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THIS  BOOK 

FOKMS  PART  OF  THE 

ORJCINAL  LIBRARY 

OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF  MICHIGAN 

BOUGHT  IN  EUKOPE 

1838  TO  1839 


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MARITIME  GEOGRAPHY 

STATISTIC 

OK  '^- >-.:     , 

A  DESCRIPTION 

OP  THE 

0ttm  anti  tte  Coa0t0» 

MARITIME  COMMERCE,  NAVIGATION, 

^.  a;c.  Ssc,     .   ■ 


««  Lc  Tridttit  de  Neptune  est  le  Sceptre  du  Monde." 


By    JAMES  KINGSTON    TUCKEY, 

A  CammoHder  in  the  Royal  Navy, 


nr  FOUB  VOLUMES. 

VOL.  11. 


LONDON 


PRIMTSD   FOK   BJLAOK,  PAUIT>  Aim  CO-  *p<»J*UUB»8   TO  THl 
HOK.  BAST-INPJA  COMFANT^  LIADBNHALL   STRIET, 

1815. 


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i' .  -I,. 


*  -      .'  #•  -*i^** 


FrinMd  by  Cox  and  Baylii;  75»  Great  (^ciftStre^ 
LiBcoln*i-1im-neldt,  iMulon. 


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CONTENTS  OP  VOL.  II. 


Fjrancs         -        ••        •        •        .        ..         .^1 

Extent^  coasts  -        •       -        -        .    *   .        J       '.    jj. 
Riven      --        .        -        ....        ,        .7 

Canals      •        •        .        •        .       1..        -U) 
PortTowns       -        -        ...       ^.        .11 
Islands      •        .        •        .        •        .        ..        -,24 
Commerce         -        -        -.-        -"--        -30 
Colonies    -        -        --        .■..        «        -36 

Commercial  Treaties  -        •        •        •'-        ^        -40 

,  Consok     •        •        -        -        •        •.'•        -42 

Home  Fisheries  -••-•..•43 

foreign  Fisheries       -        -        ...        .'.        -46 

Navy        -....        ...-48 

Prizes       -        -        •        -        -        •        *        .        -'66 

S?AIK "-         .'-         -         -'70 

,    Coasts  and  Capes       -        --        -        -        -        -t^« 

Bivers  -  -  -•  •  •  .  -'•72 
Canals,  Port  Towns  -"-.  •  -  ,  •  jq 
Commerce  of  the  northern  Provinces  *  -  -  -  88 
Navy        -      ,-        -        .        -        :        .        .        .90 

PoBTUOAL    -".".'-        ...        .        -94 

..Coasts  and  head-lands        .  *    .  '     •        .        .        .    i^. 

Rivers       -        -.        -        •        -".".'.95 

Port  Towns -98 

A  2 


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IV  CONTENTS. 

Page 
Commerce         •.»..-..  ]0$ 

Colonies,  Azores,  Madeira  .        .  .  •  .  109 

— — — —  West  Coast  of  Africa  -        -  -  -  -  tft. 

—- |;^t  C*t*  #f  ^^  ^        -'  -.  ,  r  •  HO 

East-Indies,  Brasil ,  -  '.  .  ..  -  111 

Compnercial  Treaties  •        -  -        -  -  -  -115 

,  Fisheries  -        -        -        -  -        -  -  -  -,114 

Navy -' 115 

The  BiEDITBSRANEAir    -  m  -  -  -  -  -119 

Extent,  Strait  of  Gibraltar,  formation          -        -        -   i6. 
6ulfe 120 

'   Let«,  depth     .        .*.'.-..-  ^  -121 
Currents,  tides  -        -        -        -"•'-'       -122 

Irregular  elevations,  whirlpools  -        -        -      '  -  123 

Meteors,  saltness       -        -        -        -        -        •    .    •  12^ 
Springs  of  fresh  water  in  the  Sea  -        -        -        1  126 

.    winds       ...        -■.".".   *    -^      ^'ft. 
Climate    -        -        -        -'-        -        -J        -127 
Marine  productions,  coral,   shell-fisL        "    «    '    -         -  128 
Fish  -        .        ....        -  ■     :        -  131 

Cetaceous  and  amphibious  animals        -         -        -      *  -  I4O 
Turtle,  sea-birds        -        -        -        -        -        -    .    •  141 

S*»Ai>j  -    .    -    ,    -        •-'.".".","  ^^* 

Coasts       -     .    -     .   -    .    -    ^   "     .    -     .   -        -     y-    **• 

Rivers      -        -   _    -        -        -        -        -        -     ^  -  145 

Pprt  Towns        -        -        "        "   ,     '        *,       *        7  ^^^ 

Spanish  Islands  -         "    .    '   .    "        *         '        *        ".^^ 

Majorca  -        -        -        -        -        -        -.-  161 

•*  •  "  -         -  .-'til/-' 

Dragonera     --.---•-  166 

Cabrera,  small  Islands    -        -        -        J'  -        -  167 

Minorca         -        -        -        -        -        -        --  168 

Pityuses -  .     -  ,^^4 

Yvica '    ''"-\^^.n[l7B 

.Formentera    -        -        -        -        -        -        -.„     -jf7S' 


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€*Nt£N1*9. 


•    -    •    ^;  ^i*  479 

-^-     -    '    .'      ^187 
-        -        -       4  #. 


Krancb     •  .    -  . 

'  t  CoAStS    -     - 

Hirers  -  - 
* '  tort  Towns  -  - 
Utalt       -  -    -  .   . 

Nice     -    .    -    - 
^^'l^rincipdity  of  Monaco 
^ '  Territory  of  Gcnoff   --.•-*      j 
'    IPriocipfllity  of  Lu(%a^  Toscany  -    -  •    * 
^     State  of  the-f^hnrdi      ------- 

•  'Naples-   .-.-.-.        .-- 

State  of  the  Chardi  on  die  Adriatic    -  • 
'^    aepublte  of  Venice    -        -  -     -        -    !  ' 
^^fa^KiAN  Islands,  Corsica      -        -  -     -  - 
«  -  Kba         -        -        .        -        .  -     A«    " 
' '    Oapraja,  Ronosa^  Monte  ChAWH  JJJte.  -'    -;   >    •*»  '^  --  228 

•Sardinia    .        -        - 

Sicily 

Upari  islands    -        -  - 

Pantelaria,  Linos^  Malta  ^ 

*  €k>zo,  Lampedosa     • 
ImiA         -       -  -    - 

-CaOATIA      -  -    '      - 

^  Haxiiatix    •       -  '     - 

Raqusa  '     -        -        • 
•  CKttaro      -  -     . 

'fuaKBT  IN  Europe^  Albania 


.      hU  191 

-.     '^493 

ii.  .'|m''i95 

-  In  -210 
i-  '    -.'213 

-  . : :•  220 
..1   :  w  225 


Morea  •  •  -  "  - 
'  Greece  -  -  -  -  "  - 
Tva&ET  IN  Asia  -  •  -  - 
-'  AsialMQnor 

Syria         •        - ' 
Ionian  Islands' 
Turkish  Islands,  archipelago 

Cyprus      •        -        -  . 


--       •-      •-      m,     '     *-  ib, 

.  -     .  -    4.    ;-  .»  ^  233 

.  -  -  -  ,'-^:r;t.  U ;  •_•  ».2d9 
i-  i.:  ■.'•I  .  .-:  .  ^\  :  •  242 
.  -       ^    •■     ta  .  .1  *•; .  .^r  ^.246 

/ :   .  247 

.  :.':  i#7  ,t^  ,/).:  ;.-  *  249 
.  -      •   -      -  u-  )i   jvl  -  250 

-  -      .    w"^.  rm/:>:,  253 

.  .  .,.  .  -^-ii/ir?  -  254 
wt:i.X  ,f!'«^'.  '•.'('  -  255 
^f  !!(f,.!if.  •*•  '  .¥!,.  ■«  263 
.-      *    .'  V    :  ...    /:4'272 

L..  -V.   *..■..;;/  -  276 

..  .'    '  .,     ->•.-;.  -  277 

-  ^  -  -  -  -  ...  285 
.-  -       va       i-        *  293 

-        -  301 
332 


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VI  CONTimTgU 

\i    ,  Page 

'^firbary^  Morocco     .-     .-     .--..-..  ,3^ 

Algiers-   -.-.-.--..,...  .340 

^«»'« .._-..  ,343 

Tripoli     .-....•...        .        .  ,,,45 

Islands  and  reefe  on  the  coast  of  Barbary      -        -  -  34^ 

Jp*      -------■-..». 

Black  Sea,  name,  extent,  formation        -        .        .  .355 

IU«en»  currents     .-,-.-..        _        .  -857 

Climate,  fish     •        .        .        .        .    — .        .  .  353 

■  HeUespont         ...        .        .        .        .        -  .  860 

Propontis          .        ...        .......  .363 

Bosphorus         ...        ...        .        ;.  .3(58 

Coasts  of  the  Black  Sea      -  .     .        ....  .  ,372 

Crimea     -        .......        .        ,        .  .  ajg 

Coasts  of  Anatolia     -        -   .     -        .    .    -   _    .  r.  353 

Laziens^  Guriens^  Sfingretians   -     •- 334 

^^^^ ,     .        ...  386 

SeaofAsopb    --        -        .        -_«        ..  307 

NogayTartar.  -.-..'..  ".393 

COMMBRCB  OP  THE  MEDITERRANBAtT          -           -;           *  -   389 

.  Ancient  commerce     -        -.•.....        .  ^^l 

Spain  .     .        -        ...        ...        ,        .  ^3^5 

Italy:  Genoa^  Vanice  .     -.     ..     .-.  ..  4^2 

-  Legkom        ....        .  _     -  .     -  ^     .  ,     -.  .  .  -  4J3 

Naples,  Sicily   .     -        •         ......  .414 

Sardinia  -     -  -     -        .        .        ^        .  \,^ 

Rome,  Malte,  Trieste    -        -  :  ;  -  j.,., .    ,    .  ,^  ^17 

*  IsTRU :  Croatia,  Dalmatia        .        .  ,     .        .  ,    413 

Turmy:  Greeks      -        -        .  .      .  ,      ,        .  .^  419 

Albania,  Greeee,  and  Morea  -^      . .      .        .  \  a2Q 

Anatolia,  Syria      -        -        ......  ^  422 

*tafPt      -        -        .        .  .      . .      ...        .  .,  423 

-TurkishNafy    ....        ..      ,,      ..      .,  .  ^^ 


'  • .  I  • 


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CONTENTS.  Vii 

BabBary  States  :  Algiers, Tunis  -        .        .t      •428 

^  Naval  Forces     -        -        -        .    -   .    -    .        -''<''.• -430 

COMMERCB  Of^THE  BlAC|L  SbA  -      -    .      -    -  >.       '-431 

Ancient  commerce     ------.        ,        ^j       -'  U. 

'    Present  commerce  '  -        -    -  -        .  ;    *v     ;'.    :  ^*  4.^ 

The  West  Coast  OF  Africa     -   -    -  -        -        -^     'U438 

^•Divisiom  -.      -   •    -       -'      .        .  '    ^-      l^^ib. 

Coasts,  rivers,  surf  -         -•-••.  440 

.  Climate,  winds,  <nirrents  -        -        -        -        .  44I 

Description  ol  the  Natives  of  ^he  West  Coast  of  Africa '  446 
Moors  of  tbe'Desert  -        -        -        -'       -        :,  ,      L"  ^5' 

Nqg^roes    -        .        .        .    "   .    ■   .        .        .        .415^ 

Kaffers      -        m        .        •        •        .~.        ^        ^  ^eU 
Rise  and  progress  of  the  European  establishments  on  Ac 

West  Coast  of  Africa 461 

Portuguese    ---..        -.-..|^. 
French-        -•-....•  454 

English 466 

I>ittch  ----•»...  469 

Danes,  Spaniards    -        -*        .        .        •        .        .  ^^q 

Articles  of  trade        -•-..•.  471 

Of  the  Slave  Trade 476 

African  Associations  ---.».»  494 

Coast  of  Blorocoo      ---..•.  4gj 

Trade  of  Ifbrocoo  •-«-•«.  502 

Coast  of  the  Desert  (tf  Sahara 503 

Sen«ambia      - 606 

Bissagos  Islands         -        -        .        •        .        .        •  5ig 
SierraLeone     -•••••••  520 

Quoja  Coast      ..• 524 

Giam  Coast 525 

Ivory  Cbast      •••••••«  627 

Gold  Coast       -. 628 

Slave  Coast       »-..««•..  532 


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VJH 


CONT£NT3« 


J  Coast  of  Benin- 
Jjobbi  Coast  .  • 

{xnngo.Coast  - 
(Congo  Coast  «  - 

ABgola^^Benguda 

Cd&arla  -    .   - 

■  Islands  ill  tha  JGKiU.  of  Guinea. 


Nptis.     -     -        -^       -.        r 
B^niesj  Weights^  and  Measures 
£|^grapbical  Positions  - 
b^ex  .... 


Pag^ 
^534 
•»37 
.536 
.  541 
.  (42 

*  944 


547 
564 

672 
i77 


j. . 
.  ,   )  f- 


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MARITIME  GEOGRAPHY- 


FRANCE. 


The  Kingdom  of  France  returned  within  its 
antient  limits,  by  the  greatest  revolution  in  the 
history  of  nations,  is  washed  by  the  British  Sea 
mid  English  Channel  on  the  north,  by  Jiie  Bay  c£ 
Biscay  on  the  west,  and  by  the  Mediterranean 
on  the  south.  The  extent  of  coast  on  each  of 
these  seas  is 

On  the  British  Sea  from  the  boundary 
line  between  Dunkirk  and  Nieuport  to 

Cape  Grisnez • 1§ 

On  the  English  Channel  from  Cape  Gris- 
nez to  Ushant 145 

On  the  Atlantic  of  Bay  of  Biscay  from 

Ushant  to  the  Bidassoa 1S5 

On  the  Mediterranean  from  Port  Vendres 

totheVar •       80 

To  the  west  of  Calais  commences  a  succession 
of  chalky  cMs,  and  here  and  there  the  sea  has 
thrown  up  ridges  of  pebbles  on  the  beach,  resem* 
Ming  the  dike  (rf*  Dobberan  in  Mecklenburg. 
Cape  Blancnez  is  the  firsts  ^int  of  land  west  of 
TOL.  n.  B '  Calais^ 


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2  MARITIME  GEOGRAP&TV 

Calais,  and  Cape  Grisnez,  W.  S.W,  four  league* 
from  the  same  town,  is  the  nearest  point  of  France 
to  the  coast  of  England,  being  distant  from  Dover 
eighteen  mfles.  W.  N,  W.  four  leagues  from  Cap^ 
Grrisnez  is  the  Calbarde  bank,  two  leagues  long^ 
and  with  only  fourteen  to  fifteen  feet  water. 

Tlie  Coast  of  Kritany  and  a  part  of  that  of  Nor-^ 
mandy,  are  defended  from  the  invasion  of  the  sea 
by  enormous  masses  of  granite,  which,  however, 
have  not  been  able  to  resist  the  constant  action: 
of  the  Atlantic  waves,  driven  against  them  by  the 
prevailing  westerly  winds,  and  which  have  formed 
numeroua  bays,  peninsulas,  capes,  and  isolated 
rocks. 

The  Bay  of  Calvados  is  bounded  by  Cape  de 
Caux  OT  Antiftf  on  the  east,  and  by  Cape  Bar- 
fleur  on  the  wert.  The  Calvados  rocks  in  this 
bay  are  a  ledge  above  water,  two  leagues  long, 
lining  the  sho^e,  and  have  tlieir  name  from  a 
Spanish  ship  wrecked  on  them. 

The  Seine  empties  itself  into  the  east  part  of 
Calvados  bay,  and  on  the  north  point  of  the  en-^ 
trance.  Cape  la  Heve,  are  two  lights.  Cape  Bar- 
fleur  is  a  low  promontory,  with  a  light'^house  on 
one  of  its  rocky  points,  called  C^pe  GatteviUc, 
which  projects  300  fathoms  into  the  sea,  and  is 
naturally  level  with  it,  but  has  been  raised  to  pre- 
vent the  waves  breaking  against  the  Ught-hou^  j 
which  latter  is  of  granite,  and  is  103  feet  high. 

The  Gulf  of  St.  Malo  is  a  great  indentatioti 
between  Cape  la  Hague  on  the  east  and  Breh^ 
island  on  the  west« .  On  Caj>e  la  H^ue  is  ^n*  old 

castle.^ 


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«astie.  lliis  gulf  fanns  several  bays  of  whicb 
Concale,  St  Mala,  Femey,  and  St.  Bneux^  are 
the  most  ccmsideratdei  Concale  bay  at  the  S.E; 
e^ttremity  of  the  gulf,  has  ten  leagues  of  coasts 
imth  good  anchorage  for  &e  largest  fleets  in  four 
io  thirteen  fathoms  j  but  there  are  severd  dangers 
in  iU  so  that  it,  ad  well  as  all  the  coast  from  Capei 
la  Hague  to  Ushant,  requires  experienced  pilots. 
Femey  bay  is  limited  on  the  west  by  Gape  Frehel, 
iiigh  and  steep,  with  a  light-house;  lliis  point 
id  likewise  the  east  limit  of  St.  Brieui  bay,  wiiich 
lias  good  anchorage  in  ten  fathoms,  but  is  l^ed  with 
rocks  £md  islands.  Near  Morlaix  a  vast  submerged 
forest  of  oak»  yew^  and  birch  has  been  lately 
di^overed. 

Doubling  Ushaijit,  we  quit  the  English  Channel 
ftnd  enter  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  the  Gulf  of  Gas- 
4^ny  cff  the  French  arid  the  antiefnt  Odeanus  Aqut-* 
Jamcu^,  of  which  Cape  Ortegad  is  the  south  limits 
This  gulf  is  chiefly  remarkable  for  the  heavy  sea 
produced  in  it  by  N.W^  winds,  Imd  for  the  con-* 
Btant  S.E.  current  setting  into  it  The  coast  from 
Usbant  to  the  Gironde  is  much  broken  by  bay? 
and  mouths  of  rivers^  and  has  many  idands.  Th€f 
principal  bays  necessary  to  notice  here  are  -Dow 
«meneZ|  which  in  north  and  N.E^  winds  affords 
^ood  anchorage  for  the  largest  fleets  in  ten  fathoms ; 
Audierfiie  or  Hodiemci  which  is  open^  and  Quifoe 
ron,  formed  by  a  peninsula  on  the  west }  the 
Crulf  of  Morbihan,  a  kind  of  sea  lagoon  with  many 
inhabited  islands  formed  on  the  east  by  the  penin* 

i3  sula 


OfHtH 


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4  itfARlTIME  GEOGRAPHY* 

sida  of  Rhuys,  and  the  Bay  of  *Bourgneiif,  wHhiil 
the  kle  of  Noirmoutier. 

The  rocks  of  Penmark  off  the  south  point  of 
Audieme  bay  are  many  black  masses,  of  which 
that  named  the  Torch  is  separated  from  the  main 
by  a  narrow  channel,  called  the  Monk's  Leap.  On 
the  coast  near  Crozon  are  several  caverns,  thirty 
to  forty  feet  high,  and  sixty  to  eighty  broad,  which 
serve  as  retreats  to  aquatic  birds,  and  in  storms  the 
waves  rush  into  them  with  great  fuiy  and  noise. 
Near  Plougef  is  an  abyss  in  which  the  sea  engulfs 
itself  with  a  horrid  uproar.  The  rocks  at  the  bot- 
tom are  of  a  reddish  colour,  and  from  the  eflects 
of  the  vapour,  appear  to  be  in  movement,  whence 
it  has  received  the  name  of  Hell.  Pomt  Raty  is 
a  naked  rock  rising  perpendicularly  from  the  sea 
to  300  feet ;  near  it  is  the  Bay  of  Tr^passes,  thus 
named  from  the  great  number  of  shipwrecks  in 
it.  Near  Brigueau  are  also  ipany  sea^wom  cavei'n^ 
and  another  abyss  named  Belaigenet,  as  well  as  a 
circular  basin  in  the  rock,  called  Diana's  Bath,  which 
art  could  not  surpass  in  proportion  or  execution. 

From  the  entrance  of  the  Giionde  to  the  Adour, 
a  distance  of  sixty  leagues,  the  coast  is  entirely 
composed  of  sandy  downs  named  Landes^  from 
one  to  three  leagues  broad,  and  which  continually 
encroach  on  the  cultivated  grounds,  at  the  esti- 
mated  rate  of  seventy-five  to  eighty  feet  a  year  j  so 
that  if  tliis  progression  continued,  Bordeaux  would 
'  be  ovei'whelmed  in  eighteen  centuries.  Even  in 
modem  time^  several  villages  have  disappeared,  and 

at 


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FHANCE.  5 

at  present  the  inhabitants  of  Verdan  are  frequently 
dbliged  to  clear  the  streets  of  the  sand  Mown  into 
them  by  strong .  westerly  winds.  The  declivittesi 
of  these  downs  towards  the  sea  are  totally  bare  of 
v^etation,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  weak  gra« 
m^isand  the  arendria  pephides  (sea  chick-weed) 
which  are  scantily  spread  in  some  hoUows,  shd« 
tered  by  the  temporary  elevations,  of  the  saiid& 
Since  1788,  the  gorernment  has  attempted  check* 
ing  the  progress  of  the  downs,  by.  raising  pines  from 
Meds  on  their  internal  declivities,  and  as  far  as  tiie 
experiment  has  been  tried,  it  is  said  to  have  suc« 
ceeded.  While  the  sand  of  these  downs  is  over* 
whelming  the  cultivated  lands,  the  sea  undermines 
end  encroaches  on  them,  and  the  bimk  of  Matoc, 
ovesflowed  every  high  tide,  is  tiie  .remains  of  a 
considerable  tract  of  land  thiK  washed  away.  On 
this  desolate  coast  are  several  lakes  or  lagoons 
communicatti^  with  the  sea  by  cbaainds  called 
Bocauts ;  the  principal  of  them  is:  the  basin  of 
Arca9on,  fifteen  leagues  in  circuit,  but  ^most 
iiseless  to  navi^tion.  The  portion  which  is  shel- 
tered by  the  pine  forest  of  Arc^on  from  south 
and  SiW.  winds,  has  sufficient  space  and  depth 
for  100  sail  of  the  lin&  but  the  winds  and  waves 
from  the  Aorth  and  N.W,  drive  such  quantities  of 
sand  and  gravel  into  the  basin,  th^t  the  channels 
are  continually  shifting,  so  that  permfinent  land-r 
marks  would  be  useless.  This  inconvenience  how* 
ever  might  be  overcome  by  a  regular  system  of 
pilotage,  and  itn  excellent  nayal  station  be  formed 

8  3  here; 


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6  MARITIME   G£0«^RAPH¥. 

^«-  htoe»  at  kaafc  for  frigates^  Ther^  are  two  efaaiiT 
ndfi;  the  northern  caJled  the  Papon  Passage,  is 
between  Cape  Feret  on  die  north,  and  Teray  k^ 
land ;  it  ia  a  ntiie  broad,  but  at  pesent  is  iim 
practicable.  The  southern  channel  is  betweeii 
Teray  Island  an4  Cape  Brunet  on  the  south,  and 
is  difficult  and  dang^ous ;  the  little  wooden  battery 
of  la  Roquette^  whiph  defends  it^^  is  on  a  pointy 
and  mounts  thfee  or  fdur  field  pieces*  llie  foaai^ 
of  Arca^on  has  a  productive  fishery  of  roach^ 
mackarel,  soles,  sprats,  and  oysters.  The  takii^ 
of  wild  diifks  in  the  season  is  also  a  profitable 
branch  of  industry ;  these  birds  arrive  in  vast 
liumbers  at  ihe  beginning  of  winter,  and  are  cauj^ 
jn  nets  spread  over  the  sandrbanks  and  devated 
by  long  poles.  At  nig}it  wh^  it  does  not  rain^ 
ai^d  they  consequently  cannot  quench  their  thirst 
pn  the  wing,  in  skimmii^  over  the  basin  towards 
the  fresh  takes  and  marshes  they  get  entangled 
ia  the  nets^  and  are  sefit  by  cart-load^  to  Boiv 
fSeaux^ 

linear  Biarita  we  some  singular  grottoes,  and 
f ocks  resembling  t^e  ruin^  of  temples,  bridges^^ 
ice.  formed  by  the  ^tion  of  the  waves.  Amongst 
the  caverns  is  one  palled  the  Chamber  of  Lovcj^ 
which  in  shape  resembles  the  half  of  a  bee^hive 
eut  verticsdly,  and  is  forty  feet  in  diameter  and 
twenty  feet  high.  All  the  rocks  are  coipposed  of 
very  fine  yellow  sand,  strongly  agglutinated,  and 
containing  vast  quantities  of  numismal  stones^ 
yery  staall  and  white.    Frg>m  hence  t^  Cape  St> 


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VmANOB. 


Mitdn,  the  shwe  k  fofmed  of  perpendicidar  clift 
forty-eight  to  fifty  feat  high,   and  furrowed  with 


ravines. 


There  are  few  if  any  countries  better  watered 
than  Fr^ce,  her  rivers  being  extremely  numerous 
though  she  has  none  of  the  first  class,  and  but 
few  of  the  second  or  third.  Those  that  fall  in0 
the  British  Sea  and  English  Channel  are; 


Aa,      at  Gravelines 

ToiMiii6s,atTo«qa^ 

Hames^    Calais 

Wvf, 

9im  . 

Selagne^  S.  of  Cape  Qriaoez 

Ornc, 

bd^sr  Caen 

Amblett^e 

Drome^ 

TorttnpBBfm    ' 

&'mereax,  betmea  AmUilfiue 

Seule, 

Courseulie 

andBo^logoe 

Vire, 

Isigni 

Jiiane^     Boulogne 

Taute, 

jPawDtaa 

Canche,    Etapkt      . 

Sinope^ 

Quinevitte    ,  . 

Anthie,    Bdchelk 

Saire, 

RcviUc 

Sonme*    8.Val«ffy 

Divctte, 

C^rbarg 

3ioikj     'Bnep^ct 

Dielette, 

Yers^       CM 

Af. 

lUHMf 

f^^}  Dieppe 
Arque3>   3 

Sienne^ 

b»tw^en  Agon  and 

jUgneville 

fy/^ne  or  Seye     . 

V^lee, 

Cingrevilie 

D^^danJ^  ^  '  ^ 

Boscq, 

Granville       ^' 

Vlttcflcur, 

Tar,        < 

V      /        '  *'     ' 

^%\ne,      LeBavre 

Sees, 

iUll^mtdth0^eiiie  bekmFoni. 

Mme, 

>Bay  pf  Concale 

*     %  Av^aper              ^ 

Ar4ee»    * 

) 

Compon,    X 

Bcnrie, 

jBied  Jean,) 

Tregui^r, 
Qtier/ 

Lezaf'die^ 

Rienne,'  St.  Scrvail 

Lanion 

■Railcc/   PortSolidor 

ao,' 

St.  Miehael 

Atj^bon.PMi^oet 

Relacq, 

Morlaix 

IfmxM,  Jd^tigmti 

»4 


Gi 


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ft  MARITIME  GEOGRAPHT. 

J^ffww      Guessan,  at 
lie, 
Goy,        St.  BrieiUL 


Abeirack,    "N 

Abcrbcnoit  A*^^^"  ^^^  ^^^^ 

Aberhaut,   J   of  Bas  and  Brest 


The  rivers  that  empty  themselves  into  the  At- 
lantic are. 


I^apderneaa^  *\  •    > 

Hieres,  ^Br^t  Harbour 

AUZOD^  J 

Odet^  hdow  Qoimper 

Benaudet^  four   leagues  from 
Qaimper 


Jaott^ 

EOe, 

Laita^ 

Seor£F, 

Blavet, 

Detel^ 

Auray, 

Marie, 

Vilaine, 


j 


^  below  Quimpcrl^ 


Port  Louis 


Auray  * 

Mow  Roche  B^- 
pard 


tioirc, 

Falleure, 

Vie, 

Jauncey, 

Lausance, 

Le  Yob, 

Guy, 

Angi^ 

Lay.         ] 

Scvr€,       J 

Charente, 

Seudre, 

Gironde, 

Lcyre, 

Adour, 

NiTeUe, 


below  Naate) 
Porniq 

St.Gillcs 


Talmont 
Angle  .  . 

Fertuis  Breton 

Rocbefoit  ,- . 

Dear  Marennes 

bdow  Bordeanx 

basin  4xf  Arca^on 

Bay^mie 

St.  Jolm  de  Jau 


The  Somme  receives  vessels  of  considerable 
size,  and  boats  go  up  with  the  tide  to  Abbeville. 
The  Seine  has  its  source  at  St  Seine  in  the^depart- 
ment  of  C6te  d'Or,  passes  through  Faris,  and  after 
a  course  of  150  leagues,  empties  itself  into  the 
Bay  of  Calvai^os  at  le  Havre  de  Grace.  It  is 
navigable  for  vessels  of  200  tons  to  Rouen,  to 
Piaris  by  vessels  of  100,  and  to  Mery  by  barges. 

The  Ome  is  ascended  by  vessels  of  eight  or  nine 
feet  to  Caen.  The  Yilftine  is  navigable  fm*  large 
boats  to  Rennes  by  means  of  sluice   and  for 

'•  vessels 


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FRANCE*  9 

vessels  of  SOO  tons  to  Redon.  The  Loire  has  a 
course  of  200  leagues,  but  is  shoal  and  much  en- 
cumbered by  banks.  At  its  mouth  are  two  small 
islands  forming  twot;hannels,  which  require  pilots, 
who  are  usually  taken  at  BeHe  Isle.  Vesseb  of 
burden  unload  at  Bourgneuf  or  Paimbouf  inttf 
(small  craft,  which  convey  thdr  cargoes  to  Nantes  j 
bareges  ascend  from  Nantes  to  Orleans,  where  they 
enter  a  canal  which  communicates  with  the  Seine. 
mhe  Lay  empties  iteelf  into  the  Pertuis-Breton, 
is .  navigable  ft*  vessels  0F  sixty  tons  to  Moricq 
1t#a  leagues,  and  two  leagues  farther  for  boats  of 
iifteeii  tons* 

'^*  T^  Gliarente,  after  a  course  of  eighty  leaguest 
ieiAjrties  itself  eight  miles  below  Rochefort.  It  is 
imv^|^iEJ>le-for  boats  of  eighty  tons,  by  meana  of 
isHiftces^  tO'Angouteme^  Ti^  Girotide  h  formed 
1]^'lhe  junction  bf  the  Garoime  and  Dord^^igm^ 
which  unfite  twenty-two  teaguefi^frod  the  aea  at  the 
point  called  Bee  d'Ambez.  Gl^eDordegne  presents 
apbenomenon  natnfed  the  Miftearet,  and  vulgady 
the  Water  Rat  It  happens  ehiefly  in  wmmer 
when  the  rf^er  is  low,  and  commences-  at  the 
Bee  d'Ambefe  where  the  fivers  unite :  it  is  an  ele- 
vation of  water  that  ascenda  with  great  fi^piditf 
aWl  noise,  and  which  is  felt  eight  leagues  above 
the  Bee  d' Ambez.  The  banks  of  rock  and  sand 
^  the  mouth  ef  the  Gironde  form  five  channels, 
4wo  of  which  are  only  fit  for  ships  of  burden, 
iMivii^  twenty-five  and  twenty-six  feet  at  low  wa- 
tw*  4)&a  rode  level  with  the  water  is  Cordouan 

light- 


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|0  9IARITIME   GEOGRAPHY. 

S^t^howe,  a  tower  erected  fit  the  end  of  tl)e,six» 
teenth  century  by  Henry  IV.  '  Its  total  height 
)s  175  feet,  and  the  circuit  of  the  base  about  40CU 
Jt8  entry  ig  at  E-S-E-  {t  buro*  about  ^Qlb.  of 
{Spats  a  night  in  winter,  Verdan  Roads  ^r^  withio 
^e  shoab.  I{ere  is  an  insigmficaQt  village  and  ano* 
ther  at  Pouillac,  ten  leagues  below  jBtordeaux, 
wh^e  i^ips  usually  anchor  to  ysfs^t  for  wind  pr  tid« 
to  go  up  to  the  cityt 

The  Adour  has  its  source  in  the  Fyrenne^  an»l 
after  a  course  pf  ^fty  leagues,  e^tptiea  itself  by  |t 
flannel  called  the  New  i^Qc^ut,  the  old  mouytlft 
being  six  leagues  faither  north,  and  rendered  imt 
practicable  by  the  sand^  brought  4owir  hj  the 
i(h)$heei.  The  new  channel  is  also  croaie^  hy  ^ 
Inu^  09  which  is  btttttiree  fffetat)ow  vf^tf  fi^e^ 
M  common  ti^^  mf\  eighte)^  »t;hjgh  wfrt^ 
n»m^  Within  the^:  bar  is  tJye  fatj^ins  \if  tfi 
B&(yv>nne,  jtudbar^^  go  jap  tp  S^  Sefvi^ 
;;jFraqce  has,  JX^tto  |)aglf|ipd,, carried  th^  sys^ 
^m  0f  <Mwls  to  Sk^efit^t]  pefiection  than  any 
iAb^t  miitin  c^lSwcoif^  Besides  luifnerpus.  caniedA 
iiljthe  int^pr  ¥4^ch  j&cilitate  jpo^i^^^rcei  those 
mhi^  £orm  cotpmtipication  between. .  the  yariotis 
iHrSlitchesc^tbeOfi^P^MPe,  Isti  7t^^<»^  <3f  Bciare 
w  Burgimdy,  vfiAf^  uniting  theSeipfi  and  L<Hi:e^ 
bpeii  bn  iidaod  i[»yigf^jx  from  tl^,£;ng^sh  Chaivt 
jnel  to  tf>e  Bay,  ipf  Bitfoay.  It  has  fprtyrtwo  lopkiu 
'Pie  cain^  of  Langnedo?,  or  ca^al  of  the  soi^ 
«mtes  the  Bay  of  Biscay  atnd  M^diterraoesua.;  ...1^ 
cqmteirtic^  9^»r  Agtie,  w^%t  ffe^ieifs  ^laW  tm^ 

n^ 


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Mlaidied  ^rith  stone  7^  feet  At  St  Ferid  is  a 
reservdr  of  595  acres ;  this  c^nat  joins  the  Garonne 
#t  Toulouse ;  its  breadth*  induding^  the  towing 
poths>  is  144  feet,  depth  sin  feet»  a<id  leqgth  mxty^ 
^wr  leagues. 


Dunkirk  (church  of  the  Downs.y  is  a  considerable  F^'SSi, 
town  of  26,000  inhabitants,  who  derive  their  chief  ^7"— 
support  from  fishing  and  smuggling  in  peace^  ''"""^ 
and  from  privateering  in  war.  The  principal  con- 
traband trade  is  in  gin  and  tea  to  England;  it 
also  exports,  legally^  a  quantity  of  salt  and  wine  to 
the  north.  It  is  a  maritime  prefecture,  Its  port 
is  formed  by  two  wooden  jetties,  and  is  defended 
by  a  redoubt  on  each  side.  It  has  no  fresh  water 
but  that  collected  in  cisterns  from  rains.  In  1658 
Dunkirk  was  t^ken  by  the  Dutch  from  the  Spa- 
niards, and  ceded  to  England,  but  two  jears 
after  Charles  JI,  sold  it  to  France  for  ^250,000, 
when  it  was  deiclared  a  free  port,  and  continue4 
80  till  179s,  By  the  treaty  of  Utrecht  (1713)  it 
was  stipulated  that  the  fortifications  should  be  de-? 
8troyed|  and  the  port  rendered  uselesa;  but  though 
this  destruction  was  effected,  Louis  XIV.  im- 
mediately cut  a  canal  from  Mardike,  which  gave 
the  port  almost  all  its  former  advantages.  Eng^ 
land,  however^  oWiffed  Irnn  to  shut  up  this  canal, 

an4 

f  Jfom  a  charcb  said  to  ^art  been  bailt  here  by  St.  Z}f^\ 


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19  MARITIME   GEOGRAPHY, 

SricTiC:.  *^  ^  promise  that  no  works  of  this  nature  should 

*"* —      be  executed  within    two    leagues  of    Dunkirk* 

A.N<Hrd.      But  in  1720  the  sea  having  broke  through  the. 

.    bar  formed  across  the  haven's  month,  it  again 

became  accessible  to  ships,  and  England  being  at 

war  with  Spain,  France  took  advantage  of  it  to 

reconstruct  the  jetties  and  fortify  it ;  and  though 

by  the  treaties  of  Aix  la  Chapelle  and  P^ris,  the 

destruction  of  these  works  was  stipulated,  France 

«  contrived  always  to  elude  the  execution,  and  the 

Dunkirkers  have  ever  since  carried  on  their  old 

trades  of  smuggling  in  peace  and  privateering 

in  war. 

Mardike  is  a  fishing  village  between  Dunkirk 
and  Gravelines  ;  the  latter  is  a  fortified  town  of 
3,000  mhabitants,  ceded  to  France  by  the  treaty 
of  the  Pyrennces  (I66O).  It  is  at  ihe  niouth  of  the 
Aa,  among  marshes,  and  has  pnly  a  dry  tid6'hsiven 
for  small  craft,  \  '" 

SSScAbu.  Calais,  situated  on  an  opening,  of  tlie'clifls, 
contains* 6,500  inhabitants,  a  great  number  of  Whom 
are  employed  in  the  herring  and  mackarel  fisheries. 
It  exports  some  corn,  brandy,  hogs,  and  poultry  to 
England.  Its  haven  is  formed  by  the  mouth  of 
the  little  river  Hames,  enclo'sed  by  two  jetties  of 
wood,  on  one  of  which  is  a  light-house  :  it  almost 
dries  at  low  water,  but  lias  nineteen  feet  ^t  high. 
Several  strong  forts  command  the  entrance,  and 
tlie  t6\vn  is  surrounded  by  a  ditch  'and  rampart, 
and  protected  by  a  citadel :  the  country  round 
may  also  be  laid  under  water.      Packets  sail  every 

second 


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FRANCE.  IS 

second  day  between  Calais  and  Dover  with  the  raaiL  ^]!^ 
Escalle  is  a  small  fishing  village  two  leagues  W,  gWI^* 
of  Calais,  and  Ambleteiise,  a  little  town  at  the 
mouth  of  a  river  that  falls  into  St.  John's  Cove, 
which  affords  good  anchorage  in  fifteen  to  five 
fathoms,  sheltered,  from  N.E.  to  S.E.  Here  Caesar 
embarked  his  cavalry  for  the  invasion  of  England. 

Boulogne,  at  the  mouth  of  the  little  river 
Liane,  has  10,500  inhabitants,  chiefly  employed  in 
the  home  fishery.  It  has  only  a  dry  tide  liaven, 
but  large  ships  anchor  in  the  roads  well  sheltered 
from  easterly  winds.  North  of  tlie  river's  mouth 
is  a  lifgh  tower,  and  to  the  south  some  ruins, 
supposed  to  be  the  antient  Gessoriacmn  and 
Portus  IcciuSy  from  whence  Caesar  embarked  for 
England.  Dannes,  Caneres,  and  Etaples  (1,300 
inhabitants),  are  insignificant  fishing  villages ;  the 
latter  is  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Canche  a  league 
from  its  mouth.  Berk-sur-mer  is  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Authie  and  Rochelle  on  the  left ;  this 
river  is  navigable  for  boats  to  Montreuil. 

Le  Crotoy,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Somme,  Dip.s..«me. 
has  3,000  inhabitants,  and  St.  Valery,  on  the  left 
bank,  about  the  same  number ;   they  have  some 
trade,  particularly  in  coals  and  lead.     Cayeux; 
Ault  (1,000  inhabitants). 

Mers  and  Chaussee  d'Eu  are  fishing  villages.  ^*'^^«'- 
Le  Treport,   at  the  mouth  of  the  Bresle,  (2,000  ^nk.^"^ 
^habitants),  has  a  tide  haven  for  coasters  and  a 
good  road.    Eu,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  same 
river,  (3,000).     Small  vessels  only  can  enter  the 

river 


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Jrlftt  TvlPflf* 


1*  MARITIME  6£66RAPHt. 

river  with  the  tide*  Criel,  on  the  Yers,  (1,000 
pki^T^m  inhabitants),  Tocqueville  and  Penly  are  small 
villages. 

Dieppe,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Bethune,  where  it 
receives  the  Arques^  has  twenty  to  25,000  in-« 
habitants,  an  important  foreign  trade,  and  con^ 
fiiderable  share  in  the  home  and  foreign  fisheries* 
Its  haven  dries  at  low  water,  but  has  three  fathoms 
and  a  half  at  hi^,  and  opposite  the  town  ves^ 
Itels  of  sixteen  feet  draft  can  lay  afloat  j  to  the 
west  is  a  road  for  large  ships.  The  haven  i^ 
enclosed  between  two  handsome  brick  moles } 
and  it  has  an  old  castle.  In  peace  a  packet-boat 
tails  from  hence  to  Brighton,  the  distance  being 
^xty-six  miles;  and  the  English  coast  is  seen 
from  a  tower  of  Dieppe  in  clear  weather* 

Pourvifle,  St.  Aubin,  Veulles;  St  Valery  eil 
Caux,  5,000  inhabitants,  has  a  little  tide  haven 
for  coasters :  here  William  I.  embarked  for  Eng- 
land. St.  Leger,  Port  Sanciette,  Dallas,  and 
Eletot,  are  fishing  places  between  Dieppe  and 
Fecamp,  which  latter  is  a  town  of  7,000  in* 
habitants,  With  a  port  in  which  is  twelve  feet 
at  low  water.  Talletot,  Yport,  St.  Jouiri,  Hague- 
ville,  and  la  Bruyere,  are  small  villages  be* 
tween  Fecamp  and  the  mouth  of  the  Seine. 

Le  Havre  de  Grace,*  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Seine,  one  league  from  Cape  la  Heve,  is  built 
on  an  acclivity  between  two  hills ;  it  is  surrounded 

•  Hail  its  name  from  an  antient  chaptl  adjoining. 


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by  hSf^  walls  with  ditches  aiid  a  r^ular  citadel,  ^pa^^ 
lias  20,000  inhabitBiits,  and  is  a  maritime  pre*  — 
fecture.  Its  harbour  dries  at  low  water,  has 
twelve  feet  in  common  tides  and  twenty-five  in 
high  ^rings.  It  has  also  the  singular  advantage 
tiiat  the  tide  does  not  begin  to  fall  until  three 
hours  after  high  water,  the  cause  of  which  seems 
to  be,  that  the  current  of  the  Seine  crossing  the  * 
harbour's  mouth  with  great  force  at  the  beginning 
of  tibe  ebb,  confines  the  water  in  the  harbour. 
Hie  favourable  skuation  of  Havre,  communicating 
i¥ith  Plans  by  the  Seine,  rendered  it  extremely 
commercial  before  the  war,  when  it  had  a  con- 
siderable West-lDdia  trade,  and  a  number  of  ves- 
tels  in  the  Greenland  and  Newfoundland  fisheries^ 
Harfleur  is  two  leagues  above  Havre,  on  the  little 
river  Lezarda,  which  formerly  admitted  vessels, 
but  being  now  fiUed  up,  a  canal  has  been  cut  be- 
tween it  and  Havre,  and  the  antient  port  of  Har- 
fleur is  now  converted  into  gardens^ 

HoNFLEUR,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Seine,  has  ^• 
ft,000  inhabitants  and  a  considerable  trade,  ex- 
porting chiefly  ship  timber  and  com.  Touques, 
two  n^les  and  half  up  the  river  of  the  same 
mune,  to  which  large  boats  go  up  with  the  tide« 
Villers  Boccage^  700  inhabitants.  Dives,  400 
inhabitants,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  of 
the  same  name,  a»d  Cabourg  on  the  leA  bank* 
Salinelle,  ^on  the  right  bank  of  the  Ome,  Qys- 
terham,  Bemier,  Ghrey,  Ccmie,  Langrane,  Ryes, 
Pott^en-Bassein,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Drome,, 
aind  St«  Hooorine  are  all  villages,  of  from  300 

to 


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1.6  MAEITIME  G£OGRAP£tr. 

^^mT^  to  800  inhabitants;  besides  having  a  ntlinbcb' 
D/p.cItv»kM.  of  boats  employed  in  the  coast  fisheries,  they 
export  along  shore,  cyder^  apples,  fire-wood,  &c* 
Isigni,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Esques  with  the 
Vire,  eight  miles  from  the  sea,  has  2,000  inha« 
bitants  ;  vessels  of  eight  or  nine  feet,  draft  go  up 
to  it  with  the  tide,  and  export  the  salt  made  in  its 
neighbourhood,  bees*-wax,  cyder,  butter,  &c.  ^It 
has  also  a  good  salmon  fishery  on  the  Vire. 
j>^  \A  Carentan,  on  the  Taute,  two  leairues  from  its 
nioutli,  has  3,000  inhabitants,  and  exports  cattle 
and  butter.  Vaye,  St.  Martin,  [Racine]*  St.  Mary 
le  Monde,  are  inconsiderable  villages.  La  Hogue 
has  a  dry  tide  haven,  with  thirteen  feet  high 
water  springs.  Off  it  was  fought  the  great  navsd 
action  in  1692,  between  the  English  and  Dutch 
combined  fleets,  under  Admiral  Russel,  and  the 
French  fleet  commanded  by  Tourville,  in  which 
the  latter  was  totally  defeated.  St.  Vaas,  Reville, 
Belville,  Le  Bequet,  are  villages  of  little  con* 
sidcration. 

Cherbourg,  two  leagues  W.  of  Cape  Levi,  on 
which  is  a  light,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  little 
river  Divette,  10,000  inhabitants ;  has  naturally 
only  a  tide  haven,  enclosed  by  moles,  and  which 
nearly  dries  at  low  water,  but  has  thirteen  feet  at 
high.  The  road  is,  however,  capable  of  holding 
500  ships,  and  enormous  sums  of  money  have  been 
expended  in  the  attempt  to  construct  a  mole,  by 
sinking  cones  to  render  it  a  secure  station  for  line 
of  battle  ships.  This  mole  or  dike  crosses  the 
entrance  of  the  road,  leaving  a  passage  at  each 

end 


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tnd  jUOOO  feet  wide,  on  which  are  block-housea  ^'*'^* 


and  forts*  The  sea  has,  however,  frequently  da^  i>ff»;;^f«c 
inaged  this  work,  aqd  besides  it  only  shelters  two 
to  three  ships  of  the  line.  In  prder  to  form  a  port 
here  for  a  fleet,  in  spite  of  nature,  Buonaparte  had 
a  basin  cut  out  in  the  solid  rock  to  contain  ten 
ffhips  of  the  line  always  afloat,  the  bottom,  of  it 
being  sunk  thirty  feet  below  the  level  of  the  sea  at 
low  water.  This  work  was  finished  in  1813,  and 
opened  iu  the  presence  of  the  Empress  with  $,n 
imposii^  ceremony. 

Bameville,  on  a  cove  west  of  Cherbourg,  and 
Lessay,  on  the  Ay,  opposite  Jensey,  are  small  places. 
Cout^ce,  on  a  hill  on  the  bank  of  a  small  river, 
two  leagues  fVom  the  sea,  is  an  antient  town  of  900 
^habitants,  with  a  magnificent  cathedral. 

Granville,  a  walled  town  of  12,000  inhabi- 
tants, is  situated  on  an  eminence  near  the  little 
river  !3oscq,  has  a  tide  haven  capable  of  receiving 
vessels  of  400  tons  withi?  two  moles.  It  had  for- 
iperly  eighty  vessels  and  4,000  men  employed  in 
the  Newfoundland  fishery,  and  ha^  a  great  oyster 
fishery.  Avranches,  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain, 
past  which  runs  the  Seez,  one  mile  and  a  half  from 
the  sea,  is  celebrated  for  its  cyder.  Pontorson  on 
the  Coue9noiti,  has  1,000  inhabitants,  receives  only 
b«ats» 

DqX'  on  the  Cardequin,  two  leagues  from  its  A^i^y^ 
mouthy   h^s   t,700  inhabitant^;   exports  cyder,  mnTySli 
fi$x^  and  wheats 

Cavcaiiu  3,000  inhabitants,  on  the  wast  side 

VOL.U.  Q  ^ 


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18  MARITIMfi   GEOGRAPHY. 

jjm  iww.   of  Cahcale  Bay,  is  celebrated  for  its  oysters.     Iw 
tneeTvaaiiie  havcn  Only  receives  fishing  boats. 

St^t.  Malo  contains  10,000  inhabitants,  and  is 
built  on  a  rocky  island,  antiently  called  Aaron, 
how  joined  to  the   main  by  a  causeway.      The 
harbour  is  spacious  but  of  difficult  access  from 
tocks.     It  nearly  dries  at  low  water,  but  the  tide 
rises  forty-eight  feet.     The  town  and  port  are 
defended  by  ten  forts  or  batteriep,  mounting  250 
guns,  on  isolated  rocks.     Its  trade  is  considerable, 
exporting  corn,  sail-cloth,  &c.  and  it  had  vessels 
employed  in  the  Newfoundland  cod  fishery  ;  in 
,war,  it  is  a  nest  of  privateers.     St.  Servan,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Rienne,  1,000  inhabitants. 
cftSrST'  '     ^^^  Solidor,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ranee,  which 
*•""•         forms  a  good  port  and  is  navigable  for  boats  to 
Dinan. 

Hancoet  on  the  Argueron,  635  inhabitants; 
St.  Cast,  Matignon,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tremur, 
inFernayBay,  Plancoef,  1,200  inhabitants. 
;  St.  Brieux,  on  the  little  river  Goy,  which  forms 
a  small  haven,  has  8,000  inhabitants  and  some 
.coasting  trade.  Rosclier,  St  Quay,  La  Madelaine^ 
L6mas.  Paimpol,  1,700  inhabitants,  has  consi- 
derable coasting  trade  and  sends  ships  to  the  New- 
foundland fishery.  Lezardieux  on  the  river 
Trieux,  Treguier  on  the  river  of  the  same  name, 
near  two  leagues  from  its  mouth,  2,600  inhabi- 
tants. Tregartel,  Lanion  on  the  Guer,  two  miles 
from  its  mouth,  3,000  inhabitants.  St.  John  de 
Buy,  a  small  tide  haven.  St  Michael,  a  village, 
'  \on  the  beiach. 

MORLAIX, 


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MorLaix,  at  the  confluence  of  the  little  rivers  5j»7Vi«u. 
Xin  and  Relacq,  two  leagues  from  the  sea,  has  Bcp^^t 
^,000  inhabitants :  its  port  is  defended  by  the 
castle  of  Taureau  on  an  island.  Vessels  ascend 
to  it  with  the  tide :  it  has  a  considerable  trade^ 
exporting  cattle,  horses,  hemp,  flax,  peas,  beans, 
butter,  tallow,  honey,  wax,  slates  and  stones, 
lead  ore,  &c. 

St  Pol  de  Leon,  5,000  inhabitants,  has  a  tide 
haven  ^  Roscoff  and  Ploughgoukn,  within  the 
isle  de  Bas,  are  also  Ashing  and  smuggling  tide 
havens,  with  many  rocks  before  them.  Ploues- 
^Btf  2,000  inhabitants.  Ploughnejon.  Abrevak, 
-on  a  river  of  the  same  name,  which  empties  itself 
into  a  large  and  well  sheltered  bay,  but  filled  with 
.rocks.  Aberilduc,  le  Conquet,  a  handsome  little 
*tawn,  and  port  Legan,  are  within  Ushant. 

Brest  (Brivates  partus^  the  chief  imperial  port 
of  France,  has  27,000  inhabitants.  It  has  two 
xoads,  the  outer  called  Bertheaume  Road,  and 
the  inner,  Brest  Water,  the  communication  be- 
tween them  being  by  a  narrow  channel,  called  Le 
Ooulet  (the  Gullet),  which  is  defended  by  a 
castle  on  a  steep  rock  on  the  south  side,  and  by  a 
4semi-circular.  battery  on  the  other.  Brest  Water 
is  capable  of  holding  500  sail  of  large  ships.  It 
has  a  superb  marine  arsenal,  and  docks.  The 
xrommerce  of  Brest  is  inconsiderable,  being  con- 
fined to  the  importation,  by  coasters,  ,of  the  objects 
necessary  for  the  consumption  of  the  fleet  and  in- 
•habitants,  and  to  the  export  of  sprats  taken  near  it. 
i   ...  c  8  Camaret 


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«0 


MARITIME  t^EOGRAPHT. 


JB)  iiuny. 
Depart  lacat 


I>^ptirtment 
]iorbiban.> 


C^mtiret  Road  is  an  anchorage  on  the  south  side  of 
JSartheaume  Road. 

Cfozon  on  the  north  side  of  Douamenez  Bay, 
md  Douamenez. on  the  south,  have  each  3,000 
inhabitants.  Audierne,  on  l^e  bay  of  die  same 
nnme,  has  a  good  haven  for  coasters.  Font  T  Abb4 
a  fishing  town.  Quimper,  op  Quimper  Corentin, 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Benaudet  with  the  Oder, 
has  8|000  inhabitants.  Concameau  on  a  good  bay, 
has  2,000  inhabitants,  Pontaven  on  a  cove,  a 
iishing  town.  Quimperl6,  at  the  confluence  of 
the  EUe  with  the  Isotte,  three  leagues  from  the 
sea,  has  5,600  inhabitants.  It  was  antiently  the 
residence  of  the  Dukes  of  Britany.  It  exports 
wood,  com,  and  cattle. 

Port  St.  Louis  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Blavet 
on  St.  Louis  bay,  has  a  good  port  but  of  difficult 
access,  its  inhabitants  2,600,  are  principally  em- 
ployed in  the  coast  fishery.  Port  Lorient,  at  th« 
mouth  of  the  Scorff,  which  also  &lls  into  St# 
Louis  Bay,  two  leagues  N.W.  of  port  St.  Louist 
is  a  well  fortified  town  with  20,000  inhabitants. 
Its  port,  which  receives  seventy-four  gun  ships,  is 
the  usual  station  of  a  small  squadron,  dnd  it  is  the 
t;hief  place  of  a  maritime  prefecture.  It  was  for*- 
merly  the  dq)ot  of  the  French  East-India  Com.* 
pany.     Its  principal  exports  are  salt  and  wine. 

Auray,  a  town  of  3,000  inhabitants  on  the  river 
of  the  same  name,  which  &ll8  into  Morbihan  Oul£ 
Vannes  (  Veneti),  the  chief  place  of  the  department^ 
has  10^000  inhabitants,  and  is  about  two  leagues 

firom 


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-    FRAKCE.  il 

from  the  sea,  with  which  it  communicates  by  tiip  ^ijj^ 
canal  of  Morbihan.  It  exports  com,  iron,  coals,  jfp^^g^* 
telt,  cyder,  hemp,  salt-fish,  honey,  and  butter. 
Sarzeau,  on  the  peninsula  of  Rhuys,  has  4^,000  in-^ 
habitants.  La  Roche  Bernard  on  the  Villame, 
four  leagues  from  its  mouth,  has  6,000  inhabi- 
tants and  some  coasting  trade. 

Ascending  the  Loire  along  the  right  bank,  we 
meet  with  St  Nazaire  and  several  other  villages  in 
succession,  and  arrive  at  Nantes  (^Namnetes^  ten 
leagues  from  the  sea,  at  the  confluence  of  tlie 
Erdre  and  Sevre  with  the  Loire.  It  is  reckoned 
in  the  second  class  of  cities,  having  75,000  inhabi* 
tants.  Its  foreign  and  colonial  trade  were  Vtty 
considerable  in  peace.  Large  ships  cannot  ascend 
the  river  higher  than  Paimboeuf,  on  the  left  bank 
eight  le^^es  below  Natites,  where  they  discbarge 
their  cargoes  into  lighters  to  be  conveyed  to  the 
city.  Frigates  are  built  at  Paimboeuf,  it  has  also  ^ 
considerable  coasting  trade  and  exports  a  quantity 
of  salt :  its  population  is  7>000. 

Kriac,  le  Croisic,  2,000  ihhabitants,  a  dry  tide  gJKITS! 
haven  for  small  craft  only.  It  exports  a  consi- 
derable quantity  of  salt  the  produce  of  the  salt 
marshes  m  the  vicinity.  Poulquain  a  small  dry 
tide  haven,  with  ten  feet  high  water,  one  league 
east  of  Croisic  ;  Gilerande,  a  league  from  the  sea, 
has  7,000  inhabitants  and  also  exports  salt. 

Beyond  the  entrance  of  the  Loire  and  in  the 
bay  of  Bourgneuf,  or  Nofirmoutier,  are  Pornic 
and  Bourgned^,  SOO  inhabitants. 

c  3  >   Beauvoir 


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22  MARITIME  GEOGRAPHY. 

Beauvoir  on  the  south  shore  of  Bourgneuf  Bay^ 
Bj^«t   has  2,000  inhabitants, 

St.  Gilles  on  the  Vie,  a  small  tide  haven,  formed 
by  moles  for  vesssels  of  eighty  tons,  exports  corn 
and  salt,  800  inhabitants.  Sables  d'OUone,  5,000 
inhabitants,  is  built  on  a  spot  insulated  at  high 
water :  it  has  a  tide  harbour,  formied  by  moles 
for  vessels  of  150  tons.  The  Barges  d*011one  is' 
a  reef  running  two  miles  off  shore.  Talmpnt  on 
the  Guy,  which  empties  itself  within  Isle  Rh6. 
Aunif,  be  Marans,  or  Aligre,  on  the  Sevre  Niortaise,  one 
league  from  the  sea,  amongst  salt  marshes,  whose 
produce  as  well  as  fine  wheat  it  exports,  4,600  in- 
habitants. 

La  Rochelle,  a  handsome  and  celebrated  town 
of  18,000  inhabitants.     Its  commerce  is  consider^ 
able,  exporting  wine',   salt,  hemp,  and  flax-seed.  . 
It  has  an  excellent  road  and  a  haven,  formed  by  a 
dike  and  basin  for  merchant  vessels. 

RocHEFORT  on  the  Charente,  five  leagues  from 
its  mouth  among  unhealthy  marshes,  15,000  in- 
habitants. It  is  one  of  the  imperial  ports  and  has 
a  large  naval  arsenal.  Line  of  battle  ships  are 
obliged  to  take  out  their  lower  deck  guns  to  enter 
the  river.  The  streets  are  wide  and  strait,  the 
houses  low  and  uniform.  The  ramparts  are  hand- 
some. There  is  here  a  depot  of  galley  slaves,  who 
are  employed  in  the  dock  yard.  Brouage,  a  hand- 
some fortified  town,  amongst  the  most  productive 
gait  marshes  of  France. 

Marennes,   4,500  inhabitants,   within  the   isle 

of 


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FRANCE.  23 

of  Oleron,  is  celebrated  for  its  greep  oysters  and  ijy"*" 
for  its  salt.  '  ^  D^ii^t 

Entering  the  Gironde  and  prolonging  the  left  r^T""** 
bank,  the  first  place  of  consideration  is  Royan,  a 
ciecayed  town,  celebrated  for  the  siege  the  Protes- 
tants suffered  in  it  from  Louis  XIII.  It  has  a 
considerable  sprat  fishery.  Blaye,  a  fortified  town 
in  the  department  of  Gironde  with  3,500  inhabi- 
tants, commands  the  passage  of  the  river  to 
Bordeaux* 

Bordeaux  (JBiirdigala),  on  the  left  bank  of  the    oia«M«. 
Garonne,  three  leagues  above  its  junction  with  ^•®*"»^ 
the  Dordogne,  and  thirteen  leagues  from  the  sea, 
is  a  city  of  the  first  class,  having  110,000  inhabi- 
tants and  the  title  of  Bonne  ViUe.     The  river 
here  forms  a  semicircular  basin,  700  fathoms  broad," 
and  is  lined  by  a  superb  quay,  with  magnificent   . 
buildings.      The  theatre  is  the   handsonlest  in 
Europe.     In  peace,  Bordeaux  is  the  most  com- 
mercial  port  of  France,  being  deeply  engageci  in 
thei  colonial  and  foreign  trade :  its  exports  are 
wine  100,000  tons,   brandy,  flour,  honey,  salted 
provisions,  salt  and  dried  cod,   pitch,  masts,  and 
colonial  produce.      By  the   canal  of  the  South 
Bourdeaux  has  an  inland  navigation  to  the  Medi- 
terranean. The  fountain  of  Aubege, celeb  rated  by 
Ausonius,   who  was  bom  here,  is  still  seen.     It 
has  also  some  Roman  antiquities. 

La  Teste  de  Buch,  on  the  south  shore  of  the 
basin  of  Arca9on,  is  a  trading  town  of  2,000 
inhabitants :  it  exports  the  pitch,  tar,  arid  rosin 
of  the  neighbouring  pine  forests, 

c  4-  In 


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OaMMf. 
Department 


*4  MARITIME  OEOORAPHT. 

cSL^lT^       1^1  th^  department  of  Landes  tihere  is  no  port 

Dep^wt   fit  for  any  tiling  above  a  fishing  boat.      Mimazail 

is  a  village  on  the  Courant,  which  is  threatened 

with  destruction  by  the  approach  of  a  sand  hill, 

sixty  feet  high. 

Bayonne  on  the  Adour,  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Nive,  three  miles  from  the  sea,  is  divided  into  three 
parts  by  these  rivers ;  each  pait  is  defended  by  a 
sriiall  castle  on  an  eminence,  and  the  whole  is 
commanded  by,  a  strong  citadel.     Tlie  population 
is  13,000.    Though  a  bar  which  crosses  the  en- 
trance of  the  Adour  renders  the  access  difficult, 
the  commerce  of  Bayonne  is  very  considerable. 
It  sends  into  Spain,  botli  coastways  and  by  land, 
the  woollens  ofLanguedoc,  silks  of  Lyons  and 
Tours,  cotton  of  llouen  and  St.  Malo.    To  the 
north  it  exports  the  wines  of  France  and  Spain, 
chocolate  and  other  colonial  produce,  which  it  also 
procures  from  Spain,  liquorice,  &c.     It  formerly 
sent  vessels  to  Uie  Newfoundland  fishery. 

Biaritz  and  Bidart  are  villages  south  of  Bayonne, 
St.  Jean  de  Luz,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Nivelle 
and  amongst  marshes,  has  3,000  inhabitants  and 
a  dry  tide  haven,  witli  twelve  feet  high  water ;  on 
the  opposite  bank  is  Sibourre  communicating  with 
St.  John  de  Luz  by  a  bridge,  Socco,  one  league 
south  of  the  latter,  has  a  dry  tide  haven  with  nine 
feet  high  water  neaps,  and  eleven  to  twelve  feet 
springs.     Andaye,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Bidas- 
soa,  is  the  last  town  of  France. 
li^        The  islands  on  the  coasts  of  France^  though 
numerous,  are  in  general  but  useless  rocks,  and 

none 


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9RAt^C£«  its 

Aone  iffe  of  more  than  vefy  minor  consideration ; 
we  shall  therefore  confine  ourselves  to  the  notice 
of  the  most  considerable,  or  of  those  whose  situa- 
tion renders  them  of  some  moment. 

llie  isles  of  St.  Marcou,  oh  the  west  side  of  the 
bay  <rf  Calvados,  are  two  small  round  isles  of  mid- 
dling height  half  a  mile  distant  from  each  other, 
named  separately,  Amont  and  Aval.  They  ar6 
said  to  derive  their  tiame  from  Marcoulf,  a  Norman 
Slant,  abbot  of  St  Nanteuil,  who  died  in  518, 
The  largest  has  not  more  than  an  acre  of.  land, 
but  affords  pasture  for  some  cattle  from  La  Hogue, 
In  1795,  these  islands  were  taken  possession  of 
by  the  English,  as  useful  in  facilitating  the  secret 
correspondence  with  the  coast  of  France.  Block- 
houses were  constructed  on  them  and  garrisoned 
by  150  seamen  and  marines.  In  1798,  the  French 
attacked  them  with  fifty-three  gun-vessels  and 
several  thousand  troops  from  La  Hqgue,  but  were 
beat  back  with  the  loss  erf*  1,200  men,  while  the 
English  had  but  one  killed  and  two  wounded. 

Pel6e  island,  opposite  Cherbourg  and  distant 
from  it  three  miles,  is  400  fathoms  long  and  nearly 
overflowed  at  high  water  :  on  it  is  a  fort  to  defend 
the  entran<5e  of  Cherbourg  harbour.  The  Grelet$ 
or  Mankiers,  are  a  cluster  of  high  rocks  close  to 
each  other,  forming  a  group  of  seven  to  eight 
mOes  in  ch^cuit,  nearly  midway  between  the  isle 
tf  Jersey  and  St.  Malo. 

Chansey  isles,  in  the  Gulf  of  St.  Malo,  betweeft 
Jersey  and  the  coast  of  France,  occupy  a  spac6 
of  three  leagues  in  length.  Between  them  and  the 

main 


hituc 


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S6t,  MARITIME  GEOpJBLAPHY. 

Viaui  Is  a  ledge  of  sunken  rocks,  called  1^6% 
Etrangers.  St.  Michael,  in  Concale  Bay,  is  sur- 
rounded by  quick  sands,  overflowed  at  every  high 
water. 

Cesembre  Isle,  a  league  and  a  half  N.  W.  of  St. 
Malo,  had  formerly  a  convent.  Conchee  isle,  west 
of  Cape  Frehel,  has  a  battery  to  defend  the  coast* 
The  three  islands  St.  Quay,  St.  Rioo,  and  Brehat, 
off  the  west  point  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Malo,  are 
surrounded  by  a  great  number  of  rocky  islets  and 
reefs.  Brehat  is  three  leagues  long,  N.N.E.  and 
i^.S.  W. :  it  is  inhabited  and  has  a  boat  haven,  called 
the  Chanter,  on  the  S.W.  The  black  rocks  are 
N.W.  of  Brehat.. 

The  isles  De  Her  and  Tome  are  before  the 
entrance  of  Treguier  river.  The  Seven  Islands, 
north  of  the  same  river,  are  inhabited  by  some 
fishermen. 

Isle  De  Bas,  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Roscoff,  is 
a  league  and  a  half  long,  and  has  5,000  inhabit 
tants  chiefly  fishermen. 

.  Ushantf  four  leagues  from  the  extreme  west 
point  of  France,  is  four  or  five  mUes  long  and 
three  to  four  broad.  It  is  steep  and  craggy,  and 
its  coats  are  so  indented  as  to  give  it  in  tlie  charts 
the  appearance  of  a  star.  It  has  1,600  inhabitants 
all  fishermen  living  in  hamlets.  St.  Michael's  Bay 
on  the  north  has  good  anchorage,  and  on  the  south 
point  of  the  island  is  a  light-house.  Between 
XJshant  and  the  main  are  a  great  nuipber  of  islets 
and  rocks  above  and  under  water. 

The  Saintes,  or  Sein,  off  Point  Raz,  the  north, 

point 


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point .  of  Audierne  Bay,  are  a  cluster  of  barren 
rocks  inhabited  by  a  few  fishermen.  The  channel 
between  them  and  the  main  is  called  the  passage 
Du  Raz.  The  isles  of  Glenan,  two  leagues  S.S JB« 
of  the  entrance  of  the  river  Oder,  or  of  Juniperfi 
are  four  in  number,  \dz.  Isle  aux  Moutons^  St. 
Nicholas,  Penfret,  and  Loch*  They  are  unin-. 
habited. 

Riantin  and  Groaix  islands  are  before  St.  Loui$ 
bay :  the  latter  is  two  leagues  long,  and  on  its 
south  is  the  vill^e  of  Tudy.  ^ 

Le  Conquet,  or  Quiberon  island,  is  close  to  tfaei 
extremity  of  the  peninsula  of  Quiberon. 

Belle  Isle  (CaUmesusJ^  south  of  Quiberon,  is 
the  most  considerable  island  on  the  coast,  being 
six  leagues  and  a  half  long  and  two  broad.  It 
is  very  high  and  steep,  and  its  natural  strength 
has  been  greatly  augmented  by  fortifications  on 
the  only  three  accessible  parts.  It  is  fertile,  pro- 
ducing com  in  abundance,  and,  the  climate  is  so 
temperate  that  the  cattle  are  left  in  the  pastures 
all  the  year.  *  The  inhabitants  are  about  5,500, 
of  whom  2,500  are  collected  at  Palais  on  tlie  N.E. 
side  of  the  island,  which  has  a  haven  formed  by  a 
pier  of  cut  stone,  200  feet  long  and  thirty  broads 
The  walls  of  the  citadel,  which  is  built  on  a  rock, 
also  bound  the  haven,  which  is  entirely  dry  at  low 
water,  and  has  only  five  feet  at  high,  but  the  road 
is  safe  with  the  winds  frpm  north  or  N.E.  Port 
Sauzon,  on  the  N.W.  side  of  the  island,  receives 
vessels  of  forty  to  fifty  tons,  which  lay  dry  at  low 
wafer.    Port  Lomarie  and  Port  St.  Andrew  also 

receive 


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ft  irARITlME  6to6RAPHT. 

receive  small  cratfl,  and  each  has  a  Mttle  vill^. 
The  island  exports  the  surplus  of  its  wheat  smd 
oats,  a.considerable  quantity  of  salt  from  the  salt^ 
works  near  Palai6>  and  salted  sprats  tiie  produce 
of  its  fishery, 

Th*  isles  of  HsBdic  and  Houat^  between  Bdlle 
Isle  and  the  main,  are  of  little  consequence :  the 
former  is  two  miles  in  circumference  and  has  lOO 
inhabitants,  all  fishermen  residing  in  a  Tillage; 
&e  second  produces  a  little  com  and  has  pas- 
ture  for  200  head  of  cattle.  Neither  island  has 
any  haven,  and  the  fishing  boats  are  hauled  upon 
the  beaches.  Mats  and  Dimiet,  two  little  isleii 
opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Yillaine  river. 

The  island  of  Bouin  in  the  Bay  of  Bourgneirf 
6r  Noirmoutier,  was  a  few  years  since  separated 
from  the  main^  by  a  channel  practicable  by  vessels 
of  800  to  SOO  tons,  but  which  by  the  accumula- 
tion of  sand  is  now  reduced  to  a  boat  passage. 
The  island  has  three  leagues  of  surface  almost 
entirely  consisting  of  salt  marshes. 

NoiRMouTiER  {Herio)  has  three  leaguea  surface 
and  5,400  inhabitants.  It  is  extremely  fertile, 
from  the  abundance  of  manure  afforded  by  the  sea 
weeds  thrown  upon  the  shore*  On  the  N.W.,  W., 
and  S.W.  sides  are  downs,  the  fine  sand  of  which 
is  blown  about  by  the  winds  and  often  covers  the 
cultivated  grounds  and  pa^ures.  On  the  east  side 
is  a  haven  for  Vessels  of  fifty  to  sixty  tons,  and 
the  road  called  Bois  de  la  Chaise,  aflbrds  good 
anchorage  to  large  vessels.    It  exports  salt. 

Isle  thBU,  five  leagues  S.W.  of  Noirmoutier, 

is 


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ii  a  gmnite  fock,  aleague  and  a  half  in  surface, 
covered  with  a  thia  layer  of  vegetable  earth  and 
Mmd,  prodi&iDg  com  enough  to  feed  its  SOO  inhabit 
tants,  all  fishermen,  for  three  months  of  the  year*^ 
A  few  cows  and  sheep  form  the  other  riches  of 
the  island.  It  has  no  haven  nor  any  good  anchor*- 
age  round  it. 

Isle  Rhe,  two  leagues  distant  from  La  Rochelle, 
is  separated  from  the  main  by  the  channel  called 
jPertuis  Breton,  with  depth  for  large  ships*  The 
island  is  four  leagues  long  and  one  broad  and  haa 
17)000  inhabitants.  It  prodi^es  neither  trees, 
com,  nor  pasture,  and  but  some  poor  vines,  iti 
chief  riches  being  in  its  salt-works.  St.  Martin, 
the  principal  place,  is  on  the  N.E.,  has  2,700  inr 
habitants  and  is  defended  by  three  forts.  On  tha 
N.W.  point  of  the  island  is  a  light-house,  and  o» 
the  north  side  the  little  iqcoosiderable  isle  d^Om 
{GiK>ae  Island.) 

The  isle  of  Oleron,  three  leagues  from  tht 
mouth  of  the  Charente,  is  separated  from  Isle  Rhe 
by  the;Fertius  d'Antioch,  and  from  the  main  by 
the  Mawnisson  Passage^  a  very  narrow  channd, 
with  but  three  fathoms  at  low  water.  CHeron  has 
twelve  square  leagues  of  surface  i  is  fertile,  pro* 
ducing  wine  and  com,  and  has  some  profitable 
aalt-worfcs.  St  Peter,  the  chief  place  on  the  east 
side,  has  4,000  inhabitants.  St.  Urgeirf;  on  the 
aoirth,  and  tte  castle  of  QLeron  on  the  N.£.|  are 
the  other  plaices  of  any  note«  On  the  north  point 
t^  the  islaad  is  the  tower  of  Chassiron,  in  which 
twowood&res  are  kept  burning  at  ni^^ttp  serve  aa 

lights. 


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ioifdt. 


SO  MAEITlMfi '  GfidGRAPHY* 

lights.  iTie  isles  Aix'  and  Madade^  are  het^ett 
Oleron  and  the  Charente,  the  mouth  of  which 
*iver  is  commanded  by  a  fort  on  isle  Madame. 
JBasque  road  is  the  anchorage  between  the  isles 
JRhe  and  Aix,  where  the  Rochefort  squadron  layg 
•previous  to  putting  to  sea. 


The  general  prejudice  in  France  against  the 
profession  of  a  merchant,  threw  almost  the  whole 
trade  of  the  kingdom  into  the  hands  of  foreigners, 
imtil  the  reign  of  Louis  XIV.;  for  although  Henry 
IV.,  feeling  the  necessity  of  an  active  maritime 
commerce  to  the  national  prosperity,  encouraged 
the  multiplication  of  merchant  ships,  by  laying  a 
-tonnage  duty  on  all  foreign  vessels,  while  Cardinal 
^Richelieu,  in  the  reign  of  his  successor,  created 
societies  for  the  extension  of  trade,  as  well  as  a 
council  of  commerce ;  and  though,  under  the 
administration  of  Colbert,  the  active  foreign  tntde 
Teceived  still  greater  encouragent,  and  a  commer- 
cial maritime  code  was  formed  in  1681,  neverthe- 
less the  increase  of  merchant  marine  was  veiy  slowi 
for  in  1669  only  600  national  vessels  were  em- 
ployed in  foreign  commerce,  and  at  the  commence- 
ment of  the  eighteenth  century  they  amounted 
but  to  800,  of  between  250  and  100  tons,  of  which 
mimber  100  of  the  largest  were  employed  in  the 
colonial  trade. 

The  commercial  clauses  of  the  treaty  of  Utrecht 
(I713)  prevented  the  increase  of  merchant  ves- 
sels,, for  by  these  clauses  the  vessels  of  England^ 
Holland,  Denmarkj^  and  Sweden,  were  freed  from 

port 


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port  duties  in  France ;  apd  as  the  three  latter  c^' 
nationSy  together  with  the  Hanse  Towns,  sailed 
their  ships  considerable  cheaper  than  the  French, 
they  got  possession  of  the  greater  portion  of  their 
canying  trade.  In  1787f  the  tonnage  employed 
in  the  commerce  and  fisheries  was  as  fdlows« 

Europe^  the  Levant,  Barbary,  \ 

:   and  the   United  American  V  161^82    532,687    694,269^ 

States ) 

India  and  China   6,667 

W«t  Coast  of  Africa,  Isle  of  1 

France  and  Bourbon    j  45,124 

West  Indies 164,081 

Greenland  and  Brasil  whale  i 

.foherie.    ;....!  3,720 

Newfoundland  fishery 53,800 

Home  fisheries    29,148 

Coasting  trajc    1,004,729      6,123  1,010,852 

1>468,851   538,810 
Grand  Total  . . . ;  2,007,66  J 

In    1792,    the    tonnage  had  considerably  'de- 
creased, as  appears  from  the  following  statement* 

Ketfelf  Mitred,   Jonnage.  Fetfric  mu7«^       Tonmuf- 

French    ....1,823     147,821     French 1,940       147,410 

English  ....1,940     145,012    English    ..'..3,111       190,662 
Other  nations  3,844    346,402    Other  nations  3,567      306,863 

7,607    639,235  8,618      644,935 

7,607      639,235 

Grand  Total....  16,225    1,284,270 

While,  during  the  war  of  the  revolution,  Eng*- 
land  was  annihilating  both  the  state  and  merchant 
marines  of  France,  the  National  Convention 
•enacted  an  act  of  navigation,  by  which 

1-  The 


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99  MARITIME  OEOGBiAPHT. 

1.  The  privileges  of  a  French  bottom  are  only 
to  be  accorded  to  vessels  built  in  the  French  do- 
minions^ or  captured  from  the  enemy,  and  of 
which  the  owners,  captains,  officers,  and  three- 
fourths  of  the  crews  are  French  subjects, 

2.  No  merchandize  to  be  imported  into  France 
or  her  colonies,  but  in  French  bottoms  as  above, 
ar  in  vessels  belonging  to  the  country  of  which 
the  merchandize  is  the  growth  or  produce,  or  to 
the  port  from  which  such  merchandize  is  usually 
shipped,  supposing  the  country  of  its  growth  or 
produce  to  be  inland,  three-fourths  of  the  crew  of 
such  foreign  ship  being  of  the  nation  of  the  flag 
she  bears,  under  penalty  of  confiscation  of  ship 
and  cargo  and  3,000  francs  fipe*  (English  and 
Spanish  raw  wool,  raw  silk,  dochineal,  indigo  and 
jewellery,  excepted  from  this  clause.) 

3.  No  foreign  vessel  allowed  to  carry  on  the 
coasting  trade  of  France. 

4.  No  French  vessel  to  be  repaired  in  s^  foreign 
ports  to  a  greater  extent  than  six  francs  per  ton» 
unless  in  cases  of  absolute  necessity,  to  be  proved 
under  penalty  of  the  confiscation  of  the  vessel. 

5.  No  Frenchman  resident  abroad  can  be  a 
part  or  whole  owner  of  any  French  vessel,  unless 
he  is  in  partnership  with  a  French  commercial 
house  established  in  France,  and  has  not  taken  the 
path  of  allegiance  to  the  government  of  the  coun- 
try he  resides  in. 

6.  Foreign  vessels  entering  a  port  of  France 
{lay  a  duty  of  two  francs  five  centimes  per  toiv 

beside* 


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tesktes  4D  ii^ci^  duty   of  eigMtetl  il^cs 
if  bdoW  ^00  tons,  and  thiriy-4ix  fhincs  if  abbtne. 

7.  French  xnesdels  abore  thirty  tons,  tthploy^ 
iii  thd  ^:ba«th^g  trade  of  the  Coasts  of  the  6iXiA  ^ 
M^diteniitteifi,  pay  only  a  duty  of  Meeta  efeiitittie* 
per  ton,  but  if  they  procefed  frbm  a  pdrt  of  tibef 
otean  io  one  of  th6  Mediterranean,  or  vice  trff»4f 
twetity  centimes.  Vessels  frotti  the  colonies  pajf 
thirty  centimes.  IBVendh  vessel*  from  fbtteigii 
ports,  or  from  the  flshenteS,  pay  no  tonnagfe  duty. 

The  regulations  providing  against  the  appoint* 
ment  of  incapable  persons  to  the  command  <it 
merchant  vessfek,  are, 

1.  Ko  person  Can  be  admitted  maiitfer  of  a 
Coaster,  who  is  not  twenty-foUr  years  of  age,  and 
who  has  not  Served  five  years  at  sea,  and  passed 
an  examination  in  working  a  vessel  and  ill  cdastid^ 
pilotage. 

S.  None  Can  be  admitted  to  command  a  mer^ 
chant  vessel  employed  in  foreign  voyages,  who  is 
not  twenty-four  years  of  age,  who  has  tot  served 
five  years  at  sea,  of  which  one  must  be  on  board 
^  ship  of  tvar,  and  passed  an  examitiation  in  the 
theory  and  practice  of  navigation  and  seamanship. 

The  exports  of  France  con^st  of  the  produe* 
fionS  of  her  soil,  mines,  and  fisheries,  of  hei 
flianufactures  and  of  colonial  produce.  The  priri^ 
dpal  objects  are  wines,  brandy,  vitiegar,  corfl^ 
miits,  olive  oil,  honey,  l^ax,  saflfron,  salt,  cattl*?^ 
wool  raw  and  spun,  tanned  and  prepared  hides' 
and  skins,  Iroti,  l¥Oollefts,  linens,  cottoils,  silkr^ 
perfumery,  watches,  toys,  hardware,  paper,  &c.  . 

VOL.  n.  D  Before 


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3^  IfAEITIME  OEOORAPHT. 

Before  the  revolution,  the  trade  of  France  to^ 
the  Baltic  was  very  considerable,  but  the  greater 
part  was  passive,  being  carried  on  by  the  ships  of 
Denmark,  England,  Holland,  and  the  imperial 
cities :  in  I788,  of  7OO  vessels  cleared  out  for  the 
north,  100  only  were  French.  The  objects  im-» 
ported  are  iron,  pitch,  tar,  hemp,  flax,  potash,, 
sail-cloth,  com,  timber,  salt  provisions,  cheese,^ 
green  hides,  jtallow,  butter,  feathers,  &c. 

From  England,  France  imports  copper,.  brass». 
steel,  tin,  lead,  coals,  earthenware,  leather,  cot- 
ton and  woollen  manufactures  and  hardware. 

In  the  commerce  of  the  south,  France  had  not 
an  equal  competition  to  contend  with  us  to  the 
north;  for,  with  the  exception  of  Spain  and 
Naples,  the  vessels  of  all  other  states  were  subject 
to  duties  in  the  ports  of  France,  which  gave  the 
national  vessels  a  considerable  advantage,  and 
bence  of  167,000  tons  employed  in  the  trade  to 
the  south,  83,000  were  national. 

From  Spain,  Portugal,  and  Italy,  France  im- 
ports fruits,  olive  oil,  and  dying  drugs. 

The  trade  from  France  to  the  Turkish  dominions 
was  more  considerable  than  that  of  any  other 
nation;  particularly  in  woollens,  which  of  late 
years  have  been  preferred  to  the  English,  in  con- 
sequence of  their  superior  lightness  and  cheapness. 
Moreover,  previous  to  the  revolution,  the  French 
of  Marseilles  divided  with  the  Venitians  almost 
the  whole  coasting  trade  of  the  Levant  The 
objects  of  import  from  these  countries  are  raw 

wool 


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wool  and  ^Xk,  goat$'  hair,  wax,  leatiier,  raw  cot-  G^mm. 
ton,  drugsi  spices,*  aad  coffee.  ^ 

The  commerce  of  France  with  the  ports  of  Bar-  ■•'^*^- 
bary  dates  from  the  year  1560,  when  the 
Mars^illois  received  from  the  government  of  Al- 
giers permission  to  form  an  establishment  in  that 
state,  to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  the  Bastion 
of  Fi:aQjce.  '  By^  a  convention  with  the  same  go- 
vernment concluded  in  1694,  the  French  were 
permitted  tofi^i  for  coral,  and  were  also  accorded 
the  exclusive  privilege  of  exporting  wheat,  wax, 
woci^  and  leather  j  and  of  importing  the  manu- 
factures of  France.  A  company  was  created  to 
carry  on  the  trade,  which,  besides  the  Bastion  of 
France,  had  establishments  at  Bonne,  Calle,  and 
Colo.  The  extent  of  this  commerce  was  very 
fluctuating,  but  was  averaged  to  employ  fifty 
vessels  or  12,000  tops,  800  seamen,  and  a  capital 
of  four  millions.  In  some  years,  140  vessels  have 
imported  into  J^rance  100,000  loads  of  com,  and 
30,000  quintals  of  wool,  while  in  other  years 
these  objects  have  been  reduced  to  a  cypher. 
They  were  paid  for  chiefly  in  Spanish  dollars.  The 
produce  of  the  coral  fishery  usually  defrayed  the 
expenses  of  the  establishments,  amounting  to 
100,000  francs.  In  1791  the  company  was  sup- 
pressed, but  in  1802  a  new  one  was  formed,  the ' 
coral  fishery  only  remaining  free  on  payment  of 
certain  duties  to  the  Company. 

France,  occupied  by  ambitious  projects  of  aggran-  cou^ 
dizement  in  Europe,  saw  Spain  possess  herself  of  ^"*^^' 

D  2  .  the 


ci-^atrte^ 


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36  MAIUTIME  GEOORAPHT* 

C96^.  the  riches  erf*  Mexico  and  Peru,  and  Ptiftagsi 
enjoying  Brasil,  before  she  turned  her  views  to- 
wards the  colonization  o£  the  New  World. '  Abbut 
the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century  tfie  first  at- 
tempts of  this  nature  were  made  on  the  banks 
of  the  St  Laurence,  but  so  slow  was  the  progresfl^ 
that  in  16@7  three  miserable  ^ttlements  alone 
had  been  formed,  the  most  considerable  of  which 
containing  but  fifty  persons.  As  we  shall  have 
occasion  to  detail  the  subsequent  progress  of  the 
French  in  America  in  our  account  of  that  con- 
tinent, we  shall  here  only  observe,  that  her  con- 
tinental colonies  in  that  part  of  the  world,  after 
many  struggles  and  great  vicissitudes,  had  arrived 
at  a  certain  degree  of  consideration  and  consis* 
tence,  when  they  were  ceded  to  Great  Britain 
in  1763. 

wea  tadtes,  Prcvious  to  the  revolution,  France  held  the 
next  place  after  Great  Britain  with  respect  to 
islands  in  the  West  Indies^  possessing  8U  Domin- 
fgpf  Guadaloup^  Martinico,  St.  Lucia,  Marie*^ 
galante,  the  Saints,  Deseada,  Tobago,  and  a  part 
of  St  Martin,  together  with  the  continental  colo- 
ny of  French  Guyana  or  Cayenne. 

The  West  India  cdonial  system  of  France  re^ 
sembles  that  of  England,  the  commerce  being 
generally  exclusively  reserved  to  the  mother  cotuoh 
try  and  her  subjects.  In  1788,  667  fVench  ves** 
sels,  of  191,000  tons,  exported  of  the  national  pro 
ductions  and  manufactures  for  sevens-seven  mil- 
lions  of  francs ;  and  in  the  same  year,  686  vessels, 

or 


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nuKcx.  fl7 

900fi00  tons^  imported  into  Branoe  the 
produce  of  the  colonies  for  218  niillions  and  a  half* 
in  the  following  objects; — 

Sogw  1^880^07  qaintalt  TiJae  89^71>000frBiici. 

Ca#ae  786,44r 87,642,000 

Cotum  100,557 21,783,000 

ladigo  11,109 10,453,000 

Cocoa  18,106 975,000 

Sundries  8,087,000 

218,511,000 

Neariy  th^ee-fourths  of  these  imports  were  re-ex- 
portedy  and  the  profit  on  them  constituted  almost 
the  whole  of  the  general  balance  of  commerce  in 
favour  of  France.  The  ports  into  vdikh  colonial 
produce  was  permitted  to  be  introduced  direct 
were  Dunkirk^  Calais^  Boulogne,  St.  Valery  sur 
Somroe,  Dieppe,  le  Havre,  Honfleur,  Cherbourg, 
St.  Halo,  Morlaix,  Brest,  Lorient,  Nantes,  k 
Jftocbelie,  Rochefort,  Bprdeauic,  Bayonn^  Cette^ 
Marsetllei^  and  Toulon. 

According  to  some  French  liistorians,  this  na*  S&^^' 
tion  traded  to  the  west  coast  of  Africa  so  early  ais 
the  fourteenth  century,  but  the  civi]  and  foreign 
wars  puttii^  a  stop  to  all  external  commerce,  it 
was  not  until  the  close  of  the  sixteenth  that  we 
hv^  any  certain  accounts  of  their  visits  to  this 
«9ast  Between  1^1  and  1791  the  various  branches 
^  this  trade  were  sometimes  granted  to  exclusive 
Mffpaniesi  sometimes  free«  In  1788  the  trade 
toaployed  105  vessels  of  95,377  tons,  by  which 
was  exported  from  France  for  seventeen  millions, 
producing  in  retnra  80,000  daves  srid  in^lhe  West 

D  3  Indies 


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SS  MARITIME   GEOGRAPHY. 

coionim.       jjidies  for  foHy.four  millions*;    eOO/XKUbt  of 
Arr?^!^'*   gum  sen^a,    worth  in  France  one  million  and 
a  half,    and  ivory  gold  dust,  &c*  for  near. one 
million. 

At  the  revolution  the  French  establishments  on 
the  west  coast  of  Africa  were  the  island  of  Arguin, 
Portendick,  Senegal,  the  island  of  Goree,  Albre- 
da  on  the  Gambia,  the  isle  of  Gambia  in  the  river 
of  Sierra  Leone,  and  Amokou  on  the  gold  coast 
The  whole  of  these  settlements  were  captured  by 
the  English  in  the  war  of  the  revolution,  and 
France  had  scarcely  time  to  retake  possession  of 
them  after  the  peace  of  Amiens,  when  by  the  re- 
newal of  the  war,  she  again  lost  them. 

The  ports  of  France  engaged  in  the  African 
trade  were  Le  Havre,  Harfleur,  St.  Malo,  Port 
Louis,  Nantes,  La  Rochelle,  Rochefort,  Bordeaux, 
iand  Marseilles. 
.^  In  the  Indian  Ocean,  France  possessed  the  Isles 
of  France  and  Bourbon  j  the  Seychelles,  Roderi- 
gues,  and  Diego  Garcia,  which  were  considered 
as  commercially  forming  a  part  of  her  £ast*India 
possessions.  The  Isles  of  France  and  Bourbon 
vx^re  of  considerable  consequence,  both  as  military 
stations  and  agricultural  colonies.  Roderigues 
and  Diega  Garcia  are  of  no  other  utility  than 
from  the  turtle  they  supply  to  the  Isle  of  France. 
T^e  Seychelles  may  be  made  of  more  importance, 
being  fertile  and  having  good  harbours.      Some 

small 

*  This  number  being  yerj  inadequate  to  the  supply  of  the  Frendi  Weal* 
liMii^i  the  Eagluh  made  up  the  deficieney. 


the  Indnui 


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FRANCE.  89 

ImriJl  establishments  hare  been  formed  on  them      

by  emigrants  from  the  Isles  of  France  and  Bdur- 
bon,  who  cultivate  some  cotton  and  the  spices  of 
the  Moluccas.  The  French  have  made  several 
attempts  to  form  permanent  establishments  cm  the 
island  of  Madagascar,  but  which  have  all  totally 
fatiled.  The  points  they  were  directed  to  were 
Fort  Dauphin^  Foul  Point,  and  Antongil  Bay,  all 
on  the  east  side  of  the  island.* 

The  first  attempt  of  France  to  share  in  the  i-t-indi* 
direct  trade  to  India  dates  from  I6OI ;   but  the 
enterprises  which  succeeded  for  near  half  a  cen- 
tury were  so  little  profitable,   that  she  again  con- 
tented herself  with  procuring  the  productions  of 
India  at  second-hand  from  the  Dutch  and  English. 
At  length,  in  l664r,  the  minister  Colbert  created  an        ^ 
East-India  company,  which  sent  out  some  diips, 
and  formed  an  establishment  at  Pondidieny.   The 
trade  of  the  French  in  these  seas,  however,    suf- 
fered many  interruptions  and  great  vicissitudes, 
and  in  I769  the  company  being  nearly  banlpupt 
from  the  losses  sustained  during  the  war  which 
ended  in   1763,    was  suspended,    and  the  trade 
continued  free  till  1783,  when  it  was  again  granted 
to  an  exclusive  company,  the  regulations  of  whicft 
were  calculated  to  render  its  affitirs  flourishing,  Imd 
it  not  been  for  the  disastrous  events  of  the  revo- 
lution.    The  first   dividend  made  in  I788,  w»s 
560  francs  per  share  of  2,000.      Between  1785 

D  4  and 

•  The  Isles  of  France,  Roderigucs,  and  the  Seychellei^  lunre  been  cedt4 
to  Bngland  by  tbt^mxnx  treaty  of  Paris. 


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EMt'ladiet. 


40  MABITIMS  GEOGRAPHY. 

Ml4  17S7  t)]^  miq^ber  of  Bhip»  seat  out  ^a^  iSi/^ 
yi«A  »imu9Uy«  of  the  average  burthen  of  SOQutonf 
wch*  The  anaual  average  amoiwt  of  e:(port;9  i» 
the  wne  period  was  17,41^000  francs }  a^d  ^ 
imports  d^7i}6i,OOQi&ancs.  Amqng  thepnnci{N)l 
9f  the  latter  w«re» 

Longdoths  of  Cofoma^odelfor  G»2pQi00Qfn. 

Muduw ...t.., •.4,488,000 

Tea  and  Coffee 5,000,000 

Silks , 8,000,000 

Pepper X,l62,000 

The  re-e:Kportation  of  ladia  produce  was  at  the 
4UUEDe  period  new^  eighteen  miUion^  of  whidw 
coffee  Ibrmed  ooe  millioKL  Th/e  depot  of  the  East- 
]iuU»  compaiiy  was  a|  lioriiinjt,  at  which  port 
the  retom  cffS^m  veri^  alone  pearmittdd  to  fce 
Ji^ld£d» 

The  French  eat^^bl^hp^ents  m  Judia  at  the  re* 
'^ut)<m  were  c^  th^  Q^r^wdel  coii^t,  Pondi- 
/dmrcy^  the  priooq)^  apd  i;^dence  of  the  Qover-' 
«pr«geB6rgl,  ^  the  ^tory  and  fgrt^  df  K^i(^  ; 
Miti^f  <a^  the  Malabar  coasi^  an4  ChAnderoagore» 
im  tiie  Hqg^^.    The  company  ha^  a^so  ^  fjiu^tQiy 

Jm  1784  the  total  exports^  of  i^ri^nce  ampuQt^ 

♦tfc... •>•*.••<, ••/•••..307ivUiaw 

■wd.thfi  inii^oftstp •^..— ^i 

iPl^l^pe  u>.  favour  of  France    86, 

Previous  to  the  revolu^on,  France  had  com* 
9Stffi^  tfeaities  with  most  part  of  the  maritime 
powers,  but  all  relation  mik  the  i^est  of  ^Qpe 

being 


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fffUKCS«  il 

bwig  broken  by  tbat  events  when  the  republican  ^3^^ 
j^vermnent  hful  acquired  consistency  it  became  — 
aece^sary  to  rmkew  -diem  formally.  The  treaty  of 
^Uumce  betwew  France  and  Spain,  concluded  in 
1796f  put  the  subjects  of  both,  as  to  commerce 
on  the  footing  of  the  most  favoured  nations*  In 
1800  4t  similar  treaty  was  concluded  between  France 
and  the  United  States  of  America,  and  in  1801 
portugd  agreed  to  admit  French  woollens  on  the 
s^me  footing  as  J^ghsh.  For  treaties  with  Sweden 
and  Russia,  see  vol.  i,  pages  401  and  411. 

The  commercial  relationsof  France  with  Turkey 
date  from  an  antient  period,  and  ware  unintarnqpted 
until  17^6,  when  FraiK!e  joined  Austria  in  the  war 
against  the  Porte.  The  inyasibn  of  Egypt  in  1798 
again  put  a  stop  to  all  intercourse,  but  at  the  gen^ 
ral  pacification  of  1801  a  treaty  was  eoneluded 
between  the  two  powers,  by  which  the  free  navi^ 
gation  of  the  Black  Sea  was  accorded  to  the  French 
merchant  flag,  and  permissiiHi  granted  tp  Imv^ 
resident  consuls  in  the  ports  of  that  sea. 

The  ancient  capitulations  wiA  Algiers-  wejre 
also  renewed  is  1801  ^  by  them  French  sukgects 
are  not  to  be  made  skves  unless  takea  fighfting 
on  board  the  ships  erf  the  enenues  of  Algiers.-^ 
To  be  sulijeot,  both  in  civil  and.cwninal  aifitxrs,  to 
the  French  agent  alone. — CapCaios  of  French 
ships  of  wair  or  commerce  not  to  be  forced  to 
receive  on  board  their  ships  any  objects  against 
their  wiU,,  or  to  go  where  they  do  not  choose.— 
The  proge^  of  FrienQh  subjects  dying  in  Algiers 
to  be  at  the  dispoi^  of  the  French,  agent. — French 

political 


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Mdatinns, 


42  MARITIME   GEOGRAPHY. 

pditical  or  commercial  agents  to  have  precedence 
of  the  agents  of  the  same  rank  of  all  other  na- 
tions. The  residence  of  the  agents  to  be  sacred ; 
and  in  case  of  war,  French  subjects  to  be  allowed 
-three  months  to  settle  their  afiairs  and  quit  the 
territory. 

During  the  usurpation  of  Buonaparte,  the  French 
consulate  was  nominally  the  most  extensive  of  E«- 
rc^e  ;  and  was  composed  of  consuls  general,  con- 
suls, and  vice-consuls  at  the  following  residences. 

Denmark  and  Edinburgh 


Norway, 
Eisineur 
Kiel 

ToDfiingen 
Christiansand 

Pruisia. 
Kpnigsberg 
Stetin 
Memel 
Colberg 
IHntzic 
Leipsie 

Russia. 
tSt*  Pctefsburg 


R08t0€k 

S»sdm» 
Gothenbourg 
Stralsond 

BrUithbUs. 
liOadoD 
Uverpool 


Dublin 
Cork 

Spam. 
Madrid 
Cadiz 
Malaga 
Carthagena 
Alicant 
Valencia 
Barcelona 
St.  Andero 
Dijon 
Corunna 
Majorca 
Canaries 

Portugal, 
Lisbon 
Oporto 

Italy. 
Milan 
Venice 
Ancona 
Trieste 
Naples 


Otranto 

Palermo 

Messina 

Malta 

Sassari  Sardinia 

.  Turkeys 
Joanina        '\ 
Prcvesa         J  Albaniii 
Scutari  j 

Trawnick 
Bosnia-serai  ^ 
Pristina  Servia 

Patras 


4 


'Bosnia 


} 


I 

Napoli  di  Romania  J 

Athens 

Salonica  ' 

Canea 

Candia 

Andrinople 

Dardanelles 

Wama 

Yassy     -% 

Oalatz    3 

Budiarest . 


'Morea 


Greece 


I.  Candia 


XTorkey 

Bulgaria 
r  Moldavia 
(Walachia 


Odessa 


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FRAKCE. 


43 


Odessa          7 
T.g«,rock     j»>«ckS« 

Jfriea. 

Grand  Cario  " 

1 

Smyrna          -n 

Alexandria 

f  Egypt 

Trcbisond       VAnatolia 

Rosetta          - 

\ 

Satalia           j 

Taiigiers   .    ^ 

. 

Latakta           . 

Larachc 

f 

Tripoli             )       . 

Algiers 

>Barbary 

StJobnd'AcrcJSyna 

Tunis 

L 

Seydc               ) 

Tripoly 

/ 

Aleppo 

/imerica. 

Savannah 

Bagdad 

New  York 

Portsmouth 

Bassora 

Boston 

Baltimore 

Larnaca          Cyprus 

Charlestown 

Kentuckey 

Rhodes 

Norfolk 

8eio 

New  Orleans 

Reta'thmt, 


The  home  fisheries  of  France  are  little  more  ^'^ 
liian  adequate  to  the  home  consumption,  the  wiars 
'with  England  and  the  House  of  Austria  having  al- 
ways prevented  the  herring  fiiAeries  from  receiv- 
ing the  extension  they  might  otherwise  have  done^ 
At  the  commencement  of  the  eighteenth  century, 
the  produce  of  this  branch  of  the  fisheries  was 
1,200,000  francs;  in  1752,  1,488,000;  in  I787, 
4,820,000  francs ;  and  in   1802   only  1,440,000. 
The  principal  herringfishery  is  on  the  coast  between 
Dunkirk  and  the  Lbire. 

Next  to  herrings,  sprats  form  the  most  consider- 
able of  the  French  home  fisheries,  the  average  an-  . 
nual  produce  in  peace  being  two  millions  of  francs. 
The  principal  fishery  is  on  the  coast  of  Britany, 
where  these  fish  arrive  in  June.  It  employs  300 
Jboats  of  two  to  three  tons  and  five  men  each.  The 

method 


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44r  MARITIME  GEOGRAPHY. 

method  of  curing  ihem^  is  salting  with  hromtL 
salt  and  letting  them  lay  for  fourteen  days^  when 
they  are  washed  in  salt  water,  and  laid  to  drain. 
A  proportion  of  oil  is  then  expressed  from  then)^ 
at  the  rate  of  a  barrel  of  oU  to  forty  of  fish.  A 
considerable  quantity  oi  these  fish  is  also  cwted 
as  anchovies,  and  sold  for  such,  though  they  are 
easily  distinguished  on  cemparison,  the  sprat  being 
larger  and  flatter  than  the  anchovy.  Sprats  are 
also  smoked  in  the  manner  of  herrings.  These  fish 
Wng  migratory,  they  would  remain  but  a  short 
time  on  the  coasts,  were  they  not  retained  by  a 
composition  called  reswe  and  rogue^  imported 
chiefly  from  Norway,  and  composed  of  the  in- 
ternal parts  of  fish,  which  are  thrown  into  the 
seSh  Sprats  are  also  taken  on  the  coasu  of  France 
on  the  Bay  of  Biscay. 

Themad(arel  fishery  is  principally  carried  o)a 
between  Dunkirk  and  St.  Valery,  where  it  com- 
meiices  the  4th  of  May  and  ends  the  19tH  of 
Jidy.  The  boats  employed  in  it  are  either  of  a 
piffieicint  siae  to  go  out  to  sea,  and  bear  the  drag 
^of  a  large  net,  or  small  one»  which  fish  close  to 
the  skire  with  hook  and  line.  What  is  not  con- 
.sumedffe^h  is  falted,  chiefly  for  home  consump- 
tion :  the  barrel  of  salted  flsh  of  4/XK),  1,300»  to 
the  1,000,  sells  ibr  120  franco 

The  whiting-pollock,  and  cole  flsb,  are  caught 
^l  the  year  on  the  coasts  of  Britaoy,  chiefly  near 
Audieme  Bay  ai^d  the  Saivts :  they  are  tak^i  by 
towing  the  hook  and  lipe.  The  overplus  not  cop- 
iume4,fre«h  is  salted  and  often  s^d  for  p^d. 

Tlie 


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IPftAKCE*  49 

Tbe  wiutiQg  is  fbuDd both  on tbe  ooasltfl  q£  the  ^Jj" 
channel  and  ocean^  said  in  most  abundance  oik 
that  of  Britany.  It  is  taken  with  nets,  from  De- 
cember to  February,  an(l  With  hook  and  line  all 
the  year.  The  overplus  is  salted  for  internal  con- 
sumption. 

Tbe  other  speqies  of  fish  taken  on  the  coasts  of 
the  channel  and  ocean,  are  Conger  eels,  princi- 
cipally  near  Belle  Isle,  Groaix,  &c.  what  fs  not 
consumed  fresh  is  salted,  dried,  and  sent  coast- 
ways  in  buncQes  of  200  weight.  The  fishing  season 
is  from  January  to  March.  The  hollibut  is  taken 
chiefly  in  the  British  sea,  the  overplus  is  dried.' 
The  skait,  ray>  turbot,  sole,  plaice,  and  other  flat 
fish,  «re  consumed  fresh.  There  is  a  considerable 
tunny  fishery  near  Bayonne. 

Oysters  abound  on  the  coasts  of  Normandy^ 
Britany,  and  Poitou ;  those  of  the  Bay  of  Can- 
calle  are  the  most  esteemed.  Granville  in  parti- 
cular employs  thirty  vessels  of  twelve  to  eighteen 
tons  in  this  fishery,  between  Christmas  and  Easter* 
The  produce  is  landed  at  Barfleur  and  Dieppe, 
and  from  thence  sent  to  Paris,  where  the  oysters 
fetch  thirty  sous  the  hundred.  In  peace  the 
English  also  take  off  a  great  quantity  of  Cancalle 
oysteis.  Cray  fish,  lobsters,  and  crabs,  are  taken 
chiefly  on  the  coasts  of  the  ocean. 

The  value  of  the  French  home  fisheries  (ex- 
clusive of  tunnies,  herrings,  sprats,  and  anchovies) 
at  the  dose  of  the  seventeenth  century  was  esti- 
mated at  above  one  million  and  a  half  of  francs, 
and  in  1787  at  near  two  miUions  and  a  half. 

Before 


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46  MARITIME  6£00RAPHt. 

Before  the  revoihition  tlie  total  annual  produce  of 
tlie  home  fisheries  was  ten  millions. 


SSl^y'  Shortly  after  the  discovery  of  America,  the 
French  had  vessels  employed  in  the  cod  fishery, 
on  the  coasts  of  Newfoundland ;  and  in  1635 
their  fishermen  established  a  post  at  Placentia,  to 
which  the  government  continued  to  send  a  chief, 
until  the  island  was  ceded  to  the  English  by  the 
treaty  of  Utrecht.  By  this  treaty,  the  French 
reseiTed  the  privilege  of  fishing  on  the  coasts, 
between  Cape  Bona\dsta  and  Point  Riche.  The 
war  of  1756  interrupted  this  privilege,  and  in 
that  year  the  English  squadrons  captured  all  the 
French  vessels  thus  employed  j  and  France  thus 
lost  25,000  of  her  best  seamen,  which  paralised 
her  maritime  exertions  for  the  remainder  of  the 
war.  By  the  peace  of  I763,  the  former  privilege 
was  restored,  and  the  isles  of  St.  Pierre  and 
Miquelon  were  confirmed  to  France,  for  the  pur- 
pose  of  drying  the  fish ;  at  the  same  time  was  ac- 
corded the  liberty  of  fishing  in  the  gulf  of  St. 
Laui'ence,  three  leagues  from  the  shores  of  the 
continent,  and  fifteen  leagues  from  the  shore  of 
Cape  Breton  island.  By  the  treaty  of  1783,  the 
fishing  limits  on  the  coasts  of  Newfoundland 
were  changed  to  the  space  between  Cape  St.  John 
and  Cape  Raye,  passing  round  the  north  end  of 
tlie  island.  All  these  privileges  were  confirmed 
by  the  treaty  of  Amiens,  and  again  by  the  treaty 
of  Paris,  1814. 

Independent 


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,  Indcpendentof  the  concurrence  of  the  Eiigljish,  SSfT'^ 
and  the  radical  defects  jntheFreoch  erxatic  sysj; 
tern  of  fishing^  their  cod  fishery  has  had  to  contend 
with  high  duties  on  import  until  I775,  when, 
they,  were  discontinued,  and  m  1802  bounties, 
were  granted  Iot  three  yearS. 

The  following  has  been  the  extent  of  the  French 
Newfoundland  fishery,  in  different  years,  previous 
to  the  revolution : 

Years.  No.  of  Vess.  Tonnaf  e.      No.  of  SeamcA   Value  of  Produce. 

1773      ...         ...  ...  6,033,600  fr. 

1784  330         ...  11,000     12,048,000 

1785  360 

1787      ...        53,800 

;  1788     372      41,865         ...         14,532,000 
The  chief  ports  of  France  engaged  in  this 

fishery  were  Dunkirk,  Granville,  St.  Malo,  and 

Bayonne. 

Before  the  revolution  France  had  a  few  vessels 

employed   in  the  Greenland    and    Brasil  whale 

fisheries. 
In   the  year  I787  the  proportion  of  tonnage 

employed  in  the  fisheries  was  as  follows : — 

Herring     ..^         ... 8,602 

Mackarel         5,166 

Spratts       '       3,060 

Sundries,  including  the  Mediterranean  12,320 
Greenland  whale        ...         ...         ...      6OO 

South  whale ...        2,982 

Newfoundland  53,800 

86,530 

Before 


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i^Mf* 


48  MABimCB  GEOORA^HT. 

Before  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth  eentary 
France  had  no  standing  navy,  in  her  naval  \eaf$' 
either  purchasing  or  hiring  ships  from  the  iner- 
<!hafits,  which  were  manned  and  armed  by  th£f 
crown  ;  and  in  1626  it  is  recorded,  that  an  as- 
sembly of  notables  petitioned  the  king  to  e^psi 
Certain  number  of  ships,  to  defend  the  coasts  of 
the  Channel  against  the  pirates,  While  about  the 
same  time,  on  the  demand  of  the  parliament  6f 
Provence,  the  government  purchased  seven  ships 
to  protect  the  Mediterranean  trade  from  the  Bar- 
bary  corsairs.  At  the  accession  of  Louis  XIV* 
the  navy  did  not  exceed  eight  or  nine  half  rottett 
third  and  fourth  rates ;  but  liiis  ambitious  prince, 
thinking  to  take  advantage  of  the  JSnglish  and 
Dutch,  who  had  exhausted  themselves  in  a  long 
and  bloody  maritime  war,  and  aspiring  to  the  so* 
vereignty  of  the  sea  as  well  as  land,  turned  all  his 
exertions  to  the  creation  of  a  navy,  and  with  such 
success,  that  iii  1684,  the  twentieth  year  of  his 
reign,  he  counted  100  sail  of  the  line,  manned  by 
60,000  seamen  ;  with  which  he  attempted  to  dis- 
pute the  sovereignty  of  the  sea  with  England  and^ 
Holland,  united  and  separate,  and  even  maintain- 
ed a  certain  degree  of  equality,  until  the  battle  of 
La  Hogue,  in  169S,  gave  a  blow  to  the  French 
marine  which  it  never  recovered ;  for  the  naval 
edifice  so  quickly  run  up  by  Louis  was  not  found- 
ed,  like  that  of  England,  on  the  firm  basis  of  ex- 
tensive maritime  commerce  and  fisheries,  and  it 
therefore,  as  might  be  expected,  fell  to  pieces 
with  the  first  adverse  blast. 

In 


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FRANCE.  ^ 

In  1799,  the  French  fleet  stood  as  foUowa:— 

40  of  the  line,  I  135  gun  pinnaces, 

50  frigates,  177  flat  boats  for  the  in- 

42  corvettes,  vasion  of  England, 

14  brigs,  16  half  xebecs, 

10  luggers,  11  gallies;  besides  thir- 

16  cutters,  teen  of  the  line, 

12  avisos,  twelve       frigates, 

14  store  ships,  and  four  corvettes, 

25  gunboats,  building. 

In  1812,  France  had  :— 

8  ships  . .  • .   of  ... .    120  guns, 

6    80 

69   74 

73  frigates  . .  from  .  •  48  to  28. 
France  possesses  within  herself  all  the  materials 
for  the  construction  and  equipment  of  her  marine, 
the  national  forests  affording  abundance  of  oak  and 
fir  timber,  pitch  and  tar.  Her  iron  and  copper 
mines  are  numerous,  and  hemp  is  abundantly  pro- 
duced in  several  of  the  provinces* 

TTie  French  navy  list  for  1813  was  as  follows  : 

MuRAT,  Kino  op  Naples,  Grand  Admiral. 


Pay  when  Faywhcnemp. 
aifoi 


OOcen. 


Bank  In  the  Anny. 


«nip.  oa 

shore  In 

peace. 

J^oacf. 


Boat,  or  on 
•hore     in 

war. 
Fraaca. 


Tal>ke  AUmvance 
afloat  per  dlrm. 


lOvice-aidinirals  .  gen.  of  division 

32  rear-admirals  .  gen»  of  brigade 
51  ciH^t.  de  ▼aisseau, 


12,000  .  18,000  ^  .^  ^^   ^  ^^        3j^ 


Ist  class  >ch«fdebHg. 


8^00 
4,000 


105  do  2d     doj  3,000  . 

222capt.defregate.  chef,  de  bataillon  2,800  . 

r27  Ueut  devahaeau    captain     .  .    1,600  . 

700  ensigns  «    .    .  lient.  in&ntry  .    1,200  < 
476  aspirans,  1st  class ")  800 

>norank 

2d  dais  J  600 

VOL.  n.  E 


6,000-^ 
4,600  J* 


4,500 
4,200.. 
2,400. . 
1.800.. 
800 

6oa 


A«VV4 


iQ  AHA  5  J^  «"*^  'o  chief  50 
**>'^"?ifcom.adiT.      2f 

15 

10 

f 


The 


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50  MARITIMfi  6EO0RAPHT. 

^S:  The  half-pay  is  the  one-half  of  the  full  on  shores 
in  peaoe. 

Promotion  takes  place  partly  by  seniority,  and 
partly  by  choice  of  the  emperor,  as  follows :— The 
emperor  names  all  the  flag  officers,  three-fourths 
of  the  captains  de  vaisseau,  half  of  the  captains 
de  fr^tes,  one-fourth  of  the  lieutenants  de  vais- 
seau, and  one-eighth  of  the  ensigns  de  vaisseau. 

No  officer  can  be  promoted  without  having 
served  two  years  in  the  rank  immediately  inferior, 
nor  can  any  be  promoted  who  is  not  in  actual  ser- 
vice.  The  progressive  ^seniority  of  officers  out  of 
employment  by  choice  lies  dormant,*  and  after 
three  years,  such  officer  is  colisidered  as  reformed 
or  retired,  and  receives  the  half-pay  according  to 
length  of  service. 

Officers  of  any  rank  may  command,  or  serve  in 
merchant  vessels,  on  peiinission  from  the  minister 
of  marine :  and  in  the  event  of  the  service  re- 
'  quiring  a  greater  number  of  officers  than  the  fixed 
compliment,  or  than  can  be  made  up  from  eligible 
aspirans,  captains  of  merchantmen  may  be  receiv- 
ed as  supernumerary  ensigns,  and  having  served  the 
necessary  time,  are  eligible  to  receive  the  rank  of 
lieutenant 

To  be  received  a  midshipman  or  aspirant,  it  is 
necessary  to  undergo  a  firstexamination  in  arithme- 
tic, algebra,  geometry,  statics,  and  navigation. 
Those  received  are  first  sent  to  one  of  the  three 
ports  of  Brest,  Rochefort,  or  Toulon,  where  a 
corvette  is  appointed  ta  exercise  them  for  six 
months,  firom  whence  they  are  sent  to  the  naval 

school 


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FRANCE.  ^1 

scbool  for  some  months,  and  from  diepce  are 
received  on  board  the  ships  on  service  as  aspirans 
of  the  second  class,  provided  they  are  not  under 
twelve  nor  above  eighteen. 

To  rise  to  the  first  class,  the  candidate  must 
undergo  an  examination  in  the  higher  geometry 
and  navigation,  must  not  be  under  fifteen,  nor 
above  twenly,  and  must  have  been  tweniy^four 
months  at  sea,  of  which  six  as  aspirant  of  the  se« 
conddaas. 

The  ports  which  have  administrations  of  marine^ 
are  Brest,  Rocbefort,  and  Toulon,  in  the  first 
class*  In  the  second,  Bayonne,  Bordeaux,  Bou- 
k^e,  Cahis,  Cherbourg,  Dunkirk,  Le  Croisic, 
Le  Havre,  Lorient,  Marseifies^  Morkdx,  Quimper/ 
JSt.  Malo,  andVannes. 

Tlie  marine  and  colonial  administrations  are 
united,  and  the  functions  <^  the  mh^ter  who  is 
at  their  head,  extend  also  to  the  commercial  con- 
sulate and  to  the  sea  fisheries.  During  the  late 
government,  the  artificers  in  the  dock-yards 
were  kept  up  by  conscripts,  selected  from  those 
qualified  who^l^  in  the  conscription  for  the  army. 
The  total  expense  of  the  civil  branch  of  t^e  ma- 
rine, exclusive  of  the  medical  establishment,  was 
near  two  millions  of  francs. 

The  corps  of  marine  gens-d'arme,  is  composed 
of  six  brigades  of  cavalry  and  forty-two  of  in- 
fentry :  it  is  employed  in  the  police  of  the  ports' 
and  sea  coasts,  and  is  under  the  command  of  the 
maritime  prefects. 

The  murine  engmeers,  composedof  officers,  are 

£  2  employed 


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S9  MARITIME  GEOGRAPHf. 

^aployed  not  only  in  the  building  department, 
but  also  in  the  superintendance  of  the  cutting 
timber  for  naval  construction. 

A  corps  of  sea  officers  and  seamen  is  also  at- 
tached to  the  army,  under  the  name  of  seamen  of 
the  imperial  guards,  intended  to  be  employed  with 
pontons  in  the  passage  of  rivers. 

The  seamen  for  the  imperial  marine  are  pro- 
cured by  a  register^  in  which  are  inscribed. 

All  sea-faring  men  serving  on  board  the  ships  of 
the  state,  or  merchant  vessels,  in  foreign  trade. 

All  perspns  employed  in  the  coasting  trade  and 
home  coast  fisheries,  or  in  the  fisheries  on  tlie  rivers 
below  the  flux,  of  the  tide,  or  where  there  is  no 
tide  belqw  the  place  to  which  vessels  can  go  up 
from  the  sea. 

All  persons  employed  in  lighters,  barges,  boats, 
and  all  other  craft  on  the  harbours. 

All  persons  employed  in  the  fisheries  on  the 
lakes,  rivers,  and  canals  of  the  interior. 

Every  person  aboye  eighteen,  who  has  made  two 
foreign  voyages,  or  who  has  been  at  sea  eighteen 
months,  or  in  the  home  fishery  two  years. 

Every  boy  or  youth  fii'st  going  to  sea,  between 
the  ages  of  ten  and  fifteen,  is  inscribed  in  the  re- 
gister as  mousse  J  or  if  above  fifteen  as  notnce* 

The  six  maritime  arrondissements  are  divided 
into  eighty-four  districts  and  subdivided  into  as 
many  syndicates  as  there  are  ports  or  havens,  and  a 
register  is  kept  in  each  syndicate. 

All  persons  inscribed  are  bound  to  serve  in  the 
imperial  marine  when  called  upon»  and  those  who 

come 


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THANCB.  -58 

come  forward  voluntarily  receive  a  bounty  of  one 
month's  pay. 

The  persons  inscribed  are  divided  into  four 
classes: 

1.  Bachelan?. 

2.  Widowers  without  children. 

3.  Married  men  without  children. 

4.  Married  men  with  children. 

The  seccmd  class  is  not  called  upon  unless  the 
first  does  not  afford  the  number  of  men  required, 
and  so  of  the  third  and  fourth. 

At  the  age  of  fifty  all  persons  are  exonerated 
from  the  inscription,  and  may,  at  the  same  time, 
Ibntinue  in  the  merehant  service  or  fisheries. 
•;  Persons  who  intend  to  quit  the  seafaring  life 
^e  ecased  from  the  register  one  year  after  such 
^ondjide  quitting  in  peace ;  in  war,  such  quittii^ 
4oes  not  exonerate  from  the  inscription. 

None  but  inscribed  seamen  (except  those  above 
fifty)  can  serve  in  the  merchant  vessels  or  fisheries. 

The  number  inscribed  in  1793  was  about 
90,000. 

The  seamen  serving  in  the  fleet  are  divided  into 
four  classes,  with  two  classes  of  rumcesj  and  two 
of  mousses*  Two  thousand  sea  apprentices  are 
constantly  supported  by  government;  they  serve 
but  two  years  and  ^  half,  and  are  renewed  every 
year. 

The  pay  of  the  seamen  is. 

Class.  Francs. 

1 30  per  month, 

2 «7 

B  3  Of 


jfr^iK- 


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jMvy» 


34$  MARITIME  OE0GRAPHT. 

Gass.  FranoB. 

Of  seamen 3 ^  per  month. 

4 21 

Of  novices 1 18 

2 15 

Of  mousses 1 12 

2 9 

The  promotion  of  seamen  from  the  lower  to  the 
higher  classes,  or  to  the  situation  of  petty  officers, 
takes  place  only  once  a  year,  and  only  in  port,  and 
is  also  limited.  These  advancements  are  dis- 
cussed in  a  council,  composed  of  the  captain  and 
other  commissioned  (^cers,  as  well  as  the  chitf 
petty  officers  j  and  the  promotion  is  awarded  by 
the  ballot,  except  to  the  situation  of  first  and  se- 
cond masters,  which  are  awarded  by  a  council  of 
the  commissioned  officers  only. 

The  marine  artillery  is  composed  of  four  regi- 
ments, four  companies  of  workmen,  and  four  com^ 
panies  of  apprentices.  These  troops  are  kept  com« 
plete  by  voluntary  enrolment  from  other  corps  for 
taoi  years,  at  the  expiration  of  whicfa  they  are 
entitled  to  retreat.  They  are  empkyed  afloat  in 
the  service  of  the  guns,  and  a»  marine  troops,  and 
are  also  oblig^  to  assist  in  working  the  sbip^  but 
not  to  go  aloft*  The  senior  officer  of  this  corps 
has  the  same  charge  as  our  master  gunner»  and 
junior  lieutenants,  with  respect  to  the  great  guns 
and  small  arms,  ammunition,  &c. 
.  The  artillery  also  serve  as  garrisons  in  the  sea* 
ports^  and  as  guards  in  the  dock-yards. 

The 


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FRANC£« 


55 


The  pay  of  this  corps  is. 


Nmg, 


Fr. 


Colonel 17 

Major.. ...14 

Chef.de.Bat...l2 

Captain 6 

Lieutenant. ..  4 
Sei3eant..;....*98  per  mo^« 
Corporal..  *..... 71 
Gunner..  4.  j^..46 


36  per  diem  ^ 

17 

50 

94 

16 


Besides  table 
allowance,  on 
the  s&me  foot- 
ing as  the  sea 
oflBcers. 


'  T|i6  provif ions  embarked  on  board  the  imperial 
marine  are,  salt  beef  and  pork  and  cod-fish,  bis- . 
cuit  and  flour,  peas,  beans  (calavances)  or  fayols, 
oil,  vinegar,  salt,  wine,  beer  or  spirits.  The  pro- 
portion of  salt  beef  embarked  on  board  in  victual- 
ling  for  six  months,  is  but  two  months.  , 

The  rations  in  harbour  |?er  diem  on  meat-days, 
^4oz.  of  fresh  bread,  or  18  oz.  of  .biscuits 
8  oz.  of  fresh  meat.  '  , 

|f.  pint  of  wine  (1~  pint  English),  on  l-j-f  pintsrof 

4  oz.  of  pe$is  or  beans,  or  S  oz.  of  rice,  with 
5  lb-  of  olive  oil  and  two  pints  of  vinegar  to  every 
1001b.  of  peas  or  beanaf  or,  lOlb.  of  oil  and  five 
piate  of  vinegar  to  every  JLOO  lb.  of  rice. 
,  Onma^e  days,  of  which  there  are  three  in  the 
week,  instead  of  meat,  4oz.  of  salt-cod,  with  a 
proportion  of  oil,  equal  to  15  lb.  of  oil  to  every 
100  lb*  of  fish ;  and  of  vinegar,  in  tlie  proportion 
of  16  pints  to  every  10©  lb. ;  or,  in  Ueu  of  fish, 
3  oz.  of  cheese,  and  4  oz.  in  addition  of  peas  or 

£  4  beans. 


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56  MARITIME  G£OORAPHT. 

^^2:      beans.    While  in  harbour,  one  sol  is  allowed  for 
every  three  men  per  diem  to  purchase  vegetables. 

The  rations  at  sea  are,  for  meat-days,  of  which 
there  aye  five  in  the  week,  for  the  first  two  months 
of  sea-victualling,  on  three  of  the  meat-days,  6  oz. 
salt  pork,  and  the  other  two  meat-days,  8  oz.  of 
salt  beef. 

The  allowance  of  cod  on  maigre  days  is  the 
same  as  in  harboiu: ;  but  the  former,  as  well  as 
beef,  is  only  embarked  for  two  months,  and  cheese 
is  afterwards  served  in  lieu. 

Every  seaman  is  obliged  to  supply  himself  with 
a  bag,  containing 

2  white  and  four  checked  shirts, 

2  pair  of  linen  trowsers, 
4  pair  of  stockings, 

3  jackets, 

3  waistcoats, 

4  handkerchiefs', 
1  cap, 

;ihatL 

All  deficiencies  of  these  articles  are  supplied 
from  the  slop-clothing  on  board,  and  chai^d 
against  the  pay.  Each  seaman  is  supplied  gratis 
with  a  hammock  and  coverlet ;  and  in  small  ves- 
sels on  the  home  station  in  winter,  a  great  coat  and 
pair  of  fisherman's  boots  are  allowed  to  each  man  j 
for  the  former  of  which  he  pays,  but  the  latter  are 
returned  into  store. 

The  rewards  held  out  to  the  French  marine  are 
gratuities,  consisting  of  pensions,  and  smart- 
money  for  wounds  ;  pensions  and  gratuities  to  the 

widows 


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widows  and  children  of  those  killed  in  tfaefiervice, 
or  who  die  within  six  months  after  being  wounded^ 
in  the  same  proportion  as  the  army ;  the  children  of 
seamen  dying  on  actual  service,  under  ten  years  of 
age,  are  also  allowed  a  monthly  provision.  Every 
seaman  is  permitted  to  allot  one-third  of  his  wages 
to  the  support  of  his  wife  or  family.  In  case  of 
shipwreck,  the  officers  are  allowed  a  coiiqiensation 
for  the  loss  of  their  effects. 

Both  officers  and  seamen  are  entitled  topenfflons 
of  retreat  from  length  of  service, 

JVom  wounds  received  in  the  service  rendering 
them  incapable,  or  from  infirmities  acquired  in  the 
service. 

The  period  of  service  alone  to  entitle  to  the 
pension  of  retreat  is  twenty-five  years,  (part  o£ 
which  may  be  passed  in  the  merdiant  service), 
commencing  from  the  first  gokig  to  sea,  provided 
not  under  ten  years  of  age. 

Officers  unemployed  are  allowed  the  period  out 
of  employment  as  simple  time. 

Service  afloat  in  war  is  counted  as  double  timey 
and  in  peace  as  one  half  more  than  simple  time« 

Employment  in  the  merchant  service,  either  ia 
peace  or  war,  is  only  counted  half  simple  tune. 

Service  in  privateers  is  counted  as  simple  time; 
but  in  both  these  last  cases,  the  time  actoaUy  un* 
der  weigh  is  alone  allowed :  and  moreover  one  third: 
only  of  the  whole  term  of  service  necessity  to,  re- 
treat is  allowed  to  be  past  in  the  merchant  service 
or  privateers.  The  different  cases  are  therefore  as 
fidlow; 

12|yeaii 


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its  MARITIMB  OJQOOEAPHT. 

/     lf^jmts$A0B^iliW9r,  eiqual  to 23 

,  l6i  nearly,  in  peace, • 25 

f  16  years  in  merchant  eef  vice  equal  to8> 

"^X^in  the  $erviee  in  war 17  i^^ 

^g^f&yeiirs  in  privateers 81 

*  \8x  in  sea  service  in  wear 17  j 

The  marine  invalid  che&t  is  a  kind  of  tontine, 
first  formed  by  the  voluntary  contributions  of  the, 
seamen.  It  was  estabii^ed  in  1689»  and  is  inde- 
pendent of  the  pensions  and  gratuities  of  govern- 
ment.   The  deductions  made  for  it  are, 

Thjree  per  cent,  cto  the  wt^es  of  seapien  em- 
ployed {n  (be  m^cbant  service. 

Three  per  cent,  on  all  the  expenditure  ,a£  the 
miirine. 

Teaa  per  cent,  en  the  sale  of  all  prizes. 
,  The  wlwle  produce  of  unreclaimed  wrecks^ 
:  The  wages  forfeited  by  deserters  ^(mh  the  ships 
of  war. 

Httftbe  wHges  dM^  to  deserters  from  inercbant 
vessels.  -         . 

.  The*  in^  and  prize  money  due  to  p^rjKins .  dy- 
ing afc  sfaa^  and  net  redaiwed  by  their  heir&  vithiD: 
4j|ertitii^  time. 

The  gtealest  pension  aoeeirdfeed  from  this  fund 
is  ^00  fitocs,  and  the  least  nh»tj*mJL 
*  Frsttoehas  fifteMijScbxds  of  iwv^tibn  of  the 
ftst  ckn»,  mti  tweMjr-ei^  of  the  second  i  to 
^wUefa  »t  admitted  aU  boys^  abote  thirt^n,  who 
ODi  ready^  write,  aodeolvie  1^  caseaof  the  f^nx  first 
tales  of  arithmetic* 
The  French  maritime  criminal  code,  or  artides 

of 


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FRA19CE.  6Q 

9(  wifft  divides  the  puntshment  it  decrees  for  ^ 
offences  on  board  ship  into  pumdunents  of  disci* 
pHne  and  corporal  punishment;  the  former  ar» 
ordered  to  be  inflicted  by  the  captain  ch*  officer  of 
the  W9tch  on  the  seamen^  and  by  the  Command* 
ing  olk^er  of  the  artiUery,  or  other  troops,  on  his 
corps.  Corporal  punishment  can  only  be  inflicted  « 
by  the  sentence  of  a  councfl  of  justieei  and  af)M 
the  report  of  a  miHtary  jury  who  find  the  &cU 

The  military  jury  for  the  trial  of  petty  officers 
is  to  be  composed  of  two  lieutenants  or^nsigns^ 
and  five  petty  officers ;  for  seamen^  of  one  liente- 
nant  and  ensign,  three  petty  dffieers,  and  three  sea« 
men*  The  council  erf*  justice  is  to  be  (k>dipoSed  of 
Ihe  Atc  officers  next  in  rank  to  the  Mptain,  who  if 
excluded. 

All  complsdnts  must  be  made  in  writing  to  tkd 
comnauider,  who  orders  the  formation  of  a  jury 
with  all  the  fbrm^ties  used  on  shorOf  and  the  pro* 
ceedings  must  be  inserted  at  the  end  of  the  muster 
roll.  The  verdict  of  the  jury  is  according  to  tha 
majority  t)fvot^,  five  to  two  being  niecessary  to 
conyictiod.  On  the  verdict  being  given  of  ao 
quittal*  the  prisoner  is  kimediately  liberated  by 
order  of  the  council  of  jiirftice ;  if  the  feet  is  fiKind, 
the  council  dtlftiercite  oa  die  puniiAment^  whfch 
is  decreed  Jby  ibe  simple  iBsgoritf  of  votes.  The 
sentence  is  made  known  to  liie  ieoamander,  who 
is  bound  to-order  lh«  6(xecnttotf,>  bsimig  the  power 
dT  mitigating  H  ime^egvte  ^ify ;  but  ffeithb#  dbes 
the  power  of  the  counett  of  juMiee  extend  to  tte 
|)unishment  of  death  <Mr  the  jfdBeys^;.  and  if  .the 

council 


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60  MARITIME   GEOGKAPHY. 

/ 

council  find  the  crime  to  be  of  a  nature  to  incut 
one  of  these  penalties,  the  prisoner  is  remanded 
to  a  court  martial  of  eleven  members,  captains  and 
lieutenants,  which  court  cannot  give  a  judgment 
of  death  but  on  a  msgority  of  eight  to  three,  nor 
to  the  galleys  but  on  a  majority  of  seven  to  four. 

If  an  officer  is  to  be  tried  on  board,  the  council 
of  justice  is  converted  into  a  military  jury ;  and 
if  the  fact  is  found  against  him,  he.  is  put  under 
an  arrest,  to  be  tried  by  a  court  martial  the  first 
opportunity. 

No  commander  can  be  tried  by  the  pfficers  of 
his  own  ship ;  but  if  in  port,  or  in  a  squadron, 
complaint  is.  to  be  made  to  the  commanding  officer, 
who  is  to  order  a  jury  of  four  officers  of  his  own 
rank,  and  three  of  the  rank  immediately  below  him,: 
to  try  the  fact. 

Masters  of  merchantmen  ;Under  convoy,  or  em* 
j^oyed  witha  squadrod,  are  liable  to  trial  by  a 
jury,  composed 'of  two  naval  officers  and  five  mas- 
ters of  merchantmen. 

The  punishments  of  discipline  are, .  stoppage  of 
wine  or  spirits,  for  not  more  thm  three  days; 
irons  on  deck,  for  not  more  than  three  days  j  im- 
prisonment for  the  same  period. 

The  offences  that  incur  these  punishments  are, 

1.  Simile  disobediattce»  or   rather   neglect  to 
obey  the  orders  of  a  superior* 

2.  Drunkenness  without  disturbance. 

3.  Quarrelling,  whece  neither  arms  nor  stidu 
^are  used,  or  no  Ukxxl  drawn. 

4.  Absence  without  leave.  /" 

5.  Missinj^ 


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FRANCE.  61 

.  5.  Missing  muster  on  watch  j  and  finally,  all 
other  petty  oflbnces  against  the  discipline  or  orders 
pf  the  ship.  Any  of  these  (^nces  committed  at 
n^ht  is  subject  to  double  punishment. 

Officers  committing  breaches  of  discipline  are 
punished  by  arrest  or  imprisonment,  suspension, 
and  loss  of  pay  for  one  montli. 

The  corporal  punishments  are,— 

Lashes  with  a  rope's  end  at  the  capstan. 
.    Imprisonment  in  irons  for  more  than  three  days. 

Keel-hauling. 

Running  the  gauntlet 

The  gallies. 

Death. 

Keel-hauling  cannot  be  done  more  than  three 
times;  and  the  gauntlet  is  confined  to  going 
through  thirty  men  four  times.  ^"^^^  The  sentence  to 
the  gallies  renders  the  convict  incapable  of  again 
serving  on  board  ship;  and  petty  officers  sen- 
tenced to  the  keel, or  the  gauntlet  are  thereby 
reduced  to  the  lowest  class  of  seamen. 

.  The  application  of  these  corporal  punidiments* 
and  of  those  of  reduction  of  rank  and  pay,  are  as 
follows : — 

Seditious  expressions,  six  days'  irons. 

Attempting  to  prevent  the  execution  of  any  duty, 
if  an  c^cer,  dismissed  the  service ;  and  if  a  petty- 
officer,  reduction  to  the  lowest  class  of  seamen  for 
three  years ;  if  a  soldier  or  seaman,  four  days*  irons. 

A  seaman  or  soldier  plotting  against  the  liberty 
or  personal  safety  of  an  officer,  three  years'  gallies. 

Any 

•  See  iuAM  at  the  end  of  this  tolume. 


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60  MABITIMS  OEOGRAPHT. 

^*         Any   person   plotting  against  the  liberty    or 
aut^Qiity  of  the  commander,  the  gidlies  &r  life. 

Treasonable  corr^pondence  with  the  enemy, 
death. 

Fetty-<}tfficer  or  seaman  strikii^  an  officer,  death. 

Any  cconmander  abandoning  the  command  of 
his  vessel  to  escape  from  danger,  or  striking  while 
he  is  able  to  resist,  death. 

Any  commander  quitting  bis  vessel  after  her 
lo^s,  until  be  has  seen  eveiy  other  person  put  oi 
her,  death. 

Abandoning  a  convoy,  death. 

Any  commander  guilty  of  disobedience  to  the 
orders  of  his  superior,  dismissed;  and  if  attended 
vHith  aggravattng  drcumstances,  rendered  ineiqpa- 
ble  of  serviflg  again*  ^If  in  the  presence  of  an 
enemy,  deadn. 

Any  petty  officer  or  seaman  qiutting  his  station 
in  time  of  action  to  conceal  himself,  the  gauntlet, 
or  death*. 

Any  officer  quitting  his  station  in  time  of  action^ 
£rom  cowardice,  if  it  is  his  first  campaign,  is  dis- 
missed .the  service ;  in  all  other  cases  is  cashiered 
and  declared  infamous,  or  death. 

Any  person  hauling  down  the  colours  in  action 
without  the  orders  of  tibie  commander,  death. 

Ally  person,  without  orders  from  the  com- 
mander, cr}ring  out  to  strike^  three  years'  gallies ; 
and  if  his  example  tends  to  discourage  the  crew, 
he  may  be  put  to  death  by  the  captain,  mikt  the 
advice  of  the  officera. 

*   Losing  a  vessel  from  negligence  or  ignorance, 

if 


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if  an  officer,   broke*  and  d^dared  incapable  of    ^' 
serving ;  if  from  disaffection,  deatii* 

Pilot,  in  similar  circumstances,  three  years' 
gallies,  or  death* 

Theft,  twelve  lashes ;  ^and  on  riqpetition,  the 
gauntlet 

Robbery,  with  vidence,  the  keel ;  and  on  rqpef- 
tition,  six  years'  gallies. 

Robbery  committed  on  shore  in  the  French 
domimons,  twelve  lashes ;  in  foreign  countries,  the 
keel. 

Robbery  of  stores,  &c.  the  gauntlet,  or  the  gal-, 
lies  for  a  number  of  years,  according  to  the  degree 
oif  the  o&nce. 

A  commander  losing  his  vessel  throu^^  disobe^ 
dience  of  orders,  broke  and  impracrnqd  £k  five 
years. 

Positive  disobedience,  or  refuaiAg  t5  cdwy  in  Jk 
petty  officer  or  seaman,  twelve  laahes  j  if  attended 
with  insult  or  menace,  the  keel 

Petty-officer  or  seaman  lifting  his  band  against 
^n  officer  to  strike  him,  the  keel  cue  t^(St  years' 
gaUies. 

Positive  disobedience  in  an  officer,  reductiitf)^  of 
r%nk  one  degree,  or  broke,  and  two  years'  impri- 
aoom^nt  *,  if  accompanied  witli  faenaae,  rendered 
incapable  of  serving  again. 

Any  petty*officer  or  aeapi^n  qiutting  his  post 
during  the  day^  is  to  be  lashed  to  the  mainmasts 
i((NC  oi^  hoWf  and  his  pay  reduced  one  dogcee ; 
if  during  the  night,  the  punishment  is.  douhk.     ^ 

An' 


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04  MARtTIM£  GEOGRAPHY. 

An  (^cer  quitting  the  deck,  in  his  watch,  to 
deep,  reduced  one  degree. 

Embarking  merchandise  in  the  imperial  ships, 
if  the  commander,  first  time;  suspension  for  two 
years,  second  time,  dismissed;  if  an  officer  or 
petty-officer,  loss  of  two  years*  time,  during  which 
he  can  receive  no  promotion,  and  the  merchandise 
forfeited  to  the  invalid  chest. 

Conveying  on  board  any  inflammable  articles 
or  spirits  without  leave,  if  an  officer,  dismissed ; 
if  a  petty-officer  or  seaman,  first  time,  twelve 
lashes,  second  time,  the  keel. 

Lighting  fire  in  improper  places,  or  without 
leave,  or  carelessly  leaving  it  so  as  to  endanger 
tiie  vessel,  if  an  officer,  dismissed,  if  a  petty-officer 
or  seaman,  the  keel ;  and  if  he  acts  in  contradic- 
tion to  an  express  order,  or  if  any  accident  occurs 
in  consequence,  three  years'  gallies. 

A  petty-officer  or  seaman  striking  any  other 
petty-officer,  twelve  lashes;  and  if  a  severe  wound 
is  the  consequence,  the  keel. 

An  officer  ilUtreating  a  petty-officer  or  seaman, 
suspended  and  imprisoned,  by  the  judgment  of  a 
council  of  justice. 

Neglecting  to  pursue  an  enemy  beaten  or  flying, 
or  refusing  to  assist  a  friend  in  distress,  broke  and 
rendered  incapable  of  serving. 

Any  commander  of  a  merchant  vessel  abimdon- 
ing  his  convoy,  three  years'  gal  lies. 

Any  flag-officer,  or  captain  de  vaisseati,  who 
from  negligence  or  ignorance,  shall  not  perform 

the 


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FfUNCE*  6& 

the  duty  on  which  he  is  orctered,  rendered  inca-     ^ 
paUe  of  commanding;   and,  any  other  officer, 
rendered  incapable  of  holding  a  command  for 
tbreajrears* 

Troops  of  the  line  embarked  are  subject  to  the 
marine  criminal  code^  as  well  as  the  crews  of  ships 
wrecked,  until  th^  aie^  k^gally  dismissed  the 
sendee*  i 

The  £a&owu^  articles  are  added^  under  the 
head  of  Regulations  of  Discipline. 

JSdngleadexs  of  miitioy,  death.   . 

Acdessaries  of  mutiny^  three  years'  galKes. 

RaisiBg  &lse  reports  in  order  to  create  fear^ 
eight  days'  irons  and.  loss  of  two  degifees  of  rank. 

Concealing  treasonable  designs,  if  an  officer, 
dismissed ;  if  a  seaman,  reduced  one  degree.  , 

Officer  of  the  watch  not  immediately  using  his 
endeavours  to  suppress  any  tumult,  three  years' 
inijprisonment. 

Petty-officer  or  seaman  not  keeping  his  watch, 
three  days' irons. 

Selling  qpirits  on  board,  five  years'  galHes. 

Druidcenness  in  an  officer,  dismission. 

It  is  prohibited  to  forward  any  collective  peti- 
tion :  the  armed  force  having  no  right  of  delibenu 
tion,  but  should,  according  to  law,  be  entirely 
obedient  /> 

*  All  crimes  committed  by  the  persons  employed 
in  the  dock-yards  are  punishable  in  the  same  man* 
ner  as  in.  the  fleet ;  but  where  these  punishments 
dufmet  be  resorted  to^  those  #f*th6  army  are  sub- 
stituted. 

vok-.  iL  t  When 


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60  MARITIBCE  GEOCRAPHY. 

M%.  When  a  ^p  of  die  line  is  tb  be  laid  up  i»  ofdL» 
nary,  the  captain  who  oommAoded  l^r  last  i emftiw 
dttirged  witir  the  ojHe  of  her,^  And  has  uilder  him 
a  lieutenant  and  an  ensign.  He  is  obfif  ed  td 
visit  her  twice  a  yeir,  and  to  make  a  report  9C  her 
c^fDdiitoii.  A  captain  de  fr^ata  and  eraig»  am 
attacked  ix»  every  fi%alte  in  the  same  maniler,  aod 
a  lieutenant  to  every  corvette  of  twenty  guM|  moA 
m  enagn  to  all  veasab  above  tweiva  guns^  or  6OO 
tons  burthen. 

The  whole  value  of  vessek  of  ww  taken  ftom 
the  enemy  is*  accorded  to  the  captors ;  of  the  pro* 
duce  of  merchant  veasels,  one-third  is  applied  to 
the  suppOTt  of  the  invalid  estabUalmimit. 

Of  the  nett  produce  of  {uma,  otie-third  goes  to 
tibe  officers  and  two-thirda  to  die  petty  •officers  md 
seinten. 

Og^er^  Shares^ 

Admiral  cotemamdis^  ia  chief.  »....••••  90 

Vice-admiral  ditto # 90 

Vice  admiral  subordinate 1^ 

Rear-aclmiral  commaoding  in  chit^ 15 

Rear^^uimiral  aiiborduiate  •  *  •  •  • 10 

.    Captain  of  a  flag-ship  ...^ « ^ 

Captaifit  de  vaisaeau  commanding  a  ship  of 

the  line » * .  •  ^ 

Captaia  de  vaisseau  commanding  a  frigate    3| 
Captain  de  &^gate  eoB^manding  a  frigate     8 
Captain  de  fr^te  serving  as  secoiid  captain 

in  the  line  «••.«.«..•* «.»»*••«   d  . 

Lieut  commanding  a  frigate  or  other  \emei  H 

lieut 


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nuarcs.  9t 


lieut.  not  commanding  ••...••^•••«.»».  X       prtaT 

Ensign  and  commander ••••»••  1 

Ensign  not  commanding  •••««••.»•««•«   ^ 

Head  surgeon  and  purser,  each , ,  •   \ 

Aspirant ••...•   \ 

In  conjoint  expeditions  of  army  aod  sav^ 
officers  of  similar  rank  share  together. 

When  a  vessel  is  detached  irem  a  cruJsini^ 
squadron,  the  one-third  of  the  prkes  she  may  take 
during  htr  absence  beloi^  to  herself}  and  she 
shares  ia  the  other  two-thirds  with  the  wbolt 
6q[uadron. 

Persons  left  <m  shore  sick  shM^  in  ^  prisAs 
made  by  their  sh^s,  provided  thcfy  return  to  them 
«r  to  some  other  ship  in  the  wfaadrmi ;  but  if  thfiy 
join  the  skip  <^  another  squetdron^  they  are  only 
entitled  to  share  in  the  prizes  made  by  their  former 
ship  durii^  the  month  after  their  quittisg  het# 

The  heirs  of  piersons  kiUed  m  batUe  we  entttleld 
to  share  in  the  prizes  taken  in  the  saoie  crmtt^ 
withm  one  month  after  the  decease  of  thek 
relations. 

Gtevemmrat  has  the  cation  af  purcfasBit^  vessels 
ofwar  fromtbeci^^teirs^  atthefbUowingG«teo>^ 

Vessels  of  90  gaaeaadup'imi'ds  5,000' per  guD. 
Vessels  of  80  to  €0uMitt»ve...4,i000   «*«-->' 

VcMekof 60 to ^ ... 8,000  — — 

The  gratoitief  tot  ik»  destraetian  of  eaeacfs . 
vessels  ci  mur  wfe, 

r2  For 


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6b  maritime  geography. 

For  ships  of  the  line 800  firancs  per  gun. 

Frigates  land  smaller  Vessels  600     ■ 

Privateers, ...,400     — — 

Privateers  assisting  men  of  war  by  order,  receive 
a  share  of  the  prizes  taken  during  the  continuance 
of  this  order,  in  proportion  to  the  number  of 
their  guns. 

Men  of  war  have  no  claim  to  any  part  of  the 
prizes  taken  by  priviateers,  not  in  company,  even 
in  their  sight,  unless  actually  assisting. 

Merchant  vessels  employed  with  a  fleet  share 
in  the  prizes  taken  in  their  presence ;  the  masters 
sharing  as  ensigns,  the  chief  mates  one-fourth  of  a 
share,  and  the  other  mates  one-eight 

French  vei^sels  recaptured  belong  totally  to 
the  captors,  after  having  been  twenty-four  hours 
in  the  possession  of  an  enemy;  before  twenty-four 
liours  the  salvage  is  one-third. 

All  persons  are  strictly  prohibited  from  selling 
their  shares  of  prize  money ;  and  any  person  pur« 
diasing  such,  besides  losing  the  purchase-money 
and  the  prize  money,  if  any,  is  subject  to  a  fine 
erf  1,000  francs. 

The  following  gratifications  are  paid  to  priva- 
teers for  the  capture  of  enemy's  vessels :— 

For  vessels  of  war  of  three  masts, 
mounting  twelve  pounders  and  up- 
wards   .»••.•• 360  per  gun* 

For  vessels  of  war,  of  three  masts, 
mounting  four  to  twelve  pounders  d40 

For 


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7KANCIU  Q^ 


For  small  vessels  of  war  and  priva- 
teers, mounting  twelve  pounders 
and  upwards • 240  per  gan« 

For  small  vessels  of  war  and  priva- 
teers, mounting  four  to  twelve 
pounders 160 

And  fifty  francs  for  each  prisoner. 

^or  letters  of  marque  moimting 
twelve  pounders  and  upwards  •  •  •    160 

]^or  letters  of  marque  mounting  four 
to  twelve  pounders 1X0 

And  forty-five  francs  for  each  prisoner* 


jS 


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7^  HARITIia  4MMQRAPHT. 


SPAIN. 

The  nortli  coast  of  Spain  runs  nearly  east  and 
west,  with  no  otlier  indentations  than  a  few  insig- 
nificant bays  and  rivers.  In  general  the  mountains 
approach  the  seat  8^d  the  coast  is  of  safe  approach. 
The  proyiaees  which  compose  it  are  Biscay, 
divided  into  Biscay  Proper,  or  Senorio,  and  Gui- 
puscoa,  Asturias,  and  a  part  of  Galicia. 

The  chief  head-lands  are  Ci^e  Machichaco,  be^ 
tween  St  Sebastian  and  Bilboa,  a  high  steep  point; 
east  of  the  Cape  three  miles,  and  two  miles  from 
Cape  Ogono,  a  remarkable  hanging  promontory, 
is  Isaro  island.  Cape  de  las  Penas  {Scythicum)  is 
named  from  rocks  and  shoals  lying  off  it  a  mile 
and  a  half,  with,  it  is  said,  a  safe  passage  within 
them ;  the  cape  is  broad,  high,  steep,  and  whitish, 
and  the  coast  to  the  east  is  composed  of  per- 
]|pndicular  cliffi. 

Cape  Orteoal  (Trileucmi)^  supposed  to  derive 
its  name  from  Ort,  in  the  northern  dialects  a 
point  of  land,  and  Galicia  is  nearly  the  north 
point  of  Spain,*  and  one  of  the  extremities  of  the 
mountains  of  Galicia :  it  is  a  lofty  and  steep  pro- 
montory, off  which  is  a  cluster  of  rocks,  cidled 

the 

•  Point  de  la  Eftaca,  east  of  Caps  Ortegal,  is  the  absolute  north  point, 
MBgonemikb^^her  in  latitude  than  the  cape. 


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the  FaPibm  of  QrtegaU  or  JgidBones  (needOes)^  «w. 
with  aHarrow  diannel  in  ten  fatlioixis  witibintheaL 
Cape  Prior,  seven  or  eight  leagues  SLW»  of  Capo 
Qrt^ai^  is  a  high  pranMmtory,  with  a  low  sand/ 
beach  at  eadi  aidet  which  causes  the  eapp  to  makt 
like  an  idand.  The  coatt  between  it  and  Cape 
Ort^^,  has  many  rocks  near  the  ihMe.  Cape 
St.  Adrian,  the  ^xtxetmty  of  Mount  Bea»  has  eff  - 
it  Cisarga  island,  and  several  ahoais  widi  ohanneb 
between  them,  Cisaiga  idand  is  a  mile  and  a  hatf 
long  and  has  fresh  water.  Cape  Vilkno,  or  Beleaw 
is  a  high  red  moimtatn,  the  sumatt  membling  a 
tower.  Cape  Toriana,  is  three  leagaes  SIV.  of 
Cape  Viflano,  and  two  leagaes  fiuther  is  Caps 
f^Ki6T£RRE  (j^mtm),  the  west  pout  of  Spam  t^ 
k  isa  steep  uneven  promontory  widi  low  land  to 
the  riorik ;  off  it  is  the  tittHe  adand  Seotolo,  with 
a  passive  between.  Mount  Laura  is  m  insulated 
mountoin  of  a  round  form,  and  round  which  ace 
several  reefi  and  dioals.  Cape  Corrobeda,  €he 
nordi  point  of  the  Rio  de  Roko,  is  die  last  renmrk* 
able  point  on  these  coaats. 

^Tbe  salient  projection  of  GaUeia  being  6X« 
posed  to  Ae  coMtant  action  of  the  Atlantic,  is 
more  broken  than  1^  coftsts  of  Aaturias  or 
Biscay;  it  is  also  to  be  observed,  that  from^^i^ 
VHiiaterDe  along  these  coasts,  a  constant  curoent 
seteto<iMeast»  with  the  velocity ^iudf  a ttUe to 
amile  per  hour,  according  as  the  winds  are  easterly 

F  4  or 

*  ff^Qm  west  point  of  Europe,  as  h  is  stated  in  books  of  geography^ 
fhis  point  bdog  Cape  Roxtnt,  in  Portugal. 


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72  MARirmS  GBOORAPHf. 

or  westerly.  The  tides  on  this  cowt  nse  fifteen 
feet  in  springs,  and  it  is  high  water  at  three  P.M. 
on  full  and  change. 

The  south  coast  of  Spain,  without  t^  Strait  of 
Gibraltar,  is  various.  From  the  Guadiana  to  Falos, 
eleven  league  it  is  moderately  elevated  and  even  ; 
from  Falos  to  the  Guadalqmvir,  ten  leagues,  it  is 
red  downs.  These  coasts  form  a  deep  curvie, 
bounded  by  Cape  St  Mary  in  Portugal  on  the 
west,  and  on  the  east  by  Cape  Trafalgar.  This 
bend  is  sometimes  called  the  Gulf  of  Cadiz, 
though  this  name  is  more  generally  confined  to 
the  Bay  of  Cadiz. 

Cape  Trafalgar  (the  promontory  qf  Juno)p 
the  outer  point  of  the  Strait  of  Gibraltar,  is  a  little 
hill  risihg  from  a  long  low  point.  It  is  famous  for 
the  great  naval  victory  gained  by  Lord  Nelson  over 
the  combined  fleets  of  France  bx^  Spain,  the  Slst 
October  1805.    On  this  point  is  a  light-house. 

Tariffii  point  is  the  south  point  of  Spain.  Be- 
tween it  and  Cape  Trafalgar  are  several  towers 
to  defend  little  rivers  from  the  landing  of  the 
pirates ;  and  off  the  point  is  the  island  Tariffit, 
small,  round  and  even,  with  a  light-tower,  on  the 
N.E.  There  is  no  passage  between  it  and  the 
point. 

The  rivers  of  Spain,  which  empty  themselves 
into  the  Atlsmtic,  are  in  general  insignificant,  both 
as  to  length  of  course  and  volume  of  waters,  but 
most  of  them  form  small  ports  at  their  mouths  for 
coasting  vessels. 

Bidassoa 


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VAIN. 


73 


Bidassoa ....  FooUrabia, 

Urameft  •  • . .  St.  Sebastian, 

Orio    Orio, 

Urola Zamaya^ 

Dcva Dcra, 

Andaro   ....  Andoo, 

Lequietio    . .  Lequktio, 

Hea Hea, 

lioadaca. . . .  Mondaca^ 

Ybaychalval .  Bilbao, 

AsoQ SantoTia, 

Miera Bay  of  St.Andero, 

8aja    Snances, 

Nansa Barca, 

rSc^Vtnoeiiledftla 

"*■  t     Barquero, 

Tina  del  Egu^^ 

^,     ,,  t  Between      Si. 

Tm.Mayor..f     ^j^,  ^ 

St.  Yusti I 

LaBalotta..-'     i«ianc8, 
Llanet    ....  Llaoes, 
Nf  embro ....  Niembro, 

Bedon Bedon> 

Riba  de  Sella  Jonco, 
ILastres  . .  • .  Iiastres, 
Linares  ....  Villa  Viciosa, 

Fdas  near  Gijon, 

Abono Abono, 

Aviles Ayiles, 

Prayia Mnres, 

Canero  ....Canaro, 
Beceida  ....  Liiarca^ 
NaWa%.,,,.NaTiay 


Deva 


IHven,  Mn^tiei  at. 

Bo,  orMl.|mb^j^^ 

randa  ..  ) 
Masma   .....Fo^ 

Fasooro Fasouro, 

Junoo JuncOy 

Mondoneda  .  VillnVclas, 
Landrom    ..Vivero, 
DelSor  ....  Puerto  Barquewv 


St.Mfirta    7 

Carln  . .  3 

Esteiro   . . . . 

Jubia 

Mendeo  . . . . 


Bay  of  Carin, 
Bay  of  Cedeiroj 
Ferrol, 
,  Betanzos, 

Mero Bay  of  Coranna; 

Allooes  ....Bayof  Corme, 
Rio  de  laPaento  Camarina  B«y» 

Lezaro    BafofCorcnbioa 

Tambre  ....  Bay  ci  Marot» 
UUa 

Rio  Roxo, 


UUa  ^ 

Argobispo    >] 
Umia  ....  J 


Vedra Ponta  Vedra, 

Coldeba ....  Nifo  Bay, 
Romalosa  . .  Bay  of  Bayooa, 

Ifinbo Goarda, 

GoadUna    . .  Ayamont^ 
Piedra     ....Lepe, 

Odiel Huelya, 

Tinto Palos, 

Rio  del  Oro . 
Onadalquirir  St  Lncar, 
Ratooijio    ..BayofCa^ 
Guadatetti  ..Sta.Maria». 


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74  MARITIME  ailOORAFHT. 

The  ffidassoa,  nvhich  separates  France  and  Sft^, 
must  be  coo^dered  as  appertaining  to  the  latter, 
for  though  the  breadth  of  its  entrance  between 
the  two  shores  is  two-thirds  of  a  mile,  a  ledge  of 
rocks  runs  off  from  the  French  shor^,  so  a^  to 
leave  but  a  very  nairow  channel  fix  vessels  oi  20ft 
tons,  close  to  Ijie  Spanish  side.  In  the  river 
IMtriy  at  the  crossing  place  from  Fontarabia  to 
Andaya  on  the  French  side,  is  a  smdl,  barren, 
and  uninhabited  island,  formerly  named  the 
lAe  of  Pheasants,  but  beii^  the  place  whec9 
the  conference  was  held  between  France  ^od 
Spain,  which  produced  the  peace  cf  the  Pyranv 
n0«%  it  thence  received  the  name  of  Isle  de  b 
Ckmfibeiiee. 

T^e  Riba  de  Selfat  is  a  gfeat  torrent,  emptying 
itsdf  between  two  mauntaiai,  with  such  velocity 
during  the  freshes  that  it  is  impracticable.  At 
other  times  small  vessels  enter  it  with  the  flood* 

The  Miranda,  which  separate  the  provinces  of 
Asturiai  and  GaJi(^>  has  twenty-fbur  leagues 
ciNiffe. 

The  Mifibo,  wlii^  on  the  coast  separates  Spain 
and  Portugal,  has  its  source  in  the  mountains  of 
Galida,  and  derives  its  name  from  the  quantity 
of  red  lead  (minium)  found  on  it3  banks.  It  i$ 
navigable  only  twelve  leagues,  aod  ican  only  b« 
ascenjied  wit;h  |;be  ti4^  >t  flood,  ihe  €i>b  nmmig 
out  vith  siieb  r^pidky  u  to  render  it  impmotiedMe. 
Near  the  sautb  \mik  i|  the  islet  Irfba  witii  a 
Portuguese  fort 

The 


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The  Guiujiaai  (Ams\  which  nko  «ep«ittes  'li!:?* 
%MUji  and  Portugal,  riaes'  in  the  Smm  MpreM 
(Black  Moiifitaina) :  its  entraoce  is  cross^  by  a  bar« 
with  eighteen  £eet  at  bali'  ti(l@  and  twen^-four  feejt 
U-  high  water  spri^g8•  This  river  dis$qipeara  oew 
Aliczar  de  St  Juan  in  la  jMaodiav  and  aH^r  nmr 
ning  under  ground  near  eight  leagues,  again 
emerges  at  some  lakes  catted  the  Eyes  of  the  Gua* 
diana.  At  the  mouth  of  this  river  is  Higuesota 
island^  with  the  little  town  of  Canals  on  its  west 
side* 

The  Tinto  (Uriym)  alio  rises  in  the  Sierra  Mo^ 
rena»  and  has  its  name  frcHn  tiie  colour  of  itf 
waters,  wiiich  are  quite  yellow.  It  has  also  the 
property  <^  hardening  sand  in  a  singular  c^uan^  ( 
it  withers  all  the  plants  on  its  banks,  nor  will  any 
fish  Uve  in  it ;  it  is  given  to  animals  to  kiU  woro^s^  , 
but  no  animal  will  drink  of  it  vduntarily  exc^ 
goats*  It  loses  all  these  properties  when  ii 
receives  the  streoos  of  other  rivulets  at  Niebla* 
f(ix  leagues  £rom  it»  mouth. 

The  Guadsd^vir  (Bcetis),  one  of  the  ptmcipri 
rivers  of  Spain,  has  its  rise  in  the  Sierra  Moreaa^ 
and  a  course  of  100  leagues.  Its  mouth  is  one 
mile  wide,  but  a  sand*bank  tubs  off  from  each 
^ore,  and  there  are  also  some  rocks  which  natrow 
the  sh^  chapiu^  to  a  i^piarter  of  a  mile.  On  the 
W^  peint  of  the  ^ntraiM^  is  the  tawar  of  Saa 
JiM^india,  mi  on  the  east  the  castle  of  Eqpintii 
$mct9f  hvtgfi  yeyseli  ascend  to  Seville,  si^pteen 
k$gaiB  from  the  seab  below  whidi  it  ^eads  ii^ 
n  iKoaU  l^k^ 

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76  MARITIME  GEOORAPHT. 

The  system  of  canals  in  Spain  is  still  in  em- 
bryo }  two  or  three  leagues  have  been  compleated 
of  one  intended  to  join  the  Manfanares  with  the 
Tagus,  to  open  a  communication  between  Madrid 
and  the  palace  of  Aranjuez*  The  canal  of 
Castile  has  been  abandoned. 


Fontarabia,  the  first  town  of  Spain,  is  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Bidassoa,  half  a  league  from  its 
mouth:  it  is  strongly  fortified*  Passages,  five 
miles  west  of  the  Bidassoa,  is  the  best  harbour 
on  the  Bay  of  Biscay  for  large  ships,  being  an  ex^ 
tensive  basin,  three  or  four  leagues  in  circuit, 
surrounded  by  mountains,  and  with  an  entrance 
only  ninety-two  fathoms  wide,  between  two  great 
rodky  points,  so  that  vessels  are,  in  contrary 
winds,  obliged  to  warp  or  be  towed  in.  A  con* 
siderable  portion  of  the  basin  dries  at  low  water^ 
but  there  is  space  for  a  large  fleet  in  six  to  eight 
fathoms.  The  town  on  the  west  shore  consists 
ooiy  of  a  single  street  The  entrance  of  the 
port  is  defended  by  the  castle  of  St  Isabel. 

St.  Sebastian,  the  chief  town  of  Guipuscoa,  has 
13,000  inhabitaiiSts :  it  is  situated  on  a  pcnnt  of  land 
washed  by  the  little  river  Urumea  {Metuesevm)^ 
on  the  east,  and  by  the  sea,  ¥^ch  forms  a  cove, 
on  the  west  On  Mount  Agudo,  the  west  p<Hnt 
<^tlie  cove,  is  a  light-house.  The  river  Urumea^ 
which  washes  the  w^Us  of  the  town,  receives  ves- 
sels of  fifty  to  sixty  tons  with  the  tide^  woA  has  a 
good  salmon  fishery.     In  the  cove  to  the  west  is  a 

haven 


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8PAIK.  77 

haven  foimed  by  two  moles,  where  twenty-five  to  ff*j>i* 
thirty  vessels  find  space,  but  lay  dry  at  low  waten 
Nearly  fai  the  middle  of  the.  entrance  of  the  cove 
ii  the  lofiy  island  of  St  Clara,  with  a  hermitage  de- 
dicated to  this  Saint  The  passage  in  is  between 
this  island  and  the  Peninsula^  on  which  is  the 
town,  and  which  terminates  on  a  lofty  hill,  named 
Mount  Oigiillo,  (Orgueil),  on  which  is  tbe  castie  of 
La  Mota.  The  town  on  the  irthmus  is  surrounded 
by  a  rampart  flanked  by  bastions  smd  half-moons, 
and  is  commanded  by  La  Mota,  the  ascent  to 
which  is  by  a  ^iral  pathway.  The  commerce  of 
St  Sebastian  is  considerable,  exporting  iron,  a^* 
diors,  <^lesy  leather,  and  wool. 

Orio  has  a  small  tide  haven  fi>r  vessels  of  twelve 
feet :  vessels  of  considerable  size  are  built  here, 
and  the  hulls  sent  to  Passage  to  be  eqaippedL 
Zarauz,  a  village,  to  the  east  of  which  is  a  little 
islet  and  shoals.  Descargo  and  Guetaria  jure 
fishing  towns,  the  latter  has  300  inhabitants, 
and  is  on  a  cove,*  which  together  with  the  lofty 
rock  or  islet  of  St  Antonio,  joined  to  the  main  by 
a  pier  400  fee^long,  forms  a  little  dry  tide  haven. 
Zumaya,  on  the  river  Urda,  that  admits  oody  small 
craft  over  a  bar,  has  considerable  iron  founderi^ 
the  iron  from  which  is  sent  to  St  Sebastian. 
Deva,  on  a  river  which  admits  vessds  of  fifty  tp 
sixty  tons  at  high  wi^r  over  a  bar.  Motrico,  a 
pier  haven  on  a  cove  used  by  vessels  of  100 
tons. 

Andaro,  or  Ondarroa,  on  a  little  river  ihat  re^ 
ceives  vessels  of  fiQ;y  tons.    Lequietio,  also  on  a 

river. 


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78  MARITIME   oeoORAPHT. 

j^jW*.  riv6r,  reteeitcs  vessels  dl  100  tons,  which  lay  dry  at 
Bi*my.  j^^  water*  Brfore  it  is  the  island  St.  Nicholas, 
left  oti  the  r%ht  in  entering.  The  town  and  river 
of  Hea  is  only  frequented  by  fisfaing  boats,  it  is 
two  miles  and  haif  east  of  Cape  Ogono.  Mon« 
ftms  is  on  a  river  (hat  receives  vessels  of  100  tons. 
Mondaea  river  forms  a  dry  tide  haven  within  two 
piers.  Bermeo,  on  the  west  shore  of  a  large 
cove,  has  a  pier  tide  haven,  and  before  it  the  isle 
df  St.  Francisco.  Racentia,  west  of  Cape  Ma- 
ehichaeo,  is  on  the  Durongo,  whdse  bar  is  practi- 
cable for  v^selfi  of  fifty  tons  with  tiie  flowing 
vKte*' 

Portugalette,  a  small  town  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Ybaychalval,  half  a  mile  above  the  bar,  which 
almost  crosses  the  river,  leaving  only  a  narrow 
and  shiftJng  channel  practicable  wilh  the  flowing 
tide  towards  the  west  shore. 

BifLBOA,  the  chief  town  of  Biscay,  is  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  river,  two  mil^  above  Portugalet- 
te ;  it  contains  15,000  inhabitants,  and  is  cdebrated 
for  its  fine  climate  and  agteeable  situation.  Its 
trade  is  considerable  m  the  export*  of  wool,  iron, 
chesnuts,  and  oil.  The  fingUsh  chiefly  take  of 
t^e  woo!  50,000  bags,  valued  at  five  millions  of 
piastres ;  tlie  iron  is  sent  to  Corunna,  Ferrol,  and 
Cadi^  for  4iie  use  of  the  naval  arsensds;  the 
the^ufs  to  England  and  the  nortli.  Here  is  a 
Toyal  administration  of  marine,  a  school  of  ooai^ng 
pilotage,  and  several  building  yards. 
,  To  Bilbao  succeed  the  sttiall  totttis  of  Somo- 

fostro,    Onton,    Castrd-Ufdiales,   and    Orinon; 

the 


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Ibe  twtf  first  »r«  mi  oretks,  irhkh  only  admtt  '^J? 
small  craft  at  bigb  wat^.    Castro  is  oti  the  wait  ^**^' 
poiBt  of  w  oipen  bay,  tfao  bottom  of  wbich  is 
ipuly  exj^t  near  the  shore,  where  three  or  fout 
vessels  ma^  &ni  dear  ground*     At  the  head  of 
the  bay  is  a  pier  dry  tide  ha^en  for  coasters* 

The  harbour  of  Santona  is  one  of  the  best  of 
th$  Uorth  coast  of  Spoifi  for  middling  sized  yei»seH 
but  k  little  frequented*  On  the  east  shore  qfikt 
eaatfUnce  is  the  town  of  Laredo,  with  a  pie^  havefi 
for  small  craft :  tiie  village  of  Santona  is  on  the 
Dfpoftite  sklcw  A  ^^  up  a  small  river*  The  en^ 
tranct  is  defended  by  several  batteries* 

Sirt  A»9i»6  is  one  of  the  most  considerable 
towkis  in  papulation  aisi  commeiee  of  the  noM^ 
frwinces  of  Spain.  It  is  on  a  biiy,  bounded  cm 
the  east  by  the  island  of  St*  Marino ;  and  betv^ee* 
this  island  and  the  head  of  the ,  bay,  whotft  h  the 
kowD»  are  the  islands  Moro  aad  I^tonre^  Md  Ch« 
gpeut  perforated  rock  Qrodada ;  besides  the  outeir 
iaarboiir  there  is  a  pier  haven  at  the  town^  whf  #e 
smaH  veascblie  ata.quay.  The  channels  in  Are 
4efended  by  two  casllles  and  several  batteriMi 
The  town  m  buik  on  an  eminence,  and  has  1^009 
ii^abitants.  Before  the  war  it  had  ferty-4wd 
national  and  eighteen  French  and  English  ce«K- 
merc&d  bouses^  and  it  was  the  residence  of  tbe 
foreign  agettts,  c^iuged  Wi^  the  commerciid  t^ 
latiofts  of  tibe  ports  of  Biscay  in  general.  Its 
experts  aH  wool  to  England  acid  f^^ance,  bMi^ 
^  fiov,  and  €(donial  prodnoe,  having  the  privilege  >ef 
i^iiffi$  cUredly  to  the  colonies,  for  which  in  1868 

forty- 


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Btocay. 


80  tf  ARrnMS  obooeaprt. 

forty-five  vessels  cleared  out,  and  from  whence  in 
the  same  year  thirty-seven  entered. 

St  Marthiy  four  leagues  west  of  St.  Andero,  is 
a  small  tide  haven  for  fishing  boats.  St.  Vincente 
de  la  Barquero  has  a  haven  for  vessels  of  twelve 
feet,  with  two  channeb  in,  formed  by  the  little 
island  Callo. 

Uanes,  a  small  dry  tide  haven.  Riba  de  Sella, 
already  noticed,  is  only  a  tide  haven.  Lastres 
liver  admits  only  vessels  of  forty  tons.  Villa 
Viciosa,  on  a  point  between  two  little  rivers,  and 
three  miles  from  tlie  sea :  the  entrance  is  crossed 
by  a  bar,  admitting  only  vessels  of  twelve  feet 
with  the  flood.  Sanson,  a  little  tide  haven  on  the 
west  side  of  the  long  point  of  Tassones,  on  which 
is  a  castle.  On  the  east  side  of  the  point  is  an 
islet  with  anchorage  under  it. 

GuoN,  a  trading  town  of  3,000  inhabitants  and 
fourteen  commercial  houses,  has  a  good  road  and 
a  dry  tide  haven  within  a  pier,  at  the  mouth  of  a 
river,  for  vessels  of  twelve  feet  It  is  protected 
by  a  castle.  The  exports  are  chesnuts,  filberts, 
and  walnuts,  to  England  and  the  north ;  mill- 
atones  from  some  neighbouring  quarries,  and 
cyder  to  the  Spanish  colonies.  Torres,  a  fishing 
village,  a  league  west  of  Gijon.  Candas  and 
Luanco,  are  on  small  coves,  where  the  fishing 
lK>ats  lay  dry  at  low  water.  Aviles,  three  leagues 
&S.W.  of  Cape  de  las  Fenas,  is  on  a  point  of 
land  formed  by  the  curve  erf*  a  river ;  it  has  3,000 
inhabitants,  chiefly  fidiermen,  isind  a  dry  tide, 
haven  for  their  barks^    It  is  defended  by  Fort  St 

Juan. 


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srAtv.  81 

iluat).  Tte  river  Pravia  i«  dangerous,  and  only  l^^t  T<mu. 
visited  l)y  small  coastenr.  Luarca,  on  a  river  that  A»timM. 
admits  vessels  oi  tea  feet.  Four  miles  west  of  it 
is  the  island  RomaniUa  de  la  Vega,  before  the 
harbour  of  Vega,  to  which  succeeds  the  tide 
haven  of  Navia,  where  is  some  trade.  Via  Veles  j 
Porcia,  a  little  tide  haven  seldom  visited;  Castro* 
pol,  on  the  ri^t  bank  of  the  Miranda. 

Bibadeo,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Miranda,  is  o«iici«. 
built  on  an  eminence ;  vessels  of  seventeen  feet 
^nter  tjie  riVer,  and  make  fast  with  a  cable  to  the 
abore:  the  castle  of  St*  Damien,  on  the  west  shore» 
defends  the  port  Rilo,  a  village  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Masma,  wiri«h  admits  small  craft«  Foz  and 
Faaoura  are  ainuist  u^ess,  even  to  small  craft* 
ViUbk  Velas,'  on  liie  Mondoneda,  receives  vessels 
oi  nine  feet  with  the  tide.  Two  leagues  ftirther 
weat  are  the  Farelons  of  St.  Cyprian,  two  white 
rocks  to  the  north  of  the  little  river  of  the  same 
namey  uaekss  to  shippings  but  before  which  is  an« 
chorage  widun  the .  island  Suela.  Itie  island  of 
Anaaton  is  N.  W.  of  St.  Cyprian. 

The.bay  of  Vivero  is  a  league  wide  and  three 
leagues  de^  aflbrding  good  anchorage  all  over  it, 
in  six  to  eight  fathoms.  At  the  west  point  of  the 
entrance  is  liie  island  Gaviera,  and  at  the  head  of 
the  bay  the  fidand  Quiemada.  Vivero  is  on  a 
steep  hill,  rising  from  the  right  bank  of  the  Lan« 
drova,  which  forms  a  dry  tide  haven  for  vessels  of 
seventeen  feet. 

The  bay  of  Stanqi^s  le  Varre,  also  called  the 
ii^et  ci  Barquero,  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  Punta 

VOL.  n.  o  de 


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Por4  Townt. 


82  MAtllTIME   GEOGRAPHY* 

de  la  Estaca;  it  is  an  excellent  harbour,  three 
miles  wide  and  six  deep,  with  six  to  four  fathom^ 
depth.  The  island  Conojera  is  near  the  east  shore 
of  the  entrance,  and  has  on  the  west  side  a  fish- 
ing village,  with  a  pier  of  loose  stones,  within 
?vhich  the  boats  lay  dry  at  low  water. 

Santa  Marta  and  Carin  are  in  the  bay  between 
Point  de  la  Estaca  and  Cape  Ortegal.  The  rirer  of 
the  former  receives  vessels  of  ten  feet ;  the  latter 
is  practicable  for  larger  vessels  with  the  tide. 

Cedeira,  south  of  cape  Ortegal,  has  a  good, 
though  small  port,  for  vessels  of  burden,  the  en- 
trance  being  between  two  high  shores. 

The  harbour  of  Ferrol  {Magnus  Partus)  is  one 
of  the  best  of  Europe,  beipg  ten  miles  deep,  and 
from  a  quarter  to  a  half  broad,  with  depth  for  the 
largest  ships  to  Ferrol,  five  miles  from  the  entrance, 
and  for  frigates  two  miles  further.  Both  shores 
arc  lofty  and  lined  with  forts,  and  the  haven,  ot 
arsenal,  wliich  is  formed  by  piers,  may  be  closed 
with  a  boom.  Here  are  the  necessary  docks  and 
magazines  for  a  large  fleet,  together  with  barracks 
for  6,000  artificers,  and  a  marine  school.  The 
town  has  8,000  inhabitants,  but  no  other  trade  than 
what  the  presence  of  the  fleet  produces,  foireign 
merchandize  not  being  allowed  to  enter  it. 

The  bays  of  Ares  and  Betanzos  are  separated 
from  Ferrol  harbour  by  a  peninsula :  the  islands 
of  Marola  and  Miranda  are  in  the  entrance. 
These  bays  are  open  to  the  N.  W.,  and  consequent- 
ly dangerous.  The  little  towns  of  Ares,  Redes, 
and  Betanzos,  are  on  these  bays ;  the  latter  (Fla- 

vium 


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SPAIN.  89 

^okm  ^igaatium)  is  on  the  side  of  a  little  hill,  at  p^j;^\ 
the  foot  of  which  runs  the  Mendeo.  ^*'^* 

'Corun'na»  or  the  Groyne,  is  a  celebrated  port 
formed  by  a  semicircular  basin,  two  miles  wide  at 
the  entrance,  and  two  leagues  deep  j  but  has  only 
a  confined  space  of  deep  water,  sheltered  from 
the  N.  and  N.W.  winds.  North  of  the  town  one 
mile  is  the  tower  of  Hercules,  an  elevated  build- 
ing on  a  hill,  which  serves  as  a  light-house,  and 
may  be  seen  twenty  leagues.  At  each  point  of 
the  harbour  is  a  castle,  St  Martin  and  St.  Clara* 
The  town,  containing  4,000  inhabitants,  is  built 
on  the  south  point  of  the  entrance,  and  is  composed 
of  the  old  and  new  quarters ;  the  latter,  on  the 
declivity  of  a  hill,  is  surrounded  by  a  wall,  and 
has  a  citadel.  The  haven,  which  has  ^  handsome 
quay,  alongside  of  which  vessels  lay,  is  command- 
ed, as  well  as  a  part  of  the  road,  by  the  forts  of 
3t  Antonio^and  St  Amaro  y  the  former,  on  a  steep 
rock,  serves  as  a  state  prison.  Opposite  the  town  is 
an  island,  with  a  castle.  Here  is  a  royal  tribunal  of 
commei:ce,  fifty-eight  commercial  hpuses,  and  most 
of  the  trading  nations  have  consuls  here.  The 
first  of  every  month  a  packet  sails  for  the  Cana- 
ries, Porto  Rio,  Cuba,  and  Vera  Cruz ;  and  the 
fifteenth  of  every  second  month  one  sails  for  the 
river  de  la  Plata. 

Port  Santa  Cruz  is  only  fit  fov  fishing  craft ;  it 
is  under  the  mountain  of  Pennaboa,  one  mile  and 
a  half  from  Hercules  tower.  The  next  place  is 
Cayon,  a  fishing  haven  ;  and  then  Malpico,  fitfor 
vessels  of  ten  feet.     The  bays  of  Corme    and 

Q  2  Laxe 


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64  •  MARITIME  GEOGRAPHY. 

Lake  ar^  between  capes  St.  Adrian  and  Villano '; 
they  receive  their  names  from  fishing  villages,  ind 
'afibrd  good  andiorage  and  plenty  of  fresh  water. 
The  harboui*  of  Cumilla  is  only  used  by  fishing 
barks :  it  is  oh  the  north  side  of  cape  Villario. 

Camarina  bayj  on  the  south  side  of  cape  ViUano, 
has  good  anchbrage.  The  town  of  Camarina  is 
t)n  the  north  sh6re,  and  that  of  Mugia,  of  Mon- 
sia,  on  the  south:  the  former  has  a  fishing  pier 
hiaven,  which  dries  at  low  water;  the  bay  is  de- 
fended by  a  fortress  on  a  point. 
^  The  fishing  town  and  pier  haven  of  Finistferre  is 
half  a  league  N.E.  of  the  cape.  The  town  of 
CorcUbion  on  a  bay  farther  east,  and  lihat  of  C€ 
on  the  same  bay,  are  small  places  f  but  the  bay  is 
fit  for  the  largest  ships,  with  thfe  wind  -from  the 
north,  southerly  winds  throwing  a  great  sea  ill 
and  rendering  it  dangerous.  '         •';:,.' 

Miiros  bay  has  good  anchorage.  On  the  Alorth 
ishbre  is  the  town  of  Muros  ;  and  af  the  hiead'  of 
the  bay,  Noya  oh  the  Tambre.  Between  Murbs 
blay  and  the  Rio  de  Roxa  are  the  islands'  Be- 
Bones. 

Rio  de  Roxa,  or  Arosa,  is  a  deep  inlet,  two 
leagues  wide  at  the  entrance,  but  filled  with-rocks. 
The  islands,  Presciras  and  Salvora,  lie  before  it ; 
the  latter  rises  to  a  high  hill.  There  are  several 
fishing  villages  on  this  inlet,  but  no  town* 

PoNTE  Vedra  bay  is  separated  from  the  Ri<x 
de  Roxa  by  a  peninsula,  and  before  its  entrance 
is  the  island  Ons,  three  miles  long  N.  and  S;  With 
a  channel  on  either  side  for  the  largest  ships';  it  i» 

uninhabited^ 


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SPAIN.  85 

uninhabited,  but  bas  two.  springs  of  good  water,  f^-^* 
and  the  people  on  the  main  send  some  horses  to 
graze  on  it.  On  the  south  shore  of  the  bay  is  port 
St  Marino,  and  at  the  head  is  Ponte  Vedra,  an 
agreeable  town  of  2,000  inhabitants,  on  a  hillock, 
washed  by  the  little  river  Vedra.  It  has  a  consi* 
derable  fishery  of  sprats. 

Vigo  Bay  is  separated  from  Ponte  Vedra  by  a 
tongue  of  land :  it  is  two  miles  wide  at  the  en- 
trance, across  which  lie  the  two  isles  of  Bayona, 
sometimes  called  Seyas  de  Bayona  and  Estellas, 
(Imuke  Dies).  The  northernmost  and  largest  is 
three  leagues  long  N.  and  S.;  the  southern  two 
miles.  They  have  fresh  water,  and  pasture  some 
cattle :  the  channel  between  them  is  filled  with 
rocks.  The  town  of  Vigo  is  on  the  south  shore 
of  the  bay,  built  on  a  rock,  surrounded  by  a  wall, 
flanked  by  four  bastions,  and  commanded  by  a 
castle.  Its  population  is  2,500;  but  though  ves- 
sels of  the  largest  size  may  lay  secure  in  any  part 
of  the  bay  up  to^Redondela,  a  league  above  Vigoj 
it  has  little  trade,  exporting  only  some  cured  sprats 
and  tunny  fish. 

The  bay  of  Bayona,  south  of  Vigo  bay,  is  nearly 
crossed  by  a  bank,  on  which  are  two  islets  j  and 
off  Cs^  Fasalis,  the  south  point  of  the  bay,  is  Lobos 
(JVohes)  reef.  Bayona  is  a  fortified  town  and 
castle,  at  the  foot  of  a  high  mountain.  South  of 
the  bay  \&  the  fortified  monastery  of  Oya,  intended 
tp  afford  protection  to  vessels  chased  by  the  Bar- 
bary  pirates.  Guarda,  on  the  Spanish  bank  of 
the  Minbo,  two  miles  within  its  mouth,  is  a  forti- 

o  3  fied. 


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Otlida. 


Andalusia. 


86  MARITIME   GEOGRAPHY. 

Pori  TjNcw.  5ed  town,  with  a  pier  haven  for  smaD  vessels. 
Gayon  is  three  leagues  above  Guarda,  and  two 
leagues  higher  is  Tuy  {Tyde\  a  strong  town  within 
cannon  shot  of  the  Portuguese  fort  of  Valen9a. 
Ayaraonte,  on  the  Spanish  bank  of  the  Guadia- 
na,  is  a  considerable  fishing  town.  Lepe,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Piedra,  receives  small  vessels, 
but  the  access  is  diflBcult.  Taran,  Port  St.  Mi* 
chael  {Menestheus)y  Huelva  {Onoba)  on  the 
Odiel,  and  Palos  on  the  Tinto,  are  of  little 
note,  except  the  latter,  which  derives  an  his- 
torical celebrity  from  being  the  place  of  depar- 
ture  of  Columbus  on  his  first  voyage,  which  pro- 
duced the  discovery  of  America. 

St.  Lucar  de  Barromeda,  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Guadalquivir,  two  or  three  miles  from  its 
mouth,  is  a  small  town  and  the  port  of  Seville. 
Ships  of  fifteen  feet  lay  afloat  before  it  at  aU 
times. 

Seville,  (Hispalis  et  Julia  Romula),  sixteen 
leagues  above  St.  Lucar,  contains  100,000  inha* 
bitants:  it  is  built  on  a  plain,  and  is  surrounded  by 
a  high  wall  flanked  with  166  towers,  all  built  of  a 
cement  which  has  acquired  the  hardness  of  stone* 
The  streets  are  narrow  and  crooked,  but  the  houses 
in  general  well  built.  Before  the  French  invasion 
it  contained  thirty-one  churches,  sixty-eight  mo- 
nasteries and  convents,  and  an  office  of  inquisi- 
tion. Though  its  commerce  is  much  reduced  by 
the  transfer  of  the  colonial  trade  to  Cadiz,  it 
still  exports  to  the  value  of  sixty  millions  of  reals. 
Cadiz  (Gades,  founded  by  the  Phenicians)  is 

tho 


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SPAIN.  87 

the  first  commercial  city  of  Spain,  and  has  from  p^t  ramnn. 
70  to  80,000  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  at  the  Andai;;^^ 
end  of  a  peninsula,  forming  the  north  extremity 
of  the  Isle  of  Leon.  On  the  west  and  south  it  is 
defended  by  nature,  the  shore  being  so  steep, 
lined  with  rocks,  and  furiously  beaten  by  thewaves, 
as  to  render  a  landing  impossible.  Towards  the 
road  on  the  north,  the  depth  of  water  is  not  suffi- 
cient to  allow  its  being  attacked  by  heavy  ship- 
ping, and  on  these  sides  it  is  surrounded  by  a  wall 
flanked  with  bastions.  Its  only  vulnerable  point  is 
therefore,  at  the  isthmus  on  the  east,  and  this  is 
crossed  by  regular  fortifications,  in  which  there  is 
but  one  gate,  and  four  towards  the  water.  Cadiz 
is  the  chief  place  of  one  of  the  maritime  divisions. 
The  naval  arsenal,  called  the  Carracca,  is  situated 
on  the  south  shore  of  the  inner  road  six  miles 
from  the  city.  It  has  three  large  docks  and  twelve 
building  places,  and  employs  5,000  workmen. 
Previous  to  the  latter  wars  with  England,  Cadiz 
had  720  mercantile  houses,  of  which  100  were 
foreign,  viz.  English,  Dutch,  French,  and  German. 
In  1791,  1,010  vessels  entered  ais  follows  i 

Spaniards 339*  Swedes 25 

English 1 80  Ragusans 24 

French II6  Genoese 6 

Portuguese. . . .  10 1  Venetians .......  2 

American 90  Hamburghers. . .  1 

Dutch 80  Imperials 1 

Danes 41  Trieste.* 1 

G  4  The 

•  Of  wbidi  177  were  from  tlie  Colonies.    Id   1801  the  nuinbet  entered 
Irom  the  Colonies  waa  only  twenty. 


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PvrtTdWM* 


88  MARITIME   GE^GRAPHYt 

The  town  of  the  Isle  of  Leon,  two  leagues  east 
of  Cadiz,  has  40,000  inhabitants  ;  and  nearly  ad-^ 
joining  it  has  been  laid  the  foundation  of  the 
town  of  St.  Carlos,  the  plan  of  which  is  perfectly 
tegular,  and  it  is  intended  to  Contain  the  marine 
hospital,  barracks  for  the  workmen,  academy,  &c, 
The  Isle  of  Lepn  (thought  to  be  Tarshish  aiuj 
Tartesstcs)  is  separated  from  the  main  by  the  chan? 
nel  of  St. -Pedro,  three  leagues  in  length,  with 
twenty-four  feet  water,  and  crossed  by  a  bridge. 

Puerto  de  Santa  Mai-ia,  .on  the  Guadalette,  four 
miles  and  a  half  from.  Cadiz,  is  a  well  built  town 
of  12,000  inhabitants.  Vessels  of  nine  feet  enter 
the  river  at  low  water,  Cadiz  having  no  good 
water,  is  supplied  from  hence  by  vessels  construct" 
ed  on  purpose,  and  the  annual  expense  of  which  is 
taid  to  be  near  100,000  piastres. 

Puerto  Real,  oi;i  the  north  shore  of  the  inner 
yoad  of  Cadiz,  has  10,000  inhabitants.  Near  it 
are  extensive  salt-works,  which  afford  21,300,000 
quintals  of  salt  annually. 

Conil,  a  fishing  village  two  leagues  N.W.  of 
Cape  Trafalgar,  faaq  anchorage  before  it  in  ten  tq 
twelve  fethoift. 


C9i^meree.  Wc  find  fcw  historfcal  notices  of  the  commerce 
of  the  northern  provinces  of  Spain  during  the 
early  or  middle  ages,  and  it  was  not  until  the 
fourteenth  century  that  we  knew  of  their  export- 
ing their  wool  to  the  North. 
The  exports  of  these  provinces  are  confined  to 

the 


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SPAIN.        '  89 

the  productions  of  the  mines  and  soil,  viz.  iron, 
wool,  chestnuts  of  Biscay,  and  filberts  of  Astu- 
rias ;  Galicia  having  nothing  to  export  hut  a 
graall  quantity  of  anchovies,  which  are  taken  from 
Vigo,  Ferrol,  and  Corunna,  The  iron  goes  from 
the  ports  of  Biscay  principally  to  England.  The 
wool  is  collected  at  Burgos,  and  thence  transferred 
to  the  ports  of  Biscay,  from  whence  it  is  sent 
chiefly  to  England,  Holland,  and  France,  to  the 
stmcunt  of  80,000  quintals.  The  value  of  the 
chestnuts  and  filberts  sent  to  England  and  the 
North  is  only  400,000  reals. 

The  imports  to  tiiese  provinces  (chiefly  from 
England,  Holland,  and  France)  are  fine  woollens 
and  linens^  hardware,,  salt  butter,  salted  cod,  aiid 
fish  oil.  The  ports  thM  have  a  direct  foreign  trade 
are  St.  Sebastian,  St.  Andero,  Laredo  and  Bilbao» 
Luarca  and  Cudillera,  Corunna  aijd  Vigo. 

Biscay  proper,  with  respect  to  its  commercial 
privileges  retained  from  ancient  times,  forms  a 
kind  of  separate  state  from  the  rest  of  Spain,  pay-* 
ing  no  duties  on  exports  or  imports,  and  conse- 
quently having  neither  custom-houses  nor  custom- 
house officers.  The  frontiers  are,  however,  strictly 
watched,  to  prevent  the  clandestine  introduction  of 
merchandize  through  this  province  into  the  others. 
In  coBsectuence  of  this  exemption  from  duties, 
which  the  Biscayens  are  obstinate  in  preserving, 
they  are  prdiibited  the  commerce  with  America. 

Spain  had  formerly  very  considerable  fisheries 
on  the  coasts  of  the  ocean,  a  million  of  persons, 
jitc^cording  to  Spapish  writers^  being  at  one  period 

employed 


Fkhtritt. 


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fukerim^ 


90  MARITIME   GEOGRAPHY. 

employed  in  this  branch  of  industry.     They  have, 
however,  been  long  reduced  to  insignificance,  for 
though  the  fish  still  continue  to  visit  these  coasts 
in  such  abundance  tliat  it  is  often  sold  by  cart- 
loads for  a  mere  trifle,    industry  and  capital  are 
both  wanting  to  elevate  the  fishery  as  an  object  of 
national  riches.     The   import  of  salt  cod  from 
England  is  estimated  (for  the  whole  of  Spain)  at 
three  millions  of  duros  ;     the  Newfoundland  cod 
being  preferred  to  the  Norwegian,  and  the  attempts 
made  to  substitute  the  fish  taken  on  the  coasts  of 
Biscay  and  Asturias  have  been  without  success. 
The  rivers  of  these  coasts  are  also  so  abundant  in 
salmon,  that  in  the  Urumea  in  particular  it  is  sold 
for  four  quartos,  or  three  farthings,  the  pound. 
Spain  has  long  ceased  to  have  any  foreign  fisheries, 
and  those  of  the  Mediterranean  are  noticed  in  the 
sequel. 
^'•^y-  In  the  fourteenth  century  the  Spanish  marine^ 

both  with  respect  to  war^and  navigation,  held  the 
first  place  in  Europe,  and  the  names  of  Columbus^ 
Magellan,  and  Mendana  will  live  for  ever  in  the 
page  of  history  with  that  of  our  immortal  Cook  j 
but  the  naval  glory  of  Spain  disappeared  with  her 
immceable  arniada^  and  under  the  three  first 
Phillips  and  the  second  Charles,  she  had  neither 
ships  nor  seamen.  During  tlie  war  of  the  Succes- 
sion a  transient  activity  was  observed  in  naval  af-" 
fairs;  and  in  the  two  last  reigns,  considerable 
efibrts  have  been  made  to  revive  the  military  ma- 
rine.  At  the  conclusion  of  the  war  of  176I,  the 
fleet  consisted  of  tliirty*seven  ships  of  the  line 

and 


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SPAIN.  91  ^ 

and  thirty  frigates.  In  1770,  fifty-one  of  the  line 
from  112  to  58  guns,  twenty-two  frigates,  and 
twenty-nine  lesser  vessels.  In  1774'>  sixty-four  of 
the  line,  of  which  eight  were  three-deckers,  twen- 
ty-six frigates,  and  twenty-seven  smaller  vessels. 
In  1778,  sixty-seven  of  the  linfe,  thirty-two  fri- 
gates, and  sixty-two  small  vessels.  At  tihe  end  of 
1793,  the  numbers  were, 

70  Ships  of  the  line,  from  1 12  to  54  guns. 

46  Frigates 42...  18 

'3  Sloops 20...  18 

IG  Xebecs    36...  14' 

13  Bilanders 20 ...  10 

28  Brigantines 24 ...  10 

12  Ourques 40 ... 20 

4  Gallies 3 

4  Galliots 3 

3  Bombs 10 

'  8  Packets 
7  Schooners 
2  Fire-ships 

216 

The  number  of  sea  officers  in  the  year  1798 
was 

2  Captains-Generals  or  Admirals 
24  Lieutenants-Generals  or  Vice- Admirals 
41  Commanders  of  Divisions  or  Rear- Admirals 
52  Brigadiers  or  Commodores 
118  Captains  of  ships  of  the  line 
J75  Captains  of  frigates 
951  Lieutenants  of  ships  of  the  line 

232  Lieu- 


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93  MARITIME   GEOGRAFHT. 

^      '      233  Lieutenants  of  frigates 

231  Alferez  (ensigns)  of  ships  of  the  line 
304  Alferez  of  frigs^tes 
808  Cadets  or  Midshipmen 

1,739 

All  the  subordinate  officers  rise  to  the  rank  of 
captains  of  ships  of  the  line  by  seniority,    as  well 
as  merit  and  interest.     There  is  also   a  corps  of 
pilots  having  rank  as  officers.     It  is  composed  of 
four  classes,,  chief  pilots,  second  pilots,    coasting 
and  harbour  pilots.    The  chief  pilots  are  divided 
into  two  classes,  and  seem  to  answer  to  masters 
in  the  English  navy,  the  second  pilots  to  second- 
masters  and  masters'- mates.    This  corps  has  a  par- 
ticular commandant  at  Cadiz. — Its  number  in  1798 
was  464. 

Attached  to  t|ie  marine  are  also  corps  of  engi- 
neers, artillery,  and  infantry.  The  corps  of  en- 
gineers consists  of  forty  officers.  Its  chief  has 
the  rank  of  a  flag  officer,  and  the  others  rank  with 
the  sea  officers  according  to  their  classes.  The 
artillery  is  composed  of  sixteen  brigades,  viz.  six 
^t  Cadiz,  six  at  Ferrol,  and  four  at  Carthagena, 
at  each  of  which  ports  it  has  a  resident  staff.  The 
strength  of  this  corps  in  1797  was  2,611.  The 
infantry  or  troops  of  the  marine  consists  of  twelve 
)»ttalions,  four  at  each  royal  port :  its  strength 
12,384. 

The  seameix  for  the  fleet  are  raised  by  inscrip- 
tion in  classes.  55  to  60,000  are  registered,  but  of 
which  not  ^bove  40,000  could  be  levied. 

The 


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'  SPAIN.  93 

The  civil  administration  of  the  marine  answer-     ^ 
ing  to  the  English  Na\y  Board,    is  stationary  at 
Madrid.     It  consists  of  an  inspector  general,  usu-  . 
ally  a  flag  officer^  three  indentaats,    viz.   one  for 
each  royal  port,  always  a  flag  officer,  a  chief  con- 
tador  for  each  of  the  ports,  who  has  the  victual- 
ling department,  afad  two  treasurers  or  paynutsters     .^   - 
at  each  port.      The  subordinate  officers,  d|erk%    • 
&c.  in  this  department,  make  the  whde  nuiabor 
amount  to  upwards  of  500  peiSQns^ 

The  priiicipal  civil  officers  of  each  port.  nx6  A 
chief  engineer,  who  iMperilit^tids  the  works  cirryu 
jtngon  in  the  dockryairdsV  and  a  commandant 
charged  with  ^eir  police.  The  total  number  of 
persons  ptxi^oytd  in  ^  three  naval  r  arsenafai  ex- 
ceeds  ^,0(X>, 'fecItidiBg  4  to  ^,^  g$Iky  slav«t 
lemployieid^a^  Is^burers.  £aeh  ardenal  has  a  naval 
hospital  and  a  marine  aca!d!ifemy« 

Hie  materials  for  her  nai^  wliich  Spain  p^siessM 
at  home  are  oak  timber,  iron,  and  hemp ;  the  lat- 
ter, which  Vas  formerly  procured  from  the  Nordi» 
being  now  ftimished  by  Grenada^  Arragon;  and 
NaVarre,  and  of  it  the  fcordage  and  sadtchith  is 
made.  A  great  quatitity  of  cordage  is  also  made 
of  the  Esparto  rush  :  the  cables  of  this  substance 
having  the  property  of  floating,  are  pecotiarly 
adapted  for  anchoring  ov^r  a  rocky  bottom.  The 
copper  of  Mexico  and  Peru  is  used  for  sheathing 
the  Spanish  ships.  A  number  of  ships  are  also  built 
at  the  Havannah  of  the  cedar  of  the^Jountry. 


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PORTUGAL. 


The  coast  of  Portugal,  aai  far  as  Peniche,  is  for 
<he  most  part  low  near  the  sea,  but  lined  by  a 
ridge  of  anountains  a  few  leagues  inland.  From 
Peniche  the  shore  is  moderately  high,  with  high 
inland  mpuntains.  The  principal  noted  points 
«re  GoWen  Mountain,  a  little  north  of  Viana,  and 
Cape  Mondego,  moderately  high,  north  of  the  river 
of  the  same  name. 

Peniche,  called  the  Gibraltar  of  Portugal, 
is  a  peninsular  mountain^  stretching  into  thq 
sea,  the  extreme  point  of  which  is  Oj^e  Car- 
bocira.  Four  leagues  and  half  west  of  it  are  the 
Barlingas,  a  group  of  islets  and  rocks,  occupying 
a  space  of  two  leagues  and  half.  Some,  of  i;hem 
are  inhabited,  and  on  the  largest  is  the  fort;  of  Stl 
Janao :  there  is  also  a  good  road  under  this  castle» 
Between  tlie  islands  and  mam  is  a  channel,  with 
twenty-five  fathoms.  Lake  Obidos,  north  of 
Peniche,  is  a  lagoon  two  miles  long,  communi- 
citing  with  the  sea  by  a  narrow  gut,  sometimes 
choaked  with  sand  :    it  abounds  with  fish. 

The  Mountain  of  Cintra  is  a  vast  assemblage 
of  large  rocks,  with  an  ascent  only  on  the  east 
side  to  its  summit,  which  Is  3,000  feet  high,  and 
where  is  a  convent  of  Hyeronomite  Monks,  ap- 
pearing to  overhang  the  sea,  the  chapel  to  which 

occupies 


Digitized  ^CiOOQIC 


1»0RTUGAX.  &d 

DCtiipies  the  site  of  a  Roman  temple  of  Luna, 
whence  this  rock  received  the  name  of  Promon^  HeJu^d.. 
torium  Luncej  it  was  also  antiently  called  Htema  j 
on  its  sides  a  little  brush-wood  only  is  seen  in  the 
crevices  of  the  rocks.  Two  leagues  farther  south 
18  CapeRoxtntj  Roca^  or  the  Rock  of  Lisbon,  the 
western  point  of  Europe,  and  the  north  Hmit  of 
tlie  bay  of  Lisbon.  On  its  summit,  which  equals 
in  height  that  of  Cintra,  is  a  kind  of  hermitage 
in  tfie  rock,  called  the  Cork  Convent,  from  its 
inside  being  covered  with  cork  to  obviate  the  in- 
convenience of  its  dampness.  Lower  down  is  a 
piece  of  water,  which  fertilizfes  the  little  gardens  (rf 
the  Fraiicfscans,  who  inhabit  this  natural  her- 
mitage. 

'  Cape  Espichel,  the  south  point  of  the  bay  of 
iLjiabon,  called  St.  Ube's  Hook  by  English  seamen 
(^BarbariiiOn  Prom.)  is.  a  level  platform  of  naked 
granite,  terminating  the  lofty  Sierra  de  Arabida. 
On  it  is  a  light  tower  and  chape),  and  between  it 
sBod  the'  entrance  of  the  Tagus  is  the  Albu^ra, 
a  iagoan  that  dries  in  some  summers.  Cape 
Sines  is  a  projecting  point  between  Capes  Es- 
pichel and  St.  Vincent.  Nine  leagues  south  of  the 
former  are  the  two  remarkable  hills,  called  the  Blue 
Mountains  by  English  seamen  ;  and  ten  leagues 
west  of  Cape  St.  Vincent  commences  the  high 
Sierra  de  Mohchique,  which  encloses  the  province 
of  AJgarve*  on  the  north,  and  terminates  at  Cape 
St.  Vincent. . 

Cape 

*  Alprr*  is  an  Ai-abit:  word,  sijpiif)  lug  corner. 


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96  MARITDffi   OEOGBAFHY. 

Cape  St.  'Vincent  {Sacrum  Prom.)  the  S.W. 
g^  landf.  p(Hnt  of  Portugal,  is  a  mass  of  naked  lime-stone, 
rising  perpendicularly  in  cliffs  eighty  feet  high, 
on  whose  summit  is  a  fortified  monastery  ;  and  off 
it,  at  the  distance  of  100  fathoms,  a  high  rock^ 
within  which,  it  is  said,  vessels  have  ran  when 
chased  by  the  B^bary  cruizers.  Off  this  capQ 
was  gained  the  naval  victory  by  Sir  John  Jarvis, 
over  the  French  and  Spanish  combined  fleets. 

From  Cape  St.  Vincent  to  Cape  St.  Maria, 
the  shore  is  generally  low,  with  a  sandy  beach  of 
easy  access,  but  &e  high  ridge  of  Monchique  is 
«een  ten  to  fifteen  leagues  inland.  Cape  St 
Mary  (Ouneum  Prom.)  is  on  the  island  Caes,  b^ 
parated  from  the  main  by  a  boat  channel,  ^ome 
Qther  islands  are  in  the  same  group,  oh  one  of 
which  is  Ihe  Fort  of  St.  Lorenzo,  and  the  village 
of  Figueira.  Within  them,  on  the  main^  is  the  ite^ 
markable  peaked  hill  of  Figo,  rma^  from  the 
low  land. 
jB^.  Though  Portugal  is  extremely  well  watei^edy 

she  has  no  river  above  the  fourtli  classy  nevec* 
theless  they  are  of  great  utility  in  fitdUtatirig 
internal  communications,  and  diereby  reiuler  arti- 
ficia!  inland  navigation  unnecessary; 

Binert.  Einpties  itself  at,        Bhert,  Emptiei  Hgeff  at. 

Mioho^  for  which  see  Spain 

Lima , . .  Viana 

Neyra Castle  Negoa 

Cavado Esponende 

Bave Villa  Cond^ 

^  Douro Oporto 


Vouga Aveirft 

Mondego Buarca 


Leyra Parades. 

Alcoa Pademeira 

Silis Salir 

Tagos Lisbon 

Sadao      Setuval 

Adcra 

Odemka ^UaNotade 

Bliifontes 


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IHwen.  JSa^tUi  ftnVt 

Quarters 

SequaorGhilaon..,.   Tavira 
Val  Ffennosa Faro 


Biveri.  BmpHu  iiiiffat, 

Guadiano  (sea  Spain)    Castro 
Marino 


The  DouAO  and  the  TAotJd  alonb  are  worthy  tff 
detailed  notice^  The  former  {Dwrhis)  rides  in  tht 
province  of  Old  Castile,  and  has  a  course  of  QSd 
miles*  Its  mouth  is  crossed  by  a  bar,  with  bui 
eighteen  feet  at  half  tide.  In  winter,  when  it  is 
swollen  by  the  torrents  firom  the  mountains,  the 
ciurrent  is  so  strong,  that  the  strongest  caUes  are 
ihsuflicient  to  hdid  vessels  in  the  streaiti^  ahd  at 
these  times  the  surf  on  the  bar  is  so  violent,  tiiat 
.  ships  are  .often  obliged  to  wait  three  wteks  for  an 
opportunity  to  cross  it.  In  the  entrance  are  also 
several  sunken  rock%  round  which  lite  sand  ac- 
cumulates and  forms  banks  that  increase  eveiy 
year.  The  £nglish  mercfaatits  interested  in  the 
trade  of  Oporto,  olBfered  to  clear  the  chaniMl  Irf' 
blowing  up  the  roeks,  but  the  offer  was  refused^ 
on  the  idea  that  they  were  the  best  securiiief 
against  the  descents  of  the  Barbary  pirates.  Hitf 
river  is  navigaUe  fcfr  craft  twelve  leagues  above 
Oporto. 

The  Taous  (Tajd)j  antien^  celebrated  for  ita 
golden  sands,  has  its  i^rce  tA  New  Castile,  and 
after  a  course  of  500  miles,  empties  itself  int)d  the 
bay  of  Lisbon*  Its  entrance  is  at  times  dangerous 
by  several  bank^ :  the  principal,  Os  Cach<^>os^ 
Mes  nearly  in  tibe  middle  of  the  entrance }  another 
baak  Mes  to  the  north  of  this,  with  only  a  boat 
channel,  named  the  Corridore,  betweeen  it  and 

VOL.  II.  H  the 


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PurtTm 


9&  MA&millB  GEOGBAPHT. 

the  north  shore.  The  channel  between  the  two 
banks  is  called  the  Carrick  Deep,  and  is  crossed 
by  a  dangerous  bar,  called  the  Bar  of  Lisbon : 
there  is  no  passage  between  the  banks  and  the 
Amth  shore.  The  Tagus  is  navigable  sixteen 
leagues  above  Lisbon,  and  might  easily  be  made 
so  ten  leagues  farther,  to  Alcantara,  on  the 
frontiers  of  Spain. 


Portugal  possesses  two  seaports  of  the  first 
consideration,  and  five  which  may  be  considered 
in  the  second  class.  The  first  are  Lisbon  and 
C^rto  ;  the  second,  Setuval,  Faro,  Viana, 
Aveira,  and  Tavira. 

Lisbon,  the  antient  Olmppa  and  Felicitas  JiUiOf 
deservedly  acquired  the  name  of  Happy  from  tiie 
beauty  and  salubrity  of  its  climate,  fi^r  it  is  found  to 
have  i200  fine  days,  and  but  eighty  rainy  days  in  the 
year.  It  is  in  the  province  of  £stramadura,*i 
and  situated  on  seven  hills^  rising  from  the  north^ 
bank  of  the  Tagus,  three  leagues  within  the  bar«: 
It  may  be  divided  into  the  Old  and  New  town, 
the  latter  being  that  part  rebuilt  since  the  terrible 
earthquake  of  1755.  This  part  is  neat  and  re- 
gular, and  its  streets  have  footways  on  each  side 
and  sewers.  In  the  old  part  the  streets  are  sa 
narrow  and  the  houses  so  high,  that  the  sun  never 
shines  on  the  pavement,  except  when  passiqg  the 
meridian^  It  is  surrounded  by  walls  flanked  with 
,  tower% 

•JSxtreuia  DuriL  '  ' 


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t»ORTUGAt.  '  99 

towers,  and  hwk  small  citadel  neatly  iti  the  ^^'^•^ 
center  of  the  city.  As  it  has  most  to  dread  ait 
attack  by  shipping,  the  banks  of  the  river  on  both 
sides  are  lined  with  forts.  The  first  met  with  at 
entering  is  Fort  Lorenzo,  or  the  Tower  of  Bugio, 
on  a  sand-bank,  which  serves  as  a  prison  for  thd 
convicts  sentenced  to  be  traris^rted'  to  Angcrk 
or  Goa.  Fort  St.  Julian  is  on  a  rock  on  the  north 
shore  of  the  entrance,  and  Fort  St.  Aiitonio  on 
the  south.  The  population  of  Lisbon  is  from 
180  to  200,000  sods.  It  is  one  of  the  most  com^ 
mercial  cities  of  Europe,  having  200  mercantile 
houses,  of  which  150  are  English,  and  its  trade 
employs  between  1,000  and  1,500  vdssels  innuallyi 
In  1790  there  cleared  out  967 :  viz.  English,  319; 
Portuguese,  252  ;  North  Americans,  75 ;  and 
321  <^  all  other  nations.  In  1797  the  numbers 
entered  and  cleared  out  were 


Entered. 

sailed. 

Entered; 

Sailed. 

•English    ...  ,533 

.466 

Genome.  .•.   9 

18 

Portiiguese,..  sob. 

309 

Lubeck  ••••9 

10 

Danes......   218 

"229 

Morocco    ..9 

2 

Americans  . .  154 

161 

Oldenburg..    6 

8 

Prussians ...      80 

86 

Neapolitans     4 

8 

Hamburgers    'A3 

43 

Spaniards  ; .   3 

4 

Bagusians....   29 

.■  i  23 

Pappenbuig     2 

2 

Venetiam    . .   19 

'24 

.French  •....'  1 

1 

Bremeners  ...   10 

11 « 

Ino^eridl.  • . .   1 

1 

Total  1,4231,416 
Besides,  in  the  same  year,  there  entered  Lisbon, 


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\ 

100  MARITpa  GBOOEAPHT. 

jwij2«t.   ^  ships  of  wmr,  l^ngUsh  23«,  ft)rtugue»e  61, 
American  1. 

Opoetq  {(ktkOf  tb^  second  dty  of*  Fortugal  m 
popu)«ti0B  wA  commerce,  is  in  the  province  of 
fintqi  Hiqho  y  Douro,  and  on  the  north  side  of 
tb^  DourOy  SQven  leeguQs  from  the  sea.  It  is  built 
OP  ih^  ^c,  aod  at  the  foot  of  a  steep  rocky  hill, 
W  tJiat  sow?  pf  the  streets  are  extremely  xstoep, 
ASd  muny  of  them  very  narrow.  Its  papulation 
W  ^,000t  Tlie  city  is  open,  but  the  approach  by 
the  river  is  defended  by  ^veral  batteries  and  forts. 
Ships  drawing  sixteen  feet  go  up  to  the  town,  and 
eitt^r  anchor  in  the  streftm»  or  lay  alongside  a 
quay*  Its  commerce  may  be  judged  oS  by  the 
nnmber  of  vessels  it  employed  in  1796. 

Enteredw    Sailed  Enter^.    Sailed. 

English 88  99  Americans. ...  10  6 

Danes 51  —  Lubeckers. .  • .   4  4 

Hamburgers      36  34        Bremen 2  — ^ 

Portuguese   ..35  42  Spaniards  ....    2  2 

Swedes 32  29  Pkppenhurg  . .   1  1 

Prussians  •  • . .  27  26  *— ^  — • 

Total. .  288  268 

Setuyal,  in  the  province  of  Eatramadura, 
called  by  the  English  St.  Ubes,  and  by  other  &- 
reigneiB  St.  Yves,  is  the  third  <^mimercial  city  of 
Portugal.  It  has  12,000  Inhabitants.  The  streets 
we  narrow,  the  houses  small  and  ill-built.  The 
entrance  to  the  port  is  through  a  large  bay, 
and  is  encumbered  with  sand-banks,  leaving 
but  one  narrow  channel  for  ships,    with  three 

fathoms 


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fMhomB  and  ft  half  at  half  tida  Tha  ap-  ^2^ 
proachto  the  town  by  the  sea  b  deftsidad  by  tha 
tower  of  Oatoa»  in  a  ravine,  near  wfaidb  it  a  Ugbt^ 
house,  and  by  Fort  St.  Philip,  one  mile  below  the 
town.  It  has  fifteen  mercantile  homes.  Itsexpoit 
(besides  some  wine  and  orange)  is  prind^[i*Uy 
sdt,  from  the  salt'WOfks  on  the  river  Sadao*  in  the 
nei|^bbom*hoQd,  which  ia  chiefly  talen  dff  by  ibt 
Swedes  and  Danes  for  their  isharies^  The  en* 
tries  and  clearances  of  vessehr  in  1796^  we»a : 

Entered.     SaOed.  Entered.    Sailed. 

Swedes 177  17S  Lnbeckers  .•  S  7 

Danes 145  147  Oldenburg  . .  8  6 

N.  Americans  71  7^  Pappenburg     6  S 

Prussians....   68  68  Bremeners  •»  4  3 

English    ....   46  45  Ragusans    ..  ^  ^ 

Portuguese  •  •    13  19  Spaniard^.  • . .  1  -^ 

Hamburgers      10  6                         —  .~ 

Total. 56d  5^1 

Faro  (Ossobona)^  on  the  rWer  Var-fertttosa, 
^rffltin  the  feland  <rf  Ca]pd  Satita  Maria,  in*  the*  |>ro. 
Tiiice  cff  Algarve,  is  a  wdll-built  t^'mi  of  from  six 
to  7,00a  inhabitants.  Vesseb  of  ^i^t^feh  feet  cat! 
enter  ilTe  rivet  at  higfc  wat^r,  hit  cdittldt  a;ppfo^c<i 
the  town  nearer  than  t\W  leagues.  l*he  town  itself 
is  open,  but  is  protected  by  a  casde.  It  exports 
'Wine,  sprats,  figs,  oranges,  and  tunny  fish. 

H  3  VUNA, 

•  The  name  •f  tbto  nrer  Is  gritty  corrupted  in  moit  maps  and  geogra- 
phical works.  Sador,  Zadaon,  CadaoD>  Cadao,  Caldaon,  Caldas.  It  U 
the  aodent  Calipos. 


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JUfA  ^NfHfc' 


102  MARITIME  OXOORAPHY. 

~  ViANA,  ourthe  north  shore  of  an  inlet,  or  river 
Lima  {Le&e\  four  leagues  south  of  the  ekitrance 
of  the  Minho,  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  a  steep 
mountain,  well  built,  and  has  7,000  inhabitants* 
The  entrance  of  the  inlet  is  crossed  by  a  bar,  with 
but  twelve  feet  at  high  water ;  and  from  the  north 
point  a  bank  of  rocks  extends  nearly  half  way 
across.  On  the  south  point  are  two  light-houses. 
Large  vessels  are  obliged  to  lay  out  in  the  roads, 
entirely  exposed  to  the-  sea,  but  protected  firom  at- 
tack by  a  strong  castle. 

AvEjEO,  in  the.  province  of  Beira,  is  situated 
among  salt  marshes.  It  has  7,000  inhabitants,  but 
its  commerce  is  inconsiderable,  smalt  barks  only 
being  able  to  approach  the  town,  on  account  o^  a 
dangerous  bar  which  crosses  the  moiith  of  :th^  in- 
let in  which  It  is  situated.*  It,,  however,  exports 
a  considerable  quantity  o^  salt,  but  of  m  inferior 
quality  to  that  q£  Setuval,  and  has  besides  a  pro- 
ductive sardine  fishery. 

Tavira.  (Baha)  in  Algarve,  on  the  river  Ghi- 
laon,  a  league  from  its  mouth,  can  only  receive 
small  craft  with  the  tide. .  .1^  is  a  neat  well-built 
town  of  7>000  inhabitants,  surrounded  by  an  old 
wall,  outside  of  which  is  a  suburb ;  the  entrance 
.  of  the  river  is  defended  by  a  small  fort.    , 

The  other  ports  of  Portugal  have  lit^e  to  ren- 
.    .       -     '  '  der 


•  The  bay,  or  inlet,  of  Aveira,  is  formed  by  a  long  sandy  neck  of  land, 
parallel  to  the  main,  on  the  north,  and  another  on  tlie  south,  which  inclose 
a  large  basin,  but  filled  with  shoals  and  islands.  On  the  bar  is  biiX  twelre 
feet  at  half  tide. 


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der  them  wortiiy  of  particular  notice,  we  shall  ^•»^«J5f«- 
therefore  confine  ourselves  to  pointmg  out  their 
fituations* 

Caminha,  afortified  town  on  the  left,  or  Porta-  J'SSJS?'''* 
gaese  bank  of  the  Minho,   opposite  Guafda ;  its 
situation  is  denoted  by  a  high  steep  hill  to  the 
north,  the  top  of  which  makes  in  a  saddle.    Espi^ 
sende,  a  large  village,  on  the  north  bank  of  tht 
.Cavad6,  .which  admits  vessels  of  nine  or  ten.  £eet 
at  hd^  wttter,  over  a  bar,  by  a  shifting  channd. 
PaoD,  aiarge  village,  opposite  Esposende,  before 
which  «re  the  CavaDos  de  Faons,   two  ledger  of 
breakcxs,  two  mites  aS  shore.    Villa  de  Cond^ 
on  the '  right  bank  of  the  Dave,  before  the  mouth 
of  which  are  many  rodks,  and  it  is  also  crossed  by 
a  bar,  with  but  ten  or  <t wdve  feet  at  high  water ; 
butvess^s  that  can  go  over  it  lay  always^  afloiett 
¥dthin.    Metelyne,  a  vijdage  on  a  cove,   before 
which  are  the  Lechones,  a  ridge  ef  rocks  above 
water,  half  a  league  north  of  the  entrance  of  the 
Douro;  there  is  a  passage,  with  eight  fathoms, 
between  them  and  the  main,  and  half  a  league 
S.W.  of  their  southern  extremity  is  a  dangerous 
sunken  rock.    St.  Juan  de  Foz,  on  the  north  sidtt 
of  the  entrance  of  the  Douro,  a  considerable  town 
and  fort»  commanding  the  mouth  of  the  river. 

Varhino,  on  the  shore  of  the  bay  of  Aveiro,  has  Bdnu 
4,000  inhabitants.    Buarcas,  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Mondego^  which  admits  vessels  of  twelve  feet 
at  high  water  over  a  shifting  bar. 

Parades^  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Leyra;  oppor  Etti«Mdaim. 
site  whichf  on  the  left  bank,  is  Passage.    Pader- 

H  4  neira. 


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19*  MARinm  0«001APHT. 

^JSS^  netro,  <m  the  Berth  liAiik  of  the  Akot:  heresmaU 
men  of  war  are  built,  and  sent  to  Lisbon  to  be 
equipped.    Alcpbaza,   St  Martin,  on  the  north, 
mdi  SaUr  de  Porto,  oa  the  south  bank  of  the  Sylis, 
which  admits  vessels  of  ei^t  or  nine  feet.     Porto 
Cambia,  on  the  north  side  of  Peniche.     Penidie, 
a  town  and  castle,  on  the  aoutii  side  of  the  peniai^ 
wla.    ]M^ceira,  cm  the  north  hank  of  the  Man« 
gioki.     Cintra,   a  handsome  viUj^e,  five  leagues. 
£r<mi  Lisbon,  where  tha  ncdbility  of  ^  capital 
have  thdr  country  seats*    Colores,  a  nsiall  town 
at  the  foot  of  a  mountain,  dose  to  the  sea;  it  is 
eelebrated  fiur  its.ordmrd%  diesnut  woods,  and 
ejccettent  wine.   Caseaes,  in  the  bay  of  Lisbon, 
ftak  of  Cape  Roxent,  is  a  castle  and  viUage^ 

Yaleiiay  three  mileaeast  of  Cape  EspicheL  Ce* 
aimhra»  a  laige  fishing  village  <m  a  cove,  before 
whidi  i9  good  andior^e,  within  protection  c^  an 
old  castle  on  a  UlL  Arabida,  a  similar  village^ 
with  anchorage  within  a  bank,  sheltered  from  ali 
winds  but  souths  Tror^a,  on  the  south  bank  of 
the  Sada(v  is  a  gmaU  viUage,  built  amidst  the 
luiiis  of  a  AfoofiLsh  city,  said  ott  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Cai^ttiffa^  a  Roman  coloay.,  Cottporta, 
0n  a  branch  of  the  same  river,  receives  small  oraft 
with  the  tide.  St.  Yago  de  Cacem,  on  tlie  n«rth 
flhoi^e  of  the  lagoon  of  Fenu  Sines,  a  small  town 
at  the  moqth  of  a  little  river,  which  only  admits 
boats;  before  it  are  ^e  Perceveira rocks^  Villa 
Nova  de  Milfontes,  on  the  li^t  bank  oi  the  Ode* 
foira.  Serdao,  inabaycaUedlaRefbra. 
3ajBp:eS|  a  village  an4  fortress  four  miles  east  of 

Cape 


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Cip9  9t  Vittfimtt  ritiM»t«d  Oft  9ipmk ^hmA  be*  p^r^^mm: 
twoen  two  cioves.  vfith  good  «iQborag«#.  irndtdiol^  ^^^ 
ter  in  each  according  to  the  wind.  It  d$mal 
Miqe  his^oriqal  cdebtity  firom  heio;  ^  i^sidbadce 
of  Prince  UG^ryy  the  p^QO  »nd  ficvt  pfomotet 
pf  th^  PoitMgUQoe  voy^gm  of  discovery^  I^tgos 
(i^<rc«i^?^aX  1^  tewi  q£  4^000  iahahita&ts»  oa  an 
cwttBetice,  swrottdded  by  old  walk,  has  a.  Utde 
hf^yti^  fof^aaiall  cmft  of  ei^t  ex  ninefeet,  at  die 
mouth  of  a  river*  ViUa  Nova  de  Borto.  Mao 
(ffmmiia^  P(nim\  a  town  of  SQO  faous^  sar^ 
Itmnded  by  a  hi^  waU,  two  mites,  from  the 
XQCMth  of  a  liver^  which  is  cnssed  by  abar,  witk 
oighteQn  feeit  at  faq^  water  and  ten  at  low.  AU 
bufeixa,  a  considoable  town  on  ^  shore»  wttha 
fwU  Vi|l«  Beab  de  St.  Antonio,  a  new  and 
handscHne  town  at  the  mouth  of  the  Guadkna,  but 
with  lew  peofdek  Caetm  Manno,  en  tbe  same 
rivMV  »  a  somD  fidiing  toiwn^  wkh  a  castle  ori  a 
btlL  . 


Before  tbe  discovery  e£  ibe  Cape  ci  Good  «^^- 
Hope,  the  Portuguese  contented  themselves  wift 
^lesr  indigenous  prodoctione,  without  seehin^  fer 
ibreigii  hutuies^  and  many  of  l^e  other  'najfons 
of  Europe  had  made  considerable  progress  in 
maritime  commerce  while  Portugal  was  still  sunk 
in  ignorance  and  barbarism.  Even  at  the  present 
time,  though,  the  kingdom  afibrda  a  variety  of 
vahiaWe  objects  to  aliment  an  extensive  foreign 
cemmercesi  the;  national  iodolQuee^  is  such  that  this 
commerce  is  almost  entirely  passive,  the  Portu- 
guese 


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106  MARITIME  OEOGRAPHT. 

goese  mercbMt  uftidne  employed  in  it  before  die 
neceot  waft5,  not  exceeding  100  vesnels  of  any 
ittndeo. 

.  The  principal  commercial  proditetions  of  Por- 
taigal,  are  wines^  wool,  oil,  fruits,  salt,  coii,  ^&c. 
besides  which  she  exports  the  produce  of  her  co^ 
lonies.  From  Spain  she  receives  the  iron  of  Bk* 
cay ;  from  France,  lii^ns  of  Britaiiy,  silks,  cam- 
bticks,  fine  woollens,  laces,  leather,  hardware,  jewl 
ellery,v  watches,  stationary,  mercery, ^looking* 
glassy,  fire-arms,  nails,  &c.*  f^rom  Hdlland,  corn« 
cheeae,  and  coloora.  From  Gen)aany,t  corn,  \m&A^ 
wdvipon  manufiictuves.  From  the  Danish  .cU>mi- 
nions, .  com  and  timber.  From/S^lreden,  corn^ 
iron,  steel,  copper^  pitch,  and  taii  From  Russia, 
ixvrn,  hemp,  flax,  sail<^doth,  timber,  pitch,  tar^ 
tallow,  and  furs4  *  r  '    . 

*  The  chief  trade  of  Portugal  is,  however,  engf  oss- 
Cfd  by  the  EngUah,  and  is  founded  on  the  ba^is  of 
mutual  advantage.  By  the  treaty  of  commerce 
concluded  in  1703,  it  was  agreed  that  the  woollen 
nmnO&cturea  of  Great^Britam  should  be  admit- 
^  into  Porti^al  on  payment  of  two-thirda  only 
of  the  duties  paid  by  those  of  France.  This 
treaty,  though  evidently  advantageous  to  Portugal, 

who 


•  In  1787,  Portugal  e^pcNted  to  France  for  the -value  of  ten  milUons  of 
livTes,  and  imported  from  thence  for  fonr  millions  only. 

t  In  1787,  thitty-seven  vessels,  of  which  only  two  were  Portugnese, 
exported  from  Portugal  to  Hambung,  for  five  millions  and  a  half  of 
francs. 

•  X  I>^  yy^i  twelve  vessels  imported  from  Petersburg  into  Portngal,  for 
223,195  ruUes. 


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Who  could  not  otherwise  find  a  market  for  har 
^nes,  the  chief  of  her  productions,  was  Mifi  niore 
so  to  Bngland,  for  1^  wines  and  other  produce 
-of  Portugal  not  being  si^Scient  to  balance  the  im- 
ports of  woollens,  &c.  ftom  England,  the  defi- 
ciency was  paid  in  the  prcteioild  metals.  In  I776, 
the  trade  of  Great-Britain  to  Portugal  exceed- 
ed the  aggregate  of  all  oth<er  imtions,  and  in  1785 
the  Imports  from  and  the  exports  to  ^e 
islands  wete : — 

Imports.  Me9. 

lisbon ....  2,448,000,000 

Oporto. . . .     780,000,009  ^ 

Sietuval.    ..     110,6o6,OOGr^ 

•Figueira. . .      48,000,060- 

Algarve. . .         1,341,00©^ 


VJana. 


Exports.  Ress 
551,000;060 
^960,000,000' 
«7i000i00b 
3,489,000 
«8,81*,0<)0 
8,508,000 


S,384,S4l,00Q,  .^  1,564,305^000 
Balance  in  favour  of  £i]jglaad  1^818,000,000, 
nearly,  or  upwards  of  half  a  millten  sterling. 
In  178^  Portugal  imported  from 

Iifelwd  JKor 366,734,000 

/lij.      »i ' aqd ^exported fon  ♦ , , .  <<  140,439»000 

Balance  in  favour  of  Ireland. .  226,295,000 
upwards  of  jf 63,000. 

The  chief  imports  from  England  are  woollens 
and  other  manufactures,  ■  coafe,   tin,    and  New- 
'foundland    cod,    for  ^200,000 .  sterling.      Erom 
Ireland,  linens,  salt  provisions,  and  butter. 

'[  ^^3ince  1785,  the  imports  from  the  British  islands 

lAtve 


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^06  MABITIim  eSQfiHEUFHT. 

have  comi^z$kly  dkmakkedt  omog  eMLcAgr  to  the 
imfmrremeats  ia  the  fortngatae  foaiHifactorifii^ 
and  At  the  coaamraiieineBt  of  the  Freadi  itevo- 
kiioai  Hbe  belsQoe  m  fstvour  of  Eag^aod  was  t e- 
ducedahnMt  to  a  cyplier. 

^eaUies  the  avow^  trfide  hetweoi  Eagjaadaad 
FOTtngal^  an  exteo$ive  syitem  of  smuggling  wm 
SmrneAj  carried  on  by  the  Boj^tih  paeketa  that 
tailed  &om  Fdmoutb  to  Liabee^ .  tbew  v&aMk 
bemg  free  from  search  until  1772*  Between  1759 
and  tins  year,  they  ase  calculated  to  have  smug- 
gled out  of  Portogal  mne  mfllions  and  a  half 
sterling;  in  «ain  and  Qq;pt8« 

Hie  general  average  of  the  exports  of  Portagal 
in  peace,  indep^ent  of  cdpnial  produce,  was 
estimated  at  foUows  :(-^ 

Wines  ahnost  entirely  to  En^^and  58,000  pipes. 

Weet da. l,000^000pounds. 

Green   fruit   (oraj^;es.    lecnoos, 

grapes^  $md  pomegraMtes) .       SOcaigoes 

Dried  Iruit  (raisins^  %f,  and  ai» 

monds)  •••••••«..  «^  *  .•  •-         15  da* 

Ssk,   dkiefly   to  Denmaric  and 

Sweden   ...... s  ......  IO0,0ee-lNMhels 

Oir  (300 to  Braza).  • 7Q0pipes.^ 


The  colonies  of  Portugal,  ficasil  excepted, 
.fiom  the  negligent  pnomer.  in  which  tbey  aae 
managed,  andUie  ggeuitraL  indolence  of  the  nation, 
both,  at  home  and  abroad,,  are  of  very  little  im- 
portance in  a  commercial  point  of  view.    In  the 

Atlantic 


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FQWrVQAL4  109 

^.tlftotic  she  poft9^6e8  tht  Aaor^  the  Madeiras^  cm«. 
the  Cape  Vend  Jslaadfl^  Fanumdo  Nariioimo»  and 

The  Azorea^  if  occupied  by  a  oaare  Industrioua  a«>»* 
peoplct  and  freed  from  tl^  l^ong  of  priests  iad 
monks  that  infest  them,  are  capable  of  being 
made  a  most  important  coionj  to  a  maritime  and 
trading  nation :  at  present,  the  only  comn^cial 
advanta^  that  F^t^agBi  receives  from  them,  is 
in  the  export  of  a  Uttle  com  to  Maddra  and 
Lisbon.  Their  otibier  commercial  jHroductionst 
which  are  confined  to  wine  and  orai^es*  are  taken 
off  by  the  En^ish  and  North  Amoricaiis. 

Madeira,  though  it  affords  some  revenne,  is  of  MAddi*. 
little  value  to  Porti%al  as  a  commerdid  colony : 
for  of  hidf  a  milUoti  sterling,  the  amoimt  of  its 
exports,  she  only  receives  for  jClO,000,  the  rest 
being  taken  off  by  the  English  and  Americans. 
These  two  nations  also  carry  off  the  only  conu 
mercial  productions  of  the  C^  Verd*  i^and&> 
consisting  of  salt  and  mules ;  smd  the  duties  paid 
on  th^  export,  not  defrayia^  the  expenses  of 
the  goyemment, ,  these  idands  tie  a  drad  loss  t# 
the  mother  country,  fhou^  in  more  industriow 
hands  they  might  be  made  extremely  pi?ofitiB(bte. 
Fernando  Norhonno  is  only  a  place  of  ecdle 
£rom  Bra^,  4nd  Asctosion  is  ums^abited  and 
desert 

The  Poctugaese  having  first  disoovered  and  ^^"^ 
formed  aettlemebts  on  ika^  west  coast  of  Afiri- 
ca,  betv«t»i  Cape  i^partel  and  Angda,  the  trade 
«f  thii  Goaftt  was  of  cooseqaenqe  losig  moim* 

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110  MARITIME   GEOGRAPHr. 

^^"i^  |)c4ized  by  them.  On  their  subjection  to  Spain, 
the  Dutch  drove  them  from  most  of  their  esta- 
blishments, and  though  they  recovered  them  with 
their  independence  and  renewed  the  trade,  they 
had  now  so  many  concurrents,  in  the  Dutch, 
English,  and  French,  that  the  extent  of  it  was 
greatly  diminished,  and  they  at  length  relinquish- 
ed both  it  and  their  settlements  from  Cape  Spartel 
to  the  river  Cassaman9a.  They  still,  however,  claim 
the  exclusive  trade  from  this  river  to  river  Nunez 
inclusive,  and  have  sevelral  establishments  in  this 
territory,  as  well  as  on  the  Sierra  Leone,  and 
Mesurado,  and  a  factory  at  Whidah.  llieir  esta- 
blishments in  I^wer  Guinea  are  of  more  import- 
ance,  and  they  t^m  the  exclusive  right  of  form* 
ing  settlem^its,  from  the  river  Zaire  to  the 
south. 

The  islands  of  St.  Thomas  and  Frince,  in  the 
Gulf  of  Guinea,  are  useful  in  carrying  on  the 
dave  trade,  and  the  former  also  afibrds  some  wine, 
si^r,  and  ginger,  imported  into  lisboiu 

The  number  of  slaves  taken  annually  from  the 
west  coast  i  of  Africa  to  Brasil,  is  12,000,  The 
commerce  of  this  coast  is  free  to  all  the  subjects 
6f  Portugal,  and  the  establishments  are  supported 
by  the  crown. 

5j«c<*itor  On  the  east  coast  of  Africa,  the  Pwtuguese 
still  retain  a  nominal  empire  of  vast  extent,  but  of 
very  litde  real  value.  ITie  tribute  paid  by  fifteen 
chiefs,  who  are  honoured  with  the  titles  of  kings^ 
may  flatter  the  national  iwiity,  but  does  not  cover, 
by  a  great  deal^  the  expenses  of  tiie  estabUsbxnent% 

though 


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Pd^ToaAL.  Ill 

iboQgh  th^  are  all  in  a  very  bad  state.  The  prin*' 
cipal  is  Mosambiquej  the  others  in  succession  »e  SSU^'^ 
Melinda,  MombazJa,  Quiloa^  Monfia,  Zan2ebar,> 
and  Pemba,  each  of  which  has  its  king  allied,  or 
tribiitary,  to  the  crown  of  Portugal ;  Brava  is  a 
republic  under  its  protection,  and  Quilimany  is  of 
little  importance.  A  few  daves  are  sent  from  thia 
coast  to  Brasil. 

After  possessing,  for  more  than  a  century,  the  BMM»di«i^ 
undivided  dominion  of  the  Indian  seas,  Portugal 
saw  her  power  in  these  regions  melt  away  before 
the  courage,  prudence,  and  perseverance  of  the 
Dutch,  as  rapidly  as  it  had  been  raised  on  the 
pusillanimity  and  ignorance  of  the  Indians.  All 
that  now  remains  x)f  her  vast  empire  in  the  East, 
are  the  establishments  of  Goa,  Diu,  Demaun, 
Choul,  and  Bassein,  on  the  western  coast  of  the 
peninsula;  a  factory  at  St  Thom^  near  Madras ; 
another  on  the  Hooglyj  the  city  of  Macao,  in 
China  ;  and  a  part  of  the  island  of  Timor.  The 
commerce  between  Portugal  and  these  possessions 
occupies  in  general  only  three  to  four  annual  ships, 
whose  return  cargoes  are  valued  at  from  200  to 
^250,000.  In  1789,  there  entered  Lisbon  three 
ships  from  Bengal,  six  from  Macao,  one  from 
Goa,  and  two  from  the  Coromandel  Coast.  'Total 
twelve. 

The  little  value  of  the  othpr  colonies  of  Portu-  b~*- 
gal  is  compensated  by  the  possession  of  Brasil, 
abodndjng  in  mines  of  gold  and  precious  stones, 
and  afibrding  the  richest  harvests  of  the  torrid 
zone.    Hie  indolence  of  the  Portuguese  and  ti)eir 

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113  MAtLltJMM  OXOOKAPHT. 

miataken  colonial  sytsb&m^  havi  however  hidierUi 
prevented  the  mother  country  from  deriving  any 
advantage^  proportionate  to  its  o^pability ,  from  tliis 
vast  territory.    Until  the  emigration  of  the  royal 
family,  its  ports  were  hermetically  sealed  against 
the  commercial  flags  of  every  foreign  nation,  and 
its  productions  were  conveyed  to  Lid^on  by  an 
annual  fleet,  which  at  first  rendezvoused  at  tbe 
Bay  of  All  Saints,  but  since  the  discovery  of  the 
gold  mines  in  the  vicinity  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  has 
sailed  from  that  port.    In  return  for  manufactured 
goods,  flour,  oil,  wine,  bi-andy,  and  salt,*  Portu« 
gal  receives  annually  from  Brasil,  as  follows  :— 
45,000  chests  of  sugar  of  twelve  to  fifteen 
hundred  weight  each. 
1,120,000  pounds  of  caSke. 
340,000,000     do.     of  cotton. 
240,000  hides,  raw  or  dried. 
14,000  tanned  do. 
20,000  quintals  of  Brasil  wood. 
100,000  bags  of  rice,  1^  pounds  eadi. 
100,000  bags  of  Cacao,  120  pounds  each. 
120,000  pounds  of  Sars^^erilla. 
60,000  pounds  of  Cassia. 
60,000  pounds  of  Curcuma. 

180,000 


*  Theugfa  io  tbe  vkinity  of  Bahia»  Cope  St.  Roque,  and  Cape  Frio» 
aTmndance  of  salt  ia  formed  naturally  by  the  sun,  it  is  strictly  prohibited  to 
tht  inbakitantB  «f  the  govenmienta  of  Femambuco,  Cape  Frio,  and  Rio 
Graiide,  to  comrey  the  smalleat  <|uaQtky  to  Bahia^  Rio  de  Janeiro,  Sbiitoa, 
or  any  other  place,  the  supplying  of  which  is  reserved  to  Portugal,  and  is 
ivmed  out.  Tho  iahiOataBts  of  these  Mk  ^strtets  may,  howe^er^  ^nploy 
aiBtfaritfowm  OQMwiiptkm. 


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FOETUGAL.  113 

180,000  pounds  of  indigo. 

200  small  barrels  of  oil  of  Copaiba. 
6,000  pounds  of  pecharis. 
Besides  gold  for  twelve  to  fifteen  millions  of 
crusadoes,  and  precious  stones  for  two  to  three 
millions,  and  exclusive  of  bees'- wax,  silk,  liquors, 
wbale-oil,  saltpetre,  Peruvian  bark,  lignum  vitae, 
mahogany  and  other  fine  woods.  The  precious 
metals  and  stones  are  only  allowed  to  be  exported 
in  king's  ships,  and  the  Brasil  wood  and  tobacco 
only  on  account  of  the  crown.  The  ports  of 
Brasil,  which  have  a  direct  trade  with  Lisbon,  are 
Fernambuco,  Bahia,  and  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

In   1789,   twenty-seven  ships  entered   Lisbon 
from  Portuguese  America. 

The  geographical  and  political  position  of  Por- 
tugal  obliging  her  to  seek  foreign  aid  to  preserve 
her  independence,  and  England  being  the  only 
nation  capable  of  afibrding  her  that  aid,  and  at 
the  same  time  from  whom  she  has  nothing  to  fear, 
their  relations  have  existed  for  more  than  a  century 
and  a  half,  the  first  treaty  of  alliance  being  signed 
in  1641.  Since  the  treaty  of  1703,  already  no- 
ticed, France  has  never  teased  to  attempt  weak- 
ening the  English  influence  in  Portugal ;  but  her 
intrigues  were  unsuccessful  until  1797,  when  the 
plenipotentiaries  of  the  two  nations  signed  a  treaty 
of  commerce,  by  which  France  acquired  ex- 
tended commercial  privileges,  but  this  treaty  was 
not  ratified  by  the  government  of  Portugal.  In 
1801,  Portugal  was  forced  to  conclude  another 
treaty,    by  which  French  woollems  were  to  be 

voL.n.  I  admitted 


CUotitK 


TVMlMt. 


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114  MARITIME  GEOGRAPHY. 

admitted  on  the  same  terms  as  English.  Portugal 
has  also  a  commercial  treaty  with  Denmark,  con- 
cluded in  1766;  and  with  Sweden  in  1641,  which 
are  noticed  in  the  preceding  volume. 


/i.**r*M.  q^Q  fisheries  of  Portugal,  as  well  as  every  other 
branch  of  the  national  industry,  are  by  no  means 
carried  to  the  extent  they  are  susceptible  of,  if 
the  national  indolence  was  overcome  and  their 
nets  and  boats  improved.  The  only  ones  worthy 
of  notice  are  of  sprats  and  tunny  fish,  the  former 
chiefly  carried  on  from  Aveiro,  Cezembra,  Setuval, 
Faro,  and  the  mouth  of  the  Guadiana.  In  1774^ 
Casjtro  Marino  on  this  river,  had  fifty  large  boats 
employed  in  it  from  the  beginning  of  September 
to  Christmas,  but  it  being  said,  that  the  greatest 
part  of  the  produce  was  sold  fresh  to  the  Spaniards 
of  Ayamonte,  who  cured  it,  and  consequently 
derived  the  greatest  advantage  from  the  fishery,  an 
attempt  was  made  to  transfer  the  fishermen  from 
Castro  Marino  to  Villa  Real  de  St.  Antonio,  found- 
ed purposely  at  tte  month  of  the  river  j  but  this 
restraint  had  an  entire  contrary  efiect  to  what  was 
looked  for,  and  in  I777  the  number  of  boats  were 
reduced  to  ten.  The  duty  on  the  export  of  cured 
fish  being  then  taken  off,  the  fishery  again  in- 
creased, and  in  1790  employed  2,500  persons  from 
the  ports  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Guadiana.  The 
fishery  is  however  precarious,  the  fish  not  arriving 
annually  on  the  same  spots  of  the  coast ;  neither 
4o  the  Portuguese  think  of  extracting  a  part  of 

'  the 


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PORTUGAL.  115 

the  oil,  by  which  they  not  only  lose  a  considerably 
iMivjftntage  but  the  fish  do  not  keep  so  well. 

ITie  tunny  fishery  is  principally  carried  on  from 
fbe  ports  near  Cape  St.  Vincent,  but  is  inconsi- 
4erjable.* 

Portugal  has  no  foreign  fishery,  though  a  very 
jMrc^able  and  extensive  one  might  be  established 
0n  the  coast  of  Brasil,  from  Fernambuco  to  Cap^ 
Frii),  where  tlierie  is  abundance  of  salt. 


At  the  commencement  of  the  fifteenth  century,  ^• 
Portugal  Was  one  of  the  first  maritime  powers  of 
Europe,  her  navy  being  considerable  and  her 
subjects  the  most  expert  navigators  of  the  age.  In 
1415,  the  fleet  commanded  by  King  John  I.  against 
the  Moors,  consisted  of  thirty-three  large  ships, 
fifty-nine  gallies,  and  110  transports.  From  this 
period  the  Portuguese  marine  has  experienced 
divers  revolutions.  Under  John  III,  between  1521 
and  1537,  twenty  Ijarge  ships  and  four  gallies  were 
kept  in  constant  commission^  to  protect  the  coast 
and  convoy  the  flefets  from  the  colonies.  At  the 
accession  of  John  IV.  (1640)  scarce  a  ship  re- 
mained from  the  jealousy  xtf  the  Spaniards,  and 
the  arsenals  were  in  ruin  and  empty.  Peter  II. 
(I667-I706)  endeavoured  to  restore  the  navy,  but 
under  his  successor,  John  V.  (1706-1750)^  it  again 

I  2  fell 

*  Tlie  antieat  Bsihtrin  ol  Pprt«g^  were  more  eKUnsive  than  those  of 
modern  times.  In  1383,  t^e  LDiboners  rereired  permission  from  Edward 
III.  of  Eni^iand  tofi^onthecoastsof  Sritanf. 


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116  MARITIME  OE06RAPHT. 

^'  fell  into  disorder  and  a  dreadful  storm  at  lisboDy 
almost  annihilated  it,  so  that,  at  the  accesi^on 
of  Joseph  I.  (I75O),  the  whole  navy  consisted 
of  only  five  ships  of  the  line  and  seven  or 
eight  frigates,  in  a  very  bad  state,  and  without 
experienced  oflScers  or  seamen.  The  Marqfuis  de 
Pombal  endeavoured  to  restore  it,  by  encouraging 
foreign  officers  and  artificers,  particularly  English 
and  French,  to  enter  into  the  service,  and  by  their 
means  the  navy  of  Portugal  again  became  suffi- 
ciently respectable  for  her  political  situation.  In 
1790  it  was  composed  of  thirteen  sail  of  the  Hne 
and  fifteen  frigates  ^Chd  smaller  vessels.  In  1807» 
on  the  occupation  of  Portugal  by  the  French,  it 
consisted  of  serviceable  ships,  as  follows  :— 

Of  the  line.        Frigatea.       Brigs,  Sec. 

1  of  84     1  of  48     4  of  22"! 
6      74    3      44    1      20    Total  twenty-eight 

vessels  and  1,316 
guns,  besides  one 
ship  of  the  line 
building- 
11 

Of  this  force  one  ship  of  the  line  and  three  brigs 
were  stationed  at  Rio  Janeiro  and  three  small 
frigates  at  Goa.  Eight  ships  of  the  line,  four 
frigates,  three  brigs,  and  one  schooner  convoyed 
the  royal  family  to  Brasil,  leaving  in  Europe 
only  two  ships  of  the  line,  four  frigates,  and  two 
brigs. 

Besides  the  regular  navy,  a  number  of  armed 
vessels  are  employed  to  guard  the  coasts  from  the 

Barbary 


line. 
84 

Frigates. 

lof  48 

Brigs,  Ac. 

4  of  22' 

74 
64, 

3 

1 

44" 
36 

1  20 
1       12 

2 

32 

4 

28 

- 

11 

"e 

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PORTUGAL.  117 

Barbary  pirates,  with  whose  governments  Porta-     ^ 
gal  has  no  conventions.     The  expense  of  these 
vessels  is  defrayed  by  a  duty  of  five  per  cent,  on 
all  exports,  and  of  three  per  cent,  on  imports. 

In  1789,  the  number  and  pay  of  the  Portuguese 
sea  officers  were  as  follows  :— 

2  vice  admirals,  per    Res.   ^ 

month 400,000  j  The  half  pay  of 


3  rear  admirals    ....  200,000  !      these  officers  is 
15  commodores     ....  100,000  f     one  half  of  the 
8  captains  of  ships  of  I      full. 

the  line     45,000  J 

11  captains  of  frigates   36,000"| 
33  captain  lieutenants  *  30,000  I  Idem,    the  two- 
22  first  lieutenants    . .    15,000  >    thirds  of  the 
22  second  lieutenants     12,000        fiill  pay. 

midshipmen 3,000^ 

Though  Portugal  itself  is  deficient  in  the  mate- 
rials of  a  navy,  the  forests  of  Brasil  afford  her  an 
inexhaustile  supply  of  excellent  timber  and  masts, 
and  she  advantageously  procures  from  the  north 
the  other  necessary  objects  in  return  for  her  own 
and  her  colonies'  productions.  Of  late  years, 
seyeral  of  her  men  of  war  and  almost  all  her  mer- 
chant men  have  been  built  at  the  bay  of  All 
Saints,  where  it  is  said  a  line  of  battle  ship  can  be 
built  for  ^15  a  ton. 

The  PortuguiBse  are  excellent  seamen  in  foreign 
services.    In  their  own  ships  of  war,  being  in  gene« 

I  3  ral 

•  CommandiDg  sloops,  Ac. 


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118  MABITIME   OEOORAPHT. 

ral  badly  commanded  by  their  national  officers 
(who  however  are  usually  educated  at  the  naval 
academies  at  Lisbon),  the  national  character 
appears  in  a  total  want  of  the  minutia'of  disci- 
pline, and  in  a  degree  of  dirt  and  slovenliness 
exceeding  even  the  French !!! 


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(    119    ) 


THE  MEDITERRANEAN. 


Tlie  Mediteril\nean  (Mare  internum  of  the  ^**^»- 
antients)  extends  in  length  from  the  Strait  of  Gi- 
braltar to  the  coast  of  Syria,  2,300  mUes,  but  is 
of  very  unequal  breadths,  from  900  to  300 ;  the 
limits  of  its  latitudes,  are  45°  54/  (Adriatic)  and 
30^  5'  (Gulf  of  Sidris).  It  is  entered  from  the 
Atlantic  through  the  Strait  of  Gibraltar,    the  an-  atrtit  of 

O  '  ^         Gibraltar. 

tient  Frettmi  Herculeum,  Columnaria,  and  Gadita^ 
num ;  the  two  first  names  it  received  from  the 
promontories  of  Abyla  and  Calpe,  the  antient  pil- 
lars of  Hercules  j  and  the  latter  from  Gadez  (Ca- 
diz). Its  modem  name  is  a  corruption  of  Jabtda 
/'  Tarak,  mountain  of  Tarak,  from  being  the 
place  where  the  Arab  General,  Tarak,  landed  in  the 
first  Moorish  invasion  of  Spain  in  710.  The  Arabs 
give  to  the  Strait  the  name  of  Babu  z  Zukak,  the 
gate  of  the  way.  The  length  of  the  Strait  is 
fourteen  leagues,  and  the  breadth  where  narrow- 
est six  leagues,  between  Tariffa  and  Alcazar  point 
in  Barbary. 

Some  naturalists  suppose  the  Mediterranean  to  Pormauon. 
have  been  originally  a  vast  lake,    the  waters  of 
which  being  suddenly  increased  by  the  irruption 
of  those  of  the  Black  Sea  at  the  time  of  the  for- 
matioa  of  the  latter,  forced  themselves  a  passage 

1 4  tihrough 


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«Qlfll. 


ISO  MARITJMS  OEOQUAFHY* 

through  the  Strait  of  Gibraltar,  and  produced  the 
inundation  that  submerged  the  great  Atlantic  is^ 
land  of  Plato*  This  hypothesis  is,  however,  com. 
bated  by  Buffon,  on  the  ground  that  it  is  the 
ocean  which  runs  into  the  Mediterranean,  and 
not  the  latter  into  the  ocean.  This  celebrated 
natuialist,  however,  believes  that  the  Mediterra- 
nean was  in  reality  a  lake,  and  that  the  Strait  was 
formed  by  a  sudden  convulsion  produced  by  some 
accidental  cause,  as  an  earthquake,  or  a  violent 
effort  of  the  ocean  against  this  spot.  This  opinion, 
which  was  also  that  of  some  of  the  antients,  is 
founded  on  the  similar  strata  observed  at  equal 
devations  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Strait.  The 
ocean  having  broken  through  this  barrier,  rushed 
with  impetuosity  into  the  lake,  and  inuncbiting 
the  continent,  transformed  the  plains  and  vallies 
into  gulfs,  leaving  only  the  eminences  uncovered, 
which  now  compose  Italy  and  the  islands  of  this  sea. 

The  Mediterranean  forms  many  great  gulfs, 
the  three  most  considerable  of  which  are  the  Gulf 
OF  Venice  or  Adriatic  Sea,  the  latter  name  de-. 
rived  from  the  now  insignificant  town  of  Adria  on 
the  Tartara,  nine  leagues  south  of  Venice,  which 
vas  antiently  washed  by  the  sea, 

The  Archipelago  {jEgean  Sea)  j  and  the 
Gulf  of  Tripoli  on  the  coast  of  Africa. 

Several  portions  of  the  Mediterranean  have  also 
received  distinctiye  names,  both  in  antient  and 
modem  times.  The  space  between  the  Balearic 
islands  and  Spain  is  by  the  Spaniards  called  the 
3ea  of  Valencia  (Mare  Balearicum).     That  be- 

tweeni 


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THE  MEDITERRANEAN.  121 

tween  Sardinia,  Corsica,  Italy,  and  Sicily,  the 
antient  Tyrrheman  Sea,  is  sometimes  named  the 
Sea  of  Tuscany  and  of  Sicily.  The  great  gulf  by 
which  the  Adriatic  is  entered  is  called  the  Ionian 
Sea,  and  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  Mediterra- 
nean from  the  Isle  of  Candia,  is  denominated  the 
Levant,  from  its  eastern  position. 

The  secondary  gulfs  of  the  Mediterranean  are 
those  of  Lyon*  (Sintcs  GaUicus,  Sinus  Leonis)^ 
Genoa  (^Smus  ligusticus)  ;  and  Tarente  {TarenU^ 
nus).  The  Gulf  of  Lyon  extends  from  Cape  St. 
Sebastian,  in  Catalonia,  to  the  Isles  of  Hyeres  j 
the  Gulf  of  Genoa,  in  its  most  extensive  sense^ 
from  these  islai^ds  tp  the  promontory  of  Piom^ 
bino,  and  the  Gulf  of  Tarente  is  a  branch  of  the 
Ionian  Sea,  between  Capes  del  Alice  and  Leuca> 
at  the  S.E.  extremity  of  Naples, 

.  The  constant  current  that  flows  into  the  Mediter*  i^frei, 
ranean  from  the  ocean,  if  an  opposite  inferior  current 
in  the  Strait  is  not  admitted,  necessarily  supposes 
its  level  to  be  lower  than  that  of  the  Atlantic, 
and  this  effect  can  only  be  produced  by  the  loss 
of  more  of  its  water  by  evaporation  than  is  re- 
stored to  it  by  rivers,  rains,  &c. :  its  level  is  also 
considerably  lower  than  that  of  the  Red  Sea.  With 
respect  to  the  depth  of  the  Mediterranean,    we 

find 


*  Properly  the  Gulf  of  the  Liop,  and  not  of  Lyons,  according  to  the 
|K)pular  orthography ;  the  antients  gave  it  the  name  of  Sinus  Lemis,  }ie- 
caiise  its  navigation  is  dangerous  hy  small  vessels,  when  the  mistral  or 
K.W.  wind  blows  with  Tiolence,  the  force  of  which  wsa  compared  to  thai 
of  the  lion. 


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122  MAKITIME   GEOGRAPHY. 

find  but  few  notices.  In  the  channel  between  Sicily 
and  Malta  the  greatest  depth  is  100  fathoms, 
while  between  Malta  and  Cape  Bon  there  is  not 
more  than  thirty. 

Navigators  have  made  the  following  remarks 
respecting  the  currents  of  this  sea.  The  mward 
current  is  much  stronger  on  the  Afirican  shore  of 
the  Strait  of  Gibraltar,  and  even  at  times  an  otit- 
ward  current  is  experienced  on  the  opposite  coast. 
From  the  Strait  the  current  sets  strong  to  the 
east  along  the  coast  of  Africa,  following  its  direc- 
tion to  the  coast  of  Syria,  where  it  sets  to  the 
north  and  to  the  west  along  the  coast  of  Carama- 
nia,  at  the  rate  of  one  mile  per  hour.  The  cur- 
rent from  the  Black  Sea  passes  to  the  sonth  through 
all  the  channels  of  the  Archipelago.  A  current 
sets  into  the  Adriatic  along  the  east  coast  quite 
to  its  head,  and  out  on  the  opposite  coast.  Tlie 
general  current  sets  out  along  the  coasts  of  France 
and  Spain,  but  with  the  wind  from  north  west  it 
is  the  reverse,  the  currents  then  setting  in  along 
the  coasts  of  Spain  and  France,  and  indeed 
throughout  the  sea  the  currents  are  considerably 
affected  by  the  winds. 

The  tides,  though  comparatively  inconsiderable 
in  the  Mediterranean,  have,  in  several  places,  a 
perceptible  rise  and  fall.  The  greatest  seems  to  be 
at  Venice,  where  the  extreme  difference  is  three 
feet.  At  Marsala,  in  Sicily,  the  flood  comes  from 
the  N.E.  and  the  rise  is  two  and  half  to  three  feet ; 
at  Naples  one  foot,  at  Toulon  one  to  two  feet, 
on  the  coast  of  Syria  only  six  inches.    The  winds 

also 


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THE   M£]>ITERRAN£AN^  1^ 

also  produce  partial  and  irregular  elevations  of 
the  wafers,  which  in  many  instances  have  proba- 
bly been  mistaken  fpr  the  effects  of  tides ;  thus 
when  strong  westerly  winds  blow  for  any  conti- 
nuance, they  force  an  accumulated  body  of  waters 
through  the  Strait  which  raises  the  general  level, 
of  the  sea,  while  strong  Levant  winds  have  a  con- 
trary effect  J  nevertheless  it  is  observed,  that  in 
tJieseaof  Tuscany,  S.E.  winds,  cause  a  greater 
elevation  of  the  tide  ;  on  the  nortli  coast  of  Sicily, 
particularly  at  Marsala,  where,  as  we  have  observed, 
the  common  rise  is  but  three  feet :  with  a  strong 
&£•  wind  it  is  as  much  as  ten  or  eleven. 

In  the  Strait  of  Euripus,  which  separates  Negro* 
pont  from  the  continent,  is  a  singular  pheno- 
menon of  the  tides.  Duripg  the  first  eight  days  of 
the  moon,  as  well  as  from  the  fourteenth  to  the 
twentieth  day,  and  for  the  last  three  days,  the  tide 
ebbs  and  flows  regularly  four  times  in  the  twenty- 
four  hours^  while  during  each  of  the  other  days 
it  ebbs  and  flows  with  great  force,  from  eleven  to 
fourteen  times,  though  the  difference  of  elevation 
never  exceeds  two  feet 

Aristotle  is  said  to  have  drowiied  himsdf  here 
through  chagrin,  at  being  unable  to  account  fbv, 
this  phenom^ion. 

In  tiie  Strait  of  Messina  is  the  celebrated 
Charybdis,  which  has  lost  much  of  its  antient  hor« 
rifle  sublimity,  being  at  present  a  not  very  dan- 
gerous agitation  of  the  waters  produced  by  the 
meetii^  of  the  tides.  It  occupies  a  space  of  about 
100  feet  in  circumference  opposite  a  little  cove 

east 


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124  MAEITIME  GEOOEtAFHT. 

east  of  Faro  light-house,  called  Calo  Faro,  and 
about  250  yards  from  the  shore.  This  agitation 
only  takes  place  when  the  current  is  ebbing  or 
setting  through  the  Strait  from  the  north,  when 
its  stream  makes  with  the  shore  a  number  of 
angles  of  incidence  which  retards  its  progress,  so 
that  it  takes  two  hours  to  reach  Charybdis  from 
the  entrance  of  the  Strait.  Here  it  produces  a 
considerable  rippling  agitation,  but  no  vortex,  for 
the  light  substances  thrown  into  it,  instead  of 
being  carried  down,  are  tossed  about  on  the  sur- 
&ce.  The  depth  of  water  in  this  spot  is  eighty 
fathoms.  Between  the  tides  there  is  a  period  of  re- 
pose, which  is  never  more  than  an  hour  nor  less 
than  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  When  the  wind  blows 
strong  from  the  south  against  the  current,  the 
leaves  rise  to  a  dangerous  height  for  open  boats, 
who  sometimes  fill  and  go  down,  but  the  only  dan- 
ger to  a  large  vessel  is  of  being  driven  on  shore 
by  the  stream,  her  sails  and  rudder  when  in  this 
spot  being  useless.  In  order  to  jwevent  such  ac- 
cidents, twenty-four  expert  seamen,  with  proper 
boats,  are  kept  constantly  ready  on  the  beach  at 
Messina,  to  put  off  to  the  assistance  of  any  vessel^ 
and  to  tow  her  out  of  the  danger. 

On  the  Calabrian  shore  of  the  Strait  opposite 
Charybdis,  is  the  equally  celebrated  rock  of  Scylla* 
It  is  a  little  promontory,  the  extremity  of  which 
is  200  feet  high,  and  falls  perpendicularly  into 
the  sea.  At  its  base  many  rocks  shew  themselves 
at  low  water,  and  these  rocks,  with  the  currents 
tod  waves  rushmg  with  great  fury  and  noise  into 

the 


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THE  MEDITERRAKEAK*  135 

the  sea-worn  caverns,  doubtless  gave  rise  to  the 
poetical  fiction  of  ^*  the  dogs  howling  round  the 
monster  Scylla."  However  this  rock  is  not  without 
a  certain  d^ree  of  danger,  which  in  some  measure 
authorizes  the  proverbial  expression  of  **  fatting 
upon  Scylla  in  trying  to  avoid  Charybdis/'  for  the 
tide  setting  directly  on  it,  and  the  depth  being 
too  great  for  anchorage  a  ship  is  liable  to  be  driven 
on  it  in  a  calm  or  contrary  wind.  On  the  summit 
of  the  promontory  is  a  castle,  and  on'the  south  side 
a  little  village  of  300  to  400  inhabitants  ^>. 

Tlie  Fatk  Morgana,  in  the  Strait  of  Messina,  19 
to  the  ignorant  class  of  the  modem  people  as 
wonderful  a  phenomenon  ^  Scylla  or  Charybdis 
to  the  antients,  and  is  thus  described  by  an  intel- 
ligent French  traveller :— "  In  fine  summer  days, 
when  the  weather  is  calm,  there  rises  a  vapour 
from  the  sea,  which  when  it  has  acquired'  a  cer* 
tain  density,  fdrms  in  the  atmosphere  horizontal 
[Nrisms,  whose  sides  are  to  disposed,  that  they  re- 
flect for  some  time  like  mirrors  the  objects  on  the 
coast,  exhibiting  by  turns  the  city  and  suburbs  of 
Messina,  trees,  animals,  men,  mountains,  &c. 
Tb^is  representation  continues  for  eight  or  ten 
minutes,  when  shining  irregularities  are  observed 
on  the  surface  of  the  prisms,  that  first  render  con- 
fused the  objects  they  reflect  and  the  picture  dies 
away  gradually/' 

The  Mediterranean  receiving  but  four  rivers  of  ■^*"^* 
any  magnitude,  while  a  stream  from  the  ocean 

continually 


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Windi. 


136  MABITIiklB  GEOORAPHT. 

cohtimutliy  runs  into  it,  its  waters  are  as  saline  as 
those  of  the  latter,  affinrding  from  the  ii  to  the  ^^ 
of  their  weight  of  salt. 

.Tliis  sea  has  many  springs  of  fresh  water  rushing 
up  from  amidst  the  salt ;  the  most  celebrated  <^ 
which  is  in  the  grand  port  of  Tarento,  called 
the  Little  Beoj  and  at  some  distance  from  the 
month  of  the  Galesus :  it  is  in  such  force  and 
sibundance  that  it  may  be  taken  up  without  the 
least  mixture  of  the  ssJt  water.. 

The  winds  most  prevalent  in  the  Mediterranean 
are  those  between  N.W.  and  N.E,,  which  blow, 
with  few  intermissions,  for  nine  months  of  th9e 
year,  and  almost  constantly  during  summer.  In 
the  other  three  montiis  (February,  March,  and 
April),  S.E.  and  S.W.  winds  prevail.  Tlie  nature 
and  efiects  of  the  winds  in  the  Mediterranean, 
however,  difier  greatly  according  to  locality.  On 
the  south  coast  of  Spain  the  wind  called  Solano, 
and  in  Italy  SciroccOj  is  from  the  S.E.  These 
wmds  blowing  fcom  the  sandy  deserts  of  Africa, 
bring  with  them,  particulariy  to  Sicily  and  Na- 
ples, a  degree  of  insupportable  heat,  which  raises 
the  thermometer  to  112.  During  the  continu- 
ance of  the  Scirocco,  the  elasticity  of  <he  air 
i^ems  tobe  lost,  and  both  the  body  and  mind  are 
reduced  to  debility.  At  Palermo,  where  the  in- 
tensity of  the  Scirocco  is  greatest,  it  never  lasts 
more  than  forty-eight  hours,  but  at  Naples  it 
sometimes  continues  io£  weeks,  and  produces 
epidemic  diseases. 

The 


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THE   M£DIT£RRAKEAII«  197 

Hie  Mistral  is  a  N.  W.  wind  which  blows  with 
great  violence  down  the  Gulf  of  Lyon. 

The  Kamsin  is  a  S.S.W.  wind,  which  blows  in 
Egypt  in  March  and  April,  generally  not  more 
than  three  successive  days  at  a  time.  While  it 
continues,  the  atmosphere  seems  to  be  on  fire, 
and  acquires  a  purple  tinge;  and  the  transient 
blasts  which  succeed  from  time  to  time,  resemUe 
the  breath  from  a  furnace.  This  is  the  only  un- 
healthy period  in  Egypt,  when  the  plague,  wbidi 
seems  to  be  indigenous  in  this  country,  burstd 
forth  in  all  its  violence  *. 

Towards  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean the  temperature  of  the  atmosphere  varies 
more  with  the  wind  than  in  any  other  part  <rf  the 
world.  In  the  Archipelago,  the  northern  winds  t, 
which  blow  at  times  with  great  violence  during 
summer,  bring  a  considerable  degree  of  cold,  and 
obscure  the  horizon  iii  a  remarkable  manner.  They 
are  extremdy  injurious  to  vegetation,  stripjnng 
the  trees  of  their  leaves,  and  reducing  them  to  a 
state  of  languor :  they  also  cause  violent  head 
aches.  A  few  hours  of  these  winds  cover  the 
mountains  of  Epirus  with  snow,  which  as  speedi- 
ly disappears  with  a  few  hours  of  the  Scirocco. 

On 

•  The  iUn»ui  signifies  the  wind  of  fifty  days;  thus  named  because  it 
onty  happens  durkig  fifty  days  of  March  and  April.  The  Samiel,  or  poison- 
oos  wind  of  the  Arahs,  which  at  Bassora  blows  from  N.W.,  at  Bagdad  finom 
west,  at  Mecca  from  the  east,  and  in  Syria  from  the  S£.,  and  which  is 
also  the  Semoom  of  the  desert,  is  similar  in  its  nature  and  effects  to  the 
Kamsin.    It  contains  a  great  proportion  of  azote. 

t  TramoBtana,  the  Etesian  winds  of  the  ancients,  thQU2:fa  this  denoml* 
nation  was  also  extended  to  all  periodical  winds. 


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1S8  MARITIME  OEOGRAPilt. 

On  most  of  the  coasts  of  the  Levant  ther6  ar^ 
land  and  sea  breezes ;  the  latter,  on  the  coasts  of 
Turkey,  is  called  the  ImbaL  In  some  places  the 
land  winds  are  exceedingly  baneful,  particularly  in 
the  island  of  Gandia,  where  they  are  said  to  suf- 
focate persons  exposed  to  them. 

The  general  temperature  of  the  Mediterranean^c 
as  may  be  supposed,  varies  greatly,  according  to 
peculiar  circumstances.  Towards  the  south  the  cdli- 
inate  approaches  to  that  of  the  tropics,  while  on 
the  north  the  variations  of  the  seasons  are  more 
considerable.    The  greatest  severity  of  the  winter, 
Jiowever,   does  not  exceed  some  days  light  frost, 
and  the  snow  never  lays  more  than  a  few  hours  in 
the  vallies  and  low  grounds.     The  Adriatic  beings 
frozen  in  tlie  years  8G0  and  1234,  is  recorded  as  a 
singular  phenomenon.     In  the  eastern  part  of  the 
sea,  and  particularly  amongst  the  islands  of  the 
Archipelago,  the  winters  are   disagreeable,  from 
the  prevalence  of  the  Scirocco,  accompanied  by 
heavy  rains,  thunder,  and  lightning.     The  climate 
of  Attica,  on  tlie  contrary,  is  constantly  dry  and 
serene,  and  hence  it  is  that  the  marbles  used  in  the 
ancient  buildings,  though  exposed  for  ages  to  the 
weather,  stUl  retain  their  polish. 

Amongst  the  marine  productions  of  the  Medi- 
terranean, coral  (gorgona  nobiUs)  holds  the  first 
place :  it  is  found  in  greatest  abundance  round  the 
Lipari  islands,  in  the  strait  of  Messina,  and  on 
the  coast  of  Barbary.  The  French  and  Sicilians 
are  the  only  nations  who  make  its  fishery  a  gene- 
ral branch  of  industry.    The  former,  on  the  coast 

of 


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THE   MEDITERRANEAN.  129 

of  Barbaiy,  produces  a  profit  of  about  S60,000 
francs  per  annuo).  That  of  the  Sicilians,  round 
Lipari  and  Volcano,  ^employs  sixteen  boats ;  and 
that  in  the  strait  of  Messina  eighteen  to  twenty, 
from  Messina,  with  eight  men  in  each.  The  pro- 
duce is  about  3,000  lbs.  weight  per  annum  ;  but 
the  profits  afford  little  more  than  a  baie  subsistence 
to  the  persons  engaged  in  the  fishery.  The  spots 
on  which  this  substance  is  found  in  the  strait,  are 
nearly  in  the  middle,  from  the  Faro  to  opposite  the 
church  of  the  Grotto,  on  the  Sicilian  shore,  an 
extent  of  six  miles ;  and  on  two  sniall  rocky  spots 
opposite  the  canal  of  St.  Stephen,  eight  miles 
south  of  Messina.  Tlie  depth  on  these  spots  is 
sixty  to  ninety  fathoms.  This  space  is  divided 
into  ten  portions,  one  of  which  only  is  fished  every 
year,  so  that  each  has  ten  years  rest,  the  time 
found  necessary  to  allow  the  coral  to  arrive  at  ma^ 
turity.  The  manner  of  fishing  is  with  a  wooden 
cross,  to  the  extremities  of  which  pieces  of  net 
are  fastened ;  the  machine  being  sunk  by  heavy 
weights,  and  dragged  over  the  bottom,  breaks  off 
the  branches  of  coral,  which  get  entangled  in  the 
nets.  A  trifling  quantity  of  this  substance  is  also 
fished  in  the  gulf  of  Ajaccio  (Corsica),  and  in 
some  spots  near  Sardinia  and  Minorca.  Eleven 
other  species  of  the  gorgoiia,  or  sea  fan,  are 
found  in  the  Mediten'anean. 

This  sea  possesses  a  great  variety  of  naked  mol- 
lusca,  amongst  which  the  medusa  pulmo  is  the 
most  common,  particularly  in  the  seas  of  Italy. 
The  hobithtiria  phasalis  (Portuguese  man  of  war  of 

VOL.  II.  K  our 


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ISO  MARITIBfE  GO&OGBAFHY. 

our  seamen),  is  also  conunon  in  this  sea,  and  is 
named  by  the  French  la  vettette  and  la  galere^  the 
sail  and  the  galley.  The  specie^  of  testaceous 
mollusca  are  also  very  numerous  ;  the  most  wor- 
thy of  notice  are  the  murex,  which  it  is  thought 
afforded  the  celebrated  purple  dye  of  the  ancients.* 
Oysters,  limpits,  scollops,  and  muscles  areafaiundant; 
of  the  latter  is  a  singular  species,  found  chiefly  in  the 
Gulf  of  Nice  and  the  Adriatic,  inclosed  in  masses  of 
lime-stone  at  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  and  which,  from 
its  resemblance  to  that  fruit,  is  popularly  mimed  the 
sea  date  (pholas  dactyltis).  It  is  much  esteemed 
by  the  epicures  of  Rome  and  Naples.  The  lamta 
pinna,  or  sea  pine,  is  a  bivalve,  which  affords  a 
kind  of  tow,  or  silk,  that  is  manu&ctured  into 
gloves,  stockings,  &c.  These  shell  fish  are  taken 
principally  round  Cape  St  Vito,  the  south  point 
of  the  Gulph  of  Tarenta.  The  paper  nautiius  is 
also  met  with,  but  is  scarce. 

Amongst  the  crustaceous  fishes  are  the  commoa 
and  other  lobsters  and  crabs,  which  abound  on  the 
coast  of  Tuscany  in  particular.  The  sqmlla  arena- 
ria  is  a  very  delicate  prawn,  found  in  the  Adriatic. 

Ichtiologists  reckon  thirty-eight  genera  of  fish, 
divided  into  upwards  of  100  species,  in  the  Medi- 
terranean and  its  tributary  rivers,  and  which  are  in* 
dicated  in  the  following  tables. 

•  The  particular  species  of  shell  fish  from,  which  Ihe  purple  dye  was  ex- 
tracted by  the  antients  has  been  the  subject  of  much  discussion,  many 
affording  a  liquor  of  this  colour,  particularly  the  dirision  of  murex,  thence 
jomsd  purpura. 


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THE  MBDITBRRANEAir, 


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13* 


MARITIME  GEOOEAPHT. 


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Tfi£  MBDITERRANEAK*  135 

•  Tbot^h  several, of  the  most  valuable  species  pf  ^ 
fish  are  abundant  in  the  Mediterranean,  the  gene- 
tal  indolence  of  most  of  the  people  who  inhabit 
the  coasts,  prevents  the  fisheries  from  being  carried 
to  any  extent  as  an  object  of  external  commerce  ; 
aud  with  the  exception  of  the  tunny  fish,  anchovies 
and  sprats,  llie  whole  produce  of  the  fisheries  is 
consumed  at  home. 

The  tunny  fish  enter  the  Mediterranean  in  shoals 
from  the  oc^an  in  spring,  and  pass  through  into 
the  Blade  Sea  and  Sea  of  Azqph,  in  whose  shoal 
waters  they  are  supposed  to  spawn;*  they  return 
to  the  ocean  in  autumn.  The  French  being  the 
most  industrious  nation  of  the  Mediterranean, 
carry  the  tunny  fishery  to  the  greatest  extent. 
These  fidi  arrive  on  the  coast  of  Provence  from 
June  to  September  inclusive,  and  are  taken  both 
with  hook  and  line  and  with  nets.  The  thmaire 
is  a  number  of  nets  joined  together  and  hauled  on 
shore  like  the  seine,  when  the  shoals  of  fish  appear, 
for  whose  arrival  a  strict  watch  is  kept  by  persons 
stationed  mi  the  hills. 

The  madrague  is  an  inclosure  of  nets,  consist- 
ing of  several  apartments,  like  a  succession  of 

K  4  rooma 


•  It  iBsaid  that  Iheie  fiah  enter  the  Black  Sea  along  the  toaat  of  Aiia  and 
return  along  that  of  Europe ;  Aristotle  and  Pliny  who  noticed  this  fdjct^ 
account  for  it  hy  supposing  the  fish  to  see  better  with  the  right  eye  than  with 
the  left.  U  is  borwev^  moie  natural  to  suppose  that  the  prerailmg  winds 
•are  the  cause,  for  when  the  fish  enter  the  channel  they  are  chiefly  from  the 
south,  and  when  they  return  from  the  north ;  the  fish  therefore  prefer 
the  smooiSi  water  ui^ier  ihe  weather  shore.  These  fish  are  also  said  ta 
spawn  in  the  Italian  Seas« 


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r^ji. 


13G  MARITIME   GEOGRAPHY. 

rooms  opening  one  into  the  other,  the  nets  which 
conapose  them  being  kept  in  a  peipendicular  position 
by  floats  and  weights.    The  outer  apartment,  called 
the  hall,  has  an  opening  through  which  the  fish 
enter,  and  when  it  is  fiill  the  opening  is  closed  by 
another  piece  of  net,  let  down  by  the  fishermen 
who  attend  in  the, boat.  The  fish  are  then  frighten- 
.  ed  by  tJie  noise  of  the  men  into  the  second  apart- 
ment,  and  so  on  to  the  others,  there  being  from 
four  to  eight,  until  they  get  into  the  last,  which  is 
called  the  chamber  of  death,  and  when  this  is 
full  the  nets  that  form  it  are  raised  to  bring  the 
fish  to  the  surface,  when  they  are  killed  with  spears 
and  harpoons.     This  fishery  is  also  carried  to  a 
considerable  extent  on  the  coast  of  Valencia,  from 
April  to  September,  with  nets  in  the  same  man- 
ner, called  ahnadrabaSy  and  on  the  coast  of  Sar- 
dinia, the  fisheries  of  which  produce  upwards  of 
^70,000  a  year,  about  50,000  fish  being  taken. 
Tiie  Sicilians  carry  on  this  fishery  near  the  isles  of 
Maretirao,  &c.  and  the  Neapolitans  in  the  Gulf 
of  Tarenta.    The  Italian  name  of  the  netted  apart- 
ments is  tonnario.     The  female  fish  are  much  the 
largest,   weighing  from    800  to  1,200  lb.      The 
method  of  curing  is  by  cutting  off  the  head  and 
dividing  the  fish  in  six  or  eight  pieces :  it  is  then 
either  simply  salted,  or  is  boiled  and  preserved  in 
oil.    The  belly  pieces  are  preferred  forth  is  last  pur- 
pose, and  the  fish  thus  prepared  is  called  by  the 
French  thon  marine^  and  by  the  Italians  tarentilla^ 
from  its  being  prepared  chiefly  at  Tarenta  j  the 
livers  and  roes  are  also  salted. 

The 


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THE  MEDITERRANEAN.  137 

The  anchovy  affords  one  of  the  most  productive  !^ 
branches  of  the  industry  of  the  people  of  the 
Mediterranean  ;  these  fish  enter  this  sea  in  shoals 
in  May,  June,  and  July.  The  preparation  consists 
in  cutting  off  the  head  which  is  said  to  be  bitter, 
emptying  the  inside,  salting  and  packing  in  little 
barrels  for  commerce.  The  most  esteemed  are 
those  taken  near  the  island  of  Gorgona,  and  the 
people  of  Frejus  are  considered  the  most  expert  in 
curing  them.  The  French  also  take  great  quan- 
tities of  sprats  on  their  coasts,  which  they  both 
smoke  and  salt.  The  season  of  this  last  fishery  is 
from  December  to  March.  The  Valencians  also 
occupy  themselves  with  this  fishery  as  well  as  the 
Italians. 

The  sword  fish  is  principally  tacken  in  the  Gulfs 
of  Genoa  and  Messina ;  ift  the  latter,  the  fishery 
commences  on  the  Calabrian  shore  in  April  and 
lasts  till  July,  when  it  begins  on  the  opposite 
coast  of  Sicily  and  lasts  till  August.  The  reason 
of  this  variation  is  that  the  fish  enter  the  gulf 
from  the  north  close  along  the  Calabrian  shore, 
and  in  their  return  from  the  south  keep  close  to 
the  Sicilian  shore.  Twenty  to  thirty  feluccas  and 
a  number  of  smaller  boats  are  employed  in  this 
fishery,  which^is  carried  on  with  nets  cslledpalmi' 
doreSf  or  else  the  fish  are  harpooned. 

The  other  fisheries  of  the  Mediterranean  only 
supply  the  daily  demand  of  the  inhabitants, 
though  very  productive  ones  might  be  established 
in  several  parts,  particularly  round  the  Balearic 
islands,  but  the  inhabitants  of  which  are  either  too 

timid 


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158  MARITIME  GEOGBAPqY. 

St  timid  or  too  indolent  to  venture  from  the  shwes, 
and  consequently  they  only  take  small  fish  of  no 
value. 

The  little  relish  which  the  Turks  have  for  fish^ 
as  well  as  their  indolence,  prevents  their  carrying 
the  fisheries  to  any  extent.  The  Greeks  are  how- 
ever more  industrious,  and  rent  from  the  Turk- 
ish government  the  considerable  fisheries  in  the 
lagoon  at  the  entrance  of  the  gulf  of  L.epanto. 
The  fish  cliicfly  taken  here  are  mullet,  which  are 
dried  in  the  sun  for  the  internal  consumption  of 
the  Greeks  during  tlieir  fasts,  and  the  roes  made 
into  boutaraga,  a  kind  of  inferior  caviar,  which  is 
exported  to  the  south  of  France  and  Italy.  The 
preparation  of  this  object  consists  in  highly  salt- 
ing the  roes,  pressing  them  between  boards,  and 
then  washing  and  drying  them  in  tlie  sun,  or 
smoking ;  it  is  eaten  with  oil. 

The  mackarel,  as  well  as  the  tunny  fish  and 
anchovy,  is  a  periodical  visiter  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean. Some  writers  have  also  given  the  herrii^ 
to  this  sea,  but  the  fish  called  harengade  and  celerin 
on  the  coast  of  France,  is  now  ascertained  to  be 
only  a  large  ^at.  The  red  turraulet  aboujodk  on 
the  coast  of  Egypt,  particularly  in  winter;  the 
raia  aquila^  is  also  chiefly  met  on  this  coast :  ttie 
barbel  is  mostly  found  on  the  lakes  of  Naples. 

The  murama  heknaj  or  romamij  is  picciperly  a 
salt  water  eel,  but  is  bred  in  the  fresh  waters  of 
Italy.  It  was  esteemed  one  of  the  greatest  luxu- 
ries by  the  antient  Romans,  and  to  so  ridiculaus^* 
height  did  these  masi;^rs  of  tbe  world  carr^  their 

attachment 


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^OtftiielMPOlit  to  ikds  -fiib,  Ibat  H^rteMius,  a  cde- 
toated  prater,  Vf^t  on  the  death  4)f  a  favourite 
0el»  and  Craasus^  aooth^  orator,  superlative  in 
folly,  went  into  meupmng  for  one  of  his,  while 
another  Romaa  mtfa  unexampled  atrocity,  am- 
oving that  the  eek  acquired  a  mate  deUcioua 
ibirour  by  being  fed  on  human  fleda,  caused  his 
alaves  accused  of  any  crime  to  be  thrown  into 
the  ponds  to  be  devoured  by  them.* 

The  cavalio  marina  of  the  Italians  (hippocampue) 
4d)aunds  in  the  gulf  of  Naples  and  the  Adriatic, 
where  it  is  washed  up  dead  on  the  shores,  and  when 
dried  is  preserved  as  a  curiosity,  the  head  having 
aresembl^K!e  to  that  of  the  horse,  and  the  tail  to 
that  of  the  shriiB|i.  The  Italian  women  take  it 
inwardly  to  incnease  their  aiilk,  and  use  it  exter- 
audly  as  an  anodyne  io  the  breast :  bruised  with 
iioney  and  vinegar  it  is  also  applied  to  the  part 
Intteo  by  a  nad  dog. 

The  gadus  imautas  arrives  periodically,  and  its 
afipearance  in.  hu^  shoals  is  a  joyful  omen  to  the 
&lMnnen,  as  it  denotes  l^ir  being  followed  by 
fttmba^  of  lai^  fish,  who  make  them  their  food. 
Some  travdkrs  tell  us  that  the  gadus  morhm,  or 
great  4mm1  equal  to  that  cC  Newfoundland^  and 
weighiDgifom  six  to  thirty  pounds,  is  taken  in  the 
^ulf  <x£  Akxandretta  onfy  ;  but  J:his  is  evident^ 
an\^!i0r* 

Though  instances  have  occurred,  both  in  antient 

and 

^  TtiU  monster  was  Vedlus  PoUion^  the  intimate  companion  of  An- 
S«tug. 


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140  MARITIME  GEOailAFHt; 

^'  and  modern  times,  of  great  cetaceous  animals 
c«uceouf.  jjgjjjg  taken  in  the  Mediterranean,  they  are  only 
to  be  considered  as  individuals  having  gone  astray. 
Pliny  relates  that  a  whale  got  into  the  port  of 
Ostia,  in  the  reign  of  Claudius,  and  that  the 
killing  it  aflbrded  a  grand  f6te  to  the  cocknies  of 
Rome.  A  pike-headed  whale,  100  feiet  long,  was 
taken  near  the  island  of  Corsica  in  16^,  and  in 
1790  a  round-nosed  whale  was  killed  on  the  coast 
of  Provence. 

Of  the  lesser  cetaceous  animals,  this  sea  habi- 
tually possesses  the  grampus,  delpfunus  orcoy^  the 
delphmus  fereSy  the  common  porpoise,  delphkms 
phocamoj  and  the  bottle-nosed  porpoise,  delphmus 
delphiSy  the  dolphin  of  naturalists.  The  modem 
Greeks  have  a  great  veneration  for  this  latter,  pro- 
bably from  a  traditional  remembrance  of  the  ser- 
vice it  did  their  ancestors,  in  occasionally  trans- 
porting them  on  the  waves,  and  the  Turks  and 
Sclavonians  have  adopted  the  same  superstition. 
AmphiMoiif.  Of  amphibious  animals  of  the  genus  phocti,  tte 
Mediterranean  has  three  species;  the  common 
seal,  phoca  vituUna,  the  hooded  seal,  phoca  moma- 
chtiSy  and  the  little  seal,  phoca  pusilku  These 
animals  frequent  the  desert  isles,  particularly  of  the 
Ionian  Sea  and  the  Archipelago,  and  the  Zanttots 
are  the  only  people  that  make  the  taking  them  for 
their  skins  and  fat  an  object  of  general  pursuitt 

Two 

*  Ariosto  describes  a  battle  between  Orlando  and  a  grampus. 
t  The  poetic  fable  of  Proteus  and  his  troop  in  the  Odyssef,  proves 
Homer  to  have  been  well  acquainted  with  the  seal. — ^Book  IV. 


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Two  species  of  sea-turtle  are  met  in  the  Medi- 
terranean, the  loggerhead  and  hawksbill:  the  former 
is  common  on  the  coasts  of  Sardinia,  and  the  lat- 
ter most  abundant  on  the  sandy  desert  coasts  of 
Africa.  The  upper  shell  of  one  of  these  animals, 
with  cords  q£  bowels  or  sinews,  formed  the  first 
lyre  of  the  Greeks  ;  "  when  Music,  he^v'nly  maid, 
yrss  young.*' 

The  sea4Hrds  which  inhabit  the  Mediterranean  sm  bir<u. 
are  several  species  of  the  gull  and  diver,  the  storm 
petrel,  tern,  or  sea  swallows,  wildduclcs. 


MEDITERRANEAN— SPAIN. 

The  Spanish  coast,  from  Gibraltar  to  Malaga,  com»u, 
presents  a  chain  of  lofty  mountains.  Sierra  de 
Ifermeja^  <§tr.*  but  has  few  points  of  note.  Cape 
Sacrati^  east  of  Motril,  is  a  high  point.  The  gulf 
of  Almeria  is  limited  on  the  west  by  point  Elena, 
oil  which  is  a  castle,  and  on  the  east  by  Cape  de 
Qatte  (Charklemum)s  a  high  steep  rocky  promon^ 
tory,  with  a  light-house.  These  points  are  seven 
leagues  asunder. 

The  bay  of  Carthagena(FirgiftiiM«)  is  between 
Cape  Tinosa  <m  the  west,  on  which  is  port  Trini- 
dad and  a  light-house,  and  off  it  two  large  rocks, 
called  the  Osmigas  and  Cape  Palos  (Schambraria) 
on  the  north.    From  ,this  latter  cape  a  narrow 

neck 

•  These  ridget  rest  on  a  haae  of  ^anite  ^  but  the  upper  strata  near  the 
•urfoce  are  of  marble  and  quartz. 


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14C  If  ABirmB  GEOonArar. 

neck  of  land  runs  nearly  due  nordit  lAkh, 
though  now  joined  to  the  c?^e  is  cdted  Isle 
Grossa,  and  wkhin  which  the  coast  forms  a  bend, 
making  a  kind  of  lagoon,  named  Mar  Menor^ 
little  sea,  twelve  miles  long,  and  five  wide,  with 
deveral  islands,  but  so  shoal  as  only  to  admiC 
boated  Between  Cape  Palos  and  AHcMt  the  land! 
is  high,  and  the  water  deep  close  to  the  shore; 
On  this  port  of  the  coast  is^  the  lagoon  of  Mata, 
separated  from  the  sea  by  a  high  narrow  bank, 
and  towards  the  land  bounded  immediately  by 
high  mountains.  A  great  quantity  of  salt  is 
formed  in  the  lagoon  by  natural  evaporation, 
100,000  tons  of  which  have  beeny  in  «ome  years, 
exported  to  Holland,  the  Baltic,  and  England. 

The  bay  of  Alicantf  (fXcitanus)  is  liifcited  on  the 
floath  by  Cape  S^tta  Pola,  and  on  the  north  by 
Ca|)e  de  la  Huerta^.  S.E.  of  the  formed  tvto  mile^ 
is  the  little  isiand  Fkna,  (low)  or  new  Tabaf ca, 
which  latter  name  it  received  in  consequence  of 
Charles  HI.  having  assigned  it  as  an  asylum  fot 
a  number  of  Spanish  galley  slaves,  whom  he  rarf- 
somed  from  the  Algerines,  at  tfhe  island  of  Tabarca, 
on  the  coast  of  Baibary,  with  the  intention  of 
forming  a  port  witfain  the  Plana  island;  but  it 
being  a  barren  sand,  destitute  not'  only  of  wood 
and  water,  but  even  of  earth  or  stone,  the  pr<!gect 
f&U  to  the  ground.  The  clmnnel  between  the 
island  and  the  main  hag  depth  for  the  largest 
ships ;  but  in  it  is  a  dangerous  rock,  and  others 
off  the  island  to  the  S,W.  and  S.    The  antieqK 

caAtle 


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MJSmr&BRAKEAN— -SPASf.  143 

castle  of  the  duke  ot  Arcos  is  a  little  south  of 
C^ipe  Santa  Fola. 

The  island  of  ^enidorme  lies  off  a  mountain 
cape  of  the  same  name,  the  southern  limit  of 
Altea  bay.  West  of  the  village  of  Altea  is  a  hill^ 
with  a  remarkable  lai^  gap,  called  ChuchiUado  de 
Moldan. 

The  gulf  of  Valencia  is  limited  on  the  south  by 
a  great  projecticm  of  the  coast  opposite  the  island 
of  Ivi9a,  of  which  Cj^  Martin  is  the  northern- 
moat  and  m68t  conspicuohs  point  It  is  the  an- 
cient Artemsitmij  Tenebrium^  and  Ferraria^  the 
first  of  which  names  it  received  from  a  large  town 
near  it,  on  the  site  of  which  Denia  now  stands ; 
and  the  two.  latter  from  the  iron  mines  in  the 
vicinity.  The  name  of  Artemisium  is  still  pre* 
set^ed  in  ArtenmSy  given  to  the  cape  by  the 
natives.  Tliat  of  Cape  Martin  has  been  given  it 
by  the  French  j  but  it  is  generally  known  to 
English  seamen  by  that  of  Emperor's  Point.  It  is 
a  high  steep  headland,  with  three  lights  or  fire^ 
beacons  on  it ;  and  a  high  island^  Pitymas  Isle  c^ 
Pines^  close  to: it..  Between  it  and  Cape  de  la  Nao^ 
on  ibe  souths  is  a  deep  bay,  whose  shores  are 
ccmiposed  of  faU^e  diflb  of  limestone  and  alabaster, 
and  where  i»  seen  a  vast  cavern,  the  retreat  of 
innumeraUe  wld  pigeon.  These  capes  terminate 
a  sierra,  omiof  wkase  summits,  named  McmgeTf 
risies  to  a  very  etevated  peak.. 

The  Albufeira  of  Valencia  is  a  lake  oi  fresh 
Water^  four  leagues  long  and  two  broad,  separated 
from  the  se*  by  a  narrow  sand*bank,    through. 

which 


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144  MARITIMB  OEQGBA^HT. 

which  a  channel  has  been  cut  to  let  off  the  Occa- 
sional superabundant  waters.  This  bank,  named 
the  Dekesa^  is  covered  with  pines  and  willows, 
and  abounds  with  rabbits.  The  lake  has  depth 
for  small  boats,  is  full  of  fish,  and  the  resort  of 
great  numbers  of  sea  birds ;  the  catching  and 
shooting  of  which  is  one  of  the  winter's  amuse* 
ments  of  the  inhabitants  of  Valencia.  This  lake 
is  the  property  of  the  crown,  and  is  farmed  for 
12,000  piasters  per  annum. 

The  Ebro  has  formed  at  its  mouth  two  penin- 
sulas,  and  several  banks  and  islands*  The  southern 
peninsula  bends  round  and  encloses  the  port  of 
Alfaques,  whose  entrance  is  from  the  south,  and 
which  has  a  depth  of  five  to  seven  fathoms*  As 
the  stream  of  the  Ebro,  during  a  great  part  of  the 
year,  runs  out  witli  a  velocity  that  precludes  the 
assent  of  any  kind  of  vessel,  it  has  been  proposed 
to  enlarge  the  canal,  from  the  port  of  Alfaques, 
at  Saiut  Carlos,  to  Emposta,  on  the  Ebro,  so  as  to 
admit  large  vessels  through  the  port  of  Alfaques  to 
Tortosa.  The  northern  peninsula,  formedby  the  mud 
of  the  Ebro,  encloses  the  port  oiP  Fangal.  Between 
Tarragona  and  Barcelona  the  coast  rises  in  peaks, 
named  the  hills  of  Garaff;  and  farther  north,  the 
lofty  and  solitary  mmmtain  of  Montserrat  pre- 
sents its  ^arp  points,  and  is  seen  even  from 
Magarca  and  Minorca,  a  distance  of  fifty  leagues. 

The  Bay  or  Gulf  of  Roses  is  sheltered  from  all 
winds  but  S.E.  Cape  Creus,  the  last  remarkable 
promontory  of  Spain,  is  a  terminating  point  of 
the  Pyrennees,  whence  its  ancient  name  <rf  Pyren- 


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MimiTSHBAIIEAN— SPAIK.  145 

fwtum ;  it  was  also  called  Aphrodisium,  from  a 
temple  of  Venus,  of  which  there  remains  no 
vest^.  It  is  a  high  cape  with  a  light.  Nine  miles 
farther  N.W.  is  Cape  Cervera,  the  last^point  of 
Spain. 

On  the  coasts  of  Spain,  both  within  and  without 
the  Strait  of  Gibraltar,  are  a  grieat  number  of 
towers*  (Jorre)  and  little  fortresses  (castettd)  to  pro- 
tect the  coast  against  .the  depredations  of  the 
Barbary  pirates.  The  towers  have,  circular  fronts  , 
towatiob  the  sea,  with  low  parapets  to  work  the 
gnos  (en  barbef)^  with  a  curtain  and  two  flanking 
bastions  in  the  rear;  the  only  entrance  is  by  a 
door  near  half  way  from  the  top,  and  through 
wfaieh  the  rope  ladder  that  serves  to  ascend  is 
drawn  up. 

The  vicinity  of  the  mountains  to  the;  Mediter-  lifm. 
ranean  coast  of  Spain  cause  most  cf  the  rivers  to 
partake  of  the  nature  of  torrent^  which  are  much 
swollen  in  the  winter  and  spring,  and  very  low  in 
the  summer.     They  are  in  succession.  , 

Qu^ai^Baio^(Barbastsla)9  empties  itself  east  of 
Gibraltar.  ^ 

Giiaddbarza  tod  Rio  Verte,  between  Estapona 
and  Marbella,  off  the  Rio  Verte,  are  two  smaD 
iaiands,  with  good  anchorage  within  them. 

Gordo  and  Real  Guadaisa,  between  Marbella 
and  Malaga. 
Guadal-Medina,  at  Malaga. 
Fria  empties  itself  east  of  Velez  Malaga. 
AdiB,  at  Adra. 

.  run.  u.  h  Aquas 


1 


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Port  Tovnj!, 
Andstu«ia. 


14l6  MIBITIMB  flOMEAnnrw 

Aquas  at  Mujacart 

Guadel-macer  or  Almanzoca,  whose  entrant  is 
defended  by  the  castle  of  Montrojr. 

Rio  Segura»  at  Guardamar. 

Alcoy,  at  Gundia* 

Xucar,  at  Cullenu 

Guadd-aviart  clear  vater,  (ancient  7^mia\  w/t 
Vakttoia. 

Palancaay  at  Murviedro* 

Servol,  atVinaros. 

The  Cenia  separatejs  Valencts  and  Catalonia* 

Efero  (Iierm\  the  greatest  river  of  Spuin,  hwrng 
a.  courae  of  980  mUes^  rises  in  the  mountama  of 
Aftturias. 

firanodi)  at  Tarragona;  its  waters  are  fiuacmsftv 
the  lustre  they  give  to  the  linen  washed  in  ihenu 
-  GayB».  at  VeodDslL 

,F<HX,  bA  Ciibellas« 
.  Xobregat  and  Besos,  3t  Barcelomu 

BfilfeViitt  SuEta  BoL  ; 

Tordero,  at  Pafeu 
'    Tier  (Sm^oco)  :  before  the  nivei^s  month  are 
the  three  islands  Medos  des  Estardes,  the  largest 
<lf  wbichiflt^ie  ittUe  and  ai.lalf  long^.-ana  has  a 
fort    ..  J   J  ..   .* 

Lobregat,  }(£uhicatus)^  and  fluvia,  into  tlbe 
Bsy/of  .R(«*a.    .   c 


A\gezi3^j(SCing€»tsra  asid  Mk  XmduciaL%  on 
the  west  shore  of  Gibraltar  Bay,  is  a  snuiilibtftMied 
town  at  the  mouth  of-*elfttle  brackish  river  La 

MieL 


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THS  MSDITBREAKlBAK — &9AIK.  147 

MieL  It  receives  its  fresh  water  by  an  aqueduct  Ponjoww. 
of  hewn  stone  from  the  distance  of  a  quarter  of  a  ^^^^^^ 
league.  Its  trade  is  confined  to  receiving  a  few 
cargoes  of  brandy  and  com  by  Catalonian  vessels^ 
and  to  the  export  of  charcoal  of  the  neighbouring 
mountains  to  Cadiz.  A  packet-boat  sails  twice  a 
week  from  hence  to  Ceuta.  Off  the  town  a  mile 
is  the  little  island  Palomas,  covered  by  a  fort, 
whence  the  town  derives  its  name,  signifying  in 
Arabic  an  island. 

The  celdbrated  rode  of  Gibraltar,  the  ancient 
Calpe,  is  a  peninsular  mass  of  mountain  three 
mileB  longy  north  and  south,  and  one  mile  broad* 
Its  highest  point  1,439  feet  above  the  sea,  and  com- 
mands  a  view  of  forty  leagues  in  every  direction. 

The  rock  is  in  general  calcareous ;  and  on  blow- 
ing it  up,  fossil  bones  and  teeth  have  been  found, 
which  at  first  were  supposed  to  be  human,  but  are 
now  known  to  belong^  quadrupeds.  The  rock 
has  also  several  caverns,  of  which  that  <rf  St.  Mi^ 
cbael,  on  the  west,  is  the  largest ;  it  is  1,1 10  feet 
above  the  level  of  tte  sea.  The  rain  water  con- 
tinually Urates  throtlgh  and  formd  stalactites, 
some  of  which  extend  from  the  roof  to  the  bottom, 
forming  columns  two  feet  in  diameter,  and  which 
eontinuaiiy  increase  in  bulk. 

The  rock  is  joined  to  the  continent  by  a  low 
•andy  pish),  which  towards  the  Mediterranean 
is  several  feet  more  elevated  thaif  towards  the  bay, 
an  eflkrt  produced  by  the  strong  Levant  winds  and 
waves  accumukting  the  sands  on  the  former.  Thi^ 
phin  is  caressed  from  ^ide  to  side  by  a  W!^  named 

L  2  the 


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14i8  ICARITIME .  G£00aAPHT# 

^«rt  jwn,.  the  Spanish  Linesj  about  three  quarters  of  a  ittile 
AodaiusMu  (listant  from  the  foot  of  the  rock ; .  the  spaces  be- 
tween is  called  the  neutral  ground,  arid  serves  as  a 
promenade  to  the  garrison. '  The  wall  is  defended 
towards  the  Mediterranean  by  the  fort  of  St.  Bar- 
bara, and  towards  the  *  bay  by  fort  St.  Philip.  In 
approaching  the  rock  from  the  Lines,  some  shallow 
lagoons  formed  by  the  sea  on  each  side  almost  in- 
sulate \%y  leaving  only  a  nanow  causeway,  having 
the  water  of  the  bay  on  one  side  and  a  lagoon  on 
tlie  other  j  and  this  causeway,  by  which  alone  the 
rock  can  be  approached,  is  commanded  by  all  the 
guns  on  its  north  face.  Lookii;^  up  from  this  cause- 
way towards  the  rock,  which  is  almost  perpendi- 
cular, innumerable  embrasures  are  seen  in  parallel 
lines.  The  east  or  Mediterranean  face  of  the  rock 
is  composed  of  inaccessible  cli£&  1,000  feet  liigh. 

Excavations  have  been  formed  in  the  rock  by 
blasting,  capable  of  holding  the  entire  garrison ; 
^nd  these  subterranean  barracks  communicate  with 
all  tl^e  batteries  4)y  passages  of  the  same  kind,  all 
of  which  may  be  traversed  on  horseback.  Eight 
bomb-proof  cisterns,  each  containing  40,000  tons, 
are  kept  constantly  full  of  water  by  collecting  all 
the  little  mns  on  the  west  side  of  the  rock,  and 
the  water  is  allowed  to  deposit  its  sediment  in  im- 
mense troughs  before  it  is  let  into  the  cisterns*. 

On  the  west  side^  is  the  town,  consisting  of  a 
principal  street,  half  a  mile  long,  and  containing 
3,000  inhabitants,  English,  Spaniards  and  Jews } 
each  religion  having  its  separate  place  gS^  worship 
and  burying  ground.    The  town  is  surrounded  by 

a  strong 


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THE   M1EDITERRANEAN— SPAIN.  149 

ft  strong  wall,  supported  by  bastions  and  other  po^^j^** 
works,  and  was  formerly  under  strict  military  re-  ^"^''"^"• 
gulations,  no  inhabitant  being  allowed  to  be  out 
of  his  home  after  eleven  o'clock  without  express 
permission  from  the  governor,  and  neither  hawkers 
or  beggars  were  permitted  in  it.  The  abuses  and 
vexations  consequent  to  this  species  of  govern- 
ment, induced  the  parliament  to  erect  it  into  a 
body  corporate,  and  the  civil  power  is  now  lodged 
in  its  magistrates.  Vessels  lay  within  three  moles ; 
1.  the  old  mole,  at  the  north  end  of  the  town,  for 
mepehant  vessels  of  burden ;  2.  the  sloops'  mole, 
at  the  south  extremity  of  the  town ;  and  3.  the 
new  mole,  one  mile  and  a  half  north  of  Europa 
Point,  which  is  particularly  destined  to  receive 
ships  of  war,  the  largest  laying  within  it  perfectly 
sheltered  from  the  S.  W.  winds,  the  only  ones  to  be 
dreaded  in  the  bay.  This  mole  is  300  feet  long, 
and  is  built  on  arches ;  here  is  the  marine  arsenal, 
and  a  large  naval  hospital. 

The  garrison  of  Gibraltar  is  6,000  men,  and  the 
annual  expense  to  government  dSySfiOO  sterling. 

Gribraltar  is  a  free  port,  and  most  of  the  trading 
nations  have  resident  consuls  here.  The  English, 
Americans,  Danes,  Swedes  and  Dutch,  bring 
hither  tobacco,  sugar,  coffee,  cotton  and  other  co- 
lonial produce,  which  the  Jews  and  Spaniards 
smuggle  into  Spain  both  by  land  and  sea,  and  get  in 
return  dried  fruits,  wines,  brandy,  silk  and  specie. 

The  English  have  spared  nothing  to  render  this 
barren  and,  in  summer,  burning  rock,  if  not  an 
agreeable,  at  least  a  supportable,  residence.  The 

I-  3  little 


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Port  Townu 
Audaliuuu 


150  MARITIME  GEOGRAPHY. 

little  soil  to  be  found  on  it  has  been  collected  into 
the  most  favourable  spots,  where  it  is  retained  by 
little  stone  walls,  and  covered  with  fruit  trees. 
Carriage  roads  are  cut  through  the  whole  length 
of  the  rock ;  and  it  has  several  pleasant  country 
houses  in  the  midst  of  gardens.  The  Champ  cb 
Mars  is  a  square  space  surrounded  by  rows  o( 
trees,  sufficiently  extensive  for  the  whole  garrisoii 
to  parade. 

In  1704  Gibraltar  was  taken  by  the  English  and 
Dutch  combined  forces,  under  the  command  of  Sir 
George  Rook,  and  this  in  a  manner  that  deserves 
relating.  Eighteen  hundred  men  were  first  landed 
on  the  isthmus,  but  an  attempt  on  that  side  being 
found  useless  they  were  re-embarked,  and  an  at» 
tack  was  made  by  the  shipping,  from  which  wer* 
fired  15,000  shots  without  making  any  impression 
on  the  works.  At  last  a  few  boats*  cre^^s,  who 
were  rowing  guard  off  the  new  mole,  having  ap* 
proached  close  to  it,  without  being  paid  any  at* 
tention  to  by  the  soldiers  in  the  battery,  were  en* 
couraged  to  land,  and  having  got  on  the  mole, 
hoisted  a  red  jacket  as  a  signal  of  possession  ^ 
which  being  observed  by  the  fleet,  more  boats  and 
sailors  were  sent,  who  landed  in  like  manner, 
stormed  and  took  the  battery,  and  soon  obliged 
the  town  to  surrender.  After  many  fruitless  at* 
tempts  to  recover  it,  it  wto  ceded  to  England  by 
the  treaty  of  Utrecht  Jn  I7IS.  Several  equally 
unsuccessful  attempts  have  been  since  made  to 
wrest  it  from  us,  the  most  decisive  of  which  was  in 
1782  by  the  French  and  %)amsh  combined  fieets, 

^nd 


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THS  MaMTJUtBAlfBAy--^FAiy>  151 

tsaA  %  grett  land  mmy,  which  ended  in  ihe  total  ^^^J^ 
destractkn  of  the  cmonnous  floating  batteries  by  a*^*^ 
redJuHflhot* 

SirrA^aifA,  a  town  of  S,5Q0  inhabitants,  on  the 
lieadit  off  which  vesada  anchor ;  about  tixty  amail 
^retseb  bekmg  to  it,  employed  chiefly  in  cany- 
ifig  fnot  to  Cadiz  and  Malaga.  Marbella,  at  the 
£)ot  of  a  hill,  has  1,100  inhabitantB,  and  twenty 
small  craft  also  eni|doyed  in  the  coasting  trade  to 
Cadiz,  Mals^a,  Ceuta,  &c«  Fiangerola,  a  fortifi* 
4^on  on  the  side  of  a  hill,  of  Ro9ian  foundation, 
and  of  Moorish  superstructure ;  at  its  foot  is  a 
amall  town,  whose  inhabitants  are  employed  in  the 
sardiiie  and  anchovy  fishery. 

Malaoa,  on  the  Guadalmedina,  founded  by  the 
Hienidansy  by  the  name  of  Malochi,  from  the 
quantity  of  salt-fish  sold  here,  has  50,000  inha- 
Intants,  and  is  built  at  the  foot  of  a  hill,  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  dooble  waU,  flanked  with  Iiigb 
towerst,  and  commanded  by  a  Mocmsh  castle  on  a 
xock.  The  cathedral  is  said  to  be  as  large  as  St. 
Paul's,  and  it  has  besides  fourteen  parish  churches 
and  twenty*^two  monasteries  and  convents,  a^  hand- 
aome  cuatomrhouse,  a  royal  marine  arsenal,  and 
imay  Roman  antiquities.  It  has  only  a  pier  haven 
in  the  mouth  of  the  river  for  vessds  of  nine  or  ten 
£eeU  larger  ones  being  obliged  to  anchor  in  the 
jaoad  XRuch  ejLposed.  It  is  the  third  commercial 
€ity  df  Spaiut  exporting  chiefly  the  produce  of  its 
soil  and  fishery,  viz.  wines,  4ried,fruits,  oil,  and 
anchovies.  Its  manufactured  of)  any  consequence 
Me  silk^  thread,  hats,  soap  and  paper.    In  IJSQp 

h  4  100  English 


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Foft  TolM9* 
GreiMuU. 


152  MARITIHB  OEOORAPHT. 

100  English  ships  entered  and  ten  French.  It  h»B- 
about  twenty  merchant  brigs  and  snows  belonging 
to  it,  and  in  1804  liad  sixty  commercial  houses. 

Velez  {old)  Malaga,  a  handsome  little  town 
east  of  Malaga,  though  formerly  on  the  beadi  is' 
now  a  league  from  it,  the  sea  continually  retiring 
from  this  part  of  the  coast.  It  exports  some  fruit 
ijo  Malaga,  by  a  village  on  a  deep  cove  before  it« 
Ahnunecar  {Manoba\  an  insignificant  place  on  a 
cove,  before  which  is  an  island  with  a  fortified 
tower.  Salobrena,  a  small  town  where  coasting 
vessels  load  fruit :  off  it  is  an  island  with  a  passage 
within  it  in  fourteen  fathoms.  Motrill,  a  small 
town  two  miles  from  the  sea,  on  the  river  Oigiva. 
Castel  de  Ferro,  on  a  hill  close  to  the  sea,  exports 
some  wool  coastwise.  Adra  (Abdera),  on  the  river 
<^  the  same  name,  is  a  small  place. 

Almeria  (Mtirgis)^  at  the  head  of  a  laige  bay, 
was  antiently  the  most  commercial  city  of  Spain, 
but  at  present  is  insignificant  both  as  to  population 
and  trauie,  having  only  10,000  inhabitants,  and  its 
exports  being  confined  to  some  barilla  and  lead. 
Mujacar,  is  an  insignificant  town,  and  Alma^uroo,  a 
Murda.  village  with  an  island  before,  it,  on  which  is  a 
lightrhouse,  and  .a  fortified  town,  on  the  west 
side  of  the  cove. 

Carthagena  (Carthago  Nava)^  founded  by 
Asdrubal  the  Carthaginian  General,  is  one  of 
the  three  royal  ports.  Its  harbour  is  one  of  the 
best  of  Spain,  b^ing  a  natural  basin  surrounded  by 
hills :  the  entrance  fa  defended  by  two  redoubts 
and  by  a  battery  of  twelve  guns  on  a  mole.     The 

marine 


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THE  MEDITEBRANEAN — SPAIN.    ,  15S 

marine  arsenal  is  spacious  and  protected  by  forty  p* 
gtins  towards  the  water.     It  employs  6,500  men,  •'•"^ 
and  the  population  of  the  city  is  28,000.     The 
principal  exports  are  wool  and  barilla.   A  great 
quantity  of  rope  and  cables  is  made  here  of  the 
E^arto  rush. 

Cervera,  a  small  town  of  1,300  inhabitants,  Y^iend.. 
south  of  the  cape  <rf  the  same  name.  Giiardamar, 
at  the  mouth  of  Rio  Segura,  exports  ssdt.^ 
Ta  Mata,  a  small  town,  near  the  lagoon  of 
the  same  name,  defended  by  a  castle,  where  a 
iramfber  of  small  vessels  load  salt 

Alicant  (Ltwentum)j  the  fourth  commercial 
€tty  of  Spain,  has  17,000  inhabitants.  It  is  si- 
tuated in  the  northern  extremity  of  a  bay,  at 
this  foot  of  a  hill,  on  whose  summit  is  a  castle, 
commanding  the  town  and  communication  with  it 
by  a  passage  between  two  walls.  It  has  only  a 
]^r  haven  for  small  craft,  large  vessels  being 
obliged  to  anchor  out  in  the  bay,  three  miles  from 
the  town,  in  seven  fathoms.  Alicant  is  the  en- 
trepot of  the  commercial  productions  of  Valencia 
smd  Mureia,  consisting  of  soap,  wine,  wool,  fruit, 
•alt,  barilla,  kermes,  aniseed,  antimony,  alum, 
vermilion,  &c.  which  are  exported  by  eight  io 
900  ships  annually. 

Benidorrae,  a  large  and  handsome  fishing  village. 

Altea  Nuova  and  Altea  Vieza,  on  the  left 
and  right  banks  of  a  river,  are  villages  which 
ex^rt  costwise  some  wines,  silk,  flax,  and  honey. 
Cabea  or  Xavea,  on  a  large  cove,  with  anchorage 
in  twdve  to  fifteen  fathoms.     Denia,  2,000  in^ 

habitants. 


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154  HAMTIlfB  OEO01UPBT. 

habitante  {Artemdum  and  Dia$uum\  fonoded  hj 
Vaiencte.  ^^  MaTseiUais  in  honour  of  Diana,  is  a  small 
t0wh,  north  of  Cape  Martin,  and  on  a  eove,  ia 
which  large  sliips  anchor  in  six  aiui  seven  fathoodfli 
It  has  also  a  pier  haven  for  vessels  of  eight  or 
nine  feet,  Oliva,  a  town  a  mile  frorti  the  sfaorei 
Oimdia,  a  town  of  5,000  inhabitants,  on  the 
Aicoy,  whose  mouth  forms  a  port,  cdled  the 
Orao  de  Ganidia.  CuUera,  a  small  town  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  Xucar,  visited  by  snuU  craft 
chiefly  to  load  rice. 

Valencia,  surnamed  the  handsome,  fllthocf;!^ 
dUxording  to  the  description  of  it  by  travolkrs^  it 
little  deserves  this  name,  the  streets  being  Mr* 
tow,  crooked^  not  pave4  and  the  houses  ill  buitt 
and  dirty.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  rampart  apd  hai 
a  ditadd  of  little  strength.  Its  population  ia 
100,000,  of  which,  before  the  French  invasioot 
9i6ld  were  priests,  monks,  and  mans.  It  is  ai# 
tuated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Ghiadalaviar,  three 
leagues  from  its  mouth.  Sa3ing  vessels  cannot 
ascend  the  river,  but  anchor  on  the  road^  called 
Grab  de  Valencia,  befbne  t^  river's  moilth^ 
where  they  are  entirely  exposed,  nor  has  it  dven  a 
commodious  landing  place  ;*  nevertheless  it 
exports  the  productions  of  which  Valencia  h 
the  depot,  and  which  are  the  same  as  those  ex* 

ported 

«  ConstderaMe  sums  hare  been  btterly  expeniM  In  the  attempt  t$  fiam 
%  port  with  eighteen  feet  water  by  sinking  cones,  but  the  wares  wash  in  th|i 
aancl  as  fast  as  it  is  cleared  out,  and  the  expense  and  labour  hav6  been 
( entirely  thrown  away. 


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THE  iin««tAA)dlAI^-^tfAlN,  1^ 

pmied  fimn  Altcimt*     The  0rfie  vOkge  ii  dM  Poni^. 
frequented  for  sea  bathing.    The  princqwll  trading  vaiehta. 
maiom  have  resident    eomul»  at  YAeiaeiA^    It 
}tos  extensire  mamifaetui'es  of  mllik 
P1120I  and  Aldiacera  are  little  toWns^ 
MuftviBtiRO,  a  town  of  5^000  inbatntants^  Ob 
the  right  bafik  of  the  rivet  of  the  satiie  ntOhty  ttt 
Palando^  a  kagde  from  iu  tn^ulh^     It  k  sttf- 
lounded  by  old  Moorish  w^ld^  Whence  is  derived 
its  name  {Muros  Vielos).     It  stands  ton  a  paft  df 
the  Site  of  the  arttimit  SMguni^m,  a  qbart*?  (rf'i  ttUe 
from  the  sea }  the  streets  ate  narrow  atld  ^k,  but 
the  suburbs  well  built     II16  citadel,  whioh  stJU 
retains  the  name  of  Sag&ntHi  occupies  tbfe  rtitite 
mimmit  of  a  high  rock :  k  is  surrounded  by  ttW* 
dem  walls,  and  has  bemdes  sdine  Moorish   fst^ 
tifieations  and  Aoman  antiqtilties )  iji  th6  tmiit6 
is  a  (covered  dster*>  SOD  lfe«t  lottg^  tweiitjr  wide, 
and  ertill  eighteet)  deep$  though  half  fflled  with 
nd)bish.     At  the  Ibdt  of  the  roek  are  ihA  ruina       1 
c^  the  Roman  theatre  worthy  of  particitflar  notice. 
The  Graoy  or  road  rf  Murviedro,  is  eittirefy  opeti 
and  the  bottom  foul.      Its  trade  is  confined  to  the 
export  of  some  brandy  coastwise. 

Villa  Reale  de  Nules,  4,000  inhabifanti*.  Pc- 
niscola,  2,000  inhabitants,  is  in  an  open  bay  iii 
which  ships  anchor  in  ten  fathoms.  Benicarlo,  i. 
^hing  town  of  3,000  inhabitants,  one  league  and 
half  west  of  Peniscola,  is  celebrated  for  its  Wines. 
ViNARos,  a  league  from  BenicaHo,  on  the 
Servol,  has  5,000  inhabitants  and  a  considerable 
coasting  trade,  its  chief  export  being   brandy. 

Vessels 


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p0nT9mM, 


156  MARITIME  GEOGIUPHT. 

Vessels  of  fifty  tons  enter  the  river,  but  no  foreign 
cauioata.     vessels  are  permitted  to  load  here. 

San  Carlos,  in  the  port  i^  Alf^ues,  was  founded 
in  179s  by*  the  crown  as  a  fishing  station,  and 
principally  built  at  its  expense.  It  consists  of 
one  wide  but  short  street,  the  houses  uniform  have 
only  one  story.  Amposta  is  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  £bro,  four  leagues  from  the  sea  and  two 
leagues  from  St.  Carlos,  with  which  it  communi- 
cates by  a  canal. 

ToETOSA  (Dertosa),  on  a  hill  on  the  Ebro, 
two  leagues  above  Amposta,  has  16,000  inha. 
bitimts,  is  ill  built,  but  has  a  handsome  cathedral, 
and  an  old  castle  a  mile  square.  Its  exports  are 
confined  to  dried  fi^  and  barilla.  Lorpagne,  a 
neat  little  town  on  a  hill,  with  a  haven  formed, 
by  two  piers :  it  exports  some  wine  and  brandy 
coastwise.  Balaguer,  a  castle  on  a  hill  overlooking 
the  sea,  and  defending  a  pass  in  the  mountains, 
called  le  Col  de  Balaguer.  Cambrils,  a  town  of 
3,000  inhabitants,  on  a  litle  river.  Salo  and  Villa 
Seca,  small  towns  which  export  some  brandy* 
coastwise. 

Tarragona,  on  a  rocky  eminence,  near  the  left 
bank  of  the  Francoli,  a  quarter  of  a  league  from  its 
mouth.  It  has  9^000  inhabitants,  is  surrounded^ 
by  antient  Roman  walls  of  immense  strength,  and 
defended  by  two  castles.  The  cathedral  is  a 
magnificent  structure.  A  new  port  was  formed  to 
receive  large  vessek  in  1800,  and  it  has  an  ad- 
ministration of  marine.  Tarragona  is  supposed  to 
have  been  founded  by  the  Hienicians  2,000  years 

before 


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THE  MBDITEEEANEiUJ— ^»AIN.  1^ 

b^ore  the  Christian  era ;  its  Phemcian  name  of  PoriTt 
Tarpon  was  corrupted  by  the  Romans  into  Tar- 
raco*  Under  the  latter  it  was  the  capital  of 
Hispania  GteriaTf  and  according  to  some  his- 
torians contained  two  millions  and  a  half  of  in- 
habitants. Between  467  and  1713  it  sustained 
ten  regular  sieges,  and  was  several  times  taken 
and  the  inhabitants  put  to  the  sword.  In  I8O7  it 
was  besieged  by  the  French,  and  after  an  ob- 
stinate defence  capitulated  $  but  the  French 
soldiers  commanded  by  Suchet,  deservedly  sur- 
named  the  Butcher  of  TarragonOy  committed  as 
great  cruelties  as  if  the  place  hiul  been  taken  by 
.assault,  massacreing  the  de&iicdess  inhabitants 
without  r^ard  to  age  or:  sex.  It  exports  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  grain>  wines,  and  brandy. 
In  1805^  S08  square  rigged,  and  l,dO&  lateen 
]^^£S^  ve^s  entered  the  port,  of  which  number 
1,515  were  Spanish.  ,  '     . 

T^an,  Vendrei,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Gaya, 
Cubellas,  on  the  Foix,  are  insignificant.  Villa 
Nuova,  a  small  town  <m  the  beach,  bdfore  which 
vessels  anchor  in  seven  to  nine  fathoms.  It  has 
j^  haven  and  the  small  craft  belon^ng  to  it  are 
hauled  on  shore.  Sitgas,  a  mile  inland^  has  a 
coye  beibr^  it       ,  ^ 

Barcelona,  the  second  city  of  Spain  in.po- 
pulalion  and  commerce,  has  160,000  inhabitants^ 
and  is  sijfeuated  on  a  bend  of  the  shore,  be« 
twe^n  the  Lohr^at  on  the  south  and  the  Besos 
pn  the  north.  Its  port  is  formed  by  a  mole  on 
the.N.E.,  on  whose  extremity  is  ^  light-house* 

Withip 


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Wv^»<-  Witim  the  mole  the  depth  is  but  eigbt  feet,  and  k 
cUUy  diwioiftbing  by  th^  sand  dirown  into  it  from 
the  sea,  the  mole  preventing  any  offset.  The 
faud  of  the  Besos  and  Lobreg^  also  form  banks 
bei^re  the  entrance,  vesaela  of  burdetn  are  there- 
{^^  iMig^d  to  anchor  in  ^  road^  one  miie 
imd  half  from  shore,  and  entirdy  eicpos^  to  the 
aea,  The  st):^t9»  though  it  hm  some  good  ones, 
s^^  in  general  narrow  and  oroc^ed^  pav^  with 
large  iat  stpnes,  and  badly  lighted*  It  is  strmigly 
fortified  on  the  land  i^de  by  ramparts  and  bastions 
supported  iyy  extensive  outworks.  Mount  Jouy> 
a  strong  fort  on  a  hill  to  the  S.W.,  commands  the 
{ftort  and  town,  a  part  of  which  latt^er  is  also  com- 
manded by  a  citadel  surrounded  by  a  ditch  on 
the  N.E.  The  usual  garrison  is  from  five  to 
6»0Q0  men.  Here  is  an  administration  of  marine, 
and  a  lai^  military  arsenal,  called  the  Tersana, 
in  which  is  a  foundery  of  cannon. 

Bapcdona  had  before  the  ware  an  aetive  and 
jpassive  commerce,  to  the  amount  of  one  million 
and  half  sterlii^.  Hio  number  of  vessels  that 
entered  and  sailed  was  near  l,@od,  of  which  the 
common  proportion  was  500  Spaniards,  500 
¥rMuih,,15a  English,  sixty  Danes^  forty-five  Dutdi, 
and  300  of  all  other  nations.  The  town  possessed 
ab^^uCiOd  square  rigged  vessels.  The  commercial 
iptsttions  have  resident  consuls  hem.  The  chief 
esiports  are  wine,  bmndy,  m'Oo),  coiic,  fruits,  and 
■Uk.  The  manufactures  are  more  iounsbing  than 
in  any  otJber  city  of  i^ain  :  ^ey  are  silks  of  M 
kffid%  o@^u:s«  woq^eos;   oottoM^    window-glass^ 

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poller,  h^tSy  gauze;  ail  of  which  are  exported  to  p<^j^* 
tbe  colonied,  as  well  aa  ^hoea,  of*  which  Banrelona  ^*^*''"^ 
«im]Jied  700,000  pair  annually^   valued  at  twa 
flhiUiags  the  pair. 

Baiceloiia  is  aaid  to  have  been  fimnded  bjr.the 
CartlMiyniiuMy  who  gave  it  the  name  of  tkoir 
ffumnly  Hatiibal  Barcino.  Betwem  SUA  and 
1714  it  sustained  eleven  ai^es  and  waa  ^um 
tknestaken. 

Tbe  new  town  of  Bavceionette,  on  the  S.£L, 
mtBj  be  considered  a  suburb  of  Barcelona :  it  ia  an 
esact  sqtuure  with  twenty-four  stoaets,  eadi  twentyi* 
fiire  feet  wide,  and  crossing  at  rig^  angka.  Xhe 
booses  are  of  brick,  uniform^  and  vdtb  eadi  twenlyt 
flro  4ket  &ont.  It  is  inhalnked  almost  entirdgf 
I^  person^  emptq^ed  in  niaane  afiaira. 

'  A:^^  fiaroelona,  toHhe  n^arth^  the  shore  posn 
8ii)ts  A  qukfk  6ucoes»i<Hi  o£  aaaaU  towfisiind  vik 
hges,  ef  which  the  pnncipjd^  .are^  San  lAndsdan 
ttdt^MH^  iMon^at  ^  the  fbetjof  a  hiti,  i>i\^hpae 
sttttHbit  ifi  a  easlle.  Masnen^  Premiie  de  BaiSt 
Velaaon^deBait;  sdl  these  places  have  niAsiu&c* 
tnsM  of  iron  andbrandy^  which  th^  export  eeaat* 
wiser  Matabo,  a  town  of  ^OQQ  inbi^^ntants*  is 
four  leagues  and  a  half  east  of  Barcelona^  has 
a  good  trade,  exporting  chiefly  its  own  manufac- 
'  tures  of  soq),  brandy;  diks,  cottons,  linens,  sail- 
4[^oth,  lace,  &c.  It  hfts  an  administration  of  ma- 
rine, and  a  c(Mistant  garrison  of  two  squadrons  of 
Sairalry     • 

.;  :1S^TH  M%^o  \Q  tbe  fr9n^ers  of  f  ranqe  there 
k  i)tf  toiHi  <>f  ji^V  ^An&i^ration^    Ttxe  princ^p^l 

places 


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160  MARITIME  GEOGBAPHr^ 

^^•^   places  in  succession  are  Arens  de  Mar,  3,500  in* 
habitants,  St.  Maria  de  Mar,  Canet  de  Mar,  50O 
inhabitants,  St  Pol  de  Mar,  2/X)0  inhabitants,  <hi 
the  little  river  Bellet ;  all  these  places  have  manu- 
fiurtures  of  anchors,  brandy,  silk,  and  cotton  stock- 
ings, which  they  export  to  the  neighbouring  ports 
and  to  Roussillon  and  Italy.   Callela,  2,400  inhabit 
tants,   is  beautifully   situated  and  neatly  built  ^ 
Pineda,  Malgrat,  and  Tordera,  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  little  river  of  the  same  name.     Blanes  has 
some  tanneries,  Tosa  a  village. bujlt  on  a  steep^ 
hill  projecting  into   the   sea,  which  sfadteis  its 
cave  from  all  winds  but  S.  W,     St.  Feliu  de  GuixoU 
Pdamos  has  a  small  pia*  haven  for  craft  on  the 
south  si  de  of  Cape  St  Sebastian':    Pals,  at  the 
mouth   of    the  Tordero^    Ampurias    (Eny^^prw). 
on  the  Fliwia.  Roses,  {Rh6des)y  on  the  north  eide 
ef  the  Bay  of  Roses,  is  a  village  of  one  street^  d&>. 
fended  by 'two  fortfe. ,  Puerto  del  Trinidad»  Ca^ 
daques,  a  simall  town  with  a  large  smd  safejKirt; 
Selvade  Mar,  or  Selva  Baxa,  west  of  Ga{te  Creus, 
h  a  town  of  considei^able  si^e.    Villa  Mana  d^ 
Uansan,  the  last  town  in  Spain^  ib  situated  on  a 
small  creek^   which  penetrates  into  a  beautiful 
TOlIey.  ii.       .  . 


V 


SPANISH  ISLANDS. 


The  isles  Balearss  of  the  antients  compr^hetid 
Majorca^  Minorca,  Cabrera,  and  several  idiets. 
They  are  situated  off  the  coast  of  ValMcia,  ift 

that 


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tflE  MEDITEItllAKEAS — SI*ANISlt  ISLANDS.    161      , 

tiiat  part  of  the  Mediterranean^  called  by  the  an- 
tients  the  Iberum  sea ;  by  the  Greeks  they  were 
named  Gyninesia^  from  the  inhabitants  going 
naked ;  and  they  received  the  name  of  Baleares 
from  the  Romans,  from  the  expertness  of  the 
native^  in  the  use  of  the  sling.  The  modern  names 
oi  Majorca  and  Minorca  are  relative  to  their 
r^pective  sizes  (Major  et  Minor  insula),  and 
Cabrera  (Capraria)  has  its  name  from  the  flocks 
of  goats -sent  from  Majorca  to  feed  on  it. 

Majorca  is  nearly  a  square,  the  parallel  sides  ^v^- 
laying  N.E.  and  S.W,  and  W.N.W-  and  E.S.Rj 
the  former  are  nearly  straight,  without  indentation 
of  consequence  ;  but  the  latter  are  deeply  indented 
by  gulfs.  The  greatest  length  is  fifty,  and  the 
medium  breadth  forty  miles,  containing  a  surface 
of  1,440  square  miles» 

In  general  this  island  is  mountainous  and  rocky, 
particularly  on  the  N.  W.,  where  are  the  two  con- 
^cuously  elevated  mountains  of  Pugg-major  and 
Galatz.  On  this  side  the  shore  is  foimed  of  rocky 
precipices,  furiously  beaten  by  the  sea,  and  has 
no  jdace  of  shelter  for  a  vessel^  except  the  insig- 
nificant port  of  SoUer.  The  island  has  no  stream 
that  deserves  the  name  of  river,  but  is  suflSciently 
"watered  by  the  torrents  from  the  mountains,  many 
of  which  find  their  way  to  the  sea.  The  climate 
is  temperate  and  in  general  healthy.  The  moun- 
tains 6f  the  north  coast  shelter  the  rest  of  the 
island  Scam  the  cold  north  winds,  which  blow 
with  great  violence  out  of  the  Gulf  of  Lyon, 
and  also  arrest  the  clouds,  which  condense  into 

vciL.  ii.  M  light 


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162  MAIUTIMK  OKOaRAFHT. 

v^orte.  ]i^  ^^  gmj  <ieivs,  that  ajiimate  Tsgetataon  and 
moderate  the  heats  of  summer,  durii^  whkk  aear 
son  the  atmosphere  is  also  reficwbed  by  sea 
breezes.  The  mountains,  however,  often  croate 
transient  storms  of  great*  vioIence« 

The  mineral  productions  of  the  island  we  eo^k 
veins  of  which  are  found  ia  several  place^  bii 
none  are  worked;  limestone,  nmrbles,  slated 
and  mill-stones.  Near  Campos  is  1^  only  minorn) 
spring  in  the  islandt  which  is  8ul|)hurous. 

The  vegetable  productions  are  the  same  as  those 
pf  the  opposite  province  of  Spain.  The  quanti^ 
of  wheat  and  barley  produced  is  insufficient  £q£ 
the  consumption  of  the  island,  by  ^^000  fiuiega8» 
to  make  up  which  it  depends  on  Barbary,  &c. 
This  deficiency  does  not  hQweverjM'oceed  frQm.th6 
infertility  of  the  soil,  so  much  as  from  the  impes- 
feet  state  of  cultivation,  and  the  quantity  of  waste 
land. 

The  only  wild  quadrupeds  are  hares»  rabbitoy 
and  a  few  foxes :  the  domestic  animab  in  1805,, 
were  2,000  horses,  9>000  asses  and  mules,  6,000 
head  of  homed  cattle,  61,000  sheep,  34,000  goate 
25,000  hogs.  The  horses  are  weak  aad  iU  shaped^ 
the  asses  and  mules  strong  and  hardy ;  the  homed 
cattle  poor  and  weak ;  the  sheep  hurge  and  their 
wool  fine,  their  milk  as  well  as  that  of  tbe  goata 
is  made  into  cheese ;  the  ho^  are  laige  and  &,% 
and  their  flesh  is  the  most  conmKm  animal  food* 
Common  fowls  are  plenty,  but  geese  and  ducks 
very  scarce* 

The  population  of  the  island  is  estimated  at 

ia6,oeo 


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THE  MEDlTEBRAKaEAK^-SPANISn  ISLANDS.   163 

186,000  souk,  of  whom  2,000  are  priests  and  *i!r- 
monks,  and  1^200  nuns*  The  manufactures  are  con- 
fined tb  9ome  coafte  linens  and  woollens,  saiUdoth, 
and  a  little  siUc:  the  woollen  gkxUes  fabricated  here 
ace  sent  to  Italj  and  Malta,  the  sail-cloth  to  Cmf- 
thi^ena  for  the  navy. 

Tlie  island  hm  two  cities,  lliirty  viltagei,  and 
twenty  hamletar  The  most  conspicuous  points  6£ 
the  coast  are  those  which  form  the  angles  of  the 
s^are,  m.  Cape  Peta,  the  N.R,  Cape  Ssdinas, 
^  S.E.,  Cape  Dragotiera,  the  S.W.,  and  Cape 
Fomientor,  theN.W. 

In  the  topographical  description  we  shall  cdib-  iMio<M;r. 
mence  at  Cape  Pera,  and  make  the  drcuil  of  the 
island  by  the  south.  Manacor,  two  leagues  south  of  . 
diis  cape,  is  on  a  sma&  cove,  with  good  anchov^e 
and  fresh  water,  which  issues  from  a  grotto  eighty 
yards  fh)m  the  beach.  Cala  Losga  affords  lAelter 
to  amBll  vesseb  in  bad  weather,  on  it  is  the  ham- 
let of  Colombo  Port  Pera  can  neceive  five  or  six 
moderate  sized  vessels,  which  may  lie  sheltered  Stom 
all  winds  but  S.E. ;  on  the  left  hand  entering  is  a 
ruinedcasde.  Cala  flguera,  north  of  Cape  Salinas 
is  only  fit  for  long-boats. 

Campos,  west  of  Cape  Salinas.  The  Gulf  rf  «.w, 
Falma  is  fimr  leagues  deep  with  good  bottom  all 
over  it,  but  exposed  to  SLW.  winds,  which  throw 
in  a  gieat  swdl,  prolonging  its  west  shore.  The 
first  place  is  Fort  St.  Carlos  on  a  point,  to  which  . 
succeeds  Port  au  Pins,  a  cove  protected  by  a  fort 
on  Its  north  point,  in  which  fixates  may  anchor 
close  to  the  shore,  tolerably  sheltered  from  aH 

m2  winds 


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l64f  MARITIME  GEOOBAPHT. 

Majorca,  "vmids  in  ten  fathoms.  Here  is  also  a  haven  for 
S.W.  coMU  ^^gg^g  ^f  twelve  feet,  the  entrance  of  which  may 
be  closed  by  a  chain.  Next  to  Port  an  Kns  is 
Belew  Castle,  of  considerable  size,  on  a  hiH,  and 
with  a  garrison,  in  war,  of  150  men.  Attached 
to  it,  on  the  north,  is  a  tower,  which  serves  as  a 
state  prison.  The  lazaret,  between  this  castle  and 
Falma,  is  built  on  the  side  of  a  hill,  and  is  in  very 
bad  order. 

Palma,  the  capital  of  the  island,  is  at  the  head 
of  the  gulf,  built  semicircularly  on  a  rising 
ground.  It  has  83,000  inhabitants,  the  streets 
in  general  narrow  and  ill-paved,  and  the  houses 
large  but  plain.  The  chief  buildings  are  the  pa- 
^  lace  of  the  captain-general,  a  cathedral,  five 
churches,  ten  convents  of  men  and  eleven  of 
women,  the  exchange,  a  town-house,  four  hospi- 
tals, and  a  theatre.  The  town  is  surrounded  by  a 
wall  fourteen  palms  thick,  and  flanked  by  thirteen 
bastions,  several  of  which  have  redoubts,  with 
two  half  moons  and  a  horn-work.  On  the  land 
side  is  a  wide  dry  ditch,  and  towards  the  sea  a 
narrow  feusse  bray.  It  has  five  gates  towards  the 
land,  and  three  from  the  sea.  Its  haven  is  only 
fit  for  small  vessels,  who  make  fast  alongside  a 
narrow  mole,  500  yards  long,  on  the  extremity  of 
which  is  a  battery.  One  of  the  most  consifleraWe 
streatQs  of  the  island  called  la  Rieria^  runs  past 
the  walls  of  the  city;  it  is  oidy  a  mountain  tor- ' 
rent,  which  nearly  dries  in  summer,  but  in  winter 
is  often  much  swollen,  and  does  considerable 
damage. 

Palma 


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THE  MEDITERRANEAK— SPANISH  ISLANDS.    165 

Falma  is  the  seat  of  government  of  the  isles  ^tZ** 
Baleares  and  Fityuses,  which  is  composed  of  a 
captain-general  for  the  military,  and  a  royal  audi- 
dience  of  eight  persons  for  civil  af&irs:  these 
authorities  are  independent  of  each  other,  but  are  . 
both  immediately  accountable  to  the  supreme 
council  of  Castile.  Falma  has  a  society  for  the 
encouragement  of  agriculture,  manufactures,  &c., 
and  two  printing  presses  j  from  which,  however, 
there  issues  only  government  orders  and  advertise- 
ments of  sales  and  local  news. 

Fort  Fasquet,  west  of  Cape  Figuera,  and  the 
west  point  of  the  Gulf  of  Falma,  has  good  ancho- 
rage in  three  to  six&thoms,  but  is  exposed  to  the 
S.W.  OflFits  S.E.  point  are  two  islets,  which 
shelter  it  in  that  direction*  Andraceio,  or  An-  • 
draig,  a  well-built  town  of  4,000  inhabitants; 
near  it  is  a  cove,  two  miles  deep  and  a  musket- 
shot  broad,  which  serves  as  its  port,  but  admits 
only  small  craft.  Friou,  south  of  Cape  Dragonera, 
is  an  open  road. 

Banalbufar,  N.E.  of  Cape  Dragonera,  is  a  town  »w.  cotit. 
of  5,000  inhabitants,  on  the  summit  of  a  moim- 
tain.  Soller  cove,  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  N.  W. 
side  of  the  island,  is  at  the  extremity  of  a  beauti- 
fiil  valley,  bounded  by  barren  hills ;  its  entrance 
is  difficult,  and  is  protected  by  a  battery  of  four 
guns:  it  is  only  visited  by  small  cratl,  to  load 
oranges,  which  the  valley  produces  in  abundance, 
and  which  are  sliipped  from  the  village  of  St.  Ca- 
tharine. 

Folenza  Bay    (Forties  Minor)  between  Cape  ^^'  ^^*' 
M  3  Formentor, 


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N.E.  CoAit. 


166  utiAwrmB  aiiooiUFHY* 

Forxneatcn:  on  the  west*  and  Cape  Pklor  on  the 
east,  has  good  anchorage  aU  over  it,  from  twenty- 
aeven  fathoms  at  the  eotraiM^e  to  three  near  iU 
isiead.  It  has  also  a  land-locked  cove,  in  wluch 
(one  ship  may  anchor  in  four  fathoms,  under  a 
tower  with  some  cannon  ;  south  of  which  is  a  good 
watering  place.  The  open  town  of  Poleojsa  in 
two  miles  from  the  shore,  at  the  head  of  the  bay« 
^d  behind  a  hill ;  it  ha3  6^000  inhabitants. 

Alcuida  Bay  (Portia  Majar)  is  separated  from 
Folenza  Bay  by  a  peninsula,  whose  north  point  h 
Cscpe  Pinar,  and  the  south  Cape  Minorca,  or  Al- 
^eiiida.  Cu/pe  Ferroul  is  the  east  point  of  the  bay, 
within  which  is  good  cuichorage  for  large  ships. 
About  thirty  vessels  of  easy  draft  may  lay  perfect- 
ly shdtered  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  near  a  small 
Island,  within  which,  on  the  main  land,  200  yorda 
from  the  shore,  is  a  hole  in  a  rock,  with  fresh 
water. 

The  city  df  Alcuida,  the  second  of  the  islAod, 
is  on  the  peninsula  that  separates  the  two  bay^, 
and  situated  on  an  eminence,  two  miles  firom  the 
shore  <^  Alcuida  Bay.  Its  population  is  at  pre- 
sent but  800,  being  deserted  in  consequence  of  its 
unhealthiness,  from  a  stagnant  lake  in  the  vicinity; 
it  is  surrounded  by  old  walls  and  a  dry  ditch,  with 
two  forts  and  a  garrison  of  thirty  men^ 

Dragonera  island  is  but  a  quarter  of  a  mile  dis- 

Dragonan.    tautfrom  Capc  Dragoncra,  the  west  point  of  the 

island ;  and  in  the  middle  of  the  passage  is  a 

ledge  of  rocks,  level  with  the  water,  but  with  a 

deep  channel  on  each  side.    The  island  is  about 

two 


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THE  MEDITERltAVBA9-^-9PAia»^  ISLANDS.    Id7 

twa  miles  long,  has  a  fort  ofn  an  emmenoey  and    m^. 
two  Martello  towers,  for  d^ence  against  the  Bar* 
baiy  pirates.     It  is  uncidtivated. 

Cabrera  Island  is  three  leagues  S.W.  d  Cape  <^*^^' 
Salinas,  the  SLE.  point  of  Majorca;^  it  is  three 
lesgues  in  circuity  elevated,  and  afibrding  some 
wood,  whk^h  is  cut  at  certain  intervak,  and  sent 
to  Minorca  for  iueL  Its  N.  W.  point  is  Cape  Le* 
veche,f  tiie  N.£»  Cape  Ventosa,  and  the  S.W. 
Oape  AnsioUu  On  the  N.W.  side  is  a  well-wel- 
tered bay,  capable  of  holding  a  krge  fleet ;  its  en- 
trance is  but  a  cable  and  a  half  length  wide,  and 
wfthin  is  twenty  to  twenty-five  fathoms.  On  an 
eminence,  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  is^  the  castle  of 
Cabrera,  which  in  war  has  a  garrison  of  forty  or 
fifty  men,  and  ten  or  twelve  in  peace.  Except 
this  garrison  there  are  but  few  inhabitants,  and  it 
is  a  place  of  banishment  for  state  prison^s. 

l%ereare  many  smidl  islands  round  Cabrera,  smMM^niU, 
of  which  the  most  consid^able  is  Conojera,  one 
mile  nortii  of  Cape  Ventosa ;  it  is  a  mile  long, 
aad  the  channel  between  it  and  the  cape  is  safe 
for  the  larger  ships,  the  depth  being  ten  «id 
twelve  &thoms.  OS  the  nordi  side  d  this  island 
are  four  islets,  close  together,  three  of  thbm 
named  Fl»ia,  or  Flat  Islands,  and  the  fourth 
and  highest  Furrada.  They  are  only  resorted  to 
by  the  fishermen,  to  dry  their  nets.  The  channel 
between  them  and  Cape  Salinas,  in  Migcnrcay  is 
five  miles  and  a  half  wide,  with  twenty-five  fathoms 
in  the  middle,  and  ten  fathoms  dose  to  the  cape* 
The  other  islands  are  mere  blocks  of  rock,  with 

M  4  generally 


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168  MARITIME   GEOGRAPHY. 

generally  deep  channels  between  them,  but  too 
narrow  to  be  attempted  by  ships. 


nfh^m.        Minorca,  the  second  of  the  Baleares  islands, 
forty  miles  long,  N.  W.  and  S.E.,  and  twelve  broad, 
containing  800  square  miles.     The  channel  be-i 
tween  it  and  Minorca,  in  the  narrowest  part  be** 
tween  Capes  Pera  and  d'Artudi,  is  thirty  miles.* 
In  general  this  island  is  level,  having  but  one  hill 
of  any  elevation,  named  Mount  Toro,  nearly  in 
the  centre  of  the  island.     The  climate  is  less  mild 
and  temperate  than  that  of  Majorca,  wanting  the 
shelter  which  this  latter  receives  from  the  mounr 
tains  of  Catalonia,  against  the  violent  northerly 
winds  from  the  Gulf  of   Lyon,    th6  eflSscts  of 
which  are  strikingly  Visible  in  tlie  nak^  barren^ 
ness  of  the  north  coaat,  whose  few  trees  are  stunt- 
ed and  bent  to  the  south.    Th@  wc^nt  Cff  elevations 
to  arrest  the  clouds,  renders  the  summers  hot  and 
dry,  while  the  autumns  are  wet  and  the  winter  raw, 
though  there  is  seldom  snow  or  ke :  the  spring 
is  therefore  the  only  agreeable  season,  being  pure 
and  serene.   The  variations  of  the  thermometer  are 
between  fortyrcight  and  eighty.    In  gepc^  this 
island  presents  a  base  of  cal^wepus  rock,  Qoverecl 
with  a  layer  of  earth  and  sand,  and  possessed  of 
different  degrees  of  fertility,  according  to  the  depth 

♦  Minorca  was  taken  by  the  English  in  1708,  and  coiifirmed  tp  them  by 
the  treaty  of  Ttrecht,  1713.  It  was  retaken  by  the  .Spaniards  and  French 
)a  1756,  and  Admiral  Byng  fell  a  victim  to  the  exasperation  oi  the  public 
ruind,  and  to  the  safety  of  ministers  for  not  relieving  it,  with  a  force  crcat-. 
Jy  inferior  to  that  of  the  eneniy. 


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THE  MEDITERRANEAN— SPAKISH  ISLANDS.     l69 

of  this  soil»  or  the  preponderance  of  these  sub- 
stances. The  idand  furnishes  limestone^  marbles^ 
slate,  potters'  clay,  and  talc  or  muscovy  glass. 
Iron  ore  is  also  met  with,  and  it  has  some  poor 
veins  of  lead.  On  the  east  coast  are  several 
lagoons,  separated  from  the  sea  by  narrow  strips 
of  land,  through  which  the  sea-water  filters. 
They  abound  with  excellent  mullet.  In  levant 
^nds  their  level  is  higher  than  the  sea,  and  with 
westerly  winds  lower ;  the  waters  of  the  lake  not 
following  with  equal  celerity  the  irregular  move- 
ments of  the  sea  caused  by  these  winds.  ^ 

The  only  timber  trees  of  the  island  are  pines 
and  ever-green  oaks.  The  crops  of  wheat,  rye, 
barley,  and  Indian  com,  taken  together,  are  in- 
sufficient for  the  consumption  of  the  island.  The 
wild  quadrupeds  are,  a  very  few  hares,  abundance 
of  rabbits,  and  some  porcupines;  the  land  tortoise  is 
also  met  with.  The  domestic  animals  were  in 
1805,  600  horses,  asses,  and  mules,  6  to  7,000 
homed  cattle,  40  to  45,000  sheep  and  goats,  and 
10,000  hogs.  The  larger  cattle  are  similar  to 
those  of  Majorca ;  the  sheep  and  goats  small  and 
lean.  The  hogs,  which  are  large,  are  in  the 
aiitmnn  turned  into  the  woods  to  feed  on  tlie 
acorns ;  and  in  winter  are  fed  with  barley,  which 
renders  their  flesh  excellent:  and  pork  is  tbe 
chief  animal  food  of  the  Minorcans  as  well  as 
Majorcans.  The  reptiles  met  with  on  the  island 
are  snakes  and  lizards ;  scorpions  and  centipedes 
are  common.    The  birds  taken  for  food  are,  the 

red- 


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170  M4BITiK£  QEOGUavn* 

x^4egg&d  partridge,  quails  wUcl  pigeom,  tlovM^ 
thrushes»  woodcocl^  snipes^  wild  duck^  amI 
.teal. 

Tlie  popuhition  of  the  island  k  about  SO^OOO. 
la  1805  its  izulitary  ert^lishment  coniisted  of 
l^SOO  chasseurs,  S,100  infantry  of  the  line*  90 
cavalry,  and  500  artillery,  total  5,190  n^ular&j 
of  whom  350  form  the  garrisan  <^  Ciudella,  6fi^ 
of  Fornels,  and  the  remainder  (with  the  except 
tion  of  some  small  detachments  of  four  to  eight 
men,  in  the  small  forts  and  towers  on  the  coast]^ 
are  station^  at  Port  Mahon,  where  is  also  a  park 
of  field  artillery.  The  governor  is  usually  a  briga- 
dier in  the  armies  <^  Spain. 
.  Hie  principal  capes  of  the  island  are,  Cape  de 
Setta,  .the  north  point  Cape  Mola»  north  <^  the 
entrance  of  Port  Mahon,  is  a  lofty  peninsula  pro- 
montory, descending  perpendicularly  to  the  sea} 
on  it  i$  a  signal  tower,  and  its  foot  three  rocks 
tfteep  to.  Cape  d' Artush^  the  S.W.  point  of  the 
island,  is  low,  with  ei^teen  to  twenty  fathoms 
close  to  it,  and  E.S.E.  of  it  a  shoal,  on  which  the 
8^  only  breaks  in  bad  weather,  with  .a  passage 
within  it  for  small  craft  only.  Cape  Bayoli  is  the 
west  point  of  the  island. 

Port  Mahon,  the  princ^[ial  place  of  the  idaodn 
though  not  probably  the  capits)!,  is  on  the  eart 
coast,  and  one  of  the  best  harbours  of  the  Medi<» 
terranean^  being  five  miles  deep;  its  greatest 
breadth  one  mile,  and  at  its  entrance  only  ninety 
fathoms.    In  the  port  are  four  islands }  the  ftrst* 

called 


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THE  JfEDXnWUVSAV-^VJMIU  ISLANDS.    171 

cadled  King^s  or  Bloodj  Idand,*  has  on  it  a  largt 
buildup,  a:ected  for  the  naval  hospital  bf  the 
English  in  177^:  it  wis  intended  to  hold  ^SO 
patients.  On  the  second  island  are  magazines 
and  lodgings  for  receiving  the  cargoes  and  pasaetK 
gers  of  vess^  arriving  from  the  Levant,  with 
dean  Inlls  of  healtii,  while  performing  quaiaotine. 
The  name  of  the  third.  Lazaretto  island^  denotes  its 
iises ;  it  is  joined  to  ihe  main  land  by  a  narrow 
neck,  covered  at  high  ivater.  Redonda,  the  fourth 
island,  is  a  circulsur  mass  of  rock  oomrnunicati^g 
with  the  main  by  a  wooden  bridge.  On  it  wem 
the  English  naval  magazines  and  dwellings  of  the 
oflicers  of  the  naval  depsrtment,  surrounded  by  a 
waU  flanked  with  square  towers ;  a  pier  runs  cnit 
from  it,  at  the  extremity  of  which  are  masting 
shears,  and  alongside  of  which  the  largest  ships 
beave  down. 

Opposite  Lazaretto  island,  on  the  south  shore 
<of  tte  port,  is  the  village  of  San  Carlos,  entirely 
inhabited  by  sea-&ring  persons;  here  are  also 
barracks  for  4,000  men.  Midway,  betweai  this 
village  and  the  city  of  Mahon,  was  the  famous 
fort  St.  Philip,  or  the  RavaUe,  a  league  in  circuit, 
which  commanded  the  entrance  of  the  port ;  but 
the  works  of  which  have  been  entirely  blown  up 
by  the  Spaniards,  so  that,  at  present,  the  only 
defences  are  a  battery  on  the  south  shore,  of 

twenty- 

•  The  Snrt  jtaae  H  received  from  Alphonso  HI.  king  of  Amgoo,  bsHag 
landed  on  it  in  1287,  and  the  latter  was  given  hj  the  English  seamen^  from 
it!  hs?iii8  the  naval  hoqpltal. 


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172  BfARITIME  6E0GRAPHT. 

twentjr-three  guns,  eighteen  and  twenty-fbur 
pounders;  Fort  Philipet  on  the  opposite  shore, 
in  which  are  but  four  or  five  guns ;  and  a  Martello 
tower,  with  but  a  single  gun  on  the  same  shore* 
Oq  one  of  the  heights  that  line  the  north  shore 
is  a  tower,  which  repeats  to  Mahon  the  signals 
from  Mount  Toro;  which  latter  commands  a  view 
of  the  sea  all  round  the  island. 

The  city  of  Mahon  is  on  the  south  shore,  near 
the  head  of  the  port ;  it  is  built  on  elevated  rocky 
ground,  whence  it  enjoys  the  two  advantages  of 
a  fine  view  and  salubrity.  The  streets,  which,  in 
general,  are  narrow  and  crooked,  are  paved  with 
large  pebbles ;  the  houses  tolerably  built  of  stone, 
with  windows  and  chimney-places  in  the  English 
manner,  and  each  has  a  cistern  to  preserve  the 
rain  water.  The  principal  public  buildings  are^ 
the  government  house,  town  house,  a  church,  two 
convents  of  men,  one  of  women,  and  a  civil  ho^i- 
tal.  The  town  was  formerly  surrounded  by  a  wall, 
of  whidi  the  vestiges  of  one  gate  alone  remain. 

Commencing  at  Fort  Mahon,  and  tracing  the 
circuit  of  the  island  by  the  north,  we  meet  in 
succession  with  the  isle  Coloms,  tolerably  higli* 
with  only  a  passage  for  boats  within  it  On  its 
west  is  the  road  of  Sessilanes,  fit  for  vessels 
of  middling  size,  slieltered  from  all  winds  but 
N.  W.,  which  throws  in  a  great  sea ;  but  with  good 
cables  there  is  Uttle  danger.  There  is  also  a  road 
on  the  S.E.  of  the  island,  sheltered  from  all  winds 
but  E.N.E.  to  E.S.E.,  and  a  little  haven  for  small 
craft  entirely  landlocked. 

Port 


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THE  MXDITERRA1IBAN--WANISH  ISLANDS.     173 

Port  Adaye  has  depth  only  for  small  craft ;  off  Mhor^ 
it  are  three  islands,  one  of  which  is  elevated  and  ^•"^ 
the  two  otkedtfi  very  low.  Port  Fomels  is  an 
extensive  basin,  with  a  narrow  entrance;  but  in 
which  is  seventeen  to  twenty  fathoms,  and  no 
danger  bnt  what  is  apparent*  Its  entrance  is 
defended  by  a  little  square  fort,  within  idiich  are 
barracks  for  100  men,  and  by.  a  tower  on  the 
opposite  ^ore  with  an  eighteen  pounder.  At  the 
head  of  the  port  the  English  constructed  a  wooden 
fort  of  ti?o  stages,  the  lower  sert^ing  for  the  lodge- 
ment of  the  soldiers,  and  in  the  upper  one  are 
porfc-holes  for  four  large  guns.  AU  these  wos^s 
are  neglected  by  the  Spaniards  who  have  here 
only  fifteen  soldiers.  On  the  ri^t  shore  of  the 
port  is  a  Ifttle  hamlet  of  fishermen,  its  only 
inhabitants* 

' .  The  gulf  of  Anfros  is  a  large  bay  with  high 
shores  and  several  coves.  Port  Sanitge,  half  a 
mile  deep,  and  one  and  a  hdf  cable's  length  broad 
at  the  entrance,  can  receive  small  vessels,  whicli 
lay  sheltered  from  all  winds,  opposite  a  cavern  on 
the  west  shore.  On  the  N.  W.  of  the  port  is  the 
island  Porcos/  elevated  on  the  north  and  very  low 
on  tiie  soiith ;  the  channd  wilhin  it  is  only  fit  for 
small  craft.  Hie  r6ck  of  Antichrist  is  a  iiigh 
head-land  west  of  Port  Sanitge.  .  . 

Ctuda-della,    or  Cittadella,  the  capital  of  wea  ct«c 
the  island,   is  on  the  west  ^id,  south  of  Cb^ 
Bayoii ;  it  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  with  bastions, 
and  has  barracks  for  600  infantry  and  thirty,  horsej 
a  cathedral,  two  parish  churches,  and  four  con* 

vents; 


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174  ItAlUTIVE  OBOGlUFHf:. 

"rents,  wkb  fimrcuterm  of  faewn  stone  to  preserve 
the  rain  water.  The  streets  are  naorow,  crooked, 
and  badly  paved.  Its  port  is  lyf  no  means  gixxl ; 
ftr  though  the  entmice  is  naftow,  west  and  wMth 
winds  make  a  great  swell  in  it :  it  terminates  in 
matabf  dmala.  On  tiie  right  side  ci  the  entrance 
ii  a  Mactello  tower  with  two  guna;  and  near  it 
the  church  of  St  Nicholas^  held  in  great  venem-^ 
tion  by  the  Minorcan  seamen.  On  die  opposite 
riioro  18  another  tower. 

Shndt  Andres  Cove,  north  of  Caqse  d'Aartush, 
ii  only  fit  for  small  crafts  Semit  6aMan*a  Cove, 
two  mSes  east  of  the  same  cape,  is  the  best  toeA 
mx  the  south  coast,  having  sbeltec  ftom  all  winds 
but  west  in  fan  faliiidmsi 

The  Layre  de  MaEon  is  %  foadi  barrenr  rQidft3f 
island  off  the  S.E.  point  of  Minorca,  very  low  on 
die  N.W.,  and  dses  to  tiie  S.E^r  ^ere  it  tecnii« 
nates  perpendicularly,  aad  is  steep  to;  in  this 
dttnnel  yrkSiin  it  ia  seven  fiithom&  A  little  salt 
IS  made  on  it 


The  isfea  Pi^mes  conqprdlend  Yvi^a,  or  Ivisa; 
Fomientem,  Conojera,  and  upwards  of  fi^' lesser 
mea.  Th^  are  supposed  to  have  obtamed  tlis 
name  of  Pityusa^  eidierfkom  the  jmies  which  mi4> 
tfendy  covered  liiem,  or  from  certain  earthen 
wnds  &bcicated  by  the  inhabitants^  whidi  were 
believed  to  possess  the  virtue  of  neutraliaii^ 
pesson.  Th^  are  said  to  have  no  venommis 
rq»tiles. 

Yoi9a, 


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TBS  MXDIT9B9Jb]QUM;^-«flar AHMI  ISLANDS.      17^ 

Yvi^theaiKsieiit  JEtesw,  b  tiventy  imlesloi^; 
and  ten  hroad»  cmntabmig  560  square  mil6i»  In 
gcaeial  it  bdmfstfied  with  hills  aad  fertile  rHSey9i 
hu  about  la^OOa  ioUbitaiits,  who  ibrnish  a  militia 
iw  its  defence  of  1,670  men,  it  having  n^  vegulw 
tMOttps.  Yvi9a»  the  oafy  town,  is  on  the  S.£«  and 
haa 40& houses ;  aboveit,  onahiO,  isainrt,  witdii* 
ia  wiBcbi  are  SOO  bouses^  a  caithedial,  mi  churches^ 
a  convent,  and  batrndka  ftr  two  battahoiwu  The 
fortifications  consist  of  some  bastions  and  ^  eevwl^ 
vmy  'WEithovl  &  ditch.  The  tatal  pepidatioa  is 
<;70a  Hk  poet  is  spacious,  a«d  diehti^  on 
eveiy  side,,  viz.  from  &  to  S.W.^  by  the  Island  For- 
menteia^  fisoaa  £.  to  8JL,  hy  Isle  Bana,  and  by  the 
hilb  on  the  main  idand  romoid  the  nest  of  the  coia<» 
pees.  The  depth  contintta%  decreases,  as  well 
fimn  the  sand  canied  in  iiom.  t2ie  sea  as  by  the 
ballast  thnnm  out  by  the  vf  sads  tiiat  coow  heiie 
to  Lead  sak^  About  sixty  xebecs  belong  to  the 
poEt    . 

The  other  places,  of  tbe  island  deserving  tnem 
tion  are.  Port  Fbi:tinache  on  the  N.E.,  a  cove  with 
five  fathoms  depth  near  its  head,  where  it  is.  shel- 
tered fimn  east  to  N«  W.  round  by  the  south.  St 
Michad^s  cov^  on  the  same  side  of  the  island,  is 
wdl  sheltered  at  its  head  in  six  fathoms,  and  re^ 
eema  taro  rhmlets,  whose  sources  are  two  milef 
firom  the  shore. 

Poito  Magao,  cur  Sl  Anthony's  Bay,  on  the  w6st 
niQsintw)  miles  and  a  half  to  theS.£.;  itd 
is  covered  by  iht  idbs  Cunillas,  whiish^ 
however,  do  not  didter  it  firom.the  N^W.  wihds^ 

and 


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176  MARtTIHE  OSOORAPlrr.   . 

^1^  and  hence,  though  in  summer  it  is  a  safe  ancfaorftgd 
for  the  largest  ships,  it  is  dangerous  ih  winter^ 
when  these  winds  often  blow  vidently*  Small 
vessels  may,  however,  lay  near  the  head  of  Port 
St.  Anthony  well  sheltered. 

wmcoMt.  Padella  Cove  has  good  anchorage  for  middling 
sized  vessels  sheltered  from  all  winds.  Lentrisca 
cove  has  shelter  for  vessels  of  easy  draft  &om  all 
winds  but  S.E.  Port  Roxo  is  exposed  to  the  S- W. 
and  south. 

The  principal  points  of  the  coasts  c^  Yvi^a  are* 
Cape  Grrossa,  the  N.E.  perpendicular,  and  with  an 
idet  close  to  it  Cape  Juen,  the  west,  high,  steep 
and  covered  with  trees :  W.S.  W.  one  mile  frcmi  it 
is  the  little  island  Beder,  three  quarters  of  a  mile 
loi^,  and  so  high  as  to  be  seen  twelve  leagues, 
forming  two  peaks ;  in  the  channel  between  it  and 
the  cape  is  twenty  fathoms.  The  i^nd  Bedier^ 
nella  is  close  to  Beder.  Cape  Ealcon,  the  S.W. 
point  of  the  island,  is  low  and  projecting.  The 
point  of  the  Gates,  the  S.E.  point,  is  low,  but 
descends  from  an  elevated  land,  called  el  Cewvo 
Marino.  Cape  Campaniche,  the  east  point,  is  per- 
pendicular. Off  it  is  the  Isle  of  Tayomi^o,  half 
a  mile  long*  In  the  channel  between  it  and  the 
cape  is  fifteen  fathoms.  The  peak  of  Nono,  on  the 
west  side  of  the  island,  is  a  conical  promontory 
covered  with  trees. 

ro«ntenu  The  Island  of  Formentera  (Pityusa  Minor j  or 
Opfdussa^  Serpent)  is  south  of  Yvi9a  two  miles 
and  a  half;  the  passage  between  being  call^ 
the  Channel  of  Yvi^a. .  It  is  eight  miles  long, 

E.  and  W. 


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THE  MEDlTEttRAHSAir-^HSPAHiSS  ISLANDS*     1^ 

E.  and  W.  but  of  very  irregular  breadth.  It  is  of  ^^ 
middHug  height ;  and  has  1,000  inhabitants,  whose  ^•"^'^'^'^ 
chief  business  is  cultivating  wheat,  whence  the 
iflfadd  derives  its  name*  The  island  has  no  good 
port,  but  small  crsil;  may  anchor  in  the  cove  of 
^SaMa  onHhe  west  end,  which  is'  open  only  between 
ICW.  aiidf5.W.,  and  in  tifiat  of  Espalmidore  also 
ofi  the  w^flft  A  quantify  <^  salt  is  made  on  this 
i8laDd>  in  naturbl  salt-pims  or  lakes,  which  have  no 
visible  communication  with  the  sea. 

The  principal  lesser  islands  it>und  Tvi^a  are  die  tiiwJiiiimn^t. 
three  Conc^eras^  Bledl^  and  Esparta,  off  the  west 
coast  The  Grand  Conojora  is  of  middling  height, 
one  mile  and  a  quarter  long,  and  has  on  the  east  a 
tolerably  shdtered  cove.  Borca,  the  second  of  *these 
isles,  is  half  a  mile  long,  and  high.  Esparta,  the 
third,  is  three  quarters  of  a  mile  long,  and  the  highest 
of  the  three.  These  islands  are  uninhabited,  but 
thepeopIeofYvi5a  pasture  their  sheep  here,  and 
often  lose  them  by  the  descents  of  the  Barbs^ 
pirates.  The  Bledas  are  five  islets,  W.S.W.,  two 
miles  and  a  half  from  tiie  Great  Conqjera. 

The  Colombrettes,  in  the  Gtilf  of  Valencia, 
B«N.E.  oP  Murviedra,  and  ten  leagues  from  the 
coast,  are  a  group  of  fourteen  rocks  above  water^ 
ii4iich  owe  their  name  tolJie  idea  that  they  are  so 
inftsfed  by  serpents  as  to  be  uninhabitable ;  hence 
abo  the  Gre^  called  them  Ophiusa,  and  the  Ro^ 
mans,  Colubraria.  On  the  N.E.  side  of  the  north-  * 
ernniost  0  »  bay,  sffi>rding  shelter  for  smaH  vessels. 

vo*.  IT.  »r  Frakcb. 


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178  MARITIME  GiS9GRAPHY# 


FRANCB. 


c<mu.  Passing  Cape  Creus  the  coast  of  the  Depart- 
ment of  the  Eastern  Pyrenees  contmues  moun- 
tainous and  rocky;  then  succeed  the  low  and 
marshy  shores  of  the  Departments  of  Aude  and 
Herault,  on  which  are  many  salt  lagoons  com- 
municating with  the  sea,  the  principal  heing  tiio^e 
of  Leucate,  Sijean  and  Thau. 

The  lagoon  of  Thau  is  six  leagues  loi^,  and 
communicates  with  those  of  Perols  and  Mmigio  ; 
it  is  separated  from  the  sea  by  the  butte  or  breche 
of  Cette,  a  narrow  ridge  of  pebbles  cemented  with 
spath  which  was  anciently  thrown  up  by  the  waves, 
but  which  they  now  continually  wear  away.  The 
water  of  the  lagoon  is  as  salt  as  that  of  the  sea, 
but  in  it  is  fa  deep  spot  called  Avysse^  from  which 
rushes  up  a  column  of  fresh  water  with  such  force 
as  (in  conjunction  with  strong  winds)  to  prodlice 
at  times  waves  dangerous  to  boats.  The  watera  of 
this  spot  being  much  warmer  than  the  surround- 
ing ones»  a  circular  spa^e  remains  unfrozen  in  the 
Iwdest  winters,  when  the  rest  of  the  lake  is  a 
sheet  pf,  ice.  In  the  middle  of  the  lagoon  rises  a 
nak^d  rock,  named  Roquerol,  round  which  the 
water  is  very  deep.  Vast  numbers  of  muscles,  le- 
pas,  and  other  shell  fish,  adhere  to  the  base  of  this, 
rock. 

Beyond  Cette  the  Rhone  forms  a  number  of 
islands,  the  principal  of  which,  named  Camargue, 
is  properly  an  assemblage  of  little  marshy  islets 

and 


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THE  MEDITERRANEAN — ^PRANCE.  179 

itnd  sand-banks,  whose  base  is  the  ancient  bed  of 
the  sea.  Within  these  islands  are  the  brackish 
lagoons  rfValcaros  and  Bierre,  or  Martigues  ;  the 
latter  is  five  leagues  long  and  two  broad,  and 
communicates  with  the  sea  by  the  Canal  of  Mar- 
tigues, at  the  entrance  of  which  is  the  Tour  de 
BoucJ^  This  lagoon  is  navigable  for  boats  all  over 
it,  affords  abundance  of  salt,  and  has  a  good 
fishery  •,  as  have  the  lakes  of  Valcaros,  Majean, 
Entrecens,  Foz  and  De  Galle. 

The  coast  from  Marseilles  to  the  limits  of  Italy 
is  more  or  less  elevated,  and  has  a  great  number 
of  small  indentations,  improperly  named  gulfs,  be- 
tween the  rocky  headlands. 

The  rivers  that  empty  themselves  on  the  Medi-     «itt». 
terranean  coast  of  France  are. 

Departments.  Rivers.  Empties  at. 

renees* « .  i  ^i 

V  Basse. 

Aude Aude. 

rOrbe Serignan. 

Herault ...<  Herault Adge. 

vLez. 

-r^     ,  i  Vidoule Lake  Thau. 

^"•^•••••ivistre. 

Rhone. 

rTouloubre    1  j  r.    xi- 

Bouches  de  J  Are  ......  J  ^^ 

Jlhone . .   I  Joset. Marseilles. 

L  Veaune Bay  of  Marseilles. 

N  2  Var 


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189  MABITIKS  QEOGEAPHT. 

PepirtaoElt,  Biven.  Empties  at. 

f  Leteya Gulf  of  Hyeres^ 

MoUe   ...Gulf  of  Grimaud^ 

Argens Gulf  of  Frqua. 

^  j  Saigne  Gulf  of  Na^ul.    . 

*"****"      Bajge. 

Loup... Bay  of  Antibes. 

Cannes. 
^Var. 
The  Aude  {Atax)  has  its  source  in  the  Pyreft- 
nees,  and  divides  into  two  branches  nefir  Nar- 
bonne;  that  which  retains  die  primitive  nfun^ 
separates  the  departments  of  Aude  and  Herault, 
and  falls  into  lake  Vehdres^  the  second  into  la]k? 
Pages. 

The  Herault  (Ransarus)  rises  in  the  mountains 
of  Cevennes. 

Vidoule  separates  the  departments  of  Herault 
and  Gard. 

The  Rhone  (Rhodanus)  rises  in  the  peaked 
mountain  in  Switzerland,  passes  through  the  Lake 
of  Geneva,  by  Lyons,  &c.  and  empties  itself  with 
great  rapidity  by  three  mouths  among  the  marshy 
islands  we  have  already  noticed.  The  western- 
most branch  is  called  the  Little  Rhone  or  Rbo- 
donet,  the  middle  separates  the  depaitments  of 
Bouches  de  Rhone  and  Gard.  The  eastern  branch, 
called  the  Great  Rhone,  has  six  channels  into  it 
between  the  banks. 

The  Argens  is  the  only  river  of  the  department 
of  Var  that  is  even  floatable  for  timber,  and  that^ 
only  a  short  distance. 

The 


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THE  iffiDiriBRRAKEAk-^FkANCE.  isl 

The  Var  rises  ita  the  Alps  near  Colmar,  and  i^ 
idler  a  course  of  twenty-five  leagues,  empties 
itself  half  a  league  west  of  Nice,  forming  Ae 
ancient  boundary  between  France  and  Italy.  It 
has  seve]fal  Islands  and  so  rapid  a  current  that  H 
is  scarcely  navigable.  The  freshes  froni  the  moun- 
tains (cause  it  to  oversow  and  at  tiihes  to  do  con- 
siderable damage. 


Port  Vendre,  a  leaguse  east  of  cape  Cenrera  in  ^^^J^- 
Spain^  is  the  first  town  of  France :  it  isr  <in  a  cove  d^P^' 
Well    sheltered  with  anchorage  in  six  to  eight  '*^- 
iathoms,  and  exports  some  wine  coastways. 
'  ColHoure,  a  small  town  of  2,000  inhidbitants  at 
iiie  foot  of  a  hill,  on  whose  summit  is  fort  St. 
Elme,   which  also  comnumds  Port  Vendre:  it 
exports  some  sardines  and  tunny  fish  as  well  as  a 
Ihtle  wool.    £lne  cm  the  Tech  has  1,200  inhabi- 
tants.   Cabet  on  the  Tet  exports  a  considerable 
quantity  of  salt  made  in  the  matshes  near  it. 

Pehpignak,  two  leagues  and  a  half  above  Canet 
0n  the  same  river,  is  the  chief  town  of  the  depart- 
ment, having  1 1 ,000  inhabitants :  it  is  partly  ont  the 
aide  and  partly  at  the  foot  of  a  hiU  and  has  a 
dtfldel.  It  exports  wine,  fruit,  and  wool.  Salce» 
and  Leucate  are  small  places  on  Leucate  kgoon:  i^nn^ 
the  former  has  a  good  fort,  the  latter  sustained  a  ^ ' 
memorable  siege  in  1637  by  the  Spaniards*  It  is 
m  the  department  of  Aude. 

Sijean^    oa  a  lagoon,    has  1,800  inhabitanta- 
K  3  and 


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18« 


MARITIME  GEOGRAFHT. 


DepAnment 
of  Aade. 


HtrmK. 


and  considerable  salt-works.  Naebonne,  (Narb^ 
martiuSy)  an  antient  city  of  9,000  inhabitants,  is 
on  a  canal  cut  from  the  river  Aude  to  the  sea 
near  lake  Bages*  It  is  unhealthy,  and  exports  oil, 
wine,  and  honey,  the  latter  being  celebrated.  In 
the  vicinity  are  many  Roman  ruins. 

Serignan,  a  small  place  at  the  mouth  of  the  Orbe. 
Agde  {Agatha)  on  the  Herault,  is  built  of  lava 
and  has  7,000  inhabitants,  with  some  coasting 
trade.  Cette,  or  port  of  Sl  Louis,  has  7>500  inha^ 
bitants.  It  is  built  on  a  strip  of  land  that  sepa- 
rates the  lagoon  of  Thau  from  the  s6^  and  com- 
inunicates  with  the  lagoon  by  a  •  canal.  Its  hav^i 
is  formed  by  a  curved  jetty  oil  the  north,  another 
on  the  south,  and  a  third  ^ross  the  entrance  SOQ 
yards  long,  leaving  two  channels;  that  on  the 
north  fit  only  for  small. craft,  and  thsM^  on  the 
south  for  vessels  of  thirteen  feet :  the  depth  in  the 
haven  is  fifteen  feet.  £00  to  iiOO  vesads  annually 
load  brandy  here  for  the  Baltic ;  it  also  exports  the 
produce  cxf  its  sardine  fishery,  and  the  wines, 
verdigris,  &c.  of  Montpellier.* 
.  Me-^,  2300  inhabitants ;  Frontignan,  1,400  in- 
habitants, celebrated  for  its  wines  and  raisins/  are 
on  the  shores  of  lake  Thau,  or  Maguel0lie. 

Aigues  Mortes  {AqiuB  Mortua^),  on  the  Vistre, 
had  foimerly  a  good  port  but  is  now  two  leagues 
from  the  sea,  with  which  it!  communicates  by  a 

*  ^canal 


•  Montpcllier  {Mom  Pestuiamti)  has  33,000  fnliabitants  :  it  u  on  a  hSX 
two  leagues  from  the  sea,  the  little  river  Merdanson  running  tJiit>ug;b  it, 
and  the  Leidosepast  it.    It  is  celebratod  for  'm  salt^riovt  climitc 


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THE  MEDITERIUNEAN— -FRANCE,  18S 

canal  100  feet  wide  and  six  deep.     In  1799  the  p^titw.*. 
sea  inundated  it.     The  road  called  GrSu  d*Aigues  ^Xmint 
Mortes  afibrds  tolerable  anchorage  but  is  seldom  Ruoue.    "^ 
visited. 

Martigues,  on  lake  Bierre,  has  7*000  inhabi- 
tants :  it  is  composed  of  three  distinct  parts  ;  the 
island  at  the  entrance  of  the  canal^  by  which  the 
lake  communicates  *with  the  sea  j  the  second  on 
the  north  side  of  the  canal,  called  Jonquieresj  and 
the  third  on  the  south,  named  Ferrieres. 

Marseilles  (Massilia),  a  city  of  the  first  class,' 
havirrg  1 10,000  inhabitants,  is  on  a  bay  of  which 
Cape  Couronne  is  the  west,  and  Cape  Croisette 
the  eairt  point,  distanffrom  each  other' five  leagues: 
Half  a  mile  east  of  the  former  cape  is  the  little 
island  Serignan,  and  on  the  west  side  6£  the  bay 
mooring  anchors  are  laid  down  for  the  conve- 
nience of  ships  waiting  for  a  wind  to  get  to 
Marseilles.  This-  city  is  supposed  to  have  been 
fouridted  by  a  colony  of  Phoceans.  It  is  divided 
into  tli^  new  and  old  towns  :  the  former,  which'  is 
on  the  side  of  a  hill,  has'narfow,  crookfed  and  sitfee^ 
streets,  and  mean  houses.  The  new  town,  ^t  the 
foot  of  the  hill,  has  sb-aight  and  wide  streets  and 
handsome  houses,  and  the  little  river  Jbset  runs 
throu^  it.  The  port  is  an  artificial  Basin  enclosed 
by  m<J^  and  capable  of  receiving  900  vessels. 
The  exchange  is  a  noble  building.  The  princi- 
pal trjKde  is  with  the  Levant,  Shd  the*  Marseiliois 
formerly  mbhopolised  the  ^eatest  part  of  the  coast- 
aig'  traSdtt  df  the  Turkish  dominions;^ '' In  178^ 
^,000  ve^ls  clearecl  out,  and  in  1803  only  U&OOJ 

N  4  England,       ' 


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*  184  MAAIXXMS  ^BOGEAPHY* 

^JUT*'   Engjand,    i^pain,    Deirauttk,    Sweden,    Pnumay 

S!^^^    Kiivsoa,  Hdland,  Austna,  America,  Switzedatid, 

^*^^       aiMlK^ipLes,  have  consuls  here*    As  Ma^seijlesfaw 

a  constant  communication  with  the  Levaiit,  th# 

most  rigorous  precautions  are  here  taken  to  guard 

against  the  introduction  of  the  plague* 

Op  the  east  side  of  the  Bay  of  Marseilles  ar^ 
feveral  rocky  islands,  Wz.  Eattoneau^  or  St*  Ste* 
phen,  the  nortiiem,  one  mile  and  a  half  long,  of 
which  no  use  is  made ;  Pome^e,  or  St.  John,  on 
'  which  is  the  road  and  lazaret  for  vessels  performing 
Quarantine^  and  on  which  is  a  castle  that  ^oraierly 
served  as  a  state  prison,  but  13  now  used  as  a  de« 
pot  for  convicts  intended  to  be  sent  to  work  tb^ 
mines  of  the  isle  of  Elba,  llie  rest  of  the  islands 
are  mere  rocks ;  their  names  are,  de  Daumei 
Tiboulen,  de  la  Maire,  Jaros,  Galaseraigne,  Eiou, 
all  close  together,  and  Planier,  five  leagues  S.W, 
of  Cape  Croisette,  with  a  tower«^ 

Fort  Miod  is  a  little  haven,  two  leagues  east  of 
Cape  Croisette  }  and  one  league  fiuther,  is  Casais, 
^  large  village  with  a  haven,  ei^orting  fruit  and 
wines.  La  Gotat,  {Gfvitas),  a  considerable  place  on 
a  cove,  with  an  island  before  it,  and  a  pier  haven 
fjN  small  craft.  It  is  famous  for  its  muscat  wine, 
as  well  as  for  an  intermitting  ^^untain.  Vessels 
for  the  Mediterranean  coasting  trade  ^e  buil(; 
here. 

The  Bay  of  Toulon  is  formed  on  the  south  bj 
a  peninsula,  joined  to  the  main  by  a  narrow  low 
Vtc\  of  land  j  the  outer  point  of  this  peninsula  is 
Cape  Cepet.    The  ou^r  or  gi»at  road  of  Toulon 

;     '  is 


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THE  HramftEANIAV^-HTRANCfi.  ISJ^ 

l»  betmddd  \^  tibe  peniiisula  on  the  south:  its  t^]^ 
eateanpe  is  a  tnile  and  a  half  broad  and  is  d^eiidU 
edi^  masy  ferts  on  both  shores.    The  ioner  road 
Is  a  fine  ba^im,  entered  between  two  promontories 
a  ^qi^soter  of  a  mile  from  each  other  and  boA 
covered  with  batteries :  the  depth  in  the  basin  is 
six  to  four  &thoms.    Toulon  {Teio  Martius%  tba 
only  naval  ar^nal  of  Fraike  in  the  Mediterranean, 
k  situated  in  ihe  inner  road  and  contains  dO,000 
inhabitant^   who    are  chiefly  employed    in  the 
business  of  the  fleet.    Its  trade  is  confined  to  the 
export  f^  some  wine»  fruits,   oil,    and   capers, 
eoastways,  and  to  the  import  of  objects  recpiired 
by  the  dfttpping*     The  arsenal  has  two  basins  in 
which  the  Im^gest  ships  lay  afloat :  one  of  the  dry 
docks  is  180  &et  kmg  by  eighty  wide  and  eighteen 
^teq>»  and  3s  emptied  by  e%hty-four  pumps  worked 
by  steam ;  the  rope-walk  is  an  arched  stonfe  buiUU 
V^  100  fathoms  long*  .  Querqueragne  Road  is  four 
]b;#gues  east  of  tiie  bay  of  Touhm. 

The  Gulf  of  Hyeres  is  bounded  on  the  west  by 
the  peninsula  of  Ribaden,  joined  to  the  main  bf 
a  low  marshy  isthmus,  whence  it  is  generally 
called  an  island.  The  town  of  Hyeres,  whi^h 
formerly  had .  a  good  port,  is  now  considerably 
iDland.  Before. the  gulf  areihe  four  islands  of 
JJyer^s,  or  Golden  Isles  (Stockades) :  the  western^ 
PorqueroUes,  is  separated  from  the  peninsula  of 
Eib^d«;n  by  a  channd  with  nine  or  ten  fathoms, 
in  which  are  two  rocks.  It  is  the  largest  and 
IROst  Woody  of  the  islands,  h&s  a  ouftl^  and  aiiout 
eighty  inhabitants.    Porteeros  is  elevated,  has  a 

small 


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Dwpartt 
•f  Var. 


186  MARITIME   0EO6RAPHT. 

small. havea  and  fifty  inhabitants,  in  a  hamlet  on 
VS^Siut  the  vest,  before  which  is  the  islet  Bageau.  Levant 
0£  Titan,  is  the  eastern,  and  has  the  islet  Esquilait 
off  its  N.£.  point.  Bragan^on  has  a  castle.  All 
these  .islands  are  moderately  high,  and  thou^ 
rocky,.,  fertile,  producing  oranges,  lemonls,  pome- 
granates^ and  spontaneously  great  quantities  of 
ptrawbemes  and  lavendfer:  the  softness  of  their 
diniate  is  much  celebrated  and  one  of  them  claims 
the  hcmour  of  being  the  isle  of  Calypso. 

The  Gulf  of  Triveuil  is  east  of  the  Hyeres,  to 
yrhich  sUeceeds  the  Gulf  of  St.  Tropes  or  of  Gri- 
maucU  on  which  are  the  towns  of  these  names  2 
that  of  ^t.  Tropes  has  8,000  inhabitant^  and  a  cita- 
del. Frejus  (Forum  JulU)  on  the  Argens,  amongst 
unwholesome  matches,  two  miles  from  the  sea,  is  an 
inconsiderable  plaice,  noticed  only  for  its  Roman 
aiotiquities  and  for  its  anchovies. 
;  The  Gulf  of  Napptd  is'  limited  by  Cape  RoaXf 
a  high  steep  barren  pbirtt  on  the  south,  and  by 
Cape  Oropesa  on  the  N.E.  Napool  and  Cannes 
we  sindl  places  on  the  golf,  and  before  it  are 
the  wdes  Lcrins  or  St.  Honorat,  and  St.  Margue- 
rite :  they  are  both  low,  and  on  St.  Marguerite, 
the  northemmoet  and  largest,  is  a  strong  castle 
whick  as  used  as  a:  stale  prison,  and  is  celebrated 
by  the  confin^ent  >of  th«  famous  Iton  Mask. 
St  Honorat,  which  iauilinbabtted,  has  its  name 
from  a  monastery  antiently  foimded  ^n  it  by  tibat 
satnt.  . 

Antihes  (AftHpoUs)  is  an  antient  fortified  town 
pf&^OOO  inhe^itaats,    on  a  gulf  ^f  which  C^pe 

Gro3 


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THE   M£DIT£RRAK£AN-^ITALT.  187 

Gros  is  the  west  limit.  It  has  a  mole  haven  600 
&tholDsin  circuit,  but  partly  filled  up  and  with  but 
thi|i;een  feet  water  where  deepest.  It  exports 
fruits. 


n'ALY.* 


Nice  (j^Tfcea),  at  the*  mouth  of  the  little  river  ^^.^ 
Poglia,  has  18,000  inhabitants,  and  was  formerly 
tiie  chief  place  of  the  county  of  Nice.  It  is  ill 
built,  and  the  streets  narrow  and  gloomy  from  the 
height  of  the  houses.  On  the  south  it  is  protected 
from  the  sea  by  a  strong  stone  rampart,  and  on  the 
feaaft  is  bounded  by  an  immense  rock  several  hun- 
dred 


•  Onr  readers  are  awire  that  the  maritime  states  of  Italy,  from  the  Var 
t»  Terradoa,  were  untot  to  the  French  empire  since  the  rerolutimu 
The  C9imty  of  Nice  iielooged  to  the  i^ng  o/  Sardiida>  and  extended  from 
the  Var  nearly  to  the  gates  of  Monaco.  Tlie  principality  of  Monaco  had  a 
ttant>w  tract'  of  seren  miles  along  tbe  coast:  it  belonged  to  the  Dnke  do 
Yalenlinois,  a  Peer  of  France*  and  the  Ibrt  of  Monaco  was  garrisoned  by 
French  troops.  These  territories  formed  the  French  department  of 
jUpes  Marithnes,  The  territor}-  of  Genoa,  comprized  between  that  of 
llona^  and  Tuscany,  formed  the  tlffee  French  departments- of  Monteaotte* 
Genoa,  and  the  Appennines.  The  Grand  Dutchy  of  Tuscany  (with  the 
axecption  of  the  republic  o(  Lucca  and  the  principality  of  Piombino)  wai 
ffepted  into  a  Ungdom,  by  the  antlmt  name  of  Ktmria,  in  18(^1,  and  the 
infant  son  of  the  Duke  of  Parma  declared  King ;  but  he  dying  iu  1803,  the 
kingdom  was  governed  by  his  mother  for  Rome  months,  when  it  was  united  to 
France,  and  fi>nned  the  three  departments  of  j^rtiOf  Maditerranean,  and 
Ombrone.  The  territory  of  Lucca  was  erected  into  a  principality  in  1605, 
and  given  by  Buonaparte  to  his  brother-in-law  the  Prince  of  Bacchioci.  Piom- 
Mno,  a  principality  governed  by  its  Prinees  under  the  protection  of  the  King 
of  Nap^,  was  ceded  ii^  1^1  to  France,  and  also  given  by  Buonaparte  to  the 
frince  of  Bacchioci.  The  papal  territory  on  the  Tuscan  Sea  wus  united  to 
irmM^  IB08y  aad  Ibrmed  the  dq>firtment  of  Itwie, 


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18S  Mkitirme  otiOGEAPilt. 

^*jjl^y  dred  feet  high,  on  whose  summit  are  the  miirt  <^ 
a  castle,  thought  to  be  impregitable  until  carried  by 
assault  by  Marshal  Catinat  in  1704.  Between 
this  rock  and  Mount  St.  Alban  is  the  entrance  of 
the  port,  an  artificial  basin  enclosed  between  two 
strong  moles,  and  capable  of  holding  forty  vessels 
of  middling  size.  The  road  outside  die  haven  is 
full  of  rocks,  without  shelter  from  the  levant, 
and  witii  thirty  fathoms  close  to  the  shore»  so  that 
when  this  wind  begins  to  blow  vessels  usually  run 
for  Villa  Franca.  The  trade  of  Nice  is  chiefly 
with  Marseilles  and  Genoa,  whither  it  exports  oil, 
silk,  rice,  hemp,  oranges,  lemons,  anchovies,  8ar«« 
dines,  and  tunny  fish. 

Villa  Franca  is  one  league  east  of  Nice,  the 
castle  on  Mount  St.  Alban  serving  to  defend  both 
towns.  Its  port  is  a  natmal  cove,  one  mile  and 
a  half  deep,  between  Mount  St.  Alban  and  Cape 
St.  Hospice.  The  entrance  is  safe,  but  from  its 
too  great  breadth  tlie  cove  is  open  to  the  S.S.E.  j  ita 
depth  is  ten  and  twelve  fathoms.  On  the  westnde 
of  the  cove  is  a  little  haven  within  a  pier,  where 
the  King  of  Sardinia's  navy,  consisting  of  two  fri* 
gates  and  two  gallies,  used  to  refit.  The  town  is 
at  the  head  of  the  cove,  at  the  foot  of  a  steep  rock» 
and  is  defended  by  a  citadel  on  a  little  hiU  to  the 
west.  The  village  of  Eya  is  on  the  shore,  at  the  foo^ 
of  a  steep  declivity  between  Nice  and  Monaco. 

Monaco  (^Partus  HercuUs\  a  fortified  town  of 
1,100  inhabitants,  on  a  high  ^yeninsiilar  promon^ 
tory  rising  perpendicularly  from  the  sea,  and  in* 
accessible  except  on  the  west.   Its  road  is  exposed 

U 


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THE  ACRDITEBRANEA?^— ITALY.  189 

to  the  east,  and  has  twenty ^five  fathoms  close  to 
the  shore,  but  it  has  a  haven  for  the  small  crafty 
which  export  its  lemons  to  Nice  and  Marseilles^ 
Mentone,  an  opulent  town  of  3,000  inhabitants, 
has  no  port,  hut  exports  a  great  quantity  of  oranges 
and  lemjons,  and  palm  branches  used  in  the  religi* 
ous  ceremoioies  of  9alm  Sunday.  Between  Mo^ 
naco  and  Mentone  is  the  village  of  lloccabrunai 
where  the  Prince  of  Monaco  has  a  palace* 

The  coast  from  Monaco  to  the  east  is  com*  lymun^ 
posed  of  rocky  precipices,  except  between  Men*  — * 
tone  and  Cape  de  MeUe,-  where  is  a  fine  sandy 
bjeach  for  eight  leagues.  Near  Genoa  the  shore 
is  still  more  h^  a^d  precipitpus.  The  coast  of 
the  territory  of  Genoa  is  one  continued  chain  of 
towns  and  viUages,  the  tenth  part  of  wfaich  aie 
not  named  in  ms^ps.  The  ftcst  is  Lete,  between 
which  and  Vintixniglia,  are .  scfveral  others,  Vin-; 
timiglia  (Albmm)^  at  the  mouth  of  the  liM^le  rivers; 
Bibera  and  Rotta,  has  a  strong  castle.  St.  Remp 
is  a  handsome  town  of  12,000  inhabitants:  it 
expoi:ts  lemons,  oranges,  and  has  the  exclusive 
privilege  of  supplying  Rome  with  palm  branche^> 
whither  it  sends  a  cargo  annually,  worth  sqmQ 
thouaaQd  scudi.  Porto  Morizzo,  b,  fortifi^  tow% 
on  an  eminence ;  between  it  and  Onegl^a^  a  dtsr 
tanqe  of  only  five  miles,  axe  reckoned  two  townt 
and  for^  villages.  OnegUa.  and  Ales^io,,  on.  tb« 
north  side  of  Cape  de  Melle,  are  small  places  where 
boats  load  fruit  Off  Ci^^e  de  Melle  is  a  large  nick 
with  a  %ht-tower.  Albenga  (AllHum  Inguamm\ 
iu  an  unhealthy  situation  on  the  Borgo,  Im  Bew 

it 


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(ttmoQ. 


190  MARITIME   GEOGRAPHY. 

y^rntor,<,f  it  the  islc  Grallinaii.  Rnale  has  a  citadel  and 
castle.  Noh*,  Vaya,  and  Sabatia,  are  populous 
villages.    " 

Savona,  a  large  town  of  30,000  inhabitants,  is 
defended  by  two  castles :  its  haven,  within  a  pier, 
fonnerly  received  large  ships,  but  being  found 
to  interfere  with  the  trade  of  Genoa,  it  was  filled 
up  so  as  to  receive  only  vessels  of  ten  feet  Be- 
tween Savona  and  Genoa  are  many  towns  and 
villages,  which  have  nothing  worthy  of  particular 
notice. 

Genoa,  Genova  Italian,  Genes  French,  (Genua) 
one  of  the  handsomest  cities  of  Europe,  is  built 
amphitheatrically  on  the  side  of  a  hill,  and  con- 
tains 75,000  inhabitants.  Its  port  is  formed  by 
two  moles,  with  a  light-house  on  each  mole-head, 
distant  from  each  other  a  quarter  of  a  mile :  the 
depth  within  is^  seven  to  three  fathoms,  and  though 
a  south  wind  throws  in  a  considerable  swell,  it  is 
sufficiently  secure. 

To  the  east  of  Grenoa  the  succession  of  towns  vi 
almost  as  quick  as  to  the  west.  The  first  oC  any 
consideration  is  Nervi,  which  has  some  silk  manu- 
factures ;  Recco  and  Camagli  are  small  places ; 
Porto  Fino  is  on  alcove  between  two  promontories 
which  are  near  a  mile  in  perpendicular  height,  it 
has  also  a  small  pier  haven  ;  Rapalla,  a  small  town 
on  a  cove,  exports  oil. 

Chiavari,  on  the  Sturla,  has  6,000  inhabitants, 
chiefly  employed  in  the  anchovy  fishery :  it  has 
a  celebrated  fair.  Sestri-di  Levante  (Sagestd)  and 
other  villages  arp   between    Chiavari  and  Porto 

Venere, 


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THE  MEDITERRANEAN— ITALY.  191 

Vehere,  whicK  latter  {Portus  Veneris)  is  on  the  SS^*^ 
west  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  Spezia,  and  has  a  strong 
fOTtress  on  the' side  of  a  hill.  The  Gulf  of  Spezja 
{Porto  Ltmeruis)  is  surrounded  by  verdant  hiUs, 
and  is  remarkable  for  a  spring  of  fresh  water  bub^ 
Uing^  up  amidst  the  salt  On  the  west  point  of 
the  gulf  is  the  castle  of  Santa  Maria,  and  off  it 
^ee  small  islands,  named  Palmaria,  Tino,  and 
Tinetto,  on  the  eastern  of  which,  or  Palmaria,  is  *& 
very  high  light-house.  Oft'  the  east  point  of  the 
gulf  is  Saveta  island,  and  at  its  head  is  i^zia,  a  con^ 
siderable  town  with  a  good  haven. 

In  the  territory  of  Lucca  are  Lavenza,  on  a  j^n^.  ^ 
river,  (Aventia)  which  forms  a  small  haven.  Massa  *^ 
Carara,  a  league  from  the  sea,  a  small  town  on 
an  agreeable  plain  defended  by  a  castle;  two 
leagues  north  of  the  town  are  the  celebrated 
marble  quarries,  whence  the  town  derives  its 
name.  Via  Reggio  is  a  small  town  on  a  bay  sur- 
rounded by  high  shores,  but  entirely  open  to  the 
soutL 

Pisa,  on  the  Amo,  amongst  marshes,  a  quarter    ^,,,^0^^ 
of  a  mile  from  the  sea,  is  an  antient  and  handsome 
townof  6,000inhabitants,  with  several  finechurches, 
an  university,  a  botanic  garden,  and  three  bridges, 
one  of  which  is  of  white  marble.     It  is  celebrated 
as  the  birth-place  of  Galhleo,  and  for  its  antient 
commerce,  which  is  now  reduced  to  the  export  of 
a  little  oil  and  some  artificial  flowers,  all  .the  trade 
of  Tuscany  being  concentered  in  Leghorn. 
.  Leghorn,  Livoma  Italian,    Livoume  Prendv 
{Portus  Herculk  Luhrom\  has  50,000  inhabUants, 

of 


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igS  MARITIME  eEOGRAPBY. 

n^y.  c^  whom  20,000  are  Jews.  It  was  before  the  late 
revolutions  one  of  the  chief  tiding  cities  of  Itdy, 
being  a  free  port  and  all  rdigions  tolerated^  ItsT 
port  is.  fOTmed  by  a  mok  a  mile  in  lengthy  bu& 
from  the  sand  washed  into  it  requires  contmual 
clearings  for  which  purpose  a  number  of  gaflef 
daves  are  kept  employed ;  the  siand  being  con- 
ve3red  to  some  neighbouring  marshes  to  raise  the 
ao^t  and  render  them  more  healthy.  The  city  ia 
supplied  with  water  from  the  Amo,  by  a  canal 
five  leagues  in  length,  which  is  navigated  by  boats«u 
Here  are  three  lazarettos.  Three  miles  west  of 
the  port  is  the  Mallora  bank,  a  league  long  with 
at  least  ten  feet  depth,  and  at  its  south  extremity 
a  rode  with  a  tower. 

Rosigdano,  Cecina,  on  the  river  of  the  same 
name,  and  St.  Vicenza,  are  smaU  places  norUx  of 
Piombina  Piombino  promontory  is  a  peninsula^ 
having  the  gulf  of  Latruie  or  port  fiurrano  on  the 
north,  and  the  bay  of  Piombino  on  the  south  ;  on 
the  west  shore  of  the  latter  is  the  little  fortified  towa 
o£  Piombino. 

Castiglione  is  only  worthy  of  notice  from  its 
magnificent  aqueducts ;  in  its  vicinity  is  a  large  sea 
lagoon.  Xallamone,  between  two  litde  rivers^  is 
a  small  place.  Orbitello  is  on  the  lake  of  the  same 
name,  which  is  six  leagues  in  circuit,  but  very 
shallow :  it  communicates  with  the  sea  by  a  chan- 
nel, called  Porto  Stephano,  and  is  celebrated  for  its 
eels,  which  it  supplies  to  Rome  and  Naples  through- 
out the  year.  It  is  boundedon  the  south  by  Mount 
Argenteiat  ahigh  peninsular  promontory. 

Porto 


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THE  MCDITBRIAKSAK— ^ITALT.  193 

Porto  Hercole  (Tortus  HencuUs  Co&samjf  on  the 
sottth  side  of  Argentero,  is  a  gpp4  harbour  sur- 
rounded by  very  high  land;^  the  village  is  on  a. 
ste^aodivity^  and  protected  by  a  little  fort. . 

Carneto  on  the  Marta  is  insignificant.,/  Ciy'iTXSMfqrth^ 

^^  '  Church. 

VifcCHiA    (Centum  CeUce)  has  9,000"  iohabitants      — 
and  some  trade  ^  its  haven  is  f(»ined  by  a  mole 
raised  on  a  bank  before  a  little  cove,  leaving  two> 
channels^  that  on  the  east  being  fit  for  ships,  and 
in  the  hav^n  the  depth  is  five  or  sis:fath<Mns.  Here 
the  na^r  force  of  the  Pope,  consisting  of  half  ^ 
dozenrgdUieSj  mex^h&pL    Pala  is  the  only  place 
(tf  imy  ccHisideration  between  Civita  Vecchia  and 
the  moutihr  of  the  Tiber.    Thfe  river  (Tiberis)  has 
Its  source  m  the  Appennines,  and  atler  receiving. 
140  streams  in  a  coarse  of  150  miles,  empties 
itB^  among  marshes  formed  by  its  alluvion.     It 
has  two  principal  branches  formed  by  the  JsoUt 
Sagra :  the  southern  is  named  Fiumicino,  or  the 
Little  River,  and  is  the  only  one  practicable,  and' 
cmly  for  very  small  draft ;  its  mouth  is  enclosed, 
between  two  piers,  and  is  the  port  of  Claudius,  so 
pompot^ly  described  by  Juvenal  in  his  twelfth 
satire  j  it  is  also  supposed  to  be  the  spot  where 
lEsiezA  landed*     On  the  left  bank,  three  miles 
from  the  sea  and  five  leagues  below  Rome,  is 
Ostia,  a  mined  town,  chiefly  inhabited  by  galley 
slaves,  who  work  in  the  salt-mines.    On  the  Isda 
Sagra,  whose  formation  is  subsequent  to  the  time 
of  the  ancient  Romans,  is  only  a  single  house  and 
some  fishing  huts  j   large  herds  of  bufialoes  are 
pastured  on  it.    The   commercial    objects  that 
VOL.  II.  o  Rome 


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W4y  '   Mm^mat  nootAfanr. 

SS^,*^   Rome  aflbrds,  ctmdBCmg  of  wtHfiL^^  flMrart,  p^ 
~      matum,  gloves^  mi  hsteboSan  pkfMil  lAdulgiBi^ 
ceS|  are  eicported  by  C^tia. 

Between  the  I^er  and  Tei&raciiia  thensoaat  i» 
atrewed  with  the  raias  of  tile  villas  of  the  umsieDt 
Romans,  which  in  some  pboeB  are  noi^  far  in^tha^ 
sea,  proving  its  eiutroachmeat  mi  tins  part  o£  tibte 
coast. 

Capo  d'Anzo,  six  or  seven  kc^pies  sduth  of  th* 
Tiber,  is  a  rocky  pTomodtory ;  a  mile  east;  of  it- 
is  Porto  d'An2o  (^JMtium)^  ^  port  iWT.lS^^tliinc^ 
forme4  by  a  causeway  and  mole^  wllicfa^  id^cdtM  it 
firom  all  winds  but  between  £.  aiu}  NJ&.  The 
d^th  is  thirteen  feet,  butit  requkte  thecooafeaot 
labour  of  150  galley  slaves  to  keep  itfreopr  beii^ 
,  choked  up.  At  the  juacttoo  of  ihe  oms^^ny^ 
and  mok  is  a  battery,  and  aaotber  o»  tfao:  Oioki 
head,,  which  commands  all  the  bal^  betWeei^  Gapa 
d'Anzo  and  Nettuno.  This  latter  is  ai.toiwi^  of 
S^OQO  inhabitants  at  the  mouth  of  the  L^racitia;; 
it  is  surroniided  by  a  wall  and  pampet,  iPTit^  » 
ditch  and  towers  on  tJie  land  aide* 

Betvdeen  Astura,  a  large,  handsome  tower^* 
famoofi  for  the  death  of  Cicero,  and  Cape  Oud* 
oeUo,  the  west  point  of  the  gulf  of  G«tt%.  the 
Pontine  marshes  tine  the  ^orev  and  exhafe  pes* 
t]ients^  vapours.  On  Cape  Circello^  which  it  a 
hiii^h  rocky  peiuDBiriai:  pronbntoiy^  making  lil^ 

•  Thm  4r«  many  siieb  toweis  on  the  coast  of  Italy^  a$  potecticm 
flgaimt  the  corsairs,  the  tower  of  Astura  wah  buiTt  bf  ttc  ft^pes'  as  % 
nett«air  in  t&kiei  of  danger. 


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THE  Mm>ffmfUL^mAif^^nALY.  19i^ 

«a  .|(»Iaiid,  sHSid  celebrated  ,a^  the:  kdbilation  of 
Cikde^  is  the  castle  of  S&  F^ix  and  tb^ee  or  foiif 
lowers* 

Termcina  (Amnsr)  i^  only  worthy  notice  fop 
its  Koman  antiquities ;  it  is  built  on  the  side  of  i^ 
sxiountain;  «> 


KINGDOM  OF  NAPLES. 

The  west  coast  of  the  kingdom  lof  Ns^les  is  in*  i^j*^ 
dented  ;bj  many  gulfs^  of  which  tb^  P^^^  consi- 
derable are  those  of  Gaeta».N^les», JSalemfv  Fo^ 
licaatro,  St.  Euphemia,  and  Giojiu  Tb^  ^ulf  of 
Craekajb  Ufnited  by  Cape  Circ^  c(n  jd^^  wf^t,>  and 
by,  Ca^  .Misena  and,  tbe  island  pf  ^^ua>  w,  the. 
eaj^  -;(?aje  Circello  if  .an  elwatftd  ,proii¥)»tory. 
with  twf  points  nearly  si|c  miles  asunder^  and  9a 
t^^aft^idei^  the.  little  cove  of  St  F^icit^  for 
small  crafL  The  riven  Erivando,  Garigliana 
(lirif),  and  Volturmus,  empty  themselves  into  thcr 
goif ;  the  chief  places  on  which  are  Fondi,  aa 
ancient. piQr  two  leagues, east  of  Terracinai  on  a 
lagooQr  nine  m^es  long,  communicating  with  thief 
sea i^B^ounding ia eds^  but  acpessibte  only  ta 
boats.  Gaeta,  a  strong  fortress;  .00  the  rqck^ 
mo)p|;aiir  pron^oiitQry  o^  Sajat^  Tripidad,  wifc;h 
is^  jc^ped  tt^f  th^  r^^^  Py  -*  n»row,  ped^  lai  l^pdw 
l4  this  g^i^^rpckis  an.afqiiazing^^  j^op  tqp  ta 
bqfteiifV.  j^^  large  block  1^  inarble  hav^^  G^m\ 

o  2  tradition 


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196  MARITIME  GEOORAPHT. 

jiM«.  tradition  and  belief^  the  rock  was  thus  separated 
*t  the  moment  that  our  Saviour  gave  up  the  ghost 
on  the  cross,  when  "  the  earth  did  quake  and 
^  the  rocks  rent"  It  was  formerly  a  famous 
pilgrin^age,  and  the  chapel  was  enriched  by  the 
offerings  of  the  pious  seamen  who  sailed  past  the 
promontory.  The  road  of  Gaeta  is  well  shelter- 
ed, except  from  S.  to  S.E.,  and  it  has  a  pier  haven 
for  small  craft.  Mola  di  Gaeta  is  a  small  town 
three  miles  east  of  Gaeta,  and  on  the  sdte  of 
the  antient  Formia. 

Before  the  gulf  of  Gaeta  are  many  small  islands, 
i>iz.  Falmarola;  three  miles  long  but  very  narrow  j 
Ponza,  fbur  miles  long  and  half  a  mile  broad, 
surrounded  by  tocks,  but  having  on  the  N.E.  a 
sandy  cove  with  good  anchorage  within  a  mole, 
where  fresh  water  is  abundant ;  Gianuti,  Sennor, 
and  Zannoni,  islets  N.E.  of  Ponza  j  Botti,  a 
group  of  rocks  east  of  the  saitie  island,  and  Ven- 
totienne  (Pandataria)  famous  for  the  exile  of  Ju- 
Ha,  daughter  of  Augustus;  it  produces  wine> 
fruits,  and  cotton;  St  Stefano,  ferther  to  the 
S.E.  These  islands  are  entirely  composed  of 
volcanic  matters,  and  the  rocks  of  the  same  nature 
betw^ta  them  seem  to  indicate  their  having  been 
acndehtly  united;  '' 

'  Thfe  Gulf  or  Bay  of  Naples  has  for  its  limits 
datpe  Miseno  and  the  ide.  of  Ischia  on  the  west, 
add  *Ca^' Minerva,  or  Campanile  (bclfiry)  Point, 
(JiHtefMBibw^om.),  on  Ihe  east,  the  distance  beii^ 
m^  leagues. '  On  Cape  Minerva  are  the  ruibs  of  a 
fiiitperb  tendple  Of  tibe  goddess  whose  name  it  beiura. 

■  The 


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THE .  MBDITB&IUKEAN — ITALY.  197 

Hid,  bay  18  of  a  seimcircular  form^  surrounded 
by  an  amptutbeatre  of  mountains,  and  has  twenty 
leagues  of  shore.  The  mountain  of  Fausihppo 
privets  into  it,  and  divides  it  into  two  unequal 
portions,  the  easternmost  being  much  the  largest ; 
and  the  shores  are  besules  indented  with  numerous 
coves,  formii^  natural  ports. 

There  is  perhaps  no  portion  of  the  globe  that 
.has  been  the  subject  of  so  many  descriptions  as 
the  shores  of  the  Bay  of  Naples,  for  none  seems 
to  have  undeigone  the  same  vicissitudes.  The 
picture  of  the3e  shores,  drawn  by  a  modem  French 
yrriter,  being  the  most  animated  as  well  as  the  most 
correct  we  have  seen,  we  shall  make  no  apology 
for  translating  it. 

"  After  a  lapse  of  many  centuries,  the  ves- 
tiges of  the  terrible  subterraneous  fires  that  con- 
vulsed these  coasts  are  still  visible.  The  lakes 
Acheron,  Avanus,  and  others  that  border  the 
.sea,  are  incontestably  the  craters  of  ancient  vol- 
canoesy  as  well  as  the  enormous  cones  reversed, 
which  are  every  where  seen  on  the  shores,  on 
the  summits  of  the  mountains,  on  their  sides, 
and  at  their  feet.  ITie  remembrance  of  the  most 
antient  convulsions  were  handed  down  by  tradi- 
tion, and  being  embellished  by  the  poetic  imagi- 
nation o£  the  Greeks,  whose  colonies  were  esta- 
blished on  these  shores,  from  them  was  formed 
the  mythology  of  the  infernal  gods.  The  yawning 
fissures,  several  of  whiph  still  shewed  the  exis- 
jtence  of  internal  firest  by  the  smoke  that  issued 
from  them^  while  others  emitted  pestilential  vor 
pours,  were  easily  conceived  to  be  the  gates  of 
Q  3  Tartarus, 


/Mat. 


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19S      ^        wiMTUfis  cffiMffRAPmr. 

Tartaras,  and  the  entnuces  to  tife  f^ealm^  of 
^beath.  Temples  were  erected  <yn  feheir^edgetl,  M 
which  the  worsfaippers  arrived -by  subterraneM^ 
passa^s,'  and  hence  tiie  &ble8  of  <  the  9yliS»|  and 
the  descents  to  the  infiBroal  regions. 

**  Nature  having  doubdess  reposed  fceftpelf  for 
ages,  the  fertility  of  these  coonlrias  was  penewed^ 
and  men  invited  by  this  fertility,  as  well  as  by  the 
seremty  of  the  climate,  crowded  to  iheir  (iioreB« 
The  city  of  Cumes  was  founded  in  llie  middle  of 
the  ^Rilegrean  plains,  probably  hy  a  colony  of 
^Greeks.  Other  cities  succeeded,  and  ifermed  M 
many  petly  sovoneigntieB,  sometimes  at  war  wiliii, 
eadi  other,  sometimes  allied,  until  att  were  at  laft 
absorbed  in  the  Roman  empire. 

**  The  Romans,  masters  of  the  known  w<n4d,  and 
-enriched  by  the  qvofls  of  the  east,  thought  only 
ci"  enjoyment.  Tired  of  ilie  monotonoos  splendoiir 
of  the  capital,  they  sought  in  the  country  the. 
-dtarms  of  tranqmUity  -united  wil^  luxury.  But  m> 
part  of  Italy  ^kred  sudi  nattxral  advantages  aa 
the  shores  of  the  Bay  of  Naples;  blessed  wit^  a 
genial  dimate,  a  serene  sky,  betoti:fol  scenery, 
and  possessing  abundance  of  warm  springs  ^r  the 
formation  of  baths,  become  necessary  to  the  now 
•effeminate  Romans;  these  sh^es  were  ^radudly 
covered  with  villas  ai^  temples,  and  il'om  Cepe 
Afiseno  to  Sarrentum  seemed  to  tJie  ^ye  but  onfe 
continned  city.  Within  this  extent  were  *he 
towns  of  Misettum,  Baia,  Direachea  of  Puterfik 
(Pfl«wafc),  Neapites  (M^pfe^),  HercidMWjm, 
Bompeia,  Stah^a,  and  SOTrentum,  each  of  ^hich 
^.'  'bad 


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t&^  MmammA^xik»^xiiAtr.  199 

jud  its  tfaeatfe^  ftrnphtAeatre^  forum,  and  an  in^^     ^2!ff * 
credible  .mnnber  of' itemjde^,  whose  rums  attest 
4ttwirJoa§^ufic60CB« 

^<  Atfength  oaature  seemed  &tigued  widi  sd  muoh 
]iooip  and  splendoor.  frequent  earthquakes  first 
aiarmed'thevokiptuous  inhabitants^  and  were  the 
•precufsocs  of  a  dreadftd  crisis.  Vesuvius  'th^ai 
preatnted  the  appearance  of  an  ancient  vdcano^ 
but  (nothing  indicated  that  its  ^res  were  .not  en^ 
tircify. extinct;  it8>sides  were  highly  cidtivated  in 
their  afdide  dicumfbrence,  and  its  eummit  alone 
appeased  acid  and  burnt,  iii  the  first  year  c^  the 
nign  of  Titus  lits  fires  burst  forth  suddenly ;  ri- 
vers of  Aaid  h^  and  mud  issued  ftcm  it,  as  well 
as  clouds  of  ashes  and  pummice  stone,  which 
avBralielmed  all  the  east  shores  of  the  bay,  and 
frpm  Herctdaneum  to  Stafaia,  a  chain  of  hills, 
ooapqpMed  of  diese  sidnttances,  occupied  the  place 
of  ^M3tfle  ieUs*  These  two  townisf,  ^as  well  as 
foaxpeia^  fdiaappeared,  while  the  west  shore  suf- 
ficed jnolhing,  tbe  lava  stopping  at  Naples,  which 
itself  remised /bnt^ttle  damage. 

^  llieiigh  the  terror  inspired  byitfais .  catastrophe, 
united  probabfy  to  the  insalubriiy  of  tlie  afanos- 
fbme  itiO€<ia»oaed,  csused  nac^  raimbers  to  Ay 
SxHBi'^  tiact  that  .had^beeouspared,  that  Javenai 
afqdies  :the  ^ithet  ofjleseri  to  Cum^ :  neyerthe* 
kss  themblescdf  ftomesttUpassedaport  of  the  year 
on  these  lAunres,  .nor  ido  we  Jcnow  the  epodi  when 
tii^  becaaae  unsidiabkaide,  ^though  weuu^  sup- 
pose i^  withppobabflity  tabairebeenduring  the  ages 
^  barbarism  that  wcceeded  this  fiUQ  of  the  Roman 

o  4  empire* 


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200  UARITIM£  6E00RAPHT. 

Wrt'  ^.mpire.  The  apfpearance  of  the  shores  and  tbe 
ruins  that  cover  them,  from  Cape  Miseno  to  Pau^ 
silippo,  attest  the  ravages  of  one  or  more  convul* 
sions  posterior  to  the  grand  one  in  the  reign  of 
Titus.  The  mountains  have  been  torn  into  firag- 
raents,  the  passages  to  tiie  subterraneous  temples 
filled  up,  and  the  temples  themselves  eidier  de- 
stroyed or  cUsplaced,  while  it  is  also  particularly 
evident,  that  the  sea  rushed  with  rapidity  over  the 
land,  from  which  it  is  now  again  slowly  retiring. 
The  only  convulsion,  however,  of  which  the  date 
has  been  preserved,  is  that  of  1538,  in  which  the 
Lucrine  Lake,  so  famous  for  its  oysters,  was 
greatly  reduced,  and  a  mountl^n  rose  in  its 
place.*' 

.  The  present  appearance  of  these  celebrated 
shores  now  demands  our  notice.  Between  Ciq)e 
Miseno  and  Pozzuolo,  a  sterile  mountainous  coast 
is  offered  to  the  view.  Cape  Miseno  is  a  block  of 
tufa,  of  considerable  elevation,  and  was  evidently 
a  volcano,  the  crater  of  which  may  still  be  traced 
on  the  south,  though  neariy  worn  away  by  the 
action  of  the  sea.  The  interior  part  of  the  moan- 
tain  is  pieited  with  immense  caverns  and  subterra^ 
neous  streets,  suppoised  by  i^Uanzani  to  have  been 
magazines  for  the  Roman  fleets,  which  rendez- 
voused in  a  port  sheltered  by  the  cape,  the  piers 
of  which  are  still  seen  level  with  the  water*  The 
remains  of  the  town  of  Mis^num,  situated  on  the 
cape,  consist  of  a  theittre  and  the  ruins  o£  some 
monuments.  On  the  north  of  the  cape  is  the  bke 
Acheron^  called  the  Mai«  Morta»  which  has  a 

commu^ 


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THE  MSDrraUUKBAK— 'ITALY.  20l 

commiuiication  with  the  sea,  and  abounds  with     ^v^ 
eels  and  barbels. 

It  would  be  in^possible  to  discover  the  site  (^the 
voluptuous  Baaa,  if  it  was  not  pointed  out  by  the 
ruins  of  some  grand  buildings  on  the  shore  and 
wider  watery  a  con^erable  distance  in  the  s^ 
three  miles  north  of  Cape  Miseno.  The  vapours 
which  exhale  from  the  various  craters,  from  the 
solfaterra,  from  the  lakes  and  hot  springs,  and 
from  the  marshes  formed  by  the  waters,  which 
anciently  flowed  in  superb  aqueducts,  infect  the 
atmosphere  of  these  shores,  and  hence,  between 
Cape  Miseno  and  Fo^zudo  there  is  scarce  a  habi« 
tation.  Hie  more  healthy  situation  of  the  latter, 
on  a  point  of  land  advancing  into  ^the  sea,  has 
drawn  some  inhabitants  to  it,  and  when  past  it  the 
scene  improves,  the  promontory  of  PausiUppo  and 
the  island  of  Nisida,  like  a  rock  of  verdure,  giv« 
ing  some  animaticm  to  the  landscape.  Lake 
Avemus  is  surrounded  by  elevated  groimds,  and 
having,  in  some  parts,  a  considerable' dq>th,  it 
might  be  made  an  excellent  port,  by  cutting  a 
comniunication  with  the  sea,  half  an  Italian  mile 
in  length.  The*  poisonous  qualities  ascribed  to  its 
waters  by  tbo  ancients  no  longer  exist ;  for  it  now^ 
possesses  fish  in  abundance,  the  birds  fly  over  it, 
and  men  bathe  in  it  with  impunity*  The  Lucrine 
lake  now  covers  three  or  four  acres,  and  is  distant 
from  the  sea  about  ten  yards,  a  sluice  forming  the 
conmiunication. 

From  PausiUppo  a  new  world  opens  on  the  eye,. 
the  shore  being  thickly  dotted  with  noble  buUd- 

ings. 


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iDgs,  in  the  midst  of  lieMkifvil  pl^i^iitiMllt    ^ff^r 
pies  presents    itself  rising  amphjA6atnip%  (^ 
the  side  ef  a  nMwaotaw,;*  md  }^<»yo^.it  i^^^^a^ 
plain^  nch  in  oottiratiQA»  aod  YI»t;^Q<l  ibgr  tb^ 
tKmdingdktle  nver  Sftbrtcu    Qb  -the  SJ^^t^iJ^^ 
tk^  I>8y»  ^esuviiifi,  M^tb  it»  dmiblesy^^Qgo^  ^C(^ 
etantLy  emitting  maoke,  ^itftrts  |ip  sptititfry  :&cfa^ 
plain,  and.  is  jcsoitwated  twodthird^.  of,  ^Jf^e^ghi^ 
its  summit  vxAy  bei^g  jaweof  yeg^^tioii:  ^  \t^ 
odes  apd  at  its  foot  are  scattered  to¥f9s,  ^f^^ee* 
and  "vilias,  liuilt  on  the  lavas  /of  ^ucceesive  enipr 
tioaifi,  jwhichiijne  hasxsouMert^  mtfhthe  uumt;fexr 
Hie  of  afiils.  But  while  ibe  «ye  o^^ts  with  jCpa^idar 
cenq^  (an  this  sauling  ^iro^etct,   a.  ^efiiimettt  of 
aaedajQoholy  xranmt  f»l.ix>  accim^aiQr  the  ceiffeai* 
bmiKe,  that  msivf  ^srihom^  .dci^  lie  hwi^  the 
palaces  and  gardens  of  the  i^neknt  muslers  df  the 
wodd*    Portia^  three  m^iles  eaat   of  N)^|tle9»  lii 
buik  over  Hecoulai^smn,  jwbich^  ^  weU  f^  Poiq^ 
peia,  has  ibeen  for  raanjrjtew^  OKhlliniPft  .if  vWe 
;nay  use  the  esipreasbn^  ^d  the  ti^v^er^  with 
a  feeling  of  aatoniBhixient  aod  va^er^i^Mi,  walJ^ 
in  streets  .aod  enters   housas  which  l^ave  Ji^i^ 
buried   for  seventeen    ceatudes.     These  .owe* 
whelmed  ciiies.are  chiefly  built  of  wA  pay^  m^ 
biva»  and  beneath  their  £)uadatiop^.a|^e  pevai^l,^ 
temate  strata  of  this  subatiMiice.  9nd  pf  y^^gf^sibie 

soil* 


•  Naples  has  from  360  to  380,000  inhabitants,  and  ^  d^eoiM.^  J^fffn 
castles  and  other  fortifications*  Its  port,  which  is  one  of  the  most  fre- 
quented of  Itjfly,  Is  formed  by  a  mole,  on  the  extremity  of  wUdt  jb  a  light- 
bcMc,  ,a&d  J0  i»|f«)lfti>f :  btfUta&twa  #aU  li^ptrf$«t  sQQVfUr^ 


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THE  »litMflMHtil?N«Ay^^wttta.Y>  4S0S 

mM,  ki  ^tiak  tbe^wmains  df  fdants  are -discoi^er-  ^i!:' 
td;  *wfaenoe  it  seesm  Jiigfafy  prabaUe  tbst,  >k>ng . 
b«fi>re  ^Ibe  'mttibikhmmt  of  die  people  1i^  caM 
mufients  on  these  cosMts,  nations  $hsekakefy  ^uiv 
ICBown  to  tbein,  as  19^  as  tto  <nB,  inhdnted  this 
t(ril,  ^ttd  ^wer^  dfvwn  ftom  It  ibj>gi?eat  physicd 
eoiiviilsions. 

Tbe-eaM  ai^  €outh  shoves  4/£ die  bay  rise  pet^ 
fmdStJtilarly  ici  volcMnc  dift  to  a  great  height, 
immediatelj  behind  which  aore  high  mountains^ 
<3ik/l^eiAmiik  verdure  to  their  smniaits,  and  Ihek 
iides  agreeably  dotted  "ffitik  vHlages.  On  iAnk 
side  are  Oastel-a^Mare,  with  a  haven  &nned  by  a 
mole,  where  vessds  of  waravebuflt;  and  Sosrento^ 
the  antient  Surrentum,  built  on  a  peninsula  oveiw 
banging  ti^  "water,  and  one  of  the  handsomest 
towns  of  the  litQgdonu 

In  the  Bs^  of  Naples  .ave  the  islands  of  Isdiii^ 
fVocida,  /Nisida,  O^ri,  and  some  lesser  ones* 
isbhia  (^Pif^scuM)  is  two  leagues  distant  itom 
Cspe^lVKseno;  it  is, four  leagues  long,  two  broad, 
atid  six  jn  <;ip<^m«fePenoe,  and  consists  of  one 
litfge  afifd  severtil  lesser  hills,  «)1  formed  by  the 
emptiMd -of  avoleano  4t  coiftained.  Jt  abounds 
inmetiinicMritotanees,  has  many  hot  sprii^,  and 
is  fertile,  producing  wine,  figs,  oranges,  pome^ 
granites,  ^ihesnirte,  aloes,  i&c.  C^  the  east  aide 
is^i^e  'town  ^ell  fortified,  and  having  a  -^Md 
rcsUSt  (lefended  by  a  eitaddl  on  an  isolated  rock, 
a  iquattei*  of  a  nUle  in  circuit,  and  j^ed  to  'the 
town%  a  bnkj^.  Tbetie  are  also  several  villages 
imtheislMd. 

'  •  '  Procida 


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HOif  .     MARITIME  GEOGRAPHY* 

y,^^        Procida  (Prochyta)  is  between  Ischia  and  Oipe 
Misepo :  it  is  six  miles  in  circuit,  d^d  though  onty 
a  level  mass  of  tufa,  is  covered  with  vines,   figs^ 
and  orange  trees.    Its  coasts  are  indented  with 
little  circular    coves,    conjectured  to,  have  been 
craters :   one  of  these  covejs  on  the  south,  forms 
a  small  port,  defended  by  a  castle.     A  short  dis- 
tance east  of  Procida  is  a  shoal,  called  the  Bank  of 
Burnt  Stones,  elevated  some  feel  above  the  aea, 
but  ovex  which  the  waves  break  in  bad  weather. 
In  fine,  weather  the  fishermen  dry  their  nets  on  it. 
Close  to  the  S.W.  point  of  Procida  is  the  little 
Island  Vivaro,  with  a  watch-tower.     On'  Ischia 
and  Procida  are  many  villas  of  the  Neapolitan 
nobility. 

Nisida  is  before  a  small  cove  near  the  west 
side  of  the  promontory  of  Pausilippo:  it  is  only  one 
mile  and  a  half  in  circuit,  but  has  two  small  ports, 
Porto  Pavona,  so  named  from  its  resemblance  to 
a  peacock's  tail,  on  the  soufji,  and  the  other  on 
the  north.  In  the  latter  ships  bound  to  Naples 
from  the  Levant  perform  quarantine,  the  la- 
zaretto being  situated  on  a  detached  rock.  East 
of  Nisida  are  the  islets  Copino  and  Gajdb,  the 
latter  thus  named  from  its  numerous  small 
caverns. 

Capri  (Cd^tf^r),  .cdebrated  as  the  retreat  of 
Augustus,  and  the  theatre  of  the  infamous  plea- 
sures ot  Tiberius,  is  four  miles  long  east  and  west, 
and  one  broad.  The  western  half  of  it  is  a  vast 
mass  of  rock  of  gceat  height  and  inaccei^iblefrom 
the  seat    The  eastern  end  also  rise?,  in  elevated 

precipices. 


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THE  M£Dn^RRAM£Al^--ltALT.  S6^ 

precipices,  and  between « these  two  mountains  Fapin. 
is  a  little  vaHey  covered  with  fig-trees,  al- 
vondsy  orangesr  olives,  myrtles,  and  vines,  pre^ 
senting  a  singular  and  highly  interesting  con- 
trast  with  the  rooky  precipices  on  each  side. 
This  island  enjoys  a  perpetual  spring,  whence,  aa 
well  aS'  from  its  facility  of  defence,  it  was  doubts 
less  chosen  by  Tiberius  as  a  retreat.  It  has  se- 
vteral  springs  of  good  water,  and  about  1,^00 
inhabitants,  leho  chiefly  occupy  a  little  town  in 
the  valley,  and  are  free  from  taxes.  The  island 
is  annually  visited  by  vast  flocks  of  quails  inf 
March,  of-  whidh  from  twelve  to  60,000,  and 
feven  160,000  ha^e  been  taken  in  nets  in  one  yeaf 
and  sold  at  N^^s. 

The  (jutf  of   Saiemo-  (P^sidoniate)  is  limited  wncip^iHy 

*.  Citerieurc* 

on  the  west  by  Cape  Minerv^  and  on  th^  e^itst4>y 
Cape  Licos2l:-it  receit^s  <iie  Kftle,  river  'Sale 
(Sileris).  Ott  it  are  Amal*!,)  21  town  ^f  9,000  in^^ 
hid^ntants,  without  a *pc^  and  its  i^oad  exposed*^ 
south  and  S.W.  Saierno,  a^tiieiiead  of  thegut^ 
has  10,000  inhabitants,  aiydk  ^to>jt>nly  a  road  fm 
shipping  :  it  has  an  annui^^lair%  Vicenza,  Ag^ 
ripoli,  and  Pesto  (Paestum),  are  small  {daces,  oft 
the  east  side  of  the  gulf  Isle  Longa  and  the 
Galli  (Gocks)  rocks,  incient  SireM,  are  east  ^f 
Cape  Minerva,  one  mile  and  a  half  fropi  the 
shore ;  and  south  of  Cape  licosa  is  Plana  Idand, 

Ascea,  between  the  Gulf  of  Salerno  and  Cape 
Falinura,  is  insignificant.  TheOulf  of  Poficastxo 
(Laos)  has  Cape  Cirdla  on  the  south.  It  has 
good  anchorage  in  all  parts ;   the  river  Bato  falls 

into  > 


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906  .  MJMMxsKBr  GBoraAHinc^  , 

_  intioitr'  Folica»tro  (^BmeiOma^  %t  the  head  c€  tht 
gulf,  b  ahnodt  ft  rain :  its  road  is  sheltaned  froHt 
all  winds  but  south* .  The  islands  Pour  aad  MsAr 
tiiseca  arci  ia  this  gulft 
cdMt.  .  Mariata^  Scalaa  oh  the  Lao^  DUmdBte,  Ce^ 
trarcH  Mkd  Ainaalea»  are  smajl  iowBS,  betwe€]i 
the  gblfe  of  Foticatttro  and  St  Euf^becxua*  Tba 
latter  gMlf  is  limited  on  the  noftft  by  Cape  Suveiic^ 
aad. on  the  south  hy  Ci^6  Vaticano;  it  affor^^ 
no  good  aochorage^  the  depth  being  great  and  the 
bottom  rocky.  St  Eupltemia^  Fi^zd,  and  Tri^>ea« 
are  smstt  towns  on  the  g)al£ 

The  Gulf  of  Gioja»  or  NiCK)t0m»  has  Cape  V» 
ticana  on  Ibe  Qorth  and.  the  Faco^of  Messina  oa 
the  south.  Nicotera  and  Gioja  are  small  toifiiftt 
Eodactlo,  oir  tht^  Metaoro,  has  Q^OOO  inhabitaattr* 

Eaising  the  Fron^o^t^My  of  Scyll*  whi(^  hw 
beeft  alr^y  notioedt  ^:  first  place  in  the  Gulf 
of  Mesain&is  H^QiRhegium^i  on  thf  side  of  a 
biU;  thou^  almost  d^tiroyed  by  the  earthquakfidf 
17S3>  it  has  reclov^resd  a  part  of  its.  consideratioBy 
havil^  considerable.  $ianu&ctories  of  spun  ^  silkj 
2sc.  Ita  gpthic  j^atheclral  is  'm>rtby  of  notaee*  it 
baa  Tio  potU  s^  hut  indifferent  (aa^orage  cIos» 
y  to- J  the  shore.  I9  following  the  south  eowt  oS 
Cal»bria  we  vm^%  C»pe  del  Arnv  (l^eucqpetra  <f9 
White)^  theti  Cape  ^ps^t^nta  (ffeif^td^umX  alow 
point  Md  the  &&  extreaiity  <)f  Jjtalys  dpubUqg 
which  we  enter  tbe  lottan  Sea 
lenunset.  Cap^  Butrzatitf  (>2^%rM0»>;i8r  tfafP^'  01^  finnr 
lea^ea  west  of  Spartiv^MUn  nqd  the.  vextn^ 
ngiiikaUe  point  if  Cape  de  8tilo  (jC!9^jttlia»)>  the 
,  ,  south 


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THE  JBDcn»sA3rsMrH»roia.T.  907 

jnhMtci  Ae  QtM  of  SquiUMe  :  midway  "^^ 
tet^^atri^  iiento6L  .iS^UiUalse  (^^c^lfczcM^V  finely  I'^^sm. 
dtoated  on  the  JRitfreloiia»\»  les^e  from  the  sea^ 
'^i^  jdmrat  deSstrcjed  by  tbe.  esHi^^  of  178^ 
C^ausaasXh  ott  Ae  saaie;guU>  i)^  10,000  mi 
iKeJlksciil^  ad  hitteriy  has  been  the  port  by  which 
£te3  NCOttbus  of  the  Iterant  Imve  bedn  introduced 
ilie9  Italy  and  Fhrikhe.  Ca|ie  B^aimto^  the  afKueaC 
Jyaptgwntri^  is  the  north  point  c^*  the  Gulf  of 
^tfJiHr^iBcyUaems)  ;  to  which  taeeeeds  Cape  Co- 
ibfiaa  (.Lymhim)^  which  has  its  name  frotn  the 
jmiiiPed  cohlmns  of  a  tem]de  of  Juno  I^cmaT 
it  is  a  lowf)aint»  with  a  lighthouse.  Grotona^ 
nohir  ^rf*  thili  cap^  celdbira«ed  as  the  schod  of  the' 
I'ytfaaginfead  :piiiIo9c>pfhy^  is  a  wretched  towi^  of 
^»ad&  iliteHoBtafHte^  'm  aa  indieatehy  situation ;  ita 
port,  wfaEch  las  been  kog  codstmcttngy  is  stiU  Ua-; 
inistedK,  The  river  Neto  (3?l&rt*a5)  ferther  north/ 
separates  the  two  Calabrias. 

IW  Cdsp^  del  Aiice  {Crimiia)  is  the  south  point  caiabri.. 
of  the  Gidf  of  Tartnta.  This  gaff  receivcar  swenrf  '"**"' 
cel6b];ated  dvera  of  antiquity  :  auch  are  the.  Cratis 
aiid  &fbari3^  whose  names  art  little  altered^  ai^ 
between  whidi  was  Sybarisi  so  famonii  for  the 
effnni&ate  yoiisiptnoiiBness  of  iti»  inhsd^itaata^  "Bii^ 
Bttm  (Rosckanm),  and  Bassie&to,  on  the  JkddsiBb^ 
are  of  HMie  fm38e<|uence. 

TdvoNT A  {Tarentum),  in  theN.W.  angte  of  the  T«mdio- 
gu3£f  was  once  the  ritai  of  Rorae^  and  had  an  ex^ 
idcUiDt  port  at  tl^  month  of  a  river,  but  which 
bsODmo^  choked  np  from  neglect,  commerce  de- 
MftiDd  it.    it  ha0  however  18^000  inhabitants,  and 

stiU 


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SOS  MARITIME  G£OOBAFHT.    / 

ff4,i€i,    stiil  derives  some  consideration  from  its  fisheri^  y 
7^^J^'    before  it  are  the  islands  of  St  Peter  and  St  Paul. 
Gallipoli  (CallipoUsJ,  on  the  north  shore  of  the 
gulf,  three  leagues  west  of  Cape  St.   Maria  di 
Leuca  fjapygiam),  the  north  point  of  the  gulf, 
is  situated  on  an  island  joined  to  the,  main  by  a 
bridge,  and  has  a  small  port,,  within  the  island  of 
St.  Andrew :  it  has  8,000  inhahitMits,  and  exports 
considerable  quantities  of  oil  and  cotton. 
Arf.rtc.         Passing  Cape  de  Leuca  we  enter  the  channel 
"^      of  Otranto,  which  leads  into  the  Adriatic,   and 
meet  in  succession  with  Cs^e  Otranto,  the  east 
point  of  Italy,  off  which  five  miles  is  a  reef  of 
breakers,  with  a  passage  for  small  craft  only  with- 
in^  itw     Otranto  ^  (Hydnmtunt)  is  a  small  town  with 
a  rampart,  shewing  twenty  guns  towards  the  sea, 
besides  a  castie  which  commands  the  haven  :   the 
latter  i%  fit  for  vessels  of  150  toi».  .  It  has  some 
trade  with  the  Levant. 

Brindisi  (Bnmdusiutn),  celebrated  in  antiquity, 
is  now  a  town  of  9,000  inhabitants,  with  a  castle 
on  an  islet ;  it  had  formerly  a  good  haven,  but 
which  was  destroyed  f  by  the  Venetians.  Ostuni, 
a  mile  from  the  sea  on  a  high  mountain,  has  4,000 
Ttm<icBiri.  inhabitants,  and  a  fort  with  seven  guns.  Mano- 
poli  10,000  inhabitants,  on  an  eminence  surround* 
ed  by  a  wall,  and  defended  by  a  castle  presenting 
twenty  to  thirty  guns  towards  the  sea.  Nola,  a 
large  village  with  a  castie  on  a  pmnt  of  the  shore. 

Bari,  a  city  of  80,000  inhabitants,  situated 
among  marshes  and  fortified  towards  the  sea ;  the 
steeple  of  its  cathedral  is  263  feet  high :  it  has  a 

pier 


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T8S  Jt£DITBRRANXAlf-^N4TALY.  909 

^T  haven  for  BtmH  craft,  and  exports  oil,  \f  kie, 
and  soap.  Molietta  and  Biftceglia  (VigUke)  are 
little  totnis  of  no  note,  but  agreeiibly  situated^ 
Trani  had  formerly  a  good  port,  but  Which  is  now 
choked  up ;  it  is  a  handsome  little  town.  Baiietta 
thews  eight  guns  towards  the  sesL^  it  has  a  pier 
haven,  and  exports  wine  and  oil. 

The  Gulf  of  Manfredonia  is  formed  on  the  cii^uMt«. 
north  by  the  great  promontory  of  Mount  St.  An- 
gelo  (Garganvm).  It  receives  several  rivers  of  an- 
cbnt  celebrity,  but  has  no  place  of  note  except 
Manfjiwdonia  (Sepontum)  on  the  north  shore, 
which  has  16,000  inhabitants,  and  a  good  port  for 
small  vessels  defended  by  a  castle.  It  exports  a 
Considerafole  quantity  of  salt  made  in  the  sea  Im^ 
goon  of  Salpe  to  the  south. 

Rodi,  on  the  extremity  of  the  promontoiy  of 
Mount  St.  Angelo^  is  a  small  open  town,  roman* 
tically  situated  on  the  brow  of  a  high  rock  pro- 
jectile over  the  sea ;  it  has  no  port,  but  exports 
a  little  oil  and  soap.  Near  the  coast  N.W.  of  Mount 
St  Angelo  are  the  islands  of  St  Eugenia,  Raga 
and  Cuthiari,  and  the  sea  lagoons  of  Varano  and 
Lesina,  in  which  salt  is  made ;  to  which  succeed 
the  Httle  towns  of  Civita-a-Mare,  Campo-Marino, 
Tenn<^  and  others  of  little  consequence. 

Ortona-a*Mare,  Francoville,  Pescara,  on  (the  s^twrn. 
liver  of  the  same  name  {Atemus)^  Atri  on  the 
Vomano,  and  Giulia  Nova,  are  all  insignificant 
{daces.  The  river  Tronto  (Trueritits)  separates 
the  kingdom  of  Naples  frpm  the  papal  dominions, 
pn  the  Adriatic. 

VOL.  II.  F  Off 


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Abnisxo* 


SIO  HARITIICE  GBOaRAPKT* 

-*w^  Off  the  ccast  of  Abruz^,  and  N-W.  of  tke 
promontory  of  Mount  St.  Angelo,  are.  the  Tre- 
miti  islands  (Diomedea)^  four  in  number :  St.  Ni- 
cola (Tremtt)  the  southern,  Capraria  the  eaj^^erq, 
St  Domino  {TrerUania)  the  western,  and  J^ana 
or  Gretaria,  a  little  islet  between  St.  (licola  ai^ 
St.  Domino. 
The  isle  Pianosa  is  east  of  the  Tremiti. 


STcSSE^.       The  territory  of  the  Church,  on  the  Adriatic, 
extends  firom  the  Tronto  to  the  Ferrara  branch  <^ 
the  Po,  which  separates  it  from  the  Venetian  ter-. 
ritory.*     The   coast  affords  few  objects  to   ia. 
elude  in  a  general  view,  having  neither  bays  nor 
headlands  worthy  of  notice.     The  sea  lagoon  of 
Commachio,  south  of  the  Po,  is  forty  leagues  in 
circuit,  and  is  celebrated  for  its  eels  (ibft^TYC/^a 
Romano)  which  are  sent  to  all  parts  of  Italy ;  it  is 
divided,  for  the  convenience  of  fishing,  into  ibrty 
compartments,  each  having  a  direct  omimunica- 
tion  with  the  sea.     The  rivers  which  descend  from 
the  Appenines  are  of  no  modem  note. 

Repatransone,  Peduso,  Porto  Lapido,  and 
Porto  Fermano,  are  small  towns  on  the  shore ;  the 
latter  is  on  an  eminence,  with  an  indi£b:ent  £>rt.' 
LoRETTO,  a  celebrated  place  on  a  hill  three  miles 
froiti  the  sea,  has.  G,000  inhabitants.     Here  is  the 

Santa 


•  In  1797  the  territory  of  the  church  on  the  Adi^atic,  and  of  Venice, 
were  farmed  into  t}ie  Cisalpine  Republic,  which  afterwards  tpok  the  name . 
of  the  Italian  Republic,  and  in  1805  were,  together  with  other  Itallam 
yfatW;  erected  Into  the  kingdom  of  Italy.  ...  .    ' 


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THB   MEDITBRRANEAN — ITALT.  211 

Santa  Casa,  or  holy  house  of  the  Virgin,  believed  Mrk^He. 
by  good  Catholics  to  have  been  transported  by  iVcit^S! 
angels  n'om  Nazareth  to  Dalmatia,  and  from 
thence  to  Loretto.  The  treasures  collected  in 
this  chapel,  the  oflferings  of  pilgrims  and  devo- 
tees, were  formerly  immense,  but  it  is  supposed 
that  the  gold  »and  preoious  stones  had  long  since 
been  replaced  by  less  precious  substitutes;  they 
vrere  however  removed  on  the  invasion  of  the 
Frend)  to  Rome,  the  image  *  of  the  Virgin  alone 
remaining,  which  Buonaparte  carried  off  with 
him,  but  afterwards  restored^ 

Ancona  is  an  ancient  town  of  20,000  itihabi- 
Jtaiits  on  tjieside  <tf  a^'hil},  on  whose'summit  is  a 
strong  citadel ;  being  a  free-  port,  -  it  had  f^&rmerly 
almost  the  whde  trade  of  the  papal  dbihinions. 
Its  port,  is  farmed  by  a  mole  2,000  ifeet  long,  100 
broad,  and  sixty-eight  high,  on  Whose  point  is  a 
battery  and  light*house,  arid  neai'ita  triumphal 
arch  of  white  marble,  Erected  to.  Trnjar^  and 
considered  as  the  most  perfect  remains  of  Roman 
saagnificence  existii^.  Aneona  haa*  a  lazaretto^ 
and  the  quarantine  laws  are  very,  strict,  no  vessel 
with  afoul  bill  of  healtii  being  permitted  to  enter 
the  papal^porte. 

SiNiGAOLiA,  named  firom  its  founders  OaUii  Se-^ 
nones^  is  a  town  of  12,000  inhabitants  on  the 
Misa,  which  rec^ves  small  craft,  but  large  vessfels 
lay  outside  in  a  pier  haven.  It  has  an  annual  fair; 
frequented  by  the  Greeks  of  the  Archipelago, 
who  exchange  their  honey,  wax,  tar,  &c.  for 
hemp,  wjieat,  silk,  &c. 

p  2  Fana 


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tlMClMrelu 


SIS  MARITIME  GEOOEAPHT* 

Fano  {Fanum  FcrtimiB)^  a  dm&ll  town  celebnited 
for  the  defeat  of  Asdrubal  by  the  Romaas ;  the 
port  is  formed  by  a  brancji  of  the  Metaurus, 
whose  main  branch  is  near  a  league  south  <tf  the 
town,  and  almost  dries  in  summer.  There  are 
numerous  antiquities  in  the  neigUxiurhood.  Bs- 
8AR0  {Pisattnm)  on  the  Foglia,  an  ancient  town 
of  12>000  inhabitants,  is  celebrated  for  its  figs. 
La  Catbolica,  a  village  on  the  summit  of  a  hill, 
has  its  name  from  having  a£S>rded  an  asylum  to 
the  orthodox  prelates  who  separated  firom  the 
Arians  at  the  council  of  Rimini. 

Rimini  (Armnium)^  on  the  Marechia,  has 
14^000  inhabitants,  many  haadsome  buildings  and 
Roman  antiquities*  Its  port  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river  is  lined  with  white  marble,  but  is  now  so 
filled  up  as  only  to  receive  fi^ng  boats,  and  its 
road  is  open  to  the  N.  and  N.E.  Cassenatica  has 
a  good  port  :  Cervia  Nuova  baa  large  salt-wwks* 
Porto  Candiano  a  small  town.  North  of  Rimini 
the  Fuimicino,  die  celebrated  Rubicorh  emptiea 
itself;  it  is  little  better  than  a  rivulet,  but  vesseb 
of  nine  feet  enter  its  mouth** 

Ravenna,  now  a  league  ifrom  the  sea,  had  for- 
merly a  good  port  and  considerable  trad^  It  i» 
tiow  ia  poor  place,  only  interesting  from  possess^ 
ing  the  tomb  of  Dante. 

Commachio,  on  the  la^xm  of  ifaatname»  among 
tmhealthy  marshes,  has  6,000  inhabitants  and 
eonsideraUe  salt-works* 

The 

•  IthattlieMiiMofP&H«dUtowahbitthead,«Bdtakeitliat^^ 
monairtheica. 


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THB  IfBDITBEaAKBAM*— ITALY.  219 

The  Territory  of  Venice  extends  from  the  north  -«^'^. 
bian6h  of  the  Po  to  the  Gulf  of  Trieste.  The  l^^^  ^ 
greater  part  of  this  extent  of  coast  is  composed  of 
low  msxAy  islands,  formed  by  the  Po  and  other 
riversl  The  Po  (Padus  and  Eridanus)  has  its  source 
in  the  Orisons  Alps,  and  after  a  course  of  i50 
miles,  empties  itself  by  sev^al  branches  amongst 
isknds  and  lagoons.  The  southern  branch,  whose 
mouth  is  south  of  the  Lake  Commachio,  is  called 
Po  Frimeiro:  Po  de  Ferrara  is  north  of  the  same 
lake.  The  brandi  called  Po  Fiume  for  distinction, 
or  Grand  Po,  has  two  mouths;  the  northern,' 
named  Bocca  de  Bayona,  or  Tramentana.  Most 
of  the  branches  of  this  river  are  navigable  for 
small  vessels.  The  current  is  very  strong,  and  the 
river  did  formerly  great  damage  by  inundations ; 
to  prevent  which  strong  dikes  were  raised,  and  its 
bed  has  in  consequence  become  so  elevated  that 
the  level  of  its  waters  are  several  feet  above  the 
country.  The  other  principal  rivers  are  the  Tartaro, 
the  Adige,  which  also  rises  in  the  Tyrol  Alps,  and 
has  a  course  of  800  miles,  the  Brenta,  which  falls 
into  the  lagoons  of  Venice,  the  Piave,  and  the 
Tagliamento. 

Porto  de  Brondolo  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  Adige 
OD  an  island ;  Chiozza,  also  on  an  island,  bas  con* 
sirable  salt-works;  Pola  and  Parenza  are  small 
towns  south  of  Venice. 

Venice  is  biiilt  on  upwards  of  sixty  little  ishmda 
or  banks,  consolidated  by  piles,  and  intersected  in 
every  direction  by  canals,  which  serve  the  purposes 

p  3  of 


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214  MARITIKE  eEOtf&APHY. 

Jrfr^e.  of  streets ;  and  the  gondolas*  are  Bubstttutes  for 
veni!i7*''  hackney  coaches.  .These  canals  are  crossed  by 
upwards  of  500  bridges,^  many  of  stone,  and  in  sum^ 
mer  become  very^  oflferisive  from  their  stagnation.. 
Though  the  city  has  many  g6od  wells,  the  greater 
part  of  its  popujation  depends  for  water  on  the 
main  land,  boats  continually  crossing  the  lagoon^ 
which  is  five  miles  in  length,  for  this  purpose* 
The  population  is  estimated  at  180,000  to  200,000 
souls.  The  Church  of  St.  Mark  is  one  of  the 
most  superb  in  Europe,  being  entirely  incrusted 
with  marbles,  jasper  and  porphyry.  ■ 

Venice  was  founded  by  the  Veneti  from  the 
neighbouring  continent  in  the  fifth  century,  and 
arrived,  by  a  progressive  improvement,  to  be  the 
first  commercial  and  naval  power  in  the  world ; 
which  superiority  it  retained,  tiU  the  discovery  of 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  deprived  it  of  the  com- 
merce of  India. 

The  following  description  of  the  arsenal  of  Ve- 
nice, and  of  the  marriage  of  the  Adriatic,  given  by 
a  traveller  of  the  middle  of  the  seventeeth  century, 
may  amuse  our  readers. 

"  The  arsenal  of  Venice  passes  for  one  of  the 
finest  and  largest  of  Europe,  thoi^h  the  rooms 

are 


•  The  goudola  is  a  boat  of  considerable  length,  tht  after  part  rising  se- 
veral feet  out  of  the  water,  where,  in  the  small  ones,  a  single  man  stands 
and  ncxils  the  boat  along ;  in  the  middle  is  a  place  covered  with  Uack  velvet> 
which  resembles  a  hearse,  where  the  passengers  sit :  the  sumptuary  laws 
also  oblige  the  gondolas  of  the  natives  to  be  painted  black  only,  so  that  they 
make  a  dismal  appearance. 


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THE  Mg>rrBREi:N£AK-*-*rrALT.  ^3 

are  inudi  enq^tied,  by  r^isbn  of  this  war  wkh  ^^' 
the  Turks.  In  other  great  rooms  I  saw  hi:^e  vSi^  "^ 
heaps  of  cannon  bullets  of  all  sizes,  with  seme 
ensigns  won  over  the  Turks.  Then  mounting  up 
irxto  the  chambers  above,  I  saw  in  two  vast  rooms^ 
arms  for  fi%  thousand  men.  In  another,  arms 
for  twelve  gailies ;  in  another,  arms  for  fifty  gallies. 
Here  also  I  saw  the  suit  of.  armour  of  Scander* 
beg ;  that  of*  the  Doge  Zani ;  the  lantern  of  Don 
John  of  Austria's  ship  in  the  battle  of  Lepanto  ;- 
the  lantern  of  a  Turkish  galley ;  the  armour  of  Ben* 
jamante  Theopoli,  and  his  compKces, :  with  one 
arm  only;  some  arms  taken  from  the  Turks  ki 
the  batde  of  Lepanto ;  other  arms^  taken  from 
the  Genuesi;*  a  great  cross*bowj  shooting  vast 
arrows  of  iron,  above  five  quarters  long— -an  hw 
vention  of  great  use  before  guns  *  were  fomxl 
out ;  a  cannon  bullet  with  four  long  irons,  likte  the 
tops  of  halberts,  which  shut  up  close  into  it^wheo 
tb^  put  it  into  the  oannoo,  but  open  again  of 
tJiemselves  as  socm  as  the^  bullet  "ia  out  of  the 
Qumon's  mouth,  and  so  spreading  into  fbor  parts,' 
out  all  they  ikieet  with  strange  fury ;  a  dang^Off 
invention,  in  sea  battles,  to  spoil  cordage  and  ,tack<^ 
ling.  Here  also  they  shew  us  the  description  x)f 
the  town  and  fort  of  Clissa,  ^nd  how  it  was  taken 
by  the  Veiletiara  some  twenty  years  ago.t  Then 
deetcendii^  from  thence,  we  went  to  see  the 
places  wWe  tb^y  m^e  new  gallies  and  mend  old 

p  4'  onesk 

•  Gqy>€8e.  t  In  1684.  .   . 


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tl6  XAEITIia  OE06RAFHT* 

00^    There  I  found  a  vast  square  court  three 

$S^  ^  hundred  paces  broad  in  eveiy  square,  and  fiill  c£ 

vast  p^ithouses,  capable  of  holding  in  them  gal- 

Ues  of  fifty  paces  long  a-piece.     In  the  midst  of 

this  court  is  a  vast  square  pond  of  water,  let  in 

from  the  sea^  where  the  new  are  tried  i  and  the 

cid  ones  are  let  into  the  arsengl  to  be  mendod 

and  ri^ed  anew.    Here  I  saw  a  world  of  gallies, 

and  a  world  of  men  woiking  about  them  moat 

busily*    There  were  heretoibre  divers   of  these 

great  courts  full  of  gallies,  but  now  they  are  much 

exiiausted;   the   gallies    being  abroad   in    war. 

Bence  it  is  observed   that  this  arsenal,  befine 

these  wars,  could  arm  two  hundred  gallies,  and 

two  hundred  thousand  men.     Here  it  was  that 

tliiey  m^e  a  galley  aqd  set  her  out  at  sea  while 

Henry  the  UL  dined  here  in  the  arsenal ;  which 

made  th^  king  say  then,  that  he  would  give  three 

of  the  best  towns  in  France  (except  his  padia* 

menttowns)for  such  an  arsenal.    Indeed  the  arse* 

nalsof  Buis,  Genoa,  Zurick,  Nq>le8  jumI  Geneva 

aeemed  to  me  to  be  little  gunsmiths'  shqm  in  eom^ 

pwisoo  of  this.    They  were  then  making  here  two 

new  galleasses  (when  I  was  last   here)  of  vast 

buBi:  and  expenses*     In  fine,  I  saw  here  the  old 

bucentoro,  and  presently  after  the  new  bacen* 

torn:  this  last  is  the  galley  of  state,  of  tibeDogei 

when,  he  goeth  forth  upon  the  Ascension-day, 

accompaoiied  with  the  senate,  to  espouse  the  sea, 

as  they  call  it  here.     This  is  a  noble  galley,  aU 

gilt  without,  and  wainscotted  round  about  the 

deck^  with  gilt  seats  ^  there  runs  a  partition  of 

wood 


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THE  MEDrrS&RANIAN — ITALY.  217 

"Wood  quite  along  the  deck  of  the  galley,  with  jut^. 
seats  on  both  sides,  and  with  a  low  open  roof  of  l^^  "* 
wood  to  let  in  air,  and  yet  keep  off  the  sun ;  and 
aQ  this  is  gilt  and  painted,  and  capable  of  five  hun- 
drefl  senators,  who,  in  their  scarlet  robes,  wait 
upon  the  Doge  that  day.  The  Doge  sits  in  the 
puppe,  in  a  chair  of  state,  with  the  Pope's  Nun** 
cio  on  one  hand  of  him,  and  the  patriarch  of 
Tenice  on  the  other,  and  a  plac^  for  music  be- 
hind them.    The  slaves  are  aU  under  hatches. 

*^  I  happened  to  b6  at  Venice  thrice  at  the 
great  sea  triumph,  or  feast  of  the  Ascension* 
which  was  performed  thus :  About  our  eight  in 
the  morning,  the  senators  in  their  scarlet  robes 
meet  at  the  Doge's  palace,  aixl  there  taking  htm 
up,  they  walk  him  processionally  unto  the  shore* 
where  tlie  bucentoro  lies  waiting  them ;  the  Pope^s 
Kimcio  being  upon  his  right-hand,  and  the  Pa- 
truurch  of  Venice  on  his  left;  th^i  ascending 
ioto  the  bttcentOTO,  by  a  handsmne  bridge  thrown 
itat  to  shore,  the  Doge  takes  his  place,  and  the 
senators  sit  round  about  the  galley  as  they  can* 
to  the  number  of  two  or  three  hundred.  The 
senate  being  placed,  the  anchor  is  weighed,  and 
the  slaves,  being  warned  by  the  captsin^u  whistle 
and  the  sound  of  trumpets,  begin  to  strike  all  at 
once  with  their  oars,  and  to  make  the  bucentoro 
march  as  gray efy  upon  the  water  as  if  she  also  wait 
iQKm  doppini.  Thus  they  steer  for  two  miles  up<m 
the  laguna,  while  the  music  plays,  and  sings  epi* 
thalaauums  aH  the  way  long,  and  makes  Neptime 
jealoiis  to  hear  Hymen  called  up  in  his  dominions. 

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218  MARITIME  GEOGRAPHT. 

Ajri^.  Round  about  the  bucentoro  flock  a  world  of' 
v1^!^7  "^  piottas  and  gondolas,  riclily  covered  over  head' 
with  sumptuous  canopies  of  silk  and  rich  stuffi, 
and  rowed  by  watermen  in  rich  liveries,  as  well 
as  the  trumpeters.  Thus  foreign  .  embassadors, 
divers  noblemen  of  the  country,  and  strangers  of 
condition,  wait  upon  the  Doge*s  galley  all  the 
way  along,  both  coming  and  going.  At  last, 
the  Doge  being  arrived  at  the  appointed  place, 
throws  a  ring  into  the  sea,  without  any  other  cere^' 
mony  tlian  by  saying :  **  Desponsamus  te,  mare^ 
ut  signum  perpetui  dom7iu**^-—We  espouse  thee, 
O  sea,  in  te-stimony  of  our  perpetual  dominion  over 
thee:»— and  so  returns  to  the  church  of  St.  Nicho- 
las, in  Lio  (an  islar^l  hard  by),  where  he  assists  at 
high  mass  with  senate.  This  being,  done,  he  re- 
turns home  again  in  the  same  state,  and  invites 
those  that  accompanied  him  in  his  galley  to^nner 
in  his  palace — the  preparatives  of  which  dinner^ 
we  saw  before  the  Doge  was  got  home.  This 
ceremony  of  marrying  the  sea,  as  thpy  call  tit,  is 
ancient;  and  performed  yearly  in  raemwy  of  the 
grant  of  Pope  Alexander  ill.,  who  being  lestdred: 
by  the  Venetians  unto  his  seat  again^  granted 
them  power  over  the  Adriatic  Sea,  »&  a  man 
hath  power  over  his  wife ;  and  the  i  Venetians  to 
keep  tlus  possession,  make  every  year  this  watery> 
cavalcata.  I  con&ss  the  sight  is  stately,  and  a  poet 
would  presently  concdve  that  .Neptune  himself 
were  going  to  be  married  to  some  Nereide*" 

The  Venetians  from  the  first  building  of  iiieitr 

city  addiciied  diemsclvcs  ta  aavigatioo.  i  InldftS^ 

1  '  230 


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THE   MEDITERRANEAN — ITALY.  219 


Jffrintic, 


SSO  of  their  vessels,  some  in  dimensions  nearly 

1  •  1  •  1  •        1  Terrimry  of 

equal  to  our  sixty  gun  ships,  were  hired  to  tran-  ^  «>»^«^- 
pOTt  one  of  the  armies  of  the  cross,  composed  of 
40,000  men  and  5,000  horse.  In  141^  the  re- 
public  had  14,000  vessels,  from  ten  to  200  tons, 
besides  SOO  large  ships  and  forty-five  galleys  ;  in 
which  were  employed  86,000  seamen.  In  modern 
times  the  Venetian  ships  of  war  were  commanded 
by  nobles,  few  of  whom  were  educated  to  the  sea ; 
but  the  second  in  command,  named  capitano,  was 
usually  a  seaman,  and  navigated  the  ship.  The 
French,  when  they  evacuated  Venice,  destroyed 
eight  ships  of  the  line  on  the  stocks,  several  frigates, 
and  a  number  of  galleys,  galleasses  and  galliots. ^^^ 

Caorlo,  on  an  island  at  the  mouth  of  the  Li- 
mene,  and  Marano,  among  unhealthy  marshes  of 
the  Timao,  are  insignificant.  Grado,  a  small  forti- 
fied town,  on  the  island  of  the  same  name,  separated 
from  the  main  by  a  narrow  channel  th^t  nearly 
dries  at  low  water  :*  its  church  steeple  is  seen 
before  the  land. 

Tlie  ruins  of  Aquilea,  consisting  of  some  frag- 
ments of  walls  and  a  tower,  are  seen  in  the  main 
near  Grado. 

•  The  tide  is  more  perceptible  at  the  head  of  the  Adriatic  than  in  tmj 
other  part  of  the  Medif  crrnncan,  rising,  with  the  wind  from  the  south,  five 
miil  six  feet. 


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2S0  MARITIME  GEOGRAPHY. 


ITALIAN  ISLANDS. 

<^-  CcMTsica  (Q/mus)  is  fifty  leagues  long  and  fit 
teen  medium  breadth.  It  is  crossed  by  two  diains 
of  mountains,  running  north  and  south,  east  and 
west,  which  give  it  the  %ure  of  a  vast  pyramid^ 
whose  summit  is  Mount  Rotundo,  8,694  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  These  mountains  are  eith^ 
pure  granite  or  mixed,  calcareous  with  serpentine, 
imperfect  granite,  &c. ;  they  contain  silver,  iron, 
coj^r,  lead,  porphyry,  jasper,  statuary  marble, 
allum,  talc,  asbestos,  and  saltpetre,  and  are  co* 
vered  to  their  summits  with  forests  .of  oak,  beach, 
fir,  and  cedars*  On  the  summit  of  Mount  Bo- 
tundo  is  a  lake,  encased  in  a  basin  of  granite ; 
and  the  island  has  two  other  lakes  nearly  in  its 
centre,  from  which  issue  the  two  principsd  rivers, 
the  Golo  and  Tavignano,  both  of  which  empty 
themselves  on  the  east  coast :  the  Gdo,  after  a 
course  of  twenty  leagues,  near  the^ns  of  Ma- 
riana, and  the  Tavignano  near  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  city  of  Aleria.  The  liamone,  the  next 
considerable  river,  empties  itself  on  the  west  coast, 
into  the  gulf  of  Sagona.  A  vast  number  c^  other 
rivers  and  rivulets  find  their  way  to  the  sea,  and, 
as  well  as  the  lakes,  abound  with  fish. 

The  island  has  several  lagoons  formed  by  the 
penetration  of  the  sea  into  the  low  lands  border- 
ing the  coast  The  principal  is  that  of  Diana,  in 
the  territory  of  Aleria,  on  the  east,  and  which  is 

supposed 


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THE  MEDjntAAMEAK — ITALIAN   ISLAVOS.    Q'2l 

supposed  to  have  formed  the  port  of  the  city  of  ^!!!!!^ 
Aleria.  This  lagoon  abounds  in  fish  and  fine 
oysters.  In  it  are  two  small  islands,  with  wild 
iteer  and  hogs.  On  the  east  coast  are  several 
other  lagoons  of  the  same  nature,  all  of  which 
afford  salt  by  natural  evaporation. 

The  climate  is  in  general  salubriousi  though 
wme  particular  parts  are  reckoned  imhealthy.  The 
variations  of  the  thermometer  at  Bastift  are  he^ 
tween  the  freezing  point  and  ninety4ive.  A  very 
pmall  portion  of  the  island  is  cultivated^  though 
the  soil  is  very  fertile.  Wheat,  rye>  and  Irittley 
ore  produced  in  sufficient  quantity  to  afford  an 
object  of  export,  but  no  oats.  The  other  objects 
of  cultivatton  are  olives»  vinies^  and  flax :  bees 
also  are  a  branch  of  general  rural  economy ;  the 
honey  is  not  esteemed,  but  the  wax  is  excellent. 
All  the  fruits  of  the  Mediterranean  are  found 
here,  and  cheanut  trees  afibrd  a  considerable  ob« 
ject  of  export  The  other  exports  ate  wine,  oil, 
and  coral,  fished  in  the  gulf  of  Ajaccio. 

The  horses  of  Corsica  are  of  the  Sardinian 
breed:  the  homed  cattle  are  not  numerous,  frotu 
the  scarcity  of  pasture  and  from  oil  being  sub* 
atituted  for  butter.  Sheep  are  numerous  and 
their  flesh  excellent :  most  of  them  have  horns, 
and  some  as  many  as  six.  The  Muffoli  is  a  wild 
iheep,  covered  with  hair,  and  is  said  to  engender 
with  the  domestic  sheep.  The  other  wild  animals 
are  deer,  hogs  and  hares,  but  no  rabbits.  Plumed 
gasie  is  also  abundant  The  island  has  few  ve- 
nomous reptiles. 

Corsica 


*» 


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2£S  MARITIME  GEOORATHr. 

Corsica  is  but  thinly  peopled,  in  1802  counting' 
only  166,000  souls.  The  Corsicans  are  very  dif^ 
ferently  painted  by  travellers,  both  ancient  and 
modem:  according  to  some  they  are  turbulent 
and  ferocious  ;  according  to  others  compassionate 
and  hospitable.  It  seems,  however,  that  like 
otiher  unimproved  people,  their  virtues  and  vices^ 
proceed  from  their  moral  situation.  They  are 
without  industry,  devoid  of  probity,  superstitious 
and  revengeful  in  a  high  degree  ;  while,  on  the 
other  hand^  they  are  sober,  intrepid,  sagacious 
and  hospitable. 

The  island  forms  two  departments  of  France, 
named  aflar  the  rivers  Golo  and  Liamone. 

The  eak  coast  of  the  island  presents  a  compa- 
ratively strait  line,  while  the  west  is  deeply  indented 
by  numerous  gul&.  Cape  Corsica  {Sacntm\  the 
north  point,  is  a  large  rocky  promontory,  on 
which  are  several  villages  that  make  the  best  wine 
of  the  island.  Four  leagues  south  of  the  cape  is 
Puntade  Sagra,  with  a  good  road  on  each  side. 

Bastia,  the  chief  place  of  the  island,  contains 
11,000  inhabitants :  it  is  situated  on  the  side  of  a 
hill,  and  divided  into  the  old  and  new  towns.  Itis 
fortifications  are  a  rampart  flanked  with  bastions. 
Its  haven,  formed  by  a  mole,  is  only  fit  for  small 
vessels. 

Porto  Vecchio,  a  winding  gulf  on  the  S.E.,  is 
one  of  the  best  harbours  of  the  Mediterranean. 
The  town  and  fortress  at  its  head  are  on  a  high 
rock,  of  difficult  access.  The  works  ore  four  bat- 
teries,   but   commanded   by    some  hilla:    large 

vesseb^ 


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THE   MEDITBEftAKBAN-^ITAJLIAH' ISLANDS.    2S3 

vessels  can  but  barely  approach  withki  gun-shot.  ^'^^ 
Being  very  unhealthy  in  summer,  .it  is  in  that  sea^ 
son  abandoned  by  the  greater,  part  of  the  inhabi- 
tantSt  who  only  amount  to  2,500.  The  south 
poiob  of.thictgulf  is  Cape  $igli,  or  Chiappa ;  south 
of;; which  are  several  islaikls,  usually  cdled  the 
Cape  Islands,  which  are  foul,  all  round*  Between 
Poxto  Vecchia  and  Cape  Bianca,  the  south  point 
o£  the  ialand,  the  coast  has  many  little  coves,  and 
somerl  islands,  the  m<Bt  conspicuous  of  which  is 
Toro  (the  Bidl).    :       .  •, 

. .  JSomfucro,  on  a  gulf  west  of  Cape  Bianca,  (the  so^hcgt* 
9imeut'J^QrtmStfracu$anus)y  contains  3,000  inlia- 
t)ita|it9«Mamt  is  aiitiiated  on  an  almost  inaccessible 
prQmantoQr,  joined  to  tbi6  ma^Ky  a  narrow  neck* 
Its  port  is  a  mile  l<mg,  deep  and  well  sheltered. 
Ti>  Booilacio»  on  the  south,  coast,  succeed  the 
Gulf.of  Ventflegte  J  PortpFi^uri,  north  of  which 
u  a  group  of  islands  andicocjis  called  the  Monks ;  west  com. 
Porto .  Tessaqp,  Gaulf  (^  Vjdijaco,  or  of  Campo 
MorQ>  bajs  aeveral  *giK)d  {torts.  South  of  it  are 
the  i«tes,&»eloza,  V  :     ..:>  - 

AjA9CiQp,^i  tbe.h^ad  fy^^Ae  gulf  g£  the  same 
naqie,  a^d  on  a  p<^t  of  lavd,  hm^  6,000  inhabi- 
tants. It  is  the  best  built  town  of  the  island,  and 
hadforojierly  a  wall  on  the  land  side,  but  de- 
stroyed. At  the  north  extremity  of  the  gulf  are, 
the  Sangonara  islands,  eight  ia  ,nun4:)er,  which 
consid^ahly  shelter  the  gulf  in  that  direction. 

North  q£  Ajacdo  are  Port  Proven9al  and  th$ 
Gulf  of  Sagona,  which  last  foims  a  good  port  at 
Us  he^ds  wb^re,  two  miles  from  the  shore  and  on 

the 


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2ti  MARITUU  SI06R4PHT% 

the  banks  <£  a  little  nver^  are  the  ruiBs  df  lim 
aadent  Sagamu  Further  north  are  the  gulfe  o£ 
Porto  and  Giralatta. 

Calti  (Litus  Cemi)^  on  the  south  shore  of  the 
gulf  oi  the  same  name,  is  buUt  on  an  elevatioD, 
nearly  surrounded  bythe  sea:  it  has  a  strmig  waU, 
flanked  by  bastions,  but  is  commanded  by  the  hiO^ 
of  MozeUbu    Its  port  only  recmves  small  craft 

Algaiola,  north  of  Calvi^  a  small  walled  town 
and  citadeL  Rossa»  a  small  town,  with  a  ha;v«i 
for  merchant  vessels,  from  whence  is  exported  the 
greatest  part  of  the  produce  of  the  N.W.  side  of 
the  island.  St.  Fiorenzo,  or  St.  Florent,  is  a  torwn 
o(  1,500  inhabitants,  among  unhealthy  marriies^ 
at  the  head  <^a  de^  guli^  diree  leaguers  ki|%  and 
two  wide. 

Corsica,  after  being  suceessivdy  occupied  by  the 
Carthaginians,  Romans,  Vandals,  Goths,  Lom^ 
bards,  and  Saracenic  fUl  under  the  dominion  of 
the  Franks  in  the  eighth  century,  and  in  the 
eleventh  the  Pope,  whose  predecessoni  had  de-> 
cfaired  themselves  sovereigns  of  the  isbikl,  sold  if 
to  the  Pisans,  and  aftenwwtls  gave  it  to  the  kinga 
of  Arragon,  ftom  whom  it  came  under  die  yoke 
of  Genoa. 

Between  1790  and  I786  the  Corsicans  made  an 
attempt  at  independence,  and  elected  as  their 
king  Theodore  de  Neuhofl^  a  German  advafiturer 
^  of  noble  birth :  they  were,  however,  restored  to 
the  dominion  ci  Genoa,  by  the  interference  of 
France.  In  1755  they  again  declared  their  inde* 
pendence  as  a  republic,  at  the  head  of  which  th^ 

placed 


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XHS  MEDITERfiAKBAN— ITALIAK  ISLANDS.    S^ 

placed  the  celebrated  Paoli.  The  Genoese  again  ^2if^ 
called  in  the  aid  of  the  French,  and  shortly 
lifter  ceded  the  island  to  them;  and  a  decisive 
victory  over  the  Corsicans  left  the  island  und^f 
Ae  quiet  mibjection  of  France.  In  1792  Paoli, 
who  had  sought  refuge  in  England,  returned  to 
Corsica,  where  the  principles  of  the  French  revo- 
lution were  about  to  create  a  civil  war.  Paoli,  at 
the  head  of  the  aristocrats,  solicited  the  aid  of 
tiie  English  to  drive  out  the  French ;  and,  after 
some  fighting,  the  island  was  taken  possession  of 
by  our  troops.  Tlie  crown  was  now  ofiered  to 
Bngland  by  a  consuUa  of  the  nation,  and  accepted, 
a  viceroy  being  appoint^  from  Great  Britain. 
The  title  of  king  x^f  Corsica^  however,  did  not 
long  swell  those  of  ^e  monarch  of  Great  Britaiji : 
tbe  viceroy  disagreed  with  Paoli,  and  neglected  to 
conciliate  the  Corsicans,  who,  dazzled  by  the 
victories  of  their  countrynian,  Buonaparte,  agaiti 
oSered  themsdves  to  France;  and  the  British' 
government,  not  deeming  it  for  the  national  inte- 
jfest  to  keep  the  island  by  force,  ordered  it  to  be 
evacuated. 


•  Elba  (/fca),  the  place  of  exile  of  Buonaparte, 
is  sepiu^ted  ftom  the  peninsula  of  Piombino  :by 
tiie  channel  which  has  the  latter  name,  four  leagues 
broad,  in  which  are  the  little  islands  Palmajola 
and  Pabnenora  (great  and  little  Palma),  on  each 
<ji  which  is  a  light4iouse.  The  channel  of  Corsi*^ 
4^  separates  Elba  from  Coridca.  Elba  was  fot- 
JiiMetly  attached  to  the  prindimUty  of  Piorabinop 

'^  VOL*  n.  Q    .  '  tfcv 


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f^  tbe  kings  of  Sai:4inia  and  Najp^es  havii^ti^Q  ^^vM 
9f  ganrisooing  the  chief  towns.,  lal^OJtthat  ^f 
the  former  was  ceded  to  the  infaqit  qf  Sj/^JO^^  dul^ 
of  Parma,  aqd  that  of  Naples  to.  Fjntnp^  pf^ 
which  empire  it  was  ailerwi^*4s  united,^  ap^r.  ^^^i^ 
the  islands  Palmajola  and  J^alr^enor^  Q^IVJi^  4A4 
Monte  ChristOy  formed  a  d^partmen^ 

Elba  i#  of  a  triangi^ar  sha^  seven^leagttesl^KBgi 
Bgid  four  hroafl ;  its  surface  is  div^^^  by  de-, 
vated  hills  and  extensiye*  plains*  It  is  ext^emcJiy} 
rich  in  minerajfi^  its  irpn  mines  afiiMrding  si|ni4^l^ 
^qual  to  that  of  Sweden  >  besides  whicl^ilr  aboi^di^ 
in  marbles^,  slatet  asbe^a^i  ^iwil;^  s^lp^^rK  y^ 
tribl,  £;>S8U.  S4k>  a^  ]oa4?^<H^  whi^;!^  i$.  s%^l  ti^ 
nffspt,^  CQmpa§9«s  pf  y^ss^^  n^^r  thc^  isl^ifid.  Ip 
al?w  possess^  gpl^^  ^ilyi^  c»PBfir,^t?ft,  anii,l«»(ti 
1^.  hdfi  s^vex^  rivulets,^  whi/ch  ^^^  ^4f  ^'^  ^ 
tjie  se^  of  which  ^  jr^:^  named  fw  p?^. 
^miqenqee/jBia^  thari^er,  ru^  throng^  theirqiv 
tf^xy^^  aijtd  is.  rcjmarfaible  fp?  W/WW;  njpst  ;n»tfir, 
at.  the  suj^wi^  splsti^qe.. 

The.climfi.tj?  qf  Ejifa  is.mpr^  temperate  f^fi^  th/^ 
Opposite  coast  of  Tuscany,  from  the  inftufflipq.cj^ 
the  sea  breezes,  and  the  island  produces  vegeta-^ 
,  bl^  which  do  not  succeed  oif,  the  cpn^gig^t. 
^  l!be  chief,  productions  are  winq^  q^  ih§i  s^iiift 
qimJity  ^,  thi^  of  Sg^n,  9liy^.  %gP?ft»ft  qj«»f» 
tjjg^  d^  %]B,  Indiap  cp^f  P^as,  be^is^^a  I}^ 
ipjbpatr  Thp  most  copinjpn  treep  aR^i^tJtft  qofil^ 
evergreen  oak^  oraflge  ai^  len^Qn,^  l|i|d(  ^  jd^ 
ftuit  trees,  pf  Fraiw^  ^9^P  ti^e  .^]^e. 

ThQ.gflgul^fl  of  thS;isUn^  isi  1^0(¥1  n:  iV^ 


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THE  MSIMramftAmRAfr-^-frAliAir  ISLANDS.     SSf 

tw&  tOfMM  ami'  nine  TiUng^.    Being  fimnerly     £;;;* 
greatty  infested  by  the  BaHbary  pirates,  it  had 
little  extidmdl  commerce,  exportifig  only  some 
iUDfir  salty  Visits,  and  tunny  fish. 

Ifc/ttx^  Femjo^  on  the  n^drth  coast,  is  the  chief 
pitiee,  aiid  is  ataated'  oii  a  seihicircular  pfeirinsular 
diodntain/  Ifte  convex  side  of  Alrhich^  feeing  the 
tfeu^,  forriis  an  excellent  port  with  three  to  four 
fathoms ;  the  road  is  also  secure.  The  streets^are 
tf  Miid  df  terraced  cut  in  the  rock,  the  popular 
tion  ^,000^  and  it  is  strongly  fortified,  and  pro- 
tected by  a  citadel.  Near  the  town,  otl  thfe  sum^ 
mit  of  a  rock,  is  tfie  towa-  of  Voltbraia,  so  strongl;^ 
irit^ifed  that  it  cah»  only  be  redtkced  by  famine; 

PoAto  Lonoone,  the  second  ttoWn,  is  at  the  east 
ehd^ofthejsbnd,  aiid  halite  namie  from  its  Idil^ 
narrow  shiq^  Tie  town  is  divided  into^  upp^ 
uid^bwer;  tiiefbMier,  ^Mch  is  akind  of  a'cibE^ 
del,  occupies  the  summit  of  a  fail],  and  is'e^mdly 
strong  by  nature  and  art  The  entrance  of  thei 
port  is  protected  by  a  batteiy  on  a  tongue  of  land. 

On  the  N.W.  side  of  the  island  is  the  Gulf  of 
Ftochk),  sepatMed  fi»lfi  B^rto  Feailago'  by  the  pe- 
TAaae&k^a.  eikddses^ie  litter;  The  (AStfpohm 
the^ifiilluid  ar&€ape^tella^^.R ;  St  RotHm  S.W;; 
St;  Ad^  RW;  ;•  Nitt^  north :  c#  th&^  tetter  is 
the  isteiid' til«uillu(^« 

The^  isikiid>Capf«ja,  tf^  be^-* 

btlgii%'t6(<Oent)b;  iies6»tfitmi<^Coil3iQa,  ailA 
nlM^ai^By  between  it  andi  the  coast  of  Tvm 
eHQrtt  Iv  is  fivi^  leagues*  ih  <^ircuit^  very :  moun^^ 
tttiMUi^aQdifuiMniildedl  by  roelm  -  Itim  l,5dd 

n^  inha- 


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M8  MAEITIMfi  GEOGRAPinr.  ^ 

inliabitantSy  mosUy  .  seameiii .  and  a  Uttle  tawft^ 
with  a  strong  citadel  on  a  hill.  On  the  east  side  is 
a  sandy  pove  sheltered  J&om  S.  W.  to  north. 
.  Pianosa  (Planasid)^  three  leagues  S. W.  of  Porto 
Longone,  in  Elba,  is  nearly  level  with  the  water, 
M  its  name  denotes :  it  is  one  league  long  and 
half  a  league  broad,  is  uninhabited^  but  pastures 
^ocks  of  goats.  Obi  its  east  side  is  an  islet,  the  re- 
sort of  seals  and  gulls. 

Monte  Christo  (Oglasa),  S.E.  of  Pianosa,  is  a  bar* 
ren  and  desert  rock.  North  of  it  are  the  Formicas 
(Ants),  a  dangerous  ledge  of  rocks  above  and  ua^ 
der  water,  one  mile  and  a  half  in  circuit 

The  islands  of  GigUo  (IgiUum)  and  Giannuti 
(Diamtm)  are  off  Mount  Argentero.  Groigona 
{Urg(fs)f  belongiiig  to  Tuscany,  is  seven  leagues 
S«Wt  0^  Leghorn,  ,tl|ree  leagues  in  circuit,  moun* 
j^ppjos  itfid  uninhabited.  The  anchovies  tak^i^- 
aearit  are  celebrated. 


i^fOMi.  Sahbinia.  is  fifty-five  league^  long,  no^  and 
fN>uth|  and^  twenty-five,  broad*  having  upwards  of 
SOO  leases  of  qoast  .  On  the^  nprth  it  is  moun^ 
tainous^  but  }ias  extensive  plains,,.  loarshes^  and 
lakes  towards  the  south*  It  has  produc^ve  ircm 
and  lead  tmofss,-  wme  poor  silver  ones,,  cc^iper  ^ 
pyrites,  precious  stones,  porphyry,  ^larbles,  ali^^ 
baster,  and  some  thermal  sfmngs*  The  two.  prin* 
dpal  riveca  are  the  Oostano  and  FuQiendoaa. 
The  fonner>  alao  called  the  Tinsi^  empties  itself 

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THS  MBDITBRRANBAN— ITALIAN  ISLANDS.    2^ 

into  the  Gulf  of  Oristano  on  the  west  coast,  and    s^^- 
the  latter  on  the  S.E.  coast.     There  is  said  to  be 
an  inland  navigd[>le  Communication  between  Cag- 
liari  and  Oristano,  principally  by  the  river  Mariel, 
i^hich  empties  itself  into  the  Gulf  of  Cagliari. 

The  soil  in  the  vallies  is  fertile,  producing  wheat 
and  barley,  'and  all  the  fruit  trees  of  Europe,  be- 
sides oranges,  lemons,  jujubes,  grapes,  palms, 
caroubs,  lentisk  (cistus  ladanurn)^  td>acco,  &c. 
The  horse  is  here  met  with  in  a  wild  state :  it  \i 
«mall,  well  made,  and  very  active.  The  asses  are 
ifitrong;  the  mules  few ;  the  hogs  excellent,  being 
fed  on  chesnuts.  The  wild  quadrupeds  are  smaH 
deer,  abundance  of  wild  hogs :  the  mufibli,  or  wild 
sheep,  inhabits  the  most  solitary  parts  of  the 
mountains.  The  island  of  Aseinara  has  numbers 
of  land  turtle,  and  sea  turtle  are  taken  on  the  coasts 
as  well  as  tunny  fish,  but  both  anchovies  and  sar- 
dines are  scarce. 

The  small  bustard  and  wild-ducks  abound.  The 
climate  is  in  general  healthy,  except  in  the  vici- 
nity of  the  morasses,  which  cause  putrid  fevers. 
The  population  is  about  half  a  million,  and  the 
revenues  do'  not  exceed  X80,000.  Surrounded 
by  people  highly  civilized,  the  Sardes  are  still  in  a 
state  of  surprising  barbarity.  In  the  country  the 
men  are  cloathed  in  goat-skins,  one  before  and 
another  behind,  without  breeches,  shoes,  or  stock- 
ings, and  a  woollen  or  skin  cap  on  the  head.  TTie 
women  have  no  other  habiliment  than  a  long  wool- 
len gown  and  a  woollen  cap.  The  peasants  al- 
ways go  armed  to  defend  themselves  from  one 

.Q  8  another, 


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^m^h  for  t^m  ^^^\  mWw»  »»d  ms«^%  0^ 

ti[^^t  tcaveljing  iff  the  interior  is  ^9;:t9'9mely  mat^ 
wiltl^out  9a  lesGprt ;  inf^  it  i«  av^n  dwgiwmis  for 
ships  tp  m^  ti^if  pmp)$  M  ^CMra  for  waiter  im*- 
less  they  ve  ^ell  am^.  J^a  ^rt»  th«  Sair^et 
are  the  Ma^tj/i  of^p  j^I^ti^nwieftPf  Tb^  ^e, 
hoy^ever,  ^trppgly .  (t«t^e4  tQ  th^  Idog  anil 
couotfy-  Thpbaybawinofthepwsaptiytfrtroo^ 
co^tra^ted  by  the  pomp  ^^d  outward  9hew  of  tibe 
citi^ns  of  the  uapit^L  ^  of  whom,,  nuybanigs  not 
e:iipq)te4>  strut  a^ut;  with  bag-wig,  award,  and 
chap^rn^  brfls  i  apd  evgn  ii)  this  coatwne  it  is  com-' 
QiQp  to  be  solicited  for  chari|;y. 

The  coasts  are  indented  by  nymermis  gulfs  {^ 
lifted  with  islets  and  ropfoft  The  pripcipal  h§ad- 
labels  are.  Cape  Cominq,  the  east  point  md  north 
lifpil;oftfjq(jrHlfof  Orofiei.  Cape  Carbon^iSt  th^ 
iS.|l  point  afwJ  eas|;  limit  of  tbe  Gulf  of  Cagliari: 
off  it  is  the  rocky  island  Cortellaz2»  (JFiwris),  the 
wpst  poipt  of  which  i«  fpuU  but  there  is  a  good 
ro^  OQ  its  N*W :  on  it  is  a  castle,  mi  N«£«  of  it 
aire  two  ^po^ll  islands,  with  a  watch-tower  on  eaeh, 
the  out^mpst  is  naffied  Sarpentafia.  Cape  Pola» 
a^e  w«t  point  pf  the  Gulf  of  Cagliari,  is  a  low 
rpcl^y  point;  with  a  watph*tower,  and  off  it  two 
Toclfy  i§l?ts.  Cape  TavoUrfl,  or  Teulado*  ia  the 
si.if.  pftipt  of  the  is)an4f  wd  east  poi©t  of  ^ 
Qi4f  of  PslWft-  Cape  de  NapoM,  o?  U  Fresca, 
tl)^  south  ppi^  of  the  Qv^lf  of  Qristaa<v  on  ib^ 
xq^]fi  of  ti^  w#»t  cH>ftst*  Cap<^  d«Ua  Cacia  (iyyia- 
p^)  W  tl^j  1^.  V.  Cape  Falcon  {C^^tat¥m)  is 
the  N.W.  poifit  qf  ^f)  island, 

The 


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THE  MEDti^ftAlitAW'2— ITALIAN  ISLANDS.    231 

The  thief  gulfs  are  Terra-Nova  on  the  N.E.,  the 
Ihorth  JJt^int  of  which  is  Cape  Flgueri ;  Porto  Ca-  "^  ''""'' 
vallo  within  the  islands  Tavolaro,  and  others.  The 
tjrulf  6f  Orosei,  between  Cape  Comino  and  Monte 
"Satito ;  the  Bay  of  Ollastro,  south  of  Cape  Monte 
ISantb,  and  of  which  Ckpe  Bellevii6  is  thle  south 
p(knt. 

TheGulfofC^liari,  on  theS.E.,  attheheai  "^'th  o^ 
of  which  is  Caoliari  (CaUais)j  the  capital  of  th^ 
island,  containing  25,000  inhabitAntS.  Its  portii 
1fol*tned  by  two  moles,  and  receives  vessels  of  twelve 
ftet.  The  Gulf  of  Rosso  has  Cap^  Tavolaro  for 
its  in^st  point ;  near  its  head  is  the  Isle  Rossa,  to- 
lerably ktge,  fl4t,  and  v^  rocfcy,  within  which 
Is  good  anchbtage  before  a  river. 

The  Gulf  of  Mma,  at  the  S-W.  extremity  of  ^^^cowc 
tiie  island,  is  formed  by  the  main  latid  on  th6  e^t^ 
dttd  by  the  island  Antiocha,  also  called  St.  Jago 
and  i^alma  de  Sal  {Ptitmbarid)  en  the  west,  which 
is  three  leagues  long  atid  ode  broad.  In  the  6n- 
trande  of  the  gulf  af-e  two  great  rocks,  named  the 
!6ufl  atid  Cow.  A  league  N.W.^of  AfltiOcha,  and 
three  leagued  from  the  main,  is  the  island  San  Ple- 
tro  {Accejpitnm)y  rocky,  barren,  and  surrounded  by 
islets,  with  fort  St.  Ciarlos  on  its  east  side. 

Tfae  Gulf  of  Oristario  on  the  middle  of  tKe  we^ 
doast.  f^ofto  Coiita  on  the  N.W.  is  a  goodharbbttjf 
^bose  entrance  is  protected  by  two  tower^  ;  thii 
6n  the  right  on  an  elevation  seventy  feet  high, 
ant!  so  peiperidicular  that  the  ascent  is  by  a  rOp'fi 
ladder.     There  is  good  anchoragte  throughout  tliCf    , 

44  pbrt, 


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ftSa  MARITUffE  QEOORAFHT* 

port,  exc^t  near  the  town,  where  are  stone  Todkt 
level  with  the  sea.  At  the  head  of  the  port  is  a 
spring  of  brackish  water. 

The  north  coast  of  the  island  curves  greatly  in- 
ward, forming  a  large  gulf  between  the  island  Aai- 
nara  on  the  N.W*  and  Cape  Scardo,  the  north 
point  of  Sardinia.  The  island  Asinara  (JSercu&s)  is 
separated  from  C^pe  Falcon  by  a  channel  ¥dth 
but  two  fathoms,  and  in  it  is  the  little  island  Plana. 
Asinara  is  very  irregular,  but  three  leagues  in  its 
greatest  length.  On  its  east  side,  is  Pprto  Tra- 
buco,  well  sheltered,  and  with  good  anchorage  in 
six  and  eight  fathoms. 

Sassari,  the  second  town  of  the  island,  is  on  the 
river  Fiuminargia,  four  leagues  from  the  sea.  Its 
port,  named  Torres,  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
secured  by  two  moles. 

Off  the  N.£.  end  of  Sardinia  ai*e  the  isles  Ma^ 
delaine  (HemuBo)^  between  which  and  the  main  is 
an  excellent  road  for  the  largest  ships.  On  the 
largest  island  is  a  village  and  several  forts,  and 
here  beef,  wine,  ^nd  vegetables  may  be  procured 
for  a  fleet,  and  water  from  a  considerable  river  cm 
the  main. 

Sardinia,  as  weU  as  Corsica,  passed  under  the 
dominion  of  successive  masters,  until  it  came  under 
that  of  th^  Saracens,  in  the  seventh  century,  who 
were  driven  from  it  by  tlie  Pisans  and  Grenoese, 
ind  the  Genoese  were  dispossessed  of  it  by  the 
King  of  Arragon  in  ,1330.  It  remained  with 
Spain  until  I7O8,  when  it  was  taken  by  the  Eng- 
lish for  the  Emperor  of  Germany,   whp  in  1720 

ceded 


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THE  MKDlTBRmAllEAN— ITAUAK  ISLANDS,   233 

ceded  it,  vritii  the  title  of  Kingdooi,  to  the  House 
6f  Savoy>  ia  lieu  of  Sicily.' 


Sicily,  named  by  the  ancients  Trmacia  and      ^• 


Tkrmaeria,  from  its  triangular  shape,  is  the  most 
considerable,  as  well  as  the  most  valuable  of  the 
islands  of  the  Mediterranean.  Both  the  ancients 
and  modems  have  supposed,  that  it  was  separated 
from  the  Continent  by  an  earthquake,  the  Strait  of 
Messina,  between  it  and  Calabria,  being  only  a 
mile  in  breadth,  from  Cape  Faro,  in  Sicily,  to 
Cape  Volpe,  in  Calabria,  but  widens  as  it  pro- 
ceeds, and  at  Messina,  four  leagues  from  Cape 
Faro,  is  four  miles.  On  this  latter  Cape,  the 
ancient  Pelarum,  is  a  light-house,  or  Pharos, 
whence  its  modem  name,  and  whenoe  also  the 
Strait  is  called  by  seamen  the  Faro  of  Messina. 

Sicily  is  thfoughout  intersected  by  ridges  of 
hfUs,  but  none  of  wy  considerable  height,  except 
Mount  Etna,  one  of  the  most  celebrated  volcanoes 
of  Europe,  whose  elevation  is  10,963  feet,  and 
)Aomt  £ryx,  on  the  N.W.,  which,  like  Etna,  is 
isolated,  and  was  anciently  celebrated  for  a  temple 
of  Venus  Erydiuk  The  cUmate  approaches  to  that 
of  the  tropics,  the  only  appearance  of  winter 
being  towards  the  summit  o£  Etna,  which  retains 
the  9now  thraogbput  the  year,  and  suppli^  a 
valuable  otgect  of  commerce.  The  natural  fer- 
tility^ ^f  the  island,  which  formerly  acquired  it  the 
name  pf  the  Granary  of  Rome,  remains  undi- 
miniahed»  but  the  sloth  of  the  present  inhabitants 
acveely  dn^w9  firoia  the  soil  mor^  than  sufficient 

for 


COMtt. 


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BMtf.  for  dieir  own  nounshtoeM.  In  llie  ffttneitd  kifig- 
dom  it  possesses  gold,  silver,  lead,  copp»,  Sttrti. 
mony,  and  sulphur. 

Tbe  prindpal  promontorieB,  mMt  df  ^hich,  as 
well  as  its  rivers,  are  c^brated  bytkfe  undent 
poets,  are  C^pe  Faro  (already  iiotfced),  tbe  N.K 
point  Cape  Passaro  (fto^num),  the  South  ^atrfftt, 
on  an  island,  half  a  le^^^  from  tbe  fiWiin,  had  h 
mile  in  circuit,  surrounded  by  rocks :  on  it  is  a 
fortified  tower  and  light-house.    On  the  south 
coast  from  the  east  are  Cape  Scalambri^  Cape  St 
Marco,  and  Cape  Sorello.    Cape  Bbbo  {BtfUbeum\ 
at  the  west  end,  is  a  low  promontory,  nort^  of 
\diich  is  the  island  San  Pantdeo  (Mdiffo).  Oh  the 
north  coast  are  Cape  St.  Vito>  the  west  point  of 
the  Gulf  of  CasteUa-Mare,  Cape  Orlando,  Cap6 
Biancho,  and  others. 
Kfm.  The  north  coast  being  bounded  by  mountains 

{Nebrodes  Mens)  has  but  few  streams  that  ^ 
serve  the  name  of  rivers*  Those  of  the  east  and 
.  south  are  more  considerable.  Amongst  the  fbtmet 
are  tiie  Alcantara  (OnobaJa),  south  of  Taotmkia^ 
the  Giaretta  (Symathus),  south  of  Catania^  the 
largest  oi  the  island,  and  the  AteUsM)  north  of 
Cape  Passaro.  On  the  south  coast  the  riv^s  aM 
the  Salso  {Hmera\  which  empties  itself  at  AU^ 
cata«   the   Platani    (Camms),   toiA  the    Beliid 

Messina  (Mesaam\  from  its  andent  splMiddtir^ 
as  well  as  from  being  formeriy  tbe  residence  (^  tiM 
viceroy  for  six  mondw  of  ^  ye«^,  dfsputes  tiM 
honour  of  being  die  capttii^  itkmtvMeineutbe 

north 


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THE  MEniCTMAXEAK-^HrttlJAy  ISLANDS.   889 

uofth  extFenitj  of  ibe  eart  coast  The  ravages  f^ 
^  the  plague  in  1743^  and  odier  causes,  have  ^^^^''^ 
greatly  jreduced  its  popukticnif  whidi  at  present 
does  not  exceed  SSfiOO,  though  it  has  an  extent 
to  ccHitain  five  tunes  that  number.  Its  port  is 
entirely  natural  and  one  of  the  best  in  £unipe» 
l)eis^  foraged  by  a  semicircular  peninsula  on  the 
$*£.,  five  miles  in  circuit,  witii  an  entrance  three* 
ifoarters  of  a  mile  wide,  and  capaUe  of  holding 
1,000  sail  in  thirty-five  to  fi>rty  fathoms  depth* 
The  largest  vessels  can  ^Iso  make  fast  to  the  quay, 
which  linM  the  peninsula  for  a  mile  in  lei^tlu 
1W  faarfoour  is  protected  by  the  Castib  of  Ht. 
Sidvadw,  on  die  isthmus  of  the  peninsula,  by 
four  forts  on  its  points,  and  by  a  battery  on  the 
west  shore.  With  these  advantages,  and  that  o^ 
being  a  £pee  port,  its  trade  is  trifling. 

Taormina  (Tauramet^Hm\  a  celebrated  city  of 
antiquity^  is  how  a  poor  village,  on  a  hill  two 
miles  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  at  the  foot  of 
which  is  the  village  and  road  of  Giardini.  At 
Taoraiina  are  seen  the  most  entire  remains  of  a 
Roman  dieatre  in  Italy,  with  other  anttqcdties. 

Jaci  d'Aquila  is  a  little  town  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Fiume*Freddo^  cold  river,  the  ancient  Ads, 
celebrated  by  the  fable  of  Ads  and  Galatea,  and 
vfhoae  waters,  though  said  to  be  colder  than  ice, 
never  freeze.  They  were  praised  by  the  ancients 
for  their  salubrity,  but  at  present  are  thou^t  to  be 
poisonous  £rom  contaimng  vitriol. 

Catania,  the  third  city  of  Sicily,  contains 
40,000  inhabitants.      It  has  several  times  been 

destroyed         ^ 


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C86  MAUmV  OBOOEAPHV* 

s^eiit.  destroyed  by  earthquakes  and  eruptions  of  Etna, 
Ka«f  ciiiitt.  whose  foot  is  but  five  miles  distant.  Since  the 
earthquake  in  I69i3>  which  totally  overtume  d  it, 
it  has  been  rebuilt  on  a  regular  plan,  with  strai^t 
and  wide  streets,  and  the  houses  only  6ne  story. 
It  has  a  good  poit,  but  little  or  no  trade. 

Augusta,  a  fortified  town  of  9,000  inhabitants, 
and  a  good  port  is  on  the  south  side  of  an  island, 
formerly  a  peninsula,  but  separated  £rora  the 
main  by  the  earthquake  of  1693. 

Syracuse,  called  by  the  natives  SaragozOf  one 
of  the  most  celebrated  cities  of  the  Roman  Em- 
pire, whose  walls  had  180  stades  of  circuit,  is  now' 
a  poor  town  of  14,000  inhabitants.  The  land  on 
which  it  stands  was  ancientiy  a  peninsula,  but  the 
isthmus  has  been  cut  through  for  its  defence. 
Besides  which  it  has  a  very  strong  citadeL  Its 
two  ancient  ports  still  exist,  the  southern  named 
Porto  Maggiore  (^Partus  Magnus)^  has  six  miles 
at  its  greatest  breadth,  and  is  entered  by  a  strait 
one-third  of  a  mile  wide.  In  this  port,  twenty 
yards  from  the  shore,  a  spring  of  fresh  water 
bubbles  up  amidst  the  salt  The  northern  port» 
Porto  Ficolo  {^Partus  Minor  and  Marmoreus\ 
held  the  naval  force  of  ancient  Sjrracuse.  The 
fountain  of  Arethusa,  celebrated  by  poets  and 
historians,  and  to  which  divine  honours  were 
paid,*  is  now  a  brackish  stream,  which  issues 
suddenly  from  the  earth  by  two  openings,  and 
serves  to  wash  the  dirty  rags  of  the  modem  Syra- 

cusians^ 

•  Virgn,  Fdog.  t. 


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THE   MEDITbRRAKBAK-^rrAUAK  ISLAKM.   287 

cusians.     The  also  faiqous  ear  o^  Bisonysius  still     ^ 
exists,  and  is  an  artificial  cavern  cut  in  the  rockt 
which  affords  an  echo  of  the  slightest  whisper. 

Nota  Nova  (Nectum),  is  the  last  town  on  the 
east  coast  towards  the  south. 

The  south  coast  of  Sicily  is  almost  entirely  •o«hCo*t. 
unguarded,  and  hence  the  Barbary  corsairs  make 
frequent  descents  on  it  and  carry  off  die  peq[^ 
into  slavery- 
West  of  Cape  Passaro,  in  succession,  ar# 
Scicili,  amongst  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Co* 
Semena^  and  Santa  Croce  (jCaucano)  near  Cape 
Scalambri.  Camerina  N.W.  of  Cape  Scalambri. 
Terra  Nova  at  the  mouth  of  the  Marogleo.  Aii- 
cata,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Salso,  contains  1S,000 
inhabitants. 

GiROENTi  {Agrigentum)  is  situated  on  the 
/  summit  of  a  high  mountain,  four  miles  from  the 
sea,  Amidst  the  ruins  of  ancient  temples.  It  has 
S0,000  inhabitants,  and  from  its  port  all  the  pro- 
duce of  this  side  of  the  island,  particularly  corn,  is 
exported. 

Sciacca  (Themue  Setinun&£)  is  a  smalls  town 
and  castle  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain.  Farther 
west  is  Castel  Vetrano  ;  between  which  and  Ma^ 
zara  are  the  ruins  of  three  temples,  which  an^ 
Bounce  the  site  of  the  ancient  SeUnus*  Mazara  i^ 
an  insignificant  town,  to.  which  succeeds  Marsali^ 
(Xy$te»m),  at  the  west  end  of  the  i^aud,  ^hich 
liad  formerly  a  criebrated  port,  destroyed  by 
Charles  V.,  to  prevent  the  Bai}>ary  corsairs  fron 
<afcinfe  refuge  in  it. 

Trapani 


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V.W.  End. 


£38   ^  '  MAMTIVS  CflSOG«Ain3T« 

suxg.  Trapani  (Drepcnum),  at  the  N.  W.  point  c€  tbe 
ifltand,  and  at  the  foot  of  Mount  firyx,  is  a  \m1 
built  town,  of  16^000  inhabitants;  it  hM^  a  good 
pert  fbrmed  b^  the  point  of  hmd  on  which  is  the 
town,  by  three  small  islands,  on  one  ef  which  is  a 
castle^  and  by  several  skoals :  with  strong  l^W. 
winds  the  water  in  t^  port  rises  six  feet  above  its 
ordinary  level.  In  the  vidnity  arv  considerable 
salt-works,  and  its  coral  and  tunny  fisheries  are 
productive,  the  latter  producing  30,000  Neapoli- 
tan ducats  a  year. 
vmh  coMt.  The  Onlf  oi  Castel-a-Mare  is  a  deep  indentatioii^ 
between  Capes  St.  Vito  and  dell  'Ursa. 

Wajjbbmq  (Panormi£s)f  the  capital  of  tiie  idiEOid, 
is  situated  on  a  gulf  between  Mount  Pdlegrina 
(Cretu)  andCapeSaffiirano:  a  circle  of  hiUsapproach 
close  to  the  town,  which  is  greatly  overpeopled 
for  its  size,  having  1^,000  inhalntants.  The 
two  principal  streets  are  handsome,  and  it  is  die 
only  city  of  Italy  that  is  ligfatbd  at  the  poUtc 
expense.  Its  port,  which  is  formed  by  a  mdte^ 
can  receive  the  largest  vessels. 

Termini  {Thtrmai)^  at  the  mouth  of  a.  anall 
river,  partly  on  a  hill  and  partly  on  a  plain,  haa 
some  celebrated  mineral  springs,  and^  a  strony 
eaatle.  Its  inhabitants  are  employed  in /die- an« 
chovy  fishery.  Cefalu  {Cephake£s\  near  the 
mriddle  of  the  north  coast ;  Patti  and  Mibew 
(^Mylai\  are  the  odier  places  of  any^  note;  th^ 
latter  is  on  the  east  side  of  tibe  istbmua  of  aiUtde 
peninsula,  which  haa  a  good  road  outoaoh  aktey 


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THE  MlDlTFW.^»lfl«     WA14A»  ISLANDS.      ItO^ 

Off  t^  ^ve^  ^^  of  Sicfly  are  thcee  iskyids^ 
QJSg^s},,  BW964  F^a§^a»a,  Levaiizo»  and  Mai^ 
la^tmQ*  Mve^l^nM(»  th^  weateiieii».  is  a  single  stee^ 
iqpitQt^Mik  iSpur  ki^uen.  in  cireiut.  Levanzo^  the 
north  eastf$m>,  is  ^sor  »  siogle  hitU  wil^  a  castle ;. 
bat^veen  it  and  Tr-opajii  syre  several  rocky  iajiets^ 
c^^tl^  Ant^  Fa^stgnitna  1ms  a  caatl^  and  c^ 
its  eaA({Si4^  ve  tb^  i^^  Bittdoni.  ajid  Cardiiiio.. 
Tk§m.  isla»d^  ane  plaqes^  <Mf  ba^iahiuaxit  for  atate 
prisAHiil^ 

IH^^r.wUftod  of  Usticar  fifbeen  leagues  north  <^ 
QljiP'^aUfb.  is  &uf  leagues  in  circuit,  and  well 

Tlh^  l4¥(4^  I&laiicls»  tweVm.  in  munber^  are  uv^hk$. 
situate^  ^  the  SJX  extremity  of  th^  Tuscan  s^ 
oflPit^njsth.QQaatt  of  Sicily.    They  received  from 
tbe.aiMi^iite  th^  names,  of  JEolkm.  and  rti/bzmi2a», 
ii^jMI4J^    It;  b^i^  supposed  thatiEolus  kept  the 
WJ^  iiOiiifonad  in  thesir  caverns^  and  that  they 
alw  QQAtmoed  the  foi^s  of  Vuhcan.    They  are  ' 
algiQsltftntM^^  composedi  of  volcan^ed  snbstanoes, 
w4ia^m).«U^[)huiv  uitce^  ahun^  cinabar,  pumice 

^J^pmii^I^jm^a^f  the  krgest,  most  fbrtile,.  and 
best  inhabited,  is  five  leagues  in  circuit;  more. 
a^fyfjif^oi  itSi  ^i^^acei  is.  cultivateid^.  tbe  rosiain- 
^^:hiV^  ^^T  covered  with:  woodi  or  entsidgr/ 
hs/psm^  Vf\^  yegpteWe  piadiKtitios  airei  rye, 
i^Wfi)^  'QOPm^  ^  ^  cooaiitaptbn,  some  cotton 
<m(ipH«e»^  bvliit9  <duaf xarefaea  atiisiitsyines^  which 

give 


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240  liARrttMB  0£0i9RA»ttt« 

w^*  give  wines  of  various  qualities^  particularly  a  kiod 
"'^  **^-  of  malmsey.  It  also  exports  a  considaraUe  quaa* 
tiity  of  raisins.  The  prickly  pear  is  indigenous  in 
tiiis  island.  It  has  many  hot  springs.  On  the 
south  is  a  little  town  at  tixe  foot  of  a  hill^  rising 
abruptly  from  the  sea ;  the  houses,  except  those 
of  the  bishop  and  governor,  are  mean.  It  is 
defended  by  a  castle  on  a  naked  rock  of  lava, 
rising  perpendicularly  from  the  water.  Close  to 
its  west  side  is  a  rock,  called  Pietro  del  Bagno. 

Salini  (^Didtme)  is  nearly  as  large  a^  Lipari, 
and  consists  of  two  mountains  united  at  die  base. 
It  ^  has  its  name  from  the  salt,  which  is  formed  hj 
the  sun  in  a  lagoon,  communii:^ting^  wdth  the  sea. 
On  the  north  side  is  a  fine  spring  of  water,  gush- 
ing from  a  rock  dose  to  the  shore.  Off  its  south 
e^d  are  three  rocks,  called  the  Three  Stones. 

Vulcano  (Hieri  and  Therasia)  is  four  leagues  in 
circuit,  and  has  the  shape  of  a  cone  with  the  top 
broken  off.  It  continually  throws  out  volumes  of 
smoke.  It  is  uninhabited,  and  only  occasionidly 
visited  by  the  other  islanders,  to  cut  brush-wood 
for  iuel,  which  grows  in  the  crater  of  an  <M  v<d- 
cano.  VulcaneUo,  anciently  a  distinct  island,  has 
been  joined  to  Vulcano  by  a  narrow  neck,  formed 
by  an  eruption.  On  each  side  of  the  neck  is  a 
good  road. 

Strombdi  {Skrongyle)*  is  an  immense  voleaoos 
whose  continual  eruptions  of  flame  have  gained 
it  the  name  of  the  Light-house  of  the  Medtter* 
ranean.  It  b  thr^  l^Bigues  in  circnil,  alid  vtff 
barreUt  having  only  a  few  poor  vineyarda  on  the 

north 


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tut  URDTTMRRAXmAX^-^nAUAH  ISLANDS.     S41 

north  »de*  Thefe  is  no  anchorage  round  it>  and  odk. 
the  small  vesBels  that  belong  to  or  visit  it  are  hauled  ^^"  *•*«* 
On  the  beach.  The  number  of  inhabitants  is  about 
1^000,  who  live  in  scattered  huts  on  the  shore, 
luod  are  principally  employed  fishing  for  congers^ 
which  afe  abundant'  round  the  island.  They 
chiefly  depend'  on  the  rains  for  fresh  water,  the 
island  having  but  two  ismall  springs.  A  mile  from 
the  north  end  is  a  great  rock,  called  the  Stone  of 
Stromboli,  one-fourth  of  a  mile  in  circuit,  and 
sixty  feet  high. 

.  Fanaria  (H^em)  is  nearly  three  leagues  in 
circuit,  moderately  elevated,  and  ccnnposed  of 
volcMdsed  granite^  generally  barren,  but -producing 
some  olives.  North  of  it  arp  several  lesser  vol- 
canic inlands  and  rocks,  vks.  the  Formiculas,  or 
Ants,  a  group  of  rocks  nearly  level  with  the 
water,  Dattolo,  I.isca  Nera  {Black  Lisca\  Lisca 
Bianca  (White  Lisca),  and  Bottero,  Tilanavi,  and 
Ftoarelli. 

Baasilu^zo  is  only  twp  Bndles  in  circuit,  elevate^ 
but  a  few  feet  above  the  sea,  and  inhabited  by 
half  a  dozen  persons,  who  cultivate  a  small  spot 
near  its  centre,  It  abounds  with  rabbits,  and  on 
the  S.E.  is  a  little  cove  for  boats. 
.  FeHcudi,  or  Filicuri  {Plienicodes)^  is  composed 
of  a  group  of  hills,  and  has  about  60Q  inhabitants  iq 
isolated  dwellings.  It  has  a  natural  ($tvem,  called 
the  Ofotto  of  the  Sea^x,  in  which  is  a  kind  of 
apartment  200  feet  long,  1^  broad,  and  65  high^ 
On  the  south  and  N.E.  sides  of  the  island; are 
coves  for  small  vessels,  according  to  the  winds. 

▼OL.  II.  R  Alicuda, 


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^S4A  MAiATMB,  ttMMuimt. 

^'  .  Alicudi,  er  A^cm  (lErkaikis),  the  m&^timi 
'^'^^  ittost  i^md,  has  400  miMtiitmy^  v^  wAdt  4m 
the  easrt  find  S.£^.  sides»  d9[  (fee  test  <^  the  ^lanA 
being  composed  of  voicairic  barren  pr^c^ices. 
Tim  island,  as  well  as  EeUcudi,  prodcfces  8M»^ 
wine,  barley,  and  rye,  together  ^eistmiated  at  7,000 
Neapolitan  crowns  a  year.  Sotb  idands  alr(^  des^ 
titute  of  springs,  and  t^  ^^faabitasts  cofisequeot)- 
ly  depend,  on  the  rain-waiter  pi^ederved  ift  their 
cisterns,  which,  in  dry  seasotis^  is  sometimes  ek- 
hausted.  Each  island  has  four  or  sis  barks  beloog^i- 
ing  to  it ;  those  of  Aticu^  lore  liauled  on  ^hore, 
there  being  no  aneh<nrage  poand  it. 

fMteiariiu  The  isUnds  tyf  Pantelaria  QCo^rd)  and  linosa 
also  belong  to  ^cily^  &e  €rst  is  sixteen  leagues 
east  by  soiith  of  Gi^  Son,  4b  Africa,  imisl  leagms 
in  K^ircuTt,  -elevated  in  the  middle,  and  terminMitig 
in  a  low  f>oim  at  ^each  extFeHAity.  It  has  but  one 
running  i^ringof  &e^  water ;  but  on  the  samoftit 
of  the  highest  hill,  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the 
island,  is  a  comidctable  lake,  occupying  apparently 
the  crater  of  an  eKthnft  volcano.  The  island  has 
4,000  inhabltsuits,  and  produces  cotton,  wine,  and 
fruits. 

iiiuMu  Linosa  (^Algusa\  ne^ly  tmdway  between  Malta 

and  tiie  ooa^  tS  Africa,  is  four  leagues  m  M»ctutt 
and  forms  in  two  coiiiccd  hifis. 

Maiuu  Malta,  the  most  ccAdbrated  island  cf  l^e  Medi^ 

terranean  in  modem  times,  was  known  to  tiie 
ancients  by  the  names  of  ipevia^  Ogygi^  cmd 
Mtlita^  from  the  lattw  of  which  its  modern  name 


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THE  MEDIJliimiM(MA<»  iOMiAXf  tf SLANDft*     M0 

6>defived»  ith  tm^e  leagues  distant  (&foiB(Cape 
Stai^aro,  in  ^kS^y^  tiie  |iiaB0ge  Jbetiween  iieing 
^Ifjd  jIbeiClianftdl  ^f  MaltA :  it  ip  «ke\r^  lei^uei 
ioBg  a:mdiS)ur  briwd.  73^  bMie  qf  ihe  .i9la»d  b  e 
iiriiite  i&ee!8feQfi%  (OlHrnnjakig  /Hi  ^lufie^i^cjtifam,  Ibsett 
j^ltsj»«dirM^ia3'of<miMnpw^  is^eiie^ 

w^J^Mel  iwt  wth  SQwe  i^ffi^.  The  iqU i%  in  few 
^9!Ot^  iae^e^bw^  Hi)ahes.d(eep»  ai^dhfts be^n.ai 
great  fpwtt  rlBBrcwght  frpm  ;SijHly.  It4p,  ihpwovQr, 
eKceef^u^  4fuii«W,  producing  Qom  for  3ix 
months'  cQQfBiifiipt^  of  Hfi  fi^pql^oA,  whiciaw 
fyc  ilto  <fflrteiit,  /is  gipe(*»rtthfwirth»t  of lony  oth!Bff,p«i0; 
jtf  tbe  world,  -b^g,  /in  I7985  j90,Q00  souls.  The 
ialand  i^  ^Pbe>  over,  IjiA  «ome  good  springs ;  a^d 
water  lis  to  ^  ^hf^  ))0^  digging  ^wells,  but  raSa  water 
l<reseryed  iQtcisteFna  is  mo6t:generally  used.  Be- 
sides com  .and  mioe^  ^the  islsmd  produces  a  conm- 
deratilexiiiaiHity  of  CQtton  and  the  finest  oranges 
HI  the  Mediterranearj,  tc^ether  with  a  variety  rf 
^her^fibUits,  roots,  and  he^s  in  great  profusion. 
iHie  jTodcs  waahed  by  the  ^ea  aibrd  abundance  of 
adht  fpcw  properrfor  dyii)g,'(jfua^  venticoms  tincto^ 
rkis).  The^i^suad  has  tko  venomous  reptiles,  whiak 
ihe  iibabitants  ittcribe  to  the  mimeulous  intervojOb- 
4ian  of  St.  (Paul,  who,  wfeen  he  visited  it,  delivered 
tt  dhir  ever  Aom  aU  atfiioals  of  thi$  l;ind,  with 
which  it  was  before  infested.  The  west  and  N.  W, 
coasts  are  bound  by  perpendicular  precipices  form- 
ing a  natural  fortification.  The  climate  is  healthy, 
though  excessively  hot. 

The  i^and*wa»  given  by-theiBo^Mror  Charles  V. 
R  2  tQ 


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.  344  MARITTME  GEOGRAPHY. 

^ft^-  *p  the  knights  of  St  John  of  Jerasalcm,  when 
driven  out  of  Rhodes  by  the  Turks  in  1530.  The 
knights  were  required  to  be  of  noble  birth  by 
both  parents  for  four  generations.  They  were 
under  vows  of  celibacy  and  perpetual  war  with  the 
infidels.  Their  grand  master  was  elected  for  lif^ 
and  possessed  the  attributes  of  a  sovereign  prince. 
They  were  divided  into  eight  tongues  or  languages^ 
of  which  three  were  French,  two  Spanish,  one 
Italian,  one  German,  and  originally  one  English  ; 
but,  on  the  Reformation,  succeeded  by  the  Anglo 
Bavarian.  The  number  of  knights  was  unlimited : 
the  badge  of  the  order,  a  white  cross  of  eight 
points  worn  on  the  left  side.  The  gradual  relax* 
ation  of  the  discipline  of  the  order  paved  the  way 
for  its  downfal  j  luxury  succeeded  to*  the  noble 
simplicity  of  warriors,  and  the  effeminacy  of  cities 
to  the  hardihood  of  camps.  The  war  with  the 
Turks  had  long  been  reduced  to  a  fantom,  and 
the  summer  cruises  of  their  gallies  had  become 
parties  of  pleasure.*  The  defence  of  this  vast 
fortress  was  entrusted  to  foreign  mercenaries,  and 
the  energy  of  union,  on  which  the  renown  o£  the 
prder  had  been  founded,  being  extinguished,  the 
French  found  it  easy  to  corrupt  the  chiefs  of  the 
order,  and  in  1798  made  an  almost  unresisting 

conquest^ 


*  The  Maltere  gallies  more  resembled  Cleopatra's  barge  than  fitting  ves- 
selfl,  being  profusely  ornamented  with  carved  work  and  gilding;  the  saik 
striped  blue  and  wilte^  with  a  Ivye  red  cross  ^  eacb*  Soine  of  tbeo 
carried  600  seh. 


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THE  BfEDITBREANBAN'— iTALUM   ISLANDS.      245 

^squert  of  the  island.  After  a  two  years  block- 
ode  it  capitulated  to  the  English.  By  the  treaty 
of  Afniens  it  was  stipulated,  that  the  island  should 
be  restored  to  the  Knights  under  the  guarantee  of 
Russia :  the  non-compliance  with  this  stipulation 
by  the  English,  was  the  ostensible  cause  of  France 
commencing  hostilities  in  1 803. 

The  Maltese  are  partly  of  Arabic  origin,  and 
speak  that  language  mixed  with  Italian.  The 
men  are  described  as  temperate,  industrious  and 
brave,  but  also  vindictive  and  jealous  of  their 
women,  who  by  a  natural  re-action  seek  and  find 
opportunities  to  be  unfaithful. 

The  ancient  capital  of  the  island,  named  pro- 
perly CiTTA  NoTABiLE,  city  of  uobles,  but  mor^ 
commonly  Citt^  Vecchia,  or  old  city,  is  situat- 
ed on  the  highest  point  and  neaily  in  the  centre 
€if  tiie  island.  The  modern  capital  is  La  Valetta, 
so  named  from  the  grand  master  its  founder.  It 
is  near  the  middle  of  the  N.E.  side  of  the  island^ 
built  on  several  rocky  points  projecting  into  a  vast 
^f,  which  forms  five  of  the  finest  harbours  in 
the  world:  the  entrance,  which  is  not  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  broad,  is  defended  by  iaimense  fortifi- 
cations, as  is  the  town,  so  that  the  whole  island 
may  be  considered  as  an  impregnable  fortress,  to 
be  reduced  only  by  famine. 

The  other  principal  landing  places  of  the  island 
are  Melcha  Bay ;  St.  Paul's  Bay,  sheltered  by  the 
group  of  Solomon's  island,  with  a  depth  of  two 
to  six  fathoms  j  old  and  new  Salt  Ports  j  Port  St. 

R  3  .Mau« 


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10OtO. 


add  Pbrt  St.  Thomas  on  th\s  N.B.  Marza  Seirod^O) 
4n  thc^  SLEL  is^  a-bairj/s  dividiBd'inta  two  biimdtos  bf 
d  projecting  point.  In  the  eaet  bmBcb  tbe  dtep^ 
ift  eight  ftHJioms^  a«rd  in  thewe^  twettty^wo^fiw 
dioms.' 

The  island  of  Gozo  (Galas^  or  6uadU^\  ^  fi^3e9» 
]f7»W.  of  Malta,  is  about  four  leagues*  long  and 
twa  broad)  and  ba»  S^OOO  inbabit^itev  Although 
iC  at  present  vA  very  Air  from  answering  the  des^^ 
cription  of  Calypso^ls  island,  it  contends  witfr 
tfther&for  ^at  honour.  This  ifilaody  as  well  aar 
Malta,  has  considerable  manu&etures  of  coVtoiu 
*  Itl  the  chamnel  betweefn  MaHa  and  Go:^  are 
tkte  MtlJe  islanda  Cumino  (Heppestia)  and  Cvum^ 
notta ;  the  passage  between  them  and  Mi^ta  is^ 
Oalled  the  Strait  of  Friuli. 

Tlie  islamis  of  Lampedesa  (Lipadusa)  and 
liampion  belong  to  Malta,  between  which  iskani 
and  the  coast  of  AfHca*  they  are  situated.  The  flrst 
is  four  leagues  Ibng,  eaet  and  wests,  and  about  two* 
brbad.  It  i&  level,  well  watered,  and  fertile.  IW 
dorth  c^otet  is  steep  and  without  anchorage,  but 
ftom  ^^  sout^  coast  a  bank  runs  off  a  contsidera- 
ble  way.  On  this  side  is  also  a  spacious  bay,- 
!4leltered  fit>m  all  winds  but  between  S.  and  S.  W., 
the  depth  sixteen  to  eighteen  iktboms,  and  the* 
bottom  ^5ne  sand;  At  i\»  headf  i^  a  cr eefc,  capable 
^  tittle  expense  of  being  made  iA  excellent  har^ 
bour.  Its  entrance  is  ninety  fathoms^  broad,  and 
it  runs  in  half  a  mile :  the  right  hand  shore  19 
p^iy,   and  a  rocky  bilP  which  commands  the 

creek, 


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THB  M£DIT]V|i^i^lW^^!H^ITAI.Uy  |8tAKDS.      247 

crted^  iU9i4  OH  wlueH  ib  a  church,  affords  a  good  ^^^"^ 
Pf4litipn  fe«  a  ^.'  The  depth  io  the  entrance  is 
fl^fteQn fiithoms,  decreasiaggraduaUy  to  the  head, 
Wto?ei9  one  fathom  close  to  the  $hore.  On  ther 
tr#M  side  of  the  OFee^,  about  half  way  up,  a  pro- 
jeetvQf  {K^  forma  a^  little  cove,  in  wbjx:h  small 
\i«M^  mBi^  ancbos  j^^i^iectly  sheltered  from  the 
&&W^iiWMl>  whieh  Uowb  right  up  the  creek  and 
makes  a  considerable  swell.  On  the  same  side 
heloM^  tiiiB  poiBt  is  {^nother  cove  entjbrely  land 
lqe]^>  but  wiUi  only  thriee  to  five  feet  water,  the 
hoMtam  ac^  sipdi  This  cpve  might  easily  be  deep* 
etted  and  ooiiawlejr9t>ly  ei^iged*  the  land  sur- 
tounding  i^  beiia^  low,  amd  composed  of  sand  and 
day.  The  )^  »  occ^ionally  visited  by  the 
Mdlteoe  vessels^  as^  we)l  as  the  Barbary  cruisers. 
Ship  frem  Turkey  having  the  plague  on  board 
aji»  run  for  tbis  iriapd^  and  remain  until  the  ma<- 
lady  haft  C6as04  ^e0  they  return  to  the  port  of 
Turkejp  IJiey  aail^ed  ffom^  to  receive  a  £resh  clear* 
anoe  wA  UlloS  health ;;  by  this'  means  they  save 
both  ahqi^aod  caiigo,  which  would  be  burnt  were 
they  to  go  into  any  European  port*  The  island  is 
unkihalMted,  but  baa  the  ruins  of  a  castle  and 
Hwrn ;  M  is  said  to  have  been  abandoned  on  ac» 
counts  of  the  spectres  that  haunted  it ! ! 

A  league  from  the  W.S.W.  point  of  the  island 
is  a  lock  with  a  safe  channel  between  them,  and 
four  leagues  from  the  same  point  is  the  island  of 
I^ampion,  a  high  round  uninhabited  rock. 


TijE  territory  of  I^Uia  is  bounded  on  the  west    i^- 
R  4  by 


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248  MAltixiME   GEOGRAPHY. 

htria.  by  tjie  river  Izonzo,  and  on  the  south  by  the  gulf 
of  Carnero,  occupying  the  greater  part  of  the 
peninsula  between  this  latter  gulf  .and  that  of 
Trieste  on*  the  north.  The  coasts  are  in  general 
low,  but  inland  are  high  mountains.  The  chief 
places  are  Montefalcone  (^Veruca),  a  toj^rn  and 
castle  in  the  Venetian  Frioul,  some  distance  from 
Ihe  sea,  Duina  and  St.  Croce,  on  the  ncMlh  shcnre 
of  the  gulf  of  Trieste. 

Trieste  is  a  modem  town  at  the  foot  oi  Mount 
Tergeshm ;  it  has  18,000  inhabitants,  and  is  well 
built.  It  has  an  outer  road  with  ten  to  twelve 
fathoms,  but  exposed  to  the  W.  and  S.W.,  and  is 
subject  to  a  violent  wind  named  the  bora,  which 
sometimes  drives  ships  from  their  anchors.*  The 
haven  is  formed  by  a  solid  mole,  on  which  are 
twelve  large  guns ;  there  is  also  a  basin  for  vessels 
under  quarantine,  which,  as  well  as  the  lazaret, 
magazines,  &c.  is  enclosed  by  a  wall  two  miles  in 
circuit.  The  chief  manufactures  of  Trieste  are 
verdigris,  soap,  glass,  and  cordage.  Under  the 
dominion  of  Austria,  Trieste  had  become  the 
commercial  rival  of  Venice. 

Capo  d*Istria,  on  the  south  shore  of  the  gulf 
three  leagues  from  Trieste,  is  built  on  an  island 
communicating  with  the  main  by  a  bridge }  it  has 
5,000  inhabitants,  and  exports  some  salt  and  wiae. 

Pirano 

•  The  bora  is  a  N.E.  wind,  which  blows  down  the  chasms  in  the  moun- 
tains ;  it  seldom  lasts  more  than  twenty-four  hours,  but  its  violence  is  sd 
great  that  vessels,  however  near  tbey  may  be  to  port,  are  obliged  to  bear 
up  and  run  before  it ;  in  this  case  they  usu^dly  first  try  to  get  sheltar  at 
Pirano,  which  if  they  miss  they  are  sometimes  obliged  to  nu  for  Mouttt  St 
Angelo. 


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THE^  M£DITE1tRANBAN--«iaTRIA*  949. 

iKrano  is  a  small  town,  west  <rf  Capo  d'lstria^ 
with  a  rampart  mounting  seven  guns  towards  the 
sea :  ships  anchor  half  a  mile  from  it  in  fiteen 
fiithoms. 

'  On  the  west  coast  of  Istria  are  Umago,  a  little 
qpen  town,  exporting  some  soap  ;  Citta  Nuovo,  a 
miall  fortified  town  at  the  mouth  of  a  river,  with 
some  coasting  trade ;  Parenzo  (Farentiuni)  with  a 
lampart  and.  sf^en^  guns  towards  the  sea,  which 
vessdd  of  moderate  size  only  can  approach  within 
gaU'shot,  exports  some  com,  cattle,  dried  fish, 
and  soap.  Or^era,  on  a  hill,  with  a  good  har- 
bour. Rovignb  (Arupinum)  on  an  elevation,  with 
a  wall  and  ten  guns  towards  the  sea,  exports  its 
wine,  corn,  oil,  dried  fish,  and  soap  to  Venice  and 
Trieste ;  its  port  is  sheltered  by  some  islands  from 
all  winds  faiit  betweefn  west  and  S.W.  Pola,  on  4 
narrow  neck  of  land  near  the  sontb  point  of  Istria, 
named  //  Promontorio,  the  promontory,  has  seve- 
ral Roman  anti(]uitie$.  Off  the  promontory  ate 
a  number  of  islets  and  rocks. 

The  Gulf  of  Carn6ro  (Flanaticus)^  between  Istria 
and  Croatia,  is  surrounded  by  high  mountains.  Car- 
tel Vecchio  and  Finpna  ate  on  the  west  shore  in  Is-  cnmtim, 
tiia.  FiuME,  in  Croatia,  on  the  Fiumara,  also  called 
St  Vito,  is  at  the  head  of  the  gulf:  it  has  6,000  in- 
habitants, is  fortified,  has  a  castle,  and  exports  chief- 
ly the  salted  provisions  of  Hungary.  The  other  port 
towtisin  Croatia  are  Bukaii,  on  a  rocky  hill,  Porto 
R^  on  the  same  inlet.  Opposite  Bukari,  is  a  good 
haibour  with  a  narrow  entrance  well  defended  and 
Ciq^Ktble  of  receiving  thir|^  ^L    Novi  and  Segnj 

succeed  j 


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200^  UAXPmm  ouMiUMHr^ 

<^<^  siweaedi;  tiw  latter  i9.qn a  hiUi.  Kark)p«go»  ^wi^- 
in  tfi#  ifiUuid  of  FagOi  has  a  hfluire»  eoostruqUdr 
b^tfae  AustnaagoR^ecmne&t  ia  ITi&a. 

The  east  coast  of  the  Adriatic  from  Istria  tOi 
Aagusais' lined  by  islands^  some  oi  considerable 
me,  and  odiers  mere  rocks,  smd  the»  whojb  afh^ 
pMffng  to  hao^e  been  torn  frpm  tibe  cooiinenfi  ioiF. 
some  CQ^i^mkion  of  nokiire.     Tliiose  beloaigftiigt  toi" 

by  a  brifi^ :  tiieir  soil  is  rtoay,  htit  iindf  aboiUH^ 
ifi  cattle,  vines,  and  hooey.  On  Ckerso  i^  a  Uket 
that  ovefftows^ onty €V6ry  fifth yeav,  togetheri^ndr^ 
several  ^tigukp  caverns,  ""and  prodigious  quantttim 
of  fosstl  bones  of  bovses,  oxen,  iEokl  sheep.  Veoaia^ 
esght  leagues  long  and  tiiree  broa^  id  ^  taotfc 
fertile  and  populous  of  the  Croatian  idand^  pro^ 
(feidng  abundance  ^  wine  and  sift,  and  an  esteem- 
ed breed  of  smaft  horses.  It  has  butone  towiLOOi 
a  his,  and  its  pert  ib  dis&nded  by  a  castle* 

The  oliher  isbndb  ai^e  Albe  or  Arbe  and  toffOk 
close  to  the  main ;  Gahota ;  Unie,  thirteen  leagues 
in  circmt,  is  barren,  exports  spit,  and  has  a  casde  ; 
JPoresina,  Sansigo,  and  Candole,  west  of  Qseroi. 
The  great  and  little  Lussin ;  the  gpeat  haa  a  towtf 
of  5,000  inhabitants,  though  rocky :  they  are  fintn 
tile,  produciBg  vdne,  dives,  and  pasture,  and  their 
inhabitants  we  industrtow  fishermen* 
^immh*,  The  coast  ef  D^matia  extends  ih>m  Trebaal 
south  of  Kark^i^o^  to  beyond  Budua,  whevtf 
commences  Albania.  It  is  mountainous  and  gene- 
ric barren,  the  sides^  and  summits  of  the  hills 
l^gcoTtred  with  h\i%     The  duef  porta  419 

.    Novi- 


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THE  uammmBsamAfhm^mmMkriJL. 

aiStMBg  mA  f^giikr:  forttwti  mouating  eigtttj  to 
ninety  gem :  it  is^  M  ^  Uttiir  isidnd  joined  to  tbcr 
maki  hf  a  bridge  ;^  it8>  port  is  sheltered  byr  somei 
id€^di^  tMe"  Aou^,  bot  is^  e«fM)6ed  1k>  the  weet:^ 
if  is  eeletoated  for  it»  inpFe6(|iutie«  ScaordoBa^  om 
iJke  CRarcat  SeftenicOi  a  cemidembJe  place,  with 
af-fi^  and  castle  ;  Hagoznizza;  TiiAU  (Tragus 
rkmty,  a  town  oif  the  mam,  wilfc  a  snbui^  ott  ihe^ 
ide  of  Bua* 

iSpabatbo,  formerly  the  principal  town  of  Veae- 
tiaft  Dalmatian  is  considerable,  bat  wretcbecHy 
hnait^  mtb  a  port  entered  by  seyeral  narrow  cbaa- 
iiefr  between  islands,  but  with  depth  for  the  largest 
ship*.  Thetiolentptrffsofwindoffthebi^  shores 
however  render  caiition  necessary  with  rei^ct  tg^ 
tbe  saffs^  Here  are  the  ruins  ctf  apakceof  Dlo»f 
afknmtf  and  it  is  the  emporium  of  the  external' 
dOflmierce  of  Bosnia  mid  Dahnatia,  the  chief  ex^ 
poTte  of  trhfcbare  com,  wine,  and  cotton> 

^infesa  n  a  smaH  fortified  town  at  the  moutk 
of  tike  CiMftigha^  ^iir  league$  east  of  iSpal&tro  i 
Ufacarsftat  The  river  Narenta  empties  itself  iBto 
a  large  gulf  formed  by  the  peninjsulfi  of  Sabioncdlo^ 
at  its  montl^  is  fort  Opus, 

The  isfends  appertaining  to  DWmatia  are  iSicardow^ 
Mblada,  TOCkfy  but  affording  oil,  wine,  and  ho- 
jflcy,  J,gOO^  J^lwtbitants ;  on  the  south  side  is  the 
aecuWportof Saccaron.  Grossa,  fifty  miles  in 
circmt,  is  hilly,  yolcantc, .  and  barren*,  Incoro^ 
tiMa^  Ztrri,  Dervenich,  Mestar,  and  many  others' 
liy  dff'Sebcntaaj  Solta-CHimtai  aad  B^azza^  ai»e 
-  considerable. 


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S5SL'  MARITIMfi  6X0GRAPHY. 

jhim^tu.  considemble.  Lesina  (PAoro^)  is  nxty  miles  l(uig 
K  and  W^  and  nine  broad.  It  is  fruitful  and  well 
ctdtivatod.  On  the  west  end  are  thre^  ports,  viz. 
Lesina,  <^ap£^le  of  holding  three  ships,  Porto  Pa- 
noKmo,  in  which  vessels  make  fast  to  the  shore, 
and  Porto  Grego,  between  these  two.  The  town 
is  4efi^ded  by  a  fort  on  the  summit  of  ^  difficult 
hill.  .  Off  the  west  point  of  the  island.  Cape 
Pelegrinp,  are  the  little  islands  Forca,  Spalmadora 
and  St.  Clementi. 

.  Lid3A  (issa)  is  eight  leagues  in  circuit,  very 
rocky,  with  a  high  hill  in  the  centre,  but  produc- 
ing so^iie  olives  and  wine.  The  port  of  St.  Greorge 
in  the  N.E.  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  Mediterra- 
nean, capable  of  receiving  ten  sail  of  the  line« 
The  entrance  is  about  half  a  mile  broad,  and  has 
in  it  a  small  island,  with  a  passage  on  each  side 
not  more  than  a  cable's  length  mde,  but  with 
depth  for  the  largest  ships  within  a  stone's  throw 
of  either  shore.  On  the  lefl  of  the  village  is  a 
creeks  where  vessels  of  moderate  size  may  ciureen. 
The  village  is  composed  of  a  single  row  of  mise- 
raUe  hovels,  whose  inhabitants  degend.  entirely 
on  the  continent  for  provisions. 

On  the  N.W.  end  of  the  island  is  the  village  (^ 
Camisa,  neatly  built  and  on  a  good  bay,  sheltered 
from  all  winds  but  N.  W.,  which  during  the  winter 
months  occasionally  blows  with  great  violence  and 
renders  the  bay  unsafe;  It  is  the  only  place  on 
the  island  where,  a  ship  can  water  conveniently. 
Off  ibe  N.W.  end  of  lissa  is  tke  little  island 
JQariap,  and  ^est  of  it  the  island  Pommo^  a  pyra^ 

midical 


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THE  •  M£DITBftRAKEAN««-JRA6USA.  258 

midical  rock  100  feet  high.  Mdisello,  Pelego&a, 
Itnd  Cozza^  in  the  same  quarter,  are  Uttle  detach^ 
ed  islands.  ^ 

CoRzoLA  (Corcyra  Nigra)  is  separated  from  the 
peninsula  6f  Sabioncella  by  a  narrow  channel, 
with  twenty-three  fathoms  depth  on  the  north, 
but  towards  the  south  is  dmost  entirely  blocked 
up  by  rocks,  leaving  oidy  a  narrow  channel  close 
to  the  main.  The  island  is  eight  leagues  long, 
covered  with  fir  trees,  and  only  inhabited  by  a 
few  fishermen  in  a  village  at  the  east  end.  The 
little  island  Torcola  is  between  Corzda  and  Les- 
sina,  nearest  to  the  latten 

The  territory  of  the  repuWic  of  Ragusa  com-  'S^^  ^ 
prises  a  tract  of  the  main  land,  from  the  river 
Clitua  to  the  gulf  of  Cattaro,  the  peninsula  of  Sa^ 
bioncello,  and  Five  Islands. 

The  government  of  Ragusa  was  nearly  similar 
to  that  of  Venice,  being  composed  of  a  council 
of  nobles  and  a  chief  magistrate,  styled  rector, 
elected  annually.  The  ind^ndence  of  the  re- 
public was  guaranteed  1^  the  Grand  Signor  and 
the  Emperor  of  Germany.  The  military  force 
consisted  of  100  soldiers,  who  guarded  the  gates 
of  Ri^usa  and  the  palace  of  the  rector.  The  po- 
pulation of  the  territory  was  d6,000.  The  flag  of 
At  republic  was  white,  with  a  St.  Biaize,  the  pa* 
iron  saiilt,  and  the  word  Jibertas,  surroonded  1^ 
a  garland  of  oak.  The  ports  are,  Sabioncello,  at 
the  north  end  of  the  peninsula,  Castel  di  Stagno, 
on  the  isthmus.  Ragusa  {Rausmm)^  at  the  fi^it  y 
and  <m  the  nSe  of  ahilL;.  it/hfi3  15,000  inhabi- 
tants. 


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^HVM.  tMts,  jMod  m  sumiunded  by  a  waU  Sfti^bed  voA 
ransd  towers.  Esimpt  the  tpsimnpai  streets,  wbidi 
extend  north  and  south  the  length  of  tte  town, 
ihe  others  are  fiarrow.  Its  »pioper  harbour  jcan 
only  receive  smaU  cmfl;  but^half  a  league  N.W. 
cf  the  town  is  t^e.port  of  JSantaCmz,  an. extra- 
sive  basin,  perfectly  shdtered.  The  ruins  ;of  £pi- 
daurus,  called  Old  Ri^usa,  are  two  leagues  south 
.of  the  city. 

The  islands  belonging  to  the  repid^lic  of  Ra^ 
sa,  are,  1.  Catera ;  2.  Lagosta,  west  of  Corzola^ 
•four  leagues  long  and  one  broad ;  3.  Melada,  siK 
leagues  long,  is  extremely  rooky,  but  ptoduoes 
-cdives,  vines,  oranges,  and  lemons,  and  has  a 
liver  navigable  for  two  leagu)^,  with  adepdi  <^ 
4hirty-£ve  to  dforty  fathoms.  On  the  north  side  is 
the  port  of  Cala-mata,  an  .oval  basin,  well  ^lelter- 
ed.  Here  was  formerly  b  considerable  town,  but 
iOliarles  V.  having  persuaded  the  inhabitants  to 
join  his  fleet  widi  'dieir  boats  in  an  iattaok  on  the 
Algerines,  they  .wg^&all  loAin  a-^tonn,  and  a  few 
miserable  hovels,  bniH  ,amoBg  ite  ruins,  contain 
.  'the  present  inhabitants.  3Bk  island  hao,  besides, 
mx  viUages*anditoelebrated  abbey  ^f  Benedictines. 
The  two  other  idands  .bdoif  g^  io  Raguea  aie 
between  Melada  jmi  the  main,  and  are  naami 
Mecza  and  Pouscza :  tbefuQit  is  wdl  cultivated,  vittl 
*lias  a^good  road  on  theweet;  d&eaecoud,  diough 
XDcky,  is  fertile. 

^Dhe  gulf  df  Cattuo  (Rf^mnious)  xuns  in  sk 
leagues,  forming  many  sinuosities  between  .moun- 
tainous   shore%   wfaigh  akenatdy  a|i)proaching 

each 


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eodi  odser,  anA  s^gamiecadiiig^  farm  thi«ie  imcoeir 
sive  :bt«tnB»  cMpaUe  of  leoeivixig  the  mmit  muna* 
imi0  ifleeta.  Ute  principal  places  on  the  gulf  we^ 
OasfedNuovo,  .on  tbeaiordi,  asmaU  tori'i&edf  but 
deoa^d  to(wiu  <^axtaro,  at  the  head)  k  situated 
a(t  iiit  foot  ^  a  hiU,  which  is  etromgly  foi::tifiedf  the 
werks  descending  in  a  e^-«ag  to  t)^  ramparts  of 
the  town.     Budua*  a  small  fortified  towi. 


TURKEY  IN  EUROPE. 

IjH:  maritime  dBurc^pean  dominions  of  the  Turks 
in  the  Medtterranean,  comprehend  Albania,  the 
Morea>  andEctmelia. 

.  ISk  cctast  pf  Albania^  though  its  limits  are  ^oat 
atridfy  knoim,  is  ^neraUy  considered  to  extend 
&€snAx»tivwtif  on  the  north,  to  the  gulf  of  iLe- 
panto.  Sy  (the  Venetians  it  was  divided  into 
north  and  south ;  the  formei:,  extending  to  tfa^ 
gulf  of  Vallona,  answers  to  the  ancient  Grescian 
lUyricumf  and  Lower  Albania  to  the  ancient 
lipirm.  This  coa^  is  lined  by  a  chain  of  broken 
flMontain^f^  descetiding  rapidly  to  the  sea.  It  i$, 
m  in  ancient  titeies,  inhabited  by  a  semi^iarbarfKiUS 
people,  deserving  the  same  character  as  the  im« 
Gumt  UlyiMW  and  Epirotes,  of  desperate  courage 
and  barbaroMS  ferocity:  they  are  sddiers  and 
robbers.  Many  of  th^m  are  of  the  Greek  and 
Xatm  churches,  others  are  Mussehnen.  Several 
of  these  hordies  have  never  been  ^bjqgated  h(x 

the 


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966  MARimiE  GEOORAFHT. 

thd  Turksy  into  whose  armies  they^  however^ 
enter,  and  are  known  by  the  name  of  Amauts. 
t  Antavari)  the  first  town  of  Turkey,  is  supposed 
to  derive  its  name  from  being  nearly  opposite  to 
Bari  in  Italy :  it  is  built  on  a  steep  mountain,  one 
league  and  a  half  from  the  sea,  but  has  a  port  con* 
siderably  frequented,  being  the  nearest  to  Scutari^ 
the  chief  town  of  North  Albania. 

Dulcigno  (pkhimim)j  is  a  town  of  6,000  in- 
habitants, who  are  considered  amongst  the  greatest 
pirates  of  the  Mediterranean.  The  river  Bojana, 
which  issues  frmn  lake  Scutari  {Labeatis)^  empties 
Itself  south  of  Dulcigno.  The  Dulcignotes,  and 
those  of  Antavari,  are  the  only  tribes  of  Albania 
that  follow  the  sea,  and  many  of  them  enter  onboard 
the  Barbary  corsairs.  Ali,  pasha  of  Joannina,  has 
also  some  armed  galliots  manned  by  Dulcignoteis. 

The  Gulf  of  Drin,  or  Lodrino,  is  formed  oh  the 
south  by  a  peninsula,* of  which  Cape  Redoni  is  the 
north  point  Off  this  Cape  are  the  two  islands  of  St 
Peter,  on  one  of  which  are  the  ruins  o£  the  fort 
of  Scanderbeg.  The  Drin  {^Drimi$\  the  pririci- 
pal  river  of  Albania,  formed  hy  the  junction  of 
two  streams,  named  the  Black  and  White  Drin, 
empties  itself  below  Alessio  {Elisms)^  a  small 
town  of  2,000  inhabitants,  chiefly  fishermen.  The 
river  Mattis  falls  into  the  gulf  S.E.  of  the  Drin, 
and  farther  south  is  the  Ichmo  (ArgeHta)^  a  con- 
siderable distance  up  which  is  Croia,  fiMtnerly  the 
chief  place  of  Albania,  but  now  a  poor  village. 

The  Gulf  of  Durazzo  is  separated  from  that  of 
Drin  by  the  peninsula  that  forms  the  south  side 

of 


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TUBKEY  IN  EVKOW.  ,    S57  ^ 

of  the  latter.  The  N. W.  point  of  the  gulf  is  KmuM^ 
Cape  Palo,  and  the  S.E.  Cape  Cehe :  off  the 
former  is  a  rock  above  water.  The  town  of  Du- 
razzo  {Dyrrachium  and  Epidammcs)^  once  belong- 
ing to  the  Venetians,  celebrated  for  the  exile  of 
Cicero,  is  on  the  north  shore  of  the  gulf  on  the 
isthmus.  The  ruins  of  Cavaglia  (Ckwaid)  are  on 
the  Spirnatza  (^5pw5). 

Vojussa  is  near  the  mouth  of  the  Krevasta 
(^A(ms)j  on  which,  seven  miles  from  the  sea,  are  the 
ruins  of  Apolhmia,  now  called  Polina.  Cavailla, 
near  the  south  bank  of  the  river,  exports  the 
timber  of  Albania.  The  Vouissa  {Celydnus)  emp- 
ties itself  north  of  the  Gulf  of  Vallona,  and  has 
a  good  fishery  at  its  mouth. 

The  Gulf  of  Vallona,  or  Avlona  (Oricum),  is 
surrounded  by  the  Mons  AcrO'Cerauniens^  and 
bounded  on  the  south  by  a  rocky  neck  of  land, 
of  which  Cape  Linguetta,  Glossa  of  the  Greeks, 
is  the  north  point  and  has  a  light.  Off  this 
cape  and  before  the  entrance  of  the  gulf  is  the 
island  Sazeno  (Saso). 

Vallona  (^Aulon)^  on  the  north  shore  of  the 
gulf,  on  a  little  river,  is  a  small  town,  with  an  in- 
different  port,  by  which  Upper  Albania  is  supplied 
with  objects  from  Italy,  viz.  gun  and  pistol  barrels, 
glass,  paper,  and  Calabrian  capotes;  for  which 
it  gives  in  return  the  oil,  wool,  gall-nuts,  and 
timber  of  its  territory.  Ericho  {Oricum)  and 
Caminha,  are  poor  places  at  the  head  of  the 
gulf. 

South  of  VaUcmabegios  the  mountainoas  district 

VOL.  iL  s  of 


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2S8  uMtrrna  geogeapbt.^ 

of  Cimarea  (Chawia%  which  extends  to  Kitrmt^* 
The  Cimarotes  are  chiefly  Mussuhnans,  and  are 
amongst  the  moat  warlike  and  baibarous  of  the 
Albmuans;  they  exchange  the  produce  of  their 
Tallies  and  mountains,  consisting  of  olives,  maize, 
gail-nuts,  and  timber,  for  the  arms  and  other 
necessaries  they  require.  Their  ports  are  Cimarea 
(ChimaTa)^  and  Porto  Palermo  (Panormzis). 

Butrinto,*  a  fortress  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Fistritza  and  Pavla,  with  a  small  territory  round  it, 
formerly  belonged  to  the  Venetians.  The  for* 
tifications  were  destroyed  by  the  French  previous 
to  their  abandoning  it.  The  Pavla  rises  in  Lake 
Pelodi  (^Ancliises)^  and  empties  itself  into  the  sea 
by  a  mouthy  twenty-five  yards  wide,  crossed  by  a 
bar,  with  but  three  or  four  fbet,  and  twelve  to 
sixteen  fiset  within.  It  forms  two  shallow  la* 
goons,  affording  productive  fisheries.  The  in- 
habitants of  this  district  are  in  general  Christians 
of  the  Latin  church,  and  have  been  somewhat 
civilized  by  their  communication  with  the  Ve* 
netians. 

Tp  the  south  o£  Butrinto  is  the  district  of 
Philathi,  named  from  its  chief  town  inland.  Hie 
Philathiotes  are  in  general  Christians  ci  the 
Greek  sect*  Their  ports  are  Kerakia,  GomomzzK 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Calamis  (I^onw),  and 
Sayades,   from  whence  they  supply  Cocfii  with 

catde^ 

•  Besides  Butrinto,  the  VenetlauB  posseased  Parga,  Prevesa,  and  Vor 
nizza,  on  the  coast  of  Albania;  these  places  were  ceded  to  France  by  ihit 
^BMtf  «(  CapipQfoinl^  mi  abwdomi  by  bar,  caoepi  nrevesa. 


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TTKILET  IN  fiUEOM!.  25^ 

cattle,  sheep,  and  oil,  which  are  abundant  in  then:  scuoMMa. 
tcrritor}'. 

Farga  and  its  territory  of  two  square  leagues, 
when  possessed  by  the  Venetians,  contained 
^,000  inhabitants.  The  town  is  built  on  a  peaked 
rock,  which  forms  two  ports:  that  on  the  nortb, 
named  Glykys-Liman  (Port  of  Sweet  Water)  or 
Viliki,  is  before  a  reedy  fresh  water  marsh  j  it  h 
open  to  the  west  and  unsafe.  The  souih  port  is 
sheltered  by  a  jetty  and  can  only  receive  smaR 
craft.  The  town  and  both  ports  are  commanded 
by  a  citadel,  but  which  is  itself  cJommanded  by  i 
hill  to  the  east.  Port  Fanari  (Comarus)  is  a  small 
j^ace  midway  between  Parga  and  the  Gulf  of 
Arta.  This  district  is  inhabited  by  the  SulRotes^ 
who  are  in  general  Greek  Christians.  After  A 
long  struggle  for  independence,  they  have  beett 
subjugated  by  the  celebrated  Ali  Pasha  of  Joaib- 
xiina,  who  at  present  despotic^ly  governs  almost 
^e  whole  of  Albania,  acknowledging  only  the 
nominal  supremacy  of  the  Grrand  Signior. 

The  Gulf  of  Arta  {Ambraeius)  is  of  con- 
inderable  extent,  and  winds  between  rocky  moun- 
tainous shores,  resetnbling  one  of  the  sea  hke^ 
ci  Scodand.  It  has  some  islands  before  its  en- 
trance, and  is  filled  with  banks,  so  as  to  leave  only 
a  narrow  channel  close  to  the  north  shore>  and 
under  the  guns  of  Phevesa. 

This  latter  is  built  on  a  kind  of  peninsula,  a 
little  within  the  north  poiiit  of  the  gulf,  and  is  i 
miserable  dirty  town  of  S,000  inhabitants :  the 
street*  very  nimow  and  iHipavedt  attd  fite  faous^ 

s2  of 


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C60  MARITIME   GEOGRAPHY. 

sMihjtb^.  of  wood,  generally  but  one  story,  or  when  two  the 
ascent  is  by  a  ladder  outside.  It  is  the  chief  port 
of  Lower  Albania,  and  the  general  resort  of  the 
Greek  boats  of  the  Ionian  islands,  where  tliey 
exchange  the  manufactures  of  France  and  Italy* 
for  the  wool,  oil,  and  timber  of  the  country* 
When  this  town  belonged  to  the  Venetians  its 
territory  extended  over  the  peninsula  to  the 
isthmus,  on  which  are  seen  the  ruins  of  Nicopolis, 
three  miles  from  Prevesa.  When  it  was  ceded 
to  France,  it  had  only  a  small  fort  surrounded  by 
pallisades  and  mounting  three  guns.  The  French, 
however,  placed  800  men  here,  but  who  were 
attacked  by  AH  Pasha,  and  after  a  great  display 
of  courage  and  the  carnage  of  more  than  half 
their  number,  they  were  obliged  to  surrender, 
and  Prevesa  has  since  been  under  the  power  of 
Ali. 

The  river  Louro  (Charadrtis)  which  empties  itself 
cast  of  Prevesa,  floats  down  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  timber  from  the  interior* 

The  town  of  Arta  is  situated  among  marshes, 
formed  by  the  Arti  {Arethon  and  Arechtus)^  and 
four  leagues  from  its  mouth,  on  the  north  shore  of 
the  gulf.  It  has  5,000  inhabitants  and  some  good 
houses,  built  by  the  Venetians.  Its  port,  or 
scale,  is  named  Salora,  amongst  th^  marshes  of 
Arti  and  Potami  Valestris  {Acheron)  where  is  a 
custom-house,  which  all  the  exports  and  imports 
of  Lower  Albania  are  obliged  to  pass,  the  im- 
ports byTurks  paying  three  per  cent.,  and  those  by 
Christians  four.     The  Irmchus  river  empties  itself 

ea^ 


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TURKEY   IN   EUROPE.  261 

east  of  Arta  by  two  mouths,  forming  the  island  s<^^^ 
of  Terra  Nova,  composed  of  its  alluvion.  On  the 
south  shore  of  the  gulf  is  Vonizza,  on  the  Petros, 
with  1,000  inhabitants,  whose  chief  employment 
is  fishing  and  making  boutaraga  from  fish  rows. 
Its  territory,  when  possessed  by  Venice,  was  about 
eight  leagues  in  circuit.  It  is  very  unhealthy  from 
the  vicinity  of  marshes. 

The  coast  between  the  Gulf  of  Arta  and  the 
Aspropotamo,  a  distance  of  twelve  leagues,  is 
named  Camia  {Acamania).  On  it  is  Port  Cari- 
dili,  within  thq  island  Sta.  Maura,  by  which,  and 
by  the  wnall  islands  Calamo  and  Caxtos,  it  is 
sheltered  on  the  west,  and  has  high  mountains  on 
the  n**th.  Dragomestre,  on  a  cove,  once  a  large 
town  and  fortress,  is  now  a  poor  fishing  village. 

The  Aspropotamo,  or  White  River  (^Achelous)^ 
has  its  modem  name  from  its  waters  being  dis- 
coloured by  clialk.  It  is  the  most  considerable 
river  of  Greece,  having  in  some  parts  nearly  a 
mile  breadth,  when  swelled  by  the  rains  in  winter. 
Before  its  mouth  are  the  marshy  and  barren  Skro- 
phoe  islands  {Echinades\  and  the  two  rocky  and 
uninhabited  Curzolari  islands  (Oddoe^  which  serve 
as  retreats  to  the  pirates  of   the  Morea. 

East  of  the  Aspropotamos  is  an  extensive  salt 
lagoon,  or  marsh,  \/vath  but  from  three  to  five  feet 
depth.  Towards  the  entrance  is  Messalong^^ 
5,000  inhabitants,  and  at  its  head  Natolica,  a  to- 
lerably built  town,  of  600  wooden  houses.  The 
lagoon  has  a  considerable  fishery  of  red  mullet,  of 
whose  roes  boutaraga  is  made.     Farther  east  the 

8  3  Fidari 


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S6S  ^AK^mtE  GEOORAPBT. 

»«*£*<«••  Fidari  (Evenus)  empties  itself,  passiag  l^hich  we 
enter  the  Gulf  of  Lepanto  (Sea  qf  Crissoy  Sea 
of  Akt/on,  Gulf  qf  Corinth),  which  separates  the 
Morea  from  Greece  proper. 

The  Gulf  of  Lepanto,  in  its  extended  sense,  cod- 

sists  of  two  branches,  being  narrowed  near  its 

middle  by  a  promontory  on  each  shore ;  the  outer 

branch,   of  which   Cape  j^apa  (Jraawn)  is  the 

south   point,    is  sometimes    called   the  Gulf  of 

Patras  i  it  is  thirty  leagues  long,  and  eight  leagues 

at  its  greatest  breadth.    The  promontories  which 

form  the  entrance  into  the  inner  l»:aBch,  are  one 

mile  and  half  distant  from  each  other ;  l^t  on 

the  south  shore  is  named  Cape  Rhium,  and  that  on 

the  north  Anti-Rhium :  by  English  se^mett  this 

strait  is  named  the  Dardanelles  of  lepanto*  On 

each  promontory  is  an  insignificant  castle  not 

capable  of  preventing  the  passage  being  forced  by 

a  single  frigate. 

Litadii.        Lepanto  {Naupactm\  called  Enebechte  by  the 

Turks,  is  a  little  within  Cape  Anti-Rhium;  it  is 

built  on  the  side  of  a  hill  crowned  by  an  insignifi^ 

cant  castle,  which  is  commanded  by  another  hill 

to  the  north.     The  town  on  the  land  side  has  an 

ancient  wall  with  two  gates  and  a  garrison  of  150 

Albanians;   its  population  is  7  to  8,000.     The 

haven  is  only  fit  for  small  craft  haying  but  five  feet 

depth,  and  an  entrance  100  yards  wide,  which  is 

occasionally  closed  by  a  chain.     This  town  and  a 

territory  round  it  was  taken  by  the  Turks  from 

the  Venetians  in  1687.    i^iast  of  Lepai>to,  on  the 

game  shore  of  the  gulf,  are  several  bays,  afibrding 

good 


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TtlSXET  IN  KJKOPi;  S^ 

'goodanehonige  for  large  yessdi :  sacb  are  that  (rf*  £^<*- 
Sakma  (Qrissa)  which  receives  the  river  Salona, 
tm  whidi  is  the  village  ci  Galaxcithi  (Evantke)  ; 
that  of  Asprospitia,  or  White  Buildings  {Ante 
Qfrrha)  j  aod  Crissa,  a  poor  Greek  village  of  300 
houses* 

The  Morea  (Peloponnesus)  ♦  is  joined  to  Greece  «^- 
hy  the  isthmus  of  Corinth,  HesmniU  of  the  Turks^ 
«  neek  oi  land  i^  miles  broad,  the  midcQe  of 
^hich  is  occupied  by  the  ancient  mount  Oeranum^ 
at  whose  western  foot,  and  two  miles  from  the 
^of  e  of  the  gulf  of  Lepanto,  is  ColtmTH  (Cranio 
<£  the  Tiu'ks),  an  assemblage  of  wretched  dwellings 
inhabited  by  sAnmt  500  Turks  and  Greeks,  some 
ruins  alone  attesting  its  ancient  magnificeneei ' 
Leekanmit  its  pcurt  on  the  gulf  of  Lepanto,  is  entirely 
abandoned* 

On  the  south  or  Morea  shape  of  the  gulf  <rf 
Liepanto  are  Pateas  (Patne  and  Arcs}  west  of  cape 
EMum;,  bulk  on  the  ascent  of  a  hill  at  a  short  d^ 
tance  from  the  shore,  and  containing  from  6  td 
^,000- inhabitants  4  among  whom  are  a  number  of 
Jews,  who  act  as  brokers  for  the  Europeaa  mer-^ 
chants  since  the  resident  consuls  ha^ve  been  witb- 
diawn,.  in  consequence  of  the  unhealtbiness  ofi^ 
town.  The  only  fortification  is  a  castibe  in  rui&i 
4m  the  summit  of  a  hilL  The  road  of  Patras  is 
surrounded  by  high  mountains  and  is  perfoctfy 
safe  at  all  times  for  the  kurgefft  sMpe.    There  was 

s  4  anciendy 

*  Pelopoiinesufi  (the  island  qf  PehpO  •    The  medern  nan^e  is  ddrired' 
4tom  the  shape  «f  the  peninsula  resembling  tlie  leaf  of  the  mulberry. 


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W«t  CMft. 


264  MARITIME   GEOGRAPHY'. 

^^  anciently  a  baven  on  the  N.  W.  of  the  town,  but 
\(rhich  being  turned  into  a  marsh  by  the  mud 
carried  into  it,  the  Venetians,  while  in  their 
possession,  raised  the  soil  and  converted  it  into 
gardens.  Patras  exports  considerable  quantities 
of  wool,  silk,  oil,  honey,  wax,  leather,  currante, 
cheese,  gum,  boutaraga,  &c.  The  other  places  of  . 
my  note  on  the  gulf  of  Lepanto  are  Brain,  east  of 
Cape  Rhium,  Vostiza  (jEgium),  a  town  of  3  to 
4,000  inhabitants,  from  whence  the  produce  of 
the  country  is  conveyed  by  small  craft  to  Patras. 

On  the  west  coast  of  the  Morea  are  the  gulfe  of 
Chiarenza,  Tomese,  and  Arcadia.  That  of  Chia* 
renza  (Cyllene)  has  its  modern  name  from  a  village 
cm  the  south  shore.  Its  northern  limit  is  Cape 
Papa  and  its  southern  Cape  Tomese  (Chehmiie$% 
on  which  is  a  castle  nearly  in  ruins  with  a  small 
garrison  of  Albanians. 

The  gulf  of  Tomese  (Chelonites)  is  hounded  by 
the  cape  on  the  north;  its  shores  are  low  and 
wooded.  The  village  of  Tornese  is  south  of  the 
cape  on  a  cove  between  two  hills,  and  near  it  is 
a  hamlet  of  Greek  fishermen ;  off  which,  one  league 
smd  a  half  from  the  shore,  are  two  rocks  s^nst 
which  the  sea  breaks  violently.  The  town  of 
Gastouni,  containing  3,000  inhabitants  and  one  or 
the  best  of  the  Morea,  is  three  miles  from  the  mouth 
of  the  Igliako  (Peneus)  which  falls  into  the  gulf. 

South  €>f  the  gulf  of  Tomese  -we  meet  the 
island  Pontico  {Ichtys)  inhabited  by  fishermen, 
and  within  it  on  the  main  a  rivulet  supposed  to 
|)e  the  ancient  Jardanus.  To  it  succeeds  the  ancient 


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TUBKET   IN   EUROPE.  S65 

SiBeis  which  loses  itself  among  the  sands  of  a  bay, 
fheltered  on  the  north  by  a  ridge  of  hills ;  on  thi» 
river  is  the  village  of  Goloniza.  After  passing  the 
Silleis,  the  coast  presents  a  series  of  lagoons,  com- 
municating with  the  sea  and  affording  productive 
fisheries  and  considerable  quantities  of  salt.  Here 
the  Ropheo  (^/jp^ew^)  empties  itself  among  marshy 
islands  formed  by  its  mud  :  its  mouth  is  crossed  by 
a  bar.  Pyrgos,  a  town  of  2,000  inhabitants,  Greeks, 
Turks  and  Jews,  is  north  'of  the  mouth  of  the 
Ropheo. 

About  five  leagues  south  of  the  Ropheo  com- 
mences a  series  of  wooded  hills,  forming  the  shores 
of  the  open  gulf  of  Arcadia  (Cyparissus)^  of  which 
*  CapeConeilo  (Cypctrissus  prwn.)  is  the  south  point. 
The  town  of  Arcadia  {Cyparissce)  is  toward  the 
south  shore  of  the  gulf  and  on  the  right  bank  of 
a  little  river.  The  Samari  (Nedd)  empties  it»If 
north  of  the  town*  South  of  Cape  Conello  is  Port 
Prodano,  formed  by  the  little  island  of  the  same 
name  (the  ancient  Prote)  and  a  cove  on  the  main. 
The  island  is  uninhabited  and  covered  with  heath, 
but  aflforda  a  quantity  of  salt.  On  the  shore  of  the 
main,  in  the  port,  i«  an  inscription  in  modem 
Greek,  signifying  that  those  who  remain  at  niglit 
between  Prote  and  the  Peloponnesus,  if  they  do 
not  keep  a  good  watch,  will  be  in  the  hands  of  the 
Barbary  corsairs  before  morning. 

The  port  of  Navarin  is  one  of  the  best  of  the 
Mor^a,  on  the  S.  W. :  it  is  formed  by  the  island  of 
Sfagia  (Sphacteria)  and  three  islets,  which  leave 
three  passes*  The  first  and  most  frequented  is  on 

the 


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S66  Sl&IUTlKE  GEOQRJi^HT* 

Ae  nortiiy  between  Sfagia  and  the  main^  and  b 
txxnmanded  by  the  cannon  of  CMd  Navarin ;  iH 
entrance  is  not  above  a  cable's  length  broad,  be- 
tween perpendicular  high  rocky  shores,  but  it 
has  depth  for  the  largest  ships.  The  second 
passage,  between  S&gia  and  a  high  rocky  islet 
(^Asina%  is  only  fit  for  small  craft :  it  is  {n-otected 
by  an  old  fort  on  tiie  island^  on  which  are  also 
some  fishermen's  huts.  The  third  passage,  on  the 
south  side  of  S&gia,  is  intricate.  New  Navarin, 
^r^flrrm  of  the  Turks,  NeoCastron  of  the  Greeks, 
(Pyhii)  is  on  a  promontory  of  the  south  shores 
running  out  from  the  foot  c^  mount  Tematbiai 
Its  streets  are  crocdced,  steep,  and  narrow,  and  it 
has  little  worthy  of  notice,  except  some  antique 
marble  columns  in  the  fa9ade  of  the  principal 
mosque.  It  is  supj^ed  with  water  firom  a  league 
distance  by  an  aquediict,  but  the  water  has  a  soapy 
taste.  The  town  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  widi 
two  gates,  flanked  by  four  bastions,  in  which  are 
some  cannon  without  carriages.  The  usual  garri** 
son  consists  of  sixty  Janissaries,  some  artillery,  and 
a  company  of  200  Albanians.  Old  Navatia  is 
nearly  opposite  the  new,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
bay,  which  it  commMids,  being  built  on  a  rocky 
and  almost  perpendicular  eminence.  It  has  a 
caatle  and  about  sixty  houses.  At  its  foot  is  a 
lagoon  four  miles  in  drcuit,^  which  commomcates 
with  the  port  by  a  boat  channel,,  and  which  in 
winter  is  frequented  by  great  flocks  of  wild  geese 
and  ducks% 

Modem  (oatbe  isle  of  the  ancient  li^Mwm)  is 

some 


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TUBKBT  IN  EtWmL  467 

flome  miles  east  of  Cape  Sainenza:  it  has  6,000  ^1!^ 
VQkhatetantSt  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  a  mountaio 
MKi  surrouiided  by  ancient  fortifications  falling  to 
f  uin.  Its  port  is  sheltered  by  the  island  Si^iisa 
(^TifHn^emus),  two  leagues  south  of  the  entrance. 
TIhs  island  is  two  leagues  long  north  and  gouth 
^oid  three-quarters  of  a  leagtie  broad^  is  well  inha- 
bited by  Greeks  and  has  several  trading  vessehp 
h^i^aag  to  it.  Pilots  ace  usually  taken  here  fbt 
the  Archipelago.  Hie  idand  Cabrera  is  two 
leagues  east  of  Sapienza.  These  two  islands  (an-* 
dent  CEnussce)  belonged  to  the  republic  of  Seven 
Iskads. 

The  gulf  of  Coron  (Messerdd)  has  for  limits  on 
the  west  Cape  Gallo  (Acriias  pronu)  off  which  is 
the  little  island  Yenetica  (Theganusd).  The  Bias 
mad  Pimiasaen^y  themselves  near  the  head  of  the 
gulf;  the  latter,  the  antient  Pamissus^  though  tha 
Ofiost  considerable  river  of  the  Moorea,  has  not  water 
at  its  mouth  even  for  a  boat,  but  it  has  abundance 
qf  fish  and  particularly  lobsters, which  are  said  to 
arrive  at  the  extraordinary  weight  of  thirty  pounds. 
Three  miles  from  the  river's  mouth  is  the  village 
of  Nissa  (^Stenyclarus).  The  principal  places  oix 
the  gulf  are  Coron  on  the  west  shore,  supposed  to 
occupy  the  site  of  the  ancient  Colonis ;  though 
destroyed  by  the  Hussiaas  iu  1770,  and  a  great 
part  of  it  still  in  ruins,  it  is  one  of  the  most  conir 
mercial  towns  of  the  Morea.  On  the  same  ^lore* 
is  Balladia,  a  village  near  the  ancient  CoraneUy  a 
heap  of  ruins.  Calamata  on  the  Apseria,  three 
miles  from  its  mouth  near  the  head  of  the  gulf,  is 

the 


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SoutbCout. 


f68  MABITIME  GEOGRAPHY. 

the  antient  CalamS  and  has  5,000  inhabitants. 
On  the  east  shore  of  the  gulf,  in  the  country  of 
the  Mainotes,*  are  Armyros ;  Chitries  formerly 
the  chief  town  of  the  Mainotes,  but  destroyed  : 
its  port  is  the  nearest  to  Dolons,  a  Considerable 
town,  half  a  league  inland.  Cardamyle,  a  village 
of  100  houses  ;  Platza,  200  houses  ;  Vitulo 
{(Etylos)y  a  hamlet  of  only  twenty-four  houses, 
on  a  little  river,  has  the  best  road  on  the  east  side 
of  the  gulf.  Tetunova,  250  houses,  and  Maina 
(M€ssa\  100  houses,  south  of  which  is  the  island 
Bosetta  (  Thfrides). 

The  gulf  of  Kolokythia  (Lacovictis)  is  (bound- 
ed by  Cape  Matapant  (Tcpnarmn)  on  the  west. 
This  is  a  high  steep  pyramidical  point,  whose  base 
18  cavernous,  and  blackened  by  the  fire  of  ancient 
volcanoes.  On  it  are  the  ruins  of  a  temple  of 
Neptune. 

The  Vasili-Potamo  or  Iris  (Eurotas)  empties  it- 
self into  the  head  of  the  gulf,  and  is  navigable 

for 


.  •  Tbe  Mailmtes  inhabit  the  movotainrms  tract  of  Taygetits,  by  the 
Greeks  called  St.  Lea,  between  the  gulfs  of  Coron  and  Kolokythia.  In 
tome  respects  they  are  not  unworthy  to  occupy  the  country  of  the  ancient 
Sptrtaiis,  having  lutherto  prescnred  their  independence  against  all  the 
power  of  the  Ottoman  empire,  obstinately  reliising  to  pay  any  agitation  or  to 
admit  any  Turkish  officers  into  their  villages,  which  are  governed  separately 
and  democratically,  though  they  have  also  a  chief  who  resides  at  Mara- 
tbonisi.  These  people  are  amongst  the  moet  determined  uid  barbaroiia 
pirates  of  the  Mediterranean,  but  in  their  villages  strangers  are  received  with 
iHendship  and  hospitality,  and  may  travel  through  theur  country  under 
their  escort  with  safety. 

f  From  Metopon,  the  forehead,  being  the  most  southern  projectioD  ci 
^  Merea,  as  well  as  the  south  point  of  £nrope. 


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TURKEY  IN  EUROPE.  *d& 

for  large  boats  for  some  leagues,  where  it  is  cros-  *^ 
sed  by'  a  ledge  of  rocks.  It  washes  the  ruins  of  *^^^*  ^ 
SpartOy  now  called  Misitra.  The  principal  places 
on  the  west  shore  of  the  gulf  are  Kolokythia,  or 
Paleapolis  {Gythimn)y  on  a  little  river.  Rape, 
Mavroyuni,  a  village  and  castle.  Vathi,  a  village 
on  the  brow  of  a  promontory,  with  a  castle  resem- 
bling the  ancient  castellated  mansions  of  the  les- 
ser barons ;  several  other  castles  of  a  similar  ap- 
pearance crown  the  elevations  around.  Maratho- 
nisi,  or  isle  of  Fennil  {CrancB)y  is  close  to  the 
west  shore  of  the  gulf;  it  has  only  a  few  trees  and 
a  Greek  chapel. 

The  village  of  Marathonisi  on  the  main  is  built 
on  a  rock  overhanging  the  sea,  and  almost  per- 
pendicular on  the  land  side ;  it  has  500  houses 
built  of  stone,  and  with  but  one  story,  with  a 
large  square  tower  on  the  highest  part  of  the  rock. 
The  island  Servi  (Onu-gnatos)  is  close  to  the  S.E. 
shore  of  the  gulf,  to  which  it  was  formerly  joined 
by  a  peninsula ;  the  bay  to  the  eastward  of  it  is 
the  ancient  gulf  of  Baue. 

^  The  east  coast  of  the  Morea  commences  at  T^^om^ 
Cape  St.  Angelo  (Malea),  north  of  which  is  Na- 
poli  di  Malvasia,  Monembazia  of  the  Turks, 
built  on  a  small  island  (^Minoa)  close  to  the  shore  ; 
it  has  2,000  inhabitants,  Greeks  and  Turks,  but 
little  trade,  its  port  being  unsafe.  The  ruins  bf 
Epidauru^  Lrmera  are  north  of  it  on  a  height, 
and  are  called  Palcea  EruvasiOy  or  Old  Malvasia. 

The  gulf  of  Napoli  {Avgolkus)   has  its   name 

from 


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Mm.  CuMW 


It^O  MARiniffE  GEOGKAPHT. 

from  NapoU  di  Romania  {NatipUum)^  a  town  oT 
9,000  inhabitants  on  the  east  shore  near  the  head 
of  the  gulf,  and  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Palamides  ; 
it  is  the  only  town  of  the  Morea  that  deserves  the 
2iame  of  fortified,  the  works  constructed  by  the 
Venetians  being  still  in  good  order.  The  town  is 
divided  into  upper  and  lower,  having  a  wall  and 
several  batteries  between  them  j  the  upper  town 
is  also  sunrounded  by  a  wall  with  embrasures.  On 
the  summit  of  Mount  Palamides,  which  is  a  steep 
barren  rock,  is  a  citadel,  the  ascent  to  wfaidi  is  by 
a  flight  of  steps,  covered  over.  The  citadel  is  a  pen- 
tagonflanked  by  five  bastions,  mounting  several  brass 
forty-eight  and  thirty-six  pounders,  andhaving  with- 
in it  extensive  barracks  and  cisterns.  The  west  side 
of  the  town  is  protected  by  a  ledge  of  rocks,  on 
which  is  raised  a  rampart  of  masonry,  with  several 
guns.  The  port  of  Napoli  is  within  an  island, 
forming  two  passages,  o£  which  the  western  may* 
be  closed  by  a  chain,  and  the  eastern  is  defended 
by  a  fortified  tower  on  the  island.  Near  the  east 
shore  of  the  gulf  are  many  islands ;  particularly 
Coronisi  {Pifyusa}^  Genies  (Ha&usa)y  which  has 
a  good  port  named  Tolon,   and  Devil's  Island 

The  Lemno-Potamo  empties  itself  into  the  Bay 
of  Castri  (Hermione)f  of  which  Cape  Mela  (Stm- 
^wnimn)  is  the  western  point.  Between  the  gul& 
ci  Napoli  and  Athens  are  the  islands  Spezia,  Hy- 
dra, and  others.  Spezia  (Tiparemus)  is  half  a 
league  from  the  main,  is  six  miles  long  north  and 
fouth,  and  not  a  mile  broad ;  produces  only  a  lit- 
tle 


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TURKEY  IK  £17B0F&  f7I 

Ue  wide,  and  has  but  one  tolerable  luring  in  the 
middle  of  the  island,  and  the  weD  water  is  brack- 
I3h.  It  has  a  town  of  600  bouses  on  the  N.  W.,  and 
its  whole  population  is  about  3,500.  On  the  north 
is  a  port  tolerably  sheltered,  emd  capable  of  hold* 
ing  fifteen  to  twenty  ships  of  150  tons.  Off  the 
S.E.  end  of  the  island  is  the  islet  Spezia-Pauk>» 
Hydra^  near  Cape  Skylleo,  is  a  rock,  with  so 
thin  a  layer  of  soil,  that  it  is  a  common  expres- 
sion to  say  that  the  Hydriots  have  not  suffi- 
cient earth  to  bury  their  corpses;  nevertheless 
they  have  a  town  of  1,500  lK>uses,  and  a  good 
port  on  the  north  side  of  the  island  :  they  form  a 
kind  of  indq>endent  republic,  and  are  the  most 
expert  seamen  of  the  Greek  islands.  Hydron 
(^Aperopid)  is  a  little  island  west  of  Hydra. 

The  gulf  of  Athens,  of  Engia  or  Salamioe 
{Sar(micu$\  separates  the  Morea  from  the  conti- 
nent of  Greece  on  the  east  i  it  commences  at  Cape 
Skylleo  (Sct/ttanm)  on^the  west^  and  is  limited  by 
Cape  Cdonni  (Stmitwi)  on  tbe  east:  the  modem 
name  of  this  latter  is  from  nine  magnificent  co- 
lumns of  a  temple  of  Minerva  still  remaining  on 
it  On  the  west  shore  of  the  gulf  are  Damala 
{Tr<;ezen)  and  Pidauro  {Eptdaurw)^  celebrated  for 
the  warship  of  Esculapius,  situated  among  ruins. 
Chencrcs^  the  antient  poit  of  Corinth,  is  recc^^nized 
by  the  ruins  of  two  jetties ;  but  the  only  building 
is  a  custom-house,  where  a  duty  is  levied  on  all 
merdiandize  crossing  the  isthmus. 

On  the  Morea  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  Athenii 
are  several  islands,  m.  Poro  {SpfMriOt  or  Round 

Island), 


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272  MARITIME  6£0GRAPH1^ 

Island  and  Hiera^  or  Sacred,)  north  of  Cap^ 
Skylleo,  the  channel  between  which  and  the 
main  forms  the  well  sheltered  port  of  Pogon* 
The  port  of  Poro,  on  the  east  side  of  the  island, 
is  entered  between  two  ledges  of  rocks,  extending 
more  than  a  league.  It  has  a  little  town  on  an 
eminence.  South  of  Poro  is  the  islet  Calauria, 
celebrated  for  the  death  of  Demosthenes,  and  for 
a  magnificent  temple  of  Neptune,  Engia  Island 
(^JEgince)  is  of  considerable  size,  and  anciently  fa- 
mous for  its  commerce.  It  has  a  to\ra  of  SOO 
houses,  is  fertile,  and  according  to  a  traveller  of 
the  middle  of  the  last  century,  was  then  "so 
pestered  with  a  sort  of  red-legged  partridges, 
that  all  the  people  are  annually  summoned  by  th^ 
magistrate  to  destroy  their  eggs,,  or  otherwise  they 
would  eat  up  all  the  corn  and  occasion  a  famine.*' 
The  other  islands  are  Angistri  (Ptiionesus)^  Gaid- 
ronisi  (JPatrocleid)^  a  barren  rock,  and  several  islets. 
The  north  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  Athens,  or 
Attica,  now  Livadia,  is  rocky  and  lined  with 
islands.  The  famous  Athens  still  exists  in  tlie 
insignificant  Turkish  town  of  Setines,  or  Atines, 
containing  about  8,000  inhabitants,  on  the  Ilissus» 
two  leagues  from  its  mouth.  It  has,  however, 
still  some  trade,  exporting  oil,  kermes,  madder,  ve- 
loni,  honey,  and  wax.  The  Pirteus  is  pointed  out  by 
the  bases  of  two  jetties  under  water,  and  is  called 
Porto  Leone,  from  the  sculptured  %ure  of  a 
lion,  formerly  seen  here :  it  receives  only  small 
ships  through  a  narrow  channel,  between  banks. 
Megara  contains  3,000  Greeks,  and  ii  two  miles 

from 


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TURKEY  IN  EUROPE.  273 

from  the  sea.  Elef^is  (^Eleusis)^  celebrated  for  its 
ancient  mysteries  in  honour  of  Ceres,  is  a  mise- 
rable village  of  thirty  mud  hovels,  inhabited  by 
Albanians;  its  haven,  between  two  jetties,  re- 
<:eives  small  crafl. 

The  principal  island  on  the  east  shore  of  the 
gulf  is  Colouri  {Saiamis),  before  the  port  of  Eleu- 
sis;  it  is  poorly  cultivateid,  inhabited  only  by 
Greeks,  who  have  a  town  of  700  inhabitants  oa 
a  deep  cove  on  the  west  side,  and  some  villages. 
Pelcuda  island,  W.  by  S.  of  Cape  Colonni,  is  sur- 
rounded by  rocks  above  and  under  water. 

Following  the  coast  from  Cape  Cqlonni  to  the 
nordi,  we  first  meet  Poirt  Panormo^  called  Raptiby 
the  Greeks,  which  is  formed  by  a  bay  divided 
into  two  coves,  aild  sheltered  by  three  rocky  is^ 
lets.  ^ 

Macrcmisi,  or  Long  Island  {Helena  and  Maoris)^ 
lays  E.N.E.  of  Cape  Colonni,  the  channel  within 
it  being  safe,  aild  forming  a  good  road ;  the  island 
as  generally  low,  but  has  two  small  elevated  islands 
near  it,  which  make  like  hills  on  the  main. 

The  island  of  Negropont,  Egripos  of  the  Turks 
{Eubcea\  is  separated  from  the  coast  of  Greece 
by  the  Strait  of  Euripus,*  only  100  yards  wide, 
and  which  is  said  to  have  been  formed  by  an 
earthquake ;  the  strait  is  now  crossed  by  a  bridge. 
In  ancient  times  this  island  received  the  name  of 
^e  granary  of  Greece,  and  it  still  retains  its  na- 

VOL.  11.  T  tural 

«  The  iouth  portion  of  tbe  channel  is  called  thtt  Canal  of  Negropont, 
imd  mm  nonb  the  Gnlf  of  Tbalanda,  from  a  town  on  the  main. 


Lifadta. 


EattCoMt. 


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S74  maritime;  cEocKAinarr. 

tural  fertility,  but  its  modern  inhabitants  want  the 
iMtcoMt.  industry  of  the  ancient  to  call  forth  its  riches; 
together  with  Attica  it  forms  a  pashalik.  Its  most 
remarkable  headlands  are  Cape  Rouge  (Petalia)^ 
the  S.W.  pcnnt  of  which  is  an  island;  Cape  Ge- 
reste  the  south  point ;  Cape  Doro  (Capareum)  on 
the  S.E^  off  which  is  the  islet  (Myrtos) ;  Cape 
Blanco  (Ceneum)  the  N.W.  point*  Egripo,  the 
chief  place^  is  in  the  narrowest  part  of  the  strsdt^ 
and  is  thought  to  occupy  the  site  of  Chalcis,  the 
ancient  capital ;  it  has  4,000  inhabitants.  Castel 
Rosso  {Xaristus)  is  on  the  &W.  Port  Dailp,  a 
cove  north  of  Cape  Doro,  open  to  the  SrE.  Off 
the  middle  point  of  the  island  is  a  group  of  islets 
called  SkiSL  Negropont  was  considered  one  of 
the  most  important  possessions  of  Venice  in  the 
time  of  her  splendour,  and  the  Turks  have  still 
an  idea  that  the  Christian  powers  meditate  an 
attack  on  it,  hence  they  are  very  jealous  of  Chris- 
tian travellers  visiting  it. 

Within  the  north  end  of  Negropont,  in  the 
pashalik  of  Joannina  (Thessab/),  are  the  gulfs  of 
Zeitoun  or  Isdin,  and  Volo :  the  former  {MaUa} 
has  a  town  of  the  same  name  of  4,000  inhabi-- 
tants,  situated  on  a  little  river,  thought  to  be  the 
ancient  Achehvs^  it  has  some  coasting  trade* 
The  gulf  of  Volo  (Pelasgicus)  is  eight  leagues 
Jong  and  two  wide  at  the  entrance.  Volo  (lolchos), 
at  the  head  of  the  gulf,  is  an  ill-built  town  with  a 
small  castle,  among  unhealthy  marshes,  and  a  ha- 
ven for  small  craft.  Tricbery,  on  the  east  shore 
of  the  gulf»  has  5^000  inhabitants^  and  is  one  of 


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TUttKET  IK  £CR<H».  ^TJS 

the  most  frequented  ports  of  Greece ;  a  number 
of  the  Greek  vessels  are  built  here. 

The  Gulf  of  Salonica  (Thermmcu^  penetrates 
into  Macedonia,  being  bounded  on  the  S.W.  by 
the  ancient  Thessahf^  along  which,  near  the  shore, 
runs  a  ld%y  mountainous  ridge,  among  whose 
summits  are  Pelian,  Ossa,  and  Olympus.  The 
S.W.  point  of  the  gulf  is  Cape  St*  Greorge  (&- 
ptas).  On  the  west  shore  it  receives  the  Kostuni^ 
{Penem)y  which  flows  dirough  tiie  vale^f  Tempe^ 
and  tow^u'ds  the  head  the  Platamona  {HaUach-- 
m(m)j  the  Vbtritza  {Atreus)^  and  the  Vardari 
{Axius)y  which  latter  rises  in  Hsemus,  and  has  a 
course  of  I70  miles.  The  ports  on  the  gulf  are 
Zagora  and  Claritza  on  the  west.  Salonica  {Thes^ 
salonka  and  Thermo)^  at  the  head,  the  ancient 
capital  of  Macedonia,  is  one  of  the  most  consi^ 
derable  towns  of  Turkey,  having  60,000  inhabit 
tants ;  it  is  situated  among  marshes,  has  a  consi-^ 
derable  trade,  and  is  the  residence  <^  ^^reign 
consuls. 

The  Grulf  of  Cassandra  or  Aidmano  (Tcnmeus) 
is  separated  from  that  of  Salonica  by  a  peninsula 
(Paflene),  of  whidi  the  extreme  point  is  Captf 
Paillouri  {Canastronmi).  Aiomano  {O^Aus),  al 
its  head,  is  of  little  consideration. 

The  Gulf  of  Monte  Santo  {Singiiicus)  is  seps^ 
rated  from  that  of  Cassandra  by  a  peninsula  {Si^ 
ihoma)^  of  which  the  eztremi^  13  Cape  Drepano 
(Jp^Im).  Serine  is  a  little  town  at  its  head^ 
The  peninsula  of  Monte  S9Qj»»  JBgfM'OrQs  of 

T  9  th« 


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mmmtUa, 


f76  ,    MARITIME  OEOORAFHT. 

the  modern  Greelcs  (Mount  Athos),  separates  thfv 
gulfs  of  Monte  Santo  and  Contessa  {Strymomcta^ 
The  eastern  point  of  Mount  Athos  is  Cape  St^ 
George  {Nympiusum)^  whose  triple  summit  is  seeiv 
from  the  Sigeum  promontory,  100  miles  distant^ 
On  the  west  shore  of  the  gulf  of  Contessa  is  Port 
Istillar,  a  deep  inlet.  Contessa,  at  the  head  on 
the  Scares  river  {Strymon)^  and  Orphano  on  th^ 
east  shore,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Marmora,  are  in-r 
significant 

East  of  the  Gulf  of  Contessa  are  Cavailla 
{Neap(J(U&)j  Boumon,  Ulpia,  Topiris  on  the  Kara^ 
wyui  (N€Stu$%  Marogna  and  MacrL  East  of  this 
latter  is  the  gulf  ^nos  {Stentom  lacus)^  which 
receives  the  Maritza  {Hebrus\  whose  source  is  in 
Mount  Hemus,  and  its  course  fifty  leagues  ;  it  is 
navigable  for  large  boats  to  Adrianople,  the  se- 
cond city  of  Turkey,  twenty-four  leagues  from  its 
mouth. 

The  gulf  of  Saros  (Melanes)  is  separated  on 
the  south  by  the  ancient  Thracian  Chersonesug 
from  the  I^danelles.  The  north  point  of  the 
gulf  i^  Cape  Paxi  (Sarpedomum).  Ibridgi,  on  the 
no^th  shore,  is  the  only  pljtce  of  any  note.. 


TURKEY  IN  ASIA, 


The  maritime  Asiatic  dominions  of  Turkey  in 
the  Medit^rrannean,    comprehend  the  east  and 

south. 


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TtJRKEY  J»  ASIA.  ^277 

•wuth  coasts  of  Asia  Minor,*  and  the  country  of  ^'"^ 
Syria.  ^*^^^ 

Tlie  west  coast  of  Anatolia  is  indented  by  a 
succession  of  gulfs,  and  lined  with  islands.  Com- 
'  mencing  at  Cape  Janissary,  the  south  point  of  the 
entrance  of  the  Dardanelles,  we  first  meet  with 
Cape  Troy;  half  a  league  50uth  of  which  the  cele- 
brated Scamander*  now  empties  itself,  and  is  an 
insignificant  torrent,  called  Kirke-Zeuler  by  the 
Turks,  .  From  Cape  Janissary  hither  the.  distance 
is  eight  miles,  and  the  coast  is  composed  of  per- 
pendicular, granite  rocks,  300  feet  high,  ¥^bose 
'summits  form  a  platfonn,  on  which  are  some  villa- 
ges and  ancient  ruins,  seen  at  a  great  distance 
from  sea,  * 

Six  leagues  south  of  Cape  Janissary  are  thp 
Tuins  of  Aiexandria  Troas,\  Eski  Stamboul,  or 
old  Constantinople  of  the  Turks :  the  whole  of 
the  wallsi  flanked  with  towers,  still  remain.  It 
had  a  haven^  formed  by  a  jetty  on  the  south,  and 
t)y  Cape  Tpuzelek,  and  some  rocks  off  it,  on  the 
north ;  but  which  is  now  entirely  filled  with  sanci. 
South  of  the  ruins  are  two  thermal  springs. 

The  first  gulf,  coming  from  the  north,  is  that  of 
Edremid  {Addramyttemus),  of  which  Cape  Baba 
^Lectum)  is  the  north  point,  and  is  high,  but  level 

T   3  OH 

•  The  peninsula  of  A^a  Minor  is  divided  by  the  Turks  into  the  pnnincet 
of  Anatolia,  on  the  west;  jCaramania,  on  the  east ;  and  Room,  on  th« 
4>orth. 

t  Alexander,  after  gaining  tl^e  battle  of  Grauicus,  rej)^rcd  to  this  tow* 
^  sacrifice  to  ^ilnerva,  and  haying  enriched  smd  adorned  it,  gave  it  hli 


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S78  MARITIME  OfiOGRAPHT. 

on  the  topf  tndcing  like  an  island  M^h^i  first  seen. 
Within  the  cape  is  Uie  village  of  Baba,  celebrated 
for  its  sword  blades,  defended  by  a  poor  fort»  and 
with  a  small  haven  for  boats,  formed  by  a  jetty 
of  loose  stones.  The  diief  places  on  the  gulf  are 
on  the  north  shore.  Asso  {Assus,  in  ru;ns),  and 
Ai^;andros.  Edremid,  or  Landennitta  (AdranofU 
fium)  at  the  head  of  the  gulf,  anciently  a  conside* 
rable  and  rich  town,  is  now  inhabited  oply  by  ^ 
few  Greek  fishermen.  On  the  south  shore  of  the 
gulf  is  jSidonia,  before  which  are  the  islands 
Idusco-Nisi  (HecatonNisi),  or  Isles  of  Mice. 

The  Gulf  of  Stigia  (^Argenussiaf)  has  Cape 
Colouri  for  its  south  point.  Pergama,  at  the  foot 
of  a  steep  rock,  on  the  bank  of  tlie  Grimasti 
(Caicus)^  which  falls  into  the  gulf,  was  a  celebrated 
town  of  antiquity,  and  is  still  considerable ;  its 
port,  nailed  Jalea  (Elaed)^  is  at  the  n^outh  of  the 
river,  before  t))e  gulf  are  the  islands  Janot 
(^ArgentmcB), 

The  gulf  of  Uzelaffi,  or  Sandarli  (Cunueus  or 
Qfnie)^  has  the  towns  of  Nemourt  (Qma)  and 
Sandarli.  Phokea*  of  the  Greeks,  Foilleri  of 
the  Ti)rk$  (Pkocvea),  is  an  inconsiderable  village, 
between  the  gulfs  of  Uzelaffi  and  Smyrna ;  but 
has  a  good  port,  sheltered  by  a  group  of  rocky 
islands,  called  the  Ants,  t 

Tlje  Gulf  of  Smyrna  {Smtfrnoms  and  Hfrmeen) 

is 

P  Supposed  fo  be  named  ftoin  the  number  of  seals,  in  QnA  Phooa, 
taken  near  it. 
f  Three  ai^  of  spn^e  size,  named  St.  George,  Great  Island,  and  UtUp 


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TUmKEY  IN  ABU.  279 

19  formed  on  the  west  and  9outh  by  the  irr^ular  jm^ 
peninsula  of  Erythroey  composed  of  two  ridges  of  wmco«i. 
ks^y  hiUs,  one  of  which  terminates  at  Karo/^ 
hpuronot  tlje  Black  Cape  (M^osna  Prom.)^  a 
dt^pendous  mass  of  woody  precipices,  two  of 
^bose  peaks  are  named  the  Brothers,  or  Paps.  * 
The  whole  of  this  mountainous  peninsula  is  inter* 
apersed  with  thick  forests,  abounding  with  wild 
iiogs  and  game.  The  isthmus  that  unites  it  to 
the  continent  is  level  and  well  cultivated.  The 
^If  is  twelve  leagues  long,  terminating  in  a  kind 
^f  basin,  called  by  seamen  the  Bay  of  Smyrna. 
On  the  north  shore  it  receives  the  Sarabat  (^Her- 
$nu$),  celebrated  for  its  golden  sand,  and  which  is 
increased  by  the  still  more  famous  Pwtolus^ 
Menomen,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Hermus,  is  the 
ancient  Ternnos.  Before  the  river  are  several  sand 
banks  and  drowned  islands.  On  the  west  shore  of 
the  gul^  two  miles  within  Karabourqun,  is  £nglish 
Island ;  and  two  leagues  further  are  the  islands 
Vpuria  (jClazomena!)^  the  principal  of  which  is 
named  Long  Island  by  Eurc^ieans,  and  Kiu- 
slin  by  the  Turks  (Drymusd)  ;  the  second  is  named 
St.  John  (^Marathtisd).  They  are  uninhabited, 
but  abound  in  game  and  raUbits. 

Smyrna,  Ismir  of  the  Turks,  at  the  head  of  the 
gulf,  is  the  third  city  of  Turkey,  having  120,000 
inhabitants,  Tories,  Greeks,  western  Christians, 
and  Jews*    It  is  the  grand  emporium  of  the  com- 

T  4  merce 

*  Pa|M  \8  tbe  name  Gommonly  given  by  seamen  to  round  monntainSy 
%irnMnatiog  in  a  f  mall  peak,  from  ibeir  reiemblanoe  to  a  woman's  breasts. 


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Wttfc  COMt. 


980  MARITIME  OEOORAPHT. 

merce  of  the  Levant,  and  all  the  trading  nations 
have  resident  consuls  here.  It  has  two  castles,  of 
^ttle  strength,  commanding  the  city  and  andbor* 
age.  The  European  christians  have  a  distinct 
quarter  of  the  town  allotted  them,  called  the  Frank 
Street.  Smyrna  dates  its  foundation  1100  years 
before  the  christian  era,  and  claims  Fhe  honour  of 
having  given  birth  to  Homer  and  Bion.  A  deep 
grotto,  in  which  the  little  river  Melas  has  its 
source,  is  thought  to  be  the  spot  where  the  father 
of  poetry  received  his  birth,  and  where  he  com- 
posed his  poems. 

On  the  west  shore  of  the  peninsula  of  Erythrae, 
opposite  the  Isle  of  Scio,  is  Coron-Tchesm^,  or  the 
Dry  Fountairij  celebrated  for.  two  great  naval  bat- 
tles ;  the  first  gained  by  the  Romans  over  the  fleet 
of  Antiochus,  and  the  second  by  the  Russians 
over  the  Turks,  in  1770»  Tchesm^  is  a  small  town 
and  castle,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Cissus.  Ery* 
threOy  celebrated  for  the  oracles  of  the  sybil,  is 
thought  to  have  been  about  two  leagues  to  the 
north  of  Tchesm^,  whei*fe  is  now  a  village  called 
Rytre. 

The  Gulf  of  Scala  Nova  (Ephesus)  is  formed 
on  the  north  by  the  peninsula  of  Erythrae,  whose 
south  point  is  Cape  Bianca,  or  White  Cape  (Ar- 
germum  prom.)     Scala  Nova*   (NeapoUs\  at 

its 


*  The  principal  trading  towns  of  the  Levant  are  called  in  Italian  StaU^ 
in  French  EcheOe,  from  the  usual  method  of  landing  goods,  which  is  hy 
ladderi,  formed  into  a  kind  of  bridge,  from  the  boats  to  the  shore.  In 
lome  English  works  wehsre  seen  this  word  translated  9^e, 


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^TURKEY  IN  ASIA*  S81 

its  head,  is  a  populous  town,  ivith  a  castle  and  .^ 
considersdble  trade ;  near  it  the  ancient  OxystruSj  ^*^  ^"^^ 
called  by  the  Turks  Kitchik-Minder,  or  Little 
Meander,  and  also  Kara-Soui,  or  Black  Water, 
empties  itself  among  marshes*  Bodroun  Island 
{Teo8)j  on  tibe  north  shore  of  {he  gulf,  is  celebrated 
as  the  birth-place  of  Anacreon.  Lebidus  and  Co- 
iophofty  also  on  the  north  shore,  are  entirely  de- 
stroyed ;  but  one  of  the  ports  of  the  latter  still 
exists,  and  is  called  Zi)16.  Ephems^  celebrated 
for  the  temple  of  Diana,  is  thought  to  have  stood 
a  little  south  of  the  present  village  of  Aio-Tsoluk, 
or  Assya  Luk,*  near  the  Caystrus ;  and  immens6 
ruins  are  still  seen  here. 

The  Gulf  of  Ufabassi,  named  from  a  little  river 
at  its  head  {Latmos),  has  for  its  north  point  Cape 
St.  Mary  {Trigelium)^  and  for  its  south  Cape  del 
Arbre.  It  receives  the  river  Mceander  (Boudjuk- 
Minder,  or  Grreat  Maeander  of  the  Turks),  whose 
tortuous  course  is  said  to  be  200  miles :  towards 
its  mouth  it  is  deep,  muddy,  and  rapid.  The  city 
of  Miktus,  the  capital  of  Ionia,  and  celebrated 
as  the  birth-place  of  Anaximander  and  Thales,  was 
on  the  south  shore  of  the  gulf,  and  its  ruins  are 
thought  to  be  those  seen  near  the  little  village  of 
Palatchi. 

The    Gulf  of   Assem-Kalasi  {Mylassa)    Cape 

Angeli, 

«  Com4>tk)i|i  of  iEgioa-TheologoSy  the  holy  tbeologiflty  a  oame  given  hy 
<he  modern  Greeks  to  St.  John  the  Evangelist,  whom  they  consider  fA  the 
founder  of  the  church i>f  Ephesus,  and  \vlio,  as  well  as  the  Virgin  Mary, 
4ifidliere. 


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Jwiotlm. 
WcitCoMU 


£8f  HABITIME  OEOGRAPUY. 

Axigeiif  south  point,  has  its  modern^  name  6xm  a 
town  (ancient  Jassus)  at  its  head»  on  a  little  per 
ninsula  formerly  an  island.  On  the  soudi  shore 
of  the  gulf  the  ancient  Myndtis  is  recpgi^zed  in 
Myndes;  and  the  village  of  Mylassa  is  built 
among  the  ruins  of  the  imcient  town,  which  had  a 
port  .on  the  Ceramic  gulf. 

The  Gulf  of  Stanco  (CeranUcus)  has  Cape  Crio 
(Triopkm)  for  its  south  point  On  the  north 
shore,  two  leagi^s  within  the  gulf,  are  the  ruins  of 
HdlicamMsuSy  called  Boudroun  by  the  Turks» 
Larzo,  at  the  head  of  the  gulf,  and  Stadibo,  on  the 
south  shore,  are  of  little  consequence.  At  the 
entrance  of  the  gulf,  close  to  the  shore,  are  the 
islands  Salvada  {Iso  and  Argies). 

The  gulf  of  Symia  (Doridis)  has  Cape  Crio  for 
the  north  point,  and  Cape  Volpe  (Ct/nossema)  on 
the  east :  the  island  of  Symia,  before  it,  is  small 
and  rocky,  but  inhabited.  The  rocks  round  it 
affi>rd  quantities  of  sponge,  diving  for  which  is  the 
chief  employment  of  the  inhabitants.  On  the 
north  shore  is  port  Genovese,  liie  anci^Qt  On^dm% 
celebrated  for  the  worship  of  Venus.  Between 
the  Gulfs  of  Symia  and  Maori  are  Fort  Cavali^» 
Port  Marmorice  {Percea)^  an  extensive  land  locked 
basin,^^)  Fort  Physco  {Phfscus\  and  Fort  Eskilis. 

The  Gulf  of  Maori  (Glaucus)  runs  in  two  leagues 
between  high  shores,  and  terminates  in  a  fine  val* 
ley.  On  the  west  shore  is  Mount  Doedalus.  Th^ 
rains  of  Thebmssus  are  seen  on  a  little  river,  and 
pear  them  is  the  present  little  town  of  Maori, 
Fort  Symbolo  is  also  on  this  gulf^  and  receives  the 

ancient 


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TURKEY  IN  ASIA.  S83 

«ncieiit  GlmumSj  a  smtll  ixdxisfsaent  gtreaml    In 
<he  gulf  are  several  islands.  ••^  ^' 

The  Mcient  Xan^n^s^  Ex-Senide  of  the  Turks, 
^ospties  itedf  east  of  Mount  Cragus,  vdthin  the 
Inlands  of  Serpent  and  Folcello.  Farther  east  are 
the  ruins  of  a  magnificent  amphitheatre,  supposed 
jto  mark  the  site  of  the  ancient  Patera. 

The  island  of  Castel  Rosso  (CtsthemOy  Phenicia^ 
and  MegistOy)  is  half  a  league  in  circuit,  and  se- 
parated from  the  main  by  a  very  narrow  channel. 
It  is  a  great  perpendicular  rock  with  a  village  of 
100  houses,  whose  inhabitants  are  seamen  em- 
}doyed  in  conveying  timber  to  Alexandria.  The 
village  is  on  a  rocky  point  at  the  foot  of  a  perpen* 
dicular  hill,  and  on  the  point  is  a  small  fort ;  a 
castle  built  by  the  Venetians  is  in  tlie  middle  of 
the  village.  The  island  has  but  one  small  spring, 
but  ships  lure  supplied  with  rain  water  from  cis- 
terns. Cacamo  {Myra)^  with  great  ruins,  be- 
tween Castel  Rosso  and  Cape  Chelidoni  (Sacruni). 
Off  this  latter  cape  are  several  banks  abovd  water. 

In  the  Gulf  of  Satalia,  east  of  Cape  Chelidoni, 
are  Porto  Venetico  (Ofympus),  and  Fionda  (Fase- 
Us).  Satalia,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Olbia 
and  on  the  Duden-sooui  (Cataractes)  has  30,000 
inhabitants,  and  a  considerable  trade  with  the 
Archipelago.  Kupri-baz£ur  and  Kara  Hissar,  on 
the  Kupri  (Cestrus\  are  thought  by  different  wri- 
ters to  be  the  ancient  Parga.  In  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Kara  Hissar,  vast  quantities  of  pc^ies  are 
cultivated  for  the  making  of  opium. 

To 


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"SS^  MARITIME  GEOGRAPHY. 

^auram^.  To  the  cast  of  Satalia  the  ridge  of  Taurus  ap» 
proaches  the  coast  and  projects  into  the  sea  it 
steep  rocky  clifi^.  The  principal  places  in  succes- 
sion are  Canddoro  (Side\  at  the  moutii  c^a  little 
river  j  Alayiah  (Gracesium\  on  a  peninsula ; 
Selenti  {S^us  and  Tr^a9iopoUsy  on  the  Sdentit^ 
^here  Trajan  died;  Antiochetta  (^Antiockia  ad 
.  Oragtm)  ;  Charadro,  Anemur,  on  a  promontory } 
Porto  Figuero,  a  cove  sheltered  by  an  island  Xm 
the  west,  has  fresh  water;  Celindro  or  Kelma^ 
near  which  are  the  ruins  of  Celendaris ; '  Selef  keh 
{Seleuda  Trachea)  on  the  river  Kelek  (Gs^- 
cadmus)y  has  a  harbour  named  Port  Cavalier; 
Curco  (Coryats)  :  farther  east  stood  Soli,  whence 
the  term  solecism  is  derived. 

TarstiSf  once  the  rival  of  Athens  and  Alexandria, 
is  now  reduced  to  a  poor  village,  but  while  the  work- 
manship of  manhas  disappeared,  nature  stiH  remains 
'  the  same.  The  silver  Cy dnus*  washes  the  mud-huts 
of  the  present  Tarsus,  as  it  did  the  majestic  tem- 
ples and  palaces  of  the  ancient,  and  fertilizes  the 
still  luxuriant  plain  where  Sardanapulus  had  en- 
graved at  the  foot  of  his  statue,  **  enjoy  life ;  aH 
else  is  nothing.*'  It  was  also  on  the  Cydnus  that 
Cleopatra  displayed  her  magnificeBt  barge,  and 
by  her  voluptuous  charms  transformed  a  con- 
quering monarch  into  an  obsequious  lover.  This 
little  river  is  likewise  celebrated  for  the  death  rf 
the  Emperor  Frederick  Barbarossa,  who  was 
drowned  in  it  in  1189>  when  going  into  Palestine 
with  an  army  of  .the  Cross. 

Adant 

•  Now  Sakh. 


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Adana  is  a  town  of  5  to. 6,000  inhabitants,  on  ^1 
the  Seihoun  (&irt^),, which  issues  through  a  chasm 
in  Mount  Taurus,  the  angles  of  which  correspond 
«o  exactly  as  evidently  to  denote  its  being  formed 
by  a  sudden  convulsion. 

^The  Gulf  of  ScandarooB  or  Alexandretta  (IssU 
cus)  is  limited  on  the  north  by  Cape  Mallo,  and 
on  the  south  by  the  Raz^lrKatviarj  or  Cape  of  the 
Wnd  Boar,  in  Syria,  distant  firom  each  otlier  seven 
leagues.  Near  the  nortji  shore  are  some  danger- 
ous shoals,  but  the  southern  is  clear.  On  the 
former  are  Aias  (Mgas)  at  the  mouth  of  the  Py* 
ramus.  Ajaccio,  a  considerable  town  and  castl^ 
on  the  Issufi.  Byas,  a  large  walled  town  and  castle, 
has  a  good  txade  with  Cyprus,  Syria,  and  Egypt. .  ^ 


S^nria  is  bounded  on  the  north  b^  the  mountains 
Almadagh  {Mom  Amanus),  and  extends  along 
the  co^t  fcom  the  river  Byas  to  the  torrent  of  El 
Ariscih^  which  separates  it  from  Egypt  A  ch^in 
of  l<^y  hills  line  it  throughout  its  whole  length, 
whose  foot  is  from  one  to  eight  leagues  from  the 
Aore.  Amongst  them  Mount  Libanus,  the  sacred 
Lebanon,  rises  conspicuously  behind  Tripoli ;  its 
£^rest  of  cedars  is,  however,  now  reduced  to  abotJij; 
twenty  trees,  but  they  are  of  enormous  size.  The 
rivers  which  find  their  way  to  the  sea  descending 
immediately  from  the  mountains,  ,are  generally 
but  torrents,  which  are  nearly  dry  in  sunuqer,  bu^ 
are.much  swollen  in  winter. 

The 


tf^ 


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t86  NfAiaTTMB  OIJOGRAPRT. 

The  sea  has  considerably  receded  from  the  coast 
of  Syria,  particulariy  in  the  Gulfof  Alexandretta, 
where  are  still  seen  the  walls  of  a  castle  erected  by 
the  Mamelukes,  now  one  mile  and  a  half  from  the 
shore,  and  in  which  there  remain  the  rings  to 
which  ships  made  fast.  This  accession  of  land  is 
produced  by  the  prevailing  northerly  winds  in 
winter,  which  cause  a  great  surf  that  throws  up 
sand  on  the  flat  beach, 

Alexandretta,  Scandereon  of  the  Turks,  or 
Little  Alexandria,  was  built  by  Alexander  the 
Great  after  the  battle  of  Issus.  TTie  foundations 
of  the  ancient  city  to  a  great  extent  are  visible  in 
many  places  a  mile  a  half  south  of  ^be  present 
town,  which  latter  is  a  miserable  open  village  of 
200  houses,  close  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains, 
and  amongst  deadly  marshes,  which  render  it 
insufferably  hot  as  well  as  unhealthy  in  summer, 
in  which  season  the  Europeans  who  reside  here 
for  commercial  afiairs  retire  to  Bylan,  a  healthy 
village  in  the  mountains,  three  leagues  distant. 
The  English  have  at  Alexandretta  a  factory  in  the 
centre  of  a  piece  of  ground  of  five  acres,  walled 
in.  The  town  is  supplied  with  water  firom  m 
remarkable  fountain,  called  Jacob's  Well,  whidb 
gushes  from  the  foot  of  a  rock  amidst  the  ruins 
of  the  ancient  city;  this  water  is  extremely  pure, 
and  finds  it  way  to  the  sea.  The  trade  of  Alex- 
andretta may  be  estimated  by  the  number  of 
vessels  that,  on  an  laverage,  enter  it  annually^ 
viz.  !teVen  French  from  Marseilles,  five  to  six 
English,   five  Dutch,    sevm  Venetians,    besides 

several 


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THE  MEDITEERANEAK—SYEIA*  287 

several  vessels  from  Turkey  and  Egypt,  chiefly  ^' 
EngUsh  and  French.  The  road  of  Alexandreita 
has  good  anchorage,  but  the  sudden  gusts  of  wind 
from  the  mountains,  named  rageas^^  require  ships 
to  be  well  found  with  anchors  and  cables.  Small 
vessels  lay  a  mile  from  the  town  in  eight  fathoms, 
and  large  ones  in  foiuteen  or  sixteen. 

Between  Alexandf etta  and  Byas  are  the  remains 
of  some  masonry,  believed  by  the  Jews  of  these 
places  to  have  been  pillars  erected  to  mark  the 
spot  where  Jonas  landed  when  thrown  up  by  the 
whale;  and  between  these  pillars  and  Alexan- 
dretta  is  a  remarkable  rent  from  top  to  bottom  of 
ia  high  mountain,  which  from  the  correspondence 
of  its  opposite  sides,  seems  to  have  been  produced 
by  an  earthquake. 

The  Gulf  of  Antioch  is  separated  from  that  of 
Aleitandretta  by  Cape  Kanzir  {Mont  Rho$sicus\ 
and  6n  the  south  is  limited  by  Cape  Ziaret.  The 
north  shore  is  mountainous  for  fifteen  leagues  from 
Cape  Ktfnzir  and  from  thence  to  the  river  Orontes 
it  is  low.  This  river,  called  by  the  Turks  Nahr  A 
*Aa8i,t  is  the  principal  one  of  Syria,  having  a  very 
tortuoUs  course  c^  sixty  leagues.  In  summer  it 
is  cmly  prevented  from  running  dry  in  several 

places 

•  The  rdgea  is  the  name  given  tb  these  squalls  by  French  seamen  ;  H 
Mldom  lasts  aboxe  an  hour  or  two,  but  it  bl(Jw8  with  extreme  Tiolenoe; 
Its  approach  is  denoted  by  the  mountains  to  the  east  being  topped  with  % 
cloud.  It  does  not  blow  horizontally,  but  is  seen  to  gush  like  torrents  of 
rain  down  the  cliasms  of  the  monntains*  varying  with  their  directions.  It 
is  not  felt  out  of  the  gulf. 

t  Or  tha  Rebel>  from  the  Telocity  «f  the  stream. 


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S88  MARITIME   GEOGEAPHY, 

HfU.  9  places  by  elevated  ridges,  which  arefordable  a  great 
part  of  the  year.  From  autumn  to  spring  it  h 
navigable  for  large  boats  twenty  leagues  from  the 
sea,  into  which  it  empties  itself  by  two  mouths. 
Six  leagues  up  it,  and  at  the  foot  of  a  very  high 
mountain,  is  situated  Antiochj  Antakia  of  the 
Turks,  once  the  rival  of  Rome,  now  a  small  but 
well  built  town,  with  large  manufactories  of  silks 
and  woollens. 

Near  the  mouth  of  the  Orontes  was  situated 
Seleucia  Pieria,  whose  ruins  attest  its  grandeur. 
It  is  now  called  Kepse,  and  a  mile  below  it  is  the 
present  port  of  Antioch,  called  Soldee  or  Stiadeti^ 
where  the  only  buildings  are  magazines  of  reeds^ 
thatched  with  date  branches,  for  the  reception  of 
the  merchandize  intended  for  Antioch. 

Latakia  (Laodicia  ad  mare)  is  a  well  built  town 
on  an  elevation  nearly  a  mile  from  the  shore»  and 
three  leagues  east  of  Cape  Ziaret  Its  inhabitants  ^e 
4,000  Turks,  2,000  Greeks,  and  a  few  Jews|  the 
port  town,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  city,  coiip- 
tains  300  houses  and  large  magazines.  The  trade 
is  considerable,  particularly  in  the  export  of  to- 
bacco,  cotton,  and  semamum  oil.  The  port  is 
formed  by  two  jetties ;  but  one  half  of  it  is  choked 
up  by  the  sand  carried  into  it  from  the  sea,  and  ia 
the  other  the  greatest  depth  is  fourteen  feet.  ITie 
English  have  a  resident  vice-consul  here.  The. 
neighbourhood  offers  many  antiquities. 

South  of  Latakia  are  Gebileh  (Gabala)  at  the  foot 
of  Mount  Cassius,  whose  base  is  washed  by  the  sea, 
and  which  of  the  Syrian  mountains  is  next'  to  Le- 

battou 


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THE  MEMTERKANEAN — SYRIA.  389 

Lebanon  m  elevation.     In  this  territory  grows  the      ^ 
superior  tobacco,  known  by.  the  name  of  Latakia. 

Kuad  Island  {Aradus)^  on  which  was  anciently 
a  great  city,  nc^  a  vestige  of  which  remains,  is 
now  a  barren  and  uninhabited  desert  without  fresh 
water,  but  near  it  a  spring  riishes  up  in  the  sea. 
Opposite  it,  on  the  main,  is  Tortosa  (Anti  Aradus). 
Here  the  country  of  Hienicia  commences^  being 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  little  river  Eleu- 
theros,  now  called  Nahr  Kibber. 

Tripoli,  Tarabohis  of  the  Arabs,  is  on  the 
Nahr  Kader,  one  mile  and  a  half  from  its  mouth, 
and  has  15,000  inhabitants.  The  surrounding 
marshes  render  it  unhealthy,  and  its  road,  though 
sheltered  by  two  isl^mds.  Rabbit  and  Pigeon,  and 
tcderably  secure  in  summer,  is  dangerous  in  win- 
ter, both  from  the  foulness  of  the  bottom  and 
the  strong  winds.  To  the  south  is  a  projecting 
promontory  named  by  the  Greeks  Tlieo  prosoparif 
Face  of  God.  Farther  south  are  Botroun  (Boims) 
and  Gobail  {Biblus)y  with  6,000  inhabitants,  its 
ancient  port  is  entirely  ruined :  both  in  the  country 
of  the  Maronites.*  Three  leagues  south  of 
Gobail,  the  Nahr  Ibrahim  {Adonis)  empties  itself: 
it  is  now  as  celebrated  for  the  wines  of  its  territory, 
as  it  was  anciently  for  Adonis  being  wounded 
on  its  banks  by  a  wild  boar. 

Beirut  (Ben/ituSy  Felix  Julioj  and  FeUx  Augusta) 

VOL.  n;  u  is 


•  The  MaroniUs  are  Christians  of  the  Catliolic  church,  who  chiefly 
iihabSt  a  district  of  Mount  Lebanon.  The  residence  of  tfa^  patriarch  is  at 
a  monastery  on  this  mountain^ 


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9Q(h  ]fAB»B«  OBocMuunrr^ 

**^  is  on  a  cape  in  the  country  of  the  Drusea^^  mxis. 
rounded  by  a  fertile  territory,  and  having  7  to% 
8»000  inhabitants.  It  exports  some  i^aw  cotton: 
and  silk  to  Egypt  Its  road  is  exposed,  but  it 
has  a  jetty  for  boats,  and  near  it  are  the  rematna; 
of  two  columns,  which  qontend  with  those  o£ 
Byas,  for  the  honour  of  standing  cm  the  9fct 
where  Jonas  was  thrown  up.  The  Nahr  Ksth, 
<^  Dog  River  (Lycus)  empties  itself  north  oi 
Beirut,  and  the  Nahr  Tamour  (^Tamfrus}  on  the 
souths 

Setde,  the  celebrated  Sioon,  placed  on  an  cJe* 
vation,  has  10  to  1S,000  inhabitants,  and  a  con*, 
siderable  trade,  beii^  the  nearest  port  to  Damaa* 
ckis.  Its  road  is  sheltered  by  a  rocky  islet,  and  it 
has  also  a  haven  for  small  dnil  within  two  jetdes. 
It  is  siqpjdied  with  water  from  the  Nahr  el  Auja» 
a  league  north.  Ciiqpe  Serfante,  a  double  pointed 
promontory,  is  three  leagues  south  of  Seyde,  and 
has  a  hght-house.  Sarland  (Sarcpta)  was  fomderly 
famous  for  its  wines  and  iron  mines. 

Sur,  7H/re  ike  Queen  tf  the  8ea/^  is  now  a  mise* 
rable  village  of  5  to  600  souls,  whose  poverty  is 
perpetuated  alike  by  the  depredations  of  the  Anbs, 
and  the  extortion  of  their  Turkish  masters.  It  is 
situated  on  a  rocky  barren  island,  joined  to  the 
main  by  a  causeway,  by  Alexander  die  Oreat» 
and  which  the  retiring  of  the  sea  has  changed  to. 
•n  isthmus.    It  has  two  ports,  both  sheltered  by 

rocks, 

#  Tjrn  WM  Ibtt&iDd  17  te  ffidoita%  wiMMe  ft  to  called  tie  4^^ 


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tOckSf  nmniBg  off  from  the  north  and  south  ''^^ 
pfHiats  of  the  island.  The  ancient  haven  is  on  the 
N*E«  and  is  an  artificial  basin^  only  150  paces  in 
diameter,  with  a  very  narrow  entrance^  The  vil* 
Jage  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  in  ruins.  This  is 
the  only  ]dace  on  the  coast  of  Syria,  where  a  good 
port  may  be  constructed,  at  a  ^stnall  expense,  by 
constructing  a  pier  on  the  rocks  already  noticed. 
A  leagup  south  (^  Tyre  is  Solomon's  well,  150 
yards  from  the  sea*  aiul  though  50  yards  deep,  the 
water  overflows  into  a  reservoir,  which  supjdies  a 
panal  that  turns  two  mills.  Near  it  is  a  lesser,  also 
overflowing  welL 

Cape  Kanco  (Album)  two  leagues  north  of 
Acre,  is  a  calcareous  rode  white  as  chalk,  near 
which  the  Made  Soui  (Lefmtei)  enq>ties  itself.  Sx. 
John  d' Acf^  (Acco  and  Ptolemms\  celebrated  fw 
the  glorious  defence  made  by  Sir  Sydney  Smith, 
and  a  &w  seamen  and  marines,  in  conjunction 
with  the  Turkish  garrison,  against  the  French 
army  commanded  by  BucHiaparte,  is  a  pretty 
large  town  of  15,000  inhabitants,  built  on  a  pro- 
montory \  it  had  formerly  a  good  pier  haven,  but 
which  now  only  admits  boats,  and  its  ;tMuis  being 
unsafe  in  winter,  in  this  season  ships  usually 
anchor  at  Haiffit,  or  Caifife  (Lycamn(i$)^  on  the 
opposite  shore  of  die  bay.  A  considerable  trade 
18  juried  4Xk  from  Acre,  and  the  tmding  imtipna 
keep  consuls  here. 

llie  Kaidafoe  Som  (Bebu)  empties 'itiii$lf  south 
xji  Acre  :  its  sand,  which  still  contains  particles  of 
glass  as  in  the  time  of  Riny,  w  take&  off  hy  the 

V  S  Venetians 


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^0^'  MARITIMB  GEOORAPHT. 

Venetians  far  their  manufactory  of  mirrors.  Fur- 
ther south  is  the  Nahr-el-Mechatte  or'  Kisonf 
which  was  the  tomb  of  the  450  prophets  of  Baal, 
and  whose  mouth  is  now  choked  with  sands. 

Cape  Carmel  is  the  south  point  of  Acre  bay, 
and  one  of  the  jpost  remarkable  headlands  of  tlfe 
Mediterranean,  having  the  form  of  a  flattened 
cone,  2,000  feet  high ;  it  is  thought  to  have  re- 
ceived its  name  from  its  ancient  fertility,  Carmel 
in  Hebrew,  signifying  Vine  of  God,  and  denot- 
ing a  fruitful  spot,  or  a  place  planted  with  fruit 
trees.  It  is  the  extreme  point  of  Mount  Carmel, 
celebrated  for  the  dwelling  of  the  prophets  Elijah 
and  Ellas,  and  of  the  numerous  anchorites  in 
the  early  ages  of  Christianit}*,  whose  grottoes  in 
the  rock  are  still  seen  ;  and  one  of  Which  serves 
as  the  chapel  to  a  Carmelite  convent,  while  ano- 
ther is  converted  into  a  Turkish  mosque. 

Sooth  of  Cape  Carmel  the  coast  presents  a 
Beries  of  rugged  mountains,  clothed  with  oaScs 
and  firs,  and  affording  retreats  to  wild  boars  and 
lynxes.  Castel  Fel^rino,  or  the  Castle  of  the 
Pilgrims,  is  fcHur  leagues  south  of  Cape  Carmel, 
4a  which  sooceeds  Kaiserea  (Qgsarea  and  Ikirrus 
StraUmis)  now  a  heap  of  marble  ruins;  and  Arsur 
{Apolonius)  a  Turkish  fortress^ 

Jaffa,  the  Joppaeiihe  Bible,  and  in  Pheniciaa 
•Japho^  the  handsome,  contains  a  thousand  inha- 
bitants, and  is  the  usual  landing  place  of  the  pil- 
grims, who  cotne  by  selst  to  visit  Jerusalem.  It  is 
airrounded  by  a  stx>ne  will,  with  severial-alteftiate 
^squares  and.jround  towers,  and  in  the  centre  h 

an 


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THE  MEDITSRBAISEAN^-STRU.  S93 

an  old  ruiiied  dtaddL  Its  ancient  pier  haven  is  phi^^- 
choked  up,  and  the  road  is  rocky  and  uneven ;  a 
greatr  surf  also  beats  cm  the  shore.  Here  is  placed 
the  scene  of  the  story  of  Perseus  and  Andromeda. 
Spakma^  the  ancient  Ascdkm^  is  a  poor  viliage  j 
it  was  formerly  celebrated  for  the  species  of  onion, 
tbe  Crreek  name  of  wUch  we  have  corrupted  to 
eschalot.  Eurtfaer  south  is  Damor,  or  Tamora, 
vhere  Sampson  tore  open  the  head  of  a  living 
lion,  and  found  it  filled  with  honey.  Gaza, 
2jazssa  of  the  inhabitants,  on  an  eminence 
amongst  date  trees  and  gardens,  is  the  residence 
of  a  Turkish  pasha,  and  defended  by  a  castle  ; 
between  it  and  Ji^  there  is  no  running  stream, 
but  fresh  water  may  be  procured  by  digging  holes 
in  the  sand  of  the  beach.  Near  Gaza  is  Mount 
Soron,  still  fertile  in  fruits  and  pasture. 


The  Ionian  islands  are  situated  m  the  Ionian  ^'••^•'«»*« 
Sea,  near  the  coasts  of  South  Albania  and  the 
Morea.  Prior  to  the  French  revolution,  they  were 
subject  to  Venice,  but  were  ceded  to  France  by 
the  treaty  of  Campo  Formio  (1797)-  In  1799 
they  were  taken  by  a  Russian  and  l\ui:ish  fleet, 
and  were  erected  into  an  independent  republic  by 
the  name  of  the  Seven  Isiands  (Cerigo  being  in^ 
duded)  and  acknowledged  as  such  by  the  different^ 
powers,  at  the  genaul  peace  of  Amiens.  During 
the  late  wars,  these  islands  have  been  occupied  by 
tile  different  belligerents  in  succession  ;  and  France 
succeeded  in  keeping  possession  of  Corfu  with  a 
strong  garrison. 

V  3  COEFU 


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99^  MABrnm  osofnuifarr« 

^  CoRTir  (SMkeria  mdCdrctfrt^*)  hai  ht  moSeni 
name  from  the  Oredc  Korgrt^s^  detaoting  the  ng* 
gedness  of  its  surface.  It  is  sepeHbted  from  tbe  coast 
of  Albania  by  the  canal  of  Corfui  fbm*  miies  broadL 
The  island  is  nearly  triaaj^ular^  about  ftxty  leases 
ih  circuit  t  the  N.  W.  point  is  Cape  SiderOi  and 
the  S.£.  Cape  'B^co.  The  produoa  of  the  iibuid^ 
in  corn  and  wine,  is  only  sofficwttt  fbr  the  ota^ 
sumption  of  its  inhabitants  for  a  few  mondia  t£ 
the  year ;  it  has  but  little  wood  except  olive  treea^ 
no  wild  animal  of  chase,  and  but  little  feathered 
game.  Its  objects  of  commerce  are  dfl  and  ialt% 
It  has  but  one  strea^n  deserving  the  naine  of  river, 
whence  it  is  called  simply  Potamo  ;  at  its  mouth 
Ulysses  is  supposed  to  have  land^,  and  a  leigcte 
N.  W.  of  Corfu  is  the  little  rivnleit  whtene  he  iact 
Nausica* 

The  population  of  Corfu  is  about  60,000  souIs» 
and  under  the  Venetians  it  afiorded  a  revenue  of 
about  ^17,000. 

Corfu,  the  chief  place,  is  on  the  east,  stroD^^ 
situated  oh  a  rocky  promontory,  aaddlsfended  by 
three  forts.  Its  population  is  15,000,  halfOneekSi 
half  Italidns.  The  road  is  oti  the  N.Ww  of  the  taym, 
and  is  sheltered  by  three  small  iskuids ;  Vido,  a 
mile  in  circtrit,  and  covered  wiffli  olive  trees  $ 
Oondilonin,  ot*  Cdioyero  (the  Monk),  a  lai;^ 
rock  with  a  ruined  church:}  San  Dimitoi,  on  which 
is  the  lazaretto. 

'    Thfe  other  plaoee  vf  any  note  on  ^bt  idand»  ara 

tha 

«  Corcjra,  the  daughter  of  ^E^pe, 


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THE  M£DliMlEXinSA)i«^IONlAN  ISLANDS.     995 

^ike  port  of  Oouin,  two  leagues  N.W.  of  Corfu,  ^^ 
it  is  a  natural  basin  surrounded  by  marshes,  and 
lience  unhealthy ;  hene  the  Venetian  gallies  used 
^  refit.  Ipso,  on  tiie  beach ;  Castrades,  a  vOlage 
on  a  co^e  south  of  Corfu ;  Leukima,  a  village  oh 
^  rivulet,  that  may  be  entered  by  boats;  Port 
Catena,  or  Salinas,  on  the  north,  a  natural  basin 
with  a  very  narrow  entrance  covered  by  an  islet, 
it  is  now  nearly  filed  up  with  SMid,  and  is  thought 
to  be  the  port  of  the  Hieaceans,  on  wiiich  was  the 
5city  of  CkrysopoUs. 

OS  the  north  ctf  Corfu  are  the  islands  Merlera 
«iid  Fana  (OAoTzo;),  which  latter  daims  the  honour 
of  being  the  iele  of  Calypso ;  it  consists  of  a  singfe 
hill,  whose  summit  is  covered  with  pines,  but  on 
the  ttiargiH  of  the  sea  is  some  meadow  land  ;  it  is 
^minhabited.  On  the  west  side  of  Corfu  are  the 
two  uninhabited  and  low  isles  of  Samondrachi. 

Paxo  {Ericma)  is  seven  miles  south  of  Corfu ;  ^*^ 
ft  is  five  miles  long  and  two  broad,  rocky  and 
generirtly  barren,  but  affords  some  oil,  wine,  and 
fTuits,  iti  smadl  ijuantity.  It  has  three  good  port^ 
of  'whigh  that  named  Porto  Gai  is  mentioned  by 
*St.  Paul  in  his  Episdes,  and  on  the  site  <rf  his 
supposed  residence  a  chapel  is  buSit  Tte  absence 
of  any  venomous  or  hideous  reptile  in  this  island, 
ts  ascribed  to  this  saint;  and  according  to  popular 
belief,  a  person  of  the  neighbouring  countries^ 
where  sudh  reptiles  are  found,  being  bitten,  has 
only  to  ascend  a  fiiH,  and  get  a  si^t  of  Paxo,  to 
1^  tnnred.    Smi  Niehdo,  tfce  only  town  of  the 

y  4  island, 


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SmuMmnu 


S96  MAaiTAfE  GSOGRAPHT. 

island,  is  on  .the  east     Anti-Paxo  a  league  south 
of  Faxo,  is  uninhabited  and  uncultivated. 

Santa  Mau&a  {Leucadia)  is  separated  fixwn  the 
coast  of  Albania  by  a  channel  but  forty  yards 
broad,  through  which  small  boats  only  can  pass, 
and  which  is  supposed  to  have  been  cut  by  the 
Corinthians,  the  island  being  anciently  a  penin- 
sula* It  is  nearly  round,  twenty  leagues  in  cir- 
cuit Cape  Ducato,  its  S.W.  point,  is  the  cele- 
brated promontory  of  Leucadia,  or  Lover* s  Leap^ 
and  certainly  a  jump  from  it  is  an  almost  infallible 
remedy  for  every  care,  being  a  perpendicular 
mountain  precipice  overhanging  the  sea,  with  a 
great  cavern  on  each  side,  and  on  the  suomiit, 
the  ruins  of  a  temple  of  Apollo. 

Santa  Maiu'a  is  composed  of  mountains,  but  is 
tolerably  fertile,  producing  corn,  wine,  oil,  fruits, 
and  good  pasture.  It  has  some  lagoons,  whi<^ 
afford  a  great  quantity  of  salt,  and  eels  of  an 
enormous  size.  Its  population  is  16,000  souls. 
Amaxicbi,  tl)e  chief  place,  is  on  a  plain  on  the 
souths  and  has  6,000  inhabitants ;  it  is  defended 
by  a  citadel.  Port  Delpene  is  also  an  excettent 
harbour.  In  1810  this  island  was  taken  ircnn  the 
French  by  the  English. 
^^fi^»^^  Cefalonia  (Cephaknia)  is  the  most  consider- 
able of  the  Ionian  islands,  having  sixty  leagues 
circuit,  and  containing  80,000  inhabitants.  Its 
coasts  are  indented  with  de^  gulfs,  and  it  is 
generally  composed  of  barren  mountsuns,  but  its 
vallies  afford  wine  and  timber  for  ship  building, 

as 


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THE  MBDITfiRRAKSAM — ^IONIAN  ISLANDS.    ^97 

as  well  as  a  great  quantity  of  currants*  for  export,  cfahnte. 
and  com  for  hdf  its  annual  consumption,  the 
deficiency  being  brought  from  the  Morea.  It  has 
few  domestic  animals  except  goats,  nor  any  of 
chase  except  some  foxes.  Two  of  its  caverns  are 
covered  with  stalactites  and  the  resort  of  innumer- 
able wild  pigeons.  It  is  the  most  commercial  of ' 
the  Ionian  islands,  having  1^  vessels  belonging 
to  it,  of  which  fifty  are  above  100  tons.  Argastoli 
the  chief  place,  is  on  the  south,  and  is  a  dirty 
little  town  unhealdiily  situated  near  the  marshes, 
but  has  a  spacious  harbour  secure:  in  all  winds. 
Two  leagues  from  it  is  the  fortress  of  Axo  on  the 
summit  of  a  hill,  intended  as  a  place  of  refuge  in 
the  descents  of  the  Corsairs.  On  the  east  coast  is 
Val  d' Alexandria,  a  port  two  leagues  in  circuit, 
surrounded  by  mountains  and  only  inhabited  by 
a  few  fishermen.  Port  Viscwdo  on  th6  north  (the 
ancient  Patwrmus)  is  small  but  secure ;  it  has  no 
inhabitants.  Cspe  Viscardo,  the  north  point  of 
the  idand,  and  Cape  C^^a  (Ermos)  the  south,  the 
latter  is  very  high  and  covered  with  timber ;  on  its 
summit  are  found  a  quantity  of  human  bones, 
which  are  accounted  for  by  supposing  that  the 
idandeiB  fled  hither  fi^r  security  in  a  descent  of 
the  Turiu,  by  whom  a  great  number  of  them 
were  massacred  on  the  spot  On  this  cape  are 
^ilso  the  mins  of  a  temple  of  Jupiter. 
'Thea&i,   (ht  little  Cefaionia,   the  celebrated  * 

Ithaca, 

•  The  citrraiit  !&  a  species  of  small  nusiD,  tot  imported  into  westers 
£iu(ppe  from  Corintb  wbeoce  ttwir  name. 


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99B  luxmuz  ^sofiftAnnr. 

ItkacOf  k  ten  leagoes  in  ciioiit  wd  bm  6fi06 
lahabiUflUts ;  drfyKigb  compoted  of  ragged  monk 
tei]i3»  it  k  well  oufatiTOted  ttd  raports  some  com 
jmd  currants.  The  priqpipal  viUige  is  on  the  port 
af  liaon  the  eist,  which  is  fit  fw  the  Uagestahqis* 
The  bfiy  of  Vatbi  on  the  N.£.  (Pharcys},  and 
£>rt  Squimwa  (i2afiboi)  osi  the  sMHtiu  have  both 
|p(K>d  aocbonige.  Tbofid  is  sorrDimded  by  xnftDjr 
little  nainhahited  idands  which  aSbrd  pastore  to 
cattle. 

Zante  {ZacjfnAosJ  k  opposite  Cape  TorneBe 
ia  the  Morea;  it  has  twenty  leagues  cirouut  aad 
#0,000  ii&abitants,  of  whom  30,000  are  of  the 
Gnek  charcfa«  and  soe  said  to  retain  more  of  the 
customs  and  di^Hisitioos  of  the  ancient  Greeks 
SSuuL  any  of  their  oountrymen,  Zante  is  atostly 
level  w«th(mt  runniiig  water  or  timber  trees,  hut 
fKoducesahandanceof  friuts,  particttbody  cinwife^ 
4bf  which  it  exports  ten  millioiis  of  pounds  annially» 
bendes  ofi^^res  and  dvn  joS;  its  (xurn  ie  only  suf- 
Aaieut  for  three  ooonths  consumptioik  Jte  wine  is 
Httteemed. 

Several  fountains  of  aninecdi  piteh  are  not  with 
un  the  islaBd,"*  m  well  as  a  sulphuDOMis  jqttii|g:aBd 
4>ther  flsnerai  waters.  On  the  north  shooe  joe 
aeveral  deep  'caiiecDB  tfie  vesort  '<^  seals,  iiae 
taking  of  whioh  for-tiieir  skinsondi^rt;  yrinripiHy 
occupies  the  people  of jaidUage on ihisimaat. 

The  tovai  of  2«iMe  is  on  the  east  aide  of  the 
Mend,  built  at  the  foot  and  on  the  side  of  a  hill» 

on 

•  H«rodoC<if  aotioeB  a  M«  of  (Ids  fubstaice  on  fhe  island.   Mcrod,  <* 


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THE  MBDITBRRAMBAK-^IOmAN  I8LAKDR.   tQ9 

atk  wbose  tomtnit  is  an  dkl  casde;  it  conUins 
19;000  iaha;bitan<s»  of  whom  SfiOO  are  Jews;  its 
port  is  capacious  but  exposed  to  tbe  H.^. ;  tiiat  of 
Cfaerri  (NMa)  on  the  west,  is  only  fit  for  small 
vessels  who  anchor  within  two  islets.  The  Euro* 
pean  nations  have  consuls  at  Zante. 

The  Stafladia  islands  (SHrophadee)  hy  off  tbe  gidf  st^gon^ 
c£  Arcadia  in  the  Morea.  The  largest  bas  sooie 
MaaM  trees,  grass,  and  firesh  wat^,  and  is  inha* 
bitedby  about  forty  Grreek  monks  in  a  fortified  mo« 
^antery,  dedicated  to  the  Redemption,  and  whidi 
contains  the  remains  of  St.  Denys,  one  of  the 
most  venerated  Greek  saints.  Hm^  monks  receive 
floMe  strangers  mtk  hospitality,  but  no  woinan  is 
ftdnikted  to  set  foot  on  their  island,  from  whick 
even  female  animals  are  excluded.  The  lesser 
i4aad  is  uninhabited,  but  pastures  some  dieep  and 
Idioiin^  in  haft^s.  The  Storophades  are  cdebraled 
by  the  poets  of  antiquity  as  tbe  residence  ^of  Ihe 
Harpies,  wbo  devoured  all  ibe  victoMis  set  befinre 
-■teMigers^*  a  fiction  probably  derived  6om  these 
islands  being  then,  as  they  are  now,  itiie  cetretfts^ 
|iiziles  afnd  robbers. 

T!ie  island  of  Cebioo  (the  celebrated  i^them) 
lis  di!ri:ant  irem  Cape  St  Angdo  in  tiie  Moroa 
(foar  ieagues.  it  is  twnanty  les^ues  in  circuit :  its 
tsMSts  pre^nt  an  niichearful  assemblage  of  con- 
^bsed  rodcy  pnecipices  rising  in  sharp  points ;  Idie 
JiMeriorisalsogeiieradly  mountainous  and  rockf, 
Iwt  the  VBjlies  aiKmicom  enough  ^  its  ^^neump- 

tion 

•  Virgil f^Dciid.    B^klll. 


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W(y  MARITIME  GEOOaAPHT. 

r^rt^p.  ticm,  besides  some  wine,  oil,  and  silk.  In  the 
middle  of  the  island,  on  the  summit  of  a  rocky  hill, 
are  found  vast  quantities  of  petrified  bones  which 
have  divided  the  opinions  of  naturalists;  some 
suj^osing  them  to  be  human  and  that  this  was 
the  ancient  burying  place  of  the  island,*  while 
others  believe  them  to  belong  to  the  seal  genus, 
vast  numbers  of  which  having  been  assembled  on 
this  spot,  perished  by  some  accident  and  that  the 
mountain  was  afterwards  raised  above  the  waters 
by  a  volcano,  of  the  ancient  existence  of  which 
there  is  evident  proof  in  thr^e  craters.!  The 
island  is  said  to  contain  porphyry,  whence  it  is 
sometimes  called  Pqrphyreus  by  the  ancients.  In 
ihe  centre  is  said  to  be  a  spring  whose  waters  are 
anti^aphrodisiac. 

'  Cerigo  abounds  in  hares,  partridges,  woodcocks 
and  above  all  tuitle-doves,  the  bird  of  Venus,  of 
whom  this  island  is  supposed  by  the  poets  to  have 
been  the  favorite  residence.  Vast  flocks  of  quails 
also  traverse  the  island  in  autumn  on  their  passage 
to  the  coast  of,  Africa. 

The  population  of  the  island  is  6,000,  who  have 
little  external  communication,  the  island  being  sel- 
dom visited  except  casually  by  ships  waiting  for  a 
wind  to  go  into  or  out  of  the  Archipelago ;  the  chief 
place,  called  Capsigli  by  the  natives,  is  on  a  hi^ 
rock  on  the  south  coast  and  has  only  an  open  cove 
ibr  ships.  San  Nicolo  (port  of  tJie  Pheniciam) 
^  pon  the  S.K,  has  a  port  with  a  mole  for  small  craft, 
r.    ,  two 

«  SplAbMfMt.  t  diernUer,  Ac. 


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THE   MEDITEREANEAN — IONIAN   ISLANDS.     301 

two  miles  from  which  is  a  grotto,  which  the  in-  ^^ 
habitants  pretend  was  the  retreat  of  St.  Sophia.  * 
Between  Cerigo  and  Candia  are  some  lesser 
isles,  of  which  Cerigolto  (jEgilia)  is  the  most 
considerable  and  is  a  great  rock  inhabited  by  some 
Greeks  and  Turks  who  have  absconded  from  their 
countries  for  crimes,  and  who  are  perfectly  inde-* 
pendent,  residing  in  huts  of  branches  of  trees,  - 
and  having  a  few  boats  in  which  they  fish  and 
visit  Cerigo,  whose  inhabitants  entrust  them  with 
3ome  cattle  to  pasture ;  this  island  is.  one  of  the 
haunts  of  the  pirates  of  the  Morea.  Ova  or  Egg 
island  (the  ancient  Epla)^  is  a  large  conical  rock 
500  feet  high,  off  the  south  coast  of  Cerigo.  Pourri, 
or  Porese,  are  two  groups  of  rocks  N.  W.  of  Cen- 
gotto,  and  the  Couffs  are  two  great  rocks  S.E.  of 
Cerigo,  having  their  name  from  a  resembUmce  to 
a  kind  of  large  baskets  used  in  the  Levant.  The 
Dargoneers  are  a  cluster  of  rocks  three  leagues 
from  the  east  end  of  Cerigo,  with  good  anchorage 
near  them. 


TURKISH  ISLANDS, 

The  opinion  of  the  ancients,  that  the  islands  of  ^chptuig%. 
the  y£gean  Sea  are  the  summits  of  the  mountains 
of  a  country  submerged  by  the  irruption  of  the 
Black  Sea,  is  strongly  supported  by  their  general 
appearance,  most  of  them  seeming  to  have  suffered 
the  ravages  of  a  violent  inundation,  which  washing 
away  the  soil  left  only  the  naked  rock.  The 
broken  shores  of  this  sea  also  corroborate  this 

supposition, 


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5GHf  ttMMrmsM  6iLoaujumf^ 

^nk»^<»0fo.  suppontioil)  as  well  as  the  positimi  and  sppextMe^ 
of  the  islands  which  cross  its  entrance  on  thtf 
aonth*  Of  these  Candia  is  the  principal }  and  it  is 
remarkable,  that  the  nordi  side  of  this  island  ia 
much  indented,  while  the  south  presents  nearly  an 
unbroken  continuity.  On  the  west  the  islands  of 
Cerigo,  Cerigotto,  and  others,  seem  to  be  the  re<» 
mains  of  the  land  that  united  Candia  to  th^ 
Morea,  while  on  the  east,  Scarpanto  and  the  other 
intermediate  islands  between  Candia  and  Rhodes, 
and  Rhodes  itself,  probably,  formed  a  connected 
land  to  Asia  Muior. 

^e  Islands  of  the  iEgean  Sea  may  be  divided 
between  Europe  and  Asia,  according  to  the  M^ 
lowing  limitation.  Suppose  a  line  drawn  firom 
the  entmnce  of  the  Dardanelles,  passing  betweea 
Lemaos  andTenedos^  between  Skyros  and  IpMUa, 
and  to  the  S.£.  between  Stanpalaia  and  Cos,  and 
between  Candia  and  Scarpanto^  then  all  the 
idands  oa  the  west  side  of  diis  line  will  bdbng  to 
Europe,  and  all  those  on  the  east  to  Asia. 

In  general,  the  lesser  isles  of  the  Archipelago 
are  masses  of  uncheerful  rock  almost  bare  of  ve- 
getation ;  and  hence  it  was,  doubtless,  that  several 
of  them  were  appropriated  as  places  of  banish- 
ment  by  the  Romans,  for  such  persons  as  thej 
wished  to  destroy  by  ennm.  Their  climate  is 
more  tatnperate  than  that  of  the  neighbouring 
continents,  winter  being  scarce  felt  even  in  the 
nost  northern,  while  the  heats  of  summer  in  the 
southern  are  temperate,  by  the  prevailing  northeiiy 
vinda  blowing  over  a  tract  of  aea.    In  l^s  laat 

season^ 


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however,  thunder  storms  are  frequent^  and 
sometimes  da  much  damage*  With  req>ect  to 
salubrity,  Chio,  Metytina,  Cos,  and  Naxos,  are 
esteemed  the  most  healthy,  while  Samos  and  Milo^ 
are  very  unhealthy. 

The  navigation  of  the  Archipelago  is  very  dan- 
gerous in  winter,  for  the  waves  having  little  roosa^ 
to  extend  themselve39  form  a  confused  sea,  rising 
to  a  great  height,  and  breaking  with  fury  against 
the  islands^ 

Candia,  called  laiti  by  the  Turks,  the  ancient 
C/retCf  is  situated  across  the  entrance  of  the  Egeaa 
Sea.  It  is  sixty  leagues  long  and  twelve  broad, 
and  is  mountainous  but  extrcsmely  fruitfuL  It  haa 
no  stream  that  deserves  the  name  of  river,  but  is^ 
abimdantlywateredby  rivulets  descending  from  the 
mountains  to  the  sea.  The  climate  is  in  generaL 
temperate  and  healthy.  In  December  and  January: 
heavy  rains  &1\  in  the  plains,  but  there  is  seld(m%> 
either  snow  or  frost.  In  the  summer  the  heats  are 
tempered  by  the  diurnal  sea  breezes  called  imbat, 
which  blow  from  eight  or  nine  o'clock  in  the 
morning  till  the  same  hours  in  the  evening,  and 
whose  directions  vary  on  the  different  coasts, 
being  firom  the  north  on  the  north  coast,  and  fronk* 
the  S.W.  on  the  south.  The  land  winds  on  the 
north  coast,  and  particularly  at  Canea,  are  dele^ 
terious,  sometimes  even  suffi>cati^g  the  persons 
exposed  to  their  first  force. 

In  vegetable  productions  Candia  is  excelled  by 
no  country  of  the  Mediterranean.    Its  mountains 
are.  covered  with  forestflb.  wd  abound  with  aro- 
matic 


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S04f  •      MARITIME   GEOGRAPHY.     . 

matic  plants,  particularly  the  dictame^  celebrated 
by  the  ancients  for  its  medicinal  virtues,  and  which 
is  said  to  be  found  only  on  this  island.  The  ri- 
vulets are  bordered  with  myrtles  and  rose  laurels, 
and  the  vallies  covered  with  orange,  lemon,  al- 
mond, olive,  and  other  fruit  trees.  The  island 
also  affords  cotton  and  silk  for  export. 

The  wild  animab  are  deer,  hares,  and  goats. 
There  is  neither  beast  of  prey  nor  venomous 
reptile,  except  a  few  snakes,  and  it  is  not  even 
certain  that  they  are  venomous. 

Crete  is  one  of  the  most  celebrated  islands  of 
the  Greek  and  Roman  mythology.  Here  Jupiter 
was  born,  near  the  source  of  the  Tortona*,  and 
on  the  banks  of  the  Therenat  he  celebrated  his 
marriage  with  Juno.     Here  also  reigned  Minos. 

Mount  IddX^  whose  summits  are  usually  covered 
with  snow  in  tluB  winter,  is  nearly  in  the  centre. of 
tlie  island.  The  Lethe^  or  river  of  oblivion,  is  an 
insignificant  stream  which  empties  itself  on  the 
south  coast,  on  which  is  also  the  famous  la- 
byrinth. 

The  little  isles  Leucas,  on  the  north  coast, 
are  celebrated  for  the  trial  of  skill  in  music  be- 
tween the  Muses  and  the  Syrens;  and  on  the 
same  coast  is  the  river  Platamona§,  in  which, 
while  Europa  bathed,  the  nymphs  danced  round 
and  sang  hymns  to  love. 

Ade. 

•         *  In  tbe  Gulf  of  Caodia,  otie  league  west  of  the  town. 
^  A  league  and  half  east  of  Caudia. 
X  Called  Psitoriti  by  the  Turks. 
*     f  Three  leagvea  titsi  of  Cases. 


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THE  MEDITERRANEAN — TURKISH   ISLANDS,   bOS 

A  detailed  history  of  Candia  does  -not  come  c^dc^, 
within  the  limits  of  this  work,  but  a  sketch  of  its 
revolutions  since  the  fall  of  the  Roman  em^re 
may  not  be  misplaced.  On  the  division  of  the 
empire  this  island  remained  attached  to  that  of 
the  east,  and  Baldwin,  Count  of  Flanders,  when 
seated  on  the  throne  of  Constantinople,  granted  it 
to  Boniface,  Marquis  of  Montserrat,  as  a  reward 
or  payment  for  the  assistance  he  had  afforded 
him.  Boniface  sold  it  to  the  Venetians  in  1194, 
who  gave  it  the  name  of  Candia,  fiomKhan-danf  a 
fortress  built  on  it  by  <the  Arabs,  wlio  sometime 
possessed  the  island.  The  Venetians  retained  the 
island  till  I67O,  when  the  Turks,  after  twenty- 
five  years  war,  in  which  the  city  of  Candia  sus- 
tained thirty-six  assaults,  got  possession  of  the 
whole  island,  except  the  fortresses  of  Grabusa^ 
Suda,  and  Spinalonga,  which  by  treaty  remained 
to  the  Venetians,  but  of  which  they  were  suc-^ 
cessively  deprived,  and  the  whole  island  has  beeil 
under  iJie  dominion  of  the  Porte  since  1715,  and 
Is  governed  by  a  Turkish  Begliar  Bey  and  twq 
Fisishas.  ^ 

TTie  population  of  the  island  was,  according  to 
Savary,  in  I775,  200,000  Turks,  150,000  Greeks, 
and  200  Jews  j  and  the  military  force  of  the 
island  in  the  same  year  was  15,000  men.  In 
1800  the  population  was  reduced  to  100,000 
Turks  and  nearly  the  same  number  of  Greeks. 
Under  the  despotic  and  restrictive  government  of 
the  Ottomans,  the  commerce  of  Candia  has  dwin- 
dled to.  insignificance,  the  whole_  value  <rf  the 
-   VOL.  II.  X  exports 


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806  MAttTTTME  QEOaKAPHT. 

eyports  in  1775  being  only  ^124^000,  of  which 
oil  for  ^90,000 ;  besides  this  article  the  exporti 
are  soapi  honey,  wax,  cheese,  raisins,  almoods* 
walnuts  and  chesiluts,  caroube,  flax  seed,  liqux)rice 
root,  and  whetstones.  The  port  of  Candia  is 
alone  permitted  to  export  these  objects,  in  order 
to  prevent  their  being  smuggled  out  of  the  island 
#ithout  paying  the  duties.  This  restriction 
greatly  increases  their  price,  from  the  expense  of 
tranqpwting  them  by  land  from  all  parts  of  the 
island.  The  oil  and  wax  are  chiefly  taken  off  by 
the  French  of  Marseilles;  the  soap  and  cheese 
are  sent  to  Constantinofde,  and  the  ports  of  Asia 
Minor ;  the  honey  to  Constantinople  and  Egypt ; 
the  raisins,  which  are  of  a  very  inferior  quality,  to 
Syria  and  £gypt»  whither  are  also  chiefly  sent  the 
Other  firuits ;  the  flax  seed  to  Italy. 

The  duties  on  export  are  two  and  a  half  per 
cent,  to  Turks  and  Greeks,  subjects  of  the  Porte; 
three  per  cent  to  Europeans,  and  five  per  cent  to 
J^ws  and  Armeniaos. 

The  north  coast  of  Candia  is,  as  we  have 
before  observed,  indented  by  gulfs,  which  i^mu 
9om6  good  ports.  It  isjc^served  on  this  coast, 
that  with  the  wind  blowiia^  strong  from  the  wes^ 
£ov  any  coutinuaace,  the  waters  rise  two  ^t 
above  their  connnon  level ;  and,  with  Ijie  wiml 
from  the  north  or  east,  they  fall  two  ^t  below 
that  level. 

Commencing  at  the  N.W.  pwit  of  the  ialaadt 
and  prolonging  the  north  coast,  we  meet  in  suoces- 
stoQ  with  the  port  of  Grabufia^  fonned  by  three 

small 


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THK   MEDITSRIUNBAN— TURKISH   ISLANDS.   SOf 

Kmdll  islaodS)  off  the  N.W.  point  of  the  iiland, 
Cape  Buta  (Psacum) :  it  is  fit  for  the  largest  ve*. 
selsj  and  is  protected  by  the  fortress  of  Grabuea, 
on  the  largest  of  the  islands.  The  Gulf  of  Ki»- 
mmos  has  for  limits  Cape  Spada  (Dkhfnm^m)  on 
Ihe  east,  and  CApe  Busa  <hi  the  west*  It  has  no 
good  anchorage.  At  its  head  it  the  village  of 
Kismmos,  and  an  old  castle,  nearly  in  ruins.  The 
city  of  Aptera  was  near  this  Tillage. 

The  Gblf  of  Canea  is  between  Cape  4^da,  oil 
tiie  wesii;  and  Caipe  Maleca  on  the  east :  tlie  latter 
is  a  peninsular  promontory  of  several  leagues  cir« 
emit,  and  presents  a  shore  of  perpendicular  rocks. 
The  town  of  Canea  (^fl/motf)^  at  the  head  of  the  gulf, 
has  7,0(!ll(>  inhabitants,  is  well  built,  the  streets 
ftrait,  and  fiirnished  with  fduntains.  The  for* 
tifidations  are  a  wall  and  wfet  ditch,  with  some 
batteries  in  ^ood  order.  The  port  is  formed  by  a 
pier,  and  can  only  receive  nine  or  ten  vessels  of 
100  tons ;  lai-ger  ones  being  obliged  to  anchor  in 
the  roads,  entirely  exposed  to  the  north.  The 
Venetians  constructed  here  a  vaulted  arsenal, 
large  enough  to  build  a  ship  of  the  line  within  it, 
mder  cover,  which  is  now  entirely  in  ruitts.  Be^ 
fof  e  Iche  privilege  of  exportation  was  confined  to 
Cabdca,  a  oonsiderable  number  of  Frem^h  vessels 
visited  this  port  for  oil,  andlVanee  had  a  resident 
cosMiil  here.  The  ancient  Ct/dmiia  is  at  present  in 
ruins,  near  the  village  of  Acladia*  A  lea£;ue  and 
a  h^if  west  of  Canea  k  the  little  rocky  island 
St.  Theodore,  dn  which  were  focmeriy  two  forts, 

X  2  not 


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dOS  MARITIMB  GEOGRAPHY. 

not  a  Stone  g£  which  remains.  Between  this  islafii 
jmd  Canea  is  a  little  sandy  island,  on  which  the 
Venetians  had  a  lazaret.  These  two  islands  are 
jthe  ancient  Leucas. 

The  Gulf  of  Suda  (Jmp?umak)  is  between  Cape 
Maleca  on  tlie  west,  and  Cape  Trepano  {Drepa- 
num}  on  the  east :  it  runs  in  two  leagues,  and 
bsLS  good  anchorage.  Near  the  n<Hth  shore  are 
two  small  islands,  on  the  west  of  which  is  a  castle 
and  several  batteries,  cut  in  the  solid  rock  in  tiers, 
and  which  command  the  entrance  of  the  gulf, 
but  are  themselves  commanded  by  the  main  land^ 
)vhich  is  only  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant.  On 
this  island  is  also  a  Adllage  of  150  houses^  and  the 
largest  vessels  may  lay  dose  to  it  all  round. 
Above  this  island  the  gulf  is  one-third  of  a 
league  wide,  and  the  depth  in  the  middle  is  150 
feet ;  but  towards  its  head  vessels  again  find  an- 
'cboi*agp  in  sixteen  fathoms  and  under,  cldse  to  the 
sliore. 

.  Reti^no  (Rhitht/imiaJ,  five  leagues  east  of  the 
Gulf  of  Suda,  has  5,000  to  6,000  inhabitants^  ^d 
^  small  port,  nearly  choked  up.  The  town  is  well 
built,  and  defended  by  a  citadel,  on  a  rock,  pro- 
jecting into  die  9ea,  but  whidi  is  commanded  by 
a  hill  behind  it.  The  French  formerly  visited  this 
port  for  oil,  and  had  a  vice-consul  here. 

The  Gulf  of  Candia  is  a  great  bay,  -  between 
Cape  Sassoxo  (Dhm)  on  the  west,  and  Cape  St* 
J<^  (Zephjfrium)  on  the  east.  Candia,  the  chief 
town  of  the  island,  ia  towards  the  west  ^de  of  the 

gulf; 


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THE  MEDITEfiRA^AN— TURKISH   ISLANDS.   309 

gfMi  it  contains  10,000  Turks,  2,000  to  8,000 
Greeks,  and  a  few  Jews.  It  is  defended  by  a 
wall,  a  wet  ditch,  and  some  outworks.  The  port 
is  formed  by  a  strong  pier,  built  on  a  ledge  of 
rocks,  which  lay  parallel  to  the  shore,  but  from 
the  negligence  of  the  Turks  is  daily  filling  up, 
and  can  now  only  receive  a  dozen  vessels  of  100 
tons*  The  isle  o£  Dia,  or  Standia  (Dium)^  is  at 
the  entrance  of  the  gulf,  three  leagues  north  of 
the  town ;  it  is  four  miles  long,  two  broad,  very 
high,  rocky,  barren,  and  uninhabited.  On  its 
south  side  are  three  harbours,  of  which  the  mid- 
dle, named  Port  de  la  Madona,  is  the  best ;  and 
here  rships,  which  cannot  enter  the  port  of  Candia, 
discharge  their  cargoes  into  boats.  On  the  east 
end  of  the  island  is  also  a  road  sheltered  from 
N.W.  to  south ;  and  a  musket-shot  from  this  end 
IS:  a  high  rock. 

The  Gulf  of  Spina  Longa  is  between  Cape  St 
John  on  the  west,  and  Cape  Sidera,  the  N.E; 
point  of  the  island,  on  the  east.^  Spina  Longa, 
towards  the  west,  has  a  good  port,  sheltered  on  the 
N.E.  and  E.  by  an  island.  Mirabel,  east  of  Spina 
Xjonga,  is  a  small  town  of  1,500  inhabitants,  and 
itfl  ro^  is  sheltered  by  two  small  islands.  Settia, 
cm  the  S.E.  is  surrounded  by  fortifications  in^^ 
ruins.  Its  road  is  sheltered  by  three  islands^ 
called  the  Janissaries  {Diontfsides),  a  league  to  the. 
Borth.. 

t  At  the  east  end  of  the  island  is  a  gulf,  between 
Cape  Sidera  (Itaricum)  and  Cape  Solomon  (S(u 
monmnjy  in  which  are  Mareno  and  Castro,  and 

X  3  between 


Cndi^, 


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between  Cape  Solomon  and  Cape  Xacro  (u^ttpefc^ 
the  S.E.  point  of  the  island,  i^  Porto  Scbini. 

On  the  south  coast  of  the  island  the  only  plaoM 
worthy  of  notice  are  Girapetra  {Hyera  Pitkna), 
a  village  whose  road  is  entirely  exposed  to  the 
south  and  east ;  Porto  Trinede,  Spachia,  a  village 
and  little  fort,  and  Meletti.  OS  this  coast  are 
some  rocky  isles,  viz.  the  two  Christiana  islands 
{Cknfsd)y  west  of  Cape  Xacro,  with  a  safe  passage 
between  them  and  the  main  \  the  Gaidronisi,  fiiff. 
therwest;,  the  Paxamedes  and  the  Gozes  (CZoti* 
dos)^  a  cluster  of  small  islands  SJ).  of  the  S.W. 
point  of  Candia. 

Cape  Crio  (Crm-Metopkon  *)  is  the  S.W.  pmni 
of  the  island.  North  of  it  is  the  island  of  St 
Venerando. 
scanmm.  Scarp ANTO  (Carpathm),  midway  between  Cam* 
dia  and  Rhodes,  is  nine  leagues  long  and  three 
broad,  and  rises  in  several  high  mountains,  which 
contain  iron  and  marble.  It  possesses  abundance 
of  cattle  and  garne^  and  is  inhabited  entirely  by 
Greeks. 

The  other  islands  between  Candia  and  Rhodes 
are  Ova,  or  Egg  island,  a  large  barren  rock*  north 
of  Cape  St.  John  in  Candia,  Piana,  Placa,  and 
the  Two  Brothers,  north  of  the.  east  point  of 
Candia.  Goxo  (Casus),  a  league  S.W.  of  Scor^ 
pento,  is  three  leagues  in  circuit,  and,  thongh 
rocky,  produces  some  wine  and  com.  On  its 
,  north 

•  Crh,  rain,  iletophon,  forehe«b  sigoiiyiiig  the  proiqostonr  of 


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THE  MEDITfitlUinUN-^tXJllKISH  ISLANDS.      911 

north  is.  a  bay  sheltered  by  three  islets,  but  the 
landing  is  only  practicable  at  one  spot,  where  the 
inhabitants  have  dog  a  little  basin  to  receive 
boats.  The  principal  village  is  on  this  bay,  and 
has  100  houses,  occupied  by  Greek  fishermen. 
There  is  here  a  spring  of  good  water ;  but  more 
dependence  is  |daced  on  rain  water  preserved  in 
cisterns.  Stazidif  is  a  little  island  west  of  the 
north  end  of  Scarpanto. 

V  The  Sclents  divided  the  principal  islands  of 
the  Archipelago  into  the  Cj/ckuks  and  Sporades. 
The  former  received  their  name  from  lying  in  a 
circle  round  Delos,  and  belong  to  Europe :  the 
latter,  whose  name  signifies  dispersed,  form  a  chain 
along  the  coast  of  Asia  Minor,  and  belong  to  that 
continent. 

The  Cycladeb  comprehend  about  sixty  islands,  cgcui^ 
joany  of  which  are  mere  rocks,  and  few  only  of 
any  considerati(H).  We  have  already  noticed  the 
general  appearance  gC  these  islands,  as  mountaitt- 
ood  and  rocky ;  few  of  them  have  an^  wood,  but 
aoost  of  them  are  fertile,  p^ticularly  in  fruits. 

MiLO  (Melos)^  the  southernmost,  is  eighteen 
leagues  in  circuit,  and  covered  with  volcanic 
matter,  having  a  volcano  still  burning.  Its  hiUs 
afford  iron,  aluoi,  and  sulphur:  it  has  many  mine* 
ral  iqarings,  and,  though  without  running  water,  is  ^ 

fertile.  It  also  sflbrda  a  quantity  of  salt  to  conu 
merce.  The  pspulatson-  of  thie  khaad  hasi  de- 
creased in  an  extraMdhiary  maimer,  withiof  the 
last  cestuty.  In  VTOd  Xoumi^rt  estiduited  the 
inbabf«a»U  at  30,000;.  in  177^  Skwary  found  tkem 

X  4  reduced 


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*31S  MABITIM£  GBOGRAPHY. 

^--  reduced  to  700;  and  in  1800  their  number  was 
only  500.  The  plague,  the  general  unhealthiness 
of  the  island,  from  neglecting  to  drain  the  marshes 
formed  by  the  rains,  and  the  tyranny  of  the 
Turkish  government,  are  assigned  as  the  causes  of 
4  '  -  this  d^jpopulation. 

On  the  N.W.  side  of  the  island  is  a  deepgul^ 
forming  several  branches,  and  ending  in  a  basin 
with  capacity  and  depth  for  the  largest  fleets ;  it 
has  some  small  islands  at  its  entrance.  The  town 
is  situated  on  a  high  rock,  and  is  approached  by 
one  narrow  road  only.  Anti-Milo  is  a  desert 
island,  two  miles  west  of  Milo ;  as  are  the  Combs, 
two  islets  S.E.  of  the  same  island,  and  Faxmade 
off  the  S.W. 

Argentera  (Cimolus)  is  separated  from  the 
N.E.  side  of  Milo  by  a  channel  one  mile  wide. 
It  is  two  leagues  long,  one  league  and  a  half  broad, 
and  has  only  200  inhabitants,  chiefly  seamen :  like 
Milo,,  it  is  entirely  volcanic,  and  without  trees,  but 
produces  corn,  some  cotton,  and  grass*  It  has  no 
running  water  ;  and  for  this  object  it  depends  on 
the  rain  water  preserved  in  cisterns,  as  well  as  on 
the  island  of  Milo.  Argentera  affords  the  sub- 
stance called  cimolian  earth,  which  is  a  decomposi- 
tion of  porphyry  by  subterraneous  fire.  On  the 
east  side  of  the  island  is  a  good  road,  sheltered  by 
the  little  island  Polino  (Pofycegos),  or  the  Burnt 
Island,  which  is  one  mile  and  a  half  distant,  nine 
miles  in  circuit,  and  uninhabited.  Moligo  is 
an  islet  close  to  the  S.E.  end  of  Argentera ;  and 
St.  George  another  islet,  soutli  of  the  sam^  point, 

Siphanto 


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THB  MEDITSftaANBAK— -TURKiSH.  ISLANpS.      8iS 

SiPHANTo  {Syphnus)  is  ten  leagues  long  |uid  ^9^- 
,two  broad.  Its  mountains  contain  gold,  silver, 
iron,  lead,  loadstone,  and  marble.  It  produces 
emu  for  its  consumption,  silk,  cotton,  honey,  and 
fruits.  It  has  6,000  inhabitants  in  five  villages, 
and  four  good  ports.  The  ancient  Syphnians 
were  infamous  for  their  debaucheries. 

^Skr^o  (Seripfms),  four  leagues  long  and  two 
broad,  is  mountainous  and  rocky,  affording  iron 
and  loadstone.  Under  the  Romans  it  was  a  place 
of  banishment ;  and  at  present  is  only  noted  for 
its  oni(His. 

Serpho-Paulo,  N.E.  of  Serpho,  Strongyle,  S.W. 
Pelori  east,  and  Pipari,  are  barren  islets  round 
Serpho. 

Thermia  (Ct/thnus)  is  four  leagues  long  and  two 
ibroad,  with  6,000  inhabitants,  is  well  cultivated, 
producing  wine,  barley,  and  fruits,  besides  silk, 
honey,  wax,  and  wool ;  it  abounds  in  partridges, 
and  has  mineral  springs,  whence  its  name. 

PoucA^DRO  (Pfiolegandrus)  is  seven  leagues 
in  circuit,  very  rocky,  thinly  inhabited,  and  has 
HO  good  port,  but  affords  anchorage  in  a  small 
cove  on  the  S.£.  It  has  a  little  town  encloted 
with  walls  near  a  vast  perpendicular  rock.  Its 
vines  afford  good  wine,  and  it  produces  a  little 
com  and  cotton ;  it  abounds  in  game,  and  is  the 
common  rendezvous  of  migratory  birds  on  their 
passage. 

SniKO  (Sicinus)  is  eight  leagues  in  ckcuit,  and 
has  but  300  inhabitants,  who  cultivate  some  barley, 
cotton,  grapes,  and  other  fruits.    It  has  no  port, 

and 


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^;cii^«  imd  the  boats  which  visit  it  are  hauled  up0&  the 
beach.  Panagia  and  Cardic^issia  (Lagusa%  two 
desert  islands  between  Policandro  and  Sikono. 

Santorin,  properly  SAiNT*Eann,  (CaUsta  and 
Tkera)j  is  about  three  leagues  long,  and  has  the 
shape  of  a  horse-shoe^  the  concave  side  facing  the 
N.W.  The  whole  island  is  of  volcanic  creation, 
and  is  covered  with  pumice  stooe*  It  has  but 
one  qmng,  and  the  inhabitantSi  who  amount  to 
1*,000  all  Greeks,  depend  on  their  cisterns  for 
water.  It  exports  a  considerable  quantity  of 
wine,  chiefly  to  the  Russian  ports  of  the  Black 
Sea,  and  knit  cotton  stockings  and  n^ht  caps 
to  Italy. 

The  concave  side  of  the  island,  or  bay  4if  SaB- 
torin,  is  sheltered  by  the  islands  Therasia  and 
Asproponisi,  or  White  Island.      The  fcMiner  is 
nearest  to  the  west  point  of  the  bay,  and  is  inha- 
bited ;  the  latter  is  a  desert  rock.    In  the  middle 
of  the  bay  are  three  volcanic  islets,  called  Caymani^ 
and  individually  old  Caymani  or  Hieri,  (the  west- 
em  and  krgest).  New  Caymani,  the  middle,  and 
Little  Caymani  the  east,  which  is  but  a  great  rock; 
These  three  islands  have  be^i  formed  by  vcdcanic 
eruptions,  since  the  memory  of  history,  and  the 
New  Caymani  only  in  VJ&f.    The  bay  has,  in 
some  parts,  a  depth  of  350  fathoms,  and  to  die 
\Krest  of  the  Caymani,  where  the  depth  is  fifteea 
and  twenty  fathoms,  the  bottom  is  rock.    The 
tmfy  good  anchorage  ibr  a   ship    of  bordeft  is 
opposite  the  south  end  of  Old  Caymani^  in  fifteen 
und  twenty  fathoms,  with  a  fort  to  the  idiore. 
'  Almost 


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THE  MSDITSt&AiaUX'^-TOXKItB  ISLANDS*     915 

Almost  the  whole  shores  of  this  hmy  tik  perptn- 
dicuUrly  from  the  sea  to  the  height  of  300  yards, 
and  are  composed  of  vcdcamc  matters.  The  only 
landii^  places  are  at  Aponomeria,  near  the  ncnrth 
point,  and  at  Phtra^  near  the  middle  of  the  bay, 
from  whence  the  produce  of  the  island  is  exported : 
here  ffinall  vessels  make  fast  to  the  shore.  Scaiuxs 
the  chief  place,  is  on  the  N.E.  part  of  the  bay  on 
a  prelecting  rock.  San  Nicholo,  also  in  this  boy^ 
has  a  small  haven  for  boats.  S.  W.  of  Simtorin  are 
the  two  Christiani  Islets. 

Nio  (Jos)  is  twelve  leagues  in  circuit,  rocky 
and  mountainous,  with  a  granitic  base  and  calca- 
reous summits.  The  inhabitants  (4sOOO)  are  diiedy 
cultivators,  and  by  their  industry  render  the  soil, 
naturally  barren^  productive;  the  quantity  of 
{X>rn  being  sufficient  for  consumption,  besides 
cotton,  which  is  manufactured  in  the  idand  into 
stockings  and  caps  and  exported  to  Italy.  A  con* 
siderable  quantity  of  oil  is  also  exported,  as  weD 
as  some  wax  and  honey.  The  island  also  pastures 
400  horned  cattle,  6,000  goats,  and  300  sheq). 
Its  chief  town  and  port  on  the  S.  W.  are  celebrated 
for  the  death  of  Homer. 

Naxia  (Naxoi)  is  the  largest,  and  thon^  sur- 
rounded by  melancholy  rodcs  towards  the  sea, 
whidi  seciEi  to  interdict  alt  access  to  it,  it  is  one 
Qf  the  moBt  fertile  of  tifae  Cyclades,  of  which  it  m 
called  the  Queen.  It  is  diversified  with.  hiHs^ 
vaUtes^  aid  plains,  ia^seU  wooded  and  watered. 
It  contains  gfaaste^  aetpeniine,  and  mavUes:  bt^ 
IMttaoJ^,  fniils,  soma  cfaeeu^  and  emeiy,  of  wlridl 

thera 


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816  '     MARITIlfE  OBOGBArar/ 

tb»e  is  a  mine  on  the  west  coast,  Its  wine  was 
compared  by  the  ancients  to  nectar.  The  popa« 
btion  is  18,000,  all  Greeks,  of  whom  2,000  inhabit 
the  only  town,  which  is  on  the  west*  Its  port  had 
jfonneriy  a  jetty,  level  with  the  water,  but  which 
is  now  several  feet  below  its  sur&ce.  It  still, 
however,  receives  small  craft.  North  of  the  town 
is  the  fountain  of  Ariadne,  a  scanty  rill,  and  oppo- 
site it  an  islet,  on  which  is  a  marble  tower,  and 
other  ruins  of  marble  and  granite,  supposed  to 
belong  to  a  temple  of  Bacchus,  who,  according  tA 
the  mythology,  was  born  on  this  island.  N. W. 
c^  Naxia  is  the  little  desert  island  Ractia,  and  on 
the  N.E.  Stenosa. 

ParoS)  two  leagues  west  of  Naxia,  ten  miles 
long  and  six  broad,  is  celebrated  for  its  white 
marble.  It  is  inhabited  by  about  S,000  Greeks^ 
the  poorest  of  the  Archipelago,  their  exports  being 
confined  to  a  small  quantity  of  cotton.  Naussa; 
OB  the  north  side,  is  one  of  the  best  ports  among 
the  Cyclades,  but  is  unhealthy,  from  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  marshes.  St.  Mary's,  on  the  east,  i9 
also  a  large  and  safe  port,  being  sheltered  by  islets 
to^  the  north  and  south.  The  port  of  Marma  is 
also  near  the  middle  of  the  east  side.  Trio,  near 
the  S.E.  point,  is  sheltered  by  some  islets  on  th6 
north,  but  exppsed  to  the  east :  here  the  Turkish' 
gpllies  rendezvous  in  their  smnual  vi^t  to  the 
^chipelago. 

Ante-Paro6  (Oliaroi)^  close  to  Faros  on  the  west; 
i»  a  solid  rock  of  marble,  five  leagues  in  circuit :  its 
jvodttctioos  are  confined  to  some  poor  wine  aiM) 

barley. 


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THE  MEDITEmRAHBAN-^Tim&ISff  ISLANDS.  S17 

jbarley.  It  has  a  celebrated  grotto,  100  yards  in 
Jeagth  ami  eighty  high,  covered  with  stalactites. 
jStringella  and  Spolica  are  barren  islets  west  of 
Paros. 

Amorgo  {Amorgos)  is  twelve  leagues  in  circuit, 
generally  mountainous  and  rocky,  but  in  the  valr 
Ues  are  produced  corn,  wine,  and  c^ves.  The 
,  Greeks  o(  this  island  are  amongst  the  poorest  and 
most  ignorant  of  the  Archipelago,  but  their  wo* 
aaen  are  celebrated  fcr  their  charms.  The  Greek 
poot  Simonides  received  his  birth  here. 

The  east  coast  of  the  island  is  steep  and  with* 
out  ports ;  but  on  the  west  it  has  two,  Port  St» 
Anna,  the  northern,  and  Vachi,  the  southern. 
.  Amoi^go-Paulo  (Macia)^  south  of  Amorgo,  Coss** 
missa,  and  other  small  islands  surround  Amorgo  f 
they  are  uninhabited,  but  afiord  some  pasture 
for  sheep.  Levita  (Lebinthus)  is  a  great  rock  be- 
tween Amorgo  and  the  i^orades. 

Nanfio  (Armphe)  is  six  leagues  in  circuity  and 
according  to  the  ancient  poets,,  rose  suddenly 
above  the  waves,  to  afford  refuge  to  the  Argonauts 
when  assailed. by  a  storm  on  their  return  from 
Coldbis ;  in  memory  of  this  event  a  temple,  was 
erected  to  Apollo,  the  vestiges  of  which  ixe  still 
to  be  seen  on  the  south  coast,  near  a  fri^riful 
rock,  on  whose  summit  is  a  chapel  of  the  Virgin*^ 
The  forests,  which  according  to  some  gave. this* 
i^ndits  ancient  na^e  (darky  shady\  no  longer' 
€ixi8t,  its  rocky  mountains  being,l»u:ren  andnaked;i 
imr  are.  tbe^  pkins much,  jimce:.  fhiitf^i,  a.Uttlcu 
t  ;  whea^ 


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SIS  MAamHB  OBOOftlFUT^ 

w^eat  and  oil  being  the  ^ole  of  its  produce.  II 
fiuaueiiy  abounded  so  in  partiidges,  that  about 
Easter  their  eggs  were  sought  for,  in  order  to  pre* 
vent  their  multiplication,  and  the  consequent 
destruction  of  corn.  The  inhabitants  are  mise- 
iBbiy  poor,  and  do  not  exceed  1,000,  chiefly  col* 
lected  in  a  little  town  on  the  south,  before  which 
k  the  islet  Nanfio-Paulo,  shdtering  a  road,  tiie 
island  having  no  other  port 

Stasipalijl  (Astt^kea)  is  twenty  leagues  in  c^* 
cuit,  little  elevated,  badly  watered,  barren^  and 
thinly  inhabited.  It  has  a  port  on  the  norA  and 
another  on  the  south. 

The  small  islands,  Szenan  on  the  south,  St 
John  on  the  S.E.9  and  others,  are  near  the  coasts 
of  Stanpalia. 

ZiA  (Ceos)  is  four  leagues  east  of  Cape  Colonni 
io  theMorea:  it  is  six  lea^^es  Icmg  and  three 
broad,  is  poorly  cultivated,  but  exports  some  silk 
and  a  considerable  quantity  of  ^Unnts.  The 
port  is  on  the  N.  W.  and  is  a  large  basin  surrounded 
by  mountains  and  rocky  shores,  on  whidi  some 
dispels  and  the  ruins  of  magazines  are  the  only 
bniidhigs.  The  town  is  a  league  inland  from  the 
port  and  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Carthcea. 

Stba  {Sgros)  is  twelve  leagues  in  circuit,  with 
4,000  inhabitants,  chiefly  Greeks  of  the  Latin 
dnirch.  It  is  mcHintainous,  without  wood^  but 
well  watered  and  cidtivated,  producing  wheat, 
barley,  cotton^  oil,  and  wine.  The  diief  place  is 
en  the  west,  at  the  tc^  of  a  steqp  kill,,  and  aesr 

the 


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THE  MEDITBRRANfiAH-^TUtKlSH  ISLANDS*  319 

the  ruiiis  ef  the  ancient  AcropoUs.    Its  port  re-    **£J^ 
ceives  the  largest  ships.    Jura  {Gyaros)  is  barren 
and  almost  uninhabited. 

The  celebrated  Delos  are  two  insignificant  and 
iminhabiied  rodcs,  called  Sedilli  by  the  Turks. 
MhcneMf  the  largest,  is  but  twa  leagues  in  circuit^: 
and  sdrfres  the  people  of  Myconi  to  pasture  their 
dieep.  Little  Delos  still  retains  some  superb  ruins 
of  the  temples  of  Apollo  and  Diana,  c£  whom  it 
was  the  birth  place.  Between  Syra  and  Delos  h 
tke  little  klet  Lanete,  and  between  the  two 
Delos*  tiie  Great  and  Little  Rematiari  (Hecate)^ 

Myconi  {Myconis)  is  ten  leagues  in  circuit, 
mountainous,  and  little  productive,  exporting* 
only  some  barky  and  wine^  It  has  3,000  inhabn 
tants^  who  are  chiefly  seamen  employed  in  con^^ 
veying  the  timber  of  Mount  Athos  to  Egypt^  it 
has  no  water  but  what  is  preserved  in  dsterm: 
from  rain,  nor  has  it  any  port,  and  its  roads  ara 
only  safe  in  certain  winds.  East  a£  Mycobi  ia 
the  litde  island  Tragonisi  {He-goai)  which  pas* 
tures  some  sheep ;  and  farther  south  the  twoSjpa^ 
dias,  barren  rocks. 

TiNO  (Opkissa,  Hffdrusd,  and  TeMs)  is  afat 
feagues  long  and  three  broad.  It  is  moutainous 
and  rugged,  particularly  on  the  north  coast,  ^ieh 
presents  perpendicular  rocky  cliifs.  The  west 
part,  which  is  low,  is  by  far  the  most  fertile,  and 
has  two  rivers  of  some  size,  which  have  thehr 
•Durces  near  the  centra  of  the  island,  and  after 
smiting  their  streams,  fSdl  into  the  Bay  of  Koiym- 
hrttho,  at  the  N.W.  end  <£  the  island.      Thasel 

rivers 


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99S^  .  MAUmUE  OEOGRArar. 

Of^.  rivers  overiiow^thefr  banks,  and  form  marshes  that 
fender  this  part  of  the  island  unhealthy.  It  pro- 
duces barley  and  wheat  for  five  months*  consump^ 
tion.  The  wild  animals  are  jackals  and  hares ; 
the  domestic  ones  a  few  horses,  some  good  asses, 
9nd  mules  and  hogs.  The  inhabitants  rmse  nei-. 
ther  turkeys,  geese,  nor  ducks,  and  but  few  fowls; 
tiie  sea  round  the  island  is  sc-antily  supplied  with 
fish,  but  aflS^rds  coral.  The  population  of  the 
island  is  from  twenty-three  to  25,000,  all  Crteeks^ 
fefoth  of  the  Greek  and  Latin  churches  :  they 
bear  the  best  characters  amongst  their  country- 
ipen  for  honesty,  courage,  and  industry.  A  great 
number  of  them  are  found  at  Copstantinc^le, 
where  these  qualities  cause  them  to  be  preferred 
aft  domestics :  they  also  enter  as  seamen  on  (loard 
foreign  vessels.  The  island  is  governed  by  ma- 
gistrates chosen  by  the  inhabitants,  has  no 
Torkiab  officers,  ^d  only  pays  a  tribute  of 
J£S^500  to  the  Porte.  The  exports  consist  of 
about  15,000 lb.  of  silk,  a  little  wine,  somefhiits» 
bdsid^  marble  to  Constantinople,  Smyrna,  &c* 

The  island  has  three  towns  ,and  sixty-fiw , vil- 
If^J^s  or  hamlets.  The  former  ,are  II  Borgo,  si- 
tioat^d  on  the  highest  point  of  the  island,  840  pics 
above  the  sea.  It  was  formerly  fortified,  but  the 
wofks'have  been  destroyed  by  the  Turks,  and  the 
town,  almost  abandoned,  the  inhabitants  having 
removed  to  a  village  half  a  league  below  it,  called 
Exom-borgos.  San  Nicolo,  on  the  east  side  of  a 
bay  and  on  the  south  side  of  the  island,  is  now 
^e  chief  town,  the  residence  jof  the  Greek  arch^ 

bishop, 


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TlJtE  MEDlMRkAN^A)!— TURfeiStf  ISLANDS.    821 

bishop,  the  European  consuls,  &c.  The  streets  c,^^ 
are  narrow  and  crooked,  but  the  houses  well  built. 
This  bay,  which  is  exposed  to  the  S.E.,  is  the  only 
place  of  the  island  visited  by  foreign  vessels,  and 
has  a  lazaretto  for  the  performance  of  quarantine* 
Oxoneira  on  the  S.W.  is  the  third  town  ;  on  the 
south,  separated  from  St;  Nicolo  by  a  peninsula, 
is  Port  St  John.  Port  Kolymbritha  and  Port 
Selina  are  on  the  N,W.,  and  Port  Palermo  on  the 
tK»rth. 

Anbro  {Andros\  the  most  northerly  of  the 
Cyclades,  is  separated  from  Tino  by  a  channel  a 
mile  broad,  and  from  the  Isle  of  Negropont  by 
the  Strait  of  Silota,  or  Douro  passage.  It  is 
thirty  leagues  in  circuit,  with  12,000  inhabitants. 
It  is  described  by  some  travellers  as  a  mass  of 
rocks,  as  barren  as  in  the  time  of  Themistocles, 
when  Poverty  and  Despair  were  its  tutelary  deities; 
while  others  tell  us,  that  it  is  extremely  fertile, 
generally  producing  a  sufficiency  of  corn  for  its 
consumption,  and  exporting  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  wine*  silk,  and  fruits.  The  summits  of  its 
mountains  retain  the  snow  for  several  months. 
It  is  without  any  safe  port.  Between  it  and  Skyra 
is  a  dangerous  ledge  of  rocks  above  water,  called 
the  Caloyera  or  Monks  of  Andro. 

Between  the  Cyclades  and  the  Morea  are  seve- 
ral barren  and  uninhabited  rocks  in  the  usual 
track  of  navigation  :  they  are  the  Ananas  S.W.  of 
Milo^  Caravi,  Falconera,  mentioned  in  Faulkner's 
Shipwreck,  B^Uo-poulo,  and  St  George  d'Arboa, 
or  Belbina»  south  of  Cape  Colonni; 

VOL.  II.  T  Skiro 


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9M  MARITIKE  aEpPIUI^T. 

4rcMpd^  Skibo  (Slcyrps)  is  suiround^d  by  an  cq[>en  seit» 
being  fifteen  leagues  from  the  east  co^t  oi  Negro- 
pont ;  it  is  five  leagues  long  and  two  broad,  rocky 
and  rugged,  as  its  name  denotes.  It  is  inhabited 
by  about  1,500  Greeks,  whose  chief  industry  con- 
sists in  breeding  goats,  and  quarrying  its  white 
marble  with  black  veins.  It  has  die  mtfst  exten- 
sive ruins  of  the  Archipelago.  The  chief  place 
is  St.  Geoigis  on  the  east.  Porto  del  tres  Bocha 
(port  with  three  mouths)  on  the  S.  W.  has  its  namis 
from  its  three  entrances,  formed  by  two  large 
rocks ;  its  shores  are  rocky,  and  rise  perpendicu- 
larly to  a  great  height.  They  are  at  present  unin- 
habited, but  on  them  are  seen  the  ruins  of  an  an- 
cient city.  Skiro-Paulo,  near  the  S.W»  end  of 
SkirO)  Basoli,  Scangero,  Scardeli  and  AdelphI  on 
the  N. W.,  and  Inis  (Icos),  between  Skiro  aud 
N^propont,  are  all  uninhabited  rocks. 

Skiatta  {Sciatbm)j  Scofslo  (Scopelos)^  Dromo 
(Halonessus)^  Pelagonisi  {Peparetfius)^  Piper,  Sa- 
rakina  (Endemia)^  Petrissa  (So^mma)^  Piassoneri, 
Jura  or  Devil's  Island,  Jura-Paulo,  and  Santoni, 
form  a  diain  across  the  entrance  of  the  Gulf  of 
Salome^.  From  the  direction  of  these  islands, 
combined  with  those  of  Agio-Strati,  Lemnos,  Im« 
bros  and  Samothrace,  a  supposition  may  be  ha- 
zarded that  they  are  the  summits  of  a  ridge  of 
of  land  that  formerly  united  Greece  and  dit 
Thraoian  Chersonesus.  Skiatta  is  seven  leagues 
long  and  five  broad,  covered  with  trees ;  oS  its 
S.E.  end  are  five  or  six  islets.  Scopelo  is  tai 
miles  long  and  five  broadt  is  also  w^  wooded ; 


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THE  MEDITttRAKSAir^TtmXIflM  ISLANDS*    MS 

haBr  1S,000  Greek  inhabitaiits,  i^bo  export  %  ooH'*  ^aam-i^ 
tiderahie  quantity  of  vine. 

Tasso  (Thasos)i  close  to  (iie  head  of  the  Ar<* 
chipelago,  is  four  leagues  long  and  three  broad ; 
it  is  mountainous,  principally  on  the  south,  but 
aflbrds  excellent  vine  and  fine  marbles.  It  wa^ 
celelmited  for  its  ancient  fertility,  and  is  often 
mentioned  as  taking  an  active  part  in  the  wars  of 
Greece ;  it  is  also  thought  by  some  to  be  the 
Tarshish  of  the  Bible. 

Samothraki  {Samoihrace)^  and  Imbto  {IviAros)^ 
are  opposite  the  gulf  of  Saros.  The  first  is  high 
and  rocky,  \rith  a  little  town  on  the  N.W.,  but 
no  port. 

Jmbro  is  seven  leagues  in  circuit,  mountainous 
and  woody,  witii  abundance  of  game ;  its  popu* 
ktion  is  1,000  Greeks  in  five  village. 

Li;knos,  or  Stalimeke,  is  situated  exactly  in  l^e 
middle  of  the  Egean  Sea,  at  an  equal  diitaflce^ 
from  the  promontory  of  Moust  Athos  in  Eurqie^ 
aad  Cape  Janissary,  at  the  entcance  of  the  Dar« 
daaelles  in  Asia.  It  is  however  con«dered  by. 
geogn^hers  as  bebnging  to  the  former  contineet, 
although  anciently  dependent  on  the  latta*.  Its* 
shape  is  nearly  a  square  of  eight  leagi^s  each 
WSJ ;  it  is  hilly  and  badly  watered,  but  produces 
aome  ccnn,  oil,  cotton^  silk  and  wine,  and  affi>rds 
the  mineral  earth  named  terra  lemnia^  or  terra 
mgUitOj  from  the  vessds  it  is  contained  ip  being 
sealed  by  the  Turks.  It  has  two  ports,  Nicaria 
on  the  N.E.  and  Poirt  Antony  on  the  &£. ;  the 
coast  is  lined  by  a  shoal«  tibat  reiulers  it  inac- 
T  2  cessible. 


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flft4     .  MAUTIME  OBOGRAPHT* 

eenihie*    The  Lemniots  are  chiefly  seamen,  waA 
their  women  are  celebrated  for  their  bea^uty* 
-  Agio-Strati,  a  small  island  S.W.  of  Lemiios,  is 
the  ancient  Nea^  consecrated  to  Minerva. 


The  isles  Sporades  (dispersed)  of  the  ancients: 
form  a  chain  along  the  coast  of  Anatolia  (between: 
Samos  and  Rhodes  inclusive),  from  which  there 
is  every  appearance  of  their  having  been  separat- 
ed by  the  action  of  the  waters. 

Rhodes  {Rhodus)^  the  most  considerable  and 
southern,  is  separated  from  the  S.W.  extremity  of 
Anatolia  by  the  channel  of  Rhodes,  three  to  four 
leagues  wide.  The  island  is  twelve  leagues  loag 
and  four  broad.  The  nordi  coast  is  low,  but  rises 
inland  to  a  high  mountain,  flat  at  top.  The  soil 
is  in  general  sandy,  but  well  watered  and  tolenK 
bly  fertile,  producing  com,  wine,  oil,  firuits,  ho- 
ney, &c.  The  island  abounds  with  hares^  wood* 
cocks,  partridges,  snipes,  and  wild  ducks*  Tbe 
cHhiate  is  mild  and  healthy,  the  winter  having 
neither  frost  nor  snow,  and  the  summer  heats  are 
tempered  by  the  westerly  sea  breezes  in  that  sea* 
son.  Th«  population  of  the  island  is  estimated 
at  10,000  Turks,  9,500  Greeks,  and  500  Jews.-. 
It  is  governed  by  a  Turkish  pasha,  and  the  T^ye^ 
nue  it  affords  does  not  exceed  jf  12,000,  of  which* 
4^,000  is  spent  in  the  government  of  the  islands^ 

Rhodes  remained  attached  to  the  Eastern  empire* 
until  taken  by  the  Turks  in  the  reign  of  Constans, . 
but  ^\1io  were  again  driven  out  by  the  Greeks,  and 
these  latter  again  lost  it  in  their  turn  tothe-Turks^^ 

who 


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TRS  MEBTTERRANSAN— TURKISH  ISLANDS.  305 

"who  weredispossessedof  it  by  the  knights  of  St.  John  sporade». 
of  Jerusaiem  in  1308,  with  whom  it  remained  un-  ^'^^' 
til  1523,  when  the  Turks  again  got  possession  of 
it,  after  an  obstinate  resistance.  The  Rhodians 
were  anciently  the  masters  of  the  navigation  of 
the  Mediterranean,  and  their  maritime  code  was 
adopted  by  all  the  nations  of  Europe,  until  super- 
seded by  that  of  Oleron. 

Rhodes,  the  chief  town,  is  on  the  N.E.  point 
c£  the  island,  and  is  built  amphitheatrically  on  the 
side  of  a  hill ;  it  is  surrounded  by  thick  walls  wit^ 
towers,  which  give  it  an  appearance  of  much 
greater  strength  than  it  possesses.  The  streets 
are  narrow  and  crooked*  and  the  houses  mean. 
It  has  two  ports ;  the  smallest,  named  Dasca,  has 
its  entrance  firom  the  east,  and  is  covered  by  seve- 
ral rocks^  leaving  only  a  channel  for  one  vessel  at 
a  time  ;  it  has  sdso  jetties,  but  is  filling  up  daily,  « 
and  at  preset^  can  only  receive  small  merchant 
vessels.  The  second  port,  named.  Rhodes,  faces 
the  west,  on  which  side  it  is  sheltered,  but  is  open 
to  the  N.  ^nd  N.E*  It  receives  vessels  of  eigh- 
iMXi  feet  draft,  and  her^  Turkish  vessels  of  war 
are  built  of  the  pines  the  island  affords.  The  port 
of  Rhodes  is  celebrated  for  a  colossal  statue  of 
Apollo  of  brass,  described  by  Pliny  j  it  had  sixty- 
MX  coudes  in  height,  about  500  feet,  and  its  pro- 
]K»rtioiis  were  so  enormous  that  few  men  could 
embrace  its  thmnb.  It  was  overturned  by  an 
earthquake  fifty-six  years  after  its  erection,  when 
the  broken  limbs  were  found  to  be  hdlow,  and 
ISiled  with  enormous  stones  to  k^ep  it  erect. 
>  T  3 .,  Some 


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MARITIME  OBOO&APHT« 

Some  modem  writers  pretend  that  it  Mood  acrots 
the  mouth  of  the  port  with  a  foot  on  each  pointy 
and  that  ships  in  full  sail  went  under  it,  but  the 
silence  of  Pliny  as  to  this  position  renders  it 
doubtful.  When  the  island  fell  under  the  domi* 
nion  of  the  Turks,  the  brpken  remains  of  the 
Colussus  were  sold  to  a  Jew,  and  loaded  900 
camels. 

The  other  places  of  any  note  are  Lindo,  on  the 
east»  at  the  head  of  a  deep  bay  and  at  the  foot  of 
n  high  mountain,  on  the  ute  of  the  ancient  Lm- 
duSf  celebrated  for  its  temple  of  Minerva,  of  which 
tome  remains  are  still  to  be  seen  on  the  sumout  of 
the  hill  behind  the  town*  On  the  south  aide  of 
the  bay  is  good  anchorage,  in  eight  to. twelve 
&thoins,  opposite  a  little  village  named  Maasaiy, 
Inhere  is  shelter  from  the  S.W.  winds,  which 
often  blow  with  violence  during  winter.  Uxitico 
is  on  the  S.E.  Cape  Trsmquille  is  the  south  p<mit 
of  the  island.  Oft'  it  is  the  isle  of  St  Ca- 
therine. 

limonia  (Teutlussa%  Karki  {Chake\  Fiacopia 
(Tf/ltw),  Nisari  {Nysiini$\  and  Madona,  are  be^ 
tween  Rhodes  and  Stancho.  Nisari,  the  moat 
considerable,  produces  wheats  cotton,  and  wine^ 
and  has  warm  springs. 

Stancho  (Cos\  celebrated  as  the  birth-fdace  of 
Hippocrates  and  Apelles,  and  for  a  famous  tem« 
pie  of  Escidapius,  is  ten  leagues  loi^  and  ibtff 
broad,  mountainous  on  the  south,  with  8,000  rxt*^ 
habitants;  it  is  unhealthy,  paxtly  covered  widi 
cypress  trees,  but  has  also  good  pastnrea  and  pro* 

duces 


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THE  MBDrrEtRAIVBAK^ttTitKIfttl   ISLANDS.  3^7 

duces  principal^  lemons,  the  exprested  juiec  of  s^^fi. 
which  is  sent  td  Coii$taiititio|>le.  Whetstdhes  were 
first  brought  from  this  island,  whence  their  Latin 
name  of  Cos.  Hie  chief  town  is  on  the  north,  de- 
ftoded  hj  a  castle,  and  has  a  port  fit  only  for  small 
crafl«  The  little  island  Cali  (Isiros)  is  between 
Sianeho  and  the  toain  land  of  Cape  Crio. 

Calimine  (Cafymna)  is  mountainous,  and  ce- 
lebrated for  its  excellent  honey.  Caper  {Caproria) 
is  between  Stancho  and  Calamine. 

LSRO  (Leros)  id  six  leagties  in  circuit,  rtioiin- 
tainod*  and  stony,  but  prcfduces  fruits,  honey,  &c. 
It  is  inhabited  by  about  2,000  Greeks,  and  is  the 
birth-jAace  of  Patroclus.  Its  only  town  is  oh  the 
east  side,  on  the  declivity  of  a  hill  crowned  with 
a  castle,  built  by  the  Gefioese,  but  now  in  ruins. 
Port  /Partheni,  on  the  north,  is  sheltered  by  the 
little  island  Archangel,  a  league  long  north  and 
south,  half  a  league  broad,  and  uninhat)ited.  Fra- 
telli,  or  the  Brothers,  east  of  Lero,  and  Lerilla, 
north  of  Lero,  are  uninhabited  islets. 

Pathmos,  seven  leagues  in  circuit,  is  a  heap  of 
barren  rocks,  with  a  few  Greek  monks,  who  inha- 
bit the  large  fortified  monastery  of  St.  John.  The 
coasts  of  this  island  are  compared  to  the  leaf  of  an 
oak  from  their  numerous  indentations,  several  of 
which  form  excellent  ports.  That  of  Scala  is  on 
the  east,  and  here  the  Monks  shew  the  cavern  in 
which  St.  John  is  supposed  to  have  composed  the 
Apocalypse.  Arco  and  Lipso  (Lepsia)  are  little 
islands  between  Lero  and  Pathmos. 

Samos  is  separated  from  Cape  St  Mary  in  Ana- 

Y  4  tolia 


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S$8  MARITIMB  GBQGttAPHT. 

tolia  by  a  channel,  called  the  Little  Bogaz,  two 
leagues  wide.  It  is  ten  leagues  long  east  and 
west,  apd  three  to  five  broad ;  a  ridge  of  moim«^ 
tains  runs  through  its  middle,  the  highest  summit 
of  which,  named  Mount  Kertis,  retains  the  snow 
throughout  the  year.  It  is  inhabited  by  12,000 
Greeks,  who  are  industrious,  exporting  silk,  wool, 
honey,  and  pitch,  some  fruits  and  oil.  llie  ruins 
of  a  temple  of  Juno,  of  whom  this  island  )s  the 
birth-place)  are  admired  as  the  finest  remains  of 
the  ^rchipelagOt  Pythagoras  was  also  bom  on 
this  island ;  but  to  qounterbfdance  these  antique 
celebrities,  the  women  are  said  to  be  the  only 
ugly  ones  of  the  Archipelago.  J'hp  ports  are 
Vathi,  on  the  NtE.  j  Megalo-chori,  th^  phief 
place,  and  Samos,  on  the  sQuth. 

NiCARiA  (Icaros)  is  separated  from  Samos  by 
the  Great  Bogaz.  It  is  twenty  leagues  in  circuit, 
is  traversed  by  a  ridge  of  mountains,  covered  with 
pines  and  o^s,  but  i^  otherwise  barren,  though 
well  watered.  It  has  no  port,  and  only  about 
1,000  Greek  inhabitants,  who  are  the  most  lazy 
and  poor  of  the  Archipelago,  and  at  the  same  time 
'  the  proudest,  pretending  to  derive  their  descent 
from  the  imperial  house  of  the  Constantines.  This 
island  is  celebrated  for  the  shipwrepk  of  Icarus, 
whence  its  name,  The  island  ^tapodia  is  pflF  the 
westend  of  Nicaria.  Formja,  or  the  Ants  {Corsece^ 
a  small  island,  and  several  rocks  are  between  Ni- 
caria and  Pathmos;  and  Agathonisi  {Hyatusdj 
is  south  of  Samos  and  opposite  the  Meander. 

The  islands  on  the  coast  of  Anatolia,  not  in- 

clude4 


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THE   MEDITERRANEAN — ^TURKISH   ISLANDS.   S29 

c  uded  i  n  the  Sporades,  are  Scio,  Ipsera,  Metelin, 
Tenedos,  and  some  lesser  ones.  Scio  {Chios) 
Salziza-dau,  or  Mastic  Island  of  the  Turks,  is 
separated  from  the  coast  of  Anatolia  by  the  Strait 
of  Bianca,  three  leagues  wide.  It  is  eight  leagues 
long  and  three  broad,  containing  50,000  in- 
habitants, of  whom  not  above  2,000  are  Turks. 
Though  mountaitious  and  rocky  this  is  one  of  the 
most  fruitful  islands  of  the  Archipelago,  pro- 
ducing wine,  oil,  silk,  and  particularly  the  len- 
t^sk  tree,  which  aflbrds  the  mastic,  universally 
used  by  the  Turkish  ladies  to  perfume  their 
breaths,  and  the  sale  of  which  is  monopolized  by 
the  Grand  Signior.  The  other  productions  for 
commerce  are  conserve  and  oil  of  roses,  fruits 
and  turpentine,  collected  from  the  terebintha  tree^ 
which  also  abounds. 

This  island  is  also  one  of  the  most  celebrated  by 
the  ancient  poets,  as  the  birth-place  of  Homer, 
and  the  pretended  hut  in  which  he  dwelt  is  still 
shewn  to  travellers,  as  well  as  the  school  of  this' 
father  of  poetry,  which  latter  is,  however,  ac« 
cording  to  antiquarians,  a  chapel  of  Cybele.  Tlie 
women  and  wine  of  Chios  were  equally  celebrated, 
the  former  for  their  beauty,  and  the  latter  for  its 
excellent  flavour,  and  it  is  said  that  the  modem 
females  have  not  degenerated.  The  fountain  of 
Helena,  whose  water  is  as  cold  as  ice,  is  one  of  the 
greatest  curiosities  of  the  island.  The  Genoese 
possessed  this  island  from  1326  to  1566,  when  it 
was  taken  by  the  Turks,  from  whom  it  was  wrest- 
ed by  the  Venetians  in  1694,  but  again  lost  the 

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030  HARITIME   GEOGRAPHY. 

next  year.  It  is  at  present  the  apanage  of  a 
Sultana,  whence  it  is  less  exposed  to  the  extortion 
of  the  Turkish  officers  than  iliost  of  the  other 
islands.  It  has  manufactures  of  silk  and  cotton, 
equal  to  those  of  India  or  Lyons.  On  this  island 
is  a  general  hospital  for  all  the  leprous  subjects  of 
the  Archipelago- 

Scio,  the  principal  town,  is  on  the  middle  of  the 
east  coast,  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain,  and  con- 
tains 30,000  inhabitants.  The  port  is  formed  by 
a  pier  on  the  south,  but  is  daily  filling  up.  It  has 
a  lazaretto,  and  is  defended  by  a  citadel  and  other 
works  in  a  bad  state,  and  garrisoned  by  700  or 
800  Janissaries.  Port  Dauphin  {Delphinium)^  on 
the  north,  is  a  good  harbour.  Cape  Mastico  H 
the  south  point,  and  Cape  Nicolo  the  N.W.  Off 
the  south  side  is  the  little  island  Venetico  (Phana)^ 
with  a  safe  channel  within  it. 

Ipsera  (Psyrd)  is  rocky  and  rises  to  a  high  peak 
in  the  centre  ;  it  is  generally  barren,  but  affords  i 
little  wine.  On  the  S.W.  is  a  good  road,  and  a 
haven  for  eight  to  ten  small  craft.  The  only  town 
is  half  a  league  from  this  port,  and  contains  three 
to  4,000  inhabitants,  all  Greeks.  Anti-Ipsera  ia 
a  large  barren  rock,  near  the  S.  W.  end  of  Ipsera ; 
it  is  inhabited  by  a  few  Greeks.  The  Spalmado- 
res  (CEnuses)  are  two  small  uninhd>ited  islands, 
on  the  north  entrance  of  the  channel,  between 
Scio  and  the  main :  they  form  a  good  road  for  tfie 
laigest  vessels. 

Metelin  {Lesbos\  celebrated  as  the  birth-place 
of  Sapho  and  Theocritus,  Arion  and  Terpander, 

is 


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THB  ifBsnnEAiaAH---^finwtfa  islands.  Ittl 

is  dirae  leagues  dntatit  frcMn  the  c«8t  of  'AnftlCK 
lk»  tdn  leagues  lotig  and  four  bfood.  It  is  fbraiiid 
of  a  obain  of  mauataais  And  covered  %itii  "votel^ 
nised  substances,  but  fertile  in  olives,  wine  wd 
^otn :  some  of  its  hills  are  wdl  wooded,  Kndit  is  the 
most  healthy  island  of  the  Archipelago*  It  hik 
hot  ^1^8^  agate  and  other  valtiabie  stones.  It 
has  25,000  inbabitsnts,  half  Greeks  ttd  l^ 
Turks.  Its  exporte  are  principflAty  oil  (OOfiOd 
^ntals)  to  Conatantinopley  aad  i^nntk  (S^OOO 
quintals)  to  Italy. 

The  chief  town,  named  Metslin  or  Castro,  is  m 
tke  S.£. ;  and  on  a  peninsula  formiOg  two  porti. 
The  northemmdet  is  sheltered  by  a  pier  to  tlie 
aMrtk  and  receives  small  vessel^  tibe  sooth  k  only 
fit  for  boats»  add  vessels  of  borden  ;lre  ot^ed  to 
anchor  in  the  roads,  entirely  exposed  to  the  K«£» 
The  town  has  8,000  inhabitants,  ii  Mtromdtid  by  a 
double  wall  flanked  with  towers,  andbasaq^octous 
^tadel  with  a  garrison  of  ^00  Janissaries. 

Port  Yero,  near  the  S«E.  point  of  the  ishuid»  M 
the  Port  of  (Wvos,  is  one  of  the  most  spMious 
and  safe  hatbooffs  of  the  Archipelago,  andabonndi 
witfi  exceUent  caters  ^  the  village  of  Yero  is 
idrignificant. 

Port  Caloni  on  the  SkW.  is  a  laige  and  safe  road 
bot  little  fire^uenced.  Port  Sign  {AfaisM)^  at  the 
west  end,  is  an  excellent  barbow  rfiehered  by  a 
UtdenAabA  (Neriope) :  the  vOIage  of  Sign  consist* 
of  some  homtes  ef  Irood  and  mud  defeiided  by  # 
j^oor  fi^it.  Fort  Petri,  oti  the  north,  though  souse* 
what  expcaed  to  theN.W.,  is  soffioiently  safe.  It 

has 


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has  its  name  from  a  rock  which  rises  in  the 
mtdkUe  <^  the.port  to  the  height  of  200  feett  and 
jon  which  is  a  chapel;  here  is  a  village  of  forty 
lu)|ises. 

Tenepos  is  separated  from  the  plain  of  Troy 
by  a.  channel  half  a  league  broad.  .  It  is  a  square 
often  miles,  and  with  the  exception  of  some  hills 
near  the  town,  is  level,  with  few  trees,  but  wzth 
^ictensive  vineyards,-  and  pastures  a  great  many 
4ihe^,  Its  p<^ulatioD  is  6,000  Grebes,  audit  exports 
60,000  oques  of  wine  to  Constantinople  and  Smyr- 
na. The  chief  place  is  on  the  east  and  has  a  good 
port  for  small  vessels,  fcnmed  by  a  point  of  land 
on  the  south  and  a  pier  on  the  north !  on  the  poiid. 
is  a  fort  garrisoned  by  150  Janissaries.  Off  Ab 
H«£.  end  of  the  island  iu:e  some  islets,  called  the 
Babbits.  . 

The  last  Turkish  island  in  the  Mediterranean 
that  remains  to  be  noticed  is  Cyprus,  situated  at 
the  N.E.. extremity  of  the  Levant  and  ten  leagues 
disttoit  from  the  coast  of  Caramania. 

This  ishuo^  received  varioua-nameb  in  different 
periods  of  antiquity,  viz.  AcaomnHSf  Ceras&s^ 
Asphelioj  and  Cypria;  its  Turkish  name  is  JTu- 
pris.  It  is  seventy  leagues  long  &nd  twenty  broads* 
is  traversed  from  east  to  west  by  a  high  chain  of 
mountains,  ajotiongst  which  is  a  tfaird  Ol^mpm^  one 
of  whose  peaks  i&  called  by  the  Greeks  the  Moun* 
tain  of  the  Holy  Cross,  from,  a  church  on  its 
summit.  It  has  no  river  and  the  torrents  that 
descend  from  the  mouotains  ihL  winter  da  not 
r^tch  the  sea  in. summer,  but  fwm  unhealt2^6ta^« 

nant 


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THE  MBDtrCmilANfiAK-— ^Ua&IM  ISLANDS.    838 

naot  lakes  and  marshes  in  the  low  grounds.  The 
island  is,  gcBerally  fertile,  producing  wine,  oil, 
cotton,  silk,  and  pasture,  and  it  has  large  tracts 
of  forest.  It  is  rich  in  minerals,  having  mines  of 
gold  and  silver,  and  affords  emeralds,  rock  christaU 
red  jasper,  agate,  amianthus,  terre  d'ombre  and 
other  minerals,  besides  the  Paphian  diamond.  It 
has  ho  wild  animals  but  foxes  and  hares.  The 
population  is,  according  to  Olivier,  60,000,  half 
Greeks  and  half  Turks;  according  to  Malte  ^nm 

«3,ooa 

-  Cyprus  is  celebrated  by  the  ancient  poets  as 
one  of  the  favourite  residences  of  Venus ;  and 
according  to  the  accounts  of  modem  travellers, 
the  worship  of  the  goddess  has  lost  little  of  its 
ancient  fervor.  Paphos,  Amathonte^  and  the 
^T6v€k  of  Idalkj  have  furnished  images  both  to 
ancient  artd  wodem  poets. 

This  island' was  anciently^ afctached  to  Egypt, 
And  oil  the  extinction  of  the  Ptolemies  fell  under 
the  Rocttan  dominion.  On*  the  division  of  the 
ei^re  ft*  remained  to  that  of  the  east.  Richard 
I.  of  Engkttd  got  possession  of  it  in  the  Crusades, 
and  granted  it  to  the  Cotiht  of  Lusignan,  to  be 
held  as  a  ifief  erf*  the  crowh  of  En^and,  as  an 
ittdem«ity  for  the  loss  of  Jetusaletti.  The  heirs 
^th«^hou&e  of  Lusignan  sold  Jfr  to  the  Venetians, 
tvlto  iosjt'  it  to  the  Turks  in  157ii  It  'is  now  an 
afJahage  of  the  Grand  Viziei*,  who  govefrt^  it  'by 
ai^  Pasha  resident  at  Nicosia,  (Le/cosia  of  the 
Turks),  in  the  centre  of  the  island.  The  revenue 
It  affords*  to  this  minister  is  variously  estimated^ 

Guthrie 


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984  MAiimia  «BP«EAfin% 

Ouihm  making  U  but  £h%60,  Taylor  ^880,0001 
and  Olivier  ^60.000. 

The  principal  pdotf  are  C^pe  St.  Andrew^  tiie 
east  poaot  (CUde\  off  wbic^  are  the  rocky  and 
barren  ialimiff  Dmares  (Carpam);  Cape  dd 
Qaltat  tbe  sioutb  poiot  (Curias);  Cape  Salizano 
(^ca»w)  the  N,W. 

The  chi^  piacea  are  Famagusta  ^  {Arsmoe\ 
surrounded  by  strong  walla  with  twelve  towers^ 
and  defended  by  two  forts :  it  has  the  beat  port  of 
the  island,  and  here  reside  the  European  consuli^ 
The  bay  of  Salinas^  between  Cape  Grego  and  Cape 
Tagi9ta»  or  Chiti,  ia  pointed  out  by  the  higheit 
auQunit  of  the  i«lai>d»  Mount  Ciua»  or  RuaUi^ 
beiAg  directly  over  it,  whence  it  beate  west.  Lar^^ 
naca,  on  the  east  shore  pf  this  bay,  has  a  tolfera)da 
road  even  in  winters  though  ei^posed  to  the  S.E.  and 
S.  The  town,  which  is  a  het^  of  ruins,  is  half  a  mjla 
from  the  shore»  09  which  is  a  suburb  on  the  site 
of  the  ancient  (Mmn :  in  the  vicinity  are  many  saU 
marshes,  whence  the  name  of  the  bayt  which 
a£^rd  considerable  quaatities  of  salt  but  ceodac 
the  air  uoheakhy.  Salinas  (Satrnmj  is  at  the  head 
of  tb^  gulf,  it  has  a  citadd  failing  to  ruin. 

The  Bay  of  Limaaok^  pr  Ximisso,  is  slwlt^rad 
on  the  west  by  point  PeUa  Gatta :  the  viUaga  all 
the  head  of  the  bay  is  supposed  to  stttid  oa  tha 
§ite  of  Amathoptei  and  a  league  east  of  it  aw 
considerable  ruinat    Fiscopia  is  a  village  eaat  0$ 

the 

•  A  oorruptionof  Amncmta^  built  on  thesaDdj  it  is  calleil  Maogoi]^ 
iQftlMTwrkt, 


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THE  MEDITEERAMEAK — ^TUEKISH  ISLANDS*    SSS 

the  south  point  of  the  island  and  in  the  most 
fertile  part  of  it 

Qn  the  west  coast  are  Baffin  supposed  to  be  on 
the  site  of  Paphos  ;  it  is  a  small  town  with  a  fort 
and  port  for  small  vessels:  the  town  is  on  an 
eminence  one  mile  from  the  port  and  is  entirely 
inhabited  by  Greeks.  Solea  (JSoloe  and  Mpeia) 
is  on  the  north  coast,  as  are  Cerino  (Ceroma\  a 
village  of  200  inhabitants  with  a  castle  in  good 
order ;  it  has  a  small  port  witliin  two  rocks,  but 
open  to  the  north  and  unsafe  in  winter,  Maceria 
(^Maccaria  and  Aphrodiciimi)y  and  Artfemisia. 

The  only  danger  round  Cyprus  is  a  bank  called 
the  Black  Ground,  twelve  leagues  south  of  Salinas 
bay,  with  but  six  feet.  The  commerce  of  Cyprus 
is  considerable,  exporting  of  its  own  produce 
cotton,  which  is  considered  the  best  of  the  Levant, 
5,000  bags  of  600  lb.  each,  chiefly  to  Venice, 
Holland,  and  England  ;  silk,  Sd,000  bags  of 
SOOlb.  each;  wool,  500  bags  of  600 lb.  each; 
wine  chiefly  to  Venice  and  Leghorn ;  coloquin- 
tida,  100  quintals,  chiefly  to  Holland  and  Leghorn ; 
laudanum^  madder,  chiefly  to  France;  cochineal 
a  small  quantity ;  soda  to  Marseilles ;  turpen- 
tine to  Venice ;  green  earth  for  painters,  an4 
brown  umber,  chiefly  to  Holland ;  com,  though 
prohibited,  finds  its  way  out  of  the  island ;  salt 
to  Syria  and  Constantinojde ;  carob  beans,  pitch, 
tar,  and  planks  in  small  quantities,  and  9om« 
manu&ctured  silks  and  cottons* 

Of  the  produce  of  the  neighbouring  coast  of 
Caramania,  imported  into  Cyprus  and  re-exportedt 

th^ 


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SS6  MAUmME  GEOGRAPHY. 

the  principal  are  liquid  storax,  camel's  hair,  ^clloW 
wax  and  gall-nuts.  Cyprus  receives  few  imports^ 
and  the  exports  are  therefore  chifefly  paid  for  in 
specie.  600  European  vessels  are  averaged  tcf 
visit  Cyprus  every  year,  besides  Turkish  vessels^ 


BARBARY. 

The  northern  extremity  of  Africa,  or  Barbary^ 
is  divided  between  the  four  states  of  Morocco, 
Algiers,  Tunis,  and  Tripoli.  This  great  region 
seems  to  be  separated  by  nature  from  the  vast 
desert,  the  lofty  chain  of  Atlas  enclosing  it  on  the 
south,  commencing  at  Cape  de  Geer  on  the  Atlan- 
tic coast,  and  terminating  at  the  Gulf  of  Syrtis  in 
the  Mediterranean.  Several  ramifications  of  this 
vast  system*  are  pushed  to  the  coasts,  where  they 
terminate  in  promontories. 

The  JEmpire  of  Morocco,  m  it  is  pompoudy 
called,  extends  on  the  Atlantic  from  the  Strait 
of  Gibraltar  to  about  Cape  Agulon,  and  on  the 
Mediterranean  to  the  river  Mulloia,  east  of  Cape 
Tres  Forcas. 

After  passing  Cape  Spartel,  the  first  place  is 
Tangier  (Tingis^three  leagues  east  of  the  cape. 

It 

*  We  are  without  a  term  in  English  to  denote,  with  sufficient  force,  the 
iBunense  continuous  series  of  mountains  that  form  the  skeleton  of  the  globe. 
The  word  cAam,  generally  used,  supposes  a  continuity  without  deviation.  The 
term^y^^^m,  from  the  French,  seems  more  adequately  to  convey  the  intended 
idea.  The  word  plateau,  from  the  same  language,  has,  we  believe,  beem 
adopted  by  English  writers^  to  denote  the  great  and  exteiuive  elevated  tevels- 
of  the  globe. 


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THE   MEDITERRANEAN —BAEBARY.  S37 

It  is  built  on  the  extremity  of  a  promontory,  des-  ^rj^„f 
cending  gradually,  and  projecting  into  an  open 
bay,  which  forms  the  road.  Its  amphitheatrical 
situation  gives  it  a  good  appearance  from  the  sea  j 
but,  like  all  Moorish  towns,  it  is  extremely  dirty, 
and  the  streets  so  narrow  as  scarcely  to  admit  two 
persons  abreast.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  and 
parapet  of  considerable  height;  has  a  castle  occu- 
pying  a  large  extent  of  ground,  and  a  battery  of 
sixteen,  guns,  and  a  mortar,  but  without  carriages. 
Tlie  whole  of  these  works  are  in  a  very  ruinous 
slate,  it  being  contrary  to  the  custom  of  the  Moors^ 
to  repair,  an  old  building,  although  they  do  not 
scruple  to  make  additions  to  it.  The  population 
is  15,000;  and  its  commerce  is  almost  entirely 
confined  to  the  supplying  Gibraltar  with  provisions, 
such  as  cattle,  com,  vegetables,  and  fruit,  which 
are  extremely  cheap.  The  English,  Spaniards, 
Portuguese,  and  Americans,  have  consuls  here. 
Tangier  was  formerly  possessed  by  the  Portuguese, 
who  transferred  it  to  England  as  a  part  of  the 
marriage  portion  of  Catharine,  wife  of  Cliarles  II., 
but  this  monarch  soon  abandoned  it,  on  account  of 
its  expense.  Cape  Malebata  is  the  east  point  of 
Timgier  Bay. 

Between  Tangier  and  Ceuta  are  Old  Tangier, 
Alcazar  el  Saquer  (Little  Palace),  opposite  Tarifla ; 
it  was  famous  heretofore  for  being  the  usual  place 
of  rendezvous  of  the  Moors  in  their  descents  on 
Spain.  Near  it  three  small  rivers  emj)ty  them- 
selves; the  ancient  Balone,  Cuchillos  and  Silis. 
*  Ape's  Hill  Bay,  named  from  a  lofty  hill  rising  be- 

voL.'ii.  z  hind 


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338  MARITIME   0£OGRAPHT. 

¥r^^y  hind  it,  affords  good  anchorage  in  fifteen  fathoms* 
Off  its  west  point  are  &|ome  sunken  rocks ;  and 
close  to  the  east  point  an  islet,  named  ConiL 

Ceuta,*  a  Spanish  possession,  being  ceded  to 
that  nation  by  tiie  Portuguese  in  1668,  derives  its 
name  from  seven  hills  seen  after  passing  Cape 
Spartel,  and  laying  in  a  direction  north  and  south. 
These  hills  were  known,  to  the  Romans  by  the 
name  of  the  Seven  Brothers,  whence  the  word 
SeptOf  and,  by  corruption,  Ceuta.  It  is  built  on 
the  promontory  of  Mount  Acho  (Abyld),  which, 
both  in  situation  and  form,  greatly  resembles  the 
rock  of  Gibraltar,  and  although  not  so  immensely 
fortified,  it  is  extremely  strong.  It  has  a  citadel 
built  on  the  extremity  of  the  promontory,  called 
Almina  Point,  surrounded  by  a  rampart  and  wet 
ditch  ;  and  on  the  highest  part  is  a  fort  and  look- 
out house  to  watch  the  Moors,  who  continually 

form 

•  Besides  Ceuta,  Spain  possessed  on  the  coast  of  Africa^  in  the  Mediter- 
ranean, the  fortresses  of  Penon  de  Velez,  Penon  d'Alhuzemas,  MeliUa, 
Manalquivir  and  Orau.  These  ports  were  capable  of  being  made  consi- 
derably  advantageous,  particularly  in  repressing  tlie  depredatJooi  of  tke 
Barbary  Corsairs,  more  destructive  to  the  Spaniards  than  to  any  other  na- 
tion of  the  Mediterranean.  In  general,  however,  they  were  greatly  neglected ; 
and  in  1791,  Gran,  which  had  been  recently  nearly  destroyed  fay  an  earth* 
quAe,  and  Marsalquivir,  were  entirely  abandoned.  The  Spanish  establish- 
ments on  this  coast  have  the  name  of  Presidios,  and  serve  as  places  of 
banishment  for  the  detterathi  or  exiles,  who  are  transported  '$m  vnH  fbr 
trivial  offences  as  for  heinous  crimes.  The  former  are,  however,  permitted 
to  work  at  their  trades,  or  to  enter  into  a  military  corps  formed  of  them : 
the  latter  are  condemned  to  the  public  works  in  irons.  When  a  destenido 
receives  a  pardon,  he  is  immediately  sent  back  to  Spain,  not  being  allowed, 
•n  any  account,  to  remain  in  the  presidio.  Ko  woman  is  permitted  to 
reside  in  these  establishments  who  is  not  married,  or  does  not  follow  soiM 
honest  and  usefiil  occupation ;  nor  is  any  stranger  permitted  to  eDter  ttai. 
without  the  express  permiMioa  of  the  governor. 


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THE  MXOtTSaRAN£AN«~BARBARY.  9S9 

fi)rm  small  encampments  in  the  vicinity.  The  SSif 
population  of  Ceuta,  including  the  garrison,  k 
S,600*  It  almost  entirely  depends  on  Spain  for 
provisions,  and  several  xebecs  are  continually  cm* 
ployed  in  supplying  it.  Its  road  is  exposed,  and 
the  anchorage  in  veiy  deep  water  dose  to  the 
shore.  Here  is  shewn  a  cavern,  said  to. have  been 
inhabited  by  St.  John  de  Dieu,  before  he  founded 
his  order  of  charity* 

Halfway  between  Ceuta  and.T€tuail,-or  neady 
three  leagues  from  each,  is  Cape  PorcUsj  between 
which  and  Ceuta  is  a  fine  sandy  bay  with  good 
anchorage.  A  river  empties  itself  north  of  the 
cape.  Tetuan  is  built  on  two  hills,  on  the  bank  of 
a  river  one  njile  ftom  the  sea  j  it  occupies  a  con- 
siderable space,  having  20,000  inhabitants,  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  wall  flanked  with  towers,  mounting 
some  small  cannon,  and  on  the  summit  of  one  of 
the  hills  is  a  castle  with  twenty-four  guns.  Vessels 
drawing  six  feet  can  go  up  to  Tetuan.  The  bay  is 
extremely  foul,  and  entirely  exposed  from  W.  to 
•N.  E. 

After  passing  Tetuan  we  meet  in  succession 
with  the  Spanish  fortresses  of  Penon  de  Velez,  or 
'  tlie  great  rock,  which  commands  the  Moorish  t^wn 
•of  Velez  Gomera.  Penoii  de  Alhuzemas,  built  on 
a  round  rocky  islet,  before  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Mocor,  commands  the  Moorish  city  of  Mezemma. 
Melilla  (Jiusadir)  is  situated  on  an  islet  joined  to 
the  oiain  by  a  bridge ;  and  a  little  east  ofH;he  Cape 
Tres  f!orcas  (three  points),  on  which  is  a  watch* 
tower.'    It  contains  S^OOO  inhabitants^  and  has  a 

z  2  .  haven 


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Empin^ 


840  MARITIME  GEOGRAPHT* 

haven  within  two  moles  for  small  vessels,  and  good 
anchorage  in  the  roads  for  large  ones.  In  177"^ 
the  Moors  besieged  it  with  60,000  men,  but  after 
four  months  were  obliged  to  raise  the  siege. 

The  town  of  Zaffarina  has  before  it  three  islands 
one  mile  and  a  half  off  shore ;  ships  anchor  within 
these  islands,  but  exposed  to  the  N.E.  and  N.W. 
There  are  also  passages  between  the  islands  with 
four  to  six  fathoms.  The  river  MuUuia,  the  most 
considerable  of  Morocco,  empties  itsdf.  within 
these  islands. 


KINGDOM  OF  ALGIERS^ 

Ai-f/om  of  The  Kingdom  of  Algiers  extends  from  the  river 
—  Mulluia  on  the  west,  to  near  Tabarca  island  on  the 
east.  We  are  very  scantily  furnished  with  materials 
for  the  topography  of  this  coast,  and  must  therefore, 
in  many  instances,  confine  ourselves  to  giving  the 
names  of  the  principal  points  from  the  best  charts. 
The  Gulf  of  Sereni  is  deep  and  widie,  having  Cape 
Houridge,  or  Houardia,  for  its  west  point;  four 
le^ues  east  of  which  are  the  little  islands  li- 
maches  and  Carocobi,  joined  by  a  bank  of  sand. 
Between  Cape  F^alle  and  Cape  Falcon  is  a  bay  in 
which  is  the  island  Habiba. 

Marsalquivir,  on  the  West  shore  of  the  bay  east 
of  Cape  Falcon,  is  a  town  strongly  foitified,.  built 
on  a  point  of  land  called  Monte  Santo.  The  roads 
are  well  sheltered»  and  capable  of  holding  fifty 


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THE  MEDITBRRANEAN — BARBARY.  S41 

sail  of  tfee  Kne.    It  was  a  Spanish  possession,  but  *3g^y 
abandoned  in  1792 ;  as  was  Oran,  on  the  opposite 
wie  of  the  bay,  built  on  the  side  of  a  mountain, 
and  well  fort^ed. 

,  Cape  Eerrat  has  a  ledge  of  rocks  one  league  and 
a  half  distant  from  it.  East  of  this  cape  we  pass  in 
succession,  Arzells,  which  exports  wheat ;  Marzagan, 
a  considerable  town;  Sheliff  River,  which  has  its 
source  in  the  ridge  of  Atlas ;  Cape  Ivi,  a  very  high 
point,  as  is  Cape  Tenes,  between  which  latter  and 
Cape  Ferrat  the  coast  is  sandy  and  barren.  West  of 
Cape  Tenes  is  a  village,  before  which  is  good  an- 
chorage, sheltered  from  the  Levant  wind.  Ras-el- 
Amoo6h,a  village  on  a  cove,  with  good  anchorage ; 
Sarcelli  or  Sargel  (Cesarea),  an  ancient  town  and 
casde  at  the.  foot  of  a  mountain. 

The  Bay  of  Algiers  is  eight  leagues  wide,  be- 
tween Cape  Coxine  on  the  west,  and  Cape  Mati- 
fou  on  the  east ;  oif  the  latter  is  a  ledge  of  rocks 
and  several  islets.     The  bay  has  good  anchorage 
throughout  in  twenty  to  thiity  fathoms,  and  re- 
ceives the  river  Haratch.     The  city  of  Algiers  is 
on  a  cove  on  the  west  side  of  the  bay ;  it  contains 
15,000  houses  and  about  100,000  inhabitants,  and 
is  built  amphitheatrical  on  the  side  of  a  Jiill.     It  is 
the  richest  town  of  Barbary,  as  well  from  the 
prizes  mitde  by  the  Corsairs  as  from  its  commerce. 
It  has  a  port,  formed  by  a  pier,  500,  paces  long, 
which  joins  a  small,  island  to  the  main.     It  is  well 
fortified*  and  resisted  the  attacks  of  the  Spaniards, 
by  land  and  sea,  witli  50,000  men,  in  I775  j  and 
by  sea  in  1783-4,  when  they  bombarded  it  with  a 

z  3  large 


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342  HAATTIME  OS06RAPHT. 

J^M«  tjf  im-ge  naval  force,  but  could  not  destroy  either  the 
town  or  shipping.  It  is  surrounded  by  handsome 
country  houses  on  the  neighbouring  hills,  which 
are  covered  with  olives,  lemons,  and  banana  trees* 

After  passing  the  Bay  of  Algiertf,  we  find  few 
{daces  of  any  note,  or  of  which  iwe  have  any  de- 
scription. The  chief  seem  to  be  in  succession, 
Tedlis,  Tenels,  S.E.  of  Cape  Carbon,  a  steep 
promontory,  with  several  white  hillocks  within  it. 
BefOTe  Tenels  is  Pisan  Island  j  Bugereh,  or  Bv^a, 
.  on  the  river  Ajebbi,  which  forms  a  tolerable  port, 
and  by  which  most  of  the  timber  used  in  ship 
building  at  Algiers  is  brought  from  tlie  interion 
Two  leagues  north  of  Bugia  is  a  large  perforated 
tock,  called  Mettescombe. 

To  Bugia  succeed  Mansuria,  -  Balteia,  Jigeli, 
west  of  Cape  Bugaroni,  Colo  where  the  French 
bad  an  establishment  to  carry  on  the  coral  fishery; 
Storo,  in  the  gulf  of  the  same  name,  of  which 
the  east  point  is  Cape  Ferro.  The  Gulf  of  Bona 
is  limited  on  the  west  by  Cape  Mabeira,  and  on 
the  east  by  Cape  Rosa ;  on  the  west  shore  are 
Port  Genoese  and  Mabeira,  on  the  S.W.  the  town 
and  harbour  of  Bona  (Hippone)^  in  a  country 
covered  with  fruit  trees,  where  the  French  com* 
pany  had  an  establishment.  The  Bastion  <^ 
France,  on  the  river  Seibus,  was  also  an  esta* 
blishment  of  the  French,  as  well  as  Calle,  seven 
leagues  further  east.  They  have  been  both  aban- 
doned, and  are  in  ruins.  Ct^e  Roux  is  the  west 
lk)int  of  the  Bay  of  Tabarca. 


KINGDOV 


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THE  SiEDITEItRANEAK — BARBART.  343 

KINGDOM  OF  TUNIS. 

The  kingdom  of  Tunis  is  Umited^  on  the  west,  JSs!^"*^ 
by  the  river  Zaino,  which  empties  itself  into  the 
head  of  the  Bay  of  Tabarca,  within  the  island  of 
the  same  name*;  on  the  east  it  extends  to  the 
Gulf  of  Cabes.  Its  coasts  are  fertile,  and  well 
wooded  and  peopled,  but  have  few  good  ports, 
and  these  are  but  little  frequented. 

The  island  of  Tabarca  is  two  miles  from  the 
entrance  of  the  river  above-mentioned ;  it  is  one 
mile  and  a  half  in  circumference.  On  its  north 
end  is  a  strong  castle,  with  several  towers  and 
com  magazines,  built  by  the  Genoese  when  they 
had  possession  of  the  island.  The  road  afibrds 
various  good  anchorages,  according  to  the  winds. 
It  was  heretofore  much  frequented  by  the  vessels 
of  Spain  and  Leghorn,  for  corn.  The  east  point 
of  the  Gulf  of  Tabarca  is  Cape  Negro,  a  long 
point,  making  like  an  island  coming  from  the 
east  It  has  a  pyramidical  rock  a  little  east  of  it* 
The  town  of  ^lid-Zaine  is  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river. 

Passing  Tabarca,  we  arrive  in  succession  at 
Cape  Serrat,  east  of  which  are  the  Three  Bro- 
thers Islands ;  Biserta  (Hippo  Zarytos)  Bay,  (of 
which  Cape  Blanco,  or  Marabut,  is  the  west  point.) 
Its  shores  are  composed  of  sandy  downs;  but 
here  is  an  excellent  port,  vdierq  the  Tunisian  gal* 
lies  lay  up.  The  two  Cami  islands  are  east  of  Bi* 
serta. 

z  i  The 


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Kkurdam  ^ 
Tmtit 


344  MARITIME   GEOGRAPHY. 

The  Gulf  of  Tunis  is  limited  by  Cape  Zibeeb  on 
the  west,  and  by  Cape  Bon  on  the  east.  Off  the 
former  is  Plane  Island.  Cape  Bon  terminates  a 
ramification  of  the  ridge  of  Atlas  towards  the 
Mediterranean.  Porto  Farino,  on  the  west  shore 
of  the  gulph,  is  the  ancient  C/^iica, 'celebrated  for 
the  death  of  Cato  the  Younger.  It  has  a  port, 
sheltered  from  all  winds,  and  frequented  by  the 
Tunisian  corsairs. 

Tunis  (Tunes)  is  situated  on  a  lake,  entered 
by  a  narrow  stiait,  with  only  water  for  boats,  and 
defended  by  a  fort  It  is  built  in  a  valley  be- 
tween two  hills,  is  three  miles  in  circumference, 
contains  10,000  houses,  and  about  50,000  inhabi- 
tants, composed  of  Moors,  Turks,  Jews,  Rene- 
gado-Christians,  negro  slaves,  and  Kabyles,  or 
natives  of  the  mountains.  The  streets  are  narrow, 
the  houses  low,  and  the  touUensemble  has  a  poor 
appearance.  The  town  has  but  one  well  of  fresh 
water,  which  is  reserved  for  the  use  of  the  Pasha, 
and  the  inhabitants  depend  on  the  rain  water  they 
preserve  in  cisterns.  The  ruins  of  Carthage  are 
about  ten  miles  N.E.  of  Tunis,  and  consist  of 
some  very  feeble  vestiges.  A  promontory,  named 
Cape  Carthage,  is  between  them  and  Tunis  j  and 
on  the  south  of  it,  ships  hanng  business  at  Tunis 
anchor. 

The  river  Mafura  empties  itself  into  the  Gulf 
of  Tunis,  on  the  west;  and  before  the  gulf,  west 
of  Cape  Bon,  is  the  island  Cimaro  al  Giamour, 
or  Zombino. 

From  Cape  Bon  the  cojwt  bending  to  the  S.S.  W. 

and 


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THE  MEDITERRAXiSAN — ^BARBART,  345 

«nd  S.E.  forms  a  great  gulf,  to  which  may  with  ^S!^  ^ 
propriety  be  given  the  name  of  the  Gulph  of  Tri* 
poll,  as  it  washes  the  whole  coasts  of  that  state. 

After  passing  Cape  Bon,  the  first  place  worthy 
of  notice  is  Hamiiiamet,  or  Mahomet.  Suza,  a 
strong  town,  with  a  castle,  on  a  rocky  promon-* 
tory,  off  which  are  five  islets;  it  has  a  good  port. 
Africa,  or  Mehedia,  a  small  town,  with  a  castle, 
on  a  point  of  land.    " 

The  Gulf  of  Cabes  (Lesser  Sj/rtis)  lies  between 
Cape  Vada,  or  St.  Paul,  on  the  north,  and  Cape 
Razelmaber,  or  Zoura,  on  the  south.  Off  the 
former  are  three  islands  (Cercince),  the  northern 
named  Oeto;  the  middle,  Kerkeni,  and  the 
south,  Fracoli.  The  passage  between  the  islands 
and  the  main  has  only  two  fathoms.  The 
chief  places  on  the  gulf  are,  Sfaxes  and  Cabes ; 
east  of  which  commences  the  territory  of  Tripoli. 


KINGDOM  OF  TRIPOLI. 

The  dominions  of  Tripoli,  including  the  great  ^'^,';;^  "^ 
desert  of  Barca,  are  limited,  on  the  west,  by  the 
river  Tabarca,  and  on  the  east  by  the  tower  of 
the  Arabs,  where  Egypt  is  usually  considered  to 
commence.  Of  this  extent  the  desert  of  Bdrca 
occupies  all  the  space  between  the  Gulf  of  Sidris 
and  Egypt. 

The  first  place  worthy  of  notice  is  Gerbi,  or 
Zerbi  Island  (^Lotopkagites),  on  the  east  side  of 

the 


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346  MAItlTIMC  0£OOILAPHT« 

»f*«^    the  Gulf  of  Cabes.    The  shores  of  the  island  are 
—      sull  covered  with  the  lotus,  from  whence  it  de- 
rived its  ancient  name. 

The  city  of  Tripoli  is  four  miles  in  circumfe- 
rence, and  has  a  castle,  which,  though  inhabited 
by  the  royal  family,  is  in  ruins;  and  the  town 
seems  to  be  altogether  fast  declining.  It  has  a 
triumphal  arch,  dedicated  to  Marcus  Aurelius, 
Antonin,  and  Lucius  Verus.  It  manufactures 
some  cloths. 

After  passing  Tripoli  we  meet  with  Lebida 
{Leptis-magnd)i  a  town  nearly  in  ruins,  with  a  good 
port  and  old  castle ;  and  proceeding  onwards,  ar- 
rive at  the  Gulf  of  Sidris  (Gre^  Syrtis)^  which 
has  on  the  west  Cape  Mesurata.  In  the  gulf  are 
the  bays  of  Sudica  and  Ludra ;  and  in  the  latter 
the  islands  Osellis  and  Ludra,  the  ancient  Syrtes. 
There  are  also  many  other  islands  and  shoals  in  the 
gulf. 

Between  the  Gulph  of  Sidris  and  Egypt  the 
coast,  affording  no  objects  of  commerce,  is  almost 
entirely  unvisited :  it  is  little  elevated  above  the 
sea,  and  its  navigation  is  dangerous,  particularly 
in  the  bight  called  the  Gulf  of  the  Ambs,  to  the 
east  In  this  gulf  the  Arabs  pretend  that  there  are 
three  ports,  and  describe  that  named  Port  Soly- 
man  as  an  excellent  harbour. 


ISLANDS 


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THE  MEDTTEERAKEAK'— BARBAllT.  347 

ISLANDS  AHD  REEFS  off  thb  COAST  of  BARBARY. 

EsQuiRKES,  or  Eskirks,  two  reefs  of  volcanic 
rocks,  north  and  south  of  each  other,  and  sur- 
rounded  by  a  bank  of  soundings.  Lat.  37^  47' 
long.  10^  55^  E.  His  majesty's  ship  Athenienne 
was  wrecked  on  this  reef. 

Keith's  reef  and  bank :  the  bank  is  threp  miles 
north  of  the  reef,  and  has  a  dry  spot  at  its  west, 
extremity.  Lat.  37''  49';  long.  11^  IC  east. 
Nelson's  Reef,  eighteen  miles  S.E.  of  the  Es- 
quirkes,  in  37^  34\ 

The  island  of  Alboran,  six  leagues  north  of 
Cape  Tres  Forcas,  is  small,  barren,  and  rocky :  it 
is  frequented  by  seals  and  sea  birds. 

The  island  of  Galita,  W.N.W.,of  Cape  Serrat, 
is  barren  and  uninhabited.  On  the  east  end  is  a 
high  peaked  mountain,  and  on  the  south  a  good 
road  in  easterly  winds.  It  is  surrounded  by  rocks 
above  i^aten 


EGYPT. 


The  limit  of  Egypt  on  the  west  has  never  been 
fixed,  either  in  ancient  or  modern  times,  the 
desert  which  separates  it  from  Barbary  not  being 
worth  the  enquiry.  On  the  east,  the  torrent  of 
El  Arisch  is  generally  considered  as  its  boundary. 
Nearly  the  whole  coast  is  low  and  sandy,  and  the 
approach  from  sea  is  dangerous ;  but  two  certain 
means  of  knowing  the  situation  of  a  ship  on 
making  the  land  are  given  :  1st  by  the  colour  o^ 
the  water,  which  to  the  west  of  Alexandria  is 

clear. 


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848^  MARirmE  geooeapht. 

clear^  but  muddy  to  the  e^t :  Sd.  the  land  to  the 
west  of  the  same  port  is  level  with  the  water, 
and  entirely  bare  of  trees,  while  to  the  east  it  is 
higher,  more  unequal,  and  covered  with  date 
tre^.  The  distance  from  the  shore  is  known  by 
the  depth,  which  decreases  a  fathom  in  every  mile  ; 
and  to  the  east  of  Alexandria,  the  depths  are 
much  less  than  to  the  west,  at  similar  distances 
from  the  land. 

The  Nile,  which  fertilises  the  valley  of  Egypt,, 
equally  celebrated  in  ancient  and  modem  history, 
and  the  largest  river  of  the  old  continent,  is  still 
imperfectly  known  in  the  upper  part  of  its  course. 
It  seems  to  be  formed  by  the  union  of  three 
rivers:  1.  the  Tacaza,  which  descends  from  the 
northern  side  of  the  moimtains  of  Abyssinia: 
2.  the  Blue  River  {Bahr  el  Azralcj^  which  from 
the  same  mountains  descends  into  the  plains  of 
Sennaar,  and  is  the  river  whose  source  was  visited 
by  Bruce,  in  about  8^  north.    The  third  is  called 
the  White  River  [Bahr  el  Ahiad)^  which  seems  to 
have  its  rise  in  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon,  in  the 
kingdom  of  Dar-fur,  and  is  probably  the  true 
Nile,  to  which  the  other  two  are  only  tributary. 
On  this  supposition,   its  course  is   about  2,000 
miles,  dming  which  its  stream  is  three  times  op- 
*  posed  by  ridges  of  mountains,  through  which  it 
has  forced  its  way,  and  at  each  forms  a  cataract, 
the  last  of  which  is  at  its  entrance  into,  Egypt,  near 
Syene,  and  is  generally  not  above  five  or  six  feet 
fall  J  below  this  the  greatest  breadth  of  the  river  is  a 
mile,  and  its  greatest  velocity  three  miles  an  hour ; 

m 


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THE  M£DIT£ltRAVEAN — EGYPT-  3*9 

in  its  ordinary  state,  it  is  navigable  for  vessels  of 
sixty  tons  to  the  cataract  of  Syene. 

The  river  begins  to  rise  at  Cairo  in  June  ^^  and 
is  at  its  height  in  October,  the  greatest  rise  being 
twenty-four  feet  The  waters  begin  to  subside  in 
the  same  month,  and  in  December,  being  again 
returned  to  their  bed,  the  fertile  mud  they  have 
left  on  the  low  grounds  is  sewn  with  grain. 
Where  the  stream  is  confined  within  high  banks, 
the  land  is.  fertilised  by  canals  cut  from  the  river, 
from  which  the  water  is  distributed  by  machines. 
The  Delta  was  anciently  also  overflowed,  and 
hence  many  of  the  towns  are  built  on  artificial 
elevations,  but  at  present  the  soil  is  so  much 
raised,  as  to  be  gener^ly  above  the  inundations.* 

The  Nile  abounds  in  fish,  particularly  a  species 
of  salmon  and  eels  (murcena  Romana)^  and  is  cele- 
brated  for  its  crocodiles  and  hippopotami, ^«)  which 
however  are  not  met  below  Assiut,  Amongst 
the  variety  of  water-fowl  that  frequent  k,  is  the 
turkey-goose  (janas  nihticd),  whose  flesh  is  es- 
teemed.   ' 

The  Nile  anciently  emptied  itself  by  seven 
mouths,  of  which  six  were  navigable.  The  western, 

-  or  Canopic  branch,  which  passes  by  Aboukir,  is 
now  dry  the  greatest  part  of  the  year.  The  second 
or  Bolbiiic  branch,  empties  itself  at  Rosetta.    It  j% 

two 

•  The  Delta  is  the  tract  of  land  contained  between  the  two  extreme 
branches  of  the  Nile  towards  the  sea,  and  received  its  name  from  its 

-  triangirhir  shape,  resembling  that  of  the  fourth  letter  of  the  Greek  alphabet. 
^.Thjs  denomination  is  also  applied  to  similar  islands  in  other  rirers. 


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850  MARITIME  G£00£APHV« 

two  mSee  wide,  but  is  crossed  by  a  bar,  on  wbidt 
18  a  very  dangerous  surf  in  strong  north  or  west 
winds,  leaving  only  a  few  shifting  channels  for 
the  passage  of  the  country  vessels,  named  Germs 
or  Scherms,  from  ten  to  sixty  tons,  and  many  of 
them  are  wrecked  every  year :  the  bar  is  besides 
dry  in  March  and  April.  The  depth,  at  ordinary 
times,  is  from  fom*  to  six  feet,  but  in  the  inunda^ 
tion,  with  the  winds  from  the  north,  there  is  at 
times  forty-one  feet  in  the  Boghaz,  or  channel. 
The  third,  or  Sebenetic  branch,  empties  itself  into 
Lake  Bourlos.  The  fotuth,  or  Phatnitic  branch,  is 
that  of  Damietta :  it  is,  like  that  of  Rosetta,  cross* 
ed  by  a  bar,  that  admits  only  small  vessels.  The 
fifrh,  or  Mendesien  branch,  is  lost  in  Lake  Men« 
zaleh,  but  its  opening  is  at  Dibeh.  The  sixth,  or 
TamtiCj  is  the  present  Om-Faredje.  The  seventh, 
or  Pehmac  branch,  is  now  entirely  filled  up,  but 
its  ancient  course  is  thought  to  be  visible,  and  is 
named  El-Farame. 

The  coast  of  Egypt  is  lined  by  lakes  or  lagoons, 
separated  from  the  sea  by  sandy  strips  of  land. 
That  of  Mareotis,  or  Alexandria,  the  western,  has 
not  above  eighteen  inches  water  in  winter,  and  in 
summer  is  quite  dry ;  though  it  has  no  cbmmum- 
cation  with  the  $ea  its  waters  are  brackish.  Lake 
Madiah  is  separated  from  Mareotis  by'  a  narrow 
tongue  of  land,  along  which  runs  the  canal  that 
supplies  Alexandria  with  water  from  the  Nile* 
Lake  Edko  and  Bourlos  are  next  east :  the  former 
was  formed  by  an  irruption  of  the  sea,  in  1778* 
Lake  Menzaleh  is  the  most  considerable  of  these 

lagoons. 


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THEMEDITERRANEAN-^EGYPT.  S51 

lagoons,  bdng  near  fifty  miles  long  and!  twelve 
broacL  It  forms  two  basins,  separated  from  the 
sea  by  a  narrow  strip  of  land,  and  from  each  other 
by  a  peninsula:  during  the  inundations  of  the 
Nile,  the  waters  are  fresh  but  grow  brackish  as  it 
subsides.  It  has  two  communications  with  the  sea, 
by  the  entrances  of  Dibeh  and  Om-Faredje, 
through  which,  in  the  summer,  N.W.  winds  some- 
times drive  a  great  volume  of  sea-water,  which, 
with  the  addition  of  the  inundation  of  the  river, 
raises,  the  water  in  the  lake  several  feet ;  and  when 
the  wind  again  blows  off  the  land,  the  water  rushes 
out  through  the  same  channels,  at  the  rate  of  three 
miles  an  hour.  The  general  depth,  at  common 
times,  is  only  three  feet,  but  in  the  direction  of 
the  Tanitic  and  Mendesien  branches  it  is  five  to 
fifteen  feet.  It  abounds  in  fish,  particularly  mul- 
let, whose  rows  are  prepared  into  boutaraga,  1,200 
boats  being  employed  in  the  fishery.  It  also 
abounds  with  wild  geese,,  swans,  ducks,  teals,  and 
widgeons.  It  has  several  islands,  particularly  the 
group  named  Matariah,  which*  are  inhabited  by 
fishermen. 

The  towers  of  the  Arabs,  nine  leagues  west  of 
Alexandria,  are  two  high  buildings  on  eminences, 
which  may  be  seen  four  leagues.  The  tower  of 
the  Marabout  is  on  the  point  of  land  which 
forms  the  west  limit  of  the  new  port  of  Alex- 
andria. 

Alexandria,  called  Escanderia  by  the  Turks, 
is  situated  amidst  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  city,  on 
the  artificial  isthmus  that  joins  the  island  of  Pharos 

to 


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352  MARITIME   GEOGRAPHT. 

to  the  coutipient ;  it  is  surrounded  by  .a  double 
wall,   thought  to  be  of  Sarescenic  construction, 
with  ruined  towers.     Tlie  streets  are  So  narrow 
that  mats  are  stretched  across  them  to  serve  as 
awnings.    The  houses  are  of  stone ;  the  population 
is  estimated  at  16,000  souls.     In  recent  times, 
Alexandria  was  the  entrepot  of  the  commerce 
between  Egypt,  Constantinople,  Leghorn,  Venice, 
and  Marseilles ;   its  chief  exports   being  rice  of 
the  Delta,  wheat  of  upper  Egypt,  Levant  cloths, 
soap,   Morocca  leather,   and  the  productions   of 
India  and  Eastern  Africa.     It  has  two  ports :  that 
on  the  north  of  the  island   (now  peninsula)  of 
Pharos  is  called  the  great   or  new  port,  and  is 
appropriated  to  the  vessels  of  Christians,  but  being 
exposed  to  the  north  and  the  bottom  rocky,  on 
the  appearance  of  bad    weather   ships    usually 
put  to  sea,  rather  than  run  the  risk  of  riding  out 
a  gale.     It  has  also  several  banks  and  grows  daily 
fihoaler,  so  that  large  ships  cannot  now  enter  it. 
Its  entrance  is  defended  by  the  insignificant  castles 
of  the  great  and. little  Riarillon  on  either  side. 
The  Old  Port  {EuriostoSj  or  of  safe  return),  is  on 
the  south  of  the  peninsula,  and  is  reserved  for 
Maliometan  vessels ;  it  is  well  sheltered  in  every 
direction,  and  has  safe  anchorage  in  five  to  six 
fathoms. 

Tlie  magnificent  column,  a  little  way  south  of 
Alexandria,  improperly  named  Pompey*s  Pillar, 
and  gerierally  thought  to  have  been  erected  to 
Severus,  is,  according  to  recent  researches,  the 
grand  column  of  the  ancient  Serapeum,  a  vast 

edifice 


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THE  MBD1TBEEANEAN-'^KGYPT>  ^S 

edifice,  consecrated  to  the  worsMp  of  an  Egyptian 
divinity.  Tlie  shaft  is  a  single  block  of  red 
granite,  six  feet  in  circumference ;  and  the  xiapital 
9nd  pedeslad  two  other  blocks :  the  whole^  ninety* 
one  feet  high.  Cleopsitra''S  needles  are  two 
obelisks  also  of  granite,  onfe  of  which  is  erect, 
asid  is  gixty  feet  high ;  the  other  is  overturned, 
broken,  and  almost  covened  with  sand;  Two  miles 
west  of  the  old  pcnrt  are  the  rexqwis  of  a  subterra- 
nean temple  of  Diana.  TheCataoomdiis  are  at  pre- 
sent the  retreat  of  chacals,  and  Cleopatra's  baths, 
into  wfaicli  the  waves  now  wash,  are  seen  on  the  shore* 

ABoitKiR,  four  leaguesr  east  of  Alexandria,  irii 
poor  village  of  100  inhabitants,  on  the  rocky  stH]^ 
ofland  tlMit  separates  Lake  Madiah  from  ^  i^a» 
and  oai  which  are  aeen  th^  ruins  of  the  'imcient  • 
Canopuf*  Its  bay,  celebrated  for  the  great  n^al 
victory  gained  over  the  French  fleet  by ' Adinii 
rml  Nekon,  in  1708,  is  eiftifely  exp<»Ked' to  the 
N.£.;i%ut  within  a  point,  on  whic^  ji  a  ettstle, 
•mallvesBels  may  lay  weB  i^lterisdv  '  ' ' 
^  RostoTA, JR^ueAiV/to^^  AnM^is  tWolengues 
within  tbe  bar  of  tiie  wcond  eattmte  of  tbb  ^NSe; 
amongst  date  trees  and  sycamoires.  It  has4!2,000 
idhabttants,  and  is  tbe  entrepot  4if  the  cotom^t^is 
between  Cbffro  md  Alexantiria*  The  passage  n^ 
the  river  is  defended  by  t^  sqnare  bsas&e  o( 
fit.  Jslian,  flanked  with  fout  toWer%  iand  by  ^er 
wnrka.  -.  •     ;  .'i  . 

'  Grajhs  Cairo,  catted  )6f  the  TvtA»tt^Kahif% 
w  the  '¥icUmo|is,  and  by  tbe  Aiisibs,  Misr,  UH^ 
e^ttUed^  ii  ntnated  near  th«' oa^t  bank  of  the 

VOL.  tL  2  a  Nile, 


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854  MARITIBCE  GEOORAPRYC 

Nile,  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Mokattan.  It  is  sar» 
rounded  by  a  stone  wall,  three  leagues  in  circuit, 
wkh  towers  Bt  intervals  of  100  paces,  and  is  sup* 
posed  to  contain  300,000  inhabitants,  Arabs, 
Copths,  (or  the  race  of  ancient  Egyptians),  Turics, 
Greeks,  Armenians,  Jews,  and  western  Christians. 
The  Arabs  are,  however,  thought  to  be  nine- 
tenths  of  the  whcde.  The  streets  arc  narrow, 
tortuous,  and  unpaved;  the  houses  lofty,  with 
terrace  roois }  many  mosques,  palaces  of  the  bays 
and  cofibe-houses.  The  citadel,  on  the  highot 
part  of  the  town,  occupies  a  considerable  spai^ 
but  is  in  ruins.  The  city  is  supplied  with  water 
from  the  Nile,  in  leadier  bags,  conveyed  on  camds 
or  asses.  Boulac,  which  is  the  port,  is  immecfi- 
ately  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  one  mfle  and 
a  half  from  the  city:  h6re  are  vast  magazines 
for  com.^"' 

Between  Rosetta  and  Damietta  the  coast  is 
low  and  sancty.  The  latter  town  is  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  fourth  branch  of  the  Nile,  two  leagum 
above  the  Baghaz,  amongst  rice  grounds.  Its 
population  is  variously  estimated  between  30  and 
80,000.  It  has  considerable,  trade,  bemg  die 
entrep6t  between  Syria  and  Egypt  Near  the 
fx>wn  are  two  large  salt  marshes,  in  which  salt  is 
formed  by  scdar  evaporation. 

To  the  east  of  Lake  Meozaleh  are  seen  the 
ruins  of  Pelusiam,  from  which,  to  £1  Arischy  te 
shore  presents  only  down$  of  moving  saiML  The 
andeat  Idee  S&i>onis  was  in  this  space :  and  netf 
^e  point  of  Karason  Pompey  was  assassinated* 

ElAcisch 


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THE  MBPIIS&RANSA^ — BQftn.  9fi( 

£3  Ariach  (JRhmocorvra)  n  two^  oqlea  and  a  half 
from  the  sea,  with  a  squaiefort  and  jtown  at  eadi 
angle.    It  was  ne^ly  laid  in  ruins  by  tibe  Fre^ndi* 

The  Isthmus  cS^xx^  which  separateathe  Med^ 
terranean  and  Red  Se%  and  unites  Africa  and 
Asia,  is  gener^y  low,  composed  of  calcarioouft 
sbdly  jfock,  freestone,  and -silex,  and  ip.gr/M^ 
part  covered  with  sand,or  liriK^kish  marshes*  Tl^ 
brea4th  t£  the  isthmifa  between  Suez  and  the  lailqe 
Bifket-el-Ballah,  whicb  joins  that  of  J^enzalebl 
is  59,2^  Frendxtoiaefu^  From  the  fthores  of  t^ 
Red  Se%  ji^  indination^f  the  istlpajija.is^n^^fcs^ 
to  the  Mediterranean;  the  lev^  of  this  lattieiF 
being  tJ^rty-four  ieet  lowcjr  thfin  that  of  the  fiaj^ 
mer.  In  die  middle  oi  the  isthmus  is ,  a  hollow^ 
^med  the  ffitter  Lake,  whk;h  is  fifty-eight  )^ 
loweic:  than  the  leye^  of  liaiie  Rod  Sm»  whose  Wd|«ff# 
would  fill  it,  were  they  not^  )cept  out  by  a  sandy 
isthmus,  elevated  (me  to  three  feet  above  tl^  sea. 
Some  naturalists  have  supposed  an  ancient  com* 
munication  between  the  Mediterranean  and  Red 
Sea ;  \fVLt  had  such  a  ccmmuinication  ever  existed^ 
it  would  probably  still  do  so,  and^  at  all  evenly 
there  is  to  be  found  no  historical  or  tradition^ 
evidence  of  the  fact 

But  though  no  natural  communication  ha^ 
existed  between  the  two  seas  since  the  memory,  of 
history,  the  industry  of  man  had,  in  the  earliest 
ages,  attempted  the  creation  of  such  a  communi- 
cation, the  remains  of  which  are  still  to  be  dis- 
tinctly traced.  Hiis  great  canal  onnmenced  at 
Bdbeis,  on  the  Pehmac  branch  of  tiie  Nile,  and 

8  a  9  curved 


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0^  ■  XARIttlffi  GM&AkTWti 

(Httvdd  Mttifd  to  th6  ncn^,  thfotigh  th«  l^tdky  <Hf 
Aitd>6-TMrtiiylat«  whose  kv^t  is  tbirty^ine  feet 
bdlow  that  of  the  Red  Seft»  jmd  ift  whidi  several 
poftiotf^  of  tlie  eftHAl  are  so^  well  preserved  that 
they  r^qoire  Kttle  iMore  thati  cleAomg  ottt  $  ft-om 
hetioe  ft  ratt  thfoti^  the  Bitti^  1j«ke,  beyond 
mrhidi  the  V6stiges  a^n  i^pear  in  the^lsthnra^ 
H^Hch  separated  this  holloa  fi^om  the  Red  Sm. 
"Slut  epoch  d*  the  ^matlotl  of*  this  citoia]  i^-ttn- 
IttMyWd,  and  it  appears.  i!mM|' its  naviga^Sow^^teas 
tf>aiidofted  befbre  the  tim&iofVTity,  who^des<itibes 
9ta^  otffy  ekt^H^g  fl-oth'th^*I«l3e<to'the  tiitter 
Ijtkt.  Th^  'Aithf 'Winters,'  however,  attest  that  it 
ira*  r*pair^  'by  the  Calif  Omar,  and  tt^-tised 
ftetween  the  years  644  and  7O7,  Wheh'  it  was 
dosed  by  order  of  the  reigftin^  Calift  in\>rder -to 
«M  ofTtho  prcr^sions  from  k  i«bel  diHefi  'tMrii^ 
tliO  Flinch  Oltoripataon  <bf  ^jgyj^t  the  ^iesdlbi^ 
And  utility  of  re^Mtkblishihgit  weM»  disiitMsed» 
«ttd  th«  conclusions  were,  thattt  might;  be*&fltM;ted 
«t  little  expense;  but  that  as  the  ' iia*^%a!tiMi 
'WOttld  d^end  on  tihe  i^e  ahd  ihU  trf*  Oe  Hfle, 
and  on  th6  monsoons  in  the  ^HA  Bttoi  icttA  as 
■diese  conditJDtis  do  not  coimMe  !k>  ass  to  alRird 
an  uninterrupted  navigation^  the  utiBty  Of  Hie 
tmd  woidd  be  of  mitM  iD^poiUhbe  to  com- 
lAerce.  i  •-  t 

'       THE 


■■>,'. 


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(  m  ) 


THE  BLACK  SEA. 

» 

The  Bbck  Sm,  Fontus  Mtmm^*  (^tfae asdeott^  ni 
extends  between  forty^H^e  aod  fyvtymx  Atgnw  of 
htitude.  lu  greatest  lengthy  twm  ihi^  Qowt  of 
Aoumelit  to  tibe  mouth  of  the  PJiMis,  19  iZiO 
Imgues }  and  itM  greatest  tMreadth  eighty  leagues 
firom  Cape  Bfthe,  m  Aoatcdisb  te  Odc^  Itie 
modem  name  of  Black  $&  is  prdtmHy  fron  K^ 
fiiequent  thkk  fogs  ti»at  cover  it,  aiMl  which  feem 
te  be  caused  by  the  mwmtfom  that  suiround  it 
preyeoting  the  escape  of  the  vapows  that  adae  * 
£t>m  its  surface. 

The  Bbdc  Sep  k  ^rt:ered  from  <^  M^tenra- 
nean  through  the  Channel  of  the  Dardaoelkfp  the 
£ea  of  Marmora,  and  the  Channel  of  Conatenti- 
Bople.  The  anc)^its»  and  after  them,  niany  m^ 
dern  natsiralirtSi  are  of  opixiion  tibkat  this  sea  wia 
originatty  a  lake,  focoied  m  a  valley  by  the  watmi 
'of  the  riregrs,  whidi  accumidating  in  tl^  oouraeef 
jiges,  aticfifthrose  above  the  bacrieis  that  confined 
^em,  md  opened  a  passage  for  themselves  into 
the  Mediterranean,  through  the  diannels  above 

£  A  3  mentioned. 

•  The  first  Aav^ator  of  Greece  wbo  ventured  on  this  sttk,  having  heen 
repulsed  or  massacred  bj  the  ferodovis  inhabitants  of  the  coasts,  g«re  k  the 
.HSne  ^  i^09i99  Awimf-^iWBk,  <f  uofrlewdlx  to  stouigen."  TKe  i<q)eat#d 
Ti^tsof  the  Greeks,  however,  softening  the  manners  of  these  tribes,  Grecian 
colonies  were  establi^ed,  and  the  word  Axinot  mm  changed  -ibr  MfuHmtf^ 


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Riven. 


S5B  MARITIME  GEOGRAPHY. 

mentioned.  Polybius  and  Bu£fon  are  of  opinion 
that  the  Black  Sea  will  in  time  be  filled  up  by 
the  mud  carried  into  it  by  rivers,  as  well  as  by  the 
diminution  of  the  waters  of  these  rivers,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  degradation  of  ^e  mountains ;  and 
it  is  said  that  a  considerable  decrease  of  depth  is 
observed  to  have  taken  place  in  the  Sea  of  Azoph. 
Tlie  Black  Sea  receives  a  considerable  portiion 
of  the  fresh  waters  of  Europe  as  well  as  of  Asia 
Minor ; — ^by  the  Danube,  which  collects  the  waters 
of  a  great  part  of  Germany,  Hungary,  Bosnia, 
Servia,  Transylvania,  &c. ;  by  the  Dniester  and 
Dnieper,  which  receive  those  of  a  part  of  Rtissia 
and  Poland ;  by  the  Phasis,  which  collects  those  tif 
Mingrelia ;  by  the  Sangaris,  and  others,  from  the 
coast  of  Anatolia}  and  by  the  Kuban  and  the 
Don,  through  the  Cimmerian  Bosphorus.'  The 
quantity  of  fresh  water  ihus  conveyed  into  this 
-sea  renders  it  so  little  salt  that  it  freezes  with  a 
moderate  degree  of  cold,  and  the  mud  carried  intl> 
it  causes  its  waters  to  be  very  turbid.  It  is  calcu- 
lated that  the  fresh  wat^r  received  by  the  ]lack 
Sea  is  nine  times  more  than  what  it  dischaigesr  into 
the  Mediterranean  through  die  Bosphoms,  and 
that  the  overplus  is  carried  off  by  evaporation 
alone,  llie  streams  of  die  riyers  produce  vicd^it 
currents,  particularly  in  summer,  when  they  are  in- 
creased by  the  melting  of  the  snows  j  and  in  strong 
winds  acting  against  these  currents,  a  high  chop* 
ping  sea  is  produced,  which,  together  with  tliefogSy 
makes  the  navigation  of  this  sea  extremely  dan- 
gerous, particularly  to  the  small  and  badly  cc«- 

structed 


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ITHE  BLACK  SEA.  S59 

itfucted  vessels  of  the  Greeks  and  Turks,  that 
principaUy  navigate  it :  for  being  unable  to  lay  to 
when  it  over  blows^  they  are  obliged  to  run  before 
the  storm  j  and  if  they  miss  their  port,  which  is 
cdllen  the  case,  from  their  ignorance  of  the  proper 
use  of  the  compass,  they  are  certain  to  be  wrecked* 
Independent  of  thes^  daQgers,  the  sea  is,  however, 
free  firpm  any  others,  having  neither  islands,  rocks, 
or  shoals,  in  the  general  track  of  navigation* 

The  general  climate  of  the  Black  Sea  is  cold  <^^<«' 
and  humid,  and  there  are  many  records  of  the 
Bo^hcH'us. being  entirely  frozen  over.  At  Con- 
stantinople it  is  not  uncommon  for  a  severe  cold  in 
winter  to  succeed  to  a  great  heat ;  and,  on  the 
other  hand,  spow  often  falls  in  June,  so  that  the 
Turks  say,  that  at  Constantinople  the  summer  and 
winter  shake  hands. 

The  Black  Sea  possesses  many  of  the  fishes  enu-  "'fc* 
merated  in  the  account  of  the  Mediterranean ; 
particularly  the  tunny  fish,  which,  as  we  have  al^ 
ready  lioticed,  enters  this  sea  to  spawn,  and  some- 
times in  such  vast  shoals  that  the  port  of  Constan- 
tinople  is  encumbered  with  them.  The  other  fish 
mentioned  as  most  abundant  are  mackarel,  sole,  tur- 
bot,  whiting  and  roach :  some  writers  also  speak 
of  herrings  entering  this  sea  in  shoals,  but  they 
are;,  doubtiess,  only  large  sprats ;  their  appearance 
is  considered  the  sign  of  a  good  sturgeon  season. 
Several  of  these  fish  are  salted  and  gent  to  Con- 
stantinople, where,  from  their  cheapness,  they  form 
a  great  part  of  the  food  of  the  lower  classes  qf 
Greeks,  Armenians,  and  Jews.    Of  the  rows  of 

2  4  4  the 


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860  MARITIME  GEOGRAPHT. 

the  sturgeon  (acipenser  stario)  of  &€  Dttrabe 
and  Dnieper,  a  gr^t  quantity  of  caviar  is  flude^ 
and  their  sounds  are  converted  into  isinglass. 
^ErUMpMi.  The  canal  of  the  Dardandles,  the  ancient  H^UeM* 
ftmt^  is  sixteen  leagues  in  length,  and  resembla 
an  inunense  river  flovring  majestically  between  two 
chains  of  elevated  and  fertile  hills.  It  is  without 
rocks  or  shoals,  and  has  in  some  parts  a  depth  of 
sixty  fathoms,  and  generally  eight  or  nineiathoms 
within  a  mile  of  the  shore^  The  objects  that  first 
attract  the  eye  in  entering  firom  the  Ardiipelago 
are  the  first  Castles  of  Europe  and  Asia.  The  for- 
mer, called  by  the  Twcks^Setid  Bafir,  the  barrier  of 
the  sea,  Is  situated  at  tiiie  extremity  of  the<  ThracUm 
ChersmesuSj  and  as  well  as  a  little  village  dose  to 
it,  is  supposed  to  be  built  out  of  the  ruins  cS  the 
ancient  Eleus.  The  tomb  of  Protesilaus  is  iden- 
tified in  a  mound  near  the  castle^ 

On  the  Asiatic  shore,  opposite  theTiist  Castle  oi 
£ur<^,  is  Cape  Janissary  of  the  Eurc^eans,  of 
St*  Mary  of  the  Ghreeks  {Sigmvm)^  near  whidi  is  the 
little  town  of  Yefmi-shehir^^  and  half  a  league 
within  the  cape  is  the  First  Castle  of  Asia,  called  by 
the  Turks  Kovm-kakssiy  or  the  Sand  Castle,  5,400 
yards  distant  from  the  first  of  Europe*  Between 
Cape  Janissary  and  the  castle  are  two  moundsi 

au{^po6ed 


*  The  English  and  other  Europeans  Improperly  eall  this  C^)e  Joniftory 
fappoaing  the  Turkish  word  to  he  Yemd-^ikirri,  ttitw  mllUUy  tiw  liiM  iC 
a  celebrated  corps  of  Turkish  troops.  The  proper  word  is  »iifii-#MUf» 
new  town. 


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TRB  BLACK  S£A«-*TimXET.  861 

toyposed  telle  the  tombs  of  Achilles  and  Patrodus* 
A  little  eastof  the  castle  the  Simois,  Mendere  Saui 
of  the  Turics>  empties  itself  which  though  it  dries 
in  SHSimer^  is  the  most  considerable  stream  that 
fiOls  into  the  Hellespont.*  East  of  the  First  Casde 
of  Asia  is  Barber^s  Point,  Kepos  Bouran  c£  the 
Turks^  (Dardanus%  on  which  stood  the  City  oC 
Dardamu. 

Four  leagues,  within  the  First  Castles,  the  channel 
is  contracted  by  a  promontory  on  each  shore  to 
9^700  yards,  and  this  strait  is  properly  the  Darda- 
n^es ;  on  each  promontory  is  a  castle*  The  cape^ 
on  tiie  European  side,  is  the  ancient  Q/noaema 
on  which  was  the  tomb  of  Hecuba*  The  caatie 
on  it  k  called  the  Seoood  Castle  of  Europe,  and 
by  the  Turks,  Kelidar  Bair,  the  Padlock  of 
the  Sea.  The  Second  Castle  of  Asia  is  named 
SulUmia  Kalesd,  the  Sultana's  Castle,  and  vu]gady 
Oumak  Kalesst^  the  Castle  of  Pottery,  £rom  the 
quantity  of  fragments  of  pottery  found  near  it. 
Qose  to  it  is  a  town  of  4^000  inhabitants^  chiefly 
Jews,  who  live  by  supplying  ships  passix^  widi 
provisions.  The  ancient  Rhodms^  an  insignificant 
torrent,  washes  the  walls  of  the  Second  Castle  of 
Asia  on  the  south. 

After  passing  the  Second  Castles,  the  dialmel 
wklens,  and  on  tiie  European  dione  are  three  coves» 
Or  tho  first  (the  ancient  JPwius  Caba^  oelehratsd 
for  the  naval  victory  gained  by  the  Athenians  met 

tfat 

•  Hflcent  researches  prove  that  Aie  Scamander  unhes  Us  waters  to  tte 
SiMia  Mm  it  m4MS  ^  mtosi^iii. 


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SM  liilRITIMJB  GEMt&APHY^ 

over  ^  Lacedemonians^  wfaicli  lost  the  fatler  tfa« 
sovereignty  of  the  Hellespcmt),  is  the  town  of 
May  ta  (Madytos)^  inhabited  chiefly  by  Greek  sea* 
men.  The  second  cove,  named  by  the  ancients 
KailoSf  on  account  of  its  depth,  has  still  the  little 
corrupted  one  of  KoiUa  or  KiUa.  The  thiid  cove 
is  the  ancient  port  of  Sestos,  and  is  called  by  the 
Turks  Ak  Bachi  Liman,  the  Port  of  the  White 
Head.  On  a  hill  rising  behind  it  are  the  ruins  of 
the  fort  of  Zeminia,  the  first  place  tak^  by  the 
Turks,  when  they  crossed  the  Hellespont  under 
the  Sultan  Orcan,  in  135G.  The  site  of  the  an- 
cient Sestos  is  still  to  be  traced  by  some  vestiges 
two  miles  east  of  May  ta. 

On  the  Asiatic  shore,  0{^[K)site  Sestos,  is  the  pro- 
montoiy  of  Negara,  which  again  narrows  the 
channd  to  2,700  yards,  and  seems  to  close  the 
pasrage.  This  point  is  thought  to  bethe  promon* 
tory  of  Abgfdos ;  and  close  to  it  are  some  feeble 
vestiges  of  buildings,  consisting  of  heaps  of  rubbi^ 
in  which  are  found  fragments  of  bricks,  pottay, 
granite  and  marble,  indicating  the  site  of  the  an- 
cient city:  the.^mce  occupied  by  these  remains 
is  now  planted  with  fruit  trees,  and  enclosed  within 
a  wall. 

.  Beyond  Point  Negara  the  channel  varies  in 
breadth  from  three  quarters  to  a  league  and  a  half. 
On  the  European  shore  the  Egospotamos^  or  Goat 
River,  Kararwa  sotu  of  ^tbe  Twks,  empties  itself; 
tt  is  a  small  stream,  on  whose  banks  was  fought 
the  decisive  battle  which  put  an  end  to  the  Pelo- 
ponnesian  war.    On  the  same  shore  is  Gall^)oli 

{CaHipolis), 


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TB(£  BLACk  8EA««-4nEnUOKT«  86S 

{QMpOtts)^  five  leagues  frcmi  the  entrance  of  the 
sea  of  Marmora,  containing  16,000  inhi^ttants. 
On  the  (^posite  coast  is  Lampsaki,  the  and^stt 
JjompsaoiSs  celebrated  for  the  worship  of  Briapu8» 
now  a  poor  village. 

Vessels  of  war  of  all  nations  in  amity  ¥dth  the 
A>rte  are  permitted  to  enter  the  channel  of  the 
Dardanelles,  and  to  anchor  between  the  first  and 
second  castles,  but  on  no  account  are  allowed  to 
pass  the  latter  without  an  express  permission  frcmi 
Constantinoj^e.  Merchant  vessels  may  proceed 
direct  to  Constantinople,  but  on  their  return  they 
are  obliged  to  anchw  either  off  Point  Negara,  or 
before  the  village  of  the  Dardanelles,  where  th^ 
are  visited,  in  prder  to  ascertain  th&t  they  have 
proper  clearances,  and  that  there  are  no  prdiibitr 
ed  goods,  runaway  slaves,  or  sul]gects  of  the  Port^ 
not  Mussulmans,  on  board. 

From  the  Dardanelles  we  enter  the  sea  of  Mar^  £^ 
mora,  the  ancient  Propontis,  which  is  fifty  leagues 
l<mg  and  from  thirty  to  six  broad.  It  receives  no 
river  of  consequence ;  that  of  Mikalitza,  the  anr 
cient  Byndacmy  whioh  empties  itself  on  the  Asia* 
tic  coast,  is  the  most  considerable. 

Following  the  European  coast  of  the  sea  of 
Marmora,  we  meet  in  succession  the  ruins  of 
Pactia,  called  hy  the  Turks  Paulio  Paulino,  Ga» 
DOS,  Rodesto,  1^  TchkudagU  oi  the  Turks  (an* 
cient  Bisanthe  and  Mhaedestus),  situated  on  the 
declivity  of  a  hill,  and  which  supplies  Constan- 
tinople with  provisions.  Point  Rodesto  is  a  re- 
markable head,  higher  than  the  land  on  the  eatt 

and 


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8M  KASnBB  ^OO&AfHT^ 

nd  west  Ecekli  or  Raidia  i£btacUa\  ftippMoA 
to  have  been  founded  b]r  UercidB%  faat  tiie  »• 
flMOM  of  an  am^tiieatre  and  atfaar  aiitk]tiitie6« 
Qjibma  (SM^mria),  a  sniaM  town  oo  a  anre»  wluck 
receives  several  rivulets ;  it  sends  com  to  Ckm^ 
ftantinople.  St.  StqdMUio  consifits  of  thirty  well* 
built  hoiM6s»*  inhiUted  bj  Greeks ;  aad  a  maao- 
factory  of  gm^iowder  for  the  Turkkdi  govectw 
neot  Near  it  are  two  lagoons,  s^arated  from 
the  aea,  of  which  they  weoe  anciently  gulfe,  by 
marshy  strips  of  land,  of  modem  fanoatkm ;  tliey 
Mill  however  have  comnounication  with  the  ie8# 
and  the  channd  into  the  largest  is  crossed  by  thvce 
Tast  bridges.*  They  i^ound  in  fi^  paiticnlazly 
eaip,  which  are  said  to  gfow  to  the  si;Ee  of  sixty 
and  even  eighty  pounds. 

On  the  Asiatic  shore  of  Ae  tea  of  Marmora, 
prolonging  it  from  the  entrance  of  the  Daidft* 
neOes,  are  Beroumdere  $  Caiaboa  {Priapus%  horn 
which  to  the  peninsula  of  Ci^icus  the  coast  k  low 
and  iwampy,  and  has  three  rivers  ^  the  Ormtkmf 
wow  called  Out'Soda-souij  whose  waters  are  ab- 
aoibed  in  a  marsh ;  the  (Esepus^  Satalidere  of  llie 
Turks,  which  empties  kMeif  by  two  mouths,  and 
the  l\ir96us. 

Cizicus,  formerly  an  idand,  is  now  joined  to 
the  mcun  by  a  natural  isthmus  hdf  a  league  broad. 
It  is  twenty  leagues  m  cireuit,  very  moimtainoos, 
•■..>.  but 


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hat  prodneet  a  oonindendide  q^mtily  of  vfahe  Jj^f^ 
witte  imd  oil, '^d  its  woods  abound  with  g«mow  "" 
Its  pcyolBtiaii>  coiiifdsed  oC  dO/)00  Qredcs  and 
TiMcBt  occupy  twenty  vflh^es^  6f  whic^  Artakki 
(4rMe),  tlieptmcipaU  is  composed oaly of  wood^ 
en  huts;  it^sxm  the  &W*  pik of  the  petiitisuhi^ 
i^ud  has  a  good  road. .  lAi  league  east  of  it  are 
gome  magnificeiit  trnoa  («if  the'  anctent  city  of 
CbocuB.  The  bvf,  fixniiediby  the  pemnsida  on 
the  west,  is  called  the  Gulf  of  Daidina,  and/that 
tetfaeeasttfaeGokf  of  nuuMBo:  On  the  coiiti- 
MiMal  sfaoM  of  jLfae&mierisPMtStPeter,  and 
oti  tiie  krtter  the  toivtt  ^  Ftaiormo  (2\i»iofiiiM)» 
itttfoottdeiiby  pbmti^tions  ikP  mulberries  atid  vines, 
and  having  4,000  inhabitants.  Off  the  west^end 
4)i  th6  peDiMalaiu*e  tikie  soiall' islands,  of  ?^ch 
the  Ingest,  Aferfa  and  ^abl«r,  are  the  ai^^kM 
Ophktm  MA^Miabmi  r^Q  Mktiift  are  Auzetfitht  ' 

tte»iti«w«iiwhi,  I^uH  Mamdto^S&Geofge'knd'St^ 
Simeon.  Off^the  eeytend  of  thepebm^  i^the 
«andSfc'AilA-eWw  ■''->'>    •    ^         '     '•  '.  -  o.:. 

TM)  MiluOitta  (Jl^ndhida)  .ettptios  itsdf  mmlg 
muddy  islands,  but  is  navigable  ibr  Ui|§o^baal8  te 
tlMitmm  of  the  MUM  mme,  sixteen  leagttes^&bm 
lis  mouthy  th«  Ufersoui  {Bbpsim)  eittpcies itself 
Mac  of  ^the'Mikalitta.  -         .  ^-i  :  ^'^    ''>'-''  ' 

The  Oulf  of  IfMidania  or  *Minidm(0te9>  rotk 
ktd  the  i)sad  'tea  leagues^'  between  two  ridges «f 
iMimtains.  On  the  south  shore,  five  leagues  from 
the  entrance,  is  Moudania,  on  a  creek,  and  on  the 
site.  <^  thi^  >&deAt  i^     and  Jjpamea;  it  is  die 

-•  «u  neaiesl 


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866  .  XAErentt  0eo6rasht. 

te^ifer.  nearest  port  to  Brasa,*  of  which  it  exports  tlitf 
—  aaltpetre,  white  wine,  .and  silk.  At  the  head  of 
the  gulf  is  the  village  &£  Kemlek  or  Ghemlek  of 
the  Turks»  called  Kios  or  Ghio  by  the  Ghreeks^ 
on  the  site  of  the  anoient  Gus.  It  js  inhabited  by 
8»000  Ghreeks,  and  exports  winti  ^^  wheat,  fruits 
and  Bilk  to  Constantino^e* .  Half  a  league  watix 
of  the  viUagei»  on  the  \)anks  of  the  ancient  CiuSp 
Gt'  Ascamas,  is  a  buildiitg  place  for  Turkish  veasda 
of  war. 

The  Gulf  of  Is<4iikmid  {Astacus  or  Astaeaimai) 
is  surrounded  by  steep  and  {HCturesque  dioces. 
Is-NuufiD  (Nkodemia  and  (MUo,  th^  capital  of 
fiythnia)  is  on  the  north  sboi^  and  .cwtains 
80»000  inh^taots. 

G^eaiah»  north  of  the  Gulf  of  Iainikmid>  is^ 
smAll  well  built  towb,  supposed  to  obcupy  the  sit? 
^  the  ancient  Ljfbiuih  where  Hamjihul  lo$t  his 
life.  Pantike  (Fanticbitm)  and  Kadirkeui  (villt^e 
of  tjsie  judge)  are  poor  viUages;  the.hitt^  is  oa 
the  site  of  the  ancftnt  Cakedomh  ^^  on  a  Uttie 
stream  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  entraiu^e 
af  the  Boqphorus. 

The  Pfvponik  has  some  islands  worthy  (^  no* 
tf«e ;  atom^  which  that  of  Marm<Mrat  w  Mermerg 
which  has  given  its  modem  name  to  this  bi^ii^  is 
the  most  c^Dnstderable.  The  name  of  Mermer  is 
sj^ficative  of  this  island  being  a  wUd  rock  of 

white 

.  •  Bnitt  or  Plii8a»  %  dty.of  60,000  inhabiUiitt^  «t  tlie  fool  of  Mooat 
Olpnpus;  it  has  a  great  trade,  the  csraranft  between  Constantiiiopfe, 
^jrmk,  Aleppo^  and  Ifpahaa  pMing  throo^  lu 


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Tilfi  06LAC1:  8£A<-^Tinat:T.  367 

«#hita  marble  veined  with  Uue.    It  is  the  ancient  ^^  ^«'- 
Proconeszis,  Elephonesus^  BndNevris;  is  separated      *^ 
ftom  the  peninwla  of  Cizicus  by  a  channel  one        ;^ 
league  broad,  and  is  three  leagues  distant  from 
Point  Rodesto,   on  the  Eorcqiean  shore.    It  is 
twenty  leagues  in  circuit,  is  composed  of  two 
large  hiUB^  extremely  barren,  and  inhabited  only 
by  a  few  Ghseks.      On  the  soutli  side  ate'two 
small  ports,  and  off  the  same  side  twd  low  islands, 
caUed  Avwsia  and  CoutallL    Off  the  N.W.  end 
joe  two  other  islands,  named  Gaidoura  and  Ka»- 
moli. 

Twelve  leagues  east  of  Marmora  and  three 
£rom  the  coast  of  Asia  is  Ka}o-Ltmno,  or  th^ 
Monk^s  Island,  low,  fertile,  and  inhabited  by 
4ome  Greeks. 

The  Prince's  Islands  (Defnon-^sm)  are  oppo^it^ 
Pilntike,  on  the  coast  of  Amt,  and  six  miles  dh^ 
-tant^  hmskg  about  ten  miles  from  Constantin(^eu 
fibey  are  nine  in  number,  four  larger  and  five 
le^er;  the^^rmer  are  Prota,^ntig€»ia,  both  very 
atenle ;  Chalkis,  or  Kalkis  {KaMtis)^  has  its  name  ir^u^voo. 
^om  ajcgp;>ar  mine  of  ancient  celebrity.  On  its 
jiwtiL  side  is  a  cove,  called  Cham-Liman,  on  the 
•pert  of  the  Poplars.  Prinkipos,  the  largest,  though 
jRoIicamc  and  rugged  is  fertile*  and  has  a  village 
of  S,000  Greeks  on  the  east  side ;  this  island,  as 
>we91  aa  Kalkis,  has  many  Greek  convents  on  emi- 
nences. The  five  lessor  islands  are  Coneglio,  or 
.Babbit  Island,  so  named  from  the  ^great  number 
.  of  wild  rabbits  which  are  its  only  inhabitants ;  it 
is  entirely  conqpoied  of  rocks.    Qxia,  Plata,  or 

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868  uABjma  geograprt^ 

Low  Isl^d,  and  two  barrio  mmdt&^'totihf  ctm^ 
plete  the  number. 

The  Channel  of  ConBtatttinopie^  or  B^horm 
c£  ITirace,  is  six  leagues  and  a  hajf  ioi^  and 
from  600  to  S,000  yards  broad,  windi^  like  a 
river  between  two  chains  of  mounteini,  wboae 
summits  aie  clothed  with  wood,  their  BiAks  cul- 
tivated^ and  the  margin  of  level  land  which  bcnr- 
ders  the  water  covered  with  vill^es,  which  on 
like  European  aidi^  form  aA  ahaost  .usinferni^ed 
chain  horn  Constantinople  to  the  enHGanee  of  the 
Black  Sea. 

The  first  object  ttiat  seises^  on,  and  astooishes 
the  ^1^  on  entering  the  channel,  ia  thei  eitj  of 
Coi<STAMTiNOPi.£,  c^Ucd  Sta0HK>ul  by  theTui^ 
and  the  ancient  Byzantium.  It  is  situated  oa  a 
point  of  land  washed  by,  the  sea  c£  Marmora  on 
one  dde,  and  by  Jdie/port  on  the*. other*  A)i- 
ptioaduoi;  it  by  water^  its  appeatance  is  oiocH;  mag* 
Dificent,  beii^  famlt  on  seiiieral  elevstticms,  and 
presenting  an  imposing  Ji!iixture  of  the  niinantaof 
mosques,  and  handsome  looking  hedaks,  inteiw 
jpersed  with  trees.  The  charm,  hoi^nevmv'^^^anflBhcs 
-on  landing :  the  streets  aie  fimnd  to  hk  narro*^ 
and  the  houses  buiU  of  day  and  W|D6d^»  ^  Tlie*  po- 
pulation, including  tia«i  aikborbSr  is  estimated  at 
400,000  souls.       ;    '  J      . 

TheportofConstahtiBople  (Quif  if  CmiS^m 
on  the  east  of  the  city,  whi^  it  separatea&cm 
the  suburbs  of  Galata and  Pera:  itisi^^SDOf^wiv 
(three  smies  and  three  qnarters  neanHiy)  in  lei^tf^ 
and  its  mean  breadth  is  600  y«nii«<    Th0  ^^vess  is 

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TME  BLACK  SEA— TURKEY;  869 

€asy  with  every  wind  but  the  north,  and  this  sel-  sosph^ni. 
dom  blows»  and  never  for  more  than  a  few  hours 
Et  a  time.  The  port  has  besides  another  great  na- 
tural advantage,  in  always  keeping  itself  from 
filling  up,  for  the  current  which  issues  from  the 
Black  Sea^  striking  against  the  Seraglio  point 
(the  West  point  of  the  entrance)  enters  the  port 
im  the  side  of  the  city,  and  making  its  circuit, 
runs  out  again  along  the  opposite  shore ;  this  ro-> 
tatory  current,  combined  with  that  produced  by 
sev^nd  streams  of  fresh  water  which  empty  them' 
selves  into  its  head^  washes  out  all  the  filth  thrown 
into  the  port  by  the  inhabitants,  which  would  others 
wise  very  soon  fill  it  up. 

The  marine  arsenal  is  on  the  east  side  of  the 
port,  and  consists  of  dwellings  for  the  guards  and 
Workmen,  and  some  sheds  cbntaining  a  small  quan- 
tity oi  naval  stores^  the  whole  in  a  miserably 
neglected  state.  The  Bagne^  within  the  arsenal, 
is  a  depot  for  criminals  condemned  to  public  labour^ 
Its  well  as  for  prisoners  of  war. 

The  famous  castle  of  the  Seven  Towers,  is  at 
the  west  extremity  of  the  city  :  it  is  of  great  ex- 
tent, surrounded  by  a  wall  flanked  with  large 
towers.  Here  the  foreign  ministers  are  usually 
imprisoned  on  a  rupture  with  their  nations^ 

On  the  Asiatic  shore  of  the  Bosphorus,  opposite 
Constantinople,  and  about  a  mile  distant,  is  Scutari 
XChrysopolis)y  which  is  considered  as  a  suburb  of 
the  capital,  and  has  80,000  inhabitants. 

The  defences  of  the  Bosphorus,  though  latterly 
greatly  increased,  are  still  insufficient  *to  prevent 

yoh.  u.  2  b  the 


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S^O  M^uurriME  geoorafht. 

the  passage  being  forced  by  t  fleet  frov  tb^Bkcil 
Sea.  In  entering  the  channel  from  the  Sea  cf 
Marmora,  we  first  meet  with  Rmmeli-Hmar  (the 
fort  of  Roumelia),  two  leaguQ$  east  of  Constantly 
nople,  and  on  a  promontory  ealled  Kislar  hour^tm 
(Woman's  Point*),  and  another  on  the  Asia£it 
shore  nearly  opposite,  called  Jnadoi^Us^fr,  the 
Fort  of  Anatolia.  The  guni  on  bodi  are  without 
cover.  To  Roumelia  Hissar  succeeds  RoumtUa 
Kavakj  a  battery  of  a  few  guns ;  JBqjouk  UmoHi 
ten  guns  j  Karipekey  twenty*three  guns,  tweo^ 
four  and  thirty-six  pounders  f  and  the  cadtle  of 
Tanarikay  at  the  entrance  of  the  Ifflack  Sea.  On 
the  Asiatic  shore  to  AnadoH  Hissar,  succeed  th« 
battery  of  Ywcboy  on  a  promontory,  with  tw«ty- 
tiiree  guns  and  twelve  mortars.;  AnadoU  Kava^ 
thirty-seven  guns  and  fourteen  mortars;  Parku 
Bmariy  twenty-three  guns ;  and  a  fort  near  the  ea* 
trance  of  the  Black  Sea. 

^  The  tower  of  I.eander,  Kis-KaJem  of  the  Turk^ 
is  on  a  rock  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  caaal  j 
it  has  i!\rithin  it  a  well  of  good  water,  and  some 
guns  on  the  ground  floor,  having  an  u|^er  stage 
for  the  guards.  A  light  is  kept  burning  on  it  at 
night. 

Near  the  entrance  of  the  Black  Sea  is  a  li^t* 
house  on  each  shore  of  the  Bosphorus ;  that  on  the 
European  shore  being  on  the  ancient  Panium 
prom,  and' that  on  the  Asiatic  side  on  the  andent 

Ancyreum 

•  Andent  ffermfeaprom,  at  which  the  anaie9  of  Daiiui  and  of  the  CroM 
passed  the  Bosphorus  on  bridges  of  boats. 


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THE  WfM:^K  ffiA->— TUEKfiY.  371 

Atk^ritmpnm.*    Btftb  ace  wetehedly  Atteftdcfd  A^jk^nit.; 

ta.  .   ; 

Off  each  poiht  of  the  entrince  of  the  Bosphor 
ms  from  the  Black  Sea^  is  a  group  of  roCky  idei;s 
which  retain  their  aucient  naihe.  of  Ctfofiea^.  The 
Gkeek  poets  deocribe  theia  as  floating,  probably 
from  their  sippeaxibg  htore  or  les^  elevated,  as  th6 
*a  is  more  or  less  depressed  with  the  wnd:  blow*- 
iog  froiti  the  south  or  north.  On  one ;  of  those 
near  the  Enrop^n  shoce  ^e  sorde  'feniains  of. 
nuaonry,  usnaHy  called  Fiontpey's .  Pilter,  ^.though: 
fi^am  an  inscriptioh  stitt  l^bl^  it  was  '^id^ad^ 
erected  to  Ai^usttis; 

On  th^  European  ski^,  the  Bosphorus  receivesr 
only  sisne  rosigniflcsnt  xiVulets  fonned  in  the  val-» 
lies;  and  on  the  Asiatic  dvore  the  only  ones  oif  an^ 
ecmsideriattion  are  ths:  Ktitchick-Son^  ir  little 
Riyejf,  and  lok-Souiy  which  empty  themdehnes  near 
Atiadbli.Hissar.  The  GSant^s  Mountain  is  a  coti" 
spicuous^  hiU  on  the  ikme  shoire,  and  ha3  its/ name 
fram  a  great  mound  on  its  summit,  supposed  byt 
&e  Turks  to  6e  the  tomb  of  a  giant. 

A  constant  current  sets  from  the  Black  Sea 
through  the  Bosphoriis^  but  lliis  bhdnnel  having 
seven  abrupt  sinuosities,  counter  Hturrents  and 
iiddies  are  formed  on  either  shore,  as  in  a  river. 
In  entering  the  Bosphorus,  the  current  first  sets 
into  the  curve '  of  Bojoukdere  against  the  point 
oidtod  Kishe-bouroun   on   the  Hutopean  ^bme^ 

2  B  2  which 

the  Argonaatt  took  from  it  bj  ordtr  of  tb«  Oracle, 


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which  throws  it  off  towards  the  coast  of  Adli^ 
where  it  strikes  against  the  point  of  Kauledge^ 
bouroun.  Repelled  by  this  point,  it  again  returns 
towards  the  coast  of  Europe  at  the  point  Elislar* 
bouroun,  and  from  thence  towards  Vania-Keui  on 
die  coast  of  Asia  \  again  towards  the  European 
i^ore  at  Effendi-bouroun,  which  throws  it  <^  to« 
wards  the  point  of  Scutari  on  the  opposite  shore  j  and 
finally  from  this  last  it  strikes  against  the  Sera^Ub 
pointy  which  divides  it,  one  part  of  the  stream  run* 
ning  l^mnigh  the  entrance  of  the  Bosphorus  into 
tibe  Sea  of  Marmora,  and  the  other,  as  we  have  aU 
ready  noticed,  makes  the  circuit  of  the  port,  run^ 
ning  ia  along  tiie  side  of  the  city^  and  out  on  that 
of  the  suburbs,  the  latter  with  sudbt  velocity, 
that  it  forms  a  strong  counter  current  near  the 
shore  to  Eflfendi-bouronni  where  meeting  the  r^u« 
lar  current,  their  opposition  creates  a  violent  agi- 
tation of  the  waters.  In  iiie  strength  of  the 
stream  of  the  general  current,  its  velociiy  is  irom 
three  to  five  miles  an  hour.  Violent  eddies  are 
elso  experienced  bdow  the  points  which  throw  c^ 
the  stream. 
jbM^iAt  In  general  the  coasts  of  the  £lack  Sea  are 
elevated  and  socky ;  a  few  spaces  only  being  com* 
posed  of  sandy  downs.  From  the  entrance  of 
the  Bosphorus  to  Kara-Kerman,  the  coast  is  lined 
by  the  mountainous  ridge  of  Haemus,  now  Balkan^ 
terminating  at  Cape  Emeniidi,  {Hcem  extranay 
The  valiies  between  these  mountains  form  littla 
coves  towards  the  sea,  where  vessels  load  the 
timber  of  Haemus  for  Constantinople*    On  this 

coast 


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THE  BLACK  S5A-*-TintK£T  IN  EUROPE,  973 

coast  we  meet,  in  succession,  with  Derkus,  J^iiiiirKi^ 
Midjeh  (Sahmf-dassus)^  Omidra,  Iniada  (Thimas\ 
Akteboli  and  Yaidounu  The  Gulf  of  Foros, 
or  Burgos,  limited  on  the  south  by  Cape  Emeniah^ 
is  four  or  five  leagues  wide,  and  runs  in  nearly 
the  same  distance.  It  has  several  roads  fit  for 
the  largest  ships;  the  principal  of  which  are 
Sizeboli  (Appolonia%  Foros,  Tchingana,  Ahiolu, 
Burgos,  and  Mesembria.  Tchingana  is  a  modem 
Village,  with  a  well  sheltered  road  but  bad  bottom. 
Ahiolu  is  ampngst  marshes,  which  afibrd  a  quan- 
tity of  inferior  salt  Burgos,  at  the  head  of  the 
gidf,  is  a  considerable  place,  and  has  a  large 
trade  with  Constantinople,  whither  it  exports 
wool,  iron,  com,  butter,  cheese,  and  wine.  Me- 
i^embria  (Messouri  of  the  Turks),  on  the  north 
shore  of  the  gulf,  is  on  a  rocky  peninsula,  joined 
to  the  main  by  a  low  isthmus,  sometimes  nearly 
overflowed.  Small  vessels  are  built  here  of  th^ 
oak  of  the' neighbouring  country^ 

On  the  coast  of  Bulgaria*  ^ompreh^ding  the  Btig^niu 
ancient  Maesia,  the  places  of  any  note  are,  Vama 
(pdessus)^  at  th^  mouth  of  a  rivex  which  forms  a 
large  lake  and  extensive  marges.  It  has  16,00Q 
inhabitants,  is  surrounded  hy  a  ditqhi  wd  d^eqded 
by  an  old  castle.  It  export^  com,  fowls,  butter^ 
eggs  and  cheese,  to  Constantinople.  Near  this 
town  a  great  battle  was  fought  in  1544,  between 
jiihe  Hungarians  and  Turks,  in  which  Ladislaus, 
lung  of  Hungary,  lost  his  life. 

To  Varna  succeeds  Kalekria,  with  a  good  road, 
B^haJc  (Cr9m)%  MangoUa  fCalatisJ^  Keustengi 

^  B  3  (Constantiand)^ 


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87^  MABZTIMX  0£OGIUtHT. 

fCdnstantianaJ,  all  of  which  export  provisioiis 
and  wood  to  Constantinople.  Kara-K)e^an 
{IstropoUs)  is  a  large  village  on  the  beach,  de- 
fended by  a  square  castle,  flanked  with  round 
towers.  Several  shpals  off  it  oblige  vessels  to 
anchor  a  league  south  of  the  viUage.  The  pria- 
cipal  export  is  com. 

From  Kara-Kerman  to  Aktiar,  in  fh$  Crimed 
the  coast  is  low,  and  the  shoals  formed  by  the 
rivers  run  off  a  considerable  distance.  The  coaist 
of  the  Crimea,  from  Aktiar  to  Kaffii,  is  bordered 
by  high  peaked  mountains,  with  vallies  terminating 
in  little  coves. 

The  Danube,  Donau  in  German,  the  largest 
river  of  Europe,  has  its  source  in  the  court-yard 
of  the  prince  of  Furstenburg,  in  the  town  of 
Doneschingen,  grand  dutchy  of  Baden ;  and  after 
a  course  of  1,600  miles,  empties  itself  into  the 
Black  Sea,  between  Bulgaria  and  Besarabia,  by 
seven  mouths,  among  swampy  islands  and  shifting 
banks.  The  principal  mouths,  from  south  to 
north,  are,  Visi-Bogasi  {SacraOsteum),  Ghiurcheva^ 
Bogasi,  Sunne  or  Sulina-Bogasi  {Nareum  Osteum), 
the  most  frequented,  being  100  fathoms  wide,  with 
a  depth  of  three  fathoms,  its  stream  running  out 
three  miles  an  hour ;  Ruski-Bogasi  (Cabim  Osteum^ 
and  Kilia-Bogasi  (Boretmi  Osteum). 

The  Danube  passes  through  Sigmaringen,  Ulm, 
Ingoldstadt,  Ratisbon,  Lintz,  Vienna,  Presbuiy, 
Buda,  Belgrade,  Semendria,  Widdin,  and  Ruts- 
chuk.  Between  Buda  and  Belgrade  it  has  depth 
for  the  largest  ships  j  but  below  this  it  is  crossed 

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THE  BLACK  8EA«— TURBXT  IK  EUROPE.  SJS 

by  cataracts,  which  prevent  its  navigation  to  the 
«ea»  It  abounds  in  fish,  particularly  the  sturgeon. 
Towards  its  mouth  the  ancients  gave  it  the  name  of 
Ister. 

Opposite  the  mouths  of  the  Danube  is  Serpent's 
Island,  Ulan-Adassi  of  the  Turks,  and  Fidoni^ 
of  the  modem  Greeks,  the  ancient  Leuce^  or  White 
I^nd,  celebrated  ibr  a  statue  and  temple  of 
Achilles.  It  is  but  two  miles  long,  and  half  a 
inile  broad  5  its  south  shore  presenting  rocky 
cli6&,  fifty  fe^t  high.  It  produces  some  grass  and 
shrubs,  and  is  frequented  by  vast  flocks  of  sea 
birds.  A  cable's  length  round  it  the  depth  is 
twenty  fathoms.  The  Russians  absurdly  believe 
l^at  this  island  is  so  infested  by  serpents,  that  cer- 
tain destruction  would  be  the  consequence  of  land- 
ing on  it. 


RUSSIA. 


The  Ndester  or  Dniester  {^Tyras)  rises  in  Po-  ^^w. 
dolia  (Poland)  ;  it  is  very  rapid  and  full  of  banks. 
After  a  course  of  600  miles,  it  empties  itself  into 
the  northern  gulf  of  the  Black  Sea,  separating  Be- 
fiarabia  from  the  Russian  province  of  Kherson.  A 
bank  before  it  forms  two  channels,  that  on  the  west 
being  called  the  Channel  of  Constantinople,  and 
the  eastern,  the  Channel  of  Ockzakof.  The  first 
is  150 fathoms  broad,  and  the  other  eighty;  but 
neither  h£(ve  more  than  eight  feet  water.  Above 
the  banks  the  river  forms  the  Lake  of  Ovidova,  two 
leagues  broad. 

2  B  4  Akerman 


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376  MAurnHE  oeogbafht. 

int^rum.  Akerman  (or  the  White  Tower)  is  on  the  acmtli 
bank  of  the  Dniester ;  it  has  some  trade,  export* 
ing  com,  wool,  hides,  butter,  wine  and  wood.  On 
the  opposite  bank  of  the  river  is  Ovidopol. 

Odessa,  between  the  Dniester  and  Dnieper, 
when  possessed  by  the  Turks,  was  called  Kocyabey* 
Since  it  has  been  ceded  to  the  Russians  it  has  been 
considerably  improved.  It  is  in  a  healthy  situa- 
tion on  tbe  side  of  a  hill ;  the  streets  strait  and 
wide,  the  new  buildings  of  cut  stone^  with  an  ex^ 
change,  a  lazaret  and  extensive  magazines.  It  is 
defended  by  a  small  citadel,  in  good  order,  with  a 
double  ditch  and  several  outworks,^  Ij;  is  deficient 
in  water,  most  of  the  wells  being  brackish.  Its 
population,  in  18(H>  was  15,000;  and  its  com* 
merce  considen^le,  particularly  in  the  expprt  of 
grain.  In  1805  twp  English  con^merci^l  houses 
were  established  herq.  The  (oad,  though  exposed 
to  the  east,  is  tolerable  safe ;  and  it  has,  besides, 
a  port  formed  by  two  moles,  capable  of  receiving 
vessels  of  500  tons ;  and  a  handsome  quay  one 
werst  and  a  half  long.  The  neighbouring  country, 
for  a  distance  of  1^0  wersts,  in  all  directions,  is  a 
stepp  *  totally  bare  of  trees. 

The  NiEPER,  or  Dni^pee  (^Borysthenes\  rises 
in  Mount  Saldai,  in  the  government  of  Smolensk!, 
and  empties  itself  into  the  northern  gulf  of  the 
Black  Sea,  separating  the  Russian  provinces  of 
Kherson  and  Taurida.  Towards  its  mouth  it  forms 
{t  shallow  and  marshy  lake,  which,  abreast  of  Ockr 
3^of,  is  two  miles  and  a  half  broad,  and  more  a( 

f  A  stepp  is  a  tract  of  fgrtUe  land  uncnltiTat^ 


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THB  BLACK  SEA — HUSftU.  977 

Ac  confluence  of  the  Bog.  The  entrance  is  al-  ^I^ 
most  closed  by  shifting  sand-banks ;  in  the  tempo* 
jary  channels  between  which  there  is  seldom  more 
than  five  feet  water.  The  river  remains  frozen 
over  from  the  middle  of  December  to  the  middle  of 
February,  and  in  the  month  of  May  it  overflows  its 
banks  and  leaves  stagnant  lagoons  in  all  the  low 
country.*  It  abounds  with  fish,  particularly  stur- 
geon,  carp  and  pike.  It  is  navigable  nearly  its 
whole  course,  with  the  exception  of  about  seventy 
-^^ersts,  where,  below  the  town  of  Kief,  it  is  im- 
peded  by  thirteen  cataracts. 

The  island  Berezen  {Borysihenes\  opposite  the 
Dnieper,  is  only  500  fathoms  long  and  126  broad ; 
its  shores  present  perpendicular  cliffs  of  rock  and 
clay,  which  render  it  almost  inaccessible. 

OcKZAKOF  is  a  small  town  near  the  mouth  of 
the  Dnieper  on  the  right  bank ;  it  is  fortified,  and 
on  the  opposite  shore  is  the  fortress  of  Kinbum. 
Gloubuk  is  a  village  on  a  small  eminence  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river.  Vessels  of  considerable  size  lay 
in  its  road,  and  those  <^  ten  or  twelve  feet  dose 
to  the  shore. 

Kherson,  or  Cherson,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Dnieper,  eight  or  nine  leagues  above  Gloubuk> 
near  the  confluence  of  the  Ingouletz,  is  a  new 
town,  founded  by  the  Russians  in  177S>  and  in- 
tended to  be  the  entrepot  of  the  Russian  trade  of 
the  Black  Sea»  but  the  extension  of  the  Russian 
dominions  on  the  west  has  caused  it  to  be  super- 
seded 

•  The  Canal  of  Orel  nnltes  the  Dnieper  and  Wolga,  and  forms  a  commi|« 
^icaikm  between  tkeBlatk  atidCaspiao  Seas. 


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978  MAJLITIMB  OfiOOBAPHT* 

ceded  by  Odessa.  The  Dnieper  is  five  miles  veiie 
at  Khersom,  but  has  so  little  depth  that  vessels  of 
six  feet  only  can  ascend  to  iU  The  Russiaai^ 
however,  build  line  of  battle  ship^  here,  a^d  floait 
t^e  hulls  down  the  river  on  camels,  after  which 
they  are  conveyed  to  Ockzakof  to  be  equipped. 
Kherson  is  defended  by  a  citadel,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  double  ditch.  Haifa  mile  from  the 
town  a  simple  brick  pyramid  points  out  the  grave 
of  the  philanthropic  Howard. 

NicoUef,  in  a  healthy  situation  on  the  Bog,  is  a 
new  town,  covering  a  large  extent  of  ground.  It  is 
hsmdsomely  built  and  has  an  extensive  marine  arse- 
nal, being  the  seat  of  the  Russian  marine  administra- 
tion of  the  Black  Sea,  and  the  station  of  th^  flotilbu 


CRIMEA,  OB  TAURIDA. 

The  Crimea,  the  ancient  Tavrica  Chersanesus^ 
and  in  the  charts  <rf  the  last  century  Crm-Tartary^ 
is  joined  to  the  continent  by  the  isthmus  of  Pece- 
kop,  five  miles  broad.  On  the  west  this  isthmus 
is  washed  by  the  Black  Sea,  and  on  the  east  by  a 
shallow  inlet  or  lagoon  of  the  sea  of  Azoph,  the 
ancient  J^ces  PaluSy  named  in  modem  charts 
the  Negropine,  or  Putrid  Sea,  the  Sea  of  Sivacb, 
and  in  the  Russian  charts,  Gtciloemoref  or  Sea  of 
mud.  The  entrance  is  through  the  Strait  of 
Torikai,  on  the  north.  The  isthmus  is  crossed 
by  a  low  rampart  of  earth,  with  a  dry  ditch  oa  its 
north  side.  Perecop  {Taphros)^  though  by  the 
maps  it  would  appear  a  place  of  some  conse* 
quence^  contains  only  barracks  for  a  few  invalid 

soldiers, 


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THS  BLACK  8EA — RUSSIA.  979 

f«^ers,  and  the  habitations  of  the  potrt  master 
and  officers  of  the  customs. 

All  the  northern  part  of  the  peninsula  is  aa 
undulating  plain^  abounding  in  salt  marshes.  To- 
wards the  south  it  is  mountainous,  forming  an 
elevated  platform,  whose  summit  retains  the  snow 
till  the  end  of  May,  and  whose  sides  are  covered 
with  fine  forests.  The  valKes  are  extremely  fer* 
tile,  producing  a  great  quantity  of  com  and  fruits, 
and  pasturing  vast  herds  of  cattle.  Two  of  its 
rivers  are  of  considerable  size;  besides  which,  tb* 
mountainous  division  has  numerous  lesser  ones» 
which  partake  of  the  nature  of  torrents.  The 
climate  is  temperate  and  healthy,  the  summer's 
beat  being  moderated  by  constant  breezes,  and 
the  cold  of  winter  never  epcceeding  a  few  days  of 
continued  hard  frost. 

After  being  successively  possessed  and  ravaged 
by  different  hordes  of  Barbarians,  the  Crimea 
was  conquered  by  the  Mongul  Tartars  in  the 
thirteenth  century,  and  formed  a  province  of  the 
Mongul  empire.  By  permission  of  the  Monguls 
the  Genoeise  got  a  footing  in  the  peninsula  as  mer- 
chants, but  taking  advantage  of  its  internal  com* 
motions,  they  at  length  possessed  themselves  of  the 
supreme  authority  de facto ;  the  Tartar  Princes, 
or  Khans,  being  elected  ot*  deposed  at  their  wiiL 
In  IMl  t)ie  peninsula  was  formed  into  a  separate 
«bite,  under  the  supremacy  of  tl>e  Sultans  of 
Constantinople,  and  the  Genoese  shortly  after  lost 
fiU  authority  in  it,  and  were  finally  expelled.  It, 
iiowever^  only  changed  piasters,  being  speedily 

reduced 


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880.  MARITIME  GflOGRAPRT* 

reduced  to  an  entire  subjection  on  the  Ported* 
under  whose  devastating  despotism  it  remained 
until  177^>  when  Russia,  at  the  peace  of  Kain* 
ardgi,  stipulated  its  independence  under  its  Khana^ 
reserving  to  herself  some  of  its  strong  places,  as 
a  bulwark  against  the  predatory  incursions  of  the 
Tartars  of  the  C(»itinent«  This  state  of  things 
did  not,  however,  long  exist*  The  Crimeans  pre^ 
ferring  an  union  with  the  Turkish  empire  to  a 
nominal  independence,  but  real  subjection  to 
Russia,  a  civil  war  was  the  result,  in  which  the 
adherents  of  the  Ottomans  were  worsted,  and  the 
Khan,  who  had  been  appointed  by  the  influence 
of  Russia,  ceding  to  her  an  authority  which  he 
could  not  defend,  the  Turks  were  obliged  to 
abandon  the  peninsula,  which  was  finally  guanuu 
teed  to  Russia,  together  with  its  dependefid^  on 
the  continent,  in  1784. 

The  troubles  which  preceded  this  annexation 
greatly  reduced  the  population,  by. the  emigratioB 
of  the  Greeks  and  Armenians  y  and  since  its  sub- 
jection to  Russia,  the  Tartars  have  fled  in  vast 
numbers  into  the  Turkish  dominions,  so  that  its 
present  population  is  not  supposed  te  exceed 
£(^000  souls. 

The  Crim-Tartars  are  divided  into  those  €^  the 
towns  and  those  of  the  mountains  t  they  are 
painted  by  travellers  in  amiable  colours,  their  disr 
position  being  mild  and  generous^  and  thm  nuoi* 
ners  temperate,  cbanly,  and  hospitable.  The 
houses  in  the  towns  are  built  of  square  logs,  widi 
intervals  of  brick  or  tur^  and  plaistered  within  and 

withoutt 


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titt  BLACK  fiEA—ttUSSlA;  881 

Without  The  mcmntaineers,  who  differ  both  in  <^^ 
physiognomy  and  language  from  the  townsmen^ 
dwell  in  huts  covered  with  turf,  built  against  the 
sides  of  rocks,  and  partly  excavated  in  thfe  rock 
itsdf.  They  subsist,  principally,  by  rearing  great 
flocks  of  goats  and  small  sheep.  The  Crimea 
contains  numerous  remains  of  its  ancient  pros« 
perity,  scattered  over  various  parts. 
*  Tlie  places  of  note  in  the  Crimea  are,  on  thd 
trest,  Eupatoria,  fiDrmerly  Kosloff :  previous  to  thef 
occupation  of  the  Crimea  by  the  Russians  this 
was  a  flourishing  town,  but  is  now  almost  entirely 
deserted  and  in  ruins.  Sevastopol,  formerly 
Aktiar  (White  Rocks),  a  new  town,  with  an 
excellent  port  for  the  largest -i^ips,.  formed  by 
three  branches,  something  resembling  the  harbour 
of  Malta.  It  is  the  chief  station  of  the  Russian 
Black  Sea  fleet,  to  which  it  is  entirely  appro- 
priated, no  merchant  vessel  bei^  allowed  to  enter 
it  exc^t  in  distress.  At  its  head  are  the  ruins 
of  the  ancient  fortress  of  Inkerman^  with  some 
curious  caverns,  thought  to  be  the  work  of  monks 
of  l^e  middle  i^es. 

Balacklava  (Partus  Stfmbdiortm)  is  separated 
from  the  port  o£  Sevastopol  by  a  narrow  penlTTsula; 
Its  port  is  tliree-quarters  of  a  mile  long  aiui  400 
yaiAi  broad  within,  with  depth  for  the  largest 
yfadp^  but  the  entrance  is  so  narrowed  bjr  rocks, 
tJutt  only  one  ship  can  pass  at  a  time.  It  is  sur^^ 
rounded  by  high  mountains,  and  its  beaches  are 
composed  q£  a  brilliant  sand,  being  al^oost  entirely 
iwrticles  of  mica  of  a  gol4  colour.       This  port 

h 


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889  MARITIMi:  GEOGltAPHT* 

<^^     is  closed  against  the  vessels  of  all  nations.  Hot 
excepting  Russians,  to  prevent  smuggling. 

Kafpa,  the  ancient  Tlieodosioj  whidi  nan^  has 
been  restored  to  it  by  the  Russians,  but  which 
custom  has  not  yet  rendered  familiar,  was  formerly 
the  most  flourishing  and  considerable  city  erf  thfe 
Crimea,  Containing  (it  is  said)  36,000  inhabitants 
within  the  walls,  and  4d,000  in  the  suburbs.  The 
tyranny  and  devastations  of  the  Russian  govern- 
ment have,  however,  reduced  this  gr6at  populatiott 
to  150  families,  who  inhabit  as  niany  wcK)den  hou« 
ses,  amongst  magnificent  ruins,  the  vestiges  of  its 
ancient  splendoui*,  when,  under  the  Genoese,  H 
was  the  entrepot  of  the  commerce  of  Itidia  with 
Europe.  It  is  ^tuated  on  the  declivity  of  a  hi|^ 
mountain,  and  has  only  a  road  exposed  to  the  eait 
and  S.  W.    It  has  been  declared  a  free  port. 

Kertcb6  {Poniicapeum  and  Bo$phoru$\  to  t 
peninsula  (the  ancietit  Chersonesus  Qfbmeric)i 
stretching  into  the  Strait  of  Taman,  is  builfc  at 
the  foot  of  a  steq)  hill,  and  contains  about  1,000 
iiifaAbit^BtA,  Greek  fishermen,  and  a  few  Jews* 
It  is  defended  by  a  fort,  which  also  conmiands  the 
|tratt«  Jenikale,  it  the .  extremity  of  tlie  s^one 
peninsula,  has  about  9,000  inhabitantis,  aisochieiy 
fishermen ;  it  hds  a  dtadel  of  little  force  on  wcMt 
steep  rocks  overlookir^  the  town.  The  usual  gv* 
rison  in  KertchS  and  Jenikale,  taken  togethetv 
consists  of  a  regiment  of  diasseurs  and  a  battalioa 
of  artillery. 

The  remarkable  hetfiUands  of  the  Crimea  «e 

Cap* 


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THE   BUtCR  SBA^TUBRBT  IIT  ASIA.  383, 

Cape  Tarchamkoi  (Pariheitiim)^  the  west  point, 
and  Cwpe  Alia  (Oiti^Metcpon).  the  south* 


The  coast  of  Anatolia,  on  the  Kack  Sea^  ex-  ^2!?^ 
tends  to  the  Kisil  Irmak^  and  as  lined  by  high 
mountains^  terminating  in  kxfty  promontories^  and 
forming  a  steep  and  clean  coast,  Witb  nunieimis 
lifctle  coves, .  receiving  streams  of  fresh  water* 
Th^  renliarkafale  headlands  are  Cape  Kili-MiKt 
east  o£  E^ekli ;  Cape  Kerempe  {Car€mbi$\  the 
north  point  of  A»a  Minor,  very  hi^land,  with 
breakers  cffyt\  and  Gape  Ik^^  ^  low  point,  west 
of  Sinope. 

The  principal  rivers  of  AnatoHa  fall  into  thi& 
sea,  having  their  risie  in  the  Chain  of  Taarus ; 
they  are  theiSakaria  (San^^us)^  the  Falios  <jBii- 
hms)j  the  Barthin  (Parik&mi»),  and  the  KisiUrmak 
(Hkbfs\  ihe  thost  considexabfe  river  of  Asia  Mi- 
nor. 

Hie  chief  ports  are  Bend*£rekli  (Herackk 
Twitica)y  an  insignificant  village ;  Amasrah  (Amas-^ 
fris),  fcHrmerly  partly  on  a  high  rocky  island,  and 
partly  on  the  main,  the  chaimel  being  crossed  by 
a  brieve,  under  which  vessels  pissed,  but  wfaiidi  is 
now  filled  np,  and  forms  a  low  isthmus:  the  town; 
ia  surrounded  by  a  wall,  with  round  towers,  and  at 
each  side  of  the  isthmus  is  a  port  for  small  craft; 
Ghydros  {Q/$onis)f  IneboU  (lonopoHsy.  JSinopc^ 
or  Sinoub,  is  the  most  considerable  place  on  this 
coast,  having  5,000  inhabititnts:  it  is  strongly  si^ 
tuated  on  the  narrow  and  low  isthmus  o£  a  rocky 
pefiinaula }  is  surrounded  by  a  wall^  ai^  defisnd- 

ed 


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dS4  JtARiTiiffi  bzoGBAPkr. 

jmt^.  ed  by  at  castle;  but  both  are  in  ruins»  aii  yf^ 
as  tbe  mole  which  fwrns  its  port,  in  which  the 
depth  is  twelve  feet  2  it  has  also  a  good  road  fbf 
the  largest  ship%  and  Turkish  Vessds  of  war  are 
built  here.    It  was  the  birth-place  of  Diogenes. 

The  coast  from  the  Kisil-Irmak  to  Vona  is 
named  Roum  by  ihe  Tmics.  The  chief  places  on 
it  are  Samsoun  (Anttius)^  on  the  Jdcyl  Innak 
Qlris)^  the  residence  of  the  great  Midiridates, 
now  an  insignificant  village;  Untah  (Oenet\  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  which  is  a  rock  of  pure  al-' 
lum ;  Fatsa  (Pokmonium)^  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Sidenus;  Budjiah  and  Vona  (Boana)^  on  the  cape 
of  tbe  same  name. 

From  Vona  thef  eoast  takes  the  name  of  the 
tribes  thatinbabitity  who  aref  nearly  equaHy  uncivil 
lized,  and  pay  even  scarcely  a  nominal  obedience 
tothe  Porte.  The  first  of  these  tribes  is  the  La- 
zienSf  whose  name  in  Turkish  signifies  seamen ; 
they  occupy  the  coast  from  Vona  to  the  Batouni : 
and  next  them,  oh  the  north,  are  the  Guiims, 
who  occupy  the  coast  to  the  Pkasis,  and  are  also 
fishermen  and  seamen :  their  country  is  jdch  in 
cattle  and  fruits,  but  the  exactions  of  the  Turks 
have  restrained  industry.  The  prince  has  the  title 
of  GurieL  The  MingreUens  succeed  the  Guriens,. 
occupying  the  coast  to  the  S^homi^  the  countiy 
of  tiie  ancient  Cokhiem  and  Laxiens.  The  pic- 
ture given  of  them  by  travellers  is  by  no  means 
engaging.  A  great  wooUen  bonnet  on  the  head» 
the  feet  naked  or  envelopped  in  skins,  and  filthy 
garments;  such  is  the  dress  of  tbe  Mkigrelian^ 

who 


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THE  BLACK  fi£A— ItmEElT  IK  ASIA.  SSS 

who  passes  his  time  in  the  middle  of  debauched 
females,  eate  with  his  fingers,  and  Imngs  up  his 
children  to  lying  and  robbery.  The  difierent 
hordes  are  co9itiiHutlIy  at  war,  and  the  prisoners  are 
«oId  to  the  Turks  as  slaves.  C3)ardin  thus  de- 
scribes the  manner  of  trading  on  the  coast  of 
Mingrelia :  "  While  the  Tessel  remains  at  anchor 
the  shore  is  crowded  with  half-naked  barbarians 
from  die  mountains ;  both  sides  negociate  armed^ 
•and  mutually  give  hostages  for  those  who  go  on 
board  or  on  shore ;  but  the  whole  traffic  is  carried 
4m  on  board.  The  objects  received  are  slaves, 
honey,  wax,  jackalls  skins."     (Anno  I671.) 

The  principal  ports  <^  the  Laisiens  are,  Kera* 
Munt  (Cerasus)^  a  weH4>uilt  town,  between 
two  rocks,  at  the  foot  of  a  luH,  witili  a  castle 
and  small  fort.  From  hence  the  cherry  tree  Was 
first  carried  to  Europe,  and  received  its  name. 
Itraboii  {TfipoU6\  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  river. 
TRxmsoHD,  Tarabazan  of  the  Turks  (^rapezus)^ 
made  a  %ure  in  the  history  c^the  thirteenth  and 
fourteenth  centuries,  as  the  capital  of  a  sovereign- 
ty founded  by  Alexis  Ck>mmenus,  in  120*  j  from 
w^hose  descendants  it  was  conquered  hy  the  Turics, 
ffl  1458 :  it  contains  85,000  inhabitants,  and  has 
^  considaraUe  trade,  diough  its*  port  can  only  re- 
4eeive  wmaM  vessels.  Surmineh,  Of,  Rt2e  (jBW- 
%eum\  Mapoora,  Athenab  (Atheme\  Caaftrom, 
Mid  Larosy  are  all  insigmficaot  places,  but  with 
«mie  tfftde  to  Constantinople. 

In  lihe  country  of  the  Guriefts  are  Ooonidb 
{Apsm^,  wd  Pirti)  «l  the  mouth  ^  the  Rioai 
(JPfewfe). 

VOL.  n.  2  c  The 


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386  MAEITIME   GEOGRAPHY. 

The  ports  of  Mingrelia  are  Anarghiaf  I^aoiu; 
or  Sebastopoiis  (Z>io^a^n/^)»  at  the 'mouth  of  the 
Marmar. 
M^ntTtii^  The  JbasseSj  Abkas,  or  Abasgiens^  occupy  the 
coast  from  Isgaour  to  the  Strait  of  Tainan ;  they 
are  an  uncivilized  people,  robust,  well  made,  and 
with  strong  national  physiognomy.  Some  of  them 
lead  an  erratic  life  in  the  woods,  while  others  cul- 
tivate  the  ground  \  but  all  are  alike  robbers,  and 
make  no  scruple  of  selling  each  other  to' the  Turk- 
ish slave  merchants. 

The  coast  of  Abassia  to  Anafla  is  very  elevated, 
the  Caucasian  mountains  here  approaching  close 
to  the  sea ;  that  of  Varda  forms  a  great  promon- 
tory near  Soudjuk.  From  Anaflfe  to  the  Strait  of 
Tam^u  th6  coast  is  low.  It  is  only  within  the  last 
^ty  years  that  the  Turks  had  ainy  footing  on  this 
coast;  afid  in  1785  their  three  fcMtresses  had  bi:^ 
.^^00  troops :  they  are,  Soudjuk,  a  square  fort  and 
village,  ^9  residence  of  a  Pasha;  here  is  no  port: 
Ghelindjik,  on  a  bay  surrounded  by  mountains,  ^  is 
defended  by  a  fortress ; '  Anafia,  ot  Anapa,  is  only 
a  fortified  khan,  or  inn,  ;^with  a  battery  of  four 
guns,  serving  as  a  place  of  security  for  the  Turk- 
ish  merchants  and  their  goods  again^  the  Abasses. 
Some  small  vessels  are  built  here  by  the  Turks, 
and  in  the  neighbourhood  are  seen  the  vestiges  of 
a  lai^e  city. 

The^uban  (Hjffwiis)  rises  in  the  center  of 
Caucasus,  in  Circassia,  and  after  reqdiv^ig  almost 
all  thejwatcfs  of  the,  western  sides  of  this  li^e, 
emptier    itsielf  by  two    mouths^  ;encl06ii^  tbe 

mandiy 


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THE  BLACK  BRSl.^^-^VSSIA.  887 

marshy  idle  of  Taman,  whidi  belongs  to  Russia,' 
afid  is  included  in  the  g<w&mmeni  of  the  Cossacks 
Tsobemomoriskau  or  of  the  Black  Sea.  On  this 
island  is  Fanagoria,  a  place  of  some  trade. 


SEA  OF  AZOPH. 

The  Sea  of  Azoph  (Pabis  Moeotis)  is  100 
leagues  long  and  60  broad  :  it  discharges  its  waters 
into  the  Black  Sea,  by  the  strait  between  the 
Crimea  and  the  Isle  of  Taman^  the  ancient  Cm^, 
merian  Bosphorus,  and  is  known  by  the  various, 
modern,  names  of  Strait  of  Kafi^  of  Jenikale,  of 
Zabache*  and  of  Taman,  the  mouth  of  St  John^. 
&c.  Its  least  breadth  is  twelve  versts,  but  a  bank, 
of  sand  nearly  dry  runs  half  way  across^  from  the 
island  of  Taman,  ^so  that  vessels*  are  obliged  to 
sail  close  to  the  Crimean  shore ;  the  greatest  depti^ 
is  thirteen  feet,  bottom  soft  mud,  as  it  is  through-^ 
out  this  sea.  In  spring  and  summer,. the  winds 
blowing  almost  constantly  from  the  S.W.,  retard 
the  egress  of  the  waters,  which  are  tlierefore  most 
elevated  in  these  seasons :  in  autumn  when  they 
are  lowest,  the  greatest  depth  in  the  middle  of 
the  sea  does  not  exceed  forty  feet.  When  strong 
easterly  winds  blow,  the  waters  of  the  gulf  of  the 
Don  experience  so  great  a  fall,  that  near  Taganrog 
they  retire  totally  from  the  shore  for  a  space  of 
three  or  four  leagues,  and  with  the  reUim  of  the 

2c2  S.W. 

»  FMMTKJttbaek-Deiifi^  (thtt  BrackUh  Sea)  tbe  name  by  which  th« 
1^  of  Asoph  It  known  to  th«  Turks. 


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968  maataa  «mAVHT. 

$wW.  wind  tiiey  again  imh  inmutds  the«Iioi«  wftik 
great  rapidity.  There  are  many  ba&ln  in  this  Ma, 
which  tageltet  with  the  stroi^  and  im^idar  <ms^ 
rents,  render  its  navigatioii  perilous  (  it  is  aiso 
dosed  by  ice,  from  December  to  March.  This 
sea  abounds  in  fish,  which  are  taken  in  considerable 
quantities,  particularly  in  winter,  by  making  holes 
in  the  ice,  and  passing  nets  through  them. 

The  Sea  of  Azoph  receives  (he  Don  (Tanais\ 
whose  source  is  in  Lake  St.  John,  near  Tula  in 
Russia,  and  its  course  700  miiies :  it  empties  itself 
by  thirteen  mouths  among  sands,  forming  chan- 
Bels  only  tor  boats.  Above  these  banks,  the  navi- 
glation  h  only  interrupted  throughout  its  whole 
€btitw  by  one  fall,  seventeen  miles  In  length«[ 
beldw  "die  junction  df  the  Samara,  but  which  may 
also  be  passed  by  loaded  bo<at3  in  spring. 

The  north  «hore  of  the  Sea  of  Azoph  is  inha- 
bited 1^  the  Nogay  Tartars,  im  erratic:  tribe,. 
ifho  ¥tTe  in  huts,  and  wander  with  their  cattle  in 
aearclh  off  pasturage.  The  first  Russian  town  is 
PetrolNcaia,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Broda,  which 
receives  vessels  of  seven  feet  draft.  Maripd^  or 
Marianopoli,  a  plaee  of  some  trade,  between  the 
rivers  Mius  and  Kialmius,  on  the  north  shore  oT 
&e  gulf  of  tJie  Don.  Taganrog^  at  the  head  of 
fte  same  gulf,  is  a  regidar  fortress,  capable  of 
Molding  5,000  men,  with  a  town  of  4,000  inha- 
bitants, whose  houses  are  meanly  built  of  wood 
or  earth  j  it  is  placed  on  the  acclivity  of  a  pro- 
montory, commanding  all  extensive  view  of  the 
gul£   The  shoalnefts-of  the  water  ppwcnte  weis 

VOm 


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T3BB  MSDITBBBAHBAIfc  S90 

fr«ii  ^qpiMkehiAS  naarer  tbjua  throe  leagues,  but 
it  has  ft  little  artificial  havea  fat  tboae  of  fii^e 
feet  149  trade  is  eonaiderable,  and  it  has  tiitee 
wuuial  fails,  in  Msry,  August,  and  Nonrember. 

AavfK  on  the  soutk  dure  of  the  gnlf  of  the 
Pod,  near  the  riwr's  mouth,  is  a  poor  vfflage  of 
fifty  hv^  and  a  routed  fort  gacrisoiied  by  fifty 
invalids. 


OF  TBB 

COMMERCE 

OF 

THE    MEDITERRANEAN. 


It  18  well  observed  by  Ita3aial,  that  the  people 
TRrho  polished  all  others  were  merchants  j  and,  hq 
might  have  added,  seamen.    The  Phenicians,  who 
were  the  earliest  navigators  of  whom  we  have  any 
certain  records,  were  a  natipn  of  very  limited  ter- 
ritory, and  yet  they  still  live  in  the  grand  annals  of 
history.     Nature,  which  had  given  them  for  coun- 
try the  smafl  tract  confined  between  the  Mediter- 
ranean and  the  chain  of  Libanus,  seemed  to  have 
separated  them,  in  a  manner,  from  the  rest  of  thei 
eardi,  in  order  to  give  them  the  empire  of  the 
sea.    But  though  it  is,  certain,  that  the  Fheniciana 
were  the  greatest  merchants  of  the  Mediterrane^iy 
our  acquaintance  with  the  nature  and  extent  of 
Aeit  commerce  is  very  limited,    l^re^  the  Queen 

«  c  3  qf 


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v590  MABmME  OSOGAAP^r. 

qf  the  Seoy  is'cdebrated  by  the  Hebrew  viit^rs  of 
iht  time  of  David  and  Solomon^  for  her  com- 
inerce>  and  her  navigatorB  even  passed  the  Pillars 
of  Hercules,  and  visited  the  British  isles  for  tin«^ 
After  the  richesiand  luxury  c£  Tyre  had  brought 
hes  under  the  ycke  of  despotism,  Carthage,  aPhe- 
mcian  cakmy,  ix>se  to  ta  height  of  opidence  and 
prosperity,  that  enabled  her  to  dispute  the  empire 
of  the  world  with  Rome ;  Carthage,  however, 
experienced  the  fate  of  every  rich  people  that 
has  to  defend  itself  against  a  poor  one,  it  was 
subjugated  and  annihilated. 

The  Greeks,  who  succeeded  to  the  Cathaginian 
commerce,  were  either  of  Phenician  or  Egyptian 
origin,  and  combined  the  industry  of  the  one 
people  with  the  prudence  of  the  other.  Athens 
increased  her  commerce  by  her  victories,  und  her 
power  by  her  commerce }  the  true  principles  of 
which,  her  magistrates  seem  to  have  understood 
better  than  most  modem  ones. 

The  Romans,  conquerors  of  Greece,  and  finally 
masters  of  the  known  world,  had  long  ne^ected 
commerce  as  an  art  of  pjeace  which  they  despised ; 
and  at  last,  when  under  their  Emperors  the  pro- 
gress of  luxury  was  accompanied  by  an  extension 
of  trade,  the  profession  of  a  merchant  still  conti- 
nued to  be  held  in  such  contempt,  that  the  nobles 
were  forbid  to  engage  in  it.  Their  overgrown 
capital,  however,  requiring  a  constant  supply  of 
provisions,  as  well  as. of  luxuries,  the  Roman 
fleets  were  employed  in  tram^rting  thither  the 

coni, 

•  See  Pn^;ress  of  Maritime  Dkcovery.    Vol.  I,  p.  90. 


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THE  MEDITERRANEAN,  391 

com,  ml,   g^ld  and  isilver  of  Spain,  the  corn  of  c^nmmt. 
Egypt,  and  the  spices  and  silks  of  tlie  east,    col- 
lected at  Alexandria*  arid  Byzantium, 
t  The  barbarians  of  the  north,  as  the  Romans 
justly  styled  them,  taking,  advantage  of  the  weak- 
ness and  disunion  which  resulted  from  the  cor- 
ruption of  Imperial  Rome,  swarmed  towards  the 
countries  of  the  south,  And  each  leader  appro- 
priating to  himself  and  followers  the  country  he 
had  first  ravaged,  innumerable  petty  sovereignties 
arose,  which  being  united  by  no  common  tie  of 
intet^t  or   utility,   all  communication    between 
them  ceased  y  indeed  communication  was  rendered 
impossible,  by  the  naliire  of  their  feudal  govern- 
ments,   and  the  general  state  of  society.    Hie 
nobles,  equally  ignorant,    barbarous,  and  proud, 
sighed  only  for  war,  or  in  the  intervals  of  fbrced 
peace  occupied  themselves  solely  in  the  chase  of 
beasts,  scarcely  more  savage  than  themselves. 

The  opprobrium  which  the  feudal  manners 
attached  to  the  profession  of  commerce,  had  the 
eflFect  of  confining  the  littde  that  existed  in  the 
hands  of  Jews  and  of  the  dregs  of  the  people, 
who  endeaVoui^d  to  collect  customers  round  their 
stalls  and  booths,  by  the  gross^t  ^oes  and 
mummery,  the  remains  of  which  have  descended 
to  our  days.  At  these  fairs,  objects  of  the  most 

2  c  4  obvious 

•  The  Roman  trading  vessds  leem  to  have  heejn  in  general  of  small 
8b.c,  for  Cicero  speaks  of  those  of  2,000  amphOra  (about  sixty  tons), 
as  considerable  ships.  Ships  of  enormous  bulft ,  were  however  bldlt  by  tht~ 
ancients :  sudi  was  that  of  Ptolemy,  280  cubits  or  420  (eet  long,  which 
according  to  proportional  calculation  ought  to  have  carried  7,182  tons  \ 
more  than  three  times  the  burden  of  one  of  our  modem  first  rates. 


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CMUMraC 


_f 


39t  UAMlTDa  osoe&ApHi^ 

obvioitf  necessity  w^e  exdiaia^ed  againftk  qm^ 
other,  fot  ihov^h  the  cmi^ed  noney  of  tht 
Romans  still  continued  in,  une,  it  was  only  to  hm 
ifxxod  in  the  poasesaioa  of  th^  pfinoefti,  OQUes, 
and  dergy. 

At  length  the  cities  of  Italy,  aflee  a^loog  coo^ 
tinnance  of  civil  diaaentiondy  which  diatmcted  the 
empire  of  Cbarl^nagna  under  his  guccessors^ 
having  accomplished  their  independcpace  as  aepa- 
rate  states,  «id  havii^  no  kwger  wars  to  occu|qr 
them»  b^pin  to  turn  their  views  to  the  artft  of 
peace,  established  manufactures,  and  a[^;aged  in 
maritime  commerce*  During  the  nitith  and  a. 
part  of  the  tenth  cmtuiy,  tibe  peoi^  of  Amal^. 
a  small  state  of  Roman  origin,  were  the  principal 
traders  c^*  the  Mediterranean,  and  in  their  city 
was  established  a  tribunal^  to  which  almost  all 
tiie  peo{de  of  this  sea,  referred  their  maritime 
disputes*  The  other  cities  of  Italy  were  not  long 
in  emulating  Amalfi,  and  Venice  ia  particular, 
which  fiom  its  existence  had  been  essmt^^  nawlt 
soon  outstripped  all  her  competttcMrs, 

A  memorable  event  in  history  now  i|rr»^  and; 
gaya  to  commerce  and  navigatiofi:  a».  increased 
impulse*  The  followers  of  Mahomet  havi%pud)M 
(ftieir  c€m4^ie9tson  every  side^  threat^ed  tb#.veiy 
hjeart  o£  Eocope^  when  die  9eal  of  a^m.c^rw»64 
aUChljistendom  to  a  feding:of  the  common  danger, 
and  determined  its  still  restless  and  warlike  no- 
bility, not  only  to  arrest  the  progress  of  the  infi- 
delsy  but  also  to  warest  from  them. the  saered  soil 
of  Palestine,  of  which  liiejr  had  been  many  years 


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in  fiAU)t  peeaesstott}  kiogfl^  princes^  Bobks^  peo* 
pie  sacrificed  every  teinporal  good,  in  the  hc^  of 
gaining  eternal  happineas  under  the  banner  ci  tb« 
a9f».  From  these  expeditions  the  hau^ty  nobles 
brought  back  a  jelisb  for  the  luxuries  of  the£ast« 
which  spread  ranj^iHy  over  Europe  and  was  accomr 
panied  by  a  gei^eral  imiH*ovei|ient  of  manners. 

The  cities  of  Italy  profited  by  this  moral  revo* 
lutkm^'to  inoreAse  their  commerce,  and  several  of 
tidem  united  for  its  defence  against  the  pirates  who 
atiU  infested  the  seas,  and  agreed  upon  a  code  of 
laws  for  the  general  observance.  At  the  same  tim# 
they  estidblished  depots  in  Flanders  and  Brabant, 
where  the  naval  stores  of  the  north  were  exchanged 
fi>r  the  manitfactures  of  Italy,  and  for  the  pro* 
ductk>ns  of  India. 

The  commerce  of  India,  which  from  the  most 
remote  ages  had  arrived  in  the  Mediterranean  by 
varkms  routest  which  we  shall  have  occasion  to 
notice  hereafter,  was  transferred,  on  tiie  conquest 
of  ^E^^  by  the  Safacens  in  the  seventh  century^ 
ffom  tike  Bed  Sea  and  Alexandria,  to  the  Black 
Sea  abd  Conatantinople,  and  the  riches  derived 
fiom  it»  ftlUl  supported  the  splendour  of  the  capita 
of  tibe  eastern  empire,  and  might  have  conlioued 
to  da  so,  had  the  Greek  nation  retained  its  an^ 
^ent  virbie;  but  sunk  in  corruption  and  eflfemi- 
mey^  th^  interests  of  the  pe<^Ie  were  sokl  by  the 
empery^a  to  monopolists,  and  the  vessels  of 
£9reignei!s  were  alone  seen  in  their  ports.  The 
Vmetkma  wbc^  inthev  expeditions  with  the  cru^ 
ladesy  bad  vitnessec}  this  9tate  of  d^adation, 

tppk 


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\.9MMt*it» 


^94*  itAHITlME  aEOORAPHY. 

took  advantage  of  it,  and  turaiBg  their  arms  against 
~~      the  imperial  city,  made  themselves  masters  <rf  it 
and  of  its  commerce  (1904). 

Genoa  which,  as  w^  as  Venice,^  had  held  a- con- 
spicuous place  as  a  maritime  power  since  the 
tenth  century,  when  it  was  rebuilt  by  Charle- 
magne ^er  having  been  destroyed  by  tbe  Lom- 
bards, jealous  of  the  growing  power  of  Venice, 
assisted  the  Greeks  to  replace  the  dynas^  of  their 
emperors  on  the  throne  of  Constaritino|rfe,  and  in 
return  had  the  suburb  of  Pera,  with  unlimited  com- 
hiercial  privileges  granted  them ;  and  shordy  after, 
making  themselves  masters  of  the  Criftiea,  they 
monopolized  the  whole  trade  of  India. 
*    The  Venetians  being  thus  precluded  from  trad- 
ing to  Constantinople,  succeeded  in  turning  a  part 
of  the  Ii^dia  commerce  into  its  old  channel 'through 
Egypt.    In  the  beginning  of  the  thirte^itii^oen- 
tury,   Saladin,  the  celebrated  Saracen  Sutam  of 
Egypt,  instituted  the  corps^  of  Mamelukes,   who 
were  originally  Circassian  slaves  taken  in  in£uicy 
and  trained  to  arms.  From  being  the  chief  support 
A,D,igM).    of  the  Sultan's  throne,   these  soldiers  at'  tength 
overturned  it,   and  choosing  a  chief  fVom^  their 
own  body,  kept  possession  of  Egypt  tiH  subdued 
by  the  Turks  in  the  sixteenth  century.  The  Vene- 
tians by  promises  and  threats  prevailed-  on  the 
Mameluke  chiefs  to  permit  Egypt  to  foe  again 
made  the  route  of  communication  between  India 
and  Europe,  and  Alexandria,  after  six  centuries  df 
letharg}',  resumed  the  activity  of  commerce,  and 
saw  her  ports  again  crowded  with  ships. .  The 

Venetians 


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Venetians  now,  in  their  turn,  acquired  a  preponde-   c«w»«^. 
ranee  over  llhe  Grenoese,  to  whom  the  products  of 
India  only  came  by  an  uncertain,  tedious,  and 
expensive  route  through   the  northern  parts  of 
Asia.  The  capture  of  Constantinople  by  the  Turks 
{1470)  and  the  loss  of  the  Crimea,  shortly  after 
deprived  the  Genoese  of  the  remaining  portion  of 
the  Indian  trade ;    and  though  they,    as  well  as 
the  Pisans*  and  Catalans,  attempted  to  share  the 
trade  of  Alexandria  with  the  Venetians,  the  latter 
engrossed  the  far  greater  portion  of  it,  and  Eu- 
rope depended  on  them  for  the  productions  of  the 
East  until  the  discovery  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 
This  grand  epoch  in  commerce  was  immedi- 
ately  followed  by  an  almost  total  stagnation  i)f 
foreign  commerce  in  the  Mediterranean,  for  though 
the  productions  of  the  north  were  still  necessary 
to  the  south,  the  latter  had  nothing  of  a  balanced 
value  to  give  in  return,  and  it  is  recorded  by  co- 
temporary  writers,  that  at  the  beginning  of  the 
seventeenth  century,   the  Hanse  merchants,  who 
occasionally  visited  this  sea,  being  unable  to  pro- 
cure return  cargoes,  sold  their  vessels  there  and 
returned  home  by  land. 


SPAIN. 

Spain  was  celebrated  in  very  ancient  times,  not" 
^nly  for  the  fertility  of  its  soil,  but  also  for  the 

manufacturing 

*  Pisa  fell  onder  tfie  dominion  of  Fknrenoe  in  the  eleventh  century  ( 
lOBVQiB  were  first  appointed  by  the  Florentines,  under  the  first  Cosmo  de 
Medids,  and  eaUed  Contvk$  MoHtimm. 


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8ffi  UAMxnuE  ^eoQiiAPiir. 

gwOHfafttiigipg  indufftfy  q£  ito  iidiatutafiis.    Uaiitr 
tbe  Roomii  donEunioB,  it  supplied  the  sddiers  of 
tiwi  Bomaa  empire  with  arms,  the  Spanish  sieti 
b^iog  preferred  to  all  others  from  its  superior 
tto^r^  siq^osed  to  be  acquired  bj  tiie  qualify  of 
thd  waters*     To  their  woollen  cloths  the  Spar 
Biards  possessed  the  secret  (^  giving  a  purple  die 
of  superior  brilliancy^  and  hence  they  were  soi^bt 
for  tiu:oughout  all  Italy.     The  invasion  of  the 
Barbarians  annihilated  both  the  manufactures  and 
commerce  of  Spain,   which  did  not  again  begin 
to  revive  until  the  Moors  were  firmly  established 
in  its  southern  provinces*     In  the  twelfUi  and 
tiiirteenth   centuries,   the  port  of  Almerla  was 
£uned  for  its  trade,  and  in  the  fourteenth  Barce- 
lona,  besides  a  number  of  trading  vessels,   kept 
armed  ships  for  the  security  of  commeroe.    This 
city  had  also  commercial  establishments  on  the 
J>on,  where  her  consul  was  presmted  to  Tamer* 
lane  on  his  return  from  his  victorious  expedition 
into  Muscovy.     During  the  fifteenth  and  six* 
teenth  centuries  Ahneria,   Valencia,  and  Barce* 
hoBy  traded  not  only  to  the  Archipelago,  Syria, 
and  Egypt,  but  also  to  the  north  of  Eurqie,  and 
these  cities  then  rivalled  the  most  flourishing  of 
the  Hanse  Towns.     At  the  close  of  the  same  cen- 
tury, the  merchant  marine  of  Spain  far  exceeded 
that  of  any  other  pew^  of  the  north,  cossisting  of 
1,000  vemk  constructied  in  the  national  pcuts  and 
of  the  timber  of  the  national  forests.    The  expul- 
sion of  the  Jews  in  1492,  deprived  the  country  of 
its  most  active  merchants,  and  that  of  the  Moo» 

is 


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Ymt  nsDTTESRAHSAir.  397 

in  l6lls  together  ^witb  continual  -wars  and  weak 
princes,  ^ontirely  annihilated  die  spirit  of  com«- 
ftierte^  And  at  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  cen- 
tury, Spain  had  neither  a  military  nor  m^chant 
nariii^  and  her  marittmecomraercebehig  entirely 
passrve  was  only  beneficial  to  for^gners.  Even 
tibe  conting  trade  of  the  Mediterranean  was 
carried  on  by  rtrai^rs,  the  Spaniards  being  de- 
terred from  Tenturing  along  the  shore  by  the 
dread  of  the  Barbary  corsairs,  who  frequently 
landed  and  carried  numbers  of  the  inhabitants  into 
slavery. 

Towards  the  beginning  ol  the  eighteenth  cen- 
tury the  Spanish  commerce  had  again  began  to 
revive,  when  the  war  of  the  Succession  threw  it 
tocki  the  vindictive  I%iHp  V.  prohibiting  the  ex- 
portation of  the  }»:oduoe  of  the  kingdom  to  any 
of  the  nations  with  whom  he  was  at  war.^  This 
prince  was  however  no  sooner  quiedy  seated  on 
the  throBe,  than  he  turned  his  thoughts  to  the 
resfamrfaon  of  tra^,  by  encouraging  national  in* 
dustry,  ^ittd  by  tiie  creation  of  councils  of  com- 
merce in  the  principal  cities.  His  immediate  suo- 
4^essoo  pursuinjg  the  same  plans,  the  active  com- 
merce 


•  TbiB  prMbiilon  mm  paiiicttlarly  k^ious  to  tlie  Me^tartaaeaa  pn>- 
vincei,  by  ttoppiog  the  export  of  wine,  their  principal  agricultural  pro- 
(loce^  for  fingHmcU  tHio  had  hitherto  recelred  the  plater  'pm,  t>f  her 
ivtae  tcom  ^tln,  was  now  obliged  to  have  recourse  to  Portugal,  and  the 
commercial  treaty  with  the  latter  power  of  1703  has  ever  since  deprived 
tiie  wines  of  Spain  of  a  fitvonrable  concurrence  in  the  English  market, 
Wldle  her  own  Immediate  neighbours  being  supplied  ihmi  thdr  prtrper  terri- 
tortei^  thi«  brsncb  of  commerce  is  greatly  below  what  It  might  be  carried 

10. 


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89S.  XARITIICE  GSOO&AJPHT. 

merce  increased  rapidly,  and  thoi^  it 
became  circumscribed  by  the  American  war,  it 
revived  with  the  peace,  and  had  attained  a  coxnr 
parative  d^ree  of  importance,  when  Spain  was 
driven  by  the  overwhehnii^  power  of  France  into 
a  war  with  England.  At  this  epoch  the  number 
of  national  merchant  vessels  was  500^  of  which 
one  half  belonged  to  the  ports  of  Catalonia  £Uid 
two-thirds  of  the  remainder  to  Biscay. 

The  exports  of  Spain  from  the  Mediterranean 
are: 


Wines, 

Barilla, 

Lead, 

Anchovies, 

Brandy, 

Salt, 

Kerraes, 

Raw  Silk, 

Oil, 

Fruits, 

Cork, 

Fklms, 

Wool 

Rice, 

Liquorice. 

&c.  &c- 

The  ports  which  have  a  direct  foreign  trade  are 
Barcelona,  Tarragona,  and  Tortosa;  Valencia, 
Alicant,  and  Gandia ;  Carthagena ;  Malaga  '  and 
Almeria.  Of  wines  England  takes  off  a  consi- 
derable quantity  of  that  of  Xeres  (Sherry),  and 
some  sweet  wines  of  Alicant,  Rota,  and  Malaga. 
The  wines  of  Catalonia  are  chiefly  exported  to 
Italy. 

The  brandy  of  Catalonia  and  Valencia,  and  the 
oil  of  Andalusia  and  Catalonia,  are  chiefly  sent  to 
France,  England,  and  the  north. 

Barilla*  is  almost  exclusively  sent  from  Cartha- 
gena and  Alicant  to  France  and  England,  in  the 

propordim 

•  Barilla  is  a  salt  produced  from  the  ashes  of  several  plants  found  in  the 
greatest  abundance  on  the  coast  of  Andalusia  ^  it  is  used  in  the  manu£ac* 
ture  of  loap  and  gVtfs^  and  in  the  bleaching  of  linen. 


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TH£  MEDITEERANSAN.  ^99 

pro]M)rtion  of  five  to  the  former  and  one  to  the    c^'^^!!^- 
latter.  •^•" 

The  fruits  exported  are  raisins  and  figs  pf  Ma- 
laga and  Valencia,  dates  and  almonds  of  Valen- 
cia, and  walnuts  of  Catalonia ;  they  are  princi- 
pally sent  to  England  and  the  North. 

The  salt  of  Valencia  goes  to  Portugal,  Eng- 
land, Holland,  and  the  North ;  the  lead  of  Gre- 
nada to  France  ;  the  rice  of  Valencia  to  Majorca 
and  Minorca ;  the  cork  of  Catalonia  to  England, 
France,  and  the  North  j  anchovies  to  England 
and  the  North  j  palm  branches  *  of  Valencia  to 
Italy,  and  the  kermes  t  of  the  same  province  to 
France. 

Raw  silk  was  formerly  an  important  export, 
but  is  reduced  to  a  cypher,  from  the*  duties 
amounting  to  a  prohibition. 

General  approxknatioe  iHew  qf  the  principal  objects 
of  exports  JT(m  the  Mediterranean  provinces  of 
Spain. 

Redis,        Heah. 
Wine  of  Catalonis^. . . .         4,000  charges     256,000 

Valencia 1^200,000  cantares  9,120,000  ^ 

Alicarit .800/W 

,  ^>  Xeres 50,000  quint.    12^000,000 

Malaga    ....     400,000    do      36,000,000 

total  of  Wine 58,176,000 

Carried  over. ,.,,,  68^1  fCiOOO 

«  Used  in  the  reKgious  cere]]k>iiiei  on  Palm  Sundajr. 
♦  Tbe  berry  of^  a  specie  o(  oak  liKd  in  djing  icarlet. 


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400  irAMnmi  *fiocau>»ir* 


Brought  ortT 58^176 /Mt 

9f«Bd7  of  Catalonia . .       dM00pif>c$    25^0J)0d 
Valencia    ..     ^00,000  cant.     12^000^00 

ToUlofB»i^f    37^900,000 

Fhiits :  Raisins  of  Malaga  2^,000  ^ubt.   1 0,000,000 

VateDcia  38,000  do.        1,140,000 

Tigs  of  Malaga  ....      100,000   da.        3,300,000 

Valencia    ..    .   ;i6,000    do.  512,000 

l>at€8  of  Valencia 400,000 

Ahnonds  of  do 3,000   A>.  030,000 

WabiDts  of  Catalonia      20,000  sk^      2,496,000 

Total  of  Fruits    18,200,000 

on  of  Malaga ^,000,000 

Catalonia    8,000  charges  2,560,000 

Total  of  Oil   22,560,000 

Barilla  of  Valencia 129,000  quint.     6,100,000 

Murcia....     200,&00    do.     10,000,000 


Total  «f  Ran  Ua 16,1 00^000 

Kermes  of  Valencia . .  140  quint.        700,000 

Cork  of  Catalonia,  in 

squares 30,000   do.      21,600,000 

Do.  in  bottle  corks           1,200   do.  862,000 

Salt  of  VaknoU  ,. . .          €,000  <io.  iMi,000 

Sweepings  of  tke  htntcs^  Barailooft  to 
Buenot  Afm.. 660^000 

Total  to -sundries 24,710,000 


Grand  total , ,  176,946,000 


The  Isles  Baleares  in  ancient  times  possessed 
a  considerable  trade,  and  under  the  Moors  the 
commerce  of  Majorca  was  still  fburiahiBg  $  and 
though  it  deditted  on  thdx  «:KpuL»oB»  FlEdma  had 

in 


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in  tfa»  tbkteent^  Q(Atiiry  300  im/dieg  WB&d%  and 
in  the  fifteenth  century  this  island  was  one  o£  the  ^"^ 
.depots  .<if  ithe  eoiMMsrce  ^  the  east  faj  the  Eed 
Swi  The  moion  qf  the  islands  to  Spain  deprived 
tfaevi  of  the  conunerdaliKlvwitages  they  eqoyed 
while  independent. 

In  1SQ5  ikd  mspuis  a£  Migorca  were 

Wine.. 877fOOO  arobai. 

Oil 1,10^000 

X  Bcaody 15,000 

Oranges 14  mfflions. 

Almonds    \       II9400  faaegas. 

Beans I«»0p0 

G^De» «,000  <{uiQtals. 

V'Oeeae  ••«•«•••         fib,om# 
The  m^arte  in  the  same  year  were 
.  Com  from  Africa, 
Rice,  sugar,  coifee,  and  salt  provisions,  from 

England  and  theI4orth, 
Manufactured  goods,  chiefly  from  France 

and  Ik^and, 

Drugs,  tobapco,  gusqpowder,  timber,  &d. 

firom  Spain. 

Of  these  exports  the  wine  is  chiefly  taken  off  4)iy 

vessds  £oT  their  4>wn  use  ;  the  oil  is  taken  o^i^ 

the  fingUah  and  AipB  of  the  North,  da  t&eir  own 

vessels,  or  else  ezpcrted  by  the  Majoroans  in  t&eir 

MBall.oraft  iko.l^pain  and  Marseilles.    All  ^  bran^- 

dj  k  mat  in  the  Afagorcan  vessds  to  Baroekma 

and  Cadie,   and  the  same  vtssels  convey    the 

imi^gn,  dimonds,   and  capers  to  the   ports  p£ 

JPxance,  and  the  cheese  to  fiarcel/BQa.    Tim  ba^ 

VOL.  n.  2  D  lance 


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Comwuret, 


40ft  MARtmnS  OSOOBAPBr. 

lance  of  trade  is  thought  to  be  in  favour  of  Ma-^ 
jorca. 

The  exports  of  Minorca  wee  wine,  wool,  cheese, 
wax,  honey,  salt,  and  ca^iers ;  in  1805  they  were 
valued  at  j^0,000,  and  the  imports  exceeded 
that  sum. 

The  isles  Pityuses  export  only  an  inconsiderable 
quantity  of  wooU  and  about  120,000  quintals  of 
salt  from  Yvi9a,  chiefly  taken  off  by  the  Swedes. 

The  first  colony  of  Spain  that  presents  itself  is 
the  Canary  Islands,  from  which,  though  capable 
of  being  made  a  source  of  national  wealth,  the 
mother  country  scarce  derives  any  other  advantage 
than  the  barren  one  of  simple  dominion ;  the  ex- 
ports from  Spain  being  confined  to  a  small  qu^i- 
tity  of  coarse  woollens,  hats,  and  olive  oil,  '  and 
the  imports  to  some  orchilla  root  (used  in  dying 
violet),  which  is  collected  on  accmmt  of  the 
Crown,  a  little  cotton,  sugar,  honey,  wax,  and 
calevances. 

The  west  coast  of  Africa  seems  not  to  have  at- 
tracted the  notice  of  the  Spanish  government, 
until  its  chief  trade,  that  of.  slaves,  began  to  be 
anathe^oiatized  by  most  of  the  ol^er  nations  who 
were ,  most  largely  concerned  in  it.  At  this  very 
.period  it  was  that  Spain  conceived  the  idea  of 
taking  an  active  part  in  this  nefiurious  traflQic,  and 
for  this  purpose,  in  1788,  she  jMTocured  £rom  Bar- 
tugal  ^.he  cession  of  the  islands  of  Fernando  Po 
and  Anabona,  m  the  Gulf  of  Gruinea,  Two 
JSpanish  fHgates,  with  acertun  number  of  setders^ 
were  accordingly  sent  to  take  possession,  but  were 

-^  so 


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THB  M£DITEBBANEAN#  406 

80  badly  recdiv^  by  the  idandet^, .  and  the  set- 
tlers laififeied  so  much  from  the  climate^  that  they 
returned  to  Spain,  and  no  attempt  has  since  been 
made  of  the  same  kind. 

From  the  first  formation  of  her  American  colo- 
nies, Spain  adopted  a  system  which  could  not  fail 
to  retard  their  improvement>  and  render  them  less 
beneficial  to  the  mother  country.  Their  trade 
was  at  first  permitted  only  to  Spanish  fubjects,  and 
afterwards  to  the  port  o£  Seville  alone  j  but  in 
ccmsequence  of  the  Guadalquivir  becoming  im- 
practicable by  large  vessels,  in  1720  the  mono- 
poly  of  the  commerce  was  transferred  to  Cadiz. 
From  this  city  one  fleet  (Jlota)  and  several  gal- 
leons sailed  every  year  for  Mexico  and  Terra 
Firma.  The  flota  consisted  of  twelve ,  to  fourteen 
ships  of  400  to  1,000  tons,  convoyed  by  two  or  more 
ships  of  the  line.  On  their  arrival  at  Vera  Cruz, 
their  cargoes  were  landed  and  conveyed  tq  Xalap- 
pa,  twelve  leagues  inland,  where  a  fair  was  held 
for  six  weeks,  and  the  gold  and  silver  of  Mexico 
exchanged  for  the  merchandize  of  Europe.  With 
these  metals  the  Jlota  set  sail  for  Spain,  touching 
at  the  Havannah  to  compleat  their  cargoes  with 
the  produce  of  Cuba,  as  well  as  to  wait  the  junc* 
tion  of  the  galleons,  from  Carthagena  and  Porto 
Bello. 

The  fleet  df  galleons  consisted  of  six  to  eight 
dbips  of  war,  loaded  with  military  stores  and 
quicksilver  for  .working  the  mines,  and  convoying 
twdve  to  fourteen  merchantmen.     One  division 

2  n  !8.  pro- 


IpAiu 


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4M  Mgmsma  osaonMBr. 

cmwme.  ^pMceeded  to  CnxAmgemLf  where  tin  prodoetioiis 
^^'  of  TefraFkwa  were  cc^ected,  aad  another  to 
Porto  BeMo,  where  ttiey  received  1^  gdd  and 
silver  of  Peru  and  the  productiooB  of  Chili,  first 
-ccrflected  at  Panama,  aad  from  ttence  combed 
across  the  isthmus  to  Porto  Bello,  wlmie  a  simihr 
ibk*  to  that  of  Vera  CiUK  was  heU  on  tile  arrival  df 
the  galleofis* 

It  was  not  until  long  after  the  defects  a£  tim 
system  of  periodicai  expeditioiM  was  seen  and 
compkdned  of,  that  the  ^gudiced  and  jealous 
govermnent  of  Spain  permitt^  my  akeration,  and 
when  at  length  it  began  to  listen  to  these  com- 
plaints, its  mfeasures  of  melior^ttioEi  were  marked 
-by  the  same  distrustful  caution.  In  1734  a  certain 
number  of  vessels,  named  Azc^ues^  were  permitted 
to  accomp^my  die  ships  of  war  that  carried  out 
quidcsilver;  but  their  export  cargoes  were  con- 
fined to  fruits,  wines,  and  brandies,  fin*  which  th^' 
were  bound  to  bring  home  only  the  precious  me- 
tals in  exchange.  In  1799  ibe  periodical  galleons 
to  Porto  *ello  were  discontinued^  and  regist^ 
vessels  substituted,  to  whose  sailing  no  fixed  period 
was  assigned,  and  some  of  them  were  sent  direct 
to  Peru  round  Cape  Horn.  In  1763^  packet- 
boats  were  appointed  to  sail  regularly  firom  Co- 
runna  to  the  Havannab,  Porto  Rico,  and  Rio  dc 
la  Hata,  with  liber^  to  take  out  kaff'  caigoes  of 
tbe  prodnce  and  aanofactures  of  Spain,  and  to 
bring. home  *tf^car^oes  of  tiiose  of  America.  In 
1765  sevend  ports  of  Sjpain  were^noitted  to  trade 

directly 


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THE '  MSntEBlAVBAi^^  W6 

Meetly  witb  the  i^irish  iskHMb,  and  widi  the 
districts  of  Campeachy,  Santa  Martifia^  aad  Rio  de 
la  Hacba. 

At  length  the  administration  of  the  colonies  was 
confided  to  Galvjgz,  who  having  himself  visited 
them,  felt  the  necessity  of  a  more  open  tirade,  and 
consequently,  in  1778,  the  whole  of  Spanish  Ave* 
rica,  Mexico  excepted,  was  opened  to  the  ports 
of  Seville,  Cadiz,  Malaga,  Carthagena,  Barcelona, 
Alicant,  Almeria,  Tortosa,  St  Andero,  Gijon,  Co- 
runna,  I^Ima  in  the  island  of  Majorca,  and  l^ta 
Cruz  in  Texierifife  ;*  Biscay  alone,  from  refiwing 
to  admit  custom-bouses^  being  excluded  from 
this  privilege*  At  the  same  time  the  duties  on 
the  export  of  national  productions  and  manufacr 
tures  to  the  colonies  were  reduced,  a^  many  exr 
pensive  and  disagreeable  cuatom-house  formalities 
dispensed  with. 

The  freedom  of  commerce  to  America  had  the 
most  successful  result  on  its  augmentatioh»  ai)d 
in  the  consequent  increased  receipts  of  the  cu^ 
toms.  In  1778,  the  first  year  of  the  new  regu- 
lations, 170  vessels  sailed  for  America,  in  which 
wase:&ported 

National  produce  and  manufiEtttares  lor  nearly  28^  millr  reial% 
ForiJigQ  ditto  .t^. ditto..   48| 

^. 

Retams  Ijy  135  vesscb 74t 

•  These  ports  are  named  HabUitadoa,  i.  r.  qualified. 


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406  MARITIME  GEOGRAFHT. 

In  die  tame  year  die  datiiet  on  these  'exports  Y    ^  r     .^i  reals 

produced - i 

Aod  oo  imports 3 

9|aiiUioi|« 

In  1788  was  exported  national  produce  and  7  ,^01 

manufactures  for J 

Foreign  ditto ,  142§ 

'    300} 
Returns    , 804 J 

And  in  the  same  year  the  receipt  of  duties  ira^    ^^  miUioos 

Though  the  commerce  of  America  has  thus 
been  made  free  to  the  principal  ports  of  Spain, 
Cadiz  still  possesses  two-thirds  of  the  whole.  Of  the 
300  J  millions  of  exports  in  I788,  she  had  upwards 
of  200  millions,  and  Barcelona  thirtjr-one  millions. 
Of  the  imports  of  the  same  year,  amounting  to 
804 §  millions,  .Cadiz  received  635  milKons,  and 
Barcelona  thirty-five  and  a  half.  In  1792  Cadiz 
exported  of  national  productions  and  manufactures 
for  ^0  millions  j  and  the  returns  in  the  same  year 
amounted  to  7OO  millions. 

To  her  American  colonies,  Spain  sends  of  her 
own  produce  and  manufactures,  coarse  woollens, 
printed  cottons,  stockings,  Ijnens,  threads,  tapes, 
ribbands,  silk  handkerchiefs,  hardware  and  cut- 
lery, earthenware,  painted  chimney  tiles,  hanging 
and  writing  paper,  silks,  leather,  ^nd  shoes.  Thpse 
objects  form  above  one-third  of  the  cargoes,  the 
other  two-thirds  being  composed  of  foreign  mer- 
chandize,  viz.  fine  woollens,  linens  and  cottons, 
lace,  hats,  boots,  &c. 

The 


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tH£  MEDITERRAKEAK.  407 

The  colonies  of  Spain,  on  the  east  side  of  North 
America,  are  the  islands  of .  Cuba,  Porto  Rico,, 
aad  Marg^eritta,  in  the  West  Indies ;  the  Flori-) 
das  and  Old  Mexico.  The  Spanish  port  of  St 
D<»ai|igo  was  ceded  to  France  by  the  treaty  of 
Basle,  and  the,  island  of  Trinidad  to  En^and  by 
the  treaty  of  Amiens.  Spidn  also  ceded  Louisia- 
Ba  to  France  in  1801,  by  whom  it  was  transfer- 
red  to  the  United  States  in  180S* 

From  Cuba  Sp?un  receives,  by  tiie  port  of  thiE^ 
Havannal^,  cocoa,  jsngar,  and  most  of  the  othei! 
productions  of  the  West  Indies.  From  Portq 
RiccH  by  the  port  of  St.  John,  an  insignificant 
quantity  of  sugar,  coffee,  and  cotton..  From 
Margueritta  a  very  litde  cotton  only.  The  Plori- 
das  afford  no  ojbject  of  export  to  the  mother 
country. 

,  .  From  Mexico^  by  the  port  of  Vera  Cruz,  Sp^ 
{receives  gold  and  silver,  coined  and  in  ingots, 
indigp, ;  cochineal,  vaniljia,  jallap,  balsam  of  co- 
p«ijba  and  tolu^  cpcoa,  and  some  silk  and  cotton* 
yhe .  te^ories  of  ^aippeachy^  Yucatan,  and 
j^nduiys,.  ?iSafd  only  logwood,  fustic,  mahogany, 
imraapari)};^  ^nd  tortoise-shell.  The  districts  of 
Pprtp  Bi^o;  and  Vpragua  export  nothing  to  Eu- 
.M)pe^ 

In  Soud»  America  Spain  possesses^  in  the  West 
In^an  «ea^  .the  country  heretofore  called  Terra 
flrpa,  ex^ndmg  from  the  isthmus  of  Panama 
to  Guiana,  at  present  comprising  the  provinces 
of  Darien,  Carthagena,  and  Santa  Martha,  in  the 
new  kingdom  of  Grenada,  and  the  captain-gene^ 
S  D  4  ralship 


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408  MARTnafE  GiooiAPBrf; 

ralship  of  the  Caraeeas.  Tbe  province  eif  Darien 
aflbr&  tio  olject  <^  export  t6  lEaroper  atid  t^M^ 
oi  Cartliageim  and  Stote^  Mirirtfia  only  «.titA«  oof* 
ton ;  but  by  the  port  of  C^^i^ina  are  exj^orted  Ae 
productions  6tthe  tf^hbouring*  couttCriet^  nfcfeb 
^e  the  same  as  thoM  oiP  the  Citaccad.    - 

The  great  trafct  of  country  now  eotArpr^bencie^ 
m  the  captain-genei^alaMp  of  tbef  Caraceas^  wbb 
totally  neglected  by  Spdltf^  and  its  trade  wj»  eB^* 
firely  in  the  hands  of  tlte  Diitch  of  Cur^ao^  &c. 
by  contraband,  until  17^>  i^hed  ^itmte  Anercbints 
of  Biscay  proposed  tto  the  gtfternrteht  t6  "imt  2< 
^op  to  this  smuggKn^,  by  k^e^mig  ^med  vc^^s 
on  the  coast,  provided  they  were  permitted  te 
send  vessels  annnally  ftoM  Si.  Sebastian's  to  bring 
home  ccteoa,  whicfr  they  were  bound  io  lafld  a* 
Cadiz  only.  In  1784  and  I766  their  privfle^ 
W^e  extended,  ami  nhder  thei^  m^magi^imfent  the 
commerce  was  flourishing,  sixty  ships  of  300  totis 
ea^b  being  employed  in  it  annuity,  by  which 
were  imported  40,00()fkhegas  of  iocodi'  bodies 
tobacco,  hidesi  taBow,  ind  indigO.  The*  looses 
occasioned  by  capture  in  the  Am^eiEm  war,  *thA 
ftee  trade  granted  ih  1778,  and  thef  ill  conduct  of 
the  company's  agents  iik  Amerie*,  brought  its 
affairs  into  disorder,  and  in  I78S  it  was  supprbss- 
ed  i  but  si.  Sebastiarf  still  retained  the  privilege  of 
iiending  ships  to  the  Caraccas.  La  Gityrii,  HPbrto 
GabeFloi  ahd  Cumana,  are  the  only  pkwtjl  of  this 
province  that  have  a  direct  trade  with  £is^|)e. 

Though  Spain  has,  (with  a  few  intervds  of  ex* 
ception)  strictly  prohibited  the  etitilittce  of  tnf 

-foreign 


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fereiga!  ywudi  into  Ite  port$  ^f  Kar  Amenctot 

Tern  fintaa  teirfe  been  dw«y»  takefi^  cff  by  stran^' 
gea^  the  ooionii^  bding  p<erfi^ltted  to  eixporH 
tben^  eo6w  €xcepted»  istbeircy^ii'v^^ssek,  tothttf 
mlBJin  <if  otheo'  iid1i<Mis%  Pr^vkms  to  the  wat 
^*flli  Bngtod^  in  179^  iWimiie  liras  very  comi- 
dmUef  but  thi9  ^Vent*  putting  ad  enture  stt^  t& 
it^  t9liht  great  ifi^ttty  e^tbe  aAcft^tB,  gorermnenff 
iraiin^hiciMi  t^  relttt  tlie  ligoar  of  its  praMbitions^ 
smA  i»  ddttit  netittda  into  certain  port9.  Tbit 
xtestnotty  hox909ett,  beifig  ccmnplained  ^  by  ihe 
nwdutttf  athotne^  Was  revoked,  and  the  resnilt 
that  3iiigfat  have  been  ftfteseen  took  place :  of.  all 
Urn  vesBeli^  Ihat  alft^tnipted  to  sail  between  Spainf 
efkA  Atbeiiea  BCBata  cine  ^tOUpei  the  English  eruis- 
era.  IHm  ONnrehMMs  were  rUined,  and  a  total 
cessatioit  of  th^  l^iade  was  k  necessary  conse* 
cpitoaei  iln  1791,  177  v^sdels  ettered  Cadiz 
aliKW  ihMftthecd««tiiM  in  1801  the!  whole  of  the 
piHi» of  SpaiiVfeeei^vedobfy twenty!     \ 

The  inqGNSMtifaiUty  of  sending  their  produce  to 
£inrope,;  dr  of  exciiaMgiBg  it  with  any  of  the  fo«^ 
]%i^«Qloni<^fl^  aeii«te<  #ith  O^nglanci,  reduced  the 
ctdonists  e£  Terttt  S$rmb  to  the  necessity  of  S5s^ 
jposilig'Of  i«  datodfesthiely  to  the  Eri^Hfil^^  and  thib 
Btitista  gdvet^m^  gnmted  them  evay  facilrly 
for  thiB  pufpos^  bJF  pbi^ikirlting  the  nav^  com-- 
ntia(odiiifi  to  give  them  safe  conducts ;  and  eighty 
vessels  un4er  Spi^nish  colours  have  been  seen  at 
one  time  in  j^agston^^^janaiea.  That  (^aadet^Mr 
tnule,  ib  i9W,  btxMpM  4)00  Spanish  vefiisel^  A^bo 

cleared 


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410  IfAUTXME  OEQGlAPfiT. 

cleared  Qittirou  the  ports  of  Terra  Ftnn^  &rthe 
Frentb)  orneHtral  klaads ;  and,  oa  tbeir.retam, 
produced  &bi;icated  French,  or  neutral  deaian- 
COS,  which  passed  without  examination.  P<Mt0^ 
CabeHo  alone,  had  100  ves^ls  thus  employed,  in- 
which  were  exported  to  the  British  islands  indigo^ 
0o£fee,  cocoa,  bides,  copper,  cotton,  bOrses  aifed 
mules,  &c.  to  the  amount  of  a  million  ^  4<]U^^rs; 
and  for  ij^hich  was  given  in  e3((^bge  dry  good^ 
The  peace  of  Amiens  did  QOt  put  an  esd  to  this 
trade ;  for  the  Spanis^r^s,  filing  it  more  pnofifci^* 
ble  to  receive  the  ob^cts  ^ey*  stood  in  need  d 
from  the  En^ish  th^m  from  Spwi,  thenutaaer 
«ily  was  somewhat  changed,  British  armed  iiner- 
dumt  vessels  being  cl)iefly  employed  in  it,  who 
ran  into  the  unfreqif|(j;^d  ports  of  the  Spanish 
colonies,  where  the  Spanish  guarda  ceotas^ittiough 
of  far^ superior  forc^  dared^fiptiaHKck  them« 

From  the  province  /of  ^enpp .  4yW3,  hy  Ike 
Bio  de  la  iBata,  SpaiQ  j^peiye^  .pakt  .of  thmprtecaous 
metals  of  ChihV  Peruvi^i}^  b^)c,  indigt^;  f»M^neai, 
ippecacuanah,  tobacco,  pi9;^nt0,#sug^»\  cotton, 
liides,  and  tallow^  From  Peru  «adCbiU,  by  the  port 
of  lima,  round  Cape  Uq^  thft-predous  fewtela,* 
Peruvian  bark^i  and  other  fdrugs  w4  Vijg^a  wooL 
The  provinces  of  GsUifocnia,,  and  the  coast  o£ 
North  West;^merica,  poa^^ed  by  the  Spaniards, 
^ord  no  o^ects  (^export;  to  thf  mother  eouotxy. 

Thoo|^ 

•  According  to  the  most  moderate  estiBiate,  the  lumnal  amount  of  tht 
previow  mecabiopatfiy  imported  itilo  %4iittcoeli^  five  mllSenfl  ;tefliiig» 
jjpAnear^  aa  equjal  fum  Sa  suppo^^  ^|f^f9dHoe4  dfwlirtiii^f. 


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THE  MEDrr£»EA19£AM.  411      . 

Though  Spain  had  acqxiked'  the  undisputed  cpmmmu. 
possession  of  Luconia^  the  piinci^l  of  the  Archi-  ^"- 
pelagoof  the  Philippines,  at  the  close  of  the  six- 
teenth century,  it  was  not  until  1784,  that  these 
inlands  had  any  direct  commercial  intercourse  with 
the  mother  country.  In  that  year  a  Philippine 
company  was  established  at  Cadiz,  with  the  exclu- 
sive privilege  of  importing  into  that  port  only  the 
productions  of  India  and  China,  and  of  re-export- 
ing them  to  the  Spanish  colonies  of  America, 
I^Afexico  excepted,  which  was  reserved  to  the 
merchants  of  Manilla^  to  supply  by  the  galleons.)* 
In  J  803  this  company  was  new  modelled,  when  it 
received  extended  privileges  for  twenty-two  years ; 
and  its  capital  was  fixed  at  twelve  millions  of  dol- 
Is^,  in  shares  of  ^40  dollars/ and  the  king  took 
5,990  shares.  The  company  have  a  factory  a£ 
Manilla,  wjiere  ai'e  ppllected  the  productions  ot 
India  and  China,  to  be  shipped  for  old  Spain,  as 
well  as  (or  I^ima  apd  Guatimala,  The  company's 
trade  is,  however,  still  y^ry  inconsiderable,  occu- 
pying only  two  annual  ships  between  ^urppe  and 
ManilBt,  and  one  between  the  lati;er  and  the 
western  American  provinces. 

Spain  claims  the  I^adrone,  or  Marianne  Isfaf|ds» 
by  right  of  discovery^  and  dai^likd  aij  eStii?1feh- 
ment  of  missi6naries  and  a  few'siAdier^  on  Oitam, 
since  1688.  TMs  islahd  has,^  hbwe?6fci  no  tfcm- 
munication  with  the  mother  country,  the  soldiers 
)}emg  sent  from  America,  and  the  island  supplied 
\     .  ■■••>—■•,     -With 


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41f  l#ABI7IDi«  0^^^*AtUt. 

cmMertt.    witb  tiie  obje<^  it  reqmit^s  hf  the  galleon,  on  Iier 
return  from  Aespideo  to  Maii3la. 


itti7.  Though  the  Italian  territoiyj  in  general^  affords 

a  great  variety  of  valuable  objects  of  external  com- 
merce in  the  produce  of  the  soITj  the  trade  is  far 
from  being  carried  to  the  extent  it  is  susceptible  of, 
were  the  inhabitants  more  industrious  or  enter- 
|)rising. 

Genoa,  whicb  so  long  rivalled  Venice  as  a  naval 
and  commercial  state,  has,  by  the  succession  of 
events,  been  gradually  reduced  until  it  fell  into 
the  aH-grasping  talons  of  the  French  eagle.  At 
the  beginning  of  the  last  century  its  powerful 
^eets  were  already  dwindled  to  six  galUes,  and 
when  four  more  were  put  on  tHe  stocks,  the  higli 
aiid  puissant  lords  were  told  by  the  French  kii]|^ 
that,  as  they  could  have  no  occasion  far  so  laxp^  a 
force,  they  hjid  fetter  spare  themselves  the  ex- 
.  pense.  Since  this  pViod  their  coQ^merce  has  been 
confined  to  coasting  in  th^  Mediterianpan.  The 
exports  consist  of  ' 
iBiee^  S^ap,  ^    .  Embroidered 

.    ^  %uit,    ..rLiPfflfVl  wlksiindvel- 

*  Olive  oiV,     Jlfhi^  vets. 

.  T^9  ixnpocts.are  cfai^y  saitfidi» 


Venice,  in  her  proud  days  named  Ae  Queen  qf 
ffie  Adriatic^  retained  a  great  d^tee  of  prosperity, 

even 


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Itai^-. 


tfmi  «fter  hv  pdlftical  tHMweqii^ca  hud  vaHished^  <^^- 
aad  jd^e  ladtn  iitide^  the  principat  3owce  of  her 
rkhes,  had  been  turned  into  anothw  chaoBel. 
This  ppes|^en<y  wes^  ho^^ever,  chiefly  the  resak  of 
the  fortunes  acquired  by  ber  ancient  tmde»  and  in* 
herited  by  her  noble  famih'fts,  for  her  modern  com« 
merce  has  been  almost  entirely  confined  to  the 
carrying  trade  of  the  Turkish  dominions,  and  since 
the  jrise  of  Trieste,  a  considerable  portion  of  this 
tmde  has  been  wrested  from  her.  The  exports  are^ 
Rice»  Scarlet  cloth, 

Olives,  Gold  and  silver  stufis,  . 

Olive  oil.  Looking  glasses,  and 

Coral,  other  glass  ware. 

Turpentine  or  Venice 
treacle. 


Under  the  first  of  the  Medicis,  the  Republic  of 
Rerenceeiigoyedalarge  share  of  the  commerceof  the 
Mediterrane^A ;  but  when  the  sovereignty  became 
hereditary,  the  intercourse  with  the  proud  German 
and  Spanish  noblesse  rendered  trade  disgraceful  in 
the  eyes  of  the  men  (^famity,  who  sought  honour 
ofaly  ia  the  cannon's  mouth ;  hence  the  trade  of 
Tncany  dedmed,  and  what  remained  tell  into  the 
hsmtiA-of  fftcaii^rs.  WImq  L^horji  was  declared 
a  ffee  port,  it  became  one  of  the  princjipal  marts  of 
the  MediterntMaefin*  Its  trade  chiefly  consists  in 
importation  of  English  merchandise,  which  it  re-* 
exports  to  aU  paits  of  tbe  Mediterranoant  aqd  rer 
reives  in  Ti^urn  ^  ot^ects  of  their  produce  to 

load 


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414 


KARtTDiS  oxo6«ArarT« 


July. 


Sicily. 


load  the  Bcitlafa  ships  back.  The  export  of  liie 
productions  of  Tuscany  are  silk^  raw  and  Aianii* 
factured,  oHve  oil,  incense,  frnits,  and  naarble^ 
The  imports  are  spices  and  other  cdonial  produce, 
salt  &h,  and  manufkctured  goods. 


The  trade  of  Naples  is  circumscribed  by  the 
want  of  capital,  whence  the  merchants  are  obliged 
to  wait  for  orders  before  they  begin  to  collects 
cargo,  Tdiicb  is  also  generally  paid  for  in  ready 
money  or  short  credit,  which  necessarily  Umits  the 
trade  to  narrow  operations.  The  exports  are, 
Raw  silk  to  France     Manna,       Aniseed, 

and  England,  Honey,       Hemp, 


Oil  of  olives.               Wax, 

Coriander, 

Wool,                         Salt, 

Sulphur, 

White  and  red  ar-    Potash, 

Cheese, 

gols.                        Fruits, 

Fish, 

Cotton,                       Safiron, 

Macaroni, 

Flax,                           Gums, 

Oak  and  chesnut 

Wines,                         Capers, 

cask  staves* 

The  greatest  import  to  Naples  is  salt  fish. 

The  climate  and  soil  of  Sicily  affords  a  variety  of 
valuable  objects  of  commerce,  to  which  its  posi- 
dition  is  also  singularly  well  adapted ;  but  under 
its  degraded  government,  all  nature's  bounties 
seem  to  be  wasted  on  it,  and  such  is  the  state  of 
the  people,  that  it  is  not  uncommon  to  see  the 
poor  die  in  the  streets  of  the  capital  for  want  o£ 
bread,  while  the  hosts  of  princes  and  nobility 
squander  away  their  large  fortimes  and  waste  their 

time 


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THB  MfiDITERRAKBAV. 


415* 


time  in  balls^  masquerades  and 
laeries.      ' 
The  exports  from  Sicily  are, 


religious  mum«  <2ww«r«- 

,  iicily. 


Barilki* 

Sulj^ur, 

Silk, 

Wine, 

Brandy, 

Tartar, 

Coral, 

Raisins, 

Figs, 

Currants, 

Sweet  and  bitter 

almonds, 
Hazle  nuts. 


Pistachios, 

Lemons  and  le- 
mon juice. 

Oranges, 

Essences  of  Je- 
mon  and  ber- 
gamot. 

Marble, 

-Amber, 

Salt, 

Soap, 

Manna,t 

Cantliarides,t^^ 


Sumac,  § 
The  imports  to  Sicily  are. 

Salt  cod  and      Coffee, 
herrings.  Sugar, 

Tanned  leather,  Cochineal,  indi- 


Tin, 
Iron, 
'Lead, 
Copper, 
Spices  of  all 
sorts. 


go,  and  dye 

woods. 
Pitch  and  tar, 
Copperas, 
Manchester 

goodie, 


Liquorice, 
Linseed  and  Iiti- 

.  seed  oil, 
Olive  oil. 
Locusts, 
Rags, 
Goat,  kid,  apd 

rabbit  skins,li 
Anchovies, 
Tunny  feh, 
Wheatandother 

com,^ 
Argols,  &c» 


Irish  linens. 
Silk  and  cotton 

stockings, 
Hardware^   - 
Earthemware, 
Alum, 


The 


•  Fifty  thousand  cantari.  t  Ten  tbotMaad  pwinds.  I 

X  Forty  cantari.  §  Thirty  thouaand  Balms. 

n  Great  quantities  of  goat,  kid,  and  lamb  skins  are  sent  to' England  anjl 
Oenuany ;  the  rahbit  skins  and  rabblf  s  wool  chiefly  to  Fhuee^  for  the 
/nannfhctars  of  hats.  i^ 

%  Wheat  and  barley  to  Leghorn  and  Ge^oa ;  btos  and  other  pnlite  ta 
Jdpafti. 


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Biiily. 


4ld  MAwyiwii  €9««atAfinr. 

Theioiportation  of  0O8t  cHheee  olfatts  is 
consida^ble,  particularly  of  those  for 
parel,  the  Sicilians  haviBg  m  mmofyictii/xes  but  of 
the  very  coarsest  sort  ^ottjgnesB  pay  five  peri 
jDore  duties  Uian  the  Dutiiye^  severtheless  1 
is  princ^iiily  passive* 


The  Island  of  Sardinia  is  rich  in  objects  of  com* 
merce,  amongst  which  provisions  (beef,  vegetables 
and  fiour)  are  the  most  considerable,  and  200  ves- 
sels from  Minorca  load  with  these  objects  annuallj. 
The  tunny  fishery  at  St  Peters,  on  the  N.W.  eud 
of  the  island,  is  the  most  productive  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean. The  other  objects  of  e^ort  are. 
Goat,    %  livehogsand    Wine, 

Kit,       #  cattle.  Brandy, 

Fox,      VSkins,        Flour,  Barilla 

Rabbit,  i  Biscuit,  Sarch, 

Calf,      J  Indian  com,      Caper^ 

Bullocks*  hidesf,        l^acaroons,       Cork, 
Fruits,  ^Salt,  Cheese. 

Salted  provisions, 

Next  to  tumiy  fish  and  provisions,  salt  is  the 
object  of  greatest  export,  and  any  number  of  sbiypi 
may  procure  cargoes  ^  CagUari :  it  is  used  in  tjm 
Newfoundland,  Norway  and  Baltic  fisheries. 

The  imports  are  chiefly  qpices,  rum,  and  mano- 
fiurturas  Sar  dotihiog.  Foreignecs  pay  ^igjbtem 
per  cent  ad  vahnrm^  and  natives  fifteen  per  ceat 
The  value  of  exports  is  estimated  at  JC¥iQJMlP^ 
and  the  imports  at  «£100,000. 


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VStti  ^iAim^iiatkJfiiAm  417 

fci  iSte  Irade  €f  the  Ripat  iTerMtoiy  is,  even  in 
bimpiU^n  With  diat  o^  the  dthet  Jut^im  States,  in^ 
iiff^i&tmt^  [th^^^^  and 

Jjaicooa^lmngc^fti&iteS  to  a  fittle  woof,  aldih,  teiW 
d^idUbre,  fnlitBy  and  linen  rags.  The  impoirts  ^ire 
obiedy  «aliMf,-g64onial  prodtice,and  manufltcfeured 

.V//1    J   in    /.if  -'^^   -  •'  ' '  "  '   [■■ 

.  '•      '  .  '  *  .  .*         • ' 

malt^  tlipiigh  possessing  ^eat  advantage  of 

Aibiation  for  commerce,  had  und^  its  knights  fcut 
ustngte  square-rigged  merchant  vessel.  Thest 
sovereigns  deriving  the  greater  p^t  of  their  in- 
comes/from  the  possessions  of  the  Order,  CMit  <tf 
the.  island,  were  not  under  the  necessity  of  trying, 
to  enrich  tliemselves  by  commerce,  at  the  same 
fime  that  they  dreaded  the  native  Maltese  better- 
ing their  condition,  and  Tooking  towards  indepen* 
^ence'j  hence  the  trade  of  the  island  was  restrained 
by  prohibitions,  duties,  and  monopolies*  The 
English  having  none  of  these  motives  t0  actuate 
them,  the  speculations  of  the  inhabitants  were 
fre^d  from  all  restraints,  aqd  the  island  has  latterly 
beeh  a  vast  magazine  of  British  merchandize ;  seve- 
ral hundred  vessels  visiting  it  eyerpr  year. 


CMiRurt*. 


-r 


.  Tlie  tfatte  of  Trieste^  pteviotis  to  its  be<i(ittrfng  a 
ftt&pgirlv  wa«.  vety  Jifelgnificanf,  but  hasttipicfly 
increased,  and  it  at  present  exports  the  produce  of 
Hungary,  Bohemia,  Moravia,  Silesia,  ^nd  other 
countries  of  Germany,  and  sends  them  in  return 
fliUffie  foreign  objects  they  require. 

VOL.  n*  2  £  The 


Mitu. 


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Isorku 


il6  HABITIHS  GBOGEAFWr* 

The  comiQer^B  of  the  ether  ports  6f  Jstxkk  w 
confined  to  tl^  export  of  stMne  ship-timber  to 
Venice.  Fiume  sends  som^  naUs*  plaidcs»  and 
tobacco  abroad,  Austrism  (Croatia  ha»  scarce  any 
objects  of  export,  except  ship-timber,  tl^e  abun* 
dance  of  which  induced  the  Emperor  Joseph^  to 
attempt  the  creation  of  a  navy,  for  which  pui|ia6e 
an  arsenal  was  established  at  Portore,  and  two 
frigates  built .  there  }  but  the  total  want  of  na- 
tional seamen  rendered  this  attempt  abortive, 
and  the  frigates  were  made  a  present  to  the 
Archduke  of  Savoy. 

The  trade  of  Upper  Dalmatia  employs  only  a 
few  coasters,  who  export  the  bullocks  of  Bosnia 
and  Croatia,  from  Zara  to  Venice.  Lower  Dal- 
matia is  more  rich  in  objects  of  commerce,  ex- 
porting from  Spalatro  (formerly  to  Venice,  at 
present  to  Trieste)  a  considerable  quantity  of 
com,  wool,  silk,  honey,  wax,  Morocco  skins,  and 
salted  bides  of  Bosnia.  The  Dalmatian  islands 
also  send  a  considerable  quantity  of  wine  to 
Spain. 

The  Ragusans,  And  the  inhabitants  of  the  ter- 
ritory of  Cattaro,  had  a  great  number  of  small 
vessels  employed  in  the  coasting  trade  of  the 
Adriatic  and  Levant.  A  part  of  the  productions 
of  Bosnia  were  also  exported  .by  these  channels^ 
particularly  sqoke(l  mutton^  sheep  ikins»  and 
wool. 


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Gnkwint» 


e    tHE  MfiDITXRRANEAV.  *     4l^ 

llie  ;despQtism  of  the  Mahomxnedan.  govenu 
ntentyi  and  the  moral  indoleiice  of  the  /Turks,  are  ^^' 
in^rect  opposition  to.  an  active  commerce  j  and 
hence;  since  their  establiahnent  in;Bu£ope,  their 
maritiin^  trade  has  b^en  .  entirely  passive^  even 
the  business  of  coasting,  until  aie^  yearsmnce^ 
being  carried  on  entirely  by  the  vessels;  of  France^ 
Venice,  and  Ragusa.  Before  the  revolution,,  the 
ports  9f  Provence  had  100  vj^ssels  of  100  to  gOO 
tons  bunl^p,  called  caravans,  employi^.in  the 
Levant  tra4e.  >:.  . 

The  late jnaritime  wars.  crcMtted:^  great  ohangio 
in  the  commercial  navigation:  of,  ithe^  IVfediterra^ 
nean,.  and  more  particularly  ^  in  •  th^t  of  tha 
Turkish  dominions,  throwing  the  greater  part  of 
the  coasting  trade  into  the  haoids  of  the  Greeks 
of  the  Archipelago.  Uns  revolution  commenced 
in  1796^  when  a  great  "scarcity  of  corn  prevailing^ 
in  France,  and  the  French,  Italisu;!,:  and  Spanish 
^ag^f  not  daring  to  shew  tiiemselves^  a  few  Greeks 
were  induced,  for  the  £rst  time,  to  venture  acrosa 
the  Mediterranean  with  cargoes  of  wheat}  which: 
produced  so  great  a  profit,  that  more  extensive 
speculations  were  entered  into  tbythe  Gjceekd 
of  several  of  the  islands,  and  so  tX^pid  .was  th^ 
progress,  that  in  1800  ((hey  counted  ftOO.  vessel^ 
carrying  on  the  trade  of  the  Mediterranean.  Of 
these,  200  square  rigged,  of  bet^^een  100  aa^d-^ 
400  tons,  belonged  to  the  barren  island  of  Hydrv. 
some  of  them  mounting  thirty  guns  witli  seventy 
mexij  for  I  defence  against  the  Barbary  corsairs. 
TTie  proportion  of  the  other  islands  was,  ^^aros 
.  2  E  2  eighty 


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Turkgf^i 


4£0  Mjaaxvm  OBO^njjmr. 

eif^ttj  vtsieiBf  some  stffl  lateen  rigged;  Spezia 
eighty,  of  whom  a  &m  doly  were  square  ri^^ed  i 
Ipsara  HAyi  Sctia  Nova,  a»d  the  other  ports 
400*  The  Oreeks:  ate,  however,  still:  far  behind 
in  the  nanagemetit  of  their  vessels,  and  tlie 
large  ones,  in  which  only  the  compass  is  in  U9^ 
have  always  an  European  to  direct  their  naviga* 
tion.  ^ 

The  Turkish  dominions  aflbrd  a  great  variety 
of  ccnnmercial  productions,  ^e  greater  part  of 
which  are  exported  in  the  raw  state;  amongst 
Aem  cotton  hdlds  the  first  place,  and  is  principally 
tiken  off  by  the  French  from  Smyrna  and  Con- 
stantinople ;  wool  is  next  m  consequence;  and 
also  gOe^  chiefly  to  France,  from  Enos,  Rodesto, 
and  Contrtantinople. 

The  exports  of  Albania  are  of  little  importance, 
both  from  the  unptoductiveness  of  the  •country; 
and  from  the  uncivilised  state  of  its  inhabitants. 
Of  late  years,  (he  trade  has  been  confined  to  send- 
ing half  a  dozen  small  cargoes  of  oil  to  Trieste 
and  Venice ;  three  or  four  of  wool  to  Ancona  and 
Genoa ;  three  or  four  of  wheat  to  Genoa  ;  one  or 
two  of  tobacco  to  Naples  j  and  some  ship  timber 
to  Toulon.  The  English  have  no  commercial  in- 
tercourse widi  the  coast  of  Albania. 

Greece  and  the  Morea  are  rich  in  commercisi' 
production^,  amongst  which  the  most  valuable 
are  :~- 

Cotton to  France  and  Italy. 

Wool to  Marseilles  and  Leghorn* 

SiHc to  Marseilles. 

Corn 


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Com    to  MaweiUes  a«ui  Italy.  ''^' 

Oil  to  Marseilles. 

Cuftants  . . .  •  •.  to  England,  HoUMd,  and  the 

North* 
Calves^"^ 
Groats    >skins 

^r      .|.  Vto  Marseilles. 

Vermuion 

Volonia 

Gall-nuts . .  • 


;on. .  I 
•  •  • .   \  . 


.   •  •  •     .1. 
•  •  «  •     ^ 

Wine   ......1 

(^^^^- Ito  Constantinople  and 

Fruits j         Smyrna.        . 

Butter -^ 

Brandy "| 

Linseed 

Kermes 

Gum-drag< 

Adraqant..  -  -   vx         -  ^  -^ 

nr  3r  >to  vanons  countms. 

Madder  .... 

Tw 

Oak  bark. . . . 

Wax  and  honey 

Fustic 

Kapoli  de  Bomania  and  Coron,  are  the  pripci* 

pal  trading  ports  of  the  Morea. 

The  province  of  Roumelia  affords  ;—         . 

.   Cotton -\ 

Buffidoeshides^  •  >  to  France  and  Italy. 

Ox  and  calve  skins  J 

2e  3  Bufialoen 

«  VteA  tcft  Mies  of  ^bdes.    A  tm£M6£fs  hide  sdh  fbr  twdve  itimingih 
^liep  an  ox'«  produces  oplty  ftfteen-peoce,  mid  a  calf's  ten-pence. 


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Tar  key. 


40^  jiABimqB /^wwurar. 

Boftloes  toqgues^  salted  .and  smoked.   • 
Morocco  skins.*  .    . 

Anatolia  affi)rds»  by  the  .port  of  Smyrna,  in 
which  almost  its  whole  foreign  trade  centers  : — 
Cotton,       Carpets,  Wine,  Wax, 

Copper,       Drugs,  Fruits,  Sponge, 

Silk,  Angora  wool.  Gall-nuts.    Barilla, 

I^eather,      Madder,  Saffi-on,        Hides,  &c. 

Syria  exports  of  its  proper  produce  : 

-D  a*t    *V-V'  ?^  chiefly  to  France. 
Bunaloes  hides  >  i     ' 

Potash,  to  Marseflles  ^nd  Candia,  for  the 

manu&cture  of  soa]^.  * 

Natron,  to  France. 

Carthamus.t  * 

Dates,  Goat  skinis.       Tobacco, 

Birdlime  Copper,  Silk, 

Wax,  Madder,  Drugs  Ixrf  Ai»- 

Wheat,  GaU.nuts^   ^      CoflFeeJ     ^^ 

Chevron  wool,1: 
The  port  of  Alexandretta  receives  about  fifteen 
yes3els  annually  from  Europe,  which  are  reloaded 
T6r  the  places  from  whence  they  came ;  there  is 
also  a  considerable  coasting  trade  by  Greek  ves- 
sels, between  the  coast  of  Syria  and  Caramania. 

Egypt 

•  Deer  and  goat  skim  alone  are  tfaui  prepared. 

t  .Bastard  safiron.  From  its  flowers  the  vegetable  rouge  is  made,  and  of 
'wliici  there  is  a  great  consumption  in  France. 

t  A  soft  silky  wool  that  fonai  on  the  eamel  iu  winter^  aad  lUb  <iff  ifk 
Wnmer. 


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THB  MBDIT£ltltAK)ZAK«  4Sd 

r   Eg)"pt  exports  of  its  produce 
Eice,        Raw  SUk,    Elephant's  teeth,  \  from  tbt  in-    '^'^^' 
Wheat,      Oil,  Ostrich  feathers,  v   tcrior  of 

Dates,     •  Soap,  Ebony,  )    ^^^• 

JPhiits,       Leather,       Coffee  of  Arabia. 

The  greatest  part  of  the  gums  and  resins  used 
iti  medicine  are  also  brought  from  Egypt,  which 
receives  them  from  the  east  coast  of  Africa,  Ara* 
bia,  Persia,  and  India, 

Turkey  pays  for  the  productions  of  India  she 
receives  through  Syria  and  Egypt  chiefly  in  specie, 
to  the  amount  of  ten  millions  of  Turkish  piastres 
per  annum;  the  deficiency  is  made  up  in  the 
copper  of  Anatolia. 

The  Turks  in  general  dislike  the  sea  service,  in  tmuut^v* 
which  they  must  forego  many  of  their  hs^bitudes, 
and  particularly  their  indolence;  hence,  though 
the  number  of 'their  vessels  of  war  has  been  at 
times  considerable,  their  marine  has  never  risen 
to  a  respectable  rank  among  those  of  Europe, 
poring  the  siege  of  C6nstantihople  by  Mahomet 
li.  the  Turkish  fleet  of  300  vessels  was  baffled  by 
one  Imperial  and  four  Genoese  ships,  who  re- 
lived the  place  with  mien  and  provisions.  At  a 
later  period  the  Florentines,  with  six  ships,  block- 
aded the  entrance  of  the  Hellespont  for  tlirep 
years,  and  prevented  the  Turks  from  receiving  the 
revenue  of  Egypt  by  sea. 

The  Turkish  marine  had,  however,  its  periods 
<)f  prosperity :  at  the  siege  of  Candia  it  was  so 
superior  to  that  of  Venice,  that  the  fleet  of  the 
latter  dared  not  attempt  the  reKef  of  the  place ; 

S  E  4  and 


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42^  ¥AM7fAtS  «EOCEAPKT. 

7\prktjkymfg.  and  after  the  capture  of  the  idand  of  Cyprus 
the  Turkish  sh^  s^ept  the  Archipelago,  and  eveil 
threw  Venice  into  consternation.     The  nayal  su- 
perioiity  of  the  Crescent  could  not,  however  l»e 
long  tamely  borne  by  the  Christiaq  powers  of  ,thf 
Mediterranean,  and  through  the  intervention  of 
Pope  Pius  v.,  a  league  was  forn>ed  against  the 
Ottomans,  composed   of  the  King  of  Spain»  the 
Pope,  and  Republic  of  Venice.     The  hostile  fleetS| 
however,   long  continued  to  watch  each  other, 
both  being  afraid  to  hazard  a  battle ;  and  when 
that  of  Lepanto  at  last  took  place,  it  was  owing 
to  the  erroneous  information  received  by  each  par« 
ty  of  the  strength  of  the  other.   In  this  celebrate4 
battle,    the  first  navs^  one  of  any  consequence 
fought  in  modem  times,  the  Turks  liad  S60  gaL 
lies  and  the  Christians  205.     The  result  of  th? 
fction  was  a  complete  victory  gained  by  the  latter, 
the  Turks  losing  130  gallics  tak^n,  eighty  burnt 
or   sunk,    and    having   25,000  men   killed  and 
wounded,    10,000  Turks    made    prisoners,    and 
25,000  Christian   slaves  released.     The   loss  in 
killed  and  wounded  on  the  side  of  the  allies  was 
10,000     The  Turks  however  got  possession  of, 
and  carried  off  the  captain  galley  of  Malta,  with 
the, standard  of  the  order,  which  was  exposed  at 
Constantinople  as  a  trophy  of  victory.   Under  the 
successors  of  Selim  II.,  in  whose  reign  this  battle 
^as  fought  (I57I),  jthe  Turkish  irifirine  I^  scarce 
an  existence ;   and  iq  the  reign  of  Murad  IV, 
{1623-1 640)  the  Cossacks  of;  the  Dnieper  d» 
cphded  Xliditfi^^  wit|):  .150  Ijpajts,  pftsfe^  ^rougl| 
'  -  »    .  the 


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TH&  MBDITERRANEAK.  4A5 

the  Bosphoros,  and  insulted  Constantinople  with  n»K*»i». 
impunity. 

The  Turks  however  followed,  though  but 
fdowly,  the  general  impulse  of  navigation  which 
arose  in  the  eighteenth  century ;  and  in  the  un- 
feflrtonate  battle  of  Tchesm^,  fought  in  1770, 
their  fleet  consisted  of  fifteen  ships  of  from  ninety* 
to  sixty  guns,  and  an  equal  number  of  xebecs  and 
goUies ;  the  Russian  force  was  but  ten  ships  of 
the  line  and  five  frigates.  Several  ships  of  both 
fleets  were  fougfit  with  great  bravery,  while  others 
kept  aloof.  SpiritofF,  a  Russian  admiral,  engaged 
thfi  ship  of  the  captain  pasha,  of  ninety  guns, 
9a  close,  that  the  latter  taking  fire  from  the'Rus* 
Stan  hand  grenades,  both  blew  up,  and  the  greats 
est  part  of  their  crews  were  destroyed.  The 
action  continued  till  night  without  any  mateiiai 
advantage  on  either  side,  but  when  it  grew  dark 
the  Turkish  fleet  cut  their  cables,  and  ran  into  a  bay 
on  the  coast  of  Anatolia,  where  they  were  totally 
destroyed  by  fire  ships,  directed  by  Lieutenant 
Dugdale,  an  Englishm^,  one  sliip  of  the  line  and 
^  few  gallies  only  being  towed  out  by  the  Russtans. 

Since  .this  unfortunate  batde  the  Turkish  go* 
Vernment  has  felt  the  necessity  of  a  respectable 
;Ba^ine,  and  having  induced  a  French  ship-buiidet 
to  duperinteud  the  works,  the  ships  are  no  longer 
what  Baron  de  Tott  describes  them,  <<  high  deck« 
^d,  the  lower  tier  laid  under  water  with  the  least 
wind,  entangled  rigging,  bad  cordage  and  blocks, 
lliirty  men  in  the  gun^^rocmi  to  move  the  tiller,  en>> 
fftonbered  decks,  and  guns  of  different  calibre  on 
w  the 


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426  MARITISfE  GSOGRAPHT. 

TmruAKMtf/.  ^jjg  g^me  decfc/'  But  though  the  present  Tuikidi 
ships  are  built  on  the  French  model,  the  ignorance 
and  timidity  of  their  oflScers  and  crews  remain  the 
same.  The  former,  not  rising  through  subordinate 
ranks,  are  totally  unacquainted  with  the  nature  of 
discipline,  and  hence  it  is  by  no  means  uncom'- 
mon  to  see  the  admiral  playing  chess  on  the  quar- 
ter deck  with  a  common  sailor,  from  which  he 
starts  up  to  give  his  captain  a  box  on  the  ear  ibr 
a  slight,  mistake.  In  harbour  a  Turkish  ship  of 
war  resembles  an  eastern  bazar,  having  a  shop 
between  every  two  guns. 

The  crews  are  composed  of  Turks  and  Greeks, 
the  former  working  the  guns  and  the  latter  the 
•hip.  The  Greeks,  who  are  named  GaligondaSf 
are  however  fast  retiring  from  the  imperial  service, 
tis  the  commercial  marine  of  their  own  nation  in- 
creases. While  they  remain  attached  to  the  for- 
mer service  they  receive  pay,  whetl^r  employed 
or  no^  on  condition  of  presenting  themsdves 
when  called  on.  The  Turks,  on  the  contrary,  are 
only  paid  when  in  activity,  and  when  their  ships 
are  laid  up  they  retire  to  their  several  places  of 
residence,  and  follow  other  occupations.  When 
on  an  emergency  an  extraordinary  levy  of  seamen 
is  required,  the  Grand  Signior  issues  a  firman, 
ordering  the  chiefs  of  the  islands  of  the  Archipe- 
lago and  the  govem(»rs  of  the  maritime  towns  to 
send  a  certain  number  of  men  to  Constantinople. 

The  Turkish  marine  is  commanded  by  a  Capidan 
Pasha,  or  high  admiral,  who  usually  hoists  his  flag 
during  war.    Under  him,  for  the  civil  admintftra* 

tioo> 


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tioD^  is  the  Tersana  Emm.  In  the  military  com-  rmM^ng. 
mand  the  next  officer  to  the  Capidan  Pasha  is  the 
CapitanOf  who  hoists  a  flag  at  the  main ;  the  Pa^ 
tronu  is  next,  and  hoists  a  flag  at  the  fore ;  and.  the 
Reala  at  the  mizen.  The  commanders  of  thegallies 
^re  tamed  Bet/Sy  and  usually  furnidi  and  equip 
thpir  vessels  at  their  own  expense,  a  certain  number 
of  slaves  being  jotted  to  .each  to  work  the  oars* 
The  ships^  of  w^r  are  bujlt  at  Constantinople, 
Ghfemlek,  Metelip,  .Staticho,  JRhodes  and  Sinc^e. 
The  Turkish  dcHiiinions  supply  oak  and  fir  timber, 
pitch,  tar,  hemp,  flax,  and  copper.  In  I794  the 
Turkish  navy  consisted  of  twenty-one  sail  of  the 
line,  of  which  one  was  a  three-decker ;  twenty 
fi*igates  and  sloops,  besides  gallies  and  small  ves* 
sels.  In  1801  the  serviceable  ships  were  only 
twelve  sail  of  the  line  and  fifteen  frigates,  and 
four  sail  of  the  line  building.  Besides  the  impe- 
rial ships,  the  Porte  can  fit  out  for  war  twenty 
large  merchant  vessels  called  caravals,  which  are 
employed  chiefly  in  importing  coffee  from  Alex- 
andria  to  Constantinople,  and  are  Capable  of  car- 
rying from  forty  to  sixty  guns.  The  states  of  Bar- 
bary  are  also  obliged  to  assist  the  Grand  Signior 
with  their  whole  naval  forces  when  called  upon. 


The  commerce  of  the  Barbary  states,  from  the   commrrcc. 
nature  of  their  governments,  their  religion,  and    ^"'^'^^ 
habits,  is  insignificant  in  comparison  ctf  what  it  is 
ciapable  of  bdtig  Wought  to  from  the  natural  pro- 
ductiveness of  l!he  soil;*     The  French  are  the 

only 

•  For  tht  commerce  gf  Morocco,  lee  West  Coast  of  Africa. 


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4^  UMoma  xatosKAMur. 

only  EuropMns  that  have  any  tlung  likean 
'•^''*    nised  trade  with  the  kingdom  of  Algiers^  audi 
this,  as  we  have  already  8eea»  iM  ^r^elyiftuctiiat« 
ifig.     The  objects  of  export  are 
Wheat,  Olive  oiU  Buibcks' hides,    WooU 
Barley,  Wax^        GoatdciM,  livebuikx^ 

PuIb^,    Honey,     Wjldbewts'stdns,  live  sheep. 

The  export  of  any  Idnci  of  provisions  is  pro* 
hibited  from  Algiers  or  any  of  th^  places  near  it ; 
bitt,  by  treaty  with  Engl^,  it  is  permitted  to 
export  cattle  from  Oran  to  Gibraltar, 

llie  articles  of  iipport  that  find  4  ready  sale  afe 
Coffee,   Alam,         Copperas,    SupeH^    wocl^ 
Spices,    Cutlery,       Logwood,       lens. 
Sugar,    Piglead,       Redwood,  Fine  Irish  linen, 
Hum,     Small  ahoC,  Tin,  Callicoes. 


The  kingdom  of  Tunis  b{is  had  a  very  consider^ 
able  export  trade  within  these  few  years,  sincQ 
the  cultivatioQ  of  com  and  olives  has  been  enr 
couraged,  and  the  interqourse  with  Ewopeana  has 
considerably  civilised  the  Tunisiaxis« 

The  pbjects  of  export  are 


Wheat, 

wad  beasts' skips.  Senna, 

B^ley, 

Wool,                   5pap, 

Beans^ 

,  Madder,               ,  Spoqge, 

Olive  oi^ 

Ivory,  ,                  Cotton, 

Wax^ 

.  Gold  dv9t,          ,   Ostrich  featl^m. 

Honey, 

Smletcapg,          OrchiUaweed. 

Hides.   . 

Zerbi  shawls. 

The 


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Tk^  com  goe»  chiefly  firom  Biserta  to  Brance^ 
8p8iD,  md  Itafy  ;  the  olive  oil  firoiq  Tunis,  So- 
liifiaii^  and  Susa,  pcincipaUy  to  Eranoe ;  sponge 
from  Suaa,  to  Itafy  and  Spaim^  soapv  hard  and 
M&^  made  <^  oHve  oil  and  barilla,  to'  Itjdy  and 
Sp^in.  Ti^  orchilla  weed  is  collected  neattha 
ruins  of  Carthage,  and  among  the  rocky  mountains 
east  of  Tunis  (  it  is  of  r.  very  inferior  quality* 
Great  quantities  of  wool  are  exported  from  most 
i}£  the  portfir  of  TVinis^  chiefly  to  France,  uiiere 
it  is  tnai^actured  intq  the  cloth  called  Lcmdrins 
and  se>6t  litelt  to  Barbaiy.  The  ivory  and  gold 
iMit  aitiv^  it  Tunis  hy  caravans  finnn  TcHnbucto 
in  Ilie  interior  of  AiVica. 

The  iiAp§tt»  to  Tunis  aie^ 
'  VtomTfipptti  maddort^ot  andsenna^ 
'  From  thei  Jtfbrvo,  dried  fruits. 

Vtmt  Sy^i  India  muslins,  cottons,  carpets, 
iiflcflf,  opiu»,, copper,  tQbacco. 

Frotti  Ttiestty  ^ass-wwe,  timber  in  beams  and 
planks,  ir(Hi,  fine  Knens,  woollens. 

From  l^>smf  wine,  brandy,  wod,*  naval  stores^ 

From  France,  hardware,  watches,  trindcets,  fine 
Unen,  woollen  cloths,  sugar,  coffee. 

From  L^ghopoj  Swedish  iron  in  bars  and  sheets 
lead  in  pigs  and  shot,  quicksilver,  aqua  fortis, 
Apices,  stick  ke,  gumWgamin,  sheQtiron,  alum^ 
cc^peras,  fiugar,  coffee,  do&,  cochineal,  lo^ 
wood^  napk^  fine  linens..  : 

.  Th<f 

•  '  i   .1^ 

r  ^  ("or  the  i]|Biiu(iict«re  of  red  caps^  rest  quantities  of  wLich  are  m^nii- . 
{iicturW  fo  Tuniiaiid  deported  to  haly  andf  raticc.  >    — » '  '*  -      - 


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430  MARrriJMts  oeographt. 

The  Tunisians  consume  «  considerable  .quantity 
of  English  goods/  (particularly  coar$e  wooUtos) 
which  they  receive  via  Leghorn.  English  and 
French  merchant?  pay  three  per  cent,  ad  vahrem 
im  their  goods  (naval  and  military  stores  excepted 
whiqji  are  duty  free)  j  other  naitions  pay  ten  per 
cent.  . 


j^«f.  Independent  of  the  natural  indoknc^  of  the 

Moorsy  the  want  of  good  ports  and  of  most  of  the 
materiak  for  naval  construction,  would  prevent 
Aem  from  having  any  naval  force>  were  they  not 
supplied  with  materials  and  even  occasionally  with 
ships  ready  equipped  by  the  European  govern- 
ments,   Perfaf^s  there  is  no  greater  politiQal  phe- 
nomenon in  the  prestot  time,  tbaii_  tjie  conduct 
of  the  maritime  poweils  toward?  the$&  barb9.ridiis, 
who  are  permitted  to  carry  on  their  p^jc^ies,  witk 
a  kind  of  impunity,  against  all  nations^,  who  do  not 
pay  them  for  forbearance.    Neverth€^les^  Morocco;, 
the  most  poweiful  of  these  states,  has  not  above 
fifteen  small  frigates,  some  xebecs,  aqd  twenty  to 
thirty  row  gallies,  manned  by  About  6,000  se?imeii 
and  soldiers.    Algiers  has  only  five  (rigates  of 
thirty-four  to  twenty-four  guns,  thre^e  xebecs  of 
twenty  to  ten,  four  half  galKes,  and  three  galliots, 
with    which  contemptible    force    it  has.   defied 
the  united  fleets  of  Spain,  Portugal,,  Naples,  and 
Malta. 

In  1784,  Spain,  outraged  by  the  insulte  of  these 
barbarians,   shewed    a  moment  of  eneV^y,''  and 

attempted 


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.1^£  MjSDITEaiRANeAm  ^<S1 

utt^mpted  t^  destroy  Algiers  by  bombardment; 
bqt  after  expending  200,000  quintals  of  powder 
^^nd  burning  2  to  300  woodenj.  houses,  her  fleet 
f  etired. .  The  following  year  she  returned  to  the 
attack,  joined  by  tlie  naval  forces  of  Naples,  Por* 
tugal,  and  Malt^,  which  together  composed  a 
fleet  of  thirty  Sail;-  the'Algerine  marine  however 
foiled  them,  and  Spain  finding  it  impossible  to 
«ubdue  tliem  while  they  were  supplied  with  naval 
stores  by  the  French  from  Marseilles,  purchased  a 
temporary  su8pen$ion  of  their  depredations  for 
70,000  piastres. 

Tunis  has  three  or  four  large  barks  of  twenty 
gjuns  and  120  men  each,  some  xebecs  of  ten  to 
fourteen  guns,  a  few  feluccas  and  galliots,  the 
whole  belonging  to  the  government,  not  exceeding 
fifteen  to  twenty  vessels,  besides  about  twenty 
armed  for  piracy  by  private  persons. 

The  rules  observed  by  the  corsairs  in  deter- 
n^ining  whether  a  strange  vessel  is  to  be  attacked, 
Reserve  mention.  The  captain  first  examines  her 
with  his  glass,  then  the  second  in  command,  and 
so  downwards  to  the  lowest  seaman,  when  the 
opinion  is  asked,  and  a  single  afiirmative  voice  £ot 
tlie  attack  is  obligatory  on  the  whole  crew,  al- 
|:hough  contrary  to  the  opinion  of  every  otheic 
person  that  composes  it. 


BarWiy. 


COMMERCE  OP  THE  BLACK  SEA. 

From  the  earliest  periods  of  authentic  history, 
the  Black  Sea  was  the  centre  of  tlie  richest  com- 
merce 


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42K  KAHITXMC  GEOGtiApRV. 

r-s-r.*' ffwn:^  of  the  t^orld,  that  betweeA  India  an^ 
*~  £uFq9e,  which  successively  passed  from  th€f 
Phenicians  to  the  Egyptians,  Greeks,  Romans^ 
alid  Greeks  of  the  Lower  Empire,  and  at  last 
cc»ic€^trated,  as  we  have  alrea^dy  seen,  in  the 
Genoese*  The  conquests  of  the  Ottomans  shut« 
iing  the  Black  Sea  against  all  ibf  eign  nations,  its 
coramerce  was  immediately  reduced  to  the  rela** 
tions  with  Constantinople  alone ;  and  hence  the 
regions  which  it  washes  fell  into  the  same  state  of 
slavish  lethargy,  as  the  rest  of  the  countries  subject* 
ed  to  the  dominion  of  the  Crescent.  Durifig  three 
centuries,5from  the  capture  of  Kaffe  in  1476,  to  the 
treaty  of  Kainardgy  in  1774,  the  subjects  of  the 
Portei  alone  were  permitted  to  navigate  or  trade  in 
the  Black  Sea,  and  its  limited  commerce  was 
almost  entirely  in  the  hands  of  the  Greeks  and 
Armenians. 

The  advantages  of  a  free  communication  be- 
tween the  Russian  dominions,  bordering  on  the 
Black  Sea  and  the  Mediterranean,  could  not 
escape  the  penetrating  mind  of  Peter  the  Great } 
but  the  first  object  being  to  get  a  footing  on  the 
coasts  of  the  former,  he  turned  his  arms  toward! 
this  side  in  1699,  and  Azoph  with  a  territory 
round  it,  was  the  fruit  of  his  successes.  The  un* 
fortunate  battle  of  Pruth,  in  I7II,  however 
obliged  Russia  to  relinquish  this  conquest,  and  for 
more  than  half  a  century,  the  Russian  arms  being 
employed  on  the  shores  of  the  Baltic,  the  views 
of  its  monarch  on  tliose  of  the  Black  Sea  laid 
dormant. 

At 


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THE  BLACK  SEA.  4SS 

At  length  the  successful  termination  of  the  war,  ^  co^^^ 
by  the  treaty  of  Kainardgy,  put  Russia  in  posses- 
sion of  Azoph  and  its  territory,  together  with 
Taganrog,  the  fortresses  of  Kertch6  and  Jenikale 
in  the  Crimea,  and  that  of  Kinbum  on  the 
Dnieper,  at  the  same  time  assuring  to  the  Rw- 
sian  commercisd  flag  the  free  navigation  of  ti^ 
Black  Sea  and  its  entrances,  by  vessels  not  ex* 
ceeding  42S  tons  burthen. 

Catharine  II.  having  got  entire  possession  ol 
the  Crimea,  and  extended  the  Russian  dominion 
to  the  Dnieper,  in  1784  declared  Kherson,  S^vas" 
t^pol,  and  Kaf£i  free  ports.  Hiis  encouragement 
had  not,  however,  time  to  produce  any  great  effect, 
when  in  1787>  a  fresh  war  broke  out  between 
Russia  and  Turkey,  which  was  terminated  by  the 
peace  of  Jassy,  by  which  Russia  acquired  the 
territory  between  the  Bog  and  the  Dniester,^''^  and 
Kodja  bay,  whose  name  was  changed  to  Odessia 
in  1796,  being  fixed  oti  as  the  place  most  eligibly 
situated  to  become  the  entrepot  of  the  Russian 
commerce,  instead  of  Kherson :  the  privileges  of 
the  latter  were  accordingly  transferred  to  it. 

The  court  of  Vienna  also  claiming  the  privilege 
of  navigating  the  Black  Sea,  the  Forte  accorded 
it  in  1784.  Until  the  war  of  the  French  revolu- 
tion,  a  considerable  trade  was  carried  on  by  the 
French  under  the  Imperial  and  Russian  flags ;  but 
this  infant  commerce  was  arrested  in  its  progress 
by  this  event,  the  English  cruisers  covering  the 
Mediterranean,  and  sizing  the  vessels  trading 
from. France  under  neutral  colours.     At  the  peace 

VOL.  IK  S  F  of 


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434 


MARITIME  OEOOaAPHY. 


cammetf.  of  Aouens^  thie  navigation  of  the  Black  Sea.  was 
€q>ened  to  the  French,  Prussian*  Spanish,  Neapo- 
litan, Dutch,  Ragusao,  and  En^ish  merchant 
flags ;  and  all  these  nations  were  allowed  to  have 
resident  consuls  in  the  Turkish  ports  of  this  sea. 
Tliese  privileges  gave  a  great  momentary  ext^i- 
sion  to  its  commerce;  and  in  1803,  &15  vessels 
iBntered  the  Russian  ports  from  the  Mediterranean, 
few,  however,  of  whom  imported  any  m^cban- 
dize,  the  greater  number  being  in  ballast;  and 
the  return  cargoes  were  ahnost  entirely  com,^of 
which  there  was,  in  diat  year,  a  great  scarcity  in 
the  countries  of  the  Mediterranean.  Of  these^815 
vessels,. 


Flags. 

421  Aostrians^ 
329  Rossians, 
18  Ragusans^ 
16  Seven  blander^ 
^5  French, 
7  English, 
6  Hydriots, 
3  Spaniards, 

815 


Loaded  at 

552  Odessa, 
210  Taganrog, 
23Kaffa, 
19  Kosloff, 
7  Sevasjtopol, 
4  Kherson, 

615 


Destwatiott, 

186  Trieste, 
144  Messina, 
laS  Cephalonla, 
72  Genoa, 
57  Leghorn, 
26  Corfu^ 
24  Barcelona, 
19  MarseiBct, 
10  Naples,     : 
8  Malta,    • 
7  Tdiesn)^, 
4  Zante, ' 
155  Sailed  without 
deolaring  their 
destination,  on 
account  of  the 
war. 

815 

Russia 


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TBj&  RJLACK  SEA.  4S6 

Russia  has  some  little. .  coasting  trade,  and 
somjB  fisherifjs  in  the  Black  Sea  In  1 802,  thirty^ix 
vessels  a&d  9i66  small  coraft  were  employed  in  the 
former. 

There  is  also  a  considerable  trade  between  the 
Russian  ports  and  Constantinople  and  Smyrna, 
carried  on  entirely  by  Greek  vessels  under  Russian 
colours. 

In  recivat  years  the  exports  fr<5m  the  Russian^ 
ports  of  the  Black  Sea  have  amounted  to  seven 
miUions  of  rubles,  ai^d  me  imports  to  five  inil- 
lions/*  I     /  . 

The  objects  of  commerce  afforded  by  tlw  coun- 
tri^of  the  Biapk  Sea  are  as  follow : — 

I*rom  Roumelia  and  Bulgaria  by  the  ports   of 
Varna  and  Burgos, 


Wheat, 

Tallbw, 

Wax, 

Rice, 

Iron, 

Iron, 

Tobacco, 

Hare  skins. 

Yellow  grains 

Hides, 

Hpney, 

for  dying. 

From  Mqldavia  amd  Wallachia  by  Rudjuk  and 
Galatz,  onithe  Danube,,  the  same  objects  as  above, 
^tidf  .moreover,  wool,  butter,  hemp,  masts,  ship 
timber  and  pitch. 

Jgroip  Besan^bia,  by  Ovidopd,  the  same  objects 
as  from  the  Russian  government  of  Kherson,  by 
the  por^^^.  Odessa,  Akerman,  and  Kherson, 
which  »ii 

2p2  Com, 

•  See  ToLi.  page  410.      ^ 


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436 


HARITIME  GEOGRAPHY. 


Corn,  Tallow,  '  Hemp, 

Oak  timber.       Tar,  Sail  clothe 

Ox  and  horse      Chagrin,  Wool, 

hides,  I  Wax  &  honey. 

From  the  Crimea,  by  the  ports  of  Sevastopd^ 
Kosloffand  Ka£&. 


Morocco  lea* 

ther. 
Sheep  skins, 
Sak, 
Salted  and 

dried  fish. 


Potash, 

Felt, 

Caviar, 

Wine, 

Silk, 

Saltpetre. 


Com, 
Wool, 
Wax, 
Honey, 
Dried  and  salt- 
ed hides. 
Deer  skins. 

In  1802  the  quantities  of  some  of  these  objects 
were. 

Wheat 150  cargoes. 

Wpol  ...;...•...  118,000  quintals- 

Wax 7,000  oques. 

Hides 25,000  pieces* 

Morocco  ........   10,000  touras* 

Wine 10,000  oques. 

Raw  silk ,  150  oques» 

Salt  petre 5,000  oques. 

From  the  countries  of  the  sea  of  Azoph,  by  the 
port  of  Taganrog  and  Mariapol,  chiefly  iron,  of 
:Which  Constantinople  and  Smyrna  take  eadi^ 
^,000  quintals }  the  other  objects  are 


Dried  fish. 

Caviar, 

Butter, 

Hides, 

TaUow, 


Wheat, 
Timber, 
Fur^  *•: 
Sail  cloth. 
Cordage, 


Hemp, 
Linens, 
Wax, 
Wool. 


About 


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THE  BLACK  SBA. 


*«7 


Linens, 
Linen  thread. 
Wax  &  honey, 


Hemp, 
Copper, 
Ship  timber. 


:  OxandBufe. 
loe  hides. 
Dried  fruits, 
A  little  silk, 

JbVom  the  countries  of  the  Guriens  and  Laziens, 
by  the  ports  of  Kiresount,  Trebisond,  and  Ris^ 
nearly  the  same  objects  as  in  the  last  paragraph, 
with  the  exception  of  ship  timber. 

From  Mingrelia  and  the  coast  of  the  Abasses, 
by  the  ports  of  Anarghica,  Isgaour,  Gbelindik, 
Sudjuk,  and  Anafia, 


Slaves  of  both 

Wool, 

Butter, 

sexes. 

Silk, 

Hides, 

Timber, 

Furs. 

Wax  &  honey. 

Box  wood. 

The  trade  to  these  coasts  is,  however,  very  in- 
significant,  and  entirely  in  the  hapds  of  a  few 
jGrreeks  of  Constantinople. 


Commnee. . 


About  100  Greek  vessels,  under  Russian  colours,    «!.-«. 
arrive  at  Taganrog  every  year. 

From  Circassia,  by  the  port  of  Fanagoria,'  all 
the  above  ol^ects,  except  iron. 

From  j^Mitolia,  by  the  ports  of  Erekli,  Amasrah, 
Ineboli,  Sinope,  and  Uniah, 


«f3 


THE 


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4SS  MARITIME  ^EOGRAPHr. 


THE  WEST  COAST  OF  AFRICA. 

jNritkHM.        The  West  Coast  of  Africa  comprehends  the  fol- 
lowing  divisions  and  subdivisions. 

1.  The  coast  of  the  empire  of  Morocco,  from  the 
Strait  of  Gibraltar  to  Cape  Agulon. 

2.  The  coast  of  the  desert  of  Sahara,  from  Cape 
Agulon  to  the  mountains  north  of  the  Sen^^aL 

3.  Senegambia,  or  the  country  of  the  Sen^al 
and  Gambia,  from  the  above  mountains  to  the 
Gambia. 

4.  Guinea,*  the  limits  and  subdivisions  of  which 
are  still  uncertain,  each  geographer  and  traveller 
adopting,  arbitrarily,  those  which  strike  him  as  most 
proper;  thus  some  extend  the  denomination  of 
Guinea  to  all  the  country  between  the  Gambia 
and  Benguela,  dividing  it  into  Upper  and  L&wer; 

'  while  others  confine  it  to  the  coast  between  the 
Mesurado  and  Cross  River.  Among  this  variety 
of  opinion,  we  shall  take  a  middle  course,  as  that 
indicated  by  similarity  of  climate  and  seasons,  and 
consider  Guinea  as  comprized  between  the  Gambia 
and  Cape  Lopez  Gonsalvez. 

English 

*  The  name  of  Guinea  appears  to  be  more  ancient  than  the  discoreries 
of  the  Portuguese,  being  found  in  MS.  charts  of  the  fourteenth  centiuy ; 
according  to  Leon  ^fricanui,  this  country  is  called  by  the  Africans  Gemri^ 
and  iy  the  Arabians  Oheneoa, 


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TUB  WS8T  CIU0T  OT  AFRICA.  4^9 

'English  navigators  usnaUy  give  the  nattie  of   ^^^m;!:^ 
Windward  Coast  to  the  ^ace  between  the  Rio 
Grande  and  Ca{>e  Paknas,  because  the  urinds  are 
generally  from  the  north,  and  consequently  it  lays 
to  windward  relative  to  the  Gulf  of  Guinea. 

The  space  from  the  Mesurado  to  Cape  Palmas 
19  named  the  Grain  Coasts  horn  a  species  of  pepper 
<mUed  by  the  natives  mamgatta,  and  by  Europeans 
the  grain  of  Paradise. 

The  Ivory  or  Tooth  Coast  extaids  from  Cape 
Palmas  to  the  river  Frisco  or  Lagos,  and  derives 
its  name  from  the  quantity  of  elephants'  teeth  pro- 
cured on  it,  these  animals  it  is  thought  being  par- 
ticularly attracted  to  this  part  of  the  coast  by  its 
abundance  of  sugar  canes,  of  which  they  are  ex- 
tremely fond.  This  extent  of  coast  is  free  from 
danger,  and  may  be  sailed  along  within  a  league. 

The  Quaqua  Coast,  from  the  river  Frisco  to 
Assinee.  This  extent  is  more  usually  included  in 
the  Ivory  Coast. 

The  Gold  Coast,  according  to  diflferent  writers, 
commences  at  Assinee,  at  Cape  ApoUonia,  and 
at  Cape  Three  Points,  and  generally  is  terminated 
at  the  river  Volka.  It  has  its  name  from  the 
quantity  of  gokUdust  brought  by  the  negroes  for 
^e,  and  which  they  collect  in  the  sands  of  the 
brooks  and  torrents* 

The  Slave  Coast  extends  from  the  Vdta  to  Cross 
River.  It  is  sometimes  subdivided  into  Dahomey^ 
or  Whidahy  ftom  the  Volta  to  Porto  Nova ;  Benin 
from  the  latter  river  to  that  of  Formosa,  and 
Ouary  to  Cross  Biver. 

Sf4  The 


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440  MAEITIHS  aEOOEAFHt« 

Tkit  coast  from  Crois  Riv^  to  Cape  Lopez  has 
no  general  apellation^  but  is  marked  by  the  names 
of  its  n^o  tribes,  Bu^ra  and  CaUxmga^  and 
Kalabar  and  Gabmiy  from  the  nvers  of  these 
names. 

From  Cape  Lq»ez  to  Lo^mgo  the  coast  is  also 
without  any  other  name  than  that  of  its  negro^ 
the  Gobbit  to  whom  succeed  the  coasts  of  Loango^ 
to  the  5^  of  latitude  ;  Congo^  to  the  River  Danda; 
Angola^  to  the  Coanza  ^  and  Bengziela^  to  the 
Gubororo. 

The  coast  from  Benguela  to  the  territory  of  the 
Cape  of  Grood  Hope,  is  sometimes  included  un- 
der the  general  name  of  CaflBraria,  ^  the  Country 
of  the  Kafiers. 
^-  The  grand  phy«cal  feature  of  Africa  is  the 
small  number  of  its  navigable  rivers,  or  ports  fit 
for  the  reception  of  fleets.  On  the  north  or 
coast  of  the  Mediterranean,  as  we  have  already 
seen,  the  Nile  alone  is  of  any  consideration,  and 
the  whole  number  of  ports  fit  for  even  vessels  of 
moderate  size  does  not  exceed  two  or  three.  On 
the  west  coast,  washed  by  the  Atlantic  from  the 
Strait  of  Gibraltar  to  the  Senegal,  there  is  no 
river  of  any  consequence,  and  not  a  single  port. 
The  coast  of  Guinea  has,  it  is  true,  a  great  num- 
ber of  rivers,  but  most  of  them  are  barred  and 
inaccessible  to  ships,  and  the  ports  formed  by  the 
islands  that  line  it,  are  few  and  inconvenient. 
Beyond  this  region,  the  great  extent  to  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope  has  bat  two  or  three  rivers,  and 
an  equal  number  of  ports.    On  the  east  coast  the 

:  :  same 


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THE  W£BT  COAST  Of  A9&ICA.  441 

Mme  want  of  rivers  and  ports  occurs  to  the  en- 
trance of  the  Mosambique  channel,  and  again  from 
the  Equator  to  the  Strait  of  Babel-mandeb.  All 
the  rivers  of  Africa,  within  the  tropics,  are  sub- 
ject to  periodical  inundations,  caused  by  the 
heavy  lams,  ^en  the  sun  is  vertical  in  the  equap 
torial  regions. 

The  banks  of  most  of  the  rivers  of  Guinea  are 
either  marshy  and  covered  with  impenetrable 
mangrove,^^  or  close  forests,  and  in  few  instances 
afford  any  dry  elevated  grounds ;  there  are,  how- 
ever, spots  on  the  banks  of  the  Sierra  Leone, 
which  offer  a  picturesque  and  varied  mountainous 
scenery.  The  whole  west  coast  of  Africa  is  beaten 
by  a  violent  suri^  and  ii^ested  by  sharks,^'*^  while 
the  rivers  abound  in  equally  voracious  alligators, 
and  the  fresh  water  swamps  witii  Ihe  faippopo- 
tiunus. 

The  coast  of  the  Empire  of  Morocco  to  about 
Cape  Nun,  is  bounded  by  lo%  mountains  of  the 
chain  of  Atlas,  whose  i^unmits  towards  the  north 
are  covered  with  snow  till  the  month  of  May* 
Beyond  this  region  commences  the  barren  coast 
of  the  Desert,  which  to  the  confines  of  Senegam- 
bia  presents  a  continuity  of  arid  sand-hills,  whose 
only  vegetation  is  a  few  bushes  or  stunted  trees; 
this  low  coast  terminates  to  the  north  of  Cape 
Yerd,  where  commences  the  undulating  and 
wooded  coast  of  Senegambia,  which  extends  to 
the  Gambia. 

The  climate  of  the  West  Coast  of  Africa,  from 

the 


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C<HUtf, 


4M  BMJUVIMS  QEO<»aUPHT«  . 

the  liititude  q£  W^  north  to  the  Eq^tor^  is  m  ^e- 
nerltl  extremely  destructive  to  Eurdpetal^  though 
some  spots. moT^  salubrious  thail  othera  are  foiHKL 
The    rainy  season  cofrimences    thrdt^bout    this 
titct  in  May,  lasts  till  Octobo*,    and  is  at  its 
hefi^t  in  Jiine  and  July,    with  idknost  eoofitailt 
thunder  and  lightning.    The  exhalations  from  die 
manges,  formed  by  the  overflowing  df  the  rif^ers, 
iUmrthe  rank  vegetation  on  their  baiik^  and  from 
tfaeveg^able  andammal  coimptidn  which  covos  the 
^oond,  produce  mortal  d}^nteries^  ntid  infliunma- 
toryftver&  During  the  dry  season  from  November 
to   May,    the  ctimhte  is  less  unhealthy,  the  at- 
mosphere >beiii^  then  clear,    and  th6  heat  tem- 
peted  by  sea  In'oefees.    In  Stoeg^taibia  the  greatest 
lieat  is  in  Jtily^  when  the,  thdrmonieter  rrises  in 
the  opin  idrio  120^  or  eved  ISO^,  sbid  ia  the 
night  never  falls  below  100.      The  winds  dnring 
the  wet  season  On  this  coa^  blow  coHstazitly  from 
the  north  with  stredg  southerly  currents^  by  meads 
of  which  Vessels  run  from  the  Senegal  to  Gforee 
in.twehty-ffour  houria,  Mrhile  it  requires  ten  or  fifteen 
days  to  beat  b&ck.    During  the  dry  seslson  the 
Ihermoitteter  valiesiin  the  day  between  88^  and 
68^,  and  during  tihe  night,  when  there  are  heavy 
dews,^^>  fells  to  60^, 

The  coast  between  the  Gambia  and  Cape  Veiga, 
ft  distance  of  S50  miles,  is  formed  by  a  chain  of 
low  lind  faiile  frauds  separated  ifrom  the  main, 
and  from  each  other,  by  narrow  but  deep  sttraits. 
Beyond  CajteYetga  these  low  islands  are  succeed- 
ed 


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THE  ifft^  CdAST  &P  AfKfCA*  44^ 

'edby  an  elevated  coast,  which  increased  ih  he^ht 
till  south  of  Sierra  Leotae  it  presents  alpine  p^« 
apparently  (jf  volcanic  origin.  On  this  ext^t  6f 
coast  the  rains  commence  the  dani^  time  i»  to  the 
iiortli,  but  are  not  so  int^sfe  tibt  flic  elirtfafce  sd 
insadabrious :  the  extremes  of  the  therftottfeter 
throughout  the  year  are  63  ahA  98,  frorfi  Ulay  to 
Auffiiit.  N.W.  wiiSds  are  most  prevalent,  and 
S.W.  iti  Septfember  and  October.  In  November^ 
December,  and  January,  N,E.  wirids  prevail,  Wiffi 
fo^,  and  the  thermometer  descends  the  lowest 
In  February,  March,  ahd  April,  feiid  tmd  fed 
breezfe  are  pretty  regular,  the  latter  from  tBfe 
S.^.  in  thfe  i^^mg.^^  Oh  this  fcoast  bet^feefi 
Ju#e  SIM  Ocfdber  iomddoes  are  frequent,  afid 
chiefly  fcoffle  froni  between  tiye  E-  and  S.E- ;  ihe;f 
Blow  with  aH  the  violence  of  a  hurticane,  btft 
sdidom  longer  than  ah  hour  or  t^,  anti  theit  ai^ 
proach  is  denoted  by  black  heavy  clouds,  risiti^ 
in  the  S.E.  an  hdiir  before  their  arrival.*    * 

Between  Siferra  Lebtie  arid  Cstiie  Pihhas  the 
prevailing  winds  are  from  N.W.  and  N.N.W.,  BW 
after  passing  this  cape  they  bio*  throughotit  fflg 
gulf  of  Guinea  from^  S.W.  to  S.S. W.  The  general 
currfent  sets  to  the  S.E.  to  Cape  Palmas,  roiftid 
which  it  curves  to  the  E.N.E.  into  the  gulf.t 

The 

•  Beaver"  9  African  Memo:  other  wiitei^  say  these  storms  arc  announced 
by  a  small  uihiU  cloud,  but  this  Captain  Beaver  positively  contradicts  from 
the  experience  of  seventy  of  them ;  of  which  sixty-three  came  from  be- 
tween E.  and  S^.,  twoat  E.N.E.,  three  at  N.E.  and  two  at  N.W.  The 
word  tornado  is  Portuguese  and  signifies  a  whirlwind. 

t  On  the  equator  in  the  gulf  of  Guinea,  the  current  sets  at  times  strong 
to  the  W99tf  chiefly  in  JtmCf  Juip  and  Aufutt,  and  particularly  at  the  new 

and 


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Cmtti, 


4M  .     MABITIME  GBOGRAJmT# 

The  Gram^  Ivory ^  and  Gold  Coasts  are  low  and 
thickly  wooded ;  but  inland,  at  a  short  distance^ 
the  country  is  {d^easantly  diversified  with  hills  and 
plains  extremdy  fertile,  and  with  abundance  of 
good  water,  an  article  that  is  both  scarce  and  bad 
near  the  shore.  The  seasons  are  similar  to  those 
already  noticed,  but  the  heat  is  greater  on  the 
Gold  Coast  than  even  in  Senegambia,  the  thermo* 
meter  rising  in  the  open  air  to  134.  On  the  whole 
coait  of  Guinea,  from  the  Gambia  to  Cape  Lopez, 
a  singular  wind,  called  the  harmattan^  blows  from 
the  interior  of  Africa,  occasionally  in  December, 
January,  and  February.  It  has  no  regular  period 
€i  duration,  sometimes  continuing  only  a,  few 
hours,  at  others  for  several  days ;  it  is  cold  and 
always  attended  with  a  dense  dry  fog,  throu^ 
which  the  sun  at  noon  appears  of  a  pale  red.  The 
extreme  dryness  of  this  wind  withers  the  leaves  of 
vegetables.  At  some  seasons  it  is  considered  ma* 
lignant,  probably  after  wet  weather,  when  it  is 
loaded  with  marsh  miasma ;  at  others  it  arrests  the 
progress  of  epidemic  diseases.  From  the  whitish 
powder  which  seems  to  compose  the  fog,  and 
which  subsides  on  the  earth,  it  has  been  supposed 
that  this  wind  blows  from  some  volcano  in  the  un- 
explored interior  of  Africa.  On  the  coast  of 
Sierra  Leone  it  blows  from  the  E.S.E.,  on  the  Gold 
Coast  from  N.E.  and  towards  Cape  Lopez  from 
N.N.E. 

The 

and  full  mtK>i\^lIorthnrgh*s  Intl.  Direct,  We  are  indined  to  fittribute  thfa 
westerly  cunent  to  the  great  q\iaiitity  of  ft^h  water,  emptied  Into  the 
eastern  port  of  the  gulf  during  these  rainy  months. 


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THX  W£ST  COAST  OF  AFRICA.  4M 

The  Shoe  ComU  between  the  rivers  Volta  and 
Formosa,  is  low  and  in  general  thinly  wooded;  it 
is  lined  by  a  chain  of  Is^oons,  separated  from  the 
sea  by  a  narrow  border  of  land,  called  by  the 
French  La  Prie^  the  meadow,  and  which  are 
formed  by  the  overflowing  of  the  rivers.  From 
the  Formosa  to  the  Camerons  the  coast  id  inter- 
sected by  the  mouths  of  numerous  rivers,  by 
some  supposed  to  be  branches  of  the  Nigef^^ 
which  still  conceals  its  embouchure  from  the  re- 
searches of  geographers*  These  rivers  carry  out 
great  quantities  of  mud,  which  elevate  the  bottom 
of  the  sea,  and  it  seems  probable  that  the  project- 
ing land  of  Cape  Formosa,  which  separates  the 
gulf  of  Benin  and  Biaffi^  is  entirely  formed  of 
alluvion.  A  considerable  number  of  elephants 
frequent  this  part  of  the  coast ;  but  their  tu^  are 
said  to  be  of  an  inferior  ivory.  -The  fresl^  water 
swamps  are  also  frequented  by  the  hipp(q»otam]& 
Between  the  rivers  Camerons  and  S.  Benito,  the 
coast  is  mountainous,  and  in  the  tract  called  the 
high  land  of  Ambozes  some  of  the  peaks  are 
thought  to  equal  that  of  Tenerifie  in  elevation. 

After  crossing  the  equator  the  wet  season  is  from 
September  to  November,  the  ritf ns  prevailing  at  each 
side  of  the  equator  in  the  respective  summer  sol- 
atice ;  they  are  also  retarded  in  going  to  the  south, 
commencing  at  Loango  in  December  and  lasting 
till  March.  After  passing  Lokmgo  there  is  strict- 
ly speaking  tio  wet  season.  On  the  coasts  of  Congo, 
Angola,  and  Benguela,  gentle  rains  fall  durii^ 
March,  April,  and  May,  when  a  dry  season  suc- 

ceed% 


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Mo^iftb^  t}»e  he^jt  .fajt^usg  modf&c^d  bj  aea  bree^ces. 
il1,Qs*^tr,  ,N»y Wil>wi  and  I>^<f^mber,  raJiDs  agajn 
1^},  (U}di  9Ke  ,sifpceedi^  jby  a  second  dry  8ea8<^ 
Ml^  h9fyf9^%^  Tt^i99e  c$]#^ts  aie  jEfOt  9ut(}ect  to  tOF- 
OwJaI^s,  ,i|^  ^i^i^d^oQ^  vjot^d  by  storms^  ao  4b«t 
s))|ps  9P<)1^  §1^  ^  «(^a«pn9  on  the  open  coast, 
^f^thput  rvnv4ffg^y  ^^^.  The  country  pear  tbe 
se^  is  intersected  by  Jj^oon^  and  rivers  full  of  fish, 
aqd  fy^k  ,wa^er  is;ixk  ^^j^^afice.  The  finest  friuitB- 
jnf,t^^J;ippi(Ca^jb$fiein  and  geiner^y 

gi;^  ^tbout  4;f4tiyation;  bju^  the  only  domestic 
iMU^ids  reared  fc^  ^ood  we  bqgs  and  goats,  tbep^e 
Im^  but  f^w.hoipQted  cfi,ttle,  and  ^o  4^eep/^> 

.  13*6  Utjtle  ^enfral  knowledge  we  have  of  the 
fifmt'  ^^9^  jB^g^ela  to  ^the  territory  of  fiie  Oqpe 
9f  Qood  JHpp^j  ynll  be  found  incoijiuqn^^ed  in  the 
ff  W.  ^Qti^e^  W^  are.  able  to  give  of  pac^cular  poii^ 


Descriptive  Sketch  of  the  Nations  inhabiting  the 
U^est  Coast  of  Africa* 

^^£hS^  Aflaer.  passing  thfe;  JUipits  of  Morocco,  the  first 
natioaniet  with  is  the  M9ors  qf  ike  De^tj  who 
inhidbdt  the  coast  froW.Gfipe  Agi^on  to  th^  ^.^e- 
gal,  and  form  three  t|ibe$.  Though,  they  ackj^Wr 
ledge  the  £inperor  of  Morocco  as  their  soyei^igl^ 
they  are  in  every  i:€^pect  independent  of  his  go- 
vernment or  power*  They  lea4  .^^  erratic  life, 
their  habitations  being  .conical  ten^  of  a  cloth 

manufactured 


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THfirSFEBT^OQifiTIIF.iniCA.  iiT 

nsmi&dawed  of  otaadtsihmx,  dbicb  they  mm%  ^^%;ft!^ 
aixMit  m  warch  of  ^oatiure  for.  ihtix  csit^^  Thsk 
ifriiole  furniture  eonsists  a£tmo  large  JMdliecdiidb^ 
a  woodefii  hoxy  a&w  go^  slcixis  to  jhold  tbeir  idlk 
suidwater^  sinoeiiU  ]«H>p^o|»la|tters,  two.  flat  atootti 
&rgnh(iuigi3arl^,  some  joizkr  mats  serving  &r 
bedg;  ancla  smaH  coffer  kettle. 

'ThechmBcter  of  the  Moors  i^  by  noMoeans  eB9 
gaging;  tbefiacre  cnid,  deceitful,  and  igDocaiit» 
and  at'tbe  smofi  tkne  ao  proud  that  tbey  think  the 
sun .  rises'  for  them  aione.  ^^  Contemplate  that 
eri>/'  said  ^  Moor  to  a  Christian  slave,  '*  it  is  un* 
Jcjiown  4n ^hy  country;  jo^  have  no  trees,  nor 
sheep,  ftor  \GBmels,  i^  samdy  nor  goats,  nor  are 
your  women:  fat  tike  <uirs.^'  ^  Itbeir  religion  is  that 
0£  Mahomet  Mixed  wiih  paganism,  and  their  Ian. 
gbage  a  corrapted  Arai^ic* 

'39iese  barbarians  <x>tisider  shipwrecked  vessela 
as  p^sentft  firbf9^  heaven,  i«vidiiBg  themsehsc^s  by 
tbeit  i^htAider^  md  reducing  their  crews  to  the 
most  abject  state  of  slavery,  fi-om  which  there  is 
no  other  hopes.<^f  escaping  than  by  a  powerful' re- 
olamation^om  liie  Emperor  of  jBdorocco,  who  is 
e^en  ob%ed  to  pay  a  great  ransom  for  their  deli^ 
wrance,  ^hichiis  usuaHytepaid  by  the  European 
consul  of  the  nation  to  which  the  prisoneia  be« 
long. 

'Hie  most  labodous  offices  &n  on  >the  women : 
Ib^ey  &bricate/  the  cloth  for  the  tents,  make  the 
btidles  and  saddles,  dress  the  victuals,  fetch  wa- 
ter, and  attend  the  horses  and  cattle,  who  share  the 
tent  of  theiic  otvner.    .The  women  also  strike  and 

erect 


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443  MAHmilE  OlOeEAPBT. 

''TSJi.^  ^^'^^^  ^b^  ^l^^ts,  load  and  ludoad  the  cmxd^  hold 
tfce  stirrup  for  their  husbands,  with  whom  thejr 
are  not  allowed  to  eat,  but  must  ocHitent  theni« 
selves  with  their  livings*  The  wife  is  always 
pim^hased,  and  the  price  is  paid  in  advance.  T^ 
husteuid  may  divorce  her  when  he  pleases,  but  he 
cannot  reclaim  the  purchase  money.  Female  adul- 
tery is  uncommon,  and  when  it  occurs,  tiie  hus- 
band usually  contents  himself  with  turning  off  his 
guilty  partner,  while  her  relations,  more  vindic- 
tive, often  wash  o\it  the  disgrace  in  her  blood. 

Female  beauty,  according  to  the  Mocmts,  con- 
sists in  extreme  corpulence,  and  in  Icmg  te^i, 
projecting  out  of  the  mouth ;  hence  to  acquire  an 
enormous  embonpoini  is  as  much  the  study  of  the 
Moorish  women  as  to  avoid  it  is  that  of  our  norths 
em  females:  for  this  purpose  the. Moorish  giib 
are  crammed  with  cuscus  and  camel's  milk,  vAdA 
are  particularly  &ttening.  The  girls  receive  no 
kind  of  education,  while  the  boys  are  taught  to 
read  and  write  the  Arabic. 

The  tent  intended  to  receive  a  new  married 
couple  is  distingui^ed  by  a  white  flag,  and  the 
bridegroom  wears  a  white  band  on  his  forehead* 
The  bride  and  her  young  female  frirads  perform 
indecent  dances  throughout  the  day,  to  the  sound 
of  a  drum ;  the  morning  after  the  wedding  the 
bride  is  washed  from  head  to  foot  by  her  rela- 
tions, and  entirely  new  doatfaed,  when  she  f$f» 
her  visits  through  the  camp,  and  in  the  evenki^ 
returns  to  her  husband's  tent. 
When  a  son  is  born  the  mother  testifies  ha:  joy 

b7 


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THE  WMT  COAST  OF  AFRICA.  449 

by.bladdng  her  face  for  forty  days,  while  on  the  ^•gj^/** 
birth  of  a  girl  she  only  blackens  one  half  of  her 
&ce  for  twenty  da3rs. 

The  Moors  are  little  acquainted  with  the  useful 
arts,  and  with  the  exception  of  knives  and  kettles, 
which  they  make  out  of  the  iron  and  Copper  they 
procure  from  Europeans,  they  are  dependent  on 
strangers  for  every  article  of  cloathing  and  do- 
mestic utensils.  Being  essentially  pastoral,  their 
agriculture  is  very  imperfect,  and  consists  in 
simply  scattering  the  seed  barley,  wheat,  or 
millet,  on  the  spots  moistened  by  the  rains,  and 
cova*ing  it  with  a  light  plough,  worked  by  a  sin- 
^e  cmmel ;  the  crop,  if  it  succeeds,  (which  is  very 
jHrecarious,)  is  divided  among  the  horde.  The 
common  food  is-  milk,  honey,  and  the  flesh  of 
wild  animals,  for  tHey  kill  no  domestic  ones,  ex- 
c^tia  times  of  great  scarcity,  or  on  solemn  oc- 
casions. 

The  Moors  are  constantly  at  war,  both  with 
each  other  and  with  the  Negroes.  In  their  battles 
every  individual  singles  out  an  antagonist,  whom 
he  atMcks  with  spear,  sabre,  or  dagger,  for  they 
have  but  few  musqaets,  and  are  very  inexpert  in 
their  U9e.  The  Negroes  made  prisoners  are  kept 
as^ves,  while  the  Moors,  after  being  stripped, 
are  allowed  to  escape.  The  only  virtue  they  seem 
to  possess  is  hospitaiity  towards  each  other ;  a 
Moorish  stranger  is  fed  and  assisted,  but  never 
admitted  into  the  tent.  If  he  is  a  person  of  con- 
sequence, an  ox,  goat,  or  sheep  is  killed  to  regale 

VOL.  u.  e  a  him. 


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450  MAEITUfE  OBOGRAPVT. 

^•Xi^.'*'  Wra,  and  the  raw  &t  is  first  served  up  by  ibe  Iwv 
men,  who,  when  tbe  other  parts  are  dres^ed»  {daoe 
the  stranger's  share  on  some  fresh  strawy  and  tfae 
husband,  causing  it  to  be  home  by  a  dave,  pro- 
ceeds with  it  to  his  guest,  who  iimtos  Ua  host 
to  partake  of  it,  but  which  is  always  declined. 
This  hospitality  is,  however*  caore  ostesitattoiiSi 
or  arising  from  establiidied  cnstanit  than  4fae  im- 
pulse c^  generosity,  fi>r  at  vi^iatever  hour  ibe 
stranger  may  arrive,  or  however  hungry  lie  may 
be,  the  r^ast  is  never  served  up  till  night.  The 
next  morning  the  guest  departs,  without  takiag 
leave  or  thanking  his  host»  and  i^  he  xemaios  a 
second  day,  ^t  is  looked  on  asiaking  an  impsroper 
advantage  c^  ho^itality,  and  he  is  tacitly  warned 
to  depart  by  givkig  kim  a  muoh  smaller  ahapre  c^ 
victuals  the  second  day  thftn  the  first*  13he  last 
question  put  to  a  ^tr^ger  ^n,  lus  claimiogiiMirita* 
lity  is  after  his  health. 

The  dr^ss^tof  both  «es:es  is  4sdixiple.:  that  of  ihe 
men  consivts  of  ioose  trowsen,  aftd  ;a  fwce  ^ 
oottQp  d(Ah  thfown  jQver  :the  .diouUkas.l&e  a^acarf 
and  fa8te^ed  TOapd  the  wlwit  with  abek,  iiflRfaioh 
is  studc  a  dcigger,  and  wfakh  also  .keeps  ^imk 
himdkerchief.  On  die  head  tiiey  wear  %  ^vittte 
linen  turban,  and  on  the  feet  morocco  slijqpeca  ac 
half  boots.  The  women  wear  l«ng>trowaei:%  ahifta 
with  wid«  sleeves,  a  corset»  and  over  all  a  piece 
«f  blue  cotton^  which  reai^es  firom  the  mock  %td 
the  heels.  Their  head-dress  is  a  piiM^  of  iihiln 
cotton,  which  server  ds  4  veil  whffin  tb^^ «ito 

tbe 


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T^fWls^  ^j^sf  OF  jmaicA.  .451 

/the  SUB  pBly«  ipr  ^m^  tfib^  are  not  sufficieirtly  ^'X^/*' 
j^oup  fif  idieir  wotn^n  to  oblige  them  to  concesd 
fiv»r  i^iG^^     Timt  fe^  Wtd  le^  are  bare. 


To  4he  Moors  succeed  (he  Negroes^  ^  tace  to^  jvqrra<«. 
tally  different,  bot^  in  perfiional  appearance  and 
in  inpr$^  qualitiea.  Hiough  some  t^rratic  tribes  c^ 
Negroes  may  be  met  with  near  the  west  bank  of 
the  3^Qitg^»  this  river  i^  their  prop;^  limits  on  the 
TOWih,  and  ^ey  extend  to  about  @0^  south. 

This  nu;e  is  distinguL^d  £:on^  s^l  othfers»  not  so 
nuch  by  the  colpur  or  the  features,  ^  by  the  form 
^o^  4kifi)m^  of  the  ^u)l,  whidi  differs  from  those 
f^,^  <^er  T^ceaf  an4  partiadarly  from  £ufQpean& 

Tl^^fn^st  proBiinent  trait  in  the  mond  eharao 
^  gf  the  Negro  is  indc^epce,  which  is  doubtless 
the  4ipn$fifff^e3ace  of  tja^  cdimate  and  soil  of  the 
rfgion^^  Qccupiejs ;  t^  inftQpse  heat  of  tiie  for* 
ni^  ^d«Kes  the  &aq}e  and  rendters  great  exertion 
jppg^ble,  while  the  }»$t^  t^^kn^tig  eXi  die  /ne- 
pemi^i^  of  ]H^  fiAmP^  spontaneously,  renders 
llifiph  «iferti$M^  ^qoi^Qec^sfury.  As,  howeror,  the 
^ust^  ipf  tia^  Negwes  ditfer  considerably  in 
cii^te  imd  jSq3,  as  Isdl  jus  in  govenrnnent,  the 
pb^l^ad  and  woiid  character  of  the  tribes  is  fko^ 
g^f^iom)]^  #£fected  aiid  mMUcfed  by  these  varia- 
tipps,  apid  909ie  tribes  we  aocordb^fy  endowed 
irith  much  m(»e  eni^gy,  and  are  ntiore  industrious 
t)iw»,othat9. 

"J^  fiiat  great  ieature  in.the  state  of  Negro  so* 
4^1^  19  8la¥ery>  which  »e^mB  to  be  universally 

S  o  S  spread 


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45S  MARITIME  GE00RAFH7. 

v^tr^  Spread  over  the  regions  inhabited  by  4h£3  race,  and 
the  class  of  princes  alone  is  exempt  from  the  con- 
sequences  oi  this  general  principle,  those  of  this 
class  taken  in  war  enjoying  the  privilege  of  being 
put  to  death  by  the  captors,  or  of  putting  an  end  to 
' ,  themselves.  Most  of  the  Negro  tribes  inhabiting 
the  coast,  as  far  as  the  river  Mesurado,  have  em^ 
braced  the  Mahometan  religion,  but  many  of  them 
render  it  almost  undistinguishable  by  the  mixture 
of  their  aocidnt  superstitions*  They  all,  however, 
agree  in  three  points  of  the  Mahometan  doctrine, 
the  plundlity  of  wives,  the  necessity  of  circum- 
cision, and  a  veneration  for  tha  prophet.  The 
tribes  inhabiting  the  coast  from  the  Mesurado  are 
gross  idolators,  except  that  in  the  coimtrysouA 
of  Loango  some  traces  of  Mahometanism  are 
again  observed,  which  may  probably  have  been 
introduced  from  the  East  coast,  by  means  of  the 
commercial  communications  \^hich  herfetolK^fe  ex-^ 
isted,  and  which  probably  still  exist  by  caravans*  • 
Whatever  forcibly  strikes^  the  imagination  *«# 
the  negro,  id  immediately  coirt Verted  intoa iicatj^' 
and  becomes^  Imfetishej  or  idol*;  he  aSfttei  itod 
consists  a  tree,  a' rock,  ^  iish-bone,  a  hla^'  tt 
grass,  or  any  other  material  objedt  equally  iHs^ 
nificanU  Some  tribes  have  however  a  supreme  idol 
drawn  from  the  animal  creation,  to  whom  divine 
honours  are  paid,  and  who  is  nourished  in  rude 
temples  and  served  by  y<wng  priestesses.  *  In 
Whidah,  a  serpent  is  the  god  of  production,  com- 
merce,  and  agriculture.  In  Dahomey,  the  leopard 
has  &e  first  rank,  and  in  Benin  a  tizard^  while 

other 


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THl  WEST   COAST. OF  AFRICA.  .453 

.Other  tribes  loore  rational  give  their  divinity  a 
human  form,  or  woriship  the  all  bounteous  sim. 

The  Portuguese  missions,  it  appesu'S,  have  had 
.but  little  success  in  converting  the  negroes  to 
Christianity :  nor  is  tliis  to  be  wondered  at,  when 
it  is  remembered  that  the  missionaries  were  bigotted 
monks,  who  instead  of  endeavouring  to  gain  the 
confidence  of  the  negrpes  by  mildness,  and  lead- 
ing them  by  degrees  to  adopt  the  true  religion, 
disgusted  them  both  by  personal  ill  treatment  and 
by  attempting  to  force  on  their  belief  abstract 
dogmas  and  rules  of  morality,  the  first  of  which  it 
was  impossible  for  them  to  comprehend,  while  the 
second  were  totally  subversive  of  and  incompatible 
with  their  ancient  manners  and  habits. 

The  food  of  the  negroes  consists  chiefly  in  rice, 
Jndian  corn  or  millet,  boiled  to  a  paste  and  highly 
seasoned  with  red  pepper.  They  use  little  animal 
food,  and  are  by  no  means  delicate  in  the. choice 
of  it,  the  putrid  flesh  of  the  elephant,  crocodile, 
monkey,  and  dog,  not  being  rejected  by  their 
stomachs.  Those  of  the  coast  are  expert  fishermen 
and  draw  a  considerable  portion  of  their  food  from 
the  sea ;  but  here,  also,  they  prefer  the  species 
rejected  by  Europeans,  the  shark  being  their 
favourite  fish. 

The  drink  of  the  negro  is  either  the  sap  of  the 
palm  tree,  called  by  us  Pahn  wine,  or  water,  ex- 
cept when  he  can  procure  spirits,  the  taste  for 
which,  introduced  by  Europeans,  is  one  of  the 
greatest  obstacles  to  the  civilization  of  Africa. 
The  cloathing  of  the  negroes  is  only  sufficient  for 
2  G  3  decency. 


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45^  MABlTtHi  GSOdTEAPHT • 

w^jrm.  decency^  and  coftsi^  €itjti&  of  eofeton  clotA  dntMN 
factured  by  themselves  or  procured  fh>m  Euro- 
^  peanB.  Their  habitations  cost  them  little  ttore 
trouble  than  their  dresS,  bemg  conical  huts  corifL 
posed  of  the  trunks  and  branches  <tf  trees.  Their 
villages  are  straggling  assemblages  of  these  htits^ 
with  no  other  public  building  than  a  great  rfied, 
open  all  round,  where  are  held  the  public  ddUfbera. 
tions  knowiTl  by  the  corrupted  Portuguese  name  of 
Palaver.  The  furniture  of  their  huts  does  not 
extend  beyond  a  few  calabashes  and  wooden  ntexu 
sils :  their  chiefs  have,  however,  !k)me  objects  of 
European  manufacture,  and  as  mi^ks  of  their 
dignity  on  great  occasions,  dress  d  PBuropcerij 
and  have  a  silk  parasol  held  over  them  by  a  riarre. 

The  amusements  of  the  negroes  are  dancing  and 
gaming,  of  the  former  of  which  they  are  so  pas- 
sionately fond,  that  an  author,  in  describing  them, 
says,  **  that  after  sun-set  all  Africa  dances." 
Throughout  the  night  the  air  resounds  with  the 
monotonous  sounds  of  their  torn  toms^  mixed  with 
the  discordant  notes  of  a  shrill  ivory  horn,  and  the 
simple  ones  of  several  kinds  of  rude  guitars  and 
lyres ;  all  ages  and  both  sexes  partake  in  these 
nocturnal  concerts,  and  the  music  and  song  of  one 
village  answer  to  those  of  another. 

Th^  custom  of  making  incisions  in  the  skin 
prevails  amongst  all  the  negro  tribes,  who  have 
retained  their  primitive  manners ;  but  these  orna- 
mental cicitrices  vary,  both  vnth  respect  to  the  " 
parts  of  the  body  and  the  figures,  with  diffisrent 
tribes.     Circumcision  is  adopted  as  well  by  the 

idolatori 


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THE  WS8T  COAST  01*  AFEICA.  455 

idobton  ai»  the  M^mnetant^  and  by  some  tribes     i«^^'  • 
18  extended  to  the  females,  while  others  takepakis 
to  produce  by  art^  the  natural  distinctive  maik  of 
the  female  Hottentot. 

iThe  coast  between  the  Senegal  and  Gambia  is 
^Rvided  in  the  latest  maps  as  follows.  The  kingdom 
ei  Hotoal  extetkAs  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Sene- 
gal for  thirty  leagues :  the  king  is  named  Brae. 
From  the  mouth  of  the  Senegal  to  below  Cape 
Verd  is  the  kingdom  of  Cay  or j  of  which  the  chief 
is  named  Darnel  To  the  south  of  this  territory  is 
the  kingdom  of  Baal,  governed  by  Tin :  it  has 
twelve  leagues  of  coast.  Portudal  is  in  this  terri- 
tory, and  its  limit  is  Point  Serene  on  the  south. 
The  kingdom  o£  Sm^  or  Bursin,  succeeds,  and 
has  also  twelve  leagues  of  coast :  in  it  is  Joal. 
The  kingdom  of  Sakim,  or  Bursahmiy  extends 
from  the  limits  of  Sin  and  has  the  same  space  of 
coast }  from  it  to  the  north  bank  of  the  Gambia  is 
the  kingdom  of  Bar.  All  these  chiefs  govern 
despotiodly  in  the  utmost  latitude  of  the  term, 
the  property  and  the  persons  of  their  subjects 
being  at  their  disposal.  The  order  of  succession 
to  the  throne  in  the  kingdom  of  Cayor  is  in  the 
deceased  king's  brothers,  according  to  priority  of 
birth,  and  in  default  of  brothers  in  his  sons.  In 
the  kingdom  of  Hoval,  the  eldest  son  of  the  eldest 
sister  of  the  deceased  king  succeeds. 

In  the  territory  of  Cayor  and  on  the  coast,  half 
way  between  Cape  Verd  and  the  Senegal,  is  a 
negro  tribe,  named  Ceres  or  Serezes,  who  are  de- 
scribed as  living  in  a  complete  state  of  nature 

S  G  4  without 


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456  MJUtlTIMS  6EOOEAPHT. 

jttgf^.    without  government  or  laws,  and  it  is  said  even 
without  religion* 

The  coast,  from  the  Gambia  to  the  Cassaman^a, 
is  inhabited  by  Feloops,  a  tribe  of  idolators,  who 
are  described  as  melancholy  and  revengeful,  but 
also  honest  and  grateful.  The  succeeding  tribes  on 
the  coast  on  the  BagnonSy  on  the  banks  of  the  St. 
Domingo,  who  are  «aid  to  be  peaceful  cultivators; 
the  Papels  and  BdUmtes  occupy  the  coast  between 
the  St.  Domingo  and  Courbali,  and  are  painted  as 
ferocious  and  inhospitable.  The  Papels  worship 
trees,  ox  horns,  and  all  sorts  of  visible  objects. 
When  their  king  dies  a  new  one  is  elected  in  a 
singular  manner ;  the  corpse  of  the  deceased  mo- 
narch is  placed  on  a  bier,  encircled  by  the  chief 
nobles,  and  the  corpse  being  tossed  up  in  the  air, 
the  noble  on  whom  it  falls  in  its  descent  is  there- 
by duly  elected  king. 

The  nation  o£  Bickers  occxxpy  the  right,  bank 
of  the  Rio  Grande :  they  are  somewhat  civilized 
and  addicted  to  commerce.  Between  the  Bio 
Grande  and  Nunez  is  tlie  tribe  of  Naloes^  whose 
lands  are  well  cultivated  and  produce  indigo  and 
cotton,  but  with  whom  it  is  necessary  to  be 
guarded.  The  Bissagos  islands  are  inhabited  by 
different  tribes  of  idolaters,  generally  ferocious 
and  treacherous,  adorning  their  huts  with  the 
scalps  of  their  enemies;  and  in  the  island  of  Bissao, 
the  favorite  wives  of  the  king  are  sacrificed  on  his 
death  and  burnt  with  his  corpse. 

The  negroes  of  the  Grain  coast  are  said  to  be 
jealous  of  strangers,  and  are  little  known.     The 

Ivory 


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tHE  WEST   COAST  OF  AflUCA.  457 

Ivory,  coast  to  Cape  La  Hou  is  also  occupied  by  an  Netrm. 
uofnendly  and  warlike  tribe,  described  as  anthro- 
pophagi, whence  the  Portuguese  give  them  the 
name  of  mahs  gentes.  East  of  Cape  La  Hou  are 
the  QuaquaSj  or  bods  gentes^  who,  like  the 
Hindoos,  are  divided  into  casts,  the  son  always 
following  the  profession  of  the  father. 

The  coast  between  the  Volta  and  Benin  is 
subject  to  the  powerful  and  barbarous  king  of 
Dahomey y  whose  body  guard  is  composed  of  800 
women,  armed  with  musquets,  bows,  and  arrows ; 
whose  chief  officer^  approach  him  crawling  on 
their  bellies,  and  licking  the  dust  of  the  ground ; 
the  avenues  to  whose  padace  are  paved  with  human 
sculls,  and  its  walls  incrusted  with  the  jaw  bones 
of  his  massacred  subjects ;  and  who,  on  days  of 
ceremony,  sprinkles  the  graves  of  his  ancestors 
with  hiunan  gore,  while  fifty  corpses  and  as  many 
heads  stuck  on  poles,  are  placed  round  the  royal 
sepulchre  : — the  wives  of  the  deceased  king  mu- 
tually kill  each  other,  until  the  new  monarch 
orders  the  massacre  to  cease;  and  the  people,  more 
ferocious  than  tygers,  in  the  midst  of  noisy  re- 
joicing, tear  the  victims  to  pieces,  for  the  mere 
pleasure  of  doing  so,  and  without  even  the  excuse 
of  feasting  on  the  flesh,  for  they  are  not  cannibals* 

The  negroes  of  Benin  are  nearly  as  barbarous 
as  the  Daliomeys.  Their  king,  who  can  bring 
100,000  fighting  men  to  the  field,  is  worshipped 
as  a  demi-god,  is  supposed  to  live  without  food, 
and  when  he  appears  to  die,  is  thought,  like  the 
Grand  Lama^  to  revive  under   another  human 

form ; 


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458  MAtLVma  OSOGEAlVrr 

'±r  form.  Here  hnmaa  victims  are  sacmSceA  US  A« 
evil  principle  ;  and  in  their  feasts^  the  king  add 
nobles  dip  their  coral  neddaces  in  the  btomi  M 
the  victims,  and  praj  to  the  gods,  thai  they  may 
never  be  deprived  of  this  mark  of  pFe-emmence. 

The  nations  between  Benin  and  Loango  are 
little  known.  A  second  tribe  of  Bic^$  kihafatt 
the  banks  of  the  Formosa,  and  are  said  to  sacrifice 
their  children  to  the  devil.  To  them  succeed  thei 
CalbongaSy  occupying  the  country  through  which 
runs  the  Rio  del  Bey  and  San  Benito  :  they  arri 
painted  as  the  least  civUised  of  the  n^o  nations^ 
going  naked,  and  selling  their  children  and  rela* 
tions  as  slaves. 

The  Comma  and  Gobbi  succeed  the  Calbongas, 
and  extend  to  Cape  Lopez  :  they  resemUe  their 
southern  neighbours  of  Loango. 

The  Loangoese  are  named  BramaSj  and  are  a 
handsome  and  robust  race,  feeding  on  fish  and 
the  spontaneous  vegetable  roots  their  countiy 
affords.  They  were  formerly  cannibals,  but  are 
represented  as  much  improved,  friendly  and  hos- 
pitable in  their  mutual  intercourse,  and  much 
addicted  to  love ;  their  great  men  having  a  dozen 
or  more  wives,  and  the  poorest  two  or  three. 
They  cloath  themselves  decently  with  their  own 
inanufactures,  and  ornament  their  necks,  andes, 
and  wrists,  with  beads  of  coral  and  ivory,  shells, 
fee.  They  are  idolators,  but  with  some  slight 
|:incture  of  Mahometanism. 

The  negro  tribes  of  CongOj  Angola,  and  Ben* 
fuela,    differ  essentially  from  those  of  Guinea, 

both 


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THE  WEM  6lMtr  M  AniCA.  40% 

ffiaimers*  Their  hadr  is  s^melhues  sMfiyf  and  raHhtt 
ftidbriedl  than  woaQy ;  nor  have  ^y  the  negro  iM 
tfMe  aAd  tMck  lips,  their  features  fi^t  greasy 
dMM^  from  those  of  90Mkern£c»opi6a«»;  H^eir 
fltoral  character  is,  however,  no<  A««fe  MMablt 
tiMfn  fbat  of  the  Gui!^  liegro^  heit^  d^sefibed 
as  mistrustful,  treacherous,  retevgefuly  and  de^ 
void  of  natural  itffeetioo,  setting  their  wires  and 
ehaldren  for  the  most  ii!isigniifican<  European^  toy; 
6v  f&t  ^  glass  of  brawly.  The  *eBgion  of  those 
who  have  net  beett  pa^tiaJly  converted  fo  C^s^ 
tianitf  by  the  Portuguese,  is  a  monstrduff  cam* 
j^und  of  idolatry  and  superstition^  Ibdnded  by 
their  priests,  who  are  extremely  *ium^itetis,  ti 
perpetuate  their  own  influence.  The  goveihi* 
raents  are  deq)otie  monarchies,  and  the  aecessioA 
of  a  new  sovereign  is  attended  with  a  variety  of 
splendidly  barbarous  ceremonies.  Unlimited  poly* 
gamy  is  authorised  by  their  pagan  institutions^ 
and  in  this  respect  even  the  Christian  converts 
eannot  be  prevailed  on  to  for^o,  what  they 
consider  the  rights  qf  man.  Three  yeatrs  trial  artf 
allowed  the  parties  before  tying  the  connubial 
knot,  a  custom  which  possibly  some  of  our  readett 
may  not  think  entirely  absurd. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  coast  between  Bengueli 
and  the  parallel  of  20^  south,  wherei  according  trt 
Mr.  Barrow,  commences  the  Kqffer  couhtry,  ar*  *^**s 
entirdy  unknown.  The  Kaffirs  occupy  the 
western  coast  from  the  above  parallfl  to  Eliza-  , 
beth  Ba^,  which  separates  them  from  the  Hot- 
tentots. 


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460  MABITIME  OEOGBAFHY* 

^^fjm.  tentots.  In  their  persons,  the  Ks^Eens  are  UH, 
well  made,  and  robust :  'theif  countenance  differs 
entirely  from  that  of  the  negro,  havii^  a  cofusl- 
derable  Arabic  cast,  and  still  more  nearly  resem- 
bling that  of  the  Abyssinian,  whence  it  has  b^en 
supposed  that  they  are  not  the  aborigines  of  this 
country,  but  probably  the  descendsmts  of  some 
wandering  Bedouin  tribes. 

In  their  moral  character  the  Kafiers  are  distin- 
guished by  an  openness  of  manner,  free  from 
embarrasmient  or  suspicion,  and  in  their  relations 
with  strangers  are  good-humoured,  benevolent, 
and  hospitable.  On  the  women  devolves  the 
greater  part  of  the  domestic  drudgery,  as  well  as 
die  field  laboiu*,  the  men  only  preparing  the  leather 
for  their  shoes,  sewing  the  ^ins  that  serve  them  as 
clothing,  attending  the  cattle  in  the  fields,  milk- 
ing the  cows,  and  hunting  the  antelope  with 
the  hassegc^y  a  weapon  also  used  in  battle.  Milk 
in  a  curdled  state  is  the  principal  food  of  the 
Kaffers,  to  which  they  add,  roots,  berries,  and 
other  vegetables,  of  spontaneous  growth,  and  some 
tribes  also  cultivate  a  species  of  holctcs  for  food. 
Tliey  rarely  kill  their  cattle,  except  on  solemn 
pccasions,  and  they  possess  no  other  domestic 
animals,  having  neither  sheep,  goats,  hogs,  or 
poultry.  Their  huts  are  tent  shaped,  the  frames 
q(  laths  of  wood,  plastered  inside  and  out  ^th 
cows'  dung  and  clay ;  they  tattoo  their  skin,  and 
wear  their  hair  frizzled.  Though  not  known  to 
have  any  religious  ceremonies,  they  have  an  exalt* 
ed  idea  of  a  supreme  power,  believe  in  a  future 

state 


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THE  WEST  COAST  OF  AFRICA.  4^ 

fitate  of  retribution,  and  think  that  the  woild  is 
eternal;  they  have  also  much  faith  in  sorcery, 
and  practice  circumcision,  but  not  as  a  religious 
rite.  The  Kaffers  are  governed  by  hereditary 
chiefs,  whose  power  consists  in  their  being  consi- 
dered the  fathers  of  their  people,  than  whom  they 
are  often  less  rich,  for,  receiving  no  subsidies,  and 
being  permitted  to  have  as  many  wives  as  they 
please,  their  finances  are  not  always  equal  to  their 
expenses.  The  Kaffers  are  succeeded  by  the  Hot- 
tentots,  of  whom  we  shall  speak  in  the  account  of 
the  territory  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 


OF  THB 

RISE  AND  PJM>ORESS 

OP  THi    -- 

EUROPEAN  ESTABLlSHMtNfTS  AND  COMMERCE 

ON  THB 

SOIJTH-WEST  COAST  OP  AFRICA. 


The  knowledge  possessed  by  the  ancients  of  the 
west  coast  of  Africa  did  not  extend  beyond  Cap^ 
Roxo,  on  the  coast  of  Seiiegambia ;  and  though 
some  of  their  expeditions  to  this  coast  were  for 
the  express  purpose  of  founding  colonies,  the  re* 
iations  of  them  which  have  reached  us  are  so 
superficial,  vague,  and  absurdly  marvellous,  that 
it  is  impossible  to  form  from  them  any  idea  of  the 
then  state  of  these  countries. 

Of 


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fl6({  ujfMntu  0Eooft4t;tf. 

pf  the  aatioms  of  imodern  Europe,  the  VtetiJ^ 
Ifijr  jdaim  to  1^  honour  of  having  £rst  visited  tbeoe 
fi99MiBi  for^  according  to  their  hJ3tofian3,  the 
inerpbaats  of  Dieppe  and  Rouen  traded  to  theqi 
90  e^ly  afi  the  beginning  of  the  iburteepth  cea- 
^ury,  apd  forijaed  several  establishments  hetweep 
the  Senegjd  afi4  the  Bay  of  Beijiinu^  The  civil 
ware  whidi  coavuUed  France  towards  the  end  o^ 
the  $iune  century,  and  in  which  the  Normao^ 
took  an  ^^^ve  part,  juit  a  stqp  to  their  expeditioni^ 
to  Afirica^  apd  the  establishments  beipg  n^lecte^ 
or  abandoned,  not  a  trace  of  them  remained  o^ 
the  arrival  of  the  Portuguese  on  these  coasts  in 
the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century. 

The  first  voyages  of  the  Portuguese  were  but 
predatory  excursions  against  the  Moors,  to  which 
succeeded  a  coBaneroeiof  exchange ;  and  finally  the 
court  of  Portugal  deeming  it  for  its  temporal  in- 
terest to  annexe  these  new-discovered  countries  to 
its  dominion,  as  well  as  for  the  glory  of  God  to 
convert  the  Pagan  natives  to  the  true  religion,  a 
bull  was  obtained  from  Pope  Martin  V.  (14*32), 
which  granted  to  Portugal  the  sovereignty  of  the 
M|i]|$r«^#.ijie  ipficMs,  oaconditioofi^coByert- 
M|g  ti)(em,  luid  aocprd^d  plenary  ini]u}gences  t^ 
jW#(>ld$,of  .all  those  who  should  per^h  jn  t^^ 
f»i>^s  ei[pNidMioiis.    It  does  BpU  how^vi^,  pfffmf 

thH 


••  ywotof  ttifw  attaMisbuMMrfa  (»  the  Gntn  Q^  ^yere  nuaiei  j#  fff;fVfi 
wa^  le, Petit  Paris  i  md  ist.  George  de  la  Mine,  on  the  Oold  Coaftt^  issalit 
to  -hare  recdred  this  asme  from  (he  Fraidi>  who  bttilt  a  fmhwe  in 
1382. 


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THE  WEST  COAtST  OF  AFRICA.  463 

^at  the  Portuguese  took  immediate  advantage  of 
this  liberal  dopation ;  for  the  first  o£  their  esta- 
bliBbmeiits  of  which  we  have  historical  record^j  is 
that  of  El-Mina,  founded  in  1481 ;  and  three 
years  after  we  find  tiiem  taking  fwrnal  possession 
of  Uie  country^  by  erecting  a  cross  and  pUlar,  wii;h 
an  inscription^  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Zaire^ 
a^d  at  the  same  time  the  King  of  Porti^gai  added 
to  his  titles  that  of  Lord  of  the  Kingdom  qfGtdnefl 
md  qf  the  Coast  (fJfrka. 

Hie  moQopdy  of  the  trade  of  these  cof^ts  was 
ei^oyed  by  Portugal  until  its  subjection  to  the 
crown  of  Spain^  when  the  Portuguese  were  driven 
from  all  their  settlements  by  the  Dutch  ;  and  al- 
tlkough  they  ^gain  recovered  them  wiUi  their  in- 
dep^deocc;^  tliey  now  fi^und  formidable  f^t^ur* 
repis  ill  \b^  P^ch,  English,  an^  French.  .By  a 
tnss^y  ¥cith  the  £(r^  tbey  entirely  relinquished  the 
Xi^  of  laradlUg  between  Cs^pe  Palmas  a^d  th(s 
Vdta^  in  retwut  fpr  the  restoration  of  th^e  town  of 
Fjeraf»nbucQ,,^en  by.the  Dutch  in  163Q..  They 
have  also  abandoned  all  their  etstahlishfltie^ts  from 
Pape  Spartel  to  the  Casseman9a,  but  still  ciaim 
the  exclurive  trade  from  that  river  to  th^  .Rio 
Kunez,  between  which  they  have  n^any  ^ettJe^ 
ments.  Hie  principal  trade  of  the  Portuguese, 
on  this  part  of  the  coast,  is,  however,  witiifoi* 
reigners,  who  anchor  here  on  pretence  of  wantii^ 
provisions.  Their  chief  settlement  is  Cachao,  on 
tiie  river  St.  Domingo,  where  three  or  four  ships 
arrive  annually  from  Lisbon  and  the  Cape  VeHl 
Uaaddi  and  take  off  1,500  to  ^,000  slaves,  ItfO  to 

200,000lbs. 


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Ctmauree* 


464  MARITIME  GEOGRAFttt. 

200,000lbs.  of  wax,  50  to  60,000lbs.  of  ivory, 
some  hides,  and  a  little  gold.  The  Portuguese  are 
also  numerous  on  the  banks  of  the  Sierra  Leonar 
and  Mesurado,  but  their  chief  settlements  and 
trade  are  to  the  south  of  Angola,  from  whence 
they  supply  Brazil  with  about  8,000  slaves  annu- 
ally. 

The  Portuguese  settlements  in  Africa  are  per- 
fect colonies,  and  their  inhabitants  are,  almost 
without  exception,  a  mongrel  breed,  and  many 
of  them  perfect  negroes  in  appearance.  Those 
few  who  are  addicted  to  commerce  acquire  a  com- 
fortable independence ;  but  the  far  greater  num- 
ber are  lazy,  poor,  thievish,  debauched,  proud, 
and  superstitious.  They  are  extremely  jealous  €^ 
their  women,  those  who  are  called  white  being 
never  permitted  to  stir  out  in  the  day,  not  even  to 
mass;  and*  those  of  colour,  who  enjoy  mwe  li- 
berty, cannot  appear  abroad  but  envelopped,  so  as 
to  leave  one  eye  only  visible.  An  African  Portu- 
guese considers  it  an  insult  to  in(}uire  after  Ae 
health  of  his  wife.  The  dress  of  the  men  is  a 
cloak,  shirt,  hat,  a  long  sword,  and  a  dagger, 
with  a  chaplet  of  beads  round  the  neck.  They 
have  their  churches  and  their  priests ;  and  their 
habitations,  though  like  tliose  of  the  negroes  ge- 
nerally built  of  reeds,  are  larger,  more  solid,  imd 
more  commodious. 


After  the  lapse  of  a  century  and  a  half  the 
French  Bg^dn  appeared  on  the  west  coast  of  Airica 
(1579)*    At  first  private  associations,  unsupported 

by 


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THF  WEST  COAST  OF  AFRICA.       465 

by  government,  formed  trading  establishments;  *'«*«^- 
and  in  1626  the  merchants  of  Dieppe  and  Rouen 
sent  a  superintendant  to  the  island  of  St.  Louis. 
In  1-664  these  same  merchants  sold  their  establish- 
ments to  the  West-India  Company  for  150,000 
livres.  From  this  period  until  the  revolution  the 
trade  was  monopolised  by  successive  companies, 
most  of  whom  conducted  it  so  improvidently,  that 
it  reduced  them  to  bankruptcy,  and  they  were  ob- 
liged to  sell  their  charters  to  new  companies,  who 
succeeded  no  better :  thus  in  1673  the  sale  was 
made  for  75,000  livres ;  in  1683  for  upwards  of  a 
million  ;  in  1694 for  300,000;  in  1709  for  240,000; 
in  1718for  1,600,000.  This  last  sale  was  made  to 
the  Mississipi  Company,  which  no  w  took  the  name  of 
the  East-India  Company,  at  its  termination  in  1758. 
Its  establishments  were  Arguin  and  Portendick  *, 
on  the  coast  of  the  desert;  St.  Louis  and  Podor, 
on  the  Senegal ;  Fort  St.  Peter  and  St.  Joseph,  in 
the  kingdom  of  Galam  ;  Goree  and  Joal ;  Albre- 
da,  on  the  Gambia ;  Bintam  and  Bissao  Island. 

By  the  peace  of  I78S  the  French  were  guaran- 
teed the  exclusive  right  of  forming  perma?i&nt 
establishments  on  the  coast,  from  Cape  Blanco  to 
Cape  Verd  t,  with  the  stipulation  of  the  right  of 
the  English  to  trade  between  Portendick  and  the 
river  St  John  inclusive.     The  same  treaty  se- 

voL.  II.  2  H  cured 

V 

•  Portendick  was  purchased  from  the  Moors  by  the  Senegal  Company,  In 
1717. 

f  The  peninsula  of  Cape  Verd  was  purchased  by  the  French  from  the 
Ufqro  prince,  in  17C3. 


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4(66  HAMTIfiE  GEOaRAPHT. 

cured  to  France  the  island  of  Goree»  the  ngf^  ^ 
trading  between  Cape  Verd  and  the  Gambia,  and 
between  the  Gambia  and  Sierra  Leone,*   yriA 
the  possession    of  the  fort  of  Albreda,   in  the 
Gambia. 

In  1784  the  French  establi^ed  a  military  post 
on  the  Isle  of  Gambia  in  the  river  Sierra  Leone, 
but  which  being  totally  neglected  at  home,  was 
abandoned,  in  1793,  by  the  two  or  three  Europeans 
who  survived  the  rest  of  their  companions  carried 
off  by  disease.  In  1786  a  French  mercantile  house, 
with  the  authority  of  government,  formed  a  com- 
mercial establishment  on  an  island,  called  Borodo^ 
in  the  river  Formosa,  of  which  a  grant  was  pro- 
cured from  the  native  prince,  and  which  had  ar- 
rived at  some  consistence,  whai,  in  1792>  it  was 
attacked  by  surprise,  by  three  Liverpool  ships,  and 
totally  destroyed*  In  1791  the  French  African 
Company  was  suppressed  by  a  decree  of  the  Na- 
tional Convention. 


The  English,  restrained  by  deference  to  the 
papal  bulls  which  granted  the  sovereignty  of 
Africa  to  the  Portuguese,  did  not  visit  the  west 
coast  until  after  they  had  thrown  off  that  deference 
in  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century.    In  15S6 

an 

*  Acoording  to  the  opinion  of  pnbUdsts^  tbe  English,  Frendi*  ani 
P<^agae8e  hare  a  right  to  trade  hetween  the  Gambia  and  Sierra  Leone, 
with  the  restrietion  that  the  English  are  not  entitled  to  form  eetaJMishmaits 
except  on  the  Bi88agot«»  and  thence  to  Sierra  Leone. 


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THE  ?nBST   COAST   OF   AFRICA.  467 

an  asaociatioii  of  English  merchants  first  sent  a 
fliiip  to  the  coast  of  Ghiinea  to  prbcure  gold  dust^ 
ivory,  and  Guinea  pepper ;  which  answered  so  wdl 
thM,  from  that  year,  a  considerable  free  trade  was 
carried  on  until  1586,  whai  Queen  Elizabeth 
granted  to  a  company  the  monopoly  of  the  com- 
merce between  the  Senegal  and  Gambia,  a  privi- 
l^e  which  it  continued  to  e^Kercise  till  I66I,  when 
it  received  a  formal  charter  from  Charles  II.  with 
the  title  of  the  Royal  African  Company ;  its  ex* 
dusive  privilege  being  at  the  same  time  extended 
from  Cape  Hanco,  in  the  Bay  of  Arguin,  to  the 
Cape  o£  Good  Hope ;  and  in  six  years  after  it 
received  the  fiill  sovereignty  of  the  whole  coast, 
firom  Sidlee  to  the  latter  cape,  saving  those  parts 
already  occupied  by  other  European  nations,  on 
the  condition  of  presenting  his  majesty,  and  his 
8iicces6c»*s^  with  two  elephants,  whenever  he  or 
they  thought  proper  to  visit  the  coast  of  Afiica. 
Tlie  losses  this  company  sustained  by  its  wars  with 
the  Portuguese  and  Dutch  obliged  it  to  sell  its  pri- 
vilege and  estaUishments,  in  I67S,  for  ^34,000  to 
a  new  company. 

This  new  African  Company  being  protected  by 
government,  its  affiiirs  continaed  to  prosper,  and 
it  increased  the  number  of  establishments  untd 
1695,  when  the  people  began  to  murmur  at  ex« 
elusive  chaifters,  as  contrary  to  their  ri^ts^  and 
detrimental  to  the  country ;  which,  inel697,  pro- 
duced an  act  of  parliament,  making  the  African 
trade  free  for  thirteen  years,  leaving,  however,  t)ie 

2  H  2  company 


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468  MARITIME   GEOGRAPHY. 

ommerce.  company  ill  the  possession  of  the  establishmentSr 
the  support  of  which  was  provided  for  by  a  duty  of 
ten  per  cent  on  the  imports  from  the  coast  of 
Africa  (slaves,  gold  arid  silver  excepted).  At  the 
expiration  of  the  thirteen  years,  no  further  provi- 
sion being  made,  private  merchants  continued  ta 
carry  it  on  as  before,  and  even  the  ten  per  cent, 
for  the  support  of  the  establishments  ceased  to  be 
levied,  and  in  1730  parliament  voted  jCl0,00O 
per  annum  to  the  company  in  lieu ;  but  the  latter, 
not  deeming  this  a  sufficient  sum,  petitioned  several 
times  until  1751,  when  the  parliament  revoked  the 
charter,  paying  the  company  ^112,142  as  a  fiiU 
compensation  for  the  forts  and  other  establish- 
ments. A  free  company  was  now  established,  un- 
der the  control  of  the  Board  of  Trade,  each  mem- 
ber of  the  company  trading  with  his  own  stock, 
and  on  his  own  account ;  and  an  annual  sum  was 
continued  for  the  support  of  the  forts,  &c.*  This 
company  still  exists,  and  appoints  the  officers  at 
home  and  abroad. 

Between  the  peace  of  1763  and  the  war  of  the 
revolution,  England  sent  yearly  to  the  west  coast 
of  Africa  about  200  ships,  or  23,000  tons,  in  which 
.  were  employed  8,000  seamen.  Of  these  Liver- 
pool sent  one  half,  and  Bristol  and  London  the 
other. 

The  English  establishments  are,  James'  Fort, 
and  several  factories  on  the  Gambia:  on  the  Gold 
Coast, 

Apollonia, 

•  lu  1814,  jff25,000  was  graulcd  for  thh  purpose. 


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THE   WEST   COAST   OF  AFRICA.  469 

ApoUonia,  Tamtumquerry, 

Discove,  Winnebah, 

Succondee,  Akra  (Fort  James), 

Commenda^  Whidah  Factory. 
Animaboo, 


Commerctt 


The  Dutch  first  visited  the  coast  of  Africa  in 
1595 ;  and  in  I6I7  purchased  the  Jsland  of  Goree 
from  the  native  prince.  In  1624  they  built  Cape 
Corso,  or  Coast  Castle  ;  in  1637  dispossessed  the 
Portuguese  of  St.  George  d'Elmina;  and  in  1644 
took  Axim  from  them.  The  trade  was  succes- 
sively vested  in  companies  and  made  free,  until 
the  war  of  the  revolution,  when  it  wa?  in  the  hands 
of  the  West  India  Company. 

The  establishments  were  all  on  the  Gold  Coast: 

Axim  (Fort  St.  Anthony), 

Fort  HoUandia,* 

Botro  (Fort  Batenstein), 

Tacorary, 

Sucondee  (Fort  Orange), 

Chama  (Fort  St.  Sebastian),t 

Little  Commenda  (Fort  Vedtenborg, 

St.  George  d'  Elmina, 

St.  Yago,  or  Conradsborg, 

Mauree  (Fort  Nassau), 

2  H  3  Coromantyn 

•  Founded  by  the  Bnmdeiiburgers  (Prussiana),  by  the  name  of  Frede- 
ricksborg,  but  abandoned  in  1720 ;  as  well  as  another  fort  at  Acoda,  and  a 
factory  on  tliis  coast,  which  belonged  to  an  African  company  founded  at 
Enibden. 

t  Built  by  the  Poituguew. 


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Cmmmern, 


470  MARITIME  OfiOORAPHT. 

Coromantyn  (Fort  Amsterdam),* 

Apam  (Fort  Leydsaamheyd), 

Bercoe, 

Acra  (Fort  Crevecceur). 


The  Danes  first  appeared  on  the  west  coast  of 
Africa  in  1650 ;  and,  as  we  have  already  observed, 
claim  a  territory  on  this  coast,  through  which  ruM 
the  river  Volta. 

Their  establishments  are, 

Acra  (Fort  Chiistansborg),  on  the  Gold  Coast ; 

Fort  Fredensborg,  ^ 

Fort  Kongstein,     VOn  the  Slave  Coast 

Fort  Prindstein,     j 

Besides  several  factories  dispersed  on  the  coast 
as  far  as  Popo. 

Spain  has  neither  settlements  nor  commerce 
on  the  west  coast  of  Africa;  for  though  the 
inlands  of  Fernando  Po  and  Anabona  were 
ceded  to  her  by  Portugal  in  17^8,  in  order  to  the 
carrying  on  a  direct  slave  trade,  she  has  never 
taken  efficient  possession  of  them.  After  &e 
ceasing  of  the  Assiento  act,^  the  exclusive  privilege 
of  supplying  slaves  to  the  Spanish  colonies  was 
granted  to  an  English  merchant,  who  held  it  only 
till  1752,  when  the  island  of  Porto  Rico  was  made 
free  to  the  slave  ships  of  all  nations,  on  payment 

of 

•  Ittea  fiiom  tbeEn^ish  by  De  Rvytcr  ia  l§6$. 


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THE  WEST   COAST   OF  AFRICA.  471 

of  nine  pounds  duty  per  slave.  In  1765  an  associ-  ^^^^^j;:;^ 
ation  of  Cadiz  merchants  undertook  to  supply 
the  colonies  with  negroes,  but  soon  gave  up  the 
speculation.  In  1789  the  importaticm  of  slaves^ 
by  all  nations,  was  permitted  Into  St  Domingo, 
Porto  Rico^  Porto  Cavallo,  and  the  Havannah, 
ibr  two  years  only;  akid  only  in  vessels  under 
300  tons,  and  two-thirds  of  the  slaves  to  be  males: 
at  the  same  time  a  bounty  of  seventeen  shillings 
was  accorded  for  every  slave  imported  by  Spani- 
ards. These  permissions  and  encouragements 
had,  however,  so  little  effect,  that  until  the  aboli- 
tion c^the  slave  trade  in  England,  the  Spanish 
colonies  received  four-fifths  of  their  slaves  from 
the  English,  according  to  the  previous  demands  * 
of  the  Spanish  planters  to  the  merchants  of 
London,  Bristol,  and  Liverpool  engaged  in  this 
trade. 


The  articles  of  trade  carried  by  Europeans  to 
the  coasts  of  Africa,  in  general,  are,  iron  in  bars, 
iron  tools,  sabres,  clasp  knives,  fire  arms,  and 
other  objects  in  iron  of  the  commonest  kind  j 
block  tin,  copper  basons,  common  glass  ware  and 
looking  glasses ;  glass,  coral,  and  amber  beads ; 
powder,  balls,  small  shot,  and  gun-flints }  sugar, 
coffee,  spices,  tobacco,  and  pipes;  salt,  spirits,* 
wine,  cowries,t  paper ;  India  cottons  of  various 
2  H  4  qualities^ 

•  The  segroM  being  passimuUely  food  of  ipiriu  the  Goanuiiptkm  U  rerj 
great.    In  1786,  Lirerpool  alone  exported  370,000  gaHoos. 

t  Cowries,  smin  shells,  are  used  on  i\n  coaat  of  OuIma,  both  in  ^« 
dress  of  the  negroes  and  as  money. 


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472  MARITIME   GEOGRAPHY. 

c^mmerc€.  quallties,  imported  by  the  East  India  Compahi^ 
of  the  various  nations  for  this  trade;  and,  chiefly 
as  presents  for  their  chiefs,  some  broad  cloth, 
particularly  scarlet,  silks,  silk  parasols,  silver  chains, 
laced  cocked  hats,  gold-headed  canes,  &c. 

The  French,  as  has  been  already  noticed,  are 
entitled  to  "the  exclusive  trade,  and  to  the  privi- 
lege of  erecting  settlements  between  Cape  Blanc 
and  the  Gambia,  with  the  exception  to  the  Eng- 
lish,  of  permission  to  trade  for  gum  alone,  between 
St.  John^s  river  and  Portendicfc.  The  fort  of 
Albreda  was  also  guaranteed  to  France  by  the 
same  treaty,  with  the  express  limitation  of  only 
trading  with  the  interior ;  the  commerce  by  the 
*      river  being  secured  to  the  English. 

The  productions  of  Senegal  for  commerce  are, 
gum  senega, ^^^  ivory,  gold  dust,  ostrich  feathers, 
some  wax,  liides,  and  some  slaves.  The  quantity 
of  gum  senega  imported  into  Europe  is  about  two 
millions  of  pounds  per  annum,  but  varies  greatly 
according  to  the  state  of  peace  or  war  between 
the  Moorish  tribes,  and  between  them  and  the 
negroes  on  the  banks  of  the  Senegal,  as  well  as 
from  the  difference  of  the  harvests,  produced  by 
the  degree  of  humidity  of  the  atmosphere  at  the 
time  the  trees  exude.  In  1786  the  French  ex- 
ported only  858,800 lbs;  in  I789  upwards  of  a 
million.  In  1793  only  172,000 lbs;  and  in  1799, 
again  more  than  a  million.  ^The  English  generally 
take  off  about  half  a  million,  and  another  half 
million  is  supposed  to  be  exported  without  being 
accounted  for.     In  1784,  the  other  exports  from 

Senegal 


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THE   WEST  COAST   OF  AFRICA.  473 

Senegal  were,  ivory  6,012  lb?,  goJd  531  gross, 
and  1,071  slaves.  The  gum  is  purchased  on  the 
spot  for  about  six  pence  or  seven  pence  the  pound ; 
the  ivory  for  about  sixteen  pence ;  the  gold  iEpr 
eight  shillings  the  gross ;  and  the  slaves  for  about 
eighteen  pounds  per  head.  The  unity  of  exchange 
in  Sen^al  is  the  Bar,*  being  the  estimated  value 
of  a  bar  of  iron,  weighing  about  fifteen  pounds.  It 
is  calculated  at  four  shillings  sterling ;  therefore 
ninety  ba^s  is  the  general  average  price  of  a  slave. 

The  objects  procured  in  the  Gambia, .  and  on 
the  coast  from  thence  to  Sierra  Leone,  are  a  great 
quantity  of  wax,  collected  in  the  woods  by  the 
negroes,  ivory,  gold  dust,  and  slaves:  the  latter 
are  purchased  for  about  sixteen  pounds  a  head. 
There  are  many  English  trading  places  on  the 
river  Pongo.  On  the  Grain  and  Tooth  coasts  the 
trade  is  entirely  carried  on  on  board  ship. 

The  extent  of  the  trade  from  Cape  Verd  to 
Cape  Palmas,  previous  to  the  abolition  of  the 
slave  trade,  was  as  follows :  — 


Goriee  and  Gambia.. 

Rio  Nunez 

Bio  Pongo.... ...... 

Sierra  Leon^ 

Sherbro'  River 

River  Galliua^ 

Cape  Mount  to  Cape 
Palmas •-. .. 


Cain. 

Bees* 

Slavei. 

Ivory, 

tF(.od. 

Riee. 

H'ax. 

Pfpper. 

Value. 

Tons. 

Tons. 

Ton*. 

Tons. 

Tons. 

/. 

2,000 

15 

— 

— 

ir.o 

— 

60,000 

600 

20 

— 

— 

— 

— 

iy,ooo 

2,000 

30 

GO 

— 

— 

— 

52,000 

3,200 

15 

200 

800 

— 

— 

82,000 

500 

— 

200 

300 

— 

— 

18,000 

1,200 

— 

80 

— 

— 

— 

26,000 

2,000 

20 

— 

— 

— 

100 

43,000 

11,500 

100 

540 

1,100 

150 

100 

305,000 

These 

•  In  general  the  n^roes  are  unacquainted  with  specie  as  a  circulatiug 
medium  of  commerce,  but  form  to-  tiiemselves  an  ideal  standard,  whicli 
differs  in  denomination^  and  fluctuates  in  vahie  on  different  paru  of  the 
coast. 


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474  If  AmmiE  obogbabby. 

Hiese  values  are  calculated  at  the  avange  i 
on  the  coast,  m.^-^Slares  JCOO  a  head,  ivory 
£350  a  ton,  caiawood  £95  dkbcs  rice  ^10  ditixi^ 
wax  ^100  dittos  pepper  i^lO  dfitto.  On  limm 
coasts  the  unity  of  exchange  is  the  besr. 

On  the  Gc4d  coast  the  English,  Dutch,  and 
Danes  carry  cm  an  extensive  commerce,  by  means 
of  their  forts  avid  factories,  ^slfaich  are  always 
stocked  with  articles  of  trade.  The  unity  of  ex- 
change is  the  ounce  of  gold,  valued  at  66s.  8dL 
sterling.  Cowries  are  more  in  use  en  this  coast 
as  money  than  on  the  others  ^  a  string  of  forty  is  a 
toque,  Sev^  toques '  a  gallina  or  price  of  a  tomU 
twenty  gallinas  a  cabishe,  and  four  cahtthes  or 
16,000  cowries,  half  a  gdd  mmcew 

The  English,  French,  Dutch,  Danes,  imd  Por- 
tuguese tra^  to  the  coast  between  the  river  Vdta 
and  Cape  Lopez,  or  the  Slave  Coast,,  in  iU  most 
extended  sense ;  but  the  Portuguese  are  obliged 
to  pay  ten  per  cent  to  the  Dutch  for  this  privilege 
by  the  treaty  already  noticed.  This  tax  is  re- 
ceived at  St.  George  d'Elmina.  The  Portuguese 
chiefly  trade  with  the  tobacco  of  Brasil,  which  is 
preferred  by  negroes  to  all  other.  On  this  coast 
the  unity  of  exchange  is  the  ounce ;  and  trading 
vessels  are  obliged  to  pay  large  customs  or  pre^ 
sents  to  the  king  of  Dahomey  and  other  chief  men. 
The  coast  of  the  Gobbi,  south  of  Cape  Lopez,  has 
little  other  trade  than  the  export  of  some  logwood, 
elephants'  teeth  and  hair,  which  latter  is  used  for 
various  purposes. 

Before  the  revolution  the  French  almost  mono- 

poliaad 


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THE  WEST  COAST  GF  AFRICA.  .     4/73 

polized  the  trade  of  the  coast  of  Loango  to 
Ambriz,*  usually  sending  thirty  vessels  a  year  to 
the  ports  of  Cabenda,  Malemba,  and  Loango, 
which  took  off  IS^OOO  slaves  and  a  small  quantity 
of  ivory,  elephants  being  rare  on  this  coast,  ffom 
its  being  more  hilly,  and  with  less  underwood,  and 
fewer  rivers,  than  the  coast  of  Guinea.  The  unity 
of  exchange  here  is  the  piece,  or  arbitrary  value  of 
a  piece  of  India  calico,  which  is  estimated  at 
about  6s.  Sd. 

The  exclusive  sovereignty  and  commerce  of  the 
coast  south  of  Ambri^  is  claimed  by  tlie  Portu-* 
guese,  and  generally  acknowledged  by  all  other 
nation9*  The  jealous  caution  of  the  Portuguese^ 
with  respect  to  the  gold  and  silver  mines  of  Saint 
Paul,  preventing  foreigners  from  visiting  this 
country,]  it  is,^  consequently,  very  imperfectly 
known  to  us.  Its  exports  are  slaves,  some  ircHi^ 
copper,  lead,  and  gold. 

/Between  Cape  Negro  and  the  territory  of  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  the  Europeans  have  neither 
establishments  nor  commerce :  a  few  of  the  southera 
ports  only  being  occasionally  visited  by  whalers. 

The 

•  In  coiuequeiioe  of  a  dispute  between  France  and  Portugal*  respecting 
tihis  coast,  a  couTention  was  signed  at  Paris  in  1786,  by  which  it  was 
agreed,  that  France  shoold  eigoy  the  same  trading  pri?ileges  as  tlie  English 
and  Dutch,  on  the  coast  south  of  the  river  Zaire ;  on  which  Portugal  claimed 
the  sole  right  of  forming  establishments. 


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476      •  MARITIME   GEOGRAPHY. 


TV  SUM 


The  Slave  Trade. 

The  Portuguese  have  been  generally  but  very 
unjustly  accused  of  having  given  birth  to  the 
African  Slave  Trade ;  for  it  appe^lrs  from  the  most 
authentic  historical  documents,  that  this  traffic 
was  known  in  Africa  several  centuries  before 
the  Portuguese  discoveries.  In  the  ninth  cen- 
tury, we  read  in  the  "  Travels  of  two  Mahome- 
tans,*' that  negro  slaves  were  found  in  Arabia 
and  India ;  and  in  the  travels  of  Tudela,  written 
in  the  twelfth  century,  it  is  said,  that  the  Abyssi- 
nians  made  incursions  into  certain  parts  of  Ethio- 
pia for  the  purpose  of  carrying  off  slaves,  which 
they  sold  in  Egypt  and  other  neighbouring  coun- 
tries:  besides,  the  Moors  of  the  Desart,  in  the  time 
of  the  first  Portuguese  voyages,  were  in  the  habit 
of  making  the  negroes  slaves,  as  they  do  at  this 
day.  It  seem§,  therefore,  certain,  that  neither 
the  Portuguese  voyages,  nor  the  discovery  of 
America,  gave  rise  to  the  traffic  in  human  beings ; 
but  that  the  latter  event  increased  it  a  million  fold, 
admits  no  doubt. 

Historians  differ  in  the  exact  time  wlien  the 
Portuguese  first  made  the  capture  or  purchase  of 
slaves  a  part  of  their  enterprise  to  the  coast  of 
Africa. 

According  to  some,  Alonzo  Gonzalez,  in  1134, 
first  seized  some  negroes  on  the  coast  of  Guinea, 

and 


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THE  WEST  COAST  OF  AFRICA.       «         477 

and  carried  them  to  Portugal ;  while  others  assert,  '^ST' 
that  the  first  negroes  were  seen  in  that  country  in 
1442,  and  were  procured  from  the  Moors  of  the 
Desart,  in  exchange  for  some  of  their  own  people 
made  prisoners  by  the  Portuguese.  So  rapid  was 
the  depopulation  of  the  first  colonies  settled  by  the 
Spaniards  in  the  New  World,  that  in  1503,  ten 
years  only  after  its  discovery,  it  was  found  neces- 
sary to  look  abroad  for  hands  to  cultivate  the 
ground  and  work  the  mines,  and  from  this  epoch 
the  African  Slave  Trade,  which  was  hitherto  only 
the  piratical  speculations  of  a  few  individuals, 
became  a  regular  branch  of  commerce,  authorized 
and  protected  by  the  various  maritime  govern- 
ments of  Europe ;  for  though  Spain  first  forbid 
the  importation  of  negroes  into  the  colonies,  lest 
they  should  corrupt  the  Indians  and  lead  them 
to  revolt,  this  prohibition  was  of  short  duration, 
and  in  1517  the  traffic  was  formally  sanctioned 
by  Charles  V.,  on  the  suggestion  of  Las  Casa^, 
the  celebrated  advocate  for  the  American  Indians, 
who,  while  he  moved  heaven  and  earth  to  pro- 
cure freedom  for  his  favourite  race,  felt  no  com- 
punction  in  rivetting  the  chains  of  slavery  on  the 
equally  innocent  Africans.  In  consequence  of 
this  sanction  thus  procured,  4,000  African  slaves 
were  immediately  imported  into  St.  Domingo, 
Cuba,  Jamaica,  and  Porto  Rico. 

The  English  are  entitled  to  the  disgraceful  ce- 
lebrity of  being  the  third  nation  of  Europe  tliat 
entered   into  a  regular    and    systematic    'corn- 
mere^ 


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flvOiM 


ifjS  If AMTIHE  GHEOGBiLFHT. 

mewe  in  human  flesh.     Having  no  ed<miea  ta 
consume  dxveSj  their  first  expediticms  to  the  coMt 
of  Africa  were  fbr  the  purpose  of  procuring  gold* 
du8t»  ivoiy»  and  Ouinea  pepper.    They  did  not^ 
howerer^  long  perseveie  in  this  legitimate  traffic^ 
fiirin  15d4  it  is  rdated,  that  0(ptain  Garnish 
kidnapped  four  negroes  with  the  gold  they  hron^^ 
to  exchange,  and  conveyed  them  to  England.  This 
first  act  of  outrage  was  followed  by  others,  whi<^ 
being  made  known  to  Queen  EUzabedi,  she  stdcdj 
prohibited  the  conveyii^  away  negroes  from  the 
coast  without  their  own  consent,  under  (according 
to  the  words  of  the  prohibition)  ^*  severe  penalties 
in  this  world,  and  certain  divine  punishment  in 
the  next.''    These  orders  had,  however,  so  little 
^fect,  that  Sir  John   Hawkins  in  1562^  jointly 
with  some  other  speculators,  fitted  out  three  ships 
for  the  coast,  and  contrary  to  the  express  orders 
of  the  Queen  to  himself,    procured  a  number  <^ 
slaves,  which  he  sold  to  the  Spaniards  in  the  West 
Indies.     This  speculation  turned  out  so  advan^ 
tageous,  that  it  was  followed  by  others,  in  one  q£ 
whidi  the  celebrated  Drake  had  a  part ;   and  the 
Queen,  doubtless  misled  by  the  false  character 
given  of  the  negroes,  as  an  inferior  race,  destined 
by  Providence  to  be  the  slaves  of  white  men,  to- 
wards the  last  years  of  her  reign  sanctioned  the 
trade  on  which  she  had  formerly  invoked  the  ven« 
geance  of  heaven. 

.  The  French  had  established  colonies  in  the  West 
Indies  several  years  beforf  their  vessels  visited 

the 


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THS  ^SST  QOMT  OF  AFBICA.  479 

tiie  coa^  of  Afiica  for  slaves,  and  this  toide  was    ^%SS!^ 
first  sanCtioaDed  by  the  fious  Louis  XIM.,  who 
was  persuaded  that  redudng^  the  negroes  to  sk>- 
Yeiy,  was  the  only  way  of  converting  them  to 
Christianity* 

Tlie  slave  tntde,  after  biving  contimie4  to  dia- 
g^tK:e  all  die  ofiaritime  nations  of  Europe  possessed 
of  colonies  within  the  tropics,  for  near  three 
oenturies,  has  at  length  been  abdisfaed  by  most 
<^  these  nations.  Neverthelesfl,  our  readers  will 
probably  not  be  displeased  witii  a  ^ort  deserqp- 
tioo  of  the  manner  it  was  carried  on^  and  which 
indeed  is  a  kind  of  necessaiy  introduction  to  the 
account  of  its  abolition. 

The  slaves  procured  by  the  Europeans  were 
either  prisoners  taken  in  the  ^ ward  between  the 
Begro  tribes,  often  f6r  the  express  purpose  of 
making  slaves,  criminals  condemned  to  be  sold,  or 
firee-persons  kidnapped  either  by  the  Eurc^peans 
or  by  their  own  countrymen.  On  some  parts  of 
the  coast,  particularly  Angola,  the  negco  Princes 
claim  the  power  o£  thus  seizing  every  negro  of 
inferior  quality,  and  every  prx^prietor  of  a  village 
that  of  seizing  his  own  vassals,  on  his  own  estate 
onfy,  unless  he  has  the  ccmsent  of  the  owner  of 
the  estate  on  which  the  vassal  is  at  the  time. 

The  slave  merchants  ako  procure  a  number  of 
slaves  in  this  cheap  manner,  but  chiefly  confine 
themselves  to  negroes  of  the  interior,  who  accom- 
pany them  to  the  trading  places  in  hopes  of  satis- 
iyii^  their  curiosity,  or  procuring  a  glass  or  two 
of  brandy.    When  a  merchant  takes  it  into  his 

head 


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The 

TVirfe. 


480  MARITIME  GEOORAPHT. 

S^    head  thus  to  seize  a  negro  stranger,  he  points  him 
out  by  a  sign  to  the  captain,  who  judges  at  a 
glance  whether  he  is  merchantable  or  not ;  if  he 
accepts  him,  the  merchant  suddenly  falls  on  the 
wretch,  and,  whatever  may  be  his  strength,  he  is 
soon  mastered  by  numbers,  and  a  chain  is  imme- 
diately locked  round  his  neck.     As  by  the  first 
conventions  between  the  negro  princes  and  the 
Europeans  the  captains  of  ships  were  allowed  the 
privilege  of  kidnapping  within  their  fences,  and 
the  space  between  their  magazines  and  the  sea  in 
a  direct  line  is  supposed  to  be  pro  tempore  the 
property  of  the  captain,  he  can  thus  convey  the 
kidnapped  slaves  onboard,  without  even  the  chiefs- 
being  able  to  interfere.     The  captains,  instead  of 
refusing  with  indignation  to  become  accessary  to 
these  horrible  violations  of  all  rights,  commonly 
encourage  them,   as  a  means  of  more  speedily 
completing  their  cargoes  at  a  less  expense ;  for  a 
kidnapped  negro,  costing  nothing,  is  sold  at  a  re* 
duced  price. 

The  negro  slave  merchants  are  of  three  classes. 
First,  those  who  have  a  chain  of  correspondence 
between  the  coast  and  the  interior.  The  slaves 
thu^  procured  are  passed  on  from  merchant  to 
merchant,  and  are  often  sold  and  bought  four  or 
five  times  before  they  reach  the  European  market. 
The  second  class  are  those  who  travel  in  the 
interior,  to  pick  up  such  slaves  as  fall  in  their 
way.  The  third,  those  who  ascend  the  rivers  in 
canoes  well  armed,  and  Sf ith  fifty  to  sixty  men. 
Most  of  these  merchants  trade  on  their  own  ac- 
count, 


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THE  WEST   COAST   OF  AFRICA.  481 

count,  but  those  who  are  too  poor  become  the    ^^ 
agents  or  brokers  of  the  Europeans,  who  advance 
them  a  certain  quantity  of  goods,  for  which  they 
leave  some  of  their  relatives  as  hostages. 

The  Europeans  receive  the  slaves  in,  different 
manners  on  the  different  parts  of  the  coast.  In 
the  Senegal,  Gambia,  and  Sierra  Leone,  the  ves- 
sels nm  up  to  a  secure  anchprage,  from  whence 
they  send  their  boats  well  armed  to  all  the  villages 
on  their  banks,  firing  muskets,  or  beating  a  drum, ' 
as  a  signal  that  they  want  to  purchase  slaves. 

On  the'  Grain  coast,  when  a  ship  appears  the 
merchants  who  have  slaves  to  dispose  of  light 
fires,  and  the  vessel  sends  her  boats  on  shore  and* 
purchases  the  slaves  immediately.  This,  however, 
is  the  most  tedious  way  of  procuring  a  cargo,  for 
the  merchants  seldom  bring  more  than  half  a 
dozen  slaves  for  sale  at  a  time,  while  on  the  Gold 
coast  they  bring  whole  troops  to  the  beach. 

There  are  different  methods  of  bringing  slaves 
to  the  markets.  Sometimes  the  merchants  drive 
thirty  or  forty  of  them  before  them,  well  fastened 
together  with  leather  thongs,  three  or  four  feet 
long,  round  their  necks,  and  each  carries  on  his 
head  a  sack  of  com,  or  an  elephant's  tooth,  or, 
where  water  is  expected  not  to  be  met  with,  they 
cJblige  them  to  carry  a  sufficiency  in  leather  bags. 
Those  who  go  on  cheerfully  are  not  tied,  and  live 
with  the  merchants  as  companions ;  those  who 
shew  any  appearance  of  resistance  have  their  arms 
tied  so  tightly  behind  their  backs,  as  to  stop  the 
circulation,  and  are  often  two  or  three  days  before 

^OL.  ly.  2  1  they 


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48S  MARITIME  GEOGRAFHT. 

»^|^  they  regain  the  use  of  them.  For  those  who  are? 
"^  most  refractory  they  have  a  stiH  more  secure  me- 
thod ;  they  get  a  long  ):)ranch  of  a  tree,  with  a 
natural  fork  at  the  end  like  our  haymakers'  pitch- 
.  fork,  just  large  enough  to  receive  the  neck^  on 
which  it  is  placed,  and  secured  behind  with  an 
iron  bolt ;  a  merchant  takes  the  end  of  the  fork 
and  walks  before,  the  slave  being  obliged  U>  fol- 
low, unless  he  chooses  to  be  strangled,  which 
is  always  in  the  merchant's  power,  by  the  purchase 
the  length  of  the  fork  gives  him.  At  night  the 
end  of  the  fork  is  fastened  to  a  tree,  and  the 
wretch  is  as  secure  as  in  the  closest  prison. 

When  a  slave  is  presented  for  sale,  the  surgeon, 
in  the  presence  of  the  captain,  surveys  him ;  and 
no  farrier  or  horse  dealer  ever  more  strictly  exa- 
mines a  horse,  not  a  single  part  of  the  human 
machine  escaping  his  notice.  The  i'oguery  of  the 
slave  traders  indeed  makes  this  strict  examination 
necessary,  for  they  have  various  means  of  dis- 
guising old  and  diseased  slaves,  and  passing  them 
off  for  young  and  healthy ;  but  however  necessary 
it  may  be,  it  is  most  disgusting  to  a  person  who 
has  not  lost  all  sense  of  delicacy,  and  is  too  often, 
especially  with  females,  carried  to  a  degi'ee  of  un- 
necessary brutality. 

If  the  slave  on  examination  is  found  merchant- 
able, the  price  is  agreed  on  between  the  broker 
and  the  captain.  The  merchandize  is  delivered  \xi 
the  formen  who  delivers  it  to  the  merchant ;  and 
the  latter,  after  strictly  examining  it  to  see  it  is 
not  damaged,  carries  it. off  into  the  woods,  or  to 

the 


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THE  WEST  COAST  OF  AFRICA.  4SS 

ihi  broker's  habitation,  to  have  a  cabal  and  drink    '^f^^ 
brandy.  — 

The  slaves  who  arrive  at  the  markets  in  the 
evening  are  not  shipped  till  next  day,  and  the 
intervening  night  is  generally  past  in  tears,  la* 
mentations^  and  despair.  The  wretched  slave, 
about  to  quit  his  country,  his  wife,  his  children 
for  ever,  sees  iii  the  unlimited  ocean,  which  per- 
haps is  now  first  kilown  to  him,  an  uncertain  futu- 
rity, calculated  only  to  excite  terror.  Many  of 
them  believe  that  they  have  only  to  expect  to  be 
devoured  the  moment  they  arrive  at  the  ships,  • 
and  even  if  a  captain,  more  humane  than  usual^ 
endeavours  to  tranquilize  them,  by  caresses  and 
good  food,  they  conceive  they  are  only  thus  taken 
care  of  .to  prevent  their  wasting,  and  to  be  better 
eating.  The  women  are  generally  much  more 
easily  consoled  than  the  men.  There  is  in  the  sex 
an  internal  conviction  that  their  lives  are  not  in 
danger  from  the  other  j  in  the  most  cruel  moment 
of  a  new-bom  slavery  they  forget  not  the  power 
of  their  charms,  and  often  the  physical  sentiment 
which  usurps  the  name  of  love  succeeds  in  calm- 
ing their  fears. 

When  the  cargo  is  completed  the  drum  is  beat, 
to  advertise  the  brokers  to  attend  to  receive  their 
perquisites,  and  this  business  is  seldom  finished 
without  a  dispute.  It  often  happens  that  a  broker 
has  immediate  occasion  for  a  greater  advance  in 
merchandize  than  a  captain  is  willingito  grant 
without  security  ;  in  this  case  it  is  usual  to  give  a 
hostage  for  the  repayment,  and  this  hostage  is 

2  I  2  either 


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484  MABITIME  GS06RAPHT. 

Aesjjte    either  the  relation,  the  friend,  or  the  vassal  of  the 
broker.    If  on  the   departure  of  the  vessel   the 
broker  cannot  repay  the  advance,  and  withdraw 
his  hostage,    or  substitute  another  slave  in  his 
room,  he  inevitably  makes  a  voyage  to  the  West- 
Indies.     In  vain  the  broker  supplicates,  in  vain 
he  de^res  the  captain  to  deduct  the  amount  of  liis 
salary  ;  the  answer  is  ready :  "  either  I  don't  owe 
you  so  much,  or  if  I  do  I  don't  choose  to  return 
your  hostage,  by  retaining  his  value  in  merchan* 
dize,  for  in  that  case  I  should  have  merchandize 
tp  carry  away,  but  it  is  slaves  not  goods  I  want.'* 
The  broker  has  no  resource  but  to  endeavour  to 
borrow  a  slave  from  one  of  the  captains  whose 
cargo  is  not  completed,  and  whom  he  exchanges 
for  the  hostage.  This  latter  by  this  exchange  is  in 
the  same  predicament  with  the  second  captain  as 
with  the  first,  and  he  is  thus  probably  transferred 
through  half  a  dozen  ships,  before  the  broker  is 
able  to  piu*chase  a  slave  to  redeem  him  finally ; 
and  it  is  not  uncommon  for  hostages  to  die  of  the 
scurvy,  by  being  tlius  long  retained  on  board 
ship.     At  last  the  accounts  are  finally  closed,  and 
the   ship  sets  sail  ;    let  us  now  accompany  the 
wretd>ed  slaVe  oii  his  passage. 

The  between  decks  are  formed  into  an  apart- 
ment named  the  slave  room,  and  here  the  slaves 
sleep  on  the  bare  planks,  or,  as  a  writer  says, 
with  no  other  bed  than  their  fat  Air  and  light 
is  admitte^l  into  this  apartment  by  a  hatchway  on 
the  upper  deck,  Covered  with  a  grating.  On  the 
fprecastle  is  an  apartment  for  the  sick.     It  is  the 

general 


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THE  WEST   COAST  OF  AFRICA.  485 

general  custom  to  attach  the  strongest  men,  two  ^^^ 
and  two,  by  a  bar  or  chain  fastened  round  the 
right  leg  of  one  and  the  left  of  the  other, 
or  else  they  are  separately  ironed;  and  in  this 
case,  when  they  are  brought  on  deck,  where  they 
remain  in  fine  weather  from  eight  o^dock  till  four 
pr  five,  a  chain  is  rove  through  forty  or  fifty  of 
'  their  rings,  one  end  of  which  is  fixed  to  the  deck^ 
and  the  other  fastened  with  a  padlock.  Each 
slave  has  his  number  engraved  on  a  bit  of  lead, 
and  a  spoon  hung  on  his  neck ;  these,  with  the 
pipe,  for  they  are  allowed  a  small  quantity  of  to- 
bacco, constitute  their  whole  dress  and  prc^erty. 
Their  daily  food  consists  of  two  meals  of  boiled 
beans,  seasoned  with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper, 
and  this  diet,  all  frugal  as  it  is,  with  water  only 
to  drink,  is  said  to  be  su£Scient  to  keep .  them  in 
health  and  flesh ;  sometimes  they  also  giv6  them 
B,  meal  of  rice  or  ysms.  To  give  them  some  em- 
ployment, a  large  quantity  of  the  leaves  of  the 
Bra|)  palm  are  taken  on  board,  with  which  they 
make  hats  and  baskets  for  the  seamen,  and  receive 
in  return  a  morsel  of  biscuit  or  a  drop  of  brandy. 
As  a  preventive  of  melancholy,  apd  its  atten^ 
dant  scurvy,  they  are  ,obliged  to  dance  and  sing 
for  a  stated  time  twice  a  day. 

Immediately  on  the  surival  of  a  slave  ship  in 
the  islands,  the  negroes  are  well  washed  and 
rubbed  with  oil  of  palma  christi^  to  make  them 
^pple  as  well  as  to  give  their  skins  a  glos^.  black, 
jwhich  is  esteemed  a  sign  of  health  and  vigour  as 
well'  as  of  beauty.     These  preparations  finished 

2  I  ^  the 


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486  MARITiME  G£OGRAPHT. 

the  slaves  are  landed,  and  their  sale  is  announced 
by  tlie  public  criers.  There  are  three  manners  erf 
disposing  of  them,  by  private  sale,  by  auction,  and 
by  lot.  In  die  fiiat  the  purchaser  examines  the 
naked  slave  as  scrupulously  as  the  surgeon  did  on 
the  coast,  and  a  stranger  is  often  both  astonished 
and  disgusted  at  seeing  a  creole  lady  thus  em- 
ployed and  calculating  the  numerous  progeny  the 
manly  appearance  of  the  negro  promises.  When 
there  is  not  private  sale  sufficient  for  the  cargo^ 
the  remaining  negroes,  and  tlK)se  who  are  sick  or 
feeble,  are  sold  by  auction  to  the  highest  bidder, 
and  the  two  latter  are  usually  purchased  by  the 
surgeons  or  Jews  on  speculation,  who  afterwards 
make  fortunes  by  their  cure.  The  sale  by  lot  is 
the  most  expeditious,  but  also  the  most  cruel,  as 
by  it  the  nearest  relations  are  often  separated. 
The  slaves  are  assembled  in  a  large  court,  and  the 
time  of  their  sale  is  announced  by  the  crier.  When 
this  moment  arrives  the  gates  are  thrown  open, 
the  crowd  of  purchasers  run  in,  some  with  their 
marks  on  a  piece  of  cord  which  they  tie  round  the 
arms  of  as  many  negroes  as  they  can  come  at, 
whife  others  endeavour  to  encircle  as  many  as 
they  can  with  a  cord  or  handkerchiefs  tied  toge- 
ther. Each  purchaser  then  separates  the  negroes 
he  has  thbs  taken  possession  of,  and  agrees  with 
the  captain  for  their  price,  or  else  this  price  is 
previously  regulated,  at  so  much  a  head,  good 
and  bad,  and  then  it  is  a  kind  of  lottery  in  which 
some  gain  valuable  piizes  and  others  almost 
l)lanks»    As  soon  as  the  bargain  is  concluded  the 

piucbaser 


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THE  WEST  COAST  OF  AFRICA.       487 

purchaser  takes  away  his  slaves,  and  immediately 
brands  them ;  the  skin  being  first  rubbed  with  oil 
and  an  oiled  paper  put  over  it,  a  silver  instnmient 
with  the  initials  of  the  owner  is  heated  and  lightly 
applied  on  the  paper,  which  produces  a  mark  that 
never  effaces. 

The  new  negroes  are  mixed  with  the  old  ones, 
in  order  to  acquire  the  knowledge  of  their  duty ; 
and  the  interest  of  the  planter  generally  prevents 
them  from  being  immediately  put  to  hard  labour^ 
which  would  not  only  injure  their  health,  gene- 
rally  weak,  after  the  miseries  of  their  passage, 
but  would  often  produce  despondency  and  suicide; 
hence  they  are  gradually  trained  to  labour,  and 
when  their  daily  task  is  finished,,  the  rest  of  their 
time  is  their  own.  Some  owners  find  it  more  pro- 
'  fitable,  and  certainly  it  is  more  humane,  to  con- . 
tinue  task  work  even  after  they  are  seasoned, 
while  others  oblige  them  to  work  from  sun-rise  to 
sun-set,  with  only  an  interval  of  repose  from  noon 
till  two  o'clock.  The  whole  of  Sunday  is  at  their 
own  disposal. 

The  food  supplied  the  field  negroes  by  their 
owners  is  confined  to  maize  and  a  small  quantity 
of  salt-meat  or  herrings ;  but  in  general  each  is 
granted  a  small  piece  of  ground  to  raise  vegeta- 
bles, and  many  also  breed  hogs  and  fowls,  both  for 
^eir  own  use  and  for  sale. 

The  cruel  corporeal  punishment  which  the 
davea  too  often  suffer  from  the  mere  caprice  of 
tbeir  inhuman  owners  is  shocking  to  humanity* 

S  I  4  The 


77^  CtuM 


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488  MARITIME  GEOGRAPHY. 

^v^  the  wretch  is  laid  on  his  belly  on  the  ground,  his 
arms  and  legs  firmly  attached  to  pickets  in  the 
form  of  a  St  Andrew's  cross.  Tlie  executioner 
with  a  tremendous  long  whip,  the  lash  of  cow*s 
hide,  strikes  him  on  the  back :  at  every  cut  long 
pieces  of  flesh  are  taken  out,  and  the  blood 
streams  from  the  wound,  while  the  master  super- 
intends the  punishment  and  urges  the  hand  of  the 
executioner* 

Even  pregnant  women  are  not  exempt  frona 
this  cruel  punishment ;  and  it  is  asserted  that  in 
this  case  a  cavity  is  formed  in  the  ground  to  re^ 
ceive  the  victim*s*burthen. 

It  has  been  but  too  justly  remarked,  that  the 
white  Creole  females  are  more  inexorably  cruel  to 
their  slaves  than  the  men.  The  unfortunate 
wretch  who  does  not  fly  to  obey  their  capricious 
orders,  or  who  cannot  divine  their  wishes  by  their 
gestures,  instantly  feels  the  lash  of  the  whip 
wielded  by  a  fertiale  fury.  What  particularly  dis- 
tinguishes the  Creole  from  the  European  in  the 
treatment  of  their  slaves,  is  that  the  latter  re- 
quires to  be  worked  up  to  a  passion  before  he 
commands  punishment,  while  the  former  directs 
its  infliction  with  the  greatest  composure,  and 
without  seeming  to  feel  the  least  angry  emotion. 
Tliis  cool-blooded  inhumanity  is  the  necessary 
consequence  of  imitation  and  neglected  educati<Hi« 
The  young  Creole,  habituated  to  the  sight  of 
cruelties,  torments  the  slaves  that  surround  him 
for  mere  amusement,   until  by  constant  habit, 

cruelty 


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Tratie. 


THE  WEST  COAST  OF  AFRICA.  489 

iaiielty  becomes  a  part  of  his  nature, .  and  he    ^^;^j;" 
never  considers,  because  he  has  never  been  taught, 
that  a  negro  is  his  fellow  creature. 

In  their  loves  alone  do  the  negroes  enjoy  inde>* 
jpendence  :  and  in  this  respect  they  are  more  free 
than  their  tyrants ;  their  actions  being  unchecked 
by  any  of  those  customs  or   religious   precepts 
which  bind  the  latter,    they  unite,  separate,  re- 
unite, again  separate  and  change  according  to  the 
impulse  of  passion,  without  either  feeling  remorse 
or  shame.     This  passion  also  supports  them  under 
all  the  horrors  of  slavery,  and  the  fatigue  of  the 
day  is  forgotten  in  the  prospect  of  the  night's 
enjoyment,  or  labour  cheered  by  impromptu  love 
songs.    The  negro's   attention  to  his  temporary 
mistress  is  extreme ;  the  profits  of  his  Sunday's 
labour,  and  all  his  other  little  savings,  are  expended 
to  adorn  her.     If  she  lives  at  a  distance,  which  is 
usually  the  case,  when  the  toil  of  the  day  is  over, 
he  gaily  trudges  to  her  hut,  and  is  back  before  the 
hour  of  returning  labour.     Although  their  masters 
usually  encourage  the'  connection  between  their 
own  slaves,  and  to  seek  partners  at  home,  they 
almost  universally  prefer  the  distant  intrigue,  which 
tifiers  a  continual  variety  of  difficulties  and  inter- 
esting incidents,  seeming  forcibly  to  feel,  that 

'*  Love,  light  as  air,  at  sight  of  human  ties. 
Spreads  his  light  wings,  and  in  a  moment  flies." 

With  r^pect  to  the  female  slaves,  their  owners 
never  attempt  to  restrain  or  regulate  their  amours. 
In  the  towns,  in  particular,  where  they  areohliged  to 

be 


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490  MAEITIAIE  GEOGRAPHY. 

be  at  iricre  expense  in  clothing  them,  they  usually 
get  rid  of  this  burden  by  favouring  their  connection 
with  Europeans,  Even  the  mistress  of  the  house 
often  facilitates  their  meeting,  and  from  the  pre* 
sents  the  slave  receives  she  not  only  clothes  her- 
self but  usually  pays  her  owner  a  weekly  stipend. 

Nothing  can  be  more  ludicrous  than  the  Sunday 
dress  of  a  negro  woman  thus  kept  :it  is  usually 
composed  of  a  gown  of  the  most  gaudy  printed 
cotton,  with  a  sweeping  train,  an  Indian  handker- 
chief fcdded  round  the  head,  white  gloves,  and  rose- 
coloured  shoes,* 


In  the  nriddle  of  the  last  century  104,000  slaves 
were  carried  from  Africa  annually  in  the  following 
proportions : 

The  English  took  off 60,000 

French. ...    .    24,000 

Dutch.. 11,000 

Portuguese 8,000 

Danes 1,000 


104,000 

By 

•  The  above  obserratlons  are,  however,  intended  to  describe  the  treat- 
ment of  slaves  in  the  English  and  French  colonies.  The  sitoatiou  of  those 
in  the  Spanish  colonies  differ  in  many  respects,  the  Spaniards  being  modi 
more  familiar  with  their  slaves  than  any  other  nation.  The  IV>rtnguese  also 
treat  their  slaves  with  comparative  humanity ;  and  by  a  royal  decree,  the 
'teew  negroes  were  to  be  imoMdiately  instracted  in  Chriittanity,  and  the 
term  of  their  slavery  was  to  be  confined  to  ten  years.  The  latter  part  of  th^ 
decree  has,  however,  never  received  its  execution,  and  the  compliance  wit)^ 
thetot  partiscoiifizied  to  a  ridioOoits  Idnd  of  baptlw  oi  jMMf, 


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THE  VTEST   COAST  OF  AFRICA.  491 

By  the  accounts  laid  before  parliament  in  1788, 
the  annual  export  was  then  reduced  to  74,000,  as 
follows : 

The  English  took  off S6,000 

French , . .  18,000 

Portuguese  .  • ,    • 12,000 

Dutch 4,000 

Danes 2,000 

Anglo-Americans   .,♦•..•.   2,000 

74,000 

TTie  districts  of  Africa  from  whence  these  74,000 
flaves  were  taken,  were 

from  the  Gambia 700-\ 

Isles  de  Los,  Rio  Pongo,  &c.. .    1,500  >£l6 
Sierra  Leone  to  Cape  Monte. .   2,000/ 


}^15 


Cape  Monte  to  Cape  Palmas  .   3,000 
Cape  Palmas  to  Cape  Apollonia  1,000 

Gold  Coast , 10,000 

Queta  and  Popo 1,000 

Whidah 4,500 

Ports  Nova  Epea  and  Bedagry  3,500. 

Lagos  and  Benin 8,500 — j£'14 

Calebars  and  Cameron  ......  21,500—^12 

Gabon,  Loango,  Malemba  and  1 

Benda j  14,500 

Majumba,  Amboin  and  Mi-1       ^^ 

tomba J    ^'"*^ 

Congo  and  Benguela 7,000 


74,000 

Of 


7le9l«M 
Tradu 


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49S  MARITIME  OEOGRAFHT. 

"^riir  Of  the  36,000  slaves  taken  off  by  the  English 
55,000  were  conveyed  to  the  British  West  Indies, 
of  whom  15,000  were  sold  to  the  planters,  and 
10,000  exported  to  foreign  colonies,  whither  was 
also  conveyed  direct  from  the  coast  of  Africa  the 
remaining  11,000. 

The  British  slave  trade  employed  from  100  to 
170  ships,  in  the  following  proportion : 

Lomlon.  DristoL         Liverpool.  Total. 

1787 2G. . 22 73 121 

1798 8 3 143 164 

1804 18 3 126 147 

The  supposed  average  loss  on  the  passage  to  the 
West  Indies,  was  one  in  twenty  in  the  qtiickest 
passages,  but  in  long  ones  the  mortality  was  gene- 
rally double  ;  so  that,  in  the  latter  case,  thirty-four 
negroes  were  carried  off,  when,  according  to  cal- 
culation^  one  only  would  have  died  in  the  ordinary 
coui'se  of  nature. 

One  half  of  those  landed  in  the  colonies  were 
calculated  to  die  before  the  end  of  the  third  year, 
and  not  more  than  one  in  ten  of  the  original  num- 
ber exported  from  Africa  are  supposed  to  propa- 
gate in  the  colonies. 

The  slave  trade,  as  we  have  seen,  had  existed  for 
two  centuries,  before  it  was  discovered  to  be  con- 
trary to  the  principles  of  religion  and  the  rights  of 
man,  as  well  as  to  sound  policy.  At  length  the 
sect  of  Quakers,  whose  first  principle  is  the  natural 
equality  of  all  men,  and  whose  doctrine  is  universal 
charity,  first  pleaded  the  cause  of  the  suffering 
Africans  in  1727>  and  not  only  pleaded  for  them, 

but 


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THE  WEST   COAST   OF  AFRICA.  49S 

but  in  1754  gave  freedom  to  all  those  tiiey  po$« 
sessed  in  the  North  American  colonies. 

John  Woolman  and  Anthony  Benezel,  two  of 
this  sect,  may  be  considered  as  the  apostles  of  the 
liberty  of  the  Negroes,  both  by  their  writings  and 
example.  The  example  set  by  the  Quakers  of 
North  America  roused  the  dormant  feelings  of  the 
people  of  England :  the  slave  trade  became  a  sub^ 
ject  of  general  conversation,  and  of  general  in- 
terest, and  an  association  of  several  philanthropists 
was  formed  to  urge,  by  eveiy  possible  means,  the 
abolition  of  this  trade  j  at  the  head  of  which  was 
Mr.  Granville  Sharp,  the  Las  Casas  of  tlie  negroes : 
this  degraded  race  had  at  tlie  same  time  found 
powerful  advocates  in  France,  in  Montesquieu, 
Raynal  and  others.  The  press  now  teemed  with 
pamphlets  on  both  sides  the  question,  and  petitions 
end  counter  petitions  were  presented  to  parlia- 
ment by  the  friends  of  the  negroes,  and  by  the 
persons  interested  in  the  continuation  of  the  trade. 

In  consequence  of  these  contradictory  opinions, 
a  committee  of  the  privy  council  was  appointed 
to  inquire  into  the  facts  stated  by  both  parties. 
An  immense  number  of  persons  were  examined, 
and  in  consequence  of  their  evidence,  Mr.  Pitt, 
on  the  9th  of  May  I786,  moved  in  the  House  of 
Commons,  for  taking  the  circumstances  of  th^ 
slave  trade  into  consideration,  which  was  unfmi- 
mously  carried;  and  on  the  Slst  of  the  sam^ 
month  the  subject  vras  discussed,  and  Sir  William 
Dolben  brought  in  a  bill  for  the  iregulation  of  :thQ 
t^e,  which  was  finally  passjed.     By  this  bill  var 

rious 


Trade, 


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494  MARITIME  GEOORAPRT. 

rious.  r^ulations  respecting  the  health  and  treat' 
'         ment  of  slaves  was  prescribed,  and  the  number  erf 
slaves  in  a  ship  was  limitted  according  to  her 
burden,  allowing  only  one  slave  for  every  ton. 

The  eyes  of  the  people  of  England  now  began  to 
be  opened  to  the  impolicy  of  this  traffic,  of  which 
the  iniquity  was  also  almost  universally  admitted^ 
and  the  public  voice  at  last  obliged  parliament,  in 
I8O6,  to  pass  an  act,  prohibiting  the  British  trade 
in  slaves  to  foreign  settlements,  which  reduced 
the  export  from  Africa  20,000.  In  the  same  ses* 
sion  a  resolution  passed  the  Commons,  declaring 
the  slave  trade  to  be  contrary  to'  the  principles  of 
Justice^  humanity  f  and  sound  policy  ;  and  engagiii^ 
themselves  to  institute  measures  for  its  total  and 
universal  abolition.  The  Lords  concurring  in  these 
sentiments,  an  address  was  presented  to  his  Ma* 
jesty,  praying  him  to  use  his  influence  with  foreign 
powers  for  tliis  abolition.  In  1807  the  fnenda  of 
the  abolition  carried  their  grand  object,  in  pro* 
curing  the  solemn  abcdition  of  the  British  slave 
trade  by  an  act  of  the  l^islature. 


At  the  same  time  that  the  friends  of  the  negroes 
were  exerting  every  means  for  the  abolition  of  the 
dave  trade,  they  also  contemplated  the  future  aboh- 
tion  of  slavery  itself,  by  the  civilization  of  the  Afii- 
cans  and  the  improvement  of  their  country.  On  this 
idea  an  association  was  formed,  under  the  direction 
of  Messrs.  Granville  Sharp  and  Wilberforce,  for 
the  purpose  of  establishing  an  agricultural  Jree 

colony 


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THB.  WEflff  COAST  OF  AFRICA.  4^ 

colony  in  Afirica,  and  the  society  received  a  char-  ^$f^ 
ter  for  thirty-one  years.  A  large  subscription 
being  rapidly  raised*  and  the  Sierra  Leone  river 
fixed  on  as  the  place  of  establishment,  in  1791 
the  society  caused  1,000  Maroon  negroes  to  be 
conveyed  thither  from  Nova  Scotia,t  who  were  to 
act  as  servants  to  the  white  settlers  for  a  limited 
period,  and  then  to  receive  grants  of  lands  in 
perpetuity.  The  form  of  government  was  a  pro- 
totype of  the  British  constitution,  and  the  triad  by 
jury  was  constituted  the  palladium  of  the  libejfy 
of  the  colonists. 

The  directors  of  this  laudable  establishment, 
however,  in  seeking  after  theoretical  perfection, 
overlooked  the  practicable  means  of  arriving  at 
their  end,  and  seem  to  have  forgpt,  that  the  first 
object  was  to  make  themselves  intimately  ac- 
quainted with  the  dispositions  of  the  people  they 
proposed  to  civilize.  This  grand  error,  united  to 
distracted  councils  and  to  the  bad  selection  of  the 
colonists,  prevented  the  fruition  of  the  high  formed 
expectations  of  the  projectors,  added  to  which,  in 
1794,  the  colony  was  pillaged  in  the  most  wanton 
manner  by  a  French  squadron,  and  in  1800  an 
insurrection  of  the  free  blacks  brought  it  to  the 
verge  of  destruction ;  and  though  this  storm  was 
layed,  by  the  fortunate  arrival  of  troops,  the 
colony  has  since  languished  out  a  kind  of  negative 
existence,  from  the  continu^ice  of  the  mistaken 

measures 

»  It  dosed  in  t792,  with  the  amount  of  £243,000. 

t  Thoe  negroes  bad  been  transported  i^m  St.  Vincents. 


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496  ^MARITIME   GEOGEAPHT. 

Vf^  measures  of  the  society,  which  by  ali^iating  the 
natives^  has  prevented  their  adopting  any  of  the 
improvements  in  agriculture  or  the  mechanic  arts, 
which  it  was  the  intention  of  the  society  to  intro- 
duce* 

In  1792>  a  private  society  formed  in  London, 
for  the  purpose  of  civilizing  the  negroes  by  com- 
merce and  agriculture,  formed  a  settlement  on 
Ijie  island  of  Bulam  one  of  the  Bissagos,  but  from 
the  bad  selection  of  the  colonists  the  attempt 
entirely  failed.  Of  275  persons,  189  returned  to 
England  in  the  ships  that  carried  them  out,  dis- 
gusted  with  the  difficulties  they  met  or  feared: 
the  eighty-six  that  remained,  with  their  persevering 
governor,  Captain  Beaver  of  the  royal  navy,  were 
reduced  by  death  and  desertions  to  six,  when  the 
island  was  evacuated  in  October  1793. 

On  the  abolition  of  the  slave  trade  in  1807, 
another  society  for  the  improvement  of  Africa, 
and  the  abolition  of  slavery,  was  instituted  in 
England,  and  took  the  name  of  the'  African  In- 
stitution, Setting  out  on  different  principles  from 
those  of  the  Sierra  Leone  Company,  this  institu- 
tion disclaimed  all  projects  of  a  colonial  or  com- 
mercial nature,  as  well  as  all  schemes  of  religious 
mission,  confining  itself  entirely  to  the  introduc- 
tion of  the  arts  of  civilized  life  among  the  n^roes, 
and  to  watching  over  the  strict  execution  of  the 
i^bolition  laws;  and  for  these  purposes  a  subscrip- 
tion was  opened. 

In  1808,  the  institution  sent  out  three  African 
youths  who  had  been  educated  in  England^  and 

were 


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fHE  WB8T  COAST  OF  AFRICA.       497 

were  well  fitted  for  instructing  their  countrymen, 
in  several  arts  j  and  the  governor  of  Sierra  Leone 
received  directions  to  assist  them  in  the  establish- 
ment of  schools.  A  large  quantity  of  cotton  seed 
'  was  aiso  sent  out,  which  was  sown,  and  thrived  so 
well  that  in  1809,  10,000  lbs.  of  cotton  were  sent 
to  Engbnd,  the  produce  of  the  island  of  Tassa,  in 
the  river  of  Sierra  Leone  ;  and  in  the  same  year 
a  quantity  of  rice  was  exported  to  the  West  Indies 
from  the  same  river. 


Cape  Spartel,  the  north-west  point  of  Africa  jmotpcc., 
at  the  entrance  of  the  Strait  of  Gibraltar,  is  a 
high  promontory,  with  a  rock  off  its  extremity, 
which  sheltei*s  a  bay  on  the  south  of  the  Cape 
from  northerly  winds;  From  the  Ceape  to  ArziUa 
the  coast  is  low  and  flat,  with  a  sandy  beach,  and 
hills  inland;  In  this  space  are  Jeremie  Bay,  two 
leagues  south  of  Cape  SparteL  Almadronis  Bay 
has  good  anchorage  in  twelve  and  thirteen  fathoms, 
and  sheltered  from  the  north  and  east,  but  dan- 
gerous with  south  and  west  winds.  ArziUa  is  on 
a  small  creek  that  only  admits  boats  at  high  water, 
and  before  which  are  several  rocks.  It  formerly 
was  a  Portuguese  establishment,  and  has  a  large 
castle  entirely  in  ruins.  It  is  now  only  inhabited 
by  about  1,000  Moors  and  Jews. 

£1  Araiche  (the  floWfer^garden)  on  the  LuccoSjor 
El-Kbos^wmding),  thought  to  be  t^ancient  Lucus; 
was  possessed  by  the  Spaniards  from  I6l0  to  1689 
J    roL.iu    ,  2  K  when 


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mh;^.    when  it  WA8  tiken  by  th«  Moors^     It  stiU  si 

the  vestige  of  £luix)pea]i  superiority^  tbe  housea 
bmag  well  builtt  and  the  streeU^  paved  i  itk  dt^ 
fi^akded  hy  a  fort  and  two  b^Ateries  in  tokniUe 
Ofd^r,  and  haa  3^000  inhabitants.  The  moudi 
f^tbe  mer  is  erossed  by  a  bar.  ^^ch  admtBCHdjr 
irflB9«^  of  100  tonst  and  which  ev^  day  accur 
imdate«i  as  do  a&  th^  othar  bar^  of  the  liwers  an 
thw  coast;,  nevertheless  £1  Araiehe  has  the  best 
poit,  and  here  the  Morocco  gaUiesa^er^pwred,^ 

Between  El  Araiehe  and  Mamora,  the  coast  is 
diversified  by  hills^  vallies^  forests,  and  lakes,  some 
of  which  latter  are  eight  to  ten  leagues  in  extent, 
and  abound  with  water  fowl  and  eela.  The  oaly 
i^habit^jDta  $fe  a  few  poor  fishermen, 

Majorat  w  Mebedtima,  ia  at  the  oiotith  of  the 
Seboo,  ^  largeit  rivev  of  West  Barbaiy*  whack 
has  its  xm  in  a  piece  of  water  a^  the  foot  of  Atlas» 
and  abound^  in  a  delicate  species  of  salnoo,  called 
^kbel  Tlie  entrance  of  the  river  b  rendered 
di^uH  by  fihifling  sands,  between  which  the 
greatest  dept^  at  spdf^g  tidea  ia  fifteen  &et«  Hmt 
OMra  waa  suqcetsively  possessed  by  the  Fofftuguast 
and  Spaniards,  and  was  sorroimded  by  walla  novi 
entirely  rwned,  tbe  only  defence  bd^  a  batfaarjr 
on  the  beach.  Forty  Moorish  families  cowljtute 
its  present  inhabitaats*  who  subsist  by  isimg  fiv 
shads,  which  are  very  ^undmt  from  Norembtc  to 
March. 

Si«At  or  3Ati;.]^  six  leagjties  south  of  Miuinra,^ 
has  15,000  ii4>«t^ita»t9>  mA  inclndM  two  tcnna*^ 
the  Qld.  Toiwn»  or  Sallee  projper>  beii^  qb,^  tha 

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THE  WXST  COAftT  OF  ATBICA.  401 

Bortit  baiik  of  the  river  Burr<^<^  at  the  jonetion 
of  the  Wiaroo;  and  the  new  om,  o^led  Bidiat» 
OB  the  south  bank.  These  towns  were  fimnedy 
iiiciependeQty  and  were  the  rende£iK>i}8  of  the  oele* 
brated  Sallee  Rovers^  but  the  Empevor  of  Moroc- 
co, Sids  Mahomet,  sobdued  tbem  and  |mt  an  end 
to  their  piracy^  The  two  towns  are  protected 
by  an  old  castle  mounting  twenty  gone,  aasid  by  a 
Tedoubt  at  the  month  of  the  river ;  the  entimudit 
of  this  latter  is  but  ei^ty  yards  broa^  and  Itta 
but  five  feet  at  low  water,  and  fifteen  to  sUteea 
feet  in  the  sptmgs.  Close  to  the  old  town  is  a 
building  l6o  feet  hi^,  named  Hassan's  Tovov 
of  which  only  the  four  external  waUs  ace  stilttih 
ing.  On  the  north  of  Rabat  is  an  aMieat  town 
waUed  round,  thought  to  be  one  of  those  fbixndied 
by  the  Carthaginians;  it  is  considered  by  the 
Moors  as  sacred  ground,  and  no  Christian  ia]|pet« 
mitted  to  enter  it. 

From  Sallee  to  Fedala  the  coast  is  goneraQy 
ievel ;  between  them  is  El-Mans(Hria»  an  old  and 
ruined  castle.  Fedala  island  is  about  three  mika 
long,  one  broad,  and  very  low ;  en  the  south  it 
is  only  separated  from  the  main  by  a  chamid,  said 
to  be  fordaUe  at  low  water,  though  the  tide  risea 
in  it  seven  and  eight  fathoms,  while  on  the  odier 
parts  of  the  coast  the  greatest  rise  is  only  froit 
two  and*  a  half  to  three  fathoms.  Between  the 
north  end  of  the  island  and  the  main  is^a  good 
i^oad,  on  the  main  shore  of  which  is  the  town  of 
Fedala,  consisting  of  a  few  wretched  huts,  5ttr* 
iTounded  by  ruined  fortifications. 

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500  MAurtiMB  &E0CRAvnr. 

Between  Fedala  and  Cape  Blanco  are  An^s&f 
or  Dei^eyda,  formerly  a  Portuguese  establishinent, 
but  now  dmost  entirely  deserted  ^  it  has  a  good 
road  in  all  winds  bat  N.  W.  Azamore,  also  an- 
ciedtly  possessed  by  the  Portuguese  and  abandon- 
ed in  1610,  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  Omirabih  (forty 
sources),  or  Morbeya ;  it  is  an  insignificant  place 
on  a  hill:  the  bar  of  the  rilrer  only* admits  boats. 
On  a  bay,  near  it,  are  extensive  ruins,  now  called 
Tet,  supposed  to  be  those  of  a  city  (Titus)  found- 
ed by  the  Carthaginians. 

•  Ma^agan,  buik  by  the  Pc^rtuguese  in  1506,  and 
muned  Caste^uReak^  is  caUed  by  the  Moors  El- 
Bmiga^  a  corruption  oi.BvishOj  the*  name  of  a 
vBuyhigh  tower  two  leagues  farther  south ;  it  is 
liow  almost  entirely  in  ruinn  and  des6rt.  It  has  « 
little  pier  haven  for  small  xraft,  but  ships  can  only 
airchor  in  the  bay  two  leagues  off  shore.  The  east 
point  of  this  bay  is  Cape  Azaraore,  fiom  wfaicK 
a  reef  runs  but  a  league. 

'  Cape  Blanco  is  a  high  ^eep  white  cUff,  a  league 
west  of  which  is  Uie  barren  island  Duxakr. 

£1  Voladia  iff  a  deserted  town  between  Cape 
Blanoo  and'  Cape  Cantin:  it.  is  on  a  creek,  and 
near  it  is  said  to  be  a  lagoon,  which  with  little 
labour  might  be  rendered  capable  of  receiving  a 
fleet.  C^pe  Cantin  slopes  towards  the  sea  :  on  its 
extremity  are  ruins,  supposed  to  be  thcise  of  iGpnte^ 
mentioj.ed  by  Leon  Africanus;  and  south  of  it 
the  Golden  Bank»  so  named  from  its  abundance  of 
fish. 

Asfie,  or  Saffee>.  abandoned  by  U^ie.  Portuguese 

*  '  -   .  in 


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THE  TTEar  COAST  OF  AFRICA.  501       • 

itt  1641,  is  a  town  of  12,000  inhabitants,  situated  m^to^ 
between  two  hills,  which  make  it  insufferably  hot 
in  summer,  while  in  winter  it  is  inundated  by  tor- 
rents from  the  mountains ;  it  is  surrounded  by 
very  high  and  thick  walls,  and  before  the  buildt 
11^  of  Mogador  had  considerable  trade. 

The  river  Tensift  rises  in  Atlas,  and.  wadies  the 
knperial  city  of  Morocco,  at  twenty  leagues  from 
the  sea.  This  city  is  very  differently  described  by 
travellers,  Lempriere  telling  us,  that  it  is  a 
wretched  assemblage  of  mud  hovels,  not  contaiof 
ing  above  20,000  inhabitants  ;  while  Jackson  de* 
scribes  the  bouses  as  well  built,  but  concealed 
behind  high  walls,  witli  many  temples  and 
mosques,  the  imperial  palace  built  of  cut  stone, 
ornamented  with  marble,  and  a  population  of 
270,000  souls. 

Mogador,*  or  Suerahy  a  new  town  buiH  in 
1760,  has  a  handsome  appearance  from  the  sea, 
the  houses  being  of  stone,  but  like  all  Maiiometan 
towns,  the  streets,  are  very  narrow ;  it  is  built  on 
a. desert  and  increasing  spit  of  sand  nearly  sur- 
rounded by  the  sea,  has  no  water  but  what  is 
brought  from  half  a  mile  distance,  and  for  ite 
v^fetables  it  is  obliged  to  send  from  four  to 
twelve  miles.  The  port  is  within  a  little  island 
ft  mile  in  circuit,  and  a  quaiter  of  a  mile  from  the 
main  ;^  it  can  only,  receive  small  reseds';  sever^ 
batteries  in  good  order  defend  its  entrance,     It  is 

2k  3  ^  the 

#  NsMoed  (i;om  SiUi^lQKO^l^^oij  ^  *^t^^  saint, 


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50t  XAEITIKE  OSOGRAFHT. 

the  MipQiium  of  the  tfade  of  Morocco^  and  has 
10,000  inhabitants. 

Cape  Tefebdeh  is  a  low  point,  while  Cape  de 
Oeer,  AJhim  of  the  Moors,*  farther  south,  de^ 
ecends  rapidly  from  high  hills.  A  reef  runs  of 
from  it  a  cooBiderable  way,  and  nortli  of  it  twd 
teagueft  is  the  isle  Yard.  Tamara,  an  ioaigni- 
ficant  place  on  a  hill :  Tecuiet  at  t^  month  of  a 
river,  has  an  old  castle;  Santa  Cruz,  Jguadir 
^f  the  Moors,  BehSandan  of  die  Arabs,  £hw 
luerly  a  good  Portuguese  town,  at  present  con- 
tains only  300  inhabitants,  in  a  few  wretched 
huts ;  its  road  is  one  of  the  best  on  lliis  coast, 
and  iJ[>ounds  in  fish,  which  are  taken  and  sent 
into  the  interior  baked. 

Snse  river,  is  one  of  the  moirt  considerable  of 
Morocco,  but  almost  run  dry  by  the  canals  cut 
from  it  for  irrigation ;  it  would  ajqpear,  that  it  was 
formerly  navigable  to  Terodant,  on  whose  eastib 
walls  are  rings  for  vessels  to  make  fast  to.  Seveo- 
teen  leagues  south  of  the  Suze,  Cape  Agulon,  or 
Agulah,  terminates  the  territory  of  Moroocou 
This  extent  of  coast  is  never  visited  by  £uio|iettB 
ships,  though  the  people  of  Suze  are  said  to  be 
well  disposed  to  Europeans,  and  profitable  mer- 
cantile speculations  might  be  carried  on  here. 

The  4^^eign  trade  of  Morocco  is  almost  entire^ 
centered  in  Mogador,  from  iidience  the  eaeporte 
were  in  1804, 

Almonds 

•  Geer  ii  %  native  word,  tignifytog  •*  higli  tyfiDd,**  tfttiotiiig  tbe  flrong 
wind,  wfalcb  ia  usually  experienced  on  thc^rtfa  lide  of  the  cape. 


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THE  Vnsn  «0A8T  Of  ktmCA*  ts^ 

lbs. 

Almonds 600,000  chiefly  to  Holland*  ~ 

Gum  Arabic  ......  300,000  Holland  andEnKlafld. . 

senega  100,000  England. 

— —  sandarik  ....     30,000  England  and  HoUailid. 
Bees  wax S00,000  Leghorn,    MarseiUea, 

Cadiz  and  Usboii. 

Olive  oil H. . .  ^. .     60,000  Holland  and  Lisbon* 

Cow  and  calfskins  120,000  London,  Leghorn,  aftd 

Marseilles. 
Wool.... 100,000  HoUaad    and    Mar* 

eeilles. 
Ostrich  feathers...         500  Londoa. 
Elephants*  teeth...         800  Holland. 
Pomegranite  peeb    50,000  Ditto. 

Dates.. 55,000  London  and  Lisbon. 

Anniseed 6,000  Holland. 

Tdlow 1,500  Teneriffe. 

duZCDS. 

Ooat  skins 130,000  England. 

Besides  gold  dust,  mats,  carpets,  mules,  and 
tninor  articles;  total  value  «£*1 28,000. 

The  imports  in  the  same  year  (including 
jC25,000  in  Spanish  dollars)  amounted  to 
jCl 50,000  in  ship  timber,  prms,  ammunition,  wool- 
ens, Unens,  cottons,  lead,  bar  iron,  hardware, 
tea,  sugar,  spices,  trinkets,  &c.  &c. 

On  the  Coast  of  the  Desert  from  Cape  Agulon  to  co^^^^ot 
Cape  Bojador  there  are  but  two  roads  proper  for      — 
:^ps ;  the  first  before  the  river  Akassa,  which  is 

2  K  4  navigable 


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5(H  MARjLTIME  eEOaRAFHT. 

<3Ni4^^  tAt  navigable  to  Noon,  the  intermediate  depot  of  trade 
between   Mogador   and   Soudan^  the  objects   of 
which  are  gold  dust,  gum  and  wax.    <?ape  Nufi, 
or  Noon,  extends  far  into  the  sea  north  of  the 
Akassa. 

Cape  Juby  is  the  nearest  point  of  Africa  to  the 
Canary  IsljUids ;  to  the  south  of  it  commences  a 
ridge  of  hills,  named  by  the  Portuguese  the 
Matas  de  St.  Yago. 

From  Cape  Bojador  to  the  Angra  dos  Ruivas, 
or  Gurnet's  Bay,  the  coast  is  high  with  a  conspi- 
cuous peak  about  midway.  Cavalos  Bay  is  bound- 
ed on  the  north  by  seven  hummocks ;  it  has  a 
sandy  beach  which  extends  to  Cape  Laguedo,  off 
which  are  many  rocks.  Rio '  del  Oro,  or  Gold 
River,  is  an  inlet  nine  leagues  deep  and  three 
wide  at  the  entrance,  but  decreasing  in  breadth 
till  it  ends  in  an  insignificant  rivulet ;  before  its 
entrance  is  Hern  Island  and  several  shoals.  To  it 
succeeds  the  bay  of  Gonzales  de  Cintro,  then 
that  of  St.  Cyprian,  a  considerable  indentation, 
which  receives  a  large  river.  St.  Ann's  Bay,  ten 
leagues  south  of  Cape  BarbaS;  has  good  anchorage^ 
its  south  point  is  Cape  Corvoeiro. 

The  Bay  of  Arguin  is  a  large  gulf,  of  which 
Cape  Blanco  is  the  north  point.  This  cape  is  a 
round  bluff  headland,  not  easily  distinguished, 
and  suiTounded  by  dangers ;  as  is  tlie  whole  gulf 
from  numerous  shoals  and  islands:  and  what  ren- 
ders it  still  more  to  be  avoided  is,  that  shipwreck 
is  sure  to  be  followed  by  a  long  and  cruel  captivity 
among  the  Moors.    Eight  leagues  east  of  Cape 

Blanco 


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THE  WB8T  COAST  OF  AFRICA.  605 

fiknco  is  Cape  St.  Aan;  and  between  them  a  ^^%^^ 
htge  bay,  in  which  is  French  Island,  and  which 
receives  several  rivulets,  but  the  tide  flowing  into 
tbem,  renders    the  water  unfit  for  use.     Four 
leagues  S.E.  of  Cape  St  Anne  is  Point  Saline,  or 
Cape  Vianne,  and  between  them  a  second  bay; 
near  the  shore  of  which  are  several  salt-pans,  now 
abandoned  by  Europeans.    Off  Cape  Saline  is  a 
small  barren  island,  scarcely  distinguished  from 
the  main  land.     Six  leagues  S.E.  of  Point  Saline 
is  Point  Hofl^  and  between  them  the  coast  forms  a 
third  bay,  in  which  is  the  isle  of  Arguin,  a  league 
from  the  main,  one  league  and  a  half  long  north 
and  south,  and  a  league  broad.     Off  its  west  side 
are  two  barren  islets :  vessels  drawing  sixteen  feet 
may  anchor  within  it.     This  island  is  only  valua- 
ble to  any  European   nation  from  the  facility  it 
affords   of  sharing  in   the    gum  trade.     On  this 
account  it  has  been  successively  occupied  by  the 
Portuguese,  Dutch,  English,   and  French.     Tlie 
Portuguese  first  formed  an  establishment  on  it  in 
1455,  and  retained  it  till  1633,  when  the  Dutch  \ 

took  it,  and  in  their  turn  lost  it  to  the  English  in 
16G5,  but  retook  it  the  next  year.  The  French 
got  possession  of  it  in  I678,  and  destroyed  the 
fortifications  constructed  by  the  Portuguese  and 
Dutch.  In  1685  the  latter  retook  it  under  the 
Prussian  flag,  and  again  fortified  it;  but  in  1721 
it  was  taken  from  them  by  the  French  African 
Company,  and  the  following  year  retaken  by  the 
Dutch  and  Moors,  but  lost  again  to  the  French  in 
1724,  who,  in  1727,  destroyed  the  fortifications, 

and 


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^06  VARmME  GEOGEAPHT. 

and  tranafined  ibe  commerce  of  gum  to  the  Mt- 
tJements  in  the  Sene^.  The  other  tslands  in  fbe 
gulf  are  named  Medina  and  Rat,  foodi  south  of 
Arguin.  All  these  islands,  aikl  the  faaidfis  romid 
tbem^  are  frequented  bj  green  turtle.  ^^ 


St.  John's  River,  thought  to  be  a  branch  <^the 
Senega],  empties  itself  south  of  the  Bay  of  Ar- 
guin.  Cape  Mirick  being  its  south  point.  Its 
banks  are  fertile,  and  on  the  right  are  abundance 
of  gum  trees.  It  is  navigable  for  large  boats  thirty 
leagues.  Before  its  mouth  are  the  islands  Arseri<- 
na,  Same,  Tider,  Ides,  Grin,  and  Gonzana. 
Small  vessels  may  pass  within  all  these  islands,  but 
the  proper  channel  into  the  river  is  between  Tider 
and  Cape  Mirick.  Tindel,  or  Tanit  Bay,  south  of 
St  John^s  River,  has  some  banks  before  it,  leaving 
only  one  channel  at  the  north  extremity  of  the  bay, 
which  is  also  entirely  exposed. 

Portendick,  called  by  the  Moors  Marza  Gioura, 
and  in  the  old  charts  Port  Add^,  is  a  great  trad- 
ing place  for  gum.  It  has  only  a  road  between 
two  banks  of  sand  and  breakers,  on  which  the 
greatest  depth  is  two  &thomsj  and  the  channel 
between  them  is  only  seventy  to  eighty  fathoms 
wide,  but  has  a  depth  of  six  and  eight  fathoms. 
In  the  north  bank  is  also  a  swash,  with  five  fii- 
thorns.  The  anchorage  within  the  banks  is  in  six 
fathoms,  but  it  is  very  dangerous  the  greater  part 
of  the  year.  Portendick  has  always  followed  the 
fortunes  of  Arguin,   being    successively  in  the 

hands 


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iMmds  of  the  same  rmkiom.    In  Ij^  the  BoBudi 
levelled  its  fert  built  by  tbe  Dutch. 

Little  Portendicky  or  Gamarj  m  mne  letgun 
fttirther  south;  small  vessels  oniy  caa  aachor  in 
a  cove  b^re  iu  The  Marigot*  de  Mariiigoiiuii  as 
a  branch  gf  the  Seiv^al,  teti  leagues  south  ef 
Little  Porteodick,  and  twenty  ainrtfa  of  the  bar  of 
Sen^^. 

The  Senegal,  one  of  the  principal  rivers  «f 
Airica,  which  was  long  confounded  with  the 
Niger,  has  its  source  in  a  ridge  of  mountains,  in 
about  latitUi^e  11''  R  and  longitude  lO'^  W«^ 
its  coitfse  k  1,000  tniles»  It  overflows  in  Se^ten* 
ber  ^id  October,  and  when  it  again  returns  to  ite 
bed,  leavtBS  all  the  low  grounds  covered  widi  stag- 
«mt  water,  the  eislmhttions  fixxn  which  is  one  of 
the  chief  causes  of  the  unhtalthinen  af  tbe  di- 
^nate.  The  month  of  fihe  river  is  ODssed  by  n 
bar  of  sand,  through  which  are  two  ckanBcii, 
named  the  great  and  little  pasaea.  The  foinsai, 
though  its  te^eadth  and  direction  often  vaty, 
is  usually  100  &thoms  wide,  wid  from  nine  to 
thirteen  ftet  dee)s  but  on  accocaitt  of  the  sweH  en 
it>  vessefe  <^f  eight  feet  only  can  pass  it  with  sale- 
'^,  and  even  liie  snudloat  cmft  lec^res  a  pilu, 
%i^  tiirits  the  pass  eMiy  day ;  te  length  is  aboist 
a  mile  and  a  half,  and  vhen  imthin  it  tbe  wntar 
becoiMB  peiftetly  soMSth,  and  tbedapth  tncreases 
to  Ibar  and  six  Mm^^    Tbe  litde  pa$s  is  onl^ 

M 

•  Ifarigot  i9  t)M  aane  givvi  Irythe  French  to  s^i  xree^s ;  SIaringo\i!ii  is 

SMCD^pldtl^ 


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^308  UARvtmM  oBiKHura^K:..  . 

fit  for  canoes.  The  most  favourable  time  for  ei<- 
tering  the  river  is  from  April  to  Jime,  when  the 
vinds  blow  from  the  south,  and  the  water  being 
low,  there  is  little  current  setting  out.  The  most 
dangerous  time  is  from  September  to  December, 
when  strong  easteily  winds  and  a  n^id  current 
causes  a  heavy  surf  to  break  quite  across  the  bar. 
The  river  is  navigable  at  all  seasons  for  small  ves- 
sels to  Podor,  sixty  leagues  from  the  bar,  and  in 
the  rainy  season  for  vessels  of  150  tons  to  Galam, 
«00  leagues  farther.  Fxom  the  bar  the  direction 
of  the  river  is  to.  the  north ;  tlie  western,  or 
right  bank,  which  separates  it  from  the  sea,  being 
a  narrow  strip  of  sand,  only  100  fathoms  broad, 
and  devoid  of  all  vegetation.  Its  extreiQity  is 
named  Barbaiy  Point,  from  which  the  bar  stretch- 
es across  to  the  main.  The  east  bank  of  the 
river  for  three  leagues  from  the  bar  is  levels  and 
covered  with  palm  trees.  Here  a  chain  of  islands 
commences,  formed  by  creeks ;  some  .  of  these 
islands  are  overflowed  in  the  inundation  of  the 
river,  while  others  are  elevated  above  the  rise, 
and  are  extremely  fertile.  Four  league^  above 
the  bar  is  the  isle  St.  Louis,  the  principal  .es);a- 
blishment  of  the  French  in  Senc^.  It  is  about 
a  mile  and  a  half  long,  and  no  wheiie  mpr^  thapi 
three  hundred  yards  broad ;  is  flat,  and  withoirt 
oikeT  vegetation  than  mangroves  at .  the  northern 
extremity,  some,  scattered  jttlmsi  ajid  some  kitchoi 
vegetables  raised  in  gardens.  It  has  no  fre^  wa- 
ter, and  that  pf  the  river  being  brackish  from 
t)ecember  to  July,  during  this  period  the  inhab^ 

tants 


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THEVWIEST  CDAIT  OF  ASBICA.  009 

tants  are  obliged  either  to  send  boats  fi)r  the  s^ 
necessary  supply!  above  the  reach  of  the  tide,  or 
to  content  themselves  vrith.  what  they  caa  procure 
from  holes  dug  in  the  sand  oh  the  shores  of  the 
island,  but  which  loses  little  of  its  sidt. 

The  establishment  of  ^St.  Louis  consi3tS:  of  a 
fort,  an  hospitaJ,  a  church,  about  twenty  brick 
houses,  and  the  huts  of  the  n€^p:oes.  The  fort  is 
of  an  insular  form,  consisting  of  walls  or4brick9 
w^  four  rotind  towers.  and/4M>me  bastions }  the 
magazines  are  within  the  fort.  Oa  the  weft  sside 
of  the  idland  is  a  battery  of  fourteen  twehty^^BRir 
pounders,  whidi  commands  the  strip  of  slimi  dkat 
separates  the  river  from  the  sea ;  another  battery 
of  sdicteen  heavy  guns  on  tjie  south  point  of  tl^ 
island }  a  thitd  on  the  north  point  of  five  pmh 
mid  a  fo»rtii  a  little  i^rth  of  the  tofwb  c^  set 
eighteen  pounders.  The  papulation  df  the  i^bnd 
in.  1801  was  10,000  peiBons,  of  iffhom  30&bnly 
were  wliitfoand  A*ee  people,  of  colour,  the  re^ 
maiitder  beii^  siayes.  Tbe.garri^n  in  tiifte  of 
war  ought  to-  consist  of  €OQ  European^,  ^nd  of 
400  in  peace ;  but  these  numbers  were  never  com- 
plete. . 

Ascending  the  Senegal,  twenty-five  les^es 
fj^om  St.  Louii^,  is  UEscule  de  Desert,  en  the 
right  bank,  a  considerable  trading  place  for.  gum. 
A  litde  lugher  up  on  the  opposite  bank  is  a  creek, 
or  natural  canal,  called  Portuguese.  River,  which 
oommunicates  with  a  lake  call^  Panier  Foulah, 
into  which  the  waters  of  the  Senegal  rush  with, 
great  rapidity  in  the^ainy  ssa^n.  ^  Sjxi^  ie^gues 

above 


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£10 

iriwve  St  hams  is  the  fart  of  Fodor  on  the  Itft 
bMk»  and  en  the  apponte  baak  below  Fbdor  the 
estaUniuBeBt  Du  Ofq,  Mid  ahoee  it  the  aetde- 
■mit  nmod  Terrier  Rimge ;  «5  leagues  aboMi 
St  Louis  OB  the  left  bank  i»6fd^  to  wfaidi  the 
free  ptopfa  of  colour  of  St.  Loots  and  Goree 
make  am  anMud  ^roffage  on  the  ri  w»  to  pordiMe 
ahi?es«    The  bosta^  to  die  number  of  about  ibvty^ 
leave  9t  Louis  in  Jtdjr^  and  do  not  juriive  at 
Gahmk  before  October*    A  £ur  is  Md  here  Hm 
iiit  ifteen  dagm  of  Nofeoibcr^  wbece  are  ex^* 
ohan ged  Bmopem  goods^  for  goU  dimt»  rrorf^ 
bnlocfcs'  kidfSy   siat  ei^  rico^  nuHet,  and  manab 
llie  latter  for  the  ^oiMoaag  <tf  Geree  and  St 
Lonii.    When  the  waters  of  the  ri^er  begin  te 
firil  the  boats  descend,  and  arrive  at  St.  Louis  Jai 
ttben  dagra    Bewles  tks  tedious  aecent  of  tibe 
fi Wfr  and  Iftie  uidieflMMneffi  at  tfm  season,  \rfaidk 
is  alnost  ceriam  destraotion  to  Europeans,  the 
MarcJMnts  are  hud  under  hemj  contijbufiens  hf 
tiK  duefe  on  die  banks.    Tlie  journey  to  Oafaua 
by  knd,  it  is  said,  mi^  be  nuide  in  twenty-fiire 
days  with  ease,  during  eight  montiw  of  the  year; 
but  the  most  favourable  season  is  in  April,  whctt 
tiie  strong  north  winds  moderate  the  beat    The 
Senegal  abounds  with  the  crocodile  and  hippopo- 
tamus, and  hag  also  «he  manatL 

Aboift  midway  between  tjie  moudi  ^  the  Sene- 
gal and  Cape  Verd  is  Condamel  River;  and  hal^ 
nwy  between  the  ktter  and  the  same  Cape  is  the 
Lake  or  Lagoon  of  Entan,  the  waters  of  whidi 
ace  bfaehisiK  <  It  Mceives  a.  river  called  Rio  Doce^ 

(fresh 


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THE  Wtff  C04$T  or  M9MA.  511 

(£re9b  watery  i&  iuU  of  both  fresh  and  sak  water 
&ih,  aod  frequented  bj  a(|uatic  birds* 

Cape  Verd»  the  west  point  of  Africa,  is  the  ex- 
tremity <^  a  peninsular  promontory,  and  desiveii 
its  name  from  the  verdure  that  doaths  iU  consists 
ing  chiefly  of  palm  trees.  Its  soil  is  good  and 
fettili^ed  by  tittle  stxeama  of  fresh  imter..  The 
ncMTth  side  of  die  peninsula  forms  the  Bay  of  Yo£^ 
in  which  it  is  extremely  dangerous  to  be  embayed^ 
from  the  strong  SJ^E.  currents  setting  into  it» 
aiud  there  being  no  anchorage,  the  depth  dose  ta 
the  shore  being  100  &thoms» 

The  promontory  has  three  ccmspicuons  points. 
The  nxihr  named  Abnadi  Point,  is  low,  with  a. 
l^dge  of  breakers  tunning  out  frnqi  it  near  two 
noilea*    Cape  Yerd  Font  is  the  next^  and  is  about 
two  miles  south  of  Abnadi  Points  and  the  tidrdi 
is  C^qM  Manoe)>  three  leagues  and  a.  half  S.E.  of 
Gqpe  Yard.     About  a  league  west  of  Cape  Ma- 
Boel  axe  the  Magdalen  Isiarnds,  three  in  number* 
with  a  channel  near  a  mile  bix>ad,  and  wkb  fiv^e 
fitthoms  between  them  and  the  maim    Tlie  nortb- 
enuDost  and  largest  is  covered  with  ttee^  and  i» 
pierced  through  at  the  south  end.    The  second 
18.  a  large  rock  wh&ened  by  the  excrement  of 
agnatac  hirdi^  and  hence  called  Bird  Island.  Thre^ 
Imgwea  east  of  Cape  Manoel  is  Cape  Bemiard^ 
t)w  Qoaat  between  fbrmang  the  Bay  of  Ben,  which 
being  oooipletely  sheltered  by  the  island  of  Gores* 
ibtfias  an  excellent  hsuiaoar  in  which  ships^  may 
eareen.  Cmme  and  Arabo  are  two  creeks,  one  and 
a,faa)£aad  two  lassees  N«E.  of  Cape  Bernard. 

The 


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512  •    MARITIME  GEOeRAPHY. 

The  idand  of  Goree,  one  mile  and  a  half  dls^ 
tant  from  Cape  Manoel,  to  the  east,  is  a  barren 
elevated  rock,  not  more  than  half  a  mile  long 
morth  and  south,  and  about  120  fathoms  broad. 
Its  shores  are  rocky  and  bordered  by  a  beach  of 
black  pebbles,  except  a  small  sandy  cove  on  the 
E.N.K  in  which  vessels  of  any  si2e  may  anchor. 
The  soil  of  the  island  is  a  reddish  sand,  without 
sMay  spontaneous  v^etation,  but  the  inhabitants 
have  formed  kitchen  gardens.  The  island  has 
only  one  very  small  sprii^,  scarcely  sufficient  to 
supply  the  government^house  and  hospital,  and  the 
inhabitants  depend  for  this  object  either  on  the 
lain  water  preserved  in  cisterns,  or  f^ocure  it  from 
Ben  and  BUnk  on  the  main,  two  leagues  distant^ 
from  whence  the  island  is  also  supplied  widi  fresh 
prov^ons,  fruits,  &c. 

The  climate  of  Ooree  is  healthy,  the  atmos- 
phere being  refreshed  by  sea  breezes.  The  esta- 
blishment consists  of  a  fort  on  an  elevation  near 
the  north  end  of  the  island,  and  a  small  town  on 
the  east,  the  houses  of  which  are  well  built  oif 
brick.  Besides  the  garrison,  the  populatioii  is 
about  2f5O0  free  people  of  colour  and  slaves. 

-Goree  was  bought  by  the  Dutch  from  the  chief 
of  Cape  Verd  in  16 17,  and  by  them  received  this 
i;mme,  signifying  good  port.  Its  native  name  is 
Barsaguiche.  In  1663  it  was  taken  by  the  English, 
but  retaken  by  the  Dutch  two  years  af);er.  In 
1667  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  ibVench  who 
kept  it  till  169@,  when  it  surrendered  to  the 
English,  but  was  ret^cen  tlie  next  year  and  re* 

mainj^ 


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THE  WEST  COAST  OP  AFEICA.  513 

mained  with  France  until  176^^  when  the  English  ^' 
agaia  took  it,  but  restored  it  in  1763.  In  the 
American  war  it  again  was  captured  by  the  Eng* 
lish,  but  restored  hi  I788 ;  taken  by  the  English 
in  1801,  and  restored  at  the  peace  of  Amiens 
1802 ;  again  taken  by  the  English  in  1803>  retaken 
by  the  French  the  following  year,  and  again  by  the 
English  in  1805. 

Ktiffisco,  on  the  main,  three  leagues  E.N.E.  of 
Goree,  was  formerly  a  French  post' depending 
on  thid  idand.  It  has  a  good  road  and  a  run  of 
excellent  water,  from  which  its  name  is  derived^ 
by  a  corruption  of  Riiyfresco.  Prolonging  the 
coast  to  tho«outh  fVom  Ruffisco,  we  meet  in  success 
aicm  with  the  Marigot  or  Creek  q£  Paris,  and  Vqff^ 
tudal,  formerly  a  French  post  dependent  on  Goree^ 
from  which  it  is  distant  nine  leagues.  Its  road  is 
open  and  bordered  by  a  rocky  shore.  Between 
Portudal  and  Cape  Serene  (the  north  point  of  the 
Bay  of  Joal)  is  die  bank  of  Amb<mi,  so  named 
after  a  village  on  the  shore  from  which  it  is  two 
leagues  distant :  the  depth  on  it  is  nine  feet,  and 
£3€ir  and  five  fathoms  within  it.  Joal  is  an  aban^ 
doned  French  post  oh  a  river  or  creek. 

Bursahim  Biver,  supposed  to  be  the  northern 
brandi  of  the  Gambia,  empties  itself  by  six  mouths 
between  islands  The  first  of  these  mouths  is  named 
iUmera  or  Palmerin,  in  14^  n(K*th  ;  the  second, 
Salum,  in  \9^  5^ ;  the  third,  Ballan^amor,  in 
18^  40^  J  the  fourth,  Bellonte ;  the-fiflh,  Banquiale ; 
and  sixth  Guiamac  ;  which  last  three  Ml  into  the 
VOL.  II.  2l     .  mouth 


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514  marithIe  qeooeafht. 

Bmif^.  mouth  of  the  Gambia.  Palmeraand  Silvm  have 
only  depth  at  their  mouths  for  small  vessels ;  but 
above  the  islands  the  main  river  of  Bursalum  is 
deep  enough  to  be  navigated  by  the  laigest  ships. 
The  principal  of  these  islands  are  Sangomar,  Ban- 
lam,  and  Belionte :  they  are  for  the  most  psut  fer- 
tile and  cultivated. 

The  Gambia  empties  itself  by  a  mouth  three 
leagues  wide,  between  the  Birds'  Island  on  the 
north  and  Cape  St  Mary  on  the  south.  It  has 
its  source  in  the  same  ridge  as  the  Senegal,  and 
is  navigaUefor  vessels  of  300  tons,  sixty  leagues  ; 
and  for  those  of  150  tons,  250  leagues  to  Bana- 
conda,  to  which  distance  the  tide  is  felt  in  tiie 
dry  season  from  December  to  June  incii»ve.  Fratn 
June  to  September  the  ascent  is  impossible  from 
the  rapidity  of  the  current,  and  in  th^e  months 
it  also  overflows  and  inundates  the  low  country 
on  its  banks,  which  latter  are  g^ierally  covered 
with  mangroves.  Its  waters  are  at  all  times  muddy. 
It  abounds  in  iSsh,  but  is  infested  by  ciococtiles^^ 
The  hippopotamus  also  inhabits  it.  :The  Europeans 
have  not  ascended  the  river  beyond  Barraoonda, 
where  it  is  crossed  by  a  bank  of  rocks ;  above 
iyhich;it  is  said  to  loose  itself  in  an  extensive  marshy 
lake  covered  with  aquatic  plants. 

There  are  two  channels  into  the  river;  the 
northernmost,  or  grand  channel,  is  betwe^i  tiie 
Birds'  island  and  a  bank  named  Banguion;  it  is 
two  leagues  wide  with  six  and  seven  fathoitM; 
The  southern  or  little  channel  is  between  the  saane 

bank 


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THE   WEST   COAST  OF  AFRICA.  515 

bank  and  Cape  St.  Mary,  and  has  only  eight  or  smegma 
nine  feet  depth. 

The  navigation  of  the  Gambia,  as  far  as  regards 
trading  by   the  river,    belonging  exclusively  to 
Great  Britain,  she  has  several  establishments  on 
it :  of  which  the  principal  is  James  Fort,  on  an 
island  ten  leagues  above  the  entrance;    and  to 
which  the  depth  of  the  river  is  not  less  than  five 
fathoms.     Tl^e  island  is  only  200  yards  long  and 
fifty  broad :  it  was  originally  fortified  by  the  Eng- 
lish, but  being  taken  by  the  French  in  1688,  they' 
destroyed*  the  works,  and  it  has  never  been  found 
necessary  to  restore  them.     The  second  estabMsh- 
ment    is    Jillifi*ee,    on  the  right  bank  c^posito 
James's  Fort ;  it  is  in  an  healthy  situation  and  the 
neigbouring  country  is  extremely  fertile.     On  the 
left  or  soutii  bank  of  the  river  are  Vintain,  two 
leagues  above  JiUifree:  Tancrowal,  twelve  leagues 
farther;  Joukakonda,  six  days'  navigation  above 
Vintain.     The    French   factory  of   Albreda   is 
a  league  below  JiUifree.     The  river  Bintan  emp- 
ties itself  into  the  Gambia  on  the  left  baok,  a 
league  above  Fort  James,   and  is  navigable  for 
large  boats  a|  all  seasons  to  the  village  of  Bintan, 
chiefly  inhabited  by  African  Portuguese,  who  are 
described  as  having  good  houses  weU  furnished, 
and  a  neat  church. 

From  the  entrance  of  the  Gambia  to  the  south, 
are  met  in  succession  Cape  Pd4  or  Bald  Head  : 
four  leagues  south  of  Cape  St.  Mary,  on  its  north 
nde  is  the  bay  and  bank  of  St  Anne,  and  ofi^  it  a 
large  reef  of  rocks.    The  rivers  St*  Pedro,   St; 

3  L  2  Anne, 


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S16  KAftlTIME   OKOGRAPHY. 

Anne,  and  Los  Ostras  (Oyster  river),  which  are 
branches  of  the  Cassaman^a,  and  the  latter  thought 
to  be  one  of  the  brandies  of  the  Gambia  j  it  is 
crossed  by  a  bar  that  admits  only  small  cra% 
tboogh  within  there  is  depth  for  the  largest  ships. 
The  PcHTtuguese  have  several  establishments  on 
this  river,  of  which  the  chief  is  Zinquincor  on  the 
tob^  bank  three  leagues  from  its  mouth.  Cape 
Roxo,  five  leagues  south  of  the  entrance  of  Cassa- 
man^a  river,  has  its  name  from  being  formed  of 
tow  red  cK% ;  it  is  the  most  prominent  point  of 
m  large  idaild. 

The  river  St.  Domingo  empties  itself  eight 
leagues  east  <^  Cape  Roxo,  and  its  mouth  is  crossed 
by  a  bar  that  admits  only  vessels  of  eight  or  nine 
feet,  but  within  the  bar  it  is  deep  for  several 
leagues.  At  its  entrance  is  the  insignittcsmt  Por- 
tuguese fort  of  Cacheo,  and  five  leagues  higher  up 
on  the  south  bank  the  town  of  l^e  same  name, 
the  principal  establishment  of  the  Portuguese  on 
these  coasts.  It  con^sts  of  three  long  streets  in 
the  direction  of  the  river,  and  some  short  ones 
intersecting  themj  the  houses  have  cmly  the 
ground  floor  but  are  large  and  commodious.  It 
has  a  church  and  a  convent  of  two  ot  three 
Capuchins,  imder  the  spiritual  jurisdiction  of  the 
Bishop  of  the  Ci^  Verd  islands.  On  the  west 
of  the  town  is  a  triangular  fort  with  a  bastion  at 
each  angle,  two  of  which  facing  the  land  are 
joined  by  a  curtain  of  masomy,  and  the  third 
which  faces  the  river  is  joined  to  tfee  other  two  bf 
palisades.  The  garrisonusually  consists  of  eight 

or 


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THE  WEST   COAST   OF  AlTirCA.  517 

Of  ten  f^ropesm  officers,  civil  and  military,  and 
thirty  soldiers,  generally  CiHivicts  from  Portugal, 
sentenced  to  serve  here  for  three  years. 

Between  the  rivers  St.  Domingo  and  Rio 
Grande,  several  branches  empty  themselves, 
forming  three  large  islands,  called  Jatte,  Bassis, 
and  IKssaa  Jatte,  the  westernmost,  is  ten  leagues 
long  and  has  three  islets  off  its  west  end.  Bassis, 
is  separated  from  Jatte  by  the  river  St  Catherine, 
it  is  eleven  leagues  long,  fertile,  well  watered,  and 
has  two  good  ports,  but  the  inhabitants  arc  de- 
scribed as  treacherous  and  thievish.  Bissao,  tiie 
eastern  and  largest,  rises  gradually  from  the  sea 
to  a  level  hiU  in  the  centre.  It  is  well  watered, 
and  abounds  in  cattle  and  fruit.  The  Portuguese 
have  a  settlement  on  the  east  end  of  the  island 
with  a  fort  mounting  fifty  guns  and  a  garrison  of 
800  convict  soldiers.  Boin  and  Sorcerors  islands 
are  two  small  islands  near  the  east  side  of*  Bisiao. 

Greba,  or  Geves  river,  empties  itself  into  a 
great  inlet  of  the  sea  east  of  Bissao  ialaijkd ;  it  has 
a  conmiunication  with  the  river  St.  Domingo,  and 
all  the  branches  that  separate  the  islands,  noticed 
in  the  last  paragraph,  seem  to  belong  to  one  of 
these  two  rivers.  The  Geba  has  its  name  from  a 
Porti^uese  settlement  fifteen  leagues  from  its 
mouth  i  it  is  navigable  during  the  dry  season  from 
December  to  September  for  boats  drawing  four 
or  five  feet,  fifty  leagues,  to  which  (^stance  the  tide 
is  felt,  and  which  runs  up  at  times  with  such 
vapidkjr  as  to  omUe  a  dai^^ous  boce^    In  the 

€  L  3  rainy 


Semrfmbm* 


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518  MARITIME   GEOGRAPHY. 

senegnmbia.  jainy  8635011  thc  currciit  is  so  strong  as  to  render 
the  ascent  impossible. 

The  Rio.  Grande  de  St.  Pedro  is  a  very  con- 
siderable river  whose  source  is  unknown,  but  it  is 
said  to  be  navigable  for  ships  twenty  leagues,  and 
for  large  boats  about  thiiiy-eight  leagues  further, 
here  it  is  crossed  by  a  ledge  of  rocks.  Its  course, 
it  is  pretended,  has  been  followed  by  the  Portu- 
guese  for  300  leagues. 


^tfafo$t 


Between  Cape  Roxo  and  the  Rio  Grande  is  the 
Archipelago  of  Bissagos,  or  Bijuga,  composed 
of  many  islands  on  a  bank  of  rock  and  sand,  and 
separated  from  the  islands  Jatte,  Bassis,  and  Bis- 
sao,  by  a  channel  from  one  to  four  leagues  broad, 
and  with  eight  to  twelve  fathoms,  muddy  bottom. 
These  islands  rise  gradually  from  the  shore  towards 
the  interior  to  the  height  of  sixty  feet,  and  are 
in  part  formed  by  the  alluvion  of  the  Rio 
Grande  ;  they  are  extremely  fertile,  and  among 
them  are  several  excellent  ports,  but  seldom 
visited  by  Europeans.  Formosa  (Green  island) 
or  Warang,  the  westernmost,  is  six  leagues  long 
east  and  west  and  three  broad ;  it  is  fertile  but 
uninhabited.  Carache  and  Corbele  are  next  east- 
ward ;  to  which  succeeds  Cazegat  or  Point  island, 
six  leagues  long,  two  broad,  inhabited,  fertile,  and 
well  cultivated.  It  is  surrounded  by  reefs,  except 
at  the  S.W.  and  N.E.  points,  near  which  is  good 
anchorage.  Off  its  east  end  is  the  island  Papa- 
guya,  or  Parrot.    The  inhabitants  of  Cazegat  are 

described 


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TiaK   WEST   COAST   OF  AFBICA,  519 

described  as  sociable  and  honest  Bulam,  the  sufgc: 
best  known  of  these  islands^  is  opposite  the  en- 
trance of  the  Rio  Grande }  it  is  about  nine  leagues 
long  east  and  west  and  five  broad.  It  rises  gra* 
dually  from  the  shores  to  some  hills  in  the  middle, 
which  are  covered  with  wood,  and  from  which  de- 
scend numerous  streams.  Horses,  horned  cattle, 
buffidoes,  and  goats,  are  found  wild  on  it,  as  well 
as  elephants,  hyenas,  deer,  and  wild  hogs.  When 
the  English  formed  an  establishment  on  this  island 
in  1792,  it  was  uninhabited;  but  the  inhabitants 
of  the  neighbouring  islands  cultivated  rice  and 
millet  on  it.  West  of  Bulam  is  Gallina  island,  so 
named  from  abounding  in  Guinea  fowls,  inhabited, 
fertile,  and  well  cultivated.  Areas,  or  Bow  is- 
land, north  of  Bulam,  has  po  fresh  water.  Man- 
tere  island,  south  of  Bulam,  forms  the  south  point 
of  the  entrance  to  the  Rio  Grande,  and  is  only 
separated  from  the  main  by  a  narrow  channel  or 
creek.  Kasnabac  is  one  of  the  most  considerable 
islands  of  the  Archipelago ;  it  is  inhabited,  culti- 
vated and  has  good  water.  Off  its  north  side  are 
some  Cays,  called  Hog  islands.  The  other  islands 
are  Saoga,  west  of  Kasnabac ;  Jambir,  S.E.  of  the 
same;  Cavale  or  Mare  island;  Mel,  or  Honey 
island.  P(Hfl60D,or  Fish  island,  is  three  leagues  south 
c^  Mel,  a  reef  of  breakers  extending  quite  be- 
tween them.  Poisson  is  also  surrounded  by  banks, 
except  off  its  west  side,  where  is  good  anchorage 
in  nine  fathoms,  a  mile  off  shore.  Alcatras  is  a 
small  island  surrounded  by   reefs:   it  is  ten  or 

2  L  4  twelva 


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SUrrmLnm* 


5Q0  *    MARITIME  GEOGRAPHY. 

twelve  leagues  east  of  the  Bissagos,  and  about 
W.N.W,  of  the  river  Nunez. 

Nunez  Tristao  river,  which  is  probably  a  branch 
of  the  Rio  Grande,  empties  itself  by  a  mouth  of 
considerable  breadth,  but  obstructed  by  banks, 
between  which  are  channels  with  two  or  three 
fathoms  depth.  Its  current  is  rapid.  It  is  usually 
considered  as  the  east  limits  of  the  tenitory 
claimed  by  the  Portuguese.  FrcMn  this  river  the 
coast  is  lined  by  shoals,  and  by  a  chain  of  iftlaiids 
named  Caxa,  the  point  of  one  of  which  is  Cupe 
Verga. 

Between  Cape  Verga  and  the  river  of  i^erra 
Leone  the  following  rivers  empty  themselves  in 
succession:  Pongo*,  Cacuoga,  Dembia»  Daiik» 
Sangoree,  Quiap  or  Quoyaporte,  Kissey  or  Be- 
reira,  Tanna  or  Sama,  Moldcurry  or  Mailecoury, 
Great  and  Little  Scarcies,  on  which  are  some 
English  trading  places.  According  to  the  latest 
maps  these  rivers  seem  to  be  branches  of  the  Rio 
Grande  and  Sierra  Leone.  Opposite  the  Dania 
are  the  isles  Los,t  eight  in  number,  of  which  four 
only  are  inhabited,  the  rest  being  roeka^  Hie 
first,  or  William's  Island,  forms  the  south  poiot  of 
tlie  entrance  of  Dania  River,  and  is  (m\y  separated 
from  the  main  by  a  narrow  creek :  its  western  ex- 
ti^mity  is  named  Tumba,  or  Toimbeatt  Point  The 

other 

*  This  riTcr  is  of  considerable  size,  nirigable  forty  miks  from  tbe  set, 
luid  baa  a  great  trade. 

t  A  oomiptioB  of  the  nane  gtv«D  tbem  ^  «k«  PartogMM  iMaoMNn, 
Bhiu  de  lot  Idoht  (Isles  of  Idols}.    The  nativt  name  is  ToroHmah, 


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THE  WEST  COAST  OF  AFRICA.  Sftl 

other  seven  islands  lay  close  together,  and  are  se-  *'^^^- 
parated  from  Tumba  Point  by  a  chwnel  two  miles 
wide :  they  are  elevated,  healthy,  and  agreeable. 
Tamara,  the  west  and  largest,  rises  gradually  from 
the  shores  to  an  elevation  that  may  be  seen  twelve 
leagues.  It  affords  excellent  timber,  rice,  millet, 
fruits,  &c.  Los,  or  Factory  Idbuid,  on  which  the 
English  have  a  small  fort,  is  dbout  a  league  long 
and  100  yards  broad. .  It  has  some  springs  of  ex- 
oell^At  water,  and  on  the  east  a  creek,  where 
small  vessels  may  careen.  Crawford  Island,  be- 
tween Tamara  and  Los,  is  a  league  in  circuit, 
Ikffords  only  some  small  trees,  but  has  a  sandy 
Oove,  with  good  anchorage.  On  it  are  two  Eng- 
lish trading  factories. 

The  fcMir  remaining  islands  are  merdy  gre^ 
rocks;  their  names  are,  White  Island,  from  being 
whitened  by  the  ordure  of  sea  birds;  Goat  and 
Kid  Islaiul&  They  all  idxmnd  in  the  sea  onion^ 
or  squill^. 

Sierra  Leone  River  k  generally  supposed  to  de- 
nve  its  name  from  the  mountains  in  which  it  has 
its  source  abounding  in  lions;  but  it  is  now  certain 
that  these  animals  do  not  exist  in  this  country. 
Its  native  name  is  Mitomba»  and  the  French  for- 
merly  called  it  Tagrin,  from  a  promontory^  which 
forms  the  south  point  of  the  entrance,  and  which 
hy  the  Ei^licih  is  called  Cape  Sierra  Leone,  and 
by  the  Portuguese  Cape  Lc^.  This  oape  k  low» 
tnd  covered  with  trees,  and  three-fourths  of  a  miie 
&Qm,  it  is  a  rock,  called  the  Carpentier,  covered 
at  high  water,  but  with  a  deq>  and  safe  channel 

between 


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SM  '    MARITIME  GEOGRAPHY. 

Tr*j^,0.  between  it  and  the  Cape.  Close  to  the  iu)rtb 
point  of  the  river's  mouth  is  Leopard  Island,  from 
which,  towards  Cape  Sierra  Leone,  a  large  bank^ 
called  the  Middle  Ground,  extends,  leaving  only 
a  passage  for  small  craft  on  the  west.  The  ship 
diannel  is  dose  past  Cape  Sierra  Leone  and  along 
the  south  shore,  and  is  about  two  miles  broad,  with 
twelve  and  fourteen  fathoms,  witiiin  a  stone's 
throw  of  the  shores  The  breadth  between  Cape 
Sierra  Leone  and  Leopard  Island  is  seven  miles, 
but  contracts  to  three  miles  and  a  half  about  two 
leagues  above  these  points;  beyond  this  it  agaia 
narrows  to  one  mile,  and  six  leagues  higher  is 
three  miles*  The  tide  flows  up  eleven  leagues, 
but  is  very  irregular  during  the  rainy  season.  In 
the  dry  season  the  perpendicular  rise  is  ten  feet, 
and  it  runs  five  miles  an  hour.  A  considerable  dis- 
tance from  the  sea  it  is  crossed  by  a  grand  cataract. 
The  northern  banks  are  low,  and  covered  with 
impenetrable  forests;  while  the  southern  onea 
present  the  romantic  scenery  of  lofty  hills. 

Free  Town,  the  philanthropic  establishment  oq 
this  river,  is  on  the  south  shore,  three  miles  with- 
in Q^e  Sierra  Leone.  It  is  situated  on  an  eleva* 
tion,  which  first  rises  abruptly  from  the  water  to 
the  height  of  fifty  feet ;  then  amphitheatrically  to 
the  foot  of  a  ridge  of  hills,  three  quarters  of  a  nule 
from  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  whosfs  summits 
are  600  fert  above  the  sea.  The  soil  of  this  ta^ 
ritory  is  an  argillaceous  earth  mixed  with  sand  and 
rodks ;  the  hills  are  covered  with  lofty  treas,  9oA 
the  vallies  preserve  a  pwpetual  vwdure.    The 


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THB  WXn  COAST  OF  AFUCA.  9^ 

water  is  better  than  on  any  other  part  of  the  coast,  *«"iif~* 
and  two  small  streams  run  through  Free  Town, 
besides  which  it  has  several  springs.  Being  free 
from  swamps,  the  climate  is  healthy,  except  at 
the  commencement  of  the  rains  in  May  and  June;, 
and  even  in  these  months  it  is  incomparably  better 
than  most  other  parts  of  the  coast. 

The  chief  vegetables  cultivated  are  rice  and 
Indian  com,  the  sweet  cassava  or  manioc,  yams, 
together  with  almost  all  the  fruits  of  the,  tropics. 
All  the  domestic  animals  and  fowls  of  Europe 
are  raised  in  abundance,  as  well  as  the  Guinea 
fowl ;  the  river  abounds  in  fish,  but  is  also  infested 
by  the  alligator  and  shark ;  the  loggerhead,  hawks- 
bill,  and  green  turtle,  as  well  as  the  manati,  are 
abundant. .  Among  the  reptiles  are  the  guana  an(l 
other  species  of  lizards,  with  several  varieties  of 
snakes,  amongst  wluch  is  said  to  be  the  boa  con- 
strictor. The  neighbouring  mountains  have  leo- 
pards, hyenas,  wild  hogs,  antelopes,  squirrels^ 
monkies,  of  which  tribe  is  the  chimpanzee^  approach- 
ing the  nearest  to  the  human  form,  the  civet  cat, 
&c.  The  insects  of  warm  dimates  are  here  very 
troublesome ;  such  are  the  termites^  or  white  ant, 
musquitos,  sand-flies,  cockroaches,  &c 

Besides  the  colony  of  Free  Town,  the  English 
have  an  establishment  on  the  Isle  of  Bance,  a 
barren  rock,  five  leagues  higher  up  the  river,  which 
was  formerly  for  the  purpose  of  procurii^  slaves. 
On  the  Isle  of  Tassa,  below  Bance,  is  a  copsider- 
able  cotton  plantatiiM). 

!   In  1784  the  French  formed  an  establishment 

on 


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JW4  XABimn  OBOOftAVBT. 

Oil  Gambia  Idand,  in  the  river  Bondiy  vludi  iUk 
into  the  Sierra  Leone  on  the  sonA  shore. 

West  southerly^  tram  Cape  Sierra  Leone,  is 
the  north  extremi^  of  St  Anne^ft  Shoal,  (in  most 
charts  called  the  Bassaw^s  or  Ba8haw%  a  corruptioD 
of  Baxos).  It  extends  seventeen  leagues  to  the 
S^.  in  the  direction  of  the  coast,  and  at  its 
south  extremity  are  the  Turtle  Islands,  which 
extend  in  a  chain  to  the  west  point  of  Sherboroogh 
Island,  or  Qyfe  St.  Amie^  before  the  mouth  c( 
Sheiborough  river.  There  is  a  channel  on  the 
north  side  of  these  idbnds  with  three  and  four 
fkthoms.  In  siuling  from  Sierra  Leone  to  the 
south,  it  is  necessary  to  run  to  the  &W.,  out  of 
sight  of  land,  to  keep  outside  of  these  sho^ 

Between  the  rivers  %erra  Leone  and  Sher- 
bcMTough  is  Yawry  Bay,  into  ¥4iich  faMs  the  rivers 
Ajatto  Punt,  Kales^  Oamboos,  which  is  navigable 
for  boats  ten  cm*  twelve  leagues.  On  the  river 
Sherborough  x  Yaittout^,  near  its  mouth,  the 
Englisli  have  the  settiement  ef  Jenkin*s  Town, 
where  large  vessels  anchor^  but  small  cmes  mil 
v^  to  the  junction  of  the  Ma(ka  Bomba,  where  is 
tile  chief  tradii^  place.  Off  the  river  Kales  is 
Banana  Island,  four  m3es  long  and  two  broad, 
lertile,  with  two  small  coves  on  the  east;  off  its 
S.W.  end  are  the  Bengal  rocks.  Flaittain  or 
Brave  Island  is  off  Tassa  point,  four  leagues  west 
of  Sherborough  Island. 

Between  Sherbcmmgh  and  Mesurado  rivers  sre 
the  rivers  Gallinas,  Sugary,  and  Nun,  ^  closed 
by  bars  i^ainst  any  thing  but  canoes.      Gspe 

Monte 


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THE  WfiST  COAST  OF  AFftlCA.  $05 

MoQte  or  Mount  is  formed  <^  several  hammocks,  Q^ 
with  low  bud  on  each  side.  West  of  the  Cape  is 
anchorage.*  The  river  Mesurado^  or  Si.  Psul  of 
the  Portuguese,  receives  vessels  of  considerable 
size  in  the  rainy  season  $  and  large  ships  may,  at' 
an  times,  anchor  in  its  mouth  in  five  or  six 
fitthoms.  Cape  Mesurado,  the  east  pmnt  of  the 
entrance^  is  nearly  perpendicular  on  the  west  side, 
but  sloping  on  the  cast  coming  from  the  north : 
it  makes  Ifte  an  island. 

The  Europeans  have  no  establishments  on  the  ^^If" 
Grain  Coast,  nor  is  it  much  visited  for  the  purposes 
of  trade.  The  places  niost  worthy  of  notice  are^ 
Junk  River»  sixteen  leagues  east  of  C$^  Mesu* 
rado,  St  John's  river,  eight  lei^es  &rther,  Bissaw, 
a  large  negro  town.  Young  Sorters,  or  Sexter 
River,  whidi  is  known  by  a  high  round  inhad 
mountain  in  the  middle  of  low  hud,  and  by  thrrt 
rocks  N.W.  of  itsf  mouth ;  weA  of  which  is  also  a 
ledge  of  rocks  and  flat  running  <^  fbr  two  leagi^a. 
The  east  point  of  the  river's  mouth  is  named 
Cape  Baxos,  a  low  cape,  from  which  a  dangerous 
reef  runs  out  two  leagues;  at  the  extremity  of 
which  is  Palmas  Island,  or  the  Devil's  Rock, 
without  any  passage  within  it.  The  current  of  the 
river  is  rapid,  but  vessds  of  burden  can  ascend  it 
three  leagues,  and  long-boats  much  farther.  In  the 
entrance  is  a  rock  lefl  on  the  right  hand  by  ships 
going  in. 

Sanguin 

•  Ships  seldom  touch  here,  except  for  pronaiona,  which  consult  of 
iMt»,  hogs,  comaoD  and  gninea  ibwls,  pigeons,  rice  aid  iUh,  9Sid  freih 


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WfUH  C<KUti 


526  MARITIME  GEOGRAPHY. 

Sanguin  rivet  is  only  fit  for  boats.    Swinb  Cape 
is  known  by  three  or  four  high  roc^s,  two  miles 
off  shore,    and  opposite    the    negro    village    c£ 
Battow,  half  a  league  west  of  the  cape ;  on  the 
east  side  of  which  latter  are  also  brokers.    Swino 
river,  three  leagues  east  of  the  Cape,  can  only  be 
entered  by  vessels  of  ten  feet.    Settera  Krou,  or 
Citrie,  is  a  large  negro  village,  and  one  of  the 
chief  trading  places  of  the  Grain  Coast;  it   is 
known  by  a  cape  with  three  black  points,  off  wbidi 
are  two  great  rocks,  steep  to  j  the  Is^^est,  called 
the  Swallow,  and  three  leagues  and  a  half  ott 
shore.     A  reef  runs  off  from  the  west  point  of  the 
riVer,  near  which  is  the  village.     Great  Citrie  is 
five  leagues  farther  east:  between  them  are  several 
creeks,  which  may  be  entered  by  boats  ibr  wood 
and  wafer.    Hie  country  inland  is  very  h%h,  and 
has  many  round  hummocks. 

Great  Sesters  river,  also  called  Little  Pariiiy 
from  a  French  establishment  supposed  to  have 
existed  here  in  the  fourteenth  centui}',  was  for- 
merly a  trading  place  for  slaves,  it  is  fifteen  ies^es 
west  of  Cape  Palinas;  neariy  midway  between 
them  is  the  river  Gorivay.  Cape  Falmas,  the 
west  p6int  of  the  Gulf  of  Guinea,  is  easfly  distin* 
guished,  at  first  making  like  a  mountain,  and  on 
approaching  it,  presenting  three  round  hummocks, 
on  the  extremity  of  which  are  three  very  high 
palm  trees,  whence  its  name.  Between  Great 
Sesters  and  this  Cape,  the  shore  is  lined  with 
rocks ;  and  a  league  from  the  Cape  is  a  reef,  in 
the  channel  within  which  the  currents  set  with 

great 


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THfi.WSiT  OOAST  W  AVRtCA.  597 

great  violence  to  the  east  and  on  t^  Cape  point,  Of^^f*^- 
so  that  it  shoidd  not  be  attempted. 

The  West  part  o£  the  Ivoty  Coast  is  not  more  '^^J^^ 
frequented  than  the  Ghram  Coast;  the  principal 
points  are  Cayally  River,  three  leagues  east  of 
Cape  Falmas.     It  has  a  wide  mouth,  which  is 
only  seen  coming  from  the  west,  when  it  bears 
north.    Here  is  a  negro  village  in  the  middle  <^  a 
thick  wood,  and  before  it  five  or  six  black  rocks. 
Four  leagues  &trther  east  is  the  village  of  Tliabo, 
Off  a  rividet,  a  considerable  trading  place ;  east 
of  which,  in  succession,  are  the  villages  of  Dodo, 
Xaffis  and  Berbie ;  the  coast  behind  them  is  ntoun- 
tsunous  and  uneven.    The  river  St.  Andrew  emp- 
ties itself  by  a  wide  mouthy  but  crossed  by  a  bar, 
which  admits  only  long  boats.     It  was  foi'merly 
mudi  frequ^ited   for  ivory  and  proviimM.     A 
ridge  of  remarkable  red  clifib  begin  here,  and 
extend  seven  leagues  to  the  east.    From  Cape 
Palmas  to  this  river,  the  depth,  within  a  league  of 
the  shore,  is  twenty-five  to  thirty  fathoms,  but 
opposite  the  tract  of  Red  Clifis  the  depth  is  much 
less,  there  being  but  ten  to  twelve  fathoms  two 
leagues  ofil      Frisco   River  is  midway  between 
St.  Andrew  and  Cape  Le  Hou;  three  leagues 
east  of  which  latter  is  the  river  La  Hou,  which 
admits  only  canoes  over  a  bad  bar.    Here  the 
depth  is   forty-five  fathoms  a  league  off*  shore, 
and  no  ground  at  two  leagues.    The  river  Sueira 
de  Costa   empties  itself  between  Cape  Le  Hou- 
and  Ci^  Three  Points,  by  a  large  mouth,  in^  the 
middle  of  a  wood. 

Nine  leagues  east  of  the  Sueira  de  Costa  river 

is 


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AI8  MAftiTiifB  0iOG&Annr« 

^J^  18  Awaee,  a  ktrge  n^^  viHage  on  a  nver.  Hent 
amiinences  the  European  estaUiiliinents  on  tiie 
Gold  Coast ;  the  first  of  wkich  is  Apolfenia,  an 
&igUsh  £Mrt»  a  league  east  ci  the  eape  of  the 
tame  name*  Here  Utfuiing  is  only  practicable  in 
the  native  canoes,  £ram  the  great  surf,  and  the 
estahUshoMtt  is  inrigmficant 

The  River  Ancober,  or  Snake,  so  named  by  the 
Portuguese  from  its  seqientine  course,  empties  it^ 
self  west  of  Cape  Three  Points ;  it  only  admits 
boots  over  a  bar,  but  within  it  is  deep,  and  the 
banks  for  twenty  leagues  are  covered  with  lof^ 
trees.    On  the  east  bank  is  the  Dutch  i<xt  of  SL 
Antony,  near  the  Negro  town  of  Axim,  wfaidi 
mocii]^  twenty  small  guns.    Above  the  fort  the 
river  is  ne^uly  dosed  by  the  idand  Areas,  leaving 
only  a  very  wyrrow  channel  on  eai^  dde.  TAndii^ 
is  here  easy,  and  the  fresh  water  is  good  and  easily 
got  off;  lOid  it  is  considered  one  of  the  least  un- 
healthy spots  of  Uie  coast.    The  Ruraian  fort  of 
Frederiekdbuig  was  three  miles  east  of  Ancober 
River,  and  ale^pie  west  of  Cape  Three  Pcmits,  on 
which  latter  the  Phissians  had  also  a  foit,  named 
Tracama.    Cape  Three  Points  is  named  fnmi  its 
thfee  headknda,  with  intermediate  sandy  coves. 
A  league  eiet  of  the  Cape  is  Acoda,  or  Aqnida, 
a  Dutdi  fort,  to  which  succeeds  the  English  fork 
of  Dixcove,  or  Iniumah,   three  leagues  &tther, 
ttid  on  a  creek  only  cajMble  of  receiving  canoes ; 
the  establistunent  is  of  little  impc^rtance. 

Botroe,  or  Boutry,  a  league  east  of  Dixcove,  is 
a  N^o  village  under  the  walls  of  the  Dutch  fort 
of  Batt^tistetn,  which  is  on  a  hig^  hill  near  the 

banks 


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baidto  of  the  Adttaif  s  pleasmt  rivet  abmuidifig 
witbt  flsbi  but  abo  infested  by  crocodffes.  TfafW 
littles  0rom  tlie  sea  it  h»s  at)ieture8^e  ML  Tac6* 
taty,  a  A^  sucoessivelj  possessed  by  ilie  EaglMb^ 
Dtrtcfa,  PrpssiattSy  Swtdes^  aad  Thaes^  and  latteriy 
again  by  the  Dutdh.  Half  a  kagiw  fiuthtt  eait^ 
at  Succundee,  the  JEkiglish  and  Dttteb  have  each  a 
ftctory  a  musket-shot  djataocss  fcom  each  lother : 
the  cove  on  which  they  stand  has  ^  h^st  ibi- 
cborage  on  the  Gold  Coast 

Three  leagdea  east  of  Saecimdee  is  St.  Jcdm^ 
Rivff,  or  Bomm  Frs  (Hdy  River)  of  the  Negroes^ 
who  adore  it  as  a  divinity  ;  it  ia  known  to  have  100 
Hules  course^  land  is  thought  to  cottwuntesie  with 
i^EfiGober  Aiver,  thmr  noiitte  beiig  sixtMift  mile» 
asqndeff*  On  St.  John^s  River  is  the  fort  of  SC« 
Sebastiaa  of  Chama»  Mranting  twent^eoe  gmts. 
Foot  leagues  farther  eaat,  at  CMttmevda  or  Aka^ 
tak^  the  English  an4  Dutch  have  each  a^  factory* 
9nd  fart  close  to  each  other ;  the  Dutcfa^  nasaed 
VardeBbiirg,  i8»  or  wts»  a  square  builditi^,  laoimt- 
ing  thirty-two  guns*  Behind  CamiBendb  is  a  high 
mountain^  seeA  twei^ty  leagues  at  sea* 

St  Gewge  de  la  Mitte  (sMoetifiDes  called  Del-: 
mina,  and  Ehnina)  is  the  priiua]^  estaMfchasJai 
of  the  Dutch  on  the  coast  of  A&ka*    ItcomiMi' 
of  a  sq^uase  castle,  with  atO!vi«r  jit  eaek  aio^le,  and 
a  donUed  di«ch  on  the  knd  sEde;^   "UmtudB  tlM 
sea  tbekgtuUBgisii^posaUctifixnB  tiil^  MChs^  eaai- 
surf,  exeqpt  m  omdtfotp  whkfa  is  ddiiainaialiid  by ' 
twenty  IS^undersk     The  wfaok*  iaoitnts  tOO 
pieo^  of  «amoQ>  wd  is  fatilt  fart^  ^  sctme 

vox**:n.  2  It  found 


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found  <m  the  epoU  and  partly  of  bricks  sent  from 
Holland.  Hie  large  Nc^ro  town  of  Oddenna, 
built  of  rock  stone,  is  below  the  castle.  Within 
gltn-flbot,  east  of  St  George,  is  the  river  Beii|a  ; 
ao.a  hill  near  which  it  the  Dutdi fort  of  Conrads- 
biugi  ft  ywdmngnlar  work  with  fimr  bastions^ 
which  commaiids  the  f<Mt  of  S^.  Oeorge. 

Cape  Coast  Castle  (Cap  Corse  of  the  French} 
is  two  leagues  and  a  half  east  oi  St.  Geoige,  and 
is  the  chief  establishment  of  the  English  oB  the 
Gold  Coast;  it  is  built  on  a  rock,  named  Ta- 
ifocoi^^  ftfojecting  intio  the  sea,  and  mounts 
tlMty-eight  pMces  of  canpon.  Here  are  extensive' 
rfi^pirium^  and  a  number  of  small  vessels  are 
l^eftt  ^oBitaiitfy  trading  tm  the  coast  to  procure 
qai;gOes  for  the  compan/s  ships.  Behind  the 
castle  is  aiaqge Negro  vittaga.  Ships  anchor  in 
the  roads  ia  eigbt  fathoow,  under  the  protection 
of  the  guns. 

'  Mauree,  or  lEi'ort  Nassau  of  the  Dutch,  is  two 
leagues  east  of  Gape  Coast,  and  considered  next 
in  Goweqnence  to  St  George.  Animaboo,  one 
league  further,  is  an  English  Fort,  and  was  formed  j 
the  chief  tradiflfg  place  for  slaves,  there  being 
sridKNtt  less  than  twenty  £nglmh  slave  ships  in  the 
roaiAiL  ^  Coronnat^,  or  Fort  Amsterdam,  two 
lei^ues  fuither.east,  is  a  Dutch  factory,  mountmg 
twW$  gutts,'  three  leagues  from  which  is  Amokou, 
the-  <Hdy.aetllementi)the  French  poasessed  on  the 
Gold  Goaat  and  which  nevei*  igrrhred  to  any  conse* 
qomce;  landii^  is  here  only  practicable  in  the 
m^p^  ca«oes,«aQd  the  lieaiMt  Aesh  water  is  a 

-leagtie 


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THE  WBBT  COAST  Of.UntlCA*  581 

teague  dsBtatit  Tamtiomquorry  is  an  ]Qi^sh  fao  cow^. 
tory,  a  league  east  of  a  point  of  the  save  luuna. 
Apam,  a  square  Dutch  i(brt;  Leydsaam  Heyd^  and 
factory  on  an  ekvation  near  a  creek.  Winnebah  - 
(Sinpan  of  the  French)  has  a  small  En^ish  fort  on  a 
river.*  Between  Apatn  and  Winnebah  ^  the  liighest 
tnountdn'df  thef  coast,  called  the  Dev2's  HilL 
Thre^  leagues  east^f  Winnebah  is  Baf9:aj3oe  or 
B^coe,  a  Dutch  iactwy ;  end  about  ^  six  leagues 
further  is  Acra,  a  large  [nj^yi^vfllage,  new  whic^ 
the  En^lkdi,  DittcH»  and  Dimes  have  each  a  fixrt 
The  £ingiish,  named  James's  Fort,  is  the  west 
The  ]^utch,  named  ©revecoeur^  is  close  to  it  oin 
tile  east ;  land  near  a  le%ue  further  east  is  Chris-- 
tittibei^' 1^  chief  mtkh\TSifmeat  of  the  Danra 
<m  th^i^^oast,  end  which  mounts  100  pieces,  of 
ttiuinon.  -         ■  >       .  *.  *    .  , 

*  T<>  Acre  sw^ceeds  KHqgo  Fikeneaay^  at  four 
ieioguw  (Ustant)  TVemini,  or  Temma,  on  Captaai 
James'^  Bay,  two  leagues  fiirtber;  Puny,  or  Pom^ 
per&ay,  at  the  same  distance  from  Tremisi^  has 
t#o<7eeks  for  boats  and  good  water ;  Prampraniy 
an  &)gliBh  factory,  two  leagues  ,  further  east ; 
Agrico,  one  league  from  Prampram ;  Ningo  Grand 
or  Fredensborg,  two  leagues  east  of  Agrico,  is  a 
Danish  fort  newly  constructed  j  ei^t  leagues  far« 
th'er  castas  Bafa,  ft>ilr  lei^ues  west  of  the  mouth 

'  «  M  «  of 


•'  A  ttavdler  of  the  beginniiig  of  the  last  century  describe  it  has  haring 
iMrbastiOBt^  <*aolui*l|wl  a  man  «fty  eaiUjr  joinp  ovenilieBk  wUhant  a 


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dtt  ifMtrnia 

^the  Volta,  vmt  of  wUch  is  the  DiiiUi  fiMriof 
Koi^tMi. 

The  dver. VolU)  which  mftmbtB  the  Gc^  aadl 
ShKve  Coasts,  empties  itself  with  gtei^  ««|Mdi^  by^ 
Wide  moi^  bttt  wfaioh  as  crossed  by  a  bar>  that  ia 
inewesfther  only  cast  be  passed  by  hn^  boats*  Its 
idcimly  is  cocrectly  denoted  by  ^e  discolountiQii 
cf  the  sea  water  for  a  consfederable  distaooe^  it 
beii^  the  <mky  liver  theft  produces  this  e£kct  frop 
SKsrraLeene  hither;  from  wfak^  as.w^  as  its 
OYarflowhig  its  faaiiks  iai  NQv<9aher»  a  consideiabie 
4bm  after  die  moiyjeesoii^  whk^  ceaseaia  iUi^^^ 
k  u  supposed  lo  have  a  <:QiisideriMe  \&Bg^  ^ 
course.  It  has  mmo^  is)mls>  nQst<^  ^jAkhu^ 
OfFerAowed  in  the  iintndatioiist  From  the  west 
point  of  the  river's  mouth  a  reef  of  rocks  jtretet^ 
ea  out  flome  distano^  over.  if4uch  tfie  cuyrret*  of 
the  river  rushes  like  a  csAafSCt  |  while  near  the 
e»t  shore  die  water  is.per£ictiiy  sm^odu  On  the 
hA  bmk  of  the  river»  ckise  to  the.jeartraaee^  is 
(ha  Daaifih  fort  of  Pm4i;t€ti%  or  VoU^  aad  0m 
a&i^nd.b  iheriv^  the  &Qtp]y  Of , Addai,.belQq|^ 
tog  to  the  same  iiatioi^.^ . 

€9pe  MondegQ  is  twe  leajTuei  eftit  ai*the  VoitSi 
afiMi  three  league  further  is  Gape  ^Stt^^Hi^  low* 
«Mi  a  ^1  of  Axj  sMddnuim^  out  ^poia  it.  flv^ 
leagues  farther  is  the  !Paiiish  fort  of  Queta,  com- 
municating  with  that  of  Volta  by  a  lagoon.  The 
coast  between  is  I0W9  ^uod  with  fey  trees  s  as  is 
the  coast  to  the.east^  as  .fiur  as  tha^  litUe  PcfM^ 
twelve  leagues  east  of  the  Volta ;  and  the  same 


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THE  WB8T  CQABT  OT  AfiSBCA.  588 

tcppetOMCt  eonthmes  to  Vliidah,  tm  leagues  east  mm^m 
of  little  fopo.    Midway  between  the  two  last  it 
die  Great  Popo>  a  n^^vfllage;  wcatof  wliidk 
a  river  called  the  fiuphratesy  supposed  t6  be  a 
brandi  of  the  Volta,  empties  itself. 

Whidah  (Judah  of  the  French),  also  calledt 
Gleg<^,  is  a  large  n^ro  Tillage,  near  which  the 
French,  English,  and  Partoguese  hare  forts^  a 
pistol-shot  dbtance  from  each  other.  This  part 
of  the  coast,  as  we  have  already  noticed,  is  formed 
by  a  bank  called  the  PrSe,  which  separates  the 
sea  from  a  chain  of  maishy  lagoons.  Two  of  these 
fegoons,  with  an  island  between  tiiei6,  lie  between  » 

the  landing  place  on  the  Free  and  the  European 
factories,  which  are  situated  on  the  terra  firnia  ( 
the  distance  is  near  a  league,  and  Europeans  are 
dbUged  to  be  carried  h%  hammocks  by  n^oes. 
The  French  fi)rt  is  the  lai;gest,  and  is  ofi  an  eie- 
vatimi.  It  is  an  dblong  square,  with  a  tower 
mounting  eight  or  ten  guns  at  each  angle.  The 
,  fqiqper  parte  of  these  towers  to  the  embrasures  are 
9t  day,  as  are  die  curtains  or  enclosing  walb^ 
which  unite  the  towers ;  the  lower  part  of  the 
litter  are  of  brick ;  the  whole  is  surrounded  by  a 
dry  ditch  witiiout  facing.  Within  the  fort  are 
considerable  mi^purines,  and  befioee  the  ^rtraace 
a  large  garden  enclosed  by  mod  walls. 

The  Engli^  fort  is  a  per&ek  aquaie,  with  a 
tower  at  eadi  ai^e  monnting  six  guns;  the 
whol|b  built  of  day,  and  surrounded  by  a  dry 
ditcb.  Tlie  Portuguese  foirt  is  neai^y  mmhuL 
^^aoh  fiut  has  a  spring  of  good  water,  but  the 
2  M  3  difficulty 


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5S4  .     UABITIME.  QS06BAFHT. 

difficulty  of  traHspoHangit  obliges  shipi  to  put  tip 
with  what  tbc^  canpit>cure,  by  sinking  cades  in  tj^ 
Fr6e,  but  thiB  rwater  is  very  unwholesome,  l^be 
coast  is  :here  so  sho^  that  vessels  are  oU^d  to 
anchor  in  nine  ox  ten  &thocns  two  kagues  off; 
htiiding^  is  also'  very  inconvenient^  and  oRexi  im- 
practicable, from  a  sand^mnk  or  bar  which  lines 
the  shore  at  eighty  3^rds  distance,  snd  on  which 
the  surf  breaks  with  great  fury,  while  between  it 
and  the  beach  the  sea  is  comparativetLy  smooth. 

The  kingdom  c^  Ardra  is  east  of  Whidah.  In 
tills  territory  are  Epea  and  Porto  Nova;  the  lat- 
ter is  fifteen  leagues  east  of  Whidah  and  five 
leagues  from  the  sea,  the  distance  between  beii^ 
occupied  by  the  Pr6e  and  by  two  lagoons,  one  of 
which  is  navigable  for  long  boats  a '  certam  dis- 
tance, and  for  canoes  forty  leagues  to  the  north. 
Between  Porto  Novo  and  the  river  Bemn  are;Be- 
dagry  and  Ahoui,  two  trading  places  for  slavM. 
e^itpfBrnk.  The  river  Formosa,  or  of  Benin,  supposed  to 
be  one  of  the  branches  of  the  Nigcfr,  is  osyigakie 
for  smaH  craft  ten  leagues,  to  which  distance  flie 
tide  goes  up.  Eleven  leagues  west  of  this  river  h 
the  river  Primero,  and  between  dian  a  great 
number  of  others.  Before  the  entrance  of  the 
Formosa  is  a  ^eat  flat,  on  the  east  of  which,  and 
close  to  the  east  point  of  the  river,  is  the  duui- 
nel.  Ten  leagues  frcmi  the  mouth  of  the  Fcmnosa 
the  river  of  Benin  proper  empties  itsdf  on  the 
right  bank  ;  ^s  river  may  be  ascencted  eighteen 
leagues,  to  the  village  of  Agatfaon,  by  vessels 

'.'drawing 


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THE  WBffT  COAST  OF  aFBICA.  5S5 

dnmiag  nine  ftet  Nfsur  this  village  the  D^h  c^^it^^min, 
iiad  ^n  es^Ushmenty  destroyed  i|i  about  1747** 
•  Betweeatbe  rivei;  Fonnoaa  jmd  the  cape  of  the 
Mne  name  are  the  livers.. RogQcsun»  £8ci;fHro8,  or 
SkvtB*  Biver^  five  leagues  east  of  Fbrmosa.  It 
hofi  but  two  fathoms  in  the  entrance ;  from  tht 
«Nith  point  of  which  a  sand-bank  runs  out  Cmxt 
leagues,  with  only  three  feet  on  some  parts,  and 
three  &thom9  where  deepest,  and  the  coast  being 
.▼ery  lo^^  its  outer  edge  is  almost  out  of  sight  of 
land.  Rio  dos  For^ados,  or  Galley  Slaves'  River, 
cemmttnicates  with  Rio  dos  Escravos,  though 
their  mouths  are  five  leagues  asunder.  Wary, 
the  residence  of  the  negro  chief  of  this  territory, 
is  five  leagues  up  the  Rio  des  For9ados.  Twelve 
lei^ues  farther  is  Ramos,  or  Boughs'  River,  and 
from  ihe  latter  to  Ciqpe  Formosa  the  shore  is  very 
low,  covered  with  trees,  and  with  several  rivers. 

Ciipe  Eofmosa  separates  the  gulfs  of  Benin  and 
Siaffira ;  it  is  so  low  that  the  trees  on  it  are  the 
first  objects  seen,  and  the  sea  off  it  is  so  iftioaly 
that  a  league  from  the  shore  there  is  only  eight 
fathoms,  and  in  fifteen  fathoms  a  ship  is  out  of 
sight  of  land.  The  bottom  is  a  very  soft  mud» 
evidently  carried  out  by  the  rivers  to  the  east  and 
west  of  the  cape,  all  of  which  are  thought  to  be 
branches  d*the  Niger.   Those  to  the  east  aia  the 

2  M  4  Nm^ 


•  The  town  of  Benin  is  inland  tnm  the  hanks  of  this  river;  it  is  on  » 
plain,  on  which  is  not  to  be  seen  a  single  stone,  sorroonded  hy  a  deep 
ditch,  and  has  the  rcnains  of  an  andont  md  wall    The  ptfnliy<wi  is 


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486  .    MUUTIM9  CSOOBAffitT. 

K»ii,  tbe  Smi  east  of  Cape  Yamast^  aqd 
leagues  from  it ;  it  is  closed  by  a  bar  ev^m 
.bMti$  St  Barhan,  ec  Mea ;  St.  Nidudaa}  Bar* 
belamo;  Sombrmo  (  Rio  Bdal»  or  New  Cakkar, 
befc^e- which  is  Fauko  kbiidt  the  highest  land  on 
ihiB  coast  (^  Homky  Biver»  m.  canaJderablB  ahme 
trading  places  St  Doasiogo,  and  Croas  Rh«r. 
This  latter  has  a  very  wide  numtb,  filled  witk 
jduwls  and  idandiu  Oa  the  east  it  leodnres  the 
livefs  <Mf  (M  Ca}ebar  and  Rio  del  Rey,  vitiA 
f^nninaiea  the  loqg  aucpeasion  of  riyers  that  &I1 
mtio  the  gulf  oi  Guiaea  on  the  north.  Tb^  oeaai; 
on  the  aputh  of  the  Sip  del  Rey  beoMnea  e^* 
tremely  elevated. 

Lower  CKiiiiea  commeoces  with  the  coast  of 
Biaffi:a»  being  limited  on  the  north  by  the  Rio  del 
Rey,  ten  leagues  south  of  which  is  the  Mgji  land 
of  Canverims,  or  Arobozes^  nev  yfkom  sputhwui 
^ittremi<7  4re  the  Amboees  islands,  aU^lfmited, 
pnd  the  eastern  <me  s^id  to  rival  the  peak  of  Twer 
(tfEain  ^heighti  it  has  a  good  port  and  9^^  &^ 
wmtm* 

The  fiver  J^fnpjyor,  or  Caai^fonfli  i^v^ytiaa  it«plf 
)iy  aevfcal  QKMDths  within  the  island  of  F^mipdQ 
Po»  ami  south  of  the  Ambo^es  islands}  ^ 
aoukheromost  of  tl^ese  wovths  is  c#ed  M i^iw^ 
JUvecp  off  the  south  p^lto|^whu:h  19  SuflslM^ 
FCffy  low,  and  q>verod  wilAi  high  trees.*  To  the 
Camerons  i^icceeds  the  Borea,  five  leagues  S.K 

^f 

•  A  tpccfcg  #1  blue  WaMbed  cMral  ii  tOni  up  kmm  Um  focki  tt  thi 
bo^tooii  before  the  River  Ctmeroiii.  .  i 


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THE  WB6T  COAST  OV  AfltlCA.  <97 

ef  Buff  Island ;  it  can  otAy  be  entered  by  boats, 
^ive  leagues  farther  is  Porto  Nao,  or  Pannavia,  to 
which  SQcieeeds  Rio  Campo  and  the  Bio  St  Braito ; 
Ae  latter  with  a  narrow  entftance  between  two 
ateep  shores^Jbut  in  whidi  the  depdi  is  three  or 
ftnr  fathoms^  On  the  north  point  of  the  entrance 
it  a  hiU  called  the  Hay  bam.  Behind  the  river  is 
adonhle  ridge  of  high  mountains,  twelve  or  fifteen 
leagues  from  the  diore,  whioh  latter  is  omertd 
widi  wood.  The  river  St  John  empties  itsdf  into 
a  krge  bay,  between  Ci^  St  John  on  the  north 
and  Cape  Estivas  on  the  south.  Corisco,  or 
Lightning  Island,  in  the  m^ith  of  the  river^  mid- 
way between  these  capes,  is  low  with  barren  and 
sandy  shores,  but  the  interior  wooded;  on  the 
east  side  is  said  to  be  a  bay,  but  ships  seldom  pasa 
within  it 

The  river  Gabon^  of  which  the  norA  poii^t  of 
the  ^atranoe  is  Cape  St  Qara,  is  frequented  by 
Englidi  ttading  vessds,  to  procure  ted  sandal- 
WIxmL  The  chief  trading  places  are  Kings'  and 
Petroquet,  or  Poppinjay,  islands,  five  leagues 
ibove  the  river's  mouth :  the  currents  are  very 
rapid  off  it  Between  the  Gabon  and  Cape  Lopez 
is  Nazareth  River.  Cape  Lopez  Gonzalvep  is  a 
low  point  covered  with  trees,  but  steep;  ot^ite 
nwth  Bide  it  forms  the  bay  of  Ok^tta,  in  which 
is  an  island  and  banh,  and  which  receives  the 
river  of  CMebatta,  usually  cidled  of  Cape  Lopez^ 
The  eoMt  firom  heace.to  Angobt  is  graeralty  low, 
but  freefiwB  danger  oots^e  of  twenty  fal^onM. 

The  river  St  Meoslaaia  nnie  leafots  ^oidAr  of 

Cape 


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Cmpe'ljapezz  a  reef  rum  acrois  ^fhim  &e  smiih 
poiot  txf  the  entranoe  almost  to   imd^^diaiiiid^ 
leavhi^  between  the  reef  and  north  paint  a  pas- 
lage  .iFith  three  to  five  fathoms/     Ten  teagoes 
south  of  Mexias  is  Cama  River,  and  six  leagaes 
fiorther  lim  river  St.  Catharine,,  where  provisivis 
may  be  procured  £rom  a  negro  village,  but  it  is 
necessaiy  to  be  guiorded  against  the  treacheiy  of 
the  negroes*    From  St  CatiiariiK  to  Setter  Kiper^ 
a  distance  of  ten  leagues,  die  coast  is.  lined  with 
rodcB :  in  the  moutfa  of  the  btter  river  tiie  dq>tb 
is  liiree  fathoms. 
^•"v*.        Mi^yumba,  or  AIvaiTez  Martin's  Bay,  is  three 
leaguea  wide  between  Cape  Primero.on  the  north, 
which  makes  in  three  saddle  hills,  and  Cape  Se- 
condo,  or  Matooty,  on  the.  south,  £nom  which  a 
reef  runs  out  to  the  north  one  mile  and  a  half; 
and  off  Cape  Frimero  is  a  sunken  rode  with  but 
twofatfaoms  and  s^ven  fathoms  aU  round.  This  bay 
afibrda  good  anchorage  in  four  to  seven  fathcmis^ 
Ten  leagues  south  of  Mayumba  is  Cape  Sell^e, 
on  the  south  side  of  which,  and  dose  to.  the  main» 
is  a  small  island,  and  two  leagues  fiurther  sMith^ 
and  three  leagues  off  shore,  a  reef  of  breakers* 
KiloQga  River  is  sixteen  leagues  south  of  Cape 
SeUagCj  and  is  dosed  by  a  bar  that  admits  only 
canoes ;  it  is  known  by  a  hill  on  the  north,  with  a 
knob  on  the  summit :  nwth  of  the  river's  mouth  m 
a  large  lagoon.    Steven  leagues  south  of  KikmgOp 
is  Moutas  river,   crossed  by  a  bar  of  sand  and 
stones,  on  whidi  the  dqpth  is  two  fiithoms. 
Loango  Bay  is  sucrouaded  by  red  cli&   fVom 

ito 


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THE  WmT  COAST   OF  AntlCA.  589 

its  south  point  a  reef^  cidled  the  Indian  Bar,  nms  ^r>* 
nearly  half  way  across  the  bay,^  but  within  it  is 
good  anchorage  in  four  fathoms,  three  quarters  of 
a  mile  from  the  shore.  The  surf,  however,  pre- 
vents landing,  except  in  the  canoes  of  the  country. 
Within  the  beach  is  a  lagoon,  named  Barachonas, 
which  communicates  with  the  sea  through  the 
beadn  or  rather  in  high  surfs  the  waves  beat 
over,  the  beadi;  but  when  the  sea  outside  is 
smooth,  the  beach  remains  dry,  and  the  lagDon 
empties  itself  by  filtmtion  and  evaporation :  when 
half  empty  it  may  be  passed  on  foot,  Init  wfaea 
full  it  is  extremely  dangerous. 

Sixteen  leagues  south  of  Loango  is  Malemba^ 
an  open  road,  the  approach  to  which  k  denoted 
by  the  high  mountains  c^  Cacongo,  whid^  lise 
behind  a  bay  of  the  same  name,  into  which  falls 
a  little  river :  the  anchorage  in  this  bay  is  bad« 
Malemba  is  a  mountain,  rising  perpendicnlariy 
from  the  water  to  the  he^t  of  seventy  fathoms, 
and  descending  towards  the  land ;  before  it  is  a 
bar  g£  v<^canic  rocks,  one  mile  and  a  half  from 
the  ^ore,  which  is  sometimes  dangerous  to  pass, 
but  when  within  it,  landing  is  perfectly  co^lmo*- 
liious,  in  a  little  cove  called  Paradise,  or  Canoe 
Oyve,  and  in  another,  named  Sloops  Cove,  is  the 
watering  place ;  the  latter  is,  however,  beat  by 
the  surf,  through  which  the  casks  are  c^Uged  to 
be  swam,  not  without  rific  from  the  sharks.  The 
anchorage  is  outside  the  bar,  a  league  and  half 
from  the  shore.  The  trading  place  is*on  the  sumi- 
ittit  of  the  moontain^  the  ascent  to  which  is 

through 


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540  KAftrrnc^  wooMnnr* 

iiimigh  a  mvine  filmed  by  the  nun^  mmI  n  dA* 
cult  and  suROuiided  by  predfioes,  m  that  a&lsa 
step  may  endaoger  life.  6oat8»  hogs,  and  firuit^ 
afeabmidaiitat  Bdalenba,  aadagieat  dave  tiade 
was  fixmeriy  carried  cm  here  by  the  French*  A 
league  and  half  to  the  &£.  is  the  lagoon  of  Loan* 
goflly  idxmnding  with  fiedi  water  fish. 

Gabenda^  five  leagues  south  of  Matemba,  is 
named  the  Fvadise  of  the  Coast,  fimn  its  agree- 
able atuation,  and  the  ficitity  of  landing.  It  h 
known  by  a  sin^  8iigai4oaf  moontain,  coverad 
wink  wood.  The  sooth  point  of  the  bay  is  named 
Cabenda  Hook,  c^  .£slai4ree  FknubA  :  it  is  k»^ 
kw,  and  covered  with  palm-trees,  and  shdtera 
tiie  bay  on  the  sooth.  The  anchon^  is  widiin 
this  point,  in  four  felhoms,  within  two  nnks  oi 
the  shore,  the  hook  bearing  SJSLW.  ai^  the  sl^ar 
hmt  S.8.E. :  a  amaU  river  Ms  into  the  bay, 
and  receives  boats  at  its  month;  half  a  mile  abow 
which  the  water  is  fiesh,  bot  is  said  to  be  u» 
wholesome.  There  is  also  another  watering  pbcob 
a  little  south  of  the  point  of  the  hook  onthe  sidt 
of  the  sea  :  the  surf  here  readers  watmng  di£» 
icnlt,  but  the  water  which  iaiues  ^finom  a  ^ring 
is  toccellent.  The  tide  never  rises  by  the  ahof^ 
asore  than  ont  inch  iand  afaalf.  The  bay  abounds 
m  fish,  and  has  good  plmu»  for  famli^g  the 
seine. 

Halfway  between  Malemba  and  Cabenda  is  tfaf 
little  river  Beb,  off  which  are  a  line  bi  banks  of 
the  same  name,  whose  noftb  eajtxeo^  is  a  lei^w 
and  half  asuth  ij£  the  iiQbhiMri«a  in,  Mi4sn*a» 

Their 


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THE  mnr  coast  oar  avbica.  SiA 

.Tbeir  appraadi  it  daogecotis,  as  &dre  is  sewft 
6dihom%  dbse  alongside  of  tiiem  f  hence  vessels 
Mfling,  from  Malemfaa  to  iiiB  sooth  are  cantkHied 
4)0  keep  off  in  twelve  fitthoois^  On  tlie*e  banks 
«tt  taken  gnat  ^piaaNitteB  of  Sab^ 

Hie  coast  of  Conoo  commences  at  tiie  liw  <^ 
ZIttiet  which  is  more  umaDy  called  the  Bimr  of 
Congo^  its  native  name  is  BmiiU;  it  is  of  coari* 
deiaiUe  aiae.and  extremely  w^fid,  teating  aw»j 
laige  pieoes  df  die  hankSt  nnd  disoolouring  die 
sea  fin:  a  considecahfe  diitance.^  It  is  seldom 
visited  by  shipe^  and  is  coaMequcntty  very  Ikde 
Jmowm.  The  sooth  point  of  tfie  entcance  is  called 
Monte  Sees,  or  Dry  Thicket  Pointy  and  also  Bomt 
Auimon  and  Filar  Poiiit»  .tibt  latter  ftom  the 
p^btf  ended  here  by  die  Boartagiieser  in,  i484« 
' :fVtnta  Biycis fimc  miles  wide  at  the  cntyflnog^ 
tattftraefnuftoff^Dom  the  north  fwint;  itreosives 
the  river  Lebunda»  in  the  moodi  of  which  is  siz 
te&nrfathponu^  Cooza river  is frarlesgpsssaMkth 
of  Lebunda;  and  five  Ingues  Either  the  rivar 
'  Ambriz,  known  by  a  mountain  to  the  n^rtfa^  with 
a  rack  hkea  tow«r  on  the  summit;  it  eaapties 
imif  vntUn  a  sand  barik,  wfaecb^  thoogh  saoal^ 
shdtars  the  anchorage  wkfain.  it»  when  is  spam 
fiir  a  ooaple  of  ships  in  five&thoms.  Thehmd 
hare  u  low^  flat,  and  oovend  witik  wood.  A 
Isngne  sooth  of  Ambviz  is  a  rocky  pointy  onwhidi 
the  sea  bndu9  with  great  fary.;  and  fiv*  kagues 

farthet 

'  ^  Tbe  corraitftoa  tile  rirer  teu  vtnystroag  to  tbe  N.tC.W.  at  theratt 
^  line  ■Bn  Ml  bow.  THe  sorth  potest  ai*iiTOr'4«tithUIM. 

.      ) 


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54ft  MAUimn  cmoatuamn 

c^nn.  ftrtlier  is  the  mer  Manila  at  Masmda,  whiah  baa 
anchorage  before  its  moulh  in  four  ftitharas.  Be- 
tween thie river  and  Ambrtz^are  lieTeniiilfe,  whkh 
first  make  like  islands;  Daoda  riter,  which  aepap- 
rates  Congo  from  Angoio  PkK^per,  admits  vesaeks 
of  100  tons.    ItialbintoBengobay. 

^«^  '  The  Portuguese  ei^oy  Ihe  exduRve-adverd^ghty 
and  tiade  of  the  country  south  of  the  DandiEu 
fSnr.  Paul  Bt  IJoakdo,  thdr  chief;  setdemeat  iii 
Angola,  is  on  the  south  stmeoif  Bcogo  bay,  aad 
on  an  island  ten  leagues  long,  whksfa  with  a  pemiu^ 
sola  of  the  inah],  imM  a  good  port  Uteeit^vai 
point  of  the  idaad  is  named  Bilmar,  or  Pkdmarai; 
firmn' the  pines  that  cover  it.  . 

The  iwer  Coaasb,  which  separates  Angola  wad 
Benguda^  &Us  iato  Siaeper's  Bay,  between  Cape 
Sambas  on  (he  norths  and  Cspe  Ledo,  or  the  Meiry 
Pdinti  on  the  south.  It  is  onairigaUe:  Ibr  smaii 
vessels  twenty  leagues. 
MfmfMeiM.  On  the  coast  of  Bengueia,/ Ae.oi^  fiaoer  of 
which  we  have  been  able  to  cotteet  any  infbmia- 
tionaine.  Cape  St  Bras,  which  resenddes' Portbnd ' 
in  the.  BngUsh  Chaiulel  Okl  B^igoela^  Ci^ 
Three  Pknnts,  fWl  or  Pkilkt  BiLy,  hasihe  Ftartn- 
gtme  settlement  of  Nova  Rhonda,  £Mirleagaes 
iouth  of  Old  fienguela.  Bay  of  St  Antonia,  St 
Philip  of  Bbnguela,  the  ofaief)9ettiementof.the 
Pbirt^guese  on  tiiis  coast,  is  on  a  deep  bay  fiwaaei 
on  th^  south  by  a  peninsdaj  the  extrenutyef 
which  is  called  Punta  de  Chapeo,  or  Hat  Pointy 
from  asingle  clump  of  trees  on  it ;  the tdiove. qa 
each  side  being  barrel; 

Cow 


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TU£  WEST  COAST  OF  AFRICA.  M8 

Cow  Bay,  of  'whifeh  the  noirfii  ppiiit  is  €s{m 
Sombrero,  ten  leagues  soulJi  of  Punta^  Ckapeb, 
feceifves  the  river  St  Frands,  and  near  the  Cafi^ 
isr  a  salt  pond.  St  Mary^s  Bay  of  the  Porti9i:|eBe» 
or  .Big^ns,  apd  Klapmat'^  Bs^  of  the  Dutch,  d 
whidi  Cape,  St  Roque  is  the  west,  point,  is  three 
leagues  wide»  bwdered.by  a  sandy  beach,  bBtJhas 
no  fresh  water.  .North  of  it  are  the  three  J'liari 
large  rocks.  Sheep's  Bay  siicc^s,  and  receives 
the  Gubbaroro  river,  wfaidi  terminates  liie  coast 
c^.Benguela,.  ^ though  it. appears  the  Poctaigiiese 
lay  claim  to  the  country  farther  soulli.  Between 
Gubbarora  river  and  Cape  Negro  are.  Village  Bay^ 
Rio  4os  Ramos,  or  Branched  River,  Tortqgas 
CKT;  Turtle  Bay,  Little  Fish  Bay,  of  which  Cape 
Eusp?  is  tlia  nN^rth  point,  and  Cape  AnnunciAtioif 
the  90uth. 

;  Cape:  Nf^ro  is  Uie  extremity  of  a  curved  peiftin- 
sok,  forlning,^  on  jts  north  side,  a  lafge  bay, 
fiained  latterly  Port  Alexander,  and  which  appears 
to  be  a  good  harbour.  Betwe^  ttfts  bay^  which 
IS  in  latitude  15"^  52\  and  91  ^  there  is  said*  to  l>e 
no  fresh  water;  on  the  .  coast  In:  thib  extent, 
however,  several  bays  are  marked  in  the  charts ; 
the .  first  of  which.  Great  $&h  Bay,  fimned  by  a 
peninsula  formerly  called  Tyger  Island,  from  its. 
supposed  insularity,  seems  to  be  a  good  port 
The  river  Bembarooge  is  five  leagues  north  of 
this  bay,  and  is  half*a  mile  wide  at  the  entrance.  Xr 
Between  Fish  Bay  and  Walwish  Bay,  the  Por- 
tuguese have  given  names  to  the  principal  head- 
lauds 


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M4  MAKITIME  OX0GSAPKT. 

<^t:r^  kndi,  tt  (kfe  Umy  Fitez,  Cape  FHa,  Ai^^  or 
Bay  of  St  Ambrosio^  Cape  Serta  (Mounbria 
Capa>  Walwiak  Baj,  vipited  by  wfaakiv,  is  dnw 
ki^giiei  nfide  and  two  deqp»  with  good  ancfaon^ 
iheltend  fnmi  all  wittds  bat  oorth ;  apd  the  baj 
being  within  the  Uniti  of  the  &£.  tmde,  north 
winds  Jffe  very  uncommon.  It  teeeives  a  Tirer^ 
and.aevaei  leigoes  west  of  it  is  a  rode  above  water 
eattad  the  Alligator. 

SandwiGh  Harbonr  is  sttiall,  and  with  only  two 
to  three  &thoms  depth.  Spencer's  Bay  fans  • 
greater  depth,  but  being  exposed  to  the  northsnd 
beyond  the  limit  of  the  trade  wind,  it  is  unsafe^ 
j^gtaPeqiMAa  (little  Bay),  m  Santa  Craa^  has 
aevefal  iaiands  before  iif  wUdi  dieker  it  fiom  ail 
wuhdi  i  the  depths  sue  three  and  a  hal^  foor,.  and 
five  fiuhoms.  £lizabeth  Bay  is  formed  by  Possessioa 
Island,  three  miles  from  the  main,  which  dieiters 
it  ijt>m  weBt  to  S.  W. ;  the  dejpth  is  five  ftt**^'^. 
Here  tertoinates  the  Kaflfer  country,  to  whicfa  sue* 
oeeds  the  coiitxtry  of  the  Hottentots. 

Gape  Voltes  is  the  sout^i  point  of  the  entraiuce 
of  the. Orange  or  Giarep  River;  a  bii^  dioai 
ruMoffiTom  itt  and  to  the  soutfa.ate  several  itJanda 
eaUed  Ilheaasecos  (Dry  Mands). 


The  islands  of  Fernando  Po,  Prince/  St.  Tho- 
mas,  and  Annobona,  are  situated  in  the  Gulf  of 
Guinea,  and  chiefly  inhabited  by  negroes.  Ber- 
KANDo  Po,  or  properly  Femand  Faoy  named  firom 

the 


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tlw  P9rtngiiea6  navigator  MFho  disoovMdd  it  in 
}i71»  it  teo  kogMs  diitMit  fir6m  the  mouth  of  tfa» 
lUyer  Camerom*  It  k  twwt^^  Ingute  i»  ciMuitk 
high,  wdl  watered,  and  fat til«  in  asfar^aana^  ijg^ 
and  fniHa.  It  19  nddam  ruked,  attd  is  taid  to  ha 
inhabited  bjr  a  few  safage  oegraeq^  to  haira  gmt 
flaoksofwildgoais,  and  to  faa  mmh  ira^ueotad 
fay iodt.    It  aoninatty b^ngito S^om. 

Prince's  Island  is  about  twMtf  ^seraa  laagtua 
distant  £rom  Cape  St.  John^  and  derives  ita  iMUBf 
ftaaaits  rerannas  being  assigned  to  the  Prince 
fiojral  af  Partugal.  It  was  diaaorered  iil  1471^ 
It  is  id)Ottt  thirty  leagues  in  oireuit»  elevated,  w«tt 
watered,  frattAil,  and  healthy.  On  the  north  sida 
is  a  good  faaiboor  and  town  of  £00  hguses.  TkA 
whole  p^ojation  is  said  to  he  10,000,  of  whoai 
very  few  are  whites.  There  is  a  good  watezidg*- 
place  in  the  east  side,  from  a  little  stream  which 
rushes  down  the  mountain's  side  over  a  bed  of 
pebbles.  Bullocks,  goats,  and  hogs  are  abundant* 
There  are  some  islets  and  rocks  round  this  island, 
particularly  a  high  round  roek  off  the  west  side, 
called  the  Dutchman's  Cap. 

St.  Thomas's  Island  is  forty  leagues  west  of  the 
river  Gabon,  is  nearly  round,  and  about  thirty 
leagues  in  circuit.  It  is  considered  unhealthy, 
and  has  not  above  3,000  inhabitants,  chiefly  in  a 
little  town  on  the  N.E.,  before  which  is  good  an- 
chorage ;  besides  the  refreshments  it  affords  to  ves* 
sels  trading  on  the  coast,  it  sends  some  sugar 
and  ginger  to  Lisbon.  There  are  some  rocky  islets 
on  the  north,  south,  and  east  sides. 

VOL.  u.  2  k  Anno-Bona 


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546  *     MABITIME  GBOGRArar^ 

Anno-Bona  derives  its  name  firom  having  been, 
discovered  by  the  Portogoese,.  on .  new  year's  day 
1526.  It  is  forty-five  leagues  firom  Cape  Lopez^ 
is  seven  or  eight  leagues  in  circuit,  rising  ik  two 
h^h  hills,  whose  summits  are  generally  enve* 
loped  in  douds,  and  on  one  of  them  is  said  to 
be  a  lake  of  pure  wat^.  The  idand  produces  all 
the  fiiuts  of  the  tropics,  together  with  excellent 
cotton,'  and  abounds  in-  domestic  animals  and 
poultry. 

The  climate  is  good,  the  atmospha^  beiog 
purified  by  constant  breezes.  The.  inhabitanta 
are  negroes  converted  by  the  Portuguese  to  the 
Catholic  faith.  The  island  has  been  ceded  to 
S^fMun,  who,  however,  has  not  yet  taken  ^cient 
poooofloion  of  it  The  best  anchorage  is  on  the 
-N.E.  side. 


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NOTES  TO  VOL.  U. 


<A>^Pftge  61. 

As  the  great  majority  of  our  readers  are  probably  unacqiudottd 
witk  the  nature  of  the  piiDkhment  of  keel'hauikig  and  nmiitii^. 
^legmniiei,  we  offer  tbeni  tbe  following,  explanation.  Ked^ 
bauling»  whidi  seems  to  have  been  originally  invented  by  the 
Dntch,  and  has  never  been  adopted  by  the  English^  is  thas  per- 
£ormed :  the  culprit  is  placed  in  a  chair^  to  which  is  attached 
ropes  rove  through  blocks  at  each  mainyard  ann>  one  of  which 
|8  passed  under  tbe  keel^  and  a  weight  sufficient  to  sink  it  with 
▼elocity  is  also  fastened  to  tbe  chair.  When  hoisted  up  to  the 
yard  arm^  the  rope  is  suddenly  let  go^  or  in  the  sea  phrase,  by 
the  run,  and  as  tbe  culprit  sinks,  the  rope  at  the  opposite  yard 
iu-m  is  hauled  in^  by  which  means  he  passes  under  the  keel^  and 
is  pulled  up  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  ship  from  which  he  went 
down.  In  a  line  of  battle  ship  he  may  be  under  water  from  a 
minute  to  a  minute  and  a  half,  and  the  dip  is  repeated  niore  or 
less  according  to  the  nature  of  the  offence. 

Running  the  gauntlet*  appears  to  derive  its  name  from  the 
old  chivalric  custom  of  throwing  down  a  glove  or  gauntlet  as  a 
general  challenge^  the  challenger  being  bound  to  fight  all  those 
in  succession  who  accepted  the  challenge. 

The  modern  punishment  is  thus  inflicted :  the  sbip*s  company 
being  drawn  up  in  lines,  along  the  decks,  and  each  man  pro- 
vided with  a  nettle  (two  rope-yams  twisted,  witL  a  tingle  knot 

2  N  2  at 

•  Coitrir  la  bouline  in  French.  We  hazard  tbe  deriyation  without  gna- 
raateeiiig  it ;  accordhig  to  the  Encjfclftdkiy  the  proper  word  is  gaunthpt. 


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548  MARITIlfE  GfEOGRAPHt. 

at  one  ead),  tbe  culprit  is  produced  witii  his  back  na&ed^  at  the 
foremost  end  of  the  rank.   The  hoatswain  seii  him  q^  with  half  » 
dosea  lashes  of  the  eat  o*  nine  taili>  and  each  man  as  he  pasaes 
whips  him  with  his  nettle;  bat  as  this  wonld  be  a  Tery  trifling 
ponishment  was  he  alUwed  to  make  tbe  best  of  his  way;   the 
master  aJt  arm$  precedes  him,  holding  the  point  of  a  sword  to  his 
breast,  so  that  he  has  only  the  alternative  of  being  run  throagh 
or  marching  at  a  Ycry  slow  paccf  the  dmm  beating  die  ro^fne'a  mardk 
also  precedes  him.    This  punishment,  though  unauthorised  by 
our  naTal  code  of  discipline,  has  beea  yery  frequently  inflicted 
by  eomiuenders  of  ships  of  war,  fof  aggfUffifeu  tanft  awl  i 
c^mm  5  the  firtel  residts  of  it,  however,  in  samal  is 
where  it  has  caused  the  death  of  the  eulpriti,  whkhbydMlM^ 
eao  only  be  considered  as  murder,  ought  to  deter  fran  tbb  flla« 
gal  stretch  of  power,  partkuluiy  as  our  nerval  artioles  of  wac# 
and  the  legitimate  custouM  itf  the  sertiee  ariaiag  €fm  ihme^ 
give  to  oottflUtfritrs  ^ate  nf^eiaifpewetf  of  puoishmnir 

(B)— Page  125. 

Scylla  and  Charybdis  are  described  by  Homer  and  other.carfy 
poets  as  two  great  monsters,  whose  mouths  were  constantly 
open  to  devour  the  hapless  navigator  that  came  within  their 
reach.  Virgil,  less  poetical  believed  Charybdis  to  be  an  abyss 
communicating  with  Tauromenium,  thirty  miles  distant;  and 
Strabo,  adopting  the  same  opinion,  asserts  that  the  wrecks  of 
vessels,  swallowed  by  the  whirlpool,  were  at  times  regorged  at 
Tauromenium. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  but  that  the  danger  of  passing  dirou^ 
the  Strait  of  Messina  was  much  greater,  even  in  the  time  of  the 
latest  of  the  ancients,  than  at  present,  not  only  from  the  greater 
frailness  of  their  vessels,  but  also,  because  it  may  be  presumed 
that  the  strait  was  then  narrower,  and  the  rocks  nearer  the  sur- 
face, and  consequently  the  currents  more  impetuous  and  irrr- 
gular  than  we  now  find  them. 

(C)-Page  219. 
The  Venetian  navy  was  divided  into  two  squadrons,  the  first 
nimed  the  dmwta  gv-oNO,   formed  of  ships  and  Jidhecs,  aad  the 

second 


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«econd,  JbfMta  wMk,  eompoMi  of  pUAts,  and  other  Tcfttck 
with  oars.  ,  Both  tlieM  tqpnUlrqiii  were  mder  the  immediate 
eomauoDLd  of  9L  providateur  general.  The  Jrmata  grotsa  in  lattftf 
timet  consisted  of  six  to  eight  third  rates,  three  to  five  frigates, 
And  as  many  xebees.  The  officers  were  the  eapiian  id  namp  oi 
▼ice-adrairal,  with  a  flag  at  the  mam ;  tiie  aminmU,  or  liai« 
tenant-general,  with  a  tag  at  the^bre^  and  the  patrmni,  or 
commodore,  with  a  flag  at  the  mium,  fiadi  Tessei  was  aoor 
manded  l»y  a  ncMe  Veuctiatt,  with  the  title  of  gownuAor  dj 
m&ae,  and  in  his  ahsenee  the  eoesniimd  devolved  on  ibe  con^ 
tnnidlng  oflker  of  the  troops  ierring  on  baanU  jointly  with  a 
n&Tal  officer,  who  had  the  title  of  cupitem,  and  who  navigated 
the  vessel.  Tlie  dnmta  suMils,  from  being  the  most  antfant, 
tfxA  preoedence  of  the  drmoUi  grotH.  It  consisted  ktte^y  of 
•Ex  or  eight  galleasses,  or  gallies>  as  mny  gaUiata,  osd  Mmo 
brtgantiaes,  and  was  chieiyatatl^nadameiif  the  Ionian  Uandl* 
The  chief  officers  w«re  the  wpUmn  di  f«9^«  or  vsoe<>admisal»  the 
pr&oidaiw  ^mrnata,  Vetttenant-genend,  whose  station  was  the 
coast  of  AAania  and  Corfu,  die  geneTnatvr  delta  eoniamdig 
(literally  governor  of  the  galley  slaves)  er  eommodare»  wiio 
cruised  among  the  other  Ionian  Islands*  Each  galley  was  com- 
■iinrird  by  a  mfprm^comUo,  a  noble  Vienetian^  who  hoisted  a 
hroad  pendant.  The  admiral's  gaVej;  named  hastarda  (bas- 
iai4)#  vfts  Buicbiarger  than  the  others,  gaudily  gilded^  and  never 
Wicnt  to  sea  but  when  the  providator  generiU  himself  hoisted  his 
tag. 

The  gtdi/me  was  a  broad  low  vetssd,  with  three  masts^  and 
with  from  thirty  to  fifty  oars,  with  seven  slaves  to  each,  besides 
about  100  seamen,  a  body  of  fidavonian  soldiers,  and  a  few  ar« 
tiliery  men.  The  ordnance  of  the  first  rates  were  from  thirty  to 
fifty  guns,  and  the  whole  complement  l<^0  to  IMO IMU  |  thesfc 
vessels  had,  however,  been  latterly  laid  aside. 

ThegnZ/^was  much  flatter  than  the  gaHeaase,  had  hot  two 
masts,  twenty  to  thirty  oars,  with  five  men  to  oikAi,  thirty  < 
men,  a  company  of  Sdavonmns ;  in  all  900  men.  f«i  the  ] 
Xhey  carried  an  eighteen  pounder  and  four  sixes,  with  asmsb  «• 
the  quarters  and  stem. 

•  2  N  3  The 


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S50  MARITIME  P£OGRAPHT« 

Tbe  galUotswtrt  maoiied  etttirelj  by  Sclayonians^  tviio  were 
both  soldiers  and  sailors*  They  carried  Ibor  six  poimdiert  in 
their  bow. 

*  The  brigantinei  were  a  kind  of  half  galliots,  mounting  two  }arge 
swivels^  and  manned  by  eighteen  Sclayonians.  AU  these  ves- 
sels were  prc^iuely  covered  with  carving,  which  being  at  the 
expense  of  the  commander,  a  new  one  was  obliged  to  pay  bis  pre* 
deoessor  for  these  ornaments,  or  else  the  latter  |iad  the  liberty  of 

.  takhig  them  off,  which  was .  often  done  tp  ornamept  his  house. 
The  rank  of  tibe  chiefs  obliged  them  to  keep  three  mfiaicianSy 
two  mnning  footmen,  and  two  lofuaii  in  livery,  white  the  cap- 
tains  were  limited  to  two  laquais, 

•  All  the  infmor  oflkers,  f^om  the  cojpiUan  iaohisive  down- 
wari>  ^i^ere  taken,  from  .the  merchant  service^  and  purchased 
their  appointments,  which  they  made  lucrative,  by  supplying 
the  crew  with  provisions,  the  govmment  only  finding  biscoit- 
The  seamen  Were  procured  by  re^er ;  but  as  they  were  badly 
fed  and  paid,  they  generally  deserted  whenever  an  opportunity 
offered,  and  in  every  other  respect  the  Venetian  marine  was  xs^ 
latter  years  a  mere^do^  without  ^ul^stance. 

(D) -Page  282. 
Port  Marmprice  is  one  of  the  best  harbours  of  the  Medi- 
terranean, having  capacity  for  the  largest  fleets  ;  it  is  surroond* 
ed  by  lofty  monntaiDs,  wooded  to  their  summits,  andgeneraUy 
separated  by  narrow  vallies,  through  which  run  clear  streams, 
imparting  freshness,  and  nourishing  a  luxuriant  vegeCstioo. 
The  town  of  Marmorice  Is  insignificant,  having  but  one  mosque. 

(E)— Page  290. 
The  Druses  Qccupy  the  trjict  of  coa3t  between  (xebail  and 
Sidon  5  they  ar^  but  nominally  subject  to  the  Porte,  being  go- 
verned by  a  chief,  stiled  the  Grand  Emir^  who  resides  at  Beirut. 
They  are  a  handsome,  yell  mad^,  and  rpbust  race^  speak  the 
Arabic  language^  and  are  hospitable  to  strangers.  Their  red^ 
gious  tenets  are  imperfectly  known,  bqt  they  offer  their  praycrt 
indifferently  in-the  Gree)L  churches  and  christian  mosques,  and 
appear  to  approach  nearer  to  Christianity  than  Mahom^tamsn  ; 

«hna 


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i9on8.  551 

tlMis  th^  bdiETe  the  tmnumktecoiioeptioii^  and  boM  that  the 
Messiah  has  already  appeared  on  earth  several  times,  under  dif' 
^prept  lerint>  and  that  he  will  a^n  retam  j  they  worship  saints 
and  images^  but  also  observe  the  feast  of  the  Ramazan,  and  act* 
mit  a  phiraiity  of  females^  but  only  one  wife,  the  others  being 
COQCobiues.  It  has  been  supposed  that  these  people  are  the  de* 
acendants  of  some  French  soldiers  that  remained  in  Palestine 
after  the  Crusades. 

(F)— Page  349. 

-  Itbetng observed  that  the  heliaeal  risingof  iSMispreceded  a  few 
flKmungs  the  riseof  theNile,  this  star  thence  received  the  popular 
appellatidn  of  the  DogHar,  in  alhision  to  the  fidelity  of  the  dog, 
who  wan*B  his  master  to  remove  his  property  from  impendiug 
danger,  so  the  rising  of  the  star  warns  him  to  gnard  against  the 
lavages  of  the  stream. 

(G)— Page  ^49. 

:  The  crocodile  is  an  animal  of  the  lizard  (laceria)  genus,  btfv-^ 
ing  the  body  covered  with  scales,  end  the  feet  with  claws.  It. 
afrives^  at  the  length  of  twenty  to  thirty  feet,  is  covered  vnth 
s<|Qare  scales,  overlapping  each  other  like  the  slates  of  a  house* 
roof,  and  which  on  the  back  are  so  strong  as  to  repel  a  mns- 
quet  ball.  Its  immense  mouth  is  studded  with  thirty  or  more 
^larp  pointed  teeth  of  considerable  length,  curved,  and  in- 
terlocking with  each  other ;  the  legs  are  short,  but  strong  and 
muscular ;  die  fore  feet  have  five  toes  nnwebbed ;  the  hind 
feet  four  toes  ouly,  nnked  towards  their  base  by  a  web ;  the. 
interior  toe  of  each  foot  is  withoat  a  claw,  the  othera^iate  very 
strong  and  sharp  ones. 

The  crocodile  is  little  to.bjB  dreaded  out  of  the  water,  as  it 
never  attacks,  but  on  the  c<)iktrary„  aa  the  ^»proacbof  a  man, 
iMBediately  makes  fpr  the  water*  In  its  proper  element  it  is, 
however,  as  voracious  as  the  shark,  and  is  the  most  formidable 
animal  of  the  rivers  of  Africa  and  Asia^  watching  by  the  banks 
to  seize  any  animal  that  enters  the  water,  with  which  it  in- 
stantly dives^  Mid  does  not  reappear  till  hunger  agaon  is  fek.    ' 

2  H  4  .     The 


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39tt  MABiriHS  «MGKAPHT, 

Tbo  etdoodfle  is  m  tfoipvMt  ttilMiU  4«|NMMfalg  itt  eggj^g 
HHMk  art  ^  tin  of  thoM  of  Ait  gfMt,  \tk%^%  loM  w  lftii# 
Bfiar  tht  huok$  of  rivm,  attd  Mitoh  m«  IiMcIm4  Hy  tl^  tnim 
mxmh;  tm  tfMin^  At  skdli  lh«  yeoog  iiiiUMly  i>il»i  Cht 
#10  ^TBttr.  Tlit  onkiplloatioo  of  tbte  dettnmiirt  *»tei«d  ifr 
gttedy  reduce  hf  tfat  dettmetioii  of  lU  eggi  by  tte  iebi 
aRNi,  olid  oitbar  inim&if.  TlM»  temkf  ttftted  flab  of  tlM^ 
codile^  as  well  as  its  eg gs^  are  considered  deikftte  Ibod  hy 
n^roes.  Two  errors  retpetdttg  tfat  ^oatomy  of  tbis  anii 
ha?e  beeo  latUrly  Rotifiad«-flrst»  tbat  tbe  iip^  jai^  i»  mao^e^ 
able  I  and  secondly,  that  it  bas  no  Mlgvc  Tbt  p^ebo  idUb 
of  tbe  crocodile  sbeddiog  tears  over  ia  proyj  di>es  n«t  w^Bsm 
to  b«  seriously  refuted*  Tbii  aaima  is  IboogM  to  be  tte 
IcTiatban  of  tbe  scripCunB* 

The  crocodile  is  met  in  all  tbe  rivers  of  Africa  bctwaea  thoi 
tropics,  and  in  many  of  those  of  Asia  and  America. 

The  crocodile  of  tbe  Sehegdt  A\EttH  from  that  of  tbe  Nile, 
dmiy  in  eoloari  beieg  akiid«t  tntiiBly  \AUk.  Tbe  Mlbtio 
«kt>codik  !s  alio  foUn4  in  tb(i^««r. 

Itie  oUi^iilDri  or  Am^iton  tiMOdtlt^  «liMed  M|r«^ 
knls,  is>  by  MMDt  uaiAf^tiftti*  tiioagbt  to  bt  *«iet«  tftflcty  nOm 
thmn  a  s(Mi«s,  wbite  oib^rt  dMcHVe  it  aft  spedic^y  ^HstkM 
fnm  tbut  of  the  N)fe.  tht  itost  eoospi^MM  di^Rftreaee  it  tiM 
snout  bting  tfttfer,  wMe^,  Mid  more  obtiise>  tbto  tbaC  of  tbe 
Utttr.  It  attives  M  M  equal  altte,  and  is  wtt  In  fgnkxtmrn^ 
bers  in  aH  tb*  ri nsrft  nf  Aatetic*  betwe^  tbe  t^opits.  tt  bIm 
is  (bund  as  Air  Aortb  on  thh  eoitt  of  Cakotfba  et  $4^* 

Tb«  tfooodite  ^  tbe  QMgts  f»  b  tOttpiiMRnlsly  iitfcicnc 
cies  from  tbat  of  Africa  or  America,  baring  a  leng  ond 
eboet  tHOi  tb^  teeth  MbOb  tbieker  tbin  In  tbe  otber  tptciil. 

Thie  b)pp5p«>tldlM8  fs  «  iFiHt  MMid  iobabltfng  tbe  totiM 
»Me,  «ttd  ebMy  tb«  riters  of  MtnA^  wbose  banks  «% 
swampy.  DtiriAg  tb«  day  it  eottceali  itself  under  tbe  «Mler> 
otittsionally  Helftg  lt>  tbe  s^rCkee  to  tespii^,  but  ait  aigbt  ft 
gMft  to  shore  to  feed,  d«yoiiHng  gnat  ^iiaiiUtiei  of  berbftg% 
and  tbb  yoiiag  tboou  of  treeS)  btfng  VMtkely  biutoain.  ft 
IpbiN  to  tbe  size  of  a  modeltit*  elephant,    and  is  eyen  more 

dums^ 


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fAamtj  and  uncouth  in  Hi-  irppesrttiQe.  In  the  lower  jvw 
{hbMtn  other  latge  ftroog  ieeth)  are  two  teaki«  measnring 
iighUliU  iBlhei  to  two  feet  in  length,  and  wei^iin^  four  ta 
•ight  poondft,  end  cf  a  tnperior  irory*  The  ^in  is  a  dirtj 
gglottr»  Allt  of  wrinkles,  thinlf  sprinkled  with  hairs,  and  of 
gvcae  strength*  The  bippopotamus  never  attacks  man  or  other 
a^jmah  on  land,  but  when  wounded  in  t^e  water  it  become^ 
IbrioaB.  It  brings  Iburth  but  one  jo«ing  at  rntimey  in  the  marshy 
iaiets  of  rivers. 

Both  the  erocodile  attd  the  hippopotamus  were  known  to 
llito  ancieat  Romans,  and  were  introduced  in  the  public  sigfkta 
wUh  whieh  the  peopk  of  the  capital  were  amused*  The  hifm 
popotamus  appears  to  be  the  behemoth  of  the  scripture.* 

(H)— Page  364. 

The  eoairtnerelal  oominnnieation  between  Cairo  and  Suei  is 

1»]r  oara^ns,  whlefa  quit  dtt  fermer  city  between  June  and  Au« 

gmrt>  when  the  Jndda  ships  anrite  at  the  latter.      The  caravans 

■jrt  composed  oi  three  to  five  thousand  camels,  and  five  to  eight 

liweuaami  Bien.    The  raerchandiae  from  Soei  consists  of  timber^ 

inilB>    oerdage,    and  anchors  for  the  Judda  ehips,  iron  bars^ 

carded  wool,  lend,  bales  of  cloth,  and  provisions  for  the  fcamvan 

dmring  ita  short  stay  at  Suei>  but  chiefly  e<»ned  aaoneyi    The 

retumi  are  coffee  and  India  goods.    A  considerable  ni^o^ber  of, 

pigviios  'for  Mecca  alto  aecompany  the  caravan.    Cairo  is  also 

tiieemporlom  of  the  commerce  of  Abyssinia,  from  whence  an 

aamnal  cat^ven  arrives  with  1,000  to  1,200  black  skves,   ele* 

pbaiiU*  teeth   gold  du8t»  ostrich  feathers,  gaon,   parrots,   &c. 

Another  caravan,  chiefly  of  pilgrims,  also  arrives  at  Cairo  frena 

Morocco^  whieh  coUeots  in  k$  pessage  all  the  pilgilms  df  Bar^ 

bury.     These    diibeat   caravans^    together  with    the   trade 

from  Europe,  produce  to  Cairo  an  active  commerce  of  six  mil* 

liom  eterlhig. 

The 


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5A4  HARITIIO;  ^BOGBAPHT. 

.<!)— Puge  415. 

The  cantharides,  or  Spanish  fly,  does  not  braed  ia 
but  arrives  in  great  swanns  from  Asia  Bifinor  and  Bgypt  sbonft 
the  end  of  May.  Their  approach  is  announced  by  a  d»- 
agreeable  smell  in  the  atmosphere  resembling  volatiie  aOcaU, 
and  they  alight  on  the  olive  trees  in  preference^  to  feed  csn 
their  leaves.  The  method  of  taking  them  is  by  spreaiKng  abeeU 
under  the  trees,  and  towards  sun-rise,  when  dw  insecra  a*e 
weakened  by  the  night's  cold  and  unable  to  fly,  the  brsncbet 
ire  beaten  with  poles,  ttod  the  flies  falling  on  the  sheets  are 
gathered  into  leather  bags,  and  when  dead. are  dried  In  the 
snn.  The  wholesale  price^  when-dry^  is  five  to  six  sidllloga  tke 
ounce.  "  .    * 

(K)— Page  420. 

''  Every  object,  moral  and  physical,**  says  Mr.  ^£ton»  **  the 
fair  face  of  nature,  and   the  hitdlectoal  energies  qf  the  inha* 
bitants,  have  alike  been  blasted  and  defiled  by  the  harpy  touch 
of  Tuitish    t3n'anny;**    hence  the  degraded  character  of  the 
modem  (keeks.    The  Turks,  unlike  the  ancient  Romina^  who 
conquered  only  to  improve,  have  never  admitted,  the  cooqueced 
people  to  a  participation  in  the  rights  of  citi;EeDS,  .anless  tbey 
abjured  their  religion  ;     on  the  contrary,   they,  and  their  pos- 
terity were  considered  aa  slaves,  who  were  only  permitted  to 
redeem  their  lives,  by  the  payment  of  the  price  set  on  them. 
The  Greeks  are  excluded  from  all  offices  of  state ;    it  b  dei^ 
for  them  to  marry  a  Turkish  woman,  or  even  to  cohabit  with 
a  prostitute  of  that  persuasion.      In  the  course  of  justice,   the 
testimony  of  a  Greek  is  not  admitted  when  cootradiciied  by 
that  <^  a  Turk.       It  is   death  to  wear  the  same  di^ess  as  a 
Turk;    and    even    their    houses    are   painted  of  a   diffsreoi 
colour. 

The  prominent  faults  of  the  Greek  character  .are  6iq>er8ti^ 
tion  and  revenge,  assassination  often  terminating  their  disputes, 
a  want  of  probity  in  their  ^dealings  with  strangers,  an  imau>« 
derate  ambition  for  trifling  distinctions^  and  a  great  frivolous* 

ness 


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VOTES.  555 

nest  and  levity  of  manner,  wbicb  forms  a  marked  contrast  with 
the  taciturnity  and  gravity  of  the  Turks. 

Jn  general  information  they,  however,  far  excel  the  latter, 
as  well  as  in  invention,  imagination,  and  forcible  oratory. 
Neither  do  they  want  for  natural  energy  of  character  or  personal 
courage,  both  of  whicbhave  been  exeoaplified  in  their  revolta 
•gtiost  the  Tufkish  despotism,  which  they  certainly  might 
tht&w  off  without  difficulty,  could  they  be  brought  to  a  gene* 
nl  anion,  but  their  religious  disputes  are  an  obstacle  to  all 
unity  of  design. 

■  In  general  the  Greek  islanders  have  grand  and  noble  features, 
and  are  also  in  tbeir  characters  the  least  degraded  of  their  na« 
tion,  though  those  of  Zante  and  Ce£A>nia  are  accused  of  being 
particularly  notorions  for  stabbing  with  their  knives, 

(L)-Page  433. 

Successive  maritime  aggrandizement  of  Russia. 

A.D. 

1$79  ^ov^  Zeiobla  inporporated  with  Russia. 

J  696  Kamtscl^atka  taken  possession  of. 

Azoph  takeu,  but  lost  by  the  defeat  of  Pruth  in  1711. 

1718  I  ^°S"*  conquered  and  Peter^uig  founded. 

'  The  Kurile  and  Aleuntian  islands  rendered  tributary. 

1721  Livonia,  Estonia,  and  a  part  of  Finland  ceded  by  Swe- 
den to  Russia. 

1738  The  Tchouktches  rendered  tributary. 

1 743  Sweden  ceded  the  prorince  of  Kymenegard  in  Finland. 

1774  The  Turks  cede  to  Russia  the  territory  of  Azoph,  the 
tract  between  the  Dnieper  and  the  Bog,  and  some  fortresses  in 
the  Crimea. 

1784  The  sovereignty  of  the  Crimea,  the  eastern  part  of 
the  country  of  the  Nogay  Tartars  on  the  Sea  of  Azoph,  the 
territory  of  Kuban,  and  the  IsleofTaman  ceded  to  Russia  by 
the  Turks. 

1791  The  Turks  cede  the  district  between  the  Bog  and  the 
Pniesten 

1796  Conrbnd 


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556  BIARITIMB   GEOGRAPHY. 

1795  Courland  incorporated  with  Russia. 
1808  Swedish  Finland  ceded  to  Russia. 
1812.  Turkey  ceded  the  territory  between  the  Dniestsr  toad 
Pnith. 

(|f)^p«ge441. 

Hie  mmkgnffe  {r^hnpet^),  paiekgoier  of  fhe  Frtach,  hat 
MYeral  tpeciei^  which  grow  kt  water  or  on  the  Barshy  banktf 
xii  the  riTcrs  of  the  tropict.  'fhefir  brancbei  be&d  dowawarde 
and  take  root,  and  from  these  roots  again  spring  up  new  stauM^ 
to  that  a  tingle  tiee  will  la  tieae  eofer  a  mik  of  grouid.  The 
bark  is  sometimes  ttsed  for  tanning,  and  the  wood^  whieh  is  etoas 
gndned  and  very  beaty,  eldeiy  for  Aid;  partiariniyby  thippiag^ 
it  being  osuaHy  tike  most  conteniently  got  at.  Outers  «re  frfr- 
quently  found  attached  to  the  branches  which  descend  into  the 
water,  and  hence  the  old  woman*i  story  of  these  fish  grotoijig^ 
upon  trees. 

There  are  two  other  species  of  mangrove,  named  die  red 
and  white,  from  the  colour  of  their  wood,  which  grow  on  the 
sandy  beaches  of.  the  sea,  but  not  in  the  water. 

(N}~ftige441, 

Naturalists  xsackou  thirty-five  species  of  sharks  fiqualus)^ 
twelve  of  which  are  net  in  the  British  seas*  The  general  dia* 
racters  are  head  obtuse,  from  four  to  seven  spiracles  at  the  side 
of  the  neck,  mouth  beneath :  teeth  gepergliy  serrated  and  vtery 
sharp.  The  shark  is  an  oceanic  fish«  though  some  species  are 
also  met  with  ia  medi^emnean  ae^  They  bring  forth  their 
young  alive,  and  from  Bvt  t»  twenty  at  a  tiwe.  A  few  apedes 
foed  on  moUusca  and  marine  worms,  but  most  of  theqpi  are 
«Uremely  vor^oos^  swa)lpw|ng  whatever  eome^  in  Ihw  way. 
Their  skins  a^e  ased  for  p^Usbii^  wooi^  their  livers  afford « 
quantity  #f  oiV  and  tbfir  fins  a  white  fibre  used  by  anglers  i 
the  fins  are  also  a  very  merchantable  article  in  the  China  mar- 
ket, being  itted  in  soj^ps* 

The  species   most    commonly  met  with  arc,     1.  The  spot- 

te4.dQg  fiA  (canUula),  common  on    our  coasts,    voracious, 

,  and 


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add  feeds  cbi«fiy  on  fishes.  2.  The  rode  shark  (i^eUdrti),  re- 
sma^let  the  last,  bat  feeds  on  worms  and  crustaoBous  aoiinab. 
3.  Tope  {gdkm)j  Brttisb  seas^  yerj  voraeious.  4,  Hammer- 
beaded  {x^ga»a)»  peculiarly  hideoas,  aad  one  of  the  most  ra- 
pacious of  the  genns^  grows  to  the  length  of  six  feet«  inhabits 
the  £oropeaa,  American^  and  Indian  seas,  and  the  Mediter- 
ftaaran«  5.  Longtailed  '{vulp$$),  seTen  feet  long^  exceedingly 
voracioQBj  European  seas.  6.  Basking  shark,  or  smI  fish 
{m$xmu$).  The  largest  of  the  genus  inhabits  only  the  cold 
acM  J  is  from  fifteen  to  thirty  feet  in'length,  the  teeth  not  ser* 
nated.  It  differs  also  from  all  the  other  species,  in  feediag  only 
cm  sea-plants,  at  least  nothing  else  is  crer  fonnd  in  its  boweb  :. 
the  Iffvar  affords  six  to  eight  barrels  of  oil,  which  is  an  object  of 
oommerce  on  the  west  coast  of  Scotlaod^  and  other  places  to- 
wards the  north :  the  skin  abo  furnishes  a  superior  shagreen^ 
7.  The  white  shark*  {cafcharxas),  the  terror  of  sailors  in  warns 
oHmates,  .is  the  most  voracious  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  deep. 
The  oaouth  opens  to  a  great  extent,  and  the  jaws  are  fiimishe4 
with  three  rows  of  triangular  very  sharp  and  semtted  teetb« 
Irfaich  interlock  when  the  mouth  is  shut,  and  which  can  be  raised 
or  laid  HitX  at  will.  The  mouth  is  situated  so  far  behind  the 
nose^  on  the  under  part  of  the  head,  that  the  fish  is  obliged  to 
turn  on  its  mde  to  seize  its  prey  ;t  which  consists  of  every 
species  of  animal  matter,  not  even  sparing  its  own  species* 
This  voracity  is,  however,  often  the  C4use  of  its  destruction,  €or 
though  it  seems  at  times  to  have  a  sentiment  of  the  treacherous 

hook 

*  Regain  of  the  French,  accordiag  to  La  Cepede  from  requiem,  signifying 
"  the  repose  of  death:* 

f  Natoralists  have  generaHy  described  the  shark  as  tumit^  on  its  back 
to  seize  its  prey,  while  others  doubt  thfai  pecnliarfty.  That  U  tiims  oa  its 
side  and  not  on  its  back  seems  to  be  the  real  feet,  and  is  prored  by  the  ibk* 
Iswing  dnamMCance :  the  bade  of  tiK  shark  is  of  a  dark  ash  toloor,  that  of 
the  beUy  nsariy  approaches  to  white;  in  seising  its  prey,  whioh  it  does 
with  the  quickness  of  Ughtnitig,  a  glance  of  whitish  light  is  seen  in  the 
water,  which  appears  to  proie^.-d  from  the  beliy  of  the  fish  being  brought  to 
▼Jew, 


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558  MARITIME   G£OGRAPfiT. 

fiook  which  the  seaman  baits,  by  often  approaching  and  smeN 
iing  to  t£e  meat  and  again  retiring,  it  almost  invariably  con-^ 
dudes  by  rushing  forward  and  swallowing  it  with  a  seeming 
desperation.  It  has,  however,  been  observed,-  that  the  shark 
will  not  touch  a  fowl  with  the  feathers  on,  and  also  that  it  at« 
tacks  negroes  in  preference  to  white  men,  when  it  has  a  choice. 
Sharks  have  even  been  known  to  follow  slave  ships  fron  the 
coast  of  Africa  to  the  West  Indies,  as  if  conscious  of  the  fre- 
quent feasts  they  have  to  expect  from  the  casualties  among  the 
slaves.  This  instinct  is 'perhaps  dependant  on  the  shark's  aense 
e€  smelling,  the  efl9nvia  from  the  body  of  negroes  b^g  of  ft 
very  powerful  nature. 

The  shark  possesses  great  strength  in  its  tail,  the  stndLe  of 
'  which,  even  from  a  young  one,  is  sufficient  to  break  a  man^* 
leg  5  hence  when  one  is  caught  sailors  instantly  chop  off  the  tail. 
The  flesh  of  the  shark  is  hard,  indigestible,  and  has  a  most  dis* 
agreeable  odour :  nevertheless,  seamen  who  are  not  very  de- 
licate eat  the  tail  part,  and  even  prefer  it9  strong  gaui  to  the 
more  insiptd  dolphin,  or  albicore.  The  jaws  of  the  shark,  aie 
also  usually  preserved  by  the  seaman,  with  the  same  kind  of 
pride  that  the  American  preserves  the  scalp  of  his  enemy. 

The  common  size  of  the  white  shark  is  ten  to  fifteen  feet ; 
but  it  is  said  to  arrive  to  the  size  of  thirty  feet,  and  to  the 
weight  of  40001bs.  and  if  the  fossil  teeth  found  in  Bfalte  and 
other  places,  which  measure  four  inches  and  a  half  in  length,  are 
allowed  to  belong  to  the  shark,  and  the  rule  of  proportion  it 
observed,  these  fish  must  have  exceeded  in  bulk  the  whale 
himself,  It  is  also  asserted,  that  a  shark  has  been  taken  with 
a  whole  horse  in  his  belly,  and  hence  some  writers  have  sop« 
posed  it  to  have  been  a  shark  that  swallowed  Jonas. 

The  white  shark  is  almost  invariably  attended  by  one  or 
more  pilot  fish  (goitarosteus  ductor),  of  whose  services  a  very 
erroneous  idea  was  formerly  formed,  it  being  thought  thai  he 
preceded  the  shark  as  the  jackal  does  the  lion,  to  lead  him  to  hk 

Jirey,  and  that  in  consequence  the  shark,  however  hungry,  re* 
rained  from  devouring  him.    The  fact,  however,  seems  to  be 
>that  the  pilot  fish  attends  the  sharks  to  pick  up  the  fragmenu 

that 


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NOTES.  5^ 

that  escape  from  his  jaws^  and  is  so  far  from  trastiDg  to  bis  for« 
bearance^  that  the  moment  the  shark  turns  to  seize  his  prey^  the 
pilot  fish  darts  from  before  his  mouth,  and  remains  behind  until 
he  has  resumed  his  natural  posture* 

Another  species  of  small  fish  is  a  closer  companion  to  the 
shark  :  this  is  the  sucking  fish  {echeneis  remora),  of  which  three 
or  fonr  are  generally  found  sticking  on  his  back,  and  with  such 
tenacity,  that  it  requires  great  force  to  detach  them.  Pliny 
tells  a  story  of  one  of  these  fish  arresting  the  progress  of  the 
ship  on  board  which  was  Mark  Anthony  and  Cleopatra,  in  the 
battle  of  Actmm  ;  and  Qr.  Shaw,  in  his  account  of  fishes^ 
thinks  it  possible,  that  a  number  of  sucking  fish  attaching  them- 
selres  to  a  vessers  sides,  may  really  retard  her  progress :  bat 
even  admitting  the  vessel  to  be  a  canoe>  as  a  seaman  we  caa 
•nly  exclaim  '*  rmm  teneatis,'* 

(O)— Page  442. 
The  dews  in  warm  climates  appear  to  be  deletereous  or 
innocent^  according  to  the  soil  of  the  country.  Where  the  latter 
is  marshy  or  covered  with  a  rank  vegetation,  the  dews  are  ex- 
tremely malignant,  but,  on  the  contrary,  where  the  soil  is  dry  and 
sandy,  they  produce  no  bad  e£Fects  :  thus  the  Arabs  of  the 
coasts  of  the  Red  Sea  sleep  on  the  terraced  roofs  of  their 
houses,  exposed  to  the  heavy  dews,  and  the  author,  during  a 
twelve  months'  station  in  this  sea,  constantly  pursued  the  same 
custom,  without  any  ill  consequence.  It  abo  seems  certain,  that 
the  first  dews  of  the  evening  are  by  far  the  most  unhealthy,  from 
containing  the  grosser  miasma  pumped  up  by  the  sun,  and 
whose  weight  causes  it  to  fall  first,  while  the  pure  aqueous  dew 
that  descends  towards  morning  is  much  less  unwholesome. 

(P) -Page  443. 

Captain  Beaver  gives  the  following  meteorological  table,  kept 
atBolam: 

January     63  to  9S N.E.  and  fog. 

February s88      96 Land  and  Sea  breezes. 

March 


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1^  MAannQi  QsooaA]?Ht« 


^      Mtfdi  86  95.' LandandSealme^es, 

April • 85  94., Ditto, 

May N.W. 

August 74  82 N.W. 

Sfptember 77  85 S.Wv 

October 81  91 S.W. 

NoTember 84  96., N,K 

Decciib#r 64  92 N.E.  and  £og. 

(Q)^Pagc  445. 

The  eonne  of  the  Niger  has  been  the  subject  of  as  modi  rt* 
fearcb  and  diflRereoee  of  opinion  among  modem  geograpbcn  ai 
tren  Ophir^  Tarsbisb,  or  Thule.   Those  who  foUov  TuAemr 
suppose  it  to  lose  itself  in  lakes,  in  the  interior  of   Afnft, 
while  some  recent  geogn^hers  believe  one  of  its  branches^  at 
least,  to  readi  the  Atlantic,    at  the  angle  of  the  Gulf  of 
ChikMa,  ioto  wbich  it  tnplies  its  waters  by  a  great  Bomber  of 
asootfas,  of  wWeh  the  westernmost  is  the  River  FanoiM^  nai 
Ae  easternmost  the  Rio  del  Rey.   Brides  the  dtductiovs  feoA* 
ed  on  the  descriptions  of  the  antients  end  Arabs,  the  nnlnre  ef 
Hkt  country  between  the  two  rivers  ^ove  owntionedt  ftrnailf 
favours  tb4s  supposkioa.    This  trace,  as  we  have  noticed  »  An 
text.  Is  composed  e€  aliavioo  wi(}ioat  stnaea,  wnd  is  tnteriartnd 
by  «  great    nwaiber  of    meutbs  of  vivers,  forming  a  dalaa 
ninety  miles  in  length.  The  course  of  the  Bio  Formoaa  ia  fvnsn 
the  N.B.  while  that  of  the  Rio  del  Rcy  is  ftom  the  novtir  ;  it 
may  Uierefere  be  presnraed  that  they  are  two  brandbea  nf  t 
great  river,  whieb,  from  the  quantity  of  vratcf  discmbngucd  te^ 
to  the  Ocean,  and  thn  drcaoMtaDoe  «f  an  ahnml  innndatinnj  in 
July  and  August,  should  have  its  source  far  from  the  Sea. 

<R)*^-P^44tf. 

The  total  want  of  sheep  in  this  part  of  Africa  is  €ht  vaore 

singular,  as  all  the  other  regions  of  this  continent,  filMn  the 

Cape  of  Good  Hope  to  the  Mediterranean^  posseaa  a  pncnliar 

and  indigenous  breed  of  those  animals,  whose  diatioetiM  dm* 

ractcit 


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titers  are  bavhig  hair  instead  of  woo\,  tbe  legs  very  long,  t»d 
the  tail  a  mass  of  fat  weighing  ffom  61b.  te  lOlb. 

(S)— Page  470. 
Jimeiik>^  in  Spanish^  signifies  to  farm  oat.  tn  the  origin  the 
Sreneh  African.  CoaipaDy  agreed  to  pay  a  certain  duty  to  the 
Kii^  of  Spain  for  permission  to  supply  the  Spanish  colonies 
with  slares  -,  by  the  treaty  of  Utre^t  tbis  privilege  was  trans- 
ferred to  England^  and  was  granted  to  the  South  Sea  Company^ 
vrhich  was  besides  authorized  to  send  out  a  vessel  of  500  tons 
mnnnaUy,  loaded  with  merchandize.  This  contract  was  interrupted 
by  the  war  of  1739,  and  at  the  peace  of  1 748  the  Company  sold 
t)ie  ueipired  four  years  of  the  privilege  to  Spain  for  v^l 00^000. 

(T)— Page  472. 
Tbe  Gum  Senega  is  procured  either  by  incition  or  by  natara) 
exudation  from  a  species  of  the  Acacia  {Mimosa  Senegal)  which 
grows  chiefly  in  the  desert  of  Sahara  and  partfcolarly  hi  three 
forests  40  to  50  leagues  from  the  coast.  Tbe  trees  afford  two 
harvests  a  year,  the  first  and  most  considerable  in  December, 
and  the  second  in  March.  The  Moors  convey  the  gum  on  camdi 
and  bullocks  to  the  French  settlements  on  the  Senegal,  and  to 
Portendik,  where  a  gum  fair  is  held  from  April  to  July.  While 
collecting  it,  the  Moors  are  said  to  subsist  solely  on  it,  six 
ounces  of  gum  a  day  being  sufficient  nourishment  for  a  man  i* 
health.  The  gum  Senega  has  all  the  properties  of  gum  AraMo, 
and  is  usually  sold  for  it  in  the  shops. 

(U)— Page  506. 

SeTen  tpaciea  of  the  Sea  Tortoise  or  Turtle  are  described  ; 
the  generic  character  is  fin^shaped  leet.  Tbe  Green  Turtle 
(ieetudo  Mt/das)  merits  the  first  place,  from  its  affording  a  food 
in  high  eatimaiion,  particolarly  in  Englaad,  into  which  iS  is 
imported  from  the  West  Indies,  at  a  considerable  expense  and 
tnmbk,  to  gratify  the  epicures  of  the  metropolis.*    Its  popdar 

VOL.  II*  2  o  ^  name 

•  It  appears  that  turtle  first  began  to  be  brought  to  England  only  so  late 
as  the  middle  of  the  lait  cemBry,  being  noticed  as  a  great  rarity  in  1753. 


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5Gi  MABITIIIB  6EOGRAPHT# 

nmme  is  from  the  grecnit h  colour  of  its  fieit,  which  is  oODsidcffecf 
a  sign  of  its  perfectioa,  and  is  supposed  to  proceed  firoav  the 
sea  weed  on  which  the  animal  feeds.  This  species  grows  to  the 
length  of  six  feet,  and  to  the  weight  of  SOOlbs.  $  it  is  met  in  all 
the  regions  of  the  tropical  seas,  but  particularly  among  the  coeal 
and  sandy  cays,  where  it  finds  abundance  of  its  fatourite  f^od, 
the  zasiera  maritima,  or  turtle  grass.  The  female  alone  goes  oo 
shore,  and  never  except  to  deposit  her  eggs,  whkb  she  does  at 
night,  on  the  unfrequented  sandy  beaches,  where  there  h  no 
surf.  For  this  purpose  she  forms  a  bole  above  high  water  mark, 
scratchidg  the  sand  out  with  her  fins,  in  which  she  deposits  aboat 
one  hundred  ^gs>  And  after  covering  tbem  immedktely,  sigain 
returns  to  *the  sea,  leaving  them  to  be  batched  by  the  aolav 
heat ',  this  she  repeats  three  or  four  different  times  at  intervals 
of  fifteen  days,  the  whole  number  of  eggs  contained  in  a  female, 
being  from  three  to  four  hundred.  The  young  turtle,  when  it 
quits  the  shell,  iomiediately  crawls  towards  the  sea,  but  is  oUteu 
too  weak  to  reach  it,  while  others  are  washed  back  by  the  surf 
which  they  have  not  strength  to  overcome.  Besides  the  great 
numbers  which  perish  from  these  causes,  the  little  animals  are 
often  the  prey  of  sea  birds,  aud  by  these  means  their  multipli- 
cation, which  would  otherways  be  enormous^  is  ehecked. 

Turtles  are  taken  either  on  shore,  when  they  go  there  to  de- 
posit their  eggs,  or  are  struck  iu  the  water  with  an  iron  peg 
filed  to  a  wooden  staffs  la  the  former  case,  the  turtle  hunters 
conceal  themselves  before  night  fall,  and  wait  the  arrival  of  the 
animals,  who  when  in  the  act  of  depositing  their  eggs,  are  to* 
tally  inattentive  to  what  passes  around :  they  are  therefore  easily 
turned  on  their  badis,  from  which  position  they  ate  unaWe  to 
recover  themsdves,  and  are  therefore  left  till  the  number  required 
istomed. 

The  Loggerhead  Turtle  {Testudo  CareHa)  is  the  largest  of  the 
genus,  arriving,  it  is  said,  to  the  weight  of  1  fiOOlbs.  -,  its  distinctive 
characters  are,  the  great  size  of  the  head,  but  more  particularly  the 
havii^  fifteen  sep.*r^e'lanjin»  or  scales  on  the  back  shell,  ittstead 
(  f  thirteen,  as  in  all  the  other  species.  The  Loggerhead  is  the 
fiercest  of  the  tribe^  defending  itself  vigorously  with  its  mouth 

wheA 


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vottB.  663 

1^hea  attacked.  Its  flesh  is  coarse  and  rank,  and  its  shell  of  no 
use.  It  is  met  with,  not  only  within  the  tropics,  hut  abo  in 
the  Mediterranean,  and  very  commonly  in  the  middle  of  the  ocean^ 
slumbering  on  the  surface'* 

The  Hawksbillj  or  Imbricated  Tnrtle  (Testudo  Imbricaia)  has 
its  first  name  from  its  narrow  curved  beak  5  and  its  second,  ftom 
the  disposition  of  the  scales  on  the  back,  which  over-lay  like  the 
tiles  of  a  house-roof.  Its  fore-legs  are  longer  than  those  of  the 
other  speeies,  and  from  this  conformation  ic  is  said,  the  animal 
Can  regain  its  natural  position  from  being  turned  on  its  back. 
It  seldom  is  found  larger  than  four  feet  long  or  3  to  4001b8. 
weight.  The  scales  are  the  well-known  tortoisesheU,  of  which 
a  good  sized  turtle  affords  8  to  l6lbs. ;  the  flesh  is  not  superior  to 
tdat  of  the  Loggerhead.  This  species  is  found  in  the  Mediter* 
ranean,  as  well  as  betw^n  the  tropics. 

The  Ctff)a6eous  Turtle,  «r  Luih  of  the  French  {TetMdo 
Coriaced),  grows  to  the  length  of  eight  f«et,  and  to  the  weight  ot 
12001b8.  Its  chief  specific  character*  and  from  which  it  deiivcs  it^ 
name,  is  beiiig  covered  with  a  substaAee  resembliog  strong 
leather,  without  scates,  sind  along  which  longitudinall/  run 
ive  ridges  or  elevations.  It  is  a  native  of  the  Mediteiraneauy 
and  oecastonally  wanders  to  the  coasts. of  England.  It  is  also 
met  on  the  coasts  of  Sontfa  America  and  Africa.  Its  flesh  is  very 
ofly  and  coars^.  The  other  specie^  of  sea  turtle  we  the  Green- 
aheUed,  met  with  on  the  coasfs  of  America  in  the  N6rth  PacifK  ,- 
it  diffiers  from  the  coronfon  green-ttirtl^  in  the  colour  of  the 
shell  froni  which  it  derives  its  name,  and  does  not  arrive  at  so 
great  a  size; 

TheTVuitAc Turtle  and  the  Naticome  are  little  known.  The  first 
has  its  name  from  the  great  convexity  oi  the  upper  shell,  acnd 
She  latter  is  distioguiihed  from  the  green  turtle  by  j.  large  soft 
Kibercle  otf  the  tip  of  the  snont^  in  which  are  sitantted  the 
fiostrilf.  ' 


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(    S6*    ) 


TABLE   I. 


MONIES^  WBIOHTS,    AND  MSASUEBSy 

Cfthe  Cotmfrter  dacribed  in  this  Volume, 


FRANCE. 

The  coined  monies  of  Fnmee 
Mmk  the  Rerc^ntioii  were, 
^  jjCI>oableb«ia..481iTre8. 

CLouifder 24. 

r  Ectt  orivown  6  Unes. 

i  Petit  era 3 

Silrer   <  Piece  of. . .  J24  $€iM, 

...  12 

...    6 

;Solof4Iiard8,  or  12 

deniers. 
lUalfsol,  or2liards. 
,Oneli4Pd. 
Dnring  the  Revolution,  pieces 
of  a  mixed  metal  of  thirty  sols 
and  fifteen  sols  were  coined  as 
well  as  two  sol  pieces  of  cop- 
per, which  8t»ll  pass  for  their 
nominal  value,  while  the  gold 
and  silver  coins  of  the  antient 
government  have  heen  reduced, 
and  are  going  iut  out  of  circu- 
latioii. 


Coppers 


The  new  coins  nt, 
^j  J  C  DotAle  NafQlooii%,  40 1, 

C  Napoleon  d'or 20 

/  Pieces  of 5, 2,  Ifmmx 
Silver    ]  .—^- of  50  cent  and 

t     25  cent. 
Pieces  of  mixed  metal  of  20 
and  10  centimes. 
80  francs  of  the  new  cMt 
are  equal  to  81  livres  tovrnob 
of  the  old. 

The  par  of  exchaage  WCiwcco 
Paris  and  London  is  24  fduM» 
the  £\  sterling. 

Weights. 

Before  the  Rovoltatioii,  the 
weights  and  measures  of  Fraaoe 
differed  in  almost  every  pro- 
vince J  at  present  they  are  ma* 
form  throughout  the  kingdom^ 
and  calculated  decimally,  the 
primitives  or  unities  being  the 
gramme,  the  metre,  the  are^ 
and  the  litre,  which  have  three 
divisors. 


.  Digitized 


by  Google 


divitort,  iht  4eH,  the  cetUi, 
and  the  mtUi,  or  the  lOth, 
lOOtb,  lOQOth ;  and  four  nu)- 
tifriiers^  tbe  deca,  heeto,  the 
laio,  and  tbe  myrui,  or  10^ 
100,  1000,  10,000  timet. 

The  gfiommtf  weighs  one  cu- 
bic centimetre  of  distilled  wa- 
ter. 

/  Decigramme  . .  -nr 
©escend-A     of  the  gramme. 

sTrL   1  Centigramme    .^ 


'Decagramme  ...  10 

Ascend- 
ing    . 
Serums 

grammes. 
Hectogramme. .  100 
Kilogramme..  1000 
.MyriagrammelOOOa 

The  kilogramme  Supersedes 
the  antient  livre  (pound),  and 
is  the  common  weight  for  gross 
merchandize  j  it  is  equal  to 
2  lbs.  5  gros.  49  grains,  antient 
Parisjweight,  and  to  2  lbs.  3  oz, 
4  drs.  81  English  avoirdupois. 

Long  itnd  Road  Meamre, 

The  metre  is  the  tctjWt  P«rt 
of  the  quarter  of  the  meridian, 
or  the  distance  of  the  pole  to 
the  equator. 

^Decimetre  ....tV 
Descend-  J     of  the  metre. 
iog  Series^  Centimetre  . .  riv 

vMUIiametre..-nrtfQ 


Ascend- 
ing  Series^ 


APPEKPIX.  56$ 

'Decametre  ...  10 

metres. 
Hectometre..  100 
Kilometre  . .  1000 
Myriamttre  10000 

The  metre  is  the  oemtt^n 
measure  of  cloths,  and  super* 
sedes  tbe  antient  oune  (ell). 
It  is  equal  to 

Fi.  In.  Lin. 

3  0  M  2960  Paris  feet  an- 
tient. 

3  3  4  8490  EBglish  mea- 
sure^ 

The  myriametre,  the  usual 
road  measure,  which  super'* 
aedes  tbe  antient  league,  is  a 
few  inches  nore  than  10943 
English  yards. 

Superficial  Measure. 

The  are  is  100  square  me* 
tres,  or  one  square  daoametre. 

Declare,  ^^  of  the 
are,  or  10  square 

Ascend-   J     metres. 

ing  Serfes'YCcntiare,  rfn  ^ 
^bt  are,  or  ooa 
«qi»re  metre. 

Ascend-    X  Hectare,  100  ares, 
log  Series  J  »ftit^,  lO/WO. 


SoM  Measure, 

The  itere,  I  cMb  mstn,  or  f 

cord. 
The  decistere  .V  of  the  stere. 


2o3 


Liquid 


Digitized  by 


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566  MARITIME  GEOGRAPHT. 

Liquid  Measure. 

The  litTC  It  oQe  cubic  deci* 
ipetre. 

{Decilitre^  ,V  o^  the 
litre. 

IQ 
Ajcend 


LCentilitre, 

I      litres. 
jngScriesI  Hectolitre  ..  100 
I  KUolitre. . . .  1000 
L   or  }  cubic  metre. 

The  litre  b  =  l^V  antient 
Paris  piDU,  or  2,114  pipts 
9k)gli«h,  one  hectolitre  being 
52,85  g^oDs. 

The  goveraroent  finding  it 
impossible  to  force  the  use  of 
the  n^w  weights  and  measures 
on  the  people^have  been  oblige 
ed  to  modify  them  to  a  certain 
degree,  and  to  permit  the  use 
of  the  antient  denomination  in 
the  common  business  of  retail. 
Thus  the  ne\9^  aune  is  120  cen- 
timetres, or  nearly  an  |nch 
longer  than  the  old.  The  livre 
is  half  the  kilogramme.  The 
cord  of  wood  is  four  stere; 
and  the  new  pint  is  the  litre. 

The  correspondence  of  the 
French  antient  measures  with 
the  English  are, 
lOfcctBnglish  =  9,38«Frcnch. 

For  common  purposes,  it  is  ' 
^uitecieut  to  say^hat  15  French 

I 


feet  are  equal  to  16  Bnglish^ 
the  exact  proportion  being 
15  French  =^  15,986  English. 
The  Paris  pound  is  7561 
grains  troy,  100  Paris  poimda 
l^ing  108^  English. 


SPAIN. 

The  coined  money  of  Sjpaiii 
it  common  to  the  whole  kiofi'- 
dom,  but  it  distinguished  into 
three  kinds.  The  ancient  ootn, 
or  those  struck  before  1772, 
and  those  struck  since.  Th% 
most  ancient  are  ill  shaped 
and  without  any  impression  % 
they  are  received  only  by 
weight, ,  The  coins  struck  be- 
fore 1 772  *  are  current  by  the 
piece,  but  as  they  are  fast 
going  out  of  circulation,  we 
shall  only  notice  the  moderu 
coins. 

Copper. 

2  marredi    . .  1  ocbavo 

4 1  quarto 

Siiver. 
17  ochaTOs  ...  1  realito  or 
I  real 

34 1  real 

68 1  peceta 

170  ocbaros 

»  Tbfy  ire  disiingiiiflbed  bf  the 
anus  between  two  cobunns. 


Digitized  by 


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170  ochaTos 


.  1  tscudo  or 

^  duro 
.1  duro* 


34i 

(hid. 

S40 1  durHo 

4^ 1  escudo 

doro 

IdM 1  doUon'oro 

2720 1  doblon    a 

qoatre 

5440  1  oDza   de 

oro 

Tbe  merchants'  acconnts  are 
k^pt  in  reals  de  Tellon  and 
marredis.  The  real  de  TelloD  f 
is  1 7  ocbavos.  The  par  of  ex- 
change between  Madrid  and 
London  is  90  |  reals  ^r  the 
po^nd  sterling. 

JFeights, 

The  weights  and  measares 
of  Spain  diflfer  in  every  pro- 
vince, and  even  in  tlie  different 
towns  of  the  jiame  province, 
the  recapitulation  of  which 
wovldlead  us  into  an  endless 
and  useless  labyrinth  -,  we  shall, 
therefore,  confine  ourselves  to 
those  by  which    commefcial 

«  The  duro  piastre  or  Spanish 
dollar  is  intrinsically  worth  48.  4id. 
sterling. 

t  The  real  de  veUon  is  intrinsi- 


APPENDIX.  567 

objects  are  usually  sold  in  the 
maritime  towns. 

InGuipuscoa  (St.  Sebastian) 
the  weights  are 


lb, 

101 
100 
105 
150 


The  pound  of  12  ounces. 
The  common  quintal . . . , 
The  quintal  of  spices  .... 
———of  salt  cod  . . 
— of  iron  .... 

In  Biscay  (Bilboa  and  St. 
Andero) 
The  pound  is  15  ounces. 
The  quintal  (of  Bilboa). .  146 , 
Tbe  quintal  of  Cacao  (St. 

Andero) 107 

■      of  salt  cod.  .112 

of  iron  ....  155 

Iv  the  Asturiap, 
The  pound  is  16  ounces* 

Thei  aroba 25. 

The  quintal    .....100 

The  charge 300 

In  Valencia  there  ait  no  less 
than  five  kinds  of  pouncb  for 
different    objects   sold  in  the 
market.      In    commerce    the 
aroba  of  wax  is  30lbs.of  )2oz. 
the  aroba  of  flour  32 
the  quintal  is  4  a- 
robas  or  ... .  130 
In  Catalonia, 
The  pound  i^  16  oMUces. 

The  aroba 26 

Tbe  quintal 104 

The  charge 312 

2  o  4  Tha 


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ACS  MARITIME  OCCmiAfHY. 

Th«  oMft  of  thedifereiit 
proTinces  also  vary. 

'  (jff9lin9  tr$g. 
The  oance  df  Biteay  is  . .  503 

Of  the  Asturias 572 

Of  Valencia  and  Catalonia  551 


Eng,  avQur. 

100Ibs.ofBiscayu 115 

Of  Asturlat    108f 

Of  Valencia  and  Cata- 
lonia      126^ 

Long  Measure^ 

The  foot  is  divided  into  12 
indies  and  the  inch  into  12 

linea. 

Lines, 
The  foot  of  Catalonia  is  125 

of  Valencia  ..127 

In  all  the  provinces  of  Spain 
except  Catalonia^  cloth  is  mea- 
sured  by  the  pam  and  Tara^ 
4  pams  being  one  vara.  The 
vara  of  Biscay  and  the  Astn- 
rlM  is 

Feet,  In, 
2    7|£nglidi 
-— ofGalida   2    8^ 

of  Valencia  2  10 

In  Catalonia  ckHh  is  mea* 
snred  by  the  {mm  and  cana^ 
16  pams.  .1  qum  5  1} 

Dry  or  Corn  Measure, 

The  finnega  is  the  most 
i«qal  inew^e  of  con. 


\ 


The  faae^  of  Bis- 
cay is  131  * 

—  of  Asturias   j 

ofGaUcia     j '^^ 

of  Grenada      136         S 

In  Valencia  and  Cataksoia 
corn  ift  Measured  by  the  char^^ 
which  in  Catalonia  is  273  Ite. 

in  Valencia  ..315 

Liquid  Measure, 

i6,o/l6oz. 
*  At  Seville,  by  the 

aroba 25 

34  arobas  1  pipe  •  •  850 

At  Valencia  by  the 

cantaro 24| 

Aroba Sl| 

12    Arobas    1 

charge 578 

At  Valencia  by  the  4 

azumbers  1  coutoso  26{ 
15  Caataros  1  charge  3S3| 
4  Charges  1  botta 

or  tun 157S 

In  Catalonia  by  the 

aroba 28f 

4  aiobat  I  qamtal  . .  91f 

3  ^oiDtals  1  charge    27^ 

4  chaises  1  pipe  V.  1575 


PORTUGAL. 

Monies. 

20  ff^ 1  Tintli^ 

100        1 


400 


Digitized  by 


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400  res 1  eruzado 

l»200        1  quartiobo 

4,800       1  moidore 

24,000        1  debraoa 

The  inerchanU*  accountt  are 
kept  in  mil-res  or  crnzados  and 
res.  Lisbon  exebauges  on 
London  1000  res  for  66  pence 


fVeighti, 

)6  ounces 1  pomul 

32  pounds 1  aroba 

4  arobas 1  quintal 

lOOlbs.of  Portugal  =^  94.56Eng. 

Long  Measure^ 

12  polegados  or 

inches  ....  1  pe  or  foot 

2  pes 1  covada 

40  polagados. .  1  vara 
2  varas    ....  1  braca 
100  307i  feet.  Bng^. 

Dry  or  Com  Measure. 

4  atquieres 1  fanega 

Id  fanegas  .  • . , 1  muid 

The  mttid  is    11|    gallons 
English. 

Liquid  Measure, 
6  cavados  . .  1  alquiere 
2  alqaieres. .  1  ahmnd 
26  abmuds  . .  1  botte  or  pipe 
265}ca?ados  =  100  galls.  £ng. 


ITALY. 
In  all  parts  of  Italy^  subject 


to  or  influenced  by  France^ 
the  decimal  form  of  monie»> 
weights,  and  nieasures,  have 
been  introduced  :  previous  to 
this  introduction,  each  state 
had  its  separate  coin,  &c. 

At  Genoa  and  Leghorn  the 
merchants'  acooants  are  kept 
in  liras,  sols,  and  deniers,  the 
lira  being  20  s«ls,  and  tke 
sol  12  deniers  j  the  exchange 
between  Qtnoa  and  London 
was  5|-  liras  for  4s. 


NAPLES. 
Monies, 
12  cavalette. 

18 ., 


1  grain 
1  publice 
1  carlint 
I  tari 
1  dacato 
1  scndo 


10  grains 
2  carlini 
10 
12 

Accounts  are  kept  ia  dm* 
catos  and  grains.  Naples  ex- 
changes at  London  1  duoato 
regno  44d. 

TFeigfils. 

12  ounces 1  llrapicolo 

33i  1  rotola 

100  rotolas 1  cantaro 

The  cantaro  is  196  lbs.  Eng. 
57i  rotola  or  160|lbs«  picolo 
make  1  cwt.  English. 

Long  Measure. 
12  oonces. ...  1  palmo 

Bpalm* 


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570 

8  pabnos. ...  1  canna 
iOO  caDoat  =:  330  yards  Eng. 

Dry  or  Corn  Measure, 

36  tumuloes 1  carre 

equal  to  7  English  quarters 
"     Liquid  Meantre. 

35  puts  . .    1  barrel  of  wine 
12  barrels     1  botte  or  pipe 
2  bottes      1  carre  or  charge 
2  bottes  is  one  ton  English 
(Ml  18  measured  by  the  salm. 

32  pignatiUi   1  stara 

10  sUra 1   salm 

The  salm    is    467|lbs.  and 
7|tb6.  of  oil  is  a  gallon. 


SICILY. 

Monies. 

20  grains 1  tarri 

12  tarri  1  scudi 

30  tarri     ....    1  ounce 

Sicily  giTCS  on  London  40 
to  50  carri^  the  £  sterling. 

freights. 
12  ^Minces  ....  1  lira  piccolo 

30  ounces 1  rotola 

100  rotola  ....  1  cantaro 

The  cant^o  is  =  l/Sibs. 
English,  being  10  per  cent. 
Ie«s  than  that  of  Naples. 

Th«  mcaiurcs  of  Sicily  are 
tiic  same  as  those  of  Naples. 


MARITIME   QEOGAAPHT. 


SARDINIA. 

Monies. 

6  denarii   ......    1  calari 

6  calari 1  soldi 

30  calari  .  .• 1  real 

10  reals 1  scodo 

Accounts  are  kept  in    lira, 
sokli,  and  denarii. 

12  denarii    I  soldi 

20  soliK    1  Urn 

12  ounces 1  Bra 

104  lira   1  cantaro 

lOOlbs.Sardinian  ==  86!bs.  Eng. 


PAPAL  STATBS.ANCONA> 

&c. 

Ifoatet. 

10  bajoque  . .  1  pauI 

10  pauls  ....  I  Rom.  crown 

mights. 
The  Roman   pound    is    13 
ounces ;    the    ounce  ^4    de- 
niers ;     and     the    denier  24 
grains. 
1  OOlbs.  Roman  is  78|  lbs.  Eog. 

Long  Measure. 
100    bracci    of  Rome    are 
equal  to  96^  yards  English. 

Wines  and  spirits  are  mea- 
snred  by  the  boccali  of  4  Ro- 
man 


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APPENDIX. 


woBXk  poaods^  and  48  boccalis  is 
0L  8omme. 

Cora   is  measured  by  the 
mbbiof  Slappes. 


TURKEY. 

Monies. 
3  aspers  ........    1  para 

48  paras    1  piastre 

15  to  17  piastres  arc  given 
mt  Constantioople  and  Smyrna 
ioT  the  J£  sterling  in  London. 

H'eights. 
400  drachms....    1  oqae 
40  oques  Ss  lOOlbs.  English 
LiMg  Measure. 

The  pic  of  28  inches  di- 
|rided  into  three. 

Corn  or  Dr^  Measure. 

The  kitol    of   grain  is  8| 
/quarters  English. 


BARBARY— MOROCCO. 

Monies, 

24  flas )  blanquiilp 

4  blanqailles    1  ounce 
^0  ounces ....  1  dacat 


571 

morocco    cpiintal    Is 


The 

llOlbs.  English.  ]00  Condes 
or  cubits  is  57  yards  English 
long  measure. 


ALGIERS. 

Monies. 

24  masonas    1  piastre 

3  f  piastres         1  sequin 

llie  Algerine  quintal  of 
lOOlbs.  is  equal  to  ll^lbs. 
English. 


TUNIS. 

Monies. 
12  burbos  ....   1  asper 

3  Jaspers 1  caroob 

16  caroobs     . .    1  piastre 
4f  piastres    . .   1  mahoob  or 
sequiif 
The  par  of  exchange  is  15 
piastres  the  £  sterling. 
1  OOlbs.Tunisian  is  1 12lbt.  En§. 
16     tumuloes  of   wheat  it 
1  coffee  of  SOOlbs.  English. 

44 1  metals  of  oil    is   one 
tQU  English  of  236  gallons* 


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57a 


HARITUfS  ttfiOeSAPHT. 


TABLE   II. 

tABLE  OF  GEOGRAPHICAL  POSITION!?. 


CaliU 

Dieppe 

Le  Hmrtt  de  Grace 
CapeBarfteor 
8c.  Malo.... 

Utbaiu. 

Brest 

Belle  Isle. 


47  13 
46  42 
46  30 
45  56 
Tow  deCordoinai46  36 


Nantes 

Isle  Dien 

Sables  d'Olonne. 
Rocbetort. 


Bordeaux    .. 
Bason  of  Arcadum 

Baymine 

St.  John  de  Loz, 


lAtitiide    Longitadc 


Nerth. 

49  50 
49  29 
49  42 
48  39 
48  29 
48  23 
47  17 


Moirthof  theLoire47  15 


44  50 
44  38 

43  29 
43  23 


Spain. 

Bilboa 

St.  Andero 

CapedePenas.... 
Cape  Ortegal.... 

Conmna 

D^>c  Finisterre.. 

Vigo 

Minho  River  .... 

PortHgai, 

Viana 

Oporto. 

CapeMondego.. .. 

Penlche' 

Rock  of  Liabon  . . 

Lisbon 

CapeBspicbel...; 

Ci4)e  Sines 

Cape  St.  Vincent. 

Fero 

Guadiana  River . 


43  15 
43  28 
43  42 
43  46 
43  23 
42  54 
42  14 
41  55 


Sp&iit, 
Guadalquivir's 

Mouth 

Seville 

Cadiz 

Cape  Trafalgar . . . 


41  40 
41  20 
40  12 
39  24 
38  46 
38  42 
38  25 
37  57 
37  3 
37  01 
37  13 


36  58 

37  0 
36  32 
36  10 


FUce. 


lAtit»4c  UMifiK. 


1«51'B. 
1    6 

0  5 

1  26W. 

2  2 
5  03 
4  29 

3  7 
235 
1  34 
8Si 
1  48 

0  59 

1  10 

0  34 

1  15 
1  30 
1  40 


2  44 

3  40 
5  46 

7  48 

8  28 

9  18 
8  37 
8  46 


8  44 
8  96 

8  54 

9  1^ 
9  31 
9  10 
9  14 

8  55 

9  2 
7  56 
7  15 


6  20 

5  58 

6  18 
6     1 


Mediter,  Spa9m.  iKoifb. 

'ariflk  point  south' 
pointof  Spain..  i36«0 If 

{Gibraltar Z6    6 

Malaga 136  45  , 

jAbneria  (36  52  i 

;CapedeGatte...J.36  44 


CartbigCM 
.Cape  de  Palos. . . . 

Alicaat 

ICape  St.  Martin . . 

iValenda 

Tarragona  ••«... 

|Barcelona 

Cape  de  Otckz  .. 
I'alma,  M^orca . . 
Fort.Mahon,    Ml 

norca 

jlvi^atown   

Colombrette  ro^s . 


36 
i37  37 
38  21 

38  47 

39  27 
41  9 
41  23 
«2  20 
39  32 

39  52 

38  53 

39  55 


Medtttr,  France. 
Port  \' endres  . . . . 

Perpignan    

Agdc 

'IMontpelBcr..*.  •• 

iMarseiUes.. 

(Toolon 

Frejus 

Antibes 


Haig, 

Nice 

Savona 

Genoa  

Leghorn  .... 

Rome 

iTerradna  ... 

Gaeta 

Naples 

Salerno    • . . . 
Scylla 


Island  Goiigona 
Cabrera  Island 
Porto  Fem^o  £lbB|42 
Monte  Christo  Is- 
land  


43  32 

42  42 

43  19 
43  37 
43  18 
43  7 
43  26 
43  35 


43  42 

44  17 
44  25 
43  32 
41  S4 
41  18 
41  15 
40  50 
40  44 
38  12 


43  24 
43    0 

48 


42  22 


5  35w. 
5  20 

4  23 

a  31 

2   13 

1  1 
0  42 
0  30 

0  USj 

0  SSw. 
i  19£. 

2  II 

3  16 
2  40 

4  18 

1  28 
0  33 


3    5 

2  54 

3  » 
3  52 
S  tt 

5  55 

6  44 

7  7 


7  16 
830 

8  58 
10  17 

12  28 

13  12 

13  38 

14  14 

14  45 

15  46 

9  51 
946 

10  22 

10  16 


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AfPfiHDIX.  67s 

r.SBLE  OP,  GEOGRAPHICAL  POSITIONS.  (Ctmtinuedj 


FUcr. 


Latitude 


Longitude. 


Mace. 


Utitude 


Longit. 


Sicilg,  Nortli. 

Messina Si'^iV 

atania 37  26 

Cape  Pa&saro  south 

point 36  41 

licata ,..|37    3 

'aderroo '33    7 

tromboli  Ifllaad. .  '38  44 
IVstica  Island  ....  !38  41 

I.a  Valetta  JlaUa35  54 
Pautelaria  Island  .  36  56 
iLlnosa  Island  ....  35  bh 
'Lampedusa  Island 35  29 

\ 

\  CoTHtca. 
'St.  I'loreuzo 
'Ajaccio  .... 
Bastia 


42  39 

41  56 

42  43 


i         Sardinia, 
Cagliari    ^ .  3i)  20 

lOristan    39  38 


Adriatic  Italy* 
CapeSpartivcito. . 
Cape  Culonnti  .... 
CapedelAllice..  .. 

Tarento   

|Cape  St.  Mary. , . . 

iBrindisi    

iHari 

Miinfrcdonia    

jAncona 

IRavenna 

Venice 

Head  of  the  Adri' 
aUc 


37  53 

39  4 

139  24 

m  28 

i3y  44 

40  .'59 

41  10 
k41  38 
;43  3a 
!44  25 
145  26 


145  48 


Trieste l43  45 

Zara !44  15 

Sebenico i43  49 


Spalatro  . 
Hagosa. . . 
Catjtaro  .  . 

Lepanto  . 
Modon . . . 


Uflsa  Island 

C4}rfa  C.  Ulaxico  . . 


43  31 

42  39 

42  22 
41  49 

38  15 
36  49 

43  5 

39  15 


15M5'K 
15  15 

15  19 
13  47 
15  22 
15  24 

13  17 

14  30 
12  Id 
12  45 
12  40 


9  49 

8  44 

9  28 


9  07 
8  35 


16  22 

17  37 
17  31 

17  33 

18  45 
18  20 
17  8 
16  05 
13  29 
12  U 
12  21 


13  45 

15  24 

16  7 
16  38 
IB  8 
19  28 

19  51 
22  0 
21  35 

16  22 

20  23 


Adriaiic. 
Cefahmia  ttuuth 

ea.si  point 

Zantc  south  point 

Archipelago* 

Cape     Matapaa 
south    point    of 
Europe 

Cape  St.  Angelo. 

Napoli  di  Romania 

Athens 

^^<donica  .... 

Cape  Monte  Santo 

Head  of  the  Archi- 

I     pelago  .... 


N'onh. 

37" 52' 
37  28 


26  23 
26  26 
7  30 
37  58 
40  38 

40  09 

41  0 


Anatolia. 

Adramylte 

Sm}'rna 

Seal  a  Xova 

Capft  Crio 

.Marmorice  .. .. , 
Cape  Chelidnni  . 
SaUdia   < 


Alexaufiretta  . .  . 

Latakia    

IVipfjli 

.St.  John  d'Acr©. 

Jafia 

E\  Arisch 


I         Barbart/. 

Tangier   

Ceuta 

MelliU 

Oraa 

Alfifiers  .  .... 
Bona  ....... 

Biserta 

Tunis 

Cape  Bon 

Susa 

Tripoli 


I  Egypt. 
Cape  Dcras  . . 
^Alexandria  . . 
lAhoukir  .... 
IRoSctla 


39  31 

38  29 
37  53 
36  46 
36  48 
36  13 
36  09 


36  35 

35  32 
U  26 
33  1 
si  5 
31  8 


35  40 
35  54 
35  18 

35  44 

36  49 
V   03 

37  20 

36  47 

37  5 
35  50 
32  54 


31  12 
M  13 
31  18 
31  24 


2U-9'E. 
21  9 


'29  29 
23  14 

22  35 

23  46 
22  55 

24  13 


26  46 

27  6 
27  I 

27  14 

28  9 
;iO  25 
30  39 


36  18 
35  44 
.'.>  35 
t5  16 
34  49 


5  49  VV. 


18 
58 
40 
00  K . 

0 

0 


10  21 

n  05 

10  27 
13  21 


38  15 

29  54 

30  36 
30  &0 


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.574 


MAEITIHE  OEOG&APHt. 


JABLE  (*  GEOGRAPHICAL  POSITIONS.  (OmHmi^i^ 


Place. 


Utn«4c 


Dinttetu    .. 
Grand  Ctiro. 


North. 
3I«»25 
30    % 


TurhM  Ishndt, 

Andim  N.W.  point 

MeUliB 

Sdo 

Cm 

Candia  Town  . . 

Scarpanto 

Rhodes  Town., 
Cypros  Lainaca 

Black  Sfu, 
fCapeJanissary 
g*  I  entrance  of 
$  I    Dardandles 
^  J  Constantino- 

•S*      pie 

^iMidjiah!.... 

I  iBnrg^ 

^  LVaina 


y  rOdena.... 
I^Ockzekoir. 
j^  (,  Kherson  .. 

{Perekop  .. 
E^patoria . 
Sebastopol 
Kafla 


rEredi 

I  Cape  Kerempi 

e  I  .Sinope 

2  I  Ktzil     Irmak 

^  I      River 

•S  ^  Uniah 

I 


Trehboud . . . 
Gouniah  . . . . 
Phasis  River 

Isgaour 

^Anapa 


S*  rpetroffikaia. 
S5<  Taganrog.. , 
'^  I  AzopU 

L I 


East. 
3I«50< 
31  18 


36  42 
^7  55 
39  6 
38  24 
36  51 
35  20 

35  32 

36  22 
34  54 


39  59 

41  I 

41  37 

42  26 

43  12 


46  28 
46  38 

44  40 


41  18 

42  5 
42  2 

41  33 


41  2 


47  12 


Longitude. 


24  25 

24  24 

26  19 

25  58 

27  2 
25  18 

27  3 

28  18 
33  40 


25  59 

28  55 
28  25 
27  30 
27  50 

30  37 

32  56 


33  36 


3>  27 
33  08 

35  8 

36  a 

37  20 
39  4a 


38  39 


H^.Cwut  €f Africa 

|CapeSpiEuteI 

Labrache 

Mamora 

Azamor   

CapeCantin 

TfMif  River'a 

Bfoath. ....... 

Morocco 

Mogadore 

Cape  de  Geer  .... 

Sanu  Cruz 

Cape  Noon  

CapeBojador .... 
Rio  del  Ouro  .... 
Cape   Blanco    of 

Argmin 

Portendik «. 

Bar  of  Senegal.. .. 
Cape  Verd Point.. 

Portudal 

Cape  St.   Mary 

Gambia 

Cape  Roxo 

Kasnabac  Bissagos 

Bulam 

Cape  Verga. 
Isles  de  Los. 
Cape  Sierra  Leone 
Rirer  Gallina .... 
Cape  Mesurado . . . 
Cape  Palmas  .... 
River  St.  Andrew 
Cape  la  Hon  .... 
River  Sueiro  de 

Cesta 

Cape  Tliree  Points 
St.  George  de  la 

Mine  . ..  .* 

Cape  Coast  Castle 

Amokoo 

Akra 

BiretVolta 

Whidah-w 

Porto  Nova .^ 

Cape  Fonnoaa. . . . 
River  Camcrons . . 
Corisco  I.-iUnd. . . . 

River  (J aboil 

Cape  l/iper 

JMayumba 


Utiuide 


—\ 


NorfthJ 
38»48'| 
35  II  { 
34  20 
33  28 
32^35 

»  0 
31  56 
31  27 
30  38 
30  2» 
28  40 
26  12 
23  40 

20  56 
48  5 
IS  53 
14  46 
14  13 

13  IS 
12  13 

10  30 

11  0 
10    7 

9  27 
8  30 
7  0 
626 
4  30 

4  57 

5  06 

S  06 
4  30 


56 
& 
13 
29 
53 
24 
16 
10 
10 
50 
25 
578! 
38 


6  14 

5  3f 

8  7 

9  le 

9  12 

8  5 

9  a4 

9  53 
9  40 

11  2S 

14  36 

15  15 

17  K 
16<I0 

15  35 
17  35 
17    2 

16  39 
16  50 
14  40 
14  52 
13  50 
13  20 

12  50 
II  45 

10  a» 

7  41 

6  13 
4  55 


455 
2  40  . 

2  05 
2  0 
1    2 

0  19 

1  aoE. 

2  12 

5  05 
8  55 
8  40 
8  48 
8  47 
10  21 


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APPENDIX*  573 

TABLE  OF  GEOGRAPHICAL  POSITIONS.  (Ciweiud^.J 


Flace. 


Utitttd* 


fV.CfMstof Africa, 

LoaDgo  Bay 

Melemba  Bay .... 

Cabinda 

Biver  Zaire 

Ambriz 

S.  Paul  de  Loando 

CopeLedo 

St,  Philip  of  Ben- 
guela    ...... 

I  Cape  Eu«pe    ., 
\  Cape  Negro. . . . 


North 


9  45 

12  35 
15  14 
15  56 


Longitude. 


11^30' E 

12  10 

12  30 
\^^  16 

13  40 
13  33 

13  30 
12  14 
11  56 


Place. 


lAliuide 


W.Coatt  of  Africa, 

Fish  Bay 

Walwish  (W'liale) 
I    Bay 


North. 
1C«30/ 

22  54 
Sandwich  Harbour  23  30 


Klizabeth  Bay 
Cai)e  VoJtas. . 
1 1  stand  Fernando  Po 
iPrince'B  Island  .. 
St.  'niuiuas*a  l8- 
laud 


27    0 

29  00 

3  10 

1  40 

0  10 


Anoo-Boua ]  1  aOS 


LongiUMte. 


12»0^E. 

13  55 

14  2 

15  37 

16  15 
7  20 
7     5 

6  35 
5  50 


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(    577    ) 
INDEX  TO  VOL.  II. 


B.  Baif-C.  Cape^-Q.  Ou^f-A,  liland^n.  River. . 

Page  Page  P^c 

Aa  B ^ 7  Ag[uilloiie8  Rocks..  271  Aleoy  R 150 

Aberbenoit  R 8  Agulon  C 502  Aleuida :   166 

Aberbaut  R 8  Ahiolu 373  Alessio,  Italy 189 

Aberildoo 19  Ahoni 534  Alessio,  Albania  .. .  256 

AboDoR 73   Aias 285  Alexandd- Port ... .   543 

Aboukir 353   Aigues  Mortes  ....   182  Alexandretta 286 

Abr«vac 19   AiomanaO. 275  Alexandria. 351 

Abydos  . ....,.».•.  362  Aiotaoluk 281  Akx^dria Trow  . .   277 

AcbcvonLake   ....  200  Aix  I 30  Alfaques 144 

AcboAloimt..^...   338   Ajacdo,  Corsica...  223  Algaiola 224 

Adadki 307   Ajacdo,  Syria  ....  285  Algeziras    146 

Acoda....« 528  Ajatte  Punt  R. . . . .  524  Algiers 341 

Acra 531   Ajebbi  R. 342  AlicantO 142 

IV  Acre,  St.  Jobs..  291   Akassa  R..^ 503  Alicant  Town....   153 

Adaaa. 285  Akatakke 529  Alicata 237 

Adaya 273  Akerman  376  Alice,  Cai»e  del. .. .  207 

Adda 532  AkteboU ;  373  Alicudi  1 242 

Adelpbi^  1 322  Aktiar 381  Aligre 22 

Adera 96  Alaya 284  AUonesR.  73 

Adige  R..... 212  Alban  Mount,  St..   188  Ahnacera  ; 155 

AdourR. 10   Albania 255   Alinadi  Point. .. w   511 

Adra  R. 152  Albe  1 250  Abnad^gb  Mount  . .  285 

Adrian,St,C 71   Albenga 189  Almadronis  B 497 

Adrlanopal. /,.••..   276'AIboranI 347  Almazaron 152 

vSnes.0 276  Albvoda 515  Almetia  0 141 

Afnna.1...*. 365 .  Albufisira Lake  . .  .     95  AbneriaTown  ....   152 

Africa. 345  AlboileimTown....   105  Abnissa 252 

A|;atbon.R... ..:...  534.  Albnfeuit of. Valoacia  143  Abnunecar. .......   152 

Agatbonlai.l 328  Alcatrasl.. .  519:  AlteaB......«v....   143 

AgiostcaUI 324  AlcantaiaR. 234iAltea.ToMro  .<....   153 

Agrico 531  Alcazasd  Saqnu*  ...  337  Alvarex  .Marti&'s  B.  638 

i  Agripoli....^^.....  205  Afcoa  B«.i.....'k.     96  AniaJil.  ....«....;-•  205 
VOL,  II.  2  F        . 


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578  I K  i>  fe  X. 

P«i«  P^  F9» 

Aoiantea.; ^^  Angdo,  St.  M<raat  209  Apieria  !!.••••«•••   Sfi 

Anuodcbi  •••«..••  29S  Angle  R 8  Aq«kb .««.    S2 

Amizrab sis  Aagtotril.  .•.•^••»  »^  AnksTowen    ....   35J 

AfliU«tciiie    13  Angra  Pequeaa....  544  Arabida Mouatain. .    IM 

<  Ambo/. 511  Angra  dotBuifot..  504  Arabler  1 365 

AnboruBaak  ....  513  Anlmaboo 530  Araiche,EI 457 

AmbofM  1 536  Aada,  Portdta....  317  Arbra, Cipe Dei  ...  SSI 

Aflftbils   R. 541  Anne't«St.B.,  West         Arca^on.. 5 

AmbrofioB 544      Coort  Africa....  504  Areas  1 519,   588 

AdM^coa 530  AAne's,St.B.  Ditto  «I5  Arcadia 965 

AttOBtl ...•    S5  Aane's, St.  C.  Ditto  505  Arduugd  I dV 

AmorgoL 317  Anne'«,ScC.  Ditto  524  ArchipdacD Jll 

AmorgoPtaloL...  317  Aane*s»  St.   Shoals  Aroo  L..... 387 

Ampotta.... 156      Ditto 524  Ai^obispo   R 73 

Ampuriaa 160  Aanobooa  L 546  Ardea  R. •••       7 

Attstertan  Fort  .«  530  Annunciation  a ...  543  Aft  R. ••   179 

AnalK^  Black  Sea..  386  AntaionL 81   AtfensdeMlHr  ••••  160 

Afialb,  Africa  ....  500  Ansiolaa. 168  Am  B. 83 

Ananas  Rocks  ....  321  Aataodros  • 278  Arethosa   Fointito  S6 

Anaighia  386  Aotem  R. 529  AfgensR.. 180 

AncoberR. 528  Aiti  Ipseral 330  A«gentera  L 312 

Ancona 211  Aiti  Mik>  1 312  Atgentera  fitant..  132 

AndaroR 77  AnU  Paroa  !....••  316  AkgottoU   297 

Anda^e 24  Aati  Paxo  I •  296  Axgoeron  R. 7 

Andero»St 79  Antl  Rhium C  •  •  •«  262  Afgoin  B.  and  t..  601 

Andraoeia 165  Antibes ••  186  AtiaC. 28S 

Andraig. 165  AntiferC 2  Arisdi,El ^^  3M 

Abdra,  St. C.;....  227  Antigoaa  I ;«  367  AmI»  Cape<iel  ••*•  216 

Andraw^  St,  FtaMtf '  27  Antkich. 287,  288  Anuyroi 218 

AAdrew,  St.,  Ofpto  384  Antiochetta 284  AmoR. 191 

-Andrew,  St.  I.,  Sea  Antivari 256  Arqaes  R. ...••.••      7 

of  Marmora....  365  AntonU  a  Sou...  542  iUaerlna  1 506 

Andrew,    St.   R.  Antony,  St.B 175  Atsar.. ^  292 

Africa  .....•«••  527  Antony, St.  Port...  823  Attn  • «  259 

Ahdroe  1 321  Afttony,  St.,  Gnbna  528  ArtaXbwn. M 

Androe,  St. 174  Ants  R. 278  ;totakki ...«».«...  ^30 

Aneorar •  SI84  A|Mun •  ^1  AHoalsia  ...;....  6iS 

Anfras  O.. 173  Apea  HiU  B 337  ArdR. 2fl 

AtagKUO. 980  ApoUoaia 528  D'AitaAC8|ie.««.  00 

Angela,  St.  a 1169  Apoaoweira  , 315  JftneOs  •«.«*«««i.  M\ 


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Page  Page  Page 

Anaia...« 497  AMfhlWii 369  BtaieR.  •..••••«••  17# 

Ascea *.  206  B.                  Baniento    m 

Asie    509  Bate  JC 2^7  Baatia  1 617 

Asproponiai  1 3U  BadeloM 1^  Bwtia 22^ 

AsftropoumoB.....  361  Base W  Baation  of  France..  343 

Asprospitia 263  Bno  C. j234  BatoB. 906 

Aaaem  Kalati 981  BaA  335  Battenttein MB 

Aasinara  I..*.2S9»232  Bi^eap  1 136  Baltow 6S» 

Aaainee  1^28  Baige  B 130  Booa  C 30^ 

AflBo    278  Baladdm 38^  Bi^ »1 

Aatara 134  Balaguer 156  Bayooa   f^ 

AteUaroB. 284  Ba)asi»   342  Bayonne 24 

AdKiiab....» 38o  BalchiO^ 373  BagroU  C m 

AthenaO 271  BaBaOia 907  BasUnao  1 241 

Atlienf.CilBr 272  BallangvoiorB. ...•  613  Beauvok 22 

Athoaliont 276  Balotta,LaR. 73  Bee  d'Ambez    ....      9 

Airi 2019  Banaoal 624  BiMlagiy 1^34 

Anbege    FoimvO)*.*    23  Baii^I|>p^^ 165  Beder  1 176 

Anbina^  St 14  Baoce  I. 623  Beirut 289 

Avde  B. 180  BaidaiBL .614  Balbinal 321 

AndierneC 3  Baaqoiale  B. 613  BelemC 71 

AndierneTbwii....    20  Baradumas 639  Bala  B 540 

Angoita 286  Baibara,  St..B....  636  BeUelale 27 

AqH 13  Barbaa   C 604  BeOet  B 146 

AurayB. 8  BarbemaloB 636  BeHeviUe    •••    16 

AorayTowii 20  Baoca  Deaart 346  BeOenie.C... 231 

AvIhkB 13  Baroelona  167  BeUd  B ....••  234 

AneaL..*. 365  B«devr  C 2  Bdloi^mlo  1 321 

Ainen  B *....      8  Bacgea  d'OUonne . .   32  BeDoote  B 513 

Afal  1 26  B«rl... 908  BeOonte  1 6U 

AnaiaL.r*. 367  Bodaii.^ S69  Bembaiooge  B.....  643 

Ai«iio.... 168  Bodctto.^ dl09  Ben  B 511 

iLyenMia4iake.....J04  BvUiigaa    ........    9A  BenandetB M 

AHlea 68  BaniefiUe »..    U  BendeArekli 383 

ibmadMa y  Barracaa  .•.^.^••».  531  Beagal^Bodu.....*  624 

Airim <ii8  Bwaconda...*..*.  5J3  BangD  £ 642 

fm..^...^ M9  Bir«iii.R.. .«.*•.•  388  Besgnda    j6I2 

I^B..«.^..r i  BM^IakLde 26  Benicado    156 

Ayanaale  «••..«••    86  BMott.  i. 322  Boddorme! 143 

AMBMa  .r. .••••«  668  BaqaeBood. 38  B«ddoniie Town  .«  153 

Azoph Sea. .,.,.«•  387  BaiaswaShod.,,..  524  Benin  B 5H 

2p2 


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58Q  INDEX. 

Page  Page  Pmse 

DeaitOy  St.  R 537  BUmcoC,  Greece..  274  Brain *  ..  3S4 

Be^Ja   R 580  Bhmco  C,  Syria..  290  Bras,  St.  C S42 

Benrie  R B  Blanco C* Corfu....  294  Brasauolo  I S27 

Brquet,  U U  Blanoo  a,  Barbary. .  343  Brave  1 5t4 

Berbie 527  Blanco  C,  West CMiSt        Braza   I 2S1 

Beioe 531       Africa 500  Brehat  1 26 

Bereira  ..«. 520  Blanco C,  Arguin  . .  504  BrentaR. VS 

Berezea  1 377  Blanes ...  160  Bresle  R. 8 

BaAiurMer 13  BUretR 8  Brest U 

Bermeo 78  Blaye  ..^ 23  Briare  Canal H 

Bernard  C 511  Bleda    I.. 177  Brienx,  St  B 3tt 

Bemlere 15  Boa  Mount 71  Briadisi an 

Beroumderc 364  Bocaut  5  Broda  R. jft 

Beaos   R. ^.*  158  Bodroon   1 281  Brondolo 213 

Betan90S •....    83  Boin  1 517  Brothers,  Two  I. ..  •  311 

BetbuneR 8  BoisieChaise 28  BrotBers,  Three  I..  343 

BiancaC, Corsica..  223  Bojand  R* 256  Biouage      22 

Bianca  C,  Sifily  ..  234  Bon  C... 344  BranetC 5 

Biancho  C,  Turkey  280  Bona  G 342  Brusa 366 

Biantz     24  Bonifiu:io 223  Bmyere/ La U 

Bias  R 267  Bonny  R. 536  Boarcas 103 

Bidavt 24  Bordeaux «..'..    23  Bv4iiah 384 

Bidaseoa.  R. 74  Borea   R ^..536  Budua 355 

BiedJean.R.......      8  Borgo  I 320  B«ff  L. ..........  53( 

Bierro  Lake 179  Boaeq  R.. 8  Bugacoui  C 3tt 

Biggins- B..-. 543  Boaphorus ;  368  Bogeceh S4S 

Bijoga  .I.*... Me  Botroe 528  B«gia 348 

Bilbao^... : 78  Botroun 289  Bakari. SO 

Bintan.^.^ 515  Botteco   1 241  Bulam  \...^. 519 

Blrd».I..^ 514  Botti.I.,..^.^ 196  BonchR....! M 

Biscay B.... ,     3  Boadjnoun.. :282  Budoni  1. ........  830 

Biscegliar.........  209  BoagbsR.... ......  535  BttrgP9.  ^....^  .^..  373 

Bisiagos   1........  518  Bouin  1 ;...    28  Bwguiidy  Caiial.. ..    U 

Bissao   1 517  Boulac.*.. 354  Bunaso  .Port.^ . . . «  111 

Biisaofla 525  BonlogBt......^...'*..    13  Borregncg.  R. .401 

Bizerta.  .......*...•  343  Boihrtos Xake. . . . . •  350  Buraalum. a. ...••...  513 

Black.  C 279  Bourgneuf i4,  21  Borzano.  C «.......,  W 

Black  iU)cks  ......    26  Boumon. ;...;  276  Butriiito :2M 

Black  Ground  ....  335  Boutry^ ......«.•.;  628  Byaa. .^«....^« 215 

Black  Sea  .........  356  Bradano.  B.: .207  Byta.« 2K 

BlancNcsa    1  Braganvoo   1. 186 


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IKDEX.  581 

C.              Page  Page  Page 

Ct;bea   153  Camarguel 78  CaracbeL  ...^....  518 

dbaida ,«..  546  Cambia  Porto  ••••  104  Caravi  I 321 

Qabes  G 346  Gambriis 156  CarbodraC 94 

Otfwurg 15  Camerina  237  Carbon  C.  .,.*•.•;••  ^^ 

GatMrera  I.  Baleares  167  Camerons  R      ....    536  Carbouera  C. 230 

Cabrera  I.  Tuacany  227  Camioba  .........    103  Cardamyle 268, 

Cabrera  I.  Morea      267  Gamisa 252  Cardequin  R 8 

Gacamo .283  Campaniche  C 176  Cardiolissia  1 314, 

Cadiep  516  Campo.Rio 537  CarcDtan 16 

CaciaC. 230  Campo  Marino  ... .    209  CarinR. 82 

Cacoi^a 539  Gampo  More 223  Carlos  St 88 

Cacnnga  R 520  Campos 163  Carlos  San  156 

Cadaqoes... 160  CaocaleB 3  CarmelC.  and  Mount  292 

Cadiz.  G.. 72  CancaleTown   ....     17  Camero  G.  .'. 249 

CadizCkj 86  CancbeR .....  8  Cametoi. ........    193 

Caea  I.  ....,.,..':     96  Candas 80  Camil. 343 

Cagliari 231  Gandeton 284  Camia  ......... ..    261 

Gaife «...   291  Candia  1 303  Garocobil..... ....  340 

Cairo  Grand  ......  253  Candia  Town  ....    308  Cartbage 344 

Gala  Figueira   ....    163  Candiano 211  CartbagenaB 141 

Gala  Longa 163  Candili 261  Cartbagena  Town . ,   152 

CaWs  7^     12  Candolel 250  Caacaea 104 

Calamau  ....   254  267  Ganea 307  Cassainanca R.  ....  516 

Calamis.... 256  Canels... 75  Cassandria 275 

Galamo  I.  ........  261  CaneroR.... 73  Cassanatica  . . .  i . . .   211 

Criaurial. 272  Caaet  de  Mar,  Spain  160  Cassis  ....^ 1^ 

GalbardcBank....       2  Canet,  France 181  Cassiu?  Mount  1 .. .  288 

Cdddai  R.  73  Caime. 511  Cast  St.  ..  .'..^....     18 

GalebarR.  ........  536  Cannes,  France  ... .  13  Gastel  de  Ferro  .. ..    152 

Call  I.    ..........    327  Cannes  R. 180  Castel-a-Mare 203 

CaUmine  I.    .♦.,..  327  Cannes  Town  ....    186  Castel-a-Mare 238 

Calle  ............   342  Gantln  C 500  Caitel  Peregrino  . . .  292 

Odlda..... 160  Caorlo 219  Castd  Rossa  . i  274,  283 

CakwiPort    331  Caper  I. 327  Cartel  Nuovo 255 

:€alojero Rocks  ....  321  Capo,d*Anzo 194  Gastel  de  Stagno  ..  253 

Caly^os  B.  ......       2  Capo  d'Istria .248  Gastel  Veccbio  '.M .  240 

Cilvi. 223  GapraC.  .......*,.  297  Castel  Vetrano  *. . . .  237 

i^mAR.  ,.. 538  Gvn4al.  ........  227  Gastij^ione !'...... .   192 

.CamagU  ......,,..   190  Gaprji.. 204   Castrades  .;;i.*....  295 

CamaretRoad  ....     20  Gapsijfli  ...V 300  Castri  G.  ,,'.'. 270 

Cimarina  B..,*.,.     83  Caraboa 364  Castro 305 

2p3 


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5M  iN^EX. 

Page                                Page  Pme 

C^MioMiriao..;..  I tt  CMno  ..«< 385  Qcrie..*; A 

Omtnfci 81  OervefaraC.  ...v...  145  OkadeUft ^..^    179 

OtttmUrdiiies....     79  OerreraTown 153  OttaNiioTa. M^ 

Cbstroin.*..« 385  OniaNnoni 211  Oitta Veccbia MS 

Ctrtsnia  ..........  935  Oetraro  S66  CHrie 5tS 

Cttaia S95  Gette ; 188  aodaDdla ITS 

CMero 254  CettignaR 951  Ciiu  Mooat 394 

CatheHrieSt.! 326  Oata 388  GSvHa-a^are 989 

GBtberine,    St.  R.  Caembra 26  GbiuVeediia 198 

W.  C.  6f  Africa  517  Cttimbra 104  Otkm 9S4 

Ciflieriiie,  St.  R.  do.  538  Chalkb  1 367  OaraSta. 97 

CatlM^caLa 211  Chama 529  aaiaSta.C. 837 

Cittanzaro 287  Oiam  Lhaan  . . . . . .  367  Ctariua 975 

Cattaio 254  Chapeo  Point  542  dementi  Sc  1 90 

Cape  de  Ctttt....       2  Charadio 984  Coast  Castle Ca|K . .    598 

CaradoR. 183  Charca  R. 251  CoanzaR. 989 

Cavagpa 957  CharenteR. 9  CoesnanR. 7 

CavailUi 4....  257  Charybdii 193  Coliioare 188 

Cavailla 270  Chassiron  T6wer  ..     29  Colo 949 

Catalel. 519  Chaim6ed*Ea  ....     13  Colomb  v. M9 

Ca?allo Porto 231  CheledonlC 983  Colomlirrtiei  I.  ...   177 

Cavalier  Fort 982  Chenmn....; 271  Coloras  I -•.   172 

CarallerPort 284  Cherborau 16  OotomiaC 987 

CavaUyR. 527  Cherrf  ......;,...  999  CoboniC "971 

Caval6i,B 504  Cherro  I. 950  Cotorea 181 

Caxal. 520  Cherson 376  Cotoori  1. 97S 

Caxtosl 961  Chli^ypaC.  ........  293  CokmriC. .278 

Cayeitx 13  ChiaimsaO 264  Combt 1 319 

Cayman!  t.    ..:...  314  Chiantri 190  Come 15 

Ceyon  83  CMotta 913  CcmifaiaC. 9M 

CazegatI 518  CMtrJea 968  CommacMo . . .  919,  919 

Cedna 192  Cbonm  Tchesme  ..  980  CdmiaHiiU 591 

Ceddra B2  Chriatiaaial...  310,  315  .Ctmipoila Ml 

CefolonUL 296  ChrManshmir 531  Coacwnefla 91 

CeiOa  328  amarea 258  Omdieel ••    96 

CekeC 257  OmarQ  1 344  CondnelR. 910 

Celindro 284  Onti^ 94,  104  CoBdekmote  1 01 

CenUR. 14,6  Cfotat  U 184  CoHe^ioL 90 

CepetC 184  OrcdlaC. 194  Omeiloa 985 

Cerigol 299  OreOaC..;.. 905  Omfisnne  T. 74 

Cerigottol 301  ClNTgal.  «    71  CcmgoR...^ 141 


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Pi^                              Fage  PMe 

CoBil  .•-•.•••*•*••    W  Crimea..., ^^  DelHmmel. IH 

CoqU  L  Bmrb^nr  ••  339  €^C.  Aji^Ua..v  2^  D^phinPon.  ^        330 

GoaojenI 82  CHoC.  Candia  ••••  2^0  PoreiuVer 103 

GMojeral.  M%H>rca  167  Orlisa ^ 2(3  MS<n-R.  . ......     73 

Coiioja^  1 177  GmeSta.. 237  Dehnina  ^ 522 

ConqnetLe  .,..  20,27  Ctola 2»6  Delosj..... 312 

ConndMhwrg  ...^..  630  GroiticU  ...«••••    21  Hdpene Port 2^6 

CbastaiitiiiQple  ••..  368  Gmisette  C 183  Jkmbiu  R ,  520 

Oonta  Porto 231  CnwB. W  Penares  1 334 

€Mtt»w 274  C^topa 207  PwU 153 

CopiwI..., 204  CmtoyU ^  P«rbe]rda 500 

CXinunaiiiyii .« 630  QsQyon 19  Perkas  ....'••^..«   373 

Corbele  !...%•...  618  Cnn  9ta.  544  Pqrinlsh  .•.....,  251 

Corcubkm 83  CiU)eUp8 157  Pescargo 77 

CofdoimUglit  ...      9  Cuchiaril 209  DetelR.  8 

Corfu  I ,..   294  Cultera 154  Deva  R.  . ,; 77 

CcMTiimi 263  CiMUa--*'*  ••*•     84  Perili  I. 270 

CttrifO^l 637  QtmillaBi 175  Dial...... 309 

CiHcme 83  Comina  I. 246  Diamante 206 

CorotKOaC 71   Cuminonal 246  DianaLake 220 

Coron...,,, 267  Cvrco 284  Pidette  R. 7 

Coroiu9i|.  ••»••••   260   Cunolaril.  ...•••   261  Dieppe...., 14 

Cortelai^    ., 228  Cyaneal 371   Dieu  Isle 28 

Cpruuia  .,«,..••.    38  Cy^nusR. 284  Dimitri  San 294 

Gorroidni .q. 504  Cyprian,  St.  Spain. .     81  Diaal 206 

CorzoUil 2^  iCyprian,St.Amca..  504  Dive 76 

CpMmtssal. 317  CTprosI 332  Dirette  R. 7 

Omflbl 301  p.  Pizcove 528 

CqiBnmtll.  ,..^...    24  pjOde^aO 366  Dnieper  R. 376 

CwP«W»e.C.  ......    183  DriloPort 274  Dniester  |t  375 

C^nt^Uil 367  Dallas 14  Dodo 627 

Cf«ttan<;e.. .......     17  Damala 271  Dol 17 

009zaR. 641  Pamietta 354  Dolons  268 

CofP. 643  Pttmor 293  D0mi9g9St.ll 516 

Co^diteC.  ...t.t.ii  341  DandaR. 542  PomingoSt.!!.  ...  53(S 

C(nza  h 263  PanlaR. 620  Pon  R. 388 

Orati^  B.  207  Dmna 13  PordogBeR. 9 

Oawlord  I.  •«....  621  Danube R. 374  DoroC. 274 

AtosC. »..,  144  Piurdandlep 360  Poo^menezB 3 

Oeeneam  .•.-•.  SM  Pascfi 325  DouimenezTown . .   20 

0M.^.44...»4...,    14  DattoIoJ 4«  241  Douro  B.  27 

2P4 


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6S4  IKDfll. 

Pa«c.  P<«c                                  Pag* 

DouroPiMage  ....  321  Eitktt; 364  Fangal  Port 144 

Vn^OtMittt 261  Ericho-.- 257  Faoo HI 

t)ragobt:tliC. 163  Erirandlo  A 275  Fano  1 294 

Dragonera  I. ......  166  Erythrtt 279  Faon..... tW 

DragobcaM  I.'  .....  301  Eryx  Mount  .......  233  Farino  Porto 344 

Drepttw C. •...•.'. ..  275  EscaOe/ ...... ..^.  12  Farolhrnee 71 

DrinG. 256  EscaUo  4c  Diiert  . .  509  Firo  C. 233 

Drome  R. 7  Escraros  R.  535  Faro    Ml 

Dromol 322  Eskilis  Port 282  Fasalis  C 85 

DucatoC;  •....•....  296  Eiparta  1.  .^...•.. ..  177  Fasouro  R    811 

Daden  6ott -R.   ...  283  EflpichelC '..  95  Falsa.... 381 

Duina !.. 248  Esposeode  «« 103  Faako  1.  * 536> 

Dulcigno  .' . ; ; 25^  Esquilan  h  ^ 186  Favagnana 239 

Damet  I.  ........ .  28  EBqoirkes  Rocks  . .  347  Fecanp 14 

Dunkirk  .........  U  Estaca  Point 82  FedaU  I.  .  i 499 

DurangoR. ..;....  78  Estapona. '161  FegalteG.  ..^ 340 

DnnuttoG.  .;.•.;'..  256  Estera  R.  ..;.....  73  F^licudi  1 241 

Durdan  R. .  . ; ; . . .  7  tat'irm  C.  ...;... .  537  Feliu  de  Goixoi/  St,    168 

E.    ^  Elaplca 13  Feriyo Porto 287 

EbroR.  .........  146  Etna  Mount 233  Feret  Cw 6 

Kdko  bake*.... ..  350  EtrCuigeres  Rocks-..  SliS  Fermaao  .  ...v.. ..    210 

Kdremid  ....;.;..  277  Eu  .;....;...,.. .  13  Fernando  Port- . ...    144 

rgripo  ..; 274  Euffenia  1.. ...... .  209  PemeyB   4^ 3 

tlbal..... ..  225  Eupatoria... 381  FerratC   ..-. 341 

Elefisis  ...... .v.. .  273  Euphcrala  St.   .;..  206  FerroC. 3tt 

Elena  Point, ......  141  Euphrates  R.  ......  533  Ferrol  .  4 82 

Eletot  ....v. 14  Euripus  Strait  123,  273  FcrrorfC.  ....  ..^.    166 

Elizabeth  B.-^.^ 544  Eu«pe  C.    1 543  FlangBfofci/ is! 

Elic-R.  ...v 8  Ex  SenideR.   :...  283  FWari  R. 362 

Elmina  ..........  529  Eya..-..;;;   188  Figari  Port 223 

ElneB.  ..........  m                  .  F.  Ffgo  Mount  ..... .    96 

Emeuiah  C.  ......*  372  Factory  I,  ........ .  521  Flgueira... 96 

Emperor's  Peiot...  143  Falcon  C  Yvica  ..  176  FUjueriCw^ 231 

Engia  G.    ....A..  271  Falcon  C.  SaitHnia  230  Piguero  POrto  4 . . .   284 

Engial.  ..4 272  Falcon  C.  Btrbary  340  Finale  .»..#»... ..    190 

Englisbl.  ..\../..  279  Prfconera  1/ .  4 . . . .  321  PiiiislemG. 71 

EntanLagoon 610  FaliooR.    ........  383  Finistem  Town  ..     83 

Entrecen'sLako  ..  179  FaUeuhs  .  .v.... ..  8  Flnona  ••^.^J 249 

fioR. 73  Pamagusta........  334  Honda 283 

'KP<*  •...  534  Faoari  Port  sv.».'.  259  Ploreuaa^  81. 224 

fiphwus 281  Fanagoria  ,•.. 387  RshB. MS 


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IKDBX.  585 

^                          Page.  Page                                Page 

rmmara  R 249  Fmneoddsa R.  »...   iS8  O^ft  R 517 

Fiume..... 849  Ponta^  B.   .: 541  OtbUeb  ..^^  w....   288 

Finme  Freddo  R.  ..   235  Fuirada  I.    l€T  Oeer,Caped»  ....    502 

Fkimlcini  R. 212  O.  GeniM  1 270 

Fiwminarei  R.  ....   232  Gftbesifth  3^6  Genoa  .  .  ^. ..'...    19t 

FosHaR.. 211  GaboBR. 537  Gefloese  Port  . . . .    342 

FoixR.  ...., 146  Gaeu  G. 195  GeaoFeee  PeK  . . . .    382 

Fottdi  ..., 195  Gahola  I.. 250  George,  St. 252 

Fontarabia 76  Gai  Porto  , 295  George,  St.  C.  Turkejr  275 

Forcal.   ..^, 252  Gaidronb  i  1 272  George^  St.  C^  do.  270 

ForcadooR.  ......    535  OaidnmitiLOuitfa  310  George,  St.  ^ M2 

Formenteral 176  Gaidoori  i.  366  Gebrga  Stt  L    Sea' 

Formia  I.  ..••....    328  Gajota  1 204      of  Maiwora  . . . .   369 

Formicas  Roeka^   ..228  Galam 510  G«ir9e>St.d'Ati>osI.  321 

Formumlas  Rocks..   241  Galaxcithi. 263  Gedrge,3t..Skiro  ..  322 

Formosa  i.     518  GWdan^  St. 174  George,.  St..  de  & 

Formow  C  ..r,^..    535  Galesereignel.  ..*.  184      Miae  ,••*•««...  529 

ForroosaR.  ......    5S4  Galita.1 847  Geraoe 207 

FomelMPortww*.    173  GaUe,  Lake  De  . . . .   179  Gerbil. 349 

Foros  G.  ,.4 373  Oallina  L 519  Gereste  C. 274 

f'owl  B 542  Galllnarl  I.  ......    190  Gbemlik.H 366 

FoK  •••^ 8i  Galliaas  R 524  Gheltfkdjft  .......   386 

FozLake  ..*...;.    179  GalURock 205  Ghydros ^.4   383 

^•co"  *-  • W*  GallipoU.......208,  362  Glanati  I. 196 

''^•^•♦St.R -543  OalloC 239  GianatJI.  .i, 228 

Francwco  U.w...     78  OalloC 267  GiarettaR.  • 234 

Vt^awU  R 146  Gambia  R *...   514  Giardiiii    -^ 235 

P»n«)»i^lc -    209  Gambia  I 524  GiarepR  ........ .    544 

FrateUll.   ..« 327  Gamboat  R.. 520  Gibraltar    147 

Fredeadsborg 531  Gandla  154  G^glio    Iv-..^.^*..    228 

Fredericksboii^...*   528  Ganot    ....♦,....  363  Oijon-i^ .«...;...;     80 

Frehel  C.  e 3  Garigliano .  R. 195  Gifle%- 8t« 22 

Frejus    ..^ 1^6  Garoane  R.^.»...  9  GiraIatta-0. >w<...   224 

Frencfal.- ;  .   501  Gastoani «  264  Girapftra-.t  .^.. ..  310 

Fria  €;.».«  :».k..    543  Gatte,  Capede  ..  141  Girgeoti.^.^.... ..  237 

FrioR.  .v..^t>...    14$  Oatta,  Cape  ilel  ..   334  Girond^  R.  w t 

Frisco  R.   ........   927  GattoHUeC. 2  GialiaNvtra......   200 

Frioa  ............    165  Gavieral 81  GlaucnaR,. ......    283 

FHttU  Strait  .^..t.   24^  GayaR..    ..« 146  Glogof 933 

Frementor  C    ....    163  Gvfoa  • .« 86  Glennaii  L  •• 37 

FrantlsDaii 182  Gaza  .•••»•,.•••.  293  Gtobook^ •.••....   ^f 


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Page                               Page  l^age 
(H^TI  UiQIoTr..  9»9  CNiadal«Ti*rE.  146,154  UiMUqr9^Q..\....<.        5 

Ooit  L 6U  Owidaletle  R,  ....    73  H«gl,... »ia 

Qttell ttt  CtMdaJwM^a.  M    UtfUogoe^La *1« 

(Ml  Coast,  OuiiiQA  429  Giiadal  Medina   R.  145  H#iifleitr. . . . , 15 

iM>   K  391  QwidalqiamlB.    •«  75  1ioii(u^,3Ul.,,,.*   186 

e^loDiu   365  QtMdaJiMm  B*   ••  145  Hw>ii<ie,S^ 15 

«o«ioiiiua.  *••«••  3lt  a«fidi«ii»B. 75  HoppH:^.  Si,  C  ...    IW 

«Mza]MdeCijitit>O.504  OwdimB. 145  MmardiaC.  ,,,...   349 

OqoMft  L   565  e«arda BSfipuatl.,, 26 

ewniab 365  thvrdwiw:    ..^..t   153  (iooridge   Mt 346 

CtaloR. •••    145  OtibboHHO  R»  ..«.   543  Ito^  •• ^ 

Goree  I.    ...'.....   511  Gner  B.  w.^....  7  |i|icrt»  <;...•,. ..   \49 

«M«Qi»  I aS8  Cl«eraiulft..4 21  |iydr%l,,»** ......   271 

6}Dri^  B.  »...,.  568  GueUria 77  Uf^ul 371 

Qooin    .•••....••  665  GsiamartC 513  Ujfr^   ••• 185 

Goxot •»...*  315  Guiiiea  *.  488                   I- 

a»grR.  «.,.....»•      8  GnrntUB 564  lbn4IK..,«, 376 

OtteaJ.  GaiuUa  ••   310  GOf  R. 8  MmQ  B, 256 

(teoJMKIalu  ....  3^  H-  l^U.,. 566 

GitbiMa 367  lUifaa  L 340  IsUakp  R 264 

6^?i4p. ..........  210  HmUcI ..;    tt  IBieo^Sccpe  , 544 

Gn^Q Cmt, Q«toea  439  ita&«8Mouiit.....  372  Piwu^  B.  ........  272 

Qain^   Bio    .  ..  518  Hague,  Cape  la....      3  M^^  h  ,. 339 

i9riuiicii«R.  •.^•,.   3(i4  fl^oeviUe 14  hUfittru  B.  •.^..  369 

GtaoTme 17  luiff^ api  fuorpMlal. 351 

GtSrcOiiWi  ...»•..     13  UHicamasnui 282  MJeC. ;...  389 

Gicgo  PqrtQ 353  Itaies  R. 8  Mian  Bar   ......  536 

Gffgo  Q.  .....«.».^   334  HmmaiDet   345  UuMi  •.••..••••  383 

Gitlet9  BqcM  •»..     35  HMratchR. 341  laftima 538 

6taB7. ••*#••. .^.*    15  Harfleor.. i5  laiada. « 373 

Orim|9U.1C  f«...  378  Hamd^race......  14  tell  L...., .•«...«  322 

Cbrim«a4G.  ..»..^  186  HmB. 78  lokaoniR. 371 

Griol.  ,.. «•  566  HeUetpont..* 369  ioaiaii  I.    ........  263 

Gitaeff  (X  ...<.«.«     2  Her  L «    36  llMwra  1 339 

6toaix  I. »»    37  IfcrauUB. ^  179  ?Pff»....t»,^M^«.-  395 

Groa  &.«,.»..»,   187  Harcole  Burt «... .«  ifiS  Mm  I.  ,p.,,,....    74 

GmaaL   «.«.w»..*  143  Herai.  .:.......«  564  Wl  B.    .i..;....*..  356 

OfMiaU  ...«..«.  176  Here^CapeLa....  3  l^ro  I.  ..  >.......    79 

Omaa  1. 351  HkreyB.......^  ..  $  ii*i4l...^....^«..  198 

Groyne  ..«..^....    M$  HM^Tqwv^.^...  185  Mia G.^. ........  374 

GuadaiAaB. .«•«.««  145  fUgoonlaX  ....••  75  hpowr  >/^.r..«.»  386 


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Mgni  «..•.•;>.•..    16  .hunde  Foz^St.  ..  165  Kffimili  €..».«....  MS 

U-I^iknM  G J66  Jonin,  St. 14  KUengo   R *.  H» 

iMtte  R 8  J«bi  C 5M  Ktobom 897 

^Ular  Port  276  JvbiaR....* 73  Kiiig't  JU fUSf 

Istria  <^«..«. fi48  Jtten  C 176  Kios 866 

Itn^boli  ««•««.<...  385  Jnnco  R. 73  Kkil  Imak JiS 

line.  «•*««.......  341   JmikR 62&  Kissamos  O Wt 

iTory  OoMt  ......  439  Junotl r...  278  Kluey  a  ....'...  Ml 

IioftM  R. 4  848  Jura  I.  319  Kitchik  Mioder  R.  281 

J.  Jum  I. ,...  302  KiosUnJ 27^ 

Jftdd'Aiiuaa. t»  hum  Pattlo  L...^.  3fl2  Kl^>m«tzB.  ......  643 

JA    ............  292  K.  lUilokytyfte 968 

Jalea  278  Kaii  Kheoi  366  Ktlokytbia  Town ..  9(9 

Jumbfar   I 619  Kaffir 382  Ko^britbo  .4....  31j( 

Ames  Fort. ...ilSy  631  Kaisarea 292  Koagstein §39 

JmoarR.. 536  Kafekria. 373  Kotlof.... /I.  881 

JatamryC.    277  Kales  R 524  Koctuni  R.. 275 

Janiftarksl 399  KaUus !..•..« 369  KreraiU 257 

Jardanw  R 264  KtimivsR. 388  fibaa  R.  306 

JarosL 184  KaloUmna  I.  *..*  366  Kopribazar 283 

Jatte  I « 517  KamoU  I. 366  Kittchuk  So«i  R...  371 

Jnuo^  R 8  Kara  Hi4Ur  ......  283  L. 

McyllimakR.  •...  884  KaraKerman. 374  L^oy 103 

JoHkala.... 882  Kara  Sooi  R.   276,281  Lagostal 2H 

teemio  B.    ••....497  Karazon  Port ^4  Laguado  € 684 

JlftU 842  Kardane Sooi  R.  ..  291  Lahon  C.  andR....  527 

Jlllifi«e 6U  Karkil 326  Laita  R. 8 

^^ - 8W  iUrlQiMigo 269  Lampedota  1 946 

8t.  John  1 ^,  279  KaanabacI 619  Latnpiool «...  246 

81.  Mm  de  Day..    18  Keitb  Reef 347  LampMki  .. 943 

St.  John  dt  L« .«    24  Kdek   R 884  Landemau  R %, 

St.  JobaC,  C»iia388  Kemkk 366  Labdcrmitta 278 

8t.  JohiiI.,Cfeliidei818  |fc|Me 988  Undrofa  R. ,    81 

8t.  Jb^Port,  TiM89t  Kerakia  ..........  268  Laoete  1 819 

8t.  JobnR.)  W.  €.         Keraiowit  .....^..  386  f^grSiu>. ....,,  ,     1^ 

AiHoa..... 826  Kereapi  C 383  f^^gw^jof  Canal  ••'  It 

at.  MibR.,  ditto..  689  Itotenil. 3a  Lmuiioa 18 

et.  Jolua.,  ditt*..  68r  Kertcfae  ......;...  388  Lao  R. 996 

St.  JdmR.,  ditto..  668  Keiiatei4i   378  Upida. 919 


**«*  ^    ' 179  Bwaoa. »«•«  S77  Laredo   .•••»«.•••    79 

JimkaKonda......  616  KSd  I ^691  Lmaca 334 


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588  I  IT  D  B  X. 

Page  Page                                  Pa^ 

Laroa  ..,•• 385  Lavanzal 239  Lorient 2» 

Lano 282  Lereche  C 167  Lorpagna    • IM 

LMtrea 80  L«rita   1 317  Los  1 520,  S21 

Lamua 288  Leyra  R 96  St.  Louis  Port ... .     » 

UtruieG 192  Leyra  R.    8  St.  Looii  1 508 

Mount    ....    71   Lez  R 179  Loup  R. \m 

tR.v 8  LexardaR 15  Luanco   89 

i«venza 191   Lezardieux 18  St.  Lucar    « 86 

taxe 88  Leuuro  R 7S  Loooos  R 497 

Laye  R, 9  Ua 298  Lucrine  Lake    ....  201 

U7re.de  Mahon  L.  174  Uamone  R. 220  Ludra 346 

LdNunioD  Mount..  285  Liane  R. 7  Lwiio  1 2M. 

Ubida. 346  Ubanus.  Mount ... .  285                    M. 

Mmnda  R. 541  LioOka  G. 205  Mabeira  C 342 

Leehnum   263  Lie   R. 8  Macarslia    251 

LechonesRoclcs....  103  Lima  R 102  Maceira 104 

LedoC 542  Limacbas  1 340  Maceira 335 

Legan  Port. 19  Idmasole 334  Machichaco  C. 70 

St.  Leger   ........    14  Limoaial. 326  Macri, Turkey Ev.    276 

Lii^om  ..........  191   Linares  R. 7  Macri,  Turkey  Aaa  283 

Lemno  Potamo  ....  270  Lindo....» 326  Maeronlai    L     ....  273 

LeronosI 323  LinguettaC 327  Madame. L    30 

Leatrisca  Core  ....  176  Linosa  !..« 342  Madelaine^  La  ....    18 

Leon  I 88  Lipari  I......;....  239  Madeiaine  L 230 

Leone  Porto. 272  Lipbol.  .-. 327  Made  Soni  R    ....  291 

Lepanto  G.. ......  262  Lisbon.. v 98  Biadiah  Lake 360 

Lepe. 86  Lisca   Bianca  I....  241  JJadona  L 306 

LequietioR 77  Lisca  Neni  1 241  Malona^  Port  de  la  300 

LeriUa  L 322[  Ussa  L 250  MKandre  ^ 281 

Lerins  ] 186. Lianas 80  Mafura  R. 344 

Lemas lO^Loango  R.  ....  ...  538  Mi^dalen    246 

Lero.L 327  LoanguiUy   Lake  ..  534  Magd^kn  1 511 

Lesina  Lake 209  Lobrcgat  R. 146  Magnb  Port 175 

Lesina  1 252  Loch  I 27  Mahon  Poit 170 

Lessay 17  Lodriuo   0 256  Maileoouiy  R.  ....520 

Lete 189  LoireR 9  Miina ^.^....268 

U^aB 180  Lomaria-Port.  ....    07  Mvie  1 18C 

Louea,.Ca.  SU.  Mb-  Longa  1 205  Mi^eaa  Lake..;....  179 

tiade.. 2Q8  Lengone  Porto....  227  liii^orea  L..v Ifl 

Lcucate 181  i;^>ez  Goazalves  0.537  Mtfaga   151 

Leukima 295  Loradaa  R.  ....;.  594  MaUga»VeIcs 153 

Levant  1 186  Loretta  210  Malebata  C.  ..•^..  337 


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INDEX.  5S9 

Page  Page  Page 

Maletha  C 307  Mariata :...  206  Matariah  1 351 

Malemba. 539  St.   Marina   79  Mataro   159 

Mallo    C 284   St/Marmo  Port  ..    86   Mati/bu  C.    .;.«,.  341 

Mallora  Bank    192  Mariapol     388  Matignon    ,,.,*....    I8 

St.  Malo  ....  2,  3,   18  Maritza  R 276  Matoc  Bank- 5 

Malpico 83  Marie  R 8  Matooty  C 588 

Malta  I.... 242  Marma 316  Matu  I.  ...  , 28 

MaliMnb^   R 536  Mannar  R.    386  Matti^Ji,  .../....  256 

Mamella  I. 365  Marmora  Sea    ....  363  St.  Mau  .,,,.......  246 

Mamora   1 498  Mannora  1 366  Maugio  Lake 178 

Manacpr. .........  163  Marmorice  Port    ..  382  MaiqnJ^soD  Channel    29 

.Manfredonia 209  Marogna 276  Mauya  Santa  1 296 

Mangola  R,    104   Marpla  1 82  Maurec 530 

Mangolia    373  Marsala 28t  MaT|t)yun}  ..  ..v..,  269 

Mankier-s  Rocks  ..    25  MarsalqaiySr 340  Mayta     .:.. 352 

ManoclC 511   Marsefliet 183  Mayiunba   B.    ....  538 

ManopoU    208  Marta  R. 193  Mazagan  ;..  500 

Manaoria,£t 499  Sta.  Marta  R.  •...    82  Maiaix>   ^2 

Mansuria    342  Martfenon 18  MazjO^JU  ..^ 542 

Mantcrel 519  Martigacs   ,..    179,183  Mea  R 536 

Mantincra  1 205  St.  Martin,  France     16  MwUna  I.  ........ -506 

Mapoora 385  St.  MarUn,   4itto..    29  MegaJo  Qiori 328 

Mar  Menor    142  St.  Martin,  Spain..    80  Meg^ra. 272 

Marabout  Tower   ..  351   St  Martin,  Pprtngal  104  Mehedial) ,.  345 

Marabut  C 343  Cap^Marfip  , 143  Mel  I, 519 

Marano   R.    219  St  Mary . le  Mpnde    16  Mel^  C. !.  270 

Parana  ,...    22  St Mary C, Anatolia 281  Melada  I.  .., 251 

Marathonisi   269  StMaiyG*  GambiaSU  Meladii  1 254 

Marbena     I6I   »t.Maiy»,  Pwo,...  316  Melaa  R 280 

«t.  Marcou  1 25  St.  Mary  B.  W.  C.  Mdeba  B.  ......  .  254 

St.  Maico   C 234       Africa 543  Mdetti 310 

Mardike ,    12  Mana  Sdrocpa.. ..  246  MdiaseUo  L  253 

MarechiaB 211   Marzagan    ;..  341,MeUe,  Capede  ....  189 

Marennw   •..    22  MaimaR..  ...i^..,  1 81  MendcfR.    ...,,.    73 

Marcno .....309  Matnoa  ..,,,..«».  IW^Me^n^  ,.^ 279 

Mareotis  Lake  ....  350  Masta  Carar%Vw»if»- 191;  Afei|z4l|Bh  j^^iqe...!  350 
Marctimo  I.  ...,\.  239:Ma«ary.v^.i->^--.9«6,Meriera   I,    ..!!!!  295 

Maivnerite^ Sta.  I..  186  MaisaiiU  R.  ..4^^,  M2,Me^  R.    \ 73 

Mariv  Sta.  Puerta     88  Mattico   C.  ., 380^  Me^*  \'.'.i  ....*.'.',*    13 

Maria,  Sta.  a  ....    96  Mata,,..,,,,  143,  113  Me«^})|ia, //.!!'..  378 
Maria  de  Mor,Sta.  160  Matq>an  C 268 


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Google 


dgo  INDEX* 

Page  Page  p^p- 

MMSiteBge  i; Ml   MftUe  R.   .....^.  S9$     '  N. 

MeMiBft  Strait  ...  9SS  Monaod IM  Nahr  el  Aasi  R.  ••  tt7 

Mc6iiii>  Towm  j...  gS4  Mondaca  E. 7t  Kahr  d  Mechal  B.     MS 

Neatv  I S51  Mondego  C,  SihOb    94  Nafar  IbnhimS.   ..  M» 

Mesvraio  E.«iiiC.  5BI  Bfondego  C.»  A6tea  532  Na^  Kader    R.   ..  28f 

NcMnlo€ 346  Mondego  R. leS  Nahr  Katli  IL SM 

Metawo  R.  ..  996,  818  Mondoneda  R.   ...    81  Nahr  Kibber  R.    ..  M9 

1l«telfaiL 3M  Monfoas     X8  Nahr  Tamav    ....  Sf9 

KetalTM    103  Mongat  159  Nanflo  L   517 

M^tteieonte   I.    ..348  Montift  83  Nanie  Pbido  I.    ..  S18 

«L  Mexfaa  R.  ..  •  537  BfonU  G.  585  Nansa  R 73 

Mese 182  M»QM.  Seca  P^iiK  .  541   NaalQi    fi 

iHeumm    .......  888  Monte  Christo  1. ..  »S8  Nao,  <3ape  de  U  ..   143 

Mcna  L    8M  Monte   Falcone    ..  348  Naples  Q. 19& 

St.  MkiMMl *    18  Monte  SantoC^SanL  881  Naples  Otj  29t 

8t.  Mkduwll.  ....    86  Monte 8auto>Ttateym  Ni4>oU  €r S30 

Bt.  Mkkael  ......    86  MontpelUer    ......  M2  Ni^H  de  Mahrarift  869 

MMKab    .«.,......  373  Morbcya  R.  480  NapoU  de  Ronanfa  878 

Mora  R.   «^......    73  Norbihaa  0 3  Naponl    18« 

MlkaUtia  R, 385  Jiorea  ..r 963  NarboBi|e  188 

WlaHO  ««.. ......  888  Moiino  Vorco  ....  189  Narenta  R.    951 

moM  381  MorialK 19  Nassao  Fort 538 

Mtlo  I.  ..........  311  Moro    79  NatoHca 361 

MImlian 84  Moroceo 681   Nanssa    9K 

Minenra  C.  .^....  196  Biotrico  * 77  Navarin 965 

Mii^R. 74  Mo« 182  Naria  R.   "7% 

Minorca  C   ......  166  Mondairia  365  Naada  1 315 

Minorea  1 4«e  Moast  O. 885  flt  Nasaire   91 

Won 184  'M<mtoa  R 888  8t.  Nasaredl  R.  ..  537 

Mirabel ..  909  Moirtons  I ^  Negro  a>  Btfbary  3€l 

Miranda  R *  74  Mogia 84  Negro C;W.C.Afttea5» 

Miranda  1.    82  'Mi^aoar 152  Negre  lH»nt 875 

Mirk*  C. 586  MoHoinR.    ......  3«0  Ndfloa*8  fitH  ....  387 

MisenoC 198, ^MK)  MraMtafa  «.    ....  365  Nemout    878 

'Misitra   .....»....389Miiria     *...;.....    84  Ndrvl    .; 198 

Modon    ..........  386  Mwfiedro   .......  !*5  NetirR.  .; 887 

Mogador    981  MnswiUii^^.....  8>8' Nirttnno »4 

Mola  C.    170>lyeanl4.    ...;...  319  NteynrR.     ........   96 

MoUecury  R.  *...380  MyhMsa *.•..*../.. ..  282  Niovia   ..; 683 

MoHetIa  888  MjriMba /••,,..«•,  882  Nicaria  f. 988 

Moligo  I.   .•• 313  Nice    ...... /.%..•  t81 


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Google 


INDEX*  0§1 

Pag«  1^  Pago 

San  Nicholo 9M  OdesM •••  3?C  Ortona  a  MM    ..AM 

8«n  Nicholo  *•....  309  Qdet  R. *..••     t  OieUk  I.  ........  dM 

8«i  Nlcholo 315  Odiel  R.    73  Oiero  I tft 

atti  Nkholo^  Tfaio    329  OMepat  R.    ......  361  0*a  Mount    279 

Sib  Nicholo  C.    ..  39$  Oeta  I ••  BiB  (Ma IfS 

St.   Nicholaf  I*    ^    27  Of 2»  Oitrai  R.   ,.  51( 

8U  Nicholas   I.    ..    78  Offooo  C.  ••* 71  OMni 2et 

SU  Nkhote  R.    ••  S3S  Me  d'Oie 29  Otranto   2et 

Nicolacf     378  Okbatta  B.  and  R.»I7  Ofa  I m 

Nkoda 833  Olenm  1 28  Ova  I 31f 

NIeotcra  ;...  286  OUattro  B.    281  Otidipol 378 

KttUft     78  OUnt ^....  184  Ozia  1.    ..«.«^..  887 

Mlembro  R. 78  Olpainu  Mo«at  .*  278  Oaondra    ....«..•  388 

NBe  R. 848  OmUali 378  P. 

'Nfago     /• 831   Ooiinbih  R.    ....680  Paetia 388 

Klo   1 816  Oaeglai 189  Mldla  Go^ ITS 

Kluri  1 3K  Otti  I ..•«    84  Paderodm ng 

NkMa  1 284  0tttoii  ......*..,«    78  Budraon Point  ....  841 

mwa  »• 9$;  t>^orto   ••.•. Ts90  Pago  I. ^.»»«  tM 

>!>mta  C.    ........  227  Opat  Fort    ..»•#«  96(1  PaiUood  C. S^ 

Mbe  R. 94  Oran 338,  341  PtfmboNif  ^..^»«,    91 

)4ireUaR B  Oraage   R.    881  Pttimpol.... 18 

Kolna^acler  1.     ..    08  Orbe   R.    179  Ma.  .^....^ I8B 

Nola   ..v^«..«...*  198  OrbkeUo    192  Palais.*...^ 2^ 

Ndla   ..^^., 288  Orgka  R.    .••....  182  Maaidet  Mo«ut..  278 

Noon  R.    .>...•...  584  OrgaaU   Motat    .«.  17  Paiamt  !.««......  147 

M»ta  Nora    i^r  OriooB   ^»    78  Pdaaoa  Town....  188 

Nora  wvw. ......  881   Orio 73,  77  IPaianda  it. • M6 

Nora  Radoiito*...  Ms  OhriMmo  R.  ...... '228  PalatdiS  ..•^•.«..  281 

Nor!    ...^*.../...  249  Oriitwio  0 281   PatennoPM    ♦...  321 

Norigradi  ........  2SrMaado  C.   284  PalmM^BWOy..^.  238 

Noja  ............    84  Riodd  Oro,  Jpain    73  Palermo  Porto  ....  2l8 

Nan  C.  Barbary  ..884  RloddOrt»,  W.  C.         Pallmira  C». ..»«*•  3*8 

Nvn  R.  GuiMa    ..824'    AMca  .....(.••«  884  PtfnaO^. «/««««••  1<3 

Nan  R.«aMea    ..886  Orodadal.    ...*..    79  PilmTovm....^..  tU 

Noatt  TrittaoR«*  620  Orontcs  R.   .^..^^  287  Mna»  B^dOiSa...  tSl 

O.  Oiop«a<:.  ......  186  t^lma  Io*...*«.^  iTiS 

dliMM  Laka    .••«.    94  Orotei  «.     •.v.^.  281  Priin €.•<•.»...<.  886 

MMlnr  '44t^i.4.  9n  OrphMio    ....*.«.  ^6  PaioM^Ia  !«.«;...  '225 

#4deaBa  •«•.*> .v. -dto^Orstfa- v.. Vir .'..».  4»9  PaUWr ' Point... •«•  642 

O^MaM  R.  i.,,,^  98  0rtcgal  €.    i<m.  B^O  Mlmaria  I.».»i.*.*m 


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59i  I  N  D  B  X. 

P««e  Page  PMe 

PilmaroU  I. » 196  Pftul,  St.  deLoando  542  Pesto 90s 

PalmcraR^ 513  PausiJippo 197  Peter,  St. 28 

PalmaioraL..,.,.  235  PirlaH^ 258  Peter,St.1 25< 

Palo    130  ParonaPort  .../..  284   Peter,  St.  Port 36S 

PaloC 257  Paauunedes  l,^.^,,  310  PetriPort 331 

PakM 86  PMd.C... ..276  Petriasa  I ai2 

PalosC 141  Paxmade  1 312  P^trofiskaia    388 

Pata.,....,.,^,  .*..    160  PaxaU,. 295  PMroa  R 261 

Paaagia  L... 314  Pedro  R... 515   Philip,  St.  of  Bea- 

Panai.. 365  Pedu8a.U. 210      guela S42 

PanarelU  !.».«.'...  241  Pelagoaa  1 213  Pharos  1 351 

Panaris  L.. 241  Pelagooisi  1 322  PhUatiii 251 

Paniuria 537  Pelcudi  L 273  Phira 31$ 

Paoormo  Pxirto....  252  Pdee.1 26  Phokea  --..• 278 

PanormoPort. ....  273  Pdee    C 515  PhyscaPort  282 

Panormo  0 365  Pelegrina  C '  252  Piana  I, 3|0 

Pantaleo.  L... 234  PeUoQ Moimt. , . . . .  275  Plaaoia.  I*. ...••..  209 

PantelarU  1 242  PelodlLake  258  Piaooaa  L 228 

Pantike.^ 366  Pdori   I 313  PtaveR. .  2W 

Papa.C 262,264  Pdusaam  ...i 354  Pidaaro ^  271 

PiH^agura   ^ 518  iWai  C ..*  .  70  Kedia.R 86 

Paradea  ...•....•.  103  Penfretl 27  Pietro,.Saii! 231 

Parenia...^^.^.,  24D  POniche a4  PietrodelBi«i»l..  340 

Parenza  .4..^ ......  210  Ptniaoola  155  Piles  R. n 

Parga.....,.^..,.  250  Penlee 14  PUlerPoinC 541 

IPoroaL.*.. 316  Penmark  Rodn. .  • .      4  Pineda...... 181 

Parrot  !•.«•/.. .4.  5R  RenonjdeAIbumeio  339  Pmes  I..*.. 143 

PartbetU  J........   327  Penonde.Vclez,...  339  Plnor   C. \» 

Pasquet.Rort......  164  PeraLake 104  Ptonk\iviit>  l« 

Passage,  SpaiD...,    76  Pera.C I63  Piper  1 322 

Passage,  Portagd,.   103  PeraP^Nt 163  Piped. 1 313 

Passaro.... 234  Perekop 378  Piri^u) 248 

POtlunoe.J..^ 327  Percereira  Rooks..   104  Pirano 249 

Patras.,*..^^.  2^,263  Ptogama    278.PiriAc 21 

P»tti 238  Pcrtoquct  1 537  Pinwssa  R. W 

^wi%  Su  C 245  Rerolai  Lake  ......  178  Pis^..... I8i 

PaiiU.Ski^.,f,v...  345:  Pfcrpignaa  .. .  181   Pisan  L... 342 

Pai4#.  flt..R.,.Wm    .   ;i^rtw,.AiitJach  ..  .  29]  Pis?ppla  I....  326»JU 

Cw^^Wca...,  525;Pmv<3,3wtoii.*..     29,)Ws^. J06 

Paul,  ^t,.C.,  West  Pesw.. ........ .^.  2UvPi8tritia  ?, 258 

CowtA«ca,„.  592  Pesc^, 10  Pityu^I, 171 


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Page  Page  Page 

Placa  1 310  1>oirtico  1 264   Prior  C 71 

Placentia 78  Ponza  I .'.•  196  Ptoda»o  Port. 266 

Plana  1.,  Spain....  142  Popo  ..;.....  532,  633  Prochio  G..v. ....   227 

Ranal.,  M^orca..  167  Poppingay  1 537  fttwida  1 204 

mana  1.,  Italy  ....  205  Porcea 81  Prota  1 367, 

Plancoef ....*  18  PcycusC,  339  PhFren9al Port  . . . .  223* 

mancoet 18  Pornicc 21  Poento  H. 73 

Plane!...... 344  Poro  271   PtttttaRealc  ./....     9$ 

Planter  I.... 184  Porosma  I ;   250  Pullet  B 94» 

Platal... 367  PorqueroHes  I.....   185  Punta  de  Sogra  . . . .  2M 

PlatamonaR. 275  Pdrt  en  BasseUi. . . .     15,  Puny «•••».  681 

Plataul  R... ..;...  234  Pbrtecroa  I 185  PuK>l 166 

Platza.... 268  Portendik 506  PyramaaA;.^ 286 

Ploucicat  19  PtorticI ; 262  Py^goi*.*..^* 266 

Plonghgoohsr. 19  Pdrtinache  Port..^.   175                    0. 

Plonghnejohn 19  Porta  O......... ..  224  Quaqva  Coott  ...»  439 

POR...... 213  Porto Fhio.. 190  QaartereR.. 97 

Podor..... 610  PdrtoRc ....249  Quay,- St.. .........     18 

PogUaH. .•  187  Porto  Nao... 537  Qtrerqueragne  Road  185 

Pogon  Plnrt... 272  PortoNora. 534  Qnfto  -.....••.•.. ..  532 

Polsson  I 519  Portudal..........  513  Qnii^^R.. •...•...  520 

Pol,  St.  de-Leon  ;.  19  Portogelette  ......     78  Qidberon  B 3 

Pol,  St.dBM»r....  160  Potaal  Valestrte  R.  260  Qnibenm  li..;....     27 

PolaC...... .'....%  280  Poti 385  Qniemada- 1. ; : . . . .     81 

Pola  .;;;...;;.;..  249  Povillac 10  Qtrfmper. .-:;.;..'. .     29 

Pola.;..;. 213  Pdnlqaahi  . .' 21  Qnhnperle ;;.;... .     29 

Pola,  Sta...;...*.  142  Pdnrri  I;.:.; 801  QiioyaporteR...;..  620 

PolccBa  I 283  ft)urvllle; ;;...;...     14       ^       •    R.  •  • 

PolenzaX.;^....-..  166  Pcnizxa  I;; 254  Rabat i.   499 

PoBcartro'.'. 205  Poxznola; ;;:..:;;.  301   Rabbet  <!;:.<..  ...•.   892 

l^lina.. ;.;;...••;  257  Prampram  ..:•;. ..  531  ftadia- i./.^....;   31^ 

Polinoi'.;:.  .....  312  Prassoneri  I.: 322  ff^  -l  i.\.. :::.,•  20B 

Polycandrof...:.;.  813  TrarlaR.. •;.;....     81  ttigozaiza*. •••.;..  851 

Pom^ue  I.........  184  Pifenilfcdefi«lx....'l59  Ragusa  \.v.,.'....  253 

Pommof....^.'.....  252  Pifecirasl.  .*. 84  RakUa.:;;-.'...^.;.  364 

Pomperttey;i .'..;.. '9^1  iWen  .•..•.'•;..  299  Ramoa  R... ;  635 

Pongo'R::.::..^...  920  PrfaneroR..; 534  HamoavRio'dev....  543 

'  iHmtamf  •:.*.;....'  20  Prfmefd  C;  .^...983  Ikmcc'R.-. v. •.;•...;      7 

f^ntYtMt '...:..  20  Princea*!..;..   867,945  !hq)dla  .v..v.....   190 

ftot^araou   ......  17  Prindnelil. ..'.;...  532  Tb^  v..;v....;.*  269 

PwiteVWra;;..*84,  89  PHnJdpbri. ;;.;...  ^67  m  i...... 606 

VOL.  II.  2  Q 


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594 

]Uitoiie;K>^ 73 

llatUHieaii  L 184 

Baij  Point. 4 

lUnrenna 211 

Btf  Point 26 

lUi  el  Amooth  . . . .  341 

BttdMaber 345 

RnelKandr  C...  285 

Bad,  Rio 536 

Reoco 190 

Beceida   R 73 

Redes 82 

Redondela 

RMkmi  C 256 

Reggio 206 

RdnoqR. 7 

Rcmatiari  1 319 

Rcmoy   St 189 

Reyntranaonr. 210 

Retimo ^  308 

Rerille 16 

Rey,  RIodd 536 

Rlie  I *.«..  29 

Rbeneal 319 

RhiumC. 262 

Rhodes  1 324 

Rbodina  R. 371 

RhoneR 179 

Rhays,  Peninsula  ••  4 

Riantin  1 27 

Riba de Sella  R....  74 

Ribaden 185 

Rabadeo. 81 

Rienne  R. •••  7 

RilleR 7 

RUo.. 81 

Rimini    «  211 

RionlR. :«.«  385 

Bioul 184 

Rioa»St.I 26 

Size  ............  385 


INDEX. 

Page 

RiszutoC 207 

Rocca,  St.  C 227 

Roccabruna   189 

Rodie  Bernard....     21 

Rochefort 22 

Rocbelle 13 

Rodidle,U 22 

Rock  of  Lisbon ....     95 

Rodesto 363 

Rod!   209 

Rogacam 535 

Romalosa  R 73 

RopheoR. !J65 

RoqQe,St.C 543 

RoqnetyLa. 6 

Rosa  C 342 

Rosamo 206 

Roscoff 19 

Roses  0 144 

Roses  Town 160 

Roeetta  1 268 

Rosetta,  Egypt. ...  353 

Rosignano  •• 192 

Rosa 224 

Rosso  O.  andl...«  231 

Rouge  C «   274 

Roux   C 186 

RoxoC. 516 

Rozo»  Riode 84 

Ruad  1 289 

Rufflsco 513 

S. 

Sabatia 190 

Sabato  R.  « 202 

Sabionoella 253 

Sables  d'Olone....    22 

Saccaron 251 

SaaratifC. 141 

Sadao  R.  96 

Saflarano  C.  • 238 

Safiea  •#••«•  #•••••  500 


SagonaG 223 

Sagres 104 

Sahara  Desert^....  438 

SaigneR.  ...' ISO 

SaintesI 26 

SaireR 7 

S^aR 73 

SakariaR. 38, 

Salamine  1 272 

Salces 181 

Salerno 205 

Salioas  I. ,.« 

SalinasC |63 

Salinas 295 

SalinasB.  ••• 334 

Salina  Point 505 

SaUndk 15 

SaliniL 240 

Salirde  Porto  ....  104 

Salizano  C.  334 

Sallee 498 

Salo    156 

Salobrena  I. 152 

Salona 263 

Sak>nica 275 

Sak>ra 260 

Salso  R   « 234 

Salt  Pbrt 245 

Sahun  R .«  S13 

Satradal.  ........  282 

Salroral 84 

Sama  R   .«  520 

SamariR 265 

SambosC 542 

Samondradii  1 295 

Samothraki  L  .«••  323 

Samos  L  •••••••.  337 

Samsonn 304 

Sandette.  •«•••«..  14. 

Sandarii  O «  278 

SftiuMdi  Harbow  544 


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INDEX*  59S 

Page                              Page  Pm 

Sangomarl.  ;7.«*«  314  Scarciei  R 520  Sentolol.  •• 71 

Sangonaral 223  ScardeU  1 322  SeqnalL 97 

SangoreeR.   ......  520  Scardo  1 251   Serdao...; 104 

Sangoin  R 526  Scardo  C 232  Serene  Point 515 

SanitgePort 173  Scardona 251   Serfcni  O 340 

Sanaigol 250  Scarpantol 310  Serftnte  C.   290 

Sanson   80  Scauro 315  Serignan  ....    182>  183 

Santa  Cruz  Port..     83  Schini  Porto 3t0  Serine 275 

Santa  Cmz,  Ragnsa  254  Sciacca  237  Serp^t  1 283 

Santa  Cniz,W.C.  of         Sdcill 237  Serpentaria  f 230 

Africa 502  Sdo  I 329  Serpentol.  Black  Sea  374 

Santona,  Spain  ... .     79  Scopelol 322  Serpho  1 313 

Santonil.  Arch.  ..  322  ScorfR 8  Serpho>  Pank>  I.   ..  313 

Santorin  1 314  Scutari  256  Scrrat  C.  ........    343 

Saone  R 7  Scutari,  Constanti.  .  369  SerrfiC.  ..A     ....  544 

Sapienza  C.  and  I.  267  Scylla 124  ServanSt.^ 18 

Sarahat  R 279  Sebastian  St  Spain  76  Serril 269 

Sarakina  1 322  Sebastian  St.  Guinea  529  Servol  R.  . ••%...•   156 

Sardinia  1 228  Sebenico 251  Sessilanes 172 

SarcelU  341  Seboo  R 498  Sesters  R.    ..  525>  526 

Sargd 341  Secundo  C 538  Sestos 362 

Sarland 290  Seez  R. 7  Sestri  deLevante..    190 

Samel 506  Segni   249  SetteR. 538 

SarosG 276  Segnra    146  SetteraKroa 526 

Sarzean 21  Seibua  R 342  Settia 309 

Sassari 232  Seihoun  R 285  Setuval  100 

SasaoxoC 308  Sein  Rocks 26  Sendre  R. B 

SataliaO 283  Seine  R. 28  SenlaR. 7 

SauzonPort ......     27  Seli«ne  R.    8  Senurtipol 381 

Sa^eU  I 191  Selenti  1 284  Seven  Islands,  France  26 

Sayona 190  Selefkeh 284  Seven  Islands, 

Sayades 258  Selina  Port 321       Ionian 293 

Sazcno  .257  Selinus 237  Seville  75,    86 

gcala(Pathmos)...  327  SellaC 170  SevreR.  '8 

ScalaNova 280  Sellage  C.  \ 538  Sextre  R 525 

ScalarobriC 234  Sdnne  R 7  Seyde 290 

Scalea 206  Selva  de  Mar  ....  160  SeyeR 7 

Scalona 293  Senegal   R.    507  Sfegral 265 

Scamander  R.  ....  277  SenegamUa  438  Sitexes 345 

ScandaroonO 285  Senel^zal. 223  SheepsB 543 

S«ingero  1 322  Sennor  1 196  Shdiff R.  .fffftt*.  Ml 

2o2 


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596  INDEX. 

Page                                Pige  Pi|^ 

Sberborongli  R.  ...  624  Sntke  R.  &28  Sqoisiofis    396 

Siboiim M  Socco 24  Stadibo 2» 

gteilj  L 233  Soldea  ..^ 288  Staffiidia  1 299 

Sidero   C     ...-.•  294  Solea 335  Stancho    1 395 

meraC. 309  SoU  . ...., 284  Stancho  0 282 

gWott 290  Solidor 18  StaodU  1 399 

{D^^jull^ 278  SoUor.. 165  Stanpalia  L 3U 

8ldrii  Q.  346  Momonl 245  Stanquea  le  Varre  .    81 

SI^qmR v"       ^  Solomon  C.  ......   309  Stapodia  1 33B 

8ieiTaLeoiieR.496>«591  8oIta  Olunta  I.  ..  251  Stazida  L 311 

8%etaLake 181  Solymaii  Port  ....  346  Su  9tefaDO  1 19( 

glgUC 223  Somhrcro  R. 536  Stcphano   Part    .  ..  ISI 

SigriPort  331  SombreroC. 543  St,  Stephano  B|K7   of 

Slkinol 313  Sommc  R 8  Marmora     ......  364 

^ffleia  R.  264  Somorostro .  ......     78  Stenosa  1 316 

SilotoStnOt 321  Sorcerers  I.  517  Stigia  0 271 

8ImeoaSt.L 366  SorclloC. 234  SUUa  C 227 

SimaricaxR......*       7  Soron  Mount    ....  293  Stilo>  de  C 296 

SittKrfiR. 361  Sorrento 203  Storp 342 

fSinea  C 95  Sou<^)TUK     386  Sfiingella  1 317 

8inc8  Town  •.^...   104  fipachie 310  Strombolo  1 240 

Steiigaglia 210  Spada.. 307  Strongyle   1 313 

BinopeR. 7  Spadia  1 319  Sturia  R.    191 

SInope  Town   ....  388  Spalatro   251  Snedea   288 

BIpbaato  I.    ..^...   313  Spalmadore  I.,.  Dal-  Succundee 529 

Sitgea 157      matia 252  Snda  G.   3M 

Bizeboli 373  Spalmadore  I.,  ArcbU         S«dica  B 346 

Bkiatta  I. pelago 330  Sneira  R.   527 

BUffi  1 274  Bpartel  C 497  BoeA^  \. B\ 

Bkhro    L   322  Spartiventa  C 206  Saez  Isthmns  and 

Skiro  Paolo, I.  ...»  322  Spencer'sB.  , 644  Canal  .........h  355 

BkroffiB  1 261  Bpezia  0    191   Sagary  R. 524 

SkyUeoC 271  Spjnia  1 270  Snlliotcs     259 

Bla 498  Spina  Longa   . .«..  309  Snoga  1 519 

Slart Coast,  0«fnea439  SpimatzaR.  ......  257  Sor 290 

Sleepers  B.  .. . w  M2  Spolica  1 317  Snrminah    ........  385 

IBmyma -.   278  Squillace 207  Svae  R. 502 

•  .Tbe^Bieim  Lfloae  Gompany  incos^wcaled  In  Wh   w^aMisksd  in 
M0^aBd*tke  aettleMent  taken,  into  tie  hMda  of  goTemmest,  the  Ow- 
^yunj  iMiteg  seven  yoairs  gftren.  them  to  settle  their  afiairs. 


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INDEX.  597 

Pa«e                               Pi«e  Page 

SoveroC. 306  Turtaro  R.    212  Tbaretia  1 312 

Snza 34S  Tana   I 523  Thomas,  St.  L    ..545 

Swkip  C.  aodR.  ..  526  Tasso  1 323  TiMnnia  1 313 

Sybaris  R.   207  Tasflones   Point    ..    80  Three  Pointo  C,  ••  528 

Sylis   R 104  Taute  R    7  Three  Points  C.    ••  542 

fi^liTria  364  Tavignano  R 220  Three   Stones  •...  240 

Symbolo  Port   ....  282  Tavira    102  Tiber  R.  193 

^rmia  G 282  Tarolaro  C 230  Tiboulen  1 184 

8yra  1 318  Tavolaro   I.   ..'....  231  Tider   1 506 

Syracuse 336  Tayoinago  I.......  176  TOa  Nori    L     ....241 

SseDan  I 318  Tchingana    373  Timeo  R 219 

T.                    Tech   R 179  Tina  del  Esto  R. . ..    73 

TiOMSca   1 387  Tcculet 502  Tina  Mayor  R 73 

TiA>asca,  New  I.  ..  142  Tedlis 342  Tiaetto  I,  ........  191 

Tacorary 529  Tefelneh  C 502  Tindel  B 506 

TaAi  527  Temathfa  Mount..  266  Tino  1 191 

Taganrog    ........  388  Temma  531  Tino  I.,  Cyclades..  319 

Tagista   C 334  Tcnedos  1 332  Tinto  R 75 

Tagliamento  R.  . ..  213  Tenels    342  Titan  I 186 

Tagus  R 97  Tenes  C ^...  341  Tolon  Port    270 

TaHawone 192  Tensift  R.  .......501  Torn*  1 26 

Talmont  22  Ter  R 146  Torcolal 253 

Tamar    I. 387  Teray  1 6  Tordera    ....*?....  160 

Ttanar^  Morocco..  502  Termini 238  Toriano  C 71 

Ttaiara  I.,  Guinea    521   Termoli 209  Tomeze    264 

Tamhre  R, 84  Terracina   195  Torres 80 

Tamtumquerry  ....  531  Terra  Nora  G.  ...  231  Tortosa 156 

Tancrowel. 515  Terra  Nova  Town    237  Tortosa  ; 289 

Tangier 386  Terra  Nova   261   Tortngas  R.   543 

Tanit  B 506  Tcssano    Port    ....  223  Tosa    160 

Tvioia  R 520  Teste  de  Bach    ...    23  Toulon    : 184 

Taormina   .». 235  Tet  R.,  France    ..  179  Touloubre  R.   •..•179 

Tar  R.    7  Tet,   W.  C.  Africa   500  Touques  R 15 

Taran  86  Tetuan    .^ 339  TouqueviUe    l4 

Tarapta ,.,..  207  Tetu  Nova 268  Touzeleck,  C 277 

Tarchanskoi   C.    ..  383  1^^^ 527  Tracama 528 

Tariff*  1 72  Thau  Lake    ......  178  Traftlgar  C. ' 72 

T^rmgona 156  Theaki  1.    ........  297  Tragooisi  1 319 

Tarr^n    157  llieodore  1 307  Trani 209 

Tvsius.  R.    364  Theodosia 382  Tranquille  Q,    ....  526 

Thnus    284  Theon  Prosopon  C.  289  Th^wnl 238 


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59B  IKDEX. 

^  Page  n«e 

Trau    .;.;...T.,..  251   Unia    384  Vaye   ;7.7,.7;7r.,     U 

TrehMii 250  Unie  1 250  Vcaiinc  R. 179 

Trebisond 385  St.   Urgent    29  Veccliia  Porto    .    .  22S 

Tr«gartel    18  Ufola  R.    77  Vedra  R.    73 

Tn^uier   R.    7  Ur«a  C.  del    238  Vega    81 

Ttegoier  Tbwn  ...    18  Urumea  R 76  Veglia  L 250 

Tremini    531   Ushant  1 26  Velazor  de  Baix    ..  159 

TremitJI 210,211   Ustica  1 239  Vdez  Gcymera    339 

Tremur   R 7  Uxitco    326  Vcndrea  Port    ....  181 

Trepasses  B 4  Uzelaffl  G 278  Vcndrcl 157 

Treport    13  v.  Venera  Porto    ....191 

Trcs  Forca*    C.    ..  339  Vaas    16  St.  Venerando   1.  ..  311 

Tricbery -  274  Vada  C 345  Venetioo  1 267 

Trieste    248  Vaidoura 373  Venetico   L    339 

Trieux  R    .'. 7  Val  d'Alcxandria  ..  297  Venetico  Port     .  ..  283 

Trincde  Porto  ....  310  Val  Formosa  R.  ..    97  Venice    213 

Trinidad  Port    ....  160  Valcares  Lake  ....  179  Venice  R 7 

Trio    316  Valeria 104  Ventilcgrc    2SS 

Tripoli,  Syria    ....  289  St.  Valery,  Somme     13  Ventoso    C 167 

Tripoli,  Barbary   ••  346  St.  Valery  en  Caux     14  Ventotienne  I.    .  «.  196 

Trivenil  Q 186  Valencia  ....    143,  154  Verd  C 511 

Tronto  R.   209  Valetta    245  Verdan  5,18 

Tropea    206  Vilenco  G 223  Verga  C    529 

Tropes   G 186  Valletot 14  Verte  Rio    145 

Troy  C.   277  VaUona  257  Veswrins  Mount    ..  203 

Troya  104  Vannes   20  VeniUes  I II 

Tudy  27  Var  R.    181  VU  Velas 81 

Tamba   Point    S20  Varano    Lalce    ....  209  Via  Reggio    Ifl 

Tunis 344  Varda  Mount   ....  386V\ana   Itt 

Tuy  86  Vardari    R 275  Vianne  C.   505 

Tyger  1 543  Vardenbeig 529  St.  Vicenia    19S 

Tyre    290  Varel  I,  . 502  Vicenza    205 

U.  Varhino 103  Vido  1 294 

St.  Ubes  Hook  ....    95  Vame   373  Vidonle  R.     180 

St.  Ubes  Town    ..  100  Vasili  Potamo   ....  268  Vie  R.  8 

Ufebassi  G 281   Vatican Vigo 86 

Ufcrsoui  R. 365  Vathi    269  Vilaine   R.     8 

Ulla  R.  73  Vathi,   Amorgo    ..  317  VUla  de   Conde    .•  W 

Ulpia 276  Vathi 298  ViUa  Franca 188 

Umago    249  Vathi,  Samos    ..  .  328  Villa  Maoa    160 

UmiaR.... 73  VaticOno  C 206  Villa  Nova    ,. 151 


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INDEX.  599 

Page  Page  Page 

VniaNofadeMilfontesKM  Volpe  C 233  St.  Yago  Mount  ••  504 

Villa  NoTa  de Porto  Volpe  C 282  Yattonka  K   .....  524 

Mao     106  Volta  R.    532  Yawry  B 624 

Villa    Real  de  St.  Voltis  C.    544  Ybay  Chal^al  R.  ..    73 

Antonio    105  Volrarnua  R.  ...  •  195   Yero  Port    331 

VUla  Reale  de  Nttles  155  Vomano  R 209  Yers  R.     7 

Villa  Seca   156  Vona  384  Yoff  B 511 

Villa  Veloi    .......    81  Vonizza 261   Yon    R :...      8 

Villa  Vidosa  •.^..    80  Voatizza    ,.  264  Yport  '. 14 

Village  Bay   543  Vouga  R.    96  St.  Yasti  R.    ....    73 

ViUano   C. 71  Vouissa  R 257  Y?i9a  I 175 

Villera  Boccage  ...     15  Vourla  1 279  Z. 

Vinaros    155  Vnieano  1 240  Zaflkrina 340 

St.  Vincente   .....    79  Vulcanello  1 240  Zagora    275 

St«  Vinoente  C.    ..    96  W.  Zannoni  1 19€ 

Vintain    515  Walwish  B 544  Zante  1 298 

Vintimiglia    189  Warang   1 518  Zara 251 

Viic  R.    7  Wary    535  Zaraos 77 

Viacardo  Fort  and  C.  297  Whidah    533  Zdtonn  0 274 

.VUtre  R.    179  White  1 521   ZeUd  Zaine   343 

Vistritza  R.  275  William's   1 520  Zerbi  I 345 

Vito  a  St.    234  Windward  Coast  of  Zia  1 318 

Vito,    St.      249      Goinea    439  Ziaret  C.  286 

Vittefleor  R.     ....      7  X.  Zill6    281 

Vitolo 268  Xacro  C.    310  Zin  R.    ....« 7 

Vivero  1 204  Xantbos  R. 283  Zinqninoor 516 

Vivero  B 81  Xavea   •  153  Zombino  1 344 

Vojussa 257  Xncar  R. 146  Zonra  C 345 

Voladia,   El    500  Y.  Ziimaya 77 

Volo  G •••  274  St.  Yago  de  Ca$em  104  Zuri  I.   ••«• 251 


END  OF  VOL.  n. 


Cos  mdBiqrli^  MBten^  ^  ,^ 
amt  QweaMesib  Uacola't-IUi-Mdi. 


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E&EAtA  TO  VOL.  tl. 

10,  •»  /rottkttoti,  conmiAicatlon,  fttuiconunniiicitioQt* 

K  1<W   cotton,  ffiMrf  cottons. 

10,  u,  /ro«Mi»w,  of  BtftcbtMiOMing,  f»n<<f  thenietthMtf4Mrinfc 

«4»  8»    flih  U,  riotf  4l*k  tte. 

Tf,  3,    ttie  town  nnd  riter,  nad  the  town  pn  Un  rivtr. 

tS»  9,    Oroytie,  read  Groyne. 

9^  S,  -M  merit  tafl  interest,  natf  is  bf  merit  and  interest. 
—  uKlroOk  ofwhicli,  iwdof  whom. 

9S.  •>  y/wnMtMi.  srfHKMIift,  fia<s«il.fiJMi«m. 

90,  t,   Jarris,  read  Jeivi^. 

114,  9,   their  nets,  read  the  nets. 

117,  If,  from  hottim,  ttself,  read  herself. 

l«t^  14,    tide,  vwdsMe*. 

.1M»..  ■  7*  iitfODisr,  rmd  itrongest. 

HI,  it  /f ^"^Atito"*  P»»rt.  twu*  for^ 

144,  »,    ■                  INcucn,  nod  Miqot^. 

144,  If,   uicot,  rvod  ascent. 

140,  S,    Onhaia,'read  Gandia. 

IH*  9f  i^M  Mem,  town,  rsodiower. 

I»V  J?,  .QBinatntaition,  fwatCQtMMukioklm. 

IM,  6^  /iwi^aittm,o|itheroait  n94  intfe««^« 

1S5,  7,                I    ■    In  an  open,  reodon  an  open. 

1  m/  4,    lorm  banks,  read  forms  banks. 

iw,  •  »,  frm^otiim,  which  thrtJk  in  a  gitat  swell,  protongiilg  Wwirt  shore.  The 

..    ...  f«^Mhichlh^oi»W»agrea»sw«ll.    Protonghig  ha  ««s»  shore,  the 
lOt.  jppwlt,  /N-«Miiscirs|brpQ^  read  mMiMt^r*, <l*r  a«t 

170b  17,   peBtaMai»»imdptains«lar. 

170^  '   JO,    •■•4.**?  f^«^  •^«d  and  at  its  fitot. 

170,"  '  5,  Jnmbottom,  probably,  reorf properly. 

If  I,  «•    »©itis  reai  PMtvs. 

IPS,  It,   were  kept,  rmi  was  kept. 

«!«,  10,  /Vvns  (otiofli,  and  note,  Fahn^doo,  read  Fiomidno. 

9I4»  nltimo,  fhrt,  read  test. 

3A7,  Note,  navigator,  rvod  navigaton* 

414,  9,  from  koUom,  aflbrd,  road  aCbrds* 

507.  IS,   exhalations,  rsaA^shnhitfon.    '  ^    ^'* 

^  fi,   commences,  raod  commence. 


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F. 


^  by  Google-  f 


Digitized  t