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MATLOCK
Manor and Parish

Historical & Descriptive

WITH

Pedigrees and Arms, and Map of the Parish
reduced from the ordnance survey

BENJAMIN BRYAN

LONDON :

BEMROSE ft SONS, LIMITED, 4, SNOW HILL, E.C. ;

and DERBY.

1903.
{Att rights rtstrvtd.)

&fA\l*\ Sncu^Jt via^Uav* XoXfi .

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER PAGE

I.— The Manor i

II.— The Mother Church 26

III.— The Parish and Institutions 50

IV.— Commons, Roads, Customs, Antiquities, Etc. - 90

V.— Matlock Bath 121

VI.— Matlock Bath 141

VII. —Matlock Bath 170

VIII.— Matlock Bath 201

IX.— Matlock Bank 221

X.— RlBER AND THE WOLLEYS 243

XL— Richard Arkwright and His Invention - 254

XII.— Richard Arkwright and Willbrslby 269

XIII.— The Lead-Mining Industry 281

XIV.— The Lead-Mining Industry .... 298

ILLUSTRATIONS.
Map Frontispiece.

PAGE

Model of Arkwright's Spinning Frame . 269

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

CHAPTER I.

THE MANOR.

Name of Matlock— Fanciful Derivations — Mestesforde —
Meslach— Matlok— Mattelok— The Manor — Identified
with Meslach— Litigation in Chancery — Award— Sir
John Statham— The Copyholders Owners of the Manor-
Trustees for them— Steward— Manor House — Customary
of the Manor — Landowners — The Nightingale Family
and Estates— Pedigree— Miss Florence Nightingale.

IN formulating the history of a parish or any larger
area, it is not only desirable, but necessary, to
endeavour to trace the derivation and evolution of
the name by which it is known. In this process many
authors have indulged in fanciful speculations, and in
regard to Matlock itself there has been by no means an
absence of ingenious guessing. In an early translation of
the record of the parish in the Domesday Book, the name
was spelt Mellach, as to which a commentator has said :
" Mellach was the easy but corrupt pronunciation of
Methlock; so from Mathfield we have now Mayfield.
The sense of Methlock is the mead on the loch or lock,
which last signifies a lake as the word is used in the

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

north parts (Camden, Ramans, p. n8>, and it is certain
that the river Denrent is at this place deep and still
near the church. n# As later translators of the record of
William L have decided that the spelling of the name
therein is Meslach, all this falls to the ground, and it is
not proposed to set up any competing theory. What is
certain is that the name of the area comprising die
present parish was at the date of the Domesday Survey
Mestesforde ; that one of its berewicks was designated
Meslach ; and that since that time the name Mestesforde
has entirely disappeared, and Matlock has taken its place.

In dealing with the title of the Manor, it is proposed
to suggest when and why the name of the parish was
changed, but it may be here remarked that the change
to the spelling now current was neither made at once nor
was it invariable, as in 1291 it was written Matlok, while
Leland has it MatteloM

Several writers on the history of the county have stated
that the site of the Manor of Mestesforde is not certainly
known. No apology is, therefore, needed for going into
the matter somewhat fully in order to show that the
manor stands where it did, though the name has
been changed. The official translation of the record in
Domesday as to this manor is in these terms . —

"In Mestesforde, King Edward had two carucates of
land without geld. It is waste. There are eight acres of
meadow and a lead work. Wood, pasturable in places,

# "Add. ~MSS~ {Wolle/s) 66-67, foL 263, et seq.

f Itinerary (Alarm's Ed.), 7-34. Leland, it must be stated, was
a poor authority on orthography, as the following is his paragraph in
which the above spelling occurs : — " To Darle in the Peke, to Wen-
ne*le Village, to Mattelok Village, to Cmmford Village, and ftrough
Crumford Bridge to Watstonde Wei Bridge. " (Ttmp. I534iir

THE MANOR.

three miles long and two wide. Adjoining this manor lie
these herewites: Meslach, Sinitretone, Wodnesleie,
Bunteshale, Ibeholon, Teneslege. In these are seven
carucates of land paying geld. Land for seven ploughs.
There eleven villeins and twelve boors have six ploughs
and twenty-two acres of meadow. Wood, pasturable, two
miles long and one mile wide. Underwood as much." *

As to the origin of the name Mestesforde, the following
is from LI. Jewitt's translation and extension of the
Domesday Book of Derbyshire, 187 1 : —

"Mestesforde, or Nestesforde, I believe to have been
near what is now called Matlock Bridge, which was
formerly a ford. ' Nestes/ ' Nestus/ or ' Nesterside/ are
names of the mountain now known as the 'Heights of
Abraham/ on which is situated the Nestor Mine (now
called the Rutland Cavern), which is undoubtedly a
Roman mine, and was probably the one alluded to in the
Domesday Book as 'one lead work.' The little village
at the foot of the hill has always been known by the
name of Nestes or Nestus."

There is a note to much the same purport in Adam's

Gem of the Peak (1838), though that of Jewitt is fuller.

In Lysonses' book, which bears date 181 7, it is stated that

Mestesforde "is supposed to have been at a place now

called Nestes or Nestus, a little mining village at the foot

of a high hill on the north side of the old bath,"

i.e., Masson. But even the Lysonses' book was not the first

to promulgate the idea, for in Davies's History of

Derbyshire (181 1) the statement is made that although

* There is the following additional entry in Domesday as to this
manor under " Peurewic " (Parwich) : — " These five manors,
Derelei, Mestesforde, Werchesworde, Esseburne, and Pureuwic, with
their berewicks paid in the time of King Edward 32 It. and 6}
textaries of honey. Now 40 It. of pure silver."

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

Mestesforde "was the head of the manor in the time of
the Conqueror, it is not now known," and that " there is
a hill near Matlock Bath called Nestes, which was
formerly celebrated for having several rich lead mines
upon it, from whence it is supposed there was a ford
across the river Derwent, which was at the foot of the
hill; which ford, or the houses of the miners, which were
built near it, probably gave the name to the manor of
Metesforde or Netesforde."*

■ Step by step the supposition about the word Nestes
has been converted into an assumed fact. It is true that
there is a mine on the south side of Masson Hill, the
name of which is officially given as " Nester's " or
" Nestus " mine,t the modern title of which is the Rutland
Cavern; but Matlock Bridge, where there might have
been, and probably was, in ancient times, a ford, which
furnished the second half of the name Mestesforde, is on
the north side of Masson Hill, and a distance of more
than a mile away. Further, if the view of the authors
before quoted were adopted, there would still be the
difficulty of the difference between the initial letters of
Nester's and Mestesforde to be overcome. On the whole,
the view to adopt seems to be that the name of Mestes-
forde was originally applied to a restricted locality about
the ford at Matlock Bridge on the west side of the river.
At the time of the Domesday Survey, Mestesforde was
a self-contained manor, with, as has been shown already,
six berewicks, one of them called Meslach. The time
occupied in the compilation of that great national record
was from 1080 to 1086. According to Dr. Cox,t there

* The name as written in Domesday is clearly Mestesforde.

t Farcy's Derbyshire, I., 261-4.
j Churches of Derbyshire, II., 517.

THE MANOR.

were a church and rectory at Matlock in 1291, but he
had reason to believe that the church had then existed
for some time.

It will now be shown that the present boundaries of
Matlock are co-terminous with those of Mestesforde and
its berewick of Meslach, which latter, since the change
of name, has disappeared.

Taking the ordnance plan, beginning at the apex of
the triangular boundary on the north-east, and proceeding
southward, there are — (1) Ashover, (2) Tansley, (3)
Dethick and Lea. Here comes the river Derwent, which
for some distance forms the southern boundary; south-
west of this is (4) Cromford. Ascending on the west,
towards the north of this, is — (5) Bonsall, which the
boundary line leaves on the west, going north over Masson
Hill, and passing (6) Wensley and Snitterton, now one
parish. Crossing the valley of the Derwent, and the river
itself, which bisects the parish, the line runs to (7)
Farley, then, as now, part of Darley, and (8) Darley.
Across Darley and Matlock moors it runs north, inclining
to the east, till it comes back to the place from whence
it started, namely, the apex of the northern boundary,
where it joins that of Ashover, at Canada Nursery.

In Domesday Book there are all these places outside
the boundaries of Mestesforde and its berewick Meslach,
thus — (1) Essovre, (2) Teneslege, a berewick of Mestes-
forde; (3) (Dethick and) Lede, as parts of Ashover,
the former undistinguished by the present title, but the
latter identified as the Lea of to-day: (4) Crunforde, a
berewick of Wirksworth; (5) Bunteshale (Bonsall), a
berewick of Mestesforde; (6) Sinitretone, Wodnesleie,
berewicks of Mestesforde; (7) Farleie, now, as then, part
of Darley; and (8) Dereleie.

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

The boundaries thus traced are those of Matlock at
the present day, and of Mestesforde (with Meslach) at
the time of Domesday. But so far only four of the six
berewicks have been accounted for. The fifth berewick
was Ibeholon, easily identified as Ible, beyond Bonsall,
on the west, and the sixth, most important of all, was
Meslach. It is beyond question that it was this sixth
berewick that provided the foundation of the name under
which the manor and parish have since at least the
thirteenth century been known.

Our hypothesis as to the change of name is this : The
boundaries of parishes, as is well known, were, where-
ever possible, marked by water-courses. It might,
therefore, well have been the case that the berewick of
Meslach (which seems to have disappeared at the time
of the adoption of the name of Matlock for the whole
parish) was bounded by the water-course known as
Bentley Brook, which comes down from Tansley, by the
Corn-mill, across the Green, past Knowleston Place,
the rock supporting the north side of the churchyard,
and into the Derwent. As the name Mestesforde was, it
is assumed, local to the crossing about Matlock Bridge,
the berewick of Meslach might have comprised the whole
of the present parish to the east of the Derwent and the
south of Bentley Brook. Thus Riber, Starkholmes, and
Willersley — the latter subsequently erected into a separate
manor — all local names of circumscribed areas, names
which have come into being since Domesday, or were
then unrecorded, might well have been included in the
berewick of Meslach.

The church having been built where it is — that is,
in Meslach — the name of this berewick would be appro-

THE MANOR.

priately given to it, and consequently to the parish
allotted to it, and that is the parish which, with the
manor, has come down to modern times.* It is
probable that the name Mestesforde was, if not purely
local to the ford about the site of the present Matlock
Bridge, at least limited to the parts of the manor on
the west side of the river Derwent, to the north of the
river on that side and Bentley Brook on the east. The
bridge having been erected — perhaps about the same
time as the church — and the ford abolished, the old name
was no longer appropriate, and Meslach, altered to the
better-sounding Matlock, became the name of the whole
parish and manor, t

From what has gone before, the boundaries of the
parish will have been made plain. It will have been
seen that at the date of the Domesday Survey, Matlock
formed part of the manor of Mestesforde, which was then
vested in the King. From the Crown it passed to the
family of De Ferrars, and from them became parcel of
the Duchy of Lancaster. J Wolley held the opinion that
when Robert de Ferrars was created Earl of Derby by
King Stephen, in the third year of his reign (1138), the
King gave him Matlock, etc., it being usual for the
Crown on such occasions to confer lands for the better
support of rank and dignity. If it accrued not to this
family, then William, Earl of Derby, 1 John (1199), had
a grant from the King to himself and his heirs in fee
farm of the manors of Wirkesworth and Esseburne,

* " The church, for which they chose a very proper place, became
the rise and origin of the present town."— Add. AfSS. (Wolley* s)
6,«W, f. 263.

+ Wolley thought this change had taken place in 5 John (1204). —
Ibid. 6,667, f. 263, et sea.

X Archieologia, II., 285, and III., 7.

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

together with the whole Wapentake, paying yearly to the
Exchequer £70 sterling at Midsummer and Easter by
equal portions;* and in 5 John he obtained a grant of
inheritance of these manors of Wirkesworthe and Esse-
burne with the Wapentake, for which he gave 500 marks, t
In 36 Henry III., William, son of this William, had
Matlock, and obtained free warren for it under that
name.} On the attainder of his son, Robert de Ferrers,
for espousing the cause of Simon de Montford, Earl of
Leicester, Matlock reverted to the Crown, and was granted,
7 Edward I., to Edmund, Earl of Lancaster. John of
Gaunt had it as part of the Duchy of Lancaster. It
continued attached to the Duchy till the month of Sep-
tember, 1628, when it was granted by letters patent of
Charles I. to Edward Ditchfield, John Highlow, Humphrey
Clark, and ffrancis Mosse, citizens of London, in trust
for the Corporation of the City. By an indenture made
very early in 1629, between Edward Ditchfield and the
three other citizens above named, the manor was re-sold
to John Middleton, of Wannesley, Notts., Esq., Arthur
Moore, of Milthorpe, Derbyshire, gent., Richard Senior,
of Cowley, Derbyshire, and George Heathcote, of Cut-
thorpe, Derbyshire, in trust for the copyholders. Then,
on the 14th of January, 1629, articles of agreement were
entered into between these trustees of the first part,
William Walker, Adam Wolley, and others (copyholders
of the said manor, on behalf of themselves), of the second
part, and Elizabeth Wolley, widow, the late wife of Adam
Wolley, of Riber, gent., on behalf of William Wolley,
her infant son, of the third part, declaring that the said

* Dug dale's Bar., I., 260.

t Ibid.

% Ibid. I., 202.

THE MANOR.

John Middleton and others should stand seized thereof
in trust for the benefit of the said William Walker and
others, the copyholders, according to their several
portions, shares, and interests in the said manor.

The object of these transactions was to make certain
the copyholders' rents, which the King before claimed
to be arbitrary and uncertain; and the conveyance from
the copyholders to the trustees recites that the latter are
to pay to the receiver of the Duchy of Lancaster the
rent of j£i6 ios. 3 id. at the feasts of the Annunciation
and St. Michael the Archangel by equal portions, yearly,
and to divide the profits among the copyholders in pro-
portion to the rents which they severally paid. The
deed also recites that as the sum of ^14 13s. 5d. is
the total of the rents payable by the copyholders, the
balance of jQi 16s. io£d. necessary to pay the rent to
the Crown is to be raised, collected, and paid out of
certain freehold rents, the rents payable for cottages and
other encroachments on the wastes of the manor. If
this be not done, and the trustees are in any way " dempni-
fied," they are to be saved harmless, " and it shall be
lawful for him or them to detain to his own use and
behoof the rents, issues, and profits that belong to him
or them by whose negligence or default such damage or
loss did happen." They are in the same way and by
the same means saved harmless " for any State or other
expenses that they or any of them shall be put unto for
or concerning the said manor or profits." It is also
provided that the trustees shall not at any time make
any estate of all or any of the wastes or encroachments
to any person whatever without the license and consent
of so many of the copyholders whose yearly rents amount
to £7 1 6s. 9& at the least under their hands in writing

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

before had and obtained. The trustees are also
empowered to enfranchise copyholds and convert them
into freehold "by such assurance in the law as they or
their counsel shall reasonably advise and devise." After
the death of any two of the trustees the manor was to
be conveyed by the two remaining to four new trustees
at the cost and charge of the copyholders. A schedule
is annexed containing the names of the copyholders and
the amounts of the rents for which they were severally
liable. The four highest rents were those of William
Wolley, gent, £2 8s. 8d. ; Anthony Woodward,
j£i 14s. id.; John Mellish, £1 7s.; William Walker,
j£i 5s. All the rest were under j£i, the lowest being
that of Thos. Walker, of Wirksworth, 2$d.

The profits being small in amount, they were mainly
expended at the time of holding the courts, and from
this practice the copyholders got the mistaken notion
that they had a right to shares in the manor in propor-
tion to the copyhold rents that they paid, whereas the
manor with the appurtenances was and is a freehold,
conveyed by deed and not surrendered by copy, and a
person may have no copyhold and yet be owner of all
or many shares of the royalties.*

Another consequence of the smallness of the profits
was that the trustees were not continued nor vacancies
among them filled up till all had died about the year
1699. Thereupon, Mr. Thos. Statham, having the
greatest share of the royalty, took steps to have new
trustees appointed, when all the proprietors had notice
and ascertained their shares, and by an indenture dated
the 17th of October, 1700, between John Thornhill and

» Wolley MSS. 6,668, f. 551.

THE MANOR.

Ann, his wife (grandchild and heir-at-law of William
Booth, gent., who was surviving lord of the manor), of the
first part, and Thomas Statham, gent, of the second part,
the manor was conveyed to William Turner, Michael
Burton, Arthur Dakeyne, and Exuperius Turner, gent., in
trust for the copyholders. In the same year proceedings
were instituted in the Court of Chancery against the
proprietors of the manor by Sir John Statham, knighti*
and these proceedings were kept alive till 1716, on the
25th of June, in which year an award was made by John
Port and John Berresford, Esquires, who had been
appointed arbitrators for settling and determining divers
disputes depending in the High Court of Chancery
between Sir John Statham and divers other proprietors
of the manor of Matlock respecting the rights and interests
of the manor. They found that the copyholders pur-
chased the manor as before stated, subject to the yearly
reserved rent of jQi6 10s. 3^d. payable to the King's
heirs and successors, and that part of this rent should be
raised out of certain cottages and premises, together with
£>4 I 3 S - 5^. payable by the copyholders in defined
proportions; and they adjudged and ordered that if any
persons as reeves or otherwise had received or used any
of the rents or profits they should render an account
upon notice given; that the profits of Lomas's (Lumb's)
Mill were to be paid to the proprietors of the manor;
that no estate ought to be made out of the manor by
the trustees without the consent of copyholders

* Sir John Statham was descended from Thomas, son of Captain
John Statham, of Tansley. This Thomas married the heiress of
Cromwell Meverell by a co-heiress of Denham. His son, Sir John,
married the co-heiress of Wigley, of Wigwell. Sir John's elder son,
Wigley, who was Sheriff of the county in 1735, and John, his younger
son, both died without issue, the last about the year 1794. — Lysons.

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

representing at least half the amount of the annual
rents; and that trustees to be thereafter appointed ought
to be nominated and appointed by proprietors having
a similar interest.

The following appointments of trustees for the copy-
holders have since been recorded, but the list is incom-
plete : —

1 716. — John Berresford, John Port, John Chappell,
and Charles Greaves.

1738. — Bache Thornhill and others.

1760. — Francis Radford and others.

1769. — Bache Thornhill, Brooke Boothby, Francis
Hurt, William Milnes, and Alexander Barker.

1785.— Brooke Boothby, Bache Thornhill, William
Milnes.

1798.— Bache Thornhill, Francis Hurt, Philip Gell,
John Toplis, John Holland.

181 7.— Bache Thornhill, Philip Gell, and John Toplis.

1830. — Mr. Thornhill alone survived.

187 1. —William Pole Thornhill.

1899. — Rev. Fielding Arthur Wolfe Hamilton Gell and
John Gilbert Crompton, Esq.

Mr. James Potter, solicitor, of Matlock Bridge, is the
present steward, he having succeeded Messrs. Milnes and
Newbold, in whose office he was articled. The Court
Leet and view of Frankpledge, with Great Court Baron,
are held half-yearly at Matlock and Matlock Bath
alternately.

There is a memorandum by Mr. J. Reynolds, preserved
by Wolley,* to the effect that "the manor-house of
Matlock stood betwixt the church and the parsonage

•Add. MSS.(WolUys) 6,707, f. 23.

THE MANOR.

house, nearly in the place where the house now (1770)
belonging to Mr. Nightingale stands."

The following document, described as "A Customary
of the Manor of Matlock," from the Wolley MSS.,* bears,
in the handwriting of Mr. Adam Wolley, the following
memorandum : — " Written by John Wolley, my great-great-
grandfather " : —

"We whose names are hereunder written Jury for the Court
Leet and Court Baron holden here the 9th day of May, 1666,
knowing copyhold concernments and the chief basis upon which
stands the whole fabric of our copyhold estates as one sayeth,
consuetude* tollit communem legem, therefore upon perusing this
Court's records and examination of ancient witnesses, we here
declare these here aftermentioned to be the services, rents, duties,
and some of the laws and ancient customs of the said Manor, together
with some by-laws and pains by us made as followeth, vizt. : —

"Firstly. — We say that it is in the copyholder's power to sell
his estate in his copyhold to whom he pleases, by surrender in the
Lord's Court; and that after the first surrender the Steward and
Court may perfect the estate without any further act by the vendor,
and that the custom is to surrender by the rod.

"aly. — We say that the Copyholders may surrender their Copy-
hold to the use of their last wills, and so demise the same by
their will.

" 3ly* — We say that the Lords of the Manor may license the
Copyholders to alliene by deed, always upon proviso that the rents,
duties, and services be the same as formerly.

u 4ly. — We say the Copyholders hereof may by custom of this
manor demise their copyhold estates for one, two, or three years
and no longer by deed without any forfeiture.

"5ly.— We say that the said Copyholders may surrender by
Attorney, and also give and take Livery and Seisin by an Attorney
[as well living within as without the said Manorf].

"61y. — We say that the grantee of a Copyhold estate is never
complete till admittance, yet the heir's title by descent may be
good, but the Lords may force him to be admitted.

*Add. MSS. 6,669, 554-5.

tThe words within brackets have been added by another hand.

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

"7ly. — We say that upon every admittance o! any Copyholder
there is a fine certain due to the Lords which is so much as is
their chief rent for one year for that ye are admitted for.

" 81y. — We say that every homager or freeholder is to pay upon
every descent one year's chief rent to the Lords of the Manor —
being called relief.

"gly. — We say that the Copyholders of this Manor have and
do by custom entail their lands; and that by a Recovery in the
said Lords' Court have and do and may dock and destroy the same
again by the donee in tail (except the title be in some coverts,
infants ; persons in prison ; or out of this realm ; or not of whole
mind) ; so as they or their heirs take their action or lawful entry
within five years next after the aforesaid impediment be removed.

" xoly. — We say that widows in this Manor are to have a third
part for their dower of all such lands as their husbands died solely
seized of during coverture, if he had the frank tenement and the
inheritance, simel et stmtl, during the coverture, and if he were
seized so as the child that he should beget of his said wife might
by possibility inherit the same, and if the said widows be above
9 : years of age ; or else no dower.

"uly. — We say that if a widow be hindered of her dower in
this Manor and she in this court by plaint recover the same ; she
shall have damages according to the full value of her dower from
her husband's death; if the same come to 50 or 100s., or more or
less, though the Court will not hold plea above 40s.

" i2ly. — We say the Lords of this Manor being feoffees are to
conclude anything concerning the Royalty according to the direction
of the greater part of the Copyholders, vizt., by those that pay or
by so many as pay the greater half of the chief rent to the King.

" i3ly. — We say that it is the custom of this Manor that such
estates, Agreements, Covenants, and Conditions may be made of
Copyhold land by copy as are made of freehold by deed, mutatis
mutandis,

" i4ly. — That homagers are to do their homage but once, but
fealty at every admittance, if they should be 21 years of age.

" i5ly. — We say that homagers are to be freeholders and tenants
in fee simple, or tenants in tail at least.

" i61y. — We say for every distress impounded 4d. is to be paid.

" I7ly. — We say it is the custom of this Manor to have two Court
Leets yearly, one within a month after Easter, and another within

THE MANOR.

a month after Michaelmas, and the steward is to have 6s. 8d. fees
at a Court, and the provision for him and his horse that day dis-
charged, and 6s. for every special Court called by any Copyholder.

" i81y. — We say that the Steward is to have for every first
surrender 4s. 4d., and the Cryer 4d.

" iojy. — Fees to the Steward for entering every admission and
for every attachment or distress, 4d. ; and for a Livery, i2d. ;
trial and verdict, aod. ; entering every plea, 4d. ; for each, 4d. ;
for every issue, iad. ; and for judgment, i2d.

" 2oly. — We say everyone essoyned is to pay one penny, and the
next Court to appear and not to essoyne twice together, except
in urgent occasions, sickness, or lameness.

" aily. — We say goods in execution distrained (levari facias) may
be by the bailiffe, and there be sufficient goods within the Manor,
[apjpraised, and sale made thereof for satisfaction of the debt and
damage therein mentioned rendering the overplus to the owner.

" 22ly. — We say that no one within this Manor, though he have
interest in the Royalty, if he erect a Cottage upon his own land,
can prescribe to have right of common, of turbary, estovers, or
any other privilege of the royalty as appurtenant, apendant, or
belonging to the said new house ; but that the Lords of this Manor,
their substitutes, or successors, may present and amerce them at
their pleasure.

M 23ly. — We say that the constables, shireborrows, and overseers
for the said Manor are accustomed to be nominated, elected, and
sworn at this Court.

"24IV. — We say freeholds cannot be made copyhold.

" 25ly. — We say that everyone that bringeth in an estray to the
reeve or other the Lords' officers are to have for their payment
— d.

(( 261y. — We say that anyone that doth in forme the Lords of
this Manor or their steward or officers of any trespass done upon
their woods, waters, or commons, or that doth infringe any other
of the Lords' rights shall have for their information — d.

<( 27ly. — We say and make a bylaw that all tenants, cottagers,
and incroachers of the Lords' waste that pay rent to the Lords of
this Manor shall bring in the same to the said Lords' substitute
half-yearly within six days after public notice given thereof in the
church, in pain of the forfeiture for every day's neglect, nd.

J 5

H'STORY OF MATLOCIL

H ™. AspinaH *• d -

G eo. Taylor ... "" '" * °

Too. Kirke ... ' "" ° °

Sam. Hogden" ."' " ° 'being J* old « Bt

Th °. Tavlor "' ' 4

Edward Whituke, .'" " *

*•<*: Woodward .' - '

Ed - Peir,on ... " *

*"«. Xavlor

Edward Whisker '" '" ' *

*•<*: Woodward '" "• ' '

Ed - Peirson . '" " * o

F ri«ko. fiowden for*' '" ' °

house a Dew

Antho. Cha gwen for " a ;• ° *

""'. Granger " ° 6

" en: Flint . '" - ° o

t^'^^ake-- °*

T ho. Abbotts '" - ° 2

Will. Bown •- - o 2

™o. Wood ..' •" - o 4

^•Jackson "• - o 2

^ Walker "' - o 2

^JmuDd W ard f - - o 2

.„ ir -—is:

«!** since l88o a the old courts £j ^ a PP°in trnem 7
y »*mh Wl ttf? haVe been Md « „ ad reviv ed them

THE MANOR.

18 Henry VIII. (1527), had lands, meadow, and pasture,
with four messuages, in Bonsall and Matlock. Godfrey
Foljambe, who died 4 Edward VI. (1551) had also mes-
suages and lands in the two places. Roger Leche, of
Chatsworth, died in 19 Henry VIII. (1528), seized of
three messuages with land here, held of the King of his
manor of Matlock, parcel of the Duchy, in socage, by
fealty and other services unknown. In 4 Edward VI.
(1541), Radulphus Leche had a messuage and ten acres
of land, held as before. The Agards, who succeeded the
Leches at Chatsworth, appear also to have followed them
at Matlock in the ownership of property, for we find that
in 3 Edward VI. (1549) Thomas Agard, Esq., died seised
of three messuages and forty acres of land and twenty
of meadow held of the King of the manor of Matlock
by fealty only. In due course the Cavendishes, who suc-
ceeded the Leches at Chatsworth, also held property at
Matlock, as Sir William Cavendish, knt., who died in
4 and 5 Philip and Mary (1558), had a messuage and
tenements held of the manor of Matlock in socage and
by fealty and service unknown. In each case the annual
value of the property is put at ten shillings.*

A return dated 1633 gives Anthony Bourne, Anthony
Cotterell, Thomas Flynte, William Ludlam, Anthony
Woodward, Adam Woolley, and William Woolley as
freeholders in Matlock.

In the return of land-owners compiled in 1873, thf
following resident owners of more than ten acres each
are given: Frederick Arkwright, 1,782 acres (in addition
to 656 acres belonging to the executors of Peter
Arkwright, in Cromford), annual value, ,£4,794 14s.;
Charles Clarke, 37 acres, annual value, ^87 12s.; Mrs.

•Add. MSS. (Wolley's) 6,667, *• 267.8.
2 17

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

Charles Clarke (co-heiress of Adam Wolley), 212 acres,
jQ$°$'> John Else's Trustees, 29, ^153; Charles Else,
12 > ;£*3J Walter Shore Evans, 75, ^240; Mrs. John
Greaves, 105, ^215; Rev. John Higgs, 61, ,£248;
Samuel Kirkland, 38, ,£53; Miss Leacroft, 25, £fii ;
Brooke Leacroft, value ^160; Rev. W. R. Melville, 210,
^665; Rev. H. Milnes, 55, ^70; W. E. Nightingale,
Lea Hurst, 2,238, ^3,966; William Henry Nightingale,
176, ^70; Wm. S. Nightingale, 1 acre 1 rood 6 poles,
j£i 7s.; John Nuttalls Trustees, 192, ^398; James
Pearson, 99, ^402; William Pearson, 45, ^58; C.
Childers Radford, 1,117, jQ 1 * 21 ^} School Trustees, 16,
^£34 1 os. ; Wm. A. Sheldon, 49, £48; John Smedley,
35, ;£i,oo6; G. Smith's Trustees, 15, ^107; John Smith,
J &> £45* Miss Stevens, 16, ;£66; Joseph Storer, 14,
jQui; Mary Taylor, 36, ^54; Mrs. George Wall, 23,
^46; George Ward, 13, ^41; John Wheatcroft, 42,
£83; Mary Wigley, 10, £5; James Wright, 10, £16 *

F. C. Arkwright, Esq., is the owner of a manor and
considerable estate in the parish, as will appear in a
subsequent chapter.

The Nightingales and their successors have been landed
proprietors in the parish since 1771. In that year, Peter
Nightingale obtained by purchase from Edmund Morphy
a considerable estate running down to the river on the
south-east slope of Riber Hill, called the Coumbs and
Bough or Bow Woods. At the same time, he acquired,
also by purchase, the manor of Wakebridge, in Crich.
These properties formerly belonged to Peter, son of Ralph
de Wakebrigge, who married a daughter of Hubert
FitzRalph, Baron of Crich, in the reign of King John.

coun v thU mi the roods and poles and shillings are generally

THE MANOR,

Pole, of Wakebridge, was the second branch of Pole of
Radbourn. John de la Pole, circa 1361, married Cecilia,
sister and heiress of Sir William Wakebridge, of Wake-
bridge, knt., a valiant knight, says Wyrley, who distin-
guished himself in the wars with France in the reign of
Edward III. Wakebridge remained with the Poles till
1724, when, on the death of John Pole, it devolved to
Garalt Morphy, grandson of his sister and heir, whose
brother Edmund, the next inheritor, sold it, as before
stated.

In 1 90 1, the planted part of the Bow Wood estate was
sold to Mr. A. S. Marsden-Smedley, but Mrs. Shore-
Nightingale retains the agricultural land.

As will be seen from the appended pedigree, the first
Peter Nightingale was a lead merchant, and it is to be
presumed that he amassed wealth in that capacity, as
not only did his son, Peter, who was Sheriff of the
county in 1770, acquire the estates before mentioned, but
he also built a mill at Lea, in which cotton spinning was
carried on, prior to the advent, in 1807, of the Smedleys,
who established the hosiery manufacturing business, which
the family still retain. There is a date on the oldest
portion of these Lea Mills, which is situate in Ashover
parish, of 1784. In course of time, the buildings have
been added to and extended over the Matlock boundary,
until now nearly one-half of the mills is in this parish.
In 1776, Peter Nightingale, Esq., acquired the manor of
Cromford, by purchase from William Milnes, Esq., to
whom it came through marriage with the heiress of
Soresby. In 1789 he sold it to Mr. (afterwards Sir)
Richard Arkwright, with whose successors it remains.
The Nightingale family has long resided at Lea Hurst;
previously they were at Wood End and Lea Hall.

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

Lea Hurst, a country house in the Elizabethan style,
stone-built, is set on the outer edge of an extensive
park and surrounded with well-grown timber. The clus-
tered chimney-stacks, the ball-crowned gables, the large
bay windows, the balustrades and flights of steps, give it
an air of distinction, and make together a charming
picture. The gardens are tasteful and attractive, and
the prospects of sylvan and open country by turns pleasant
and gratifying.

Peter Nightingale, of Lea and Wood End, High Sheriff
of the county in 1770, died unmarried in 1803. His
only sister, Anne, married George Evans,* of Bonsall
and Bridge House, Cromford, whose daughter, Mary,
became the wife of William Shore, of Tapton, for many
years a banker at Sheffield. William Shore left issue
(1) William Edward, of Lea Hurst and Embley, Hants.,
who married, June 1st, 181 8, Frances, widow of William
Edward Nightingale, and daughter of William Smith,
M.P., of Parndon, co. Essex. He assumed, in pursuance
of the will of his grand-uncle, Peter Nightingale, the name
of Nightingale, by royal sign-manual, dated Feb. 21st,
1815. He died in 1874, leaving issue two daughters-
Frances Parthenope, afterwards Lady Verney, and
Florence F. J. S., of Crimean fame. William Shore also

* Descended from Anthony Evans, of Winster, whose son Edmund
inherited the copyhold lands of his uncle, Edmund Feme, of Upper
Bonsall, in 1710, and was the common ancestor of the Evanses of
Allestree, Darley Abbey, Mayfield, Cromford, and Matlock Bath.
Walter M. Shore Evans, a solicitor by profession, of the Temple
Hotel, held a considerable estate in the last-named place, which on
his death, on January 8th, 1875, passed to his kinsman and heir,
John Evans, who subsequently resided at the Temple Hotel, and
died on the 27th December, 1889. Later the estate was disposed of
by auction and otherwise, the principal portion passing into the
possession of Col. A. Cantrell Hubbersty, and the rest into various
hands.

THE MANOR.

left (2) Mary, who married Samuel, son of William Smith,
of Parndon, and had a son, William, born 1831, who
assumed the name of Shore-Nightingale, married, 1859,
Louisa Ellen, daughter of Saml. Hutchins, of Ardnagashel,
and died in 1894, leaving issue Samuel, born Nov. 27 th,
i860; Louis Hilary; and three daughters. His widow
still resides at Lea Hurst.

Miss Florence Nightingale, rightly regarded by the
British people and beyond the confines of the United
Kingdom with affection and veneration for her self-
sacrificing womanly services in nursing the sick at the time
of the war with Russia in 1854-6, when the allied forces
of England, France, and Turkey invaded and fought in
the Crimea, was born at Florence, Italy, on the 15th of
May, 1830. In her youth she was highly educated, her
studies including the unusual subject of mathematics.
Very early in life she developed an interest in nursing
and hospital management, and later on the celebrated
Dean Stanley, of Westminster, said of her that she was
a woman of commanding genius. Her genius lay in an
overmastering desire to minister to the sick and wounded,
combined with the ability necessary to realise that desire.
In 1844 she commenced the study of hospitals and nursing.

In 1850, with the help of Lady Canning, she founded
a Ladies' Home at 90, Harley Street, London, for
governesses (who are primarily eligible), the wives and
daughters of the clergy, of naval, military, and other
professional men. The number of beds in the home is
twenty. Here ladies of the classes designated receive
every possible care, comfort, and first-rate advice at the
most moderate cost In 1900, 164 patients were treated,
at an average cost for each of ^3 10s. 7d. The total

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

expenditure in the same year was ,£2,424. As late as
November, 1901, Miss Nightingale addressed an appeal to
the Times, in which journal it duly appeared, pleading
for public support to this Home.

In 1851, Miss Nightingale entered the Institution for
Protestant Deaconesses at Kaiserworth, on the Rhine,
and went into training as a nurse. Subsequently she
studied on the spot the system adopted in the best
hospitals of Paris, proceeding afterwards to London, where
she organised her Sanatorium for Governesses. This
brought her to the year 1854, when she had spent ten
years in training and study of the principles of her art,
for she has said herself that nursing is an art — a fine
art — and almost the finest of fine arts. An opportunity
to put this art in practice came when, in the last-men-
tioned year, the war in the Crimea broke out.

The battle of the Alma was fought on the 20th of
September and the wounded were conveyed to the so-
called hospital at Scutari, but reports came home that this
hospital was a disease-breeding, ill-managed, almost un-
managed place, where the brave wounded men were con-
veyed and left in a condition of indescribable filth and
misery, to become the victims of disease and death. Miss
Nightingale wrote and published a letter appealing for
help to remedy this state of things, collected a band of
thirty-four ladies who volunteered to go out with her as
nurses, and sailed for the East.

She arrived with her party at Constantinople on the 4th
of November, and reached Scutari on the day on which
the battle of Inkermann was fought. There had been
2,300 patients at Scutari, but this number was soon raised
to 5,000. The hospital was a huge quadrangle, the

THE MANOR.

beds, two deep in the corridors, were rank with filth. Here
cholera and fever flourished, here the soldiers lay with
sloughing wounds, in a polluted atmosphere, and with the
accompaniment of heart-rending sufferings grew worse and
worse. The doctors toiled hard and did their best, but
were quite unequal to the necessities of the occasion,
though they in turn were killing themselves. At the same
time red tape rules reigned rampant, and nothing could be
supplied to the suffering, sinking soldiers, except through
a wearisome routine wasteful of precious time. Miss
Nightingale broke through all hard and fast rules, and with
common-sense, and her training as a nurse for her guide,
did her best with her assistants to change the state of
affairs, to minister to the wants and comfort of the men,
to assuage their pangs, to improve the surrounding con-
ditions, to avert a fatal issue, and restore to health and
strength. In a few months after her arrival she had
10,000 patients on her hands, and, working for twenty hours
at a stretch, saw to everything. She was frequently seen
in the still hours of the night, flitting through the wards,
lamp in hand, giving words of sympathy and consolation,
and necessary tendance, to the worst of the sufferers, and
seeing with her own eyes that the best possible was being
done for all.

In the spring of 1856, Miss Nightingale was prostrated
with fever, but refused to leave her post, and not till July
in that year, when the war came to a close, did she return
to England. Her home-coming was quiet and unosten-
tatious, but the people knew of it, and their manifestation
of gratitude was great. It found expression in a public
subscription by which the sum of ,£50,000 was realised.
When the money was presented, she devoted it to found a

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

training school for nurses connected with St Thomas's and
Ring's College Hospitals, London, thus laying the found*
tion of scientific nursing, now admitted to be an indispen-
sable factor in the care and recovery of the sick. The late
Queen Victoria wrote Miss Nightingale an autograph letter
of thanks and sent her a cross set with diamonds. The
Sultan of Turkey presented her with a bracelet of brilliants.
Many tokens of public esteem would have been added to
these, but she declined them, preferring that her labour of
love should be its own reward. Ever since she has lived
and still lives in the grateful memory and affectionate
regard of the nation. She has enshrined her knowledge,
and the results of her experiences of nursing in books,
which have been widely read. For many years she has
been much of an invalid, but from time to time has mani-
fested her interest in her old work, and those to whom it
applies. The greatest of American poets, Longfellow, has
immortalised her in a well-phrased composition full of
fine feeling, entitled "Santa Filomena," in which the
preservation of her name and fame in our national annals
is thus, doubtless with truth, foretold : —

" Lo, in that house of misery
A lady, with a lamp, I see

Pass through the glimmering gloom,
And flit from room to room.

* » * *

On England's annals, through the long
Hereafter of her speech and song,

That light its rays shall cast,

From portals of the past.

A lady with a lamp shall stand
In the great history of the land,

A noble type of good,

Heroic, Womanhood."

THE MANOR.

According to information contained in the pedigree com-
piled for the late Mr. John Smedley, Cromford Bridge
House was the residence of the Hayward family before
1600, and continued in their possession till about 1800.
The Haywards on the female side were descended from
the Moores of Winster, one of whom was maternal ancestor
of Mr. Smedley.

CHAPTER II.

THE MOTHER CHURCH.

The Parish Church, Modern and Ancient— Re-building the
Nave— Decorations— Embellishments— Windows— Relics
of Older Fabric— Monuments— Wolley Altar Tomb-
Brasses— Bells— Churchyard— Rectors— Value of the
Living — Charities — Schools — Stark holmes School-
Church— Transfer of Part of Parish to Tansley—
Parochial Institute— First Interment under Burial
Acts — Peculiar Custom.

STEPHEN GLOVER never got beyond Derby in his
published itinerary of the county, although he
personally informed the present writer that he
finished it, and delivered all the copy to his printers.*
The fact was his plans were too ambitious and costly for
the means at disposal. His work must have been set up in
type twice over, for the octavo and quarto editions— con-
siderable additions and extensions being made in the latter
— and although he was supported by handsome lists of
subscribers, the funds gave out, and his great, and as far
as it went meritorious, work was brought to a standstill.
Nevertheless, in his "Peak Guide," he published an
historical account of Matlock, and with this there is a small
engraving of the parish church as it stood in the year 1830.
* The MSS. passed to the late Mr. Bateman, of Lomberdale Hall.

THE MOTHER CHURCH.

He says of it : u The handsome gothic tower church is built
on a limestone rock, on a considerable elevation, and is a
picturesque object." The tower was the same then as now,
is really handsome, and has been well preserved, but the
little square factory-like windows of the south gallery
present themselves to our eyes as commonplace, even
mean. The fact is that the body of the church had been
a good deal knocked about. On the ist of April, 1760,
Peter Nightingale, jun., George Evans, John Wilkinson,
John Wall, Adam Wolley, Edmund Hodgkinson, John
Sowter, and John Kirkland, obtained a faculty to rebuild
the wall of the south aisle 45 feet long, with a loft over
of the same length, and 12 feet broad, which was done
accordingly.* This is the aisle, the exterior view of which
is presented by Glover. In the year 1783, Richard
Arkwright, Esq., of Cromford (who, under the deed con-
veying the manor of Willersley, had some claims over
certain pews allotted thereto) took down the north aisle,
which he rebuilt with a gallery over containing eighteen
seats or pews, ranging from the west to the east end of
the said church, t This work appears to have been
done without adequate authority at the time, but
it seems to have been found that there was law in
the Church in those days, for in the following year a
faculty had to be and was obtained confirming these pro-
ceedings. The church thus altered is depicted in an
engraving by J. Farington, R.A., dated 181 7, with small
square factory-like windows on the north side, and was
so left until the publication of Glover's illustration. From
this we see that the south wall, though pierced by four

•Add. MSS. {WolUy's) 6,667, £ 82.
il bid.

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

factory or cottage windows, was given somewhat of a
pretentious appearance by being embattled on the top.
The south gallery was attainable from the outside only,
a massive but clumsy flight of stone steps, guarded on
either hand by a low wall, leading to the entrance. These
steps were situate in the centre between the two pairs of
windows. There was another but smaller flight of steps
leading up to a door at the western end of the south
gallery. The porch, spacious but ill-designed, projected
several yards outside the south-west door, and on its east
side adjoined the main flight of steps. The chancel
projected some little way beyond the nave, than which it
was narrower. It had apparently a single window on the
south side, the style of which was in harmony with those
above described, though its height was somewhat greater.
The east window was of Gothic design, with traceried
head. The chancel was on a lower level than the nave,
and was entered by a descent of several steps. This
difference of level has been accounted for by the sug-
gestion that extensions and alterations were always
carried out from east to west, in which direction rising
rocky ground was encountered. It is a fact that the
modern changes commenced at the east end, the chancel
having been rebuilt in 1859 by the then rector, the Rev.
W. R. Melville, who has recorded the fact on the exterior
of the eastern wall.

The last service in the old church was held on New
Year's Day, 187 1. After this the whole of the body of
the building was pulled down, the tower and chancel alone
remaining. After the rebuilding of the nave and aisles it
was re-opened on October 25th, 187 1, Bishop Hobhouse
officiating for the Bishop of Lichfield. From a letter of

THE MOTHER CHURCH.

the Rev. W. R. Melville,* we learn that in the faculty
authorising these alterations a clause was inserted declaring
all the seats in the new church free and unappropriated.
Previously there had not been an unappropriated seat in
the whole church.

As the church now stands, it comprises nave of three
bays, chancel, north and south aisles, with transepts, and
south-west porch in the geometric Gothic style. The
north transept is utilised for the organ with, in its
rear, a vestry for the choir. East of this, abutting on the
north chancel wall, is the clergy vestry, an entirely
separate apartment. The south transept is commonly
spoken of as the south chapel. The tower is at the
western extremity of the building. In 1897-8 the south
aisle was extended, and the south chapel added, the
porch being also slightly altered. At the same time the
arch over the organ chamber was raised, and one of
the windows on the south side of the chancel being
removed, the corresponding arch to the south chapel was
formed. The available space in the chancel was increased
by pushing back the rearmost choir stall on either side
into the opening of the arches and re-arranging the other
stalls, the choir and entrance to the sacristy being
thus rendered much more convenient. Previously the
chancel was undecorated, with rough walls, but at this
time the walls were smoothed down and a scheme of
decoration carried out by Mr. A. O. Hemming, of London,
who happened to be engaged on Cromford Church.
These decorations are stated to be mainly after certain
fourteenth century work at Canterbury Cathedral. They
also include the figure of an ang el, symbolising the worship

* Derbyshire Times, April 27th, 187a.

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

of Heaven as described in the Book of Revelation. The
east window of three lights, filled with stained glass, was
put up by Lady (wife of Sir Joseph) Paxton, to the memory
of her parents, her father having been a Bown of Matlock.
The white marble pavement of the sanctuary and the
handsome brass altar-rail were the gift of Miss Harrison,
of Dean Hill, who also gave at the same time a remarkably
fine brass eagle lectern, all as a memorial to her late
brother, Dr. Harrison. The chancel is paved with squares
of black and white polished marble, presented and laid
by the family of Mr. and Mrs. N. Statham as a memorial
of their parents.

The organ was rebuilt at the time of the last additions
to the church at a cost of ^225.

The present rector having provided the means, the
basement of the tower has been opened into the nave by
the erection of a four-centre arch of old oak under the
front edge of the ringing-chamber floor. The carved
king's head forming the point of this arch was rescued
from the old church when it was demolished in 1871.
The roof of this opening is decorated with open-work
tracery, consisting of portions of the old oak altar-rail,
the style maintained being that of the fifteenth century.
The space here obtained has been utilised as a baptistery,
and therein has been erected the interesting, though
rugged, ancient font attributed by Dr. Cox to the Early
English period (about 1200), the base upon which it
stands being regarded as still more ancient. The font,
with other architectural relics, was rescued from the
rectory garden, where it had long lain derelict. Upon
the walls of this opening in the tower are placed the
record boards of the annuities devised to the poor and

3°

THE MOTHER CHURCH.

the cause of education by various benefactors to be
enumerated hereafter. These boards were originally
erected on the front of the singing gallery or organ-loft
which existed at the west end till the changes made in
the fabric in 1871. Here are also placed the old Bible
chest with chain and another old oak chest

Immediately inside the arch, on the north side, at an
elevation of some eight or ten feet, is a glass-fronted
case containing six Maidens' Funeral Garlands or
Crantses, all that remain of a much larger number that
formerly hung under the old western gallery. These
garlands were made and carried before the body at the
funerals of young virgins, and Jewitt states* that the
usage of honouring the virginity with garlands or
wreaths of flowers has obtained over the whole Christian
world. They are made of paper cut into rosettes and
other patterns and ornaments. One garland contains the
representation of a pair of white gloves. They are very
curious and interesting relics, and should continue to be
preserved.

A three-light window at the east end of the north aisle
is filled with a representation of the Ascension, the
Christ rising in the middle compartment, while the eleven
Apostles are distributed, four kneeling beneath their
ascending Lord, with three others to the left, and four to
the right, all also kneeling. This window is in memory
of John Knowles, of Knowlston Place,! who died March
5th, 1869; also of Sarah, his wife, who died October nth,
1 87 1, and was erected by their surviving relatives in 1882.

* Reliquary, i., 5.

t Mr. Knowles built Knowlston Place in 1857. The stone was

partly from Darley and partly from Wingerwortb.

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

At the west end of the north aisle is a fine window of
three compartments. The central space is occupied by a
figure of our Lord in majesty, with, beneath, one of
Michael the Archangel. Right and left is an angel, and
beneath on the one hand St. John the Baptist, with the
quotation, " Ecce Agnus Dei,' 1 on a scroll ; on the other
hand is the Virgin Mary. The design and colouring are
good. The inscription runs thus. —

"To the glory of God, and in memory of Emily P. Wood, the
beloved wife of Ransom E. Wood, who died at Matlock, July 15th,
1874, and if interred in this churchyard. Also in remembrance of
their children, Emily Phoebe, Ellen, and Charles Noble, interred in
Greenwood cemetery, Brooklyn, N.Y., U.S.A."

A small one-light stained window on the west side of
the south porch represents Adam and Eve at the fall, Eve
being in the act of offering the forbidden fruit to her
husband, while from a tree occupying the middle ground
peers the face of Satan, his body, in the form of a serpent,
being twined round the tree. Underneath is the quota-
tion, "The wages of sin is death." Below on a stone
built into the wall of the fabric is this inscription :

" 4" In D^i Gloriam. 4" This window is given as a New Year's
Offering by the Rev. W. R. Melville, Rector of this Parish,
January 1st, 1873."

A two-light trefoil-headed window on the south side of
the chancel contains in well-designed and coloured
pictures, on one side, Jesus blessing little children, and on
the other the Apostle forbidding the bringing of children
to Him. An inscription below runs thus:

" In memory of Richard Becher Leacroft, Esq., who died Novem-
ber aist, 1862, aged 67 years, son of Thomas and Jane Leacroft, of

THE MOTHER CHURCH.

Cliff House, Matlock, and nephew of the Rev. George Holcombe,
D.D., prebendary of Westminster, who married Catherine, daughter
of Francis Hurt, Esq., of Alderwasley, and was rector of this parish
upwards of 50 years."

On another small window in the chancel, especially
well-designed and coloured, is the inscription on a scroll,
u I am the Resurrection and the Life," with appropriate
figures. On a narrow brass tablet beneath, "Mrs.
Greaves's memorial window."

In the east wall of the south chapel are two small
single-light trefoil-headed windows. In the right hand
one is a representation of Christ on His appearance on
earth subsequent to the Resurrection, in the act of saying,
u Peace be unto you." On the base is inscribed,

" To the glory of God, and in memory of Catherine Sophia Oxen-
den LeacToft, second daughter of Thomas and Jane Leacroft, of
Cliff House, died 10th January, 1876, aged 88. Also of John
Staples, K.C.M.G., Lord Mayor of London, 1886-1887, eldest son
of John and Mary Ann Staples, of Belmont, Salisbury, died 16th
January, 1888, aged 7a."

In the second window in this situation is represented
the well-known scriptural incident between Samuel and
Eli, but it is uninscribed.

The early history of the Church is obscure. There is
no mention of one having been in existence at the time
of the compilation of the Domesday Book, but sufficient
remains of an early Norman structure have been pre-
served — notably the capital of a pillar — to indicate that
one existed not long subsequent to the date of that
record. Dr. Cox* considers it probable that a Church was

* Derbyshire Churches, ii., 517.
3 33

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

erected here in the second quarter of the twelfth century;
but this is surmise, as unfortunately no documentary
evidence has been found on which such a statement can
be based. Matlock, like Darley, was a royal manor,
and the patronage of both places appears to have been
placed at an early date in the gift of the Dean of Lincoln.
When the taxation roll of Pope Nicholas IV. was com-
piled, the value of the rectory of Matlock was put at
jQio. That was in 129 1. A later account, drawn up
in 1 3 10, including the Derbyshire possessions of the Dean
of Lincoln, describes the Church of Matlock as being in
the patronage of the Dean, but owing no pension or
dues to the Dean and Chapter. A similar account,
in Dr. Pegge's collections, drawn up in the reign of
Henry VI., contains a similar statement.

By the Valor Ecclesiasticus of 27 Henry VIII., it
appears that John Lillylove was then the rector, and
held a mansion with glebe lands of the annual value
of 33s. 4d., the total value of the living being brought
up to ;£n 12s. by the income from tithes. When the
inventory of Church goods was compiled in the first year
of Edward VI., the report as to Matlock was as
follows : —

" Matlokt, Sept. 19. Nicolas Walker Curat, j chalice with a
patent of silver and gilte — iiij vestments of saye — ij albes threi

alter clothes — ij towells — j cope of fustyan j senser of brasse

— ij smaule candellstik.es of brasse — iij bells — j handbell — j
sacringe bell. Edw. Walker, Edw. Madden iij H at changinge
of the bells."

In 1636 the Church underwent considerable altera-
tions, and a new south porch was built, the Norman
doorway from a previous building being utilized, and the
remainder of the gable carried out in the same style as
th^ present tower (fifteenth century work). This gable,

THE MOTHER CHURCH.

with the date stone bearing the figures 1636 and the
initials T.B. D.W. (probably those of the Church-
wardens), is now re-erected, as the best means of
preserving it, close to the base of the tower on the south
side. There are other relics in the same situation,
notably an ancient sundial.

In 1650, the Parliamentary Committee reported that
Matlock " is a parsonage really worth fowre score pounds
per annum. Mr. Thomas Shelmerdine, Incumbent, able
and honest" Thomas Shelmerdine was of Lancashire
birth, and educated at Christ College, Cambridge.
Calamy's* account of him is that "he was a diligent
preacher at Criche divers years. . . . He was a
man very cheerful in Converse. A kind Husband to an
Holy but Melancholy Wife. From Criche he removed
to Matlock. . . He removed thence, when he was
Silenced, to a dwelling at Wirksworth, where he did not
long survive."

On an altar tomb, the covering slab of which is of white
marble, now placed against the north wall of the choir
vestry, is an inscription commemorating the death of
Anthony Wolley, of Riber, and his wife. The slab
bears figures of Anthony, his wife, and their six children,
the outlines of which are incised and filled with black
enamel. The man is clad in an ample fur-lined gown or
overcoat, reaching to his feet, and having long hanging
sleeves. The woman also wears a long robe, with sleeves
of similar cut, open down the front, but with fastening
ties at intervals. A close fitting cap is on her head.
Dr. Cox states that this style of costume existed only for
a short period, which makes its preservation the more

* Ejected Ministers, ii., 166.

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

interesting. The children are represented below, four
boys and two girls, with these initials: — "J.W., E.W.,
A.W., T.W., A.W., J.W." (John, Edward, Anthony,
Thomas, Anne, and Jane). Round the margin of the
fiat top of the tomb is the following inscription. —

"Here lyeth the bodies of Anthonie Woolley, and Agnes, his
wyeflfe wch Anthonie dyeth iiij daye of September in the yere of our
Lorde modolxxviij (aged) lxxij, on whose soules God hathe taken
mercy on."

On a black marble tablet higher up on the same
wall : —

" Near this place were interred the remains of Adam Woiley, of
Allen Hill, in this parish, and of Grace, his wife. He was born in
the year 1558, married at the parish Church of Darley, on the
1st day of October, 1581, and after continuing in wedlock with his
said wife for the long period of 76 years, died in the month of
August, 1657, in the 100th year of his age ; she was born in the
year 1559, and died in the month of July, 1669, aged no, and for
the purpose of recording so extraordinary, but well-authenticated an
instance of longevity, and long continuance in the state of wedlock,
their great, great, great, great grandson, Adam Woiley, of this
parish, gent., caused this memorial to be erected in the year 1824."

On a tablet monument on the north wall of the choir
vestry: —

" Adam Woiley, died 1st July, 1827, aged 69. Also, Ann WoUey,
his wife, died January 17th, 1849, aged 74."

The old brasses recorded by Woiley have been care-
fully preserved and re-set. On a plate about six inches
square:—

"Hie jacet Henricus Smith quondam istius Ecclesiae Rector qui
mortem obiit Anno domi. 1640, Divinus, medicus, musicus.

On an old brass, 16 by 20 inches: —

" Memoriae Sacrum Josephi Fern, A.M., Hujus Ecclesiae Rectoris
viri pietate religione moribus Antiquis qui muneris laboribus non
annis confectus Falis concessit Septimus ido Aprilis, Anno

THE MOTHER CHURCH.

MDCCXVIL, jEtatis LXIII. jErse Christiana 1717. Hie Janae
uxoris pietissimse cineres juxta apposite Godfridi Watkinsoni de
Brampton generosi filiae quae matura ccelo, marito prius occupavit
8vo calendas Augusti, Anno MDCCXIV., iEtatis 49. E. munerosa
prole quam uteri foecundi uxor peperit manibus etiam hie justa riunt
Matthsee, Samuelis, Elizabeths, Susannas, Josephi alterius Eliza-
bethan, et Janae, Marium, Godfridum, Annam, Saram, huic familiae
fati violantia non dum invidit."

On a plain brass plate, 12 ins. by 9 ins., on the west
wall of the south chapel:—

" Here lies interred Jessie Gwyllym, wife to Captain Thomas
Gwyllym, of Barfield, near Hereford, and daughter to Thos. Dun-
bar, Esq., of Liverpool, who died on the 26th March, 1773, in the
24th year of her age."

An unintelligible verse follows, commencing

" Snatched ere her prime and in her bridal hour."

On a mural monument in the north aisle: —
" To the memory of Captain William Cumming, of the 83rd
British regiment, and 9th Portuguese Cacadores, who having fought
in the battles of Oporto, Talavera, Buzaco, and Fuentes de Onoro,
fell in attack on the French outposts, near Bayonne, October 9th,
18 1 3, in the 30th year of his age. This tablet was erected by his
brothers, in whose affection and esteem he had that place to which
firmness of mind and urbanity of manners justly entitled their
possessor."

On a mural brass, about 20 ins. by 12 ins., now placed
on the south side of the western wall: —

" Sacred to the pious memory of Robert Cliff, late of the Wold in
this parish, born at Far nicy, in the parish of Leeds, in the county of
York, Feb** 22nd, Anno 1620, and died March the 24th, 1696, aged
76 years. He was thrice married : first to Dorothy, the daughter
of Mr. Thomas Prime, of Weston, in this county, by whom he had
no issue ; secondly, to Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Coll. Nathaniel
Barton, of Coldwell, in this county, who died of and with her first
child; thirdly, to Margaret, the sole surviving daughter of Roger
Wombwell, of Wombwell, in the county of York, Esquire, who was
his sorrowful and mournful relict, by whom he had three sons and

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

one daughter; first, William, born July the 31st, 1679; secondly,
Nathaniel, born December the nth, 1680; thirdly, Martha, born
June the 24th, 1682, and died November the 5th, 1693; fourthly,
John, born January the 4th, 1683. He was the most pious, just,
and mercifullest of men, the best of fathers, the kindest of masters,
and the loveingest of husbands. 'As for your fathers, where are
they, and did the prophets live for ever? * "

Between the organ and the vestry door are two brasses
thus inscribed: —

" In memory of George Edward Statham, the choir-master of this
Church, born January 22nd, 1854 ; died November 25th, 1883."

" In memory of Luke Robinson Statham, for many years organist
of this Church, born January 31st, 1849; died December 23rd,
1809."

On a mural brass at the west end of the nave. —
"In memory of Henry Edwin Bailey, of Matlock, who entered
into rest on Easter eve, March 31st, 1888, aged 49 years. ( Thine
eyes shall see the King in beauty.' Is. 23, 17. ( His servants shall
serve him, and they shall see his face.' Rev. 22, 3, 4. The clock
and chimes in the tower of this Church were dedicated Easter, 1889,
and were the gift of Mary Ann Bailey, as a memorial of her hus-
band."

On a brass plate placed on the east wall of the south
chapel is inscribed: —

" Under this stone are deposited the remains of the Reverend
Lawrence Whitaker, late curate of St. Mary's, in Nottingham, in
which Church a marble monument is erected to his memory. He
died at Matlock Bath, the nth day of June, 1769, in the 46th year
of his age."

There is also a mural monument on the west wall of
the south aisle, to Susannah Elizabeth, relict of John
Hussey Delaval, Baron Delaval of Seaton Delaval and
Fordcastle, Northumberland, who died at Matlock,
August 28th, 1822, aged 59; and another erected by

THE MOTHER CHURCH.

Augustus Gordon, a retired officer of the army, and
Henrietta, his wife, to the memory of their four children
who died at Matlock Bath, and are buried in the Church-
yard.

The tower contains six bells, although the chamber is
not large, but the two smallest are hung above the
larger ones. They bear respectively the following
inscriptions : —

I. — The Rcvd. Geo. Holcombe, Rector ; R. Mason, W. Godward,
C. Wards. G. H., 1791. (The last two letters stand for the name
of George Hedderley, the founder.)

II.— John Woolley and Jno. Wood, Ch. Wardens. Lester &
Pack, of London, fecit 1767.

III. — Remunerabit Calum benefactoribus meis, 17 18. (This
round the haunch; below—) F. Walker: R.B. : C.W. : D.H.
(The two last initials are those of the founder, Daniel Hedderley.)

IV. — Jesus be our speed, 1626.

V. — Sea Maria Magdalena o.p.n. (As the last three letters are
an abbreviation of "ora pro nobis," i.e., "pray for us," this bell is
obviously of pre-Reformation origin.) Mr. LI. Jewitt, who described
the bells and illustrated the inscriptions and marks in The
Reliquary * said of this one that it is " evidently one of the oldest
as well as most interesting bells in the county. The mark, with
fylfot cross, is of great rarity."

VI.— I unto those that liveth well

Do toll their welcome passing bell.
G. Hedderley, fecit I70i.f

•Vol.

xv., p. 115.

t The Measure of A Peal

Of Six Bells att Matlock.

I St

2\ wide

ao high

3$ thick.

2nd

294 „

21 „

2 inch Bare skirted.

3rd

3i* >.

22 „

2} Bare.

4 th

3*i ,.

24 „

2j Bare.

5th

37* »

27 »

af Note /

6th

4i »

28 „

3 inch Bare.

—Reliquary xiiL, 86.

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

On the 23rd of April, 1868, a vestry meeting was held
to consider. the advisableness of establishing a cemetery
for the district, the grounds alleged for the proposed
action being that the churchyard as a burial ground was
small considering the size and increase of the population
of the parish, that it was crowded except where there
was underlying rock to blast, a process which added
greatly to the expense, and that its condition was
injurious to health. A resolution was proposed that
it was deemed desirable to close the churchyard for
funerals, except the family vaults, and ask the Home
Secretary to authorize the vestry to provide a cemetery
forthwith. An amendment in favour of adjourning to
May 5th was carried. In the course of the proceedings,
it was stated that Mr. F. Arkwright had offered a piece
of land for enlarging the churchyard. It was, however,
resolved to go on with the effort to obtain a cemetery.
At the adjourned meeting on May 5th, it was resolved
that a new burial ground for the parish of Matlock be
provided, an amendment excluding Matlock Bath being
rejected. On the 20th of May, a meeting of residents
in Matlock Bath was held, and a decision taken to form
a board under the Burial Acts, and provide a burial
ground for themselves. On the 10th July, 1872, the
Right Rev. Dr. G. A. Selwyn, Bishop of Lichfield,
consecrated half an acre of ground, which had been
added to Matlock churchyard, the land being the gift of
Mr. F. Arkwright, the proposal for a cemetery having
been dropped.

In January, 1896, the churchwardens, having in hand
^500, the proceeds of a bazaar held in the preceding

THE MOTHER CHURCH.

summer, proposed to spend the money on various im-
provements, one of which was the extension of the
churchyard. A plot of land, one and a quarter acres in
extent, on the western side of the old burial ground,
was acquired from Mr. F. C. Arkwright, at a cost of
^50. Being copyhold it was enfranchised at a further
expense of ^13, while on laying out and planting it,
£90 was spent. The new ground was consecrated by
the Right Rev. Dr. Ridding, Bishop of Southwell, on
the first of April, 1897.

There is a list of Rectors, not entirely consecutive,
in the Wolley collections. This was re-edited and
extended by Cox. Below it is slightly condensed and
brought up to date: —

1300. Walter de Foderingeye. Died.

13 15. Ralph de Ergom. Resigned.

1 31 6. Robert de Brydelington.
1328. Richard Bargrave.

1332. Michael, son of John de Hayelton.
1361. Henry de Wichiner.

1366. Hugh Hykeling. Exchanged with his succes-
sor for the precentorship of Crediton.

1372. William de Loundey.

1373. Lawrence de Sundrish, an acolyte admitted
" in persona Henry de Foston."

John de Asseburne.

1387. Richard de Stepull.

John Tekyll. Died.

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

1423. Robert Conyngham. Exchanged with his
successor for Brailsford.

M35- William Egge.

1435- William Lowthe. Died.

1459. Henry Anse.

1467. Oliver Dynham, M.A.

1482. Thomas Reynald. Died.

1457. Thomas Basford, alias Beresforde, B.L.
Resigned 1504.

1573. Thomas Lillylowe. Died.

1545. Robert Home.

1554. Edmund Wyld.

1560. Christopher Grange.
Peter Hart.
Henry Smith. Died 1640.

1640.* — Thorpe. Rector about two years.

1656. Thomas Shelmerdine. Ejected for Noncon-
formity, 1662.

1688. Joseph Fern, A.M. Died 1716.

1 7 17. Thomas Hincksman. Died i738.t

Charles Cartwright. Exchanged for Char-
borough, Notts., 1753.

1753. Benjamin Burrow, A.M. Died 1779.

1780. G. Holcombe, D.D. Died.

1836. William Job Charlton Stanton.

•Wollcy.

+ Was also Vicar of Chesterfield. — Reliquary xxi., p. 112.

THE MOTHER CHURCH.

1839. William Rylance Melville. Died.
1887. James William Kewley.

The Church is dedicated to St. Giles, whose Saint's
day in the calendar is September 1st.

The living remains a rectory, and is of the nett
annual value of ^£290, with twenty-six acres of glebe,
and a residence. The Bishop of Southwell is the
patron.

The following is a detailed account of the parochial
charities : —

George Spateman, by his will, dated 27th March,
1647, gave jQSo to the use of a school in Matlock parish
for the better education of poor children there, and ^20
to the use of the poor of the parish, for ever.

These two legacies were in 1650 laid out in the
purchase of a messuage and land, in the parish of
Alfreton, afterwards exchanged for a house and
5 a. 3 r. 5 p. in Matlock.

Anthony Wolley, by his will dated 17th July, 1668,
gave towards the maintenance of the free school at
Matlock, ^5 per annum for ever, and directed that a
piece of land should be set apart by his executors tor
that use. At the time of the enclosure of common
lands in 1790, about nine acres were given in exchange
for other property belonging to this charity. In
1828 the portion of the rents applied towards carry-
ing on the school amounted to ^45 12s. per
annum, of which ^42 was paid to the school-master.
There was a school-room with a small house and garden,
the then master letting the latter, and receiving the
rent*

* Re fort of Itinerant Charity Commissioner s t 1828.

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

William Walker, in 1631, gave 10s. yearly to be paid
out of his estate, called Hillock Croft, in Matlock, to
be distributed to the poor by the minister, church-
wardens, and overseers, or the major part of them, for
ever.

Thomas Johns, in 1667, gave £2 to the poor, and
bibles to the value of jQi, charged on his estate at
Matlock, to be distributed by the minister, churchwar-
dens and overseers yearly, for ever.

This sum was secured on the Janckin Flat, Cause-
way-lane Meadow, and Dick Lands, situate in Matlock.
Up to 1827, the two latter fields were in the occupation
of Mr. Adam Wolley, who had paid one pound a year
for each.*

Daniel Clark, in 1726, left to the churchwardens and
overseers, and their successors, a rent charge of 10s.
yearly, to be paid to the poor of Matlock, out of his
estate, for ever.

In 1828, this sum was paid in respect of lands held
by Mr. Wigley Haywood Hodgkinson.

Joshua Bradley, in 1738, gave 10s. yearly to the poor,
to be paid out of the rents of a close, called Allcock,
lying in Matlock Bank.

Thomas Garratt, of Hornsey, Esq., by his will dated
23rd June, 1 791, gave to the rector and churchwardens
of Matlock for ever, ;£ioo, to be invested in Govern-
ment securities, to distribute the interest thereof yearly
on St Thomas's day, to and among twenty poor house-
keepers not receiving alms of the parish.

By his will in 181 8, confirming a deed made in the
previous year, the Rev. Francis Gisborne, of Staveley,

♦ Ibid, xi., 73.

THE MOTHER CHURCH.

left to the poor of Matlock for ever j£j 3s. secured on
the public funds. Mr. Gisborne, in his lifetime, trans-
ferred ,£16,167 13s. 4d. in the three per cent. Consols
to trustees, the dividend to be appropriated to the
purchase of coarse Yorkshire cloth or flannel for the use
and benefit of the poor in a hundred parishes or chapelries
in Derbyshire. He died in 1821, at the age of 89, and
left his property, amounting to about £60,000, to
charitable uses. After paying certain bequests, one-third
of the residue was to be, and was, added to the sum
mentioned above, and also invested in the three per cents.
for purchasing coarse cloth, etc., for the poor. The
share of Matlock was as already stated.*

The Endowed School now stands on a site at Matlock
Town, nearly opposite the Rectory gates. This school
was founded by the legacy of Mr. George Spatemanf in
1647. In 1817! the income was £24 per annum, four-
fifths of which was paid to the schoolmaster. Under the
Wolley legacy for this use, a piece of land was to have
been set apart to secure the income, but this having
been neglected to be done, a commission of charitable
uses was applied for on the part of the charity, and two
pieces of copyhold land let in 181 7 for j£ig 10s. per
annum were set apart for the use of the school. On the
enclosure of Matlock Common, an allotment was made
in right of these lands, and was let for £5 per annum.
At the time that the Lysonses wrote, the income of the
school was ^43 14s. per annum. It is stated to be
now £40 a year. New buildings were erected in 1870,

* Glover, ii., p. 217.

tThc Spatcmans were of Tansley. In 1654 John Spateman was
a Justice of the Peace for the county.
X Lysons' Derbyshire, p. 207.

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

and enlarged in 1889 at a cost of ^500. There is
accommodation for two hundred and fifty children in
the mixed and infants' departments.

A church school, conducted by Mrs. Thornewill, was
commenced at Starkholmes in 1872, and in 1875 there
were fifty children in attendance. A permanent building
for an infants' school, on a site convenient for Stark-
holmes, Riber, and Willersley Lane, was opened at Easter,
1879. I* i s a substantial gritstone structure of elegant
appearance exteriorly, and spacious and convenient
within. It is used as both church and school.

By an Order *in Council, signed at Windsor on the
1 8th of May, 1865, by her late Majesty Queen Victoria,
a tract off the eastern side of the parish was added to
what was then described as the Chapelry of Tansley.
The boundary of the portion of the parish of Matlock
thus detached is described in the Order, as is usual, with
great particularity, the fences of the closes along which
it passes being indicated by numbers on the Tithe Com-
mutation map. We shall, in a briefer manner, endeavour
to indicate how the line runs. Commencing upon the
boundary dividing Matlock from Ashover, at a point in
the middle of the turnpike road leading from Chesterfield
to Matlock, it extends thence south-westwards along the
middle of that road as far as a point distant 101 yards
south-west of the centre of Bentley Bridge, opposite to
the middle of the north-western end of the road leading
to Lumsdale, extending thence south-westwards to and
along the middle of the last-described road as far as a
point opposite to a boundary stone inscribed " T.C.D.,
1864, No. 1," placed on the western side of such road;
it then follows certain described fences, first westward
and then southward, to a boundary stone inscribed

THE MOTHER CHURCH.

"T.C.D., 1864, No. 2 "; it then goes to the road leading
from Matlock Bank to Lumsdale, and along the middle
of such road for a distance of forty-four yards or there-
abouts to a point opposite to the middle of the north-
western end of the road leading to the Hurst Farm, and
extending thence southward along the middle of the last-
described road to a point opposite to a boundary stone
inscribed "T.C.D., 1864, No. 3," placed on the eastern
side of such road, and extending thence eastward to a point
in the middle of a certain footpath leading from Matlock
Bank through Lumsdale to Matlock Cliff, and continuing
thence first southward, then eastward, to the boundary which
divides Matlock from Tansley at a point on the eastern
side of the road leading from Lumsdale to Matlock Cliff;
and also there was included that further portion of the
parish of Matlock situate to the east of a line commencing
on the last-described boundary at a point where such
boundary diverges eastward from the road leading from
Lumsdale to Matlock Cliff, extending thence along the
eastward side of the said road to its junction with the
turnpike road leading from Tansley to Matlock, extending
thence north-westward along the middle of the said road
forty-four yards, and then diverging and running to
Riber as far as a point on the northern side of the road
leading from Starkholmes to Riber, opposite to the middle
of the north-western end of the road leading to Hearth-
stone, and extending thence south-westward along the
middle of such road to a boundary stone inscribed
"T.C.D., 1864, No. 4," placed on the western side of such
road, and extending thence south-eastward to a boundary
stone inscribed "T.C.D., 1864, No. 5," and extending thence
to a point in the middle of the road leading from Castle Top

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

to Hearthstone, and extending thence north-westward along
the middle of such road to its junction with the road
leading from Hearthstone, past Littlestone, to Lea, and
extending thence first northward and then south-eastward
along the middle of the last-described road to the boundary
which divides the parish of Matlock from the chapelry
of Dethick and Lea, in the parish of Ashover.

The Institute and Parochial Hall at the Green, intended
as a place for reading, recreation, and play for men,
young men, and youths, was erected in 1897, and opened
on October 25th of that year. It is a comely and com-
modious stone structure, and includes billiard and reading
rooms, together with a gymnasium, all of convenient size.
A hall for meetings or other uses, on the first floor,
provides space for 250 to 300 persons. Temperance and
missionary meetings and the rector's important annual
parochial gatherings are held here. A caretaker's house
is attached. The cost of the building, put at ;£ 1,200,
was borne by Mr. Bailey, in whom it is still vested. A
skilled instructor is employed in the gymnasium. In the
reading room is a liberal and constant supply of newspapers
and periodicals. There is a football club connected with
the Institute. Simple refreshments are provided.

In the year 1880, after much feeling and opposition
had been excited, an Act was passed authorising the
burial of Nonconformists and others in Church of England
burial grounds without the service of that Church, and
in some cases with other services. The first interment
in Matlock Churchyard under this Act was made on
Christmas Day, 1880, the body buried being that of Drill-
Instructor Sergeant O'Brien, who was a Roman Catholic.
The officiating priest was the Rev. Canon McKenna, of
Derby. The Rev. W. R. Melville, the rector of the

THE MOTHER CHURCH.

parish, caused the bell to be tolled at the time of the
funeral.

A tradition is preserved that more than 250 years ago
a Mr. Davis took up his residence at Matlock Bank on
what is known as Davis's Lot. Before his death he
expressed a wish that the bells of the Parish Church
should be rung on the day of his interment. This was
done, and the custom has been continued on the death
of one of his descendants. An instance of its observance
occurred on the 26th of September, 1880, when John
Davis, of Matlock Bank, was buried in the Parish Church-
yard, and the bells were chimed unmuffled while the
ceremony was in progress.

CHAPTER i

THE PARISH AND INS

The Ancient Parish— Its Shape, Dimek
Features — Geological Basis — Ej
Tithes and their Value— Populat.
in 182 1 — Ecclesiastical and Civi
Plack-Names — Situation in Couni
Introduction of Local Govern*
Market— Fairs— Market Hall— Wat;
Sewerage Scheme — Gasworks — Pe*.
Office — Primitive Postal Arrang
Goods Transit— Bread and Corn in
Yeomanry — Rifle Club — Starkhol
Green Chapel— Dale Ferry and Foe
tive and Liberal Clubs — Technical
'95— Allotments— Royal Diamond Ji
— Hall Lees and other Open S
Supply— Birds' Sanctuary— Fire— Pri
Shelter— Brass Band— Floods— Fish
tion— Wild Animals— Flora.

THE ancient parish of Matlock, 1
the map, forms an \rr*<~.i-

THE PARISH AND INSTITUTIONS.

on the west, the base resting on the river Derwent between
Cromford and Lea on the south. It has an extreme
length of nearly rive miles, a width of two miles at the
middle and on the south, of one mile above the middle
on the north, gradually narrowing to a point at the
boundary in that quarter. Superficially, the parish com-
prises a deep and picturesque valley, flanked on either
side by bold, rocky, and mountainous eminences, with the
river Derwent, which enters the western boundary just
above Cawdor Bridge, running down its centre, and leaving
it at the junction with the Lea Brook on the south.

The greatest altitude is attained on Masson, the highest
point of which by survey is i,no feet above the Ordnance
datum, or mean sea level, at Trinity House, London.
About the northern apex of the parish, on Matlock Moor,
a height of nearly 1,000 feet is attained; on Riber, by
the brow overlooking Starkholmes, 813 feet; and on the
High Tor, 652 feet.

Geologically, speaking broadly, the parish rests on the
first or millstone grit at Riber Hill, Harston Hill (where
millstones were formerly made), Lumsdale, and Matlock
Bank; elsewhere, on the limestone measures, which rise
to the top of Masson and sink deep below the river's bed,
dipping from west to east. The second limestone is on
the surface at Masson top, and below lie the second
toadstone (as its local name is, but volcanic tuff as it is
in fact), third limestone, third toadstone, and fourth
limestone rock, in the order stated.

The ancient parish comprised 4,540 acres of land and 48
of water. Of this, an area taken in by the Inclosure
Acts passed in 1776 and 1780, amounted to 1,719 acres.
The latter Act directed that 350 acres of the worst of the

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

new allotments should be exempt from tithes for eight
years, the remainder to pay tithe immediately.* According
to Glover, who wrote in 1830, the landholders had paid
6s. per acre as tithe of hay and 12s. for wheat Mr. John
Nuttall, of Matlock, acted repeatedly as a commissioner
for settling claims under the Inclosure Acts, and is said
by Farey to have given general satisfaction. He and his
son, Mr. George Nuttall, gave much assistance and
information to Mr. Farey, whose work is founded on official
inquiries made for the Government of the day, under the
direction of the old Board of Agriculture and Internal
Improvement.

In 1 82 1 there were 605 houses in the parish, occupied
by 609 families, and 2,920 persons. Of the 609 families,
51 were chiefly employed in agriculture, 551 in trade or
handicraft, and 7 in professional pursuits or living on their
means. The principal manufactures were cotton spinning,
framework knitting, cotton wick, fluor spar ornaments,
bobbin net lace, hats, etc. At Lumsdale there were
extensive bleach works, and a bone mill, the property of
Mr. Garton. There were several mines, which gave
employment to some of the male population, while many
of the young females figured lace. There were three
water corn-mills and a paper mill in the parish. t

The population of the entire parish in 186 1 was 4,252;
in 1871, 5,220; in 1881, 6,093; in 1891, 7,131; reduced
in 1894 by 1,846 taken away with the parish of Matlock
Bath. In 1901 the population of Bank, Bridge, and Town
was 5,979, and of Matlock Bath 1,819 — a total for the
original parish of 7,798.

* Farcy ii., 79.

t Glover's Peak Guide, 104.

THE PARISH AND INSTITUTIONS.

Down to 1842, the parish was a single unit for all
purposes, ecclesiastical and civil It is now divided into
three ecclesiastical parishes (beyond the large piece
added to Tansley), with five churches and a
school-church, besides numerous Nonconformist chapels,
and into two civil areas, each endowed with local self-
government, namely, Matlock, and Matlock Bath and
Scarthin Nick. The ecclesiastical parishes are: the
portion of the ancient one still attached to the Church of
St Giles, including Starkholmes; Matlock Bath, with
auxiliary churches at Scarthin and Matlock Dale; and
Matlock Bank. The two District Councils are— one for
Matlock and another for Matlock Bath.

The ancient parish having been included in the Bake-
well Union since its formation for poor law purposes,
Matlock Bath, which was constituted a separate parish by
the Local Government Act of 1894, is consequently
included in that Union also. Both parishes elect guardians
to the Bakewell Board, their indoor poor go to the work-
house at that place, and their outdoor poor are relieved
from thence. Prior to the Act of 1834, the Matlock
paupers were sent to the Ashover House of Industry, to
which the inhabitants of this parish contributed. The
pauper children were apprenticed to farmers and trades.

The following are the names of localities, varying in
extent and population, into which the old parish is
divided : — Matlock Town (about the old church), Matlock
Green, Matlock Bank, Matlock Moor, Dimple, Allen Hill,
Matlock Bridge, Matlock Dale, Matlock Bath, Upper
Wood, Scarthin, Riber, Lumsdale, Matlock Cliff, Stark-
holmes, Willersley, and Bow or Bough Wood.

The whole of the ancient parish is in the Western

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

Parliamentary Division of the County, the Wapentake
and Petty Sessional Division of Wirksworth (though now
enjoying Petty Sessions of its own), Archdeaconry of
Derby, and Rural Deanery of Bakewell. The parish was
included in the County Court district of Wirksworth —
where the sittings were held— on the ioth of March,
1847. 1° 1890, shortly after the appointment of
Mr. Barber, Q.C., as Judge, and arising out of a hint
given by His Honour, based on the large proportion of
business flowing to the Court from this parish and district,
petitions praying for the holding of a Court at Matlock
were presented to him. These petitions were signed very
generally by magistrates, professional and business men,
and other inhabitants in Matlock, Matlock Bath, Darley,
Winster, Tansley, and Bonsall. The Judge then pro-
ceeded to move the Treasury, and found it a difficult
task. However, in the month of July an order of Queen
Victoria in Council was issued, authorising the holding of
a Court at Matlock as well as at Wirksworth. The first
sitting was held on the 6th October following, when the
Judge was welcomed and thanked by County Councillor
Job Smith on behalf of the community, and by Mr. James
Potter for the legal profession. The Court has since been
held at regular bi-monthly intervals. The Hon. Walter
Lindley, appointed in September, 1902, is the present
Judge. Public petitions from Matlock and the surround-
ing parishes, praying for monthly sittings here, were
presented to the Judge in November, 1902, but the effort
was unsuccessful.

Local self-government was adopted in 1861, and
Mr. Miles Sleigh, the present clerk to the Matlock Urban
Council, has furnished some interesting and rather curious

THE PARISH AND INSTITUTIONS.

particulars of the transactions which led up to that event.
On petition of the inhabitants, Matlock Bath had its
boundaries settled as a Local Government District, and
an order was issued by Sir George Grey, Home Secretary,
dated 9th November, 1861, under the Local Government
Act, 1858, giving it powers of self-government. The
parish of Matlock, by vote of the ratepayers, adopted the
Local Government Act, 1858, on the 18th of November,

1 86 1, and then objected to the Secretary of State pub-
lishing the notice that Matlock Bath had adopted the Act.
Representatives of Matlock Bath applied for a mandamus
to issue to the Secretary of State to publish the notice,
but the Court refused it, holding that Section 14 applied
to places the boundaries of which were settled by an
order of the Secretary of State, and that, therefore,
Matlock Bath could not adopt the Act unless the parish
of Matlock had refused to do so. The order of the Home
Secretary as to Matlock was gazetted on the 20th May,

1862, being dated the 14th of the same month. Applica-
tion for separation was then made by the Bath, and a
provisional order to that end was made on the 20th
October, 1862. The boundaries had been defined in the
previous abortive order, and remained as then settled.
The Bill to confirm this order was opposed, and Matlock
Bath was struck out of it by consent. Finally, an order
was made by the Home Secretary on the 15th June, 1864,
in which the boundaries of Scarthin Nick, which was then
excluded from Matlock and added to the Bath, are set
out. This order was confirmed by the Local Government
Board (No. 2) Supplementary Act, 1865. By order of
the County Council of Derbyshire, dated 10th August,
1894, the two districts of (1) Matlock and (2) Matlock

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

Bath and Scarthin Nick, were constituted the separate
parishes of (i) Matlock and (2) Matlock Bath.

In June, 1894, the Bridge Hall property, in Bank Road,
was purchased on behalf of the Matlock Urban Council
for ^1,750, the object being to provide a Town Hall
on the site. In August, 1896, a plot of land adjoining
the site of the above-named structure (which by this time
was known as the Town Hall) was purchased from the
Rev. C. Wolley-Dod for ^350. In January, 1899, plans
were prepared for converting Bridge Hall into a hall to
be used for the general public purposes of the Urban
District by the addition of a large wing. The main
features were a council chamber, 28 ft. by 17 ft, with
surveyor's and other offices and appurtenances, on the
ground floor; on the first floor, a main hall, 60 ft by
37 ft. by 18 ft. high, with accommodation and separate
entrance and retiring rooms for the magisterial bench.
Two balustrades or landings on the exterior afford means
of speaking to assemblies of people outside. The main
hall was designed to accommodate 450 persons. The
contract was let in March to Mr. Thomas Needham
at ;£ 1,630, and a sum of ^300 was voted for furnishing.
The Petty Sessions Court moved into the building
on the 10th October, 1900, when Captain Walker, J.P.,
and Mr. F. C. Lymn, for the legal profession, expressed
their satisfaction with the arrangements made for them
respectively. The County Court was also moved to the
Town Hall, where the first sitting of the Judge (Smyly)
was held on the 14th January, 1901.

There was formerly a market at Matlock, but at the
commencement of the nineteenth century this had been
so long discontinued that Farey left the day on which it
was held unrecorded.

THE PARISH AND INSTITUTIONS.

In 1887 a proposal was made by the Local Board to
purchase from the Lords of the Manor the tolls of the
local markets. The steward, under date 7th September,
replied that he " found there was a correspondence with
his predecessor, Mr. Newbold, on this subject, and that
the Board were then informed, on the strength of a
letter from the Land Commissioners, that there was no
power under the Copyhold Act to sell tolls."

On the 22nd of October following, a meeting of owners
and ratepayers formally convened for the purpose, under
the provisions of the Public Health Act, passed a resolu-
tion in these terms : " That it is expedient to provide a
market-house and other conveniences for the purpose of
holding markets, to provide all such matters and things
as may be necessary for the convenient use of such
market, to purchase or take on lease land and public
or private rights in markets and tolls, and to take stallages,
rents, and tolls in respect of the use by any person of such
market" This does not seem ever to have been acted
upon.

In the year 1880 the question of the desirability of
establishing a fortnightly cattle market was raised, and
at a meeting held on the 22nd of November a resolution
was passed recording the desirability of doing so. A
committee was appointed to interview the Local Board
as to applying for a charter, but it was subsequently found
unnecessary to seek a charter, the Board having statutory
authority to establish a market without one. At another
meeting on the 30th of November, attended by farmers,
cattle dealers, and inhabitants, it was stated that the
Local Board had recognised the necessity of opening a
cattle market in the parish, and it was resolved that such
a market should be started, to be held for the first time

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

on Monday, the 13th December, and continued fortnightly.
The market was duly opened on the Green accordingly,
and the intention having been well advertised, there was
a large show of stock, a good attendance of buyers, and
considerable business was done. The day for this market
was later changed to Thursday, and at certain seasons a
good deal of stock is shown and much business done.
In the course of the meeting last above mentioned, a
brass plate, then in the possession of Mr. Lindsay
Hodgkinson, and supposed to refer to a market, was
shown, whereon was this inscription : " Tolls for the use
of the Lord of the Manor granted by King Charles II.
in 165 1."* A butter and general market was opened in
the Market Hall on the 2nd of June, 1881. Now, the
principal days are Friday and Saturday, but the Market
Hall is open daily for the sale of provisions and other
commodities.

The old fairs were held on February 25th, May 9th,
July 1 6th, and October 24th (cattle and sheep). A second
fair is now held on April 2nd, the May fair thus becoming
the third; the July fair is omitted; and the date of the
fourth remains the same. Fat and store beasts, pigs,
sheep, and occasionally horses are brought to these fairs.
The pleasure of those who attend is also provided for,
the younger generation being tempted with the allure-
ments of swing-boats and merry-go-rounds, which are set
up in a field at the Green.

The Market Hall, a private undertaking, was commenced

in April, 1867, and opened on the 18th of May in the

following year. The style of architecture, which is but

tame, was described at the time as Continental Gothic.

* There is so far no voucher to the authenticity of this alleged
grant.

THE PARISH AND INSTITUTIONS.

The carved work at the front is of Darley white stone,
and was done by Mr. W. White, jun., of Northampton.
The hall proper, somewhat of a gloomy chamber, has
twelve shops arranged along two sides, let to various
tradesmen. There are also stalls for the sale of various
articles down the centre. Over this is the Assembly
Room, 74 ft. by 35 ft., and capable of seating five hundred
persons, approached by a wide stone staircase from the
entrance vestibule. Offices are also provided, and from
the lobby in front of these there is another staircase.
The scheme included the remodelling of the Queen's
Head Hotel, but was left incomplete for many years.
The architect employed was Mr. W. Hall, of Northampton.
The Matlock Water Company was established in i860,
when a special Act of Parliament was procured, by which
it was authorised to raise a capital of ,£4,000, and to
borrow an additional ;£ 1,000 on loan. The water supply
was obtained from the Wold spring, where a reservoir
twelve yards square was constructed. In 1881 the supply,
estimated at 113,385 gallons daily in the month of March,
but normally 90,000, was sufficient in winter, but owing to
the founding of several hydropathic establishments and
the increase of population, was inadequate in summer.
The Company, therefore, went to Parliament for sanction
to a Bill to enable them to construct additional works
and raise further capital. By this Bill it was proposed to
take three streams on the Lucas estate and another
on that of Mr. Young, which together produced 10,000
gallons per day, and the estimated cost of the new works
was ^4,300. The Bill passed, but the contract for the
new reservoir does not appear to have been let till 1885,
the accepted tender being for ^2,658. This reservoir,

....^ vji Wellington Inn. h\ the use of h
a >pot was indicated where water wc
Headings were driven, and a supply was
altitude of about 1,000 feet. A statem>
the local newspapers promulgated the
sufficient water had been found to serve t
generations to come; but the sequel shows
not a reliable prophecy. In March of this 3
pany issued ^5,000 of new capital in ;£ic
extended their works. Subsequently they ex,
capital-raising powers. Towards the end of
protracted negotiations, privately conducted.
Company agreed to sell, and the Urban
purchase, the undertaking for ;£ 18,550. In t
November, notices were published of an inten
tion to Parliament by the Council to purchas
works by compulsion or otherwise, to construct
to purchase Allen Hill Spa, and to construct
sewerage. The proposal as to water was
reservoir capable of containing 111,000,000
embanking the Bentley Brook, at Cuckoo
estimated cost nf /vro

THE PARISH AND INSTITUTIONS.

proposals were opposed in the House of Commons, but
the Committee on the Bill pronounced the preamble
proved, and it was passed. This Bill included powers for
spending a sum of ^2,000 in providing, fitting up, and
furnishing a Town Hall; for spending not exceeding
£100 a year for the maintenance of bands and supplying
other musical performances; and for fencing in open
spaces, such as the plot in front of what was the old Wheat
Sheaf Inn, at the Town.

Before the Bill passed the Lords it was discovered that
by Clause 6 powers were taken to supply the Matlock
Bath Urban District. It was thereupon resolved by the
Bath Council to oppose the Bill unless Clause 6 was
expunged. The Matlock Council declined to omit the
clause, on the ground that the area of the Water Company,
whose rights they were taking over, originally comprised
the whole of Matlock parish, but they offered to give an
undertaking not to supply Matlock Bath and Scarthin
Nick unless with the consent under seal of the Council of
that place. Not satisfied with this, the Bath Board
opposed the Bill before the Lords Committee, but were
unsuccessful, the Bill being passed with the clause retained.
Although they got these enlarged powers, the Council
hesitated to carry them out and incur the expenditure
they would involve. The Act, which cost ,£5,630 in taxed
costs to obtain, provided for the payment of the purchase
money to the Water Company on the 1st of July, 1898;*
but it was not till the end of 1890 that the Council took
steps to increase the supply. Mr. Matthews, of Pendleton,

# The payment was actually made on August 3rd, the Company
being afterwards wound up.

....»»ii jo; feet, water was
u. :h'.:i ^S it-rt .:i the surface. Pl
h\ei!, ami shortly before noon on th
Mr. Job Smith, chairman of the Cour
to work. A four-inch main had beei
through this, as it was pumped, ti
utilised. The new supply, which, aft
or four hours was quite clear, was an;
teapot and mixed with ardent spirit,
credit as being wholesome potable w
satisfaction of everyone concerned. T
derived at an elevation of 800 feet,
and in the following November the wa
that the Wold spring was nearly exhai
stone spring giving a poor supply, '
water was keeping the district suppli<
doing so for several weeks. This fortui
has continued.

To cover the purchase of the waterwc
of the Town Hall, and provide fc
authorised by their new Act. tK- TT '

• Q~-> --

THE PARISH AND INSTITUTIONS.

Matlock Bath, past Willersley to land in Cromford
Meadows, of which it was proposed to take eighteen acres
for the requisite works. The proposed scheme was
opposed by the Bakewell Rural District Council, Cromford
Parish Council, Mr. F. C. Arkwright, as principal and
almost sole landowner on the line; the Trustees of the
Nightingale estates, owners of 2,000 acres in the vicinity ;
and the Matlock Bath Urban Council. The House of
Commons Committee threw out this part of the Bill.

The first special step to supply Matlock with gas for
lighting purposes was taken on the 9th of May, 1857,
when a meeting was held at the Queen's Head Inn, and
a resolution passed to raise an additional capital of ;£ 1,000
to enable the Matlock Bath Company to supply the whole
parish. The capital was arranged to be issued in shares
of jQs each, with limited liability, and nearly a hundred
shares were subscribed for in the room. At a subsequent
date the property passed into the hands of Mr. Joseph
Winson — who erected additional works in the Darley
Road — and remained in his hands until his death. In
1886 a company was formed under the title of the Matlock
and District Gas Company, for the purpose of carrying
on the manufacture of gas at the works on the Darley
Road. The area of supply included the parish of Darley,
both north and south, the parish of Wensley and Snitterton,
and the parish of Tansley, in addition to Matlock. The
boundary line cutting off Matlock Bath leaves Riversdale
Cottages and the road leading thereto on the north, crosses
the High Tor to the junction of the footpath leading from
Matlock Town end of Starkholmes Lane with the footpath
leading from Starkholmes, thence in a straight line

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

south-eastwards, crossing Willersley Lane, going east to
Woodseats Farm, and thence in a straight line due east to
the easterly boundary of the Parish and Urban Council
district of Matlock. Mr. Robert Hall, accountant,
occupied the position of vendor, and it was stated in the
prospectus that the consideration money paid to Winson's
trustees was j£ 15,000 in cash and jQi,ooo in shares.
The capital of the company was fixed at ,£13,000 in ,£10
shares and ,£4,000 in debentures. The works were
described as being fitted with the newest and best
appliances for making gas of a high illuminating power,
and the consumption of gas was stated to be 100,000 cubic
feet per week. The promoters of the company were
Messrs. T. C. Drabble, R. Wildgoose, F. C. Arkwright,
C. Hill (Cromford), S. Skidmore (Matlock Bath), and
W. Wright, with Drs. Harrison, Moxon, and Hunter.
Mr. R. Hall became secretary of the company. The
authorised capital was by Act of Parliament raised to
£26,200 in 1 89 1, and the maximum price of gas fixed
at 4s. 3d. per 1,000 cubic feet.

Petty Sessions have been held here since 1868, the
magistrates sitting fortnightly, on Wednesdays, at the
Town Hall. Formerly the justices sat only at Wirksworth,
which still gives its name to the complete division. In
1893, a police station, with three cells for prisoners and
house for the resident inspector or sergeant, was erected
in Bank Road. Early in 1901, a groom's house, stable,
and coach-house were added, to fit the place for the
residence of the superintendent of the division, who was
moved h6re in the same year from Wirksworth, where
the headquarters had hitherto been located from the

THE PARISH AND INSTITUTIONS.

establishment of the county force, prior to which event
lockups and a keeper had been maintained at Wirksworth
for the division, the police work being done by the parish
constables appointed from year to year.

There are now Town Sub-Post Offices at Matlock
Bridge, Bank, and Green, at each of which money order,
savings bank, and telegraph business is done, as well as
the various classes of purely postal work, such as the sale
of stamps, receipt and despatch of letters, parcels, etc.
The Bridge office is the more important one, and here of
late years the amount of work has extended at a rapid
rate, until it is now very large. Formerly this office was
located at a shop in Holt Lane, where that thoroughfare
bends for the descent to the bridge. Now it is lower
down, and the premises, having become too small for the
requirements, have recently been much enlarged. The
deliveries and despatches are the same in number as at
Matlock Bath. Mr. George Hodgkinson, who succeeded
his fattier, is the postmaster.

In 1 814, letters were carried by a mounted postman,
who set out from Bakewell early every morning, passed
through Matlock and Wirksworth on his way to Derby, and
returned in the evening. The rates of postage at that
time were from any post office in England and Wales to
any place not exceeding 15 miles from such office, 3d.;
above 15 and not exceeding 30 miles, 4d. ; 30 to 50 miles,
5d. ; 50 to 80, 6d. ; 80 to 120, 7d. ; 120 to 170, 8d. ;
170 to 230, 9d. ; 230 to 300, iod. ; 300 to 400, nd. ;
400 to 500, 1 2d. ; one penny more for every additional
hundred miles. The lowest official rate thus being 3d.,
a penny post office was established at Matlock, conducted

5 65

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

by one Adam Walker, a saddler. This would be a private
undertaking and for short distances.

Passengers were conveyed in 1 8 14 by a coach running
each way daily through Matlock to London and Manchester
respectively. Goods and parcels from the south were
brought by a carrier, who met the London wagons at the
Tiger Inn, Derby, every Monday and Friday.

The autumn of 1800 was a time of scarcity and high
prices in regard to wheat and flour especially. On the
30th October, a meeting, described as numerously and
respectably attended, was held at Matlock to consider the
best means of lowering the alarming price of bread-corn,
when an association and subscription were entered into
to prosecute any person guilty of forestalling or regrating.*
At this time the farmers were accused of holding back
their corn from the markets. Riots took place in the
county owing to the high prices of bread and provisions
generally.

In 1803, a large force of volunteer infantry was raised
in the county and maintained for five years. Of this there
was a Matlock, Dethick and Lea Company recruited in
the places named, consisting of sixty men. Their services
were formally accepted by King George III. on the 30th
September. The officers were: George Hodgkinson,
captain; John Leedham, lieutenant; George Nuttall,
ensign. The corps formed part of the Wirksworth
battalion, of which Charles Arkwright, Esq., was the
Lieut-Colonel, and Peter Arkwright, Esq., the captain of
a company.

* Buying provisions and selling them again in the same market
in order to raise the price.

THE PARISH AND INSTITUTIONS.

A section of Infantry Rifle Volunteers was raised here
on the formation of that great national patriotic force in
1859, and Matlock has ever since been, and is still, the
headquarters of a company. This is now known as the
F Company of the 2nd Volunteer Battalion of the
Sherwood Foresters (Notts, and Derbyshire Regiment).

Of late years the B Troop of Derbyshire Yeomanry
Cavalry has also had its headquarters here ; but its designa-
tion as the Matlock Troop is about being changed for a
wider territorial title, with a larger area to be called on
for recruits.

Both these bodies of citizen soldiers supplied drafts to
reinforce the army at the front in the Boer War of 1900-2,
and in giving a " send-off " to these parties and receiving
again those who returned the enthusiastic patriotism
of the inhabitants of all the Matlocks was warmly
demonstrated.

In the early years of the still subsisting volunteer infantry
forces, a feeling of considerable friendliness and even
comradeship grew up between the Volunteers of Belgium
and our own. One result of this was that in July, 1867,
a large contingent of the citizen-soldiers of Belgium paid
a visit to this country. A detachment of twenty-five men,
under the command of Major Stoeffs, arrived in Derby
from London on the 22nd of July, and was enthusiastically
welcomed. That night was spent in fraternising with
their English brethren-in-arms, and in being f&ted and
banqueted. The next morning the members of the detach-
ment, attired in their national uniforms, proceeded by train
to Cromford, where they alighted to walk through Matlock
Bath and the Dale to Matlock Bridge. At Cromford

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

station they were met by the Rev. R. M. Jones, then vicar
of the parish, who welcomed them by an address in the
French language. They were also greeted by the Rev.
Lucius Arthur, then of Bridge House, who made an offer of
hospitality that was freely taken advantage of. The party
next proceeded, accompanied by several members and
officials of the Derby Corporation, as well as Press repre-
sentatives and others who had come with them in the
train, along the route already indicated, and were so much
pleased and impressed by the scenery on either hand and
all around as to cause them to audibly express from time
to time their admiration. At Matlock Bridge, Mr. J. S.
Clarke, of Derby, who then resided at the house by the
railway gate, offered champagne in jugs and pails, with
the accompaniment of sandwiches, which were generally
partaken of and enjoyed. They then entrained and went
forward to Rowsley, from whence they were driven to
Haddon Hall, and afterwards to Chatsworth. Here, at
the instance of the Duke of Devonshire, who was, however,
elsewhere at the time, a cold collation was provided for
all, and after this had been partaken of mutual good
wishes were exchanged under the usual British form of
toasts. In the evening the Volunteers returned to Derby
with their English friends, and at night took part in a
great ball in the Assembly Rooms, lent by the county
gentry, to whom they belong, for the occasion. Next
day the Belgians left for London en route for their own
country.

The Matlock and District Rifle Club was started in
1900, at the instance of Mr. F. C. Arkwright, of Willersley,
who was interested in a movement for the purpose of

THE PARISH AND INSTITUTIONS.

making more expert shots within the parish as well as in
the county generally. At first there were six branches,
including Matlock, Matlock Bath, Tansley, Cromford,
Darley Dale, and Lea and Holloway. Lea and Holloway
was the most successful branch, Cromford coming next;
the perseverance of these branches no doubt being
accounted for by their good fortune in having a range
constructed on Castle Top Farm through the generosity
of Mr. Arkwright, who gave the land, and, with Mr. J. B.
Marsden-Smedley, paid the bulk of the costs of construc-
tion. Mr. Wm. JafFrey, C.E., gave his services, and
constructed the range to the approval of the War Office.
The other places were lethargic from various causes,
though in Matlock a good many subscriptions were
obtained. Matlock Bath was, in 1902, attached to Crom-
ford. By association all the places included in the club
obtain connection with the National Rifle Association for
a single subscription. The advantage of this connection
is that members of the club have the privilege of obtaining
rifles and ammunition at cost price, as well as of sending
representatives to shoot in the annual competitions at
Bisley. The president of the club is Mr. F. C. Arkwright,
and the secretary, Mr. W. Jaffrey, of the Volunteers.

The Primitive Methodist Chapel, situate on an elevated
site at Starkholmes, was erected in 1823, when a plot of
land for the purpose was purchased by Mr. A. Duffin and
others from John Higgott, of Riber, farmer, for the sum
of £1 10s. The chapel contains 180 sittings, and is
furnished with an organ. Under the building, which
stands on a slope, is a schoolroom. The Rev. James
Burton, of Matlock Bank, is the officiating minister.

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

The foundation of the Congregational Chapel at the
Green was laid on the 15th of May, 1848, and the build-
ing was opened on the 13th of September following. The
chapel and school were designed to accommodate 300
persons. Prior to the provision of this chapel, services
in accordance with the forms of the denomination had
been conducted by the Rev. T. M. Newnes, of Matlock
Bath. The present Congregational Church is at the Bank,
and is referred to in another chapter.

At the site of the public footbridge over the river, at the
extreme northern boundary of Matlock Bath, a ferry-
boat for the convenience of passengers to and from Matlock
Town was formerly kept There was another such boat
further on towards the Bridge. This plied from a landing
near the Boathouse Inn, which derived its name from the
fact In July, 1871, steps were taken to promote the
erection of a bridge. The necessary funds having been
raised by subscription, the bridge was erected and made
available for use in the autumn of 1872. In the great
flood of February, 1881 (more fully noticed later), this
bridge was washed away. A new iron suspension bridge
supported by a stone pier on either bank, was erected in
February, 1882. The floor of this bridge was so raised
above the known flood level as to render it safe in
future inundations, and it has so far remained uninjured.
The cost of the ironwork was ^240, that of the piers
being provided by the Misses Askew.

The Conservative Club, at first called a Working Man's
Club, was inaugurated on the 29th of June, 1880, Mr. F.
C. Arkwright and Mr. R. W. M. Nesfield, of Bakewell,
acting as leaders on the occasion. Captain Sidebotham,

THE PARISH AND INSTITUTIONS.

who had been a short time previously Conservative candi-
date for North Derbyshire, was also present and bore a
conspicuous share in the proceedings. The premises were
situate near the post office, and so many members, it was
stated, had joined that the accommodation had already
become insufficient. The Conservative Club is now
located in rooms, north-east of the Bridge, in Crown
Square, into which it was decided to move at the end of
January, 1897, the formal opening by Mr. Victor
Cavendish, M.P., taking place on the 30th November in
the same year.

A Liberal Club was opened on the 1st of July, 1880,
when it had between 30 and 40 members. The formal
inauguration was held on .the 18th of the following
November, when there were 150 members. Lord Edward
Cavendish, M.P., and Mr. J. F. Cheetham, M.P., attended
and delivered addresses at the inauguration. The club
rooms were situated over the premises of Mr. W. M.
Moore, in the Dale Road. Mr. E. M. Wass, of Lea, was
the first president The club is now located in the Town
Hall.

The Technical School, which has well-appointed rooms
in the Dale Road, was started in 1891. The curriculum
is a varied and liberal one. Students are taught fruit-
growing and gardening, dressmaking, cookery, or short-
hand; in science— electricity and magnetism, geology,
physiography, geometry, and building construction ; in art —
drawing and painting in all their branches, whichever they
like to take up; all in the same year. In September,
1900, the Evening Continuation Classes of the School
Board were amalgamated with the Technical School, thus

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

foreshadowing the decision to which the National Govern-
ment came in 1902 to decree a general fusion of the same
sort. At the same time the governing body was made
more representative of various shades of opinion.

The winter of 1895 was so severe as to be noteworthy.
There was a heavy snowfall on the night of January
ioth-nth, and throughout the county and country the
cold was intense. In this parish, in exposed places, the
snow, in the high wind that prevailed, drifted to the depth
of six to seven feet. Severe frost continued during several
weeks, and towards the end of January there was a
further fall of snow, which lay deep on the roads and
land. The surface of the river was frozen from the foot-
bridge to artists 1 comer, and at Matlock Bath from the
ferry to the weir. On Sunday, February 10th, many
young and some adult people went on the last-named
sheet of ice. Work was stopped, distress ensued, and
steps were taken to relieve the needs of the displaced out-
door workers in Matlock and Matlock Bath, through
relief committees and by individual action. Meat, soup,
coals, and groceries were distributed. On Sunday,
February 10th, no evening service could be held in the
Congregational Church owing to the freezing of water
connected with the gas supply; and on the same day the
bursting of a steam pipe in the heating apparatus at
Matlock Bath Church brought the morning service to a
premature close. During the continuance of the frost,
coveys of grouse from the moors came down to the valley
on the Darley side in search of food, the birds appearing
to be bordering on starvation. When the frost broke, the
bursting of supply pipes involved the Water Company in
the expenditure of a large sum of money.

THE PARISH AND INSTITUTIONS.

Steps for setting apart land for allotment gardens for
such people as desired them were taken at a meeting held
on the 1 8th of January, 1895. Mr. F. C. Arkwright and
the Rector, who were present, offered to let a field in
which they were jointly interested — the latter as part of
his glebe — for the purpose. The field selected was
upwards of three acres in extent, and situated in Stark-
holmes Lane. The final arrangements for letting were
made towards the end of February, and the tenants
admitted on the 22nd of March, when there proved to be
more applicants than allotments, so that some were
disappointed.

Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee was celebrated with
every demonstration of loyal feeling on the 22nd of June,
1897. The Urban Council voted j£ioo of public money,
and the following programme was carried out: — There
was a dinner for the aged people at one o'clock ; at three
a general assembly on the cricket ground, which was
attended by a great number of children and adults, to
whom an address was given by Mr. Slack, chairman of
the Urban Council ; at four, tea, with luxurious accompani-
ments, was distributed to the children ; at six, there were
sports on the cricket ground; and at nine, a bonfire and
fireworks on Masson. The Starkholmes people were
provided for in their own locality, and had a very similar
programme. The residents on the moor celebrated the
Jubilee much later; but they did so with exemplary
heartiness on the 15th of July, when they foregathered in
a field on Asker Farm.

The erection of the Harrison almshouses, situate in
Causeway Lane, leading from the Bridge to the Green,

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

was commenced on the 22nd of June, 1897, Queen
Victoria's Diamond Jubilee day, as is commemorated by
an inscription on a stone laid by Miss Margaret Harrison.
The houses are substantially built of stone, have gardens
planted with shrubs and supplied with seats, and look
out towards the Church Rocks and the ancient tower of
the parish church above them. They were dedicated by
the Right Rev. Dr. Were, Suffragan Bishop of Derby, on
the 20th of October, 1898, when they were completed
and occupied. There are six separate residences. Over
the central doorway is the following inscription : —

" To the Glory of God
these Almshouses are built, and as a memorial of her
beloved brother, Wm. Harrison, M.D., of Dean Hill
House, Matlock, by his sister, Margaret Harrison, to
provide rest for the aged poor."

The first Board of Governors consisted of Mr. Job
Smith, the Rev. J. W. Kewley (Rector), Rev. A. Lowe,
Mr. F. C. Arkwright, Mr. R. Wildgoose, Mr. W. Kirkland,
and Miss Harrison. The deed of conveyance was handed
for safe custody to the Rector. The sum bestowed on
these almshouses was ^8,000, of which ^5,400 constitutes
the endowment. The allowance to the inmates is 6s.
per week each.

In February, 1898, Mr. Henry Knowles, the owner,
offered to transfer all the land between the river bank
and the public footpath running across the fields known
as the Hall Leas from Crown Square to Knowlston
Place to the public for ever as a promenade and pleasure
resort, and on the 24th of June following the Council
voted ^£500 for the same. The land was fenced off in

THE PARISH AND INSTITUTIONS.

June of the succeeding year, and daily popular entertain-
ments are given here in the season. In the following
September an arrangement was made to extend the
promenade across Bentley Brook and over the lands of
the High Tor Recreation Company between the river and
High Tor, the rent payable being ten guineas per annum.
This proposal was consummated at the end of July, 1902.
The purchase money for the Hall Lees was borrowed, the
repayment being spread over fifty years.

The Knowlston Place ornamental grounds were
purchased on behalf of the Urban District as a
public open space in June, 1899, for the sum of ^200,
which included timber, seats, etc. The place came into
the possession of the Council as soon as the contract
was signed, but the purchase was not completed till the
month of November.

In October of the same year the Urban Council acquired
the Allcock, a plot of land containing 2,433 square yards,
situate in Smedley Street, Bank, the price paid being
^203 4s. 8d., which was regarded as fair and reasonable.
The object, besides that of obtaining an open space, was
to secure an unobstructed view of the valley of the Derwent,
which has many attractive features as seen from this point.
On account of this purchase, the Council borrowed ^910,
which included the cost of necessary roads, drainage, and
channelling. The larger part of the necessary capital
was borrowed few fifty, the rest for twenty-three years.

A proposal to re-sell the Knowlston Place and Allcock
lands was discussed by the Council on the 5th November,
1899. On a division there was an equality of votes for
and against, and as the chairman (Mr. Job Smith, who

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

opened for use and the clock started by the donor and
his wife on the 12 th December, 1899, the Chairman of
the Urban Council, Mr. £. Slack, and many of the
inhabitants being present to express their hearty acknow-
ledgments. A suitably inscribed brass plate perpetuates
the name of the generous donor, the cost to whom was

The Matlock District Sunday School Union of the
Nonconformist churches was resuscitated in the beginning
of 1900, after having been four years in abeyance. The
Union includes Matlock, Matlock Bath, Matlock Bank,
Wirksworth, Bonsall, Starkholmes, Tansley, Crich,
Fritchley, Holloway, and Cromford.

Formed fourteen or fifteen years ago, the Matlock *nd
District Ploughing Association fulfils a very useful mission
successfully. The president is Mr. J. B. Marsden-
Smedley, of Lea.

A Working Men's Club was opened at Prince's Build-
ings, Crown Square, on the 1st December, 1900. In a
few days 100 members were enrolled. The main room
is large and commodious. Mr. Wm. Newnes, who was
the founder, was elected chairman of the Managing
Committee.

One of the local institutions for the last half century
has been a brass band. In the early days of the Volunteer
movement, and for many years afterwards, the Matlock
band was attached to the local Volunteers and wore the
uniform. Mr. John Naylor, of Sutton-in-Ashfield, an
accomplished cornettist, was the trainer and leader, Mr.
George Knowles, a native, taking great interest in and
spending much time and money on it The present Matlock

THE PARISH AND INSTITUTIONS.

United Prize Band came into existence in 1894, after
a period of abeyance. It was joined by several members
of the old band, but now consists entirely of the younger
generation, the capable bandmaster being Mr. H.
Holmes. The organisation has been successful in taking
many prizes at contests.

There was a heavy flood on the Derwent in the first
week of October, 1880. On Monday and Tuesday, the
4th and 5th of that month, a storm of rain raged over the
north, south and east of the county. It was accompanied
by high winds, which in some places uprooted trees and
damaged dwelling-houses, this ingredient being specially
prominent at Bakewell. All down the valley to and
through Matlock and Matlock Bath the river overflowed,
but although the waters rose abnormally high, the damage
done was of limited amount.

In the matter of floods, Matlock was remarkably
unfortunate, and suffered severely, in the year 1881. What
is recorded as a fearful inundation fell upon the parish
early in February. On Monday, the 7th of that month,
there was a heavy snowfall in the parish, and to the north,
east, and west of it, accompanied by high wind. The
storm continued on the following day, when the downfall
turned to rain, which was torrential. Rain and melted
snow soon raised the level of the river above the normal,
and it continued to rise until the Hall Lees fields were
covered with water, and the hollow in the roads north-
east of the bridge was filled. The rise continued with
great rapidity until intercommunication was at a standstill,
and people away from their homes across the bridge on
either side of the valley were unable to get back again.

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

So high did the waters rise that the railway was
flooded, and no train was permitted to proceed northward
beyond Matlock Bridge. The consequence was that
numbers of passengers had their journey arrested, and
upwards of 150 persons had to be accommodated at the
Queen's Head Hotel and elsewhere. The waters kept
on rising till eleven o'clock at night, when it was affirmed
that they were higher than at any previous time. Many
dwellings up to then considered beyond the range of any
overflow of the river were inundated, to the great damage
of carpets and furniture, wherever they had not been
previously removed. The face of the country north and
south in the Derwent valley was converted to the appear-
ance of an inland sea. The footbridge across the river
to Matlock Town was washed down and wrecked ; whilst
lower down the bridge leading to the paint works and
High Tor Grotto was also destroyed. There was a
strong current of water three to four feet deep running
along the roadway, as if it were part of the river, to
and through Matlock Bath. The asphalt footpaths were
washed up by the flood, strong walls thrown down, and
the roadways much furrowed and damaged. A long time
elapsed before the traces of this phenomenal flood were
obliterated.

Heavy rains again fell on the 4th, 5th, and 6th of
March, with the result that the valley from Matlock
Bridge northward to and above Darley, as well as south-
ward through Matlock Bath, was filled with the consequent
flood. Northward the waters rose in many places to
within a few feet of the top of the railway embankment.
Many fences were entirely and trees partially submerged,

THE PARISH AND INSTITUTIONS.

and the waters so spread out that the ordinary course
of the river could not be discerned. The face of the
vast waters was lashed by a high wind. On this
occasion there had been snow before the rain.

A third flood occurred in this unlucky year. On the
13th and 14th of October there was a great storm of
wind and rain. Once more the river overflowed at
Matlock, covering many fields to a considerable depth
Trees were uprooted by the wind, which rose to hurricane
height, and traffic was impeded by the blocking and
flooding, in the less elevated parts, of the roads. Several
windows were blown in, and slated and thatched roofs
damaged. A stack of hay in a riverside meadow, in
danger of being washed away, was only secured by men
working up to their waists in water to fasten it with chains.

There having been continuous rain in the Peak from
the night of November 13th to the moming of the 15th,
1890, on the 14th, which was a Sunday, the river began
to rise, and by night was in high flood. The Hall Lees
and the Bakewell Road were submerged, and the water
flowed into the lower parts of the Railway Hotel. The
rise continued throughout the night, and by Monday
morning the appearance over the low-lying land was that
of a lake, Causeway Lane, Knowlston Place, and the
main road at the Green being invaded. A boat was
introduced to ply across Crown Square from the Bridge
to the foot of the Bank. Cattle and pigs in the Old
English Hotel grounds had to be removed elsewhere for
safety. The scene up the valley above the Bridge, viewed
from Pig Tor, was that of a continuous broad sheet of
water, in which the course of the river was obscured.
6 81

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

On the road to Matlock Bath there was a depth of four
to five feet of water.

The river was in very high flood on the last days of
the year 1901. In the preceding week there had been
an exceptionally heavy snowfall, which had covered the
hills of the Peak and the whole of this part of Derby-
shire to a great depth, at the same time loading the
telegraph and telephone wires heavily. Then came frost
and high wind, the consequence being that the wires,
and in some instances the poles, gave way, interrupting
communications. On Sunday, the 29th of December, a
thaw set in, and rain fell heavily and continuously for
many hours. The temperature rose considerably, the
snow rapidly melted, and uniting with the rainfall formed
torrents of water, which drained rapidly into the Derwent
valley. The river began to rise, and between five and six
o'clock on the Monday afternoon had overflowed into
Crown Square so far as to stop work in the blacksmith's
shop situate on the lowest level. Between seven and eight
the rise amounted to a foot in the hour. By ten o'clock
the water had flowed on to the road by the Boathouse
Inn, and rendered it impassable for foot-passengers. The
difficulty was got over by some men coming forward and
carrying each individual foot-passenger across the flood
for a fee of one or two pence. On the Bakewell road
the water rose to a height of from five to six feet, for-
bidding wading, and rendering a detour on the Bank side
necessary. Crown Square was deeply under water, greatly
to the inconvenience of many persons on pleasure bent,
going to attend various festive celebrations customarily
held at this time. Here the carrying of passengers on

THE PARISH AND INSTITUTIONS.

the backs of men was also in vogue, to the considerable
profit of some of those who acted as carriers. By two
o'clock in the morning there were three feet of water
on the road by the Boathouse Inn. By seven on the
Tuesday morning the flood was at its highest. It had
then covered Crown Square, and stopped business at all
the shops by flooding or blocking them. The Railway
Hotel had between four and five feet of water in the
lower rooms, and this continued for twelve hours. In
the shop opposite to this hotel the water rose above the
counters, and all the adjacent houses were flooded or
isolated. During the whole of Tuesday morning boats,
punts, and rafts were in use in this locality to supply the
needs of the inhabitants in getting about their ordinary
business. The outlook from the county bridge disclosed
water everywhere in the lower levels of the valley. The
Hall Lees were covered by water, as well as the grounds
of the Old English Hotel and the neighbouring houses
on that side. Viewed from an eminence, the scene up
Darley Dale on Tuesday morning was very remarkable.
In the bright sunshine then prevailing the valley, as far
as vision carried, had the appearance of an enormous
lake of running water. With the aid of a field-glass the
tops of houses and trees could be made out. The rail-
way at Cawdor Bridge was by a few inches only above
the surging flood, and the Midland Railway traffic con-
tinued uninterruptedly. The cable tramway was stopped
owing to the water flooding the underground wheels in
Crown Square. The twopenny omnibuses between Mat-
lock Bridge and Matlock Bath continued to ply in the
day time and did a good business. More rain fell on the

»3

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

Tuesday night, but the river did not again rise, the
downfall not having apparently extended to the Peak.
On Thursday there was still a heavy flow of flood water
down the river, the continued rains which fell from time
to time in the interval having prevented its subsidence.
The highest rise of the waters above the normal average
level was eleven feet. During the height of the flood the
river ran with a rush and roar, its noise being accom-
panied by the cries of alarm of pigs and cattle quartered
near its banks. Serious damage was done in many of
the flooded shops and cellars.

The trout in the Derwent, the Dove, the Wye, the
Lathkil, and others of the rivers and rivulets of this
county are very fine, and during the season most of the
innkeepers procure and dress them in a good style for
their guests ; they usually run from i lb. to z\ lbs. weight ;
and such " would probably be more plentiful but for the
gropers, a kind of poacher, who in dry and hot weather
wade the rivulets and brooks and gently feel for and
take these fish with their hands when asleep under the
ledges of the rocks, roots of trees, etc." Thus wrote
Farey, but we fear the time for catching; trout asleep has
receded into the far distance. Those in the Derwent,
at any rate, are possessed of a fine faculty of discrimina-
tion, and the artificial fly to deceive and take them must
be artistically made to imitate nature and deftly thrown
on the water. The Matlock and Cromford Angling
Association, which was formed in 1884, and of which
Mr. Henry Cooper, now of Cromford, is the able and
successful secretary and treasurer, preserves the whole
length of river from the northern to the southern boundary

THE PARISH AND INSTITUTIONS.

of the parish, and one mile beyond the latter. Mr. F. C.
Arkwright, of Willersley, who is the principal riparian
owner, and also president of the club, set an excellent
example by letting his water to the association for a truly
nominal sum. When the association came into being,
the stock of fish, which includes grayling as well as trout,
was at a very low ebb, but it has been raised by means
of artificial breeding and rearing to a high level. Much
fish is now taken in the course of the year — the trout
season being from March 25th to September 30th; that
for grayling from June 15 th to January 31st — and owing
to the introduction of the Loch Leven trout, and their
crossing with the natives of the water, many fish of heavy
weights have of late years been captured, while the general
average number of the fish caught is a high one. The
hatchery is on the east side of the river, immediately
above the south weir. Here the ova are hatched out by
means of a never-failing spring of pure water issuing from
the base of the adjacent rocks, and the young fry care-
fully nursed. When old enough they are transferred to
the rearing tanks below the weir, and are there kept and
artificially fed till two years old, when they are distributed
about the river to take care of themselves. One of the
fine series of tanks is occupied by large parent fish, from
whom the native ova — spawn and milt — are annually taken
by hand.

The river is much polluted by the sewage of Matlock
and Matlock Bath, a great deal of which — although the
County Council have for many years had powers to deal
with river pollution — flows into it in a crude state. This
fosters the growth of parasites, which, when the river is

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

nest of leaves, grass, and fine roots, and bring forth one
litter of young only in the year, usually numbering four
or five. Moles are constantly persecuted by the farmer,
and no wonder, for in some of the southern counties fields
are to be seen covered with mole-hills but a few inches
apart. It is to be questioned if the hillocks of soil, if
spread about, would not actually benefit the grass, seeing
how common is the practice of spreading soil on lawns
and other plots of grass in order to nourish and strengthen
the growth.

The water vole (arvicola amphibius) is another interest-
ing creature from the naturalistic point of view. It is
about the same size as the brown rat; and rat it is com-
monly called in this parish. It has dark brown or black
fur, a tail about half the length of the body, a very strong
head, feet with fine round pads on their lower surfaces.
It burrows in the banks and by the sides of streams, and
lives for the most part on vegetable food, though he will
eat a frog, fish, or the like, when he has the chance. In
summer the female has three or four litters of from two
to seven young.

In 1884, Mr. J. G. Baker, F.R.S., and the Rev. W. W.
Newbould, M.A., published some " Notes on the Flora of
Matlock,"* in the introduction to which they made the
following observation: "The fauna of Derbyshire is of
great general interest, because the position and physical
configuration of the county are such that it shows better
than any other the blending of the flora of the north of
England into that of the Midland counties. It is the
county that shows the best and widest range we get in

* Journal of Botany, 1884, p. 334.

THE PARISH AND INSTITUTIONS.

any one county of Watson's agrarian region. Perhaps no
other county is better divided out, apart from climate,
into well-marked physical divisions. In Derbyshire there
are three of these: ist, the low country apart from the
hills ; 2nd, the limestone hills and valleys ; 3rd, the ridges
and slopes of millstone grit." In Matlock there are all
these three divisions, and as a consequence there are great
wealth and variety of flowering plants within the
area of the parish. A list with scientific Latin names,
however interesting to the expert, is neither attractive nor
informing to the ordinary reader, and therefore one is not
here inserted. But to those who are more deeply inter-
ested in the subject of the flora of the parish it will be
useful to mention that the Rev. W. R. Linton, M.A.,
F.L.S., who has written the botanical section for the
Victoria county history of Derbyshire, is about to publish
a book on the flora of the county, in which the plants of
Matlock will be included.

CHAPTER IV.

COMMONS, ROADS, CUSTOMS, ANTIQUITIES, Etc.

Masson— Commons and Commoners' Rights — Enclosures —
Roads— Matlock Bridge — Cromford Bridge — Canal-
Railway— Industries and Manufactures— Grazing on
the Hills— Meres — Wakes — Plough Monday— Fifth of
November— Christmas — Guisers — Phcebe Bown — Surname
of Matlock— Folk Lore — Antique Urn — Pre-historic
Burial-place— The Broad or Wishing Stone— Stocks.

MASSON, which is now the name of a limited area
on the summit of the highest peak in the parish,
situate above the Heights of Abraham, was for-
merly that of an extensive tract of common land, which
descended to the river, and extended a long way in the
direction of Cromford, as witness Masson Mill, and
Masson House on the slope above. The inference would
therefore be that the original bath was situate upon this
common, and this we find was the case. In August, 1727,
no fewer than three counsel were consulted as to the rights
of the commoners as against the lords of the manor, who
had let land for buildings, first to George Wragg and
afterwards to his successor, Pennell. Three " cases " were
drawn, which, with the several " opinions " of Mr. Abney,
Mr. Willes, and Mr. Holden, have been preserved.* Each

* Add. MSS. {Wollt/s) t 6668, ft 347*352.

COMMONS, ROADS, CUSTOMS, ANTIQUITIES, Etc.

case recited that the manor of Matlock was very extensive,
and had in it several large commons, one of which was
called Masson, and that the freeholders and copyholders,
time out of mind, had right of common for all manner
of cattle thereon. Complaint was made that the trustees
of the manor had let "a ffyne spring of water" to one
George Wragg at 2s. 6d. per year or some other small
reserved rent, that Wragg enlarged the bath and erected
several buildings for the convenience of such bath, and
that he now might let it for ^50 or £60 per annum.
Then the lords (i.e., the copyholders) were wroth with
the trustees and threatened to make them answer for it,
when the lessee agreed to give the lords £70 to confirm
the lease and to add to it two acres of land upon Masson.
Mr. Pennell then purchased and was erecting a new bath-
house. Mr. Samuel Richardson, proprietor of the " Foun-
tain " (then called the Hotel Bath, as it was attached to
the Great Hotel on the South Parade), and who was the
instigator of the drawing of the " cases," alleged that those
under whom he claimed always had the right of common
over the site, and used to turn their cattle out of their
own land upon it. The question put to counsel was
whether Richardson could in any way lawfully prevent the
carrying on of building. Each barrister gave different
advice, but that of Mr. Holden was that Richardson
might "prostrate the buildings." That course does not
seem to have been followed, and the dispute was doubtless
arranged.

In 1775-6, an Act was passed for enclosing Masson
Common, situate in the parishes of Matlock and Bonsall,
the boundary line between the two passing through it.

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

Of this common, the land in Matlock was 200 acres,
and this was to be enclosed and divided between the free-
holders and copyholders, the latter, as lords of the manor,
getting one twenty-second part of the whole "in lieu of
compensation for their right in the soil and the getting of
lapis calaminaris or other stone thereon." Allotments
were also made to the rector, to hospitals, and private
persons, and after the award all rights of common were
to cease ; but the land was to be and remain in the Ring's
Field of Low Peak or Wapentake of Wirksworth, and to
continue subject to the mining and other customs. The
arbitrator appointed by the Act was Mr. Alexander
Barker, of Edensor.

In 1780, another enclosure of common land took place
on the initiative of Peter Nightingale, John Wolley, and
several others, lords of the manor, the Act which was
passed extending to 1,500 acres of land, though according
to Glover,* the two awards (i.e., this and the one pre-
viously described), made doubtless after actual survey,
covered 1,719 acres, which tallies with the figures given
in Chapter I. The lords were again to have one twenty-
second part of the whole, also the Lumb's Mill, with all
the buildings, weirs, goits, and appurtenances, and six
acres on which to get stone to repair the buildings, for
rebuilding or repairing the houses, bridges, walls, fences,
and other works. The Commissioners were to make
allotments, and the remainder was to go to those entitled
to right of common. Nothing was to prejudice the right
of tithes, and the mining rights of the king's subjects
were saved. After the allotment all rights of common to
cease. The arbitrator appointed was Mr. John Nuttall.

* Vol. i. t p. 226.

COMMONS, ROADS, CUSTOMS, ANTIQUITIES, Etc.

The Roman roads, of which there were several in this
county, though none in or near this parish, were laid in
a direct line across country, over hills, down into valleys,
and up the other side. This plan was followed by road-
makers subsequent to the Roman period, and even by
those who made the early turnpike roads, and Farey
blames them for "not only unnecessarily ascending hills
where more level lines might have been chosen, but for
descending directly into, and thus crossing valleys at
right angles, instead of the more oblique and easy descents
which might in most instances be had."* A glaring
instance of this practice is seen in the descent of the
Chesterfield road from the top of Matlock Bank to the
bridge. In later times the pursuing of straight lines for
any considerable length of road came to be less the rule,
and the selection of dry and sound ground between town
and town, the choosing of fordable points of rivers and
brooks, and avoiding streams of water as much as possible,
became the guiding principles on which lines for roads
across the woods, wastes, and commons which then almost
universally prevailed were chosen. One reason assigned
for the choice of straight lines is that in the very early
days there were few or no wheeled conveyances, so that
the rises and falls were not so inconvenient for the pack
horses and people on foot as they became for the vehicles
of later times. Another reason given for not always
running the roads over the level ground of valleys is that
in case they had been so confined, the higher grounds
would have remained to a large extent unknown, un-
inhabited, and uncultivated. Certainly roads over the

* Vol. iii., p. 224.

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

hills must have been always a necessity to those who
lived on them.

Turnpikes were first authorised under Edward III., in
1346. In the thirteenth year of George III. (1772), many
were done away with; in the third of George IV. (1822)
more were abolished ; and in 1889 the system of turnpikes
and tolls on roads in Great Britain was finally put an end
to. The principal road through this parish was the
Nottingham and Newhaven turnpike, one section of which
came into the county by Alfreton, passed through Wes-
sington to Matlock, where it crossed the bridge to
Snitterton, and proceeded by Wensley and Winster to
Pike Hall. Another section left the route from What-
standwell to Ashbourne at the cross posts on Wirksworth
Moor and went through Cromford (not at first, but later)
through Matlock Bath, through Bakewell, to join the
Chapel-en-le-Frith road near Longstone. The length of
road from Cromford Bridge to and through Lea and
Holloway was part of the Cromford Bridge and Langley
Mill turnpike. Farey* recommended the making of a
road on the west side of the Derwent from Belper to
Cromford, remarking that there was already a private
carriage way between those places, belonging to Messrs.
Strutt, Charles Hurt, and Richard Arkwright, and in 1818
his recommendation was carried out. The road from
Chesterfield to Matlock and Ashbourne passed through
Walton and Kelstedge, leaving Ashover about a mile
to the left, over the most northernly part of the East
Moor to Matlock Bank and Bridge, and, leaving Matlock

* Derbyshire, iil, p. 226.

COMMONS, ROADS, CUSTOMS, ANTIQUITIES, Etc.

Town on the left, on to Matlock Bath. Thence it con-
tinued through Cromford and Middleton, leaving Wirks-
worth on the left, to Hopton, Carsington, and Kniveton,
and, leaving Hognaston on the left, to Ashbourne, the
distance from Chesterfield being about 21 miles.

Although the turnpike system led to the general making
and maintaining of roads, there were many anomalies
connected with it One of these, under which Matlock
specially suffered, was that owing to the separate and
sometimes opposing interests of different sets of trustees,
it happened that particular towns and places were
oppressed or greatly inconvenienced by the number and
situations of the toll-bars erected around or near them.
Matlock furnished an instance of this kind. In five
directions toll-bars were placed very near to the centre of
the parish, Willersley lane alone remaining open for exit
or entrance with animals or vehicles without payment of
toll The five bars were the Warm Wells Gate at Matlock
Bath, in a line with the south weir; Holt Lane Gate,
Matlock Dale, just beyond the Artists' Corner, on the
north ; Matlock Bank, Darley Dale, and Tansley.

Another anomaly connected with the turnpikes and the
Acts by which they were authorised was this. When such
Acts were first applied for, the prevailing idea was that
it was merely necessary to widen, straighten, and sub-
stantially repair the roads, and continue the tolls thereon
so long as the principal sum borrowed for the purpose,
with interest, could be paid off; that then the toll-gates
might be pulled down again, and such roads would thence-
forward need only the ordinary attention of the parish
surveyors. There were strong popular prejudices against

tor so!irit«>rs, so that when the twentv-
to ex])ire it was the rule to petition P
term on the ground that debts yet rei
which the parties must entirely lose i
renewed. It was also alleged that (
be repaired or kept up without a
granted, to be followed in due coui
third, and subsequent applications. '
a vast sum of money, drawn from the
which ought to have been strictly appl
the roads, and the payment of the d
expended periodically in Parliamentar
and travelling expenses to attorney
witnesses, assembled from the most d
kingdom and detained for weeks toget
Again, the tolls were let by auction,
they had produced in the precedin{
advertised. This led to an arrangemt
intending bidders to hold off from com]
man designated for the purpose would i
at as low a price as nn*«iHi» *«^ *»«•'

COMMONS, ROADS, CUSTOMS, ANTIQUITIES, Etc

boundaries maintained by the county, which first assumed
the responsibility for the former at the Epiphany Sessions,
1681-2. Glover has it that the Hunt Bridge was also on
the hands of the county, but that is not so, for this,
together with the Stoney Way, Mill Culvert, and North
Bridges, formerly repaired by the Turnpike Trustees, are
now kept up by the parish. There can be no question
but that Matlock Bridge, built in days when the traffic
over it was insignificant compared with what it is to-day,
has long been entirely inadequate to current requirements
and the cause of much inconvenience to the public,
whether travelling on foot or on wheels. Efforts have
been made to effect improvements, but for years they were
futile, and it is astonishing that so enterprising and, from
the point of view of increased rateable value alone, well-
to-do, a community should, for the sake of a few hundred
pounds, have sat quietly under such an infliction, crippling,
as it must have done, their quicker development, rather
than join heartily with the County Council years ago in
modernising and extending the bridge to suitable dimen-
sions. The business of the historian is, however, to
record rather than to criticise, and the story — somewhat
a melancholy one — of the negotiations about the bridge
will now be told. A petition in favour of widening was
presented to the Court of Quarter Sessions in April, 1874.
Referred to Committee, it came up again in July, when a
motion to vote ^250 for the necessary work was rejected,
and it was decided that the inhabitants ought to widen
the bridge themselves. On the 23rd of March, 1888, the
chairman and clerk of the Matlock Local Board had an
interview with the County Bridges Committee to urge the

7 97

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

desirability of widening the bridge. It was represented
that the bridge was extensively used by vehicles, that on
account of its narrowness it was dangerous for pedestrians
traversing it, and that it was a cause of general complaint.
The deputation were informed that the County Surveyor
estimated that it would cost ,£1,000 to widen the bridge,
and in view of the then pending Local Government Bill
the Bridge Committee did not feel justified in authorising
the expenditure. The subject was again raised in the
following year, and at the meeting of the Local Board on
the 6th of January, 1890, a letter from the County
Surveyor was read stating that the bridge was then 21
feet wide. To enlarge it to 26 feet on the south side
would cost ^400, and to place a path on each side would
cost ^700. If the latter idea were carried out the bridge
would then be 29 feet 6 inches wide. The Board agreed
to offer ;£ioo towards the cost if the county widened the
bridge as proposed. On February 8th, a deputation from
the County Committee attended and inspected the bridge.
They agreed that the structure was inadequate to the
traffic, and asked the Board to reconsider their offer of
;£ioo, adding that if a new bridge were built the parish
would be expected to pay one-half the cost. On March
25th, a letter from the County Council to the Board was
read stating that the Bridges Committee had nothing to
recommend unless the locality would pay half the cost
of any works undertaken. On August 7th, 1894, Mr. Slack,
chairman of the Local Board — now become a Council —
pronounced the bridge dangerous, and stated that the
County Surveyor had been over and suggested that a
deputation should be sent to the County Council. A

COMMONS, ROADS, CUSTOMS, ANTIQUITIES, Etc

deputation was accordingly appointed. On October 3rd,
it was reported to the County Council that the deputation
had been received and had made a request to have the
bridge widened. Plans had been prepared and the local
authority asked how much they would subscribe. On the
9th of January, 1895, the Bridges and Highways Com-
mittee reported to the County Council that they had
further considered the question of widening the bridge.
The County Surveyor estimated that to do the work as
the committee would like to see it done would cost ^3,700,
and it was recommended that if the locality would provide
^1,500 of this amount the work should be proceeded
with. The proposal was to widen the bridge considerably,
and lower the crown, as well as put it in repair throughout.
At a meeting of the local Council on the 4th of February,
the Highways Committee brought up a recommendation
to accept the terms proposed by the county and contribute
^1,500 towards the cost, but a decision was deferred, and
the ratepayers appealed to. The question had now
become a "burning" one. A public meeting was held
towards the end of the same month, when a proposal
being made that it be left to the county to deal with the
bridge, it was explained that the county authorities were
not liable to rebuild but only to keep it in repair. In the
end it was decided to call in an independent surveyor to
examine the bridge and report, but the fee of the gentle-
man proposed being regarded as too high, the surveyor
to the local Council, Mr. Falding, was appointed for the
purpose. On his report the Council, in the following
April, made a counter proposal to the county. This was
to improve the bridge and add additional footpaths at

...h.kj i-unain suggestions. The
they failed to see any reason to
resolutions, and having informed
this they understood that the wh<
the bridge was abandoned. Neve
the Bridges and Highways Com
County Council that they had ore
the bridge to be repaired and re-1
county of ^15. On the 13th Jam
effort to carry through the enter]
modernising the bridge was made,
Drabble, the representative of M.
Council, induced that body to con
on the structure, provided the Dist
the county funds beforehand j£$c
towards that amount. On Marc
Council decided to accept the ten
sum of ^500 for the purpose; but
In October, 1898, the offer made
was renewed by the county ; on Nov
to the District Council wrote tn *fc<

COMMONS, ROADS, CUSTOMS, ANTIQUITIES, Etc.

was found difficult to realise the design owing to the
shallow depth at which the gas and water mains were
necessarily laid over the crown of the bridge. The County
Surveyor, Mr. J. Somes Storey, coming over, met and
conferred with Mr. Job Smith, chairman of the Urban
Council, on the spot The result was that at the next
meeting of this Council the chairman explained to the
members that the offer of the County Council to widen
the bridge to 30 feet and put it in substantial repair if
the locality would contribute ^500 was still open. He
urged that this was a comparatively small amount for
the Council to contribute for such an important permanent
improvement, and that they should accept the offer and
pay the money out of the rates, by instalments if necessary.
The Council unanimously resolved to sanction the work
and the payment At the next following meeting, on the
9th of June, the subject was again brought forward, when
the chairman suggested a special rate of sixpence in the
pound to defray the cost of a public celebration of the
Coronation of King Edward VII., fixed for the 26th of
June, and to provide the money for widening the bridge.
This was agreed to, and the chairman, mentioning that
it was particularly expressed in the terms that the County
Council would spend ^3,700 on the understanding that
the work would not be carried out until their treasurer
had received the sum of ^500 from Matlock, said that
amount had been paid over. Thus a consummation
ardently desired by many for a quarter of a century was
at last achieved. The work is now in progress.

Cromford Bridge, which has been maintained by the
county since Easter, 1700, is partly in Matlock parish,

101

design from tln, k old. Thus at
northern side the arches are t
southern they are pointed. The
Cromford Bridge, an anecdote c
told by Moore, who states that t
sketch different sides without obs*
a dispute arose between them res
arches, the one insisting upon tl
other as positively affirming that th
upon each produced his sketch tc
when each more pertinaciously ins
The explanation is that the archit
is different. On the eastern side 1
on the western they are circular,
parapet of this bridge, visible on ap
to the passer-by, is this inscriptioi
B. H. Mare, June, 1697." The s
horse, instead of taking the shar
cross the bridge leaped the para
with it to the ground on the other
.10 feet unH ffc-f i*~ * u -

COMMONS, ROADS, CUSTOMS, ANTIQUITIES, Etc.

In 1524, Thomas Blackwall, of Wirksworth, left " a fodder
of lead to the chapel at Cromford towards the maintenance
of Divine service." Dr. Cox quotes Mr. J. Reynolds as
having recorded a visit to the chapel as late as 1753,
when he found a window there which contained the arms
of Lord Talbot. According to Wolley, "the chapel of
Cromford stood adjacent to the south-east end of Crom-
ford bridge, just below it in the meadows. It had for
a considerable length of time been diverted and converted
into two small dwelling-houses, which were taken down
under the direction of Richard Arkwright, Esq., their
owner, in the year 1796." If this be an accurate record,
another cottage must have been built on the site, as one
still stands there; nor was the ancient chapel entirely
demolished, for under the cottage is a Gothic arched door-
way still standing in a portion of the south wall of the
chapel. The mouldings of the doorway, barely six feet
high, show it, says Dr. Cox, to be fifteenth century work.
Tradition has it that this foundation was an oratory for
those about to cross the ford of Cromford, and that fees
were paid to the priest in charge by travellers. The first
part of this tradition, at least, is most likely true, as the
chapel stood on the level of the river bank, while on the
opposite or north side there is still an inclined approach
down to the water's edge.

Prior to the opening of the railway the only means of
conveyance for goods and minerals besides the roads was
by water along the canal. The Cromford Canal did not
enter the parish, but terminated near to its boundary on
the south, the terminus and wharf being situate between
the Arkwright Mills and Cromford Church, but on the

103

Hull Ht'u\£i\ Fritchlt-y. Heage,
Heanor, and joins the Erewash c
It runs in general in a south-easter
miles, of which the first eleven a
three have a fall of eighty feet,
tunnels, there is one near Ripley
over this there is a reservoir of fift
full for the replenishment of the
There is also a pumping engine ne
" railway end " to the Lea side of t
which water is got from the Den
wharves connecting with the High Pe
ways. The principal engineer to th
Jessop. In 1850, soon after the o\
railway from Ambergate, the canal w
to the Manchester, Buxton, Matlock,
whose undertaking it subsequently
land Railway Company, who have
controlled it. Previously to that ti
was a busy centre for the import an
Matlock 1UA — J ~ "

COMMONS, ROADS, CUSTOMS, ANTIQUITIES, Etc

Hall, Liverpool, got at the Stancliff Quarries, Darley
Dale, was shipped thence to its destination. Moreover,
while the railway stopped at Ambergate parties of excur-
sionists on pleasure bent were brought to that place by
train, transferred to boats on the canal, and conveyed to
Cromford, whence they walked to Matlock Bath, visited
the caverns and heights, and afterwards returned the same
way.

The Midland Railway enters the parish from the north-
west above Cawdor Bridge, and passes out over the Railway
Bridge at Cromford. As the station for the latter place
is within the Matlock boundary, there are three stations
in the parish, namely, Matlock Bridge, Matlock Bath, and
Cromford. This line was projected as an independent
undertaking in 1846, when a company was formed, with
Mr. Cavendish, M.P., as chairman. It was entitled the
Manchester, Buxton, Matlock, and Midlands Junction Rail-
way, the intention from the first being to connect the
Midland Railway, by its means, with Manchester, but
many years elapsed before that object was effected.
Owing to disputes and changes of interest among the great
railway companies, the length from Ambergate to Rowsley
only was made. This was accomplished solely by the
constant and disinterested support of the seventh Duke of
Devonshire, who was convinced that it would be of lasting
benefit to the district. The line was opened on the 4th
of June, 1849, the occasion being celebrated by a luncheon
at the Old Bath Hotel, Matlock Bath, which was not taken
down till 1867. The proceedings were presided over by
Henry Tootal, Esq., vice-chairman of the company, the
Duke of Devonshire being represented by Mr. (afterwards

i°5

. ,... ,»•< i/uii \ , an

route between London, Derby, and ^
of threat importance to them and t
general, as also to Matlock in pa
been projects advanced for a corape
have so far come to nothing.

As to industries and manufactui
parish, Glover* records, besides Ai
at Masson, the existence of flax-spinn
and Matlock ; that a few lace machii
parish; that one of the most emim
and grounds was that of Mr. John (
that there were cotton and paper mi
and that hat-making was an extensi
lock, also at Lea, just outside the
Walker had an establishment, and
Government contracts for soldiers 1 a
well as made fine hats for civilian
has been long an industry on the
parish and at Matlock Green, and i
are two com mills still at work. Tt

COMMONS, ROADS, CUSTOMS, ANTIQUITIES, Etc.

the Peak district, vid the old High Peak Railway, now
part of the London and North-Westera system, and is
carted from the railway end on the Derby road to the
mill, to return as flour or meal, going back to its
owner by the same route. The lower mill is used for
producing flour, meal, and the usual by-products, for public
consumption, and a very extensive trade is done here.
There is record of a mill being here in 38 Henry III.

("54).

The staple trade of Matlock at present is that in grit-
stone. There are quarries in the parish at Lumsdale and
Cuckoostone, and grindstones are made at both. Stone
in large blocks is also brought down the Bank from
quarries at Ashover, and from the Poor Lots quarry at
Tansley, and wrought in the railway yard, where the blocks
are first sawn into slabs. Large numbers of elongated
cylindrical millstones are made here, and consigned to the
Scandinavian countries and Switzerland, for the purpose
of being used to make wood pulp for use in the manufac-
ture of paper. Mr. Walter Drabble and Mr. Arthur Beck
are proprietors of sawing sheds in Matlock Bridge Station
Yard. The Poor Lots Quarries are in the hands of
Mr. George Boden, of Matlock.

The extensive limestone quarries at Cawdor are worked
by Messrs. Constable and Co., whose head office is in
London, and Mr. James Shaw. The former firm do an
extensive business in raw stone, which is sent away to be
used as a flux in the smelting of iron in blast furnaces.
They are also embarked in the manufacture from broken
limestone of asphalt macadam, most of which is consigned
to London, but this material is also sent to other places
when ordered. Mr. Josiah Smart has lately come in and

107

adjoining quarries furnish the greater part of 1
limestone for the repair of the roads. Lime-
also carried on.

The manufacture of hats, lace, and paper
discontinued. Paint colours are made in Mat

There are extensive nurseries, princi
rhododendrons, the peat soil exactly suiting
Cockoostone, belonging to Henry Farnsv
Charles Smith respectively. Just outside
boundary, in Darley, Mr. Arrow Smith has 2,o<
nurseries, in which a great variety of trees, s
plants is maintained.

There is very good grazing on the hills, upo
lime and gritstone formations, the land on B
farmed with particular care, while that on the
summit of Masson is made the most of.
situations, an anxiety of the farmer is to pre
for his animals in such a way that it will no
in dry seasons. The provision is made tl
medium of the familiar mere. A suitable situa
been selected, men with wheelbarrows are set
and form the mere bv removing the soil and r

COMMONS, ROADS, CUSTOMS, ANTIQUITIES, Etc.

to twenty yards across, according to circumstances, is
formed with an edge level all round, except that the new
raised bank is made somewhat higher where most raised,
to allow for the settling of the earth, and the sides slope
regularly into the middle, where the depth is three feet
to three feet six inches. When the dish-like bottom is
brought to a regular shape, and all the large stones on it
are broken and removed, a layer of lime ashes, that is,
refuse, slaked lime, and coal cinders from a lime kiln, is
spread evenly over it and well trodden down by men or
beaten with wooden rammers. On this a stratum of well-
tempered water-clay (formerly obtained from decomposed
bassets of the toadstone strata), about four inches thick,
is spread and well rammed or beaten down ; then a second
bed of clay, about the same thickness, is spread over all
the bottom and well rammed down upon the first, and
while this last coat of clay continues in a yielding state,
the whole of the bottom and edges of the mere are paved
with rubble stones. On this a covering of very small
rubble stones or gravel, several inches thick, is spread,
and the mere is then ready to receive the water of the
first heavy shower that falls. On some hill-farms, ponds
still remain which were made in such remote days that
their artificial character has been lost, and they are
deemed to be the result of natural depressions or catch-
ment basins.

The wakes or feast is a season of festivity and amuse-
ment here as in most other villages throughout the
county. It is governed by the recurrence of the day
set apart in honour of the saint to whom the church is
dedicated, and the patron saint being here St. Giles, the
wakes should fall on the first Sunday in September, but
the custom is to keep the festival on the first Sunday

109

music and danr'niL*,. with, of cnurst\ < 1 r i i
houses, hut this practice is now modi
hotels about Matlock Bridge provide
tomers, and also give access to their
well as about the market-hall, a kind ol
with stalls, some bearing toys or cheap
cakes, biscuits, sweets, etc. Merry-go-r
and shooting galleries also offer theii
usual rule among the householders is
beef and plum pudding, but at Starkl
varied by substituting elderberry for p
Matlock Bath, a special sweet cake, w
five inches in diameter, is also made
the name of Wakes Cake; but the p
of the parish usually seek their outdo
this period at Matlock Bridge, or if \
(governed by the nativity of St. Mary
at the same time, as sometimes happi
formerly part of Wirksworth parish. In
and badger baiting were common at th
the time that Glover wrote, twenty yeai

COMMONS, ROADS, CUSTOMS, ANTIQUITIES, Etc.

precise day — by what were called "plough bullocks,"
when a number of men harnessed themselves to a plough
and dragged it round the parish. They were accompanied
by several buffoons or harlequins, each armed with a
bladder loosely attached to the end of a stick, with which
they buffeted the onlookers. The " bullocks " decorated
themselves with ribbons and paper rosettes. An impor-
tant part of the display was the making of a collection,
and the story went that where any refused to contribute
they would have their ground or doorsteps ploughed up;
but of this we know of no authenticated case having
occurred. A newspaper paragraph records that in 1849,
about fifty men, followed by an excellent plough, and
preceded by the Matlock Brass Band, started from the
Horse and Jockey Inn, Matlock Bank, for Matlock Bath,
Cromford, and Starkholmes, and returned to the Bank,
where a supper awaited them. After supper, dancing was
begun and continued all night. It was stated that there
had not been so many " bullocks " to so few ploughs for
twenty years, and that four harlequins who accompanied
the cavalcade astonished the bullocks as well as the
bystanders. The subscriptions amounted to £4 10s.

Till the middle of the last century, and even later, it
was customary at Matlock Bath to celebrate the fifth of
November, the anniversary of the Gunpowder Plot, with
a great central bonfire, accompanied by the firing of iron
and other pistols, small cannons, and various minor fire-
works. For weeks before the day, the young men and
boys sallied out into the lanes wherever any loose branches
or logs were lying, and without asking leave bore them to
the appointed place, where the fire was to be made. The
woods were invaded, and if a sufficiency of loose fuel was
not obtainable from the ground, devices were employed to

.Another custom connected with
which >till continues, is the maki
are called " thor " or " thaw ? ' cak
of the origin or meaning of which
cakes are composed mainly of oa
molasses or treacle, mixed with
flavouring of salt. They are bake
then keep some days, on every one
lessened by the demands of the yoi
consumed. Toffy is also made an<
of the same event. This custom, a
fires, is observed, though not by e
of the parish.

At Christmas, the churches and
with holly, ivy, and other evergreens
England. The old custom was to :
Christmas Eve. At Christmas, toe
themselves into parties, and more <
dressed for the occasion, go round
" guisering," as it is called. These {
Matlock, Matlock Bath, and Starkho
is a specimen of the kind of rude nl.

COMMONS, ROADS, CUSTOMS, ANTIQUITIES, Etc

Whether I stand or whether I fall,
111 do my duty to please you all.
Room, room, gallants, room !
Stir up the fire, and give us light,
And let us act our noble fight
If you can't believe these words I say,
Let St George step in and clear the way.
(Enter St. George.)
1 am St George, that noble man, that noble champion

bold.
With sword and spear I slew the fiery dragon, and won

ten thousand pounds in gold.
More than that, I followed to the castle gates a lady in

distress;
There came behind a valiant soldier, as hard as he

could press,
And before anything was said, he nearly cut off my head.
Bold Slasher —
I am that valiant soldier —
Bold Slasher is my name,
And with my sword and spear
111 make up to thee again.
St. George —
Stand off! stand off! thou dirty dog, and let no more be

said,
For if thou speak'st again, I'll surely break thy head.

Bold Slasher —
How canst thou break my head? My head is made of

iron, my body's made of steel,
My hands and legs of knuckle-bone; no man can make
me feel.

St. George —
Can't I?
8 113

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

much skill as a sharpshooter; and if a ruffian dared to
attack her, which had been the case, would pretty sharply
teach him her pugilistic skill. Nay, if a lady, unprotected
by her beau, should have occasion to pass through the
Dale in the evening's shade, no danger need be appre-
hended if Miss Phoebe were her companion. She also
possesses a great knowledge of music. The 'Yellow-
haired Laddie ' and other favourite airs were amongst her
performances. The Methodists, she swore, had borrowed
her sacred music, but, though on a Sunday, was not so
firm a convert to their persuasion as to deny herself a
lively tune. Religion, or Methodism, at least, did not
appear to have entered very far into Miss Phoebe's mind,
whatever might be the cardinal virtues of her heart"
Llewellynn Jewitt, who had heard his father speak of her
from personal knowledge, stated in The Reliquary in
January, 1862, that though rough, rude, uncouth, eccentric,
and masculine, she knew what was right, and refrained
from wrongdoing. Though country bred and but imper-
fectly educated, she yet could perform on the flute and
violoncello. She lived, originally, with her mother, but
afterwards alone, in a cottage which formerly occupied
the site of " Dale Cottage " in Matlock Dale. She died
on the 1 6th of May, 1854, and is buried in the parish
churchyard, where a tombstone perpetuates her memory.
At one time, Phoebe possessed a little property and held
a small farm, but towards the end of her life became
poor, when she was assisted with a small pension, paid
through Lady Paxton, by the seventh Duke of Devonshire.
It is well known that in early sub-Norman times many
people added to their Christian name that of the parish
in which they were born, as Robert de Darley, William
de Matlock, and so on. This was obviously done for the

116

COMMONS, ROADS, CUSTOMS, ANTIQUITIES, Etc.

purpose of identification. In course of time, the "of,"
or u de," as it was usually put, and which was a Norman
importation, was dropped, and the names became Robert
Darley, William Matlock, etc. Adam* seems to have been
a good deal surprised by hearing of anyone bearing the
name of Matlock, and states that a man named Timothy
Matlock visited the parish in 1810, having come over
from New York, to which city his ancestors had emigrated.
He had heard of the hot springs which gushed out plenti-
fully at the foot of the hill. On searching the registers,
two entries of the name of Matlock were found, namely,
Richard, son of Thomas Matlock, baptised April 28th,

1660, and Grace, daughter of Thomas, baptised May 1st,

166 1. In an early volume of The Reliquary there are
recorded a series of Matlock deeds, in which occur the
names of Henry de Matlock and Maud, relict of John de
Matlock. Simpsont records a monumental inscription in
All Saints 1 Church, Derby, to Robert, only child of Robert
and Sarah Matlock, dated 1730.

Farey mentions having been told that the young
children of Matlock were " yet " — that is, in his advanced
and enlightened day, now nearly one hundred years ago —
often made to stare and tremble at the relations by their
more childish nurses and grandmothers of the devouring
feats of a former dragon of this place. Satyrs or imaginary
wild men were confidently said formerly to inhabit
Hobsthirst Rocks, on the north side of Fin Cop Hill, and
he was himself gravely told in Tansley that fairy elves
were still frequently heard to squeak in the damp cavities
of the rocks over which the waterfall in Lumsdale is
projected. We well remember the awe with which we

* Gem of the Peak % 4th Ed., p. 50, note,
t History of Derby \ p. 360.

117

ha If -full of calrined bones, and
of the kind known amongst an
cup," which was placed upon th(
was covered by a thin limestoi
protected from the pressure of tl
formed of two stones, each about
broad, placed on edge, one on
laid transversely above. An em]
close by the other.* The ince
Mr. Bateman's collection at Lon
the museum at Sheffield, which c
interesting antiquities dug up b)
county.

In April, 1893, a prehistoric bui
on land connected with Megdale
the exact spot being at the Cawdo
gas works. The proprietors, Mei
having decided to extend their wt
of Megdale Farm, this necessitate
removal of the superficial soil. Oi
peaty earth about eighteen inche
came uoon o i©*-«~ *•«■ —

COMMONS, ROADS, CUSTOMS, ANTIQUITIES, Etc

some of the long bones. The position of these bones was
at a depth of two to three feet below the surface, resting
on soil. The soil for some distance below the bones and
the limestone on each side had a distinct red tinge, quite
different from any other soil in any other part of the
quarry or the neighbourhood. All the bones which were
recovered were confided to the care of the owner of the
land, Mr. R. Parker, of Buxton, who, in 1900, lent them
to Mr. John Ward, F.S.A., for the purpose of being
described and figured.*

Wolley records the former existence of a headless cross
in the parish, but has not indicated its exact situation, t

On a footpath leading from the Chesterfield road to
Lumsdale is a large square stone, part of the primeval
gritstone rock, surrounded by fir woods. This is locally
named the Broad Stone, but among strangers coming to
the place, by whom it is largely visited, it is known as
"The Wishing Stone." This stone is very rugged, but
can be scaled, and is covered with the names, cut into
its substance, of those who have been there. The rock,
although the footpath runs by the side of it, is really in
the grounds of Mr. Garton, who very kindly makes no
objection to the visits of the "wishers." The sentiment
as to registering an inward wish for the gratification of
some desire at a particular place or time is not peculiar
to Matlock. About Derby it was formerly, and may be
still, the practice on seeing young lambs for the first time
in the spring to turn over money in the pocket and silently
register a wish. At a watering-place, an institution like
the wishing-stone gives cause for and interest to a pleasant
walk, the exercise ensuing upon which is no doubt much

* Journal of the Derbyshire Archaological Society, 1901, p. 40.
iAdd. MSS. (Wollefs) 6667, £ 329.

119

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

more beneficial than any secret wish. An instance of
something of the like kind that occurs to us is at East-
bourne, on the Sussex coast Here one of the prosaic
old martello towers, built for defence, is vested with a
slight halo of romance by being named "The Wish
Tower."

At the middle of the last century the Matlock stocks
still stood outside the south wall of the churchyard; yet
Farey had observed fifty years before that " sitting in the
parish or township stocks, a summary and wholesome
mode of punishment for the less heinous offences against
good morals, seemed here and almost everywhere else,
growing into entire disuse, although, ridiculously enough,
every country place continued to uphold its stocks." On
a great many occasions, he added, "when seeing them
repairing or new ones erecting, he had inquired whether
any one in their place remembered a single instance of
the stocks being used, but had almost invariably, except
by very old persons, been answered in the negative."

1 20

CHAPTER V.

MATLOCK BATH.

Early History— Primitive State of the Valley— Thermal
Waters — First Bath — Earlier Use— Tufa Super-
stratum—Horns and Skeleton of Deer Discovered —
Coins Found— Roads — Routes to and fro— 1 ' Horseway *
to Matlock— Coaches and Chariot— Railway— The Old
Season and its Characteristics — Byron and Miss
Chaworth — Lord Chancellor Thurlow— The Modern
Season— Claims as a Winter Resort— District Councils'
Area— Population — Rateable Value— Scenery— Lovers'
Walks — High Tor— Romantic Rocks— Dungeon Tors —
Darwin and Allen's Descriptive Lines— John Allen's
Career and Poems.

THE charming and romantic portion of the old
parish known as Matlock Bath — now, as already
mentioned, a parish in itself — is situate at a
distance of a mile and a half to the south of the old
church and bridge, and lies entirely on the west bank of
the river, in the Derwent valley, though the main part
of its beautiful and extensive public pleasure grounds are
under and over the rocks on the east bank. As is obvious,
its distinctive name is due to the discovery of the thermal
waters. This led to the formation of a bath, followed
later by three others, one on the same and two on different
sites, and to use these and drink the waters was the real
or ostensible object for which originally persons visited

121

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

the locality. Prior to these events, the valley hereabouts
must have been to an extreme degree secluded and peace-
ful, as there were few, if any, inhabitants, and the only
existing buildings were some small cots and miners'
"coes"* or shelters. The first bath was made in 1696,
but according to Wolley, his family at Riber had known
of the warm springs and come down to bathe at them,
having cut out a place for the purpose in the superficial
tufa deposits, long before. Nevertheless, as late as 1768,
the valley hereabouts was so retired that in the lease of
the land on which the paper mill near the south weir was
afterwards built, granted by the Lords of the Manor in
that year, the site was described as "at or near the
decoy," from which we infer that the wild duck had
resorted there in numbers — a sure sign of quietude and
freedom from any but the most occasional and limited
invasion by human beings.

When the vale of Matlock Bath was still undisturbed
by the hand of man, it bore on the top of its natural
geological strata on the west side of the river an immense
bed of tufa, locally called marl, varying from one foot to
twenty feet deep, much of which remains. This bed
extended from a little south of the New Bath Hotel —
which is built on a portion of it — to and beyond the front
of the Royal Hotel, near the site of the first bath. At
intervals along this space of about a third of a mile, the
warm springs gushed out and spread over the surface,
and being heavily charged with lime and salts in solution,
deposited much of these on the surface on their way to
the river. These deposits hardened into beautiful more
or less openwork forms, and in the lapse of long periods

* Glover spells this word " cowe " or " cove," and its probable
derivation is from alcove, the first syllable having been dropped and
the remaining one corrupted.

122

MATLOCK BATH.

of time grew by the additions constantly being made by
the flow of the streams to the height indicated. The
resultant tufa was hard as stone and frequently used for
building as well as ornamental purposes, the latter mainly
taking the shape of garden rockeries. For this use,
thousands of tons have been quarried, sold, and exported
to many and various distant places.

The tufa varies in character "from a tolerably dense
rock at the bottom to a light, friable, and porous deposit
in the upper parts, encrusting the remains of innumerable
mosses and other plants, and enclosing land shells and
the bones of small animals, and also occasionally the works
of man himself. I have obtained from the tufa at Matlock
shells of common snails and also portions of the skeletons
of rabbits, together with an iron spear-head of Roman
or Saxon origin."*

On cutting the tufa bank to make the road known as
Temple Walk, leading from the Royal Hotel to the
Temple, the head and immense antlers of a moose deer
were found embedded in the "marl." These were sent
to the British Museum. In building the stables at the
New Bath, a skeleton of the same animal was found, t
Again, in September, 1848, when the coffer dam was
being formed, preparatory to the building of the bridge
leading to the railway station, portions of horns were found
at a depth of eight feet below the bed of the river, said
to have been those of the red deer.

On the 4th March, 1795, a labourer employed in getting
limestone in a small patch of ground at Scarthin Nick, in
the parish of Matlock (about twenty yards westward of
where the road is cut through the rock) discovered a

•Mello's Geology of Derbyshire, p. 9.

t Gem of the Peak, 4th edition, p. 56 (note).

123

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

human skeleton, near the head of which lay upwards of
sixty small Roman copper coins, most of them in high
preservation. The person who found them gave eight of
these coins to Mr. John Reynolds, an antiquary of Matlock,
whose notes are preserved with the Wolley MSS., and
who thus describes them : —

" I. — A head laureat with this circumscription : —

IMP. LIONIVS P.F. AVG.

Reverse, the genius of the Roman people standing with its
attributes.

GENIOPOP. ROM. Ex. P.L.N.

" II. — A small head laureat with the upper part of a
shield appearing, circumscribed

CRISPVS NOBIL. C

Reverse, ' Cippus in quo votis . . supra cippum
globus cum tribus stellis. Ex. P.LO (N.)

"The other six are of the two Constantines, with
different reverses, and the whole collection were all of
the lower Empire, consisting chiefly of the coins of
Licinius and the Constantines, and very common; of
course but of small value."

Other coins of this " find " passed into the hands of
Mr. Charles Hurt, of Wirksworth,* and on his death were,
with others, sold by Messrs. Sotheby, in London.

For long after the discovery and use of the waters the
roads to the place were very poor. Messrs. Smith and
Pennell, when they succeeded to the lease of the Old Bath
source, after an interval of some thirty years, formed a
carriage road along the river side from Cromford, and
opened a better horseway to Matlock Bridge. The only
available road for wheels from the south was by way of
Wirksworth by the Steeple Houses, over the brow crossed

* Glover, ii. p. 328.

124

MATLOCK BATH.

by the High Peak Railway, down Cromford Hill and
through the village, over the old county bridge, and by
Willersley Lane and Starkholmes to Matlock Town and
Bridge. The opening between the tors at Cromford did
not then exist, but was made later by Sir R. Arkwright
Pilkington states that it was originally intended to leave
an arch over the road between these rocks, but the idea
was not carried out Messrs. Smith and Pennell's road,
therefore, would start at the foot of the south approach
to Cromford Bridge and pass over what is now
Mr. Arkwright's private road between the river and the
rocks to his lodge gate on the Matlock road, and then
follow the course of the river to near the south weir,
where it went up by the New Bath Hotel, and so on to
the Old Bath. The celebrated author, Daniel De Foe,
who published an account of a visit to Matlock Bath in
1742, approached the place from Wirksworth. He placed
on record the opinion that the bath would be much
more frequented than it was if a sad stony road did not
hinder. u For some miles before you come to Matlock,"
he added, "you pass over barren moors in perpetual
danger of slipping into old lead mines, or ride for miles
together on the edge of a steep hill, on solid slippery rock,
or loose stones, with a valley underneath the bottom of
which you can hardly discover with the eye."

Mr. Bray, who also made and described a tour into
Derbyshire about 1780, likewise complained of the state
of the roads, on some of which in the valleys, in wet
weather, it is said, carriages would sink to their axles,
while the steep and rugged acclivities over which they
were obliged to pass, often presented formidable obstacles
to the traveller's'progress. Farey mentions a now inex-
plicable controversy that had raged among road surveyors

*./iii iMiiiini^iiam, tnrouj.

Derby, and Helper, at nine in the
Sheffield, through Baslow and Bake
five in the evening; the "Quicksilvei
the " Star," from Sheffield at ten a.m
ham, by Lichfield and Burton, at fo

Down to the year 1849, when the A
length of the Manchester, Buxton, Mi
Junction Railway was opened, the nes
of Ambergate, on what was then calle<
Railway, authorised by an Act passed
from Derby (having connection with 1
ham and Rugby) to Chesterfield, She
and Hull. There were, in August, 1*
way daily, all the up and four of the c
at Ambergate. An omnibus left Matlc
gate four times a day to convey pass
the trains, the fare being one and sixrx
luggage.

At the beginning of the last cei
Davies,* the Matlock Bath season coi
latter end of April, and continued till

MATLOCK BATH.

and facility of communication with other parts of the
country undisturbed by the bustle of a public road. It
is tranquil without dulness, elegant without pomp, and
splendid without extravagance. In it the man of fashion
may always find amusement, the man of rank may meet
with society by which he will not be disgraced, and the
philosopher a source of infinite gratification; while they
who travel in search of health will here find a silver clue
that leads to her abode."* At that time there was accom-
modation in the place for about four hundred people in
the three hotels and the lodging-houses, the " Temple, 1 '
subsequently and now an hotel, being originally one of the
latter. " The accommodations are very good," wrote the
Rev. Richard Warner,t " and the terms as follows : A bed
chamber, per week, 5s. ; a private parlour, jQi is. ; break-
fast, is. 3d. per head; public dinner, 2s. per head;
supper, is. For the large common sitting and dining-
room no extra charge is made. The bathing is 6d. each
time."

In later years, the common table, or table (ThSte, was
abandoned, as Adam J remarks that "Now, although the
visitors to Matlock are far more numerous, that practice
is generally given up, the company occupying private
rooms." At the Old Bath Hotel, long since pulled down,
it is said that when the common table was in vogue, as
many as a hundred guests frequently sat down together
to dinner. In the drawing-room, which was handsome
and spacious, having been 51 feet by 22 feet, and 15 feet
high, with a highly-ornamented ceiling and cornice, and
lighted, as one chronicler has it, with glass chandeliers,
assemblies with music and dancing were held every other

* Lipscomb.

*M Tour through the Northern Counties (1802), p. 145.
X Gem of the Peak, 4th edition, p. 68.
9 129

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

night, the local gentiy, so Adam says, joining the visitors
in making the proceedings brilliant and exhilarating.

It was at the Old Bath, in his early youth, that Lord
Byron, the poet, then a frequent visitor, met with a severe
check, which may have had an unhappy influence on his
romantic career. His unrequited attachment to Miss
Chaworth is well known, and the following incident is
related in Moore's Life:* — In the dances of the evening at
Matlock, Miss Chaworth, of course, joined, while her lover
sat looking on solitary and mortified, t It is not impos-
sible, indeed, that the dislike which he always expressed for
this amusement may have originated in some bitter pang
felt in his youth on seeing " the lady of his love " led out by
others to the gay dance from which he was himself
excluded. On the present occasion, the young heiress of
Annesley having had for her partner (as often happened
at Matlock) some person with whom she was wholly
unacquainted, on her resuming her seat, Byron said to
her, pettishly : " I hope you like your friend ? " The words
were scarcely out of his lips when he was accosted by
an ungainly Scotch lady, who rather boisterously claimed
him as " cousin," and was putting his pride to the torture
with her vulgarity, when he heard the voice of his fair
companion retorting archly in his ear : " I hope you like
your friend?"

The following story is told of Lord Chancellor Thurlow
on the occasion of his being at Matlock Bath to take the
waters in August, 1783. Lord Thurlow was sitting alone
in the corner of a room at his hotel one evening, when
he was accosted by a stranger, who proposed to join him
at cards or dice. Finding his first proposal objected to,

* 1st edition, I., p. 81.

t Byron had a malformed foot.

130

MATLOCK BATH.

the stranger made several others, which were all refused;
"but," said the Chancellor at last, "if you will go with
me into another room, I will propose something that
may suit you better." The Chancellor and the would-be
gambler accordingly retired, when, ink and paper having
been procured, the chief judge of the realm proceeded to
make out a mittimus,* which, when his importunate
visitor perceived that it was signed with the name of
Thurlow, dumfounded him. Finding words again, he
began to apologise for his behaviour. The Chancellor,
however, who must somehow have gathered the name of
the fellow, remained inexorable, and had him secured in
the county gaol.

Though there is a large influx of excursionists and
others at Easter, the season at Matlock Bath cannot now
be said to begin before Whitsuntide, while it attains its
height in the month of August, dwindles in September,
and runs out in October. The place is, however, well
adapted for a winter resort, and has long been so esteemed,
as will shortly be seen. But the fact is obvious. Sheltered
by hills and rocks on the north and east, and lying on
the south-western slopes and bottom of a deep valley, it
is self-evident that the climate here must be mild and
eminently temperate. Adam has remarked, "it enjoys a
climate equal to many places in more southern latitudes " ;
and in winter this is experienced to a considerable extent
Rhodest testified to the like effect, stating that " the cold
winds of the north and east spend their violence on the
huge eminences that environ Matlock Bath, and but rarely
sweep through the valley; hence it is that during the
colder parts of the year the air is comparatively mild and

* Order to commit,
t Peak Scenery.

13*

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

admirably adapted for invalids. In this place, even winter
is shorn of its terrors: the very frosts are endued with
an exhilarating temperament."

Winter or summer, or both, the great attraction to
Matlock Bath is now the scenery, the waters being but
little used, owing to the unfortunate absence of a suitable
Pump Room, where all might drink, and the non-provision
of which hitherto has been extremely shortsighted from
the point of view of direct and indirect attractiveness, as
well as profit. But the glory and grandeur of the scenery,
which is now our theme, never wanes. Many of the old
guide-book makers grew rhapsodical and frequently
incoherent over it, while Adam's verbiage often roamed
into the very intoxication of exuberance.

Matlock Bath may now be limited by the bounds of
the District Council's area, which extends from the foot
of Cliff Road, near the footbridge leading to Matlock
Town on the north, along the course of the river to the
parish boundary in front of Willersley Castle on the south ;
then eastward and northward along that boundary, through
Scarthin Nick, up Chapel Hill, to the brow at the top,
then away to Ember, across the Heights of Abraham,
and down by the back of Masson Farm to the starting-
point, enclosing 335 acres of land with, in 1901, 444
houses, a population of 1,819, and a present rateable value
of jQi 1,069. But the scenery of the place is by no means
limited to this area. Get up on one or other of the hills
or rocks — for we must reckon all the rocks on the east
side, from one end to the other, although without the
official boundary, as belonging to Matlock Bath — and the
vision ranges for miles upon miles, especially from the
summit of Masson. The valley of the Derwent between
Matlock and Derby has many beautiful stretches of

132

MATLOCK BATH.

scenery, but none that can compare with the lofty slopes,
the rocky eminences, or the leafy woods which line on
its two sides the winding and enchanting pass, the floor
of which is the main road from Matlock Bridge, through
the Bath, to Cromford.

Starting from Matlock Bridge, and proceeding south-
wards, there is the hoary old Horse Tor, as Adam has it,
now metamorphosed into Pig Tor* across the river to the
left, the massive foot of Masson coming down on the right.
Passing the Boathouse Inn on this side, we come at once
to the great quarry in the second limestone, which
enables the geological inquirer to scrutinise the internal
structure of the stratum.

Across the river, after a depression, through which the
footroad is carried to Matlock town and church, the great
rocks begin to rise, continuing onward until they culminate
in the High Tor, after which they decline again down to
Matlock Bath station, where the slope of Riber comes
down at a right angle to the river.

Passing along, under the shadow of these rocks, so
briefly described, with Masson towering steep and high on
the right, an idea of their beauties, majesty, and propor-
tions is obtained which is very impressive. This impres-
sion is strongest immediately under the High Tor, where
the pass is narrowest and deepest, t and is rendered
supremely enjoyable when woods are green and flowers are
springing by the masses of verdure, foliage, and colour,
which clothe the ground and also the trees that are seen
flourishing at various altitudes and in all manner of likely
and unlikely situations. After passing the footbridge

* Moore has it " Pig-tree Tor " — Stranger's Guide, 1833, p. 36.

t The roadway has at this point an altitude of 300 feet above sea
level, the Tor from base to summit rising 350 feet higher, while the
height of the great bare-fronted rock alone is 150 feet.

133

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

leading to the High Tor Grotto, and on approaching the
railway bridge at Matlock Bath, another extensive quarry
of limestone lies on the right hand, where the stratification
and dip of the beds can again be scrutinised. By turning
and looking back just before reaching the quarry, a
beautiful prospect is obtained of what seems to be an
enclosed and amphitheatrical valley, comprising a micro-
cosmic world to itself, guarded round by rocks and hills
and rustling, verdant hanging woods, the river rushing and
flowing over its rock-strewn bed, flinging its spray and
singing its own sweet music as it swiftly flies along at the
lowest level of the valley.

The best view of the face of the rocks so far is
obtained from a rugged footpath some way up the side
of Masson, gained by pursuing the Cliff Road from the
extreme northern end of the boundary of Matlock Bath.
From this position and altitude the huge dimensions of
the rocky cliffs are realised and their details, faults, and
features traced by the eye, while new beauties, which from
the road below were concealed, reveal themselves and
afford fresh and continued pleasure to the mind.

The "Artists 7 Corner" is opposite the entrance gate
to Tor House, in the Dale, and as it is from this point
that the High Tor, with the broken water of the river
and the trees in the foreground, is usually sketched, the
plot of ground has been secured for public use for ever.
The purchase was made in January, 1890, when Mr. Peters,
then resident at Guilderoy, a German by birth, and
carrying on business in Derby, advanced ^200 for the
purpose. In January, 1899, the Urban Council gave
instructions to their clerk to prepare a lease on the pur-
chase principle for a rental of the land at ^20 per annum.

The visitor arriving at Matlock Bath by train is landed
134

MATLOCK BATH.

near the point where our tour of the dale was suspended,
and sees in front of him, as he leaves the railway station,
the steep, well-wooded slopes of Masson, studded on its
lower and lowest reaches with houses of varied aspect.
He immediately crosses the river by the substantial two-
arched gritstone bridge, which was constructed with the
railway as part of the undertaking, and gains the main
road. Across the river, to the left, the rocks again rise
up, ascending rapidly to a considerable height, and
continuing like a mighty rampart all the way to Willersley.
If it be winter, as the traveller pursues his way south-
ward towards Cromford, he sees expand before him a
panoramic succession of time-worn moss and ivy-grown
rocks, the aspect of which, as presented to the eye,
changes with each succeeding step, and the effect is as
pleasing as it is imposing. In summer, the trees, of which
there are multitudes of various kinds, having put forth
and expanded their luxuriant foliage, agreeably obscure not
only the base, but much else of the rocky crags, and
while detracting somewhat from their majesty and might,
crown, clothe, and soften their rugged outlines, and convert
the view of them into an extended scene of verdant beauty,
which to the true nature-lover is superlatively winning
and beautiful. As the road after passing through the
heart of the town and going on by the Church, rises con-
siderably above the river and valley, which lie between it
and the woods and rocks, the spectator here views the
scene to advantage, and can maintain his enjoyment as
long as he pleases by lingering over the features and
attractions of the route.

After passing the fish-pond, the site of the first or Old
Bath, which now lies between the Pavilion and the Royal
Hotel, is left on the right. Beyond the grounds of the

*35

bounded l>y the steep and well
sunt hern lout of Masson on the
rippling river on the other.

In describing in rapid outline
scenery, names are of secondary
be recorded that there is a so-cal
the middle of the Museum Part
cliff which backs the central ferr
named the Hag Rock; and the i
facing the east front of the New
Cat Tors.

The prospects from the summit
and wide-spreading. From the W
half of Matlock Bath is seen ea
slopes of Masson, with the white
panioned by the never-distant riv
Immediately at the spectator's f
beyond that the Church, so appro
of the Church lies the site of th<
occupied by the Royal Hotel, a
planted slope behind are placed tl

MATLOCK BATH.

into the river itself. An early print is extant which shows
those on land lying about From north to south the
prospect is backed by Masson and the gradually declining
spur of that mountain, which extends to Cromford and
the front of Willersley — a charming coup d'ail.

From the highest level of the Lovers' Walks a view of
another section of the above-described panorama is
obtained. Turning to the east, a green-spreading field,
separated but by a low wall, is seen, and comes as a
contrast and a relief. Now, the sward of this pasture is
fairly even and smooth, as it slopes down to the railway,
but formerly its contour was broken by the hillocks of
various lead-mines, long disused.

From the summit of the High Tor, again, noble pros-
pects are obtained, both north and south. The top of
the Tor can be reached either from Matlock Town, the
distinctive name given to the locality about the old Parish
Church, by Matlock Bath station bridge, or by a new light
suspension bridge at the Artists' Corner, Matlock Dale,
opened in May, 1903. Mr. Arkwright, of Willersley,
is the owner of the land, and he, some twenty-two years
ago, granted a lease thereof to the High Tor Recreation
Grounds Company, Limited, of which he is a director.
The public are admitted on payment of a small charge.
The walks are pleasant and well kept.

Formerly the Dungeon Tors already referred to were
treated as one of the "lions" of the place, and visitors
were regularly led up to and shown through them, but
since they were included in the grounds of the Pavilion
they have attracted less attention. They are, however, a
very remarkable assemblage of rocks. They are backed
by the primeval limestone stratum, the perpendicular face
of which, as left when the great slip took place, is in

137

i ioiii inese a

the mouth of a mine, sever;
separated; and what is more re
an erect posture, though there i
walk left between them and the
Some of these monoliths rise to
other rocks piled on their heads
these detached cliffs and the st
breadth from four to twelve fe
yards in length. It was formerly
with yew as well as moss and iv)
overhung it and threw a deep a
the whole. The site of the rocks
depths of a wood t but the timber
years ago. All around and down 1
spread multitudes of fragments c
shapes, covered with moss and tra
sected by paths and mingled wit
planted by the Pavilion Company
With many of the last century w
it was usual to quote the lines of
popular author of The Loves of the
ww

MATLOCK BATH.

But Matlock Bath has had a poet of its own in the
person of John Allen, who published a book of verse
in 1848, followed by a second improved and illustrated
edition at a later date. He described the valley as one
where —

Mountains lower
Abrupt; and rocks — rent, rugged, frowning — throw
Their morning shadows o'er the stream below.
Stern giants ! from the sloping glade ascending,
They guard the dale — strength, age, and beauty blending.
In winding course the river frets their base,
Adventurous trees their giddy summits grace ;
Up their grey forms — pale Ruin's wreath and Time's
Old crown of wine and worth — the ivy climbs,
And richest foliage, like a living soul,
Clings to their sides and feeds on breasts of stone.

John Allen deserves more than a passing notice. He
has been classed as one of Derbyshire's worthies, and
he was unquestionably a man who did great credit to his
native county. He was the son of parents in very humble
circumstances, and was born at Lea, near Matlock, in
the year 1794. For the remarkable attainments by which
he was afterwards distinguished he was solely indebted to
self-culture. In 181 8 he kept a small day school in the
pig market — which he named in fun the Fors porcorum —
an indication of classical leanings and acquirements at that
time. Here he acquired knowledge as well as imparted
it, and attained a degree of culture and erudition seldom
surpassed, even by those who follow a University career.
He constructed and published an excellent school arith-
metic. Thus early, too, he strayed into poetry, and
published anonymously a volume of verse, entitled Nuga,
in 1822. Mr. T. R. Potter, who knew him intimately and
wrote a short account of his life in The Reliquary in 1870,
states that Allen was also able as a numismatist, and that

139

__. .w«i master ot the H
While there, he resided at a house
where he produced his poem on ft
several years at Bonsall, where h»
by tuition, increased through his
Alsop, of Alsop, he removed to ft.
many years before and after the mi
he was the proprietor and princ.
boarding school for boys, held
Guilderoy, where he then resided,
quished his school, retired, and livet
in a house he erected on land atta
Baths, so called from a small but
the basin of which stood in front o
at the northern end of the bath I
over the outlet of the overflow from t
He died in 1867, and was buried at
his resting-place is marked by a su
His poems are eloquent testimonies 1
and facility of composition. He tool
affairs of the place, but earned tl
neighbours.

CHAPTER VI.

MATLOCK BATH.

Underground Scenery— Cumberland Cavern — Devonshire
Cavern— Witch Scene from " Macbeth "—Temperature
op Caves — Rutland Cavern — Heights of Abraham —
Brunswood — Victoria Stand— Speedwell Cavern— High
Tor Grotto — Later Caves— Petrifying Wells— Royal
and Imperial Visitors — Queen Victoria's Diamond
Jubilee — Repair of Roads and Footpaths — Marble
Turning and Mosaic Industry— River Derwent— Floods
and Catastrophes— The Otter Indigenous— Derbyshire
Neck.

THERE is underground as well as the open and
superficial scenery at Matlock Bath which demands
a record. This is found in the numerous caverns
which are calculated to excite interest and wonder in the
minds of those who visit them. All of them, with one
exception, have been mined for lead ore, but in the process
of mining the workers have come upon what Farey terms
" vast shake-holes and caverns/' the existence of which he
attributes to the shrinkage of the limestone strata.

The Cumberland Cavern, situate to the rear of the
Bath Terrace Hotel, at the top of a steep but not very
long ascent, is owned by the family of Smedley, in whose
hands it has been for nearly a century. It is stated by
Adam to be the oldest in the place, by which is meant
the longest known. Viewed geologically, it is very

141

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

interesting, as the limestone measures through which it
runs are dislocated, broken, and laid about in a most
promiscuous and surprising manner, so that they cannot
fail to excite the astonishment of the beholder. Shortly
after entering there is a descent of twenty yards, after
which occurs a long flat gallery, where the rock, overlaid
by a bed of clay, has fallen away and left the superposed
stratum with its flat lower face hanging without visible
support, except at the sides of the cavern, where all the
strata are still intact. The dimensions of this gallery are
given by Adam as about ioo yards long, 18 feet high,
and about 20 feet broad. The ceiling or inner roof is
horizontal. At the end of the gallery the broken rocks give
the appearance of utter ruin, as they lie about in masses in
positions most extraordinary. One mass, many tons in
weight, rests upon a mere point. Then occurs a natural
archway, which is very fine, its vaulted roof being
decorated with white stalactite. Selenite is also said to
occur here, while casts of pectens, entrochites, and coral-
loids may be seen in the rocks. This cavern extends a
long distance, and its exploration is an interesting
experience. It has been shown to the public for about
125 years.

The Devonshire Cavern is stated to have been "dis-
covered " in 1824,* though it bears traces of having been
mined from a very remote period, as the veins of lead
ore have been followed and worked with the pick, the
marks of which tool still in many places remain. Later,
the mining operations were pursued by means of drilling
holes in the rocks with a steel auger, t inserting a charge

* Gem of the Peak, 4th edition, p. 77.

tThis was corrupted by the illiterate miners into "a noger," for an
auger, and Mr. Farey, enlightened and able man as he was, adopted
the term from hearing it in constant use.

142

MATLOCK BATH.

of gunpowder, and blasting down the minerals. Up to the
year i860, when he died, it was the property of the late
Mr. Benjamin Bryan, who exhibited it to visitors and from
time to time obtained lead ore from it. At one period,
too> he sought to relieve the dreary monotony of the
Matlock Bath winter season by representations therein of
the incantation scene from Shakespeare's tragedy of
u Macbeth," an enterprise which was attended with success.
The entrance to this cavern is in the steep lane which
branches to the right above the west lodge of the Heights
of Abraham. Immediately after entering the shelter at
the entrance, explorers, having been supplied, as in
several other caverns, with the candle necessary to light
them on their way, proceed for a short distance along a
narrow passage, after which the top of a flight of steps
is reached, and the rocky sides recede, giving more elbow-
room. At the foot of the flight of steps, which is not
long, a pond or tank has been formed, which is filled
with the clear, cold water that percolates through the
overhead strata. Then the road, now wide and commo-
dious, begins to ascend, and continues to do so throughout.
The rocky sides still present traces of the lead ore, for
which the cave was originally and from time immemorial
worked, and now to the right, now to the left, branch roads
are seen where the miners have followed the veins bearing
the metallic wealth which was the object of their search.
These old workings extend downward in many directions,
and have been traced for great distances. Overhead
shafts from the surface come down, and up through these
were drawn, by windlass (called " stowse ") and rope, the
lead and lead-bearing rock, first broken into fragments,
the bulk of the barren stone being thrown aside and left
in the workings. Hence, blocks and pieces of limestone,

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

separated from the parent rock, lie about in profusion,
though in the days when the cavern was commonly shown
— it is not so now — the road through it was very well
kept. This cavern, having an outlet at either end, is
marked by a strong through current of air, to check and
control which and keep the candles from being blown out,
doors are placed at intervals in situations where the
passage narrows in to admit of this being done. Shortly
after passing the second of these doors the great feature
of the cave is reached. This is a long and spacious
opening, 200 feet by 40 feet, with a quite smooth ceiling
or roof dipping at an angle of 45 degrees, entirely self-
supporting, except at the sides, of solid rock. From the
bottom to half-way up winds an imposing flight of steps.
Near the upper end of this spacious theatre, and in the
middle of the there-narrowing space, stands a solitary
conical rock, which was named the Druids* Altar, though the
strong probability is that no Druid ever had any relation
to it. The top of this altar furnished a point of vantage,
however, from whence it was the habit of the guides to
illuminate the cavern by the burning of blue or crimson
lights. Then the spectator saw the spacious opening to
the utmost advantage, and great was the admiration
usually elicited by the sight, the massive rocks standing
out in all their details, great and small. After this, the
ascent was continued, the winding paths of the upper part
being followed through their rocky fastnesses, until finally
the visitors were led through a rock passage to the open
air, emerging at a considerable elevation to gaze upon
a wide and far-spreading prospect of hills and valleys,
rocks, river, and woods. The temperature of the caverns is
unvarying, being about forty-eight degrees Fahrenheit at
all seasons. On entering one of them on a hot summer's

144

MATLOCK BATH.

day, the sensation is that of chilliness, but very shortly
all discomfort disappears, and the unpleasant impression
passes off. On emerging at the other end into a tempera-
ture higher by twenty or thirty degrees than that of the
cavern, the experience is as pleasant as it is surprising,
giving the vivifying thrill of a veritable and glorious sun-
bath, in which all nature around appears to be revelling
in common with ourselves. In winter, the conditions are
reversed, the cavern being much the warmer place when
frost reigns without, and inducing a sense of comfort on
entering, with a reversal to a colder atmosphere on leaving
it This is the only one of the caverns at Matlock Bath
having a through route, with separate entrance and outlet.
Geologically, it lies in the magnesian limestone. It now
belongs to Mrs. Chadwick, of the Lower Tower.

The Rutland Cavern, opened out in 1810, is situated on
the Heights of Abraham. The ascent to the cavern is
considerable, as the entrance lies about half-way up the
mountain side, but the climb is rendered as easy as may
be by the zig-zagging of the road, and agreeable and
attractive by the leafy and umbrageous woods through
which it winds. This is really the old Nestor or Nestus
mine, of which more will appear later. It was formerly
entered and wrought by means of perpendicular shafts
situate in a depression beyond the Victoria Prospect
Tower, at an elevation higher by some two hundred feet
than the present entrance. This entrance, which consists
of a long passage blasted with gunpowder out of the lime-
stone rock, was not made till the date above named. At
places, its sides are encrusted with a deposit made by the
water which percolates from the surface. This water
forms, as it comes through the rocks, a solution with
particles of lime, some of which it constantly leaves behind
10 145

u liaron-stone." It is usually ve:
receiving a high polish, though
thin.

As we proceed, we come upon ;
inserted between the limestone sti
clay, after which there is no m
surface water cannot penetrate the
ward at a considerable angle, an
shield and conduit combined. Af
leads into an opening the height 01
immediately by a larger and high*
Ossian's Hall, the vaulted top of
discern by means even of the gas
is fitted. Up on the right passes 2
the "Roman Gallery," a not alt
name, as it leads to old workings,
are probably as ancient as the R
way up the steps is another "Drc
conical rock hewn round from its
and here, as in the Devonshire Cav
place for burning the illuminating
which enahl* ffc« ~~ u — *-

MATLOCK BATH.

perforations where the miners of the old days have fol-
lowed and wrought the lead ore. Still another opening
lies a little to the left again, at the top end of which the
old working shaft came down, which, being formerly left
uncovered at the surface, the light of day could there be
discerned. From hence radiate numerous miners' pas-
sages, going through the rocks for long distances, and
strewn, as are partially the great openings also, with the dis-
carded debris of the mining operations. Returning to
the first opening, there is a second road going from it to the
right. The dimensions of this passage are those of a
railway tunnel. It leads first to a well of cold spring
water, called, we know not why, " Jacob's Well " ; then
through a narrow gateway into another hall, roofed with
arches of rock branching in various directions and highly
interesting. Here the way is stopped by a stone wall, the
built-up debris of the miners, and although this is by
no means the end of the cavern, its further exploration
is inconvenient, and the visitor returns the way he came.
The cavern, as a whole, is capacious enough, it has been
truly said, to conceal ten thousand men. Having, as one
of the famous old guides was wont to say, "got accus-
tomed to the gloom," the explorer notes the frequent
sparkle of the spars and ores that give feature and variety
to the walls, alternated by the glint of the green of copper
and the silvery brightness of the freshly fractured lead;
and as he leisurely pursues his way back to the light of
day, possibly wonders if the theory of the geologists that
these ponderous and solid rocks were deposited in soft
and separate particles at the bottom of a no longer
existent sea, be founded on firm fact This cave, with the
whole Heights of Abraham, are also owned by Mrs.
Chadwick.

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

The Heights of Abraham, said to have been so named
after the celebrated hill near Quebec, in Canada, where
General Wolfe fell, cover the southern slope of Masson,
and are in great favour with visitors to Matlock Bath as
pleasure grounds, for admission to which a charge is
made. The Heights are well timbered, and points of
vantage on their well-kept walks disclose many charming
views. The extreme north-western boundary of the
Heights rises to an altitude of one thousand feet. At
an elevation of eight hundred feet has been erected the
Victoria Tower, a circular structure about fifty feet in
height. By ascending this the visitor obtains in some
respects a better all-round prospect — and it is a wide,
glorious, and far-reaching one in fine weather — than he
does by climbing the additional three hundred feet to the
summit of Masson. The tower, which was erected by
Mr. John Pechell, the then owner of the property, bears
this commemorative inscription: —

"Victoria Stand.
1844.
J. P."

Brunswood, as the modern pronunciation has it, adjoins
the Heights on the north-east. The lower part of its site
is now built over, and the upper portion, formerly filled
with firs, is devoted mainly to the growth of other timber.
The proper name is Brown's Wood. Richard Blackwall,
who died in 10 Elizabeth (1668), had a tenement with
appurtenances called Brown's Wood, held of the Manor
of Matlock in soccage by one penny rent, but reputed to
be worth ^3 8s. 4d. per annum.

There is a second cavern on the Heights which is
now open to the public. It is a disused lead mine, wrought
from time immemorial, and not impossibly, as is claimed,

148

MATLOCK BATH.

in the days of the Roman occupation. It has various
large chambers, the greatest being stated to be 220 feet
in length by 90 feet high, with a varying width of 12 to
40 feet. The roof and sides are characterised by fine
dog-tooth shaped and other spars, crystals, and minerals,
which sparkle in the gas-light used as an illuminant.
There is an outlet at an altitude of 800 feet, from whence
a fine and far-stretching prospect is obtained. The pro-
prietors of this interesting cave are Messrs. J. and A. J.
Greatorex, of Matlock Dale.

The Speedwell Cavern, formerly called the "New
Speedwell Mine," is now entered from the grounds
attached to the Pavilion, near the locality still known as
Upper Wood, though no wood now remains there. It is
some four hundred yards long, having an entrance with
many steps. It is remarkable for a profusion of stalactites
in a variety of forms, and for numerous cavities lined with
crystals of dog-tooth shaped and cubical fluor spars, which
sparkle in the light of the lamps by which the cave is
now lit, and produce pleasing effects, apart from and in
addition to their geological interest. Adam mentions a
stalactitic group resembling a cauliflower, and also that
he removed another group simulating a series of organ-
pipes attached to a plate or horizontal layer of the same
material. This was sold sixty years ago to the Duke of
Devonshire, and placed in the conservatory at Chatsworth.
There are large openings or halls in this cavern, and
when, half-a-century ago, it was shown by Mr. Benjamin
Froggatt, there was an exit into the road through Upper
Wood.

The High Tor Grotto is situate at the foot of the rocks
a little south of the High Tor, and is entered from the
main road through the Dale by means of a footbridge

149

HISTORY OF MATLOCK-

across the Derwent, and a second over the side stream
to the water-wheel at the paintworks close by. This cave
is celebrated for its fine crystallisations in calcareous spar
of dog-tooth shapes, and though the effect to the eye is
somewhat marred by the accumulations of smoky dis-
colouration on the surface, geologically the interest is
undiminished. Mr. J. H. Cardin is the intelligent pro-
prietor.

There are other caverns now exhibited which have been
opened out much more recently. One of these is situate
by the side of the road from Matlock Bath Station to
Upper Wood, on a site known as the u Heights of Jacob."
From hence a wide-spreading prospect is available over
the Pavilion grounds, which are immediately below the
spectator's feet, and extending to the rocks beyond the
river and northward to the High Tor, with a large part
of the Bath visible as it lies in the hollow below. The
features of the cavern include spacious cavities or
openings, grottoes, spar archways, a " rising gallery," and
veins of lead ore and barytes. Mr. Jacob Raynes is the
lessee.

The Long Tor Roman Fluor Spar Cavern is a disused
lead mine, which may have been wrought by the Roman
invaders of these islands. Its interesting characteristics
are fluor spar, dog-tooth crystals, calcareous spar, black
and grey marbles, with fossil shells embedded in its rocks.
It has been exhibited for a few years only, is situated at
the entrance to Matlock Dale, on the west side of the
river, and is but a short distance from the railway station.
It is owned and shown by Mrs. Whittaker.

The petrifying wells, so called, at Matlock Bath are
formed in the streams of the thermal mineral waters.
As to " petrify " means to turn to stone, the title of the

150

MATLOCK BATH.

wells is not literally correct What happens is that the
water, being highly charged with mineral salts and lime
in solution, deposits on suitable articles placed in its way
a coating or jacket of stony material. The process is com-
pleted most quickly when the articles to undergo it are
lightly splashed by the spray arising from a stream falling
on a stone. About twelve months suffice to deposit a
stout layer, but the longer an article is left in the well
the more it resembles solid stone. The objects deposited
must not be left undisturbed for the period named, but
must be moved about from time to time, otherwise they
become immovably fastened to the rock or other base
on which they stand. No fleshy substance can be
"petrified," as it would dissolve and wash away under
the action of the water, but an immense variety of objects
is available. Birds' nests, constructed for the purpose,
with eggs, and the eggs of poultry, ducks, and, indeed,
of any bird, have always been popular, as being saleable,
for the contents of the wells are usually on sale as well
as for exhibition. In Adam's time, the leading wells were
Mr. Joseph Pearson's at the base of the retaining wall to the
road to the Royal Hotel, visited by the Princess Victoria in
October, 1832, now closed; Mr. Peter Smedley's, under
his spar shop (now demolished), opposite the stream
south-east of the church; and Mr. Joseph Boden's, opposite
the National Schools. A feature of the latter down to
1868 was the number of horns of deer obtained for
encrustation, usually from Chatsworth Park, and it is
recorded that the bony head and antlers of deer killed
at that place at the time of Princess Victoria's visit were
placed in this well, and remained there for many years.
Another well, also now closed, was made about 1844 by

151

and other <>l>jerts, either enrrust
beinu so. There were also a hu
London years ago), the skull of
spinning wheels, a man-trap with •
attached, special features confined t
modem well is that of Mr. W. P
the Old Bath Hill, which intercept
to the fish pond. Here the choice
on a postman's and a policeman's
head and tusks, in addition to a
but still interesting objects, well ill
the water and the process of encrust
Matlock Bath has had the hone
than one Royal visit. On the 22nd
late lamented Majesty the Queen, tl
came here with her royal mother, 1
The Bath, it is recorded, was pre-en
autumn, the season being exception
trees retaining their leafy honours
the oncoming of the fall being marl
ordinary diversity and splendour ir
woods from time to ti'»«« *~- 1

MATLOCK BATH.

ride of the road, from which were suspended festoons and
garlands of flowers. The fronts of the houses on the
Museum Parade were also decorated, the country for ten
miles round having been denuded of its floral treasures
for the occasion. The Bakewell Brass Band was in
attendance, and struck up the national air on the approach
of the royal visitors. The Duke of Devonshire is stated
to have looked delighted, and no doubt his royal guests
were also pleased. They drove on to Belper, where
Messrs. Strutt's mills were inspected. On returning, the
royal party and their friends alighted at the Bath, and
visiting the museums and petrifying wells, examined their
contents and had the process of encrustation in the latter
explained to them by the attentive Mr. Adam.* The
Princess, with her mother, host, and suite, afterwards
returned to Chatsworth.

On the 31st of July, 1840, Matlock Bath was again
honoured by a royal visit. On this occasion, it was the
Dowager Queen Adelaide, widow of William IV., who
came, accompanied by the Duchess of Saxe-Weimar.
With them were Earl Howe, the Earl and Countess of
Sheffield, the Earl of Denbigh, and others. The party
arrived at the Old Bath Hotel about three in the after-
noon. The inhabitants had again decorated the place by
erecting arches, planting evergreens, and displaying
festoons of flowers. Flap also were hoisted, and there
was a general demonstration of pleasure on the occasion.
a Shortly after her arrival, Her Majesty left the hotel to
view the various beauties of this lovely spot, when she
was heartily welcomed by a royal salute from cannon on
the neighbouring heights and the affectionate greeting of

♦Mr. Adam was first manager and afterwards proprietor of
M awe's Museum, which occupied the house with a large bay window
on the first floor on the Parade, and which was built for an hotel.

*53

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

inspect Messrs. Stratus cotton factory, and then proceeded
along the newly-formed road by the river side to Matlock
Bath. Alighting at the Old Bath Hotel, the Grand Duke
and suite remained there till the following day, when, as
the chronicler of these events has it, they proceeded to
explore the romantic beauties of the place, and parti-
cularly the Rutland Cavern. The ascent of the Heights
of Abraham was performed on ponies, and it is related
that His Imperial Highness was followed up the hill
by a number of ladies, when he, "by one of those fine
traits of high rank and high breeding, reversed his person
on the pony, that his attention to the ladies might be
marked by the highest possible compliment. 11 On leaving
Matlock Bath at three o'clock in the afternoon, the Grand
Duke and his party were greeted by the acclamations of
the whole population of the place, who had assembled
on the Museum Parade to witness his departure, and he
acknowledged the compliment with the utmost affability
and good humour.* The Imperial party proceeded to
Chatsworth, where entertainment was provided for them,
though the Duke of Devonshire was not in residence.
From Chatsworth they went on to Castleton, and after-
wards to Sheffield.

On the ioth of August, 187 1, the Emperor Dom
Pedro II. of Brazil and his Empress, who had come
from Sheffield, visiting en route Chatsworth and Haddon
Hall, arrived at Matlock Bath. Their visit having been
anticipated, they were received on their arrival between
five and six o'clock in the afternoon by a local committee
formed for the purpose, who presented an address. A
band had been engaged, and supplied suitable music,
while a large crowd of the inhabitants cheered their
* Derby Mercury.

156

MATLOCK BATH.

Imperial Majesties. The road to the New Bath Hotel,
where their Majesties were to be accommodated for the
night, had been decorated for the occasion, and on pro-
ceeding along it, a renewal of the warm welcome given
at the station was forthcoming. Their Majesties and
suite left next day for Cambridge.

The Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria, 1897, was the
occasion of great rejoicing here. The place was prettily
decorated, garlands with mottoes being hung across the
main thoroughfare. On one of these was "The Record
Reign," with the word " Unfinished " on the reverse.
Another motto was, " Sixty, not out." The proceedings
of the day began with a general assembly on the broad
end of the Jubilee Promenade, wherein the Vicar and
leading inhabitants were included, as well as many adults
and children. Half-an-hour after noon there was a dinner
off the time-honoured roast beef and plum pudding to
people over sixty; at a quarter -past two a distribution
of medals to the children on the promenade; at half-past,
a short service, with the singing of Jubilee hymns; at
four, a children's tea in the Pavilion, nearly three hundred
children up to sixteen years of age being included; at
five, children's sports for prizes, enlivened by the strains
of the Masson Mill Band ; at nine, a general illumination by
fairy lamps and Chinese and Japanese lanterns; at half-
past nine, a flight of rockets from the top of
Masson, and a torchlight procession from near the
Jubilee bridge down the eastern bank of the river,
then up and over the rocks, and back to the starting point.
This was followed by a procession of illuminated boats
on the river and simultaneous illumination of the walks
and rocks by coloured fires. At ten o'clock, the final
instalment was reached, a bonfire being then lighted on

*57

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

Masson. On the previous Sunday, June 20th, the Vicar
had preached a specially appropriate sermon in Holy
Trinity Church to a large congregation.

The expenses of the celebration were defrayed by a
subscription, realising ^30, supplemented by a sura equal
to a penny rate, namely, ^40, out of the rates.

At Scarthin, the inhabitants, adults, and children
paraded their main street, after which they assembled in
the little Church, where they were addressed in appropriate
terms by Mr. H. H. Cubley, a prominent Churchman of
Matlock Bath, representing the Vicar. Later, headed by
part of the Lea Mills Brass Band, they marched into
different parts of Cromford singing hymns and anthems.
Subsequently, two hundred children and four hundred
adults were supplied with tea and the customary festive
accompaniments, in a room at the Cromford brewery
which had been handsomely decorated for the occasion.
After tea, there were sports, and in the evening Scarthin
made itself brilliant with lighted windows and other illu-
minations. The costs were defrayed by a subscription,
which produced ^36, mainly contributed by the Com-
mittee, composed of some forty of the inhabitants.

In 1896, an important question between the Local and
County Councils as to the liability for the repair and
maintenance of footpaths as parts of the main roads,
formerly turnpikes, was decided in favour of the locality,
after five years' litigation, the result giving rise to a
feeling of elation and triumph throughout the community.
In 1 89 1, the then Local Board had claimed from the
county ^310 6s. 3d., the amount expended in maintaining
and improving footpaths within their district in that year.
On the 2nd of February, 1892, a communication from the
Clerk to the County Council announced to the Board that

158

MATLOCK BATH.

his authority had decided not to entertain the claim. In
the month of April following, the Local Board decided
to invite the Local Government Board to appoint an
arbitrator, as provided by statute, to consider and adjudi-
cate on the matter. The County Council consented to
this course, with the proviso that if the decision went
against them they should have the right to appeal. An
arbitrator having been appointed, he, in March, 1894,
made an award in favour of the Local Board, with the
exception of the cost of the purchase of certain land for
widening the footpath facing the Fountain Villas, on the
North Parade. The amount awarded was ^264, one-
half the costs being also ordered to be paid by the County
Council. The decision was based on one by the Court
of Queen's Bench in a case arising at Warminster, wherein
it was held that the footpaths adjoining a main road were
part of the road, to pay for the repair of which the
county was liable. The County Council, however, still
adhered to the view that there was a difference between
the case of Matlock Bath and that of Warminster. In
August, 1894, it was agreed that a friendly action to test
the point should be raised, and an arrangement was entered
into that each authority should bear its own costs, but
at the instance of the Bath Board, now an Urban Council,
this arrangement was afterwards abrogated. By this time
there was the sum of ^612 7s. 5&, by reason of further
expenditure on similar work, hanging on the decision.
Still acting on the advice of Mr. F. C. Lymn, their clerk,
whose opinion was fortified by that of counsel, a writ of
action was issued on the 7th January, 1895, and the
County Council entered appearance in due course. The
case was heard before Mr. Justice Wright, in the Court
of Queen's Bench, London, on the 25th July, 1895, the

159

uLTnitNl against them ; anil thrr
whrrc on the rSih April, 189ft,
Chancellor, without calling on
Bath, announced the decision
in its favour, in accordance with
minster case. The final result
meeting of the County Council (
when the Bridges and Highways
the county had been held respc
footpaths forming part of a road
a turnpike road, whether the s<
District or not, and it was recomi
,£264 be paid to the Matlock I
with the taxed costs. As a sort of
it was at the same time announce
repayment for repairs to footpath
future would be dealt with on the
There still survives at Matlocl
marble turning, inlaying, and engr
limited in extent and shorn of
importance. In 1835 it was in
perity. Its founder was Mr m«-

MATLOCK BATH.

executed in the best style by Derbyshire workmen," copies
of the obelisks of Rameses and Cleopatra (popularly
known as " Cleopatra's Needle "—indeed, the local name
for all obelisks is " needles "), paper weights in mosaic,
plain, or engraved ; mosaic brooches, necklaces, ear-drops,
etc. Mr. Vallance, who occupied adjoining premises, and
at an earlier date had been manager for Mr. Mawe, who
lived elsewhere, advertised himself as the vendor of vases
of the amethystine and topazine fluor spar, and of black
marble, of the most elegant forms; obelisks, candelabra,
etc., formed after the antique; tables, urns, memorials,
and altars; Cleopatra's and Banks's Needles, correctly
copied in miniature, with the inscriptions, etc. With the
waning of the attractions of medicinal water drinking and
the advent, later, of the railway, bringing its thousands
of excursionists, the class of customers able to purchase
the articles of a costly nature fell off, and the industry
itself consequently languished. In 1884 an effort was
made to effect a revival. In the month of May in that
year an exhibition of local and other art work was
organised and arranged in the large room at the Fountain
Baths, Sir Philip Cunliffe Owen, then director of the
South Kensington Museum, coming down to open it, and
Messrs. W. and H. H. Bemrose, of Derby, with many of
the local magistrates and gentry, giving it their valuable
support. The intention was excellent, but the market for
the highest class of goods has become limited, and the
chief demand is now for articles of a cheaper class.

The Derwent, flowing through the valley, makes a
notable and attractive addition to the scenery, as water
always does in a landscape, and ministers to the pleasure
of thousands who gaze upon it or float in boats upon its
surface. But a river, like the sea, can at times be very
it 161

between the tunru-ls immediate
temporary bridge had been t
blasted and broken stone wa
between the road and river on t
remains. At the temporary brid
supported by a central trestle, *
in line with the stream, when t
means of chains, and it remai
the waters subsided. The parts
by one carried away, until a sing
remained. Another bridge, lea
Grotto or Cave, was also broke
decessors at the same spot had b
a temporary bridge at Cawdor w
On the 16th of January, 1852,
practice as a surgeon at Buxton,
Bath, where his mother had ke]
was on a visit to this place w
was then in flood, but the boy
take him out in a rowing boat
obtained from Mr. Thomas Wal
of the boats, and !»•-—■•

MATLOCK BATH.

upper ferry, then the only one, proceeded down the river.
In spite of the warning and his alleged knowledge,
Mr. dimming went too far, and when he tried to turn
the boat it was too late: he was in the grasp of the
powerful current that was pouring over Masson Weir at
the rate of many thousands of tons a minute, with a
terrible, deafening roar. The boat, which was nearer the
Willersley side, soon stuck among the large stones with
which the slope of the weir was strewn, and was there
held. The desperate situation of the boat and its
occupants was discerned from the road, and signals were
made to Mr. dimming to remain still, while ropes were
at once sought, and it was proposed to go round by
Cromford Bridge to reach the Willersley side. Mr.
Cumming, believing apparently that he could breast the
stream, which was rushing down with immense volume
and mighty force, took his boy in his arms, and got out
of the boat, which, thus lightened, at once floated from
its position, and was washed away. The father was
again and again washed off his feet, but as often struggled
up and regained them, making for the Matlock Bath
bank, which was estimated to be sixty yards off. At
length, however, he finally went down, was washed away
with his son in his arms, and both were lost to sight. The
river was at once dragged, but the bodies were not
recovered till fourteen days later, the flood having con-
tinued nearly the whole of that time. They were found near
the junction of the Lea Brook with the river. Mr. Cum-
ming left a wife and seven children, and the greatest
sympathy was excited. A subscription was opened, and
a sum of ;£i,ioo or ^1,200 was raised. The sequel was
that Mrs. Cumming, the widow, who, it had been settled,

163

- vi uit' uu\\ npoui
which had previously fallen, ;
merged throughout its length.
the cellars and lower rooms <
doing much damage. Such we
of water in the roadway that t
its surface, and plied for some
of passengers, among whom m;
fortable incidents arose. Mass
water-wheel, was brought to a si
and not re-started till the Wedn
waters again overflowed. Crom
submerged, and communication I
the station stopped.

The flood of the 14th and
overflowed the eastern side of t
and covered the lower parts of the
at its highest, the water was lev
bank on the west side, and only
the road. Masson Mill was stop
overwhelming the wheel that sup]
The level reached was three feet
of 18A*

MATLOCK BATH.

members of his church choir to Matlock Bath, and in
the afternoon went on the river in a boat, with a
Mr. Parkinson, Miss Wilkins, and three little boys. The
Vicar was rowing, and although he noticed a danger
signal and warning— erected in consequence of former
accidents — went right down to the weir, which was dry.
When there he dropped an oar in the water, and did not
recover it Being on the westerly side of the river, near
where the goyt runs down to the mill, the strong running
stream drew the boat along, and in the circumstances it
was impossible to stop it. Miss Wilkins jumped out into
two or three feet of water. The boat was overturned,
and Harry Marriott, a boy of thirteen, was drowned.
Mr. McKee was thrown into the water and driven under
the open shuttle, but managed to scramble out lower down
— a marvellous escape. At the inquest, while the jury
considered Mr. McKee's action to have been indiscreet,
they declined to formally censure him.

Again, a boat, carelessly rowed, went over the weir,
the result being the loss of four lives. Towards evening
on Good Friday, April 16th, 1897, two young men and
two young women hired a boat at the main ferry, and
with a young man named Seedhouse, employed as a
boatman for the day, proceeded down the river, the
passengers rowing. They passed the floating buoy and
danger signal placed to warn people when to turn back,
and rowed straight on. There had been recent heavy
rain, the river was high and, the mill being stopped, an
enormous volume of water was flowing over the weir
with cataract force. The boat, with way on it, got
beyond control, and, twisted round by the rushing water,
was swept over, stern first. Immediately it jammed
among some of the pieces of rock which strew the slope

165

.... »cic sisters nameu
near Clay Cross — was recovered
hundred yards lower down; that o
named Arthur Whittaker, the next
ley; the other young man, Henry
evening of that day, half a milt
young men came from Westhous<
were about twenty-one years of a
was made to recover the body
woman, Annie Holmes, for a space
without success. It was conjecture
been carried right out to sea; but
It was, however, never recovered.

On Good Friday, April 5th,
thousand excursionists visited Matl
these were Luke and Benjamin Broi
Nottinghamshire, twenty-one and ei
respectively. Towards evening the
others hired a boat at the landing
ferry, and were rowed by a man ii
Urban District Council. They went 1
down again, and as far as the sout
New B** w~— -

MATLOCK BATH.

The river is stated, on the authority of a local news-
paper, to have sunk to its lowest recorded level on the
nth of November, 1901, it being then two feet lower
than in 1868, the previous lowest. Immediately after the
first-named date there was a heavy fall of rain, and by
the 13th of November the river had become swollen to
a six feet flood level, overflowing in some places into the
main road. The water is described as having come down
"as thick as pea soup," laden with the accumulated
washings of the hillsides and roads and the pollutions of
the river bed after an almost continuous drought,
extending over the preceding summer and autumn. The
rain ceasing, the water subsided with great rapidity.

There was another flood at the end of December,
1901, which, while rising nearly to the top of the
boundary wall of the Jubilee Promenade, did not overflow
on that side. On the eastern side, however, the lower
walk was deeply under water. Much damage was done
along the banks, and some trees were washed down.

That interesting amphibious animal, the otter (lutra
vulgaris), is indigenous to Matlock Bath, but no specimen
of it has been actually seen during the last few years,
though its spoor was observed in 1901. The haunt of
the otter half a century ago lay in that portion of the
river opposite the New Bath Hotel, where the west
bank is rocky and the east bank steep and wooded. The
latter bank, being reserved as part of the Willersley
demesne, was little frequented. Of late years, changes
have been made on both sides at this part of the river.
Since the establishment of the fish hatchery there has
been more foot traffic on the east side; the extreme
southern end of the Orchard Holme has been cultivated,
and consequently more frequented; and finally a ferry

167

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

has been established in recent years close to the otter's
old habitat. The kind of treatment usually meted out
to otters when they were detected may be gathered frond
the following statement, condensed from a county journal.
On the 5th March, 1857, a family of four were seen
about the place indicated. The owner of a gun residing
near, shot at two 2 and a search or hunt was set on foot,
with the view of exterminating them all. In the even-
ing, two more shots were obtained, but without fatal
effect About dusk, one of the young ones was partially
disabled with a stone. In 1888, two others were caught,
killed, and, of course, stuffed. It is not at all surprising,
in the light of these facts, that otters should have almost,
if not entirely, disappeared from the locality in question.
Half a century ago, though the otter was seldom seen, its
call, a shrill whistle, was frequently heard after sunset,
emanating from what in the darkness seemed the mys-
terious depth of the watery gorge about the present
south ferry.

There was formerly prevalent here a malady which was
regarded as so peculiar to the county that it was called
"Derbyshire neck." Scientifically, it was known as
bronchocele, but in recent times more commonly as goitre,
the French word applied to it in Switzerland, where it
also prevails. It consisted of a swelling of the thyroid
gland in the front of the neck and beneath the chin.
Sometimes this swelling was very large, and its local name
of "full neck" was, therefore, appropriate. It was
common about Matlock Bath half a century ago, but now
a case is seldom seen. The cause was said to be found
in the use of the tepid water, largely charged with lime
and other salts in solution, and this opinion appeared to

168

MATLOCK BATH.

be confirmed by the fact that the people of the Canton
of the Valois in Switzerland, living upon a limestone
formation under similar conditions, suffered in the same
way. When the goitre grew very large, and pressed on
the windpipe, it visibly influenced the breathing of the
person affected, but it was not dangerous, and except
when it occurred in young people, who disliked the
deformity, medical treatment for it was seldom sought.
The modern treatment for the malady sometimes takes
the medical form and sometimes the surgical. Although
the complaint is not extinct, many cases having been
treated of late years in London, in the north of England,
and in Ireland, it is certainly less prevalent here. This
fact may have some connection with the improved water
supply, which was supplemented in 1864 by the forma-
tion of a reservoir on the gritstone above Darley, and
again in 1893 by laying under contribution the spring
known as " Brown's," on the Derby road beyond Cromford,
also on the gritstone, as described elsewhere.

169

MATLOCK

The Ecclesiastical Parish — Hoi
ments— Vicars— Bequests— So
National Schools — Lady Gle
Other Chapels— Local Gove*
Works — Postal Service — Pi
Walks — Boats — Litigation—
and Gardens— Freemasons — C
Club— Paper Mill—" The H
Earthquake— Botanic Garde*
Schools— Pedigree of Leacrof

THE boundary of the ecclesi
Bath commences with tt
north side of the vicara
a north-westerly direction behind
direct to Ember Farm, which it
f in a southerly direction to the sti

™ of Mutton field from the Upp

I onward to the top of Chapel H

along and embraces Scarthin Is
building occupied as a chemist

MATLOCK BATH.

is dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and is an elegant struc-
ture in the Early Decorated Gothic style. It is cruciform
in shape, and ranges from south-east to north-west It
originally consisted of nave of three bays, transepts, and
chancel, with a tower and spire at the west end. In
*873-4 it was enlarged by the addition of a north aisle,
the extension of the chancel, and the erection of a new
vestry on the south side of the latter. At the same
time, the organ gallery on the first floor of the tower was
taken down — the organ being removed to the chancel —
and the edifice re-seated.

The rectangular tower, the upper part of which con-
tains the belfry, is well-proportioned, divided outwardly
by projecting bands into unequal compartments, is battle-
mented on its octagonal summit and pinnacled at the
corners. The ground floor of the tower was originally
appropriated as the vestry, with loft over for the organ
and choir, now located in the chancel. The tower is
surmounted by a spire, the height of the two together
being 129 feet. The spire is octagonal, crocketed on the
angles up to the summit, and supported by flying but-
tresses. Originally, the entire length of the Church,
exteriorly, including the tower, was 103 ft., its interior
length being 95 ft The width of the nave was
27 ft 3 ins., extending to 53 ft at the transepts, each
of which has a breadth of 21 ft The first stone was laid
by the Ven. Walter Shirley, Archdeacon of Derby, on the
9th of June, 1 84 1, and the Church was completed and
opened for divine worship on the 5th of October, 1842,
when it was consecrated by the Bishop of Hereford, acting
for the Bishop of Lichfield, in whose diocese it then
was. Great interest was excited on this occasion, the
clergy from all the neighbouring parishes attending,

171

_..„cum lieaumont, who t
Rath H<»tel, and was, moreover
the cost of the fabric, the or£
of the site. There are four hi
two-thirds of which are free. M
was the architect who designed th
sions and alterations, Mr. Streatl

Up to 1899 the tower containe
Mears, whose name it bears. In t
hemispherical bells was erected,
Lawton, Chairman of the Urban

The reredos is divided into
recessed and surrounded by a mas
shire alabaster, with pilasters in ;
the recesses are ornamented, the ce
those at the sides with geometric
of the whole being heightened by
and marbles.

A stained east window was pla
Mrs. Charles Clarke, in memory
but there is no inscription. This
partments and a traceried head, an
In th* n****~~ --

MATLOCK BATH.

Charles Clarke, of Masson Lodge. The subject illus-
trated is the parable of the Good Samaritan. The
figures of the Levite, the Priest, and the Samaritan are
strikingly drawn and coloured, and the composition as
a whole is meritorious.

At the time of the alterations to the Church, a fine
new lectern of burnished brass was given by the then
Vicar, the Rev. R. P. Pelly, and Mr. W. R. Barker,
jointly, and still forms a prominent feature.

The following are the memorial inscriptions in the
Church :

On a brass plate on the south chancel wall : —

"In memory of John Martin Maynard, formerly incumbent of
this parish, who died September 16th, 187 1, and is interred in this
churchyard. This tablet is erected by his affectionate widow."

On a mural monument in the north transept: —
"In affectionate remembrance of Jane, wife of H. S. J. Colling-
wood* and daughter of the late Rev. Richard Ward, rector of
Sutton and for upwards of forty years incumbent of the churches of
Cromford and Dethick. She died November 30, 1864, and was
interred at Rhyl, in North Wales. She sleeps in the hope of a
blessed resurrection."

On a mural monument over the north door in the
nave: —

" This Tablet is erected by the Inhabitants of Matlock Bath and
other friends in memory of George Withers Saxton, of this place, by
whose unwearied perseverance in the service of his Lord and
Saviour, the numerous voluntary contributions by which this church
was built were chiefly raised, and in testimony of the grateful respect
entertained towards him by those whose spiritual interests he so
greatly promoted, and who desire to glorify God in him. He died
January 8th, 1862, in the 64th year of his age. * Let us not be
weary in well doing, for in due season we shall reap if we faint
not.' Gal. iv. C;."t

* Formerly of Tor House, Matlock Dale.

t Mr. Saxton, a native of Crich, with his sisters, conducted for
many years the New Bath Hotel. After the building of the Church
he lent an outbuilding at the hotel for a Sunday School, acting him-
self as superintendent.

173

( )n a brass ]>late <>n the n<

the an^lc <>t the n<»rth transept

" This tablet is erected by membei
their grateful respect for the memo.
Maston Lodge, in this parish, who d
spent chiefly in this place always 1
delighting to further them to the ut
sidering the poor and needy. She w;
J died October 17, 1885."

Outside the east end of the

stone, which contrasts with mar

near it, is thus inscribed. —

"In memory of Charles Clarke,t

30, 1788, Died April 15, 1873; also (

j/ January, 1803, Died 17 October, 1885.

Another tomb in the church)
tioned, commemorates Dr. Robei
Mary Anne, daughter of Peter J
lersley. He died the 4th of Jun
' 10th of March, 1891.

Another adjacent monument is

I J the Rev. William Arkwright, am

\ John Woiley. Sh<* «— u -

MATLOCK BATH.

addition of a piece of land on the south-east side, which
was made over by the owner as a free gift to the parish.
This land was valued at ,£150, and a sum of £84 4s. 4d.
was voluntarily subscribed for the purpose of defraying
the expense of fencing and draining it. This work having
been carried out, the additional burial ground was con-
secrated on the 1 2th July, 1900, by the Right Rev.
Dr. Were, Suffragan-Bishop of Derby, who at the same
time dedicated the new peal of bells.

The ecclesiastical district, now the parish, of Matlock
Bath, was formed in 1842. The register dates from the
same year. The living is a vicarage in the gift of
trustees, its net yearly value being ,£270. There are
sittings for five hundred persons. The Rev. Charles
Baker, of St. Bees College, Cumberland, instituted in
1883, is the present incumbent.
The former incumbents were : —
Rev. W. G. Barker, instituted 1842.

„ Alexander H. Synge, „ 1853.

„ J. M. Maynard, „ 1859.

„ Charles Evans, „ 1865.

„ Walter Webb Woodhouse, „ 1867.

„ Raymond P. Pelly, „ 1869.

„ Edward Latham, „ 1875.

Miss Anne Walters, of Masson Cottage, who died in
July, 1899, bequeathed to the vicar and churchwardens
of Holy Trinity, Matlock Bath, ten jQio ordinary shares
in the Belper Gas Company, the capital value of which
was £240, in trust, to distribute the interest thereof among
the poor of the parish every Christmas, for ever. The
available income is £10 per annum.

Mr. Edward Greenhough, for many years a tradesman
and people's warden of the parish, who died in 1899, by

175

„ . " v - lar *e on the c

the .nn.ml,e„,.y of the R ev "
™* opened for divine servio

2^°7 ° f thC Church — '
«te at d,sposal. The structur

«w consists mainly of nav

"**?• It has a three-light
centre of the north wall, with 1
^-therside. The entrance
S W approache d by a fligh
J^ed porch. There is acconnS
are a persons. The arrhiWf
*-**. DiWnV^r
noon, and on one wp*>lr-^„

tne following inscription:—
Another Church at the opposi,

W'°" d ne,evatedsitebetw -

■kvu^ks, and was Arc^f^ .•_ ~

MATLOCK BATH.

of four lights is filled with stained glass, and as the church
is built over a spring, the subject of the window generally
is the symbolical use of the word " water " in the Bible.
Each compartment shows an angel ministering to man-
kind in connection with water. On the right, an angel
holds a child at the font; in the next light, one guides
a soul through the waters of Death; in the third, one
ministers the "Water of Life" by means of the Holy
Communion; and on the left, a fourth angel, clad in the
gaib of St. John the Baptist, guides the stream of the
Water of Life, which flows through a vessel in his hand
on to the ground.

The National Schools, erected in 1853, stand on a site
between road and river, near the south weir. They pro-
vide accommodation for two hundred boys and girls and
seventy infants. There is a master's residence in the
basement, now disused. The Church Sunday School is
carried on in the same building.

In the days when all travel on wheels had of necessity
to be made along the public roads, many important and
surprising events, strange adventures, and remarkable
acquaintances arose out of the breaking down of a car-
riage. It was not often, however, that such an occurrence
served to throw a touch of romance over the history of
a place of public worship. Yet this was the case with
Lady Glenorchy's chapel at Matlock Bath. The bio-
grapher of Lady Glenorchy # states that passing from
Carlisle, probably on her way to Buxton, in the month
of August, 1784, Lady Glenorchy reached Matlock Bath
on a Saturday. Here her carriage broke down, which
obliged her to remain over the Sabbath. " On making

• The Life of Willielma, Vicountess GUnorchy % by T. S. Jones,
D.D., Edinburgh, 1822, p. 501.

12 177

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

inquiries, as she usually did wherever she went, con-
cerning the state of religion in this village, and finding
it very low, she was induced to make proposals for
purchasing a small but neat house, originally built (in
1777) for the managing partner of a cotton mill, and
which had a chapel adjoining capable of containing three
hundred persons. This purchase she finally accom-
plished."* The purchase was completed early in 1785,
and Lady Glenorchy resided at Matlock Bath up to
September in that year. In a "Meditation," said to be
the last she wrote, dated on the 2nd of September, her
forty-fourth birthday, she remarks that the Lord had given
her a delightful habitation in this place, and the prospect
of some souls being brought to the knowledge of the
Gospel, "which is preached under my roof." She died
in the following year. She was the younger and
posthumous daughter of William Maxwell, Esq., of
Preston, Kirkcudbrightshire. On the 28th of Septem-
ber, 1 76 1, she was married, being then in her twentieth
year, to John, Viscount Glenorchy, only son and heir
of the third Earl of Breadalbane. She is stated
to have possessed fine talents, which had been
developed by a liberal education, was a first-rate amateur
musician, had a charming voice, and was naturally
vivacious and gay. She entered heartily into the amuse-
ments of the sphere in which she moved, but did not
enjoy good health. In 1765 she became an earnest and
pious Christian, and so remained, devoting herself to the
promotion of religious feeling in others.

It will have been seen that the chapel at Matlock Bath
was not built by Lady Glenorchy. It was erected by

*Dr. Jones's Life.

178

MATLOCK BATH.

Mr. Needs, a partner with Richard Arkwright in the
cotton mills. As the business in these developed,
Arkwright took sole control, and Mr. Needs went out of
the firm, leaving, when he did so, the chapel, house, and
grounds unoccupied. It was then that Lady Glenorchy
came on the scene and acquired the property. Not only
did she do that, but she took immediate steps for the
supply of the pulpit with faithful men, for the proper
selection of whom she took the greatest pains. Her
written instructions were " that the ministers of the place
should be either of the Presbyterian body or that the
doctrines of the Assembly's Catechism should be the
general platform of the truths to be there proclaimed."
The services have, however, long been conformed to the
usage of the denomination formerly known as the Inde-
pendent and now as the Congregational.

Lady Glenorchy was present at the formation of the
church, and gave directions as to the persons to be united
in fellowship therein. She also drew up for signature by
them a bond of " a covenant " to show to the world and
the whole church of Christ a pattern of how believers
should walk and abound more and more in all the graces
and fruits of the spiritual life. She presented sacramental
vessels with her name and arms, with other furniture for
the Lord's Table; she also bequeathed the chapel, with
the house and furniture, to the Rev. Jonathan Scott,
together with a sum of ,£5,000 for the education of
young men for the ministry and for other kindred objects.
The first minister was the Rev. Joseph Whitehead, who
took up the pastorate in 1790, and extended his labours
to the places round, so that branch churches arose at
Middleton-by-Wirksworth, Bakewell, Belper, and other
places. Mr. Whitehead's stay was not very long, as he

179

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

retired in 1794, and was succeeded by the Rev. Jonathan
Scott, who, having been in the army long before he
entered the ministry, was called Captain Scott Mr. Scott
was a man of large means, and he not only preached, but
devoted much of his fortune to the erection of numerous
places of worship, and in some instances to their endow-
ment. He laboured on for thirteen years, when, in
consequence of an accident he met with by the overturning
of his carriage, he retired to Nantwich, where he died in
1807. He left his library, rich in the works of Noncon-
formist divines, and containing above seven hundred
volumes, to the chapel and cause at Matlock Bath. The
Rev. John Wilson, a native of Huddersfield, succeeded
Mr. Scott, settling at the chapel in 1807, and continuing
there for twenty-three years. He retired to Nottingham
in 1831. The succeeding ministers were the Rev. R.
Iittler, Rev. T. M. Newnes, Rev. W. Tiler, and Rev.
F. R. Bellamy, still in occupation, who was installed
in 1867.

There was always a schoolroom attached to Glenorchy
chapel, but it was small and inconvenient, and below the
level of the road, being attained by descending a flight
of steps. Towards the end of the year 1849 an effort was
made to raise subscriptions for the purpose of erecting
a more commodious structure on the same site, adjoining
the chapel. Sufficient funds having been realised, a
commencement was made early in 1850, and though not
quite finished, the present substantial school of red brick
was opened on the 26th of June in that year. The
morning preacher was the Rev. R. Pritchett, of Derby;
the Rev. J. Angel James, an eloquent minister of the
denomination, officiating in the evening. A Derby
newspaper,* recording the event, remarked that "for

• The Reporter. 180

MATLOCK BATH.

once persons of different sects and parties seemed to
forget their petty distinctions, whilst recognising in Mr.
James 'a burning and a shining light. 1 " The then
resident minister, the Rev. T. M. Newnes, was per-
sonally popular, and religious differences were much less
accentuated than now — at least, this was the case at
Matlock Bath. The sum of £io was collected.

In 1866, the Wesleyans, who had previously held
services in an upper room at the extreme end of the
Museum Parade, erected a substantial chapel of stone,
with spire, about the centre of the North Parade. The
edifice is roomy and commodious, and the internal fittings
are neat and elegant. It was opened on February 13th,
1867, when two sermons were preached by the Rev. J.
Rattenbury, of London, and ^35 contributed at the
collections. Additional celebration services were con-
ducted on the three following Sundays, and the contri-
butions raised to ^80. The cost of the building was
;£ 1,800. Divine service in accordance with the forms
of the Wesleyan body has since been regularly continued.

The Primitive Methodists have a brick-built chapel in
Scarthin Nick, erected in 1853, accommodating three
hundred worshippers.

There is also a chapel of the United Methodists in
the same locality. This, built in i860, seats two hun-
dred and fifty persons, and is, too, of bricks.

Matlock Bath was first made a separate local govern-
ment district in June, 1865, the governing body being
called a Board of Health, and, later, Local Government
Board. This continued until the passing of the Local
Government Act, 1894 (56 and 57 Vict, c. 73), when
the Board became an Urban District Council of eleven
members, which still exists. By an order of the County

181

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

Council, dated August ioth, 1894, the district became a
separate civil parish for all purposes, as mentioned in an
earlier chapter. By the second clause of the Act of 1865,
establishing the separation, it is provided that " on the
first day of January in every year the Local Board of the
district of Matlock Bath shall pay ^30 towards the rates "
of Matlock.

The boundaries being confined by the river on one
side and the steeps of Masson on the other, it is not
surprising that attempts have been made to enlarge them.
The slopes extending from Starkholmes to the railway
would make admirable building sites, but the locality
remains in the mother parish. A meeting was held at
Starkholmes on the 21st of July, 1882, to consider the
advisability of having a new and direct road between
Starkholmes and Matlock Bath. The suggestion was to
form a road thirty feet wide down through the fields and
over the mouth of the Willersley tunnel. Mr. Arkwright
was to give the land, and the cost of forming the road
to be defrayed by subscription. A resolution that the
road should be made was adopted, and a committee
appointed to investigate the matter, but no road has yet
been constructed. After the passing of the Local Govern-
ment Act, 1894, which gave power to the County Councils
to alter and re-adjust boundaries, the Matlock Bath
Board, on the ioth April of that year, decided to attempt
the extension of their boundaries by petitioning the
County Council to give them Starkholmes, Willersley,
Wood End House, Bow Wood, Matlock Bath and Crom-
ford railway stations, and part of Lea Mills. Two days
later, a vestry meeting was held at Matlock, when reso-
lutions against any alteration of their district's boundaries
were passed by those present. The County Council

182

MATLOCK BATH.

appointed Mr. Alderman Waite and Councillors F. C.
Arkwright and Cooper Drabble to inquire into the matter,
and on the 15th of May those gentlemen sat at the Bath
to hear the arguments for and against the proposed
extension. Mr. F. C. Lymn, Clerk to the Bath Council,
first stated their case, Mr. Miles Sleigh following with the
reply of Matlock, as their clerk. On behalf of Stark-
holmes, two inhabitants objected to and one spoke in
support of the extension. The County Council Committee
suggested an amalgamation of the two districts, and that
the two Boards should meet in conference. The next day,
May 15th, the Matlock Urban Council, at a special
meeting, decided to petition the County Council that no
order should be made on the application of the Bath
Urban Council, but that the two Boards should be amal-
gamated, and the two districts divided into wards. On
the 28th of May the ratepayers and property owners of
Matlock Bath and Scarthin, in public meeting, authorised
the Local Board to take steps to protect the district from
being absorbed into Matlock, the chief reason alleged
being that if the two districts were amalgamated, the
Bath would always be in a minority, and consequently
under the control of the larger community. "Bad
blood" between the two parts of the parish had also
been alleged at the public inquiry, and although this was
ridiculed by Mr. Lawton, the Chairman of the Bath
Council, a strong feeling did doubtless exist between
the two districts. The petition of Matlock for amal-
gamation was heard on the 18th of June, before the
same three gentlemen, members of the Boundaries Com-
mittee of the County Council, as had already sat at
Matlock Bath. Counsel was employed on the part of
Matlock to advocate the union, Mr. Lawton, the Chairman

183

ici ommtMid the County Council
another attempt was made to en
Matlock Bath. This time an i
attained beforehand between the
the result it proved of little val
that Starkholmes, Bow Wood, and
to the Bath in exchange for a port
to be transferred to Matlock. Me
and Cooper Drabble sat on the i
hear statements for and against \
tants of Starkholmes appeared I
strongly objected to the proposed
to Matlock Bath, whereupon the <
Council said his Authority could j
passive support to the scheme, and
In August, 1852, the first steps
a company for the purpose of su;
as an illuminant In the following
allotted, and the Matlock Gas Ligh
formed, its area being the whole p
were fixed near to Matlock Bath n
place was regarded as the ono *•

MATLOCK BATH.

works were erected for the supply of Matlock, and the
whole property subsequently passed into the hands of
Mr. Winson, on whose death the present Matlock Company
was formed, as already related. In 1896, the Matlock
Bath Gas Act was obtained, and the works and appur-
tenances thereby transferred to the local authority.

The Bill empowering the Urban Council of Matlock
Bath and Scaxthin Nick to purchase the gas company's
undertaking led to a severe contest in both Houses of
Parliament, but in accordance with established public
policy, was passed. Among its opponents were the
Matlock Urban Council, whose taxed costs amounted to
;£8oo. Being unable to agree on a price, the Matlock
Bath Council and the Company referred the question to
the arbitration of Sir William Coddington, M.P. for
Blackburn, who had acted as Chairman of the Committee
before whom the Bill went in the House of Commons.
He sat, took evidence, and heard counsel at the New
Bath Hotel, and in his award gave the Company
,£16,726 3s. 9&, being about nineteen years' purchase of
the actual profits, leaving them to pay their own costs.
The shareholders got about ^5 10s. per share, the selling
price not long before having been £10. The cheque
under the award was paid over and a receipt given on
New Year's Day, 1897. This having been done, debate
arose as to the ownership of the outstanding debts,
current accounts for gas, money in the bank, and other
movable assets of the Company. These were claimed
by the Council, but the Company declined to recognise
the claim or give up their books and papers unless the
Council also took over their liabilities. The value of the
remaining assets of the Company was put at £914 16s. 6d.,
and on being asked, Sir W. Coddington stated that

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

he had not included these in his award. Application was
then made to the Court of Queen's Bench to remit the
award to the arbitrator in order that he might add a sum
for these remaining assets, and on March 2nd an order to
that effect was made. On the 6th of May, Sir W. Cod-
dington sat at the Midland Grand Hotel in London, when
the parties and their advocates went before him. In the
result he awarded a further sum of ^807 ns. to the
Company. Beyond the sums awarded as described, ^250
was allowed to the Company in the Act to cover the
expenses of winding up; the costs incurred in fixing the
amount of the purchase price were .£1,308 10s. id.;
stamps on the transfer, ^83 15s. It was estimated
that a capital outlay of ;£8oo on the works was necessary ;
and the expenses incurred in obtaining money on loan to
meet the claims, amounting to ,£265 5s., being included,
a grand total was reached of ,£20,236 9s. iod. To
liquidate this amount, the sum of ,£20,500 was borrowed
from the Cardiff Corporation for fifty years, at three
per cent, per annum, the repayments being arranged to
be made by fifty equal annual instalments covering both
principal and interest But still the Parliamentary costs
of the Council had to be defrayed. To meet these,
amounting to .£3,777 17s. 2d., a further loan to that
amount was contracted. The Company's costs were put
at .£3,003 9s. 8d. Since they came into the hands of
the local authority the works have always paid their
way. In 1901 the works and appliances were extended,
at a cost of ,£2,000.

Previous to 1862, the water supply had been derived
from miscellaneous sources, many of the inhabitants using
that from the tepid springs. In the year named, a
Water Company was formed, and a reservoir constructed

186

MATLOCK BATH.

in Hackney Lane, Darley, at an elevation of 534 ft. above
mean sea level, the highest houses to be supplied standing
at a height of 506 ft By the year 1883, the supply had
become inadequate, and the Local Board sought to
acquire the works for the purpose of extending and
remodelling them. The Company claimed ,£2,759 7 s * *>d.
as the value of their interest; the Board offered
^1,763 os. 8d. On reference to the arbitration of Mr.
William Batten, C.E., he awarded ^1,907 10s. The
Board, for the purchase and extensions, were authorised to
borrow £6,014, repayable in thirty years, and the amount
was obtained at 3 J per cent. The first stone of the
extension was laid on the 28th of November, 1883. The
works were completed in 1886. An auxiliary supply was
obtained from a source known as " Brown's Spring,"
situate near the High Peak Railway terminus, on the
Derby Road, in 1893. It is derived from the gritstone
beds which there lie uppermost, and never fails, giving
150,000 gallons per day. The cost of the construction
of the reservoir at this point was ^1,300. The first
turning on of this supplementary supply on the 18th of
May, 1893, was marked by some ceremony. In the
presence of Mr. F. C. Arkwright, on whose estate the
source is situate, and from whom the right to use it had
been acquired, the members and officials of the Local
Board, and a number of the inhabitants, Mrs. Arkwright
was presented with a silver key,* and then turned on the
supply. The party next proceeded to Matlock Bath,
where the water, having traversed the main, was tapped.
The first draught was tasted by Mrs. Arkwright, and
pronounced very good. Speeches were made, and the

* This key was thus inscribed : — " Matlock Bath Local Board.
Brown's Spring Water Supply. Opening of reservoir by Mrs. F.
C. Arkwright, 18th May, 1893."

187

_ ,,ouu system at Matlncl-
developed, this pi, ire berni; the
distribution of letters and parce.
northward to Bakewell and soutl
Whatstandwell. Sixty years ago
room in Woodland House, and It
mistress. At this time the mai
west were brought from Derby b;
took onward the letters for Mar
bringing and taking the return bi
Derby in the afternoon.

The driver of the coach 2 the la
road, is deserving of a few words tc
oblivion. He was a well-built m
two or three inches, with a bright r
of course, to driving through the
all weathers. He was always w
behaved, being entitled — if capabl
" peppery " at times — to be styled <
the coach, which was known as " T
taken off the road owing to the com
he was employed at Derbv bv J

MATLOCK BATH.

Miss Travis, and under his management the business
done, the staff employed, and the area covered, were all
greatly extended. From one clerk, a single telegraph
messenger, and four postmen, the staff grew to six times
these numbers. The practice which succeeded the
coaching days was to send the letters by road to Derby
every night per mail cart, which brought back the incoming
mails early next morning. Mr. Clark improved on this
by arranging for the midnight express from London,
calling at Derby, to stop here at 3.50 a.m., and set down the
bags. This expedited delivery by the postmen and minis-
tered to the general convenience and satisfaction. The
premises in which the postmaster and staff do their work
have of late years been extended and improved, and all
branches of the postal business are here carried on.
There are at present ten despatches of outgoing letters
and six of parcels, and four deliveries of incoming mails
on every week-day. On Sundays, one morning receipt and
delivery and one evening despatch. Mr. G. Winter,
formerly of Leeds, is the present postmaster.

In past years the subject of boats and boating at
Matlock Bath was a burning one as between the two
adjacent Urban Councils. The Bath is in the anomalous
position of having its boundary line on the near side of
the river, thus leaving the stream in the district of the
Matlock Council. The members of the latter, or some
of them, appear to have been desirous to enforce a juris-
diction over the boats at the Bath. Premonitory
symptoms of an eruption first appeared at a meeting of
the Matlock Council on the 3rd January, 1897, when
certain boating bye-laws which had been framed in
October, 1897, were ordered to be put in force. On
April 2nd, 1898, the Matlock Council granted seven

189

. ..i. * m: i< »ur pt-rsons and ,
nrar a (Iimi^I jii'trifviiiL; well a li
at Matlock Bath, and one life
March, 1899, the Matlock Count
boating licenses being taken out
1 This resolution being ignored at M

against two boatmen in the empk
'* and two in that of Mr. Herjbert '.

by the Matlock Council to prove t
evidence and arguments on these i
y at Matlock Petty Sessions on the

was stated that when written to on
/ out licenses for their boatmen, the

their clerk and legal adviser, Mr.
( that they believed the bye-laws nc

" r Council were ultra vires and void

1 decided not to apply for licenses.

defence in Court The Matlock C

view of the accidents on the river,

i be regulated, and that they were tl

J The Bench upheld this contention, a

'* shillings, together with thirty shillings

MATLOCK BATH.

Mr. Justice Grantham and Mr. Justice Channell. In
addition to the facts, the magistrates set out for decision
the following points of law: — (i) Whether the bye-law
under which the appellant was convicted was ultra vires
and void as being outside the scope of section 172 of
the Public Health Act, 1875 ? (2) whether the said bye-
law affected the boatmen of unlicensed as well as of
licensed boats? (3) whether, on the evidence, the hire
being paid to the Urban District Council of Matlock
Bath and Scarthin Nick, and not to the appellant, there
could, in law, be any "taking charge for hire" by the
appellant? Mr. Justice Grantham held that no power
was given to make regulations for unlicensed boats, and
as the boat for letting which the appellant was con-
victed was not licensed, the appeal must be allowed and
the conviction quashed. Mr. Justice Channell said he
should have been glad if they could have decided the
other way. He was inclined to disagree with his learned
brother, and to uphold the bye-law, but if he did so,
being the junior judge, he would have to withdraw his
judgment, so that it did not make much difference. No
costs were given to either party. The community of
Matlock Bath were much elated at this decision, as had
it gone the other way, their river would have passed
under the regulations of the neighbouring authority, and
their Council would have had to work their own boats
under license from Matlock.

A free public promenade was projected in 1873, tne
plan adopted having been prepared by Mr. Stokes, of
Darley. This promenade, which was situated on the west
bank of the river, was three hundred yards long. It was
constructed independently of the then existing Local
Board, and was paid for by subscriptions specially raised

191

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

for the purpose. It was open and in use in 1874. In
commemoration of the Jubilee year of the reign of her
late Majesty Queen Victoria in 1887, this promenade was
extended over land leased at a rent from Mr. Henry
Cooper. It now runs from near the Midland Hotel at
the railway bridge to the front of the Fountain Baths,
and lies between the road and the river. At the same
time, Mr. F. C. Arkwright, having granted a lease for
thirty years, at a nominal rent, of some beautifully-
wooded and rocky slopes on the opposite bank, a light
iron openwork bridge, of 85 feet span, supported on stone
piers, was erected. This bridge was placed in position
on the 14th of June, 1887. The preparation of the
additional land at the north-eastern end, the erection of
the breast wall along the river side, the laying out of
the additional land east of the river and fencing it, cost
altogether about ^700, of which ^559 was raised by
public subscription. The deeds of conveyance were
formally handed to Mr. Tyack, Chairman of the Local
Board, at a banquet held to celebrate the event at the
New Bath Hotel, on the 10th of January, 1888. The
whole of the grounds were dedicated to the free use of
the public, and have proved a great boon and benefit
Their care and maintenance is entrusted to the local
authority.

In further celebration of the Jubilee of Queen
Victoria — June 22nd, 1887 — beacon fires were lighted at
ten o'clock at night on Masson and the surrounding hills,
and after the lapse of ten minutes thirty-nine fires were
counted from Masson, burning on as many hills near and
distant.

At the beginning of the year 1891 a Brass Band,
composed of local amateurs, trained and conducted by

192

MATLOCK BATH.

Mr. Hilder, a resident photographic artist and musician,
was organized, the instruments and accessories being pro-
vided by public subscription. Under the sonorous title of
the Matlock Bath Military Band, this organization, passing
through various vicissitudes, had an existence of ten years,
coming to an end in 1901. In the course of its career,
it proved, in its kiosk on the Promenade, a source of
strong attraction, and gave pleasure to many thousands

of people, who were delighted by its admirable rendering
of a great variety of musical compositions.

In 1897 the Urban Council became the lessees of the
much more extensive Lovers' Walks, adjoining the
Jubilee Promenade, with the right of boating on the river,
including the principal ferry, which is the head-quarters.
The lease is for twenty-one years, and the rent ^40 per
year. Possession was formally taken by the Council on
the 10th April. A second ferry was established in 1900
at the extreme southern limit of the Lovers' Walks, with
a landing place opposite the New Bath Hotel, and access
to and from the main road.

The Council, with the view of securing the approach to
the central ferry, in January, 1899, took on lease the land
between it and the main road, the rental being ^63 per
annum.

Well-dressings, after the manner of Tissington and
Wirksworth, were instituted here in 1867. Four designs
competed, some of them being very elaborate and pretty.
Prizes were awarded. In 1869, the well-dressings were
repeated, but the day chosen for the display was wet, and
few visitors were attracted. In 1871, the wells were
dressed on the 30th of May, but there were only two
decorations set up, and of these, though the designs were
good the execution of them was indifferent.
13 *93

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

The Pavilion and Gardens, situate on rising ground at
the rear of the site of the original bath on Old Bath Hill,
were projected by a company formed in 1882, with a
capital of ^12,000, raised in the following year to
;£ 18,000, in j£i shares. The proposal was to pur-
chase some 14 acres of land, embracing the Romantic
Rocks and a portion of that contiguous to the Royal
Hotel, together with the premises, other than the hotel,
on the land; and also to erect a commodious pavilion.
This scheme was carried out. The first sod was cut by
Mrs. Peters, whose husband had done more than anyone
else to make the realisation of the scheme possible, on the
14th of July, 1882. The foundation-stone of the Pavilion
was laid on the 5th of May, 1883, by Sir Abraham
Woodiwiss, of Derby, and the structure was opened on
the 2nd of July, 1884, by Lord Edward Cavendish, M.P.
Mr. John Nuttall was the architect, the grounds being
laid out by Mr. F. Speed. Within the area of the grounds
is a cave, formerly known as " The Owlet Hole." Much
of the land was originally covered with well-grown timber,
and formed part of the estate of the late Mr. Walter M.
Shore Evans. The pavilion is a comely and commodious
iron and glass structure, with a frontage of 228 feet. The
slope in front is arranged in terraces, from which extensive
prospects are obtained. Amusements of a varied kind
are provided. The original company was unsuccessful.
At a meeting of shareholders held on the 2nd of February,
1889, a resolution to wind up the company, by reason of
its being unable to meet its liabilities, was passed. It
then appeared that of the total capital of ^18,000 less
than ;£ 1 0,000 was allotted in shares, the sum of ^8,702

194

MATLOCK BATH.

having been raised on mortgage. The winding-up ensued
on the inability of the company to pay interest on the loan,
and the property passed into private hands.

The adjoining Royal Hotel was another unsuccessful
company undertaking. The building, projected in 1866,
was designed for use as a hydropathic establishment,
but the company's capital becoming exhausted while it
was in course of erection, it stood unfinished for a number
of years. In 1878, it was completed and opened as an
hotel, and as such is now carried on. It has a dining-
room 70 feet in length, and 100 bed and associated
chambers, besides a suite of hydropathic baths and a
modem tepid water swimming bath. A second Hydro-
pathic Company was projected in June, 1882, with a
capital of ^30,000, in 6,000 shares of £5 each. It was
proposed to purchase the building and contents for
,£25,000. All the directors, of whom there were nine,
were, with one exception, strangers to the place. This
property also is now in private hands.

There is a Lodge of Freemasons held at the New
Bath Hotel, where its members meet monthly. It was
consecrated in June, 1874, by Bro. Okeover, P.G.M. of
Derbyshire, and is named the Arkwright Lodge.

The Loyal Devonshire Lodge of Oddfellows, No. 2,966,
Manchester Unity, has long been established and holds its
meetings in the club room of the Devonshire Hotel.
It is supported by several of the leading tradesmen, in
addition to men of the working class, has a substantial
sick and funeral fund in hand, and has been of great
service to many, as such organisations for mutual help
generally are.

I9S

HISTORY OF MATLOCK,

A Golf Club was established in May, 1902. The links
(managed by a limited company formed in September of
the same year) are situate between Upper Wood and
Ember. They were formally opened by Mr. Victor
Cavendish, M.P., on the 23rd of May, 1903, the occasion
being marked by a luncheon and congratulatory speech-
making.

The date of the erection of the paper mill (now
absorbed by the English Sewing Cotton Company) adjoin-
ing the Masson cotton spinning mill of Sir R. Arkwright,
is fixed by an indenture of lease of the 18th October, 1768,
by which the lords of the manor granted to George White
(who, by another grant, held the Lumbs Smelting Mills)
liberty to build mills and erect water-wheels upon a piece
of land adjoining the river Derwent called the Masson,
at or near the decoy, for ninety-nine years, at the rent
of £1 per annum. On the 24th of December, 1772, by
which time the mill would have been erected, the lords
made a further grant to George White and Robert Shore,
empowering them to convey water to the paper mill for
twenty-one years. The south weir at Matlock Bath would
then be made.

The old road from Matlock Town to the decoy and the
site of this mill would doubtless be by way of Side Lane
to Starkholmes, then down to the river side where the
arch carrying the Midland Railway now stands. It is
very probable, in fact certain, that there was a ford here,
as at the spot the river has always been, and still is,
shallow. On the other side, the road continued in a line
directly opposite, parallel with the northern boundary wall
of the vicarage grounds, and proceeded in a semi-circular

sweep, with a wood called Key Pasture Wood on the

196

MATLOCK BATH.

right, and a field, long built over, on the left, to the west
lodge of the Heights of Abraham. From this point the
road still remains, proceeding by the back of Guilderoy
House to the east lodge of the Heights, thence to and
through Upperwood, afterwards descending gradually till
it ends just below a cluster of cottages known as the
Wapping, at a point directly opposite the south weir.

The Hotel at the foot of the hill leading to the Heights
of Abraham, in the centre of Matlock Bath, now owned
and conducted by Mr. Sidney F. Wheatcroft, is but a
fragment of the much greater and more extensive range
of buildings once known by that name. Originally it
included all the connected houses abutting upon it on the
south. The house about the centre of the South Parade
(originally the Hotel Parade), now for many years past
occupied as a photographer's shop and residence, had on
the first floor a spacious room 36 feet by 21 feet 6 inches,
with a large bay window, that still remains. The site of
this extensive range of buildings, together with adjoining
land, the upper end of which abutted upon Coal Pit Rake
Mine (Devonshire Cavern), had been acquired in January,
1680, by George Wragg, who held the Old Bath. It
remained with him and his heirs till 1730, when it was
mortgaged for ^307. In 1752, it was sold to Thomas
Brentnall, of Derby, for .£500. After passing through
several other hands, it was bought, in April, 1797, by
George Vemon, of Hilderstone Hall, Stone, Staffordshire,
for ;£ 1,900, and it was in his time that the hotel was
erected. In 1803, Mr. Vernon borrowed ^4,860 on
security of his Matlock Bath property, presumably land
and buildings, and in 1805 sold it outright

197

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

The room over the photographer's shop was the draw-
ing-room of the hotel, which does not appear to have had
a long or successful career. The particular house re-
ferred to was purchased shortly after 1810 by Messrs.
Brown & Son, of Derby, makers of spar and marble
ornaments and mineralogists. Some time afterwards
Mr. Mawe became a partner, a shop was opened in London,
and the business received a considerable stimulus. Mr.
Mawe was an able man, and gave Lessons on
Mineralogy, afterwards published in book form. He
also wrote and published a book on precious stones, which
bears evidences of considerable travel and research.
Mr. Mawe dying in 1829, the business devolved to his
widow, for whom Mr. Vallance (afterwards a museum pro-
prietor next door) became manager, and so continued
for two years. In 1829, Mr. Wm. Adam was brought from
Cheltenham to conduct the business, of which he ultimately
became the owner. He was a man of great volubility and,
as his Gem of the Peak shows, pretentiousness, but his
knowledge of geology, of which he talked much, and
undertook in later life to lecture on, was superficial. His
guide book, first issued as little more than a large
pamphlet, passed through many editions, and finally
assumed the proportions of a substantial illustrated
volume, known as The Gem of the Peak. This edition was
edited by John Allen, noticed elsewhere.

On Sunday, the 17 th of March, 18 16, a slight shock of
earthquake was experienced at Matlock Bath, and an
inhabitant writing afterwards to a Derby newspaper and
describing what happened, said : " At a quarter before one
o'clock p.m., I felt it shake me in my chair sensibly, and

198

MATLOCK BATH.

a table by my side was moved several times. It was
accompanied by a considerable noise, like a gust of wind.
I understand several of the congregation felt it in the
church at Matlock; and in several other places in this
neighbourhood it was very sensibly perceived. It seemed
to me to continue about eight or ten seconds." This
earthquake was also felt in houses in Derby, and in All
Saints' and St. Peter's churches. In the last-named it
caused plaster to fall from the roof to the floor in the
body of the church. It was also felt at Shipley Hall,
and was stated to have extended twenty miles east and
west of Derby. Another earthquake shock, felt through
the county and parts of those adjoining, affected this
place and adjoining parishes on the 24th of March, 1903.

There was a Botanic Garden at Matlock Bath in 1830.
The name of Darwin has been much in the mouth of the
past generation, as it was in that of the generation existing
at the end of the eighteenth and beginning of the nine-
teenth centuries, especially at and about Matlock. Dr.
Erasmus Darwin, the ancestor of the late philosopher and
naturalist, Charles Darwin, wrote a famous poem entitled
TJie Botanic Garden, wherein he enshrined many of the
current scientific ideas of his day, and under the poetical
phrase of " The Loves of the Plants," depicted what was
known — and evidently a good deal was known— -of the
forms, characteristics, and modes of fertilisation of
plants. He wrote in verse which was stately, sonorous,
and polished, somewhat in the style of Pope, and had a
great vogue. Such an impression did it make that it led
to the formation at Matlock Bath of a Botanic Garden,
which attracted a good deal of the attention of Dr. Dar-
win, who lived in the county. This garden occupied

199

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

what was afterwards an orchard on the west of the lane
at the rear of the Temple Hotel, and was open to the
public. The garden was much resorted to for the sake of
the fruit and the very numerous specimens of indigenous
plants and flowers — seven hundred varieties, says Glover —
with which it abounded. In the early part of the last
century the road to the Devonshire Cavern lay through
this garden, the proprietor of which was Mr. E. Bown.

The centenary of Sunday Schools was celebrated by
700 scholars of the Rural Deanery of Ashover assembling
at Matlock Bath, on the 9th of July, 1880. Those from a
distance were met at the railway station by the Matlock
Prize Brass Band, and all attended a short service at the
church. Later, the children went in procession to and
crossed the river, and were then taken into a field, where
they indulged in various amusements and games.

We append here the pedigree of the Leacroft family,
which has been settled in the parish for upwards of a
century, and still has representatives here.

200

the lane
> to the
:• «ake of
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JSlover -

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trough
town,
ted by
!°*bling
from a

Utlock
« the
*> and
where

S*miiy,
l of a

CHAPTER VIII.

MATLOCK BATH.

The Thermal Waters— Introductory— Early History— Old
Bath— Other Springs and Baths— Medicinal Properties
—Analysis — Like Clifton (Bristol) Waters— Virtues
of Matlock Bath Waters — How and When Taken—
Advantages of Matlock Bath as a Visitors' Resort.

SITUATED in so charmingly romantic and beautiful
a locality, and possessing in as full a measure as
ever the remarkable medicinal properties and
virtues which first served to make them famous, it is
more than a little surprising that the thermal waters of
Matlock Bath should have fallen even into partial disuse.
There are, however, a number of. causes which fully
account for this state of things; and perhaps the most
prominent factor amongst these is the strong competition
which has arisen between one watering-place and another
during the past century for the patronage of the public.
Another of the causes which have operated to retard the
progress in favour of the Matlock waters was the fact
that for a long time no adequate provision existed for the
convenience of the ordinary public in the matter of baths
and facilities for drinking the waters. It is quite true that
" The New Bath " has always, from the date of the dis-
covery of the spring by which it is supplied, been available

201

MATLOCK BATH.

for those who frequented the hotel which stands above
it "The Old Bath" has been demolished, but only a
brief interval elapsed after that event before a new and
commodious structure was erected on a site near to that
on which its predecessor stood, and adjoining the present
Royal Hotel. For a long time, however, the provision
made for the accommodation of the general body of
visitors to, and inhabitants of, this lovely and romantic
locality was entirely inadequate. But now the commodious
new swimming bath, erected on the site locally known as
"The Fountain," and opened to the public on the 2nd
of March, 1883, with its accompanying facilities for hot
baths, is equal to all requirements outside the two leading
hotels. Beyond this, provision has been made for those
who may desire to drink the waters.

The first spring to attract attention was that which now
supplies the bath at the Royal Hotel, and which formerly
supplied and led to the erection of " The Old Bath " and
Hotel. The date of its utilisation was the year 1698.
At that time the approach to Matlock Bath was anything
but easy or inviting. Fourteen years later, however, as we
learn from " Bray's Tour," a remarkable and flattering
change had taken place.

The bath first made to render the Old Bath spring
capable of being used by those who desired it was of
wood lined with lead. This arrangement, however, did not
last long, for the Magna Britannia goes on to state
that "in process of time the accommodations were im-
proved, a stone bath was constructed, two new springs
were discovered, new baths formed, lodging-houses erected,
and carriage roads made." De Foe gives some further

202

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

particulars of this stone bath. Speaking of the springs
he says: — "One of these is secured by a stone wall on
every side, by which the water is brought to rise to a due
height ; and if it is too high there is a sluice to let it out
as low as you please. It has a house built over it and
room within the building to walk round the bath, and so
go by steps gradually into it. The water is but just milk
warm, so that it is no less pleasant to go into than
sanative." The Lysonses give the dimensions of this bath
as " 17 feet high, 33 feet long, and 20 feet wide," and add,
" Over the bath is a news and reading room of the same
length." The bath thus minutely described exists no
longer.

This original " Old Bath " was paved and built by the
Rev. Joseph Feme, rector of Matlock; Mr. Benjamin
Hayward, of Senior Field, Cromford; Mr. Adam Wolley,
of Allen Hill ; and Mr. George Wragg, of Matlock, at their
own expense, in or about the year 1696, and called
Wolley's well, there having been (as mentioned earlier) a
bathing place which had long before been cut out of the
marl rock by the Wolleys of Riber, who were principal
owners or sharers of the manor.* According to Pilkington
the bath was afterwards put into the hands of Wragg, who,
to confirm his claim and title, took a lease of it from the
several lords of the manor for 99 years, paying them a fine
of ^150 and the yearly rent of sixpence each. He then
built a few small rooms adjoining to the bath, which it is
said were but a poor convenience to strangers. The lease
and property of Wragg were afterwards purchased by
Messrs. Smith and Pennell, of Nottingham, for nearly
;£i,ooo. These gentlemen erected two large commodious

•Add. MSS. (Wolley's), 6667, f. 31&

203

MATLOCK BATH

buildings, with stables and other conveniences, and made
a coach road to Matlock Bridge. In a short time after-
wards this road was carried down the valley towards
Cromford, and a communication was thus opened with the
southern part of the county.

Some years later another spring was discovered at the
distance of about a quarter of a mile from the old one.
In this situation, likewise, a bath was formed and the new
Bath Hotel erected for the accommodation of those who
might resort there.

At a still later period a third spring was met with 300
or 400 yards east of that which was first noticed, but,
being of a colder temperature than either of the others,
was neglected. It being, however, imagined that the
water flowing from it was mixed with another spring
several attempts were then made to separate them from
each other, and in the summer of 1786 the means employed
for this purpose were attended with the desired success.
By driving a level into the hill, the point where the two
sorts of water mixed was found, and the warmer conveyed
by a proper channel into the bath which was built.

In consequence of the last-named bath being, as has
been already noted, the only one at all times available
for the use of the public, it will be desirable to give some
further details in regard to it. But, first, as to the dimen-
sions of the Bath which originally stood on this site. The
old Fountain Bath, which was demolished in 1881, was
39 feet long by 18 feet wide. It had a low-pitched arched
roof in which were two circular openings, some two feet
in diameter, for light and air, to which were fitted glazed
dome-shaped movable frames, as covers. The uniform

depth of water was but four feet, the inlet being at the

204

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

northern and the outlet sluice at the opposite end. There
was a platform at the southern end only, from the left-
hand corner of which a narrow flight of steps led down
to the floor of the bath. From this it will be gathered
that the former Fountain Bath was small, close, and
inconvenient. The new one is a great contrast to this.
It is spacious, well-planned, and particularly light and
airy. Its dimensions are as follow: — Length over all,
62 ft 8 in.; width, 35 ft. 5 in., exclusive of the space
occupied by a row of commodious dressing boxes on the
eastern side; height from the floor of the bath to the
centre of the elegant iron and wood roof, 45 feet; ditto
from the platform — which extends round the four sides
— 37 ft-> inside dimensions of the bath proper, 50 ft.
by 22 ft.; contents, when the water stands at 6 ft. and
4 ft. high at the respective ends, 33,687 gallons. The
highest possible depth of water ranges from 8 ft. at one
end of the bath to 6 ft. at the other; the depth usually
maintained is that of 6 ft at the deeper and 4 ft. at
the shallower end, but it can be raised or lowered at very
short notice. The supply pipe through which the tepid
stream flows into the bath is 6 inches in diameter, and com-
municates directly with the level or culvert which brings
down this health-giving spring from the heart of the great
mountain of Masson that gives it birth.

It must not be omitted to mention that there are also
at the " Fountain " several hot baths, in which the advan-
tages of the waters can be availed of at as high a
temperature as may be desired. These are calculated to
meet the requirements of every variety of case and the
needs of any applicant for their use.

205

MATLOCK BATH.

The Old Bath having been demolished, in its place
there has been erected a new and modern bath, in what
were the Old Bath Gardens, and what are now the
grounds attached to the Royal Hotel, which has been placed
about midway between the site of the old Bath Hotel and
Matlock Bath Church. This new bath has a length of 40 ft.,
a width of 22 ft., and a height of 15 ft. The water stands
at a depth of 4 ft. 9 in. at the deeper, and 4 ft. 6 in. at
the shallower end. There are six large dressing-rooms;
there is a constant and copious supply of water direct
from the breast of the adjacent hill, it being estimated that
10,000 gallons of water pass through the bath every hour.
The temperature is uniformly maintained at 68 degrees.

The " New Bath " is situate within the area of the
Hotel to which it has given its name. This hotel is
finely placed, has been thoroughly modernised, is luxuri-
ously furnished, and admirably managed. The bath,
however, is very old-fashioned. It is built of heavy
masonry, with a low arched roof, almost in the founda-
tions of the western wing; but although it has all the
advantages of constant current, even temperature, and
curative properties to be found elsewhere, it is not much
used by visitors.

To the observer standing over the inlet to either of the
baths it is at once apparent that the water is not an
ordinary fluid, but is highly charged with gas or gases,
the nature of which it is to be regretted has never been
exactly ascertained. The water, which is beautifully clear
and pure, is accompanied into the baths by thousands
of air bubbles, denoting the presence of the gas or gases
just referred to, and as these are given off they cause a

206

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

rustling sound very much like that emitted by newly-opened
bottled mineral waters, though much more pronounced
and intense. Bubbles in great numbers are again created
when any bather plunges into the water; and all who
avail themselves of the use of either of the several baths
agree in testifying to the exhilarating and invigorating
properties they possess.

Coming to speak in detail of the properties of the
Matlock Bath Medicinal Springs, the first point to be
noticed is their temperature. This, from the time of
their discovery, two centuries ago, until now, has uniformly
stood at, or near, 68 deg. Fahrenheit; in fact, this is
one of the very few thermal waters which our country
possesses, and the value of which it is not perhaps too
much to say can hardly be over-esteemed.

In days gone by, when scientific knowledge was in its

infancy as compared with its present development, various

hypotheses were set up in order to account for the

phenomenal warmth of the English hot springs. Some

of the old writers accounted for the high temperature

of thermal springs by attributing it to the fact that the

waters in their course passed through beds of iron pyrites,

which decomposed or became heated on being brought

into contact with water, and consequently raised the

temperature of the stream as it made its way over them.

But there can be little in this, if it be true, as an old

writer* affirms that waters are known which run through

the same kind of substance and yet are absolutely cold.

" Some naturalists," the same author states, " have imagined that
a mixture of iron and sulphur is the cause of heat in all warm
springs, because it is known by experiment that iron filings and

* Hutchinson's Romantic Beauties of Matlock, i9io.
207

MATLOCK BATH.

sulphur, made into a mass with water, will in a few hours grow
exceedingly warm, and in time emit sulphurous flames. But in
contradiction to this opinion, it is proved that the waters of Bath
contain only a small portion of steel and nothing of sulphur ; those
of Aix-la-Chapelle sulphur, but not steel ; and yet both are warm.
But what most materially questions all conjecture on this head, or
more properly overturns this hypothesis at once, is the Geronsterre
water, which, though considerably impregnated with iron and sul-
phur, is always remarkably cold."

We think but lightly of the theory involving the disso-
lution of pyrites, not only because of the considerations
above set forth, though these are by no means devoid of
value; but because it assumes an enormous and
inexhaustible supply of the metal in question, and still
more for the reason that analysis has not revealed the
presence of any appreciable amount of iron in the water.

It is not intended to traverse more of the speculations
of early authors on this topic, and as an illustration of
how fruitless such a task might probably prove, the follow-
ing rather amusing paragraph from the work already
referred to, by Mr. Hutchinson, will show. —

" The learned Dr. Alexander Hunter, after examining the different
publications of ancient and modern philosophers, and from every
geological and chemical experiment he was enabled to make —
and his knowledge in that respect was not trifling — has ingenu-
ously admitted that he could not discover what occasions this
heat in warm waters,"

It is scarcely to be supposed that anyone else will ever

11 discover " the causes of the heat of the English thermal

springs; but at the same time a cause there must be,

and though it be difficult of demonstration, and possibly

may never be demonstrated with precision, it is not so

difficult to conceive what that cause may be, and the

present writer ventures with some diffidence to put forward

208

MATLOCK BATH.

his own conception of it. The geological strata of the

locality disclose considerable evidences of volcanic action

in the past Centuries, even ages, have passed since

there was any eruption ; but, at the same time, the causes

of volcanic action, or some of them, may be still in

existence in a modified form at a greater or less depth

in the earth. Hence, it may well be that a permanent

source of heat may remain, and that water passing over

it may be raised above the normal temperature prior

to issuing from the earth. As to details of the way in

which the operation is effected, the substance of the

theory of Darwin as summarised in an essay by the late

Dr. Webb, of Wirksworth, may be quoted : —

"According to Darwin, the temperature of the Matlock Bath
thermal waters, in particular, is to be attributed ' to the internal heat
of the earth,' or what he calls, ' subterranean fires,' which he believes
vapourise these waters, which become again condensed before they
issue forth in the shape of springs, and in this process of conden-
sation they take up and dissolve the salts which they hold in
solution, and become at the same time impregnated with the gases
disengaged by chemical change during their progress outwards."

It did not need Dr. Percival to inform those who have
ever drunk of the Matlock water that it is " grateful to the
palate and of an agreeable warmth." The doctor went
on to say, however, something of its properties. He told
us, a little quaintly, that "it exhibits no marks of any
mineral spirit, either by its taste, sparkling appearance,
or with syrup of violets. It is very slightly impregnated
with selenite or other earthy salts, and weighs only four
grains heavier in a pint than distilled water."

From Dr. Pearson we learn that " it has been reported

to contain in a gallon of water 40 grains of sediment,

which is called nitre, alkaline earth, and sea salt," and

he observed himself that " it is impregnated with rather
14 209

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

more fixed air than Buxton water, and that a pint weighs
eight grains heavier than distilled water." As to the
specific gravity or weight of the water, it will be noticed
there is a discrepancy between the statements of these
two gentlemen. It is almost needless to observe that
one manipulator with one pint measure, in dealing with
water, might well turn out so small a quantity as four
grains more or less than another manipulator with a
different pint measure.

Granville, in his work on The Spas of England, says
that no regular quantitative analysis of the Matlock Bath
thermal waters had been made, and the only apology for
an analysis was one by Sir Charles Scudamore, published
in Turner's Chemistry, many years ago. He found in
these waters: —

i. — Free carbonic acid.

2. — Muriates and sulphates of magnesia, lime, and soda, in minute
quantities, not yet ascertained.

Temperature, 68 deg. ; specific gravity, 1003.

Since Granville's time matters have greatly improved
in regard to a systematic analysis of the waters, and a
copy of one made some years ago by Dr. Dupr€, F.R.S.,
of a sample taken from the Fountain Bath Spring,
is here appended : —

Chloride of sodium
Sulphate of magnesium
(Containing magnesium)
Sulphate of calcium ...
Carbonate of calcium ...
Silica

Organic matter — traces of alumina —
minute traces of potassium, lithium,
and strontium and loss

Total dry residue as found by direct

estimation

2IO

Grains per

Parts in

Gallons.

1 ,000,000.

457

6530

9-73

139-00

(1946)

(2780)

2*04

2914

14-68

209-71

071

10*14

3173

1-03

3276

453*9

M7»
468-00

MATLOCK BATH.

Dr. Dupre* adds: —

" Calculating the sulphate of magnesium present as ordinary
crystallised Epsom salts, it would come to almost exactly twenty
grains per gallon. The water contains minute traces of potassium,
lithium, and strontium, just detectable by the spectroscope. It is
free from iodine and bromine, and contains neither nitric nor phos-
phoric acid. The water is bright and colourless, and pure as far
as organic matter is concerned."

In connection with this branch of the subject, another

authority is the celebrated Dr. Ure. In speaking of the

nature of mineral waters, Dr. Ure says : —

" The topography of the place where these waters rise is the first
thing to be considered. By examining the ooze formed by them,
and the earth or stones through which they are strained or filtered,
some judgment may be formed of their contents. In filtering
through the earth and meandering on its surface they take with them
particles of various kinds, which their extreme retention renders
capable of being suspended in the fluid that serves for their vehicle.
Hence, we shall sometimes find in these waters silicious, calcareous,
or argillaceous earth; and at other times, though less frequently,
sulphur, magnesian earth, or, from the decomposition of carbonated
iron, ochre."

Hence, the doctor deduces that Matlock water contains
lime in solution, but in no great proportion, he having
found in the quantity submitted to analysis (58,390 grs.)
only so small an amount as could be described by the
word " trace."

In spite of this opinion, however, it may be taken to
be quite well established that there is a considerable
amount of lime in solution in the thermal springs of
Matlock Bath. Dr. Pearson, as above shown, stated that
a gallon was reported to contain 40 grains of sediment,
and Dr. Dupr6's analysis shows that he proved it actually
to contain 32 J grains of dry residue per gallon. This
sediment is reduced to a tangible, solid, and concrete

211

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

form in what are called the " petrifying wells," of which
there are several in the place.

There seems to be but one other spring in England
which is exactly on all fours with these Matlock Bath
waters, and that is the well at Clifton, Bristol. This
similarity of composition and properties has been vouched
for by several of the old medical writers. Thus, Dr.
Percival observes that Bristol and Matlock Bath waters
appear to resemble each other both in their chemical and
medicinal qualities. Dr. Armstrong says : — " I have taken
great pains to examine particularly into the properties
of the Matlock springs, and may with truth assert that
they are of the same nature with the Bristol water, equal
In some cases and preferable in many." Dr. Elliott, who
published An Account of the Nature and Medicinal Virtues
of the Principal Mineral Waters of Great Britain and
Ireland, in 1781, is of a similar opinion, and he is one
of the few writers on the subject who have left behind
them any record of the plan on which a systematic drink-
ing of the waters should be carried out so as to be of
the greatest benefit to the patient

Having said this much of the composition of the
Matlock Bath waters, the next topic is that of their virtues.
On this head it may be remarked that if their virtues are
but half those ascribed to them in past times by com-
petent medical men desirous to test their value and prove
their efficacy, their influence in overcoming diseased
conditions and winning back the blessing of health to
the frame of the invalid is great. Nor have we any reason
to doubt that these waters still possess all their old virtue,
efficacy, and charm because they have fallen into partial

212

MATLOCK BATH.

disuse, and have ceased to be quite as fashionable as
of yore. When, however, their properties are as well
known to the present generation of mankind as they were
in the century and a half succeeding their discovery to
those who have gone before, there is no reason to fear
but that they will become as famous and as fashionable
as ever.

The old race of medical men seems to have had far
more faith and confidence in a remedy of this kind, which
Nature has provided, curiously compounded, ready for
use, than in the familiar pills and potions which are now
in more common use. The number of works put forth
by medical men in former days on the subject of the
thermal medicinal springs of Matlock — and other places
also — was very considerable. In illustration of this
statement a few names of those who wrote on the subject,
in addition to the five — Dr. Percival, Dr. Pearson, Dr.
Armstrong, Dr. Hunter, and Dr. Elliott — already men-
tioned, may be recorded. These were Dr. Ronald Munro,
Dr. Short, Dr. Rutty, Dr. Saunders, Dr. Medley, and no
doubt many more.

From the admirable guide book of the Rev. R. Ward,
published in 1814, we learn that in those days Dr.
Goodwin, of Wirksworth, paid regular visits to Matlock
Bath, for the purpose of advising those who at that time
flocked to the place for the benefit of the waters. Later,
as the fame of the thermal springs was spread, and more
and more people— or, as the old writers put it, " company "
— visited them, there were competent medical men always
on the spot Medical men there are now, but not one
who makes treatment by drinking the waters and bathing

213

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

a icerxlrr- Orai-3e ICaiZock competent writers are
«pri=ip=£ ip. wbc axe coce more setting forth the advan-
tages :c :bese waiers an*i treatment by them. In 1886,
there agprarei in the Xtwctitwtk Ccntmry* one of the
Vi^r =ctr±lT mx»s» an article, written by Dr. J.
3 n_j g y Ye-:. :c * Fng r ~.sh and Foreign Spas," in which
the Txl-e re tie Miilzck springs is specially referred to
ami Nearly set fcrth- The lare Dr. Webb, of Wirksworth,
a prict:t::^er cf zood status and attainments, who knew
the place ami the waters thoroughly, also wrote of them
in terms cf high appreciation; and there cannot be the
slightest doubt but that by the members of the medical
profession who hare become best acquainted with the
thermal springs of Matlock Bath their value is estimated
most highly.

Some will naturally ask, What are the waters good
for? What have they done? What will they cure? and
similar questions. An answer to these inquiries will now
be attempted, not by drawing upon any preconceived
ideas, but by quoting the opinions and statements of some
of the older writers to whom reference has already been
made, and to these will be added the conclusion arrived
at by the authors of more recent essays on the subject

Dr. Percival, who has been already quoted in another
connection, held these waters to be most useful " in hectic
cases, tuematosis (blood formation), the diabetes, and
other disorders in which the circulation of the blood is
quick and irregular."

Dr. Francis Armstrong, to whom also allusion has been
previously made, and who was a physician practising at

214

MATLOCK BATH.

Uppingham, in the county of Rutland, recorded at length

the case of a lady — a patient of his — who was suffering

from a confirmed phthisis pulmonalis. He ordered her

to proceed to Matlock Bath, although, to quote his own

words, she was "in such a situation that I must own I

never expected to see her return." " Those who saw her

on her arrival cried out/' so the candid doctor informs us,

"'What a cruel physician to send the lady so far from

home to die ! ' " He adds, however, in his own defence,

"I saw the lady but three days before she left home,

otherwise she would have visited Matlock sooner." The

result of her visit was that, " In a fortnight she was able

to dine in public; in six weeks was perfectly recovered,

having got rid of her cough, and being greatly increased

in her muscular habit. I visited her on her return," the

doctor adds, "and had I not been perfectly acquainted

with her before I should not have known her. She has

continued well ever since." And, further, "I have, in

the course of seven years, sent a great number of patients

to Matlock, and in cases where medicine had not the least

prospect of being serviceable, all of whom have had

perfect and lasting cures; and I may with truth declare

I have not failed in one instance."

Hutchinson, the author to whom reference has been

made, remarks : —

" It is happy for mankind that there is no doubt respecting the
medical virtues of these waters, and that many have been the
suffering objects who have had to bless Providence, which in its
herbs, its fruits, its flowers, and in its waters, has given a bounteous
remedy for every disorder."

On a subsequent page he states that —

" In bilious complaints, obstructions, scrofula, gravel, and all
calcareous disorders, Matlock Bath has been found of great service."

21*

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

The following is from the manual by the Rev. R.
Ward:—

"Dr. Saunders, in his excellent Treatise on Mineral Waters,
observes that Matlock water may be employed in all those cases
wherein a pure diluent drink is advisable, but it is principally used
as a tepid bath, or, at least, one which comes to the extreme limits
of a cold bath. On this account it produces but little shock on
immersion, and is therefore peculiarly fitted for those delicate and
languid habits that cannot exert sufficient reaction to overcome the
effects of the ordinary cold bath, and on which the, benefits it pro-
duces chiefly depend. Matlock water forms a good intermediate
between Bath or Buxton and the sea, and may be employed in pre-
paring the invalid for the latter."

Dr. Granville considered "Matlock water, drunk freely
as a common beverage through the day, to be likely
to prove highly beneficial in dyspeptic and nephritic
affections."

" Long experience," observed a gentleman for some
years resident at Bath, " assigns to them highly restorative,
strengthening and curative powers, especially in pulmonary
cases and nervous disorders."

Evidence has been already quoted in proof of the
similarity of the Matlock waters with those of Clifton,
near Bristol, and the following passage written in reference
to the latter place will prove equally applicable to Matlock
Bath. The water is " incrassating, astringent, cooling,
and successfully prescribed in inflammations, hectics,
coughs, haemorrhages, hemoptoe, dysentery," etc. " Inter-
nally it strengthens the stomach, promotes appetite, assists
digestion, and corrects acrimony."

A paper, half jocular, half serious, but full of wisdom,
was written some years ago by the late Dr. Adam, an
old inhabitant of Matlock Bath, and published by him in

216

MATLOCK BATH.

a local paper. He addressed himself to " those patients
anxiously and wisely in pursuit of health, who have been
under the care of a kind and skilled practitioner, who
having done all that medical art can do, has recommended
a change of air." To this class, " whether it be wife,
father, mother, sister, who has laboured or is labouring
under bronchial affections, bronchial irritation, pleuro-
pneumonia affections, tuberculosis, or what is commonly
called consumption," he says, "try a winter residence at
Matlock Bath : the mild, soft, humid, sheltered, calm air
will suit you. Don't bathe, but drink the warm running
water with milk or cream, and sometimes add the chaly-
beate, which issues at the north end of the valley, and
we think they will do you good. You will find a sheltered
and calm climate not unlike Bagn&res de Bigorre, in the
South of France."

This good-natured doctor also had something to say
to "those anxious mothers — and Great Britain is full of
them — with youthful families, who are fearful about
Charley, Frank, Ned, or Harry; or it may be Miss
Henrietta, Margaret, Eveline, and Fanny." And what he
had to say to them was this : —

" If paterfamilias can afford, and when he can, he will order
mamma and the family to Matlock Bath, and he will act wisely in
doing so. Let them all bathe and wash in the natural warm, cal-
careous waters daily, be rubbed dry, drink the water with milk or
cream, adding the chalybeate, and exercise in the open air with a
donkey ride at times ; and Charley, in addition to these, is to have
beef tea and a cracker. The quiet, mild, and sheltered air of the
Bath will do them all good — this class particularly — in the summer
and autumn months, but by being low and well protected it will do
well for the winter months. Then as to the nervous, the restless,
the irritable, having harsh, dry, shrivelled skins ; who are emaciated,

217

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

dyspeptic, and have a number of discomforts about their stomachs
. . . they too should come, and bathe daily or every other day,
swim about in the bath for five or ten minutes, dress quickly, wear
flannel next the skin, take exercise on foot or on horseback, and
follow this up for three or four weeks. It will render them great
service bodily and mentally."

Then the late Dr. Webb, long in practice at Wirksworth,
in an admirable article, published in The Provincial
Medical Journal for April, 1886, wrote. —

" It is very difficult to explain the msdus operandi of these waters,
or indeed of thermal waters generally, in the treatment of chronic
rheumatism and other long-standing affections ; but my own belief is
that whatever virtue the Matlock waters have in this respect is
mainly due to the stimulation of the skin by the carbonic acid and
other gases which are held in solution ; whilst the drinking of from
four to six tumblers of the water a day, notwithstanding the small
quantity of magnesium sulphate contained in it, is often attended
with brisk purgation. In gout, especially of a chronic character, and
in rheumatic complaints, bathing in the warm water of Matlock Bath
is of signal benefit ; and patients come year after year who have
once obtained relief by this means. The intemperate, the nervous,
and the hysterical, are benefited at Matlock Bath by employing them-
selves and taking vigorous exercise amidst the lovely scenery with
which the district abounds. The bathing and the water-drinking (if
they do nothing else) give to them some regular and systematic work
to do, which is a matter of great importance in the management of
these cases.

" There is no pretence for assuming any water cure system, or
indeed, any system which professes it, to afford a panacea for ' all the
ills to which flesh is heir ' ; but whether it be from the climate of
Matlock and its district, the bathing and the water drinking, the
relaxation from the cares and anxieties of business, or all these
tilings combined, invalids afflicted by chronic or functional disease
axe largely benefited by a temporary sojourn in this romantic part
of Derbyshire."

That the waters have not lost their virtue in any
way is proved by the most recent testimonies of those who

218

MATLOCK BATH.

have availed themselves of them. Recent visitors have

passed such judgments as the following : —

" I have pleasure in stating that I have received much benefit from
the baths. I was quite crippled when I came here and have now
recovered my former strength."

This was the testimony of a lady whose name was
appended to her entry in the visitors' book at the Fountain
Baths. Several others say they have derived much benefit
from the baths, and indeed this is the general verdict.

As to the times and seasons for bathing, and the rules
to be observed for drinking these waters, it is always, in
the absence of direct medical advice, which it is highly
desirable to obtain, necessary to enter upon their use
with prudence and caution. No very precise directions
have been left on this point by former writers; but there
are two formulae which shall be quoted. The first, which
is placed on record by Hutchinson, applies to both bathing
and drinking, and runs as follows : —

"In consumptions, indigestions, and nervous complaints, though
they should be more generally drunk than used as a bath in these
disorders, otherwise they will be too relaxing, bathing may certainly
be allowed for a few times at first, but the patient must be careful
not to stay above four or five minutes in the bath, and indeed this
is an observation that will apply to many complaints for the relief
of which Matlock is noted. A similar caution ought to be given
against drinking too much of the water on first coming ; one pint in
the course of the morning for the first week will be sufficient ; the
quantity may afterwards safely be increased, according as it agrees
with the constitution."

Then we have Dr. John Elliott's record of the practice
pursued* : —

" The usual method of drinking the water is a glass or two before
breakfast, and about five in the afternoon. The next day three

* An Account of the Medicinal Virtues of the Principal Mineral
Waters of Great Britain and Ireland,

219

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

glasses before breakfast, and as many in the afternoon ; and this is
to be continued during the patient's stay at the wells. A quarter or
half-an-hour is allowed between each glass."

This was written in reference to Clifton; but the same
author states of the Matlock Bath water that " its virtues
are similar to those of Bristol (Clifton)."

That which Mr. A. Jewitt wrote and published in his
intelligent Matlock Companion in 1835, * s st ^ applicable,
namely, that besides its waters Matlock Bath does possess
advantages, and those superior ones, to the more populous
watering-places. The invalid is sure of respiring a pure
atmosphere, and he may be (on the vast majority of days) as
quiet and secluded as he pleases; the artist can never
be at a loss for subjects on which to employ his pencil;
the geologist and mineralogist cannot fail of finding, in
profusion, objects for the improvement of science; the
botanist may employ himself in collecting specimens of
plants, rare in most other situations, but here found in
abundance; and the visitor who wishes only to pass a
little time in retirement from the bustle and turmoil
attendant on business can find ample recreation in excur-
sions to the scenes of interest, of beauty, of antiquity,
or of grandeur, with which the neighbourhood abounds.

220

CHAPTER IX.

MATLOCK BANK.

Thb Popularity of thb Matlock Bath Waters Wanes— The
Bank begins to Wax — Ralph Davis, Hydropathist—
Advent of John Smbdlby— His " Establishment " Founded
—Other Early Hydros. — The Bank's State and
Antecedents— Early Progress — "Smedlby's" and its
Patients— Extensions — John Smbdlby Overtaxed— Dr.
W. B. Hunter introduced— The Smbdlby Company-
Situation of the Establishment— The Bank Develops—
No Intoxicants— Christmas Banquet— John Smedlby's
Biography — Religious Characteristics — Chapels— Free
Hospital at Lea— Treatment of his Workpeople— Mills
and their Extension— Unconvbntionality— Philanthropy
—Death and Burial— Memorials— Public Elementary
Education— British School — School Board Vetoed— All
Saints' Schools and Church — Vicar— Parsonage— Parish
Assigned— Roman Catholic Church— Wesley an, Primitive
Methodist, and Congregational Chapels — Convalescent
Home — Cable Tramway— Social Club — School Board
Formed— Schools Built— Recreation Ground and Victoria
Hall.

WITH the introduction of the railway Matlock
Bath as a resort for health-seekers of the
highest class began to decline, and within a
few years the glories of former days had so far departed
that the contents of the Old Bath Hotel were dispersed
at auction, and the place was closed until 1866. The
new hydropathic establishment (now the Royal Hotel) was
projected when it was taken down. In the meantime

221

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

another health resort, in which water was the staple
application, had arisen at Matlock Bank. About the
year 1851, a Mr. Ralph Davis, who lived at Darley Dale,
went about the parish of Matlock and the neighbourhood
prescribing hydropathic treatment. Subsequently he
rented an eleven-roomed house at £\z a year, and
arranged to give hydropathic treatment therein. After
it had been opened about six months, the late Mr. John
Smedley became adviser as to the treatment of the
patients, and in 1853 purchased the house, thus becoming
its proprietor and director. The building soon proved
inadequate, and it was consequently taken down, new
buildings being erected by Mr. Smedley according to his
own idea of what was necessary and adequate.* That
was the commencement of the very extensive establishment
owned and worked by the Smedley Company of the present
day.

Up to this time Matlock Bank had been a quiet hamlet
of the old parish, in which a few framework knitters,
cotton mill hands, agricultural labourers, and others
obtained a livelihood. Small rustic cottages were scat-
tered about the Bank with here and there a house of
larger size. This is said to be a fair representation of
Matlock Bank in 1855. In 186 1, a writer on She field and
Twenty Miles Round forecasted that it would thereafter
become a formidable rival to its "elder sister," Matlock
Bath.t At that time there were two places treating
patients hydropathically, Smedley *s and Davis's, for Mr.
Ralph Davis still remained a practiser of the art. In

• Steer's Smtdleys of Matlock Bank, 1897, p. 26.
t Buckleys Matlock Bank, &>e. t 1866.

MATLOCK BANK.

1866, there were advertised in a local publication eight
others, namely: — Stevenson's; Barton's, Jackson House;
Thomas Davis's, Prospect House; George Davis's, Tor
House ; Joseph Crowder's, Wellfield House ; Charles Row-
land's, Rockside; Matlock House, built by Mr. Lee, of
Manchester; and Shepherd's, who had been a bath man
at Smedley's for several years.

In the course of ten or twelve years the popularity and
success of Mr. Smedley's institution had become so great
that enlargements had to be undertaken, notwithstanding
that all the subsidiary establishments of other adventurers
were fully and prosperously employed. The following is
a description of Smedley's, published in these early days : —

"From the road it looks like a hybrid building, uniting the
characteristics of a factory, a workhouse, and a barrack — high walls of
monotonous grey stone, pierced with small windows peering out in rows,
the only objects which relieve its deadness, but its front aspect is of an
entirely different nature. A double row of terraces abutting on a garden
slope, long corridors with gravel walks beside them, a range of extensive
rooms, the front of which is formed of glass, glittering all day while the
sun is shining, and at night seen far across the valley when lighted up
from within ; and above them tier on tier of windows, with a balcony in
front of each set, all fantastically coloured, gaudily gleaming with red
and blue and gold. Date about 1857.

" Hither come visitors from all parts of England, from all parts of the
globe. The proprietor has no occasion to spend money in advertisements.
Throughout the neighbouring counties his name is a household word,
and all the year round a stream of guests pours steadily through his
portals. Old and young, seriously ill or slightly ailing, they come to
gain health here, for this is one of our chief hydropathic institutions.
Summer and Winter, Spring and Autumn, some 80 to 140 patients are
to be found here, and few appear to go away without deriving benefit
from their stay."

The success of Mr. Smedley from a material point of
view was enormous, and his wife, ever a ready and cordial

223

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

helper to himself and kind adviser to the female patients,
must share in the credit of it The successful treatment
of an ever-increasing number of patients from all parts of
the world was far beyond their expectations. Additions
to the building followed each other with astonishing
rapidity, the necessary land being acquired from time to
time by purchase from surrounding small owners, and it
is said Mr. Smedley, accustomed in his little world of
Lea to have his own way, was surprised if he could not
buy land just when he wanted it and at his own price.*
The numbers passing through the place rose to 1,600 per
annum, but even that was not the limit In 1867, 2,000
patients were treated. Still many applicants had to be
refused. The buildings were again extended, and the
number treated rose to 2,500 per annum. During this
time the whole responsibility rested on Mr. Smedley, who
was in the habit of commencing business at five o'clock
in the morning and advising on every case, corresponding
with many patients at a distance in addition to the work
at home. The strain became too great, and in 1872
Dr. W. B. Hunter was engaged and given the sole charge
of the medical department In 1875, tne institution was
acquired by a limited company, of which Mr. R. Wild-
goose was the chairman, a post he continued to fill to
the time of his death in 1900. When the premises came
into the hands of the company a sum of ,£30,000 was
spent in improving and modernising the fittings and
furniture. The buildings were also enlarged and improved
in 1 88 1, 1884, and 1886. In 1901 again, another new
block was added on the north side of Smedley Street,

» Steer.

224

MATLOCK BANK.

being connected with the pre-existing buildings by a
double-decked bridge. This new block provided a large
number of additional bedrooms. Its cost was upwards of
;£n,ooo. The turnover of the whole establishment in
1 900-1 was ,£41,584, besides which Winter Gardens had
been provided at a cost of ,£6,000. Electric light has
been provided, the engines and dynamos being placed
in the church erected by Mr. Smedley for the performance
of non-sectarian worship in accordance with his own ideas.

The Smedley hydropathic establishment is situated on
the south-western slope of Matlock Bank, overlooking the
valley of the Derwent, and the windows command an
extensive prospect, in which are conspicuous the High Tor
and Masson and Riber Hills, the latter rendered addi-
tionally conspicuous through being surmounted by the
extensive castellated building erected in later days by
Mr. Smedley. The establishment is sheltered from the
north and east by the hill which rises behind it, the
broad summit of which, covered by moor or forest,
stretches over an area measured by many square miles.
A south-west aspect and an altitude of 500 feet above sea-
level secure for it a dry and rather bracing air, while
the atmosphere is pure and healthy. The water supply,
so important an adjunct, is obtained from the moorland
above, and the institution has its own farm from which
necessary products are obtained at first-hand.

The growth of Matlock Bank has progressed concur-
rently with that of " Smedle/s." Buildings have multi-
plied, shops— of which there are many and good ones —
have increased manyfold, and the comfort and well-being
of the inhabitants have been promoted by the increase of
15 225

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

employment and means, while at the same time thousands
upon thousands of visitors have here regained that greatest
of blessings, good health.

The health-giving process is still continued, though
there are interludes when sensuous enjoyment leads. For
instance, at the Christmas dinner of 1901, when 330
persons sat down, the manager assured the company that
" Smedley's had not tarnished the name of a hydropathic
establishment by introducing intoxicants"; but a local
newspaper, recording the provision of food made for the
occasion, stated that the items included " the Boar's Head
and all manner of viands." These were on the sideboard.
" A glance at the tables reminded one of the commissariat
department of the hydro. The cold storage included, the
day before Christmas Day, geese, turkeys, pheasants, hares,
grouse, pigeons, poultry, venison, beef, mutton, pork, etc.,
to the weight of nearly 7,000 pounds; a quarter of a
ton of butter, 100 gallons of milk, ten tons of potatoes,
and other items in proportion."*

* The Christmas menu was as follows : —

Oysters.

Clear Turtle Soup. Puree de Gibier.

Fillets of Sole. Fried Filleted Turbot

Sweetbreads a la Financiere.

Supreme of Chicken a la Royale.

Bouchees aux Huitres.

Sirloin Beef. Saddle of Mutton.

Haunch Venison.

Roast Turkey. Roast Pheasant Roast Goose.

Plum Pudding. Hydropathic Pudding.

Mince Pies.

Meringues a la Chantilly.

Creme Chateaubriant. Gelee Alexandra.

Gateau Victoria. Glace a la Vanille.

Stilton and Cheddar Cheese.

Pines. Grapes. Pears. Bananas, etc

Coffee.

226

MATLOCK BANK.

It is only fitting that something should be said here
of the remarkable, if withal eccentric, man who was the
founder and pioneer of the prosperity of the Bank.

John Smedley was born at Wirksworth on the 12th of
June, 1803. On his bookplate he pave the name of
" Smedley, Wirksworth, a.d. 1654," as an ancestor, but
did not trace his descent. His ancestors were engaged
in lead mining, formerly the chief employment at Wirks-
worth, but his grandfather's step-sire* being engaged in
the worsted spinning and hosiery trade induced Thomas
Smedley to join him, and John Smedley's father continued
in the business. His mother's family, the Brights and
Woods of Wirksworth, are stated to have been possessed
of considerable landed property. In 181 8 his father
was living at Cromford Bridge House, and in the same
year the hosiery business was transferred from Wirksworth
to Lea Mills. It was not successful, however, in its new
location, and in 1823 it failed, Smedley's father losing
nearly everything he had. This calamity and the loss of
his younger son in 1827 so prostrated him that he is said
never afterwards to have resumed his business life. When
his father removed from Wirksworth John Smedley was
fifteen years old. He had left school about a year before,
and was assisting his father in the business. In 1827,
therefore, he had had ten years of business training, and
borrowing a little capital he commenced the manufacture
of wool underclothing of an improved kind. To this
end he sought to adapt the cotton spinning machinery
in the Lea Mill to the manufacture of wool. He
succeeded in this, and after fifteen years of application

•Steer, 4.

227

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

and effort found himself the possessor of considerable
means. His father died in 1840, and about this time
John Smedley is stated to have been desirous of retiring
from the business, but was unable to find a purchaser to
take it off his hands. He married, in 1846, Caroline Ann,
daughter of the Rev. John Harward, vicar of Wirksworth.
On his wedding tour in Switzerland he took a severe chill,
which was followed by fever, and he was in weak health
for some years. In 1848-51, this man, heretofore of so
much energy and enterprise, was in a nervous and
despondent condition. In 1849 he visited Ben Rhydding,
where he underwent the water treatment at the hands
of Dr. Macleod. By this he obtained much benefit and
at the same time a knowledge of the procedure. He
then went to Cheltenham, where he had purchased an
estate, intending to permanently reside there; but his
health being re-established and himself coming to a
decision in regard to the form of religion he should
embrace, he altered his plans and returned to Lea, where
he resumed his place in the conduct of his now large
business.

At this time Mr. Smedley became an intensely religious
man, and leaving the Church of England, of which he had
hitherto been a member, promoted an informal worship
resembling that of the Wesleyans, but based on his own
ideas. As his biographer* says of him, he conducted at
his mill the half-hour daily service, at which he was
himself the high priest. About 1853 he became an
abstainer from alcoholic drinks of all kinds, and purchased
a tent with which he went about the country within a

» Steer.

228

MATLOCK BANK.

radius of ten miles preaching temperance and religion.
He built chapels at Holloway, Higham, Ashover, Bonsall,
and Birchinwood-by-Alfreton.

His experience of the water treatment of debility and
disease was so convincing that he founded a hospital
in rooms adjoining the Lea Mills. These he converted
into bath and bedrooms for male patients, and some
cottage property close by was utilised for the females,
to whom Mrs. Smedley ministered. In this hospital,
founded in 1851, board, lodging, and treatment were
provided free of charge, and for twenty years Mr. Smedley
bore the cost of regularly maintaining a body of thirty
patients. Tidings of the marvellous benefits conferred
on the sick and lame were spread abroad, and applications
for treatment came in from persons in a position to pay.
Some of these were admitted to his own house and treated
gratuitously. Not only that, but where the breadwinner
was ill and incapacitated he would treat the man in the
hospital and meantime supply the wants of his family.
He subsequently embarked on the undertaking for
administering hydropathic treatment at Matlock Bank,
as before described.

Mr. Smedley also ministered materially to the comfort
of his workpeople, many of whom came from long dis-
tances, by providing cheap tea, coffee, and porridge, and
a person to cook any meat they might bring for dinner.
He also provided for the women and girls mackintosh
capes and goloshes, and on wet or snowy nights would
keep them at the mill, providing a rough shakedown in
the warm rooms. At the same time his rule was distinctly
autocratic. During his tenancy of the mill, leased from

229

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

the Nightingale family, the premises were quadrupled in
size. He also employed framework knitters in several of
the surrounding villages, and his manufactures always
occupied a high place in the trade and in public
estimation. In applying to him the term eccentric no
reflection is intended such as is sometimes implied in
the colloquial use of the word. What is meant is that
Mr. Smedley was unconventional and did not follow any
beaten track. He had ideas, and he went about to enforce
or realise them, regardless of criticism or opposition.
He had a will of his own and used it. One of his mottoes,
engraved on his remarkable bookplate, was, " I act," and
another, " Truth is great and will prevail." Doubtless he
made mistakes, but he was a true philanthropist, who did
an immense amount of good and relieved a vast sum of
human suffering, and there is a large balance of well 1
doing to his credit, not the least factor in which is the
way in which he ministered to the material prosperity
of Matlock Bank and the north-eastern part of the parish
generally. He died at Riber Castle on the 27th of July,
1874, being at the time 71 years of age. He was buried
in the cemetery at Holloway, and the route of the funeral
procession from Riber to that place was lined by people
who respected his memory, including many, no doubt,
who had reason to be grateful for his active kindness and
generosity.

After his death a public subscription was raised in order
to erect a memorial of him. This took the form of a
stained glass window of large size, its dimensions extend-
ing to 300 square feet. Its symbols are: In the centre
Truth seated in a well, holding the mirror and glass of

230

MATLOCK BANK.

water with which she is usually furnished; to the left, a
figure of Hygeia; and to the right one of iEsculapius.
It was placed in the hall of the Hydropathic Establish-
ment at the Bank.

In the Bank Road there is also a Smedley Memorial
Hydropathic Hospital, supported by voluntary contribu-
tions. This took the place of the free hospital formerly
maintained by Mr. and Mrs. Smedley. The building,
which had been already devoted to the purpose of a
hospital, was purchased at a cost of ,£1,695, raised by
subscription. A wing was added in 1897 in memory of
the late Dr. W. B. Hunter, chief physician at the Smedley
establishment. The patients pay for their board, but
receive treatment free of charge.

In October, 1873, tne Education Department gave
notice that the school accommodation for the elementary
education of the children of the parish was deficient, and
that room was wanted for one hundred in the locality of the
Bank. It was proposed by the adherents of Nonconformity,
led by the late Mr. John Smedley, to set up a School Board
for the purpose of supplying the deficiency out of the
rates. The Churchmen objected on the ground of expense
and for other reasons, and undertook to provide the neces-
sary school accommodation by voluntary means. Never-
theless, at a public meeting held on the 29th of January,
1874, a resolution in favour of forming a Board was carried
by a majority of votes. A poll being demanded, it was
carried out on the 14th of February, when the declared
result was — For a Board, 310; against, 440; majority
against, 130.

Up to this time there had been a British School on
231

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

the Green accommodating 190 children, but in the course
of the contest the Committee of Management gave notice
that if the vote about to be taken did not result in
authorising the establishment of a Board they would close
the school for lack of funds.

On the rejection of the proposal to form a Board, the
Churchmen of the parish were stimulated to provide a
voluntary school for the locality of the Bank. The result
was that the foundation-stone of a Church school was
laid by Mrs. James Arkwright, of Cromford, on the 6th
' of November following, on a site purchased from the
Rev. John Wolley, and there the work of education has
been since carried on. The building, which cost j£i,ooo,
was opened on August 10th, 1875, and in this schoolroom,
to which members of the Arkwright family were liberal
benefactors, the Rev. Adam Lowe, vicar, now conducted
Divine service, at the same time labouring to revive the
local Church feeling, which was at a low point. Almost
immediately, too, he set about to supply the need of a
permanent Church. Building commenced in 1882; at
Easter, 1884, the Church was opened, and consecrated in
the following September. The vicarage was created in
1886, and is in the gift of the Bishop of Southwell.

The school, which existed when Mr. Lowe came to the
place, has been continuously carried on weekdays and
Sundays. Enlargements have been made, and an infant
school was built and opened in 1899. There is now
accommodation for upwards of 400 children.

The Church of All Saints stands on a spacious and
commanding site a little to the west of the Smedley
Hydropathic, and is a handsome Gothic structure of local

232

MATLOCK BANK.

stone. As designed, the edifice comprises nave of three
bays, chancel, with tower and vestibule at the west end,
and a baptistery projecting beyond the lower wall on the
south. At present only the chancel and two bays have
been built. The open timbered roof rises to a height of
60 feet, and has a noble aspect, resembling the section
of a cathedral. The internal length is 115 feet, the width
of the nave 48 feet, and of the chancel, including an
organ chamber on the north and south chapel, 60 feet.
The chancel window is composed of three tall lancet-
headed compartments, with a geometrical traceried sept-
foil light above. The sitting accommodation is for 360
persons; when the building is completed this will be
increased to 600. The cost so far has been fully ^5,000
for the building alone, the site, which contains more
than an acre and a half of land, having been partly given
by the Rev. J. Higgs, a native of the place, and partly
purchased at a nominal price.

An artistic east window in the south chapel contains
representations of the Annunciation and the Salutation.
It is a memorial to the late Miss £. Briggs. Another
small window in the south wall contains an emblematic
picture of the Saviour as the Good Shepherd. The next
window, towards the west, illustrates the text, " Inasmuch
as ye have done it unto these ye have done it unto Me."
Another illustrates the text, "Lead, kindly light" The
reredos is of Caen stone with marble pilasters, ornamented
with open tracery. The recessed compartments contain
the emblems of the four Evangelists. In the centre are
figures of Christ on the Cross, St. Mary, St. John, and St.
Mary Magdalene. It was the gift of Mr. T. P. Rider, of

233

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

St. Alban's. The low wall choir screen is of brass open
work, and is in memory of the late Mr. C Collinson,
and the gift of Miss Collinson and Mr. Neal. The pulpit
and organ were presented by Mr. J. Cole, of Southport,
and the font by Miss £. Briggs, who also gave a service
of silver communion plate. The cost of the encaustic
tile flooring, richer in the chancel and sacristy than the
nave, was borne by Miss Russwurm ; the fine brass lectern,
late Norman in style, was the gift of Miss Collinson, who
also presented the communion rails; and the communion
table was provided by the late Mr. Bocock, who, with his
wife, was otherwise a liberal benefactor of the Church.
In 1886, an organ, which cost upwards of ^500, was
presented. The register dates from 1886.

The first and present vicar is the Rev. Adam Lowe,
M.A., of Jesus College Cambridge, who, in 1887, gave up
the well-endowed living of Alport to undertake a mission
here.

A site has been provided and the money subscribed
for a parsonage adjoining the Church, but in the absence
of endowment beyond the sum of ,£103, the vicar resides
in a rented house and receives the interest of the sub-
scribed money, which is in the hands of the Ecclesiastical
Commissioners, towards the rent. Otherwise, the Church
and its services are supported by voluntary contributions.

In the Order in Council, signed at Osborne House, in
the Isle of Wight, by her late Majesty Queen Victoria,
on the 1 6th of April, 1886, the boundaries of the parish
of All Saints are thus described : —

"All that part of the parish of Matlock . . . which is
hounded upon the south-east by the new parish of Tansley, upon the
north-east by the parish of Ashover, upon the north-west by the

234

MATLOCK BANK.

parish of Darley . . . and upon the remaining side, that is
to say upon the south, partly by the new parish of South Darley
and partly by an imaginary line commencing upon the boundary
which divides the said new parish of South Darley from the parish
of Matlock at a point in the middle of the River Derwent distant six
chains or thereabouts to the north west of the centre of the bridge
which carries the line of the Midland Railway over the same river,
at which point the said boundary diverges from the said river in a
southerly direction, and extending thence, that is from the said
point, south-eastward along the middle of the said river for a dis-
tance of fifty-four chains or thereabouts, thereby passing under the
railway bridge aforesaid, to the centre of Matlock Bridge which
carries the high road from Snitterton to Chesterfield over the same
river and extending thence, that is from the lastly mentioned bridge
first north-eastward, then eastward, and then again north-eastward
along the middle of the said high road for a distance of forty-eight
chains or thereabouts to its junction on the northern side of Yew
Tree House with the road and footpath which leads past the
northern side of Hurst Farmhouse into the lane which leads from
the said farmhouse towards the Duke of Wellington Inn, and extend-
ing thence, that is from the said high road, along the middle of the
said road and footpath for a distance of twenty chains or there-
abouts to the boundary at the junction of the same road and foot-
path with the last-described lane, which boundary divides the said
parish of Matlock from the new parish of Tansley aforesaid."

The Roman Catholics have a mission here. At first
it was under the care of the clergy of St Mary's, Derby.
In 1880, a house was taken in Holt Lane, where mass
was celebrated. In 1880, a site was secured in the Bank
Road, on which a church was erected in 1883. * n 1884,
a further piece of land was secured, and in September,
1896, the erection of a presbytery was commenced. The
church, which is stone-built, of limited dimensions, is
dedicated to the Blessed Virgin and St. Joseph. It
includes nave, chancel, and a chapel on the north side.
The chapel window is filled with stained glass, represent-
ing the Crucifixion, with figures of Christ and the two

235

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

thieves, one on either hand. The Rev. George Le Roy
is the priest-in-charge.

The Wesleyan Chapel (now called a Church) is also in
the Bank Road. It is a substantial and roomy stone
building, with provision for a tower. The style is semi-
Gothic, but the basement has square-headed windows.
It is dated 1882.

A Primitive Methodist Chapel was founded on the Bank
in 1838. In 1865 it was re-built, and in 1878 Sunday
schools were added. The accommodation in the chapel
is for 550 persons. The cost of the chapel, with house
for the minister, was ,£3,424; of the schools, j£i,ioi.
A second chapel is being erected on the Moor.

The principal Chapel of the Congregationalists is on
the Bank. There are sittings for 500 persons. The
first chapel was founded at the Green in 1842, and
has 200 sittings. Both chapels are under one minister.
In 1 90 1 the Pastor and officers at the Bank issued an
appeal for ^2,200 for the purpose of building Sunday
schools on a site at the corner of Chesterfield Road and
Smedley Street. A subscription was commenced, to
which the teachers and scholars contributed .£200, and
so much support was obtained that in the month of
November the contract was let, the work of erection begun,
and duly completed, at a total cost of ^2,500. The Rev.
R. A. Foster is the minister. The denomination now
possesses on the Bank, in addition to a place of worship, a
manse and a school, all well designed, constructed, and
equipped for their various uses. For several years the
religious and educational work had been carried on under
difficulties, but these are now removed.

236

MATLOCK BANK.

The Society of Friends have a Meeting House.

The Convalescent Home at Lime Tree View did not
come here till 1889, although the idea out of which it
grew had taken a practical shape nine years before. The
enterprise was begun at Mickleover, near Derby, in 1880,
by Miss Brumwell. She died in 1885. A meeting was
then held in Derby, at which it was resolved to raise a
fund to be called the Brumwell Convalescent Home Fund.
In June, 1886, it was resolved to get in plans and build,
but the scheme remained a money-raising one only till
1887, the Jubilee year of Queen Victoria. In that year,
as the result of an appeal, the funds in hand rose to
£3,000. Lime Tree View was purchased for ,£1,950,
with possession at Lady-day, 1889. The building having
been converted and fitted for its new purpose, the Home
was formally opened by Lord Edward Cavendish, M.P.,
on the 13th June, 1889. Arrangements were made for
36 beds, and the total cost was £2,850.

The germ of the idea of a Cable Tramway, such as
now enables visitors to and residents at Matlock Bank
to overcome with comfort the steepness of the road, is
6tated to have been in the mind of Mr. Job Smith, a
prominent local man, as far back as 1862, when he saw
such a line at work in San Francisco. In 1868 he
returned to England, and mentioned the idea to the late
Mr. John Smedley, who did not, however, join in realising
it. The matter lay in abeyance till 1885, when Mr. Smith
again took it up, but it was not till 1890, after Sir George
Newnes, a native of Matlock Bath, had built and success-
fully worked the Cliff Railway at Lynton, in North Devon,
that the project of building something of the kind at

*37

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

Matlock Bank was realised. In that year Sir George
Newnes offered to finance the undertaking, but it was
deemed desirable that some local men should have an
interest in it. A limited company was therefore formed,
of which the directors, besides Sir George, were Messrs.
Robert Wildgoose, Job Smith, Charles Rowland, and Dr.
W. Bell Hunter, of Matlock; Mr. Charles Hill, of Bridge
House, Cromford; and Mr. G. Croydon Marks, C.E., of
Birmingham. The depot and engine-house were built, of
good substantial stone from the Bentley Brook quarries,
at the corner of Wellington and Rutland Streets, the rails
—confined to a single line, with passing places, owing to
the narrowness of Bank Road (formerly Dobb Lane) up
which it runs — and the cable were laid, and the line was
opened on the 28th March, 1893. Two engines were
erected, each of sufficient power to work the line, the
motive cable of which is driven by large wheels worked
from the engine crank shaft. The length of the tramway
is about half-a-mile, the gradient ruling at one in five-and-
a-half, and the rise from bottom to top being 300 feet.
In 1898, Sir George Newnes bought out the other share-
holders and presented the tramway and its belongings
to the local Urban District Council, as representing the
people of Matlock. Its cost was ^20,000. It has proved
a source of profit and income to the district. The waiting-
room, surmounted by a clock, at the terminus in Crown
Square was subsequently erected and presented to the
town by the late Mr. Robert Wildgoose.

Man, it is repeating a platitude to say, is a gregarious
animal, and with isolated exceptions, which do but prove
the rule, habitually longs for the society of his fellows.

238

MATLOCK BANK.

Hence it was a most natural step to take to form the Social
Club, which was opened in the block of buildings at the
comer of Smedley and Rutland Streets on New Year's
Day, 1890. The club was avowedly founded to provide
a place of recreation within the reach of all, and the
rooms allotted to it originally comprised billiard, smoking,
play, and reading rooms. The furnishing cost ;£ioo,
provided by public subscription. In January, 1892, the
club was reported to be in a flourishing condition and
affording much pleasure and benefit to the members. In
May of the same year an attempt was made to form the
Matlock Social Institute Company, the intention being to
acquire land and erect a building behind the Bank Post
Office. The capital was fixed at ^1,000 in jQi shares,
but when, two months later, tenders were obtained it
was found that the estimated cost was such that the project
was abandoned. In the course of this year, however, the
club removed to rooms in the Central Buildings, Smedley
Street.

After the unsuccessful effort to introduce a School
Board, the Churchpeople provided additional school
accommodation, as already described, and matters educa-
tional continued on the voluntary system till 1893, when
a Board was actually set up. The circumstances which
led to this event were these. The British School had
been continued, but in 1893, the Education Department
in London called for its improvement, and in the month
of November issued an ultimatum to the managers, in
which it was stated that unless the required alterations
were very soon made an order for forming a Board would
be issued. A sum of ^700 was estimated to be required,

239

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

and efforts were made to raise that amount by means of
a voluntary rate. In February, 1894, only ^470 had
been subscribed. The month of June arrived, and on
Midsummer Day the ratepayers met and again resolved
on a voluntary rate. A poll was taken by means of voting
papers. Of these 1,062 were sent out to as many house-
holders, of whom 360 voted in favour of a rate (17
conditionally) and 181 against; while 260 returned their
papers unmarked, and 251 did not return them at all
On the nth January, 1895, an order was issued making
Matlock and Matlock Bath separate districts for educa-
tional purposes, for, as additional school accommodation
was required at Matlock only, it was deemed unjust to
include the Bath in the responsibility for the cost of it
A School Board was formed without a contest on August
17th, 1895, tne fas* members being the Rev. J. W.
Kewley (rector), Mr. Job Smith and Dr. Moxon,
Churchmen; Mr. Slack, the Rev. A. L. Humphries
(Primitive Methodists), Nonconformists; and Mr. T.
Cooper Drabble, neutral, who was designated as and
became the chairman. On the 1st October, 1895,
the Board took over the British School and carried it on
at the public cost. In May, 1896, plans for a new school
to accommodate 254 children in a mixed and 170 in an
infants' department were sanctioned. The buildings were
proceeded with the same year on a site comprising 4,674
square yards of land at the east end of Smedley Street
The price of the land was .£470. The school is built
of gritstone from Bentley Brook quarries, with glazed
brick dados internally. It was opened for use on
the 23rd of September, 1897. The total cost was

240

MATLOCK BANK.

,£5,401 9s. 2jd., of which ,£5,208 15s. was taken up
on loan at 3 J per cent., repayable in thirty-five years, the
balance being paid out of the rates. The British School
was closed by resolution of the managers on the 1st
June, 1896. In 1900, the Board added a new infants'
school to their buildings, to defray the cost of which they
borrowed ,£1,700 at 3$ per cent., repayable in thirty-five
years. The first contract was let in the month of May,
at £1,610, to Messrs. Hancock & AntlifF, Mr. John Nuttall
being the architect. By the Education Act of 1902, the
powers of the Board were transferred to the Education
Committee of the County Council.

In consequence of the existence of a feeling that Matlock
ought to have a local recreation ground, a meeting was
held on the 2nd of August, 1893, to consider the
desirability of providing such a place. A parcel of land
on the Bank, three and a half acres in extent, belonging
to Mr. R. Farnsworth, and known as Smith's Gardens,
was indicated as a suitable site. In the following month
this land was purchased for the sum of ,£1,750, and it
was decided, at a meeting on September nth, to form
a company with limited liability to carry out the object
in view. A capital of ^6,000 in jQi shares was decided
on. Plans were obtained from Mr. James Turner, of
Matlock, for a pavilion, with a hall 70 feet by 46 feet
(afterwards altered to 53 feet by 52 feet), capable of
holding 700 persons, and a swimming bath 61 feet by
24 feet (made 59 feet by 23 feet), with a depth graduated
from three to seven feet. The contract was let in October,
1894, for ^2,904 3s. At the first annual meeting on the
28th February, 1895, ** was stated that no more than
16 241

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

^2,300 had been received for as many shares, and out
of that amount the site had been paid for. The directors
naturally expressed themselves disappointed with the
result. The building was proceeded with, but by the time
the first storey was reached work came to a standstill
for lack of funds. In October more capital had been
provided, and the enterprise proceeded. The undertaking
was completed and opened by Mr. Victor Cavendish, M.P.,
in June, 1896; but in February, 1897, the company being
unable to meet its liabilities, it was proposed to wind up.
This course was, however, averted for the time; but in
May, 1 90 1, the place having been run at a loss for
some years, the mortgagee for a loan of ^2,250 foreclosed,
and the property was offered for sale by auction, but not
disposed of. It had, of course, passed out of the
possession of the company.

242

CHAPTER X.

RIBER AND THE WOLLEYS.

Altitude of Ribbr— Hearthstone — Ribbr or Ribergh Family
—Advent of the Wolleys— Their Descents— Chappell,
Wall, and Allen— The Wolleys' Hall— Allen Hill
House— Countess of Macclesfield a Land Owner— The
Castle described— Its cost — A destroyed Cromlech —
Pedigrees and Arms— Rhymed Record— Adam Wolley—
Steward of the Barmote Court— Hears a Matlock
Cause— The Wolley MSS.

RIBER is a hamlet occupying an undulating plateau
at an elevation varying from 928 feet above sea
level at Bilberry Knoll, the highest point of
Hartson Lane, to 798 feet at a point near to the lodge of
Riber Castle. Until the erection of the Castle it con-
tained, beyond the old Hall and the Manor House (now
the Hall), only one important farm and a few cottages.
The farm is called Harston on the Ordnance plan, but
older maps gave its name as Hearthstone, of which the
modern appellation is doubtless the corrupt local rendering.
Early in the fifteenth century (temp. Henry IV.), the
heiress of the Ribers, or Ryberghs, of Riber, became the
wife of John Robotham and mother of Margaret, who in
turn was married to William Wolley. Old documents
show the name written De Woley, Wolegh, Woleghe,
Woleigh, and Wollie. As the appended pedigree wit-
nesses, the Wolleys derived from a family of the same

243

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

name seated at Hollingworth and Broadbottom, in the
parish of Mottram-in-Longdendale, fully a century prior to
the marriage of William with Margaret Robotham, whose
descendants held the Riber estate, partly a copyhold of
the manor of Matlock, for six centuries. The present
representative of the family holds lands at Allen Hill,
Matlock Moor, and Riber. These latter, which lie on the
northern slopes of the hill and extend into the parish of
Tansley, are of considerable extent.

Anthony Wolley, who died in 1578, was father of
John, of Allen Hill, and Thomas, of Bonsall. From John
sprung the Marston-on-Dove branch, whence descended
William, the antiquary, who wrote a manuscript history
of Derbyshire about 1712. The last of the Riber house
was Anthony, who died without issue in 1678, and whose
sisters and co-heirs sold the land to Thomas Statham,
In 1 68 1, this was purchased by John Chappell. In 1724,
the estate was in moieties between the heiresses of the
Rev. John Chappell, when one was sold to the Walls,
whose representative still has it; the other was with
Joseph Greatrex in Lysonses' time, and has since passed to
the Aliens, and later to Sellors, formerly of Bonsall. The
substantial stone-built house now known as Riber Hall is
occupied in moieties by the owners of the land. This,
however, though an ancient structure, was not the
residence of the Wolleys. Theirs was a still more ancient
house lower down the village. Above the first-floor
window on the front of this house are these initials and
date, "G. W. M. W. 1633." This house has been dis-
mantled to some extent, but still contains remains of
the substantial oak panelling of its prime. It is in the

244

RIBER AND THE WOLLEYS.

occupation of a small farmer, and is the property of a
yeoman named Statham, who lives in the village.

The very old but not very convenient house known as
Allen Hill, at the foot of the road leading to the Dimple
at Matlock, was the residence of the branch of the
Wolley family descending from John, son of Anthony, for
a period of nearly three hundred years. The house, with
adjacent land, is still the property of their representatives.

The Chappells of Riber were a branch of the Notting-
hamshire family that produced William, who became
Bishop of Cork. While of Christ's College, Cambridge,
he was tutor to Milton, whom he whipped, whereupon the
poet betook himself to another college. This Chappell
was the disputant before whom James 1. retired, was
" regarded while at Cambridge as a Puritan through the
strictness of his life," and when in Ireland "as a papist
through his love of ceremonies."* He was an object of
attack for members of the Long Parliament, where one
member said he was an Armenian, and another the protege
of Laud. He died at Derby in May, 1649.

A deed of the 27th July, 1739, between George, Earl
of Macclesfield (only son and heir of the late Earl and
Jenetta, his wife, deceased), Thomas Anson, and William
Alsop, of Ryber, yeoman, recites that the said Jenetta,
Countess of Macclesfield, and her sister, Isabella Anson,
were seized in fee of an undivided moiety (inter alia) of
the lands and hereditaments therein mentioned as sisters
and coheirs of Elizabeth Gent, late of Wirksworth, and
the Earl and Anson conveyed to Alsop a close lying near
Ryber, in the parish of Matlock, called the Coat Close,

* Dictionary of National Biography.

245

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

which had been purchased, with other lands, by Jennett
Carryer, late grandmother of Jenetta, Countess of
Macclesfield.

The most remarkable building in Riber now is the Castle
erected by the late Mr. John Smedley. In February,
1862, Mr. Smedley, who had resorted hither for the benefit
of his health and the mountain air, purchased land at
Riber and commenced the erection of the upper lodge
on the hill. This structure is said to have been planned,
reared, finished, and occupied in four months and one
week. He then designed a tower 225 feet high, with the
intention, it is stated, of presenting it to the nation as
an observatory, but being advised that it would be unsuit-
able for such a purpose, he proceeded to build the Castle,
of which he was the sole architect. This imposing pile
of local gritstone is from its situation a prominent object
and landmark visible for many miles. It is rectangular,
but of greater breadth than depth, being 145 feet by
no feet. At each angle it has a tower 90 feet high, the
intervening bays having a height of 50 feet. The front
of the castle, overlooking Matlock Green and Bank, has
no entrance, the reasons given being the great steepness
of the approach on that side, and that from its exposed
situation the absence of doors would secure greater
warmth. Some of the windows are square and some
circular-headed. The actual entrance is on the south-
east front, sheltered from the weather in such a way that
the occupants of several carriages could enter or leave
the vehicles at the same time, all under cover. The
coach-houses are close by. In the construction of these
ornamental iron girders and brackets were used, and

246

RIBER AND THE WOLLEYS.

cheerfully decorated in reds, greens, blues, browns, and
a little gold, while the owner's crest is much in evidence.
From the entrance handsome corridors lead to the grand
saloon, which is entered over a broad staircase. From
this staircase a gallery, open to the roof, runs the whole
breadth and depth of the building. Beneath is the saloon,
ioo feet by 30 feet and 45 feet high. The seating of the
saloon was originally arranged down the sides in open
boxes, each to accommodate some twelve persons. There
were also chairs in addition. Round the gallery was a
canopy five feet broad, on which were slide boxes for books,
statuary, shrubs, and flowers. At each end of the gallery
are peculiarly constructed geometrical staircases leading
to an upper gallery, from which the towers are entered.
The lighting is chiefly from the roof, its direct rays being
modified by pretty stained glass. The interior decoration
suggested the Moorish style. On parts of the roof where
the structure admitted of it summer-houses and shrubs
were placed for the benefit of patients, the building being
designed for the practice of hydropathy as well as for
a residence. The chimneys are of circular bricks, and
were said never to require to be swept. Electric bells
were put in, gas works were erected, and a deep well
sunk. There is a conservatory about fifty feet square.
Some houses adjoining the castle were adapted as a
homely place of worship. The cost of the structure is
put at ,£35,000 by one authority, which is probably nearer
the mark than the £60,000 of another. Subsequent to
Mr. Smedley's death the castle was sold to the Rev. J.
W. Chippett, previously of Harrogate, a clergyman of the
Church of England, who has since carried on a high
class school for boys there.

247

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

There was formerly a cromlech on Riber Hill. It was
noticed by Bray in 1783, who made the following record:
— " On the top of the hill called Riber, which is above
the Church, is a stone said to have been formerly a
rocking-stone, called in Cornwall a Logan Stone;* but it
is not movable now; it has a round hole in the top,
exactly resembling one which Dr. Borlase in his
Antiquities of Cornwall has given the plans of. It is
not very large, and is placed on two other stones." In
1803, in the Beauties of England and Wales, it was stated
that the cromlech consisted of "four rude masses of
gritstone, one of which, apparently the smallest, was
placed on the others and was computed to weigh about
six tons. On the upper stone was a circular hole, six
inches deep and nine in diameter."

This interesting object was still intact in 1822, when
it was visited by Rhodes, t In 1834, however, it was
broken down. In that year it was visited by A. Jewitt,J
who said, "till within these few years this stone has
remained entire, though unnoticed by modern tourists.
The land on which it stood has passed into other hands;
a new tenant has got possession of the farm, and this
monument of antiquity has been broken up to mend his
fences or repair his house. The large stone which formed
the base still remains almost entire, and in all probability
will be suffered to remain so for years, for it forms part
of the wall of the field. It is situated near the barn, a
little to the right of the fir plantation at the northern
brow."

. * A drawing of this, with description by the present author, appeared
in the Derbyshire Archaeological Societ/s Journal in 1887.
t Peak Scenery, 3, 116.
J Matlock Companion, 35.

248

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

Adam Wolley, as the detailed pedigree shows, was born
on the 1 8th of January, 1758. He was brought up to
the profession of the law, and in his maturer years had
a considerable practice, his services being especially in
request in tithe cases. In July, 1807, he was appointed
by the Crown, in right of its Duchy of Lancaster, Steward
of the Manor of Wirksworth and of the Barmote Court,
and so continued for fifteen years, vacating the office by
resignation in May, 1822.

As Steward of the Barmote Court he presided at mining
trials in the Moot Hall, Wirksworth, when eminent counsel
appeared and pleaded before him. One of these cases,
heard on the 30th of October, 1815, was that of Knowles
and Partners, plaintiffs, and the Dimple Company,
defendants. There was a special jury, of which Philip
Gell, Esq., of Hopton, was the foreman. The cause of
action was the right to a vein of lead ore discovered by
the plaintiffs in cutting the diversion of the turnpike
road from Matlock to Bakewell, the plaintiffs claiming it
as the first finders according to mineral custom, and also
as the owners of some ancient works to which the
defendants contended they were entitled. Mr. Clarke,
K.C., and Mr. Brittlebank were the advocates on the
plaintiffs' side, and Mr. Serjeant Copley and Mr. John
Balguy on that of the defendants. The trial lasted eight
hours, during which time the court and avenues were
crowded to excess. In the result a verdict was given for
the plaintiffs. The case was re-heard before the Steward
and a special jury, of which Francis Hurt, Esq., of
Alderwasley, was foreman, on the 20th April, 1816, when
after a sitting lasting seven hours, the same counsel as
before again appearing, the former verdict was affirmed.

250

RIBER AND THE WOLLEYS.

Mr. Wolley was an active administrator of the charities
of the parish, and had the principal management of them.
At the official inquiry in 1828 it was stated that he was
accustomed to send to the Church to be distributed on
Candlemas Day sums varying from one shilling to half-a-
crown for each recipient, and with these a book containing
the names of the persons to whom the money was to be
given. The distribution was usually attended by the
minister and overseers, and sometimes by the church-
wardens. The minister stated that in case of there being
any surplus at the time of distribution he had occasionally,
recommended the poor objects to partake of it, but that
he and the churchwardens had not been consulted in the
preparation of the annual lists.

Mr. Wolley must all his life, after arrival at manhood,
have been exceedingly active as a collector of documents
and records useful in elucidating the history not only of
Matlock but of the county. As # a solicitor in practice
he would probably have unusual facilities for obtaining
such papers; at any rate, he did obtain and carefully
preserve them, to the great advantage of all who in later
days have sought and may seek to trace and publish the
annals of his native county and places in it.

More than fifty volumes of MSS., chiefly consisting of
collections relating to Derbyshire, were bequeathed by
him to the British Museum in 1837, and form the Addi-
tional MSS. 6,666 to 6,718. Nos. 6,666 to 6,675 ***
miscellaneous collections of documents, pedigrees, etc.,
entitled " Analecta," Vols. A to K. The volumes 6,676
to 6,686 inclusive are " Mineralia," consisting of legal
briefs, cases, bills, and other law papers relating to the

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

lead mines in the county. Nos. 6,687 to 6,696 are " Derby-
shire Collectanea," marked A to K, and containing various
legal and ecclesiastical documents, charters, wills,
abstracts of title deeds, and miscellaneous papers.
Volume G (6,693) consists wholly of matter relating to
the property and family of Coningsby, of co. Hereford.
No. 6,697 and 6,698 are of similar miscellaneous contents.
No. 6,699 1S an index to Mr. Wolley's series of original
charters relating to Derbyshire (originally bound up in
twelve folio volumes), now deposited with his other col-
lections in the British Museum. No. 6,700 is " Breviarium
Regiorum, in Capella Rotulorum et in Turri Londinensi
remanentium, de maneriis, terns, et tenementis in com.
Derb. collect. Nathan Ringros, Gen.," with additions by
Mr. Wolley. 6,701 consists of Church notes made by
John Reynolds, jun., of Plaistow; 6,702 is an old and
decayed volume of collections supposed to have been
made by Robert Collumbell, of Darley Hall, who died
in 1605. 6,703, miscellaneous public tracts. 6,704
contains copies of deeds, etc., made by Henry and Richard
Wigley, from the reign of Elizabeth to Charles I. 6,705
to 6,707 are three quarto volumes, containing Derbyshire
collections, made by Mr. Reynolds above-mentioned.
6,708 is a small volume by the same person on Roman
coins found in Derbyshire. 6,709 is a small volume by
the Rev. Will. Pennifather, Rector of Draycott,
Staffordshire, in the reign of Elizabeth and James I.,
chiefly relating to proceedings in the Ecclesiastical Court
respecting the tithes of Draycott; to which Mr. Wolley
has added several modern opinions on points of law.
No. 6,710 contains abstracts of Inquisitions post mortem

252

RIBER AND THE WOLLEYS.

for Derbyshire from 2 Henry VII. to 44 Elizabeth, with
indexes of places and names. No. 6,711 contains
transcripts of the Cartae Antiquae in the Tower during the
reigns of Richard L, John, and Henry II., with an index.
No. 6,712 is a similar volume of extracts from the Charter,
Patent, and Clause Rolls from 1 to 31 Henry III.
No. 6,713 is a large folio volume, containing a Treatise on
the Customs of the Cornish Stannaries, composed in 1586,
by Mr. Hoblyn, Town Clerk of Bodmin, and other matters
relating thereto. No. 6,714 relates to the Priories of
Tutbury, Brewood, Stafford, and Denlacres, co. Stafford,
and Dale and Repton, co. Derby. It belonged to Mr.
Astle in 1766. No. 6,715 is a collection of printed par-
ticulars of estates, etc., chiefly in Derbyshire. The other
three volumes do not particularly relate to Derbyshire.
Nos. 6,716 and 6,718 consist of miscellaneous monastic
treatises; 6,717 is a transcript of the Year Books of
Edward III., Henry V. and VI.*

1 NicholWt Collectanea, iii., 248-9.
253

CHAPTER XI.

RICHARD ARKWRIGHT AND HIS INVENTION.

The Manufacture of Cotton— Very Ancient— Introduction
to Europe— Spinning by Distaff and Spindle — Era of
Invention in England— Development and Growth of
Cotton Spinning and Manufacture— Arkwright's Career
and Share in this Great Work— His Difficulties, Law-
suits, and Success — Sheriff of the County — Knighted
—Darwin's Poetical Tribute.

THE manufacture of cotton, which is very ancient,
was general in India and had attained a high
state of excellence in the fifth century before
Christ, when it had existed for an undefined period
extending backward, there is reason to believe, for more
than two thousand years. Not till the thirteenth century,
however, was it introduced into Europe, the first country to
receive it being Italy, but it did not develop there. No
material improvement in the methods of spinning took
place up to a period past the middle of the eighteenth
century, and the antique process of the distaff and spindle
— used certainly from the fourth and fifth century, and pro-
bably much earlier — continued to be employed. The only
advance made was to the use of a one-thread spinning-
wheel, which dispensed with the distaff and continued in
use in country districts down to a time well on in the
century which has lately closed. In regard to weaving

254

RICHARD ARKWRIGHT AND HIS INVENTION.

also, it may be remarked, in passing, there was a like
adherence to the methods of the past The reed loom
was in use in India more than four thousand years ago,
and for all that long period little or no improvement was
made in the appliances for converting cotton into cloth.

The era of invention, as it is termed, began in Britain
in 1738, when improved appliances for both weaving and
spinning were introduced. Then came a series of brilliant
mechanical inventions which so economised labour and
accelerated production that a revolution took place in
the processes of manufacture, and one man became able
thereafter to do as much as had previously been the
work of a hundred. The point to be here elucidated is /
what was Richard Arkwright's share in this great
achievement.

Arkwright was born in Preston, Lancashire, on the 23rd
of December, 1732. His parents were poor people, and
he was the youngest of thirteen children. Education was
not easily come by in those days, and in the circumstances
it is not surprising that Arkwright's share of it was but
meagre. He was taught to write, but not much, though
later on he educated himself, so that after he had become
a business man he could write very good business letters.
That he was apprenticed to the trade of a barber is a
well-known historic fact. His master was one Nicholson,
of Preston. There is no evidence that he set up in
business in that town, but it is important to note that
there was a considerable manufacture of linen and cotton
at Preston, so that he would be early familiarised, in
theory at least, with the process of spinning. Probably
about 1750 he settled in Bolton, where his first marriage

255

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

took place on the 31st of March, 1755. * n '7^°> hi*
enterprising spirit led him to establish himself in business
in the same town, where for some time he pursued his
calling. Having become a widower, his second marriage
was celebrated on the 24th March, 1761, at Leigh, to
Margaret Biggins, of Pennington. His second wife
possessed a small property, perhaps amounting to ^£400,
which, though settled on herself, was probably advan-
tageous in helping him to develop his business. Shortly
after this he travelled the country buying human hair.
He had become possessed of the secret of a valuable
chemical process for dying hair, and this added to his
business an additional source of profit. In those days
wigs were generally worn by professional and well-to-do
persons, and Arkwright sold his dyed hair to the wig-
makers. During his journeys he was brought into constant
intercourse with persons engaged in weaving and spinning.

The loom in use one hundred and forty years ago was,
of course, the hand-loom, a very primitive affair, but all
its productions, as fustians and dimities, were in such
demand that the supply of yarn was insufficient, and the
weaver was constantly delayed by lack of it, as the making
of it by the old methods could not keep pace with him.

The idea of spinning by rollers does not appear to
have originated with Arkwright, but with one John Wyatt,
who was one of the witnesses to a patent taken out by
Lewis Paul, of Birmingham, and who is shown by Baines*
to have been himself the inventor. This invention, how-
ever, for which a patent was issued in 1738 and another
in 1758, although it was worked, did not answer. Baines

* History of the Cotton Manufacture t ch. 8.

RICHARD ARKWRIGHT AND HIS INVENTION.

did not think that Arkwright had ever seen the machine
of Wyatt and Paul, but believed it probable that he had
heard of it.* Moreover, there was a great difference
of construction in the machine of Arkwright compared
with the other, and there can be no question but that
the machine of Arkwright bore witness to the possession
of great talent on the part of its inventor. It is on record
that he manifested a strong bent for experiments in
mechanics, which he is stated to have followed closely,
to the neglect and injury of his own business and pros-
pects. And it is further stated that the operation of
elongating and attenuating the threads of cotton by means
of rollers was suggested to him by seeing red-hot iron
bars drawn out by similar means. t His natural disposi-
tion was ardent, enterprising, and stubbornly persevering;
hence his persistence to a successful conclusion.

At Warrington, in 1767, Arkwright fell in with a clock-
maker named Kay, whom he employed to bend some
wires and turn for him some pieces of brass, from which
it may be inferred that Arkwright was then experimenting,
and it has been said he was endeavouring to solve the
problem of perpetual motion, a dream which occupied
other brains than his. He conversed with the clock :
maker in frequent interviews, and at length Kay, accord-
ing to his own account, told Arkwright of a scheme
conceived by Thomas Hayes for spinning with rollers.
Kay further stated that Arkwright induced him to make a
model of Hayes's machine and took possession of it. This
machine, if the story be true, which is very unlikely,

* History, p. 140.

t Beauties of England and Wales ; iii., 519.

J 7 257

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

would undoubtedly embody Arkwright's ideas as well as
those of Hayes, and it does not at all follow, as has been
assumed, that it was a mere imitation. If, as appears to
have been the case, Arkwright knew of Hayes's machine,
and was familiar with its details, there was nothing
even suspicious in that, for it is, and must always have
been, the common practice of an inventor to inspect and
examine the productions of any who had preceded him
in the same line whenever he knew of them. At any rate,
Arkwright had the penetration to discern that the principle
he possessed had a great future of usefulness, not alone
to himself, but to mankind in general, before it and he
thereafter gave up his former business and devoted himself
to the construction and perfecting of his spinning machine.
For this purpose he went to Nottingham, taking Kay
with him and paying him wages as a mechanic, doubtless
with the view to his assisting practically in the develop-
ment of the machine.

Arkwright took out his first patent in 1769, but at the
trial in the Court of King's Bench, in June, 1785, con-
testing his claim to the crank and comb, Thomas Hayes,
who was a reed-maker of Leigh, Lancashire (from which
place Arkwright married his second wife), came forward
and swore that he had made rollers for spinning in 1 767,
and that in his machine there were two sets of rollers, the
second revolving five times as fast as the first with the
object of drawing out or attenuating the thread. He
also said that he used these rollers both to spin and to
rove, and that he communicated his invention to Kay, the
clock-maker, whose aid he required to make a small model
of the machine with brass wheels. He also stated that

RICHARD ARKWRIGHT AND HIS INVENTION.

having once met Arkwright at Manchester after the latter
had taken out his patent for the water-spinning- frame,
he reproached him with having taken his invention, which
Arkwright, he alleged, did not deny. John Ray gave
similar evidence. This evidence was given eighteen years,
but Kay, when examined, erroneously said twenty to
twenty-one years, after a conversation said to have been
held in a public-house, and after Kay had quarrelled with
Arkwright and left him in consequence of the latter
charging him with dishonesty. Kay's wife was also
called at the trial referred to, and bolstered up the story.
On the other hand, we have Arkwright's distinct state-
ment in the "case 11 which he submitted to Parliament,
that " after many years' intense and painful application
he invented, about the year 1768, his present method of
spinning cotton, but upon very different principles from
any invention that had gone before it." If Hayes had the
idea first he never realised it, although he had Kay for
his friend and assistant, just as Arkwright had. Nor did
he even publicly claim the invention till called as a
witness in the trial against Arkwright in 1785, sixteen
years after Arkwright patented it As Baines remarks,
even if Arkwright had not been entitled to all the credit
for the invention of spinning by rollers, "he possessed
very high inventive talents as well as unrivalled sagacity
in estimating at their true value the mechanical con-
trivances of others, in combining them together, perfecting
them, arranging a complete series of machinery, and
constructing the factory system — itself a vast and
admirable machinery — which has been a source of great
wealth both to individuals and to the nation."

259

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

In his early period Arkwright was a man of no means,
unless it may be supposed that he had saved some little
out of his dealings in dyed hair and his second wife's
small fortune of ^400. He appears to have been early
in need of a friend to supply those means, and he found a
temporary one in Mr. Peter Atherton, of Warrington. To
him, Arkwright, accompanied by Kay, applied, the latter
apparently not being capable of making the whole
machine. Mr. Atherton at first agreed to make the
"spinning engine," but afterwards, deterred by the
poverty of Arkwright's appearance, withdrew his consent,
but agreed to lend a smith and a watch-tool maker to
construct the heavier part of it. In this way Arkwright's
first machine, for which he afterwards took out the patent,
was made.

Being still in need of the large means required, Ark-
wright next betook himself to Preston, his native place,
and applied to Mr. John Smalley, a wine and spirit
merchant, who had known his family, for assistance.
The machine was set up in the parlour of a house belong-
ing to the Free Grammar School, lent for the purpose on
the application of Smalley, and the latter, on seeing it
worked, was so convinced of its utility that from that
moment he joined Arkwright with heart and purse, in
order to assist in bringing the invention to perfection and
pushing it into use.

On the invention of the spinning jenny by Hargreave
in 1767, riots took place in the neighbourhood of Black-
burn, when many machines were broken up. Preston,
being an adjacent town, might also be supposed to be in
danger, and in consequence Arkwright again betook

260

RICHARD ARKWRIGHT AND HIS INVENTION.

himself to Nottingham, accompanied this time by Smalley
as well as Kay. Here the adventurers were afforded
pecuniary assistance by Messrs. Wright, bankers, on
condition of sharing in the profits of the invention. As,
however, the machine was slow in reaching a profitable
stage, the firm requested Arkwright to look elsewhere
for assistance, and recommended him to Mr. Samuel
Need, of Nottingham. This gentleman was the partner
of Mr. Jedediah Strutt, of Derby, who improved and
patented the stocking-frame of Lee, and Mr. Strutt, having
seen Arkwright's invention, declared it admirable, only
wanting an adaptation of some of the wheels to each
other. Thereupon, in 1770, both Mr. Need and Mr.
Strutt entered into partnership with Arkwright, with whom
the idea of applying other than manual power to the
spinning of cotton originated. At first this was done by
horse traction, as the specification for the patent of 1769
distinctly states and the drawing accompanying it shows.
The horse-power mill, which was at Nottingham, did not,
however, answer, being found too expensive. Then it
was that the firm of Messrs. Strutt, Need, and Arkwright
erected a small mill, subsequently followed by the fine
six-storey factories at Cromford, with the view of utilising
water-power, which they did. These last were built in
1 77 1. The Masson Mill was erected in 1783. From the
use of water as the motive power Arkwright's spinning
machine came to be called the water-frame.

A series of capacious reservoirs for the catchment and
storage of water were constructed in Bonsall Hollow,
with a lower and last one in the heart of the village of
Cromford. These still remain. They were fed by a

261

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

stream coming down the Via Gellia valley, supplemented
by the rivulet which runs through the village of Bonsill
and forms a junction with the first-named stream at the
foot of Ball Eye. On leaving the lowest reservoir, now
known as the Cromford mill dam, the stream was diverted
by means of a culvert across the road, carried along the
foot of Cromford Rocks, and so down at a sufficient
elevation to fall upon and turn the water-wheel that
supplied the motive power to the machinery in the mills.

The natural supply of water was afterwards supple-
mented, opposite the foot of Chapel Hill, by the outflow
from the Cromford Sough or Level, made in the interest
of the lead-mining industry for the purpose of draining
the mines lying in the Wirksworth basin. This level is
two miles in length, and cost in making ^30,000. The
water thus obtained was subject to little variation, and
so distinguished from the natural supply. It was, more-
over, of a higher temperature in winter than the water
exposed to the air, presumably because, issuing out of the
earth, it would be of the same uniform temperature
as underground caves, namely, 48 degrees, and, as is stated,
not liable to become frozen. Hence it was very valuable
as a motive power.*

In the various ways described were the difficulties which
beset a poor inventor overcome. Arkwright, the genius,
the prescient, powerful organiser, triumphed; but he was

*The Meerbrook Sough, also made to drain the Wirksworth
mines at a later date, took away much of the water from Cromford
in another direction. Litigation ensued, in which Mr. Peter Ark-
wright (who had bought the Cromford Sough) defended his right,
but losing in the Courts, he came to an agreement. On the 21st of
September, 1844, all the hands of the Cromford Mills left off work
at noon owing to shortness of water, such a thing never having been
known to occur before.

262

RICHARD ARKWRIGHT AND HIS INVENTION.

not a selfish, grasping man, as has sometimes been alleged,
nor was he in his triumph without a thought for those
of the class from which he had sprung. In the specifica-
tion of his first patent, which was enrolled on the 15th
of July, 1769, he said his was an invention "for the
making of weft or yarn from cotton, flax, and wool, which
would be of great utility to a great many manufacturers,
as well as to his Majesty's subjects in general, by employ
ing a great number of poor people in working the said
machinery, and by making the said weft or yarn much
superior in quality to any ever heretofore manufactured
or made." About 1782, Arkwright estimated that there
were 5,000 persons employed in the business; but in
1779 serious riots had occurred in Lancashire, and a mill
which he had erected at Chorley at considerable expense
was completely sacked. At the beginning of the nine-
teenth century the mills at Cromford and Masson
employed about 1,150 persons, of whom 150 were men,
300 women, and 700 children. In 1845, the number of
hands engaged was 1,200, Mr. Peter Arkwright, grandson
of the founder, being then the owner and employer. From
the beginning and continuously attention was paid to the
health and morals of the children, and schools were
instituted for their benefit

The difficulties and delays which had to be overcome
and expense incurred form sufficient proof that Arkwright
did not copy a perfect invention of anybody's. Even
after the establishment of his mills he went on improving
and developing his appliances, until he had brought their
construction and performance to a state of extreme
practical excellence, turning out yarns of the best possible

263

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

finish, including the finest counts for warp, hosiery, and
sewing thread. His invention was also adopted in the
woollen and worsted trades.

Arkwright and his firm were met by the bitter animosity
of the Lancashire manufacturers, who, though his yarns
were by far the best in the market, refused to buy them,
and, as appears from his " case," it was not till after a
lapse of more than five years, and upwards of £12,000
had been expended on machinery and buildings, that
any profit accrued to himself and partners. Not being
able to sell their yarn, the firm wove it into stockings,
which succeeded, Mr. Strutt having already, it will be
remembered, improved a successful machine for knitting
stockings. They then established the making of calicoes,
the first cotton goods of English make in which the warp
was cotton being manufactured at Derby in 1773, by
Messrs. Strutt & Need, the partners of Arkwright,* with
some of his peculiar water twist yarn. There was then,
however, in force a law "for the encouragement of the
arts," which imposed on such goods when printed double
the amount of duty chargeable upon mixed fabrics of
linen and cotton. The same sapient law prohibited the
sale of these home-made goods in the home market
Relief was ultimately granted from these hard conditions,
the legislature, after the expenditure of much money by
those on whom they bore, and in face of strong opposition
by the manufacturers in Lancashire, passing an Act in
that behalf. This was the 14 George III., c. 72.

In the year 1772, Arkwright's right to his patent was
contested, on the ground that he was not the original

* Bohn's Vre's Cotton Manufacture, I., 224.
264

RICHARD ARKWRIGHT AND HIS INVENTION.

inventor, but he obtained a verdict, and without further
molestation enjoyed his rights to the end of the term
for which the patent was granted.

In 1775, Arkwright took out a second patent for addi-
tional appliances, including the crank and comb for
carding. The validity of this was contested by an action
in the Ring's Bench Court in 1781, when a verdict was
given against him on the technical ground of the
insufficiency of his specification ; but in 1 785 the case was
again tried in the Court of Common Pleas, when judgment
was in his favour. This result raised up an association
of the principal manufacturers, who instituted another
cause by writ of scire facias in the Court of King's Bench,
when Arkwright was defeated on the ground that he was
not the original inventor.* On this occasion Elizabeth
and George Hargreave, widow and son of the alleged
inventor of the spinning jenny, came forward and said
that he, James Hargreave, had contrived the crank and
comb two years before Arkwright took out his patent
Baines, however, adduces the testimony of Mr. James,
the partner of Hargreave, to show that the crank and
comb were invented in Arkwright's works and a drawing
made on a table therein, from which the things them-
selves were constructed, t Conscious of his own right
and title, a rule for a new trial was moved for at
Arkwright's instance, only, however, to be refused, and
on the 1 8th of November, 1785, the Court of King's
Bench gave judgment to cancel the letters patent After
that others as well as himself could freely use the
ingenious appliances which he had invented and

* Davits' s Derbyshire, p. 491.
i Baines y p.iy$.

265

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

laboriously developed; but in the competition which
followed, Arkwright, whose partnership with Mr. Jedediah
Strutt was dissolved in 1781, was by no means out-
distanced, as he succeeded in amassing a very large
fortune. Still, it must be said that hard justice was meted
to him. As Glover has recorded, "The most intimate
friends of Sir Richard Arkwright and those best acquainted
with his character, never entertained the slightest doubt
with respect to the originality of his invention."*

During the entire period that he was so actively engaged
with his inventions and business, Arkwright was afflicted
with a severe asthma, which was always extremely
oppressive, and threatened sometimes to put an immediate
termination to his existence. This makes his great
exertions and persistence the more commendable and
surprising. For some time previous to his death he was
rendered incapable of continuing his usual pursuits by
added attacks of disease of other kinds, to which finally
he succumbed, dying at Rock House, Cromford, on the
3rd of August, 1792, in the sixtieth year of his age. He
was buried first at Matlock, but when the Church at
Cromford, then begun, was completed, the body was
removed into it, and there it now reposes. His funeral
at Matlock was made the occasion for a great demonstra-
tion, the whole population of the district turning out and
lining the roadsides. After his death the business at
Cromford, Matlock Bath, and Mellor Mills was carried
on by his son, and later by his grandsons, Robert and
Peter. The Cromford mills were finally closed in Septem-
ber, 1846. Masson Mill, Matlock Bath, continued to be

* Directory of Derbyshire, 1829, Introduction, p. xviii.
266

RICHARD ARKWRIGHT AND HIS INVENTION.

run by the representative of the founder down to
November, 1897, though in September, 1888, Mr. F. C.
Arkwright stated in a reported speech that it had been
to him an unprofitable concern. The modem manufac-
ture at this mill was the spinning of sewing cotton, and
in 1897 the business was transferred to the English Sewing
Cotton Company, a combination of similar concerns
throughout the kingdom. A factory chimney of red brick
has since been erected, and the high wall which screened
the mill from the road pulled down.

The progress of the cotton manufacture in this country
consequent on Arkwright's and other inventions and their
developments was astonishingly rapid. Long after the
middle of the eighteenth century the output of this
important manufacture in England was still in its infancy,
not averaging more than ^200,000 in value annually,
but in 1824 Mr. Huskisson stated in the House of Com-
mons that the total value of the cotton goods manufactured
in Great Britain amounted to the sum of thirty-three
millions and a half yearly. In 1836 the value had risen
to forty-five millions, and a few years later to sixty millions
sterling. In 1898 the exported cotton manufactures were
valued at fifty-six millions, and the home consumption
would probably amount to as much again.

Richard Arkwright was not without honour in his own
county and country. In 1788, he. was selected for the
Shrievalty, and duly appointed. In the same year it was
his duty to present to the King an address from the county
congratulating his Majesty on his escape from the attempt
on his life by Margaret Nicholson, on which occasion he
received the honour of knighthood. A grant of arms

267

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

was made to Sir Richard in 1797, shortly subsequent to
his being knighted. A freer rendering of the family
motto than that usually adopted would be, "I have
endured much, but I have accomplished a great deal,"
which is doubtless very apt and true.

So Arkwright taught from cotton pods to cull
And stretch in lines the vegetable wool;
With teeth of steel its fibre-knots unfurl'd,
And with the silver tissue clothed the world.*

►Darwin, Thi Temple of Nature, Canto iv., 1. 261-4.
268

Modki ok Akkwkich r's Si'iNMNi; Frame.

preserved >ii Croiufvrd.

CHAPTER XII.
RICHARD ARKWRIGHT AND WILLERSLEY.

Manor of Willersley— Its Descent— Acquired by Richard
Arkwright— Extensive Tree Planting — The Castle—
Scarthin Rocks — Mills — Arkwright's III Health —
His Death and Funeral— Present Representative herb
-Pedigree — Cromford Church — Improved and Em-
bellished—Monuments—St. Mark's Church and Burial
Ground— Endowment— Vicars — Ancient Chapel — Crom-
ford Market.

THE Manor of Willersley belonged in the reign of
Henry VI. to Richard Minors, Esq., by whom it
was conveyed to Sir Roger Leche. In 1595,
Henry, the youngest son of Gilbert Talbot, Earl of
Shrewsbury, died seized of the manor. Gertrude, one of
his daughters and co-heiress, married Robert Pierrepont,
Esq., afterwards Earl of Kingston, from whom, in pur-
suance of a family settlement, it passed to William
Pierrepont, Esq., of the younger branch of the Kingston
family; he, having no issue, bequeathed it to his widow,
the co-heiress of Sir Thomas Darcy, Bart. This lady in
turn settled it on her nephew, Sir Darcy Dawes, Bart.,
son of the archbishop of that name. Sir Darcy's daughter
and heir having brought it to Edwin Lascelles, Esq.,
afterwards Lord Harewood, it was sold by him in 1778
to Mr. Edmund Hodgkinson, tenant of the estate, whose
son afterwards sold it to Thomas Hallett Hodges, Esq.,

269

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

of whom it was purchased by Sir Richard Arkwright*
For seven years after he obtained possession of the estate,
which now extends on the east side of the river to Matlock
Church on the north, to Bonsall on the south-west, and
proportionately far on the east and south, Sir Richard
planted trees at the rate of 50,000 annually, and there
are still considerable woods upon it. The present holder
has also planted freely in Bonsall Hollow and elsewhere.
The site of the manorial residence, Willersley Castle,
which is well within the Matlock boundary, is a bold yet
sheltered eminence, fronted by a grassy slope falling steeply
down to the edge of the river Derwent which runs below,
and extending to Cromford bridge, near which, on the
north side, are the entrance gates to the carriage drive
by which the Castle is approached. The actual site was
previously occupied by a rock, the dimensions of which
may be inferred from the fact that it is said to have
cost Sir R. Arkwright ^3,000 to have it cleared away.
Another massive, wooded, pyramidal rocky eminence still
rises in rear of the mansion, and shelters it from the
chilly breezes of the north. The house faces to the
south, is castellated in style, being embattled, and com-
prises a central structure with wings, the latter having
each a semi-circular turret of suitable proportions projected
from either angle, while a similar turret flanks on each
side the main central entrance. The massive circular
head of the keep rises above the general level of the
roof. The building is well-proportioned and substantial
in appearance. It is constructed of local sandstone of
a light colour, and, notwithstanding its more than a century

* Lysons's Mag. Brit., V., 207-8.
270

RICHARD ARKWRIGHT AND WILLERSLEY.

of age, still wears an appearance of freshness. Its designer
was Mr. William Thomas, architect, of London. Before
the house had been inhabited it was reduced to a shell
by an accidental fire brought about by the over-heating
of a stove, on the 8th of August, 1791 ; but it was soon
restored, though not finally completed till after Sir
Richard's death.

The interior is designed on an ample scale. Thus, the
Entrance Hall is 20 feet square, the Dining-room, on
the right of the hall, being 30 feet by 20 feet. In this
room hangs the highly characteristic portrait of Sir Richard
Arkwright, painted from life by Wright, of Derby. He
is pictured, as seen by our reproduction, sitting in his study,
the left hand resting on a table which bears his celebrated
great invention, the "water spinning frame." There
are also portraits of his son and Mrs. Richard Arkwright,
together with others, also by Wright, of youthful
descendants. One of these shows Elizabeth, John, and
Joseph, and the other Richard, Robert, and Peter, children
of Richard Arkwright. Both are remarkably fine pictures,
in the style which Reynolds rendered classical, and for
grouping, drawing, and colouring are truly admirable, and
beyond their great family interest they are invaluable
artistic treasures. The Drawing-room is of the same
dimensions as the Dining-room; the Breakfast-room is
34 feet by 17 feet, and there is a vestibule 30 feet by
15 feet. There is also a spacious Sitting-room; all these,
besides the necessary offices, being on the ground floor.

Opposite to the Castle, but separated from it by the
lawn, the river, and a distance of 250 or 300 yards, a series
of perpendicular limestone cliffs rise to a height varying
from 80 to 150 feet, nowhere exceeding 20 yards in

271

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

breadth, stretching from west to east, and coming down
at the latter end, step by step, to the ground level. These
are a spur of Masson, and formed originally the termina-
tion of the Harp Edge series of rocks, backing on Scarthin
Nick. They are named Scarthin Rocks on the Ordnance
map, but are now cut off by the opening made to admit
the high road, formerly a turnpike, leading to Matlock
Bath, Matlock, and onwards to Manchester. The sum-
mits of the rocks are clothed with a growth of trees of
various kinds. These rocks form a natural but effective
screen between the house and Arkwright's first water mills,
which, built as they are of good red sandstone, still
remain to witness to his skill and perseverance. From
the Castle, owing to its elevated situation, the prospect
extends over and far beyond the rocks, to the south-east
to the woods bordering Cromford Moor, and directly south
to the Black Rocks midway between Cromford and Wirks-
worth, and Barrel Edge, a still higher eminence, rising to
an elevation of 1,055 feet. Towards the west the view
includes the river, backed by the ridge of rocks known
as the Harp Edge, which are covered and beautified by
well-grown woods.

The ornamental grounds around Willersley are extensive
and admirable. They are for the most part arboreal in
character, with pleasant paths under the shade of well-
grown trees of various kinds. The horticultural depart-
ment is of considerable dimensions, and although calcu-
lated to give pleasure by its arrangement and the beauty of
its floral productions and satisfaction by its fruits, it is
decidedly unpretentious, and does not compete with the
gardens or products of some great county houses. There

272

/ HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

John, fourth son of Richard, and grandson of Sir
Richard, went to reside at Hampton Court, Hereford,
where an estate had been acquired by his grandfather,
and was the founder of the branch of the family in that
county. Charles settled at Dunstall Lodge, Staffordshire,
and was a partner in the bank at Ashbourne and Wirks-
worth; while Joseph, who kept a pack of foxhounds,
entered the Church and resided at Mark Hall, Essex,
was the ancestor of the branch of the family seated there.

The Church for Willersley, Gothic in style, and
dedicated to St. Mary, is situate in Cromford, though
divided from the Willersley demesne by the width of
half the river only. Its site is a piece of ground formerly
called the Green, which was previously occupied by a
lead smelting furnace, in the refuse slag heap of which
the foundations were laid. The edifice is constructed of
a light red sandstone obtained from the quarries at the
Black Rocks. The building was begun by Sir R.
Arkwright, but being unfinished at the time of his death,
was completed by his son, as already mentioned. It was
opened on the 4th of June, 1797, and consecrated on the
20th September in the same year by the Bishop of Lich-
field and Coventry, in whose diocese it then was.

The Church consists of nave and chancel with small
north and south galleries in the base of the tower on
the west. The extreme length, interior measurement, is
108 feet, and the width 48 feet. The chancel, which is
apsidal, is fitted with choir stalls in front of the sacristy.
It has three two-light windows with traceried heads.
Originally this chancel was very shallow, and the nave
had a flat ceiling, with a double tier of five windows on
each side. In 1858 the late Peter Arkwright, Esq., the

274

RICHARD ARKWRIGHT AND WILLERSLEY.

patron, had the fabric restored and improved, both inter-
nally and externally, at a cost of ,£3,000. These
improvements comprised the removal of the side galleries,
which had come to be regarded as low and inconvenient,
and the substitution of modern open seats for the old
high-backed pews. The chancel was extended, and three
pointed windows inserted in it, the floor being laid with
encaustic tiles. The windows in the nave were enlarged,
reducing their number to five on each side, so that the
lights are now of ample proportions, satisfying at once
their utilitarian object and the canons of artistic taste.
The substantial and well-proportioned tower rises from the
centre of the west end of the nave, the main entrance to
the Church being through its base. Over this entrance
is the organ. On the west front, projecting from the tower,
is an arched porch extending along two-thirds of the width
of the Church, carried on three arches, and open at the
ends.

The Church is extensively and artistically embellished
with mural paintings depicting scriptural incidents in
the modem style. The whole of the ten windows of the
nave are filled with stained glass, as are also those in
the chancel. The east windows and mural paintings were
put up in 1897-8 to commemorate the centenary of the
Church. Each of the windows in the chancel has two
compartments. These are filled as follows :— (1) The
Agony in the Garden; (2) Christ bearing the Cross;
(3) The Crucifixion; (4) The Resurrection; (5) The
Charge to St. Peter, "Feed My Sheep"; (6) The Descent
of the Holy Ghost Over these are the symbols of the
Three Persons of the Trinity, the Hand (of the Creator),
the Lamb (the Redeemer), and the Dove (the Comforter).
Between the windows and over the communion table are

275

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

figures of the Saviour holding the bread and wine. Under
the windows are represented the four archangels —
St Raphael, St. Michael, St. Gabriel, and St. UrieL
There are also angels representing the implements, etc,
connected with the Passion. All these are most tastefully
carried out, being drawn in various light colours on a
background of gold. Wall paintings in the chancel
represent the Nativity, Adoration, Presentation in the
Temple, Flight into Egypt, Christ among the Doctors,
and the Home at Nazareth. On the north side of the
chancel arch, facing the nave, is represented the Transla-
tion of Elijah, whose mantle is falling on Elisha; and
on the south side is a representation of the Ascension.
Over the arch are the Alpha and Omega. On the nave
walls, between the windows, are shown, on the north side,
the four greater prophets, and on the south the four
Evangelists, symbolising the Old Covenant and the New.
The monogram " S.M." and the lily, the emblem of the
Blessed Virgin Mary, the patron saint, are shown in the
border round the walls. All these commemorative decora-
tions were designed by and carried out under the super-
vision of Mr. A. O. Hemming, of Margaret Street, London.
There is attached to the chancel windows the following
inscription : " Erected in memory of Frederic Arkwright,
who died 1874, James Charles Arkwright, who died 1896,
and Fanny Jane Galton, who died 1874."

On the north wall of the chancel is a monument to the founder
of the Church and of the Arkwright family : —
(Arms.)
" In memory of Sir Richard Arkwright, Knight, founder of this
church. He was born at Preston in the County of Lancaster, 23rd
December, 1732, and died at Cromford 3rd August, 1792."

Another, " In memory. of Richard Arkwright, Esq., of Willersley,
the only son of Sir Richard Arkwright, Knt., born 19th December,

376

RICHARD ARKWRIGHT AND WILLERSLEY.

1755, died 23rd April, 1843. And of Mary, his wife, daughter of
Adam Simpson, Esq., of Bonsall, in the County of Derby, born
6th August, 1755, died 24th February, 1827. Also of their
daughters, Mary, who died 9th June, 1803, aged 15 years, Harriet,
who died 7th November, 181 5, aged 17 years, and Frances, born
23rd August, 1796, died 4th November, 1863."

" In memory of Peter Arkwright, Esq., of Willersley, third son of
Richard Arkwright, Esq., born April 17th, 1784, died Sept.
19th, 1866. And of Mary Anne, his wife, daughter of Charles
Hurt, Esq., of Wirksworth, born March 17th, 1786, died Sept. 6th,
1872."

" In memory of Frederic Arkwright, Esq., of Willersley, eldest
son of Peter Arkwright, Esq., born August 16th, 1806, died Deer.
6th, 1874. Also of Susan Sabrina, his wife, born February 25th,
1818, died October 7th, 1874."

On a chaste and simple alabaster mural monument from the chisel
of Chantrcy, placed on the north wall at the eastern extremity of
the nave, is the following inscription : " Sacred to the memory of
Martha Maria, the beloved and affectionate wife of Richard Ark-
wright, jun., Esq., and daughter of the Rev. William Beresford, of
Ashborne, who died on the 12th of March, 1820, aged 40 years.
' Blessed are the pure in heart, for they shall see God.' Also in
memory of their children, Richard Arkwright, who died November
19th, 1810, aged 5 weeks, Richard Arkwright, who died February
13th, 1813, aged 6 weeks, and Agnes Maria Arkwright, who died
March 16th, 1813, aged 4 years."

On a rectangular tablet of the same marble beneath the above —
"Richard Arkwright, jun., of Normanton Turville, in the county
of Leicester, eldest son of Richard Arkwright, Esq., of Willersley,
born 30th September, 1781, died 28th March, 1832."

In a corresponding position to the above on the south wall is
another marble monument by H. Weeks, A.R.A., bearing in a
circular sunk panel a mourning female figure in alto-relief sur-
mounted by the conventional urn and veil and the following inscrip-
tion : — "Charles Arkwright, Esq., of Dunstall, in the County of
Stafford, 5th son of Richard Arkwright, Esquire, of Willersley, born
22nd Nov., 1786, died 28th Deer., 1850, and also Mary, his wife,
daughter of Edward Sacheverel Wilmot Sitwell, Esquire, of Stainsby
House, in this County, born 6th Dec, 1788, died 29th Nov*., 1858.
Their remains are deposited in a vault beneath. In affectionate and
grateful remembrance this monument is erected by their nephews
and nieces." 277

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

On a brass plate on the south side of the inner western door — " Io
affectionate remembrance of Augustus Peter Arkwright, of Wilier*
ley. He represented North Derbyshire in Parliament from 1868 to
1880. Died 6th October, 1887, aged 66."

The eagle lectern of brass, a memorial of the late James Ark*
wright, Esq., is thus inscribed — "To the glory of God and is
memory of James Charles Arkwright, born 21st Oct'., 18 13, died
16th May, 1896."

The tower originally contained a clock and one bell,
the latter bearing the inscription: "Edwin Arnold fecit,
Leicester, 1796." At the time of the restoration in 1858,
an anonymous donor presented a peal six in number,
of the tubular form. These are rung by ropes in the
ordinary way, and though subdued in tone, are agreeably
musical. The Church contains four hundred and fifty
sittings. The register dates from 1797.

In 1877, a second Church, dedicated to St Mark, was
erected on a site nearer the centre of the village on the
Wirksworth road. An acre and a half of land was given
by Mr. F. C. Arkwright, and on this a small but neat
Gothic Church, to accommodate one hundred and fifty
worshippers, was built, at a cost of ^£1,250.

A burial ground had long been a desideratum in order
to save the journey to Wirksworth with the local funerals,
and the remainder of the land was laid out as a cemetery,
and as such has since been used. The total expenditure
amounted to ;£ 1,500. A memorial east window to the
late F. Arkwright, Esq., and his wife, the result of a
subscription, contains three compartments. In the centre
is a representation of the Resurrection, with, on the left,
the Raising of Lazarus, and on the right the Widow's
Son of Nain. This meritorious work, which adds much
to the beauty of the interior of the edifice, is thus
inscribed : —

278

RICHARD ARKWRIGHT AND WILLERSLEY.

" To the glory of God and to the memory of Frederic Arkwright,
of Willersley, in this county, Esquire, who died December 6th,
1874. Also of Susan Sabrina, his wife, who died October 7th, 1874.
This window is erected by the tenantry, agents, and workpeople on
the Estates in Derbyshire and Cheshire. A.D. 1876."

Another stained window contains a representation of
David with the Harp, and is inscribed as follows: —

" To the glory of God and in memory of Susan Alice Levett, who
died 4th April, 1900."

In another window is pictured the prophet Moses, with
the Tables of the Law. The inscription on this is : —

" To the glory of God and in memory of the Rev. R. M. Jones,
for 45 years Vicar of this Parish."

On the 1 2th March, 1902, still another painted window
was unveiled. This window, well conceived and finely
coloured, was the first to be placed on the northern side
of the Church, and was erected as a memorial of the
Rev. Canon G. H. Sing, the last deceased vicar. The
principal figure represents the Evangelist St. John, bearing
an open Bible, on the page of which are the words:
"There is no fear in love, but perfect love casteth out
fear." Below is a scene depicting the Saviour calling
St Peter to follow Him. Jesus Christ bears a crook, and
St Peter is kneeling at His feet with hands extended in
homage. The sea from whence the fisherman is called on
to leave all and follow his Master is shown in the rear,
and thereon an ancient barque with lateen sails, which
formerly, as now, navigated the inland seas. To the left,
at the base of the window, is the inscription . —

" Giving thanks to God for the beloved memory of George Herbert
Sing, Canon of Southwell, Vicar of this Parish, 1 899-1 901, who died
July 23, 1 90 1, aged 41, his wife and parents, brothers and sisters
dedicate this window. A.D. 1902."

279

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

The benefice of Cromford is now a Vicarage, the
income, secured by endowment, being ,^300. Previous to
1899 there was no house attached to the living, though
a residence erected for the purpose by Peter Arkwright,
Esq., was allotted to the incumbent In the year named,
F. C. Arkwright, Esq., the present patron, conveyed this
house to the Ecclesiastical Commissioners as a vicarage
house attached to the living.

The following is a list of the incumbents : —

1797. Rev. Richard Ward. Resigned.

1838. Rev. Robert M. Jones. Resigned.

1886. Rev. W. H. Arkwright Resigned.

1893. Rev. Egbert Hacking. Resigned.

1899. Rev. Canon G. H. Sing. Died.

1902. Rev. A T. Humphreys.
A water-colour drawing made in 1786 shows that the
old village of Cromford was grouped on the further side
of the bridge, about where the gates of Willersley now
stand, and where there was an old-fashioned inn.

In 1790, Sir Richard Arkwright obtained the grant
of a market for Cromford, the market day being Saturday.
The market was first held on the 19th of June in the year
named, and the day was made the occasion of great
festivity. Eight clubs of the village and neighbourhood
went in procession, headed and accompanied by several
bands of music, and on returning to their places of
meeting the members were regaled with tea, etc. There
were very large supplies of various articles offered for
sale, and as an " immense concourse " of people attended,
the beneficial institution, as it was rightly termed at the
time, must be taken to have made a good start. The
market was afterwards regularly kept up, and became a
busy centre for trade ; but on the closing of the Cromford
Mills, soon fell into disuse.

280

CHAPTER XIII.

THE LEAD-MINING INDUSTRY.

Its Antiquity— Roman Pigs of Lead— Saxon Times — Royal
Rights and Writs — Customs and Privileges of the Miners
— Primitive Methods — Drainage Levels or Soughs —
Horse Gins— Steam Engines— Stowses and their Main-
tenance—The King's Meer of Ground— Miners' Roads —
Lead Stealing — Bblland — The Dish — Henry VIII.
Standard — The Royal Tribute — Estate in Mines
hereditary— Superstition as to Whistling in Mines.

THE mention of a lead work or mine in the
Domesday Book gives considerable antiquity to
the mining industry founded upon the rich and
extensive deposits of lead ore which underlay or mingled
with the strata on which this parish stands. That antiquity
has, however, been considerably increased by the finding
of pigs or blocks of smelted lead bearing inscriptions
showing that they were cast during the Roman occupation
of this country. By a coincidence which is very remark-
able, three such pigs of lead have been discovered in
the parish of Matlock, and a fourth not far away, namely,
on Cromford Moor. The finding of the last-named was
first in point of date, it having been accidentally dis-
covered a foot below the surface of the ground by a
labouring man in 1777. As this pig bore the name of
the Emperor Hadrian, its date has been fixed as about

281

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

130 A.D. But Pliny mentions* that the Britons them-
selves dug up lead even earlier still.

The first pig of lead found in Matlock came to light
in 1783. Its dimensions were: Length at the top,
19 inches; at the bottom, 22 inches; width at the top,
3 J inches; at the bottom, 4 J inches; weight, 84 lbs. It
was thus inscribed . —

"l. arvconi. verecundl metal, lvtvd."

This pig is in the British Museum. Hiibner, of Berlin,
expands the inscription thus: a L. Aruconi Verecundi
Metal(lorum) Lutud(ensium)."

The second Roman pig of lead was found on Matlock
Moor in the year 1787. This was 17 J inches in length
at the top and 2o£ inches at the bottom. As this pig is
not in the British Museum, its whereabouts being now
unknown, the other dimensions cannot be given. It
consisted of thirty layers, and its weight was 173 lbs. Its
date is assumed to be 41-54 A.D. The inscription in this
case ran thus: —

"tlcl.tr. lut. ml ex. arc"

Hiibner expands this inscription thus, though he indi-
cates doubt as to the third and fourth words: "Ti(berii)
Cl(audii) Tr(ophinii) Lut(udense) Br(itannicum) ex
arg(ento)."

A third pig of lead was found on the Portland Grange
estate in March, 1894. Its length was 22 J inches at the
base, and 19! at the summit; width at bottom, 5 J inches,
at top, 3^ inches. It is thus inscribed, though much more
ornamentally than in the type of our reproduction : —

"P. RUBRI ABASCANTL METALLL LUTUDARES."

♦Camden, p. 494.

282

THE LEAD-MINING INDUSTRY.

Much ingenuity has been expended in the decipher-
ment of these inscriptions, especially of those disclosed at
the end of the eighteenth century. The letters " lut."
and " lutud." have been generally taken to be contrac-
tions of "lutud arum," the name of a Roman station,
next in order, according to Ravennas, to Derventio or
Little Chester, near Derby, and which is supposed to
have been Chesterfield, which town might have been the
head of the metallic district, so that this part of the
inscription would indicate the locality from which the
lead had come. A Roman pig of lead found at South
Cave, East Yorkshire, in 1890, had as part of its inscrip-
tion the contraction "lutex.," which, by a writer in a
newspaper,* was interpreted to mean "from the mine of
Lutudae," the writer adding: "The mine of Lutudae is
supposed to have been somewhere near Matlock Moor,
and the pig would be on its way to York, the Roman
capital of Britain, when it was lost at the ferry." This
pig bore the name of " Caius Julius Protus," and its date
has been set down as about 50 B.C., shortly after Britain
had become a Roman colony.

Dr. Hiibner, being referred to, gave an elaborate
explanation of the inscription on the last-found Matlock
pig, but as it was founded, more largely than usual, on
conjecture, we prefer the following simpler one as more
helpful. By understanding " plumbum " as an additional
word at the beginning, the interpretation would be : " The
lead of P. Rubrius Abascantus of the mine of Lutudarum."

In the early periods of lead mining in Derbyshire, the
ore was smelted on the top of western brows of high
hills, f by fires made of wood, and blown by the wind

* Daily Graphic, April i8th, 1890.
t Farcy, I., 380-81 and 384-5.

283

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

only, as is supposed, piles of stones being made round the
fire and perhaps arches formed underneath them, to favour
and increase the effect of the wind on the fire. These
ancient hearths were called boles, whence many of the
highest hills in and near to the lead districts obtained
their names. The last of these old hearths remained in
use at the north-west end of Great Rowsley village till
1780, long after they had been elsewhere disused.
Anciently the miners claimed the right of cutting wood
and timber for the use of the mines, and perhaps for
their smelting also, not only from all wastes and forests
within the King's field, but from any other of the King's
forests, and there were people still living at Matlock in
181 1 who had assisted in fetching timber under this
privilege from Needwood Forest, in Staffordshire, for the
use of their mines in Matlock.* At a meeting held at
Bakewell in 1851, it was made a subject of complaint by
the miners that they were formerly supplied with timber,
but now had to provide their own, and on that and other
grounds they appealed for a reduction of the lead duties
payable by them as " lot and cope."

Farey gives a list of ancient boles or lead-hearths, which
includes one each at Matlock, Cold-harbour in Lea, and
Cromford Moor, south of the bridge.

The moulds were holes cut in the ground to the desired
shape, and the presumption is that a layer of clay, bearing
an impression of the required inscription, would be placed
in the bottom of the mould. The pigs were not cast
at one operation, but at many times, each one being

* Mr. G. Toft, Barmaster, Youlgreave, on seeing this statement in
print, wrote that the boles were not always on hill tops, as that
at Rowsley was in the valley, that place being built on the slag.
Farey, whom we follow, was referring to very early times. The
Rowsley smelting furnace was comparatively recent.

284

THE LEAD-MINING INDUSTRY.

formed of numerous layers, each layer representing a
distinct inpouring of the molten metal. This is proved
by the lines on the sides and ends of the pigs when
completed. The terms " top " and " bottom " are applied
to the perfect pig as it lies with the inscribed side upper-
most, but the inscription would be at the bottom of the
mould, which widened towards the top to allow of the
mass being easily lifted out when cold.

The Saxons, who succeeded the Romans as lords of
Britain, did not, it may safely be assumed, neglect the
metallic treasures so abundant in the parish and county.
The working of the mines was, in all probability, con-
tinuous down to modem times, though the evidence of
the fact is meagre. In 714, Eadburga, abbess of Repton,
who was daughter of Adulph, King of the East Angles,
and to whose convent the mines in the neighbourhood
of Wirksworth belonged, sent to Croyland, in Lincoln-
shire, for the interment of St. Guthlac, a sarcophagus of
lead lined with linen. In the year 835, Kenewara, then
abbess of the same nunnery, made a grant to Humbert,
the alderman, of her estate of mines called Wircesworth,
on condition that he gave annually as a rent to Arch-
bishop Ceolnoth lead to the value of three hundred
shillings for the use of the Cathedral Church of Christ,
Canterbury. It has been suggested that on the destruc-
tion of the religious houses by the Danes in 874, the
lead mines became the property of the Crown, but the
more likely presumption is that the Crown always had an
interest in them as the supreme lord of the soil. This
view is supported by tradition and some evidence. It is
a fact that the kings of England were always jealous of
their rights in the mines and minerals, and several of
them, after the Conquest, would not suffer the mines to

285

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

be wrought The title of the King's Field applied to the
lead-mining district of Derbyshire implies the ownership
of the Crown, and down to the middle of the last century
the workings in the lead mines were governed by customs
sanctioned by the Crown, and not by statute law.

In the year 1246, Henry III. issued a writ of inquiry,
which was executed at Ashbourn, the result being that it
was given for the King that the mines in the High Peak,
in the county of Derby, were the prerogative of the Crown,
and not the property of those who had, by long custom,
worked them.

In the sixteenth year of Edward I. (1288) another royal
writ of inquiry was issued. This was addressed to the
Sheriff of the County, and intimated that the King had
appointed Reynold of the Ley (Lea) and William of
Memill (Meynell) "to inquire by the oaths of good and
lawful men, of your county, by the which the truth may
be best known, of the liberty which our miners do claim
to have in those parts, and which they have hitherto
been used to have, and by what means, and how, and
from what time, and by what warrant"* The writ fur-
ther appointed the inquiry to be held at Ashbourn, on
Saturday next after the Feast of the Holy Trinity, and
it was held accordingly, the customs proved, and the
writ, with copies thereof, returned to the King. The
result was that His Majesty suffered the miners to enjoy
the ancient privileges of their own laws and their mines
during his pleasure. No further order was made till the
third year of Edward VI. (1550), when an inquisition was
held at Wirksworth, and the miners' privileges were again
confirmed. Some seven years later, in the 3rd and 4th of
Philip and Mary, the like process was repeated.

* Glover's Derbyshire, I., appendix, 35.
286

THE LEAD-MINING INDUSTRY.

Queen Elizabeth established her prerogative by granting
all mines and minerals in her dominions to the two
corporations of the " Mines Royal " and " Battery Works "
for ever, with power to grant leases. This arrangement
was upset by the Cromwell i an revolution ; but Charles II.,
after the Restoration, nursed these societies. William III.
granted to them all minerals of lead, etc., but in the same
reign an act was passed to prevent disputes and contro-
versies concerning royal mines, enacting that all persons,
subjects of the Crown, owning any mine, wherein any ore
was or might be discovered, should and might hold,
enjoy, and work them.

During all this time (1550 — 1692) the miners of Derby-
shire and Matlock in particular continued to work under
the articles embodying their customs and privileges, until
these came to be spoken of as laws. These "laws"
applied to the King's Field, comprising the Hundred of
High Peak and the Wapentake of Wirksworth or Low
Peak, with the exception of GrifFe Liberty, near Hopton,
some estates near Eyam, etc., and extended also to the
mines in Crich with some modifications, although that
place is situate in Morleston Hundred. Matlock, of
course, is in the Wapentake of Wirksworth, and three
to four miles distant from the town of the same name.

By the laws or customs referred to any man or set of
men was authorised to enter at any time on any part of
the King's Field, comprising the greater portion of the
mountain limestone district of Derbyshire, and there dig
and search for veins of ore without being liable or
accountable to the owners or occupiers of the soil
for any damage they might do on the surface. As
Edward Manlove, once steward of the Barmote Court of

287

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

Worksworth, pots it at the opening of his celebrated
rhraed chrcnic-e: —

* By eastern oid in Wixkswortfc Wapentake,
If xar cf tkis Nation find a rake,
Or sigx. - ? Lea*5ag* to the same may set,
la aay grewnd, and there lead ore mar get :

Tney sit make Crosses,, Holes, and set their Stows,
Sink Skxfts. boiSd Lodges, Cottages, and Coes ;
Bk Cknrckes, Honses, Gardens, all are free
Fr?a :k» strange Cnstom of the Minery."

In the several liberties of the King's Field, an officer
with the title of Barmaster was appointed, and Mineral
Coots. cal>d Barmotes. held — those for Matlock and the
Wapentake at the Moot Hall, Wirksworth— at which a
fcy of Twenty-four miners decided all questions respecting
the duces cr cope payable to the King or his Farmer, and
to the working cf the mines by those to whom the Bar-
TTMsaer had given possession, and even decided on and
enforced the payment of debts incurred in the working of
the mines, such as a share of the proceeds or costs of
working due to or from a partner in a mine. If a person
took a mineral cause into another court, he was to lose
in the controversy and pay all costs.* These courts were
to be he'd twice in the year, about Easter and Michael-
mas respectively, and provision was made for calling a
sjweii! court en ten days* notice. The Barmaster or his
depcty was to erect a pair of stocks within his division,
at the cos: of the Lord of the Field or his Farmer, " by
the bene::: arising out of the fines/' and "such persons
as sweJLi. curse* or commit any other misdemeanour on
the mirse. tit to be punished in the stocks, the Barmaster
shall punish such offenders any time under the space of

* rW .Y:«t> £«?i/. by William Hardy, Sheffield, 1748, p. 82.
288

THE LEAD-MINING INDUSTRY.

twelve hours, as the offence shall require." In case of
one not paying his fines or forfeitures, he is to be put
in the stocks with a paper on his back shewing his offence.

At a Great Barmote Court held at Wirksworth for the
Soke and Wapentake on the ioth October, 1665, fifty-nine
articles, each embodying a custom or part of one, were
passed by the jury, and these were from time to time
added to till in 1720 they numbered sixty-three.* From
these it appears that by ancient custom the miners and
merchants at first themselves chose the Barm aster " to be
an indifferent person betwixt the Lord of the Field or
Farmer and the miners, and betwixt the miners and mer-
chants " ; but later, the Barmasters were appointed by the
Farmers of the duties under the Crown, these having been
for generations in the High Peak the Dukes of Devon-
shire, and in the Wapentake the Arkwrights, of Willersley.
A list of the predecessors of the latter is given at the end
of the next chapter; both have now surrendered their
leases, the Duke of Devonshire's having ended in 1896.
There are no longer any profits. The Chief Barmaster
was paid by salary, the others, styled Deputy Barmasters,
by perquisites or fees.

The methods of discovering veins of lead ore were
various, but the practical miner was led to believe where
a vein was likely to be found by the nature and quality
of the ground and stone, and he then searched for the
outstripping of the vein at the surface, t A miner or
other person having found a vein of ore made certain

* The Miner's Guide, p. 91.

t A superstition of the miners, in addition to the use of divining
rods, was that certain atmospheric phenomena, denominated " burning
drakes" by the vulgar, indicated by their apparent fall to the earth
the situation of rich and undiscovered veins of ore.

19 289

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

crosses on the ground as a mark of temporary possession,
and then went and informed the Barmaster, who attended
and received a measure or dish of ore, the first produce
of the mine, as the condition of permitting him to proceed
in working his truer or measure of ground, 29 yards in
length, the Barmaster at the same time taking possession
of the next adjoining 14$ yards or half-meer on each side
of the vein for the King. And if the vein seemed pro-
mising, it often happened that at the same time, or soon
after, there were various applicants to be admitted each
to free his meer, or twenty-nine yards of the rake vein in
succession. It was a condition that each person or
company possessing their meer or meers in partnership,
called groove-fellows,* should immediately begin and
continue to work at their mine, as in case of intermission
for three successive weeks, the Barmaster was authorised
to dispossess them and give the mine to another on request
being made to him to do so.

As these first mines were all in districts where the
limestone had no other cover but the soil, each miner
went to work, and with mattocks or picks, and with
hammers and iron wedges in the harder veins, loosened
the ore, spar, and stone, and threw them out on to a
ridge on each side of the vein. He proceeded thus to
sink and throw out the vein-stuff as deep as was prac-
ticable; then a square frame, composed of four narrow
planks of wood, crossed and pinned together at the
corners, was laid down ; on this two uprights, one on either
side, were erected, with holes or notches at the top to
receive the spindles of a turn-tree or rope-barrel for
winding up the ore in small tubs, called kibbles. This
apparatus, called a stowse, being erected on the surface,

* Groove = mine.

290

THE LEAD-MINING INDUSTRY.

over the opening to the mine, the sinking was further con-
tinued, and the heaps on the sides of these open works or
open casts increased until in many instances a perpen-
dicular ditch of the width of the vein, and many yards
deep, was opened, with proportionally large heaps of
rubbish on each side for many hundred yards in length,
with other similar veins and heaps parallel to and crossing
them at certain angles.

Great numbers of the mines thus opened proved too
poor in their produce of ore to be sunk lower than men
could throw out the earth and debris before the miners
abandoned them, and others, after some progress had
been made in deepening them by the use of the stowses,
were also given up. But as in after times other adven-
turers might appear who would resume the work, the
strictest laws were made and enforced by the Mineral
Courts for preventing the occupiers of the soil or any
other persons from meddling with the dangerous ditches
or throwing in the unsightly heaps of barren white spar
and rubbish which the miners had left on the land. Some
of these shallow mines, opened apparently in the very
earliest periods of mining in Derbyshire, still existed at
the beginning of the last century, and even yet indenta-
tions of the surface remain to show where these fruitless
searches had taken place, as, for instance, on Ember
Hill, on the shoulder of Masson, above Matlock Bath.
As the mines which proved richer in ore increased in
depth, instead of continuing to draw all the vein-stuff to
the surface, the miners constructed floors or stages of
wood called " bunninges," across the mine just above their
heads, and on to these threw much of the refuse for the
whole length of their mines, which thus became covered
over, except at the foot of the shaft, immediately under

291

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

the stewses or drawing apparatus. The shaft was lined
with either timber or stone, usually the latter, and such
vein-stuff as was brought to the surface was thrown down
the nearest brow or slope forming the mine-hillock.

On the hillock, near each shaft, small buildings called
coes, used as shelters and for storing tools and appliances,
were by right erected. In these the miners kept and
changed their working clothes. Here, also, the lead in
preparation was stored, and when fully dressed measured
and sold.

As the miners delved deeper and deeper, following the
vein, they often came to water in the strata, the drawing
oj which, in addition to the ore and vein-stuff, so increased
the expense that many valuable mines were abandoned on
thai account, until horse-gins were erected for drawing the
cw aai waaer. and soughs for draining off the water to
!ow« levels began to be driven. On some of these soughs
**arge suns, aa arming to ^30,000 (Yate-stoop, Winster),
-^xcc Meerstrook. Wirksworth), and ,£50,000 (Hill-car,
Dariey :o Y»x;".gieave\. were expended, but none of them
eracs in Matkvk. To meet this expenditure the owners
Likely to be benefited united, consolidated their mines,
and contributed each their share.

Consequent on these consolidations the mining laws,
which had hitherto required a working stowse and its
actual use at least once in three weeks in drawing ore on
each meer of ground, were now relaxed so far as to allow
a sxr.a*! model of a stowse. with a frame some six inches
square and uprights six inches high, provided by the
Rannas:er. to be fixed on or near the entrance to each
sh*:\ for :he purpose of keeping possession of all the
rceers 0: a consolidated mine beyond the one in use.

2 9 2

THE LEAD-MINING INDUSTRY.

When horse-gins and even steam engines came into use
the custom of setting up these diminutive stowses, "in
sight of all men," as the laws expressed it, was still rigidly
enforced, on or within a certain distance of the drawing-
shaft. The laws of the King's Field punished by fines
all persons detected in removing or destroying the Bar-
master's stowses, though placed in the middle of a culti-
vated field, on a common (attached to a tree or stake), or
on the fence wall adjoining a public road, the latter
situation being commonly used. Sometimes the grazing
horses and cattle threw them down and trod them to
pieces, but oftener they were taken away by travellers
posting along the roads, or their servants, to be kept and
exhibited as curious memorials of the folly or superstition
of the inhabitants.* These model stowses to be effective
must have no nails in their structure, but be pinned
together with wooden pegs, according to the state of
actual stowses. The miners had to be very particular,
at short intervals, to replace all such of their stowses
denoting possession as were broken or gone.

In case a known unoccupied vein crossed the choicest
paddock which a farmer had, or even his garden, or
the park of a gentleman within the King's Field, he must
take it of the Barmaster, by the payment of a dish of
ore, and erect the sham or model stowses, and even a
real one, and make periodical attempts, however slight or
colourable they might be, to work the vein; or in his
default, any other person might, by application to the
Barmaster, and after due notice given, dispossess him of
such vein, enter on his lands and dig and delve, erect

•Farey, I., 361.

293

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

coes, make buddle-ponds — the process of washing the dirt
from the ore being called huddling, and the sludge being
run off with the water into ponds — ways and roads therein,
governed only by the mining customs or laws.

The King, or his Farmer of the Mineral Duties, seldom
worked his meer of ground allotted on the first freeing
of a mine, but usually this was valued by two or three
experienced miners nominated by the Barmaster, and it
was offered to the finder or owner of the Founder's Meer,
at a price varying from j£i to ^ioo, according to circum-
stances, and generally purchased by him and worked with
his other meer or meers. On re-starting any old work no
ground was allotted to the King.

It was important that the miner should have a road
to and from his ground, and this was duly provided for
in the laws. By Article 14 the Barmaster or his deputy
was enjoined to lay forth the nearest way from the mine
to the highway for going and coming and carrying to
and from the site. This was done in the following
manner. The Barmaster took with him two of the twenty-
four jurymen, and walking between them with his and
their arms extended, holding hands, they walked direct to
the nearest and most convenient place on the King's high
road, pricking down pegs or stakes on each side as they
went along, and within those stakes the miner had his
right of road.

If any miner should be killed or damped (i.e., injured
by fire-damp or explosive gas) upon any mine, or within
any groove, neither escheator, Coroner, nor other officer
ought to meddle therewith but the Barmaster or his
deputy. If any person robbed a mine under the value of

294

THE LEAD-MINING INDUSTRY.

i3£d. the Barmaster was to punish the offender in the
stocks or otherwise; but if the value stolen was more than
i3id., then it was regarded as felony, and was to be dealt
with accordingly.

The miners washed the lead-bearing material from the
mines, which, when from the rock, was first broken small,
in vats or buddle troughs. When the miner left his work
of washing the heavy matter settled to the bottom of these
vats, and in time the water standing on the top would
appear to have become quite clear and harmless; but
being impregnated with lead, cattle drinking the water
were liable to contract a malady known as belland. In
unenclosed places, therefore, it was dangerous to leave the
vats uncovered. It was consequently enjoined in the
customs or laws that miners should leave their vats close-
covered, and only run off the water into such places as
the Barmaster or his deputy should appoint.

The eleventh article of the Wirksworth Wapentake
was to the effect " that the Lord of the Field or Farmer
should at all times provide and keep betwixt merchant,
buyer, and seller, a just and right measure or dish accord-
ing to the ancient gauge, and such a number of them as
should at all times of the year conveniently measure all
such lead ore as is gotten in the Wapentake of Wirksworth ;
and such dishes ought to be sized every quarter of a year
by the brazen dish, in presence of four or more of the
Grand Jury or Twenty-four, and for a pain every time
failing herein to forfeit three shillings and fourpence."
The dish here referred to was a rectangular unlidded box,
28 inches long, 6 inches wide, and 4 inches deep, and of
the capacity in the Low Peak, including Wirksworth, of

295

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

14 pints. In the High Peak 16 pints were reckoned
to the dish, and these measures remain. The brazen dish
referred to is a standard dish formed in the reign of
Henry VIII., and set up in the Moot Hall at Wirksworth,
where it still remains, secured by chains to the fabric.
The inscription which it bears on its sides sufficiently
explains its object, namely : " This dishe was made the iiij
day of Octobr the iiij yere of the Reigne of Kyng Henry
the viij . before George Erie of Shrowesbury Steward of
the Kyng's most honourable household . and also steward
of all the honour of Tutbery . by the assent and Consent
aswele of all the Mynours as of all the Brenners within
and adioynyng the lordshyp of Wyrkysworth percell of the
said honour . This dishe to Remayne In the Moote hall
at Wrtiysworth hangyng by a cheyne So as the mchauntes
or mynocrs may have resorte to ye same at all tymes
v mike the trw mesure art the same." A projecting
HjBkVie, flush with the upper edge, at each end of the dish,
hears the lion rampant as in the royal arms of Henry VIII.

According to the custom ascertained at Ashbourn, and
which had existed fc time out of memory of man/' the King
received as his tribute the thirteenth dish of ore, called
the lot; but at the beginning of the nineteenth century
every twenty-fifth dish only was set aside by the Barmaster
as the King's. Where a mine was liable to contribute to
a sough or drain an additional one-sixth was taken for
that, and for tithe, apparently limited to Wirksworth,
though attempts were made to establish the right to it
elsewhere, one-fortieth more.*

A curious provision (Art IV.) was that according to

•Farcy, I., 365.

296

THE LEAD-MINING INDUSTRY.

the custom of the times within the Wapentake, grooves,
shafts, or meers of ground were an estate of inheritance,
and descended to the heirs and assigns of the owners, and
wives had dowry in them.

It was a superstition of the miners that whistling in a
mine would frighten away the ore or lessen the chance of
the continuance of an ore-bearing vein. Hence no man
or boy must whistle in a mine on pain of severe chastise-
ment The basis of this belief was the fact that sometimes
as the vein was followed up all lead ore would disappear
from it; it would, as the miners phrased it, become
"blind," and consequently unremunerative, till, after
working some time on "the dead horse," ore was found
again further on in the vein.

297

CHAPTER XIV.

THE LEALVMIXIXG INDUSTRY.

The Customs embodied nc Law— Decline of the Industry—
Fencing or Disused Mines— Mines in this Parish — Under
the Hkh Toe— The Weir— Bullace Tree Mine— Other
Minerals— Mixers* Festival— Miners as Royal Bodyguard
and Sappers—Tithe or Lead— Smelting — Lead Measures
and Weights— Lessees oe Farmers of the Lot and Cope
—Steward and Baemastee.

IN the Session of 1851, a Bill was introduced into the
House of Lords " to define and amend the mineral
customs of certain parts of the High Peak, in the
county of Dferby." That Bill having been passed, on the
6th of tXtober in the same year, a meeting, convened on
the requisition of Francis Hurt, Charles Hurt, William
Milnes* Charles Milnes, Joshua Wass, Robert Cresswell,
W. Cantreil, W. Wright, and F. G. Goodwin, Esqs., was
held in the Moot Hall, at Wirksworth, for the purpose of
memorialising the Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster
and the lessee of the duties of lot and cope to introduce
and promote during the nest session of Parliament a
Bill to denne and amend the mineral customs of the
Wapentake, to make provision for the better administra-
tion of justice in the Barmote Courts, and to improve the
practice and proceedings of such Courts. The meeting
was presided over by Mr. W. Eaton Mousley, solicitor,

298

THE LEAD-MINING INDUSTRY.

of Derby, steward of the Court. The proceedings dis-
closed the facts that the steward of the Court in the High
Peak had been unable to enforce his own judgments, that
he had issued a warrant, and that not only was his
executive officer resisted, but an action was brought
against him. The working miners appealed to the Court
of Chancery, and afterwards were taken to the assizes at
Derby, where they were told by the judge that the whole
proceedings of the Barmote Courts were a nullity, that
their very constitution was illegal, although apparently
sanctioned by ancient custom. In these circumstances it
was deemed desirable, in the interests of the miners in
the Wapentake, to apply for a Parliamentary enactment
in place of the ancient customs, which existed more by
the forbearance of the landowners than by any inherent
authority. The miners, of whom a large number were
present, were asked if they would have their old customs
not abridged but confirmed, and they answered unani-
mously, " We will." Formal resolutions were then passed
embodying the determination to promote a Bill and to
memorialise the Chancellor of the Duchy, and also the
lessee of the mineral duties, at that time Peter Arkwright,
Esq., of Willersley, to lend their assistance.

Steps were thereupon taken, a Bill was drawn and
introduced, and in the succeeding session passed into law.
The Act was a formidable statute of sixty-eight sections,
to which were added in a schedule twenty-nine paragraphs
embodying the newly-defined and amended customs. It
set up anew on a legal basis the Great and Small Barmote
Courts, with their officers and jurors, and in a second
schedule furnished a long series of forms for use in carrying

299

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

out the new procedure. In addition to the Soke and
Wapentake, the new law extended to the manors or
liberties of Crich, Ashford, Stoney Middleton and Eyam,
Harrington, Litton, Peak Forest, Tideswell, and Youl-
greave. Mr. Thos. Tapping, a barrister, who wrote a
treatise on the new Act, was greatly concerned to rind
that it set up and legalised customs which were at variance
with the Common Law, from which he drew the erroneous
inference that it was therefore repugnant to public utility.
No doubt the Act conferred, or rather continued, the power
to " all the subjects of this realm to search for, sink and
dig mines or veins of lead ore upon, in, or under all
manner of lands of whose inheritance they may be
(churches, churchyards, places for public worship, burial
grounds, dwelling-houses, orchards, gardens, pleasure
grounds, and highways excepted)"; but it must be
remembered that when the mining customs originated,
and for long centuries afterwards, most of the mining
would be carried out on common land, the last of the
moors and wastes in this parish not being enclosed till
the end of the third quarter of the eighteenth century
and subsequently thereto.* Moreover, lead-mining, with
the exception of a few cases, was probably never a very
lucrative undertaking, and the imposition of landowners'
dues or compensation would have put an end to it much
earlier than was the case.

According to Farey the productiveness of the mines was
declining in 1808, the supply of ore being then so greatly
inferior to what it was twenty years before that some of

•Awards made 1776 and 1784; Act passed 1780.— Glover, I.,
300

THE LEAD-MINING INDUSTRY.

the smelters shut up their works occasionally, and others
were doing but little. Notwithstanding the introduction
of horse-gins to draw the material out of the mines and
the driving of deep levels or soughs to drain them, the
lead industry gradually declined. The single adventurer,
or two or more members of a family, held on in some cases
to their occupation, but by degrees the labour of drawing
material from the now often very deep mines ceased to be
remunerative. Some of the miners then resorted to wash-
ing over again the refuse thrown down on the surface by
their predecessors, who, with their primitive methods, had
failed to secure the whole of the lead. Finally this
resource failed, and in the end mining for lead was all
but completely given up. In a Governmental return for
1899, tk e on ty Derbyshire lead mines working were given
as Great Rake, Brassington; Maiden Rake, Hucklow;
and Mill Close, Darley. The lead produced from these
and from quarries amounted in the year to 4,275 tons,
which produced, after smelting, 3,185 tons, valued at
^32,058.

An incident illustrative of the decadence of the lead-
mining industry occurred in July, 1876. On the 25th of
that month a numerous deputation of persons concerned
in lead-mining in the High and Low Peak waited upon
the Duke of Devonshire at Chatsworth to plead for some
reduction in the dues called " lot and cope " on the lead
ore got in Derbyshire. Statements were made that when
the cope groat of fourpence per load was taken it was
too much, especially on the low ores; that the earnings
of miners working on tribute were miserably small, being,
after selling their ores at 36s. per load, paying dues of

301

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

lot and cope and tithe, the cost of powder, candles, tools,
and dressing expenses, not more than six shillings per
week per man. In the course of the interview it was
suggested that the dues should be entirely suspended for
a time. The Duke took time to consider his reply, but
at once invited the deputation to luncheon.

In the mining districts the land is strewn with old shafts
sunk in search of the lead. When these were left it was
the custom of the miners to build a dome-shaped cover
of uncemented stones as a shield to the mouth of the mine.
In the course of time these covers fell in and the open
shafts became a danger to grazing animals. It was
decided on appeal by the Court of Queen's Bench, on
November 4th, 1897, in the case of Stokes (Inspector of
Mines) versus F. C. Arkwright, that the owner of the
land on which a disused lead mine is situate is liable to
securely fence it, he being interested in the minerals other
than lead remaining in the mine.

The lead mines noted by Farey* as existing in this
parish at the beginning of the last century, though some
of them were then closed, bore the following titles. —
Coal-hole Raket and Pipe,t on Masson — "The Devonshire
Cavern," Matlock Bath, of more recent years; Cornel
Rake, at Matlock Bath ; Crichman Pipe, on Masson Hill ;
Cross Rake, on the High Tor; Cumberland Mine, then
and still a cavern; Dimple, Matlock Bank, where, Farey
adds, the only mine steam-engine in the county was going

* Derbyshire, I., 252.

tA Rake vein is a straight and vertical crack or fissure in the
limestone strata filled with spar and ore, &c.

%A Pipe vein is a cavity, often nearly horizontal, between the
beds of limestone, filled in like manner, having a narrow rake vein
or rake leading from it to the surface of the stratum.

302

THE LEAD-MINING INDUSTRY.

in 1809; Gentlewoman's Pipe, near Matlock Bridge;
Granby Shaft, Matlock Bank, a trial; High Tor Rake,
near Starkholmes; Knowle's, on Masson Hill, large
caverns; Lady-gate, near Matlock Bridge; Mullet-hill, or
Stoney-way, Matlock ; Nester's or Nestus Rake, on Masson
Hill; Nether Hay, Matlock; Old Nester's, or Nestus,
Pipe, on Masson, above Matlock Bath, a very old and
formerly rich mine, presumed to be the one referred to
in Domesday, and mentioned in the account of the Manor ;
Seven Rakes, near Matlock Bridge, W., in which animal
bones and teeth had been found; Side Rake, near Stark-
holmes, the Side Mine of more recent years, approached
from Matlock Dale by crossing the Derwent, "under the
High Tor," as the local phrase is.

In reference to the last-named, on the 1st of July, 1769,
the Lords of the Manor granted to John Barber, gentleman,
and George Goodwin, miner, leave to erect water-wheels
or other machines on the east side of the river Derwent,
adjoining the High Tor Wood, for the purpose of un- y
watering the mine, the lease being for twenty-one years,
on condition of yielding one-forty-eighth part of all the
lead ore. This led to the making of the weir under the
High Tor, and of the side stream, or as the natives
formerly styled it "ghaut," to convey water to a huge
water-wheel erected on the site referred to. This wheel,
which was of 80-horse power, was intact half a century
ago, and remained so till recent years, when premises
used as a paint mill adjoining it were destroyed by fire,
on which occasion the wheel was much damaged. It was,
however, repaired, and is still in use, the mill having been
re-built by Mr. F. C. Arkwright, the owner. Glover,*

* Peak Guide, p. 112. 303

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

writing in 1829, states that a Mr. Bouthman, of Manchester,
and a Mr. Biscoe, of Wrexham, had expended ,£10,000
in mining under the High Tor, but up to that time unsuc-
cessfully. The works at this mine were ultimately
abandoned.

Another mine of importance, though more modern than
those above-named, was situate a little to the east of
Cromford railway station. On the old Ordnance plan it
was named the u New Bolus Tree " Mine, now amended
in a recent edition to u Bullestree " ; but both these
versions are incorrect, the true name being "Bullace
Tree," the bullace being a kind of acrid plum
somewhat larger than the sloe, the name of which,
at least, was formerly well-known in the locality.
Large sums of money were collected from the share-
holders in this mine, and it was energetically wrought
for many years, but always without any adequate return.
It was finally abandoned, the engine and gear removed,
and the hillock partially levelled. Smaller mines were
numerous on the limestone measures of the parish.

In mining for lead ore other minerals commercially
useful and valuable were met with and brought to the
surface. The principal of these was lapis calaminaris,
calamine, or oxide of rinc,* an important ingredient in
the manufacture of brass till the fifth decade of the last
century, when it was superseded by other material, became
valueless, and ceased to be picked out from the miners ,
refuse. Prior to that time there were works for roasting

♦The Lords of the Manor exercised rights over the mining for
this mineral, and on October 21st, 1774, leased to Robert Hurst
the right to get " calamy " within the waste lands of the Manor for
seven years at a rental of £6.—Wolley t 6660, f. 521.

3°4

THE LEAD-MINING INDUSTRY.

and huddling calamine in Cromford and Bonsall, the latter
the property of the Cheadle Brass Company. Zinc was
also found in the form of the sulphuret, called by the
miners blende, black jack, or mock ore. This generally
accompanied the lead or took its place in the veins.
Little, if any, of this ore was dressed for sale, the miners
attaching no value to it, though the brass-makers of
Sheffield are stated to have obtained black jack from
Yorkshire and to have utilised it in Farey's time. But it
is to be observed that the Mineral Laws referred only to
lead, and no other mineral could be removed without
consent of the landowner or occupier; hence the miner
was restricted in his dealings to lead alone.* This
accounts for the grant from the Lords of Matlock
Manor of permission to dig for " calamy " or calamine.
Manganese, called by the miners black wad, was found in
the mines at Matlock Bath in the form of a black friable
ore or oxide. Coal was once obtained in Lumsdale,
though it had ceased to be so, but only lately, when Farey
wrote in 1806. There is a small amount of silver com-
bined with the lead, but efforts to recover it formerly
proved costly and wasteful. Those dealing largely with
the latter metal have, however, been successful in extract-
ing the silver, as, for instance, in the case of Messrs.
Cox, of the Shot Tower Works in Derby.

In the days of prosperity the miners had their annual
festival. On the 13th of May they dressed their coes
with fresh oak branches, garlands, and other rural decora-
tions, which for one day gave these usually dull and
uninviting places a pleasant aspect. This was called the

♦Farcy, I., 364.

20 305

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

ss ho li d ay. A substantial dinner of beef, pudding,
ale was p ia iid e d on die occasion, and when the
permitted the festivity was conducted in the
open air. Mask and old songs concluded the carousals of
die day. over which die Baimasters presided. The last
record of tins festival that we have met with shows that
it was held at Wirksworth on the 15th of May, 1870, when
aboot 120 sat down to dinner, the expense of which was
borne by Mr. E. M. Wass, of Lea.

An interestmg incident connected with the miners is
that at the time of the Chril War between Charles I. and
hb Parliament, the King endeavoured to raise a body-
paid at York. The Lord Lieutenant of this county
lerusing to assist, Christopher, eldest son of Sir Charles
Fuiwood. of Fuiwood Street, Holborn, London, and
MxkDeton-by-YoolgTeaTe, was employed, though not
ostensibly, to engage the Derbyshire miners for this
particular service, in which he appears to have been
successful, as 1.100 soldiers were enlisted and assembled
at Derby. A letter, dated 12th June, 1643, under the
Royal si^n-manuaL is printed by Glover,* in which the
sernce rendered by "raiseing the Derbyshire minors for
our Hf e-suard ~ is acknowledged.

The miners were employed in war in other ways, and
the fact is recorded by De Foe,t thoueh not in entirely
complimentary terms. He says : " The Peakrills, as they
are called, are a rude, boorish kind of people, but bold,
daring, and even desperate in their search into the bowels
ctf the earth : for which reason they are often employed

• JK^r. I., Appendix, 76.

306

THE LEAD-MINING INDUSTRY.

by our engineers in the wars to carry on the sap when they
lay siege to strong fortified places."

In Matlock, Ashover, Darley, and other parishes,
expensive litigation was carried on by the clergy to set up
a right to tithe of lead, but the impost was never paid,
except in Eyam and Wirksworth. Farey states that " the
pretence of claiming tithe of lead ore is said to have been
based on the averment that the ore grew and renewed in
the vein. About the year 1780, the gentlemen miners, or
maintainers, as they were called in Wirksworth, met the
clergyman, the Rev. Mr. Tillard, and agreed on one-
twentieth as the tithe-owner's share of saleable ore, but
the working miners, when they heard of it, met and unani-
mously resolved to pay no more than one-fortieth, which
the clergyman accepted without further dispute, and
which continued to be paid until the mines came to a
standstill."

Whenever any stealer of lead was detected he was
severely punished. Pilkington* records that the third act
of stealing from the lead mines was by a law of Edward I.
punished by a hand of the criminal being nailed to a
table. In that position he was left without meat or drink,
having no means of freedom but employing one hand to
cut off the other.

There have long been lead-smelting furnaces at Lea,
just outside, and abutting upon, the stream which divides
Matlock from that place. Glover mentioned a furnace
here in 1830, when it belonged to Messrs. Alsop, who, he
said, were the greatest smelters of lead ore in the county.
This cupola, as it is sometimes called, which passed later

* History of Derbyshire^ II. , 57.
3°7

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

into the hands of Messrs. Wass, whose trustees and repre-
sentatives still own and work it, is now the only active one
in the county. It is kept open by the supply of ore coming
from the Mill Close Mine, which was purchased in 1859
by the late Mr. E. M. Wass, a most enterprising and
successful owner, who invested much capital in the
development of the mine. He died in 1886, but the ore
has been won without cessation, and carried to Lea for
smelting. In November, 1886, subsequent to Mr. Wass's
death, the mine was put up for sale by auction but not
sold. On that occasion the auctioneer stated that the
value of the ore raised in the last seven years had been
^£127,286, and he reckoned the annual value of the
produce, if maintained at the then current level, to be
^£30,000. To arrive at this result, ^40,000 had been
spent on machinery and labour. The Lea smelting works,
described as also very profitable, were offered for sale at
the same time, but, like the mine, were not sold. These
works now comprise three reverberatory furnaces and
four Scotch hearths; also a slag furnace, where the slag
from the former furnaces and hearths is smelted over
again to extract the final metallic residue. The latter is
on the principle of an iron smelting furnace, and used with
coke and blast There is moreover a stack of brick-built
flues, shaped something like a huge hay stack without the
ridge, wherein the smoke from the furnaces and hearths
is passed to and fro and brought in contact with obstruct-
ing partitions, to deprive it of any lead that may have been
volatilised. In this " stack " the lead falls down in a fine
white dust and is gathered up and smelted again. When
in full operation these works turn out about ninety tons

of pig lead per week.

308

THE LEAD-MINING INDUSTRY.

Farey describes the measures and weights by which
lead was bought and sold with considerable particularity.
He says :* " The ore itself when dressed ready for sale,
in the Low Peak Hundred, is measured by the dish and
load, reputed to be 14 and 126 pints, of 672 cubic inches,
and 3^ cubic feet In the High Peak Hundred, the dish
and load are reputed to be 16 and 144 pints; the number
of cubic inches here I am unacquainted with. In many
instances now lead ore is weighed, and 58 lbs. avoirdupois
reckoned a dish of 14 pints; or the cwt. and ton of 120
and 2,400 lbs. is used. A Bout of ore in some places
is 240 dishes.

" Lead is weighed at the Derbyshire cupolas or smelting
houses by the mill fodder, pig, and piece of 2,820 lbs.,
352^ lbs., and 176^ lbs. ; on its shipment at Stockwith, on
the Trent, it is again weighed by the fodder of 2,408 lbs.
(the Custom House duties being payable by the ton of
2,240 lbs.); and it is sold in Hull by the fodder of
2,340 lbs., but in London by that of 2,184! "

The following is a list of some of the lessees of the
duties of lot and cope of lead and of the office of
Barmaster in the Wapentake of Wirksworth under the
Duchy of Lancaster: —

8 Edwd. IV. (1468).— Richard, Earl of Warwick; John,
Earl of Northumberland ; and others, lessees
of all the mines north of the Trent for 40
years.
13 Henry VII. (1497). — Harry Foljambe, Esq.
19 Henry VIII. (1527). — Sir Godfrey Foljambe, Knt.
28 to 32 Henry VIII.— Sir Godfrey Foljambe, Knt

♦Vol. III., 474-5-

3<>9

HISTORY OF MATLOCK.

38 Henry VIII. (1546). — Sir Anthony Babyngton, Knt

1 and 2 Philip and Mary (1554-5)- — Thomas Babyngton.

4 Elizabeth (1561). — Henry Babyngton,

9 to 20 Elizabeth (1566-77). — Richard Wendesley.

34 and 35 Elizabeth (1 591-2). — Gilbert, Earl of Shrewsbury.

41 and 43 Elizabeth (1598-9). — John Shore.

6 James I. (1608). — Gilbert, Earl of Shrewsbury.

21 James I. (1623). — Robert Parker, lessee for 31 years,
at ^72 rent, jQi 6s. 8d. for Barmaster.

7 Charles I. (1631). — Lee and Neville.
David Ramsay.

9 Charles I. (1633). — Davenport (renewal).

Charles II. — Edward Vernon, for 7 years, at ^144 for Lot
and Cope, and £2 13s. 4d. for office of
Barmaster.

17 Charles II. (1676). — Richard Prowse (lease from Queen
Catherine and her trustees for a term ex-
piring in 1763).

14 George II. (1740). — Peter (afterwards Sir Peter) Daven-
port, in reversion for a term expiring in 1763).

27 George II. (1753). — J onn Rowlls (who had married the
only daughter of Sir Peter Davenport).

30 George II. (1756). — Thomas Prowse.

7 George III. (1766). — John Glegg and Edward Lovibond

(assignees of the four leases of 1740, 1743,
1753, an d 1756, which they surrendered).

19 George III. (1778). — John Glegg (survivor).

30 „ (1789)* — The same.

44 „ (1803). — The same.

8 George IV. (1827). — Richard Arkwright (assignee in

181 1 of Glegg's lease).
3io

THE LEAD-MINING INDUSTRY.

3 Victoria (1839). — The same.

23 „ (1859). — Peter Arkwright

43 » ( I ^79). — F. C. Arkwright (lease surrendered in

i893).

The indenture of lease (under the seal of the Duchy of
Lancaster), dated 17th November, 1827, from King
George IV. to Richard Arkwright, set forth, after certain
recitals, that His Majesty, in consideration that Richard
Arkwright had surrendered a former grant, dated in 1803,
and had paid ^5,750 by way of fine and for other con-
siderations, did grant and demise to the said Richard
Arkwright all those mines of lead, with their appur-
tenances, within the Soke and Wapentake of Wirksworth,
with the duties of lead ore called lot and cope within
the said soke and wapentake, parcel of His Majesty's
Duchy of Lancaster, in the county of Derby, to have and
to hold to Richard Arkwright, his executors, administra-
tors, and assigns, from March 25th then last past, for
thirty-one years thence next ensuing, at a yearly rent of
^226 for the first seven years, and ^296 for the residue
of the term.

And His Majesty did also for the considerations afore-
said grant unto the said Richard Arkwright all that the
office called the Bearmastership, otherwise the Barmaster-
ship, etc., within the soke and wapentake of Wirksworth, in
the said county of Derby, parcel of the possessions of
the said Duchy of Lancaster, with all profits, commodities,
and advantages to the said office belonging, or in anywise
incident or appertaining; to have and to hold the said
office, and all and singular other the premises hereby last
granted and demised or mentioned or intended so to be,

KSTOBT OF MATLOCK.

it tSp'i ippumeiuntrs and every
tie said Richard Arkwright,
vfsr ct Match Luc past, for the full
wens: ixufnic and paying therefor
said urn, onto the King's
ear. the rent or sum of £± There
« of breach e s of covenant,
id be assigned, transferred, or
wsauwc jcenae mmier the seal of the Duchy
: jmf jQCKneii. or in case the said Richard
shcoid sense cr aspect so have these p r esents
«ucile»i iwoe the nscr cf the Duchy.

ripping* scans rue open die above deed it had been
aeai :aar the pane x tie batmastexship was void, becanse
toe panose ojc* aiao an interest^ as lessee or fanner,
watch was jacoinparfag with, the ifrifie* of bannaster.

r^e jinn Jt batznasoer was tonnecy that of mineral
cmnwr, uu stpericr. v that cf steward* which is for the
:»<?*( ;j*rt .m vsupacim. ct the prmnpal jnrfirial fonctions
j* jm :utnMr -rtfice> As an illustration of this, it may
>e mshwuw that hj dae inh section of the Act of
cs^: jhf rt^qt jt vTharies Cade, of Matlock Bath, then
:*ttmttfettn» v j^vint ae reward is d ist in c tly r e se r v e d to
3iur» x-^tovr wica every jther n^ht or privilege as
tannawr- :fciU *«en then, the steward was the principal
macs*, aai. mmsascal jdtcer connected with the mineral
cvura ani ^csa.*nnk mc die Act eves him precedence
11 presercoar tae aaaier cr h» appointment and his
aaces. ±e ^ri secern iiiarrnic that after the joch June,

THE LEAD-MINING INDUSTRY.

1852, the Queen and her successors may nominate and
appoint as steward a barrister or a solicitor by letters
patent under the seal of the Duchy. Formerly it was
the duty of the barmaster to preside in the Barmote
Courts and decide the causes of the miners. When,
however, such causes involved either large sums of money
or important principles, it was usual for the Crown or
its lessee to depute some person of the legal profession,
having a perfect knowledge of the mineral customs, to
be virtual judge of the courts, though nominally only
assistant to the barmaster. Afterwards stewards were
appointed during the former's pleasure only, and many
cases of arbitrary dismissal from such office are on record.
Ultimately, however, the office of steward was made
permanent. The office was, when Manlove wrote (1649),
perfectly well acknowledged and understood, the functions
being thus early nearly the same as those pertaining to
the office more recently.

The position of barmaster, when the mines were being
generally wrought especially, was one of great trust and
confidence. Anciently this official was chosen and elected
by the free suffrages of all the miners, his election being
confirmed by the king; afterwards the king for the time
being claimed and exercised the nomination to the office,
and the lords of the several manors, following the regal
example, ultimately also appropriated the miners' right
of election as their own. Among the duties of the bar-
master were " to see that the duties of lot and cope, etc.,
are properly measured and accounted for to the lord";
and also "to be indifferent and to do justice between
miner and miner, miner and adventurer, and miner and

3*3

r. a.

— 5. i. aJ: SC

fcp-

Bt»t. it

Brad R»r*s

Bfeaqge HaZ

&a^» ... 96, 97,

Bnggs. Miu E. ... 233,
Bngk:s & Woods

Scfcoo^ 231, 240,

lie

ifWMg

J*3

llrrtii:

*94>

IQ2
*34

"7
*39
*44
119

237
*95
3<H
110

130

2*^3-35. Va^xr-rc ..

l5c~-S

250

?°*

243

»- "°3

*>*? *5"

■r far bru« making 304

1 Xinm 5

ig, L*dr 21

... 285

::: 3 £

...246

... 273

CMfa^ MkkacJ ..

Carrier. 1S14

Carrrer, Jennett

Cat "Tor —

Cattle Market

Cavendish, Lord Edward,

M.P 7i,

— . Sir William

Ii6

*37
17

INDEX.

PAGE

Cavendish, Victor, M.P. 105, 242
Cawdor Bridge 51

— Quarries ... 107, 118
Cemetery, a proposed ... 40

, Matlock Bath and 41

Ceolnoth, Bishop 285

Chancellor of the Duchy 298

Chantrey 277

Chapel at Cromford Bridge 102

Chappell, John 244

—3 Kev. J. 244

Chappells of Riber ... 245

Charles I. 252, 306, 310

Charles II. ... 287, 310

Chatsworth, 152, 153, 155, 156

Chaworth, Miss 130

Cheadle Brass Company... 305

Cheetham, J. F 71

Chesterfield Road 94

Chippett, Rev. J. W. ... 247
Christmas 112

— at Smedlcy's 226

Church, Last Service in

Matlock Old 28

, The Mother, altera-
tions of, 1636 34

, as now 28

, Baptistery of ... 30

, Bells of ... 39, 40

, Benefaction Boards 30

, Chancel of ... 28

, Churchyard enlarged 41

, described 26

, early history ... 33

, Font of 30

, Funeral Garlands at 31

, Income of Rectory

33. 34. 43

, Inventory of Goods 34

, Lectern at 30

, Mr. A. O. Hemming

decorates 29

, Monuments in, 35-39

» Organ at, re-built 30

, Patron Saint of ... 43

, Patronage of ... 34

, re-built and re-
opened 28

, Rectors of, 34, 35, 42, 43

PACK

Church, Relics 35

, the South Aisle re-
built 27

, Stained Windows, 31,

, Tithes to 51

, Tower of 27

, Views of 27

Churches 53

Churchyard, the Matlock,

enlarged 41

Civil Parishes 53

Clark, Daniel 44

Clarke, J. S 68

— , Mr., K.C. ... 250

Cliff, Robert 38

Coal 305

Coarse Fish 86

Coat Close 245

Coes 288, 292

Collinson, C. 234

— , Miss 234

Collumbell, Robert ...252

Commons 90-92

— enclosure 300

Congregational Chapel ... 236
— , Chapel, The Green ... 70

Coningsby 252

Conservative Club ... 70

Constable & Co. ... 107, 118
Convalescent Home ... 237

Conveyances in 18 14 ... 66

Cooper, Henry 84

Copley, Serjeant 250

Copyholders owners of the

Manor 8

, Rents of the, 9, 10

vest Manor in Trus-
tees 8

Cork, Bishop of 245

Corn and Flour, 1800 ... 66

— Mills 106

Coronation of King Ed-
ward VII 101

Cotton Manufacture ... 254

, growth of the ... 267

Coumbs Wood 18

County Council, 98-101, 182-184

— Court 54, 56

317

INDEX.

PACK

County Surveyor ... 99-101
Cox, Rev. Dr., 5, 30, 33, 35, 41

103, 249.
Cox's Shot Tower ... 305

Crank and Comb 265

Cresswell, R 298

Cromford, 5, 57, 63, 69, 94,

95» ">3» io 4, «o» I".

124, 126, 137, 170.

— Bridge

and Langley

Road

Chapel

House

— Cemetery

— Church ... 103,
— , Manor of

— Market

— Mill Dam

— Old Village ...

— Rocks

— Sough

— Wharf ...
Cromlech at Riber
Crown, The, and

Mines
C run ford c, berewick

Wirksworth
Cumming, Capt. Wm
Custom of the Mines

101, 126
Mill

••• 94

... 102

... 278

274, 278

... 19

... 280

... 262

... 280

... 262

... 104
248

the
of

285
5

Darcy, Sir T.

Darley

— Dale

— , Robert de

Darwin, Dr. ... 138,

Darwin on Arkwright ...

Davenport

Davies, Ralph

Davies's Derbyshire
Davis Tradition, A

Dawes, Sir D

Death and Funeral of Mr.

J. Smedley
Decline of Lead Mining... 300
De Ferrars and the Manor 7

De Foe 125, 306

Delaval, 39; J. H. ... 39
— , Susannah 39

... 269

5. 6, 63

69, 72

116

310

222

360

.. 230

PACK
6

•5> 7
.. 51
.. 72

.. s
5

Dereleie

Derwent River
— , Course of

— Frozen

Dethick and Lea ...

— and Lede
Devonshire, Duke of, 68, 105',

116, 149, 152, 155, 156,

289, 301.
Discovery of veins of lead 289

Dish 295-6

Domesday Book and Survey

i-5» 7
Drabble, T. Cooper 100, 240

— , Walter 107

Duchy of Lancaster, 7, 8, 250,
298, 309, 311, 312.

Dumn, A 69

Dunbar, Thos 37

Dupr6, Dr. ... 210, 211
Duty on Calicoes 264

Eadburga, Abbess
Ecclesiastical Parishes ...
Edmund, Earl of Lancaster

Edward I

Edward III

Edward IV

Edward VI. ... 17,

Edward VII

Electric Power Company...

Elizabeth Reg. ... 252,
Elliott, Dr. J. ... 212,

Ember Hill

Enclosures ... 91

English Sewing Cotton
Company

Era of Invention

Essovre

Esseburne, Manor of

Evans, Anthony

— , George

— , John ,

— , Walter M. Shore
Evanses of Allestree, etc,

Fairs

Falding

Farley

285
286

286

101
76

253
219
291
. 92

267
255

3.1

20
20
20
20
20

INDEX.

PAGB

Farmers of the Lot and

Cope 288, 289, 309

Farnsworth, R •. 241

Fern, Rev. Joseph ... 37

Ferries, Matlock 70

Fifth of November ... in
Fire in Dale Road ... 77

Fisher, W. Sealy 3x4

Fish fry destroyed 86

Fitz-Ralph, Hubert ... 18

K" ::: ::: .. 79 11

Flour-milling 106

Flax Spinning Mills ... 106
Foljamoe, Godfrey ... 17

—> Harry 309

— , Sir Godfrey 309

Folk-lore dragon 117

Footbridge ... 70, 80

Ford at Cromford ... 103

Foster, Rev. R. A. ... 236

Freeholders in Matlock, 17, 18

Frost Accidents 72

Fulwood, Christopher ... 306
— , Sir C 306

Galton, Fanny Jane

Garratt, Thomas

Garton, John ... 106,

Gas Company, Matlock and
Distnct

— , for Matlock

Gell, Philip

Gem of the Peak, The ...

General Power Distribu-
ting Company

Gent, Elizabeth

Geological Bases of the
Parish

George II.

George III.

George IV.

Gisborne's, Rev. Francis,
Charity

Glegg, John

Glover, Stephen

Glover's Peak Guide

Godward, W

Goodwin, Dr

276

45
119

250
3

76
*45

5 1
3*°
310

110

39
213

PAGB

Goodwin, G. 303

— , F. G 298

Gordon, Augustus ... 39

— , Henrietta 39

Grange Mill 126

Granville, Dr. ... 210, 215

Grayling 86

Grazing on the hills ... 108
Great Rake, Brassington... 301

Greatorex, J. 244

Greaves, Mrs 33

Grey, Sir George 55

Grindstones 107

Gritstone Trade 107

Grouse in the valley ... 72

Guisers 112

Gunpowder Plot 1x1

Gwyllym, Capt., 37 ; Jessie 37

Hacking, Rev. E 280

Hall Lees flooded, 79, 81, 83

Promenade, The ... 74

Hall, Robert ... 64, 76

— . W 59

Hancock and Antliff ... 241

Harewood, Lord 269

Hargreave 260

— E 265

— , G 265

- J 265

Harp Edge 272

Harris, Mr. and Mrs. ... 77
Harrison Almshouses ... 73
— , Miss Margaret ... 74

— , Wm. M.D 74

Harston 241

Harward, Rev. J. ... 228

Hat-making 106

Hayes, T. 257, 258, 259

Headless Cross 119

Hedderley, G. ... 39, 40

— , Daniel 40

Heights of Abraham ... j
Hemming, A. O. ... 276

Henry II. 253

Henry III. ... 157, 253, 280

Henry V 253

Henry VI. 253

Henry VII. ... 253, 309

319

% i«

L _.

245. 252.

?AGB

... a6?

*5T tCSfJCC. W. XOl

JTJ )tl£L A- 220, 24S

•5 )nzfL LL. Trasscatk»n of
ir-. Ae Dsakeadar Record j

?f G*«t 8

SL Z^a-

.Rrr. R.M.. 6&.270.2S0
f— * 2* Qmtrm Victoria 237
J*? *9*

Krr — j^r, 2*8. 259, 261

ReV. J. "W.. 74, 240

Abbess ... 2S<

Eat? G«wt* HI 66

Kap Jak« 18, 253

tnf* Field 92, 285.

— Meer
—* Trsnse
F"itnoa, Earl of
Eckaad, W.
Kaowies and Partners
— t George

— " j HCSTT ...

-• J<*»

H m o mhum Place ...
Lace Madame*
LasceOes, £.
Lancaster, Earls of

***** * '■■■■■■■ J. ... ... iic

Rua r r cu^iac TrotBot be-

{XX 2X2

B >±r: *. =x xS66 223

IS* 6

Tbefeacs 3. 6

Iieirwxr* Acts 51

Iaoucxs aad Manufactures 106
Ixfcerr.i-x, Ban* o! ... 22
Ixscrsce *»d Parochial

Hal, The

48 i

3*o

::: 3
..169

... 74

:: '%

.. 74

6, 75
106

Landowners 16

— ™ «*T3 17

Leacroh, Brooke, 160; Cather-
ine Sophia O., 33; Miss, 18;
Richard Reedier, 32; Thos.

"d J* ** 33-
Leacrort Pedigree
Lea ... _ ...

— and HoUoway ...

— Brook

— HaD

— Hurst

— MiDs ... 19,

— Smelting Works ... JW ,
Lead Mining, Antiquity of 285

, decline of ... 300

industry ... 281.

— Moulds

... 200

.*£

... 51

... 19

19, 20

227, 229

307

INDEX.

Lead Smelting ... 284,

— Stealers' punishment...

— Weights and Measures
Lease of Lot and Cope ...
Leche, Radulphus

— , Roger

— , Sir Roger

Lee and Neville

Leedham, John

Leland at Matlock

Le Roy, Rev. G

Lessees of Lot and Cope

Levett, Mrs. S. A.

Liberal Club

Lichfield and Coventry,
Bishops of

Lime-burning

Linton, Rev. W. R.

Local Government, adop-
tion of

— Place names

Logan Stone

London and North-Western

Railway

Longfellow and Florence

Nightingale

Loom, hand

— , reed

Lord Lieutenant

Lovibond, £.

Lowe, Rev. A., 74, 232,
Lumb's Mill ... n

Lysonses' History

PAGE

307

3<>7

3<>9

269

310

236

309
279

27 t
108

107

24
256

312

«34

Macclesfield, Countess of

— , Earl of 245

Macleod, Dr 228

Maiden Rake, Hucklow ... 301
Manchester, Buxton, etc.,

Railway ... 104, 105

Manganese 305

Manlove's, £., Rhyme ... 288

Manor 1, 7, 8, 34

— , Award of xx, 16, 17

— , Brunswood 148

— , Commons in ... 90, 91
— , Copyholders in 1830... 16

TAGW

Manor, Customary of 13-16

— , Descent of 7, 8

— , Duchy of Lancaster and

7. 8

— , Earls of Derby and... 8
— , granted bv Charles I. to
Ditchfield and others,
8; re-sold to John
Middleton and others

for the copyholders 8

— , Income of 9

— , Indenture of 1700, re... 10

— , Profits of 10

— , Rent of 9

— , Sir John Statham's

Chancery Suit ... ix

— , Steward of 12

— , The Crown and ... 7, 8

— , Trustees of 12

— , Wolley's opinion ... 7

— House 13

— of Wirksworth ... 250
— , The, of Mestesforde... 2
Manufactures, Industries

and xo6

Market 56, 57

— Hall 58

Marks, G. C 238

Marsden-Smedley, A. S.... 19

, J. B. ... 69, 78

Mare, B. H. 102

Masson, 3-5, 90, 106, 132,

134-I37. 291.
— , Altitude of 51

— House 90

— Mill ... go, 261, 266
Matlock, Boundaries of

r. • 5» 46, 47

— Carner, 18x4 66

— Charities ... 43, 44, 45

— Church, 5, 7, 27-33, 270

— Churchyard 41

— , Clarke, Charles ... 312

— Coaches 66

— Common 46

— Companion, The ... 220

— Electric Power ... 76

— Floods 70

321

Local Boards ... 1S1 —
Lac Tor Cavern 150 —

mt\ L-p ... .36

— W&2s 103 • —

Limm, F. C-, 159, 1S3. . —

~Macbetfc~ m a ,—
Cavern ... 143 '

and | —

... 188 ! —

Marbie industry ... 160
MarriotL, Harry ... 165
Matt AmeSe, ea-
Queen of France 154
Mawe, Mr., tS3t *6o,
161 , 19S-

MaaweO, Wi. ... 178
Mavaard, Rev. J.
M." ... i7> *75

Mdtee, Rev. Afex-
uda ... 164, 165

Mean 17*

Medicinal properti e s

af waters »7

Machae^ Grand

Duke 155

Museum Parade ... 156
National Schools... 177

Needxs «*«

Seeds- Mr. ... 179

Nemours. Duke and
Duchess de ... «54

New B*tk, joi, J04, »6

Hotel, iaa, 135

Hotel, i57t «66

xtr. I?*-

Rev. T. M.

180, 181

Bath. Nicholas,

Grand Duke ... 155

-, Xicholay, Baron ... 155

-. XuttaH, John ... 194

-• Obelisks 161

-, Oddfellows ... 195

, Ofeky, Dr. 155

• ? Opfea'* WeJ ... 152

-, Old B*th ... 202, 203

-, Green ... 154

, Hfll ... 152

•, Hotel sale,

129, 135, 221

, Hydro. ... 221

, — Road 'to Matlock

Town 196

, Omnibus to Amber-

rate 128

, Orchard Home ... 167

, Otter, The ... 167

, Owlet Hole ... 149

, Owen, Sir Philip

Cunliffc 161

Paper Mill 196

Parish 175

, Parkinson, Mr. ... 165

, Paskenritch, General 155

Pavilion, 135, 137, 138,

194.

, Payment to Mat-

lock 182

, Pearson, Joseph ... 150

, Pearson's Well ... 152

, Pcchell, John ... 148

, PeUy, Rrr. R. P.

*73> 175

, Peters, Mr. ... 134

, — , Mrs. ... ... 194

, Petrifying Wells ... 150

, Phthisis pulmonalis,

case of 215

, Population ... i*a

Postal system ... 188

, Primitive Methodist

Chapel 181

, Princess Marguerite 154

-, — Victoria, 151,
-, Pritchett, Rev. R.

3*4

INDEX.

Matlock Bath, Promenade,

I9i» 193
, Provincial Medical

Journal, article in a 18

, Queen Adelaide ... 153

, Radford, W. H. ... 188

, Railway, effect of

the 22i

, —Station for, the Old 128

, Rateable value ... 132

, Rattenbury, Rev. J. 181

, Raynes, Jacob ... 150

Reredos 172

River, accidents on,

162, 164, 165

Roads, 124, 125, 126, 204

, Roman coins found 123

, Romantic Rocks ... 130

, Routes to and from 126

, Royal Hotel, 122, 151,

195, 206.

, Royal Visits ... 152

, Rutland Cavern ... 145

, Saxe-Weimar,

Duchess of ... 153

, Saxton, G. W.

, Scarthin

Scenery

, Scarthin Church ... 170

bcenery 132

, Scott, Rev. J., 170, 180

Season, The, Old

and Modern, 129, 131

Seedhouse 165, ife

, Sheffield, Earl and

Countess of ... 153

, Shirley, Ven. Walter 171

, Shore, Miss ... 188

, — Robert ... 196

, Sleigh, Miles ... 183

, Smedley, Peter ... 151

, Smith and Pennell 203

, Smith's Hotel ... 127

, South Weir ... 196

, Speed, F 194

, Speedwell Cavern 149

, St. Julian, Count... 155

, St. John the Baptist

Church 176

, Starkholmes, pro-
posed road to ... 182

Matlock Bath, Stokes, Mr. 191

, Strange, Dr. R. ... 174

, — , Mary Anne ... 174

, Streatfeild, Mr. ... 172

Sunday Schools

Centenary ... 200

, Synge, Rev. A. H. 175

, Temple Walk ... 123

Thermal Waters ... 201

, Thurlow, Lord Chan-
cellor 130

, Tiler, Rev. W. ... 180

, Travis, Miss, 188, 189

, Tufa, or marl, 122, 123

, Tyack, Mr. ... 102

United Methodists 181

, Upper Wood, 149, 150,

170

Urban Council, 114, 158,

159, 166, 172, 181, 191

, Use of the waters 210

, Vallance, Mr., x6x, 168

, Vernon, G. ... 197

, Vicar, The ... 158

, Victoria Prospect

Tower ... 145, 148

, Virtues of the waters 212

, Waite, Alderman... 183

, Walker, Thomas ... 16a

, Walker's Well ... 15a

, Wallis, W. W. ... 188

, Walters, Anne ... 175

, — Bequest ... 175

, Ward, Rev. R. ... 173

, Ward's Guide ... 213

, Warminster case

159, 160

Water supply, 169, 186

Waters, contents of

209, 210

, — , Method of using

the 219

, — , Virtues of ... 21a

, Well-dressings ... 193

, Were, Bishop ... 175

, Wesleyan Chapel ... 181

, Wheatcroft, S. F. 197

, White, George ... 196

, Whitehead, Rev. J. 179

3«S

IKDUL

U**xk Bath,

Aitmw 166

. — , Mrs 150

. Whyatt, J. A. ... 176

Wiid Cax Ton ... 116

. Wiiins, Miss ... 165

. Wuscm, Rct. John 1S0

. Wmjct, Mr. ... 18*

. lister, G. ... 1S9

. Wotier. Rct. John 174

. Wo>r'i Weil ... 203

. WoodkooK, Rer.

W. W. ... 175, 176

. Woodhriss, Sir A. 194

. Woyna, Cout ... 155

. Wragg. G. 197, 203

. Wright. Justice ... 159

. York, Duchess of 154

Mi* :ci Bridge 5. 4, 6, 7.
So. 04. 96, 97, 101.

. w>dening of, ... 97-100 ,

Mat:.* 2 -

Mattel:*: 2 ;

MrKerai. Canon 49 ;

Mri>r. Dr. 213

Meer :■* ground 290 j

Meersbrx* Soogh ... 292

Megcale Firm find
Mrllich. derivation of ...

Melcc Mills

Melville. Rev. W. R., 18,

2c. 32. 49.
Mesrrial window to John

Smedley 230

Meres 108

Mrslict 3-7

Mesesfccie 1-7, 23

Mftesfrrie 4

Mrch^vi 1

Mxili&i Railway ... 104, ioj !
Ml! C.^se Mire Auction... 308

FACt

Mmers as uppers ... 306

— artides or customs ...289

— dibris 291

— deputation 301

— festival 305

— free timber 284

— Royal bodyguard ... 306

— superstitions ... 287, 289

— ? wages 301, 302

Mines and minerals leased 287

302
302

286

*97
250

I 9

— in the parish
— , liability to fence
Mining consolidations

— customs ... 287,

— inquiry at Ashbourn ...

— property hereditary ...

— trial " *

Minors, R.

Mole

Monuments at Cromford,

276.278
Moor, The Diamond Jubilee

at the 73

Moore 102

— , W. M

Moot Hall ... 250, 288,

Morphy, Edmund

118 i — , Garalt 19

Mottram-in-Longdendale ... 244
I Mousley, W. Eaton ... 298

: Moion, Dr. 240

I Muffins, Mr 60

! Monro, Dr. R 213

1
266

. Dirlev 301

Mi'.res, William ... 19* *&
M:=e Thiffs punishment

Mineowrer. k^» dispos-

sesse\*
Mineral jus:
— H\s.v.' s? Great Britain 212

Narlor, John
Neal

Need, S. ...
Nesfield, R. W.
Newbould, Rer.
Nestes or Nestus
Nestor Mine
Netesforde
Newnes, Sir G.
— , Rer. T. M.
— , William
Nicholson
— , Margaret

... 78

261, 264
7?

*37.

3» 4
3

4
*3»

7 2
78

-i 291 — , Margaret

:.-=$ made law 29S Nightingale, Miss Florence,
• t>**i Britain 212 her career

::: 3

3*6

INDEX.

PACE

Nightingale, Pedigree ... 18

— , Peter 18-20, 92

Nightingales, The 18, 20

Noah's Ark Inn 126

North Midland Railway ... 128
Northumberland, John,

Earl of 309

Nottingham and Newhaven

Road 94

Nurseries 108

Nuttall, George 52

— , John 52, 66, 92, 241

O'Brien 49

Old Shafts 302

Opening of the Railway ... 101
Otter

Paint Works 108

Parker, R 119, 310

Parish Constables ... 65
— , part of, added to Tans-

„ lc 7 46

— Quarry 108

— , The Ancient Conforma-
tion of 50

— , extent of ... 52

— , Families in ... 52

— , Geology of ... 51

Parliamentary Division, The 53

Patron Saint of Matlock... 43

Paul, Lewis 250

Paxton, Lady 116

— , Sir Joseph 106

Peakrills 306

Pearson, Dr. ... 209, 211

PedigTee of Arkwright ... 272

— of Leacroft 200

— of Nightingale 18

Pedigrees of Wolley ... 249

Pennell 90, 91

Pennifather, Rev. W. ... 252

Percival, Dr. ... 209, 212
Persons employed in cotton

spinning 263

Petty Sessional Division ... 54

— Sessions 64

286, 310
... 115

8 o' *2 3
281-284

269

Philip and Mary ...
Phoebe Bown

Pig Tor

Pigs of Lead
Pierrepoint, R.

Pipe vein

Plough Monday ...
Ploughing Association
Population
Pole, John
— , of Radbourne
— , Wakebridge
Police Station, The
— , Superintendent of
Poor Lots Quarries
Possession of Mines
Post Office, Matlock
Postal arrangements and
rates, old ...

Potter, T. R

Pre-historic Burials
Price of Building Land .
Prime, Dorothy, 38 ; Thomas 38
Primitive Methodist Chapel 236
Produce of Lead Mines ... 301
Prowse, Richard ...

- T

Puerewic (Parwich)
Punishments for Miners

30a

7«

>9
19

107

290

310
310

Quarries

Queen Catherine

— - Elizabeth ... 286 t

— Victoria and Miss Night-

ingale

— Victoria's Diamond

Jubilee

107
3x0

Railway Stations ...

Rake Vein

Ramsay, David

Regrating

Reservoir, proposed new
Reservoirs at Cromford
Reynold of the Lea
Reynolds, J.
— , John, jun.

. 105

• 3 oa

: 3 £

. 60

. 261

. 286

103

• 252

327

INDEX.

raca

»4«

Riber 6, 243

— , Altitudes 243

— and the Wolleri ... 243

— Cast> ... .".. 246, 249

— Ha^ 243, 244

— Hxi: 18

Ribers. cr Ryberghs ... 243
Richard Arkwright and his

Invention ... 254

and Willersley ... 269

Richard I ... 253

Richardson. Samuel ... 91

Rider. T. P 233

Rifle Cnb, Matlock and

District 68

Ringros, Nathan 232

River Pollution 85

Roads 93-9<>

— to Mines 294

Robert de Ferrari ... 8
RobothiA. John 243

— W 244

— . M »44

Rock House, Cromford ... 266

Catholic Church ... 235
Roman Pigs of Lend, 281-283

— Roads
Rowland. C.
RovIIs. John
Rvral Deanery
Rnsswurm. Miss
Rutland Cavern
Rvtrv, Dr. ...

310
54

*3*

3
«3

Sanctuary for Birds ... 76

Santa Filomena 24

Saunders, Dt 213 :

Scarthin Xick, 53, 55, 56, 61, ■

123. 158, 176, 272. 1

— Rocks 271 :

School at the Bank ... 232 :

— Board ... aji, 239, 240 .

— Church, at Starkholmes 46 :
— . The Endowed 43, 45 ;
Scndamore, Sir Charles ... 210 =

Scutari 22 I

Sellors 244

Seiwyn, Bishop 41 '•

t%T3L

Sewerage Scheme ... 62

Shaw, James 13;

Shelmerdine, Thomas ... 35

Shore ... 20

— f John 310

— -Nightingale, Mrs. ... 19

Short, Dr 213

Shrewsbury, Earl of ... 263
— t George, Earl of ... 296
— , Gilbert, Earl of ... 310

Sidebotham, Captain ... 70

Silver 305

Simon de Montford ... 8

Simpson, Adam 277

Sing, Canon G. H. 279, 280

Sinitretone 3-6

Siiwell, E. S. W 277

Slack, E., 73, 78, 98, 240
Sleigh, Miles ... ... 54

Smaller, John 260

Smart, Josiah ... ... 107

Smedley Chapels ... 229

— Company, The, 222, 224-226
— , John, 25, 222-225, 227-231,

237, 246, 247.

— Memorial Hospital ... 231

— , Mrs 228

Smedley's first Hydro. ... 222
Smelting Furnaces ... 284 307
Smith and Pennell, 124-126
— , Job, 74, 75, 101, 237, 238,

240

Smylv, Judge 56

Smyth, Richard 102

Social Club 238

— Institute Company ... 239
Society of Friends ... 2^7
Solway Fishery Company 86

Soresby 19

Soughs, or water levels ... 292
Southwell, Bishop of 41, 43
Spas of England, The ... 210
Spateman, George 43, 45

Spinning by rollers ... 256

St. George's Hall, Liverpool 104

St. Guthlac 28 c

St. Mark's, Cromford ... 278
Stained Windows, Crom-
ford 276, 278, 279

3*8

INDEX.

PACE

Staples, John, Lord Mayor

of London 33

Starkholmes... 6, 63, 182

— Chapel 69

— School-Church ... 46
— , The Diamond Jubilee at 73

Statham 245

— , G. E., 38; L. R. ... 38

— , Sir John 11

— , Thomas 244

Steam-engines 293

Steeple Houses 124

Steward of Manor and Bar-
mote Court ... 314

Stocks 120

— for Miners 288

Stoeffs, Major 67

Stokes v. Arkwright ... 302

Story, J. Somes ... 101

Stowses 288, 293

Strutt 94

— , Jedediah, 261, 264, 266

StTUtt's Cotton Factory ... 156

Sunday School Union ... 78

Talbot, Lord 103

Tansley 5, 6, 63

— Chapelry, boundaries of 46
Tapping and Barmaster-

ship 312

— , Thomas 300

Technical School, The ... 71

Temple Hotel 20

Teneslege 3, 5

Thomas, W. 271

Thor, or Thaw-cakes ... 112
Thurlow, Lord Chancellor 130

Tillard, Rev. Mr 307

Timothy Greenwood ... 127
Tithes 51, 52

— of Lead 307

Toll-gates and tolls ... 96

Tootal, Henry 105

Town Hall 56

Tram Shelter 77

Tramway 237

Trout 84

Trustees of the Manor, The

First 8

Turner, James
Turnpike Trust
Turnpikes ...

PAGE

... 241

... 126

94-96

Ure, Dr 211

Urn and Bones found ... 118

Vernon, Edward ... 310

Victoria History 89

Volunteer Infantry 66, 67
Volunteers, Visit of Bel-
gian 67

Vole 87

Wakebridge, in Crich 18, 19

Wakebrigge, Ralph de ... 18

Wakes 109

— Cake no

Walker, Adam 66

— , William 44

W\ll 244

Wapentake of Wirksworth

54, 92, 311

Ward, John 119

— , Rev. R., 213, 216, 280

W T arm W T ells Gate 95

Warwick, Richard, Earl of 300

W T ass, E. M. 71, 306, 308

— , Joshua 298

— , Messrs., Smelters ... 308

Waterworks acquired ... 61

— , Loan for 62

Water Company and Works 59

— Diviner, A 60

— Wheel at Side Mine ... 303
Watson's agrarian region... 80
Webb, Dr., 209, 213, 214, 218

Weeks, H 277

Wendcsley, R 310

Wensley and Snitterton, 5, 63

Wesleyan Chapel 236

Wheatcroft, Leonard ... 249

Whistling in mines ... 297

Whitaker, Rev. L. ... 39

White, W 59

i wi gfcy» H. 25a

3*9

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