's salt crystals per 10 gallons liquor,
according to the depth of shade required, and the requisite
Diamine Colours in combination if necessary with the wool dye-
stuffs suited for the purpose; enter the goods at 50 — 60*^ C.
(120-140 deg. F.), raise gradually to the boil, boil for 20-30
minutes, and finally run for about ^/2 hour in the cooling bath.
If the wool is too pale, the temperature is raised once more
to boiling temperature and the wool shaded if necessary with
wool dyestuffs ; prolonged boiling is to be avoided as it causes
the dyestuff" to come off the cotton and silk, boiling on to the
wool which is then apt to turn out too dark. If the cotton
and sill: are too pale, a temperature below boiling point
(50 — 60° C. or 120 — 140 deg. F.) is maintained, the necessary
Diamine Colours and wool dyestuffs being added to the bath.
The silk alone is best shaded in a fresh cold to lukewarm bath
with the addition of about 5^/o acetic acid with Acid Colours
which go easily on to silk and stain wool as little as possible.
207
Dyeing of Unions.
Dyestuf's for suhseqiicntly dyeing the Silk.
Milling Yellow O, 00 Brilliant Milling Green B
Indian Yellow G Tetra Cyanole V, A
Tropaeolinc RNP Cyanole FF, extra
Orange ENZ, R Indigo Blue N, SGN
Croceine AZ Formyl Blue B
Brilliant Croceine M Brilliant Milling Blue B
Milling Red FR Water Blue B
Amaranth Wool Blue TB
Azo Orseille BB Formyl Violet S4B, 10 B
Lanafuchsine 6 B Acid Violet 6 BS
Acid Magenta Xaphtol Blue G, R
Rosazeine B Xaphtol Blue Black
Acid Green extra cone. Naphtylamine Black ESN.
The Basic Colours mentioned on pages 136 and 137 go
particularly well on to silk when dyed in a cold bath with the
addition of a little acetic acid, but they stain the wool more
than these Acid Colours and also go on to the cotton fibre.
The following are useful combinations of dyestuffs for
producing solid shades by the one-bath method:
For Pink:
Diamine Rose BD
Rosazeine B
For Red:
Diamine Scarlet B or
Diamine Red 4B
shaded if necessary with
Rosazeine B.
For Claret:
2*^/0 Diamine Bordeaux S
2 ^\q Diamine Bordeaux B
0,3% Diamine Orange D.
For Prune:
4,00% Oxy Diamine Violet B
0,25% Formyl Violet S4B.
For Coffee:
4 "/o Diamine Brown M
0,3% Formyl Blue B.
— 208 —
I
J
Dyeing of Unions containing Silk.
For Y e 1 1 f ) w - B r o w n :
3 "/o Diamine Brown R
0,3 "/o Diamine Orange D
0,1% Formyl Blue B.
For Pale Green:
1,25 "^/o Diamine Green B
1 o/o Diamine Sky Blue FF
1,250/0 Oxy Diamine Yellow TZ
1,1 0/0 Brilliant Milling Green B
or
3°/o Diamine Green 2209 J.
ForDarkGreen:
4 *^/o Diamine Green B or Diamine Dark Green N
0,4 °/o Brilliant Milling Green B.
For Navy Blue:
2 °/o Diamineral Blue R or CV
1 0/0 Oxy Diamine Black JW or JWF
0,5 0/0 Formyl Blue B
1,25 «/o Formyl Violet lOB.
For Black:
8 0/0 Oxy Diamine Black JB, JW or JWF
0,5*^/0 Formyl Violet 10 B.
For the production of pale shades, it is frequently an
advantage to dye the wool and silk approximately to shade in
an acid bath and to subsequently cotton -dye with Diamine
Colours in a fresh, cold bath in accordance with the directions
on pages 157 and 158 without however adding any soda or
ammonia. In this way it is easier very often to produce a
good uniform shade on the different fibres.
The dyebaths do not exhaust, especially with dark shades,
and may be preserved for dyeing further lots.
b) Multi- Coloured Dyeings.
The following dyestuffs arc very siiitalle for dyeing solid
shades on wool and silk in cases zvhere the cotton is dy?d some
other shade S7(hseqnently :
— 209 — 14eii
Dyeing of Unions.
Foi
ale shades:
China Yelk)w B
Indian Yellow G, R, FF
Orange extra, R
Azo Orseille BB
Rosazeine B
Cyanole extra FF, AB
Tetra Cyanole V, SF, extra
Indigo Blue N, SGN
Acid Green extra cone.
Fast Acid Green BN
Cyanole Fast Green G
Acid Violet 6BS, 6BC.
For m p d i u
nd deep shades:
Indian Yellow G, R, FF
Tropaeoline 00, RNP
Orange EN
Croceine AZ
Brilliant Croceine, all brands
Scarlet EC
Roccelline
Tetra Cyanole A
Brilliant Milling Green B
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Formyl Blue B
Dye with the addition of
10*^/0 Glauber's salt and
10 — 15^,0 bisulphate of soda, or
15—200/0 Glauber's salt and
4—5 ^jo sulphuric acid;
goods at 600 Q (140 deg. F.),
Formyl Violet S4B, 6B, 8B, lOB
Alkaline Violet C, CA
Water Blue B, R, RB
Wool Blue TB
""Naphtylamine Black 4B, 6B, R
*Naphtyl Blue Black N
Neutral Wool Black B, G, *4B
*Alphanol Black BG, R
*Gloria Black B, I, II
"Anthracite Black B, R.
I
with
enter the
ise in ^'2 hour to
the boil, and run for ^ji hour at boiling temperature. By pro-
longed boiling in the presence of only a small quan-
tity of acid the wool is apt to assume a deeper shade
than the silk; the latter on the other hand is more
strongly dyed at a lower temperature and with a
larger quantity of acid.
Of the above-named dyestuffs, those marked with an
asterisk (*) are dyed with lO^/o Glauber's salt and lO^/o acetic
acid 300/0, or with 3 — 40/0 formic acid 85^ jo. Enter the goods
at 600 C. (140 deg. F.), raise in '/o tour to the boil, boil
gently for ^{2 hour, then run for another ^/o hour in the bath
whilst cooling off. If the wool has by then attained the desired
shade, the silk may be given a subsequent shading in a fresh,
cold bath with the dyestuffs named on page 208.
The cotton is dyed subsequently as indicated on pages 157
and 158 without however adding any soda or ammonia.
Dyeing of Unions containing Silk.
_'. For first Jyeiiig the cotton port/on of goods of ivhich
the wooi and silk part is to lie dyed stdjseqticntly^ dycstuffs fast
to acid cross-dyeing viust he tised. Diazotised and developed
colours are used, for this purpose.
For Black:
Diamine Black BH, BHN, ] diazotised and developed with
BHR \ Beta Naphtol or Beta Naph-
Diamine Azo Black B ^ol and Phenylene Diamine.
For Blue:
For CI
Diaminogene Blue NB, NA,
3RN
Diamine Azo Blue RR
Diamine Azo Bordeaux B
diazotised and developed
with Beta Naphtol.
Dye at 40— 50<^ C. (105—120 deg. F.) with the addition of
1 — P/2 lb Glauber's salt crystals per 10 gallons liquor, adding
3 — 41/2 oz soap per 10 gallons to prevent the dyestuffs as far as
possible from going on to the wool and silk.
After rinsing lightly, diazotise and develop (see page 160),
then rinse again, and dye the wool and silk to any required
shade. The wool is dyed as indicated below, under (3), the
silk according to the directions on pages 207 and 208.
3. Dyeing the wool so as to leave the silk and cotton ivhite.
The following dyestuffs are well adapted for dyeing the wool :
For compound shades (grey, mode, brown, olive etc.):
Acid Yellow AT
Naphtol Yellow S
Orange GG
Lanafuchsine SG, SB
Cyanole ¥Y, extra
Azo Wool Blue C.
For Yellow and Orange:
Naphtol Yellow S
Acid Yellow AT
Fast Yellow S
Orange GG
Lanafuchsine SG, for shading towards Red.
— 211 — 14-s*e II
Dj'eing of Unions.
For Pink, Red and Claret:
Eosine 3G, CtGF, BN
Eosine Scarlet B
Brilliant Scarlet 6R
Crystal Scarlet 4R
Brilliant Cochineal 2R
Lanafuchsine SG, SB, 6B
Naphtol Red C
Azo Wool Violet 7R.
For Xavv and Deep Blue:
Azo Wool Blue C
shaded if necessary with
Azo Wool Violet 7R
Lanafuchsine 6B
Orange GG
Acid Yellow AT.
For Purple:
Azo Wool Violet 7R
shaded with
Azo Wool Blue C
Cyanole FF, extra.
For Green:
Acid Green extra cone., 5G
Naphtol Green B
Naphtol Dark Green G
shaded with
Acid Yellow AT
Orange GG
Azo Wool Blue C.
For Black:
Naphtylamine Black EFF
for jet black, shaded with
Orange GG
Acid Yellow AT.
Colours, with the exception of pinks and reds produced
with Eosine and Eosine Scarlet B, are dyed with
lO^/o Glauber's salt crystals
8— 150/0 acetic acid 30% 'or
1V2-2V2% f-'i-mic acid 85%
— 212 -
Dyeing of Unions containing Silk.
and the requisite quantities of dyestuff; enter the goods at the
boil, boil hard for about an hour, rinse, and sour off' with
acetic or formic acid in the last rinsing bath. The severer
the boiling and the more acid the dyebath contains,
the less will the silk be stained.
Eosine or Eosine Scarlet B are dyed with
10 °/o Glauber's salt crystals
2— 5"/o acetic acid 30%.
Enter the goods at 50 — 600 C. (120-140 deg. F), raise in
^1-2 hour to the boil, boil for 30 — 40 minutes, rinse, and brighten
as indicated above.
For Blacks, charge the bath with
10°/o Glauber's salt crystals,
2% formic acid 85%
and the requisite dyestuflF, enter the goods at boiling temperature,
boil for ^4 hour, then add gradually another
2% formic acid 85%;
boil well for a further 20 — 30 minutes, and rinse. The silk is
thereupon cleared if necessary, either with a solution of hydro-
sulphite or in some other suitable manner, and dyed with
suitable dyestuff's (see page 209) to the desired shade in a cold
to lukewarm acidulated bath. For directions for clearing the silk
see page 224.
The siibsctptent dyeing of the cotton is then carried out in
a cold bath according to the directions on pages 157 and 158,
omitting however any addition of soda or ammonia.
213 —
Dyeing of Unions.
The Application of Acetate or Formate of Soda
for Union Fabrics.
Unions dyed in an acid bath, in si)ite of the most careful
rinsing, are apt to retain some of the acid which during the
storage of goods may have a deleterious effect on the cotton
portion.
In order to neutralise any effect of this kind on the part
of the acid, it is well after rinsing to take the goods through
a cold bath containing 4^/2 — 8 oz acetate or formate of soda
per 10 gallons, and to dry without rinsing again.
The same treatment is very advantageous for union goods
which have been bleached with sulphurous acid or in the
sulphur stove.
Particularly is this treatment to be recommended for union
fabrics of which the cotton portion has been dyed with
Sulphide Blacks.
The impregnation with acetate or formate of soda may be
carried out either in the washing machine or by padding in the
padding machine. In the latter case the trough is charged with
8 oz of the afore -mentioned salts per 10 gallons water, further
2 % (reckoned on the weight of the material) being added
gradually for replenishing the liquor. The goods treated in this
manner are dried without rinsing.
Dyeing of Materials composed of Wool J
and Silk.
Dyeing of Materials composed of Wool and Silk.
Dyeing of Gentlemen' s Suitings.
See page 91,
Dyeing of Ladies' Dress Materials.
Preliminary Treatment of the Materials. For goods
consisting of grege warp and worsted weft it is recommended
after singeing to resort to hot crabbing or steaming, and to
boil off in a boiling hot soap bath. Goods with effect threads
of boiled-off or Chappe Silk (dress materials etc.) are singed
or cropped and crabbed or steamed, then well washed with
soap and soda. The dye-vats customary for wool piece-dyeing,
worked either by machinery or by hand are used for these goods.
Fabrics of wool and silk are produced either in one shade
(plain) or in two shades.
I. Plain Shades.
Solid shades may be dyed on the wool and silk either
a) with Acid Colours, which are used principally and
are available for practically any shade, or
b) with Diamine Colours which are used more for the
production of dyeings fast to water and washing.
Basic Colours are used less frequently, although they
dye wool and silk uniformly, particularly in light shades.
a) Acid Colours.
The following are used principally:
For Cream, Yellow and Orange:
China Yellow B
Indian Yellow, all brands
Orange EN, R, extra
For Pink
Rosazeine B
Irisamine G
in combination it necessary with
Acid Magenta or Erythrosine B.
— 217 —
Dyeing of Materials composed of Wool and Silk.
For Red and Claret;
V o r P u r p I
For Blue:
Brilliant Croceine, all brands
Croceine AZ
Scarlet EC
Roccelline
for claret, saddened with
Acid Violet 6 BS
Formyl Violet S4B
Tetra Cyanole A.
e:
Formyl Violet, all brands
Acid Violet 6 BS, 6 BC.
Cyanole FF, extra (principally for pale shades)
Tetra Cyanole, all brands
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Formyl Blue B
Pure Soluble Blue
Water Blue B, R
Indigo Blue N, SGN
Alkaline Blue, all brands
F or Navy Blu e :
Solid Blue R, 3 R
Wool Blue TB
shaded if necessary with
Formyl Violet, all brands
Brilliant Milling Green B
and saddened with
Anthracite Black R.
For Ci r e e n :
Cyanole Fast Green G
Brilliant Milling Green B
Acid Green extra cone.
shaded with
China Yellow B
Indian Yellow, all brands
Tetra Cyanole A
Acid Violet 6BS
for dark green saddened with
Formvl Violet S4B
Woof Blue TB
Orange EN.
- 218 —
Solid Shades.
For Grey and Mo-de Shades:
Combinations of
Indian Yellow G
Orange extra
Azo Orseiile BB
Tetra Cyanole V
Cyanole Fast Green G.
For Brown and Olive:
Combinations of
Indian Yellow G, P'F
Tropaeoline RNP
Orange extra
Croceine AZ
Roccelline
Tetra Cyanole A
Brilliant Milling Green B.
For Black:
^^ Gloria Black B, I, II
* Anthracite Black B, R
Naphtylamine Black 4B, 6B
*Neutral Wool Black B, G, 4B
shaded if necessary with
Formyl Violet
Formyl Blue B
Brilliant Milling Green B or with
Indian Yellow R
Tropaeoline RNP (for jet black).
Dye with the addition of
10*/o Glauber's salt crystals and
10 — 15"/o bisulphate of soda, or with
15— 20'*/o Glauber's salt crystals and
4 — 5 "/o sulphuric acid;
enter the goods at about 60" C. (140 deg. F.), raise in '/a hour to the boil,
and run for about '/s hour at boiling temperature. By prolonged boiling
and using a reduced quantity of acid, the wool is apt to assume
a deeper shade than the silk, whereas at a lower temperature
and by adding a larger quantity of acid the silk is better co-
vered. It is an advantage too, particularly for rich shades, to add only
about one-half the requisite quantity of dyestuff at first, then to boil for
about Va hour, and thereupon to add the other half of the dyestuff, com-
pleting the dyeing without again raising the temperature.
The dyestuffs marked with an asterisk (*) are dyed with the addition
of 10"/o Glauber's salt and lO"/* acetic acid or 3— 4"/o formic acid.
219
Dyeing of Materials composed of Wool and Silk.
Occasionally Basic Colours are used along with tbe others in the acid
bath for the purpose of saddening the shade of the silk
Of these, Safranmc S No /so. Methyl Violet 2B, ThioHaviiie 7\
Iiictaziiie M, are suitable products, but should only be applied in very small
quantities. The silk may further be topped subsequently in a fresh bath with
any of the dyestufFs mentioned on pages 225 and 22(5.
Some of the Acid Colours mentioned above may be ap-
plied also in a weakly alkaline soap bath, particularly on goods
bleached previously with peroxide of sodium, because purer
shades are then obtained than in an acid bath.
The following are particularly well suited :
Alkaline Blue, all brands Rosazeine B
Alkaline Violet CA, C Indian Yellow G, R
Formyl Violet S4B Orange EN
Brilliant Milling Blue B Brilliant Milling Green B.
Dye at the simmer with the addition of I'/g- — 2 lbs soap and 1 — 2 lbs
phosphate of soda to every 100 gallons of liquor, in the case of Alkaline
Blue with 3— 5" borax or borax and soap. The dyestuff will exhaust better
when adding 2 — 5 lbs Glauber's salt per 100 gallons liquor.
Hard water should be corrected with a little soda, but not any more
should be added than is necessary for this purpose as the wool is otherwise
apt to assume a yellowish tint.
The dyebaths may be preserved for further use. When dyeing tub-
sequent lots it is sufficient to add one-fifth of the weights of soap, phos-
phate of soda and borax used for the first bath.
After dyeing, the goods should always be well rinsed, brightened with
acetic acid, and dried; the dyeings obtained with Alkaline Blue, after being
well rinsed, are developed hot with sulphuric acid.
b) Diamine Colours.
The following are particularly well suited :
Thioflavine S Diamine Bordeaux S
Oxy Diamine Yellow TZ Diamine Brilliant Bordeaux R
Diamine Fast Yellow FF, 3G Oxy Diamine Violet B, R
Diamine Yellow CP Diamineral Brown G
Diamine Orange B, F Diamine (!!atechine G
Diamine Rose BD, GD Diamine Brown 3G, R, V, M, B
Diamine Scarlet B, 3B Oxy Diamine Brown G, 3GN
Diamine Red 4B, 5B Diamine Fast Brown G, R
Diamine Fast Red F Diamine Sky Blue FF.
Solid Shades.
Diamine Blue RW Diamine Dark Green N
Diamine Brilliant Blue G Diamine Grey G
Diamine New Blue R, G Diamine Black HW
OxyDiamineBlueB, R,G, 3G,5G Oxy Diamine Black
Diamine Steel Blue L JW, JWF, JB, JEI
Diamine Green B, G, CL Oxy Diamine Black SOOO.
Dye with the addition of
• 3 — 2 lbs Glauber's salt crystals per 10 gallons liquor
(according to the depth of shade) ;
enter the goods at about 60" C. (140 deg. F.), raise gradually to the boil,
run for about one hour in a boiling hot bath or at the simmer, rinse, and
brighten with acetic acid. In the case of blue Diamine Colours, it is
recommended to add 2— 4"/o acetic acid.
Prolonged boiling causes the dyeslufifs to go more strongly on to the
wool, '^ilk on the other hand beint; dyed to best advantage at 60" C. (140
deg. F). If necessary, the silk may be topped subsequently as indicated on
page 225.
c) Basic Colours.
The following Basic Colours are very well adapted for dyeing
materials composed of wool and silk :
Safranine, all brands Tannin Heliotrope
Magenta la Thioflavine T
Brilliant Green Crystals extra Solid Green crystals O
Crystal Violet 5B bluish, 10 B Methyl Violet, all brands.
Dye in a boiling hot neutral bath without any other ingredients, then
rinse, and brighten with a little acetic acid.
II. Two -Coloured Effects.
Two-coloured effects are produced on fabrics composed of
wool and silk by first dyeing the wool with Acid Colours which
go principally on to the wool fibre and stain the silk as little
as possible, and then dyeing the silk cold in a second bath.
If the silk has absorbed too much dyestuff during the
wool dyeing so that it does not appear clear enough or so that
clear shades are not obtainable on the silk in the subsequent
dyeing, it has to be cleared by a special treatment as indicated
on page 224
— 221 -
Dyeing of Materials composed of Wool and Silk.
a) Dyestuffs for dyeing the wool first.
For Cream, Yellow and Orange:
Naphtol Yellow S
Acid Yellow AT
P^ast Y^ellow S
Orange GG
Lanafuchsine SG ifor shading tnw.ards Red).
For Pink:
Eosine 3 G, BN
Eosine Scarlet B
Lanafuchsine SG, SB
Brilliant Scarlet 4 R, 6 R.
For Red and Claret:
i
Lanafuchsine SG, SB, 6 B
Brilliant Scarlet 4R
Naphtol Red C ^^'* '"'^''^^'^ ^°' ^^^ P"^P°^^
Amaranth j
Brilliant Scarlet 6R
Crystal Scarlet 6R
Scarlet FR, F2R, F3R
Brilliant Cochineal 2R
Acid Zslagenta (in pale shades).
For Purple:
Azo Wool Violet IR
shaded if necessar\' with
Azo Wool Blue C
Cyanole FF (for bright pale shades).
For Rlue and Navy B lue:
Cyanole FF, extra (for pale and meJium blue)
Azo Wool Blue C
shaded if necessary with
Lanafuchsine 6B
Azo Wool Violet 7R
Orange GG
Acid Yellow AT.
For fireen:
Acid Green extra cone.
Acid Green 5G
Naphtol Green B (for dark Green)
Two-coloured EiFects.
shaded if necessary with
Azu Wool Blue C
Acid Yellow AT
Orange GG.
For compound shades (grey, mode, brown, olive);
Combinations of
Acid Yellow AT
Naphtol Yellow S
Orange GG
Lanafuchsine SG, SB
Azo Wool Blue C
Cyanole extra, FF.
For Black:
Naphtylamine Black EFF
shaded if necessary with
Azo Wool Violet 7R (for blue-black)
Acid Yellow AT I ,, . ^ , , , ,
} for jet black .
Orange GG J
Dyeing Directions for Colours:
Charge the bath with
10° 1 Glauber's salt crystals and
8— 15"/o acetic acid 30",„
or
r/4— 2'/2''/o formic acid 85°/o
and the requisite amount of dyestuff, entering the goods straightway into the
boiling bath and boiling hard for about an hour.
Then rinse well, and sour off with acetic or formic acid added to the
last rinsing bath.
For pinks and reds produced with E o s i n e and Eosine Scarlet,
charge the bath with
10"/o Glauber's salt crystals,
2 — S^/o acetic acid 30°/o and the requisite dyestuffs.
Enter the goods at 50—60" C. (120—140 deg. F), raise to the boil
within '/a hour, boil for 30 — 40 minutes, rinse, and brighten as indicated above.
As small additions as possible of acid, and a hightempera-
ture, are conducive to clearness of the silk; silk is on the
other band stained more or less when using strongly acid
baths or by dyeing without boiling.
In order to obtain as high a temperature as possible in the dye-
bath, a second steam- coil may be introduced into the dye vessel.
— 223 —
Dyeing of Materials composed of Wool and Silk.
Dyeing Directions for Black.
Charge the bath with
10 "'o Glauber's salt crystals
2*'/o formic acid 85 "/o and, sa}-,
8»/o Naphtylamine Black EFF;
enter the goods at boiling temperature, boil for ^/^ hour, add
2**o formic acid 85 "/o
in several portions, and run for a further 20 — 30 minutes in a strongly
boiling bath ; then rinse.
b) Clearing the Silk.
The dyestuffs and combinations enumerated before have
been selected as leaving silk in pale and medium shades almost
entirely unstained. When dyeing deep shades it is practically
impossible to prevent the silk from becoming slightly tinted,
and it may therefore be necessary to subject the materials sub-
sequently to a clearing process in order to strip the dyestufif
which the silk has absorbed.
For this purpose the pieces are entered into a fresh bath
of 60--800 C. (140—175 deg. F.) to which ^2 — 1 oz oxalate
of ammonia per 100 gallons liquor have been added, and are
allowed to run for 10 — 20 minutes in this bath until the silk
is sufficiently decolourised, then rinsed, and brightened.
If very soft or condensed water is used, the oxalate of
ammonia may be omitted, the silk being cleared simply with
plain water.
More effective stripping may if necessary be attained by
adding about 1^2 oz acetate of ammonia* per 10 gallons
liquor ; similarly good results are also obtained with bran.
By the first method the wool loses only very little colour
or none at all; by employing the second more effective method,
however, some of the colour is lost, which fact has to be taken
into account in the dyeing.
In dyeing black and white effects with Naphty-
lojnijie Black EFF, the silk assumes a slightly bluish-grey shade,
which is removed with hydrosulphite by the following method :
I
* Acetate of ammonia is prepared by mi.xing
10 oz ammonia (0.913 sp. g. or 24% and
26' 4 oz acetic acid (8" Tw or 30 "o).
The solution should be neutral and should not materially change either
blue or red litmus paper.
— 224 —
Two -Coloured Effects.
Prepare a bath of 50 — 60° C. (120—140 deg. F) with
2^9—3 gallons acetic acid 30 '^/o \
4—5 gallons hydrosulphite solution* j Pe^ 100 lbs of goods.
Enter the goods immediately, and work until the silk
is sufficiently white (about 20 — 30 minutes). Then rinse very
thoroughly, sour off in a bath containing about 5 °/o sulphuric
acid, calculated on the weight of the goods, rinse again, and
brighten finally with acetic or formic acid.
If necessary the silk may be lightly blued with slight
quantities of Formyl Violet, Brilliant Milling Blue or Water
Blue added to the brightening bath.
It is advisable to expose the goods as little as possible to
the air during the stripping process, but to keep them entirely
immersed m the stripping liquor, moving them slowly to and
fro with a stick.
c) DyestuPFs for Dyeing the Silk subsequently.
In the case both of solid shades and of two-coloured goods
the subsequent dyeing of the silk is carried out in a cold weakly
acid bath with dyestuffs which go strongly on to the silk and
which stain the wool fibres as little as possible.
It is helpful to the dyeing of the silk to warm the Hquor
a little, say up to about 30 — 45^ C. (85-115 deg. F.), but at
such temperature the wool is stained to some extent also.
The following Acid, Diamine and Basic Colours come into
consideration as suitable dyestufifs for the purpose :
a) Acid Colours:
Milling Yellow O, OO Lanafuchsine SG
Tropaeoline RNP Amaranth B
Brilliant Croceine, all brands Acid Magenta
Crocei'ne AZ Rosazeine B
Milling Red FR Formyl Violet S4B, 10 B
Azo Orseille BB Acid Violet 6BS
* Preparation of the hydrosulphite solution:
1 gallon bisulphite of soda of Gb** Tw. is mixed with
1 gallon cold water, into which
1 lb zinc dust is introduced whilst stirring.
Stir for some time, allow to settle, filter if necessary, and use the
clear solution.
As the hydrosulphite solution decomposes easily and thus becomes
ineffective, it should always be prepared fresh and be added to the bath
only just before entering the goods.
— 225 — 15eii
D3eing of Materials composed of Wool and Silk.
Acid Green extra cone.
Fast Acid Green BX
Brilliant ^Milling Green B
Brilliant Milling Blue B
Formyl Blue B
Cyanole FF
b) Diamine Colours:
Oxy Diamine Yellow TZ
Diamine Yellow CP
Oxy Diamine Red S
Diamine Rose BD
Tetra Cyanole V, A
Water Blue B
Wool Blue TB
Naphtol Blue G
Naphtol Blue Black
Naphtylamine Black ESN.
Diamine Heliotrope B
Diamine Sky Blue, FF
Diamine Blue 2 B, 3B.
c) Basic Colours:
Thioflavine T
Paraphosphine G
Tannin Oiange R
Chrysoidine F
Bismarck Brown GG
Safranine, all brands
Tannin Heliotrope
New ]!\Iethylene Blue N
Solid Green crystals.
Dje cold to lukewarm with the addition of about 5"'o acetic acid,
Acid Colours with 2 — 4",'o sulphuric acid. Rinse, and brighten.
Dyeing of Half-Silk.
(Cotton and Silk.)
i
Dyeing of Half-Silk.
(Cotton and Silk.)
For one and two-coloured styles half-silk is usually dyed
with Diamine Colours; in some cases Basic Colours are like-
wise used, on a tannin mordant, particularly for bright shades
of pink, red, green and violet. Immedial Colours moreover
are used for blacks and two-coloured styles when particularly
good fastness is required. Acid or Basic Colours serve for
topping or shading.
Particulars of the dyestuffs used in practice and their
behaviour towards the silk and cotton fibres respectively will be
found in the following tables.
For dyeing, ordinary rectangular wooden vats are used in
which piece-goods are turned by means of a moveable winch ;
superior qualities are frequently also dyed on the jigger. Ribbons
are hung over rods and worked in the liquor.
Previous to the dyeing, the goods should always be boiled
off well.
229
Dyeing of Half-Silk.
Diamine Colours luhich dye the silk and cotton the some or approximately
the same shade.
Thioflavine S
Oxy Diamine Yellow GG, TZ
Diamine Fast Yellow B, M,
FF, 3G
Diamine Yellow CP, N Powder
Diamine Orange B, F
Oxy Diamine Orange G, R
Diamine Rose BD, GD, BG
Diamine Scarlet B, 3B, HS
Diamine Purpurine B, 3B, 6B, V
Diamine Red 5B, 6B, lOB, D
Diamine Violet Red
Diamine Fast Red F
Diamine Bordeaux B, S, VRO
Diamine Brilliant Bordeaux R
Diamine Brown 3G, R, M,
OJDD, BWA, GWA, 30a,
33, 36, 37, 41, 42a, 43.
Oxy Diamine Brown G, 3GN,
RN
Diamine Catechine G, 3G, B
Diamineral Brown G
Diamine Fast Brown R, G
Diamine Blue RW
Diamineral Blue B, 3B
Diamine Bengal Blue G
Diamine Steel Blue L
Diamine Dark Blue B
Diamine Grey G
Diamine Green G, B, CL
Diamine Dark Green N
Diamine Black HW
Union Black S
Oxy Diamine Black JE, JEI,
JB, JW, FFC, BM, 010146,
Uf, US
Diaminogene B, BR \ ^.^^^^._
Oxy Diaminogene OT, I sed and
FFN, EM I develo-
Diamine Black BH P^'^
For dyeing directions see page 231.
ISO
Dyeing of Half-Silk.
Diamine Colours uihich dye the luooi and silk more or less different shades,
or the silk a lighter shade than the cotton.
Diamine Brilliant Scarlet S
Diamine Brilliant Blue G
Diamine Blue 52, 53, 54, 55,
56, BG, BX, 3R, NC
Diamineral Blue R, CV
Diamine Bengal Blue R
Oxy Diamine Blue 5G, 3G, G,
B, R, 3R
Diamine Azo Blue R, 2R, 51
Diamine Fast Blue G, FFB, FFG
Diamine Violet N, BB
Oxy Diamine Violet B, G, R
Diamine Heliotrope O, B, G
Diamine Bronze G
Diamine Brown B, S
Diamine Black BH, BHS cone.
Oxy Diamine Black SOOO
Para Diamine Black B, BB,
FFB, FF extra cone.
Dyeing Directions for Colours.
Dye pale shades with medium shades with
Soap 3 — 6 oz 3 — 6
Soda ^/4 — IV2 oz
Glauber's salt crystals — 8 oz
7 ll'o 07 ^^^ ^^ gallons
1-2 lbs I
using as soft water as possible ; boil up the bath charged with the
dyestutf and all the ingredients, and dye for about an hour. In
the case of pale shades it is recommended not to work at a higher
temperature than 50 — 60<' C. (120—140 deg. F). After dyeing,
rinse in soft water or water to which a little soda has been
added, brighten with acetic acid, and dry, or top and shade according
to requirement with Basic or Acid Colours (see page 223).
231
Dyeing of Half-Silk.
Diamine Colours iwhich stain the silk
slightly or not at all, but luhich dye
the cotton strongly and are suitable
for producing two-coloured effects.
Acid Colours u;hich dye only the silk,
staining the cotton not at all or only
uery slightly.
Diamine Fast Yellow A, AGG
Direct Rose T
Diamine Orange D, G
Diamine Fast Scarlet GG, 4BN,
6BS, 6BGN, 8BN
Diamine Sky Blue, FF, FFS
Diamine Pure Blue A
Diamine Blue 2B, 3B
Diamine Black BH, BHS cone.
d3'ed direct or diazotised and develo-
ped with Phenylene Diamine, or Beta
Xaphtol and Resorcine.
Directions for Dyeing.
Dye at 70— SO" C. (160—175 deg.
F.) with
Va— 1 lb soap
l',2 — 3 oz soda
0—1 lb Glauber's salt crystals
per 10 gallons liquor.
By maintaining an elevated tem-
perature the silk is dyed more strongly,
whereas at a lower temperature the
cotton principally is dyed.
If the cotton is to be dyed black
and the silk to remain und3'ed, the
goods should first be dyed as described
above with Diamme Black BH or
BHS cone, and after rinsing diazotised,
and developed as described on page
234. Instead of Phenylene Diamine,
equal parts of Beta Xaphtol and
Resorcine dissolved in I'/o times their
weight of causiic soda lye are frequently
used.
*Milling Yellow O, China Yellow B
Indian Yellow G, R, FF
Orange II, ENZ, GG
Brilliant Croceine, all brands
*Scarlet FR, F2R, F3R
Crystal Scarlet 6R
*Acid Magenta, *Rosazeine B
Azo Orseille BB
^Brilliant Orseille C
*Azo Rubine A, ^Milling Red G, R
Water Blue RB
Solid Blue R, 3R
Cvanole extra, *Formvl Blue B
*Formyl Yiolet S4B
Aniline Grey B, Nigi'osine
♦Brilliant Milling Blue B
*Brilliant Milling Green B
*Acid Green extra cone., B
*Naphtol Blue R
*Naphtylamine Black S.
Directions for Dyeing.
These dyestuffs may be used either
for dyeing the silk before the cotton
or for subsequently shading the silk.
If the first method is employed,
the goods are dyed in a boiling hot
bath with the addition of 3 — 5°;o sul-
phuric acid, and then rinsed; in the
subsequent shading it is best to maintain
a temperature of 30— 50" C. (85 — 120
deg. F.)
If the cotton is to remain perfect-
ly white, the goods are rinsed after
dyeing the silk and treated in a luke-
warm bath of Eau de Javelle. Dissolve
10 lbs chloride of lime and lO lbs soda
ash each in 1 gallon water, pour the
solutions together and allow to settle,
using the clear liquid adequately diluted.
The dyestuffs marked with an
asterisk (*) possess very good fastness
to chloring and allow of pure white
cotton effects being obtained.
Dyeing of Half-Silk.
Basic Colours suitable for topping and
shading in tresh baths, or uihich may
be used on goods previously mordanted
oiith tannin and antimony.
Immedial Colours for producing solid
shades of particularly good fastness.
Thioflavine T, TCN
Paraphosphine G, R
Tannin Orange R Powder
Chrysoidine crystals, FN
Safranine, all brands
Tannin Heliotrope
Magenta la
Cerise la
Crystal Violet 5B bluish, 10 B
Methyl Violet, all brands
New Methylene Blue N,GG,R,3R
New Blue R, B, L
Indazine M
Solid Green crystals O
Brilliant Green crystals extra
Bismarck Brown FF, FFG.
Directions for Dyeing.
These Basic Colours are used either
alone or together with Acid Colours
for topping dyeings which have been
bottomed with Diamine Colours accord-
ing to the directions on page "231 ; or
they may be dyed on a tannin and
antimony mordant especially for pro-
ducing very bright shades.
In the first case d3-e cold to luke-
warm with the addition of 5-10"/o
acetic acid or 3 — 5 "jo h3drochloric acid,
rinse, and brighten.
For the production of vcr}' bright
plain or two-coloured shades, first d3'e
the silk boiling hot with suitable Acid
Colours (see page 232), then, rmse, and
treat at 30° C. (85 deg. F.)for 3-6
hours in as short a bath as possible
containing 3 — b°/i, tannin reckoned on
the weight of the goods. Hereupon
take the goods through the cold anti-
monj' bath (2 — 4 "/o of the weight of
the goods), rinse, and dye cold with
Basic Colours. It is frequently necessa-
ry for two-coloured effects to clear the
silk subsequently by treating in a hot
soap bath.
Immedial Yellow D
Immedial Orange C
Immedial Cutch O, G, BG, BGG
Immedial Dark Brown B, BR, RR
Immedial Dark Brown D cone.
Immedial Maroon B cone.
Immedial Bordeaux G cone.
Immedial Prune S
Immedial Direct Blue B, R, OD
Immedial Dark Green B
Immedial Olive B, GG, 3G
Immedial Black AZ
Immedial Black BZ cone.
Immedial Black FF extra.
Immedial Black BZ cone, is dissol-
ved with double its weight, the other
dyestuffs with their own weight, of
sodium sulphide.
Dyeing Directions forS olid
Shades (Colours).
Dissolve the dyestuff with the
requisite quantity of sodium sulphide
and double or three times the weight
of glucose as of sodium sulphide, boil
up for 5 or 10 minutes, add this solution
to as short a bath as possible to which
3 oz soda, 3 oz Turkey red oil and
1 lb Glauber's salt have been added,
and dye for about half an hour at
80—90" C. (175—195 deg. F.). Then
lift immediately,; rinse, and brighten in
acetic acid. The topping is done as
described in the opposite column.
For the production of two-coloured
effects see page 235.
Goods dyed with Immedial Black
are treated finallj' with 8 oz acetate
of soda per 10 gallons water.
- 233 —
Dyeing of Half- Silk.
Dyeing Directions for Blacks.
a) For Blacks dyed direct,
Oxy Diamine Black JE, JW, JB, FFC, BM,
Union Black S 010146, UI, US
shaded if necessary with
Diamine Dark Green N
Diamine Fast Yellow A, B, FF
are used.
Dj-e boiling hot for 1— 1','2 hours with
7 — 10" dyestuff and
3 t— 1' 2 oz soda ash 1 ,,-, ,, ,■
lS-3 lbs Glauber's salt crystals] ^" ^^^ §^^^'°"^ ^'^''°'-
After dyeing, rinse, and top with New ^lethylere Blue N or Naphtyl-
amine Black 4B in a lukewarm bath slightly acidulated with acetic acid.
b) For Blacks, diazotised and developed:
Diaminogene B, BR
Oxy Diaminogene OT, FFN, EM
Diamine Black BH
shaded if necessary with
Diamine Dark Green N
Diamine Fast Yellow A
Neutral Wool Black B, G
Naphtylamine Black 4B.
Dye boiling hot for 1 — I'/a hours with
1 — '2°lo acetic acid ] , ,, • i,. r ..i. j
8-10-/0 dyestuff ) °^ *^ "^^'^^^ °^ *^^ -°°^^
2 — 3 lbs Glauber's salt crj-stals per 10 gallons liquor.
Then rinse cold, treat with S" o nitrite of soda and G^'o sulphuric acid
in a cold bath, linse again, developing in the case of Jet Black with 0,7° n
Phenj-lene Diamine and 2"/o soda, and of blue-black with l,2'*/o Beta Xaphtol
dissolved with equal weights of caustic soda lye of 77° Tw; finally soap hot
with the addition of a little New Methylene Blue N.
c) For Blacks produced with Immedial Black.
For dyeing blacks on half-silk materials, our Immedial Black
AZ and BZ cone, applied according to our patented process
(British Patent No. 24697;01) have proved particularly well
adapted. They dye a shade in no way inferior to Aniline
Oxidation Black, the production moreover being very much larger
in the case of our products, besides which the latter do not
affect the fibre nor turn bronzy or greenish on storing.
— 234 —
Dyeing of Half-Silk.
per 10 gallons liquor.
Dye in .SO — 40 rimes the quantity of liquor calculated on the weight
of the goods charging the bath with
2'/2 lbs Immedial Black AZ or
I'/o lbs Immedial Black BZ cone.
l';2 lbs sodium sulphide crystals
3 — 4 lbs glucose
,S oz soda ash
3 oz Turkey-red oil
V's — 1 lb Glauber's salt desiccated
Boil all the ingredients up together for .t — 10 minutes, enter the goods,
and dye for 1 — 1' » Lours; then squeeze off lightly, and rinse immediately in
a cold bath to which a little soda has been added, and rinse again in warm
water. Then treat the goods for about 3/^ hour in a boiling hot bath with
S'/o bichrome, 2'';o lactic acid and 5" o acetic acid, rinse, and dye boiling hot
with logwood extract, in a fatty soap bath, adding if neces-^ary a little fustic
extract. For shading, either Diamine Colours such as Diamine Yellow CP,
Oxy Diamine Orange R, Cotton Brown X, Diamine Green CL, etc. or
Basic Coloiirs such as New Methylene Blue N, ;3R, Safranine S No. 150,
Tannin Heliotrope, Solid Green crystals are used. The goods are then dried
without again rinsing.
For dyeing subsequent lots in a standing bath, the following quantities
are required :
14— 18»;o Immedial Black AZ or
8— lO^/o Immedial Black BZ cone.
8 — 10°;o sodium sulphide crystals
8-10»,o glucose
0,5"/o soda ash
l°/o Turkey-red oil
5°/o Glauber's salt crystals
Ribbons are best dyed on bent iron rods wrapped round with cloth,
being turned about every 10 minutes by means of a broaching stick. Piece-
goods are passed into the liquor and turned every 10 or l5 minutes; the
goods should always be kept well immersed in the liquor.
The brand Immedial Black AZ is suitable for bluish blacks and
BZ cone, for jet blacks.
of the weight of the
goods to be dyed.
Directions for Dyeing Two-coloured Half-Silk Materials
with Immedial Colours.
For produciog the well-known black and white (Grisaille)
style the following method (British Patent No. 14581/02) is
largely applied.
Charge the dyebath in an ordinary wooden vat, provided with a
moveable winch which is fixed not too high above the vat, with
1—2 lbs Immedial Black XF \
1 — 2 lbs sodium sulphide crystals
2 — 4 lbs glue per 10 gallons liquor.
8 oz soda ash
2 lbs Glauber's salt crystals )
Dye the previously viercerised goods for ^/j — 1 hour at ,30 — 40" C;
(85 — 105 deg. F.), turning them occasionally and keeping them otherwise well
immersed in the liquor. Then press ott lightly, and rinse in cold water
charged with a little soda, soaping hot if necessary, and brighten with the
addition of 8 oz acetate or formate of soda per 10 gallons liquor.
Dyeing of Half-Silk.
For dyeing subsequent lots, about
10°/o Immedial Black NF \
10" sodium sulphide crystals | of the weight of the
5" " glue I goods
1" soda ash j
are required. If the baths have been left standing unused for some time it
is necessary in the first place to add a little sodium sulphide (4 — 8 oz per
10 gallons), boiling up well afterwards and allowing to cool again before
adding the afore-mentioned quantities of d3estuff and salt.
The mercerising is best done with the goods full-width with as cold
caustic soda lye as possible of 32 — 40° Tw., whereupon they are immediately
rinsed in cold water or neutralised with acid.
If there are no suitable arrangements for the purpose, the mercerising
may be carried out without tentering, by first boiling the goods, working for
about ten minutes in a cold caustic soda lye of 18 — 20 Tw., rinsine imme-
diately in a cold bath, and neutralising finall}-. The material will hardl)'
shrink in the least by such treatment.
The following brands may also be used in addition to
Immedial Black NF:
Immedial Black NG, NR, NRT, NX cone,
NLN cone., NNG cone, NXR cone.
Immedial Carbon B, R, JHJ.
Colours are produced in the same way as blacks ; they are
likewise dyed to advantage on mercerised material, the follow-
ing dvestuffs being used :
Immedial Brown B, *BR, W cone., RR
Immedial Dark Brown A
Immedial Dark Brown D cone.
*Immedial Cutch O, G, R, BG, BGG
*Immedial Maroon B cone.
*Immedial Bordeaux G cone.
Immedial Bronze A
*Immedial Orange C
Immedial Prune S
Immedial Yellow Olive G
^Immedial Yellow D
Immedial Dark Green B
Immedial Olive B, 3G
Immedial Indogene B cone,
Immedial Direct Blue B, R, OD.
Those marked with an asterisk (*) tint the silk slightly and are there-
fore best suited for coloured silk effects. The subsequent dyeing with Acid
Colours is carried out according to the directions on page 232.
— 230
I
CHEMICALS.
THERMOMETER and HYDROMETER TABLES.
WEIGHTS and MEASURES.
INDEX.
Sulphuric Acid.
Specific Gravity at 15" C (59 deg. F.) (Lunge and I
sler).
Degrees
Per cent
Degrees
Per cent
Degrees
Per cent
Degrees
Per cent
sulphuric
sulphuric
sulphuric
sulphuric
Twaddle
acid
Twaddle
acid
Twaddle
acid
Twaddle
acid
2
1.6,
48
32.28
94
56.90
140
77.17
4
3.03
50
33.43
96
57.83
142
78.04
6
4.49
52
34 57
98
58.74
144
78.92
8
5.96
54
35.71
100
59.70
146
79.80
10
7.37
56
36.87
102
60.65
148
80.68
12
8.77
58
38.03
104
61.59
150
81.56
14
10.19
60
39.19
106
62.53
152
82.44
16
10.90
62
40.35
108
63.43
154
83.32
18
12.99
64
41.50
110
64.26
156
84.50
20
14.35
66
42.66
112
65.08
158
85.70
22
15.71
68
43.74
114
65.90
160
86.90
24
17.01
70
44.82
116
66.71
162
88.30
26
18.31
72
45.88
118
67.59
164
90.05
28
19.61
74
46.94
120
68.51
165
91.00
30
20.91
76
48.00
122
69.43
166
92.10
32
22.19
78
49.06
124
70.32
167
93-43
34
23.47
80
50.11
126
71.16
168
95.60
36
24.76
82
51.15
128
71. 99
168.3*
97.70
38
26.04
84
52.15
130
72.82
168.1*
98.70
40
27.32
86
53.11
132
73.64
168*
99.20
42
28.58
. 88
54.07
1.34
74.51
167.7*
99.95
44
29.84
90
55.03
1.36
75.42
46
31.11
92
55.97
138
76.30
* Sulphuric acid of 97.70*'o has the highest specific gravity, whilst
hat of stronger acid is a little lower.
Hydrochloric Acid.
Specific Gravit
y at 15"
C. (59 deg. F.) (L
un ge anc
Marchlewski).
Per cent
Per cent
Per cent
Degrees
hydro-
Degrees
hydro-
Degrees
hydro-
Degrees
hydro-
Twaddle
chloric
Twaddle
chloric
Twaddle
chloric
Twaddle
chloric
acid
acid
acid
acid
1
1.15
11
11.18
21
20.97
31
30.55
2
2.14
12
12.19
22
21.92
32
31.52
3
3.12
13
13.19
23
22.86
33
.32.49
4
4.13
14
14.17
24
23.82
34
.33.46
5
5.15
15
15.16
25
24.78
35
34.42
6
6.15
16
16.15
26
25.75
36
35.39
7
7.15
17
17.13
27
26.70
37
.36.31
8
8.16
18
18.11
28
27.66
38
37.23
9
9.16
19
19.06
29
28.61
39
.38.16
10
10.17
20
20.01
30
29.57
40
39.11
It will be noticed that each degree Twaddle indicates approximately
l<*/o pure hydrochloric acid.
— 238 -
Chemicals.
Acetic Acid.
Specif
ic Gravity a
t IS* C
. (59 deg. F.)
(Oudemans).
Per
De.
Per
De-
Per
De-
^Pe7~
De-
Per
De-
cent
grees
cent
grees
cent
grees
cent
grees
cent
grees
acetic
Twad-
acetic
Twad-
acetic
Twad-
acetic
Twad-
acetic
Twad-
acid
dle
acid
dle
acid
dle
acid
dle
acid
dle
5
1.3
25
7.0
45
11.4
65
14.3
85
14.8
10
2.8
30
8.2
50
12.3
70
14.7
90
14.3
15
4.3
35
9.4
55
13.1
75
14.9
95
13.2
20
6.7
40
10.5
60
13.7
80
15.0
100
11.1
The specific gravities above 11 " Tw. correspond to two liquids of different
strengths. To ascertain whether the acid contains more or less than 77 "/o
pure acetic acid, a small quantity of water should be added after measur-
ing; if, on again measuring, a higher specific gravity is found, the acid
contains more than 77 "/o, otherwise less.
Formic Acid.
Specific Gravity at [
0" C (68 deg. F.)
(Richardson
and Allaire).
Perc. by
Weight
Perc.by
Volume
Specific
Perc.by Perc.by gjgj.
Weight Volume j
Perc.by Perc.by Specific
Weight Volume
Formic
acid
Gravity
Formic acid
Gravity
Formic acid
Gravity
5
4.14
1.0116
40
35.90
1.0964
75
72.27
1.1170
10
8.40
1.0247
45
40.82
1.1086
80
77.67
1.1861
15
12.80
1.0371
50
45.88
1.1208
85
83.19
1.1954
20
17.17
1.0489
55
51.01
1.1321
90
88 74
1.2045
25
21.73
1.0610
60
56.13
1.1425
95
94.48
1.2141
30
26.37
1.0730
65
61.44
11544
100
100
1.2213
35
31.10
1.0848
70
66.80
1.1656
Oxalic Acid.
Specific G
r avi ty at
15" C. (59 deg. F.) (Franz).
Per cent
oxalic
acid
Specific
Gravity
Per cent
oxalic
acid
Specific
Gravity
Per cent
oxalic
acid
Specific
Gravity
1
2
3
4
5
1.0032
1.0064
1.0096
1.0128
1.0160
6
7
8
9
1.0182
1.0204
1.0226
1.0248
10
11
12
12,6
1.0271
1.0289
1.0309
1.0320
(saturated)
Lactic Acid.
Lactic acid is marketed in the form of a brownish liquor with a peculiar
odour. It contains as a rule 50 "/o of pure lactic acid and has a specific
gravitj- of 1.178. Lactic acid is used mainly as a substitute for tartar for
chrome mordants. Its acid salts, marketed as Lactoliiie, are useful for the
same purpose. Aiitimonine, an antimony double salt of lactic acid, is used
as a substitute for tartar emetic.
— 239 —
Chemicals.
Caustic Soda Lye.
Specific Gravity at 15" C. (59 deg. F.)
(Lunge).
^^'^^''^ 1 Degrees
Hydroxide
Per cent
Sodium
Hydroxide
Degrees ^«^,.^«°t
Twaddle „^°/^""\
Hydroxide
Degrees
Twaddle
1
2.4
21
47.2
41
89.4
2
4.6
22
49.4
42
91.5
3
7.0
23
51.6
43
93.6
4
9.2
24
53.8
44
95.6
5
11.8
25
55.8
45
97.6
6
14.0
26
58.0
46
99.8
7
16.2
27
60.0
47
101.6
8
18.4
28
62.0
48
103.8
9
20.6
29
64.2
49
105.8
10
23.0
30
66.4
50
108.0
11
25.2
31
68.6
51
110.0
12
27.4
32
70.2
52
112.0
13
29.6
33
72.6
53
114.0
14
31.8
34
74.8
54
116.0
15
34.0
35
76.8
55
118.2
16
36.2
36
79.0
56
120.2
17
38.4
37
81.0
57
122.2
18
40 4
38
83.0
58
124.4
19
42.6
39
85.2
59
126.6
20
45.0
40
87.4
60
128.6
Ammonia Liquor.
Specific Gravity at 15° C. (59 deg. F). (Lunge and Wiernik).
Specific
Per cent
Specific
Per cent
Specific
Per cent
gravity at
(gaseous)
gravity at
(gaseous)
gravity at
(gaseous)
590 F.
ammonia
1 ''°'-
ammonia
59" F.
ammonia
1.000
0.00
0.960
9.91
0.920
21.75
0.995
1.15
0.955
1134
0.915
23.36
0.990
2.31
0.950
12.74
0.910
24.99
0.985
3.55
0.945
14.22
0.905
26.65
0.980
4.80
0.940
15.63
0.900
28.33
0.975
6.05
0.935
17.12
0.895
30.03
0.970
7,31
0.930
18.64
0.890
31.75
0.965
8.59
0.925
20.18
0.885
33.68
240 —
Chemicals.
Sodium Sulphide.
Sodium sulphide is marketed in two qualities, viz, as crystallised and
as conce!!i7-ated sodium sulphide. Crystallised sodium sulphide consists of
brownish crystals containing water of crystallisation and 32 Va per cent pure
sodium sulphide. The concentrated product has usually double the strength,
and is sold in the form of grey or greyish black, irregular lumps.
Sodium sulphide is very freely soluble in cold or warm water. It
absorbs from the air moisture, carbon dioxide and oxygen, liquefies and
becomes partially converted into carbonate and sulphate of soda. As it
thereby loses correspondingly in strength, it should be stored if possible in
well closed receptacles and not be kept in stock too long.
Soda.
Specific
Gravity of Soda Sol
ution at 15°
C. (59 deg.
F.) (Lunge)
Degrees
Per cent
Sodium
Degrees
Per cent
Sodium
Degrees
Per cent
Sodium
Twaddle
Carbonate
Twaddle
Carbonate
Twaddle
Carbonate
1
0.47
11
5.23
21
9.90
2
0.95
12
5.71
22
10.37
3
1.42
13
6.17
23
10.83
4
1.90
14
6.64
24
11.30
5
2.38
15
7.10
25
11.76
6
2.85
16
7.57
26
12.23
7
3.33
17
8.04
27
12.70
8
3.80
18
8.51
28
13.16
9
4.28
19
8.97
29
13.63
10
4.76
20
9.43
30
14.09
Soda dissolves in water best at a temperature of 32,5 C. (90'/* deg. F.)
100 parts of water dissolve the following quantities of pure sodium carbonate at :
32 41 50 59
9OV2
93 and 174 212 deg. F.
7.1 9.5 12.6 16.5 21.4 38.1 59
45.1 parts soda.
Soda ash is marketed in various degrees of strength, calculated on
the supposed percentages of sodium oxide ; the chief brands show 48°, 52—56"
and 58", each degree indicating 1 per cent of sodium oxide, 58" consequently
corresponding to about 99 per cent of pure sodium carbonate. The usual
qualities of 56 — 58" are pure enough for all dyeing purposes.
Our observations on soda ash have reference to the good qualities,
irrespective of the process by which they are produced. 100 parts of good
soda ash are approximately equivalent to 270 parts soda crystals.
- 241 -
16 en
Chemicals.
Common Salt.
Specific Gravity of Aqueous Solutions at 15" C. (59 deg. F.).
(Gerlach).
Per cent common salt 5
10
15
20
25
26,4 saturated.
Specific gravity 1.0362 1.0733 l.UU 1.1510 1.1932 1.2043
Degrees Twaddle 7.2 14.7 22.3 30.2 38.5 40.9
The solubility of common salt is nearly the same at all temperatures
and varies only between 35,5 parts common salt at 0" C. (32 deg. ¥.) up to
39,2 parts at 100' C. (212 deg. F.) in 100 parts of water.
Since the coarser qualities of common salt which are used for dyeing
frequently contain small percentages of calcium sulphate, it is more advan-
tageous to use crystallised Glauber's salt for machine-dyeing, but in almost
all other cases common salt may be used instead of crystallised or calcined
Glauber's salt.
Glauber's Salt.
Specific Gravity of Aqueous Solutions at 15" C. (59 deg. F.)
Per cent
calc.
Glauber's
salt
Specific
Gravity
Per cent
calc.
Glauber's
salt
Specific
Gravity
Per cent
calc.
Glauber's
salt
Specific
Gravity
1
2
3
4
1 .0091
1.0182
1.0274
1.0365
5
6
7
8
1.0457
1.0550
1.0644
1.0737
9
10
11
12
1.0832
1.0927 •
1.1025
1.1117
saturated
The percentages of crystallised Glauber's salt are found by multiplying
the above percentages by 2'/4.
100 parts of calcined Glauber's salt are equivalent to 220 parts of
crystallised Glauber's salt.
100 parts of water dissolve at:
32» 500 59„ 68' 77' 86' 91V2' 104' 217'/»' F.
13
28
40
50
49 42.6 parts of cal-
cined Glauber's salt.
— 242
Chemicals.
Sodium Bisulphate or Bisulphate of Soda.
A white crystalline mass dissolving very easily in water. The diluted
aqueous solution decomposes into neutral sodium sulphate (Glauber's salt) and
free sulphuric acid, and for this reason bisulphate of soda is used in wool
•dyeing instead of free sulphuric acid as a mild agent for gradually acidu-
lating the dye liquor. 10 parts of bisulphate of soda are practically equivalent
to a mixture of 4 parts sulphuric acid and 10 parts Glauber's salt crystals.
Sodium Bisulphite or Bisulphite of Soda.
Specific weight of the solutions of Sodium Bisulphite at
15" C. (59 deg. F.)
Specific
"/oSodium
Specific
"/o Sodmm
Specific
»/o Sodium
Specific
°,o Sodium
Gravity
Bisulphite
Gravity
Bisulphite
Gravity
Bisulphite
Gravity
Bisulphite
1,008
1.6
1,084
8.0
1.171
16,5
1,275
28.9
1.022
2.1
1.100
9,5
1.190
18.5
1,298
31.7
1.038
3.6
1.116
11,2
1.210
20,9
1.321
84.7
1.052
5.1
1.134
12.8
1.23U
23,5
1.345
38,0
1.06S
6.5
1.152
14,6
1.252
25,9
Sodium Hydrosulphite or Hydrosulphite of Soda.
Sodium hydrosulphite is an easily soluble white powder, in which form
it is very stable, but its aqueous solution, prepared by the action of zinc dust
or clippings on bisulphite, oxidises very rapidly and should therefore be
protected as well as possible from the action of the air, by being kept in
barrels or bottles well filled and tightly closed, but even when kept in this
way it decomposes pretty quickly.
Hydrosulphite is chiefly used for preparing the Indigo-hydrosulphite vat
.and sometimes for stripping coloured mateiials, and for such purposes is
prepared by pouring a mixture of 1 gallon bisulphite of 64" Tw. and 1 gallon
cold water over 1 lb zinc dust, stirring well for a short time, allowing the
precipitate to settle, and using the clear or the filtered liquor. For stripping,
1 — 1 '/z gallon hydrosulphite and 1 pint acetic acid are added to 25 gallons
water before entering the material. The material is entered, the bath heated
to 50—60° C. (120—140 deg. F.), and the material worked for about
'/4 — Vn hour until the dye is sufficiently stripped off the material. In this
way many colours may be destioyed or at least considerably reduced in depth.
Sodium Nitrite (Nitrite) or Nitrite of Soda.
Sodium nitrite forms small crystals readily soluble, but not deliques-
cent and containing 95— 98°/o nitrite.
It is used in cotton dyeing for diazotising dyestuflfs which are to be
developed, and also for diazotising Paranitraniline. Its action is based on
the liberation of nitrous acid on the addition of mineral acids, such as hydro-
chloric acid ; acetic acid has not the same effect. For 1 pait of nitrite, 3 parts
of hydrochloric acid or 2 parts of sulphuric acid are used.
- 243
16* en
Chemicals.
Sodium Acetate or Acetate of Soda.
This salt forms verj' readily soluble crystals. It serves for neutralising
free mineral acids, forming their salts and liberating free acetic acid. For
union goods which have been cross-dyed in an acid bath, a final impregnation
with acetate of soda is very useful for preserving the strength of the cotton
fibre, and an addition of acetate of soda to the last bath used for rinsing
cotton goods dyed with Immedial Black is always advisable.
Sodium Formate or Formate of Soda.
This product possesses similar properties and is used for the same pur-
poses as acetate of soda.
Sodium Phosphate or Phosphate of Soda.
This salt forms crystals which effloresce in the air and are soluble
in 25 times their weight of cold water, or in their own weight of boiling
water. Phosphate of soda is a mild alkaline salt sometimes used in place
of Glauber's salt for dyeing Diamine Colours in light shades.
Borax, Sodium Bi-borate or Bi-borate of Soda.
White crystals with water of crystallisation, or white powder when
anhydrous, soluble in 20 times its weight of cold water, or half its weight
of boiling water. Feebly alkaline salt, sometimes used in place of soda
phosphate of soda etc. It is applied also in order to render the bath slightly
alkaline without harm to the wool, particularly when dyeing Alkaline Blue.
It is further also used for rendering cotton goods incombustible.
Tartar. Potassium Bitartrate. Cream of Tartar. Argol.
Tartar is the acid potassium salt of tartaric acid and is used as an
assistant in mordanting with bichrome. It is ver^' sparingly soluble in cold
water and even at 100° C (212 deg. F.) 100 parts watei dissolve only 6.9
parts tartar.
For some time past lactic acid, lactoline (see page 239), formic acid,
oxalic acid and other products have been used with much success m the
place of tartar.
Ammonium Acetate or Acetate of Ammonia.
Crystals which are exceedingly soluble in water, but not deliquescent
in the air. The solution of the salt smells of ammonia, and red litmus paper
is thereby turned faintly blue. The solution is found in commerce and may
be easily prepared by mixing
10 oz ammonia (0;913 sp. g. or 2i'';o) and
28\'* oz acetic acid (8" Tw. or SO^o)
The solution should not materially change either blue or red litmus
paper.
Acetate of ammonia serves for mildly acidulating the dyebaths
of Diamine Colours, Alphanol Blue, etc, and for stripping colours oflF
wool and silk.
— 2U —
Chemicals
Ammonium Oxalate or Oxalate of Ammonia.
Ammonitim oxalate is a well crystallised salt which readily dissolves
at 15" C (59 deg. F.) in 24 times its weight of water. The solution of the
salt may be prepared by dissolving
1 lb oxalic acid in
1 gallon hot water and neutralising the solution with about
I'/a lbs ammonia (0.913 sp. g. or 24"/ot ;
the solution should not change either blue or red litmus paper, and contains
about Via lb oxalate of ammonia (cryst).
This salt is principally employed when dyeing some Chrome Colours
in order to precipitate the lime salts dissolved in hard water and thus render
fliem harmless.
Ammonium Sulphocyanide or Thiocyanate.
This salt forms colourless, very freely soluble crystals. It is chiefly
applied m wool dyeing in order to diminish the action of metallic copper on
some dyestuflfs, as it forms a protective coating of cuprous sulphocyanide on
the metal. Care should therefore be taken not to remove this coating by
bright-polishing the metal when cleaning the vessels.
Alum.
Commercial alum is sold either as potash alum or as ammonia alum,
which show hardly any practical difference in their properties.
100 parts of water dissolve at:
50' fiSo 860 104" 158<> 212o F.
9.5 15.1 22.0 80.9 90.7 357.5 parts potash alum
9.1 13.6 19.3 27.3 72.0 421.9 parts ammonia alum.
Aluminium Sulphate or Sulphate of Alumina.
Sulphate of alumina has the same properties as alum, dissolving
however very easily in water and being much stronger, 100 parts of sulphate
of alumina being approximately equivalent to 140 — 150 parts alum: sulphate
of alumina sometimes contains an excess of sulphuric aeid and small amounts
of iron and Glauber's salt. It usually contams SC/o pure aluminium sul-
phate, sometimes even more than 55 per cent.
Aluminium Acetate or Acetate of Alumina.
Acetate of alumina is known in solution only, and is usually prepared
Tiy mixing solutions of aluminium sulphate and acetate of lead (sugar of
lead) or acetate of lime; for 100 lbs of aluminium sulphate, 171 lbs sugar
of lead are used; the two solutions are mixed, and after the precipitate has
settled, the clear solution is drawn off for use. In order to free the solution
completely from lead, a small quantity of Glauber's salt in solution may be
added subsequently. It is used as a mordant and for waterproofing purposes.
— 245 -
Chemicals.
Chrome Alum.
Dark cr3'Stals which may contain a great many impurities in spite of
their beautiful crystalline form. One part of chrome alum dissolves in 7 parts
of cold or 2 parts of boiling water. Chrome alum is used for aftertreating
Diamine and Immedial Colours.
Chromium Fluoride or Fluor Chrome.
Chromium fluoride is a green cr3'stalline powder which is readily
soluble in both cold and hot water, and which is used for aftcrtreatii%
Diamine Colours, Anthracene Yellow GG, etc.
Bichrome or Chrome. Potassium Bichromate.
Red Chromate or Bichromate of Potash.
Bichrome forms large yellowish red crystals which are stable when
exposed to air and which do not contain any water of crystallisation.
100 parts of water dissolve at:
32' 50° 104» 176» 212" F.
2.94 73 102 paits bichrome.
Sodium Bichromate or Bichromate of Soda.
Sodium bichromate, contrary to potassium bicbromate, forms deliques-
cent crystals containing water of crystallisation, and is more easily soluble
and cheaper than the potassium salt.
It is usually marketed in a strength equal to that of bichromate of
potash but not always of the same purity.
100 parts of water dissolve at:
32° 59" 86" 176° 212° F.
1U7 109 127 143 163 sodium bichromate.
Copperas or Green Vitriol. Sulphate of Iron (Ferrous).
Dissolves easily in water, but oxidises quickly on exposure to the air
with separation of red ferric hydroxide.
Pyrolignite of Iron. Iron Liquor or Black Liquor.
This is a dark olive brown liquid with a peculiar smell. The commer-
cial product has usually the speciSc gravity of 20 — 30° Tw.
— 246 —
Chemicals.
Nitrate of Iron. Ferric Sulphate.
Nitrate of iron derives its name from its being prepared by the oxidation
of sulphate of iron by means of nitric acid. It is however not a nitrate but
a sulphate, and is marketed as an aqueous solution of about 77" Tw.
Bluestone or Blue Vitriol.
Copper Sulphate or Cupric Sulphate.
100 parts of water dissolve at:
50° 68<» 86° 1220 158" 194" 2W
37
42
49
95
156
203 parts bluestone.
In using bluestone for aftertreatment, care must be taken that the
baths do not become turbid, which is easily prevented by the addition of
some acetic acid.
Tartar Emetic.
Tartar emetic, the double tartrate of antimony and po-
tassium, is a crystalline salt which is not very soluble in cold water but
more so in hot water.
One part of tartar emetic requires for dissolving at:
470
70«
122" 167» F.
19
12.6 8.2
5.5
3.2 parts of water.
Specific gravity of aqueous solutions of tartar emetic at
17V2°C. (64 deg. F.) (Streit.)
','0 Tartar Emetic
Specific Gravity
0/0 Tartar Emetic
Specific Gravity
1.007
1.012
1.018
1.027
1.035
1.044
Substitutes for tartar emetic: see Vol. I, page 26, foot note.
Tannin.
Specific gravity of aqueous solutions at 15° C (59 deg. F.).
(Trammer).
Per cent Tannin
Specific
Gravity
Per cent Tannin
Specific
Gravity
1.0
1.5
2.0
2.5
3.0
1.0040
1.0060
1.0080
1.0100
1.0120
3.5
4.0
4.5
5.0
1.0140
1.0160
1.0180
1.0200
— 24'
Chemicals.
Sumac.
Good qualities have an olive-green colour and a pleasant smell ; thej'
contain 15 — 20°/o and sometimes over 25 "/o tannin. Sumacs, which are dull
in colour and have a musty smell, have deteriorated by moisture and
prolonged storing.
Sumac extract is sold as a thick, dark brown liquid of about 52** Tw.,
or in a solid state. Decolourised sumac extracts may as a rule replace the
tannic acid even lor light shades.
Liquid sumac extract is rather apt to ferment, losing thereby in
strength.
Peroxide of Hydrogen or Hydrogen Peroxide.
Hydrogen peroxide is u?ed as a colourless aqueous solution prepared
bj- decomposing barium peroxide, or sometimes sodium peroxide with dilute
sulphuric acid. The bleaching action of hydrogen peroxide is based on its
property of readily developing oxygen, and it is therefore used as a bleaching
agent. The strength of the commercial solution is usually expressed in volumes
of oxj-gen evolved by 1 volume of the liquid, the usual strength of 1-2 volumes
corresponding to 3"/o h3drogen peroxide.
The product keeps best at a low temperature in a dark place and if
acidulated with small quantities of acid. An addition of Vjz oz naphtalene
or 1 pint of alcohol or ether to 10 gallons of the solution improves its stability.
It readily gives off the oxygen in the presence of alkalies or on heating.
Some metals also exert a decomposing action on hydrogen peroxide, and it
is therefore best kept in well tarred casks or in carboys.
Hydrogen peroxide ser\-es for bleaching white yarns and tissues.
Peroxide of Sodium or Sodium Peroxide
is a white powder, deliquescent in the air and attracting carbon dioxide with
development of oxygen. It dissolves in water with generation of heat and
on boiling develops oxygen. On sufficient cooling it dissolves in acidulated
water with formation of hydrogen peroxide and the corresponding sodium
salt. It is therefore frequently employed in place of the latter for bleaching.
In contact with inflammable substances it ignites them and should therefore a
be handled with care.
Sodium peroxide develops 20 per cent by weight of oxygen whereas
hydrogen peroxide of 12 per cent by volume only yields 1' a per cent by weight
of oxj-gen. In addition sodium peroxide possesses the advantage of being
indefinitely stable when stored well.
Sodium peroxide serves for bleaching in the same way as hjdrogen
peroxide.
Permanganate of Potash.
Purple, well-nigh black crystals which dissolve only slightly in cold,
but very easily in hot, water.
Permanganate of potash has an oxidising effect in acid, neutral, or
alkaline solution, and for this reason is applied for the bleaching or
decolourising of wool and unions. The brown precipitate which forms
on the goods dissolves very easily in a cold dilute solution of bisulphite.
— 248 —
Chemicals.
Bleaching Powder or Chloride of Lime. Calcium
Hypochlorite.
Specific gravity at 15" C. (59 deg. F.) of aqueous solutions
freshly prepared from good chloride of lime.
Degrees
Active
Degrees
Active
Degrees
Active
Twaddle
Chlorine
Twaddle
Chlorine
Twaddle
Chlorine
grms
grms
grms
per htre
per litre
per litre
v«
1.40
8
23.75
16
49.96
1
2.71
9
26.62
17
52.27
2
5.58
10
29.60
18
55.18
3
8.48
11
82.68
19
58.40
4
11.41
12
35.81
20
61.50
5
14'.47
13
39.10
21
64.50
6
17.36
14
42.31
22
68.00
7
20.44
15
45.70
23
71.50
Chloride of lime is a white powder smelling of chlorine which becomes
■moist on exposure to air, absorbs carbon dioxide and forms then a doughy
mass. Good bleaching powder contains 35-39''/o active chlorine.
For preparing a solution of chloride of lime, 1 part of bleaching
powder is mixed to a paste with 3 parts of water and diluted with 3 parts
more water; after settling, the clear solution is diluted to the desired strength.
Only clear solutions, free from any lumps, should be used for bleaching
purposes. After having been treated with chloride of lime, the goods must
always be rinsed thoroughly.
Hypochlorite and bleaching solutions (containing such) are
tested in exactly the same manner as chloride of lime.
The following method of testing the hypochlorite liquors in the bleach
house has been proposed by R. Baur : For the titration of the bleaching
liquors in use a "thiosulphate" burette graduated into Vs <^-c. and a
"chlorine tube" are required. The latter is a glass tube of about IV2 cm
(^/s mch) inside width and 50 cm (20 inches) length which is closed at one
end. The chemicals used for the test are hydrochloric acid, potassium iodide
and a thiosulphate solution containing 6.95 grms sodium thiosulphate in
1 litre water. This solution, each c.c. of which corresponds to 1 mg (O.OUl
grm) of active chlorine, is filled into the "thiosulphate burette". The "chlorine
tube" is filled with 10 c.c. of the old chlorine liquor from the bleach house,
and a few c. c. of a solution of potassium iodide are added until, on gently
shaking, the liquor does not become browner or more turbid. When this
point has been reached, a few c.c. of hydrochloric acid are added, until the
turbid liquor has become quite clear (brown). The thiosulphate solution is
now added, pretty quickly at first and then drop by drop, until the colour,
Avhich on moderate shaking had at first become paler and yellow, turns suddenly
into a watery blue. Each c.c. of thiosulphate solution added indicates 1 mg
{0.001 grm) of active chlorine in 10 c.c. of bleaching liquor.
Sodium Hypochlorite. Hypochlorite of Soda.
Eau de Javelle.
Sodium hypochlorite is known only in the form of its aqueous solution,
which is produced either by the electrolysis of common salt or b}' mixing the
solutions of chloride of lime and of soda.
249 —
Chemicals.
IOC lbs of chloride of lime 33'*/o are mixed with 40 gallons of water,
and 60 lbs of soda ash are dissolved in 20 gallons of boiling water and
diluted with 10 gallons of cold water. The soda solution is added to the
paste of chloride of lime and the mixture stirred for '/a hour and allowed to
settle overnight. The clear solution is drawn off and the precipitate washed
4 or 5 times with cold water, the wash water being used to dilute the so-
lution to 150 gallons of 6—7" Tw. It may be entirely freed from lime
by the addition of 1 — 2 lbs soda ash, which precipitates the remaining lime.
The solution reacts somewhat alkaline.
Hyraldite.
HjTaldite is the stable formaldehyde compound of hydrosulphite and
serves for discharging and also for the stripping of dyeings.
It is marketed in the following brands :
Hyraldite A
Hyraldite C extra
Hyraldite C special
Hyraldite W
Hyraldite C\V extra
Hyraldite Z for Stripping.
Hyraldite A, C extra W and C special are easily soluble in water ; the
"W" brands are partially soluble. Hyraldite Z for Stripping is insoluble in
water and exceedingly stable.
Hyraldite must be stored in closed vessels and in a cool place.
Hyraldite A and the double strength brand Hyraldite C extra may
be used for discharging and for stripping ;
Hyraldite Z for Stripping, as the name implies, is specially well
suited for stripping purposes. The other brands serve for discharging only.
For particulars regarding the discharging see Volume IV.
For stripping purposes charge a bath of 40 — 50° C. (105 — 120 deg. F.) with
2 — 4 "/o Hyraldite Z for Stripping \
2,5— 5,5°/o formic acid 85°/o or [of the weight of the goods;
1,5— 2,5"/o sulphuric acid i
or,
5— 10°'o HjTaldite A or 1
2,5—5 °/o Hyraldite C extra and I of the weight of the
5 — lO^/o acetic acid 8 deg. Tw. or bisulphite I goods.
64 deg. Tw. '
Enter the goods, raise gradually to the boil in 1/2 — 3/* hour, and boil
for 20 — 30 minutes, then rinse thoroughly, neutralise if necessary, and rinse again.
— 250 —
Thermometer Tables.
Comparison of the Thermometer Tables of Celsius or
Centigrade, Fahrenheit and Reaumur.
Degrees
Degrees
Degrees
Celsius
Fahren-
heit
Reau-
mur
Celsius
Fahren-
heit
Reau-
mur
Celsius
Fahren-
heit
Reau-
mur
32.0
0.0
34
93,2
27.2
68
154.4
54.4
1
33.8
0.8
35
95.0
28.0
69
156.2
55.2
2
35.6
1.6
36
96.8
28.8
70
158.0
56.0
3
37.4
2.4
37
98.6
29.6
71
159.8
56.8
4
39.2
3.2
38
100.4
30.4
72
161.6
57.6
5
41.0
4.0
39
102.2
31.2
73
163.4
58.4
6
42.8
4.8
40
104.0
32.0
74
165.2
59.2
7
44.6
5.6
41
105.8
32.8
75
167.0
60.0
8
46.4
6.4
42
107.6
33.6
76
168.8
60.8
9
48.2
7.2
43
109.4
34.4
77
170.6
61.6
10
50.0
8.0
44
111.2
35.2
78
172.4
62.4
11
51.8
8.8
45
113.0
36.0
79
174.2
63.2
12
53.6
9.6
46
114.8
36.8
80
176.0
64.0
13
55.4
10.4
47
116.6
37.6
81
177.8
■ 64.8
14
57.2
11.2
48
118.4
38.4
82
179.6
65.6
15
59.0
12.0
49
120.2
39.2
83
181.4
66.4
16
60.8
12.8
50
122.0
40.0
84
183.2
67.2
17
62.6
13.6
51
123.8
40.8
85
185.0
68.0
IS
64.4
14.4
52
125.6
41.6
86
186.8
68.8
19
66.2
15,2
53
127.4
42.4
87
188.6
69.6
20
68.0
16.0
54
129.2
43.2
88
190.4
70.4
21
69.8
16.8
55
131.0
44.0
89
192.2
71.2
22
71.6
17.6
56
132.8
44.8
90
194.0
72.0
23
73.4
18.4
57
13-1.6
45.6
91
195.8
72.8
24
75.2
19.2
58
136.4
46.4
9-2
197.6
73.6
25
77.0
20.0
59
138.2
47.2
93
199,4
74.4
26
78.8
20.8
60
140.0
48.0
94
201,2
75.2
27
80.6
21.6
61
141.8
48.8
95
203,0
76.0
28
82.4
22.4
62
143.6
49.6
96
204,8
76.8
29
84.2
23.2
63
145.4
50.4
97
2C6.6
776
30
86.0
24.0
64
147.2
51.2
98
208,4
78.4
31
87.8
24.8
65
149.0
52.0
99
210.2
79.2
32
89.6
25.6
66
150.8
52.8
100
212.0
80.0
33
91.4
26.4
67
152.6
5.3.6
251
Hydrometer Tables.
Comparison of Hydrometer Degrees Twaddle and Baume
with the Specific Gravities for Liquids heavier than Water.
Degrees
De-
Spec.
Degrees
De-
Spec.
Degrees
De-
Spec.
Twaddle
grees
Baume
Gravity
twaddle
1
grees
Baume
Gravity
Twaddle
grees
Baume
Gravity
1
0.7
1.005
58
32.4
1.290
116
53.0
1.580
2
1.4
I.OIO
GO
33.3
1.300
118
53.6
1.590
4
2.7
1.020
62
34.2
1.310
120
54.1
1.600
6
4.1
1.030
64
35.0
1.320
122
54.7
1.610
8
5.4
1.040
66
35.8
1.330
124
55.2
1.620
10
6.7
1.050
68
36.6
1.340
126
55.8
1.630
12
8.0
1.060
70
37.4
1.350
128
.56.3
1.640
14
9.4
1.070
72
38.2
1.360
130
56.9
1.650
16
10.6
1.080
74
39.0
1.370
132
57.4
1.660
18
11.9
1.090
76
39.8
1.380
134
57.9
1.670
20
13.0
1.100
78
40.5
1.390
136
58.4
1.680
22
14.2
1.110
80
41.2
1.400
138
58.9
1.690
24
15.4
1.120
82
42.0
1.410
140
59.5
1.700
26
16.5
1.130
84
42.7
1.420
142
59.9
1.710
28
17.7
1.140
86
43.4
1.430
144
60.4
1.720
30
18.8
1.150
88
44.1
1.440
146
60.9
1.730
32
19.8
1.160
90
44.8
1.450
148
61.4
1.740
34
20.9
1.170
92
45.4
1.460
150
61.8
1.750
36
22.0
1.180
94
46.1
1.470
152
62.3
1.760
38
23.0
1.190
96
46.8
1.480
154
62.8
1.770
40
24.0
1.200
98
47.4
1.490
156
63.2
1.780
42
25.0
1.210
100
48.1
1.500
158
63.7
1.790
44
26.0
1.220
102
48.7
1.510
160
64.2
1.800
46
26.9
1.230
104
49.4
1.520
162
64.6
1.810
48
27.9
1.240
106
60.0
1.530
164
65.0
1.820
50
28.8
1.250
108
50.6
1.540
166
65.5
1.830
52
29.7
1.260
110
51.2
1.550
168
65.9
1.840
54
30.6
1.270
112
51.8
1.560
169
66.1
1.845
56
31.5
1.280
114
52.4
1.570
170
66.3
1.850
Kot«
Tlie degrees in Twaddle's hydrometer bear a direct relationship
to the specific gravity and may be obtained from the same by the
following formula in which d represents the specific gravity and n the
u r J -r jj, 1000 d— 1000. ^ ^ u u J
number ol degrees 1 waddle: n = On the other hand
by the formula d = the degrees Twaddle are converted
into the corresponding specific gravity. For values below 2.0 the
degrees Twaddle may also be obtained from the specific gravity
252
Hydrometer Tables. Weights and Measures.
b}' moving the decimal point two figures to the right, striking off the
hrst figure and multiplying the rest by 2, as per the following example :
Specific gravity 1.133:
113.3:
13.3X2:
26.6° Twaddle.
Comparison of Hydrometer Degrees Baume with the
Specific Gravity of Liquids lighter than Water.
Degrees
Spec.
Degrees
Spec.
Degrees
Spec.
Degrees
Spec.
Baume
Gravity
Baume
Gravit}-
Baume
Gravity
Baume
Gravity
11
0.993
16
0.960
21
0.9.30
26
0.901
12
0.987
17
0.954
22
0.924
27
0.896
13
0.980
18
0.948
23
0.918
28
0.890
14
0.973
19
0.942
24
0.913
29
0.885
15
0.967
20
0.936
25
0.907
30
0.880
Weights and Measures.
I. Metric System.
1 metre (m) = 10 decimetres (dm) = 100 centimetres (cm) = 1000 milli-
metres (mm).
1 litre (1) = 1000 cubic centimetres (cc or ccm). 1 cubic metre (cbm) ^
1000 litres.
1 gramme (g or gr or grm) = 10 decigrammes (dg) = 100 centigrammes
(eg) = 1000 milligrammes (mg).
1 kilogramme (kg or kilo) = 1000 grammes.
1000 kilogrammes = 1 ton (t)^i. e. metric ton.
100 kilogrammes = 1 metric centner or quintal.
50 kilogrammes = 1 centner (or nearly 1 hundredweight).
10 grammes = 1 dekagramme (deka or Dg). 100 grammes = 1 hecto-
gramme (hg).
The gramme is the standard unit of weight of the metric system and
is equal to the weight of 1 cubic centimetre of pure water (measured whilst
at its greatest density, in vacuum under a latitude of 45 degrees, at sea level).
Hence the following relations of weights and measures are obtained :
1 cubic centimetre water = 1 gramme.
1 litre ,, =1 kilogramme.
1 cubic metre ,, =1 ton.
— 253 —
Weights and Measures.
II. English Weights and Measures.
1 yard (yd) = 3 feet. 1 foot (') = 12 inches ("). 1 inch =12 lines ('").
1 yard = 91.44 centimetres. 1 foot = 30.48 centimetres. 1 inch = 2,54
centimetres.
1 metre = 1.094 yard = 3.281 feet = 39.37 inches.
1 Imperial gallon (gall.) = 4 quarts (qts) = 8 pints (pts) = 32 gills.
1 Imperial gallon = 4.544 litres. 1 litre = 0.220 Imperial gallon.
1 pint = 0.568 litre. 1 litre = 1.76 pints.
In England by the term gallon (gall.) the Imperial gallon is meant,
whilst in the United States of America the considerably smaller apothecary's
or wine gallon is usually understood by this term. In England the ton or
gross ton of 2240 lbs is also exclusively in use, whilst in the United States
the term "ton" may refer either to the gross ton of 2240 lbs or the short
ton of 2000 lbs avoirdupois. The weights and measures used in this book
always refer to the Imperial gallon, and to the gross ton of 2240 lbs.
1 wine gallon = 4 quarts = 8 pints.
1 wme gallon = 3.785 litres. 1 litre = 0.264 wine gallon.
1 pint (apothecary's measure) r= 0.473 litre. 1 htre ^ 2.114 pints (apothecary's
measure).
1 Imperial gallon =1.2 wine gallon. 1 wine gallon = 0.8335 Imperial
gallon.
1 pound avoirdupois (lb) = 16 ounces (oz) = 256 drachms (drm).
1 pound avoirdupois = 7U00 Troy grains (gr).
1 ton (gross ton) = 20 hundredweights (cwt) = 2240 lbs.
1 hundredweight ^ 4 quarters (>8 lbs each) ^112 lbs.
1 ton = 1016 kilogrammes. 1 pound avoirdupois = 453. 593 grammes.
1 ounce = 28.349 grammes. 1 Troy grain = 0.065 gramme.
1 kilogramme ^ 2.205 lbs avoirdupois. 1 gramme = 15.434 Troy grains,
1 Imperial gallon holds 10 pounds avoirdupois or 70 000 grains water
(measured at 62° F. under a barometric pressure of 30 inches).
1 wine gallon holds only 8.35 lbs water.
III. Russian Weights and Measures.
1 sagen = 3 arshin = 7 feet.
1 foot =: 12 inches. 1 arshin = 16 vershock.
1 foot =: 30.48 centimetres. 1 inch = 2.54 centimetres. 1 Russian foot or
inch equal to 1 English foot or inch respectively.
1 arshin = 71.12 centimetres. 1 vershock = 4.45 centimetres.
1 metre = 3.28 feet = 39.37 inches = 1.41 arshin = 22.50 vershock.
1 vedro = 8 stof := 12 quart =; 30 krushki.
1 vedro = 12.30 litres. 1 stof =1.54 litre. 1 quart = 1.02 litre.
1 litre = 0.0813 vedro = 0.9756 quart.
1 i^d = 40 pounds (Russian). 1 pound = 32 lot = 96 solotnik.
1 ^ftd = 16.38 kilogrammes. 1 kilogramm* = 0.06 pood.
1 pound (Russian) = 409.51 grammes. 1 lot = 12.48 grammes.
1 solotnik = 4.16 grammes.
1 kilogramme = 2.44 pounds (Russian).
In Russian Poland the following weights and measures are used:
1 ell = 2 feet = 0.81 arshin = 12.96 vershock.
1 foot = 12 inches = 0.945 Russian foot = 11.34 Russian inches.
1 ell = 57.6 centimetres. 1 foot = 28.8 centimetres.
1 pound = 32 lots =^ 0.99 Russian pound = 405.50 grammes.
1 centner =: 4 stone =; 100 pounds = 2.476 pud.
254
INDEX.
INDEX.
Page
Acetates 244
Acetate of soda for unions . . 214
Acetic acid 239
Acid Brown 5, 137
Acid Chrome Colours, see :
Anthracene Colours .
Acid Colours 4—8
— in combination with logwood
or sumac 85 — 88
— Dissolving 3
for half-silk ....
for silk 136
Stripping the — ...
for union dyeing by the one
bath method ....
for wool . . ...
for wool and silk mixed
232
-139
83
149
4—8
217-226
137, 232
217, 232
. .' " 4
goods
-\cid Green .... 4,
Acid Magenta ... 4,
Acid Navy Blue
Acid Violet 4, 137
Acid Yellow .... 4, 137, 222
Aftertreatment with acetate or
formate of soda for unions
— with fornialdeh}'de . .82,
— with metal salts for silk . .
— — - for unions
— — for wool ... 9. 10, 12,
214
155
142
154
13
. . .82, 142
. 8, 136, 149
6, 8, 137, 149
137, 139, 151
. . S, 12, 149
— with tannic acid
Alkaline Blue . .
Alkaline Violet
Alphanol Black 6,
Alphanol Blue . .
Alum 245
Aluminium salts 245
Amaranth 5, 136
Ammonia liquor 240
Ammonium salts 244
Aniline Brown 14
Aniline Grey 5, 1:36
Page
Anthracene Acid Black . 9, 10, 11
Anthracene Acid Blue . . 10, 11
Anthracene Acid Brown 9, 10, 11, 1.39
— Blue Black . . . . 10, 11, 12
— Chromate Colours,
— Browm, — Green ... 12
— Chrome Black 10
— Chrome Blue . . . 9, 10, 11
— Chrome Brown. 9, 10, 11, 139
— Chrome Red 9, 11
— Chrome Violet 9, 11
Anthracene Colours, Anthracene
Chrome Colours, Anthracene
Acid Colours .... 9—12
— shading the — after chroming 12
Anthracene Yellow . .9-12, 139
Anthracite Black ... 6, 12, 139
Antimony salts 247
Apparatus. Dyeing in mechanical 59
Archil Substitute 4
Astrachan, Union ..... 181
Azo Chrome Blue 9
Azo Merino Black .... 4
Azo Merino Blue and Azo Merino
Dark Blue 6
Azo Navy Blue 4
Azo Orseille 4, 136
Azo Red 5, 1.36, 149
Azo Rubine 5, 136
Azo Wool Blue 4
Azo Wool Violet >. ... 4, 137
B.
Ball Colours 89
Basic Colours 14, 1.35—137, l.}9, 141,
142, 153, 158, 225, 233
— , Dissolving the — ... 3
— for shading logwood black . 143
Baumes hydrometer tables 252, 253
Bichromate of potash, or soda,
Bichromc 246
Bismarck Brown . 14, 137, 283
Bisulphate of soda .... 243
— 257 —
17e
Index.
Page
Bisulphite of soda ....
Bitartrate of potash . . .
Black liquor
Bleaching .... 35, 36, »
Bleaching powder, Bleaching
solution ....
Blue for silk DA . .
Blue stone, Blue vitriol
Borax, Borate of soda
Bordeaux BL
Bourette silk
Brilliant Cochineal
Brilliant Croccine
Brilliant Green .
Brilliant Milling Blue 6, 12,
139,
Brilliant Milling Green
14,
5,
137,
Brilliant Naphtol Bk
Brilliant Orseille C
Brilliant Scarlet
Brush braids . .
Burl d3"eing .
12,
139,
243
244
246
165
249
143
247
244
5
144
136
136
233
136,
149
136,
149
4
136
136
187
84
C.
Calcium hjpochlorite . . . 249
Cashmere, Union 173
Celsius or Centigrade thermometer
tables 251
Cerise 14, 137, 233
Cheeses, Dyeing of . . . .59, 61
Chemicals 237
Cheviot, Union 166
China Yellow 4, 137
Chloride of lime 249
Chloring of wool 52
Chromate Colours 12
Chrome 246
Chrome Colours, General dyeing
directions 9 — 12
— Shading after chroming . . 12
— Stripping 84
Chromed wool, DyestuflTs for . 11
Chromium fluoride .... 246
ChrysoVdine .... 14, 137, 233
Copper sulphate 247
Copperas 246
Cops, Dyeing of ... . 59, 61
Correcting defectively dyed pieces 83
Common salt 242
Coupling method for silk . . 143
— for Unions 155
Crcpons, Union 178
CroceVne AZ ... 5, IS*?, 149
Page
Cr3-stal Scarlet 5
Crystal Violet ... 14, 137, 233
Cyanole 4, 136
Cyanole Fast Green ... 4, 136
Cyanol Green 4, 136
D.
Dark Blue WS
Defectively dyed pieces, Correct-
92
mg
Diamine Colours for half-silk
— for silk
— — , Aftertreatment with metal
salts
— — — with tannin and anti-
mony
— — , Coupling
— — Diazotising and develop-
ing
— Stripping the — ....
— for Unions .... 156,
— — , Aftertreatment with metal
83
148
138
139
143
— — — with formaldehj'de
— — , Coupling
, Diazotismg and develop-
ing ...... 147,
— — for filling up the cotton
colour
— — for shading in a warm
dyebath
— for wool
— — , Aftertreatment with metal
salts • . .
— for wool and silk mixed goods
Diamine Fast Red 12, 13, 138,
154,
Diamond Magenta, see ^Magenta
Diazotising and developing on
143
84
160
154
155
155
160
158
150
13
13
220,
226
148,
230
silk
— on unions ....
Direct Rose T . . . .
Dissolving the dyestuffs .
Dyeing in apparatus . .
Dyeing of half-silk . .
— of hats, hat felts . .
— of shoddy, rags etc. .
— of silk
15
143
5, 160
13
3
59
229
113
192
135
— of slubbing and tops
— of uniform cloths . .
— of unions .....
37
97
147
containing silk . .
— of union felt . . .
206
186
258 —
Index.
Page
. . 17
59 60, 61
. . 65
. 91, 221
Dyi'ing of union yarn
— of wool (loose — )
— — in apparatus
— of wool piece-goods
— — with silk shots .
— of wool and silk mixed goods 217
— of wool yarn 35
— — (also cheeses, cops) in
apparatus . . . . 59, 60, 61
Dyeing instructions, General, for
half-silk 231—236
— for hats, hat felts . . 113—117
— for silk 140— 144
— for unions, shoddy etc. 152, 157
— for wool 4—14
— for wool and silk mixed goods
91, 217, 221
Dyestufifs for half-silk . . 230—237
— for hats, hat felts 118-127, 129
— for shoddy, rags etc. 148—151,
194-205
— for slubbing and tops
— for uniform cloths . .
— for unions 148 — 151, '.
— — fast to mercerising
— — fast to stoving ,
— for wool (Acid- Chrome,
Diamine, Basic Colours) .
— for wool (loose) . . ,
— for wool pieces
— for wool and silk mixed
goods 91, 217, 221
— for wool yarn, slubbing and
tops ........ 40—51
— — fast to stoving . . .54, 55
E.
Eau de Javelle 249
Effects, Cotton 68 — 79
— for hats 129
-, Silk — . . . 68—79, 91, 221
English weights and measures . 254
Eosine Colours ... 8, 136, 223
Erythrosine 8, 136
F.
Fahrenheit's thermometer table 251
Fast Acid Green . . . . 4, 137
Fast Blue 5, 136
Fast Brown 5
Fast Yellow 5
Felt, see Hats
— Union — 186
Ferrous sulphate 246
Fez caps, Fezzes . . 105, 115, 122
40-
-51
97-
-110
194-
-205
180
170,
171
4
-14
. 20
-31
68-
-82
Page
"Field Grey" 106
Flanelette 169
Fluorchrome 246
Formaldehyde, Aftertreatment
with — on unions . . . 154
— on wool 82
Formate of soda 244
— for unions 214
Formic acid 239
Formyl Bkte 6, 12, 137, 139, 149, 232
Formyl Violet 6, 12, 137, 139, 149, 232
Fur felt hats, see Hats
G.
Glauber's salt 242
Gloria Black .... 137, 219
Green for Silk MS. . . . 143
Green vitriol 246
H.
Hair for mixture felts . . . 128
Half-silk (cotton and silk^ . . 229
— Dyeing instructions for 231 — 2.36
— Dyestuffs for — . . 229-233
Half-wool, see Union
Hat Dyeing, Wool and Fur
Felt — 113
— Dyestuffs for — . 113,118—127
— Methods for black . . 116—117
— Methods for fancy shades 114— 116
Hats, Melange 128
Hats, Print and discharge
effects on — ..... 164
Hosiery, Union — .... 185
Hydrochloric acid .• ... 238
Hydrogene peroxide .... 248
Hydrometer tables . . 252, 253
Hydrosulphite of soda . . . 213
Hypochlorites 249
Hyraldite 250
— for stripping unions . . . 164
— — wool 83
I.
Imitation lambskin 169
Immedial Colours for halt-silk
dyeing . . . 233, 234, 235
— for silk dyeing 140
— for union dyeing . • . . 162
Indian Yellow ... 4, 137, 149
Indigo Blue 4, 136
Induline 5, 136
Irisamine 14, 1.36
Iron liquor, Iron salts . 246, 247
Italians, Union 174
259
17
Index.
Page
K.
Khaki dyeing 108
L.
Lactic acid 239
Lanacyl Blue . . . . 6, 82, 149
Lanacyl Navy Blue . . . 6, 149
Lanacyl Violet 6, 149
Lanafuchsine 4, 136
Levelling colours 4
Linings, Union 174
Livery cloths 95
Logwood in combination with
Acid Colours on wool 75, 88
Logwood black on silk. Shading
with Basic Colours . . . 143
Loose wool, see: Wool (loose).
Lustre goods. Union . . . 149
M.
Magenta 14, 137, 233
Malachite Green . . . .14, 137
Measures and weights . 253, 254
Melange hats .... 128, 129
Meltons, Union 168
Mercerising of Unions . . . 178
Metanil Yellow 4
Methyl Violet ... 14, 137, 233
Metric system 253
Military cloth 97
Milling Red ... 6, 149, 225
— Yellow . 6, 137, 139, 225, 232
Mixture felts . . . . 128, 129
Mohair plush .181
N.
Naphtalcne Yellow Crystals 6, 149
Naphtindono BB 136
Naphtol Black 5, 6
Xaphtol Blue 6, 149
Naphtol Blue Black . 5, 137, 149
Naphtol Dark Green 5, 137, 149
Naphtol Green . . . . 5, 137
Naphtol Red 5, 136
Naphtol Yellow .... 4, 137
Naphtyl Blue Black 7, 131, 139, 157
Naphtylamine Black 5, 6, 7, 9, 137,
139, 151, 219, 223
Naphtylamine Black and Naphtyl
Blue Black in combination
with logwood 85
— with sumac 87, 174
Navy Blue RSC 5
New Methylene Blue 14, 146, 233
Page
Nigrosine b
Nitrate of iron 247
Nitrite of soda 243
O.
One-bath method for Chrome
Colours 9, 10, 12
— for half-silk .... 232, 234
— for unions 147
Orange . . . 4, 5, 137, 149, 219
Orleans 171
Oxalate of ammonia .... 245
Oxalic acid 239
P.
Pastil colours 89
Peri Wool Blue 5
Permanganate of potash . . 248
Peroxide of hydrogen, of so-
dium 248
— Bleaching with — . . 36, 166
Phloxine 8, 136
Phosphate of soda 244
Potassium bichromate . . . 246
Potassium bitartrate .... 244
Potassium permanganate . . 248
Presidents 168
Pyrolignite of iron .... 246
R.
Rags, Dyeing of 192
Raw silk 144
Reaumur's thermometer table . 251
RoccelHne ... 5, 136, 149, 218
RosazeVne . 6, 136, 139, 198, 217
Rose Bengale extra N . . 8, 136
Russian Red 14, 136
Russian weights and measures 254
S.
Salt (Common salt) .... 242
Scarlet .... 5, 136, 218, 222
Scrooping of silk-wool . . . 53
Serges, Union 174
Shapes, see : Hats
Shoddy 4 . 192
— cloth with cotton warp . • 189
— containing silk 193
— Dyestuffs for — . . 194-205
— Stripping — 163
— Uncarbonised — .... 192
Silk 135
— , Bourette 144
— and cotton : see Half-silk .
260
Index.
Page
Silk effects . . . 68-79, 91, 221
— noils 14i
— Tussah — or Raw — . . 144
— in union goods . . . 206, 209
— and wool, see: Wool and
silk mixed goods
— wool 52
— — , Scrooping — .... 5."}
Silver Grey 5, 136
Slabbing and tops 35
Soda (Carbonate of) . . . . 241
Soda lye (Caustic) .... 240
Sodium peroxide 248
— Bleaching with — . . 36, 166
Sodium salts . 241—244, 246, 249
Sodium sulphide 241
Solid Green .... 14, 137, 233
Stripping colours .... 83, 163
Suitings, Union ... 166, 168
Sulphate of alumina .... 245
Sulphocyanide of ammonia . . 245
Sulphuric acid 238
Sumac 248
— in combination with Naphtyl
Blue Black
Tannic acid
— for increasing the fastness of
colours to water . . .82,
Tartar
— emetic
Tetra Cyanole ... 4, 136,
Thermometer tables ....
Thiocarmine 4,
Thioflavine S, see: Diamine
Colours
Thioflavine T, TCN . 14, 137,
Tropacoline .... 4, 149,
Tussah silk
Twaddle's b3drometer table
U.
Uniform cloths
Union Dyeing (Half-wool dye-
ing)
— Aftertreatment with formal-
dehyde in —
— — with metal salts in — .
— Colours fast to milling for .
— Coupling in —
— Diazotising and developing
87
142
244
247
218
251
149
233
144
252
Dyestufifs for — 148— 151 , 194-
One-bath method . . ]47,
147
155
154
153
155
156
205
152
Page
Union Dyeing, Two- bath method 157
Union felt 186
Union goods containing silk 200, 209
Union tapes ....... 187
Union yarn . • 188
V.
Vegetable impurities, Dyeing of —
in wool pieces 84
Victoria Blue .... 14, 54, 136
W.
Water, Fastness to — improving
by aftertreatment with tan-
nin 82, 142
Water Blue .... 5, 218, 232
W^eights and measures . 253, 254
Worsteds, Union 166
Wool Blue 5
Wool • . 3
— Colours, Dissolving — . . 3
— felt bats, see : Hats . . .
Wool (Loose) . 17
— , Bleaching, Carbonising . . 17
— , Dyeing — 18
— — in apparatus .... 59, 60
— Dyestuffs for — . . . . 20—31
— for mixtures extremely fast to
light 32
— for mixture-felts .... 128
Wool (Woollen and Worsted)
pieces 65
— Bleaching 66
— Carbonising, Scouring . . 65
— Correcting defectively dyed — 83
— Dyeing — 66
— — vegetable impurities in — ■ 84
— — with white or coloured
silk shots ' 91, 217
— Dyestuffs for — ... 67—79
, Fastness of . . . . 80—82
— Stripping colours off — . . 80
Wool Red . . . . 6, 12, 136, 149
— Silk — (Silk-wool) .... 52
— Scrooping of — 53
Wool and silk mixed goods 217
— Gentlemen's suitings 68 — 79, 91
— Ladies' dress goods . • . 217
Plain shades . . . • . 217
Two-coloured effects . . 221
Clearing the silk . . 224
261 —
Index.
Page
Wool and Silk mixed goods,
D}-eing the silk after the wool 225
Wool waste, — rags etc. . . 192
Wool (Woollen and Worsted)
Yarn 53
— Bleaching — 36
— "Chloring — 52
— Dyeing — 37
Wool }-arn. D3-eing in apparatus
59, 60, 61
Page
Wool yarn, DyestufFs for — 38, 40—51
— Scouring — 35
— Stoved or sulphurised
colours on — 53
Worsteds, Union 166
Y.
Yarn, Woollen and Worsted —
see Wool Yarn,
Yarn, Union ISS
- 252
PERCENTAGE TABLES
nrmS table provides the practical
dyer with a convenient and exact
method of converting percentages of
colour into avoirdupois.
The following may serve as an
example :
If QO lbs of material are to be
dyed with 1.69°/o of colour, proceed
as follows:
For 10 lbs, )% equals 1 oz 263 grains
" 50 " P/o " 8oz
For 60 lbs, l^/o equals 9 oz 263 grains 9 oz 263 grains
For 10 lbs, 0.69% equals 1 oz 46 grains
" 50 " 0.69% " 5 oz 228 grains
For 60 lbs, 0.69% equals 6 oz 274 grains 6 oz 274 grains
1.69% 15oz537 grains
or 1 lb 99 grains.
PERCENTAGE TABLES
Per Cent
For 10 Lbs For 50 Lbs
For 100 Lbs
10 '/o
9''/o
8%
7%
1 lb.
14 oz. 175 grains
12 oz. 350 grains
11 oz. 87 grains
5 lbs.
4- . lbs.
4 lbs.
3'/. lbs.
10 lbs. •
9 lbs.
8 lbs. !
7 lbs.
6-/0
y oz. 263 grains
3 lbs.
6 lbs.
i 5»/,
1 4%
8 oz.
6 oz. 175 grains
4 oz. 350 grains
3 oz. 83 grains
ru lbs.
2 lbs.
v:2 lbs.
1 lb
5 lbs.
4 lbs.
3 lbs.
2 lbs.
! i"/o
1 oz. 263 grains
8 oz.
] lb.
0.99
0.9.S
1 0.9T
0.9(i
1 oz. 2">6 grains
1 oz. 249 grains
1 oz. 242 grains
1 oz. 235 grains
7 oz. 403 grains
7 oz. o68 grains
7 oz. 333 grains
7 oz. 298 grains
15 oz. o68 grains '
15 oz. 298 grains
15 oz. 228 grains
15 oz. 158 grains
0.95
1 oz. 228 grains
7 oz. 263 grains
15 oz. 88 grains
94
0.9;5
0.9>
i 0.91
1 oz. 221 grains
1 oz. 214 grains
1 oz. 207 grains
1 oz. 2uO grains
7 oz. 2:^8 grains
7 oz. 193 grains
7 oz. 158 grains
7 oz. 123 grains
15 oz. 18 grains
14 oz. 385 grains
14 oz. .S15 grains
14 oz. 245 grains
0.90
1 oz. 193 grains
7 oz. 88 grains
U oz. 175 grains j
0.89
O..SS
0.87
0.86
1 oz. 186 grains
1 oz. 179 grains
1 oz. 172 grains
1 oz. 165 grains
7 oz. 53 grains
7 oz. 18 grains
6 oz. 420 grains
6 oz. 385 grains
14 oz. 105 grains
14 oz. 35 grains
13 oz. 403 grains |
13 oz. 333 grains j
0.85
1 oz. 158 grains
6 oz. 350 grains
13 oz. 263 grains
0.84
0.83
0.8->
0.81
1 oz. 151 grains
1 oz. 144 grains
1 oz. 137 grains
1 oz. 130 grains
6 oz. 315 graiis
6 oz. 280 grains
6 oz. 245 grains
6 oz. 210 grains
13 oz. 193 grains
13 oz. 123 grains
13 oz. 53 grains
12 oz. 420 grains
; 0.80
1 oz. 123 grains
6 oz. 175 grains
12 oz. 350 grains j
0.79
0.78
0.77
0.76
1 oz. 116 grains
1 oz. 109 grains
1 oz. 102 grains
1 oz. 95 grains
6 oz. 140 grains
6 oz. 105 grains
6 oz. 70 grains
6 oz. 35 grains
12 oz. 280 grains j
12 oz. 210 grains j
12 oz. 140 grains
12 oz. 70 grains
0.75
1 oz. 88 grains
6 oz
12 oz.
1 0.74
0.7:5
0.7>
0.71
1 oz. 81 grains
1 oz. 74 grains
1 oz. 67 grains
1 oz. 60 grains
5 oz. 403 grains
5 oz. 368 grains
5 oz. 333 grains
5 oz. 298 grains
11 oz. 868 grains
11 oz. 298 grains
11 oz. 228 grains
11 oz. 158 grains
0.70
1 oz. 53 grains
5 oz. 263 grains
11 oz. 88 grains
Per Cent
0.69
0.08
«.«7
0.66
«.6-3
0.61
0.59
0.58
0.57
05C
0.54
0.53
0.5>
0.51
0.49
0.48
0.47
0.46
0.44
0.43
0.42
0.41
0.39
0.38
0.37
0.36
034
033
0.32
31
PERCENTAGE TABLES
For 10 Lbs
1 oz. 25
46 gi
39 e>
32 grains
g
1 oz. 18 grains
11 g
4 e
434 g
i-21 B
413 gi
400 gra
385
378 g
371 g
364 g
357 g
350 gi
301
294
287
280 g
245 grains
224
7 grains
210 gra
For 50 Lbs
5 oz. 228 grains
5 oz. 19.i grains
5 oz. 158 grains
5 oz. 123 grains
1 grains
5 oz. 53 grains
5 oz. 18 grains
4 oz. 420 grains
4 oz. 385 grains
360 grail
4 oz. 315 grain
i oz. 230 grain
4 oz. 245 grain
4 oz. 210 grain
4 oz. 175 grains
4 oz. 140 grains
4 oz. 105 grains
4 oz. 70 grains
3 oz. 403 gra
3 oz 3U8 gra
3 oz .3.33 gra
3 oz. 298 gra
3 oz. 2'53 gra
3 oz. 228 gra
3 oz. 193 gia
3 oz. 158 gra
3 oz. 123 gra
i oz 88 gra
3 oz. 53 gra
3 oz. 18 gra
2 oz. 420 gra
2 oz. 385 gra
350
2 oz. 315 gra
2 oz. 280 gra
2 oz. 245 gra
2 oz. 210 gra
2 oz. 175 gia
For 100 Lbs
grains
grains
grains
grains
grains
grains
9 oz. 123
9 oz. 53
8 oz. 420
grains
grains
8 oz. 280
8 oz. 210
8 oz. 140
8 oz. 70
grams
grains
grains
grains
grains
7 oz. 88 grams
grams
grains
grains
grains
6 oz. 105
6 oz. 35
5 oz. 403
5 oz. 333
grams
grains
grains
4 oz. 3M grains
PERCENTAGE TABLES
Per Cent
For 10 Lbs
For 50 Lbs
For 100 Lbs
0.29
0.28
0.27
0.26
203 grains
196 grains
189 grains
182 grains
2 oz. 140 grains
2 oz. 105 grains
2 oz. 70 grains
2 oz. 35 grains
4 oz. 210 grains i
4 oz. 140 grains
4 oz. 70 grains
0.25
175 grains
2 oz.
4 oz.
0.24
0.23
0.22
0.21
168 grams
161 grains
154 grains
147 grains
1 oz. 403 grains
1 oz. 368 grains
1 oz. 333 grains
1 oz. 298 grains
3 oz. 368 grains
3 oz. 298 grains
3 cz. 228 grains
3 oz. 158 grains
0.20
140 grains
1 oz. 263 grains
3 oz. 88 grains
0.19
0.18
0.17
0.16
126 grains
119 grains
112 grains
1 oz. 22S grains
1 oz. 193 grains
1 oz. 158 grains
1 oz. 12 S grains
3 oz. 18 grains
2 oz. 385 grains
2 oz 315 grains
2 oz. 2)5 grains
0.15
105 grains
1 oz. 88 grains
2 oz 175 grains
0.14
0.13
0.12
0.11
98 grains
91 grains
84 grains
77 grains
1 oz. 53 grains
1 oz. 18 grains
420 grains
385 grains
2 oz. 105 grains
2 oz. 35 grains
1 oz. 408 grains
1 oz. 333 grains
0.10
70 grams
350 grains
1 oz. 263 grains
0.09
0.08
0.07
' 0.06
63 grains
56 grains
49 grains
42 grains
315 grains
280 grains
245 grains
210 grains
1 oz. 193 grains
1 oz. 12t grains
1 oz. 53 grains
420 grains
0.05
.35 grains
175 grains
.350 grains 1
0.04
0.03
0.02
0.01
28 grains
21 grains
14 grams
7 grams
140 grains
105 grains
70 grains
S5 grains
2t(0 grains
210 grains
140 grains
70 grains
In giving these weights, we have confined ourselves entirely to pounds,
ounces and grains, leaving out drachms and scruples.
We figure:
1 pound = 16 ounces =: 7000 grains
1 ounce = 437.5 grains
Very often smaller weights than ounces are not available in a dyehouse,
in such a case, United States coins may be used as weights, in the following
10 cent piece (silver) = 39 grains. 5 cent piece (nickel) = 77 grains.
1 cent piece (copper) = 47 grains. 25 cent piece (silver) = 95 grains.
50 cent piece (silver) = 190 grains.
v
Notes.
Notes.
Notes.
Notes.
Notes.
Notes.
SOUTHEASTERN MASSACHUSETTS UNIVERSIT
3 EiE2 DD31b Tb7 b
SPECIALCOLL TP897 . C381908v. 2
Cassella Color Company, New
York. C.2
A manual of dyeing with the
/^Ij/o c-(-ii
■F-Fo r^-F H
hHo Paccolla 1
V/. €^
Library Bureau Cat. No. 1137
