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VOLUME V DECEMBER, 1916 NUMBER 1
MAZAMA
A Record of Mountaineering
in the Pacific Northwest
j MAZAMA 1
NESIKA KLATAWA SAHALE
Published by THE MAZAMAS
213 NORTHWESTERN BANK BUILDING
PORTLAND, OREGON, U S. A.
Fifty Cents
At Council Bluffs, /a., in August ', 7X59, Abraham Lincoln learned from
Gen. G. M. Dodge the facts which later caused him to urge the building of
the Union Pacific — even when the country's resources were strained by war
I
F Lincoln could see this
railroad as it is today, he would be
satisfied with the fulfillment of his plan for a New
West — opened, accessible, safe. The great President
knew better than most others the value of a railroad in
the right place. He had much to do with putting the
Union Pacific where it is— in the strategic location for
greatest service, east to west and west to east.
When Congress doubted, Lincoln insisted that the Government help
build this^road, "not only as a military necessity" — as Gen. Dodge
has said — "but as a means of holding the Pacific Coast to the Union."
And this railroad, built for the sake of the Union, backed by the
White House and the approval of the whole people, has never lost
its national character.
It is truly "The Road of the Union" — tying the East and the West
together with the strong bond of perfect communication. It was
tlie first road west and is still first in everything which makes a rail-
road great and serviceable. Travelers and shippers commend the
UNION PACIFIC SYSTEM
Joins West and East with a Boulevard of Steel
WM. McMURRAY, General Passenger Agent
CITY TICKET OFFICE, WASHINGTON STREET AT THIRD
PORTLAND
III ill
Over 8000 Climbers
There are over 8000 persons who are
climbing upward in life's business
battle doing their banking with us.
Your account will be welcome, too.
LUMBERMENS
NATIONAL BANK
Fifth and Stark
Capital and surplus $1,200,000
The Mazamas are the most
cosmopolitan people on earth.
They are found in every walk of life
SOME MAZAMAS OWN AUTOMOBILES
You will want auto supplies. We have them.
SOME MAZAMAS TOUR ON MOTORCYCLES
We have everything you will need in this line.
SOME MAZAMAS RIDE BICYCLES
We carry the best bicycles; also supplies and repairs.
ALL MAZAMAS NEED OUTING SUPPLIES
We carry some of the necessary articles for your mountain climbing.
Drop in any time and make yourself at home
Our Salesmen will take pleasure in assisting you
We are just a little way down Broadway from the Club
Broadway at Oak Street BALLOU & WRIGHT
AN OPTIMIST
is a person who doesn't care
what happens so long as he
is insured in the
NEW ENGLAND MUTUAL LIFE
INSURANCE COMPANY
Founded 1835
Many Mazamas are optimists
ALFRED F. PARKER, Special Agent
329-331 Northwestern Bank Building
Pioneer
Bank
of the
Northwest
In Life's Great
Uphill Climb
men master the financial obstacles
and problems of business through a
sound banking connection. It is a
safe guide to success.
Although this is a big institution,
we are sincerely interested in giving
individual service to every depositor,
regardless of the size of his account.
Talk your plans and business prob-
lems over with us.
LADD & TILTON BANK
Washington
and Third
PORTLAND
OREGON
M AZ AM A S
Meres Good News !
YOU can supply all your outing needs
right here in Portland. Below we give
a partial list of reliable equipment carried
all the time in our Sporting Goods Shop. We have
many other wanted outdoor accessories not listed here
and can secure for you on very short notice any
further articles desired. Prices are uniformly low and
the quality is always of the most dependable order.
Duxbak Clothing
Kampit Clothing
Patrick Mackinaws
Leather Coats, Jackets
and Vests
Tan Sheeting, Jackets
and Overalls
Oilskin Clothing
Whale Back Shirts
Leather, Canvas and
Fox Puttees
HERMAN ARMY SHOES
Bergman Shoes
Russell Shoe Packs
Buckskin Moccasins
Tents Camp Cots
Camp Tables
Camp Reflectors
Folding Cups Camp Stools
Water Bags Camp Stoves
Lunch Kits Camp Axes
Cooking Utensils
Pack Sacks
Dunnage Bags
Rubber Blankets
Sleeping Bags
Pneumatic Mattresses
SKIS Snow Shoes
Ski and Snow Shoe Bindings
Ski Poles Ice Axes
Alpenstocks Canteens
Canned Heat Flash Lights
Sweaters Jerseys
First Aid Kits PARKAS
Pedometers Compasses
Hunting Knives
Pocket Knives Guns
Ammunition
Fishing Tackle
Sporting Goods Shop, Basement Balcony
<rSTOREr
TMEr Q.UALIT1T STOR& OF PORTLAND
FifOv, Sixt»vT"torrisoiv Alder Sta.
JjlEAUTIFUL STREAMS—
«i haunt of gamiest trout —
chanting their way through
noble forests, interesting geo-
logical formations, lava caves,
Huckleberry Mountain, where
friendly Indians gather for their
potlatches, etc., and many other
desirable features for outings
and camps.
Mt. Adams (12,307 feet high), third
of the greatest peaks of the North-
west, with one of the greatest glacial
fields for alpine sport, adventure.
All this within 2^ hours by rail
from Portland on
The North Bank Road
Request your ticket to the North Pacific Coast be routed Spokane, Portland &
Seattle Ry.. between Spokane and Portland, and Clatsop Beach on Pacific Ocean
PORTLAND TICKET OFFICE— 5th and Stark Streets
MY WAY
OVER THE HIGHWAY
From Portland — the Heart of Sportland —
Into the river bordered wilds of the Columbia.
Up the Wildway far as you would roam
or down St. Helens way where the
mighty river broadens toward the sea.
PERMANENT REGULAR ROUND TRIP SERVICE
SAFE SPEED CAREFUL CHAUFFEURS
COMFORTABLE CONVENIENT CARS
Columbia River Highway Auto Line
St. Helens Auto Line
FRANK SHEPARD, Managing Owner
Headquarters: ST. CHARLES HOTEL, 204 Morrison Street
Phones: Main 930; A3611
MAZAMA
A RECORD OF MOUNTAINEERING IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
Publication Committee
ALFRED F. PARKER MARY C. HENTHORNE, Chairman BEULAH F. MILLER
VOLUME V PORTLAND, OREGON, DECEMBER, 1916 NUMBER 1
Contents
Page
THE THREE SISTERS OUTING, 1916 7
By Mary C. Henthorne
GLACIERS OF THE THREE SISTERS 14
By Ira A. Williams
A GEOLOGIST'S THOUGHTS ON RETURNING FROM THE MAZAMA OUTING OF 1916 24
By Warren D. Smith
LOST CREEK VALLEY 29
By Henderson Daingerfield Norman
UPPER LOST CREEK MEADOWS 33
By J. Duncan Spaeth
WILD LIFE OF THE THREE SISTERS REGION 34
By Albert C. Shelton
BIRDS OF RIVER, FOREST AND SKY 41
By Florence Merriam Bailey
THE ELECTRIC STORM ON MIDDLE SISTER 47
By G. W. Wilder
THE JAUNT OF THE FOUR 52
By John A. Lee
MT. HOOD TO MT. JEFFERSON ON FOOT 61
By Alfred F. Parker
MAZAMAS AMONG THE CANADIAN ROCKIES 66
By W. E. Stone
THE MOUNTAIN'S BOAST 69
By Charles H. Sholes
CAPITALIZING SCENERY 70
By Nathan A. Bowers
6 Contents
Page
HUNTING THE AMERICAN CHAMOIS WITHOUT A GUN 76
By Walter Prichard Eaton
LESSER FALLS ALONG THE COLUMBIA 81
By H. H. Riddell
Two USEFUL BOTANICAL MANUALS 87
By M. W. Gorman
THE SKIING TRIP 91
By Margaret A. Griffin
GEOGRAPHICAL PROGRESS IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST 94
By Lewis A. McArthur
BUREAU OF ASSOCIATED MOUNTAINEERING CLUBS OF NORTH AMERICA . . 96
IN MEMORIAM 97
Harley H. Prouty, by Jerry E. Bronaugh
Hart. K. Smith, by M. W. Gorman
Emit Franzetti, by Osmon Royal
MAZAMA OUTING FOR 1917 100
MAZAMA ORGANIZATION FOR THE YEAR 1916-1917 ........ 101
CONSTITUTION AND BY-LAWS OF THE MAZAMAS 102
BOOK REVIEWS 108
LIST OF MEMBERS . ,114
Something calls and whispers along the city street,
Through shrill cries of children and soft stir of feet,
And makes my blood to quicken and makes my flesh to pine.
The mountains are calling. The wind wakes the pine.
— -Georgiana Goddard King.
MA:;AMA
VOLUME V DECEMBER, 1916 NUMBER 1
The Three Sisters Outing, 1916
By MARY C. HENTHORNE
Only those who have answered the persistent invitation of the
mountains can appreciate fully the joy of preparation for camp and
trail. There is a fine flavor of anticipation even in the preliminary over-
hauling of equipment. Everyone knows how futile is the effort to cram
the first selection of clothing and miscellaneous articles into one small
dunnage bag. In addition to those things really necessary for a two
weeks' existence remote from civilized centers, each person is certain
to include his own particular and peculiar contrivances for camp com-
fort. As the initial weighing usually shows about twenty pounds over-
weight, one cherished article after another is removed until the scales
show no excess. Joyously the bag is tied and sent off, not to be seen
again until the first night in camp — possibly not then, if a belated pack-
train forces a few unfortunates to spend the night huddled around the
campfire.
The Three Sisters country was entirely new territory to the majority
of those on this year's outing. Twice before, in 1903 and in 1910, this
section was the objective of the summer's trip. Except for short ac-
counts written by Mazamas, very little has been published about this
part of the state until the Oregon Bureau of Mines and Geology devoted
part of its May, 1916, issue to a description of the scenery and the most
important geological features of the region.
The Three Sisters, a trinity of snow-capped mountains, form part of
the Cascade range, lying between Crook and Lane counties about one
hundred miles south of Mt. Hood, on the line separating the Deschutes
and Cascade National Forests. All are about the same height, the
Middle Sister being 10,038 feet high, the North Sister 10,067, and the
South Sister 10,352. Seven peaks constitute the entire group — the
North, Middle and South Sisters, Bachelor Butte, the Husband and the
Wife, and Broken Top. Several lakes in the vicinity provide good fishing.
After a night spent luxuriously in the Pullman speeding from Port-
land to Eugene, over one hundred Mazamas and prospective Mazamas
left the college town early on the morning of August the sixth. Through
the courtesy of the Eugene Commercial Club, automobiles were
provided for the twenty-five mile ride to the Poujade fish hatchery,
where an appetizing breakfast was served in a beautiful grove.
8 The Three Sisters Outing, 1916
The famous McKenzie river is first seen about twelve miles east of
Eugene — a lovely, brawling stream that falls noisily down its rocky bed
in numberless feathery cascades. The road follows beside it for over
fifty miles to McKenzie Bridge, winding through a thick forest of tall
fir, spruce and cedar trees. In many places there is a heavy under-
growth of ferns, Oregon grape and salal.
The flat country of the lower valley disappears imperceptibly, the
hills becoming higher and more rugged. Cedar and spruce mingle with
the hemlock, pine and Douglas fir. A little later these are replaced by
thickets of mountain balm, or greasewood, alder, and vine maple, with
occasional madrona, dogwood, and white-bark pine. Tantalizing
views of the snow caps are obtained at intervals, but it is not until after
crossing Lost creek that there is an unobstructed sight of the Middle
and North Sisters from a long stretch of open road. A brief glimpse of
the South Sister may be caught from Alder Spring near the foot of Deer
Butte.
Luncheon was eaten at the bridge, and muscles were stretched after
the long confinement in the large automobile trucks which had super-
seded the lighter machines on leaving the hatchery. In the afternoon
it became increasingly difficult for the trucks to travel, as the grade is
much greater in the twenty miles between McKenzie Bridge and Frog
Camp in Lake valley. First one and then another was disabled, so that
finally but a single truck rolled triumphantly across the flat meadow to
Frog Camp, leaving a comet-like trail of pedestrians in its wake.
The start on the final five mile walk to permanent camp was made
as the sun was setting in a glow of amethyst, rose and gold. With
alpenstocks clicking an irregular march, the party proceeded across the
grassy park, through shadowy pines and hemlocks. The trail was well-
defined until the White Branch lava flow was reached. Here it became
difficult to follow the crooked path in the waning light.
This lava bed is part of a large area over which, during compara-
tively recent times, molten lava from the numerous vents spread like a
blanket. From a geologic standpoint, this region is newer than any other
in the Cascades.
After crossing White Branch, which issues from the snout of Col-
lier glacier, the trail to camp ascended a ridge covered eight to ten feet
deep with snow. This covering was heavier last winter than at any time
since the advent of white settlers in the Willamette valley. Meadows
which in other years have been brilliant flower gardens were bleak and
barren snow wastes. The last mile lay through a forest dim as a ca-
thedral in the twilight. At intervals candles placed in the snow lighted
weary stragglers upward to the waiting campfire.
The Three Sisters Outing, 1916 9
Camp was made, at an altitude of 6,400 feet, in an alpine meadow
situated on a bench of obsidian on the west side of the Middle Sister.
There are several of these interesting terraces, one above the other, each
composed of dark, shiny lava, that is, in fact, natural glass. The three
peaks towered above the plateau — "Three mountain tops, three silent
pinnacles of ancient snow," "with the primal unrest locked away in their
breasts." It was difficult for the advance party to find enough places
free from snow in which to pitch the tents. These showed white in
relief against their background of fir and hemlock, each on its small
island in the surrounding sea of snow. Water was obtained by digging
holes in the snow where the lakes should have been. This provided
enough for the necessary camp purposes until, toward the end of the
outing, the sun melted the snow sufficiently to form several miniature
lakes which then afforded an ample supply for both culinary and bath-
ing purposes.
The first day was spent in camp-making, each group of five or six
persons vying with another in making the most attractive home.
Luxurious beds of springy, aromatic boughs were painstakingly built
close to the dressing tents. During the morning the weather was very
warm, but in the afternoon a heavy fog closed in. As this turned to rain
during the night, the novices in camping had a real initiation.
Tryout trips began the next day. A small group of hardy climbers
ascended the Middle Sister. A large party, numbering fifty-two, made
an all day trip to Red Lava Crags under the leadership of Mr. W.
C. Yoran. This bold, rocky spur stands near the tongue of Collier
glacier, with its crenellated summits sharply outlined against the sky.
On the trip Mr. Yoran found a curious lava formation resembling a
squash, which he had seen there several years ago. It has since been
placed in the University of Oregon and labeled "Yoran's squash."
Trips to the Husband proved popular. This is a rough, jagged-
topped mountain lying several miles south of camp. From the summit
the view of the Middle and South Sisters is especially fine. A long snow
field furnished splendid glissading as the descent was made. Knapsack
trips were made by small parties to Broken Top, and also fishing trips
to several of the lakes beyond the South Sister.
Enthusiastic reports from those who journeyed to the "Flower val-
ley" led many to this Mecca for botanists. Everyone started with the
intention of reaching Lost Creek falls, but "the way was long and
weary," so only the sturdiest plodders reached the goal and very few
penetrated beyond. Moreover, as the way to the valley is nearly all
down grade, the return necessitates several miles of steady climbing
when muscles are already tired by the day's work. Yet it is worth the
10 The Three Sisters Outing, 1916
effort. As we read Mrs. Attilla Norman's account of her trips there,
we feel again the great charm of the beautiful, flower-strewn meadow,
and we find in Dr. J. Duncan Spaeth's poem the very embodiment of its
spirit.
A day was spent in visiting the Cinder Cone, a beautifully colored
pyramid of cinders and ashes on which practically no vegetation has
gained a foothold. The line of the crater is broken on the west side in
such a way that the interior reminds one of a vast amphitheatre with
the stage placed in the opening. To reach the cone the party crossed
the Collier glacier where the ice-stream is deflected from its straight
course by the huge cinder pile. Under ordinary conditions much of the
surface of the ice flow is badly broken by crevasses. This year com-
paratively few had opened on the lower glacier. However, enough were
seen to interest those who had never before been on a real live glacier.
On August the tenth six men and seven women, under the guidance
of Mr. Harley H. Prouty, made an early start from camp for the North
Sister, the sternest, most forbidding-looking of the trio. The peak is a
rough, ridged framework of lava, crowned by jagged pinnacles. The
route of the mountaineers led them across the neve of Collier glacier
to the saddle between the Middle and the North Sisters. After crossing
the saddle the way continues up a knife-edged ridge on the south shoul-
der, where there is barely room enough to climb. The slope on either
side is steep, with a sheer drop of thousands of feet in several places.
The ropes were used before reaching the base of the highest pinnacle.
A small glacier with a slant of sixty-five or seventy degrees hangs almost
in mid-air just at the base of the rock spire. Mr. Prouty and Mr. E. F.
Peterson cut steps across its lower face and then up to the rocks at the
top. From here the two made their way slowly to the topmost point.
They were followed by Mr. A. S. Peterson and Mr. Thomas R. Jones.
Few firm rocks were available for foot and handholds, and some of these
were wet and icy. As the rock is disintegrating very rapidly, the climb
is becoming increasingly difficult and will probably be impossible to
make in a few years, if the process of weathering continues at the present
rapid rate. Mr. Prouty found it much more dangerous than it was on
his two former ascents. In 1910 he made the first recorded ascent of the
pinnacle. There are twelve names in the record book, Mr. Prouty 's
occurring three times.
The rest of the climbers sat quietly on the narrow ledge at the base
of Prouty Pinnacle for nearly three hours. Their perch was precarious,
but they felt refreshed for the descent, which had to be made as slowly
and carefully as the ascent.
Later Messrs. R. L. Glisan, John A. Lee, C. H. Sholes and Guy
The Three Sisters Outing, 1916 11
Thatcher ascended Glisan Pinnacle from the north side. They found
the climb equally hazardous from there. As they did not reach the
summit until five o'clock, no attempt was made to climb the highest
pinnacle.
With Mr. Roy W. Ayer as chief guide, on August the twelfth at
6:45 a. m., fifty-two people left Camp Riley on the official trip to the
Middle Sister. The climbers, divided into numbered companies,
marched rapidly in single file to timberline, then more slowly and with
frequent pauses — up, up, across the snow fields, past the Folding Rock,
a curious formation showing the strata, to the final steep ridge leading
to the summit. As the party climbed carefully up over the loose lava
blocks, a thunderstorm was gathering over the shoulder of the South
Sister. Billowy clouds began to roll across the space intervening between
the peaks, and distant thunder sounded menacing warnings. Just after
luncheon and registration were completed at midday, these masses of
blue-black mist closed in around the top of the Middle Sister, obscuring
the country below and enfolding everything in a heavy blanket of fog.
Electricity crackled and snapped from finger tips, alpenstocks and
flying locks of hair. It seemed to pulsate through the air with recur-
rent force. Vivid lightning flashes were succeeded by peals of thunder
that reverberated from peak to peak. The din and roar of the storm
were almost dismaying to the climbers, who precipitately began a re-
treat. Great hailstones pelted unmercifully upon their shoulders and a
beating rain, descending in wind-driven sheets, drenched them as they
crossed the snow fields. Every opportunity to glissade was welcomed,
even by those who had looked askance at this most exhilarating sport.
One long-legged individual made a record trip, reaching camp in less
than an hour after leaving the summit. Chef Weston, with his hot
oyster soup, administered most adequate first aid treatment to the
dripping, shivering crowd. A half dozen of the men remained on the
top a little longer than the rest of the party to watch the awe-inspiring
electrical display. Evidences of the disastrous work of the lightning
in the valley were seen the next day. Large trees had been struck and
shattered, and the debris covered the ground for many yards in all
directions.
Other parties, led by Mr. W. C. Yoran and Mr. L. E. Anderson,
were favored with fine weather for their ascents. A glorious panorama
of snow-capped peaks stretching north and south as far as the eye can
reach may be seen on a clear day. Shasta, Thielsen, Diamond
Peak, then Mt. Washington, Three-fingered Jack, Jefferson, Hood, St.
Helens, and — yes — the tiniest tip of Rainier, rise majestically from the
far-reaching blue ridges. To the west the country rolls in undulating
12 The Three Sisters Outing, 1916
waves to the fertile green valleys that lie between the Cascades and the
Coast range. To the east may be seen the broad stretches of irrigated
wheat land lying serenely in the sunshine, the flat plains unflecked by
cloud shadows. The joy of attainment becomes a very tangible thing
when the reward of the climb is such a colorful, living picture outspread
in all directions.
The official climb of the. South Sister was not so eventful. On the
afternoon of August the fifteenth, thirty-five people with packs on
backs started on a seven mile walk to the bivouac camp, which was
located well up on the slope of the mountain at timberline. The knap-
sack trip was another experience new and strange to the uninitiated.
No soft beds of boughs to sleep on after the campfire — just the bare
ground. Though the air was chilly, few stayed awake long enough to
realize the wonder of the night. The wind crept rustling through the
trees, which were silhouetted against the sky by the fitful light flashes
from the dying fire. Little sharp noises out of the darkness served
to accent the great stillness that pervaded the forest.
The ascent was commenced at 6:20 the next morning. Thirty fell
in line at the leader's call, the other five having decided to return to
the main camp. The greater part of the climb was made on Lost Creek
glacier. It may also be made almost entirely on the rocks. The sum-
mit is a well-defined crater about a third of a mile in diameter. It pre-
sents a level surface of snow that forms a glittering setting for a tiny,
gem-like lake, wonderful in its deep sapphire blue coloring.
The view was disappointing, for the fog lay thick and heavy below.
There were occasional tantalizing glimpses of snow peaks and green
valleys through rifts in the clouds, but not enough to make a long stay
on the summit desirable. Others who made the ascent on clear days
saw the same wonderful picture that is visible from the Middle Sister,
with a fine view of both the Middle and North sisters in addition. On
the descent several beautifully colored crevasses were investigated.
During the tramp to camp the fog settled lower. The line of people
became a shadowy procession of spectral shapes moving in the mist.
Camp was a welcome sight after the eerie journey in the gloom.
A small party of especially hardy climbers left camp at 3 :00 a. m.
the day of the ascent, made the summit by a different route, and re-
turned to camp an hour in advance of the main party.
For the first time in Mazama history there was no evening campfire.
The fog still hung dismally among the trees, making warm beds seem
the most comfortable places for the tired mountaineers. There was
even a little rain to add variety to the fog.
No one thought of the possibility of snow. Yet, when heads
Ascent of Middle Sister. Upper— Side view of "Folding Rock."
Merten.) Middle — End view of same. (Photograph by John R. Leach.)
glacier. (Photograph by R. L. Glisan.)
(Photograph by Charles J.
Lower— -Crossing Renfrew
Upper — Broken Top and The Bachelor, looking south from summit of Middle Sister. Middle — Crater
on summit of South Sister, looking southeast. (Photographs by A. L. Roberts.) I^ower — South Sister
enveloped in clouds. (Photograph by W. C. Yoran.)
The Three Sisters Outing, 1916 13
emerged from sleeping bags next morning, what a sight greeted the eyes
of the summer campers! Winter had arrived out of season and had
covered the ground with a deep blanket of snow. The trees "were
ridged inch deep with pearl" and the skies were gray with the swirling
flakes. Those who had slept in the open were dug out by the moving-
picture men, who were astir early in their search for laughable situa-
tions. Only the very wise, provident in fine weather, had dry wood
hidden away to start fires. Tables and benches were covered with eight
or nine inches of snow, so breakfast was eaten standing.
The morning was devoted to various snow sports. Commencement
exercises were held in the afternoon. Addresses were made and the
class song sung with the snow dripping from the trees down the collars
of the unwary. There were twenty- three in the graduating class who
became eligible to membership in the Mazamas. Summit badges were
given to all who were entitled to them.
On Friday morning twenty-seven members, fearing a long storm,
left camp, but those hardy spirits who remained indulged in unlimited
glissading and waged mimic battles in snow forts, to the great delight
of the moving picture operators. The sun came out, the snow melted,
and the flowers reappeared during the last two days in camp.
Nearly everyone made a last visit to "The end of the world" to see
the sunset. This name had been given to the cliff which marked the
termination of the obsidian ridge on which we camped.
"T was a glorious scene — the mountain height
Aflame with sunset's colored light.
Even the black pines, grim and old,
Transfigured stood with crowns of gold.
There on a hoary crag we stood
When the tide of glory was at its flood,
looking away across the dusky valley to where the sun was going down
in a sea of gorgeous color that softened gradually to shades of palest
blue and gray.
In the long winter evenings many will recall the campfire sessions
of Camp Riley. There were splendid talks on the geology, the botany
and the zoology of the region by those who could speak with authority
on the subjects. Original songs, impromptu plays, and readings from
favorite poets made the evenings pass swiftly.
Sometimes, in the midst of the jollity, there came a silence as each
watched for the rising of the moon. First there shone a dusky light,
softening the stark outlines of the great peaks, that stand "like huge
14 The Three Sisters Outing, 1916
waves petrified against the sky." Then a silvery radiance filled the
whole arch, as the brilliant disk rose over the crest and swept across the
sky. The campfire seemed but a tiny prick of red in the white light, but
it was warm, and in its pleasant heat the fun was soon resumed.
Camp was broken on the morning of August the twentieth. The
Mazamas and their friends returned to sea-level tanned and hardy,
re-vitalized in mind and body, and feeling that the outing was well
worth while, in spite of rain and hail and snow.
AAA
Glaciers of the Three Sisters
By IRA A. WILLIAMS
OREGON BUREAU OF MINES AND GEOLOGY
Thirty years ago in his report to the Director of the U. S. Geological
Survey, Captain C. E. Dutton expressed the opinion that, "There are
few localities equal in geologic interest to the neighborhood of the Three
Sisters." To those of us who have had the pleasure of visiting this region
since that time, the overflowing truth of that opinion has certainly
never been questioned. There we see displayed in all clearness not
only the present characteristics of the three great peaks themselves,
but also the story of their life, their birth, growth and beginning de-
cay, eloquently laid bare, only waiting our attention to be read.
Nor does it require the critical, penetrating eye of the scientist to
decipher the story. Its facts are so persistently thrust beneath one's
very eyes that it remains only for "him who walks" to connect them
into sentences, and the paragraphs and chapters, that spell out a record
tinged with the romantic, 'tis true, but replete with tragedy.
We camp securely in this day at the feet and in the shadow of
these towering snow-striped peaks. Mazamas make intimate friends
of them. As between friends when intimacy develops, they respond
with confidences that the eye and the ear attuned to the "various
language" that nature speaks can appreciate. As with intimate friends,
we cultivate their acquaintance and are permitted to learn of events,
and of the exigencies and crises in their lives, that are not entrusted to
the onlooker and the passer-by.
The Three Sisters peaks of the central Oregon Cascades, and the
immediately surrounding country, is a region in which an unusual num-
ber of recent geologic events have taken place. There are two main
Glaciers of the Three Sisters 15
reasons why the nature of these events may be so readily seen. In the
first place, so short a time has passed since many of them occurred that
the evidence of what has happened is not yet obscured by the effects of
the weather, by soil accumulation or dense forest growth. Rock surfaces
are bare and clean and possess their original characteristics. Lava
flows are still but little touched by erosion, and the glaciers are as busy
as when they were much more extensive. Then, again, the differing
nature of the various events happens to be such that the results of one
have not covered up beyond recognition those of another.
What is the language in which the story of the region is made
clear? Every stream in its canyon speaks out in terms unmistakable;
every flow of lava with its twisted, ropy and broken surface tells its tale ;
each smooth and glistening ice-scored ledge, each frigid clinging glacier,
the shapes of the mountains themselves with their radiating ridges, in-
tervening snowfields, and cruelly riven sides appeal in terms not to be
misread. The language, thus, while one of tongues not few, neverthe-
less calls out to us in universal tones that all may understand. Trans-
formed to words of human speech, what then of romance or of tragedy
is revealed? The temptation to undertake the writing of this story in
all its parts is one strong to resist, so interwoven and closely related
are its various incidents, and so all-absorbing is the plot and nature's
setting of it. For the present moment, however, but one feature of
this grand drama must claim attention, one scene only in a single act
on which the curtain is not yet drawn. It is a scene of ice and snow.
And we get our first clew from the diminutive glaciers that are pre-
cariously gnawing away at the flanks of each of the Three Sisters. Di-
minutive they are, for the reason that, whichever one we examine,
abundant evidence is found that they are each of them only the wasting
remnants of ice masses, once, and not long ago, of much greater extent.
Precarious is their position, for so despoiled have they become by the
growing warmth of sun since the continuous winter of glacial times held
sway, that some of them are now relatively, in truth, mere grasping and
shriveled icy shreds of their former selves.
We need look for no hidden signs of former extensive glaciation.
By no direction of approach to the Sisters can we escape their glaring
testimony. Twenty miles west of the Cascade summit along the Mc-
Kenzie road we begin to see the marks of glacier work. Lost Creek
canyon throughout practically its entire length from where it heads
against the slopes of South Sister to its union with the McKenzie, a
distance of twenty miles or thereabouts, is deeply glacier cut and its
U-shaped cross section is not to be mistaken. Can we conceive of the
day when this great rock-walled trough was filled to the brim with frigid
16 Glaciers of the Three Sisters
blue ice, was indeed even a mere corrugation in the uneven old lava
surface over which the ice spread, inundating all but the highest ele-
vations for a great many square miles along the west slope of the Cas-
cade range? And when we now perilously search our way down its
crumbling cliffs for a thousand and more of feet into its depths to where
in August the brilliant flowers of springtime that adorn acres of its level
floor lure us on, — can we realize that these perfect little meadows with
their sod of green through which scattered boulders peep, and across
which sparkling rivulets wind a graceful way, — is it possible that they,
too, are to be accounted for by the former presence and work of the
same chilling stream of ice? There is no question that this is so.
Shortly above Alder spring on the McKenzie road we pass bare,
hummocky rock surfaces which bear the indelible imprint of glacial
ice. They are scored, plowed and rounded as though some gigantic rasp
of uneven grain had irresistibly borne down upon them. In its passage
across the summit, bare or sparsely wooded glaciated hills and knobs
are seen on every hand along the McKenzie road but a few miles to the
north of the Sisters group of peaks. Similarly to the south for many
miles along the crest of the Cascades are uncounted lakes, in size from
miles in diameter to but a few feet across, that occupy rock-bound sags
or shallow pits in the hard rock. Some of them have outlets, many not;
and all are eloquently reminiscent of a time not very long ago when
the whole summit of the range was buried beneath an immense roof of
ice and snow.
In our examination of the Three Sisters and their environs we find
that very important events have transpired since the time of widespread
glaciation. Great masses of liquid lavas have issued at the foot of, and
in some cases upon, their slopes. So fresh are some of these flows that
it is rather difficult to believe eruption is no longer taking place. The
lavas have come out and spread over large areas of the glaciated coun-
try. One may be almost certain in some places that the lavas appeared
while frigid conditions were still present. Can we picture the spectacu-
lar display that must have accompanied the issuance of the glowing
hot lavas as they melted their way up through and flowed out upon the
surface of the accumulated arctic snows of we know not how many win-
ters? Scarcely. Yet in so many places may we see the ice-scored rock
surfaces passing directly under the borders of the new lava flows that
from any and every reasoning standpoint we are unable to scout the
probability that glaciation and volcanism were vigorously contesting
processes here in the not distant past. The net result of their conten-
tions to date is expressed in the character of the region at the present
time. Have either of these two differing forces of nature so gained the
Glaciers of the Three Sisters 17
ascendency as to henceforth discourage opposition from the other; has
the battle been fought to a draw ; or is it as if the declaration of a truce
has temporarily allayed the conflict?
So far as man may judge, the last is the most probable status of the
situation. But while peace between these two may be the order of the
present day, just as in warfare among men, if not the victors, others
promptly enter and begin to clear away the wreckage and debris, to
remodel and to reconstruct ; so that in course of time but scattered sign
remains perhaps to tell the story of the past. The active erosion of the
streams, the cutting action of what is left of the glaciers, and the
crumbling effect of the weather, are the agents of reconstruction that
are slowly, 'tis true, but so surely revolutionizing the surface features
of the Sisters region that, unless they are deterred, even the mountains
themselves are in the end doomed to obliteration. Such is the outcome
in the measured terms of earth history, though no one of us need have
serious concern that these magnificent peaks may be lost to us ; for while
years and hundreds of years are our units, their passage is but a mere
tick of the clock of epochal time by which the crucial periods of earth
events are measured.
With the superficial satisfaction of distant inspection or philoso-
phizing, we shall not, however, be content. A real speaking acquaintance
with the Sisters, all three, must be gained if to us is to be yielded up
many of the intimacies of their life careers. As we approach them one
may seem more or less communicative than another as to the past, but
when we reflect that the facts we learn depend less upon their inclina-
tion to impart than our own ability to comprehend, it is plain after all
that it is our own keenness of sense that is to determine the pleasure
and satisfaction we enjoy in our association with these, our friends, the
Three Sisters.
All are easy of approach, if too great intimacy at the start is not
attempted. Records at the summit of South Sister show that it has
been climbed from the east, south and west sides without difficulty.
Upon its slopes are five living glaciers. All of them may be seen to be
much shrunken from their former size and extent when examined at
close range. Their lower borders are frequently rimmed with sharp
ridges of loose rock le* ritus, that rise from a few to a hundred feet higher
than the present surface of the ice. Their extremities are as a rule so
e it -rely obscured by the accumulated rock materials which they them-
selves have brought down, that their limits can rarely be definitely made
out. They are, in other words, blocking their own courses and, as it
were, burying themselves beneath a load of their own hauling. A great
deal of water is of course produced by melting of the ice in summer, and
18 Glaciers of the Three Sisters
that which issues from beneath the glaciers goes away charged and milky
with the finely pulverized rock powder that the moving ice has etched
from the sides and bottom of its channel. But these waters have little
or no power to carry away much of the vast quantity of coarse material
which rides down frozen in or upon the top of the glacier, and it there-
fore heaps up in ridges and embankments where it is dropped as the ice
melts. At a little distance these moraines, for such they are called, are
a prominent feature.
One may with slight difficulty walk clear round South Sister in a
day's trip, in which each of its five glaciers may be crossed at altitudes
between 8,000 and 9,000 feet. In places the going is across the glaring
snowfields, elsewhere a meandering path upon bare ice amongst the
crevasses where calks and alpenstock, if not indispensable, are certainly
reassuring safeguards to secure progress. Again it is a scramble over
long rock slides or the scaling of the cliffs of crumbling lava that fre-
quently rise from the glacier's edge and separate one from another.
Against the northwest slope of South Sister and in plain view in the
photograph (opposite page 18) Lost Creek glacier clings. It has di-
minished greatly in size in recent times, and although it displays many
crevasses in the ordinary season, in 1916 little else could be seen than
a wide expanse of boulder-strewn snow. At its head it is cruelly eating
into the mountain by a process of undercutting known as "plucking"
where by freezing fast to the rocks the ice of the glacier literally plucks
out great masses as gravity draws it down the steep slope of the moun-
tainside. The distal or lower end of Lost Creek glacier is so thoroughly
obscured by rock detritus that the exact location of the front of the ice
is not to be seen. The snowfield of this glacier connects with the great
mass of snow which fills the crater of South Sister.
Nestling in a shallow rock-walled niche of its own on the north
slope is a mass of snow and ice whose glacial character is not very evi-
dent except in seasons when melting has been unusually active so as to
expose the ice near its lower end. At such times a series of crevasses is
in view, and while the area covered by both snowfield and the ice tongue
itself is small, the common characteristics of the alpine glacier are pres-
ent. The most typical and unmistakable confirmation of our observa-
tions as to its glacial nature is the presence about and below its lower
border of well-defined embankments of morainal materials. Below it,
too, are one or more small lakes into which the waters from its melting
seep their way.
High up on the northeast slope of South Sister is the most extensive
snowfield on the mountain. It is more than a mile across and from it
as a feeder four small tongues of glacial ice creep well down the moun-
Glaciers of the Three Sisters 19
tain side. At the present time these individual ice lobes are separated
only by what appear to be elongated morainal ridges, that is, heaps of
broken rock, gravel pebbles, boulders of all sizes, and sand, that the ice
itself has dug out, carried down and deposited. We are left no other
inference here than that the position of what we see today as four separ-
ated small ice streams was formerly occupied by one large mass of mov-
ing glacial ice that emanated from a snow-filled amphitheatre of proba-
bly considerably greater dimensions. In the course of its shrinkage
this once large glacier has been forced to seek its way out through a series
of channels rather than a single one, on account of the obstructions
which it, itself, has dropped in its old course.
Could one visualize the present condition of this great body of ice
and snow that is slowly smothering itself with its own burden, no better
picture of its position and outlines could be found perhaps than to con-
ceive of the snowfield area as the palm of a huge hand from which the
ice streams push out as the fingers. Between each two fingers is a
morainal ridge, often rising a hundred feet higher than the fingers them-
selves. Against the uphill ends of these ridges, where the fingers attach
to the hand, as it were, the ice mass splits and, as if crowded far beyond
its plastic limit, here is usually a group of radiating wide open crevasses
running, not across, but up and down the slope of the mountain and of
the glacier. Each finger of ice reaches down to nearly 7,500 feet until
dwindled by melting and obscured by its own load; its waters, usually
surcharged with fine sediment, accumulating in a series of little lakes,
either directly or by seepage, drain away into some of the smaller head-
streams of Squaw creek and thence to the Deschutes.
The size of this glacial field on the northeast slope of South Sister,
and the distinctive and typical features of the ice streams leading from
it, are such as should give it a recognized standing among the glaciers of,
at least, the Oregon Cascades. In my study of the region the past sum-
mer, the desirability of dignifying it with a name came to me very strong-
ly. Little then did I suspect that by now there might be occasion to
commemorate the passing of any one of the congenial group gathered
in the 1916 Mazama camp. Were Mr. Prouty here today I know that
his modesty would urge against such recognition. What to us were his
superior attainments seemed to him mere incidents in his everyday
life. In acknowledgment of those attainments, however, which were
his only because he possessed a poise and judgment that never failed
him in the most crucial of moments, and as a testimony to his character
and his knowledge of mountaineering and of the mountains of the Pa-
cific coast ever placed, in his most kindly manner, at the service of
whomsoever he might assist, the writer of this paper proposes to christen
20 Glaciers of the Three Sisters
this largest of the glaciers on South Sister, Prouty glacier. A humble
testimonial this, perhaps, yet one by which, it is hoped, Mazamas and
others of Mr. Prouty's acquaintance may in the future be frequently
reminded of him whose memory will no doubt be perpetuated in other
more conspicuous manner, yet by no monument more fitting or sub-
stantial.
Against the east of south slope of South Sister in a niche which it has
excavated for itself is a small glacier that, in a similar way, terminates
in two narrow extending fingers that reach very little below 9,000 feet.
Between the two fingers is a high morainal ridge against which the ice
mass appears to split into the two parts. This entire body of ice and
snow has an exceedingly steep slope, in general too steep to traverse
with perfect security, and does not occupy, all told, more than a few
acres. At the tip, or snout, of the easterly branch of the two ice streams
is a sheer front of clean ice forty to fifty feet in height which shows many
of the characteristics of the true alpine glacier. It is jointed, broken by
crevasses and exhibits the horizontal bandings that mark the cumulative
snowfalls of successive seasons. Below this ice front the solid lava slope
is so steep that morainal material cannot remain, but when released from
its icy bond rolls, or is promptly moved by the series of copious glacial
streams of water far down towards the base of the mountain. Blocks
of ice at times part from the parent mass to be similarly precipitated
headlong down for a thousand feet or more to more stable positions and
to where once, without question, the glacier itself extended and dumped
its load.
Upon the southwest slope of South Sister is yet another small gla-
cier. Its surface is usually pretty thoroughly snow-covered, the cre-
vassed blue ice showing toward its lower end only in late summer when
melting has exposed it. About the upper rim of its cirque is another
remarkable example of undercutting or plucking of rock masses by
freezing and the downward gravitational movement. A very good idea
of the character of the volcanic materials of which the top part of the
mountain is composed may be obtained by a study of these great over-
hanging cliffs that are developed to a greater or less extent round the
head of all the glacial fields on South Sister.
We may again say, then, that this peak has five glaciers of a size
worthy of recognition. Each of them is but what is left of ice streams
once more extensive. We may properly regard what we see today as
the dwindled remnants of a series of feeders that contributed, from this
elevated peak, to the more widespread glacial fields that buried the
whole Cascade summit for a hundred miles or more. It seems highly
probable that South Sister was an actively erupting volcano during, at
Glaciers of the Three Sisters 21
least, the period of greatest glaciation; otherwise we would expect to
find it more deeply cut into and its cone shape more seriously marred
than it is at the present time.
Middle Sister is the source of four active glaciers. Of these, two
are on the east side, one upon the north of west, and the fourth and larg-
est passes down to the northwest, its lower portion being along the west
base of the North Sister. Each of these glaciers has been mentioned in
the past by various writers, so no detailed separate descriptions will be
given. In the photograph (page 19) the position of the two glaciers
on the east slope of Middle Sister may be seen. The one to the south
is Diller glacier while Hayden glacier passes to the north near the foot
of North Sister. The two spring from the same gathering ground above,
but separate against a great jutting crag to become thence individual
streams of moving ice. Both are excellent examples of the alpine gla-
cier, exhibiting well in their various parts all stages of consolidation
from granular snow, half-ice, half-snow or neve, to the solid ice of blue
or blue-green cast. Fissuring is a common feature and in places near
the extremity of Hayden glacier particularly, in a season of ordinary
melting and flowage, wonderful development of seracs, a pinnacled maze
of crevassed and broken ice, may usually be seen. Deserted and ancient
moraines lead from their present termini far down the lower mountain
slopes and into the bordering forests.
Renfrew glacier hangs against the north of west side of Middle
Sister. It is, in part, across its snowfields that two Mazama official as-
cents of the mountain have been made, in 1910 and 1916. The Renfrew
presents a most striking display of both lateral and terminal moraines
around its borders, and at its lower edge appears to be split into two
or more separate tongues of ice. It is ordinarily so obscured by its
mantle of snow that, aside from the broad snowfield, few distinctive
features are in evidence. It is worthy of mention that at the south
side and near its head the rim of its amphitheatre is made of a much
more recent lava than is the bulk of the mountain. A great quantity
of viscous lava has oozed from a subsidiary vent at a little over 9,000
feet at the west side of the peak, and the present surface of the main
rock ridge down that slope for 1,500 to 2,000 feet is due to the fresh
veneer of what appears to be a porphyritic andesite of cellular texture
extruded in this final eruptive paroxysm of Middle Sister. This ridge
which in places has been narrowed by glacier cutting to a vertically
walled causeway of but comfortable width, offers a most attractive
course of ascent for those who prefer solid rock to a climb across the
snow.
Collier glacier originates on the west of north slope of Middle Sister,
22 Glaciers of the Three Sisters
flows along the west foot of North Sister, and terminates rather more
than three miles from the upper rim of its cirque, giving rise to White
Branch, a stream of fair size and one of the headwaters of Lost creek
which flows into the McKenzie river. In length and volume the Col-
lier is as large as any other, if not the largest, glacier in the Oregon Cas-
cades. Nor is there one that exhibits more typically the many interest-
ing features of a stream of flowing ice. Great moraines, single, double,
even triple crested, fringe its lower borders, rising in places more than
100 feet above its surface. This of course indicates a great shrinkage
in its bulk within comparatively recent times. In August, 1916, prac-
tically its entire surface was covered with snow. In 1915 and in 1910
to the writer's knowledge, practically the lower mile of its length was an
expanse of boulder-strewn firm ice, pinnacled and crevassed in part, else-
where coursed with uncountable hurrying rivulets of snow water. Its
front was then one high wall of solid ice, down the face of which when
the sun shone bright, glinted and gleamed and flashed innumerable rills,
brooks, cascades of purest quill, as if in uncontrolled haste to join the
mud-reeking waters of White Branch, which was milk white indeed
with its charge of rock "flour" from the ponderously grinding glacier
mill, as it issued with sullen gurgle from its somber cavern at the gla-
cier's base. In the view we can see far up its icy surface, which is an
estimated full mile or more in width, a cross-break which on approach
proves to be an open crevasse of the type known as bergschrund. The
bergschrund differs from the ordinary crevasse or yawning fissure in that
the wall on the lower side of the break has settled down, sometimes
slightly, sometimes many feet, so as to leave a bare upstanding wall of
ice of corresponding height on the up-hill side of the opening.
Although North Sister seems from all appearances to have received
far more harsh treatment at the hands of the erosive agencies, it does
not have upon its slopes today a glacier to compare with those on the
other two mountains. The upper portion of North Sister is a jagged
rock ridge with exceedingly steep faces on all sides. The precipitancy
of its slopes very likely accounts in part for the lack of glaciers of any
size, since there is little space sufficiently flat for snow to accumulate.
There is evidence, however, of the existence of a once full-fledged glacier
on its northeast side where a succession of well-defined moraines may
be seen extending down beyond the range of vision and into the forest.
Within a sharp deep cleft in the mountain, which was no doubt once
perennially filled with snow, there is now a small body of glacial ice.
From a little distance the writer could discern some blue ice cut by
crevasses at its lower end. The surrounding walls of this former cirque
are so precipitous and crumbly that both snow and ice are abundantly
Glaciers of the Three Sisters 23
over-strewn with rock debris. In fact the place itself fairly resounds with
the crash of falling boulders. Each in its descent starts a myriad of
others, all joining in a grand competitive relay of midair leaps from cliff
to crag, from crag to snow, and then a racing ricochet across snow and
ice far down, often to the limit of one's vision, to be finally lost within
the depths of yawning crevasses, or mingle with others of its kind and
become a part of some morainal heap at the glacier's border. Where
is there more exhilarating sport than to watch boulders take their
bounding course, after having been unfastened from their resting place
by our puny human efforts? But what is this compared to the thrill
of delight and pure satisfaction that is ours when we catch glimpses, as
here, of nature's own invisible hand at work !
In a similar cleft on the south of east slope of North Sister there is
what appears, when viewed from the country to the east, a second gla-
cial remnant. The deserted moraines appear to be there, and although
the writer has not had opportunity to make a close examination of this
portion of the mountain, its general appearance is such as to strongly
suggest that here too is the site of a former glacier of some magnitude
that contributed its mite to the summit ice-cap, and that was an im-
portant factor in reducing North Sister to its present jagged, eaten-
away, and relatively almost skeletal condition of decay.
A recounting of the glaciers of the Three Sisters thus totals eleven.
All are within a north-south limit of not over seven miles, and fifteen
square miles will amply enclose the entire group, as they stand, with
space to spare. No other area in the United States so small, and withal
so accessible, surrounds so many glaciers as the Three Sisters region
affords. Besides these, it is the overwhelming presence of the great
peaks, the widespread new lava flows with their tale of smoldering fires
now burned low, far-away rock-cut canyons, and the enchantment of
lake, and of flower-besprinkled meadow where winding rivulets purl
a restless way — these it is that call us back again and again to this one
of Oregon's beauty spots.
The thronging mountains, crowding all the scene,
Are like the long swell of an angry sea,
Tremendous surging tumult that has been
Smitten to awful silence suddenly.
— Celia Thaxter.
A Geologist's Thoughts on Returning
From the Mazama Outing of 1916
By WARREN D. SMITH
If the reader were to come into a theatre just after the actors had
finished speaking their parts in a great tragedy, but before the curtain
had fallen, he would know how I felt when I got a close view of the Three
Sisters for the first time. I had long seen them from a distance and they
were cold, distant — they were more — they were remote. It has been
my privilege to see volcanoes in action in Italy, in the Far East, and
therefore I viewed the majestic Sisters with something akin to respect,
almost with awe, wondering how long they had slept, how long they
would be sleeping.
The Middle Sister looked comely and placid and so I chose to place
my offering upon her chaste white brow. The South Sister lived too
far out in the country and the North Sister reminded me of Medusa of
old with her wild snaky locks — death lurked there in each of those
jagged points. Even as I looked at the Sister of my choice a disquieting
thought came to me — what if the majestic, but sleeping princess of the
forest should wake from her hundred year's slumber! Many have
wooed her and placed their offering upon her head, but might not one
of us be the prince whose kiss would wake her? God forbid that she
should awaken again in our time or at least while we are so close by!
What an appalling spectacle those angry Sisters would make no one
can adequately imagine who has not seen one of those furnaces in ac-
tion. I once saw three Tagalog women haranguing one another on the
street corner and the eruption of words (no dictograph could keep up
with the steady flow) was volcanic, epithets were hurled forth, and
streams of vituperation poured out and overwhelmed all within hearing.
Whenever I think of the Three Sisters and try to picture their turbulent
past I am reminded of those three little brown sisters in far off Luzon.
The dormant (I am not so sure that they are extinct) volcanoes of
the Cascades are a part of that great ring of vents about the Pacific
ocean known to geologists as the "Circle of Fire." We cannot exactly
say how long since they were active (we do know that it has been only
a few hundred years) nor how long before they may erupt again. To
the south of us we see Lassen Peak in this same range, enjoying the repu-
tation of being able to "come back" — to the north, in Alaska, are also
signs of rejuvenescence. The writer knows full well the fate that over-
takes all prophets, particularly those of the Cassandra class, and yet
he ventures the prediction that "the worst is yet to come." When the
A Geologist's Thoughts 25
next furnace will be "blown in" he does not care to attempt to guess.
Supposing this be true, it need not be an unmixed evil. Volcanoes are
spectacular; they sometimes cause no little inconvenience, as for in-
stance in the "late unpleasantness" at Pompeii — no doubt it upset
quite a number of little dinner parties and spoiled the rugs. I have a
picture in my collection by Le Roux depicting what might have been a
very common incident during that eruption. It shows milady with her
maidservants around her on an eminence overlooking the stricken city.
She is swooning into the arms of one of them, while others are hurrying
up the slope, their arms laden with robes and trinkets. They really look
quite flustered, and yet volcanoes are mere incidents in geological his-
tory and in the last analysis they have been beneficial rather than
otherwise, for they doubtless afford a relief of heat and pressure in old
Mother Earth which if pent up too long might cause more serious damage.
Some suggestions as to recent history of the Three Sisters region
may not be without interest. As these can be conjectural only, in the
absence of detailed study, it is hoped the reader will not be too critical.
From the apparent general positions and topographical relations of
the various peaks in the cluster known as the "Sisters" and from the
rate of erosion which has taken place, it would seem that the North Sister
is but a remnant of a large rim, only a small arc of which remains, of
a much larger volcano than any now in the region. The South and
Middle Sisters then must be considered as later and subsidiary cones.
The Middle Sister shows no crater now, only a sharp peak, but the
South Sister has still a well-defined crater. These, then, bear perhaps
the same relationship to the north member of the group that the present
active cone of Vesuvius does to the old mountain of Monte Somma. A
more appropriate name for the North Sister would, in my opinion, be
the "Mother."
Furthermore, the nature of much of the eruptive material in this
region is such as to lead one to conclude that while there has been out-
pouring of molten rock at times, much of the ejecta has been blown
violently from the different vents. At least in their latter days these
Sisters were turbulent. It may not be improbable that the oldest
Sister (North) fell into such a rage that she had a "brain storm" and
blew off her own head.
As for the Husband, who certainly looks "henpecked" to say the
least, we venture the opinion that he too is fairly old. There was once
a well-defined crater in this gentleman's august top which has been sadly
eaten into on one side. This was probably done by a glacier. It is
hard to tell from a distance whether the now prominent amphitheatre
on the east is due more to crater than to cirque.
26 A Geologist's Thoughts
This leads us to another point, namely the role played by these
cirques in the resulting shapes of the peaks. Originally most of these
mountains were cones and now many of them, particularly the older
ones north of the Sisters, are pyramids. In Europe they would be called
"horns." Now the horn is the result not of a building up, but of a
tearing down process and in this the glacial cirque has had the dominant
part. If there be several glaciers emanating from a mountain (and this
is often the case) there will be as many cirques or amphitheatres at their
heads, and if these cirques be considered as approximating the form of
so many truncated and inverted cones and gradually approaching one
another through erosion so as ultimately to intersect them, we may
look for interesting results. Going back to your Conic sections you will
recall that such intersections will produce parabolas and so in Alpine
Europe where there is a perfect forest of peaks and glaciers, the parabola-
shaped skyline between peaks is common. These are known as cols and
they leave almost invariably sharp pyramidal masses between them.
Such cols, as far as I know, are of limited occurrence in the Cascades,
but the older peaks in most cases are pyramids rather than cones. Mt.
Jefferson, which has been called the "Matterhorn of America," is a
good example.
And while we are on this subject, I wish to call attention to the very
fine example of a particular feature of glaciated country shown on the
north side of the South Sister and known as the bergschrund (literally
mountain gap). It is the boundary crevasse between the neve and the
glacier. Mr. Williams calls attention to this feature in his bulletin but
does not use this term. This is such a marked feature of glaciated coun-
tries that it should be perfectly familiar to all Mazamas.
So much for the superstructure — what about the foundation and
lower floors of this great geological edifice? The foundation of the
Cascades few persons have seen. It is visible at only a few points where
it outcrops deep down in the lowest-cut canyons. It is represented by
several outcrops of granite or granodiorite which are offshoots, in the
writer's opinion, of the great Sierra granite batholith of California.
Upon this we find in places a basal conglomerate and wherever this
conglomerate is found there once the sea beat in long surges, but upon
what a lonely shore!
Above these come piles of sediments, sandstones, shales and more
conglomerates, and all these make up the first story of the structure.
On top of these and in such great heavy masses as to cause the whole
substructure of sediments to sag visibly under the enormous load, which
has never been calculated but which certainly amounts to billions of
tons, lie sheet upon sheet of basic lavas, andesite and basalt. Inter-
A Geologists Thoughts 27
bedded with these are some hundreds of feet of volcanic ash or tuff
and even coarser ejecta called agglomerate. This pile is like unto a
great layer cake. Into this series of layers, numbering more than a
score in places, streams large and small have made great gashes and
these gashes have subsequently carried tongues of living ice which
softened and rounded their contours and now we see them as beautiful
valleys. We have then, as has been pointed out by many others, a dis-
sected plateau rather than a series of ranges.
And last and uppermost we have the rock pyramids and cones of
the Sisters, Jefferson, Hood, and others, rising above the noble forests
like the towers and minarets above a Moslem city. Ah, did you not
feel as the departing sun lit up those great rock piles with the matchless
alpine glow, that indeed it was the hour for prayer and meditation !
I have said little so far about the interesting phases of past and
present glaciation in this beautiful region and I do not purpose to do so
in this article. Personally I do not care for glaciers; they are cold, for-
bidding things and their work is usually destructive, unrelenting and
remorseless.
Since my return from that all too short week spent with my happy
Mazama friends, I have thought how fortunate we are to have this won-
derful geological laboratory right at the doors of our educational insti-
tutions. Never have I seen in so small a compass, and so accessible,
such an array of things of major interest to the geologist. Were I a
botanist I would doubtless be equally satisfied. Those upland meadows
and pastures make it unnecessary for us to go to Europe for the Alps —
they are themselves true alps — high mountain pastures. It has also
occurred to me that the Three Sisters region might very appropriately
be set aside as a state park.
By way of conclusion, my Mazama friends, I shall tell you what
was the best part of all that experience to one member of your party,
and I dare say to each one of you as well, and that was the feeling of
having overcome something really formidable. Some there are I know
who are either genuinely unable to do this sort of thing or are too lazy
and are content to take their exercise passively at the expense of gaso-
line instead of sweat, who say in that tired way, "Oh! What's the use?"
We are glad there are some things in life upon which a cash value has
never yet been placed, which cannot be bought, sold, given away or stolen.
There are times when it is good for the soul of man, and his body too,
to have to wrestle with something and to conquer it, if for nothing else
than just to down it. Every one of those last four thousand feet, which
I put behind me and beneath me meant a greater mastery of and respect
for myself and it is because of this enriching experience, with its reward
28 A Geologists Thoughts
at the top, that I have a little tinge of pity for those lowland peoples
who have never stood on the pinnacles of the world and looked away
beyond the dwellings of men — who have never grappled with Nature
in her wildest moods. You who have stood amidst the crackle of elec-
tricity on the lonely mountain top, you who have looked into the bowels
of the ice-stream, you who have gazed into the yawning, hissing throat
of a volcano, you who have listened to the silence of the night in the fir
forest far above the snowline, you have indeed had "a sense of deeper
things."
"And I have felt a presence that disturbs me with the joy
Of elevated thoughts; a sense sublime of something far more deeply interfused,
Whose dwelling is the light of setting suns
And the round ocean and the living air,
And the blue sky and in the mind of man :
A motion and a spirit that impels all thinking things,
All objects of all thoughts,
And rolls through all things."
And so as we go in life from gaping craters of sorrow, through dim
and misty jungles of misunderstanding and doubt, out over sunlit
stretches surrounded by friends and up, ever up, to the Sinai of some
great inspiration, may we follow the lead of the Mazamas, and ring out
the challenging call, "Is everybody happy?"
My eyes dim for the skyline
Where the purple peaks aspire,
And the forges of the sunset
Flare up in golden fire.
There crests look down unheeding
And see the great winds blow,
Tossing the huddled tree-tops
In gorges far below;
Where cloud-mists from the warm earth
Roll up about their knees
And hang their filmy tatters
Like prayers upon the trees.
I cry for night-blue shadows
On plain and hill and dome, —
The spell of old enchantments,
The sorcery of home.
— Bliss Carman.
Lost Creek Valley
By HENDERSON DAINGERFIELD NORMAN
We were not pioneers in Lost Creek valley. Of distance, elevation,
and the like we have little data; but we saw the valley in fog and sun-
shine and this record tells of the things that are clearest in our memory.
To find the valley from Camp Riley, we set out in the general
direction of Husband mountain. Straight over the ridge we went and
across a long snow field. Here and there a gap in the mountains gave
us a framed picture of billowy blue hills to the west, while always the
Sisters stood eastward, white and glistening. We could tell which mem-
bers of the party were true children of the Pacific coast and which were
Easterners at heart by their choice of views, — the shining masses of
eternal snow, or the waves of the dear, blue mountains.
How far it is from Camp Riley to the mountain side that slopes
steeply down to Lost creek, I have no means of knowing and no more
accurate gauge than the remark, hissed fiercely into my ear by a
Mazama, returning fagged and footsore, "It's a right far piece to your old
flower patch."
It is always "a right far piece" to the Regions of the Blessed.
The flower show of Lost Creek valley begins with the cliff that
overhangs the trail. That cliff, when we first saw it in the August
sunshine, was glowing pink with the most beautiful of the penstemons,
rightly called "pride-of-the-moun tains." Along the trail were col-
linsias, honey-sweet, from the tiny varieties to tall "Chinese-houses,"
and calochortus lilies, and purple beard-tongue, and by the edge of the
little snow-stream that emptied into Lost creek were monkey flowers,
large and small, pale yellow, deeper yellow with conspicuously dotted
lip, and bright magenta.
Then came the first near view of the valley's flower carpet. It is
possible that the people who went on the Mazama trip to this valley
are the first who ever saw it in bloom, for usually, as soon as any growth
begins, the sheep are turned in. This year, the government had pro-
tected it by a special order, for the sake of science and the Mazamas,
and besides the snow fell so heavily and lay so late the sheepmen had
of necessity taken their flocks elsewhere.
With the memory of that first vision of Lost creek, comes the baf-
fling certainty that no one who has never seen a flower carpet can pos-
sibly believe you mean exactly what you say when you use that term.
The thing is so incredibly beautiful even while you look at it. Behind,
above, around, and even along the very edges of the creek itself, en-
30 Lost Creek Valley
croaching upon the very carpet, are miles and miles of snow. A few
hundred feet higher up, the white pine is fighting for life against the
bare face of a rock, and here is color and perfume and lavishness of
bloom such as you have never seen before.
The grass has the vivid green of grass that has grown quickly in
damp places, and yet at times that green is wholly lost and white and
blue and yellow supervene.
The ground along the trail begins to be boggy and all around are
white marsh marigolds. Below are buttercups, and lupine and larkspur.
Closer to the water's edge are saxifrage and little, delicate lilies, stenan-
thella, brown and rosy pink. Now the ridge is all above us and our
trail is made by following Lost creek. It runs full and crystal clear for
a mile, with hardly any perceptible fall. "Go where you like," says
the leader, "but keep ahead and stay on this side of the creek." It
sounds easy, but Lost creek will hardly let you know which is "this
side." It makes the most amazing loops and turns, and moreover the
most glowing castilleja blooms always on the other side. This "Indian
paint brush" of the Cascades we found in many varieties and in color
from palest yellow to orange, from pale pink to flaming crimson. Along
the creek, it was intermingled with the great white saxifrage, very
stately, and along the water's edge was a fine fringe of tiny many-colored
gentians.
But the most entrancing flower of the upper waters of Lost creek
is the glacier lily. This erythronium differs from the avalanche lily both
in size and color. We found myriads of its blossoms, slender, golden
and dancing, growing not only through melting snow, but actually push-
ing their delicate scapes through ice — a very miracle of strength made
perfect in weakness. The castillejas showed no less of hardihood. We
measured one that had pushed through six inches of snow before it
found daylight.
In these smooth upper waters of the creek, where it looped itself
around little flower-crowned islands and molded mimic straits and
promontories, our party found an irresistible invitation to bathe. Our
forces separated: the men went up the creek; the ladies, down. Bath-
ing suits were hurriedly improvised, — and if necessity is the mother,
she must also be, ex officio, the chaperon, of invention.
If we sought a scientific excuse for our digression, there was the
least saxifrage along the borders of the stream and Ranunculus aquatilis
in its very current.
Our first exploring trip ended with this adventure and the home-
ward climb began — a climb enriched by finding two varieties of pol-
emonium, and on the higher rocks, golden sedum and a new white
Lost Creek Valley 3 1
stone-crop, which we proudly identified later, as Gormanus, a genus dis-
covered in Alaska by M. W. Gorman, and bearing his name.
There were thousands of cat's ears, too, Calachortus Lobii, and
it is worth noticing, as additional proof of the value to science of these
annual Mazama outings, that while this calochortus is common in this
part of the Cascade range, and the flower just mentioned is not uncom-
mon, the former has heretofore been reported to the State University
only from Mount Jefferson and the latter not at all. The sheep have
hitherto come in before the botanists.
We climbed over vast beds of heather, true and false, red, yellow
and white ; and from that first Lost Creek valley expedition we brought
in seventy-seven distinct varieties of flowers, not mere botanical va-
rieties, but such as the amateur might easily distinguish.
On another day, ten hours of fog spent in this charmed valley
yielded less of the glory of the surrounding ranges and for that very
reason showed us more intensively the flowers that bloomed at our feet.
Already the glacier lilies were beginning to droop and the marsh mari-
golds scattered their petals as we touched them. This time we were
following the lure of Lost lake and as we went along the creek, it began
to fall precipitately, the valley narrowed to a bare channel between the
mounta ns and small bushes marked its course — vaccinium in all its
puzzling varieties, and thimbleberry, and farther down the creek, a
perfect foam of elk grass. We had been told of the falls we should find
by following this course, and very soon the silver of the stream had
turned to milk-white and it foamed and fretted and plunged. We
thought the first leap must be the falls, but another was from a greater
height, and at last it leapt downward in a cascade of many veils, silver
and swift and shining.
It is not an easy walk. At one point it is necessary to cross the
stream at a dizzy height, on a slippery log, and prayer and alpenstock
alike are needed to get you safely across. Much of the way is a scramble
among huge boulders close to the water's edge, with saplings to catch
at — and sometimes the sapling proves to be a devil's club. Aside, how-
ever, from the beauty of the falls, and the whole course of the creek it-
self, this part of the valley is deeply interesting to the botanist, for at
the cascades we come into another life zone. A thousand feet above,
we found the strictly alpine flowers, phloxes, polemonium, crucifers,
and soft, shining pussy-paws (Spraguea multiceps). Here orchids
and lilies multiplied. Here, too, we found betony, and elephants'
heads (Pedicular is Groenlandica) and chimaphila and pyrola. A be-
lated cluster of rhododendron shone among the trees. Undiscouraged
by the bigger, brighter flowers, the delicate tway blade held up its tiny
32 Lost Creek Valley
spike; the long-spurred green orchis was everywhere beneath our feet.
We found valerian, too, and wild roses, and saw the clear shining of
white bunchberry blossoms. On the face of a cliff, we found Roman-
zoffia, and it was like recapturing April in mid-August.
Then we came upon a marshy flat — surely the beginning of Lost
lake. We even saw Indian pond lilies in bloom. A heavenly sweet-
ness beguiled us, and we plunged boldly into the marsh and for a glori-
ous half hour waded in water above our boot tops. The perfume was
that of limnorchis, the great white bog orchid. It is not an uncommon
flower, and every summer in the mountains yields a few, but it is a for-
tunate flower-finder who finds half a dozen in a season, and here were
hundreds, thousands, tall and gleaming white and sweet beyond all
other fragrances. There were multitudinous spikes, too, of tall pedicu-
laris, and best of all as a discovery, the beautiful, floating flower-stalk
of the buckbean, once so common in northwestern America, and now
comparatively rare. Its flowers are not only exquisitely white but they
gleam as with hoar frost at the center.
While we were still in the marsh, the fog closed down, swathing
Lost lake somewhere in its folds. It was a disappointment and yet
it seems in memory part of the white magic of that valley that we never
found Lost lake.
Between the summit of the Middle Sister and the marsh below the
cascade, — is it to be called Duncan Falls? — we found not less than a
hundred and fifty varieties of plant life, not counting trees, ferns, mosses
or fungi.
In our fancy, there is a certain fitness in our last vision of Lost
Creek valley, with the ghostly whiteness of the fog and the heavenly
perfume of the palely shining spikes of the white orchis. But when we
talk together of Lost Creek we do not think of fog, but of August sun-
shine and a wide flower-filled valley, after miles of snow, and Kather-
ine Tynan's verse comes to our minds :
"Not one flower, but a rout,
All exquisite, is out.
All white and golden every stretch of sod.
As though one flower were not enough !
Thank God!"
Upper— South Sister from Lost Creek meadows. Middle— McH
above
the bridge. (Photographs by R. L. Clisan.) Lower — North Sister, after the snowstorm. (Photograph
by Ella P.
Roberts.)
Upper Lost Creek Meadows
By J. DUNCAN SPAETH
(Dedicated to the Mazamas at Camp Riley)
Up with the morning, and off o'er the snow fields
Merrily marched we away on the trail;
Bright in the sunlight, brown in the twilight
Our path wound along in search of the vale.
Twas the valley of promise, the valley of flowers
Hid by the ranks of the sentinel hills;
Gaily the waters of Lost Creek played through it,
Fed by the snows in silvery rills.
Darkly the precipice towered above it,
Thunder-split pinnacles wrinkled and old.
Higher still, snow peaks gleamed in the distance,
Pure as the dead, white, silent and cold.
But down in the valley green meadows were smilin *
Bright with the blossoms of earliest spring,
Buttercups, marigolds, lilies and windflowers
Fluttered and laughed and danced in a ring.
Columbines swinging,
Bluebells a-ringing,
Humming-birds winging,
All of them singing,
This was their song:
Back again, back again,
Back to the springtime —
Back to fresh Aprils of first love and truth;
Forget that life's morning is gone past returning,
Forget that the suns of mid-summer are burning,
Forget and come down to the lost stream of youth.
So we dipped down the hillside,
And tripped down the valley,
And danced with the flowers,
And joined in their song :
Back again, back again,
Back to the springtime —
Back to fresh Aprils of first love and truth;
Forgot that life's morning was gone past returning,
Forgot that the suns of midsummer were burning,
Forgot all the sadness of sober September,
Forgot we were nearing the nights of December,
Forgot — for we'd found the Lost Stream of our youth.
August 11, 1916.
Wild Life of the Three Sisters Region
By ALFRED C. SHELTON
The summer of 1916 found the Mazamas encamped high on "Old
Obsidian," at the west base of the Middle Sister, among the snow peaks
of the Cascades of eastern Lane county, Oregon. While rich in its
diversity of climatic phenomena and affording a wealth of never-to-be-
forgotten mountaineering experience, it was a summer in name only,
and many of the birds and beasts, driven from their haunts by the ex-
treme severity of the preceding winter, were forced to forsake their
mountain homes and seek milder regions elsewhere. Winter ended, but
no warm balmy days of spring blanketed the glistening peaks with
sunshine nor brought forth the wild flowers to run riot with color over
the soft green blankets of the mountain meadows. This year spring
was but a myth in the Oregon mountains, and summer entered, cold
and dreary, flashing at times an angry display of electrical wonders,
raining or snowing fitfully from a leaden and murky sky, settling down
with calm deliberation to day after day of cold driving fog. It en-
shrouded all with a chill and a murkiness which penetrated to the ut-
most depths of the thickest and warmest blanket in old "Camp Riley,"
but it could not dampen the ardor, dispel the enthusiasm nor quench
the camp fires which were the center of such jolly good-fellowship.
And so, on days when this heavy shroud hung like a pall over the cliffs,
when weary climbers vainly shaded their eyes for the first dim, hazy
outlines of little white tents in the fog, and hungrily sniffed the air for
the first welcome whiff from Doc's steaming pots of oyster beverage,
it seemed that this tiny colony of primates were the sole representatives
of the animal world in their mountain fastnesses of snow peak, dark,
sombre forest, and high cliff of black obsidian. But on days when
rain and snow ceased to fall, when the cold driving fog lifted and was
swept away, the sun broke forth in a blaze of splendor. In all direc-
tions stretched a wonderful vista of mountain peak and forest, with
meadows, carpeted not with grass and wild flowers, but with snow bank
and snowdrift, extending from the very doors of our tents, up and down
the mountain sides. Such tiny areas as were bare of snow were so cold
and saturated with icy water that plant life could not sprout and flourish
if it would, and there was an utter absence of the wonderfully beautiful,
though small, meadows so abundant throughout the region during the
average summer. Only in one favored spot in the Lost Creek valley
had Nature's garden burst into bloom, and high on the peaks, far above
timber line, a few hardy alpine flowers, mainly perennials, sought
Wild Life of the Three Sisters Region 35
sustenance in the vast expanse of ledge and shelf of crumbling lava.
Heather, ever ready to add its cheery presence, flourished everywhere
along the receding edges of the snow banks, nourished by the icy waters
from the melting snow. Squirrels and chipmunks had not emerged from
their winter quarters, a few gophers nosed about in the exposed patches
of earth, a cony or a marmot whistled from some ledge of lava, and on
bright sunny days, Oregon jays, "camp robbers," "whiskey jacks," or
"summit birds," as they are variously known, came foraging around
camp to pilfer and steal, or honestly search for discarded scraps from
the commissary. A solitaire occasionally mounted to the topmost
spray of some tall tree and favored those who were so fortunate as to
hear him with a burst of melody surpassed by none save possibly the
water ouzel, which in the wild fastnesses of his mountain home, perched
on some spray-dashed rock in mid-stream, ran up and down his scales
of wondrous music, carrying them far above the reach of noisy water-
fall and roaring cascade of the icy, glacial streams which raced madly
along to tumble down precipitous cliffs to north, south, east and west
of the little white tents of Camp Riley. So we were not absolutely
alone in the mountains, though as it was a hard year for the birds and
mammals, scarcely any save a few trained observers found anything
to interest them in the wild life of our mountain camp. If we could go
through this Three Sisters region again, on a warm balmy day of a
normal summer, when Frog Camp meadow is a riot of blue, yellow and
red, when White Branch tumbles along through banks of heather and
beautiful flowers, when meadows large and small dot Obsidian cliffs and
wander at random up the slopes of the mountains, when chipmunks and
golden-mantled squirrels scamper away from every log and rock, when
the trees along the trail resound with songs, calls, and cries of mountain
birds, or when from some distant ridge comes the slow dull booming of a
grouse, we could in a single day find a profusion of wild life sufficient
to gladden the heart of the most unobservant, and provide a wealth of
unceasing joy to the naturalist.
Geographical ranges of plants and animals are expressed mainly in
terms of "life zones." In the region of the Three Sisters mountains,
three life zones may be clearly and easily recognized. First and highest
is the Alpine-Arctic. This is the region of glacier and snow fields and
rocky lava ledge, high above timber line, at the utmost summits of the
highest peaks, where the only plants are a few hardy alpine forms, and
where bird and animal life seldom wanders.
Below the Alpine-Arctic zone we come to the Hudsonian, which
may be said to be the timber line zone, that belt extending around the
bases of the higher peaks, beginning at a point near the base of Obsidian
36 Wild Life of the Three Sisters Region
cliffs, below Camp Riley, and extending up the mountain sides to
timber line. Only two trees are found in abundance in this zone, the
Black Alpine hemlock (Psuga mertensiand) which formed the major por-
tion of the heavy forest around camp, and the White-bark pine (Pinus
albicaulis). Along the upper edges of this belt, at extreme timber line,
these trees become dwarfed and stunted, prostrate and often grotesque
in form, wind-whipped and distorted, dying out entirely along the
upper edges of the Hudsonian zone where it merges into the higher,
treeless, Alpine-Arctic above. Along the timber line border is a crawling
prostrate form of dwarfed and stunted Alpine juniper, also character-
istic of the Hudsonian zone.
Below the Hudsonian, stretching in a vast expanse along the en-
tire summit of the Cascades, below the higher peaks, is the great belt of
Jack-pine timber (Pinus contorta), and this is known as the Canadian
zone. This is also the belt of the Noble fir (Abies nobilis) and the Engel-
mann spruce (Picea Englemanni) . It is the zone found typically ex-
emplified by the jack-pine forests at Frog Camp meadow and other
points along the summit at a corresponding altitude.
These three zones, Alpine-Arctic, Hudsonian, and Canadian, consti-
tute the Boreal zones, the zones of the arctic and semi-arctic regions of
far northern latitudes, and the higher snow-capped peaks and summit
country of our Cascade range at high altitudes, in southern latitudes.
Below the Canadian, on the slopes of the Cascades, reaching down
into the western valleys, are the vast forests of Spruce (Pseudotsuga
taxifolia), Hemlock (Tsuga heterophylla) and Cedar (Thuja plicata), and
on the eastern slopes are the magnificent forests of Yellow pine (Pinus
ponderosd). These belts constitute the life zone which we call Transi-
tion, but with this zone we are not concerned, so let us go back to the
bird and animal life of the Boreal regions above, below, and around
Camp Riley.
The Alpine-Arctic fields of snow and ice are inhabited by but a
single bird, the Hepburn rosy finch, or Leucosticte (Leucosticte tephro-
cotis littoralis) . In the ledges of lava, jutting from the snow fields far
above timber line, this bird makes its home. It wanders widely through
eastern Oregon in winter, but only on the Middle Sister has it ever been
found nesting in this state. Three years ago we found it nesting in the
lava ledges near the summit of the Middle Sister, and again this sum-
mer I found the bird in its arctic haunts. One was in a lava ledge near
the extreme summit of the Middle Sister, and another was watched as
it flitted in and out of crack and cranny in the edge of the Big Crevasse,
near the upper end of the Collier glacier, between the North and Mid-
dle Sisters. This bird is doubtless to be found at other points at a cor-
Wild Life of the Three Sisters Region 37
responding altitude, but so far authentic summer records from other
arctic regions in Oregon are lacking.
Occasionally other forms wander up into this higher zone, to the
regions of ice and snow, often to meet a tragic end. This summer, in a
lava ledge near the summit of the Middle Sister, we found the skeleton
of a skunk, and his story was easily told. During the preceding summer
he had wandered up the mountain, far above his realm, and there, pos-
sibly crippled, weak from hunger, or simply lingering too long on the
summits, he was caught in a storm, buried in the snow, and perished.
Again, we read the story of another of nature's tragedies in the
crater of the South Sister. A tiny Audubon warbler, leaving the pro-
tection and sheltering warmth of the forested slopes below, had flown
up and up the mountain side, till he found himself, possibly at nightfall,
in the crater at the utmost summit. Weary and exhausted, perhaps,
from his long flight upwards, he settled himself in the snow to rest.
The warmth from his body thawed the icy crystals around him, and
formed a little cup-like depression into which his body gradually settled,
and there he slept, and there, his tiny feet drawn in among his feathers,
his head drawn back between his shouldrers, in an attitude of perfect
peace and slumber, we found him — frozen.
On the lower slopes of the higher peaks, where the hemlock forests
and white-bark pines form the Hudsonian zones, alpine birds may be
found in abundance. Here are Clarke nutcrackers, among the largest of
the mountain birds, conspicuous by their harsh, noisy calls, and the
striking black and white plumage of their wings. Feeding on the soft
green cones of the white-bark pines, the gray feathers of their heads
and throats are often stained a brilliant purple by the sap from the cones.
Here, too, flocks of crossbills feed in the conifers, wrenching the seeds
from the cones with their peculiar crossed mandibles which nature has
so admirably adapted to this purpose. This too is the true home of the
Townsend solitaire, most beautiful songster, and yet possibly the least
known, of the West. From some lofty tree or tall dead snag in the wild
fastnesses of his mountain home, he pours forth his wondrous song
where there are but few to hear. Varied thrushes (or Alaska robins)
may be found in the deeper recesses of this belt of alpine timber, though
very rarely. Most of these birds, which come south in such vast num-
bers during the winter, return north in spring to nest, but a few remain
with us and these seek seclusion in the dark sombre forests of the higher
mountains. Here they may be found feeding their young in some
bright sunny mountain meadow or calling out in their shrill mysterious
tones from some deep ravine. From the lower edges of this Hudsonian
belt of alpine timber, down through the great belt of jack-pines and
38 Wild Life of the Three Sisters Region
scattering firs which go to comprise the Canadian zone, bird life may
always be found in abundance. Here large flocks of pine siskins are
always on hand as they nest everywhere throughout this region, and
the same may be said of the Audubon warblers, mountain chickadees,
robins, red-breasted nuthatches, chipping sparrows, stellar jays and
Oregon jays. The latter are probably the most characteristic birds of
the summit, and their local name of "summit bird" is indeed appropri-
ate. They are the first to discover camp, and in their greed for plunder
will often enter the tents and pilfer from every nook and corner. In
the winter months, when snow lies deep over all this summit country,
these birds become a source of endless trouble to the high mountain
trappers, robbing the bait from the trap sets, and often springing the
traps. At this season of the year, driven by hunger they become very
gentle, and will eat crumbs from the hand of any one who will feed them.
Hermit thrushes may be found also throughout this summit country, but
very rarely, for they are wild and shy, and seek seclusion in the deep
ravines and heavy forests. All through these belts of heavy timber
along the summit, woodpeckers of various species are more or less plenti-
ful. On the lower slopes red-shafted flickers, Harris woodpeckers, and
red-breasted sapsuckers are fairly abundant. In the timber on the
higher slopes may be found a few Williamson sapsuckers, alpine three-
toed woodpeckers, and very rarely a large flame-crested pileated wood-
pecker, or cock-of-the-woods, as he is often called. Game birds are
rare at these high altitudes. Mountain quail seldom range above the
jack-pine Canadian belt, and the same is true of the ruffed grouse, or
native pheasant, but at certain seasons of the year sooty grouse (blue
grouse, or hooters), may be very abundant along the summit.
Birds of prey are often seen, and those most in evidence are red-
tailed hawks, as they wheel and circle high in the air. Now and then
goshawks may be seen along the higher ridges, or a turkey vulture
circling slowly high overhead. Cooper and sharp-shinned hawks may
often be encountered among the heavy timber, where they are a source
of constant terror to the smaller birds. The owls are represented only
by the dusky horned owl, the largest of the tribe, found everywhere in
the mountains.
In the dusk of evening, nighthawks may be seen sailing and swoop-
ing back and forth over the meadows, in their endless quest of insect
prey. Along the lava ledges of the higher ridges, and the edges of the
meadows, one may be so fortunate as to find the true white-crowned
sparrows, but very rarely. Hummingbirds range up the mountain sides
to the limit of trees, and may often be seen over glacier and snowfield
far above timber line. The commonest one and probably the only one
Wild Life of the Three Sisters Region 39
present, is the rufous hummingbird, though the Calliope hummer, a
typical high mountain, alpine bird, found at many points along the
crest of the Cascades, may be seen in the Three Sisters regions.
Mammals are plentiful in the high Cascades. During a normal
summer the meadows are fairly alive with alpine chipmunks, golden-
mantled ground squirrels, and gophers. The rank growth of grass,
flowers, and other alpine vegetation in the meadows harbors an abun-
dance of meadow mice, jumping mice, white- footed mice, shrews, water-
shrews, and other small, night-roving mammals which are, as a rule,
overlooked by any save the most observant. One of the most interest-
ing mammals of the high mountain regions is the cony, or pika, or Lit-
tle Chief hare, as he is variously called. This little beast spends the
greater part of his life beneath the lava, coming out for a short period
during the summer months. He is the very soul of industry. No sooner
does the snow melt than the little fellow is out looking for the first tender
shoots of alpine plants or grass. These are cut and piled in the sun to
dry. As soon as this "hay" is thoroughly cured, it is carried beneath the
lava ledges and stored for use during the long months of winter.
Marmots, cousins of the woodchuck, and often so called themselves,
may be found in any of the large lava flows along the summit, where
they forage through the summer, and spend the long months of winter
in hibernation in the depths of the snow-covered lava. Porcupines, with
their many good points, may also be found throughout this region, es-
pecially in the jack-pine forests, where they feed on the bark, especially
of the saplings and younger trees.
Oregon is justly noted for the wide variety of her products, and
not the least of these is the splendid quality of her fine furs. The sum-
mit country in the region of the Three Sisters is the scene of extensive
trapping during the dead of winter, when small mammals have sought
safety in hibernation, and when most of the birds, save a few hardy
forms, have been driven to milder climates, and when snow, ten to
twenty or more feet in depth, covers the summit for mile upon mile in
an unbroken blanket of white. The streams produce beautiful mink and
otter, their glossy and lustrous pelts cherished by all lovers of fine fur.
The forests along the crest of the range furnish excellent marten, and
some fisher, both of these being very valuable fur. This, too, is the home
of the snowshoe rabbit, which, like the Arctic hare of the north, turns
pure white in winter, to resemble more closely the snow in which he
lives. Here too are found weasels in some abundance, and these, like
the rabbits, turn pure white in winter and are then known to the wearers
of fur as ermine. Bob-cats, or lynx cats, are among the most abundant
fur bearers of the region, and hundreds of the "kittens," as the trappers
40 Wild Life of the Three Sisters Region
call them, are taken each year. Among the larger predatory animals,
wolves still range as scattered individuals or small packs through the
high mountains, and cougar are widely, though sparingly, scattered
throughout the region. Both of these are a serious menace to the game
of the region, destroying annually many deer and elk. Bear may be said
to be plentiful still in certain remote sections of the high Cascades, and
coyotes are of wide-spread and universal distribution, though by no
means so abundant as in eastern Oregon. But the toll of the hunter and
trapper is heavy. State regulation of the trapping season has proved
necessary, and has done much to afford protection to the fur bearers,
whose numbers are rapidly diminishing under the persistent persecution
to which they have been subjected in recent years. Mink, otter, beaver
and marten are rigidly protected by law; bear go unprotected, making
their way as best they can, while government trappers wage continual
warfare on such predatory beasts as cats, coyotes, cougar and wolves.
This brief account is not to be considered a complete story of the
wild life of the region of Three Sisters, but simply an introduction to
some of the birds and mammals of the high Cascades as one would find
them in their mountain haunts through winter and summer. It is to be
hoped that when the Mazamas again visit the scenes of this summer's
outing, they will find birds and mammals as plentiful as they always
are in the high mountains, when the summer is warm and sunny, and
weather conditions are more favorable than they were throughout the
summer which has just passed.
Think of those wooded spaces,
Think of the campfire's cheer !
The sound, sweet sleep, the lisp
Of the leaves in the wind, the crisp
And cleanly smell of the pines.
— Bliss Carmen.
Birds of River, Forest and Sky
By FLORENCE MERRIAM BAILEY
In recalling some delightful hours once spent among the birds
of McKenzie Bridge in the heart of the Cascade range, pictures of
three birds, the water ouzel, the nighthawk, and the winter wren,
come most vividly to mind; for they are creatures of the roaring,
sparkling, glacial river, of the still, dark, coniferous forest, and above
the encircling mountains, of the peaceful sunset sky.
An Hour with the Dipper
What rare memories of the Sierra Nevada and Rocky Mountains
the name of dipper or water ouzel recalls! Memories of moving
shadows along the dusky banks of cascaded forest brooks; memories
of a gray, short-tailed bird standing alertly, questioningly, on a rock
in the river as your pack train appears, and at your advance, with short-
winged flight buzzing over the dashing spray to another rock farther
down the river ; memories of a small gray figure on the edge of a quiet
lake in a lofty glacial amphitheater.
Good hunting grounds are offered the dippers by the McKenzie
river when, after rushing down from the glaciers of the Three Sisters to
the middle reaches of the Cascades, it has lost most of the glacial silt
that made it milky above, and after plunging headlong over rapids,
spreads out green in the level stretches where jutting rocks rise above
the surface and shingly bars lie along the shoals. Here, unlike the river
at the foot of the glaciers where the birds are found in summer, the
ouzels' hunting grounds are never closed to them, for although the water
from the icy peaks warms very slowly — giving a record of 41° in June —
between rapids the current is too swift to admit of its ever freezing over.
A familiar chattering call and glimpses of a small gray form disap-
pearing over the water now up and now down stream, together with an
occasional whitewashed rock along the bank, has told us of the presence
of this lovely bird which adds a charming touch of life to the wild
mountain torrents of the west. A devoted habitue of the river who had
wandered in happy exploration far up its forested banks told of re-
peatedly finding the ouzel near a cabin overlooking the river, and led
me up along a woods trail to the spot. A long bar at a turn of the
river was said by the friendly observers on the high bank above to
be the favorite feeding ground of a pair of the birds, and whitened
stones at the end of the shingle attested the fact. So, sitting down
in sight of the spot, we prepared to watch the birds dine.
42 Birds of River, Forest and Sky
After waiting a long time for their appearance, my friend suddenly
pointed to the water on the edge of the bar, where a charming little
creature, looking very bluish gray in the strong sunlight, with motion-
less wings was daintily paddling about in the shallow water as much
at ease as if it had been a web-footed duck. Memories of ouzels that
hunted and swam among the cascades of Squaw creek on Mt. Shasta
returned to me at the sight. In the strong sunlight, gradations of color
unseen in dark woods were observable, the head of the bird looking
almost purplish, the tips of its wings and the short tail dark slate, while
the lighter under parts were faintly scored.
When the ouzel started to swim, it would put its head under the
water as if locating something, and then, quivering its wings, disap-
pear altogether, coming up soon after with a long, black-shelled cad-
dice fly larva, the shell of which, as we proved later, is a remarkable
mosaic of minute stones. Known locally as grampus, the larva serves
as bait for many of the visiting fishermen along this far-famed trout
stream. When the bird brought up a grampus, it would shake the
long shell till it finally broke open, and, pulling out the yellowish brown
larva, quickly swallow it.
After bringing up and eating several of the larvae, the ouzel picked
about in the submerged green mats that suggested sea- weed. Once it
stood on a stone green with moss long enough to bring out the strong
color contrast of the green and the gray. When walking about over the
rocks it would make its droll little courtesies — dip, dip, dip — till you
were constrained to speak its name — dipper.
When it had had a satisfying meal it flew across the river to a
stone on the shaded bank, where, in terms of protective coloration,
it perfectly pictured its background, for its gray upper parts disap-
peared in the dark shadow, the lighter shade of its breast toned in with
the sun on the rock, and only its light-colored legs were left as slender
sticks quite foreign to any bird-like suggestion. But when its profiled
bill and head projected into the sun, the bird form was restored. When
it moved to a branch hanging over the water and the sun touched
up the branch, the plump gray form became a mere knob on the limb,
so perfectly did it again picture its background. But when it dipped
with the sun on it, on the instant the illusion was lost, the knob be-
came a bird again — which, to my reading, explains the dipping, for
how else could shadowy intangible family forms keep together?
After the ouzel's meal out on the bar it sat quietly for some time
on the shaded bank, doubtless enjoying the spray that occasionally
dashed over it from the small rapids. While it was resting, I had time
to look about and observe its setting — over its head a band of low green
Birds of River, Forest and Sky 43
alders, above, a high dark spruce wall with glimpses of mountain tops
beyond, and up the river, the rushing, roaring, glacial river, patches
of white rapids enclosed by converging lines of green, swiftly running
water.
A metallic chatter below us made me look down just in time to
see a second bird come flying in and alight in strong sunshine where,
in wren-like pose, with head raised and short tail up at an angle, it
stood out clear and dark. Water-wrens, the people of the camp above
well called them. As we looked, the new arrival disappeared along the
bank below us.
Meanwhile its mate, if as was doubtless the case they were a pair,
having at last digested its grampus dinner, stretched and dipped and
started out after another meal ; this time hunting over the rocks along
its strip of shaded shore. Back and forth it went over a short beat,
hunting till it found a larva, when, flying or swimming back with it in
its bill to a certain small stone that it seemed to have selected as dining-
room, it would stand and shake and shake till, as I could see through
my field glass, the yellowish brown larva came out of its stony case.
Once, as the ouzel, in shaking, threw up its wing to keep from slipping,
I caught a flash of white under wing coverts.
While we were watching the bird, a little girl from the camp above
came down the bank for a pail of water, and when I urged her to be
quiet exclaimed that the water-wrens paid no attention — "even when
we 're hollering" up at camp. Under the bank below us the child
caught sight of the second dipper, which was hunting as the first one
had by the bar, going down under the water in search of grampus. But
as we watched it flew across, low over the white crests of the green waves,
to hunt in the shade of the opposite bank, where its mate, if it were he,
was getting his supper.
At one time both birds stood on the same branch, the new comer
on the low swaying tip where the water was dashing up. Its mate had
found so many larvae that its crop fairly bulged and it had to rest be-
tween feasts. The newcomer worked up along the bank, getting me
excited over a dark object that for a few moments I fondly imagined
was a mossy nest.
But although I had to leave for another year that most interesting
of discoveries, I had seen one of the choice hunting grounds of the water
ouzel in the heart of the Cascades. And right royal water sprites they
seemed, to have chosen this wonderful mountain river for their home.
For it was a rushing, roaring river with its "wild white horses" hurrying
to the sea, the great brown boulders in its bed that tried to stay their
course making them stamp the green depths of the swirling current
44 Birds of River, Forest and Sky
and "foam and fret" till they tossed their snowy manes! What a fascin-
ating, beautiful river, with its rushing water, its green depths, its roll-
ing stones, its deep- voiced plunge of rocks ! How the gray water sprites
must love its life and sparkle! How joyously must they sing their love
songs over its dashing, glistening spray!
The Glowing Nighthawk Prairie
From the upper piazza of the Log House at McKenzie Bridge we
looked across the road, with its screen of low trees behind which was a
mountain park, part of a strip of original prairie, now yellow with
blooming St. Johnswort, and later, when the flowers had dulled, fairly
twinkling with small yellow butterflies, as if the golden flowers had
taken wing! At the back of the park an enclosing wall of fir carried
the eye up the timbered slopes of the mountains to Horse Pasture and
the bare rocky peaks of the ridge above, said to command a wonderful
view of the snowy peaks of the Three Sisters at the head of the Mc-
Kenzie.
Crossing the park one morning early in July, I roused a Pacific
nighthawk sleeping on the ground, and the short mottled stick, unfold-
ing long, white-banded wings, rose high in air calling Pe-uck and flying
about with the expert tilting, rolling flight that characterizes the aero-
naut. After that, at sunset, when the prairie floor glowed a dull orange
the birds could be heard from the house and I often went out to watch
them. Occasionally a few Vaux swifts or a passing flock of swallows
served to give scale to the four large long-winged nighthawks which
were said to be feeding on winged ants high in the sky, and which be-
tween times indulged in aeronautic feats of courtship display.
Back and forth over the prairie, calling continuously Pe-wick or
Pe-uck, they flew, sometimes so low that I could see the white of their
under parts, but generally too high to see even the wing bars, and at
times so high that their long wings became mere thread lines and almost
disappeared beyond the field of vision. In feeding they flew rapidly
head on until presumably they came to quarry, when suddenly put-
ting on brakes they would almost halt, and act as if snapping up insects
with their widely gaping mouths.
When not absorbed in catching insects, two birds would often fly
near each other in courtship play, and sometimes three flew together,
as if the matter of mates were not yet settled. Frequently one of the
suitors would come swooping down close to the ground or sometimes
only to midair, when he spread his wings wide and the air boomed loudly
through the quills — a familiar performance indicating a peculiar fond-
ness for pyrotechnics on the part of feminine onlookers.
Birds of River, Forest and Sky 45
One sunset, while the four long-winged birds were cavorting about
the sky, as I walked across the prairie floor a soft low chorus arose from
little choristers, presumably Western chipping sparrows, hidden among
the glowing weeds, — a chorus so subdued and sweet that it went well
with the soft evening light.
And still overhead the nighthawks beat back and forth through
the sky, till their breasts grew ruddy in the sunset light, till the notch of
the McKenzie leading toward the Three Sisters, earlier filled with radiant
cumulus clouds, softened to rose; till, as the sun lowered, the timbered
ridge at the back of the park, earlier vitalized by light and shade, had
dulled, and above it the gulch of the bony lava ridge had filled with
shadow, while the Saddle and Baldy had flushed with rose. Back and
forth they flew till the mountains themselves grew cold and there re-
mained only rosy streaks on Castle Rock and salmon clouds in the sky
above; until at last they sailed around over the glowing field with its
encircling black conifers as the evening star came out clear and bright
above the golden afterglow; when down the road the light of a camp
fire showed in the deepening shadows, and it seemed time to leave them
to their night watch in the sky.
Forest Homes of the Winter Wren
The jolly little brown Western winter wrens, with their short tipped-
up tails, enliven the humid coast belt from Alaska to California and
are met with at McKenzie Bridge in the heart of the Cascades, where
they are as cheering as the occasional arresting red sprays of barberry.
One that we surprised when it was hunting over a fallen tree-top
stopped to look at us, and when I gave a poor imitation of its te-tib
stretched up on its wiry legs in listening attitude and then bobbed
on its springs. Its droll courtesy, much like that of the dipper, would
certainly help to keep families together in their shadowy haunts, though
both dipper and wren have acquired such a nervous habit of bobbing
that they do it when it might attract the attention of unfriendly ob-
servers.
The little brown wrens who chatter and babble and pipe so gaily
were met with in some of the choicest parts of the forest. On one of
the fishermen's trails along the river where stumps bearing the marks
of beaver teeth led to the discovery of hemlock poles dragged down the
bank for their toothsome bark, and where a brotherhood of forest giants
stood with the sun slanting in on their mossy sides, we surprised a family
of wrenkins swarming over the bank like so many brown bumblebees;
but they were quickly suppressed and spirited out of sight by their
efficient parents.
46 Birds of River, Forest and Sky
Up the river near the dippers' home the wrens were found in
one of the best tracts of timber in the whole region, where the wood
road wound among trees five to eight feet through, their bare trunks
rising a hundred to a hundred and fifty feet to the first branch ; one tree
that was measured after being cut reaching a hundred and seventy-
five feet to the first branch.
In this stand of timber the spaces between the great boles were
filled in only with cedars, from whose smooth flat leaves the sunlight
seemed to slide off, and with low deciduous maples, both the vine and
the Oregon, that caught the sun in their vivid green tops. In this won-
derful forest the cheery bubbling song of the winter wren which crept
around over stumps and logs was very grateful, harmonizing well with
the patches of vivid sunlight.
In still another part of the forest, reached by a trail from the bloom-
ing prairie park where the nighthawks boomed at sunset, the friend
who had shown me the hunting grounds of the water-ouzels up the
river took me to see what was known as "Uncle's Woods," a stand of
timber owned by an old man, one of the most respected and best loved
characters of the region.
As we wandered about among the great Sitka spruces we heard the
familiar voice of the little brown woodlander. Following him across a
green carpet, where at each step we sank deep in the moss, we came to
a big log covered with moss and ferns leading to a tree whose great base
was heavily cushioned with the brownish green moss for which these
humid forests are famous. The branches were hung with bulging pock-
ets that suggested one of the canopied winter wrens' nests found in
another part of the woods, a green nest made wholly of the fresh moss
except for its reinforcement of springy twiglets that made an especially
good frame for the round doorway. Instinctively I started to examine
the bulging pockets, but as so many offered good nesting sites I soon
realized that the search might be endless, and the woods were already
dusky.
Meanwhile, wherever his house was hidden, the brown mite of
which I had caught only aggravating glimpses, suspiciously refused to
do more than answer me from the dark recesses of the woods, retreating
as if to lead me away. As I peered vainly through the shadows in his
direction under the high dark conifers a low deciduous tree stood out,
fairly glowing green as if it had focused all the light now entering the
darkening forest. Beyond it stood green-leafed alders and maples draped
heavily with the golden brown moss. A wondrous forest home the little
wren had chosen for himself! As we started away and once more
crossed the mossy carpet the bird, so suggestively silent before, burst
Birds of River, Forest and Sky 47
out into a low, exquisite song of happiness that could but have celebrated
the escape of his loved ones.
Beyond the home of the Wrens we came to the best part of "Uncle's
Woods," a stand of giant cedar. "The old man says he comes to walk
among them every Sunday," my friend said gently. And no wonder,
for cut off as they are from all but devout lovers of the forest, their
ways are ways of quietness and in their paths are peace. Well might
the old man, used to listening low to the voice of nature, stand reverently
at the foot of one of these giant cedars that, with straight clean bole
towering skyward confronts one with its challenge: "The place whereon
thou standest is holy ground."
As we turned away from the noble brotherhood in silence and fol-
lowed the narrow trail back toward the edge of the forest, the voices
of the woodlanders were stilled, for the dark organ pipes stood out
against the quiet light of the yellow sunset afterglow.
AAA
The Electric Storm on Middle Sister
By G. W. WILDER
The official trip of the Mazamas to the summit of Middle Sister
on the morning of August 12, will long be remembered by those par-
ticipating in this memorable event. The electrical storm which oc-
curred a short time after the party reached the summit and the conse-
quent hasty descent and return to camp have furnished topics for con-
versation far out of the ordinary. The personal experiences related by
individuals and the several press reports seem to vary greatly in many
details as might be expected in an exciting adventure of this kind, al-
though everyone agrees substantially to the main facts which occurred.
Incidentally, many inquiries have arisen as to the causes and actions
of electrical storms and the dangers to human life on such exposed places
as the summits of high mountains.
The party, consisting of over fifty persons, left camp early in the
morning and under the very able and competent guidance of the leaders
all reached the summit a few minutes after noon. At that time the air
was clear and a good view could be had in all directions except to the
southwest where clouds were apparently forming. A slight wind was
blowing from the east and the temperature was very agreeable. The
party assembled at the topmost point and were quickly busied with the
48 The Electric Storm on Middle Sister
Mazama book, lunches and cameras. Those who knew pointed out the
several mountains of the Cascade range, the location of various cities
and otherwise informed the small groups of interested listeners.
Meanwhile the clouds in the southwest were rapidly forming and
advancing towards us, notwithstanding the fact that the wind, which
freshened a bit, was blowing from the east. In a few minutes South
Sister was shut from view, the western sky was blackened and soon an
ominous grumble of distant thunder sent a little thrill of fear through
the minds of the more timid ones. However, as the conditions seemed
to indicate a passing flurry and all were anxious to see more of the won-
derful views, the party huddled around in groups watching the big
black cloud which resolved itself each moment out of the darkening
mists behind. Swiftly it appeared and soon enveloped us and then came
rain, hail, and wind. At moments the clouds were rolled back by the
eastern wind, and one could catch glimpses of the great wheat fields of
central Oregon spread out in the glorious sunshine far down below. The
sun and wind gave promise of dispelling the clouds, but the next moment
we were covered again with dense banks of fog. It was a battle royal
between the winds and the clouds. At other times we could catch
glimpses of the clouds forming all along the west side of the Cascades
and advancing as if in battle array. It was an interesting sight up there
watching the struggle for supremacy. Our hopes and desires were with
the eastern wind and many spoke with optimism declaring that the
storm would soon pass.
An occasional flash in the south or west followed by rolls of distant
thunder warned us that more was coming and the prospect of an early
passing of the storm seemed disappointing. Prepared and determined
to weather it out for a little while, the party nestled among the rocks and
waited. The lightning flashes grew closer and sharper, the thunder be-
came more violent and then it seemed as though the whole heavens
above were charged with electricity for one could hear the crackling
and snapping of discharges among the clouds. Suddenly we experienced
a most astounding sensation. The rocks gave forth a hissing sound
from every edge and corner, the alpenstocks crackled and hummed and
one felt a peculiar sensation from the finger tips and the hair. Speechless
for a moment the crowd gaped, then burst out in cries of astonishment.
Fear mingled with wonderment were plainly visible on the faces of all.
This phenomenon lasted about five seconds and then ended as
suddenly as it began. While members of the party were recovering from
the surprise and some were attempting to explain that it was a discharge
of static electricity from the clouds, the phenomenon began again and
continued for several seconds. This was repeated at irregular intervals
The Electric Storm on Middle Sister 49
and with varying degrees of intensity. Sometimes the noises became
so great as to cause anxiety as to our safety and several moved to lower
rocks less sheltered from the wind and hail. Many were reminded
by the sound of the discharges of the operation of a wireless telegraph
plant and it did seem as though someone were working a switch, so sud-
denly did the phenomena begin and end each time. After a particularly
long and severe experience the leaders fell to discussing the advisability
of returning to camp, the ladies were struggling with disheveled hair
and the young men were trying to shock each other with alpenstocks
when a sharp flash of lightning, followed by a loud peal of thunder in the
near south, abolished all thought of remaining and the party started
hurriedly down.
Six of us elected to remain, for it looked as though the clouds might
be driven back, so even was the contest between the winds. Also the
suddenness of the storm led us to believe that it would soon wear itself
out. While waiting we could see at intervals the sun shining on the
east side of the range, although the storm had traveled all along the
western side far to the north. After the main party had left, those of
us remaining experienced longer and more severe electrical discharges
and after a half hour of rain and hail we began to lose hope of the
storm's clearing. The discharges became so violent and continuous that
a prickling sensation was caused on the crown of the head and our hats
joined in the chorus of hissing and crackling noises. This sensation
turned to a sort of headache and the ears began to ring with high pitched
noises. Even at this time no sparks were visible although the corners
of rocks and the ends of our fingers and the alpenstocks were closely
examined. Some rocks seem to hiss more than others and the hissing
noise could be traced to definite corners and sides although there seemed
to be no connection between the amount of noise and the size or loca-
tion of any particular rock.
We were reluctantly thinking of leaving, when a sharp crack over-
head and a flash of lightning at the same instant left no doubt in our
minds, and we began a hurried descent by the short route on the north
side. While going down this steep and slippery trail it rained and hailed
as never before, and if we had any notions of catching up with the main
party they were doomed to disappointment for all were in camp long
before we arrived. We have often wondered how they made such good
time. Arriving at camp we learned that the stay-at-homes were not
without their exciting experiences too, and the storm was made more
general by the stories of charged ironware in the cook's quarters. The
gyrations of Doc. Weston and his assistants have caused many a laugh
and will be equally well remembered.
50 The Electric Storm on Middle Sister
Since this interesting experience on the summit of Middle Sister
many have wondered how often such phenomena occur and whether
the danger is as great as one would naturally fear at the time. The
absence of more abundant and complete data on the subject is undoubt-
edly due to the rare intervals when high mountains are visited by human
beings. Several of the older and more experienced members of our party
declared that they had never seen nor heard of an occurrence like this
one, and it is rare indeed that a whole party should encounter such a
storm. To those of an inquiring mind the study of such a phenomenon
offers many inducements, and although our present knowledge of at-
mospheric electricity is meager, it is very useful in helping us to under-
stand some of the more common of lightning discharges.
We know from experience that bodies may become electrified by
friction and that when two different kinds of materials, as glass and silk,
are rubbed together the electrification may be imparted to pieces of tis-
sue paper and other light bodies. These will become charged by coming
in contact with the glass, and will be repelled and otherwise show the
effects of being electrified. Many interesting experiments are well
known to all students of physics as well as several important laws gov-
erning electrical action.
It is thought that the particles of water vapor in the air become
charged with electricity by being blown across the rocks and trees on
the earth's surface and that these particles carry their charges thus
gained with them up into the higher layers of the atmosphere. When
the particles assemble into a cloud the charges are under a greater strain
or pressure than when the particles are in the form of vapor. In this
way the clouds are electrified with a considerable quantity of electricity
which is stored up under a great pressure tending to escape. Ordinarily
the air is a good insulator and will not allow the electricity to escape
to the ground, but when subjected to too great an electrical pressure
it allows a gradual escaping of the charges and at a still greater pressure
it breaks down completely and becomes a first rate conductor, allowing
a complete discharge from the clouds to the earth. This in brief is the
present theory of lightning discharge. Dr. Lodge, of England, divides
lightning discharges into two general classes; one in which the discharge
takes place slowly, and the other in which it occurs abruptly. The first
he calls the steady strain discharge and the second the disruptive dis-
charge.
The steady strain discharge is the result of the clouds slowly drift-
ing over a mountain top under conditions which allow the discharge to
take place fast enough to prevent the building up of a great pressure.
The disruptive discharge takes place when the conditions are such that
The Electric Storm on Middle Sister 5 1
the pressure is built up very quickly as when one cloud suddenly ap-
proaches or meets another one. In such a case the air is unable to dis-
charge the electricity as fast as it accumulates and breaks down, result-
ing in a distinct flash accompanied with a peal of thunder. The steady
strain discharge takes place quietly as a rule, although in many cases it
produces a hissing noise such as experienced in our adventure.
On the plains and in the valleys the lightning discharges are usually
of the disruptive type, for the clouds float along at a considerable dis-
tance above the ground and the intervening air prevents any gradual
escape of the electricity. When clouds come near each other, however,
the pressure becomes so enormous that the air then breaks down and a
flash is the result. On the mountains the clouds come nearer to the
earth since many of the peaks in our Cascades rise far above the level
of clouds during storms, and consequently the conditions for a gradual
escape of the electricity are better. Whether the mountains are always
able to relieve the clouds fast enough by the steady strain method to
prevent an accumulation of electricity and so prevent a violent dis-
charge of the disruptive kind, is the much argued question among the
students of science. There are evidences of violent strokes of lightning,
although they are quite rare as regards the extreme tops of mountains.
There are plenty of evidences of such strokes on the sides and at places
farther down. Most of such evidence is in the form of accounts of per-
sons who have witnessed the phenomena. Other evidence is found in
the great heating effect which such lightning strokes produce, such as
the fusing of the rocks or of mineral veins.
It will also be noticed that the average storm forms and starts
operations quite high up in the atmosphere and gradually descends to
the lower levels. It was this knowledge that induced the six to remain
behind the main party. We hoped that the storm would soon break or
settle down to lower levels and leave us above in clear air. Although
we did not remain long enough, the storm did descend as was shown by
the several violent flashes that occurred far down below in the valleys,
some time after, while we were nearing camp. One of the effects was
noticed the next day by one of the members of the party, who discovered
a large tree freshly shattered by lightning.
In order to seek evidence of lightning strokes on the summit, the
writer made a second ascent of Middle Sister one week later, accompa-
nied by Mr. B. W. Griffith of Los Angeles. A careful search under the
finest of weather conditions failed to reveal any conclusive evidence of
lightning, although it is doubtful if one could tell from the rocks whether
they had suffered from lightning strokes or not, as their natural weather-
ing might be confused with fusing effects. It will be remembered that
52 The Electric Storm on Middle Sister
the rocks forming the summit are igneous in character and would not
reveal such effects as readily as other kinds. The result of our trip left
the matter in doubt.
Since our eventful trip, attention has been called to a Mazama
record box which was formerly on the summit of this very mountain
and is now on exhibition in the rooms of the Chamber of Commerce.
This box is flat and made of zinc. The corners are pierced with holes
and one of them shows unmistakable evidence of having been fused as
if by a lightning stroke. This would indicate that violent and unsafe
lightning discharges have occurred on the summit of Middle Sister and
that it is not a safe place for human beings to be during a storm.
It will be seen that the Cascade range plays an important part in
the weather conditions of central Oregon. The valleys between the
several mountain ranges from the coast to the Cascades experience very
few violent lightning strokes on account of these ranges, which keep the
air rather well discharged of electricity. It is usually the great plains
of the Middle West of our country where there are no mountain ranges
for hundreds of miles that very violent storms are expected every season.
AAA
The Jaunt of the Four
By JOHN A. LEE
An organization is often at a loss to know what to do with its ex-
presidents. Seeming to forget that they no longer are in authority
they manifest at times a decided penchant for "butting in." The re-
sult is embarrassment for the existing administration. With a con-
sciousness of this fact more or less clearly defined, four ex-presidents
of the Mazamas decided that, for their summer's trip of 1916, they
would not enroll themselves as members of the Club's outing but would
organize a little expedition all their own. They were influenced to
this decision by the further fact that, though having scaled nearly all
the snow peaks in Oregon and Washington and many of those in Cali-
fornia and British Columbia, there was a particular section of their
own state that they had never visited. None had ever caught more
than a passing glimpse of the many scenic attractions to be found along
the Deschutes, and this region, it was agreed, was to be their main
objective. Incidentally they planned to drop in upon and pay their
respects to the Mazama camp at the Three Sisters. Then they would
The Jaunt of the Four 53
hie themselves away again before their presence could be considered
in the least objectionable.
C. H. Sholes, M. W. Gorman, R. L. Glisan and the writer made up
the party. Sholes has so far fallen from grace as a hiker as to have
become an earnest devotee of the joys of motoring. Gorman is a tree
expert of national repute, has a general knowledge of botany that is
exceeded by few, and is an ardent collector of botanical specimens.
Glisan, as an amateur photographer and tireless globe trotter, has in
his collection, probably, more complete sets of views taken on differ-
ent trips than is possessed by any other amateur in this particular line
of accomplishment. The writer can boast of no special outing talent,
except that he is supposed to develop a mild form of insanity whenever
a trout stream is known to be in striking distance. These were the avo-
cations of the respective members of the party, but the vocation of all
for the two weeks at their disposal was to enjoy life to the fullest in the
great out-of-doors.
Sleeping bags, provisions, camp equipage, pack-sacks for side
trips, botanical presses, and fishing tackle were all quickly gotten to-
gether and loaded into Sholes' "Hup," and on the morning of August
10 we bade goodbye to Portland and were away. Speeding rapidly
up the west side of the Willamette through Newberg, Dayton, Hope-
well, Independence, Corvallis, and Eugene, thence turning eastward
up the McKenzie, we made camp the first night on the banks of this
delightful stream, twenty-four miles from Eugene and one hundred
and sixty miles from Portland. The roads thus far were good, the "Hup"
was working beautifully and no stops were made except for lunch, to
add a few articles to our commissary, and to collect an occasional plant
specimen that Gorman "simply had to have." On the McKenzie the
first Incense cedars (Libocedrus decurrens) were noted, a tree that is
readily distinguishable from the more common Western red cedar
(Thuja plicatd} in that the leaves on the branchlets are tipped up ver-
tically instead of extending out horizontally as in the case of the West-
ern red cedar. Here the two frequently were seen growing side by side.
The writer gazed longingly at the pools and rapids of the McKenzie,
having in mind the far famed piscatorial reputation of this stream, but
the others said no, and early morning found us on our way.
Until after noon we continued along the McKenzie, making slower
progress as the road was not so good, and passing through some fine
groves of Oregon's most valuable and prolific tree, Douglas fir (Pseudo-
tsuga taxi/olio). Western hemlock (Tsuga heterophylla) was also com-
mon and an occasional Western yew (Taxus brevifolid), was observed.
Crossing Lost creek at 2 :30 p. m. we soon were on the heavy grade that
54 The Jaunt of the Four
leads up into McKenzie Pass. Steep as was the grade and rough the
way, the auto never flinched and 4 :30 p. m. found us in Frog Meadow,
at an altitude of 4,750 feet. Here, at this sub-alpine elevation, we noted
a variety of coniferous trees: Western hemlock, which farther north
in the Cascades is not found so high above sea level, Noble fir (Abies
nobilis), Lovely fir (Abies amobalis), Western white pine (Pinus monti-
cold) and Lodgepole pine (Pinus contortd). This last-named tree also
has a wide altitudinous range, unless, as Gorman strongly contends, a
distinction is to be drawn between the Pinus contorta of the coast and
the Pinus contorta of the mountains and elevated plains. The latter
he would designate as Pinus contorta murrayana or Pinus murrayana,
a distinction which Sudworth, however, does not recognize. Thus do
great minds differ.
At this point we left the auto, made up our packs, taking provisions
for four days, cached all surplus outfit and soon were "hitting the trail"
for the Mazama camp. As we made elevation up the trail the tree
life rapidly changed. The various species before mentioned soon gave
way to Mountain hemlock (Psuga mertensiana), Alpine fir (Abies lasio-
carfpa) and White-bark pine (Pinus albicaulis), which are the three
characteristic trees of the alpine regions of the Cascades. Our packs
were heavy, and soon perspiration welled from every pore. By dint of
steady plugging, however, we placed the lava beds behind us, clambered
up Obsidian cliff through drifts of snow and hove into camp just at
7 p. m., being received with vociferous acclaim. At the camp fire that
night we were each formally presented by Prexy Riley in his happy and
inimitable style. So fulsome was he in extolling our supposed virtues
and achievements as Mazamas that we were glad the shadows were
deep so as to hide our blushes.
We will not dwell at length upon the doings of the Mazama camp
during our four days sojourn there. They are fully recounted else-
where in this number of Mazama. As members of one of the official
climbing parties, we experienced the severe electric storm on the summit
of the Middle Sister, when "each particular hair stood on end like quills
on the fretful porcupine." One very pleasant day was consumed in
botanizing in Lost Creek valley, another in ascending to the north sum-
mit of the North Sister. We regretted that time did not permit us to
essay the climb to the south and somewhat higher summit of this peak,
immortalized by the late and much lamented Prouty. Our bivouac
among the stalwarts on "Punkin Ridge" proved to be well chosen. In
the preparation of "chow" each of the four was chef, with ever ready
and voluble defense 'of his prerogative. As a result a highly edified
audience was always present at meal time "to see the animals perform."
ia
Photographs by R. L. Glisan
Upper left— Mr. Glisan and his "Dolly". Upper right— Paulina falls, below West lake. Lower
left— Ranger's trail to rim of crater through lodgepole pine. Lower right— Lava inferno, near road
east of Frog Camp.
I-3
•C. C3
2 .£
I?
o
II
li
The Jaunt of the Four 55
It was with a feeling of genuine regret that we paid our final respects
to the camp, shouldered our packs and descended to the auto at Frog
Meadow.
The air of early evening was clear and crisp as we crossed McKenzie
Pass. Anxious as we were to make the town of Sisters on the eastern
slope before dark, we could not refrain from lingering in the pass to
survey the scene about us. To the south loomed the Three Sisters,
pure in their mantle of snow; to the north were Washington and Jef-
ferson; while all between was lava, lava, lava — lava that had flowed
from countless different cinder cones in streams that crossed and criss-
crossed in inextricable confusion. Piled up into huge windrows, con-
torted and twisted into all sorts of fantastic shapes, forming huge cav-
erns, large enough to take in a good sized house, black and forbidding
in aspect, these lava beds were withal most interesting. In one place
a large lava stream had encountered a large mound or butte in its flow.
Separated into two branches, it swept down on either side of the butte ;
then the two, again uniting, formed a veritable island in a river of lava.
Fascinated and awed, we were loath to depart, but the shades of night
were falling and this was no place to camp.
Descending rapidly, we were soon among the yellow pines of cen-
tral Oregon — Western yellow pine (Pinus ponderosd). Having sufficient
water for cooking, we made a dry camp a few miles west of Sisters, in
a vast open park, absolutely devoid of undergrowth. The deep and
beautiful coloring of the tree trunks seemed intensified by the moon-
light and the effect was almost spectral.
Passing through Sisters by noon, we soon were at the Metolius, a
cold, crystal-clear stream that pours out of the lava from a number of
great springs and becomes a mighty river in a stretch of seven miles.
It is some trout stream, too. Thirty beautiful red-sides fell victims to
our lure. Here we found the first Western larch (Larix occidentalis)
observed on the trip. Locally it is known as tamarack. The leaves of
many of the specimens seen had already (August 1 7) turned a deep yel-
low and were beginning to fall, for this tree, though a conifer, is annu-
ally deciduous.
After a day and a night spent on the Metolius, we returned through
Sisters and our route now took us to Bend, where we went into camp
on the banks of the Deschutes. As we left Sisters the yellow pine dis-
appeared and scattering junipers — Western juniper (Juniperus occi-
dentalis) — dotted the landscape, seeming to delight in a soil that was
little more than lava. Along this route, however, some fine farms were
noted and irrigation ditches appeared to be everywhere. During the
night spent in Bend the temperature fell sharply and we snuggled deep
56 The Jaunt of the Four
in our sleeping bags. It was no surprise the next morning to find that
ice had formed in the water pail. We could not help wondering how our
friends were faring up yonder in Mazama camp. Sad to say, this frost
destroyed many of the gardens in the Bend section.
Bend is the metropolis of the Deschutes country and is a thriving
little city, prettily located, and has two of the largest lumber mills in
the West. They cut yellow pine exclusively, obtained from the great
belt of timber extending south from the town. Both above and below
Bend great irrigation projects have been developed, taking their water
from the Deschutes.
The forenoon of August 18 was spent in a visit to the ice cave
eighteen miles southeast of Bend. This cave is not large, perhaps sixty
feet long, thirty wide and fifteen high, and the floor of the cave a hun-
dred feet below the earth's surface. The interesting thing about this
and similar caves found elsewhere in the lava regions of the Pacific
states is, that the ice remains through the hottest seasons and seems
to renew itself, even in mid-summer, when portions have been removed.
On this side jaunt we had our first accident, fracturing the* crank case
of our auto in fording an irrigation ditch. The repairs in Bend delayed
us only a few hours, however, and by nightfall we were in camp amid
the pines sixteen miles south of Bend. The sharp staccato of a coyote
echoed through the forest as we dropped off into slumber and this also
was our matin call.
Planning an early start, the "Hup" went on a strike and refused
to budge. It was probably frozen up, for the night was even colder
than the one spent in Bend. Oregon jays, perched on limbs nearby,
guyed us as Sholes and the writer tinkered at the auto. As we were
about to despair, the engine finally relented and again we were off.
We were now bound for Paulina mountain, which, as Prexy Riley
would say, was to be the piece-de-resistance in our feast of sight-seeing
on this portion of the trip, with perhaps a day to be spent in fishing on
the upper reaches of the Deschutes. The substantial was first to be
partaken of, as is proper in any well ordered meal, but we missed the
turn off road to Paulina and brought up in LaPine, thirty-three miles
south of Bend. We were now only eight miles from Pringle Falls, a
point on the main branch of the Deschutes held in high esteem by the dis-
ciples of Izaak Walton. So we decided to reverse the order of our scenic
repast and first have the dessert. A slight indisposition on the part
of Glisan, causing him to feel like delaying the strenuous pull up to
Paulina, coupled with a little diplomatic maneuvering on the part of
the writer, influenced to this decision. Hence, to Pringle Falls we went.
Here, as along the whole route from Bend, we were in the forest, yel-
The Jaunt of the Four 57
low pine for the most part but occasional stretches where the lodgepole
pine prevailed. The fishing was a little disappointing, as the season
was too late for the best results on the Deschutes, though Glisan be-
came the proud possessor of a seven-pound Dolly Varden. Just how
this prize came into his possession is another story and one we will
leave to him to relate.
After spending one night at Pringle Falls and the whole party now
feeling fit as fiddles, we started for Paulina lakes and mountains. Re-
turning through LaPine and reaching it at noon, we varied our camp
fare by partaking of a splendid home-cooked luncheon at a modest res-
taurant kept by a good housewife. Then the climb up to Paulina began,
following a route over which we were directed at LaPine. The road
was narrow, just a way cut through the pines, but the grade, while
very steep, was generally even, and Sholes negotiated the sharp turns
with the hand of a master. Finding that our gasoline was getting low,
we stopped just short of the lakes and pitched camp on the brink of the
canyon above Paulina creek, two hours out of LaPine.
A book might be written of Paulina, of the mountain proper and
the view from its summit, of its lakes, hot springs, flora and peculiar
geologic formations. For though hitherto little advertised, it is properly
a rival, among the scenic wonders of Oregon, of Mt. Mazama and Crater
lake. Only a few of its prominent features can here be considered.
Paulina mountains lie about thirty miles southeast of Bend. They
are a part of no chain or system but stand out alone. The summit
is a huge crater, circular in shape, some six miles in diameter from rim
to rim and hence nearly twenty miles in circumference — almost equal
in area to the crater of Mt. Mazama or Crater lake. The rim rises from
one thousand to two thousand feet above the floor of the crater. Un-
like the rim of Crater lake, however, it has been broken away for an
interval on the west and its inner as well as outer slopes are generally
clothed with timber. The highest point on the rim, which has been
named Paulina Peak, is on the south and has an elevation of 8,475 feet.
It is used by the Forest Service as a fire observation station, and a cabin
has been provided for the observer. Extending down into the crater
from Paulina Peak is a well defined lava stream, especially interest-
ing from the fact that Professor Russell, of the U. S. Geological Survey,
pronounces it the most recent lava flow in the United States. Within
this lava stream is a dike of obsidian, much resembling the obsidian at
the base of the Middle Sister, where the Mazamas were encamped.
On the floor of the crater are two beautiful lakes, both of great
depth. The name Paulina lake has been given to one and East lake
to the other. They vary little in size and each is approximately two
58 The Jaunt of the Four
miles in diameter at its widest point. They are a short distance apart,
but are not connected, at least not by any surface flow. Paulina creek
is the outlet of the former and plunges over a splendid fall just below
the lake. It flows westerly into the East Fork of the Deschutes between
Bend and LaPine. Four years ago both of these lakes were stocked
with steel-head trout. They have appeared to thrive and already have
attained a weight, some of them, of as much as fifteen pounds.
Our party spent two days at Paulina. The first morning we were
there, we climbed Paulina Peak to obtain the view, which had been
described to us in glowing terms. We were not disappointed. All of
central Oregon lay at our feet. To the north, east, and south extended
the high, treeless plateau of this section of the state. Silver lake could
be seen and Steens Mountains showed in the distance. Looking west-
ward, the Cascades stretched out through three great states — Shasta,
McLoughlin or Pitt, Mazama (with its crater plainly visible, though
the surface of Crater lake was hidden), Scott, Thielsen, Diamond Peak,
Maiden Peak, Bachelor Butte, Broken Top, The Three Sisters, Washing-
ton, Three Fingered Jack, Jefferson, Hood and Adams, seventeen snow
peaks, all clear-cut on the horizon. Fred Childers, the ranger, was all
hospitality, and full of information. Also, during the few hours that
we were his guests, he noted and reported by phone to the central sta-
tion two different forest fires, which goes to show the great utility of
maintaining such observation stations.
In the afternoon Glisan and the writer tried trolling on the lakes,
but the trout were sluggish from spawning and refused to be lured.
Despairing of success, Glisan returned to camp while the writer de-
cided to investigate the creek below the falls. Zip! Bing! Almost at
the first cast a fourteen inch rainbow rose to the fly and was duly landed.
Three more beauties furnished trout enough for supper. The angler's
mania now possessed him, and the next forenoon, while the others were
paying a visit to the hot springs at East lake, he determined to drink
deep of the joys of this, the most completely soul-absorbing of all out-
door sports. The conditions were ideal — a cold, clear stream, not too
small or too large, descending in a succession of pools and rapids, its
banks free from undergrowth, and, as he knew, the fish were there.
Temptation, as it is, to tell how this big one was landed and that one
lost (the largest, of course), he will refrain and be content in saying that
twenty-two fine fat rainbows were the product of the half-day's sport.
Amid the distraction of his quest for trout the writer was able to
note some beautiful specimens of White fir (Abies concolor) growing
on the banks of Paulina creek. Gorman had already discovered one
other specimen, which was the first that any of us had ever seen. This
The Jaunt of the Four 59
is a very different tree from the White fir of the lowlands, (Abies grandis)
or Grand fir. The bark of the former is deeply furrowed and in this
respect its trunk bears a resemblance to Douglas fir.
The period of our outing had now almost reached its limit and like-
wise has the space allotted for its recital. After a trout feast such as
Lucullus might have envied, reluctantly we started on our homeward
way. Bend was reached by nightfall and camp pitched under the juni-
pers by the Deschutes, where we had bivouacked before.
Resuming our journey the next morning, we followed down the
Deschutes, crossing the river twice, and passing, during the day,
through the towns of Redmond, Culver, Metolius and Madras. From
Redmond north the country is open and for the most part rolling, with
little natural growth except sagebrush and juniper. Mt. Jefferson is
the most conspicuous object in the landscape and is an impressive sight
as viewed from almost any point along this route. There is some fine
farm land in this section, notably about Redmond, Culver, and on
what is known as "the plains," lying northwest of Madras. In some
places irrigation is resorted to, but dry farming is more common. The
farmers were busy harvesting and the crops appeared to be good.
This country impressed us visitors from the Webfoot section as
having one serious drawback. Water can be obtained in many places
only by boring to great depths or by hauling from considerable distances.
In the beautiful plains section, level as a floor and checker-boarded with
roads at each mile interval, a long barrel-shaped water tank set on
wheels was noted in almost every farm yard. It struck us that to remedy
this situation, a pipe line system might be brought down from a point
farther up the Deschutes.
We were now making for the Mecca crossing of the Deschutes and,
as we stopped to inquire the way, the famous Mecca grade would be
referred to in awesome tones. We could well understand this feeling
as we approached the head of the grade and gazed down into the fright-
ful canyon of the Deschutes. There was the river, a full eleven hundred
feet below us, and it looked as though we might throw a stone into its
current. Three miles of descent with careful driving placed us safely
at the foot of the grade and we went into camp at Mecca, just opposite
the Warm Springs Indian Reservation. Numerous Indians were gath-
ered about the store which, with the railroad station and warehouse,
constitutes the sole enterprise of the place. The river here, augmented
by Crooked river and the Metolius, is a swift and powerful stream. The
fishing was tried but with slight success. The stratification in the sides
of the canyon is of decided interest. One is indeed lacking in imagina-
tion who cannot picture the successive and mighty changes of nature
60 The Jaunt of the Four
that served to pile up the stratum upon stratum of lava, silt and other
formations exposed in the walls of this wonderful canyon, through
which the river has gradually worn its way.
We were now on the last leg of our homeward journey. A day spent
in the hard and tortuous climb up through the reservation and on up
the slope of the Cascades, a night which we hoped to spend at Govern-
ment Camp just south of Mt. Hood, a quick descent on the west side,
and our outing would be but a memory. As was the plan so was the
execution, with little of incident to be recorded. Our impression of the
reservation was, that it may have been well selected as an abode for
the Indians from the standpoint of fish and game but poorly chosen
when agriculture is considered. Two coyotes trotted away from our
approach as we passed through the reservation. Glisan sought to bag
them with his little "game getter," but his prowess was no match for
their cunning. By noon we had crossed the reservation and come to the
little town of Wapinitia, set on a high open table land of varying fertility.
The afternoon's pull up to Government Camp was full of botanic
interest, as well as being a tax on the nerves of Sholes, for the road is
far from good. Here on this easterly slope of the Cascades, leading
up to one of the lowest passes crossing the divide, are assembled nearly
all the species of coniferous trees to be found in Oregon. It seems that
the low elevation of the pass (only 3,880 feet) has enabled most of the
species peculiar to the humid western slope to cross over and neighbor
with their cousins of the more arid belt. In addition to all of the vari-
ous species already mentioned we noted the Engelmann spruce (Picea
engelmanni) and Alaska cedar (Chamaecyparis nootkatensis) .
After a pleasant night spent at Government Camp, where old
Mount Hood looked down upon us, where the grandparents of one of
our party had camped many years before in their toilsome ox-team
journey across the plains, and where Glisan rounded out his set of
almost eighty views taken on the trip, we descended the westerly slope
and were home. We had covered 704 miles by auto, and had completed
one of the most varied and interesting circuits to be made in the West.
In making frequent reference to the coniferous trees seen on the
trip, it must not be thought that Oregon does not possess also many
broad-leafed species or is not rich in other flora. It was thought well,
however, not to burden this narrative with mention of too many forms
of botanic life. It was thought, too, that such reference as has been made
would be justified, or at least excused, from the fact that just now the
Educational Committee of the Club, with the able help of Mr. Gorman,
is conducting a course of study of the coniferous trees. Gorman col-
lected many plants on the trip, which he is now busy classifying.
The Jaunt of the Four 61
Slight reference has been made to the birds and other fauna of the
sections visited. We did not go prepared to hunt, the season was too
late for the best bird study, and besides there was no member of our
party who felt equal to any adequate identification of the various forms
that were seen. In the high mountain regions numerous Oregon jays,
Clarks crows, and magpies were observed and we had the satisfaction
of seeing one specimen of the famed Deschutes raven. Strange as it
may seem, not a single jack-rabbit was noted on the trip.
AAA
Mt. Hood to Mt. Jefferson on Foot
By ALFRED F. PARKER
For months our "Mt. Hood to Mt. Jefferson trip" had been upper-
most in our minds. Whenever any of us happened to meet, conversa-
tion invariably drifted to that subject, and by the time "next summer"
began to be generally known as "this summer," we had thought about
it so much that every detail of our equipment and itinerary had been
figured out to a nicety. How enjoyable it is to look ahead and plan,
secure items of useful information here and there, decide what and what
not to take, and look after all the little details which make for con-
venience and comfort in the wilds !
The "mobilization" was set for Saturday, August 7, 1915, and on
the afternoon of that date, the six of us, amid much hilarity, strapped
our packs on the outside of the auto stage, tumbled in, and headed for
Government Camp, at the south base of Mt. Hood. Our party con-
sisted of Messrs. George H. Young, Arthur D. Platt, John W. Benefiel,
Charles A. Benz, Jamieson Parker, and the writer.
After a dusty but interesting ride across farming country and up
the canyon of the Zigzag, we arrived at our destination at about sun-
set. Here we stopped only for a few moments to adjust our packs, and
admire the beautiful spectacle of the upper slopes and summit of the
mountain illuminated by the crimson rays of the setting sun. We then
pushed on a couple of miles southeasterly to Summit House, where we
pitched our first camp. It was now quite dark, but we had our fire
going in a few minutes, and our broiling beefsteak soon emitted a pleas-
ant aroma in the still night air.
By eight o'clock next morning we were on our way down the road
to the south, and the day being Sunday, we passed numerous automo-
62 Mt. Hood to Mt. Jefferson on Foot
bile parties out for the week-end. At noon we halted at Clear lake,
a small sheet of water which belies its name, where we had a swim and
lunched. A good road brought us a few miles farther on to the Clacka-
mas Meadows ranger station, where the ranger and his wife received
us hospitably. A telephone message for Mr. Platt had been received
there from his home, requesting his immediate return to Portland. He
did not know the reason, but determined to hurry back at once, and
telephoned to Government Camp, asking that an automobile be sent
out to meet him. Insisting on none of us accompanying him, he set
out afoot and alone, and we bade him goodbye with regret. We did not
learn until nearly a week later the tragic cause of his recall — the death of
his sister, by drowning, at Clatsop beach.
We camped that night at a pleasant spot near the ranger station,
and all of us slept soundly, as our first day, although not particularly
hard, had tired us, on account of our being not yet thoroughly broken
in to traveling with packs averaging thirty-five pounds in weight.
The road which we had followed terminates at this point, but an
excellent trail commences; and next morning, after a conference with
the ranger, we proceeded on our way. We traversed dense forest until
nearly noon, when we emerged into a burn and had a fine view of some
of the lower peaks along the range to the south, notably North Pinhead
Peak and Olallie Butte, the latter capped with snow. The trail de-
scended for a mile or two to a little stream, where we made our noonday
halt. We then began a long gradual ascent which brought us to the
summit of the ridge which unites North Pinhead and West Pinhead
peaks. The day was warm, and as the forest at this point had been en-
tirely destroyed by fire, the sun beat down upon us unmercifully. It
seemed as if we never would cease to ascend, but we kept going until
at last we reached the crest of the ridge, where we had a fine view of
Mt. Hood to the north. Then, as we began to descend from the divide,
a shout from the one who happened to be in the lead called our atten-
tion to our first view of Mt. Jefferson. It seemed surprisingly near al-
ready, with its clear-cut outlines illuminated by the late afternoon sun
against a background of deep blue sky. The sight put new life into us,
and we pushed on a few miles further to Lemiti creek, our third camp.
No water was in sight, the creek being practically dry, but we dug a
hole among the boulders in its bed and thus obtained enough for our
limited needs.
We held a conference around the camp-fire that night, and de-
cided that on the following day we would proceed only as far as Olallie
meadows, a distance of about three miles, leave our packs there, and
spend the day on Olallie Butte. This peak rises more than 2,500 feet
Photographs by Charles A. Benz.
Upper — Olallie Butte from Monon lake. Middle — Mt. Jefferson from Olallie lake
Lower — Mt. Jefferson from Olallie Butte.
Photographs by Char'es A. Benz.
Upper — Mt. Jefferson from canyon of Whitewater creek. Middle — Summit of Mt. Jefferson, taken
from an altitude of about 9000 feet. Lower — Mt. Jefferson from Jefferson Park.
Mt. Hood to Mt. Jefferson on Foot 63
above the meadows to a height of 7,243 feet, and we had heard that its
summit afforded one of the finest views in Oregon.
We accordingly tramped the next morning to the meadows, where
we selected a pleasant camping spot and left our packs, taking with us
only what we required for our lunch. We then followed a beautiful
trail up the mountain in a zigzag course at an easy grade, and in a couple
of hours reached the summit.
The view almost beggars description. It is as comprehensive as
the panorama from Hood or Jefferson, but owing to the lower altitude
of the viewpoint, has not that flattened-out appearance so noticeable
from the higher peaks. The sudden sight of Mt. Jefferson, looming up
as it does only a few miles southward, almost took our breath away at
the first glance. It is easily the dominating feature of the landscape,
with the Three Sisters and Broken Top appearing over its shoulder to
the left. Westward the Cascades lay in a great rolling mass as far as
the eye could reach, and northward we could trace the crest of the range
to Hood and Adams, looming up on the horizon. We were so much
closer to the eastern side of the divide that we seemed to look down al-
most perpendicularly upon the wheat fields of the Deschutes valley.
The country between us and Jefferson looked enticingly beautiful, di-
versified as it was with numerous lovely lakes, with rocky shores. Two
of these, Olallie and Monon, were of considerable size.
We spent most of the day on the summit, reveling in the view and
playing in the snow, which still lay in a huge drift on the north side of
the mountain. We also conversed for some time with the ranger who
was stationed there on the lookout for fires. It was with much regret
that we finally descended late in the afternoon, and made our camp for
the night at the place we had chosen in the morning.
The part of the trail which we followed the next day was more
varied in its attractions than any we had yet traversed. It led through
dense forests to Olallie lake, where we halted for some time, admiring
the magnificent sight of Mt. Jefferson, directly across the lake, reflected
perfectly on its still surface. The trail from this point skirted the west
side of Olallie and Monon lakes and then rose abruptly up a steep
slope nearly a thousand feet to Breitenbush lake, a beautiful little tarn
surrounded by a grassy meadow, with groves of trees scattered here and
there, and altogether a most alluring camp-site. Here we had a long
rest and a swim — our first for three days. It was such a restful spot
that we cast many a "longing, lingering look behind" as we left it.
But we had made up our minds to reach Jefferson Park that night; so
about two o'clock we packed up again and resumed our journey. The
trail terminating at this point, we picked our way through the open
64 Mt. Hood to Mt. Jefferson on Foot
forest up a long ridge running north and south, which joins another
ridge running east and west. The woods here were beautiful, with no
underbrush, and with grass and flowers growing profusely underfoot.
As we rose higher and higher, we gradually left almost all vegetation
behind us and struck great snow fields. Our view was very similar to
the one from Olallie Butte the day before. It was interesting to note
the difference in weather between the eastern and western regions of
the state. Over the entire western side of the range and the Willamette
valley hung great masses of dark cloud, while on the eastern side the
sky was blue and the sun shone brightly.
When we finally struck the highest ridge we looked down on the
other side and saw Jefferson Park nestling at our feet. From where we
stood it looked like just what it is — a mountain paradise — so green and
park-like, with its miniature lakes and picturesque little groves. After
resting here for a short time we scrambled down the thousand-foot
divide to the floor of the valley, the beauty and attractiveness of which
came up to our highest expectations. Our camp that night was in an
ideal little nook on the north side of the valley.
A better camping spot than Jefferson Park, or Hanging Valley, as
it is sometimes called, I am sure does not exist. It has all the regular
requirements, in wood, water, grass and trees, and so many little lakes
that each member of a party, be it ever so large, can have his own pri-
vate bathroom. And wherever you go, old Jefferson towers majestically
above you, with its eternal snows stretching downward almost to your
feet.
Next morning we started on our "home stretch," as it were — a
swing around the mountain to Pamelia lake, on the southwest side.
Here we had friends encamped who, we knew, would give us a royal
welcome. We had planned our final camp at this spot, on account of
its accessibility to the mountain, and had shipped in from Detroit a
quantity of supplies which we knew would be awaiting us. One of our
favorite methods of torment had been for two of us to discuss in the
presence of a third all the luxuries of our future commissary, at a time
when we were subsisting for the most part on a diet of rice and bacon.
In going down to the west end of the valley we came across Mr.
Owens and his wife, of Corvallis, who had been camping quite near us,
without either party knowing of the other's proximity. We chatted with
them for awhile, and then proceeded a short distance to the south and
west, scrambling across the canyon of Whitewater creek just below
the snout of its glacier. There was no trail here, and the traveling, with
our packs still heavy enough, was very hard. The thick growth of
underbrush was particularly exasperating, especially when we tried to
Mt. Hood to Mt. Jefferson on Foot 65
hold an even elevation in working our way along the side of a steep
slope. We crossed ridge after ridge, each one of which we thought
would surely be the last. Finally we swung around so far to the south
that we could recognize Three-fingered Jack and Grizzly Flats, and
then we knew that we were nearing our destination. One more long,
hard pull through the densest kind of brush, and a wild leap and slide
down a steep, dusty slope brought us to the waters of Milk creek, from
which it was only a few minute's walk to Pamelia lake. We were
greeted by an enthusiastic reception committee, to whom we gave an
account of our trip, and then the delicacies contained in our fascinating
commissary demanded our attention. By that night we were comfort-
ably settled in our new camp, after five glorious days en route.
Mr. Young was obliged to leave us on the second day after our
arrival ; but the rest of us lingered for over a week after his departure,
loafing about and taking numerous side-trips into the wonderful sur-
rounding country. After climbing without mishap the topmost pin-
nacle of Mt. Jefferson, we broke camp on August 20 and returned to
Portland by way of Detroit and Albany.
Will any of us ever forget the joys of those two short weeks — the
wonderful scenery and healthful exercise, and every evening, at "the
end of a perfect day," that fitting climax — the camp-fire? Sitting under
the glorious stars around our cheerful little blaze, with that indescrib-
able feeling of good-fellowship which always exists among congenial
companions amid such surroundings, who would ever think that he had
a care or trouble on earth? As we remember such experiences, we are
reminded of Service's lines:
'The freshness, the freedom, the farness —
O God! How I 'm stuck on it all! "
Mazamas Among the Canadian Peaks
By W. E. STONE
The Columbia river, flowing northward from its source, reaches a
point some two hundred miles above the international boundary and
then, turning south, calms its turbulent glacial waters in the Arrow
lakes before crossing the line into the United States. Enclosed in this
"Great Bend" is found some of the grandest mountain scenery of the
northwest. Exploration of this vast region has scarcely penetrated
beyond a few miles on each side of the Canadian Pacific Railway until
recent years. In the north the Sir Sandford region has been recently
visited and its wonders made known through the work of Palmer and
his colleagues. In the south the first climbs in what is known as the
Purcell range were made only six years ago and while the more acces-
sible valleys of this region have now been visited, a great part of the
country remains unexplored and scores of first class virgin peaks invite
the mountaineer.
In the summer of 1915 the writer accompanied by Mrs. Stone
visited this country for the first time and with those intrepid climbers,
Mr. and Mrs. A. H. MacCarthy of Wilmer, H. O. Frind of Vancouver,
and that prince of guides, Konrad Kain, penetrated into new regions
and made several first ascents.*
In 1916 after a week in the annual camp of the Alpine Club near
Simpson's pass, we again turned to the Purcells and an expedition was
organized to go to the headwaters of Tobey creek and its tributaries,
comprising one of the important feeders of the upper Columbia. In
this region we expected to connect on the north with the sources of
Horse Thief creek, where our climbs of the previous year had been
made.
With a pack train of thirteen ponies (which proved indeed an ill-
omened number for one unlucky cayuse) in charge of two Shuswap
Indians, and a cook, we set out on July 28th, anticipating a two weeks'
trip. The call of the mountains proved too strong, however, and twenty-
five days had elapsed before we returned to our starting point. During
this time we encountered no human being except of our own party ; we
made ten camps and reached the sources of six streams, traveling up-
wards of one hundred and fifty miles, some of the way over trails and
occasionally cutting our way through the primeval forests. This is a
game country and we frequently saw deer, goats and plentiful signs of
bear. Many high points and several passes were occupied and eight
•Described in the Canadian Alpine Journal and Appalachia for 1916.
Photographs by W. H.. Stone.
Upper left — Unnamed peak east of Jumbo Fork. Upper right — Peak 11,000 feet high east of
Jumbo Fork. Lower left — Ice fall, glacier west of Glacier Peak. Lower right — Black Diamond, [head
of North Fork.
12
^
r 0
Mazamas Among the Canadian Peaks 67
ascents of ten thousand feet or over were made, of which seven were
virgin peaks. With the exception of the loss of one pony which rashly
left the trail on a steep grass slope covered with fresh snow — a most
dangerous combination — the party experienced no mishap, although
about all of the fundamentals of our food supply were exhausted before
we returned to the delectable fruits and vegetables of the ranch.
The trip was full of interesting and exciting experiences and from
the mountaineering standpoint was unusually successful. The ascent
of Mt. Nelson was made from a high camp on Nelson creek where ice
formed over night and a snow squall whistled about our ears. The
climb was without difficulty, at first over a small glacier and then up a
long ridge of rotten rock. On account of its outlying position in the
range Mt. Nelson affords a wonderfully extensive view, particularly
to the eastward over the Columbia valley and the Rockies.
At the head of the north fork of Tobey creek we camped three days
and from the high points in that region renewed acquaintance with all
of the peaks climbed the previous year about the head of the south
fork of Horse Thief creek — Jumbo, Commander, Farnham, St. Peter,
Delphine, Spearhead and Peacock. One day's climb at this station
was memorable. Starting out to traverse a range bounding the west
side of the valley and including three peaks nine to ten thousand feet
in altitude, we found ourselves at 4:30 p. m. on the summit of the farth-
est and highest point. To retrace our route during daylight hours was
impossible while further progress along the ridge was cut off by an im-
passable cliff. The alternative was a descent direct to the valley down
the east rock face of the peak and across an unknown glacier. For five
hours we hung upon that cliff like flies, making the glacier just at dusk.
An hour more in the semi-darkness brought us to the head of a steep
scree and rock slope which disappeared below into impenetrable dark-
ness. Midnight finally brought us into the glow of the welcome camp-
fire after a day of sensational experiences.
A few days later saw us at the head of the south branch of Jumbo
Fork, where we camped long enough to make four ascents and to explore
thoroughly the surrounding region. The outstanding event at this sta-
tion was a back-packing expedition over the divide to the headwaters
of a branch of Glacier creek, beyond which a splendid snow peak had
attracted our attention on numerous climbs during the past two years.
From our bivouac the mountain stood up against the western sky, a
beautiful snow-white mass at the head of a great snow field from which
three glaciers descended to the valley at our feet. Four hours were re-
quired to cross the glacier working our way up a convenient ridge past
a wonderful ice fall on to the snow field, where, just as we arrived, a
68 Mazamas Among the Canadian Peaks
thunder-storm with snow enveloped us. Having taken our bearings as
a precaution, we kept on, although unable to see more than a few feet
ahead, and at the end of an hour the clouds broke and revealed before
us the object of our quest, a tent-shaped peak completely covered with
snow. The ascent was made up a sharp corniced snow ridge at the
north, the barometer indicating a little over eleven thousand feet. Tra-
versing the mountain, we found time to climb a bold rock peak to the
south of over ten thousand feet. Here we encountered another snow
storm with freezing wind and were glad to avail ourselves of a long
glissade down to the snow field and then to retreat to the valley where
heavy packs were waiting to be carried over an eight thousand foot
pass to the base camp.
From another camp at the head of the north branch of Jumbo Fork
we climbed to the snow pass at the north overlooking Star Bird glacier
and Lake Maye with a phalanx of great peaks (Monica, Bruce, Jumbo
and others unnamed) arising on all sides. The first ascent of a fine
pyramidal peak on the east side of the valley, a part of the Jumbo range,
with an altitude of over eleven thousand feet was accomplished.
Finally we reached the head of Tobey creek and Wells pass where
another splendid range of high snow mountains challenged our efforts.
But the uninterrupted spell of fine weather broke and after a steady
storm of two days which left the whole country buried in snow far below
the timber line, we realized that climbing was impossible for a time and
in a three days march covered the distance back to the beautiful Mac-
Carthy ranch.
After more than three weeks on the trail it was a great contrast
to enjoy the comforts of Glacier Hotel in the Selkirks for a few days
and with Mrs. Stone, to make the ascent of Sir Donald by the north-
west arete, regarded as one of the "sportiest" climbs in the Canadian
mountains. Spectacular and interesting it is but not so difficult as
many others, and, having accomplished it as a climax of the season's
efforts, the next day saw us homeward bound.
The Mountain's Boast
By CHARLES H. SHOLES
I lift my peak to the sun, I challenge its fire;
To hurricane's fury and roar I never have bowed.
The terrors of night may appal, I lift my head higher,
And gaze o'er the world more kingly and proud.
Upreared in dim ages, sculptur'd through seasons and years,
I'm monarch of clouds and despoil them with gales;
Rejoice in the flight of the night-blooming spheres,
While thunder below wild storms in the vales.
Implanted am I on the rock-based ribs of earth,
Far down where creation's ceaseless life-throbs jar;
When restive I rumble and roar in my mirth,
Till incense curls upward from peak unto star.
The glory and grandeur of empire are centered in me;
Man's soul I inspire wherever his vision is clear;
Whom my majesty awes from vain-glory is free,
And heroes are born where my pinnacles rear.
Eons of creation are preserved in me,
While man's epitaphs are as tracings on snow,
Dissolved by my breath, o'erwhelmed by the sea,
Vain records outworn by swift waters that flow.
Capitalizing Scenery
Scenic Appreciation by the Nation and by the Individual
By NATHAN A. BOWERS
Jules Martin, a figure prominent in the development of British
Columbia since the days of the Hudson's Bay Company factors, recently
made his first visit to Europe. On his return he was eagerly questioned
as to how he compared the famous Alps with the Canadian Rockies.
His reply was a most indifferent negation. He hadn't even seen any
mountains over there.
"But, surely, you were at Martigny and Tasch — and you saw not
those mountains — ah! those most wonderful mountains?"
"Oh, yes," he said, "now that you speak of it, there was some rising
ground thereabout, but all of it could be put in one of our valleys.
Why, man, there just can't be nothing that could hold a candle to the
Selkirks and the Rockies."
Old Jules was so glad to be home again that he could not be quite
reasonable in making such comparisons. But in his view, absurdity
though it was, there lay a certain note of truth that is destined, in time,
to be native-born as a sentiment in the heart of every true American.
Other countries have known their snowy heights longer than we have
known ours and they have surpassed us in the appreciation of the moun-
tains. Indeed, their loyalty has attained world-wide fame. But we
have, in our own right, mountain ranges that inspire a love and a loyalty
second to none on earth and the spirit here and in Canada should be —
will be — such that we shall not take second place in the appreciation of
our "woods and templed hills." This will come to be true of our nation
as a people because we are awakening to the possibilities that have
heretofore remained unknown and undeveloped.
The evidence in federal policy is the opening up and exploiting of
national parks ; with individuals it is the rate at which love of the out-
doors and action afield are taking precedence over passive pleasures and
pastimes indoors. Always there has been more of the outdoor spirit
in the west, but with the progress of development America is becoming
more closely knit. There is more of the west in the east and more of
the east in the west than ever before.
The National Aspect
Our national parks, having always been directly under the juris-
diction of Congress, have long been looked upon as a liability and treated
almost as an evil incidental to national affairs. Such appropriations as
have been allotted to them were spent without explanation of the return
Capitalizing Scenery 71
on the investment and there was a popular feeling that it was money
squandered. The parks were inaccessible; there were no accommoda-
tions or transportation facilities and naturally enough their attractions
were unknown. The appropriations for parks were too often in pro-
portion to the influence of those who represented the district — or,
rather, of those who represented the voting power of the district.
Then a keen-minded economist pointed out that Swiss scenery had
been so advertised that it attracted tourist trade amounting to $250,-
000,000 annually. About the same time the general passenger agent
of one of our large railway systems estimated that the sum of $500,-
000,000 was annually spent abroad by American tourists.
There were a few Americans who knew that our scenery is not in-
inferior to that found in Europe. They knew that with proper devel-
opment and advertisement the natural attractions of our parks could
be made to divert much of this overseas tourist tide into our western
states. So the slogan, "See America First," went forth and earnest
nature lovers urged a sane policy of handling national park affairs.
This movement met with prompt response. Last year Mr. Lane,
Secretary of the Interior, appointed a General Superintendent of Na-
tional Parks and told him to "do things." This man took hold in
earnest. He estimated that within a very few years an annual total of
at least $50,000,000 could be saved to this country if the parks were
properly opened up and adequately advertised. It was pointed out that
the expenditures for such development would be good business ventures
because the funds would be used chiefly for substantial improvements,
such as roads, bridges, trails and chalets. Also concessions could be
granted which would, under government supervision, be at least self-
supporting. So the policy was accepted as good, and the national
parks suddenly ceased to be liabilities and became assets.
Under the new policy, roads and trails are being built that will make
the points of interest accessible, and an entirely new plan of operating
concessions within the parks is being inaugurated. Heretofore a hotel
keeper, for example, could get only a short term lease and on this basis
of course he could not afford to spend much on improvements. Now
lessees are to be given long term contracts and will be required to con-
struct only such chalets and hotels as shall be designed in accordance
with the general plans of the Superintendent of National Parks. These
permits are to be issued for a twenty-year term at the end of which time
the chalets will become the property of the government. Meantime
the concessionaires are to pay the government fifty per cent of their
net revenues. The books are to be at all times open to government
inspectors to insure fair play.
72
Capital zing Scenery
An important feature of this scheme is that the lessee becomes vir-
tually a co-partner with the government. When financial or operating
difficulties arise it will be mutually desirable for lessee and government
agent to study the matter together and co-operate in finding some so-
lution. This plan eliminates at the outset the source of trouble with
lessee which is now most common, and at the same time it places at the
service of each, through the government agents, the benefits of experi-
ence at every other concession in the park system. This will not only
make for economy and profit, but will insure the visitor the very best
service feasible and an opportunity to see more of the park than would
be possible with a less efficient arrangement.
National Parks of the United States
Name
Location
Area in
Square
Miles
Roads and
Trails
Hotel
Accommodat'ns
Sequoia Park
California ....
2 525
General Grant Park ....
California ....
40
Several hotels
Yosemite Park
California. . . .
1,124
75 miles r'ds .
Crater Lake Park
Oregon . .
159360
700 mi. trails
For 3 ,500 guests
Mt. Rainier Park
Glacier Park
Washington . .
Montana ....
324
1 400
34 mi. roads
Several hotels
Yellowstone Park
Wyoming ....
33 480
Sufficient r'ds
72 hotels
Mesa Verde Park ....
Colorado
640
and trails
Hot Springs Reservat'n .
Arkansas ....
14
Sufficient
Platt Park
Oklahoma
47
Wind Cave Park
South Dakota
312
Rocky Mountain
Colorado
358
Several hotels
The first construction work was undertaken in Yosemite Valley in
California. The first chalet, a $150,000 structure, is now nearing com-
pletion on the floor of the valley and a smaller hotel is under way up
on the heights at Glacier Point. Other mountain inns are to be built
in this park at the rate of three each year until the chain of twenty-three
is complete. About seventy-five miles of road will be constructed to
bring the park up to the standard of accessibility.
The success of the first step in California is being watched closely
so that later construction may profit by the first venture on the new
basis. Several inns and about seventy-five miles of road will be required
in Mt. Rainier Park, while Glacier Park requires forty-three inns and
sixty miles of road. If success attends the present plan to extend
Sequoia Park so as to include Mt. Whitney and the Kings River canyon,
this enlarged area will be allotted forty-seven inns and an extensive
road system.
Thus elaborate plans have been developed and the first work to be
Capitalizing Scenery 73
carried out according to the new scheme is now well under way. It is
very desirable that this program so well laid out should have the sup-
port of the next Congress. Each of us can help by evincing interest and
helping to advertise the parks. If there is a popular demand there is
no doubt that full development will follow.
The Viewpoint of the Individual
So much for the change in our attitude as a nation. As for the in-
dividual each is "a law unto himself" for rarely are two personalities
in perfect agreement on temperamental matters. However, even in
our interpretation of Nature's message there are some fundamentals
which must be common ground — among Mazamas surely there is much
more than a few fundamentals that will be found in common.
But to get directly at the heart of the matter, do we fully improve
our opportunities; do we make the most of our association with the
snow peaks and the forest silences ? Are we not apt to accept the healthy
exercise and the sport of outdoor life as representing practically all the
value of our trips, regarding as rare occasions, or "soul feasts" those
times when we really sense a message or even a meaning in Nature's
revelations ?
In the rut and habit of daily routine most men lose their perspec-
tive; because of too close scrutiny we fail to grasp the general scheme
of the picture. To be truly broad minded we must get out of ourselves,
as it were, and analyze conditions from an impersonal viewpoint. The
minds of great men are said to be able to do this frequently, but most
of us need some help in getting a new angle of things. Oftimes this
comes to us. For example, we renew acquaintance with an old friend,
find him full of ambition and fairly bubbling over with enthusiasm, and
we say the meeting with him was "refreshing. ' In reality it was that
he brought us a new viewpoint, and the reaction upon our minds was a
stimulation.
In defining "inspiration" Webster speaks of a "stimulating in-
fluence upon the intellect" and he associates this with "high artistic
achievement." If our minds are capable of receiving beneficial influence
of this sort let us not leave the matter wholly to chance occurrences.
Rather let us go over it most thoughtfully and in seeking our inspiration
aim at the highest sources. Truly in this sense we may hitch our wagon
to a star. We find a certain mental stimulus in contact with humankind,
but this is not the highest Occasionally, in the quiet contemplation
of some phenomenon of Nature, we sense the broadening uplift of a
glimpse of the divine. This is at once our invitation and our oppor-
tunity. We should be quick to realize that it is well worth while for
74 Capitalizing Scenery
us to study and cultivate, each according to his tendency and his ca-
pacity, the conditions that make for such glimpses. We need clearer
vision — a view often enough so that it becomes an influence on char-
acter.
Our study and progress along this line is dependent altogether
upon our method of thought. It is something wholly within ourselves.
It is not easy to discuss it freely, and in fact so far as interchange of
experience is concerned there is not a great deal to be gained thereby.
Companionship is an essential to our greatest development because of
the opportunities it affords — and it gives us much pleasure and comfort
beside — but we cannot leave even to those nearest to us any share of
the thinking that determines individuality. We do our really deep
thinking alone. Alone we win and lose our greatest struggles. One of
the foremost mentalists of the age has even written, "I am not alone
if I read or if I write." At these times, he reasons, he is listening to or
speaking to his friends. He goes on to say "but if one would be alone,
let him look at the stars." It is out in the silent places that one may
hear the most and there he may come to know himself best.
It is this one feature, the fact that it is a strictly personal experience,
that has reduced almost to a myth the inspirational element of life in
the lands that remain as God made them. Scorned and scoffed at by
those of us who do not sense it, those of us who think we do cherish it
secretly, without a clear understanding of whence it comes or how.
So often we hear it said of some wondrous scene, "No use trying to
describe that to those who haven't seen it and those who have need no
description." It is largely so in reducing to words impressions of the
inspirational uplift that comes from our trips in the open.
But at least we can start with those fundamentals common to
many of us. On this basis we may even discuss ways and means that
may help in our searching for the truth. Two essentials there are: one
who looks outward and upward for that "stimulating effect on the intel-
lect," to begin with, must be "friendly" with himself and he must be
honest with himself. Next comes the attitude or frame of mind. Gauge
this by two units of measurement — first, time, or rate of thought, and
second, degree, or extent of familiarity with that about which the
thought centers. The thought that shapes itself slowly, analytically,
is the thought of the listener; it is in accord with the "passive" or recep-
tive mind. Then, of course, one can see farther and hear more if he
draws upon a larger store of knowledge and experience.
To illustrate the time and degree elements, I cite first the tourist
sated with travel, who led his party through a famous art gallery almost
on a run and, Baedeker in hand, looked back as they neared the exit
Capitalizing Scenery 75
to call out encouragingly, "Fine, we did that last mile in nine minutes."
His haste excluded Rembrandt and Angelo. Again, John Muir's
intimate friend has said that while others heard the music of the wind
in the pines, Muir heard a song whose words swayed his mood and
awakened a response within him. John Muir knew the woods.
Not much has been published that deals at all specifically with
ways and means whereby the individual may capitalize scenery. Per-
haps it is better so because each can best work out his own interpreta-
tion. So if the foregoing comment serves to encourage the reader in
further thought on the subject on his own account it shall have achieved
its highest aim — unless it may, perchance, lead to a more able discus-
sion of the matter in a later issue of "Mazama."
Although specific comment is not common, some beautiful thoughts
have been expressed in more general terms. Among these is the "Creed"
of Walter J. Sears, in which he urges mankind "To seek in Nature the
meaning of the infinite truth ; to understand that the laws of growth are
the laws of God; to believe that the melody of birds, the laughter of
children, the unmeasured sacrifice of motherhood, and the ceaseless
yearning of all men for a wider outlook and a nobler existence are pro-
phetic of the perfect joy and love and life of another world; and so
believing to find rest as in the shadow of a great rock against all the
storms that beset us; to look out upon the silence of the starlit nights,
the peace of autumn days and the solemnity of the boundless seas and
feel the regnant spirit of hope, that, soothing the hurt of grief, healing
the wound of wrong and calming the fever of doubt, fills the soul with
the faith that transforms the shadows of earth into the spl endors o
Heaven."
They beckon from their sunset domes afar,
Light's royal priesthood, the eternal hills:
Though born of earth, robed of the sky they are;
And the anointing radiance heaven distills
On their high brows, the air with glory fills.
— Lucy Larcom.
Hunting the American Chamois
Without a Gun
By WALTER PRI CHARD EATON
No guns are allowed in Glacier National Park, which was once the
great hunting ground of the Blackfeet Indians, and later a part of their
reservation. Although the park is but half a dozen years old, already
the bighorns and the goats are coming back. The winter brings them
down the slopes, and Walter Gibbs, the ranger at Many Glacier, took a
photograph of a flock of 134 sheep close to the chalets last April. (It
is still winter in April in the northern Rockies.) As the snow melts and
the verdure begins to reappear on the slopes, they retire farther and
farther up, till by tourist time you have generally to watch them with
field glasses if you wish any view more intimate than that of a fly crawl-
ing on the forty-ninth story of the Woolworth tower.
By climbing yourself, however, you may sometimes get a closer
view, and ultimately you can reach the ledges where the goats travel
and actually find their trails — well-beaten little paths that lead over the
spines of the Divide or zigzag down dizzy ledges. There is something
endlessly fascinating in watching the big white Rocky mountain goats
(which are really a kind of antelope, we are told) feeding on the side of
a 3,000-foot precipice, which looks from the base absolutely unclimb-
able. The other day we sat on the shore of Iceberg lake (or on the edge
of the snow field under which we were assured the lake lay) and watched
a herd of twenty goats nearly at the top of Castle Ridge, a vast rock
cliff which rings Iceberg lake like a Titanic stadium. The goats were tiny
white specks at first, and only to be detected when in motion. Gradually,
however, they worked down the face of the cliff, one behind the other,
and a prospective climber could have mapped out his route by follow-
ing their trail. They worked down to a big snow patch which rested on
the top of the steep debris slide of shale — a characteristic of all Rocky
Mountain cliffs in this region — and at that point they were near enough
to us that we could distinguish the kids. There were three or four kids
in the herd, which gambolled and frisked out on the snow exactly like
small boys. When the herd started up, a goat chased the kids back into
line, and the procession reclimbed the rock wall, by exactly the path
they had taken down. We watched carefully to see, and we were able
to predict, from the descent, the exact points at which they would make
their switchback turnings.
But from the bottom of the cliff it was impossible to see what they
could find to eat on those bare, forbidding precipices of stone, to
Hunting the American Chamois Without a Gun 77
which not even a stunted tree could cling. The only way to find out
was either to climb a cliff ourselves, or else reach some summit and look
over. We elected the latter method as less likely to cause bereavement
in our families.
The easiest way to reach a summit in Glacier Park is to go up to
the top of one of the passes, by horseback, and then follow up the shoul-
der to right or left. For the most part, the Continental Divide in the
Park is a knife blade ridge of shale stone, from 8,000 to 9,000 feet high,
with peaks that are almost rock chimneys on this blade. The passes
go over at points where the blade is lowest and widest, reaching it by
climbing the side of one of the numerous peninsulas which thrust out
to the east. An ascent of one of these passes in July — July of 1916, at any
rate — is a seven or eight-mile trip out of midsummer into early spring,
with each stage of the season proclaimed by marvelous gardens of wild
flowers.
As we were working up a ravine toward a pass yesterday, for in-
stance, through dense forest at times where the trail was a path of black
mud in the leaf mould, at times through open glades beside a tumbling
green stream, we saw goldenrod on one side of the trail, flanked by pip-
sissewa and self-heal, while directly opposite was a twenty-foot square
bed of deep blue annual larkspur, larger and richer in color than any
we can grow from "store" seed in our own Massachusetts garden. Down
in the hollow the stately blooms of the Indian basket grass, or bear
grass, as it is variously called, were fading. But beside the tiny brooks
which crossed the trail were masses of monkey flower, a striking plant
about sixteen inches high with deep red blossoms like small petunias. It
ought to live, one would suppose, in New England, at least in the hills,
and would be an addition to any waterside garden. There were also
pretty borders of the aster-like flea-bane and beds of vetch and others
of bunchberry blossoms, like little dogwood blossoms on the ground.
But the prettiest of the wood flowers were the little pink bells of the
twin flowers.
Presently our attention was diverted from the flora to the fauna
by the sight of a fresh beaver dam close to the trail, in a rich meadow
bottom fringed with willow between the great fortress walls of the can-
yon. The beavers had raised the level of water nearly two feet, with
a dam at least sixty feet long, and the flooded ridge above was full of
their canals. But, unfortunately, no beavers were in sight.
As we began to climb, the earlier flowers appeared in greater and
greater abundance. In one little hollow, a dozen feet wide and not over
thirty long, we counted eighteen varieties while sitting in the saddle.
There were, among them, pink spirea, tall blue false forget-me-nots,
78 Hunting the American Chamois Without a Gun
beautiful bushes of golden shrubby cinquefoil (the curse of the Berk-
shire farmers, who call it hardback), lavender wild onion, several stately
clumps of yellow long-spurred columbine, much wild valerian, larkspur,
paint-brush and head after head of the bear, or basket grass.
This peculiar grass, which grows in clumps and is so coarse and
sharp the horses will not touch it, bears the most conspicuous flower in
the Rocky Mountains. It sends up a fleshy stalk half an inch in diameter
and from two to four feet tall. This stalk, in turn, bears a raceme of
cream-white blossoms which is often a foot from base to crown, and so
thickly clustered that it looks from a distance like a great white Bart-
lett pear, wrong end up, on a stick. The red hot poker plant is the near-
est analogy in our gardens, but it lacks the delicacy of individual blos-
som in the cluster, and the peculiar shape. These bear grass blossoms
are everywhere in the upland meadows, growing even in among the
stunted spruces or under the trees. They wave their white plumes in
the wind against the background of the firs like little forest armies on
the march.
We ate lunch surrounded by a score at least of fat ground squirrels
which became almost as tame as gray squirrels on the Common, and
ate out of our hands. They are about the size of a gray squirrel, rufous
and greenish-gray in color, and they are omnipresent in the northern
Rockies. They sit up on their haunches and look at you, like prairie
dogs, press their front paws against their stomachs, and with each pres-
sure emit a peculiar, bird-like peeping squeal — exactly as if they were
mechanical toys, with a noise-maker in the middle.
At the top of the pass we left the horses and began the ascent of
the shoulder, toward a peak of piled boulders not unlike the summit
cone of Washington, though much less of a dome, and about 9,000 feet
high. It wasn't a long climb, but almost every foot of the way was a
revelation of tiny alpine gardens in among the rock crannies. Of these
small alpine plants the most beautiful was easily the purple saussurea
(or so we judged it), but running it a close second was the moss cam-
pion— its little masses of pink flowers on their velvet green mat adorning
both the crannies and the tops of the rocks. The true forget-me-nots,
a true, pure blue, persisted a long way up, and sometimes we found
shrubby cinquefoil dwarfed to a few inches in height, exactly as a spruce
is dwarfed to a ground shrub. The blossoms, however, remained their
full size. The beautiful pink heather also reached altitudes far above
timber. Grass persisted in the crannies at the very top, and in the grass
several varieties of tiny alpine plants.
Almost to the summit, too, we found the whistling marmots, big
fat fellows, looking much like their eastern cousins, the woodchucks, in
Hunting the American Chamois Without a Gun 79
all but color. Their front quarters are almost cream color. These
mountain fellows were very tame, letting us get near enough to photo-
graph them, and, after we had passed on, coming out again on the same
rock and resuming their sun baths.
On the top of the Divide, from the chimney we ascended, we could
see plainly a game trail running along for two miles. On one side the
precipice dropped down abruptly more than a thousand feet. On the
other side, in the northern hollow of the curve described by the ridge,
was a high glacier, mostly snow covered, with the snow coming up in
places to the very ridge itself. The ridge was perhaps thirty feet wide,
and the game trail ran right along the middle of it. At the farther end
is ascended a considerable summit, and was dispersed in many very
faint trails which led out and down upon the lower ledges. Looking
over the ledge anywhere you could see a dozen possible ways down, even
for a man, and you could see that the ledges were much wider than they
appeared from below, many of them bearing little hidden gardens of
alpine plants, moss and grasses — poor enough picking for a horse, but
evidently sufficient for the goats. Goat signs were frequent, and even
up here, at the top, was plentiful evidence of the sheep. From our perch
we saw two goats rounding a ledge a mile or so away, and a lone sheep
outlined on a snow field far below us. We also saw two of the chief foes
of the goats — the bald-headed eagles. (The golden eagle is equally a
foe.) Our guide told us he had found eagle's nests surrounded by the
carcasses of kids and lambs, and affirmed that the eagles pierce the body
and eat out nothing but the lungs.
We had a rope along, and at a favorable spot went far out on the
steep glacier, which was poised on its high shelf far above the canyon
below. It was still covered with snow, however, and only at the ex-
treme lower edge had begun to develop any crevasses, so that it was no
more interesting than a mere snowfield. We finally descended to the
pass by a shale slide, which is the quickest way, but calls for cast iron
boots. Any climbing in the Rockies, in fact, calls for cast iron boots.
Not only should big hob nails invariably be worn, but the soles of the
boots should be twice again as thick as you think they ought to be. Only
thus can you walk in comfort over the omnipresent sharp shale stone.
As we dropped into camp in one of those beautiful upland meadows
which are characteristic of the lower end of the green lakes in the glacial
cirques at the head of the Rocky Mountain canyons, the shadows were
filling the bottom of the vast rock amphitheatre, while the peaks stood
up in full sunlight, their snowfields glistening, their strata upon strata
of vari-colored ledges making a pattern of rich warm color. Two large
Clarke nutcrackers (a handsome black and white bird characteristic
80 Hunting the American Chamois Without a Gun
of the high Rockies) were calling in crow-like tones, and in the firs behind
our tent a hermit thrush was singing, but with less clarion timbre than
in Franconia. The daylight lasted on the peaks long after the canyon
meadow was in shadow, the upper ledges and snowfields and glaciers
growing more and more ethereal. Finally the light faded from them,
too, and the western sky alone held light, against which the ragged Di-
vide stood up in silhouette like a stage set by Urban or Gordon Craig.
The world grew still. Only a porcupine rustled near camp, and a coyote
barked in the distance.
Perhaps it is only fair to add that in the morning we found that the
porcupine had eaten the entire sleeve out of a sweater and consumed
the better part of two stout rope halters. But he never will eat anything
else. The Government cannot forbid clubs in the park. — From the
"Boston Transcript"
Partner, remember the hills?
Those snow-crowned battlements of hills
We loved of old.
They stood so calm, inscrutable and cold,
Somehow it never seemed they cared at all
For you or me, our fortune or our fall,
And yet we felt their thrall;
And ever and forever to the end
We shall not cease, my friend,
To hear their call.
— Berton Braley.
Eagle falls. Glacier National Park.
Photographs by Charles A. Bern.
Upper left— Unnamed falls on Greenleaf creek. Upper right— Twahalaski falls. Upper Mult-
nomah creek Lower left— Wahclella falls. Tanner creek. Lower right— Unnamed falls on stream
east of Lindsey creek.
The Lesser Waterfalls Along
the Columbia
By H. H. RIDDELL
The features of natural scenery along the course of the Columbia
river from Portland to the east through the Cascade range, are so many
and varied in form and contour, that but few have become well known to
the public. The bold escarpments that overhang the river, and the
peaks that rise along the rim of the canyon are known to all who have
traveled along the river, as are the major waterfalls. Multnomah,
Latourell and Horsetail falls are familiar to all wherever the Columbia
is known. It is but few, however, that know of the many lesser falls
and cataracts that cascade down the rocky beds of the many creeks
and streams flowing from the highlands on the north and south to a
confluence with the Columbia. These are mostly tucked away out
of sight from the river and from roads and trails and in places where
climbing and hard walking are necessary to find them.
Perhaps thirty or more beautiful waterfalls, each possessing a
beauty all its own, are situated within easy walking distance of the
banks of the river.
The clear overleap of Latourell falls calls for no description. It
is the first of the waterfalls to be seen as one journeys up the river.
The cliffs of basalt that form the southern wall of the Columbia gorge
are extremely hard and difficult of erosion. Latourell creek has been
unable to eat its way into the mountain side, and the fall is clean cut
and leaps free from the wall, falling to its basin without obstruction.
Something more than a mile east of Latourell, Young creek
comes dashing down in a tortuous twisted cataract into the depths of
Shepperds Dell. The stream is not large, but the several drops, and
white cascades in which the water plunges down the steep slopes give
one an idea of the many aspects that a stream can assume when rock
walls and gravity have an opportunity to work their will.
Under the highway bridge the fine Bridal Veil falls pours over a
dyke of black basalt in a filmy white ribbon that readily suggests the
name. It is unfortunate that the stream is diverted into flumes so
that the stream bed is often dry.
Just west of Angels Rest a small creek drops over a precipice
forming Coopey falls. It is a pleasing sight, especially when the stream
is flowing bank-full after a storm. A half mile to the east, Dalton
creek comes down from the heights in a succession of abrupt falls,
82 The Lesser Waterfalls Along the Columbia
invisible from the river or road, but well worth the effort necessary to
see them.
Directly above Multnomah Lodge, Mist falls comes in a film of
cloud-like spray from the high cliffs, wasting into a cloud of mist in its
thousand-foot descent, and gathering its waters at the head of the talus
slope to cascade down in a dash of foam to the river level.
It is but a short distance further to the beauteous Wahkeena
that bursts full blown from under a mountain mass to shoot down in
a continuous dazzling fall and cascade for hundreds of feet; the last
mad dash being in sight of the highway, and forming one of the finest
of its sights.
Multnomah is of course the most impressive of all the waterfalls,
its height and volume combining to make it a masterpiece of nature.
Before the construction of the Larch mountain trail but little
thought was given to Multnomah creek above the great fall. It had
been practically inaccessible; but the new trail has made it easy to
visit the upper courses of the stream. Just above the brink of the fall
is a pretty cascade where the waters drop into a basin to gather them-
selves for the great leap into the river canyon. A short way above,
a beautiful cascade is caused by a dyke of black basaltic rock that
crosses the bed of the stream, and just above this the superb Twaha-
laskie fall is a thing of beauty. Other cascades and falls abound along
the course of the stream, all of them unnamed.
A splendid fall of over three hundred feet marks the southern
end of the wonderful Oneonta gorge. Here Oneonta creek makes a
wild plunge into the deep recesses of the gorge, which is so narrow that
the pool into which the water dashes fills the chasm from wall to wall.
This fall is easily visited from the highway, a short walk along the bed
of the gorge bringing one to its foot in a few minutes. Above this fall
are others, not so high but of surpassing beauty, marking the wild course
of the stream from its birthplace on the slopes of Palmer Peak and
Larch mountain.
Horsetail creek, so called from the splendid fall which the stream
makes in its final plunge to the river level, offers a bewildering maze
of cataracts throughout 'its length from Nesmith Point to the high-
way bridge. These are unnamed, mostly unknown; and like the
flowers of Gray's Elegy, their beauty wasted with no human eye to see
or ear to hear, the water comes down in myriad fall and cascade, a
lash of foam from the snow-clad summit of Nesmith to the quiet level
of the Columbia.
$$$> During the winter months a number of waterfalls, fed by the
copious rains that drench the crests and basins along the escarpment
The Lesser Waterfalls Along the Columbia 83
near Cathedral rock and to the east, add a touch of beauty that is
difficult to describe, and which is absent in the summer and autumn.
McCord creek is marked by the superb Elowah fall. This, like La-
tourell, drops sheer from a basalt rim into a basin. The overhang of
the rim is such that one can pass entirely behind the column of de-
scending water, and can find a dry seat amid the saxifrages and wild
asters, from which to view the uplifts of Hamilton mountain through
the mists of the fall as they drop curtain-like in front. McCord creek
from its sources in Latourell Prairie lies in so steep a bed that it is a
continual cascade, lashed into foam by the huge blocks of andesite
over which the creek pours.
A half mile or more back in the mountains from the massive arch
that spans the gorge of Moffett creek, the pretty Wahe fall drops for
almost a hundred feet into a deep chasm that has been eroded into
the mountain. Above this is yet a second fall, down the sheer cliff
of a rock-walled canyon, that is one of the finest of the many cataracts
of this region. It is inaccessible, except to the experienced mountaineer,
as it requires a difficult climb along the steep sides of the canyon wall.
Wahclella falls marks the upstream limit of the trout in Tanner
creek. Here the stream has eroded its way deep into the mountain-
side. This fall and its companion cataracts are easily visited by a trail
up the creek from Bonne ville. It was named by a Mazama committee
after the tribal name of the village which occupied the site of Bonneville.
On Eagle creek are the Metlako falls, so called from the mythologi-
cal Goddess of Salmon, and above are yet other falls unnamed and
but seldom seen. The rushing torrent of the Eagle from its birthplace
in Wahtum lake on the southern slopes of Chinidere is a succession
of falls, cascades and cataracts.
From Eagle's crystal flood to the twin falls of Gorton creek are no
falls along the river, except a winter cascade on Ruckel creek; but as
one rounds the talus of Shellrock mountain and passes the lower lifts
of the approaches of Mt. Defiance, a beautiful sequence of falls ap-
pears. Along Lindsey creek from the highway crossing are several
falls, and farther to the east six falls of unequaled beauty drop into
their several basins dashing their spray in a misty cloud. These are
without names, save "Starvation." May anathema be the lot of him
who imposed this malphonious and unsuitable name on this beauty
spot of creation.
On the north side of the Columbia are a number of waterfalls as
beautiful in their way as those that have been mentioned. On Rock
creek less than a mile above Stevenson, the stream passes over a ledge
of sedimentary rock, and drops in a broad sheet for almost a hundred
84 The Lesser Waterfalls Along the Columbia
feet. A short distance above is a similar fall of lesser height. These
falls differ from the others in spreading their flow and pouring over the
brink in a broad sheet, and not in a concentrated mass, as do the
streams on the Oregon side.
Greenleaf creek out of its sources in the basin of Table mountain
pours its floods over a rim, the broken fragments of the huge buttresses
of the fabled "Bridge of the Gods," and drops two thousand feet in a quick
succession of beautiful falls and cataracts. This stream, when swollen
by heavy winter rains, presents a wonderful appearance, each fall
a gem of purest ray, clean from the hand of the Master Artisan.
On Cedar creek in a little nook shortly above its confluence with
Hamilton creek is a pretty fall that makes a long drop down a per-
pendicular wall of rock. Seldom seen, this beauty spot but awaits the
time when a trail will be opened to render it more accessible.
Lest a horror similar to "Starvation" be perpetrated it is to be
hoped that the Geographic Boards of Oregon and Washington will
assert an activity that will give to each waterfall, mountain peak,
and natural feature a fit and appropriate name.
With the construction of the roadway along both banks of the
Columbia river and the trails that are being built by the Forest Service
an increasing public interest is being manifested in the beautiful scenery
of our mountains. It is a matter of increasing importance that the
natural features be aptly named. Serious attention has not been
given to this in the past. Inattention has caused a varied nomencla-
ture as incongruous as it is inapt, with its reduplication of such common-
places as "Cedar creek," "Eagle creek," and similar names. An in-
spection of the topographic sheet of the Mount Hood quadrangle where
three "Cedar creeks," three "Bear creeks," and others appear, serves
to illustrate this anomalous condition.
In our regional nomenclature place names of Indian origin are
many. They are of special aptitude in most instances, and particu-
larly to the natural objects about which hover a wealth of traditional
reminiscence and mythical lore. This, it seems, should not be entirely
lost or forgotten. The ancient name "Woutoulat" is preferable to
Rooster rock. The one is redolent of the old time myths, and the re-
ligious symbolism that reaches back to a time anterior to the tradi-
tions, while the other serves no purpose, outside of being a mere name,
the unsuitableness of which invariably calls forth the query, "Why?"
The Beacon rock of Lewis and Clark sits with better grace on the great
andesite monolith than does Castle rock. Multnomah falls, narrowly
escaped being named after the earlier name of the creek and dubbed
"Coon Creek falls."
The Lesser Waterfalls Along the Columbia 85
Mazama activity has been exerted in naming several of the falls,
peaks and creeks along the course of the river. It should be carried
further and fit names given to the many unnamed mountains, water-
falls and creeks in our nearby mountains.
Perhaps the most noticeable change effected by Mazama influence
was the substitution of Wahkeena, for Gordon falls. This singularly
euphonious name came instantly into popular favor, and is now uni-
versally used. The graceful fall that marks the plunge of McCord
creek to the river level was named "Elowah" after an old Indian name
of the place. The falls on Tanner creek also were given the tribal name
of "Wahclella," after the Indians who formerly dwelt amid the groves
on the present site of Bonneville.
For a like reason the local name of "Wane" was given to the falls
on Moffett creek. The turbulent summer rivulet, and fierce winter
torrent which descends in a dash of spray and foam from the steep
slopes of Yeon Peak has been termed "Tumalt creek" in place of
' 'Devils Slide' ' creek. Tumalt was an Indian of the Wahclella tribe who
dwelt on the beach near the mouth of this creek. He rendered material
aid to some of the white settlers in escaping from the savages at the
Cascades massacre in 1856. He was so unfortunate as to return, and
in the heat of the excitement following the defeat of the Indians by
the troops, was executed as a participant in the uprising. The high
rock pinnacles midway between Multnomah falls and Oneonta gorge
have been named "Winema,"a Lutuamian term meaning chieftainess,
and applicable because of a mythical tale in which a maiden rallied
her tribesmen and inflicted defeat on a band of invaders. She fell
in the battle, and Talapus raised the pinnacles where she fell. The
mountain between Tanner and Eagle creeks has been called Wauna
Point, after the legendary bridge which was at one time thought to
have spanned the Columbia at this point. "Wauneka point" is the
appellation given to the mountain between McCord and Moffett creeks.
It means "Place of red sunsets."
In keeping with the general plan of preserving pioneer names
as well as those of Indian origin, the mountain directly south of Warren-
dale on the divide between the Columbia and Bull Run, has been named
Nesmith Point, after Oregon's pioneer senator. The name Deadman's
creek, an inappropriate and grewsome title, has been eliminated, and
the pretty mountain torrent, which in less than four miles descends
some 3,500 feet from the edge of the Benson plateau was renamed
Ruckel creek after J. S. Ruckel, who first settled on the flat at the
creek's mouth, and constructed the portage around the Cascades on
the Oregon side. Shellrock mountain near the sources of Tanner and
86 The Lesser Waterfalls Along the Columbia
McCord creeks was renamed Mt. Talapus after the legendary deity
of the Indians. The summit southwest of Nesmith Point was named
Palmer Peak, after Joel Palmer, who in 1843 was the first known
person to attempt the ascent of Mt. Hood. He succeeded in reaching
Crater rock. The huge mountain mass to the south and east of St.
Peters Dome was named Yeon mountain, in honor of J. B. Yeon,
as an expression of the public appreciation of his work in building the
Columbia river highway.
To the south of Cascade Locks is a massive mountain pile rising
to an altitude of 4,000 feet, and culminating in Benson plateau, which
has never received a name. It is suggested that it be called Wallala
mountain. It is the aboriginal name for the village that in former
days occupied the site of Cascade Locks. The Indian treaties caused
the removal of the remnant of this tribe to the Warm Springs reser-
vation. With the removal of the Indians the old tribal name has been
nearly lost.
Not all of the mountains adjacent to the Columbia, in the Cascade
range have been named. Within the area covered by the Mt. Hood
quadrangle, along the drainage slope of the river, are some twenty
summits exceeding 3,500 feet in altitude, that are nameless. Of this
number ten are of greater altitude than Larch mountain. Across the
Columbia, the companion peak to Table mountain is without name.
A dozen others lie back in the ranges to the north.
Some one has called the mountain between the forks of Herman
creek, Mt. Woolyhorn. For want of anything better the members of
the State Agricultural College Geologic Survey have so termed it.
The topographic work for the Troutdale quadrangle has been in
progress during the past summer. It is to the interest of the people
of Portland to see that appropriate names are included for all the promi-
nent natural objects. This will insure a satisfactory map. As an
example we have Vancouver point, named by Lieutenant Broughton
on the first attempted exploration of the Columbia in October, 1792,
as the point where he terminated his work and returned to the sea.
This point, which juts prominently on the Washington side a short
distance above the mouth of the Sandy, was definitely located by Mr.
T. C. Elliott, George H. Himes and the writer, by aid of a photo-
graphic reproduction of a map drawn by Lewis and Clark. This point
has been called Cottonwood point. Other places of historical interest
have been almost forgotten and the historic or aboriginal names have
disappeared, while local names that bespeak the misdirected intelli-
gence of surveyors and map makers have obscured the work of the
earlier explorers.
Two Useful Botanical Manuals
By M. W. GORMAN
Our local walks have now become so well established and so im-
portant a part of our training for the more serious work of the annual
outing that any aids to the interest of the members who take part are
to be hailed with pleasure. The three scientific subjects to which
attention is directed on these trips are geology, botany, and ornithology,
and we derive pleasure and improvement from these outings in pro-
portion to our powers of observation. While the presence of someone
versed in these subjects is always of great assistance to the learner in
answering questions that arise and settling matters of doubt, yet the
instructions given, to be effective and permanent, should be supple-
mented by the use of a good manual on the particular subject studied.
On the subject of botany two very desirable manuals for our re-
gion, in addition to those mentioned in our last bulletin, have recently
appeared, viz.: — Northwest Flora by Professors T. C. Frye and G. B.
This book is a small quarto volume of 453 pages, written primarily
to supply students of the University of Washington and incidentally
of the other universities, colleges, and high schools of the northwest with
a reliable textbook on the flora of this region. The area covered is
identical with that of Howell's "Flora of Northwest America," viz: —
Oregon, Washington, Idaho, and southwestern British Columbia.
The cryptogamous plants (ferns and fern allies) are omitted, only
the true flowering plants being included, and the large scope of the work
is indicated by the number of species and varieties described, viz: — 3,412,
of which 3,166 are native and some 246 are introduced plants, chiefly
European. It is somewhat to be regretted that these introduced species
are not indicated by small caps in the text as is done in "Gray's New
Manual of Botany," a distinction that is of great help to the student
and beginner.
Complete, concise, and very usable keys to the families, genera,
and species have been compiled, a useful glossary added, and a most
commendable effort has been made to give the common names of
practically all the species described. The latter feature at once makes
the book highly usable to the layman and general reader, and to
still further recommend it in this respect, a description is given of the
origin or meaning of the generic name in each case.
This is followed by a conscientious effort to indicate the distri-
bution of each species by adding after the description, the following
88 Two Useful Botanical Manuals
letters, viz : — the letter C for plants occuring in the Cascade Range,
E for plants east of the Cascade Range, U for plants of southwest-
ern Oregon, and W for plants west of the Cascade Range. That
errors should occur in this feature is, perhaps, inevitable, and, as the
authors are both men actively engaged in teaching, they probably
never had an opportunity to collect plants in Multnomah and Col-
umbia counties, Oregon, or in Clarke and Cowlitz counties, Washington.
In any event the fact remains that numerous species credited to the
region east of the Cascade Range and naturally belonging there have
long since found their way through the Columbia gorge and are now
well established on Hayden island and along the borders of the Col-
umbia river in the above named counties. Among these we might
mention a few, such as: —
Chenopodium botrys Jerusalem oak
Corispermum hyssopifolium Bug-seed
Mollugo verticillata Carpet-weed
Saponaria officinalis Soapwort
Lepidium apetalum Roadside peppergrass
Convolvulus sepium Hedge bindweed
Melissa officinalis Garden balm
Nicotiana attenuata Narrow-leaved tobacco
Aster frondosus Short-rayed aster
Erigeron divergens Spreading fleabane
Bidens vulgata Tall beggar-ticks
Artemisia biennis Biennial wormwood
Artemisia gnapholodes Lobed wormwood
Artemisia dracunculoides Linear-leaved wormwood
Artemisia Lindleyana Lindley's wormwood
while a few species, chiefly weeds, such as the common St. John's-
wort, credited to west of the Cascade range, can also be found east of
it, and a very small number, such as Euphorbia crenulata (Wood
spurge), credited to southwestern Oregon, can be found on Rock island
and some other islands in the Willamette river.
That some species have been omitted is not surprising in a first
edition. Among these we might mention a few introduced plants that
are now fairly well established about Portland and in the Willamette
valley generally, viz: —
Chenopodium glaucum Oak-leaved goosefoot
Galenia secunda One-sided galenia
Paronychia Chilensis Chileno whitlow-wort
Ononis arvensis Rest-harrow
Conium maculatum Poison hemlock
Foeniculum vulgar e Fennel
Lysimachia Nummularia Moneywort
Two Useful Botanical Manuals 89
Lysimachia terrestris Bog loosestrife
Phlox, paniculata Garden phlox
Myosotis versicolor Varied scorpion-grass
Mazus rugosus Mud-flower
Sherardia arvensis Field madder
Echinops Ritro Porcupine flower
Senecio sylvaticus Lowland groundsel
These and other omissions and corrections, together with such new
species from this region as may be described in the meantime, can be
correctly included in the next edition.
When a second edition is being prepared, we cannot too strongly
urge upon the authors the advisability of including the cryptogams,
as everyone, student and layman alike, is interested in our ferns.
This is all the more necessary as Howell's Flora also omits the ferns and
fern allies, the author's intention having been to include them in a
second volume which it is to be regretted he did not live to complete.
One other improvement might here be suggested. The importance
of a good index in any book, particularly in a scientific work cannot
be overestimated, and if we are not asking too much of the authors,
we would suggest that in the next edition an index such as that in
Robinson and Fernald's "Gray's New Manual, 7th ed." be used. The
facility and time-saving in using such an index compensates the student
tenfold for the trifling additional cost or added bulk of the volume.
Flora of the Northwest Coast by Professors C. V. Piper and R. Kent
Beattie. This, the most recent of our manuals on northwestern botany,
is a handsome octavo volume of 43 1 pages. The region covered includes
the area west of the summit of the Cascades from the 49th parallel
south to the Calapooya mountains on the southern border of Lane
county, Oregon.
As the book is chiefly intended for the use of students in our high
schools and colleges, the treatment given the subject is strictly scien-
tific, but a careful perusal of its pages will show that it is also available
for the use of the layman and general reader who are interested in bot-
any. The number of technical terms used is not very great, but for
the benefit of those to whom they are not familiar, a useful glossary is
appended.
The total number of species and varieties described is 1,619, of
which 61 are ferns and fern allies and 1 , 558 are flowering plants. Among
the latter, 176 species are introduced plants, chiefly European, and
1,382 are natives of the Northwest. Of the above 1,558 species, 54
are trees, 100 are shrubs and 1,404 are herbaceous plants.
The keys to the families and genera are exceptionally good and as
concise as the subject will permit. The generic descriptions are fol-
90 Two Useful Botanical Manuals
lowed by a short key to the species in all cases except those consisting
of a single species, a feature of great assistance to the student and the
amateur, while the specific descriptions are models of clearness and con-
ciseness.
The specific description of Betula glandulosa, "Low shrub, about
one meter high," will have to be amended if B. Hallii of Howell is to
be included therein, as specimens referred to the latter, can be found
12 to 15 feet high on Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson.
In the description of Rosa gymnocarpa, page. 205, the statement is
made, — "leaflets 5-9." So far as our observation goes, not a single
full-grown bush of this rose occurs in this vicinity that does not show
eleven leaflets to be common, and a reference to "Douglas Journal,"
Page 113, shows that as long ago as 1825 that keen observer states
"Rosa sp., leaflets 9-11."
The authors were evidently actuated by a conscientious desire to
include only such species as were positively known to occur in the re-
gion covered. To do this consistently, it became necessary in nearly
all cases to describe only such plants as were collected within the above
limits and to be found in the national herbarium at Washington, D. C.
The result of such precaution is that about 150 species of native and
probably 25 species of introduced plants that actually occur in this
area have been omitted. This of course can be corrected in a second
edition. The fact that such well known shrubs as: —
Cytisus scoparius Broom
Garryia Fremontii Quinine bush
Baccharis pilularis Groundsel bush
such common weeds as: —
Agrostemma Githago Corn cockle
Saponaria Vaccaria Cow herb
Melilotus officinalis Yellow sweet clover
Conium maculatum Poison hemlock
Bellis perennis Daisy
and such well known native plants as : —
Delphinium Oreganum Oregon larkspur
Ranunculus Bolanderi Bolander's buttercup
Therofon majus Large-leaved saxifrage
Solanum triflorum Cut-leaved nightshade
and many others were omitted, should be a strong incentive to botanists
in western Oregon to see that full and complete collections of our
plants are sent to the National herbarium in the near future.
E u
3 u
-28
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4J 4)
30
Photographs by Charles J . Merlen.
Scenes on midwinter skiing trip, south base of Mt. Hood.
The Skiing Trip
By MARGARET A. GRIFFIN
On Thursday, December 30, 1915, at half-past one o'clock, thirteen
curiously clad young people were to be seen loading themselves, their
packs, snowshoes and skis into the waiting automobiles in front of the
Northwestern Bank Building, the home of the Mazamas. Sedate
townsfolk passed by with looks of inquiry. Others paused to watch, and
to them it soon became plain that these were not Eskimos — only parka-
clad Mazamas, off to the hills for a holiday.
Our destination was Government Camp, which is located at the
base of Mt. Hood, on the south side. We were to make as much of the
journey as possible by automobile and to walk the rest of the way on
snowshoes. We were soon on our way, and, being pleasure bent, made
no complaints when the road grew rough and an occasional mudhole
delayed our progress. What is a mudhole when broad Mazama shoul-
ders are put to the wheel ? We were in search of Winter and hailed with
delight the first snow. We arrived at Rhododendron Inn about six
o'clock in good spirits and ready for our ten mile walk. At Toll Gate
we left the automobiles, which could not well go further on account of
the snow, donned our snowshoes, shouldered our packs, and set out for
Government Camp.
Many of us were inexperienced in the use of snowshoes and conse-
quently there was some variation in speed ; but with a leader ahead and
a guide in the rear, each felt free to choose his own gait, and the party
soon broke up into groups. The road, so well known to us in summer-
time, was lost to sight under many feet of snow; and familiar landmarks
were either snowed under or had assumed strange disguises. Neverthe-
less, those ahead led us straight through to Government Camp, uner-
ringly.
I shall not soon forget that weird journey. The hills seemed to
tower higher and higher as the night closed in upon us. Steadily we
crunched over the snow. White shrouded trees awed us. Strange
sounds broke the forest hush and checked us, listening. Bears? Cou-
gars? Only the wind. So the miles slipped behind us. Then the lights
of Government Camp twinkled reassuringly, foretelling the welcome
of blazing fires, a hot supper and the hand clasp of our genial host, Mr.
Pridemore.
We found snow in great banks, some over twenty feet deep, sur-
rounding the buildings, completely covering the fences, lying four to
six feet on the level and so changing the general appearance of the place
as to make a new country of once familiar ground.
92 The Skiing Trip
We arose early the next morning, that we might be about the seri-
ous business of learning to ski. Many of us had much to learn — how
to slide, turn, sidle up a hill; and above all, how to fall, that we might
unassisted rise again ; for skis have a queer way of tying themselves into
knots. A very small hill satisfied the requirements of most of us that
first day and, selecting our skis, we went to work. When we were thor-
oughly tired with this unaccustomed sport, we were glad to return to
the warm fires, the bountiful supper table and the cheer of the evening
hours. The big hotel had been turned over to us and we made ourselves
comfortably at home. I think there was never a group of Mazamas
that gave itself over so completely to the holiday spirit or crowded so
much fun into a few short days. There was not a dull moment, and
when the entire party gathered around one long table in response to the
dinner bell, good spirits ran riot.
We had a New Year party Friday evening and watched the Old
Year out and the New Year in before we slept the sound sleep that we
deserved.
Saturday was a day of uninterrupted pleasure — if you call it
pleasure to tease long forgotten muscles by laborious climbs and swift
descents, often enlivened by a sudden passage in the air or a still more
sudden burrow in the snow. The weather was perfect — everyone in
good spirits. Feeling confident that our practice of the previous day
had not been in vain, we selected a much steeper hill than before, and
all day long we played, sliding and climbing and tumbling in the snow.
Sometimes we did unexpectedly clever things — on one foot perhaps.
Sometimes we started six abreast, with disastrous results at the foot
of the hill. But, on the whole, we made good progress, by practice and
the assistance of those experts and near-experts who were included in
the party.
Skiing is an exercise which brings every muscle into play and calls
for considerable skill in balancing. Some of the steeper hills made
demands upon our nerve, for though the descent was swift and certain,
our ultimate destination and our method of arriving were most uncer-
tain. There was an exhilaration in the rapid downward flight and a
fascination in executing a long curve, balancing and guiding and gradu-
ally coming to a stop, still erect.
In the afternoon we climbed for an hour or more far up the side
of Mt. Hood and reaped the harvest of our morning's work in long swift
slides, with no tedious climbs between. Down one slope and then
another we went, often without pause, curving around trees, swooping
down over sudden drops and rising over mounds of snow.
It was a day plucked from the calendar of childhood's happy years,
The Skiing Trip 93
but even such days must end. Reluctantly we turned our faces home-
ward. The sun dropped behind the hills and the jagged outlines of
the ranges sharpened against the afterglow. Swiftly the winter twilight
fell over a white world. Gently and sweetly we were drawn back into
the dignity of our grown-up spheres by the hand of Him Whose world
is given us.
Sunday dawned clear and bright — our last day. We had our first
good view of Mt. Hood that morning. The atmosphere was unusually
clear and the mountain seemed close enough to touch, and was mag-
nificently big and white and still. As if in farewell, she swept aside the
curtains of fog and we looked for a long time, fixing in memory that
vision of massive beauty.
There followed a few more hours on the hills; then a chill wind blew
down from the mountain and dismissed us, whispering something that
we could not understand. We returned to the hotel, put away our
skis, fortified ourselves with another of those hearty dinners. We were
reluctant to go. Throughout our stay fortune had seemed to favor us.
The weather had been crisp but not too cold for skiing. Our parkas
had kept us warm. The snow had been in good condition and there
had been no wet clothing to fret us. But the time for departure had
come. We said goodbye to our host and hostess — indulgent to the
last — and to the hills, the mountain and the snow. Then came the
bustle of departure. Very soon after dinner we were on our way.
Once more the soft "crunch, crunch" of the snowshoes over miles of
snow, the waning day, the twilight, and the homeward ride.
Then, as we glided noiselessly into Portland, that whispered mes-
sage of the wind was made clear to us, and we laughed to see our city
blinking sleepily under her new blanket of soft white snow. Her hills
called us to come with our skis, and in fancy we could hear the tinkle
of sleigh bells and the "Track! Track!" of the coasters. Our fun was
not over; it had just begun.
It is easy running from a mountain's top
down to the valleys at its foot,
But difficult and steep the laborious ascent, and
feebly shalt thou reach it.
— M . F. Tupper
Geographical Progress in the Pacific Northwest
By LEWIS A. MCARTHUR
Excellent progress has been made during the past year along geographical lines
in Oregon and Washington, and many new maps and publications have been issued
that contribute materially to our knowledge of areas that heretofore have been but
little known. These maps and publications are valuable alike to those interested in
development work of all sorts, including commercial enterprises, and to those who
care for the outdoors.
The maps issued by the United States Geological Survey include the following
quadrangles: Tualatin, Albany, Estacada, Chehalis, Coyote Rapids in central
Washington, Arlington, Condon and Willamette valley, sheets 7 and 8 in the vicinity
of Corvallis, Albany and Lebanon. These and previously existing maps published
by the U. S. Geological Survey may be secured in Portland for ten cents each, with
the exception of the Willamette valley sheets which are more expensive.
It is understood that the following sheets will soon be off the press; Diamond
lake, north of Crater lake; Priest rapids in central Washington, Pasco and
Willamette valley No. 9. Advance sheets of the following maps may now be
secured from the Geological Survey, and the engraved editions will be issued next
year: Hillsboro, Salem, Kerby in southwestern Oregon, Wallula and Pasco.
Efforts are now being made by the Oergon Geographic Board working with the
Forest Service to secure the addition and revision of names on a number of the
older Geological Survey sheets in Oregon and Washington, and already considerable
data has been submitted. It is believed that as the older maps are reprinted much
new information will be included on them. In fact, a new printing of the Mount
Hood sheet is just off the press with a great deal of revised nomenclature, much of
which originated with the Mazama special committee on names along the Columbia
river highway. This new edition shows the highway and all the changes recom-
mended by the Mazamas. and it should be used in all cases instead of the old edition
published in 1913. The Oregon Geographic Board has submitted a large number of
corrections to the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey charts in the way of new names
and correct spellings, and these data are being incorporated in new editions as fast
as they are issued. The Coast Survey has been very willing to co-operate in this work.
During the past summer field work by the Geological Survey was completed
on the Mt. St. Helens, Connell in eastern Washington, Walla Walla and the Oregon
portion of the Troutdale quadrangles. In addition about half of the Twickenham
quadrangle in the John Day valley was mapped.
In addition to the taking of topography as outlined above, there were three ex-
tensive triangulation schemes finished in this territory last summer and the computa-
tions are now under way in Washington. The U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey
completed the extension of its primary arc from Utah across Idaho, over the Blue
mountains and down the Columbia river to a connection with the coast arc near
Portland. This new arc located a large number of geographic positions in Oregon,
made more accurate many old positions, and will put all the Oregon triangulation
heretofore completed, on the standard North American base. It will furnish con-
trol for many additional topographic maps along its route.
The Geological Survey extended triangulation from the John Day country
northeast of Prineville southwestward to the summit of the Cascade range, locating
about 30 new positions, and giving control especially to the Bend quandrangle,
which will probably be mapped next summer. The Geological Survey also completed
Geographical Progress in the Pacific Northwest 95
an extensive triangulation net north from Diamond peak along the western flanks
of the Cascade range to the McKenzie river, which will be used as a base for many
new maps, including the Diamond peak sheet which is on the program for com-
pletion next summer.
Last year the Geological Survey completed a very accurate survey of the Skagit
river in northern Washington, mapping a section that has been but little known.
The advance sheets have been issued. An interesting volume on the water powers
of the Yakima valley has been issued by the Geological Survey, entitled Bulletin 369.
This book contains many maps of the eastern slopes of the Cascade range.
During the past two or three years fine soil maps have been issued by the De-
partment of Agriculture covering practically all of western Washington. They
may be obtained from the Bureau of Soils in Washington.
The Forest Service has issued a very interesting map of the Columbia Gorge
park, showing contours and a view of the Cascade range north of Mt. Hood, and
in addition excellent maps have been issued of the Oregon, Deschutes, Siuslaw,
Siskiyou, Ochoco, Umatilla, Whitman, and Malheur National Forests in Oregon and
of the Rainier, Chelan and Washington National Forests in Washington. New
maps have been completed for the Crater, Wenaha, Okanogan, and Wenatchee
National Forests, and these will be published during the coming year, and in addition,
work is being completed on the Olympic and Snoqualmie National Forest maps,
and also on a fine topographic map of the Columbia National Forest, compiled by
the photographic process.
During the coming spring it is planned to complete new maps of the Santiam,
Cascade and Umpqua National Forests, as these districts are becoming more popu-
lar as summer camping grounds, and maps are needed for proper fire protection.
The Reclamation Service in co-operation with the state has issued valuable re-
ports on the Deschutes, Ochoco, John Day, Malheur, Harney, Warner, Rogue river,
and Silver lake projects, and these contain new maps. The map of the Warner
lakes region is exceedingly interesting, as it represents a contribution to the geo-
graphic knowledge of the state that is very valuable. All previous maps of this
section have been of little value.
During the past summer the United States Geographic Board compiled a volume
of decisions of that body, including some 335 pages. This volume is highly valua-
ble as a reference work, and it supersedes all previous volumes of decisions of the
U. S. Board. There are over 1 ,000 of these decisions that apply to names of features
in Oregon and Washington.
Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of
North America
During the summer of 1915, I visited the mountaineering clubs and geographi-
cal societies of the country and suggested the formation of an Association for the
furtherance of common aims, and for the establishment of headquarters in New York
where mountaineering information might be collected and made available. The
plan was outlined as follows:
It was proposed to form an association of clubs and societies, each of which
shall co-operate through its secretary, and transact its business by correspondence
with the general secretary. Each club shall send its printed matter which will be
added to the collection of mountaineering literature established in the New York
Public Library. An annual bulletin of information on the membership, officers,
and activities of the leading organizations shall be issued. The secretary of each
club will notify the general secretary of the movements of local members who have
interesting slides, and who can address the members of the Association at such
times as they may be in different parts of the country.
One of the most important features of a club's activities is that of its library.
Members should be encouraged to read what is being done in the mountaineering
world, for education in this direction is as essential to a true appreciation and en-
joyment of mountaineering as is the work in the field. Copies of many of the new
books in mountaineering will be sent to each club for review in its annual pub-
lication and bulletins, thereby materially assisting in the growth of its library.
It is believed that the existence of this Association will have a valuable influence
in many directions, and, occupying the field, its activities may expand as experience
and occasion make desirable.
Meeting with a favorable response to the above ideas, I sent out a preliminary
letter and received unofficial replies in approval of the plan. At the annual meeting
of the American Alpine Club, held at the New York Public Library on Jan. 8, 1916,
I presented these letters and asked that the Councilors of the Club be instructed to
consider the plan and to send out an official letter to each club inviting it to become
a member of the proposed association.
After due consideration, the Councilors of the American Alpine Club sent
such a letter in March to the leading clubs, asking them to join in a Bureau of
Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America. Securing a majority of
acceptances, they declared the plan in operation on May 2, 1916.
The first official act of the Bureau was the publication in May of a bulletin
containing statistics of the membership, officers, and activities of the leading moun-
taineering clubs and geographical societies of the continent. The present mem-
bership of the Bureau comprises the following organizations. (Some others await
the annual meeting of their directors.)
American Alpine Club.
Appalachian Mountain Club.
British Columbia Mountaineering Club.
Colorado Mountain Club.
Geographic Society of Chicago.
Geographical Society of Philadelphia.
Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club.
Mazamas.
Mountaineers.
Prairie Club.
Sierra Club.
United States National Parks Service.
A valuable reference collection of mountaineering books has been formed by
the New York Public Library in the main building at 476 5th Ave., and we have
secured the deposit of the library of the American Alpine Club. The combined
collection promises to become one of the most important in existence. A collec-
tion of photographs and enlargements of mountain scenery in all parts of the world
is also being made, and contributions of mounted or unmounted views will be
appreciatively received.
LEROY JEFFERS,
General Secretary,
Librarian American Alpine Club.
Photograph by Winter Photo Co.
A 1916 view taken on site of Mazama camp of 1910, showing large quantity of snow unusually
late in the year.
Harley H. Prouty.
JW^mortam
HARLEY H. PROUTY
On September 11, 1916, at St. Vincent's Hospital, Portland, Oregon,
Harley H. Prouty, after an illness of a few weeks departed this life.
Mr. Prouty was born in Newport, Vermont, June 26, 1857, and was in
his sixtieth year at the time of his death. He was the son of John Prouty,
and was descended from one of the oldest New England families, its
records dating back to 1667. His brothers, Charles A. and George
Herbert Prouty are well known public men, the former having served
for many years as Interstate Commerce Commissioner, and the latter
having been governor of Vermont.
John Prouty, Harley 's father, was one of the pioneer lumbermen
of Vermont and in this business Harley spent his early manhood. After
graduating with honors from St. Johnsbury Academy, Vermont, he
spent several years in the lumbering business in Canada, subsequently
selling out his interests in the Prouty Milling plant and coming to Seattle,
Washington. From Seattle he came to Portland, residing here for many
years.
Through habits of thrift and close attention to business, Mr.
Prouty a number of years ago accumulated a competence, and for the
last ten years had retired from business and devoted his time to travel-
ing in this country, Europe and the Orient. He was greatly devoted to
mountaineering and kindred sports. He was an active member of the
Sierra Club, the Alpine Club of Canada and an ex-president of the
Mazamas. As an alpinist he had few superiors in this country. Prouty
Peak, a summit peak of the North Sister, in the Cascades, was first
ascended by him and has been so named to commemorate his splendid
work on the mountains.
Mr. Prouty was modest and retiring but exceedingly interesting
as a conversationalist and effective as a writer. His sympathies were
with struggling humanity — evidenced by his munificent testamentary
gift to the Salvation Army for carrying on their work in his adopted
city.
In the passing of Mr. Prouty, the out-of-doors life has lost a most
ardent devotee, the Mazamas an honored and useful member, and the
State a worthy citizen.
98 In Memoriam
HART KEOKUK SMITH
Hart K. Smith was born September 15, 1875, in Wayne County,
Iowa. His early education was received in a public school in Hume,
Missouri, where he lived until he was twenty years old, and later on it
was supplemented by a course at a college in Macomb, Illinois.
His boyhood days, like those of so many others of his countrymen,
were spent on a farm until his favorite vocation impelled him to travel
over several of the middle and Pacific states in his desire to study and
collect Indian tools and implements.
He arrived in Portland early in 1904, and for about ten years was
in the employ of the Pacific Telephone and Telegraph Co. as store-
keeper. In this vicinity, with its wealth of aboriginal village sites,
kitchen middens, fishing grounds, shell mounds, and ancient implement
factories about St. Johns, the Peninsula, Sauvie Island and Oregon
City, he found a field with unlimited possibilities, and for some years
all his spare time was spent in the collection and study of these inter-
esting relics of a bygone age and a vanishing race.
His keenness in the pursuit of this study is well exemplified by the
following incident. An old farmer on the Peninsula on whose place it
was well known that an old village site existed, obstinately refused to
allow anyone to search for relics thereon. A freshly plowed field offered
such an irresistible temptation to Mr. Smith that he calmly awaited
for a very foggy day and then diligently walked over the field, furrow
by furrow, and was duly rewarded by finding five primitive implements
left or mislaid by the early inhabitants.
His powers of observation were of a high order and his keenness in
detecting an artifact and in determining its use were such that the writer
never knew him to make an erroneous decision on these subjects. He
was the first person in Portland to purchase and read the invaluable
work of W. K. Moorehead on "The Stone Age in North America" and
of Frederick Smith on "The Stone Ages in North Britain and Ireland."
The writings of these enthusiasts only stimulated him to further efforts
and incited greater zeal in this absorbing study. That he accomplished
so much in this branch of science with such limited leisure and means,
may be a surprise even to his fellow members, when it is learned that
he collected almost 3,000 specimens of the red man's handicraft, and
that these collections extended over eleven states.
Coupled with his archaeological bent and keenness of observation
were a high regard for the rights and feelings of others, and a spirit of
altruism of which only those who knew him intimately were aware.
In Memoriam 99
His entrance into the fold of the Mazamas opened to him a new
field of good-fellowship and gave him an opportunity for study in the
great outdoors that he appreciated and enjoyed to the fullest extent.
A severe cold, contracted in the autumn of 1915, gradually but
surely led to tuberculosis, and on October 26, 1916, he passed away,
mourned alike by relations, fellow members and friends.
^^^^ M. W. GORMAN
EMIL FRANZETTI
In the fullness of his powers, in love with life, and actively engaged
in the carrying out of many plans whereby others might derive pleasure
and health, Emil Franzetti, an honored member of the Mazamas
was called by death on Saturday, the nineteenth of November, last.
His record is an open book. As proprietor of Rhododendron
Tavern, close to Mt. Hood, he had come to be known, loved and re-
spected alike by both travelers and neighbors.
To be intimately acquainted with Emil Franzetti was to get a
new vision of life in its best aspects. No one who has known him
can ever forget that wondrous smile, or the warm clasp of that strong
right hand, which was in deed and in truth a right hand of fellowship.
His fellow members can recall only with pleasure the many happy
and profitable hours spent when on one occasion or another, they
were the guests of this true friend. He never failed so to give of him-
self and of his interest that the success of the outing was assured from
the beginning.
Not only under his own roof was he known to Mazamas, for occa-
sionally he would join in the outings, and so he came to be recognized
as one of the organization's foremost mountaineers and nature lovers.
Emil Franzetti was born thirty-five years ago in Osmete, a border
town of the Italian Alps. He came to America about eleven years
ago. His occupation was that of a chef, perhaps his most prominent
position being with the staff of the Waldorf-Astoria in New York City.
Moving to Portland eight years ago, he at once established himself
at the head of his art in this city. Four years ago he purchased Rho-
dodendron Tavern, where he resided until the time of his death.
"I climb the hill; from end to end
Of all the landscape underneath
I find no place that does not breathe
Some gracious memory of my friend."
— Tennyson.
OSMON ROYAL
Mazama Outing for 1917
The Mazamas have decided to visit Mt. Jefferson, located in the
Santiam National forest, August 4-19, 1917, for their twenty- fourth
annual outing. The camp will be either at Pamelia lake or Hunts Cove
at the southwest base, or in that veritable paradise on the north side,
Jefferson Park.
Pamelia lake, although much lower than Jefferson Park, makes a
good camping place where a plentiful supply of trout may be obtained
at our very door. From either Pamelia lake or Hunts Cove, the moun-
tain is easily accessible, with an elevation of 6,000 or 7,000 feet to over-
come in ascending to the summit. The route into Pamelia lake, after
a railroad journey via Albany and Detroit, Oregon, at the terminus of
the C. & E. branch of the Southern Pacific railroad, leads one up the
beautiful North Santiam river through a primeval forest, over a trail of
some fifteen or twenty miles, with very agreeable grades. From Pamelia
lake, many side trips entice one to the numerous waterfalls and cata-
racts, and afford varied views of Jefferson and other prominent peaks
in the vicinity.
If Jefferson Park should be chosen for the campsite, a different
route would be followed from Detroit, the trail leading up the Breiten-
bush a distance of twenty or thirty miles, permitting a visit to the famous
Breitenbush hot springs. Once established in Jefferson Park, the scenic
attractions on every hand are unbounded. There are many crystal-
line lakes ever reflecting Mt. Jefferson on their placid surfaces. This
park occupies a hanging valley nestled close to the side of the mountain,
at an elevation of about 6,000 feet, to reach which the trail leads over a
ridge 7,000 feet in elevation, affording a glorious view of Mt. Jefferson
and Jefferson Park.
Jefferson Park is about three miles in length by one mile in maxi-
mum width, and is at the crest of the Cascades, its waters plunging down
at each end of the valley in a succession of cataracts and draining into
both eastern and western Oregon. Camp in this spot will be of interest
to the botanist on account of the great variety and profusion of the
flowers.
A prospectus giving more specific details will be issued early in
1917.
L. E. ANDERSON,
Chairman Outing Committee.
Mazama Organization for the
Year 1916-1917
OFFICERS
WILLIAM P. HARDESTY (418 City Hall, Portland) President
A. BOYD WILLIAMS (131 East Nineteenth St., Portland) V ice-President
Miss BEULAH F. MILLER (629 East Ash St., Portland) . . . .Corresponding Secretary
Miss JEAN RICHARDSON (888 East Washington St., Portland) . .Recording Secretary
Miss MARTHA E. NILSSON (320 East Eleventh St. N., Portland) . .Financial Secretary
Miss MARY C. HENTHORNE (Library Association, Portland) Historian
ROY W. AYER (131 East Nineteenth St., Portland) Treasurer
LEROY E. ANDERSON (213 N. W. Bank Bldg., Portland). Chairman Outing Committee
ROBERT E. HITCH (602 Fenton Bldg., Portland). .Chairman Local Walks Committee
COMMITTEES
Outing Committee — Leroy E. Anderson, Chairman; Francis W. Benefiel, Miss Martha
E. Nilsson.
Local Walks Committee— Robert E. Hitch, Chairman; Charles J. Merten, W. W.
Ross, Miss Agnes G. Lawson, Miss Margaret A. Griffin.
House Committee — E. C. Sammons, Chairman; O. B. Ballou, Miss Pearle E. Harnois,
Miss Anna Bullivant, Miss Charlotte M. Harris.
Entertainment Committee — Miss Nettie G. Richardson, Chairman; Arthur S. Peter-
son, C. V. Luther, Miss Alice Banfield, Miss Minna Backus.
Publication Committee — Miss Mary C. Henthorne, Chairman; Alfred F. Parker, Miss
Beulah F. Miller.
Educational Committee — Arthur K. Trenholme, Chairman; John A. Lee, A. M.
Churchill, Miss Lola Creighton, Miss Jean Richardson.
Library Committee — Miss Mary C. Henthorne, Chairman; Leroy E. Anderson,
Charles A. Benz, Miss Beulah F. Miller, Miss Ella P. Roberts.
Membership Promotion Committee — Roy W. Ayer, Chairman; T. Raymond Conway,
Miss Harriet E. Monroe.
Membership Committee — A. Boyd Williams, Chairman; Miss Beulah F. Miller, Miss
Martha E. Nilsson.
Auditing Committee — Robert F. Riseling, Chairman; B. W. Newell, Miss Martha O.
Goldapp.
Constitution and By- Laws of the Mazamas
as approved at a special meeting
held in Portland, Oregon, June 29, 1916
ARTICLE I. — NAME
The name of the organization shall be "Mazamas."
ARTICLE II. — OBJECTS
The objects of this organization shall be the exploration of snow peaks and other
mountains, especially of the Pacific Northwest; the collection of scientific knowledge
and other data concerning the same; the encouragement of annual expeditions with
the above objects in view; the preservation of the forests and other features of moun-
tain scenery as far as possible in their natural beauty; and the dissemination of
knowledge concerning the beauty and grandeur of the mountain scenery of the
Pacific Northwest.
ARTICLE III— OFFICERS
Section 1. The affairs of this organization shall be controlled and managed
by a board of nine directors, who shall be known as the Executive Council, and whose
duties shall include the appointment of all committees, and the filling of all vacancies
in the Executive Council. They shall be elected annually and shall hold office until
their successors are elected and qualified.
Sec. 2. The Executive Council shall hold regular meetings once each month.
Special meetings, however, may be called at any time by the President, and, in his
absence, by the Secretary, by giving 24 hours' notice, either written or verbal, of
the same to members thereof. The attendance of any member of the Executive
Council at a meeting thereof shall be a full waiver of all notice of said meeting by
the members so attending. A majority of the members of the Executive Council
shall constitute a quorum for the legal transaction of all business.
Sec. 3. The members of the Executive Council shall be nominated and elected
as follows: The Executive Council shall, at least six weeks previous to the annual
meeting, appoint from the members of the club at large a nominating committee of
five. It shall be their duty to nominate a ticket of eighteen candidates for the Ex-
ecutive Council for the ensuing year; provided, however, that the name of any mem-
ber proposed to the committee in writing by any ten (10) members of the Club shall
be added to such ticket. Within two weeks after its appointment the said committee
shall file its report with the Corresponding Secretary of the Club, who shall, at least
three (3) weeks previous to the annual meeting, have printed and mailed to each
member of the Club a ballot of such nominees. This ballot shall have the names of
all nominees arranged with a blank space for the insertion of any additional name,
the nominees selected by the Nominating Committee to be so designated, and oppo-
site each name a space for the marking of a cross. Upon each ballot shall be the fol-
lowing words :
"BALLOT FOR OFFICERS OF THE MAZAMAS."
"Annual election Monday, October (Here insert date of annual
election). Polls open from 1 to 4 p. m. Directions for voting."
"Vote for nine candidates by marking a cross opposite the names
of the candidates selected. Vote in person at the annual election or
mail your ballot; in which case indorse your name on the envelope;
Constitution and By-Laws 103
otherwise the ballot will not be counted. The election is so conducted
by the judges as to keep each vote secret."
With such ballot the Secretary shall mail a stamped envelope,
with the following address and words printed thereon:
"Executive Council, Mazamas,
(Here insert postoffice address)
Portland, Oregon.
"Ballot from "
Sec. 4. The annual election of members of the Executive Council shall be held
at the Club Rooms on the first Monday in October of each year and the voting shall
be by ballot. No notice of such election, except that given by the mailing of such
ballot, shall be necessary.
Sec. 5. The polls shall be open at 1 o'clock p. m. and shall be kept open until
4 o'clock p. m. on the day of election. A plurality of votes shall elect.
Sec. 6. The Executive Council shall appoint five judges of election from the
members of the Club at large to supervise said election, a majority of whom shall be
competent to act, and the Corresponding Secretary of the Council shall refer to them,
unopened, all the envelopes containing ballots.
Sec. 7. The Judges of Election shall at the time of the annual election and be-
fore opening the envelopes, check off the names of those thus voting, and shall there-
upon open and destroy said envelopes, and, without examining the ballot, cast said
ballot in a box provided therefor. At the close of election the judges shall count and
report to the Executive Council in writing the number of votes cast for each candi-
date and the names of those elected to serve as members of the Executive Council,
and the Corresponding Secretary shall thereupon notify in writing the members
elected.
Sec. 8. The officers of this organization shall be a President, Vice-President,
Corresponding Secretary, Recording Secretary, Financial Secretary, Treasurer,
Historian, Chairman of the Outing Committee, and Chairman of the Local Walks
Committee, who shall be chosen annually by the members of the Executive Council
from their own number.
ARTICLE IV. — DUTIES OF OFFICERS
Section 1 . It shall be the duty of the President to preside at all meetings of the
organization and of the Executive Council ; to enforce the by-laws ; to call such meet-
ings as he is empowered to call and to perform such other duties as usually devolve
upon the office of President. The President and the Recording Secretary shall exe-
cute deeds and other instruments on behalf of the corporation when authorized so
to do by the Executive Council.
Sec. 2. It shall be the duty of the Vice-President to assume the duties of the
President in his absence.
Sec. 3. The duties of the Corresponding Secretary shall be to conduct the offi-
cial correspondence of the Club, send all notices of all meetings, circulars, and other
information to members of the Council and of the Club.
Sec. 4. The duties of the Recording Secretary shall be to record the proceedings
of all meetings; receive all applications for membership, sign all orders drawn on the
treasury of the Club, and shall call attention to such business as may properly come
before meetings of the Club or Council, and see that the same is properly disposed
of after action is taken.
Sec. 5. The duties of the Financial Secretary shall be to collect and receive all
moneys, pay over and account for, monthly, to the Treasurer, send notices of annual
104 Constitution and By-Laws
dues and assessments to be collected by the Club, and make a report to each meeting
of the Council as to the amounts received and paid over by him to the Treasurer.
Sec. 6. The duties of the Treasurer shall be to receive all moneys of the Club,
and keep a fair and faithful record of the same. He shall make a written report at
the annual meeting and shall be ready to report at each meeting of the Council when
called upon so to do.
Sec. 7. It shall be the duty of the Historian to keep a record of the field work
of the Society, and to submit the same at the annual meeting each year; also to col-
lect, classify and preserve in suitable form all obtainable written or printed accounts
of the Society and its expeditions and any other descriptive or scientific information
concerning mountaineering in general, and especially concerning the mountains,
lakes, streams and other natural scenery of the Pacific Northwest.
Sec. 8. It shall be the duty of the Chairman of the Outing Committee :
1 . To preside at all meetings of the Outing Committee.
2. To be the executive head of the outing.
3. To conduct all the official correspondence of the outing.
4. To make all necessary outing contracts in the name of the Club, provided
that any contract involving as much as $100.00 shall be approved by a majority of
the Outing Committee and by the Executive Council ; all funds for the outing shall
be paid into the general treasury, provided that while actually in the field the chair-
man shall receive and disburse all funds, keeping an accurate and detailed account of
the same. All bills shall be paid by the warrant system except that bills incurred
while in the field may be paid from funds in the hands of the chairman, collected
while in the field as provided by the Council.
5. The Chairman of the Outing Committee shall not be required to pay any
annual outing assessment.
6. Mazamas, who contemplate any trip or outing advertised as a Mazama
trip or outing, must first secure the sanction of the Outing Committee or Council
and make a financial report to the Council at the close of such trip or outing.
Sec. 9. It shall be the duty of the Chairman of the Local Walks Committee
to supervise the local walks of the Club and remit monthly to the Treasurer all funds
collected from said local walks.
ARTICLE V. — LIBRARIAN
The Executive Council shall be empowered to employ a clerk whose duties shall
be to have charge of the Library and offices of the Mazamas under the direction of
the Historian and Executive Council of the Club. Said Clerk shall be at the service
of any of the officers of the Club to assist them in the performance of their duties,
and shall perform such other duties as may be assigned by the Council. The com-
pensation shall be determined by the Executive Council.
ARTICLE VI. — COMMITTEES
Section 1 . Outing Committee : A committee consisting of three members whose
duty it shall be to take charge of the annual outing and supervise all other outings
of the Club except as otherwise provided for in the By-Laws.
Sec. 2. Local Walks Committee: A committee of five members whose duty
it shall be to arrange for and publish a bulletin of the local walks and take charge of
same, fix upon a nominal charge for those taking part in each walk.
Sec. 3. House Committee: A committee of five members whose duty it shall
be to have general supervision and care of the furnishings of the club rooms, and any
lodge hereafter acquired, or other property of the Club.
Constitution and By-Laws 105
Sec. 4. Entertainment Committee: A committee of five members of the
club whose duty it shall be to provide and arrange for all entertainments for the
Club.
Sec. 5. Educational Committee: A committee of five members whose duty
it shall be to provide and arrange for all educational meetings of the Club.
Sec. 6. Library Committee: A committee consisting of four members in ad-
dition to the Historian, who shall be chairman of the committee, whose duties shall
be to make suitable provision for all publications belonging to the Club and to make
suggestions for adding to the same; also to secure written reports and accounts of
the local walks and local expeditions of the Club, together with photographs of local
scenery on the walks.
Sec. 7. Membership Promotion Committee: A committee of three members
whose duty it shall be to take all proper steps to increase the membership of the
Club.
Sec. 8. Membership Committee: A committee of three members of the
Executive Council who shall investigate the qualifications and eligibility of appli-
cants for membership.
Sec. 9. Publication Committee: A committee of three members whose duty
it shall be to supervise all publications of the Club.
Sec. 10. Auditing Committee: A committee of three members whose duty
it shall be to audit semi-annually the books of the Treasurer and of the Financial
Secretary and, at the close of the annual outing, the books of the Outing Com-
mittee, or of any committee required to make a financial report to the Executive
Council, and report to the Council a statement of the result of the audit of the books
of said officers, with any recommendations concerning said account deemed advis-
able. The bank book and books of account kept by each officer, shall be at all times
open to the inspection of the members of the Auditing Committee.
ARTICLE VII. — MEMBERSHIP
Section 1. There shall be three classes of membership — active, life, and hon-
orary.
Sec. 2. Any person who has climbed to the summit of a perpetual snow peak,
on the sides of which there is at least one living glacier, and to the top of which a
person cannot ride, horseback or otherwise, shall be eligible to active or life member-
ship.
Sec. 3. Applications for active or life membership shall be made in writing to
the Recording Secretary, endorsed by at least two active or life members, accom-
panied by satisfactory proofs of eligibility and by initiation fee in case of active mem-
bership. All applications shall be referred to the Membership Committee and then
posted for two weeks prior to action by the Council or Club. Applications for mem-
bership, after posting and on report of the Membership Committee or on failure of
said committee to report, may be acted on by the Executive Council at any meeting
regularly called, the majority of the whole Council being necessary for election; or
by the Club by ballot, at any meeting regularly called, the majority of all members
present being necessary for election.
Sec. 4. Persons who have rendered distinguished services to the Club, or are
eminent for achievements in exploration, science, or art, shall be eligible for honorary
membership.
Sec. 5. Nominations for honorary membership must be made in writing to the
Recording Secretary, at least thirty days before the date of the annual meeting, and
106 Constitution and By-Laws
be signed by not less than three active or life members, and shall contain a statement
of the reasons why election is urged. The call for the annual meeting shall contain
the names of all persons so nominated. Honorary members shall be elected by ballot
at the annual meeting only, a two-thirds vote of all members present being necessary
for election. Not more than one honorary member shall be elected in any one year.
Sec. 6. Honorary members shall not be required to pay dues, neither shall they
have the right to vote or hold office, but shall have all other rights and privileges of
active members.
Sec. 7. The Executive Council shall have power, by a unanimous vote of all its
members, to expel from the Club any member for such cause as shall in its opinion
justify its action; provided that due notice of the charge has been sent the member
in question to his or her last address known to the Club, and a reasonable oppor-
tunity of defense afforded, and a formal statement of the case made to each member
of the Council. Any member so expelled shall have the right of appeal to an Annual
or General meeting of the Club.
Sec. 8. Resignations of members shall be accepted only in case dues are paid
in full.
ARTICLE VIII. — MEETINGS
Section 1 . The annual meeting of the Club shall be held on the first Monday
in October, and written or printed notice thereof shall be sent by the Corresponding
Secretary to each member at least ten days previously.
Sec. 2. Special meetings shall be convened by the President at any time upon
written request of five active or life members, and written or printed notice thereof
specifying the object of the said meeting, shall be sent by the Secretary to each mem-
ber at least one week previously.
ARTICLE IX. — FINANCIAL
Section 1. Initiation fee of $3.00 shall accompany each application for active
membership, provided that no dues shall be charged a new member from date of
election to the first day of January following said election.
Sec. 2. The dues of all active members shall be $3.00 per annum. Such dues
shall be payable in advance at the beginning of each calendar year, except in the case
of new members, whose dues shall be payable as provided in Section 1 of Article IX
of these by-laws.
Sec. 3. The Financial Secretary shall, prior to February first of each year, mail
notices to all members stating dues are payable. Any active member failing to pay
his or her dues before the first day of May, next following the date same are payable,
shall be delinquent and it shall be the duty of the Financial Secretary at once to
post the names of all delinquent members upon the bulletin board in the rooms of
the Club, where they shall remain posted for a period of 30 days. The Financial
Secretary shall also, and simultaneously with such posting, send notice by mail to
all delinquent members of the fact of their delinquency and the posting of their
names, and in such notice shall warn them that if their dues are not paid within a
period of 30 days from and after the date of posting, their names will be presented
to the Council to be dropped from the roll. The Council shall, in their discretion
formally drop from the roll of members the names of all members so delinquent
whose names have been so presented to the Council by the Financial Secretary, after
their names have been posted and the notice and warning have been given by the
Financial Secretary as before provided.
Constitution and By-Laws 107
Sec. 4. An entrance fee of Fifty ($50.00) Dollars shall be charged life mem-
bers; and they shall not be required to pay annual dues.
Sec. 5 . The Treasurer shall pay out money of the Club only on warrant of the
Recording Secretary, countersigned by the President and authorized by vote of the
Executive Council.
Sec. 6. The Treasurer shall have executed a fidelity bond in favor of the Club*
in protection of moneys of the Club in his possession in amount to be determined
upon by the Executive Council at the beginning of each fiscal year; provided that
the cost of said fidelity or surety bond shall be defrayed by the Club.
ARTICLE X. — QUORUM
Nine active or life members shall constitue a quorum for the transaction of
business.
ARTICLE XL — CONSULS
The Executive Council may appoint from members of the Club local Consuls to
represent the Club in principal cities where desirable. Their duties shall be to render
assistance to the Executive Council and to perform any such duties as may be desig-
nated by said Council from time to time.
ARTICLE XI I. — HONARARY MEMBERS OF COUNCIL
Section 1. The Executive Council may, at their discretion, elect annually, by
an unanimous vote, an Honorary President, who must be a member of the Club,
and who shall have pre-eminently distinguished himself in mountaineering, explora-
tion or research.
Sec. 2. The Executive Council may also elect annually four Honorary Vice-
Presidents, who must be members of the Club, and who shall be selected for such
offices by reason of their prominence in matters identified with the purposes for
which the Club was organized, or because of some material aid and assistance they
may have rendered the Club.
ARTICLE XIII. — OFFICIAL SEAL
The Executive Council shall procure a corporate seal containing date of in-
corporation and Mazama emblem.
ARTICLE XIV. — AMENDMENTS
Amendments to the by-laws may be made at any regularly called meeting of
the Club, provided that such amendment or amendments shall have the signatures
of not less than five active members of the Club and are acquiesced in by two-thirds
of those recording their votes.
Book Reviews
Edited by BEULAH F. MILLER
There was little left to be desired, in text
"THE COLUMBIA, AMERICA s GREATEST . ... rx, T
or picture, in the first edition of Mr. Lan-
HIGHWAY THROUGH THE CASCADE , . r , ^ , , .
caster s classic of the Columbia canyon
and the Highway; this "little," compris-
ing pictures of the completed road and the bridges, more scenes of enchantment in
the gorge, and several new pages of text in the author's eloquent and devotional
style, is supplied in the second edition published in 1916.
There are two brief chapters of popular science describing the formation of the
Cascade Range and Sierra Nevada and of the Columbia river and the gorge, giving
glimpses of the Indian life in the Columbia basin, and narrating the adventures of
the fur traders and the early missionaries.
Under the chapter entitled "The Struggle to Possess the Land," excerpts are
given from the simple but absorbing diaries of the heroic pioneers who suffered har-
rowing hardships in the earliest journeys over rude trails through the canyon, and
by crude rafts down the river. In dramatic juxtaposition with these annals of 1849
are placed beautiful pictures of our paved boulevard of today, its walls and via-
ducts and bridges, and the cataracts and palisades as seen from the Highway.
Thirty-five new half-tones, including striking views of St. Peters Dome, of
Eagle creek and its picturesque arch bridge of water-washed boulders, are added;
and the exquisite photographs in natural color are the crowning pictorial feature
of this, as well as of the first edition.
As a handbook de luxe of the Columbia river scenery, and a dependable short
historical sketch of early settlement and transportation in the Columbia basin, and
as a graphic record of the successful achievement of a great public enterprise, the
book makes a wide appeal. FRANK BRANCH RILEY.
LANCASTER, SAMUEL CHRISTOPHER. The Columbia — Americas Greatest Highway Through the
Cascade Mountains to the Sea. 1916. Lancaster. Portland. $2.50.
,.T , j. ., This is a most excellent guidebook to the Pacific-
Northwest. It covers Oregon, Washington, northern
Idaho, Glacier National Park, British Columbia, and Alberta. General descriptions
of the country are given, interspersed here and there with interesting bits of history
and legend. Accurate information concerning transportation, routes, customs,
motor roads and steam ship lines, hotels, and festivals is included. The opportuni-
ties for hunting, fishing, mountaineering and other sports are outlined. The book
is well written, contains good illustrations, several maps and an index, and should
prove most valuable to any one traveling in the Northwest. B. F. M.
WOOD. RUTH KEDZIE. Tourist's Northwest. 1916. Dodd. $1.75.
(Supplied by the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America.)
... This is a collection of essays from well known English authors such
^ ., as Stevenson, Hazlitt, Symonds, Ruskin, Steele, and Bacon. It is
filled with the spirit of the outdoors world and should prove a most
welcome addition to the small books for the camper. B. F. M.
GooDCHiLD, GEORGE. ED. Lore of the Wanderer: An Open-air Arihology. Dent. Is.
Book Reviews 109
..D A most readable and friendly account by F. S. Salisbury of
rvAMBLES IN THE •_. . . /• jiii i« 1
., . ,, his impressions of many extended and pleasant walks through
the Vaud Canton of Switzerland.
The author describes most charmingly, and with authority, the flora and the
tree-life of the region. The book is, in fact, a popular botanical guide.
In the description of the vast alpine scenes, Mr. Salisbury colors his word-
pictures with an intimacy and sympathy and simplicity which constitute by no
means the least delightful feature of his book. LOTTE B. RILEY.
SALISBURY, F. S. Rambles in the Vaudese Alps. 1916. Dutton. $1.00.
(Supplied by the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America.)
..,,, . This is a series of lectures delivered before the Forestry school
p r ..of Yale University in 1914. It supplements Dr. Hornaday's
work, "Our Vanishing Wild Life," and tells what, in his opinion,
is the conservation remedy.
Graphically he pictures the destruction of wild life that is taking place. This,
he asserts, is due in a major number of cases to liberal state laws and lack of any
uniform national law. In the remaining cases it is carried on in the utter absence
of any preventive laws.
Dr. Hornaday regards the Weeks-McLean bill as the most important legal
step yet taken towards conservation. This act, passed by Congress in 1913, pro-
vides for governmental protection of migratory birds.
He says: "It is the most potent and far-reaching measure ever enacted for the
protection of our native birds, and any occurrence that would impair or destroy
its usefulness would be a national and continental calamity."
Again he says: "The law is necessary because of the utter inability of more
than one-half of our states to protect their migratory birds by state law." In
fifteen states, it is asserted, authorities have sullenly resisted appeals for legisla-
tion that would stop the slaughter. "The federal law," says Dr. Hornaday, "termi-
nates that situation permanently."
Speaking of conservation movements, he points out as an instance, the fact
that Glacier National Park, being a game refuge, probably saves for future genera-
tions, the mountain goat, which was otherwise threatened with extinction. Con-
siderable attention is given to the detailed study of the economic value of birds.
The author shows the value of these birds in the destruction of injurious insects.
He is not opposed to hunting, but his protests are to save species of wild life that
are being exterminated.
One chapter is devoted to a discussion of animal and bird pests that prey on
other forms of wild life. Means of destroying this predatory life are given. In
his final chapter he sets forth the duty of the public in the great conservation move-
ment.
Frederic C. Walcott, in a subsequent chapter, gives a history of the develop-
ment of game preserves, and shows the value of this means of artificial propagation.
He summarizes in detail, artificial propagation and other protective movements now
being carried out in this country and Canada. A bibliography of recent works on
game concludes the book. FLORENCE J. McNEiL.
HORNADAY. WILLIAM T. Wild Life Conservation. 1914. Yale University Press. $1.50.
110 Book Reviews
That Glacier National Park, which has been
BLACKFEET TALES OF GLACIER , , r ,
a national park for only a few years, is rapidly
becoming a popular playground, is shown not
only by the greatly increased number of tourists who visit it each year, but also by
the number and variety of books and magazines articles which have recently been
published regarding it.
The Blackfeet Tales are written by an adopted member of the Indian tribe
bearing that name, who married one of their girls, and for years lived with them as
an Indian. There are stories of great chiefs and brave warriors and beautiful
Indian maidens; and weird and fantastic tales of their gods, as told the author by his
friends of the tribe when gathered about the lodge fire, while the pipe was going the
rounds. There are legends of many of the lakes and streams and falls in the Park;
and interwoven with all, the author's own adventures and old-time experiences.
Last of all, the book contains an earnest plea for the preservation of the old
Indian names, for which so many times meaningless substitutes are found on the
maps. MARTHA OLGA GOLDAPP.
SCHULTZ, JAMES WILLARD. Blackfeet Tales of Glacier National Park. 1916. Houghton. $2.00.
(Supplied by the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America.)
Do ear^y explorations of the Oregon country in the search for
the Northwest Passage, and the subsequent establishment
of trading posts aroused much interest in the vast region of
western America. The Royal Horticultural Society of London desired to learn about
the flora of this new land, so in 1823 they sent David Douglas, a young Scotch
botanist, to make a study of the plants of North America. On the first trip, made dur-
ing the summer and autumn of 1823, he visited only the eastern coast. He collected
a large number of American oaks, and a list of these with descriptions is published
in this volume. The following year Douglas sailed to the western coast and began
his work along the Columbia river and its tributaries. During the latter part of
the expedition he went to California.
This diary is a most readable one, describing in quaint detail the many experi-
ences he had, the people whom he met, the customs of the Indians, the flora and
fauna he found, as well as conditions of weather. Descriptions of pines are given,
a list of the plants introduced by David Douglas, and an account of his tragic death
in the Sandwich Islands in 1834. The book will prove as interesting to the student
of history as to the person desiring scientific information. B. F. M.
DOUGLAS. DAVID: Journal Kept by David Douglas During his Travels in North America. 1823-27,
together with a particular description of thirty-three species of pines. 1914. London, William Wesley
and Son. $5.04.
.._, Mary Roberts Rinehart has written a most interesting
THROUGH GLACIER „ .
p „ account of a horseback trip through Glacier Park.
So graphically does she tell it, that she takes you along
with her. You experience all the thrills of the real trip as you read, the excitement
of preparation, the picturesque outfit, and the departure. You meet the leader
of the party, Howard Eaton, "a sportsman and a splendid gentleman." You note
the change, a few minutes down the trail, from civilization to the Great Wilds —
follow the winding trails down, up, under and around — feel the peacefulness and
grandeur of the mountains, valleys, streams, trees and flowers — learn the traits of
the saddle and pack-horses — hold your breath as you read of her trip on the pack-
Book Reviews 1 1 1
horse that always walked on the edge of the precipice with two legs usually dangling
over.
Her definition of a mountain pass is truly a refreshing one: "A pass is a blood-
curdling spot up which one's horse climbs like a goat and down the other side of
which it slides as you lead it, tramping ever and anon on a tender part of your foot.
A pass is the highest place between two peaks. A pass is not an opening, but a
barrier which you climb with chills and descend with a prayer. A pass is a thing
which you try to forget at the time and you boast about when you get back home."
She observes the change in the party a few days out: the joy of doing appeals more
strongly; utter disregard is paid to complexion and sore muscles; there is eager-
ness to press on in any weather, over trails so mired that the horses literally fight
their way through; and exultant feeling is displayed as the pa'ty stands on the
Triple Divide from which water flows into the Gulf of Mexico, the Pacific Ocean,
and Hudson Bay. She tells of the animals of the Park, the beaver, deer, elk, lion,
coyote and bear. The visit to the garbage dump to see the bears was amusing until
a grizzly "the exact size of a seven passenger automobile with a limousine top and
same rate of speed," was about to give his attention to the unarmed visitors, after
putting the hound and black bears to rout. As a climax, she describes a fishing trip
down the Flathead Rapids and the pride with which she takes her catch aboard
the train and gives orders for packing and later cooking.
Incidentally the author decries the treatment of the Flathead Indians, speaking
particularly of the negligence of the government in making needed improvements
and furnishing an adequate number of rangers. She also gives a little information
about hotels, guides and horseback rates.
Altogether it is a delightful little book that may be read easily in an evening.
ALICE BANFIELD.
RINEHART, MARY ROBERTS. Through Glacier Park. 1916. Houghton. $0.75.
(Supplied by the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America.)
This portfolio consists of pamphlets describing nine of the
NATIONAL PARKS . -11 T-U -r n
p ,, largest national parks. Iney are beautifully illustrated and
contain short descriptions and brief legendary notes of the
parks. This portfolio should do much to interest the people of the country in the
nation's delightful playgrounds. B. F. M.
U. S. INTERIOR DEPT. National Parks Port/olio. 1916. Scribner.
This work is a revised edition of the Book of Camping
BOOK OF CAMPING , ,,, , . ,, . . ... , , . .„„,
,, T ,, and Woodcraft which was published in 1906, containing
AND WOODCRAFT. , .
much new material. It is intended to meet the needs of
the outdoor enthusiast who goes to accessible camping places as well as those of the
camper who travels light. Careful details in regard to clothing, camp equipment
and camp making are given. Chapters are devoted to tested provision lists and
camp cookery. It is a very valuable encyclopedia of information for anyone living
in the wilds. The second volume which is soon to be issued will be eagerly received.
B. F. M.
KEPHART, HORACE. Camping and Woodcraft. Vol. 1. 1916. Outing Pub. Co. $1.50.
(Supplied by the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America.)
112 Book Reviews
This is Roosevelt's account of his zoo-geographic
THROUGH THE BRAZILIAN
reconnoissance through Brazil. This trip was orisi-
WlLDERNESS. _,
nally inaugurated as a lecture tour through Argentina
and Brazil, upon invitation of the governments of these countries. After making
arrangements for this trip the author decided that instead of returning around South
America by boat he would come north through the interior of Brazil and into the
basin of the Amazon. He notified the Museum of Natural History of New York
City of his intentions and they gladly took advantage of the opportunity to send
with his expedition several naturalists who were to collect specimens of this region.
On reaching Rio de Janeiro the Minister of Foreign Affairs of Brazil authorized the
geographic features of the expedition and sent a native Colonel of the Governmental
Service to accompany him for the purpose of mapping and exploring the little
known Matto Grosso or highland wilderness of Brazil, and a river in the locality
whose course and location had been but vaguely determined, giving them the official
title of the Roosevelt-Rondon Scientific Expedition.
Their route was in a northerly direction from Buenos Aires, up the Paraguay
River to the head of navigation, across the high interior wilderness by pack train,
and down the course of the Rio Duvida. This trip was started December 9, 1913.
The naturalists of the party found numerous specimens. The author shows his
familiarity with tropical natural history in his descriptions, makes comparisons of
various birds and mammals with those of Africa and our own country. His literary
style is narrative and conversational and his subject matter is excellently arranged
and complete in detail, an added interest being given by occasional abrupt termi-
nations of certain phases of his subject with transitions to others more or less re-
lated.
The most important and most dangerous portion of his trip was that of exploring
the "River of Doubt." The line of the Brazilian Telegraph Commission crossed
this stream near its source but its course from there was doubtful. About two
months was consumed by this trip, all possible varieties of hardships. being encoun-
tered. Many days were spent in portaging around dangerous rapids, and in building
dugout canoes to replace those lost from time to time. All manner of pests had to be
contended with and, though there are few large animals in South America that
man should fear, the smaller creatures are often dangerous and difficult to deal
with, some of the most common being the Piranha, a carnivorous fish of only a
few pounds weight, and ants that will attack and devour large animals or man.
After following this stream down for a distance of about one hundred and ninety
miles they found it to be identical with a river known locally as the Aripuanan, a
large affluent of the Madeira and indirectly of the Amazon, but as to its character
above the head of navigation nothing had hitherto been known. The expedition
thus established the connection and identity of the different parts of the stream and
at the same time collected other valuable geographical data, in recognition of which
the Brazilian Government gave the river the official title of Rio Teodoro. The party
reached the Amazon and disbanded early in May, 1914, having taken five months
for the trip.
The book is completely indexed as to subjects touched upon and besides, con-
tains appendices with details of equipment and commissary, and notes on the work
of field zoologists and geographers in South America.
C. V. LUTHER.
ROOSEVELT. THEODORE. Through the Brazilian Wilderness. 1914. Scribner. $3.50.
Book Reviews 1 1 3
^ This book has been supplied to the club by the Bureau of
ALASKAN GLACIER .
c ,, Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America. It was
reviewed by a member of the organization in the 1915 issue
of Mazama.
TARR, RALPH STOCKMAN & MARTIN, LAWRENCE. Alaskan Glacier Studies of the Nationa
Geographic Society in the Yakutat Bay, Prince William Sound and Lower Copper River Regions. Ill
1914. National Geographic Society. $5.00.
..-, . ,, This is a very enjoyable little book of ten chapters, dealing with
the Alps from the combined point of view of the mountaineer and
the man of letters.
To us, surrounded as we are by mountains whose historical associations, aside
from the Indian legends, are the scantiest, it is pleasing to have recalled the mo-
mentous incursion of Hannibal into the Alps, where his elephants "were ever readie
to run upon their noses"; and we reverence the eternal snows more keenly after
refreshing our memory with the story of the world and its making and realizing anew
how much the lofty summits of the Alps had to do with the European march of pro-
gress.
Following the general discussion of pioneering in the Alps, several individual
peaks, including Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn, command our
attention as their dramatic stories unfold. We run in perusal the entire gamut of
emotions, from amusement at the droll picture of Aggasiz in his mountain hut to
horror at the grim tragedy that followed close upon the heels of the first victory of
the Matterhorn.
In the closing chapters, which treat of Modern Mountaineering and The Alps
in Literature, the author takes occasion to extol the joys of ski-jumping and to treat
of the various advantages of climbing with and without guides; ending his little
volume very happily with a tribute to the rich gifts to literature that the Alps have
made, are making, and will continue to make until the appreciative human soul
needs no longer to strive for verbal expression. BEATRICE YOUNG.
LUNN, ARNOLD. Exploration of the Alps. 1914. Holt. $0.50.
..^r ,. „ Mountain making, the foot hills, uplands, glaciers, and other
1 HE 1V1OUNTAIN. , . . ,r ,, ,,
phases of mountains are treated scientifically as well as popu-
larly in Mr. Van Dyke's book. Not only is the result of his serious study of moun-
tain masses given, but there are also vivid descriptions of the hills and mountains
in their many aspects, together with an historic word pageant of the passing of the
Indian and the encroachment of the pioneer upon his wild domain. Ruskin's well-
known mountain passages are quoted — and also criticized from a scientific stand-
point.
He sounds a needed warning to mountaineers when he says: "The average
ascent-maker seems to have better legs than eyes. He sees little save the man ahead
of him He is doing a stunt — not seeing a vision. People like John Muir and Leslie
Stephen are rare in mountain literature."
Many people will agree with him also when he writes: "The mountain ranges
have not ceased to be a source of mystery. Again and again, as we ride away, we
turn in the saddle to look at their massive forms against the sky. They keep
drawing us with a new look and an old lure. They are not paintable, they are not
habitable, they are not wholly understandable, but, perhaps, for that very reason,
they are wonderful. May they always remain so!" M. C. H.
VAN DYKE. JOHN C. The Mountain. 1916. Scribner. $1.25.
The Mazamas
Any person of good character who has climbed to the summit of a snow peak on
which there is at least one living glacier and the top of which cannot be reached by any
other means than on foot is eligible for membership in the society; the annual dues are
$3.00. Following is a list of members of the Mazamas:
ABEL, A. H., 502 Worcester Bldg.
ABISHER, Marie, 335 14th St.
ACTON. HARRY W., 519 West 121st St. N. Y.
ACTON. MRS. HARRY W.. 519 West 121st St..
New York.
ADAM. RICHARD. 344>£ Alder St.
ADAMS, LORING K., 730 Chamber of Com-
merce.
ADAMS. W. CLAUDE. 1010 E. 28th St. N.
AITCHISON. CLYDE B.. Court House.
AIKIN, OTIS F., 919 Corbett Bldg.
ALLEN, ARTHUR A., Care of Portland Rowing
Club.
ALMY. E. LOUISA. Care of H. L. Johnson.
Glendive, Mont.
AMOS. DR. WM. F.. 1016 Selling Bldg.
ANDERSON. DR. FREDERICK, Orenco. Ore.
ANDERSON. LEROY E., 213 Northwestern Bank
Bldg.
ANDERSON. Louis F., 364 Boyer Ave., Walla
Walla. Wash.
APPLEGATE, ELMER I., Klamath Falls, Ore.
ATKINSON, R. H.. City Pass. Agt. O.-W. R. &
ATLAS. CHAS. E.. 423 City Hall.
ATWELL. F. C., Mai lory Hotel.
AVERILL, MARTHA M., 1 144 Hawthorne Ave.
AYER. R. W.. 131 E. 19th St.
BABB. HAROLD S., 578 Miller St.
BACKUS; LQUISE, 675 E. Alder St.
BACKUS, MINNA, 675 E. Alder St.
BAGLEY. FRANK H.. Care of Lumbermens Bank:
BAILEY, VERNON, 1834 Kalorama Ave.. Wash-
ington, D. C.
BALLOU. O. B.. 80 Broadway.
BANFIELD. ALICE. 570 East Ash St.
BARCK. Dr. C., Humboldt Bldg.. St. Louis. Mo.
BARNES. CHAS. A.. JR.. Box 636 Tacoma.
Wash.
BATES, MYRTLE. 448 E. 7th St.
BEACH. LEE N., 731 East Ash St.
BEATTIE, BYRON J.. 830 Rodney Ave.
BENEFIEL. FRANCIS W.. 750 E. Ankeny St.
BENEFIEL, JOHN W.. 1 10 East 20th St.
BENEFIEL, WILSON, 110 East 20th St.
BENSON. B. M.. 20 Washington Bldg.
BENZ. CHAS. A., 441 Eleventh St.
BERNARD. W. R.. 213 N. W. Bank Bldg.
BLACK. W. J. Lumbermens Bank.
BLAKNEY. C. E., Milwauk'e: Ore.
BLUE. WALTER, 1306 E. 32nd St. N.
BODLEY. R. M.. 4519 Powell Valley Rd.
BODWAY. W. P., General Delivery.
BORNT, LULU ADELE. 641 E. 13th St.
BOWERS. NATHAN A., 501 Rialto Bldg.. S. F.
BOWIE. ANNA, 297 E. 35th St.
BOYCE. EDWARD, 207 St. Clair St
BREWSTER, WM. L., 808 Lovejoy St.
BRONAUGH. GEORGE, 355 Hall St.
BRONAUGH, JERRY ENGLAND. Title & Trust
Bldg.
BROWN. G. T.. 500 East Morrison St.
BRUCE. ROBERT C., 729 7th St., New York City.
BULLIVANT. ANNA, 269 Thirteenth St.
BULLIVANT, E. H.. 269 Thirteenth St.
BUSH. J. C.. 88^ Grand Ave.
CALHOUN, MRS. HARRIET S., 369 E. 34th St.
CAMPBELL. DAVID, 404 Boyer Ave.. Walla
Walla, Wash.
CAMPBELL. JOHN C.. 518 E. 38th St. N.
CAMPBELL.P.L.,117013thAve..E..Eugene.Ore
CASE. GEORGENE M.. 302 12th St.
CATTERLIN, LLOYD L., 762 Hancock St.
CECIL, K. P., 429 Beck Bldg.
CHENOWETH, MAY, 104 E. 24th St. N.
CHRISTIANSON. WM. D., 134 Colborne St.,
Brantford, Ontario, Canada.
CHURCH, WALTER E., Eugene, Ore.
CHURCHILL, ARTHUR M., 1229 Northwestern
Bank Bldg.
CLARK, C. M., 213 N. 23rd St
CLARK, E. A., 1381 E. 17th St.
CLARK, F. N., 1108 Westover Road.
CLARK, J. HOMER, 706 Glisan St.
CLARKE, D. D., Care of Water Board Office,
City Hall.
CLARY, RALSTON J., Cor. Killingsworth &
Albina Aves.
COALMAN, ELIJAH, Sandy, Ore.
COCHRAN, HARRISQN H., 3424 Pillsbury Ave.,
Minneapolis.
COLBORN, MRS. Lois B., 383 Summer St..
Buffalo. N. Y.
COLLAMORE, MARY ERNA, Care of North Pa-
cific College, E. 6th & Oregon Sts.
COLLINS, W. G.. 510 32nd Ave. S., Seattle.
Wash.
COLVILLE, PROF. F. V., Dept. of Agriculture.
Washington, D. C.
CONNELL, DR. E. DeWiTT. 628 Salmon St. or
Selling Bldg.
CONWAY D. J ., 4705 60th, S E.
CONWAY, T. RAYMOND, 4705 60th, S. E.
COOK, Arthur, 243 W. Park St.
COOK, COURTNEY C., 1220 Spalding Bldg.
COURSEN, EDGAR E., 658 Lovejoy St.
COURSEN, GERALDINE R., 658 Lovejoy St.
COWIE, LILLIAN G.. Wellesley Court, 15th &
Belmont.
COWPERTWAITHE. JULIA F., Station "E."
CRANER, HENRY C., Room 214, M. A. A. C.
CREIGHTON. LOLA I.. 920 East Everett St.
CROSS, HARVEY E.. Oregon City, Ore.
GROUT. NELLE C., 1250 Hancock St.
CURRIER, GEO. H., Leona, Ore.
CURTIS, EDWARD S., 614 Second Ave.. Seattle.
Wash.
DALCOUR, NELLIE MAE Karl Hotel.
DAVIDSON, PROF. GEO.. San Francisco. Cal.
DAVIDSON. R. J.. 458 E. 49th St. N.
DAY. BESSIE, 690 Olive St., Eugene. Ore.
DEKUM, ADOLPH A., Ill 6th St.
DILLER. PROF. Jos. S., U. S. Geological Sur-
vey. Washington. D. C.
DILLINGER, ANNA C., 121 E. 1 1th St.
DILLINGER, MRS. C. E., 121 E. llth St.
DONAHUE. TYRRELL E., 5004 33rd Ave.. S. E.
DORFMAN, ANNA. 233 10th St.
DRAKE. J. FRANCIS, Pittock Block.
DUFFY, MARGARET C., 467 E. 12th St.
EARLEY. GEO. C.. 370^ 13th St.
EDWARDS, J. G., Agt. N. P. Ry., Vancouver.
Wash. '
EGGERSGLUESS. ERNEST. 170 llth St.
ELLIS, EDITH, Salisbury Apt. 244 Sandy Road.
ELLIS. PEARL. Salisbury Apt.. 244 Sandy Road.
ELLISON, JAMES H.. 875 Haight Ave.
EMMONS. A. C.. 1474 Yeon Bldg.
ENGLISH. NELSON. 267 Hazel Fern St.
ESTES. MARGARET P., 1063 E. Washington St.
EVANS, WM. W.. 744 Montgomery Drive.
EVERSON. F. L.. 361 Tenth St.
EWELL, ELAINE. 608 E. Taylor St.
Membership
115
FABER. GERTRUDE F., 1904 East Washington
St.
FALLMAN, MRS. N. A., 151 Park St.
FARRELL. ROBT. S., 140 Front St.
FARRELL, THOS. G., 328 E. 25th St.
FELLOWS, LESTER O., 4319 74th St.
FILLOON, RAY M., Troutlake, Wash.
FINLEY. WM. L.. 651 E. Madison St.
FITCH, R. LOUISE, Eugene, Ore.
FLEMMING, Miss M. A., 214 Post Office Build
ing.
FLESHER. Nathan, Carson, Wash.
FORD, G. L.. 309 Stark St.. or 1 101 E. 19th. N.
FORMAN, W. P., Y. M. C. A.
FORSYTH. MRS. C. E., Wolf Creek, Ore.
FOSTER. FORREST LLOYD, 354 49th St. S. E..
City.
FRAINE, CORA D.. 335 14th St.
FRANCK, ALBERT C., Box 136, San Diego, Cal.
FRAMING, ELEANOR, 549 N. Broad St.. Gales-
burg, 111.
FREEMAN, D. C., 112 E llth St.
FREEMAN. ETHEL, 423 Irving Ave., Chicago.
FRIES, SAMUEL M., 641 Flanders St.
FUHRER, HANS, Rowe, Ore.
FULLER, MARGARET E.. 409 16th St.
GAINES, J. E.. 482 Skidmore.
GALUSHA, ORA W.. 30 Hillcrest Parkway, Win-
chester, Mass.
GARRETT, GEO., 646 Cypress St.
GASCH, MARTHA M. 9 E. 15th St. N.
GEBALLE, PAULINE, 782 E. Yamhill St.
GEHR, HARRITT B.< North Powder, Ore.
GEORGE, MRS. MARY E., 616 Market Drive.
GEORGE, MELVIN C., 616 Market Drive.
GETZ, FLORENCE I., 1016 Clackamas St.
GILE, Miss E. E., 770 Flanders St.
GILL, MARK, Care of J. K. Gill Co.
GILMOUR, W. A., Title & Trust Bldg.
GLASCOCK, W. V., 115 N. 23rd St.
GLISAN, RODNEY L., 612 Spalding Bldg.
GLOVER, TRUMAN J., Fairview. Ore.
GODDARD, E. C., 491 Mill St.
GOLDAPP, MARTHA OLGA, 455 East 12th St.
GOLDRAINIER, ADELE, 22 W. Jessup Street.
GORMAN, M. W., Forestry Bldg.
GOULD, JOSEPH L., 312 City Hall.
GRAVES. HENRY S., U. S. Forestry Service.
Wash.. D. C.
GRAY, R. W., 724 Y. M. C. A.
GREELEY, GEN'L. A. W., Washington, D. C.
GRIFFIN, MARGARET A., 303 Title & Trust
Bldg.
GRIFFITH, B. W., 1736 Kane St.. Los Angeles,
Cal.
GUERNE, CHAS. A., Athena, Ore.
HAFFENDEN, A. H. S., 4236 49th Ave., S. E.
HALAS. DR. JAN V., 67 Front St.
HARDESTY, WM. P.. 60 E. 31st St. City, or 418
City Hall.
HARNDEN, EDWARD W., 1617 Barristers Hall,
Boston, Mass.
HARNOIS, PEARLE E.. 1278 Williams Ave.
HARRIS, CHARLOTTE M.. 1195 E. 29th, N.
HARZA, L. F., Great Lakes Power Co., Ltd..
Sault Ste. Marie, Ont.
HATHAWAY, WARREN G., 1288 Rodney Ave.
HAWKINS, E. R., 655 Everett St.
HEATH, MINNIE R., 665 Everett St.
HENDERSON, G. P.. 1 135 E. Taylor. St.
HENDRICKSON, J . HUNT, 21 1 North 24th St.
HENRY, E. G.. 488 N. 24th St.
HENTHORNE. MARY C., Library Assn., 10th
and Yamhill Sts.
HERMANN, HELEN M., 965 Kirby St.
HEYER, Jr., A. L., 253 6th St. or Pacific Power
& Light Co., 1220 Spalding Bldg.
HIBBARD, WAYNE E., PocateTlo, Idaho.
HIGH, AUGUSTUS, 300 N. 13th St.. Vancouver,
Wash.
HILD, F. W.. Denver Tramway Co., Denver.
Colo.
HILTON, FRANK H., 502 Fenton Bids.
HIMES, GEO. H., Turney Blk., 2nd & Taylor Sts.
HINE, ANDREW RANDLETT. 955 East Taylor
St.
HITCH, ROBERT E.. 602 Fenton Bldg.
HODGSON. C. W., Rockland Ave., Park Hill,
Yonkers, N. Y.
HOFF, MAGDA M.. North High School. Minne
apolis, Minn.
HOGAN. CLARENCE. 591 Borthwick St.
HOLMAN, F. C., 558 Lincoln Ave.. Palo Alto,
Cal.
HOLT. C. R., 216 Failing Bldg.
HOLT, WALTER H., 586 East Davis St.
HORN, C. L., The Wheeldon Annex.
HOWARD, ERNEST E., 1012 Baltimore Ave.,
Kansas City. Mo.
HUDSON, WM. MAURICE, 637-9 Pittock Block.
IVANAKEFF, PASHA, 246 Clackamas St.
JAEGER. E.J., 135 6th St.
JAEGER. J. P., 135 6th St.
JENNINGS, E. C., Milwaukie, Ore.
JOHNSON. CARRIER. H., 971 Hillsdale Ave.
JOHNSON, H. G., 618 Nicolet St., Minneapolis,
Minn.
JOHNSON, MARY VIRGINIA. Box 296, Hood
River, Ore.
JONES, FRANK I., 307 Davis St.
JONES, THOS. R., 226 So. C. St., Arkansas City,
Kans.
JOYCE, ALICE V., 595 Lovejoy St.
KACH, F. G., 369 E. 7th St. N.
KARNOPP, J. L., Ry. Exchange Bldg.
KEITH. E. GRACE, 810 Corbett Bldg.
KENDALL, ARTHUR C., Hotel Arthur.
KERR, D. M. G., Canadian Bank of Commerce,
Keremeos, B. C.
KERR. Dr. D. T.. 556 Morgan Bldg.
KETCHUM, VERNE L.. 705 Y. M. C. A.
KNAPP, MARY L.. 656 Flanders St.
KOERNER. BERTHA, 481 E. 45th St., N.
KREBS, H. M., Washougal, Wash.
KUNKEL, HARRIET. 405 Larch St.
KUNKEL, KATHERINE, 33 IK Montgomery St.
LADD, HENRY A.. Care of Ladd & Tilton Bank.
LADD, W. M., Care of Ladd & Tilton Bank.
LANGLEY, MANCHE IRENE, Forest Grove, Ore.
LARSON, EDWARD G., Buena Vista Apts.
LAWFFER, G. A.. 309 Stark St.
LAWSON, AGNES G., 767 Montgomery Drive.
LEACH, JOHN R., 4719 72nd St.
LEACH, MRS. JOHN R., 4719 72nd St.
LEADBETTER, F. W., 795 Park Avenue.
LEBB. DAVID, 502 Corbett Bldg.
LEE, JOHN A., Concord Bldg.
LEPPICH, ELSA. 611 Corbett Bldg.
LETZ, JACQUES, Care of Scandinavian-Ameri-
can Bank.
LIND, ARTHUR. Care of U. S. National Bank.
LOUCKS, ETHEL MAE. 466 East 8th St.
LUESING, THEO. N., 595 E. Pine St.
LUETTERS. F. P., 131 E. 19th St.
LUND, WALTER, 191 GRAND Ave.. N
LUTHER, C. V., E. 34th & Belmont Sts.
MCARTHUR, LEWIS A., 561 Hawthorne Ter-
race.
MCBRIDE, AGNES, 1764 E. Yamhill St.
MCCLELLAND, ELIZABETH, 323 E. 12th St. N.
MCCLURE, OLGA, 407 E. 50th St. N.
McCoLLOM, DR. JOHN W., 556 Morgan Bldg.
McCRAY. ELMER, 328 Pine St.
MCCREADY. SUE, 512 U. S. National Bank
Bldg.. Vancouver, Wash.
McCuLLOCH. CHARLES E., 1410 Yeon Bldg.
MCDANIEL, ADRIENNE, 874 Laura Ave.
McDANiEL, IDA. 784 Laura Ave.
MCDONALD, LAURA H., 354 E. 49th St
MclsAAC, R. J., Parkdale, Ore.
MCLAUGHLIN, JESSIE A., 648 Patton Road.
MCLENNAN, MARGARET, Box 324, Honolulu,
T. H.
McLEOD. R. L..468 E. 37th St.
McNEiL, FRED H., Care of The "Journal".
McNEiL, FLORENCE J., 607 Orange St.
MACKENZIE, WM. R., 1002 Wilcox Bldg.
MALLAHAN, CLO,. Y. M C. A.
116
Membership
MANNERS. C. H., Underwood, Wash.
MARBLE. W. B., 3147 Indiana Ave., Chicago,
111.
MARKHAM. B. C., 343^ Washington St.
MARSH. J . WHEELOCK. Banks, Ore.
MARSHALL, BERTHA, Station A, Vancouver.
Wash.
MARTIN. I. C.. 524 East 51st St. North.
MARTIN. MRS. I. C. 524 East 51st St., N.
MASON. J. M., R. F. D.. No. 2. Milwaukie, Ore.
MATHIS, C. J.. 149 Sixth St.
MEARS, HENRY T., 494 Northrup St.
MEARS. S. M., 721 Flanders St.
MEREDITH, JOHN D.. 329 Washington St.
MERRIAM. DR. C. HART, 1919 16th St. N. W
Wash., D. C.
MERTEN. CHAS. J.. 307 Davis St.
METCALF, ALICE K., 531 E. Couch St.
METCALF. EDNA, 531 E. Couch St.
METCALF. GERTRUDE, 680 East Madison St.
MILLS. S.. American Power & Light Co., 71
Broadway, N. Y.
MILLAIS. MRS. ADA M. RICE, 415 10th St.
MILLAIS, JAMES A., 415 10th St.
MILLER. BEULAH F., 629 East Ash St.
MILLER. JESSE, 726 E. 20th St.
MILLER, MAUDE ETHLYN, 767-1 5, Eugene. Ore.
MILLS, ENOS A., Longs Peak, Estes Park, Colo.
MONROE. HARRIETT E.. 1431 East Salmon St.
MONTAG, JOHN W., 883 Commercial St.
MONTAGUE. JACK R.. 1310 Yeon Bldg.
MONTAGUE, RICHARD W., 1310 Yeon Bldg.
MOORE, EDITH. 547M Sixth St.
MORGAN, MRS. C. N., Box 144, Palms, Cal.
MORKILL, ALAN BROOKS, Canadian Bank of
Commerce, Victoria, B. C.
MUNGER. A. R., 28th & Washington Sts., Van-
couver. Wash.
MYERS, EARL, Sunnyside, Wash.
NELSON. L. A., 410 Beck Bldg.
NEWELL. BEN W., Care of Ladd & Tilton Bank.
NEWLIN, HAROLD V.. 202 Fenton Bldg.
NEWTON, JOSEPHINE, 1350 Pine St., Phila-
delphia, Pa.
NICHOLS, DR. HERBERT S., 802 Corbett Bldg.
NICKELL. ANNA. 304 College St.
NILSSON, MARTHA E., 320 E. 1 1th St. N.
NISSEN, IRENE, 969 E. 23rd St. N.
NORDEEN. EDITH. 361 Graham St.
NORMAN, M. OSCAR. 499 E. 9th St. N.
NORTHUP. H. H., 599 Elizabeth St.
NOTTINGHAM. JESSIE RAY. 271 E. 16th St. N.
NUNAN, CINITA, 489 W. Park St.
O'BRYAN. HARVEY, McKay Bldg.
O'NEILL. MARK. Worcester Bldg.
OGLESBY. ETTA M., Baron Apt. 14th & Col-
umbia Sts.
ORMANDY, HARRY W., 501 Weidler St.
ORMANDY. JAMES A., 501 Weidler St.
OTIS. MADGE I.. 724 Cascade Ave.. Hood River.
Ore.
PARKER. ALFRED F.. 374 E. 51st St.
PARSONS, MRS. E. T., Mosswood Rd.. Univ.
Hill. Berkeley. Cal.
PASTORIZA. HUGH, Technology Club of N. Y.,
No. 17 Grammarcy Park.
PATTERSON, NEVA, 876 Gantenbein Ave.
PATTULLO, A. S., 500 Concord Bldg.
PAUER. JOHN. 485 East 20th St. N.
PAYTON, PERLEE. G.. 3916-64th St. S. E.
PEASLEE, W. D.. 125 East llth St.
PENWELL. ESTHER, 72 East 82nd St. S.
PETERSON, ARTHUR S.. 780 Williams Ave.
PETERSON. E. F.. 780 Williams Ave.
PETERSON. LAURA. H.. 309 College St.
PFAENDER, FREDA, 171 E. 29th St. W.
PHILLIPS, MABEL. 335 14th St.
PILKINGTON, THOS. J., R. D. 2. Sebastapol.
Cal.
PITTOCK. H. L., 812 Overton St., Imperial
Heights.
PLUMMER. AGNES. 3rd & Madison Sts.
PORTER, FANNIE G., 1010 Jackson St., Oregon
City. Ore.
POWELL, MARY, E., 1330 E. Taylor St
POWERS. PAUL B., 502 Spalding Bldg.
PREVOST, FLORENCE, East Broadway Bet. 8th
& 9th St.
PRIDEMORE, L. F., Government Camp, Rowe,
Ore.
RAUCH. G. L., 510 Yeon Bldg.
REA, R. W.. 403 E. 16th St.
REED, ROSE COURSEN, 208 Eilers Bldg.
REESE, LELA, Hot Springs Hotel, Stevenson,
Wash.
REID, PROF. HARRY FIELDING, Johns Hopkins
University, Baltimore, Maryland.
REIST, LINN LANDIS, 600 Chamber of Com-
merce.
RICHARDSON, JEAN, 888 E. Washington St.
RICHARDSON, NETTIE G., 888 E.Washington St.
RICE, EDWIN L., 1191 E. Yamhill St.
RIDDELL. GEO. X., Hotel Frye, Seattle, Wash.
RIDDELL, H. H., Yeon Bldg., City.
RIDDELL, MORSE, Care of H. H. Riddell, Yeon
Bldg.
RIKER, DR LEAH S.. 1020K Belmont St.
RILEY, FRANK BRANCH, Chamber of Com-
merce Bldg.
RILEY, LAURA, Madison Park Apartments.
RILEY, LOTTE BRAND, 61 Lucretia St.
RISELING, R. F., 776 E. Yamhill St.
ROBERTS, ARTHUR L., 609 Selling Bldg.
ROBERTS, ELLA PRISCILLA, 109 E. 48th St.
ROBINSON, EARL C., 658 Morgan Bldg.
ROBINSON, Lloyd, 683 E. Burnside.
ROBLIN, C. W., 40 No. 9th St.
ROEMCHILD, MRS. OTTO R., 211 Miller St.
Knoxville. Pittsburgh, Pa.
ROGERS, HOMER A., Pardkale. Ore.
ROOSEVELT, THEODORE, Oyster Bay, N. Y.
ROOT. MRS. E. T., 405 Henry Bldg.
ROSENKRANS, F. A., 335 E. 21st St. N.
Ross, RHODA, 1516 E. Oak St.
Ross, WILLIS W.. 494 Yamhill St.
ROUTLEDGE. FRED A.. 159 67th St. N.
ROYAL, OSMON, 735 Y. M. C. A.
RUCKER, WILLARD, 681 E. Ash St.
RUSTIN, MARIE, Dwand Hospital, Pekin,
China.
SAMMONS, E. C., 69 E. 18th St.
SAMMONS, RETA, 69 E. 18th St.
SAMMONS, ALDON, Century Club, 7 West 43rd,
New York City.
SCHLIESKE, LOUISE, 818 Clackamas St.
SCHMIDT, LUCIE C., 667 Everett.
SCHNEIDER, MARION, 260 Hamilton Ave.
SCHUYLER, JAMES T., 655 Kearney St.
SCOTT, ELSIE, 1565 Knowles.
SEARCY, ROBT. D.. 1334 Northwestern Bank
Bldg.
SHARP, J. C., 785K E. Main St.
SHARP, MRS. J. C.. 785K E. Main St.
SHEEHAN. JOHN D., M. D., 701 Dekum Bldg.
SHELDON, MRS. E. C.. 822 Halsey St.
SHIPLEY, J. W., UNDERWOOD, Wash.
SHOLES, CHARLES H., Box 243 City.
SIEBERTS. CONRAD J.. 623 E. 16th St.
SILL, J. G., 539 Vancouver Ave.
SILVER. ELSIE, 100 6th St.
SKELTON, EFFIE A., 1627 Peninsular Ave.
SMEDLEY. GEORGIAN E., 262 E. 16th St.
SMITH. DORSEY B., 1 16 3rd St.
SMITH, MRS. DORSEY. No. 8 Trinity Place
Apts.
SMITH, GEO. CHOATE, 727 Chamber of Com-
merce Bldg.
SMITH, KAN. Ketchikan. Alaska.
SMITH, MRS. KAN, Ketchikan. Alaska.
SMITH, LEOTTA, Oswego, Ore.. R. F. D.
SMITH, WARREN D.. 941 E. 19th St.
SMITH, WM. L., 328 Schuyler St.
SNEAD.J.S. L., 505 Weidler.
SPAETH. J . DUNCAN, Princeton. N. J .
SPARKS. J. C., 416 City Hall.
SPURCK. NELL I.. The Campbell.
STANFORD, MILDRED, 1811 Water St.. Olympia.
Wash.
Membership
117
STARR. NELLIE S., 6926 45th Ave., S. E.
STEARNS. LULU, 4148 65th Ave. S. E.
STONE, W. E., Purdue University. LaFayette,
Ind.
STONE. Mrs.. W. E.. 146 N. Grant. St., La-
Fayette, Ind.
STRONG. ANNA LOUISE, 508 Garfield Ave.,
Seattle, Wash.
STUDER, GEORGE A., 1 1 14 Williams Ave.
STURGES. DANIELA R.. 648 Gerald Ave.
TAYLOR, RAYMOND E., 320 Morrison St.
TAYLOR. VERA E., 604 Snalding Bldg.
TENNESON, Alice M., Care of High School,
North Yakima, Wash.
THATCHER, GUY W.. 302 Sacramento St.
THAXTER, BENJ. AUGUSTUS, 994 Bryce St.
THORINGTON, DR. J. M., 2031 Chestnut St.,
Philadelphia, Pa.
THORNE. H. ).. 452 E. 10th St. N.
THORNTON. OLIVER C., 691 Locust.
TIFFT. ARTHUR P., 710 Chamber of Commerce.
TINDOLPH. A. G., Title & Trust Bldg.
TOWNE. EDWARD W., 416 City Hall.
TREICHEL. CHESTER H., 535 Mall St.
TREICHEL, GERTRUDE, 535 Mall St.
TRENHOLME. ARTHUR K , 333 E. 44th St.
TUNZAT, MARIE, 367 Wygant St.
UPLEGER, MARGARET, University of Ore.. Eu-
gene, Ore.
UPSHAW, F. B., 594 Ladd Ave.
VAN BEBBER, L., 501 Fenton Bldg.
VAN ZANDT, DEAN, 849 Front St.
VEAZIE, A. L., 695 Hoyt Street.
VERNON. HOWARD W.. 22 Reade St., New York
City.
VESSEY, ETHYLE, 1207 W. 18th St., Vancouver,
Wash.
VIAL. LOUISE ONA, 580 E. Main.
VOLKMAN, S. A., Mult, A. A. Club.
WADE, GERTRUDE, 390 Hall St.
WAGNON, COLOMA M., 603 Sixth St.
WALDORF, Louis W., Western, Neb.
WALKER. M. L.. Corvallis, Ore.
WALTER. WILLIAM A. S., 55 N. 21st St.
WARNER. CHARLES E., Santa Barbara, Cal.
WATTERS, REV. DENNIS A., 321 East 8th, N.
WATTERSON, LOUELLA, Carlton Hotel.
WEER, J. H.. Care of West Coast Groc. Co.
WEICHELT, O. H., 6015 Hillegan Ave.. Oak-
land. Cal.
WEIR. L. H., Albuquerque, New Mexico.
WEISTER, G. M.. 653 E. 15th N.
WENNER. B. F.. Route No. 2. Milwaukee, Ore.
WHITE, WM. JR.. 1302 Commonwealth Trust
Bldg., Philadelphia, Pa.
WILBURN, VESTA, Lincoln Apts.
WILDER, G. W., 226 14th St.
WILLARD, CLARA, 112 W. 10th St.
WILLIAMS, A. BOYD., 131 East 19th St.
WILLIAMS, GEO. M., 713 "F" St.. Centralia.
Wash.
WILLIAMS, JOHN H.. 938^ Pacific Ave.,
Tacoma.
WILLIS, ARZA M., Touchet, Wash
WILSON, A., 1324 Cascade, Hood River.
WILSON. CHAS. W.. Bellevue, Idaho.
WILSON. RONALD M., The Hill Hotel.
WINTERS. C. L., 240 East 32nd St.
WOLBERS, HARRY L., 208 16th St.
WOLD. HAROLD L., 423 Abington Bldg.
WOODWORTH. C. B., Ladd & Tilton Bank.
WORTMAN. CHAS. H., 6034 46th Ave., S. E.
WYNN, FRANK B., DR., 421 Hume-Mansur
Bldg., Indianapolis, Ind.
YORAN, W. C., 912 Lawrence St., Eugene.
YOUMANS, W. J.. 687 E. 9th St.
YOUMANS, MRS. W. J., 687 E. 9th St.
YOUNG, BEATRICE, 228 Alberta St.
YOUNG. EMILY. 360 E. 9th St., N.
YOUNG, KATE E., 360 E. 9th St., N.
YOUNGER. NELL, Hotel Ramapo.
ZIEGLER, MAE, 89 Mason St.
ZWEINER, THERESA, Blooming Prairie. Minn.
HAZELWOOD CANDIES
Purest and Best
You are cheating yourself if you
have not become acquainted
with the many delicious varie-
ties of Hazelwood Candy.
When you give Hazelwood
Candy to a friend, it signifies
that you desire to give them
the best.
Confectionery and Restaurant
Washington Street at Tenth
THE HAZELWOOD
MAZAMAS, ATTENTION !!
We make a Specialty of everything in the line of
outing goods, such as
DUXBAK and KAMPIT CLOTHING
for Men and Ladies
BOOTS and MOCCASINS
TENTS, PACK SACKS, COOKING OUTFITS
SKIS, SNOW SHOES, ETC.
Besides a full line of FISHING TACKLE, GUNS and
Sporting Goods of Every Description
HUDSON ARMS CO. Morrison at Fourth
HONEYMAN HARDWARE COMPANY
FOURTH AT ALDER
Outing Clothing
ALADDIN, DUX-BAK AND KAMPIT
for Men and Women
OUTING SHOES
for Men and Women
PACK SACKS AND GOGGLES
ALPENSTOCKS
SNOW SHOES AND SKIS SWEATERS AND JERSEYS
TENNIS AND GOLF SUPPLIES
HIGH GRADE FISHING TACKLE
MAZAMAS
who experience the trials and difficulties
of taking snow pictures and photography
under adverse weather and lighting con-
ditions will find our service department
a wonderful help. Our staff of experts
will be glad to advise and help you.
& MARKHAM
Pnntin£g 343^ Washington St.
W. S. KIRK'S
ARMY and NAVY GOODS STORE
Corner Third and Stark Streets, Portland, Oregon
A Mecca for HIKERS, Hunters and Autoists
BLANKETS
SHIRTS
HATS
LEGGINS
KNAPSACKS
SHOES
SOCKS
PONCHOS
SWEATERS
KHAKI CLOTHING
SHELTER TENTS
MIDDIES
We also carry a very large line of U. S. Army war
implements converted into useful and ornamental
decorations for homes, dens, etc.
We invite your inspection of our stock
Catalog upon request
When You Want to Know About
BIRDS, TREES
and FLOWERS
-GET —
The Handbook of Western Birds
P.M. Bailey .... $3.50
The Western Bird Guide
Chas. K. Reed . . . . $1.00
Birds of Oregon and Washington
Lord $0.60
How to Study Birds
H.K.Job $1.50
The Sport of Bird Study
H.K.Job $1.50
Western Wild Flowers
K. Armstrong .... $2.00
Field Book of American Wild
Flowers — F. S. Mathews $2.00
Flower Guide
O.K. Reed $1.00
Tree Guide
J.E.Rogers . . . . $1.00
The J. K. Gill Co.
Third and Alder Streets
Portland, Oregon '
Roll Films
Developed Free
when prints are ordered
A
Received by 6 P. M.
Ready 8 o'clock next morning
A
PROMPT SERVICE
EXCELLENT WORK
BETTER PRICES
A
Mail Orders
our specialty
A
We Guarantee Our Work
A
MULTNOMAH
PHOTO SUPPLY CO.
Pantages Theatre Building
Portland, Oregon
It Gives You a Gooc
•
Date Due
/ Start
•ectly
epths
4Y
Oct29*3?
*lw£(y43
t-
'
-
^ND"
*>
PRESERVES, VEGETABLES
FISH AND COFFEE
The best of everything in eats — packed in tins
and glass under our "Red Ribbon Label"
MASON, EHRMAN & CO.
PORTLAND, OREGON
Set in Monotype and printed by James, Kerns & Abbott Company, Portland. Oregon
Emerald of the Cascades
Beautiful Lake Chelan
The most remarkable lake in
the mountains in all America, lying in
an ancient and tremendous cirque basin,
1075 feet above sea level. Tremendous
peaks of the Cascades that rise for more
than a mile above its surface almost com-
pletely surrounding it. A camping and
vacation spot of surpassing excellence. Easily
reached from Wenatchee, Washington, on main line
of Great Northern Railway.
GLACIER NATIONAL PARK
On main line Great Northern Railway. Established
now as America's Vacation Paradise. Delightful
hotels in the mountains await you — tours by auto,
stage and launch deep in among the giants of the Con-
tinental Divide and among the glaciers; jaunts a-sad-
dle and a-foot up skyland trails to the high passes.
Plan your next trip East via the
Great Northern Railway
City Passenger & Ticket Agent C. W. MELDRUM
348 Washington Street Asst. Gen'l Passenger Agent
PORTLAND. OREGON SEATTLE. WASH.
C. E. STONE M. J. COSTELLO
Passenger Traffic Manager Assistant Traffic Manager
ST. PAUL. MINN. SEATTLE. WASH.
Mt. Jefferson country, in the heart of
the Cascade Range, is a region of grandeur
and beauty. It is an ideal vacation land.
Grouped around the base of this rugged monarch
are quiet lakes, picturesque mountain parks, wonderful
forests, numerous mountain streams, many waterfalls
and all the other charms of Oregon mountains.
To the mountaineer Mt. Jefferson presents a chal-
lenge and countless opportunities for exploration and
adventure. To the woodsman, the fisherman, the
naturalist, and the lover of the great outdoors, Mt.
Jefferson country is a region of delight.
The Mt. Jefferson country is reached over a splendid
trail which connects with the Southern Pacific line at
Hoover on the North Santiam River.
Low Round Trip Fares are in effect daily to the end
of the railroad line during the summer season, train
service conveniently arranged.
Apply to any Agent for tickets, information and
literature or write.
JOHN M. SCOTT
General Passenger Agent, Portland, Oregon
SOUTHERN PACIFIC LINES
VOLUME V
DECEMBER, 1917
NUMBER 2
MAZAMA
A Record of Mountaineering
in the Pacific Northwest
NESIKA KLATAWA SAHALE J
Published by THE MAZAMAS
213 NORTHWESTERN BANK BUILDING
PORTLAND, OREGON, U. S. A.
Fifty Cents
azamas
outing next Summer will be in the piney steeps around
Wallowa Lake
where the appeal of the great out-of-doors is emphasized
by crisp mountain air fragrant with the breath of pines,
roaring cascades and lofty peaks - - Nature's setting of
harmonious companionship.
fake of the mountains
UNION
PACIFIC
SYSTEM
LOW FARES
Every Summer to
WALLOWA
Lake Park
General Passenger Agent
PORTLAND
iiiiiiiiiimiiMiiiiiiiiiiimiiiiiiiiimiim imiiiimiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiuiiiiiiiiiiiiiuiiiiiiiiiiiiiiui iinnm mitiuiiiiiiiiiiuniiiiiiiill niiiiiliiniini
Speaking of Climbing
Do you realize that the only way to insure your
attaining the peak of success is by systematic saving?
Let us help you
United States National Bank
Sixth and Stark Streets
Portland, Oregon
Resources, $25,000,000.00
The Mazamas Lead as Lovers of the
Great Outdoor Life
Whether you walk, or take to wheels, we have a message for you.
I f you motor, we have everything you need in auto supplies.
If on pleasure bent, the motor cycle or bicycle is your hobby, we
can furnish you the leading makes, as well as tires and supplies.
To those who tour on foot, or climb to the highest peaks, we have
some of the outing conveniences needed.
Like the Mazama Club Rooms, it is easy to
find our place — both located in the very
center of things. Self starters as it were.
The mountain expeditions start from
Mazama Headquarters. The Pacific High-
ways start from Broadway at Oak. Here
you will find us. Drop in any time. You
are more than welcome.
Ballou & Wright
Broadway at Oak
YOU CAN FIND NO BETTER AND MORE
APPROPRIATE PORTLAND SOUVENIR
THAN
THE COLUMBIA
AMERICA'S GREAT HIGHWAY
THROUGH THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS TO THE SEA
By SAMUEL CHRISTOPHER LANCASTER
Consulting Highway Engineer
A beautiful book, the highest expression of the art of color photography,
engraving and printing. A true history of a great work ir. a great state.
With thirty-one color plates and other illustrations; twenty-five of them by
the new process of color photography, first photographed on glass direct from
nature, and afterward reproduced by the four-color process
A NEW BOOK : A PURE BOOK : PRICE $1.50
The beautiful color prints in this book
can be purchased separately at 25C each
Stationery & Printing Co.
Corner Fifth and Oak Streets, Portland, Oregon
LADD'TILTON
BANK •
' p* VERY man who has saved a dollar has cut one solid step in
•" the face of a precipice, where he may momentarily stand ;
without it he would presently fall into space and be forgotten.
Resting on it he can cut another foothold, broader and more
secure. And so all heights are scaled."
—From J. J. Hill on Thrift
Ladd 6 Tilton Bank
Washington and Third
Established 1859
HE IDEALS and standards of a great
organization like the MAZAMAS
must be embodied in all their
undertakings. Even the publi-
cation of a year book, such as
this one, can not be an exception
to the rule. Equally important
with the stories, data, and reports which
comprise its pages of reading matter, and
the splendid work of Alfred F. Parker and
his staff, is the printing of the book itself.
Leaf through it again and note the beau-
tiful monotype composition — Goudy is the
name of the type face; look at the well-
balanced and artistic typographical arrange-
ment and sharpness of halftone illustrations.
Even the best critics will enthusiastically
agree that Mazama ideals and standards
have been given true expression in the
work we have done in this number of
MAZAMA.
We will do the same for you. Our service
and advice are at your disposal.
Phone Broadway 1305 A 6668
OR WRITE
JAMES, KERNS & ABBOTT CO.
PRINTERS of iQi7 MAZAMA
NINTH AND FLANDERS
PORTLAND /. OREGON
First Trout Streams
Deschutes
McKenzie
White Salmon
Washougal
Wind
Klickitat
Necanicum
Nehalem
—Also
The Big Lakes
Near Bend
in Oregon -Washington
and Finest Camping and Hunting
Country
Reached by System Lines of
The North Bank Road
MT. ADAMS. (12,307 ft.) third of the greatest
peaks of the Northwest, with one of the
greatest glacial fields for Alpine Sport,
Adventure; 2J hours by rail from Portland
W. D. SKINNER. Traffic Manager
Portland. Oregon
Weekly Anglers' Bulletin Distributed Free
During Summer Season
THE SHORTEST DISTANCE
BETWEEN TWO IMPORTANT POINTS
IS FROM
MAZAMA HEADQUARTERS TO
NORTHWESTERN NATIONAL BANK
You are invited to hit this Banking Trail — Mazamas
TheNorthwestern
National Bank
JtortnwesternBank BlcTg., Portland.Orefcon
MAZAMA
A RECORD OF MOUNTAINEERING IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
Publication Committee
BEATRICE YOUNG ALFRED F. PARKER. Editor PAULINE GEBALLE
VOLUME V PORTLAND, OREGON, DECEMBER, 1917 NUMBER 2
Contents
Page
MT. JEFFERSON OUTING, 1917 . . .127
Marion Schneider
MT. JEFFERSON 132
Ira A. Williams
THE GLACIERS OF MT. JEFFERSON 136
Laura Hatch
AN UNOFFICIAL ASCENT OF MT. JEFFERSON 140
W. E. Stone
PAMELIA LAKE 142
G. W. Wilder
A TRIP TO THREE-FINGERED JACK . . 145
John R. Penland
A WAR-TIME ASCENT OF MONT BLANC 148
J. Monroe Thorington
WITH THE PRAIRIE CLUB IN GLACIER PARK 154
Laura H. Peterson
A TRIP TO CRATER LAKE ON SKIS 158
R. L. Glisan
FROM HOOD TO JEFFERSON IN APRIL 162
Chester H. Treichel
PHASES OF VULCANISM AS SHOWN IN THE CASCADES 166
Pauline Geballe
SOME BIRDS OF THE HIGHER CASCADES 170
William L. Finley
THE HARLEY H. PROUTY MEMORIAL 173
John A. Lee
1 26 Contents
Page
THE 1917 MAZAMA OUTING TO MT. HOOD 177
Jean Richardson
MT. SHASTA IN HISTORY AND LEGEND 1 80
Allen H. Bent
MT. HOOD IN AUTUMN 186
Margaret A. Griffin
THE SILVER STAR TRIP 189
Marion Schneider
THE CAMERA IN HIGH PLACES iqo
R. L. Glisan
ADDRESS OF RETIRING PRESIDENT 193
REPORTS OF LODGE COMMITTEE 196
REPORT OF LOCAL WALKS COMMITTEE 199
LOCAL WALKS COMMITTEE — FINANCIAL REPORT zoo
MAZAMA OUTING FOR 1918 201
REPORT OF CERTIFIED PUBLIC ACCOUNTANT 202
WHAT "MAZAMA" STANDS FOR 204
MAZAMA ORGANIZATION FOR THE YEAR 1917-1918 205
ROLL OF HONOR 206
BUREAU OF ASSOCIATED MOUNTAINEERING CLUBS OF NORTH AMERICA . 207
GEOGRAPHIC PROGRESS IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST 208
BOOK REVIEWS 209
MEMBERSHIP 215
The feeding of the rivers and the purifying of
the winds are the least of the services appointed
to the hills. To fill the thirst of the human heart
for the beauty of God's working — to startle its
lethargy with the deep and pure agitation of aston-
ishment— are their higher missons. They are as a
great and noble architecture, first giving shelter,
comfort and rest; and covered also with mighty
sculpture and painted legend.
— RUSKIN
Mt. Jefferson from Mazama temporary camp in Jefferson Park
Co fry right, 1917. by F. I. Jones
MAZAMA
VOLUME V DECEMBER, 1917 NUMBER 2
Mt. Jefferson Outing, 1917
By MARION SCHNEIDER
Just ten years following the last previous official Mazama outing to
Mt. Jefferson, a party of over fifty left the Union station, Portland, at 8
p. m., on Saturday, August 4, 1917, for Detroit, Linn county, the
railroad terminus. The Pullmans were sidetracked for several hours
at Albany, but reached their destination, as scheduled, at 4:30 a. m.
on Sunday. Everyone set out at once in the gray of the morning, as
five of the twenty miles to our camp at Pamelia lake were to be covered
before breakfast. For a mile or more the party trudged along the
railroad track. At Hoover the path followed an old road grade. The
underbrush had grown up in dense profusion on both sides and gave
the impression of walking through an enormous corridor. Breakfast
was served in a grove of large trees on the bank of the Santiam river.
And such a breakfast — fried ham, eggs, coffee and biscuits, served as
only Chef Weston can serve them.
After a short rest the party continued on their way, following for
miles the shore of the wild and picturesque Santiam. Gradually the
trail led up into the heavier timber, crossing and recrossing the ever-
present mountain streams. At Woodpecker ranger station, a mile
above the junction of Whitewater creek and the North Santiam river,
a stop was made for lunch.
The remaining seven miles to the lake were a source of constant
delight. The trail wound in and out among gigantic trees. Suddenly
and most unexpectedly a big tent loomed up right in the heart of the
woods. Because the feeling of being in the mountains was entirely ab-
sent, some doubted that this tent was the Mazama kitchen. However,
the sight of Jack Benefiel, serving soup to the advance group, was
most reassuring.
Just in front of the big tent were the usual out-of-door tables,
but this time they were made in steplike sections because of the slope.
Beyond was a beautiful lake, bordered with great trees and protected
by the high, barren ridges above. Mt. Jefferson was not visible, but
a trail led a short distance around the lake to a point where one could
glimpse the rugged pinnacle. No snow-fields or glaciers were in view;
just the bare, rocky crest and the tops of intervening foothills.
128 Mt. Jefferson Outing, igi 7
The first day in camp was spent in much the same manner as all
previous first days — in getting settled. Along the lake shore were in-
numerable camp-sites from which to make a selection. There was a
plentiful supply of boughs for beds and an abundance of wood for the
camp-fires. A path was cleared from the women's quarters to the
lake, in preparation for the early morning plunge that was so thoroughly
enjoyed each day by nearly everyone in camp. Rafts were built, and
even before the close of the first day enthusiastic fishermen were bring-
ing back in abundance the delicious trout which formed such a welcome
part of the camp menu.
On Tuesday morning the training for the final climb was begun.
Mr. W. C. Yoran guided a party of thirty-five to Smith's Cove. The
trail led through heavy timber, with a gradual increase in elevation,
although at no time was there a broad, sweeping view of the country.
In the cove was an attractive mountain meadow, with the ever-present
little lake and snow, and flowers in wild profusion.
While the untried were being initiated into the delights of moun-
tain climbing, eight hardy Mazamas made the trip to the summit in
order to scout the best route for the official climb. They found the
climb difficult and tedious, owing to the character of the mountain.
Although undoubtedly of volcanic origin, the typical cone shape of
the volcanic mountain was no longer in evidence. The main body of
the ridge was found to be composed of ash and loose pieces of lava,
thus making alternating sections of hard and soft material. The
summit, at an elevation of 10,523 feet, was formed by an abrupt,
sheer mass of jagged, crumbling rock. Ropes fastened at the crest
and at various places where secure rock could be found, were left
hanging against the face of the pinnacle to serve as moral support,
and physical if needed, to the less experienced.
Wednesday was a most unusual day for Mazamas on an annual
outing, for nearly everyone stayed in camp. The air at this elevation,
3 500 feet, was so mild and pleasant, the camp was so comfortable and
warm, that incentives for action were lacking. There was plenty of
activity, however, in the afternoon; for the entire camp enjoyed an
hilarious swimming frolic.
On Thursday the desire to become better acquainted with the
mountain region returned more vigorously than ever, One party of
four men started on a two-day trip around the mountain; another
party climbed up Milk creek to Lighthouse rock, experiencing the joy
of contact with the mountain itself; a third party journeyed to Hunt's
Cove; a fourth climbed the ridge behind the lake to a tract of meadows
Vv-t'f>:^|
V v
• ?1
Mt. Jefferson Outing, 1917 12,9
known as "Grizzly Flats" from which a far-reaching view could be
enjoyed.
Friday was the day selected for the beginning of the official climb.
At four o'clock in the afternoon two parties, forty persons in all, set
out for bivouac camp, at the timber-line. One group climbed the rough
and precipitous bed of rock and gravel known as "Dry Gulch." The
other, led by Dr. W. E. Stone, followed an easier grade through the
timber and over the ridges. At seven, everyone had reached the des-
tination. The location was ideal from every standpoint, — plenty of
sheltered sandy spots, an abundance of boughs for beds, and great
masses of snow available for the water supply. The party was loath
to settle down to rest. The air was pleasantly warm, the ridges and
meadows were visible for miles, and the horizon was radiant with the
gorgeous coloring of sunset. But as there was a strenuous day ahead,
by nine o'clock the peace and quiet of the mountain had settled down
upon the little gathering.
At 4 a. m. everyone was up and ready for the final climb. The
route selected led along the top of the ridges to the base of the pinna-
cle. Very little snow was encountered, the walking being mostly on
crumbling rock and gravel. With every step, a little avalanche of
dirt and shale went sliding down the mountain.
At 10:30 the first company, in charge of Mr. J. R. Penland, had
reached the base of the pinnacle. The sight of that vast mass of
crumbling rock, looming up abruptly for some four hundred feet, was
awe-inspiring. Alpenstocks were useless for such work. The intrepid
mountaineers climbed up the dizzy height, inch by inch, until after an
hour's exertion the entire party of ten were assembled on the summit.
The air was perfectly clear. Mt. Hood, fifty miles to the north, loomed
up as if but a stone's throw away. Many other peaks of the Cascade
range, from Rainier to Shasta, towered up to repay the effort of the
climb.
As there was so little space on the crest, and as the danger from
falling rock was ever present, the second company had to wait at the
foot until the first had made the thrilling and hazardous descent. It
was not until late in the afternoon that the last of the twenty-eight
successful climbers returned to the base of the pinnacle. Because of
the long wait at this point, it was q p. m. before the entire party had
arrived at permanent camp.
Sunday was indeed a day of rest. At 1 1 130 services in charge of
Dr. A. J. Montgomery were held in the grove. Dr. Henry Marcotte,
whose genial and kindly personality had made him one of the most
popular members of the camp, preached a sermon.
130 Mi. Jefferson Outing, 1917
On Monday a party of sixteen, led by Dr. Stone, departed for
bivouac camp. The party included Mr. J. E. Bronaugh and his son,
who had come to camp to participate in the second official climb.
On Tuesday morning Dr. and Mrs. Stone left the main group in order
to try another route to the summit. Dr. Montgomery guided the
others in a most efficient and successful manner. Both parties reached
the top about the same time, and rested for an hour or more. The day
was hazy and the distant view unsatisfactory, but the glaciers and parks
about the mountain itself afforded a prospect which was thoroughly
enjoyed. While the group was at the top, a gigantic roar was heard
and an enormous avalanche of rock from the very pinnacle itself went
thundering down over the glacier. No time was lost in climbing down
to safety. The homeward journey was shortened by following a new
route over the snow-fields. At 6:30 p. m. the entire party, under
Dr. Montgomery's able leadership, marched up to the cook tent, ready
to do justice to another of Chef Weston's delicious dinners.
An account of the outing would not be complete without a few
words concerning the gatherings at the camp-fire. Mr. Yoran directed
the singing and furnished much entertainment during his short stay in
camp. Dr. Montgomery and Dr. Marcotte graciously accepted the
responsibility of leadership during the last week. State Biologist Wil-
liam L. Finley gave entertaining and instructing talks on birds. Mr.
H. T. Bohlman told about the birds in the immediate vicinity. Dr.
Stone gave informal talks on mountaineering. Mr. Hall, Forest Super-
visor of the Santiam Reserve, told about the work of the U. S. Forest
Service. Mr. Ira A. Williams, of the Oregon Agricultural College,
gave a talk on the geological formation of the Mt. Jefferson country.
Intermingled with the serious discussions were merry, light-hearted
songs and jests.
On Thursday thirty left camp for an outing in Jefferson Park,
on the north side of the mountain. The main group followed the ridges
across the very face of Jefferson and dropped down into "Hanging
Valley," a veritable paradise of mountain parks.
The park itself extends about two miles from east to west and a
mile from north to south. It includes hundreds of lakes and pools.
In many places the snow-fields extend down to the edge of the water.
At intervals, little ridges covered with fir and hemlock rise between
the meadows. The mountain itself, with its massive rocky ridges, its
wonderful glaciers and long snow-fields, dominates the view. The
meadows, one above the other in a shelf-like arrangement, are a never-
ending source of joy. The little streams meander through hedges of
brilliant flowers, which seem to grow in masses of the same color;
Mt. Jefferson Outing, 79/7
131
here a bed of gorgeous paintbrush, there of purple lupine; yonder,
against the snow, a mass of blue gentian; then a patch of yellow; moun-
tain flowers of all kinds in wild and glorious profusion.
Every minute of Friday was filled with joyous and enthusiastic
explorations of the park. Regret was constantly expressed that but
one day could be spent here.
On Saturday one group left with a pack train, bound for Detroit
by way of Wild Cheat Meadows ; the other by way of Breitenbush hot
springs. The first group followed Whitewater creek to the lower end
of the valley. From here a well defined trail led up the ridge, across
the edge of a twelve-hundred-acre burn, down to Wild Cheat ranger
station. The party camped here for the night.
Early on Sunday morning the three groups, one from Pamelia
lake, another from Wild Cheat Meadows, and the third from Breiten-
bush, started down the trail. There was a merry reunion at Detroit,
where the parties boarded the specials for Portland. Another success-
ful chapter in mountaineering was closed.
LIST OF PERSONS WHO CLIMBED PINNACLE OF MT. JEFFERSON
ON MAZAMA OUTING OF 1917
ALLEN, ENID C., Minneapolis.
AVER, ROY W., Portland.
BENEDICT, LEE, Portland.
BENEDICT, MAE, Portland.
BLARNEY, C. E., Milwaukie, Oregon.
BRONAUGH, GEORGE E., Portland.
BRONAUGH, JERRY E., Portland.
BOHLMAN, HERMAN T., Portland.
CHAMBERS, MARY E., Eugene, Oregon.
DAVIDSON, R. J., Portland.
DAVIDSON, MRS. R. J., Portland.
EVERSON, F. L., Portland.
FAGSTAD, THOR, Cathlamet, Wash.
FORD, G. L., Portland.
GIRSBERGER, MABEL R., Portland.
GOLDAPP, MARTHA OLGA, Portland.
GRIFFITH, B. W., Los Angeles, Calif.
HATCH, LAURA, Northampton, Mass.
HARDESTY, W. P., Portland.
HENTHORNE, MARY C., Portland.
HOGAN, CLARENCE, Portland.
IVANAKEFF, PASHO, Portland.
JONES, F. I., Portland.
KNAPP, MARY L., Portland.
LOUCKS, ETHEL M., Portland.
LUETTERS, F. P., Portland.
MARCOTTE, HENRY, Kansas City, Mo.
MARSH, J. W., Underwood, Wash.
MILLER, BEULAH, Portland.
MONTGOMERY, ANDREW J., Portland.
MONTGOMERY, BERNARD, Portland.
NILSSON, MARTHA E., Portland.
NORDEEN, EDITH, Portland.
PENLAND, JOHN R., Albany, Oregon.
PETERSON, ARTHUR S., Portland.
PETERSON, E. F., Portland.
ROYAL, OSMON, Portland.
SCHNEIDER, MARION, Portland.
SHERMAN, MINET, Portland.
SMITH, LEOTTA, Oswego, Oregon.
STONE, DR. W. E., Lafayette, Indiana.
STONE, MRS. W. E., Lafayette, Indiana.
TOWEY, WM. J., Portland.
WOLBERS, H. L., Portland.
ZIMMERMAN, DARL, Eugene, Oregon.
ZIMMERMAN, T. J., Portland.
Mt. Jefferson
By IRA A. WILLIAMS
Oregon Bureau of Mines and Geology
If I were asked which of all the varied features of the Cascade
range in Oregon offers the strongest appeal to the real lover of the out-
of-doors, I should find no alternative but to reply, without hesitation or
tremor of voice, the Mt. Jefferson region. This is so not because there
are no other sections of the range dominated by prominent snow and
ice-clad peaks, deep canyons and innumerable lakes. For there are,
between the California border at the south and the Columbia river, an
intermittent serial chain of them. Does Mt. Jefferson and its scenic
environs stand out, then, because of its position, as the master jewel in
this two hundred and fifty-mile string of most splendent gems? It is
true that the mountain itself can be seen from far beyond Mt. Hood at
one end, from Mt. McLoughlin in the Crater Lake region, and even
from Mt. Shasta beyond the California line at the other. It occupies
a medial location and, at a distance, an apparently commanding one.
But it is no more pre-eminent a mountain peak than are the Three
Sisters forty miles to the south of it, and even less so than Mt. Hood,
which overlooks the Columbia far to the north.
The cause for its acknowledged appeal must therefore be sought
at close range, and will be found only by those who are able to visit the
mountain, who study its features, and particularly its surroundings.
If we would recognize the best in any human friend, we cultivate ac-
quaintanceship. So, too, will the lure of mountain and forest grow with
close association; and just so will the individuality of Mt. Jefferson be
revealed only to the sympathetic person who seeks it in a spirit of friend-
ship and appreciation.
This great mountain rises from the very summit of the Cascade range,
in truth one of nature's brilliant gems. It is the sculptured form of a once
lofty volcano whose belchings forth in the time of greatest activity
spread volcanic materials from its crater over a large range of surround-
ing country. That man-cut gems may properly display their beauty,
and thus evidence their intrinsic value as articles of adornment, suitable
and costly settings are provided whereby native scintillations are vivified,
elusive sheen or play of color enhanced, the jewel itself made a thing
of abounding life. No less does nature do, and more effectively does she
proceed often to surround and to support her masterpieces with a setting
Mt. Jefferson 133
or environment from which they, as nuclei, shine forth in all their
fascinating splendor.
The spreading lower slopes of Mt. Jefferson are aproned with
forest. Alpine types have crept persistently upward until brought
to a dwindling and protesting halt by the downcoming mantle of ice
and snow. About its feet and for miles along the Cascades summit to
north and south, as uncounted as they are indescribably beautiful,
lakes, some of them snow-encircled the year through, are sprinkled with
methodical indiscrimination amongst the clumps of firs and hemlock,
beneath impending cliff, at the brink of precipice. The interstices among
the trees and lakelets, which are frequently of such proportions as to be
appropriately termed meadows, are occupied with grassy sod, often
boulder-besprinkled, and invariably adorned with the more brilliant,
not to forget the modest hues as well, of springtime flowers. As a rule,
these small lakes are unconnected, except during a portion of the year
when the accumulated snows of winter reach from one to another, and
designedly protect sward, flower patches, lakelets and all, until each
summer's sun brings them forth to life again. In places, however, the
waters drain into the deep canyons that quickly drop away from the
mountain to east and west, and they do so by way of meandering stream-
lets from lake to lake that sooner or later plunge over rock cliffs, some
of magnificent height, in repeated series of splendid falls, foaming
rapids and cascades.
We who have visited the Mt. Jefferson region have grown into the
habit of calling these beauty places about the base of the mountain
"coves;" where they are of considerable expanse and fairly even surface
the term "flat" is a much used though widely inaccurate designation.
More comprehensive still, and quite appropriately, is the name "park"
applied to suggest and to describe the larger, better defined lake- and
pond-dotted, rock-studded areas where attractively spaced tree clumps,
shrub clusters and interspersed meadow lend character and a com-
forting charm. Thus we know and revel in our knowledge of Smith
and Hunt coves, for example, and Grizzly flat to the south of the
mountain; while Jefferson Park at the north base has never failed to
inspire even the most casual visitor with the enchantment of its beauty,
andthewildness of its surroundings, which are as yet largely unexplored.
In a setting such as this, there is abundant reason for the superior
attractiveness of the great mountain and for the irresistible charm
of the Mt. Jefferson region. It is the mounting of the jewel, therefore,
as much as it is the gem itself, that makes of it an object of distinction.
It must be remembered, however, that the ignoble gem, as the man of
sterling worth, is rarely lifted into the distinguished class by surround-
1 34 Mt. Jefferson
ings alone. An unquestioned inherent integrity, a perfection of model-
ing, the gleam of quality, must exist, or commonplaceness remains in
the presence of even the most elaborate of environment. Mt. Jefferson
has been made a wonderful mountain through the cooperative influence
of its surroundings, although, alone, it would stand out as a thing of
inspiring beauty and nobility.
Let us briefly observe some of its particular characteristics. At
once we recognize its volcanic character. Every piece of rock of which
it is composed has come forth from within the earth by volcanic erup-
tion. Its vast height and bulk are due to the heaping up of materials
that issued from its crater. But today there is no evidence of a crater
in its top, nor is its form that of the finished volcano. Something —
many things — have happened since it ceased to grow.
Again we may revert to the simile of the gem. This one of nature's
mountain children was brought into being by the forces of volcanism.
It was doubtless originally immensely larger, more symmetric, and we
know not how much loftier than now. But it would seem that the task,
if such it may be regarded, was not completed by mere accumulation of a
great heap of rock materials. The evidence we have for this assump-
tion is the fact that forces, nature's own agencies, went to work promptly
to shape, to alter and to remodel the new-born mountain, just as does
the lapidary with the native stone. Indeed, we have no gem at all
until its innate qualities are revealed from beneath the rough.
Mt. Jefferson's sides were first etched by the wind and rains.
Streams of water trickled, then cut and gouged their way into the
slopes of the former mountain until they became coursed with a series of
gullies, gulches, canyons. Its great height made of it a vast theatre
for the reception of long centuries of snowfall. At intervals untold
quantities of the snow must have moved down its slopes in enormous
avalanches, then melted away and thus added to the eroding strength
of the ever-growing streams. As the higher slopes became more and
more roughened, and on account of variations in the hardness of the
rocks encountered, its configuration finally became sufficiently irregular
that, instead of moving downward suddenly as avalanches, the snows
accumulated, not for merely a year or so, but for many years, and in
various positions upon the mountain's sides. So long did the snow pile
up that by its own weight much of it became compacted into solid ice.
After the quantity of ice and snow had become very large, so large
that their inclined position was an unstable one, they responded to the
pull of gravity and began to move downward. Thus were the glaciers
born. And at once, when they came into being, another relentless
molding force was brought into action in the remodeling of our moun-
Mt . Jefferson 1 3 5
tain. Immense thickness and weight gave to each ice stream a power
to bite deeply into the mountain, to excavate and to carry away un-
measured amounts of its substance.
And so we liken unto the polisher of gems these powers of nature,
wind, water, and ice, in their busy transfiguration of a noble mountain.
The deep niches they have chiseled into it are the facets of the cut gem,
and the rock ribs and projecting promontories upon its sides the divid-
ing angles and edges between contiguous refracting faces.
True, nature has dug deeply into the mountain, so deeply that even
portions of its bony framework appear to be exposed. And what a
dull, comparatively lifeless object to look upon had the process been
one only of digging and removal ! The lapidary makes first cuts with
rough tools, grinds away first with coarse abrasives ; but follows always
with painstaking polishing processes that uncover and bring out innate
quality to best advantage. May we believe that the great glaciers
and their attendant snowfields on Mt. Jefferson are but the concrete
expression of a method pursued to show forth her primitive beauty and
proportions; that the gleam of the great draping cloak of white by
which she is seen and recognized from near and far is a master and finish-
ing stroke of the sculptor whereby this mountain gem has been made
splendid and immortal in the eyes of man? It is an enticing thought
indeed to entertain. And we may carry the analogy further. Infinitely
beyond the artificial limitations of the polisher of gems, nature varies
with the seasons the extent to which she enlivens the dullness of the
mountain by the gleam of snow and ice. In winter, when the clouds
hang low, as though to pierce the fog with its glare of whiteness, she
covers it over, nearly or quite entirely, with a mantle of fresh snow. In
summer the dark rocks show through, the escalloped borders of the en-
shrouding frigid skirt contract, as though again to more effectively dis-
play, by contrast between snow and rock, the mountain and the forest,
the bulk, the majesty and the grandeur of one of Oregon's most splendid
mountain peaks — Mt. Jefferson, the Matterhorn of the Pacific
Northwest.
The Glaciers of Mt. Jefferson
By LAURA HATCH
It has been known for some time that there are glaciers of fair
size on Mt. Jefferson,* but as few details had been gathered, and
practically nothing written about them, they offered an attractive
field for investigation by the writer. So few people, indeed, had visited
this section of the Cascade range of Oregon, that che three most
important glaciers on Mt. Jefferson, those on the north and east slopes,
were not named until 1915, when Mr. Ira A. Williams of the Oregon
Bureau of Mines did so in his delightful description of the scenic fea-
tures of the neighboring region. t
Although the time at the disposal of the writer was very limited,
a number of interesting facts have been gathered concerning the gla-
ciers, and with these in hand for comparison it will be easier at some
future time to make observations of greater value.
The glaciers of Mt. Jefferson are practically confined to the north,
east and southeast slopes of the mountain. On the south and west the
snowfields are small and seem barely able to cling to the very steep
slopes of the mountain (Fig. i), and no glaciers are seen from the dis-
tance. On closer examination, however, a thin ribbon of stagnant ice
is discovered at the head of Milk creek, which drains the western slope
of the mountain, and which occupies a very narrow and deep canyon
near its source. As this ice is undoubtedly the remnant of a former
active glacier, it will be called for convenience the Milk Creek glacier.
It is not now connected with any large snow-field and during August,
1917, water from the small patches of snow above was seen falling over
the cliffs above the glacier before dropping beneath it. (Fig. 2.) The
roar of the river beneath the ice could be distinctly heard throughout
its length of about half a mile.
The Milk Creek glacier in 1917, beside being stagnant and covered
to a certain extent with debris from the neighboring walls, was really
only a shell or crust over the water that flowed beneath. This condi-
tion was best seen at the lower end of the glacier where the combined
attack of the sun's rays above and the river below, has thinned the ice
so that sections of it have fallen in, leaving caves and ice bridges.
(Fig. 3.) For 300 feet or more farther down the valley, ice can be
*See brief notes by I. C. Russell in Journal of Geology, 1904, p. 261, and also in
Bulletin 252 U. S. Geological Survey 1905, p. 124.
tBulletin i, volume 2, Oregon Bureau of Mines and Geology, iqi 5, pages 43-44.
The Glaciers of Mt. Jefferson 137
found in the valley wall, showing a very recent and rapid retreat of
the glacier.
As this ice tongue is so narrow (from twenty to fifty feet wide)
and so thin, one might be willing to consider it just the result of the
accumulation of snow of the preceding winter, if it were not for the
abundant evidence of strong glacial action on all sides. Below the
glacier the stream has intrenched itself in a sheet of coarse glacial
drift, only here and there uncovering a ledge of lava over which it
develops falls. As the valley widens to the west this sheet of morainic
material is spread out over a fan-shaped area and terminates about
a mile from the ice. No distinct terminal ridge was noted, showing
that the glacier did not remain long in this position. On this coarse
moraine only bushes and very small trees were found, proving it to
be of very recent date. The writer was fortunate enough to meet
Dr. A. J. Montgomery and his son, who had seen the glacier in this
position in 1907. This date corresponds with that which had been
worked out from the size of the vegetation, the largest trees being only
about ten years old.
The size of the glacier in 1907 was great, of course, compared to
its present extent, but it was slight compared to what it must have
been when it built the high terminal moraine another half mile down the
valley. (Fig. 4.) Here it must have been two or three hundred feet
thick at least near its terminus and probably much thicker in the nar-
rower part of the valley above.
The lack of connection of the glacier with the present snow-fields,
and their very small size (at least in the late summer) make it hard to
see what could have brought about these former glacial advances. If
the head of the valley is studied it will be seen that the snow from
practically all the western slope of the mountain would be concen-
trated at the head of Milk Creek canyon. As this valley is so very
narrow and deep a small change in the amount of annual snowfall
might bring about a great change in the amount of ice in the canyon.
The advances might have followed a series of years with a somewhat
greater snowfall than usual or with cooler summers, or with a combi-
nation of climatic factors bringing about the greater accumulation of
snow in the valley. The exact causes and conditions for the advance
could of course be worked out only after careful records had been kept
for a number of years and these compared to records from neighboring
regions. Unfortunately no data has so far been obtained concerning
the position of the ice in the few years preceding 1907, nor of the snow-
fall or other climatic factors, but as Mazamas and others have visited
138 The Glaciers of Ml. Jefferson
the region before that time, it is hoped that some information may
be obtained.*
On the north and east slopes of the mountain, however, are gla-
ciers that compare favorably in size with other glaciers in the United
States. The largest one is that which covers the whole eastern face
of the mountain and is fully five miles in greatest width, and a mile
or two in length. It is more or less fan-shaped, radiating from the
base of the pinnacle on the top of the mountain. From here it spreads
out into five separate lobes to the edge and partly below the shoulder
between the main mountain mass and the general plateau level. This
glacier, or at least, the northern lobe of it which can be seen from
Jefferson Park, Mr. Williams f has called the Whitewater glacier, be-
cause it drains eastward into the Whitewater and Deschutes rivers.
The name is rather unfortunate, as there is a Whitewater creek on the
northwest side of the mountain and as a glacier also drains into that,
the two may well become confused. A view of the three middle lobes
of the Whitewater glacier as seen from the summit of Mt. Jefferson is
given in figure 5.
To the southeast is Waldo glacier which although in line with
the lobes of the Whitewater glacier occupies a separate basin. In
the summer of 1917 it was particularly characterized by three great
crevasses which crossed it near its head. (Fig. 6.)
On the north slope of the mountain, overhanging Jefferson Park
are two glaciers occupying distinct hollows at somewhat different ele-
vations. The one farthest east, Mr. Williams has named the Russell
glacier, J and the other one the Jefferson Park glacier. Excellent views
of these glaciers can be obtained from the ridge at the head of Jefferson
Park. (Fig. 7.) Little detailed work could be done on these glaciers
for lack of time. Pictures, however, were taken from advantageous
points of their termini, and it is hoped that they may be used at some
future time to help determine the extent and rate of glacier movement.
The most interesting thing observed was distinct proof of a very
rapid recent decrease or recession of the ice. The best evidence was
found at the lower end of the Whitewater glacier where a double-
crested moraine fringed the ice. In the inner ridge, glacier ice is found
up to twenty and twenty-five feet above the present surface of the
glacier. (Figs. 8 and q.) The double-crested moraine is probably to be
*Anyone able to give information on these points is earnestly asked to com-
municate with the writer as soon as possible through the corresponding secretary
of the Mazamas.
fLoc. cit.
JLoc. cit. As there are already a glacier and a fiord named after Russell, in
Alaska, it would be wise to rename this glacier too, if possible.
w §
•fi .«
JC 0
Si-
JD c'^
•**
The Glaciers of Mt. Jefferson 1 39
interpreted as due to the melting down of the surface of the glacier,
rather than to a second advance after the first had been deposited. The
two moraines are very nearly parallel and the inner one usually stands
at about the same relative height compared to the outer higher ridge.
The idea seems to be that the ice by melting has lowered its surface so
much that the inner side of the moraine has gradually sunk down,
making a separate ridge. As the glacier ice is still found so high in
this inner moraine, it shows that the lowering of the surface has been
very recent and very rapid. If this twenty-five feet is added to the
twenty to forty feet that the inner ridge must have slumped down if
it was ever continuous with the outer moraine, it makes the total thin-
ning of the glacier a considerable amount.
Whether this recession of the glaciers in the Mt. Jefferson region
points to a gradual amelioration of the climate or is a local or tempo-
rary phenomenon, can only be determined after observations have been
continued over an extended period of time, and compared with evidence
from other parts of the world.
Other interesting things were noted but can be only mentioned at
this time, for instance, the crevassing of the glaciers. All of them
(except the Milk Creek glacier) had some cracks, showing that the ice
was moving, but the most interesting ones were seen in the second lobe
of the Whitewater glacier. From the top of the mountain the eye is
caught by the unusual grouping of the crevasses into radiating curved
lines. Nearer the surface of the glacier it is observed that the ice is
really very much shattered, and impassable below a certain level on
the mountain side. A very sharp hill evidently rises from the floor
over which the glacier passes, for a mass of rock is exposed, on the upper
side of which the layers of ice are upturned and deeply cracked. The
structure of the ice is well shown by the layers of debris. The ice rides
over the summit of the hill but breaks off just beyond and reforms
below, making a tumbled mass of dirt-covered ice blocks which at a
distance give the appearance of a medial moraine. In all the glaciers
the deep crevasses near the heads (bergschrund) are most noticeable,
but as these are clearly defined and the ice or snow between them
is relatively smooth, they do not offer serious obstacles to the crossing
of the glaciers, as do the crevasses farther down. The author hopes
at some future time to go on with the study of these little-known gla-
ciers, and in the meantime to gather data concerning the former posi-
tions of the ice and conditions of snowfall from any who have visited
the region and are willing to furnish it.
An Unofficial Ascent of Mt. Jefferson
By W. E. STONE
On the southwestern face of Mt. Jefferson are to be seen two deep
channels or gullies, which, commencing near the summit pinnacle,
descend in nearly parallel courses and finally converge to form Milk
Creek canyon, which then makes a sharp turn to the westward below
the timber-line. These gullies are filled with snow and serve as chutes
for a stream of falling stones, which start at the pinnacle and hurtle
downward with incredible speed, coming to rest a mile below on the
snow which fills the bottom of the canyon. The sharp ridge lying
between these gullies is conspicuous in any view of this face of the
mountain, and at first glance seems to offer a direct and interesting
route to the summit. The official route for the ascent was however
chosen upon the long curved ridge lying to the south or right of these
gullies, as being less difficult, although of greater length. (See photo-
graph on opposite page.)
On the second official ascent (August 14) the writer, accompanied
by Mrs. Stone, left the main party on the ridge just above the bivouac
camp, with the purpose of climbing by this central ridge, which so
far as could be learned, was an untried route. To reach the foot of
the ridge, it was necessary to cross the long scree slope descending
into Milk Creek canyon from the south. Keeping our altitude from
the point of departure we swung around the side of the great ampi-
theater and in about an hour reached the snow at the foot of the right
hand gully or couloir. We crossed this without difficulty, there being
few falling stones in evidence at this early hour, and by means of the
second narrow tongue of snow reached the summit of the ridge. The
preliminaries thus accomplished we now were face to face with the
problems of the ascent. Seen at close range the ridge appears to be
broken into benches, with perpendicular faces, alternating with steep
slopes of broken rock and volcanic cinders, and interspersed with pin-
nacles or gendarmes. The lower third of the ridge is composed of a
reddish yellow formation abruptly ending in a horizontal stratum of
columnar basalt which afforded an interesting bit of climbing. Above
this there was a long stretch of tedious work over loose sliding rock,
lying at its natural angle of repose. We conjectured that this repose
had not been disturbed during some ages and received the full benefit
of the long accumulated resistance to gravity. Never have I encoun-
tered so much loose material resting on a hair trigger. Every pro-
jecting rock was the precarious support of an overflowing mass of
Hanging snow-field at the head of Milk Creek glacier. Mt. Jefferson
^hotogr
Photograph by Ira A. Williams
An Unofficial Ascent of Mt. Jefferson 141
debris which at the least touch would come pouring down upon us.
Evidently this would be an impracticable route for a large party of
climbers. With only two of us, the utmost care was necessary to
avoid an accident from falling stones.
Having accomplished about two-thirds of the distance, we came,
just below the long snow field which extends up to the base of the
final pinnacle, to a mass of conglomerate with a perpendicular face
standing right across the ridge and threatening to block our ascent.
On either hand its sides fell away so sharply into the gullies and dis-
charged such a continual rain of falling stones that a flanking move-
ment appeared to be impossible. There seemed no way but to go
straight over the top, but the steepness of the face and the treacher-
ous nature of the rock which offered no holds beyond the projecting
constituents of the rotten pudding stone, soon showed this to be out
of the question. A survey of the right hand slope gave no better
results, and we turned to the left with little hope of success. A bold
shoulder cut us off from a nearer view into the gully, but when by
dint of hacking at the soft stone with the ice-axe, a precarious foot-
hold was gained, the sight was far from comforting. Against the face
of the rock pressed the solid ice walls of the gully resting at an angle
of fifty to sixty degrees. Looking up one could see some fifty feet
away a safe position whence the ridge resumed its normal slope. Look-
ing down, the fearful ice slope disappeared behind a turn of the couloir
suggesting unknown depths below. We hesitated to accept the chal-
lenge of this forbidding ice slope. Without ropes and with but two
in the party, to venture upon such an enterprise involves serious risks.
The only alternative was to turn back, which we were in no mood to
consider, so after a careful study of the situation, I strengthened my
foothold on the rock and then began to hack out the first step on the
ice slope. Finally it was completed, of ample width and depth for
both feet. Standing thus with the chasm below and the steep slope
of blue ice rising before me, one firm step after another was slowly
cut until the score reached fifty. Close behind came my companion,
to whom I could give no assistance other than words of encourage-
ment. Slowly we reached the summit of the ridge — the outstretched
foot felt the firm rock and with an overwhelming feeling of relief we
had surmounted what will always be remembered as a "nasty bit
of climbing."
We were now clear of the rocks and standing at the foot of the
conspicuous snow-field lying below and to the west of the summit
pinnacle. Fortunately it was still firm from the night's freezing and
not so steep as to require further step cutting. At twelve o'clock,
142 Pamelia Lake
seven hours from the bivouac, we were resting and lunching at the
foot of the imposing rock pile which caps the mountain.
The main party had been in view on the sky line of the southwest
ridge from time to time during the morning, but for the last two or
three hours had not been seen. Our plan now was to skirt the base
of the pinnacle around to the south and join them in the "red saddle"
but they were nowhere to be seen and the intervening gully, bombarded
by a constant stream of falling stones, prevented further progress in
that direction. Returning to the northwest foot of the pinnacle we
selected a route to the summit which proved not at all difficult and
arrived a little before the main party, whom we discovered in the last
chimney of the official route, awed to silence by the fear of falling stones.
The route of our ascent is practicable for small parties without
difficulties, save in the one place below the last snow-field, where the
ascent of the rotten rock face or of the ice slope in the left hand gully
ought not to be undertaken without ropes, and then only by
careful climbers.
AAA
Pamelia Lake
By G. W. WILDER
High up in the Cascades, in a charming defile at the foot of Mt.
Jefferson, lies beautiful Lake Pamelia. An oval-shaped body of trans-
parent, crystal water about a mile in length, fringed with massive tim-
ber, it is the dream of woodsmen, fishermen and nature lovers alike.
Placid and serene, it rests between the steep and towering sides of
Grizzly Flats and the more gradual basic slopes of America's Matter-
horn. Fed by the eternal snows of the high Cascades, its pure and
sparkling waters find egress in the wild primeval canyon leading down
to the north fork of the Santiam river. Well within the boundaries of
the Santiam National Forest, far from the usual haunts of man, sur-
rounded by the virgin forests, its solitude bespeaks the untarnished
handiwork of nature.
To reach this peaceful scene of rest and contentment one leaves
the train at Detroit, the eastern terminus of the Corvallis & Eastern
Railway, and follows the trail on the old unfinished grade some ten miles
along the north bank of the Santiam river, whose cold blue waters
come pouring down the rocky canyon. For another ten miles the trail
Pamelia Lake 143
leads through timber, up hill, down hill, Indian fashion, across two
creeks to Kingfisher cabin, and then up through the forest of big firs
till, unexpectedly, one bursts out upon the shores of the wonder lake.
Thanks to the Forest Service, the trail is well defined and easy to fol-
low. Sign-boards mark the turnings and give the directions and dis-
tances. Trees are blazed along the way and the grades are easy for
both man and beast. A number of small creeks and springs furnish
abundant opportunities for rest and refreshment.
Camping among the big trees along the shore is a rare treat. The
gently sloping forest floor and the absence of thick underbrush combine
to make the choice of a camp-site almost an embarrassment, for suit-
able spots are everywhere. Plenty of wood and water, the two chief
requisites of camp life, are in abundance; while the making of a soft
bed of fir boughs is a matter of only a few minutes. Hanging moss in
huge quantities affords luxurious pillows. In the late summer months
the days are warm, but not uncomfortably so, and the nights are de-
lightfully cool and quiet. The absence of winds in this sheltered spot
leaves the air laden with forest perfumes that induce long, refreshing
dreamless sleep that makes one want to retire early and sleep late.
There is no need for tents or other shelter unless it rains, and even then,
at this high altitude, the moisture evaporates quickly, leaving every-
thing dry again.
The south shores of the lake rise precipitously a thousand feet or
more to Grizzly Flats. The slopes are partially covered with fallen
timber and an ascent is necessarily slow work. Along this side of the
lake, a trail zigzags over the fallen trunks, leading to the upper region
of Hunt's Cove, over the divide and away to Marion lake, some twenty
miles beyond. On the north side, beyond the camp-site, the shores
rise gradually for several hundred yards and then more abruptly to
the upper flats. This region is so thickly covered with fallen timber
and underbrush as to be almost impenetrable. No trail extends beyond
the dry water-course up which the Red Rag trail leads towards the
summit of Mt. Jefferson. Several attempts to go around the lake
were given up after trying to get through this maze of logs and brush.
Some of the fallen trees are real giants and tempt one to walk along on
them in the vain hope of making headway through the endless tangle
of undergrowth. They lie so thick that one may walk in any direction
without touching the ground.
Many of the fallen trees have found their way into the lake, and
the surface is dotted with them. Sometimes this mass of debris floats
to one end of the lake or collects in some cove, and the remainder of
the surface is free ; at other times it is scattered over the entire surface
144 Pamelia Lake
of the lake. Drifting silently here and there, forming new combina-
tions only to break them, it seems to be on a never-ending search for
a final resting place. Many of the trunks extend down into the water,
their stumps resting on the bottom far below ; and, as the water is clear,
it is interesting to trace the giant forms in the uncanny depths. These
snags often bar the progress of the floating timber, and fishermen who
use rafts are never sure of their routes because of the constantly chang-
ing barriers thrown in their way.
Although the water in this lake is usually cold, there are days
when the shallower parts near the shore become warm enough for very
comfortable bathing. The big logs are used in this sport; and when
they are too thickly crowded into a favorite spot, it is no small task
to clear a space large enough for a swimming pool. Diving is not
popular, as one strikes cold water a few feet beneath the surface. Riding
the logs or running from one to another, playing tag, seems to be far
more interesting. Any visitor who has not, on a trig little raft, pro-
vided with a paddle and a box, explored a greater portion of the lake,
has missed a great pleasure. Many wrecks of such craft along the
shore testify to the efforts of those who have previously visited this
charming place.
In addition to the usual surface outlet, Pamelia lake has two
underground passages leading from central portions of the lake to the
canyon about half a mile below. These subterranean outlets carry a
considerable volume of water and appear in the canyon as huge bubbling
springs. During the long summer months, the snows in the higher
altitudes recede and the incoming waters decrease in volume to such
an extent that the underground outlets carry off more than flows in.
This causes the water of the lake to lower and the surface outlet to
become dry. It is said that in a few instances the lake has almost
disappeared, or at least has been reduced to the size of a small pond.
Evidence of this may be seen in the clear water of the shallow portions
of the lake, where one can see great ditches in the bottom, cut through
the alluvial soil by the creeks after the bed of the lake has been exposed.
During autumn the rains and early snows quickly restore the lake
to its normal level, where it remains until another season. The moss
on the trees shows that during winter this region is covered with snow
to a depth of from eight to ten feet.
The flora and fauna do not differ materially from those of other
well-known districts in the Cascades. The casual observer cannot fail
to notice, however, the humming-birds and the "camp-robbers" (Ore-
gon jays), and the few but well organized "yellow-jackets," the latter
two always being in evidence at meal-times. An occasional fight be-
Mt. Jefferson from the west side of Pamelia lake. This photograph was taken in 1916, and shows
more snow on the summit than in IQI/
Photograph by Winter Photo Company
:
The famous pinnacle of Mt. Jefferson viewed from the south summit.
Note the climbers on the first slope.
Photograph by Winter Photo Company
A Trip to Three-Fingered Jack 145
tween a water-snake and a "water-dog" always attracts attention, and
hours may be spent in watching an army of ants working around an
old stump. "Spanish fly-traps" grow along the edge of the creek,
ready for unwary insects, and hosts of various little flowers, peculiar
to high altitudes, abound on the broad acres of Grizzly Flats.
Pamelia lake is a place for rest and retrospection. Here nature
has slumbered for untold centuries. Mt. Jefferson is old, as mountains
go, and there is no evidence of recent upheavals as in other portions of
the Cascades. The big fir stumps show an age of three hundred years,
which, although almost a mere instant from a geological standpoint,
shows that for some time, as measured by man's life-time, this region
has been quiet and peaceful. Here one may rest and contemplate the
beauties of nature without hardship; one's wants are few and easily
supplied. A delightful summer camping place, — quiet, secluded and
restful — memories of it awaken a longing for the gentle murmur of
the sighing boughs, the cool shade, the mirrored waters and the per-
fume-laden air. To commune with nature in this lovely spot is to have
lived, and life is better for it. To receive a new inspiration that puts
determination into the soul is well worth a sojourn amid the beautiful
surroundings of Pamelia lake.
AAA
A Trip to Three-Fingered Jack
By JOHN R. PENLAND
Of the many delightful side trips of the 1917 Mazama outing, the
pack-sack jaunt to Marion lake and Three-Fingered Jack will be re-
membered by those participating as a most eventful, pleasing and
noteworthy expedition.
On Saturday evening, August 1 1 , upon our return from the first
official climb to the summit of Mt. Jefferson, Ed and Art Peterson and
the writer decided to make an expedition southward to the Marion
lake and Three-Fingered Jack country. Accordingly, on the follow-
ing morning we made up our packs, taking enough provisions for a
three days' jaunt; and while the rest of the Mazamas were preparing
for Sunday services we set out on our journey. We followed an old
trail southeastward as far as Hunt's Cove. At this point we left the
trail, i^vung up the mountain, crossed the east end of Grizzly Flats
1 46 A Trip to Three-Fingered Jack
and then went over another ridge into Bingham Meadows. Here we
were fortunate in meeting with a sheep-herder who was familiar with
the country and who pointed out to us an old Indian trail which led
in the direction of our objective point.
The day was hot and our packs by this time were getting heavy.
The perspiration welled from every pore. But we kept persistently
on the hike except for a few minutes when, on the bank of a little stream,
we stopped for lunch and relaxed our muscles. At 5 p. m. we reached
Marion lake, a magnificent body of water about one and a half by two
miles in extent. Here, stretched upon the ground beside three small
knapsacks we found three pilgrims of the trail, who had arrived from
Detroit about five minutes ahead of us. Apparently, they were ex-
hausted from heat and the long journey; but Art declared it was worry
from lack of appropriate words in their already voluminous vocabu-
laries to describe the horrors of the trail. Knowing that a plunge in
the lake would be invigorating as well as cooling, and being of a help-
ful disposition, we invited our weary friends to take a dip with us but
their only reply was groans, accompanied by the words: "What fools
even here."
We spent a couple of hours surveying the scenery about the lake,
and then darkness drove us to camp. We crouched around the camp-
fire, talked and wondered about our Mazama friends at Camp Hardesty
on Pamelia and our families at home, exchanged a few reminiscences,
and snuggled down in our sleeping bags without even a thought of what
the morrow might be.
Morning soon appeared, and as we sat in camp on the lake shore
partaking of a real breakfast prepared by three real chefs we watched
the morning sun break over the mountain-tops and pour out its gold
upon the crystalline lake. Above the fringe of green and far in the
distance, clothed in a thin film of haze, stood Three-Fingered Jack,
stubborn and bold, seeming at first to beckon us, then to dare us,
and upon the next look to say: "You cowards!" Whereupon we deter-
mined to attack and conquer this giant. Notwithstanding the fact
that we had just circled Mt. Jefferson, crossed her dangerous glaciers
and climbed her lofty and perilous summit, we realized that this, with-
out doubt, would prove to be the most prodigious task of all. Accord-
ingly, at 6 a. m. we set out, unhampered by pack-sacks and determined
to prove or disprove the questionable statement of man's ability to
conquer this monster.
The trail led us along the north and east border of the lake, across
numerous cataracts and waterfalls, through dense forests, clouds of
mosquitoes and out into an old burn. We were gaining elevation con-
A Trip to Three-Fingered Jack 147
stantly. The country was becoming more open and the scenery more
splendid. The trail was on the west side of the mountain and about
a mile from its base. We could see from a distance that ascent from the
north or west would be impossible, so we left the trail on the west and
followed a southeasterly course. Then, unexpectedly, we discovered
that we were in a natural park; prairies, meadows, clumps of trees,
lakes and myriads of flowers which, with their various and innumerable
hues, made a gorgeous picture in the sunlight — a feast for artist or
botanist.
We next crossed a snow-field, and at this point the real climb
began; first, a long, steep stretch of loose, sliding rock, which not only
tested the muscles but also the soundness of the lungs and heart.
We were now on the main divide of the Cascades separating
western from central Oregon. This divide consists of domes, spires
and knife-like ridges of hard lava, volcanic ash and pumice-stone.
The climbing here was not extremely difficult, although at times some-
what slow and dangerous, the ridge being in some places so narrow and
sharp that it was necessary to resort to crawling. At length we came
to a pinnacle which seemed impassable on either side or over the top.
Here we found a small can in which were recorded two names, with
the date, "July, IQIO." A few feet away another name was found.
All hope of going further seemed futile. Realizing that we now
had more need for prayer-books than for alpenstocks, we stacked arms.
Determined that no possible passage-way should escape us, we crept
along a narrow ledge under the hanging wall on the east, and from here
we made a slide for a narrow tilted ledge some distance below us. We
then scaled some seventy-five feet to the top of an almost perpendicu-
lar wall 2500 or 3000 feet in height. A few minutes later we were at
the base of the topmost spires; the highest towering about eighty feet
above us, the next highest about forty feet. In a few seconds we had
agreed that the tall spire was "unclimbable" without the aid of tools
and ropes with which we were unprovided. We climbed to the top of
the next highest, took two or three photographs, left a small box con-
taining a record of our ascent, and returned by the route by which we
ascended.
I live not in myself, but I become
Portion of that around me; and to me
High mountains are a feeling, but the hum
Of human cities torture.
— Byron
A War-time Ascent of Mont Blanc
By J. MONROE THORINGTON
American Ambulance Corps, 1917
It is with some hesitation that one writes of climbing adventures
already described in the early periods of Alpine history; the days of
crowding tourists, with mountaineering equipment consisting so largely
of guide-books and basket lunches, do not form an attractive back-
ground for mountain adventure, however thrilling. Nowadays, the
true Alpinist, peculiar creature, often prefers to remain by his own
fireside, dreaming of old battles with great peaks and of days full of
joy in the solitude and grandeur of nature, when high heels at high
altitudes were things unknown.
But now, with the period of the great world war, there develops
a new page in mountaineering history — a page not so enthralling as
earlier ones, perhaps, but resembling them. The ever present "tripper"
has vanished from the land of high peaks; many a one, God knows,
gone to give up his life for ideals higher and nobler than any which
have ever inspired the mind of a mere mountaineer.
And yet it is with a sense of relief that one strolls over an Alpine
meadow in the absence of luncheon debris and without having sublime
thoughts disturbed by the weird noises from a Teutonic mouth-organ.
Gone for the present is the tourist and closed are the expensive
mountain inns which are the curse of an economical Alpinist. The
towering mountains are again in silence and are beckoning; history is
in a measure repeating itself; and for those whose memory reflects old
days amongst great peaks and silent unfrequented valleys, this little
sketch is written.
In tourist days, the ascent of Mont Blanc brings forth little com-
ment. In its way, it is recognized as one of the "stunts" which must
be attempted by any visitor to Chamonix who is either slightly out of
his mind or who openly boasts of his powers of pedestrianism. The
average tourist, however, generally finds that the trip to the Grand
Mulcts is quite sufficient for all purposes, and returns thence leaving
the upper snows untrodden and with vastly changed ideas concerning
the difficulties of mountaineering in general.
In war time, however, things are a bit different; the Grand Mulcts
is closed and the scarcity of climbers makes six or seven ascents a record
season for Mont Blanc. A party setting out for the mountain is a
novelty; climbers are watched through telescopes from the valley, and
A War-time Ascent of Mont Blanc 149
on returning are looked upon with admiration and awe by the few
summer visitors.
When we started in August, 1917, for a week of climbing in the
Chamonix district, it was with very little hope of making an attempt
on Mont Blanc; the weather had been unusually bad and the fall of
new snow was very large. However, my guide, Favret, was optimis-
tic, and came around one evening when the weather looked very un-
certain, insisting that we make ready to start on the morrow. It
seemed absurd to me, but he won the argument, and the next day
was clear.
I was introduced to the second guide, Claret-Tournier — the wildest
looking person imaginable, short and smiling, with red hair and a pair
of black and white checked pantaloons which would have made an
English sporting tailor turn green with envy. Tournier, however,
proved to be a most capable and companionable fellow and later suc-
ceeded in bringing four liters of wine intact over the crevasses of the
Bossons glacier to the Grand Mulcts, a feat for which I have only
profound admiration and respect.
We started out of Chamonix with heavy packs and with feet
which, for all our hobnails, seemed very light. The trail leads through
a beautiful forest, carpeted with moss and pine needles, toward the
cascade du Dard and the Bossons Glacier, the tip of the latter seen
ahead of us as it comes far down in the valley and encroaches on the
nearby village. Mounting rapidly in zigzags, the trail leads into the
most unexpected places; into dark mossy nooks wet with the spray of
silvery waterfalls, through the forest, and out again over luxuriant
mountain meadows with old ruined chalets and a view of the valley.
The morning sun made us remember that our packs were loaded,
and our progress was therefore most leisurely. And then, too, the
crevassed icefall of the Bossons Glacier, the corniced snow arete of the
Aiguille du Midi above us and the jagged soaring pinnacles of the great
aiguilles further eastward, are natural beauties too wonderful to pass
by in haste.
We turned the corner at the Pierre Pointue inn, closed as was the
Montanvert, and continued up the trail, which now became narrower
and steeper. The rocks of the Grand Mulcts, hitherto hidden by the
Bossons icefall, became visible as we ascended, but the peak of Mont
Blanc had apparently receded and was quite out of sight, the peak of
the Dome du Gouter dominating the view ahead.
We stopped for lunch at the last grass slope, beside a sparkling
stream rushing down from the Aiguille du Midi, and paradoxically
lightened our burdens by the transfer of food from our packs into our
1 50 A War-time Ascent of Mont Blanc
own interiors. This being accomplished in the thorough manner known
only to mountaineers, we proceeded, crossing several turbid glacial
brooks and much toilsome morainal debris on our way to the edge of
the glacier.
The first stretch of ice is almost level, dirt-covered and with no
crevasse of any importance. There is a complete system of surface
drainage, with little cascades pouring down the seracs and ending in
crystal-clear rills and rivulets which cut channels in the surface of the
blue ice and finally disappear with a rush into some underground chasm
to join the subglacial streams below.
It was quite a walk over the ice before a wide crevasse required
the use of a rope, and from that time on the real pleasures of the day
began. We cut steps down the sides of a huge crevasse to a narrow
slanting ridge which gave us a fragile path to the snow on the other
side, up which we climbed, giving careful attention to the rope and with
fingers numb from attempts to find handholds in the ice. This was
our first difficulty, but we met no other in crossing the little snow-filled
basin which leads in a series of miniature plateaus to the junction of
the Bossons with the glacier de Taconnaz.
Here, however, we were soon in the midst of great seracs and tower-
ing ice pinnacles of the most fantastic shape, some apparently needing
only a breath of wind to send them crashing down upon us, We
passed through an icy corridor and stopped to admire a huge arch of
snow at least fifty feet high, like a great window through which we
looked out at the blue sky and a part of the valley beneath.
The crevasses became enormous, but a zigzag route brought us
through without difficulty. The slope was now quite steep, and our
sky-line ahead was broken by jutting rocks, on a corner of which we
could make out the Grand Mulcts cabin.
We arrived at the great crevasse bridged by a rickety wooden
ladder, and crossed on all fours, gazing down about two hundred feet
into blue depths lined with glistening icicles which seemed ready to
impale one in case of a slip. Then came some easy slopes leading up-
ward by a winding path through crevasses which had seemed impass-
able from below, and bringing us to a particularly nasty-looking place
which for a moment seemed as if it would necessitate a wide detour in
search of a new route. A great crevasse lay before us, bridged by an
insecure ribbon of snow which ended blindly in an overhanging snow
wall on the far side.
Favret at last solved the difficulty by cautiously crossing the
bridge, cutting steps in the snow wall and traversing sideways for about
twenty feet to a notch through which he wriggled out of sight. He
A War-time Ascent of Mont Blanc 1 5 1
anchored, and we followed one by one, making good use of our ice axes
to secure ourselves. The notch in the little snow cornice gave us
trouble for the moment, as the snow was soft and our hands were al-
most numb with cold. Once on top, however, we found easy snow
slopes leading up to the Grand Mulcts.
We had the cabin all to ourselves, and in fact had to smash the
lock of the door to get in. Everything appeared to be in good order
and there were no signs of recent visitors. We built a roaring fire in
the kitchen stove and soon had our wet clothing steaming above, while
we sat comfortably near and toasted our toes. Then Tournier brought
out the provisions and wine, quite unhurt, and we heaved a sigh of
relief and contentment.
Evening came on before we realized it, deepening the blue color-
ing of the crevasses in the glacier around us, while the gleaming white
snows of the Dome and the peak of Mont Blanc gradually shaded into
a delicate pink which turned to fiery red as the sun set over the shadowed
valley westward. The coloring extended to the rocks of the Aiguille
du Midi, Mont Blanc du Tacul and to other peaks nearby, gradually
changing to purple, blue and finally to a leaden grey.
It grew cold rapidly and we were glad to retreat to the fire, where
Favret was busily at work over a huge kettle of steaming soup. We
crawled into our bunks very early in the evening, both because we were
tired and because it is necessary to start for Mont Blanc at an hour of
the morning which, to say the least, is not respectable.
It is frankly admitted that no one of us, even the guides, slept
very much that night. First one and then another would prowl out
to have a look at the weather, in spite of the fact that the sky was cloud-
less above the dull white snows of the Dome, while far below us in the
valley the lights of the villages gleamed and twinkled like reflections
of the stars above us.
The alarm clock went off with a bang at one a. m., finding us
quite ready to get started. Favret already had the fire crackling in
the stove, and hot tea and toast were soon before us, momentarily
demanding our entire attention.
We made use of the trench trick of covering our socks with paper
before putting on our shoes, and later in the day confirmed the opinion
of others that it is a great protection against cold. The guides lit two
small lanterns and roped us together before leaving the cabin; and then,
with everything in order, we started.
The snow was frozen hard and we made rapid progress upward,
the flickering lanterns casting weird and gigantic shadows among the
seracs and crevasses about us, while far below we could see the lights
152 A War-time Ascent of Mont Blanc
of towns in the valley. It is remarkable how steep a perfectly easy
gradient will appear when one's only source of illumination is an in-
direct light coming from between the legs of the man ahead.
We climbed for nearly an hour through crevasses and up steep
snow slopes toward the Dome, until a sudden gust of wind extinguished
our only sources of illumination. Stumbling along in the darkness,
we reached a more sheltered spot where it was possible to relight the
lanterns, but the guides then admitted that we must have wandered
considerably from the route. Not being willing to retrace their steps,
they tackled a steep wall of snow ahead, cutting nearly two hundred
steps to the top and bringing us out, to the surprise of all, at the slope
which leads directly to the Petit Plateau. The short cut had saved us
nearly an hour's hard climbing.
It grew light as we entered upon the plateau and the lanterns were
extinguished. We passed on up the long and weary slopes to the
Grand Plateau, resting a few minutes before circling the base of the
Dome du Gouter toward the Col du Dome. The snowy peak of Mont
Blanc, rising across the Grand Plateau, was red in the morning light
and the sun reached us as we cut steps up a little icy slope into the pass
and climbed up toward the Vallot refuge.
We had a second breakfast in the rocks below, warming ourselves
in the sunlight and kicking our half-frozen feet together to restore
circulation. The Vallot cabin was snowed up solidly; and being un-
able to obtain entrance, .we continued on toward the snow ridge of the
Grand Bosse du Dromadaire. This, in the early morning, had a very
evil look, and the frozen arete required a great deal of laborious step-
cutting. In spite of the energy of Tournier, the icy wind prevented
rapid progress, and we spent nearly half an hour in getting to the top.
Then, over flat snow slopes and the easy ridge of the Petit Bosse,
the route leads to a knife-edge of snow, known as the Mauvais Arete.
This is undoubtedly the most dangerous portion of the ascent, requir-
ing a hundred-foot traverse on a frozen snow slope so steep that a slip
could not possibly be checked and would probably send the entire
party slithering down four thousand feet to the Italian glacier du
Miage. . It was a pleasure to see Tournier for once cutting steps
which would hold one's entire foot.
The distances on the last portion of the ascent are most deceptive,
the peak of Mont Blanc seeming constantly to recede, but our worst
difficulty was soon behind us and we made our way over the slopes to
the long final arete and were soon on the summit.
We had a cloudless day, and the view could not have been more
perfect. Northward, over Mont Blanc du Tacul, we could see a cor-
A War-time Ascent of Mont Blanc 153
ner of Lake Geneva and the triple peaks of the Dent du Midi. Far
over the Mer de Glace and the Aiguille Verte, we could distinguish the
Jungfrau and the Finsteraarhorn among the.Oberland peaks. More
to the eastward, snowy Monte Rosa, the rocky tooth of the Matter-
horn, and many other Zermatt giants appeared. Southward, we looked
across the Italian glaciers to the peaks of the Graian and Maritime
Alps, while to the southwest lay the grim serrated wall of the Dauphine
peaks, with the Meije, Ecrins and Monte Pelvoux easily singled out.
The western view has the summit ridge in the foreground, with the Jura
and the plains of France stretching to the horizon.
Everything seemed far below us, and it was hard to believe that
the low rocky ridge to the north-east was the Aiguille-massif which
soars skyward above the valley of Chamonix. A cold wind sweeping
up across the Brenva glacier cut short our stay on the summit and we
started down with a rush, reaching the Col du Dome in a little over
thirty-five minutes. The difficulties during descent, contrary to ex-
pectation, were much less apparent than in the reverse direction.
It was warm and sunny in the pass and we rested for half an hour
in the glistening snow-saddle before descending. Then, taking the
steepest slopes of snow, we glissaded rapidly down into the tremendous
basin of the Grand Plateau, passing onward to the Petit Plateau, where
we stopped to pick up our lanterns, which we had stowed away on a
convenient serac earlier in the day. Then on downward, knee-deep
through the snow, soft and wet in the afternoon sun, a shower of
spray following us as we glissaded toward the Grand Mulcts.
Arriving, we gathered our extra belongings together and demolished
what little still remained of our provisions. Leaving the cabin ship-
shape, another hour brought us to the trail at the edge of the ice and
in two hours more we were walking through the woods close to Cha-
monix. We had conquered Mont Blanc, but we had been traveling
many hours and, in spite of ourselves, thoughts of the inner man tended
to crowd out more sublime ideas.
A tremendous amount of food and a good bed brought us forth in
the morning with a better balanced sense of proportion. Mont Blanc
rose cloudless in the sunlight, and through a telescope we could pick
out our tracks as high as the Bosses du Dromadaire. Our respect for
the wonderful mountain had increased immensely.
But our climbing was over. Our leave of absence had nearly ex-
pired, and we were soon to be back in our places. It is a far cry from
the peaceful quiet of the mountains to a hospital full of wounded sol-
diers. We tried for the moment not to think of wounded men.
1 54 With the Prairie Club in Glacier Park
Before leaving, we gave our guides a real party in honor of our
successful week, and we waved goodbye as our train pulled out of the
little station. As we rumbled down the valley, the Chamonix Aiguilles
rose behind us in a serrated massif sharply outlined against the sky,
while the gleaming snowy heights of Mont Blanc seemed to bid us a
farewell and to invite our return. But, somehow, I cannot but think
that our next visit to the Alps will be just a little bit different from our
"war-time vacation." C'est la Guerre!
AAA
Mont Blanc is the monarch of mountains ;
They crowned him long ago
On a throne of rocks, in a robe of clouds,
With a diadem of snow.
— Byron
AAA
With the Prairie Club in Glacier Park
By LAURA H. PETERSON
After a two days' journey in a special car over the Great Northern,
there arrived at Glacier Park, Montana, on the evening of August 4,
1917, a happy party of thirty men and women. They were members
of the Prairie Club of Chicago on their annual western outing. They
had chosen for this year the newest park under federal supervision,
and had decided to begin the journey from the eastern entrance, which
is far more attractive than that by way of Belton. The approach is
along the banks of the Flathead river, and from the train can be seen
glimpses of the mountains; at first mere hills, which seem, however,
to grow gradually higher until one is in the very heart of the Rockies.
At the station were seen several of the Blackfeet Indian guides with
their glistening black braids and gay-colored bandannas. Sometimes
may of them come from the neighboring reservation to sing and dance
dimes out of the pockets of the tourists.
The prospectus of this trip had announced that the personnel of
the party would include members of the Prairie Club, non-members
who were vouched for by them, and persons affiliated with other out-
ing organizations. The writer was glad to be welcomed as a member
of a sister club, the Mazamas, and to be given all the privileges ac-
corded one of their own number.
The evening of our arrival was the only opportunity we had to
inspect the attractive Glacier Park hotel, situated but a stone's throw
from the station. It is completely finished with huge fir logs and deco-
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Sperry glacier. Glacier National Park
With the Prairie Club in Glacier Park 155
rated with buffalo and bear skins, while from the ceiling hang elec-
trically lit Japanese lanterns. Grouped about are potted pines and
in the center a cheerful indoor camp-fire. We were loath to leave this
spot, but our schedule called for an early start on August 5, so we
laid aside all thoughts of business cares and responsibilities and in
khaki and boots plentifully hobbed began our tramp through the
park.
Yes, there are automobiles and horses too, so that each traveler may
have his choice of modes of travel. The autoist, however, will see
but little of the real beauty spots, for the roads skirt the region and
allow stops at but few places. Nothing but a trail was good enough
for Prairie Club people and there were surely plenty of trails; rocky,
to be sure, but wide, safe and plain, so that there was no danger of
becoming lost. Sometimes these paths wind up a valley beside a splash-
ing stream; then they zig-zag up a mountain side. Sometimes they
cross snowfields, and again they wander deep into the woods and
through flowery meadows that rival the parks about Rainier.
Our trail the first day led us over Mt. Henry. The party was
lined up in true Mazama style with an official leader and a rear-guard;
each with a whistle to signal for occasional rests as we trudged up the
flank of the mountain. Although it was only 8,875 feet in elevation,
many of us at the end of the two weeks' tramping, looked back to this
as the hardest thing we had done. It was this walk which tested our
endurance, the distance we could cover in a day, and the pace we must
keep up in order to accomplish our daily schedule.
Our start was never earlier than eight o'clock, and it was neces-
sary to reach the days' destination by dinner time. For the first two
weeks we slept and took our meals at the various hotels and chalets
situated at convenient intervals through the park. Within a few
days everyone was in condition and ready for the average walk of
eighteen or twenty miles a day. Trails in Glacier Park are excellent
places to develop knee troubles, and very few of our party escaped.
So general was the affliction that, at the suggestion of one of our num-
ber, we formed a branch of the main club and gave it a real Greek
name, "Nu Kappa Psi." Nearly every mountain trip furnished us
with new members.
One day was spent in and about Two Medicine camp, with a
side trip of fourteen miles to Dawson pass. A snowstorm was en-
countered there; the only bad weather of the entire trip. In spite of
the fact that it took all afternoon and evening to dry out, we felt
thoroughly repaid; for during this excursion we saw our first bear,
tracking through the new-fallen snow.
156 With the Prairie Club in Glacier Park
The following days' trip was all the more beautiful becausejof
this snowfall. Every flower held its chalice of ice, and the bleak sides
of Rising Wolf mountain kept their soft white blanket. Access is
gained from this valley to the next by Cut Bank pass, a rocky ridge
only thirty feet in width and justifying the name "Backbone of the
World," given to all this region by the Indians. Down on each side,
3,000 feet below, is a marvelously beautiful blue lake. It was indeed
with the greatest reluctance that we left this ledge and began our
descent into the neighboring valley.
Our attention was here called to the geology of this section. All
through the park there are innumerable lakes, blue, clear and cold.
Over 250 of them hide among the rocky hills; some of them forming long
chains through the valleys as far as the eye can reach; others filled
with floating ice, as is Iceberg lake; while many of them are situated
just as this one near Cut Bank pass. They lie in the perfectly formed
cirques made by the action of glaciers which, though small now, must
at one time have been much larger and have cut into the sides of the
mountain and then, as they advanced, left behind these symmetri-
cal circular basins. It is here, also, that one sees for the first time
examples of the so-called Lewis overthrust. Geologists tell us that
it belongs peculiarly to Glacier National Park; that the western rocks,
pushed up and over those to the east, and then the pushing of the
mountain rocks over those of the plains produced a wrinkling or over-
thrust fault. The more recent movements were very strong, and the
rocks were forced up a great distance. Then the intense stress caused
the crust to begin to move, and the strata broke in several places.
Later, the streams wore away the softer rocks and left the precipitous
walls of limestone as we see them now. This uplifted mass has been
carved by the action of the water, and gradually the huge valleys
are formed, with their chains of lakes and streams. One of the curious
results of this action of the water is seen in the double cascade of Trick
falls. The water disappears in the ground some distance above the
waterfall, reappearing again through a slit in the face of the rock,
while on occasions when the volume of water is great, it comes tumbling
over the top of the cliff at the same time, thus forming a double cas-
cade which justifies its name.
Of course we had a row (please pronounce the V long) on St.
Mary's lake, perhaps one of the best known spots of the park. We
enjoyed our trips on the various lakes, particularly McDermott and
MacDonald. Several of the glaciers were visited, though we were
unable to study Blackfoot, the largest one. In the spring of this year
a great avalanche had swept down, destroying the Gunsight chalet,
With the Prairie Club in Glacier Park 157
which was the stopping place at that point. This made it necessary
for us to make in one day a trip which originally was planned to cover
parts of two days, with some time on the glacier. Sperry glacier,
however, affords one a taste of the real thing. Whether you climb
the bold scarpment by the iron ladder fastened to the rocks with huge
bolts, or take the goat trail over the snow-field, you will have some
respect for the guide, with his ice-axe and life rope, as he leads you
gingerly over the blind crevasses and carefully around the open ones.
Our trip was not all strenuous tramping. No matter how hard
or long the trail had been, some of the party might always be found
after dinner in the ballroom of the hotel or chalet; and neither tired
knees, bedroom slippers nor khaki trousers barred us from the floor.
No restrictions as to hours were imposed, provided we were ready
in time for the next day's start.
The only baggage taken was stowed in small duffle bags which
were transported part of the way by wagon and part by pack-horse.
Due to the careful management of Mr. Henry Leissler, chairman of
the outing committee, no dunnage bags were lost or missing when their
owners daily rushed to find them just before the dinner-bell rang. A
move every day means unpacking and packing the bags every twenty-
four hours, and any who have had such an experience for three weeks
will not wonder that we soon called them "devil" bags.
There were many real mazamas in the park, but they all traveled
too high and too fast for ordinary hikers. Most of the time we could
see them picking their way cautiously along lofty, rocky ridges in
search of tufts of grass and herbs which persisted to the very tops [ of
the almost bare rocky mountains. At Granite Park,^however' we met
a Mazama of another kind at close range. This was our friend Dr.
Barck, of St. Louis. He shared our camp-fire one evening and gave
us information as to accessible points of interest in the vicinity.
Granite Park is a poor place to suggest for any very strenuous
mountain work; it is such a wonderful spot that it holds you there.
The little Swiss chalet nestles almost at the "ridge-pole of the roof
of America," just at the foot of the famous Garden Wall. All about
are magnificent, snow-crowned peaks, and down below is virgin forest.
It is without doubt the finest place in the entire region. Sunrise over
the Garden Wall gives a feeling never to be forgotten, and sunset over
Heaven's Peak makes you want to linger there forever.
Over every pass we went until we quite appreciated Mary Roberts
Rinehart's definition of a pass as "a place where the impossible be-
comes barely possible." At the end of two weeks the party divided,
some of them starting homeward and others going into the western
158 A Trip to Crater Lake on Skis
and northern parts of the park on a real camping trip where trails are
few and difficult. There they surely were at the top of the continent;
traveling on or near the irregular crest line, close neighbors of the
continental divide, which we had already crossed several times during
the first two weeks. The last climb of the final two weeks, up and
over two passes in one day, Gunsight and Lincoln, skirting the edge
of the highest lake in the park, Lake Ellen Wilson, to Sperry chalet
and then down to Lake MacDonald and out of the park, brought to
a close one of the most pleasant outings ever participated in by the
writer; and every member of the party felt that there is truly a feeling
of fellowship in the swing of a shoulder-pack and the clatter of hob-
nailed boots.
AAA
A Trip to Crater Lake on Skis
By R. L. GLISAN
Crater lake has always proved a powerful magnet in drawing me
there at different seasons, and I have made my pilgrimages in various
ways — by wagon, horseback, mule-team, auto and snow-shoes. I de-
cided last March to attempt the trip on skis. I knew that only a
camera-crazed enthusiast would venture there in the face of a threatened
snowstorm, and I found such an individual in Frank I. Jones.
We left Portland Saturday evening, March 10, 1917, registering
at the White Pelican hotel, Klamath Falls, the following evening. We
left there Monday morning on the branch railroad. It was a cold,
clear day. We followed the shore of Upper Klamath lake, Mt. Shasta
and Mt. McLoughlin, better known as Mt. Pitt, appearing across the
broad white expanse, for the lake was a solid sheet of snow-covered ice.
Autos had crossed repeatedly; ski tracks were visible, closely parallel-
ing the shore, and bands of cattle were seen traveling along the ice,
drinking at water holes cut in the thick ice. Ducks, herons and an
occasional pelican rose from the larger water spaces, where hot springs
kept the ice open.
At Chiloquin we bundled into a straw-filled sleigh; thirteen per-
sons occupied the seats, with a big red rooster in a crate as rear guard
and superstition chaser. The snow was well packed, the grade easy,
and the horses hardly slackened speed as we glided through the pine
forest to the edge of Klamath marsh, on past the Indian agency, and
the picturesque site of the old fort, arriving at the small town of Fort
A Trip to Crater Lake on Skis 159
Klamath in such brief time that we regretted the thirteen miles were
not doubled.
On the way we saw large bands of cattle, patiently standing in
long runways cleared in the snow, where the rapidly lessening hay was
sparingly doled out in the meagre hope of the scanty supply lasting
longer than the snow. Calves, just born, staggering on bent, unsteady
legs, made the sight more pathetic.
The snow had gradually deepened to over four feet as we neared
Fort Klamath. Mr. Kirkpatrick welcomed us at the hotel bearing his
name. The temperature that morning was five degrees below zero;
on the first of the month it had been twenty degrees below.
The outlook Tuesday morning was not promising. Over a foot
of snow had fallen during the night. It was still snowing, and the
heavy gray sky gave no assurance of any immediate change for the better.
We took the sleigh four miles to the Copeland place at the end of the
beaten road.
Breaking road was no sinecure. Nine men and twenty horses had
averaged only two miles a day on another road they were opening for
travel. At 8:45 we continued our way on skis. Our packs averaged
over thirty-five pounds each, Jones' camera equipment for color photog-
raphy being more than twenty pounds. I also had my camera and
tripod. In addition to the provisions and personal effects, we had
snow-shoes strapped on our packs, for emergency use.
At the Scott place we stopped to chat with five young trappers,
and inspected their winter catch of fox and marten skins. We then
pushed on through the soft snow, taking turns breaking trail through
the pine forest. Another snowstorm about mid-afternoon shut out the
sun and we looked for mile posts or signs. Cheered by the sight of
a blue enameled sign on a near-by pine, we turned aside to investigate.
After poking the snow away I unearthed, or rather unsnowed, an ice-
cream sign. For the first time it failed to awaken a responsive chord.
About five o'clock a peaked snow mound, rising slightly above the level,
announced our destination. A shovel thrust in the snow under the
peak gave us the means to clear an entrance, and we soon ferreted below
and entered the cabin of the Wildcat ranger station at the park entrance.
A fire soon warmed the cabin, which being deeply encased in snow re-
tained the heat all night.
Wednesday morning promised fair, sunshine and blue sky following
a starlit night. We left our snow-shoes behind as useless luggage
and started up the road, tall, high-crested yellow pines casting long
shadows on a spotless floor of white. Soon we neared the rim of Anna
Creek canyon, frequently enticed to the very edge for the enchanting
160 A Trip to Crater Lake on Skis
view of the stream, a green twisting ribbon far below. White slopes
alternated with sheer walls of colored rock, columns and spires up-
thrusting here and there.
The sun, at first most welcome, became too effusive, and the
softened snow stuck in wads on our skis, requiring abusive whacks
from our poles to dislodge it; our energy being finally equally divided
between the forward push of the ski and the sideblow of the pole.
Resting at high noon, we tramped wells for our feet, sat on our
skis, nibbled lunch and cussed and discussed our situation. In despair,
turning the skis over we rubbed off the snow and rubbed on some
prepared floor wax, and, to our great relief, found they gave the snow
the slip.
After seven hours of continuous plodding, having failed to make
Bridge creek, which we understood was half way, we cached our camera
equipment and provisions, hanging them from a high branch out of
reach of the pine martens, whose tracks had evidenced their roving
disposition. Another hour, and we reached the deep-set curve where
a timber-cribbecj opening under a deep floor of snow showed us Bridge
creek, the only bridge on the road. We found out later that this was
five and three-quarter miles from Wild Cat.
Passing the Garden of the Gods, made doubly impressive by the
long afternoon shadows pointing clear across the canyon and up towards
the sentinel peaks, which guard Crater lake rim, inspired by the view
we pushed on. It was after sunset when we reached Headquarters,
where we were most cordially welcomed by H. E. Momyer, our coming
having been announced by the reverberation of the telephone wire
which we struck as we stooped to unfasten our skis.
Fourteen feet of snow on the level necessitated going down a snow
stairway to the front door. Mr. Momyer, as acting superintendent
of the park, was in charge, monarch of all he surveyed, his only com-
panions, bluejays, feathered camp robbers, and a pine marten, all so
tame that a robber ate from his hand, and the marten overcame all
caution in his eagerness to secure scraps of the fresh meat we had
brought. His dark lithe body appeared like a shifting silhouette
against the snow stairway.
Thursday morning registered seven degrees above zero — clear, cold
and snappy. We left after breakfast to reclaim our cache. Gliding
easily down the tracks of yesterday without any appreciable effort, we
passed the Garden of the Gods, in and out rounding every down curve,
by Bridge creek, and all too soon checked our speed as we saw our cache
hanging safe above the marten tracks. Our cameras secured, we photo-
graphed the trees loaded with yesterday's snow, lunched on our return
Views on ski trip to Crater lake. Upper — Llao and Mt. Thielsen. Middle — The Watchman,
Llao and Wizard island. Lower — Crater Lake Lodge.
Photographs by R. L. Glisan
ju 3
I!
A Trip to Crater Lake on Skis 161
at Bridge creek, lowering a flask by a long cord to draw water from the
south or California side, which we called the wet side, as we failed to
fill it on the Oregon side. The day proved as easy as the previous day
had been strenuous, and the sun and blue sky were a marked contrast
to the clouds with which we started. It seemed incredible there could
be such a difference.
Friday proved another perfect day. We leisurely made the engi-
neer's camp just below the river and stopped at the shelter cabin
courteously left available for winter visitors. The peak of the high-
pitched roof rose a few feet above the snow, resembling a fair-sized dog
kennel. Again we ferreted down, opening a small trap-door under the
peak. On the upper floor was a bed with comforters. Descending a
wall ladder into the dark abyss below, we lighted a lantern, and rejoiced
at the sight of a snug pile of firewood. The stove started, the cabin
was heated in short order and retained the heat like a fireless cooker.
In the afternoon, we went up the low gap where the old road meandered
to the rim, and came out on the lake at the base of Castle Crest. The
sun was setting, giving a warm glow to the snow in the light, and cold
grey to the snow in shadow. In the shadow below lay Wizard island, a
white cone; The Watchman, Glacier and Llao rose on the western rim,
kindled by the last rays, which in turn brought out Thielsen in sharp
relief to the north, with blue sky above. The scene was sublime, one
feature only missing — the marvelous blue of the lake. To our great
surprise, the lake was frozen, fully three-quarters of its surface being
ice-covered. We had been told that the lake never froze, and could
not freeze, because of its phenomenal depth, constant temperature and
surface-ruffling winds. It was a great disappointment to Jones, with
his color plates. To me the unexpected was the more appreciated.
A biting wind came with sunset. My tripod froze and refused
to close. Our gloves stiffened with the cold. Hastily we slipped our
parkas over our shoulders and drew the monk hoods over our heads.
Thus enveloped, we were soon in a glow again. While Jones waited
for the sun to reappear under a low banked cloud, I returned to the
shelter cabin to prepare supper. Following down the ravine, along the
sides of which the old road coursed, having to check my speed with
the poles as brakes, I soon came out at the head of the valley, picked
up our ski tracks, reached the cabin, and had supper ready by the
time Jones returned. He had more difficulty in the uncertain light
and stiffer snow crust.
Saturday morning, an overcast sky prevented sunrise views. We
returned to the rim after an early breakfast, and spent the morning
along the rim photographing the lake below and Crater lake lodge with
1 62 From Hood to Jefferson in April
its snow banks reaching up to the front dormer windows. Shasta and
Union peaks appeared to the south, from different points on the road
leading westward along the rim towards the Watchman. The sun fre-
quently burst through the white clouds to reward our patience. Re-
turning, we skied down the slope traversed by the new road, to the
shelter cabin, for a late lunch. We then returned to Headquarters.
Sunday found a slight snow falling, giving a cushion for the skis
and smoothing out irregularities. Reluctantly bidding our host fare-
well, we started down to Fort Klamath.
Our skis needed no urging and no guiding. Down the broad road
and around the broad curves on a gently descending grade they kept
the deep grooves, so arduously made on the ascent, and nothing could
ever be more wonderfully enchanting and exhilarating. Spending over
an hour at Wild Cat, another hour at the trapper's cabin, after crossing
the broad Klamath marsh with the range of peaks beyond the broad
white sheet, we lingered twenty minutes at the Sisemore ranch, photo-
graphing the band of elk left there by the state warden. We reached
Fort Klamath in ample time for the Sunday chicken dinner, our keen-
edged appetite prompting us to render ample justice. Another enjoy-
able sleigh ride on Monday morning brought us into Chiloquin for the
train, returning to Klamath Falls for the night and taking the train
Tuesday for Portland.
AAA
From Hood to Jefferson in April
By CHESTER H. TREICHEL
On April 2, 1917, Dean Van Zandt, C. E. Blakney and I left
Portland on the interurban train for Bull Run, to begin a trip from
Mt. Hood to Mt. Jefferson. We wore water-proof mackinaws, khaki
trousers, and high-top boots. We carried sixty-pound packs, besides
our alpenstocks, ice-axes, snow-shoes and skis; we also had one small
toboggan, which we were to take turns in carrying.
After a night at Aschoff's, we set out the next morning for Casa
Monte. We arrived here about six in the evening, after a difficult
day. The roads were muddy and tedious. The following morning,
April 4, we struck off through the soft snow, about a foot deep, near
Rhododendron. We loaded all our packs on the toboggan, taking
turns alternately pulling and pushing it; but we decided at the end of
the day that carrying our packs on our backs was far less tiring, and
From Hood to Jefferson in April 163
accordingly we abandoned the toboggan at Cold Springs, before going
on to Government Camp, where we spent the ensuing night.
Our hosts here took us out for several hours' skiing the next day.
We were very awkward and had any number of spills and tumbles in
the soft snow, but we refused to be discouraged.
Another morning found us striking out at eight a. m. for the
summit of Mt. Hood, which rose bold and clear before us. We wore
snow-shoes and dragged our skis, reaching timber-line in less than two
hours. Here we left the skis. Traveling became much slower, owing
to increased steepness. Wonderful views stretched away from us in
all directions. Mt. Jefferson loomed in the distance among surround-
ing hills, all covered with uninterrupted snowfall of many days.
When we were about two-thirds of the way up, the air suddenly
became bitterly cold and storm clouds enveloped us, sweeping down
from the summit of the mountain. We could not see farther than a
few feet in any direction. We kept on climbing, nevertheless, and at
two p. m. reached the base of Crater rock. Having made no prepara-
tions for spending the night on the summit, we decided that it would
be folly to attempt to go farther under such conditions. Accordingly
we retraced our steps back toward camp. The storm increased in
fury. Only by exercising careful judgment in keeping just to the right
of White River glacier and in constantly relying upon our compasses,
were we able to reach the place where we had left our skis. We put
these on, and continued our downward journey in a series of sudden
starts and plunges into snow banks. Finally, however, after following
Zigzag canyon for a couple of miles, we became fairly proficient in the
art of making graceful curves on skis, and we reached Government
Camp in time for supper.
Mr. Fox and Mr. Pridemore started out with us the next day, but
left us at the Summit House, whence we plodded on alone, through the
white forests and twelve or fifteen feet of snow. We made good time in
reaching Big Meadows, keeping up a slow but steady march. We made
our camp under a clump of large firs which gave good protection from
storm. We had fir-bough mattresses and slept warm and snug in our
sleeping bags. We rose next morning to realize that it was Easter
Sunday. Several more inches of snow had fallen during the night.
We broke camp about eight o'clock, after a good breakfast. Con-
ditions for skiing were not at their best. It was necessary to climb
a grade of several miles to the summit. We encountered much diffi-
culty in getting over logs and crossing a number of ravines. We had
planned to reach Clackamas Lake ranger station, sixteen miles away;
but we had not realized what a hard task we had set ourselves for
164 From Hood to Jefferson in April
Easter Sunday. Sometimes we were able to follow a telephone line,
but most of the way this was covered with snow and we were obliged
to rely solely upon our compasses for direction. After stopping a short
time for lunch at Clear lake about noon, we kept steadily on until
about five p. m. when we saw a ranger trail sign projecting a bit
out of the snow, which gave the distance from there to the ranger
station as three miles. We were tired, but we kept on. Every so
often the leader would drop behind, the second man taking his place
and breaking trail. It was about seven o'clock when we distinguished
the outlines of a cabin surrounded by a number of trees in a large open
meadow. We knew at once that it was our long-looked-for destination,
and nothing could have pleased us more than the sight of it.
Inside, we hurriedly built a fire, and after resting, drying and din-
ing, we crawled into our sleeping bags, thoroughly tired out.
Monday we rested. We rose late and spent the whole day about
camp. The day was fairly clear, but toward nightfall it began to
storm as usual.
Warm Springs was set for our destination the next day. A heavy
crust on the snow made skiing very difficult in the morning, and more
snow kept coming down all day. By this time, however, we were
more skillful in the use of skis, and we made fairly good speed, reaching
Warm Springs at four o'clock in the afternoon.
Here we found a little cabin about seven feet long by six feet wide,
completely covered with snow except for a little opening at one end.
We built a fire, chopping away the snow to make a draft and let out
the smoke; but our scheme failed to work, and our little home under
the snow was nothing but a smoke house. So we crawled into our
sleeping bags early.
Breaking camp at nine the following morning, we soon left the
smoky cabin far behind. About five inches of snow had fallen in the
night. Much of this stuck to our skis, making progress very tiresome
and slow. At two-thirty we reached Lemiti ranger station, a distance
of about seven miles from Warm Springs. Stopping there about an
hour for lunch, and to wax our skis, we decided to go as far as Olallie
Meadows ranger station that afternoon.
Six o'clock brought us to this spot just as the last rays of sun
shone over the hills. Mt.Jefferson, a little to the right of Olallie Butte,
made a wonderful picture, like a huge sparkling diamond.
By this time, cooking our meals under difficulties was an old story
to us. We took turns, a day each, in acting as cook. We spent the
time after dinner in drying ourselves and our equipment, many things
being quite wet from the storm, together with the snow that kept falling
From Heed to Jefferson in April 165
from the trees as we passed under them. At nine o'clock we went to
bed, but we had little sleep that night, as a heavy storm soon began to
rage, continuing until late the following day. It was very cold.
We passed a second night in this cabin, and arising at six o'clock
on Friday, the i3th, we soon set out for Jefferson Park. We crossed
several lakes, Olallie being the largest. All were frozen and covered
deep with snow. Shortly after two p. m. a fierce storm closed in
about us, making it necessary again to use our compasses for direction.
By five the storm was raging with such fury that we were compelled
to descend quite a distance into a valley and seek a spot for camp.
We made a lean-to shelter out of boughs and a canvas. The wind
played havoc with our fire, for which we had no dry wood. We were
bitterly cold until we got into our sleeping bags. The storm raged all
night, driving snow through every crevice of our shelter.
In the morning, the thermometer registered a little above zero.
Our clothing was frozen. It was nearly nine o'clock when we set out,
to climb some 1 500 feet to the summit of the ridge. The storm was
still blustering. We had to cross many steep snow slopes. I remember
one in particular, where each step had to be tested before any weight
was placed upon it; a slip would have meant a slide of several thousand
feet. We were barely able to distinguish each other through the storm,
although we traveled only a ski-length apart. By afternoon the storm
became a regular blizzard. Coming to the end of the ridge, we started
down into the valley, thinking it might lead into Jefferson park. The
descent was too steep for snowshoes or skis. We plunged through
snow over hip deep, sometimes sliding and falling. On reaching the
floor of the valley we realized that we were not in Jefferson Park after all,
but in a sort of box canyon with sheer cliffs on all sides.
We camped under a large fir, and were pleased to find, the next
morning, that no snow was falling and the wind had ceased. Studying
our maps, we concluded that we were in Gorge Creek canyon, and that
by following the creek we should reach Breitenbush hot springs.
Skiing was good this morning, the down grade being gradual,
although we had to keep dodging in and out among the trees. At
nightfall we could find no place suitable for a camp, we so had to make
the best of very bad conditions.
We were glad to get up at break of day. We had a disagreeable
time with breakfast, and made little progress during the morning. We
changed from skis to snowshoes shortly before noon, finding we could
make much better progress with the latter. We began to notice blazes
* Incorrectly named on Oregon National Forest Map. Should be South Fork
of Breitenbush.
1 66 From Hood to Jefferson in April
along the way, and an occasional forest fire warning sign. It was about
four o'clock when we reached Breitenbush hot springs.
We picked out the most comfortable cabin and made ourselves at
home. Cooking on a stove and sleeping on springs were novel sports
to us, and we enjoyed the hot water of the springs. We spent two days
resting and bathing, mending and drying our clothes.
When we set out again the weather was fine. The snow was soft
in the lower valleys and we had to snowshoe all the way to Detroit,
a distance of twelve miles. The crossing of numerous streams made it
necessary to take off and put on our snowshoes many times; we had
great difficulty in following the trail around cliffs. The hot baths of
the preceding two days seemed to have weakened us, and we had to
rest often.
At length, rounding a curve in the trail, we saw to our delight the
town of Detroit some distance below us. It was Thursday, April iq,
at four o'clock, when we reached Detroit and saw the first human
beings, besides ourselves, since leaving Government Camp.
Had the weather been a little milder, our trip would have been a
very pleasant one; but as it was, it often taxed us nearly to the limit
of our endurance. We learned a number of important things, however,
about taking care of ourselves in the worst of weather and conditions;
making comfortable camps in snow, and cooking over little fires in
raging storms. And best of all, we accomplished something that, so
far as we could learn, had never before been attempted at that season
of the year.
AAA
Phases of Vulcanism as Shown in
the Cascades
(An Abstract)
By PAULINE GEBALLE
"It seems probable that the Cascades are formed to a large extent
of tilted blocks of basalt which were originally horizontal ; and belong
to the same series as the Columbia river lavas farther east, which have
been, in comparison, only moderately disturbed. The Cascades, at
least in Washington, do not seem to have been formed mainly by the
piling up of erupted material, as has been suggested in explanation of
their origin farther south, but are due to the uplifting and tilting of
Phases of Vulcanism in the Cascades 167
previously consolidated lava sheets as well as granite and coal bearing
strata which occur high up on each flank of the mountain and even
form portions of the main divide. The great volcanoes which appear
so prominent along the general trend of the range are secondary to the
main mountain building."*
In the northern Cascades, "the structure is highly complex, and
is by no means in a single great north — south anticline or simple mono-
clinal block sculptured by erosion. The Cascades as we know them
seem to have been carved from an upraised peneplain."* Mr. George
O. Smith says Prof. Russell's hypothesis rests upon the presence of
truncated folds, stream erosion having reduced the whole region to
nearly sea-level . * 'During the later portion of the time of base-leveling,
the widely spread sheets of the Columbia river lava were poured out.
The date of the period of planation is shown approximately by the fact
that the folded beds of Eocene were truncated. The broad peneplain
must have reached the greatest degree of perfection in the late Tertiary
time, probably extending into the Pleistocene."*
The lava flows as seen in canyon walls show parallel layers. During
the period of eruption there were no general movements such as would
cause unconformities within the Columbia river series. This lava is
believed to have been poured out in a "series of vast inundations over
a deeply eroded land surface." It should be 4000 feet thick, because
it is believed that no erosion took place, but it is in some places only
3000 to 3500 feet thick, so Prof. Russell argues that there has been
subsidence in the eastern portion because there are no marine deposits
imbedded in the lava sheets.
fThe Cascades have a north-south trend. From Oregon to Mt.
Rainier, the range is made up of basaltic and andesitic lavas of the
Tertiary age. Farther north the rocks are older and the topography
more varied. These are called the Northen Cascades. The oldest
rocks known in the Northern Cascades are of Paleozoic age. They are
largely metamorphic. Some traces of the original show they were of
both sedimentary and igneous origin and their character indicates that
the conditions of sedimentation and volcanism were quite similar to
those of the same period in the Sierra Nevada mountains and British
Columbia. The rocks themselves are strikingly similar to the rocks
found in the Blue mountains and Okanogan valley.
During the Mesozoic time sandstones and other sediments were
laid down in portions of the Northern Cascades, though the Cretaceous
rocks lying just south of the Canadian border show that a Cretaceous
*Prof. Russell.
t Information obtained from the Mt. Stuart and Ellensburg portfolios.
1 68 Phases of Vulcanism in the Cascades
sea extended southward from British Columbia. Similar rocks are
found in the John Day valley and Blue mountains of Oregon, showing
that Central Washington at that time was probably land with Cretaceous
seas to the north and south of it, or else any marine Cretaceous material
which was deposited has been eroded away.
Then these Cretaceous and older rocks were folded and uplifted,
accompanied by intrusions of molten magma. The chief of these in
the Northern Cascades was the intrusion of the massive granitic rock
which formed the great granodiorite batholith of Mt. Stuart. Then
came a period of erosion and the mass was carved into bold relief.
At the beginning of the Tertiary age, the Northern Cascades was a
comparatively rugged country, though not necessarily greatly elevated.
During the early Eocene period sedimentation occurred in the arm
of the sea where Puget sound now is and in the bodies of water, both
fresh and salt, that existed elsewhere. The Swank formation was laid
down in this period. Then came slight elevation and erosion and the
first eruptions of basaltic lava, the forerunner of those great lava flows
of the Miocene period. Later there was sedimentation and it was at
this time that the large lake beds in central Washington were filled
with the sediment and organic matter which forms the Roslyn and
Swank coal beds.
That great erosion took place at this time is shown by the strati-
graphic break between the Eocene and Miocene. Where the older
rocks are exposed near Ellensburg, it is found that the first flows of
Yakima basalt covered a surface of considerable relief, but that the
lava was so thick that it filled the valleys and covered the hill -tops,
making it a monotonous waste of black rock. The lava poured out of
great fissures in quiet streams flowing for long distances and finally
consolidated into sheets from twenty-five to one hundred feet in thick-
ness. Dikes can be traced to the older rocks below showing the chan-
nels through which the lava issued. In Yakima canyon ten or more
separate flows can be counted. That these flows occurred after con-
siderable intervals of time is shown by petrified trees and stumps, also
thin strata of sedimentation. The maximum thickness according to
Prof. Saunders is 5000 feet. Sediment from the old Cascade mountains
was washed in by the streams and buried near the margin of the
basaltic plain.
In the latter part of the Miocene, the eruptions ceased and there
was a depression of this area toward which the streams flowed and made
deposits. The sediment consisted of light-colored andesitic pebbles,
sand and boulders which had been emptied farther west. These ande-
sitic eruptions in the west began even before the basalt flows had ceased,
Phases of Vulcanism in the Cascades 169
because andesitic lavas and pumice are found in the Ellensburg sand-
stone beneath the latest basalt flow. The coarseness of the material
and the stream bedding show that the streams were of such volume as
to transport huge boulders. The material was of the explosive type
and could be easily carried. The deposit spread out in wide alluvial
fans over the comparatively level surface of the basalt.
In the early Pliocene period, there was folding and uplift; then ero-
sion by streams which reduced it all, sandstone and basalt alike, to
one level plain — a peneplain. The peneplain was then subjected to
erogenic forces, the level surface was raised in the form of a dome along
a long axis and this was the birth of the present Cascades. It was an
extremely slow process, but of considerable elevation, so that the larger
rivers, such as the Columbia and Yakima, kept their meandering courses
across the ridges and were entrenched. The valleys between the ridges
furnished natural routes for surface waters and so many tributaries of
the Yakima river have courses consequent upon warped hollows of the
peneplain. This was the closing event of the Pliocene period, f
"The present Cascades are called Cascade or Pliocene Plateau and
the present valleys and ridges are the result of recent erosion since the
last uplift. During the uplift or at its climax, volcanic cones, such as
Hood, Adams, St. Helens and Rainier, were built upon the old block
surface. Other peaks of the Cascades are remnants of erosion left as
monadnocks above the peneplain. "J
Thus the present Cascades consist of an old comparatively level
platform of granite upon which rest these newer volcanic cones, built
up chiefly of material of the explosive type. Their eruptions have
ceased so recently that many of the older Indians still relate tales of
the fires that issued from the bowels of the earth ; though, if we except
Mt. Lassen, there has been no recorded volcanic activity within the
memory of the white man.
•(•Information obtained from the Mt. Stuart and Ellensburg Portfolios.
|E. J. Saunders, "Geological History of Washington."
O Nature! a' thy shews an' forms
To feeling, pensive hearts hae charms!
Whether the summer kindly warms,
Wi' life an' light;
Or winter howls, in gusty storms,
The lang, dark night!
— Burns
Some Birds of the Higher Cascades
By WILLIAM L. FINLEY
Oregon State Biologist
Many people think that wild birds are more abundant in the
remote sections of the state less frequented by man. As a rule, it is
just the opposite. The ordinary bird takes to living about a settled
community. While we may find an occasional robin in the higher
mountains, and in the less settled portions of the state, yet as a rule,
the robin likes a lawn and he prefers to live near where people live.
The meadow-lark, for instance, may be found in the semi-desert or
in the sagebrush country, but he is much more at home near a plowed field.
Among the typical bird residents of our Cascade forests, one may
find some of the woodpeckers, chickadees, creepers, nuthatches and
kinglets, feeding continually on the insects that infest our forest trees.
The woodpeckers are especially equipped by nature to bore into the
tree-trunks for grubs and other insects. The foot of the woodpecker
is different from that of the robin. ., Instead of three toes in front and
one behind, the woodpecker has two toes in front and two behind, so
that it can more easily cling to the upright trunk. The tail has strong
sharp, pointed feathers that catch in the bark and act as a prop for the
bird's body. The beak is long and chisel-pointed, making a very effec-
tive instrument for cutting wood. The tongue is elastic, with a sharp
point and barbed on the sides so that it can be thrust deep into the
burrows of wood-boring insects.
One of the most striking birds that a mountain climber may dis-
cover in the high Cascades is the Clark's crow (Nucifraga columbiana)
or nutcracker. This bird was first found by Capt. William Clark near
the site of Salmon City, Idaho, August 22, 1805. While it is a crow in
action, yet it is quite different in dress. Its whole body is white, but
the wings and tail are black, with the exception of a white patch on
the lower part of the wings and the outer feathers of the tail. It is a
striking creature, typical of the high western mountainous country
where the Alpine hemlock and jackpine thrive.
The best chances I have had to study these birds were at Cloud
Cap Inn (on the north slope of Mt. Hood) and at Crater Lake Lodge.
Like the Oregon jays, the crows have learned to stay about these hotels,
where they get free meals at all hours of the day. At times, they
become so tame that they will take a nut or piece of meat from the
hand. In traveling through the higher Cascades, I had often seen one
of these conspicuous birds launch out from the tree-tops, sometimes
Some Birds of the Higher Cascades 171
with a long swoop, opening its wings and curving up before the next
drop. The continuous, harsh, rattling call, sounding like "Char-r!
Char-r!," is a familiar sound, typical of pine timber and rugged
mountains.
The Oregon jay (Perisoreus obscurus) is particularly a camp bird.
He loves the outdoor abode of a man in the woods. Careless campers
almost universally call him "camp robber." He has the good trait of
paying frequent visits about camp and picking up odd scraps that
drop from the table or are thrown away, a habit which no one can ques-
tion. If a camper is careless about leaving his meat out in the open
or the butter uncovered, the natural conclusion reached by the birds
is that this means: "Help hourself, so it won't go to waste."
At Camp Hardesty, on the border of Pamelia lake, during the past
summer, food was served on a row of thin shakes that were meant for
tables, but which might not have been recognized as such by the birds.
When the butter eas set out in a pan at six a. m. on these forest lunch
counters and no one came to eat, I saw an old jay drop down, poke
in his bill and pull it back with a pleased expression and a whistle that
said: "Come on, children; breakfast is now ready." And the children
came. I could see no cause for two late-sleeping Mazamas raising a
hue and cry and calling these birds "camp robbers." Anyone might
think that food set out in the open woods was to be eaten and not
to melt and spoil in the sun.
The Oregon jay can easily be recognized by his fluffy dress, rather
long tail and general gray color with no sign of blue. The top of the
head and upper part of the back are blackish. The rest of the upper
part of the body is brownish-gray, while the under part of the bird is
white. The young birds that follow their parents about during the
summer look like a different species. They are of a dull sooty brown,
darkest on the head and a little lighter below, but lacking the white
under parts of the old birds.
The Steller's jay (Cyanocitta stelleri) is the common blue jay of
the Oregon forests. His dark blue body and high crest easily distin-
guish him from the Oregon jay. While the Oregon jay is often bold
enough to take food from the hand, the Steller's jay is more wary and
afraid of man.
One might not expect to find humming-birds in our higher moun-
tains, yet if the ordinary tramper has his eyes open, he will see them,
especially late in the summer. The rufous humming-bird (Selasjphorus
rufus) is the common species living on the west slopes of the Cascade
range. The humming-birds that live and breed in the lower hills and
canyons seem to follow the flowers and work up into the higher moun-
1/2 Some Birds of the Higher Cascades
tains during the late summer. The young humming-birds are ready
to leave the nest and fly about in June and July. By this time, the
early flowers are past blooming in the lower altitudes, but up nearer
to the snow line there are myriads of blossoms.
Along almost every wild mountain stream is a typical bird of our
western country, the water ouzel or dipper (Cinclus mexicanus). This
bird is sometimes called the "teeter-tail," because of his continuous
bobbing motion. It is slate-gray in color, with a short wren-like tail.
While it is not a web-footed bird, yet it dives and swims in the swiftest
water, picking up water insects and larvae at the bottom. As a rule,
it makes an oven-shaped moss nest with a door in the side. It is placed
on a shelf of rock, often behind a waterfall, where the bird may have
to fly through the spray or a thin wall of water to reach its nest.
The western evening grosbeak (Cocothraustes vespertinus montanus)
and the varied thrush (Ixoreus naevius) are both birds of the higher-
mountain regions, which come down into the valleys to spend the win-
ter. The grosbeak is a strange-looking bird, often taken for an im-
ported songster rather than an Oregonian. It has a heavy light-colored
beak, with black on the top of the head, wings and tail. The wings
have large white patches which show distinctly when the bird is in
flight. The main part of the body is olive and yellowish-green. Flocks
of grosbeaks are often seen during the winter and spring season about
the valleys, picking up seeds under the maple, locust and cherry trees.
The varied thrush is often called the Alaska or Oregon robin.
It nests in the wilder mountains, where the timber is dense. The bird
has a weird and mysterious note, a sort of a monotone song that can
be imitated by using a combination whistle and voice note. When
he is driven down from the high mountains by the snows of winter,
the later fruits are still hanging on vine and tree. He seems to be
ravenously hungry for the sweet-tasting fruit that has been planted
by man. His taste sometimes turns to grapes and apples to such an
extent that some farmers think him a nuisance.
The varied thrush has the size and actions of an ordinary robin,
but has a very different dress. He can easily be recognized and dis-
tinguished from the ordinary robin because, instead of a brick-red
breast, his breast is yellowish-brown, crossed at the throat by a black
band.
Among the birds of prey, one may find hawks, owls and eagle
in the higher mountains. The little sharp-shinned hawk (Accipiter
velox) is the most destructive among our smaller birds. While camped
at Pamelia lake last summer, Mr. Herman T. Bohlman was watching
a flock of tree swallows darting about and catching insects over the
The Harley H. Prouty Memorial 173
lake one afternoon. Suddenly, one of these little hawks came like a
shot out of the sky and caught a swallow in mid-air, carrying him away
for a meal.
The dusky horned owl (Bubo virginianm saturatus) is the largest
of the owls that inhabit the Cascade mountains. It is a powerful bird,
living largely on game birds, rabbits and other small animals.
If one has his eyes open, he may frequently see an eagle sailing above
the Cascades. In Oregon, we have two, the bald eagle, (Haliaeetus
leucocephalus) and the golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos). The term
"bald" originated from the white head which is an unmistakable identi-
fication of the full-grown bird and at a distance gives the impression
of baldness. The bald eagle has much the same general coloring as
the golden eagle until it is three years old. In the time of Audubon,
these young bald eagles were considered a separate species. At the
age of three years, the bald eagle attains maturity and his white
feathers appear on the head and neck. To distinguish one species from
the other, look at the lowest joint of the leg. If this is covered with
feathers down to the toes, it is a golden eagle; if the leg is naked, it is
a bald eagle.
AAA
Two Voices are there; one is of the Sea,
One of the Mountains; each a mighty Voice.
— Wordsworth
AAA
The Harley H. Prouty Memorial
By JOHN A. LEE
"To him who in the love of Nature holds
Communion with her visible forms, she speaks
A various language; for his gayer hours
She has a voice of gladness, and a smile
And eloquence of beauty, and she glides
Into his darker musings with a mild
And healing sympathy that steals away
Their sharpness, ere he is aware."
Many have read and pondered these majestic lines of the poet.
To few did they have a deeper meaning than to Harley H. Prouty, ex-
president of the Mazamas and to them affectionately known as ' 'Uncle
Jed," who departed this life on September 1 1, 1916.
To those nearest to him he had frequently expressed the wish that
"when the summons comes to take his chamber in the silent halls of
1 74 The Harley H. Prouty Memorial
death," his remains should repose amid the mountains that he loved
so well. Jerry E. Bronaugh and James L. Quinn, his executors, the
former himself an honored ex-president of the Mazamas, determined
that this wish of their departed friend should be observed. In the
actual carrying out of the wish, what would be more fitting, as it seemed
to them, than to have the last sad rites performed by the loving hands
and hearts of the Mazamas, with whom the deceased had been so
closely identified ; whose life indeed, for a number of years, had in large
measure been his life? Accordingly, in response to the request of the
executors, a committee of the Mazamas was appointed, to be known
as the Prouty Memorial Committee. This committee consisted of
Rodney L. Glisan (chairman), Mary C. Henthorne, Anne C. Dillinger,
Jerry E. Bronaugh, Edgar E. Coursen and the writer, all of Portland ;
W. C. Yoran, of Eugene, Oregon; and Dr. W. E. Stone, President of
Purdue University, Indiana.
The remains had been cremated, and the committee decided that
the urn containing the ashes, together with a bronze tablet suitably
inscribed, should be deposited somewhere in the heart of the Cascades,
amid the haunts that he had so often courted in life. Just what point
to select was a matter of some debate, for many had been the mountain
fastnesses that his tireless feet had explored. The committee finally
decided that no more suitable place could be chosen than some point
in the region of the Three Sisters, where, in IQIO, he was first ushered
into the Mazama brotherhood; where, on the occasion of the outing
of that year, he performed his most notable feat in mountaineering;
and where, in iqi6, he bade what was to be a last fond farewell to his
beloved mountains, with their glaciers and rugged cliffs and slopes,
their singing streams and heathery meads.
To review and perhaps further perpetuate the memory of the ex-
ploit just referred to we trust will not be amiss in this connection.
As has been stated, it was in IQIO that Harley H. Prouty first
became associated with the Mazamas, and it was then that the writer
first met him. We were receiving the registrations that year for the
summer's outing, and Mr. Prouty came in to have his name enrolled.
Brief as was the interview, we were deeply impressed with the per-
sonality of our visitor and concluded then that somehow, in some man-
ner, this personality would impress itself upon the outing. The mem-
bers of the party were not long in coming to appreciate the splendid
qualities of heart and mind of our departed brother, but it was not
until the day of the official climb that he performed the feat of daring,
nerve, endurance, and all-round skill in mountain climbing that will
make his name remembered in Mazama circles for all time.
The Harley H. Prouty Memorial 175
The official climbing party of the Mazamas had completed the
ascent of the Middle Sister and were assembled on its summit. Across
a sharp and declivitous canyon to the north, through which poured the
ice stream of Collier glacier, reared the North Sister, a jagged cone of
rapidly disintegrating lava. Up to that time the southerly and highest
pinnacle on the summit of this peak had, so far as known, never been
scaled. Because of the steepness of its walls and the loose and friable
nature of the rock composing it, the ascent of this pinnacle had been
deemed scarcely feasible. Aware of this, but nothing daunted, Mr.
Prouty left the others of the party on the summit of the Middle Sister
and set out alone to ascend this second uncl imbed peak. Balked in
his direct attack, he descended for a distance, executed a flank move-
ment to the west, and ere nightfall had accomplished his purpose and
was back in camp. A few days later he showed his skill as a guide by
conducting a small party to the summit of this peak; and he duplicated
the feat again in 1916 on the occasion of the Mazama outing of that
year. Of the twelve names in the Mazama registration box on the
summit of the North Sister, that of Harley H. Prouty appears three
times. The name Prouty Peak has been given to this highest pinnacle
of the summit of the North Sister in recognition of his achievement.
In selecting the memorial tablet, the committee decided that it
should be modest in size and simply inscribed, in keeping with the
reserve and quiet dignity of the deceased. Its dimensions are 18 by
24 inches, and it bears the inscription :
HARLEY H. PROUTY
A Lover of the Mountains
1857—1916
On the evening of Friday, August 31, 1917, the two executors and the
Mazama committee set out from Portland to perform the final part of
their mission. For various reasons, three of the committee, Rodney L.
Glisan (chairman), Edgar E. Coursen and Dr. W. E. Stone were unable
to accompany the expedition, much to their own regret and that of the
other members. The party was joined in Eugene by W. C. Yoran, of
the committee, James McAlpin, an experienced stonemason, and Ed-
ward Parks, the driver of the conveyance that was to carry the expedi-
tion up the McKenzie river to Frog Camp, where the trail leading to
the Three Sisters begins. Arthur Belknap, packer, was to be in waiting
at Frog Camp with pack-horses in sufficient number to transport the
outfit of the party to the park region at the base of the Three Sisters.
176 The Harley H. Prouty Memorial
All went well, and by nightfall of Saturday the party was comfortably
established in camp at the precise spot where the Mazamas had en-
camped in i q 10. The tables and the fireplace prepared by the party
of that year were still intact and were utilized by us.
The site of this camp is pleasing. It nestles in one of the most
charming dells of a region bountifully supplied with alpine parks and
meadows. Its elevation is about 6400 feet and a clear and lusty tribu-
tary of White Branch flows through it. Across the stream to the south,
Obsidian Cliff rises with some abruptness, and to the east the summits
of both the Middle and North Sisters are plainly visible. The outing
party of iqi6 was not able to utilize this, camp as it was still buried
deep in snow. The camp site of that year is beyond Obsidian Cliff,
a mile or so to the southwest.
We were up and stirring early on Sunday morning, as the time
allotted for the accomplishment of our mission was none too long. As
we were busy about the camp, the morning sun rose above the summit
of the North Sister, the scene of Mr. Prouty's exploit of seven years
before, and its rays were observed to light up a jutting promontory of
Obsidian Cliff, directly opposite the camp and not more than 500 feet
away. The projection stood out conspicuously and appeared to be
composed of light gray stone, firm in texture, and its face smoothly
eroded by glacial action. Some of us mentally decided, then and there,
that this was to be the location of the crypt and tablet, and thus it
proved. Other sites were examined, only to be rejected in favor of the
one first considered, and the choice was unanimous — spontaneous, it
might be said.
Little time was lost in getting to work. Willing hands soon sus-
pended from the rock a platform upon which Mr. McAlpin could stand
while wielding mallet and chisel, and almost before the evening sun had
left the rock in shadow a crypt had been excavated, the urn containing
the ashes set therein, and the tablet, so placed as to act as a covering
for the crypt, bolted and cemented to the face of the rock.
After everything had been placed in readiness for Mr. McAlpin and
he had begun his work, a little group, consisting of Messrs. Quinn and
Parks, Miss Dillinger and the writer, climbed to the summit of the
Middle Sister and wrote into the Mazama registration book a simple
record of the expedition, giving the location of the crypt.
Monday morning, just before starting on our homeward journey,
we all gathered about the crypt and a brief and simple service was
held. This consisted of a few short talks and the reading of Thanatop-
sis. Just above the tablet there chanced to be a circular pocket in
the rock. Slight additional excavation fashioned this depression into
Mazama Outing to Mt. Hood 177
a natural vase. In this were placed small branches of alpine fir, moun-
tain hemlock, and white-bark pine, the three trees (and the only three)
found at this elevation; clusters of asters, lupines, and Indian paint-
brush, the flowers that perhaps most of all render bright and cheerful
our alpine meadows; and some sprigs of heather, both the white and
the purple.
As the contents of the vase were being arranged, "Jimmie" Quinn
whose boyhood had been spent among the heath-clad hills of bonnie
Scotland, let fall a remark that impressed his companions deeply:
"The white heather! It is known in Scotland as the badge of eternal
friendship."
By the morning of Tuesday we were all back at our homes, feeling
that an appropriate act of fraternal affection and esteem had been well
performed.
The crypt is on the most natural line of travel for those visiting
the Three Sisters region, and will not fail to be noted by any observant
person passing that way.
AAA
Yon mountain's side is black with night,
While, broad-orbed, o'er its gleaming crown
The moon, slow-rounding into sight,
On the hushed inland sea looks down.
— Whittier
AAA
The 1917 Mazama Outing to Mt. Hood
By JEAN RICHARDSON
One of the most important activities of the Mazamas is their an-
nual expedition to the summit of Mt. Hood. Many people of Port-
land and its vicinity whose vacations are short and whose time for
recreation is limited, hail with pleasure this opportunity to form a
closer acquaintance with their nearest and best-loved mountain peak.
Daily, with interest and awe, these busy residents look out across the
intervening hills and valleys at its white, cloud-surrounded heights,
silent, majestic, ever on guard. They feel its fascination, and when
announcement is made of the Mazama annual outing, they respond
to the call.
1 78 Mazama Outing to Mt. Hood
The 1917 excursion to Mt. Hood was planned to take place at the
close of the N. E. A. convention, July 14 and 15, in order to give the
visitors, as well as the people of Portland, an opportunity to participate.
Registration headquarters were opened in the Mazama club-rooms,
with Miss Harriett E. Monroe in charge.
After a week of careful preparation, about a hundred persons
gathered at the Union station on the morning of July 14 and boarded
the Mazama special train for Hood River. The rail-autos carried
them on to Parkdale. From here they were conveyed in motor trucks
to the beginning of the Sand Canyon trail, two miles from the chosen
campsite on the north side of the mountain. At about sunset, they
began winding their way up a ridge along one side of the beautiful
Sand canyon.
The committee had decided to make the ascent from a point on
this ridge about one and one-half miles southeast of Cloud Cap Inn,
and here the party encamped for the night. The route up the moun-
tain from this point is a particularly advantageous one, as there is no
loss of elevation at any point.
On July 15, about 4 a. m., Mr. Roy W. Ayer, now president of the
club, chief guide on many previous Mazama outings, summoned this
band of would-be Alpinists from their fir-bough beds. Breakfast was
eaten in the semi-darkness, and at about 5 o'clock the company assem-
bled to listen to a brief lecture by Mr. Robert E. Hitch on the evils of
eating snow, starting rolling rocks and spoiling steps. These final in-
structions over, Mr. Ayer took charge of the party and the ascent
began. Out across the snow, under the firs and hemlocks, they marched
to timber-line, where a halt was made to study the weather conditions.
The sky had become overcast and rain was falling in a disheartening
manner. Most fortunately, the storm was of short duration and half
an hour later the party was well on its way to Cooper's Spur. A very
direct route up the side of the mountain was taken and by one o'clock
eighty-three successful climbers were on the summit, enjoying the hos-
pitality of Elijah Coalman, the forest ranger stationed at the fire look-
out and learning, many of them for the first time, how this old world
looks from away up in the clouds. A party of about forty climbed the
south side of the mountain on the same day. After spending an hour
enjoying the view, exploring the summit, and registering names in the
Mazama record, the company began the descent.
The return trip was made without accident, and at 4:30 on Mon-
day morning the excursionists reached Portland, sunburnt and tired
but triumphant and happy.
Mazama Outing to Mi. Hood
179
This outing, on the whole, was most successful. The party was
made up of persons from all parts of the United States. They were
unanimous in voting it a wonderful experience and departed full of
enthusiasm over the trip and admiration for our Oregon scenery.
NAMES OF THOSE WHO REACHED THE SUMMIT
OF MT. HOOD, JULY 15, 1917
ROY W. AVER
SARAH H. BACON
J. H. BALMANNO
G. G. BATTEY
N. W. BATTEY
GEO. W. BISSELL
W. BOYSHUK
Gus BROCKMAN
EMMA BROWN
GEO. T. BROWN
W. F. BUSE
CHARLOTTE CALL WELL
DAVID CAMPBELL
GRACE CAMPBELL
HARRIET CAMPBELL
W. H. CAMPBELL
CORNELL CARLSON
ARTHUR CRAWFORT
F. R. COOK
C. B. COMPTON
ANNE DILLINGER
ROBERT DUNIWAY
MARIE EVANS
ELAINE EWELL
G. L. FORD
HERBERT FOSTER
R. H. Fox
H. GEISEIKE
LUCIE GEORGE
W. A. GILMOUR
HARRY C. GREY
MARGARET GRIFFIN
J. T. HAZARD
MRS. J. T. HAZARD
J. E. HOLDEN
MRS. J . E. HOLDEN
GEORGE I. HOWE
SOPHIE HUFF
MYRTLE HUFF
HERBERT HUFF
L. W. HUGHETT
J. JACKLE
L. JEANNIN
ALICE M. JOHNSON
JAS. C. KENDRICKS
F. M. KIGER
MARY L. KNAPP
ERNEST E. KNIGHT
MARGARET KREINER
JOHANNA KRUSE
AGNES LAWSON
ETHEL LOUCKS
LUCIA MACKLIN
ELLA SABINA MASON
R. P. MERCER
GEO.MEREDITH
W. McDouGAL
C. T. McGlLVRA
MRS. C. T. McGiLVRA
JEAN MCKERCHER
MAX NEITSCH
E. J . NEWCOMER
MABEL NEWCOMER
B. W. NEWELL
D. G. ONTHANK
GEO. A. PATTERSON
EDWARD PATZELT
T. D. PHILLIPS
R. W. REA
EDWIN L. RICE
HULDA SCHEEL
EMMA D. SCHOLES
NORA SELF
J. DUNCAN SPAETH
O. B. SPERLIN
VERA E. TAYLOR
VIOLETTA WENTWORTH
MRS. MARGARET B. WEST
MARGARET L. WEST
J. C. WINDHAM
MRS. J . C. WINDHAM
L. L. WOODWARD
HARRY L. WOLBERS
THOSE WHO MADE SIDE TRIPS TO ELIOT
GLACIER AND COOPER'S SPUR
W. P. HARDESTY, Leader
R. H. ATKINSON
MRS. R. H. ATKINSON
RALPH DUNIWAY
HAROLD DEM ING
ROBERT E. HITCH
MRS. L. W. HUGHETT
JOSEPHINE KELLY
IVA KENDRICKS
J. C. MARTIN
HARRIETT E. MONROE
ALDA MCCREADY
MRS. MCCREADY
MARGUERITE OVERHULS
JEAN RICHARDSON
LUCY J . SMOOT
Mt. Shasta in History and Legend*
By ALLEN H. BENT
Mt. Shasta has had a most interesting history in spite of its late-
ness in getting on the map. It was not discovered until late in 1826,
when Peter Skene Ogden, "humorous, honest, eccentric, law-defying
Peter Ogden, the terror of Indians and the delight of all gay fellows,"
making an unusually long journey for beaver skins from the Hudson
Bay Company's post at Fort Vancouver on the Columbia, caught sight
of it. This was thrity-four years after Vancouver had discovered and
named Mts. Hood, St. Helens, Baker and Rainier, eighty-five years
after Mt. St. Elias had been discovered, nearly three centuries after
the Sierra Nevada, the southern Rocky mountains and the Appalachian
chain had been seen by Spanish explorers, and more than three hundred
years after the first ascent of Popocatepetl, Mexico's great smoking
mountain. Notwithstanding all this, Shasta was the first of the higher
peaks on the Pacific slope to be climbed and for several years was supposed
to be the highest mountain in the United States. It was seen in 1841
by Lieutenant Ernmons of the Wilkes Exploring Expedition, in 1 846
by John C. Fremont, on his third western journey, and in 1851 by
Robert S. Williamson, of the U. S. Topographical Engineers, during
his search for a railroad route from the Columbia river to the Sacra-
mento valley. All three referred to it in their official reports, Wilkes
calling it Mt. Shaste, Fremont the Shastl Peak and Williamson Shasta
Butte. The Wilkes expedition included several distinguished scien-
tists, including James D. Dana, the geologist. Fremont's guide was
Kit Carson. Wilkes and Williamson in their reports, the first printed
in 1845, tne second in 1855, each show a picture of the peak. William-
son also has lithographs of Lassen's Butte, as he calls Mt. Lassen, and
Mts. Hood, Jefferson and Three Sisters. The first ascent to which I
find any reference was made by Capt. Henry Prince, who in 1852
planted the American flag on its summit. Prince was a native of
Eastport, Maine, a graduate of West Point, and later a soldier of
distinction in the Civil War, at the close of which he was brevetted
brigadier-general. The year before this ascent gold was discovered
at Yreka — Shasta Butte City it was originally called — some thirty-five
miles northwest of the mountain, and the first settlers came into the
region. The village at the foot of the mountain, at first called Straw-
berry Valley, later contracted to Berryvale, takes its present name of
*Parts of this article have appeared in Appalachia, Volume 13, Numbers i, 2,
3, 1913-1915.
Mt. Shasta in History and Legend 181
Sisson from J. H. Sisson, who settled there about 1857 or 1858. He
took care of the few travelers that came, hunted and trapped and
later guided occasional climbers to the top of the mountain.
The second ascent of which I have found any record was made by
Israel S. Diehl of Yreka in October, 1855. He seemed proud that he had
"no equipped and noted travelers, officers, literati, or blooming lively
belles" for companions, but that he was solitary and alone on this
"stupendous and unknown undertaking."* After two days' journey
on horseback he made camp at tree line after dark. To keep off the
grizzlies and mountain lions he made a big fire which burned every-
thing around him. The grizzlies did not get him and he had a fine day
on the mountain.
The next ascent, the following April, was early in the year for a
mountain of this magnitude, and it is not surprising to learn that the
thermometer carried to the top registered twelve degrees below zero.
Anton Roman, who made this ascent in 1856, was a native of Germany,
had come to America at an early age, crossed the plains in '49, mined
at Yreka and later opened a book-shop in San Francisco, where Thomas
Starr King, Mark Twain, Charles Warren Stoddard, Bret Harte, and
the other writers of the day were wont to gather.
Thomas Starr King, known to every mountain lover in New Eng-
land by his enthusiastic descriptions of the White mountains and to
Californians as the man whose eloquence saved their state to the Union
during the Civil War, had designs upon Shasta soon after he went to
the Pacific coast. In January, 1861, he wrote to his friend, President
Ballou of Tufts College: "Last week I went to Marysville. From the
church tower I saw the Sierra in saintly whiteness along a horizon of
two hundred miles. They were a hundred miles away but seemed
not over thirty, and far on the north two hundred and thirty miles
air-line, the pyramid of mighty Shasta peeped over the dim plain—
a knob of steady flaming gold. Do come out here and go with me to
see it and Oregon. We'll go to the summit of Shasta and laugh at
Mont Blanc. I mean to."
In the meantime, probably about 1854, Joaquin Miller appeared
on the scene. In the story of his life — "Afy Own Story" is the title of
the book — he says :
"I ran away from school in Oregon at the age of thirteen to the
gold mines of California. It was late in the fall — I was alone, a frail,
*The account of Diehl's climb, with a reference to Prince's ascent, will be found
in "Scenes of Wonder and Curiosity in California : a Tourist's Guide to the Yosemite
Valley." By J. M. Hutchings. New York and San Francisco, A. Roman & Co.
1870. There is a small engraving of Shasta.
1 82 Mt. Shasta in History and Legend
sensitive, girl-looking boy, almost destitute. As I descended the stu-
pendous and steep mountain that fronted the matchless and magnifi-
cent glory of Mt. Shasta, I fell in with an old mountaineer, by the
name of Mountain Joe, one of Fremont's former guides, who was on
his way to the Rio Grande to get a band of Mexican horses." Miller
accompanied him, after being wounded in an Indian fight at Castle
Rocks, and spent the winter in Arizona and Mexico. Upon his return
the following year, he settled down among the Indians. Of this period
he wrote, "Here were the tawny people with whom I was to mingle.
There loomed Mt. Shasta with which my name, if remembered at all,
will be remembered." As the winter approached he left the Indians
and made his way to Yreka, and "The Forks," where he remained with
James Vaughn Thomas until the following September, when they
moved nearer Shasta and mined quietly for a year. Then his companion
left. Miller married an Indian girl and went to live with her people
near the mountain. Listen to his description of the coming of spring
in those happy days: "At last the baffled winter abandoned even
the wall that lay between us and the outer world, and drew off all
his forces to Mt. Shasta. He retreated above the timber line, but he
retreated not an inch beyond. There he sat down with all his strength.
He planted his white and snowy tent upon this everlasting fortress,
and laughed at the world below him."
He tells of Paquita, the Indian girl he married, making an excellent
charcoal picture of Mt. Shasta on the door of their cabin. In an earlier
volume, "Life Amongst the Modocs" dedicated to the Red Men of
America, is an account of one of his ascents, which he says was his
last. It must have been about 1858. He acted as guide for a couple
of missionaries. They got to the top, but made hard work of it, scat-
tered some of their tracts and immediately started down. This to
a boy in his teens, who had been living a wild free life for several years,
coupled with the fact that they paid for his services in prayers and
printed sermons, was too much for him, and the missionaries were
given a sound lashing with his pen. At the time he simply stabbed the
tracts with his bowie knife.
Josiah D. Whitney, chief of the Geological Survey of California,
and his assistant William H. Brewer, who climbed and measured the
mountain in September, 1862, were the first scientists to reach the top.
They had been told that it could not be climbed, but when they got
there they found, as Brewer expressed it, "A mixture of tin cans and
broken bottles, a newspaper, a Methodist hymn-book, a pack of cards,
an empty bottle and various other evidences of a bygone civilization."
Mt. Shasta in History and Legend 183
As a result of the description of their ascent which Whitney and
Brewer sent to their alma mater, Yale College, Clarence King, who
later became the first director of the United States Geological Survey,
but at that time was only a student of twenty-one, started for Cali-
fornia, where his first ascent, in September, 1863, with Brewer, was up
the now famous Lassen peak. Less than a year later he discovered
and named Mt. Whitney, the highest mountain in the United States,
but his interest here lies in the fact that he was one of the first to spend
a night on Shasta. With him were Samuel F. Emmons, F. A. Clark,
and A. B. Clark, all connected with the Government Survey of the
Fortieth Parallel. This was in September, 1870. In his "Mountaineer-
ing in the Sierra Nevada," one of the earliest and at the same time most
fascinating of books upon American mountaineering, he tells the story.
After a night on the rim of Shastina and a perfect day on the summit,
the view from which he describes in detail, — "what volumes of geo-
graphical history lay in view," he exclaims — the little party went down
to the hot springs and prepared for the night. "We built of lava
blocks a square pen about two and a half feet high and banked it with
sand. I have seen other brownstone fronts more imposing than our
Shasta home, but I have rarely felt more grateful to four walls than
to that little six by six pen. The zephyr, as we courteously called it,
had a fashion of dropping out of the sky upon the fire and leaving a clean
hearth. This tempest descended to so many absurd personal tricks
altogether beneath the dignity of a reputable hurricane, that at last
it seemed to us a sort of furious burlesque. Not so the cold; that
commanded entire respect, whether carefully abstracting our animal
heat through the bed of gravel on which we lay, or brooding over us
hungry for those pleasant little waves of motion, which, taking Tyndall
for granted, radiated all night long in spite of wildcat bags from our
unwilling particles." All this was in the interest of science, for King
and Emmons were studying the geology of the mountain and the Clarks
carried their surveying instruments. A few years later, on the last
day of April, 1875, John Muir spent an unwilling night with a single
companion near the same spot. An account with illustrations appeared
in Harper's Monthly for September, 1877. The ascent, made with
Jerome Fay, "a hardy and competent mountaineer," was for the pur-
pose of making barometrical observations on the summit, while Capt.
A. F. Rodgers of the United States Coast Survey made similar obser-
vations at the base. Until early afternoon the weather was fine; at
one o'clock the thermometer stood at fifty degrees and a vigorous
bumble-bee zigzagged around their heads. Soon afterward thin clouds
began blowing over the summit, and just after three a storm
1 84 Mt. Shasta in History and Legend
broke in terrific fury, hailstones resembling small mushrooms falling
heavily. "The thermometer soon sank below zero, hail gave place to
snow and darkness came on like night. The wind, rising to the highest
pitch of violence, boomed and surged like breakers on a rocky coast.
The lightnings flashed amid the desolate crags in terrible accord, their
tremendous muffled detonations unrelieved by a single echo." Near
the hot springs Jerome concluded that it was impossible to proceed
(though Muir thought they had a good chance to get down), so at the
fumarole they stayed. Sometime in the early part of the night, after
two feet of snow had fallen, the storm vanished into thin air as quickly
as it had come. They dared not go to sleep, even if their sufferings
would allow them, for fear the volcanic gases would collect in sufficient
quantities to suffocate them. The dawn came, but the early morning
sun seemed to have no heat. "At length," says Muir, "about eight
o'clock on this rare first of May, we rose to our feet, some seventeen
hours after lying down, and began to struggle homeward. At ten
o'clock we reached camp and were safe. We were soon mounted and
on our way down to thick sunshine; violets appeared along the edges
of the trail, and the chaparral was coming into bloom, with young
lilies and larkspurs in rich profusion. How beautiful seemed the
golden sunbeams streaming through the woods, and warming the brown
furrowed boles of cedar and pine. The birds observed us as we passed,
and we felt like speaking to every flower."
In the summer of 1878, B. A. Colonna of thj United States Coast
and Geodetic Survey spent nine days on the mountain, the last four
alone sleeping at the hot springs 300 or 400 feet from the top. He lost
fifteen pounds in weight during that time. His pulse in repose was
between 100 and 105, while the slightest exertion sent it up to 120.
On the first of August he succeeded in accomplishing what he went up
for, heliographing to Mt. Helena, 192 miles to the south. The same
year Capt. A. F. Rodgers of the same Survey placed on the summit the
metal signal tower that stood until 1905. Colonna succeeded in getting
twenty Indians to carry his equipment up, but they did not remain,
in fact did not even go to the top, although within a few hundred
feet of it.
For the story of Mt. Shasta before its discovery by white men we
must look to the Indian legends and to the mountain itself. The
geological history of the mountain has been most interestingly told
by J. S. Diller: "It has long been the field whereon was fought the
battle between the elements within the earth and those above it. In
the early days the forces beneath were victorious and built up the
mountain in face of wind and weather, but gradually the volcanic
Mt. Shasta in History and Legend 185
energy reached its climax, declined, and passed away. Fiery lava has
been succeeded by arctic cold."*
"The Indians have a very different idea of its creation, but it is
equally interesting. The Shasta tribe, from whom it takes its name,
is practically extinct — the proximity of a mining camp is not conducive
to length of days in either red or white men — but fortunately their
story of the mountain has been preserved for us by Joaquin Miller.
"The Great Spirit created this mountain first of all. He pushed
down snow and ice from the skies through a hole which he made by
turning a stone round and round, then he stepped out of the clouds on
to the mountain top, and descended and planted the trees all around
by putting his finger on the ground. The sun melted the snow and the
water ran down and nurtured the trees and made the rivers. After
that he made the fish for the rivers out of the small end of his staff.
He made the birds by blowing some leaves which he took up from the
ground among the trees. After that he made the beasts out of the
remainder of his stick, the grizzly bear out of the big end, and made
him master over all the others. He made the grizzly so strong that
he feared him himself, and had to go up on the top of the mountain to
sleep at night. Afterward, when the Great Spirit wished to remain
on earth, and make the sea and some more land, he converted Mt.
Shasta by a great deal of labor into a wigwam, and built a fire in the
center of it and made it a pleasant home. After that his family came
down from the Heavens and they all have lived in the mountain ever
since. Before the white man came they could see the fire ascending
from the mountain by night and the smoke by day.
"One late and severe springtime many thousand snows ago there
was a great storm about the summit and the Great Spirit sent his
youngest and fairest daughter up to the hole in the top, bidding her
speak to the storm that came up from the sea, and tell it to be more
gentle or it would blow the mountain over. He bade her do this hastily,
and not put her head out, lest the wind would catch her in the hair and
blow her away.
"The child hastened to the top, but having never yet seen the
ocean (where the wind was born), when it was white with the storm
she put her head out to look that way, when lo! the storm caught her
long red hair, and blew her out on to the mountain side. Here she
could not fix her feet in the hard smooth ice and snow, and so slid on
and on down to the dark belt of firs below the snow.
*Quoted from Mr. Diller's "Mt. Shasta, a Typical Volcano," in the Physiog-
raphy of the United States. National Geographic Society Monographs, 1895.
1 86 Mt. Hood in Autumn
"Now the grizzly bears possessed all the wood and all the land
even down to the sea at that time, and were very numerous and power-
ful. They were not exactly beasts then, although they were covered
with hair, lived in caves, and had sharp claws; but they walked on two
legs, and talked and used clubs to fight with, instead of their teeth
and claws as they do now. At this time there was a family of grizzlies
living close up to the snow and the father found this little child, red
like fire, hid under a fir bush, and took her to the old mother, who said
she would bring her up with the other children. When their eldest
son was grown up he married her and many children were born to them.
But being part of the Great Spirit and part of the grizzly bear, these
children did not resemble either of their parents, but partook somewhat
of the nature and likeness of both. Thus was the red man created, for
these children were the first Indians."
AAA
Mt. Hood in Autumn
By MARGARET A. GRIFFIN
Across the miles of wooded ranges we have seen Mt. Hood, serene
and calm, and seemingly changeless, and have felt that if we could
make one pilgrimage to its summit, we would be satisfied. But our
friend Elijah Coalman, of Mt. Hood fame, who has climbed the moun-
tain more than 365 times, tells us that no two of these climbs were
alike; and this has also been the experience of many of us who are less
familiar with the mountain.
Knee-deep in soft snow, with all available wearing apparel pressed
into service, we have climbed a blustery mountain and looked down
on a sea of billowy clouds hiding the valley beneath. On crusted
snow, yet under the bluest of skies, against which the great crags
stood out in sharp relief, we have climbed a sunny slope and been
rewarded with a far-reaching view from the summit. Then, again, in
late September, when Mt. Hood had yielded its harvest of snow, we
have climbed through banks of fog to quiet heights which seemed
apart from all the world. Great walls of solid blue ice revealed a beauty
that we had not dreamed was there; and where before our feet had
trod in safety on firm snow-fields, deep chasms stretched across the
way. Steel Cliff seemed many times its usual size and its worn and
wrinkled sides were colored in dull purple, yellow, red and brown.
Then, even while we rested on the summit, the scene changed. A
Mt. Hood in Autumn 187
mighty wind arose, filled the air with flying snow and sent us hurrying
from our shelter, down the icy steeps. Faces gleamed red under the
biting sleet, and hair and clothing gathered the frost, until we looked
like strange inhabitants of another world.
So we have learned that Mt. Hood holds a never-ending variety
for us in changing mood and season; and, never weary, we go again,
and long to go again and yet again.
And, remembering that most wonderful climb of all, the autumn
trip, we went again in September of this year. As there were forest
fires near Government Camp, we had some doubt that we should be
able to get through. We were prepared, however, with axe and spade,
but had no occasion to use them, and in fact had no real difficulty,
although the fires were close in some places and it was necessary to
remove a few burning snags from the road. It was a wonderful sight,
though a sad one, to see the smoldering trees gleaming red through the
dusk like lighted windows of a hillside city.
After a night at the timber-line, we climbed the mountain leisurely,
taking all the time we could wish for enjoying to the full old Mt. Hood
in autumn. The snow-fields, as on the previous autumn climb, were
melted to such an extent that all the cliffs towered above us, and
"south-side Hood," as it is known to scores of summer climbers, was
so changed that they would hardly have recognized it. We made our
way carefully over the snow-fields, where crevasse after crevasse was
skirted, or crossed where snow bridges were safe. Peering down into
these crevasses, we saw the curving halls of blue ice, leading down and
away, tempting the imagination with visions of beauty just out of
sight. About a quarter of a mile below Crater rock we came upon some
ice caves on White River glacier where entry was possible. We picked
our way carefully as far in as it seemed wise to go. We looked down
into the dark blue of the inaccessible depths, and across into chambers
where the penetrating light seemed to bring in the blue sky itself to
be held captive by icy fingers.
We reached the summit and Elijah Coalman's shelter, and were
soon enjoying a good dinner, the material evidence of his hospitality,
and we tried to show that we appreciated the fact that hot biscuits
on the summit of Hood are something out of the usual. When dark-
ness had fallen over that little band of friends on the top of the world,
the full moon sent her light to show us the mountain and her slopes as
we had never before seen them. We saw the big fire in Iron Creek canyon
and smaller smoldering fires around the valley, but we could not see
far on account of the smoke. That was a new experience — the fulfil-
ment of our wish to pass the night "up there close to the stars."
1 88 Mt. Hood in Autumn
Our descent the following day was made as leisurely as our climb
had been. Crater rock at this time stood perhaps three hundred feet
above the snow at the end of the hog-back, and we climbed to its
summit. We found the rock to be somewhat loose and crumbling,
and although there were no difficult places, the loose rocks made it
necessary to exercise care. From the top we watched the rocks, great
and small, come tumbling and thundering down the sides of Steel Cliff
to the glacier beneath.
Several later parties have been to the mountain in the open autumn
weeks that followed. A party of our young men spent a day on the
glaciers, and brought home to the less adventurous a harvest of beauti-
ful photographs. Two of the party, T. R. Conway and H. L. Wolbers,
scaled Illumination rock, which at that time afforded a climb of about
five hundred feet, roughly estimated. This point lies between Zigzag
and Reid glaciers and consists of two pinnacles joined by a saddle, the
whole following the general slope of the mountain. The climbers
crossed the head of Zigzag glacier, and, as the hour was late, made no
attempt to choose the most feasible route, but climbed from a point
below the higher pinnacle, on the upper side of the rock. Unlike
Crater rock, Illumination rock was found to be of hard smooth stone
of columnar formation. The parts separated easily and made the
climbing somewhat difficult; and the smoothness of the rock and the
absence of holds made a demand upon the physical strength. A large
sloping rock, with an actual level of two or three feet in diameter,
forms the top of the higher pinnacle.
The United States Forest Service has recently erected a shelter
at timber-line, which will serve alike the summer and autumn climbers.
It is the intention, also, to erect a shelter on the summit, in addition
to the one now used as a lookout station for the purpose of locating
forest fires. This second shelter will be for the use of climbers, and may
be occupied by those wishing to remain on the summit overnight.
Just what accommodation will be afforded is not known at this time,
but undoubtedly the number of climbers will be increased by the exist-
ence of these cabins. Doubtful weather will become a less serious con-
sideration. Many who have feared the strain of a hurried trip will
be able to make the climb leisurely by remaining on the summit over
night, and will have time and strength to spare for side trips to the
glaciers and for seeing what the region has to offer.
A climber making his initial trip to the summit of Mt. Hood might
prefer to go in the summer months, when the treacherous crevasses
are covered with tons of snow which make traveling much more safe,
when the big crevasse is scarcely more than a huge crack, and sufficient
Views showing condition of the glaciers of Mt. Hood in October, iqi 7. Upper — Ice
caves in White River glacier Middle— Great seracs in White River glacier. Lower —
Seracs in Zigzag glacier.
Photographs by F. I. Jones
Views from Silver Star mountain. June
Upper— Mt. St. Helens. Middle— Mt.
Lower — Mt. Hood
Photographs by F. I . Jones
17. iqi 7
Adams.
The Silver Star Trip 189
snow clings to the last thousand feet to weigh down the loose rock and
make the climbing easier. But the true student of nature will find the
autumn mountain much more interesting; he will read its story more
clearly when the snow has gone and the rocky outlines are exposed to
his view. The adventurous man will find more to attract him. The
climber will find a mountain new to him, and usually much better
climbing weather. The camera man will find an unlimited field. And
lovers of the mountain itself for its own sake will find a new satisfaction
in its different phases.
AAA
The Silver Star Trip
By MARION SCHNEIDER
Silver Star mountain, in Skamania county, Washington, about
twenty-five miles northeast of Portland, has long been considered by
the Mazamas as a desirable objective point for a local outing; but it
was not until this year that we finally succeeded in making the trip,
after postponing it twice on account of weather conditions.
On June 16, 1917, a party of over ninety Mazamas, under the
leadership of Alfred Parker and J. G. Edwards, left the Union Depot at
2 p. m. on a special train for Moulton, Washington. Upon our arrival
there at 4 p. m., we set out at once on the eight-mile walk to camp.
The first part of the journey was over an old wood road which
wound about with such a gradual ascent that many of us were sorely
tempted to loiter in the evening sunshine and enjoy the occasional
glimpses of the Lewis river below us. Presently we were actually
climbing up and up, through a wide region of burned timber. There
was something pathetic in the charred trunks of great trees, which
seemed to stand as sentinels guarding the desolate hills about. Here
and there we would catch a glimpse of a lonely little farmhouse in a
distant clearing, but the cabins we saw were mostly deserted and almost
hidden by young firs and maples.
After a climb of several hours we left the road and followed a path
along the ridge. Dusk was just beginning to close in about the ranges
opposite, and as we tramped along the hills gradually became an in-
distinct blur in the twilight. Then suddenly we descended into the
light of a cheery camp-fire, near an old deserted cabin, and were wel-
comed by several Mazamas who had gone up earlier in the day. After
a jolly little social gathering, the peace and quiet of the big out-of-
doors settled over the sleeping camp.
i go The Silver Star Trip
Just as the light was breaking over the distant mountains, we
rolled up our dunnage and started to climb once more. For the first
few miles the trail led through a veritable jungle of underbrush. Then
we came to the real mountain, with its rocks, its flowers, its snow and
the scrubby trees twisted by the fierce winds. Up and up we climbed
into a meadow of brilliant mountain flowers; up across the ridges into
the deep snow. Our progress was slow, for the view began to unfold
below us and each of us wanted to linger and enjoy every step. Those
of the party who had climbed Mt. Adams were constantly marveling
at the familiar scenes brought vividly before them.
At noon we reached the summit, climbing up out of the timber
and snow to the very crest of Silver Star mountain. At this vantage
point of rock, 4358 feet above sea level, we stood thrilled by one of the
finest views ever given a mountaineer to enjoy. It was a day of per-
fect sunshine; the horizon cloudless; snow peaks as far as the eye
could see; Adams, Helens, Hood, Rainier and Jefferson all looming up
before us, and ridge upon ridge below us, with a wonderful valley
spread out at our feet.
At about one o'clock we left the summit. Some of the party spent
the next hour in glissading on the long snow-fields; others explored
the ridges and enjoyed the far-reaching view into the canyons beyond.
At seven o'clock the entire party was on board the special bound for
home, and about two hours later we were in Portland.
All who were so fortunate as to be able to take this trip will ever
remember it as one of the most noteworthy of our local outings.
AAA
The Camera in High Places
By R. L. GLISAN
The first time I took a camera on a mountain trip, my pleasure
increased tenfold. On previous occasions I had selected views from
the collections of others, thinking in this way I could get a better set
at less trouble than if I took any myself. I soon discovered that the
views I wanted most, no one seemed to take. With my own camera,
the interest in the trip increased. Always having in mind the possi-
bility of securing good views, I took more notice of what I saw, could
recall the scenery more vividly, and the photographs I secured brought
back a flood of memories which a purchased photograph never
awakened.
The Camera in High Places IQI
When I took my first photographs, I could not puzzle out the
failures, and the dread of repeating failures was discouraging. I began
making notes of the subject, stop, speed and light, using a small note-
book for that purpose. When my album of a particular outing was
ready, I noted the time and stop on the lower corner of the page and,
if I contemplated a similar trip another season, would look over the
album and refresh my memory as to the exposures. Each album,
page and film is numbered and films filed in sets on a card index
system.
I found the camera requires a more careful handling on the higher
elevations, and the season makes quite a difference. When I gave the
same exposure on the snow in winter that I gave under like conditions
in summer, I found the photographs were under-exposed. Glacial ice
requires more exposure than snow, and the early morning views re-
quire a much longer exposure than mid-day. To give concrete exam-
ples, using a 3 -A camera with a Goerz lens, I found a 32 stop and one-
fiftieth of a second gave the best results on snow-fields in summer, or
taking distant views or cloud effects. The early morning view of snow
peaks above camp requires often a fifth of a second or more, although
the light seemed perfect. My winter views on snow are generally 16
stop and one-fiftieth of a second in a fair light, and a 4 stop and twenty-
fifth on a dull day. Timber views in winter snow are about the hardest
views to take, and 32 stop and half a second or even a second give the
best results.
Excellent cloud effects can be secured by turning the camera
towards the sun and shielding the lens, using a 32 stop and one-fiftieth
of a second, or 32 and twenty-fifth. Glacial ice or crevasses require
an 8 and one-fiftieth second, or 4 and twenty-fifth, if the sun is not
bright. For rock work, 16 and a twenty-fifth give satisfactory detail
unless the sun is bright, when a quicker exposure can be made. In
the forest below the snow-line, it is nearly impossible to over-expose,
and stopping down to 32, I give ten to twenty seconds. This brings
out detail in light and shadow. An overcast or dull sky is preferable
for photographs in the forest.
Excellent night views of close-by snow peaks or other objects in
the moonlight can be secured with a wide open lens and one to three
hours exposure. I took a daylight and later a moonlight view of Mt.
Hood from timber-line. In the daylight view the snow outline of the
mountain blended with the sky, while in the moonlight view the moun-
tain was much whiter than the sky and strongly outlined. A moon-
light view of a snow-covered cabin with lighted windows was secured
with an hour's exposure.
iqz The Camera in High Places
A ray filter of moderate density may give distant snow peaks and
detail not otherwise procurable, but the filter has to be used with cau-
tion and often stopping the lens down will give the same results and
will prove much more reliable than the filter.
In photographing waterfalls, one can secure life in the falling
water and detail in the side rock walls by several successive exposures
of a fiftieth or twenty-fifth of a second with a fairly wide stop. For
years I did not use a tripod and consequently failed to secure satis-
factory views of waterfalls, trees, flowers, trails, etc. I always take
one into camp now, but to economize weight rarely take it on the
ascent of the mountains. The views taken on the ascent are generally
instantaneous of snow, glaciers, moving or distant objects, and gen-
erally there is no place or time to set up a tripod. If one uses a ray
filter for the distant views on a climb or on the summit, a convenient
rock is generally available on which to rest the camera.
One of the greatest difficulties is to secure a photograph of distant
snow peaks on the horizon, and they can only be secured by using a
filter or by stopping down and giving a quick exposure. Even then
the failures are in the majority. Often one photograph fails to take
in sufficient scenery and excellent panoramas can be secured by setting
the camera on some flat surface and taking two or even three views,
turning the camera each time to take in an entirely new adjacent
section of the horizon. When the camera is in position to take the
right half of the view, for example, make a mark or place any small
object on the flat surface just under the center of the lens. Then
swing the back of the camera to take in the next section of the scenery
on the left with the lens as a pivot always over the mark and keeping
the same amount of sky, which is easily done by noticing how high
up on the side of the finder the edge of the scenery comes. Two or
three photographs can thus be secured which will take in more than
half of the horizon and should match perfectly and give a most val-
uable panorama. Your photographer can enlarge these views, using
the overlap in printing so as to blend and blot out the division line.
These remarks are intended for the beginner, and to him I make
no apology for their crudeness.
AAA
Far overhead against the arching blue
Gray ledges overhang from dizzy heights,
Scarred by a thousand winters and untamed.
— Bliss Carman
Address of Retiring President
WILLIAM P. HARDESTY
(Delivered at Annual Meeting Held in the
Club-Rooms, October i, 19/7)
FELLOW MEMBERS:
It seems to be an accepted and befitting custom that your retiring
president should give a brief review of the events of the Mazama year,
together with a discussion of our plans and policies. In accordance
therewith I shall endeavor to give a plain, unvarnished statement of
our doings for the year, relating our difficulties and failures as well as
our achievements.
It will occur to you at once that this has been an abnormal year.
The entry of the United States into the world war occurred in the very
middle of our official year. The thoughts of our people have naturally
been diverted to graver matters than Mazama recreational affairs, so
that interest in our various activities could not be so intense as before.
Some of our young men have entered the service of their country and
so are no longer with us. The rising cost of living and the call for every-
one to be kept at work, each to do his or her share, have operated to
reduce attendance on our outings (at least on the annual outing), and
many have also lapsed in membership.
Notwithstanding these adverse circumstances, I think we have
had a fairly successful year. Our educational courses were continued
during last winter, with lectures at our rooms ; and we have had several
good lectures at the Central Library, one quite noteworthy. Our an-
nual magazine maintained the high standard of excellence set in past
years. An echo of war times was found in a Red Cross course in first
aid, taken by our members in these rooms.
Our local walks and outings have had an attendance about up to
the normal and have been the source of much enjoyable recreation.
Our annual Mt. Hood short outing was this year taken later than usual,
to afford our visitors in attendance at the N. E. A. convention an oppor-
tunity to climb a real mountain. Though successful, the attendance
on this outing was not what it would have been in normal times.
Our annual two-weeks' outing took us this year to rugged Mt.
Jefferson, an Oregon peak until this year almost unknown to the present
generation of Mazamas, except from afar. The outing was most suc-
cessful and enjoyable, and we may well congratulate ourselves that the
difficult and dangerous ascent was made by the great majority of those
in camp, without a single mishap. From a financial standpoint this
1 94 Address of Retiring President
outing was less successful, there being a deficiency of about $350 in the
receipts, as compared with the expenses. The advance by leaps and
bounds in the cost of provisions and equipment (after we had fixed
our low rates) was largely responsible for this. The war also materially
reduced the attendance.
For the first time steps were taken towards securing a lodge
somewhere in the mountains, a committee (very strong in personnel)
having been appointed to investigate and report. Certain difficulties
in the way of desirability or success in maintaining a lodge soon became
obvious, and the committee made a report on progress and was then
continued for another year. The lodge question will evidently have
to wait for more auspicious conditions.
One consideration, which I think the committee has recognized,
is that a mountaineering lodge should be what its name implies, a place
of refuge against the elements for members on exploring and outing
expeditions, not a country club nor yet a place for the Owl Club's all-
night sessions. My own idea is that a beginning on a small scale,
the utilization of one modest log house or cabin at first, with addition
of other units from time to time as experience and needs justify, would
probably be the safest course.
A fully-equipped and commodious lodge establishment will take
much money, to be raised by subscription or possibly by issue of bonds
or stocks, as what funds could be spared from our general fund would
not go very far.
Coming now to our activities and recreations made possible by
our possession of club-rooms and other quarters, I may say a word.
We have here, in this one room, over 0,00 square feet of space, which
has been used in the main for purely social and recreational purposes.
So far as I know, this is the only mountaineering club in America that
has anything like so much space for club-room purposes. Our sister
club, the Mountaineers, of Seattle, has lately opened up a fine club-
room, but with less than half the space afforded by our room. We have
also a cloak-room, which, unfortunately, has been pressed into service
for storage of all kinds of impedimenta. For the last six months of
the year we have also rented a small room on the third floor of this
building to receive the surplus of our really fine collection of books,
magazines and other material for a library appropriate for an organi-
zation like ours. It was one of my ambitions when taking office to see
our library fully organized, with everything classified and card-indexed,
but this will have to go over to the new year.
In every other similar club the maintenance of a library devoted
to mountaineering, exploration, and dissemination of the knowledge
Address of Retiring President 195
of natural things, has been one of the first and most essential functions.
Such things have been a sadly neglected part of our Mazama life, and
we must confess that, here in this room particularly, the social fea-
tures have overshadowed all others. To maintain our library in
proper order after it is once arranged, and to do the clerical work that
is required, it appears that a salaried assistant secretary and librarian,
giving certain hours of his or her time each day, will be a necessity.
But even this will not suffice to secure full use of the library, as our
present quarters (all in one room) are not conducive to studious habits.
I believe that the addition of the circulating feature to our library,
as in others, will be necessary to secure all its benefits. When we con-
sider that out of our large resident membership perhaps not over fifty
or seventy-five of us habitually visit the club-room at all, and only
by circulation of our books can the remainder fully profit from the
library, the need of the circulating annex becomes obvious.
I venture to suggest to the incoming officers, and to all members
here tonight, that we should devote more effort to securing for our
non-resident membership, and for the large resident membership that
cannot avail themselves of our club-room facilities, all the benefits
possible for them.
Finally, I wish to express my thanks to all members for their
support of the Executive Council, now retiring; and to the other officers
and heads of committees for their efforts to keep the Mazama ship sail-
ing on an even keel and with a reasonable amount of canvas to the
wind. We will now make way for new officers and crew, with best
wishes for their success in handling the affairs of the club for the en-
suing year.
AAA
Reports of Lodge Committee
September 6, 1917.
EXECUTIVE COUNCIL OF THE MAZAMAS,
Portland, Oregon.
Gentlemen:
In November, 1916, the Executive Council appointed a committee,
consisting of R. L. Glisan, chairman; John A. Lee, R. H. Atkinson,
C. B. Woodworth and L. A. Nelson, to investigate the cost of a lodge
for the club, site, building, etc. As chairman of that committee, I
desire to submit the following report :
The committee earnestly considered various sites, but so far have
not found one that combines sufficient advantages to warrant its selec-
tion. During the summer months the members can and undoubtedly
would prefer to camp out in the open, and the Forest Service has erected
a number of attractive cabins and shelters along the forestry trails
which are rapidly spreading over the state, and especially in the vicinity
of the Columbia highway.
We understood that in making our selection we should give a
preference to a lodge site where the members could specialize on winter
sports. We examined several locations suggested, giving special atten-
tion to the locality near Bonneville on the Highway. Whenever there
is any snow-fall along the Columbia highway, it is generally heavier at
Bonneville than at any other place. Winter before last the snow-fall
there was several feet in depth, but last winter there was practically
no snow and one could not count on it there except at very brief inter-
vals. None of the places along the Highway offer attractive slopes for
snow-shoes or skis, as most of the trails lead up rather precipitous
canyons and do not branch out until some distance back.
A site was suggested on the south slope of Mt. Hood not far from
Government Camp. The expense of reaching such a site would be
less than on the north side, but would take longer time. Any place
on the slope of Mt. Hood would be quite a matter of expense and time,
which would prove a severe handicap.
We are indebted to your president, Mr. Hardesty, for considerable
data which he has secured by correspondence with the other mountain
clubs.
I have personally seen the site of the Parsons lodge which the
Sierra Club erected in the Tuolumne Meadows in the Yosemite National
Park. This is a location ideal for summer trips, but the expense and
time of making a winter trip would be a considerable item. I am
familiar with the general locality of the Muir lodge erected by the
Reports of Lodge Committee 197
Southern California section of the Sierra Club near Sierra Madre,
east of Los Angeles.
I have also seen the site of the club lodge of the Alpine Club of
Canada at Banff and of their shelter camp at Lake O'Hara in the
Canadian Rockies. In connection with the lodge they have a number
of tents and can accommodate quite a number of members of the club
who stop over at Banff. The surroundings, however, are not particu-
larly attractive from a mountaineering standpoint and it is more as a
matter of convenience and a help to the members on their mountain
trips. Lake O'Hara is about a day's tramp from the railroad and the
shelter cabin there would undoubtedly be a great help and obviate the
necessity of packing in blankets and cooking utensils.
I intend this year to visit the Mountaineers' lodge in the Cascade
mountains, fifty-eight miles east of Seattle and one and one-half miles
from the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Railroad. The round trip
rate on the railroad is very low and the lodge is quite accessible. They
can depend on snow for about six months in the year and snow-shoeing
is good and they are developing slopes for skiing and tobogganing.
Unfortunately for the Mazamas we have no place near any of the
railroads that can be reached within a reasonable time at a reasonable
expense.
The Mountaineers also have seventy-four acres of land near Puget
Sound which they are keeping as a rhododendron preserve and have
named this place "Kitsap Lodge." They have an old log cabin on
the property now but otherwise have not developed this site.
The College Club Outing Association of Seattle have quite an
attractive log cabin which they call "Roaring Camp." We have also
received through Mr. Hardesty a bulletin of the Prairie Club of Chicago,
with an account of their Beach House.
If desired by the Council, the committee will continue its investi-
gations for another season, but cannot offer much encouragement in
the selection of a site which would meet with universal approval.
Respectfully submitted.
R. L. GLISAN, Chairman.
Reports of Lodge Committee
November 20, 1917.
EXECUTIVE COUNCIL OF THE MAZAMAS,
Portland, Oregon.
Gentlemen :
The Lodge Committee submits herewith supplementary and final
report.
After careful study and investigation, it is our belief that the proper
site for a lodge is on the Mt. Hood high park line, the site to be selected
preferably after a permanent road has been completed around the east
side connecting the Barlow and Hood River roads, and certainly not
before the present roads are hard-surfaced so the site selected can be
reached with reasonable expenditure of time and money.
We do not believe any forest lodge advisable at present. By
forest lodge we refer to a building erected at some point within easy
access from Portland for the benefit of members who would spend
week-ends there. Such a building would have to be extra commodious,
would cost a large sum, and we do not believe would appeal to nature-
lovers or carry out the mountaineering idea which the club must ever
keep in mind.
We believe the club should lend its aid in encouraging the Forest
Service to establish shelter huts at convenient points in the Columbia
National Park.
Respectfully submitted.
R. L. GLISAN, Chairman.
Report of Local Walks Committee
The local walks for the Mazama year 1916-1917, were very success-
ful, the total attendance on the fifty-four trips being 3242, making an
average of 60.
The outing to Silver Star mountain was especially attractive.
This trip had been scheduled twice before but had never been taken.
The annual Mt. Hood outing was also successful, 83 persons succeeding
in reaching the summit.
The Larch mountain winter trip continues to be the most popular
of any in the schedule and seems to have an unfailing attraction.
It is becoming more difficult each year to secure absolutely new
places to visit.
The following is a complete list of local walks taken during the year :
Date Time Places Visited Leader Attendance
IQl6
Oct. 7-8 ii Days Eagle creek .................. {Ly W^AyerV.' '.'.'.'. '}l°°
Oct. 1 1 | Day Moonlight walk, Cornell road —
Westover road ............. F. P. Luetters ....... 1 30
Oct. ,5 , Day Wauna peak ................. frawuSSSlV.':;:} *
Oct. 22 i Day Carlton— Mt. Pisgah ......... Wm. W. Evans ...... 32
Oct. 2Q i Day Holbrook — Hillsboro .......... Agnes Lawson ...... 6
Nov. 5 i Day Baker's Bridge ............... W. W. Ross ........ 56
Nov. 12 \ Day Parkrose — Columbia river ..... J. I. Teesdale ....... 71
Nov. IQ \ Day Council Crest — Oswego ........ Guy Thatcher ....... 74
Nov. 26 \ Day Beaverton — Westover Terrace.. Dr. Wm. F. Amos. . . 58
Dec. 3 \ Day Mt. Scott ................... Margaret A. Griffin. . 47
Dec. 10 \ Day Canyon road — Barnes road. . . . Jean Richardson. ... 7Q
Dec. 1 7 i Day Oregon City — Oswego ......... /Helen Herman ...... \
\Martha M. Gasch . . . / ?
Dec. 24 \ Day Mt. Tabor — Errol Heights ..... Harriett E. Monroe.. 35
Dec. 30! Days Bull Run— Marmot.. . A.B.Williams ...... 39
jan. ij
IQI7
Jan. 7 \ Day Riverside — Elk Rock ......... Forrest L. Foster ..... 74
Jan. 13-14 \\ Days Larch mountain .............. ..... l87
Jan. 21 £ Day Fairmount boulevard — Barnes
road ...................... Elaine Ewell ........ 93
Jan. 28 \ Day "Mystery walk" .............. L. A. Nelson ......... 54
Feb. 4 \ Day Rose City Park — Elwood ...... Mary L. Knapp ...... 86
Feb. 1 1 \ Day Macleay Park— Blasted Butte . W. W. Evans ....... 55
Feb. 1 8 i Day Columbia highway — Multno-
mah falls to Rooster Rock . . /E. C. Sammons ..... 1
\R. H. Atkinson ..... /IC
Feb. 25 \ Day Portland Heights — Marquam
hill ....................... W. W. Ross ........ 40
Mar. 4 i Day Vancouver river road ......... {j^G^S^.' .' '. '. ' '. } "
Mar. 7 \ Day Moonlight walk, Washington ?$.
Park — Arlington Heights .... Nettie G. Richardson 6
Mar. 1 1 \ Day Parkplace — Clackamas river . . . Rhoda Ross ........ 86
200
Report of Local Walks Committee
Date
Time
Places Visited
Leader
Mar. 1 8
5 Day
Whitwood Court — St. Johns .
' \Cinita Nunan
Mar. 25
A Day
Oswego — Oregon City
. . Lola Creighton
Apr i
[ Dav
Moffat Creek falls
H H Riddell
Apr. 8
Apr. 1 5
2 Day
Kings Heights — Mt. Calvary.
Eagle creek
. W. P. Hardesty
John A Lee
Apr. 22
Day
Troutdale — Auto Club
. P. G. Payton
Apr. 29
Day
Champoeg
. . Jacques Letz
May 5-6
IDays
Greenleaf peak — Rock Creek
canyon
J C Bush
May 12-13
May 19-20
May 27
May 30
\ Days
\ Days
Day
Cherry Grove — Coast range..
Molalla — Wilhoit Springs. . . .
Rooster Rock — Bull Run. . . .
Teuberry hill
. J. A. Ormandy
. . C. B. Woodworth.. . .
. . Harry Wolbers
Byron J Beattie
June 3-4
\ Days
Cook's hill — Bald mountain. .
. . Frank I. Jones
June 10 i
Day
Katani point
. Guy Thatcher
/J. G. Edwards .
une 16-17 i
\ Days
Silver Star mountain
•\AlfredF.Parker. .
June 23-24 i \ Days
July i i Day
July 2 \ Day
July
July
i
2
3-4
8
i \ Days
i Day
July 14-15 2 Days
July 22 \ Day
July 29 i Day
Sept. 1-3 25 Days
Sept. 9 i Day
Sept. 15-16 \\ Days
Sept. 23 i Day
Sept. 27 * Day
Sept. 29-30 i \ Days
Estacada — Clear creek
Strawberry festival
Dowling farm
Wahkeena and Multnomah falls
Annual Mt. Hood outing
Oswego lake ,
Steamboat picnic
Herman creek — Wahtum lake
— Eagle creek
Wahclella falls
Table mountain
Gale's peak — Roderick falls . .
Moonlight walk, Arlington
Heights — Canyon road
Oneonta gorge
Anne Dillinger
J. M. Mason
E. H. Dowling
A. B. Williams
Harriett E. Monroe
Robt. E. Hitch
Roy W. Ayer
Elsie Silver
Nellie Dalcour
A. S. Peterson
W. P. Forman
Harry L. Wolbers . .
Raymond Con way. .
R. J. Davidson. . . .
Edith Nordeen. .
J.C. Bush
Attendance
78
102
55
28
75
47
63
18
42
22
42
82
40
16
98
j-17
54
90
19
92
145
50
20
82
21
55
59
Local Walks Committee Financial Report
Amount collected on local walks
Profit from Mt. Hood outing
Profit from steamboat picnic
Advertising
Total
Schedules
Postage, etc. (estimated)
Supplies, etc. .
Balance
RECEIPTS
$ 200.46
127.30
34.20
48.00
$409 . 96
EXPENDITURES
$100.50
42.00
94.80
237.30
$172.66
ROBERT E. HITCH. Chairman
Upper — Aneroid lake, Wallowa mountains, Oregon.
...any" ~
Lower — East fork of Eagle Creek canyon, with Eagle Cap in background at left.
Photographs by United States Forest Service
Mazama Outing for igi8
• ^OR their twenty-fifth annual outing, in 1918,
the Mazamas have selected the mountains of
Wallowa county, Oregon. This is the extreme
northeasterly county of the state, bordering upon
Washington and Idaho. Its mountains range in
elevation from 6000 to 9800 feet, and include the
prominent peaks called Eagle Cap, Sentinel peak,
Bennett peak and Marble mountain.
Except for the work done by the United States
Forest Service, this beautiful and interesting region
is practically unexplored, and affords opportunity
for much original investigation. In some respects, it
is entirely different from any locality or district
hitherto visited by the Mazamas. In addition to
its mountains, there are numerous lakes, the largest
of these being the well-known and much admired
Wallowa lake. One of the others (Aneroid lake)
is situated at an elevation of about 7000 feet. In
what is known as the lake basin are more than a
score of crystal-clear lakes which were stocked with
trout some years ago, so that excellent fishing may
be fairly counted upon as one of the possibilities of
the trip.
The date of the outing has not yet been definitely
determined, but it will probably be July 13 to 2,8.
A prospectus giving all necessary details will be
issued well in advance of the outing — probably in
February. Any information desired may be ob-
tained from MR. ROBERT E. HITCH, Chairman
Mazama Outing Committee, 503 Fenton Building,
Portland, Oregon.
Report of the Certified Public Accountant who
Examined the Financial Affairs
of the Mazamas
INCOME AND PROFIT & LOSS ACCOUNT
For the period October /, 79/6 to September 29, 79/7
INCOME:
Members' Dues $1,134.00
Miscellaneous :
Balance of 1916 Rose Carnival Prize . $ 12.50
Badges 6.25
Stationery .25 19.00
$1,153.00
LESS:
Loss in Committee's Transactions :
Losses:
Magazine Publication . . $173.06
Mt. Jefferson Outing . . 371.97 $545.03
Profits:
Mt. Hood Outing — 1916 . . 50-2,5
Mt. Hood Outing — 1917 . 131-55
Local Walks 206.21 388.01 157.02
GROSS INCOME . . . $995.98
EXPENSES :
Club Room Rent $370.00
Telephone Rent and Tolls .... 63.03
Printing and Stationery General . . . 342.04
Furniture and Fixture Expense . . . . 87.50
Parade Expense . 19.80
Entertainment Expense 56.50
Lecture Expense 68.50
Library Expense 6.65
Keys 2.70
Insurance 8.25
Sundries 83.64 1,108.61
NET Loss FOR YEAR . . . $112.63
Balance Sheet
As at September 29, 7917
ASSETS
Cash at Banks :
U. S. National Bank — Checking Fund . . $1,042.87
U. S. National Bank — Savings Deposit . . 500.00 1,542.87
Club Room Furniture and Camp Equipment i ,000.00
Insurance Premium Unexpired 7.15
$2,550.02
LIABILITIES
Accounts Payable $ 23.50
Surplus 2,526.52
$2,550,02
Portland, Oregon, November 12, 1917.
To the Members of
THE MAZAMA COUNCIL,
Portland, Oregon.
Dear Sirs :
In accordance with your instructions I have audited the accounts of the
Mazamas for the fiscal year ended September 29, 1917, and in my opinion the
accompanying Balance Sheet and Income and Profit &z Loss Statements reflect
the transactions for the period under review and the financial condition of the
Mazamas as at September 29, 1917.
The valuation placed upon the club-room furniture and camp equipment is
considered to be conservative. This asset is protected by insurance for a like
amount.
Cash funds on deposit were reconciled with the treasurer's statements and
verified by a certificate received from the bank.
I examined receipted invoices, cancelled checks and bank statements produced
by the treasurer and the various committees and found them to be in order.
Yours truly,
ROBERT F. RISELING,
Certified Public Accountant.
What "Mazama" Stands For
The word "Mazama" is derived from the name of the mountain
goat which makes its home high up among the pinnacles and glaciers
of the Cordilleran ranges of western America.
The Mazamas were organized on the summit of Mount Hood,
Oregon, July iq, 1894, 193 persons (155 men and 38 women) reaching
the top that day.
The purposes of the club are to explore mountains, to disseminate
authoritative and scientific information concerning them and to en-
courage the preservation of the forests and other features of mountain
scenery in their natural beauty.
Any person of good character who has climbed to the summit of
a snow peak on which there is at least one living glacier, and the top
of which can not be reached by any other means than on foot, is eligible
to membership. The annual dues are $3.00; initiation fee $3.00.
Mazama Presidents and Official Ascents
Presidents Official Ascents
1894 WILL G. STEEL Mt. Hood, Oregon
1895 WILL G. STEEL
L. L. HAWKINS* Mt. Adams, Washington
1896 C. H. SHOLES Mt. Mazama (named for Mazamas, 1896),
Mt. McLoughlin (Pitt), Crater Lake, Ore.
1897 H. L. PITTOCK Mt. Rainier, Washington
1898 HON. M. C. GEORGE Mt. St. Helens, Washington
1899 WILL G. STEEL Mt. Sahale (named by Mazamas, 1899), Lake
Chelan, Washington
1900 T. BROOK WHITE* Mt. Jefferson, Oregon
1901 MARK O'NEILL Mt. Hood, Oregon
1901 MARK O'NEILL Mt. Adams, Washington
1903 R. L. GLISAN Three Sisters, Oregon
1904 C. H. SHOLES Mt. Shasta, California
1905 JUDGE H. H. NORTHUP. . .Mt. Rainier, Washington
1906 C. H. SHOLES Mt. Baker (northeast side), Washington
1907 C. H. SHOLES Mt. Jefferson, Oregon
1908 C. H. SHOLES Mt. St. Helens, Washington
1909 M. W. GORMAN Mt. Baker (southwest side), and Shuksan, Wash.
1910 JOHN A. LEE Three Sisters, Oregon
191 1 H. H. RIDDELL Glacier Peak, Lake Chelan, Washington
1912 EDMUND P. SHELDON Mt. Hood, Oregon
1913 EDMUND P. SHELDON
H. H. PROUTY* Mt. Adams, Washington
1914 H. H. PROUTY* Mt. Rainier, Washington
1915 J. E. BRONAUGH Mt. Shasta, California
1916 FRANK B. RILEY Three Sisters, Oregon
1917 W. P. HARDESTY Mt. Jefferson, Oregon *Deceased
Mazama Organization for Year 1917-18
OFFICERS
ROY W. AVER (689 Everett St.) President
W. P. HARDESTY (60 E. 3 ist St. N.) Vice-President
ALFRED F. PARKER (330 Northwestern Bank Bldg.) Corresponding Secretary
Miss NETTIE G. RICHARDSON (888 E. Washington St.) Recording Secretary
Miss MARTHA E. NILSSON (320 E. i ith St. N.) Financial Secretary
LEROY E. ANDERSON (213 Northwestern Bank Bldg.) Treasurer
Miss LOLA I. CREIGHTON (920 E. Everett St.) Historian
ROBERT E. HITCH (503 Fenton Bldg.) Chairman Outing Committee
A. BOYD WILLIAMS (54 King St. N.) Chairman Local Walks Committee
COMMITTEES
Local Walks Committee — A. Boyd Williams, Chairman; Miss Agnes G. Lawson, V. L.
Ketchum, Harry L. Wolbers, Miss Vera E. Taylor.
Outing Committee — Robert E. Hitch, Chairman; J. C. Bush, Charles J. Merten.
Library Committee — Miss Lola I. Creighton, Chairman; Miss Beulah F. Miller, Leroy
E. Anderson, Miss Florence J. McNeil, W. P. Forman.
House Committee — Miss Jean Richardson, Chairman; Mrs. R. J. Davidson, E. F.
Peterson, Miss Agnes Plummer, J. A. Ormandy.
Entertainment Committee — Robert D. Searcy, Chairman; Miss Nellie M. Dalcour,
Miss Minnie Heath, Miss Edith Nordeen, Arthur Cook.
Educational Committee — G. W. Wilder, Chairman; W. L. Finley, Miss Ella P.
Roberts, Miss Harriett E. Monroe, J. E. Bronaugh.
Publication Committee — Alfred F. Parker, Chairman; Miss Pauline Geballe, Miss
Beatrice Young.
Membership Promotion Committee — T. Raymond Conway, Chairman; Miss Mar-
garet A. Griffin, C. E. Blakney.
Membership Committee — Robert E. Hitch, Chairman; Miss Lola I. Creighton,
Miss Nettie G. Richardson.
Auditing Committee — R. F. Riseling, Chairman; Miss Anne C. Dillinger, L. Van
Bebber.
Roll of Honor
Mazamas who are at the present time engaged in the military or naval
service of the United States or our allies
FRANK H. BAGLEY
Sixty-Sixth Aero Squadron
C. E. BLAKNEY
Aviation Corps
W. P. BODWAY
Branch of service not known
K. P. CECIL
First Lieutenant, Oregon Coast Artillery
W. W. EVANS
Corporal, Company D, i6?nd Regiment,
Forty-First Army Division
FORREST L. FOSTER
Company A, u6th Engineers
Forty-first Army Division
A. H. S. HAFFENDEN
Sergeant, Battery A, I4?th Field Artillery,
Forty-First Army Division
E.G.HENRY
Sixty-Sixth Aero Squadron
RALPH S. IVEY
Branch of service not known
E. C. JENNINGS
Civilian Field Corps
HENRY G. JOHNSON
Reserve Officers' Training Camp
THOMAS R. JONES
Lieutenant. Ordnance Department
F. G. KACH
Sergeant, Eighth Company, Oregon Coast Artillery
D. M. G. KERR
Canadian Army Medical Corps
HENRY A. LADD
University of Oregon Base Hospital Unit
F. H. McNEIL
Twenty-Third Engineers
ALAN BROOKS MORKILL
Lieutenant. Seventh Battalion,
Canadian Expeditionary Force
B. W. NEWELL
Reserve Officers' Training Camp
W. D. PEASLEE
Captain, 31 6th Engineers,
Ninety-First Army Uivision
ARTHUR L. ROBERTS
Company D. Third Telegraph Battalion
E. C. SAMMONS
Captain, United States Reserves,
Thirty-Fifth Army Division
J. MONROE THORINGTON
American Ambulance Corps
F. B. UPSHAW
Ensign, National Naval Volunteers
DEAN VAN ZANDT
Aviation Corps
Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs
of North America
In May, 1916, nine clubs and societies with common aims associated them-
selves in a Bureau with headquarters in New York. The membership now
numbers nineteen, comprising about 16,000 individual members, as follows:
1 . American Alpine Club, Philadelphia and New York.
2. American Civic Association, Washington.
3. Appalachian Mountain Club, Boston and New York.
4. British Columbia Mountaineering Club, Vancouver.
5. Colorado Mountain Club, Denver.
6. Explorers' Club, New York.
7. Fresh Air Club, New York.
8. Geographic Society of Chicago.
q. Geographical Society of Philadelphia.
10. Green Mountain Club, Rutland, Vermont.
1 1 . Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club, Honolulu.
12. Klahhane Club, Port Angeles, Wash.
13. Mazamas, Portland, Oregon.
14. Mountaineers, Seattle and Tacoma.
15. National Association of Audubon Societies, New York.
1 6. Prairie Club, Chicago.
17. Rocky Mountain Climbers' Club, Boulder, Colorado.
1 8. Sierra Club, San Francisco and Los Angeles.
iq. United States National Parks Service, Washington.
Among the common aims, aside from the exploration and mapping of moun-
tain regions and the ascent of leading peaks, are the creation, protection, and proper
development of National Parks and Forest Reservations, the protection of bird and
animal life, and of trees and flowers. Many of the clubs and societies issue illus-
trated publications on mountaineering, exploration and conservation of natural
resources, and are educating their members by means of lectures to a deeper appre-
ciation of nature.
The Bureau publishes an annual bulletin giving the officers, membership, dues,
publications, lantern slide collections, outings, and other matters of interest of each
club. Data on mountains and mountaineering activities is supplied in response to
inquiries.
Acquaintance with the literature of a subject is essential to efficient work in
the field, and the Bureau sends many important new books on mountaineering and
outdoor life to its members free of charge. A large collection of mountaineering
literature has been gathered in the central building of the New York Public Library
and the American Alpine Club has deposited its books therein, providing a permanent
fund for additions. A bibliography of this collection has been published by the
library. An extensive collection of photographs of mountain scenery is being
formed and is available to anyone wishing to supplement the literature of a region
with its scenery.
LE ROY JEFFERS, Secretary,
Librarian American Alpine Club,
476 Fifth Avenue, New York.
December, 1917.
Geographic Progress in the Pacific Northwest
By LEWIS A. MCARTHUR
The year 1917 has witnessed very little geographic progress in the Pacific
Northwest largely because of the fact that the greater part of the forces of the
United States Geoglogical Survey and United States Coast and Geodetic Survey
have been taken over by the military organizations. These organizations have
done little or no work in Oregon and Washington during the past twelve months
and there is a possibility they will do no geographic work here until the war is over.
This, of course, has had a very unfortunate effect on our geographic progress.
During the past eighteen months the Geoglogical Survey has engraved and
issued the Albany, Diamond Lake, Estacada, Arlington, Condon and Tualatin
quadrangles in Oregon, as well as Willamette Valley sheets numbers seven and eight.
It is understood that the Salem sheet is now in the hands of the engraver and the
Hillsboro sheet will probably be issued some time within the next few months.
Willamette Valley sheet number nine has been completed but never issued in its
final form.
The field work on the Kerby sheet in southwestern Oregon has been completed
and this sheet is available in its advanced stage. The field work on the Oregon
portion of the Troutdale sheet has also been completed and about one-half of the
Twickenham sheet in Wheeler county has been done in the field.
No topographical work has been done this year by the Geoglogical Survey in
Oregon although there is said to be a probability some of the sheets along the coast
may be completed for the War Department.
During the latter part of 1916 extensive triangulation nets were completed in
Jefferson, Crook, Deschutes and Lane counties. These furnish triangulation con-
trol for a large number of quadrangles in the Cascade National Forest and in the
Deschutes National Forest.
During the past year the United States Geological Survey has issued in their
final engraved form topographical sheets of Chehalis, Priest Rapids and Coyote
Rapids in Washington, and has also issued advanced sheets of the Mt. St. Helens,
Prosser, Pasco, Wallula and Connell quadrangles. The Walla Walla quadrangle
was almost entirely completed in 1916, but no work has been done since. It is
understood that the engraved maps for the Prosser, Pasco and Wallula sheets will
soon be issued.
One very interesting feature in connection with this work is that the United
States Geological Survey has established a new and probably highly accurate ele-
vation for Mt. St. Helens, 9671 feet. The advance sheet for the Mt. St. Helens
quadrangle will be very useful to the members of the Mazamas.
During the year the United States Forest Service, together with the Oregon
Geographic Board has been sending in considerable new information for new edi-
tions of Geological Survey maps. As a result, new printings of the Mt. Hood,
Blalock Island, Snoqualmie and Ashland sheets have been published with many
new names and other data.
The United States Coast and Geodetic Survey has completed a net of high class
triangulation from Utah to the Cascade range and several hundred points and
elevations were established. This work has not yet been published but it probably
will be within the next few months.
The Forest Service has done a good deal of intensive reconnaissance work
during the past year on isolated townships, but these maps are, of course, widely
Book Reviews , 2,09
scattered. During the year the Forest Service has made new maps of the Crater,
Umpqua, Santiam, Malheur, Wenaha, Umatilla, Columbia, Snoqualmie, Wenatchee
and Okanogan national forests. These maps are on a scale of one-half inch to the
mile and may be examined any time at the Forest Service headquarters in the Beck
Building, Portland, Oregon.
Work is now being done on on new maps of the Olympic, Rainier, Colville,
Wallowa, Minam, Fremont, Cascade and Siskiyou National Forests. The Forest
Service expects within the next year to begin the preparation of three-color large
scale atlas sheets of some of the forests. The Oregon Bureau of Mines has issued
an interesting photographic reproduction of its relief map of Oregon.
AAA
Book Reviews
Edited by PAULINE GEBALLE
"THE BOYS' BOOK OF In Mr. Warren H. Miller, (editor of "Fie Id and Stream")
HUNTING AND FISHING" up-and-coming boys have a real friend. He has not
forgotten the days of his youth, and his book discloses
a large and kindly understanding of boys and their needs. He has tried to inspire
them with a more definite aim in their out-of-door life by giving them a book es-
pecially prepared for them, which tells them exactly how to equip themselves, and
how to become real sportsmen — not mere target shooters and fishers of sunnies and
perch. He has kept the poor boys especially in mind, and has described the best
qualified outfits to be obtained at a reasonable expense.
The chapters on angling lay stress on game fishing. Fly casting for trout, and
fly and bait casting for bass are specialized; and complete details are given regarding
equipment, its cost, and how to handle it. In part two the author deals almost
exclusively with wing shooting. He advocates the shot gun in preference to the
rifle, as he aims at big game shooting, and considers the quick aiming of the shot gun
in wing shooting more akin to rifle aiming at big bounding game, than military prac-
tice with a rifle. Here, also, equipment and its cost are thoroughly discussed. The
chapters devoted to camping are rich in valuable information covering the many
branches of this broad subject. A week's camp for three boys is described in minute
detail.
The book will readily inspire confidence in boy readers. It is enhanced by
many illustrations, and the presentation of the technical information is relieved by
the narrative style. We share in wonderful upland trips in the brown October
days, in shore-bird shooting, and late November duck hunts. These we enjoy as
enthusiastically as does the "Kid," the author's eleven year old son, to whom we
are introduced, and whose success with his line and his little twenty-eight proves
his father's point that game fishing and wing shooting are not beyond the average
boy of twelve, who is willing to work to become a real sportsman.
MARGARET A. GRIFFIN
MILLER, WARREN H. The Boys' Book of Hunting and Fishing. iqi6. George H. Doran
Company, New York. $1.15.
(Supplied by the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America.)
2io Book Reviews
"Two SUMMERS IN THE In the upper regions of Kashmir, the northern province
ICE WILDS OF of India beyond the Himalayas, tower the rival peaks
EASTERN KARAKORAM" of the Karakoram range. In IQII and 1912, Dr. and
Mrs. Workman visited this little exploited region and
made extensive explorations of its glaciers and mountains.
Dr. Workman writes of the first summer's exploration of some of the important
Karakoram glaciers, and his wife covers the conquest the following year of the great
Rose glacier in the extreme eastern portion of the range, and the Doctor concludes
by an interesting study of the physiographical features of the various glaciers
visited.
To make the trips required previous knowledge of the country, months of
preparation, a careful distribution of reserve supplies at selected bases, a large reti-
nue of coolies and a knowledge of their peculiarities and the proper way of handling
them.
The Rose glacier is named after the native flowers which outstrip the other
plants in creeping up to adorn the base of this frozen leviathan, a glacier having a
continuous stretch of forty-six miles with affluent glaciers bearing in from either
side, forcing the ice to break under fearful pressure and forming crevasses, schrunds
and seracs, barriers to any but the most indomitable explorers. This wonderful
frozen river lies between ranges where the peaks are all over 20,000 and most are
22,000 feet high. The Workmans invaded this region with an army of coolies who
went often barefoot over the ice with ponderous packs, driving bands of sheep and
goats, as a moving meat supply. The fuel, as well as the food, had to be packed in
and frequently the supply trains on their way in ate most of the supplies and con-
sumed or cached the precious fagots, while the slightest suspicion of fuel or food
shortage gave ample excuse for the ever reluctant natives to rebel and even mutiny.
Countless little incidents keep up the interest. Three crows followed them
from below into the bleak frozen regions of the snow and ice and never left them until
the party returned to the grassy plains.
The explorers, spending weeks above the 16,000 foot contour, noticed the
elevation by an ever lessening appetite, a tendency to insomnia, with increased
exhilaration however, and without apparently lessening their vitality.
The book is profusely and superbly illustrated, the photographs showing a
chaotic wealth of unsurpassed glacial and mountain scenery. Hours could be spent
profitably on the photographs alone. The combination of text, photographs and
maps gives the reader a comprehensive idea of what must be the world's most fasci-
nating upper region. The work is an encyclopedia of glacial information presented
in such an interesting style that a hurried glance impels a complete perusal. The
average reader with a few isolated peaks to his credit is overwhelmed with the
immensity of it all. R. L. GLISAN
WORKMAN. FANNY BULLOCK and WORKMAN. WILLIAM HUNTER. Two Summers in the Ice
Wilds of Eastern Karakoram. 1917. E. P. Dutton & Co., New York. $8.00.
(Supplied by the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America.)
"THE BOYS' BOOK OF ^ This book is particularly interesting to boys and may
CANOEING AND SAILING" prove a valuable means for gaining their companion-
ship. The information is well rendered and could easily
be made practical. His invitations through word pictures and suggestions for out-
door recreation appeal to the enthusiast for out-door sport and awaken a natural
desire from those who are indifferent. His plans call for inexpensive material.
The book is well illustrated.
ALICE V. JOYCE
TELLER, WARREN H. The Boys' Book of Canoeing and Sailing. Doran. Illustrated. $1.15.
(Supplied by the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America.)
Book Reviews ^l i
* THE BOOK This work contains much valuable information, for the novice as well
OF CAMPING" as the seasoned camper, and much of which is only learned by the
camper after years of experience. To one who essays to plunge
into the wilderness and isolate himself from civilization, living entirely on his own
resources, it will prove an ever ready and reliable companion. It covers the field
comprehensively. L. E. ANDERSON
VERRILL, A. HYATT. The Book of Camping. 1917. Illustrated. Alfred A. Knopf. $1.00.
(Supplied by the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America.)
"!N CANADA'S "In Canada's Wonderful Northland" is an entertaining
WONDERFUL NORTHLAND" account of an expedition whose purpose was the inves-
tigation of the mineral resources of Canada in the
vicinity of Hudson bay.
The authors, W. Tees Curran and H. A. Calkins, organized the expedition,
which, starting from Missinaibi station on the National Transcontinental Railway,
made its way down the Missinaibi river. Here formidable rapids were negotiated
and portages passed where bulky equipment had to be moved under great diffi-
culties.
At Moose Factory, the party divided, the authors with the assistance of an
engineman, making the trip up the bay in a motor boat while the others went in a
sailboat which had been chartered for the trip. Exceptional hardships in the shape
of weather conditions were encountered, which made the trip require eight months,
instead of the five planned on, and necessitated the use of snowshoes on the final
lap of the journey back to civilization.
The book is well supplied with maps, and an appendix gives, in well tabulated
form, desirable information in regard to harbors and camp sites.
ELLA P. ROBERTS
CURRAN. W. TEES and CALKINS, H. A. In Canada's Wonderful Northland. Illustrated. 1917.
Putnam. $z.yo.
(Supplied by the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America.)
"TOURING AFOOT" Twould more than pay a person going on a hiking trip, to
tuck away "TOURING AFOOT" in his pack — even though he
had read it through thoroughly beforehand, and had to leave out some other desired
article. For this little book contains facts, devices and hints that are invaluable
to the hiker, yet cannot be recalled exactly when most needed.
"TOURING AFOOT" is the result of practical experience in regard to clothing,
shoes, outfit, shelter and camp making, rations, first aid, and much needed advice
on the care of the feet. ALICE BANFIELD
FORDYCE, DR. C. P. Touring Afoot. Outing Publishing Co. 1917. $0.80.
(Supplied by the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America.)
"MOUNT RAINIER" The God-Mountain, Guardian of the Northwest, Watcher
over Puget Sound, topped only by Mt. Whitney in the United
States, theme of poetic Indian myth and legend, is a worthy subject of a well com-
piled volume edited by Professor Meany, President of The Mountaineers.
It is a fascinating account we read here of the history of the great mountain.
How Vancouver sailing up the coast in 1792 saw a round snowy mountain, which
he named after his friend Admiral Rainier; the first approach to the mountain in
212 Book Reviews
1833; Lieutenant Johnson's trip through Naches pass in 1841; Tacoma and the
Indian legend of Hamitchou; the attempted ascents, finally successful in 1870,
when General Stevens and P. B. Van Trump after eleven hours of unremitted toil
reached the summit and passed the night there, saved from perishing by the steam
jets in the crater.
The glaciers, the rocks, the flora, McClure's achievement and tragic death,
the official height of 14,408 feet, are all given in reprints from the original sources,
so that the reader lives again with the explorers stirring days and nights on the
snowy slopes.
It is well illustrated with portraits of the various men whose writings are in-
corporated in the volume, and there is a chapter which gives for the first time in
convenient form place names and elevations in the park.
ARTHUR K. TRENHOLME
MEANT, EDMOND S. Mount Rainier, A Record of Exploration. 1916. The Macmillan Company.
$2.50. Illustrated.
(Supplied by the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America.)
"CANADA, THE The title of this wonderful descriptive work of Canadian resources,
SPELL-BINDER" and its scenery, is well chosen. The author attempts to delineate
briefly the history of early Canada, to present to the reader a
view of Canada beginning from the earliest settlement by the fur trader down to
the present day. The book then sets forth the wonderful progress and development
of Canada, particularly in the last decade, including its immense potentialities.
The work is primarily, however, a compendium of the achievements of resourceful
men who have led in the opening of Canadian resources, and the making possible
the cultivation of thousands upon thousands of acres hitherto untouched. Many
of these lands are now abounding in the production of wheat and other cereals.
The author's theme, as it were, is a rather too exhaustive attempt on her part
to present an historical, sociological and mineralogical discussion of all that Canada
is and will be. The scenic beauty of the Yellowhead pass, which is traversed by
the Grand Trunk Pacific Railroad, the many beautiful national parks, such as
Jasper Park; and the beautiful snow-capped peaks of the Canadian Rockies, are all
admirably described. The book is embellished with prints of the larger cities and
points of scenic interest.
To the tourist and pleasure seeker, this work will prove a valuable addition to
his books of travel. HAROLD V. NEWLIN
WHITING, LILIAN. Canada, the Spell-Binder. 1917. Dutton. $2.50.
(Supplied by the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America.)
"YOUR NATIONAL PARKS" As its title might indicate, this volume contains com-
plete descriptions of our national parks. It may sur-
prise some readers to learn that there are sixteen of these national parks and three
national monuments. Much interesting historical matter is presented. One chap-
ter is given to the Hawaiian National Park and one to the Canadian National Parks.
In another chapter appears a biography of John Muir.
Mr. Mills' genuine love of nature finds most beautiful expression in the chapter
on "The Spirit of the Forest and the Trail." "Scenery," he says, "is our most valuable
and our noblest resource." "A campfire in the forest marks the most enchanting
place on life's highway wherein to have a lodging for the night."
Book Reviews ^ 1 3
He portrays for our enjoyment wild life in all its interesting forms, and brings
to us vivid pictures of our country's beauty spots. The book is well illustrated with
original photographs by the author and there are several maps reproduced by per-
mission of the National Park Service of the Department of the Interior. The
"Guide to the National Parks' by Lawrence F. Schmeckebier contains much detailed
information of value to tourists.
On the whole "YOUR NATIONAL PARKS" is a book of great value and one which
might well be placed in every American home. JEAN RICHARDSON
MILLS, ENOS A. Your National Parks. Illustrated. 1917. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. $1.50.
(Supplied by the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America.)
"A THOUSAND-MILE John Muir's account of a botanical excursion, which he
WALK TO THE GULF" made from Indiana to Florida a half century ago, is re-
produced from the original journal. This he wrote at
intervals during the journey southward across Kentucky and Tennessee, then
southward to Savannah and later across Florida from the Atlantic coast to the Gulf
of Mexico.
Autobiographically it bridges the period between "The Story of My Boyhood and
Youth" and "My First Summer in the Sierra."
By quotations from his journal the reader is made acquainted with details
concerning the different species of flowers and trees encountered, and by accounts of
the hospitality extended to him, is given a glimpse of the character of the inhabi-
tants of that region. The intimate details make a personal appeal and the reader
feels keenly, with the young naturalist, the dangers of the undertaking, which he
met so uncomplainingly.
The chapters may be enjoyed separately, each being in itself an interesting
account of some phase of his outing. Walking with John Muir from Indiana to
the Gulf, then sailing with him to Cuba, and finally enjoying a first glimpse of
California's wonders, through his eyes, is a pleasant exercise, worthy of anyone's time.
MINNIE R. HEATH.
MUIR, JOHN. A Thousand- Mile Walk to the Gulf. iqi6. Illustrated. Houghton, Mifflin
Co. $2.. 50.
(Supplied by the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America.)
"TROUT LORE" "A fel%gu\%shJn*nCe t0 dream'
He learns the beauties of a stream.
Out fishin';
And he can wash his soul in air
That isn't foul with selfish care.
An" relish plain and simple fare
Out fishin'."
The stanza quoted above is not from the book we have been called upon to
review, but it so nearly embodies the leading spirit running through the work that
we have been constrained to use it as our introduction. The book is by O. W.
Smith, angling editor of "Outdoor Life" and is entitled 'TROUT LORE." The work
has come out very recently and is published by the Frederick A. Stokes Company.
It is one of many books devoted to "ye gentle art" since the time that Izaak Walton
wrote his immortal treatise. One would have thought that nothing remained to be
said upon the subject, especially since Henry Van Dyke gave us his "Fisherman's
Luck." But the true angler, though perhaps not the "mere fisherman for fish" and
214 Book Reviews
especially not the "fish hog," will find throughout the text much that strikes a sympa-
thetic chord, as well as much instruction in the technique of the art. The whole
subject is covered — where, when and how to fish, the tackle and lures to be used,
the togs to be worn, and how to cook the trout — when caught.
With one statement of the author we will have to take issue. At least our
experience has been different from his. He says that the eastern brook trout
(Salvelinus fontinalis) "will never go into the air of his own free will." While
fishing Wahtum lake in October of last year (this lake has been stocked with the
fontinalis) we had the thrilling experience, not once but several times, of hooking
these beauties just at the start of the back cast, when the trout would leap clear of
the water to take the fly. With still another statement of the author we cannot
quite agree. He pronounces the eastern brook trout more delectable as a tickler
of the palate than the rainbow. But this, of course, is a matter of taste, and tastes
differ. Besides, as a true westerner, maybe we are prejudiced in favor of the native
denizens of our local streams, especially since the fontinalis, being a char and not a
true trout, is a near cousin to the Dolly Varden, which every western fisherman
knows is not comparable to the rainbow as a toothsome viand. The author admits
that for gameness the rainbow is without a peer.
In his concluding chapter the author inquires: "Why do we fish; wherein is
the attractivity of angling?" Henry Van Dyke's reply, which he quotes — "It is
the enchantment of uncertainty" — does not satisfy him fully. Then he proceeds
to give his own answer, in which we most heartily concur: "Every true angler is
an embryonic poet, feeling things which he cannot express, seeing things which he
cannot describe. He who fishes for fish is not an angler but a mere fisherman. He
who angles that he may become proficient with latest wrinkles of tackle is not an
angler but an experimentist. He who seeks to collect samples of everything in
tackle is not an angler but a faddist. The true angler partakes somewhat of the
natures of the foregoing, but, first of all, he is a lover of God's Out o' Doors."
JOHN A. LEE
SMITH, O. W. Trout Lore. Illustrated. Stokes. 1917. $2.00.
(Supplied by the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America.)
"GLACIER NATIONAL PARK — Portions of "GLACIER NATIONAL PARK — ITS TRAILS
ITS TRAILS AND TREASURES" AND TREASURES" smack very much of commer-
cialism. The authors have caught but a glimmer
of the joys and inspirations to be found in a visit to one of our greatest American
playgrounds. While this guide may be of great service to the so-called "sight-
seeing" tourist, it is of very small value to the mountaineer and outdoor enthusiast.
ROBERT E. HITCH
HOLTZ. MATHILDE EDITH and BEMIS. KATHERINE ISABEL. Glacier National Park — Its Trails
and Treasures. Illustrated. George H. Doran Company, iqiz. $1.00.
(Supplied by the Bureau of Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America.)
Membership
Address is Portland unless otherwise designated.
ABISHER, MARIE, 335 i4th St.
ACTON, HARRY W., 519 West izist St.,
New York.
ACTON, MRS. HARRY W., 519 West i2ist
St., New York.
ADAMS, DR. W. CLAUDE, 1010 E. 28th.
AITCHISON, CLYDE B., 504 Real Estate
Trust Bldg., Washington, D. C.
AKIN, DR. OTIS F., QIQ Corbett Bldg.
ALLEN, ARTHUR A., Portland Rowing
Club.
ALLEN, ENID C., 917 Andrus Bldg.,
Minneapolis, Minn.
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AMOS, DR. WM. F., 1016 Selling Bldg.
ANDERSEN, DR. FREDERICK, Merwyn
Bldg., Astoria, Ore.
ANDERSON, LEROY E., 213 Northwest-
ern Bank Bldg.
ANDERSON, Louis F., 364 Boyer Ave.,
Walla Walla, Wash.
APPLEGATE, ELMER I., Klamath Falls,
Oregon.
ASCHOFF, ADOLF, Marmot, Oregon.
ATKINSON, R. H., O.-W. R. & N. Co.
ATLAS, CHAS. E., Hurley-Mason Co.,
6iq Perkins Bldg., Tacoma, Wash.
AVERILL, MARTHA M., 1 1 44 Hawthorne
AVE.
AYER, ROY W., 680, Everett St.
ANDERSON, WM. H., 4464 Fremont Ave.,
Seattle, Wash.
BABB, HAROLD S., 578 Miller St.
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BAILEY, VERNON, 1834 Kalorama Ave.,
Washington, D. C.
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BALMANNO, JACK H., 5508 5oth Ave.,
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Eugene, Oregon.
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St., Brantford, Ontario.
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western Bank Bldg.
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CLARKE, D. D. .Water Bureau,City Hall .
COLBORN, MRS. Avis EDWARDS, 383
Summer St., Buffalo, N. Y.
COLLAMORE, MARY ERNA, E. 6th and
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2l6
Membership
COLLINS, W. G., 510 32nd Ave., S.(
Seattle, Wash.
*COLVILLE, PROF. F. V., Department of
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CONNELL, DR. E. DeWiTT, 628 Salmon.
CONWAY, T. RAYMOND 4705 (both St.,
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COOK, ARTHUR, 243 West Park St.
COURSEN, EDGAR E., 658 Lovejoy St.
COURSEN, GERALDINE R., 658 Lovejoy.
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A. C.
CREIGHTON, LOLA I., 920 E. Everett St.
CROUT, NELLE C., i326Tillamook.
CURRIER, GEO. H., Leona, Oregon.
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Seattle, Wash.
DALCOUR, NELLIE MAE, Karl Hotel.
DAVIDSON, PROF. GEO., 530 California
St., San Francisco, Calif.
DAVIDSON, R. J., 458 E. 49th St.
DAVIDSON, MRS. R. J., 458 E. 49th St.
DAY, BESSIE, 690 Olive St., Eugene,
Oregon.
*DILLER, PROF. Jos. S., U. S. Geologi-
cal Survey, Washington, D. C.
DILLINGER, ANNE C., 121 E. nth St.
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DUFFY, MARGARET C., 467 E. i2th St.
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Wash.
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ington St.
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merce Bldg.
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FELLOWS, LESTERO., 43 IQ 74th St., S. E.
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FISH, ELMA, 259 E. 46th St.
FITCH, LOUISE R., Tau Delta House,
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way, Winchester, Mass.
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HARRIS, CHARLOTTE M., 1195 E. 29th.
HARZA, L. F., Great Lakes Power Co.,
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Northampton, Mass.
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Ave., Bremerton, Wash.
HAWKINS, E. R., 655 Everett St.
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HEATH, MINNIE R., Wheeldon Annex,
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Denver, Colo.
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Membership
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MEREDITH, JOHND., 3 29 Washington St.
MEREDITH, GEORGE, 8>£ N. nth St.
MERRIAM, DR. C. HART, 1919 iqth St.,
N. W., Washington, D. C.
MERTEN, CHAS. J., 307 Davis St.
METCALF, ALICE K., 531 E. Couch St.
METCALF, EDNA, 531 E. Couch St.
MILES, S., 32 E. State St. Albion, N. Y.
MILLAIS, JAMES A., 415 loth St.
MILLAIS, MRS. ADA M., 415 loth St.
MILLER, BEULAH F., 629 E. Ash St.
MILLER, MAUDE ETHLYN, 767 1 5th St.,
E., Eugene, Oregon.
MILLER, JESSE, 726 E. 20th St.
MILLS, ENOS A., Longs Peak, EstesPark,
Colorado.
MONROE, HARRIETT E., 1431 E. Sal-
mon St.
MONTAG, JOHN W., 883 Commercial St.
MONTAGUE, JACK R., 1310 Yeon Bldg.
MONTAGUE, RICHARD W., 1310 Yeon
Bldg.
MONTGOMERY, ANDREW J., 374 E. 56th.
MOORE, EDITH, Knickerbocker Apts.
MORGAN, CHRISTINEN., Box 1 44, Palms,
Calif.
MORKILL, ALAN BROOKS, Canadian
Bank of Commerce, Vancouver, B. C.
218
Membership
MUNGER, A. R., 112 W. 28th St., Van-
couver, Wash.
MYERS EARL,Box355,Sunnyside,Wash.
NELSON, L. A., 410 Beck Bldg.
NEWELL, B. W., Ladd & Tilton Bank.
NEWTON, JOSEPHINE, 1350 Pine St.
Philadelphia, Pa.
NICHOLS, DR. HERBERT S., 801 Corbett
Bldg.
NICKELL, ANNA, 304 College St.
NlLSSON,MARTHAE.,32oE. I lthSt.,N.
NISSEN, IRENE, 969 E. 23rd St., N.
NORDEEN, EDITH, 361 Graham Ave.
NORMAN, OSCAR M., 499 E. qth St., N.
NUNAN, CINITA, 489 W. Park St.
**O'NEiLL, MARK, Worcester Bldg.
O'BRYAN, HARVEY, 602 McKay Bldg.
OGLESBY, ETTA M., Baron Apts., i4th
and Columbia Sts.
ORMANDY, HARRY M., 501 Weidler St.
ORMANDY, JAMES A., 501 Weidler St.
PARKER, ALFRED F., 374 E. 5ist St.
PARSONS, MRS. M. R., Mosswood Road,
University Hill, Berkeley, Calif.
PASTORIZA, HUGH, The Technology
Club of New York, 17 Gramercy
Park, New York City.
PATTULLO, A. S., 500 Concord Bldg.
PAUER, JOHN, 485 E. 2oth St., N.
PAYTON, PERLEE G., 3916 64th St. S. E.
PEASLEE, W. D., 125 E. nth St.
PENLAND, J. R., Box 345, Albany, Ore.
PENWELL, ESTHER, 95 E. 74th St.
PETERSON, ARTHURS., 780 WilliamsAve.
PETERSON, E. F., 780 Williams Ave.
PETERSON, LAURA H., 309 College St.
PHILLIPS, MABEL F., 335 i4th St.
PILKINGTON, THOS. J ., Sebastopol, Calif.
**PITTOCK, H. L., Imperial Heights.
PLATT, ARTHUR D., 16 Hilliard St.,
Cambridge, Mass.
PLUMMER, AGNES, 3rd and Madison Sts.
POWELL, MARY E., 1330 E. Taylor St.
PREVOST, FLORENCE, 689 Everett St.
REA, R. W., Ochoco Irrigation District,
Prineville, Oregon
REED, MRS. ROSE COURSEN, 208 Eilers
Bldg.
*REID, PROF. HARRY FIELDING, Johns
Hopkins University, Baltimore, Md.
REIST, LINN L., 600 Chamber of Com-
merce Bldg.
RHODES, EDITH G., 5005 43rd Ave., S.E.
RICE, EDWIN L., 1191 E. Yamhill St.
RICHARDSON, JEAN, 888 E. Washington
Street.
RICHARDSON, NETTIE G., 888 E. Wash-
ington St.
RIDDELL, GEO. X., 705 Alaska Bldg.,
Seattle, Wash.
RIDDELL, H. H., 415 E. iqth St.
RILEY, FRANK BRANCH, Chamber of
Commerce Bldg.
RILEY, MRS. FRANK BRANCH, 61 Lu-
cretia St.
RISELING, ROBT. F., i426Northwestern
Bank Bldg.
ROBERTS, ELLA PRISCILLA, 109 E. 48th
Street.
ROBINSON, DR. EARL C., 658 Morgan
Bldg.
ROGERS, HOMER A., Parkdale, Oregon.
*ROOSEVELT, THEODORE, Oyster Bay.
N. Y.
ROOT, BELLE OTT, 302 Wilcox Bldg.
ROSENKRANS, F. A., 28 1 E. MorrisonSt.
Ross, RHODA, 1516 E. Oak St.
Ross, WILLIS W., 4Q4 Yamhill St.
ROUTLEDGE, FRED A., I 59 E. 67 St., N.
ROYAL, OSMON, 207^ 4th St.
RUCKER, WILLARD, 68 1 E. Ash St.
SAMMONS, E. C., 69 E. i8th St.
SAMMONS, RETA, 69 E. 1 8th St.
SAMPSON, ALDON, Hotel Bon Air.,
Augusta, Ga.
SCHMIT, LUCIE, S. 667 Everett St.
SCHNEIDER, MARION, 260 Hamilton Ave.
SCHUYLER, JAMES T., 205 Broadway.
SCOTT, ELISE, 1 565 Knowles St.
SEARCY, ROBERT D., 616 Chamber of
Commerce Bldg.
SHARP, J. C, nooE. 1 7th St.'
SHARP, MRS. J. C., 1360 E. i7th St.
SHELTON, ALFRED C., 1 390 Emerald St.
Eugene, Oregon.
SHERMAN, MINET E., 229 E. 23rd §t.
SHIPLEY, J. W., Underwood Wash.
**SHOLES, C. H., Box 243.
SHOLES, MRS. C. H., 1530 Hawthorne
Avenue.
SIEBERTS, CONRAD J., 728XM>lwaukee
Street.
SIEBERTS, MRS. C. J ., 7^-W Milwaukee
Street.
SILL, J. G., 539 Vancouver Ave.
Membership
219
SILVER, ELSIE M., 100 6th St.
SMEDLEY, GEORGIAN E., 261 E. i6th St.
SMITH, KAN, Ketchikan, Alaska.
SMITH, LEOTTA, Palatine Hill, Oswego,
Oregon.
SMITH, PROF. WARREN D., 941 E. iqth
St. Eugene, Oregon.
SMITH, W. E., 589 E. mh St., N.
SNEAD, J. L. S., 572 E. Broadway.
SPAETH, DR. J . DUNCAN, Princeton, N. J .
SPURCK, NELL I., Campbell Hotel.
STARKWEATHER, H. G., R. R. No. i
Milwaukie, Oregon.
STARR, NELLIE S., Whitney Apts.
STEARNS, LULU, 553 Belmont St.
STONE, DR. W. E., Purdue University,
Lafayette, Indiana.
STONE, MRS. W. E., 146 N. Grant St.,
Lafayette, Indiana.
STUDER, GEO. A., 1114 Williams Ave.
SMiTH,MARYGENE,Campbell-HillHotei
STURGES, DANIELA R., 648 Gerald Ave.
TAYLOR, VERA E., 604 Spalding Bldg.
TENNESON, ALICE M., 5 E. jist St.
THATCHER, GUY W., 302 Sacramento St.
THORINGTON, J. MONROE, 2031 Chest-
nut St., Philadelphia, Pa.
THORNE, H. J., 452 E. loth St., N.
THURSTON, BLANCHE M., 1384 E. Lin-
coln St.
TINDOLPH, A. G., 621 Empire Bldg.
Boise, Idaho.
TREICHEL, GERTRUDE, 535 Mall St.
TREICHEL, Chester H., 501 Y. M. C. A.
Bldg., San Diego, Calif.
TRENHOLME, ARTHUR K., 333 E. 44th St.
UPSHAW, F. B., 401 Concord Bldg.
VAN BEBBER, L., 60 1 Fenton Bldg.
VAN ZANDT, DEAN, 849 Front St.
VEAZIE, A. L., 695 Hoyt St.
VERNON, HOWARD W., 22 Reade St.,
New York City.
VESSEY, ETHYLE, 1207 W. i8th St.,
Vancouver, Wash.
VIAL, LOUISE ONA, 580 E. Main St.
WALDORF, Louis W., Western, Neb.
WALTER, WILLIAM S., 55 N. 2ist St.
WARNER, CHAS. E., 248 Nartilla St.
WEER, J. H., P. O. Box 1563, Tacoma,
Wash.
WEICHELT, O. H., 6015 Hillegon Ave.,
Oakland, Calif.
WEISTER, G. M., 653 E. i5th St., N.
WENNER, B. F., 675 Glisan St.
WHITE,' WM. JR., 1302 Commonwealth
Trust Bldg., Philadelphia Pa.
WILBURN, VESTA, Richmond Paper Co.
Seattle, Wash.
WILDER, GEO. W., 226 i4th St.
WILLARD, CLARA, 112 W. loth St.,
Vancouver, Wash.
WILLIAMS, A. BOYD, 54 King St., N.
WILLIAMS, MRS. A. BOYD, 54KingSt.,N.
WILLIAMS, GEO. M., 713 F St., Cen-
tralia, Wash.
**WILLIAMS, JOHN H., 2671 Filbert St.,
San Francisco, Calif.
WILSON, A., 1324 Cascade St., Hood
River, Oregon.
WILSON, CHAS. W., Bellevue, Idaho.
WILSON, RONALD M., United States
Geological Survey, King City, Calif.
WINTER, C. L., 240 E. 32nd St.
WOLBERS, HARRY L., 577 Kirby St.
WOODWORTH, C. B., Ladd&TiltonBank.
WYNN, Dr. FRANK B., 421 Hume-Man-
sur Bldg., Indianapolis, Indiana.
YORAN, W. C., 912 Lawrence St., Eu-
gene, Oregon.
YOUMANS, W. J., 687 E. qth St.
YOUMANS, MRS. W. J., 687 E. qth St.
YOUNG, BEATRICE, 652 E. 73rd St., N.
ZIEGLER, MAE, 8q Mason St.
Active members
*Honorary members
**Life members
356
6
4
TOTAL
366
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MAZAMA
A Record of Mountaineering
in the Pacific Northwest
VOLUME V
Prict 50c. Postpaid
NUMBER 2
We also have on hand a supply
of 1907, 1913, 1914, 1915 and 1916 issues
Prices on Application
Send orders and inquiries to
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330 Northwestern Bank Bidding
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New Edition Pocket Size Leather. ... $3 . 50
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Plan to spend next
summer's vacation
inJGLACIER
fcfclNATIONAL J
PARK
for a horseback tour of America's Va-
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has wide, safe trails through some of the
most romantic scenes on the continent.
Visit the picturesque passes of "the roof
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what your Eastern destination.
J^ C. E. STONE M. J. COSTELLO _C.iW.[MELDRUM 1
g.% Pass. Traffic Mgr. Asst. Traffic Mgr. Asst.Gen. PassiAgT.
Q* 1X*..1 "\f;«« O^ iil^ TTT_ t ^~- rx ..-. •*
St. Paul, Minn. Seattle, Wash.
^Seattle, Wash..
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City Pass. ATkt.Agt.
348 Washington St.
Portland, Ore.
l&^s€Z^
<^^/^^^^^^
V^^&rt^^st^ztfaK^e/
*^X*^V£^^2^
te&^wJJ^
PORTLAND
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PRINTED BY JAMES. KERNS & ABBOTT Co., PORTLAND
VOLUME V
DECEMBER, 1918
NUMBER 3
MAZAMA
A Record of Mountaineering
in the Pacific Northwest
NESIKA KLATAWA SAHALE
Published by THE MAZAMAS
213 NORTHWESTERN BANK BUILDING
PORTLAND, OREGON, U. S. A.
Fifty Cents
Mazama Organization for the Year 1918-1919
OFFICERS
EDGAR E. COURSEN (658 Lovejoy St.) President
MISS HARRIET E. MONROE (1431 E. Salmon St.) Vice-President
MRS. BEULAH MILLER CARL (629 E. Ash St.) ....Corresponding-Secretary
MISS JEAN RICHARDSON (131 E. Nineteenth St.) Recording-Secretary
MISS MARTHA E. NILSSON (320 E. Eleventh St., N.) ....Financial Secretary
MISS LOLA I. CREIGHTON (920 E. Everett St.) Historian
MISS MARION SCHNEIDER (260 Hamilton Ave.) Treasurer
ROY W. AYER (689 Everett St.) Chairman Outing Committee
JOHN A. LEE (Multnomah Club) Chairman Local Walks Committee
COMMITTEES
OUTING COMMITTEE— Roy W. Ayer, Chairman; Charles J. Merten, Miss
Martha E. Nils son.
LOCAL WALKS COMMITTEE— John A. Lee, Chairman; W. P. Hardesty,
Vice Chairman; E. H. Dowling, Miss Minna Backus, Guy W.
Thatcher, Miss Olga Hallinghy.
HOUSE COMMITTEE — Mrs. Laura McDonald, Chairman; Miss Amy John-
ston, Miss Althea Lee, W. A. Gilmour, A. A. Bailey, Jr.
ENTERTAINMENT COMMITTEE— Jan Kool, Chairman; Miss Katherine
Schneider, Miss Ethel Loucks, E. F. Peterson, Miss Anna Bowie.
PUBLICATION COMMITTEE— G. W. Wilder, Chairman; Miss Laura Peter-
son, Miss Lola I. Creighton.
EDUCATIONAL COMMITTEE— L. A. Nelson, Chairman; Miss Agnes Plum-
mer, M. W. Gorman, Mrs. C. N. Morgan, R. J. Davidson.
LIBRARY COMMITTEE— Miss Lola I. Creighton, Chairman; Miss Florence
J. McNeil, L. E. Anderson, Miss Anna Bullivant, Mrs. Beulah
Miller Carl.
MEMBERSHIP PROMOTION COMMITTEE— W. P. Hardesty, Chairman;
Miss Mary Gene Smith, Frank I. Jones.
MEMBERSHIP COMMITTEE— Roy W. Ayer, Chairman; Miss Marion
Schneider, Miss Lola I. Creighton.
AUDITING COMMITTEE— Robert F. Riseling, Chairman; Miss Anne C.
Dillinger, L. Van Bebber.
ANEROID LAKE
Photo by Boychuk
MAZAMA
A Record of Mountaineering
in the Pacific Northwest
VOLUME V
Price 50c, Postpaid
NUMBER 3
We also have on hand a supply
of 1907, 1913, 1914, 1915? 1916 and 1917 issues
Prices on Application
Send orders and inquiries to the
Corresponding Secretary
213 Northwestern Bank Building
Portland, Oregon
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mental fibre.
Sturdiness implies self-resped, dependence on one's own
efforts — in short, all that goes to make up Thrift.
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will welcome your savings or ckecking account.
LADD & TILTON BANK
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MAZAMA
A RECORD OF MOUNTAINEERING IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
Publication Committee
Lola Creighton G. W. WILDER, Editor Laura Peterson
VOLUME V PORTLAND, OREGON, DECEMBER, 1918 NUMBER 3
Contents
Page
THE WALLOWA OUTING, 1918 227
Lola Creighton
THE WALLOWA MOUNTAINS —
GEOLOGY AND ECONOMIC GEOGRAPHY 233
Warren DuPre Smith
ABORIGINAL NOMENCLATURE 251
Henry Sicade
THE 1918 MAZAMA OUTING TO MT. HOOD 255
A. Boyd Williams
JAUNT OF THE FOUR EX-PRESIDENTS 257
R. L. Glisan
THE TOTAL ECLIPSE OF THE SUN 265
Elaine Coles
ADDRESS OF THE RETIRING PRESIDENT 273
REPORT OF LOCAL WALKS COMMITTEE . 275
A. Boyd Williams
LOCAL WALKS COMMITTEE FINANCIAL REPORT .... 276
REPORT OF CERTIFIED PUBLIC ACCOUNTANT 277
ROLL OF HONOR 279
BOOK REVIEWS 283
MEMBERSHIP . .... 292
MAZAMA
VOLUME V DECEMBER, 1918 NUMBER 3
The Wallowa Outing, 1918
LOLA CREIGHTON
On Saturday evening, July 19, a party of twenty-two left
the Union Station, Portland, on the O. W. R. & N. train for the
Mazama outing in the Wallowa Mountains. As all previous
annual outings have been confined to the well-watered western
portions of the Pacific states, this trip into the National Forest
Reserve of the extreme northeastern part of Oregon introduced
a new field for Mazama outings.
Sunday morning breakfast was eaten in La Grande, and
the luggage was transferred to a branch line train for Joseph.
This train route follows first the Grande Ronde River to the
northeast and then turning at the junction of the Wallowa
River follows it to the southwest into the beautiful Wallowa
Valley.
Those of the party who had been somewhat discouraged of
a pleasant trip the evening before, as each turn of the swiftly
pounding wheels took the train farther into what appeared a
tractless waste of sagebrush and sand, were reassured when
near Enterprise, for first real view of the mountains impressed
the eye with their sheer height and massiveness, as they rise
abruptly from the comparatively level floor of the valley. The
many crags and peaks, shelving patches of snow, the bright blue
sky, and warm sunshine, caused many heads to be withdrawn
from windows with expressions of surprise and delight and a
general feeling of satisfaction that here indeed was a region
worthy of a prolonged visit.
When the party climbed down from the hot, dusty coach, in
Joseph, members of the Joseph Commercial Club were immedi-
ately introduced. These hospitable folks took the party to lunch
at the restaurant and then for the six mile automobile ride to
permanent camp, situated one and one-half miles above Wallowa
Lake, on the west fork of the Wallowa River. Very unusual is
228 The Wallowa Outing, 1918
it to reach a permanent camp without a hike of many miles over
a mountain trail. The ride along the lake and through the woods
seemed so short that no one could believe that the white tent,
in front of which the machines halted, could really be the abode
of the commissary department. However, the sight of Mr.
Charles J. Merten, the member of the outing committee who had
arrived two days before, to establish camp, greeting all the new-
comers, put an end to all debates on the question.
Soon the many attractions of this camp, at an elevation of
4500 feet, were appreciated. It was situated at the junction of
many streams, up which trails led into the regions to be explored.
Yet it was such a short distance from Joseph that mail and gro-
ceries were daily brought in by auto delivery. The cook tent
was pitched upon the banks of the streams which furnished ex-
cellent water for all camp purposes and for cold showers for
dusty hikers. Enthusiastic fishermen caught trout within a
stone's throw of the camp frying pan. A five minute's walk up
the trail led to a view of the beautiful Wallowa Falls. Tall pines
furnished wood for fires and welcome shade for warm after-
noons. Willow and spirca bushes formed the lesser growth. The
table, neatly constructed of level boards, was far too stylish for
a Mazama camp. Delightful it was to sit with elbows resting
on it and watch the rushing waters of the streams or the sun-
light on the crags which towered upward on every hand. And,
best of all, there were no mosquitos — the bane of all lake or
meadow camps — to mar the enjoyment of camp life.
The afternoon and next day were spent in the near vicinity
of camp — establishing comfortable individual camps, hanging
the flag and banner of Camp Roy Ayer, hiking, fishing and
swimming in Wallowa Lake.
The following day, Tuesday, camp was early astir and by
seven o'clock a party of nineteen, under the leadership of Mr.
Robert E. Hitch, were off on the trail for Aneroid Lake. It
proved to be a veritable gem of blue waters, rimmed in on three
sides by sheer mountain walls. Fishing, swimming and rowing
were enjoyed before lunch was eaten. Seven of the more stren-
uous members, during the afternoon, climbed the highest points
to be seen from the lake — Petes Peak and Aneroid Point. The
others explored the many points of interest along the lake shore.
On Wednesday Mr. E. F. Peterson and Charles J. Merten
started on a scouting trip to Lake Basin to fish and map out the
The Wallowa Outing, 1918 229
most feasible route for the official climb to the summit of Eagle
Cap, elevation 9,860 feet.
Seventeen were members of the party that at 10 :45 Thurs-
day morning reviewed Ice Lake after five hours of steady
climbing.
The trail, after crossing the west fork about four miles
above camp, leads through groves and meadows carpeted with
beautiful flowers, and then up for a thousand feet or more by
a succession of wonderful waterfalls which had been sighted from
the valley trail. The lake of ice cold water is far larger than the
first view indicates as it stretches in horseshoe shape beyond a
projecting point of rocks. It is walled in on the south by a gray
weathered mountain which joins Marble Mountain on the west-
ward side. Had time permitted an attempt would have been
made to climb Marble Mountain, as it appeared to present few
difficulties. To the west and north stretches the long ridge of
a barren brown mountain. A party, under the leadership of
Mr. W. H. Harris, supervisor of the Wallowa National Forest,
climbed this ridge during the afternoon, and by following it
and then dropping down to Big Creek they arrived at camp but
shortly after the main party. During the remaining days in
camp many discussions were held over the rival beauties of Ane-
roid Lake and Ice Lake. Many expressed that these two lakes,
with their surrounding peaks, would easily repay any outing trip.
Friday evening the camp fire session had the unusual pleas-
ure of celebrating a Mazama birthday in camp. Mr. Adolf
Aschoff, who was one of the party that organized the club on the
summit of Mt. Hood, on July 19, 1894, gave a very interesting
account of that eventful day in Mazama history. The four ex-
presidents, Messrs. C. H. Sholes, R. L. Glisan, John A. Lee, and
Jerry Bronaugh were also speakers of the evening. After
speeches and songs, a large birthday cake, lighted by twenty-four
candles, was carried into the bright light of the campfire. This
cake was so artistically decorated and proved of such delicious
flavor that Chef Thompson received many rounds of praise for it.
Farewell was said next morning to the four ex-presidents,
who resumed their automobile trip. Their fish stories, accounts
of daily trips, and patriotic speeches had been enjoyed at the
camp fires.
The early morning sunshine of the following day found
twenty-one hikers swinging along the trail in Hurricane Canyon.
230 The Wallowa Outing, 1918
They were indeed fortunate for machines furnished by the people
of Joseph had taken them to the beginning of the trail where the
commissary and bedding was safely stowed on three pack horses.
The open glade soon disclosed a view of Eagle Cap. Marble
Mountain served as a gauge of distance traveled. A delightful day
was spent as each hour brought forth some new wonder. Cas-
cades on the precipitous canyon wall, the rock formations, the
beautiful stretches of forests, and the clear, winding streams
and bright flowers of the upland meadows made this a paradise
for those carrying cameras.
Departing from this easy valley trail a steep climb over an
eastward ridge brought the hikers, after a thirteen mile trip, to
bivouac camp, near Mirror Lake, with the summit of Eagle Cap
so near at hand that after an excellent supper many expressed
the wish to climb it by moonlight. With the trees and surround-
ing mountains clearly reflected in the many beautiful lakes which
abound in this basin, it was hard to be forced to retire to sleeping
bags for the necessary rest before the next day's long trip.
Next morning, July 21, under the leadership of Charles J.
Merten, every member on this, the official climb of the outing,
reached the summit of Eagle Cap at 8 :15, after a two hour's easy
climb, following the northwest ridge. The extent of these moun-
tains was realized by the view from the top. It disclosed ridge
after ridge in every direction, with more than eighteen lakes
showing as blue splotches in the valleys. Thoughts went to the
Mazama boys in service, with the wish that they were there to
enjoy and explore this wonderful country — a new peak, or ridge,
or valley could be chosen for each day, and at the end of two
weeks much would still remain unseen. Names were signed in
the Mazama book and great monument of rocks built above the
original small pile. Turquoise Lake held the interest of many
and had the party but known the route to camp as planned by
the packer, many miles could have been cut from the morning's
trip by going from the top to the lake. Great fun was derived
on the journey back to bivouac camp by sliding down the snow-
fields which lie on the northern steep slope of Eagle Cap. A
circular detour was made. After a climb over a ridge that
seemed the height of Eagle Cap to the tired and hungry hikers,
lunch was served at 1:45 on the stream, but a short distance
from its source in Turquoise Lake. Everyone was sorry that
The Wallowa Outing, 1918 231
the afternoon's trip had to be taken so hurriedly as it led through
one of the most interesting valleys. The lake near the prospec-
tor's cabin was a beautiful sheet of water. A hillslope near the
West Fork crossing deserves special mention for its great variety
of flowers that are indigenous to this region. A columbine, of a
yellow shade, attracted much attention. Some of the faster walk-
ers reached camp by 6:30. The entire walk, including the climb,
of Eagle Cap, was about twenty-two miles.
Tuesday the camp heartily welcomed the arrival of Dr. W.
D. Smith, and in the afternoon he led a party to the top of the
eastern part of the long, treeless, old moraine ridge, which so
completely banks in the waters of Wallowa Lake. The bright
afternoon sunshine brightened the golden fields of grain on the
many farms that stretch in every direction from this view point.
During the remainder of the stay scarcely a day passed that
some new trip was not taken, the more strenuous hikers daily
added some new canyon, valley, ridge, or peak to their list. A
special trip was made to Ice Lake that Dr. W. D. Smith might
study the geology of that region, and on Thursday he and Mr.
Merten climbed Eagle Cap from the Turquoise Lake side. Fog
obscured distant views on both trips.
This outing included all the usual jolly good times of camp
life. No one missed the camp fire sessions where the Ayergron-
ian, the daily newspaper, was read; fish stories told; plays
staged ; songs sung, poems recited and music played to the great
enjoyment of the tired but happy hikers. The afternoon teas
were well attended, especially the one at which ice cream, a rare
dish in a mountain camp, was served. President Roy W. Ayer
and everyone in camp lined up on the evening of July 24, to give
a hearty welcome to about forty of the people of Joseph to whom
dinner was served in camp style. Later they took part in the
camp fire session and their speeches urged that the Mazamas
should come soon for another outing in the Wallowa Mountains.
On every mountain camp some rain must fall, and this was
no exception to the rule. Friday night's rain seemed sent to
test the sleeping bags of all those who dared sleep out with no
protecting tent for shelter and next morning saw a number hold-
ing blankets before a big fire. Tea, cards and the stuffing of
dunnage bags helped to pass the rainy afternoon hours.
232 The Wallowa Outing, 1918
Next morning the last of the dunnage was packed, the last
hurried visit made to the falls ; and farewell said to all the favor-
ite spots about camp. At seven o'clock automobiles again arrived
in camp and the entire party was taken for a ride, until noon,
through the beautiful Wallowa Valley. All were amazed at the
crops which that soil will produce. No words can give any idea
of the hospitality of the people of Joseph to those who have never
visited their valley. Their generosity to the outing party cul-
minated in a most delicious banquet. Speeches, songs and mus-
ical selections made the hour until train time seem very short.
Portland was reached at one o'clock of the following after-
noon. So was ended a most successful outing, with every mem-
ber greatly strengthened for more effective service during the
coming year.
THOSE WHO CLIMBED EAGLE CAP ON THE MAZAMA
OUTING OF 1918
ASCHOFF, ADOLF MERTEN, CHARLES J.
AYER, ROY W. MILLER, JESSIE
AYER, LEROY, JR. MORGAN, MRS. C. N.
BOYCHUK, WALTER NILSSON, MARTHA E.
CREIGHTON, LOLA PENDLETON, CECIL
GRIFFIN, MARGARET A. PENWELL, ESTHER
HALLINGBY, OLGA PETERSON, E. F.
HITCH, ROBERT E. PRENBYS, R. P.
KERR, DR. D. F. SMITH, DR. WARREN D.
KNAPP, MARY L. TAYLOR, VERA
KOOL, JAN TAYLOR, ZELLA
KRESS, CHARLOTTE YOUNG, CRISSIE
LAWSON, AGNES G.
The Wallowa Mountains — Geology and
Economic Geography
By WARREN Du PRE SMITH
Just as "All Gaul is divided into three parts," so they say
Oregon is divided into three parts; Western Oregon, Eastern
Oregon and Wallowa County. Whoever "they" are, they are
right, for certainly Wallowa County comprising chiefly moun-
tain country, is unlike anything else the writer has seen in
Oregon.
Before launching into the pleasant task of describing this
wonderful, and we fear to most Oregonians, unknown country,
the writer should tell how he came to know it. Though he had
read some geological notes relative to it from one or two fellow
geologists and had listened to an enthusiastic student paint the
glories of his native haunts, he had little conception of it until
that progressive body, the Mazamas, held their annual outing
in that region, July, 1918, and he was a privileged member of
their camp.
We almost wish we could forget for the moment the vocab-
ulary of geology and be permitted to draw upon the words of
Wordsworth, or that we had the power of description of a Tyn-
dall, or a Winchell, for truly the region we are about to tell you
of merits the noblest words ever coined and the finest phrases
in our language. As we stood more than once on the top of some
natural minaret in the flush of triumph, we wished we might,
in the words of Kipling, "take hold of the wings of the morning
and flop around the earth 'till we're dead," but this is permitted
to the poet, the geologist must keep to the earth and the things
thereof.
To the following persons we would like to make especial
acknowledgment for assistance in the acquiring of data for
this article : Mr. A. Bodmer, Manager McCully Mercantile Co.,
Joseph, Oregon, who furnished transportation, samples of min-
eral and much information ; Mr. H. W. Harris, Forest Supervisor
of Wallowa National Forest, for the use of the excellent topo-
graphic folio of this Reserve; Messrs. Richardson and Reade,
Engineers of the Baker Mines, Cornucopia ; Waldemar Lindgren,
234 The Wallowa Mountains
whose articles on the Blue Mountains of Oregon, published years
ago, while it does not include our particular territory, yet is
invaluable to one making a geological study of this portion of
the state ; R. M. Swartley, formerly Mining Engineer of the State
Bureau of Mines and Geology, who has published some notes on
the geology of this region and who has perhaps made the only
detailed examination of the mines of this district.
GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION
Situated in the extreme northwestern corner of the state,
near the junction of the States of Washington, Oregon and Idaho,
bordered on the one side by the famous Snake River, the coun-
try we are delineating lies in the heart of the great "Inland
Empire," with fair transportation it is in contact with such im-
portant cities as Walla Walla, Lewiston, Baker City and Boise,
it is more than a county of Oregon, it is part of a more cosmopol-
itan region. This is perhaps the most striking characteristic
about Wallowa County, it belongs politically to one state, yet
geographically, commercially, socially and in every other respect
it is not bounded by that state.
Second, it is ideally replete with mountains, plains, rivers,
lakes and forest. Every variety of climate, of scenery, of soil
and resources can be found in it. This fact is of paramount im-
portance. The beneficial effect upon the prosperity, wealth and
mentality of its citizens cannot be gainsaid. The region, though
old geologically, is but just emerged from the frontier stage and
so has not had time to acquire much history or tradition, and
now that the childhood of the race has gone never to return, it
has no chance to become like Switzerland, though the natural set-
ting is there.
Although the Wallowa County is far from the sea, some of
its area is rolling lava desert, which in some of its aspects and
moods, is not unlike the sea. The motor car has supplanted the
old prairie schooner which aforetime rocked and plunged from
one lava hummock to another, and prosperous cities are located
where once old camp fires burned.
One thing which is very confusing to the traveler is the way
you come into Wallowa, by the back door as it were. You go
north-by-east, and then east-by-south, because the Wallowa Range
extends from west to east and the one railroad which taps this
The Wallowa Mountains 235
region must make an end run, so to speak, up the Grande Ronde,
and thence along the Wallowa to Joseph at the lower end of
Wallowa Lake.
TOPOGRAPHY
The general topographical scheme comprises an extensive
undulating plan or rather low plateau of basalt sloping up to an
almost precipitous wall of mountains, so abrupt as to be ex-
plained in one way only, namely, the fault scarp, These moun-
tains are variously known as the Wallowas, The Eagle Creek
Mountains or the Powder River Mountains.
This front mountain wall varies from two to four or five
thousand feet high, and is cut through in several places by deep
canyons by way of which foaming torrents hurdle their way as
if glad to be released from their "high mountain cradles" and
join the older and more sedate Wallowa, whose course through
the lava fields is denoted by a great velvet band thrown carelessly
out across the landscape. And back of this rock rampart of
marble and porphyry rise other rocky ranks with here and there
taller sun-kissed and cloud capped leaders, and one among all
supreme, "Old Eagle Cap."
Right in the largest of the openings through the range where
it seems a giant axe wielded by some god has cleaved asunder the
mass of stone is one of Oregon's and Wallowa's chief est jewels,
Lake Wallowa. Hemmed in, in part by the canon walls, in part
by huge moraines extending far beyond the mountain portal, it
lies there, a beautiful sight, making a natural and ideal reservoir
of water for the use of man, beast and vegetation.
The principal streams debouching from these mountains are
the Wallowa and the Minam, on the north side, and on the south
side Pine and Eagle Creeks ; on the west side, Catherine Creek,
and on the east the Imnaha. None of these is navigable, but
they are all a source of power and some, except those which flow
out of the mining districts, are stocked with fish.
Joseph, the railroad terminus and an enterprising town of
about 1,000 people, at the gateway of the mountains, is 4100 feet
in elevation. The Wallowa Valley bottom is anywhere from 2,500
to 3,700 feet and the summits of the passes across the ranges are
all close to 8,000 feet. The mountains are serrated, rugged, al-
most bare of their timber or snow in summer. One dwindling
236 The Wallowa Mountains
glacier still clings to the slopes between Sentinel Peak and Eagle
Cap, a pitiful remnant of its former self.
To one who has visited Glacier National Park, up in the cor-
ner of Montana, a striking resemblance between the two regions
will be at once apparent. The scenery of the Wallowa is just as
fine, though there is not as much of it.
CLIMATE AND VEGETATION
To the dweller in Western Oregon the land of rain and
mist, of vegetation almost tropical in its rankness, of color tones
dominantly green and cobalt and purple, the climate, atmosphere
and vegetation of this region offer almost startling and yet not
displeasing contrast. Perhaps the best way to show this is by
tabular arrangement as follows :
WESTERN OREGON WALLOWA
Vegetation — Large trees — Vegetation — Small trees —
firs, dense underbrush. pines and tamaracks, little or
Rainfall — Abundant to ex- no underbrush,
cess, 40-100 inches, distributed Rainfall — Light precipita-
over many months. Slow dis- tion, 10-25 inches, but concen-
charge. Humid. trated in short periods, thunder
Clouds — Excessive cloudi- showers, rapid run-off. Dry.
ness. Clouds — Excessive sunlight.
Temperature — Moderate, 10 Temperature — Extremes,
to 100 degrees F. —17 to 110 degrees F.
Climate — Marine. Climate — Continental.
FAUNA AND FLORA
Though it is not within my province to discuss at any length
in this article these two subjects, for completeness and in order
to show the interdependence of the various branches of scientific
knowledge of any region, some allusion must be made to them
here. Geographical position, physiography and geology, as all
know, have a large share in the distribution, grouping and wel-
fare of plants and animals.
The lighter rainfall, the steepness of the mountain slopes,
the greater amount and force of the winds, the light soil covering
all have influenced the character of the vegetation. The lack of
undergrowth has, of course, been one of, if not the chief cause,
for the scarcity of animals. It is said that mountain sheep are
The Wallowa Mountains 237
still occasionally to be seen on some of the more inaccessible
ridges. Undoubtedly this region was once well stocked with
game of the kind now to be found in the wilder portions of the
Rocky Mountains and formerly, too, there must have been a
plentiful supply of birds, but in ten days or more roaming
through the woods and over the rocks of Wallowa, only one or
two blue birds were seen, and no beast, save domesticated ani-
mals from the lowlands. Undoubtedly a field zoologist working
at night or with traps would see things which the layman would
pass unnoticed.
Not so with plants, for in this domain even the untrained
can note, in passing, their profusion and the great contrast to
those in the coastal area. On the north side of the Wallowas one
finds among the trees mainly yellow pine, tamaracks and lodge
pole pine in much denser stands than on the south side. On the
divides there is scarcely any timber at all, or if any, a sort of
stunted pine.
The flowers of the lowland reaches everyone knows, but
comparatively few know the rich carpets of flowers on the up-
land meadows. Their number and variety are legion. Of course,
we know the names of a few of these, but to know their beauty
is still better and so we shall leave the more scientific discussion
of them to some one better informed.
POPULATION
The census of 1910 shows that there were 7,863 people in
this county ; of these 502 only were foreign born. This fact alone
may argue much in favor of the enterprise of this region. Re-
gions of variable and extreme temperature, with storms, plenty
of sunlight, high barometer and moderate rainfall, coupled with
varied topography are energy producers. Wallowa County has
all of these. No, I shall not be too positive about the matter of
the atmospheric pressure, there being insufficient data on this
point.
GENERAL GEOLOGY
Just as the medical student must spend long hours in the
dissecting room, so must the student who would know the earth,
its component parts and how the various parts function, go into
Nature's great laboratory where old Earth has been rent asunder,
disembowelled as it were. The story of the earth cannot be de-
ciphered from a mere examination of its undisturbed surface.
238 The Wallowa Mountains
The Wallowa Mountains offer a splendid opportunity to make
these necessary studies. Here in this gaping canyon we see a
clean cut incision through the tissue of the outer integument of
our old world; in another place a terrible, hardy healed-over
wound where a side of the mountain has fallen away ; over yon-
der an old scar where some ancient glacier scratched and gouged
its way across its face, and there in the center of the range some
convulsion has torn open its side, bringing the very entrails out
into the light of day.
Now only the quieter process of erosion and weathering are
going on, but once in the morning of Time, there was heaving
and grinding, writhing and slipping, twisting and breaking, as
a result of tremendous surging from within. And now we come
in the noon-time and classify and theorize. What then do we
find? First let us list all the different kinds of formations. Be-
ginning with the oldest, perhaps, there are some slates and
quartzites with impressions of some primitive clams, called for
want of better names, Halobias, and Daonellas, which indicate
that comparatively remote time in the world's history known as
the Triassic Period. Mingled with these are some lenses of lime-
stone now changed to marble containing almost indeterminable
corals. These certainly tell us of warm tropical seas and strange
little industrious animals working away to construct fantastic
dwelling places for themselves beneath the surface of the sea.
We find them now thrust up and far away from their ancient
home, their delicate cups rudely torn and crushed by the ruth-
less ice stream which ground over them.
If we look around pretty carefully we might find some of
the cause of the disturbance. There ! you are looking right at it,
though you don't realize that it did all the mischief, miles and
miles of gleaming white granite, or granodiorite, to be more
exact. This formation is part of the great Post-Jurassic bathy-
lith which is found extensively all the way from Alaska down
into California, but is not very evident in Western Oregon. You
will find it there, too, but away back in some of the canyons
where erosion has removed the ever present basalt cover. This
rock in the Cornucopia district is, according to Lindgren, a more
acid type than the California rock, and has more quartz in it.
On the north and south flanks of this perhaps younger, per-
haps older (we are uncertain which) lies an old, (I say old here
The Wallowa Mountains
239
i m .
n
I
a- i
i i i
because there is a still younger
one) which from its field appear-
ance and for want of a more ex-
act name, we call a greenstone.
This is an extremely hard, dense
rock, which emits a ringing
sound when struck sharply with
the hammer. In places! it is
characterized by great white fel-
spars an inch or more in length
in a green matrix, like plums in
a pudding. Overlying the whole
mass is a series of brownish lay-
ers of more porous lava resting
more or less horizontally on the
upturned members of this series.
This we at once recognized as
the well known Columbia lava
of the Cascades which also
spreads out over the lower pla-
teau regions of Eastern Oregon.
Cutting all the older rocks and
leading up into these overlying
lava beds are great, wide (20-
100 feet) sinuous dikes of basalt
by way of which the once molten
rocks reached the top from the
hot viscous reservoir of magma
below the "roots of the moun-
tains." Still later than these,
though not always above, we
find the products of degrada-
tion, moraines and talus from
glacier, river and landslide.
FIG. I. (Text Figure.)
In Fig. I is presented a
generalized scheme of the forma-
tions as one finds them in
crossing the range.
There are rocks in this region
at least as old as the Triassic
240 The Wallowa Mountains
and probably much older, perhaps Archean, though the writer
doubts this very much. Not a scrap of evidence in this part of
the Blue Mountains has been seen to support this assumption.
It should be distinctly borne in mind that the writer has not seen
all this region nor has he spent very much time in it. There are
Tertiary lavas and Pleistocene moraines and recent talus depos-
its. The Tertiary sediments so characterictic of Western Ore-
gon are here either hopelessly buried, unrecognizably metamor-
phosed, or else missing altogether. Fossils, the time markers of
Nature, are few and hard to find and when found are nearly
always scarcely recognizable. Of course the granites and lavas
are almost never found to contain fossils. When they do it is
only an accident.
PRINCIPAL GEOLOGICAL EVENTS
The principal acts in the geological drama in those far
reaches of time long, long before the advent of man were some-
thing like these:
ACT I.
The deposition of the oldest sediments. This process, of
course, presupposes somewhere and somewhen primordial igne-
ous rock from which such sediments might have been derived,
but all this we'll relegate to the prologue. Act I, then, we can
look upon as a quiet time of preparation.
ACT II.
This was the beginning of a period of storm and stress with
plenty of stress, but the storm probably not coming until later.
In this act the heavy villian, a sleeping giant, underneath, begin-
ning to turn over and push up the covers, asserts himself ; this is
the granite mass which forced its way up in the post-Jurassic
Period. However, he did not emerge in this act, though he made
himself felt.
ACT III.
In the third act again, a time of comparative quiet, events of
ultimate tremendous import to the future men who were to in-
habit this region transpired. At this time the circulating ground
waters both the meteroic (that which comes from the atmos-
phere and the magmatic (that which comes from more deep-
The Wallowa Mountains 241
seated source in the lithosphere) began their slow patient accu-
mulation of the metals. Collecting here and there tiny particles,
sometimes dissolving and precipitating them, sometimes trans-
porting them bodily and concentrating them in the crevices in
the rocks, where ages after man with his drills and picks and
sweat could dig them out to buy and sell with, to gamble, perhaps,
a bit, and not least, to adorn his women folk with.
ACT IV.
Another time of storm and stress follows when the pent-up
energy below must find release and huge tongues of red molten
rock worked their way out to the surface and spread waste rock
and destruction over the surface. Contemporaneously there was
probably more lifting and heaving and the Wallowas rose to
their full height. At the same time, perhaps, occurred a large
fracturing and dropping down of the valley portion away from
the mountain block and we have what is known as a fault. This
block faulting is characteristic of Eastern Oregon, evidence of
it being seen near Baker, along the front of the Elkhorn Range,
in the Stein Mountains in Southwestern as well as in South Cen-
tral Oregon.
In the ensuing act the forces which brought about excessive
accumulation and concentration of temperature abated and the
old giant of Wallowa cooled his wrath to such an extent that his
flushed visage became paler and paler and finally his head and
shoulders were completely buried in a white canopy, this time
not of rock but of snow and ice.
What these ice streams did in their heyday we shall next
consider.
One afternoon was spent by the Mazamas exploring the long
curved finger-like ridge running along the east side of the Wal-
lowa Lake. Plate No. 1. This ridge is very remarkable and
very noticeable as a topographical feature of the region. It is
between five and six miles long and seems from the lake shore
to be two or three hundred feet high and single crested. It is
absolutely bare of trees. On climbing it one finds that near the
upper end of the lake, its top is 600 feet above the waters of the
Wallowa, and at the upper end is a single ridge of a quarter of a
mile in width, in a short distance it bifurcates and further on it
becomes five parallel ridges with shallow swales in between. At
the extreme lower end this five-fold lateral moraine of sand, clay
242 The Wallowa Mountains
and boulders, passes imperceptibly into the characteristic irreg-
ular terminal moraine. The moraine on the west side is shorter
and less interesting. Were it not for the fact of the glaciation we
would be absolutely at a loss to account for these topographical
freaks.
The effect of the character of the rock in relation to the work
of the glaciers is nicely demonstrated in the Wallowas. Where
limestone and marble were passed over by the ice we get rounded
surfaces, gentle curves, but granites and lavas were not so easily
polished off. At Ice Lake the roches moutonnees or "sheeps
backs" due to glacial polishing are particularly well developed.
The effects of glaciation are everywhere seen in the moun-
tainous portions of the Wallowa County. Wallowa Lake owes
its existence to glaciation, it being merely a river gorge widened
and deepened, dammed up on the sides and at the end by lateral
and terminal moraines respectively. These "finger lakes," of
which Wallowa is a fine, and the only example in this region, are
numerous in Glacier National Park.
The glacial cirque with amphitheatric form and the little
jewel of a lake always to be found in it is one of the topographic
features also of this region and one of its choicest bits of scenery.
The wonderful curves and colors of these mountain rock bowls
can only be appreciated by those who return again and again to
them. From Eagle Cap, on a clear day, it is possible to see as
many as sixteen of these tiny mountain jewels. Some of these
are turquoise, some emerald and others mauve and gray colored,
depending upon the nature of the rocky basins which contain
them and the particular state of the sky overhead. Besides the
cirque ampitheatres with the snow fields above them are all the
rest of the glacial phenomena, such as roches moutonnees,
already mentioned, U-shaped valleys, lateral and terminal mor-
aines, valley trains, etc., which one will find in any well-glaciated
region. The long, gentle slopes on which the city of Joseph is
located are, for the most part, made up of glacial outwash and are
wonderfully fertile. Soils of glacial origin, it is hardly necessary
to say, are invariably exceptionally rich.
The geology, physiography and glaciology of this region are
in many respects like that of the Rocky Mountain regions, in
other respects like the Sierras of California, but very little like
the Cascades or the Coast Range of Oregon. All this bears out
The Wallowa Mountains 243
and emphasizes the statement made elsewhere by the writer that
fundamentally there is little in common between Eastern and
Western Oregon. They belong to separate and totally distinct
provinces. If scientific men had the making of political boundar-
ies some of our states would have quite different shapes.
In spite of the fact that there are some comparatively old
rocks in the mountains of this country it is in a state of topo-
graphic youth and also in development of its resources young.
The youthfulness of its topography and exploitation (the best
and correct meaning of this word is here employed) are reflected
in the youthfulness of its people. Progressive ideas have only
to be suggested to be given an immediate trial. Mental inertia
is not one of the faults of the inhabitants of Wallowa County.
It may seem to some that this statement suggests an invidious
comparison. The shoe may be tried on by anyone who wishes,
but the point we wish to bring out now is the effect of environ-
ment, physiography, climate, the whole assemblage of physical
factors, upon man and his development. This effect must not, of
course, be overdrawn, neither must it be belittled.
Some of the interesting details of the geology of this region
might very properly be noted here.
At Aneroid Lake, on the property of Mr. Sieber, is a rather
unusual development of garnets varying in size from an eighth of
an inch in diameter to an inch or more. In spite of the weather-
ing they have been subjected to they show very distinctly their
characteristic dodekahedral shape, having twelve crystal faces,
each face being diamond shape. Some of these are greenish
color and some a cinnamon brown.
On the right (west side) of the trail leading from Aneroid
Lake to the first summit, and at an elevation of about 7,500 feet,
is a fine exposure of old slate, limestone lenses, schists, etc., dip-
ping to the northwest. These slates, which are extremely hard,
emit a ringing sound when struck with a hammer, and con-
tain index fossils of the Triassic Period in geological history.
Over on the west fork of the Wallowa, well up to the source
of the stream, on the claim called the "Opal," and owned by
Manuel Lopez, was seen a very interesting grouping of minerals.
In a pocket in the quartz vein which lay between foot wall and
hanging walls of granite, we found scheelite (the ore of tungsten)
almost every copper mineral known, including the principal ores
244 The Wallowa Mountains
of copper, pyrite and bornite, molybdenite (the ore of molybde-
num and one of the chief substances used to harden steel) and
phlogopite mica. Between this pocket and the footwall lay a
band a foot wide of fine, green mica, in minute flakes.
Over the divide, in the Cornucopia district, one of the most
distinctive geological features is the Aplite dike, known as the
"forest dike." Aplite is a variety of fine grained granite, con-
sisting chiefly of the minerals — quartz and feldspar. The local
name of forest dike has an interesting derivation. Along the
cracks are fine markings, arborescent in shape, due to fine de-
posits of manganese oxide dissolved out of the rocks and deposi-
ted in the cracks and joints. These are not fossil moss or vege-
tation of any kind as some have supposed, but the likeness is so
marked that the name "Forest Dike" is a very appropriate name.
The most interesting fact in connection with this dike is that the
principal gold deposits so far located on the Cornucopia side of
the range are found right up against this dike either on one side
or the other. Some gold values even penetrate the dike itself.
The dike is several feet wide and can be plainly followed on the
surface for a half mile or more.
ECONOMIC GEOGRAPHY
It would be only natural to find in a region so geologically
and climatically diversified all manner of resources, some well
developed, others just beginning to be opened up, and still others
unsuspected or little availed of.
Some of these are listed below in the order of their present
development :
1. Agriculture.
2. Hogs and sheep.
3. Minerals (gold, limestone and decorative stone).
4. Forests.
5. Water power.
6. Scenery.
In 1915 this country ranked first in rye production, third in
barley and ninth in wheat, although in area it comes tenth of all
the counties of Oregon. The writer is no farmer so he will offer
no suggestions relating to this branch of industry, save this : It
seems that some device, such as hydraulic rams, might be em-
ployed to get water up onto the more elevated lava plateaus where
The Wallowa Mountains 245
dry farming is now being used. Dry-farming, in spite of all that
has been written about it, is a poor substitute for the old, old
method of using water. It will, of course, have to suffice when
water is not available, but in Wallowa County there is no short-
age of water. All that is necessary is to devise a practicable
method of bringing water to this land. It may surprise some to
know that this county is first in the raising of hogs, a very patri-
otic kind of crop just now, as well as profitable.
As for minerals — on the Cornucopia side much prospecting
and development work has been done, with some good, substan-
tion producers as a result, but at the present time there are only
two mines worthy of the name operating in a district which
ought to have a score. On the Wallowa side of the range, with
even better surface indications, perhaps, there is not a single
metal mine in operation. Gold is the only metal now being won,
but the veins show copper, lead, molybdenium, tungsten, etc., be-
sides gold, silver and tellurium. What are the reasons for this
lack of development? They are several, as follows: (the writer
here is not fault-finding, but making an honest effort to present
conditions in their true light so as to help the country. Scientific
promotion and not boosting is what this country, as well as the
rest of Oregon needs).
1. Ignorance about the region on the part of the outside
world.
2. Early ill-advised ventures and downright swindles such
as the notorious Tenderfoot.
3. Absence of scientific prospecting and development in
the beginning.
4. Lack of capital and backing for those who have faith in
the country.
Now these are not peculiar to any one camp, it has been the
history of every new region in the world, certainly of every new
mining field.
There is one mineral, or rather rock, which is found in the
Wallowa country which is almost unique, certainly very rare,
namely, the black marble, which is found, plastered, as it were,
up against the face of the escarpment on the side toward and
nearest Enterprise, on Silver Creek. The overlying waste ma-
terial is now being burned to make a first-class grade of lime.
The new kiln recently erected for the company by W. A. Gossett,
246 The Wallow a Mountains
of Baker City, appeared in every way a very efficient one. The
lime is only a by-product from this quarry, the principal asset
being the exceptionally high grade decorative marble. A table
made of this black polished stone, the blackness here and there
relieved by a spot of snowy whiteness, was on exhibit at the
Panama Pacific Exposition in 1915, and struck many as being
the finest single article on exhibit in that great galaxy of rare
and wonderful objects. As far as we know Belgium is the only
other country which has produced as fine a quality of stone.
There appears to be an almost inexhaustible supply of the Wal-
lowa stone, but lack of a market will for some time work against
it. Oregon architects need not go elsewhere for decorative stone,
for Wallowa furnishes a superior product. The blackness of
the rock has puzzled some who have difficulty in realizing that it
is marble. It is due to included carbonaceous (organic) matter
which disappears as soon as it is subjected to a fair amount
of heat.
Materials for making cement are probably also to be had.
The above mentioned limestone and glacial clays in the moraines
could, in all probability be utilized to this end, though no detailed
investigations have been made to our knowledge.
The war, if it continues much longer, will cause the exploita-
tion of the tungsten and molybdenum bearing veins, just as it
has developed the chromite industry in other parts of Eastern
Oregon.
If all the mineral territory could be brought into responsible
and efficient hands, as is the case of the properties controlled by
the Baker mines, there would be an end of waste and muddle
and the whole mineral industry would go forward with steady
strides.
FORESTS
As others can speak with more authority and from better
information about timber resources of this region, I shall in
passing, merely give the impressions of one who has seen forests
in many parts of the world, and who has been trained to take
rapid inventories of natural resources of new countries. There
is an abundance of forested country in the Wallowa region, es-
pecially on the north side of the range. A great deal of the timber
is small, more like lodge-pole pine, tameracks, etc., excellent for
certain purposes such as mine stulls, and interspersed with it a
!
,
The Wallowa Mountains 247
fair supply of yellow pine. The forests are very similar to those
of Idaho and Montana, but, of course, much inferior to those of
Western Oregon and Washington. The lack of undergrowth is
a conspicuous and pleasant point about these forests.
On the south slopes of the Wallowa Mountains the quality
and stands of timber are both, as far as we encountered them,
disappointing. There is still in this region all the timber needed
for all reasonable local uses. The Government is taking good
care now that this supply is not wasted.
WATER POWER
It goes, almost without saying, that a region of the kind we
have under discussion, should be amply supplied with water
power. The elevation, the latitude, the precipitation, all insure
deep and lingering snow fields. The melting of these, with the
sharp declivity, furnish abundant and swift streams, in which
the power is enhanced by numerous water falls. Add to all these
the cirque lakes, which insure a permanent and steady flow of
water, we have ideal conditions. The writer has not made nor
seen any estimate of the horsepower available, but is firmly con-
vinced that there is plenty in these mountains to enable the
industrial wheels of Wallowa County to turn, for centuries to
come.
SCENERY
As yet little or nothing has been said on this subject from
the commercial standpoint. Here is a very profitable commer-
cial asset of the country, which some have realized, but which has
not yet borne full fruit. The chief reason being the lack of adver-
tising of the right kind. No organization in Oregon can supply
this deficiency as can the Mazamas, and that is the reason why
in this article the writer has covered some subjects which are not
strictly geological. However this may strike the reader, nothing
so far has been said, which is not as far as we now know true,
nor which does not follow legitimately from a consideration of
the geological and physiographical features of this region. Per-
sonally the writer regards Wallowa Lake as one of the most at-
tractive spots in Oregon. Build a good, attractive hotel at the
head of the Wallowa Lake, another one at Cornucopia, place a
few Swiss Chalets here and there in the mountains between, put
some motor boats on the Lake and wait for returns. You will
not have to wait long.
248 The Wallow a Mountains
What with abundant water, rich and diversified soil, both
volcanic and glacial, in origin, in addition to other resources,
plenty of sunlight, varied scenery, some of it meriting the adjec-
tive "grand," favorable climate, extensive mineralization, a topo-
graphy in no way monotonous, and last, a class of people ener-
getic and skilled, there is a bright future ahead for this sec-
tion of Oregon.
EPILOGUE
The following few words have little direct relation to the
foregoing descriptive matter and are appended here for the per-
usal of the writer's Mazama friends, and the casual reader is
forewarned that he reads them at his own risk.
We have, in the above descriptive matter, been dealing en-
tirely with concrete facts about purely material things. There
are some other things, less tangible, ideas, impressions, senti-
ments, whatever you are pleased to call them, which came to us
very forcibly on this last outing. Perhaps others felt and saw
the same as the writer but on the chance that some of this may
find an answer in the hearts of our Mazama friends, we put these
thoughts forth for what they may be worth.
As we climbed on our way to Eagle Cap the crowning point
of the Wallowa Range, we began to compare the long toiling up-
ward with the long march of humanity from the time of the an-
thropoids up to the present time. At the start we floundered
around a bit, looking for the trail. There was some confusion
as some of these trails were blind ones. Undoubtedly our an-
cestors made many false starts and may not the monkeys, gorillas,
etc., represent these false starts of humanity? In our climb up
the mountain we encountered long, gentle slopes, sunlit and
flower strewn, where all seemed well with the world. These cor-
respond to the years of peace when some progress upward, though
slow, is made. And then comes a temporary reverse grade, where
we seem to be losing all we had gained before. How often do we
hear persons pessimistically inclined bemoan the fact that the
human race is degenerating, and assert that civilization is not
on as exalted a plane as in the time of the Greeks. These per-
sons lack perspective, they are too close to the thing they
are looking at and do not see enough. Following these short
reverse grades we strike sharp upward slopes, rough, to be sure,
but away we go higher and higher, and we "make elevation" very
The Wallowa Mountains 249
rapidly. At the top of some of these steep ascents we stop all out
of breath and almost exhausted. May we not liken these times to
war times in the life of the race, when in spite of the temporary
exhaustion we find that great progress has been made? Some
times as the column of climbers goes plodding along discourage-
ment is plainly evident and doubts are expressed as to whether
progress is being made, or as to the objective, and some say, "Oh,
whats the use ! Oh, Lord, how long, how long !" And now and then
one drops out by the wayside, but the leader up ahead has had a
vision of the heights beyond and he sends back word to the toil-
ers to be of good cheer, "to carry on." And so it is in life. We
are making progress all the time, but we must have leaders.
Once in a while some demagogue, some dangerous theorist, will
persuade the people to do away with leaders and the proletariat
is enthroned for a while, then the trail is lost and all go flounder-
ing in the snowdrifts or come to some yawning chasm, from
which all shrink in horror.
But what, some cynic asks, will be gained by getting to the
top, what do we do there, what can we see, "where do we go
from there ?" Perhaps there is nothing more, but we think other-
wise. At any rate it is "not the gold, but the finding of the gold"
that makes many a man go on.
Have you ever thought, reader, what a long, long, hard, hard
trail the human race has come over? Have you ever thought of
this that considering what this race has come from and through,
we ought not to deplore the meanness of the human species, but
rather wonder at the goodness in man? And having come thus
far on the upward trail, may he not climb to heights yet un-
dreamed of, to pinnacles of glory still hidden by clouds and
foliage ?
Even now we are on one of those steep, terribly hard, up-
ward pulls ; the rocks slip under our feet, the mist surrounds us,
we seem to see darkly. "Patiencia." Some of us will be bruised
and broken, the packs are too heavy, some will not come out of
the shadow and a stone or two crossed sticks will mark where
this one or that one succumbed, but of one thing, reader, have no
doubt, the main column will pull through — this old world may
be, as one writer says, a disorder of forces, but there is in man
a spirit which is resistlessly curbing the elements — bringing
order out of disorder. There are many physical signs that we
250 The Wallowa Mountains
are nearing the end of an epoch and man and woman released
from the old, worn out shackles, will march together as Mazama
comrades in a new and better relation to those heights seen only
by the leaders, and as we go we sing together the words of the
psalmist of old, "I will lift up mine eyes unto the mountains."
Eugene, Oregon, September, 1918.
Out in the Fields
The little cares that fretted me,
I lost them yesterday
Among the fields above the sea,
Among the winds at play,
Among the lowing of the herds,
The rustling of the trees,
Among the singing of the birds,
The humming of the bees;
The foolish fears of what might happen,
I cast them all away
Among the clover-scented grass,
Among the new-mown hay,
Among the hushing of the corn
Where drowsy poppies nod,
Where ill thoughts die and good are born,
Out in the fields with God.
Aboriginal Nomenclature
HENRY SICADE
Of the big peaks or snow covered mountains, in the United
States, there is but one which is known and called by its abor-
iginal name, Mt. Shasta.
There are a few small mountains bearing aboriginal names
but nearly all are known by names of explorers or named after
famous or prominent persons.
My people, the red race, has never been a party to any dis-
putes as to names of rivers, lakes, bays, mountains or ranges, nor
do I desire to take part in any such controversy. With us, more
often the naming of tribes, rivers, mountains, etc., are given by
other tribes of other sections. For instance, my tribe, the
Squallys, now officially known as the Nisquallys; derived their
name from the tops of flowers, herbs and grass; waving back
and forth when the wind blows. When the first French explorers
came to our country, they asked our people their tribal name and
were informed Squally, "Oh! Quarrel Nez-quarre." My people
have blunt noses, the French, naturally named them, "Nez'-
quarre," square noses ; the Americans now call us Nisquallys.
My adopted tribe, the Puyallups, got their name from the
plains people because they were quite generous and gave more
than was needed ; "Pough" — pile up, add more, or running over,
"Allup," people. The aboriginal people were quite original in
their ways.
Another name in dispute ; this dispute is not by us or by any
inter-tribal disagreement, but by prominent white people of
different sections of the state of Washington. It is the name of
nearly all of Pierce County, Washington, given us by tribes fur-
ther north or west; this name is "Tiswauk," Tiswauk means
"barely discernable at a great distance ;" having the great moun-
tain as a mark to designate the surrounding country. As you
are all aware, originally, aboriginal names had meanings, some
we know, others have been lost, all having been handed down
through countless generations and sometimes only the name sur-
vives, but not the meaning. You will also notice that most ab-
original names have significant meanings, suggestive or fitted to
signify some thing or having peculiar characteristics. Some of
252 Aboriginal Nomenclature
them to my ear are very euphonious, and easy to pronounce, con-
sfdering that our language is very gutteral.
I am going to tell you in three stories, or to be exact, if you
please, three legends, how the name Tacoma originated. My
mother tongue is spoken by nearly all of Western Washington
and with different tribes there are slight variations and the
farther away you get, north, west, or east, there are great varia-
tions, in British Columbia or its borders and east of the Cascade
Range the dialect or languages are entirely different.
My own people call it "Tacobud." Ta — that or the, Co —
water, Bud — where it comes from. The plains people, those liv-
ing east of the mountain range call it Tahomah. When a Klick-
itat says Tahomah, he gives that ring in awe ; the mountain, the
great mountain, which gives thunder and lightning, having great
unseen powers. These plains people dominated Western Wash-
ington, and like the descendants of the Puritans the Cavaliers,
we who are from the plains people are proud of them. But Ta-
cobud or Tahomah, do not tell us how the name Tacoma orig-
inated ; some of us have tried to delve into our past. In the un-
recorded past of the aboriginal people, their authority for names,
customs, etc., are legends ; myths in your estimation. Legends are
our histories, telling of the origin of peoples, lands and natural
objects, etc.
There is on the western slope of Mt. Tacoma, a little valley
rich in nature's gifts of berries, game and fish. This particular
place was the real Tiswauk, inhabited by a small band of natives,
called Tiswaukumsh (meaning people of that locality.)
There lived and grew up a beautiful young woman; before
the mountain existed. This young woman was betrothed to a
brave of the Olympic peninsula, . who already had a wife. The
young wife was jealous of the other wife and their rivalry grew
bitter, and at last the young woman started something and
scratched the face of her rival, and the brave interfered, and he,
too, got scratched. The young woman prepared to leave for
good, taking her son along, and also a liberal supply of dried
fish. When about ready to pull away in their canoe, the young
mother exclaimed to the boy "Tacoma," meaning don't forget to
take the snow water along. From that exclamation she was
called or named "Tacoma." When the young woman and the
young son returned to their native land, the Great "Changer,"
Aboriginal Nomenclature 253
taking the form of a fox (Doupuel-buth) came and handed her
as punishment for leaving her husband, the decree that she should
be changed into the present, snow covered mountain; and the
little son is that sort of a hump on the southwestern part of the
peak. In measuring out justice to both man and wife, the hus-
band was also punished and was turned into a part of the Olympic
Range and about Jackson's Cove, Hood's Canal, the old Indians
point to great fissures as the finger marks of the jealous wife.
Here is another legend, or the second one. For a small area
of land between Hood's Canal and the Pacific Ocean, no other
place or section had produced so many peaks as Ha-had-hun
(the Olympic Range.) In the dim past the peaks were people.
Swy-loobs, one of the peaks, married a peak called Tacoma. The
peaks grew up and were constantly extending and crowding one
another. To give more room to the others, Tacoma offered to
go away and settle where she could get more room, as she was
growing bigger and bigger all the time. To the rising sun she
said : "The people who live there have no mountains, I'll go there
and live there and give my limbs a chance to expand." Tacoma
had a hard time to get free and loose as the other peaks had
grown so close together. To show her good intentions she took
all the salmon and fish, which were very plentiful, along with
her, so those who might live with her might have plenty of food.
In her haste she forgot to take the tail of a fish, so Hood's Canal
always had plenty, despite her intentions to take all the fish away.
The last story, or legend, or myth, is this : When Tacoma
had settled where she now is, instead of being a benefit to the
people who lived there as she said she would be, she turnd into
a devouring monster. Any one going to the mountains to hunt
or pick berries never returned. There was great consternation
and wailing ; then others volunteered to go out one after another.
The first ones never returned, the last got back. The mountain
sucked or drew in all who got near her into her inner parts and
devour them. In those days there was an animal, the "mink"
some say; others say it was the "fox," who was known as the
"Changer" of such things. He was sent for and as a precaution
had made lots of ropes from the hazel bushes, twisted and tied
together. The "Changer" challenged the mountain to a duel
of drawing or sucking on one another by their breaths. The
mountain did its utmost and many rocks and boulders and trees
and what not were hurled into her innermost.
254 Aboriginal Nomenclature
The challenger, being tied securely, held his own; but the
boulders and rocks rolling by him nearly killed him. Bruised
and battered, the "Changer" finally won out. Tacoma's blood
vessels broke open everywhere and that caused the many rivers
and streams. She died and the "Changer" said hereafter the
mountain shall be harmless and the rivers teem with fishes for
the good or benefit of all the people.
I regret that my people have not left more reliable data of
the past than legends. Yet that was their way of memorializing
events. The broken fragments of a once happy, contented, lib-
erty-loving, proud race all over this wide continent, can not but
affect the present-time writer or keen observer with pity. Com-
ing as a representative of that vanishing race, I hesitate to say,
yet true, that all tangible memorials of my fallen race have van-
ished. Yet we have played our part, possibly not as forcibly as
others, and when we are no more you, the conquerors, although
with little sympathy or consideration in your treatment, will
admit you have absorbed something of worth from us. One of
the real joys of mankind is the American weed — the tobacco.
May you always smoke it in peace. The lowly wapato, now digni-
fied in an immense commerce, and the potato, with the Indian
corn, are two of the greatest staples of food, which always grew
in America. The great American bird, the turkey, has given
us one of the finest customs of mankind. You had to come to
America to learn to give thanks. The Great Spirit has always
been recognized here. The red man without question was the
original exponent of liberty. Of a native population of 300,000,
2 per cent, or 6,000 red blooded red men have enlisted to fight
for your liberty. Many more, not accounted for, have gone over
the boundary line and joined the British forces. Had 2 per cent
of your 100,000,000 population enlisted you would have an army
of 2,000,000 without drafting.
I want to thank you, you the American people, for having
perpetuated aboriginal names. I shall not worry nor question
your good judgment for justice, if left to your decision. Past
records have shown that you have been very liberal in retaining
original or aboriginal names. Twenty-four states of our great
country of forty-eight states, and one territory, and countless
villages, towns, cities, counties, rivers, lakes, and so forth, have
aboriginal names and as time rolls by these names become so
established in the English language that even now, and by and
by, you will not know that the vanishing race had furnished them.
The 1918 Mazama Outing to Mt. Hood
By A. BOYD WILLIAMS
The annual Mazama Outing to Mt. Hood, which is given
principally to qualify persons for membership in the Mazama
Club, was conducted this year by the Local Walks Committee on
August 10th and llth. This was a later date than usual, giving
those who usually make the climb earlier in the season an oppor-
tunity of viewing the mountain in its fall aspect when the gla-
ciers are icy and almost devoid of snow.
About one hundred and thirty persons registered for the
trip, and as fast as they gathered at the starting point on Satur-
day afternoon they were whisked away by the autos which were
waiting for them. The ride to Government Camp was made
through a steady drizzle, which increased as we proceeded. One
by one the cars arrived, their occupants were served with hot
soup and a hearty dinner, after which they started merrily on
their tramp to Timber Line. Here an advance party had strung
up a couple of canvas flys and these, with the U. S. Forestry
Service cabin afforded us some shelter from the rain, which, by
this time, was coming down so steadily that even the thinnest of
us could not step between the drops. A blazing campfire helped
somewhat to keep our knees from bumping together.
Although no one had visions of real slumber, we all turned
in by ten o'clock and from this time on the true spirit of moun-
taineers was very evident. The girls were packed in about two
layers on the floor of the cabin and most of them wanted to
know why it had been built so high and narrow and short at
both ends, since there was plenty of room from about one foot
above the floor straight up. The men, under the tent flys, were
only in one ply, but so arranged that some one's ear was reposing
on the other fellow's boot, or a pair of knees abutting against
some other unfortunate's chest, and all this time the gentle rain
drops were oozing through the water proof canvass, playing tag
with us, and it wasn't long before everyone was "it." Under
these conditions all members of the party conducted themselves
like end-men in a minstrel show. Jokes, repartee and quips were
indulged in until about 2:30 A. M., when some one suggested
that we end the miserable features of the night by getting up.
256 The 1918 Mazama Outing to Mt. Hood
Coffee was soon brewing and this, with our fruit and sandwiches,
served as our breakfast.
We began the ascent from camp at 3:15 A. M. in absolute
darkness, with the exception of three flashlights, and as we left
the timber, proceeding over the moraines, we were greeted by a
storm sleet which froze to our clothes as fast as it struck.
This was the final test of the nerve of the crowd. A few looked
back at the faint gleam of a camp fire with a "why-did-we-leave-
it" expression on their faces and decided that discretion was the
better part of valor and unceremoniously disappeared. From
this time on our orderly line was turned into a mass formation.
Some were arguing for more speed ahead while from the rear
came shouts of "What's the rush? we're all strung out for a mile."
"The mountain will keep, this kind of weather wont?" etc.
About seven o'clock the clouds broke away and there before
us lay old Mt. Hood in all its glory, with its ever present chal-
lenge of "Come on up." This gave fresh stimulus to everyone and
by eight-thirty we were resting on Crater Rock, trying to en-
courage the sun to hand us a little more heat. In about an hour
we had sufficiently thawed out and recuperated so as to make
a final and supreme effort up the steep slope and "over the top"
where the wonderful scenic award awaited us. On all sides, far
below, in the foothills, great fleecy banks of sun-kissed clouds
drifted slowly along and we realized that those who stayed below
were still getting the rain while we basked in the sunshine and
feasted our eyes on the wonderful view.
One hundred and seven out of the one hundred and twenty
that left Timber Line reached the summit, which was a very cred-
itable showing under the circumstances, for most of the climb
was made under very disagreeable weather conditions. A great
many had made their initial climb and, therefore, were deserv-
ing of much credit for the way each individual encouraged and
helped the other fellow and plugged along with an intensity of
purpose and determination which wins the title of Mazama.
After an hour or so on the summit the descent was made.
Sliding was not up to par as the slopes were too icy at this sea-
son of the year. Upon returning to Government Camp we were
all served with another hearty dinner and were well satisfied
to climb into our machines, bound for home, tired but happy in
the thought that we had accomplished the thing for which we had
set out.
Jaunt of the Four Ex-Presidents
By R. L. GLISAN
The jaunt of the four ex-presidents of the Mazamas in 1916,
when they visited the Mazama Camp at the Three Sisters, proved
such a success that last summer the four decided to repeat, by
visiting the Club at Wallowa Lake.
On the afternoon of July 10, 1918, C. H. Sholes, John A. Lee,
R. L. Glisan and Jerry Bronaugh left Portland in Sholes' car.
Bronaugh, who was also an ex-president, took the place of M.
W. Gorman, who was prevented by illness from going.
We motored up the Columbia Highway as far as Cascade
Locks. The road beyond being impassable, due to construction
work, we ran the car on an improvised ferry, and, seated in
the car, enjoyed the glorious sunset tints as the ferry took us up
the grandest portion of that grand old river. The ferry landed
us at Hood River, and we made camp in the Cottonwoods on the
river bank. We were fully equipped to camp out. On the run-
ning board Sholes had constructed a long box to hold the com-
missary. On the opposite side a broad sheet iron, on hinges,
held the dunnage bags and cooking utensils in place. The sheet
iron in camp was lowered to form an indestructible table. We
all had considerable experience in camp cooking. Each had a
sleeping bag and we had two silkolene flys, 10x10, for shelter,
if necessary.
From Hood River we motored over the Hosier Hill, a long,
stiff climb, then over the Ortley hill, with its twenty-five per
cent grades, where we caught a glimpse of Eastern Oregon.
Lunched at The Dalles and went on over another grade on an
open slope, where we could look down on the cascades and locks
at Celilo. Beyond Celilo we dropped down grade to the Deschutes
River, crossed on the toll bridge and followed the Columbia a
few miles and then left the river, the road winding up a narrow
defile through the mountain wall and out into the rolling wheat
belt of Wasco County. We crossed the John Day River on a
small ferry about dusk, while a chilly wind and no trees made
camp prospects look forlorn. We followed its further bank to
Rock Creek and up the creek several miles ; made camp, stretch-
ing our flys over our sleeping bags as heat lightning and mutter-
Jaunt of the Four Ex-Presidents 259
ing thunder promised rain. A light shower followed, cooling
and clarifying the air, and best of all, laying the dust for the day
following. Doves, chats and quail called to us from the bushes
along the creek and a rancher supplied us with hay for bedding,
rich Jersey milk and clear, cold spring water. What had seemed
cheerless proved just the contrary. The next day we crossed an
open, rolling, treeless country, interspersed with golden yellow
grain fields, intersected with deep cut ravines, where the washed-
out, rock-strewn road made hard navigation for the skillfully
piloted Hupmobile. Ground owls, weird and witch-like, came
out of gopher holes and rolled their bleary eyes at us. Olex sup-
plied us with gas. A recent cloudburst at lone forced us to pick
our way over mud plastered streets and at Heppner we lunched
in the park, with flood and fire sufferers. We were warned
not to use city water, the flood polluting the supply. Any one
inclined to grumble should see the brave spirit manifested in that
fated twice-stricken community.
Ten miles out from Heppner we toiled over two long grades,
making Pendleton late in the afternoon, camping on a boulder-
strewn flat in a park-like cluster of scattering trees and bushes.
Jerry thought he could improve his gravel bed by using a dis-
carded piece of sheet iron for a mattress.
Beyond Pendleton lay the limitless grain fields of the Uma-
tilla Indian Reservation, golden yellow, waving and rippling
in the breeze.
Harvest here required superhuman efforts in the way of a
giant combination thresher which cut, gathered, gleaned, sacked
and left the almost bursting grain bags in its path by heaps of
threshed out straw.
Rising above the plains we made the crest of the Blue
Mountains, looking back over and over again at the ever ex-
panding view. We are inclined to think of Western Oregon and
its timber and Eastern Oregon with its sagebrush. Here con-
ditions were reversed. The open, treeless plains extended be-
hind us to the west, while from the crest of the Blue Mountains
down the eastern slope spread the finest yellow pine. Crossing
the crest we started down the eastern slope through the forest.
The road ran just as the early pioneers laid it out, the old Immi-
grant road straight up and straight down, heedless of contours
and ignorant of grades. We dropped down grade to Meacham,
only to rise again.
260 Jaunt of the Four Ex-Presidents
We made La Grande about mid-day and from there went on
through Elgin to the rim of Wallowa Canyon. Here the road
plunged down the steep wall in dizzy zig-zags, and then followed
the river out into Wallowa Valley, well irrigated, one of the most
fertile in the state.
While taking supper at Wallowa a brisk thunder shower
cooled the air. We kept on enjoying the vivid sunset effects and
camped on the banks of the Wallowa among huge cottonwood.
The next morning we passed Enterprise and Joseph and
came to Wallowa Lake. White clouds, blue water and the setting
of snow-tipped peaks made a wonderful composition.
We arrived at the main Mazama Camp about an hour ahead
of the party who came by train to Joseph, where the autos oi
that town hospitably gathered to take them up to camp . We were
camped on the West Fork of the Wallowa River just above the
lake, near the junction with the East Fork. From this as a base
camp we tramped and knapsacked, taking in Aneroid Lake, where
we caught three pound Eastern Brook trout. Upper Lake Basin,
Horseshoe Lake, where we caught gamey Rainbow trout, Mirror
Lake and other lakes close to Eagle Cap. We climbed Eagle Cap,
visited Ice Lake and returned to Wallowa Lake and the auto. It
was a wonderful region, as others will more fully describe.
Leaving the lake we reversed our way to La Grande
and camped that night by Catharine Creek, on the edge of
Union town.
A hospitable miller turned his electric lighted barn over to
us. Jerry and Sholes chose the hay for their beds, while John
and I spread our sleeping bags on fragrant yielding corn shucks
in the ample feed pen and slept under the stars. The next morn-
ing our friend renewed his hospitality and gathered some fresh
hen fruit and handing me a small shotgun to slay a prize spring
game chicken, a most welcome addition to our breakfast.
We then admired his thoroughbred live stock and under his
guidance visited the State Experimental Station where the son
of our Governor expanded on the methods employed to secure
beardless barley and rye, and finished our inspection at the Shet-
land Pony farm, the best on the coast.
Taking a southerly course we passed North Powder and
made Baker by noon, parking our auto in the shade, for the sun
was tropical.
Jaunt of the Four Ex-Presidents 261
Beyond Baker we approached the Blue Mountains. Again
crossing timbered slopes, we followed the valley down to Sump-
ter, of gold mining fame. The town was hardly there, fire hav-
ing completely wiped out all of its business section a year ago.
We secured fine water from a pipe rising from the blackened
timbers, and fresh milk and advice from one of the very few
still loyal citizens who had lost all but their pluck and cheerful-
ness. That night we gathered armfuls of tumbleweed for our
bed, and advised others to do the same, if they wished to rest in
bouyant comfort.
The following morning we rose with the sun and were soon
on our way. Again we entered pine timber on the mountain crest
and again we came down to another valley, the John Day. It was
hot, Prairie City, where we lunched, being the hottest place on
the trip. Following down the John Day we went up Canyon
Creek, stopping to watch the huge gold dredger devour gravel
and cast it out in mounds while the gold remained on the riffle
bars within.
Canyon City, of placer mining fame, is now a peaceful
village. Once again we crossed the Blue Mountains through pine
timber and out into the Juniper Country. Beyond us lay Har-
ney Valley. The setting sun lingered long enough to throw a
crimson glow over the wide spreading valley, and we had just
time before dark to locate camp on the sage brush fringed bank
of Silvies River on the outskirts of Burns.
A broken clutch pin had prevented proper gear shifting and
hitting high places had proved too severe on our rear springs.
We spent a day at Burns imploring and brow-beating over-
worked garage and blacksmith workers to replace the broken
spring.
Late afternoon we headed southerly again, crossed the Nar-
rows between Malheur and Harney Lake at sunset, followed the
southerly shore of Harney, the lake edge having receded three
miles in the year past, the driest season known.
A biting wind made us hurry at Dietz Hot Springs to get
camp shaped up for the night. Steam rose from a dozen or
more hot pools. The place was deserted save for jackrabbits and
coyotes. We were near the southwest edge of Harney Lake. We
tried to gather sagebrush to lift our sleeping bags off the pow-
dery alkali dust, but found the brush was chic, a bush covered
262 Jaunt of the Four Ex-Presidents
with sharp thorns. At midnight it rained in a country that
looked as if it never knew rain.
In the morning the sun tried to break through masses of
white clouds.
We used different hot pools for cooking, washing and bak-
ing and the sun quickly dried out our scanty belongings.
We left the springs by the only road in sight and started
across the desert.
The rain had cooled the air, laid the dust and fleecy clouds
shut off the intense sun's rays, making what we had dreaded
appear more attractive. For forty miles we traveled without
a sign of human life, passing only one cabin, and that deserted.
Finally we passed a rancher on his way out with his family for
good and all, leaving behind the best ranch that lay out of doors,
the only drawback being lack of water. We asked him where we
were and his laconic reply "Jackass Hills" seemed especially ap-
propriate.
About noon we arrived at Catlo, the entire population, con-
sisting of the postmaster, being on the step of his adobe cabin,
surveying the pools of water in the road, the first rain since last
September.
From Catlo we went northwesterly over a sagebrush and rock
strewn country, sage hens taking flight, jack rabbits bouncing up
here and there, coyotes slinking stealthily away as we advanced.
We were crossing where Finley had taken movies of antelopes,
but we failed to see any.
Just at sunset the road dropped into a slight coolie or ravine,
and then out in a most spectacular manner around the edge of a
2000 foot wall, rising abruptly from the Warner Lakes Basin.
Below us lay a chain of lakes of bloody crimson tinted by the sun.
The road was literally hewn out of the side wall for three miles,
so narrow that we had to remove rocks from ruts we dared not
dodge. We looked anxiously ahead as an approaching auto would
have been a serious problem.
Long after dark we entered Plush at the lower end of the
lakes, and asked a cowboy in chaps, leaning against the hotel bar,
for the proprietor. It must have been a typical frontier place
before the state went dry, the rendezvous of cow punchers from
the big cattle ranches where they count their acres by the thous-
Top — McKenzie Pass — Timber Mound Surrounded by Lava Flow
Center — Site of Prouty Monument.
Bottom — McKenzie River.
Top — Deschutes and Columbia Rivers.
Center — Diamond Peak from Odell Lake.
Bottom — Fort Rock.
Jaunt of the Four Ex-Presidents 263
ands. The cook had retired and refused to budge so the hotel
keeper dished up some leftovers and we "fell to."
Camp was made with little ceremony, darkness and weari-
ness intervening.
We were surprised the next day to see the stretch of pine
timber we had to pass through on the way to Lakeview, which
we reached about noon. The name implies proximity to a lake,
but Goose Lake has shrunken and is five miles away.
Taking the road northerly we passed Abert Lake and
camped at Summer Lake, recently sold by the state for the val-
uable deposits of potash and salts. We were surprised at the
fertile ranches we passed, as we expected alkali and barren
waste.
Silver Lake, which we passed the next day, was so nearly
dry that they were cultivating what was formerly the lake bed.
Beyond the lake we passed Fort Rock, a lava pile, standing alone
in a flat country, looking like a shell broken fortress.
Some miles beyond we left the Highway and took a cross
road westerly to Crescent and on to Odell Lake. A stiff breeze
forced us down the outlet where we were protected by the trees
and bank from the wind.
The next day we rowed up to the further and, securing
several dozen fair sized trout and a view of Diamond Peak close
by. It took two solid hours of steady rowing to return, proof of
the size of the lake.
After late lunch, with trout, and more trout for the menu,
we took the road to Davis Lake, and then on to the Wickiup
Ranger's Station on the Deschutes, where we bathed and fished
with fair success.
Rough roads and limited time prevented going in to Crane
Prairie. Taking the road down stream through attractive yel-
low pine, we passed Pringle Falls and stopped to drink from the
source of Spring River, where the river jumps full size from a
dry hillside.
Crossing the Deschutes we camped on the further bank and
again attempted, with poor results, to catch more trout while
broiling some we had caught the previous day.
We easily made Bend the next morning, lunched at Sisters
and camped at Frog Meadows on the McKenzie Pass. Crossing
the Pass is always fascinating, no matter how many times you
264 Jaunt of the Four Ex-Presidents
try it. You suddenly meet the lava flow as if only yesterday it
had flowed down into the forest. Crossing its dark, undulating
surface we saw the Three Sisters close on our left, Washington
and Jefferson further away to the north, their snow mantles
making them the more conspicuous in the long, slanting rays of
the late afternoon sun.
At Frog Camp, without waiting to make camp, we took the
trail to the base of the Middle Sister, and the four ex-presidents,
did homage at the bronze tablet marking the ashes of Ex-Presi-
dent Prouty. As we stood there the sun dropped below the
horizon.
We returned late to camp, keeping the trail with some effort
in the darkness.
We lunched next day near Blue River on the McKenzie, fol-
lowing down that beautiful rushing stream to its junction with
the Willamette at Eugene.
Portland was reached the next day, having traveled close
to 1500 miles and having traversed twenty-one counties. Not
once had we slept under shelter during the three weeks outing.
I have detailed our itinerary as a guide to other fishermen
and scenery seekers.
Give me Thy harmony, 0 Lord, that I
May understand the beauty of the sky,
The rhythm of the soft wind's lullaby,
The sun and shadow of the wood in spring
And Thy great Love that Dwells in everything!
— Alexander Pringle.
The Total Eclipse of the Sun
By ELAINE COLES
The United States was favored during the late Spring of
1918 by that most beautiful of all celestial phenomena, a total
solar eclipse. The path of totality entered this country from the
Pacific Ocean near Grays Harbor, Washington, and extended in
a general southeasterly direction across the states, finally leaving
the continent on the eastern coast of Florida. The Pacific
Northwest was particularly fortunate in the matter of the eclipse
in that totality occurred in the middle of the afternoon when the
sun was high above the horizon, and further by the fact that
the total phase was of longer duration than elsewhere in the
United States.
Several expeditions were sent out from the observatories of
the country, and in addition many amateur astronomers and lay-
men journeyed to the path of totality for the purpose of making
scientific observations or simply to witness this unusual phe-
nomenon, which perhaps most of them will never see again.
The Lick Observatory expedition located a station at Gol-
dendale, Washington, the United States Naval Observatory at
Baker, Oregon, and the Mt. Wilson Solar Observatory and Yer-
kes Observatory at Green River, Wyoming. The line of totality
passed directly through the city of Denver, Colorado, and prep-
arations to view the eclipse were made at the Chamberlain Ob-
servatory there, but clouds obscured the sun and no observations
of totality were secured, the observers being only able to see the
color effects of the eclipse as reflected by the clouds on the
horizon.
The writer witnessed the eclipse at Goldendale, Washing-
ton, and as it happened, at the time of totality the sky was clear
in the region of the sun and the "seeing" was excellent. As far
as I have been able to ascertain conditions of observation were
better at Goldendale than in any other station in the United
States.
Dr. W. W. Campbell, Director of Lick Observatory, has kindly permitted
the use of the eclipse pictures with this article. The original negatives are
exceptionally fine, but it has been impossible to faithfully reproduce the delicate
structure of the corona. Acknowledgment of the pictures is also made under
each plate. — Editor.
266 The Total Eclipse of the Sun
It is my purpose in this article to treat of the eclipse in a
non-technical manner, without burdening the reader with ab-
struse scientific figures and formulae, which, however inter-
esting they may be to an astronomer, have no place in a work
of this kind.
By virtue of the relative positions and motions of the sun,
the earth and the moon, it sometimes happens that the moon in-
terposes itself between the sun and the earth, thereby shutting
off the light of the sun for a time and causing a total solar
eclipse, and again, occasionally the earth is placed between the
sun and the moon, which position results in an eclipse of the
moon. Eclipses of the sun occur much more frequently in the
main, than eclipses of the moon, but at any given point on the
earth lunar eclipses take place a greater number of times than
eclipses of the sun. This apparent anomaly is easily explained ;
the moon shines by reflected light only, the light coming, of
course from the sun. Therefore when, as in a lunar eclipse, the
earth cuts off the light from the sun the moon is darkened and
so appears to that entire hemisphere of the earth which is at
that time toward it. On the other hand the shadow of the moon
as projected on the surface of the earth in a total solar eclipse is
much smaller in area than the earth itself, being on the average
70 or 80 miles in diameter. Thus it will be seen that in a solar
eclipse the path of totality is only 70 or 80 miles wide, and it is
only in this path that the beauties of a total eclipse can be seen,
the eclipse being partial outside of the path. The line of totality
does not follow the same track at every eclipse, but may appear
in any part of the world, and as a general thing we may say that
a total solar eclipse will re-occur at a given locality only after
an interval of some 250 years.
The writer was not a member of the Lick Observatory Ex-
pedition, but was accompanied to Goldendale by Professor E. B.
Van Osdel, Director of the Observatory of McMinnville College ;
Charles Butterworth, of Portland, a photographer interested for
many years in astronomical photography, and Howard J. Tur-
ner, an instrument maker, the builder of one of the telescopes
used by the party.
Our purposes were to study the inner corona, to keep an
accurate record of the temperature, and to note any deflection
of the magnetic needle. Professor Sydney D. Townley, of Le-
By Permission of Lick Observatory.
Exposure 1-3 of a second, made at the third second of totality. The
short exposure exhibits the prominences but does not show the corona to
any great extent. The above photograph was taken with the 40 foot
camera shown in another picture accompanying- this article. The promi-
nence on the southeast limit of the sun is about 40,000 miles high.
By Permission of Lick Observatory.
Exposure 1 m. 52 s. — This picture was taken with one of the 15 foot
cameras and the exposure was purposely of long duration, in order that the
full extent of the corona might be shown. Owing to the great length of
the exposure the prominences are blotted out, and while the corona seemed
to the eye to extend further, the above picture is a good representation of
the eclipsed sun as the same appeared to the naked eye.
The Total Eclipse of the Sun 267
land Stanford Jr. University, established his station at Baker,
Oregon, and we co-operated with him in the study of the inner
corona.
We selected a site about a mile southwest of the City of
Goldendale on the top of a hill, and perhaps 1000 feet west of
the Lick Observatory Station. Our location gave us a clear view
of the horizon in all directions, with an occasional panorama to
the northwest, with Mt. Adams in the distance. In locating the
station this was a controlling factor, because the shadow of the
moon approached us from the northwest and we wished to see
this feature, and as it happened our hopes were fully realized
as we shall show hereafter.
A word or two about our instruments might not be out of
place. We brought with us a well mounted refracting telescope
of 4 inch aperture, equipped with proper eye-pieces for viewing
the sun, and a diagonal attachment which enabled observations
to be made in a comfortable position. We had also a refracting
telescope of 9 inch aperture, built on the Newtonian plan by Mr.
Turner. This instrument was completed only a few days before
the eclipse and adjustments had to be made after we reached the
ground, but these were satisfactorily attended to and the teles-
cope gave excellent definition. For the temperature readings
we used a centigrade thermometer, which read to a quarter
of one degree, and in addition to the above we possessed a stand-
ard compass equipped with a hairline sight and vernier, gradu-
ated to one-half of one degree, but with care the same could be
read to one-fourth of one degree. A temporary thermometer
shelter was arranged and readings were commenced at noon and
taken every fifteen minutes until 1 :30 P. M., and from then on
every five minutes until the eclipse was over. During the ten
minutes before and after totality, readings were taken every
two minutes.
Before proceeding to further discussion of the eclipse I feel
it might be wise to acquaint the reader with the nature of the
corona. The corona is virtually the outer atmosphere of the sun,
and is composed mainly of a very finely attenuated gas ; probably
lighter than hydrogen. The gas is apparently an element un-
known upon the earth and astronomers have given it the name
of coronium. The corona completely surrounds the sun and ex-
tends many thousands of miles in all directions, but that part of
268 The Total Eclipse of the Sun
the corona which originates near the equatorial regions of the
sun extends into space a much greater distance than that which
starts from the poles. The corona is only visible at the time of a
total eclipse, as the light of the main body of the sun is so brilliant
that no instrument has ever been devised with which to reduce
this light and thus render the corona visible. It is for this reason
that observatories send expeditions to all parts of the world to
view the eclipses and to study the corona.
The members of our party and all persons in the region of
Goldendale will long remember the day of the eclipse. At 2
o'clock on the morning of the 8th, the sky was clear, but later on
clouds completely covered the sky; however, at 10 o'clock in the
morning things began to look favorable and the sun broke
through the clouds from time to time. That was all; and at 1
o'clock our record shows that the sun was covered with thin
clouds and the possibility of seeing the eclipse seemed very,
very slight, indeed. In fact the sky was practically overcast
with the exception that a small break occurred in the clouds in
the region of the sun about a minute before totality. Strange to
say, the rift in the clouds that gave us the viewr of the eclipse
closed within two minutes after totality was over. It was as if
a celestial drama were being played. The curtain rose ; gave us
a glimpse of the actors and fell again after the climax — but it
was sufficient. The small region of unclouded sky surrounding
the eclipsed sun was absolutely clear; the air was steady and
the "seeing" was perfect.
The second contact, or beginning of totality, was due at 2 : 57
Goldendale mean time, or 3 :57 summer time, which is one hour
in advance of the old standard time.
At noon the temperature stood at 33.2 degrees C., and at
2:48, the beginning of the eclipse or first contact, was 35 de-
grees C. At 3:50 the temperature had dropped to 27.7 degrees
C., and at the beginning of totality was 26 degrees C, and so re-
mained during totality. At 4:02, approximately two minutes
after totality, the temperature was 25.5 degrees C., or in other
words, at two minutes after totality the temperature was 1-2 de-
gree C. lower than during totality, which is equivalent to .9 de-
grees on the Fahrenheit scale.
The instruments were all adjusted and arranged at noon,
and the observers waited for the first contact, meanwhile specu-
The Total Eclipse of the Sun 269
lating whether the eclipse could be seen at all, owing to the
thick clouds. The first contact was not observed as the sun was
behind a dark cloud, and when next seen the moon had already
encroached upon the face of the sun and the eclipse had started.
At 3 o'clock it was manifestly growing cooler, and at 3 : 30 it
seemed quite chilly in comparison with the high temperature an
hour before. About this time the moon was well on the sun and
soon the quality of the light from the sun was very much altered.
The light from the calcium vapors of the sun became predomi-
nant, and was of a sickly yellow, and growing decidedly darker
every moment. Everything in the landscape took on a most un-
earthly hue and even at that time it was clear to the most unob-
servant that something out of the ordinary was taking place.
During the morning and early afternoon the birds had been
flittering about the station and singing joyously, but when the
light became peculiar and as it grew darker their singing was
strangely hushed and everything was quiet. The birds no longer
flew about but sought the low lying brush and a few less fearful
than the rest perched on the nearby telephone wires, remained
quiet, and in their minds, no doubt, were preparing for the im-
pending night. There was a farmhouse and a barn at the foot of
the hill, and we noted that the chickens went into the chicken
house and that several cows came up to the barn from the pas-
ture. In general the effect was of approaching twilight, but
such a twilight as can only come from a solar eclipse.
Gradually the darkness became more and more intense and
the temperature continued to fall, a sort of phantom breeze stir-
red the air ever so slightly and above all a perfect stillness set-
tled down on the earth. Even the observers were affected. One
could not speak in the presence of this great demonstration of
Nature.
Brilliant shades of red and purple illuminated the clouds
on the northwest horizon towards Mt. Hood. The ever dimin-
ishing light of the sun competed with the gorgeous colors around
the horizon, producing a most unearthly and supernatural effect,
and yet this was merely the overture preceding that which was
to come. The darkness became quite intense, so dark in fact that
the observers could scarcely see to write on their charts. As we
watched toward the northwest Mt. Adams was suddenly blotted
from our sight. The advancing shadow of the moon effaced
270 The Total Eclipse of the Sun
the mountain as completely as if it had never been there. Then
with terrifying swiftness it advanced upon us and suddenly, in
the twinkling of an eye, it had come, and totality had commenced.
The writer was at the eye-piece of the four-inch refractor,
and suddenly the clouds cleared away, giving a beautiful field.
The moon had nearly obscured the sun and the remaining cres-
cent of light, through bright in the telescope, was vanishing
rapidly. Soon two brilliant red prominences of hydrogen gas
burst into view on the west limb of the sun from behind the dark
moon. These prominences of glowing gas thrown out by the sun
in tremendous eruption contrasted strangely with the black
moon and the now feeble light of the crescent sun. Suddenly, it
seemed that the moon covered the sun save for a row of lights on
the east limb — "Bailey's Beads" as these are called — caused by
the sunlight streaming between the mountains on the edge of
the moon. Just as suddenly the glorious corona burst into
view. All that had gone before was for the moment forgotten.
At least in a perfect sky we had seen the corona. It completely
surrounded the eclipsed sun but not in a uniform manner. Long
streamers extended from the east and west limbs to a distance of
nearly two solar diameters. There it shone with a soft pearly
light, nearly lavender, nearly purple, and yet withal a beautiful
green, through which the other colors played and strove for pre-
dominance. Nearer the eclipsed sun the flaming red promi-
nences cast their glow through it all — indescribable, magnifi-
cent, superb. Can we blame the ancients for worshipping the
sun, or can we ridicule their superstitious fears of an eclipse?
In the presence of such a spectacle man can only watch. It is
impossible to describe — words cannot properly tell the story of
the eclipse.
But for us no time was to be lost. Drawings, measurements,
readings and scientific notes had to be made. The program
moved without hitch, the observers performed their duties faith-
fully, and matters were so arranged that during the one minute
and fifty-seven seconds of totality every member of our party
had the opportunity to look through each instrument and make
measurements and at least two drawings. Before totality was
over the writer was back at the four-inch refractor, and alto-
gether twelve drawings were made and thirty-five measure-
:->;pri
ips
•••••••••••••••BHBi
Above — General view of Lick Observatory Station, showing- the 40 foot camera
the spectrographs and the 15 foot Vulcan and Enistein cameras.
Below — Portion of the writer's station, showing the 9 inch reflector in the
background, left; the 4 inch reflector in the background, center; the 4 inch re-
flector in the foreground. The thermometer shelter and compass stand are
not shown.
The Total Eclipse of the Sun 271
merits were taken during the two short minutes while the moon
completely covered the sun.
All too soon the moon crept from the face of the sun and
the crescent of the sun, ever so thin, reappeared, this time, how-
ever, on the west limb. The corona vanished, the total phase
was over. For about two minutes the brighter prominences re-
mained visible, but these, too, shortly faded away.
Directly clouds again covered the sun and as there seemed
no chance of observing the fourth and last contact (the moment
when the moon entirely leaves the sun) we set about our task
of dismantling the instruments, preparatory to our return.
On the evening of the same day, while waiting at Maryhill,
Washington, for a train, we chanced to set up the four-inch re-
fractor and while sweeping the southern sky we observed the
now famous new star in the constellation Aquilla.
The star was first seen by us at 11 :04 P. M., new summer
time, on the evening of June 8th. Its stellar character was at
once apparent in the instrument, and although we had no star
charts with us, we felt sure that the star was a new one, and so
it proved upon examination of the charts next morning upon
our return to Portland.
In conclusion let me say a word about the total solar eclipses
in the near future. On May 29th, of next year, there will be a
total eclipse of the sun in which the total phase will last six
minutes and fifty seconds, as against the Goldendale eclipse of
one minute and fifty-seven seconds. This eclipse will be visible
in South America, Chile, Bolivia and Brazil.
A total eclipse on October 1st, 1921, will occur in the Ant-
arctic regions and will probably not be observed.
The northern part of Australia will be favored with a total
eclipse on September 21st, 1922.
A total eclipse will occur on September 10th, 1923, which
will probably be widely observed. It was thought that the path
of totality would cross the United States, entering the continent
at about the center of the California coast line, but this appears
to be incorrect and later calculations indicate that the shade of
totality will be across the peninsula of lower California. In any
event, however, the line of totality should be easily accessible
and weather conditions at that time of the year should be ex-
cellent. The duration of this eclipse will be nearly four minutes*
272 The Total Eclipse of the Sun
On January 24th, 1925, a total solar eclipse will be visible in
the northeast part of the United States during the early fore-
noon, but I am not now aware of the exact location of the path
of the shadow.
Finally, the writer desires to acknowledge the privilege af-
forded him of the opportunity to recount the phenomena of the
recent eclipse, and if he shall have been able by this means to
excite in anyone an interest in astronomy and a desire to know
more of the subject, he shall feel something more than grateful.
The Mazamas observed the total eclipse from many points
of advantage. The Educational Committee arranged an excur-
sion to Hood River, which was largely attended. The party went
by train and were entertained by the Hood River people who
furnished two hundred automobiles for a sight-seeing trip
through the famous Hood River Valley. After luncheon the
party viewed the eclipse from an elevation near the city. The
weather conditions were about the same as those described in
the proceeding article, although being nearer the edge of the
shadow zone the duration of totality lasted only thirty-one
seconds. All reported seeing the beautiful corona effects and
described the phenomenae as wonderful.
Several motored to Cascade Locks and others climbed Mt.
Defiance where only a momentary view was had, these places
being on the edge of the shadow zone. A few went to Winlock,
a small town south of Chehalis. This place was right in the
center of the shadow zone and the weather conditions, usually
uncertain, turned out to be nearly as good as at other places.
Trips to the summits of St. Helens and Adams were considered,
but owing to road conditions it was impossible to get into Spirit
Lake at the base of the former and dangerous ice and snow con-
ditions on the latter mountain led the Committee to advise
against making the ascents. — Editor.
Address of the Retiring President
FELLOW MEMBERS :
Agreeable to custom and propriety as your presiding re-
tiring, I give a brief review of the activities of the concluding
year, with such suggestions as may grow out of my brief exper-
iences as such.
The energies and activities of our country have been given
over exclusively and universally to the prosecution of the world's
war in which our own country has become the chief factor.
Pleasure seeking and social affairs have given place to the stern
realities of overcoming our country's enemies. Each month has
seen new recruits for the army, the navy, or some other war ser-
vice added from our membership. Already there are seventy-
two stars in the Mazama Service Flag in evidence of our part in
the war. No star as yet has been turned to gold. A token that
every star represents a man who has offered, and may even yet
give his life in freedom's cause.
In a small way our organization is participating to uphold
the hands of our representatives in the field of honor by paying
the dues of our absent members and keeping alive their mem-
berships, even as we cherish their memory and appreciate their
supreme offer of sacrifice for our homes and firesides. Would
that we might do more. We could not do less.
The organization has yielded up its club rooms for the La-
dies Contingency of the Liberty Loan drives, the Third and
Fourth ; an entertainment was given at the Little Theater during
the year, all parts were taken by the Mazamas. The theater
was "sold out" a week before the performance. The talent dis-
played equaled that of any camp fire performance. The receipts
were donated to the Red Cross fund. The Club has also pur-
chased five one hundred dollar Liberty Bonds.
The social life of our Club has suffered naturally and prop-
erly because of the sadness and gloom that prevades our land.
Herbert Spencer has said: "A look through a powerful teles-
cope will prove to anyone that his own heart beat shakes the
building in which he stands." So the recoil of cannon, the burst-
ing of shells, the cries of onslaught and of the wounded set
vibrating loyal hearts throughout Christendom, and shall we find
274 Address of the Retiring President
time or have inclination for social pleasure? Yet the Sunday
local walks have been kept up with the usual regularity.
The two weeks annual outing in the Wallowa Mountains
was thoroughly enjoyed by all and was a financial success which
speaks well for those managing the finances of the outing.
To the three hundred and sixty-six members, we have added
eighty-four new ones, one of these being a life member. While
I regret to relate that some forty members have been dropped
from the roll for non-payment of dues, while fifteen have with-
drawn temporarily to renew their membership perhaps, again,
when conditions change. These are abnormal times. The unusual
is happening daily and we are not chagrined at this apparent
lapse. When the war ends and the white-winged angel of peace
hovers over stricken battlefields, then will our organization take
on new and added life.
Our Library Committee has found time to do splendid work.
They have catalogued and numbered the books and magazines
of the Mazama headquarters and have added a number of good
volumes. This was done as an approach to the fulfillment of the
recommendation of the retiring president of last year. It has
been thought not feasible to carry out recommendations then
made as to securing a lodge "somewhere in the mountains," but
recognizing the importance of that recommendation, I reincor-
porate the same — to be carried out as soon as conditions have
become normal again after the war.
On the 19th of July, 1918, the organization reached its
twenty-fifth birthday. A quarter of a century of life has been
ours. Founded on a lofty purpose, with clean and wholesome
aims, the organization lives on, and may it persist in opening up
to the people of our state the latent beauties of mountain, forest
and stream, otherwise hidden from view. Like the aerial squad-
ron that serves as eyes to the contending army of the allies, so
the mountain climbing contingent will long serve the state in
revealing the hidden treasures of the frontier of discovery to a
people who live in a land whose beauties, though transcendant,
are unseen.
For the splendid aid of officers and members of the asso-
ciation I extend my thanks and my gratitude and bespeak for my
successor your zealous intelligent and sympathetic co-operation.
Report of Local Walks Committee
By A. BOYD WILLIAMS
The local walks for the Mazama year 1917-1918, were very
successful, when taking into consideration the war conditions
which called so many of our active hikers away. The total
attendance on the fifty-one trips was 2580, making an average
of about 51.
The trips to Aschoff's Mountain Resort, of which there
were three, proved the most popular. The annual Mt. Hood
outing was also very successful, 107 out of 125 persons that
started reaching the summit.
The annual boat picnic had to be called off on account of
the prohibitive boat prices. The Labor Day trip also had to be
changed at the last minute.
The following is a complete list of local walks taken during
the year:
Date Time Places Visited Leader Attendance
1917
Oct. 7 1 Day Rocky Point— Logie Trail S. M. Fries 53
Oct. 14 1 V-i Days Battleground Lake (Sue MacCready )
(Bertha Marshall ) 30
Oct. 21 1 Day Devil's Rest — Angel's Rest... Anne Dillinger 42
Oct. 2S 1 Day Beacon Rock V. L. Ketchum 66
Nov. 4 1 Day Council Crest — Beaverton Guy Thatcher 32
Nov. 11 V* Day Palatine Hill — Terwilliger Blvd Georgene Case 47
Nov. 18 y* Day Alameda— Mt. Tabor Park Louise Vial 49
Nov. 25 y-2. Day Willamette Blvd. —
Columbia Blvd W. P. Hardesty 51
Dec. 2 l/i Day Barr Butte Geraldine Coursen ... 23
Dec. 9 y* Day Cornell Road — Kings Heights. Vera E. Taylor 36
Dec. 16 1 Day Dundee — Mistletoe Trip Harry L. Wolbers 40
Dec. 23 y* Day Shattuck Road — Canyon Road. Reta Sammons 33
Dec 29-30 iy2 Days Aschoff's Mountain Resort ... Local Walks Com 68
1918
Jan. 6 y3 Day Fulton — Oswego Geo Meredith 25
Jan. 12-13 ll/2 Days Larch Mountain (Jay Bush )
(Roy Ayer )150
Jan. 20 y2 Day Skyline Trail — Meredian
Monument — Blasted Butte . . . John Lee 53
Jan. 27 */2 Day Sylvan — Humphrey Blvd Clarence Hogan 59
Feb. 3 J4 Day "Mystery Trip" Committee of Five 48
Feb. 10 1 Day Columbia Highway Kan Smith 62
Feb. 17 */2 Day Kelly Butte— Gates Harold Babb 36
Feb. 24 y^ Day Council Crest Dr. Wm. F. Amos ... 49
Mar. 3 1 Day Oregon City — Coalca Pillar ... A, F. Parker 29
Mar. 10 y-2 Day Gilbert Station — St. Johns . . . S. M. Fries 7
Mar. 17 y* Day Mt. View — Tualatin Mrs. A. B. Williams.. 10
Mar. 24 y* Day Vancouver Barracks Sue MacCready 43
Mar 30 y* Day Milwaukee Station C. B. Woodworth .... 27
Apr. 7 1 Day Oregon City — Clackamas River Margaret Griffin 59
Apr. 14 1 Dav Vancouver Lake — Fruit Valley. (Augustus High )
(Mrs. Ira Harper ) 35
Apr. 21 1 Day Moffett Creek Falls H. H. Riddell 30
Apr 28 1 y-t Days Aschoff's — Sandy River Local Walks Com 105
May 5 1 Day Eagle Creek A. F. Parker 137
May 12 1 Day Parrott Mountain (C. B. Woodworth )
( J. A. Ormandy ) 61
May 19 1 Day Connell — Tunnel Spur W. P. Hardesty 64
276
Report of Local Walks Committee
May 22
Day
May 25-26 \Vt Days
June 1 -2 \l/3 Days
June 8- 9 1# Days
June 15-16 1# Days
June 19
June 23
June 30
July 4 1
July 7 1
Aug. 10-11 1
Aug. 18 1
1 Day
1 Day
1 Day
1 Day
Days
Day
Aug. 24
Aug. 25
Aug. 31
Sept. 2
Day
Days
Sept. 7- 8 I'/S Days
Sept. 14-15 \y>. Days
Sept. 22 y3 Day
Sept. 29 1 Day
Moonlight Walk, Washington.
Park — Arlington Heights
Scappoose — Chapman Station .
Mt. Defiance
North Plains — Rocky Point . .
Gales Creek — Round Top Mt.
Mary Gene Smith . . 55
Geo. Meredith 46
E. P. Peterson 36
Carl Sakrison 59
(Agnes G. Lawson . . . . )
Oct. 6
Day
(Vera E. Taylor ) 17
Moonlight Walk, Marquam Hill Mary L. Knapp 48
Twin Mountain Roy W. Ayer 15
Hamilton Mountain Rodney L. Glisan 47
Dowling Farm Mr. and Mrs. Dowling 30
Cazadero — Eagle Creek Frank Redman 57
Annual Mt. Hood Outing Local Walks Com. . . 130
Willamette Valley —
Beaver Creek E. H. Dowling 25
Annual Outing Reunion,
Mountain View Outing Committee 64
Sauvies Island J. H. Clark 15
Dowling Farm Mr. and Mrs. Dowling. 30
Vancouver — Mt. Pleasant (August High )
(Mrs. Ira Harper ) 13
Aschoff s Mountain Resort . . . Geo. Meredith 88
Whitwood Court — St. Johns .. Cinita Nunan 48
Vancouver — Sif ton (Misses Sue and )
(Alda MacCready ) 43
St. Johns — Union Stock Yards. Lola Creighton 55
Local Walks Committee Financial Report
RECEIPTS
Amount collected on local walks $133.99
Profit from Mt. Hood outing „ 93.00
Total $226.99
EXPENDITURES
Expenditures $151.13
Balance on hand ~ $ 75.86
Report of Certified Public Accountant who Examined the
Financial Affairs of the Mazamas
INCOME AND PROFIT AND LOSS ACCOUNT
For the Period September 29, 1917 to October 7, 1918
INCOME :
Members' Dues $1,137.00
Life Membership 50.00
1,187.00
MISCELLANEOUS :
Interest on Liberty Bonds $ 22.92
Badges, Keys and Magazines Sold 9.15
Chairs Sold 18.00
Stationery .80 50.87
$1,237.87
Loss IN COMMITTEES' TRANSACTIONS:
LESS
LOSSES :
Magazine Publication $ 366.66
PROFITS :
Mt. Hood Outing $93.48
Local Walks 73.26 $ 166.74 $ 199.92
Gross Income $1,037.95
EXPENSES :
Club Room Rent 420.00
Telephone Rent and Tolls 64.50
Printing and Stationery — General 359.45
Entertainment Expenses 20.35
Lecture Expense 5.75
Associated Clubs Dues 15.00
Insurance 7.15
Sundries . 96.84 989.04
NET INCOME $ 48.91
ANNUAL OUTING OF 1918 :
Income $1,183.28
Expenses $1,183.28
Balance Sheet
As at October 7, 1918.
ASSETS
United States National Bank— General Fund $1,092.26
United States Liberty Bonds 500.00
Bond Interest Receivable 6.67
Club Room Furniture and Camp Equipment 900.00
$2,498.93
LIABILITIES
Surplus .. ...$2,498.93
$2,498.93
Portland, Oregon, October 15, 1918.
To the Members of
THE MAZAMA COUNCIL,
Portland, Oregon.
DEAR SIRS:
In accordance with your instructions I have audited the accounts of the
Mazamas for the fiscal year ended October 7, 1918, and present herewith my
report. The accompanying Income and Profit & Loss Account shows the
transactions for the period under review, which resulted in a profit of $48.91,
and the Balance Sheet reflects the financial condition of the Club as at
October 7, 1918.
I reconciled the funds in the custody of the Treasurer with the bank
statement, and received a certificate from the bank verifying the balance.
The various invoices, cancelled checks and statements and accounts of
the Treasurer and the several committees were examined and found to
be in order.
Yours truly,
ROBERT F. RISELING,
Certified Public Accountant.
Roll of Honor
CHARLES E. ATLAS,
Second Lieutenant, U. S. Air Service,
279 Aero Squadron,
American Expeditionary Forces.
FRANK S. BAGLEY,
66th Aero Squadron,
American Expeditionary Forces.
BYRON J. BEATTIE,
Naval Operating Base, Reserve Officers' School,
Hampton Roads, Virginia.
LEE BENEDICT,
Co. F, 12th Infantry,
Camp Fremont, California.
ROSCOE G. BIGGS,
Receiving Ship, Puget Sound, Washington.
CLEM E, BLARNEY,
659th Aero Squadron,
American Expeditionary Forces.
W. E. BODWAY,
Yeoman, 55 Vittoris Emmanuel III,
care Postmaster, New York, N. Y.
GUSTAVE BROCKMAN,
Co. G, 13th Infantry,
Campi Fremont, California.
ALBERT S. BROWN,
Camp Taylor, Kentucky.
DAVID CAMPBELL,
Camp Hancock, Ga.
GEORGENE M. CASE,
Base Hospital, Camp Lewis, Washington.
K. P. CECIL,
First Lieutenant, 65th Artillery, C. A. C.,
American Expeditionary Forces.
WALTER E. CHURCH,
Corporal, Hdqrs. 2nd Bat., 65th Artillery, C. A. C.
American Expeditionary Forces.
ARTHUR M, CHURCHILL,
Camp Taylor, Kentucky.
WILLIAM D. CLARK,
M. S. E. 404th Squadron, A. S. S. C.,
Vancouver Barracks, Washington.
ARTHUR COOK,
Sargeant, Headquarter^ 37th Engineers,
Fort Myer, Virginia.
D. J. CONWAY,
153d Aero Squadron, American Air Service,
American Expeditionary Forces.
RAYMOND T. CONWAY,
Corporal, Co. L, 157 Infantry, 40th Division,
American Expeditionary Forces.
NELSON ENGLISH,
37th Engineers, 1st Battalion Headquarters,
American Expeditionary Forces.
W. W. EVANS,
Corporal, Q. M. Warehouse No. 1, American P. O. 727,
American Expeditionary Forces.
J. N. FLESHER,
2nd Division, First Battalion,
166th Depot Brigade,
Camp Lewis, Washington.
W. P. FORMAN,
Corporal, Co. B, 158th Inf., American P. O. 729,
American Expeditionary Forces.
FORREST L. FOSTER,
Sergeant, M. P. E. S., American P. O. 729,
American Expeditionary Forces.
HERBERT J. FOSTER
Co. D, 117th Engineers,
American Expeditionary Forces.
GEORGE GARRETT
A. C. S. Engineers' Section, American P. O. 714,
American Expeditionary Forces.
A. H. S. HAFFENDEN,
Second Lieutenant, F. A, N. A., American P. O. 710,
American Expeditionary Forces.
E. R. HAWKINS,
Lieutenant, Ordnance Supply Depot,
Springfield, Mass.
CHAS. S. HELFRICH,
105 Spruce Squadron, Portland, Oregon.
E. G. HENRY,
2nd Lieut., Barracks 2, Park Field, Memphis, Tenn.
CLARENCE HOGAN,
Co. B, 2d A, A. P..
Fort MacArthur, California,
RALPH S. IVEY,
5th Co., Casualty Detachment, 41st Division,
Camp Hill, Newport-News, Virginia.
HENRY G. JOHNSON,
Lieutenant, care Balloon School, Fort Omaha, Neb.
F. G. KASH,
Sergeant, 8th Company, Oregon Coast Artillery,
Fort Stevens, Oregon.
EMMA B. KERN,
R. N. A. N. C., U. S. A., Base Hospital No. 46,
American Expeditionary Forces.
HENRY A. LADD,
U. S. A, Base Hospital, Unit No. 46,
American Expeditionary Forces.
ELMER LERDELL,
Vancouver Barracks, Washington.
F. P. LUETTERS,
Co. C, 147th Infantry, American P. O. 763,
American Expeditionary Forces.
W. T. LUND,
116th Engineers' Detachment, U. S. P. S. 701,
American Expeditionary Forces.
DR. J. W. McCOLLOM,
Lieut., 1st U. S. Infantry, Camp Lewis, Wash.
F. H. McNEILL,
War Risk Section, American P. O. 717,
American Expeditionary Forces.
J. D. MEREDITH,
U. S. A. Base Hospital, Unit No. 46,
American Expeditionary Forces.
S. MILES,
437th Engineers' Depot Detachment,
Washington, D. C.
JESSE MILLER,
U. S. S. South Dakota, care Postmaster, New York, N. Y.
ALAN BROOKS MORKILL,
Lieutenant, 7th Battalion,
Canadian Expeditionary Forces.
JOHN F. NALLY,
Corporal 19th Spruce Squadron, B. A. T.,
Vancouver Barracks, Washington.
B. W. NEWELL,
Sergeant, 65th Field Artillery, C. A. C., care Supply Co.,
American Expeditionary Forces.
W. D. PEASLEE,
Captain, 537th Engineers,
Camp Travis, San Antonio, Texas.
ALFRED F. PARKER,
Receiving Ship, Puget Sound, Washington.
P. G. PAYTON,
338 Aero Service Squadron,
American Expeditionary Forces.
ARTHUR D. PLATT,
First Student Co., S. O. T. C.,
Camp Mead, Maryland.
GEORGE X. RIDDELL,
Captain, Co. 7, E. O. T. C.,
American Expeditionary Forces.
CECIL V. REDDEN,
Sergeant, 8th Spruce Squadron,
Vancouver Barracks, Washington.
STANLEY C. RICHMOND,
8tlh Squadron, S. P. D., B. A. P.,
Vancouver Barracks, Washington.
C. H. SAKRISON,
Co. H, 76th Infantry, Camp Lewis, Washington.
E. C. SAMMONS,
Lieut.-Colonel, 137th Infantry,
American Expeditionary Forces.
ALFRED C. SHELTON,
Base Hospital, Camp Lewis, Washington.
DR. J. DUNCAN SPAETH,
Camp Jackson.
GEO. A. STTJDER,
Co. F, 12th Infantry,
Camp Fremont, California.
J. MONROE THORINGTON,
American Ambulance Corps,
2031 Chestnut St., Philadelphia, Pa.
F. P. UPSHAW,
Ensign, U. S. Naval Training Camp, Seattle, Wash.
D. VAN ZANDT,
Corporal 157th Aero Squadron.
WM. S. WALTER,
Lieut., American Expeditionary Forces.
B. F. WENNER,
Vancouver Barracks, Washington.
RONALD M. WILSON,
.Second Lieut., care Rev. Wilson, Dover, Mass.
MARY WING,
General Delivery, Bremerton, Washington.
HARRY L. WOLBERS,
Corporal, Co. C, 322d Field Signal Battalion,
American Expeditionary Farces.
JOHN S. WARD,
Co. 1, S. O. T. S., Camp Meigs, Washington, D. C.,
S. M. C.
Y. M. C. A. WORKERS
R, H. ATKINSON,
care Y. M. C. A., Camp Lewis, Wash.
ROBERT D. SEARCY,
Paris, France.
LINN L. REIST,
1322 Bryant Ave., North,
Minneapolis, Minnesota.
Y. M. C. A. CANTEEN WORKERS
ENID C. ALLEN,
12 Rue d'Agguesseau, Paris, France.
EVA BRUNELL,
LAURA HATCH,
12 Rue d'Agguesseau, Paris, France.
MARY C. HENTHORNE,
12 Rue d'Agguesseau, Paris, France.
MARY C. JACOBS,
RED CROSS WORKERS
JESSIE RAY NOTTINGHAM,
Barnard Unit American Red Cross,
No. 4 Rue De 1'Elysee, Paris, France.
MRS. M. R. PARSONS,
Hotel de Richelieu,
Mont de Marsam, Landef, France.
Book Reviews
Edited By MINNIE R. HEATH.
"SUNSET Early historical events, including the life and customs of the
CANADA." aborigines and possessions of a vast domain, by the
Hudson Bay Company, are described in an interesting
style by Archie Bell, author of "Sunset Canada."
Several chapters are devoted to the principal industries, such as min-
ing, lumbering, fishing, agriculture and a description of the larger indus-
trials centers, giving an idea of the potential wealth and future possibilities
of Western Canada.
The volume is valuable for its general information, but its strongest
appeal will be to the prospective tourist and all lovers of the "out of doors."
Many of the illustrations could well be classed as works of art, and the
descriptions of the numerous scenic points, of which British Columbia and
the Canadian Rockies are justly famous, were written by a true lover of the
mountains.
Taken throughout the book is well worth while and will prove a valuable
addition to the "See America First Series."
W. W. ROSS.
BELL, ARCHIE. Sunset Canada, British Columbia and Beyond. 1918. The
Page Company, Boston. $3.50 net.
"ON THE HEADWATERS Paul Leland Haworth is a man whom it has
OP PEACE RIVER" been impossible to extinguish by years of
super-civilization, the instinctive lure of the
primitive and desire to penetrate the unknown. A student, author and
teacher by training and environment, he has chosen for a time to pen-
etrate with one companion, "a region beyond the farthest campfire and the
last tin can." He has given us, in his book, the story of this trip, by canoe
and packsack, into one of the few remaining unexplored regions of our
continent.
The titling of the book, "On the Headwaters of Peace River," indicates
the scope of his trip. The Peace River is formed by the Junction, in north-
ern British Columbia, of the Parsnip River and the Finlay. The Parsnip is
a well known stream, having been used as a highway for years by trader,
trapper and prospector. The course of the Finlay, too, is fairly well known
on its lower reaches. The Upper river, however, as well as some of its
branches, notably the Quadacha and the Fox, and the territory drained by
these streams, is practically unknown. It is this unknown region that the
author intended to explore when he set out by canoe from the head of
the Parsnip River.
Down the Parsnip they progressed with little effort, paddling leisurely
along in quiet reaches and running swiftly down its "wagon roads" as the
cleared channels in the rapids were locally termed. At Finlay Forks, the
juncture of the Parsnip and the Finlay, the character of their trip changed.
284 Book Reviews
Up the Finlay their progress was necessarily slow. Poling and lining the
canoe up the stream, which was too swift for the use of paddles, jeopardiz-
ing both canoe and contents in many dangerous traverses, they fought their
way steadily up to the mouth of the Quadacha.
Here canoe and outfit were cached, and burdened with packs and armed
with rifle and camera, they set out afoot to explore the Quadacha country.
The extent of this trip was limited by their failure to find game on which
they had depended for a part of their subsistence. For this reason ^hey
were turned back before reaching the three-peaked mountain and the great
glacier in which the Quadacha originates. Later the mountain and glacier
were observed from a peak they ascended on their return to the cache.
Thus was settled between the two pioneers the often discussed question,
"What makes the Quadacha white?"
Returning to the cache they proceeded somewhat farther up the Finlay
and again left the canoe and set out with heavy packs, following the range
that forms one wall of the Fox River valley. After following this course for
some distance they crossed the range and were again in the Valley of the
Finlay in a district in which they hoped to find game. In this hope they
were not disappointed and spent several days in hunting and exploration.
The return to their canoe was made by raft down the long canyon, as this
portion of the Finlay is known.
The final stage of their journey is here begun in the descent of the
Finlay and Peace Rivers. At Hudson's Hope, on the Peace, they disposed
of the canoe and completed the trip by gasoline launch to the railroad.
The trip thus briefly outlined, was rich in the variety and extent of its
experiences. The book is equally rich in the material it offers the reader.
To the angler, the big game hunter and the canoeist it will equally
appeal as well as to those interested from a technical standpoint in the dis-
tribution of animal life and origin of species. The native Indians or "Si-
wash" were everywhere observed and their customs and habits frequently
commented upon. It is full of well chosen anecdotes, illustrating the
quality of the pioneers in the less remote regions. The possibilities of the
country for future development and settlement is given thorough consider-
ation. In common with every new country this region has witnessed the
rise and fall of its boom town. This is especially true along the newly com-
pleted Grand Trunk Pacific, by which the author reached the starting point
of his trip. These towns and the various factors which controlled their
rise and fall, are vividly pictured by the author.
For us, interested as we are in the mountaineering possibilities afforded
by the region, the book presents a view of unclimbed peaks, unexplored
glaciers and vast ranges of mountains, that make us long for the opportun-
ity to follow the trail of the author into this wonderful country.
HAROLD S. BABB.
HAWORTH, PAUL LELAND, "On the Headwaters of Peace River." Charles
Scribner's Sons., N. Y. 1917.
"THE MELODY An Anthology of Garden and Nature Poems from pres-
OF EARTH" ent day poets, selected and arranged by Mrs. Waldo
Richards, contains poems by 182 singers, who have
listened and caught the harmony of nature. The poems are arranged itn
Book Revieivs 285
twelve groups, under appropriate titles, beginning with "Within Garden
Walls," and ending with "The Garden of Life," and among the poets repre-
sented are Bliss Carman, Josephine Peahody, Yeats, Angela Morgan, Edwin
Markham, Clinton Scollard, Richard Burton, James Whitcomb Riley, Ramin-
dranath Tagore and James Wheelock, who sings in "Earth."
"All we say and all we sing
Is but as the murmuring
Of that drowsy heart of hers
When from her deep dream she stirs:
If we sorrow, or rejoice,
You and I are but her voice."
CHRISTINE N. MORGAN.
RICHARDS, MRS. WALDO. "The Melody of Earth." Houghton-Mifflin Co.
"THE CRUISE The author's own journal of the Arctic Expedition
OF THE CORWIN" sent out by the U. S. Government to seek the Jean-
nette and missing whalers lost in the ice off Point
Barrow. There is an introduction by William Frederic Bade, and an appen-
dix giving the Glaciation of the Arctic and Subarctic Regions, and Bot-
anical Notes.
In "The Cruise of the Corwin," Mr. Muir tells of the difficulties en-
countered in their attempt to reach Wrangell Land, where it was expected
they would find some record left by the Jeannette. The book not only
tells of the glaciation and tundra and fauna of the Northland, in which Mr.
Muir was particularly interested, but also of the natives, their life, habits
and manner of abode. It is full of personal interest to those who are fa-
miliar with the Arctic, as well as to those who do not know it.
MARY L. KNAPP.
MUIR, JOHN. "The Cruise of the Corwin." 1917. Houghton-Mifflin Co.
$2.75 net.
"FINDING THE NORTH The author of this new book places the reader
WHILE IN THE in intimate association with the ins and outs
SOUTHWEST" of the Southwest and imparts the why and
wherefore of all the interesting corners of this
district. It is historically valuable.
L. E. ANDERSON.
SAUNDERS, CHARLES FRANCIS. "Finding the North While in the South-
west." 1918. Robert McBride & Co. $1.25 net.
"OUR The author uses in the introduction to his subject, "Our
NATIONAL National Forests," this sentence — "Its grandeur makes you
FORESTS" love it; its vastness makes you fear it; yet there is an ir-
resistible charm, a magic lure, an indescribable something
that stamps an indelible impression upon the mind and that makes you
want to go back there after you have sworn an oath never to return."
He is describing our west and the appeal is strong, for Mazama hikers
know many of the national forests from actual contact.
286 Book Reviews
The book deals with the natural resources of the forests, comprising
155,000,000 acres, in a comprehensive manner. Statistics are presented in
interesting, readable form and the government disposition and manage-
ment of these resources is attractively presented.
The author has condensed, under one cover, the various phases of
forestry work. In his introduction, discussing forestry as a National prob-
lem, he treats of such subjects as — our consumption of wood, the lumber
industry, forests and stream flow, how the government obtained the Na-
tional Forest lands, their extent and character, the romance of the National
Forest region, famous scenic wonders near the forests, the topography
and climate of the National Forest region, why the forests were created,
how the National Forest policy has benefitted the people, financial returns
and the new eastern National Forests.
The contents of the book are such as to interest the casual reader or
satisfy one more intent upon research work. It is illustrated by many
half-tone cuts made from original photographs.
Our National Forests are attractively presented, with sufficient data to
make the volume valuable as a book of reference.
MINNIE R. HEATH.
BOERKER, RICHARD H. "Our National Forests." 1918. The MacMillan
Co. $2.50.
"TENTING "Tenting Tonight/' by Mary Roberts Rinehart, is a very
TONIGHT" entertaining account by that well known writer of two ex-
peditions into some of the more inaccessible spots of the
northwest. It is first a recital of her experiences in taking herself, her
family, some eight packers, guides, cooks and thirty-one pack horses — not
to forget two boats — through the western and practically unknown side of
Glacier Park, up to the Canadian border. In the course of this trip they
run the rapids of the North Fork of the Flathead River, according to the
author, an unheard of feat, and to her "a prolonged four days' gasp."
In the second expedition they crossed the Cascades from the Chelan
country to Puget Sound, by way of Cascade Pass, over an absolutely virgin
trail — a trip abounding in thrills. Characteristic and mirth-provoking dis-
sertations on the relative vices and virtues of bough beds, the terror caused
by the untimely defection of the cook and a plaint as to the positive tor-
tures of down hill going enliven the account.
MARY GENE SMITH.
RINEHART, MARY ROBERTS. "Tenting Tonight." 1918. Hougtoton-Mif-
flin Company.
"THE HUMAN SIDE Portrays in an interesting, readable manner the
OF ANIMALS" human-like qualities of animals. The intelligence,
the reason, the method of protection, the govern-
ment, the industries, the musical ability, the play and the help to man are all
compared favorably with the faculties possessed by civilized man along
these lines. The author finds that animals are possessed of love, hate, joy,
grief, courage, pain, revenge, pleasure, want and satisfaction. The last
chapter deals entirely with proofs showing that the author is convinced that
animals have as much hope of a future life as man. The illustrations in
Book Reviews 287
color and the photographs are well in keeping with the text in their effort
to portray the animals from a friendly point of view. On the whole the
book is one to attract an interest in and even to create lovers of animals.
OLGA HOLLINGSBY.
DIXON, ROYAL. "The Human Side of Animals." 1918. Frederick A. Stokes
Co. $1.75 net.
"SIGN A very complete and well written dictionary of the Sign Lan-
TALK" guage, which Mr. Seton claims is the oldest, most universal, and
most easily understood language ever introduced. It is still
used to a great extent by the Indians when talking to members of
other tribes.
"Seeing is believing," is the fundamental basis of "Sign Talk," for by
signs the same idea is expressed, no matter what words are spoken. If a
person be in Berlin or Timbucktoo, no matter what language he speaks, he
will use the same signs to express the same thoughts as another person
from a different part of the globe who speaks an entirely different language.
The book is profusely illustrated and a study of it should prove inter-
esting and very helpful to all travelers and lovers of Indian lore.
GEORGE MEREDITH.
SETON, ERNEST THOMPSON. "Sign Talk." 1918. Doubleday, Page &
Co. $3.00.
"CAMPING AND This convenient sized book is one which every hiker
WOODCRAFT" should read whether he intends to leave the beaten
tracks of the forests or not. It is intensely interest-
ing while being practical and instructive.
Volume One was reviewed in the 1916 Mazama Magazine, and the pres-
ent volume (Number Two) is a confirmation of the anticipated pleasure
which the previous number aroused.
Traveling with the author, one learns to extricate himself from the
many difficulties encountered when lost in a strange forest, or when one's
camping equipment has been destroyed by some disaster. Under his advice
one learns to know how to find and prepare food when remote from civiliza-
tion. With him, one builds a shelter, and, in fact, "lives off the country"
quite happily. It is a book to own as well as to read.
M. R. H.
KEPHART, HORACE. "Camping and Woodcraft. Vol. II. 1917. Outing
Publishing Co., New York. Cloth $1.50 net. Leather $2.00 net.
"STEEP This, the last of John Muir's posthumous book, edited by Will-
TRAILS" iam Frederic Bade, is a collection of letters and articles, writ-
ten in the field, covering a period of nearly thirty years —
from 1874 to 1903, during which time they appeared mostly in local publi-
cations. The papers are arranged in chronological order, making a book
of nearly 400 pages, divided into twenty-four chapters, and with a dozen
illustrations.
The volume opens with "Wild Wool," a delightful bit, giving us a
glimpse of the bighorn sheep of the Sierra Nevada, and describing the "love
work of nature" in caring for her many bairns of clothing them with
288 Book Reviews
"smoothly imbricated feathers, shining jackets and shaggy furs. The squir-
rel has socks and mittens, and a tail broad enough for a blanket; the grouse
is densely feathered down to the end of his toes; and the wild sheep, be-
sides his undergarment of fine wool, has a thick overcoat of hair that sheds
off both the snow and the rain."
The chapters on Mt. Shasta tell of rambles in that region, describing the
woods and the wild life; also the lava beds, made famous by the Modoc war,
with a vivid account of an ascent of the mountain for barometrical observa-
tions, when the party was overtaken by a storm and spent the night on top
"midst the hissing, spluttering fumaroles."
In "Steep Trails" we wander through Utah and the Nevada dead towns
and the pine forests where the Indians of that region harvest the nuts for
their winter food; on to the great Northwest, with observations on the
Puget Sound country, with its lumber industries, interminable forests;
once more wending upwards on the rise of Mt. Rainier; from thence into
the Oregon country, with descriptions of its picturesque coast, through
beautiful woodlands, filled with the singing of innumerable streams. Here
we find an interesting account of David Douglas in the Umpqua Hills — the
Douglas for whom the noble Douglas spruce is named — gathering specimens
and exciting the curiosity of the Indians as he wandered through the woods.
The volume closes with a wonderful description of the Grand Canyon,
depicting it in one place as a "collection of stone books covering thousands
of miles of shelving — myriad forms of successive floras and faunas, lavishly
illustrated with colored drawings, carrying us back into the midst of the
life of a past infinitely remote."
All lovers of Nature's work will be charmed by reading these accounts
of the life out-of-doors — those days that enrich one's life and of which Muir
had so many; the thrilling experiences one has when Nature frowns; but
the "night will wear away and tomorrow we go a-Maying, and what camp-
fires we will make, and what sun-baths we will take."
CHRISTINE N. MORGAN.
MUIR, JOHN. "Steep Trails." Houghton-Mifflin Co., Boston. $3.00.
"A GUIDE TO THE A comprehensive compilation of detailed informa-
NATIONAL PARKS tion, useful and necessary to the traveler visiting
OP AMERICA" the national parks. Viz: Yellowstone, Crater Lake,
Mt. Rainier, Glacier, Yosemite, Sequoia, Mesa
Verde, Rocky Mountain, as well as the Grand Canyon of Arizona and the
Hot Springs of Arkansas. Also notes on the Hawaiian, Mt. McKinley, Las-
sen and other national parks and monuments and on Canadian national
parks. Contains accurate data on transportation to and in the parks, ac-
commodations, regulations and privileges, distances and elevations, gives
definite touring directions and describes features of interest. "Our national
parks are the greatest and most individual recreation grounds that any
American may visit, whether he cross the water or not."
FRANK JONES.
ALLEN. EDWARD PRANK, Editor of "Travel;" revised and enlarged edi-
tion with illustrations and four maps. 1918. Robert M. McBride & Co., Union
Square, New York. $1.25 net.
Book Reviews 289
"A GUIDE TO THE This revised edition of Sweetzer's White Moun-
WHITE MOUNTAINS" tain Guide is a regional handbook of the White
Mountains, which furnishes sufficient data to
make clear the details needed by an enthusiastic hiker or climber.
It is of convenient pocket size with accompanying maps and will prove
interesting and companionable, as well as decidedly useful to any one visit-
ing the White Mountains.
MINNIE R. HEATH.
SWEETZER, M. F. "A Guide to the White Mountains." 1918. Edited
and revised by John Nelson. Houghton-Mifflin Company. $2.75 net.
"THE BIRD Every year more people become interested in out-of-
STUDYBOOK" door things. Bird study has become popular because
children are taught in the schools to love birds, not
only for their beauty, but because of their economic value to the state
and nation.
It is not difficult for those versed in ornithology to find books for the
classification of birds, but so often the inquiry is made for a good begin-
ner's book. This book meets the requirement for both old and young. It
tells in simple language what to look for and where to find it. It is an in-
troduction to the feathered people of the field and forest. It is a guide to
the traits and character of birds, which, if followed, will lead to those bird
companionships which will make life happier.
Mr. Pearson has long been a lover of bird life. For years, he has been
the chief executive of the National Association of Audubon Societies, the
organization that has done more than any other to bring birds into our
homes by systematic teaching among the schools of the nation. He was
more fitted to write this book than any one else. The book is of great
value in bird study because it is a part of his life.
WILLIAM L. FINLEY.
PEARSON, T. GILBERT. The Bird Study Book. 1918. Doubleday, Page
& Company.
"VOYAGES ON THE It covers the field thoroughly from every point,
YUKON AND ITS as only a writer could who has spent a great part
TRIBUTARIES" of his life there, living intimately with the people
and knowing them and the whole country which
is treated in this late book.
L. E. ANDERSON.
STUCK. HUDSON. "Voyages On the Yukon and Its Tributaries." 1917.
Scribners, New York.
"DESCRIPTION..OF In the booklet of the above title we are shown how
AND GUIDE TO the Canadian government makes known to the
JASPER PARK" nature-lover the attractions of its national parks.
The book is issued by the Department of
the Interior, at Ottawa, Canada.
Jasper Park is in Alberta Province, the central part of it (with the little
town of Jasper as the hub) being located about 200 miles west of Edmonton.
The park covers about 4400 square miles, and it is reached by two trans-
continental railways that enter by way of the valley of the Athabasca River.
290 Book Reviews
Before compiling the booklet (Guide) the department had a photo-
graphic survey made of the central part of the park, and the results are
shown in a splendid topographic map consisting of six sheets which ac-
companies the Guide. The treatise is divided into several chapters, includ-
ing the location and early history of the park, a general description of the
park, with special chapters devoted to outlines of possible trips in every
direction from the principal towns. There is even included an appendix
giving a condensed schedule of all possible trips requiring from only an
hour to several days. The numerous mountains in the park are done full
justice with illustrations, representations on the maps, and are arranged
in a special alphabetical list, giving location, elevation, etc.
It will be seen from the foregoing that the Canadians are most up-to-
date in providing the intending tourist with succinct and easily referred-to
descriptions and data covering their national parks. A feature that must
appeal strongly to the genuine seeker of knowledge is the early history of
the park region. We read in this guide of the explorers, fur-traders, natural-
ists and others who traversed the present park long ago, as early as 1810.
Noted characters in the early history of the provinces are mentioned, and
extracts of narratives written by them are quoted freely. It may be ex-
plained that the Hudson's Bay Company and other fur-trading companies
then operating in the Canadas and the Pacific Northwest had to establish
lines of communication between Hudson Bay and the Pacific Ocean. The
discovery of Athabasca Pass in 1811 opened a new route to the trading
posts along the Columbia River, and that of Yellowhead Pass in 1826 opened
a route afterwards followed by transcontinental railways. The use of both
of the passes involved passage through the present park.
We read in the Guide of how, a century ago, the trading brigades, twice
a year, started from Edmonton, passed through the park and on to the
headwaters of the Columbia, thence down the latter to our present Van-
couver, near Portland. The voyage along the Columbia and a portion of
the Athabasca was made in boats, but the rest of the way by pack-horses.
Twice a year, in each direction, this voyage was made, each occupying about
three and one-half months and involving an amount of hardship and toil not
appreciated by the present generation.
We also read of the founding of Astoria at the mouth of the Columbia
in 1811 by John Jacob Astor, mentioned by Washington Irving in his book
"Astoria" as causing such a sensation in this vast wilderness at that time.
The miscarriage of Astor's plans, by which the new post of Astoria had to
be virtually surrendered to the British in 1813, is related. The next year,
the annual spring brigade which passed up the Columbia, bound for the
Hudson Bay region (via our park), consisted of men, women and children
of many nationalities — described as "an extraordinary collection of human
beings."
All in all, the book under review is an admirable exponent of the right
method to follow in presenting to intelligent persons the features of the
scenic regions that they may contemplate visiting. The thorough methods
used and the manner of presentation may largely account for the partiality
shown by men of science, scholars and nature-lovers generally for Canadian
scenery. W. P. HARDESTY.
"Description of and Guide to Jasper Park." Department of the Interior,
Ottawa. 1917.
Book Reviews 291
"PRACTICAL A book intended for the beginner and one to induce the
BAIT CASTING" inexperienced to become a proficient bait casting fish-
erman. It will also prove of much value to those of
more experience.
The different kinds and qualities of rods, reels and lines and how and
when to use each is well discussed. Live and artificial baits are covered in
detail.
The closing chapters are devoted to all kinds of waters, the fish to be
found therein and the best method and time to be successful in obtaining a
good catch under varying conditions.
ED. PETERSON.
ST. JOHN, LARRY. "Practical Bait Casting." 1918. The MacMillan Com-
pany, $1.00. Illustrated.
"CAMPING This book carries information as to every possible phase of
OUT" camp life. It is the tested result of thirty years practical
experience in camping out and is intended to meet the
needs of the out-of-doors enthusiast under any and all circumstances.
Whether it be a hunting, fishing or canoe trip, a horseback jaunt or auto
trip, a beach hike or a pack into the mountains, one will find a wealth of
valuable information which if heeded would enable any one of these to be
done with the maximum of comfort and the minimum of effort.
It is designed to meet all the exigencies of weather, heat, rain, sn6w or
cold, insect life, cooking and shelter. It contains details as to every kind of
equipment, packs, clothing, tents, etc. A chapter on camp cooking and one
on wilderness guideposts contain many valuable hints. No possible detail
is neglected from camping de luxe to the lone hike with the barest neces-
saries. Not the least Important — to quote the author — is "how to sleep
warm without loading oneself like a furniture van."
Best of all it is not a commercial product but a very reliable account
of pleasure trips taken by the author in company with Joan, the Kid,
Micky, Doc or some other of his particular pals.
MARY GENE SMITH.
MILLER, WARREN H. "Camping Out." 1918. Geo. H. Doran Company,
New York.
A Book
He ate and drank the precious words,
His spirit grew robust;
He knew no more that he was poor,
Nor that his frame was dust.
He danced along the dingy days;
And this bequest of wings
Was but a book. What liberty
A loosen'd spirit brings!
— Emily Dickinson.
Mazama Membership List, November i, 1918
ACTON, HARRY W., 519 W. 121st
St., New York, N. Y.
ACTON, MRS. HARRY W.f 519 W.
121st St., New York, N. Y.
ADAMS, DR. W. CLAUDE, 1010 E.
28th St. N., Portland, Oregon.
AITCHISON, CLYDE B., 504 Real
Estate Trust Bldg., Washington,
D. C.
AKIN, DR. OTIS F.. 919 Corbett
Bldg., Portland, Oregon.
ALLARD, NAN F.. Foot of Miles St.,
Portland, Oregon.
ALLEN, ARTHUR A., care Portland
Rowing Club, Portland, Oregon.
ALLEN, ENID C., 917 Andrus Bldg.,
Minneapolis^ Minn.
ALMY, LOUISE A., Box 426, Dillon,
Montana.
AMOS, DR. WM. F., 1016 Selling
Bldg., Portland, Oregon.
fANDERSEN, DR. FREDERICK,
Merwyn Bldg., Astoria, Oregon.
ANDERSON, LeROY R, 213 North-
western Bank Bldg., Portland, Ore.
ANDERSON, WM. H., 4464 Fremont
Ave., Seattle, Washington.
APPLEGATE, ELMER I, Klamath
Falls, Oregon.
ASCHOFF, ADOLF, Marmot, Ore.
ASCHOFF, OTTO, Marmot, Ore.
ATKINSON, R. H., 1028 E. Washing-
ton St., Portland, Oregon.
ATLAS, CHAS. K, care Hurley Ma-
son Co., Tacoma, Wash.
AVERILL, MARTHA M., 1144 Haw-
thorne Ave., Portland, Oregon.
AYER, ROY W., 689 Everett St.,
Portland, Oregon.
AYER, LEROY, JR., Chawfordsville,
Oregon.
BABB, HAROLD S., 578 Miller St.,
Portland, Oregon.
BACKUS, LOUISE, 122 E. 16th St.,
Portland, Oregon.
BACKUS, MINNA, 122 E, 16th St.,
Portland, Oregon.
BAGLEY, FRANK S., Portland, Ore.
BAILEY, A. A.. JR., 644 East Ash St.,
Portland, Oregon.
BAILEY, VERNON, 1834 Kalorama
Ave., Washington, D. C.
BALLOU, O. B., 80 Broadway, Port-
land, Oregon.
BALMANNO, JACK H,, 5508 50th
Ave. S. E., Portland, Oregon.
BANFIELD, ALICE, 570 East Ash
St., Portland, Oregon.
BARCK, DR. C., 205-207 Humboldt
Bldg., St. Louis, Mo.
BARNES, M. H, 657 Schuyler St.,
Portland, Oregon.
BARRINGER, M1AUDE, 5th and M
Sts., Fredonia, Kansas
BATES, MYRTLE, 448 E. 7th St.,
Portland* Oregon.
BEATTIE, BYRON J., 830 Rodney
Ave., Portland, Oregon.
BELL, MISS HALLIE, 330 E. 9th St.
N., Portland, Oregon.
BENEDICT, LEE, 185 E. 87th St. N.,
Portland, Oregon.
BENEDICT, MAE, 185 E. 87th St., N.,
Portland, Oregon.
BENTALL, MAURICE, General De-
livery, Hathaway, Montana,
BERG, MRS. G. ALBERT, 304 So.
6tih St., Marshalltown, Iowa.
BIGGS, ROSCOE G., 547 E. Pine St.,
Portland, Oregon.
BISSELL, GEO. W., 223 W. Emerson
St., Portland, Oregon.
BLACKINGTON, PAULINE, 32 Jef-
fersonian Apts, Portland, Ore.
BLAKNEY, C. E., R, F. D. No. 2,
Box 151, Milwaukie, Ore.
BLUE, WALTER 1306 E, 32d St. N.,
Portland, Oregon.
Bodway, W. P., General Delivery,
Portland, Oregon.
BORNT,, LULU ADELE, 641 E. 13th
St. S., Portland, Oregon.
BOWERS, NATHAN A., 501 Rial to
Bldg., San Francisco, Cal.
BOWIE, ANNA, 297 E. 35th St., Port-
land, Oregon.
BOYCE, EDWARD, 207 St. Glair St.,
Portland, Oregon.
BOYCHUK, WALTER, 174 Meade St.,
Portland, Oregon.
BRENNAN, THERESA, 380 Tenth
St., Portland, Oregon.
BROCKMAN, GUS, 15 E. 15th St., N.,
Portland, Oregon.
BRONAUGH, JERRY E., Gasco Bldg.,
Portland, Oregon.
BRONAUGH, GEORGE, 350 North
32d St., Portland, Oregon.
BROWN, ALBERT S., Portland, Ore.
BROWN, G. T., 500 E. Morrison St.,
Portland, Oregon.
BRUNELL, EVA, 18th and Abbott St.,
Woscester, Mass.
BULLIVANT, ANNA, 269 13th St,
Portland, Oregon.
BUSH, J. C.. 683 E. Morrison St.,
Portland, Oregon.
CALHOUN, MRS. HARRIET S., 38
Deleware Ave., Detroit, Mich.
CALL WELL, CHARLOTTE, 309 San
Rafael St., Portland, Oregon.
CAMPBELL, GRACE, 415 Tenth St.,
Portland, Oregon.
CAMPBELL, DAVID, Monmouth, Or-
egon.
CAMPBELL, P. L,, 1170 13th Ave., E
Eugene, Oregon.
CARL, MRS. BEULAH MILLER, 629
Ash St., Portland, Oregon.
CASE, GEORGENE M., Foot of Miles
St., Portland, Oregon.
Membership
293
CECIL, K. P., U. S. Forest Service,
Portland, Oregon.
CHAMBERS, MARY H., 729 llth
Ave., E., Eugene, Oregon.
CHASE, J. WESTON, 216 Lumber-
men's Bldg, Portland, Oregon.
CHENOWETH, MAT, 104 E. 24th St.,
N., Portland, Oregon.
CHRISTIANSON, WM. D., 134 Col-
burn St., Brantford, Ontario.
CLARK, WM. D., Vancouver Bar-
racks, Washington.
CHURCH, WALTER E., 1170 13th
Ave., E., Eugene, Oregon.
CHURCHILL, ARTHUR M., 1229 N.
W. Bank Bldg., Portland, Oregon.
CLARK, HOMER J., 706 Glisan St.,
Portland, Oregon.
COLBORN, MRS. AVIS EDWARDS,
355 Prospect Ave., Buffalo, N. Y.
COLBY, F. H., 14th and Jefferson
Sts., Portland, Oregon.
COLLINS, W. G., 510 32d Ave., S.,
Seattle, Washington.
*COLVILLE, PROF. F. V., care Dept.
of Agriculture, Washington, D. C.
CONNELL, DR. E. DeWITT, 628 Sal-
mon St., Portland, Oregon.
CONWAY, D. J., 4705 60th St., S. E.,
Portland, Oregon.
CONWAY, RAYMOND T., 4705 60th
S. E., Portland, Oregon.
COOK, ARTHUR, 243 W. Park St.,
Portland, Oregon.
COOK, F. R., 430 E, 40th St., N. Port-
land, Oregon.
COURSEN, EDGAR E., 658 Lovejoy
St., Portland, Oregon.
COURSEN, GERALDINE R., 658
Lovejoy St., Portland, Oregon.
COWPERTHWAITE, JULIA, Station
E., Portland, Oregon.
COWIE, LILLIAN G., Wellesley
Court, Portland, Oregon.
CRANER, HENRY C., P. O Box
672, Los Angeles, Cal
CREIGHTON, LOLA I.', 920 E, Ev-
erett St., Portland, Oregon.
GROUT, NELLIE C., 1326 E. Tilla-
mook St., Portland, Oregon.
CURRIER, GEO. H., Leona, Ore.
CURTIS, EDWARD S., 614 Second
Ave., Seattle, Washington.
CUTTING, RUTH M., 4603 59th St.,
>S. E., Portland, Oregon.
*DAVIDSON, PROF. G., San Fran-
cisco, Cal.
DAVIDSON, GRACE M., 10th and
Montgomery Sts., Portland, Ore.
DAVIDSON, R. J.f 458 E. 49th St., N.,
Portland, Oregon.
DAVIDSON, MRS. R. J., 458 E. 49th
St., N., Portland, Oregon.
DAY, BESSIE, 690 Olive St., Eugene,
Oregon.
*DILLER, PROF. JOS. S., U. S. G. S.,
Washington, D. C.
DILLINGER. ANNA C., 692 E. Ash
St., Portland, Oregon.
DILLINGER, MRS. C. E., 692 E. Ash
St., Portland, Oregon.
DOWLING, EUGENE H., 742 Bel-
mont St., Portland, Oregon.
DOWLING, MRS. COLISTA M., 742
Belmont St., Portland, Oregon.
DUFFY, MARGARET C., 467 E. 12th
St., Portland, Oregon.
ELLIS, PEARL, 454 E. 22d St., N.,
Portland, Oregon.
ENGLISH, NELSON, 267 Hazel Fern
St., Portland, Oregon.
ERREN, H. W., 285 Ross St., Port-
land, Oregon.
ESTES, MARGARET P., 692 E. 43d
St., N., Portland, Oregon.
EVANS, WM. W., 246 20th St., N.,
Portland, Oregon.
EWELL, ELAINE, 608 E. Taylor St.,
Portland, Oregon.
FAGSTAD, THOR, Cathlamet, Wash.
FARRELL, THOMAS G., 328 E. 25th
St., Portland, Oregon.
FARRELLY, JANE, 1072 E. 29th St,
N., Portland, Oregon.
FINLEY, WM. L-. 651 E. Madison St.,
Portland, Oregon.
FISH, ELMA. 259 E. 46th St., Port-
land, Oregon.
FLEMING, MISS M. A., 214 Post
Office Bildg., Portland, Oregon.
FLESHER, J. N., Carson, Wash.
FORD, G. L., 309 Stark St., Portland,
Oregon.
FORMAN, W. P., Portland, Oregon.
FOSTER, FORREST L., 354 49th
St., S. E., Portland, Oregon.
FOSTER, HERBERT J., 323 E. 162d
St., New York, N. Y.
FRANING, ELEANOR, 549 N. Broad
St., Galesburg, Ills.
FRIES, SAMUEL M., 691 Flanders
St., Portland, Oregon.
FULLER, MARGARET E., 64 E. 67th
St., Portland, Oregon.
GARDNER, BERNICE J., 2611 62d
St., S. E., Portland, Oregon.
GARRETT, GEORGE, 646 Cypress
St., Portland, Oregon.
GASCH, MARTHA M., 9 E. 15th St.,
N., Portland, Oregon.
GEBALLE, PAULINE, 689 North-
rup St., Portland, Oregon.
GEORGE, MELVIN C., 616 Market
Drive, Portland, Oregon.
GEORGE, LUCIE M., Rexford Apts.,
Portland, Oregon.
GILE, ELEANOR, 622 Kearney St,
Portland, Oregon.
GILMOUR, W. A., Title & Trust
Bldg., Portland, Oregon,
GIRSBERGER, MABEL R., oare Mo-
doc Lbr. Co., Chiloquin, Ore,
GLISAN, RODNEY L., 612 Spalding
Bldg., Portland, Oregon.
GOLDAPP. MARTHA OLGA, 455 E.
12th St., Portland, Oregon.
GOLDSTEIN. MAX, 575 Third St
Portland, Oregon.
294
Membership
**GORMAN, MARTIN W., Forestry
Bldg., Portland, Oregron.
GRAVES, HENRY S., U. S. Forestry
Service, Washington, D. C.
*GREELEY, GENERAL A. W.f Wash-
ington, D. C.
GREY, HARRY C., Shermerville, Ills.
GRIFFIN, MARGARET A., 303 Ti-
tle & Trust Bldg., Portland, Ore.
GRIFFITH, B. W., 1736 Kane St., Los
Angeles. Cal.
HAFFENDEN. A. H. S., 4236 49th
Ave., S. E., Portland, Oregon.
HALLINGBY, OLGA, 767 E. Flanders
St., Portland, Oregon.
HARDESTY, WM. P., 60 E. 31st St.,
N., Portland, Oregon.
IHARDINGHAUS, EVELYN, 1026
Beulah Vista St., Portland, Ore.
HARNOIS, PEARLE E., 1278 Will-
iams Ave., Portland, Oregon.
HARPER, IRA H., 2801 H Street,
Vancouver, Wash.
HARPER, MRS. IRA H., 2801 H St.,
Vancouver, Wash.
HARRIS, CHARLOTTE M., 1195 E.
29th St, N., Portland, Oregon.
HARZA, L. F., Box 345, Jacksonville,
Florida.
HAZARD. JOSEPH T., 4050 First
Ave,, N. E., Seattle, Washington.
HATCH, LAURA, 36 Bedford Terrace,
Northampton, Mass.
HATHAWAY, WARREN G., Manette,
Washington.
HAWKINS, E. R., 655 Everett St.,
Portland, Oregon.
HEATH, MINNIE R., 665 Everett
St., Portland, Oregon.
HEDEN, PAUL F., 720 E. 22d St., N.,
Portland, Oregon.
HDLFRICH, CHARLES S., Allen-
town, Penn.
HENDERSON, G. P., 1155 E. Yam-
folll St., Portland, Oregon.
HENRY, E, G., 488 N. 24th St., Port-
land, Oregon.
HENTHORNE. MARY C., Cor. E. 71st
and Morrison Sts., Portland, Ore.
HERMANN, HELEN M., 965 Kerby
St., Portland, Ore.
HEYER, A, L., JR., care Foundation
Co., Tacoma, Wash.
HIGH, AUGUSTUS, 300 W. 13th St.,
Vancouver, Wash.
HILTON, FRANK H., 504 Fenton
BMg., Portland, Oregon.
HIMES, GEO. H., Auditorium, Port-
land, Oregon.
HINE, A. R., 955 E. Taylor St., Port-
land, Oregon.
HITCH, ROBERT E., 503 Fenton
Bldg., Portland, Oregon.
HODGSON. CASPAR W., Rockland
Ave., Park Hill, Yonkers, N. Y.
HOGAN. CLARENCE, 591 Borthwick
St., Portland, Oregon.
HOLDEN, JAS. E., 1652 Alameda
Drive, Portland, Oregon.
HOLMAN, F. C., 558 Lincoln Ave.,
Palo Alto, California.
HOLT, DR. C. R.. 217 Failing Bldg.,
Portland, Oregon.
HORN, C. L., The Wheeldon Annex,
Portland, Oregon.
HOWARD, ERNEST E., 1012 Balti-
more Ave., Kansas City, Mo.
IVANAKEFF, PASHO, 246 Clacka-
mas St., Portland, Oregon.
IVEY, RALPH S., R. F. D., Milwau-
kie, Oregon.
JACOBS, MARY B., 315 llth St.,
Portland, Oregon.
JAEGER, J. P., 131 6th St., Portland,
Oregon.
JEPPESEN, ALICE, 891 Albina Ave.,
Portland, Oregon.
JOHNSON, FRED J., 275 Pine St.,
Portland, Oregon.
JOHNSON, H. C., 618 Nicollet, Min-
neapolis, Minn.
JOHNSTON, AMY, 545 E. 23rd St., N.,
Portland, Oregon.
JONES, F. I.. 307 Davis St., Portland,
Oregon.
JOYCE, ALICE V., O A. C., Corval-
lis, Oregon.
KACH, F. G., Portland, Oregon.
KERN, EMMA B.f 335 14th St., Port-
land, Oregon.
KERR, DR. D. T., 556 Morgan Bldg.,
Portland, Oregon.
KNAPP, MARY L., 656 Flanders St.,
Portland, Oregon.
KOERNER. BERTHA, 481 E. 45th
St., N., Portland, Oregon.
KOOL, JAN. 1309 Yeon Bldg., Port-
land, Oregon.
KREBS, H. M., 245 E. Broadway St.,
Portland, Oregon.
KRESS, CHARLOTTE, 1026 Beulah
Vista St., Portland, Oregon.
KRUSE, JOHANNA, Route A, Port-
land, Oregon.
KUENEKE, ALMA R., 869 Clinton
St., Portland, Oregon.
KUNKEL, HARRIET, 405 Larch St.,
Portland, Oregon.
KUNKEL, KATHARINE, 857 Gar-
field Ave., Portland, Ore.
LADD, HENRY A., care Ladd &
Tilton Bank. Portland, Oregon.
LADD, W. M., care Ladd & Tilton
Bank, Portland, Oregon.
LANDIS, MARTHA, 2019 E. Main
St., Portland, Oregon.
LANE, JOHN L., 410 Harrison St.,
Portland, Oregon.
LANE, MRS. JOHN L., 410 Harrison
St., Portland, Oregon.
LAWFFER, G. A., 309 Stark St., Port-
land, Oregon.
LAWSON. AGNES G., 767 Montgom-
ery Drive, Portland, Oregon.
LEADBQETTER, F. W., 795 Park Ave.,
Portland, Oregon.
Membership
295
LEE, ALTHEA E., 4828 32d Ave. S.
BM Portland, Oregon.
LEE, JOHN A., 505-6 Concord Bldg.,
Portland, Oregon.
LERDALL, ELMER, Vancouver Bar-
racks, Waslh.
LEPPICH, ELSA L., 733 Washington
St., Portland, Oregon.
LETZ, JACQUES, State Bank of
Portland, Portland, Oregon.
LIBBY, HARRY C., 1278 E. Taylor
St., Portland, Oregon.
LIND, ARTHUR, care U. S. National
Bank, Portland, Oregon.
LOUCKS, ETHEL MAE, 466 E. 8th
St., N., Portland, Oregon.
LUETTERS, F. P., 689 Everett St.,
Portland, Oregon.
LUND, WALTER, 191 Grand Ave.,
N., Portland, Oregon.
LUTHER, DR. C. V,, E. 34th & Bel-
mont St., Portland, Oregon.
Me ARTHUR. LEWIS A., 561 Haw-
thorne Terrace, Portland, Ore.
McBRIDE, AGNES, 1764 E. Yamhlll
St., Portland, Oregon.
MCCLELLAND, ELIZABETH, 267
Shawnee Path, Akron, Ohio.
McCOLLOM, DR. J. W., 553-7 Morgan
Bldg., Portland, Oregon.
McOORKLE, J. F., Second and Oak
.Sts., Portland, Oregon.
McCOY, SA.LLIE E., 211 Lumber-
men's Bldg., Portland, Oregon.
McCREADY, SUE O., Box 147 Etna
Logging Co., Vancouver, Wash.
McCULLOCH, CHARLES E., 1410
Yeon Bldg., Portland, Oregon.
MCDONALD, LAURA, 354 E. 49th
St., S., Portland, Oregon.
McISAAC, R. J., Parkdale, Oregon.
McNEIL, FLORENCE, 607 Orange
St., Portland, Oregon.
McNBIL, FRED H., care Journal,
Portland, Oregon.
MacDOUGALL, CHARLOTTE, 661
Monroe St., Portland, Oregon.
MACKENZIE, WM. R., 1002 Wilcox
Bldg., Portland, Oregon.
MAHONEY, HELENA C., 1238 Com-
monwealth Ave., Boston, Mass.
MAHONBY, PAUL, 1838 Common-
wealth Ave., Boston, Mass.
MARBLE, W. B.. 3147 Indiana Ave.,
Chicago, I1L
MARCOTTE. HENRY D. D., 218 E.
56th St., Kansas City, Mo.
MARKHAM, B. C., 343 */* Washington
St., Portland, Oregon.
MARSH, J. W., 528 S. Ivanlhoe St.,
Portland, Oregon.
MARSHALL, BERTHA, 1445 B St.,
San Diego, Cal.
MKARS. HENRY T., 494 Northrup
St., Portland, Oregon.
HEARS, S. M., 721 Flanders St., Port-
land, Oregon.
MEREDITH, GEORGE, 8*4 N. llth
St., Portland, Oregon.
MEREDITH, JOHN D., 329 Wash-
ington St., Portland, Oregon.
*MERRIAM, DR. C. HART, 1919
16th. St., N. W., Washington, D. C.
MERTEN, CHAS. J., 307 Davis St.,
Portland, Oregon.
MILES, S., 32 E. State St., Albion,
N. Y.
MILLER, ARCHIE J., Box 22, Enter-
prise, Ore.
MILLBR, JESSE, 726 E. 20th St.,
Portland, Oregon.
MILLS, ENOS A., Longs Peak, Estes
Park, Colo.
MONROE, HARRIETT E., 1431 E. Sal-
mon St., Portland, Oregon.
MONTAGUE, JACK R., 1310 Yeon
Bldg., Portland, Oregon.
MONTAGUE, RICHARD W., 1310
Yeon Bldg., Portland, Oregon.
MORGAN, MRS. CHRISTINE N., 320
E. llth St., N.. Portland, Oregon.
MORKILL, ALAN BROOKS, 1971
Oak Bay Ave., Victoria, B. C.
NALLY, JOHN S., Washington, D. C.
NELSON, L. A., 410 Beck Bldg., Port-
land, Oregon.
NEWEL,L. BBN W., care Ladd & Til-
ton Bank, Portland, Oregon.
NEWTON, JOSEPHINE, 1350 Pine
St., Philadelphia, Pa.
NIEHANS, MARGARET, 353 Harri-
son St., Portland, Oregon.
NICKELL, Anna, 410 Stanley Apts,
Seattle, Washington.
NILSSON, MARTHA E., 320 E. llth
St., N., Portland, Oregon.
NISSEN, IREiNE, 969 E. 23d St., N.,
Portland, Oregon.
NORDEEN, EDITH, 361 Graham St.,
Portland, Oregon.
NORMAN, M. OSCAR, 698 E. 62d St.,
N., Portland, Oregon.
NOTTINGHAM, JESSIE RAY, 271 E.
16th St., N., Portland, Oregon.
NUNAN, CINITA, 489 W. Park St.,
Portland, Oregon.
O'BRYAN, HARVEY, 602 McKay
Bldg., Portland, Oregon.
**O'NEILL, MARK, Worcester Block,
Portland, Oregon.
OGLESBY, ETTA M., Baron Apt.,
14th and Columbia, Portland, Ore.
ORMANDY, HARRY M., 501 Weidler
St., Portland, Oregon.
ORMANDY, JAMES A., 501 Weidler
St., Portland, Oregon.
PARKER, ALFRED F., 374 E 51st
St., Portland, Oregon.
PARKER, ROSE F., Milwaukie, Ore-
gon.
PARSONS, MRS. M. R., Mosswood
Road, University Hill, Berkeley,
California.
PATTULLO, A. S., 500 Concord Bldg.,
Portland, Oregon.
PAUBR, JOHN, 485 E. 20th St., N.,
Portland, Oregon.
296
Membership
PAYTON, PERLEB G.. 3916 64th St.,
S. E., Portland, Oregon.
PEARCE, MRS. LLEWELLYN C.,
1016 Clackamas St., Portland, Ore.
PEASLEE, W. D., 125 E. lltlhi St.,
Portland, Oregon.
PENDLETON, CECIL, M., 285 y>
First St., Portland, Oregon.
PENLAND, JOHN R.f Box 345, Al-
bany, Oregon.
PENWELL, ESTHER, 95 E. 74th
St., Portland, Oregon.
PERNOT, DOROTHY, 242 5th St.,
Corvallis, Oregon.
PETERSEN, AUGUST. Y. M. C. A.,
Portland, Oregon.
PETERSON, ARTHUR S., 780 Will-
iams Ave., Portland, Oregon.
PETERSON, E. F., 780 Williams
Ave., Portland, Oregon.
PETERSON, H. C., M. A, A. C., Port-
land, Oregon.
PETERSON, LAURA H.. 395 ^ Clif-
ton St., Portland, Oregon.
PILKINGTON, THOMAS J., Sebas-
topol, California,
**PITTOCK, H. L., Imperial Heights,
Portland, Oregon.
PHILLIPS, MABEL F., 335 14th St.,
Portland, Oregon.
PLATT, ARTHUR D., Cambridge,
Mass.
PLUMMER, AGNES, Third and Mad-
ison Sts., Portland, Oregon.
PRATT, JULIA E., 1200 E. Taylor
St., Portland, Oregon.
PRENTYS, R. P., Congress Hotel,
Portland, Oregon.
PRBVOST, FLORENCE, Highland
Court Apts., Portland, Oregon.
REA. R. W., Prineville, Oregon.
REDDEN, CECIL V., Vancouver Bar-
racks, Wash.
REDMAN, FRANK M., 1014 North-
western Bank Bldg., Portland, Ore.
REED, MRS. ROSE COURSEN, 308
Ellera Bldg., Portland, Oregon.
*REID, PROF. HARRY FIELDING,
Baltimore, Md.
REIST, LINN L., 600 Chamber Com-
merce Bldg., Portland, Oregon.
RHODES, EDITH G.. 5005 42d Ave.,
S. E,, Portland, Oregon.
RICE, EDWIN L., 1191 E. Yamhill
St., Portland, Oregon.
RICHARDSON, EDWARD L.. 1217
Lee St., Evanston, Ills.
RICHARDSON, JEAN, 131 E. 19th
St., Portland, Oregon.
RICHMOND, STANLEY C., Van-
couver Barracks, Wash.
RIDDELL, GEO. X., Portland, Ore.
RIDDELL, H. H., 415 R 19th St., N.,
Portland, Oregon.
RILEY, FRANK BRANCH, Chamber
Commerce Bldg., Portland, Ore.
RISELING, ROBERT F., 1427
Northwestern Bank Bldg., Port-
land, Oregon.
ROBERTS, ELLA PRISCELLA, 109
E. 48th St., Portland, Oregon.
ROBINSON, DR. EARL C., 660 Mor-
gan Bldg., Portland, Ore.
ROEMER, LOWELL, 4405 E. 89th
St., S. E., Portland, Oregon.
*ROOSEVELT, THEODORE, Oyster
Bay, N. Y.
ROOT, BELLE OTT, 328 Mill St.,
Portland, Oregon.
ROSENKRANS, F. A., 335 E. 21st
St., N., Portland, Oregon.
ROSS, RHODA, 1516 E. Oak St.,
Portland, Oregon.
ROSS, WILLIS W., 494 Yamhill St.,
Portland, Oregon.
SAKRISON, C. H., 356 Fargo St.,
Portland, Oregon.
SAMMONS, E. C., 69 E. 18tib St.,
Portland, Oregon.
SCHNEIDER, MARION, 260 Hamil-
ton Ave., Portland, Oregon.
SCHNEIDER, KATHERINE, 260
Hamilton Ave., Portland, Oregon.
SEARCY, ROBERT D., 616 Chamber
of Commerce Bldg., Portland, Ore.
SELF, NORA, Camas, Wash.
SHARP, J. C., Prineville, Oregon.
SHELTON, ALFRED C., 1390 Emer-
ald St., Eugene, Oregon.
SHEPARD, F. E., 490 E. 33d St.,
Portland, Oregon.
SHERMAN, MINET R., 774 Everett
St., Portland, Oregon.
SHIPLEY, J. W., Underwood, Wash.
SHOLES, CHAS. H., 1530 Hawthorne
Ave., Portland, Oregon.
SHOLES, MRS. CHAS. H., 1530 Haw-
thorne Ave., Portland, Oregon.
SIEBERTS, CONRAD J., 683 E. Stark
St., Portland, Oregon.
SIEBERTS, MRS. CONRAD J., 683
E. Stark St., Portland, Oregon.
SILL, j. G., 539 Vancouver Ave., Port-
land, Oregon.
SILVER, ELSIE M., 100 Sixth St.,
Portland, Oregon.
SMEDLEY. GEORGIAN E., 262 E,
16th St., Portland, Oregon.
SMITH, MARY GENE, Campbell-
Hill Hotel, Portland, Oregon.
SMITH W. E., 589 E. 12th St., N.,
Portland, Oregon.
SMITH, KAN., U. S. Forest Service,
Portland, Oregon.
SMITH, LEOTTA, Palatine Hill, Os-
wego, Oregon.
SMITH, PROF. WARREN D., 941 E.
19th St., Eugene, Oregon.
SNEAD, J. S. L. 572 E. Broadway
St., Portland, Oregon.
SPAETH, J. DUNCAN, Princeton,
N. J.
fSPURCK, NELL I., Seward Hotel,
Portland, Oregon.
STARKWEATHER, H. G., R. F. D.
No. 1, Milwaukie, Oregon.
STARR, NELLIE S., 6926 45th Ave.,
S. E., Portland, Oregon.
Membership
297
STEARNS, LULU, Ladd & Tilton
Bank, Portland, Oregon.
STEVENTON, JOSEPHINE, 720
Oberlin St., Portland, Oregon.
STONE, DR. W. E., Purdue Univer-
sity, Lafayette, Ind.
STONE, MRS. W. E., 146 North
Grant St., Lafayette, Ind.
STRINGER, A. R., Jr., 179 Bancroft
Ave., Portland, Oregon.
STUDER, GEORGE A., 608 Schuyler
St., Portland, Oregon.
STURGES, DANIELA R., 540 Eliza-
beth St., Portland, Oregon.
TAYLOR, VERA E., 604 Spalding
Bldg., Portland, Oregon.
TENNESON, ALICE M., R. F. D. No.
4, Yakima, Washington.
THATCHER, GUY W., 302 Sacra-
mento .St., Portland, Oregon.
THAXTER, B. A., 391 E, 24th St.,
Portland, Oregon.
THOMAS, EMMA M., Marmot, Ore.
THORINGTON, DR. J. M., 2031
Chestnut St., Philadelphia, Pa.
THORNE, H. J., 452 E. Tenth St., N.,
Portland, Oregon.
TOMPKINS, MARGARET, Foot of
Miles St., Portland, Oregon.
TREICHEL, CHESTER H., 535 Mall
St., Portland, Oregon.
TREICHEL GERTRUDE, 535 Mall
St., Portland, Oregon.
TUCKER, RALPH J., 389 */3 16th
St., Portland, Oregon.
UPSHAW, F. B., 401 Concord Bldg.,
Portland, Oregon.
VAN BEBBER, L., 503 Fenton Bldg.,
Portland, Oregon.
VAN ZANDT, DEAN, 6119 87th St.,
5. E., Portland, Oregon.
VANDER SLUIS, HELEN, 769 E.
Broadway St., Portland, Oregon.
VEAZIE, A. L., 695 Hosyt St., Port-
land, Oregon.
VERNON, HOWARD L., 22 Reade St.,
New York, N. Y.
VESSEY, ETHYLE, 1207 W. 18th St.,
Vancouver, Wash.
VIAL, LOUISE ONA, 580 E. Main St.,
Portland, Oregon.
WALDORF, LOUIS W., Western,
Nebraska,
WALTER, WILLIAM S., 55 North
21st St., Portland, Oregon.
WARD, JOHN S., New York, N. Y.
WARD, W. W.. 53 E. llth St., Port-
land Oregon.
\VARD, MRS. W. W., 53 E. llth St.,
Portland, Oregon.
WARNER, CHAS. E., 454 Taylor St.,
Portland, Oregon.
WEER, J. H., P. O. 1563, Tacoma,
Washington.
WEISTER, G. M., 653 E. 15th St., N.,
Portland, Oregon.
WENNER, B. F., 675 Glisan St., Port-
land, Oregon.
WHITE, WM., 1214 Commonwealth
Bldg., Philadelphia, Pa.
WILBURN, VESTA, care Richmond
Paper Co., Seattle, Washington.
WILDER, GEORGE W., 226 14th St.,
Portland, Oregon.
WILLARD, CLARA, 8Ul Franklin St.,
Vancouver, Wash.
WILLIAMS, A. BOYD, King Davis
Apts., Portland, Oregon.
WILLIAMS, MRS. A. BOYD, King
Davis Apts., Portland, Oregon.
WILLIAMS, GEO. M., 713 F St., Cen-
tralia, Wash.
**WILLIAMS, JpHN H., 2671 Filbert
St., San Francisco, California.
WILLIAMS, THOMAS H., 945 Weid-
ler St., Portland, Oregon.
WILSON, CHARLES W., Bellevue,
Idaho.
WILSON, RONALD M., care Rev.
Wilson, Dover.Mass.
WING, MARY, 1124 Macadam Road,
Portland, Oregon.
WOLBERS, HARRY L., 577 Kerby
St., Portland, Oregon.
WOODWORTH, C. B.. care Ladd &
Tilton Bank, Portland, Oregon.
WYNN, DR. FRANK B., 421 Hume
Mansur Bldg., Indianapolis, Ind.
YORAN, W. C., 912 Lawrence St.,
Eugene, Oregon.
YOUNG, CRISSIE C., 547^ Sixth St.,
Portland, Oregon.
ZANDERS, RUTH, Milwaukie, Ore-
ZIEGLER, MAE, 89 Mason St., Port-
land, Oregon.
Active . .
'Honorary
"»Life .
Total 411
fDeceased.
Hike in Comfort
We know the Mazama requirements
DUXBAK CLOTHES
KAMPIT CLOTHES
PACK SACKS
HIKING BOOTS
SNOW SHOES, SKIS
ALPENSTOCKS
Backus & Morris
Sporting Goods 273 Morrison St.
HONEYMAN HARDWARE COMPANY
FOURTH AT ALDER
Outing Clothing
ALADDIN, DUXBAK AND KAMPIT
for Men and Women
OUTING SHOES
for Men and Women
PACK SACKS AND GOGGLES
ALPENSTOCKS
SNOW SHOES AND SKIS SWEATERS AND JERSEYS
TENNIS AND GOLF SUPPLIES
HIGH GRADE FISHING TACKLE
WE'LL HELP YOU TAKE GOOD
No trip is complete without its kodak record.
No record is complete unless each pidure is good.
No snow is so dazzling, or weather and lighting
conditions so bad, but what we can show you
how to maka each picture good.
PICTURES
KODAKS
and Supplies
Developing,
Printing and
Engraving
Roll Films
Developed Free
when prints are ordered
Received by 5 P. M.
Ready 8 o'clock next morning
PROMPT SERVICE
EXCELLENT WORK
BETTER PRICES
Mail Orders
our specialty
We Guarantee Our Work
MULTNOMAH
PHOTO SUPPLY CO.
Pantages Theatre Building
131 Broadway Street
Portland, Oregon
Photo Laboratories at 388 Stark Street
AMERICAN
Cafeteria
A Special Table
for Mazamas where
they always feel
at home
148 and 150 Fifth Street
NEAR POSTOFFICE
Portland, Oregon
J. C. ENGLISH
COMPANY
EVERYTHING
ELECTRICAL
148 Fifth Street
(Second Boor)
between Morrison and Alder
NORMAN
BROTHERS
Tailors
to Men and Women
Main 3687
NORTHWESTERN BANK BLDG.
101-106 Mezzanine Floor
Cor. Morrison and Broadway
Portland, Oregon
When you want to know about
Birds,Trees and Flowers
GET
The Handbook of Western Birds,
flexible leather $4.00
F. W. Bailey
Western Bird Guide i.oo
Chaa. K. Reed
Birds of Oregon and Washington . .75
Lord
American Birds 1.50
W. L. Finley
Western Wild Flowers 2.50
K. Armstrong
Field Book of American Wild Flowers 2.00
F. S. Mathews
Flower Guide i.oo
C K. Reed
Tree Guide i.oo
/. E. Rogers
We have several shelves devoted to Bird, Flower
and Tree Books. Come in and look them over
Kodaks
and Kodak Supplies in the
Genuine Eastman
Quality
Photo Phil
our kodak expert, is one of these
chaps who is never happier than
when he is helping other kodak
enthusiasts get good results. Call on
him at any time to help you solve
your difficulties.
Your films given the best possible
attention.
Enlarging our specialty.
The kodak department at Third
street entrance, main floor.
GILL'S
THE J. K. GILL COMPANY
Booksellers, Stationers, Office Outfitters
THIRD AND ALDER STREETS, PORTLAND, OREGON
"RED RIBBON BRAND"
OLIVES, OLIVE OIL
PEANUT BUTTER
SYRUP, HONEY
EVAPORATED FRUITS
ALL KINDS OF FRUITS
PRESERVES, VEGETABLES
FISH AND COFFEE
The best of everything in eats — packed in tins and glass
under our "Red Ribbon" Label
MASON, EHRMAN & CO.
PORTLAND, OREGON
Mazamas:
Meier & Frank's
( The Qualify Store of Portland)
Is Best Prepared to Supply
AHYourNeeds
All the Time
At Prices that Are
Lower than Elsewhere
For Like Qualities
The Store of Service
and Accommodation
1807
THE: dUALlTr STO*& OF PORTLAND
FiftK. Sixths "Morrisoiv Alder Sta.
Printed by YORAN PRINTING HOUSE, EUGENE, OREGON
VOLUME V
DECEMBER, 1919
NUMBER 4
MAZAMA
A Record of Mountaineering
in the Pacific Northwest
NESIKA KLATAWA SAHALE
Published by THE MAZAMAS
332 CHAMBER OF COMMERCE BUILDING
PORTLAND, OREGON, U.S.A.
Sevenly-five Cents
Mazama Organization for the Year 1919-1920
OFFICERS
E. C. SAMMONS (U. S. National Bank) President
GEO. X. RIDDELL (689 Everett St.) Vice-President
ALFRED F. PARKER (330 Northwestern Bank Bldg.) Corresponding Sec'y
A. BOYD WILLIAMS (King-Davis Apts.) Recording Secretary
MARTHA E. NILSSON (320 E. llth St. North) Financial Secretary
MARION SCHNEIDER (260 Hamilton Avenue) Treasurer
LOLA I. CREIGHTON (920 East Everett St.) Historian
ROY W. AYER (689 Everett St.) Chairman of Outing Committee
EUGENE H. DOWLING (742 Belmont St.) Chairman Local Walks Com.
COMMITTEES
OUTING COMMITTEE— Roy W. Ayer, Chairman; Charles J. Merten, Miss
Martha E. Nilsson.
LOCAL WALKS COMMITTEE— Eugene H. Dowling, Chairman; W. J. Paeth,
Ben Newell, Miss Crissie C. Young, Miss Minna Backus.
HOUSE COMMITTEE— Mrs. Laura McDonald, Chairman; C. M. Pendleton,
Dr. D. T. Kerr, Miss Sallie E. McCoy, Miss Bernice Gardner.
ENTERTAINMENT COMMITTEE— Geo. Meredith, Chairman; Jamieson Par-
ker, Harry L. Wolbers, Miss Olga Hallingby, Miss Evelyn Hard-
inghaus.
PUBLICATION COMMITTEE— Geo. W. Wilder, Chairman; Miss Crissie C.
Young, Miss Agnes G. Lawson, Alfred F. Parker, Miss Minnie R.
Heath.
EDUCATIONAL COMMITTEE— Frank I. Jones, Chairman; Miss Laura Pet-
erson, Miss Katherine Schneider, John A. Lee, Rodney L. Glisan.
LIBRARY COMMITTEE— Miss Lola I. Creighton, Chairman; Harry C. Libby,
O. B. Ballou, Mrs. B. M. Carl, Miss Florence McNeil.
MEMBERSHIP PROMOTION COMMITTEE— Miss Harriett E. Monroe,
Chairman; Frank M. Redman, T. Raymond Conway.
AUDITING COMMITTEE— Robert F. Riseling, Chairman; Adrian Smith,
B. C. Nelson.
PUBLICITY COMMITTEE— Fred H. McNeil, Chairman.
MAZAMA
A RECORD OF MOUNTAINEERING IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
Alfred F. Parker Publication Committee Minnie R Hcath
A£nes G. Lawson G. W. WILDER, Editor Criiiie C. Youn*
VOLUME V PORTLAND, OREGON, DECEMBER, 1919 NUMBER 4
Contents
Page
REMINISCENCES OF MT. RAINIER OUTING ..... 301
Marion Schneider
AROUND THE GREAT WEST SIDE 307
John A. Lee
WITH THE BIRDS AND ANIMALS OF RAINIER 319
Wm. L. Finley
DAUPHINE DAYS 327
J. Munroe TJiorington
MOUNTAIN SICKNESS 332
Dr. Harry Beal Torrey
REMINISCENCES OF MT. BAKER 339
Dr. W. Claud Adams
MOUNTAIN CLIMBING IN GLACIER PARK 343
Francis Barbour Wynn
LARCH MOUNTAIN ASCENT 347
WHAT THE INDIANS TELL 349
F. H. Saylor
ASSOCIATED MOUNTAINEERING CLUBS OF N. AMERICA . . 362
REPORT OF LOCAL WALKS COMMITTEE 363
REPORT OF CERTIFIED PUBLIC ACCOUNTANT 366
ADDRESS OF THE RETIRING PRESIDENT 368
BOOK REVIEWS 370
MEMBERSHIP 374
302 Reminiscences of the Mt. Rainier Outing
the weird feeling that has taken possession of us. Not a mur-
mur of complaint is heard. Everyone is eager to get something
to eat, and find a shelter for the night, which is already begin-
ning to close in upon us.
The quarters for the women are on a ridge about a quarter
of a mile away from the cook tent. The trip across that long,
long snow-field seems never-ending, this first drizzly, foggy
night. The men carry the dunnage across and set to work put-
ting up shelter tents. At one spot a large fly is strung out from
a log and propped up with alpenstocks to shelter some twenty
girls. What a lot of amusement the "circus tent" brings to us !
Everyone shares with everyone else to make up for the lack of
dunnage. Miss Nilsson does her best to make us all comfort-
able for the night.
Monday morning arrives, dark and drizzly. Few fail to
answer the call for breakfast. As the crowd is gathered about,
laughing and chattering, the fog lifts for a few moments. There,
right in front of us, is the majestic mountain peak. We gaze
with awe and reverence at that towering mass of rock and snow.
Suddenly the curtain of fog falls once more, and we are alone
on the mountain.
Monday is a busy day. Camp sites must be located, tents
put up properly, wood gathered for the needed fires, dunnage
sorted, and shoes dried. Were you ever so busy in your life?
As if to compensate us for the experiences of Sunday and
Monday, Tuesday brings us perfect weather. Who can keep
down the smiles? Everyone radiates sheer joy. Mt. Rainier
is there in all of its majesty. The Tatoosh range looms up
across from us, luring us on to adventure. Our president, Mr.
Coursen, plans a trip up Pinnacle Peak. Ninety respond with
enthusiasm. At nine o'clock we are off across the snow-field
beyond the cook tent and along the Reflection Lake trail. We
know this is "Paradise" Valley. We look down at our feet;
flowers, myriads of them, in wild masses of brilliant alpine
coloring, border the trail. We look back; Mt. Rainier towers
above. We look beyond; near us we find little gems of snow
lakes, and away beyond are the jagged pinnacles of the Tatoosh
range. At Reflection Lake we pause to marvel at the perfect
image of the mountain. We zig-zag up the ridge, crossing and
recrossing long and steep snow-fields. Just below a series of
falls we find a rocky ledge carpeted with abundant heather,
where we rest for lunch. Now we begin the real climb. Alpen-
Reminiscences of the Mt. Rainier Outing 303
stocks are not needed on the rock work, so hand over hand we
pull ourselves up the steep slope. Long stretches recall most
vividly the pinnacle of Mt. Jefferson.
The panorama spread out before us is fitting reward for
the energy expended in getting to the top. The whole of Para-
dise Valley lies at our feet. In every direction mountain peaks
loom up on the horizon. There, nestled on Mazama Ridge, is
our camp. Down below is Paradise Inn. How near to camp it
is; and we had thought it was so far away. We gaze and gaze
and try to impress the loveliness, the peace, the beauty of it all
upon our minds. We are loath to climb down; but who wants
to miss dinner or be late for a camp-fire session?
We really have a camp-fire that night — one that persists in
lingering in our minds, for it is the first real one of the outing.
Everyone is fairly bubbling over with joy at the change in the
weather and at the appearance of the full moon. "Bill" Yoran
stands there in the center of the natural amphitheatre and
directs us in our fun. The sessions are of nightly occurrence.
Memory fails to make one more attractive than another. Each
one is a success. There is abundant talent in camp. Selections
on violin, mandolin and flute, each in turn delight us. Recita-
tions, solos, scientific lectures, story-telling, mock trials, remin-
iscences of Stevenson, readings from the daily Courzama, limer-
icks, jokes, minstrel shows, dances — a conglomerate mass of
entertainment — give us fun and laughter.
On each day we are up for a seven-thirty breakfast, eager
for the pleasures that offer. There are so many attractive side
trips; to Stevens Ridge, Bench Lake, Indian Henry's, Narada
Falls, Louise Lake, Martha Falls, Camp Muir and Unicorn Peak.
Our days are filled with social events; swimming parties to the
nearby lakes, tea-parties, birthday parties, special "owl" ses-
sions, and dinners and dances at Paradise Inn.
Before many days have passed, groups drift up to the
Finleys' quarters on "Married Hill", where there is an unusual
experience in store for most of us. Here the little wild chip-
munks eat out of our hands, walk the wire and pull up the pea-
nuts suspended from the string in a queer paw-over-paw sailor
fashion. Here Peter is guard and barks joyous greetings to his
many friends. Dog-like, he has adopted us all. Many a laugh
he gives us at the camp-fire, chasing his tail or baying at the
moon.
304 Reminiscences of the Mt. Rainier Outing
It is Sunday morning. At ten o'clock the party gathers in a
flower-covered amphitheatre in the shade of the trees. The day is
perfect. In every direction a marvelous picture of loveliness
meets the eye. Dr. Marcotte, who has just recently climbed to
the top of the mountain, delivers a never-to-be-forgotten sermon
to the assembled group, who will start for the summit in the
afternoon. Surely we know that "God's in His Heaven, all's
right with the world" as we listen to the singing and strains of
the violin out there in the open.
Another Monday is here. In camp, groups gather about,
chattering and laughing. Unconsciously they watch the moun-
tain, eager for a sight of those who are up there putting their
strength to a test. Eighty-three, under the leadership of Mr.
George Riddell, left camp at two o'clock on Sunday afternoon.
The lonely stay-in-camps cannot keep them from their minds. If
said lonely ones could have glimpsed the Forest Service lookout
station at six o'clock on Sunday evening, they would have seen
the group thoroughly enjoying the hot tea served so generously
by Mr. Brunn of the station. A glimpse of the party at Camp
Muir would show them spending a comfortable and cosy night.
What matter the over-zealous pilferings of the rats about the
cabin, except to those who lost their lunch, when the northern
lights are on display in the far horizon, or when one can enjoy
a perfect setting of the moon and a radiant sunrise?
Gibraltar, never in better condition for climbing, is con-
quered, and after hours — or is it years? — of upward striving,
sixty happy and successful climbers gather on the summit
(14,408 feet). Eagerly the well-known peaks are pointed out:
Hood, St. Helens, Adams, Jefferson, Three Sisters, Baker and
Glacier Peak. Such a scene is surely worth the effort of the
climb. There below lie mountains, ridges, valleys and lakes, as
far as the eye can see. How quickly, under the spell of the
mountain, the tired ones recuperate as they linger over the last
crumbs of lunch! Mid-day seems too early for the homeward
start, but the precipitous wall of Gibraltar must be left behind
by two o'clock, for it is at about this hour that the rocks begin
to loosen and fall.
At interesting stretches in the downward climb, as on the
ascent, the "movie" man is ever present. Somehow his mere
presence, with no doubt the extra rest he calls for, seems to
lessen the distance to Camp Muir. Again packs are shouldered
I I
jl
ON COWLITZ GLACIER ON RAINIER
Photo by Boychuk.
' #*
Reminiscences of the Mt. Rainier Outing 305
and old landmarks sighted. At six o'clock everyone is safely
jback in camp.
In happy companionship and recreation one day quickly
follows another. Each has its own thrill, its own joy — yes, and
sorrow too, for the last days of camp are saddened by the loss of
one of our beloved companions, Jack Meredith.
Again we are in the dinner line ; again we are eating crack-
ers and soup as we circle up the hill above the cook tent. Now
we are seated at the long tables, laughing and chattering with
our neighbors. .Some of these neighbors are our guests for the
first time, others have been with us before. Some are members
of other outdoor clubs : Sierra, Colorado, Mountaineers, Forest
and Field. Some are known nationally in the fields of politics,
science and education. All have contributed much to the success
of the outing. We want them to be with us on other trips.
The two weeks are over and we are at home. It is a difficult
task to put down into words what the outing means to us — what
it will mean to us in the days that follow. We know that time
cannot rob us of our happy memories of days spent at camp
Coursen.
LIST OF MEMBERS OF THE MT. RAINIER OUTING WHO REACHED
THE SUMMIT OF MT. RAINIER
Willard Allphin, Portland, Oregon Win. L. Finley, Portland, Oregon
Gertrude Andrae, Portland, Oregon Mrs. Wm. L. Finley, Portland, Ore.
Harold Babb, Portland, Oregon W. C. Foster, Portland, Oregon
Alice Banfield, Portland, Oregon F. G. Franklin, Albany, Oregon
Mae Benedict, Portland, Oregon Margaret E. Fuller, Portland, Ore.
Lee Benedict, Portland, Oregon Bernice Gardner, Portland, Oregon
Clement Blakney, Portland, Oregon Martha Gasch, Portland, Oregon
E. Boehme, Portland, Oregon E. G. Gearhart, Astoria, Oregon
Lulu Bornt, Portland, Oregon Mrs. E. G. Gearhart, Astoria, Oregon
Dorothy Brownell, Portland, Oregon F. Giesecke, Portland, Oregon
Walter Boychuk, Portland, Oregon Mabel R. Girsberger, Chiloquin, Ore.
P. L. Campbell, Eugene, Oregon Olga Hallingby, Portland, Oregon
Randolph S. Carroll, Portland, Ore. George H. Harvey, Denver, Col.
Herbert I. Corning, Portland, Ore. Clarence A. Hogan, Portland, Ore.
Edgar E. Coursen, Portland. Oregon Evelyn Hardinghaus, Portland, Ore.
George H. Currier, Leona, Oregon George Hartness, Portland, Ore.
Balfour Daniels, Princeton, N. J. Hazel Howard, Portland, Oregon
Arthur J. Emmrich, Portland, Ore. Pasho Ivanakeff, Portland, Oregon
William W. Evans, Portland, Oregon Amy Johnston, Portland, Oregon
Fred Everson, Portland, Oregon Marie Koennecke, Portland, Oregon
Th. Fagstad, Cathlamet, Wash. Agnes G. Lawson, Portland, Oregon
306
Reminiscences of the Mt. Rainier Outing
Martha Landis, Portland, Oregon
John A. Lee, Portland, Oregon.
Mary Knapp Lee, Portland, Oregon
Jacques Letz, Portland, Oregon
Harry Libby, Portland, Oregon
Ethel M. Loucks, Portland, Oregon
Georgia Lyon, Chicopee Falls, Mass.
Sallie McCoy, Portland, Oregon
Henry Marcotte, Kansas City, Mo.
Sabina E. Mason, Portland, Ore.
Duncan Moore, Chicago, 111.
J. D. Meredith, Portland, Oregon
O. W. T. Muellhaupt, Portland, Ore.
Arthur H. Marshall, Vancouver, Wn.
Ruth Olson, Portland, Oregon
Katherine Ogilbe, Portland, Oregon
Emily F. Otis, Portland, Oregon
Rose F. Parker, Milwaukie, Oregon
Alfred F. Parker, Portland, Oregon
Jamieson Parker, Portland, Oregon
Edward L. Patzelt, Portland, Oregon
P. G. Payton, Portland, Oregon
Cecil Pendleton, Portland. Oregon
R. A. Perry, Portland, Oregon
E. F. Peterson, Portland, Oregon
R. P. Prentys, Portland, Oregon
Edwin L. Rice, Portland, Oregon
Louis Rice, Portland, Oregon
Cecil Redden, Vancouver, Wash.
Bessie M. Renfro, Portland, Oregon
Joe H. Renfro, Portland, Oregon
Henrik Renstrom, Squantum, Mass.
George X. Riddell, Portland, Oregon
Rose E. Rothe, Bridgeport, Conn.
Minet Sherman, Portland, Oregon
Mary Gene Smith, Portland, Oregon
Gretta Smith, Portland, Oregon
Leotta Smith, Portland, Oregon
Alice M. Tenneson, Yakima, Wash.
Margaret E. Tompkins, Portland, Ore.
Harry Beal Torrey, Portland, Oregon
Elizabeth Torrey, Portland, Oregon
Lyle Turner, Portland, Oregon
George W. Wilder, Portland, Oregon
Robert P. Walsh, St. Louis, Mo.
A. Boyd Williams, Portland, Oregon
Mrs. A. Boyd Williams, Portland, Ore.
L. L. Wilson, Tracy, Calif.
Crissie Young, Portland, Oregon
Ruth Zanders, Portland, Oregon
Oneita Webb, Portland, Oregon
Thin, thin the pleasant human noises grow,
And faint the city gleams;
Rare the lone pastoral huts — marvel not thou !
The solemn peaks but to the stars are known
But to the stars and the cold lunar beams;
Alone the sun arises, and alone
Spring the great streams. — Arnold.
Around the Great West Side
JOHN A. LEE
In 1914 the Mazamas had their summer's outing camp at
Mystic Lake, on the north side of Mt. Rainier. At the con-
clusion of that outing R. L. Glisan, J. Wheelock Marsh and the
writer made a knapsack trip from Mystic Lake to Paradise
Park, going around to the east and following what is known as
the "high trail." An account of this trip by Mr. Glisan, en-
titled "Mystic Lake to Paradise Park," appeared in the "Ma-
zama" of that year. During the course of the outing the writer
had also skirted the mountain to the westward as far as Spray
Park.
Inasmuch as the Mazama camp this year was to be at Par-
adise Park, I decided that the occasion was opportune to con-
nect up the termini of my previous excursions around the
mountain by tramping westerly from Spray Park to Paradise
Park. Since the outing of 1914, a fair "nannie" from the Maz-
ama flock had signed up to travel with me on life's journey, so
that she was my companion on this trip. A game little pal she
proved to be.
On the evening of Friday, August 1, Mrs. Lee and I left
Portland, arriving in Tacoma the morning following and at
Fairfax by noon, where the hike was to begin. We were equip-
ped for all contingencies, for well did I recall having been ma-
rooned in a fog above Cowlitz Canyon on the previous trip, with
huckleberries the party's only rations for the last day. Almost
everything but the "kitchen range" had gone into our packs
and come fog, come rain, come snow, what recked we? When
the heavier of the two packs tipped the scales at 85 pounds at
Fairfax, with full 15 pounds in the lighter pack, it was a bit
disconcerting, we will confess, but pride would not permit the
removal of a single ounce.
The first leg of our journey was to be a hike of 21 miles
over the Grindstone trail to Crater Lake, which lake is situate
somewhat below Spray Park, at an elevation of 5000 feet. The
name of this lake is inappropriate and confusing; the Indian
name of Mowich Lake should receive official recognition. This
first interval we negotiated in two days, camping the first night
at the last crossing of Evans Creek, five miles or so from Fair-
308 Around the Great West Side
fax, and the second in Grindstone cabin, 12 miles out, with fog
and drizzle changing to a downpour of rain ere we reached the
haven of the cabin at Crater Lake. The trail is an old one and
excellent for the most part, though a number of the bridges have
fallen from decay. Except for the first mile out of Fairfax the
trail leads through virgin forest, some of it of splendid stand.
The frowning of the elements we did not mind, as we knew the
days to follow would be the clearer, with the smoke and haze
dispelled; and then the cool air helped us to carry our heavy
packs up the long slope.
Crater Lake, where we bivouacked for two nights, is most
picturesque and a delightful place to camp. The lake is cir-
cular in shape, a half-mile or so in diameter, with one-half of
its circumference girt about with beetling crags and the other
half with alpine groves and heath-clad meadows. In spots
where the heather had not claimed full possession, erythroniums
were blossoming in great profusion.
The air was clear and crisp as we emerged from the cabin
the first morning of our stay at Crater Lake, and there to the
southeast, so near it seemed we might reach out and touch it,
loomed the great white dome of Rainier, with the two Mowich
ice streams leading down. What a different world from that of
the previous day ! The tang in the air impelled to action and the
heights above were calling, in a way that could not be resisted,
"Come up ! Come up !" With breakfast over and lunch and cam-
era in pack, we set out for Spray Park, four miles distant by
trail and a thousand feet higher on the mountain's slope.*
Spray Park is in every way one of the most beautiful of the
many alpine parks on Rainier, but its crowning glory is Spray
Falls. The many little streams that flow down through the park
converge into one of considerable size at the westerly margin of
the park, there to plunge over a precipice of several hundred feet
to form Spray Falls. The water spreads out fan-like as it des-
cends and the effect is most beautiful and impressive.
From the high vantage point of Spray Park we gazed in-
tently at the lofty buttresses bordering the Mowich glaciers,
debating whether on the morrow we should brave those bastions,
*As we neared the park the shrill whistle of a marmot, uttered close to the
trail, brought us to a sudden halt. The cry of this animal, however often heard,
is always a little startling, and deceptive too, if one is not familiar with it, re-
sembling much the whistling of a man. A quick glance enabled us to catch a
glimpse of this interesting rodent with his shaggy coat and grizzled collar as
he scampered into his hole.
Around the Great West Side 309
the most formidable on the mountain, or follow the horse trail
leading to Sunset Park. But with heavy packs to carry we decid-
ed that discretion was the better part of valor. Pinning to a tree
near Spray Falls a message for the Mountaineers, who were to
pass that way in a few days in their circuit of the mountain (a
message we heard from later) , we returned to Crater Lake, and
in the late forenoon of the next day set out over the horse trail
for Sunset Park.
A new trail has been constructed from Crater Lake to the
crossing of the two Mowich streams, which descends by many
switchbacks the north slope of the porth Mowich canyon, some
three miles down to the stream, and saves the long ten mile de-
tour around by Meadow Creek. In the exhilaration of the des-
cent after so much of "upping," we fairly loped over the springy
turf of the newly-made trail. Yes, we would have to ascend on
the other side of the canyon, and on that same day too, every one
of those more than two thousand feet of descent, but that was
something for the future — after luncheon; now we were going
down, "on high."
As we started, the music of the river, far down below, was
wafted up to us in subdued undertone ; swelling gradually as we
descended, it burst into a mighty diapason as we came out upon
the boulder-strewn bed of this mad Mowich stream. The trail
crosses the two forks only a few rods above their confluence
and, thanks to new bridges just completed by the National Park
Service, we soon were across both streams and at luncheon by a
crystal clear rivulet in the cool of the canyon. An eight-inch
trout darted down from under my pail as I was dipping water
for our meal.
After a hearty luncheon and a good rest, for the day was
warm, we started on the toilsome climb up to Sunset Park. We
had lunched on the 2700-foot contour and the highest point in
Sunset Park, on the trail, is 5200 feet. So 2500 feet of elevation
and seven miles of distance were to be our stint for the after-
noon— as we thought, not reckoning with that bane of the moun-
taineer, the festive mosquito. But later as to this pestiferous
little imp of Satan.
What pleasure is there, say you, in lifting oneself, plus a
heavy pack, foot by foot up a steep mountain trail? Even more
pertinent is your query if the trail leads, as did this one, through
an unbroken forest, with no outlook save an occasional glimpse
of the tree tops across the canyon. The answer is simple. It is
Around the Great West Side 311
then that you feel to the fullest the joy of rugged health, the
satisfaction in the assurance that you are equal to the game.
You drink deep of the cool air redolent with the incense of the
forest, forcing it down with every breath into the very last lung
cell. You must stop frequently to cool off and rest, and this af-
fords opportunity for reflection. A sense of freedom, of inde-
pendence, steals over you, almost the completest that one can
feel in this world of complex human relationships and inter-
dependencies. For with your bed and grub and house upon
your back, you can camp, if you choose, where night overtakes
you. And if night travel suits your fancy (and that of your
partner in the game), what is there to say you nay? And then
if you have been taught to observe, and particularly if you have
given a little attention to botany and tree study, there is much
to be seen in the forest to add to the joy of living.
On this particular climb we started in the belt of alder,
vine maple, Douglas fir, white fir (abies grandus). West-
ern red cedar and Western hemlock. Soon these species were
displaced, as we ascended, by noble fir, lovely fir, and Western
white pine, though the change was not abrupt but gradual. And
then as we came out into the open park land on the summit of
the ridge, these species in turn gave way to alpine fir, mountain
hemlock, white-bark pine and Alaska cedar. The fruitage of all
these conifers had been unusually bountiful the previous year
and everywhere along the trail the seeds had taken root and were
sending up their delicate cotyledons to struggle for existence
alongside the parent trees.
With the steep ridge surmounted we soon were among the
Golden Lakes. These were a disappointment. In the first place
they proved to be merely shallow little snow lakes, formed in
depressions of the ground from the melting of the snow and
gradually receding. But worst of all, they were breeding ponds
of myriads of mosquitoes, and hungry varmints they were too.
Lingering not, we hurried on to Sunset Park proper, hoping
that there we might find refuge from their vigorous onslaughts
and a well earned rest. But it was not to be ; the little demons
pursued us still. And beautiful as was the verdure of the park,
tired though we were, and with the shades of night fast falling,
we could find no running water close about, so after a hurried
consultation (still under fire), we continued on the trail down
another long slope toward the North Puyallup River, intending
to camp at the first stream. Two lusty rivulets were encoun-
312 Around the Great West Side
tered, but both flowing in sharp ravines down the steep slope, so
aided by a friendly moon and our electric "bug," we paused not
until we had made the complete drop of 2200 feet down to the
North Puyallup river. A neat Ittle shelter cabin with plenty
of new moss in the bunks was there to welcome us, and tired as
we were and late the hour, we were not loath to accept of its hos-
pitality. We had made fifteen miles with our packs since 10 a. m.
that day, including 2500 feet of climb and 5500 of descent. A
hurried fire and some hot soup and then the sweet slumber of
the weary hiker.
We were awakened on the morrow by the sound of voices
and two curious faces peering into our cabin door. These early
morning visitors proved to be two gentlemen from the Co-opera-
tive Campers at Indian Henry's Hunting Ground, Francken and
Bjorklund by name, who were on their way to Sunset Park
and had camped that night a short distance from our cabin.
They were the first wayfarers we had met since leaving Fairfax.
After a few friendly exchanges they proceeded on their way
and we to prepare a substantial breakfast and survey the scene
about us. Dense forest met our gaze on every side save a small
open space about the cabin. The elevation was 3000 feet.
Weary of so much up and down work, we determined that
shortly we would leave the horse trail and, for the remainder
of the distance to our destination, would attempt the "high trail"
across the glaciers. Our best route, however, was to follow the
horse trail until we had rounded Klapatche Ridge and then take
the "snake trail" up to St. Andrew's Park, which we expected to
reach that day. Our start was late, for we were loath to leave
this restful little nook in the forest.
An hour's climb up Klapatche Ridge brought us to Raeburn
Point, from which we could survey the Puyallup Glacier with
its spectacular ice falls and could catch a glimpse too of St. An-
drew's Park. The Puyallup Glacier is the source of the North
Puyallup river, on the banks of which stream we had spent the
night. Having encircled Klapatche Ridge, we stopped on the
trail for our afternoon tea. Here our friends of the morning
overtook us and were persuaded to accompany us to St. Andrew's
Park. Right clever chaps they showed themselves to be.
At the first crossing of St. Andrew's Creek, after having
left the horse trail, we came upon the camp of a crew of men
who were engaged in building a new trail up to St. Andrew's
Park and were hurrying construction so as to have the trail
1— Spray Falls
3 — Mother Ptarmigan and Chick.
5_— On Neva of North Tahoma Glacier.
2 — On the Kautz Glacier.
4 — Mrs. Lee on the North Tahoma Glacier.
6 — North Tahoma Glacier and "The Island"
1 — Indian Henry's Hunting Ground. 2 — Upper portion of North Tahoma Glacier.
3 — Giberalter from Ranger's Cabin.
4. Seracs and Neve of the North Tahoma Glacier. 5. Seracs of the Kautz Glacier.
Around the Great West Side 313
ready for the coming of the Mountaineers. The small portion
then completed was of no avail to us, so we struck out on the
old "snake trail," which the blazes enabled us to follow. The
climb was stiff, but steady plugging brought us to a delightful
camp site on the first bench of the park, just at nightfall.
St. Andrew's Park is little known to the tourist because of
its relatively secluded situation, but it will easily rank as one
of the three or four most beautiful of the many beauty spots on
Rainier. The park consists of three distinct benches, rising one
above the other at intervals of perhaps five hundred feet, the
topmost bench having an elevation of about 6500 feet. The
outlook to the north is across Puyallup Glacier to the frowning
battlements of the Colonnade Cleaver, which separates this
glacier from the South Mowich Glacier, still farther to the north ;
to the south, across the great Tahoma glaciers to Pyramid Peak
and Indian Henry's Hunting Ground. Glacier Island, a high
spectacular crag, is set right in the middle of the broad ice
stream of Tahoma Glacier as it descends from the mountain's
summit, dividing the glacier into two parts, designated as the
North Tahoma Glacier and the South Tahoma Glacier.
Our friends, after some wavering, decided they would not
attempt the trip with us across the Tahoma glaciers the next
morning, so after a few small exchanges of provisions and
hearty western hand-clasps, we parted company ; they to descend
to the horse trail and follow it back to Indian Henry's, and we
to continue on our selected course, up through the park and
thence across the glaciers to Pyramid Peak and Indian Henry's.
Climbing leisurely from bench to bench and enjoying the many
beauties of the park, the noon hour found us at the extreme limit
of trees, where we stopped for lunch. From this high lookout
station we were able to map out our course in detail and it was
decided that the most feasible route, as well as the most interest-
ing would be to cross the glacier above Glacier Island, though
this meant traversing a full two mile stretch of ice, all of which
was absolutely new to us. The north wall of the canyon below
Glacier Island rose high above the glacier and appeared to be an
abrupt precipice that could not be descended except by aero-
plane ; an appearance which was borne out by closer inspection
later. It was plain also that it would be foolhardy to attempt
a crossing before the morrow, with the day already so far
spent. So dropping down to a fringe of timber on the brink of
the canyon we made an early camp.
314 Around the Great West Side
We were off in good season the next morning. Skirting
along the slope of Puyallup Cleaver to reach the point selected
for our descent upon the glacier, a big billygoat all at once be-
came silhouetted against the sky, upon the very crest of the
Cleaver. He was not far distant, but too far to show up in a
picture. His appearance was not entirely unexpected, for
numerous tracks and occasional tufts of wool clinging to the
stunted trees had shown that we were now in "goat country."
Almost at the same instant a mother ptarmigan with quite
young chicks appeared in our path. They sauntered off leisure-
ly as we drew near, all being garbed in their summer's coat of
brown.
The approach to the glacier proved even better than we
had anticipated and the glacier itself, up as far as the crest be-
hind Glacier Island, was less steep and less badly crevassed than
we had supposed it would be. We made good time up to this
point, though stopping frequently to get our breath and to take
an occasional picture. The southerly half of the glacier proved
not quite so easy to negotiate. By making a slight drop from
the crest behind the island we had thought to push straight
across on contour, but great seracs and bergschrunds were en-
countered, blocking our way.
It was at this point that the writer was treated to the most
thrilling half -moment experienced on the whole trip. At the
head of a steep slope leading down to where the glacier dropped
off for a good five hundred feet, my wife sat down to change the
film in her camera. Setting the camera down beside her on the
ice, it took a start and went gliding down the slope. Quick as
a flash she gave herself a shove and went sliding down in the
wake of her cherished possession, making rapid little hitches
so as to accelerate her speed and overtake the fast-moving ob-
ject. I felt a chill come over me as I realized the situation. As
soon as voice could be found to speak, I cried out, "Let the cam-
era go." But those little hitches still went on with clock-like
regularity. Now thoroughly alarmed, I repeated, in the loudest
and most commanding tone I could assume, "Let that camera
go!" Shortly her hand seized the camera, and, rolling over on
her face and digging in her toes in approved mountaineering
form, she came to a stop within a few yards of the brink of the
precipice. As I met her on the slope and she noted the still
anxious, and perhaps severe, expression on my face, she re-
marked, with the utmost sang-froid and with a smile and a
Around the Great West Side 315
jaunty toss of her head, "Well, I got the camera !" No more was
said, but somehow the words of the old saw thrust themselves
into my consciousness, "Where ignorance is bliss, 'tis folly to
be wise," to be displaced shortly by that more cheerful, not to
say more considerate philosophy, "All's well that ends well."
Climbing back to the crest of the glacier behind the island,
we now pursued a diagonal course up and across the broad neve,
threading our way among numerous crevasses, some of them of
huge proportions, watching closely to avoid the slightest sign of
"blind" ones, picking our steps carefully when the ice tongue
betwen them was narrow, until finally we came out upon Suc-
cess Cleaver, the southerly rim of the glacier, at about the 8200
foot contour and just at dusk. The cleaver is very narrow at
this point and protrudes only slightly above the two glaciers
which it separates, the Tahoma on the north, which we had
crossed, and the Pyramid Glacier on the south. Crossing the
cleaver and glissading rapidly down the steep though unbroken
surface of Pyramid Glacier, we made welcome camp in Pyramid
Park.
We were now, at this camp, only a short distance off the
most direct "high line" route from Indian Henry's to Paradise
Park. So, without breaking camp, we set out the next morning,
which was Sunday and the eighth day since leaving Fairfax, to
have a look at the much vaunted beauties of Indian Henry's;
also to pay our respects to the Co-operative Campers, of whom
Francken and Bjorklund had told us much. On the way over we
followed the south route around Puyallup Peak; we took the
north route on our return, finding the latter the better and more
direct.
Though expecting much of Indian Henry's, we were not
disappointed; except as to one circumstance, and fortunately
one not always present; the winged pests from which we had
fled in Sunset Park were here in countless hordes. The setting
and verdure of the park are exquisite; and the view of the
mountain that one gets from Indian Henry's is, to my mind,
unsurpassed. At the Co-operative Campers' we found our com-
ing had been expected and we were most hospitably received
by Mr. and Mrs. Danilson, the managers of the camp. We re-
gretted though, not to meet again our two friends of the trail,
who chanced to be absent for the day.
Spending a second night in our cosy little camp in Pyramid
Park, we set out early next morning on the last leg of our jour-
316 Around the Great West Side
ney, realizing it might mean a long day to complete it. We
planned to cross high up on the Krautz Glacier, as we had done
on the Tahoma, so as to avoid the sharp walls of the canyon far-
ther down. This would necessitate leaving Van Trump Park
some distance below us, a matter of regret, as we had hoped to
take in every feature of interest along our route. But the trip
had been prolonged to one of greater duration than we had
planned and we were anxious now to get in to Mazama Camp,
in time at least to make the ascent of the mountain before the
camp should disband.
Selecting the point of junction of the Success and Kautz
glaciers as the most likely crossing of the Kautz, we headed
straight for it. Thi$ course took us over an arm of Pyramid
Glacier and at one resting place near the glacier some fair pic-
tures of ptarmigan were obtained. Passing just below the end
of the cleaver separating the Pyramid and Success glaciers, we
stepped out upon the Kautz at the precise point chosen for the
crossing. The prospect was not altogether inviting. The dis-
tance to be traversed to gain the other side was not great and
the opposite wall not especially declivitous, but everywhere, in
front of us and up and down, the glacier presented a tumbled,
jumbled mass of seracs, piled high in endless confusion. Then
too, the occasional moans and groans that would be wafted up
from the ice depths below created a sort of uncanny feeling, a
sense that this might, indeed, be the Esquimaux's inferno. Fin-
ally, by picking our way a few hundred feet farther up along
the broken surface of the glacier, a way through was discovered
and we had lunch on Wapowety Cleaver, at about the 8500-foot
contour.
Striking out across the cleaver on to Van Trump Glacier,
we soon were enveloped in a dense fog. This was by no means
encouraging, as our larder was now almost nil and would scarce-
ly have yielded one scanty meal. After a half -hour's chilly wait
the fog lifted so that we could see something of what lay before
us and then we made rapid progress down and across the gen-
erally smooth surface of this glacier. The fog closed down
again while we were still on the glacier, but we kept on, watch-
ing carefully to keep our course, until finally we bumped into
an abrupt rock wall at the glacier's southerly rim. After some
search for a pass this obstacle was surmounted and there below
us, shimmering in the bright sunlight, was the welcome Nis-
qually Glacier. Far across we could make out Sluskin Falls,
Around the Great West Side 317
pouring in feathery foam over the high east rim of Paradise
Valley; and a little way to the right, on Mazama Ridge, could
be discerned the white tents of Mazama Camp. Having just
emerged from a wilderness of fog, we could well appreciate
how Moses of old must have felt as he looked out upon the pro-
mised land.
To have dropped down to the Nisqually Glacier immediately
in front of where we stood would have brought us to a difficult
and perhaps impossible crossing, and besides would have meant
the loss of much elevation that would have had to be regained on
the other side. But some distance above and to our left and al-
most opposite McClure Rock on the further side could be ob-
served what appeared to be a most excellent way across, with
an approach, though steep, that seemed entirely feasible.
Having feasted our eyes to the full on the wonderful pano-
rama spread out before us, which included, of course, the Ta-
toosh peaks and St. Helens and Adams beyond, we hastened on.
Shortly we were attracted by a scene below that caused us again
to pause. There on a grassy slope and not more than a quarter
of a mile away a band of fourteen goats, five adults and the rest
kids and yearlings, were grazing as peacefully as if in a f armer's
meadow. After gazing for some minutes at this quiet pastoral
scene we attempted to approach to within photographic range,
but without success. Soon the nearest of the adults was observed
to look intently for an instant in our direction and then to walk
quietly over into the midst of the herd, when presto, as if by
one impulse, the whole herd began to form in file and move
smoothly toward the glacier; and then, as a little ridge was
gained, they broke into a rapid run and soon were gone. Much
disappointed, we continued on our course and, skirting the slope,
had just reached a point where we expected to drop down to the
selected point of crossing, when there again came our goats, this
time apparently oblivious of our presence though much nearer
and moving in long calvacade up and across the steep snow field.
It was now too dark for a picture but we stood and watched
them until they disappeared from view among the seracs of
Wilson Glacier, which here joins the Nisqually.
The snow slope leading down to the glacier was long and
for a distance very steep. To zigzag down it would have re-
quired a half -hour at least and the evening shadows were fast
lengthening. By glissading we could do it with much more ease
and in a small fraction of the time. Turning to my companion,
318 Around the Great West Side
who had been ever ready on the trip to tackle any venture that
was suggested, I remarked, "Mary, are you game?" "Yes, if you
think it's safe," came the answer promptly. On the instant
we were off and in scarcely more time than it takes to tell it
were on the glacier. My wife had take the steep slope like a
veteran, not once losing her feet.
Once out upon the glacier we found the going excellent, as
safe and easy as any boulevard, and soon were across. In cross-
ing we had diagonalled downward slightly so as to strike the
opposite canon wall where it was the least high and steep and
this brought us quite near to Panorama Point. A long and
tedious climb out of the canon, a rapid traverse of the moraines
and snow fields below McClure Rock, then of Paradise Glacier,
and we were in the Mazama Camp. The hour was 9 :30 and
darkness had come.
The first group of tents that we encountered chanced to be
those of the Montagues, Finleys, Brewsters, Torreys and Dr.
Marcotte. Intercepted, as we were passing, by these worthy folk,
we were made to partake of the good things in the way of pro-
vender that they had in private stock, to all of which, as may be
guessed, we did full justice. Then with a fanfare of trumpets
heralding our approach (in reality the clarion voices of Messrs.
Marcotte, Finley and Montague in well assumed burlesque) we
were ushered blushingly before the Mazama camp-fire. After
listening to a brief recital of our trip, the camp-fire session,
which had been about to conclude its program, adjourned; and
we to rest and sleep.
We had been nine and one-half days on the trip from Fair-
fax, had lived out of our knapsacks all that time without re-
plenishment (except a pound of sugar and a half-pound of but-
ter obtained at Indian Henry's), had crossed seven glaciers, had
made in the aggregate 20,000 feet of elevation, and had hiked a
total distance of 80 miles. A strenuous trip, say you? Yes, it
was; but it was worth while.
With the Birds and Animals of Rainier
By WILLIAM L. FINLEY
State Biologist of Oregon
The fun of studying wild birds and animals with a note
book or camera is not so much in odd time chances of observa-
tion, but in continued periods of leisure, so you can spend your
entire time about the bird homes and in the haunts of wild ani-
mals, just as one takes a vacation at the seashore. The joy of
nature comes to the amateur, not to the professional. But to
get good photographs of shy creatures, one has fairly to make a
business of lying in wait for his subjects hour after hour, or
maybe week after week.
We were camped at Indian Henry's Hunting Ground on the
west slope of Mt. Rainier early in July. The snow still covered
the ground everywhere except in a few patches under tree
clumps. On July 10, Flett, Hungate and Jewett were scouting
for mountain goats up over Pyramid Peak and by chance they
nearly stepped on a white-tailed ptarmigan sitting on her eggs.
Next morning we loaded the moving picture camera on a pack
horse and started for the nest. It was over the snow the entire
way, but not a difficult climb except in one rather steep place
when we got well up on the side of Pyramid Peak. When we
approached the nest, the bird was not at home. The nest was
in a patch of heather at the base of a big rock on the steep slope.
We went on above to a level place, unloaded and sat down to
wait. In half an hour I looked over the edge of the rock and the
mother had returned to her eggs.
We moved around cautiously a little distance away, snap-
ping the camera at nothing in particular and pretending we
did not know anything about the ptarmigan's nest. I don't know
whether the old lady on the eggs was deceived or not, but we
approached nearer and nearer, until I sat down within eight
feet.
Birds differ a good deal in individuality. Sometimes one will
stand for a good deal, but at other times we find a fussy indi-
vidual that is too particular about her home affairs. This is
why a camera man has to go very cautiously and use a good
deal of patience. After we had tried several exposures, I moved
the motion picture camera up within shooting distance. It is
320 With the Birds and Animals of Rainier
an ungainly cyclops-eyed looking monster that any ordinary
fowl might be afraid of, but I soon found Mother Ptarmigan
thought her first duty was to hold the fort regardless of all in-
vaders.
She sat flattened in the heather and although her gray mot-
tled plumage was no match for green in color, yet with the lights
and shadows in the heather and backed with a big gray rock, I
would have defied any person to see her if he had not known the
spot. Her sharp eyes watched every move we made as camera
after camera — there were only four — moved nearer on her home.
It is fortunate for a camera hunter that some birds and
animals live far up on the mountain sides or in deep woods
where they really do not know how dangerous a man is. We
put the lady of the party forward for a closer interview. She
knelt down at four feet and put her hand slowly forward in
friendly greeting. Inside of ten minutes the hand was within
four inches of Mrs. Ptarmigan's bill, with the moving picture
camera clicking off a footage that seemed rather wasteful. But
in taking moving pictures one has to keep on grinding, for you
never know just when something good is going to happen.
As the hand moved nearer, the bird on the nest began to
cluck softly, almost inaudibly, showing that she did not like to
be bothered. But when her feathers were stroked gently she was
much more docile than an ordinary setting hen, for she did not
show fight.
The main enemies of the snow grouse or ptarmigan here on
the high mountain side are not men with guns, but perhaps
hawks and eagles that occasionally fly over. The ptarmigan is
best known because of its changing plumage, which is a good
example of protective coloration. In the winter when the whole
country is snow covered, it is dressed in pure white to match the
snow fields, but in summer its body is clothed in a speckled dress
of brown and white. The under part of the tail and the wings
remain in pure white even in summer. When it crouches among
the rocks it is difficult to see. As a rule the eye catches a bird
only when it is moving.
Then Mrs. Finley reached under and took out one of the
eggs, but the bird mother did not seem to care. When it was
laid down in front of her she reached out her bill and pulled it
back under her breast with an expression that plainly said, "Any
woman ought to know that you can't hatch out a chick without
keeping the egg warm."
1— Mother Ptarmigan on nest. PvramH Peak, above Indian Henry's
o2"^?6^ and Eg8.s of White-tailed Ptarmigan on Rainier.
—Mother Ptarmigan hovering young, Mazama Ridge.
Photos by Wm. L. and Irene Finley.
1-7-Cony, commonly called Rock Rabbit.
2 — Varying Hare or Snowshoe Rabbit at Longmire.
— Young Water Ouzel or Dipper.
4 — Moss Nest of the Water Ouzel or Dipper.
Photos by Wm. L. and Irene Finley.
With the Birds and Animals of Rainier 321
Then to show us that she knew her business, although sur-
rounded by a battery of cameras and four people, she reached
under and turned her eggs, for this, too, is an important part of
bringing off a family of chicks.
A few minutes later when the moving picture camera was
within three feet of her it was being reloaded and one of the
magazines slipped with a loud click. She must have thought it
was going to explode, for she jumped to one side and went walk-
ing off among the rocks. She seemed rather glad to have a little
rest from household affairs, for she fell to preening her feathers
and then started eating the blossoms and buds of the white
heather. I judged by the way she snapped them off that they
were one of the main items on her bill of fare. This gave us
good additional material for photographs.
Fifteen minutes was long enough for the eggs to be un-
covered, but her home was surrounded by cameras and people.
She executed a flank movement, walked around from above and
slipped in on her nest, giving the eggs another good turning over
as she fluffed out her feathers and settled down again to business.
A few weeks later while we were camped on Mazama Ridge,
late one foggy afternoon Mrs. McClain rushed up to our tent and
said : "Come on with your camera. I want to show you a ptar-
migan and her chicks." She led the way up the trail about a
hundred yards and there was an old mother ptarmigan hovering
over a family of chicks. She, too, seemed unafraid of people,
as we edged toward her very slowly. I could see she did not want
to move and let her children get out in the could. She permitted
us to get within four or five feet of her and so finish our series
of ptarmigan pictures with not only a mother on the nest, but
also with her family of chicks.
We were camped at Indian Henry's for five days, from July
9 to July 13, and had a very good chance to study bird life in
that locality. The Biological Survey of the Department of Agri-
culture is co-operating with the National Park Service of the
Department of the Interior to publish a popular report on the
wild birds and animals of Rainier National Park. Our party
at Indian Henry's was working up the field material for this
report. The plan which was carried out was to spend the entire
summer circling the mountain, camping and making cross sec-
tion surveys from lower to higher altitudes. The expedition was
managed by Dr. Walter P. Taylor, Assistant Biologist to the Bio-
logical Survey of Washington, D. C. Another member of the
322 With the Birds and Animals of Rainier
party at Indian Henry's was J. B. Flett, who has been Park
Ranger for seven years. He was formerly with the Department
of Botany of the Tacoma High School. He is an expert on the
flora of the park and has published a very interesting pamphlet
printed by the Department of the Interior, entitled "Features of
the Flora of Mt. Rainier National Park." William T. Shaw is
Professor of Zoology at the State College at Washington, former
instructor in zoology at Oregon Agricultural College. J. W.
Hungate is in charge of the Department of Biology of the State
Normal School at Cheney, Washington. Stanley G. Jewett,
Predatory Animal Inspector of the Biological Survey, George
Cantwell, Field Assistant of the Biological Survey, Mr. and Mrs.
William L. Finley, William L. Jr. and Phoebe Katherine Finley
comprised the rest of the party.
After a short stay at Longmire, the next regular camp was
made at Reflection Lake. Paradise Valley and the nearby points
of interest are visited by almost every person who enters the
park. So perhaps more attention was paid this region than any
other part of the park, as people in general will want to know
especially the wild creatures of this section.
Another creature that, like the ptarmigan, has a change of
coat for the seasons is the varying hare or snowshoe rabbit. He
has the brown fur in summer, but changes to the white in winter.
However, it is interesting to note that in some of the localities
of western Washington and Oregon the snowshoe rabbit does
not change to the white coat of winter. This is especially true
of regions where there is little snow.
Ordinarily the snowshoe rabbit is very shy in the woods,
but where protected he soon becomes acquainted with man. At
Longmire, I counted twelve or fifteen snowshoe rabbits around
the hotel and some of the other buildings. Some of these seem
to have a home under the tent platforms. At the ranger's cabin,
Mr. Flett fed two during last winter when they stayed most of
the time under the cabin, and they were quite tame. I saw one
of these several times and once or twice got up within about
twelve feet of him. As he went hopping off leisurely he remind-
ed me very much of a toy hobby horse, as his big padded hind
feet rolled up as he jumped.
We of course expected to find the American dipper or water
ouzel along these mountain cascades. One day Mrs. Finley and I
were standing at the Third Crossing bridge over Paradise River
when we saw a water ouzel carrying food. Mrs. Finley went on
1 — Taking a Chiprrc-k.
2 — "Gimme that nut."
3 — "Chippv" getting a nut that has been tied a little too high.
Photos by Wm. L. and Irene Fmley.
1 — View of Mt. Rainier from Indian Henry's.
2 — Mt. Rainier from Indian Henry's.
3 — Mt. Rainier from Indian Henry's.
With the Birds and Animals of Rainier 323
one side of the stream and I on the other up to the falls just
above the bridge. I discovered a spot on the ooposite side under
a rock at the side of the falls where I saw a nest. It was a big
mossy ball with a hole in the side, a typical home of the bird.
We soon discovered that this was either an earlier nest of the
present season or a nest from last year.
The main stream about fifty yards above the bridge drops
over a rock wall perhaps twenty-five feet high. On the right
side there is a narrow space of some four inches between the
wall and the water. To our surprise, we discovered that the
birds were carrying food, lighting on a jutting point in the rock
wall and then fluttering along through this narrow space in
under the main volume of water. It seemed impossible that
there could be any place for a nest with such a great amount of
water pouring over the rock.
The conditions showed very clearly that the birds had built
the nest earlier in the season when the volume of water was
smaller. It was impossible to get a sight of it from any angle,
but it was very likely on a little shelf. With the melting snows,
the water had increased and the old birds were nearly shut off
from an entrance. The nest must have been in the dripping
water, but the young birds were perhaps nearly grown so they
could survive the flood. With the main current of the falling
waters just missing the nest, the young birds would have to wait
until they were expert on the wing to ever get out from under
the heavy falls. By tying the camera to a small tree just at the
edge of the cliff and pointing it down, we got some pictures of
the old birds going in and out.
One of the impressions a person gets in the higher moun-
tains is a lack of bird life. Yet if he keeps his eyes and ears
open he is likely to discover birds that are shy and not seen by
the ordinary observer. Of the hundreds or thousands of people
passing over this Third Crossing bridge, perhaps not a single
one during the summer season discovered the nest of a hermit
thrush in the branches of a scrub fir that hung down from the
top of a rock wall a few feet above the rushing waters and not
more than twenty feet from the railing of the bridge. Standing
on the bridge, we could watch the male and female feeding the
young birds.
By climbing the rock six or eight feet I could get a foothold
on a flat stone but could not stand up on account of the over-
hanging rocks. Both the parent thrushes were feeding young
324 With the Birds and Animals of Rainier
birds that were about a week old. They were shy at first and
we had to sit crouched down for quite a while to get the birds
used to our being so near the nest. They perched in the branches
above and did not dare to go to the nest. After staying around
the vicinity for three days and making frequent visits, we were
on intimate terms with both birds. We found the shyness in
the thrushes was an indication of their finer nature. We enjoy-
ed visiting them and trying to get some good pictures.
While we were camped at the west end of Reflection Lake, we
had a good chance to study conies and marmots in a big rock
slide a hundred yards or so up the trail to the west. Here the
boulders and slabs have shaled off a rocky cliif , making a typical
home for these animals. Just west of the slide in the woods, we
found a fair sized colony of mountain beaver.
The sewellel, commonly called the mountain beaver, is not
related to and does not resemble an ordinary beaver except per-
haps in its gnawing capacity. It does not inhabit the water,
although it lives in moist places often near the water. A typical
place where I saw a large colony of these animals is on the north
side of Wahtum Lake near the upper end. The mountain beaver is
something like the marmot or woodchuck, but it has a very short
tail, small round eyes and long whiskers. It hunts and feeds
at night time and as a rule stores up its supply of food for the
winter by cutting the leaves and green twigs and letting them
dry or cure.
The rock slide was inhabited by an old female hoary mar-
mot and three young. The animal is well named because of its
silver-gray back. It is rather sluggish in habit, but lopes about
with ease over the rocks. The movement looks very much like
that of a bear. This mother had a loud whistle that reminded
me very much of that used by one boy to call another. As we
approached, the mother used this as a signal to warn her chil-
dren to get down under the rocks out of danger.
The habit of this old marmot was to feed during the early
morning, but as soon as the sun was well up her greatest pleas-
ure was to stretch out on a flat rock and take a sun bath. Her
favorite food seemed to be bunch grass. Sometimes she would
go around and clear up to the top of the cliff; at other times I
saw her feeding down below the trail in the woods. The mother
was not very wild, but cautious and always extremely anxious
about her young when we were near the slide. One morning she
was on the big flat rock, her favorite sunning place. One of the
With the Birds and Animals of Rainier 325
little marmots climbed up where she was. I was about forty
feet away. She was uneasy. She pushed him over by putting
her nose under one of his front legs, then picked him up in her
mouth, just like an old cat picks up a kitten, except she had him
by the side of the body. As she raised him up he curled in a
ball and I saw her carry him ten or twelve feet over the rocks
and down into a crevice. I think she was just weaning her
young, for occasionally I saw her carrying a mouthful of grass
from up the hillside down over the rocks.
There were a number of conies, commonly called rock rab-
bits, living in the big slide. The first day. I saw one about thirty
feet above me. He was coming down the rock with a big mouth-
ful of grass. The grass was four or five inches long, carefully
placed and held in his mouth like a small bundle. He had the
root ends in his mouth; it stuck out on one side like a long
moustache.
The cony looks like a little gray guinea pig. An interesting
part of his life is his habit of making hay during the summer.
He cuts grass and tender twigs, which are dried in the sun, and
then stored away under a slab of rock for the winter. I have
often seen his hay smoothly stored in little cocks very much
resembling the hay in a farmer's field, except for size.
We had no sooner pitched our tent on Mazama Ridge than
a little chipmunk ran up the tree where I was standing and sat
looking down curiously as if to enquire what we had come for.
He watched me as I nailed up an old box against the tree for a
cupboard. As soon as we had stacked in our provisions, he
called in all the neighbors and they began gnawing open and
carrying off whatever was available. Fortunately, we discover-
ed the raid made on the nuts in our dunnage bags before they
were all gone. We decided after that they would work for any
nuts they got.
I tied a string to a peanut and soon Chippy was running
along after it as a cat tries to catch a spool. At first he would
sit and open up the nut and store the kernels away in his cheeks.
After a nut was pulled away from him a few times, his first
idea was to cut the string and carry the whole thing away.
Chippy was ambitious to get a nut no matter where it was.
He soon learned to walk ropes and a slack wire as easily as he
could go from branch to branch. I next hung some nuts on a
long string attached to the slack wire. They were within a few
inches of the ground. I thought perhaps he would climb down
326 With the Birds and Animals of Rainier
the string to get the nuts. He tried to reach them from the
ground, but finding it impossible, Chippy ascended the tree and
walked the slack wire. When he came to the long string with
the nut dangling at the end he did the simplest thing possible —
hauled the string up hand over hand to get the nut. He soon
learned that nuts grew on strings and he went around camp
hauling up every string that he came to.
All of which furnished a fair amount of work for Chippy
and some amusement for the Mazamas who gathered around.
MOUNT RAINIER
Something untrodden in the routine dust
Of unconcerned humanity, something
Unclaimed, some spot yet sacred, undefiled,
Above, beyond the daily round of form,
Still native, free, and pure— such seekest thou,
0 idle dreamer? Yonder turn thy gaze
To that intrepid peak which fills the sky;
To human eyes still changeful, whether in
The hueless lights of cold and unsunned dawn,
Or in the warmer tints of brilliant sunsets;
Yet endlessly the same, uplifted — aye,
Unmoved, most strong, unmindful of the storms
Of human fate and human destiny.
Fact visible of God invisible,
And mile-post of His way, perpetual
And snowy tabernacle of the land ;
While purples at thy base this peaceful sea,
And all thy higher slopes in evening bathe,
1 hear soft twilight voices calling down
From all thy summits unto prayer and love.
— Francis Brooks.
"Views of Tatoosh Range from Mazama Ridge, with Mt. Adams in the distance.
• — By Boychuk.
TIII-: MKI.JI-: I--KOM THI-: WKST.
Photo by Munroe Thorington.
Dauphine Days
J. MUNROE THORINGTON
American Ambulance, France
More than half a century has passed since Edward Whym-
per and a few others brought us pen pictures of the little known
Alpine district of the Dauphine. The region has continued to
be one which is comparatively rarely visited and the descriptive
literature is restricted to a few tourist booklets and to the more
accurate though less entertaining Alpine guide books. It has
therefore seemed not entirely out of place to record these recol-
lections of a war-time holiday.
While the writer professes to be one of those whose chief
joy consists in finding the "wrong way up" to some airy spire,
he also unashamedly acknowledges the charm of a perfect moun-
tain landscape as seen from the valley. From this less exalted
point of view, contrast is essential, and the memory picture of
a Dauphine valley with harvesters on the hillside, a lake with
cattle, a little age-old stone chapel and snowy peaks that tower
ever upward will last when the afterglow of many another moun-
taineering experience has faded beyond remembrance.
We had served in a base hospital during the Champagne
drive (1917) and our good fortune had brought us into Paris
on that day of days when the first American troops paraded.
In a week of little medical work, we had even sneaked away to
Chamonix for some days on Mont Blanc and the aiguilles. It
was these events which formed the background for a last few
days in the mountains, and the Dauphine was the region of our
choice.
Leaving Paris on the night express, the next morning found
us in Grenoble on our way to La Grave. Our party of three,
including a U. S. lieutenant, my brother and myself, was increas-
ed by the addition of a Scotch captain just down from Arras and
bound for Turin. Our lieutenant held the distinction of bring-
ing the first American uniform to this part of France, his broad-
brimmed campaign hat conspicuously in contrast with the blue-
tam-o'-shanters of the "blue devils" of this district. My brother
and I were in the uniform of the American Ambulance, and, with
our Scotch reinforcement, it is not surprising that certain small
boys constantly followed us about.
328 Dauphine Days
it was late in the season and we were quite alone in the
P.L.M. motor as we rolled out of the old university city built
high up on the hillsides of the Isere valley. Ahead of us in the
distance the snow peaks of the Belladonna group rose blue grey
in the morning mist of a clear September day. Taking the
Briaricon road, we soon reached the sleepy little town of Vizille
with its picturesque chateau, known historically as the cradle
of the French revolution, and in another hour arrived in Bourg
d'Oisans. In the main street our progress was held up for a
number of reasons, including a flock of geese, a balky mule and
a little puffing train loaded with logs. The mixup looked hope-
less, so we dismounted to walk about while the debris was being
cleared. German prisoners engaged in construction work along
the road eyed us curiously as we passed and noted the American
uniform with much surprise. We paraded by several times for
their benefit. The road once clear, we continued onward through
the gloomy gorge of the Romanche and out into a broad sunny
valley beyond.
The main valleys of the Dauphine have a climate much like
that of the Riviera, favorable for fruit and grain cultivation,
while every gap in the hills frames a soaring peak or a gleaming
snow field. On the other hand, many of the side valleys are so
narrow and deep that they are always in shadow, the boldness
of their precipices, the rushing waterfalls and absence of vege-
tation giving them an unsurpassed wildness of character.
Here every available bit of ground was under cultivation,
even steep slopes up beyond the smoke blackened villages on the
hillside. Our Scotch friend facetiously but aptly described it
as "farming of the highest type," and indeed we frequently saw
the peasants making use of the forces of gravity in bringing
their loads down the mountain side and in some cases even us-
ing a natural "take-off" from which to load their wagons.
As we passed along, peasant boys climbed on the machine
to sell lavender flowers and we bought huge fragrant bunches
for a few pennies. The soaring peak of the Meije came into
view, the tumbling ice falls from the great Dauphine glacier
of Mont de Lans apeared on the cliffs south of the road and in
a few minutes we rolled into the quaint old hillside town of La
Grave, which we had selected as our headquarters during the
next few days.
After lunch we strolled up the mountain path past the vil-
lage of Les Terasses with is twelfth century church and passed on
N. face of Meije and Breche de la Meije from village of Les Terosses.
Photo by Munroe Thorington.
rpper — Alpland on the Col du Loutant.
Center — Summit of the Tete de Toura Meige (left), Pic de la gave (right.)
Lower — Peaks of the Central Dauphine, looking south from the Col de la lange.
Photos by Munroe Thorington.
Dauphine Days 329
toward the Col d'Infernet road to the little chapel of Le Chazelet.
Across the valley rose the majestic peak of the Meije with its
rocky buttresses gleaming with new snow. Green valleys, dotted
with villages and checkered with yellow terraced fields con-
stantly came into view as our panorama broadened and the mea-
dows over which we walked were a white carpet of edelweiss.
We were happy and carefree and one quite understood how a
sober army man could lose his dignity enough to frisk over the
meadow in a vain attempt to capture a stray billygoat which
appeared much startled at the eccentricities of the genus homo
in uniform.
Continuing along the ridge, we reached the grassy summit
of the Signal de la Grave, commanding a magnificent view, in-
cluding the Grand Rousses and the Aiguille du Goleon toward
the north. Southward, we overlooked village-dotted valleys to
the majestic Monte des Agneaux at the sources of the Romanche,
while the Pelvoux, Grand Ruine, the black crags of the Ecrins
and the icy wall of the Meije and Rateau ending in the glacier
du Mont de Lans closed in our view. We stopped for nearly an
hour in this wonderful spot and walked down to the valley as the
sun was setting over the westward snow fields.
The next morning we were content to remain down in the
village, sprawled out on a grassy meadow with an unobstructed
view of the Meije and its hanging glaciers. We were anxious to
make at least one good ascent in the district and attempted to
find a guide, but all the first class men were away on army ser-
vice and we had to content ourselves with a porter (Emile Pic).
In the afternoon we set out for the Refuge Evariste Chance]
with the idea of reaching the Col de la Lauze (11,625 ft.) on
the next day. This pass, lying between the Pic de la Grave and
the eastern end of the Mont de Lans glacier, offers some inter-
esting snow work and is famous as one of the great view points
in the Dauphine. A beautiful walk through the woods on the
south side of the valley brought us to the little lake of Puy
Vachier, hidden away in a glacial cirque north of the Rateau,
the refuge perching high up on the rocks to one side. Another
half-hour found us at the cabin, looking down at the reflection
of the Meije in the blue water below.
Alpine club houses are seldom visited in war time and we
effected entrance by way of a rear window ; the doors were soon
open and shortly afterwards appetizing odors began to float
out from the direction of the kitchen. Outside, the sunset was
330 Dauphine Days
magnificent, the great peaks fiery red and taking on heliotrope
shades in the afterglow. We had our evening meal by the light
of a flickering candle, the villainous greasy face of our guide
and the lieutenant's sombrero giving the place an appearance
of the typical wild west den, seen only in the moving pictures.
After a comfortable night, it was no easy matter to make
an early start, but despite the difficulties we were well on our
way and making fast time over the hard snow slopes before
daybreak. The black rocks of the ranges in the east were
sharply outlined against a reddening sky, the slender Pic Cen-
tral of the Meije seemed turned to silver, while we, the only
human beings in this Alpine world, cast gigantic stalking sha-
dows out over the snow as the sunlight reached us. We roped
before climbing out onto the glacier, but there were very few
crevasses and these we crossed by firm snow bridges, travers-
ing the long slopes and cutting steps toward the glistening pass
which lay ahead. We were soon in the snow saddle and climbed
up to a resting place in the rocks to one side.
The panorama was marvellous. Northward, almost ninety
miles away, the stupendous southwestern face of the Mont Blanc
massif dominates the view and we could easily pick out the in-
dividual peaks lying between the Aiguille du Bionassy and the
needlelike spire of the Geant. Nearer are the ranges of the
Tarentaise and far below in the valley we could just make out
the houses of La Grave as dots in the patchwork of the terraced
mountain side. Eastward, we overlooked the valley of the
Romanche toward the Col du Lautaret and far beyond to the
peaks of Italy, then came the nearer summits of the Dauphine,
the jagged ranges in the south seen across the trench of the
valley des Etancons and silhouetted against a cloudless sky,
while to the westward, across the tremendous expanse of the
glacier du Mont de Lans, our view was of the plains of France
stretching away in the distance. We fancied we could make out
the misty ridges of the eastern Pyrenees. Below in the valley
of the Veneon it was possible to see the chalets of La Berarde and
across the ridges beyond we caught a glimpse of the Val
Gaudemar.
We spent several hours following chamois tracks across
the great snow fields of the glacier du Mont de Lans and climbed
the little rocky peaks of the Jandri and the Tete de Toura to
look over the precipices of La Berarde in the valley below. Then
back to our pass where the remains of our bread and cheese dis-
Dauphine Days 331
appeared as if by magic. Our guide smoked contentedly and
blew great rings which floated lazily away, while we lay in a
sunny corner of the rocks watching Mont Blanc disappear in
the blue glint of the noon haze. And less than three days before
we had been in the wards of a great hospital with its endless
rows of beds filled with brave men with maimed bodies ; it seem-
ed so very far away, absurd and impossible.
We were aroused by Emile, who had begun to yodel in an
ungodly fashion as a sign that his pipe was finished and that we
must be on our way. With rope in place and axe well in hand
we glissaded helter-skelter down below the Pic de la Grave and
out to the crevassed fields below. The slopes up which we had
laboriously cut steps in the early morning had softened and we
glissaded down through snow almost knee deep with little rain-
bows of glittering spray following us.
Our afternoon was spent in wandering lazily through the
woods ti La Grave wth no more exciting adventure than the
waylaying of an unwary cow ; be it known, however, that we dis-
covered a new use for a lieutenant's sombrero.
Next morning we walked nine kilometers to the Col de
Lautaret, which lies on the old Napoleonic road from Italy. To
the north is the Col de Galibier, the highest road pass in Europe,
while southward the road toward Briancon ends in the hazy
distance of the plains. The Lautaret is a bit of grassy alpland
with the old hospice in its midst. Goats graze contentedly by a
little sparkling stream and like a setting for a beautiful jewel,
this garden spot is hemmed in on all sides by gorgeous peaks
of bold and fantastic outline.
And here I would leave you, in the midst of beauty that
mortal pen will never perfectly describe. To know the charm
of these isolated valleys you must seek them out for yourself
with the love of the Old World out-of-doors in your soul. The
Dauphine is the land of heart's desire for the lover of contrast
and completeness of setting in Alpine scenery. Perchance one
day you too may walk this road to the Lautaret and beyond,
"And, pausing, look forth on the sundown world,
Scan the wide reaches of the wondrous plain,
The hamlet sites where settling smoke lay curled,
The poplar-bordered roads, and, far away,
Fair snow-peaks colored with the sun's last ray."
(Alan Seeger.)
Mountain Sickness
HARRY BEAL TORREY
One gathers a wealth of impressions in camp with the Ma-
zamas on Mt. Rainier; of the glories of massive mountains and
crevassed glaciers, of alpine lakes and hillside tapestries, of
rain and fog and crystal air and wonder-working clouds, of
summer sun brilliant on winter snows; of the rare Mazama fel-
lowship that throughout warmed our hearts; of vivid appeal to
sense and spirit in almost every moment of the outing. And
all of these dwell in one's memory, heightening the color of
everyday life.
Other impressions one gathers also on Mt. Rainier, that
belong to the athletic business of climbing. Of some of these I
have been asked to speak.
Let me first .of all give you a few figures.
To reach the summit from Camp Coursen on Mazama Ridge
one must ascend 8700 feet in a little over five miles. The ascent
falls conveniently into three parts: (1) from Camp Coursen to
Anvil Rock; (2) from Anvil Rock to Gibraltar; and (3) from
Gibraltar to the summit. In the first, one ascends 3900 feet in
a little less than three miles ; in the second, 3100 feet in one and
one-half miles ; in the third, 1700 feet in less than three-quarters
of a mile. The first was covered by our party in four and one-
half hours, at a rate of 866 feet vertically and 3400 feet horizon-
tally the hour. The second was covered in six and one-half
hours, at the much slower rate of 477 feet vertically and 1260
feet horizontally the hour. The third was covered in two hours,
at a more rapid rate than the second, though less than the first;
at the rate, namely, of 850 feet vertically and 1766 horizontally
the hour. From these figures it will be seen that the average
grade becomes progressively heavier from camp to summit;
but the going is the slowest between Anvil Rock and Gibraltar,
indicating that it is also the most difficult. Cowlitz Cleaver and
the Chute will be remembered in this connection, the latter offer-
ing the most arduous climb of the entire ascent. The Chute is,
indeed, a fitting introduction to the rest station on Gibraltar
aptly named Camp Misery. It is here that those who pass the
10,000 foot level usually drop out of line, if they drop out at all.
It is hereabout that mountain sickness claims its victims. But
Mountain Sickness 333
for those who escape the nausea of it, the last part of the ascent
is most surprisingly fatiguing. Here strong men may show
signs of profound exhaustion under relatively trifling exertion.
The symptoms are not uncommon. But why should they occur?
Mountain sickness may present itself under a variety of
forms. Nausea is one, perhaps the most constant. Extreme
weakness is another; and vertigo; and headache; and fever;
and delirium; and, in rare cases, unconsciousness that may end
in death. All of these symptoms may be encouraged by activity.
But they may appear under conditions of complete repose. In
the well known ascent of the balloon Zenith, April 15, 1875, the
three balloonists became so weak after passing 25,000 feet that
they could not adjust the bags of oxygen with which they were
provided. At 26,250 feet, one of them, Tissandier, became
speechless, sleepy, and soon after, unconscious. He alone sur-
vived to describe his sensations, among which, in this case, dis-
tress was entirely lacking.
Mountain sickness attacks different people at different al-
titudes. Below 10,000 feet cases are relatively rare. Above
10,000 feet they are more common, increasing in frequency with
the altitude. They are due primarily to a diminished supply of
oxygen, accompanying the rarification of the air. In the
neighborhood of 10,000 feet of elevation, the amount of atmos-
pheric oxygen becomes critically small for many people, who
may there develop distressing physical symptoms. But this state-
ment is not so simple as it may seem at first glance. If the story
is to be more than an unhappy ending, it will be necessary to
bring in a few more figures to develop the plot.
At sea level the weight of the atmosphere is just balanced
by a column of mercury 760 millimeters high. This measures
the barometric pressure. Approximately 21% of the atmos-
phere is oxygen, which thus accounts for 21% of the total baro-
metric pressure. At sea level this amounts to 159 millimeters.
At Camp Coursen (5700 feet), the barometric pressure is but
610 mm. The oxygen pressure is accordingly but 128 mm. At
Anvil Rock (9600 feet), the barometric and oxygen pressures
are respectively 520 mm. and 111 mm. At Gibraltar (12,700
feet) , they are respectively 471 mm. and 99 mm. At the sum-
mit (14,400 feet), they are respectively 442 mm. and 93 mm.
It thus appears that while the proportion of oxygen in the at-
mosphere is the same at all levels, its pressure, which represents
its availability for breathing purposes, sinks to 80% of its sea
334 Mountain Sickness
level value at Camp Coursen, to 70^ at Anvil Rock, to 62% at
Gibraltar, and to less than 59 % at the summit. This is only a
little more than one-half of the supply of oxygen to which Port-
land residents are accustomed.
But these figures alone do not adequately convey the real
significance of these reductions. To supplement them, it should
be stated that the percentage of oxygen in the lungs (so-called
alveolar oxygen) is about two-thirds that in the air inspired.
At sea level, then, the alveolar oxygen will have a pressure of
about 106 mm. of mercury; at Camp Coursen, 85 mm.; at
Anvil Rock, 74 mm.; at Gibraltar, 66 mm.; at the summit
62 mm.
Now, the pressure of oxygen in the alveoli of the lungs is
correlated significantly with the amount of oxygen in the blood.
At sea level, where the alveolar oxygen pressure is 106 mm., the
blood is almost saturated with oxygen. At Camp Coursen the oxy-
gen pressure has fallen to 85 mm., but the amount of oxygen in
the blood remains practically unchanged. At Anvil Rock the alveo-
lar oxygen pressure has fallen to 74 mm. — but the blood is still
94% saturated. At Gibraltar (alv. pr. 66 mm.) it is 92% satur-
ated. At the summit (alv. pr. 62 mm.) it is 90% saturated. All
of these figures refer to a person at rest. With moderate exer-
cise, the decline of blood oxygen is much more striking, reach-
ing 90%) at Camp Coursen, 82% at Gibraltar, and 80 at the
summit.
It thus appears that the amount of oxygen in the blood is
not seriously affected by the altitude below the 10,000 foot level.
Above the latter it begins to fall off more and more rapidly.
At Gibraltar, immediately after the very heavy grind up Cow-
litz and the Chute, it falls to a concentration that is distinctly
below normal and strikingly associated with the great fatigue
of the ascent.
This fatigue is less than it might be, however, were it not
for the fact that both heart and breathing mechanism respond
to the lack of oxygen by increasing their own efficiency. As
the atmospheric pressure lessens, the pulse quickens even in
persons at rest. Exercise greatly accelerates the heart beat.
This insures a more rapid transportation of oxygen to the tis-
sues. Respiratory movements become more frequent and pow-
erful, increasing the volume of air respired every minute and
the amount of oxygen exposed to the blood in the lungs.
Mountain Sickness 335
These movements of heart and respiratory muscles de-
pend upon an increased acidity of the blood. It is well known
that when carbon dioxide or lactic acid, both products of the de-
composition of the tissues, reach in increased quantities, through
the blood vessels, the nervous centers governing the activities
of the heart and the respiratory muscles, these activities are
accelerated.
So it happens that, though both of the acids are in a sense
waste products, they are at the same time very useful to the
body in adapting it to moderate changes in respiratory condi-
tions.
Besides affecting the cardiac and respiratory movements,
they control to some extent the carrying power of the blood for
oxygen. The major portion of the oxygen in the blood is carried
in loose chemical combination with the hemaglobin of the red
blood corpuscles. An increase in carbon dioxide or lactic acid
lessens the amount of oxygen that the blood can take up in the
lungs, but it also performs the very important function of facil-
itating the delivery of oxygen by the blood to the tissues. Now
if the reader will visualize a heart pumping faster than usual,
and the blood consequently passing through the fine capillary
network penetrating all parts of the body, at a greater speed
than usual, then it will be clear that the added amount of blood
coming every minute to any organ — the brain, for instance —
can have an added usefulness for that organ only if some means
is at hand for unloading with unusual rapidity the oxygen which
it carries. That means is provided by the increased acidity of
the blood.
On the other hand, diminished acidity makes it possible for
the blood to take up more oxygen in the lungs, but less easy for
it to part with that oxygen to the tissues. This latter fact has
been found especially important. So it may be said that when
the blood diminishes in acidity the tissues may obtain less oxy-
gen, even though the amount of oxygen in the air remains
constant.
The blood not only carries oxygen and carbon dioxide, and
lactic acid on occasion, but it also carries phosphates and car-
bonates of soda, and other substances that tend to neutralize
its acids and increase its alkalinity. They constitute the alkali
reserve. It is well known that as the amount of carbon dioxide
in the blood decreases, the alkali reserve normally decreases also.
Now it happens that at higher altitudes, the carbon dioxide does
336 Mountain Sickness
materially decrease. It follows that the alkali reserve should
decrease also. This is effected under normal conditions by the
elimination of the excess through the kidneys. If the elimina-
tion is prompt and adequate, the normal balance of acid and al-
kali in the blood will be maintained. If, for any reason, it is
delayed, the blood will become forthwith more alkaline. Since
alkalinity tends to hinder the escape of oxygen from the blood
to the tissues, the latter will suffer from lack of oxygen. Among
other organs, the brain will be so affected. A deficiency of oxygen
in the brain may lead to the nausea so characteristic of moun-
tain sickness; to vertigo, delirium, loss of consciousness, ac-
cording to circumstances.
Mountain sickness, then, appears to be sgnificantly associat-
ed with an oxygen deficiency. This deficiency is caused, first
of all, by a diminished supply of atmospheric oxygen. But the
fact that one person suffers at a given altitude as another does
not — although the pressure of atmospheric oxygen is the same
for both — means that in the former the elimination from the
blood of those substances which make it alkaline is delayed, so
that the tissues experience an added deficiency of oxygen for
which the reduced oxygen pressure in the atmosphere does not
account. In the case of the latter, not only do the kidneys func-
tion more satisfactorily in keeping the alkali reserve down to
normal proportions, but it is probable that the concentration of
acids in the blood is increased by delay in their elimination. It
has already been pointed out not only that carbonic acid height-
ens the efficiency of the heart and breathing mechanism, but
that it diminishes in concentration in the blood at higher alti-
tudes.
Anything that prevents the loss of acids from the blood
will tend to prevent the alkali reserve from increasing beyond
normal proportions. Under certain conditions, moderate exer-
cise helps in this direction; which means that moderate exer-
cise may aid to some extent in warding off mountain sickness.
On Pike's Peak (14,100 feet), for instance, it has been noticed
that those who ascend on foot at a moderate pace adapt them-
selves more readily to the change of altitude than those who
go by rail. And it has been shown further, that persons whose
blood tends to give up oxygen readily to the tissues — owing
perhaps to a retention and consequent augmentation of acid in
the blood — acclimatize more rapidly than those whose blood
gives up oxygen less easily.
Mountain Sickness 337
Acclimatization is usually achieved in time by all save the
most refractory cases. The human mechanism^ admirably
adapted to ordinary changes of oxygen pressure, finds itself
often overtaxed by the almost violent changes incident to the
ascent of such a mountain as Rainier. If one were to remain
on the summit (as can be done quite comfortably on Pike's
Peak) several days might elapse before the normal balance of
acids and alkalis in the blood would be restored and the heart
and kidneys and respiratory mechanism return to their normal
activities. This adaptability is a very remarkable attribute of
the living mechanism. But the adaptation takes time. In 1909
the Duke of the Abruzzi and several companions ascended, in the
Himalayas, to 24,600 feet, where the atmospheric pressure was
312 mm. mercury, without suffering serious inconvenience. But
this favorable result was doubtless due to the fact that the party
had resided for the two months previous at an altitude of 17,000
feet and had become acclimated to the elevation. It is possible
that Mt. Everest may be conquered in time, in spite of its 29,000
feet and a summit atmospheric pressure of less than 290 mm.
mercury.
Individuals differ. Some may eat heartily without disaster,
where others would speedily succumb; and drink freely and of-
ten where others cannot; just as they may climb at a pace which
would soon cause others to fall by the way in distress. Certain
facts, however, apply to all. One is that tea does not lessen fa-
tigue, its essential merit being that it makes hot water more
palatable. Another is that carbohydrate foods, among which
sugar is important, are especially valuable on the climb. They
burn completely in the blood to carbon dioxide and water, thus
providing two great desiderata, energy and acids. And the
energy and acids become rapidly available, within thirty or
forty minutes from the time the carbohydrate is taken. Auth-
orities have reccommended, accordingly, that such food be taken
in small but frequent amounts during an ascent.
Whether lemon juice is a real aid to the mountain climber
is a debatable question. It undoubtedly stimulates the flow of
saliva, which relieves parched mouths. Like sugar, it burns in
the body, liberating energy and weak acid. But it must be re-
membered that these effects are proportional to the amount
taken, which is usually small. Fruits that contain acid citrates
and the acid salts of other organic acids may be distinctly harm-
ful, since derivatives of these acid salts, in the form of carbon-
338 Mountain Sickness
ates, give an alkaline reaction. To use them for mountain sick-
ness, then, is to aggravate rather than allay the conditions that
favor the disorder.
To summarize : In the ascent of such a mountain as Mount
Rainier, one reaches a level — around 10,000 feet — where the
oxygen of the atmosphere has diminished to such an extent as
to initiate more or less serious disturbances of the acid-base
equilibrium of the blood, which increase with the altitude. When
the balance leans toward increased acidity, the effect is, within
certain limits, beneficial — depending upon the increased deliv-
ery of oxygen to the tissues. When it leans toward alkalinity,
the oxygen supply to the tissues diminishes to a point, it may
be, where they cannot normally function. But, whatever the
symptoms, lack of oxygen appears to be at the bottom of them
all.
THE MAZAMAS
Hitting the trail in the morning,
Sniffing the mountain breeze,
Up on a wide, white snowfield,
Or down with the big fir trees ;
We hike in our khaki and flannel,
And never a one but will say
The joy of the climb's in the climbing,
And the rest at the close of the day.
So here's to each perfect comrade
Who travels our upward trail,
With a voice to hearten the laggard
And a hand to him who would fail.
There's a peak to be won in the heat of the day,
A descent before the sun's decline ;
But never a selfish thought can live
Above the timber line. — Harold S. Babb.
Reminiscences of Mt. Baker
DR. W. CLAUDE ADAMS
While the war was being fought on the battlefields of Eu-
rope we were waging a war in the United States against Ger-
man propaganda. Sentiment was strong against the countless
methods employed by the enemy to foist on us and others their
nationalism. In the light of what we now know of their eager-
ness to excel and their arrogance in forcing themselves, their
opinions and their goods on other people, we see through many
things which happened years ago, the purpose and design of
which was not apparent at the time. Now we pick up a book,
for instance, "The Making of an American," by Jacob Riis,
published in 1901, or "Imperial Germany" by Whitman, pub-
lished as far back as 1897, and we read indictments against
Germany in her attitude to Denmark and other countries which
to us now only help to tell the tale of German kultur.
In looking over my Mazama records recently, I came across
a little incident of the Mt. Baker climb in 1909, which was very
interesting to me in regarding it from our wartime viewpoint.
Believing that it will interest those who have never heard of it,
and also refresh the minds of those who participated in the trip,
I am delving into the past and bringing forth the story, the sig-
nificance of which will not be lost, as the action of the offender
in the story smacks of the German idea of predominance, which
trait we have come so to despise.
The evening before the preliminary climb of Mt. Baker,
one of the visitors in our camp, Dr. Bernard Hahn df Seattle,
was seen surreptitiously gathering together material to make
a flag to plant on the summit when they reached it on the mor-
row. Much to our surprise it proved to be a German flag. In
spite of protestations, he brazenly took the flag up the mountain
with him and planted it on the top, boasting about it when their
party returned.
Resentment was rampant in camp and we vowed that we
would tear the German flag down and place the stars and stripes
on the top in its stead. Imagine our consternation to find that
there was not a United States flag to be found in camp. Steps
were taken at once to make one. Sadie Settlemeier, now Mrs.
Chas. Whittlesey, was our Betsy Ross, and the girls comman-
340 Reminiscences of Mt. Baker
deered all the red and blue bandana handkerchiefs and drew on
the dunnage bags for a supply of white material. Soon we had
manufactured a presentable flag, which was carried to the top
by the late Clifford Lee, and, amid the cheers of the company
who reached the summit, the German emblem was torn down
and the Star Spangled Banner was given its rightful place.
Later, at one of the bonfires, a kangaroo court was held
and was presided over by Judge Craven of Bellingham, and the
prosecuting attorney was Richard W. Montague of Portland.
One of the most notable cases tried was that of Dr. Hahn, who
was charged with high treason, in that he had floated a foreign
flag within the precincts of the camp.
The reason for the publication of the following notes on
Mt. Baker at this time is that the trip of 1909 never has been
written up for any number of "Mazama." For three or
four years, including 1909, the magazine was not published.
The club's treasury was depleted on account of having contrib-
uted money to help finance the Rusk expedition to Mt. McKinley,
the object of which was to prove or disprove the authenticity of
Dr. Frederick W. Cook's claim to have reached the summit.
On the preliminary climb, August 7, fourteen made the as-
cent, two of the party being women. And on August 11, the
entire number of thirty-eight, led by John Lee, made the diffi-
cult climb and reached the summit elevation, 10,728 feet, with-
out the use of a rope. The route followed by the Mazamas up
the middle fork of the Nooksack river was the same as the
famous Coleman party took in 1868 when it was led by Indian
guides.
Pioneers in the Pacific Northwest were scaling the snow-
capped peaks eight years before the first mountain-climbing
club in America was organized. The Appalachian Club of Bos-
ton was organized in 1876. In our Pacific Northwest we boast
of great snow-capped peaks ranging from 9000 to 16,000 feet
in altitude and one of the most conspicuous of the mountains
comprising this group is Kulshan, the Indian name for the moun-
tain now bearing the name of the Englishman, Captain Baker.
In 1868 Edward T. Coleman, an experienced alpine climber,
became the first white man, of whom there is record, to scale
the heights of Mt. Baker, which possesses so remarkably grand
and rugged an outline.
Mt. Baker is more nearly active than any of the volcanic
peaks in the northwest, as sulphurous fumes and steam are con-
Reminiscences of Mt. Baker 341
stantly rising out of the fumaroles and vents in the mountain.
The steam vents are very numerous, while the two most active
fumaroles are within the crater nearest the summit. Mr. Chas.
F. Easton and later, Mr. M. W. Gorman and myself, descended
into the crater, a black yawning chasm, and saw for ourselves
the two fumaroles, one constantly emitting fumes and steam and
the other intermittently. The sulphur fumes were very strong
at times and the snow in and around the crater was yellow with
sulphur crystals.
The moraine near the smaller of the two craters where we
ate lunch was about 30 feet wide and 100 feet long. When the
wind changed the fumes of sulphur came over so strong that
some of our party became ill.
Chas. F. Easton, a Mazama living in Bellingham, has stud-
ied Mt. Baker in all its phases, having climbed it many times
and from different sides. On one occasion he and three others
were compelled to spend two days and nights on the mountain
during a fierce blizzard and their lives were saved only by taking
shelter in a cave which they dug in the ice and snow.
Mr. Easton has also conducted scientific investigations of
great value to societies and clubs interested in the topography of
our mountains. He has found evidence that Mt. Baker has ma-
terially changed shape since Coleman described its contour in
1868; the secondary peak (Sherman) having sunk lower by 500
feet than it was at that time. On the day of the San Francisco
earthquake he was making a drawing of the summit of the
mountain with the aid of a telescope. The day after the earth-
quake he found the outline of the second peak had changed so
perceptibly that a new drawing had to be made, which proved
that the tremor had had its effect on the mountain. On his next
visit to the summit, he observed that the crater had been filled
with rock and lava which had tumbled down from Sherman
peak.
Coleman states in Harper's Monthly, Vol. 39, 1869, that the
two peaks were of the same height at the time of his visit, but
now there is a difference between them of more than 500 feet.
Baker at one time stood 1000 feet higher than at the present
time.
The pinnacle of loose lava and rocks which the Mazamas
found impossible to scale in 1906 has also crumbled away, so
that, were it not for the rolling rocks, the ascent might now be
made from that side.
342 Reminiscences of Mt. Baker
Mr. Easton and Mr. W. P. Hardesty set stakes and kept
data during our stay at Baker and estimated that at least two
of the glaciers were moving at the rate of more than 50 feet a
year, their rapid movement being due to the fact that the tem-
perature of the underlying rock formation is greater than that
of other mountains on the Pacific Coast.
One sight on the mountain I shall never forget and the im-
pression of it is still as vivid in my mind as on the day in which
I saw it. On the mountain one evening fell a sunset of surpass-
ing beauty, the like of which few of us had ever seen, so won-
derful and yet so weird. We were seated at our evening meal in
the woods of Camp Gorman when gradually we became con-
scious of a roseate glow all about us, enveloping and tinting the
landscape with an ineffable softness of light and color. Every-
one seemed mystified by the peculiar effect of the light and
spoke of it wonderingly.
About this time two of our party came down the mountain
and called us to come and see the wonderful coloring. Every-
one hastened up to the lookout point, and there we beheld a
sight of supernatural charm. The lofty summit was bathed in
a soft mellow glow and it was with a feeling of av/e that we
were silent in the presence of this phenomenon, not unlike the
Aurora Borealis.
Mr. Coleman, first white man known to have made the as-
cent of Mt. Baker, expressed his feelings when the mountain
crest was gained: "We felt at heaven's gate, in the immediate
presence of the Almighty. My companions, to whom, for the
first time, such wonderful scenery was unfolded, were deeply
impressed. The remembrance of the dangers they had escaped,
the spectacle of the overwhelming desolation around — these com-
bined evidences of the Creator's power filled their hearts with
extreme emotion. With one accord we sang the doxology. No
profane thought could be cherished, no idle jest uttered, on this,
one of the high altars of the earth."
1 — "Sun" Mountain, South Side.
2 — Showing character of rock climbing on "Sun" Mountain.
3 — Upper St. Mary's Lake, opposite "Sun" Mountain.
Mountain Climbing In Glacier Park
By FRANCIS BARBOUR WYNN
August, 1919
Fortunate for the traveler and nature lover is the fact that
America's national playgrounds present very striking differ-
ences. The Grand Canyon of the Colorado breathes the spirit
of awesomeness and weird color effects; Yosemite charms by
the unsurpassed beauty of its waterfalls, precipitate cliffs and
verdure ; at Sequoa are the giant trees, immortals of their race,
which have stood the ravages of time and forest fires but came
near yielding to the ruthless hand of commercialism; at Crater
Lake you look down upon a body of water filling the crater of
an enormous extinct volcano; in Rainier Park is seen the most
massive and majestic of our mountain peaks with its twenty
wonderful glaciers and bewildering wealth of flowers ; in Yellow-
stone the uncanny things hold attention — roaring and spurting
geysers, bubbling mudpots and wild animals grown tame; in
Colorado the matchless canyons and gushing mountain streams;
and Glacier Park is characterized by its Indians and Indiana
lore, superb mountan scenery — rugged peaks, wonderful lakes,
forests, glaciers and flowers, strikingly like the Tyrolese Alps.
To the nature-lover this park offers a variety of attraction
not presented in any of the other parks. Whilst train or auto-
mobile may bring one close to the main points of scenic interest,
the motor car can never desecrate the trails leading to the high
mountain passes, hdden lakes and floral rewards worth many
times the effort to reach them. It is par excellence the hiker's
paradise. The tenderfoot will do the trails by horse, but the
real lover of the outdoors will go afoot. The trails are now suf-
ficiently marked so that no one need lose his way in going from
camp to camp — the distance ranging from five to twenty miles.
But it is chiefly as a rendezvous for mountain climbers that
I wsh to consider Glacier Park. Many have followed its trails
and visited its innumerable and beautiful lakes, but the moun-
tains of the region are almost unexplored. Until this year not
a single record box had been placed upon any summit. The ig-
norance of the guides and those in the camps and hotels about
about the mountains is appalling. I was not able to find a single
344 Mountain Climbing in Glacier Park
person who had ever climbed any of the beautiful, rugged peaks.
Six years ago I made the ascent of Mount Jackson, and this year
I was resolved to climb Going to the Sun Mountain, or "Sun"
Mountain as it is commonly called. At the Chalets there was a
sort of tradition that the mountain had been clmbed twenty
years ago ; and five years previously ; but I could not even learn
the names nor the route taken in making the ascent. On two
previous visits to the region I had been upon the west, south
and east sides of the peak, and was convinced that these ap-
proaches were impossible. It was therefore decided by our
little party (Sidney F. Daily, Daniel Boone Clapp and Frank B.
Wynn) that we would make the attempt from the north side.
We estimated the total distance from "Sun" chalets and return
would be thirty mles. To conserve our strength for the climb
we took horses to the timberline on the north — nine miles. This
approach presented a cirque of many narrow ledges and sliding
shale. In the morning we had noted goat feedng high up on
these ledges. We made satisfactory progress until one o'clock,
when the lead brought us up against sheer walls. We made
several attempts up chimneys, each of which brought us to a
precipitate jump off of three thousand feet down upon Sexton
Glacier. This was our situation at three o'clock when it was
decided that we would have to abandon the climb for that day.
The other two gentlemen went on down leaving me to recon-
noiter for the subsequent attempt. I followed a narrow ledge
for a half-mile, around to where we had seen the goats in the
morning. Here another chimney was found which I believed
negotiable. The other two men were too far away to hail, and
the hour was too late to overtake them and bring them to this
point of attempt. So I determined, contrary to mountain rules,
to try it alone. The chimney was steep, and, at several points,
difficult to negotiate. Many times I wished for a rope and some-
body to give me a boost. Aside from a disfigured camera, and
some tremulousness incident to the physical strain, I reached
the summit without mishap. There was, of course, great joy
in the achievement but sadness over the fact that I had not my
colleagues with me.
The top of "Sun" mountain is a well weathered plateau, in
the center of which is a huge pile of disintegrating rocks quite
similar to the pinnacle found upon the summit of Shasta. This
little peak is plainly visible from Gunsight pass on the west, 12
Mountain Climbing in Glacier Park 345
miles away. There was no evidence anywhere of any former
climber. I built a cairn, placed the Mazama Record Box within
it and chained the box to a large upright stone. Then placing
my mountain stick by the cairn and my hat upon it, I took a
photograph as the only evidence in proof of the ascent. Besides
signing and dating the record, the book contained the following
original
MOUNTAIN-TOP PRAYER
Dear Lord, I thank Thee for this view
Of paradise.
The fearsome trail was hard to do,
But worth the price.
The arching canopy of art
In Heaven wrought,
Encompasses the very heart
Of beauteous thought.
In Nature's lap of forest green,
Rests tranquilly
The shimmering lake; the glinting stream
Leaps jously.
The serried ranks of snow-clad peaks
Attention stand,
Like faithful, white-robed sheiks
Await command.
Thy handiwork! How wondrous and
How beautiful!
My soul enraptured bids my hand
Be dutiful!
The trudging up yon toilsome trail
How well repaid!
Twill help me in Ife's sore travail,
Hath courage made!
For strength of limb and will to do
And try again,
I thank Thee, Lord, and pledge anew
My faith. Amen!
And now a most interesting postscript to this narrative of
the ascent of "Sun" mountain, which shows that the placing of
the Mazama Record Box upon the top of this superb peak has
already borne good fruit. After my return to Indiana I receiv-
346 Mountain Climbing in Glacier Park
ed authentic proofs of the climb in a letter from H. R. W. Horn,
of Defiance, Ohio. I quote in part from his letter as follows :
"It is with much pleasure and pride that I can inform you
that Dr. H. H. Goddard, Columbus ( Ohio
Howard S. Riddle, Columbus, Ohio
R. E. Wilson, Defiance, Ohio
and myself were successful in climbing Going-to-the-Sun moun-
tain on August 14, 1919. On the peak we found a cairn con-
taining a tin box with an Official Record Book of the Mazama
Mountain Club. I am enclosing several pictures taken on the
summit which will prove to you our successful climb of the
mountain. We saw your description of the route followed on
the Hotel Register at Sun Camp and our climb was made ac-
cording to your directions. I have become much enthused over
mountan climbing and can say most of my trips in the future
will be spent in this grand sport."
The wonder of an ancient awe
Takes hold upon him when he sees
In the cold autumn dusk arise
Orion and Pleiades;
Or when along the southern rim
Of the mysterious summer night
He marks, above the sleeping world,
Antares with his scarlet light.
— Bliss Carmean.
Larch Mountain Ascent
The following account of the Larch Mountain ascent on Sunday, October
12, 1919, was contributed by Muriel Kennedy, an eastern visitor enjoying her
first outing with the Mazamas. — Editor.
That glorious sun beamed and sent thrills and life into the
very soul of that little crowd who watched on the mountain the
birth of that new day, Sunday, October 12. A most gorgeous
rainbow guarded the shadow of Larch on the solid fog in the
West.
Another climb to the top of the lookout showed the scene
entirely changed by sunlight. Another snow-cap, Mt. Jefferson,
was added to the list, quite like a pyramid. The summit of St.
Helens resembled a saddle heaped with tons of snow. Adams
had been obscured by ungrateful clouds, but Rainier proudly
supported a black cloud like a hat. In the foreground miles and
miles of beautiful forests bordered acres and acres of devas-
tated land, which had been recently swept by fires.
They told me I should see the range by moonlight, that
it was very beautiful. The lookout was six flights almost ver-
tical, with about twenty steps to the flight. I took two steps up
and, shall I say cried? I wanted to scream. Mountain stiff-
ness is a feeling all its own. For a minute, the climb seemed
impossible, but later I proceeded stepping up first with the left
foot and dragging the other. Tears with many steps. Four
snow-capped mountains were very beautiful, namely, Hood, St.
Helens, Rainier and Adams. Hood, which was the nearest, be-
ing only twenty miles away, looked wonderful. Up until that
time, the mountains had never appeared so close to me like many
say, and none did then except Hood. I felt as though I could
almost touch it. At the farthest it seemed only two blocks away.
I shall never forget it. The other peaks were pretty also. To-
ward the Columbia and Portland a fleecy bank of clouds pre-
vailed. But Larch is not one of the highest; it is only 4,045
feet in height.
We rested again at the fire, then the crowd began to move
over to the cobble-pointed pinnacle which is the highest spot of
the mountain. This highest point is the sunrise observatory.
It is about a quarter of a mile from the grove or camping place.
When it was suggested that we go over there, I thought, "Sun-
rise be hanged. I can't." But on a trip I'm never a piker, so
348 Larch Mountain Ascent
we went, and I shall never regret it. The sunrise alone was
enough to pay one for the journey. The wall opposite the trail
was almost perpendicular for hundreds and hundreds of feet.
The whole sky was magnificent. Snowy-white dapples of clouds
hung low. The eastern horizon grew rose-colored. One black-
blue cloud in the North resembled a whale.
While watching, the eastern scene turned to blood-red,
bordered at the top by the blackest cloud I have ever seen. The
black slowly faded away and the deep red lifted upward. A
dark yellow streak appeared. Toward the left, Rainier, St.
Helens and Adams, snow-clad, blushed a soft crimson. Toward
the west, pale pink and blue, beautfully blended, adorned the
sky; and the once white dapples artistically turned to pink. A
few minutes later the red melted into a bank of gold, changing
the pink to amber. The range of mountains against the gold
showed black. As the mellow golden varied to a dazzling yel-
low, the crowd was speechless, for "Old Sol" was about to join
us. Between two peaks which seemed to be especially design-
ed for the occasion marked the spot of intense interest. Screams
and shouts and cheers and hat twirling hailed the bursting of
the first rays from the brilliant ball of fire that gently lifted
and floated upward from between the mountains.
The stars are forth, the moon above the tops
Of the snow-shining mountains. — Beautiful!
I linger yet with Nature, for the night
Hath been to me a more familiar face
Than that of man: and in her starry shade
Of dim and solitary loveliness,
I learned the language of another world.
— Byron.
What the Indians Tell
F. H. SAYLOR
The Birth of Gold, as Told by the Piutes, the Southern Ute&
and Columbia River Indians; The Creation, a Phaeton's
Fall, a Deluge and a Friendly Fish.
THE BIRTH OF GOLD, PIUTE INDIAN VERSION
Nearly everything in the terrestrial sphere knew a deifica-
tion by the Indians. While the sun and the moon generally take
the most prominent places in their myths, the planets, various
stars and the terrifying comets were not forgotten, but formed
a considerable portion of its composition. The two former have
many legends concerning them ; some where they are mentioned
direct, and again, spoken of under totemic designations. Of the
planets, Venus held first place, and the last is best remembered
in two ways : As a monster serpent coming to wreck and des-
troy, or as a woman, young, beautiful and arrayed most gor-
geously— one whose long flowing hair, let loose to kiss the breezes,
looked like threads of waving gold. The Piutes say that this
class of deity brought about the placement of the precious metals
and gems in the earth, such not having been stored therein at
the time of its creation. At this epoch the moon did not form a
part of the known luminaries of the heavens, but subsequently
came as a wanderer from space beyond the glitter of the stars,
which at this time seem to have been led by the planet Venus,
as the morning and evening star. The Piutes are not alone in
this belief, as the tribes about Lake Tahoe, the Southern Utes,
and a portion of the Columbia River families relate similar leg-
endary accounts. Such ideas are not altogether confined to these
localities, nor to this continent, as the myths of the Peruvians
parallel them, and in sections of the old world kindred legends
were told.
According to the story of the Piutes, the Sun-god was pos-
sessed of a magnificent robe, the glow and sparkle of which
caused the rays of sunshine. This he wore only during the time
he traveled through space in daytime, leaving it at night in the
custody of a brave whom he trusted. A siren, like a Queen of
Sheba, living in a far-off land, hearing of the dress of the ruler
Copyrighted by F. H. Saylor. 1919. All rights reserved.
350 What the Indians Tell
of the day, came to view, and in viewing not only coveted but
determined to secure it for herself. Unable to captivate the
Sun-god, she concluded to try her wiles upon the custodian of
the robe while its owner slept. This watcher, beguiled by her
winsome ways, allowed her to enwrap herself within the gar-
ment's folds, but, not content with self -admiration and unmindful
of the praise of the enamored brave, she resolved that those
who guard the blue while night shades the hours should be wit-
ness of her grandeur. Leaving the bewitched guard to bewail
her actions and mourn his rashness, she set forth to exhibit the
splendor of her raiment. As the folds of the glittering robe
trailed behind her like a billowed sea and her luxuriant hair
spread and rose and fell as a field of golden grain swayed by
zephyred force, onlooking stars in rapture stood in contempla-
tion of the beauteous scene. The commotion awakening the
Sun-god, he became enraged ; not so much for being disturbed in
his slumbers, but because of the happening which brought it
about. Rivalry up to that hour had been unknown to him and
its presence roused him to a state of fury. Especially was he
wrathy because the admiration another received was through
plumage stolen from himself. Avowing that presumption, as
well as unfaithfulness, should receive dire punishment, he called
for his "thurbesay," which was none other than the rainbow;
and, tipping an arrow, with lightning's flash he shot the destruc-
tive messenger athwart the adventurous maiden's path, pro-
ducing blindness.
Deprived of sight, she fell at last to reach the earth. To
regain her lost estate, she there wandered over rugged and
higher elevations in the hope of being able to grasp something
which would bring her back to the upper ether. As she climbed
from peak to peak, and from hill to hill, the gold, silver and
gems of many a sparking hue fell from tresses of hair, or were
torn from the resplendent robe by jagged rock and marked her
path as she moved from place to place.
Repentant tears came from sightless eyes to fall upon the
earth, and in their sinking below the surface, ornaments were
caught, and enfolded by them sank therewith. Tear-drops were
transformed into quartz, becoming the wrap of the brilliants
which brought the goddess low, sundering relations pleasant, and
changing happy hours to those of sorrow; thus, hidden in a
house of darkness only to be exposed again to light, centuries
following, as the root of evil to mankind.
What the Indians Tell 351
Each gleaming particle as it fell ;
So runs the legend old —
Sank deep into the mountain's breast
To deck, or vein its heart with gold.
Her piteous plight moved the stars to intercede for her
pardon, and, consenting to condone, the Sun-god permitted them
to lift her on high again, but conditioned as he did so that no
more should she wander save around the earth; that from her
face alone should brightness come thereafter, and that to be a
borrowed lustre. There, ever sighing for past radiance pictured
in her memory, she seeks to penetrate the veil of darkness ob-
scuring vision and locate the earth and scope thereon where the
gorgeous apparel once worn was lost. But unable to discern
correct direction, it is seldom that her face is presented to its
full. When full facing, one can see the stains thereon caused
by tear-wet hands not free from the cling of dross of earth, yet
none tell her of its condition, for all know that she could not
remove them if she would. Thus a presumptuous wandering
comet was a-rest in roaming and became what mankind now
calls the moon.
The disobedience of the unfaithful brave received a punish-
ment almost equal in severity, as he was confined upon a lonely
rock, there to remain forever. In the pole star he is seen by the
Indian, never moving; ever watching; regretting a trust be-
trayed from age to age. Always maintaining the position de-
creed as his fitting fate.
VERSION OF THE SOUTHERN UTE INDIANS
The Southern Utes say that before the tall pines had grown
to heights no higher than blades of grass, there lived a people
who though few in numbers were not without individuals among
them possessing the powers by which divinity moulds, and
makes and obliterates. The controlling spirit or chief among
them was Ku-ku-lu-yah, or "Bird that flies far." to him, Ah-le-
u-to, or "Daughter of the Clouds," was first in thought and
foremost in heart, she being his only child. Willingly she bowed
to paternal wishes in all ways save those of love, but in affairs
wherein the latter played a part she would not listen to dicta-
tion. She had given her heart into the keeping where a father
would not have it dwell. Next to the chief stood How-al-ak-wah,
352 What the Indians Tell
"The Winding Water," who was a man of magic, both feared
and revered because of his skill in mixing healing or destructive
potions, and exorcising the "Masachee Tomanowis" or "Spirit of
Evil," whether it lurked in fountain, in hill, in dale, or beset
mankind with its unwonted presence as a disease.
The arrow which pierced the bosom of a father's pride had
attached to its feathered end a garland thong, connecting it with
a mate sent flying from Cupid's bow to make captive the man of
medicine; two shots, as one, bringing the stronger to bend the
knee, while rosy blushes and drooping, love-lit eyes spoke the
secret of the other. Over the wooing of one the old chieftain
scowled, and was sore troubled that his daughter was anxious
that the lover whom he hated should win and become her husband.
How to prevent an obnoxious grafting upon his family tree of a
limb he would much prefer see cast aside long perplexed the old
chief, but at last he conjured up what he believed would be an
expedient whereby the charm might be brought about. He would
give a feast and thereat offer his daughter to the brave most
worthy, such to be the one who would perform certain exploits
which he would name. Well he knew that How-al-ak-wah, by
right of rank, would have precedence over any others who saw
fit to blindly dare conditions not to be defined until after ac-
ceptance of them had been made. And he was equally sure that
his contemplated victim would worship at uncertainty's shrine.
Runners soon gave notice to the people of the chief's intent, and
all hastened to attend the royal banquet. Eating, dancing and
smoking brought good cheer to the assembled guests, each of
the warriors present being ready to applaud the terms of trial
before their purport had been revealed. This was what the
crafty father had calculated upon, and he purposed using it to
the ending, as he believed, of the hated magician, as he reasoned
that the latter's show of bravery would give way to one of cow-
ardice when he learned what was required of him, thus remov-
ing him from the list of eligible candidates for the hand of his
daughter. New terms not so difficult could then be dictated,
and the warrior successful in their accomplishment would be-
come the husband of his daughter.
Taking Ah-le-u-to by the hand, the old chief stepped within
the circling fires, when silence prevailed. Calm and stately he
remained for a moment, and then began slowly but distinctly
to speak, saying : " The time comes when all must close their
eyes and go away to the spirit land, no more to be seen again.
What the Indians Tell 353
The moons which I have lived have whitened my hair like the
robe of snow on the summit of yonder peak, everlasting in its
changeless change. Many children came to my lodge as sun
succeeded sun, but all of them have gone the path of mystery
except this flower, Ah-le-u-to, to brighten and give happiness to
a father's heart. Through her must my successor come. Who
among you dares to war with fate and arise to command when
I lay it down? He who does, and knows not failure, the re-
mainder of you shall obey. Let him who would win a chief-
taincy when no more I rule, and wed a woman young and beau-
tiful, stand forth!"
A hundred fearless braves arose to spring across the fires,
but quicker still than they was How-al-ak-wah, who was before
them. Welling up and resounding far and wide then rose a
mighty cheering of the champion. As it floated away upon the
winds to give place to quiet, those standing round the circle re-
moved their adorning necklaces made from the claws of jungle
beasts, grewsome symbols of ambition well accomplished, and
laid them at the feet of the man of magic who had dared the
worst. Not unmindful of the homage shown him, still giving it
no recognition, like a rock untouched by a blast of raging storm
the magician stood with folded arms before the exultant chief-
tain, ready to attempt any difficulties he might propose, and as
he presumed it would be, so it was.
Thus the hating father spoke to him as each one listened
with bated breath: "Mark this test, How-al-ak-wah, of thy
magic, and if thou wouldst win Ah-le-u-to for thy bride, and
with her the right to rule when a father's hand no longer grasps
the tomahawk of command, perform it! Thou shalt brew a po-
tion which shall be as bright as the wigwam of the Sun-god ; one
which shall be a blessing, or bring a curse upon all mankind;
worthless, yet more powerful than anything now known;
stranger than the strangest substance that the oldest brave re-
members. Brew this before the dawn shall come again and all
you wish for shall be granted; chieftaincy shall be yours, and
my daughter shall go with you and bless futurity upon the earth.
Fail, and from the tribe you shall be banished to go your way
alone until time with you shall be no more. I have spoken."
While this harangue was being delivered the magician
maintained perfect composure and bearing bold; when finished,
his eyes sought those of the almost fainting maiden ; then, with
a smile, as if to encourage, he dropped his arms and slowly,
354 What the Indians Tell
though proudly, went forth from the glare-lit encampment.
Those left behind watched his retiring figure with awe-stricken
faces as it disappeared in the gloom cloaking the mountain up
whose sides he took his way, and when no longer within their
view, endeavored to picture for him success in the fitful glowing
of the dying embers of the fires about them. Soon the light of
kindled flame was seen upon the crest of higher bluffs above,
showing that the magician had begun his task, he appearing to
be stirring with a spear a something within a cauldron. Again
the flames sank to nothingness, when the mournful chant of a
death song was heard coming from its vicinity. So absorbed
were the watchers that they did not notice the stealing away of
one of their number into the shrouding darkness. From lowlier
pitch the chanting began to assume a louder tone, and one indi-
cative of victory. As it rang out loud and clear the fire's expir-
ing rays renewed their brightness and intensity of burning un-
til the face of fair Luna looked like a painted one when compared
with the natural bloom of youth and loveliness, as its light ex-
posed to view and betrayed the fact that Ah-le-u-to had stolen
away to the magician's side.
While the man of medicine stirred the contents of the caul-
dron his loved one commingled her voice with his in song. Slow
and solemn was the measure, then with resonance round and
full with happier strain, again in wailing cry of farewell to
hope, then in glee it caught up the breezes. All at once a burst
of thunder seemed to shake the earth's foundations and from
the cauldron a moulten mass was lifted skyward, glittering with
more brightness than thrice ten thousand times the glow of the
many stars that twinkle in the blue above. As a pillar of fire
it gleamed, transforming the azure robe of night into noon-
time's sightf ul hour ; then, sundering its bonds, it fell as lightning
flashes from the clouds to seek and strike a lower level, and in
its fall scattering far and wide. An explosion had overturned
the kettle in which the magician was brewing the potion asked
for, when its contents arose and fell like a golden river plung-
ing down the slopes, racing past boulders, hiding among the
crevices of the rocks and sinking into the softer ground, pro-
ducing a strange, hitherto unknown thrilling within the hearts
of the watching ones at the mountain's foot. The peace their
bosoms knew before gave place to greed and malice ; lips yet to
utter other than pleasant words parted to give vent to sounds
of rage and howls more blood-curdling than those of maddened
What the Indians Tell 355
beasts. Brother fought against brother, frenzied fathers smote
their children, heedless of all save How-al-ak-wah's magic po-
tion, each endeavoring to secure as much of it as possible.
Darkness suddenly fell upon the scene when the few remain-
ing survivors in this, the world's first mad scramble for wealth,
were caught within the wrap of a roaring, raging stormcloud
arising, and carried to a location far away. Once its inky folds
became awry, disclosing a gorgeous view in the westward hor-
izon; one showing the gathering together of the stars to greet
a bride and groom, then closing as if the portals of the happy
hunting grounds had been passed by master magician and lovely
maid. When morning came a little old man appeared among
the transported people and to them said: "For unnumbered
snows shall the contents of How-al-ak-wah's wondrous mixture
be hidden from your eyes. Seek to find it, and a paler face than
yours shall step between, and in its coming a punishment you
shall know for your endeavor, for it shall strike you to the earth
as you brought low your brothers. When it finds, you may ac-
cept of and use, as it will give you. Beware !" Since then the
red race disturbs not the earth in search of gold, and it would
prevent if possible the paleface miner's doing so, for it is be-
lieved that in its uncovering harm in some manner will afflict
them.
VERSION OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER INDIANS
The perpetual snow mantling, beauty of outline and the gla-
ciers, together with the incomparable scenic combination of lake,
river, wooded hills and expanse of verdure skirting its base, has
endeared Mt. Hood to all those residing in sight of its high up-
lifted head, as well as winning the lasting admiration of travel-
ers who occasionally behold it. Like all of the sentinels of the
Cascades, it has been the basis of numerous traditions current
among the aboriginal inhabitants whose hunting grounds were
adjacent to the Columbia river, possibly having more legends
connected therewith than any one other mountain of the range.
It also stands unique not only among its fellows, but among the
mountains of the world, from the fact that at times it casts a
double shadow. To the white man this freak of nature presents
a beautiful picture only, being to him but an added charm thrown
around the grand old eminence to lend increasing pleasure while
in contemplation of its grandeur. To the superstitious mind
356 What the Indians Tell
of the Indian, however, the phenomenon displays a reflex of
an incident which they believed happened when mankind was in
its years of youth and from it he reads the future of his race.
To him it has a meaning, and hopefully he awaits the coming of
the hour when promises spoken in the long dead past shall be
fulfilled.
The Indian narrator of the legend will assert that the in-
cident connected with the first appearance of this double shadow
brought about a remarkable change in the stature of his fore-
fathers, telling one that antedating such occurrence the people
then living grew to heights as tall as the noble firs which kiss
the clouds with their higher reaching boughs. The tyee, or chief
among them, was of more gigantic build than his subject people,
his head towering above them so much that his warriors could
walk under his outstretched arm without disturbing his eagle's
plumes with which they adorned their hair. He was not only
majestic in appearance but most pure of soul. He was a kind
and impartial judge and always solicitous for the welfare of
those over whom he ruled.
Passing days brought a son and heir to his wigwam, and
as this boy's life increased he became more like the source from
whence he sprung. He was of commanding presence, his brav-
ery unquestioned and his character without stain. A young
man well and rightly equipped to grasp the tomahawk of auth-
ority and rule a people. Already had he grown nearly to the
prime of manhood without caring to select from the many hand-
some maidens among the people one he would make his bride.
Yet that period of his existence was destined to come, for few
there be who escape from the impulse for companionship with
one of the opposite sex, which when grown to fulness marks the
measure of their joy or brings acutest pain. To this rule the
son was no exception, for one day there came from the eastern
sky the vision of a lovely maid who seemed to step from splen-
dor's seat out of the low-hung morning star. It was a comet
goddess, and one so blessed with brilliancy that the sunlight
paled before the radiance of her smile. Seeing her, the young
warrior stood transfixed, his heart aflame with thrills. Attract-
ed, she halted. Then from his lips fell fervent plea that no more,
unloved, should she roam alone in space, but dwell henceforth
upon the earth as his royal mate and queen. Wounded by Cupid's
dart herself, it took but little urging of a suit so strange and
born in haste to win a heart already won. With mutual consent
What the Indians Tell 357
came outstretched arms to clasp heart to heart, when lo! be-
tween them rose a shape of aspect dread, veiling the ardent
swain from a would-be bride. 'Twas the daughter of the Thun-
derer, Ma-sah-chee Tamanowis, goddess of jealousy, who, in rage
and hate, had interfered with love's young dream.
Not content with obscuring sight that glow the eye and
heart, the rancorous spite of the intruder must be further vent-
ed. Seizing the golden tresses of the comet maid, she struck
them from her head. As the angered fiend threw them here and
there, or stamped upon them, they were ground into the rocks,
or carried away by the winds into open crevices, there to lie,
not forever, but until the miner of a race to come should find, ex-
tract and make or mar the happiness of a people. While gold
may be the means of bringing pleasure to its possessor, it still
contains the contaminating touch of her who murdered joy and
love, and through this, those who covet it for selfish motives
are afflicted with a band of misery around the heart that darkens
and blanks it from the happier glow.
Awe-stricken the youthful chieftain stood, then burst his
heart with flood of grief. The father, bewailing his untimely
end, wove a mantle pure and white about his form, renewing
the robe each passing year as a symbol of his grief. Thus Mt.
Hood was formed, and a grander tomb before or since no soul
has ever known. Thus was brought about the birth of gold
found scattered far and wide away from lover's last resting
place.
"And ever as the summer comes the mystic queen,
Forbidden ever to return as comet to the sky,
Steals silently from out the east, at rising of the sun,
To look upon her lover's mantled form
And meditate, alone, that sweet, sad morn
When first they met; and still the hag, hell born,
Pursues and draws obscuring veil o'er each; to realms un-
known
They thus return. The tale is true, for every mortal eye,
When blessed with sight, may yet behold that very scene."
Following the entombment of the departed brave, the Ma-
sah-chee Tamanowis, her jealousy still unappeased, gathered
great stones and hurled them toward the place of sepulchre to
break its covering and expose to view the form of him lost to
358 What the Indians Tell
earth. In their fall these missiles struck, thus killing some and
dwarfing those that remained to their present size. Before
further damage could be done by her the Sun-god stopped her
devilish work, but too late to undo what she had already done.
The stricken people were told not to grieve, for in the future
the dead would break away from bondage and live again, and
all would resume their pristine forms.
As Mt. Hood seems to rumble, or emit a cloud of smoke,
the Indian thinks he hears the quickening of a soul whose re-
habiliment will be to them a renewal of departed excellence;
their entering under the leadership of a reanimated warrior,
who claims a bride in spite of jealousy, into everlasting happy
hunting grounds. Disappointed often, yet they stoically wait
and hope.
To prove the story handed down for unnumbered years,
they point to the double shadow cast by Mt. Hood at times,
claiming that the brighter one is the lovely comet maid in spirit
form coming to greet her lord and lover when he again awakens,
and that the darker one is Ma-sah-chee Tamanowis, the fiend,
ever present, if possible, to intrude upon and blast the bloom
and blossom of a happy hour.
THE CREATION, A PHAETON'S FALL, A DELUGE AND A
FRIENDLY FISH
In order that the reader may better appreciate this legend,
it might be well to state the conditions under which it came to
the writer ; and it might be also said that it was the first inter-
view he ever had with an Indian regarding his legendary past.
The date was in the sixties; location, a country village in
the Willamette Valley, Oregon. The story-teller was Us-tow,
chief of the Wah-pa-to Indians, who was not only chief of his
tribe but its last survivor. He was called "Dave" by the whites.
When the cup which inebriates was denied him he was always
law-abiding — otherwise, not. He was trusted by his race when
sober, nearly always being called upon to represent them when
matters concerning them were brought to the attention and ad-
judication of the Indian Agent at the Grand Ronde Agency. The
writer became well acquainted with him through a donation of
apples and other edibles and the barter of some old clothes in
exchange for bows, arrows and moccasins.
In that epoch of the writer's life about all he became con-
What the Indians Tell 359
versant with concerning an outside world of an ancient age
was learned at his mother's knee while she read "Peter Parley"
or told Bible stories, and it was no more than natural that he
should feel his importance upon finding that Dave was ignorant
along such lines. In the exchange of confidences, the writer,
among other stories, related the biblical account of creation and
that of the deluge. During their recital Dave sat like the pro-
verbial boulder, unable to move or give forth sound. Tales,
however, being ended, the dumb found his voice, and gave the
version of time remote, coming down to him from an age when
his fathers were "little children," a relation that not only aston-
ished a listener, but caused him to gravely question Dave's
veracity.
According to his story there existed in the beginning an
era of great darkness, all that there was during such period
being the Sahale Tyee, or Great Spirit above, and below, a vast
breadth of waters, calm and lone in their boundaries. As ages
multiplied, the Sahale Tyee grew tired of immobility, silence and
black night, when he descended from his place above to the
face of the tide beneath. Striking it with his bow, it began to
swirl and toss, when the earth pushed up and out from its tur-
moil and formed an island of great proportions. Unable to see
these sudden and strange changes without a light, an eye Divine
looked about for something which could be made subservient to
his purposes. Finding some seaweed, he waved it back and
forth until it became dry, and then rolled it into a couple of ball-
shaped masses which were ignited by their being blown upon.
These luminaries created, they were hung in the heavens, where
they are now seen as the sun and moon. Having a sufficiency of
light, the earth was supplied with vegetation and peopled with
fish, creeping things and fowls; and last of all was created a
race generally termed by the Indians as an animal people, a race
possessing the qualities of demi-gods with human instincts and
intellects, yet known by animal names, and in many instances
accredited as animals reasoning and acting like human beings,
their characteristics being similar to the gods of ancient Egypt
and Greece.
That the sun and moon should have such a warder, a couple
of effigies were made out of clay, the first being formed while
the aura of day shed its light upon the earth, and in drying par-
took of its nature, fiery at times, yet could be the most beneficent.
The latter, left to dry and vivify under the glow of the pale
360 What the Indians Tell
moon, was featured much lighter; her children, which each
dwelt in a star, inheriting her disposition rather than that of
the sun's warder, their father. At one time one of these came
to the earth and sought to play with the children of the animal
people. This youth was known by the name of Sea Otter. At
first there was no objection to his becoming a party in the games
played, but finding that he was more expert than the animal
children and took all the honors, a jealousy arose among the lat-
ter, when the victor was taunted with an uncertainty as to his
parentage. Aggrieved at his treatment, Sea Otter returned
to the sky and went to the lodge of his father. While his parent
was asleep during the pass of the night, the son amused himself
by handling the sun as he would a ball, finally taking it into his
head that he could carry it through the heavens as well as his
father. The idea once conceived, he could not rest until consent
was given for him to do so. The trail was by a spider's-web
bridge; an arch like the bend of a bow when strung was not
very wide. Before starting, Sea Otter was cautioned as to what
he should do and not do while on the trip. He must ascend
slowly, lest he tire and be unable to securely hold his charge;
careful when highest lest a false step bring disaster ; hasten not
thereafter, for the course was steep and the sure foot loses cer-
tainty of safety in speed.
Sea Otter got very tired ere noonday arrived, and by the
time he reached the place where he must begin a descent kept
changing his load from one shoulder to the other to relieve his
weary arms. The glare of the sun, in shifting it before his eyes,
brought about an uncertainty of sight, thereby preventing his
clearly viewing the finely woven path, when he missed his foot-
ing and lost his hold upon the burden carried. As the fiery ball
struck the earth it burst into innumerable fragments and start-
ed an earth-wide conflagration. Sea Otter also fell from the
bridge and in his fall was the first to die. As in the fate of
Phaeton,
"The strong winds bearing him beyond the breast of earth,
Where, plunging headlong, with robe aflame,
Like the shooting star, which marks the heavens
With its brightness as it falls, his career
Found ending in an awaiting, engulfing sea."
What the Indians Tell 361
The Sahale Tyee, noting the conflagration, sent a mighty
wave to extinguish it. Those surviving the first of the destruc-
tive elements, endeavored to seek safety from the latter, among
them being a woman, she being aided by a monster fish. It ob-
served her plight, and remembering her former kindness to it
by frequently providing it with food, swam to her rescue, tell-
ing her to get upon its back and it would save her. This she did,
the succoring fish all the while keeping its back high above the
crest of the deluge until the overwhelming tide had served its
purpose and was again cradled in ocean's deep. Danger past,
the fish swam to the shore of a large river, which it entered,
when the woman, the sole survivor of the catastrophe, stepped
again upon a drowned earth to begin thereon a dispensation new.
This part of the legend reminds one of the parting of Orion
and the Dolphin :
"Farewell, thou faithful, friendly fish! Would that I
could reward thee; but thou canst not wend with me,
nor I with thee. Companionship we may not have.
May Galatea, queen of the deep, accord thee her favor,
and thou, proud of the burden, draw her chariot over
the smooth mirror of the sea."
Again it recalls the legend of the Hindoo king, Satravrata,
who, with a few others, took refuge from a deluge covering the
earth in an ark, the god Vishnu, in the form of a fish, taking
care that the ark sailed in safer waters by conducting it around
by a cable tied to its horn.
At the time the legend was told by Dave, the small boy lis-
tening was of that age when he thinks that his little brother
or sister, following him upon the stage of life, is a present from
the doctor. The boy could not understand how such a present,
especially a double one, could arrive, when the man of medicine
had met death in the flood. Upon telling his mother that he
thought Dave had "storied" to him, she reminded him of the
story of Jonah and the whale, and explained that possibly an-
other great fish might have swallowed the doctor, keeping him
safe for a time and then spewing him again out upon dry land.
Associated Mountaineering Clubs of North America
The membership in the Bureau has shown steady increase
and now numbers 31 clubs and societies with over 60,000 indi-
vidual members, as follows :
American Alpine Club, Philadelphia and New York.
American Forestry Association, Washington.
American Game Protective Association, New York.
American Museum of Natural History, New York.
Adirondack Camp & Trail Club, Lake Placid Club, N. Y.
Appalachian Mountain Club, Boston and New York.
Bopne and Crockett Club, New York.
British Columbia Mountaineering Club, Vancouver.
Colorado Mountain Club, Denver.
Dominion Parks Branch, Dept. of the Interior, Ottawa.
Field and Forest Club, Boston.
Forest Service, U. S. Dept, of Agriculture, Washington.
Fresh Air Club, New York.
Geographic Society of Chicago.
Geographical Society of Philadelphia.
Green Mountain Club, Rutland, Vermont.
Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club, Honolulu.
Klahhane Club, Port Angeles, Wash.
Mazamas, Portland, Oregon.
Mountaineers, Seattle and Tacoma.
National Association of Audubon Societies, New York.
National Parks Association, Washington.
Nat'l Park Service, U. S. Dept. of the Interior, Washington.
New York Zoological Society, New York.
Prairie Club, Chicago.
Rocky Mountain Climbers Club, Boulder, Colorado.
Sagebrush and Pine Club, Yakima, Wash.
Sierra Club, San Francisco and Los Angeles.
Tramp and Trail Club, New York.
Wild Flower Preservation Society of America, New York.
The common bond uniting all is the desire for the preser-
vation of our finest scenery from commercial ruination. We
are working in co-operation with the National Park Service for
the creation, development and protection of our National Parks
and Monuments. In our annual Bulletin attention is called to
what various departments of the Government are doing for the
mountaineer and traveler, and mention is made of the claims
of scenic regions to become national parks or monuments. When
these projects are considered by the Government, we present
Report of Local Walks Committee 363
the views of our members, and give publicity to the plans of the
Government.
We have encouraged and assisted our clubs in forming and
increasing reference and circulating collections of books for
the use of their members. We are calling public attention to
many important but little known scenic regions by illustrated
magazine articles, and by illustrated lectures before leading
clubs and societies.
LEROY JEFFERS, Secretary
Librarian American Alpine Club,
476 Fifth Ave., New York.
Report of Local Walks Committee
The Local Walks Committee for the Mazama year 1918-
1919 has nothing very special to report. In the performance
of its functions the committee has been content to follow pretty
closely the lines of policy inaugurated by its predecessors.
The chairman introduced one innovation in appointing a
vice-chairman to assist him. This innovation, we think, might
well become an established practice, as the duties of the chair-
man are time-consuming and exacting. W. P. Hardesty, who
for so many years and so ably had officiated as chairman of the
committee, very kindly consented to act in the capacity of vice-
chairman and did so act until his private business called him
away from the city in April. For the remainder of the year
Eugene H. Bowling was the vice-chairman. The chairman ap-
preciates much the valuable assistance rendered by both of these
gentlemen, and likewise that furnished by the other members
of the committee.
The July trip to Mt. Hood, which was put on by the commit-
tee this year as usual, was in every way a success. There were
climbing parties from both the north and south sides, and 120
people attained the summit. Special interest attached to this
trip this year as it was held on the twenty-fifth anniversary of
the organization of the club. Four of the 198 immortals who
stood on the summit of Mt. Hood on July 19, 1894, and there
364
Report of Local Walks Committee
formally organized the Mazamas, were with us again this year.
These sturdy veterans were C. H. Sholes, Rev. Earl M. Wilbur,
Charles M. Meredith and Willis W. Ross. Mr. Sholes had been
the chairman of the executive committee in the preliminary
organization of the club and later served as its president for
five terms. Mr. Wilbur had presided at the meeting on the
summit when the club was formally organized. All four of these
gentlemen made interesting reminiscent talks.
The following is a complete list of local walks taken during
the year:
Date
Time
1918
Oct.
13
X
day
20
1
day
27
1
day
Nov.
3
y*
day
10
i
day
17
X
day
24
*
day
Dec.
1
%
day
8
y>
day
14-15
2
days
22
i
day
29
#
day
1919
Jan.
5
X
day
12
X
day
19
X
day
26
y*
day
Feb.
2
y*
day
9
i
day
13
K
day
16
i
day
23
X
day
Mar.
2
i
day
9
y*
day
13
X
day
15-16
2
days
23
1
day
30
1
day
April
6
£
day
13
1
day
16
H
day
20
27
May 4
10-11
14
18
25
30-31-
June 1
1
8
14-15
22
29
day
day
day
days
day
day
day
3 days
% day
1 day
2 days
day
day
Place Visited Leader Attend-
ance
Fulton-Oswego Jacques Letz 40
Vancouver-Hidden Station (Mrs. Ira Harper)
(Augustus High ) 38
Bull Run-Walker's Prairie... W. P. Hardesty 20
Mt. Scott-Clackamas Eugene Dowling 35
Gresham-Troutdale Crissie Young 23
East St. Johns J. I. Teesdale 43
Palatine Hill — Taylor's Perry
Road Harold Babb 49
Oswego Lake Minna Backus 58
Milwaukee-Oak Grove Rhoda Ross 29
'Bull Run-Aschoff Hotel Evelyn Hardinghaus. . . 53
Dundee-Mistletoe Trip Crissie Young 68
Mt. Tabor- Woodstock Elma L. Fish 44
Beaverton-Sylvan Pasho Ivaneff 50
Council Crest-Riverview J. Homer Clark 31
Tualatin-Fulton Colista M. Dowling ... 47
Oswego-Oregon City Jean Richardson 42
Castle-Eagle Point A. B. Williams 68
Clackamas-Sycamore Marion Schneider 29
Moonlight Walk Fred Johnson 10
Willamette-Pete's Mountain.. Harold S. Babb 15
Skyline Ridge-King's Heights Ralph Tucker 28
Skyline Blvd L. Adele Bornt and C.
M, Pendleton 19
Mt. Sylvania-Oswego Lake... James Ormandy 76
Moonlight Walk Anne C. Grassl 46
Larch Mountain (R. W. Ayer )
(L. E. Anderson) 120
Cooper Mountain John A. Lee 61
Troutdale-Gresham (H. L. Plumb)
(Ed Berglund) 39
Columbia Blvd.-Rocky Butte. Lola Creighton 43
Cottrell-Sandy River P. G. Payton 37
Moonlight Walk-Terwilliger
Blvd Colista M. Dowling . . 12
Linnton Road-Willamette
Heights Cinita Nunan 28
Bethany-Holcomb Lake J. I. Teesdale 52
Vancouver-Livingston Hill . . Eric Bjorklund 29
Bull Run-Badger Creefc-
Aschoff's Mary Gene Smith 82
Moonlight Walk James Ormandy 12
Canemah-Linn's Mill Jacques Letz 51
Hillsboro-North Plains-Logic
Trail George Meredith 46
Upper Clackamas River John A. Lee 24
Willamette Hprts.-St. Johns.. Cecil Pendleton 1
Rooster Rock-Bull Run W. W. Ross 63
Greeleaf Peak (Agnes Lawson )
.(Crissie C. Young) 50
Chehalem Mountain L. W. Waldorf 44
Burlington Skyline Blvd A. S. Peterson 65
Report oy Local Walks Committee 365
July 4-5-6 3 days Whatum Lake-Chinidere and
Indian Mountains Harold S. Babb 36
4-5-6 3 days Bowling Farm Eugene H. Bowling ... 30
19 y2 day Moonlight Walk-Blasted Butte A. Boyd Williams.. 60
12-13 iy2 days Larch Mt.-Wahkeena Falls. ..(R. W. Ayer )
(E. F. Peterson) 112
19-20 2 days Mt. Hood — South Side Committee . 98
18-19-20 2*/2 days Mt. Hood— North Side Committee . . 29
26-27 2 days Estacada-Clear Creek Chas. E. Warner 17
Aug. 3 1 day Oswego Lake-Oregon City J. Homer Clark 19
10 1 day Gresham Butte Dr Wm. Amos 17
17 ll/2 days Blue Lake-Columbia River. . . E. ' H. Bowling 15
24 1 day Sauvie's Island J I. Teesdale 5
31 1 day Mountain View-Cedar Mills . . Eugene Bowling 23
Sept. 6-7-8 3 days Neakahnie-Mt. Short Sand
Beach Committee 75
14 1 day Gladstone-Clackamas River-
Barton Harold S. Babb 21
21 1 day Latourelle Falls-Pepper Mt... Chas. E. Warner 46
28 1 day Forest Grove-Bavid's Hill... Mary Knapp Lee 22
Oct. 4-5 2 days Table Mountain Edw. C. Sammons 28
Local Walks Committee Financial Report
October 13, 1918, to October 5, 1919, inclusive.
RECEIPTS
Amount collected on local walks $151.70
Profit from Mt. Hood trip 157.47
Total $309.17
EXPENDITURES
Printing and mailing schedules $115.30
Commissary and other supplies 53.90
Total 169.20
Credit Balance $139.07
JOHN A. LEE, Chairman.
Report of Certified Public Accountant Who Examined the
Financial Affairs of the Mazamas
INCOME AND PROFIT & LOSS ACCOUNT
For the Period From October 7, 1918, to October 6, 1919.
INCOME:
Members' Dues $1,245.00
Life Membership 50.00
$1,295.00
Miscellaneous :
Interest on Liberty Bonds 20.00
Key Sales 9.25
Picture Sales 13.00
42.25
NET INCOME FROM COMMITTEE TRANSACTIONS:
Income :
Annual Outing, Mt. Rainier $2,680.28
Mt. Hood Outing 157.47
Local Walks .. 98.90
2,936.65
Less —
Loss on Magazine Publication 289.58
2,647.07
Gross Income $3,984.32
EXPENSES :
Club Room Rent $ 445.00
Telephone Rent and Tolls 75.15
Printing and Stationery — General 241.65
Entertainment 20.85
Lecture Expense 34.88
Associated Club Dues 15.00
Insurance 7.38
Floral Contributions — Deceased Members 18.00
Furniture Repairing and Renovating 67.15
Sundries 50.54
975.60
Net Income $3,008.72
Balance Sheet
As at October 6, 1919.
ASSETS
Cash at Bank — General Fund $4,000.98
United States Liberty Bonds 600.00
Club Room Furniture and Camp Equipment .. 900.00
$5,500.98
LIABILITIES
Surplus ...$5,500.98
$5,500.98
Portland, Oregon, October 29, 1919.
THE MAZAMA COUNCIL,
Portland, Oregon.
Dear Sirs:
In accordance with your instructions I have audited the accounts of
the Mazamas for the fiscal year ended October 6, 1919, and present herewith
my report. After meeting all expenses, the operations of the Club for the
period under review resulted in net profits of $3,008.72, which are set forth
in the accompanying Income and Profit & Loss Account. The Balance
Sheet, given on this page, reflects the financial condition of the Club as at
October 6, 1919.
The cash funds have been verified by a certificate from the bank. The
United States Liberty Bonds are filed in a safety deposit vault.
The accounts of the Treasurer and the various Committees were exam-
ined and found to be in order.
Yours truly,
ROBERT F. RISELINGK
Certified Public Accountant.
Address of the Retiring President
FELLOW MEMBERS:
As retiring president and member of what will be known
in Mazama history as the "Ladies' Executive Council," I wish
to make a very brief report of the activities of the Mazamas
during the past year. Greatly to the surprise of the early cri-
tics, the closing year has been one of the most successful and
prosperous ever enjoyed by the club and the credit for this be-
longs to a great extent to the six lady members of the council,
even if they were ably assisted by The Three Wise Men. The
club membership grew during the year from 411 to 465. The
cash in the treasury increased from $1092 to $4000. The small
quarters in the Northwestern Bank Building were changed to
our present beautiful suite of rooms in the Chamber of Com-
merce Building, where we have ample room for council meet-
ings, official club meetings and social gatherings of all kinds.
Our banquet and dance in honor of our returning service men
and women was attended by a large number and was a delight-
ful affair. Our local walks are becoming increasingly popular
and enjoyable.
Our Rainier summer outing was one of the most successful
ever given by the Mazamas, both as regards attendance and gen-
eral satisfaction. A noteworthy feature was the participation
in the outing of a very large number of eminent men from all
parts of the country, whose presence gave us one of the most
brilliant series of camp-fire sessions ever experienced by the
Mazamas.
In closing, I thank the ladies and gentlemen of the retiring
Council for their unfailing kindness and courtesy to me and I
wish the incoming president a year as full of pleasure in his
duties as I have enjoyed.
EDGAR E. COURSEN.
MR. THEODORE ROOSEVELT
MR. H. L. PITTOCK
MISS HILDA PLEBECK
MR. JOHN D. MEREDITH
In Memoriam
MR. THEODORE ROOSEVELT
Born October 27, 1858 ; died January 6, 1919. Was for
several years an honorary member of the Mazamas.
MR. H. L. PITTOCK
Born March 1, 1835; died January 28, 1919. Was a
charter member of the Mazamas and was chosen Pres-
ident of the club in 1897.
Miss HILDA PLEBECK
Died September 12, 1919. Was elected a member of
the Mazamas August 19, 1919.
MR. JOHN D. MEREDITH
Born November 17, 1888 ; died August 15, 1919. Was
elected a member of the Mazamas August 8, 1916. He
served in France with Base Hospital No. 46, and had
just returned and joined the members at the Annual
Outing on Rainier. He lost his life while descending
Little Tahoma.
Book Reviews
Edited by MINNIE R. HEATH.
"THE APPLEWOMAN The apple-growing country of Washington is
OF THE KLICKITAT" presented as a fresh, new sort of frontier in
which an eastern woman develops a quarter-
section of government land into an orchard.
Her untiring interest in the success of the venture led her into many
experiences new, not only to her, but to women in general. Intertwined
with the story of apple-culture are many delightfully portrayed incidents of
the lives of her neighbors and friends, the genuineness of her presentation
being attested by the comment of a reader familiar with the environs, to
the effect that "I'm glad that someone has ben able to tell just what really
happened in that section, for it isn't often that the inhabitants, both native
and otherwise, are so correctly estimated."
It is a book full of interest for both East and West.
ANNA VAN RENSSELAER MORRIS. "The Applewoman of the Klickitat."
1918. Duffield & Company, 211 West 33rd Street, New York.
"IN THE WILDS OF Countless dangers encountered and endless hard-
SOUTH AMERICA" ships cheerfully endured in the quest for know-
ledge of a country widely known and little under-
stood— thus may be summarized the adventures related in the more than
four hundred pages of this book, most of which teem with attention-com-
pelling narrative of the author's impressions gathered during six years of
scientific investigation of these great areas, and of the animal and vegetable
life maintained there.
Who has not been thrilled by the stories of the Incas and the Spanish
Conquistadores? What boy or girl is not familiar with the "Conquest of
Peru"? Of course everyone knows that South America has boa constrictors,
jaguars, condors, rubber trees, mountains twenty-two thousand feet high
and the greatest river in the world. Mr. Miller, the explorer-scientist, in
this book dedicated to "my wife," seems to be constantly endeavoring to
picture to one at home the facts observed and the sentiments inspired by
his voyage through and over this vast wonderland.
The following extracts from the preface form a very fair key to the
book: "Six years of almost continuous exploration in South America —
explorations into the tropical jungles of the Amazon, Paraguay, Orinoco and
other of South America's master rivers, and to the frigid heights of the snow-
crowned Andes" — "To start at the sudden, long-drawn hss of a boa or the
lightning-like thrust of the terrible bush-master, the largest of poisonous
snakes" — "ascents of the stupendous mountain ranges where condors soar
majestically above the ruins of Incan greatness."
Among his trips is included the one with our great nature-lover, Theo-
dore Roosevelt, in 1913 and 1914.
Book Reviews 371
A delightful bit of description, and somewhat characteristic of the book,
has to do with the town of Cali, Colombia, where children were seen bath-
ing and ducks swimming in a gutter stream from which a housewife dipped
a pitcher of water for domestic use. And yet "Embroidery and music are
the chief diversions" (of women) and "it was remarkable to notice how
many pianos there were, when we consider that each instrument has to be
brought over the Andes slung on poles and carried by mules."
With all the dangers and hardships, the descriptions are so interesting
and so intimate that one is led to feel as the author felt when in concentra-
tion camp preparatory to departure for the war zone of Europe — "almost
daily my thoughts go back to the great wonderland that lies south of us,
and which I have learned to love. Speed the day when I may again eager-
ly scan the horizon for a first faint tinge of its palm-fringed shore-line."
C. E. WARNER.
LEO E. MILLER, of the American Museum of Natural History. "IN
THE WILDS OF SOUTH AMERICA." 1918. Chas. Scribner's Sons, New York.
"THE LAND OF There are endless opportunities in Alaska for the man
TOMORROW" with courage enough to seize them, is the opinion of the
author of this fascinating little book. The land for which
we paid two cents an acre has practically untouched resources. The gold,
copper and coal mines, the immense fisheries, and the reindeer meat in-
dustry are capable of development far beyond their present output.
The author was formerly United States Commissioner at St. Michael's,
Alaska, and his travels for pleasure and in the course of his work enabled
him to see a great deal of the country. Consequently he is able to give the
reader a summary of the people, social life, and customs of our northern
territory which is truly amazing.
He does not neglect the Alaskan scenic beauty, which has made people
call it the "Eighth Wonder of the World." The description of Mt. McKin-
ley and of the smaller peaks are of especial interest to mountaineers. Mt.
Katmai and the wonderful "Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes" are also
briefly described.
For one who desires a picture of Alaska as it is today, this book will
meet his need.
CLARENCE A. HOGAN.
"THE GRIZZLY, OUR GREATEST This gives the experience of the
WILD ANIMAL" author's acquaintance with the griz-
zly during his many years of life
among the Rocky Mountains. The book contains fascinating bear stories
and explains that the grizzly's true character is defensive and not aggres-
sive. During the greater part of his life Mr. Mills has lived in the grizzly
bear country and camped for months without a gun. He has trailed them
and studied their habits, observed their sagacity, and has found them ani-
mals of wonderful endurance, masters of strategy, sensing danger from
afar, and ever ready for something new in their environment. "He is an
expert in eluding his pursuer, he rivals the fox in concealing his trail, in
confounding the trailer and escaping with his life."
372 Book Reviews
Lovers of animal life will enjoy reading this book, and after doing so
will admire the grizzly and will be ready to agree with the naturalists that
it would be a glorious thing if everybody appreciated his real character.
C. N. MORGAN.
ENOS A. MILLER. "The Grizzly, Our Greatest Wild Animal." Houghton
Mifflin Co. Illustrated. $2.00.
"ADVENTURES IN This is a series of eight thrilling short stories,
ALASKA" each complete in itself, representing phases of
Alaskan life all the way from Fort Wrangell to
Behring Sea. Its author is Dr. Young, "Sour Dough Preacher," "Mushing
Parson," "Alaska Sky Pilot." The fact that he confesses pride in these
names bestowed upon him by the people he served shows something of the
character of the man — has that rare combination, the experience of forty
years of Alaska pioneer life coupled with the descriptive power to make
you see and feel what he has seen and felt during his long experience as
a frontier missionary.
His descriptive style is typical of the Northland and his church asso-
ciation appears in these narratives only as a part of the framework in
which are shown beautiful word-pictures of strong rugged men and women
in a grand and beautiful but severe country.
In his foreword he expresses the hope that these stories of Alaska
"will afford healthy-minded young people a true idea of some phases of
human and animal life there." This hope is certainly realized, for the tales
are true in detail beyond doubt, and so written as to hold us enthralled
while we read of "Bunch Grass Bill, the Nome saloon-keeper, "Louie Paul
and the Hootz" (brown bear), "Old Snook" and other characters and episodes
which serve to complete the volume.
An item of added interest to Mazamas lies in the fact that Dr. Young
was an intimate friend of John Muir and owned the dog "Stickeen," subject
of the little book of that name, by Muir.
CHARLES E. WARNER.
S. HALL YOUNG. "Adventures in Alaska." 1919. Fleming H. Revell
Company, New York.
"THE BOOK OF This is a work which will readily appeal to the
NATIONAL PARKS" wide-awake American who loves the out-of-doors.
The author describes our national parks, not as
meaningless scenery, but as a thrilling story of creation. He explains how
much more vital and personal an interest we will take in our parks when
we really know and understand them. He then gives the geologic facts
concerning the parks in a most instructive and interesting manner. How
few Americans realize that our parks excel in scenic quality the combined
scenery in all the rest of the world together. To quote the author:
"They are the gallery of masterpieces and the museums of the ages."
NELLIE C. GROUT.
ROBERT STERLING YARD. "The Book of National Parks." 1919.
Illustrated. Chas. Scribner's Sons. $3.00.
Book Reviews 373
"NEW RIVERS An exceedingly interesting account of the travels
OF THE NORTH" and adventures of the author and Auville Eager on a
trip to the head waters of the Frazer, the Peace and
the Hay rivers in Northwestern Canada. To the lover of the great out-
doors this book will have a strong appeal and makes one wish that he had
been one of the party, sharing alike the hardships as well as the joys and
pleasures of the trails, the waters and the mountains. May this adventur-
ous, pioneering spirit of our New World never cease.
F. M. REDMAN.
HULBERT FOOTNER. "New Rivers of the North." $2.00. George H.
Doran Company, New York.
"CALIFORNIA The desert, with its seemingly endless sand and
DESERT TRAILS" skies, is made vitally interesting because of the
companionable way in which the author takes the
reader with him through the various phases of desert scenery and life, by
day and by night. The author disclaims any intention of making the book
one of scientific research, yet in describing his impressions of the desert
country, one finds much material of instructive value.
The author states, "But I confess that the fascination of the untamed
desert has proved to be of too subtle a quality for words of mine to render."
Appendix A is a digest of "Hints on Desert Traveling" and teems with
valuable suggestions.
Appendix B concerns "Noticeable Plants of the Desert," which are
classified and briefly described.
The book gives one a feeling of enjoyment in the author's extended
trip across the Colorado Desert, which lies mainly in the state of California
and contains such characteristics as palm oases, canyons, cacti, shrubs,
flowers and bustling towns at places where irrigation has reclaimed the
desert. M. R. H.
J. SMEATON CHASE. "California Trails." Houghton Mifflin Co. 1919.
$3.00.
Teach me your mood, 0 patient starsy
Who climb each night the ancient sky,
Leaving on space no shade, no scars,
No trace of age, no fear to die. — Emerson.
Mazama Membership List, November i, 1919
ACTON, HARRY W., 519 West 121st
St., New York, N. Y.
ACTON, MRS. HARRY W., 519 West
121st St., New York, N. W.
ADAMS, DR. W. CLAUDE S., 1010
East 28th St., N., Portland, Ore.
AITCHISON, CLYDE B., Interstate
Commerce Commission, Washing-
ton, D. C.
AKIN, DR. OTIS F., 919 Corbett
Building, Portland, Ore.
ALLARD, NAN P., Foot of Miles
St., Portland, Ore.
ALLEN, ENID C., 917 Andrus Build-
ing, Minneapolis, Minn.
ALMY, LOUISA, Box 426, Dillon,
Montana.
AMOS, DR. WM. F., 1016 Selling
Building, Portland, Ore.
ANDERSON, LEROY E., 206 Mer-
cantile Place, Los Angeles, Calif.
ANDERSON, WM. H., 4464 Fremont
Ave., Seattle, Washington.
ANDRAE, GERTRUDE ELOISE,
206 East 71st St., Portland, Ore.
APPLEGATE, ELMER I., Klamath
Falls, Ore.
ASCHOFF, ADOLF, Marmot, Ore.
ASCHOFF, OTTO, Linnton, Ore.
ATKINSON, R. H., American Chain
Co., 603 Beck Building, Portland,
Ore.
AT'LAS, CHAS. E.
AVERILL, MARTHA M., 1144 Haw-
thorne Ave., Portland, Ore.
AYER, ROY W., 689 Everett St.,
Portland, Ore.
AYER, LEROY Jr., P. O. Box 88,
Crawfordsville, Ore.
BABB, HAROLD S.f 583 Miller Ave.,
Portland, Ore.
BACKUS, LOUISE, 122 East 16th
St., Portland, Ore.
BACKUS, MINNA, 122 East 16th
St., Portland, Ore.
BAGLEY, FRANK S.
BAILEY, A. A., JR., 644 East Ash
St., Portland, Ore.
BAILEY, VERNON, 1834 Kalorama
Ave., Washington, D. C.
BALLOU, O. B., 80 Broadway, Port-
land, Ore.
BALMANNO, JACK H., 611 East
56th St., N., Portland, Ore.
BALOGH, W. A., 125 Sixth St.,
Portland, Ore.
BANFIELD, ALICE, 570 East Ash
St., Portland, Ore.
BARCK. DR. C., 205-207 Humboldt
'Building, St. Louis, Mo.
BARNES, M. H., May Apartments,
Apt. No. 44, Portland, Ore.
BARNES, MRS. M. H., May Apart-
ments, Apt. No. 44, Portland, Ore.
BARRINGER, ALICE, 415 Tenth
St., Portland, Ore.
BARRINGAR, MAUDE, 1207 Dear-
born St., Caldwell, Idaho.
BATES, MYRTLE, 448 East 7th
St., Portland, Ore.
BEAN, MRS. IDORA M., 113 D St.,
La Verne, Calif.
BEATTIE, BYRON J., 830 Rodney
Ave., Portland, Ore.
BELL, HALLIE, Carlton Hotel, No.
515, Portland, Ore.
BENEDICT, LEE, 185 East 87th St.,
N., Portland, Ore.
BENEDICT, MAE, 185 East 87th
St., Portland, Ore.
BENTALL, MAURICE, General De-
livery, Hathaway, Montana.
BENZ, CHAS. A., P. O. Box 1433,
Missoula, Montana.
BERG, MRS. G. ALBERT, Minerva,
Iowa.
BIDWELL, EDMUND, 701 Corbett
Building, Portland, Ore.
BIGGS, ROSCOE G., 284 East 6th
St. N., Portland, Ore.
BISSELL, GEO. W., 223 W. Emer-
son St., Portland, Ore.
BLACKINTON, PAULINE, 169 Six-
teenth St., Portland, Ore.
BLAKNEY, C. E., R. F. D. No. 2,
Box 151, Milwaukie, Ore.
BLUE, WALTER, 1306 East 32nd
St., N., Portland, Ore.
BLUMENAUER, FLORENCE, 1133
Rodney Ave., Portland, Ore.
BODWAY, W. P.
BORNT, LULU ADELE, 641 East
13th St., Portland, Ore.
BOWERS, NATHAN A., 501 Rialto
Building, San Francisco, Calif.
BOWIE, ANN, 361 Eleventh St.,
Portland, Ore.
BOWIE, MARGARET, 361 Eleventh
St., Portland, Ore.
BOYCE, EDWARD, 207 St. Clair
St., Portland, Ore.
BOYCHUK, WALTER, 174 Meade
St., Portland, Ore.
BRENNAN, THERESA, 380 Mont-
gomery St., Portland, Ore.
BREWSTER, WM. L., 1022 Gasco
Building, Portland, Ore.
BROCKMAN, GUS., 329 Burnside
St., Portland, Ore.
BRONAUGH, JERRY ENGLAND,
Gasco Building, Portland, Ore.
Membership
375
BRONAUGH, GEORGE, 350 North
32nd St., Portland, Ore.
BROWN, ALBERT S., 676 Riverside
Drive, New York, N. Y.
BROWN, G. T., 500 East Morrison
St., Portland, Ore.
BRUNELL, EVA, 18 Abbott St., Wor-
cester, Mass.
BUCK, C. J., 549 East 39th St., N.,
Portland, Ore.
BULLIVANT, ANNA, 269 Thir-
teenth .St., Portland, Ore.
BUNNAGE, R. H., 696 Sherrett St.,
Portland, Ore.
BURGLUND, E. E., 201 Union Ave.,
N., Portland, Ore.
BUSH, FRANK H., 1224 E. 31st St.
N., Portland, Ore.
BUSH, J. C., 683 J4 E. Morrison St.,
Portland, Ore.
BJORKLUND, ERIC, 711 East Flan-
ders St., Portland, Ore.
BARNES, E. L., 658 Schuyler St.,
Portland, Ore.
BUERNIE, CLARA MACGREGOR,
Box 136, Portland, Ore.
CALHOUN, MRS. HARRIET S., 38
Delaware Ave., Detroit, Mich.
CALDWELL, CHARLOTTE, 309 San
Rafael St., Portland, Ore.
CAMPBELL, GRACE, 600 E. Fiftieth
St. N., Portland, Ore.
CAMPBELL, DAVID, care Mrs. Mary
Campbell, Monmouth, Ore.
CAMPBELL, P, L.. 1170 Thirteenth
Ave., East, Eugene, Ore.
GARY, N. LEROY, U. S. Forest
Service, Portland, Ore.
CARL, MRS. BEULAH MILLER,
629 East Ash St., Portland, Ore.
CARROLL, RANDOLPH S., 250 N.
24th .St., Portland, Ore.
CASE, GEORGENE M., 3700 Cali-
fornia St., San Francisco, Calif.
CATCHING, EVA, Carlton Hotel,
Portland, Ore.
CECIL, K. P., Portland, Ore.
CHAMBERLAIN, RUTH, 685 Elliott
Ave., Portland, Ore.
CHAMBERS, MARY H., 729 Elev-
enth Ave., E., Eugene, Ore.
CHASE, J. WESTON, Brix Lumber
Co., Pittock Block, Portland, Ore.
CHENOWETH, MAY, 104 East 24th
St., N., Portland, Ore.
CHRISTIANSON, WM. D., 134 Co-
burn St., Brantford, Ont.
CLARK, WM. D.
CHURCH, WALTER E., 1170 Thir-
teenth Ave., E., Eugene, Ore.
CHURCHILL, ARTHUR M., 1229
Northwestern Bank Building,
Portland, Ore.
CLARK, J. HOMER, 92 Front St.,
Portland, Ore.
COLBORN. MRS. AVIS EDWARDS,
Clovis, New Mexico.
COLLINS, W. G., 510 32nd Ave.,
South, Seattle, Washington.
**COLVILLE, PROF. F. V., Dept. of
Agriculture, Washington, D. C.
CONNELL, DR. E. DEWITT, 628
Salmon St., Portland, Ore
CONWAY, D. J., 4705 .Sixtieth St.,
S. E., Portland, Ore.
CONWAY, T. RAYMOND, 4705 Six-
tieth St., S. E., Portland, Ore.
COOK, ARTHUR, 243 W. Park St.,
Portland, Ore.
COOK, F. R., 430 East 40th St.
North, Portland, Ore.
CORNING, H. I., 255 Cherry St.,
Portland, Ore.
COURSEN, EDGAR E., 658 Lovejoy
St., Portland, Ore.
COWPERTHWAITE, JULIA, Station
E, Portland, Ore.
COWIE, LILLIAN G., 37 Wellesley
Court, Portland, Ore.
CREIGHTON, LOLA I., 920 East
Everett St., Portland, Ore.
GROUT, NELLE C., 1326 Tillamook
St., Portland, Ore.
CURRIER, GEORGE H., Leona,
Ore.
**CURTIS, EDWARD S., 614 Second
Ave., Seattle, Wash.
CUSHMAN, CLYDE H., 458 E. 21st
St. N., Portland, Ore.
CUTTING, RUT/H M., 615 Elliott
Ave., Portland, Ore.
COOK, VERA E., 1798 Woolsey St.,
Portland, Ore.
**DAVIDSON, PROF. GEORGE, 530
California St., San Francisco,
Calif.
DAVIDSON, R. J., 1391^ Sandy Blvd.
Portland, Ore.
DAY, BESSIE, 690 Olive St., Eugene,
Ore.
**DILLER, PROF. JOS., U. S. Geo-
logical Survey, Washington, D. C.
DILLINGER, MRS. C. E., 547 East
39th St., Portland, Ore.
DOWLING, EUGENE H., 742 Bel-
mont St., Portland, Ore.
DOWLING, MRS. COLISTA M., 742
Belmont St., Portland, Ore.
DUDLEY, ALEXANDER P., 1240
East 30th St. N., Portland, Ore.
DUDLEY, MRS. ALEXANDER P.,
1240 East 30th St., Portland, Ore.
DUFFY, MARGARET C., 1724 North
Steel St., Tacoma, Wash.
DYER, R. L., 1323 Terry Ave.,
.Seattle, Wash.
EMMRICH, ARTHUR J., 690 East
67th St., N., Portland, Ore.
ENGLISH, NEDSON, 267 Hazel Fern
St., Portland, Ore.
ERREN, H. W., 285 Ross St., Port-
land, Ore.
376
Membership
ESTES, MARGARET P., 692 East
43rd St., N., Portland, Ore.
EVANS, WM. W., 744 Montgom-
ery Drive, Portland, Ore.
FAGSTAD, THOR, Cathlamet, Wash.
FALLMAN, NINA A., 151 Park St.,
Portland, Ore.
FARRELL, THOS. G., 328 East 25th
St., Portland, Ore.
FARRELLY, JANE, 1072 East 29th
St. N., Portland, Ore.
FELLOWS, LESTER O., 4309 74th
St. S. E., Portland, Ore.
FETY, TOMINE, 247 Grant St.,
Portland, Ore.
FINLEY, MRS. IRENE, 651 East
Madison St., Portland, Ore.
FINLEY, WM. L., 651 East Madi-
son St., Portland, Ore.
FISH, ELMA, 259 East 46th St.,
Portland, Ore.
FLEMING, MARGARET A., 214
Post Office Building, Portland,
Ore.
FLESHER, J. N., Carson, Wash.
FORD, G. L.f 104 Fourth St., Port-
land, Ore.
FORMAN, W. P., 128 North 18th
St., Portland, Ore.
FORSYTH, JAMES R., 1028 Wil-
liams Ave., Portland, Ore.
FOSTER, FORREST L., 354 East
49th St., S. E., Portland, Ore.
FOSTER, HERBERT J., 1537 Cur-
tiss Ave., Portland, Ore.
FOSTER, W. C., 224 Glenn Ave.,
Portland, Ore.
FRANKLIN, F. G., Willamette Uni-
versity, Salem, Ore.
FRANING, ELEANOR, 549 N. Broad
St., Galesburg, 111.
FRIES, SAMUEL M., 691 Flanders
St., Portland, Ore.
FULLER, MARGARET E., 115 East
69th St., Portland, Ore.
GARDNER, BERNICE J., Apt. 33,
Knickerbocker Apts., 410 Harri-
son St., Portland, Ore.
GARRETT, GEO., 646 Cypress St.,
Portland, Ore.
GASCH, MARTHA M., 9 East 15th
St. N., Portland, Ore.
GEORGE, LUCIE M., 345 Clay St.,
Portland, Ore.
GILBERT, HAROLD S., 384 Yam-
hill St., Portland, Ore.
GILBERTSON, MART'HA, 656 Flan-
ders St., Portland, Ore.
GILE, ELEANOR, 622 Kearney St.,
Portland, Ore.
GILMOUR, W. A., Title & Trust
Bldg,. Portland, Ore.
GIRSBERGER, MABEL R., Modoc
Lumber Co., Chiloquin, Ore.
GLISAN, RODNEY L., 612 Spald-
ing Bldg., Portland, Ore.
GOLDAPP, MARTHA OLGA, 455
East 12th St., Portland, Ore.
GOLDSTEIN, MAX, 575 Third St.,
Portland, Ore.
*GORMAN, M. W., Forestry Building,
Portland, Ore.
GRAF, S. H., 2260 Monroe St., Cor-
vallis, Ore.
GRASSL, MRS. CHAS. W., 547 East
39th St., Portland, Ore.
GRAVES, HENRY S., U. S. Forest
Service, Washington, D. C.
**GREELEY, GEN'L A. W., General
Delivery, Center Conway, N. H.
GRENFELL, MRS. W. H., 1628 Bel-
mont St., Portland, Ore.
GRIFFIN, MARGARET A., 1605-6
Pioneer Building, Robert St., .St.
Paul, Minn.
GRIFFITH, B. W., 417 Boyd St.,
Los Angeles, Calif.,
HAFFENDEN, A. H. S., 4236 49th
Ave. S. E., Portland, Ore.
HALLINGBY, OLGA, 767 East Flan-
ders St., Portland, Ore.
HANSEN, BESSIE L., 577 Kerby
St., Portland, Ore.
HANSEN, RUTH E., 577 Kerby St.,
Portland, Ore.
HANSEN, ROSWELL J., Box 366,
Vancouver, Wash.
HARBISON, RUTH L., 556 Fifth
St., Hillsboro, Ore.
HARDESTY, WM. P., 617 Chamber
of Commerce Building, Portland,
Ore.
HARDINGHAUS, EVELYN, Weaver
Hotel, Portland, Oregon.
HARNOIS, PEARL E., 1278 Wil-
liams Ave., Portland, Ore.
HARPER, IRA H., 2801 H Street,
Vancouver, Wash.
HARPER, MRS. IRA H., 2801 H
Street, Vancouver, Wash.
HARRIS, CHARLOTTE M., 1195
East 29th St., N., Portland, Ore.
HART NESS, GEORGE, 671 Clacka-
mas St., Portland, Ore.
HARZA, L. F., 505 Harvester Bldg.,
Chicago, ill.
HATCH, LAURA, 36 Bedford Ter-
race, Northampton, Mass.
HAWKINS, E. R., 17 Union Station,
Portland, Ore.
HAZARD, JOSEPH T., 4050 First
Ave. N. E., Seattle, Wash.
HEATH, MINNIE R., 665 Everett
St., Portland, Ore.
HEDENE, PAUL F., 720 East 22nd
St., N., Portland, Ore.
HEINZE, AMY A., 261 Fourteenth
St., Portland, Ore.
HELFRICH, CHARLES S.
HEMPY, M. RAYMOND, M. A. A. C.,
Portland, Ore.
Henderson, G. P., 1087 Belmont St.,
Portland, Ore.
Membership
377
HENDRICKSON, J. HUNT, Spalding
Building, Portland, Ore.
HENRY, E. G., Newberg, Ore.
HENTHORNE, MARY C., 1834 East
Morrison St., Portland, Ore.
HERMANN, HELEN M., 965 Ker-
by St., Portland, Ore.
HEYER, A. L., JR., 744 Hastings
St. West, Vancouver, B. C.
HIGH, AUGUSTUS, 300 West 13th
St., Vancouver, Wash.
HILTON, FRANK H., 504 Penton
Building, Portland, Ore.
HIMES, GEORGE H., Auditorium,
Portland, Ore.
HINE, A. R., 955 East Taylor St.,
Portland, Ore.
HITCH, ROBERT E., Box 652 Ju-
neau, Alaska.
HODGSON, CASPAR W., Rockland
Ave., Park Hill, Yonkers, N. Y.
HOGAN, CLARENCE A., 591 Borth-
wick St., Portland, Ore.
HOLDEN, JAMES E., 1652 Alameda
Drive, Portland, Ore.
HOLLISTER, HELEN, 550 East
Main St., Portland, Ore.
HOLMAN, P. C., 558 Lincoln Ave.,
Palo Alto, Calif.
HORN, C. L., Wheeldon Annex, Port-
land, Ore.
HOWARD, HAZEL, 682 East 42nd
St., North, Portland, Ore.
HOWARD, ERNEST E., 1012 Balti-
more Ave., Kansas City, Mo.
HOWLAND, LUTHER H., 1207 East
Flanders St., Portland, Ore.
IVANAKEFF, PASHO, 246 Clacka-
mas St., Portland, Ore.
IVEY, RALPH S., R. P. D., Milwau-
kie, Ore.
JACOBS, MARY B., 315 Eleventh
St., Portland, Ore.
JAEGER, J. P., 131 Sixth St., Port-
land, Ore.
JANE, GWENDOLEN, 1540 Haw-
thorne Ave., Portland, Ore.
JEPPESEN, ALICE, 891 Albina Ave.,
Portland, Ore.
JOHNSON, FRED J., Box 233, Sal-
mon, Idaho.
JOHNSON, H. G., Brockton, Mon-
tana.
JOHNSTON, AMY, 545 East 23rd
.St., North, Portland, Ore.
JONES, F. I., 507 Davis St., Port-
land, Ore.
JOYCE, ALICE V., 591 Marshall
St., Portland, Ore.
KACH, F. G.
KERN, EMMA B., 335 Fourteenth
St., Portland, Ore.
KERR, DR. D. T., 556 Morgan Build-
ing, Portland, Ore.
KETCHUM, VERNE L., U. S. Ship-
ping Board, Securities Building,
Seattle, Wash.
KLEPPER. MILTON REED, Mult-
nomah Hotel, Portland, Ore.
KOEMMECKE, MARIE, 1278 Wil-
liams Ave., Portland, Ore.
KOOL, JAN, 1309 Yeon Building,
Portland, Ore.
KREBS, H. M., 285 Ross St., Port-
land, Ore.
KREINER, ROSE, 374 Third St.,
Portland, Ore.
KRESS, CHARLOTTE, Campbell-
Hill Hotel, Portland, Ore.
KRUSE, JOHANNA, R. F. D., Route
A, Portland, Ore.
KUENEKE, ALMA R., 869 Clinton
St., Portland, Ore.
KUNKEL, HARRIET, 405 Larch St.,
Portland, Ore.
KUNKEL, KATHERINE, 857 Gar-
field Ave., Portland, Ore.
LA MADE, ERIC, 455 West Park
St., Portland, Ore.
LADD, HENRY A., care Ladd &
Tilton Bank, Portland, Ore.
LADD, W. M., care Ladd & Tilton
Bank, Portland, Ore.
LANDIS, MARTHA, 2019 East Main
St., Portland, Ore.
LANE, JOHN L., 2057 87th Ave.,
Oakland, Calif.
LANE, MRS, JOHN L., 2057 87th
Ave., Oakland, Calif.
LAW^FFER, G. A., 104 Fourth St.
Portland, Ore.
LAWSON, AGNES G., 767 Mont-
gomery Drive, Portland, Ore.
LEADBETTER, F. W., 795 Park
Ave., Portland, Ore.
LEE, JOHN A., 505-6 Concord Build-
ing, Portland, Ore.
LEE, MARY KNAPP, 656 Flanders
St., Portland, Ore.
LERDALL, ELMER
LETZ, JACQUES, State Bank of
Portland, Ore.
LEWIS, CLYDE E., 407 Fourth St.,
Portland, Ore.
LIBBY, HARRY C., 422 East Stan-
ton St., Portland, Ore.
LIND, ARTJHUR, care U. S. Nation-
al Bank, Portland, Ore.
LOUCKS, ETHEL MAE, 466 East
8th St., North, Portland, Ore.
LEE, FAIRMAN B., 1217 Sixth Ave.,
Seattle, Wash.
LTJETTERS, F. P., 133 Vine Street,
Roselle, N. J.
LUND, WALTER, 191 Grand Ave. N.,
Portland, Ore.
LUTHER, DR. C. V.. 401 Selling
Building, Portland, Ore.
LYON, GEORGIA E., 297 Broadway,
Chicopee Falls, Mass.
Me ARTHUR, LEWIS A., 561 Haw-
thorne Terrace, Portland, Ore.
McBRIDE, AGNES, P. O. Box 383,
Oswego, Ore.
MCCLELLAND, ELIZABETH, 267
Shawnee Path. Akron, Ohio.
378
Membership
McCOLLOM, DR. J. W., 553-557
Morgan Building, Portland, Ore.
McCORKLE, J. F., 506 Washington
St., Portland, Ore.
McCOY, SALLIE E., 211 Lumber-
mans Building, Portland, Ore.
McCREADY, SUE O., Box 147, Van-
couver, Wash.
McCULLOCH, CHARLES E., 1410
Yeon Building, Portland, Ore.
MCDONALD, MRS. LAURA H., 354
East 49th St., S., Portland, Ore.
McISAAC, R. J., Parkdale, Ore.
McKAUGHAN, HENRIETTA, 375
Sixteenth St., Portland, Ore.
MCLAUGHLIN, SADIE, 648 Kline
St., Portland, Ore.
McMASTER, RUTH E., 660 East
Oak St., Portland, Ore.
MCNEIL, FLORENCE, eo? Orange
St., Portland, Ore.
McNEIL, FRED H., care The Jour-
nal, Portland, Ore.
MacDOUGALL, CHARLOTTE, Alex-
ander Hotel, Spokane, Wash.
MACKENZIE, WM. R., 1002 Wilcox
Building, Portland, Ore.
MAHONEY, MRS. HELENA C., 1238
Commonwealth Ave., Boston, Mass
MAHONEY, PAUL, 1238 Common-
wealth Ave., Boston, Mass.
MARBLE, W. B., 3147 Indiana Ave.,
Chicago, 111.
MARCOTTE, HENRY, D. D., 218 E.
56th St., Kansas City, Mo.
MARCY, EDITH, 309 First National
Bank Building, The Dalles, Ore.
MARSH, J. W., Underwood, Wash.
MARSHALL, BERTHA, 1445 B St.,
San Diego, Calif.
MATT SON, DON F., 412 Oregon
Building, Portland, Ore.
MEARS, HENRY S., 494 Northrup
St., Portland, Ore.
MEARS, S. M., 721 Flanders St.,
Portland, Ore.
MEREDITH, MRS. C. M., 735 Hills-
boro Ave., Portland, Ore.
MEREDITH, DAISY LORENA, 263
Miles St., Portland, Ore.
MEREDITH, GEORGE, llth and
Burnside Sts., Portland, Ore.
MEREDITH, HELEN E., 735 Hills-
boro Ave., Portland, Ore.
**MERRIAM, DR. C. HART, 1919
Sixteenth St. N. W., Washington,
D. C.
MERTEN, CHARLES J., 307 Davis
St., Portland, Ore.
MILES, S., Room 1411, 80 Maiden
Lane, New York, N. Y.
MILLER, JESSE, 726 E. 20th St.,
Portland, Ore.
MILLS, ENOS A., Long's Peak, Estes
Park, Colorado
MONROE, HARRIETT E., 1431 East
Salmon St., Portland, Ore.
MONTAGUE, JACK R., 1310 Yeon
Building, Portland, Ore.
MONTAGUE, RICHARD W., 1310
Yeon Building, Portland, Ore.
MOORE, DUNCAN, 1303 Chamber of
Commerce Building, Chicago, 111.
MORGAN, MRS. CHRISTINE N.,
Box 144, Palms, Calif.
MORKILL, ALAN BROOKS, 1971
Oak Bay Ave., Victoria, B. C.
MUELLHAUPT, OSCAR W. T., 407-
409 U. S. National Bank Building,
Portland, Ore.
MURPHY, JOHN, 973 East Stark
St., Portland, Ore.
MCELROY, FLORENCE, 954 Glad-
stone Ave., Portland, Ore.
NALLEY, JOHN F., 129 Rhode
Island Ave., N. E., Washington,
D. C.
NEELS, CARL, 495 Jefferson St.,
Portland, Ore.
NELSON, BUELL C., 128 North
Eighteenth St., Portland, Ore.
NELSON, L. A., West Coast Lum-
bermens Ass'n, 1207 Yeon Build-
ing, Portland, Ore.
NEWELL, BEN W., Ladd & Tilton
Bank, Portland, Ore.
NEWLYN, MRS. HAROLD V., 689
Northrup St., Portland, Ore.
NEWTON, JOSEPHINE, 1350 Pine
St., Philadelphia, Pa.
NIECHANS, MARGARET, 353 Har-
rison St., Portland, Ore.
NICKELL, ANNA, 410 Stanley Apts.,
Seattle, Wash.
NILS.SON, MARTHA E., 320 East
llth St., N., Portland, Ore.
NISSEN, IRENE, 969 East 23rd
St., N., Portland, Ore.
NORDEEN, EDITH, 361 Graham
St., Portland, Ore.
NORMAN, OSCAR M., 698 East 62nd
St., N., Portland, Ore.
NOTTINGHAM, JESSIE RAY, 271
East 16th St., N., Portland, Ore.
NUNAN, CINITA, 489 W. Park St.,
Portland, Ore.
O'BRYAN, HARVEY, 602 McKay
Building, Portland, Ore.
*O'NEILL, MARK, Worcester Block,
Portland, Ore.
OGLESBY, ETTA M., 818 Lombard
St., Portland, Ore.
ORMANDY, HARRY M., 501 Weid-
ler St., Portland, Ore.
ORMANDY, JAMES A., 501 Weid-
ler St., Portland, Ore.
OLSON, RUTH, 919 Borthwick St.,
Portland, Ore.
OTIS, EMILY, 525 Yeon Bldg., Port-
land, Ore.
PAETH, WILLIAM J., U. S. Forest
Service, Portland, Ore.
PARKER, ALFRED F., 374 East
51st St., Portland, Ore.
PARKER, JAMIESON, 374 East
51st St., Portland, Ore.
Membership
379
PARKER, ROSE F., Butterfield
Bros., Portland, Ore.
PARKER, MRS. W., Box 34, Route
1, Milwaukie, Ore.
PARSONS, MRS. M. R., Mosswood
Road, University Hill, Berkeley,
California.
PATTULLrO, A. S., 500 Concord
Building, Portland, Ore.
PAUER, JOHN, 1625 26th St., Sacra-
mento, Calif.
PAYTON, PERLEE G., 3916 64th
St., S. E., Portland, Ore.
PEARCE, MRS. LLEWELLYN C.,
1137 E. Yamhill St., Portland, Ore.
PENDLETON, CECIL M., 285 H
First St., Portland, Ore.
PENLAND, JOHN R., Box 345, Al-
bany, Ore.
PENWELL, ESTHER, 95 East 74th
St., Portland, Ore.
PETERSON, AUGUST, Y. M. C. A.,
Portland, Ore.
PETERSON, ARTHUR S., 780 Wil-
liams Ave., Portland, Ore.
PETERSON, E. F., 780 Williams
Ave., Portland, Ore.
PETERSON, H. C., M. A. A. C.,
Portland, Ore.
PETERSON, LAURA H., 395*4 Clif-
ton St., Portland, Ore.
PIERCE, MARIE M., 1406 W. 39th
St., Portland, Ore.
PILKINGTON, THOMAS J., Sebas-
topol, California.
PHILLIPS, MABEL F., R. F. D. 43,
Box 18, Salem, Ore.
PLATT, ARTHUR D., 211 East 55th
.St., Portland, Ore. .
PLUMB, H. L., care Forest Service,
Portland, Ore.
PLUMMER, AGNES, 3rd and Madi-
son Sts., Portland, Ore.
PRENTYS, R. P., King-Davis Apts.,
Portland, Ore.
PREVOST, FLORENCE, Highland
Court Apts., Portland, Ore.
PUGH, LAURA E., 4811 34th Ave.,
Portland, Ore.
RAUCH, G. L., 902 Yeon Building,
Portland, Ore.
REDDEN, CECIL V., 314 W. 8th
St., Vancouver, Wash.
REDMAN, FRANK M., 1014 North-
western Bank Building, Portland,
Oregon.
REED, MRS ROSE COURSEN, 308
Eilers Building, Portland, Ore.
**REID, PROF HARRY FIELDING,
Johns Hopkins University, Balti-
more, M. D.
RENFRO, JOE H., 41 Jessup W.
St., Portland, Ore.
RENFRO, MRS. BESSIE M., 41
Jessup W. St., Portland, Ore.
RENSTROM, HENRIK, Beach Rd.
14, Squantum, Mass.
RHODES, EDITH G., 935 E. 26th
St., N., Portland, Ore.
RICE, EDWIN. L., 1191 E. Yamhill
St., Portland, Ore.
RICHARDSON, EDWARD L., 10 S.
LaSalle St., Chicago, 111.
RICHARDSON, JEAN, 131 East 19th
St., Portland, Ore.
RICHMOND, STANLEY C.
RIDDELL, GEO. X., 689 Everett
St., Portland, Ore.
RILEY, FRANK BRANCH, Cham-
ber of Commerce Building, Port-
land, Ore.
RISELING, ROBERT F., 1427 N.
W. Bank Building, Portland, Ore.
ROBERTS, ELLA PRISCILLA, 109
East 48th St., Portland, Ore.
ROBINSON, DR. EARL C., 660 Mor-
gan Building, Portland, Ore.
ROEMER, LOWELL, 4405 East 89th
St., S: E., Portland, Ore.
ROSENKRANS, F. A., 335 East 21st
St., Portland, Ore.
ROSS, RHODA, 1516 East Oak St.,
Portland, Ore.
ROSS, WILLIS W., 272 Stark St.,
Portland, Ore.
RYAN, MILDRED L., Portland, Ore.
SAKRISON, C. H., 356 Fargo St.,
Portland, Ore.
SAMMONS, E. C.. 69 East 18th St.,
Portland, Ore.
SCARPF, GRETCHEN, 429 North-
east 46th St., Portland, Ore.
SCHNEIDER, KATHERINE, 260
Hamilton Ave., Portland, Ore.
SCHNEIDER, MARION, 260 Hamil-
ton Ave., Portland, Ore.
SCHROEDER, LAURA G., 514 Flint
St., Portland, Ore.
SCOTT, ISABELLA J., 593 East 8th
St. N., Portland, Ore.
SEARCY, ROBERT D., San Francis-
co., Calif.
SELF, NORA, Camas, Wash.
SEVERIN, WILLIAM C. E., Box 34,
Route ,1 Milwaukie, Ore.
SEYMOUR, DARWIN CY, First Na-
tional Bank, Portland, Ore.
SHELTON, ALFRED C., 1390 Emer-
ald St., Eugene, Ore.
SHEPARD, F. E., 490 East 33rd
St., Portland, Ore.
SHERMAN, LENA, 1123 N. E. 22nd
St., Portland, Ore.
SHERMAN, MINET E., 774 Everett
St., Portland, Ore.
SHIPLEY, J. W., Underwood, Wash.
*SHOLES, CHAS. H., Box 243, Port-
land, Ore.
SHOLES, MRS. C. H^ Box 243, Port-
land, Ore.
SIEBERTS, CONRAD J., 683 E.
Stark St., Portland, Ore.
SIEBERTS, MRS. CONRAD J., 683
E. Stark St., Portland, Ore.
SILL, J. G., 511 Merchants Trust
Building, Portland, Ore.
SILVER, ELSIE M., 100 Sixth St.,
Portland, Ore.
380
Membership
SMEDLEY, GEORGIAN E., 262 E.
16th St., Portland, Ore.
SMITH, ADRIAN E., 127 East 39th
St., Portland, Ore.
SMITH, MARY GENE, Campbell-
Hill Hotel, Portland, Ore.
SMITH, W. E., 589 East 12th St. N.,
Portland, Ore.
SMITH, KAN, 2908 Fifteenth Ave.,
S., Seattle, Wash.
SMITH, LEOTTA, 842 East Stark
St., Portland, Ore.
SMITH, PROF. WARREN D., 941
E. 19th St., Eugene, Ore.
SNEAD, J. L. S., 572 E. Broadway
Portland, Ore.
SNOKE, ESTHER, 380 Tenth St.,
Portland, Ore.
SPAETH, DR. J. DUNCAN, Prince-
ton, N. J.
STARKWEATHER, H. G., 602 Broad-
way Building, Portland, Ore.
STARR, NELLIE S., 6926 45th Ave
S. E., Portland, Ore.
STEVENTON, JOSEPHINE, 720
Oberlin, St., Portland, Ore.
STONE, DR. W. E., Purdue Unive.
sity, Lafayette, Ind.
STONE, MRS. W. E., 146 North
Grant St., Lafayette, Ind.
STRINGER, A. R., JR., 179 Ban-
croft Ave., Portland, Ore.
STROOP, D. VINCENT, U. S Foi
est Service, Portland, Ore. '
STUDER, GEORGE A., 608 Schuy-
ler St., Portland, Ore.
SULLIVAN, F. F., 305 Madison
Park Apts., Portland, Ore.
TAYLOR, VERA E., 814 Spalding
Building, Portland, Ore
TENNESON, ALICE M.', High
School, Yakima, Wash.
THATCHER, GUY W., 302 Sacra-
mento St., Portland, Ore.
THAXTER, B. A., 391 East 24th
St., Portland, Ore.
THOMAS, E. H., Parkdale, Ore.
THOMAS, EMMA M., 770 21st St
Oakland, Calif.
THORINGTON, DR. J. M., 2031
Chestnut St., Philadelphia, Pa.
THORNE, H. J., 755 East 26th
St., N., Portland, Ore.
TOMPKINS, MARGARET, 285
Couch St., Portland, Ore
TREICHEL, CHESTER H, 624
Idaho Building, Boise, Idaho.
TUCKER, RALPH J., 389^ Six-
teenth St., Portland, Ore.
F. B., 401 Concord
Building, Portland, Ore.
BEBBER, U- 503 Fenton
Building, Portland, Ore.
VAN ZANDT, DEAN, 1408 Four-
teenth Ave., Seattle, Wash.
VENSTRAND, EVA E., 493 East
9th St., N.. Portland, Ore.
VIAL, LOUISE ONA. 241 Prospect
St., Berkeley, Calif.
WALDORF, LOUIS W., 724 East
59th St. N., Portland, Ore.
WALTER, WILLIAM S., 53 North
21st St., Portland, Ore.
WARD, JOHN S., 170 E. 121st
St., New York, N. Y.
WARNER, CHARLES E., The
Portland News, Portland, Ore.
WEBB, ONEITA, 514 Jefferson St.,
Portland, Ore.
WEER, J. H., West Coast Grocery
Co., P. O. Box 1563, Tacoma,
Wash.
WELCH, JENNIE, Welches, Ore.
WENNER, B. F., Bradley Road,
West Dover, Ohio.
WHITE, WILLIAM, Suite 1000, 1211
Chestnut St., Philadelphia, Pa.
WILBURN, VESTA, care Rich-
mond Paper Co., Seattle, Wash.
WILDER, GEORGE W., 226 Four-
teenth St., Portland, Ore.
WILLARD, CLARA, 619 High St.,
Bellingham, Wash.
WILLIAMS, A. BOYD, King-Davis
Apts., Portland, Ore.
WILLIAMS, MRS. A. BOYD, King-
Davis Apts., 'Portland, Ore.
WILLIAMS, GEO. M., 713 F St.,
Centralia, Wash.
WILLIAMS, GERTRUDE, 314 W.
8th St., Vancouver, Wash.
•WILLIAMS, JOHN H., 2671 Fil-
bert St., San Francisco, Calif.
WILSON, CHARLES W., Belle vue,
Idaho.
WILSON, MAUDILEEN, 197 N,
E. 66th St., Portland, Ore.
WILSON, RONALD M., U. S. Geo-
logical Survey, Washington, D. C.
WING, MARY, 1124 Macadam Rd.,
Portland. Ore.
WINN, ETHEL, 415 Yamhill St.,
Portland, Ore.
WISE, DR. T. P., 568 Elizabeth
St., Portland, Ore.
WOLBERS, HARRY L., 577 Kerby
St., Portland, Ore.
WOODWORTH, C. iB.. 214 Spald-
ing Building, Portland, Ore.
WYNN, DR. FRANK B., 421 Hume
Mansur Building, Indianapolis,
Ind.
WALSH, GRAYCE, Portland. Ore.
WALSH, ROBERT P., St. Louis,
Mo.
YORAN, W. C., 912 Lawrence St..
Eugene, Ore.
YOUNG, CRISSIE C., 520 Elizabeth
St., Portland, Ore.
YOUNGKRANTZ, EDITH M.. I'.
S. Forest Service, Walla Walla,
Wash.
ZANDERS, RUTH, M. A. A. C.,
Portland, Ore.
ZEIDLHACK, FELIX S., 349 Har-
rison St., Portland, Ore.
"Life Members
**Honorary Members
BONDS lf!*VjSh INSURANCE
SECURITIES W^Xii' FINANCING
^**w JSSr
O. W. T. MUELLHAUPT & CO.
FINANCIERS, GENERAL INSURANCE
SUITE 407-409 U. S. NATIONAL BANK BUILDING
Phone fBradwav 3838
PORTLAND, OREGON
Jones Mercantile Co.
Wholesale
GROCERS
Our Specialty
Hotel, Restaurant, Ship and
Camp Supplies
305-307 Davis St., PORTLAND, ORE.
FREE
8xio ENLARGEMENT
FOR EVERY fc.oo SPENT IN PRINTING
We guarantee you Better Kodak Finishing
than any in Portland
EXCLUSIVE PEN AND KODAK SHOP
Multnomah Photo Supply Co,
131 BROADWAY
HOUSE OF QUALITY
ALL KINDS OF HIKING AND SPORT
SHOES IN STOCK. IF NOT IN STOCK
WILL MAKE TO YOUR ORDER
149-151 4th
ATTENTION, HIKERS!
SOUTH SIDE MT. HOOD
is the easiest and cheapest of its kind to climb, and more
sport coming down. Competent guides for summit and
glacier trips maintained by Government Camp Hotel.
HOME OF THE HUCKLEBERRY PIE
Daily Auto Stages leave 145 2nd Street, Portland, Oregon, 8 a. m.
Phone E 135 Phone Main 172
L. F. PRIDEMORE, PROPRIETOR
Phone Zig Zag Ranger Station, Oregon
ALFRED F. PARKER
SPECIAL AGENT
NEW ENGLAND MUTUAL
LIFE INSURANCE COMPANY
THE LAST WORD IN LIFE INSURANCE SINCE 1835
330-333 NORTHWESTERN BANK BUILDING
Fraught With Fortune
LIFE'S paths are full of financial — as well as
physical — hardships which can be softened
considerably by frequent stops at the North-
western National's wayside depository.
L
WE EXCEL
We excel in Optical speci-
alties, Mountain Climbers'
Goggles, Kodaks, Films,
Developing and Printing.
Give us a trial on your
next Mountain Pictures and
compare our work with
that which you have had
done elsewhere.
Columbian Optical
Company
F. F. BROWER, Manager
145 SIXTH STREET
PORTLAND, OREGON
Other itores: Seattle. Salt Lake. Denver. Omaha,
Kansas City and Dallas.
Mazamas !
Buy your Flowers
and Plants at
Niklas & Son
Florists
Stores :
403 Morrison Street
Telephone Broadway 2876
and
725 Belmont Street, East Side
Telephone East 1941
BRIGHTEN UP YOUR PROSPECTS
" I wouldn't give much for a man's prospects when he spends
every cent he earns." This was said by a man who rose from
journeyman to employer.
Many people think they can't save anything, so they don't try.
Others try to save a little and find it easier than they had thought.
You don't know what you can do until you try. Test your
ability to save for a few months at the Hartman & Thompson
Bank and you'll fiind you can keep right on.
HARTMAN & THOMPSON, BANKERS
Chamber of Commerce Building Fourth and Stark Streets
BUTTERFIELD BROS.
ESTABLISHED 1880
Jewelers and Opticians, Tools, Materials
and Supplies
Makers of the Mazama Pins and Rings
2nd Floor Mohawk Building, 3rd and Morrison Streets
A reliable photographic supply store devoted
to the needs of the more discriminating am-
ateur photographer. We have what you want
and can tell you all about it.
Let us do your developing and printing or show
you how to do it yourself.
PIKE & O'NEILL CO.
343/2 WASHINGTON STREET, PORTLAND
HOTEL OREGON
BROADWAY AT STARK STREET
PORTLAND
A DELIGHTFUL place of sojourn, situated in the very
heart of the city's activities. A cordial welcome to traveler
and tourist. Moderate rates.
HOME OF THE COUNTRY FAMED
YE OREGON GRILL
ARTHUR H. MEYERS, MANAGER
is surely no greater
nisJom than well to time the
beginnings and onsets of
things." — (Bacon.
A GOOD ROAD TO SUCCESS
IS THROUGH
A PROPER BANK CONNECTION
THE UNITED STATES
NATIONAL BANK
SIXTH AND STARK
CAPITAL AND SURPLUS #2,500,000.00
STAPLES
THE JEWELER
Manufacturing
Jeweler
Watchmaker and
Optician
266 Morrison
Portland, Oregon
Shanahan's
The store with a consistent policy
Dresses
Coats
Men's
Furnishings
General
Merchandise
Outdoor and sport apparel for all
occasions is to be found at
SHANAHAN'S
Third Street
Washington Street
HENRY J. DITTER, Mgr.
MaxM.
Smith
Florist
Choice Cut Flowers
Floral Designs
and Plants
Telephone Main 7215
141^ Sixth Street
Selling Building
Portland, Oregon
After a hike
come to the
Portland Hotel
and enjoy a
good dinner
with your
friends
REGULAR SAVING
AND
SAFE INVESTMENT
must go together, if you wish to provide an in-
come for yourself when your earning days are over.
There is no better or more sane investment than a munici-
pal, government, or corporation bond, when purchased from
a reliable financial institution.
The Bond Department of this bank offers you " securities of
proved worth;" securities that you may purchase on easy
terms.
LADD & TILTON BANK
Washington and Third Oldest in the Northwest
THE HAZELWOODS
OFFER FOR YOUR ENJOYMENT
(BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND
DINNER MENUS
that are palatable and nutritious at prices that are surprisingly low.
We purchase the best food products the market affords
Our chefs are experts and they are ably assisted by a staff of high-class cooks.
Dine at the Hazelwood among attractive surroundings and you will feel
better fitted to combat the daily problems which confront us all.
THE HAZELWOOD
389 Washington Street
BROADWAY HAZELWOOD
127 Broadway
Instant Service in our Coffee Shop, 127 Park
We Operate Busses
on Schedule Between
Portland and Hood River
Portland and St. Helens
Leaving Front and Morrison Streets
Busses always available for Special Parties
at Special Prices.
We are equipped to handle large parties.
Phone Marshall 4381 Main 930
Safety Service Satisfaction
KIRK'S MILITARY SHOP
94 THIRD STREET
PORTLAND, ORE.
A complete line of Articles for Hikers
and Campers. We invite your inspection
and you are not compelled to purchase.
When you want to know about I
Birds, Trees and Flowers and Kodak Supplies in the
GET
Genuine Eastman
Quality
The Handbonk of Western Birds, . #4.00 j
w ArF'?'Balle" 'Photo Phil
Western Bird Guide 1.50 j
Chas. K. Reed our kodak expert, is one of these
Birds of Oregon and ^Washington . .75 j chaps who is never happier than
American Birds , 1.50 j when he is helping other kodak
W. L. Finley enthusiasts get good results. Call on
Western Wild Flowers 2.50 ! him at any time to help you solve
Field Book of American Wild Flowers 2.00 '
F. S. Matbews Your films given the best possible
Flower Guide • • • • • • • • 1-25 | attention.
C. K. Reed
Tree Guide 1.25 j Enlarging our specialty.
J. E. Rogers
We have several shelves devoted to Bird.Flower The kodak Department at Third
and Tree Books. Come in and look them over. Street entrance, main floor.
GILL'S
THE J. K. GILL COMPANY
Booksellers, Stationers, Office Outfitters
THIRD AND ALDER STREETS, PORTLAND, OREGON
RED RIBBON BRAND
THE BEST IN EATS
MASON, EHRMAN & CO.
PORTLAND, EUGENE, MEDFORD, KLAMATH FALLS
AND ASTORIA, OREGON. LEWISTON, IDAHO
MAZAM AS
HERE'S GOOD NEWS!
YOU can supply all your outing needs at MEIER
& FRANK'S. Below we give a partial list of
reliable equipment carried all the time in our
SPORTING GOODS STORE. We have many other
wanted accessories not listed here and can secure for you
on very short notice any further articles desired. Prices are
uniformly low and the quality is always of the most depen-
dable order.
Duxbak Clothing
Will- Wear Clothing
Patrick Mackinaws
Leather Coats, Jackets
i.nd Vests
Whale Back Shirts
Leather, Canvas and
Fox Puttees
Bergman Shoes
Shoe Pacs
Tents Camp Cots
Camp Tables
Camp Reflectors
Folding Cups Camp Stools
Water Bags Camp Stoves
Lunch Kits Camp Axes
Cooking Utensils
Meier & Frank's, Ninth Floor ( Mail Orders Filled.)
The "Ask Mr. Foster" travel information service is at your
disposal — free information given concerning the details of
a trip anywhere to nearby points or remote places.
Pack Sacks
Dunnage Bags
Sleeping Bags
Pneumatic Mattresses
SKIS Snow Shoes
Ski and Snow Shoe Bindings
Ski Poles
Alpenstocks Canteens
Canned Heat Flash Lights
Sweaters Jerseys
First Aid Kits
Pedometers Compasses
Hunting Knives
Pocket Knives Guns
Ammunition
Fishing Tackle
TM& QUALITY" STORE or PORTLAND
tf\. >Torri50i\, Alder 3t3
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