00
MARYLEBONE AND ST. PANCRAS.
ST. MARYLEBONE CHURCH.
\ r
MARYLEBONE
AND
ST. PANCRAS.-
THEIR HISTORY, CELEBRITIES, BUILDINGS, AND
INSTITUTIONS.
BY
G K O R G K C L I N C H
(Of the Department of Printed Books, British Museum),
Author of " Bloomsbury & St, Giles's," &c.
Mitb •numerous Jlluatratlpna.
LONDON :
TRUSLOVE & SHIRLEY, 143, OXFORD STREET, W.
1890.
i'>'7C£
PRINTED BY
TRUSLOVE AND BRAY, KNIGHT'S HILL ROAD,
WEST NORWOOD, S.E.
PREFACE.
THE wide area occupied by the districts of Marylebone
and St. Pancras contains rich and extensive materials
for a book of local history. Indeed it would be
impossible to put a detailed and exhaustive history of these
most interesting places in a volume of the size which is now
before the reader. Such a work would require, not one, but
many such volumes.
To tell the truth, the author has not attempted anything
of the nature of an exhaustive history. He has endeavoured
to make a selection from the large mass of material at his
disposal, using such parts of it as seemed likely to be
generally and permanently acceptable to his readers ; and,
while no important branch of the subject has been omitted
intentionally, many branches have been treated with brevity
in consequence of the obvious limitations of space in a volume
of this scope and size, and some, upon which one would
desire to linger awhile, have, for the same reason, been
condensed and modified.
It may be explained here that only the southern portion
of St. Pancras has been included in this book, the great
historical interest which centres in and immediately around the
old church, demanding too much space to allow of any account
of the more northern portions.
The accounts of the Royal Toxophilite Society and the
Foundling Hospital are, to some extent, based upon accounts
which have recently appeared in " Bloomsbury and St. Giles's,"
by the present writer.
It is a frequent complaint that life is not long enough
to allow of as much reading as one would like, or, rather,
vi. PREFACE.
that so much is crowded into one's life as to leave time only for
limited literary recreation. I is for this reason that the present
writer hesitates to occupy as much of his readers' time and
attention as the subject might seem to demand ; and, in
attempting to meet this popular wish for a summarized account,
he humbly begs the indulgence of those who may have
expected a more elaborate and comprehensive book upon two
most important and influential metropolitan districts.
In attempting to shape his book to this end, the author
has received the greatest and most valuable help (especially
in the pictorial part) from his friend, Mr. A. Bernard Sykes,
several of whose sketches, specially executed for the purpose
from old water colour drawings in the Grace Collection, British
Museum, are used in the illustration of the volume.
The author cannot allow the present opportunity to pass
without expressing his sincere thanks to those kind friends who
have afforded him information and useful hints ; and, without
7 '
singling out for mention any particular name, he feels that it
would be unpardonable were he not to record his deep thanks
and hearty appreciation of the many kindnesses he has received
in this way.
It would be equally ungracious were he to omit a brief
reference to the authorities he has made use of in the
compilation of this work. Stow, Lysons, Cunningham, Thomas
Smith (Topographical and Historical Account of Marylebone), and
a valuable collection of drawings, cuttings, and documents
relating to the parish of St. Pancras, gathered together by
Mr. R. Percival, and now preserved in the British Museum
Library — these, and many other sources, have provided material
which is indispensable for such a book as that with which the
author has essayed to amuse or instruct his readers.
CONTENTS.
MARYLEBONE.
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
EARLY HISTORY: — Ancient name of Marylebone. — Domesday Account. — The Manor.
Marylebone Park.— Fox-hunting and hare-hunting. — Marylebone Manor-house. — Oxford
House, and the Harleian Manuscripts. — The Tybourne. — The Hole-bourne. — The
Westbourne. — The source and ancient course of the Tybourne River. — Conduits. —
Annual inspection of the Conduits. — The Lord Mayor's Banqueting House. — Origin of
the name Tybourne. — Thorney Island 3
CHAPTER II.
ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY : - St. Marylebone Old Church. — The site of St. John's Church.
Thefts of Church Goods. — Rebuilding of the Church. — Dedication to St. Mary, the
Virgin. — Hogarth's picture of the interior of the Church. — " The Rake's Progress." —
Vault of the Forset Family. — Demolition of the Church in 1740. — Rebuilding of the
Church in 1741. — Inadequate accommodation. — Suggestions for a new Church. —
Epitaphs, &c., in Marylebone Old Church. — Sir Edmund Douce. — James Gibbs,
architect. — Baretti. — Storace.— John Allen, apothecary. — Caroline Watson, engraver. —
Celebrated names in the Burial Register. —St. Marylebone New Church. — Architectural
features. — St. Mary's Church. — All Souls' Church.— Holy Trinity Church. — Christ
Church.— St. Peter's Church, Vere Street. — St Paul's Church, Great Portland Street.—
St. John's Wood Chapel.— Dissenting Chapels. — French Chapel 15
CHAPTER III.
MARYLEBONE GARDENS, TAVERNS, &c : — Marylebone Gardens. — The French Gardens. —
Illuminations, fireworks, and music, at Marylebone Gardens. — "The Forge of Vulcan."
— Dr. William Kenrick's lectures.— The Marylebone Spa.— James Figg and "The
Boarded House." — Bowling Greens. — "The Rose of Normandy." — "The Queen's Head
and Artichoke." — "The Yorkshire Stingo." — "The Old Farthing Pie House." — "The
Jew's Harp " 31
viii. CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
I'AGE
MODERN HISTORY :- Regent's Park.— Old Marylebone Park.— Willan's Farm.— Other Farms.
— Construction of "the Regent's Park."— Proposed Triumphal Arch. — St. Dunstan's
Villa. — Regent's Canal. — St. John's Wood. — Lisson Green. — Lisson Fields. — The New
Road.— Cavendish Square.— Portman Square.— Manchester Square.— Dorset Square.—
Blandford Square.— Bryanston and Montague Squares ..."-. 50
CHAPTER V.
TYBURN TREE AND PRIMROSE HILL: — The name Tyburn. — "Deadly Never Green." —
Fuller's derivation.— The journey to Tyburn.— St. Giles's Bowl. — Tom Clinch. —
Cromwell, Ireton, and Bradshaw. — Celebrated Executions : Holy Maid of Kent, Robert
Southwell, Mrs. Turner, John Felton, Hacker, Axtell, Okey, Barkstead, Corbet,
Thomas Sadler, Sir Thomas Armstrong, John Smith, Jack Sheppard, Lord Ferrers,
John Wesket, Dr. Hensey, John Rann, Dr. Dodd, Elizabeth Gaunt, John Austen. —
Hangmen : Derrick, Gregory Brandon, " Esquire Dun," John Ketch. — Primrose Hill
and Barrow Hill. — Green Berry Hill. — Murder of Sir Edmond Berry Godfrey. — Duels.
— Capt. Macnamara and Col. Montgomery. — Barrow Hill.— Origin of name . . 67
CHAPTER VI.
SOCIETIES AND INSTITUTIONS: — The Marylebone Volunteers. — The Royal York St.
Marylebone Volunteers. — The Royal Toxophilite Society, Regent's Park. — Sir Ashton
Lever.— The Archers' Hall.— The Marylebone Cricket Club.— Thomas Lord. — M.
Garnerin's balloon ascent — The Zoological Society. — The Royal Botanic Society's
Gardens, Regent's Park. — The Middlesex Hospital 79
CHAPTER VII.
MARYLEBONE CELEBRITIES, &c. : — Joanna Southcott. — Mrs. Siddons. — Anecdote of Handel.
— Thomas Holcroft. — Horatia "Nelson." — Marylebone Celebrities: — Mary Lamb,
Edward Gibbon, Henry Fuseli, " Berners Street Hoax." — Faraday, Wilkie, Flaxman,
James Barry, Dr. Johnson, George Romney, John Constable, Thomas Hood, Landseer,
Thomas Moore, Barry Cornwall, Lyell, Leigh Hunt, Dickens, Macready, Nollekens,
Anna Jameson, Samuel Lover, Benjamin West, Thomas Stothard, J. M. W. Turner,
Thomas Campbell, Frederick Marryat, Sydney Smith, J. G. Lockhart, Sir Walter Scott,
Henry Hallam, Admiral Lord Hood, Elizabeth Barrett Browning, William Pitt,
Lady Hester Stanhope. — Miscellanea. — Cato Street Conspiracy. — Verley's Charity. —
Marylebone Rates, &c 93
CONTENTS. ix.
57. PA NCR AS.
CHAPTER VIII.
EARLY HISTORY: — The Brill; Dr. Stukeley's theory of its having been a Roman camp —
Defensive works in 1643. — Pastoral character of the district. — Value of land. — The
name St. Pancras. — Manors of Cantelows (Kentish Town), Totenhall, Pancras, and
Ruggemere. — King John's Palace. — The Adam and Eve. — "The Paddington Drag." —
The Pinder of Wakefield. —Battle Bridge and King's Cross 115
CHAPTER IX.
ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY-: — The old Church of St. Pancras. — Quaint description in 1593. —
Antiquity of St. Pancras Church. — French Refugees. — Benefactions to the church.
— Renovation in 1848. — Altar Stone. — Epitaphs. — Epigram in St. Pancras Churchyard.
— Anecdote of the Poet Chatterton. — The New Church of St. Pancras. — St. James's
Church, Hampstead Road. — Whitefield's Tabernacle. — "Resurrection-Men." — Monu-
ments.— Demolition of the Tabernacle, 1890. — Presbyterian Church, Regent Square.
— Catholic Apostolic Church, Gordon Square 129
CHAPTER X.
SPRINGS AND WELLS OF ST. PANCRAS: — Lamb's Conduit. — William Lamb. — Public
rejoicings. — The Lamb Public House. — The River Holebourne. — Black Mary's Hole.
— Bagnigge Wells. — The Pinder of Wakefield. — Nell Gwynne. — Properties of the
waters. — Bagnigge Wells Tea-gardens. — "The Bagnigge Organfist." — Pancras Wells —
The Adam and Eve, Pancras. — St. Chad's Well. — Portrait of St. Chad. — Tottenham
Court Fair. — Smock Race ... 144
CHAPTER XL
POPULAR EXHIBITIONS AND ST. KATHARINE'S HOSPITAL: — The Colosseum. — Panoramic
View of London. — The Swiss Cottage. — The Glyptotheca. — Classic Ruins. — Stalactite
Cavern.— Cyclorama of Lisbon.— The Diorama. — The Cosmorama.— The Royal Hospital
of St. Katharine: foundation, benefactions, statutes, &c. — Raymond Lully.— The
Hospital Church.— Removal to Regent's Park . . 164
CHAPTER XII.
INSTITUTIONS, THEATRES, &c.: — University College. — St. Pancras Volunteers. — The Royal
Panarmonion Gardens. — Thorrington's Suspension Railway. — The Tottenham Theatre.—
The Cabinet Theatre 179
X.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XIII.
PAGE
CHARITIES, HOSPITALS, &c. : — Charities: Heron's Charity; Miller's Gift; Stanhope's Gift;
Charles's Gift ; Cleeve's Gift ; Coventry's Gift ; Platt's Gift ; Church Lands ; Donor
unknown. — Ancient Bequests. — Charity School. — The Foundling Hospital. — Thomas
Coram. — Hatton Garden Premises. — William Hogarth's Pictures. — Raphael's Cartoon.
— G. F. Handel.— "The Messiah. "-Benjamin West, R.A.— The Small Pox Hospital.
— The Royal Free Hospital. — North London, or University College Hospital . . . 186
CHAPTER XIV.
CELEBRITIES AND MISCELLANEA : — St. Pancras Celebrities : Frank Buckland, John Leech,
Barry Cornwall, Charles Dickens, Charles Darwin, Thackeray, Shelley, Charles Kean,
Samuel Warren, Dr. Dodd, George Smith. — Anecdote of Toplady.— Miscellanea; —
Capper's Farm, Pugilism, Items from Old Newspapers 207
Index
215
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS.
ST. MARYLEBONE CHURCH ....... Frontispiece.
PAGE
PLAN OF MARYLEBONE ESTATE, WHEN PURCHASED BY THE DUKE
OF NEWCASTLE, 1708 ....... facing 4
PLAN OF THE ESTATE OF LORD HARLEY AND LADY HENRIETTA
CAVENDISH HOLLES HARLEY, 1719 . . . . facing 6
MARYLEBONE MANOR HOUSE, 1791 ,, 8
THE SCHOOL HOUSE AT MARYLEBONE ,, 10
MAP OF MARYLEBONE AND ITS VICINITY, FROM MORDEN & LEA'S
MAP OF LONDON, 1732 ...... facing 12
INTERIOR OF THE OLD CHURCH OF MARYLEBONE (FROM HOGARTH'S
" RAKE'S PROGRESS ") . . . . . . . facing 16
OLD MARY-LE-BONE CHURCH, BEFORE 1740 ..... 17
VIEW OF. St. MARYLEBONE CHURCH, 1750 .... facing 18
CHURCHES, &c., IN MARYLEBONE AND ST. PANCRAS . ,, 28
PLAN OF MARYLEBONE GARDENS, 1756 .....,, 32
THE GRAND WALK, MARYLEBONE GARDENS, 1755 . ,, 34
THE QUEEN'S HEAD AND ARTICHOKE, 1819 ....,, 40
THE OLD ROSE OF NORMANDY 43
THE ROSE OF NORMANDY, 1840 44
ROSE OF NORMANDY, BUILT 1850 44
THE QUEEN'S HEAD AND ARTICHOKE, 1796 45
YORKSHIRE STINGO, 1770 46
THE OLD FARTHING PIE HOUSE, 1724 47
JEW'S HARP INN, REGENT'S PARK, 1784 48
PLAN OF THE REGENT'S PARK facing 50
VIEW IN REGENT'S PARK ...... . ,, 52
VIEW IN REGENT'S PARK ,, 54
MAP OF THE PARISH OF ST. MARY-LE-BONE, 1833 . ,, 64
THE IDLE TRENTICE EXECUTED AT TYBURN ....,, 72
PASTIMES OF PRIMROSE HILL ,, 76
I/
Xll.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS.
THE ENTRANCE OF GREAT PORTLAND STREET, l8o8 ... 78
VIEW IN THE REGENT'S PARK : SUBSCRIPTION ARCHERY ROOMS facing 84
BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, REGENT'S PARK . ,, 88
ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS ,, 88
PORTRAIT OF JOANNA SOUTHCOTT 94
JOANNA SOUTHCOTT'S SEAL, 1806 95
MRS. SlDDONS IN THE CHARACTER OF THE TRAGIC MUSE (FROM AN
ENGRAVING AFTER SlR JOSHUA REYNOLDS) . . facing 98
DEVONSHIRE PLACE AND WIMPOLE STREET, 1799 . . . ,, 106
PORTRAIT OF ARTHUR THISTLEWOOD ....... 107
THE STABLE IN CATO STREET, 1820 108
CESAR'S CAMP AT ST. PANCRAS
THE BRILL, NEAR THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL
PART OF OLD TOTTENHAM COURT facing
KING JOHN'S PALACE, NEAR TOTTENHAM COURT . . . ,,
PART OF THE ADAM AND EVE, 1811
CORNER OF GRAY'S INN LANE AND BATTLE BRIDGE . facing 125
ELEVATION OF KING'S CROSS, 1830 ,, 126
S.W. VIEW OF ST. PANCRAS CHURCH, 1750 130
A SOUTH VIEW OF THE CHURCH OF ST. PANCRAS . . facing 132
NEW CHURCH OF ST. PANCRAS ,, 137 ^
TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD TURNPIKE, ABOUT 1800 (FROM AN
ENGRAVING AFTER ROWLANDSON) .... facing 138]
WHITEFIELD'S NEW CHAPEL, 1764 ,, 140
THE EAST SIDE OF FITZROY SQUARE, 1807 143
OLD BAGNIGGE WELLS TEA GARDENS 152;
SAINT PANCRAS WELLS, FROM AN OLD DRAWING IN BLACK AND
WHITE facing 156]
ST. CHAD'S WELL, GRAY'S INN LANE, 1850 159]
SMOCK RACE AT TOTTENHAM COURT FAIR (1738) . . facing 162'
THE COLOSSEUM, REGENT'S PARK ,, 166
ST. KATHARINE'S HOSPITAL ,, 176,
UNIVERSITY OF LONDON SCHOOL, 1833 ,, 180'
THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL, 1750 ,, 194
THE INOCULATING HOSPITAL AT PANCRAS ,,
MARYLEBONE.
CHAPTER I.
MARYLEBONE: EARLY HISTORY.
Ancient name of Marylebone. — Domesday account. — The Manor. — Marylebone Park. — Fox-hunting
and hare-hunting. — Marylebone Manor-house. — Oxford House and the Harleian Manuscripts. —
The Tybourne. — The Hole-bourne. — The Westbourne. — The source and ancient course of
the Tybourne River. — Conduits. — Annual inspection of the Conduits — The Lord Mayor's
Banqueting House. — Origin of the name Tybourne. — Thorney Island.
N ANCIENT times the name of Marylebone
was Tyburn, a name derived from a stream
so called which flowed through it. The
manor of Tyburn, containing five hides of
land, is described in the Domesday Book
as parcel of the ancient demesnes of the
abbess and convent of Barking, who held
it under the Crown. The land, says the
survey, is three carucates. Two hides are
in demesne, on which is one plough ; the villans employ
two ploughs. There are two villans, holding half a hide,
one villan who holds half a virgate, two bordars* who
have 10 acres, and three cottars. There is pasture for
the cattle of the village, woods for 50 hogs, and 40^.
arising from the herbage. In the whole valued at 525. ;
in King Edward's time at loos.
Robert de Vere, who held this manor under the Abbey
of Barking, gave it in marriage with his daughter Joan,
to William de Insula, Earl Warren and of Surrey, whose
son John dying without issue, it descended to Richard
Earl of Arundel, son of his sister Alice.
After the death of Richard the succeeding earl, who was beheaded
m J394> his estates became the joint property of his daughters and
* Bordarij, in the Domesday Survey, meant persons supposed to be inferior to the villani, as
>emg limited to a small number of acres. Bordarii were also servants employed about the house
in fetching wood, drawing water, grinding corn, and the like domestic duties.
4 MARYLEBONE.
co-heirs. William Marquis of Berkeley, who had an interest in this
inheritance, as descended from Joan Fitzalan, through the Mowbrays,
is said to have given the manor of Marylebone to Sir Reginald Bray,
prime minister to King Henry VII. ; but probably it was only
his share in it ; for it appears that Thomas Hobson, about the
year 1503, purchased three parts of this manor of Lord Bergavenny,
the Earl of Derby, and the Earl of Surrey. It is most likely that he
purchased the remaining part of Sir Reginald Bray. In the year
1544, Thomas Hobson, son (it is supposed) of the last-mentioned Thomas,
exchanged this manor with the King for some church lands. Queen
Elizabeth, in 1583, granted a lease of the manor of Tyburn to Edward
Forset for 21 years, at the yearly rent of £16 us. Sd.; and in 1595,
to Robert Conquest and others (trustees, it is probable) on the same
terms.
In the year 1611, King James granted the manor, with all its
appurtenances, excepting the park, for the sum of £829 35. jd., to Edward
Forset, Esq., in whose family it continued several years, and then passed
into that of Austen, by the marriage of Arabella Forset with Thomas
Austen, Esq. In the year 1710, it was purchased of John Austen, Esq.,
afterwards Sir John Austen, Bart., by John Holies, Duke of Newcastle.
A plan of the Marylebone Estate, showing the fields, with their names
and sizes, and the projected streets to be built over them, is here
reproduced, from a valuable manuscript plan in the Grace Collection
of topographical views, maps, and plans in the British Museum. It i<
dated 1708, which is probably the time when the preliminary negociationj
for the sale were being carried on.
The Duke's only daughter and heir married Edward Harley, Earl
of Oxford and Mortimer, and thus the manor came into possession of
the Harley family.
The manor came into the possession of the Portland family by th(
marriage of Lady Margaret Cavendish Harley with William, 2nd Duke ol
Portland. About the year 1813 an exchange was effected for some lands ;
in Sherwood Forest valued at £"40,000, and thus the Crown became
again possessed of the manor of Marylebone.
The manor house of Marvlebone, which was taken down in the vear
•
1791, during the time it was vested in the Crown, is said to have bee
FOX AND HARE HUNTING, 5
used as one of the royal palaces. It will be found more particularly
described below.
In early times a large tract of ground in Marylebone parish appears to
have been used for hunting purposes. An early (probably the earliest)
notice of the park, which was anciently known as Marybone Park, refers
to its being used for that purpose. " The 3d of February, 1600-1, the
Ambassadours from the Emperour of Russia, and other the Muscovites,
rode through the Cittie of London, to Marybone Park, and there hunted
at their pleasure, and shortly after returned homeward." - The Pro-
gresses and Public Processions of Queen Elizabeth. By John Nichols, F.S.A.,
Vol. III. p. 519.
It is extremely probable that some provision was made for hunting
in and around this neighbourhood at an earlier date than that just
mentioned. Stow gives an account of hare-hunting and fox-hunting
in this district upon the occasion of the visitation of the conduits at
Tyburn by the Lord Mayor and Aldermen of London in the year 1562.
"And after dinner," he says, "they went to hunting the fox. There
was a great cry for a mile, and at length the hounds killed him at
the end of St. Giles's."
When King James I., in 1611, granted the manor of Marylebone
to Edward Forset, Esq., he reserved the park, called Marybone Park,
in his own hands. It continued in the possession of the Crown until
the year 1646, when King Charles, by letters patent, dated at Oxford
(May 6), granted it to Sir George Strode and John Wandesford, Esq.,
as security for a debt of £2318 us. gd. due to them for supplying
arms and .ammunition during the troubles. After the King's death,
when the Crown lands in general were sold, this park, without any
regard to the claim of the grantees above mentioned, was sold to John
Spencer of London, Gentleman, on behalf of Col. Thomas Harrison's
regiment of dragoons, on whom Marybone Park was settled for their
pay. Sir John Ipsley was at this time ranger, by authority of the
Protector. The purchase money was £13,215 6s. 8^., including £130
for the deer (124 in number, of several sorts) and £1774 &s- f°r the
timber, exclusively of 2976 trees marked for the navy.
On the restoration of Charles the Second, Sir George Strode and
Mr. Wandesford were re-instated in their possession of the park, which
6 MARYLEBONE.
they held till their debt was discharged, except the great lodge and
sixty acres of land, which had been granted for a term of years to
Sir William Clarke, Secretary to the Lord General, the Duke of
Albemarle. A compensation was made also to John Carey, Esq., for
the loss of the rangership which he had formerly held. The site of
the park (for it was disparked before the Restoration, and never after-
wards stocked) was leased in 1668 to Henry Earl of Arlington ; in
1696 to Charles Bertie and others, in trust for the Duke of Leeds ;
in 1724 to Samuel Grey, Esq. Mr. Grey's interest in the lease was
purchased by Thomas Gibson, John Jacob, and Robert Jacomb, Esqrs.,
who renewed it in 1730, 1735, and 1742. In 1754, a lease was granted
to Lucy Jacomb, widow, and Peter Hinde, Esq., In 1765, William
Jacombe, Esq.,. had a fresh lease for an undivided share, being 15 parts
in 24. The term of this share was prolonged in 1772, and again in
1780, for eight years, to commence from January 24th, 1803. In the
year 1789, Mr. Jacomb sold his interest in the estate to the Duke of
Portland. In 1765 and 1772 Jacob Hinde, Esq., had new leases of
the remaining undivided share, being 9 parts in 24. These leases
expired in 1803. The Duke of Portland's lease expired in January 1811.
About the year 1813, the manor came again into the possession
of the Crown, an exchange being effected for land of the value of
£40,000, situated in Sherwood Forest.
The various leases which had been granted by the Crown falling
in during the regency of George IV., Marylebone Park began to be
laid out by Mr. James Morgan in 1812, from the plans of Mr. John
Nash, and in honour of the Prince Regent, was called the Regent's
Park.
MARYLEBONE MANOR HOUSE.
This mansion, which was attached to the royal park of Marylebone,
was originally built in the reign of Henry VIII., and was occasionally
used as one of the royal palaces during the reigns of Mary and Elizabeth.
The earliest representation of the house is supposed to be a drawing
made by Joslin, dated 1700, which was formerly in the possession of
the Duke of Buckingham. It comprehends the field-gate and palace,
its surrounding walls and adjacent buildings in Marylebone to the
MARYLEBONE MANOR HOUSE. 7
south - west, including a large mansion, which in all probability had
been Oxford House, the grand receptacle of the Harleian Library. An
engraving of the view was published 2Oth September, 1800, by J. T.
Smith, of Great Portland Street.
It stood on the south side of what is now Marylebone Road,
the exact site being that which is now occupied by Devonshire
Mews. The following lines from J. T. Smith's " Book for a Rainy
Day," may assist us to realize the exact form of the house : — " This
house consisted of an immense body and two wings, a projecting
porch in the front, and an enormously deep dormer roof, supported
by numerous cantalevers, in the centre of which there was, within a
very bold pediment, a shield surmounted by foliage with labels below
it." The back or garden front consisted of a flat face with a bay
window at each end, glazed in quarries, and the wall of the back
front terminated in five gables. The first flight of the grand staircase
consisted of sixteen steps, and the handrails were supported with richly
carved perforated foliage, the date of which is ascribed by Mr. J. T.
Smith to the period of Inigo Jones. The decorations of the staircase
were executed in tessellated work. The mansion was wholly of brick,
and surmounted by a large turret containing the clock and bell.
In the year 1703 a large school was established here by Mr. De la
Place. That gentleman's daughter married the Rev. John Fountayne,
Rector of North Tidmouth in Wiltshire, and the latter succeeded Mr.
De la Place in the school. The school is said to have attained a
considerable reputation among the nobility and gentry, whose sons
there received an educational training previously to their removal to
the universities.
There were at one time above a hundred pupils in Mr. Fountayne's
establishment, and on Sunday morning as they walked to St. Maryle-
bone Church, two and two, some in pea - green, others in sky - blue,
and several in the brightest scarlet, and many with gold - laced hats,
and flowing locks, they are described by an eye-witness as a sight
worth seeing.
The school appears to have been continued until the year 1791,
when the house was taken down and some livery stables were built
on its site. Over the western entrance to these stables was placed a
8 MARYLEBONE.
clock, which had originally occupied a. prominent position in the old
mansion, but which was removed some time before the year 1833.
The old mansion was demolished under the superintendence of a Mr.
John Brown, a builder who resided in the parish upwards of fifty
years, and who died at the advanced age of eighty.
In the hall of this old manor-house there was many years ago a
parrot, so aged that its few remaining feathers were for years confined
to its wrinkled skin by a flannel jacket, which in very cold weather
received an additional broadcloth covering of the brightest scarlet, so
that Poll, like the Lord Mayor, had her scarlet days. Poll, who had
been long accustomed to hear her mistress's general invitation to
strangers who called to enquire after the boarders, relieved her of that
ceremony by uttering, as soon they entered, " Do pray walk into the
parlour and take a glass of wine," but this she finally did with so
little discrimination, that when a servant came with a letter or a card
for her mistress, he was greeted by the bird with equal liberality and
politeness.
OXFORD HOUSE AND THE HARLEIAN MSS.
It has been erroneously supposed by some that the ancient manor
house of Marylebone was indentical with Oxford House. Jesse, in his
work, entitled "London: its celebrated characters and remarkable places,"
so . speaks of it. He says, " Oxford House, the ancient manor house
of Marylebone, and the residence at a later period of the Harleys,
Earls of Oxford, stood as late as the year 1791, on the site of Devon-
shire Mews, New Road." It is improbable that the Earls of Oxford
ever resided at Marylebone Manor House ; but their noble library of
books and manuscripts was deposited in a house built for that purpose
in High Street, about 120 yards south of the Manor House. A drawing
of the Manor house by Joslin about the year 1700, shows the house
itself, its surrounding walls and adjacent buildings in Marylebone to
the south-west, including a large mansion which was considered, by
Mr. John Thomas Smith (author of "A Book for a Rainy Day") to be
probably Oxford House, the grand receptacle of the Harleian Library.
After the removal of that library to the British Museum, Oxforc
House was nearly rebuilt, with a modern front, by Mr. John Browr
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of Clipstone Street, and occupied as a boarding school for young
ladies.
The celebrated Harleian Collection of Manuscripts, which now forms
one of the many valuable collections in the Library of the British
Museum, was collected in the latter part of the i7th century by Robert
Harley, of Brampton Bryan, in the County of Hereford, Esq. ; who on
the nth February 1700, was chosen Speaker of the House of Commons;
on the 24th May, 1711, was created Earl of Oxford and Mortimer;
and five days afterwards promoted to the important station of Lord
High Treasurer of Great Britain. The Harley family appears to have
been remarkable for an appreciative taste for literature. The Earl's
grandfather, Sir Robert Harley, Knight of the Bath, had at his seat
at Brampton Bryan Castle, a library of manuscripts and printed books,
collected from one descent to another, and valued at £1000. This
together with the castle and church of Brampton, £c., was, during the
troublous times of the civil war, destroyed by the parliamentary army.
After his retirement from public business, the Earl of Oxford spent
the remainder of his days in unwearied application for the gaining
accessions to his library, not sparing any expense for that purpose.
He kept many persons employed in purchasing manuscripts for him
abroad, giving them such written instructions for their conduct in that
respect, as sufficiently manifest the exact knowledge he had acquired
as well of every curious manuscript as of the person, circumstances,
and residence of its possessor. By these means the manuscript library
was, in the year 1721, increased to near six thousand books ; fourteen
thousand original charters ; and five hundred rolls.
At his death, which occurred on the 2ist May, 1724, his son and
successor, Edward, the second Earl, followed his noble example, and
devoted a great part of his fortune to the completion of what had been
so auspiciously commenced. Upon the death of the second Earl, in
June, 1741, the library became the property of his daughter and heiress,
Margaret Cavendish, Duchess of Portland, and on the institution of the
British Museum, in 1753, it was purchased of the Duke and Duchess,
by the country, for the sum of £10,000. The collection contains 7639
volumes, exclusive of 14,236 original rolls, charters, deeds, and other legal
instruments.
10
MARYLEBONE.
The " Catalogue of the Harleian Manuscripts in the British Museum,"
a monument of industry and learning, was originally commenced in 1708,
by Mr. Humphrey Wanley, the librarian to Robert and Edward, the first
and second Earls of Oxford. He was employed on it until his death,
in July, 1726, by which time he had reached No. 2408. It was resumed
in 1733, by Mr. Casley, Keeper of the Cottonian Library, who continued
it to No. 5709. Soon after the death of the Earl of Oxford, in June,
1741, the catalogue was committed to the care of Mr. Hocker, the Deputy
Keeper of the Records in the Tower, who, in less than two years,
completed it as far No. 7355. In this state the catalogue remained
until the 22nd of July, 1800, when, at the express desire of the Record
Commission, the Trustees engaged Rev. Rob. Nares, under librarian
of the MS. Department, to revise and correct the latter part of the
catalogue, beginning at No. 3100. This task, and the revision of the
previous part of the catalogue, between Nos. 2408 and 3100, was per-
formed by him, with the assistance of Rev. Stebbing Shaw and Mr.
Douce ; and the first three volumes were printed and published in 1808.
The fourth volume, which consists of Indexes, was compiled by Rev.
Thomas Hartwell Home, and was published in 1812.
THE TYBOURNE.
The well-known names of Holborn, Marylebone, Tyburn, and West-
bourne, owe their origin to, and preserve the memory of three streams
or brooks, arising in the high ground about Hampstead and Highgate, and
flowing in a south-ward direction to the Thames. Traces still remain
of the streams, but in the crowded streets of London, except in the
local names, little remains to be seen of them, although it is pretty
certain that they have played an important part in the physical geography
of the districts through which they ran.
The " Hole-bourne," from whence we get the ancient name Oldburn,
and the modern name Holborn, arose in and around the ponds at
Hampstead and Highgate, and after a meandering course through Kentish
Town, Camden Town (where the two main branches united and made
one channel), Somers Town, Battle Bridge, Farringdon Road, and
Farringdon Street, and so into the Thames at the place where Black-
friars Bridge spans the river. It was subsequently called the Fleet River.
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THE TYBOURNE. n
The " Westbourne " had its origin in several small streams in the
neighbourhood of West Hampstead, from whence it flowed through
Kilburn, Bayswater, Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park, and into the
Thames at the Hospital Gardens, Chelsea.
The " Tybourne," or Tyburn, in which we are more particularly
interested, occupied an area lying between those through which the
" Hole-hourne " and the " Westbourne " ran. Like them its source was
in the northern heights of London, and its course was southward. It
had two main sources ; one at Shepherd's Well Conduit, now Fitzjohn
Avenue, Hampstead ; and the other near the site of Belsize Manor
House. The streams flowing from these two sources united in the
neighbourhood of Barrow Hill and Primrose Hill, and the course from
thence was through Regent's Park, the water being conveyed across
Regent's Canal by means of an aqueduct. The Tybourne formerly
supplied the artificial waters of Regent's Park. From thence it proceeded
across the boundary of Regent's Park and across Baker Street and
Marylebone Road, where a depression is to be seen marking the channel.
The ancient church of the parish, dedicated to St. John the Baptist,
was situated near the present courthouse, in the erection of which, in
1727, the site of the churchyard, indicated by remains of interments,
was discovered. In the fourteenth century it fell into a ruinous state
from neglect, its lonely situation rendered it subject to dilapidations, and
its bells and ornaments were frequently stolen. Robert Braybrook, Bishop
of London, therefore granted a license to the parishioners, on petition
dated October, 1400, to build a new church near where a chapel had
been erected. This was dedicated to St. Mary, and remained until May,
1740, when being ruinous it was taken down. This new dedication gave
a new name to the manor and parish, for being built near the stream,
the name of Mary-le-bourne was given, which has become changed into
Marylebone. In earlier times the name seems to have been simply
Marybone, and it was sometimes written Marrow-bone.
From Marylebone Road to Oxford Street the course of the Tybourne
is not marked in any known map, except one of great interest accom-
panying Mr. J. G. Waller's paper on " The Tybourne and the West-
bourne" (Transactions of the London and Middlesex Archceological Society,
Pt. I. of Vol. VI.) To this map, and the valuable paper which it
iz MARYLEBONE.
illustrates, we are much indebted for information and hints. A portion
of the Tybourne is represented in a map by William Faden, 1785, as
taking a sweep westwards, bending round again to the east, and
terminating at the then stables of the Horse Guards, as near as
possible that of Baker Street Bazaar. From hence it may be faintly
traced towards Marylebone Lane (which accommodates itself to the curves
of the stream), when it becomes again visible in the maps of Lea and
Glynne and others.
The Tybourne was tributary to the ancient water-supply of the
metropolis. In the 2ist year of Henry III., liberty was granted to
Gilbert Sandford to convey water from Tyburn by pipes of lead to the
city, and there were subsequent extensions showing the early importance
that the citizens of London attributed to a pure water-supply. Conduits
about nine in' number were here distributed, many of which are marked
in the map of Lea and Glynne. One was nearly opposite South
Street in a field east of Marylebone Lane ; another close to what is
now the police station, and a few years back still in use ; another in
the rear of the Banqueting House, now Stratford Place ; and others
on the south side of Oxford Street.
The Lord Mayor's Banqueting House was used by the city
authorities for entertainments when they came to visit and inspect the
conduits in the vicinity, and this ceremony was a day of some recreation
to the mayor and aldermen, with their wives. It was usually held on
the i8th of September, the citizens journeying upon horseback, and
their ladies in waggons. Upon one of these occasions, in 1562, it is
recorded by Strype that " The Lord Mayor, Aldermen, and many
worshipful persons rode to the conduit-heads to see them according to
old custom ; then they went and hunted a hare before dinner and
killed her; and thence went to dinner at the Banqueting House, at the
head of the conduit, where a great number were handsomely entertained
by their chamberlain. After dinner they went to hunt the fox. There
was a great cry for a mile, and at length the hounds killed him at
the end of St. Giles', with great hollowing and blowing of horns at
his death ; and thence the Lord Mayor, with all his company, rode
through London to his place in Lombard Street."
After the establishment of the New River system the Corporation
THORNEY ISLAND. 13
leased these conduits, which became part of a system of water-supply,
called Marylebone Waterworks, and there was a large reservoir, called
Marylebone Basin, north of Cavendish Square and parallel to Portland
Place. Portland Chapel, afterwards St. Paul's Church, was built upon
the site which the reservoir formerly occupied. The Banqueting House,
was pulled down in 1737. Traces of the former course of the Tybourne
are to be seen in the names Brook Street, Conduit Street, &c., and in
the direction which certain streets took in order to avoid the course of
the river. Good illustrations of this are visible in South Street, part of
Marylebone Lane, and South Molton Lane.
The stream flowed a little to the east of Berkeley Square, and,
crossing Piccadilly, into the Green Park. Buckingham Palace is built
upon a portion of its old course, and at a point a little south of that
building the stream separated into two arms, one falling into the Thames
a little south-west of the Houses of Parliament. The fall of water here
was utilized for the Abbot's mill, hence the name Millbank, by which
the spot is known to this day. The other arm, anciently forming the
boundary of Westminster, fell into the Thames a little west of Vauxhall
Bridge. The tract of ground bounded by these arms of the Tybourne
and by the River Thames was called Thorney Island, the abundance of
water around it in former times having been sufficient to give it a claim
to the designation of an island. Mr. Waller considers the name to be
equal to "the Isle of Thorns," and probably to have been derived from
the whitethorn, which is very common still in our marshes, by the sides
of ditches. Upon the space which represents the area of this ancient
island stand the venerable building of Westminster Abbey, the ancient
royal Palace of Westminster, and the more modern Houses of Parliament.
There is some reason to suppose that the name Tybourne, or
Tyburn, was derived from the circumstance of the brook being double in
its sources and in the latter part of its course. Another good explana-
tion of the origin of the name is that it took the first part of the
name, Ty, from the delta-like area of ground which the two arms
bounded, and which, as we have already said, was known in olden
days as Thorney Island. In the old English language " tye," "tigh,"
or "teage" indicated an enclosure of land, and as such the name
would be specially applicable to a stream which enclosed an island
I4 MARYLEBONE.
between its branching arms, as this enclosed Thorney Island. The
stream is referred to as " Teoburna " in a charter of King Edgar, dated
951, and for many years it gave the name of Tyburn to the manor
through which it ran, and which was afterwards called Marylebone in
allusion to its situation upon this very stream. In old records this
stream was referred to under the name of Aye-brook, or Eye-brook, a
name which might easily have become corrupted to Tyburn.
~^^-s ^~~\ ^,/-^ ^Jx — ^m\s^~^.,^ ^"^ f J>- ~\.
CHAPTER II.
MARYLEBONE : ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
St. Marylebone Old Church.— The site of St. John's Church. — Thefts of Church Goods. —
Rebuilding of the Church. — Dedication to St. Mary, the Virgin. —Hogarth's picture of the
interior of the Church. — "The Rake's Progress." — Vault of the Forset Family. — Demoli-
tion of the Church in 1740. — Rebuilding of the Church in 1741. — Inadequate accommo-
dation.— Suggestions for a new Church. — Epitaphs, &c., in Marylebone Old Church.— Sir
Edmund Douce. — James Gibbs, architect. — Baretti. — Storace. — John Allen, apothecary. —
Caroline Watson, engraver. — Celebrated names in the Burial Register. — St. Marylebone
New Church. — Architectural features. — St. Mary's Church. — All Souls' Church.— Holy
Trinity Church.— Christ Church.— St. Peter's Church, Vere Street. — St. Paul's Church,
Great Portland Street. — St. John's Wood Chapel. — Dissenting Chapels. — French Chapel.
ST. MARYLEBONE OLD CHURCH.
ROBABLY the earliest church in Marylebone,
and certainly the earliest of which we
possess any record, was one dedicated to
St. John. In the year 1400, Bishop
Braybroke, the Bishop of London at that
time, granted a license to the inhabitants
upon their petition (dated October 23,
1400), to remove that old church, called
"the old church of Tybourn," Tyburn
^ being the name by which the place was known in early
times. The site of the old church of St. John has been
identified by topographers with the site of the court-
house, at the corner of Stratford Place, where great
numbers of old bones were dug up some years since.
The spot seems to have been a lonely one, as the
church was subject to the depredations of robbers, who
frequently stole the images, bells and ornaments. The
license also provided for the building a new church of
stone or flints, near the place where a chapel had
been then lately erected, which chapel might in the
meantime be used. The Bishop of London claimed the
if> MARYLEBONE.
privilege of laying the first stone. The old churchyard was to be
preserved, but the parishioners were allowed to enclose another adjoining
the new church.
This church, dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, became ruinous
and dilapidated in the first half of the i8th century, as may be seen
in the plate representing the marriage in Hogarth's " Rake's Progress"
— a view which is regarded as the best representation of the interior
of the old church.
Dr. Trusler's " Hogarth Moralized," 1813, contains the following
description of Hogarth's picture :—
" The rake is here exhibited embracing the happy opportunity of
recruiting his wasted fortune by a marriage with a deformed and super-
annuated female, ordinary even to a proverb, and possessed but of one
eye. As this wedding was designed to be a private one, they are
supposed to have retired for that purpose to the church of St. Mary-le-
bone (which at that time was denominated a small village, in th(
outskirts of London) ; but as secret as he thought to keep it, it die
not fail to reach the ears of an unfortunate young woman whom he
had formerly seduced, and who is here represented entering with her chik
and mother, in order to forbid the solemnization. They are, howeve
opposed by the pew-opener, lest, through an interruption of the ceremony
she should lose her customary fee, and a battle consequently ensues-
a manifest token of the small regard paid to these sacred places. Bj
the decayed appearance of the walls of this building, the torn belief,
and cracked commandments, our author would humorously and effectually
intimate the great indifference shewn to the decency of churches in
country parishes.
" The only thing further to be noticed, is that of the poor's box,
whose perforation is humourously covered with a web, where a spider
is supposed to have been a long time settled, not finding so good a
resting place before ; and it is probable she might have continued there
much longer had not the overseer, in private, searched the box, with
a view of abstracting its contents. Hence are we given to understand,
that dissapation so far prevails as to drive humanity from the heart;
and that so selfish are we grown, as to have no feeling for the dis-
tresses of our fellow-creatures; a matter which, while it disgraces the
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THE OLD CHURCH. 17
Christian, even degrades the man." Adverting to this incident, as also
to the cracked commandments, and the creed destroyed by the damps of
the church, Mr. Ireland observes: "These three high-wrought strokes of
satirical humour, were perhaps never equalled by an exertion of the
pencil; excelled they cannot be."
" 'W-iwiifrtii. V.aKS ir=ni p1**""* ""f ==->V?'
- '
JM irfreu* "' /i" -a* H '/* ~ . . e=— ^sy -v
«P)«ffiJ^^Qk^i«P:. / /
"1=3*^'' p^ww-L=_lH
OLD
The inscription, denoting the church to have been " beautified " when
Thomas Sice and Thomas Horn were churchwardens, was not fabricated
for the purpose of ridicule (though it might well have served that
purpose, when contrasted with the ruinous appearance of the church),
but proves to have been genuine.
The following amusing poetical description of the scene is taken
from " The Rake's Progress ; or the Humours of Drury Lane " :—
" Only themselves and Chambermaid,
In Hackney Coach to Church convey 'd.
Near Oxford Road, O ! Omen dire !
Where Criminals daily expire.
The advent'rous Hero leads her on
To the fam'd Church of Marybone;
The Clerk who neither said nor sung,
The Parson with Lip under hung,
Of the true ancient Bull - dog Breed,
Cou'd hardly either spell or read.
1 8 MARYLEBONE.
The Altar all adorn'd with Bays,
The ragged Boy who the Hassock lays,
To raise her Foot equal to his,
And to receive the Ring in Bliss.
Some Hero's Trophies dismal sad,
In Tatters waving o'er their Head :
The Sword, the Glove, and Coat of Mail,
Impendent fast'ned by a Nail ;
His Knightly Qualities proclaim :
And if they cou'd would speak his Fame
For it is a custom due to P s,
And every man who Honour bears,
To have these Things hang in the Church
Which when alive he durst not touch :
Below, how much he gave is told,
In shining Letters all of Gold ;
At which each thoughtless Booby stares,
And heeds it much more than his Pray'rs.
Th' Apostle's Creed, tho' painted plain,
Is quite rubbed out with keeping clean :
And the Commands, tho' plain to view,
From Top to Bottom are crackt thro' ;
A Spider finding out a Place
Where he could hope to be at Ease,
On the Poor's Box his Web he weav'd,
And three Months undisturb'd had liv'd ;
And still had liv'd, but th' Overseer,
In private, took out all was there."
Hogarth's plate was published in 1735, and the ill-spelt verses,
pointing out the vault of the Forset family, were accurately copied
from the original, as follows :—
THESE : PEWES : VNSCRVD : AND : TAN : IN : SVNDER
IN : STONE : THERS : GRAVEN : WHAT : IS : VNDER
TO : WIT : A : VALT : FOR : BVRIAL : THERE : IS
WHICH : EDWARD : FORSET : MADE : FOR : HIM : AND : HIS
This inscription, the letters of which were in relief wood-work, w;
preserved with great care, and in the church which was erected in
1742 they were placed in the front of a pew directly opposite the
altar. Thomas Smith, writing in 1833, says : " The first two lines of
this Inscription are the originals, the last two were restored in 1816,
at the expense of the Rev. Mr. Chapman, the Minister. The Vault
is now occupied by the Portland Family."
The ruinous condition of the church became so serious that the
structure had to be pulled down. This work was commenced in May,
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1740, and in less than two years another church was built upon the
same site. The new building was opened for service in April, 1742.
A writer, speaking of it a few years later, describes it as having been
built in as plain a manner as possible, with two series of small arched
windows on each side, the only efforts at ornamentation consisting of
a vase at each corner, and a turret, wherein hung the bell, at the
west end. It was constructed of brick, was an oblong square in plan,
and had a gallery on the north, south, and west sides. The altar
occupied the east end of the church, and several of the monumental
slabs which had decorated the former church, and which are portrayed
in Hogarth's engraving, were preserved and transferred to the walls of
the new church.
The entrance doors to this church were formerly at the east and
west ends, but upon its being converted into the Parish Chapel in
1818, by Act of Parliament, some judicious alterations were made : the
, entrance at the east end was blocked up, that at the wrest only
; remaining. The pulpit and reading-desk were separated, and removed
near the east wall, and the pews were re-arranged. The organ was
placed in the west gallery.
The following inscriptions still remain on the exterior wall of the
east end of the chapel : —
" REBUILT IN YE YEAR 1741.
WALTER LEE {churchwardens."
JOHN DESCHAMPS >
" Converted into a Parish Chapel,
By Act of Parliament, LI. George III.
on the iv. Feb. MDCCCXVII.
The Day of Consecration of the New Church."
A writer in the Gentleman's Magazine for July, 1807, gives the following
details of the inconvenience arising from the miserably insufficient
accommodation for public worshippers in Marylebone : —
SIR. . . I was lately called upon to visit a parish church towards
the north-west end of the town. It is a very small edifice, much
smaller than chapels of ease generally are ; I believe I may say it
is the smallest place of worship attached to the Church of England
in the metropolis. Small, however, as it is, it is the only church
20 MARYLEBONE.
belonging to the largest and most opulent parish in this capital, or
in any part of His Majesty's dominions— a parish which on the lowest
computation contains 70.000 souls ; there is no font for baptism, no
room for depositing the dead bodies on tressels, after the usual way ;
no aisle to contain them They are placed in the most indecent
manner on the pews. At the time I visited this scandal to our church
and nation, there were no fewer than five corpses placed in the
manner described ; eight children with their sponsors, &c., to be
christened ; and five women to be churched ; all within these con-
tracted dimensions. A common basin was set upon the communion
table for the baptisms, and the children ranged round the altar ; but
the godfathers and godmothers in pews, in so confused and disorderly
a manner, that it was impossible for the minister to see many of
them, or address and require them to make the responses, which the
Rubrick directs. Not to mention the danger of the dead and the
living being thus confined together, and the peculiarly delicate situation
of women immediately after child-birth ; all reverence for the sacrament
of baptism ; all solemn and awful reflections from hearing one of
the finest services ever composed, and on an occasion the most interest-
ing to the heart that can be imagined, are entirely done away, and
the mind filled with horror and disgust.
"A CONSTANT READER"
When Regent's Park was laid out it was proposed to build a churcl
in order to remedy this serious defect to some extent. The suggested
site was the centre of a circus to be constructed at the end of Portland
Place, and the Vestry having received a communication from the Secretary
to the Treasury, and believing that there was an intention to confer upon
them this site, together with five acres of land to surround their projected
building, applied for and obtained an Act of Parliament for the diversion
of the New Road, as the Marylebone Road at that time was called.
No sooner, however, were their efforts attended with success, than
difficulties were interposed and new portions of land pointed out.
An Act was, however, passed in the Session of 1810-11, entitled
" An Act to enable the Vestrymen of the Parish of St. Mary-le-bone,
in the County of Middlesex, to build a new Parish Church, and two or
more Chapels ; and for other purposes thereto ;" by which all the former
Acts were repealed, and new powers given to the Vestrymen and their
successors (who derive their authority from an Act of the 35th of
George III.) to purchase lands not exceeding ten acres, for the above
purposes ; and in which there was a clause, providing that no sum
shall be given for any one site for the said Church or Chapels exceeding
£6000." About the end of 1812, Mr. White, jun., the District Surveyor
EPITAPHS. 21
of the Parish, presented the Vestry with a design for a double church,
upon a new principle, having for its object the accommodating of a large
number of persons, and at the same time admitting a magnificence of
exterior ; which design was meant as an accompaniment to his father's
plan for the improvement of Marylebone Park.
Shortly after the delivery of the design above mentioned, the Vestry
offered premiums, by public advertisement, to architects, as they had done
in the year 1770, for plans and elevations of a parish church ; but about
a fortnight previous to the time of receiving such plans and elevations
from the artists, they gave public notice that the designs were not to
be proceeded with ; it should appear, on account of the difficulties which
had arisen in obtaining the ground which the Lords of the Treasury had
proposed to grant them. A triangular piece of ground was, however,
granted to the Parish by the Treasury, on the south side of the New
Road, near Nottingham Place, and the Vestry proceeded to erect a
chapel capable of containing a considerable number of persons ; the
foundation was laid on the 5th of July, 1813, and the fabric was
proceeded with nearly to its completion. At that period, however, the
work was stopped, and the Vestry came to a resolution to convert the
intended chapel into a parochial church. This occasioned a consider-
able alteration to be made in the original design, and particularly in
regard to the exterior of the building. The principal front, next to the
New Road, underwent a very important change, a more extended portico
and a steeple were substituted for the former design (which consisted of
an Ionic portico of two columns, surmounted by a group of figures and
a cupola) ; and other alterations were made in order to give the edifice
an appearance more in harmony with the character of a church.
EPITAPHS.
Among the numerous persons commemorated by inscriptions in old
Marylebone Church are the following : —
Sir Edmund Douce, of Broughton, Kt., " cup-bearer to Ann of
Denmark, Queene to Kynge James, and to Henryetta Maria of France,
forty yeares a servant in his place : never maryed. At the writinge
hereof he was aged three score and three years, in Anno Dni. 1644."
22
MARYLEBONE.
James Gibbs, Esq., "whose skill in Architecture appears by his
Printed Works as well as the Buildings directed by him. Among othei
Legacys and Charitys, he left One Hundred Pounds towards enlarging
this church. He died August 5, 1754, aged 71."
Thomas Smith, in his History of Marylebone, appends the following
foot-note to this inscription : — " Posterity is indebted for the preservatior
of this inscription, Sampson Hodgkinson, Esq., an ardent lover of
antiquities, and sidesman of the parish church, who, at his own expense,
had these letters repainted in 1816 ; but no satisfactory account of the
expenditure of the bequest mentioned on the monument can be
discovered in the Vestry Minutes. The above gentleman, who has
resided in the parish from his infancy, possesses a fund of genuine
entertaining biographical anecdote, an excellent collection of minerals,
and a curious and splendid library, which in the most kind and
obliging manner is rendered accessible to those who require local in-
formation."
One of the first works upon which this celebrated architect was
engaged was the church of St. Mary-le- Strand, one of the fifty new
churches. It has been justly observed that the delicate beauty of that
church is suggestive of the influence of Wren. In 1719, Gibbs added
the steeple and the two upper stages to the tower of Wrren's church
of St. Clement Danes in the Strand. His next ecclesiastical work was
" Marybone Chapel," better known as St. Peter's, Vere Street, begun
in 1721, by Harley, Earl of Oxford. His chief works, however, were
the church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, and the building for the Radcliffe
Library at Oxford. He was buried, by his own wish, within the old
church of Marylebone, where, on the north wall below the gallery, is
yet remaining a simple marble tablet to his memory, with the inscrip-
tion above referred to. It has been said of him that " his portraits
and busts indicate thoughtfulness, penetration, and self-control, but
scarcely great power. His architecture shows fine discernment rather
than fine invention. His reverence for classic architecture led him to
an excessive respect for tradition, but his work is lifted far above the
level of mere imitation, and has a distinctive style of its own. He
never fell into the vagaries of some of his contemporaries, and made
no attempt at Gothic. His good taste may be attributed to his Italian
EPITAPHS. 23
training, which also narrowed his art to the mere consideration of fine
composition and proportion. Although, as Walpole says, his designs
want the harmonious simplicity of the greatest masters of classic archi-
tecture, he deserves higher praise than Walpole gave, and is now
regarded as perhaps the most considerable master of English architecture
since Wren."
" Near this place are deposited the remains of SIGNOR
GUISEPPE BARETTI, a native of Piedmont, in Italy, Secretary for
Foreign Correspondence to the Royal Academy of Arts, of
London ; Author of several esteemed Works in his own and the
Languages of France and England."
Baretti was the author of several works, but his name is perhaps
best known in connection with the Italian and Spanish Dictionaries which
he compiled.
" In memory of a life devoted to the Study of Musical
Science, and shorten'd by unremitted application and anxiety in
the attainment of its object, this marble is inscribed with the
name of STEPHEN STORAGE, whose professional talents commanded
publick applause, whose private virtues ensur'd domestic affection.
He died March 16, 1796, aged 34, and is interred under this
Church.
Silent his lyre, or vvak'd to Heav'nly strains,
Clos'd his short scene of chequer'd joys and pains,
Belov'd and grateful as the notes he sung,
His name still trembles on Affection's tongue,
Still in our bosoms holds its wonted part,
And strikes the chords, which vibrate to the heart.
P. H.
This marble is put up by a tender mother and an affectionate
sister."
John Allen, Esq., died on the xyth of March, 1/74. " He was
Apothecary to the Households of King George the First, Second and
Third ; and having employed a long life, and ample Fortune, in Acts of
Benevolence and Charity, Liberal to others, Frugal only to himself, he
was released from his Labours, and called to his Reward in the ninety-
first year of his age. By his Will he gave large Benefactions to his
Relations, Friends, and Servants. To Poor Clergymen's Widows and
Children. To Poor House-Keepers, and the Charity Children of this
Parish, of St. Paul, Covent Garden, and of St. James', Westminster.
24 MARYLEBONE.
To St. George's Hospital, of which he was a Governor from the first
institution ; and to the Company of Apothecaries, of which he was
most respected member. Providence seems to have protected the life
this excellent man, as an example to show how useful a private persoi
may be with a mind so disposed."
" Sacred to the memory of CAROLINE WATSON, Engraver to Her
Majesty, who died gth June, 1814. Aged 44.
If Taste and Feeling, that with goodness dwell,
And teach the modest Artist to excel ;
If Gratitude, whose voice to Heaven ascends,
And seems celestial to surviving Friends ;
If charms so pure a lasting Record claim,
Preserve, Thou faithful Stone! a spotless Name!
Meek CAROLINE ! receive due Praise from Earth
For Graceful Talents join'd to genuine worth !
God gave thee gifts, such as to few may fall,
Thy Heart, to Him who gave, devoted all.
W. HAYLEY.
Erected by John Eardley Wilmot."
" Here lies the Body of HUMPHREY WANLEY, Library Keeper to the
Right Hon. Robert and Edward, Earls of Oxford, &c. Who
died on the 6th day of July, MDCCXXVI. In the 55th year of
his age."
In the crypt or vault underneath the church are deposited the
remains of several members of the Portland family, including William
Henry Cavendish Bentinck, Duke of Portland, who died on the 3Oth
of October, 1809.
At the west end of the church there was a monument in lead,
gilt, with figures in alto-relievo, to the memory of some children of
Thomas Tayler, of Popes, in Hertfordshire, in 1689. When certain
alterations were made in the church, in 1816, this curious monument
was stolen, probably on account of the metal of which it was composed.
Strange to say, no steps appear to have been taken to discover the
delinquent.
Among the persons whose names appear in the burial register of
this church are James Figg, prize-fighter, buried the nth of December,
Z734 5 J°nn Vandrebrank, painter, buried the 3oth of December, 1739 ;
Edmund Hoyle, author of a well-known treatise on whist, &c., buried
the 23rd of August, 1769 ; John Michael Rysbrack, sculptor, buried the
ST. MARYLEBONE NEW CHURCH. 25
nth of January, 1770; Anthony Relhan, author of works upon medical
subjects, buried the nth of October, 1776 ; James Ferguson, astronomer,
&c., buried the 23rd of November, 1776 ; Allen Ramsay, portrait-painter,
buried the i8th of August, 1784; Rev. Charles Wesley, buried the 5th of
April, 1788; William Cramer, musician, buried the nth of October,
1799 ; Francis Wheatley, R.A., buried the 2nd of July, 1801 ; George
Stubbs, painter and anatomist, buried the i8th of July, 1806.
In 1788, Byron, at the age of six weeks, and on the 3rd of May,
1803, Horatia, the daughter of Lord Nelson and Lady Hamilton, were
baptized within this church.
Francis Bacon, in 1606, was married at the old church at Marylebone.
ST. MARYLEBONE NEW CHURCH.
This church was designed by Thomas Hardwick, a pupil of Sir
William Chambers, and the father of Philip Hardwick, R.A., architect
of the New Hall at Lincoln's Inn. The portico faces the north, a
peculiarity in some measure forced upon the architect by the nature of
the ground selected for its site.
The north front of the church, which is extremely rich, is well seen
from York Gate, Regent's Park. It consists of a handsome winged
portico of the Roman Corinthian order, surmounted by a tower. The
portico is composed of eight columns, six in front and two in flank,
raised on a flight of steps, and sustaining an entablature and pediment.
Within the portico are three lintelled entrances, surmounted by cornices
and two arched windows. Above the central doorway is a panel, bearing
the following inscription : —
This Church was erected at the expense of the Parishioners,
And consecrated iv. February, MDCCCXVII.
The REV. ARCHDEACON HESLOP, Minister,
The DUKE OF PORTLAND, ) _,
\ Churchwardens.
SIR JAMES GRAHAM, BABT,)
GEORGE ALLEN,) _
[ Sidesmen.
JOHN RUSSELL, )
Above this is a long panel designed for sculpture. The ceiling of
the portico is panelled, each panel containing an expanded flower. The
26 MARYLEBOXE.
wings have no windows on their northern front, the angles are guardec
by pilasters, and the flanks are enriched with two columns.
The tower is in three stories, and is crowned with a spherical dome
In the interior of the building there are galleries on the sides and north
end. Near the altar is a painting of the Holy Family by West, presented
by the artist to the parish.
The body of the church is 86 feet 6 inches in length, and 60 feet
in breadth. It is calculated to accommodate between three and four
thousand persons, and cost nearly £80,000 for building and furnishing.
The church, which is dedicated to St. Mary-le-bone, was restored
during the years 1883-84.
ST. MARY'S CHURCH.
This church, situated in Wyndham Place, near Bryanston Square,
was built from the designs of Sir Robert Smirke, and was consecrated
on the yth of January, 1824. The plan of the church is somewhat
singular, the principal front facing the south, and having, in its centre,
the portico and tower. The building consists of a nave, or body, with
side aisles, a portion of the angles having been taken to form vestries
and lobbies, whereby the body is made longer than the aisles.
The tower is circular in plan ; the elevation is made into three
stories. The basement has a doorway with a lintelled architrave, and
above it three round-headed windows. A portico, consisting of six Ionic
columns and two antae, sustaining an entablature and attic, the latter
ornamented with arched panels instead of a balustrade, sweeps round that
portion of the tower which projects from the building. Above the parapet
the circular tower is continued, and forms a stylobate to the secom
story, which has eight semi-columns, of the early Corinthian Order,
attached to it, with windows having arched heads in the spaces between
the cornice is finished with a parapet set around with Grecian tiles,
and upon this story is a pedestal, still continuing the same form, having
four circular apertures for the clock dials, and finished with a cornice
sustaining a circular temple pierced with eight arched openings, the piers
between which are ornamented with antae, supporting an entablature,
cornice, and parapet, the latter set round with Grecian tiles, and crowned
with a conical dome, on the vertex of which is a gilt cross. The
CHURCHES. 27
remaining part of this side of the church is formed into two stories by a
string course, and finished by a cornice and parapet continued from the
portico. The lower story contains, on each side of the portico, three
square windows with stone architraves, and the upper story contains the
same number of lofty arched windows with architraves of stone round
the heads, resting, by way of impost, on a string course. Within the
portico there is also an entrance, with a window above it in the wall
of the church.
The west front is^ in like manner made into two stories, and also
vertically into three divisions, the lateral ones containing windows, and
finishing with cornices and parapets as before. The central division has
three doorways, with lintelled heads in its basement, and three arched
windows above. This division is surmounted by a pediment to conceal
the roof.
The north side of the church only differs from the south in having
three more windows in each story, in the space which is occupied by
the tower and portico on the side already described.
The east front is in three divisions, the side ones similar to the
the western ; the central division retires behind the line of the front,
and has a square window divided into three compartments by antae,
and finished with a pediment. The church is built of brick, except
the tower, cornices, and other particular parts before enumerated.
The interior consists of a nave and side aisles. On each side of the
nave are square piers supporting galleries. The altar is elaborately
constructed of various ornamental and costly marbles. The great defect
in the church is an insufficiency of light. The interior of the church
was remodelled in 1874.
ALL SOULS' CHURCH, LANGHAM PLACE.
The first stone of this church was laid on the i8th of November,
1822, and the consecration took place on the 25th of November, 1824.
One of the most remarkable features in connection with the church is
the strange effect produced by an acutely tapering spire set upon a
circular tower of classic style.
The ground on which All Souls' Church stands, formed part of the
28
MARYLEBONE.
site of Lord Foley's mansion, which, with several adjacent houses, was
removed to complete this end of Regent Street.
HOLY TRINITY CHURCH.
Sir John Soane, R.A., designed this church, which was consecrated
in the year 1828. The principal face of the building fronts the south,
instead of the west, as is the general rule. Of the first stage of the
tower it has been said, " It is no vague or unmerited compliment to
the architect to say that a more beautiful piece of ecclesiastical achi-
tecture is not to be seen in the whole range of modern churches."
The chancel, built from designs of G. Somers Clarke, was added,
and the organ removed from the gallery into the chancel, in the year 1878.
CHRIST CHURCH, STAFFORD STREET.
This church was built from the designs of Philip Hardwick, Esq.,
and was consecrated in 1825. Curiously enough, the portico and prin-
cipal front are at the east end. Another curious feature in the church
is that it consists of two separate portions ; the first, which is entirely
of stone, comprises the entrance and tower ; the second portion, which
consists of the body of the church, and is entirely appropriated to the
congregation. This portion is built of brick, with stone dressings.
The portico and pediment are built in the Ionic order.
A chancel was constructed, and the east end of 'the church re-
arranged, in 1867.
ST. PETER'S CHURCH, VERE STREET.
St. Peter's Church, formerly known as Oxford Chapel, was' erected
about 1724, and during the rebuilding of the parish church in 1741,
marriages, baptisms, &c., were performed here. The Duke of Portland
was married at this church in 1734. The building is of brick, strength-
ened with rustic quoins of stone. Upon the pediment at the west end
of the church there is, carved in stone, a coat of arms, which appears
to be those of a descendant of Aubrey De Vere, the last Earl of
Oxford of that family. The arms were removed in the year 1832, when
the chapel was repaired, and when it was named St. Peter's.
Strange as it may seem to our modern notions of ecclesiastical art,
sons Clinto
i ou5 i
r JOHN S CHl'RCH. I'-UJULNOTOJJ
GHOU5Q H.AK OF TJUSHT CHURCH
GROUND PLAH or STJOBKS CHTRCH.
UTO PLAV Or AL1 SOm-S
PLAN or THI DIORAMA.
OLD CKLUCtt.
NAI1OSAL SCOTCH CHTHCBL
orxi> PUSJS or SCOTCH CHTHCH.
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ntocyr <;QT;AI«. aum..
CHURCHES, &c., IN MARYLEBONE AND ST. PANCRAS.
CHAPELS. 29
this chapel, previously to the erection of the new churches, was con-
sidered one of the most beautiful structures in the metropolis.
ST. PAUL'S CHURCH, GREAT PORTLAND STREET.
This church, originally known as Portland Chapel, was erected in
1766, on the site of Marylebone Basin, which was formerly a reservoir
of water for the supply of that part of the metropolis, but had been
disused for many years. By some unaccountable neglect, this chapel
was left unconsecrated from the time of its erection until the end of
the year 1831, when (it having, in common with the Rectory of the
Parish, passed into the hands of the Crown) the ceremony of consecra-
tion was performed, and it was dedicated to St. Paul. The church
was restored in 1883.
ST. JOHN'S WOOD CHAPEL.
Architecturally this church has not many striking features. It was
built after the designs of Thomas Hardwick, and consecrated in the
year 1814. The monumental tablets placed against the walls inside the
church comprise many beautiful specimens of modern sculpture by the
most celebrated masters of the age. Among them are the productions
of Chantrey, Behnes, Wyatt, and various other eminent sculptors.
In the vaults beneath this church are deposited the remains of
a great number of well-known persons, among whom is the wife of
Benjamin West, P.R.A.
In the burial ground attached to this church (now converted into
a public garden) is the grave, among many others, of Joanna South-
cott. It was estimated in 1833 that about forty thousand persons had
been buried in this cemetery, and the list of notable characters included
in that number is much too long to give in this volume.
DISSENTING CHAPELS.
There are several important and old-established Dissenting Chapels
in Marylebone, but we have no space for even a brief account of
them.
In Little Titchfield there was a place of worship, called Providence
Chapel, frequented by a congregation styling themselves " Independents,"
30 MARYLEBONE.
and under the ministry of Mr. Huntingdon. This chapel was burnt down
on the i8th July, 1810, upon which occasion the minister is reported
to have observed, that " Providence having allowed the chapel to be
destroyed, Providence might rebuild it, for he would not " — and in
consequence, the site was occupied by a timber yard.
FRENCH CHAPEL.
About the middle of the lyth century there was a French Chapel
at Marylebone. It was probably only of a small size, conformably with
the sparse population of Marylebone at that time. There seems to have
been some doubt as to the exact spot it actually occupied, which is
supposed to have been somewhere in Marylebone Lane or High Street.
It is recorded that the chapel was founded in 1656, in which year
Bernard Perny .and Michel Eloy Nollet were the officiating ministers.
In the early days of their existence, the Marylebone Gardens were
called the " French Gardens," in consequence, it is said, of their con-
tiguity to the Marylebone French Chapel. The site of the Marylebone
Gardens is well known : it is now occupied by Devonshire- Place and
Street and Beaumont Street, and the adjacent locality, and if the French
Chapel adjoined or stood near those gardens, it must have been some
little distance to the north of Marylebone Lane. (See History of the
Protestant Refugees settled in England. By J. S. Burn. p. 153.)
The site of the chapel is pretty clearly defined in a plan of the
Marylebone Gardens, which is reproduced in connection with the account
of that establishment in the present volume.
" The vast number of French Protestants who fled into England on
the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, led to a large increase in the
number of French churches. This was especially the case in London,
which was the principal seat of the immigration. It may serve to give
the reader an idea of the large admixture of Huguenot blood in the
London population, when we state that about the beginning of last
century, at which time the population of the Metropolis was not one
fourth of what it is now, there were no fewer than thirty-five French
Churches in London and the suburbs. Of these eleven were in Spitalfields,
showing the preponderance of French settlers in that quarter." — Smiles.
CHAPTER III.
MARYLEBONE GARDENS, TAVERNS, &c.
Marylebone Gardens. — The French Gardens.— Illuminations, fireworks, and music, at Marylebone
Gardens. — " The Forge of Vulcan."— Dr. William Kenrick's lectures.— The Marylebone Spa.—
James Figg and "The Boarded House "—Bowling Greens.— " The Rose of Normandy."—
"The Queen's Head and Artichoke."— "The Yorkshire Stingo."— " The Old Farthing Pie
House."—" The Jew's Harp."
MARYLEBONE GARDENS.
HERE is evidence of the existence of public
pleasure gardens at Marylebone at an early
date. Pepys writes in 1668 : — " Then we
abroad to Marrowbone, and there walked
in the garden ; the first time I ever was
there, and a pretty place it is."
The gardens, which occupied the ground
where Beaumont Street, Devonshire Street,
and Devonshire Place now are, seem to
have been known at first (as was mentioned in the last
chapter) as " The French Gardens," on account, as
some say, of their having been cultivated by French
refugees, who had a chapel close by. When the
gardens were first named the Marylebone Gardens,
and definitely set apart for the use of pleasure-seekers,
does not clearly appear. The probability is, however,
that they gradually assumed that character.
An advertisement in the " Daily Courant," of the
29th of May, 1718, reads: — "This is to give notice to
all persons of quality, ladies and gentlemen, that there
having been illuminations in Marybone bowling-greens
on his Majesty's birthday every year since his happy accession to the
throne; the same is (for this time) put off until Monday next, and will
32 MARYLEBONE.
be performed with a consort of musick, in the middle green, by reason
there is a ball in the garden at Kensington with illuminations, and at
Richmond also."
This notice goes to show that the bowling-greens at Marylebone had
for a few years, at least, been used for the celebration of public events.
A distinct advance towards improvement of the condition and
appointments of the place was made in the years 1738-9, when Mr.
Gough, the proprietor, enlarged the gardens, built an orchestra, and issued
silver tickets at twelve shillings each for the season, each ticket admitting
two persons. It is not generally known that, previous to the year 1737,
this "fashionable" place of amusement was entered freely by all ranks of
people ; but the company becoming more select, Mr. Gough determined
to charge one shilling for entrance money for a lady and gentleman, for
which the party paying was to receive an equivalent in viands. Any
single person was admitted upon a payment of sixpence. The gardens
were open from six to ten in the evening at first, but the hour for opening
was afterwards altered to five o'clock. An advertisement in a con-
temporary newspaper humbly requests that the gentlemen will riot smoke
on the walks.
The plan of the Marylebone Gardens here inserted has been reproduced
from a valuable MS. plan in the Grace collection at the British Museum.
The following are the references to the numbers marked upon it.
1. The house called The Rose of Normandy.
2. The field entrance.
3. Old Church (French).
4. Orchestra
5. Burlettas, &c., without front.
6. Fireworks.
In the year 1740, an organ, built by Bridge, was added to the
musical attractions of Marylebone Gardens, and later on illuminations and
artificial fireworks formed a frequent and popular item in the entertain-
ments. On July 27th, 1769, upon the occasion of Mr. Forbes's benefit,
the following list of fireworks was advertised to be exhibited : —
"THE ORDER OF FIRING.
"First Division. — i. Four Sky Rockets. 2. Two illuminated, brilliant, and
changeable wheels. 3. Two Tourballoons. 4. One large Range of Chinese
Trees bearing white Flowers. 5. Two Furious Wheels changing into Wheat-
sheafs. 6. Two Pots d'Airgrets with Chinese Jerbs.
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MARYLEBONE GARDENS. 33
" Second Division.— 7. Four Skyrockets. 8. Two Tourballoons. 9. One
large brilliant Wheel, with blue, yellow, and white lights. 10. Two Pyramids
of Roman Candles, n. Two Line Rockets. 12. Two large Diamond Pieces of
brilliant Fountains, five pointed Stars, and a large Sun at the Top of each.
"Third Division. — 13. Four Sky Rockets. 14. Two Tourballoons. 15. One
regulating Piece of three Mutations, first a large brilliant wheel illuminated.
2nd, A Sun of Brilliants and Royonet Fire. 3rd, Six Branches representing
Wheat Ears. 16. One large Gothic Arch, superbly illuminated with Lances,
and Variety of other Decorations. 17. One large brilliant Sun with a Star of
eight Points in the Centre. 18. Two Pots d'Airgrets with large Chinese Jerbs."
These elaborate fireworks were sent off at the conclusion of a concert
of vocal and instrumental music, and as only half-a-crown was charged
for admission, it cannot be said that the entertainment was extravagantly
expensive.
So many rough characters were attracted towards Marylebone Gardens,
that the journey back to London through the country roads was attended
with considerable risk of robbery and violence, and provision for the
safety of visitors was made, as appears by the following : —
" Mrs. Vincent's night. At Marybone Gardens, on Thursday, July
3rd (1766), will be a Concert of Vocal and Instrumental Music. The
vocal parts by Mr. Lowe, Mr. Raworth, Mr. Taylor, Miss Davis, and Mrs.
Vincent. With several new Songs. And (by particular Desire) after the
Concert will be a Ball. Tickets Two Shillings and Sixpence.
" To render it more agreeable to the Company there will be a
Platform laid down in the great Walk which will be entirely covered in.
"There will be a Horse Patrol for the City Road to and from the
Gardens, to protect those Friends who intend honouring Mrs. Vincent
with their Company.
" Tickets to be had of Mrs. Vincent, at her lodgings, at Mr. More's,
Grocers, next to the Savoy Gate in the Strand, and at the Bar of the
Gardens."
Music was one of the chief attractions of the gardens. Handel's
name is closely associated with them, as are those of Dr. Arne, Webbe,
Richter, Hook, Bartholomew, Abel, Dibdin, and Banister, and other
popular singers and actors of the day.
In 1744 Miss Scott was a singer at Marylebone Gardens ; Mr. Knerler
played the violin, and Mr. Ferrand played an instrument called the
34
MARYLEBONE.
bariton. In 1751 Mr. John Trusler was sole proprietor of the gardens,
and, in 1758, his son produced the first burletta that was performed there,
entitled " La Serva Padrona."
The next year, 1759, Mr. Trusler, who appears to have been possessed
of ingenious business capacities, opened his gardens for breakfasting, and
his daughter, Miss Trusler, made the cakes.
The following year this enterprising lady developed a new branch of
her business. The following notice was publicly given in the news-
papers : — " Mr. Trusler's daughter begs leave to inform the Nobility and
Gentry that she intends to make fruit-tarts during the fruit season ; and
hopes to give equal satisfaction as with the rich cakes, and almond
cheesecakes. The fruit will always be fresh gathered, having great
quantities in the garden ; and none but loaf sugar used, and the finest
Epping butter. Tarts of a twelvepenny size will be made every day from
i to 3 o'clock ; and those who want them of larger sizes, to fill a dish,
are desired to speak for them, and send their dish or the size of it,
and the cake shall be made to fit.
" The almond cheesecakes will be always hot at one o'clock as
usual ; and the rich seed and plum cakes sent to any part of the town,
at 2s. 6d. each. Coffee, tea, and chocolate, at any time of the day ; and
fine Epping butter may also be had."
A good idea of the general arrangement and appearance of the
Marylebone Gardens is presented in the accompanying plate, which is
reproduced from an engraving published in the year 1761. It represents
the gardens probably in their fullest splendour. The central part of the
plate exhibits the longest walk, with regular rows of young trees on
either side, the stems of which received the irons for the lamps at about
the height of seven feet from the ground. On either side this walk
were latticed alcoves ; on the right hand of the walk, according to this
view, stood the bow-fronted orchestra with balustrades, supported by
columns. The roof was extended considerably over the erection, to
keep the musicians and singers free from rain. On the left hand of th
walk was a room, possibly intended for balls and suppers. The figures i
this view are all well drawn and characteristic of the time.
In 1763, the gardens were taken by the famous Mr. T. Lowe, who
engaged Mrs. Vincent, Mrs. Lampe, Junr., Miss Mays, Miss Hyatt
itt,
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MARYLEBONE GARDENS. 35
Miss Catley and Mr. Squibb, as singers. Upon the opening of the gardens
in May, 1763, the following musical address was sung : —
" MR. LOWE.
Now the summer advances, and pleasure removes,
From the smoke of the town to the fields and the groves,
Permit me to hope, that your favours again
May smile, as before, on this once happy plain.
Miss CATLEY.
Tho' here no rotunda expands the %vide dome,
No canal on its borders invites you to roam ;
Yet nature some blessings has scattered around,
And means to improve may hereafter be found.
Miss MILES.
On spots as uncouth, from foundations as mean,
Some structures stupendous exalted have been ;
Hence started Vauxhall, and Ranelagh grew,
From rudeness to grandeur, supported by you.
Miss SMITH.
The barrenest heath may by art be improv'd :
And rivers diverted, and mountains remov'd :
Do you then the sunshine of favour display,
And culture shall soon the glad summons obey.
Miss CATLEY.
Meanwhile, ev'ry effort to please ye we'll try ;
Miss MILES.
Good music, good wine, with each other shall vie.
Miss SMITH.
To gain your esteem 's the full scope of our plan,
MR. LOWE.
And we'll strive to deserve it as well as we can.
CHORUS.
To gain your esteem 's the full scope of our plan,
And we'll strive to deserve it as well as we can."
One of the many popular sights at Marylebone Gardens was Signer
Torre's representation of the Forge of Vulcan. When the ordinary
fireworks were concluded, a curtain, which covered the base of the
representation of Mount Etna, rose and discovered Vulcan leading the
Cyclops to work at their forge ; the fire blazed, and Venus entered with
Cupid at her side, who begged them to make for her son those arrows
which are said to be the causes of love in the human breast ; they
assented and the mountain immediately appeared in eruption, with lava
36 MARYLEBOXE.
rushing down the precipices. This exhibition proved highly interesting
to the public, and was often represented. Another popular attraction was
a course of lectures, delivered in 1774, by Dr. William Kenrick, author
of numerous books and pamphlets. They were given in the Theatre for
Burlettas, which was called the School of Shakespeare, as the lectures
dealt mainly with Shakespeare, and consisted, to a large extent, of
recitations from certain portions of his works. The character of Sir
John Falstaff was received with much applause by the crowded audiences
which were attracted by Dr. Kenrick's declamation. Dr. Kenrick used
to hold his ''School of Shakespeare," as it was called, also in the Apollo
at the Devil Tavern, Temple Bar, and he printed an introduction to his
lectures in the form of a pamphlet. In 1775, Mr. George Saville Gary
gave lectures on mimicry, in which he introduced, " A Dialogue between
Small Cole and Fiddle-stick ; Billy Bustle, Jerry Douglas, and Patent ;
with the characters of Jerry Sneak in Richard the Third, Shylock in
Macbeth, Juno in her Cups, Momus in his Mugs, and the Warwickshire
Lads ; concluding with a dialogue between Billy Buckram and Aristophanes,
in which Nick Nightingal, or the Whistler of the Woods, made his
appearance in the character of a Crow.
In 1774, the public press made serious complaints against ihe
management of the gardens for having demanded five shillings entrance
money to a fete champetre, which consisted of nothing more than a few-
tawdry festoons and extra lamps. There were indications that public
favour was declining; the gardens, after a long period of popularity, were
becoming less and less appreciated, and the roughs, who assembled there,
tore down the decorations, and injured the stage. Moreover, the
population around the district was rapidly increasing, and so much
uneasiness arose in the minds of the inhabitants lest some accident
should be occasioned by the fireworks, that complaints were frequently
made to the magistrates. The result was that Marylebone Gardens were
finally suppressed in 1778, and the site was let to builders.
The following is an extract from a document which was formerly in
the possession of Sampson Hodgkinson, Esq., who allowed an extract
to be made for Thomas Smith's " History of the Parish of St. Marylebone,"
in which work it was published in 1833. It is a deed of assignment
made by Thomas Lowe, conveying his property in Marylebone Gardens
MA R YLEBONE GA RDENS.
37
to certain trustees, for the benefit of his creditors, on the 3rd of
February, in the gth of George the Third, viz., 1769.
By Indenture bec.ring the date of the 3Oth day of August, 1763,
made between Robert Long, of the Parish of St. Mary-le-bone, otherwise
Marybone, Esq., and the said Thomas Lowe, all that Messuage then or
then before called the Rose Tavern, situate and being in the Parish
of St. Marylebone aforesaid, with the tap-house thereunto belonging, and
also a Room or Building known by the name of the French Chapel,
together with a stable or brewhouse adjoining, or near to the same,
and also all that other Messuage, situate in the same parish, then
before in the possession of Daniel Gough, on the East side of
the town of Saint Marylebone, alias Marybone, fronting towards the
West on the Road leading to Marybone Church, and North on a
Gateway or passage leading from the said Road into Marybone
Gardens. And also all that great garden and the several pieces or
parcels of garden ground and walks to the said Messuages or either
of them belonging, which had been lately used therewith by the then
late Tennants of the said Messuages in the carrying on a Musical
Entertainment at Marybone Gardens, and also the orchestra, and all
Rooms and Buildings erected, built and set upon the said pieces and
parcels of ground or any part thereof, and also the organ then
standing in the said orchestra, and also a harpsicord and all the
musical books and music then being on the said premises, and used
in carrying on the said musical entertainment, and all boxes, benches,
tables, lamps, lamp-posts, and all other fixtures, belonging to the said
Messuages or tenements, pieces or parcels of ground which were the
property of the said Robert Long, and all the passage lights, profits or
commodious advantages appointed to the tenants of the said messuages
or said pieces of ground belonging or therewith held and enjoyed,
except reserving to the said Robert Long, all that small piece of
garden ground and a small tenement built thereon, then in the
possession of Mr. Flanders, and another small piece of ground with
a shed or tenement built thereon, late in the possession of Mr. Claxton,
but then unlet, and also another small piece of ground with a tenement
or shed built thereon, then in the possession of Mr. Gray Cutler, and
also another piece of ground with a tenement built thereon, then in
• MARYLEBONE.
the possession of Mr. Rysbrack, statuary, all which excepted premises
had been parted off from the said Great Garden, and had been held
and enjoyed separately from the same. And also, except and always
reserving to the said Robert Long and his tenants free liberty to pass
and repass in through and from the public walks of the said great
gardens at all convenient times to the said excepted premises. To
Hold the same (except as before excepted) unto the said Thomas
Lowe, his Executors and Assigns, from the Feast Day of St. Michael
the Archangel, next ensuing, for and during the full end and term of
14 years from thence, and fully to be compleat and ended, at and
under the yearly rent of £170 of lawful money of Great Britain
payable quarterly, in manner therein mentioned.
And on the 3ist of August, James Dalling, Robert Wright of the
Parish of West Ham, in the County of Essex, Coal Merchant, and
Francis Walsingham, together with the said Thomas Lowe, became
bound to the said Thomas Long in the penal sum of five hundred
pounds conditioned for the payment of the rent, and performances 6f
the contract.
This property was subsequently, in 1768, assigned to George Forbes
and Andrew Mitchie, Trustees, for the benefit of the creditors.
In the debtor and creditor accounts the following items appear: —
EXPENSES.
£ *• *
To Mr. Hook, the Music Master ... 440
Mr. Lowe's weekly allowance ... ... ... ... 220
To Advertisements and Waiters ... ... ... i 6 10
To Mr. Medhurst, for Chickens 580
To the Patrol o 16
To Master Brown ... .. ... ... ... 44
To Miss Da vies ... ... ... ... ... ... 33
To Mr. Taylor ... ... ... ... ... ... 22
To the Gardener... ... ... ... ... ... 09
To Candles ... ... ... ... ... ... 30
To Washing ... ... ... ... ... ... 01810
To One Hundred Lemons ... ... ... .. o 10 o
To Water Cakes.. 060
MARYLEBONE GARDENS. 39
£ s- d-
To Beer ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 440
To Servants' Wages ... .. ... ... ... 180
To the Band of Music ... ... .. .. ... 27 13 8
To laying out the Books and attending the Music 090
To the Doorkeepers ... ... ... ... ... 2 19 6
To attending the Organ... ... .. .. ... 076
To Miss Davies ... ... ... ... ... ... 220
To Mr. Phillips 220
To Mr. Taylor i 8 o
To Mr, Thomas, for the Organ ... ... ... 060
To 12 Doorkeepers and 2 Patrols ... ... ... 430
To the Doorkeepers for 6 Sundays ... ... ... 060
To the Constable for 4 Sundays ... ... ... 040
To Servant's Wages ... ... ... ... ... i 8 6
To one Advertisement .. ... ... ... ... 050
To Writing Music ... ... ... ... ... 113 6
To one Watchman ... ... ... ... ... oio
To the Music Licence .. ... .. ... ... 149
To Mr. Wakefield o 12 o
The expenses of the establishment from November I2th, 1767, to
January 3ist, 1769, were £1534 us. gd.
RECEIPTS. £ s. d.
By received in part of the expenses of Mr. Brown's
Benefit ... ... ... ... ... ... 10 10 o
By ditto Benefit of the Band of Music ... ... 9 4 o
By ditto Mr. Taylor's Benefit 13 2 6
By ditto Miss Davis's Benefit 686
By Dr. Arne, for Wine... ... 2 14 6
By one Ticket i n 6
The receipts at the door do not appear to have exceeded on any
one night £15, but the receipts at the bar frequently exceeded £50,
and on one occasion, the 8th of September, 1768, they amounted to
£65 6s. 4^.
THE MARYLEBONE SPA.
This valuable spring was discovered in Marylebone Gardens in the
winter of 1773-4, in the course of a diligent search, made under the
40 . MARYLEBONE.
direction of the Surveyor of the City of London, after some wells
situated about Marylebone, and under the jurisdiction of the City. Many
ancient subterraneous avenues were found. Upon a careful examination,
the medicinal virtues of the spring were found to be likely to be highly
useful in nervous, scorbutic and other disorders. The waters were
supposed to strengthen the stomach, and promote a good appetite and a
good digestion.
The company were admitted every morning immediately after six
o'clock, and tea, coffee and other refreshments were obtainable at the bar.
JAMES FIGG AND "THE BOARDED HOUSE."
This celebrated prize-fighter, who long bore the palm of victory from
all competitors, and who was extolled by Captain Godfrey in his treatise
of the science of defence, as the greatest master of the art he had ever
seen, was a Marylebone celebrity. He was for many years proprietor of
" The Boarded House," in Marylebone Fields, near Oxford Road, 6r
Oxford Street, as it is now designated. Here, the " Atlas of the Sword,"
as Figg was called, frequently exhibited his own skill, and at other times
made matches between the most celebrated masters or mistresses of the
art, for the noble science of defence was not confined to the male sex.
We find Mrs. Stokes, the famous city championess, challenging the
Hibernian heroines to meet her at Mr. Figg's. Lysons quotes a writer
in Mist's Journal of the date, November 2Oth, 1725, who says: — " We
hear that the gentlemen of Ireland have been long picking out an
Hibernian heroine to match Mrs. Stokes the bold, a famous city cham-
pioness ; there is now one arrived here, who, by her make and stature,
seems mighty enough to eat her up. However, Mrs. Stokes, being true
English blood (and remembering some late reflections that were cast
upon her husband by some of that country volk), is resolved to see her
out vi ct annis. This being like to prove a notable and diverting
engagement, it is not doubted but abundance of gentlemen will crowd to
Mr. Figg's amphitheatre on Wednesday, the 24th instant, on purpose to
see this uncommon performance."
The following are copies of broadsides announcing exhibitions of
skill at Figg's establishment : —
O)
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DC -«•
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I-
JAMES FIGG AND "THE BOARDED HOUSE." 41
^At the Bear-Garden in Mar row -bone-Fields, the Backside of
Soho Square, at the Boarded House, A Tryal of Skill to be performed,
this present Monday, the iyth of May, 1714, by two Masters of the
Noble Science of Defence, beginning at Three of the clock precisely.
" I, John Terrywcsl, Master of the said Science, who am
Obliged not to Challenge any Man : But the Gentlemen present
at the last Battel, desiring me and Mr. John Parkes, of Coventry,
to Exercise the usual weapons ; We, to Oblige them, and for the
Diversion of others, will not fail (God willing) to Exercise the
several Weapons following, viz. : —
BACK-SWORD,
SWORD AND DAGGER,
SWORD AND BUCKLER,
SWORD AND GAUNTLET,
SINGLE FALCHION, AND
CASE OF FALCHIONS.
Vivat Regina."
" At the Boarded House in Marylebone Fields, to-morrow
being Thursday, the 8th day of August (1723), will be performed
an extraordinary Match at Boxing, between Joanna Heyfield, of
Newgate Market, basket-woman, and the City Championess, for
Ten Pounds Note. There has not been such a battle for these
20 years past, and as these two Heroines are as brave and as
bold as the ancient Amazons, the spectators may expect abun-
dance of Diversion and Satisfaction from these Female Com-
batants. They will mount at the usual hour, and the Company
will be diverted with Cudgel-playing till they mount. Note a
scholar of Mr. Figg, that challenged Mr. Stokes last summer,
fights Mr. Stokes's Scholar 6 Bouts at Staff, for Three Guineas ;
the first Blood wins. The weather stopt the Battle last Wednes-
day."
From the former of the two broadsides just quoted, it appears
that the place was known as the " Bear Garden," doubtless on account
of the cruel sport of bear-baiting and tiger-baiting which took place
there. Bear-baiting and tiger-baiting were exhibited at Figg's Amphi-
theatre. A bull-fight was once advertised to be performed by a "grimace"
Spaniard, who had for some time amused and delighted the people of
St. Pancras and Marylebone by making ugly faces, and a great
42
MARYLEBONE.
company was drawn together by the novelty of the proposed entertain-
ment.
A portrait of Figg is introduced by Hogarth in the second plate
of his " Rake's Progress."
Figg died in 1734, and was buried at Marylebone on the nth of
December. After his death the celebrated Broughton occupied an
amphitheatre near the same spot, and was for many years the hero of
bruisers, until at last he was beaten on his own stage by Slack, a
butcher. The victor was supposed to have gained £600 by the result of
the battle ; and the sums won and lost by the bye-standers were to a
great amount, the house being crowded with amateurs, some of whom
were of very high rank. Not long afterwards a stop was put to all
public exhibitions of boxing and prize-fighting by Act of Parliament.
BOWLING GREENS.
In a map of the Marylebone Estate in 1708, there are two
bowling greens shown, one of which was situated near the top of High
Street, and abutting on the grounds of the old manor house. The other
was situated at the back of that house ; the street afterwards called
Bowling Green Lane having formed its southern boundary. In connection
with the first mentioned green there was a noted tavern and gaming-
house called the Rose Tavern, much frequented by persons of the first
rank. It afterwards grew into much disrepute. The Marylebone Bowling
Green is celebrated by the poet Gay, who makes it the scene of Capt.
Macheath's debauches, in " The Beggar's Opera." This is probably the
place alluded to by Lady Mary Wortley Montague in this line : —
"Some Dukes at Marybone bowl time away."
It is also in all probability the tavern which is meant by Pennant, who,
in his account of London, when speaking of the Duke of Buckingham's
minute description of the house, afterwards the Queen's palace, and his
manner of living there, says : — " He has omitted his constant visits to the
noted gaming-house, at Marybone ; the place of assemblage of all the
infamous sharpers of the time ; " to whom his grace always gave a dinner
at the conclusion of the season ; and his parting toast was, " May as
many of us as remain unhanged next spring, meet here again." The
THE ROSE OF NORMANDY.
43
" London Gazette," of January nth, 1691, mentions Long's bowling-
reen at the "Rose" at Marylebone, half a mile distant from London.
A description of the bowling-green attached to the tavern called the
Lose of Normandy in 1659, states that the outside was bounded by a
square brick wall, set with fruit trees, and there were gravel walks over
two hundred paces long and seven paces broad. The circular walk was
nearly five hundred paces in circuit, and six broad ; the centre was
square ; and the bowling-green was one hundred and twelve paces one
way, and eighty-eight paces another. All these walks were double set
with quickset hedges, kept in excellent order, and indented in imitation of
battlements. A writer in 1699 says : — " Marybone is the chief place about
town, but, for all its greatness and pre-eminence, it lies under the shrewd
suspicion of being guilty of sharping and crimping, as well as the rest."
Both of these bowling-greens were incorporated with the celebrated
Marylebone Gardens.
THE ROSE OF NORMANDY.
Little seems to be definitely known as to the origin of this sign, but
the house is supposed to have been established early in the I7th century,
and when Thomas Smith wrote his history
of Marylebone (1833), it was the oldest inn
then existing in the parish. It was in its
early days a detached building connected
with the bowling-green at the back. The
entrance to the house was by a descent of
a flight of steps, the level of the street
having been raised. At several dates the
house had been repaired, but the original
form of the exterior was preserved, and the
staircases and ballusters were coeval with the
erection of the building.
There was, at the back of the house, an
extensive yard on the level with the ground
floor, which was laid out as a skittle
ground. It is extremely probable that this
was the skittle ground made famous by Nancy Dawson's association with
44
MARYLEBONE.
it. The celebrated dancer and actress, of Drury Lane and Covent
Garden fame, is supposed to have
been born near Clare Market. At
an early age she lost her mother,
and was forced to lodge with an old
Irish woman at Broad Street, St.
Giles's. At the age of fourteen she
lived in a cellar in Drury Lane with
a sweep and his wife, and while
quite a young girl Nancy Dawson
is said to have been employed in
setting up skittles at a skittle-alley
184-CT
in connection with a tavern in High
Street, Marylebone, probably the Rose
of Normandy.
Later in life, after many adventures
with a variety of lovers (including
Jack Pudding, a showman, and Mr.
Griffin, his master), she used to dance
at Sadler's Wells, where, in one way
or another, she made a good deal of
money. In 1760, she gained great
applause for the part she took in
dancing at Covent Garden Theatre.
She died at Hampstead, in the year
1767, and was buried behind the
Foundling Hospital.
THE QUEEN'S HEAD AND ARTICHOKE.
In olden times this was a well known house of entertainment,
situated in a lane nearly opposite Portland Road, and about five
OLD INNS.
45
hundred yards from the road that leads from Paddington to Finsbury.
The accompanying illustration taken from an old engraving of the place,
gives a view of the house opposite to the entrance, the door being on
the other side of the bow-window. The barn alongside was well-known
as Edmonson's Barn ; it belonged to Mr. Edmondson, coach-painter to
the Queen, in Warwick Street, Golden Square, where he used to
iy9G
execute the first part of his coach-painting. The lane was not any
public road, only for foot-passengers, as it led into the fields towards
Chalk Farm, Jews' Harp House, Hampstead, &c. On the other side
the paling, was the lane and a skittle-ground belonging to the house.
It was surrounded at the back and one side by an artificial stone
manufactory, and several small houses with gardens attached to them.
46 MARYLEBONE.
THE YORKSHIRE STINGO.
Opposite Lisson Grove and on the south side of Marylebone Road,
there used to be a very celebrated public-house known as the York-
shire Stingo. From this house the first pair of London omnibuses
started on July 4th, 1829, running to the Bank and back. They were
constructed to carry twenty-two passengers all inside. The fare was one
shilling, or sixpence for half the distance, together with the luxury of
a newspaper. Mr. J. Shillibeer was the owner of these carriages, and
the first conductors were two sons of a British naval officer.
As the name indicates, the house was noted for its ale — " York-
shire Stingo " — but it was also as much noted for its tea gardens and
bowling-green. It was much crowded on Sundays when an admission
fee of sixpence was charged at the door. For that fee a ticket was
given, to be exchanged with the waiters for its value in refreshments.
This plan was very frequently adopted in these gardens, to prevent the
intrusion of the lowest class, or of such as might only stroll about them
without spending anything.
THE OLD FARTHING PIE HOUSE.
A good idea of the situation and surroundings of " The Old
Farthing Pie House " may be gathered from a glance at Rocque's
OLD INNS.
47
Map of London (1741-6), wherein it is shown as a house occupying the
north-east corner of a nearly square enclosed garden intersected by
footpaths. The " Farthing Pye House," as it is there called, is shown
as being situated on the west side of "The Green Lane," almost
opposite " Bilson's Farm," and at the point where that road was cut
by a road going east and west, where the " New Road " was afterwards
made. The Green Lane extended from what is now the south end of
Berner's Street towards Primrose Hill, and the boundary line between
Marylebone and St. Pancras seems pretty nearly to indicate its old
course.
The exact site of the Old Farthing Pie House is represented by
the Green Man, near Portland Road Railway Station.
THE JEW'S HARP.
This public house, which was formerly in Regent's Park, was perhaps
chiefly remarkable for its odd sign — " Jew's Harp," or " The Jew's
Trump." It was often called the " Jew Trump," and there is reason
to believe that the name is a corruption of some foreign word. In
the low Dutch a tromp is a rattle for children. Another explanation
which is more ingenious than probable, is that the house was called
48
MARYLEBONE.
11 The Jew's Harp " because the place where that instrument was played
was between the teeth.
The house was situated in old Marylebone Park, about a quarter of
a mile north of Portland Place, but when the grounds were laid out
for the formation of Regent's Park, it was removed further eastward.
It was long known and resorted to, by holiday parties, on account of
its bowery tea-garden, and thickly-foliaged arbours, and acquired consider-
able fame for the excellence of its entertainment and accommodation.
A curious anecdote is told of the Speaker Onslow in connection with
this public house. For the purpose of relaxation from the many cares
of his office, this celebrated man was in the habit of passing his evenings
at " The Jew's Harp," at that time a retired country public house. He
dressed himself in plain attire, and preferred taking his seat in the
chimney corner of the kitchen, where he took part in the vulgar jokes
and ordinary concerns of the landlord, his family and customers. He
OLD INNS. 49
continued this practice for a year or two, and much ingratiated himself
with his host and his family, who, not knowing his name, called him
" the gentleman," but, from his familiar manners, treated him as one of
themselves. It happened, however, that one day the landlord was
walking along Parliament Street, when he met the Speaker in state,
going up with an address to the throne ; and looking narrowly at the
chief personage, he was astonished and confounded at recognising the
features of the gentleman, his constant customer. He hurried home and
communicated the extraordinary intelligence to his wife and family, all
of whom were disconcerted at the liberties which at different times they
had taken with so important a personage. In the evening, Mr. Onslow
came as usual, with his holiday face and manners, and prepared to
take his seat, but found everything in a state of peculiar preparation,
and the manners of the landlord and his wrife changed from indifference
and familiarity to form and obsequiousness. The children were not
allowed to climb upon him and pull his wig, as heretofore, and the
servants were kept at a distance. He, however, took no notice of the
change, but, finding that his name and rank had by some means been
discovered, he paid his reckoning, civilly took his departure, and never
visited the house afterwards.
It has been said that this was the only public house with the
sign of " The Jew's Harp " in London, but that was incorrect, as
there was another in Islington.
CHAPTER IV.
MARYLEBONE: MODERN HISTORY.
Regent's Park.— Old Mary lebone Park. — Willan's Farm. — Other Farms.— Construction of "the
Regent's Park."— Proposed Triumphal Arch. — St. Dunstan's Villa. — Regent's Canal. — St.
John's Wood. — Lisson Green. — Lisson Fields. — The New Road.— Cavendish Square. — Portman
Square. — Manchester Square. — Dorset Square.- Blandford Square. — Bryanston and Montague
Squares.
REGENT'S PARK.
LD Marylebone Park, having been disparked
for some years, and known generally as
Marylebone Farm and Fields, Mr. White,
architect to the Duke of Portland, in the
year 1793, exhibited to Mr. Fordyce, the
Surveyor-General, a " plan for the improve-
ment of Mary-le-bone Park, which attracted
his attention, and which he noticed in his
report to the Lords of the Treasury, who
that the necessary steps should be taken,
and that a reward, not exceeding £1,000, should be
offered to the successful author of a plan for the
improvement of the whole estate. A copy of the
Treasury Minute, dated July 2nd, 1793, was
communicated to Mr. White, with six engraved plans
of the estate, which induced him to devote much
attention to the improvement thereof; and he made
several plans, which are noticed in the First Report
of the Commissioners of Woods and Forests and Land
Revenues.
The following are the names of tenants and fields, and the sizes
of the fields on the estate called Marylebone Park Farm, taken by
MARYLEBONE PARK FARM. 51
order of the Lords of the Treasury, under the direction of John
Fordyce, Esq., by G. Richardson, in 1794.
Farm in the possession of Mr. Thomas Willan, and
his Under Tenants.
1. Farm-house, Barn, Stables, Cowhouses, Yards, A. R. p.
Garden, &c. ... ... ... ... ... 2 o 36
2. Small Tenements, Sheds, Yards, and Gardens,
let to divers Tenants ... ... .. .. 108
3. Ditto... ... ... ... ... ... ... o 2 25
4. The Six Closes ... .. ... ... ... 72 i 37
5. Butcher's Field ... ... ... ... . 27 i 28
6. The Long Mead ... ... ... ... ... 24 3 36
7. Long Forty Acres ... ... ... ... 34 o n
8. Short Forty Acres ... ... ... ... 14 217
9. Harris's Field ... ... ... ... ... 34 i 32
10. Hill Field ... .. ... ... ... ... 18 2 14
11. Gravel Pit Field ... ... ... ... ... 20 2 32
12. Part of Home Seven Acres ... ... ... 6 3 32
13. Remainder of Ditto ... ... ... . . 2 o 25
14. Bell Field ... ... ... .. ... ... 9 2 32
15. Pightle, let to Thomas Hammond ... ... i i 17
16. Copal Varnish Manufactory and Garden, let
to Mr. Alexander Wall ... ... ... o i 3
17. Cottages, Sheds, Yards, and Gardens, let to
divers Tenants ... ... ... ... ... 208
1 8. The Five Acres ... ... ... ... ... 4018
19. Paddock, let to Thomas Hammond ... ... i i 18
20. White House Field ... ... ... ... 906
Totrl 288 o 35
Farm in the possession of Mr. Richard Kendall, and
his Under Tenants.
A. R P.
21. Part of Saltpetre Field 12 3 23
22. Ditto, let to John White, Esq. i i 12
23-rt. Ditto Ditto o 3 16
23. £. Late part of the Five Acres, Ditto ... ... i i 24
24. Garden let to George Stewart, Esq. ... ... o 2 12
MARYLEBONE.
25. House, Garden, and Shed, Ditto
26. Dupper Field
27. Garden let to Sir Richard Hill, Bart.
Farm-house, Cow-houses, Yards, and Cow-lair
Cow-houses, Sheds, &c. ...
Tenements, Yards, Gardens, &c.
White House Field
Bell Field 15
White Hall Field 20
Rugg Moor and Lodge Field, in one ...
Total
28.
29-
30.
3i-
32-
33-
34-
35-
36.
37-
38.
39-
40.
42.
43-
A.
R.
p.
0
I
20
9
I
18
o
I
7
i
2
19
o
I
ii
2
3
24
8
o
32
15
I
35
20
3
36
57
o
12
133
2
21
^^M
time:
r,
A.
R.
P.
16
I
16
22
I
30
34
O
12
34
I
21
10
I
9
• o
I
2
117
3
10
Farm in the occupation of Mr. Richard Mortimer,
and his Under Tenants.
The Nether Paddock
Pound Field
The Thirty Acres
The Twenty-Nine Acres ... ... ... ... 34
Home Field, Farm-house, Cow-house, &c.
Six Cottages and Gardens, with small Sheds,
let to Mr. Richard Holdbrook
Total
ABSTRACT.
A. R. P.
Mr. White's Garden ... ... o 2 26
Small triangular piece on the
south side of the road ... o o 16
Part of the Turnpike road
belonging to the Estate .. ... o i 31
Other part of ditto... ... ... 2
(Both rented by the Trustees of
the Road.)
Farm rented by Mr. Willan
Ditto by Mr. Kendall ...
Ditto by Mr. Mortimer ..
Total
37
288
133
"7
543
o 35
2 21
,3 10
o 17
DC
CO
H
z
LU
O
LU
CC
REGENT'S PARK. 53
After the death of Mr. Fordyce, the Office of Surveyor-General
of the Land Revenue was amalgamated with the Commission for the
management of his Majesty's Woods and Forests ; and Messrs. Leverton
and Chawner, architects and surveyors of buildings of the Land
Revenue ; and Mr. Nash, Architect and Surveyor of the Woods and
Forests ; were required to deliver in plans for the arrangement of the
Marylebone Park Estate. The result of their labours was the delivery
of several plans by Messrs. Leverton and Chawner, and of several
others by Mr. Nash.
Mr. Fordyce, in April, 1809, had laid before the Commissioners of
the Treasury, a memorandum respecting the extension of the town over
Marylebone Park, leading the attention of Architects to the proper
consideration of the sewer, supplies of water, markets, police, churches,
and a public ride or drive. He had, antecedent to this period, in May,
1796, particularly brought into notice the forming a direct and com-
modious communication to Marylebone from Westminster, and recom-
mended its execution.
On the expiration of the lease from the Crown to the Duke of
Portland in January, 1811, the Crown obtained an Act of Parliament,
and appointed a commission to form a park and to let the adjoining
land on building leases. The whole was laid out by Mr. James Morgan
in 1812, from the plans of Mr. John Nash, architect, who designed
all the terraces except Cornwall Terrace, which was designed by
Mr. Decimus Burton.
The Park derives its name from the Prince Regent, afterwards
George IV., who intended building a residence there at the north-east
side of the Park. Part of Regent Street was actually designed as a
communication from the Prince's projected residence to Carlton House,
St. James's Palace, &c. The Crown property comprises, besides the
Park, the upper part of Portland Place, from No. 8 (where there is
now part of the iron railing which formerly separated Portland Place
from Marylebone Fields), the Park Crescent and Square, Albany,
Osnaburgh, and the adjoining cross streets, York and Cumberland
Squares, Regent's Park Basin and Augustus Street, Park Villages east
and west, and the outer road of the Park.
About the year 1820, there seems to have been a proposition set
54
MARYLEBONE.
on foot for the building of a gigantic triumphal arch across the New
Road from Portland Place to Regent's Park. There are in the Grace
Collection, at the British Museum, two beautifully executed sepia
drawings, by John Martin, showing the proposed Arch, surmounted by
a large and richly ornamented column, and steps, for foot passengers,
extending over the whole of the convex external surface of the arch.
Whatever there may be to urge in favour of such a structure from
an artistic point of view, the absence of any public utility is quite
sufficient justification for the relinquishing of such an extravagant scheme.
ST. DUNSTAN'S VILLA.
This house was built by Decimus Burton, Esq., for the Marquis of
Hertford. There is an interesting story told in reference to the house.
When the marquis was a child, and a good child, his nurse, to reward
him, would take him to see " the giants " at St. Dunstan's, and he used
to say, that when he grew up to be a man he would buy those giants.
It happened when old St. Dunstan's was pulled down that the giants
were put up to auction, and the marquis became their purchaser for the
sum of £200.
The giants used to strike the hours on the old clock of St. Dunstan's
Church, in Fleet Street, and after they had been purchased by the
Marquis of Hertford, they were again made to do duty for that purpose.
Cowper, the poet, refers to the figures at St. Dunstan's in the following
lines : —
" When Labour and when Dullness, club in hand,
Like the t%vo figures of St. Dunstan's stand,
Beating alternately, in measured time,
The clock-work tintinabulum of rhyme,
Exact and regular the sounds will be,
But such mere quarter-strokes are not for me."
The buildings and offices are on a larger scale than any other in the
park. Simplicity and chastity of style, characterize the exterior, and the
interior is in the same style of beauty. The entrance hall, in the principal
front, is adorned with a portico of six columns, of that singular Athenian
order which embellishes the vestibule of the Temple of the Winds at
Athens. The roof is Venetian, with broad projecting eaves, supported by
cantalivres and concealed gutters to prevent the dropping of the rain
water from the eaves. On each side of the portico, on the ground floor,
oc
CO
i-
z
LJ
O
LJ
DC
LJ
REGENTS CANAL.— ST. JOHN'S WOOD. 55
are three handsome windows, and a series of dormers range along the
upper story. The offices are abundantly spacious, being spread out, like
the villas of the ancients, upon the ground floor, and are designed in the
same style of architecture as the mansion.
REGENT'S CANAL.
By virtue of an Act of Parliament intituled " An Act for making and
maintaining a navigable Canal in the Parish of Paddington to the River
Thames, in the Parish of Limehouse, with a collateral cut in the Parish
of St. Leonard, Shoreditch, in the County of Middlesex," the Regent's
Canal was constructed. The work was begun in 1812, and the formal
opening took place on the ist of August, 1820, when the circumstance of
its completion was duly celebrated by an aquatic procession of boats and
barges, ornamented with flags and streamers, and filled with ladies and
gentlemen more or less interested in the success of the undertaking. The
canal is eight miles and six furlongs in length, and has a fall of about
eighty-four feet from its commencement to its termination.
It was projected by Mr. John Nash, the architect, and Mr. James
Morgan was the engineer.
ST. JOHN'S WOOD.
The name of this place was derived from its former possessors,
the Priors of the Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem. It is described in
records as " Great St. John's Wood, near Marylebone Park," to
distinguish it from Little St. John's Wood at Highbury, in Islington.
Among these Woods, west of Marylebone Park, in Queen Elizabeth's
reign, Babbington and two of his fellow conspirators succeeded in
concealing themselves from the officers of Lord Burghley.
The St. John's Wood estate, consisting of nearly five hundred
acres of land (about 340 acres of which were in Marylebone Parish),
was granted by Charles II. to Charles Henry Lord Wotton, in discharge
of £1300, part of the sum due to him. The said Lord Wotton on
the 6th of October, 1682, devised his estate to his nephew, Charles
Stanhope, younger son of his brother Phillip, Earl of Chesterfield.
It was subsequently purchased in 1732, of Philip Dormer, Earl of
Chesterfield, by Samuel Eyre, Esq. In this way the estate came into
56 MARYLEBONE.
the possession of the Eyre family, from which the famous hostelry
known as the " Eyre Arms" takes its sign.
The following is an " Account of the Mary-le-bone portion of this
Estate from a Survey made in 1794 : —
A.
R.
P.
i.
Pasture,
houses, yard, barn, gardens, &c.
i
I
13
2.
ii
Little Hay Field
... 7
3
24
3-
Meadow,
, Hanging Field ...
7
3
12
A,
Spring Field
O
i
IQ
T
5-
5 )
»»
Dutch Barn Field
... 8
i
y
H
6.
II
The Twenty Acre Field
... 6
3
3
7-
>»
Great Hill Field
... 16
i
26
8.
Burton-way
18
9
i
9-
) )
Pasture,
house, garden and lawn
i
J
2
38
10.
Meadow,
Little Robin's Field
... 7
3
20
ii.
»
Little Blewhouse Field
ii
3
6
12.
Arable, Seven Acres
7
2
28
I 3.
Pasture,
Middle Field
3
2
7Q
j
I4.
Meadow,
Blewhouse Field
J
••• 5
3
J.7
37
15-
,,
Great Robin's Field ...
10
i
25
1 6.
Horn Castle
c
2
18
17-
J ?
M
Great Garden Field ...
... 30
O
38
18.
5)
Willow Tree Field
... 16
I
21
IQ.
Great Field
25
I
17
:/
2O.
J J
Brick Field
ax
I
* /
2 C
21.
? )
Pasture,
cottage and garden
O
O
JJ
25
22.
Meadow,
The Slipe
o
6
23-
Pasture,
house, barn, yard, gardens
... 6
3
36
24..
Meadow,
Barn Field
14.
o
A
"f
25-
>»
Oak Tree Field
... IL^.
... 16
I
T
18
26.
Pasture,
Piece on St. John's Wood Lane
O
0
19
27.
Meadow,
Four Acre Field
- 5
3
3i
28.
Six Acre Field ...
6
i
16
29.
Pasture,
cottage and garden
o
i
37
3°-
Meadow,
The Twenty Acres
... 25
i
i7
3i-
»
The Nine Acres
... 9
o
i7
32-
ii
The Twenty-two Acre Field...
... 23
o
0
Saint Jol
m's Wood Lane...
i
2
J3
Total 340 i 33
THE MANOR OF US SON GREEN. 57
LISSON GREEN.
It appears that the manor Lilestone, containing five hides (now called
Lisson Green), is mentioned in the Domesday Book among the lands in
Ossultone Hundred given in alms. It is said to have been, in King
Edward's time, the property of Edward, son of Swain, a servant of the
King, who might alienate it at pleasure ; when the survey was taken, it
belonged to Eldeva. The land, says the record, is three carucates. In
demesne are four hides and a half, on which are two ploughs. The villans
have one plough. There are four villans, each holding half a virgate,
three cottars of two acres and one slave ; meadow equal to one plough-
land ; pasture for the cattle of the village ; woods for 100 hogs ; and 3d.
arising from the herbage ; valued in the whole at 6os. ; in King Edward's
time, at 403.
This manor afterwards became the property of the Priory of St. John
of Jerusalem ; on the suppression of which it was granted, in the year
1548, to Thomas Heneage and Lord Willoughby ; who conveyed it in the
same year to Edward Duke of Somerset. On his attainder it reverted to
the Crown, and was granted, in the year 1564, to Edward Downing, who
conveyed it the same year to John Milner, Esq., then lessee under the
Crown. After the death of his descendant, John Milner, Esq., in the year
I753> it passed under his will to William Lloyd, Esq. The manor of
Lisson Green, being then the property of Capt. Lloyd, of the Guards,
was sold in lots in the year 1792. The largest lot, containing the site
of the manor, was purchased by John Harcourt, Esq., M.P., who built a
noble mansion, for his own residence, at the corner of Harcourt Street
and the New Road. Part of the Harcourt estate was subsequently sold
by auction in separate lots, and the mansion above-mentioned was
occupied by Queen Charlotte's Lying-in Hospital, an institution which was
established in 1/52, removed from St. George's Row to Bayswater in
1791, and established here at Harcourt House in 1810.
The tradition is, that foot-travellers, in olden days, before crossing
the dangerous area of " Lisson Fields " by night time, used to collect
their forces and examine their fire-arms at a lonely public house on the
outskirts of Lisson Grove. How great a contrast to the present over-
crowded condition of Lisson Grove ! The report of a medical officer,
58 MARYLEBONE.
issued a few years ago, draws a terrible picture of the dwellings of the
poor in that locality. One of those dwellings contained nineteen rooms,
which appeared to have been constructed with special disregard to order
in arrangement, uniformity, and convenience. Every part of this miserable
abode was in a ruinous and dilapidated condition : the flooring of the
rooms and staircases was worn into holes, and broken away ; the plaster
was crumbling from the walls ; the roofs let in the wind and the rain ;
the drains were very defective ; and the general aspect of the place was
one of extreme wretchedness. The number of persons living in the house
was forty- seven.
THE NEW ROAD.
The New Road from Paddington to Islington, constructed in the
year 1757, is now mainly represented by Marylebone Road, Euston
Road, and Peritonville Road.
When the bill for making this road was before Parliament, the
following reasons were offered in support of it : —
1. "That a free and easy communication will be opened, between
the county of Essex and the different parts of the county of Middlesex
and the several roads leading from the western to the eartern parts of
the kingdom, without going through the streets, and by a nearer way
of about two miles.
2. That the frequent accidents which happen, and the great
inconveniences that arise, by driving cattle from the western road
through the streets to Smithfield Market, will be prevented.
3. That the pavements of the streets will be greatly preserved,
and the frequent destructions therein, by the multitude of carriages,
which must necessarily pass through the same to go from the western
to the eartern parts of the town, will be in a great measure removed,
and the business of the inhabitants of London and Westminster will
be transacted in a much easier and more expeditious manner.
4. That in times of public danger, by threatened invasions from
foreign enemies, or otherwise, this New Road will form a complete
line of circumvallation, and His Majesty's Forces may easily and
expeditiously march this way into Essex, and other counties adjacent,
to defend our coasts, without the inconvenience of passing through the
Cities of London and Westminster, or interrupting the business thereof."
THE NEW ROAD.
59
Notwithstanding all these reasons in favour of the construction of
the New Road, the bill met with strong opposition from the Duke of
Bedford, who endeavoured to introduce a clause restricting the erection
of buildings within an immense distance of the road. Horace Walpole
writes: — "A new road through Paddington has been proposed to avoid
the stones. The Duke of Bedford, who is never in town in summer,
objects to the dust it will make behind Bedford House, and to some
buildings proposed, though, if he were in town, he is too short-sighted
to see the prospect."
His grace's amendment would have rendered the bill nugatory, but
it was rejected, and the bill for the construction of the New Road
passed. A clause was, however, inserted, prohibiting the erection of
buildings, or any erection whatsoever, within fifty feet of the road,
and empowering the parochial authorities, upon obtaining an order from
a magistrate, to pull down and remove any such erection, and levy
the expenses thereof on the offender's goods and chattels, without
proceeding in the ordinary way by indictment.
Thomas Smith, the historian of Marylebone, writing in 1833,
says : —
" The effect of this restriction has been the laying out and
planting gardens of fifty feet in length in front of all the houses
erected on either side of the road, which gives them a most pleasing
and picturesque appearance ; and has made it necessary to introduce
a clause in the Acts of Parliament, for building the Parish and Trinity
Churches, to legalize the erection of their respective porticoes, which
encroach within the prescribed boundary.
"This Road, which is now one of the finest leading avenues to
the metropolis, is also considered one of the most convenient ; stage
Coaches and Omnibuses (a vehicle recently brought into use) passing
for the conveyance of passengers, from Paddington to the City, every
five minutes daily, another proof of the immense increase of population,
since, 35 years ago, only one coach ran from Paddington to London,
and the proprietor could scarcely obtain a subsistence by his speculation.
" The New Road is skirted by well-built houses, some of which
were erected soon after the road was cut. On entering this Parish
the road takes a slight turn after passing the "Old Fathing Pie
60 MARYLEBONE.
House " on the south ; and crossing Portland Road, passes through
Park Crescent ; from this point the rows of houses on the south side
are named as follows : — Harley Place, Devonshire Terrace. Leaving these,
we arrive, successively, at Church House, Church Cottage, the Parish
Church, and St. Mary-le-bone Workhouse and Infirmary (described by
a late writer, as "possessing as many windows and covering as much
ground as a Russian Palace "), York Buildings, Salisbury Place,
Cumberland Place, Queen Charlotte Row ; at the end of this Row is
situated the extensive bowling-green and grounds of the Yorkshire
Stingo ; this house has been a celebrated House of Entertainment for
more than a century ; and it appears in the plan of the New Road
of the date of 1757. Here was formerly held a fair on the ist of May,
annually, which was tolerated by the Magistracy for several years, until it
became the resort of a multitude of disorderly and dissolute characters,
and a complete nuisance to the inhabitants of the vicinity, \vhen it was
finally suppressed, within the last few years, by order of the magistrates ;
this house is now a respectable tavern. Adjoining these premises is an
extensive Brewery, the property of R. Staines. The road here takes
another slight turn westward, passing an elegant building at the corner
of Harcourt Street, occupied by that excellent Institution the Queen's
Lying -in -Hospital. Paddington Chapel, in Homer Place, is the next
prominent building, and the road finally quits the parish by Winchester
Row, built in the year 1766, the houses of which have been recently
repaired, the fronts being covered with stucco, and presenting a very neat
appearance.
" The prominent features of the north side of the road are : Trinity
Church ; Albany Terrace ; Park Square ; Ulster Place ; Harley House, in
the occupation of Charles Day, Esq.; Devonshire Place House, in the
occupation of H. M. Dyer, Esq.; the office of John White, Esq.;
Mary-bone . Park House, in the occupation of the Rev. Edward Scott ;
Nottingham Terrace ; Union Place (here is a modern building, with a
gothic front occupied by the Exchange Bazaar, and the old established
Coach Manufactory of Mr. Burnand) ; Allsop Terrace. In Gloucester
Place, New Road, are situated the following extensive establishments :
Jenkins's Nursery, the Coach Manufactory of Messrs. Tilbury & Co.,
and that most respectable and valuable institution the Phylological School.
CAVENDISH SQUARE. 61
[n the next row of houses, named Lisson Grove South, is situated the
Astern General Dispensary; and the north side of the road terminates
by Middlesex Place, and Southampton Row. Here is a large cluster of
houses of ancient date, the property of George Cabbell, Esq.
CAVENDISH SQUARE.
In 1717 or 1718, Cavendish Square was laid out and the circular
piece in the centre was enclosed, planted, and surrounded by a parapet
and iron railing. The whole of the north side was taken by the
celebrated James Brydges, Duke of Chandos (then Earl of Carnarvon),
who acquired a princely fortune as pay-master of the forces in Queen
Anne's reign, and was afterwards called " The Grand Duke," from the
grandeur and state in which he lived.
The Duke, it is said, took this immense plot of ground, which
extended a long way back towards the north, with the intention of
building a town residence, corresponding with that of Cannon's. Only
the wings were completed. One was the large mansion at the corner
of Harley Street, at one time the residence of Princess Amelia ; the
other wing was the corresponding mansion at the corner of Chandos
Street.
Harcourt House, on the west side of the square, was designed by
Inigo Jones. The high brick wall, which now conceals this noble
mansion from view, may have been deemed a necessary protection
originally, when the spot was solitary and dangerous.
The South Sea failure, in 1720, caused a temporary suspension of
building, and several years elapsed before the square was completed.
In the centre of the enclosure was erected an equestrian statue
of William Duke of Cumberland, the hero of Culloden. The inscription
reads thus : —
"William Duke of Cumberland, born April 15, 1721 — died October
31, 1765. This equestrian statue was erected by Lieutenant-General
William Strode, in gratitude for his private friendship, in honour to his
public virtue. Nov. the 4th, Anno Domini 1770."
The Duke was represented in modern dress, in a manner which
induced much sarcastic and uncomplimentary criticism.
Reynolds alludes to this statue in his tenth Discourse : " In this
62 MARYLEBONE.
town may be seen an equestrian statue in a modern dress, which
may be sufficient to deter modern artists from any such attempt."
A colossal statue has been erected on the south side of
Cavendish Square, facing down Holies Street, and bearing the following
inscription : —
WILLIAM
GEORGE FREDERICK
CAVENDISH BENTINCK
BORN MDCCCII.
DIED MDCCCXLVIII.
PORTMAN SQUARE.
One of the oldest squares in Marylebone is Portman Square, the
building of which was commenced in the year 1764, but it was not
completed until twenty years later. It takes its name from that of the
Portman Family, upon whose estate of 270 acres it was built. It is
a very handsome square, 500 feet by 400 feet in size, and adjoins
the historic residence of Mrs. Elizabeth Montague, known as Montague
House.
By the death of her husband, the Hon. Edward Montague, in
1775, Mrs. Montague was left in great opulence, and maintained her
establishment in the learned and fashionable world for many years,
living in a style of splendid hospitality. For many years her elegant
house in Portman Square was opened to the world. Here the wit,
rank, and talent of the last century assembled at her receptions ; and
here was the apartment covered with feather hangings, celebrated by
the poet Cowper in the lines —
"The birds put off their every hue
To dress a room for Montague."
She had lived at the table of the second Lord Oxford, the resort
of Pope, and his contemporaries ; she was the intimate friend of
Pulteney and Lyttelton, and she lived long enough to entertain Johnson,
Goldsmith, Burke, Reynolds, and Beattie. She founded a literary society,
denominated " The Blue Stocking Club," which for some years was
the subject of much conversation.
MRS. MONTAGUE. 63
She early distinguished herself as a writer; first by her "Dialogues
of the Dead," published along with those of Lord Lyttelton ; and
afterwards by her able "Essay on the writings and genius of
Shakespeare," in which she amply vindicated our great poet from the
abuse thrown out against him by Voltaire. The work has been
pronounced by Thomas Warton the most elegant and judicious piece
of criticism this age has produced. After her death, four volumes of her
epistolary correspondence were published under the editorship of her
nephew and executor, Matthew Montague, Esq.
The extensive and well-wooded gardens belonging to Montague
House were annually, for many years, the scene of the chimney-
sweepers' holiday. On the ist of May every year, Mrs. Montague was led
by her benevolent feelings to invite all the chimney sweepers in the
metropolis to her garden, where they were regaled with good and
wholesome fare, so that they might enjoy one happy day in the year.
Mrs. Montague died in the year 1800.
In 1802, M. Otto, the French Ambassador, had his residence on
the south side of the square. Upon the occasion of peace being
proclaimed on the 2gth of April, 1802, between His Britannic Majesty
and the French Republic, illuminations of the most splendid character
succeeded the ceremonial of the day ; but the object of universal
attraction was the French Ambassador's house, which was brilliant with
illuminations by means of coloured lamps, dispersed in the form of
an Ionic temple, and having in the centre a large transparency,
representing England and France, with their various attributes, in the
act of uniting their hands, in token of amity, before an altar dedicated
to humanity, above which appeared the word Peace, with olive branches.
The following circumstance, which occurred a few days before the
illumination, will shew the true characteristics of national feeling.
Immense crowds were daily attracted by the preparations for the
magnificent display which afterwards took place. At length the word
Concord was formed in coloured lamps on the entablature of the temple.
The reading of John Bull was, however, Conquered, and his inference
was that it was intended to mean that Britain was conquered by France.
Disturbance and riot were about to commence, when M. Otto, after some
fruitless attempts at explanation, prudently conceded, and the word
64 MARYLEBONE.
amity was substituted. But it did not end there, for some sailors
found out that the initials G. R. were not surmounted as usual by a
crown. This they promptly insisted should be done, and a sort of
diadem, formed of lamps, was extemporized and placed over the monogram.
MANCHESTER SQUARE.
Manchester House, which occupies the north side of this square,
was commenced in 1776, but the building of the other portions of the
square was not finished until 1788. It had been intended originally
that the square should be called Queen Anne's Square, in honour of
the reigning sovereign, and it was proposed that a church should be
built in its centre, but for some reason the plan was never carried into
effect. The ground lying waste was purchased by the Duke of
Manchester; the house was erected upon it, and his grace's title was
given as the name to the new square which grew up in front of it.
Upon the sudden death of the Duke of Manchester, and the
minority of his heir, this noble mansion, which has a very imposing
appearance, having a spacious court-yard enclosed with iron railing,
became the residence of the Spanish Ambassador, and afterwards the
property of the Marquis of Hertford. During the residence here of
the Spanish Ambassador, he erected a small Roman Catholic Chapel in
Spanish Place, which is at the north-east corner of the square. The
chapel, which is dedicated to St. James, is reckoned a handsome piece
of architecture, and was built from designs by Bonomi. In 1832 this
chapel was repaired and its exterior covered with stucco.
Manchester House was afterwards occupied by the French
Ambassador.
DORSET SQUARE.
Dorset Square is a small but handsome square, with the area
enclosed and planted, and is built on the site of Lord's old Cricket
Ground.
BLANDFORD SQUARE.
The south side of this square was completed in the year 1833.
That was the first portion built ; and the remainder has been built
subsequently.
BRYANSTON AND MONTAGUE SQUARES. 65
At No. 16, George Eliot (Miss Marian Evans), the celerated authoress,
lived previously to the year 1865, in which year she changed her residence
to North Bank, St. John's Wood. Romola and Felix Holt were written
at the house in Blandford Square.
BRYANSTON AND MONTAGUE SQUARES.
Bryanston and Montague Squares were built on ground commonly
called "Ward's Field." Here was formerly a large pond, at which
many fatal accidents annually occurred to the school-boys of the
neighbourhood. Near this spot was also a cluster of small cottages,
called Apple Village, remarkable from having been the residence of one
of the murderers of Mr. Steele.
The two squares were built by Mr. David Porter, an eminent builder
"vvho had formerly been chimney-sweeper to the village. He acquired
large property, and made his residence in Little Welbeck Street. On
the occasion of the Jubilee to celebrate the fiftieth year of the reign of
George III., Mr. Porter gave a substantial entertainment to his workmen
and dependants in the enclosed area of Montague Square, \vhich was then
in an unfinished state ; when, notwithstanding the public situation, much
conviviality and harmony prevailed around the festive board. Mr. Porter
died in the year 1819, having lived to see the result of his active
labours, for many years, in a most flourishing state.
Bryanston and Montague Squares are both oblong in shape, and
are nearly of the same size, viz., upwards of eight hundred feet long,
and between one and two hundred feet wide.
Anthony Trollope used to live at No. 39, Montague Square.
A sarcastic writer in Knight's Cyclopedia of London gives the following
uncomplimentary account of these squares : —
" Montague Square and Bryanstone Square are twin deformities, the
former of which is placed immediately in the rear of Montague House.
They are long, narrow strips of ground, fenced in by two monotonous
rows of flat houses. In the centre of the green turf which runs up the
middle of Bryanstone Square is a dwarf weeping ash, which resembles
strikingly a gigantic umbrella or toad-stool ; and in the corresponding
site in Montague Square is a pump, with a flower-pot, shaped like an urn,
on the top of it. A range of balconies runs along the front of the
66
MARYLEBONE.
houses in Bryanstone Square ; but the inmates appear to entertain
dismal apprehensions of the thievish propensities of their neighbours, for
between every two balconies is introduced a terrible chevaux-de-frise.
The mansions in Montague Square are constructed after the most approved
Brighton fashion, each with its little bulging protuberance to admit of a
peep into the neighbours' parlours. These two oblongs, though dignified
with the name of squares, belong rather to the anomalous places
which economical modern builders contrive to carve out of the corners of
mews-lanes behind squares, and dispose of with a profit to those who
wish to live near the great."
CHAPTER V.
TYBURN TREE AND PRIMROSE HILL.
The name Tyburn. — "Deadly Never Green." — Fuller's derivation. — The journey to Tyburn. — St
Giles's Bowl. — Tom Clinch. — Cromwell, Ireton, and Bradshaw. — Celebrated Executions : Holy
Maid of Kent, Robert Southwell, Mrs. Turner, John Felton, Hacker, Axtell, Okey,
Barkstead, Corbet, Thomas Sadler, Sir Thomas Armstrong, John Smith, Jack Sheppard
Lord Ferrers, John Wesket, Dr. Hensey, John Rann, Dr. Dodd, Elizabeth Gaunt, John
Austin. — Hangmen: Derrick, Gregory Brandon, " Esquire Dun," John Ketch. — Primrose Hill
and Barrow Hill. — Green Berry Hill. — Murder of Sir Edmond Berry Godfrey. — Duels. —
Capt. Macnamara and Col. Montgomery. — Barrow Hill. — Origin of name.
TYBURN TREE.
YBURN, or Tybourn, the name anciently
applied to the whole district of Marylebone
and its vicinity, has, in process of time
become restricted to one particular spot in
the locality, where the gallows for the
execution of criminals formerly stood. Park
Lane, in 1679, was called Tyburn Road, and
in 1686, Tyburn Lane. Oxford Street also,
at one time, was called Tyburn Road.
Tyburn Gallows, or Tyburn Tree, or " Deadly
Never Green," as it was variously called, was the
public place of execution for criminals convicted in the
county of Middlesex. The actual gallows, which in
all probability was a permanent erection, was of
triangular form, standing upon three legs. There are
various allusions in the works of old authors to the
shape and uses of this celebrated structure. Thus, in
Tarlton's Jests, 1611, it is written: "It was made like
the shape of Tiborne, three-square." Taylor, the
Water Poet, in 1623, writes : —
" I have heard sundry men of times dispute,
Of trees that in one yeare, will twice beare fruit.
But if a man note Tyburn 'twill appeare,
That that's a tree that bears twelve times a yeare."
68 MARYLEBONE.
Fuller, in his Worthies, speaking of the name Tyburn, says, " Tieburne,
some will have it so called from Tie and Burne, because the poor Lollards
for whom this instrument (of cruelty to them, though of justice to
malefactors) was first set up, had their necks tied to the beame, and their
lower parts burnt in the fire " — an ingenious derivation, certainly, but, as
has been shown in another place, one which is far from probable.
Shirley, in The Wedding, makes Rawbone say, " I do imagine myself
apprehended already ; now the constable is carrying me to Newgate — now,
now, I'm at the Sessions' House, in the dock ; now I'm called — ' Not
guilty, my Lord.' The jury has found the indictment, billa vera. Now,
now, comes my sentence. Now I'm in the cart, riding up Holborn in a
two- wheeled chariot, with a guard of halberdiers. ' There goes a proper
fellow,' says one ; ' Good people, pray for me.' Now I'm at the three
wooden stilts (Tyburn). He)'! now I feel my toes hang i' the cart;
now 'tis drawn away ; now, now, now ! I am gone."
The exact spot upon which the gallows stood has been identified
with the site of Connaught Place. After the buildings accumulated, the
gallows at Tyburn was found to be in the way, and every time, after
use, was taken down and deposited in a house at the corner of Upper
Bryanston Street and Edgware Road. The house had curious iron
balconies to the windows of the first and second floors, which were used
by the sheriffs when attending in their official capacity as witnesses of
the execution. In 1783, when Tyburn ceased to be the place of
execution, the gallows was purchased by a carpenter and converted into
stands for beer butts, in the cellars of a public-house in Adam Street
called the " Carpenter's Arms."
In journeying from London to Tyburn, criminals were conveyed along
Holborn, and, as New Oxford Street was not at that time constructed,
the way lay through High Street, St. Giles's, where the drinking of
St. Giles's Bowl was an old established and long continued custom. It
seems to have been given to the wretched criminals as their last
refreshment, and Jack Sheppard, who conformed to the custom, is said to
have desired that the remainder of the drink should be given to Jonathan
Wild. I have referred to this custom in a recent book (see " Bloomsbury
and St. Giles's," by George Clinch, p. 9).
" St. Giles's Bowl " had its origin in early times, and was probably a
ST. GILES'S BOWL. 69
pardon-maser or pardon-bowl, whose superstitious use was denounced by
Latimer from St. Paul's Cross, and by Bishop Bale, who, indeed, in his
Ymage of both Churches, 1550, expressly mentions St. Giles's Bowl.
The hospitality at High Street, St. Giles, however, if the last, was
probably not the only refreshment in which the criminals indulged on
their last road to Tyburn. Swift wrote some humorous lines upon one,
Tom Clinch (with whom, of course, the present writer claims no
relationship), who called for refreshments at the " George and Blue
Boar," Holborn, now the " Inns of Court Hotel : "—
" As clever Tom Clinch, when the rabble was bawling,
Rode stately through Holborn to die of his calling,
He stop't at the George for a bottle of sack,
And promised to pay for it when he came back."
Henrietta Maria, Queen of Charles I., is said to have walked
barefooted through Hyde Park to Tyburn, and to have done penance
there ; though the fact of her having done so has been denied by the
Marshal de Bassompierre, the French Ambassador at the time.
Another historical event took place at Tyburn upon the first
anniversary of the execution of Charles I., after the Restoration, when
the bodies of Oliver Crowwell, Ireton, and Bradshaw were hung upon
the three wooden stilts of Tyburn Tree. The bodies were dragged from
their graves in Henry VI I. 's Chapel, in Westminster Abbey, and removed
at night to the Red Lion Inn, in Holborn, from whence they were
carried next morning in sledges to Tyburn, and there, in their shrouds
and cere-cloths, suspended till sunset, at the several angles of the
gallows. They were then taken down and beheaded, their bodies buried
beneath the gallows, and their heads set upon poles on the top of
Westminster Hall.
Among the celebrated persons who have been executed at Tyburn
were the Holy Maid of Kent, in the reign of Henry VIII. ; Robert
Southwell, the Jesuit, who was charged with, and, in 1595, executed for,
alleged conspiracy against the Government of Qeeen Elizabeth. He wrote
a number of books, both in prose and verse, upon theological matters.
Mrs. Turner, who was implicated in the murder of Sir Thomas
Overbury, was executed at Tyburn on the I4th November, 1615. She was
the inventress of yellow starch, and was executed in a cobweb lawn ruff
70 MARYLEBONE.
of that colour. It is also asserted that the hangman had his bands
and cuffs of yellow, which made many after that day, of either sex, to
forbear the use of that coloured starch, till it at last grew generally
detested and disused.
Among others who were executed at Tyburn, was John Felton, the
assassin of Villiers, Duke of Buckingham. His body was afterwards
hanged in chains at Portsmouth, where the murder was committed.
Hacker and Axtell were executed October igth, 1660, and Okey,
Barkstead, and Corbet were executed April igth, 1662 ; they were five of
fifty-nine individuals who signed the death warrant of Charles I. Thomas
Sadler was hanged at Tyburn in 1677, for stealing the mace and purse
of the Lord Chancellor ; and Oliver Plunket, Archbishop of Armagh,
in 1681, suffered a similar fate for an assumed design of bringing a
French army over to Ireland to murder all the Protestants in that
Kingdom. On June 2Oth, 1684, Sir Thomas Armstrong was executed at
Tyburn, as a punishment for his complicacy in the Rye House Plot.
His head was afterwards set up on Temple Bar.
A singular instance of either great tenacity of the vital principle, or
failure of the means employed by the hangman for the acomplishment of
his task, is to be found in the case of one John Smith, who was
condemned for felony and burglary, and was conveyed to Tyburn on the
1 2th of December, 1705; after he had hanged about quarter-of-an-hour,
a reprieve came, and he was cut down, whereupon, marvellous as it
seerns, " he came to himself," as an old account records, " to the great
admiration of the spectators, the executioner having pulled him by the
legs, and used other means to put a speedy period to his life."
Jack Sheppard was, as is well known, executed at Tyburn. It is
said that a crowd of two hundred thousand persons witnessed the
spectacle. The various incidents which attended the closing scene in
the life of this notorious criminal have been graphically portrayed by
the pen of the novelist Ainsworth, and by the inimitable pencil of
Cruikshank. The custom of drinking on the way to Tyburn reached
such a disgraceful pitch that it had to be entirely prohibited. Lord
Ferrers, who was executed at Tyburn on the 5th of May, 1760, for
the murder of his land-steward, on the way to Tyburn said he was
thirsty and wished for some wine and water. The sheriff said he was
DA'. HENSEY'S REPRIEVE. 71
sorry to be obliged to refuse him. By late regulations they were
enjoined not to let prisoners drink from the place of imprisonment
to that of execution, as great indecencies had been formerly committed
by the lower species of criminals getting drnnk. Lord Ferrers wore
his wedding clothes to Tyburn ; as good an occasion, he observed, for
putting them on as that for which they were first made.
John Wesket, on the gth of January, 1765, was executed at Tyburn
for the murder of his master, the Earl of Harrington. He went in the
cart, dressed in a blue and gold frock, and wearing, as the emblem of
innocence, a white cockade in his hat. He ate several oranges on his
passage ; inquired if his hearse was ready ; and then, as old Rowe used
to say, was launched into eternity.
If the melancholy spectacle of formal processions to Tyburn Tree
were intended to impress the multitudes who witnessed them with
sentiments of reverence for the laws of their country, it must be con-
fessed that the result was a complete failure. The eager curiosity
of the populace to witness executions became a source of considerable
emolument to certain miscreants, whe were in the habit of erecting
scaffolds for spectators. The prices of the seats varied according to the
turpitude or quality of the criminal. Dr. Hensey was to have been
executed for high treason in 1758, and the prices of seats for that
exhibition amounted to two shillings and two-and-sixpence ; but in the
midst of general expectation the Doctor was most provokingly reprieved.
As the mob descended from their stations with unwilling steps, it occurred
to them that as they had been deprived of the intended entertainment,
the proprietors of the seats ought to return the admission-money, which
they demanded in vociferous terms, and with blows, and, in short, they
exercised their happy talent for rioting with unbounded success.
Among the many desperate characters, who after making a
considerable figure in criminal history, have finished their career at
Tyburn, mention may be made of John Rann, commonly called " Sixteen
String Jack." It is supposed that the sixteen strings worn by Rann at
his knees were in allusion to the number of times he had been acquitted.
The following circumstances are taken from an account of the life of this
notorious man, published anonymously between the times of his sentence
and execution. John Rann was born in the parish of St. George, Hanover
72 MARYLEBONE.
Square, of very honest parents, on the I5th of April, 1752. At the age
of fourteen he was employed by Mr. Dimmock, a coachmaster of some
standing near Grosvenor Square, by whom he seems to have been well
treated, and for whom he himself always professed the most grateful
acknowledgments and regard.
It was reported that Rann acted as coachman to a nobleman, and as
postillion to the Earl of Bute, but the writer of the contemporay account
regards both reports as dubious. He thinks Rann only served as a com-
mon hackney coachman under Mr. Dimmock. Finding this employment
about the environs of Oxford Road and Grosvenor Square produced
but a bare subsistence, Rann determined to play a bolder game,
especially as he had conceived a strong attachment to a young lady,
to whose fortune he thought himself unequal.
His person, being in every way agreeable, he found means to be
frequently at masquerades, assemblies, and other places of public resort,
where address and effrontery were more useful than education. There he
became acquainted with a young lady known by the name of Miss la
Roache, for whom he entertained a passion. He was always anxious to
appear in the guise of a gentleman, and was fond of showy dress, such as
materials of green or blue trimmed with gold, or brown laced with
silver ; and his hat was usually decorated with a narrow gold or silver
band. At Barnet Races he appeared on the course dressed like a sporting
peer of the first rank. He was distinguished by the elegance of his.
appearance, in a blue satin waistcoat laced with silver, and was followed
by hundreds of spectators from one side of the course to the other,
attracted by so much finery.
Scarcely had he entered the eighteenth year of his age, when, for
t
picking a gentleman's pocket, he was taken before Sir John Fielding, and
punished. Upon several subsequent occasions Rann had to appear before
that worthy magistrate, and generally upon charges of pilfering and
robbery. William Clayton and Nathan Jones were his tutors in the art
of pocket-picking, and James College, a lad known by the name of
" Eight String Jame," was an intimate and frequent companion.
His first trial was in April, 1774, when he, William Clayton, and
Robert Shepherd, were indicted for robbing William Somers on the
king's highway of four shillings, and putting him in fear of his life ;
JOHN RANN. 73
but of this they were all acquitted, the prosecutor refusing to appear.
Their escape from punishment was no warning to the highway robbers,
and Rann was mixed up with many others shortly afterwards. One of
the most extraordinary circumstances was that Rann very frequently
boasted of his exploits in public company ; made no scruple to recite
the particulars of his robberies, and even mentioned the time when
he thought his career of iniquity would be at an end. He was often
heard to say, " I have so much money, I shall spend that, and then
I shall not last long." He frequently said that he should be hanged
about November, and once he bet a crown's wrorth of punch that he
should suffer before Christmas.
On Wednesday, the 28th September, 1774, John Rann and William
Collier were examined at the public office in Bow Street, on a suspicion
of their having robbed Dr. William Bell, Chaplain to her Royal
Highness the Princess Amelia, of his watch and eighteenpence in
money, on the highway, near Ealing in Middlesex. On the following
Wednesday, October 5th, they were submitted to another examination,
and committed to Newgate to take their trial for highway robbery.
On the 2Oth October, 1774, John Rann was conducted from Newgate
to the New Sessions House in the Old Bailey, together with his
accomplice William Collier, to take their trial for the robbery of Dr.
William Bell, near Gunnersbury Lane, and on the 26th of October
they both received sentence to be executed at Tyburn, and Eleanor
Roach to be transported for fourteen years. Rann was executed on
the 3oth of November.
John Thomas Smith, in his Book for, a Rainy Day, records some
curious reminiscences of Rann's journey to the gallows. He says: — "I well
remember, when in my eighth year, my father's playfellow, Mr. Joseph
Nollekens, leading me by the hand to the end of John Street, to see the
notorious terror of the king's highways, John Rann, commonly called
' Sixteen-string Jack,' on his way to execution at Tyburn, for robbing
Dr. Bell, Chaplain to the Princess Amelia, in Gunnersbury Lane. Rann
was a smart fellow, a great favourite with a certain description of ladies.
The malefactor's coat was a bright pea-green ; he had an immense
nosegay, which he had received from the hand of one of the frail
sisterhood, whose practice it was in those days to present flowers to their
74 MARYLEBONE.
favourites from the steps of St. Sepulchre's Church, as the last token of
what they called their attachment to the condemned, whose worldly
accounts were generally brought to a close at Tyburn, in consequence of
their associating with abandoned characters. On our return home,
Mr. Nollekens, stooping close to my ear, assured me that had his
father-in-law, Mr. Justice Welch, been high constable we could have
walked all the way to Tyburn by the side of the cart."
The following humorous account of the closing scene in Dr. Dodd's
life (executed at Tyburn for forging a bond in the name of the Earl of
Chesterfield, for £4200) is extracted from Seluyn's Correspondence: —
"Another was executed at the same time with him, who seemed
hardly to engage one's attention sufficiently to make one draw any
comparison between him and Dodd. Upon the whole the piece was not
very full of events. The doctor, to all appearance, was rendered perfectly
stupid from despair. His hat was flapped all round, and pulled over his
eyes, which were never directed to any object around, nor even raised,
except now and then lifted up in the course of his prayers. He came in
a coach, and a very heavy showrer of rain fell just upon his entering the
cart, and another just at his putting on his nightcap. During the shower,
an umbrella was held over his head, which Gilly Williams, who was
present, observed was quite unnecessary, as the doctor was going to a
place where he might be dried.
" He was a considerable time in praying, which some people standing
about seemed rather tired with ; they rather wished for a more interesting
part of the tragedy. The wind, which was high, blew off his hat, which
rather embarrassed him, and discovered to us his countenance which we
could scarcely see before. His hat, however, was soon restored to him,
and he went on with his prayers. There were two clergymen attending
on him, one of whom seemed very much affected. The other, I suppose,
was the ordinary of Newgate, as he was perfectly indifferent and unfeeling
in everything he said and did.
" The executioner took both hat and wig off at the same time. Why
he put on his wig again I do not know, but he did ; and the doctor took
off his wig a second time, and then tied on a nightcap which did not
fit him ; but whether he stretched that or took another, I could not
perceive. He then put on his nightcap himself, and upon his taking it
PRIMROSE HILL AND BARROW HILL. 75
he certainly had a smile on his countenance, and very soon afterwards
there was an end of all his hopes and fears on this side the grave.
He never moved from the place he first took in the cart ; seemed
absorbed in despair and utterly dejected, without any other signs of
animation but in praying. I stayed till he was cut down and put into
the hearse."
The last woman who suffered death in England for a political offence
was Elizabeth Gaunt, an ancient matron of the Anabaptist persuasion,
burned to death at Tyburn for harbouring a person concerned in the Rye
House Plot. The last person executed at Tyburn was John Austin, who
suffered death on the 7th of November, 1783. After that date criminals
were executed at Newgate.
The earliest hangman, whose name is known as having officiated
at Tyburn, was Derrick. He lived in the reign of James I., and is
mentioned by Dekker, in his Gull's Hornbook, and by Middleton, in his
Black Book. He was succeeded by Gregory Brandon, who, it is said, had
arms confirmed to him by the College of Heralds, and became an esquire
by virtue of his office. Brandon was succeeded by Dun, " Esquire
Dun" as he was called; and Dun, in 1684 by John Ketch, commemorated,
by Dryden in an epilogue, and whose name is now synonymous with
hangman. The hangman's rope was commonly called " a riding knot an
inch below the ear," or " a Tyburn tippet ; " and the sum of I3^d. is
still distinguished as " hangman's wages."
Trials, condemnations, confessions, and last dying speeches were first
printed in 1624; and "Tyburn's elegiac lines" have found an enduring
celebrity in The Dunciad.
PRIMROSE HILL AND BARROW HILL.
The name of this celebrated eminence is supposed to have been
derived from the abundant growth in its vicinity of the beautiful flowers
whose name it bears. Primroses grew abundantly, too, in " Primrose
Lane " adjoining. There seems to have been an idea that it was
once called " Green Berry Hill," but the idea is probably erroneous.
Barrow Hill (now occupied by the reservoir of a waterworks company)
seems to have been known by that name at one time, and a rather
curious circumstance in connection therewith is that three of the
76
MARYLEBONE.
supposed murderers of Sir Edmond Berry Godfrey, in 1678, were named
Green, Berry, and Hill. It is not improbable that " Green Berry Hill "
was a form of name adopted in consequence of that curious fact, but the
more ancient form of Barrow Hill was afterwards revived, and, as far as
the name is now preserved, the ancient form is still used. Barrow Hill
Road and Barrowhill Place are named after that historical eminence.
Perhaps the most important event in connection with Primrose Hill
was the discovery of the murdered body of Sir Edmond Berry Godfrey,
on Thursday, October I7th, 1678. He had probably been murdered
elsewhere by strangulation. Three persons, namely, Robert Green, Cushion-
man to the Queen's Chapel ; Lawrence Hill, servant to Dr. Godden,
Treasurer of the Chapel ; and Henry Berry, Porter at Somerset House ;
were tried for this murder at the King's Bench, before the Lord Chief
Justice Scroggs, on the loth of February, 1679. The infamous witnesses,
Gates, Prance, and Bedloe, declared " that he was waylaid and inveigled
into the Palace (Somerset House), under the pretence of keeping the peace
between two servants who were fighting in the yard ; that he was there
strangled, his neck broke, and his own sword run through his body ; that
he was kept four days before they ventured to remove him ; at length his
corpse was first carried in a Sedan chair to Soho, and then on a horse to
Primrose Hill." The verdict at the Coroner's Inquest was " That he was
murdered by certain persons unknown to the Jurors, and that his death
proceeded from suffocation and strangling ; and that his sword had been
thrust through his body some time after his death, and when he was quite
cold ; because not the least sign of blood was seen upon his shirt, or his
clothes, or the place where he was found." Thus, although the evidence
taken at the Inquest and that of the witnesses at the Trial agreed in
some particulars, there was not the slightest ground upon which to convict
the three prisoners.
Nevertheless the jury found them all guilty of the murder, and the
Lord Chief Justice said, " They had found the same verdict that he would
have found had he been one of them." Green and Hill were executed on
the 2ist of February, declaring their innocence to the last ; and Berry,
who also declared himself innocent, was executed on the a8th day of
May.
Sir Edmond's corpse was embalmed and kept until the 3ist of
SIR EDMOND GODFREY. 77
October, when it was carried from Bridewell Hospital, of which he was
one of the Governors, to the Church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, where he
was buried. The pall was supported by eight knights, all Justices of the
Peace ; and all the Aldermen of the City of London attended the funeral.
Seventy-two ministers marched two-and-two before the body, and great
multitudes followed after in the same order. A sermon was preached on
the occasion by Dr. Williams Lloyd, Vicar of St. Martin's.
Sir Edmond Godfrey was himself a magistrate, and had been active
in the discovery of the Popish Plot in 1678, and a recent writer has
suggested that his death might have been plotted by Titus Gates.
Primrose Hill and the neighbouring locality has been the scene of
several sanguinary duels, one of which took place on April 6th, 1803,
between Lieut. -Col. Montgomery and Capt. Macnamara, in consequence
of a quarrel between them in Hyde Park, when a meeting was appointed
for 7 o'clock the same evening, near Primrose Hill ; the consequence of
which proved fatal. Captain Macnamara's ball entered the right side of
Colonel Montgomery's chest, and passed through the heart ; he instantly
fell without uttering a word, but rolled over two or three times, as if
in great agony, and groaned. Being carried into Chalk Farm, he expired
in about five minutes. Colonel Montgomery's ball went through Captain
Macnamara, entering on the left side, just above the hip, and passing
through the left side, carrying part of the coat and waistcoat with it,
and taking part of his leather breeches and the hip button away with
it on the other side. A Coroner's Inquest returned a verdict of man-
slaughter against Captain Macnamara, who was tried at the Old Bailey
on the 22nd of April, when he received an excellent character from
Lords Hood, Nelson, Hotham, and Minto, and a great number of highly
respectable gentlemen, and the jury returned a verdict of " not guilty."
The name of Barrow Hill — the adjoining hill to Primrose Hill — is
suggestive of an ancient funeral mound. Barrow was a wrord which
signified an earthwork generally, but was confined as a general rule to
burial mounds. It is extremely difficult to say whether Barrow Hill may
or may not have been an artificially-formed eminence. The reservoir of
the West Middlesex Waterworks now occupies the top of the hill, and
its construction has destroyed the form of the hill so much that it is
a matter of considerable difficulty to form any idea of its original shape.
78
MARYLEBONE.
Under these circumstances it is impossible to ascertain much about
Barrow Hill, except that the name is of great antiquity and probably
has some reference to its historical associations.
Primrose Hill is now chiefly remarkable for the beautiful and
extensive view which it commands all around, and especially over Regent's
Park, and the adjacent parts of Marylebone and St. Pancras.
CHAPTER VI.
MARYLEBONE: SOCIETIES AND INSTITUTIONS.
The Marylebone Volunteers. — The Royal York St. Marylebone Volunteers.— The Royal Toxophilite
Society, Regent's Park.— Sir Ashton Lever. — The Archer's Hall. — The Marylebone Cricket
Club. — Thomas Lord. — M. Garnerin's balloon ascent. — The Zoological Society. — The Royal
Botanic Society's Gardens, Regent's Park. — The Middlesex Hospital.
THE MARYLEBONE VOLUNTEERS.
URING the last few years of the i8th century,
this military association was formed. It is
thus described in a \vork entitled — " Loyal
Volunteers of London and Environs," published
in 1799 : —
" MARYLEBONE VOLUNTEERS.
Commandant, Lieutenant-Colonel Phipps.
This Corps was formed early in 1798, under
the Command of Lieutenant - Colonel Phipps,
to protect their own district. They consist of
six Companies, Light Infantry, Grenadiers, and
Battalion Men. Received their Colours from the
hand of the Right Hon. Lady Kinnoul, in Lord's
Ground, Marylebone, the 3oth of May, 1799, and
were reviewed by His Majesty the 4th of June.
The concerns of this Association are regulated by
a Committee, military and parochial. The number
they mean to extend to is undetermined.
NAMES AND RANK OF OFFICERS.
Commandant, Lieutenant-Colonel Phipps.
Major, — Hamilton.
8o MARYLEBONE.
Captains, Welford, Blair, Wyatt, Thompson, Sir Henry Lambert.
Lieutenants, Delamain, Neale, Boscowen, Pownall, Dare, Plowdc-n,
Harcourt, Ward, Johnson, Arnold.
Adjutant, Jos. Bibbins.
Surgeon, — Daston.
DRESS.
Round Hat, and Bear-skin with green Feather.
Breast-plate, oval with a Star.
Cartouch, a small Star.
Half Boots, &c."
The uniform also included a blue jacket, turned up with red, blue
pantaloons, &c., from which circumstance they were facetiously called
" Blue Bottles." The arms were provided by Government, and deposited
at the workhous.e. Their parade ground was situated in George Street.
According to one account, the corps was formed in 1797, but other
ii accounts say 1798. It was disbanded in the year 1801.
THE ROYAL YORK ST. MARYLEBONE VOLUNTEERS.
In 1802, after the short interval of peace, the old threat of
invasion being repeated, a second Volunteer Corps of Infantry was
specially established under the above title, in compliment to His Royal
Highness the Duke of York, who at that time resided in the parish.
This corps soon arrived to great perfection in order and discipline,
under the command of Colonel the Rt. Hon. Viscount Duncannon, and
T. Phillips, Esq., their Adjutant ; and comprised upwards of one
thousand effective members. The uniform was different to that of the
original corps, being a handsome scarlet jacket, trimmed with gold lace,
blue pantaloons, &c. The arms were provided by the Government, and the
Armoury and Orderly Room were first established at No. 4, Nottingham
Street, and afterwards removed to a building at the corner of
Marylebone Lane and Wigmore Street. The expenses of the corps were
defrayed by a subscription amongst its members. A subscription was,
however, solicited in 1804, from those inhabitants who were exempt,
or not eligible to serve in the corps ; when it was stated in the
circulars, distributed on the occasion, that nearly £20,000 had been
expended in establishing the Association, which was one of most
THE ROYAL TOXOPHILITE SOCIETY. 81
respectable character, being composed principally of master tradesmen,
and officered by gentlemen. The corps was broken up in 1814, and
the remains of their fund amounting to £700 vvas presented to the
Parish Charity School, and Middlesex Hospital ; viz., £400 to the
School, and £300 to the Hospital.
THE ROYAL TOXOPHILITE SOCIETY.
Near the Inner Circle of Regent's Park are the grounds and hall
of this ancient society, of which the following are some historical
particulars :—
In the year 1514, the citizens of London practised archery in the
fields round about Islington, Hoxton, and Shoreditch. Henry VIII.
was particularly fond of archery, and in 1537 commissioned Sir
Christopher Morris, Master of the Ordnance, to revive the amusement,
which at that time was rather drooping, by establishing a society of
archers, which was called "the Fraternitye or Guylde of St. George,"
upon which the King conferred many privileges. They were constituted
"Overseers of the Scyence of Artyllery, that ys to wyt, for Long-bowes,
Cross-bowes, and Handguns."
The Archers of St. George used to assemble in Lolesworth or
Spital-fields, and the name of their place of exercise at this spot was
Teaselcroft, so called from the thistles with which it abounded.
The Honorable Artillery Company had its origin about the year
I5&5> when London being wearied with continual musters, a number of
its gallant citizens who had served abroad with credit, voluntarily
exercised themselves, and trained others to the ready use and practice
of war. The ground they used was at the north-east extremity of the
City, near Bishopsgate, the same which had before been occupied by the
above-mentioned Fraternity of Artillery. Fort Street, Artillery Street
and Lane adjoin Spital Square, and by their names identify the spot.
Within two years there were nearly 300 merchants and others sufficiently
skilled to train common soldiers, and in 1588, in connection with the
preparations for repelling the Spanish Armada, some of them had
commissions in the camp at Tilbury. The association soon afterwards
fell into decay, yet, as the Company has never since its first creation
been altogether extinct, it is at present the oldest representative of
G
82 MARYLEBONE.
the English standing army. From the Company's Register, the only
book they saved in the Civil Wars, it appears that the association
was revived in 1611, by warrant from the Privy Council, and the
number of the Volunteers soon amounted to 6,000.
Three years after this they made a general muster, when, according
to a contemporary authority, the men were better armed than disciplined.
In 1622 they erected an armoury, towards which the Chamber of
London gave £300. It was furnished with 500 sets of arms of
extraordinary beauty, which were all lost in the Civil Wars. Their
captain during a part of those troublous times was a Mr. Manby, who
detained for his own purposes the arms, plate money, books, and other
goods of the Company, and the Protector was in vain solicited to
enforce their restoration. In 1640 they quitted their old field of
discipline, and entered upon the plot of ground which they now occupy
in Bunhill Fields, leased to them by the City. This ground is described
as a parcel of ground consisting of gardens, orchards, etc., situated on the
north side of Chiswell Street, and called by the name of Bunhill Fields,
which was in the year 1498 converted into a spacious field for the use
of the London archers, and which is now known by the name of the
Artillery Ground.
For many years the}- kept up an Archery Division, archery being
the art cultivated by the Company in their earliest days, when the bow
and arrow were used in warfare. In process of time this division was
abolished, but archery was still kept alive in the neigbourhood of London
by the Finsbury Archers. Even this remnant of the ancient art of
archery had almost died out when the few survivors joined Sir Ashton
Lever in the inauguration of the Toxophilite Society, in 1781.
Some years later the members of the Artillery Company appear to
have resumed the bow, as they occupied two pairs of targets at the
grand meeting of Archery societies on Blackheath, in 1792, and the
Toxophilite Society, in its earlier years, mostly held their principal
meetings in the Company's ground. But the Finsbury archers have
never reappeared, and the Archers' Division of the Honourable Artillery
Company has also become merged into the Royal Toxophilite Society.
Sir Ashton Lever, Knight, who founded the Royal Toxophilite
Society, on April 3rd, 1781, was son of Sir D'Arcy Lever, of Allington,
THE ROYAL TOXOPHILITE SOCIETY. 83
near Manchester. He finished his education at Corpus Christi College,
Oxford, and on leaving the University went to reside with his mother,
and afterwards settled at his family seat, Allington, which he rendered
famous by forming there the best aviary in the kingdom. He next
paid great attention to the study of all branches of natural history,
which taste is said to have had its origin from the circumstance of his
having shot a white sparrow. He is said to have become possessed
of one of the finest museums in the world, in the procuring of which
he spared no expense, and he purchased specimens from the most
distant regions. This collection was removed to London about the year
1775, and opened to the public in Leicester House, Leicester Square.
Unfortunately, the exhibition does not appear to have been a very
successful enterprise, as from the want of public patronage Sir Ashton
Lever was obliged to dispose of his museum by lottery, and it fell to
the lot of a Mr. Parkinson, who built rooms on the Surrey side of the
Thames, near Blackfriars Bridge, for its reception, and did everything
in his power to render it interesting to the public, but he was obliged
to dispose of it by auction in 1806, when the whole of it was dispersed.
Between the years 1792 and 1796, a handsome quarto volume was
published, entitled " Museum Leverianum ; containing Select Specimens
from the Museum of the late Sir Ashton Lever, Kt., with Descriptions
in Latin and English. By George Shaw, M.D., F.R.S." This volume,
which was published by James Parkinson the proprietor of the collection
at that time, was richly illustrated with full-page coloured engravings,
some of which are very fine, but there does not appear to be much
method in their arrangement. According to the report of Mr. John
Church before the House of Commons, which is quoted in the
beginning of the volume, this beautiful collection of specimens was by
careful computation estimated to be of the value of upwards of £53,000.
Dr. George Shaw, who was the author of numerous works upon natural
history, and a lecturer upon the same subject, delivered several lectures
upon the Leverian Museum, both before and after that collection was
removed from Leicester House, which never failed to attract a numerous
and scientific audience.
Sir Ashton Lever died in 1788, of an apoplectic attack, while
sitting on the bench with the other magistrates at Manchester.
84 MARYLEBONE.
About the year 1776, Mr. Waring, father of the well-known bowyer
of Caroline Street, Bedford Square, being then resident with Sir Ashton
Lever at Leicester House, and having by continued application to
business contracted an affection of the chest which the doctors could
not relieve, resolved to try the effect of archery. He commenced, and
continued the practice regularly, and ascribed his cure, which was
perfect, solely to the use of the bow. Sir Ashton Lever, seeing the
good effect of archery, followed Mr. Waring's example, and was joined
by a few friends, who formed themselves into the Toxophilite Society.
The practice of archery took place on the lawn at the back of
Leicester House. Prince George of Wales (afterwards George IV.), who
was fond of archery, shot with the members of this Society, at
Leicester House, and on his becoming patron of the Society, in 1787,
it assumed the title of "Royal," by which it has ever since been
distinguished. William IV., the Prince Consort, and the Prince of
Wales have been patrons subsequently.
Among the plate belonging to this Society are the large silver
shield given to the Archers' Company by Queen Catherine of Braganza,
consort of Charles II., and silver arrows of the same and earlier periods.
In 1791, the Society rented from the Duke of Bedford grounds
lying on the east side of Gower Street, where the houses on the west
side of Torrington Square now stand ; and also rented rooms and
cellars in what was at that period called Charlotte Street, but now
Bloomsbury Street (not many doors from New Oxford Street).
In 1805, the Archery Grounds being required for buildings, the
Society's property remained in charge of Mr. Waring, in Charlotte
Street, Bedford Square, until 1821, when Mr. Waring rented a piece of
ground about four acres in extent, at £j per acre, situated at
Bayswater, on the estate of the Bishop of London. Its exact position
was opposite the point of separation between Hyde Park and Kensington
Gardens, lying on the east side of Westbourne Street, and extending
from the Oxford Road northwards to the Grand Junction Road at
Sussex Gardens.
In the year 1834, the Society obtained possession of a most eligible
piece of ground, of about six acres in extent, from the Department of
Woods and Forests. This is situated in Regent's Park, near the Royal
PH
K
N
THE ROYAL TOXOPHILITE SOCIETY. 85
Botanic Society's Gardens, and upon it was erected a building known as
the Archers' Hall. On account of the plantations, the ground is seldom
seen from the road. There is a gravelled path enclosing the whole
area, which, excepting the greensward reserved for the targets, is
tastefully laid out with clumps of trees and flowering shrubs, and beds
with a profusion of flowers.
The ceiling and walls of the hall are handsomely panelled and
decorated with the arms of the Society. The lockers around the hall
bear the arms of the members. There are stags' heads upon the walls,
and the windows are partially filled with painted glass, representing the
arms of the founder, presidents, and patrons.
The London Skating Club have a building at the south-west end
of the Royal Toxophilite Society's grounds, which, during a portion of
the winter, is flooded with water for the purpose of skating, when the
weather is sufficiently severe to render that sport possible.
"The laws of the Toxophilite Society," instituted in the year 1781,
and revised and altered in the year 1791, set forth that the members of
the Society are limited to two hundred, and " shall meet every Tuesday
and Friday, from the Fifteenth of April to the Fifteenth of October
yearly, at Five o'Clock in the Afternoon, upon the Toxophilite
Ground, Bedford Square, for the Purpose of shooting, of transacting
the Business of the Society, and afterwards of supping together ;
which Meetings shall be called The Summer Meetings ; and on the
Third Tuesday in the Month of February, yearly, at Three o'Clock,
for the Purpose of transacting the Business of the Society, and
afterwards of dining together (at such House as the Majority of the
Members present at the last Summer Meeting shall agree upon), which
Meeting shall be called The Annual Winter Meeting; and also on such
Target Days as are hereinafter appointed. That there shall not be
any Business transacted upon any Target Day except the particular
Business relating to the Target, nor at any Summer Meeting before
Eight o'Clock, or after Supper; nor at the Winter Meeting after Dinner;
nor unless there shall be present, at such Summer or Winter Meeting,
Nine Members or more."
The admission of members was by ballot, two black balls excluding
the candidate. A sum of three guineas entrance-fee was charged, in
86 MARYLEBONE.
addition to the annual subscription of three guineas. The prescribed
uniform of the Society was as follows : " A Green Cloth Coat and
White Waistcoat and Breeches of Cloth, or Kerseymere, with Gilt
Arrow Buttons, White Stockings, and Black Hussar Half Boots; a Black
Round Hat, with the Prince of \Vales's Button, a double Gold Loop,
and One Black Cock Feather ; " shooting accoutrements, " A Black
Leather Brace, a Buff-coloured Leather Belt, with a Pouch and a
Green Tassel."
Mr. Thomas Wearing, who in 1814 wrote " A Treatise on Archery ; or,
The Art of Shooting with the Long Bow," mentions, in a list of model
laws for the government of archery societies, one of the articles of the
Toxophilite Society, which was " that if any Member marry, he shall
treat the rest with a Marriage Feast."
The same writer, at the end of the book, gives a list of thirty-three
toxophilite societies which had been or were in existence within a few
years of the compilation of the list.
THE MARYLEBONE CRICKET CLUB.
The mere mention of this famous club suggests to every admirer of
our national game many interesting memories and associations. So great
a part has this club played in the cricket of the past, and so important
is its position at present, that if the chapter which refers to its doings
were eliminated, the history of English cricket would be shorn of one of
its chief glories. The rules of the game of cricket, as made by this club,
are followed by cricketers in all parts of the world, and so great and uni-
versal is the estimation in which its decisions are held, that it has justly
acquired a right to the proud designation of the " Parliament of Cricket."
Mr. Andrew Lang, in writing about the history of cricket, says of the
M.C.C., "The club may be said to have sprung from the ashes of the
White Conduit Club, dissolved in 1787. One Thomas Lord, by the aid
of some members of the older association, made a ground in the space
which is now Dorset Square. This was the first ' Lord's.' ':
Subsequently, Thomas Lord found it necessary to remove to North
Bank, and finally, in 1814, to the present ground at St. John's Wood.
Mr. Ward bought the lease of the ground from Lord in 1825, "at a most
exorbitant rate;" and, in 1830, Dark bought the remainder of the lease
MARYLEBONE CRICKET CLUB.
87
from him. The first recorded cricket match played on the new ground
was M.C.C. v. Hertfordshire, June 22, 1814. In 1816, the club reviewed
its " laws," the result of which review is recorded in Lillywhite's
"Scores," i. 285. In 1825, the pavilion was burnt, after a Winchester
and Harrow match. Upon that occasion many of the cricket records
were destroyed, and no complete list of the presidents of the club is
known to exist. Since the fire the most notable presidents have been
Ponsonby, Grimston, Darnley, and Coventry. The renowned Mr. Aislabie
was secretary till his death in 1842. Mr. Kynaston and Mr. Fitzgerald
were other celebrated secretaries.
In 1868 the club purchased a lease of ninety-nine years, at the
cost of eleven thousand pounds. There have been recent additions to the
area, which is now six or seven acres in extent, and permanent stands
are erected on it, by means of which visitors can sit and see the matches.
Lord's is celebrated as the scene of matches between Eton and
Harrow, Oxford and Cambridge, Gentlemen and Players, &c.
In connection with the old cricket-ground, now known as Dorset
Square, it may be recorded that it was occasionally used as an exercising
ground by the St. Marylebone Volunteers, and in 1799 the stand of
colours was presented to the regiment in that ground, in the presence of
a vast concourse of the nobility and gentry who attended, on the occasion.
It is interesting, too, from having been the scene of M. Garnerin's
second balloon ascent in this country. In the early part of the present
century, bolloon ascents were sufficiently rare to cause intense popular
excitement, and Garnerin's ascent on the 5th of July, 1802, was an event
which drew an immense number of spectators, including a large number
of the aristocracy and nobility ; and even royalty itself was represented
in the person of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, who, as an old account
says, " attended several ladies of distinction in the ground." Garnerin,
who was accompanied by Edward Hawke Locker, Esq., was provided
with a letter of recommendation to any gentleman in whose grounds or
neighbourhood the balloon might happen to descend. The following is a
copy :—
"July 5, 1802.
" We the undersigned, having been present at the ascension
of M. Garnerin, with his balloon, this afternoon, and witnessed
88 MARYLEBONE.
the entire satisfaction of the public, beg leave to recommend
him to the notice of any gentleman in whose neighbourhood he
may happen to descend.
" Signed, " GEORGE P. W. " G. DEVONSHIRE.
" BESBOROUGH. " CATHCART."
From the contents of this letter it appears probable that some
preliminary ascent was made, perhaps with the balloon secured by ropes.
At any rate, when the balloon was liberated, it rose in a beautiful and
majestic manner. Garnerin had a parachute, constructed of a stout cotton
texture, with a circular aperture of a foot and a half diameter in the centre.
In this aperture terminated the tube containing the rope by which the
parachute was annexed to the balloon. It was the intention of this daring
aeronaut to descend from his balloon by means of this contrivance, but
he was prevented by the disturbed state of the elements. Owing to the
density of the atmosphere, the balloon and its intrepid passengers were
out of sight within three minutes from the time of starting, and an
immense number of people were left gazing upon the wide expanse, and
greatly excited. Notwithstanding the violence of the wind, the adventurers
rose to the height of a mile and a half, and descended at five minutes
past five o'clock, without the least injury, at Chingford, near Epping
Forest, having travelled a space of seventeen miles in a little more than a
quarter of an hour. Such interest had this famous aeronaut excited, that
for several hours before the ascent all the metropolis was in an uproar;
many accidents happened, and many depredations were committed. Mr.
Locker afterwards published an account of his aerial voyage, and says
in conclusion : — " Although the mob which surrounded us on our descent
were, as usual, both troublesome and officiously impertinent, we received
great attention and assistance from Mr. Hughes of the Stamp Office,
London, and several other gentlemen who beheld our arrival. Attention
would, however, have been insured to us, if necessary, by the paper put
into the hands of M. Garnerin, signed by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales,
and other persons of distinction."
THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS.
Although from a scientific and recreative point of view this institution
is of great popular interest, it does not come within the scope of the
ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS. 89
present writer to give anything beyond a very few of the chief facts in
relation to its history.
The Zoological Society of London was founded in 1826 for the
advancement of Zoology, and the introduction and exhibition of specimens
of the animal kingdom alive or properly preserved. The principal founders
were Sir Humphrey Davey and Sir Stamford Raffles.
At the present time the President of the Society is Professor W. H.
Flower, LL.D., F.R.S.
ROYAL BOTANIC SOCIETY'S GARDENS.
This society, which is essentially a scientific institution, was founded
and incorporated in the year 1839 f°r the promotion of botany in all its
branches. The grounds, about eighteen acres in extent, and occupying
the whole of the area enclosed by the road known as the " Inner Circle,"
are most beautifully laid out with a great many varieties of trees, shrubs,
and plants. The conservatory, which was designed by Decimus Burton,
affords space for two thousand visitors. One small house is specially
devoted to the cultivation of specimens of the magnificent "Victoria
Regia." There is a museum within these gardens, in which are exhibited
an interesting series of woods ; costumes made of vegetable substances,
from Tahiti and the other Society Islands ; gums ; wax models of fruits
and flowers, including those of the leaves and blossoms of the " Victoria
Regia ;" fossil trees and plants ; and numerous other objects of botanical
interest.
Among the trees in the gardens is one not very vigorous specimen,
which bears the following descriptive label : —
" Napoleon's Willow, grown from a cutting brought from
St. Helena by Capt. Shea in 1821. Planted here in 1842."
THE MIDDLESEX HOSPITAL.
The following interesting particulars of this institution are taken
from " A Brief Historical Account of the Origin and Progress of the
Middlesex Hospital," prefixed to the annual report.
The Middlesex Hospital was instituted in the month of August,
1745, for sick and lame patients ; and in 1747 a ward was opened for
the reception of lying-in married women.
go MARYLEBONB.
The hospital consisted, at first, of a building in Windmill Street, Tot-
tenham Court Road, but this being found incommodious and inadequate,
some of the most active promoters of the charity proposed to build, by sub-
scriptions among the nobility, gentry and others, a new and commodious
hospital in the neighbourhoood. A convenient site presented itself in
the " Mary-le-Bonc Fields" as they were then called, and a lease of the
same having been obtained from Charles Berners, Esq., for the term of
999 years, at a ground rent of £15 per annum, the building was com-
menced after the design of J. Paine, Esq., Architect. The Right
Honourable Hugh, then Earl, afterwards Duke of Northumberland, laid
the first stone of the present structure, with the customary solemnities,
on the I5th May, 1755.
It became necessary in the course of time, partly from want of
funds, to close the lying-in wards, and since the year 1807, the mid-
wifery patients, instead of being admitted into the hospital, have been
attended at their own habitations under the direction of the physician-
accoucheur. This department of the charity has so greatly increased,
that attendance was given during 1870 to 992 poor women during their
confinement.
In the year 1792 a most humane and charitable benefactor, whose
name, at his earnest desire, was concealed, fitted up a ward for the
admission of patients afflicted with cancer, and settled the interest of
£4000 Three per Cent. Consolidated bank annuities for ever, by way of
endowment, in aid of the cancer establishment. The death of Samuel
Whitbread, Esq. (1796) made known the secret that he was the munifi-
cent benefactor whose name had been so far concealed. Since his death
the cancer fund has been augmented by other donations and bequests,
and especially by a legacy bequeathed by Mrs. Alithea Maria Stafford ; and
in the year 1854 by a bequest in the will of Sir Joseph de Courcy
Laffan, Bart.
These endowments have enabled the governors to appropriate three
wards, viz., " Whitbread, Stafford, and Laffan," exclusively to females
suffering from cancer, besides providing accommodation for men afflicted
with the same disease.
This charity is distinct in itself, and it is believed unique through-
out the world.
MIDDLESEX HOSPITAL. 91
Towards the close of the past century causes, not now very distinctly
known, interrupted the favourable progress of the Middlesex Hospital ;
many annual governors discontinued their subscriptions, the hospital be-
came involved in debt, and most of the wards were shut up.
The Revolution in France drove to England a number of emigrants,
and of these many were French clergymen, in a state of utter destitu-
tion. The western wing of the hospital was made a receptacle for a
large body of the sick French clergy and lay emigrants, and for several
years they here enjoyed freedom from persecution. When, after a long
interval of exile, permission was in 1814 given to them to return to their
own country, those who survived availed themselves of the privilege and
took their departure, expressing great and lasting gratitude for the
quietude and comforts they had enjoyed.
The merit of having retrieved the establishment from almost com-
plete ruin is due to the late Lord Robert Seymour, who interested him-
self in its behalf, and by his personal influence prevailed upon a great
number of the nobility, clergy, and gentry to join in the good cause. He
obtained for the hospital the patronage of the Prince Regent, afterwards
George IV., whose example was followed by William IV., and her majesty
Queen Victoria.
In the year 1812, a Samaritan Fund was proposed by Richard
Cartwright, Esq., one of the surgeons, which has since been established
upon an enlarged and permanent basis. Its objects are to afford
temporary assistance to poor convalescent patients, whose residence in
the .hospital is no longer necessary, but who still require medical aid
as out-patients ; to forward poor patients, especially cripples, to their
homes; to supply flannel, linen, or other necessaries to those patients
whose diseased condition ma)- require such comforts; and for other
charitable purposes.
The Samaritan Fund is altogether a distinct and separate Fund,
no part of the donations or subscriptions for the general support or
maintenance of the hospital being applicable to it ; it is not distributed
indiscriminately to all applicants, the assistance granted being voted at
the weekly board, on the application of the chaplain, either from his
own knowledge that the patient is deserving and necessitous, or at the
recommendation of one of the physicians, surgeons, or visiting governors.
92 MARYLEBONE.
During the year 1869, seven hundred and fifty patients were relieved
from this fund, and sixty-eight were sent to the convalescent hospitals
at Walton, Seaford, Margate, Eastbourne, etc.
The building of the wings was not completed till the year 1775,
since which time no addition had been made to the Middlesex Hospital
until 1834, although during that period two of the most extensive
parishes in the metropolis had grown up about it. In April, 1834, the
governors deemed it expedient to extend each wing of the hospital thirty
feet towards the street, and the whole was paid for by subscriptions
raised for that specific purpose, without trenching upon the funds of the
hospital.
It was resolved, at a quarterly general court held in May, 1835, that
a medical school should be erected by subscription. The buildings were
commenced in July, and completed by the ist of October. A new
operating theatre 'was built upon the ground floor soon after.
A charter was obtained, through the exertions of William Tooke, Esq.,
on the 3Oth of March, 1836.
In 1848, extensive and costly improvements were made. New
rooms were provided for the superior nurses, and accommodation was
afforded for ninety additional patients, so that the hospital now contains
310 beds, instead of 220, as formerly.
In 1848, a ward was opened for the reception of cases of diseases
peculiar to women, and the governors were enabled, at the same time,
under the direction of the will of the late Lady Murray, to open the
Murray Ward, as a memorial to her deceased husband.
The museum and the school buildings have both been enlarged, and
at the present time the inmates treated number upwards of two thousand,
and the out-patients over twenty thousand.
CHAPTER VII.
MARYLEBONE CELEBRITIES, &c.
Joanna Southcott. — Mrs. Siddons.— Anecdote of Handel. — Thomas Holcroft. — Horatia " Nelson."
— Marylebone Celebrities: — Mary Lamb, Edward Gibbon, Henry Fuseli, " Berners Street
Hoax," Faraday, Wilkie, Flaxman, James Barry, Dr. Johnson, George Romney, John
Constable, Thomas Hood, Landseer, Thomas Moore, Barry Cornwall, Lyell, Leigh Hunt,
Dickens, Macready, Nollekens, Anna Jameson, Samuel Lover, Benjamin West, Thomas
Stothard, J. M. W. Turner, Thomas Campbell. Frederick Marryat, Sydney Smith, J. G.
Lockhart, Sir Walter Scott, Henry Hallam, Admiral Lord Hood, Elizabeth Barrett
Browning, William Pitt, Lady Hester Stanhope. — Miscellanea. — Cato Street Conspiracy. —
Verley's Charity. — Marylebone Rates, &c.
OANNA SOUTHCOTT, the religious fanatic who
made so such commotion in her day, was born in
Devonshire, about the year 1750, of humble parents,
and was chiefly employed in Exeter as a domestic
servant ; but having joined the Methodists, and
become acquainted with a man of the name of
Sanderson, who laid claim to the spirit of prophecy,
she advanced to a like pretension ; and wrote
and dictated prophecies, sometimes in prose, and
sometimes in rhymed doggrel.
In one of her publications she says:— "As I
have began to publish to the world, I shall give
some short account of my Life, which hath been
singular, from my youth up to this day. I shall
omit former particulars, and begin with informing
the Reader, that, in 1792, I was strangely visited, by
day and night, concerning what was coming upon
the whole earth. I was then ordered to set it
down in writing. I obeyed, though not without
strong external opposition ; and so it has continued
to the present time." She appears to have imagined
94
MA KYLE HONE.
herself to have been favoured with a great number of visions, of which
the following, told in her own words, will serve as a specimen :—
" I dreamed I saw my Father sweeping out the barn's floor
clean, and would not suffer the wheat to be brought in the barn.
He appeared to me to be in anger. When I awaked, I was
answered, ' It is thy Heavenly Father is angry with the land ;
and if they do not repent as Nineveh did, they shall sow, but
not reap ; neither shall they gather into their barns. Then shall
come three years, wherein there shall be neither eating nor
harvest."
She announced herself as the woman spoken of in the I2th chapter
of the Revelation, and obtained considerable sums by the sale of seals
which were to secure the salvation of those who purchased them.
JOANNA SOUTHCOTT.
The accompanying portrait is copied from an old engraving, which
bears underneath the following inscription: — " The Cunning Woman, who
JOANNA SOUTH COTT.
95
found the Philosopher's Stone in the shape of an old Seal ; Saw the Devil
in the shape of a Pig ; Two needy Apothecaries in the shape of Spanish
Trumpeters ; Lives comfortably with a Laywer constantly at her Elbow.
N.B. — No Portrait can be genuine but Mr. Sharp's. A. Flat."
JOA3SWA.SOUTHCOT T's
fabrdr
Joanna Southcott came up to London upon the invitation and at
the expense of William Sharp, the eminent engraver, who is evidently
the man alluded to in the above inscription. Among other gross and
impious absurdities she gave out that she was to be delivered of the
96 MARYLEBOXE.
Prince of Peace, at midnight on the igth of October, 1814, and
elaborate preparations were made in consequence. An expensive cradle
\vas made, and considerable sums were contributed by her followers, in
order to have other things prepared in a style worthy of the expected
Shiloh. When the stated time came, no birth took place. Southcott,
at that time upwards of sixty years of age, took to her bed, and, after
a confinement there of ten weeks, died on the 2yth of December, 1814.
Her death occurred in Manchester Street, Manchester Square. Her body
was opened after her decease, and the appearance of pregnancy which
had deceived her followers, and perhaps herself, was found to have arisen
from dropsy. On the 3ist of December, her body was removed to an
undertaker's in Oxford Street, where it remained until the interment.
On the third of January, it was carried in a hearse, so remarkably plain
as to give it the appearance of one returning from, rather than proceeding
to church, accompanied by one coach, equally plain, in which were
three mourners. In this manner they proceeded to the cemetery adjoining
St. John's Wood Chapel. So well had their arrangements been planned
for the insurance of privacy, that there was scarcely a person in the
ground unconnected with the funeral party. The grave was taken, and
notice given of the funeral under the name of Goddard. Neither the
clergyman of St. John's who read the service, nor any of the subordinate
persons connected with the chapel, were apprised of the real name of
the person about to be buried, till the funeral reached the chapel.
On the west side of this cemetery, opposite No. 44 on the wall, and
26 feet from it, is a flat stone underneath which are deposited the
remains of this remarkable woman. The stone is enclosed within plain
iron railings and bears the following inscription : —
"In Memory of
JOANNA SOUTHCOTT,
who departed this life, December ayth, 1814, aged 64 years.
1 While through all thy wondrous days,
Heaven and Earth enraptur'd gaz'd
While vain Sages think they know
Secrets, Thou Alone canst show.
Time alone will tell what hour,
Thou'lt appear in "Greater" Power.'
Sabincus."
MRS. SIDDONS.
97
On a black marble tablet let into the wall opposite the above spot,
is the following inscription : —
" Behold the time shall come, that these Tokens which I
have told Thee, shall come to pass, and the Bride shall Appear,
and She, coming forth, shall be seen, that now is withdrawn
from the earth." 2d of Esdras, Chap, 7th, ver. 26th.
" For the Vision is yet for an appointed time, but at the
end it shall speak, and Not Lie, though it tarry, Wait for it ;
Because it will Surely Come, it will not tarry."
Habakkuk, Chap. 2, ver. 3d.
" And whosoever is delivered from the Foresaid evils, shall
see My Wonders." ad of Esdras, Chap. 7, ver. 27th.
(See her Writings.)
"This Tablet was Erected
By the sincere Friends of the above,
Anno Domini, 1828."
It may be added, as a somewhat curious fact, that the engraver,
William Sharp, also died from dropsy, in 1824.
MRS. SIDDONS.
Upper Baker Street contains the house in which this celebrated and
talented actress lived from the year 1817, after her retirement from the
stage, until her death (in the year 1831), which took place at the house
numbered 27.
The fact is recorded upon an inscribed medallion affixed to the front
of the house by the Society of Arts. The house still contains some
memorials of Mrs. Siddons. On the staircase is a small side window of
painted glass, containing medallion portraits of Shakspere, Milton, Spenser,
Cowley, and Dryden. This is chiefly interesting from the fact that it is
the work of Mrs. Siddons, who designed it and put it up. The bow
window looking north commands a view over Regent's Park to Hampstead ;
and there is a tradition (in all likelihood an authentic one) to the effect
that, when the mansions in Cornwall Terrace were about to be brought
up to the very gates of the Park, Mrs. Siddons made a pathetic appeal
to the Prince Regent, who with gracious condescension gave orders
that her " country view " should be spared.
H
98 MARYLEBONE.
Mrs. Siddons lived a simple, unostentatious life, quite content, it is
said, with her salary of twelve pounds a week. She retired from the
stage in 1812 in her favourite character of Lady Macbeth, but she appeared
again occasionally on special occasions between 1812 and 1817. She also
gave public readings from Shakspere at the Argyle Rooms, during two
seasons. In her will she bequeathed her leasehold house in Upper Baker
Street to her daughter, together with all her pictures and furniture ; and
to her son she left an inkstand made from Shakspere's mulberry tree,
and a pair of gloves said to have been worn by the poet himself, which
had been presented to her by Mrs. Garrick.
Mrs. Siddons was buried at Paddington in a now obsolete cemetery,
recently converted into a very pretty ornamental garden and promenade,
brilliant with flowery parterres, and trim with neat gravel walks. Her
grave is marked only by a slab of cement, bearing no legible inscription
on its face, and distinguished only by a half obliterated legend cut
in its upper edge.
ANECDOTE OF HANDEL.
The following amusing anecdote of Handel was communicated to one
of Hone's publications by a writer signing himself "J. H." He was a
grandson of the Rev. John Fountayne, who rented Marylebone Manor
House, and used it as a school for young gentlemen : —
" Having been at this school from my infancy almost, down to 1790,
I have a perfect recollection of this fine and interesting house, with its
beautiful saloon and gallery, in which private concerts were held occa-
sionally, and the first instrumental performers attended. My grandfather,
as I have been told, was an enthusiast in music, and cultivated, most of
all, the friendship of musical men, especially of Handel, who visited him
often, and had a great predilection for his society. This leads me to
relate an anecdote which I had on the best authority. . . . While
Marylebone Gardens were flourishing, the enchanting music of Handel,
and probably of Arne, was often heard from the orchestra there. One
evening, as my grandfather and Handel were walking together and
alone, a new piece was struck up by the band. ' Come, Mr. Fountayne,'
said Handel, ' let us sit down and listen to this piece — I want to know
your opinion of it.' Down they sat, and after some time the old parson,
MRS. SIDDONS IN THE CHARACTER OF THE TRAGIC MUSE.
(From an Engraving after SlR JOSHUA REYNOLDS^.
THOMAS HOLCROFT.—HORATIA "NELSON." 99
turning to his companion, said, ' It is not worth listening to — it's very
poor stuff.' ' You are right, Mr. Fountayne,' said Handel, ' it is very
poor stuff — I thought so myself when I had finished it.' The old
gentleman, being taken by surprise, was beginning to apologise, but
Handel assured him there was no necessity ; that the music was really
bad, having been composed hastily, and his time for the production
limited ; and that the opinion given was as correct as it was honest."
THOMAS HOLCROFT.
This well-known writer was of humble origin, having been originally,
it was said, a shoemaker in the north. Possessing great natural
endowments, and much industry, he acquired such a knowledge of the
modern languages as enabled him to translate from them with great
facility. He was for some time a performer in the provincial theatres,
and soon after his coming up to London, in 1778, he obtained an
inferior engagement at Drury Lane Theatre, but never distinguished
himself as an actor. He produced several pieces for the stage, one of
which, " The Road to Ruin," had a great run, and is still deservedly
very popular. Holcroft was the author of "The Adventures of Hugh
Trevor," " Memoirs of Bryan Perdue," some poems, and numerous
translations from the French and German. He died at his house in
Clipstone Street, Marylebone, on the 23rd of March, 1809, and was
buried in the larger cemetery at Marylebone on the ist of April.
HORATIA "NELSON."
Lady Hamilton's daughter by Lord Nelson was baptized in the old
church at Marylebone on the 3rd of May, 1803. The birth took place in
Sir William Hamilton's own house, where every care and precaution
had been adopted to keep the matter as secret as possible from him
and one or two members of his own family. Professional attendance
was not necessary, where a skilful and well-practised mother resided on
the spot ; and as soon as the patient was capable of moving about,
which, owing to her remarkable constitution, was tolerably early, the
infant was conveyed by her in a large muff, and in her own carriage,
to the house of the person who had been provided to take charge
of it in Little Titchfield Street. On this occasion, her ladyship was
TOO MARYLEBOXE.
accompanied by Lord Nelson's confidential agent, Mr. Oliver, who had
been brought up from the age of twelve years in the house and under
the protection of Sir Wiliam Hamilton at Naples, and was afterwards
employed on various kinds of missions in that country, Germany, and
England. The condition of the infant, when brought in this manner
to the appointed nurse, was deplorable enough, and plainly showed the
hurried process by which it had been ushered into the world. Now it
is for the reader to judge whether anyone but a mother would have
conveyed a new-born babe in this extraordinary manner, in her own
carriage, to the house of a woman with whom she had no acquaintance,
and that too accompanied by an old confidential steward.
But should any doubt still be started on the subject, after such
palpable evidence, the subsequent acknowledgment of the infant by
the parties who were most concerned in the history of her origin must
wholly remove the smallest shade of scepticism from the mind of the
incredulous. That Lady Hamilton made no scruple of admitting the
relation, after the death of her husband, can be easily proved ; and
in what a tender estimation the noble lord regarded the child, the
world has not to learn. It has been said, indeed, that being his
god-child, and adopted by him on that account, his affection for her
became ardent even to a degree of paternal fondness. But the truth
is, that in the proper sense of the word, she was not his god-child,
for he neither appeared at the font in person, nor by proxy. About
a fortnight after the birth, indeed, the child was taken in a coach to
Sir William Hamilton's house, that she might be shown to Lord
Nelson, who actually came to town for that purpose. At this time
also the child certainly was baptised, but not by the curate or minister
of the parish. That ceremony, in whatever way it was performed,
had not been conducted according to the legitimate rules of the church,
which could authorize a registry of the fact ; and, therefore, it was
found expedient, about two years afterwards, to have the rite duly
solemnized in the parish Church of St. Marylebone, where a curious
difficulty occurred for the want of proper instructions being given to the
person whose place it was to mention the name, and to describe the
parents. It is not a little remarkable, that the friend of his lordship,
who privately baptised the infant, and who might be supposed to have
MARYLEBONE CELEBRITIES. 101
a thorough knowledge of the forms and orders of the church, did not
take due care to give the necessary directions with respect to the
name and parentage of the child.
When the usual question was asked by the officiating minister, he
received for answer, that the name of the child was " Horatia Nelson," by
which he accordingly baptised her, though it was intended by her friends
that the first should have been the Christian, and the latter the surname.
At the time of the registry this error was discovered when too late, and
as the parents could not be stated with safety, the entry presents the
peculiarity of a child regularly baptised, and registered without the name
of either father or mother. The name of Thompson, afterwards added to
the baptismal one of Horatia Nelson, was merely adopted from necessity
to complete the registry.
MARYLEBONE CELEBRITIES.
The large number of celebrated literary, artistic, dramatic, and other
characters who, at one time or other, have made their home in Maryle-
bone, renders it impossible to give, in the present place, anything more
than the following brief details, which, for convenience of reference, are
placed under an alphabetical arrangement. The list is certainly far from
complete, as all such lists must be more or less, but it is hoped that
such facts as are given will have some interest for the inhabitants of
the district.
ALPHA ROAD.
Mary Lamb died in Alpha Road, St. John's Wood, and was buried
in the same grave as her brother Charles, 28th May, 1847.
BENTINCK STREET.
In 1772, Edward Gibbon took the house No. 7, Bentinck Street,
Manchester Square, where some of the happiest years of his life were
spent, and where wrere written the first volumes of The Decline and
Fall of the Roman Empire. Gibbon himself describes this house as " the
best house in the world."
In his Correspondence he writes, September 10, 1774 :~
" Yesterday morning, about half an hour after seven, as I
was destroying an army of barbarians, I heard a double rap
io2 MARYLEBONE.
at the door, and my friend was introduced. After some idle
conversation, he told me that if I was desirous of being in Parlia-
ment, he had an independent seat very much at my service. This
is a fine opening for me, and if next spring I should take my
seat and publish my book, it will be a very memorable era in
my life.''
Both anticipations were realized. The first edition of " The Decline
and Fall " was exhausted in a few days, and his fame as one of the
most distinguished of English historians became well established.
BERNERS STREET.
Henry Fuseli, the eminent painter, was, in 1804, living at No. 13,
in this street, where he was visited by Haydon, who, in his Auto-
biography, writes : —
" I followed her (the maid-servant) into a gallery or show-
room, enough to frighten anybody away at twilight. Galvanized
devils, malicious witches brewing their incantations, Satan bridging
chaos, and springing upwards like a pyramid of fire, Lady
Macbeth, Paolo and Francesca, Falstaff and Mrs. Quickly —
humour, pathos, terror, blood, and murder met me at every look.
I expected the floor to give way. I fancied Fuseli himself to
be a giant. I heard his footstep, and saw a little bony hand
slide round the edge of the door, followed by a little white-headed,
lion-faced man in an old flannel dressing-gown tied round his
waist with a piece of rope, and upon his head the bottom of Mrs.
Fuseli's work-basket."
Berners Street is also celebrated as the scene of Hook's " Berners
Street Hoax." In 1810, when Hook was in London (although he had
no settled home there at that time), he spent six weeks in concocting
and elaborating a hoax, the effects of which he is said to have wit-
nessed from a safe window over the way. Mrs. Tottingham, the
unhappy victim, lived at No. 54, Berners Street, when there came to
her door hundreds of tradespeople bearing goods of all sizes and descrip-
tions, from a mahogany coffin to an ounce of snuff, ordered by Hook
in her name, to be delivered at the same hour ; while at the same
hour, at the invitation of Mrs. Tottingham (per T. H.), came as well
MARYLEBONE CELEBRITIES. 103
bishops, ministers of State, doctors in haste to cure her bodily ailments,
lawyers to make her will, barbers to shave her, mantua-makers to fit her,
—men, women, and children on every conceivable errand. The damage
done and the confusion created were very great.
BLANDFORD STREET.
Michael Faraday lived at No. 2, Blandford Street.
BOLSOVER STREET.
David Wilkie was residing at No. 8, Bolsover Street (then known as
Norton Street) when the exhibition of his picture, The Village Politicians,
at the Royal Academy Exhibition, attracted so much attention.
BUCKINGHAM STREET.
No. 7, Buckingham Street, distinguished by a memorial tablet, was
the house in which John Flaxman lived and, in 1820, died.
CASTLE STREET EAST.
James Barry, the artist, lived at No. 36, Castle Street East. The
following amusing details of his method of living are taken from Wilmot
Harrison's Memorable London Houses : —
" From thence he emerged morning after morning (in summer at five
o'clock) and thither he returned usually at dusk during the six years —
1 777-83 — that he was engaged on his colossal work of decoration at the
Society of Arts, where, according to the housekeeper, ' his violence was
dreadful, his oaths horrid, and his temper like insanity.' He is described
as ' a little shabby pock-marked man, in an old dirty coat with a scare-
crow wig,' living for the most part on bread and apples, and working
for the print-sellers at night — either at home or at the Society of Arts
(where tea was made for him in a quart pot) — to keep the wolf from the
door, until the payment of the sum of £750 at the expiration of his
gigantic task enabled him to buy an annuity of £60 a year. It is
recorded that Burke, who was a great friend to the struggling artist,
and had assisted in sending him for improvement to Italy in 1765-1770,
once dined with Barry in his painting loft on beef steaks, of which he
superintended the cooking, while Barry went to a neighbouring public-
house to fetch porter, the foaming head of which he lamented on his
return that a high wind had carried off as he crossed Titchfield Street."
io4 MARYLEBOXE.
In the year 1737, or shortly after, Dr. Samuel Johnson had lodgings
in this street, but the actual house in which he resided has not been
identified.
CAVENDISH SQUARE.
George Romney, the artist, towards the close of the last century,
lived at No. 32, Cavendish Square. "The man in Cavendish Square"
was his customary designation by Sir Joshua Reynolds, his rival in the
early part of his career.
Romney's studios still exist. He was preceded in the tenancy of
the house by Francis Cotes, R.A., and succeeded by Sir M. A. Shee, P.R.A.,
and afterwards by Sir Jones Quain and Richard Quain. E. D. Mapother,
Esq., M.D., purchased the house in 1887, and I am indebted to that
gentleman for these facts about the history of his interesting home.
CHARLOTTE STREET.
John Constable, artist, for many years resided at 76, Charlotte Street.
ELM TREE ROAD.
Thomas Hood lived, and wrote The Song of the Shirt, at No. 17,
Elm Tree Road, St. John's Wood.
FOLEY STREET.
No. 33, Foley Street, was the home of Sir Edwin Landseer, R.A.,
the great animal painter and sculptor.
No. 37 and No. 40 were occupied by Henry Fuseli ; the first from
1788 to 1792, the second in 1800.
GEORGE STREET.
No. 85, George Street, near Montague Square, was the house in
which lodged Thomas Moore, on his first coming to London at twenty
years of age, to be entered as a student at the Middle Temple.
HARLEY STREET.
No. 38, Harley Street, was for some years prior to 1861 the
residence of Barry Cornwall (Bryan Waller Procter.)
Sir Charles Lyell lived at No. 73, Harley Street from 1854 to 1875.
MARYLEBONE ROAD.
From 1817 to 1819, Leigh Hunt resided at No. 77, on the south
side of Marylebone Road.
UARYLEBONE CELEBRITIES. 105
At the corner of High Street is No. i, Devonshire Terrace, a double-
bow-fronted house wherein Charles Dickens lived from 1840 to 1850, and
wrote many of his best known works.
At No. i, York Gate, William Charles Macready lived.
MORTIMER STREET.
Joseph Nollekens, the eminent sculptor, lived, and in 1823 died, in
a house in this street formerly known as No. 9, and subsequently
converted into two houses, and numbered 44 and 45. The corner
room — now one of the two shops into which the house is divided -
which had two windows, was dining and sitting-room and sitters'
parlour. For many years two pieces of old green canvas were festooned
at the lower parts of the windows as blinds.
Mrs. Anna Jameson lived for many years in the house of her sister,
No. 7, Mortimer Street, but all of the houses have been renumbered
since that time.
Samuel Lover lived in Mortimer Street subsequently to the year 1834.
NEWMAN STREET.
Benjamin West, P.R.A., lived and had his studio at No. 14, Newman
Street. Wrest died in the drawing room in 1820. His studio was used
in 1830 as a place of worship by Edward Irving after his condemna-
tion by the Presbytery, and is now called St. Andrew's Hall.
Thomas Stothard lived at No. 28, Newman Street, from 1794 until
his death, which took place in 1834.
QUEEN ANNE STREET.
Joseph Mallord William Turner resided in a house in this street,
which is described as having been in a very neglected condition during
that artist's tenancy of it, and having a blistered dirty house-door and
black-crusted windows. The house is gone, and Nos. 22 and 23 now
occupy its site.
SEYMOUR STREET.
Between the years 1822 and 1828, Thomas Campbell lived at
No. 18, Seymour Street.
io6 MARYLEBONE.
SPANISH PLACE.
Frederick Marryat lived at No. 3, Spanish Place, in 1842.
STRATFORD PLACE.
At No. 18, Stratford Place, Sydney Smith lived for some months
about the year 1834.
SUSSEX PLACE.
No. 24, Sussex Place, was, in 1820, the residence of John Gibson
Lockhart, the biographer of Sir Walter Scott, and here, on what was
then the very verge of the metropolis, Sir Walter was accustomed to
stay with his daughter, Mrs. Lockhart, on his visits to London.
WIMPOLE STREET.
Henry Hallam- resided and wrote his great works, The History of the
Middle Ages and Constitutional History of England, at No. 67, Wimpole
Street.
In the house No. 12 in the same street lived Admiral Lord Hood.
Elizabeth Barrett Browning, at that time Miss Barrett, was living
at No. 50, Wimpole Street, from 1836 until her marriage ten years
later. The Cry of the Children was written in this house.
The name of the street is taken from Wimpole, in Cambridgeshire,
sold by the second Earl of Oxford to Lord Chancellor Hardwicke.
YORK PLACE.
No. 14, York Place, was the residence from 1802 to 1806, of
William Pitt. Pitt's niece, Lady Hester Lucy Stanhope, then twenty-
three years of age, came to live with him here in 1803.
MISCELLANEA.
THE CATO STREET CONSPIRACY.
The street from whence this extravagant conspiracy is named is
situated in Marylebone, near the Edgeware Road, but was afterwards
named Horace Street.
The immediate object of this plot was the assassination of the
ministers of state. The originator of the idea was one Arthur Thistlewood^
who was a man of some fortune and education. He was a subaltern
THE CATO STREET CONSPIRACY.
107
officer, first, in the militia, and afterwards in a regiment of the line,
stationed in the West Indies. After resigning his commission, and
spending some time in America, he passed into France, where he
arrived shortly after the fall of Robespierre. There he imbibed revo-
lutionary ideas, and adopted the belief that the destruction of the
institutions of his country was the only object worthy of the labours
of a man. He sent a challenge to Lord Sidmouth, for which he was
tried, and punished.
ARTHUR THISTLEWOOD.
After his liberation in August, 1819, Thistlewood, actuated by a
spirit of revenge, employed himself in forming connections with the most
degraded of the lowest and poorest class. Ings, a butcher, Tidd and
Brunt, shoemakers, and a man of colour named Davison, were his
principal confidants. These men held meetings in a hired room in the
neighbourhood of Gray's Inn Lane, where the necessity of murdering
the ministers, and subverting the Government, was frequently discussed.
At length, at a meeting held on Saturday, the igth February, 1820,
it was resolved that poverty did not allow them to delay their purposes
any longer, and that, therefore, the ministers should be murdered
io8
MARYLEBONE.
separately, each in his own house, on the following Wednesday. Meet-
ings were held on the Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday, and the whole
plan was arranged. On the last named day, however, Thistlewood was
informed by a conspirator named Edwards, who was a spy in the pay
of Government, that a cabinet dinner was to take place at Lord
Harrowby's house in Grosvenor Square on the morrow. Thistlewood
immediately procured a newspaper, and, on reading the announcement,
exclaimed, " It will be a rare haul to murder them altogether! " Fresh
arrangements were determined upon, and it was agreed that one of
their number was to go to the door with a note, and when it was
opened, the others were to rush in ; and while a part secured the
servants, the remainder were to force themselves into the apartment
where the ministers were assembled, and murder them without mercy ;
it was particularly specified that the heads of Lords Sidmouth and
Castlereagh were to be brought away in a bag.
18-20,
The \V ednesday was spent in preparing weapons and ammunition,
and in writing proclamations ; and towards six in the evening, the
conspirators assembled in a stable situated in Cato Street. The
building contained two rooms over the stable, accessible only by a
VERLEY'S CHARITY. 109
ladder ; in the larger of which, a sentinel having been stationed below,
the conspirators mustered, to the number of twenty-four or twenty-
five, all busy in preparing for their sanguinary plot.
The ministers, however, had been made acquainted by Edwards,
with every step that had hitherto been taken ; and a man named
Hidon, who had been solicited to join in the plot, had warned Lord
Harrowby of it, on Tuesday. The preparations for the dinner were
continued, lest the conspirators should take alarm, though no dinner
was in fact to be given.
In the meantime a strong party of Bow Street Officers, headed by
Mr. Birnie, proceeded to Cato Street, where they were met and supported
by a detachment of Coldstream Guards, under the command of Captain
Fitzclarence. The officers arrived about 8 o'clock, and entering the
stable, mounted the ladder, and found the conspirators in the loft, on
the point of proceeding to the execution of their scheme. Smithers,
one of the officers, in attempting to seize Thistlewood, was pierced by
him through the body, and immediately fell. The lights were then
extinguished, and some of the conspirators escaped through a window
at the back of the premises. The military detachment now arrived,
and by the joint exertions of the soldiers and officers, nine were taken
that evening and conveyed to Bow Street. Thistlewood, among others,
had escaped, but he was arrested next morning, in bed, in a house
near Fitzroy Square. He was tried, condemned and, with four of his
companions, executed on the ist of May, 1820, for high treason.
VERLEY'S CHARITY.
Upon a benefaction table, affixed to the wall of a room adjoining
the vestry of the old parish church, is the following inscription :—
''Thomas Yerley, late of this parish, gave £50, the interest to be
given in bread, viz., 12 penny loaves to the poor every Sabbath-day for
ever, 1692."
This money appears to have been received into the parish fund,
and from the parish funds there are now provided every week 12 penny-
loaves, which are given away by the churchwardens every Sunday after
morning service to poor old women of the parish, who attend at the
church. — Further Report of the Chanty Commissioners (1825) Vol. 14, p. 198.
no MARYLEBONE.
/
MARYLKHONI: RATKS.
The following official returns to Parliament made in 1762 by John
Austen, the vestry clerk of Marylebone at that period, will no doubt be
read by many of the present ratepayers of Marylebone with considerable
interest and curiosity.
"The first rate for the poor made in May, 1761. — At 6d. in the
pound.
" Total of the rent-charge / 18,920. — At 7d. in the pound.
" The second rate for the poor made in November, 1761. The rates
having increased, the total of the rent-charge amounts to £20,194. — At
6d. in the pound.
"The total rent-charge of the rate for cleansing the streets and
repairing the highways, consolidated pursuant to Act of Parliament in
which is included the landholders, amounts to £18,960. — At is. 6d. in
the pound.
"The lamp rate, by 29 George II., is directed to be made on all
persons inhabiting the streets, £c., where lamps are or shall be erected
by order of the committee therein mentioned ; but as most of the
inhabitants (especially persons of quality and distinction) chose to put
up lamps at their own expense, which they may do upon giving proper
notice, the burthen at present lies chiefly upon the poorer sort of
inhabitants.
" The rent-charge fluctuates ; but is at present about £206.
" The present contractor has agreed with the committee to cleanse
the streets for one year for £170.
" The composition with the trustees of the Turnpike road from St.
Giles's pound to Kilburn bridge, in lieu of statute-work, and towards
repairing the pavement of Oxford Street, is £75.
" The present contract with the lamp-lighter, for lighting about 112
lamps, is £i 125. per annum each."
In the neighbourhood of the Middlesex Hospital there was in the
last century a rope-walk, extending north to a considerable distance
under the shade of two magnificent rows of elms. This was a favorite
spot of Richard \Yilson and Baretti, who frequently took a walk there
together,
BURIAL OF A SUICIDE. in
A curious instance of the burial of a suicide at cross-roads took
place at St. John's Wood in the first quarter of the present century.
Sir Charles Warwick Bampfylde, Bart., was shot in the street, in the
open day, shortly after he had come out of his house in Montague
Square, on the 7th of April, 1823. Morland, the assassin, had formerly
been in his service, and his wife was in Sir Charles's service at the
time. Upon seeing that his aim had taken effect, Morland discharged
a second pistol into his own mouth, which killed him on the spot.
This murder was committed while under the influence of jealousy, which
was afterwards proved to have been entirely groundless. Sir Charles
lingered till the igth of April, when he expired in great agony. The
jury which sat upon the body of the murderer, having returned a verdict
of fclo dc sc, his body was buried in the cross road, opposite St. John's
Wood Chapel. Sir Charles was descended from one of the most dis-
tinguished families in Devonshire, and was in the 7ist year of his age.
The unsafe condition of the country-lanes in the neighbourhood of
Marylebone early last century is illustrated in the following extract from
The Evening Post newspaper (March 16, 1715): — "On Wednesday last,
four gentlemen were robbed and stripped in the fields between London
and Mary-le-bon."
On the 2ist of June, 1825, the square of houses formed by Great
Titchfield Street, Wells Street, Mortimer Street, and Margaret Street,
was nearly all destroyed by a dreadful fire, which commenced in the
workshops of Mr. Crozet, carver and gilder, in Great Titchfield Street ;
caused by a kettle containing a compound called French polish, boiling
over, which set fire to some shavings of wood. The flames spread
rapidly to the premises of Mr. Woolley, a stable-keeper ; Mr. Stoddart, a
pianoforte maker ; Mr. Stout, who had a mahogany and timber-yard ;
Mr. Messer, a coachmaker ; Messrs. Bolton and Sparrow, upholsterers ;
the Chapel of Ease in Margaret Street ; Mr. Pears, perfumer ; Mr. Arnold,
grocer; Miss Storer and Miss Vennes. In Mortimer Street, the houses
of Mr. Wales, cabinet-maker; Mr. Hunt, card-maker; Mr. Reid, sofa
and chair-maker; Mr. Kensett, cabinet-maker; and Messrs. Holt and
Scheffer, were in a short time reduced to ruins.
112
MARYLEHOXE.
A part\- of the Guards soon arrived at the spot, and assisted the
police officers in aiding the firemen, and preventing plunder. But all
the exertions of the firemen, with a plentiful supply of water, appeared
to have no effect in extinguishing the flames. In the whole, not less
than thirty houses and shops were destroyed. More than one hundred
families were thus deprived of a home, and many, who were lodgers,
lost all they possessed, excepting the property they carried about their
persons. Among the property burnt were some of the valuable carvings
belonging to the Duke of Rutland, which were deposited in one of the
warehouses, and on which an insurance to a large amount had been
effected in the Westminster Fire Office. The Duke of York, and several
of the nobility, visited the ruins, and set on foot a subscription for the
relief of those who had suffered loss or injury by the fire.
ST. PANCRAS.
/rn^t-i^actf.-
CESAR'S CAMP AT ST. PANCRAS,
From rt Drawing by DR. STUKELEY.
CHAPTER VIII.
ST. PANCRAS : EARLY HISTORY.
The Brill; Dr. Stukeley's theory of its having been a Roman camp — Defensive works in 1643. —
Pastoral character of the district. —Value of land. —The name St. Pancras. — Manors of
Cantelows (Kentish Town), Totenhall, Pancras, and Ruggemere. — King John's Palace.— The
Adam and Eve. — " The Paddington Drag."— The Pinder of Wakefield. —Battle Bridge and
King's Cross.
THE BRILL.
) PART of Somers Town is built upon the
site of some ancient earthworks formerly
known as " The Brill," the origin of which
name has, with great probability, been sup-
posed by Dr. Stukeley to be a contraction
of Bury Hill. The same learned anti-
quarian, who sometimes allowed his specu-
lations to be unduly influenced by his
imagination, supposed these earthworks to
be the remains of a Roman camp. He
wrote sixteen pages in folio upon this entrenchment,
which he expressly affirms to have been the camp of
Caesar. He supposes it to have extended five hundred
paces by four hundred, including a small moated site
to the south of the church, and another to the
north. " Quitting the language of conjecture," says
Lysons, " the doctor points out the disposition of the
troops, and the situation of each general's tent, with
as much confidence as if he had himself been in the
camp. Here was Caesar's praetorium ; here was stationed Mandubrace,
King of London ; here were the quarters of M. Crassus, the Quaestor ;
here was Cominius ; there the Gaulish princes, &c., &c. It is but
n6
ST. PANCRAS.
justice to Dr. Stukeley's memory to mention that this account of
Caesar's camp was not printed in his lifetime ; as he withheld it from
the public, it is probable he was convinced that his imagination had
carried him too far on this subject." Lysons remarks that probably
the moated areas above mentioned near the church were the sites of
the vicarage and rectory-house, a supposition which is extremely pro-
bable from the fact that indications of this moat remained until
comparatively recent times, and were doubtless sufficiently important to
arrest the attention of Dr. Stukeley in his day, who says that over
against the church, in the footpath on the west side of the brook, the
ditch was perfectly visible. " North of the church," adds Lysons, " was a
square, moated about, originally the residence of the English King, and
there Caesar made the British kings Cavselhan and Mundabrace, as good
friends as ever, the latter presenting Caesar with that famous corslet of
pearls which the Conqueror afterwards bestowed upon Venus in her
temple at Rome."
There is good reason for thinking that the earthworks at the Brill
were of great antiquity, although the evidence brought forward is not
sufficiently clear to determine in what age they were constructed. The
theory of their having been a Roman camp is, however, entirely exploded.
THE BRILL. 117
In 1643, when an attack upon London by the king's party seemed
imminent, the Parliament ordered that defensive works should be
constructed, and fortified lines were thrown up. "Many thousands of
men and women (good housekeepers)," says a contemporary account,
" their children, and servants, went out of the several parishes of
London with spades, shovels, pickaxes, and baskets, and drums and
colours before them, some of the chief men of every parish marching
before them, and so went into the fields, and worked hard all day in
digging and making up trenches, from fort to fort, wherebie to entrench
the citie round from one end to the other."
A fort, consisting of two batteries and a breastwork, for the
defence of London, was constructed upon that occasion in the grounds
of Southampton House, Bloomsbury ; and it is not improbable that the
works at the Brill were adapted for use for the same purpose.
Until about the year 1790, this locality was almost exclusively
pastoral, and, with the exception of a few houses near the " Mother
Redcap " at Camden Town, and the old church of St. Pancras, there was
nothing to intercept the view of the country from Queen Square and
the Foundling Hospital. The extraordinary change which has taken
place in the character of this neighbourhood during the last hundred
years is most remarkable, and it seems almost incredible that at a
period no longer ago than a hundred years, the crowded and busy
environs of King's Cross were absolutely rural, and lonely and secluded
to a dangerous degree.
The gradual rise in the value of property is also noteworthy. In
a will of 1588, the testator says, " I give and bequeath my estate
called Sandhills, consisting of a close of pasture, situate at the back
side of Holborn, in the parish of Pancras, and valued at £13 6s. 8d.
per annum, to the Company of Skinners, on behalf of my school at
Tonbridge, in Kent." One part only of this property (the whole of
which was valued at £13 6s. Sd.) was, on September 2gth, 1807,
leased to Mr. Burton for 99 years at £2,500. What its value may
be when that lease expires in 1906, it is not possible to estimate.
A trace of the Brill exists in the street which is known as Brill
Street, leading from Phrenix Street to Goldington Street.
In the Domesday Book this place was designated St. Pancras, a
n8 ST. PANCRAS.
name which it doubtless received from the name of the saint to whom
the church was dedicated. This circumstance renders it extremely
probable that the church was one of the most ancient institutions in
the parish, and that the houses have been built around it as time
went on.
MANOR OF CANTELOWS (KENTISH TOWN).
Two manors, besides that of Totenhall, are, in the Domesday Book,
described as being in the parish of St. Pancras. The canons of St.
Paul's, says that record, hold four hides at Pancras for a manor. The
land is of two carucates. The villans employ only one plough, but
might employ another. There is timber in the hedgerows ; pasture for
the cattle, and 2od. rents. Four villans hold this land under the canons,
and there are seven cottars. In the whole, valued at 405. ; in King
Edward's time at 6os. Lysons supposes this to have been the pre-
bendal manor of Kentish Town, or Cantelows. The name of Kaunteloe,
or de Kaunteloe, occurs in some of the most ancient court-rolls of the
manor of Totenhall. According to the survey taken by order of Parlia-
ment in 1649, the demesne lands consisted of about 210 acres. The
manor house was then sold to Richard Hill, merchant, of London, and
the manor (which had been demised to Philip King and George
Duncomb for three lives, all then surviving) to Richard Utber, draper.
After the Restoration, the lessees, or their representatives, were reinstated
in their property. About the year 1670 the lease came into the
possession of John Jeffreys, Esq., father of Sir Jeffrey Jeffreys, of Roe-
hampton, Alderman of London. By the intermarriage of Earl Camden
with Elizabeth, one of the daughters and co-heirs of Nicholas Jeffrey,
Esq., grandson of Sir John, it became vested in him in right of his
wife.
MANOR OF TOTENHALL.
The manor of Totenhall (from whence the modern name of Totten-
ham Court Road is derived) was described in the record of Domesday
as containing five hides. The land is of four carucates (says that
account), but only seven parts in eight are cultivated. There are four
villans and four Bordars, wood for 150 hogs, and 405. arising from the
herbage. In the whole valued at £4, in King Edward's time at £5.
MANOR OF PANCRAS. 119
This manor was formerly kept by the prebendary of Totenhall in his
own hands. In 1343, John de Carleton held a court baron as lessee,
and the prebendary the same year held a view of frank-plege. In the
year 1560, the manor of Totenhall, or Tottenham, was demised to
Queen Elizabeth for 99 years, in the name of Sir Robert Dudley.
In the year 1639, twenty years before the expiration of Queen
Elizabeth's term, a lease was granted to Charles I., in the name of
Sir Harry Vane, for three lives. In 1649, this manor being seized
as crown land, was sold to Ralph Harrison, Esq., of London,
for the sum of £3,318 35. lid. At the Restoration it reverted to the
Crown ; and in the year 1661, two of the lives in King Charles's
lease being surviving, it was granted by Charles II. in payment of a
debt to Sir Harry Wood, for the term of 41 years, if the said
survivors should live so long. After that the lease became the property
of Isabella Countess* of Arlington, from whom it was inherited by her
son, Charles Duke of Grafton. In 1768, the lease being then vested
in the Hon. Charles Fitzroy (afterwards Lord Southampton), an Act
of Parliament was passed by which the fee-simple of the manor
was invested in him subject to the payment of £300 per annum, in
lieu of the ancient reserved rent of £46, and all fines for renewals.
According to the survey of 1649, the demesne lands of this manor
comprised about 240 acres.
MANOR OF PANCRAS.
The third great manor into which the parish of St. Pancras was
anciently divided, consisting of the land near the old church and round
about Somers Town, was called Pancras Manor. When the great
survey of Domesday was taken, Walter, a Canon of St. Paul's, held
two hides of land in Pancras. The land in this manor (says that
record) is of one carucate, and employs one plough. On this estate
are 24 men, who pay a rent of 305. per annum. In the year 1375,
Joan, widow of Robert Lord Ferrers, of Chartley, died possessing an
estate, called the Manor of Pancras (held under the dean and chapter
of St. Paul's, by a rent of 30$.), being probably the same which
belonged to Walter the canon.
In the year 1381, the reversion, which belonged to the Crown, was
120 ST. PAXCRAS.
granted after the death of Sir Robert and his wife Custancia, to the
prior and convent of the house of Carthusian monks, built in honour
of the holy salutation.
RUGGEMERE.
This manor is mentioned in the survey of the parish in 1251, as
can be seen from the records of the Dean and Chapter at St. Paul's :
Norden also mentions it. Its exact situation, however, is not known.
Very possibly at the breaking up of the monasteries it reverted to the
crown, and was granted by Henry VIII. to some court favourite. The
property of the Bedford family was acquired in a great measure from that
monarch's hands. It is, therefore, very probable that the manor of
Ruggemere consisted of all that land lying at the south-east of the
parish, no portion of that district lying in either of the other manors.
Among the names of fields at Marylebone Farm, referred to at
PP- 5°'52 °f the present volume, was one " Rugg Moor," described as
having been in the possession of Mr. Richard Kendall. The name
resembles Ruggemere so closely that one feels inclined to enquire whether
it may not be in some way connected with that ancient manor.
KING JOHN'S PALACE.
The house at Tottenham Court, known as King John's Palace, was
of great antiquity, and had undergone many repairs and patchings up
previous to its demolition in 1808. The portion shown in the illustra-
tion made but a small part of the building, there being in front, at
about twenty yards distance, a house of thrice its dimensions, and of
as ancient a foundation, evidently connecting with this and making
part thereof. The interior seemed to have undergone no alteration
since the reign of Elizabeth or James I., and the oaken panels, about
twelve inches by eight in size, were neatly executed. There was a very
curiously carved mantel-piece of oak, much resembling that at the
" Pyed Bull,'' at Islington, formerly ^ the residence of the illustrious Sir
Walter Raleigh ; and several fragments of antique ornaments indicated
it to have been formerly a place of some consequence. The apartments
were more spacious than the appearance in the view would lead the
THE ADAM AXD EVE. 121
spectator to imagine, particularly in the back, where the rooms were
nearly double the size of those in front.
The tradition is that this was one of the palaces of King John,
and, later on, the residence of Oliver Cromwell.
At the extremity of the building, through the Gothic arch (see the
view) was a door, very rarely opened, that led by a gradual descent
to a subterraneous passage, traditionally said to lead to the old church
of St. Pancras, with which, in former times, it is said, this building
had a communication, although the two places were nearly a mile
apart. This subterraneous passage was the subject of conversation of
neighbours for many years before the demolition of the premises, and
several persons were led by curiosity to explore the passage, but few
had courage to venture a distance of more than twenty yards before
they turned back, resigning the task to others who might possess more
courage. A man named Price, a smith, who lived in the neighbour-
hood, was at length resolved to discover the termination of the passage,
if possible, and provided himself with a quantity of blazing links to
subdue the damps of the earth, as well as guide him in his way. He
returned, however, unsuccessful, but with the best account that had
hitherto been given of the obstructions that lay in the way. He pro-
ceeded, as far as he was able to judge, a distance of from thirty to
fort}7 yards with some difficulty, from the falling-in of the earth, but
was unable to proceed any farther by reason of a pool of water, which
entirely stopped any further progress.
THE ADAM AND EVE.
This celebrated inn was built upon the site of the ancient manor
house of Totenhall, and its walls were in fact portions of that house.
It was situated at the north-western extremity of Tottenham Court Road.
As early as the time of Henry III., the house, the property of
William de Tottenhall, was a mansion of eminence, and was probably the
court-house of the manor of the same name.
It was of course much later when the old mansion was turned into
an inn. Its situation, a little way out in the pleasant fields, doubtless
attracted many visitors and customers, especially on Sundays, when
freedom from work gave a little leisure for pleasure and wholesome
122
ST. PANCRAS.
recreation. There is a curious entry in the parish books of St. Giles-in-
the-Fields, to the following effect :—
" 1645. Recd of Mr. Bringhurst, constable, whch he had
of Mrs. Stacye's maid and others, for drinking at Tottenhall
court on the Sabbath daie xij(l apiece ... ... ... ... 35."
The building represented in the accompanying illustration formed but
a small part of the ancient mansion, and appears, indeed, to have been
only a part of the lodgings or offices appropriated to the use of the
domestics. In the year 1813 it was used as a sort of drinking parlour,
being detached from the dwelling of the " Adam and Eve " public-house
and wine-vaults, which were built on the site of the old manor-house
itself.
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The "Adam and Eve" is supposed to have acquired its sign from
the ancient mysteries ard moralities which were formerly exhibited in inn
yards,
"Those shows which once profaned the sacred page,
The barb'rous mysteries of our infant stage."
The house was for a long time celebrated for its tea gardens, which
were similar to those of the White Conduit House and Bagnigge Wells.
The grounds were extensive and convenient, and a part of them were
devoted to the uses of those who chose to play at skittles, Dutch-pins,
bumble-puppy, &c.
There were spacious gardens at the rear and at the sides, and a
fore-court, with large elm-trees, and tables and benches for out-door
"THE PADDINGTON DRAG." 123
customers, who preferred to smoke their pipes and enjoy the fresh air
from Marylebone Park in front of the road. Inside the gardens were
fruit-trees and bowers and arbours, with every accommodation for tea-
drinking parties. In the long-room there was an excellent organ, and it
was generally well attended, and the company respectable, until the last
few years in the eighteenth century ; but in consequence of the accumu-
lation of buildings in the neighbourhood, it became a place of more
promiscuous resort, and persons of the worst character and description
were in the constant habit of frequenting it ; highwaymen, footpads,
pickpockets, and common women, formed its leading visitants, and it
became so great a nuisance to the neighbourhood, that the magistrates
interfered, the organ was banished, the skittle-grounds destroyed, and the
gardens dug up for the foundation of Eden Street, which was built on
their site.
Hogarth has made the " Adam and Eve " the place of rendezvous
for the " March of the Guards to Finchley ; " and upon the sign-
board of the house is inscribed " Totenham Court Nursery, 1745,"
in allusion to the famous Broughton's Amphitheatre for boxing.
At the commencement of the present century there was only one
conveyance a day between Paddington and the City. This conveyance
was known as the " Paddington Drag," and called to take up passengers
at the " Adam and Eve," whose doors it passed twice a day. It was
driven by its proprietor, performing the journey in two hours and a
half quick time, returning to Paddington in the evening within three
hours of its leaving the City, which was considered fair time considering
the necessity for precaution against the accidents of night travelling.
We cannot do better than borrow the following extracts from some
most interesting communications published in Hone's Year Book (pp.
317-318): — "It may be recollected that the 'Paddington Drag' made
its way to the City, down the defile called Gray's Inn Lane, and gave
the passengers an opportunity for ' shopping,' by waiting an hour or
more at the Blue Posts, Holborn Bars. The route to the Bank, by
the way of the City Road, was then a thing unthought of; and the
Hampstead coachman who first achieved this daring feat was regarded
with admiration, somewhat akin to that bestowed on him who first
doubled the Cape in search of a passage to India.
124 ST. PAXCRAS.
" The spot which you recollect as a rural suburb, and which is
now surrounded on every side by streets and squares, was once
numbered among the common boundaries of a Cockney's Sunday walk.
George Wither, in his ' Britain's Remembrancer,' 1628, has this
passage :—
' Some by the bancks of Thames their pleasure taking ;
Some, sullibubs among the milkmaids making ;
With musique some, upon the waters rowing ;
Some to the next adjoyning hamlet going ;
And Hogsdone, Islington, and Tothnam-Court,
For cakes and creame, had then no small resort.' "
Further he says :—
"Those who did never travel, till of late,
Half way to Pancridge from the City gate."
Broome, in his " New Academy," 1658, Act 2, has this passage :—
' When shall we walk to Totnam, or crosse ore
The water ? or take coach to Kensington,
Or Paddington, or to some one or other
O' the City out-leaps, for an afternoon?1"
Another writer in Hone's Year Book (p. 318) says :—
" MR. HONE,
" Your brief notice of the Adam and Eve, Hampstead-road,
has awakened many a pleasant reminiscence of a suburb which
was the frequent haunt of my boyish days, and the scene of
some of the happiest hours of my existence at a more mature
age. But it has also kindled a very earnest desire for a more
particular inspection into the store-house of your memory, re-
specting this subject ; and it has occurred to me, that you could
scarcely fill a sheet or two of your Year Book with matter more
generally interesting, to the majority of your readers, than your
own recollection of the northern suburb of London would supply.
Few places afford more scope for pleasant writing, and for the
indulgence of personal feeling; for not many places have under-
gone, within the space of a few years, a more entire, and, to
me, scarcely pleasing, transmutation. I am almost afraid to
own that ' Mary-le-bone Park ' holds a dearer place in my
affections than its more splendid, but less rural successor.
When too I remember the lowly, but picturesque, old ' Queen's
Head and Artichoke,' with its long skittle, and ' bumble-puppy '
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BATTLE BRIDGE AND KING'S CROSS. 125
grounds, and the ' Jew's Harp,1 with its bowery tea-gardens,
I have little pleasure in the sight of the gin-shop-looking places
which now bear the names. Neither does the new ' Haymarket '
compensate me for the fields in which I made my earliest
studies of cattle, and once received from the sculptor, Nollekens,
an approving word, and pat on the head, as he returned from
his customary morning walk."
THE FINDER OF WAKEFIELD.
From the old inscription, dated 1660, upon a stone forming a portion
of old Bagnigge House, it appears that the Finder of Wakefield was a
public-house at that early date, and there is evidence that it was in
existence as early as the year 1577.
A pinder was the petty officer of a manor, whose duty it was to
impound all strange cattle straying upon the common land. Such cattle
were kept in bondage in the pound until they were claimed and the
expenses paid. It was the pinder's duty to attend to the wants of
impounded cattle during their period of detention.
In the year above-mentioned, 1577, this is said to have been the
only house of entertainment between Holborn and Highgate. It seems
as if the proprietor of Bagnigge House was concerned in the " Pinder,"
as he would scarcely have allowed a slab of stone to have remained
on the front of his house, pointing it out as a well-known place, unless
he had some interest in it.
Aubrey mentions that in the " spring after the conflagration at
London, all the ruins were overgrown with an herbe or two ; but
especially one with a yellow flower : and on the south side of St. Paul's
Church it grew as thick as could be ; nay, on the very top of the
tower. The herbalists call it Ericolevis Neapolitana, small bank cresses of
Naples ; which plant Tho. Willis (the famous physician) told me he
knew before but in one place about towne ; and that was at Battle
Bridge, by the Pindar of Wakefield, and that in no great quantity."
BATTLE BRIDGE AND KING'S CROSS.
Until about the year 1830 the locality now known as King's Cross
was called Battle Bridge, and the tradition is that this name was given
in consequence of it having been the site of the great battle in which
126 ST. PANCRAS.
Queen Boadicea played so prominent a part. The second portion of
the name was doubtless applied in allusion to the bridge in continuation
of Gray's Inn Road, which at that point crossed the river Holebourne or
Fleet.
King's Cross took its name from a structure which formerly stood in
the middle of the spot where several roads crossed at Battle Bridge. It
was of no great antiquity, and, indeed, was not a cross at all in the
proper meaning of the word. It was really a national monument, and
certainly it possessed no feature which could be called ecclesiastical.
It was erected by public subscription in the year 1830, in order to do
honour, as a contemporary circular announced, to " His Most Gracious
Majesty William the Fourth, his late Majesty George the Fourth, and the
preceding kings of the Royal House of Brunswick." The same circular
sets forth various reasons for the erection of this national memorial, as
follows : —
" A splendid monument is now erecting, by public sub-
scription, to be called King's Cross, in the centre of the six roads
uniting at Battle Bridge, in conformity to the model presented
and approved by the Right Honorable the Secretary of State for
the Home Department ; the honorable the Commissioners of the
Metropolitan Roads ; the Commissioners of the New Police ; and
the Nobility in general.
" The situation selected is, perhaps above all others, the most
appropriate for the purpose, from the many memorable events
that have occurred upon the spot, which the history of the country
will fully explain. Around it, Julius Caesar, with Marc Anthony
and Cicero, were in encampment for two years ; when the laws
and mandates issued by Caesar, tended in a great measure to
civilize the Ancient Britons.
" On the site was fought the Grand Battle, in which Queen
Boadicea so greatly signalised herself, from which emanated the
name of Battle Bridge.
" Near it was erected the famous Observatory of Oliver
Cromwell.
" From it commenced the original Roman North Road, and
Great Pass or Barrier, to the Metropolis, bounded by the River
Fleet.
ELEVATION OF KING'S CROSS, 1830.
KING'S CROSS.
" And even at the present day, the spot is eminently distin-
guished, as it forms the centre of the finest and most frequented
public road round the Metropolis.
" Description of King's Cross. — The Base or Lodge is of an
Octagonal form, and is ornamented by Eight Grecian Doric
Columns, two at each corner, supporting, above the Entablature,
the four late Kings of England, which will occupy the North-
West, South-West, South-East, and North-East Corners. From
the Cornice of the Columns rises a Bold Plinth and Subplinth
with a Balustrade. Between the opening over the Doors fronting
East and West, is a richly sculptured National Coat of Arms;
above is the station for the Illuminated Clock, fronting the
Paddington and Pentonville Roads ; the upper part forms the
Base of the rich Ornamental Grecian Pedestal, on which will be
placed the colossal statue of his Majesty, in full Robes. The
lower part will be splendidly Illuminated by Gas Lamps : the
whole forming not only an imposing ornament, but a protection
to the Public from danger in crossing the six roads uniting at
this spot.
" The Proprietors and others interested in the Estates sur-
rounding King's Cross, have already rendered liberal Subscriptions
in order to carry on the undertaking ; it is presumed that every
loyal subject will embrace this opportunity of evincing his
attachment to his late Majesty, and our present beloved Sovereign,
by subscribing in aid of the funds for the completion of King's
Cross.
" Each subscriber of One Guinea and under Five, will be pre-
sented with a Gilt Medal of the Cross ; and of Five Guineas and
upwards, with a Silver Medal, with his Name inscribed thereon.
" Subscriptions received at the Banking Houses of Messrs.
Robarts, Curtis, and Co., Lombard Street ; Messrs. Williams and
Co., Birchin Lane; Messrs. Coutts and Co., Strand; Sir Claude
Scott and Co., Cavendish Square ; at Sam's Royal Library, St.
James's Street; Messrs. Rushworth and Co., 12, Haymarket ; of
the Treasurer; and at the Office, n, Liverpool Street, King's
Cross.
" JOHN ROBSON, Esqr., Treasurer,
" Hamilton Place, New Road."
127
128
ST. PAXCRAS.
Tlierc is a little doubt as to whom it was intended to represent by
the four figures, as another account describes them as the effigies of St.
George of England, St. Patrick of Ireland, St. Andrew of Scotland, and
St. David of Wales. There is reason even to doubt whether the
figures were ever put up at all; for in a view of King's Cross, published
in the year 1836, the structure shewn is devoid of these appendages. It
is certain, however, that there was a colossal figure of George IV. upon
an ornamental Grecian pedestal.
The architectural features of King's Cross have been made the subject
of severe sarcasm by Pugin in his Contrasts; or a Parallel between the
Architecture of the i^th and igth Centuries. It is figured in one of the
plates of that work side by side with the beautiful Gothic cross of
Chichester. The architect of King's Cross was Mr. Stephen Geary.
King's Cross was not destined to stand for many years. It was in
the way ; and, to tell the truth, the public did not seem very much in love
with their bargain. In the year 1845 it was pulled down in connection
with some public improvements.
A contemporary newspaper, in commenting upon its demolition, says:
" The pennyworths of artistical information, doled out from week to week,
soon taught the people that the above was a very uncomplimentary effigy
of majesty ; even the very cabmen grew critical ; the watermen jeered ;
the omnibus drivers ridiculed royalty in so parlous a state ; at length
the statue was removed in toto, or rather in piecemeal.
" We cannot tax our memories with the uses to which the building
itself has been appropriated ; now a place of exhibition, then a police
station, and last of all (to come to the dregs of the subject), a beer-shop."
CHAPTER IX.
ST. PANCRAS: ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
The old Church of St. Pancras — Quaint description in 1593. — Antiquity of St. Pancras Church.
— French Refugees. — Benefactions to the church. — Renovation in 1848. — Altar Stone. —
Epitaphs. — Epigram in St Pancras Churchyard. — Anecdote of the Poet Chatterton.— The
New Church of St. Pancras. — St. James's Church, Hampstead Road. — Whitefield's
Tabernacle. — " Resurrection- Men " — Monuments. — Demolition of the Tabernacle, 1890. —
Presbyterian Church, Regent Square. — Catholic Apostolic Church, Gordon Square.
THE OLD CHURCH OF ST. PANCRAS.
HERE is some uncertainty about the date
when this church was built. A period
somewhere about the year 1350 has been
assigned to it ; but however that may be,
it is certain there was a church at
St. Pancras before that date, for in the
records belonging to the dean and chapter
of St. Paul's there is a notice of a
visitation made to this church in 1251.
It states that it had a very small tower, a little
belfry, a good stone font for baptisms, and a small
marble stone to carry the pax.
The following quaint description of the church of
St. Pancras is taken from John Norden's Speculum
Britannia, 1593 : —
" Pancras Church standeth all alone as utterly
forsaken, old, and weatherbeaten, which for the
antiquitie thereof, it is thought not to yield to Paules
in London; about this Church have bin manie
buildings, now decaied, leaving poore Pancras without
companie or comfort ; yet it is now and then visited
with Kentish towne and Highgate which are members
130
ST. PANCRAS.
thereof; but they seldome come there, for that they have chappels of
ease within themselves, but when there is a corps to be interred, they
are forced to leave the same in this forsaken church or churchyard,
where (no doubt) it resteth as secure against the day of resurrection
as if it laie in stately Panics.
" Pancras as desolate as it standeth is not forsaken of all ; a prebend
of Panics accepteth it in right of his office."
The list of the prebends of St. Pancras includes the eminent
names of Paley and William Sherlock.
\> %}>,
SHt**
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17SO.
Lysons describes it as a church " of Gothic architecture, built of
stones and flints, which are now covered with plaster. It is certainly
not older than the I4th century, perhaps in Norden's time it had the
appearance of great decay ; the same building, nevertheless, repaired from
time to time, still remains ; looks no longer ' old and weatherbeaten,'
and may exist perhaps to be spoken of by some antiquary of a future
century."
The church was probably of Gothic style originally, but it had
been patched up so often, in so many ways, and with such a variety
of materials, that it had lost all its original architectural features.
ST. PANCRAS OLD CHURCH. 131
A writer in the Builder (of February 4th, 1888) says : — " This little
church, standing against Pancras-road, and northwards of its ancient
burial ground, presents externally but few indications of its venerable
history. The existing fabric indeed dates from the end of the twelfth
century. In 1848, the old tower was pulled down, when its stones
were used for recasing the body of the church, which at the same
time was repaired and enlarged by Mr. A. D. Gough and Mr. Roumieu
in the Anglo-Norman manner. That was the precursor of the very
small tower and little belfry, which are described in a schedule of the
visitation made hither in 1251, whereof a record is preserved in the
archives of St. Paul's. Norden, writing in 1593, claims for the church
an antiquity rivalling, if not excelling, that of St. Paul's itself.
" There can be no question that Saint Pancras-in-the-Fields yields
to very few churches in our country as touching the antiquity of its
foundation. Some would connect its dedication to the Phrygian boy-
martyr, with a cherished memory of the three Pagan boys, captives
from Ella's northern province of Deira, whose fair beauty and slavedom
excited the pity of Gregory the Great when yet a monk of St. Andrew's
convent on the Crelian Mount at Rome. Pancratius was the patron
saint in particular of children. His name was taken for the place of
his burial, — the Calepodian Cemetery in Rome. There the church of
S. Pancrazio, behind the Vatican, marks the scene of his sufferings
and death under Diocletian, in the year 304. ... A long-lived
tradition avers that here, on the site of this little church in London,
hard by the shore of the Fleet, was raised the first altar to Christ in
Britain, that is to say, anterior to the Saxon Invasion. This cannot
now be either contradicted or confirmed."
The exact date when St. Pancras became a parish, with defined
boundaries, has not been ascertained.
Weever, in his Funerall Monuments, speaks of a wondrous ancient
monument in this church, by tradition said to belong to the family
of Gray, of Gray's Inn. " If it be that which now remains in the
north wall of the chancel," says Lysons, " I should suppose it not to
to be older than the year 1500. It is of purbeck marble, and has an
elliptical arch ornamented with quatrefoils. No inscription or arms
remain." Weever mentions also the tomb of Robert Eve, and
132 ST. PANCRAS.
Laurentia his sister, daughter of Francis, son of Thomas Eve, clerk
of the crown. The family of Eve, or Ive, were of great antiquity
in this parish. In the year 1458, King Henry VI. granted leave to
Thomas Ive to enclose a portion of the highway adjoining his mansion
at Kentessetonne. Richard Ive, about the middle of the last century,
had the manor of Toppesfield, in the parish of Hornsey, and died
without male issue.
The church and churchyard of St. Pancras were for many years
noted as the burial place of such Roman Catholics as died in London
and its vicinity. The reason assigned for this preference for St. Pancras
Church as a burial place was that masses were said in a church in
the south of France, dedicated to the same saint, for the souls of the
deceased interred at St. Pancras in England.
Some persons aver that at St. Pancras Church mass was sung since
the Reformation ; others claim unusual sanctity for a spot where a few
Roman Catholics are supposed to have been burnt in Queen Elizabeth's
day, — the martyrs whose recollection evoked the prayers of Dr. Johnson
as he twice passed the church when out walking with Dr. Brocklesby.
Since the French Revolution, a large number of clergy, and other
refugees, some of them of high rank, made their residence at
St. Pancras. It has been computed that on the average thirty,
probably of the French clergy, were annually buried at St. Pancras
in the early part of the present century. In 1801, the number of
French refugees buried there was 41 ; in 1802, 32.
This circumstance may account for the burial of many Roman
Catholics there, but according to a note in Croker's edition of Boswell's
Life of Dr. Johnson, the Roman Catholics are prejudiced in favour of St.
Pancras for some reason or other which has not yet been explained,
just as is the case with respect to other places of burial in various
parts of the kingdom.
The rectory of St. Pancras was valued at thirteen marks per
annum in 1327. It appears, by the visitation of the church in 1251,
that the vicar had all the small tithes, a pension of £5 per annum
out of the great tithes, four acres of glebe, and a vicarage house near
the church.
Richard Cloudesley of Islington, by will, dated I3th January, 1517,
ST. PANCRAS OLD CHURCH. 133
gave as follows : — " Item — I give and bequeath to the Church of St.
Pancras, two torches, price xivd., and two poor men of the same
parish two gowns, price the piece vis. viiid. Item — I give and bequeath
to the priest of the church aforesaid xxd., to ye intent yt he shall
pray for me by name openly in his church every Sunday, and to pray
his parishioners to pray for me and forgive me, as I forgive them and
all the world."
From the certificates of the commissioners for dissolving colleges and
chantries, in the first year of the reign of Edward VI., it appears that
John Morrant gave unto the parson and churchwardens of St. Pancras,
for the intent that they should keep an obit yearly, for ever, four acres of
meadow land, called Kilbornecroft, valued in 1547 at sixteen shillings per
annum, whereof, at the obit, the sum of twelve shillings was to be given
to the priest, and four shillings to the poor in recreation.
In the inventory of the ornaments, bells, &c., belonging to the parish
church of St. Pancras-in-the-Fields, made in the time of Edward VI.,
mention is made of "a hearse cloth of sattyn of Brydges, and four
standards for the hearse of latten."
Phillis Oldernshaw, wife of William Oldernshaw, gentleman, of Toten-
hall Court, in this parish, gave on the gth of February, 1627, a black
cloth for ever, to be laid on the poor deceased people of this parish,
without fee, and all others to pay for the use of it to the churchwardens.
Mrs. Rose Knightly, of Green Street, Kentish Town, gave on the
25th of September, 1632, to this parish for ever, a fair gilt plate, to be
only used for the bread at the Holy Sacrament, in the same parish.
Before the renovation of 1848, the church contained no galleries, and
was capable of accommodating not more than about one hundred and
twenty persons. It was usual formerly to perform service in this church
only on the first Sunday in each month ; on other Sundays in Kentish
Town Chapel.
By the enlargement and reconstruction of the church in the year
1848, as above mentioned, sitting room was provided for about five
hundred persons. The exterior wras entirely faced with ragstone, prin-
cipally obtained in rough unhewn masses from the old tower, which was
removed to effect an elongation of the church, so that no new stone of
this description was required ; but the old stone which had existed for
i34 ST. PANCRAS.
many centuries in the fabric was re-worked and re-applied to the entire
casing of the structure throughout.
The arrangement of the church, as then restored, consists of an
elongation westward ; a new tower occupying a central position on the
south side of that part which constituted the old church ; and a stair
turret in a corresponding position in that, which was entirely new. The
west front and tower were the main features of the structure. The internal
fittings were those of the old structure, retained, altered, and adapted to
the new church. The oak carvings of Gibbon's time were preserved
and applied, the whole being treated as the furniture of the church
rather than as part of the structure itself.
The windows of the chancel are filled with stained glass. The east
window consists of three compartments, the subjects being the crucifixion
in the centre, and effigies of St. Peter and St. Paul on either side ; and
in the windows of the north and south side of the chancel are repre-
sentations of the conversion of St. Paul, and his appearance before
Agrippa. The small circular windows have the emblem of the Trinity,
the Agnus Dei, and the Alpha and Omega. The large wheel window in
the west front is also filled with stained glass.
An old altar-stone, found during the progress of the works, has been
preserved and inlaid, and placed in position so as to be slightly raised
above the chancel flooring. The many sepulchral monuments have been
carefully restored and refixed as nearly as possible in their original
positions.
In the year 1850 the churchyard was closed by Act of Parliament.
In 1868 the Midland Railway Company made a cutting through the
churchyard and a viaduct over.
The tombs in and around old St. Pancras Church in many cases bear
most interesting inscriptions, but it will be impossible to give more than
a small selection in this place. Nothing more than that is desirable
either, as a large number of the inscriptions were brought together by
Frederick Teague Cansick, and printed in the years 1869 and 1872.
The first inscription quoted is in black letter, and reads as follows : —
" At this pues end here lyeth buryed MARYE BERESFORD,
the daughter of Alexander Elonore, of Tottenham
ST. PA NCR AS OLD CHURCH. 135
Courte and the late dear and wellbeloved wife of John
Beresford gentleman and ouster barester of Staple
Inne who departed this life the xxi. day of August in
the year of our Lorde God 1588 ; whose soul is with
God for she trusted in the Lorde and reposed her salva-
tion wholye in Jesus Christ in whom is all peace and
rest all joye and consolation all felicitye and salvation
and in whom are all the promises. Yea and amen."
"MARY WOLLSTONECRAFT GODWIN,
Author of
A Vindication
of the Rights of Woman.
Born 27th of April, 1759:
Died loth of September, 1797."
"WILLIAM WOOLLETT,
Engraver to His Majesty,
was born at
Maidstone in Kent,
upon the i5th of August,
MDCCXXXV.
He died the 23rd and
was interred in this place
on the 28th Day of May,
MDCCLXXXV.
ELIZABETH WOOLLETT, Widow of the above,
Died December the i5th, 1819.
Aged 73 years."
On this tombstone were formerly written with a pencil the following
lines, which have long since been defaced : —
" Here Woollett rests expecting to be sav'd,
He graved well, but is not well engrav'd."
It has been suggested as not improbable that these lines gave rise
to a subscription for erecting a monument in Westminster Abbey to
136 ST. PANCRAS.
Woollett's memory, and to which Benjamin West, P.R.A., and Alderman
Boydell were liberal contributors. The monument was placed in the
cloisters of the Abbey.
" Here lie the remains of MR. JOHN WALKER, author of the
Pronouncing Dictionary of the English Language, and other
valuable works on Grammar and Elocution, of which he was
for many years a very distinguished Professor. He closed a
life devoted to piety and virtue on the first of August, 1807,
aged 75.
" Also in the same grave are interred the remains of Sybylla
Walker, wife of the above John Walker, who died on the 2gth
of April, 1802, aged 79. I cling to the foot of the Cross."
" Underneathe thys stone doth lye
The Body of Mr. Humphrie
Jones, who was of late
By Trade a plate-
Worker in Barbicanne ;
Well known to be a good manne
By all his Friends and Neighbours toe
And paid every bodie their due.
He died in the year 1737
Aug. 4th, aged 80, his soule we hope's in heaven."
EPIGRAM IN ST. PANCRAS CHURCHYARD.
The following epigram, said to be in St. Pancras Churchyard, is
copied from Samuel Palmer's History of St. Pancras: —
Thro' Pancras Church-yard as two Taylors were walking,
Of trade, news, and politics earnestly talking,
Says one, "These fine rains," and looking around,
"Will bring all things charmingly out of the ground."
"Marry, Heaven forbid!" says the other, "for here
I buried two wives without shedding a tear."
A curious anecdote is told of Chatterton, the poet, who was amusing
himself one day, in company with a friend, by reading epitaphs in
St. Pancras Churchyard. He was so much absorbed in thought as he
walked along, that, not perceiving an open grave in his way just dug,
he tumbled into it. His companion, observing his situation, ran to
ST. PANCRAS NEW CHURCH. 137
his assistance, and as he helped him out, told him in a jocular
manner, he was happy in assisting at the resurrection of genius. Poor
Chatterton smiled, and, taking his friend by the arm, replied, " My
dear friend, I feel the sting of a speedy dissolution. I have been at
war with the grave some time, and find it not so easy to vanquish as
I imagined ; we can find an asylum from every creditor but that."
Three days afterwards the neglected and disconsolate youth
committed suicide by poison.
THE NEW CHURCH OF ST. PANCRAS.
The Duke of York laid the foundation stone of the new Church of
St. Pancras on the ist of July, 1819 ; and in April, 1822, the Bishop of
London consecrated it. It was built, from the designs of Mr. William
Inwood, in imitation of the Erechtheium at Athens, and it is said
to have been the first place of Christian worship erected in Great
Britain in the strict Grecian style. The steeple, upwards of 160
feet in height, is from an Athenian model, the Temple of the Winds,
built by Pericles ; it is, however, surmounted by a cross in lieu of the
Triton and his wand, the symbols of the winds, in the original. There
is a very fine portico of six columns at the west end of the church.
Towards the east end are lateral porticoes, each supported by colossal
female statues on a plinth, in which are entrances to the catacombs
beneath the church. Each of the figures bears an ewer in one hand,
and rests the other on an inverted torch, the emblem of death. These
figures are composed of terra-cotta, formed in pieces, and cemented round
cast-iron pillars, which in reality support the entablatures.
The eastern end of the church differs from the ancient temple in
having a semi-circular, or apsidal termination, around which, and along
the sides, are terra-cotta imitations of Greek tiles.
The interior of the church is in keeping with its exterior. The
pulpit and reading desk were made of the celebrated " Fairlop oak," which
formerly stood in Hainault Forest, Essex, and gave its name to the fair
at Easter-tide long held beneath its branches. Gilpin mentions this tree
in his Forest Scenery. " The tradition of the country," he says, " traces
it half way up the Christian era." The old oak tree was blown down
in 1820,
i38 ST. PANCRAS.
ST. JAMES'S CHURCH, HAMPSTEAD ROAD.
In or about the year 1792, St. James's Chapel was built upon the
eastern side of Hampstead Road, and an adjoining cemetery in connection
with it was formed about the same time. Both chapel and cemetery
were, by Act of Parliament, made to belong to the parish of St. James,
Westminster.
Among the celebrated persons buried in the cemetery attached to St.
James's Chapel were the celebrated fanatic, Lord George Gordon, 1797 ;
Matthias Tomick, of Broad Street, Carnaby Market, seven feet ten
inches in height, who died at the age of 66, of a decline, in 1794 ; Dr.
Rowley, the physician ; Count de Welderen, many years ambassador
to this country from the Hague ; John Hoppner, the portrait painter ;
George Morland, a skilful painter who was particularly happy in his
representations of rural nature and animals ; Dr. Dickson, Bishop of
Down ; and many others.
WHITEFIELD'S TABERNACLE.
In 1741 the friends of Rev. George Whitefield, the eminent Calvinist
preacher, procured a piece of ground close to Wesley's Foundry, and
employed a carpenter to build a large temporary shed to screen his
Moorfields congregations from the cold and rain. For twelve years this
wooden shed served as Whitefield's metropolitan church. In 1753 it was
superseded by the erection, on the same site, of the substantial brick
building which, for more than a hundred years, was used by Whitefield's
successors.
In the year 1756, Whitefield set about collecting funds for a proposed
new chapel in Tottenham Court Road, upon a site which at that time
was surrounded by fields and gardens. On the north side of it there
were but two houses, and the next after them, half a mile further, was
the " Adam and Eve " public house. The chapel, when first erected,
was seventy feet square within the walls. Over the door were the arms
of Whitefield. Two years after it was opened, twelve almshouses and a
minister's house were added. The inhabitants of the almshouses were
allowed 35. weekly, and candles, out of the sacramental collections at the
WHITEFIELD' S TABERNACLE. 139
chapel. About a year after that, the chapel was found to be too small,
and it was enlarged to the size of a hundred and twenty-seven feet long,
and seventy feet broad, with a dome a hundred and fourteen feet in
height. Beneath it were vaults for the burial of the dead, in which
Whitefield intended that himself and his friends, John and Charles Wesley,
should be buried. " I have prepared a vault in this chapel," Whitefield
used to say to his somewhat bigotted congregation, " where I intend to
be buried, and Messrs. John and Charles Wesley shall also be buried
there. We will all lie together. You will not let them enter your
chapel while they are alive ; they can do you no harm when they are
dead."
The lease of the ground was granted to Whitefield by General George
Fitzroy, and on its expiration in 1828, the freehold was purchased for
£14,000.
The foundation stone of the chapel was laid in the beginning of June,
1756, upon which occasion Whitefield preached. Among those who
attended the service were the Rev. Thomas Gibbons ; Dr. Andrew
Giffard, Assistant- Librarian of the British Museum; and the Rev. Benjamin
Grosvenor, D.D., for many years the pastor of the Presbyterian congrega-
tion in Crosby Square, and who, after preaching in London for half a
century, had recently retired into private life.
On the 7th of November, 1756, the new chapel was opened, and
Whitefield again preached a sermon.
Among the distinguished preachers who, in olden days, occupied the
pulpit at Whitefield's Tabernacle, were : — Dr. Peckwell, De Courcy,
Berridge, Walter Shirley, Piercy (chaplain to General Washington),
Rowland Hill, Torial Joss, West, Kinsman, Beck, Medley, Edward
Parsons, Matthew Wilks, Joel Knight, John Hyatt, and many others.
Tottenham Court Road Chapel has a history which is, indeed, well
worthy of being written. From this venerable sanctuary sprang separate
congregations in Shepherd's Market, Kentish Town, Paddington, Tonbridge
Chapel, Robert Street, Crown Street, and Craven Chapel.
The following account is given of the discovery of "resurrection-
men " at WThitefield's Tabernacle : —
" It appears that on Friday, March 13, 1798, the watchman on
going his round perceived a hackney coach waiting near the chapel,
i4o ST. PANCRAS.
and he at once concluded that some resurrection-men were at work in
the burial ground. Acting on this supposition he gave notice to one of
the patrols, who, going to the spot, saw three men in conversation with
the coachman, but who, on his approach, decamped. He, however,
secured the coachman, and, on searching the coach, discovered the body
of a male child wrapt up in a cloth. He then went to examine the
burying ground, when, finding several graves open, he went to the
sexton's house, which adjoined the ground, but found that he had gone
to stay at Westminster.
" At daylight a further search took place, when eight other bodies
(four women, three children, and one man) were found tied up in sacks
for removal. The coachman, whose name was John Peake, was brought
before the magistrate at Bow Street on the following morning, and,
after the parties had identified the bodies, the magistrate proceeded to
examine the prisoner.
" He said, in his defence, that about three o'clock he was called
off the stand near the Hatton Street end of Holborn by three men,
who ordered him to drive to Pitt Street, Tottenham Court Road, and
there, getting out, desired him to wait for him near the Chapel.
That one of them continued by the coach the whole time, but he
denied seeing anything put into the coach, or even that the doors were
opened after the men first got out. The sexton was then examined,
but nothing could be collected from him, he having slept from home
that night. After considerable investigation, it at length came out that
the prisoner was well known as connected with resurrection-men, that
he was nick-named ' Lousy Jack,' and had been implicated in the
robbery at Hampstead Churchyard.
" There had been six funerals on that afternoon, and the whole of
the bodies were in the sacks. Among them was a woman, who, dying
in her lying-in, was interred with her infant. The greatest scene of
distress was exhibited round the Chapel by the relatives of those who
had lately been buried in that ground."
The chapel contained memorials, among others, to the following: —
Mason Jenkin, limner, 1758 ; Matthew Pearce, builder of the chapel, 1775 ;
Rev. A. M. Toplady, aged 38, 1778 ; Anna Cecilia, daughter of Chris-
topher Rhodes, Esq., of Chatham (a monument by Bacon, with a
WHITEFIELD'S TABERNACLE. 141
bas relief of the woman touching the hem of the Saviour's garment), 1796 ;
John Bacon, R.A., 1797, with the following inscription : —
" Near this place lies John Bacon, R.A., sculptor, who died
Aug. 7, 1799, aged 59 years, and left the following inscription for
this tablet, ' What I was as an artist seemed to me of some
importance, while I lived, but what I really was, as a believer in
Christ Jesus, is the only thing of importance to me now.' "
There were also monuments for Elizabeth, wife of John Bacon, R.A.,
who died in 1782 ; and for Samuel Foyster, Esq., one of the trustees of
the chapel, 1805.
It is a somewhat remarkable circumstance that neither John nor
Charles Wesley, nor Whitefield himself, were buried at Tottenham Court
Road Chapel, according to Whitefield's intention. Whitefield's wife,
however, was buried there, and is commemorated by the following
inscription : —
" In memory of Mrs. Elizabeth Whitefield, aged 62, who,
after upwards of thirty years' Strong and frequent manifestations
of a Redeemer's love and as Strong and frequent strugglings with
the buffettings of Satan, Bodily Sicknesses, and the remains of
indwelling Sin, finished her course with joy, August gth, Anno
Domini 1768.
" Also to the Memory of the Revd. Mr. George Whitefield,
A.M., late Chaplain to the Right Honourable the Countess ot
Huntingdon, whose Soul made meet for glory was taken to
Imanuel's Bosom the 3oth of Sept., 1770, and whose Body now
lies in the silent grave at Newbury Port, near Boston, in New
England, there deposited in sure and certain hope of a joyful!
Resurrection to Eternal life and Glory.
" He was a man Eminent for Piety, of an Humane, Benevo-
lent and Charitable Disposition. His zeal in the Cause of God
was Singular ; His labours indefatigable, and his success in
preaching the gospell remarkable and astonishing. He departed
this life in the 56th year of his Age.
" And, like his Master, was by some despis'd,
Like him by many others lov'd and priz'd ;
But their's shall be the everlasting crown,
Not whom the world, but Jesus Christ shall own."
I42 ST. PANCRAS.
In consequence of the insecure nature of the foundations, the entire
structure of Whitefield's Tabernacle had to be taken down in the year
1890. Preparations are now being made for the rebuilding of the chapel.
PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, REGENT SQUARE.
The foundation-stone of this church was laid in October, 1824, by
the Earl of Breadalbane, who acted in the capacity of proxy for the
Duke of Clarence, whose indisposition prevented him laying the stone
in person. The Regent Square Church was erected in consequence of
the Caledonian Church in Hatton Garden being too small for the large
congregations who assembled to hear the eloquent preacher, Rev. Edward
Irving.
The building was completed in 1827, and opened according to
the manner of the National Scotch Presbyterian Church. It cost over
£25,000 ; was built to accommodate about three thousand persons ; and
for many years had Mr. Irving for its minister.
CATHOLIC APOSTOLIC CHURCH, GORDON SQUARE.
The members of the Catholic Apostolic Church, often called Irvingites
in allusion to their founder, Rev. Edward Irving, seem to have consisted
originally of the bulk of the congregation attending Regent Square
Presbyterian Church, who accompanied Irving when he was expelled
from the Scottish Church in 1833. A building in Newman Street,
formerly the studio of Benjamin West, P.R.A., was taken by the new sect
soon after that date.
For the service of the church a comprehensive book of liturgies
and offices was provided by the "apostles;" and lights, incense, vest-
ments, holy oil, water, chrism, and other adjuncts of worship have
been appointed by their authority.
Each congregation in the Catholic Apostolic Church is presided over
by its "angel" or bishop (who ranks as pastor in the Universal Church);
under him are four-and-twenty priests, divided into four ministries of
" elders, prophets, evangelists, and pastors," and with these are the
deacons, seven of whom regulate the temporal affairs of the church —
besides whom there are also " sub-deacons, acolytes, singers, and door-
keepers."
CATHOLIC APOSTOLIC CHURCH.
143
The fine church in Gordon Square is the Metropolitan Church or
Cathedral of the Catholic Apostolic Church. It was built about the
year 1853, from the designs of Mr. R. Brandon and Mr. Ritchie.
The exterior is of Early English design, and the decorated interior
has a triforium in the aisle-roof, after the manner of our early churches
and cathedrals. The ceilings are highly enriched, and some of the
windows are filled with stained glass. The northern doorway and porch
and the southern wheel-window, are very fine. A beautiful side chapel,
called a " Lady Chapel," has been added on the south.
CHAPTER X.
SPRINGS AND WELLS OF ST. PANCRAS.
Lamb's Conduit.— William Lamb.— Public rejoicings —The Lamb Public House.— The River
Holebourne. — Black Mary's Hole. — Bagnigge Wells. — The Finder of Wakefield. — Nell
Gwynne. — Properties of the waters. — Bagnigge Wells Tea-gardens. — " The Bagnigge
Organfist."— Pancras Wells —The Adam and Eve, Pancras.— St. Chad's Well.— Portrait of
St. Chad.— Tottenham Court Fair.— Smock Race.
LAMB'S CONDUIT.
AMB'S CONDUIT was situated above the
north end of Red Lion Street, Holborn,
and was celebrated for the abundance of
water, clear as crystal, and suitable for
drinking purposes, which it afforded.
" The Fountain Head," says the writer
of the New View of London, " is under
a stone marked S. P. P., in the vacant
Ground a little Southward of Ormond
Street, whence the Water comes in a Drein to this
Conduit, and it runs thence in Lead Pipes to the
Conduit on Snow Hill, which has the figure of a Lamb
on it, denoting that its Water come from Lamb's Conduit."
It was erected for the use of Londoners by a
gentleman of the riame of William Lamb, of whom,
notwithstanding his munificence, but little of his history
is known at the present day. In addition to the erection
of this conduit, he endowed a chapel in the City, which
was destroyed at the great fire of London.
When the New River Company commenced to supply
the metropolis with water, the conduit pipes got neglected and stopped up,
and the water ceased to run to Snow Hill, though it was still useful
LAMB'S CONDUIT. 145
to the inhabitants in the neighbourhood of the streets to the north
of Holborn. The stone at the source of the conduit itself was taken
down at the time of the erection of the Foundling Hospital, and the
water caused to run a little more to the east, from whence, for a
long time, the inhabitants had access to the spring. The supplies of the
pumps in Mecklenberg and Brunswick Squares are derived from the
springs which supplied Lamb's Conduit.
In the year 1800 access to the water was gained by means of steps
descending to the pipe whence it issued. The following inscription was
placed upon a part of the Conduit : —
" On this spot stood the Conduit,
Commonly called and known
By the name of Lamb's Conduit,
The Property of the City of London ;
Which was rebuilt in the year MDCCXLVI.,
At the request of the Governor and Guardians
Of the Hospital for the maintenance
And education of exposed and deserted
Young Children.
In order to lay the way
And make the same more commodious ;
The waters thereof are still preserved,
And continued for the public emolument,
By building an arch over the same ;
And this compartment is erected
To preserve the City's right and interest
In the said ground, water, and springs."
Upon certain occasions of public rejoicing, Lamb's Conduit, like
many other conduits in London, was made to flow with wine instead
of water. A hogshead of wine was put in communication with the
conduit and allowed to run out, but the aperture from which the
people filled their vessels is said to have been never larger than that
of a straw, so that this apparent prodigality was regulated upon strictly
economical principles, and the flow of wine was made to last a long
time.
K
146 ST. PANCRAS.
The sign of the Lamb public-house at the north-eastern end of
Lamb's Conduit Street was the effigy of a lamb cut in stone, which
was believed to have been one of the figures which stood upon Lamb's
Conduit, as a rebus upon the name of William Lamb.
The fields around Lamb's Conduit formed a favourite promenade
on a summer's evening for the inhabitants of St. Andrew's, Holborn,
and St. Giles's. William Wycherley alludes to them in his Love in a Wood,
or St. James's Park (1672). They were first curtailed in 1714, by the
formation of a new burying-ground for the parish of St. George's,
Bloomsbury, and again in 1739, by the erection of the Foundling
Hospital.
THE RIVER HOLEBOURNE.
Among the rivers which formerly supplied London with water, the
Holebourne occupied an important place. As we have already said in an
earlier chapter in this volume (p. 10), this stream arose in and around the
ponds at Hampstead and Highgate, and flowed through Kentish Town,
Camden Town, Somers Town, Battle Bridge, Farringdon Road, Farringdon
Street, and into the Thames at the point where Blackfriars Bridge now is.
" Holebourne " is the ancient form of the name, and Holborn is a
corruption of it. Throughout its course its physical character justified
its name. It was strictly the brook or bourne in the hole or hollow.
It was also called "Turnmill Brook," "The River of Wells," and "The
River Fleet." But the term " fleet," as Mr. J. G. Waller has pointed
out, could only be properly applied where it was influenced by the tidal
flow of the Thames. A "fleet" is a channel covered with shallow water
at high tide, and frequent examples of the use of the term are to be
found in the names of places upon the banks of the Thames and the
Medway.
The designation, "The River of Wells," was an appropriate name for
the Holebourne, which received the waters of Clerkenwell, Skinners-well,
Fags-well, Tode-well, Loders-well, and Rad-well.
The Holebourne received a small stream a little north of Battle
Bridge arising from some springs near Tottenham Court Road. At
Battle Bridge, the stream, which ran along the south side of the road,
frequently overflowed, and at times the inundations were so serious as
to occasion much loss to the dwellers in the neighbourhood. Just about
THE RIVER HOLEBOURNE. 147
this locality there was but little fall in the ground, and the spring moved
sluggishly, spreading itself out as it bent round the end of Gray's Inn
Road, which was here carried over the bridge which gave name to the
locality.
There was a serious inundation in January, 1809, which is thus
related in Nelson's Islington : — " At this period, when the snow was lying
very deep, a rapid thaw come on, and, the arches not affording a
sufficient passage for the increased current, the whole space between
Pancras, Somers Town, and the bottom of the hill at Pentonville, was
in a short time covered with water. The flood rose to the height of
three feet in the middle of the highway, the lower rooms of all the
houses within that space were completely inundated, and the inhabitants
sustained considerable damage in their goods and furniture, which many
of them had not time to remove. Two cart-horses were drowned, and
for several days persons were obliged to be conveyed to and from their
houses, and receive their provisions in at the windows, by means of
carts."
It appears that this stream in the neighbourhood of Bagnigge Wells,
through the gardens of which it flowed, was sometimes known as
Bagnigge River. It is recorded that, in 1761, on " Saturday night the
waters were so high at 'Black Mary's Hole,' that the inhabitants of
Bagnigge Wells and in the neighbourhood suffered greatly. About seven
o'clock a coach, with five gentlemen within, and three on the outside,
was overturned by the height of the water in the road just by, and
with great difficulty escaped being drowned."
Black Mary's Hole was the name applied to a very few small
houses at Bagnigge Wash, the origin of which is thus described. The
land here was called Bagnigge Wash, from the River Bagnigge, which
passed through it, and subsequently people resorting thither to drink
the waters of the conduit, which was then leased to one Mary, who
kept a black cow, whose milk was drunk with the waters of the conduit ;
the wits of that age used to say, " Come, let us go to Black Mary's
Hole." However, Mary dying, and the place degenerating into licen-
tiousness, about 1687, Walter Baynes, Esq., of the Inner Temple,
enclosed the conduit, which is said to have had the appearance of a
great oven. He is supposed to have left a fund for keeping the same
148 ST. PANCRAS.
in perpetual repair. The stone with the inscription was carried away
during the night.
There was a tradition that the name Black Mary's Hole was a
corruption of Blessed Mary's Well — a highly probable explanation.
In April, 1756, a newspaper states: — A few days since the water
was so deep in Pancras Wash as to drown a horse which fell into the
same with a load on his back."
BAGNIGGE WELLS.
The Hole-bourne, or Fleet River, was locally called the " River
Bagnigge," and hence a well near at hand was called " Bagnigge Wells,"
and ultimately there arose Bagnigge Tea Gardens. The name Bagnigge
is derived from that of a family to whom the property belonged in the
1 7th century. It is supposed, with some degree of probability, that
the house originally called " Bagnigge House " was a country residence
of Nell Gwynne, the celebrated mistress of Charles II. In some ancient
deeds, the ground where this house stood is called Bagnigge Vale. On
a square stone, over an old Gothic portal taken down about the year
1763, and afterwards replaced over the door from the high road to the
house, was cut the following inscription : —
t
S. T.
THIS IS BAGNIGGE
HOUSE NEARE
THE FINDER A
WAKEFIELDE
1680.
Over one of the chimney-pieces was the garter of the Order of St.
George in raised work ; and over another, the royal arms on one side,
and on the other side the same arms joined with several more.
Between them was the bust of a woman in Roman costume, " let deep
into a circular cavity of the wall, bordered with festoons of delf earth,
in the natural colours, and glazed. It is said to represent Mrs. Eleanor
Gwin, a favourite of Charles the Second, who sometimes made this
place her summer residence." The bust is said to have been the work
BAGNIGGR WELLS. 149
of Sir P. Lely. This quotation is from Dr. Bevis's account, to which
we are just about to refer.
Beyond this there does not appear to have been anything of a
remarkable character in connection with the history of the house until
the year 1756, when the discovery there of medicinal springs formed
the commencement of a new epoch in its history. In the year 1760,
John Bevis, M.D., published An Experimental Enquiry concerning the
Contents, Qualities, and Medicinal Virtues of the two Mineral Waters, lately
discovered at Bagnigge Wells, near London. In 1767, a second edition,
with additions, was published, from whence the following curious facts
are extracted : —
"These wells are situated a little way out of London, in the high
road from Coppice Row, or Sir John Oldcastle's, which, about a quarter
of a mile further, at Battle-Bridge turnpike, comes into the great new
road from Paddington to Islington, affording an easy access to the spring
for coaches from all parts : And the foot path from Tottenham Court
Road, by Southampton Row, Red Lion Street and the Foundling Hospital,
to Islington, Clerkenwell, and Old Street, running close by the wells, is
no less convenient for such as prefer walking exercise.
" The place where the waters issue, is environed with hills and
rising ground every way but to the south, and, consequently, screened
from the inclemency of the more chilling winds. Primrose Hill rises
westward ; on the north-west are the more distant elevations of Hamp-
stead and Highgate ; on the north and north-east there is a pretty sudden
ascent to Islington and the New River Head, and a near prospect of
London makes up the rest of the circumference, with the magnificent
structure of St. Paul's, full in front, and nearly upon a level with
Bagnigge House.
"Such a situation, however agreeable in itself, and favourable to
the production and maintenance of springs, should seem, nevertheless, to
expose their waters to be frequently contaminated and spoiled by in-
undations from large and sudden rains : And yet that these springs ever
suffer the least damage on that account does not appear; since they
are found to retain their genuine clearness, mineral flavours, and virtues,
through all seasons and vicissitudes of weather. The floods which, at
times roll down toward this spot, are all received and carried off quick,
150 ST. PANCRAS.
without ponding, by a rivulet, anciently called the River Fleet, which
running near Pancras Church, and the Brill, passes under Battle Bridge,
and so hard by the wells, to London, discharging itself into Fleet-ditch,
and at last into the Thames. Add to this, that although it be difficult
to dig hereabouts two or three feet deep without encountering springs,
yet do the sources of the wells lye so low, as to be inaccessible to any
percolations of rain or other waters, from or near the surface.
" At what time these waters were first known to be possessed of
salutary qualities, cannot be made out with any degree of evidence. A
tradition goes, that the place of old was called Blessed Mary's Well ;
but that the name of the Holy Virgin having in some measure fallen
into disesteem after the Reformation, the title was altered to Black
Mary's Well, as it now stands upon Mr. Rocque's map, and then to
Black Mary's Hole ; though there is a very different account of these
later appellations : For there are those who insist they were taken
from one Mary Woolaston, whose occupation was attending at a well,
now covered in, on an opposite eminence, by the footway from Bagnigge
to Islington, to supply the soldiery, encamped in the adjacent fields,
with water. But waiving such uncertainties, it may be relied on for
truth that the present proprietor, upon taking possession of the estate,
found two wells thereon, both steaned in a workmanlike manner; but
when, or for what purpose they were sunk, he is entirely ignorant."
The water of these wells was of two kinds ; one had aperient quali-
ties; the other tonic, being of a chalybeate nature. It will be unnecessary
to give any account of the various experiments made by Dr. Bevis in
his studies of the properties of these waters, and of which he has given
full details in his book ; but a few interesting particulars of the acci-
dents which led to the discovery of the medicinal characteristics of the
waters may be added.
In the year 1757, upon boiling some of the laxative sort of water
in a tea kettle, it was observed to turn whitish and foul, which caused
it to be rejected for culinary uses. The same year, a man who was
employed at some snuff-mills, then erected close to the well, happening
to be feverish and thirsty, drank plentifully of the water, and found
himself immoderately purged by it, which gave the first intimation of
its cathartic quality.
BAGNIGGE WELLS. 151
The well from whence this water was obtained was about twenty-
two feet deep. There was not the least appearance of any water
trickling in through the junctures of the steining ; it clearly arose from
the very bottom of the shaft, and came in slowly through a blue clay.
This was discovered when continued pumping had almost entirely
exhausted the supply of water.
As the pump brought it up from the well the water was remarkably
clear and limpid, and it is said to have discharged more air bubbles
at the surface than most waters do at the spring head, although it was
less remarkable in this respect than the Bagnigge chalybeate waters. It
never turned foul or deposited any sediment, or threw up any scum,
if kept in clean vessels, unless heated to a degree much beyond that of
the warmth of any known climate. It did not taste disagreebly in the
mouth ; but being swallowed, left a distinguishable brackish bitterness on
the palate ; and there was nothing remarkable in it as to smell, when
cold.
As far as the chalybeate waters are concerned, it appears that in the
year 1757, the spot of ground in which this well was sunk, was let out
to a gentleman curious in gardening, who observed that the oftener he
watered his flowers with it the less they throve. " I happened," says
Dr. Bevis, in his interesting account, "towards the end of that summer
to be in company with a friend or two who made a transient visit to
Mr. Hughes, was asked to taste the water ; and being surprised to find
its flavour so near that of the best German chalybeats, did not hesitate
to declare my opinion that it might be made of great benefit both to
the public and himself. At my request he sent me some of the water
in a large stone bottle, well corked, the next day ; a gallon whereof I
immediately set over the fire, and by a hasty evaporation found it
very rich in mineral contents, though much less so than I afterwards
experienced it to be when more leisurely exhaled by a gentle heat.
Whilst this operation was carrying on, I made some experiments on the
remainder of the water, particularly with powdered galls, which I found
to give, in less than a minute, a very rich and deep purple tincture to it,
that lasted many days without any great alteration. I reported these
matters to Mr. Hughes, but soon after a very dangerous fit of sickness
put a stop to my experiments, which I resumed not that year, nor
152
S7\ PANCRAS.
till lately, when the proprietor called and told me his waters were got
into very great vogue, and known by the name of the Bagnigge Wells,
which indeed I remembered to have seen in the newspapers, without
so much as guessing it had been given to these springs. Mr. Hughes
took me to his wells, where I was not a little pleased with the elegant
accommodation he had provided for company in so short a time.
Upon intimating his desire that I would proceed to complete a proper
series of experiments on the waters, and draw up some rational account
of them, I consented to do so ; the result of all which is the little
treatise now humbly submitted to the public.
" The chalybeat well is just behind the pump room, about forty
yards south of the purging well, being almost twenty feet deep, and
near two yards in diameter within the steaning. It is fed by no less
than four springs drilling through the steaning, the strongest and purest
of which is one that runs in plentifully from the north. It has been
found upon exhausting this well that it replenishes at the rate of three
feet in an hour.
" The water fresh pumped up is exceeding clear, and much of the
complexion of pure rain water ; has something of a sulphury smell as it
issues out, and discharges great quantity of air-bubbles at the surface. Its
BAGNIGGE WELLS. 153
taste is highly ferrugineous, with an agreeable and sprightly subacid
tartness."
In an appendix to the book, the author gives particulars of several
remarkable cures which had been effected by the use of these mineral
springs.
Very soon after the house was opened as a public spa, it rose into
notoriety also on account of its tea-gardens, which became a highly
popular place of resort on Sundays. The gardens covered an extensive
piece of ground, and were decorated in the old-fashioned manner, with
walks in formal lines, a profusion of leaden statues, alcoves, and fountains.
They were much frequented by the lower sort of tradesmen. The
following was a popular comic song in those days : —
"BAGNIGGE WELLS.
" Come, come, Miss Prissy, make it up, and we will lovers be,
And we will go to Bagnigge Wells, and there will have some tea ;
It's there you'll see the lady-birds upon the stinging nettles,
And there you'll see the waiters, ma'am, with all their shining kettles.
Oh la ! Oh dear, O dash my vig, how funny.
It's there you'll see the waiters, ma'am, will serve you in a trice,
With rolls all hot and butter pats serv'd up so neat and nice :
And there you'll see the fishes, ma'am, more curioser than whales,
Oh ! they're made of gold and silver, ma'am, and they wag their little tails.
And they're you'll hear the organ, ma'am, and see the water-spouts,
Oh, we'll have some rum and water, ma'am, before that we go out,
We'll coach it into town, ma'am, we won't return to shop.
But we'll go to thingimy hall, ma'am, and there we'll have a drop.
Oh la! Oh dear!" &c.
A humorous engraving showing Charles Griffith, the Bagnigge Wells
organist, seated and performing upon an organ, was published about the
time when these gardens enjoyed the greatest share of popular support.
The following lines are engraved beneath the picture :
••THE
BAGNIGGE ORGANFIST.
What passion cannot Music raise & quell !
When G[rirfith] struck his corded shell,
The listning Drunkards stood around,
And wondring on their faces fell.
Vide Dry [den] 's Ode to S. Cecillia's Night
Pubd for the Benefit of decayed Musicians."
ST- P
An account published in 1788, says of Bagnigge Wells : " It is a
place of Health, like most of those in or about this metropolis, because
a place of relaxation and amusement, and a tea-drinking convenience for
Sundays, &c.
" There is a handsome long room, the organ in which was once a
favourite part of the amusement of such as resorted thither in motley
crowds ' to kill an idle hour.'
" But what seems most attractive to company (if we except the desire
of seeing and being seen, of appointed interviews, or the attractions they
appear to have for each other) is the circumstance of gardens laid out
prettily enough in what is called the miniature taste, with convenient
boxes for the company : but being situate on low ground, are subject to
be frequently overflowed.
" Having already observed what a motley groupe the company forms,
it may be expected that too many among them are of very indifferent
characters, a consideration which has contributed much to bring the
place into disrepute ; — in the mean time its being particularly open on
Sundays, appears lately to have drawn the attention of the magistrates.
Better order is to be kept, and special care taken that none are
admitted during the hours of divine service.
" Perhaps it may be thought not a little remarkable that the
proprietor of these Wells is ranked with the people called methodists,
and was a constant attendant at a certain well-known neighbouring
chapel, where the congregation was of that description, whilst he
suffered the sabbath to be incroached on, and scenes of dissipation to
prevail on his own premises. \Ve mean not to be invidious ; but the
remark is obvious, and seems to carry its comment with it."
In 1779, a poem entitled "Bagnigge Wells" was issued, in quarto
size, at one shilling. It is supposed to have been written by Hawkins,
but the copy I have examined unfortunately has lost its title page.
The poem is unfit for quotation, but the copious foot-notes are
remarkable for their humour and sarcasm.
In the year 1813, a new tenant took Bagnigge Wells, and the
grounds were made considerably smaller. In the sale that then took
place, the catalogue described the fixtures and fittings as comprising a
temple, a grotto, arbours, boxes, large lead figures, pumps, shrubs, two
BAGNIGGE WELLS. 155
hundred drinking tables, three hundred and fifty wooden seats, etc. The
temple and grotto were purchased by the new proprietor, and remained on
the grounds till the entire breaking up of the house in 1844. The temple
consisted of a roofed and circular kind of colonnade, formed by a
double row of pillars and pilasters with an interior balustrade — a
building much like the water-temples at the Crystal Palace. In its
centre was a double pump, one piston of which supplied the chalybeate
water, and the other the cathartic water. The grotto was a little
castellated building, of two apartments, open to the gardens, in the
form of a sexagon, and covered for the most part with shells, pebble-
stones, and bits of glass stuck in compo. In the long room was an
organ, and a bust of Nell Gwynne, in a circular border composed of
a variety of fruits, supposed to be in allusion to her original occupation
of selling fruit at the playhouse. These specimens of carved work
were originally over a chimneypiece in the ancient mansion, and being
sold by auction, were restored, painted, regilt, and put up in the
room by the proprietor of Bagnigge Wells.
It appears that the gardens, after the curtailment of their fair pro-
portions, soon began to decline in the popular favour, or at least they
appealed to the tastes of a lower class of visitors. The once famous
resort sank down to a " three-penny " concert-room. Mr. Allcock was the
performer upon the organ, but the main attraction was Paddy O'Rourke;
some singers named Alford, Ozealey, Prynn, Box, Sloman, Booth, Gibbs,
Dickie, and others, also gave their aid. The songs and duets were
diversified by the delivery of portions of plays, but without scenery or
dresses. This place was, in fact, the precursor of the Grecian, the
Britannia, and other saloons, the Bower at Westminster Bridge, etc. It
was kept for many years by a man named Thoroughgood. Soon after
the Battle of Waterloo, he obtained one of the hoofs of the horse shot
under the unfortunate Duke of Brunswick. This he converted into a
snuff-box, which he handed round to the visitors, male and female, who
attended his room. But the attraction of the relic seems to have been
inconsiderable, or only short-lived, for the place did not pay ; it was, in
fact, a ruinous concern, and his successors did little better than he.
About the year 1870, Messrs. Gardiner, the brewers, of St. John Street,
Clerkenwell, erected a gin palace upon the site of the gardens.
156 ST. PANCRAS.
PANCRAS WELLS.
At what date the virtues of Pancras Wells first became known is
a matter of some doubt, but it is pretty certain that they were favoured
with a considerable share of public patronage early in the i8th century.
The wells were situated a little to the south of the old church of
St. Pancras, at that time described as being " about a mile to the north
of London." The gardens around the wells were extensive and admirably
laid out as walks for those who visited the place for the purpose of
drinking the waters. The buildings belonging to the establishment, too,
appear to have been sufficiently extensive to accommodate a large
number of visitors. The accompanying reproduction of an Indian -ink
drawing in the Grace Collection at the British Museum will be sufficient
to give a pretty clear view of the locality. The following references
answer to the numbers marked in the bird's-eye view : —
1. The New Plantation.
2. The Bed Walk.
3. The Long Room, 60 feet by 18 feet.
4 & 5. The Pump Rooms.
6. House of Entertainment.
7. Ladies' Walk and Hall.
8. Two Kitchen Gardens.
9. Road to Highgate, &c.
10 & ii. Coach ways to the Wells.
12. Footway from Red Lion St., Southampton Row,
and Tottenham Court.
13. Footway from Gray's Inn.
14. Footway from Islington.
15. St. Pancras Church.
1 6. Old Church Yard.
17. New Church Yard.
1 8. Kentish Town.
19. Primrose Hill.
20. Hampstead.
21. Highgate.
A description of the waters attached to this view informs us that
they "are Surprisingly Successful in Curing the most Obstinate Scurvy,
PA NCR AS WELLS. 157
King's Evil, Leprosy, and all other breakings out and defilements of the
skin : Running Sores, Cancers, Eating Ulcers, the Piles (herein far
excelling the Waters Holt), Surfeits or any Corruption of the Blood
and Juices, the Rheumatism and all Inflamatory Distempers, most Dis-
orders of the Eyes or Pains of the Stomach and Bowels, loss of Appetite,
sinking of the Spirits and Vapours, the most Violent Colds, Worms of
all kinds in either young or old, &c."
In an advertisement displaying the virtues of these waters published
in The Craftsman of July 5th, 1722, there is a note to the following
effect: — " N.B. As the credit of these wells hath much suffered for
some late years, by encouraging of scandalous company, and making the
long room a common dancing room, originally built and designed only
for the use of gentlemen and ladies that drink the waters ; due care
will be taken for the future, that nothing of the kind shall be allowed,
or any disorderly person permitted to be in the walks."
Very near to Pancras Wells was a sort of rival establishment, the
Adam and Eve Gardens, which attained to considerable popularity as
the resort of pleasure seekers, although they had not the attraction of
a medicinal spring to offer. The gardens were attached to the Adam
and Eve Inn (an establishment quite distinct from that at Tottenham
Court Road), close by the old church of St. Pancras, and to judge
by the following announcement, which appeared in a newspaper in the
year 1786, were specially calculated to meet the material wants of
visitors : —
"ADAM AND EVE, PANCRAS.
Charles Eaton respectfully begs leave to inform his friends
and the publick in general, that he has, at a considerable expence,
rendered his gardens and pleasure grounds commodious and fit
for the reception of the genteelest company. A choice assortment
of neat Wines, Foreign Spirituous Liquors, Cyder, and home-
brewed Ale. A good larder, and dinners dressed on the shortest
notice for any number of persons. Societies and other public
bodies will meet with every accommodation at the above house.
A good Ordinary on Sundays.
Tea, Coffee, and Hot Rolls, every morning and evening."
158 ST. PANCRAS.
ST. CHAD'S WELL.
Near Battle Bridge, in a small garden and shrubbery fronting
Gray's Inn Lane, there was formerly a mineral spring, dedicated to
St. Chad, Bishop of Lichfield. St. Chad was the founder of the see
of Lichfield. According to Bede, joyful melody as of persons sweetly
singing descended from heaven into his oratory for half an hour, and
then mounted again to heaven. This was to presage his death, and
accordingly he died, attended by his brother's soul and musical angels.
The following account was published, in 1831, in Hone's Every
Day Book : —
" St. Chad's Well is near Battle Bridge. The miraculous water is
aperient, and was some years ago quaffed by the bilious and other
invalids, who flocked thither in crowds, to drink at the cost of sixpence,
what people of these latter days by ' the ingenious chemist's art,' can
make as effectual as St. Chad's virtues ' at the small price of one
halfpenny.'
" If anyone desire to visit this spot of ancient renown, let him
descend from Holborn Bars to the very bottom of Gray's Inn Lane.
On the left-hand side formerly stood a considerable hill, whereon were
wont to climb and browze certain mountain goats of the metropolis,
in common language called swine ; the hill was the largest heap of
cinder-dust in the neighbourhood of London. It was formed by the
annual accumulation of some thousands of cart loads, since exported
to Russia for making bricks to rebuild Moscow, after the conflagration
of that capital on the entrance of Napoleon. Opposite to this unsightly
sight, and on the right hand side of the road, is an angle-wise faded
inscription —
ST.
CHAD'S WEL
" It stands, or rather dejects, over an elderly pair of wooden gates,
one whereof opens on a scene which the unnacustomed eye may take for
the pleasure ground of Giant Despair. Trees stand as if not made to
vegetate, clipped hedges seem willing to decline, and nameless weeds
ST. CHAD'S WELL.
159
straggle weakly upon unlimited borders. If you look upwards you
perceive painted on an octagon board, ' Health Restored and Preserved.'
Further on towards the left, stands a low, old-fashioned, comfortable
looking, large windowed dwelling ; and ten to one, but there also
stands, at the open door, an ancient ailing female, in a black bonnet,
a clean, colored cotton gown, and a check apron ; her silver hair only
in part tucked beneath the narrow border of a frilled cap, with a
sedate and patient, yet, somewhat inquiring look. This is ' the Lady
of the Well.' She gratuitously informs you, that ' the gardens ' of
' St. Chad's Well ' are ' for circulation ' by paying for the water, of
which you may drink as much or as little, or nothing, as you please, at
one guinea per year, gs. 6d. quarterly, 45. 6d. monthly, or is. 6d. weekly.
You qualify for a single visit by paying sixpence, and a large glass
tumbler full of warm water is handed to you. As a stranger you are told
that ' St. Chad's Well was famous at one time.' Should you be
inquisitive, the dame will instruct you, with an earnest eye, that ' people
are not what they used to be, and she can't tell what'll happen next.'
Oracles have not ceased. Wrhile drinking St. Chad's water you observe
an immense copper into which it is poured, wherein it is heated to due
efficacy, and from whence it is drawn by a cock, into the glasses. You
160 ST. PANCRAS.
also remark, hanging on the wall, a ' tribute of gratitude,' versified and
inscribed on vellum, beneath a pane of glass stained by the hand of time,
and let into a black frame : this is an effusion for value received from St.
Chad's invaluable water. But, above all, there is a full sized portrait in
oil, of a stout comely personage, with a ruddy countenance, in a coat or
cloak, supposed scarlet, a laced cravat falling down the breast, and a
small red night cap carelessly placed on the head, conveying the idea that
it was painted for the likeness of some opulent butcher who flourished in
the reign of Queen Anne. Ask the dame about it, and she refers you
to ' Rhone.' This is a tall old man, who would be taller if he were
not bent by years. ' I am ninety-four,' he will tell you, ' this present
year of our Lord, one thousand eight hundred and twenty-five.' All that
he has to communicate concerning the portrait is, ' I have heard say it is
the portrait of St. Chad.' Should you venture to differ, he adds, ' this
is the opinion of most people who come here.' You may gather that it
is his own undoubted belief. On pacing the garden alleys, and peeping
at the places of retirement, you imagine the whole may have been
improved and beautified for the last time by some countryman of William
III., who came over- and died in the same year with that king, and
whose works here, in wood and box, have been following him ever since.
" St. Chad's Well is scarcely known in the neighbourhood, save by
its sign-board of invitation and forbidding externals. An old American
loyalist, who has lived at Pentonville ever since ' the rebellion ' forced him
to the mother country, enters to ' totter not unseen ' between the stunted
hedgerows ; it was the first ' place of pleasure ' he came to after his
arrival, and he goes no where besides, — ' everything else is so altered.'
For the same reason a tall, spare, thin-faced man, with dull grey eyes
and underhung chin, from the neighbourhood of Bethnal Green, walks
hither for his ' Sunday morning's exercise,' to untruss a theological
point with a law-clerk, who also attends the place because his father,
' when he was 'prentice to Mr. , the great law stationer in Chancery
Lane in 1776, and sat writing for sixteen hours a day, received great
benefit from the waters, which he came to drink fasting, once a week.'
Such persons from local attachment, and a few male and female atra-
bilarians, who without a powerful motive would never breathe the pure
morning air, resort to this spot for their health. St. Chad's Well is
TOTTENHAM COURT FAIR. 161
haunted, not frequented. A few years and it will be with its waters as
with the water of St. Pancras' Well, which is enclosed in the garden of
a private house, near old St. Pancras churchyard."
Hone's prophecy has been fulfilled. The glory of St. Chad's Well
has long ago entirely departed. On September i4th, 1837, " tne
Premises, Dwelling-house, Large Garden, and Offices, with the very
celebrated Spring of Saline Water called St. Chad's Well, which, in
proper hands, would produce an inexhaustible Revenue, as its qualities
are allowed by the first Physician to be unequalled," were sold at
Garraway's Coffee House, Change Alley, Cornhill. A row of houses,
called " St. Chad's Row," was afterwards built upon the spot.
Old Joseph Munden, the comedian, when he resided in Kentish
Town, was in the habit of visiting St. Chad's Well three times a week,
and drinking its waters, as did the judge Sir Allan Chambre, when he
lived at Prospect House, Highgate. Mr. Alexander Mensall, who for
fifty years kept the Gordon House Academy at Kentish Town, used
to walk with his pupils once a week to St. Chad's, to drink the
waters, as a means of " keeping the doctor out of the house."
A gentleman, who professed to have been relieved from a very
deranged state of health by the use of these waters, placed in the
pump room a poetical tribute to their praise, which thus concludes : —
1 Oh ! were Physicians to their judgment true,
' Would give each plant, each spring, each herb, its due,
' No foreign aid we need of Drugs compound,
1 To heal diseases or to cure a wound ;
1 But doctors still, politically blind,
'Deny the bliss, and torture half mankind."
TOTTENHAM COURT FAIR.
A fair was annually kept at the beginning of August in the fields
on the right-hand side of the hedgerow of the road leading from
St. Martin's-in-the-Fields to the old tavern known as the Adam and
Eve.
Upon the occasion of this fair, some of the actors from the chief
London theatres, most celebrated for comic humour, entertained the
visitors with drolls and interludes. They were, however, suppressed by
the magistrates. An official proclamation issued by the Quarter Sessions
162 Sr. PANCRAS.
of Middlesex, and published in The Daily Courant of July 22nd, 1827,
sets forth that "this Court being informed that several common players
of interludes have for several years used and accustomed to assemble
and meet together at or near a certain place called Tottenhoe, alias
Tottenhal, alias Tottenham Court, in the parish of St. Pancras, in
this county, and to erect booths, and to exhibit drolls, and use and
exercise unlawful games and plays, whereby great numbers of his
Majesty's subjects have been encouraged to assemble and meet together,
and to commit riots and other misdemeanours, in breach of his
Majesty's peace ; " these interludes and drolls were prohibited.
" Whoever reads the foregoing Order," says a writer in The Craftsman
of August 25th, 1827, "will have reason to suppose that the worshipful
Gentlemen were in earnest, at the time of publication, to suppress all
the unlawful Games, Plays, Drolls, and other shews, mentioned in it.
That they are unlawful cannot be doubted, since so many of his
Majesty's learned Justices of the Peace have declared them to be so ;
and, therefore, I was in hopes that they would have put their Order
rigorously into execution ; especially since these vagabonds had the
impudence to affront the Government and administration ; for whilst I
was stopt in the crowd, there were two jack-puddings entertaining the
populace, from a gallery on the outside of one of the booths ; one of
whom represented an Englishman, and the other a Spaniard. The
English jack-pudding bully'd the Spaniard for some time, and threatened
to treat him as he deserved ; but Jack Spaniard defy'd him, bid him
take care of his ears, and at last knock'd him down. I was shocked
at such an insolent ridicule of our brave countrymen in our own
country, and expected to see the scandalous buffons taken into custody,
but I don't hear that any examples had been yet made of them. This
can be imputed to nothing but the neglect, or something worse, of
'the High Constable, and Petty Constables of Holbourn Division,'
who were charged with the execution of the solemn Order ; and,
therefore, it is expected that their worships will make a strict enquiry
at their next meeting, why their Order was not punctually obey'd ; this
Fair not only tending to the encouragement of vice and immorality, as
their Worships very justly observe, but even to sedition and disloyalty.
It is not only frequented by pickpockets, sharpers, foot-pads, &c., to the
SMOCK RACE.
163
utter ruin of many apprentices, servants, and other young people, but
renders our nation contemptible in the eyes of all foreigners who
reside here."
SMOCK RACE.
Smock races were a frequent and favourite pastime in olden days,
especially in country districts among the rustic people, to whom the
indelicacy of the exhibition does not appear to have been objectionable.
" Running for the Smock " is said to have been much in favour among
the young country wenches in the North of England, where the prize
offered was a fine Holland chemise, usually decorated with ribbons. The
conditions of the race were that the competitors — young girls in their
teens — should race, a hundred yards on the turf, with nothing on but a
smock. A writer in Notes and Queries describes the spectacle as " a very
pretty and merry sight."
The last race of this kind in Kent was run about the middle of the
present century at Chilham Castle, but the practice was discontinued after
that " in compliance with the proprieties of the age."
In the quaint old engraving which is here reproduced, a race of this
sort is humorously represented as one of the diversions in connection
with Tottenham Court Fair, about the year 1738.
CHAPTER XL
POPULAR EXHIBITIONS AND ST. KATHARINE'S
HOSPITAL.
The Colosseum. — Panoramic View of London. — The Swiss Cottage. — The Glyptotheca. — Classic
Ruins. — Stalactite Cavern. — Cyclorama of Lisbon. —The Diorama. — The Cosmorama. — The
Royal Hospital of St. Katharine : foundation, benefactions, statutes, &c. — Raymond Lully. —
The Hospital Church. — Removal to Regent's Park.
THE COLOSSEUM.
CURING the Great Exhibition of 1851, when
. ' visitors from all parts of the world crowded to
', the great centre of London, one of the most
' : popular of the many sights in the Metropolis was
\ ; the Colosseum. It was so called from its colossal
size, and was originally planned by Mr. Hornor,
and commenced for him, in 1824, by Messrs.
Peto and Grissell, from designs by Decimus
Burton, the architect who was responsible for many
buildings in London about that period.
The main part of the building was polygonal on the
outside, having sixteen faces, each measuring twenty-five
feet in length, and the whole of the chief portion occupied
a space a hundred and twenty-six feet in diameter ex-
ternally. The walls were three feet thick at the ground,
sixty-four feet high on the outside, and seventy-nine feet
high within. This was surmounted by an immense dome,
one hundred and twelve feet in height. Fronting the
west there was a bold portico, with six fluted columns of
the Grecian Doric order, sustaining a well proportioned
pediment. Its entablature was extended along the flanks,
THE COLOSSEUM. 165
and around the whole building. At each angle were double antae, or
pilasters, rising from the base to the cornice ; and above the parapet there
were three steps from which sprang the dome. This was crowned by a
parapet, forming a circular gallery, for the convenience of visitors who
desired to enjoy a sight of the natural panorama which the adjacent Park,
buildings, and distant country afforded. The upper portion of this dome,
seventy-five feet in diameter, was glazed for the purpose of lighting the
whole of the interior, there being no side windows. The lower part of
the dome was cased with sheets of copper painted. Beneath the portico
there was a drive for carriages, and a paved path for foot passengers. A
large and lofty doorway opened to a handsome but plain vestibule, with
its walls painted in imitation of white marble, and its pilasters in imitation
of Sienna marble. It was divided into three compartments, measuring
70 feet by fourteen, and was forty feet in height in the middle division.
This was an intermediate building, between the open portico and the
main work. On the left was a flight of descending stairs for visitors to
the middle gallery ; and on the right, another flight to view the saloon,
the first gallery, the third gallery under the ball (the original ball,
removed from St. Paul's Cathedral), and the exterior parapet-gallery, on
the summit of the building.
There was a small, narrow corridor which conducted the visitor
to the centre of the rotunda, where he entered a spacious circular
apartment, called the saloon, fitted up with festooned and flowing
draperies, hung and arranged in imitation of an immense tent, arched
overhead, and formed with numerous recesses around the exterior verge,
for settees and tables ; whilst a collection of pictures, sculptured and
fancy pieces, objects of virtu and curiosity, were arranged in various
places throughout the apartment. This room was intended as a place for
rest or promenade. The immediate centre of the room was occupied
by a circular enclosure of strong and substantial framework, containing
two spiral staircases, and a circular chamber, in which was suspended a
lift capable of conveying from ten to twenty persons to and from the
first gallery.
The famous picture which this remarkable building was designed to
display was a panoramic view of London from the top of St. Paul's
Cathedral. Mr. Hornor, the projector of this work, finished the sketches
166 ST. PANCRAS.
for its execution in 1824, having constructed scaffolding and a suspended
house, or large box, above the highest cross of the Cathedral, at a time
when a new ball and cross were required, to crown the summit of that
edifice. The undertaking was daring and hazardous; but, when accom-
plished, was calculated to produce such a picture as had never before
been executed. The painting of the picture upon the walls of the
Colosseum was certainly a wonderful performance. It covered upwards of
forty-six thousand square feet, or more than an acre of canvas. The
dome, on which the sky was painted, was thirty feet more in diameter
than the cupola of St. Paul's, and the circumference of the horizon from
that point of view represented nearly one hundred and thirty miles. After
the sketches were completed upon two thousand sheets of paper, and the
building finished, no individual could be found to paint the picture in a
sufficiently short period. Artists of talent were not possessed of sufficient
hardihood to execute the difficult and dangerous work. The painting of
such a large extent of surface, and of such peculiar formation, was
scarcely more dfficult than to gain easy and safe access to every part
of it. The common modes of scaffolding could not be adopted, and
many unsuccessful attempts were made to accomplish the gigantic and
intricate task. At length Mr. E. T. Parris was found willing to undertake
the work. This gentleman was possessed of considerable taste, knowledge
of mechanics and perspective, and practical knowledge of that sort of
painting. Above all he had steady nerves, enthusiasm, and perseverance,
and was able to adapt many original and ingenious plans to that
peculiar undertaking, to effect much with his own hands, and direct
others by his quick and discriminating eye. Standing in a basket,
supported by two loose poles, and lifted to a great height by ropes, he
painted and finished nearly the whole surface of this immense picture of
London.
Spectators viewed the picture from a balustraded gallery, with a
projecting frame beneath it in exact imitation of the outer dome of
St. Paul's Cathedral. It presented such a pictorial history of London —
such a faithful display of its myriads of public and private buildings — such
an impression of the vastness, wealth, business, pleasure, commerce, and
luxury of the English metropolis, as nothing else could effect. Towards
the north the eye recognised Newgate Market, the old College of
THE COLOSSEUM. 167
Physicians, Newgate, the Blue-coat School, St. Bartholomew's Hospital,
Smithfield Market, with its crowds of sheep and oxen, and the new
Post Office. These were objects in the fore-ground. Beyond them were
Clerkenwell, the Charter House, and the lines of Goswell and St. John's
Streets, Pentonville, Islington, and Hoxton. In the next or third distance
there were represented Primrose Hill, the noted Chalk Farm, Hampstead,
and a line of fine wooded and wild hills to Highgate. The bold Archway
and excavated road at the latter place, and the line of the great North
Road, from Islington to Highgate, were clearly to be traced ; whilst
Stamford Hill, Muswell Hill, part of Epping Forest, and portions of
Essex, Hertfordshire, and Middlesex, bounded the horizon.
To the east was displayed a succession of objects all differing from
the former in effect, character, and associations. Whilst that view
exhibited the quiet, rural, and cheerful scenery of the environs of London,
this view embraced the warehouses and docks and other proofs of the
immense bustle and business belonging to the River Thames. In the
immediate fore-ground was St. Paul's School-house ; whilst the lines of
Cheapside, Cornhill, Leadenhall Street, and Whitechapel carried the eye
through the very heart of the city, conducting it to Bow, Stratford, and
a fine tract of woodlands in Essex. On the right and left of this
line were to be seen the towers of Bow Church, Cheapside ; St. Mary
Woolnoth ; St. Michael, Cornhill ; St. Ethelburg, Bishopsgate, and others
of sub-ordinate height ; the Bank, Mansion House, Royal Exchange, East
India House, and several of the Companies' Halls. Another line nearly
parallel, but a little to the east, extended throughout Watling Street (the
old Roman Road) to Cannon Street, Tower Street, and the Tower of
London. It also included Greenwich Hospital and some portions
of Essex.
Upon the south, with the River Thames, and its numerous fine
bridges in the fore-ground, there were shown an amazing number and
variety of public and private buildings.
The western view included the west end of St. Paul's Cathedral,
Ludgate Hill, Fleet Street, the Strand, Piccadilly, etc., Holborn and
Oxford Street, the Inns of Court, Westminster, Hyde Park, Kensington
Gardens, and a long stretch of flat country to Windsor.
A staircase led to the upper gallery, from which the spectator had
168 ST. PANCRAS.
an opportunity of again contemplating the whole picture in a sort of
bird's eye view. Another flight of stairs communicated with a room
containing the ball, which was originally placed on the top of the dome
of St. Paul's Cathedral, and also a fac-simile of the cross. A few steps
more conducted the visitor to the summit of the building, which
commanded extensive views over the neighbouring houses and parks.
This panorama was first exhibited in the spring of the year 1829,
before the painting was actually completed ; nevertheless it was computed
that upwards of a million spectators visited it during that year and the
subsequent years until 1845, when, under the direction of Mr. William
Bardwell, the picture was almost entirely repainted by Mr. Parris and his
assistant artists. In connection with the original Colosseum there was a
conservatory, three hundred feet in length, stored with many choice and
beautiful plants. There were also waterfalls, fountains, ravines, and a
Swiss Cottage, the latter having been designed by Mr. P. F. Robinson, an
architect, and the author of several publications upon architectural subjects.
Numerous structural alterations were made in the building, in addition
to the repainting of the panorama in 1845.. The entrance on the
Regent's Park side was considerably improved, and from it the visitor
proceeded down a handsome and well-lighted staircase to a vestibule,
leading to the Glyptotheca, or Museum of Sculpture, the Classic Ruins,
Conservatory, etc.
The eastern entrance in Albany Street was newly constructed at that
period for the convenience of such visitors as desired to enter from that
side of the Colosseum. Entering here by large folding doors, the visitor
passed into a square vestibule ; thence, to the left, into a noble arched
corridor, reminding the Italian tourist of the entrance to the Vatican.
The corridor was lighted, during the day, from above, by several circles
of cut and ground glass ; and, at night, by twenty-six bronze tripods.
Descending to the basement story by three easy flights of steps, he
entered a spacious apartment, supported by columns and pilasters, and
adorned with glass chandeliers : in this room refreshments could be
obtained. Glass doors opened at the north end into the Swiss Cottage,
and at the south into the Conservatories and Promenade. Proceeding
from the refreshment room, a similar corridor to that on the Regent's
Park side of the building conducted the visitor to the Glyptotheca.
THE COLOSSEUM. 169
The Glyptotheca, or Museum of Sculpture, designed and erected by
Mr. William Bradwell, chief machinist of Covent Garden Theatre, was a
much finer apartment than that known as the " Saloon of Arts," which
was originally constructed upon this site. In lieu of the draperies, which
had the appearance of a large tent hastily fitted up for some temporary
purpose, the visitor now beheld a lofty dome, of several thousand feet of
richly cut glass, springing from an entablature and cornice supported by
numerous columns. The frieze was enriched with the whole of the
Panthenaic procession from the Elgin Marbles, modelled by Mr. Henning,
Junr. This was continued without interruption around the entire circum-
ference of the Hall, and above it were twenty fresco paintings, by
Mr. Absalom, of allegorical subjects on panels, the mouldings, cornices,
capitals of columns, and enrichments being all in gold. Beyond the circle
of columns was another of as many pilasters, dividing and supporting
arched recesses, in each of which, as well as between the columns, were
placed works of art from the studios of some of the most eminent British
and foreign sculptors, who gladly availed themselves of the opportunity
for the first time afforded them in London of exhibiting their productions
with those advantages of light and space so desirable for such a purpose.
In the centre of the building was the circular frame-work enclosing
the staircase leading to the panorama. This was hung with handsome
drapery from the summit of the arched dome to the floor, concealing the
stairs, and harmonizing with the prevailing tints of the architectural
decorations. Around this were seats covered with rich Utrecht velvet,
raised on a dais, and divided by groups of Cupid and Psyche supporting
candelabra in the form of palm-trees. Various other figures supported
branches for lights around the outer circle.
In repainting the "Grand Panorama of London," as it was now
called, Mr. Parris materially improved the sky and distant country, giving
to the picture the appearance of a clearer atmosphere, freer from smoke
than in the first instance, and many of the details were brought out with
greater precision and truthfulness.
To add an appearance of greater reality to the scene, the noise of
various clocks and chimes of church bells were represented by suitable
sounds.
The Conservatories were newly stocked with flowers and shrubs, and
I7o ST. PANCRAS.
elaborately decorated in the Arabesque style. In the centre there
was a so-called Gothic Aviary, superbly fitted up with gilt carved-work
and looking-glass. The Exterior Promenade had numerous clever repre-
sentations of the marble columns and mouldering frescoes of ancient
Greece and Rome, including the ruins of the Temple of Vesta, Arch of
Titus, and Temple of Theseus. The mountain scenery around the Swiss
Cottage, representing the Mer de Glace, Mont Blanc, &c., was painted
by Mr. Danson. There was also an imitation Stalactite Cavern, con-
structed by Mr. W. Bradwell and Mr. Telbin.
There was an Evening Exhibition at the Colosseum, when an extra-
ordinary panorama of " London by Night " was shown. This immense
picture had no support from the wall, on which the day view was painted
behind it. It was erected and illuminated every evening, after the closing
of the morning exhibition. The streets of London were represented as
being illuminated, the moonlight was reflected in the River Thames, and
a movement was imparted to it like that of rippling water, and to the sky
like that of fleecy clouds flying steadily along, and various descriptions of
street music were occasionally introduced.
At Christmas, 1848, was added a superb theatre, with a picturesque
rustic armoury as an ante-room. The spectatory, designed and erected
by Bradwell, resembled the vestibule of a regal mansion fitted up for the
performance of a masque : it was decorated with colossal Sienna columns,
and copies of three of Raphael's cartoons in the Vatican, by Horner of
Rathbone Place. The ceilings were gorgeously painted writh allegorical
groups, and upon the front of the boxes there was a Bacchanalian
procession, in richly-gilt relief. Upon the stage passed the Cyclorama of
Lisbon, depicting in ten scenes the terrific spectacle of the great earth-
quake of 1755, accompanied by characteristic performances upon Bevington's
Apollonicon. In 1851, four exhibitions of the Cyclorama were given daily,
and no doubt the great influx of visitors to the Great Exhibition rendered
that number necessary. During the same year there were daily afternoon
and evening performances upon an immense organ in the Glyptotheca.
In 1855, the Colosseum, with the Cyclorama, were put up to auction
by the Messrs. Winstanley. It was then stated that the Colosseum was
erected at a cost of £23,000 for Mr. Thomas Hornor, who held a lease
of it direct from the Crown, at a ground rent of £262 i8s., for a period
THE DIORAMA. 171
of ninety-nine years, sixty-nine of which were unexpired on the loth of
October, 1854. He subsequently expended above £100,000 to carry out
the objects for which it was intended, by decorating the interior,
purchasing pictures, &c. In August, 1836, the lease was sold to Messrs.
Braham and Yates. Mr. Braham laid out about £50,000 on the building,
which in a few years afterwards became the property of Mr. Turner, who
added the Cyclorama, which cost £20,000, so that the entire edifice cost
above £200,000. The sum of £20,000 was bid, but the property was not
sold.
At Christmas, in 1856, after having been long closed, the building
was opened to the public, with an admission charge of one shilling.
Under the charge of Dr. Bachhoffner, it continued open till the spring of
1864, when it was again closed. The sale of the site was announced in
1870. In December, 1871, it was announced that a company was about
to transform the building and grounds into club-chambers, baths, a
winter garden, &c. In 1874 it was sold ; and large mansions, and a
mews, have subsequently taken the place of the old building.
THE DIORAMA.
A building was set up on the eastern side of Park Square, Regent's
Park, as early as 1823, for the accommodation of a diorama which had
long been an object of wonder and delight in Paris. It was opened in
the latter part of the year 1823, having been erected by Messrs. Morgan
and Pugin in the short space of four months at a cost of about £9,000
or £10,000. The Diorama consisted of two pictures, eighty feet in
length and forty feet in height, painted in solid and in transparency,
arranged so as to exhibit changes of light and shade, and a variety of
natural phenomena ; the spectators being kept in comparative darkness,
while the picture received a concentrated light from a ground-glass
roof. The contrivance was partly optical, partly mechanical ; and con-
sisted in placing the pictures within the building so constructed that the
saloon containing the spectators revolved at intervals, and brought in
succession the two distinct scenes into the field of view, without the
necessity of the spectators removing from their seats ; while the scenery
itself remained stationary, and the light was distributed by transparent
and moveable blinds — some placed behind the picture for intercepting and
I72 ST. PANCRAS.
changing the colour of the rays of light, which passed through the semi-
transparent parts. Similar blinds above and in front of the picture were
moveable by cords, so as to distribute or direct the rays of light. The
revolving motion given to the saloon was an arc of about seventy-three
degrees ; and while the spectators were thus passing round, no person
was permitted to go in or out. The revolution of the saloon was
effected by means of a sector, or portion of a wheel with teeth which
worked in a series of wheels or pinions. One man, by turning a winch,
moved the whole. The space between the saloon and each of the two
pictures was occupied on either side by a partition, forming a kind of
avenue, proportioned in width to the size of the picture. Without such
a precaution the eye of the spectator, being thirty or forty feet distant
from the canvass, would, by anything intervening, have been estranged
from the object.
The combination of transparent, semi-transparent, and opaque colour-
ing, still further assisted by the power of varying both the effects and
the degree of light and shade, rendered the Diorama the most perfect
scenic representation of nature, and adapted it peculiarly for moonlight
subjects, or for showing such accidents in landscape as sudden gleams of
sunshine or lightning. It was also unrivalled for representing architec-
ture, particularly interiors, as powerful relief might be obtained without
that exaggeration in the shadows which is almost inevitable in every
other mode of painting. The interior of Canterbury Cathedral, the first
picture exhibited in 1823, was a triumph of this class ; and the companion
picture, the Valley of Sarnen, equally admirable in atmospheric effects.
In one day (Easter Monday, 1824) the receipts exceeded £"200.
Although the Diorama at Regent's Park was artistically successful, it
was not commercially so. In September, 1848, the building and ground
in the rear, with the expensive machinery and pictures, was sold for
£6,750 I again, in June, 1849, for £4,800 ; and the property, with sixteen
pictures, was next sold for £3,000. The building has since been converted
into a Chapel for the Baptist denomination at the expense of Sir Morton
Peto, Bart.
THE COSMORAMA.
This exhibition was established at Nos. 207 and 209, Regent Street,
in 1820. It presented delineations of the celebrated remains of antiquity,
ST. KATHARINE'S HOSPITAL. 173
and of the most remarkable cities and edifices in every part of the globe.
The subjects represented were changed every two or three months.
THE ROYAL HOSPITAL OF ST. KATHARINE.
The institution which is represented by the church and adjoining
buildings pleasantly situated on the eastern side of Regent's Park, near
Gloucester Gate, has a long and eventful history. The Royal Hospital of
St. Katharine owes its origin to Queen Matilda, wife of King Stephen,
who, in 1148, obtained that monarch's consent to found the Hospital and
Church, in pure and perpetual alms, to secure the repose of the souls
of her children, Baldwin and Matilda, who were buried within it before
her own death. The foundation consisted of a Master, Brethren and
Sisters, and Almspeople ; and the endowments were ample. The Queen
purchased the site, with a mill, from the Priory of the Holy Trinity,
Aldgate, for £6 per annum, charged upon the Manor of Braughing,
Herts, and gave them the perpetual custody of the Hospital.
The Collegiate Chapter of the Royal Hospital and Free Chapel of
St. Katharine, originally situated near the Tower of London, was an
ecclesiastical corporation of the Church of England of higher antiquity,
(if we may accept the testimony of a well-known archaeologist, who wrote
in 1824,) than any other existing. It remained upon that site until the
year 1825, when, for reasons which will be explained in another place,
it was removed and the present buildings at Regent's Park were erected.
It is recorded that, soon after the foundation of St. Katharine's
Hospital, William de Ypres granted a tract of ground called Edredeshede,
since called Queenhithe, near the Tower, to the above Priory of the Holy
Trinity, Aldgate, charged with a payment of £20 to the Hospital of
St. Katharine. Thus it remained until 1255, when Queen Eleanor, wife
of Henry III., instituted a suit against the Prior and Convent, with
the final result of the alienation of the custody, and a dissolution of
the Hospital.
This unjust exercise of power was effected in opposition to the
express charters of Stephen, Matilda, and Henry III., and two decisions of
the courts of law (which had pronounced the right of custody to belong
to the Priory), through the superior address and ecclesiastical assistance
afforded the Queen by Fulke Basset, Bishop of London, who visited
174 ST> PANCRAS.
the Hospital, at the lady's suggestion, on St. Giles's Day, 1257,
attended by a train of eminent persons, and entered into the following
examination of the Prior and Chapter : — What was their temporal right
in the Hospital ; their spiritual right ; of whom they had the latter ;
and why they had placed one of their own Canons to preside over
the Hospital?
The answer was that they had the same right over this Hospital
as they had over those at Corney, etc., etc., whose brethren and sisters
received their habits and pronounced their oaths before them. The
spiritual right, they said, was derived from situation within the parish
of St. Botolph, Aldgate, on their own land, and from grant by the
Bishop of London, who had himself appointed the then Prior, who
was as legally constituted as any ever had been. And, as to the
appointment of one of their own body to the Mastership of St.
Katharine's, it was done to reform the Brethren, who had acquired
the reputation of being frequently inebriated.
The bishop, however, proceeded to remove the canon from his
office ; and prohibited, under heavy penalties, the Brethren and Sisters
from paying any kind of obedience to the prior and convent of the
Holy Trinity. He placed a chaplain over them as master, who
probably presided until the death of Basset. After the death of the
latter, Wengham, Bishop of London, was prevailed upon by the Queen,
in 1261, in conjunction with two bishops and others of the Queen's
council, to summon the Prior and Canons a second time, when they
were intimidated, by threats of the King's displeasure, into a verbal
surrender of all claims to St. Katharine's. Upon which the Bishops
executed a surrender, under their respective seals, to the upright
Eleanor. Urban IV., in 1267, made an ineffectual attempt to prevail
upon her Majesty to restore the Hospital to its legal owners ; who
very soon after this shameful deprivation granted the churchyard of
St. Katharine's to the Brethren and Sisters, for an annual payment of
two pounds of wax, to be deposited on the anniversary of St. Botolph,
upon the altar of the church, and remitted to them five shillings
tithes at Chaldfleet, for certain lands at Edmonton.
Queen Eleanor, after the death of her husband, Henry III., re-
founded St. Katharine's by her charter, dated July 5th, 1273, for a
ST. KATHARINE'S HOSPITAL. 175
Master, three Brethren, three Sisters, ten Beads-women, and six Poor
Scholars, with endowments ; and reserved to herself, and the successive
Queens of England, the nomination of the Master, three Brothers,
Priests, and three Sisters, upon all vacancies. The Beadswomen were
to receive their sustenance from the alms of the Hospital, and lodge
within it, for which they were required to pray for the foundress, her
progenitors, and the faithful. The boys to be maintained, taught, and
to assist in the celebration of divine service.
King Edward II., in the year 1309, granted to this Hospital the
perpetual advowson and patronage of the church of St. Peter, in
Northampton, with the chapels of Upton and Kingsthorp annexed.
St. Katharine's Hospital is supposed to be associated with the
memory of Raymond Lully, the celebrated hermetic philosopher, who is
said to have made experiments with a view to the discovery of the
secret of the transmutation of brass and iron into gold.
Lully was born at Palma, Majorca, in or about the year 1235.
One account of him says that he fell in love with a young woman
who had a cancer, which circumstance induced him to apply himself
*o the study of chemistry and physic for the purpose of discovering a
remedy for her complaint. He is said to have succeeded, but the
account says not whether they were afterwards married. Another account
is that Lully, upon finding the young woman had cancers in the breast,
relinquished his purpose of marriage, and undertook a course of travels
into Africa and the East for the purpose of converting the Mahometans
to the Christian faith, where he incurred great hardships and dangers.
He was so much inflamed with zeal for this object that, not succeeding
in his application to various Christian princes for assistance, he entered
the Franciscan Order, and returned to Africa with the hope of obtaining
the crown of martyrdom. When he was again found in that country,
from which he had been permitted to quit only on condition of not
returning, he was thrown into prison, and subjected to much torture.
He is said to have been stoned to death, but a more detailed account
records his rescue by some Genoese traders after being stoned and left for
dead. His rescuers took him into their ship to convey him home, but on
the passage, and just within sight of his native land, the poor old man
expired. His death occurring in 1315, his age must have been about eighty.
176 ST. PANCRAS.
Lully was a famous man in his time, but his name has long since
been forgotten. His works upon theology, physic, philosophy, chemistry,
and law, which are considered very obscure, have been frequently printed,
and in olden times were much valued.
It is not certain, however, that Raymond Lully was ever in this
country. His name seems to have been confounded, by some writers,
with that of another Raymond, a Jew of Terragona, who had an apart-
ment in the Tower of London, where he tried some experiments in the
prevalent delusion of gold making.
IR X335 Edward III. granted to the Hospital of St. Katharine wood
and timber, to be taken in the wood of Roger Wast, of Leyton, in the
forest of Essex, for firing, and for the repair of their mill at Reynham.
The next benefactress to the hospital was Philippa, wife of Edward
the Third. She founded a chantry here, and gave to the Hospital, £10
in lands per annum, for the maintenance of an additional Chaplain, with
the manors of Upchurch, in Kent, and Queenbury in Reed, in Hertford-
shire. She also granted a new charter and statutes for the regulation of
the hospital. Some of these regulations are curious : —
" The said Brethren shall wear a straight coat or clothing, and over
that a mantel of black color, on which shall be placed a mark signifying
the sign of the Holy Katherine ; but green cloaths, or those entirely red,
or any other striped cloaths, or tending to dissoluteness shall not at all
be used. And that the Brethren and Clerks there assembled shall have
the crowns of their heads shaved in a becoming manner.
" None of the Brethren or Sisters shall stay out of the said Hospital
longer than the usual time of ringing the fire-bells belonging to the
churches within the City of London, for the covering up or putting out
of the fires therein. And also, that none of the Brethren shall have any
private interview or discourse with any of the Sisters of the said house,
or any of the other women within the said Hospital, in any place that
can possibly beget or cause scandal to arise therefrom."
The statutes also gave directions for the diet, stipend, number of
masses to be said every day, visitation of the sick, and many other
internal regulations. They likewise notice the re-building of the church
by William de Erldesby, master of the hospital, who began that work about
the year 1340; to which building the queen was a liberal contributor.
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Sr. KATHARINE'S HOSPITAL. 177
Several royal and other personages were among the benefactors to
this institution in one way and another. It is very probable that
Henry VIII. intended to dissolve this house, but his intention is supposed
to have been altered at the request of Queen Anne Boleyn.
St. Katharine's Hospital escaped the ravages of the great fire, and,
later on, of the Gordon Riots, although upon the latter occasion its
safety was imperilled by the mob. William Macdonald, a lame soldier,
and two women named Mary Roberts and Charlotte Gardner (the latter
a black woman), headed the rabble, who destroyed the dwelling of John
Lebarty, a publican in St. Katharine's Lane, and were about to demolish
the church, as a relic of popery, had they not been prevented by the
London Association. They were afterwards hanged upon Tower Hill.
The old church belonging to this hospital contained a fine monu-
ment to the memory of John Holland, Duke of Exeter, a great
benefactor to the establishment ; and also a very curiously carved wooden
pulpit, which was given by Sir Julius Caesar in the time of James I., and
had around its six sides, this inscription : — " Ezra, the scribe, | stood
upon a | pulpit of wood | which he had | made for the | preachin Neheh.
Chap. viii. 4. j
Early in 1824 some of the principal merchants in the City obtained
the sanction of Government to apply for an Act of Parliament to
construct wet-docks between the Tower and the London Docks, a space
which included the site of the chapel, hospital, and entire precinct of
St. Katharine ; and when the act was obtained, the new Dock Company
made compensation to the hospital, under the direction of Lord Chancellor
Eldon, to the following amount, namely £125,000 as the value of the
precinct estate ; £36,000 for building a new hospital ; £2,000 for the
purchase of a site ; and several smaller sums, as compensation to certain
officers and members of the hospital, whose interests would be affected by
removal to another situation.
A site having been granted on the east side of Regent's Park by
the Commissioners of Woods and Forests, the new hospital buildings were
erected there. The centre consists of a chapel, with chapter-house ; and
on each side of the chapel are three houses, those on one side being
for the brothers, and the others for the sisters, with requisite offices and
outbuildings, including a coach-house ; and at each end, by the Park side,
M
ST. PANCRAS.
there is a lodge. The residence of the master, on the opposite side of
the carriage-road, is situated in about two acres of land laid out in
ornamental grounds and shrubberies. The ancient and interesting monu-
ments were transported at the expense of the Dock Company to the new
chapel, where they have been restored at an enormous expense.
The income in 1890 was stated to be £7,500, and out of this hand-
some sum means were found for the provision of a home and pension
for three sisters and three brethren, and a master; and also for the
education of thirty-six boys and twenty-four girls.
CHAPTER XII.
INSTITUTIONS, THEATRES, &c.
University College.— St. Pancras Volunteers.— The Royal Panarmonion Gardens.— Thorrington's
Suspension Railway.— The Tottenham Theatre.— The Cabinet Theatre.
UNIVERSITY COLLEGE.
N THE YEAR 1826, University College,
London, was founded. The Report of the
Council to the Proprietors, dated 30th
September, 1828, gives the following ac-
count of the early history of the building.
"A portion of freehold land, containing
rather more than seven acres, between
Russell Square and the New Road, having
been purchased by the Council, and the
design of William Wilkins, R.A., having been selected,
the first stone was laid by the Duke of Sussex, on
the 3oth of April, 1827. The contractors were Messrs.
Henry Lee and Sons. The chief access to the
University is by Gower Street, Bedford Square, at the
upper end of which the ground is situated. There is
access also from the new Road by Gower Street North,
and from the west by Carmarthen Street and Grafton
Street, leading from Tottenham Court Road.
"The building, when completed, will consist of a
central part, and two wings advanced at right angles from
its extremities. . . . The central part only has been
erected, and to that the present description is confined.
" At the entrance are two temporary lodges for the porter, one
surmounted by a belfry, the other by a clock,
180 ST. PANCRAS.
" As it must necessarily take some time to finish the dome and
portico, that part of the building is partitioned off from the rest of the
area, to prevent any interference between the students and the workmen.
A temporary semi-circular iron-railing encloses the area for the students,
leaving a communication to the courts behind; a large space of ground
on each side being left for the workmen, while the wings are building.
A broad paved footpath on each side of the porter's lodges, and
a carriage way between the lodges, lead to the doors, in the centre
of what may be called, for the convenience of description, the North
and South Ranges, being the portions of the building on the north
and south sides of the portico. These doors are the chief entrances
of the students to the lecture rooms.
" Upon entering the door of the north range, there is a room
on each side of the passage, both of which are to be used as lecture
rooms."
Detailed descriptions of the various rooms follow, but space does not
allow of any mention of them. They included a chemical laboratory,
museum of materia medica, upper and lower north and south theatres,
libraries, common rooms for the students, refreshment rooms, &c.
Among the professors attached to the University at its commence-
ment was Mr. (afterwards Sir) Anthony Panizzi, whose department
included Italian language and literature.
University College, London, was opened on October ist, 1828, under
the title of " the University of London ; " the institution was incorporated
as " University College, London," by Royal Charter, dated November
28th, 1869, which was annulled by Act of Parliament, passed June 24th,
1869, whereby the college was re-incorporated with additional powers,
and divested of its proprietary character.
The purpose of the college, as expressed in the Act, is " to afford
at a moderate expense the means of education in literature, science,
and the fine arts, and in the knowledge required for admission to the
medical and legal professions, and in particular for so affording the means
of obtaining the education required for the purpose of taking the degrees
now or hereafter granted by the University of London."
The college was founded on undenominational principles, and supplies
instruction in all the branches of education — including engineering and
co
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ST. PANCRAS VOLUNTEERS. 181
the fine arts — that are taught in the universities, with the exception
of theology.
The buildings, the chief feature of which is the Corinthian portico
at the main entrance, surmounted by a dome, were enlarged by a wing
in 1881, and contain a large library, and the Flaxman Gallery, with
original models by Flaxman.
ST. PANCRAS VOLUNTEERS.
The following account of this corps is taken from the Loyal Volunteers
of London and Environs, published in 1799 : —
" ST. PANCRAS VOLUNTEERS.
" Major Commandant, James Miller.
" This Volunteer Corps was formed in April, 1798, for the
preservation of Public Tranquility, to assist the Civil Magistrates,
and for the protection of Property ; but not to march without
consent beyond their own District. The corps consists of three
Companies, Battalion and Light Infantry, of about 340 Privates;
and every man has the care of his own Arms, &c. They were
originally joined to the Kentish Town Association, but are now
unconnected with any Body. The St. Pancras Volunteers
received their colours from the hand of Mrs. Dixon, as Proxy
for Lady Camden, in the Cricket Ground belonging to Mr. Lord,
and they were reviewed by His Majesty in Hyde Park, on the
4th of June, 1799, and inspected by him on the 2ist of the
same month, at the Foundling Hospital. Their Committee consists
of all the Officers, 18 Privates, and a Serjeant-major ; and each
Company chooses its own Privates.
"OFFICERS' NAMES.
Major Commandant and Captain, John Dixon.
First Company. — Captain, Phillip Lejeune ;
Lieutenant, John Crompton ;
Ensign, — Robinson.
Second Company. — Captain, John Dixon ;
Lieutenant, John Downman ;
Ensign, — Adolphus.
182 ST. PANCRAS.
Light Company. — Captain, vacant;
First Lieutenant, John Pepys ;
Second Lieutenant, John Cooper ;
Adjutant, William Elliott.
" DRESS.
Helmets: on a Label, ST. PANCRAS VOLUNTEERS; ornament on
ditto, G. R.
Breast-plate, oval : S. P. V. and Crown at top.
Cartouch : a Star, S. P. V. in centre.
Buttons : S. P. V. ; Light Infantry, a Bugle Horn.
First Company, Gaiters or Boots; Second Company and Light
Infantry, Half Boots."
The dress of the St. Pancras Volunteers was a blue coat and
pantaloons, red lappet, collar and cuffs, and white waistcoat.
On stated days the corps marched to Chalk Farm to fire with
ball at a target, for a silver cup subscribed for by the corps.
THE ROYAL PANARMONION GARDENS.
From a prospectus issued in the year 1829, it appears that a
spacious and desirable spot of ground was selected very near Battle
Bridge, a site which in the year 1790 was occupied by some nursery
grounds belonging to, or in the occupation of, a Mr. Collins. To
assist in the erection of the various buildings projected, which included
concert rooms, hotel, etc., the lessees proposed to raise a sum not
exceeding £20,000 by shares of £100 each, to be paid by instalments,
as the undertaking proceeded. The prospectus sets forth that, " In
addition to the extensively ornamented Gardens, which will be
judiciously planted and pleasingly interspersed with Fountains, Cascades,
Temples, etc., it is proposed to erect an Hotel replete with every
comfort and accommodation, and which the contiguity of the Gardens,
together with Reading Rooms, and Reflectories, for the purposes of
refreshment, which will be supplied with the daily Newspapers,
Periodical Publications, etc.
" The amusements in the Gardens, independently of the ingenious
Rail-way already constructed, will comprehend Concerts, Reading Rooms,
THE ROYAL PANARMONION GARDENS. 183
and a variety of novelties too numerous to detail, to which will be added
a Botanical Bazaar, unique and useful in character, also, Bathing Rooms
of a peculiar and convenient construction.
" A neat and elegant Theatre for Evening Entertainments has been
fitted up, in which Opera and Ballet performances will be produced, with
appropriate Decorations, Scenery, Dresses, etc., to which Shareholders
will be admitted at stated periods.
" In short, no pains nor expense will be reasonably spared in
rendering the general amusements of the Panarmonion Gardens and
Theatre effective and interesting, and it is confidently presumed they will
present a novelty at once chaste and classical. Every care and attention
to individual comfort will be observed. The price of tickets for the
Season, for admission to the Theatre and Gardens, will be regulated by
the Committee of Management."
The Grand Panarmonion Theatre was situated on the north side of
the Gardens, and was probably approached from Chesterfield Street and
Belgrave Street. There were entrances to the Gardens themselves in
Manchester Street, Liverpool Street, and Argyle Street. From a contem-
porary plan of the establishment it appears that there were boxes and
covered walks all around the Gardens, and there were a fountain and
cascades in the Gardens. The Concert room was on the south side, and
the Theatre, Billiard Rooms, Reading and Refreshment Rooms, etc.,
occupied the entire width of the north side of the Gardens.
The "ingenious Rail-way" referred to in the prospectus was doubtless
the "suspension railway" invented by Mr. H. Thorrington, two or three
illustrations of which appeared at the time. The invention seems to have
consisted in suspending a boat-shaped car from a substantial level bar,
along which it travelled upon small wheels. The motive power was
supplied from the car by means of a wheel which was worked by hand,
and by which means the rate of progression was regulated. "No one can
believe," says a contemporary account, " that this Car travels with such
ease and rapidity without being a witness of the fact. The idea is a very
ingenious one, and does great credit to Mr. H. Thorrington, who is the
inventor. The admittance to the Gardens is One Shilling each Person,
entitling the parties to ride round the gardens in the Car, or on the
Hobby Horse. On Sunday, 6d. each person to walk in the Gardens."
184 ST. PANCRAS.
A further prospectus sets forth in detail the various objects of the
institution. It was established " for the encouragement and promotion
of the arts, in their connection with dramatic exhibition, and
for the cultivation and development of native British musical talent."
It comprised an academic theatre for young professors and pupils
of the stage ; a subscription theatre for opera and ballet performances,
admission to which was limited to subscribers, no money being taken
at the doors ; a grand panorama ; ornamental gardens ; assembly and
concert room ; exhibition gallery for paintings and works of art ;
reading room, etc. Signer Gemaldo Lanza seems to have been
intimately associated with the promotion of the institution.
. THE TOTTENHAM THEATRE.
Francis Pasqualis, in the year 1780, at the suggestion of the Earl of
Sandwich, built this house originally, which was known at first as " The
King's Ancient Concert Rooms." In an early period of its history it
received royal patronage, as may be seen from the following notice in a
newspaper of 1792 : —
" ANCIENT CONCERT IN TOTTENHAM STREET.
" This place was honoured last night by their Majesties and
the elder princesses. The selection was made by Lord Exeter,
and consisted, as usual, of compositions by Handel and others.
Master Walch was added to the vocal corps. Kelly, Niell, Miss
Pool and Miss Pache were the other vocal performers, and they
all acquitted themselves with their accustomed ability. The whole
was as usual forcible and earnest, particularly the choruses."
In 1808 the celebrated Master Saunders took the house as an eques-
trian theatre, and it was then denominated " The Amphitheatre." At
one time it was called "The Regency Theatre." It was afterwards
called " The Tottenham Street Theatre," and in 1823, when French
plays were performed there, "The West London Theatre." This is
said to have been the first house in London at which French plays
were put on the stage. It has frequently changed its name, having
been, at various times, known as "The New Royal West London
Theatre," "The Queen's Theatre" in 1835, "The Royalty," and "The
Prince of Wales's Royal Theatre."
THE CABINET THEATRE. 185
The latter part of its career was, to say the least, chequered, and
before it was finally closed it was popularly known by the significant
but uncomplimentary name of " The Dust-hole." The building is now
occupied by the Salvation Army.
Most of the celebrated actors of the day have occasionally performed
at this house. The first appearance of C. M. Young was at a private
performance there. The Royal Life Guards engaged the house for a
private performance in 1804, when Captains Noel, Hardy, Chad,
Thompson, and others took parts, and after the entertainment concluded*
a ball and supper were provided at the expense of Captain Chad.
Madame Catalini had a benefit there, when ten guineas were offered
for a seat in the boxes. M. Piozzi, Mr. Jones, Mr. Lidel, and others,
had benefits at various times. It once was known as " Hyde's Rooms "
when Mr. Griesbach held his annual concert there.
CABINET THEATRE, KING'S CROSS.
This little theatre in Liverpool Street, like its fellow in Tottenham
Street, Tottenham Court Road, passed under various names. Each
new management sought out some fresh name. From Palmer's History
of St. Pancras we learn that it was originally known as " The Philhar-
monic," then as " The Royal King's Cross Theatre," afterwards as
"The Royal Clarence Theatre." After that it was known as "The
Cabinet Theatre," and now as " The King's Cross Theatre." At the time
it was known as "The North London Athenasum " Mr. George Bennett,
of Sadler's Wells, read lectures there on the " Morality of Shakespeare's
Plays." During the more recent part of its career the theatre has been
principally engaged as an amateur establishment.
CHAPTER XIII.
CHARITIES, HOSPITALS, &c.
Charities : Heron's Charity ; Miller's Gift ; Stanhope's Gift ; Charles's Gift ; Cleeve's Gift ;
Coventry's Gift ; Platt's Gift ; Church Lands ; Donor unknown.— Ancient Bequests.— Charity
School.— The Foundling Hospital.— Thomas Coram.— Hatton Garden Premises.— William
Hogarth's Pictures. — Raphael's Cartoon. — G. F. Handel. — " The Messiah."— Benjamin
West, R.A.— The Small Pox Hospital.— The Royal Free Hospital.— North London, or
University College Hospital.
CHARITIES.
HERON'S CHARITY.
UMEROUS ancient charities belonging to the
parish of St. Pancras are mentioned in the
Charity Commissioners' Reports.
William Heron, citizen and woodmonger, by
his will, dated I2th July, 1580, after giving
certain annuities to his wife and others for life,
and after making various bequests, gave £8
towards the repairing of the highways from
time to time in most needful places, between
Spital House at Highgate, and the corner of
St. James's Wall, and the common highway
leading from Highgate through Kentish Town to Battle
Bridge, the same to be yearly bestowed by the constable
and churchwardens of the said places for the time being.
The yearly sum of £8 is paid by the Company of
Clothworkers in London in respect of this gift ; and it is
transmitted in rotation to the officers of the parishes of
Clerkenwell, Islington, and St. Pancras, in which parishes
the highways mentioned by the testator lie.
According to the Report of the Charity Commis-
sioners in 1826, the £8 received by the parish of St.
Pancras every third year was carried to the general parish
fund, out of which the necessary disbursements were made
for the repairs of the highway lying within the parish.
CHARITIES. 187
MILLER'S GIFT.
In a list of the benefactions to the parish of St. Pancras, printed
in 1766, but purporting to have been collected in the year 1696, it is
stated that John Miller, by his will, dated the i8th day of July, 1583,
gave two closes in Green Street, in the manor of Totten-hall Court,
in this parish, containing about nine acres, to Simon Frenchbourne,
of Islington, his heirs and assigns, upon the condition that he and they
should yearly pay 265. 8^. to such one poor impotent man as the vicar
and churchwardens of this parish, and four of the tenants of the said
manor, should appoint from time to time to receive the same.
The Charity Commissioners, in 1826, could find no trace of this
payment, neither could they ascertain what were the lands charged
therewith.
STANHOPE'S GIFT.
It is also stated in the printed list above referred to that Edward
Stanhope, knight and doctor of laws, by his will, dated the last day
of February, 1602, gave to this parish £20, to be paid to the Bishop
of London for the time being, and to the two Justices of the Peace
next inhabiting to Kentish Town, for a present stock for employing
the poor of the said parish that dwell in the manor of Cantelows, and the
profits thereof to be to their relief. The stock to be always kept whole.
In 1826 nothing further could be learned respecting this gift.
CHARLES'S GIFT.
Thomas Charles, by will, bearing date 23rd December, 1617, gave
245. in bread yearly to the poor of this parish for ever, out of four
messuages in Fetter Lane, London, three of them adjoining towards
the north side of the passage leading into King's Head Court, the
fourth behind the three said messuages ; and by decree in Chancery,
dated the 3d day of April, in the 2d year of King William and Queen
Mary, the annuity is payable yearly at every Christmas for ever.
The property charged with this payment in 1826 belonged to Mrs.
Ann Hooper, of Stockwell (or of Prospect Place, Walworth), in the
county of Surrey.
A similar donation was made by the same benefactor to the parish
of Hampstead.
i88 ST. PANCRAS.
CLEEVE'S GIFT.
In the printed table it is stated that Thomas Cleeve, on the loth
of October, 1634, gave the sum of £50, with which was purchased by
the parishioners, according to his directions, an annuity of £2 i6s. a
year, payable out of two acres of free land of Mr. Richard Balthorp (and
in the year 1696 the fee of Mr. Francis Stanton) to the churchwardens
of this parish yearly at Lady-day and Michaelmas-day for ever, to be
laid out for 13 penny loaves of bread, and to be bestowed on 13 poor
people of the said parish (except the poor people of Highgate only)
every Sunday, and to such only that come in due time to church or to
chapel to morning prayer, unless hindered by sickness or otherwise, as
the vicar and churchwardens shall allow to be reasonable.
The premises charged with this annuity are the Boot public-house,
Greenland Place, Somers Town, not far from Battle Bridge, the property
of Mr. Lucas.
The charity was given away by the parish clerk after morning
service at the church, in penny loaves, to poor women of the parish
who attended at the service.
COVENTRY'S GIFT.
Thomas Coventry, Esq., by deed bearing date the loth of July,
1636, settled upon certain feoffees for the Company of Merchant Tailors,
London, the fee -farm rents of £10 35. 4^. per annum, issuing out of
the rectory and church of East Mouldsey in Surrey, and that of £"14
per annum issuing out of the rectory and church of Winslow in Buck-
inghamshire, and that of £j 135. 4^. per annum issuing out of the
rectory and church of Kempton in Hertfordshire, for ever, upon the
condition that the master and wardens of the said company should
yearly for ever, upon the Feast of All Saints, pay out of the same
rents, unto the overseers of the poor of this parish, the sum of £5 to
be bestowed in fuel and clothes upon the poor people dwelling in the
said parish at or near Highgate.
PLATT'S GIFT.
It is stated in the printed list of charities that William Platt, of
Highgate, in this parish, Esq., by a codicil to his will, dated 4th
CHARITIES. 189
November, 1637, £ave out °f the yearly revenues of the lands and
tenements given by him to St. John's College, Cambridge, the sum of
£14 yearly for ever, to be paid to the overseers of the poor every
New Year's Day ; £10 thereof to be given to ten poor people of High-
gate in the said parish, and the other £4 to four poor people in
Kentish Town.
CHURCH LANDS.
In the printed list it is stated that certain lands, copyhold of inheri-
tance, held of the manors of Toten Hall Court and of Cantelows, in
the names of eight trustees, and let in the year 1696 to four several
tenants at the rents of £6, £3, £19 ios., and £8, were given by a
person or persons unknown, for the use and benefit of this parish, for
the needful and necessary repairs of the parish church and the chapel.
DONOR UNKNOWN.
The Report of the Charity Commissioners, in 1826, states that there
is a parcel of land, containing about three acres, lying at Kentish Town,
in the parish of St. Pancras, called the Fortress Field, being copyhold
of inheritance, held of the manor of Cantelow, of the rents of which
the parish of St. Pancras is entitled to one third, and the parish of
Chipping Barnet to the other two thirds. In the printed list of
benefactions to which reference has already several times been made it is
stated that this land was given by some person unknown, and was then
(1696) let for £7 ios. per annum ; £2 ios. thereof for the relief of the
poor of this parish, as the said parish shall in vestry direct and appoint.
It appears, however, from returns of charitable donations made to
Parliament, that among the returns for the parish of Chipping Barnet
this land was the gift of John Brisco, by will dated in 1666. The will
of John Brisco wras searched for, but could not be found.
Upon an application made some years since to the court of Chancery,
the parish documents and the court rolls of the manor were searched,
in order to state as fully as possible the circumstances belonging to this
property, but nothing further was discovered respecting its origin, or the
trusts on which it is held, than what appears in the printed list.
The Charity Commissioners' Report of 1826, says : " The one third
of the rents belonging to this parish, (to which is generally added by the
1 9o sr. PANCRAS.
churchwardens a small sum from the sacrament money,) has been usually
distributed on the ist of January, by a committee of the directors of the
poor appointed for the purpose, by ticket for 35. each ; these tickets are
delivered to the members of the committee previously to that day, and
they give them at their discretion to such persons as they think deserving
of them ; the distribution is made at the female charity school."
ANCIENT BEQUESTS.
The following list of ancient bequests to the parish of St. Pancras
embraces a number of charities which are not mentioned in the Report
of the Charity Commissioners.
BAKER'S GIFT. — William Baker, of Coombe Bassett, bequeathed
the sum of ^"50 to the poor, to be distributed on New Year's
Day in bread and money.
BLUNT'S GIFT. — This was the grant of William Blunt, who, in
1678, left to the poor of this parish, £10 to be distributed
by his executors.
CRAVEN'S GIFT. — John Craven, Esq., of Gray's Inn, left the
sum of ^"2,000 to be distributed amongst one hundred poor
householders of this parish. The distribution was made at
Bagnigge Wells, March 14, 1786.
DENIS'S GIFT. — Sir Peter Denis, of Maize Hill, Greenwich, be-
queathed £200 to the poor of the parish, which donation
was presented by the parish to the Female Charity School,
in 1793.
DESTRODE'S GIFT. — Charles Destrode, of Lambeth, in 1823, left
£15 to be distributed amongst the poor of the parish.
EDWARDS'S GIFT. — Mrs. Grace Edwards, of Pratt Street, left ^"20
for the poor, to be distributed in money and bread, in 1820.
FITZROY'S GIFT. — In the year 1788, the Right Hon. Gen. Fitzroy
left a plot of ground, known as the Mother Red Cap tavern,
for the use of the parish. It was sold in 1817, and the
proceeds applied towards the expenses of the new work-
house,
CHARITIES. I9I
GOULD'S GIFT. — This lady left by will property yielding ^"70 per
year, to be distributed amongst the poor of Highgate,
whether in Hornsey or St. Pancras, to those poor who are
not recipients of parochial relief.
HAMEY'S GIFT.— Baldwin Hamey, Esq., M.D., left by will, in
1674, the sum of ^30, towards the building of a wall to
the vicarage house.
JACKSON'S CHARITY. — John Jackson, of Tottenham Court Road,
bequeathed in 1843, £20 per annum to be distributed in
coal amongst the poor of the parish ; also £6,000 to be
divided amongst several institutions.
JONES'S GIFT. — John Jones, Esq., of Hampton-upon-Thames, left
by will, in 1691, the rent of the Rainbow Coffee- House,
Fleet Street, for the good of the parish, one-fourth to go
to the vicar.
MILLS'S GIFT. — Mr. J. N. Mills, of Bayham Street, Camden
Town, in 1847, bequeathed a sum of money towards the
expense of repairing his family grave, the remainder of
which sum was to be distributed amongst the poor widows
and orphans of Camden Town.
MORRANT'S GIFT. — In 1547 John Morrant gave to the parson and
churchwardens of St. Pancras four acres of meadow land,
called Kilborne Croft, valued in 1547 at sixteen shillings per
annum, twelve shillings to the priest to keep an obit, and
four shillings to the poor in recreation.
NICOLL'S GIFT. — Isabel Nicoll, of Kentish Town, left, in 1682,
a fair silver flagon for the use of the altar of the parish
church.
PALMER'S GIFT. — Mrs. Eleanor Palmer, wife of John Palmer, of
Kentish Town, bequeathed a third part of the profits of
three acres of land, situated near the Fortress Field, to the
poor. In 1696, it produced £2 los. ; and in 1810, ^"14.
PERRY'S BEQUEST. — Henry Perry, of St. Ann's, London, be-
queathed to the poor of this parish the residue of his
estate after the payment of several legacies,
I92 ST. PANCRAS.
PITT'S GIFT.— This was a grant from James Pitt, a church-
warden of this parish in 1668, who left by his will ^"20, to
the poor of the parish.
The foregoing list is given upon the authority of Palmer's History
of St. Pancras.
CHARITY SCHOOL.
The St. Pancras Female Charity School was instituted in the year
1776, for the purpose of maintaining, clothing, instructing, and putting
out to service the female children of the industrious poor of the parish.
In the first instance, a house was taken and six children were elected,
and a matron was appointed for the purpose of instructing and taking
care of them, and such other children as might afterwards be admitted
into the school. These children were taken entirely from their parents,
and wholly maintained by the charity, so as to be kept from bad society
and made useful members of society.
The old Charity School being greatly out of repair and obscurely
situated, and also too small to accommodate the increasing number of
children, a new house was erected, by voluntary contributions, about the
year 1790, upon a piece of ground generously offered for the purpose by
the Right Hon. Lord Southampton, on the east side of the Hampstead
Road, near Tottenham Court, in a public and healthy situation. The
number of inmates, about the same date, was increased from six to
thirty.
"A Brief Account of the Charity School of St. Pancras," published in
1791, states :—
"The Children are instructed in the Principles of the Christian
Religion, in true Humility and Obedience to their Superiors, and such
necessary Qualifications as may make them of Benefit to the Community,
and honest and useful servants.
" They are Annually cloathed ; and when of proper Age, placed out
to domestic Service, in such creditable Families as are approved by
the Trustees.
"Every Person subscribing Two Guineas per Ann : is a Trustee
during the Time such Subscription shall be continued,"
THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. 193
The conditions under which children were admitted to the benefits
of this institution required that they should be free from any infectious
disorder or falling fits ; that they should be not . under eight years or
above eleven years of age ; that they should not remain in the school
after having attained the age of fourteen years; and "that no child be
admitted into the School, unless legally settled in this Parish, for the
full Space of Two Years previous to such Admission ; and the Parents
of such Child have not received any pension or Subsistence from the
Parish (otherwise than from Public Gifts) within the same Period."
Collections at St. Pancras Church, in the year 1790, in behalf of
this institution, produced the sums of £16 155. 6d. and £17. Three
collections at Percy Chapel in the same year and for the same worthy
object produced the total sum of nearly £90.
The board-room belonging to the school is a handsome apartment,
and contains a list of the benefactors, written in gold, and over the fire-
place, a portrait of Thomas Russell, Esq., one of the trustees, painted by
J. P. Knight, R.A.
THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL.
The founder of this excellent institution was Thomas Coram, the son
of John Coram, the captain of a ship, who was born at Lyme Regis in
1667 or 1668. In process of time Thomas Coram adopted a maritime
career, and, like his father, he became captain of a ship. In 1719 his
ship was stranded off Cuxhaven, and after that he settled down to
business near London. His residence was at Rotherhithe, and in the
journeys, early in the morning and late at night, to and from the City,
which his business compelled him to take, he frequently saw infants
exposed and deserted in the streets. His kind heart was touched at
the pitiable sight, and he immediately set about improving their condition.
For seventeen years he laboured hard for the establishment of a
foundling hospital, and at length a charter was obtained, funds were
provided, and the Board of Guardians which had been appointed met
for the first time in 1739. The body of Governors and Guardians
comprised John Duke of Bedford and 350 other persons, including several
Peers, the Master of the Rolls, the Chief Justices and Chief Baron, the
Speaker, the Attorney and Solicitor-General, and Captain Coram.
ST- PANCRAS.
A house in Hatton Garden was first taken, and in 1741 children
were first admitted to its benefits, but only twenty children could be
received, and the large number of applications for admission soon proved
that the limits of the house must be greatly extended. It was required
of all who brought children that they should " fix on each child some
particular writing, or other distinguishing mark or token," so that the
children might be identified if it were subsequently found necessary to do
so. This wise condition removed the danger of a woman being punished
for the supposed murder of her child, when she had really placed it
in this excellent asylum. The number of applicants was so great that
sometimes a hundred women would crowd round the door with children
when only a very few of them could possibly be admitted, and a kind
of ballot was taken, those who chanced to draw a white ball being
admitted subject to the approval of the Board, those who drew a black
ball being excluded, and those who drew a red ball being allowed to wait
and draw among themselves to fill up any vacancy which might chance
to arise where a candidate was found to be ineligible.
The necessity of more extended premises led to the purchase of a
magnificent site, fifty-six acres in size, at the top of Lamb's Conduit
Street. The foundation was laid in September, 1742, and the western
wing of the present hospital was opened in 1745, and the house in Hatton
Garden was given up. The other two portions of the edifice soon
followed, and in 1747 the Chapel was commenced.
The Governors of the hospital having appealed for assistance in 1756,
the House of Commons promised and gave substantial support, and the
hospital was thereupon thrown open for the general admission of found-
lings. A basket was hung outside the gates of the hospital, and an
advertisement publicly announced that all children under the age of two
years, tendered for admission, would be received. On June 2nd, 1756, the
first day when this regulation came into force, 117 children were tendered
and received within the hospital walls.
Children were sent up from all parts of the country in baskets and
bags, and so little care was taken that many of them perished by the
way. One man is said to have made a regular trade of bringing up
from Yorkshire two children in each of his panniers, for which he received
the sum of eight guineas.
CL
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THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. 195
In the first year of this indiscriminate admission 3,296 infants were
received ; in the second, 4,085 ; and in the third, 4,229. Of course it was
found quite impossible to attend properly to the wants of this enormous
number of young and often delicate children. Only a comparatively small
proportion of the children lived to be apprenticed. To remedy this evil to
some extent, it was resolved that some children should be received upon
the payment of £100 each ; but of course this unpopular resolution, so out
of harmony with the plan and intent of the venerable and kind-hearted
founder, was soon abolished. Since January, 1801, no child has been
received into the hospital with any sum of money, large or small.
Children are now admitted solely upon the committee being satisfied that
the case is genuine and deserving of consideration. The chief require-
ments are that the child be illegitimate (except in the case of the father
being a soldier or sailor killed in service), that it be under twelve months
old, that the father be not forthcoming, and that the mother shall have
borne a good character.
In 1745, upon the completion of the western wing of the hospital,
Hogarth contemplated the adorment of its walls with works of art, with
which view he solicited and obtained the co-operation of some of his
professional brethren. On November 5th in each year, the most
prominent of the artists and the Governors of the Hospital dined
together at the Foundling Hospital. One good result of these meetings
was to bring a large number of valuable paintings together for the
beautifying of the walls, and a visit to the Foundling Hospital to see
the pictures became the most fashionable morning lounge in the reign of
George II.
Hogarth was not only the principal contributor, but the leader of his
brethren in all that related to ornamenting the hospital. One of the
richest treasures of art which is comprised in the Foundling Collection is
Hogarth's celebrated " March to Finchley." Hogarth disposed of this
picture by lottery, and as 167 chances remained unappropriated when the
subscription list was closed, the artist generously gave them to the
hospital. The lucky number is said to have been amongst that
remainder ; but another account says that a lady was the possessor of
it, and intended to present it to the Foundling Hospital, but that some
person having suggested what a door would be open to scandal, were
196 ST. PANCRAS.
any of her sex to make such a present, it was given to Hogarth, on the
express condition that it should be presented in his own name.
The next work which Hogarth presented was "Moses before Pharaoh's
Daughter." It was painted expressly for the hospital, and was designed
by the artist to assist in ornamenting the Board-room, where it now
hangs. In the year 1740, Hogarth presented to the hospital a whole-
length picture of Captain Coram ; so that there were now in the
possession of the Foundling Hospital three of Hogarth's pictures, each
of which was an excellent example of the genius of that celebrated
artist.
It has been remarked by Charles Lamb, in one of his critical essays,
that Hogarth seemed to take particular delight in introducing children
into his works. There can be little doubt that he was passionately fond
of children. His sympathy with the work of the Foundling Hospital
was so great and so practical that he had some of the young children
sent down to Chiswick, where he at that time resided, in order that
he and his wife might more effectually see after their welfare.
The pictures at the Foundling Hospital are arranged chiefly upon
the walls of three of the apartments there ; viz., the Secretary's office,
the Board-room, and the Picture-gallery. The following are chiefly worth
notice : —
SECRETARY'S OFFICE.
" The March to Finchley." Hogarth.
Portrait of Handel (in oil colours). Kneller.
A view of London from Highgate (in oil colours). Lambert. This is
reckoned to be one of Lambert's finest works. The foliage is especially
good.
A sea-piece, representing ships employed in the British Navy (in oil
colours). Brooking. A very fine example of this artist's work. It was
given to the hospital by the painter.
Two oil paintings upon wooden panels, representing portraits of
Shakespeare and Ben Jonson. These paintings are known to be of
considerable antiquity, and they are certainly possessed of some merit.
It is to be regretted, however, that nothing whatever is known as to
their history, or of the person who gave them. They have been in
THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. 197
the possession of the hospital since the beginning of this century, if
not longer.
There are some prints, too, in this room, which deserve notice : —
Prints of Hogarth's portrait of himself, and also of Captain Coram.
Mezzotint portraits of George Washington and Benjamin Franklin.
BOARD-ROOM.
" Fear not ; for God hath heard the voice of the lad where
he is" (Gen. xxi. 17). (Hagar and Ishmael.) Highmore. This is
one of the artist's most famous pictures.
"Suffer the little children to come unto me, and forbid,
them not " (St. Mark x. 14). Rev. James Wills, Chaplain to the
Society of Artists. This is Wills's principal performance, and
was presented to the hospital by the painter.
" And Pharaoh's daughter said unto her, Take this child
away, and nurse it for me, and I will give thee thy wages " .
(Exod. ii. 9). Hayman.
" And the child grew, and she brought him unto Pharaoh's
daughter, and he became her son. And she called his name
Moses " (Exod. ii. 10). Hogarth. Presented by the artist.
The four pictures just mentioned are of large size, and occupy the
principal parts of the wall, but there is a series of eight circular oil
paintings of hospitals, etc., which, although of much smaller proportions,
are works of great merit. The following is a list of them, with the
names of the artists : —
Christ's Hospital. Samuel Wale, R.A.
Greenwich Hospital. ,, ,,
St. Thomas's Hospital. ,, ,,
Bethlem Hospital. Haytley.
Chelsea Hospital. ,,
The Charterhouse. Thomas Gainsborough, R.A .
The Foundling Hospital. Richard Wilson, R.A.
St. George's Hospital. ,, ,,
Before leaving the Board-room there are one or two other works of
art worthy of mention. The handsome marble mantelpiece has a fine
basso-relievo, by Rysbrack, representing children engaged in navigation
i98 ST. PANCRAS.
and husbandry, being the employments to which the children of the
hospital were supposed to be destined.
The side table, of Grecian marble, is supported by carved figures
in wood, representing children playing with a goat. It was presented
by Mr. John Sanderson.
The ornamental ceiling was done by Mr. Wilton, the father of the
eminent sculptor.
STONE HALL, OR VESTIBULE.
Among the pictures exhibited in the Stone Hall are portraits of
Archdeacon Pott, Lord Chief Justice Wilmot, Dr. Heathcote, etc. There
is also an oil painting by Casali, representing " The Offerings of the
Wise Men."
PICTURE GALLERY.
This gallery contains a large collection of paintings and other
valuable works of art and objects of interest. The cartoon of Raphael
representing " The Murder of the Innocents," of course, deserves first
mention. This very valuable work of art was bequeathed to the
Foundling Hospital by Prince Hoare, Esq., in 1835. By the will of
that gentleman it was directed that it should be offered first to the
Royal Academy of Arts for £2,000 ; or, if declined, to the Directors
of the National Gallery for the sum of £4,000 ; and if that offer was
not accepted, it was then to be presented to the Foundling Hospital
or to a public hall or college. The Royal Academy and the National
Gallery both declined the offer, and the picture was accordingly
presented to the Foundling Hospital.
This cartoon belonged to a set of ten cartoons executed by Raphael
by the order of Pope Leo X. They were afterwards sent to Flanders, to
be copied in tapestry, for which purpose the Flemish weavers cut them
into strips for their working machinery. When the tapestry was
completed and sent to Rome, the original cartoons were carelessly thrown
into a box and left mingled together. When Rubens was in England
he told Charles I. the condition they were in, and the King desired
him to procure them. Seven perfect ones were purchased and sent to
his Majesty ; the remainder appear to have been scattered in fragments,
here and there, in different parts of Europe. When the royal collections
THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. 199
were dispersed, these cartoons are said to have been bought in for
£300 by Cromwell's express orders.
This portion of " The Murder of the Innocents " was sold at
Westminster as disputed property, and Prince Hoare's father purchased
it for £26. The artistic merits of this superb composition are beyond
all praise, and some of the heads represented in it are considered to
be unequalled by any of the great works of art in the world. Seven
of Raphael's cartoons are now in the South Kensington Museum.
In this picture-gallery hangs the portrait of Captain Coram by
Hogarth, of which the artist wrote, some time after —
" The portrait which I painted with most pleasure, and in which
I particularly wished to excel, was that of Captain Coram, for the
Foundling Hospital ; and," he adds, in allusion to his detractors as a
portrait-painter, "if I am so wretched an artist as my enemies assert,
it is somewhat strange that this, which was one of the first I painted
the size of life, should stand the test of twenty years' competition,
and be generally thought the best portrait in the place, notwithstanding
the first painters in the kingdom exerted all their talents to vie
with it."
Among other pictures are the following portraits : —
Duke of Cambridge. G. P. Green.
Earl of Macclesfield. Wilson.
Theodore Jacobsen, Esq. Hudson.
King George the Second. Shakleton.
Dr. Mead. Ramsay.
John Milner, Esq. Hudson.
In some glass show-cases there are exhibited various documents
connected with the hospital, autographs of various celebrated personages,
trie pocket-book of Captain Coram, and the original draught in pen
and ink of the arms of the Foundling Hospital. It is thought probable
that this was executed by Hogarth.
The connection of Handel with the Foundling Hospital forms one
of the most pleasing features in the hospital's history, and the following
notice is very properly preserved and exhibited in one of the glass
cases : —
" At the Hospital for the Maintenance and Education of exposed
200 57. PANCRAS.
and deserted Young Children in Lamb's Conduit Fields, on Tuesday
y* first day of May, 1750, at 12 o'clock at Noon, there will be
performed, in the Chapel of the said Hospital, a Sacred Oratorio
called ' The Messiah,' Composed by George Frederick Handel, Esq.
" The Gentlemen are desired to come without Swords, and the
Ladies without Hoops. . . ."
In the same show-case are preserved the MS. scores of " the
Messiah " which Handel generously bequeathed to the hospital. " The
Messiah " was performed for the first time in London on March
23rd, 1749.
Upon several occasions Handel shewed his personal sympathy with
the objects of this charitable institution, by conducting musical per-
formances in aid of its funds. In 1749, he gave a performance in
aid of the funds for completing the chapel, upon which occasion he
gave the " music of the late Fire Works, the anthem on the Peace,
selections from the oratorio of Samson, and several pieces composed for
the occasion." The tickets were sold for half a guinea each, and the
audience numbered above a thousand persons.
When the Hospital chapel was completed, Handel presented the
Governors with an organ for it, and his amanuensis and assistant,
Mr. John Christopher Smith, was appointed the first regular organist.
One of the Governors of the hospital presented the communion
plate ; the king's upholsterer gave the velvet for the pulpit ; and many
other valuable gifts were presented.
In the year 1750, upon the completion of the hospital chapel,
Chevalier Casali presented an altar-piece painted in oil colours, entitled
"The Offering of the Wise Men." In 1801, however, the Governors
removed that picture, and replaced it by West's masterpiece of harmony
and colouring, " Christ Presenting a little Child." The artist, speaking
of this work, says —
" The care with which I have passed that picture, I flatter myself,
has now placed it in the first class of pictures from my pencil ; at least,
I have the satisfaction to find that to be the sentiment of the judges
of painting who have seen it."
In order to make the picture as nearly perfect as possible, West
almost entirely repainted it, and the Governors, in acknowledgment, and
SMALL-POX HOSPITAL. 201
to show their high appreciation of West's talents and generosity,
resolved to elect him one of their corporate body. It was West's
intention to fill two panels in the chapel with oil paintings, but unluckily
his professional engagements were too numerous to permit him to carry
out his excellent intention.
Coram, the venerable founder, died in 1751, and was buried in the
catacombs beneath the chapel. Many of the Governors of the hospital
have subsequently been buried there.
Among the objects which everyone who visits the hospital should see
are the miscellaneous contents of two glass show-cases. One cannot look
upon these objects without feelings of deep and pathetic interest.
These cases are filled with small articles of personal ornament and
old and rare coins, which have been attached by a mother's loving hands
to the infants as a token whereby, if necessary, it might be possible to
identify them, after their names were changed and many other circum-
stances of their history forgotten.
When the Governors of the Foundling Hospital were negotiating
for the purchase of the site in Lamb's Conduit Fields, the owner of
the land, the Earl of Salisbury, declined to sell them so small a plot
as they desired, and they were, therefore, forced to buy a large area,
fifty-six acres in extent. Fortunately, this has turned out a very good
investment. The Governors could hardly have done a wiser thing, for
as the neighbourhood has grown and the value of land has increased
so enormously, the rents from the surplus ground have proved a very
substantial source of income to the hospital.
SMALL-POX HOSPITAL.
This institution was first erected on the 23rd of September, 1746,
at Battle Bridge, but the accommodation being insufficient, it was
decided to erect a new and larger building. An old paper of 1793
contains the following notice: — "New Building, Small-Pox Hospital.
The president, vice-presidents, and committee will meet at the hospital,
in Pancras, on Thursday next, the 2nd of May, at 2 o'clock precisely,
in order to assist at the ceremony of laying the first stone of the
new building, by his grace the Duke of Leeds; after which they will
dine together at the New London Tavern, Cheapside. Gentlemen who
202 ST. PANCRAS.
design to favour them with their company are requested to send to the
tavern on before the preceding day, where tickets will be delivered at
75. 6d. each. There will be no collection. — A. HIGHMORE, Secretary."
In 1798, Dr. Jenner having made the discovery of vaccination,
Dr. Woodville, the then physician to the hospital, cordially united with
him in its working, which led to the result of its acceptance by the
principal physicians and surgeons in London. Thus a new branch was
added to this establishment, and it thereupon received the name of the
Small Pox and Vaccination Hospital. For upwards of fifty years it
continued thus, when upon the alterations occasioned by the construc-
tion of the Great Northern Railway, the establishment was removed to
its present situation on Highgate Hill.
THE ROYAL FREE HOSPITAL.
Previously to the founding of this hospital, there was no medical
establishment in the Metropolis where destitute strangers, when overtaken
by sickness or disease, could find an asylum for their immediate reception.
In the winter of 1827, a poor, destitute girl, under eighteen years of
age, was seen lying on the steps of St. Andrew's Churchyard, Holborn
Hill, after midnight, actually perishing through disease and famine. She
was a total stranger in London, without a friend, and died two days
afterwards, unrecognized by any human being. This distressing event
being witnessed by the late Mr. William Marsden, Surgeon, who had
repeatedly been struck with the difficulty and danger arising to the
sick poor from the system of requiring letters of recommendation before
admission to the Public Hospitals, and of having only appointed days
for admission, he at once determined to set about founding a medical
charity in which destitution and disease should alone be the passport
for obtaining free and instant relief. On this principle the Free Hospital
was established in Greville Street, Hatton Garden, and opened to the
public on the 28th of February, 1828. Through the influence of Sir
Robert Peel, the patronage of George IV. was conceded to it ; and
the following year the Duke of Gloucester became its President. Under
the countenance and support of many noblemen and distinguished
personages, as well as private individuals, of the Corporation of London
and other public bodies, its means and utility went on increasing in
THE ROYAL FREE HOSPITAL. 203
a corresponding degree, till 1832, when that alarming and destructive
scourge, malignant cholera, appeared in London ; and in order to carry
out the great principle of the charity, the Governors at once threw
open the doors of the hospital to all persons afflicted with that dreadful
malady, notwithstanding the other hospitals had closed theirs against
them. Upwards of seven hundred cholera patients were consequently
admitted. In the years 1849 and 1854, when that awful epidemic again
visited the metropolis, more than three thousand in the former year,
and upwards of six thousand in the latter, were, upon the same principle,
relieved by the Royal Free Hospital.
At the death of George IV., William IV. honoured the charity by
becoming its Patron. In the course of the same year their Royal
Highnesses the Duchess of Kent and the Princess Victoria became
Patronesses, and other ladies of high rank followed their good example.
On the demise of the late Duke of Gloucester, His Grace the Duke
of Buccleuch and Queensbury was elected President. On the death of
William IV., the Hospital still retained the Royal sanction ; for our
young and munificent Queen, through Lord John Russell, expressed her
approbation of the Charity, and most graciously condescended to become
its Patron. Her Majesty further evinced her regard for the welfare
of the Hospital by commanding that in future it should be called THE
ROYAL FREE HOSPITAL. In 1863, the Prince of Wales became its
Vice-Patron.
A favourable opportunity of extending the usefulness of the Hospital
presented itself in the autumn of 1842, in the circumstance of premises in
the Gray's Inn Road, formerly known as the barracks of the Light Horse
Volunteers, being then vacant and adapted to the purposes of the Charity.
In order not to lose so valuable an opportunity, the Governors
determined on purchasing the lease of those premises, which they
accordingly did on the 3ist August, 1842, when the Hospital was
established in Gray's Inn Road.
After the decease of the Duke of Sussex, a subscription was entered
into for the erection of a monument to his memory. After several
meetings of the subscribers, and much deliberation, it was decided that
the most suitable mode of carrying out the object would be the erection
of a Wing to the Royal Free Hospital, to be called the " Sussex Wing,"
204 ST- PANCRAS.
with a Statue of His Royal Highness in front. The important work was
commenced in the year 1855, and completed and opened in June, 1856.
In the year 1863, mainly through the zealous exertion and personal
influence of the late George Moore, Esq. (then Chairman of the
Committee), the Freehold of the Hospital was purchased from the
Right Hon. Lord Calthorpe, at a cost, inclusive of incidental charges,
of £5,265 los. 7^., the whole of which sum having been raised by a
special appeal, the property of the Hospital, disencumbered of interest
on mortgage and of annual rental, was vested in Trustees. Henry
Hoare, Esq., Alexander E. Marsden, Esq., M.D., and William Tarn
Pritchard, Esq., are the Trustees at the present time.
In the year 1876, in consequence of the munificent bequest of the
late Rev. John Gautier Milne, the committee resolved to pull down the
old buildings which had formed part of the barracks of the Light
Horse Volunteers, and erect a new wing and other necessary buildings
for the accommodation of the nurses, and the increasing requirements
of the hospital. As the amount derived from Mr. Milne's legacy was
only sufficient to enable the Committee to carry out a part of this
scheme, they resolved in the first instance to proceed with the erection
of the new wing, containing fifty additional beds ; a large out-patient
department, including waiting rooms for men and women ; the dispensary ;
and a covered way for communicating with the other portions of the
building. This wing was completed and opened in the spring of 1878, and
has been named the Victoria Wing, in honour of Her Majesty the Queen.
In the year 1878, in consequence of the munificent legacies bequeathed
by the late Mr. Wynn-Ellis, Miss Usborne, Mr. George Moore, Mr.
James Graham, Mr. Thornhill Gell, and Mr. Walter Cave, the Committee
were enabled to carry out the rest of the works comprised in the scheme
for the reconstruction of the Hospital. These buildings contain the
nurses' quarters; isolated wards for patients; a large room for meetings;
private rooms for the medical staff and students ; museum, post-mortem
theatre ; mortuary ; and a number of store-rooms and other necessary
conveniences ; and were completed and opened at the close of 1879.
The Governors are now in possession of a hospital containing 150 beds,
constructed on the most approved modern principles, and replete with
every convenience for the comfort of the patients and nurses.
UNIVERSITY COLLEGE HOSPITAL. 205
This hospital was founded on the principle of free and unrestricted
admission of the sick poor ; poverty and suffering being the only pass-
ports required. Having no endowment, it is entirely dependent for
support on the subscriptions of its Governors and the voluntary donations
and bequests of its friends.
The hospital has afforded relief to over two million poor sick persons,
and admits into its wards about 2,000 in-patients annually, besides
administering advice and medicine to more than 25,000 out-patients, who
resort to it, not only from the crowded courts and alleys in its immediate
neighbourhood, but from all parts of London and the suburban districts.
The relief thus afforded is effected at a cost of about £11,500 per annum,
while the reliable income of the Charity from annual subscriptions and
other sources does not exceed £2,500, so that the large balance of £9,000
has to be raised by means of constant appeals to the public benevolence-
NORTH LONDON, OR UNIVERSITY COLLEGE HOSPITAL.
A beginning of this institution was practically made on the 8th
September, 1828, when the " University Dispensary " was established at
No. 4, George Street, Euston Square. It was the medical school of the
University of London, and the " objects of the Institution " covered a
large, comprehensive, and benevolent area for work. The specified objects
were " To give medical and surgical advice and administer medicines
gratuitously, to poor persons suffering under disease of any description.
To visit at their own abodes those who from the severity of the case
may be incapable of attending at the Dispensary. To provide poor
iying-in at their own homes with professional attendance and medicines."
The management of the Dispensary was at this early stage of its
career in the hands of a Committee of Proprietors of the University of
London.
In 1833, a large and influential committee having been appointed, and
the Council, with the consent of the Proprietors, having set apart an
eligible plot of ground facing the College, valued at £7000, on which to
build an hospital, public subscriptions towards that object were solicited,
and the result was so satisfactory that in May, 1833, a sufficient sum
had been raised to justify the Committee in at once proceeding with the
erection of the building.
206
ST. PANCRAS.
The selected design by Mr. Ainger provided for the accommodation
of 230 patients, but the funds would only enable the Committee to start
with the erection of the entire block, to contain 130 beds. On the 22nd
of May, 1833, the first stone of the North London Hospital, as it was
then called, was laid by his Grace the Duke of Somerset.
It is a noteworthy fact that such of the medical professors as were to
be appointed physicians or surgeons to the hospital agreed to devote their
fees exclusively to the support of the institution.
The President of the hospital, from its foundation until the year 1866,
was the Rt. Hon. Lord Brougham and Vaux, Lord High Chancellor.
The hospital was opened for the reception of patients on the ist
of November, 1834, and after twelve months had elapsed it became
evident that there was absolute necessity for extending the accommodation
already provided.
During the years 1838-40, the work of building the south wing was
carried on, and in November, 1840, was completed.
The foundation of the north wing was laid on the 2Oth May, 1846,
by Lord Brougham and Vaux.
In 1854, Dr. William Jenner was appointed physician, and, in 1856,
Mr. Henry Thompson (afterwards Sir Henry Thompson) assistant-surgeon
to the hospital.
In 1867, Mr. Edward Yates, a member of the hospital committee,
bequeathed £46,000 to University College as trustee for the hospital — the
income of one half to be appropriated for the purpose of a " Samaritan
Fund " for the relief of poor patients, and that of the remainder to the
general purposes of the hospital.
CHAPTER XIV.
CELEBRITIES AND MISCELLANEA.
St. Pancras Celebrities : Frank Buckland, John Leech, Barry Cornwall, Charles Dickens,
Charles Darwin, Thackeray, Shelley, Charles Kean, Samuel Warren, Dr. Dodd, George
Smith. — Anecdote of Toplady. — Miscellanea: Capper's Farm, Pugilism, Items from Old
Newspapers. — Index.
ST. PANCRAS CELEBRITIES.
N EXTENDED search would doubtless tend
to show that St. Pancras in its association
with celebrated men and women of the past
is equally rich with its sister parish of St.
Marylebone. A very few of its celebrities
are here set down, without any attempt to
exhaust the list.
ALBANY STREET.
Frank Trevelyan Buckland lived for some
years at No. 37 (formerly No. 34), Albany Street.
BRUNSWICK SQUARE.
The well-known caricaturist, John Leech, resided at
No. 32 in this square for about ten years.
Barry Cornwall (W. B. Procter) in 1816 was living in
a house in Brunswick Square.
DOUGHTY STREET.
Among the many residences of Charles Dickens in
London, No. 48, Doughty Street, was one. Dickens resided with his
family in that house from March, 1837, until late in the year 1839,
and while living there he wrote Oliver Twist and Nicholas Nickleby.
208 S7. PANCRAS.
GOWER STREET.
Charles Darwin lived in furnished apartments, in the year 1839, at
No. no, Gower Street.
Charles Dickens and his parents used at one time to reside at
No. 4, North Gower Street.
GREAT CORAM STREET.
William Makepeace Thackeray was, in 1840, living at No. 13, Great
Coram Street. It was whilst residing at this house that he wrote The
Paris Sketch Book.
ST. PANCRAS CHURCHYARD.
In the churchyard attached to the old church of St. Pancras, Percy
Bysshe Shelley wooed and won his bride, Mary Godwin.
T/VISTOCK SQUARE.
Tavistock House, on the north-east side of Tavistock Square, was
from 1850 to 1860 the home of Charles Dickens. Bleak House and
Little Dorrit were produced during this period.
TORRINGTON SQUARE.
During the period of his management of the Princess's Theatre,
viz., from 1853 to 1856, Charles Kean resided at No. 3, Torrington
Square.
WOBURN PLACE.
Samuel Warren lived at No. 35, Woburn Place, from 1840 to
1857. His novel, Ten Thousand a Year, by which he is best known, was
published in 1841, and was probably partially, if not entirely, written
at that house.
DR. DODD.
Dr. Dodd's execution has been referred to in an earlier part of this
volume (see pp. 74-5). After the melancholy scene at Tyburn was over,
the body was conveyed by the undertaker to a house in George Street,
Tottenham Court Road, with the hope that by some means life might
be resuscitated ; and, indeed, it was afterwards reported that the efforts
used were successful, and that he had retired to France. But such
was not the case. Death had too effectually accomplished his work,
ST. PA NCR AS CELEBRITIES. 209
and no means which could be used by the several eminent surgeons
and members of the medical profession who were present, could avail
to bring back life to the lifeless body, which they resigned to the
persons appointed to see his remains interred.
It was the wish of Dr. Dodd to be buried in his own churchyard,
and the place was crowded the whole day with people in carriages and
on horseback who came to witness the ceremony. But the sexton
informed them he had been carried to a village near Uxbridge for
interment. This false report gaining ground, the spectators departed
for that place. In the afternoon, however, a vault was opened in West
Ham Churchyard, which belonged to a very ancient family, and a few
minutes past twelve the body of the unfortunate clergyman was interred
therein, in the presence of a great number of spectators, who flocked
to the churchyard on the report of the vault being opened.
GEORGE SMITH.
This famous bass singer resided for many years in Union Street,
Somers Town. The deep tone of his voice is said to have been
surprising, and to have had a wonderful effect upon every person who
heard it. The following anecdote is told of him : —
One day Mr. James, of the Bedford Arms, Camden Town, having
a party of friends about to dine with him, invited Smith to join them,
which he did, and they dined in the club-room, which was over the
smoking parlour. An elderly gentleman was quietly smoking his pipe
below, when Smith sang " The Wolf," which had such an extraordinary
effect upon him, that he rang the bell and told the waiter that he
wished to speak to Mr. James. Upon his coming into the room, he
requested to know tfye name of the gentleman who had just been
singing; and when told it was Mr. George Smith, of Drury Lane
Theatre, he remarked, "Well, although I am quite aware that he was
over my head, yet I declare that his voice lifted up my chair, and
made my glass dance upon the table."
ANECDOTE OF TOPLADY.
In 1775, Toplady was compelled through ill-health to come to
London, and he became preacher at Orange Street Chapel, Leicester
2io ST. PANCRAS.
Square, for a short time. On Sunday, June 14, in the last stage of
consumption, and only two months before he died, he ascended his pulpit
in Orange Street Chapel, after his assistant had preached, to the
astonishment of his people, and gave a short but affecting exhortation, at
the close of which he made the following declaration : — " It having been
industriously circulated by some malicious and unprincipled persons, that
during my present long and severe illness, I expressed a strong desire
of seeing Mr. John Wesley, before I die, and revoking some particulars
relative to him, which occur in my writings, — Now I do publicly and
most solemnly aver that I have not nor never had any such intention
or desire ; and that I most sincerely hope that my last hours will be
much better employed than in communing with such a man. So certain
and satisfied am I of the truth of all that I have ever written, that
were I now sitting up in my dying bed, with a pen and ink in my
hand, and all the religious and controversial writings I ever published,
especially those relating to Mr. John Wesley, and the Armenian contro-
versy, whether respecting fact or doctrine, could be at once displayed to
my view, I should not strike out a single line relative to him or them."
MISCELLANEA.
CAPPER'S FARM.
Two maiden ladies, sisters, of the name of Capper, occupied a farm
situated behind the north-west end of Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury.
They wore riding-habits and men's hats. One rode an old grey mare,
and took a spiteful delight in cutting kite-strings attached to kites when-
ever she came across boys indulging in that pastime. For that purpose
she provided herself with a large pair of shears. The other sister's
business was to seize the clothes of the lads who trespassed upon their
premises. About a hundred years ago there were only a few straggling
houses between Capper's Farm and the "Adam and Eve" public house.
There is some reason to think that a portion, at least, of the farm-
house still remains. Messrs. Heale and Son's extensive premises at No.
195-198, Tottenham Court Road, stand upon the boundary-line which
separates the parishes of St. Pancras and St. Giles-in-the-Fields. There
are two tablets, attached to the walls of an old building in the rear of
MISCELLANEA. 211
those premises, which mark the boundary-line, and both bear last-century
dates. An old lease of the property contains a clause binding the
tenant to keep up stabling for forty head of cattle. That old stable,
constructed entirely of wood, was destroyed by fire a few years ago, and
the ground it occupied is now covered by the show-rooms attached to
Messrs. Heale's extensive premises. This may have been Capper's Farm,
but the evidence is not conclusive. It is known, however, that the
premises were once used for the purposes of a large livery-stable.
PUGILISM.
The Morning Herald of August 22nd, 1805, gives the following
curious account of a female pugilist : —
"A singular case of pugilism was seen yesterday, August 21, 1805.
Two porters, of the names of Johnson and Wigmore, having had a
quarrel in Tottenham Court Road, on the next day agreed to meet in
the fields to have a fight. The contest afforded but little diversion,
as neither parties possessed any skill, and Johnson was declared the
victor in the space of fifteen minutes. The wife of Wigmore who
seconded her husband, was so enraged at this, that she challenged the
second of her husband's opponent, a fellow of the name of Leverett, and
a fight took place, in which sally she made such forcible straitforward
hits that her opponent reluctantly yielded to her superior strength and
science. After a fight of ten minutes, the Amazonian pugilist then
challenged her husband's conqueror."
The London newspapers of the last century contain a great deal of
information about the various events which took place in this district.
Cases of highway robbery appear to have been of frequent occurrence
close by the old church of St. Pancras, and the following few extracts are
given without further comment : —
"Yesterday evening a prodigious concourse of people were assembled
in St. Pancras Churchyard to see a Free Mason's funeral. Many people
having got on the tiles belonging to the Adam and Eve, some of the
waiters imprudently threw water at them, which enraged them so much
212 ST. PANCRAS.
that they stripped the whole row of arbors of the tiling, threw them
into the gardens and did much mischief. The pickpockets took advantage
of the confusion and uproar, and eased many people of their pocket
handkerchiefs, snuff-boxes, etc.
" Last night one of the Hampstead stages was stopped at Pancras
by two Footpads, armed with cutlasses, who robbed the passengers of
between four and five pounds, and, after threatening to murder every
person that attempted to apprehend them, made off through the
churchyard." — i$th September, 1772.
" On Thursday morning a duel was fought near Pancras by Capt.
E — , formerly of Burgoine's Light Horse, and a Surgeon in the army ;
they fired each a case of pistols, in the course of which the former
received a shot in the arm, and another in the side, when he fell to
the ground, and was directly dressed by his antagonist, who assisted
to place him in a coach, and attended him to his apartments in Bond
Street, where he lies dangerously ill." — 2^th January, 1774.
" Early on Thursday morning two modern men of honour (a Parish-
clerk and a Barber) met in a field near Pancras, in order to settle a
dispute which had arisen from the former gentleman's having accused
the latter of writing a paragraph which appeared in a morning paper,
tending to ridicule him (the said clerk) for dancing at a public ball ;
but just as they were proceeding to action, they were interrupted by
the arrival of a lady (wife of the psalm-singing hero) who very soon
ended this important business in a ludicrous manner, by wresting the
pistols out of their hands, and then seizing the poor tonsor by the
foretop, giving him a most severe and terrible scratching, for his
insolent attempt to injure her dear man in the eyes of the Public.
Having completed her revenge on him, she instantly commanded her
husband to quit the field, on pain of sharing the fate of his bleeding
antagonist. The hen-pecked combatant had too often experienced the
fatal effects of non-compliance to her will, to show the least
reluctance on the present occasion, and immediately departed, to the
MISCELLANEA. 213
great diversion of the bystanders, who were called to the scene of
action by the cries of the vanquished periwig-maker." — 2jth June, 1776.
" On Thursday last, according to an immemorial octennial custom, the
Minister and Parish-officers of Pancras, attended by a numerous train of
children and other parishioners, made the Lustration of that parish, when
they found no less than three terminal boundaries had been removed, which
they ordered to be fixed up again in their proper places. The procession
forced their way through Lord Mansfield's Park, which, they said, ought
not to have been enclosed : his Lordship was all the while at his house
at Canewood, and was a spectator of their marching triumphant through
his fields, by an ancient common foot-path, which, in law, ought always
to be left free and uninclosed.
" By this lustration of the parish of St. Pancras, made last Thursday,
it appears that two thousand new houses have been built in the parish
within the space of these last eight years." — Newspaper, 1776.
A newspaper, dated 2gth April, 1810, says : — " Another large field,
beyond Somers Town is about to be covered with houses, for the purpose
of assisting London in its progress towards York."
" The Pond by the Brill near Pancras is the most dangerous piece of
water near London. The holes are deep, and the declivities to them very
sudden. More lives have been lost there within seven years than in any
land of equal size ; and it ought to be immediately filled up or enclosed."
— Newspaper, 1780.
" Sunday morning Pancras Church was broken into, and a large brass
chandelier and a surplice were stolen thereout. 'Tis imagined that the
sacrilegious villans were in expectation of meeting with the Communion
Plate, as it was the first Sunday in the month, but they were disappointed
of their expected booty." — Jth April, 1779.
" Sunday morning, about seven o'clock, a hare was discovered in the
fields near Kentish Town, and was immediately pursued. At Pancras it
swam across a pond, and was almost surrounded by its followers. It
214
ST. PANCRAS.
then continued its route to the turnpike by the New Road near Battle-
bridge, when a man was very near knocking it down with his hat ; and
a greyhound, who happened to be there, with too much eagerness to
catch it, leaped over its back and missed it. It then crept between
the narrow rails, and ran across the lawn before the Inoculating Hospital.
This inclosure for some time obstructed the pursuit. It afterwards fled
across the fields to Maiden Lane, and up towards Copenhagen House.
Here poor puss had the good fortune to hide itself, and to remain
concealed somewhere about the brick-fields, though it was followed by
a great number of people with bull-dogs, fox-dogs, terriers, pugs, and
curs in abundance." — September, 1801.
INDEX.
NOTE. — In several cases where surnames are mentioned in the index, it has been found
impossible to give the Christian names of the persons referred to ; but, as a general rule
these cases are limited to the immediate districts of Marylebone and St. Pancras, and, as a
further means of identification, the profession, or trade, has been specified. — G.C.
ABSALOM, —
Adam and Eve, The, Pancras
Gardens, Pancras
Tottenham Court Road
121-125, ]
Adolphus, Ensign —
Africa 175
Agrippa
Ainsworth, W. H
Albany Street ... ... 53
Albemarle, Duke of
Alford, —
All Souls' Church, Langham
Place
Allcock, — , organist
Allen, George
John
Allington 82-83
Alpha Road 101
Amelia, Princess
" Amphitheatre," The
Anne, Queen 160
Apollonicon ... ... ... ... 170
Apple Village
Archers' Hall
Argyle Rooms
PAGE
PAGE
l6g
Argyle Street
.- I83
157
Arlington, Henry Earl of...
6
157
Arne, T. A
08
Arlington, Isabella, Countess of
... 119
161
Armstrong, Sir Thomas
... 70
181
T *~l T*
Arnold, Lieut.
... 80
T75
Artillery Ground
. . . iii
... 82
7O
Lane
81
Street
81
6
Arundel, Richard Earl of ...
3
155
Augustus Street
••• 53
Austen, Family of ...
4
*y _^ Q
John
I IO
I55
j
d *• T^-\V»T-i T<i»-4-
4
25
23
Austin, John...
/ j
2-83
Athens, Temple of the Winds
••• 54
IOI
Axtell, — , a regicide
... 70
i 73
184
BACHOFFNER, DR.
... 171
1 60
Bacon, Elizabeth
... 141
I7O
Francis... ...
25
/"
65
Tnhn R A
140-141
J ULLlly ±.\.,r\» ... ...
85
nS
Bagnigge, Family of
— "HniiQp TOic. i
... 148
r/*S. T An
2l6
INDEX.
Bagnigge River ... ... 147
- Wash 147
- Wells 122, 148-155, 190
Baker, William ... 190
Bale, Bishop 69
Balthorp, Richard 188
Bampfylde, Sir C. W., Bart. ... in
Bank of England, The 167
Bardwell, William ... ... 168-170
Baretti, Giuseppe ... ... 23, in
Barking Abbey ... ... ... 3
Barkstead, — , a regicide ... ... 70
Barn Field ... ,. ... ... 56
Barnet Races ... ... ... 72
Barrow Hill ... ... ... ...75-78
Barry, James... ... ... 103-104
Basset, Fulke, Bishop of London 173
Bassompierre, The Marshal de ... 69
Battle Bridge 125, 126, 146, 149,
150, 158, 182, 186, 188, 201, 213
Bayham Street ... ... ... 191
Baynes, Walter 147
Bayswater ... ... ... ... 84
Beattie, James ... ... ... 62
Beck, Rev. - ... ... ... 139
Bedford, Duke of 59, 84
John, Duke of... ... ... 193
Arms, Camden Town ... 209
House ... ... ... ... 59
- Square 85, 179
Bedloe, Capt. William 76
Behnes, The sculptor ... ... 29
Belgrave Street 183
Bell Field 51, 52
Bell, Dr. William 73
Bennett, George 185
Bentinck, Lord George, Statue of 62
Bentinck Street
Beresford, John
Beresford, Mary
Bergavenny, Lord ...
Berkeley, William, Marquis
Berners, Charles
Street
Street Hoax
of
Berridge, Rev. — ...
Berry, Henry
Bertie, Charles
Bethlem Hospital ...
Bethnal Green
Bevington's Apollonicon
Bevis, Dr. John
Bibbins, Jos....
Bilson's Farm
Birchin Lane
Birnie, —
Bishopsgate ...
Black Mary's Hole...
Blackfriars Bridge ...
Blair, Capt
Blandford Square ...
Street ...
Blessed Mary's Well
Blewhouse Field
Bloomsbury ...
Street
" Blue Bottles"
" Posts," The
" Stocking Club," The
Blunt, William
Boadicea, Queen
" Boarded House," The ...
Boleyn, Queen Anne
Bolsover Street
PAGE
IOI-IO2
••• 135
••• 134
4
4
... 90
47, 102-103
102-103
... 139
... 76
6
... 197
160
... 170
149-152
... 80
... 47
... 127
... 109
... 81
147-148, 150
83, 146
... 80
... 64-65
... 103
148, 150
... 56
146
... 84
... 80
... 123
... 62
190
126
...40-41
... 177
... 103
INDEX.
217
Bolton & Sparrow, Messrs.
Bond Street ...
Bononi, Joseph
Booth, —
Boscowen, Lieut.
Boston, New England '...
Bos well, James
Bow Church, Cheapside ...
Middlesex
- Street
Bower Theatre, The
Box, —
Boydell, Alderman ...
Bradshaw, John
Braham and Yates, Messrs.
Brampton Bryan
Castle
Brandon, Gregory
, R.
109,
Braughing, Manor of
Bray, Sir Reginald...
Braybrooke, Robert, Bishop of
London ... ... ... n
Breadalbane, Earl of
Brick Field
Brill, The ... ... 115, 117, 150,
Bringhurst, — (constable)
Brisco, John ...
Britannia Theatre, The
British Museum ... ... 9,
Broad Street
Street, St. Giles's
Brocklesby, Dr. R
Brooking, Charles ...
Brougham and Vaux, Lord
Broughton, — (prize-fighter)
Broughton's Amphitheatre
PAGE
PAGE
III
Brown, John...
8
212
Browning, E. B
... 106
64
Brunt, — (a shoemaker) ...
... 107
155
Brunswick, The Duke of ...
•v J55
80
T-TrmT- nf
... 126
...
141
145, 207
oquare ... ... ...
132
Bryanston Square
...65-66
167
Buckingham, Duke of
42, 70
167
Buckingham Street...
... 103
140
Buckland, F. T
... 207
155
"Bumble-puppy," a game...
... 124
155
Bunhill Fields
... 82
136
Burke, Edmund
62, 103
69
Burn, J. S.
3O
•j
171
Burton, Decimus ... 53,
54, 89, 164
9
Burton-way (Field) ...
... 56
9
Butcher's Field
... 51
75
Bute, Earl of
... 72
H3
Byron, Lord ...
... 25
173
4
CABBELL, GEORGE ...
... 61
> 15
142
56
213
122
189
155
139
I38
44
132
196
206
42
123
" Cabinet Theatre," The
Caesar, Julius
Julius
... 185
115, 126
... 177
Caledonian Church, Hatton Garden 142
Calthorpe, Lord
Cambridge, Duke of
Camden, Earl
Lady
Town
204
199
118
181
...117, 146, 191, 209
Campbell, Thomas 105
Canewood ••• 213
Cannon Street ... ... 167
Cansick, F. T. ••• ^34
Cantelows ... in, 187, 189
Canterbury Cathedral ... 172
Capper's Farm 210-211
2l8
INDEX.
Carey, John 6
Carleton, John de 119
Carlton House ... ... 53
Carnaby Market 138
"Carpenter's Arms" The 68
Cartwright, Richard 91
Gary, George Saville 36
Casali, The Chevalier ... 198, 200
Casley, Mr., Keeper of the Cot-
tonian Library ... ... ... 10
Castle Street East 103, 104
Castlereagh, Lord 108
Casvelhan, King ..>. 116
Catalini, Madame ..' 185
Catherine, Queen, of Braganza ... 84
Catholic Apostolic Church, Gordon
Square I42'I43
Catley, Anne 35
Cato, Street 106-109
Cave, Walter 204
Cavendish Square ... 61-62, 104, 127
Chad, Capt 185
Chaldfleet ... -. 174
77.
Chalk Farm ...
Chambers, Sir William
Chambre, Sir Allen...
Chancery Lane
Chandos, John Duke of
Chantrey, the sculptor
Chapman, Rev. Mr.
Charles I. ... 5,
II
Charles Thomas
Charity School, St. Pancras
Charlotte Street
Charlotte's, Queen, Lying-in Hospital
167
25
161
160
61
29
18
69, 70, 119, 198
5, 55, 84, 148
187
192-193
84, 104
57
Chartley
Chatterton, Thomas
Cheapside
Chelsea Hospital
Chesterfield, Philip Earl of
- Philip Dormer, Earl of
Street
... 119
136-137
... 167
... 197
••• 55
••• 55
... 183
... 163
Charterhouse, The
167, 197
Chilham Castle, Kent
Chingford ... ... ... ••• 88
Chipping Barnet . . ... ••• 189
Chiswell Street 82
Christ Church, Stafford Street ... 28
Christ's Hospital 197
Church, John 83
Clare Market 44
Clarence, Duke of 142
Clarke, G. S 28
Clarke, Sir William 6
Claxton, Mr 37
Clayton, William 72
Cleeve, Thomas 188
Clerkenwell ... 146, 149, 155, 167, 186
Clinch, George 68
Clinch, Tom ... ... ... ... 69
Clipstone Steeet ... ... ... 99
Cloudesley, Richard ... ... 132
College, James 72
i Collier, William 73
Collins, — , a nurseryman... ... 182
Colosseum, The ... ... 164-171
Connaught Place 68
Constable, John ... .. ... 104
Coombe Bassett ... ... ... 190
Cooper, Lieut. John ... ... 182
Copenhagen House ... ... ... 213
Coppice Row ... ... ... 149
Coram, John ... 193
INDEX.
219
Coram, Thomas 193, 196, 197, 199-201
Corbet, — , a regicide 70
Cornhill 167
Cornwall, Barry 104, 207
Terrace... ... 53, 97
Corpus Christi College, Oxford ... 83
Cosmorama, The ... ... 172-173
Cotes, Francis, R.A. ... ... 104
Coutts & Co. 127
Covent Garden Theatre .. 44, 169
Coventry, Thomas 188
Cowley, Abraham 97
Cowper, William 54, 62
Grace Collection, British Museum
32, 54. 156
Cramer, William 25
Crassus, M 115
Craven, John 190
Chapel 139
Crompton, Lieut. John 181
Cromwell, Oliver 5, 69, 82, 121, 126, 199
Crosby Square ... 139
Crown Street... ... ... ... 139
Crozet, — , carver in
Cruickshank, George 70
Cumberland, William Duke of ... 61
Square 53
Cupid ... 35
Cutler, Gray 37
Cyclops, The 35
Cyclorama, The, of Lisbon ... 170
DALLING, JAMES 38
Danson, — ... ... ... ... 170
Dare, Lieut. ... ... ... ... 80
Dark, — 86
Darwin, Charles 208
Davey, Sir Humphrey 89
Davidson, — (a man of colour) ... 107
Davis, Miss, a vocalist ... ... 33
Dawson, Nancy ... ... ...43-44
Day, Charles... ... ... ... 60
"Deadly Never Green" ... ... 67
De Courcy, Rev. — ... ... 139
De Kaunteloe ... ... ... 118
Dekker, Thomas ... ... ... 75
Delamain, Lieut. ... ... ... 80
De la Place, Mr 7
Denis, Sir Peter 190
Derby, Earl of ... ... ... 4
Derrick, — , a hangman 75
Deschamps, John ... ... ... 19
Despair, Giant ... 158
Destrode, Charles 190
Devonshire Terrace... ... ... 105
Dickens, Charles ... 105, 207, 208
Dickie, - 155
Dimmock, — , a coachmaster ... 72
Diocletian, Emperor ... ... 131
Diorama, The 171, 172
Dissenting Chapels in Marylebone 29-30
Dixon, Capt. John 181
Dixon, Mrs 181
Dodd, Dr 74. 75> 208-209
Domesday Book, The ... 118-119
Dorset Square 64, 86
Douce, Mr 10
Sir Edmund 21
Doughty Street , ... 207
Downing, Edward 57
Downman, Lieut. John ... ... 181
Drury Lane Theatre ... 44, 99
Dryden John... ... 75, 97, 153
Dudley, Sir Robert 119
220
INDEX.
Dun, " Esquire "
Duncannon, Viscount
Duncomb, George .
Dupper Field
"Dust-hole, The" ...
Dutch Barn Field ...
Dyer, H. M
75
80
118
52
185
56
60
HALING 73
East India House, The 167
East Mouldsey, Surrey ... ... 188
Eastbourne 92
Edgware Road , 68, 106
Edmondson's Barn... ... ... 45
Edmonton ... ... ... ... 174
Edward the Confessor ... ... 57
-II 175
- Ill 176
Edwards, — (a spy) ... 108-109
Grace
"Eight String Jame"
Eldon, Lord Chancellor ...
Eldeva
Eleanor, Queen of Henry III.
Elgin Marbles
Eliot, George ..
Elizabeth, Queen ... 4, 69, 119,
Elliott, Adjutant William
Elm Tree Road
Elonore, Alexander... ... ... 134
Mary 134
Epping Forest 88, 167
Erechtheium, The ... ... ... 137
Erldesby, William de 176
Essex ... ... ... ... ... 167
Etna, Mount... ... ... ... 35
Euston Road 58
190
72
177
57
169
65
1 20
182
104
Evans, Marian ... ... ... 65
Eve, Francis... ... ... ... 132
Laurentia ... ... ... 132
Robert 131-132
Thomas 132
Exeter... ... ... ... ... 93
John Holland, Duke of ... 177
Lord 184
Exhibition, The Great, of 1851 164, 170
Eyre, Samuel ... ... ... 55
" Arms, The" 56
FAGS-WELL , 146
Fairlop Oak, The ... ... ... 137
Faraday, Michael 103
Farringdon Road ... ... ... 146
— Street 146
Felton, John... ... ... ... 70
Female Charity School ...190, 192-193
Ferguson, James ... ... ... 25
Ferrand, — (performer upon the
bariton) ... ... ... •••33'34
Ferrers, Joan, Lady ... ... 119
Lord
Robert, Lord
Fetter Lane ...
Fielding, Sir John
Figg, James ...
Finsbury
Street
Fitzalan, Joan
Fitzclarence, Capt
Fitzroy, Hon. Charles
Rt. Hon. Gen.
Square ... ... ... ... 109
Five Acres, The 51
Flanders, Mr. 37
...70-71
... 119
.. 187
... 72
24, 40-42
- 45
... 82
4
109
... 119
139, 190
INDEX.
221
Flaxman, John
Fleet-Ditch
Fleet, River
Street
Flower, Prof. W. H.
Foley, Lord ...
Street
Forbes, Mr. ...
George . .
Fordyce, John
Forset Family Vault
Forset, Arabella
Edward
103
150
131, 146, 150
167, 191
89
28
104
32
... 38
• • 5°' 51. 53
18
4
4>5
81
189, 191
Fort Street ...
Fortress Field
Foundling Hospital, The
44, 117, 145, 149, 193-201
Fountayne, Rev. John ... 7, 98-99
Four Acre Field ... ... ... 56
Foyster, Samuel 141
Franklin, Benjamin 197
" Fraternitye of St. George " ... 81
French Chapel 30, 37
Refugees 132
Revolution 91, 132
Frenchbourne, Simon ... ... 187
Fuller, Thomas 68
Fuseli, Henry 102, 104
GAINSBOROUGH, THOMAS
Gardiner, Messrs. ...
Charlotte
• 197
• 155
. 177
87, 88
Garnerin, A. J
Garraway's Coffee House, Cornhill 161
Garrick, Mrs. 98
Gaunt, Elizabeth ... ... 75
Gay, John, the poet 42
PAGE
Geary, Stephen .. 128
Gell, Thornhill ... ... ... 204
George II 195, 199
III., Jubilee of ... ... 65
IV. 84, 91, 126, 128, 202, 203
"George and Blue Boar, The"... 69
George Street ... 80, 104, 205, 208
Gibbs, — a vocalist ... ... 155
James 22
Gibbon, Edward ... ... 101-102
Gibbons, Grinling ... ... ... 134
Rev. Thomas ... ... :.. 139
Gibson, Thomas ... ... ... 6
Giffard, Dr. Andrew 139
Gilpin, William ... ... ... 137
Gloucester, Duke of ... ... 202
Gloucester Gate 173
Glyptotheca, The 168, 169
Goddard, — 96
Godfrey, Sir E. B 76-77
Godwin, Mary ... ... ... 208
- M. W. ... 135
Goldington Street ... ... ..- 117
Goldsmith, Oliver 62
Gordon, Lord George 138
House Academy 161
Riots 177
Square 142
Goswell Street 167
Gothic Aviary 17°
Gough, Mr., proprietor of Maryle-
bone Gardens 32
A. D ... I31
Daniel ... 37
Gould's Gift iQ1
Gower Street ... 84, 179, 208
Grafton, Charles, Duke of ... 119
222
INDEX.
Graham, James
- Sir James, Bart.
Grand Junction Road
Gray, Family of
Gray's Inn Lane 107,
- Inn Road
Gravel Pit Field
Great Coram Street
- Field
- Garden Field ...
- Hill Field
- Robin's Field'...
- Titchfield Street
Grecian Theatre, The
Green, G. P.
- Robert
- Berry Hill
Lane, The
Street
123,
. . . 204
... 25
... 84
... 131
158, 190
147, 203
208
Greenland Place, Somerstown
Greenwich
- Hospital
Gregory the Great ...
Greville Street
Grey, Samuel
Griffin, Mr., Showman
Griffith, Charles
Grosvenor, Rev. Benjamin
- Square
... 56
... 56
... 56
in
••• 155
... 199
.. 76
•••75-76
... 47
... 187
... 188
190
167, 197
202
6
44
153
J39
1 08
71, 72,
Gwynne, Eleanor ...
HACKER, — a regicide
Hainault Forest, Essex
Hallam, Henry
Hamey, Baldwin, M.D.
Hamilton, Major
Emma, Lady ...
70
•• 137
106
.. 191
.. 79
99-100
Hamilton, Sir William ... 99-100
127
5i
'» 187
140
138, 192
Hampton-upon-Thames ... ... 191
Handel, G. F. .. 98, 99, 184, 199, 200
Hanging Field ... ... ... 56
Harcourt, Lieut
John, M.P
Hammond, Thomas
Hampstead, 44, 45, 97, 146, 149,
- Churchyard
Road
Street
Hardwicke, Lord Chancellor
Philip, R.A
Thomas
.. 80
•• 57
57. 61
.. 56
,. 106
25, 28
Hardy, Capt.
Harleian Manuscripts
Harley, Edward, Earl of Oxford
and Mortimer
Lady Margaret Cavendish ...
185
, 10
Street
Harrington, Earl of
Harris's Field
Harrison, Col. Thomas
Wilmot
Harrowby, Lord
Hatton Garden
Street
4
4
9
104
... 71
5i
5
... 103
1 08, 109
142, 194, 202
... 140
Hayley, W
Hayman, Francis ...
Haymarket, The
Haytley, — artist ...
Hawkins, —
Heale & Son, Messrs.
Heathcote, Dr.
... 197
125, 127
... 197
... 154
210, 2TI
... 198
INDEX.
223
Heneage, Thomas ... ... ... 57
Henning, — Junr. ... ... ... 169
Henrietta Maria, Queen ... ... 69
Henry III 170, 173
- VII. 's Chapel, Westminster
Abbey 69
- VIII 81, 120, 177
Hensey, Dr 71
Heron, William 186
Hertford, Marquis ... ... 54, 64
Hertfordshire 167
Heslop, Rev. Archdeacon ... 25
Heyfield, Joanna 41
Hidon, — ... ... ... ... 109
High Street, St. Giles's 68
Highgate, 125, 146, 149, 161, 167,
186, 188, 189, 191, 196
Archway 167
- Hill 202
Highmore, A. ... ... ... 202
Joseph ... ... ... ... 197
Highway Robbery at St. Pancras 212
Hill, Lawrence ... . . ... 76
— Richard 118
- Sir Richard 52
Rev. Rowland 139
Field 51
Hinde, Jacob ... ... ... 6
Peter 6
Hoare, Henry ... ... ... 204
Prince 198
Hobson, Thomas 4
Hocher, Mr., Deputy Keeper of
the Records in the Tower ... 10
Hodgkinson, Sampson ... 22, 36
Hogarth, William 42, 123, 195,
196, 197, 199
Hogarth's "Rake's Progress" ... 16-18
Holborn 68, 117, 125, 140, 144,
145, 158, 162, 167
" Holborn Bars. The " 123
Holcroft, Thomas ... ... ... 99
Holdbrook, Richard ... ... 52
Holebourne, The River ... 146-148
Holland, John, Duke of Exeter ... 177
Holies, John, Duke of Newcastle 4
Holt & Scheffer, Messrs. ... ... in
Holy Maid of Kent 69
- Trinity, Priory of, Aldgate, 173-174
Holy Trinity Church, Marylebone 28
Home Field 52
- Seven Acres Field ... ... 51
Hone, William 123, 124
Honorable Artillery Company, The
81, 82
Hone, William 161
Hood, Lord 77, 106
Thomas ... ... ... 104
Hook, Theodore ... ... 102, 103
Hooper, Ann 187
Hoppner, John 138
Horn, Thomas ... ... ... 17
Horn Castle 56
Rev. Thomas Hartwell ... 10
Horner, — (of Rathbone Place)... 170
Hornor, Thomas .. 164, 165, 170
Hornsey ... ... •• 191
Hotham, Lord ... ... 77
Hoxton 81, 167
Hoyle, Edmund ... 24
Hudson ... 199
Hughes, — , proprietor of Bagnigge
Wells I51* J52
Hunt, — , card-maker m
224
INDEX.
Hunt, Leigh 104
Hunting in Marylebone Park
Huntingdon, Countess of ...
Mr.
Hyatt, Rev. John ...
- Miss, a vocalist
Hyde Park
5
... 141
... 30
139
••• 34
77, 84, 167, 181
INGS, — (a butcher) ... ... 107
Inner Circle 89
Innoculating Hospital 213
"Inns of Court HoJel, The" ... 69
Insula, William de, .Earl Warren,
&c 3
Invvood, William 137
Ipsley, Sir John ... ... ... 5
Ireton, Henry ... ... ... 69
Irving, Rev. Edward ... 105, 142
Islington
Ive, Family of
Richard
Thomas
58, 81, 120, 147,
149, 167, 1 86, 187
132
... 132
132
"JACK PUDDING " ...
" Jack Spaniard"
Jackson, John
Jacob, John ...
Jacobson, Theodore...
Jacomb, Lucy
- Robert
Jacombe, William ...
James I.
Jameson, Anna
Jeffrey, Nicholas
Jeffreys, Sir Jeffery...
John
44, 162
... 162
... 191
6
.. 199
6
6
6
4, 120
.. 105
.. 118
.. 118
118
Jenkins's Nursery ...
Jenner, Dr. William
" Jew's Harp, The "
- Harp, Islington
John, King ...
Johnson, — , pugilist
Lieut
Dr. Samuel
Jones, Humphry
Inigo
John
Nathan
Jonson, Ben ...
Joss, Rev. Torial
PAGE
60
2O2, 2O6
45. 47. 49. 125
... 49
120, 121
211
80
...62, 104, 132
136
61
... 191
... 72
196
139
KAUNTELOE 118
Kean, Charles 208
Kempton 188
Kendall, Richard 51, 52, 120
Kenrich, Dr. William ... ... 36
Kensett, — , cabinet-maker ... in
Kensington Gardens ... 84, 167
Kent, Duchess of ... ... ... 203
Kent, Holy Maid of 69
Kentessetonne ... ... ... 132
Kentish Town 118, 133, 139, 146,
161, 186, 187, 189, 213
Kentish Town Volunteer Association 1 8 1
Ketch, Jack 75
Kilbornecroft 133, 191
Kilburn Bridge no
King, Philip 118
" King's Ancient Concert Rooms,
The " 184
Cross ... ... 117, 125-128
" Cross Theatre, The " ... 185
Head Court 187
INDEX.
225
King John's Palace...
Kingsthorp
Kinsman, Rev. — ...
Kneller, Sir Godfrey
Knerler, — , a violinist
Knight, Charles
Rev. Joel
- J.P., R.A.
Knightly, Rose
LAFFAN, SIR J. DE C.
" Lamb," the public-house
Lamb, Charles
Mary
FACIE
12O
139
196
33
65
139
193
133
Lever, Sir Ashton ... ... ...82, 85
Leverett, — ... ... ... ... 211
101, 196
101
William
Lamb's Conduit ... 144,
Conduit Fields
Conduit Street
Lambert, George
— Sir Henry
Lambeth
Lampe, Mrs., Jun., a vocalist
Landseer, Sir Edwin, R.A.
Lanza, Gemaldo
La Roache, Eleanor
Leadenhall Street ...
Lebartz, John
Lee, Walter ...
Lee & Sons, Messrs. Henry
Leech, John ...
Leeds, Duke of
Leicester House
Square
Lejeune, Capt. Phillip
Lely, Sir Peter
Leo X., Pope
Lever, Sir D'Arcy ...
p
... 144
145, 146
2OO, 2OI
149, 194
196
80
190
••• 34
1 04
... 184
••• 72-73
... 167
... 177
... 19
... 179
... 207
6, 2OI
83, 84
83, 209
... 181
... 149
... 198
82
Leverton & Chawner, Messrs.
Leyton, Essex
Lichfteld
Light Horse Volunteers
Lilestone, Manor of
Lisbon, Cyclorama of
Lisson Fields
- Green . .
Grove
203,
Little Blewhouse Field
- Hay Field
— Robin's Field ...
- Titchfield Street
Welbeck Street
Liverpool Street
Lloyd, William
Dr. Williams
Locker, E. H.
Lockhart, Mrs.
J. G. ...
53
176
158
204
••• 57
170
••• 57
•-57-58
46, 57-58
... 56
... 56
56
... 99
... 65
127, 183
... 57
... 77
...87-88
106
1 06
Loders-well ... ... ... ... 146
Lodge Field 52
Lollards, The 68
Lombard Street ... ... ..-. 127
London Association, The ... ... 177
Defences of, 1643 117
Grand Panorama 169
- Skating Club 85
Tower of ... 167, 173, 176
Long's Bowling Green, Marylebone 43
Long, Robert 37
Forty Acres ...
Mead, The
Lord, Thomas
Lord's Cricket Ground
38
... 51
... 51
... 86
64, 181
226
INDEX.
" Lousy Jack " ... ... ... 140
Lover, Samuel ... ... ... 105
Lowe, Thomas ... 33, 35, 36, 37, 38
Ludgate Hill 167
Lully, Raymond, a Jew of Terragona 176
— , , of Palma ... ... 175
Lyell, Sir Charles 104
Lysons, Daniel ...115, 116, 118, 130
Lyttelton, Lord ... ... 62, 63
MARYLEBONE, ANCIENT NAME ... 3
- Domesday Account of ... 3
- Old Church of ... ... 100
- Bowling Green ... 42, 43
- Celebrities ... •••93> 101-106
- Cricket Clab 86-87
- Farm ... ... ... 53, 90, 120
- Gardens ... ... 30-39, 98
- Lane ... ... ... ... 80
- Manor House... ... ... 6-8
- Park ... 48, 50-53, 55, 123-124
- Road ... 39, 40, 46, 58, 104
Volunteers, The
Macbeth, Lady
Macclesfield, Earl of
Macdonald, William
Macnamara, Captain
Macready, W. C. ...
Maiden Lane
Maize Hill, Greenwich
Manby, - 82
Manchester, Duke of
- Square ... ... 64, 96, 101
Mandubrace, King of London 115
79
98
199
177
77
'05
213
190
Marsden, William ...
Mapother, E. D., M.D. ...
Margaret Street
Margate
Mark Antony
Marryat, Frederick ...
Martin, John...
Matilda, Queen of King Stephen
Mays, Miss, a vocalist
Mead, Dr. ...
Mecklenberg Square
Medley, Rev. -
Mensall, Alexander ...
Mer de Glace
Messer, — , a coach-builder
Methodists
Middle Field
- Temple, The ...
Middlesex
- Hospital, The 89
Midland Railway Company
Middleton, Thomas...
Miller, John
- Major Commandant James
Mansfield, Lord
Mansion House
Marsden, A. E., M.D.
64
183
116
... 213
64, 167
204
Mills, J. N
Milne, Rev. J. G
Milner, John ...
Milton, John...
Minto, Lord ...
Mitchie, Andrew
Montague, Hon. Edward ...
- Elizabeth
House ...
- Lady Mary Wortley...
- Matthew
- Square ... ... 65, 66,
Montgomery, Lieut. -Col.
PACE
202
I04
III
92
126
I O6
54
34
199
'45
... 161
... 170
in
••• 93
... 56
.. 104
... 167
-92, no
... 134
••• 75
... 187
.. 181
... 191
... 204
57. 199
... 97
... 77
... 38
... 62
... 62-63
... 62-63
... 42
... 63
104, nt
... 77
INDEX.
227
6, 53
Moore, George
Thomas
Moorfields
Mont Blanc
Morgan, James
& Pugin, Messrs.
Morland, --
George ...
More, — , a grocer ...
Morrant, John
Morris, Sir Christopher
Mortimer, Richard ... ...
Street ... ... ... 10
Moscow
"Mother Redcap, The" ...
Munden, Joseph
Murray, Lady
Muswell Hill...
133,
204
104
138
170
• 55
171
138
33
191
81
52
in
158
117
161
92
167
.NAPLES
Napoleon I. ...
Nares, Rev. Robt.
Nash, John ...
National Gallery
Neale, Lieut.
" Nelson," Horatia
Lord
Nether Paddock
New London Tavern, Cheapside
Oxford Street ...
River Company
- Head
Road, The ... 57, 58-61, 213
100, 125
89, 158
10
6, 53> 55
... 198
... 80
99-101
77, 99-100
... 52
20:
84
144
149
" Royal West London Theatre,
The" 184
Newbury Port , 141
Newcastle, Duke of... ... ... 4
Newgate '... 68, 73, 74, 167
Market 166
Newman Street ... ... ... 105
Nichol, Isabel ... ... ... 191
Nine Acres, The ... ... ... 56
Noel, Capt 185
Nollekens, Joseph ... ... 73, 74, 105
Nollet, Michel Eloy ... ... 30
Norden, John ... 129-130, 131
North Bank 65, 86
" London Athenaeum, The" 185
— or University College
Hospital ... ... ... 205-206
North Road, The 167
Northumberland, Duke of ... 90
Nottingham Street ... ... ... 80
OAK TREE FIELD ... ... ... 56
Gates, Titus 76
Okey, — , a regicide ... ... 70
Old Bailey 73
— Farthing Pie House, The 46, 47, 59
- Street 149
Oldcastle, Sir John 149
Oldenshaw, Phillis ... ... ... 133
- WTilliam 133
Oliver, Mr '... 100
Onslow, Mr. Speaker 48-49
Orange Street Chapel ... ... 209
O'Rourke, Paddy 155
Osnaburgh Street ... • • 53
Ossultone Hundred 57
Otto, M., French Ambassador ... 63
Overbury, Sir Thomas 69
Oxford, Edward, Earl of 10
- Earl of 4, 9, 106
Lord 62
228
INDEX.
Oxford House
- Road ..
Street
... 8-10
...72-84
96, no, 167
Ozealey, — 155
PACHE, Miss 184
Paddington 45,58,98,123-124, 139, 149
"- - Drag, The" 123
Paine, J. ... ... ... ... 90
Paley, William 130
Palma, Majorca 175
Palmer, Eleanor 191
John ... ... ... ... 191
- Samuel ... ... 136, 185, 192
Pancras, Manor of 119-20
- Road 131
- Wash ... 148
- Wells 156-157
Pancratius, Saint ... ... ... 131
Panizzi, Sir Anthony .. ... 180
Park Crescent ... ... ... 53
Lane ... ... ... ... 67
- Square ... 53, 171
- Village East ... ... . 53
- West ... ... ... 53
Parkes, John .. ... ... ... 41
Parkinson, James ... ... ... 83
Parsons, Rev. Edward ... ... 139
Parris, E. T.... ... ... 166, 169
Parrot, An old, at Marylebone
Manor House ... ... ... 8
Pasqualis, Francis ... ... ... 184
Peake, John ... ... ... ... 140
Pearce, Matthew ... ... ... 140
Pears, — , perfumer... ... ... in
Peckwell, Dr. ... ... ... 139
Pennant, Thomas ... ... ... 42
PAGE
Pentonville 58, 147, 167
Pepys, Lieut. John .. ... .. 182
- Samuel ... ... ... ... 31
Percy Chapel ... ... ... 193
Pericles ... ... ... ... 137
Perny, Bernard ... ... ... 30
- Henry 191
Peto & Grissell, Messrs. ... 164
Peto, Sir Morton, Bart 172
Piccadilly 167
Piercy, Rev. - 139
Pightle (Field) 51
Pinder of Wakefield, The... 125, 148
Piozzi, M 185
Pitt, James 192
- William 106
- Street 140
Platt, William 188
Plowden, Lieut. ... ... ... 80
Plunket, Oliver ... 70
Pool, Miss 184
Pope, Alexander ... ... ... 62
Porter, David .. 65
Portland, Duke of 25, 28
- William, 2nd Duke of ... 4
- William H. C. B., Duke of 24
- Margaret Cavendish ... ... 9
- Family Vault 18, 24
- Place 48, 53
— Road ... 44
Portman Square ... ... ...62-64
Family ... ... ... ... 62
Portsmouth ... ... ... ... 70
Post Office, The New (General)... 167
Pott, Archdeacon ... ... ... 198
Pound Field 52
Pownall, Lieut So
INDEX.
229
PAGE
"Philharmonic, The" 185
Philippa, Queen of Edward III..., 176
Phillips, T 80
Phipps, Lieut. -Col. ... ... ... 79
Phoenix Street ... ... ... 117
Physicians, Old College of ... 166
Prance, — , a conspirator ... ... 76
Pratt Street ... ... ... ... 190
Price, — (a smith) ... ... ... 121
Primrose Hill •••47> 75-7^, 149, 167
Prince Consort, The ... ... 84
" Prince of Wales' Royal Theatre,
The" 184
Prince Regent ... 6, 53, 91, 97
Pritchard, W. T 204
Procter, B. W. ... ... 104, 207
Prospect Place, Wai worth ... 187
" Providence Chapel " ... ...29-30
Prynn, — ... 155
Pugin, A. W. N 128
Pulteney, William ... ... ... 62
" Pyed Bull, The," Islington ... 120
QUAIN, SIR JONES
, Richard
104
104
Queen Anne's Square ... ... 64
Anne Street 105
Square ... ... ... ... 117
Queen's Head and Artichoke 44-45, 124
" Theatre, The " 184
Queenhithe ... ... .. ... 173
RAD-WELL ... ... ... ... 146
Raffles, Sir Stamford 89
Rainbow Coffee House ... ... 191
Raleigh, Sir Walter 120
Ramsay, — ... ... ... ... 199
PAGE
Ramsay, Allen ... ... ... 25
Rann, John ... ... ... ... 71-73
Raphael's cartoons ... ...170, 198-199
Rathbone Place ... ... ... 170
Raworth, — , a vocalist ... ... 33
Red Lion Inn, Holborn ... ... 69
Street ... ... 144-149
"Regency Theatre, The"... ... 184
Regent's Canal ... ... ... 55
Regent's Park 48, 50-54, 78, 81,
84-88, 89, 97, 168, 172, 173, 177
- Basin ... ... ... 53
142
53. 172
in
... 25
61, 62-104
... 140
1 40
Richardson, G. ... ... .. 51
Ritchie, — ... ... ... ... 143
River of Wells, The
Square Presbyterian Church
Street
Reid, — , chair-maker
Relham, Anthony ..
Reynolds, Sir Joshua
Rhodes, A. C.
Christopher
Robarts, Curtis, & Co.
Robert Street
Roberts, Mary
Robinson, Ensign ...
P. F.
... 146
127
... 139
... 177
... 181
... 1 68
... 127
46-47, 150
... 118
... 116
104
•••43-44
•••37-42
Rotherhithe ... 193
Roumieu, — 131
Rowley, Dr 138
Robson, John
Rocque's map of London ...
Roehampton ...
Rome ...
Romney, George
Rose of Normandy, The ...
Tavern, Marylebone ...
230
INDEX.
Royal Academy 198
- Botanic Society 84-89
"Royal Clarence Theatre, The"... 185
Exchange, The ... ... 167
- Free Hospital, The ... 202-206
" Royal King's Cross Theatre, The " 185
Panarmonion Gardens 182-184
- Toxophilite Society, The ...81-86
"Royalty, The"
Rubens, P. P 198
Rugg Moor ... ... .. 52, 120
Ruggemere, Manor of ... ... 120
Rush worth & Co. .'..
Russell, Lord John...
John
Rye House Plot
Rysbrach, J. M
SADLER, THOMAS
Sadler's Wells
St. Andrew
St. Andrew's, Holborn
Churchyard, Holborn
Hall
24.
St. Anne's, London...
St. Bartholomew's Hospital
St. Botolph, Aldgate
St. David
St. Dunstan's Church
- Villa
St. Chad
Portrait of
St. Chad's Row
- Well
St. Ethelburg, Bishopgate...
St. George
St. George's, Bloomsbury ...
... 127
203
... 25
70, 75
38, 197
... 70
44. l85
... 128
... 146
... 202
... 105
... 191
... 167
... 174
... 128
••- 54
•••54-55
• • 158
160
... 161
158-161
. . 167
... 128
... 146
St. George's Hospital
— Row, Bayswater
197
57
St. Giles's ... ... ... ... 146
Bowl 68-69
Pound ... ... ... ... no
St. Helena 89
St. James's Church ... ... ... 138
Palace ... ... ... ... 53
Street ... 127
St. John of Jerusalem, Hospital of 55, 57
St. John's Street 155, 167
- Wood 55, 86, iii
Great ... ... ... 55
Chapel ... ... 29, 96, in
Lane 56
- Little, at Highbury ... 55
St. Katharine's Lane ... ... 177
St. Katharine, Royal Hospital of 173-178
St. Martin-in-the-Fields 161
St. Mary's Church, Wyndham
Place ... ... ... 26
St. Mary Woolnoth, Church of
St. Marylebone Church (Old)
St. Marylebone Church (New)
Volunteers
167
... 15-25
25-26
... 87
... 167
115-214
150. 193
••• 137
186-192
2O8, 211
181, 182
St. Patrick 128
St. Paul . ... ... ... 134
St. Paul's Cathedral 125, 131,
149, 165, 167, 168
St. Michael's, Cornhill
St. Pancras ...
- Old Church of
121, 129-137,
Church (New)...
Charities
Churchyard
Volunteers
INDEX.
231
St. Paul's, Canons of ... ... 118
- Church, Great Portland Street 29
- Cross ... ... ... ... 69
- Dean and Chapter of 119-120, 129
School ... ... ... ... 167
St. Peter ... ... 134
St. Peter's Church, Northampton 175
- Church, Vere Street 28-29
St. Sepulchre's Church ... ... 74
St. Thomas's Hospital ... .. 197
Salisbury, Earl of . . 201
Saltpetre Field ... ... ... 51
Salvation Army, The ... ... 185
Sam's Royal Library ... ... 127
Sanderson, - .. ... ... 93
Sanderson, John .. ... ... 198
Sandhills ... ... ... ... 117
Sarnen, Valley of ... ... ... 172
Scott, Sir Claude, & Co 127
Rev. Edward .. ... ... 60
— Sir Walter ... ... ... 106
Scroggs, Lord Chief Justice ... 76
Seaford ... ... ... ... 92
Selwyn, George ... ... ... 74
Seymour, Lord Robert ... ... 91
- Street 107
Shakespeare, William 63, 97, 98, 196
School of ... ... ... 36
Sharp, William 95'97
Shaw, George, M.D., &c 83
Rev. Stebbing 10
Shea, Capt 89
Shee, Sir M. A., P.R.A 104
Shelley, P. B 208
Shepherd, Robert ... ... ... 72
Shepherd's Market 139
Sheppard, Jack ... ... 68, 70
Sherlock, William 130
Shillibeer, J. ... ... ... ... 46
Shirley, James ... ... ... 68
- Rev. Walter ... ... . . 139
Shoreditch ... ... ... ... 81
Short Forty Acres ... ... ... 51
Sice, Thomas ... ... ... 17
Siddons, Mrs. Sarah ... ...97-98
Sidmouth, Lord ... .., ... 108
Six Acre Field ... ... ... 56
Six Closes, The ... ... ... 51
"Sixteen String Jack" ... ... 71
Skinners, Company of ... ... 117
- Well 146
Slipe, The (meadow) ... ... 56
Sloman ... ... ... ... 155
Small-Pox Hospital... ... 201-202
Smiles, Samuel ... ... ... 30
Smirke, Sir Robert... ... ... 26
Smith, George ... ... ... 209
J. C 200
- J- T. ... 7, 8, 73
— John ... ... ... .. 70
- Sydney ... ... ... ... 106
Thomas ... 18, 22, 36, 59
Smithers, — (Bow Street Officer) 109
Smithfield Market 58, 167
Smock Race ... ... ... ... 163
Snow Hill ... ... ... ... 144
Soane, Sir John, R.A. ... ... 28
Soho ... ... ... . . ... 76
Somers, William 72
- Town 119, 146, 147, 213
Somerset, Duke of ... ... ... 206
Edward, Duke of 57
House 76
South Kensington Museum ... 199
232
INDEX.
Southampton, Lord...
- House, Bloomsbury
Row
... 119
... 117
... 149
-93-97
... 69
... 81
64, 106
... 1 86
... 81
... 97
Southcott, Joanna ...
Southwell, Robert . .
Spanish Armada
Spanish Place
Spital House, Highgate ...
Spital Square
Spenser, Edmund ...
Spring Field... ... ... ... 56
Squibb, — , a vocalist ... ... 35
Stacye, Mrs.... 122
Stafford, A. M 90
Staines, R 60
Stamford Hill ... ... ... 167
Stanhope, Charles ... ... ... 55
- Edward... ... ... ... 187
Lady H. L. ... ... ... 106
Stanton, Francis ... ... ... 188
Stephen, King ... ... ... 173
Stewart, George ... ... ... 51
Stockwell .. ... ... ... 187
Stoddart, — , a pianoforte maker... in
Stokes, Mrs., the City Championess
40, 41
Storace, Stephen ... ... .. 23
Storer, Miss ... ... ... ... m
Stothard, Thomas ...
Stout, — , Timber Merchant
Stow, John ...
Strand, The ...
Stratford
- Place
Strode, Sir George
William, Lieut. -Gen.
Stubbs, George
... 105
in
5
127, 167
... 167
... 106
5
... 61
... 25
Stukeley, William, Dr.
Surrey, Earl of
Sussex, Duke of
Gardens
Place
Swain, Edward, Son of
Sykes, A. B
TARLTON'S JESTS
Tavistock Square ...
Tayler, Thomas
Taylor, — , a vocalist
John
Telbin, —
Temple Bar, London
Terry west, John
Thackeray, W. M. ...
Thames, River
Theseus, Temple of...
Thirty Acres, The ...
Thistlewood, Arthur
Thompson, Capt.
Sir Henry
Horatia " Nelson "
Thorney Island
Thoroughgood, - . .
Thorrington, H.
Tidd, — (a shoemaker)
"Tieburne" ...
Tilbury
- & Co., Messrs.
PAGE
II5-II6
••• 3-4
203-204
... 84
... 106
••• 57
vi.
Titus, Arch of
Tode-well
Tonbridge Chapel ...
Tornick, Matthias ...
Toole, William
Toplady, Rev. A. M.
140,
... 67
... 208
... 24
••• 33
... 67
... 170
70
... 41
... 208
167
... 170
... 52
106-109
... 80
. . . 206
... 101
...13-14
••• 155
... 183
... 107
... 68
... 81
... 60
... 170
... 146
... 139
... 138
... 92
209-210
INDEX.
233
Toppesfield, Manor of
Torrington Square ...
Totenhall, William de
Manor of
... 132
84, 208
121
II8-II9
Court I2O, 121, 122, 187, l8g, 192
Tottenham Court Road 90, 138-141,
146, 149, 157, 185, 191
Fair 161-163
Street 185
"— - Street Theatre, The" ... 184
" Theatre, The" ... 184-185
Tottingham, Mrs. ... ... 102-103
Tower Hill 177
- Street ... ... ... ... 167
Toxophilite Ground... ... ... 85
— Society 85-86
Trollope, Anthony ... ... ... 65
Triumphal Arch across the New
Road ... ... ... ... 54
Trusler, Dr. ... ... ... ... 16
John ... ... ... ... 34
Tunbridge ... ... ... ... 117
Turner, Mrs.... ... ... ... 69
— J. M. W 105
Turnmill Brook, The ... ... 146
Twenty Acres (meadow) ... ... 56
- Acre Field ... ... ... 56
Twenty-nine Acres, The ... ... 52
Twenty -two Acre Field ... ... 56
Tybourne, The River ... ... 10-14
Tyburn, Couduits at ... ... 5
Manor of ... ... 3, 4, 5
Lane ... ... ... ... 67
Road ... ... ... ... 67
" Tippet, A" ... ... 75
Tree 67-75
UNIVERSITY COLLEGE, LONDON 179-181
Upchurch, Kent 176
Upton... ... ... ... ... lyjj
Upper Baker Street 97-98
Bryanston Street 68
Usborne, Miss ... ... ... 204
Utber, Richard 118
VANE, SIR HARRY ...
Vandrebrank, John...
Vatican, The
Vennes, Miss
Venus, Temple of ...
Vere, Aubrey de, Earl of Oxford
Joan de
Robert de
Verley, Thomas
Vesta, Temple of ...
Voltaire, F. M. A. de
Victoria, Queen
Vincent, Mrs., a vocalist ...
Vulcan, Forge of, at Marylebone
Gardens ... .. ... "-35-36
119
24
1 68
in
;, 116
28
3
3
109
1 70
... 63
91, 203, 204
33-34
WALCH, MASTER - ... ... 184
Wale, Samuel, R.A. ... ... 197
Wales, — , cabinet-maker ... .. in
- Prince of ... ... 84, 203
Walker, John ... ... ... 136
Wall, Alexander ... . . ... 51
Waller, J. G. ... ... n, 13, 146
Walpole, Horace ... .. ... 59
Walsingham, Francis ... ... 38
Walter, Canon of St. Paul's ... 119
Walton ... ... ... ... 92
Wai worth ... ... ... ... 187
Wandesford, John 5
234
INDEX.
Wanley, Humphrey
Ward, -
Lieut. ...
Ward's Field
Waring, Thomas
Warren, Earl, and of Surrey
Samuel
10, 24
.. 86
.. 80
.. 65
84, 86
3
.. 208
Warton, Thomas ... ... ... 63
Warwick Street, Golden Square... 45;
Washington, George ... 139, 197
Wast, Roger 176
Waterloo, The Battle of 155
Watling Street ... 167
Watson, Caroline ... ... ... 24
Weever, John ... .... ... 131
Welch, Mr. Justice ... ... ... 74
Welderen, Count de 138
Welford, Capt. ... ... 80
Wells Street in
Wengham, Henry de, Bishop of
London ... ... ... ... 174
Wesket, John ... ... ... 71
Wesley, Rev. Charles ... 25, 139-141
- Rev. John ... 138-141, 210
West, Rev. - ... . . 139
- Benjamin, P.R.A. 26, 29, 105,
136, 142, 200
West Ham Churchyard ... ... 209
"— - London Theatre, The" ... 184
- Middlesex Waterworks ... 77
Westbourne Street ... ... ... 84!
Westminster ... ... ... 167
Abbey ... " itf-itf
- Bridge 155
- Hall 69
Wheatley, Francis, R.A. ... ... 25
White, John
- Conduit Club ...
House
- Hall Field
House Field
50, 51, 52, 6o
86
122
... 52
51, 52
Whitechapel ... ... ... ... 167
Whitefield, Rev. George ... 138-141
Wigmore, — , a pugilist ... ... 211
Street ... ... ... ... 80
Willan, Thomas ... ... 51, 52
William III 160
- IV 84, 91, 126, 203
Williams & Co. ... ... ... 1*7
- Gilly .. 74
Wilkie, David . 103
Wilkins, William, R.A 179
Wilks, Rev. Matthew ... ... 139
Willis, Thomas .. ... .. 125
Willoughby, Lord ... ... ... 57
Willow Tree Field ... ... ... 56
Wills, Rev. James ... ... ... 197
Wilmot, John Eardley ... ... 24
- Lord Chief Justice 198
Wilson, Richard, R.A. no, 197, 199
Wimpole, Cambridgeshire 106
- Street ... ... ... ... 106
Windmill Street ... ... ... 90
Windsor . . ... ... ... 167
Winslow 188
Winstanley, Messrs. ... ... 170
Wither, George . . ... ..'. .124
Woburn Place ... ... ... 208
Woodville, Dr. ... .._.<* . . 202
Woolaston, Mary ... .'.. .. 150
Woollett, Elizabeth... 135
William
Whitbread, Samuel . . .
90 1 Woolley, — , a stable-keeper
135
in
INDEX.
235
•Wooton, Charles Henry, Lord
Wright, Robert
Wyatt, Capt....
- the sculptor ...
Wycherley, William
Wynn- Ellis, -
YATES, EDWARD
York, The Duke of..
York Gate
- Place
- Square
55
38
8o
29 '" Yorkshire Stingo, The"
146 Young, C. M.
204 i Ypres, William de ...
206 Zoological Gardens, The
137 - - Society, The ...
I'AGE.
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1 06
53
46, 60
.. 185
•• 173
..88-89
..88-89
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