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I. Report on the Expedition by Ejnar Mikkelsen......:...............
The Outward Journey June 20th—August 25th 1909............
The Sledge-expedition to Lambert’s Land September 25th—December
Page
I
IEG RE A OD ee beeen Fr. а es ke Be ee 13
The Sledge-expedition to Danmark’s Fjord:
Miler plane Ame OM EIGEN G А о на 24
The journey from Shannon Island via the Inland-ice to Danmark’s
Pyord., March эга-—Мау With OLD и... 37
The Fyen’s Lake. Journey from May 14th to May 18th 1910. 68
Meteorological observations on the journey on the Inland-ice.... 71
RiemarksutOstherchant = дот ов Core cer Doro 74
Danmarks Bjorn a. 8 nn re ae tendons позе 79
Attempt to reconstruct the last journey of Mylius-Erichsen... 89
The Return-journey from Cape Rigsdagen to Mallemukfjældet
May 25th——dJiuly Эта: 1910. 2.3.8. er gene 106
The Return-journey from Mallemukfjældet to Shannon Island
ЕЯ NON О Ц ВЕД NO EA ne 116
On Shannon Island and Bass Rock from Nov. 25th 1910 to July 19th 1912. 129
II. Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition during Mikkelsen's
stedgesjourneys-hy_Vilhelm JEaub ASE ER ee enter 143
ihespenodetromssep.-2zoth, to Deer ЕЮ, 190. 145
Remarks concerning the current round Shannon Island........... 147
The Sledge journey to the west of Dronning Louise’s Land:
‘Riesplanvand Outi time... cae cigs noes. ae oars cie true 149
kheusiedge#journey: 0 Zen се NO Ве к 154
Extract from Lieutenant Jorgensen’s dairy, chiefly with respect to
the “wrecks or thes Alabama’. ee ее ee 169
The period from 23rd of May until arrival at Aalesund........... 170
III. Notes on the sea-ice along the east coast of Greenland by Ejnar Mik-
ть а, ee Een 185
Notes on the state of the coast-ice from Erik S. Henius Land to
Shanon lslamd sine L910! Ss a ee 187
Notes on the state of the coast-ice during the autumn journey in
1909 from Shannon Island to Lambert’s Land and in 1911 from
Shannon, [slantatozs keri ое ее 188
Observation on the state of ice in the neighbourhood of Shannon
Island and Bass Rock during the years 1909, 1910, 1911, 1912.. 190
The coast water along the north-east coast of Greenland.......... 198
The influence of the different winds on the pack-ice as noticed from
Hes Pee recs peach ce NP Caen Mike, OS. EMS, а 202
Eherpack ice apt rece! tan О еее ео 203
38300
IV. Meteorological observations on the Alabama-Expedition by H. Hansen.. 215
Tab; 1° Observations taken onsboaua Зри 231
Tab. 2. Observations on Shannon Island, sledge voyage to Sker-
fjorden and at Bass Rock from Sept. ist 1909 to July 17th 1912.
Shannon. Па ее he ee SR 237
Sledgetrip from Shannon Island to Skærfjorden ......... 253
SRannonalslandere rn. ea ee eee ee 257
Bass VOC RAA Sea menu ee er И 262
Tab. 3. Observations on sledge journey along the coast from Dan-
mark’s Fjord to Skerfjorden from May 17th to September 15th
MOU SEES ERE ues yet sigh wine Me beats aula vane aa ake ee ee Ce egn 271
Tab. 4a. Observations from Mikkelsen’s sledge expedition on the
Inlandsiee’ an We oie oe cie о ее 281
Tab. 4b. Observations from Laub’s sledge journey on the Inland-ice 289
Tab. 5. Shannon Island — Bass Rock. Monthly Summaries of
Observations from September 1909—July 1912............... 293
Tab. 6. Northeast-Greenland (Danmark’s Havn — Shannon Island
— Bass Rock):
Meany Ade pressure ее ооо eee 294
Mean: Aur Temperature @ „2... 2.0 MR UT Te MCE TERRE 295
PIREBACE
АЛ YHEN the “Danmark Expedition” returned in August 1908, it
was reported that the leader of the Expedition, Mr. L. Myrrus-
ERICHSEN, Lieutenant Horc-HAGEN and the Eskimo JØRGEN BRØNLUND,
had lost their lives on the return voyage to the ship, after the successful
discovery of the Danmark’s Fjord and a complete survey of the north-east
coast of Greenland with its large fjords. The expedition had succeeded
in reaching the locality discovered and partly surveyed by Вовевт
E. Peary in 1892 and 1895, thereby finishing the survey of the Green-
landic coast, and concluding a brilliant chapter in the discovery of Green-
land.
Thus ran the report, brought to the knowledge of the members
of the “Danmark Expedition” by Captain J. P. Косн, a member of
the expedition, who had held north from the headquarters of the ex-
pedition in the spring of 1908, when Mytius-Ericusen and his com-
rades failed to return. Косн reached Lambert's Land and found the
body of JørGEN BRØNLUND at the depot placed there, as well as some
very valuable data concerning the journey of the lost party, consisting
of a map sketch over the territory surveyed, some sketches of the new
discovered land, and at last the private journal of JørGEN BRØNLUND
written in Greenlandic but containing a final entry in Danish, running
— in translation — thus:
“Perished in 79 Fjord after an attempt to return by way of the
“inland-ice in the month of November. I arrived here by waning
“moon and can go no further owing to frostbites on the feet and
“the darkness. The bodies of the two others lie in the middle of
“the fjord in front of the glacier (about 10 miles). Hagen died
“on the 15th of November, and Mylius about 10 (2)! days later.
JORGEN BRONLUND.
As seen from this last entry by JØRGEN BRØNLUND in his diary,
the place of disaster, where Mytius-Ericusen and HøEGH-HAGEN met
death after a brave struggle, is very vague, and Koch had really nothing
1) Meddelelser om Grønland, vol. XLI, pag. 219—220.
IT
to guide him in his further search for the bodies of the perished men,
particularly as it was springtime and all the country hidden deep in
snow, which assuredly would have covered the bodies and made it
nearly impossible to locate them, even if the exact place of disaster
had been known.
Косн therefore returned to the headquarters of the expedition
at Danmark’s Havn, bringing with him the maps, sketches of the country
and the journal of JoRGEN BRØNLUND, and albeit opinions differed as to
the place of disaster when the matter was discussed on board the ship upon
Kocn’s return, no further attempt was made to locate the place as the
season was far advanced and the depots nearly emptied along the coast
from Schnauder’s Island southward.
Referring to JORGEN BRØNLUND's statement as to the locality of
the disaster, which, as stated, is exceedingly vague, namely:
“the bodies of the two others lie in the middle of the fjord in front
of the glacier (about 10 miles)“
there seem to be two places, where the bodies might be found, viz:
1. 10 miles off the front of the big glacier, emptying itself into 79
fjord, and in the middle of this fjord.
The fjord however is 32 miles broad, and according to Косн,
the edge of glacier cannot be determinated within 8 miles"), and
2. in the middle of the westernmost fjord,?) cutting down into Lambert’s
Land, in which case the 10 miles mentioned by JORGEN BRØNLUND
stands for the distance between the depot on Lambert’s Land —
where BRØNLUND perished — and this fjord.
This latter assumption seems the most likely one as a party retur-
ning from such a journey across the inland-ice as Myrıus ERICHSEN
and his companions had been compelled to make, will be most apt to
follow the land when it once is reached for the following reasons:
In darkness it is easier to travel close to land where the undula-
tions in the ice can be seen more clearly than further out.
The ice is a rule better close under a coast than further out, as the
squalls, sweeping out from gullies, etc. blow the snow away from the
coast-ice.
There would probably be many uncovered cracks and fissures on
the glacier so early in the winter, making travelling over it difficult
and dangerous, while close in land only few of these dangers exist.
A starving party returning from the inland-ice would decidedly
") Medd. om Gronland, vol. XLI, pag. 194.
2) LE] 19 9 LE] LE] 29 219.
Ш
follow the coast where possible, аз there always is а possibility for
obtaining game on land, while none at all out on the glacier.
To search for the lost men and their camp off the glacier — as in
the first assumption — must be left entirely out of the question on ac-
count of the impossibility to locate a camp after such vague information
as was given in JORGEN BRONLUND’s entry, and in so difficult a country,
particularly when conditions are such as stated by Косн, viz:
that the edge of the glacier cannot be determinated within about 8
miles. When adding to this the heavy fall of snow during the preceding
fall and winter!, it is evident that all traces of the camp or the bodies
would be obliterated long before Косн reached the place, even if they
had perished there, which seems unlikely.
Then remained the search for the bodies in the middle of the
westernmost fjord on Lambert’s Land (Assumption 2).
Captain Kocu did not attempt to search there, as the information
contained in JORGEN BRONLUND’s journal was so fragmentary as to
make it intelligible, and it was not till later that the theory was
brought forth that the bodies should be looked for in the oftnamed
fjord on Lambert’s Land.
The possibilities for finding the bodies there were however very
slight in the spring of the year, when everything was covered by snow,
and to search this locality was however — as already stated — unprac-
ticable on account of the lateness of the season and the lacking food
facilities along the coast.
When the Danmark Expedition returned home with its splendid
results, it was therefore still an open question where My tius-ERICHSEN
and Horc-Hacen had met their death after the most heroic struggle
on record, and where their journals might be found. This fact gave
rise to the thought of organizing an expedition with the main purpose
to investigate this matter more closely than it had been possible for the
members of the Danmark Expedition, albeit the possibilities for success
were slight, considering that two summers thaw and one winters frost
might have — and most likely would have — obliterated all traces
of the missing men, before an expedition could reach this place.
There was however a possibility that additional information could
be found in Danmark’s Fjord where — according to JØRGEN BRONLUND’S
journal — the party had spent the summer preceding the disaster and
where also — in accordance with the same source — a depot had been
established at Cape Kronborg?. It would likely be possible to find the
journals of the missing men as well as their collections at this place,
") Medd. om Grønland, vol. XLI, pag. 193.
2 212%
) LE] LE] 2? LE] 29 22
IV
as the material were too valuable to be taken along on the dangerous
cross-country voyage in the worst season for travelling on the inland-ice.
I was just then going to undertake some other exploring project
and passed England on my way to this field, when — in consequence
of aconversation I had with a prominent publisher and newspaper man
upon the subject of the possibility of finding the records of Mytius-
ERICHSEN — it occurred to me, that there ought to be sent an expedition
to Greenland in order to find the bodies of the perished men, their re-
cords and possibly some other material left behind, when they began
the disastrous journey to regain their winterquarter.
An expedition as this should however be a national enterprise,
particularly considering what other nations had done to trace their lost
explorers, and I gave up my projected trip, returned to Denmark and
placed the matter before the Committee of the Danmark Expedition,
consisting of Messrs. Captain G. Е. Horm, Captain С. С. Amprup, Consul
General У. Grückstapr and Consul Erik 5. HENIUS, at the same time
placing myself at disposal for the projected expedition.
These four gentlemen saw my point of view and kindly agreed to
form a committee to further the matter, upon which I worked out a
plan for the projected expedition. It was sanctioned by the members
of the Committee, and ran thus:
"In order to reach the above named object (to trace the lost men and
their records) the expedition will leave Copenhagen in the beginning
of June 1909 onboard a small motor-vessel of about 45 tons burden,
carrying a crew of 6 men besides myself.
The equipment shall consist of full provisions, etc. for the whole
crew for 16 months, besides reserve provisions for one year, and about
45 dogs.
As the main purpose is to find the journals and observation material,
which Myrıus-ErıcHsen and HOEG-HAGEN most likely — accordingly to
what is known — have left at Cape Kronborg or Cape Holbæk, we must
endeavour to come so far north as possible with the ship in order to place
a large depot of provisions at the northermost point reached by the
vessel, whereafter this returns so far south, that it can be considered
almost certain, that the vessel may be able to leave Greenland in the
following summer.
As soon as the ice permits in the fall, the depot will be advanced
further north to Lambert’s Land and left at the place, where I propose
to ascend the inland-ice in the spring.
After this is done, the expedition will return to the winterquarter
of the vessel, and during the winter everything will be made ready
to the spring journey, and surveying, etc. will be carried on, trending
to supplement the results reached by the Danmark Expedition.
V
In the beginning of the spring 1910, as soon as the weather permits
5 men will leave the winter harbour and endeavour to reach the depot
at Lambert’s Land as soon as possible.
From there the course will be laid across the inland-ice to Danmarks
Fjord, and after the broken up area of the inland-ice is passed, 3 men
alone, with 100 days’ provision, will continue, while the two others
return to the ship.
After reaching the Danmark’s Fjord, the Expedition will search the
west coast thereof so closely as possible.
If the records should not be found at Cape Holbæk or Cape Kron-
borg, the return journey will take place along the outer coast of Green-
land, around Nordostrundingen and down to Lambert’s Land, where
a small depot is to be found. The return journey can be facilitated
with help from the depots already placed by the Danmark Expedition.
The coast will be closely searched, and all depots will be opened and
searched for possible records.
The distance from Lamberts Land to Cape Kronborg is about
200 miles, and whith a low calculated average rate of 10 miles per. day
only 20 days are needed for this part of the trip.
In case the records are found at Cape Holbek or Cape Kronborg,
the future plans for the expedition will depend on the condition of men
and dogs at that time.
If everything goes well, and if we have sufficient provisions left,
a journey westward into the Peary Channel can be contemplated, in
order to investigate whether this Channel goes through the whole
country or not, but sufficient care is to be taken, that the main results
of the Expedition are not again exposed to loss.
With light sledges — as all the material not to be used, as well as the
provision for the return voyage is to be left at Cape Rigsdagen — a com-
paratively great distance can be covered in short time, and when the
object is attained, or the provision set aside for this purpose is used,
the expedition will return to the winter quarter, following the route
which offers the best possibilities for a safe and speedy return.
The men left onboard will in the meantime make such observations,
or sledgetrips which can be made or safely undertaken with the material
at disposal.
When the sledge expedition from Danmark’s Fjord returns, the first
opportunity for getting out of the ice will be used, and the whole expe-
dition ought to be in Denmark by the fall of 1910”.
VI
To this plan the Committee added their remarks, the principal
ones were as to the safety of the members while on the different sledge
expeditions.
Unavoidable circumstances, viz: the complete loss of the consign-
ment of dogs which Inspector DAUGAARD-JENSEN had taken such great
pains to pick out for us on the west-coast of Greenland, but unfor-
tunately contracted some kind of disease and died or had to be killed
shortly after we received the batch, compelled us to change our plan,
as it became necessary to touch at Angmagsalik to obtain other dogs.
This delay caused, that we only reached the north-east coast of
Greenland at so late a date, and in so southerly a latitude, that any
attempt to push northward with a vessel fitted with a comparatively
small motor-power, was deemed altogether too risky, and we therefore
had to abandon the plan of laying out a depot at a high latitude, and
consequently also the autum journey to advance this depot.
The consequence of these alterations was, that instead of laying
out a depot on an island off Duc d’Orlean’s Land in lat. п. 78° — on which
we had figured — we were compelled to winter with all our outfit at
Shannon Island in lat. n. 75° 18’, about 160 miles further south and as
it then was out of the question to advance a depot to Lambert’s Land,
we made instead a sledge journey to this locality in the fall of the year
to investigate the place of the final disaster, before the heavy fall of snow
during the winter should have obliterated all traces of the dead men.
An additional consequence of the above mentioned delay was,
that we had to begin our sledge expedition to Danmark’s Fjord from a
much lower latitude than reckoned upon and had to carry all our pro-
visions with us, instead of having the valuable support of a depot laid
out in the fall.
The more detailed plan, and that which eventually was executed
will be found in the following report on the expedition.
To get sufficient funds to carrying out the expedition was then
broached and with the help of the Committee, particularly Mr. У. GLuck-
STADT, I succeeded in getting the funds, but not before the Governement,
on the Committee’s recommendation, had voted a grant of Kr. 25,000. —
brought before the Parliament by the then prime minister, Mr. J. С.
CHRISTENSEN, who showed great interest in the undertaking. — The
money was granted on the understanding, that an equal amount should
be found through private means, and by the kind offices of the Committee,
we succeeded in getting this amount so early in the year, that I could
go to Norway, where the yacht “Alabama” of 50 tons burden was pur-
chased and sailed to Copenhagen for refitting.
A motor of “Dan” manufacture was placed in the vessel, and
proved to be wholly reliable during the severe test it often was exposed
Vit
to, and after a sheeting of 2 inches oak had been placed all around the
vessel, which was further strengthened by crossbeams, etc., the vessel was
ready to receive the cargo of provisions and outfit, all in so good time
that we could leave by the settled date.
The vessel was equipped with everything needed for ice navigation,
the greater part of which material was placed at my disposal by the Com-
mittee of the Danmark Expedition and some from the Royal Dockyard,
Copenhagen.
The provisions were made for the expedition by the conserves
factory “Danica’’, Messrs. CORNELIUS STAU & A. BEAUVAIS, who took
great personal care and interest in the manufacturing and packing of
the goods which all proved to be of the best quality.
Butter, etc. was furnished by the firm of PnıLıp W. HEYMANN and
also proved satisfactory in every respect.
Great interest and kindness was shown the expedition by different
manufacturers of goods, who gave their manufacture free of charge,
and to these I tender my sincreest thanks — principally to Mr. B
Dessau from Tuborg Fabrikker, and Mr. Hansen from Svendborg
Bryghus, both of these gentlemen gave us some nourishing beer,
Director Mr. Simon OLESEN furnished us with blankets and woolen apparel,
Mr. С. CommicHau of Silkeborg with 6 suits for underwear to each man,
and Mr. V. PETERSEN, Christianshavns Apotek, with drugs.
Different Government Departments also gave us their support,
such as Meteorological Institute, from which we received as loan some
meteorological instruments, but special mention must be made of Cap-
tain T. У. GARDE, В. №., then director of the Navy Department, for
the kindness and interest he showed us as long as the Expedition was
in touch with civilization, not least by letting petty officer, engineer
Iver P. IVERSEN, join the Expedition on Iceland, when the engineer
brought with us from Copenhagen fell ill.
Furthermore thanks are due to Commander Вт.осн H. M.S. ‘‘Hekla’,
and Commander BROCKMEYER, Н. М. $. “Islands Falk”, for all kind
assistance rendered us, and to Mr. C. RYBERG, then Director of the
Royal Greenland Trading Co. and Director, Mr. WEscHE.
In Greenland, at Angmagsalik, Mr. JoHAN PETERSEN, then gover-
nor there, rendered us some very valuable assistance in securing dogs,
which would have been impossible without his help.
The members of the expedition consisted of 6 man besides myself
namely:
VILHELM LauB, Lieutenant in the Navy,
CHRISTIAN H. JØRGENSEN, Lieutenant in the Army,
Hans OLsen, Mate,
VIII
GEorG PAULSEN, Mate,
CARL UNGER, Carpenter, and
H. AAGAARD, Engineer, who however had to leave the Expedition
on Iceland, where
Iver P. Iversen, Engineer, voluntered to leave “Islands Falk”
and join the expedition, with the full consent of his captain, Mr. Ввоск-
MEYER and the Navy department.
These men were all unexperienced in arctic life, but they showed
great zeal, interest and daring, and without their plucky courage under
adverse circumstances, it would not have been possible to carry the ex-
pedition through.
But before turning to the following report, let me tender my thanks
and feelings of gratitude to the four members of the Committee, Cap-
tains G. Е. Horm and С. С. AmMprup, Consul General У. GLUCKSTADT
and Consul Erik 5. Henius, for the encouragement they gave me in
moments of stress, for their interest in the course of the expedition
and for all kind and valuable assistance, rendered as well before as after
the return of the expedition, without which it would have been impos-
sible to undertake the task.
EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
LII.
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The Outward Journey.
June 20th—August 25th 1909.
Plate IV.
HE expedition left Copenhagen on June 20th 1909 onboard the small
motor-sloop the “Alabama”. In order to save fuel we only used
our sails, so we did not make quick progress, but nevertheless we passed
Skagen on June 22nd at 4 p.m.
Contrary winds, calms and later on a heavy northern gale delayed
our passage across the Northsea and caused us to be set so much to
_ the southward that — in order to avoid too close quarters to the Shet-
land Islands — we had to jibe and run for Wick, where we anchored on
June 30th.
The weather abated, and the following day we left Wick and went
through Pentland Firth. A brisk and favorable easterly wind sprang
up and carried us so fast that we arrived in the roadstead of Thorshavn
at 9,30 a.m. July 3rd.
As we needed good and plentiful dog-feeding, we proceeded to Kolle-
fjord whaling-station, hoping to get so much whalemeat as we could
conveniently carry. The owner, Captain Krobcke, was very kind and
presented us with 500 kilo dried whalemeat, while we ourselves cut
out and hung up to dry another 1500 kilo. This being done we returned
to Thorshavn, where we found the Royal Greenland Trading Co. steamer
“Hans Egede” anchored on the roadstead. This steamer was to bring
our dogs, and I went onboard at once to meet the captain and see the
animals.
The dogs were in a frightful state, and of the fifty, which had been
taken onboard, only twenty-three remained, the remainder having died
on the voyage.
Inspector DAUGAARD-JENSEN had bought the animals in the nor-
thernmost settlement on the west coast of Greenland, and he had been
very careful in selecting the dogs, so that when originally shipped on
“Hans Egede” those fifty dogs were absolutely the best to be had. In
1*
4 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
particular he had been careful to avoid buying dogs in places, where there
was the slightest possibility of infection, and so it may be taken for
granted that the dogs when brought onboard had not been suffering
from any kind of infectious disease. |
However, on board the ship, the dogs were shut up in the spare-
bunkers, and a gale coming on the hatch was battened down. The animals
remained in this closed-up room for about three days, or as long as the
gale lasted, and during the whole of this period they got no air at all
except that which passed through a lower bunker, still full of coals and
fumes. When the hatchcovers were removed, seventeen of the dogs
were discovered dead, most assuredly from being forced to inhale the
poisonous air. In the afternoon six more expired and later on two.
However, the harm being done there was nothing to do but to try
and save the rest, so the dogs were taken onboard the “Alabama” and
treated with the utmost care. However, they were not to be tempted
to eat at once, and the only thing which they desired was water and
rest. Later on they began to eat, and they had apparently improved
a little, before the day had passed.
We telegraphed at once to the committee stating our case, and in
the meantime, before we could get our final orders, several of the dogs
had died. Happily we were able to obtain the opinion of an expert,
the Danish cruiser, Н. M.S. “Неда”, Commander Втосн, having arrived
in Thorshavn, and the ship’s surgeon, Mr. ZACHARIAE, kindly consented
to dissect the animals. In two cases he found inflammation of the lungs
and in two other cases a very extensive bloodpoisoning.
On July 11th we received our final instructions from the committee;
we were ordered to disinfect the ship according to the directions of the
surgeon on the Н. M.S. ‘‘Hekla” and then proceed to Angmagsalik,
where we should buy so many dogs as were absolutely necessary.
The dogs however were in such a plight that Mr. ZACHARIAE did
not dare to give us a clean bill of health, and after we had talked the
matter over with Commander Втосн, himself an old Greenland traveller,
we decided to shoot all the dogs, to disinfect the ship entirely and then
depart for Angmagsalik.
On July 13th we left the Faroe Islands for Iceland where we were
to touch Reykjavik on our way to Angmagsalik. Calms and contrary
winds delayed us so much that we did not reach the Vestmann Islands till
July 19th. In this place we were so lucky as to meet H. М. 5. “Islands
Falk”, the commander of which, Commander BROCKMEYER, with his
officers rendered us several valuable services. They began their kind
offices by offering to tow the “Alabama” to Reykjavik, and as
the weather was quite calm, the offer was accepted with the greatest
pleasure.
While in Reykjavik the engineer AAGAARD was found to be ill,
but time being very short we decided to take him as far as Angmag-
Report on the expedition. D
salik and only discharge him on our return to Iceland, if at that time
he had not yet recovered. Meanwhile Commander BROCKMEYER kindly
promised to communicate with the Navy Department so as to get per-
mission to substitute one of his men in the place of AAGAARD, if it
turned out to be necessary to let him go.
We left Reykjavik, July 22nd at noon, and made a very quick passage
to the edge of the ice, which we sighted on July 25th 2 p.m. (65°29'5
N. Lat. and 33°33’ W. Long). Still under sail we worked our way west-
wards against a headwind until the following day, when at 6a.m. the
wind died down, and we had to rely entirely on the motor. The fog —
the only real hindrance which we met — became so dense that at 10 a.m.
we were compelled to make fast to an ice-floe, and it was not till 7 p.m.
that we could continue in slack ice, passing openings of more than two
miles in extent.
In spite of the fogbanks, which now and again enveloped the ship,
we were able to continue till 11,45 р. т. when — on account of the fog —
it became quite impossible to proceed before 5a.m. on the following
day, July 27th.
We reached the open landwater at 8,50 а. т., having thus crossed
the icebelt in little more than 28 hours and without any hindrance
from the ice, which consisted of quite small floes and very many icebergs,
separated from each other by large water-lanes. Our only stoppages
were such as were made necessary by fogs.
The crossing of the Angmagsalik Fjord proved more difficult than
expected, as the fog prevented us from getting a clear view, while ice
and violent currents made it impossible to keep our course. We reached
the settlement at 11,30 p.m., having long been in touch with land by
means of kayakmen, whom we had met and sent on to the governor,
Mr. JOHAN PETERSEN, with a request to send an umiak to tow us in,
our motor having refused to work.
Mr. PETERSEN and his assistant, my old comrade Mr. SOREN NIEL-
SEN, were both very kind and offered us as much help as possible in the
matter of dogs. They even gave us their own dogs and induced natives
who might otherwise not have been willing to part with their dogs to
sell them to us, and their help was so valuable that two days after our
arrival, we had secured forty-seven dogs and more than sufficient seal-
meat to last us as far as Iceland. All were kind in Angmagsalik, the
native minister, Mr. Rosine and his wife no less than the Danes, and
it was with regret that we hove our anchor home and proceeded on our
voyage, now provided with means to carry it out. We left Angmag-
salik in splendid weather at 6 a.m., July 30th.
The ice had been very good on our journey towards land, but it
was still better going out, and we had no trouble whatsoever in passing
the belt of ice, which hedged in the land. At 10 p.m. the last of the ice
was left behind, and we set sail for Patrick’s Fjord, which we reached
6 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
on Aug. 4th at 11 a.m. after a rather unpleasant voyage with continual
rain and headwinds.
AAGAARD’S health had become still worse during this short trip,
and it seemed too risky to take him any further, as a physician on Pa-
trick’s Fjord had declared that in his opinion it would be impossible
for AAGAARD to stand the strain of the voyage, which we were going
to undertake. Consequently a telegram was dispatched to Commander
BROCKMEYER, requesting him to send a substitute for AAGAARD, and
the reply came at once — assistant engineer Iver P. IVERSEN was willing,
and Н. М. 5. “Islands Falk” would come to us with the utmost speed
possible.
In the meantime we were occupied in trying to get everything
into shape for the long journey, and particularly to get enough whale-
meat for our forty-seven dogs. The Talknafjord whaling-station was
not far away, and its manager gave us all the meat we wanted.
Н. M.S. “Islands Falk” arrived on August 6th at 2 p.m., and the
exchange of engineers was made, before we left Patrick’s Fjord, once
more towed by the government steamer, the commander of which ren-
dered us such valuable and manifold services that it is impossible to
thank him adequately for it all. We were towed till the following day
at noon, when we had reached 66°44’5 N. Lat. and 22°44’ W. Long. Here
we parted company with H. M.S. “Islands Falk”, which went back
towards Iceland with colours flying and saluting with her guns.
The voyage from here to the place where we entered the ice was
of no interest whatsoever. It was long and tedious owing to alternate
headwinds and calms, which compelled us to use the motor almost
every day, which test the splendid 16 H. P. Dan-Motor stood very
well, going continually for six days without stopping once. Now and
then we saw the ice, but we kept away to the eastward, whenever we
came too close to it, until we finally entered the packice on August 17th,
at 7a.m. on 75°13’ N. Lat. and 10°43’ W. Long. A gale was blowing, and
the surf was very strong on the outer edge of the ice, but we thought
it advisable to run the risk and headed in between the floes, hoping to
be able to reach a large stretch of open water, which we could see beyond
the densely packed outer edge.
But the attempt failed, and we had not proceeded more than a
few hundred metres, before the swell and the wind stopped the “Ala-
bama’’, over which we then lost control. Immense masses of ice came
down from the north and surrounded the ship so fast that in the course
of three hours we could see no water out to sea. .
These masses of ice quelled the swell to some extent, but the danger
of losing the vessel was still very great. We tried to fend her off from
the floes, using all the means at our disposal, but in vain; the large ice-
foot projecting from the surrounding floes came underneath the bottom
Report on the expedition. 7
of the “Alabama”? and rammed her hard when lifted and sunk by
the swell or surf, mostly between three and four feet. However, the
“Alabama” withstood the severe strain, and when once more released
from the grip of the ice on Aug. 18th 5 p.m. she had apparently suffered
no other injury than a split rudder-stem.
The ice-floes surrounding the ship were all broken to pieces by the
heavy swell of the last twenty-four hours, and it was difficult to extricate
the ship. We succeeded however and reached a very large open pool
beyond the edge of the packice (about 74°47’ М. Lat. and 13°40’ W. Long.).
We had been beset for thirty-two hours in all and had drifted about
48 miles to the WSW (true), which gives an hourly rate of about
1,5 miles in a direction almost perpendicular on the wind.
Having penetrated this dense outer edge of the packice we got
splendid conditions and headed towards N W (true), slightly or not
at all hindered by the ice, which still consisted of very small floes, sepa-
rated from each other by broad water-lanes.
The hard work and severe strain had sapped our strength, and the
crew being too small to work the ship by turns, we were compelled to
make fast to a floe and get some rest. We went below at 10 p.m. but
were called again at 1,30 a.m., when а small sealing sloop, the motorship
“Herkules”, Captain OLSEN from Aalesund, came and made fast along-
side our own vessel. The captain reported open water as far towards
land as he had been, and we remained together long enough for us to
use this last chance of sending letters home. We left each other at
4,30 a.m. (Aug. 19th), after which we headed a general NW course, still
through very slack ice.
Shortly after we had left the “Herkules”, we saw the high moun-
tains on Pendulum Island at a distance of almost 70 miles.
At 11 a.m. (about 75°07’ N. Lat. and 15°0’ W. Long) we saw from the
crow’s nest the first extensive floes stretching away to the west as far
as the horizon, and we followed the edge of this imposing floe on a straight
course for 18 miles, when it trended to the north.
We saw our first and only bear in the packice on this floe, but it
escaped by taking to the water and swimming so fast that we could
not follow it, the vessel going full speed with the motor. The water
was filled with an immense amount of large seals, which continually
popped their heads out of the water; I once counted more than twenty
at the same time.
The ice was still slack, and at 5 p.m. we entered a lake so large that
we could not see any considerable amount of ice from the crow’s nest,
and it was not till August 20th at 6a.m. that we once more met ice,
which compelled us to work carefully.
Shortly afterwards the open water-lane came to an end, and the
ice was densely packed towards the north, where Koldewey Island was
8 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
plainly visible. We were on 75°35’ М. Lat. and 17°05’ W. Long. and had to
keep away to the east, hoping to reach the open water which was plainly
indicated on the black sky. But a gale sprang up from N E, the ice
closed down оп us, and the young ice, which was 6 mm thick, prevented
our manoeuvring freely. This young ice had been forming for some
days and had hindered us very much, as the motor-power of the ship
was too small to force the vessel through newly formed ice even less
than 1%, cm thick.
It very soon became impossible to advance against the oncoming
gale, the young ice and the densely packed floes, so we were compelled
to make fast to an ice-floe after having failed to retrace our steps towards
Shannon Island, where open water was visible. The whole night between
Aug. 20th and 21st was spent in moving about in the continually dimi-
nishing waterpond, and in the morning, August 215, we were beset
for good, as two floes crashed together just ahead of us. We were forced
to make fast in asmall bight forming in one of the ice-floes, where we soon
became beset by smaller floes drifting down upon us. A gale now was
blowing from N E, and all day long we drifted to the south with fair
speed (1% mile an hour), but we were not exposed to serious pressures.
On August 22nd 6a.m. the floe to which we had made fast broke
in two, and we were exposed to very severe pressure, which however
did us no harm. Half an hour later the motion in the ice began afresh,
and a large piece of ice was forced underneath the vessel, causing her to
list to starboard. Another piece of ice, about 3—6 metres broad, was
raised on end and pushed down under our stern, jamming the rudder
hard to starboard and snapping the tiller. The slightest additional
motion would have broken off the rudder and damaged our stern besides
breaking our propeller, but fortunately the pressure stopped at this critical
moment leaving the ship wedged into the ice. However, it was impos-
sible to do anything whatsoever to extricate ourselves, as the ship was
beset fore as well as aft (Fig. 1).
The belt of ice which separated us from the open water of Shannon
Island was only a mile broad, and this made our risk all the greater, as
we were drifting towards the south along the line of grounded icebergs,
which often set the surrounding ice-floes in motion. А slackening in
the ice of short duration rightened the vessel, but otherwise it made
no change at all in our position, as the pieces of ice under our stern
remained wedged down as hard as ever and could not be moved in
spite of all our efforts. |
The ice showed signs of slackening in the early morning of August 23rd,
and everything was ready to go ahead at the first opportunity. It came,
and the heavy pressure-ridge astern disappeared in less than five minutes,
leaving the ship in comparatively open water. The weather had calmed
down, and we could go ahead, but the ice was still packed close, and we
Mepp. om GRØNL. LII.
Fig. 1. Alabama beset in the pack-ice. 2?/з 1909,
Report on the expedition. 9
had only advanced a few hundred metres, when once more we were
obliged to tie up to a floe. The ship was again exposed to a frightful
strain and was lifted out of the water, however without suffering any
injuries, but later on, at 6,30 а. т., the ship was bodily lifted 14% meter
out of the water and listed so much to port that the keel became visible.
In this position she remained for about 10 minutes, before she slid back
into the water with the propeller-shaft bent, the rudder sprained and
probably the injury which later on made her a wreck.
Everything had been prepared to leave the ship at short notice,
and the sledges were standing ready on the ice; our kerosene had been
deposited on a high hummock, and provisions and clothing were stowed
on deck, so that we could have left the ship in less than 10 minutes with
everything to support ourselves through a whole winter in the packice.
This was the last real danger to which the “Alabama” was exposed,
but she had to put up with numerous smaller onsets, before she was
finally relieved on Aug. 24th 11 a.m. when IVERSEN, assisted by UNGER,
had got the shalt straightened and the motor in working order — а
truly splendid piece of work. We had been beset in the ice for four
days in all, and during this period we had drifted down abreast of Bass
Rock thus covering a distance of 60 miles, with an average of 0,6 mile
an hour.
After three hours of hard work we got the ship into open water,
a broad channel going almost all the way to Shannon Island. However
we were stopped once more just south of the island and had a last and
rather exciting case of manoeuvring through the ice, but owing to the
fact that there was no great force behind the small surrounding ice-floes
we ventured to put the ship into a nip and allowed the ice to crush about
us, thus using the usual slackening following immediately upon a crush
to advance a few metres, and at last, on August 25th at 3 a. m., we reached
Cape Philip Broke and anchored in a small cove, just north of the
cape.
The land surrounding-the cove, in which we anchored, was very
low, except at the southerly point where a steep basalt coast rose straight
from the water’s edge. On the low, muddy beach, now frozen but very
soft during the summer, we saw numerous tracks of musk-ox and
found the horns of a reindeer. The wading birds had not yet left the
country in spite of the fact that all water pools were frozen over, and
the new breed of eiderducks were not even able to fly.
The waters to the north of Cape Philip Broke are fraught with
great dangers for ships trying to anchor there, and we found numerous
outlying rocks, which were only visible from the crow’s nest. Seaweed
however grows on the rocks and may serve as a warning if noticed in
time.
After a short stay we proceeded along the coast to the north, passing
10 Esnar MIKKELSEN.
numerous icebergs grounded on outlying shoals, but we met no hind-
rance whatsoever save the one caused by the young ice, which during
the calm and cold weather of the last two days had obtained a thickness
of 21/, cm ог more.
Cape Sussi was passed in a narrow streak of landwater which dis-
appeared 4 miles to the north of Shannon Island, and we were forced
to return on account of impassable ice, in which large flakes of young
ice played a prominent part. The current was also a great hindrance,
as it ran with a speed of 2 miles an hour and brought about great di-
sturbances in the ice.
About 1 mile to the west of Cape Sussi we found a small, rocky
point projecting into the water in a S W direction forming a snug, but
very small sheltered harbour, where we anchored to await more favorable
conditions. As yet we only considered it a temporary refuge, and no
one thought that this cove should be our winterquarters.
The state of the ice was reconnoitred from the highest point on
Shannon Island, a mountain 305 metres in height just behind the cove,
and the ice was visible almost all the way to Koldewey Island. We noticed
that the ice north of Shannon Island appeared unbroken and that no
water was visible between it and the packice; also, that further to the
north, at a distance of about 15—20 miles, the ice was slack, and there
were very large lakes between the floes about the southern point of
Koldewey Island, but apparently no way to reach them.
The strait to the west of Shannon Island was open, but a line of
grounded icebergs across its northernmost end stemmed the stream of
packice, thus packing the floes just north of it very close.
Even a fresh southwesterly wind, which always used to slacken the
packice, made no perceptible change, and the last few days being calm,
clear and cold the new ice grew in thickness and extent and became
quite impassable for a vessel with the small motor-power of the “Ala-
Бата”.
We therefore decided to winter in the cove where we had anchored
on Aug. 25th, and on August 27th the “Alabama” was moored as close to
land as we dared, but nevertheless barely out of the reach of the floating
ice (Fig. 2). No change took place in the state of the ice during the coming
weeks, so nothing was lost by going into winterquarters so early.
We began at once to unship the stores, fuel, ammunition etc. which
were all stowed on a low rocky point, and before long everybody had
settled down to the ordinary winter routine, making or arranging sled-
ging outfits, and we began to take regular metereological observations,
which were carried on without interruptions until July 31. 1910, when
the expedition left its winterquarters.
Two men had to spend the greater part of the day in tending and
especially preparing food for the dogs, as the hunting had given no
results whatsoever — we only saw very few seals and shot one. Being
Mepp. om GRØNL. LII.
Fig. 2, Alabama in winter-harbour.
г
eu 2;
Fo 2
Fig. 4. Sledge on wheels in the level valley on the northern end of Shannon Island.
Mepp. om Gront. LII.
Fig. 5. The probable elevated ocean-bed on the northern end of Shannon Island.
Report on the expedition. 13
prepared for this we had brought 3000 kilo pork-oflal and 3000 kilo corn-
meal, which mixed together and cooked with water proved a very good
dogfeed. We gave each of the dogs И kilo pork-offal and 14 kilo corn-
meal prepared as a sort of mash, which proved healthy and strengthening;
the dogs soon learned to eat it with relish, and even liked it better
than the occasional feed of meat.
The only objeetion to this kind of dogfeed is that it is rather expen-
sive, as It requires considerable heat to cook such a large portion (25 kilo
besides water), and we used two litres of kerosene for each cooking.
Constant storms prevented the permanent closing up of the open
water, and travelling was impossible, as we could neither move about
with boat nor sledge. It was not till Sept. 16th that we could think of
going by sledge to the southern point of Shannon Island, and even
then we had to be ferried across the open water between the ship and
the old floes filling Frozen Bay, over which JoRGENSEN, IVERSEN and
I hauled a sledge with five-days’ provisions.
The object of this small excursion was to reach the south-eastern
peninsula of Shannon Island, where we wanted to look for game and
also to examine the depot of the Ziegler-Expedition. It took us twelve
hours of hard work to drag the sledge over the rough ice of Frozen Bay
and reach the low land, where we camped.
We were surprised to find quite a plain stretching all the way across
the peninsula, bordered on each side by steep basalt cliffs, 75—100 metres
in height. Some small basalt hills — likewise quite steep — rose out
of the plain, which was otherwise quite smooth, and only in its southern
part was intersected by watercourses. This plain gave a strong impression
of being an elevated ocean-bed. Wherever we went, we noticed large
trunks or pieces of driftwood in the most extraordinary places, far in-
land and from 11/,—8 metres above the highest highwater-mark.
On the eastern coast of Freeden Bay we found some very marked
benches, the lower one about 3 metres above highwater-mark, the second
one almost 10 metres, while still 7 metres up the beach a third one could
be traced. The two lower benches had perfectly sharp edges, were
flat and covered with coarse gravel. We walked on the middle bench,
that is almost 10 metres above highwater-mark, and to our surprise
we found a very large amount of driftwood, ranging from large trunks
to small pieces. It is impossible to imagine that human beings can have
dragged this large amount of wood to the elevated position in which it
was found, and just as impossible to think that the water with its present
relative position to this middle bench could ever rise as high as this
and thus float wood on to it.
Even assuming the ocean to be perfectly open, thus allowing the
full sweep of the waves, they could never reach this middle bench, as
the benches are on the leeward side of the land, where there could be
no question of waves of any importance.
12 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
Large trunks were seen in other places far removed from the coast,
in one case 1% mile inland and about 6—10 metres above highwater-
mark and at the bottom of the partly sheltered Frozen Bay.
The above-mentioned flat and low valley, which gives the impres-
sion of being an elevated ocean-bed, extends in a longitudinal direction
across Shannon Island, separating the high parts on the east side of the
island from the
high part on the
western side,
thus making a
sharp division
between these
two bodies of
land.
The valley ex-
tends as shown
on the drawing
Frozen B. (Fig. 3), where
the marked
places indicate
the apparently
raised ocean-
bed. The mark
x indicates the
place, where the
above-menti-.
oned driftwood
was found far
С. Susst
С Parch
Dez е^
С. David Gray ce?
G Philip Broke
(Bere EEE eee ey
c: 0 miles inland, and
=== apparently elevated ocean-beds . = the coast
with the raised
benches.
Fig. 3. The valley was
covered with an
abundance of grass and mosses, but otherwise marshy, so much so that the
footprints of the musk-ox were about 30cm deep. These footprints
were exceedingly abundant, and it seemed incredible that the animals
should not have been here last summer, as the edges of the holes were
quite sharp and apparently untouched by the flow of water, which
would have washed down the edges and rounded them off, if they
had been there during the spring. However we looked in vain for places
where the muskoxen had gnawed off the tops of the grasses to any extent.
Among other interesting things in this southerly valley we saw
a place which must have been an ancient eskimo camping-site. Scattered
over the ground we found four craniums of bears and six of musk-oxen;
Report on the expedition. 13
the craniums were not very old, but Eskimos must assuredly have killed
the animals, as the canine teeth in the bear-craniums were missing.
Further we found a curious formation of coal, projecting about
30cm from the ground and with a diameter of about 60cm. The
coal was rather hard, and its breaks were in flakes and shining. The
frozen soil, however, prevented our further investigating this coal-
seam, which came so close to the surface.
The depot on Cape Philip Broke was found in comparatively good
order.
On Sept. 19th at 11 p.m. we got back to the ship after having walked
all the way from Cape Philip Broke to the winterquarters at one stretch,
save for a two hours’ rest. The young ice surrounding the ship was
on that day sufficiently strong to carry the weight of a man, though it
was still too thin to allow a loaded sledge to pass.
The preparations for the sledge-trip to Lambert’s Land were carried
on with great energy, and soon everything was ready — some days
before it was thought prudent to start on the thin ice, which should be
passed, before the old packice and safe ice north of Shannon Island
could be reached.
The Sledge-expedition to Lambert’s Land.
September 25th—December 17th 1909.
Plate III.
The first object of the expedition was to undertake a sledge-journey
to Lambert’s Land, with the purpose of investigating all the places
where there might be any likelihood of finding the bodies of Мутлоз-
ERICHSEN and HøEG-HAGEN. From the information obtained by Cap-
tain Косн through JørGEeN BRONLUND’S journals it was thought likely
that the camp of the perished men would be found at the mouth of a
small fjord, cutting from the North into Lambert’s Land. If we did
not find the camp there, we might be able to locate it off the broad
glacier spanning 79° Fjorden where some, KocH among others, thought
that the party had perished.
But wherever the camp might be, our only chance of finding it
would be in the autumn before the great fall of snow, and with this
in view we had to begin the attempt as early as possible. However,
the new ice was late in forming, and in spite of the fact that all pre-
parations were finished about Sept. 16th, it was not till Sept. 25th that
the ice was thought solid enough to risk the attempt.
It was particularly round Cape Sussi — the northeasterly point of
Shannon Island — that the coast would be difficult to pass, as shifting
currents and winds broke up the young ice, but fortunately we could
rather easily pass over the northeastern peninsula of Shannon Island
through the flat valley connecting the waters on either side of it.
14 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
This valley had the same elevation as the one dividing the south-
eastern peninsula, and like this one it gave the impression of being a
recently elevated ocean-bed, quite level, of an height not exceeding
41/, 6 metres and with steep basalt cliffs hedging it in on both sides.
At the foot of these steep cliffs we found large stretches of ice
(Fig. 4), which would greatly facilitate our crossing, as we had only to
pass about 2000—3000 metres of bare land between these stretches of
ice. For this purpose we constructed a crude, two-wheeled waggon, on
which we could place the loaded sledges, thus being able to drag them across
without unloading. With all hands assisting at this work and using
all our dogs we began the sledge-journey to Lambert’s Land on Sep-
tember 25th, leaving the ship at 9a.m.
Lieut. JORGENSEN, Engineer IVERSEN and I formed the Lambert’s
Land party, and part of the way we were to be helped by Lieut. Laus
and the mate, OLSEN. We took four sledges drawn by twenty-nine
dogs in all, divided so that three sledges and twenty-one dogs formed
the north-going party, while one sledge drawn by eight dogs was to
follow us as far as provisions would allow.
Our plan of crossing the land proved satisfactory, and taking one
sledge at a time, with all the dogs hitched on to it (Fig. 5), we could
by dint of great exertion take it across without any stoppage, but
it was not till 6,30 p.m. that all the four sledges stood on the northern
coast.
On Sept. 26th we went out on the sea-ice after a rather difficult
crossing over the tidal crack, where the ice on the shoreside was frozen
on to the bottom of the shallow coastwater, and being high-water
this ice was flooded to a depth of about 30cm. But by using small pieces
of floating ice as intermediate stopping places we managed to get the
sledges across to the floating ice without having to wait for the ebb.
On the sea-ice we met other difficulties, as the surface was inter-
sected by large channels melted down into it in the course of the summer.
These channels and holes had very steep banks, which rose to a height
of about 60—75 cm above the glare-ice of the bottom. It was often
possible to follow a lead of channels for a considerable distance, but
sooner or later we had to come up the steep banks, which proved very
difficult with the heavy sledges and the slippery footing on the fresh
water-ice.
Our dogs being very fresh and strong we could however make
good progress, but a sledge-journey across floating packice at so early
a date offers other difficulties, which are considerably larger — i. e.
open water, thin ice or crush-ice, consisting of thin ice and small ice-
pieces frozen together to a more or less solid mass.
This kind of surface with projecting ice-points gave us much trouble,
as the pieces of ice were not large enough to necessitate a deviation from
the course, but nevertheless large enough to stop the sledges or catch
Report on the expedition. 15
hold of a dragging trace, thus overthrowing the dogs which were then
hauled underneath the sledge and sometimes hurt by being over-
run by it.
The new ice covered a considerable extent of water, and from Shan-
non Island to Koldewey Island more than 60 % of the traversed ground
was over thin ice, while from the south point of Koldewey Island to
Danmark’s Havn, we did not in all pass 10 % of old ice. Those large sheets
of new ice ranged in thickness from 50cm to an absolute minimum,
and great care should be exercised in passing, as it would take far too
long to ascertain the thickness all the way across a broad pond before
taking the sledges over. We used to drive the sledges over the ice, judg-
ing its thickness by the sound of our footsteps, and only when the ice
sounded very thin, we stopped to investigate, taking good care only
to leave the sledges standing in places where two or more layers of ice
were pushed underneath each other, so as to make the stopping place
as solid as possible.
Salt-water ice is always very tough, and so it was possible to drive
over ice, which bent under the sledges and in thickness did not exceed
two inches, but care must be exercised and judgement used, as the tem-
perature of the preceeding day makes great difference as regards its
strength. Ice formed at a comparatively high temperature has con-
siderably more flexibility than ice formed at a lower one. The former
will bend very considerably before breaking, and may at the same time
have softer spots of the same thickness, where the sledge cuts through.
The ice formed at a low temperature is brittle and does not bend so
easily, but still a sledge may be run over a short distance of this kind
of ice without much danger — even if the ice in thickness does not
exceed 5 cm. |
The different kinds of ice may be distinguished through the sound
of the footfall, which is muffled on ice formed at comparatively high
temperatures, while ice frozen on a single night by a low degree of cold
gives a ringing sound.
On Sept. 29th we reached the first stretch of thin ice which proved
impassable, and we were consequently forced to follow its edge towards
the west, as we did not think it prudent to go further out to sea. Luckily
we found a place where overlapping sheets of thin ice promised a com-
paratively safe road, and in a little less than three hours we had passed
this first lake. On the 30th we came to another lake, which was so
broad that it took us 5 hours’ hard driving to pass it — often over ex-
ceedingly thin ice.
On Oct. Ist we were stopped by perfectly open water which —
from an elevation of 3 metres — we saw reaching to and beyond the
horizon, and as we did not know how long we might have to wait before
being able to proceed, we thought it most prudent to take all the dog-
feed, which Глов and OLSEN could spare, and send them back with
16 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
only 2 days’ provisions. We were not above 25 miles north of Shannon
Island, when we parted company.
There was a good deal of animal life in the open water, and seals
and especially large flocks of narwhals were playing about. We tried to
shoot them for dog-feed, but our bullets made no impression whatsoever
on the animals, which continued to play about us all the afternoon.
A motion in the packice on Oct. 2nd caused a way to be formed
across this large lake, and we used it in spite of the fact that the ice
was in continuous motion and often formed pressure-ridges under our
feet or opened up into wide lanes, which forced us to make long detours.
On account of a fresh NE wind, which sprang up in the afternoon,
the ice got into rather violent motion, and large lanes forming all over
forced us to retrace our steps as fast as possible. We could not be so
careful, as we might have desired, and the result was that one of our
sledges cut through the ice. However everything was saved, but our
dried fish and hard bread became soaked. Luckily we found a small,
old floe on which we could camp, and where we were compelled to re-
main for a while, as a gale had sprung up.
We reached the south point of Koldewey Island on Oct. 4th. Since
we left Shannon Island, we had covered a distance of 38 miles in the
course of 9 days with 73,7 sledging hours, which only made an average
of 0,51 mile an hour. It turned out to be difficult to reach the land,
as the tide had caused a violent motion in the ice, over which we had
to take the sledges, with the result that our sledges cut through several
times, and even our sleeping-bags, lying on top of the loads, be-
came wet.
We decided for the future to keep as close to the shore as possible,
hoping thus to escape the open water-lanes, and to this end we kept
inside the grounded icebergs, which lined the coast.
The ice was fairly good, but in spite of this we made but very poor
progress, as our dogs, which were rather weakened, caused us consider-
able trouble. It surprised us, as they had quite sufficient to eat, about
3 Ibs. of dried fish a day, and every second day some pork-offal. But
fish seems to make very poor dogfeed, probably on account of its lacking
fat altogether, and there was a very marked difference, according as
we used fish or pork feeding, the dogs being in very much better form
after the latter feed.
Dried fish seems however to have been used with success on some
expeditions, and NANSEN and SVERDRUP strongly recommend this kind
of food, but Captain Scorr had the same trouble with his dogs, which
we had with ours — a general weakness followed by death — and he
had called the attention to the risk of feeding the dogs on nothing but
fish. Following his hint we gave the dogs some extra fat ee second
day 1 №.), but even that was not enough.
Still it must be remembered that salmon furnishes a very good
Report on the expedition. 17
dogfeed, probably on account of the large amount of fat which it con-
tains, at any rate when compared with dried cod.
On Oct. 7th we once more went adrift on thin ice, in spite of the
fact that we were not above 14 mile off shore. We drifted to the south,
and the whole of the next day we were surrounded by open water, and
it was not till Oct. 9th that we managed to reach solid land-ice, about
7 miles to the south of the place where we went adrift.
The pressure on the shore-ice had been tremendous, and ice blocks
had been piled up to a height of 10 metres during the stormy weather
of the preceding days.
At last, on Oct. 11th, we reached Danmark’s Havn having been sixteen
days under way from Shannon Island. We had had 123,6 sledging
hours in all, and the distance being only ca. 90 miles it gave an hourly
rate of 0,73 miles.
The dogs were all in a very poor state, and one had died the day
before, so we were forced to remain in Danmark’s Havn for some days
to feed the dogs, and give them a much needed rest.
As to our future provisions we had to take the stores left in Dan-
mark’s Havn, as we did not dare to keep on feeding the dogs with fish.
It was only with regret that we decided on this arrangement, for we did
not like to break up the depot left by the Danmark-Expedition, but
we took care to leave enough provisions for a party to reach the large
depots on Shannon Island, and besides we were absolutely obliged to
get new provisions for our dogs, if we wanted to carry on the voyage and
keep the dogs alive.
We remained in Danmark’s Havn for three days and gave the dogs
warm food twice a day. This once more built up their strength, and
when on Oct. 15th we left the place for Lambert’s Land, the dogs were
again fit and in good form. .
Towards the north the conditions of the ice became quite different from
those south of Danmark's Havn, and instead of thin, unsafe icewe found old
floes or perfectly safe new ice, over which the going at first was quite good.
It took us only twenty-three sledging hours to reach Cape Marie Valde-
mar, but in crossing Skærfjorden we once more got into trouble, now
in the shape of old, hummocky ice with large undulations filled with quite
soft snow, in which the sledges floundered about, sometimes sinking in
as far as above the crossboards. Heavy weather with storms and a con-
siderable fall of snow forced us to remain in camp for a whole day, and
after this time, Oct. 18th, the good going had disappeared, and the rest
of the journey was performed through more or less deep snow or over
ice, where the salt had not yet crystallized, but had only melted the
snow, which became wet and sticky and very difficult to pass.
On Oct. 20th we had got so far that we could lay out our first depot
(135 lbs.) on Bjorneskerene, and this diminishing of the weight eased the
work of the dogs. But still their strength waned, and this in spite of
Lil. 2
18 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
the plentiful and good food. On Oct. 21th one dog died, and on the
following day another, our largest dog.
It may be taken as a common rule that large dogs do not have
the endurance of smaller ones and are consequently not so serviceable
on a long sledge-journey, as the large dog demands more food to keep
his body in good form, and does not work very much more than a smaller
dog — at least not in proportion to the size of the necessary rations — and
it is difficult to give to each dog the exact amount, which he needs. An
ideal team must consist of dogs of very nearly the same size and weight.
Each dog was given a ration of a little more than 1 lb. a day, but in the
course of a few days they became very hungry.
We passed the north point of Hagen Island Oct. 25rd at noon and
found new trouble, as the crust on the surface of the snow, which was
not strong enough to carry the dogs, was so sharp that it cut their paws
and legs. This of course caused them considerable suffering, but the
going became worse on Oct. 24th, as the surface of the ice was full of
larger or smaller holes, where a stone, a mound of sand or some other
dark object had lain on the surface of the snow during the summer,
which in their turn had caused the snow to melt round them. These
holes, ranging from са. 5 ст. to ca. 1 meter in extent and with a
rather uniform depth of са. 1, meter, were covered with a very thin
layer of ice, cat-ice, on which lay the snow. But the very moment
when we — or the dogs — stepped on a place like this, the cat-ice
would break, and we fell down into the empty space underneath,
twisting and hurting our feet, particularly as the bottoms of the holes
were very uneven and often had a sharp, pointed cone in the middle.
A surface like this is rather a common feature when close to a high and
steep coastline, where squalls can tear off the stones or earth and carry
it across the ice, thus providing the material for melting the holes.
On Oct. 27th the second depot was left on the northernmost of
Parisergerne, and just north of it we got on to the floating glacial ice,
where we found good going for the first time since Cape Marie Valdemar.
The surface was undulating, and we continually had to ascend and descend
quite flat hills with a slope so small that it did not make much difference
whether we went up or down, and the conditions became even better
close to the east coast of Schnauder Island, where we got glare-ice.
Cape Drygalski was passed on Oct. 30th, and from there and on to
Lambert’s Land the going was as bad as it could be, while the darkness
— the sun had disappeared on Oct. 26th — helped to make matters
worse, as it was impossible to see the large undulations, before it was
too late. The glacial ice was intersected by many cracks, where often
either we ourselves or the dogs fell in. One dog burst a trace and fell
into a crevasse about 10—15 metres deep, and one of us had to be lowered
down in order to get hold of him.
On Oct. 3151 at 11 a.m. we reached Lambert’s Land, and at 5 p.m. we
Report on the expedition. | 19
were at the depot, thus having used seventeen days with 130,8 едете
hours to cover a distance of 150 miles, making an hourly average of
1,13 miles.
We were helped to find the first trace of the depot by the many
fox-tracks all going in one direction, and looking carefully we discovered
some empty as well as some full tins of provisions under a few pieces
of wood and a Lux-apparatus without any stanchions. It was evident
that the grave of BRØNLUND could not be far off. We went a little
further and camped half a mile from the depot, in order to make sure
that the dogs would not disturb the body. Afterwards we went to the
point and saw a round hole in the snow, which had been dug by foxes,
and seeing also a few fragments of reindeer skin we felt certain that
this must be the resting place of JørGEN BRONLUND, but on account
of the darkness further investigations were postponed until the following
day, Nov. Ist, when the snow round the body was removed and everything
carefully examined — the body as well as the surrounding ground.
On the body we found sinews, cartridges, a comb, a small piece of
brass chain, a watch and a couple of pencils, and underneath the body
a small canvas bag containing a sketchbook, a calendar, some tools and
sewing gears. When we were perfectly sure that nothing more was to
be found, the body was replaced, a crude coffin was made of various
boxes, and stones were piled on so as to make it impossible for the foxes
to touch the body.
The two books were frozen together, and it was not till they had
been melted in the tent, that we could separate the leaves, which did
not contain any writing, but only a sketch made by BRaNLUND of Dan-
marks Fjord and a portrait of MyLius-ERICHSEN and HorG-HAGen.
On Nov. 2nd we left BRØNLUND's grave, and on the same night
we reached the small island NE off Lambert’s Land, where we camped
with the intention of looking for the camping-site of the perished party,
using our own tent as our base of operations.
Splendid clear weather and a moon almost at her full facilitated our
search on Nov. 5rd, when JORGENSEN and I went out, following the routes
shown on the sketch (Fig. 6). We investigated the point marked I
where the party must have passed, and I followed the quite fresh traces
of a bear, hoping that it might have got the scent of the bodies. The
trace disappeared on the land at the place marked II, and we followed
the coast towards the south to the small fjord, which was most likely
the one mentioned in BRONLUND’s last message, where he writes:
The bodies of the two others lie in the middle of the
fjord in front of the glacier (about 10 miles)?
This small fjord might well be said to be “in front of the gla-
слег”, as it was the first one that the party reached, after it had left the
1 Amprup, Medd. om Grønland, Vol. XLI, pag. 192.
20 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
glacier in “Nioghalvfjersfjorden”, and the distance (about 10 miles)
will then be the distance which BrRoNLUND must have walked, until he
reached the place, where he perished.
This fits in very well with everything that is known, and it is also
most likely that the perishing men would follow the coast, where the
going is always bet-
ter with less and
harder snow than
further out, and where
in the semi-darkness
it is much more easy
to know ones where-
abouts than it would
be further out to sea,
1.е. ш the middle of
the fjord. The shore
has another advan-
tage, as the party
might get a stray hare
or ptarmigan when
following it. It cer-
tainly seems most
likely that this route
has been followed, and
I that the fjord men-
be N tioned by BRONLUND
Li А MBE RT 5 LAN, D | is the one marked ПТ.
ila The coast and later
on the mouth of the
fjord as wellas the cape
marked IV were all
| examined very care-
МА es sæ ESKE: м | й fully without however
/ finding the slightest
trace, and the search
had to be given up
in this quarter.
It is most likely that the tent has been raised on the sea-ice, as it
must have been difficult to find suitable snow on land so early in the
winter (middle of November), and in this case the tent and bodies must
have disappeared, as we to our surprise found evidence of a very exten-
sive melting of the sea-ice. A large rivulet runs out in the place marked
x, and this must cause the melting of the ice. The place hatched on the
sketchmap was all covered with new ice, and the old ice surrounding
it must have been in motion last summer, as it was broken up in small
Fig. 6.
Report on the expedition. >:
pieces with edges so sharp that they cannot have been exposed to the
rays of a summer sun.
As the camping site could thus in all probability not have been
on land, it was evident that wherever it might have been in this locality,
it must have melted through the ice or drifted away out to sea.
There was, however, another possibility viz. that BRØNLUND'S
— — — lie in the middle of the fjord in front of the glacier
(about 10 miles)’ might be understood like this, that the middle of
the fjord was meant to be in the middle of “Nioghalvfjersfjorden”,
in which case the distance (about 10 miles) would be the distance
between the glacier front and the camping site.
This however would locate the camping site far out towards the
mouth of the fjord in a line from Cape Anna Bistrup to the island off
Lambert’s Land, and that would seem impossible when assuming that
the party came down over the glacier spanning Nioghalvfjersfjorden.
To investigate this possibility we went NE from our tent on Nov.
4th, but here we found the same conditions as south of our tent, new
ice or old floes broken into pieces and churned about. We even passed
a crack about 7 metres wide, and were surprised to see that the thin
ice covering the water was barely 5 cm thick, thus showing that
the crack had been formed within the last twelve hours, a good evi-
dence of the motion of the ice in this rather deep bay, in which the ice
was not yet quite stationary.
The extent of new ice grew larger, as we advanced towards the
northeast; the floes became more scattered, and we thought it unneces-
sary to go more than 4 miles in this direction, as it was evident that
we would very soon have reached extensive sheets of ice, and that at
any rate only thin ice could be found at the place, where the camp of the
perished men should have been, assuming that the above was the real
interpretation of BRONLUND’s last message. We then gave up the search,
being confident that the bodies of Myrıus-ErıcHsen and HøEG-HAGEN
must have disappeared, either — which is the most likely — by melting
through the ice or by having drifted to sea on a piece of ice.
We did not see the glacier-front, but it must be remembered that
darkness prevented an extensive view, while all near objects were quite
visible.
Everything which could be done in this locality, was now performed,
save a cut out over the ice from our tent towards SE, and this we did
at the beginning of our return journey on Nov. öth at 7,30 a.m. The
ice was of the same kind here as in the other places, which we had already
investigated — old floes with a good deal of new ice in between. None
of the old floes were more than a mile in extension, and the further we
got out, the more scattered they became, giving thus an additional
proof to our theory that the whole of Nioghalvfjersfjorden had been
broken up, and that a great part of the ice had drifted away.
€
29 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
In the evening we camped on our old camping site, not far from
BRONLUND’S grave, on which we laid a flower-offering from the parents
of Horc-HaGEN and a winding sheet from Mrs. MyYLius-ERICHSEN,
feeling certain that this use of the two tokens of remembrance from the
near relatives of the two perished men would be in accordance with
their wishes, as the bodies of those for whom it was intended could not
be found, and BR@NLUND had been the best of comrades to the very last.
We left Lambert’s Land early on Nov. 6th having only four days’ pro-
visions on the sledges (half rations) and kerosene for two days. The
sledges were drawn by sixteen dogs, as five had died on the outward
journey, and of these sixteen several were in a very pitiful state and
might die at any moment.
We headed a little further out to sea than when going north, and
fortunately we found a little better ice, as progress would otherwise
have been impossible on account of the darkness, the snow and the fog.
Nov. 7 and Sth were spent in our tent, as it blew a perfect hurricane,
and though on the following day the weather was good and the ice tole-
rable, we only made very little progress, as the dogs caused us as yet
unheard-of troubles. During the preceding night one had been torn
to pieces and devoured by the others, and at 11 a.m. our largest and
strongest dog gave out, possibly poisoned by eating the liver of the
killed dog. At 1 p.m. a third dog died from sheer exhaustion, and the
fourth fell at 2,50, perfectly worn-out, and it also died in spite of the
fact that we camped and did everything to save the animal.
Thus only twelve dogs remained, and as it was now impossible to
haul 3 sledges, one was left behind. This facilitated our sledging a little,
but in spite of that we did not reach our depot on Parisergerne before
Nov. 12th at 5 p.m, when we had absolutely no provisions left.
We escaped the rough and difficult going from the northern journey
by following another route, a little more to the west and down between
the islands, where we actually found splendid going along the east coast
of the Islands, so good in fact that we reached our depot on Bjorne-
skærene Nov. 16th at 5 p.m.
From there and southward, where we had expected to do some
fast driving, our progress became poor, as the salt-water ice had been
covered by a foot of soft snow, which made the hauling of the sledges
very heavy.
In passing Skerfjorden on Nov. 18th we went further into the fjord
than on our northward journey, thus escaping the old, hummocky ice
with its soft snow.
On Nov. 19th, shortly after we had passed Cape Marie Valdemar,
we lost another dog, but this was the last accident on this part of the
trip, and we reached Danmark’s Havn on Nov. 22nd at noon.
In spite of the darkness we had made better time going south
than north, where we had an hourly average of 1,13 miles against 1,31
miles on our southward journey with only 114 sledging hours.
Report on the expedition. 23
We decided to remain in Danmark’s Havn for three days in order
to give the dogs the much needed rest, hoping to get the animals so fit
that we could reckon on bringing them all back to “Alabama”. But
the weather kept on being bad, and we had continuous storms with
snow until Dec. 2., when at last we resumed our journey, hoping in spite
of the darkness to reach the “Alabama” in ten days.
This proved a false hope, as the going was very hard in consequence
of the heavy snowfall, which had left a deep layer on the ice. The
snow was quite soft underneath a thin crust, which could neither carry
men, dogs nor sledges. Already on the first day from Danmark’s Havn
Lieut. JORGENSEN was so unfortunate as to freeze his feet very severely
and could not do much work, but luckily he was able to walk all
the way in spite of the fact that his feet became blistered and later on
inflamed. They froze repeatedly, as our footgear was too small to
allow room for the large bandages in which they were wrapped, and he
suffered extremely. But he kept on marching with unparrralled
courage.
Two days, Dec. 3rd and 4th, we spent in camp, being compelled to
do so by a violent storm, and the layer of snow had increased, when
once more on Dec. 5th we were able to proceed. The darkness prevented
our seeing anything whatsoever, and when we struck a small pressure-
ridge, it took us 21% hours to pass it, although its width did not exceed
300 metres. One dog died, and the rest became rapidly weaker. It
was impossible to proceed with the weights, which we had on our sledges,
and everything not absolutely necessary was left in a depot on the top of
an iceberg on Dec. 6th. To illustrate the darkness it may be mentioned
that starting on this day at 9,30 a.m., we could not see the face of a watch
without the aid of a match. We were heading towards Teufelkap, and
the going was so hard that we had to rest every 10 minutes; were the
dogs being perfectly played out and one died towards evening.
At last, on Dec. Sth, we reached the snow-bare ice in Roon Bay,
in which connection it may be stated that sledging on the east coast of
Greenland is always better along a coast facing east or south than a
coast facing north or west. The same conditions will be found, wherever
the direction of the land is such that the prevailing winds blow across
it at an angle, and the higher and steeper the coast, the less snow on
the ice. The influence of a steep coast may be felt far out to sea, for
instance we passed Teufelkap at a distance of 6 miles and found the
snow quite hard in spite of its softness further out to sea, and about
4 miles off the cape we met the first snow-bare spots.
On Dec. 9th we camped off the mouth of Bessel Bay and became
once more weatherbound for a period of two days, provisions now
running very low.
The journey was continued on Dec. 12th, and sledging under rather
a steep coast we had very good ice. One dog fell at noon and had to
be lashed on top of the loads, until we camped, but it died during the night.
24 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
We were of course surprised to lose so many dogs, all the more as
there was nothing to account for their death, save a general weakness.
This however ought not be the case, as we fed the dogs very well, and
the short working-day gave them more than sufficient time to rest.
One definite cause may perhaps be mentioned — with what right I dare
not say — viz. the fact that there is no evaporation during the autumn
or winter. The consequence is that all the moisture penetrating into
the furs of the dogs must be dried by the heat of the body, which how-
ever is not sufficient to do it altogether. On sledge-trips at this time
of the year the dogs are consequently always wet, and they suffer much
from this continuous state of wetness, which will very likely lower their
bodily temperature and weaken their vitality,
This explanation, such as it is, seems the only reasonable one, as
the dogs were fed about 1% lbs. a day and had only to work as much
as about six hours a day.
The Haystack was passed on Dec. 13th, and we were compelled to
leave the coast and go across the ice, direct for Shannon Island. The
going was very rough and difficult and became still more so, as in the
darkness it was impossible to see the state of the ice even a few metres
ahead. We had to work blindfold and often fell into deep holes, or
we were stopped by a wall of ice, neither of which things were visible
beforehand. The dogs were so exhausted that they could hardly stand,
and so our progress was exceedingly slow.
We reached Shannon Island on Dec. 16th, but we did not reach
the “Alabama” before the 17th 4 p.m., as in the darkness we had taken
too westerly a course, thus striking land at a place where it was too
steep to climb. To cover the distance from Danmark’s Havn to Shannon
Island, a stretch of 90 miles, we had used sixteen days with in all 78,3
sledging hours, an hourly average of 1,14 miles.
We had all in all been eighty-four days on the trail, nine of which
were spent in the house in Danmark’s Havn. We had had eleven storm-
bound days, and our investigations at Lambert’s Land had taken four
days, so that in reality we had been fifty-eight days on the trail with
446,7 sledging hours, giving an hourly average of 1,07 miles.
Of the twenty-one dogs, which we took north, only seven remained,
and two of the seven died on the day after our arrival.
The Sledge-expedition to Danmark’s Fjord.
Plate I and ПТ. |
The plan and outtitting.
The journey from Shannon Island, via the Inlandice to Danmark’s
Fjord, along the outer coast, round Nordostrundingen and back to
Shannon Island covers a distance of about 1020 miles, and this journey
was to be performed without the aid of depots, save one laid out in Feb.
Report on the expedition. 25
1910 in Bessel Bay and the stores left in Danmark Havn. The distance
between these depots is about 900 miles.
It was absolutely necessary to make use of a support-party in order
to perform the voyage, and all available men and dogs had to be taken
from the ship.
The plan was as follows: The two parties were to travel together along
the coast to Cape Peschel and on their way to lay out some small depots
for the main-party; then they were to go in between the islands in Dove
Bay, until they could find a convenient ascent to the Inlandice on Brede
Bre, and finally along northward over Storstrømmen, until the pro-
visions of the support-party were consumed. We had calculated to be
able to take the support-party as far as about 78° or possibly 78°30’
N. Lat.
When lack of provisions forced the two parties to separate, the
support-party was to return southward, to go north of Dronning Louise’s
Land, follow its western coast for surveying purposes and either
return to the sea-ice over L. Bistrups Bre or through Ardencaple
Inlet.
The main-party would proceed northward over the Inlandice from
the place of separation, and its further plans would partly be depen-
dent upon the SE of the journey — in days — over the In-
landice.
If the journey over the Inlandice could be performed before April
20th, and if the conditions for returning this way during the latter half
of the summer were thought favourable, a depot would be left at the
place of descent, and an attempt would then be made to reach the
western entrance of Peary Channel, after the west coast of Danmark’s
Fjord had been searched for remains of the lost My tius-EricHsEN
party.
The return-journey would then take place along the old trail, con-
siderably helped by the depots laid out by the north- and west-going
parties.
However, in case the trip across the Inlandice should take longer
than expected, or in case the conditions for returning along the out-
ward trail were considered bad at the more advanced season, then all
the provisions would be taken along to Danmark’s Fjord, and the return-
journey to Shannon Island would take place along the outer coast of
northeast Greenland.
It was this latter part of the plan, which was eventually
adopted.
The basis for the calculation of provisions after the separation of
the parties was a distance of 10 miles a day, with one stormbound day
each week.
The amount of days for which provisions were taken along was
calculated as follows:
KS
ES
[№
\
NCAT
OS Ar
1
SO
т
@
2
A
26 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
100 days’ provisions for 2 men, weighing 180,32 kilo (main-party)
52 - = - à - — 94,08 - (support-party)
26 - = = abe te — 145,04 - (main &supp.-party)
SLOMMPPOVISIONS:, SEAL es ENTREE 25,00 -
Of dogpemmican we carried in all...... 575,00 -
Total provisions (men & dogs)...... 1019,44 kilo
Of permanent weight we had to transport for 2 men........ 191,26 kilo
- — =) Sa — С 200,00 -
Petroleum for 2 mens party including depot-petroleum ..... 58,13 -
— OURS = MIO DATA es 19,205
— - 5 - о. 30,00 -
Depots to be laid out for return journey......:........ 102,21. -
Permanent weight, petroleum & depot.................. 600,80 -
Provisions for men dogs te LR re 1019,44 -
Total... 1620,24 kilo
These 1620,24 kilo was the total weight to be transported, when the
party left Bessel Bay, but in leaving the “Alabama’ we had to trans-
port almost 1900 kilo.
It was necessary to resort to double-banking, when such a large
weight had to be transported by five men and twenty-one dogs, and
it was not till April 9th, the last day when the parties travelled together,
that the weight had been so greatly reduced that it was possible to
transport it all at one haul.
In order to ensure the safety of the main-party on its return-journey
depots were laid out in the following places:
I Haystack, provisions for 2 men and 3 dogs in 6 days..... 21,08 kilo
IT Cape Peschel — - - - - - = See 21,08 -
ПТ The place of ascent to the Inlandice Se =
with petroleum 30,25 -
IV Off the NE point of Dronning Louise’s Land — — 44,03 -
Nos. I and II of these depots would be used in any case, provided
the main-party returned to Shannon Island, but the depots Nos. III
and IV would only be used, if the return-journey was undertaken along
the outward trail. Means for floating across open water were also left
at depot No. III as well as one sledge, which had become superfluous
because of the diminishing of the supplies.
As very bad weather and rough ice prevented our journeying as
fast as calculated, the depot No. IV was left on the ice off Cape Bellevue,
and a little to the north of that the provisions for the support-party.
The plan which was eventually adopted and carried into effect was
then this:
A depot-journey under the command of Lieut. LauB was performed
during the latter half of February 1910, with the result that 550 kilo
dog-pemmican was left on the ice off Bessel Bay.
Report on the expedition. 27
The main-party consisting of IVERSEN and MIKKELSEN, and the
support-party consisting of OLSEN, Poursen and Глов (leader) left
Shannon Island on March 3d with all our dogs— twenty-one in all. The
parties journeyed together to Haystack, where depot I was left, then
to Cape Peschel (double-banking from Bessel Bay) where depot II was
left, in between the islands off Brede Bree, where depot III as well as a
sledge was left close to the Inlandice on a island at 76°42’. The parties
went from there over Storstrømmen, where depot IV was left about 6
miles off land and on 77°16’ М. Lat. and further north to 77°26’, where
the support-party returned.
This party returned to the depot on 77°16’ and from there went
north of Dronning Louise’s Land and along its west coast to 77°10’, where
the party returned and followed the outward track to Dove Bay, and
from there went to Shannon Island via Danmark’s Havn.
The main-party proceeded northward, and did not get down to land
till at such a late period that returning over the Inlandice was out of
the question, and all the provisions were consequently taken along on
the continued journey — along the west coast of Danmark’s Fjord to
Cape Rigsdagen, from where the return-journey was commenced. The
outer coast of northeast Greenland, around Nordostrundingen, was fol-
lowed until Danmark’s Havn and back to Shannon Island, the party
more or less supporting itself on the depots left along the coast by the
Danmark-Expedition.
The outfits carried by the two parties were quite similar, and men-
tion is therefore only made of that of the main-party, as it was the most
carefully selected.
The outfit may be divided in:
I. permanent weights (every thing which is not eatable)
II. diminishing weights (provisions, fuel ete.).
List of permanent weights.
Number | Weight |Total weight
— of articles —
Articles of outfit |
Sledging outfit: | SR 1
а: ea | 2 | 60,00 |
ть НЕ 2 190. |
ee en a EE | 2 16402 |
RO PEMALDS: SoS 2.2.2 een SSS | 30 meter 1,18 |
ii ones ASA BE org ее | 5,5 meter 0,42
Spare ЕЕ: fois er as Gus ae en 5 1553
Te pe N о НЕК | 25 meter 4,63
SONS RUES a as ee eee anden de | 2 3,92
Canvas for making boat ................ | 1 | 1,95
Я а | 10 | 0,57
| | 83,88 | 83,83
28 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
Number Weight Total weight
Articles of outfit
of articles
Kilo Kilo
Camping outfit: 83,83
Outer tent-covering.. 16. ec een ik 5,00
Inner tent-covering (sewn on to total Canvas) iL 1,65
Tentpoles .... ck brats о Зе ель. 4 5,90
Sleepingbags.. He eum te hae ne rendue 2 9,00
Cover for sleepingbags .................. 2 3,00
Fur underiAvers nn. - ee sec ese a 2 4,80
BUS SENSE о NE CURE Ce SR BEA 1 | 0,17
УИ < оО оо а il 0.50
30,02 30,02
Cooking utensils:
Box70lscookingfutensils . an ar sets 1 | 3.15 |
Primus filled with kerosene.............. 1 | 1,46 |
Spares BATLS/Tor Primus. 3h ее | 0,30
Atmel! 19 sill) 129 ee il 0,04
Cooking pots of aluminium.............. | 2 0,98
Frying pan of aluminium ............... | 1 0,21
Mating БО: Sos sa SE amas spice ete | 2 0,38 |
о ee rare: | 3 | 0,10
М и ol eee | | 0,33
Tank “with Spier tS Eee waste | 1 | 0,22
CAT OPEN ER PE een | 3 | 0,21
7,38 7,38
Spare clothing for 1 man: |
SUIS LOL underwear LT 0 eee sieste ee 1 0,60
о ло sate а | 5 0,88
Mittens & woolgloyes <3. .... еее ны, | 3 0,50
Calico overalls) Tor mittens ee 5 0,27
Hurmittens ee oo nies err i 0,25 |
Sealskini ии ое < creer NR NSA Ene 1 0,25 |
Fur stockings FS Jan see à: dolce co 1 0,37
RAMICRS ee Е не REE SE 5 4,40
Е о о ee | 1 0,60
Nenmepras with За 0-0... | 0,70
TLaupardshoes nen een ea | 1 0,75
(ЕЯ собообобосовросовасссоюс | 1 0,83
DNOWEIASSES ее: 2 | 0,06
WC.) Paper cries as Scrers о eta ee | | 0,37
Spare diary EAN EA re | 1 02200)
Pencils yy... jst eh ес ке 2 0,02 |
Sack for spare-elothing дл... „u .. ste il 0,35
| 11,37 22,74
| 143,97
Report on the expedition.
29
Number Weight Total weight
Articles of outfit ale = RE Е
of articles
i 5 — Kilo | Kilo
nstruments etc.: 143,97
SOU aM Grates NER SEES cam, И al 2,29
itheodolite with -trepod 6. SELE runs il 8,28
Nautical almanac etc. о. 0,22
RASS OSE en ed ste be) erence Freien Be ai 0,99
MOOI MASS Oi ET as san нес. 1 0,12 |
ТОТ о NS ра al 0,28
ENNELMOMELEIS 0e eee ut res sere ove 4 0,14
PACK GNOORS RE am etes sonia se 4 1,12
TESTA TTS ey ne ue naar 6 0,03
India-rubber, dividers ete. ............... il 0,08
MARS о 0 hihi ae sr ce 0,43
GAME RE detente le Me tact ale 1 1,55
ВИТЬ О Е suave SEN a's een 200 2,48
О Se 2 Sc steels Sole arme esters else | т 0,50
Box tom instruments 2.010 eee il 1,03
19,54 19,54
Tools ete.:
о Royo Since iad RER 1 2,25 |
KEEPER EU Ares antag wie weirs eis sche eide.e's L 1,63 |
а а 1 1221001
Wankey: toolchest :..". eee IL 0,32 |
ОИ оО Оо ses 1 0,38
Но BANDE A ei a SAGER il 0,08
НО а а ий 6 0,05
ИО ово оао 0,26
ВЕС ITEM EE ea acc seer learn eat 0,12
DAWA WIG sparechlade.... :::-....2..1.... 1 0,21
SO TOR TOURS tinct А rt 1 0,06
6,58 6,58
Guns and ammunition:
Baden eue er are onal area ers al vs
Biichskindt et TS ote oe gates не 1 | 2
Basttigges LOL, TINO о aise eels eee 200 8,18
Bartrıdgesstor: shotsun,. Ее | 50 2,71
Spare parts lort guns ses ERR ake | 0,30
18,19 18,19
Dewine Material in Box ....:.....2.:.% | 0,60 0,60
Medicine etc.:
ее ть ое din es er: 0,54
Bandages Gc dressings: 6202 ene 0,38
0,92 0,92
Total of Permanent Weights.. 189,80
30 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
Number Weight
Clothing worn by each man: Kilo
Woo kunderne ат Ce. | 1 | 0,60
Rur-anorak (outer) Free els seo et au | 1 2,20
Shee ee LIN 1:1) ES RR ace teh wet acs | a 0,82
Cal CO аа. il 0,67
О TS оао SETE ee il 0,85
SITOWEO VORA renee ee ler | it 0,42
Pair Of stoekumasy. ао DSE ale ae | 2 0,33
UE SOC RIM anna see cia tee cere | 1 0,39
ETES ее | 1 0,60
Wearing sole for finnesko ............... 1 1,00
Patmos woollenamittens 22. asien 1 0,09
— - fur — ee cll Cher een ce 1 0,22
— ~-.woollen half gloves .........».:... il 0,10
[SKOEN A ne rte ee око 1 0,15
Woollenzcap К ОИ" | it 0,10
Weight of 1 man’s clothing... | | 8,54
Remarks to the list of permanent weights.
Sledging outfit.
The sledges were rather heavy and were made so on purpose, as
we expected to find a very rough surface, and subsequent events showed
that the sledges were in no respect too heavy in build.
We used two different types of sledges, one of the ordinary Eskimo
pattern made of ashwood and with iron-shod runners, and the other a
combination of a Nansen and a Yukon sledge, that is a long, narrow
sledge with broad runners and the uprights prolonged above the body
of the sledge and connected on top by a thick cane, lashed firmly to
them and to either end of the sledge. This sledge proved very ser-
viceable on snow or rough ice, as the broad wooden runners made hauling
easy on snow, and it likewise was very strong and flexible when travel-
ling over, rough ice.
The boat-canvas was an ordinary sheet of waterproof canvas 6 X
4 metres with holes along its edges.
The idea was to wrap it round one of the sledges and lash it, by
means of the holes, to the railings of the sledge, thus making a raft on
which men and outfit could be ferried across short stretches of open
water. It proved very serviceable, but not in the intended manner,
as the sledge for which it was constructed was left behind im Danmark
Fjord. Instead of wrapping it round the sledge a very large bundle
was made of all our camping outfit; the piece of canvas was wrapped
all round this bundle, which was then lashed on our sledge, giving to it
buoyancy enough to carry the outfit and as a rule our two selves across
short stretches of water.
a Serie
Mepp. ом Gront. LII.
ne en _ <j
Fig. 8. The tent,
Fig. 9. Tentcloth thrown back, showing inside of tent,
Mepp. om GRØNL. ШТ.
Fig. 10. A Jake on the Inlandice, just south of the place of ascent. (Later-on called Bagfjorden by Capt. Koch.)
Report on the expedition. ol
The dog kamicks
did not prove very serviceable, as the dogs will wear holes in them
within a very short time. Small pieces of calico fastened with strings
are better and last longer than the kamicks, as they can be shifted a
‘little, when they are worn through.
The camping outfit.
The tent which is of such vital importance on arctic expeditions,
was of a new pattern, hitherto only used by the Alasca Eskimo. I had
simplified the pattern a little, substituting cane-rods for willow-branches,
and thus we had got an exceedingly good tent, which cannot be recom-
mended too strongly.
The framework of the tent consisted of 4 canes, with both ends
stuck into the snow, thus forming arches, two and two together, cros-
sing each other and tied together with a thong in the four crossing
places. A halfround frame-work is thus formed (Fig. 7), and a square
sheet of thin calico is spread over it. The flaps are weightened down
by snow.
It is an exceedingly simple tent, easy to erect in all kinds of weather
and very safe, as the spherical surface makes it possible for the wind
to blow from every direction without meeting a square side (Fig. 8).
The tent is very roomy and warm, particularly when an inner cloth is
used, and this is likewise very commendable, as it saves fuel and prevents
moisture from forming on the sides of the tent.
There was no bottom to this tent, which must also be considered
an advantage, as the bottom in an ordinary tent will become very heavy
after quite a short period. Two reindeer-skins were used instead of the
tentfloor as an underlayer for the sleeping-bags (Fig. 9); they are warmer
than the ordinary tentfloor and can be dried in a short time while
hanging over the sledge on a fine day.
The diameter of the canes was 21% cm. but may be made smaller
(probably 2 cm); their length was 5 metres, and the calico cover was
5% x 4% metres. The only disavantage of this tent is that it is
rather heavy.
The spare clothing:
We carried more spare clothing than is usually done on expeditions,
as everything had to be planned in such a manner that we might have
a good and suitable outfit for a summer spent on the coast. We there-
fore had to take some overalls, which we could use, when it was too
warm for the fur, but the question of foot-wear was far more important,
as we would have to use a good deal, if we had to ramble over land looking
for game. The laupardshoes were particularly calculated for use in
the summer, but were very quickly worn to pieces and worthless, so
kamicks were practically used the whole time. We had each 5 pair
32 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
of spare kamicks, and it was quite sufficient, as one pair of kamicks
when properly handled will last almost a month, and the soles are easily
repaired or even renewed. The woollen gloves were also intended
for summer use.
Arms and ammunition.
The amount of arms and ammunition was also larger on account
of the summer, which we would possibly have to spent on the coast,
but the two hundred rifle-cartridges were too many, and we left a hundred
on Schnauder Island. More shotgun-cartridges would however have
been very desirable.
Medicines etc.
We only carried the smallest possible weight, but we had been too
economical as regards this item, and future explorers must particularly
be warned against doing as we did, i. e. excluding lime-juice from the
outfit. It is very important indeed, and the lack of it may prove fatal
to the members of the party.
As will appear from the list of clothing worn by each man, we
almost exclusively used fur clothing, with thin calico overalls. It is
strongly to be recommended, as it is both lighter and warmer than
woollen clothing, but one must be very careful in selecting the skins
for the clothing, as the skins of old animals are too stiff to be warm. The
inner anorak weighing but 0,82 kg. was made of new-born calves,
and we wore the furry side nearest the body.
These few remarks attached to the list of permanent weights
do not pretend to give anything like a complete description of the outfit,
but their object is simply to call attention to a few items on the list,
which may not be so well known, and to explain and appraise articles
of outfit, which were used for the first time by this expedition.
Diminishing weigths.
The provisions for the men on the sledge-expedition were calculated
as follows on the basis of the daily ration for one man:
Kinds of food Kilo
Раиса оо ее 0,320
Bitters =. se EE oe cles eee Gee 0,125
Bis unsere о aero ee 0,300
Chocolate tied RR oo ee 0,110
Dred peasec pork о. 0,070
Dried: vegetables... wie entree 0,020
WSs Soho wus Sat hee ech te took ee 0,0025
UFER... SE Es ie le cates EEE" 0,025
Ба ое о cee ee: 0,007
Report on the expedition. 33
This daily ration served very well and was quite sufficient, so that
we could even save a little every day.
The drawback of this daily ration was that the amount of biscuits
was a little too small, and I am inclined to think that it would be far
better if the ration of pemmican was slightly reduced and the difference
made up by biscuits.
The dried peas and pork we used to mix with the pemmican, and the
outcome was a very good thick stew, as the dried peas absorbed the
grease in the boiling pemmican.
The chocolate was our daily lunch and was always eaten dry while
travelling.
The total amount of provisions transported by the sledge-party was:
| Provisions for
Kinds of food. le aa FAE AE ER
|2 menin 3menin ömenin | 3 men in Total
|92 days | 32 days | 26 days | 6 days |
IBEmmIcan EEE UNS ее | 58,88 30,12. | 41,60 + 5,76 136,96
Пе meri ud aaa samen c'e 23,00 12,00 16,25 | 2,25 58,50
RETTEN En | 55,20 | 28,80 39,00 | 5,40 128,40
О eines. | 20,24 10,56 14,30 | 1,98 47,08
Pred peas S pork: .<...... 6s. | 12,88 6,72 SIO) | 1,26 29,96
Dried vegetables .............. | 3,68 1:99 | | 2.60 0,36 | 8,56
В... | 0,46 021 |’ 20,325 0045 1,07
А a SR Nes | 4,60 | 2,40 3,25 0,45 | 10,70
She SAT A | 1,38 Om 019750 0135. ет
Total weight for each party.. | 180,32 | 94,08 | 12440 1, 10.64 | 219,44
The amount of 419,44 kilo is the weight of all men-provisions, with
the exception of the provisions meant for the eight days of storm. The
weight of packing is not included in the above mentioned weight.
The provisions taken northward from the place, where the support-
party left the main party, were packed in six different boxes with the
object of laying depots for the return-journey in convenient places, as
explained in plan.
The food was packed as follows:
In order to reduce the weight of the packing as much as possible,
all superfluous tins were removed; then the different kinds of food were
wrapped up in paper, and it was all packed in a tinbox of the required
size. These large tinboxes were carefully soldered, and the provisions
were quite safe. However we did not gain so much in weight, as we
might have done, if it had not been necessary — with the trip west-
ward into the Peary Channel in view — to pack the provisions in boxes
for 10, 8 & 6 days, but we managed to get the total percentage of tins,
in proportion to provisions carried, reduced to 9,0 %.
LI.
Se)
EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
34
| Provisions for | Provisions for Provisions for | Provisions for | Provisions for | Total of
Kinds of Food 46 days 20 days 10 eave 8 days 6 days & Fe
Weight Packing Weight Packing Weight Packing Weight Packing Weight Packing Weight Packing
INCA sor 000 000 0,00 00 00 dod 30,720 3.48 | 22.800 6.410 ; 51180 = 3.840 = 58.905 3.48
Butter ate 1985 |, 2215 4.550 oe 2.465 i 2.040 5 1.500 be 22.510 2.15
IBIS CUIESHME os oo aa RENSEDE RR MEE as 27.600 AL 11.950 Rs 7.500 Е 4.300 er 3.600 nic 54.950
Chocolate ео ren 10.135 | 0.26 4.400 < 2.200 : 1.760 + 1.320 SÅ 19.815 0.26
BRAS ROM POKER eee 6.440 55 2.800 % 1.3275 ; 1188 ar 0.845 = 12.595
Dried Vegetables........... 1.840 or 0.815 vi 0.410 =: 0.320 ey 0.250 tr 3.635
аи ие 0.230 0.20 0.100 0.09 0.050 0.03 0.040 0.03 0.030 0.02 0.450 | 0.35
UC AE etre ENS Odense DE 2.300 0.68 1.000 0.18 0.500 0.08 0.400 0.10 0.300 0.11 4.500 | 1.16
Salt reyes N 0.695 0.08 0.300 0.09 0.145 0.02 0.125 0.02 0.090 0.01 1.855 | 0.22
ЕЕ Е ae Ane 0.140 me 0.140 oe 0.140 5 0.140 we 0.140 г 0.700
Dogpemmican ................ || 165.500 9.75 || 15.750 0.88 15.000 : 7.500 eis 4.500 a 208.250 | 10.63
Box for packing men’s food... oy 5.50 ER 2.75 SK 2.75 = 1.70 en 1275 т 14.50
Total of provision & packing .. | 257.565 | 22.10 | 54.855 3.99 36.195 2.88 22.895 1.90 16.415 | 1.89 1388.065 | 32.75
Total weight transported ...... 279.665 58.845 39.075 24.795 18.305 420.815
Packing in percentage of food 8:20, ив» eG Soma 5 А 30295
Packing in percentage of total
WEICHE ae ИИ К (Bel V6 618593 110007 Coe A 10:4 % (eh Yh
Report on the expedition. 35
Besides the provisions included in the above list we carried as for-
merly mentioned some food to be used during storm days, so that on
those days we could get a complete change of diet. The storm-pro-
visions consisted of
Bacon er en 4,5 kg.
Dmed’apples 2... <=. 5,0 -
SUAS ES eee atten 1.0. =
Brown beans......... 5,5 kg.
16,0 kg
The necessary amount of biscuits and tea was saved out of the
ordinary ration. This change of diet was particularly welcome and may
be strongly recommended, but the brown beans, although very good
when cooked, did not fulfil our expectations, as we could not afford to
use fuel enough to get them properly cooked.
Another important item of diminishing weight is the kerosene, of
which we carried 34,13 kg. — 100 days’ consumption. The daily allow-
ance pr. man was 0,17 kg. which was quite sufficient, though on the
other hand it could not be further reduced, as long as the party consisted
of two men. A party of three men however can easily get along on
less. It may here be stated that we did not use the NANSEN cooker,
which is so much used nowadays, as we wanted to heat our tent a
little. In spite of this the kerosene was ample to allow us to cook
pemmican and tea twice a day and to give us as much water to drink
as we wanted.
The sledge-journey was as mentioned calculated to last for a hundred
days without our getting new supplies, and supposing that the dogs were
fed with 0,5 kilo we would need 50 kg. food for each dog within this span
of time. The eskimo-dogs on an average can not be reckoned on for
hauling more than 50 kg., and in fact it amounts to this that on a hundred
days’ journey the dogs can only haul their own provisions — continually
assuming that the dogs shall be kept alive.
The only way to make the dogs valuable on such a long sledge-journey
is to kill them, as the load diminishes, and feed them to the survivors,
so that the weight hauled by each dog is nearly constant on the whole
journey, in other words, to kill a dog whenever 50 kg. is eaten.
The following scale will show the way in which this was planned
for the main-party.
This table explains itself, and it is only necessary to call
attention to the fact that two dogs were killed simultaneously at
the end of 30 days of sledging in order to raise the average weight hauled
by each dog to more than 40 kg. The average pr. dog increases rapidly
from here and downward, but it must be born in mind: firstly, that
the weakest dogs were of course killed first, secondly, that on this smaller
3%
EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
36
| | | | | | Total
Number of Number | Number о ane en | a aoe | Fe Weight of) ae pulled by
sledging days a a ae De fed on | Dog Man") | tion of provisions | weight + ae at
from basis | wanting | food |dogkilled| о SERGE Jonsledges| weight of re or
Dog-meat Pemmican Provisions provisions
№ ; м en each term
ее 15 = 7 a | ig ai 457.48 647.48 43.2
NOR er 14 об 1 9 | 50.25 23.60 13.85 383.78 573.68 41.0
PAUSE 3° | 13 1 15 1 9 | 46.87 23.60 70.47 313.30 || 503.20 38.6
BUS ete pire 12 1 20 2 8 38.6: 23.60 62.23 251.07 440.97 36.7
80. Sond и 10 2 40 4 il 4.50 11.80 16.30 234.78 424.68 42.4
ое 9 il 18 2 3 10.50 11.80 22.30 212.47 402.37 44.1
с мае 8 1 16 2 8 | 28.50 23.60 52.10 160.38 350.28 43.7
DD erator ie sa 6 2 36 6 Se | Ax 11.80 11.80 148.57 338.47 56.3
GOR ÆRE BORER 5 il 20) 4 1 2.25 11.80 14.05 134.52 324.42 64.8
RR Bs 4 1 20 5 5 9.37 23.60 32.97 101.55 201.45 12.8
ха уе. Е 4 56 : sxe 10 | 15.00 23.60 38.60 62.95 252.85 63.2
CRC PAR 3 1 18 6 4 | 4.50 23.60 | 2810 | 3485 | 224.75 75.0
RES OURS 3 Ki A > lo ee 23.60 34.70
12 217 33 67 | 221.47 236.00 457.47 |
1) including petroleum.
Report on the expedition. 37
weight the personal work in hauling done by the men would amount
to much more than formerly — that is, the men could almost pull the
sledge themselves — and finally, that the permanent weight will de-
crease a little in course of time and that one sledge would be left behind,
when it was possible to drag all that remained on one sledge. All this
would count so much that the apparent larger average pr. dog after
55 days’ of sledging would, in spite of everything, be proportionally
smaller.
This list was worked out onboard the ship and used on the trail
with very little alteration.
The Journey from Shannon Island via the Inlandice
to Danmark’s Fjord.
March 3rd—May 12th 1910.
It was not till March drd that everything was ready for the final
departure of the sledge-expedition to Danmark’s Fjord, and we were off
at 9 a.m. with four sledges drawn by all our dogs, twenty-one in all.
LAUB, IVERSEN, OLSEN, POULSEN and myself formed the party, which
was later on to be divided in the following manner: LAUB, OLSEN and
POULSEN were to go along the west coast of Dronning Louise’s Land,
while IVERSEN and myself were to go all the way to Danmark’s Fjord.
At first the going was rather hard, as the low temperature of the
preceding day had crystallized the snow, which made the sledges drag
very heavily, and this in spite of the fact that the sledges were rather
light, weighing on an average not more than 220 kilo. At any rate
we made but poor progress, which may however be caused by some
of the dogs becoming unserviceable, as their pads were quickly worn
through by the sharp snow.
It took us 36 sledging hours to cover the distance between Shannon
Island and the Haystack, which we reached on March 7th after having
crossed a very bad stretch of ice covered with very large hummocks,
some of which were so high and steep that all hands had to help to take
each sledge across.
In this connection it may be of interest to state that sledging is
very much easier when going over the ground on a course cutting the
general direction of the wind at so small an angle as possible. Wherever
there are hummocks, the wind will cut away the snow from its wind-
ward side, leaving it steep and bare, while it deposits the snow to the
leeward of the same hummock, thus forming a long and even snow-
bank, over which it is fairly easy to drive the sledges, even to a rather
considerable height. The same holds good on level ground, but in a
much smaller degree, as the end of a snow-wave pointing towards the
wind is steep and may stop the sledge, while its other end is so even
and slanting that it can hardly be felt.
38 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
Under land the going became much better, as the ice was compa-
ratively smooth, and from the Haystack northward to Cape Peschel, we
even found large stretches of glare-ice. The depot laid out by Laus
at the mouth of Bessel Bay was passed on March 9th at 11a.m., and
having convinced ourselves that it was in good order we proceeded at
once towards Cape Peschel, which we passed on March 10th, after which
we unloaded the sledges on a little island just north of it. We had
now to begin double-banking, and LauB, assisted by OLSEN and POULSEN,
returned for the depot in Bessel Bay, while IVERSEN and myself went
across towards Cape Helgoland in order to try to find the depot left
on a iceberg during the autumn of last year. We met very bad going
and had to plough through snow more than ”/, meter deep. This kind
of going continued all the way across Dove Bay, and it was not till March
12th at 10,30 а. m. that we had reached a place somewhere in the neigh-
bourhood of the depot. We left the tent on the ice and drove out with
an empty sledge, zig-zagging along, thus hoping to get near the depot.
We had nearly given it up as lost, when a stick was seen, sticking
out of the snow far away, and driving close we found that it was one
of the sledge-runners which we had raised on end to mark the depot.
Our surprise was great when we reached the iceberg, which had been
rather imposing in the autumn, and found it quite buried in the snow;
the snow must in this place have been almost five metres high, as we
could drive right over the iceberg without noticing anything but a small
undulation.
Bears and foxes had disturbed the depot, but all necessary articles
were intact, and our mission ended we returned to Cape Peschel, which
we reached on March 14th, laying out our second depot for the return-
journey on the cape itself.
LAUB arrived in camp in the course of the afternoon, having suc-
ceeded in bringing up the depot from Bessel Bay and advancing it about
10 miles to the west, where it was unloaded on the ice between Tvil-
lingerne, and on March 15th we advanced the rest of our stores, once
more working together.
Thus far we had not had a single rest since leaving Shannon Island,
and the dogs were very tired and needed a day off, so we were quite
pleased, when a gale sprang up compelling us to remain in camp all
of March 16th, in which manner we got the much needed rest.
To our infinite surprise our dogs had become very much weakened,
probably not, however, so much on account of the work as on account
of immoderate sexual intercourse. More than half of our dogs were
bitches, and as they were all in heat at the same time, the male dogs
could not be kept within bonds. This sapped the strength of males
as well as females, and great care ought to be taken to avoid an occur-
rence of this kind, as in particular the male dogs became quite worn
out. If we had not been so fortunate as to get a bear on March 17th,
Report on the expedition. 39
I am sure that some of our dogs would have died of exhaustion, the
primary reason of which was the weakness arising from continual inter-
course with the bitches.
We found a surprising amount of bear traces in this vicinity and
saw no less than nine different lairs. In the case of four of the nine
lairs it was quite plain that the bear had gone into a cave in an iceberg
and allowed the entrance to be snowed up, and that it had later on broken
out through as much as four feet of snow. In two other cases it was
evident that the bear had dug down into the snow to a very considerable
depth and slept there, but in the remainder of the cases the holes were
probably dug in order to get hold of a seal, as we noticed a place just
near it, where the snow was dyed with blood.
On March 18th we had advanced as far as Carl Heger Island, where
our progress was stopped by apparently floating inlandice, which filled
up the sound between the island and the main land and all along the
coast of Edward Island. We looked down upon it from an elevation
of 175 metres and could not detect a single level spot. Farther on,
beyond this floating inlandice or — and this was more likely — icebergs
stopped on a shoal and drifted together, we detected a perfectly level
stretch of bay-ice without a single iceberg, going all the way to the
glacier front. The Inlandice was also in plain view, and there seemed
to be quite a level and smooth stretch of ice reaching from the middle
of Bredebræ towards the WNW (true). To the north and south of this
level ice, which appeared as a broad road, the ice was very rugged, full
of hummocks and intersected by crevasses.
On March 19th Laus and I went out to try to find a passable
road through this belt of icebergs, leaving the three others to bring up
the rest of our provisions. We found a road, which was if not good then
at least passable, and over which we took our stores in two turns on
March 20th.
We found a very narrow streak of good, level ice close under the
main land and made good progress over it, and on March 22nd we reached
a place just in front of the glacier, where we stopped in order to find
the best place to ascend.
We climbed a rocky point on the main land projecting into the
Inlandice, and from the height of 125 metres the conditions of the
surface of the Inlandice could be seen far toward Dronning Louise’s
Land and to the north.
We noticed a rather level stretch of Inlandice connecting Dronning
Louise’s Land with the coast, and this level ice followed the east coast
of the land as far as the northern horizon, apparently with a very small
rise. This level ice was sharply bordered on either side by extremely
rough ice, which was also intersected by cracks, and it almost had the
appearance of a broad river, winding its way between the rough ice to
the coast.
40 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
At our feet, between the land on which we stood and the Inlandice,
there was a rather large lake, which had an extent of about five miles
(Fig. 10). Its surface was perfectly level, but studded with small icebergs.
March 23rd we spent in trying to find a passable road over the
rough outer edge of the glacier, and we succeeded, but not till we had
worked through an exceedingly difficult icebelt, with hills so high and
valleys so filled with soft snow that it would be impossible to pass it
with sledges. It took us 34% hours hard walk to cover a distance of
2 miles and reach the level ice, which we had seen the day before.
By following the edge of the rough ice towards the coast we found the
place where the level ice came nearest to the bay-ice, and further on
we succeeded in finding a rather good way through the rough outer
edge and а river-course, through
March 24% men we could gain the Be
of the Inlandice with the sledges
without much trouble (Fig. 11).
On March 24th we brought the
sledges on to the Inlandice and
camped about 3 miles from its
edge on quite level ice and about
50 metres above sea-level.
At first our progress over the
Inlandice was very slow, as we had
to transport such a large weight
that it was quite out of the question
to think of moving it all at thesame
time, and so we were compelled to
resort to double-banking until April 7th, when the stores belonging
to Laus’s party were left behind. This way of travelling of course took
us a good deal of time, all the more as we did not dare to go too far from
our stores, particularly in bad weather, as we were compelled to reckon
with the possibility of being able to find them only by following our
old track. This became difficult, whenever it snowed or stormed, or
even when the snow began to drift. We used to take half our outfit
on the sledges, to travel with it as far as we dared from the stores we
had left behind, camp, and then, if time permitted, return at once for
that which was left on the ice. As a rule, however, we did not return
till the following day, when the stores were brought up to camp and
then driven so far beyond it as we could, before bad weather or dark-
ness compelled us to return to our tents. The tents were then moved
to the stores and beyond on the following day. By adopting this way
of travelling we saved considerable work, as we had only to allow time
for breaking and making camp every second day, while every other
day could be used to its full extent, weather of course permitting, to
advance our stores to the north.
Mepp. om Gront. ГГ.
Fig. 11. The place of ascent to the Inlandice.
Fig. 12. Passing small hummocky ice. **/; 1910.
Ei D :
g
MEDD. OM GRØNL. LII.
Fig. 13. Tents on small hummocky ice. ?/3 1910.
|
|
|
|
Fig. 14. Snow-bare rivercourse on the Inlandice. *°/; 1910. |
Report on the expedition. 41
The distance covered on March 25th was but small (4—5 miles), as
owing to an accident to the dogs we could only sledge a few hours.
Also the going was heavy, as it had been snowing rather much
during the preceding night, and
the ice had consequently be- March 25th
come covered with soft snow, N.
about 1/;meter deep. The rise of
HET |
the Inlandice was though even vw \ The ice apparently
rather noticeable, the total Gare El) \ gker than om
; : x rather large \The snow. course-line
rise of the day being 25 metres, incline \ hard. ~~
~
thus giving us an elevation The ie aparently, N snomhard ~~~
of 75 metres above sea-level sideradg lower \
: than on course-lire \
when camping. \
The whole of March 26th \ 50
was used to advance our stores,
half of which were left 4 miles
to the north of our tents. There had been a heavy snowfall during
the night, and the surface was covered with 4—5 inches of quite soft
snow, which hindered the sledging so much that we wished for a gale
to blow it off.
The gale came at 10 р. m., and on March 27th it was blowing violently
until 4p. m., when it suddenly calmed down and cleared off at the same time.
A gale sprang up once more during the night, but it abated in the
morning of March 28th, when at 7.10 а. т. we thought it possible to start.
The weather was quite clear, but far ahead we could see a wall of snow,
stirred up by the wind. Large clouds of snow rose over this perfectly
sharply defined wall and were all blown away to the east with great
velocity, but at a right angle to the wind along the surface, which
was northerly. The storm came оп us at 8 a.m., and we were compelled
to camp after trying to weather it out, believing it to be only a squall.
At 2p.m. the wind suddenly died down, and we were once more able
to proceed, now in fine weather.
We drove northward over quite good ice, which rose perceptibly in
large, flat hills, covered with hard snow without any sastrugi. The
layer of snow became thinner, as we advanced, and the last three miles
of the day’s travelling were along a surface, where snow-bare hummocks
rose through the snow (Fig. 12 & 13). We passed a few broad river-
courses extending N—S.
The rise of the Inlandice was 50 metres on a distance of 7 miles,
giving us a height of 125 metres above sea-level.
On March 29th we fetched up our stores and drove them beyond
the tents to the north. The weather was good, but a breeze sprang
up in the afternoon and increased to a gale before 6 p.m. It blew very
hard all night, but as the wind abated before morning, we were able
to follow up the trail of the preceding day on March 30th.
c: 3 miles
A9 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
At first the going was splendid, and we made good progress over
the hard, even snow, and this in spite of the fact that we had a steep `
rise on the first 6 miles. Then we came on to a plateau 1 mile in length,
March 30%
Rg (
Skam line of demar- N.L p
Cation, to the west of Na
which the ice is at least wT, x N
10-20 meter lower than 4
to the east of ik. 74 “
The incline notizeab The ice very rough,
А ard snowbare
073
MIR
Я И
Very graditl incline
Ÿ UK Hummocky ice
oy f À
NY
dy i
& i &
м | \ 180 k<--” - Depot advanced on March 29%
Small /ce very Aummocky
riwerbed \
Surface smooth,
Cre, srow hard.
Some snowbare
but ather Е
г 2 cce-hummocks.
SK steen vicline
li “as T
c: 3 miles ce =>
and after that to a steep hill, at least 15 metres high. Unfortunately
we got rather near to a valley traversed by a river-bed, and we had some
rough ice along its edge. Farther to the west we could see a very broad
and apparently deep river-course, which had a general NNE — SSW
direction, thus cutting our course. We came rather near it towards
the end of the day’s travelling, and saw that it was about 10 metres
broad and 5 metres deep. Its edges were very rough, and large snow-
bare hummocks, with deep soft snow in between, delayed our advance
(Fig. 14 & 15). We camped after having travelled a distance of about
14 miles, with a rise of 75 metres and 200 metres above sea-level.
We had an extensive view towards Dronning Louise’s Land from
Мерр. om Свомг. ШТ.
Fig. 15. Snow-filled rivercourse on the Inlandice. 35/3 1919.
Fig. 17. Very heavy ice just south of the depot. Note the sharp line of demarkation between the
lower ice of Dronning Louise’s Land and the regular Inlandice.
Cape Bellevue.
Mepp. om Свомг. LII. |
Fig. 16. Panorama of Dronning Louise’s Land. Taken on April 136 from 7703 N. Lat. Distance about 5 miles.
Report on the expedition. 43
our camping site, and noticed that the ice was much lower than east
of a line from our camp to Cape Bellevue. The line of demarkation was
very pronounced, as there was an almost vertical drop of about 20 metres
(Fig. 16).
March 315 was spent in camp, as it blew too hard to proceed or
even to fetch up our stores, and the wind did not calm down till 5 p. m.
too late to do any work. The weather was quite clear after the gale,
so we could see far to the north, where hill rose above hill until a
distance of about 15 miles.
April Ist we advanced our stores; the weather was quite good.
April FÅR
00
250 ФТ. 5% The surface very rough.
Watercourses E-W.
3
The surface very hummocky,
hilly and snowbare.
Hills and matercourses E-W
240 + 1159
The ice rather smooth.
Small
ircline. The ice covered,
with large stretches
of show.
10%
The ice very hummocky.
À 2%; broad riverbed
he ice very hummocky.
220
7 PAL
N
In this diary sketch, and in the following, the figures to the right of the line
indicating the route denote the hour, when the course, distance and other observations
were noted down. The meteorological data observed at these hours are recorded
in the list, pag. 71. The figures to the left of the line indicate the heights, in
metres, worked out after the return, so that they do not always correspond
with the notes in the sketch on incline and decline (see pag. 78—79) .
April 2nd. We did not leave the camp till 8 a. m. owing to different
accidents with the dogs and sledges.
44 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
At first we made rather good progress, for immediately after pas-
sing the river-course, which we followed on March 31st, we got better
and better ice, the further we got away from it. The large, snow-bare
hummocks disappeared, and the surface became rather smooth, covered
with long stretches of snow.
At 12.45, just after having passed the stores we had advanced yester-
day, we got on to some very bad ice, where we had to pass a number
of rather high but short and steep ice-ridges, parallel with each other
and extending E—W. During the summer the water flows between
these ridges in a western direction and empties out into the large lake
north of Cape Bellevue.
The ice sloped rapidly towards land. The day’s distance was 10.5
miles with a rise of 50 metres, our total elevation being thus 250 metres
above sea-level.
April Эта. The weather was very squallv, and it was not till 12.30
that we could begin our day’s work, which consisted of bringing up our:
stores and advancing them beyond our camp. The ice, however, was
very bad, and one of our sledges broke down just north of our tents,
so that we were compelled to return for repairs (Fig. 17).
April 4th. We had hoped to be able to leave our depot for our
return-journey on land, but we gave it up, as the ice seemed so very
bad towards Dronning Louise’s Land.
It was consequently left on the ice on 77°16’ М. Lat. on the top of
a high hummock, plainly marked with the wreck of one of our sledges.
The ice over which we travelled was almost bare of snow, and large
hummocks, some as high as 4—5 metres, were lying side by side. This
snow-bare ice was rather a surprise, but it is quite natural when we con-
sider the extremely boisterous character of the weather in this locality.
The wind, which is only an ordinary storm to the north of Dronning
Louise’s Land, gains in velocity when forced into the funnel-like opening
between this land and Germania Land and cuts away the snow
(Fig. 18).
The greatest undulations in the surface of the Inlandice are of
course due to the large rivers, which intersect it all over, and to the
rivulets running into them. But apart from this, there must be other
causes, as we noticed a large amount of sand and stones on the
surface of the ice, blown out from Dronning Louise’s Land. These dark
objects absorb the heat, thus causing the ice to melt around and under-
neath them, whereby holes are made, in which the melting is further
accelerated by the water. We passed an exceedingly large number of
holes and found sand or stones at their bottoms.
Passing over these hummocks it will soon become evident that they
are all longer in a N—S than an E—W direction, which is only natural,
as the prevailing northerly winds deposit a hard snowdrift to the leeward
of all hummocks or undulations (Fig. 19). These snowdrifts are late to-
"OTGT */5
“SHLIpMous 95418
T UJIA 901 зацетрай
ААЗЭН
"GL SLT
‘TIT ‘INOUO Wo ‘AGEN
Mepp. om Gront. LIL
Fig. 18. Snow-bare, windswept ice.
ee
т -
rn №
wu. 2
Fig. 20. Passing snow-bare ice-hills.
Report on the expedition. 45
melt, thus protecting the ice against the direct rays of the sun, and some
do even not melt at all durmg the summer, but being watersoaked at
the end of the summer they freeze to ice and thus form a part of the
hummocks, which in that manner get an oblong shape, the length of
which depends entirely on the height of the hummock; the higher the
hummock, the longer it becomes.
The many parallel river-courses were passed during the early half of
the day, and though the surface became a little better, it was still dif-
A pril gth |
The ice apparently
very much better
A in this direction. я
74
\ ORS /ce considerably higher
ers a towards East.
hill, which had hitherto
ENN kid our view to the north.
Reached the ton of a large
an
T.3% The surface very rough, but no deep
Depot 230 watercourses, aid some Snow.
The surface exceedingly rough.
TEE Le noe aa E-W and #-5 meters deep
The surface very rough, almost srombare
No flat stretches at all.
‘and sloping Much sand, all over the ice.
250 1 go Broad rivercourses.
wards land, =
very rough,
ficult to take the sledges across, as the dogs could not find a footing on
the quite smooth, snow-bare hummocks.
The distance was but 4 miles with a rise of c: 10 metres, making
a total elevation above sea-level of c: 260 metres.
When we camped on the top of a high hill, which had hidden our
view to the north for the last few days, we were able to see the conditions
ahead. They seemed good, but not till we had passed the ice just in
front of us — a narrow belt, intersected by river-courses, which were
running so close, that they were only divided from each other by an
ice-ridge. Further away, on the other side of this belt, a tongue of ap-
parently good ice was stretching as far as the horizon, bordered on either
side by apparently impassable ice.
46 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
April 5th was spent in camp, stormbound.
April 6th. We advanced our stores, leaving our tents standing, but
2 miles beyond our camping site the ice again became uncommonly bad,
and it was decided —- in order to get as far as possible before being obliged
to let our three comrades return — to leave all of Laus’s provisions
in the camp, and only push north with our own stores and his camping
outfit, hoping thus to be able to drive all the load in one turn.
April 7th. The ice which we had to pass was however so rough
that it was quite impossible to transport the remainder of our stores,
М. > th
April 7” N
К
Sy
iy
>
о
/
ne
=> < n = Deer watercourses
Very rough ice, Е NS == Ice exceedingly rough.
deep and broad watercourses. yo AT lee very Pia
J" " Gnsuderable amount of snow.
Very broad, /0 meter dees Wer courses.
12 Absolutely bare of snow.
The surface very rough.
u large flakes of snow.
с: 3 miles
which we had to divide and keep on double-banking, but even then we
only proceeded with great difficulty. We worked for 10% hours, and
only advanced 2 miles with half our loads (Fig. 20).
Immediately after leaving our camp we came amongst some very
high hummocks, perfectly snow-bare and smooth, consisting of such
hard ice that our iron-shod runners made no impression whatever.
The ice became worse about 11% miles north of our last camp, and we
had to pass 7 deep water-courses, divided from each other by steep,
high and glossy ridges, about 10 metres high. It was impossible to pass
all the ridges, and we had to keep off to the eastward through one of
the river-beds, thus reaching the plateau which we had seen on April 4th.
at
v
Mepp. om Свомь. LILI.
Fig. 22. Driving down into a deep rivercourse.
7/4 1910.
MEDD. om Свомг. LII.
Fig. 23. The sledges in a rivercourse. 7/4 1910.
Fig. 24. Very hilly and hummocky ice. 7/4 1910.
Report on the expedition. 47
We had deep river-courses and crevasses on either side, and the plateau
when eventually reached was but a narrow spit with a width of only
a few hundred metres, getting rapidly broader towards the north. The
surface was quite smooth and covered with snow (Fig. 21—22—23—24).
Total distance 2 miles with a rise of 50 metres; total above sea-level
310 metres.
April Sth. As usual a gale sprang up during the night, but it calmed
down towards morning, so that it was possible to send back two sledges
for the remainder of our stores, which were advanced beyond our
tents in the afternoon. Orders were made out for Глов, letters and
instructions were written, and everything was now ready for us to part
company with our comrades, as on account of lack of provisions it was
impossible for us to remain together for more than one more day.
April 9th. Again a gale blew throughout the night, but it calmed
down suddenly, and we were able to get off at 11 a.m. The going was
very good — the best we had had on the Inlandice — and we made
good progress in spite of the large rise of the surface, about 195 metres.
For a couple of miles the ice was covered with very long, narrow, but
April geh
485 OT. 5%
Surface smooth and ever, /
covered with snow. /
N Steyr ;
inclire me Very much
440 + 200 y
; N all Surface rather smooth i CRORE Katee,
iy x day and even, almost + broad crevices
| N 400 “A 1250 \ bare of snow. 5 / Ba
Very mach NX Few crevices. ,
broken ice, EX x ae | / Lower than coursline
= N ” Surface rather smooth,
broad crevices and \ à one ae
deep, watercourses. N ‚310 и vo long stretches.
т | lower thar courslire. т ~-7 |
c: 3 miles Exceedingly rough Ue.
hard and even leads of snow, but for the next 3 miles it became almost.
quite bare of snow, while the surface was studded with small hummocks,
not above one meter high (Fig. 25). Towards the end of the day’s journey
we got on to an even and smooth layer of snow, which however was
not very deep, as small hummocks projected everywhere. The splitting
of a sledge-runner compelled us to camp a little earlier than intended,
but nevertheless we made a progress of about 9 miles and managed
48 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
to haul all our outfit at one time. Rise above last camp 175 metres,
with a total above sea-level of 485 metres. |
April 10th. The weather was fine, but our sledges needed re-
lashing, and we had so much work to do in order to get everything into
shape — from now onward we would only have ourselves to rely on
— that we decided to remain in camp. Our comrades left us at 10 a. т.
driving southward (Fig. 26).
April 11th and 12th were spent in camp, travelling being quite im-
possible on account of a violent northern gale.
April 13th. The gale did not abate till 12.20, when it calmed down
in less than half an hour, thus permitting us to start. The condition of
the surface became better, the further we advanced, and the hummocks
April 3%
; ( | \
Nan | |
N \ \ \ \ \ + \ | Ni
I à у Valley iv | | \
\ er
Ae eae ae Gy 550 QT. 6% The surtace pertectly covered
100-150 meters Steep ircline
hes (with hard and smooth snow.
SEN
Large snowrields.
yo //
Large snowdrifts mith
(few hıunmocks.
3° Small icehwrrnocks mith
large srowdritts ir between.
Quite narrow crevices.
\ sem | Г 545
| \ wwrse., Gradual incline.
1 te N SE ESS 525
Ir m Gradual dine.
— =” £ å
48572 200
Se 1 nl )
с: 3 miles
disappeared entirely а few miles north of the camp. The rise of the
ice was very noticeable, but we could nevertheless take all our stores
at one time and even made rather good progress.
The weather only remained fine for less than an hour; then a wind
sprang up again, and it increased continually, until a gale blew from
NW compelling us to camp after 4 hours sledging, during which period
we had advanced 5,8 miles with a rise of 65 metres. Total above sea-
level 550 metres.
April 14th. A gale blew again all night, and a short lull at 10 a. т.
only lasted 14 hour, after which it blew harder than ever until 2 р. m.
when it suddenly calmed down, and we managed to get off in the teeth
of a still very fresh wind. The going was very good all day, and we
made rather good progress over a slowly rising surface covered with
snow, which was only now and then broken by small hummocks. For
the first two or three miles we had to pass some crevasses, but once
past these, the ice appeared unbroken.
‘OLGL WIOT [dy чо uoryeredos Jo dues oY} TOIT uoye) ри SOSIHO'T SuruuoIg Jo vurvtourd “9% “BLL
"ПТ ‘тхочю KO ‘AAA
MEDD. om GRØNL. LII.
Fig. 27. The valleys through which the water is drained. 1/4 1910.
Report on the expedition. 49
Just to the west of us we had a very deep hollow extending over
3—4 miles and at least 100—150 metres below our level. The ice rose
steeply from this hollow, particularly to the west, where it had an eleva-
tion of 200—300 metres above the bottom of the valley, which was
very much broken up. The ice was seen above the western end of Ymer’s
Nunatak and was also higher east of our course — we were thus driving
on the east side of the hollow. Travelled distance 9 miles with a rise
of 125 metres above last camp. Total above sea-level 675 metres.
Kr RER
о / We A
N) . } / ARE dire
SE), р. т > Sledge fell in crevue.
ES
N & ee _ 740 el. 88 Quite flat and snowcovered. surface
$] / En, broken up in broad crevices.
G Ÿ Ve / № ELG >. 7 SS РЕ
$ he Fa i / BE Broad crevices.
$ : / © 7 ery SEL | TE Surface bare of snow
$ / ; 730356”
As / # de
RR // ) / us Ve 7 Ice rough and almost snombare.
$) Е г. AS en - Hummocky
y ri
с. 20 meter heigh hills across our
course. Snow hard uphill, softer dow.
es.
—E se
ae
u
ke tor ery
=
Ice. rather rough and comparatively
deep valleys ts passed .
ES |
Surface almost, covered with snow.
Lede
—
—
>—
Sa
Surface almost snowbare
——
=
SKÆGT
LL
Slee Crcline, i c: 3 miles
| April 15th. As usual a gale blew during the night, and it was not
possible to start before 11.30a.m., when it still blew with a strength
of 8 metres a second.
| The going was not nearly as good as on the two preceding days,
as we had to pass hill after hill, divided by deep valleys extending E-W,
through which the water was drained from the high and long hill
west of our course (Fig. 27).
We had until now kept off this hill, as its surface appeared too
broken to climb, and large and very broad crevasses were visible on
its top, but finding a place where it seemed less broken than hitherto
we decided to risk the attempt. The ascent was very steep, and the
LIT. 4
50 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
ice being quite bare of snow it was difficult for the dogs to find a footing,
but we succeeded in reaching a plateau, which appeared quite level,
solid and perfectly covered with snow.
It was, however, intersected by broad cracks, and one of our sledges
fell down, but it jammed so that we could crawl on to it and bring the
cargo into safety on the solid ice before taking the sledge out (Fig. 28).
Everywhere we were hemmed in with crevasses, which compelled us to
camp and look for a safe road.
The crevasse into which the sledge fell had a width of about 3 metres.
Its sides were perfectly smooth, and it extended so far down as we could
see. The edges were very sharp and absolutely untouched by melting
water or the rays of the sun, so the crevasse must have been formed
since last summer.
We covered a distance of 10,5 miles and were 65 metres above
our last camp. Total above sea-level 740 metres.
April 16th. A violent NW gale compelled us to remain in camp
all day.
April 17th. The gale calmed down during the night (at 3 а. m.).
and we were able to start at 5.30. We reached the extreme top of the
hill without any accidents, but we could see that the ice was intersected
by crevasses, hidden under the snow, but still visible on its surface, as
the snow lying over a crevasse has a somewhat darker colour than that
lying on solid ice, and is further marked by a slight sinking in the middle,
thus appearing as a long, rather sharply marked path on the surface of
the snow.
The top of this hill was so far our highest altitude (730 metres),
and we had an extensive view from it, still bemg able to see Dronning
Louise’s Land — rather below us — and away to the north a very high
conical peak, Moltke’s Nunatak (named after Count Cart MOLKTE, member
of Garde’s expedition on the southern ice-cape in 1893); as well as other
tops, Garde’s Nunatak (named after T. V. GARDE, Captain R. D. N. who
amongst other achievements in Greenland commanded an expedition on
the most southerly part of the Inlandice during the spring of 1893),
all of which project out of the ice. Nearer at hand we saw some
lower nunataks, Bildsoe’s Nunataks (named after J. A. D. JENSEN-BILD-
SØE, who was the first to carry on systematic investigations on the In-
landice). They were all lying on a line almost N—S and were apparently
the extreme tops of a mountain ridge, connecting the high Moltke’s
Nunataks with Dronning Louise’s Land. This ridge was visible all the
way, either directly — the land itself — or indirectly — the large ice-hill
stretching N—S, along which we have been travelling of late. The ice
plainly bore evidence of being as it were a thin layer pushed over a
mountain ridge, which caused this icelayer to be very hilly, nearly
following the contours of the mountain tops underneath.
Mepp. om Свомь. LII.
Fig. 28. Snowbridge spanning a crevice broken down under the weight of sledges,
Fig. 29. Small lakes between the ice-hills. 22/4 1910.
Mepp. om Свомг. LII.
Fig. 30. Using sail on a sledge while driving on level ice
off Bildsoe’s Nunataks.
Vig. 31. The beginning of a deep watercourse off Bildsoe’s Nunataks.
25/4 1910.
rs
Report on the expedition. 51
A few of the lowest nunataks to the north were partly hidden by
inlandice, floating half way across them from the westward, while their
eastern side was quite steep and rose almost perpendicularly from the
ice. These Bildsoe’s Nunataks appeared thus to be the bulwark against
the main Inlandice, to the west of them. The height of the cliff facing
east was estimated at least 200—250 metres.
The Inlandice viewed from our present place of observation then
appeared like this:
The level plateau, which we reached on April 15th, and on which
half covered with ice.
The ice 200 Meter lower east than
west of the nunatak.
AS
ae, / | | At
|
/ / |
и | /
/ 910 Т. 259 ‚Surface gate snowbære
HET! SEL } i
ей 1239 Surface quite snowbare
steen силе 785 e quite covered. with snow
Alabama Nunatak about
40т, above ice level.
Land visible towards the North.
А Louises Land visible.
| 740 1 530
Lake, I mile broad, extending © ae <
southward, as far as visible and ends ie See
a little М. of the course in a big
Km ln)
crepice . Large pressureridges on SE. 2 Smilies
border of the lake.
we stood continued to the north, with small or practically no rise, but
fell off a little to the west, ending in a long and narrow lake extending
along the foot of the ice-ridge, from where the ice rose steeply to a height
of about 150 metres above the lake. The downward slope facing west
was covered with snow, while the upward slope beyond the lake was
quite smooth and bare of snow. There seemed to be no cracks in the
surface of the hill.
Being desirous of passing this high ridge, and the place being favo-
rable, we set off to the NW (true) and reached the lake after a rapid
downward drive. It was covered with glare-ice and about 1 mile broad,
4*
52 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
and terminated about 2 miles to the north, ending in a very broad cre-
vasse, but extending as far as we could see to the south. We passed
a very large pressure-ridge, stretching all the way along the eastern
bank of this lake and consisting of ice, which was 50—75 cm thick.
Judging from the amount of ice piled up in this pressure-ridge an area
of no less than 100—150 metres must have been crushed.
This seems to be plain evidence of the fact that the ice has a
rather rapid motion to the west of these Bildsge’s Nunataks, at least аз
compared with the motion of the ice east of them, as no pressure-ridges
like the one described could be formed by any other cause than by
the lake being compressed along its longitudinal axis.
This rapid motion of the ice was most evident in this place, but
it was also indicated in a large part of the area, which we had traversed,
as we did not see a single crevasse with rounded-off edges, which is suffi-
cient proof that they must all have been formed since last summer, as
the edges would otherwise have been rounded off.
The hill rose steeply from the surface of the lake and proved very
hard to climb, as the ice was quite smooth, glassy and bare of snow.
A strong wind was also blowing right down over the crest of the hill,
and it increased as we approached the top, until it was impossible to
proceed, as the wind had a strength of 11—12 metres a second, against
which the dogs could not haul the sledge.
About half way up the hill we passed what was either a large collec-
tion of very big stones or the extreme top of a nunatak. The stones
were lying so close that it was difficult to find a way between them,
but they did not rise much above the surrounding ice-level. The area
in question was 1 mile long and % mile broad and quite studded with
these large stones.
Distance travelled 7.2 miles and the camp 170 metres above our
last camping-site. Total above sea-level 910 metres. Long. at ба. т.
24°11’ W. Bearings taken to all visible pomts and tops, as well as to
Cape Bellevue.
April 18th, 19th, 20th and 21st.
There was a constant gale from NNW (true) with a velocity ranging
from 15—30 metres a second. It was also snowing heavily during the
last two days. The barometer was steady on the 18th, reading 674.5 mm,
but it rose on the 19th to 678.5 mm and fell again on the 20th to 674.0 mm
and still further on the 21st, when it reached 672.5 mm. It appears
that the wind increased with rising, and abated with falling barometer.
Temperature ranging from — 20° to + 26°.
April 22nd. The gale did not abate so much that travelling became
possible before 9 а. т.
The ice was perfectly bare of snow on the first few miles, and we
passed a number of long, flat hills with an average height of about 15
metres. Small lakes covered with glare-ice were seen or passed every-
Report on the expedition. 53
where between these hills (Fig. 29). The rise of the Inlandice was very
noticeable in this part of the road, and as long as it rose rather steeply,
the ice was bare of snow, but when later on we came to a stretch where
the ice had a smaller incline, we found that the surface became covered
with snow, which increased in thickness as well as in hardness and
covered the ice entirely towards the end of the day’s travelling.
This layer of snow was of rather a peculiar kind. Its surface was
quite smooth with not even the slighetst signs of snow-waves, and it
was so hard that a dog could barely get a footing on it. When rubbing
the hand over the surface it felt quite rough, and the snow-particles
were hard and quite angular. The sledges hauled very heavily on it,
and almost 1 mm was worn off the underside of the wooden runners with
. nd Le
April 22 nr
7 )
stee/v Å covered/ with hard ‘snow
1030 1209 if ) 4 Я, )
@ ARE Considerably more ‘snow on Wwe.
vi 1010 À ue / / у eae
n NS DE [ large hills af Du deep | valleys with, small lakes
/ / N ‚N Ut Beton г bare) of" ae and very slipry.
A f )
4 N 98! | |
/ À j ” / ] ) j
Pa TE) ee er ee
с: 3 miles
one day’s travelling. Even the claws of the dogs got worn off, and one
dog became useless, as he could not keep his foothold on the snow.
Two of our dogs died towards the end of the day from sheer weak-
ness, and all the rest were more or less exhausted, probably owing to
bemg exposed to the gale for four days running.
Two rather long, flat nunataks, Laub’s Nunataks — named after
Lieut. W. Глов, В. D. N., who was the second-in-command of the expe-
dition, and who commanded the party to the west coast of Dronning
Louise’s Land — were seen far away to the East, almost half way between
the coastland and our course.
The distance travelled was but 3.8 miles with a rise of 110 metres
above our last camp. Total above sea-level 1020 metres. Latitude at
noon 77°581. Camp М. Lat. 78°02’. W. Long. 24°20’.
April 23rd. As usual there was a very strong wind during the
night, but towards morning it abated, and travelling was possible from
54 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
7.30 a.m. But shortly afterwards the wind increased and compelled
us to camp at 1 p.m., when it had once more a velocity of 12 metres
a second.
The Inlandice rose only very little on the distance travelled to-day,
but we had nevertheless to pass some rather high and steep hills, which
N were lying vertically
April 234 on our course. The
snow was the same as
yesterday, hard and
granulated as fine
Fassed several steen hulls. The surface | sandpaper, but evenin
1045 4 10% } covered with perfectly smooth, hard
1050 @T. 1%
1045 $ 12%
small и Sash spite of this it was 50
incline 1040 À 8% LEE shppery that neither
1020 À 7% ae men nor dogs could
с: 3 miles get a secure footing
when on the slightest
grade. The snow was so hard that we had to use an axe to make holes
for the tentpoles, as our ironspade could make no impression whatso-
ever upon it.
An additional cause for our slow sledging was the great resistance
which our bulky sledgeloads offered against the wind, which was blow-
ing almost permanently and nearly right against us and was wearing
out the strength of the dogs to no purpose whatsoever.
The extreme tops of Garde’s and Molkte’s Nunataks, which on April
17th we saw to the
north were visible for April 25%
a short time on a NE STEENS DEDE
bearing. visible iv ENE.
The distance made
was but 3 miles with
30 metres rise. Total
above sea-level: 1050
metres.
April 24th. A gale
from NW compelled
us to remain in camp
all day.
April 251. It
blew 25 metres a se-
cond at 4 a. m., and
when we began to
work at 9 а. m., the strength of the wind was still 13 metres. For-
tunately the wind of late had a tendency to haul more to the west,
and to-day we were for the first time able to use a sail on one of our
sledges (Fig. 30).
Report on the expedition. 55
The Inlandice rose evenly all day in long, quite flat hills, covered
with perfectly smooth and very hard snow, which however was not so
granular as on the preceding days. We consequently made much better
progress, helped exceedingly by the wind, which blew from the west
during the greater part of the day.
The Bildsøe's Nunataks were visible to the east all day, and save
the southermost ones they rose above the Inlandice in rounded hills,
but none of them were of great height, and they did not exceed
100—150 metres.
Made a distance of 6.2 miles with a fall af 48 metres. Total ele-
vation above sea-level 1002 metres.
April 26th. A gale blew with heavy snowfall during the whole of
the night and the greater part of the day, and we could not get off before
April 26%
1040 oT. 12° Ми, 2
4
1030 1% covered. with sie 24 4 |
ne ee Ml
о
1030 19% 10 | (em —
= mr 2
gradual N № >
алое Ах ее
1025 \ 7 ON 29 CREE -
gradual inclere Snow! very hard N aS
oz Gps N NU
} и
с: 3 miles
6p.m. The going was rather hard owing to the large amount of soft
snow which had fallen during the gale, and which had not yet blown
off the ice.
The surface rose quite evenly for 3 miles; after that we drove down
hill, but the slope was so small that it did not facilitate our sledging
at all.
On the extreme top of the hill we noticed a very broad and sharply
marked crevasse or valley just east of our course, extending in an easterly
direction towards an opening between two nunataks. This valley must
probably be a place through which the water is drained from this locality.
(Fig. 31).
We made about 4.2 miles with a rise of 38 metres. Total elevation
above sea-level 1040 metres.
April 27th. There was a wind as usual, but not so strong as to
make sledging impossible, particularly as the wind was WNW, which
allowed us to use a sail on one of the sledges.
56 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
The surface of the ice was quite even, and we practically passed
no hills at all (Fig. 32). The snow was soft and rather deep, but it was
covered with a hard, windblown crust, which could bear the dogs but
not the sledges. All in
April 21 all we made а compara-
Gardes sydl. Nunatak tively good progress of
6.2 miles with a fall of
1020 © T. 92pm. 20 metres. Total above
sea-level 1020 metres.
K The utmost tops of
1030 the high land of the
Very Gian rate ee BLE Garde’s and Moltke’s
graduaL covered, with a hard crust. Nunataks became visible
incline ie he ed at 2.30 pm., but it was
1040 Е
en to the North. not till we reached our
camping-place on 78°20’
I 955 230 N Lat. that the land
could be seen to its full
00 extent, about 10—12
RER Büdsöes miles distant.
nordl. Nunatak, April 28th. There
с: 3 miles was a wind from the W
blowing with a strength
of 10 metres a second when we left camp at 10.45, but it abated and
calmed quite down before the end of the day’s travelling.
At first the surface was very hilly, and we went so far down between
the ice-hills that the high land rather close at hand became invisible.
The hills became higher and steeper, the further we advanced, and
whenever we reached the crest of a hill we could see an ice-dome straight
ahead, with a diameter of about 3 miles and rising above the surround-
ing ice to the height of 75—100 metres. This dome we could also
see yesterday, when its top appeared very much broken, but this did
not seem to be the case to-day.
The ice was, however, very much broken up, and the first crevasses
were passed at 1.30 p.m. From then and until we camped at 9 p.m.,
we had one crevasse after another.
The crevasses radiated from the top of the ice-dome, where — owing
to the lack of snow — they were quite visible. They became however
hidden by snow half way down the side of the dome, but nevertheless they
could usually be located at the place where we were, as they were always
quite straight, and we had no need to be careful, before we had driven
so far that the snow-bare crevasse on the top of the ice-dome could be
seen from the end.
Another set of crevasses was encircling the ice-dome and cutting
Fig. 32. Level Inlandice with Moltke’s and Garde’s Nunataks, 27/4 1910.
MEDD. om GRØNL. LII.
Fig. 35. The place of descent from the Inlandice.
Report on the expedition. 57
the rays at right angles. The Inlandice was thus cut up in almost rect-
angular blocks, which were difficult to pass, as we had no indication
of these encircling crevasses, beyond the slight sinking of the layer of
snow above them. The snow-bridges over these crevasses — on a average
2—3 metres broad — were very variable in thickness, ranging from at
least № metre to 10cm. The crevasses were plainly visible in the latter
case, as the layer of snow sinks about 15—20 cm. towards the middle.
Upon rather close investigation a thin crack will be noticed in the snow,
just over the edge of the ice, and the whole layer of snow may even
Moltkes Nunatak, (=
April 283 н.
Very many and broad crevices
extends around and from the ton of hill.
Surface very hilly, and intersected
by smaller crevices .
have sunk a few millimetres down into the crevasse, which in such cases
is seen quite plainly.
We could not proceed along our course on account of these numerous
crevasses, and we had to sheer off to the west, taking care to avoid,
as far as possible, the crossing of the larger crevasses. The snow-bridges
broke down repeatedly, and the shortest of our two sledges fell two
or three times into a crevasse, but fortunately it got jammed, and so
we were able to save it. However, we lost one dog on an occasion when
the trace snapped.
The ice became a little better towards night, when we camped
almost due W of the ice-dome, which was the southermost of three iden-
58 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
tical domes. Reached at 5 p.m. the altitude of 1092 metres, the highest
altitude on our journey.
The distance travelled was 6.7 miles. Obs. 78°24’ N. Lat., 24°34’
W. Long. After we had reached the altitude of 1092 metres, we descended
so rapidly that we camped in the same altitude as yesterday (1020 metres
above sea-level) (Pl. VI).
April 29th. For once the weather was calm, when we left camp,
but shortly afterwards a wind sprang up from NW, increasing during
the day.
We headed a little more westerly than usual, thus hoping to get
away from the three ice-domes from which the crevasses originated, and
April 29%
P 970 © T.3® ne
Snow smooth and hard.
lune acts A NE=SW.
0
butgonly 30 Em on
os
7 Many 61 road use
N IE 7 |
CS и VA
after 31, hours’ work we succeeded in getting beyond the reach of the
crevasses, having met with no accidents whatsoever.
The crevasses became broader, the further we got away from the
domes, and we passed some, which were 8—10 metres wide, but the snow
spanning them was thick and quite safe. The snow-bridges over these
-
Report on the expedition. 59
broad crevasses would sink as much as half a meter towards the
middle, and we saw one instance where for a considerable length
the whole mass had sunk down a little more than % meter without
breaking.
Only the crevasses extending from the tops of the domes and out-
ward were broad, while those parallel with the domes were quite narrow
and hardly ever exceeded % meter in width.
When looking back on the domes from NW and NNW we noticed
what appeared the extreme top of a mountain, barely projecting through
the ice on the very tops of the two southermost ice-domes, while no
rock whatsoever was visible,
when we saw the domes from
the south or west.
The ice apparently be- 320
came quite level beyond the
above-mentioned crevasses,
but it was exceedingly difficult, 905
and in most cases quite im-
possible to detect a level or
declining surface with the eye
only. The surface was entirely
covered with a thick, hard
and smooth layer of snow.
The distance travelled was 360
145 miles with a fall of 50
May ke
T. 7%
---- Saw land. ahead..
Snow smooth but
500
fot very hard.
some cracks from NE.-SW.
“uses Land. disappeared to the South.
metres. Total elevation above
sea-level 970 metres.
April 30th. A gale from
NNW kept us in camp all day.
May Ist. All day a wind
was blowing from NW and
WNW with a velocity ranging
from 2—8 metres a second.
The surface of the In-
landice was exceedingly good
for sledging, as it rose and
fell in very long, quite flat
hills, with a span of about
2 miles from top to top.
Towards the middle of
the day we passed a number
some cracks from NE- SW.
Snowlayers
thickness not
exeeding ZZ
=
Fassed one very long hill .
Surface covered. by a smooth
but not hard, snowlayer.
р EEE, |
= с: 3 miles
of narrow crevasses ranging from 5—50 cm, all parallel and extending
NE—SW.
The layer of snow was on the whole not thick and only measured
60 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
about 50cm. over the crevasses, where we sometimes broke through.
The snow was not very hard, but quite smooth.
Bildsoe’s Nunataks disappeared below the southern horizon at 2p.m.,
and the extreme tops of mountains far to the north became visible at
6 p.m.
During the last few days there had been a strong indication of a
large tract of land far to the west, but only in one case we thought that
we could see a long, low and quite dark streak on the western horizon,
where large masses of cumulus clouds have been hanging in a sharply
defined place, just as over the highest mountain-peak.
Made a distance of 16.8 miles with a decline of 50 metres. Total
elevation above sea-level 920 metres.
May 2nd, was spent in camp, as a violent gale had sprung up from
NW, with a velocity ranging from 30—10 metres a second.
May 3rd. The NW gale which blew all yesterday and throughout
the night abated in the morning, and later in the day it became quite
calm — the first really calm day we had had on the Inlandice.
The surface was slightly undulating, and on the whole it was
difficult to feel whether we were going up or down, but all day
long we thought that there was a very small gradual rise. This may
however have been an optical delusion as — whenever the surface is
level — it always seems, as if the sledges are driving along the bottom
of a very shallow indentation in the Inlandice. This optical delusion
is caused by the refraction, which raises the horizon, but even in cases
where the visible land is not distorted by refraction, it seems as if the
horizon is lifted. The ice was here and there broken up by crevasses,
which however were narrow and not at all dangerous. The layer
of snow was quite smooth and hard, offering a splendid sledging
surface.
On this day we noticed for the first time a slight breaking and con-
sequent sinking of a rather large snow-crust. It gave a peculiar rustling
sound, when this breaking took place, and the snow-crystals glittered
very much, when they changed position. This sinking of the surface
has been noticed by Scorr while on the antarctic barrier during his first
expedition, and I myself have seen it on large drifting floes with a
level surface. It is caused by the hard snowcrust breaking under the
weight of the sledges, and sinking a little it compresses the loose snow
underneath. The depth to which the hard surface-layer sinks depends
on the amount of loose snow underneath and its consistency — viz:
the deeper and looser the snow, the deeper the sinking, which can amount
to a couple of centimetres. The area thus sinking has often a large
extent, but it is impossible to form an idea as to its size.
Saw again Molkte’s and Garde’s Nunataks to the south at
2.30 p.m.
When we camped after 101% hours’ continuous sledging, we had to
Report on the expedition. 61
kill the dog, which had had its claws worn off on April 23th, and which
had not since been able to do much work.
Travelled a distance of 18.7 miles with 10 metres decline. Total
elevation above sea-level 910 metres.
N
Icedome from which NS
May 3 ig |
- . {
crevices radiated. | SN
Also circular crentæs.
ae
310 ~ 10% : N
Br НИЙ A /
FE ZA = \/ хх
gradual but De Le À ~ å
Z Z 4 |
900 À 85 4 4 SES
, r . /
very small incline: Snow smooth. and hard. Å I
890
gradually but ayyrarently Snow smooth and hard
: Æ >
very small decline. ” Hans narrom cracks .
ke
1 905
М.
gradually but appar.
very small incline .
у
905
7 Snow smooth and hard .
en Saw the land to the South again.
920 1%
NE Undulating surface
N Very many narrow cracks from NNW.- SSE.
N Snow quite smooth and hard.
NI
о
N
Bs
N
с: 3 miles
May 4th. At first the weather was splendid, calm and clear,
but it was only a short while before once more a wind sprang up
from NW.
The surface was apparently almost quite level, and to-day as well
as yesterday it was difficult to determine by feeling or sight, whether
there was a decline or a incline in the ice ahead, but there must have
been a slight incline, as at 1.30 p.m. we reached the top of a long hill,
from where we could see all of the land to the north, the extreme tops.
62 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
of which we had seen on May Ist, as well as Lambert’s Land to the
east and the highest peaks of the nunataks far to the south.
The ice was broken up by broad crevasses for a stretch of about
2 miles, just before we reached the top of the above-mentioned hill,
but it was apparently quite solid before as well as after this stretch,
M ay uth 880? т 7%
very small incline
N.
930 500
very small incline Snow hard.
930 ye
apparently quite level
Surface smooth, and
cowered with hard snow,
Ska JY ibs
Many and rather broad crevices .
___ fassed а hill, after whic Lamberts-land and
land to the North became visible .
“12-128
and it was entirely covered with snow, which was quite smooth and
rather hard. We made good progress and had covered 14.2 miles
with a fall of 30 metres, when we camped after 10 hours’ sledging.
Total elevation above sea-level 880 metres. Took observations and
bearings to all visible points. Lat. 79°27'4 N. Long. 26°09’ W. at
camp. (Pl. VI).
May 5th and May 6th were spent in camp, as there was a wind from
NNW, which made it impossible to travel. The wind was squally and
ranged from 10—30 metres a second.
May 7th. The gale abated during the night, and we were able to
start at 6.15 a.m. against a fresh NNW wind, blowing with a velocity
of 10—14 metres a second.
The ice seemed perfectly solid all day, and for the first time we
noticed a decided decline of the surface, which was as a rule quite flat,
although we passed some very long and flat hills, which hid the high
Report on the expedition. 63
land to the east from our view. Saw the land around the bottom of
Danmark’s Fjord at 4.30 p.m.
The layer of snow covering the ice has been rather peculiar since
passing the divide between Garde’s and Molkte’s Nunataks and Lam-
May zu
855 530
small decline
865 -Å 439 ---- Land seer to the North.
small decline
880 À 2% ---- Yolms land disappears, save the highest. peaks.
Watershed. apparently passed
Snow
880 À 124
a little
softer.
N.
880 ies
fassed a very long but flat hill.
Snow smooth and hard.
880 920
Surface quite smooth but
with small incline .
Surface, quite smooth.
tt and ently level.
Be, TJENERE
8802 \ 65
bert’s Land. It was much softer north than south of the divide, but
long streaks of hard, level and quite smooth snow, separated from each
other by soft snow, facilitated our sledging. These streaks were plainly
visible when looking over the surface from the top of the sledgeloads,
64 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
and some of them had a length of almost a couple of miles and were
10—15 metres broad. The edges of these hard snowstreaks were sharply
defined and quite straight, so that the streaks had the same marked
appearance as a road through a field.
We made a distance of 19.2 miles with 25 metres decline. Total
elevation above sea-level 855 metres.
The strength of our dogs had failed considerably of late, in spite
of the fact that we gave them a daily ration of a little more than half
a kilo of pemmican. They were all very listless, panted very much
with the slightest exertion, and could hardly even rouse themselves to
take an interest in their food. We too were very shortwinded and got
out of breath even with so small an exertion as to whip a dog; also
we had headaches and did not feel at all well. The altitude in which
we have been of late might of course account for some of this, but it
did not seem enough to explain the general weakness of men as well
аз dogs.
May Sth. The weather was comparatively fine all day; at first it
was calm, but in the afternoon a westerly wind sprang up, increasing
as the day wore on, and at the same time hauling more to the SW.
There was a decided decline all day, and the surface being quite
smooth and covered with a rather hard layer of snow, we made good
progress, the best so far while on the Inlandice. All day we had the
above-mentioned long, parrallel streaks of hard snow, and we noticed
no crevasses at all in the ice.
We could see a long 200—300 metres high ice-ridge about 10 miles
to the west of our course, almost parrallel with it and extending, as far
as we could see, all the way to the land around the bottom of the Dan-
mark’s Fjord. The side of the hill seemed very steep, but its top, being
our horizon was quite level and apparently not broken up by crevasses,
as was the case with the similar ice-ridges to the north of Dronning
Louise’s Land.
There was a very great refraction all day, which disturbed the
appearance of the land so much that it was impossible to determine
its outlines even at rather close quarters, and it was not till about 6 p. т.
that it became possible to see anything plainly and to take an observation.
Covered a distance of 18.7 miles with a decline of 55 metres. Total
elevation above sea-level 800 metres.
May 9th. There was rather a strong wind from the west all day
long, but we were able to travel, as the temperature had risen much,
since we began to be nearer land. A latitude was taken before leaving
camp, and it gave our position as Lat. 80°04’8 №. Long. 26°51’ W.
(РУП:
The decline was very marked, and we made good progress, parti-
cularly as the sail could now be used. The snow was a little softer to-day
than it had been for some time, and the hard streaks or roads had entirely
Report on the expedition. 65
disappeared, while at the same time the layer of snow had decreased
in thickness. About 7 miles north of the camp where we reached the
beginning of the steep slope towards land, we once more encountered
ice-hummocks projecting through the snow.
We made a halt at 4.30, as we were apparently quite close to land
and wanted to havea good view of the conditions, before we continued
down the rather steep grade, from where it would be difficult to haul
up the sledges.
To the east there was what looked like a nunatak or possibly the
southermost spur of the not ice-covered land, which extended towards
the west, cutting our
course and separating
us from the Inlandice
to the north of it,
until it disappeared
under the ice about
NW from our place
of observation. This
tract of land had just
north of us a breadth
of 10 miles, and the
Inlandice fell very
rapidly towards it.
The northern edge of
the land was fenced
in bya vertical glacier-
front.
The Inlandice was
again seen beyond
this tract of land,
which appeared as
an immense valley,
and it extended so
far towards the NW as we could see, and rose to a considerable
height, partly covering tle west side of Iversen’s Nunatak. The ice-
ridge, mentioned yesterday, was the beginning of the steep rise of the
Inlandice, and it ended almost due west of our course. Its side, visible
for a long distance, was quite smooth, absolutely bare of snow and
void of crevasses.
As it seemed rather risky to attempt to cross Amdrup’s Højland
(named after Captain С. С. Amprup В. D. N. member of the committee
and my first commander on Arctic expeditions) to the bottom of
Danmark’s Fjord — about 25 miles of unknown land, where we might
meet very large, snowbare tracts, which we could not pass with our
sledges — we thought it prudent to continue sledging on the Inlandice
LIT. 5
G: 3 miles
66 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
towards the NNW, thus coming closer to the Fyen’s Lake discovered by
Myrius-ERICHSEN. Consequently we headed this way, but in a short
while we stopped, compelled to do so by a violent storm from west
which began suddenly, just at the foot of the steep ice-hill.
We camped at once, and from our rather elevated position we saw
what appeared as a lake or local glacier winding its way in between
the mountains to NNE, until at a distance of about 15 miles it turned
more to the north, possibly even NW and disappeared behind a steep
mountain-spur.
We thought it certain that the immense amounts of water, which
must be drained from this large area of ice during the summer, would
pour into the lake at our feet, which in this case must have an outlet
to Danmark’s Fjord, and over which we would thus be able to sledge
all the way without danger of encountering snow-bare land. Our only
doubt was that what appeared a lake might be a local glacier, which
did not connect the land beneath us with Danmark’s Fjord, If this should
be the case the attempt to reach the fjord would fail, and we decided
to investigate before going further, particularly as we seemed to see
crevasses all over the white surface.
Made a distance of 8 miles with a decline of 100 metres. Total
elevation above sea-level 700 metres.
May 10th. The gale increased in velocity during the night, and
it blew harder than it had ever done while we were on the Inlandice,
but it abated somewhat before morning, allowing us to walk to the
edge of the ice in order to find out, whether the white expanse was a
lake or not.
It proved to be a lake, and we followed the edge of the Inlandice
for about 8 miles towards the east, looking for a place where descent
was possible, but without success, as the glacier-front had a height of
about 30 metres. The Inlandice in the neighbourhood of the edge rose
and fell in hills following the undulations of the land underneath, and
it was very much split up (Fig. 33).
We had decided not to waste more time in this locality, but an
accident with our dogs compelled us to remain one more day, and this
day, May 11th, was spent in exploring the edge of the Inlandice at a
point further to the west than yesterday. Here we fortunately found
a place, where a large snow-bank reached from the land halfway up the
glacier-front, and it was possible to lower our sledges on to this snowbank
through a narrow and winding crack, cut into the very edge by water-
courses during the summer.
The Inlandice sloped rapidly from our camp towards the land, and
the surface was quite bare of snow and covered with large hummocks,
which were so smooth and slippery that it was almost impossible to
stand on them.
The immense amount of water, which every summer floats over the
Report on the expedition. 67
edge of the ice, had broken it up into many and deep courses, which
increased in depth when nearing the edge, while becoming at the same
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time more narrow than further away from the edge. The ice in the
vieinity of the edge was also broken up in rather broad fissures extending
all the way through the ice to the land underneath, which was seen
in a couple of places.
5*
68 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
May 12th. We left the camp with all our outfit, and in a short
time we reached the place where we hoped to descend to the land, after
having travelled a distance of 6 miles with a decline of 550 metres (Fig. 34).
It was very difficult to maneouvre the sledges on this perfectly smooth
ice-slope, where not even the dogs could find a foothold, but we reached
the river-course, through which we hoped to get down to the snow-bank,
without any serious accident, though it took us 9 hours’ work to cover
a distance of 1.5 miles with both our sledges.
The snow-bank was very hard, and we were compelled to cut steps
into it to get a secure footing, after which our sledges were slowly lowered
down the slope, which had a length of about 300 metres, and so at last,
on Мау 13th at 5.30 a. m. our sledges had once more come down from
the Inlandice and were standing in a height of about 40 metres above
the level of the sea.
The face of the Inlandice when viewed from the land was perfectly
steep and very much broken up (Fig. 35), while a very large amount
of broken ice was lying at its foot. These pieces of ice were too angular
to have been broken off before last summer, as the sun and water would
then have rounded their edges, and they must consequently all have
fallen down during the autumn and winter, thus showing that the glacier
is in rather rapid motion.
The Fyen’s Lake.
Journey from May 14th to May 18th 1910.
We had expected to find a very desolate country, when we came down
from the Inlandice, but we were agreeably surprised to find a vegetation
so luxuriant that we had seen nothing like it north of Danmark’s Havn.
Large tracts were covered by a layer of moss, so thick that it felt
quite elastic under our feet, and furthermore we noticed several kinds
of grasses, some of which had a length of 30cm. and covered areas so
large, that they gave the impression of fields. Not only the valleys
but also the slopes of the hills were quite covered with vegetation, moss,
grass, heather and willows, the trunks of which were as thick as a thumb
and a decimeter high.
A large number of animals found their means of existence on this
luxuriant vegetation, and the first traces of animal life we found only
25 metres from the foot of the snow-bank, over which we came down.
These traces were of hares, the excrements of which were strewn
all over the ground, and so many of these animals had passed round
a very large boulder that a regular path had been worn in the grass
and moss.
We also saw very many excrements and footprints of musk-oxen
and shortly afterwards the animals themselves.
Of ptarmigan we saw hardly any traces, but we saw exceedingly
many tracks of foxes and a few of wolves.
Mepp. om GRØNL. Г.
rn
Fig. 36. View of the land 2 miles from the place of descent to Fyen’s Lake. 1/5 1910.
Fig. 37. Close view of a steep riverbank on one of Naja’s Islands, showing the texture of the earth
with interwoven roots of heather.
Мер». om Gront. LII.
ROO eRe ие ns nen ROR BS hi re
Fig. 35. Northward view on Fyen’s Lake from a height of 20 metres. 1/5; 1910.
Fig, 39. View towards the SW. from the top of a mountain in Fyen's Lake 1/; 1910.
Report on the expedition. 69
The land surrounding us was undulating, studded with evenly
sloping hills, which however did not exceed 50 metres in height.
Small rivulets with steep banks were winding their way in between
these hills to the lake itself, about 5 miles from our place of descent.
On May 14th we saw a herd of musk-oxen shortly after we had
begun to sledge across land, and we stopped to give the dogs a feed
having succeeded in killing two large bulls (Fig. 36).
The journey was resumed on May 1dth at 4 p.m. when we headed
for the lake, sledging quite close under the glacier-front, which rose to
a considerable height. It was perfectly vertical, but its base was hidden
under a large mass of ice, which had fallen down since last summer,
as all visible ice-blocks had sharp, angular edges.
For a few hours we sledged in between the hills and over some
rather large plains, or we followed the small rivulets which led to the
lake. The banks of the rivulets were quite steep and bore evidence
of the immense rush of water, which flows through them every summer.
These banks were on an average three metres high, and the texture
of the earth could be seen in a few places, where a slide had occured
during the preceding summer (Fig. 37). A layer of earth, interwoven
with the roots of heather and willow and having an average thickness of
about 50 ст. was lying on top of a moraine sediment, consisting of
very course gravel and small pebbles. This layer of earth was seen
in many places, and as a rule it projected above the gravel underneath,
kept suspended by the numerous roots, which bound it together.
The lake itself, which we reached after 3 hours’ travelling, had a
length of 28 miles and a general N 30°E direction. It was — save for
its extreme south end, which had an extent of 7 miles — rather narrow,
and its breadth variated between 2—5 miles. A few islands were lying
along its western bank (Fig. 38).
The lake was separated from Danmark’s Fjord by a moraine, 3
miles broad, which rose to a height of 30 metres. It was quite flat
on top, had very sharp edges and consisted of coarse gravel and small
pebbles, without any large stones at all. Some small lakes on its top
almost connected Fyen’s Lake with Danmark’s Fjord.
The land on the east side of the lake rose in large, even hills to a
height of 250—300 metres as far as the bottom of Danmark’s Fjord,
where it became higher and considerably steeper. The hills were broken
in a single place — near the middle of the lake — where a broad valley
extended ESE to the Inlandice, the only place where it was visible to
the east. The land was rather bare of snow.
The land facing the west shore was also evenly undulating in its
southernmost part, where its height did not exceed 300 metres, but a
very marked change took place on 801/,° Lat. N. from where and on to
its end it rose steeply to a height of above 400 metres less than a mile
from the shore, and in some places even closer.
70 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
On May 17th (80° 36’ Lat. N) we climbed a mountain, 410 metres
high, in order to get a general view of the surrounding land, but primarily
in order to ascertain the conditions for crossing over land to Danmark’s
Fjord. We saw that a good way could be found by following the small
lakes on top of the moraine, separating the lake from the fjord, and
we further had an opportunity to look around from this rather elevated
position.
Danmark’s Fjord could be seen as far as a short distance beyond
Cape Holbæk, and from there, through N to SW, the country was studded
with mountains, all of rather equal height i.e. about 4—500 metres,
and mostly with steep sides facing east.
The Inlandice and Leffingwell’s Nunataks could be seen to the
SW through a smooth snow-covered valley (Fig. 39), but this was the
only place where it was visible, and no Inlandice could be seen over
the comparatively lower undulating land to the east of the lake (Fig. 40).
As far as we could see, the conditions were the same to the north,
as they were here, i. e. to the east of the lake and the fjord, where the
country was hilly and undulating, being steep and mountainous as well
as higher to the west of this line of demarkation (Fig. 41).
The mountain, on which we stood, bore evidence of having once
been covered by ice, as the top was worn quite smooth and furrowed
by deep notches.
The luxuriant vegetation, which we noticed close to the Inlandice,
continued all along the lake, and the mountain which we climbed, was
covered with a surprising amount of grass, heather and willow, until
at a height of about 300 metres the vegetation disappeared altogether,
and not even mosses were seen in the sheltered places on the extreme
top. The same vegetation was seen everywhere on the land — save on
the moraine — and we saw musk-oxen on the mountain-sides, as well
as footprints and excrements of hares, ptarmigans, foxes and wolves.
The ice-sheet covering the lake was level, but large domes, 2—3
metres high, had been formed in many places by the pressure of the
water, flowing down into the lake after it had frozen over. If these
domes had not been so high, they might have been formed by the ice-
sheet sinking down on a rock, but this could not have been the case,
as the ice had only sunk about 70cm. along the coast of the lake.
This sinking indicates that the water of the lake must have flowed
out into Danmark’s Fjord, some time after the ice-sheet had become solid,
thus causing the whole ice-sheet to sink about 70cm. The outlet must
then have been blocked by ice, so that no water could escape, but the
water must have continued to flow into the lake through some under-
ground channel and reservoir from under the Inlandice, thus causing a
pressure from underneath the ice, which had been relieved through the
framing of the large domes with cracks on their tops. These cracks
acted as a kind of safety-valve, through which the water could float
MEDD. om GRØNL. LIT.
Fig. 40. View of Fyen’s Lake. Looking south from the top of a mountain. 17/5 1910,
Fig. 41. View towards the NW. from the top of a mountain in Fyen’s Lake.
Mepp. om Свомь. LII.
Fig. 42. The southernmost end of Sjelland’s Fjældene. 18/5 1910.
Fig. 43. Cape Holbæk. Seen from the north.
out over the surrounding ice.
Report on the expedition.
71
The domes were particularly numerous
and high in the narrow part of the lake, where it was almost impossible
to sledge.
The ice on the lake was partly covered with snow, and this again
with a layer of sand, blown out from the mountains and several milli-
metres thick.
We passed the moraine dividing the waters of the lake from Dan-
mark’s Fjord on May 18th, and it was very striking to see the decrease
in vegetation when passing over this narrow tract of land.
Meteorological observations on the journey on the Inlandice.
& | EN eek
= | = | = | Е SE E 2 Ea = 3 ЕЕ Remarks
CANNES 29 CRE foo) NET au = las
ee | | = | 2 & Su se MES (ed |
| ee :
April | 15th | 900 am | 7015 | |
Be etd ste 4 703-01) 22105 | NW. |) 8 KO. Str. 4 |
— | — 139 pm | 699.0 | —15.5 — |10| — 6
— — Zeuge 698.5 — | |
== 3% - | 698.5 | —15.5 — 7 |Ci.Str.| 4 |
vs ca er 695.8 | La Eat | Heavy stormclouds
— = 60° _ 695.2 | —18.0 | — 4 | Ci. Str 7 | over Dronning Louise’s
= EN ATEN = | ns
— — 85 693.5 МИ | 3.1) Str. | 10
= — | 1030 pm | 696.0 I
|
April | 17th | 65°am | 692.0 | —26.0 | Calm Clear |
— — | 800 - | 691.0 | —24.0 | WNW | 5 |Ci.Str.| 2
— — 980 - 688.0 NW 8 | Clear
— — | 10% - | 687.5 | —22.0 == 8 —
— — | 1230 pm | 679.3 == 10 —
— — 230 - | 674.5 | —26.0 — ji —
— — Bam - 674.5 — |e15) —
April | 22nd | 6°°am | 672.5 | WNW
— — Yes 672.5 | —22.0 | — 15 | Str. 2
— — | 115 - 664.5 | —22.0 — 10 3
— — | 12°°M | 662.5 | —22.0 — 101 — 3
— — 30909 pm | 662.5 | —17.5 | — 8 == 1
— с | 662-190 | Calm Clear
April | 23rd | 6° am | 666.5 | |
— | — | 75 - | 667.5 | —27.0 | WNW | 13 | Clear | see ent
— — | 845 - | 665.5 | — 95.0 = 8 | Str. 4 | from SW. against the
a ia ka ee || ie Dr
м 6060—1210
— — 6° pm | 670.5 | —26.0 | — 12 — | 10
EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
Meteorological observations (continued).
= | te us mcs Sie
< © Sd SiS cals loss of pews os Remarks
A = Reale ee
pa SR ESA se 5
6° am | 665.5 NW |15| Str. 4
100% - 666.5 W 10 | Ci.Str.| 3
12°° М | 665.5 — fi = 4
300 pm | 664.5 — 8) — 4 |
68° — | 6635 — — 5 |
(OLES 664.5 — = 5h
1000 - 664.5 — = 4
12°°M | 663.0 W Snow |
Ge pm | 6625 = Se, or
(Le 660.5 WNW == 9 till 4% pm.
gone 659.5 — = 10
ı 1100 - | 658.5 — — 10 |
1200 Mn | 657.0 == == 10 |
200 am | 657.8 |
930 am | 656.3 | |
190 pm | 655.5 23.0 | WNW |: Clear
220 - | 655.5 3.0 | — | Hazy
510 - 656.5 23.0 W MO str)! 9
700 . 656.5 25.2 — — 3
900 _ 656.5 7.0 = 3 Thick haze
1100 - | 657.6 8.0 | WNW = 5 |
800 am | 657.5 |
1045 - 657.5 W Ci Str. (|
100 pın | 655.3 are — |
930 - 654.2 — — 4 |
Die 651.3 — Str. 8 |
730 - | 653.5 Calm = 9 |
goo _ 654.5 — — 10
1100 - 654.5 — — 10 | Snow
790 am | 656.4
1045 - 656.5 Calm Clear Stormclouds over land
1200 М | 656.5 NNW | 4 = |
215 pm | 656.5 NW ba] Str: 2 |
400 - | 656.5 = 5 (1. Cu. | 9 | Clouds coming from N.
545 = 658.7 — 2 @еаг |
930 = 660.0 — 8 бов 2
ХХ = 660.0 — 8 | Clear |
400 am | 654.5 NW | 10 | Hazy |
645 - 654.2 — 8 | Clear
815 - | 654.2 — A
Report on the expedition.
Meteorological observations (continued).
73
| 5 & = я = x: Den + 2
elise | ne = ee ER Se Be
я = 5 = 2002| Og бо 33|1|52 Remarks
DER © |E2"| £5 se Ba 3°
à jes | ЯР“ 195
May | 1th | 95° - | 6542 | —207 | WNW | 1 | Clear
= — | ink) - 654.2 | —18.0 We log — \ Heavy Cu. drifted
— | — | 2%pm | 659.0 | —180 | WNW] 8| — fii eerie
a= — 389 -, | 659.3 | — 11.5 — 5 | —
Få = 5% - | 661.0 | —18.3 = 3 |=
— — 720 - | 662.7 | —18.0 — 4 | Str. 3
May | 3rd 815 am | 671.5 NW ic. 10
— ALU RAE 641.6), 19:8) Hr |). 4 Str: 1
— = 10° pm | 623.2.) 19.0 — | 8| Clear
— — 250 _ 674.2 | —18.5 | Calm — |
= — 420 - | 673.6 | —20.0 — — |
== — 630 - | 673.5 | — 22.3 — —
— — | 815 - | 611.9 | — 239 | — —
Ee | | 1000 - | 669.3 | —280 | — ie
= | — | 12°°Mn | 669,3 — ==
|
May | 4th 790 am | 667.5 | Calm Clear |
A ets. 668.0! 26:0, ПМ 2 Ci. Str. ГЕ тео
— | — | 118° - | 669.0 | —210 | Calm — 6
— — 145 - | 667.5 | —20.5 | NW 8| — 4
— — 320 pm | 668.3 | —19.5 — 3 — 2
— — 5% - | G68.8.| —19.5 = 2 | Clear
— | — | 7 - | 668.5 | —23.0 | — 4 | Ci. Str.| 3
th 900257 669: |
May | 7th 300 am | 677.5
— — 6° - | 678.7 | —20.5 | МММ | 9 | Clear
— — 745 - | 678.2 | —19.0 — (10! —
— — 920 - | 676.5 | —17.3 | NW | 10} —
| 0
zZ En AR 1 | MR mat NW ig Str 9 Clouds coming up
— — | pm .3 | — 5.5 N tr. from SE
— А В 05 SE — 7 — 2
— — | 430 - | 680.0 | —14.7 — 18 | Haze | 4
ln ребе Henne TT ae Ale
— — | 700 - | 682.5 | —16.0 — |14| — | 6
May | 9th | 8° am | 685.5 | |
— — | 100рш | 685.0 | —10.0 | SW 8 | Clear |
— = 28° — | 6822 | — 9.0 Ware Hide —
— — | 400 - | 690.6 | — 8.0 — |5| —
SEN оба ige | | u =
— — Be Esel | — 8.5 =
== = 800 _ | =
|
74 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
Remarks to the chart.
Plate I.
The route from Dronning Louise’s Land, across the Inlandice to
Fyen’s Lake, is laid down on a basis of 5 sets of longitudes and 6 sets of
latitudes. These observations were taken with a theodolite, fitted with
two levels, which the Navy Department had been kind enough to lend
to the expedition. The observations are taken in sets with the tele-
scope placed alternately on the right and left.
Three Waltham Watches were carried as time-pieces, and each watch
had its individual furbag suspended from a string around the neck of
the man, who carried the watches, and against his bare breast where
the temperature was nearly constant. The watches were only taken out
of their small furbags for winding and comparison. The rate of these
watches had been carefully observed while onboard the ship, and two
of the watches had been carried on the Lambert’s Land trip, where there
was an opportunity — by comparing them with the chronometer of
the ship before and after the voyage — to determine their daily rate
under circumstances, which were nearly similar to those on the Inlandice.
A comparison of all three watches with the chronometer of the
ship was made just before leaving the “Alabama”, and the rate of our
watches, as well as those of Laus, was nearly constant until April the
8th, when my three watches unfortunately ran out. It was however
on the day before leaving the support-party, and we could obtain a
new good error to Greenwich time, before parting company with LauB,
through comparing them with his watch.
The rate of one of the watches changed however very much during
the days following this last comparison, and the watch did not become
normal till 3—4 days later. It was however as yet possible to get a
good sun-azimuth to Cape Bellevue on Dronning Louise’s Land, and a
new and final error was thus found. А time-observation for determining
the error was again made at Cape Rigsdagen, and the error used for the
observation in between these two places is found through interpolation.
A daily record of the rate and a comparison of the watches was kept
up all the way from Shannon Island to beyond Cape Rigsdagen.
The main points of the route across the Inlandice are thus based
on rather good observations. The daily course was approximately set
by means of rough bearings to the sun, the true bearing of which was
estimated according to the true time of the place, known from the last
observation of latitude, with due allowance made for the change in time
while travelling on a westerly course — as a rule true N by W or NNW.
Our compasses could not be used for determining the course, аз.
they — we carried two — were very slushy, and consequently on days.
when the sun was invisible, the route was entirely laid out at a certain
angle to the sastrugi, the permanent direction of which was NNW—
SSE true.
Report on the expedition. 70
An hourly record of the course and the distance travelled was further-
more kept with great accuracy and noted down, whenever a stop was
made.
The observations of longitudes and latitudes were not taken in the
same spot, save in two cases, as the weather-conditions were so severe
and changeable that we did not dare to waste 4—5 hours, when trav-
elling was possible, but no error of any importance can arise through
this cause, as the hourly travelling-record was kept very accurately.
The station IV & V May 4th and 5th and May 8th and 9th are
however laid down according to latitudes and longitudes in the same spot.
Longitudes.
i | т прет i ee = ST
5 |= Е, =
аа - REN SEE Se SEE bp
SK KA = | 5 © д = = 5 | os Sr =
| lue „lerne Ne os A en te |
1.07, | 6\ьа. п. | 77957 | 6 |61136 | 9°402 |+12237 | 24° 11'| Azimuth
22/4 | 61|: р. т. | 78° 02’ 6 | 60200 |12°38 9 | + 12323 | 24° 16’ |
И. 384 |5 p.m.| 78°24’ | 6 | 46802 | 17° 40°5 | + 12413 | 24° 34’ | Azimuth
ТУ. 45 |115 р.ш.| 79°274| 6 | 73122 | 12°36'9 | + 126 02/ 26° 09' | Azimuth
У. | 4,17 p.m.| 80°048 |- 6 | 721 50 14° 24 3 | + 1 25 36 | 26° 51° Azimuth
VI. | Is | 74s а. m. | 80° 55 6 | 72335 | 22°04 3 | 4+12703/| 24° 47’ | Azimuth
Js] р.ш. | 8203 6 | 94827 14°38'2 | + 12807 21° 48 |
Latitudes.
Date | approximate | Altitude | М. Lat.
ate m | itude a
22/4 24° 16 23°49 | 779582 |
о HR 24030" 25°37 | 78° 269
STERN BED 6200 26° 191 | 79°158
55 |: 26°09 26° 24/5 | 79° 274
6 | 26°61 | 26°54 | 80°04'8 (Midnight in
16—17/, 26° 20 9532 | 80°259 | myen’s Lake
9]; 25° 50 28027 | 80° 583
The chart of the land which we passed on the journey across the
Inlandice is made on the basis of these observations, and azimuths are
taken to all sharply defined points as seen from the stations I, II, IV, V.
It was however difficult to keep up an accurate surveying on a journey
across the border of the Inlandice, as it was impossible to decide before-
hand where the stations were to be, owing to the extremely hilly nature
of this part of the Inlandice, which often caused the land to drop
out of sight even for a day or two. The sights are therefore not often
cutting into the land at right angles.
A running survey was furthermore made while passing the nunataks
76 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
or in between the continuous landmasses of Holm’s Land and Amdrup’s
Hojland, and a rather good kroki was thus obtained. There are in
all nine sketches of land in the journal as well as six krokis.
The compasses were sometimes used for taking bearings, but they
proved very inaccurate when check-bearings were taken, and none of
these bearings are used for laying down the land, save in one case,
with Laub’s Nunataks, in which case, however, a check is possible,
as the coastland, surveyed by the Danmark-Expedition, was visible at
the time, and the nunataks were seen over a very pronounced gap in this
coastland.
The bodies of land surveyed on the voyage from Dronning Louise’s
Land to Danmark’s Fjord may appropriately be treated under three
different headings:
I. The isolated group of nunataks from 78°10’—78°35' N. Lat.
II. The land bordering the Inlandice to the east from lat. 79°40’ М.
and northward to about 80°35’ and Amdrup’s Højland around the
bottom of the Danmark’s Fjord from 80°15’ to 80°35’ N. Lat.
ПГ. The Fyen’s Lake and the resurveying of the lower end of the Dan-
mark’s Fjord.
I. The Moltke’s, Garde’s and Bildsoe’s Nunataks are laid
down on the basis of bearings taken from stations I, II & IV, that is
one station to the south, one west and one NNW off the Nunataks.
The positions of the stations are determined by longitudes and latitudes
on the basis of the hourly travelling records, and the bearings are
sun-azimuths.
The bearings from the south were taken from the top of a high
hill at a distance of about 35 miles and comprise 3 sights: 1 to the conical
top of Moltke’s Nunatak, and 2 to the east and west point of the largest
Bildsoe’s Nunatak. These were the only well-defined points visible from
this distance. An azimuth to Cape Bellevue on Dronning Louise’s Land
was also taken from this station.
The sights from the west were also taken from the top of a high
hill, from where all the land was visible at a distance of about 12 miles.
The points to which azimuths were taken were sharply defined. A good
kroki of the land was obtained from this station.
The azimuth from the north was taken from 79°27’4 N. Lat. and
was but one very long sight to Moltke’s Nunatak, as the extension in
E-W direction of Garde’s Nunatak — also visible — was too uncertain
to be used for measuring purposes.
II. The land east and west of Kronprins Christian’s Land's
Inlandice is laid down on the basis of some long azimuths to well-
defined points taken from 2 stations, namely:
ГУ on 79°27’4N. Lat. and 26°09’ W. Long. and
У - 800048 — and2651’ — . The position of these
Report on the expedition. 17
two stations is rather correct, with longitudes and latitudes taken in
the same spot.
The sights are however very long — 45 miles and more — but their
accuracy may be tested approximately by the azimuths taken to the
northern and southern extremity of Lambert’s Land, which give the
same north-south extension of this land, as shown by the surveyings
of the Danmark-Expedition.
The land east of Kronprins Christian’s Land’s Inlandice
is laid down on the basis of azimuths both from station IV and V, and
the coast is thus rather accurate, as we could get cross-bearings to some
points. The northernmost bearing from station IV may be erroneous,
as the land, to which the sight was taken, was so low that it was dif-
ficult to see exactly where it ended, but it may here be stated that the
stations are in any case much elevated above the land, which was to.
be surveyed, and as we could look down upon it, many details were
visible, which would otherwise have been hidden.
The land west of Kronprins Christian’s Land’s Inlandice
is laid down on the basis of sights taken from station V, the distance
from there to the land, and furthermore three sketches of the coastline.
From station V it was impossible to see the low foreland lying at the
foot of the mountains, and the sights taken from this station are all to
mountains some distance inland. The outlines of the forelands are
roughly sketched from the kroki made from our last camping-site on
the Inlandice, 5 miles from its edge and 700 metres above sea-level.
III. Fyen’s Lake is laid down on the map on the basis of an azimuth
taken from station V to a very prominent mountain on its west coast
and further after a very careful track-survey. Compass-bearings were
taken from the Inlandice to the prominent cape on its west coast, and
it may be mentioned that a rough but effective check on the direction
of the lake was obtained, when two nights running we saw the sun standing
right over the northern end of this lake at 2 a.m. (true time). Roughly
speaking this gives a general NNE direction of the lake.
A careful track-survey was as stated taken all the way through
Fyen’s Lake, and a latitude was taken at midnight (80°25’9), but it may
be that the latter is not accurate, as the observation was begun too
late, and the sun rose, before the observation was finished.
A mountain of 410 metres was climbed on the west coast of Fyen’s
Lake, and a fjord or lake extending northward in the same direction
as Fyen’s Lake was seen from there.
The direction of this fjord or lake — whether the one or the other
we could not determine at the time, but it proved to be Danmark’s Fjord
— was so near NNE, that we never thought it possible that it might
be Danmark’s Fjord, the direction of which, at the lower end, was very
nearly E-W from Horc-HaGen’s chart. We therefore thought it an
78 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
easterly branch of Danmark’s Fjord, which had escaped the observation
of the Myzrius-ERICHSEN party.
A very accurate track-survey was made while travelling out through
this fjord, and its direction was at first determined in the same manner
as in Fyen’s Lake, i. e. by means of the sun, which at 2 a.m. was standing
right over its northerly end.
The breadth of the fjord off Cape Holbæk was determined by the
walking distance across it. The fjord opened up immediately after pas-
sing this cape, and it became at once evident that it was the Dan-
mark’s Fjord, in which we travelled, and observations were taken in
order to get the exact data, on which to base the direction of the
fjord.
Observations for latitude and longitude were made (Station VI),
and azimuths were taken to three defined points north of the stations,
and one to the south, to Cape Holbeek.
The distance from the station VI to Cape Viborg is about 8 miles,
and an error in judging this distance of more than one mile is absolutely
out of the question. With the sight from station VI to Cape Viborg
and the travelled distance we have the means to determine with a fair
accuracy the breadth of Danmark’s Fjord off this cape.
While off a jutting point just south of Hjærtefjældsdalen on 81°07’
we could as yet distinguish a sharply outlined and easily recognizable
mountain at the southern end of Sjællandsfjældene just clear of Cape
Holbæk, which can be seen from the shore itself on 81°15’ N. Lat. and
this proves without the aid of track-survey and observations that the
south-end of Danmark’s Fjord does not bend off to the west as shown
on the map of HorGc-HAGeEn.
The east coast of Danmark’s Fjord fell off to the east just north of
Cape Viborg, and it seems as if a little further north the fjord may have
the breadth shown on the map of HoEG-HAGEN.
Foggy weather and our anxiety to get along towards the mouth of
the fjord forced us to discontinue the track-surveying from Ulvebakkerne
and northward, but the direction of the coast, as well as all indentations
and capes, was apparently quite correct on this part of the coastline,
and further along the coast, as often as we had a chance of checking
the surveys of Horc-HaGen, we found them correct as well in their
chief features as in details.
On the map of the journey over the Inlandice, Pl. I, there will
be found two ice-profiles, a longitudinal and a cross-section cut.
The longitudinal profile is mainly a nearly north-south cut of the
Inlandice from Brede Bre to Fyen’s Lake, and it represents all the material
for determining the heights, which has been gathered and which has
been deemed reliable.
The actual rise or fall in the heights of the Inlandice as shown
Report on the expedition. 79
on this profile does not always correspond with the notes on the daily
route-sketches found in the text, wherefore I do not omit stating that
the route-sketches were made on the spot and represented the seeming
ice-conditions on the spot. The profile is of course the reliable material,
as the heights have been worked out carefully after our return.
The bottom end of the longitudinal ice-profile has a double cut,
one where Laus’s party and mine travelled together, and the other
where he was alone on his journey to the north and west of Dronning
Louise’s Land. The rise of the ice on this latter profile is comparatively
very considerable, but it must be born in mind that this route — al-
most westerly — will appear much shorter when projected down on а
rightangled profile, and the rise of the ice will therefore seem greater
than it actually is.
The cross-section at the bottom of the map gives, however, a better
idea of the rise of the Inlandice where the main-direction of the course
was nearly due W., and this cut, combined with the longitudinal cut,
will give a fair idea of the height of the Inlandice passed by Глов.
The height of the nunataks is not accurate, nor as a rule in pro-
portion to the ice, and they have only been marked off on the profiles
to show where land forms an obstacle against the free motion of the In-
landice. Where we have been able to ascertain the height of a nuna-
tak, or where information can be gathered from the results of the Dan-
mark-Expedition, this height has been laid down in the same proportion
as the Inlandice.
This is particularly the case in the lower end of the longitudinal
profile, and in the cross-section where the profiles show the real pro-
portion between ice and land.
The Bildsoe’s, Garde’s and Moltke’s Nunataks do not pretend m
be in the right proportion as compared with the ice.
It may be stated here that the daily route-sketches and the corres-
ponding place on the route-map might not correspond, either as to dis-
tance or direction. The route-map is however the most accurate, and
the sketches tend only to show the apparent conditions of the place,
that is whether there seemed to be a rise or fall and this only as seen
by the eye and not with the aid of the theodolite. The travelled
distance was guessed hour by hour, and a rather considerable over-esti-
mation or under-estimation as to the actual travelled distance during the
day may be found in some cases.
Danmark’s Fjord.
May 18th.. We reached Danmark’s Fjord at За. т. and continued
our way outward towards Cape Holbæk, which rose quite vertically
from the water. This was however the first steep land seen on the west
coast of the fjord, as the coast from the cape and southward to the
80 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
bottom was lined by a long, flat, rounded hill, the height of which did
not exceed 100 metres. High land could be seen further back inland
above the hill, and apparently separated from it by a fairly broad
valley. The hill was broken in one place, apparently by the outlet from
Fyen’s Lake, and was so covered with snow, that no stones could be seen
on the slope facing the fjord.
The east coast of Danmark’s Fjord was bordered by a mountain
range, which rose steeply from the shore with no flat or low foreland
between its foot and the water. This range which rose to a height of
about 300 metres was “Sjælland’s Fjældene”. It consisted of 3 different
mountain, the southernmost of which was conical, the others being oblong
in shape. A large mass of fallen stones covered about half of the
mountain-side, the rest of which was nearly vertical, while the summits
themselves were apparently quite flat (Fig. 42).
On entering Danmark’s Fjord we were struck by the absence of tidal
cracks and thought at first that we were still on a lake, as the
tide must make some cracks under ordinary circumstances. These we
did not find, however, until farther on, a little to the south of Sjællands
Sletten.
It would thus seem that the ebb and flood must be very small in
the extreme bottom of Danmark’s Fjord. Possibly the water is so shallow
that the ice freezes to the bottom; but this does not seem likely, as we
passed some few pieces of ice frozen into the bay ice and rising some
5 metres above the surrounding ice, thus demanding a fair amount of
water for floating into position.
Cape Holbæk was passed at 1a.m. on May 19th, and the fjord to
the north opened up immediately after leaving the cape behind us.
Cape Holbæk was a fairly high, quite isolated mountain, the southern
and eastern sides of which rose perfectly vertically out of the water to
а height of about 200—250 metres; the north side, however, was lower
and gradually sloping. Its western termination seemed quite steep and
was separated from the mountains further back by the above-mentioned
broad valley, which ended in a little bight just north of the cape. A
fairly large river, probably from Fyen’s Lake, runs along the bottom of
the valley and empties out to the north of the cape, and the Inlandice
was visible through it to the SW (Fig. 43 & 44).
The coast to the north of Cape Holbæk became higher (about 300
metres) but was undulating, being only the foothills of the high moun-
tains further back, which reached the coast at about 80°56’ N. Lat.
From there to 81°07’ N., the coast-line was perfectly straight, and the
unbroken mountain-range rose vertically to a height of about 400—
500 metres. The face of this mountain-range was so straight, that all
of it could be seen when viewed from a place not more than % mile
off shore, and its height was apparently the same all the way.
The dark basalt wall was broken by three horizontal layers of a
MEDD. om GRØNL. LII.
Fig. 44. Close view of the northern end of Cape Holbæk
Fig. 45. View of the west coast of Danmark’s Fjord from Station VI. 21/5 1910,
Mepp. om GRØNL. LII.
Fig. 46. View southward from Pinseskæret showing part of the west coast of Danmark’s Fjord.
Fig. 47. View westward from Pinseskæret looking towards the Sjælland's Sletten.
Report on the expedition. 81
yellowish colour. One of these layers at least must contain animal fossil
matter, as all the light-coloured stones which we found at the foot of
the mountain contained marks of fossil shells. The layers were per-
fectly parallel and situated apparently at a height of 100, 150 and 300
metres respectively above the surface of the water.
The east coast to the north of Sjælland’s Fjældene was not nearly
so high as the west coast, and rose in evenly undulating hills, one above
the other, far inland but apparently not higher than 300 metres. The
Inlandice was visible in some places above the tops of the hills.
The end of the unbroken basalt wall was reached on May 21st,
when we came to a very narrow valley or rather break in the moun-
tain, along the bottom of which a river flows during summer time
(Fig. 45). The extreme end of the ridge was passed 2 miles further to
the north, when we came to a river delta with a breadth of at least
1% mile. The river itself came from the SW, winding its way behind
the mountain-range just passed, separating it from an isolated, but still
higher mountain with an elevation of at least 600—700 metres.
This mountain and two others smaller as well as lower ones north
and east of it, rose steeply from a very level plain, an ancient ocean
bed consisting of gravel and covered with an immense amount of shells,
one kind circular and another topformed. The plain was quite bare of
snow, save for the drifts collected in the river-beds; a little grass and
heather as well as some few willows were seen. Saw a great amount
of tuffstone all over the plain.
This low stretch of land — Hjærtefjældsdalen — extended north
and south for 3 miles, and about 4 miles inland.
It may here be mentioned that we took samples of different geo-
logical but particularly botanical specimens, whenever we touched land;
these samples, however, were all lost later on through the sledge falling
into the water.
Hjærtefjældsdalen formed the beginning of the comparatively low
coast extending from there all the way to Cape Rigsdagen, only broken
in some few places and on one short stretch by a low, but steep moun-
tain. Inland, however, the mountains were still high and steep, parti-
cularly in the vicinity of Sjællands Sletten, which we reached on May
21st (Fig. 46, 47, 48).
We walked inland over Sjelland’s Sletten to the lake shown on
Horc-Hacen’s chart. The valley was very desolate and almost void
of vegetation — at least as far as we went, some 3—4 miles inland.
The valley was a gravel bed, similar to Hjærtefjældsdalen, but
otherwise it formed a great contrast to this level plain, being studded
with large gravel banks, some of which had a height of 10—15 metres.
These banks had steep sides, and slides must continually take place,
as no trace of vegetation was seen on them. The valley rose slowly and
extended far inland in a WSW direction, forming a division between
LIT. 6
82 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
the mountainous country to the south and the high, steep Jydske Aas
to the north.
We did not go far inland, as we wanted game and plainly saw that
none was to be found here, or at least not until we had reached very
much further inland, and knowing from BrøNLunD's Diary that My ius-
ERICHSEN had found plenty of musk-ox in the sloping country forming
the south side of the bay, we deemed it more prudent to explore that
country in search of game.
This mountain-slope — albeit facing north — was covered with a
vegetation, almost as luxuriant as in Fyen’s Lake, and formed a surprising
contrast to the level and sheltered land in Sjælland’s Sletten; in spite
of the vegetation, however, and the many old traces of musk-ox, we
saw none of these animals nor hares nor ptarmigan, and had to give
it up with no result whatever.
Оп May 22nd we reached “Ulvebakkerne” (81°25’) and saw а cairn
on the low, sloping coast, about 59 metres above water-level. We sus-
pected that the cairn had been erected to mark the place where the
ill-fated party collected some drift wood, as a large piece was lying at
its base, as well as many smaller pieces and shavings and chips. On
opening the cairn, however, we found a carefully corked shot-cartridge,
containing the following report from Myrıus-ErıicHsen, which on
Pl. VII is presented in facsimile:
“Danmark’s Fjord ca. 81°25’ N. lat., 12th September 1907.
"HAGEN, BRØNLUND and the undersigned — all well — leave to-day
“this place, called “Ulvebakkerne”, with 1 sledge and 7 dogs, to begin
“the return journey to the ship on the new ice, which has to-day at last
“become safe. Since we left our summer camp, about 44 miles from here,
“on August 8th, we have been obliged to kill 7 dogs as food for ourselves
“and the remaining dogs, while we were 15 days out on the sea ice, our
“passage stopped 2 miles from land by the water from the melting ice.
“At last, on August 25th we reached land and shot 4 hares. By short
“journeys day by day since then we have moved our camp altogether
“about 32 miles into Danmark’s Fjord, constantly impeded in our ad-
“vance to good hunting grounds by mild weather, impassable new ice
“and lastly by open! water from coast to coast. Walked on foot over
“the hills, followed by the dogs, some 32 miles further into the Fjord
“to “Sjælland’s Slette”, shot in all 15 young ptarmigan, 15 hares, 1 wolf
“and 8 musk-oxen (2 bulls, 3 cows and 3 calves). Camped for a week
“under open sky, cooked our food by means of drift-wood, of which we
“found quantities along the coast, fed up the dogs and transported the
“meat and tallow here to this place, which is the southernmost spot in
“the Fjord, we have been able to reach with the sledge. The ice further
1 Underlined by Myrıus-Erıcnsen. Note by author.
MEDD. om Gront. LII.
Fig. 48. View towards the NW. from Pinseskæret showing part of the coast of Danmark’s Fiord
in the vicinity of Ulvebakkerne.
Fig 49. Cape Kronborg. 74/5 1910
MEDD. om Свомг. LII.
Fig. 50. Ice pressed up on the coast in the vicinity of Cape Kronborg. 74/5 1910
Fig. 51. View over Mylius-Erichsen’s summer-place, seen from Bronlund’s Varde.
Report on the expedition. 83
“in still not safe, otherwise had considered the possibility of returning
“home via the inland ice from the head of Danmark’s Fjord to the Fjord
“at са. 79° N. lat. Imagine we have had down to 15° of cold (Centigrade)
“during the past week. Taking on the sledge drift-wood for 8 days’
“cooking, over 300 lbs. of meat, which is sufficient food for ourselves
“for 16 days and 8 days for the dogs. Will follow the Fjord eastwards
“the ca. 144 miles out to the outer coast and from there, with the help
“of the depots laid out there in the spring and bear hunting, we hope
“to be able to reach the ship safely in 5—6 weeks.
L. MYLIUS-ERICHSEN,
Leader of the “Danmark Expedition”.
This report gave us food for thought, as we had thus far considered
it certain that MyLius-ERICHSEN and his comrades had gone along the
west coast of Danmark’s Fjord, to Fyen’s Lake, and along it to the
Inlandice and had then made the ascent, although it had seemed to us
incredible that this could be possible, considering the steep glacier face
and the absence of large snow drifts in the fall of the year. It was now,
however, beyond doubt that the party on leaving this place had gone
northward along the coast, at least for some part of the way.
The question now arose — where then could we except to find the
journals? There might be a possibility of their being at Cape Kron-
borg, as BRØNLUND writes about a depot laid down here, but it seemed
most likely that the party had taken everything with them, when they
passed the cape on their homeward journey, as they were then according
to the report well fed and in good condition and had comparatively
plentiful provisions. The journals might then be found at the place
where they had later ascended the Inlandice from the outer coast when
stopped by open water, but as to where this might be, however, we
could form no idea as yet.
We had now to make some alterations in our sledging arrangements,
as we had lost or killed as useless eight dogs since leaving our comrades
on the Inlandice on April 10th. We had now only seven left, and were
compelled to leave one of our sledges behind, although the total load
was somewhat heavy for one sledge, weighing as it did a little more
than 300 kg. The going was however fairly good in spite of a thin layer
of wet snow, which covered the ice, and which continually increased
in thickness, as it was snowing almost every day.
The coast was followed up on May 23rd, and we kept quite close
inland, as we could now expect to find traces of the party anywhere,
but the shore along which we were sledging was not a likely place for a
depot or cairn, as it rose very steeply without any low foreland. The
coast itself was undulating, but we could not see the topography
further inland, as the weather was very foggy and continued so during
the following days.
6*
>
84 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
There was a surprising difference in the appearance of the country
near the Inlandice and here. There it was almost bare of snow, and a
large amount of vegetation and very many traces of animals were seen
wherever we touched land; the country bordering Danmark’s Fjord
however, was much more snow-covered, the more so the further we
advanced toward the mouth of the fjord. The coastline, which we
passed to-day, just south of Gundersteddal, and which only had a
height of about 70 metres, was so covered with snow as to give the im-
pression of being a small local glacier. The vegetation was very scanty,
save in some very few places, and the only animals of which we found
any trace, were foxes.
Gundersteddal was passed at midnight May 23rd, but we could
not see the land behind it owing to fog. Seen as we saw it, there seemed
to be no valley, save the one cut out in the hills by a fairly large river,
apparently coming from far inland and draining off much water, as
the banks were very steep.
To the north of that — about Cape Kronborg — the coast once
more became steep, almost vertical, but it did not rise to any great
height, probably not above 200 metres (Fig. 49). During the night’s
sledging we passed only four places, which could afford even a poor site
for a depot, and all four places were carefully searched without any
traces whatever being found. It was impossible to say for certain which
of the three vertical cliffs passed during the night should be Cape Kron-
borg, as the coastline was very straight, and it was so foggy, that we
could not get a view of the opposite shore and thus find our position
by bearings; this was, however, of no great importance, as there could
be no depots on the stretch we had passed.
We were surprised to find very high pressure-ridges on all projec-
ting points from a little north of Gundersteddal. The ridges had a
height of about 10—15 metres and were formed of very heavy ice, which
had even been forced up on the low shore in large flakes, showing that
the pressure must have been extreme. These ridges did not date from the
previous summer, as the edges were melted off, but they had not been
exposed to open water, as the waves in that case would have reduced
the ridges to a greater extent than was the case (Fig. 50). There had
most likely been open water since the autumn 1907, as the ridges could
not be so old, so it will be seen that it was not an unusual state of affairs,
which broke up the ice in 1907, but a thing of more or less frequent
occurrence.
The coast to the north of the cliffs, which form Cape Kronborg,
was rather low, and it being foggy we decided to remain in camp to
give the dogs a rest, while we could get a good chance of carefully in-
vestigating the land, as this would most likely be the place where the
depot at Cape Kronborg mentioned by Ввомгомр had been left. We
walked along on the land itself, but found no traces at all, either this
MEDD. om GRØNL. LII.
Fig. 52. The fireplace of Mylius-Erichsen in his summer-place. 26/5 1910.
Fig. 53. The cairn on Mylius-Erichsen’s summer-place. 26/5; 1910,
Mepp. om GRØNL. LII.
Fig. 54. Land back of Mylius-Erichsen’s summer-place seen from about 3 miles out to sea. 24/5 1910.
Fig. 55. Cape Rigsdagen. 27/5 1910
Report on the expedition. 85
time or later, on May 25th, when we were sledging close in to the low
coast.
In the evening we camped off a place, which we thought to be the
summer camp, judging from Horc-Hacen’s chart. A large river and
just north of it some smaller ones intersected a quite low, clayey fore-
land, which rose slowly up to 100 metres about 1 mile inland.
It was however not the place, but we traversed it several times
before coming to the conclusion that we had made a mistake in the
locality, as no traces whatever were found on the extremely barren
land.
The weather was a little clearer than usual to-day, and we were
able to see quite a distance inland. The country was undulating and
rose in long, flat hills, as far as we could see, but it did not attain any
great height, probably not more than 200 metres.
It was again impressed upon us that the country must be more
than usually covered with snow, as hardly any bare spots were visible
when looking out over the land, and north and south of the above men-
tioned low country there was so much snow on the coast that it fell
off with a vertical drop of 2—3 metres, perfectly resembling a local
glacier.
At last, on May 26th, we reached the summer camp at about 82° N. and
found “Bronlunds Varde” shown on HøEG-HAGEN's chart. It was erected
on a 75 metres high shoulder, projecting out to sea, and as the surroun-
ding country was very low, the cairn was standing in a very dominating
place. It was empty, but from its site we had an extensive view over
the low land and small surrounding hills, almost every one of which
was surmounted by a cairn (Fig. 51).
The summer camp itself was quite flat, extending for a length of
1% miles N—S, and 34 miles in breadth. It was bordered on the shore-
ward side by small hills, between which some rivulets had cut fairly
deep beds, which continued out over the low, level plain. Near one
of these rivers we found the old camping site of Mytius-ERIcHSEN and
close by it the fireplace.
This fireplace was very crude. It consisted of a couple of large
tins, which had formerly contained dog-pemmican and were now filled
with stones, flanked by a few large boulders. Between these latter an
iron runner was wedged down, the iron being so bent that a pot could
be suspended from its upper end (Fig. 52).
Some ashes as well as some half burned bones of musk-ox were
still lying in the circular enclosure thus formed, and this latter indicated
the scarcity of fuel, albeit bones — particularly fresh ones — burn
very well, when once alight.
Round about we saw many traces of men, viz. footprints in the
clayey ground, but of utensils no trace. Some small pieces of metal
formerly belonging to the theodolite were found close to the stones,
86 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
which marked the tent enclosure, and scattered about were a few pieces
of rope and cloth, which had passed through the dogs. We saw only
a very few bones of musk-ox, which was quite natural, considering that
they had used the great bulk of them as fuel, and nothing whatever
of interest was seen.
A cairn standing about 1000 metres from the camping site was
searched (Fig. 53), and in it we found a thermometer case, containing
the following report, which on PI. VIII is presented in facsimile:
“First-lieutenant HAGEN, the Greenlander BRONLUND and the under-
“signed on May 28th 1907 at the North-east Naze of this land (ca. 82°04’
“N. Lat., са. 22° W. Long.) left the sledge party of First-lieutenant Koch,
“who had reached the north point of Greenland, and were on their way
“back to the ship, at Cape Bismarck. We drove westward with 23 dogs
“until the Ist of June and reached Peary’s Cape Glacier, discovered that
“the Peary Channel does not? exist; Navy Cliff is connected by fast
“land with Heilprinn Land. We renamed Independence Bay the Inde-
“pendence Fjord and built a cairn (with report) on a low point near
“Cape Glacier. On the way out through the Fjord we discovered and
“investigated two side fjords — “Bronlunds Fjord” towards the north-
“west and “Hagens Fjord” towards the south-east and built a cairn
“(with report) at the last-mentioned. Also discovered old tent-rings.
“Mild weather suddenly set in, deep snow, melting ice-water on the
“ice, lack of big game and sickness and loss of energy among the dogs
“made our journey out difficult and delayed us so much, that we only
“arrived here on June 12th. Further advance by way of the ice was
_ “then impossible. Only 15 dogs were still living, one died later. Since
“then we have existed exclusively on the hunting (7 musk-oxen and 1
“calf, 15 wild geese, 4 hares and 3 ptarmigan). Land surveying sup-
“plemented, the scientific collections added to, especially flowering plants
“and plant and animal fossils. Called the land Kronprins Christian’s
“Land.
“Devoid of further food for ourselves and the dogs, having had
“по big game since July 16th, we must to-day — after ferrying across
“to the fast ice on an ice-floe — with 14 dogs, two sledges and all our
“goods seek better hunting grounds along the coast away from this per-
“fectly desolate locality, which we have wandered over within an area
“of 20 miles. All three are quite well. Will endeavour to reach some
“miles further into the Fjord lying to the south-west from here, which
“we explored in May and called “Danmark’s Fjord”, where at that time
“we found good hunting of hares and musk-oxen. If we succeed in
“obtaining sufficient food, we intend, when the ice becomes passable
“probably towards the end of the present month, to undertake the
1 Underlined by Mytius-Ericusen. Note by author.
Report on the expedition. 87
“ca. 500 miles journey back to the ship, which we hope to reach before
“the end of September with or without the dogs.
“The cairns built in the neighbourhood of this cairn were set up
“by HAGEN for trigonometric measurement of the land and contain no
“reports.
“In one or more cairns further up in the Fjord we shall deposit
“reports on our later fate.
“August 8th 1907.
L. MyL1us-ERICHSEN,
Leader of the “Danmark Expedition to the
north-east coast of Greenland” 1906—08.”’
Nothing whatever was found in the vicinity of the cairns, and none
of the other cairns were investigated, as we knew from the above that
nothing could be found.
That which interested us most in the report found was Mytius-
ERICHSEN’s statement as to the non-existence of Peary Channel, as the
many gales and the consequent delay on the Inlandice had forced us
to consider it most prudent to go through this channel and down along
the NW coast of Greenland, until we met the Eskimos. This we thought
was our only chance of escaping a summer somewhere on the coast.
This plan was now impossible, as we could not think of going an
unknown distance overland where bare land might stop the sledges any
moment, and we had consequently to follow the exact wording of the
orders from the Committee, in which it was stated that ... “If the jour-
“nals are not found in the vicinity of Cape Holbæk or Cape Kronborg,
“then the homeward journey must be made along the outer coast of
“NE Greenland, round Nordostrundingen to Lambert’s Land. The jour-
“ney will be facilitated by the depots left on the coast by the Danmark-
“Expedition. The coast must be carefully examined, and all depots
“opened in search of journals or information”.
The orders further stated: “The Committee must emphatically point
“out that the aforesaid journey towards the west through Peary Channel
“is only to be attempted, provided conditions are so favourable as to
“practically exclude the possibility of losing the results obtained”.
We still wanted, however, if possible to explore the bottom of
Independence Fjord, as we now knew that the extent of this journey
would be limited to about 100 miles either way (Fig. 54). We there-
fore kept on northward from the summer-camp to Cape Rigsdagen,
along the low coast, which — like most other parts of the land — was
covered with snow (Fig. 55). The coast became a little higher, as we
advanced, but was not precipitous and ended toward the extreme NE
in a low naze, which was reached on May 27th at За. м.
The layer of snow on the ice was very soft and became still more
so just after passing this naze, and it was evident that the hundred
88 Esnar MIKKELSEN.
miles’ journey to the bottom would take a long time, particularly as
our dogs were so very exhausted.
We did not deem the possible result of this journey — the surveying
of the extreme bottom, a stretch of some few miles — worth the risk,
and began our homeward journey on May 27th at 11 p.m.
As will be seen from the above, we had much fog while in Danmark’s
Fjord, and on the last part of the journey the east coast could only
be seen in glimpses save on two days, when the weather was clear —
one day at Sjelland’s Sletten and another at the summer camp, but in
both cases, the land could be seen far to either side. We were thus
able to form an idea of the appearance of the east coast, which was
undulating and hilly all the way from Sjælland’s Fjældene to the NE
point of the fjord. The hills, which rose to their full height some few
miles inland, were however between 400—500 metres high. They were
divided by some very large rivers which had cut out large valleys in
the sides of the hills or mountains. They probably drained the In-
landice, seen in most places above the coastland, which had a breadth
of 15—20 miles.
The land tapered down toward the north, and the naze inside Prins
Frederik Islands, as well as the islands themselves were quite iow, while
Cape Ringkøbing lying further back was high and precipitous.
The snow covering the ice in Danmark’s Fjord was fairly deep and
soft, whenever we came a couple of thousand metres out from the coast,
but disappeared in most cases quite close in to land, where, however,
the glare-ice by now (the later part of May) was covered by about 2 cm.
soft, wet, newly fallen snow.
The only place where the snow was really difficult to pass was off
Hjærtefjældsdalen, where it was very deep and soft.
The vegetation on land was — as will be seen from the preceding
notes — scanty, the more so the further we came out toward the mouth
of the fjord, and the country behind the summer-camp was so barren
that it seemed incredible that musk-ox could exist on it. Animal life
was consequently very poor, and we saw no living thing the whole way
out of the fjord, and only very few traces of animals. The traces of
musk-ox were all old, and not a single one could with certainty be said
to have been formed since the return of the sun. The traces of hares
were fresher and somewhat more numerous, but we saw none of the
animals themselves, nor any ptarmigan, in spite of the many fresh
traces, particularly on the coast forming the south side of Sjælland’s
Sletten. Of foxes we saw more traces than anywhere else in NE Green-
land, and also one of a very large wolf. No sparrows or other
migrating birds were seen in spite of the advanced season, and the
general impression of the country as to animal life was one of utter
desolation.
Report on the expedition. 89
Attempt to reconstruct the last journey of Mylius-Erichsen.
Pitt,
When Captain Amprup drew up his “Report on the Danmark-
Expedition”, (Meddelelser om Grønland, Vol. XLI, and especially chapter G
of same, entitled “Last Journey of MyLius-ERICHSEN, HOEG-HAGEN and
JoRGEN BRØNLUND”, рр. 213—23) he had at his disposal the following
data upon which to determine their route:
1. JorGEN BRONLUND’S Diary.
2. HøEG-HAGEN's sketch-maps and drawings.
3. Myrıus-EricHsen’s verbal communication to Capt. Косн at Cape
Rigsdagen on the 27. May 1907, and finally,
4. the opinion of Capt. Косн regarding the route of the perished party
(see Medd. om Grønl. XLVI, No. 2, Pl. IV).
On the basis of information contained in the above the route was
conjectured to have been as follows:
Sledging westward from Cape Rigsdagen, the party headed into
Independence Fjord as far as the mouth of Hagen’s Fjord, entering which
they reached the bottom of same 30/5—1/6 and returned, proceeding
farther west along the south coast of Independence Fjord. Cape Grund-
loven was passed on the 5th of June, and Varde Point (the place where
MyLIus-ERICHSEN subsequently built his cairn: 1. e. Danish “Varde”’
and deposited his report) was reached about the 7th or 8th of June.
Here they turned and commenced the return journey along the south
coast of Peary Land to Cape Caroline Marie cutting from there across
to Cape Rigsdagen, arriving at Danmark’s Fjord once more on the 12th
of June.
This route made out by Capt. Косн is also laid down on the chart
in “Meddelelser om Grønland”, Vol. XLVI, No. 2, Pl. IV.
A new document has, however, now come to light, which entirely
upsets this theory and at the same time furnishes the means of deter-
mining the actual route followed by the party with greater certainty
than before and containing besides information of an important discovery.
This document is MyLrus-ERICHSENS report, found on the site of his
summer-camp, and dated 8th August 1907. (see pp. 86—87).
Before proceeding to explain and discuss this new route, however,
reference must be made to Capt. Amprups Report which, it must be
born in mind, was written before the appearance of the document in
question. Captain Amprup has in Vol. XLI, No. 5, included this to-
gether with the other report found by the present writer in Danmark’s
Fjord in May 1910.
In this treatise Capt. Amprup has altered Myiius-ERICHSENS route
in accordance with the later information thus obtained. Capt. AMDRUP
1 In drawing the head of Independence Fjord the map of Кмор Ras-
MUSSEN has been used.
90 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
has also, in the same treatise, made mention of the important discovery
made by MyLius-ERICHSEN, not previously known, namely that Peary
“Channel” does not exist, and he gives him and his comrades the full
credit of this important discovery.
My.tus-ERICHSEN writes in his report:
“First-lieutenant HAGEN, the Greenlander BRONLUND and the under-
“signed on May 28th, 1907 at the North-east Naze of this land (ca. 82°04’
“М. Lat., са. 22° W.Long.) left the sledge-party of First-lieutenant Косн....
“We drove westward with 23 dogs until the Ist of June, and reached
“Peary’s Cape Glacier, discovered that the Peary Channel does not exist;
“Navy Cliff is connected by fast land with Heilprinn Land. We re-
“named Independence Bay the Independence Fjord, and built a cairn
“(with report) on a low point near Cape Glacier. On the way out through
“the Fjord, we discovered and explored two side-fjords — “Bronlund’s
"Fjord" towards the north-west and “Hagen’s Fjord“ towards the
“south-east, and built a cairn (with report) at the last mentioned. Also
“discovered old tentrings’”.
On comparing this report with the information concerning this
part of the journey furnished by JoRGEN BRONLUND’s diary, the data _
upon which previous accounts and conjectures of the route have been
based will be found to have another meaning, agreeing, moreover, entirely
with MyLius-ERICHSEN’S own statements.
The route into and out from Independence Bay would roughly be
as follows:
28/,. Leave Cape Rigsdagen.
(according to MYLIUS-ERICHSEN's report and Koch).
2%/,. Reach mouth of Hagen’s Fjord.
(according to HoEG-HAGEN’S sketch map and sketch").
1. At Varde Point near Cape Glacier.
(according to Myzius-ERIOHSEN’S report, HoEG-HAGEN’s
sketch of land, Pl. IX?, and Jorgen BRØNLUND'S diary).
5/5. Pass Cape Grundloven.
(this would appear to be the most probable date judging
by the name given to the cape).
12/,. At summer camp in Danmark’s Fjord.
(according to MYyLIus-ERICHSEN'Ss Report).
These are the only absolutely certain dates; we may, however,
on the basis of these and in conjunction with Myzrus-ERICHSEN‘S re-
port, Hors-Hacen’s sketch maps and JORGEN BRØNLUND'S diary,
draw up a more detailed route, as follows:
On the 28/, the sledge party left Cape Rigsdagen, moving westward
1 Amprup, Medd. om Grønland, vol. XLI, рр. 221—223. Pl.V & VIII.
2 The plate number here and in the following refer to vol. XLI, No. 1.
Report on the expedition. 91
into Independence Bay, and reaching on the following day the mouth
of a bay later named Hagen’s Fjord. This fjord however, was not ex-
plored at the time, the party pushing on to Cape Glacier.
By the 3°, they must have passed this fjord, since JORGEN Ввох-
LUND writes:
“May 30th. The weather had become calm. From the other fjord?
“there came a slight wind which we had at our backs .... A little
“after 6 in the evening started again in the direction of Cape Glacier.
“We were moving westwards in a large sound’’?.
At the end of the second day’s sledging, the party probably camped
at a spot a little beyond Cape Peter Henrik. With regard to the third
day’s journey, which commenced on the evening of the 30th, JORGEN
BRONLUND writes:
“We wanted to sight the place reached by Peary? but did not
“get so far, and without having it above the horizon we had to make
“a halt; we drove along a hilly stretch of coast, tending smoothly to-
“wards the west by south and stopped early in the morning of the 31st
“of May, after having covered 36 miles’’4.
These 36 miles which, according to BRONLUNDS note, were covered
in a westerly direction from the mouth of Hagen’s Fjord would bring the
party to the mouth of Astrups Bay, which agrees with the statement
in BRONLUND’s diary, when he expressly mentions that the lie of the
land was south of west. Up to this point the general direction —
according to the map — had been westerly, even tending slightly to-
wards north.
On the 1/, JØRGEN BRONLUND writes:
“In the night we at last sighted the place we wanted to see’’®.
The sledge-party must here assuredly have reached Varde Point,
and not as previously supposed, the inner termination of Hagen’s Fjord.
This agrees both with MyLius-ERICHSEN'S report and with the sketch
of the land from the termination of Independence Fjord, made by Horc-
HAGEN. Moreover, BRONLUND had throughout referred to Cape Glacier
as being their final objective.
Varde Point was most likely reached on the morning of the 1/,,
HoEG-HAGEN’S sketch from here being dated 1/,. Had they arrived
in the evening, there would probably have been no time for surveying
work or making sketches, as they would have been obliged to rest first.
The party must have remained at the bottom of Independence
Fjord until the 4th of June inclusive. BRONLUND writes:
1 Hagen’s Fjord. Note by author.
3 Glacier Point. Note by author.
2, 4,5 Amprup, Medd. om Grønland, Vol. XLI, pag. 204.
92 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
“2 June. In the evening at 6 o’clock I went out hunting musk-
“oxen at a place ca. 8 miles away. I found a great number of tracks
“in the bay, but saw no animals. On the way back I saw again a seal
“on the ice; when I was calling for my dogs it heard me, and the moment
“I saw it, it dived down again. Hoping that it would reappear, I stood
“on the watch for it, but in vain”!.
“3 June. At noon I returned and found my comrades very anxious
“and on the point of setting out to look for me....?”.
BRONLUND mentions, quite casually, that he had found great num-
bers of musk-ox tracks in the bay, which lay some eight miles from
the camp. This bay must presumably be taken as being that part of
the bottom of Independence Fjord shown on HoEG-HAGEN’s drawings
(Plate ТУ & IX). The low-lying Peary Islands marked on the north
side of the bottom of the Fjord seem to indicate that the land beyond
must be comparatively low.
BRONLUND’s probable assertion that from there it was possible
to perceive with certainty that the channel did not exist, must presumab-
ly have persuaded Mytius-ERIcHSEN to devote yet one more of the
precious days to the task of checking BRØNLUNDS statement. There
could be no other reason for their going out after his return, since they
could not expect to find game where BRøØNLUND had been unsuccesful.
They did go out, however, for BRØNLUND found himself alone in
the camp, when he woke about noon on the 4th of June. This is evident
from the note in his diary:
“June 4th. At noon I awoke; on going out I managed to shoot
“two ptarmigans at one shot outside our tent. I rejoiced over this booty
“as we were quite destitute of provisions, having just the small quantity
“of meal for one more time. A little later I went out to the place where
“the inlandice merges into the sea, hoping there to meet with seals,
“but returned soon after without seeing any.... At 6 in the evening
“Мутлоз and HAGEN returned, also without any game®”’.
Myzius-ERICHSEN and HAGEN would then no doubt have employed
the time they had been away from the tent in checking BRONLUND’S
statement as to the non-existence of a strait. True, BRØNLUND himself
makes no mention whatsoever of the supposed channel being closed,
merely stating that they had failed to find game; but it must be remem-
bered, however, that this for him was a point of primary importance,
the appearance of the country being a subordinate feature, while his
companions would regard the latter as most important.
It is probably on the basis of observations made on this trip that
Myzius-ErICHSEN makes the very definite statement contained in his
1, 2,3 Amprup, Medd. om Grønland, vol. XLI, pag. 204—205.
"Puruno]
‘JAPUDM
7
1
‘SaYSUG IYYL 9S[09]
Report on the expedition. 93
report, where he writes that “Peary Channel does not! exist; Navy cliff
is connected by fast land with Heilprinn Land”.
It is practically certain, that Myirus-Ertcusen and HøEG-HAGEN
saw the “channel” landlocked; but there is, however, the possibility
that his statement was based on supposition, and indeed it appears at
first sight to be somewhat discounted by the fact that Horc-HaGEen
has not marked the bottom of Independence Fjord upon his map.
us element of doubt will be
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roughly drawn.
It is clearly evident, from the foregoing, that Myrius-ERIcHSEN
and his two comrades found the supposed channel closed, and that the
fact of Horc-Hacen’s not having marked the head of the bay on his
1 Underlined by Myrıus-Erıchsen. Note by author,
92 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
“2 June. In the evening at 6 o’clock I went out hunting musk-
“oxen at a place ca. 8 miles away. I found a great number of tracks
“in the bay, but saw no animals. On the way back I saw again a seal
“on the ice; when I was calling for my dogs it heard me, and the moment
“I saw it, it dived down again. Hoping that it would reappear, I stood
“on the watch for it, but in vain’”!,
“3 June. At noon I returned and found my comrades very anxious
“and on the point of setting
BRONLUND mentions, quit
bers of musk-ox tracks in th
the camp. This bay must pi
the bottom of Independence |
(Plate IV & IX). The low-h
side of the bottom of the Fjor
must be comparatively low.
BRONLUND’S probable as:
to perceive with certainty that
ly have persuaded Myrıus-E.
precious days to the task of
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could not expect to find game
They did go out, howeve
the camp, when he woke about
from the note in his diary:
“June 4th. At noon I a
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“the inlandice merges into tl
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“Myrıus and HAGEN returnec
MYLIUS-ERICHSEN and Ha
the time they had been away
statement as to the non-existe
makes no mention whatsoever
merely stating that they had f:
bered, however, that this for
the appearance of the country pemg a sunoramate Ieature, While nis
companions would regard the latter as most important.
It is probably on the basis of observations made on this trip that
MYLIUS-ERICHSEN makes the very definite statement contained in his
1,2,3 Amprup, Medd. om Grønland, vol. XLI, pag. 204—205.
Report on the expedition. 95
report, where he writes that “Peary Channel does not?! exist; Navy cliff
is connected by fast land with Heilprinn Land”.
It is practically certain, that MyLıus-EricHsen and HøEG-HAGEN
saw the “channel” landlocked; but there is, however, the possibility
that his statement was based on supposition, and indeed it appears at
first sight to be somewhat discounted by the fact that HoEs-HAGEN
has not marked the bottom of Independence Fjord upon his map.
On closer examination, however, this element of doubt will be
removed; the omission is simply explained by the fact that the paper
on which the chart was drawn was not large enough to permit of the
bottom of the fjord being included. There is no doubt that Hozc-HacEn
was of the same opinion as MYLIUS-ERICHSEN, for he has himself written
“Independence Fjord” on the finished chart, which he certainly would
not have done without having seen the bottom of the Fjord. And
as far as HøEG-HAGEN is concerned, the matter is rendered perfectly
certain by the fact that his sketch of the country about here is
marked distinctly: “Bottom of Independence Bay”, and the drawing
itself shows that the supposed sound is blocked by a glacier.
In addition to this we have his sketch map, compared with his
sketch of the country. On the sketch map Pl. V angles have been drawn
from Varde Point, presumably leading to the southermost point of Heil-
prinn land and to Navy Cliff. On the sketch points are marked off
to which bearings had doubtless been taken; these are, however, not
all shown on the map, which HoEn-HAGEN naturally did not think
would ever be of great importance.
On the sketch, Pl. IX, a glacier is shown filling the opening between
Peary Land and Navy Cliff, and on the carefully redrawn chart, PI. IV,
we find the beginning of a glacier stretching SSW from Heilprinn Land,
and called Marie Sophie Glacier. The paper was not large enough
to permit of this glacier being drawn in its whole length, but it must
certainly be the northermost end of the Marie Sophie Glacier, which
on Pl. IX is seen stretching across the supposed channel and connecting
Heilprinn Land with Navy Cliff.
On the sketch map Pl. V another set of angles are marked, taken
from out on the ice, as the trend of the land rendered it impossible to
see the opening between Navy Cliff and Academy Land from Varde
point. This set of angles embraces the opening in question. On the basis
of these two sets of angles, the drawing of the land and Ноес-
HaGen’s and PEARY’S maps, the head of Independence Bay can be
roughly drawn.
It is clearly evident, from the foregoing, that MYrius-ERICHSEN
and his two comrades found the supposed channel closed, and that the
fact of HøeG-HAGEN's not having marked the head of the bay on his
1 Underlined by Mytius-Ericusen. Note by author,
94 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
map is no reason for contesting their claim to this discovery, especially
when taking into consideration the existing proofs that HøEG-HAGEN
himself was entirely in agreement with My tius-ERIcHSEN on this point.
This is distinctly indicated by the angles on the sketch map (PI. V),
by the drawing made on the 1/, of the head of the fjord (Pl. IX), by
the direction of the Marie Sophie Glacier as drawn (Pl. IV) and finally
by the words “Independence Fjord” on the same map.
Horc-Hacen could naturally not suppose that his rough sketch
maps would come to serve as the basis of future maps of these northerly
regions, and probably considered Marie Sophie Glacier too insignifiant to
warrant a special survey, thinking it sufficient to indicate on the map
and drawings of the land that the supposed sound did not exist.
The return journey was probably commenced on the morning of
the 5th. As to this day, nothing can be said with certainty, as Bron-
LUND makes no special reference to it in his diary. HoEG-HAGEN’S
sketch map (PI. V), however, gives us one piece of information, viz:
that the sledge party had left Varde Point and moved up to Cape Harald
Moltke, from where some few angles were taken, and from where it was
possible to determine the approximate outline and extent of Bronlund’s
Fjord. Mytius-ErIcHsEN’s report gives some information concerning
the backward route; he writes of this part of the journey, as follows:
“On the way out through the fjord, we discovered and explored
“two side fjords — “Bıonlund’s Fjord” towards the northwest, and “Hagen’s
“Fjord” towards the south-east, and built a cairn (with report) at the
“last-mentioned. Also discovered old tent-rings”’.
It will be seen from this that Hagen’s Fjord was passed unsurveyed
on the outward journey, and the Eskimo tent-rings on Cape Peter Hen-
rik were probably found at the time when the fjord was partly surveyed.
The sledge-party must presumably have moved in а south-easterly
direction from Bronlund’s Fjord, until they reached the coast of Green-
land once more, following the same down to Danmark’s Fjord.
The greater part of Hagen’s Fjord was, however, in all probability
not explored at this time, but surveyed later in the course of trips made
from the summer camp westward across country, as HøEG-HAGEN's
sketch-map (Pl. У) shows angles from Himmelbjerget and from a cairn
on the east coast of the fjord, Hagens Varde (Slutstenen). The angles
embrace all prominent parts of the coast, which would not have been
necessary, had the fjord been explored previously by sledge, and in
view of the very difficult conditions under which they had to work
during the summer, it is hardly likely that MYLIUS-ERICHSEN and his
comrades would have undertaken the arduous task of carrying their
heavy surveying instruments some twenty miles over the country, if it
had not been for the purpose of surveying the last stretch of the coast.
Everything seems to indicate that the return-journey from Cape
Report on the expedition. 95
Glacier was made with all possible speed, and that no surveying was
done beyond noting such features as could be observed on the way.
According to My tius-ERICHSEN’Ss report the journey in as well as out
was attended with considerable difficulty. He writes:
“Mild weather suddenly set in, deep snow, melting ice-water on
“the ice, lack of big game, and sickness and loss of energy among the
“dogs made our journey out difficult and delayed us so much, that we
“only arrived here! on 12th of June”.
In view of these circumstances it must be considered as a quick
journey, seeing that the party arrived at the summer camp on the 12th
of June, having covered about 100 miles in 7 days, and with only 15
dogs alive of the 23, with which they had started on the journey to
Cape Glacier.
On the 14th of June an attempt was made to continue the home-
ward journey over Danmark’s Fjord. The party were however soon
obliged to turn back, the snow being so soft as to render progress im-
possible.
As regards the stay at the summer camp, from 12/5 to 3/, JØRGEN
BRONLUND’S diary gives fairly detailed informations, and Мугтоз ERICH-
SEN himself writes, in the report found on the place itself (pag. 86):
“Since then ? we have existed exclusively on the hunting, (7 musk-ox
“and one calf, 15 wild geese, 4 hares and 3 ptarmigan). Land surveying
“supplemented, the scientific collections added to, especially flowering
“plants, and plant and animal fossils. Called the land Kronprins
“Christian’s Land.
“Devoid of further food for ourselves and the dogs, having had
“no big game since July 16th, we must today* — after ferrying across
“to the fast ice on a ice-floe — with 14 dogs, two sledges and all our
“goods, seek better hunting grounds along the coast away from this
“perfectly desolate locality, which we have wandered over within an
“area of 20 miles. All three are quite well. Will endeavour to reach some
“miles further into the fjord lying to the south-west from here, which
“we explored in May, and called “Danmark’s Fjord”, where at that
“time we found good hunting of hares and musk-oxen. If we succeed in
“obtaining sufficient food, we intend, when the ice becomes passable,
“probably towards the end of the present month, to undertake the
“са. 500 miles journey back to the ship, which we hope to reach before
“the end of September, with or without the dogs”.
This extract from MyLius-ERICHSEN’S report, in conjunction with
what JoRGEN BRØNLUND has written as to their stay at the summer
camp gives so clear a picture of what has taken place as to render com-
1 The summer camp. Note by author.
? 12th of June. Note by author.
3 8th of August. Note by author.
96 Ejnar MIKKELSEN.
ment superfluous. One thing, however, may be pointed out; the sur-
veying which they carried out under such difficult conditions was a mag-
nificent and probably unparalleled piece of work, hardly to be appre-
ciated save by those who have themselves visited the spot and seen the
many cairns set up on the surrounding hills for this purpose.
We have here the evidences of unexampled energy and devotion;
it is only to be regretted that the detailed results of the surveys, made
at such a sacrifice, should have been lost.
On the 8th of August, as already mentioned, the party were forced
to abandon their summer camp, and the journey southwards, into Dan-
mark’s Fjord, proved a very toilsome and difficult piece of work.
JORGEN BRONLUND gives a fairly detailed account of this part of
the journey in his diary; My rus-Ericusen’s report, found at Ulve-
bakkerne, while it tells us but little that is new as to this section of the
route, yet serves to confirm BRØNLUNDS statements. He writes:
“Since we left our summer camp, about 44 miles from here, on
“August 8th, we have been obliged to kill 7 dogs as food for ourselves
“and the remaining dogs, while we were 15 days out on the sea ice
“our passage stopped two miles from land, by the water from the melting
“ice. At last, on August 25th, we reached land, and shot 4 hares”’.
This must have been somewhere in the neighbourhood of Cape
Kronborg; from here they sledged along the coast, after having depo-
sited everything not absolutely indispensable in a cache.
They now began to find game once more, and as the weather was
growing colder, they were able to work their way on southward, although
progress was but slow.
MyLIUus-ERICHSEN continues his report as follows:
“By short journeys day by day since then, we have moved our camp
“altogether some 32 miles into Danmark’s Fjord, constantly impeded in
“our advance to good hunting grounds by mild weather, impassable
“new ice, and lastly by open water from coast to coast”.
They had reached Ulvebakkerne at 81°25’ N., before the winter
ice in the fjord broke up, forcing them to abandon the sledge, with all
their gear, on the coast, after which they:
“Walked on foot over the hills, followed by the dogs, some 32 miles
“further into the fjord, to Sjælland’s Sletten, shot in all 15 young
“ptarmigan, 15 hares, 1 wolf, and 8 musk-oxen (2 bulls, 3 cows and 3 calves).
“Camped for a week under open sky, cooked our food by means of
“drift-wood, of which we found quantities along the coast, fed up the
“dogs, and transported the meat and tallow here to this place? which
“is the southermost spot in the fjord, we have been able to reach with
“the sledge ... Imagine we have had down to 15° of cold (Centigrade)
“during the past week”.
1 Ulvebakkerne. Note by author.
Report on the expedition. 97
` This abundance of game and the rather great amount of drift-
wood which they were fortunate enough to encounter, rendered it pos-
sible for Myzius-ERICHSEN and his two companions to remain quietly
in the vicinity of Sjelland’s Sletten, until the autumn was so far ad-
vanced and the weather cold and constant enough to let the young
ice settle down, whence the homeward journey could begin,
The question of the journey home would assuredly have formed
a daily topic of conversation throughout the summer, and there were
probably two plans: one, to follow the coast and the other to make
their way across the Inlandice from the base of Danmark’s Fjord to Lam-
bert’s Land.
The latter project doubtless appeared the more promising of the
two, presenting as it did one considerable advantage over the other,
viz: that the homeward journey could be commenced much earlier
than would be the case if they were forced to wait, until the young ice
along the outer coast should be strong enough to permit their sledging
on it; this is, however, all that could be said in favour of the route in
question, which presents many and serious difficulties, the chief of which
would be the ascent of the Inlandice. This they would always be obliged
to consider as an unknown factor, which might overthrow their plan
entirely, and from what HøEeG-HAGEN said to Capt. Косн*, on the
occasion of their meeting at Cape Rigsdagen he does not appear to have
believed that it would be possible to make the ascent. Moreover, even
if this difficulty should be overcome, there would still be the long journey
over the Inlandice, where fissures and rugged ice would hinder and
delay their progress. Even for a well-equipped expedition such a journey
would be a matter of considerable difficulty, and for MyLius-ERICHSEN
and his comrades, situated as they were, it would be almost impossible
to accomplish it. They lacked everything that was necessary, clothes
and gear, and most important of all provisions. Even if they had meat
on the sledges when making the ascent, there was always the possibility
of unforeseen delays from various causes, and if their provisions should
give out while on the Inlandice there would be no means of obtaining food.
The alternative route, on the other hand, viz: along the coast, offered
so many advantages in comparison with the only one point in favour
of the Inlandice — i. e., the earlier start, and even that was doubtful —
that it was only natural to finally decide on the route along the coast.
In the first place, the distance would be about the same, whether
they went overland or along the coast. There were, moreover, depots
along the coast; which, though not large, were yet large enough to furnish
a very valuable support and save them from absolute starvation, espe-
cially when taken in conjunction with the game which they might with
some degree of certainty expect to find.
1 Amprup, Medd. om Grønland, Vol. ХМ, pag. 216.
LI. 7
98 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
Finally, a point of great importance, they would, by choosing the
coast route, have the advantage of moving over familiar ground, and
there would also be a possibility of meeting the relief-expedition, which
they expected would be sent out from the ship.
Nevertheless, when they left the summer-camp, it was doubtless
MYLIUS-ERICHSEN'S intention to sledge home over the Inlandice, induced
thereto by the prospect of making a start as soon as they had found
sufficient game. Provided the winter-ice in Danmark’s Fjord still held
— and there was no reason for supposing otherwise — they would be
able to sledge over this and on the new ice formed over thawholes and
cracks, at a time when the coast would still be quite open.
This plan, however, was abandoned during their many days’ stay
on the ice, and when they left their depot at Cape Kronborg, it was
in all probability with the intention of proceeding homewards along the
coast, as it would otherwise have meant a considerable amount of extra
work to fetch their gear from there: they could not possibly say how
far they might have to go on into Danmark’s Fjord before finding game.
The unexpected rise in the temperature and the still more unexpected
breaking up of the ice, which left them face to face with open water
stretching from one coast to the other, led them to decide on the safer
route along the coast, and even if they had still wished to go overland,
this would have been impossible, for a somewhat peculiar reason. My-
LIUS-ERICHSEN writes in report found on Ulvebakkerne:
77
1 dee further mm SL nob ee
It would only be natural to suppose that the young ice would
quicker get solid farther up in the comparatively narrow fjord, where
it would not be exposed to very heavy pressure, than out towards the
open sea, where shifting winds and currents would keep the ice in motion,
long after it had become firm and solid im closed waters and narrow
fjords. That the ice, as seen from Ulvebakkerne, should appear safer
to the north than farther southwards can scarcely have been other
than an accidental circumstance, a circumstance, however, to which
they attached the greatest importance, coinciding as it did with their
own wish to find some reason, which they themselves could deem suffi-
cient to warrant thus relinquishing their original plan of crossing the
Inlandice.
On the 12th of September, they started from Ulvebakkerne, at
81°25’ N. on their homeward journey, according to MYLIUS-ERICHSEN'S
report under favourable conditions. He writes:
“HAGEN, BRONLUND and undersigned — all well — leave to-day this
“place, called “Ulvebakkerne” with one sledge and seven dogs, to begin
“our return journey to the ship on the new ice, which has to-day at
“last become safe .... The ice further in still not safe, otherwise had
“considered the possibility of returning via the Inlandice from the head of
Report on the expedition. | 99
“Danmark’s Fjord to the fjord at са. 79° №. Lat. ... Taking on the sledge
“drift wood for 8 days’ cooking and over 300 Ibs. of meat, which is suf-
“ficient food for ourselves for 16 days, and 8 days for the dogs. Will
“follow the Fjord eastward the,ca. 144 miles out to the outer coast, and from
“there with the help of the depots laid out there in the spring, and bear
“hunting, we hope to be able to reach the ship safely in 5—6 weeks”.
It will be seen from the above that they were well equipped, and
they had no lack of fuel, since they left behind them by the cairn a piece
of wood large enough to serve for four or five cooking fires.
The first point on the homeward journey was Cape Kronborg,
where they loaded up on the sledge everything that had been left at
the depot there on the 25th of August. It is inconceiveable that anything
should have been left behind, as the range of coast to which any such
depot must necessarily be confined, is so short and narrow, and was,
when we visited the place, so bare of show that nothing could have
escaped attention, especially as the ground was examined three times
over.
On leaving Cape Kronborg the dogs must have been in good con-
dition, since the party were able to draw the heavy loads which meat,
fuel, personal and other effects would make, and they would doubtless
make good going over the newly frozen ice.
From Cape Kronborg they must have shaped their course for Prins
Frederik Islands, and from there eastward again. Had they, at this point,
been forced to abandon their project on account of thin ice or for other
reasons, and decided to sledge down along the east coast of Danmark’s
Fjord, they would most assuredly have built a cairn there, and left a
report, as these low-lying islands would lie directly on the route of any
search-party proceeding towards the western coast of the Danmark’s
Fjord. They would thus have been able to consider it as certain that
the search-party, which they continually expected would be sent from
the ship, and which they knew must come up along the coast, would
be at once set on the right track and not have to cross to the west coast
of Danmark’s Fjord, where also they would find only misleading in-
formation — viz: the reports left at the summer-place and on 81°25’
N. Lat.
It may therefore be regarded as certain that MYLIUS-ERICHSEN,
on leaving Prins Frederik Islands, turned his back on Danmark’s Fjord
without any intention of returning. Moreover, the party must have
been hopeful as to future progress, since they found no occasion to build
a cairn and leave a message at such a conspicuous spot.
We may still, however, follow them with certainty some distance
further on their homeward journey. The party must have passed Prin-
sesse Dagmar Peninsula, where Myrivs-EricHsEn had left a depot on
the way up containing some 26 kg of dog-pemmican and the cooking-
Q*
100 Esnar MIKKELSEN.
box, and this depot we did not find. It is true, that we had no knowledge
as to whether any provisions were left there, and did not therefore make
any direct search, but circumstances forced us to sledge on the inner
side of the tidal fissures and often on the beach itself, and we did саге-
fully examine everything we passed in the hope of finding some evidence
to show that MyLIus-ERICHSEN and his comrades had reached so far.
It should also be remembered that this depot was laid down at
the beginning of May, and of course on a spot then free from snow.
Such a spot would of necessity be at least equally bare when we passed,
more than a month later in the year, and it would be impossible to avoid
seeing two such large objects as the tin of dog-feed and the cooking-
box. These must therefore have been removed by the party on their
return-journey.
The next depot was situated about 60 miles farther to the east
at 81°30’ and consisted according to Capt. Косн of
tins of pemmican a 0.5 kg.
tin of cabbage and farcemeat a 1.0 kg.
tins of pease meal a 0.25 kg.
litres kerosene.
26 kg dog-pemmican.
DS DO rl DO
We found the depot on the top of a little island or possibly beach,
the spot itself, as well as the ground in the immediate vicinity, being
so bare of snow, that we also found several fragments of rope which
had been chewed by the dogs, some rags and empty tins. But of the
provisions only the following remained:
2 tins of pemmican a 0.5 kg.
1 tin of cabbage and farcemeat a 1.0 kg.
2 tins of pease meal a 0.25 kg.
The two litres of kerosene and the 26 kg. of dog-pemmican, how-
ever, were missing.
MYLIUS-ERICHSEN and his comrades must thus have reached this
spot; it is impossible, however, to formulate any suggestion as to why
they should have left the 5 small tins of provisions behind. It would
be natural to suppose that they would welcome a change of diet after
having lived so long exclusively on meat. The fact, however, at least
serves to show that they must have been well supplied when they reached
here, and had fully recovered their strength; they must also have found
game after leaving Sjelland’s Sletten, since they were able to disregard
so comparatively considerable an amount of food.
That they should have taken the kerosene is a matter of course;
fuel, and that of an economical sort, is of enormous importance when
sledging. It is less easy to understand why they should have taken the
dog-pemmican, if they had so much meat on the sledge that the men
Report on the expedition. 101
could afford to neglect the provisions contained in the depot; it would
be natural to suppose that there must also be enough for the dogs.
The most reasonable explanation would seem to be that they had
already realised that they would be forced to go up on to the Inlandice
in order to reach Lambert’s Land, and therefore took the dog-feed with
them, as this, being much more concentrated than fresh meat, would
save them a great deal of extra weight.
At this depot, on 81°30’, the last trace of the ill-fated men is lost;
they must have made their way up to on the Inlandice between this
and the next depot on Amdrup’s Land.
We have still two points to consider, viz: why MYLIUS-ERICHSEN
abandoned the coast, and where?
As regard the first question, there can be but one answer — open
water. The journey was undertaken in early autumn, when the new
ice would be very thin and liable to break up, thus rendering sledging
extremely risky.
In Danmark’s Fjord they were sledging over new ice as early as
12th September; it is possible, however, that Prinsesse Thyra Island
may have helped the young ice to get solid by preventing the pack-ice
outside from pressing too hard upon the thin ice sheets, which would
thus, when left undisturbed, become thick and fairly solid long before
the ice on the open coast had bound together.
In the bay between Prins Frederik Islands and Prinsesse Dagmar
Peninsula, there may perhaps have been old ice, as the prevailing northerly
winds would prevent the winter ice from drifting away. Sledging thus
far may therefore have been, and very probably was, a fairly easy matter.
From Prinsesse Dagmar Peninsula, however, it must doubtlessly
have been a very difficult matter to sledge along the coast on the sea-
ice, this stretch being entirely unprotected, and the ice would probably
not freeze solid before very late in the year, certainly later than the
time when Mytius-ERICHSEN and his companions passed that way.
It is possible, however, to sledge from Prinsesse Dagmar Peninsula to the
depot at 81°30’ over the Inlandice, save when passing Nakkehoved.
The Inlandice is here on Kronprins Christian’s Land quite low, sloping
gently down into the sea, which probably has no great depth, as we
noticed several icebergs and old floes, which must have been aground.
The sledging around Nakkehoved is probably also possible early
in the spring, owing to the large pieces of ice stranded in the rather
shallow water, and this ice will tie up the young ice.
MYLIUS-ERICHSEN would in all probability keep as far as possible
to the low edge of the Inlandice, thus avoiding the thin and dangerous
sea-ice along this stretch. From 81°30’ southwards, however, it was
a more difficult matter.
In the first place, the sea is deeper here; we did not see a single
berg aground when we passed. Moreover, the Inlandice, besides sloping
102 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
far more steeply here than on the other side of Nordost-Rundingen, breaks
off precipitously towards the sea in a glacier wall, often of considerable
height. The Inlandice is here full of fissures, and to sledge along the
edge would be, in our opinion, almost impossible. The lack of grounded
bergs and floes would prevent the new ice from settling, and this part
of the journey has doubtless proved so difficult that My Lrus-ERIcHSEN
and his comrades decided to abandon the coast route, as soon as they
found a favourable place, at which they could make the ascent to the
Inlandice.
From Amdrup’s Land southward to Lambert’s Land the Inlandice
does not reach out to the sea; if therefore they had already realised that
the coast route was impracticable, they would have to make the ascent
north of Amdrup’s Land.
In accordance with the view of Capt. Amprup and Koch! the
ascent was probably made at the base of Antarctic Bay, where condi-
tions generally would be favourable. This theory is supported by the
last entry in BRØNLUNDS diary — the only one, by the way, concerning
the homeward journey. He writes on the 1/,,:
“In the afternoon we came up on the Inlandice. The ascent took
“us four days. The fifth of the remaining dogs has now also died, butted
“to death by a musk-ox”’.
Amdrup’s Land is the first place on the outer coast where a sledge-
party coming from the north would find musk-ox?, and they cannot
have reached beyond Amdrup’s Land, as the depot here was untouched.
Here, then, the ascent must have been made, and they probably
remained some days at the spot, as JØRGEN BRØNLUNDS diary contains,
between the two last entries, a verse, the beginning of an essay on the
legend of the Polar Eskimos, and some recollections of the stay at
Cape York.
One does not write things of this sort on a sledge-trip, unless one
has been resting for a few days, and certainly not unless provisions are
sufficiently plentiful to leave no cause of anxiety for the immediate
future. They must have found plenty of seal, etc. on their way down
along the coast, since we can see that they had no lack either of provi-
sions or fuel (i. e. blubber). That they probably had no need to econo-
mize in this latter respect is evident from the fact that BRONLUND spent
some time writing for his own amusement in the tent, from which it
follows that they must have had fuel enough to warm the place at least
during some part of the day; otherwise it would have been too cold
to write more than was absolutely necessary.
MYLIUS-ERICHSEN and his companions have doubtless found their
further progress from Amdrup’s Land southward checked by open water,
1 Amprup, Medd. om Grønland, Vol. XLI, pag. 218.
2 ibid.
Report on the expedition. 105
and аз the glacier had given place to a low, clayey foreshore, it was im-
possible to go farther, until the ice had frozen solid once more.
This was probably what they were waiting for, and it is presumably
during this period of inaction, spent under fairly comfortable condi-
tions, that BRØNLUND wrote the essay, etc. referred to above. And
the party must probably have grown tired of the long delay, before the
ice became solid, and they therefore decided to give up waiting and
to go over the Inlandice to Lambert’s Land, from where they could
travel on the floating Inlandice.
It is, however, surprising to note that the depot on Amdrup’s Land
should have been left untouched, and that none of the party should
have seen any occasion to make the comparatively short journey
from Antarctic Bay to Sophus Mollers Nes to fetch this food. But we
have already seen, in the case of the northernmost depot, that for some
reason or other they wished to spare the provisions of the different
depots, and the same reason might have served here.
But this fact also tends to show that the party must have had
abundance of food, as there was a good supply here, especially of dog-
feed. Neither Муттоз-ЕвтснзЕМ nor any of his comrades can how-
ever have visited the place at all, since the messages left by Косн and
THOSTRUP in a tin at the depot were still there, when we arrived.
We can thus follow the three men in their attempt to get back
to the ship, as far as Antarctic Bay. From the time of their ascent on
to the Inlandice, however, on the 19th of October according to Bron-
LUND, all trace of them is lost, until we find them again in Lambert’s
Land, where, as we know from the final entry in BRØNLUNDS diary,
Horc-Hacen died on the 15th of November.
As to this part of their terrible journey, but little can be said; once
up on the Inlandice, they would be forced to go on, until they reached
Lambert’s Land. We know with some certainty where they went up
(Antarctic Bay), and where they came down (79° Fjorden); and the route
between these two points must be drawn round behind the great masses
of Holm’s Land which lie between the Inlandice and the sea.
_ The journey over the Inlandice must have taken much longer time
than the three brave men had reckoned on; the darkness, in conjunction
with the violent autumn storms, must have caused them unexpected
delays, apart from the difficult nature of the ground to be passed, where
crevasses and chasms would force them to make long detours, and make
the whole undertaking very hazardous, as the snow-bridges, which span
the crevasses in spring are partly lacking in the fall of the year.
As to the exact place where they made the descent, nothing can
of course be said with certainty: I am inclined, however, to agree with
Capt. Amprup! in supposing that the spot where they pitched their
1 Medd. om Grønland, Vol. XLI, pag. 219.
104 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
tent for the last time, and where HøEG-HAGEN and MyLius-ERICHSEN
died, was the westernmost of the two small fjords, which run from the
northward down into Lambert’s Land.
The tent was most likely pitched on the ice, as there would hardly
be snow enough on land so early in the year, and when we reached this
fjord in the autumn of 1909, two summers’ thaw had passed over the
spot. The ice had been broken up and the tent with the last remains
of the two brave and enduring men had disappeared, together with
such indications as they might have left concerning the spot where
HoEG-HAGENS journals were to be found, or informations regarding
what had become of them.
It is possible that these were left, as Captain AMDRUP! supposes,
at the place where the ascent was made; in my opinion, however, there
are certain points which seem to indicate that this was not the case.
In the first place, the three men probably never dreamed that they
were setting out on what was to be their last journey. When they ascended
the Inlandice, they must have had plenty of meat, since they were able
to exist for so long — nearly a month — and they could certainly not
expect the journey to take anything like that time, the distance being
only about 150 miles.
In addition to this, had they considered the journey as being of so
dangerous a nature as to render it advisable to leave their diaries behind
in the hope of their being found later on, they would have made every
effort to deposit them somewhere out on the coast, particularly at a depot,
where future sledge-parties might he expected to pass, and not at the
bottom of a deep bay. And to leave the originals behind and take a
copy with them would seem, in my opinion, a somewhat unnatural
method of proceeding. Under such conditions as these a copy might
be left behind, as it was of much less value than the diaries and would
be of no account, if the party succeeded in getting through. If they —
on the other hand — had left the originals, it would mean a long journey
to fetch them, whereas a copy might be left where it was. Should the
party however not come through, then the copy would be of great value
if found later on, as the results of the journey would appear from it.
Finally if they had, as Capt. AMDRUP supposes, divided the material
in such a way that BRØNLUNDS diary and copies of the maps would be
all that got through, they would in all probability have made some
note to this effect in the diary, as well as some indication of the spot
where the originals were left. It must be remembered that if the diaries
were deposited anywhere in a depot, with the intention here suggested
and in the hope that someone would find them later on, then here had
been plenty of time to consider what was best to be done, and they
would certainly have thought of making the note in BRØNLUNDS diary.
1 Medd. om Grønland, vol, XLI, pag. 221.
Report on the expedition. 105
It appears to me more likely that the division of the diaries, etc.
was made up on the Inlandice, from apprehension as to the numerous
crevasses which they must have encountered there. It is more than
possible that one or other of the party may have been in danger of fal-
ling down a crevasse, or they may have feared to lose the sledge and
all its load by a similar accident. In such cases, the natural course is
to stow away on ones person such things as are considered most essen-
tial; they would therefore divide the material in such a manner that
even if one of the party should be lost, the others would yet have sufficient
to ensure that the results of their work should not be altogether de-
stroyed, if only one man came through.
Assuming this theory to be correct, it is easily understood that
nothing else was found on BRØNLUND save his journal, the copy of the
map and the original land-sketches, as the rest would have been carried
by the other two. This material found on BRØNLUND would be enough
to give a fair idea of the happenings of the party and primarily the results
of the splendid journey, consisting of the map of new land passed on
the route.
This theory, however, fails to satisfactorily answer the question:
Where are the diaries?
If Capt. Amprup’s supposition be correct, viz: that My tius-Ericu-
SEN died two days after HøEG-HAGEN, BRØNLUND being away at the
depot to fetch provisions, then it may well be imagined that he (Bron-
LUND), after the conclusion of the journey over the Inlandice, still bore
on his person the sketch-maps entrusted to his care, while the remainder
was left behind in the tent in care of the other man.
When BRØNLUND returned and found his friend MyLius-ERICHSEN
dead and knew that absolutely nothing more could be done, then he
he had only one desire — to get away, to try to reach home without any
further waste of time. He might have thought that he had enough
material on him to show the results of the journey, and would possibly
not disturb his dead friend or — being a Greenlander — dared not
touch a dead man.
Whatsoever his thoughts he might be right in conjecturing that
the material he had would serve for a time, and he might even have
had hopes — and not wholly without reason — of his safe return to
the ship, from where it would be an easy matter to fetch the journals
in the coming spring.
And when death was at last overtaking the brave and undaunted
Greenlander, then still he thought of his dead friends and was desirous
of explaining to those who might find his body, where the other two
had died, and where the original fieldnotes were to be found.
The location of this place seems not absolutely certain after Bron-
LUNDS written directions, but he must have thought them satisfactory
himself, and he died with the proud thought that he had saved the re-
106 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
sults of the expedition and given explicit directions as to where his
two comrades, together with all that was left of their outfit, was to be
found.
If these remains had been looked for the same spring that Bron-
LUNDS body was found, then they would possibly have been found
at the mouth of the small fjord, mentioned above, but this did not hap-
pen, and two thaws and two winters erased all signs of the last resting
place of MyL1us-ERICHSEN and HOEG-HAGEN.
The return-journey from Cape Rigsdagen to Mallemukfjzldet.
May 25th—July 3rd 1910.
The return-journey began under rather favourable conditions, as we
had provisions enough for 40 days on small but still sufficient rations.
and dog-pemmican enough for 12 days. The total weight of the load
was about 250 kg., and it was drawn by seven dogs, two of which however
were of no account. But we expected to get some game before long
and wanted, if possible, to keep the two dogs alive until then; however
not expecting them to work we only fed them on very small rations.
We were back-tracking to Myirus-ERICHSENS summer-camp, which
we left on May 28th at Ба. m. shaping our course for the Prins Frederik
Islands. The snow became very soft a short distance from land, but
we could nevertheless make a fair progress, as it was not deeper than
25—30 cm.
The Prins Frederik Islands were reached on May 29th at 8,30 a.m.,.
and we camped near them in order to make a careful search for traces
of Myzius-ERICHSEN and his party. The islands or skerries vsere low
and barren, and nothing whatever was found to indicate a previous
visit of human beings in this place. We were a little surprised at this,
as the island was an ideal place for a cairn, which could be seen very
far on the route which a party would follow when searching for
the missing men. The absence of a cairn with information indicates
on the other hand that the prospects of -MyLius-ERICHSEN and his
comrades when passing these islands had been good; otherwise they
would certainly have built a cairn containing information for the party,
which they believed to be looking for them.
Our next camping-place was very near Prinsesse Dagmar Peninsula,
which we reached on May 30th at 8,30 а. т., after a strenuous march
through the deep and soft snow, which covered the bay to the west of it.
Prinsesse Dagmar Peninsula is a low peninsula with a flat foreland,
which rises gradually to a height of about 100 metres. The Inlandice
floats out over its southern end.
Owing to the extremely soft snow on the sea-ice we were compelled
(on May 31st) to sledge on the low coast, which was rather bare of snow.
No traces were seen of Myrivs-ErıcHsEn and his party, nor of the
Report on the expedition. 107
depot, which he had left on the pensinsula when going west (Medd. om
Grønland, vol. ХМ, pag. 131), and it is evident that he and his com-
rades have been so far as this on their return-journey, as this depot
had been removed.
Foggy weather obliged us to make the day’s sledging short and to
take a rest, which was very welcome, as we felt extremely tired, and
the dogs were played out. A goose — the first migratory bird which we
had seen this year — flew over our tent to the NW.
Оп the evening of May 31st, shortly before starting, we saw to our
surprise what appeared like open water in the SE with small pieces of
ice floating about in it. It proved to be an optical delusion, similar
to the one described by Capt. Амовор in Medd. om Grønland, vol. XX VII
pag. 53, and no water at all was found in the vicinity.
During the night of June Ist the snow became so soft that we were
compelled to unload half of our outfit on the ice and proceed with the
rest in order to advance at all, and even then, although the weight of
half the load was but 100 kg. our progress was so slow that we did not
reach the coast just east of Prinsesse Dagmar Peninsula before June 2nd
at 6,30 a.m. The next sledging day was spent in bringing up to our
tent the remaining half of our stores.
We had camped on what we thought to be the coast of the main
land after having passed two low and small islands, but it turned out
that we had put up our tent on the north side of a third and rather
large island, just off the main land.
On June 3rd at 10 p.m. we proceeded once more with all our stores
in one haul and climbed its top (30 metres high) to get a better view of
the surroundings. The island, on which we stood, was almost circular
with a diameter of 3 miles and separated from the glacier on the main
land by a strait 11% mile broad. To the NW we could see the two small
islands, which we had passed (each about 1 mile in diameter). They
were quite low.
To the east, at a distance of about 3 miles, there was a long appa-
rently narrow ice-peninsula, the silhouette of which was saddle-backed
so that for the 3 miles farthest out it almost appeared as an island joined
on to the main land by a rather low and narrow tongue of the Inlandice.
The ice-covered coast of Kronprins Christian’s Land was visible far
to the east above this peninsula, and likewise the high Nakkehoved was
plainly to be seen.
The view to the south was that of the gradually rising Inlandice,
very much broken up and furrowed by many river-courses. Its height
was not particularly great. It looked like a long valley in the ice, not
much above water-level, extending far to the south in continuation of
the bay, which formed the western termination of the above-mentioned
ice-peninsula.
When on June Ч 3 a.m. we reached the place, which from
108 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
the distance we had deemed the best for crossing the peninsula, we were
stopped by a water-lane, 5 à 7 metres broad, which separated the sea-ice
from the Inlandice. We headed north along this lane and noticed, for
the first time, melting-water around the larger iceblocks and water on
the ice underneath the snow. Before long a place was found, where
ice drifted together had formed a somewhat passable bridge, over which
we reached the Inlandice. The surface was smooth, the snow rather
hard and the incline so small that we had only attained a height of 20
metres, 1 mile from the edge of the Inlandice, when progress was stopped
by the snowlayer bursting underneath us. The sledge, IVERSEN, myself
and one dog felt into the crevasse, but the sledge fortunately became
wedged so that we could crawl out, and only a few articles were lost.
The crevasse was 4 å 5 metres broad and about 20 metres deep, and its
bottom consisted of quite level sea-ice bare of snow. It took us a couple
of hours to save our sledge, and we did not continue sledging till
11 p.m. (Fig. 56).
The whole of the night of June 5th was spent in getting away from
the Inlandice, as progress on it appeared almost impossible because of
the numerous crevasses and river-courses, which were rarely separated
from each other by so much as 30 metres. The weather was at the
same time foggy and cloudy, and when it later on began to snow, it
was impossible to see even the largest undulations, before we tumbled
over or into them (Fig. 57).
We tried to let our dogs take the lead, but they too became nervous,
as they frequently fell into deep holes, and it was not till we found a way
of pushing our sledgemast ahead of us, thus forming a small, but quite
visible furrow in the snow, that we could go ahead, and even then only
very slowly. The whip-lash was tied to the other end of the mast, and
whenever we came to a river-course, we determined its grade and depth
by swinging the mast, just like a fishrod, and dropping the whip and
handle (7 metres long) into the river-course. Thus we formed a black
line across the snow and could see whether the grade was too steep or
the river-course too deep for the sledge. It was, however, too tiring
to make real progress in that way, and we had to stop at 4 а. т., as we
came to a river-course, so steep and deep that the whip-handle could not
reach the bottom and was suspended almost vertically.
We were surprised to find that the snow which fell on the sledge
and later on the tent melted, although the temperature was — 3° С.
On June 6th at 5a.m. we were able to continue. The weather was
fair, and almost immediately we got splendid going, ice which was quite
smooth without crevasses or river-courses. We headed straight for the
high mountain, Nakkehoved, and at 7 a.m. we passed a water-lane, similar
to the one crossed when ascending the Inlandice. We had about 1 mile
of sea-ice, till the next lane was passed, which like the other lanes’ we
had passed formed the line of demarkation between sea-ice and Inlandice.
MeEpp. om GRØNL. LIL.
PRR ot
eae oot i
00 0 he
Fig. 56. Crevasses on the Inlandice of Kronprins Christian’s Land. "/6 1910.
Fig. 57. Rough and pressed-up Inlandice on Kronprins Christian’s Land. 5/6 1910.
Mepp. om Свомг. ШТ.
eh.
dits.
D nu eS die
Fig. 58. Camping site on the inlandice on Kronprins Christian’s Land. Nakkehoved showing
in the background. 7/6 1910.
Fw
—
|
|
|
|
|
|
р
|
|
|
Fig. 59. Nakkehoved on Erik S. Henius’ Land, seen from the west, ‘/6 1910.
Report on the expedition. 109
The surface of the water in these lanes did not taste of salt, although we
became a little thirsty some time after drinking it.
The Inlandice remained quite smooth for the remainder of the day,
but the rather warm weather compelled us to camp at 9,30 а. т., as it
was impossible to force the sledge through the snow, which was by now
quite wet and slushy. The temperature was + 6°5 С. according to the
sling-thermometer, but it registered 19°2 when exposed to the direct
rays of the sun on top of our tent.
The journey was re umed at 11 p.m., and the whole of the morning
of June 7th we were sledging on the Inlandice, which was so flat, that
it was difficult to determine, whether we were on sea-ice or glacier-ice,
save for the fact that we passed the broad water-lane, whenever we
went from one to another. These lanes must have been open some
time, if not all winter, as heavy pressure-ridges of different thickness
of ice were seen like a high wall on the seaward side of the lane.
Camped at 8 a.m. — still on Inlandice just east of a flat nunatak
extending 2 miles in E—W direction. (Fig. 58).
We had been very much surprised of late to see the way in which
our dogs had acquired new strength as a result of the renewed feeding
of pemmican. They were fed on meat of musk-ox while in Danmark’s
Fjord, and each dog got at least 1 % kg а day. But their strength waned,
they lost flesh, and their tails were hanging down, until we once more
began to feed them on pemmican. Each of them had 400 от. a day,
and in the course of a week they acquired their usual strength and gene-
ral good appearance. Their strength still increasing we cut down the
rations to 350 gr. and (six days later) to 300 gr., which seems to be just
enough to keep a dog in working condition.
During the night of June Sth a gale sprang up from NE, accom-
panied by snow, and the weather did not abate sufficiently to allow
us to start till 3.20 a. m. As of late our route lay alternately over the sea-
ice and the smooth пап се, which had such a small elevation and
grade that it would often have been difficult to determine, whether
we were on the one kind of ice or the other, if we had not had the open
lanes to show the demarkation between the Inlandice and sea-ice.
This water-lane, which we had seen whenever we came to the outer
limit of the Inlandice, was all along of the same width, never exceeding
7 metres, and never less than 4 à 5 metres. It probably extends all
the way from Prinsesse Dagmar Peninsula to Nakkehoved and must
be formed by other agencies than melting; it was quite evident that
the two kinds of ice had been separated from each other by force, as.
the sharp and thick edges of the ice on either side of the lane made it
quite impossible that the lane should have owed its existence to
melting.
We came down from the Inlandice and camped near the shore off
the westernmost part of Nakkehoved (June 8th at 8.45 а. т.) (Fig. 59).
110 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
When we continued at 10.30 p.m., we found glare-ice close inshore
and made good progress, although I had to be driven on the sledge,
as I could not keep up with our dogs on my sore and swollen feet — a
result of beginning scurvey. We were not above 50 metres from the shore,
which was carefully searched for traces of MyLius-ERICHSEN; however,
without any results.
The land, when we visited it, appeared barren, but we saw excre-
ments of hares. A great number of ivory gulls were roosting on Nakke-
hoved, and there seem to be more birds here than we later on saw
at Mallemukfjeldet. No open water — nor indications of it — was
seen from the height of 100 metres, and the gulls must probably feed
in the water-lane along the north coast of Kronprins Christian’s Land,
which possibly indicates that this lane is an annual occurence. We
saw a bear-track, which may have been a couple of days old at the
foot of the mountain, and this was the first sign of game we had seen
since Fyen’s Lake.
A gale blew from SE during the afternoon of June 9th, but it was
possible to sledge, and we followed the quite low face of the glacier until
the early morning of June 10th, when we came to a very flat foreland
or small, outlying island — whether the one or the other we could not
see — and at 7a.m. we camped somewhere in the vicinity of the depot
on 81°30’ М. Lat. The gale was very strong at that time, and it was
not till late at night that it abated so much that IvErsen could go out
to look for the depot. He found it near the tent, and it only contained:
2 tins of pemmiean ee 1.0 kg
2 tins of pease meal & pork.... 0.5 -
1 tin of farce with cabbage .... 1.0 -
2.5 kg
while according to Medd. om Gronland, vol. XLI, pag. 120, it ought
to have contained:
2 tins of pemmican
2 tins of pease meal with pork
1 tin of farce with cabbage
2 litres of kerosene
1 box of dog-pemmican.
The 2 litres of petroleum were wanting as well as the dog-feed, and
it is thus evident that MyLius-ERICHSEN and his party must have been
here, passing by with good prospects for the immediate future and in
good condition, as they had not thought it necessary to take the few
kilo of men-provisions with them.
We reached the depot with the sledge on June 12th at 1.30 a.m.
and examined it once more very carefully. We found that the provi-
sions had been stowed into an empty tin of dog-feed, which had been
Report on the expedition. Tan
turned over, either by the wind or some animal, and the tins were lying
close to it. Some stones which had been piled up so as to form a small
cairn had been removed, but nothing was found underneath them.
Stones which had been used for fastening the tent were seen in at least
one place. Some few short pieces of rope were scattered about as well
as a couple of empty tins, but nothing else was found.
The low gravelled beach in front of the glacier, on which and along
which we were sledging, seemed to be the breeding place of rather great
numbers of geese, as we saw many on the wing and a very large flock
sleeping on the ground. We killed two.
The going was splendid to the south of Nordost-Rundingen, and we
made good progress along the low face of the Inlandice. The going
improved still more in the night between June 12th and 13th, when
the sea-ice, close to the Inlandice, was quite level and almost bare of
snow. The coast was hemmed in by a line of apparently grounded
icebergs, about 1 à 1% mile off the shore. They were very numerous,
lying close to one another, but they were all rather small and did not
rise to more than 20 metres above the level of the sea.
The melting-process must already have been going on for some
days, as small rivulets were trickling down the steep glacier front, and
melting channels had been formed through the snowbanks in front of the
glacier. Furthermore, the sea-ice was beginning to melt, and all the
tidal cracks or frost-cracks were open, the former about 30 à 50 em on
an average, and the latter only 10 cm.
A few seals were basking in the sun, but they were so shy that
they took to the water, long before we could get anywhere near them.
It surprised us very much not to see a single trace of bear, neither old
nor new, all the way from Nakkehoved. The geese had disappeared,
and the only birds which we saw were ivory-gulls.
When in the night between June 13th and 14th we got out into a
bay just north of Antarctic Bay we once more found snow on the ice,
and this was also the case, when in the night between June 14th and
15th we drove into Antarctic Bay itself; it was not till the morning
of June 16th, when once more close under land, that we got snow-bare
ice, broken up however, by rather broad tidal cracks and water-lanes.
Some seals were seen on the ice, but we could not get within shooting
range before they dived.
We reached the depot on Amdrup’s Land on Fane 16 at 4а. т.
(Fig. 60), and it was in all probability untouched, so Мутлоз-ЕвтснзЕМ
must have ascended the Inlandice somewhere between this depot and
the one on 81°30’ М. Lat.
The depot contained
PERMA. Sets doh en. 1.00 kg
pease meal & pork............ 0.25 -
farce with cabbage’ ........... 1.00 -
112 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
dog-feed for 3 teams for 2 days, as well as some meat now rotten, which
was carefully hidden away underneath some stones (by Косн) and
was surprisingly well preserved.
The depot contained all it was said to contain except about 10 kg
grease, which Koch had also left there and mentioned in a letter to
MYLIUS-ERICHSEN, which letter we found in a small tin. The missing
box may have been dragged away from the depot by a prowling bear,
which could smell the contents.
Judging by the fact that the provisions were intact save this tin,
and that the letters from Koch and ТнозтвоРр to My ius-ERIcHSEN
were untouched it may be presumed, almost with a certainty, that
MYLIUS-ERICHSEN and his men had not reached so far, but had taken
to the Inlandice somewhere to the north, probably at the bottom of
Antarctic Bay (as pointed out by Amprup, vol. XLI, pag. 218) and
with such ample provisions that they did not deem it worth while to
fetch the few kilo of men-provisions, which they themselves had deposited
there on the northward journey.
We had hoped to be able to give our dogs a good feed, when we
saw this large amount of dog-pemmican, but in spite of their being very
hungry our dogs would not eat it and infinitely preferred the rotten
meat deposited by Косн. ;
By this time I was so sick of scurvy that I could not leave the tent,
and IVERSEN went out alone, hunting on the low, flat foreland. He
shot one goose and did not see anything else. His impression is that
the land is extremely barren.
When we once more began to sledge on June 17th 2a.m. we were
very much surprised to see the thermometer register + 2° C and to no-
tice 5 cm of melting water on the surface of the ice. It was an astonish-
ing amount of water, which had thus been produced in the course
of one day, and it was probably only possible because of the high tem-
perature of the last few days, which had slowly warmed up the ice al-
most to the melting point so that a rather thick layer of surface-ice |
became transformed to water by the first temperature above zero. The
water was, however, drained away before ба. m.
Open water-lanes were now seen in all directions, and a few of those
were almost 1 meter broad (Fig. 61). А surprising amount of seals were
lying on the ice, but IVERSEN had not sufficient practise or patience
to approach within shooting range, before the seal took to the water.
Ivory gulls were seen as usual, whenever we had open water.
When we camped at 8 a.m. (June 17th) — about 3 miles east of
Cape Jungersen — we were once more on ice covered with snow, so
windblown and hard that it reminded us of the trying granular snow
on the Inlandice. The snow was so hard that we could not drive our
iron spade into it, but had to use the axe to make snowblocks for fastening
the tent. The snow was cut up in large sastrugi, but it became smoother
Mepp. om Свомь. LI.
Fig. 60. Amdrup’s Land. 15/5 1910.
о
an
NK
a
CE Ms
rd
ee
ie
Fig. 61. Open water lane in year-old ice.
Mepp. om Grent. LII.
Fig. 62. Mallemukfjældet seen from the north. 1/4 1910.
Fig. 63. Glacier just south of Mallemukfjældet.
Report on the expedition. 113
the further we got out into Ingolf Fjord. It was not till we were close
to land, on June 19th, that the ice once more became bare of snow.
There were heavy pressure-ridges near land about Eskimonesset,
and they compelled us to travel on the low gravelled beach, which was
nearly everywhere covered by snow. Remains of the Eskimos were
seen all along the coast, especially of tent-rings and meat-cäches, but
here in particular a large number of Eskimo relics were found scattered
about the snow-bare land. Some of these, which we found piled up
behind a large stone, may have been the things collected by Mytius-
ERICHSEN and his party, and which he had asked Косн to leave behind
for himself.
We found sledge-runners of split narwhal’s horn, darts, spearheads,
one nicely carved bonehandle for a knife and some peculiar flat discs
of bone, which must have been used as blades of paddles. The dises
had a diameter of about 25cm, and into them was cut an indenture 5 cm
broad and lcm deep, apparently to hold a handle which could be
lashed on to the discs through four small holes, two on either side. We
found in all seven of these discs, but the list of specimens found is not
correct, as my diary in which it was written, together with a description
of the specimens, was lost later on through a bear breaking into our
depot. We took with us as many of these relics as we could carry on
the sledge, but also these things were lost, as we became compelled to
leave everything behind.
Camped at 8,30 а. т. on Holm’s Land, a little beyond Feldestrand,
and there also we found some tent-rings and meat-câches.
Our tent was erected on the flat foreland about 10 metres above
sea-level, and close to us we found sure evidence of the disappearance
of the foreland, as half of a tent-ring had slid into the water.
From our camping site we had an extensive view of the ice-pack,
and we saw, for the first time, open water. It came rather close inshore
(about 2 miles off the coast), but it was only a long narrow pond of 10—15
miles in extent. Until now we had not even seen the slightest indication
of open water on our route along the coast, and it was a surprising dif-
ference from 1907, when Мутлоз-ЕвтснзЕем found open water all the
way from Mallemukfjældet to Nordost-Rundingen. Then bears, seals and
walrusses were seen and shot in great numbers, but this year we had
not yet seen a bear nor bear-traces save the single one at Nakkehoved.
However, we saw and shot at a bear, shortly after we had camped,
but it escaped, badly wounded.
When we broke camp at 10,30 p.m. (June 19th), we went to the
open water and followed its edge to the south, as the snow had melted
in this place, and the water was drained off. We saw some few mallemuks
(fulmars) and gulls and also a rather great number of seals in the water.
We had, however, before long to leave the good going along the
edge of the water and head for Mallemukfjældet, across a pressure-ridge
LIL. 8
114 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
— or rather a succession of pressure-ridges — which were very difficult
to pass on account of the soft snow in between the ridges, but once
under the high and steep Mallemukfjæld we found good going over level
ice, which was almost bare of snow (Fig. 62). The ice was as yet quite
solid, but all the frost-cracks were open and about 15 å 20cm wide,
while the snow on land was melting so fast that rivulets were trickling
down the slopes.
We camped at 11 a.m. (June 20th) just south of Mallemukfjældet
(Fig. 63) and in brilhant weather, but when we resumed the work at
11 p. m., it was cloudy, warm and foggy. We headed up the fjord fol-
lowing the coast as closely as possible in order to find the depot, but
we went beyond the place without seeing it and camped at Та. т. (June
21st).
The melting process went on fast, owing to the warm weather, and
the ice frozen on to the bottom near the shore was already overflowed
with water.
The weather on June 22nd was wretched, warm and nearly rainy,
and the melting process went on so fast, that we could see the dimin-
ishing of the snow and ice from day to day. The whole day was spent
in trying to locate the depot, but in vain.
On June 23rd we tried to go across the fjord to Hovgaard Island
after having given up to find the depot and having left behind us all the
articles of outfit, which were not absolutely necessary; but the sledge got
stuck in slushy snow about 2 miles off land, and in a short time we had to
give up the attempt as impossible. We measured 30 cm of clear water
on the surface of the ice and crossed some large ponds, but much worse
than this was the wet, slushy snow, in which the sledge sank down so
that unloading became necessary in order to get out.
We talked the matter over carefully and decided to wait on the
coast of Holm’s Land, until the snow had melted away; then we would
try to get some game instead of wasting more time in this futile attempt
of crossing, and on June 23rd 7 a.m. our tent was erected on land.
Our resourses were as follows: for ourselves we had 20 kg of different
kinds of provision, which would last for twenty days on the same small
rations, which we had used since we passed Nakkehoved. For the dogs
we had about 20 kg of dog-feed from the Danmark-Expedition, but it
was of no great account, as the dogs would not eat more of this than
was absolutely necessary to prevent starvation, and they consequently
lost strength. Of kerosene we still had sufficient for 20 days, and of
ammunition we had as yet 180 ball-cartridges and 45 shotgun-cartridges. _
Our camping outfit was good, and we had still five dogs left.
The prospects for the immediate future consequently seemed fairly
good, as we were quite certain that we would get game, before our pro-
visions had come to an end.
The rest, which we were now compelled to take, was of vital impor-
Report on the expedition. 115
tance to me, as I was so weakened by scurvy that I could not stand
erect, but had to crawl from the sledge to the tent. But we hoped for
certain that this enforced rest and the fresh meat, which we thought
we were sure to get, would cure me so far that I could once more do
my share of the work.
On June 24th IVERSEN went north along the coast, looking for the
depot, but he returned without having achieved any result. He had
seen some ivory-gulls, but had not been able to shoot any of them.
On June 25th we were lucky enough to find the depot, not very
far from our tent. It had been covered by a small land-slide and was
only discovered, when IVERSEN found a small stick and close to it a
bear-cranium, so that he knew that the depot must be close at hand.
The provisions in the depot were unfortunately very much damaged
by water, which had got into the box through many holes, and all the
crackers and other products of flour were scarcely anything but a lump
of mould. Some tins of provisions were rusted through and the con-
tents partly spoiled, but it was still a great addition to our stores, and
we ventured to increase our daily ration a little. Of dog-feed we found
almost 50 kg, but unfortunately of the same kind as before, which the
dogs would only eat in extremities.
Furthermore we found one box of clothes and a box containing a
large number of odds and ends, most of which however became very
useful.
There were also 20 litres of kerosene, a box of shot-cartridges, a
broken-down carbin, and at last we found two letters to Мутлоз-Евтсн-
SEN, one from Косн and the other from Tuostrup. The latter con-
tamed a much desired information — a complete list of what the depots
contained from here and southward.
On June 26th the weather became bad again with fog and rain,
and IVERSEN had no other result to show for the work of many hours
than one mallemuk.
I saw a large flock of geese on June 27th, unfortunately at a time
when IVERSEN was up the fjord looking for game. I tried to shoot the
geese, which swam about in a large pond, near the shore, but my hands
were so shaky from scurvy that I could not shoot straight. The weather
was wretched, but it changed for the better on June 28th, when IVERSEN
succeeded in shooting. a sea-gull.
We only saw very few seals on the ice and of bears, which we had
hoped to see in large numbers in this locality, we did not even see a trace.
On land we found no trace of musk-ox, and we saw only one hare, which
we shot. a
In short, the hunting was as bad as could be, and as it was only
too evident that we could not exist here, we made an attempt, on June
29th, to get across to Hovgaard Island, taking only half of our out-
fit on the sledge. It was, however, quite impossible at this early
8%
116 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
period, and our progress was effectually stopped 21, mile off shore by
slushy snow.
As we hoped that the hunting would give better results on the flat,
low foreland north of Mallemukfjældet we left our camping-site and moved
our tent to that place on July Ist.
This was eleven days after our arrival at Mallemukfjældet, and it
was surprising to see how rapidly the melting went on. When we came,
the water did not trouble us at all, but now we had to await low water
in order to get away from land and on to the sea-ice. All the snow lying
on the ice had melted, and large, deep ponds were all over its surface.
The cracks were very broad — 1 meter or even more — and became
broader, the nearer we got to Mallemukfjældet. Off this steep moun-
tain the ice was broken up in small floes, but the floes could not float
away, as the pressure-ridges, which lined the coast and which probably
were aground, kept the floes in place.
A large waterfall came tumbling down over the cliffs from the very
top of the high Mallemukfjæld and flung an immense amount of water
over the ice, wearing it away and stirring up a motion in the sea. This
motion, combined with the shifting tides and wind, caused the ice-floes
to drift about and to rub against each other, crushing the edges and
thus accelerating the destruction of the ice.
When we camped to the north of Mallemukfjældet, we could see that
the open water out to sea had not come much closer to land, and that in
spite of the many open lanes, which extended from the pressure-ridges to
it. Its N—S extension was as when we saw it last, but the general
impression was that the ice would drift off, the moment a strong wind
sprang up.
The day was a memorable one, because I was able to walk for the
first time since June 12th.
All of July 2nd was spent in looking for game, but without any results,
and IVERSEN again walked out to the open water on July 3rd. Two
mallemuks were shot, but one drifted away. The prospects of game
were, if possible, worse at this place than to the south of Mallemuk-
fjældet, and we returned to our old camping site on the evening of July
3rd, as we did not like to run the risk of being cut off from our outfit
by open water off Mallemukfjeldet.
When we came back, we saw that a bear had been near our camp,
and it would probably have been our booty, if it had not been for these
two days’ absence.
The Return-journey from Mallemukijeldet to Shannon Island.
July 7th—November 11th 1910.
The whole of July 4th was spent in making a much needed
alteration in our sledge, as we could not hope to make any progress,
Report on the expedition. 117
as long as our sledge would sink down into the slushy snow, often
1/; meter or more.
This we achieved by fastening the flattened sheet-iron from the
provision-boxes underneath the cross-boards of the sledge, so as to get
a comparatively smooth surface on which to drag the sledge, when it
sank far down into the snow, and the snow was so wet that it could not
support the runners. Two skies were lashed under this sheet-iron in
order to give it sufficient stiffening, and now we had a sledge, which was
serviceable on hard ice and almost equally good in slushy snow.
We made one more attempt to cross the Dijmphna Sound in the early
morning of July 45th, but we could not force the sledge through the
mixture of snow and water, which was so deep and soft that the sledge
capsized in it, and we ourselves fel into holes between the ice-blocks
— holes so deep that only the shoulders were above the surface of the
snow. The lakes on the ice had a great extent and a depth of as much
as half a meter. It was absolutely impossible to cross the fjord under
these circumstances, and we had to wait, until holes were melted in the
ice, through which the water could be drained off, and on July 6th we
were once more back at our old camping site.
A fourth attempt to cross the Dijmphna Sound was made on July
7th, and this time we were successful, as a good road was found on the
level ice outside the pressure-ridges, which filled the mouth of the fjord,
and at last — on July Sth — we were ready to leave Mallemukfjældet
with our remaining outfit.
We had been in the vicinity of Mallemukfjeldet from June 20th
to July 8th, and during this period we had only shot 8 sea-gulls and 1
hare. We had consequently been compelled to use more of our provi-
sions than we had expected, but we had still enough to last us until we
could reach Bagatellerne. The problem of food was, however, more
difficult as regards the dogs, of which we had only three left, seeing that
they would not eat the food found in the depots, and we had to feed
them on our scanty rations to keep them in comparatively good wor-
king trim.
The snow had entirely disappeared from the land during the eighteen
days we had been there, and larger or smaller rivulets were rushing down
the slopes through every little creak or valley. The vegetation on land
had become green, and buds were seen on the flowerplants, but no flowers
as yet; neither had the willows unfolded their leaves.
The animal life at the outer end of Dijmphna Sound was very scanty,
and even the fulmars, ivory-gulls and glaukos-gulls were few compared
for instance with the rookery on Nakkehoved. Of other birds we saw
some geese, a few snow-buntings, one owl and one loom. On land we
noticed but one hare and two foxes, and saw no traces of musk-ox.
On the sea-ice we saw some few seals and the traces of one bear.
The Dijmphna Sound between Holm’s Land and Hovgaard Island must
118 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
be shallow all the way across, as the whole sound was filled with small pieces
of grounded ice. We were surprised at this, as we had expected to find
deep water off the steep Mallemukfjæld, but we could reach the bottom
with a pole of 2% metres’ length almost 2 miles off land. The bottom
when seen through the numerous cracks was full of small starfishes and
some shells. It was quite smooth and sandy.
When we left Holm’s Land, on July 8th, the sea-ice was separated
from land by a stretch of landwater 5 a 10 metres broad, and it was
difficult to pass Mallemukfjældet with a sledge on account of open water,
but once at sea we found good sledging conditions. The snow, where
it was not accumulated by pressure-ridges, was all melted off the ice
from last fall, and ponds a couple of hundred metres in extent and knee-
deep were all over its surface. The dogs had sometimes to swim
over the deeper places in the ponds, and the load on the sledge was
stowed on the top of empty tins to keep it clear of the water.
Broad lanes delayed us considerably, and when we found them too
broad to cross, we had to get hold of a small piece of ice, which could
be used as a sort of raft.
Similar conditions prevailed all across the Dijmphna Sound, and the
progress we made was consequently so small that we did not reach
Саре H.N. Andersen until July 11th 4 a.m.
On July 12th we had the misfortune to loose some of our outfit,
as a small flow which we used as a raft, broke underneath the sledge.
The sledge fell into the water, and we dared not cut our lashings for
fear of loosing our entire outfit, but eventually we had to run the risk
and do it, as it was impossible for us to get our sledge out of the water
in any other way. We lost our theodolite, our spade and a few other
minor articles as well as the botanical and geological specimens collected
in Fyen’s Lake, Danmark’s Fjord and at Mallemukfjældet. The camera and
some rolls of exposed films got also spoiled by water. Our greatest loss,
however, was some of our scanty food, while what we saved had been
soaked for an hour and a half in salt water and was almost spoiled.
Foggy weather delayed us a good deal on this journey, as we dared
not sledge between this maze of lanes when prevented from picking
out the best road, and so we camped, whenever the fog became too
dense. We were not in any particular hurry, being as well-off out at
sea as on land, and on the sea-ice we could furthermore expect at any
time to get a seal or bear.
On July 13th we camped on a small rock about half way down
the coast of Hovgaard Island, close to the glacier, but surrounded by
water. We saw some eiderducks in the water and shot one, but we
lost it again, as the bird drifted away from us.
On July 14th we made comparatively good progress over ice, which
was level, bare of snow and free from frozen-up old floes, but our pro-
gress was as usual delayed by the lanes, which apparently became broader
Report on the expedition. 119
the further south we got. Saw Lambert’s Land just before we camped
at 4.30 a.m.
The greater part of the ice which we passed during the night of
July 15th was, though last-year ice, covered with a rather deep layer of
snow. We passed two very broad lanes, over which we had to raft the
sledge on a piece of ice.
Bagatellerne was reached on July 16th at 6 a.m. but without the
sledge, which got stuck in the deep snow on the floating Inlandice
between them and Cape Anna Bistrup.
We had been 8 days on our way from Holm’s Land to Bagatellerne,
a distance of only 35 miles, with 46 actual sledging hours. This gives
an hourly average of 0,76 miles, but it must be borne in mind that I
was not entirely cured of my illness, and that one of our three dogs
was of no use at all. Further that the trail had been over an area, more
than half of which was covered by water, which had to be sounded all
the way across, before we dared to take our sledge out. And last not
least, the fog forced us to make many unnecessary detours.
The depot on Bagatellerne consisted of a whole provision-box and
10 litres of kerosene. The provisions had been dragged away from
their original-place, and then were left so near the beach that as soon
as the ice had melted away, any little wave would be able to reach them,
and furthermore they were lying in a small rivulet. Water had con-
sequently got into the box through some rather large holes, and all
that could be mouldy viz: bread etc. was nearly spoiled. The provision-
tins inside the large box were also rusty, so much that holes were
found in the tins, and some of the food was consequently spoiled. In
spite of this damage we found, however, food enough to last us for some
time with strict economy; we had no bread, butter, sugar or tea, when
we reached the depot, and only 4kg pemmican besides the dog-feed
— which by the way the dogs were now sufficiently hungry to eat. With
the provisions found here and a ration of 34 lbs a day we expected
to have food enough to last us almost one month, and it seemed incre-
dible that we should not get game within this period.
On July 17th we walked southward out over the ice and came to
the conclusion that we had better stop and try to get some game on
Hovgaard Island, which was quite near, all the more so as the ice to
the south of the skerries was very old, hummocky and covered with
such soft snow that we could not think of taking the sledge across,
before it had melted away entirely.
On July 18th at 2 a.m. we erected our tent on the low foreland
just north of Cape Anna Bistrup.
It was on a flat stretch of land — 1% mile in breadth and about
2 miles in length, almost separated from the main land by bights cut-
ting into it from the north and south, nearly joining each other. This
foreland was quite clayey save in its southern point, which consisted of a
120 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
steep basalt cliff. A very good and rather large harbour is found between
this basalt cliff and the main land, and a large river coming from the
top of Hovgaard Island had its outlet in this harbour, where the ice
had already melted away.
The land seemed splendid and was covered with a rich vegetation
consisting of heather, willows in bud, several kinds of flowers as well
as a great amount of grass. The vegetation became more luxuriant
further away from the coast, and the mountain-slopes were covered
with grass and heather.
We saw many traces of animal life, but mostly old. The excrements
of hares were so plentiful on the mountain-side that we had not formerly
seen anything like it, and on the flat land we saw many traces of musk-
ox and bears. Of birds we saw snow-buntings and a small wader, some
sea-gulls and eiderducks in the open bay to the south. A few seals were
seen in the broad tidal crack, and we felt quite certain that we would
soon get game.
But we got nothing on July 19th, and on July 20th we sledged
round to the southern side of the Island, where we had seen a large
valley, which seemed splendid for hunting purposes. It was a difficult
trip, as the ice close under land was full of large and deep melting holes,
and one of our three dogs succumbed to the permanent wetting. We
reached the valley after 9 hours’ hard work and camped in the low and
wet river-delta, as we had not strength enough to keep on, after we
had once reached land. The temperature was very high + 5° С.
It was still warmer on July 21st, when we had a temperature of
+ 7°5, and the rivers which enclosed the tent swelled to such an extent
that the water almost reached us, although we had camped on the highest
spot. To go hunting was out of the question, as we could not ford the
rivers, before the supply of water became less plentiful. It began to
rain at 2,30p.m., a perfect downpour, and it was not till July 22nd
that the water of the rivers had fallen so much that we could ford them.
We went out in two different directions to cover as much land as pos-
sible, but it soon became evident that we could not expect large results
of the day’s hunting, as the country was barren. We saw one snow-owl,
some lemmings and two ptarmigans, which ТУЕВЗЕМ shot.
We returned to our permanent camp on July 23rd, and a bear
came to our tent during the night, when we were asleep. We fired a
shot at a long distance and wounded the animal, but it swam over the
broad tidal crack and disappeared in the fog.
For two days we searched the land and the mountain-slopes for
game, without any results at all, and then we determined to concen-
trate all our energies on getting seals, which we occasionally saw in the
tidal crack along the coast, and we watched by turns so that nothing
should escape us.
The weather was raw, windy and cold, and no seals crawled out
Report ‘on the expedition. 121
on the ice, so that our only chance was to get one in the water. On
July 26th we saw one seal, on July 27th three and on July 28th none
at all. We ate our last bread and had now nothing left except pem-
mican and tea.
I went out on the ice on July 29th and shot a seal in the water,
but it sank, before I could get hold of it.
We saw one seal on July 30th, but it escaped easily, as we had
no means of following it into the water. New ice formed for the first
time on the tidal crack, and the temperature had been as low as
— 3°5 during the night.
We saw no seals on July 3156 and August Ist, but we saw three
on August 2nd, and four on August 5rd. The seals were however very
wary and kept so far away that we could not reach them with our guns.
We had realized long ago that we could not expect to get any game
here, except by the merest chance, and we had decided to leave Hov-
gaard Island and try to reach Schnauder Island, while we still had
some provisions left, but foggy weather delayed our departure.
On August 4th we shot one seal in the tidal crack, and although
it sank at once, we hoped to be able to get it, as we had good marks
on the place where it disappeared, and the depth of the water did not
exceed 3 metres.
The whole of August 5th we spent in dragging for the seal with a
rather good drag manufactured out of the handles of the kerosene-
tanks. We used a small piece of ice as a raft, but after having worked
in vain for seventeen hours we gave up the attempt. The seal must
have been carried away by the current, which runs along the coast with
great speed — northward with the flood, southward with the ebb.
At last we left Hovgaard Island on August 6th after a stay of nineteen
days, during which period we had done all that we possibly could do to secure
game. We had tracked the land carefully and only got two ptarmigans,
and we had been at the tidal cracks night and day, with the result that
the seals we shot sank at once and drifted beyond our reach. We had
lost one dog and eaten such a large amount of our provisions that we
had now only 4 kg pemmican left — nothing else, save food for our
2 dogs in 8 days.
The cold weather, which we had had while on Hovgaard Island un-
fortunately changed to warm weather on the very day, when our sledging
was resumed. This melted the ice, which had frozen so thick during
the cold weather that it could carry a man, and our sledging south-
ward was consequently very much delayed.
We did not break camp on August 7th, as I had sprained my right
foot on August 5th while looking for the seal, and it was now so swollen
that I could not get on my kamicks. During the day my foot became
much better, so we started during the first hour of August 8th and
made splendid progress over old ice, bare of snow and quite smooth,
122 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
though filled with a very large number of melting holes, lying close side
by side.
We met our first river-courses 3 miles south of Bagatellerne, and
they caused us some trouble and delay, as we had to ford the rivers,
which were often quite deep. The surface of the ice was very sharp,
and holes were worn in one pair of new kamicks during the night’s
work.
We had also a great number of river-courses to cross on August 9th,
and we had to be very careful not to be overthrown by the rushing
water. Besides these river-courses we had so many large melting holes
to pass, that we could do nothing but keep right on and cross them
with our sledge, ifwe wanted to make any progress at all.
This was however rather easily proformed, as we had brought a tar-
paulin, by means of which we could alter the sledge into a raft. We
nad been experimenting with this, and had by now succeeded in making
a float, which satisfied us entirely and made it possible for us to sledge.
When we broke camp, we bundled all our outfit into the tarpaulin,
making a long, flat and very bulky bundle, which was lashed on to the
sledge. Two skies were lashed underneath the bottom-boards of the
sledge, and projected 1 meter behind the handlebars.
When the sledge, fixed up like this, came to a pond or a river which
we had to cross, we unharnessed the two dogs and tied them on top
of the load. One man went over the pond with a line made fast to the
sledge, and everything thus being ready the sledge was pushed into the
water. The two skies, which stuck out astern, prevented the sledge
from capsizing, as one runner would get clear of the sharp edge of the
pond before the other, and thus they made the fall into the water
much more gentle. When the sledge was in the water, we hauled it
over with the line. If the pond was so broad that we could not reach
the other side with our lines, we both stood on the sledge and pushed
it along with a couple of poles. In this manner we could cross water
with a depth of 60 à 70cm without getting particularly wet. It was,
however, rather dangerous, И the water was deeper than this, as the
bundle then would be so buoyant that the sledge would float. This
it could do, but not very well when loaded with more than our two
dogs and one man. On rare occasions we both ventured to mount the
sledge, but it lacked buoyancy and stability, and it was thus rather
dangerous.
3 miles to the north of the small rocks on 79°22’ N. Lat. we came
to the end of the floating Inlandice, and the sledging conditions at once
became worse owing to the lack of decline in the ice, by which the water
was drained off from the Inlandice. On the sea-ice we had to pass a
very large number of broad and deep melting holes, which occupied
more than half of the area traversed, and we did not reach the skerries
till August 10th.
Report on the expedition. 123
Our dogs had suffered much by being exposed to the water, and one
of them could not walk any longer. IVERSEN too was ill, suffering from
symptoms resembling scurvy, and we were compelled to camp on land
to get some rest and to dry our soaked travelling-gear.
The ice between Lambert’s Land and the skerries was not older
than from last autumn, and the water was already drained off it through
melting holes, so our progress was rather good, only retarded by some
open lanes of water. On August 13th we reached the open landwater,
which was at least 30 metres broad, but we rafted our outfit across
on small pieces of ice without any accident.
We camped on land at 3,30 a.m., and after a few hours’ sleep we
went out hunting, as we had only 0,5 kg pemmican left.
The northern end of the peninsula, on which we had camped, was
a low, marshy plain, covered with long and fresh-looking grass, and we
saw very numerous traces of musk-ox, some of them apparently quite
recent. Fair-looking as the country had been on the plain, it became
still better between the sheltering mountains on the lower half of
the peninsula, where we found grass, heather and willows. We did not
see any big game, but IVERSEN succeeded in shooting twelve ptarmigans
with our only shotgun.
We proceeded on our journey on August 14th, but we did not make
good progress, as we had more water-ponds to cross, than we had ever
had before, and it was not till we came very near to Bronlunds Grave,
following the land-water, that the water-ponds began to disappear.
Brenlunds Grave was reached on August 15th, and we went out
hunting at once, but without any results, which was all the more sur-
prising as the country was covered with vegetation in all sheltered spots.
We saw many new traces of musk-ox.
We were hunting all of August 16th and only got one small hare
weighing about 2 kilo. The high temperature surprised us, and we had
+ 178 at midnight.
We had intended to start for Schnauder Island on August 17th,
but after having eaten the liver of one of our dogs, which we had been
obliged to kill for food, we fell asleep and slept so long that we did not
begin to work again till August 18th 5 a.m.
We examined Bronlunds Grave carefully and had a good oppor-
tunity of doing it thouroughly, as all the snow was now melted off the
ground. We found a compass, formerly belonging to the theodolite, but
nothing whatever of any importance. | |
We left Lambert’s Land at noon (August 18th) in order to pass
the tidal crack with low water, which facilitates the work, but then we
camped on the other side of it to await the lowest night-temperature.
The sledge-journey was begun in earnest at 1,30a.m. August 19th,
and in the course of an hour we reached the floating Inlandice. Here
the going became quite good, and the rivers were rather easy to cross,
124 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
as the comparatively cold weather prevented the large flow of water,
which we had to the south of Hovgaard Island. Passed a couple of
open water-lanes — one of them almost 100 metres broad — using as
usual a piece of ice as a raft.
Killed our last dog and could not resist the temptation to eat
the liver, with the result that we became more than usually tired and
could not muster sufficient energy to continue sledging till 6,30 a. m.
on August 21st. We were sledging over the floating Inlandice without
any difficulty at all, until we came to a very broad crack with open water
at the bottom of it. The sides of the crack were vertical and about
10 metres high, and it was at least 50 metres broad. A current was
setting outward through it, and it was so strong that it foamed along
the edges, having at least a velocity of 3—4 miles an hour. Saw a large
seal or walrus, which was barely able to stem the current. Sledging
outward along the crack we came to a place where some ice-floes had
jammed, and we succeeded in passing this bridge.
We had splendid going to the south of the crack and reached Cape
Drygalsky at 3 a.m. on August 21st. We followed the coast sledging
on the ice-foot, until the coming flood forced us to camp on land. We
were so tired that we could not go out hunting, in spite of the tact that
we saw quite fresh traces of musk-ox.
Continued sledging at За. т. on August 22nd, when the water
had fallen so much that the ice-foot was nearly dry. We once more
met the Inlandice between the two islands and camped off the north
point of Schnauder Island. We had just passed a large valley, the bottom
of which was strewn with iceblocks about 1 meter thick. These blocks
were fragments of a continuous ice-sheet, which had covered the valley
about two metres above its: bottom, where large pieces still clung to
the sides. The bursting must have been very violent, as blocks were
found a couple of metres above the ice-sheet and 20 a 30 metres from
their original position. The bursting seems to have happened in conse-
quence of a large floe of Inlandice having broken off from the main
glacier and settled deeper in the water, whereby the pressure on the
under side of the ice-sheet covering the water in the valley must have
become so great that it was rent into small pieces. It must have hap-
pened in the autumn, or the ice would have been much thicker.
We reached the NW point of Schnauder Island on August 23th after
a difficult night’s work, as three deep valleys in the Inlandice and parallel
to land had to be passed, before we came to a place where the Inlandice
touched a small point. The grade from the Inlandice towards land was
very steep. |
When we had eaten our last piece of dog-meat and taken a short
rest, we proceeded along the coast, looking for the depot. It was a
difficult walk, as we often had to cross a marshy foreland, in which
we got stuck, or broad rivers or very steep points where we had to
Report on the expedition. 125
crawl along on the downfallen debris. Where it was flat the coast seemed
covered with vegetation, and we saw many traces of musk-ox, hare and
ptarmigan. We followed a quite fresh track of one musk-ox along the
coast, where the going as a rule was rather good, a large moraine
running almost all along the western coast of Schnauder Island,
separated from the land by a narrow stretch of water, in which the tide
rises or falls.
The depot was found on August 23rd at 9 р. т., and the box was
lying on the top of a small mound, where no water could get into it.
The contents were well preserved, and we had now food to last us about
a fortnight, and so we could afford to take the much needed rest of a
few days. For the matter of that it was also absolutely necessary to
remain in camp for some days, as we had been poisoned by the dogliver,
and our skin peeled off in large flakes, whereby we got open sores in all
places where the underclothing rubbed against the body.
Rested the whole of August 24th and 25th. I went out hunting
on August 26th and crossed Schnauder Island. The west coast was high
and rather steep, but the country sloped gradually towards the east.
The interior of the island was covered with vegetation, and there was a
very large number of musk-ox traces. The animals were on the
island, as I found warm excrements, but it was impossible to follow
one trace, аз so many animals had been walking backwards and for-
wards over the island. Saw some rather large lakes near the east coast
with footprints of geese on the marshy beaches, but I did not see any-
thing to shoot. IVERSEN went out on August 27th, but he did not get
anything, although he saw a hare. We had hoped to be able to do
some hunting, but we were compelled to give it up after these two
attempts, as our skin peeled off to such a degree that it became dangerous
and threatened to lay us up for a considerable period.
August 28th and 29th we spent in camp.
Began sledging southward along the west coast of Schnauder Island
on August 30th, after having been lucky enough to shoot five ptarmigans.
The ice on the fresh water-ponds was now frozen so solid that we could
walk on it, and this was of course a very great help to us, as we were
not compelled to make more detours, and could use the river-courses as
a highway.
Camped at the depot on Schnauder Island, which we left again on August
31st at 2 а. т. We made good progress in spite of the very much pressed-
up Inlandice, which we passed off the SW point of Schnauder Island. The
ice became quite good, when we got clear of the island, and remained
good all of September Ist, when we had neither crevasses nor river-
courses to cross. On our route we passed two places, where the members
of the Danmark-Expedition must have rested temporarily, as boxes and
opened tins were lying about on the ice. Made about 7 miles.
The conditions were the same on Sept. 2nd, and we made rather
AN >
CV im ‚AI
IS; ms и
126 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
good progress over the undulating, snow-bare surface on the Inlandice.
We felt however more weak and tired than on the preceding days,
and the effects of the rest and feeding seemed unfortunately to dis-
appear very fast.
The ice was bad on Sept. 3rd, and we had to cross one river-course
after the other. These were not particularly deep, but hauling the sledge
up even from a small grade almost proved too much for our strength,
and we were soon so tired that we had to stop after only four hours’
sledging.
The ice became worse, the nearer we got to Nordre Depot, and on
Sept. 4th at 11 a.m. we had to give up hauling the sledge any further
towards the island, and left it and the tent on the ice, while we walked
unhampered towards the depot. We passed a lake, covered with new
ice and surrounded by Inlandice, lying a couple of miles to the north
of the islands. We landed on the northernmost island, as we did not
know where the depot was to be found, and saw a large flock of
ptarmigans sitting on the stones. We had left our gun behind, as it
was too heavy to carry together with the provisions, which we hoped to
find, and thus we lost this chance of securing game.
The depot was found at last after nine hours’ search, and was in
rather good condition. We found more food than we had expected to
find after Tuostrup’s message at Mallemukfjeldet.
Owing to various circumstances we had not got a list of the depots
and their contents before leaving home, and we thought of course that
the depots would be intact, as they were marked off on the chart, and
that they would contain nearly what was stated by Тнозтвор, all the
more as we understood that Косн had a hundred days’ provisions with
him, when he went north searching for My ius-ERIcHSEN, and that he
would thus have no reason to touch the food already deposited. И
the depots were intact, as we believed them to be, we would have ample
food for the remainder of the journey, and we consequently increased
our ration to 34 kilo a day, after we had found the food at Nordre Depot.
Passed Nordre Depot with our sledge on Sept. Эй, keeping as far
away from the coast as possible, but never the less we got very hilly
ice, over which we made but poor progress. The ice became very much
better on Sept. 6th, and on Sept. 7th we came down from the floating
Inlandice and found splendid going on the old floes and the melting
ponds on its surface.
We reached the depots on Hagen Island on Sept. 8th at 11,30, and
finding it empty we decided to push on and try to reach the depot on
Bjorneskerene. We came out on newly formed ice just south of Hagen
Island and made very good progress over it. The ice, however, became
very thin, when we arrived in the neighbourhood of Bjorneskærene,
and we were compelled to camp on the ice, only half a mile from open
water.
Report on the expedition. 127
Leaving our outfit behind we went on to the land on Sept. 9th in order
to get a good view of the conditions of the ice and to look for the depot.
We found it, but it was empty. From a steep hill near the depot we
had an extensive view of the coast in a southern direction, and we saw
that we had gone as far with the sledge, as we possibly could, as no
ice, new or old, was in sight south of our camping site. We could do
nothing but leave our sledge and outfit on the coast near the depot
and walk overland to Danmark’s Havn.
All of Sept. 10th was spent in getting our outfit on to the shore
and in making the necessary arrangements for carrying the load which
we must take with us — our journals, films, guns, ammunition, food
(11, kg of pemmican) and primus with kerosene for three cookings,
a little spare clothing etc. things which we thought absolutely indis-
pensable. This we divided into two bundles, which we strapped on our
backs, and everything being ready we started on the last part of the
journey. а
In order to get inside the open water, which we had seen at the
mouth of Orleans Sound, we had to cross Orleans Island on a WSW course.
Our progress was rendered very difficult, as the coast was extremely
hilly, and we had to make two long detours, in both cases caused by
lakes, which to our surprise were quite open. We had no thermometer
left and could not measure the temperature of the water, but it felt
quite warm against our hands and had a very bitter taste.
Being unused to carry the heavy burdens we were compelled to
stop-for the night, immediately after we had crossed Orleans Sound. We
had no sleeping-bags and only a little piece of tent-cloth, which we hung
up on the three sticks to break the wind.
On Sept. 11th we walked along, following the coast past Cape Louise
and a little beyond the depot of the Danmark-Expedition. Shot a bear,
which unfortunately took to the water and died a short distance off shore.
Cape Amélie was passed on Sept. 12th. It was very difficult and
dangerous, as we had to crawl along on the down-fallen debris which
rocked and rolled under our feet. Saw five fox-traps on the south side
of Cape Amélie. They were very well preserved, and stood quite close
together on a small flat plain surrounded by rocks.
There was quite open water in Skærfjorden, and we were forced
to go towards the NW in Penthievre Fjord in order to reach the ice,
which we had seen from Cape Amélie. A gale sprang up and broke the
ice, before we reached it, and we had to remain where we were. We
had shot four ptarmigans during the day’s march and had seen one hare.
Sept. 13th the wind was too strong for us to proceed or to allow
the ice to become thick, and it was not till Sept. 14th that we were able to
continue. We crossed over to Joinville Island and followed its coast to
the south, until an on-coming gale broke up the ice and compelled us
to stop on a small rock, just close to the open water.
128 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
Here we remained all of Sept. 15th, as we had been surrounded by
open water, while the ice was not solid enough to walk on till Sept.
16th. We were now so weakened from the permanent exposure and
lack of food and even water that we could not carry anything besides
our gun and glasses, and so everything else was left in a depot on the rock.
We started at ба. m., and it took us seven hours to walk over the
thin and unsafe ice to Rekvedoen, where we ate our last few grams
of pemmican. The ice along the coast from there and to Cape Marie
Valdemar was safe, and we reached the site of the depot at 9 р. m. but
found no food. Rested until it became light enough to walk (Sept.
17th). We had to walk along the beach from here to Danmark’s Havn,
as there was no ice at all along the coast save in the most sheltered bights.
We reached Syttenkilometernesset on Sept. 17th, and we luckily found
two small tins of provisions left by the Danmark-Expedition. This
small amount of food helped us a great deal, and we arrived at the house
in Danmark’s Havn on Sept. 18th at 11 a.m.
At first we were too exhausted to do any hunting, and we also lacked
energy to undertake even the slightest amount of work. We had, how-
ever, to make a new camping outfit, sledge etc. of materials which we
found in the house, and we were not ready to go north to fetch our journals
till Oct. 2nd, after which period stormy weather, which continually broke
the ice, kept us in the house until Oct. 15th. Being as yet rather weak
we could not make any progress over the salty ice, which was covered
with snow, and after seven days’ travelling we had not even reached
Fyrretyvekilometernesset.
We realized that it would be impossible to reach our depot in this
way, and as we had no prospect at all of better conditions, we gave
up the attempt and reached Danmark’s Havn on Oct. 23rd.
It was not till Nov. 5th that we were again able to continue our
sledging, now laying our course to Shannon Island. Stormy weather,
darkness and a surprisingly wet surface delayed us so much that we
did not reach our depot on Cape Peschel till Nov. 10th. We found the
food in good shape, but the clothing-bag was torn to pieces, and
only small rags of the contents were found.
The same salty surface which we encountered across Dove Bay was
also found along the coast of the main land, and in some places we found
more than 1 cm salt and snow mixed together. This surprised us, as
the ice must have been so thick at this time of the year that no salty
moisture could remain on the surface, but we were still more surprised
to notice that the snow-layer seemed to have been drenched by salt
water. This could only have happened in one way, i. e. the ice having
broken under the strain of a violent storm on Oct. 31st and Nov. Ist,
after which it became possible for the waves or spray to drench the
snow. This assumption was strengthened by the fact that we found
many places along the coast, where the ice was quite thin.
Report on the expedition. 129
We reached the depot on Haystack Nov. 15th and headed over the
packice for Shannon Island. The ice was very bad, rough and hilly
and covered with deep snow, and our progress was consequently so poor
that on Nov. 18th, after three days’ sledging, we had only advanced
about 15 miles from Haystack. А succession of gales and cloudy, dark
weather with a heavy snow-fall compelled us to remain in our tent from
Nov. 19th to 23rd. We had eaten all our food on Nov. 23rd, when we
were compelled to leave the tent and our outfit for the second time,
but the weather fortunately became calmer so as to enable us to walk
to Shannon Island. The night between Nov. 23rd and Nov. 24th we
spent in a hole dug out in the snow, as it was too dark to walk, because
the moon had hidden behind some heavy clouds. At midnight the
weather cleared, and we continued our walk without any more
stoppages, until on Nov. 25th at 5 a.m., 43 hours after we had left
our tent on the ice, we reached the house built by our comrades in
our old winter-harbour. The ship had sunk during our absence.
On Shannon Island and Bass Rock
from November 25th 1910—July 19th 1912.
We remained in our winter-quarter on the north-eastern point of
Shannon Island from the date of our arrival (Nov. 25th 1910) to
March 17th 1911, in all a hundred and twelve days.
Generally speaking the weather was very stormy during the 112 days.
The wind was almost continually blowing from the north and as a
rule with a great velocity, which, however, might be due to the exposed
situation of our winter-quarter.
The cold was not particularly severe, as the temperature did not
fall below — 38° C, and in one case, on January 2nd, it rose to — 695.
The wind was slight and blowing from the south, where there must
have been a large area of open water in order to influence the tempera-
ture to such a degree. The temperature fell from — 8°2 to — 18°5C.
between 7 p.m. and 8 p. m., when the wind changed to the north after
a short lull.
It was remarkable to see the effect of the large rise of temperature
on the rocks in our vicinity, which became glazed by a whitish ice, so
that the whole rocky promontory, when seen at a short distance, seemed
covered with a fine, powdery snow. Towards evening the glaze on the
rocks had a thickness of 1№—2 mm, and traces of it were still to be
found about a week later.
Save for the foxes, of which we had about twenty during the winter,
the animal life was remarkably poor. A wolf was seen and chased,
but it escaped, and of bears we saw only one trace in the vicinity of
our house. No traces were seen neither of hares nor ptarmigans on the
LIT. 9
130 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
ice surrounding the land, and the only bird seen during this period was
a raven, which we saw on March 16th.
On March 17th we began a short sledge-trip (hand-sledge) down to
the American depot on Cape Philip Broke. We arrived at the depot
at noon (March 19th), having only used 15 sledging-hours to cover the
distance of 23 miles. The depot-house was filled with snow, as a window-
pane had become broken, and foxes had lived in the house during the
winter.
We had expected to see open water to the south of Shannon Island,
as the temperature rose whenever the wind was southerly, but we were
not prepared to see the practically open ocean, which came within 11%
mile off Cape Philip Broke and extended so far to the south and ESE,
as could be seen from an elevation of 100 metres. Only to the east
the packice was seen and there rather close inland.
We remained at Cape Philip Broke for several days, as we hoped
to get such good weather that the ice between this cape and Bass Rock
might freeze solid. But continual gales broke up the new ice, which
drifted away out to sea, and it was evident that if we were particularly
desirous to reach Bass Rock, we would have to make a large detour
inside the open water and to walk over the old ice, which was covered
with knee-deep snow. We had neither snow-shoes nor skies with us, so
it would have been a hard task to drag the sledge through the soft snow,
and as we were not particularly anxious to reach Bass Rock and did
not want to waste our strength, having the large trip to Skærfjorden
in view, we gave up the attempt until after our return from the north.
On March 25th we had a temperature of — 2° C with a rather fresh
SE wind, which later on changed to south and SSW without a fall of
temperature. The temperature did not fall, till the wind came from the
north, when it went down to — 26° C, but it rose again with a change
of wind, and on April 5th it reached + 4° С, also with а SEwind. These
large deviations of temperature must indicate that the open water ex-
tends far to the SE and S.
Our first game in 1911 was bagged on March 28th, when we shot
three ptarmigans and one bear. We saw several hares, but they were
very shy.
We left Cape Philip Broke on April 7th and went back to our winter-
house, where we arrived on April 9th. We began at once to make prepara-
tions for our journey to Skerfjorden, and on April 13th everything was
ready for departure, but storms and bad weather delayed our going
until April 23rd.
The pack-ice had broken away from the shore-ice during a violent
gale (April 18th), and we passed large lanes, covered with quite thin
ice just north of Shannon Island. The ice between this island and Kol-
dewey Island had all been broken up within the last week, and the lanes
and ponds became broader and larger, the nearer we got to Koldewey
Report on the expedition. 191
Island, which we had great difficulty in reaching, as open water came
within 50 metres off the coast.
We reached Koldewey Island at last on April 28th and intended to
follow the east coast, where we would be certain to find ice bare of snow,
but open water close in land at Cape Arendts forced us to cross the is-
land and follow its west coast. The snow was very soft and deep all
along the coast, and progress would have been very slow but for a regular
path close inland, formed by a very great number of bears, which had
kept on walking along the broken trail. We saw several bears and shot one.
We went into Bergs Fjord and over the low land to the east coast
on May 3rd and reached Danmark’s Havn on May 5.
On May 9th the journey was resumed along the outer coast of Ger-
mania Land. We passed a large opening in the packice 1 mile broad and
3 miles long and lying close inland just north of Syttenkilometernesset,
but no other open water was seen along the coast, not even from the
rather high land just behind Cape Marie Valdemar.
The snow was very deep and soft in Skerfjorden, and we did not
reach the skerry, on which we had left our depot, till May 15.
A bear had found our depot and broken into it, scattering every-
thing all over the ground. It was now covered by a deep layer of snow,
but some few fragments were found on top of the snow, and a small
stick belonging to our knapsack projected through it. The snow was
dug away round it, and we found our diaries, journals and barometer.
Only one of my journals was lost, and though the bear had apparently
tried to chew everything, the actual damage was not great.
The return-journey began on May 17th, and having our old trail
to follow we made very much better progress than when going north.
Cape Marie Valdemar was passed on May 18th, and to our surprise we
saw a very broad lane extending along the coast from the south, close
to the cape and as far as we could see all the way to Ile de France, where
it broadened so much that it lost the appearance of a lane and rather
looked like open sea.
The water followed the coast and came within 100 metres of Sytten-
kilometernæsset, where it had a breadth of at least 2 miles. The weather
was cloudy, when we passed the cape, and the sky was in the best con-
dition for showing open water and presented the same appearance as
when seen over scattered pack-ice in summertime.
Danmark’s Havn was reached on May 20th, and there we were de-
tained by warm weather, fog and snow until May 29th, when we conti-
nued our return-journey, now following the east coast of Koldewey Is-
land, where the ice was very good.
On May 31st we passed the cairn erected by the Danmark-Expe-
dition, when it landed there in the summer of 1906, and we took out
the record, which had been left in it. We rebuilt the cairn and left a
message from ourselves.
9*
132 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
It was possible to follow the east coast of Koldewey Island until a
little north of Cape Arendts, where open water close inland forced us
once more to ascend the island and sledge on it to the south point,
which we reached on June Эта.
The ice between Koldewey and Shannon Island was still more
broken than when we went north, and we came within a few miles of
the Haystack in our endeavours to get inside the unsafe ice.
On June 6th we reached our winter-house on Shannon Island, and
we remained there until June 15th, when we went down to the depot
on Cape Philip Broke to await the arrival of a vessel.
The snow on land had almost entirely disappeared, and large water-
ponds were scattered all over the low marshy plain of the southern end
of the island. We reached the depot on June 16th, and we intended
to go over to Bass Rock at once. But the snow on the ice was too soft
to make it possible, and we decided to wait, until it was warm enough
to cross the open water between Shannon Island and Bass Rock in a
kajak found in the house.
Our kaiak was repaired and tried in the water on July 5th towards
evening, and we intended to cross over to the rock the following day,
but a fresh wind sprang up during the night and broke the coast-ice
close to the south point of Cape Philip Broke, and so our kaiak, which
was left on the ice, drifted away with it. We were now compelled to
remain on Shannon Island, until we got another boat.
The ocean, as seen on the day of our arrival from the highest point
in the vicinity of Cape Philip Broke, seemed very open. From this
height (120 metres) there was no packice in sight except in SE and off
Cape Pansch.
But a remarkable change took place in the packice during the
first two weeks of July. Until then there had been very much open
water to the south of Cape Philip Broke, which stretch of water increased
in size with an easterly and southerly wind, but decreased with a nor-
therly wind.
But this was entirely changed, when a NE gale on July 14th had
set the ice on land and filled the open water to the south with a compact
mass of packice, which remained nearly stationary, whatever the
directions of the wind. Its only motion was that which was caused by
the shifting tides, and no change of any extent happened before the
latter part of August.
No “open-water sky” was seen anywhere over the packice.
The shore-ice in Freeden Bay broke up and began to drift out on
August 9th, but it could not float away owing to the large amount of
packice which hemmed it in. It broke up in several small pieces, and
the pressure on the coast was great.
The packice began to open up on August 20th, and on August
22nd it was so open that we felt confident that a sailing-vessel might
Report on the expedition. 133
easily manoeuvre between the floes. The ice opened more and more,
and from then onwards there would have been no hindrance for navi-
gation.
While living at Cape Philip Broke our time was divided between
hunting and digging out some Eskimo remains. The result of this latter
work was very meagre, as we only found one winter-house. Tent-rings,
however, and particularly shooting-shelters and meat-cäches we found
in large numbers. The only thing of interest which we found in the
house, was the hollow part of the bottom of a bottle, carefully chipped
so as to make a small vessel, and it was buried under the caved-in roof
and about one foot of turf. In one of the meat-cäches behind Cape
Philip Broke we found another bit of glass, apparently belonging to
the same bottle, which we had found in the house, as the broken-off
pieces fitted together. No European who in our knowledge had visited
the east coast of Greenland could have left this bottle, as the thick turf
must have been very long in forming. The bottle must then either have
been brought to the coast by a whaling-vessel or have come down with
the polar current. This latter seems unlikely, as a bottle could hardly
drift across the Polar Ocean without breaking, either by being hammered
against a piece of ice or by being burst by the frost, and the most likely
theory seems to be the one that the bottle must have been brought
there by a whaling vessel.
The finding of these pieces of glass and the assumption that the
original bottle must have been brought by a whaling vessel may give a
vague explanation of the total disappearance of the Eskimos from this
part of the coast, as diseases may then have been introduced amongst
these people by stray whaling vessels, which have reached Greenland
and got into connection with the Eskimo, though news of it never
seem to have penetrated to the outer world. Any disease will spread with
a surprising rapidity and will almost certainly be fatal to these small
communities, as shown with painful plainness for instance in Alasca.
A few utensils belonging to former inhabitants were found amongst
the rocks on the point, and a whole whale-bone was discovered in a
cache far inland.
The hunting gave rather good results as regards bears, musk-oxen and
sea-gulls. The bears were numerous, until the Freeden Bay broke up,
and it was probably due to the fact that a very great amount of seals
were basking on the ice. We did not get near enough to see what kind
of seals they were, but we shot a few in the water, and found them to
be the common ringed seal. A couple of walrusses were also seen.
The stomachs of all the seals we shot were full of shrimps.
On land we saw and shot musk-oxen on August 8th and August 14th,
in both cases bulls — four in all. Further we saw hares, of which there
was a very large amount near Cape Philip Broke, and in one day we
shot seven. This was on June 20th, and their kittens were probably
134 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
only a couple of days old. Two of the kittens, which we caught, were
kept alive during the whole of the summer. Lemmings there were also
in plenty, and a very large number of their winter-nests were scattered
over the plain. These small animals are eaten by foxes, which were
likewise rather numerous. A couple of wolves came to our vicinity
during the early part of September.
Of land-birds we saw several kinds of waders, ptarmigans and geese,
which preferably had their nests on small islets in the middle of the
large, temporary melting water-ponds on land. We saw many snow-
buntings during the whole of the summer, but it was not till the migra-
tion began during the latter part of August that we realised, how ex-
tremely numerous these birds were. They seemed to gather on the low
plains north of Cape Philip Broke, and from there they flew in flocks,
larger than any I had ever seen before. It is difficult to estimate the
number of such a large flock of small birds, but there must have been
thousands, and flock after flock passed over our house. We noticed
the first flock on August 27th and the last on August 31st, but occasional
stagglers were seen much later.
Ravens we saw during the whole of the summer, and seven falcons
came to our house on Sept. 11th and remained there until we left.
Of seabirds we saw eiderducks, looms, glaukous, arctic skuas, fulmars
and terns. Eiderducks were — as far as we could make out — the
last migratory birds to leave the country, and as late as on Sept. 8th
we shot a young bird, which was not more than half-grown, and the body
of which was covered with down, through which only a few feathers
projected. The parent birds were however not to be seen and may
have left the country and the young bird, which for some reason or
other was late in developing.
The vegetation on the land surrounding Cape Philip Broke was
rather luxuriant, but only consisted of very few species. There were
several kinds of grasses, willows and mosses. Of flowers there were only
the yellow poppies, which all began to bloom almost at the same time
during the few hours between bedtime on June 26th and the morning
of June 27th, presumably as a consequence of a sunny day.
The summer of 1911 must have been more warm than the summer
of 1909.
In 1909 when on August 25th we had reached Shannon Island,
we found very thick ice on all ponds, and the land was frozen hard,
but this year, on Sept. Ist and even later, we found all ponds free of
ice, and the ground was so soft that we sank 4 4 8cm into it while
walking, and even during the latter part of September we were able
to make impressions on the clayey ground with our kamicks.
When we went down to Cape Philip Broke, it was our intention to
wait there until August Ist, and if no ship had come until then, to return
to our winter-quarter and try to get Capt. AMDRUP's boat into the water,
Report on the expedition. 135
in order to make an attempt to reach Cape Dalton. When the ship
did not arrive, we made several attempts to go to our winter-quarter,
but we failed owing to the impossibility of crossing the clayey and
marshy land of which almost the whole of Shannon Island is composed.
But the plan would have been frustrated, even if we had been able to
reach our winter-house, as the ice was pressed close on shore during the
whole of the summer and effectually prevented a boat from passing the
coast between Cape Pansch and Cape Philip Broke.
On Sept. 17th we had a violent gale with sleet, and its consequences
must have been severe to all grass-eating animals on Shannon Island
for the rest of the winter, as the whole land became covered with a crust
of ice 2 à 4 cm thick. On a walk lasting several hours we hardly saw
a bare spot of land, and on the march from the depot to our winter-
house on Sept. 20th we passed one long stretch after another, covered
with this kind of ice, so much in fact that we thought it quite feasible,
though we were only two of us, to haul Amprup’s boat on a sledge over
the plain, which was 4 miles broad.
This ice-sheet on land disappeared, when on Sept. 21st we came
nearer to the north end of Shannon Island, where no sleet had fallen
at all. Judging by the large amount of snow found there it seemed
that all the moisture, which on the south end of the island fell as rain,
had here come down as snow.
We remained in our winter-house from Sept. 21st to Oct. 17th, when
we finally left the house. In the meantime we had made some small
trips, advancing our stores etc., and had succesfully hunted musk-ox,
of which we found many west of Frozen Bay.
The early part of October was boisterous, raw and stormy, but the
latter half of October and the first week of November were surprisingly
calm, but very cold, the temperature being аз low as — 32°C.
The purpose of the autumn sledging was to haul Amdrup’s boat,
with full outfit, kerosene, clothing, some food ete. as far as Cape Philip
Broke, so that everything could be ready to start southward in a boat,
if the ship failed us again in 1912.
it was of course no easy matter to transport the boat, but it was
lashed firmly on a sledge, and two oars were raised to form a mast, on
which another oar was hoisted as a yard.
The tent-cloth did service as a sail, and with a northerly wind we
could make rather good progress, but it was difficult to keep the sledge
with the boat from turning over.
We transported in all 1200 kilo and had of course to go backwards
and. forwards several times in order to advance the whole load. The
total absence of wind made it difficult for us to transport the boat,
particularly over the rough, hummocky old ice in the middle of Frozen
Bay, and at last on November 2nd we had to leave the boat about 2
miles north of the bottom of Frozen Bay.
136 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
We got through with the rest of our outfit and reached Cape Philip
Broke with the first load on Nov. 11th. The ice in Freeden Bay could
not have been very old, as its surface was very salty, and the open water
almost touched land at the depot and extended so far towards the south
and SE as we could see. The edge of the pack-ice was only visible in
the ESE and from there all the way along the coast of Shannon
Island.
We made the house on Cape Philip Broke our basis, fetched up
the remainder of our outfit and had everything in safety by November
18th. On November 17th we passed to our great surprise six quite
fresh traces of musk-ox, almost in the middle of Freeden Bay. The
animals had headed SW, toward Pendulum Island. We concluded that
the thick layer of ice on land had made it impossible for the animals
to exist on Shannon Island, and that they. were now migrating.
We left Cape Philip Broke on November 20th and went out over
Freeden Bay with two sledges, of which the one was under sail and
dragged the other. We made good progress with the fresh NEwind
and nearly reached Bass Rock, before calm, rough ice, deep snow and
darkness compelled us to camp, very close to the open water. We reached
the American depots on Bass Rock November 21st and found them in
rather good order.
A vessel, the з/у “Laura” chartered by an Austrian, Mr. Козтев-
LITZ, had visited Bass Rock on July 24th and had left a message to
the effect that they would try to reach Shannon Island and look for us.
This had, however, been impossible, and I have later learned that the
s/y “Laura” became beset in the ice and drifted with it to the south
of Scoresby Sound. It was very unfortunate that we had left no mes-
sage here, but for the reasons already explained we did not think it
worth the trouble to cross Freeden Bay with the sledge. The final
result would, however, in any case have been the same, because it was
impossible for a ship to reach Cape Philip Broke, even if the men had
known that we were there and in distress.
We had now entered upon our third winter under rather favourable
conditions, as we found ample provisions and coal in the two houses
on Bass Rock. We had also carried meat with us from the place where
we shot the musk-oxen in Frozen Bay and had enough for more than
one month, so that we were in little danger of scurvy.
The conditions of the weather during the winter 1911—1912 formed
a remarkable contrast to those of the two preceding winters. Then
calm, clear weather was the rare exception, and gales or fresh winds
the rule. But this winter the state of affairs was entirely reversed, and
we had hardly any gales during the months of December, January and
February. This winter the temperature was also very much lower than
during the two preceding winters, and the quicksilver was frozen the
whole of the first week of February.
Report on the expedition. 137
On December 16th and February 16th we had very high tempera-
tures, in the first case as high as — 9°8, in the second as high as — 477.
In both cases it was quite clear and calm, and no reason could be alleged
for this sudden rise of temperature, particularly as the draft of the wind
came from the north, i.e. away from the water.
The fall of snow was surprisingly small during the winter until the
beginning of March, when there was rather a heavy snowfall. The small
local glaciers were quite bare of snow until March, and only 30cm of
snow was lying on the level sea-ice.
Footprints, made in the autumn and then about 5cm deep, rose
about 10 cm above the snow-level toward the end of February, and they
bore evidence of the decrease in the thickness of the layer of snow lying
on level ice. The conditions, however, became normal in April.
All winter the ice off Bass Rock was broken up close inland, and
on December 4th the breadth of the shore-ice was only 300 metres. The
land-water changed in breadth with the shifting winds, and ranged from
a few hundred metres to 4 å 5 miles. The motion in the pack-ice was
rather great durmg the winter, and the thin ice, which covered the
landwater, and which grew rather thick with the extremely low tem-
perature and calm weather, was continually broken up and drifted away.
Even the ice in the sheltered Freeden Bay broke up during the winter,
and a very large, open tract of water was always there, even with the
lowest temperatures.
The animal life was very poor during the winter, and our place was
only visited by three bears, a dozen foxes and a couple of hares. These
latter animals were so hungry that they were caught in a trap, baited
with dried vegetables.
Unfortunately we were unable to make observations of the aurora
borealis, as our fuel would not permit us to keep watch day as well as
night. Consequently our notes on these phenomena are scattered and
of no account whatsoever. It is a much discussed point, whether the
aurora borealis is able to throw light over the country or not, and only
once we noticed that this was the case. It was during the night of
Dec. 12th; the weather was quite clear and so dark that a stone was
invisible at a distance of only a few metres from the house. A little
later, when we came out, we were surprised at the difference, and we
were now able to see far about us. The aurora borealis in this case had
no defined shape, and was neither particularly large nor luminous. Its
colour was greenish. The light thrown over the country was so strong
that the details of a point about 1000 metres distant were quite clear,
and we thought that the light was strong enough to throw shadows.
It only lasted a quarter of an hour, after which everything was in dark-
ness, as before.
1912. In order to make preparations for a sledge-journey along
the coast to Cape Dalton and further to Angmagsalik, which we intended
138 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
to undertake rather than to be dependent upon the ships which might
or might not reach Shannon Island, we had to go to Cape Philip Broke
after some outfit left there, and the journey lasted from January 28th—
30th. It took so long, because we had to make a very long detour to
get inside the open water in Freeden Bay.
Judging by the many footprints of fox and bear it was evident
that a great number of these animals had been near the house, since
we left. They had done considerable damage, but had fortunately not
broken into the house. We shot a bear shortly after our arrival and
experienced one of these rare cases of a polar bear adopting offensive tac-
tics. The animal wanted to break into the house, and it was by mere
chance that we were able to shoot it, after it had burst the door. The
bear was not very old, its stomach was quite empty, and absolutely
no blubber was found inside its skin.
On Feb. 3rd we had the first gale since the beginning of December,
and it was not very strong.
The return-journey to Bass Rock was made from Feb. 10th—12th,
after the sun had returned.
All our outfit for the sledge-journey to the south was ready on
Feb. 28th, and we made a small sledge-trip to Walrus Island between
Feb. 29th and March 3rd, partly to find the depot left there by Na-
THORST for SVERDRUP, but chiefly to test our outfit, which was rather
heavy.
We could, however, hardly make any progress, though the ice was
in excellent condition, there being no more snow than usual during the
autumn and no snowbanks of any importance to leeward of the frozen-
in pieces of ice. It took us sixteen hours of the most strenuous.
work to cover the distance of only fourteen miles, and it was evident
that we lacked strength for the work in hand and had to abandon all
hope of managing the journey to Angmagsalik. The depot on the Walrus
Island had been removed by sealing vessels, and we found nothing whatso-
ever, but left a message in a cairn on the NEpoint of the Island, stating
therein that we lived on Bass Rock.
Our return-journey was as strenuous as the journey out, and we
realized with great regret that our strength had waned to such an ex-
tent that in the future we had to give up sledging any long distance.
We fell ill shortly after our return and suffered much from a severe
cold, and practically all of March was spent in the house or its imme-
diate neighbourhood, as we did not feel well enough to go abroad.
We wanted to make a final attempt to set ourselves free, this time
by means of the boat, already dragged across Frozen Bay in the autumn,
and on March 31st we left the house on Bass Rock. It was, however,
necessary to return and make our sledge lighter, as we could not drag
it through, although its weight did not exceed 90 kilo. We left the
house for good on April 3rd, and reached the house on Cape Sussi on
Report on the expedition. 139
April 6th. It seemed as if the attack of cold during the month of March
had left us still weaker than in February, as it was impossible for us
to work at hauling the sledge for more than 6 hours a day; likewise
we both felt excessively tired during the march and stiff and sore in all
limbs, when we began in the morning. It was evident that we would
be too weak to drag the boat, and also this project had to be given up
as impossible.
The condition of the ice was, from the beginning of the year,
different from what it had been during the two former years, and
we even saw a very broad lane of water, which extended along the east
coast of Shannon Island and as far towards Koldewey Island as could
be seen through glasses from the height of 300 metres.
Large tracts of open water were seen in between the pack-ice, and
the general impression was that of ice, which was easily navigable.
The house in our winter-harbour was left again on April 13th, and
we reached Cape Philip Broke on April 15th. Animals had broken into
the house, and foxes had dragged books out through the window and
left them scattered all over the snow.
There was very much open water to the south of Cape Philip Broke,
and no pack-ice could be seen from the height of 125 metres between
Bass Rock and true ESE. The ice came however close to the east coast
of Shannon Island, but seemed rather open. The water was covered
with thin ice.
We left Cape Philip Broke on April 17th, but we did not reach
Bass Rock till April 24th, as we were detained in camp by a two days’
snowstorm. The temperature rose so much after the storm that the
snow became wet and slushy, and it was necessary to resort to double
banking in order to get all our outfit with us. This little sledge-trip,
from Bass Rock to Shannon Island and back, was our last bit of sled-
ging-work and the remainder of the time, until the arrival of the ship,
was spent in the near vicinity of Bass Rock.
The weather during the remaining part of our stay on Bass Rock
was not like that of the two preceding summers. To begin with we
got a warm spell with very fine weather during the latter part of April,
when the temperature rose as high as — 2°6, and the snow on land
melted so fast that water flowed and collected in rather large ponds,
and the surface of the earth was quite soft, almost as it used to be during
the latter part of July. These conditions, however, changed during the
early days of May, when the weather once more became normal.
The weather was exceedingly cloudy and foggy during the months
of May, June and July, and quite clear weather was only recorded for
one day in May and three in June. The sun was visible through clouds
on a dozen days of each month, while the remainder of the days were
entirely cloudy or foggy. July was, however, a little better. The pre-
vailing winds had been decidedly northerly or easterly during the two
140 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
preceding summers, but this was entirely reversed during our third sum-
mer, when in the month of June the wind blew for twenty days from
the south and for five from the north.
These unusual wind-conditions altogether changed the state of the
pack-ice during the summer of 1912, and it became uncommonly favour-
able. The pack-ice was far removed from land, even in April and so
on during the whole of the summer, and it was very slack, as far as we
could see from an elevation of 300 a 400 metres.
The land-water decreased a little in extent during July, but the
belt of pack-ice must have been very open and narrow, as a northerly
gale, which blew on July 11th, raised a swell so heavy that it broke
up the land-ice and heaved the shore-ice at least 50—60cm up and down.
The strait between Bass Rock and Pendulum Island became im-
passable on July 10th, and the land-ice in the larger bays and along
the east side of Freeden Bay broke up and drifted away on July 17th.
The warm weather during the latter part of April had a lasting
effect on the vegetation of all the lower lands of Bass Rock and Pen-
dulum Island, which had been floated during this warm spell. These
areas froze during the ensuing cold snap, and the consequences were
that the growing vegetation became cased in ice, which either killed
it or delayed it so much that the flowers only began to bloom a couple
of weeks after they were blooming in more elevated parts.
The yellow poppy bloomed on July 22nd on the south end of
Bass Rock, which was exposed to the rays of the sun day and night,
but they were hardly even in buds on the east coast of Bass Rock at
the same time. But Bass Rock was on the whole rather bare of vege-
tation except mosses and rank grass between the hollows of the stones,
thus making a great contrast to the fertile Pendulum Island, the slopes
of which were covered with an abundance of grasses and mosses, but
surprisingly few willows. The north coast of Pendulum Island, which
was steep and very disintegrated, was contrary to expectations and in
spite of its exposed conditions, more fertile than any other part of the
neighbourhood. Several kinds of flowers were seen on Pendulum Island,
amongst which were the only bluebells, which we saw on this expedition.
They were in bloom on July 3rd.
The first sign of returning animal life in 1912 was seen on April
28th, when we noticed the first migratory birds i. e. a few snow-buntings.
Gulls were not seen till May 29th. A few guillemots were roosting on
Bass Rock and had eggs on June 3rd, but only very few birds lived
on this island, which we had expected to be a favorite place for roosting
birds, because of its steep and inaccessible cliffs.
The birds were, all told, rather scarce on Bass Rock as well as on
Pendulum Island, where we only saw some few eiderducks and geese,
besides ptarmigans. These latter had very few brown feathers on May
9th, when several couples were shot, and we were surprised to notice
Report on the expedition. 141
that the female birds had all begun to change their plumage, while the
male birds were as yet quite white. The first falcon was seen on May 9th.
The largest amount of any species of animals found on Pendulum
Island were hares, which were seen in surprising numbers, particularly
on the south end of the island in a large, sheltered valley. The hares
lived in flocks, most of which counted twenty animals or more, and
several flocks were seen at the same time. When frightened they all
ran towards the highland, even if we were standing above them.
Several traces of musk-ox were seen on the island, but we met
none of the animals themselves, although we walked all over the island.
During our rambles on Pendulum Island and Bass Rock we found
very many traces of former Eskimo inhabitants, particularly on Bass
Rock where remains were found in all level places. Meat-câches, built
up with great care, were found in large numbers just north of our house,
and chips, shavings, feathers, hair and bones were found in them and in
one case even about 1 meter of walrus-spine, where the sinews still bound
the vortex together. A few tent-rings were seen close by our house.
More remains were found on the SE point of Bass Rock, 1. e. meat-
caches, as well as hunting shelters and nine tent-rings, besides two graves,
in which, however, we could find no skeletons, but the graves were opened,
and the skeletons might have been removed by the members of former
expeditions. Wherever we found stones collected by the Eskimos, we
removed them in our search for implements, but the result was of no
importance whatsoever, and we only found a few spearheads, some bone
arrows and small pieces of wood or bone, in which holes had been bored
as well as pieces of an ivory sledge-runner. On the few level gravel-beds
we found some few implements, evidently dropped by accident, but
nothing of any importance.
A third cluster of tent-rings, meat-cäches, shelters etc. were found
on a low, level gravel-beach on the west coast of Bass Rock, and also
some almost complete skeletons of narwhal and walrus, but no im-
plements of any kind.
The Eskimos have, however, only lived on Bass Rock during the
summer, and their winter-houses were situated on Pendulum Island, in
a small bight to the south of Cape Hartlaub. There were the remains
of six houses in all, but the winter-place must have been used at widely
different periods, as two of the houses were much older than the other
four. The ruins were, however, so old that they had collapsed entirely
and were covered with vegetation. The turf covering the ruins was
frozen as far as we could cross to Pendulum Island from Bass Rock,
and we were thus unable to dig out the ruins. No meat-cäches or any
other artificially erected stone-structures were found in the immediate
vicinity of these houses, but many of these, as well as fox-traps, were
seen near Cape Hartlaub.
The time which we spent on Bass Rock awaiting the arrival of a
142 Esnar MIKKELSEN. Report on the expedition.
vessel, was thus taken up with hunting and short excursions to Pendulum
Island, until July 10th when open water compelled us to remain on Bass
Rock. We often climbed to the very top of the rock and noticed that
it was covered with small angular and quite thin stone-slabs, never
more than 10 4 15cm in extent. The same kind of stone-slabs were
seen in other places on the top of basalt mountains, but hardly ever
down their slopes.
Our period of waiting came to an end on July 19th, when in the
early morning the Norwegian steamer “Sjéblomsten” Capt. LILLENES
arrived at Bass Rock. We went to Cape Philip Broke onboard the
steamer, but failing to find walrus the ship headed south for Gael Ham-
kes Bay.
All of July 20th was spent in Gael Hamkes Bay, which was quite
open as far in as to Cape Stosch, where progress was stopped by un-
broken ice. We could, however, see that the Inlandice encircled Jordan
Hill Island and barred the fjord along a line from Cape Blosseville —
Cape Oetker, almost to Loch Fine.
The return-journey was begun on July 20th at 5 a.m., and the
pack-ice, when we reached it about 20 miles off land, was very slack
and consisted of quite small floes, the breadth of the belt of pack-ice
not exceeding 75 miles on a true SE-course. The open water was reached
on July 21st at 8 a.m., and we arrived in Aalesund on July 28th 1912.
IL.
REPORT CONCERNING THE REMAINING
PART OF THE EXPEDITION
DURING MIKKELSEN’S SLEDGE-JOURNEYS
BY
WILHELM LAUB
The period from Sept. 25" to Dec. 17 1909.
Plate III.
HILST Capt. MIKKELSEN undertook the sledge journey to Lambert's
Land, and after OLSEN and I — who had accompanied the
sledging party some of the way towards north, principally to get our
dogs and ourselves into training — had returned on the 2nd of October
we made some trips in the vicinity of our winter quarters.
The first trip was undertaken to Haystack by PouLsen and myself
from 13th—23rd October. Bad weather forced us to stay at Haystack
for six days altogether, but during this time we managed to investigate
the peninsula and the immediate surroundings. Worthy of special men-
tion is a river debouching due south from the spot where Haystack
joins the mainland, and which ends in a rather large delta. (Fig. 64).
The river flows in a southeasterly direction (true) between steep
mountains, and further out between high heaps of rubble up to 75
metres. The river, between the mountains, is about forty metres broad
and four metres deep.
Four miles from the coast the river ran through a large valley, which
in all probability is flooded in summer, as the stones in this valley were
polished and quite smooth. From the valley the river went further in
for about four miles, where it was seen to flow between hills a hundred
metres high at a depth not exceeding a metre in some places. The river
was fed by five small confluents, all coming from a northwesterly
direction.
Moreover, it looks as if there is a valley region northwards for
about six miles into the country, stretching behind the hills on the east
coast and up to Bessel Bay; this latter deduction I made by noticing
the way in which the shadow from the sun fell across the country.
As regards ice-conditions we were much better off this time than
on our previous tour, by keeping closer in to the mainland — Hochstetter
Forland — where there was a lot of new ice very good for sledging, com-
pared to the heavy ridges northward of Shannon Island up to Koldewey
Island.
Lil. 10
RE EIER,
TR
146 WILHELM LAuB.
The next tour was undertaken by UNGER and myself from 28/,,
ZU, 1909.
We went north and west of Shannon Island, in order to survey the
coast and on the 4th of November we arrived at the Shannon Island
depot at Cape Philip Broke, the south-eastern point of the island
(Fig. 65). The ice had been good the whole way, smooth new ice
everywhere along the west coast of Shannon Island and over Freeden
Bay. At the latter place, however, we drove on quite thin ice during
the last four hours before reaching the depot. The ice was only
5—6cm thick and broke up the same night we arrived at the depot,
and the next day open water extended far away into Freeden Bay.
N.
и ]
CEN je we)
= IM N
ES
aS CR
N SÅ
Fig. 64. The river at Haystack.
We stayed at the depot for a week, expecting the ice to freeze solid,
so that we might get to Bass Rock, but as our expectations were not
fulfilled, we returned to our winter quarters on the IIth.
Here we were to take tidal observations for a month, and therefore
we all four stayed on, especially as the said observations had to be
taken before Christmas.
One man had to look after this for 24 hours at a stretch, this division
of labour proving the most practical with regard to our other duties on
board the ship. These consisted furthermore in taking daily meteoro-
logical observations, looking after the dogs, bringing provisions ashore,
besides making the vessel ready for the winter, by covering her entirely
(Fig. 66). This was done with our spare sails, which were laid over a
wooden frame, but I shall, point out that this method should only
Mepp. om GRØNL. LII.
Fig. 65. The Shannon Depot at Cape Philip Broke. 6/11 1909.
> |
Fig. 66. »Alabama« in winter-harhour, prepared for winter. 27/10 1909.
№
Mepp. om Свомь. LIT,
8. 67. Open water ой the Shannon Depot.
6/11 1909.
Bass Воск.
\
Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition. 147
be adopted when conditions of space prevent one from bringing planks
for the purpose. Sooner or later a canvas covering gets carried away,
especially when made of sails which are intended for subsequent use,
and which one does not wish to spoil by cutting up.
As a matter of fact one cannot cover the whole ship with one sail
only, such as the mainsail, and thus there are apertures which it is im-
possible to cover up entirely, so that a gale sooner or later finds out the
weak spots through which it can penetrate, and if it has once got in
under the sail such a canvas roof is doomed beyond repair.
In the evening of the 17th December the sledge party from Lam-
bert’s Land returned to Alabama Havn.
Remarks concerning the current round Shannon Island.
Respecting the open water at Shannon Island and farther south, I
should here like to state my views. During the course of the expedi-
tion I stayed at the Shannon depot at Cape Philip Broke four times,
on the following dates 4/,,—11/,, 1909, 8/,—12/,, 18/,—15/, and 15/,—?"/,
1910 and at Bass Rock and Sabine Island from 8/.—!?/, 1910. Each
time it was apparent that the open water was close to the Shannon
depot, and moreover during my stay in November far up in Freeden
Bay (Fig. 67). Only when I stayed there in January was it removed
about 3 to 4 miles from the depot in a southeasterly direction,
but again in June and July the open water reached right up to the
depot. In the following sketch the conditions are shown as they were
observed from the top of Bass Rock on the ?/, 1910 and the following
night from the southern point of Sabine Island (Fig. 68).
Everything indicates that there is a current running in a southern
direction to the westward of Shannon Island and then southeast be-
tween Shannon Island and the group of islands, Bass Rock, Pendulum
and Sabine. This current has possibly become swollen by the liberated
waters from Ardencaple Inlet, which flows from the Inlandice.
The many fissures in the perfectly smooth ice to the westward of
Shannon Island would appear also to indicate the existence of a
current here.
From our sojourn in the ice on the outward tour with the “Alabama”,
we know that the current flows rapidly along the east coast of Shannon
Island, as at that time we were ice-bound from 2!/,—?4/, 1909, and during
this period drifted from a point about ten miles NE of Cape Pansch
and did not get free until we were abreast of Bass Rock, which
means that in that time we had drifted about fifty miles to the south-
ward. We estimated the daily set of the current at that time at about
fifteen miles in a southerly direction, but it must also be borne in
mind that at certain hours of the day there must be a current going
northwards on account of the tide, in some way eliminating the
10*
В
LAN
148 WILHELM LAUB.
current running south, which runs south along the East coast of
Greenland round Cape Farewell and northward along the West coast
of Greenland. As mentioned before tidal observations were taken for
С. Bremen
7 ANS NAN
re BD Su
JAce=fields ci
SEA, ERA TER
WER
Sn с =
Ay)
С. Desbrowe A
open water
2 9 Hoalroséen Sn
\\ og © > RS
! 2 N
) vr ERS
| ебет ~ ee
SER = à
open water
Fig. 68. Sketch showing the ice round Shannon, Pendulum and Sabine Islands
on the °—"/,¢, 1910.
a month from 1°/,,—1%/,, 1909 at Alabama Havn. These observations
showed a difference between high and low water of about 1.60 metres.
Along the western coast of Shannon Island, however, this difference
is less, judging from the tidal marks on the coast, and from this I
deduce the fact that the current flowing south must be considerably
Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition. 149
stronger. Moreover, as the water has to force its way through the
comparatively narrow sound between Shannon Island and the main-
land, there must be a stronger current.
The objection may be raised that it is curious to find such smooth
ice at this place, but this, I think, has its origin in the small tidal dif-
ference. The current flowing southwards will thus be the dominating
one, whilst that going north will be but a slight current or may be
none at all, it being ultimately absorbed by the constant arctic current
flowing south, and by reason of these conditions I am of opinion that
the ice-pressure disappears or is, at any rate, but slight.
I cannot speak definitely as to how the soundings are here, but
everything would seem to indicate a comparatively great depth, as there
were no stranded icebergs in the waters between Shannon Island and the
mainland, nor in the bay between Shannon and Sabine Islands and
Bass Rock.
The fact that icebergs are not to be met with at the first place
may perhaps be accounted for by the extension of a submerged ridge
from Haystack to Shannon Island, as several stranded icebergs were
to be found to the east of this line, and none or only some small
ones west of this line.
In the bay SW of Shannon Island one might reasonably expect to
find icebergs of a slight depth, as the Ardencaple Inlet debouches here,
which I presume ends in a glacier from which icebergs are formed and
not simply in an inactive glacier.
The sledge journey to the west of Dronning
Louise’s Land.
April 10th—May 23rd 1910.
The plan and outfitting.
Before the departure from the winter quarters on the 3rd of March
for the sledge journey to the bottom of Danmark’s Fjord, which was to
be undertaken by Capt. MIKKELSEN and IVERSEN, it had been arranged
that the mates OLSEN and POULSEN together with myself should ac-
company them as an auxiliary party, chiefly to assist the main party
in ascending the Inlandice and on the first advance on it, according
to the plan as far as about 78° №. Lat. At about 77° №. Lat. a depot
was to be laid down on the Inlandice for the auxiliary party, so that
we, after having separated from the main body, were to return to
the depot and thence go west on the Inlandice and west and south
of Dronning Louise’s Land descending from the Inlandice at the
bottom of the Ardencaple Inlet, and from there to the winter quarters
on Shannon Island.
For the execution of this plan the party had at its disposal pro-
150 WILHELM LAUB.
visions for thirty-two days and food for six dogs for thirty days, so
calculated that two of the dogs were to be killed during the journey
as food for the remaining ones.
The daily ration for the men was the same as that allotted to
the main party, and consisted of 0.98 kg. daily, whilst for the dogs it
was based upon 0.30 kg. of dog pemmican.
The rest of the equipment was as shown in the following.
Cooking utensils.
Case for the utensils.
Primus apparatus with grill (the grill was very quickly discarded, it
having proved quite useless).
Spare parts for the Primus, consisting of four leather packings, four
ebonite packings, one top piece, one mouthpiece, six asbestos pack-
ings and twenty-four spare cleaning-needles.
Funnel for filling petroleum.
2 cooking pots with lids.
3 bowls.
3 spoons.
1 keg of spirit.
3 can-openers.
2 packets of matches, one of which was in a soldered tin box, in case
the sledge got into the water.
Total weight = 8.3 kg.
Sledge equipment.
Sledge.
— mast.
— sail.
Tackle.
Spare harness (3).
100 metres of alpine rope.
1 pair of skis.
1 ski-staff.
Weight = about 39 kg.
We had only one pair of skis with us, I being the only one of the
party accustomed to use them, and it was thought I might in this
manner walk ahead of the sledge. As will be seen later on, they proved
of great utility in another way.
Ice equipment.
1 spade.
1 ice hook.
1 axe.
Weight = about 41|, kg.
Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition. 151
Tent equipment.
outer tent-covering.
inner —
tent poles.
sleeping-bags.
covers for sleeping-bags.
snow brush.
kamiut-stick.
sleeping skins.
Weight = about 421» kg.
After the parties separated, the sleeping skins were left behind at
a tent place in order to diminish the weight, which was thus reduced
by about seven kilos.
CO Hi Hi OO Oo HR Hi mi
Tools.
1 Yankee tool-chest.
1 marline-spike.
1 pair of pliers.
3 sailmaker’s needles.
Half a ball of twine.
Half a ball of tarred twine.
1 sailpalm.
1 saw.
Wax.
Weight = about 11|, kg.
Medicine.
Quinine, cocaine, antiphebrin powders, aperient pills, constipating pills,
boracic vaseline, lanoline vaseline, one box of soda cakes, a pair of
scissors and two packets of bandaging.
Weight = about Z/, kg.
Instruments.
1 sextant.
1 theodolite.
1 stand.
almanac and tables.
books for observations.
pocket compass.
— barometer.
sling-thermometers.
minimum-thermometer.
pencils.
piece of indiarubber.
case of instruments.
Se DH WHE о
152 WILHELM LAUB.
1 map.
1 camera.
12 rolls of films in a tin box.
1 pair of spare snow goggles.
Weight = about 121/, kg.
Guns and ammunition.
1 rifle.
1 rifle lock.
50 shot cartridges.
50 cartridges.
Weight = about 12 kg.
Furthermore clothing for each man consisting of
set of underwear.
fur outer anorak.
- inner —
pair of fur trousers.
canvas anorak.
pair overalls.
pairs of stockings.
pair of Finn-shoes.
pair of loose soles.
pair of woollen mittens.
pair of fur mittens.
pair of canvas mittens.
pair of sealskin mittens.
cap.
Total weight = 8,6 kg. per man, besides spare clothing per
man comprising:
1 pair of drawers.
4 pairs of stockings.
3 pairs of mittens.
5 pairs of canvas mittens.
1 pair of fur mittens.
2 pairs of fur stockings.
4 pairs of kamicks, for my personal use 3 pairs of Finn-shoes instead of
kamicks.
Finally sennegrass and diary.
Oo roo are
Weight = about 8 kg. per man.
Moreover I had a pair of Laupar-shoes for use when skiing; several
times I wore Finn-shoes, but they were not suitable, as it was impossible
Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition. 153
to fasten them quite tightly to the skis, a sine qua non if the full benefit
is to be got. They must fit on to the foot in such a way that they form
part of the body.
The total weight on the sledge was:
Cookme ОВ: seien. 8.3 kg.
Sledgevequipment. ... „2. cee ces ae. 39 -
ОИ ПЕ SS een sen. 4.5 -
ent equipment: еее. №. 42.5 -
о. 1.5 -
ее u а 0.7 -
Instruments Ya ee wo ttn about 12.5 -
ne ee en - 12 -
рае CIO 2 UE EP 24 -
Mens) р нь 108 -
Dog О 50 -
303 kg
There was, furthermore, a lot of ice on the outer covering of the
tent, caused partly by the fact that the dogs actually melted into the
snow, which was always put round the tent to weigh it down, so as to
prevent it from blowing away, and partly by rime frost in the tent,
and although the latter was carefully brushed off every morning, there
generally remained a rather large quantity of ice on the tent. I shall
not go into further details here respecting the construction of the tent,
which was of the same kind as the one Capt. MIKKELSEN used, and I
cannot speak too highly of its practicability, it being easy to set up
and without backstays, and not lable to be destroyed by the dogs,
which very soon get into such a state of hunger that they devour
anything they can get their teeth into, even the backstays; and, more-
over, the tent by reason of its half-spherical surface can be exposed to
violent storms without being overturned.
Before I proceed to describe the sledge journey itself, I must first
mention that it was not carried out according to the programme, on
account of circumstances which had occurred, and at the same time I
will quote the written instructions respecting the tour which I received
from Capt. MIKKELSEN two days before we parted company.
April 8th 1910.
To Lieutenant Laub.
With reference to the entry in the order book of the ?7/, the green
yawl was to be placed on the coast of the continent, but instead of this
kindly put one or, if possible, two kayaks at the same place, with a
small depot for two men and three dogs.
With regard to the sledge journey which you, assisted by the mates
154 WILHELM LAUB.
OLSEN and POULSEN, are to undertake after leaving me to morrow, I
wish to make the following remarks: You have in the depot thirty-two
days’ provisions for three men and thirty days’ food for four dogs, and
I consider this supply sufficient to enable you to carry out the tour
north and west of Dronning Louise’s Land with a descent at the Arden-
caple Inlet or Dove Bay, in such a way that you choose the place from
"which you can most quickly get down to the coast. The object of the
tour is the surveying of the NW and SE coasts. The ice has been more
impassable on the stretch we have travelled over than anticipated, but
seemingly better both towards north and west. I beg you to be cau-
tious and not advance further than you can see your retreat clear. Should
the ice compel you to turn back, so that the return journey lies north
of Dronning Louise’s Land, you may in case of dire necessity open our
depot case at about 77°10’ N. lat., and take from it six days’ provisions
for two men, and five kg. dogs’ food, but you must take care to cover
the case, so that the snow cannot penetrate it. If you make use
of these provisions the descent must take place at the same spot as the
ascent, and you can take as much petrol from the supply lying in the
depot as is absolutely necessary for you to make “Alabama”. Besides
in case of absolute necessity you can take the stores shghtly south of
Cape Teufel, but you are requested to take only the minimum in order
to make the depot at Haystack, which supplies you may take with
you and replenish afterwards, together with petrol.
On your sledge jurney over the Inlandice, you are requested to take
meteorological observations at 7 a.m. and afterwards every hour until
you pitch your tent, so that data may be available for a comparison
of the weather conditions in the districts where you and I are.
You are likewise requested to note the nature of the ice in the stretch
of ground covered by you daily. In the event of your reaching land at
Dronning Louise’s Land, I shall be glad if you will collect botanical and
geological specimens, and above all, do not forget to keep a careful
diary of the sledge journey.
(signed) (signed )
W. Глов. EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
The Sledge journey.
Plate I and III.
After a little jollification in our tent in honour of Capt. MIKKELSEN
and IVERSEN, who were proceeding northwards alone, we started off
on the 10th of April 1910 in a southerly direction for our depot, laid
down on April 6th at about 77°10’ N. Lat. Before we separated we
gave to the other party a further three days’ provisions, as we thought
we could spare them and get back to our depot in a day and a half.
We arranged ourselves in the following manner round the sledge:
A forerunner walking five or six metres in front in a long trace — as a
Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition. 155
rule I was the forerunner — then came the dogs, afterwards the other
two by the sledge, one on either side of it, both harnessed. In this manner
we sledged the whole way, and it turned out to be a very practical
arrangement, as one got the utmost work out of the dogs, by letting
them have a man to pull after, all the more as among the six dogs there
was not a single one which was specially fit to act as leader. Until we
parted company we had each of us driven our special team, which we
were accustomed to from previous tours, but between Capt. MIKKELSEN
and myself the arrangement was made, that when we separated, he was
to have the best fifteen of the twenty-one dogs; which was only reason-
able, considering that he was going to undertake the big tour. So, as
far as we were concerned, we got the six poorest dogs, and there was
not one among them which had ever been a leader.
On the first day we sledged about twelve miles — one mile — a nau-
tical mile — 1852 metres — crossing the very fissured ground we had
passed on the 7th of April, and pitched our tent well south of this
ground, our object being to let the tent remain, and sledge down to the
depot from which we were to take our stores, and with these we were
to return to the tent, a matter of a day’s march of twelve miles.
We did not wish to exceed this distance the first few days, for fear of
exhausting the dogs, which by this time had already begun to fall
off and get wearied.
But on April 11th there was no sledging. Already during the night
a gale sprang up, and in the morning it was quite impossible to sledge
ou account of the gale, especially as it was snowing hard at the same
time, so that it was impossible for us to see our way. Neither was it
any better on the 12th, so that we had to remain in the tent. Not until
the 13th did the storm abate, and we were able to make a start.
Enforced idleness on a sledge tour is, as a rule, a terrible nuisance.
The first day it may be all right, there is always some repairing to be
done to clothes or so on, but if the delay is extended over several days,
it is certainly not pleasant. The only thing to be done is to attempt
to sleep, but this is rendered difficult by thinking over how one is to get
ahead.
But there was one advantage with these two and a half days of
stoppage; they gave the dogs a good chance to rest, which was what
they were badly in need of.
Until the 17th we were on ground we were familiar with, as we had
moreover a day and a half’s delay on account of a fresh storm. As soon
as an opportunity offered through the cessation of the bad weather
we sledged further, but the heavy sledge and the bad ground caused
us much trouble, and we decided to throw away a lot of things which
we could dispense with, such as the sledge mast (pole), sealskin mittens,
canvas mittens etc., and in this way we were able to reduce the load
on the sledge by 17 to 20 kg.
156 WILHELM LAUB.
On the 17th we were on a hill (elevated ground) of about 440 m
above sea level nearly four miles from the north-east coast of Dronning
Louise’s Land at 77°19’ N. Lat. The Inlandice between Ymer’s Nunatak
and Dronning Louise’s Land was observed to rise considerably about
seven to eight miles west of our tent ground, but it appeared to be a
good, even road. After having made a survey and sketched and photo-
graphed we proceeded in the evening on a trip to the west in order.
to find a good road for the next day. On further investigation the road,
however, proved to be anything but level, consisting as it did of hum-
mocks of about ten to twelve metres in height, with holes interspersed.
Even if the ground could not be regarded as dangerous, as there were
no actual crevasses, still it was difficult to traverse, being entirely bare
of snow; only at intervals there was a snowdrift which could assist us
in some way by enabling the dogs to get a proper foothold. On the slip-
pery ice it was impossible for them to make any headway, as they could
not stand on it, but kept on shpping and falling all the time. As far
as we ourselves were concerned, it was necessary to resort to our ski
poles so as to keep our footing. The sledge gave us practically no sup-
port, because it, generally speaking, constantly had a side slip. As to
the forerunner it was absolutely necessary for him to avail himself of
his ski-pole.
The same day we had the regrettable misfortune to lose three days’
rations, as the dogs in our absence from the tent had broken into it and
regaled themselves on the food, which had not been closed up in the
cases. This was a considerable loss to us, about a tenth part of our total
rations having been “appropriated”’.
The culmination of surprises occurred on April 18th. In the fore-
noon the sledging was rather good, as we had picked up our tracks from
the previous evening on the first part of the journey. The ice had prac-
tically no incline, but only the old irregular surface, bare of snow. About
three miles from the tent ground which we left on the morning of the 18th,
having sledged along in a westerly direction, we passed a belt of rubble and
stone going ша NNW by SSE direction (Fig. 69). Whether this was the sur-
face of the ground (bedrock) appearing here, or only loose bits of stone
carried along by the ice in its advance, I am not in a position to deter-
mine, but the correct surmise would appear to be that it is the actual
ground, and I propose to return to a discussion of the matter. From
this point of observation we noticed that further ahead a perfectly ver-
tical glacier appeared, which was named Suzanne Glacier (Fig. 70). For
the next three miles the ice was very smooth and covered with a rather
thick layer of snow. When I say that the ice was smooth, I mean
that the rugged formation disappeared, whilst at the same time the
surface became like a large hilly territory, with long even hills and val-
leys, which at last, as we came nearer up to the edge of the glacier, became
shorter and shorter, finally assuming the character of regular crevices, and
Mepp. om Gront. LI.
ae Fig. 69. Belt of rubble and stone on the Iniandice. 1/4 1910,
Fig. 70. Suzanne Glacier and the Nunatak in front. 21/4 1910.
MEDD. om Свомг. LII.
Fig. 72. Sledge in a riverbed near Suzanne Glacier. 21/1 1910.
Fig. 73.
Lake A of the »Sostersoerne« seen from the east.
Suzanne Glacier visible behind. 21/4 1919,
dons
a
ii
Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition. 157
the ice was again bare of snow. We advanced a further three miles through
this territory, it then being necessary to unload the sledge, which could no
longer make progress with a full load. With half a load — the tent
with the tackle and its appurtenances, cooking case etc. was left — we
proceeded a bit further towards a Nunatak situated about a mile east
of Suzanne Glacier (see Fig. 70). From this spot we could see the rock
projecting at several places in the glacier. The ice lay close up to the
bach 2},
sis lomer
andice
Es Te
пе
Eder
higher Inlandice
ae.
——— ЕЕ
/ IEEE | €
ЕЕ ED) т
oe
N
Ste
co
ale
Fig. 71. Sostersoerne.
Nunatak from NW (see point c at Fig. 71) through north and east to
south, whilst towards the south from point c the Nunatak extended
about 300m and still sloped towards the south, after which an arm
turned in a southwesterly direction right on to the glacier. In this
way a lake is formed with perfectly smooth ice, and bordered as fol-
lows: towards the east and south by the Nunatak, to the west by the
perpendicular glacier front and on the north coast by the ice which here
sloped down towards the glacier, intersected by small crevasses running
in a northerly and southerly direction. This lake is named “Lake A”’ of
the “Sostersserne’” (sisters’ lakes); some days later we discovered
another lake, close up to “Lake A” and this other lake is named “Lake В”
(Fig. 71). The Nunatak was, as far as we could observe, devoid of any
vegetation. We ascended it, but saw nothing whatever, neither moss nor
158 WILHELM LAUB.
grass, and nothing which proved that there had been any the previous
summer.
At 8.15 p. m. we returned with the sledge to the place, where we
took half load, and here we set up our tent. This place became then
our camping site for some time, the 19th and 20th of April, as we encoun-
tered another storm, this time from the west, with masses of snow. On
the 20th the storm was at its height with a wind velocity of 10 by
Beaufort’s scale.
As regards the direction of the wind during the journey until we
turned back, it appeared that it was as follows: On the west of Dron-
ning Louise’s Land southerly, on the north westerly, and on the east
northerly, which meant as far as we were concerned, that.as soon as it
came on to blow, we had the wind right in our faces, and this was ex-
tremely unpleasant to sledge against, it being at times absolutely im-
possible to make any headway, on account of frostbites in the face and
because the dogs’ eyes became filled with snow, which we had to clean
out every five minutes.
Not until the 219 at noon was the weather such as to permit
sledging, and in the course of an hour we arrived with the comparatively
small sledge load at the spot to which we had driven our things three
days previously. The ice from here right up to Suzanne Glacier was
full of crevasses in a northerly and southerly direction (Fig. 72), and
then the front of the glacier turned out to be quite perpendicular, so
that any ascent there would have been impossible.
So there was nothing else for us to do but to come down to the
lake and otherwise to hug the glacier front and follow the foot of it, until
we got to the north coast of Dronning Louise’s Land, in order to get to
the more elevated Inlandice there. The size of the lake was about a
mile in an easterly direction and at the broadest part, viz the western
end nearest the glacier, about 1500 metres (Fig. 73).
As previously stated the ice on Lake A was as smooth as glass.
The arm, running from the Nunatak in a southwesterly direction, was
only some few metres higher than the level of Lake A and in some
places showed signs of vegetation, a little moss and some straw from the
previous summer.
About 15 to 20 metres from the glacier the arm ceased or was at
any rate entirely covered with snow. At this point the glacier turned
off in a SSE direction, always with its vertical front, and along the
glacier there was a snow-drift which ran down to a lake of about a
square mile in area, about 50 metres below Lake A (see Fig. 71).
This lake, like the one previously mentioned, was as smooth as glass,
but otherwise it was filled with icebergs. Its borders are: Towards the
west the glacier front of the Suzanne Glacier; to the south the north
coast of Dronning Louise’s Land; from the south and up through east
to north and further along the northern coast of the lake, the Inland-
MEDD. om Gront. LII.
Leh ee Oe ER
Fig. 74. Lake В of the »Sostersoerne« seen from the west.
To the right: Dronning Louise’s Land. 2!/; 1919.
Fig. 75. Ascending the Suzanne Glacier from lake В
of the »Sostersoernes. 2/4 1910.
MEDD. om GRØNL. Ш].
#
£
2 SOM]
Fig. 76. Lake В of the »Søstersøerne« seen from Suzanne Glacier.
To the right Dronning Louise’s Land. Behind the Indlandice west of Germania Land. 2/4 1910
Point A
оное hy
Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition. 159
ice; and the last part, the western end of the northern side, was bordered by
the aforesaid Nunatak, which here stood with a steep wall facing south.
We did not undertake any soundings trough the ice, but judging by
appearances, chiefly the colour, it would seem as if this last, lowest
lying lake, Lake B, was considerably deeper, and in support of this may
be cited the numerous icebérgs frozen into the lake (Fig. 74).
At 8 o’clock in the evening of 21/, we set up our tent in the south-
westerly corner of the lake, in order to undertake investigations regarding
the ascent of the glacier on the following morning.
I will, however, from this very camping site narrate an episode
which might possibly be of importance for other expeditions, or, at any
rate, exhort to caution, because in our case it might have cost OLSEN
his life.
We had set up the tent, and PouLsen was feeding the dogs, whilst
OLSEN had been asked to get me some ice for cooking purposes. Just
outside the tent lay a block of ice about three metres in diameter. OLSEN
and I agreed that it would be possible to get some good ice there. He
chopped away at the block quite lightly with an axe, but this slight
touch caused it to suddenly shift, and, with a loud report, it slid
down on to the ice, because it lay slightly higher up on the firm ground.
It just missed OLSEN, who was standing a little to one side of it; had
he been but a fraction lower down, he would have had the whole lot
over him and been crushed to death.
The ascent took place on the morning of the 22nd of April after
we had investigated whether there was not possibly a place where
the whole sledge with its load and everything could be taken up at
one time, but it could not be done (Fig. 75).
POULSEN now stayed by the tent, whilst OLSEN and I went round
the land with the dogs and up on to the Suzanne Glacier, which
here right in to the land was very much lower than farther north. The
height of the perpendicular wall was about 25 metres, and from here it
sloped up very steep, but not more than one could climb with care
about 20 metres on to the nearly vertical declivity. At this spot a
platform was built in the ice, in such a way that a man could stand
here securely, and about 50 metres further up there was another large
platform upon which we could place the load, as it was brought up,
whilst the dogs could make this their starting point. The alpine rope
was then brought down, and with the 100 metres’ long trace which we
thus had at our disposal we were able to make use of the dogs. Whilst
I myself drove them along up on the glacier, OLSEN, who sat upon the
first platform, supported the trace until the sledge came up to him,
and then he followed it up to the second platform, where it was loaded
up. In this way we were able to get all our tackle on to the glacier
in five journeys, but we had to leave our sleeping skins behind in
order to decrease the weight. (Fig. 76).
LA
160 WILHELM LAUB.
At 12 o’clock noon on 22nd April we had all our tackle up and were
ready to-drive further. All went well now until 6.30 p.m. The going
was good but very slippery, in some places quite smooth ice, and at
the same time a rather sharp ascent, a gradient of 420 metres on a 12
miles’ stretch.
As far as the country is concerned here on the north coast, the fol-
lowing is worthy of note. The Ymer’s Nunatak (mentioned by Captain
Косн from his journey to the Inlandice in the spring of 1908) appeared
to be covered by the Inlandice towards west, where the ice without
any visible demarcation joined the land, contrasting greatly with
the east point, which rose steep from the ice. With reference to the
north coast of Dronning Louise’s Land, it appeared to consist of is-
lands among which the Inlandice floated. In the very centre of the
north coast a long fjord stretched in a southerly direction, whilst we also
observed some “fjords” going in E—W direction from the first named
fjord (Fig. 77—78). It was very difficult to find a camping site that
evening, on account of the absence of snow; but after a good half
hour’s search we came across a snow-drift with just sufficient snow so
that the tent poles could stand firm and the lower part of the canvas
be covered.
From this place we then made a survey of the environs, but un-
fortunately it became also our involuntary camping site for three days
altogether, as a gale sprang up in the course of the night to the ac-
companiment of a heavy fall of snow, so that surveying and sledging
were equally impossible. If only the wind had been at our backs, sled-
ging would have been possible, but as stated before, it always turned
out to blow along the coast, and was therefore right in our faces. Finally
on 25th of April in the evening it cleared up and began to abate, and at
8.30 p.m. we started, overjoyed to get away from the very unsatisfactory
camp. But it was not altogether pleasant. It is true, the ice was quite
good and even, and the further we advanced in the direction of our
course, which was now true SW, there was more and more snow upon
the ice. The ground was, however, constantly rising, altogether 250 m
on the distance (about 10 miles) which we had sledged on this march;
but what worried us much was the stiff breeze, a velocity of 3 to 4
Beaufort’s scale add to which — 27°C., so that we had constantly to
thaw one another’s noses and cheeks by rubbing.
The land which now ran in a southwesterly direction still proved
to be formed of nunataks, covered by the Inlandice towards west,
whilst towards east it faced the ice with steep slopes (Fig. 79). At
half past one in the morning we had reached an island extending from
east to west. This island, Juel Brockdorff’s Nunatak, forms the north-
westerly point of Dronning Louise’s Land, but here we were obliged to
camp, as OLSEN had three fingers on the one hand and one ear and his
right heel frost-bitten, and we did not wish to expose ourselves to serious
‘OIGL ‘lez “UJIOU OU} полу U998 'pueT з.эзтот Suruuoigq JO ged WIOUMON "22 ‘SLT
1 | ТТТ “INOWD WO "aaa
"уедечи м SJOXY зима ‘у yulod
MEDD. om Gront. LII.
Prins Axel’s Nunatak. Kreb’s Nunatak.
1 }
Fig. 79. North-western part of Dronning Louise’s Land. %5/, 1910.
rae _ Juel-Brockdorff’s Nunatak.
Splinten. Lembceke’s Nunatak.
i at
ig.
80. The interior of Dronning Louise’s Land seen from the top of Henius’ Nunatak.
29/4 1910.
Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition. 161
consequences from frost-bite, which we knew might cause us great
difficulty and inconvenience.
Also in this camp the storm and the keen wind found us out
and kept us prisoners on the 27th and 28th. I wrote in my diary for the
28th: “One day is worse than another, as we have again to-day a keen
wind blowing dead against us, so that sledging was out of the question.
As time hung heavy on my hands in the afternoon, I resolved, despite
the weather, to go a short way to the south along the coast, in order to
see something new. I went 7 to 8 miles and then on to a nunatak,
from which I could see the land stretching in a southerly direction,
so that I think I reached the westernmost point of the country. As
far as the eye could reach the Inlandice ran right up to the land and
almost up to the top all the way. The height of the nunataks above
the ice was on an average about 300—400 metres. From the elevation
on which I stood, I saw a nunatak about 20 miles away in SW by S
(Poulsen’s Nunatak), and in SSW I saw two small nunataks which I
estimated as being about 40 miles away (Olsen’s Nunatakker)”. When I
returned to the camp in the evening, the storm had abated a good deal,
and I looked forward confidently to having fine weather on the following
day, but “man proposes, God disposes’. In the course of the night
the wind freshened considerably, and not until 3 p.m. on the 29th was
there any chance of sledging south, which we then did. The weather
was good and we made about 10 miles southwards, with a gradient of
ice of some 250 metres and reached a bit further south than I had
been on the previous day. We camped here in the evening, and im-
mediately climbed the island where I had been on the day before to
have a look round. We had in fact at this time debated whether we
had not better go back, but before making up our minds, I wanted
my two companions to know how the land lay, particularly as my
own feeling was in favour of continueing south. I did not, however,
wish to insist on doing so, preferring to come to a definite decision after
having held a council of war with my comrades, when they had had
an opportunity of studying the surroundings. Moreover, I had
Capt. MIKKELSEN’s instructions to go by, and there he had written as
follows: —
“The ice being more impassable than we had anticipated on the
stretch we have travelled over, whilst seeming better both towards
north and west, I beg you to be cautious and not advance further,
than you can see your retreat clear”.
After having ascended the nunatak, Henius’ Nunatak, which had
an altitude of 400 metres above our camping site, we got a splendid
view of the interior of Dronning Louise’s Land. It proved to consist
of a number of nunataks and not of compact land (Fig. 80).
All the nunataks in the interior rose steeply out of the ice, and
many of them were considerably higher than the one we were on the
LUI. 11
162 WILHELM LAUB.
top of — thus one just east of us and one just south, of which I should
estimate the latter at 300 metres higher than where we stood, i. e. about
1720 metres above the level of the sea. Towards northeast we also saw
nunataks higher than our position. From the nunatak where we stood,
a very conspicuous glacier or branch from the main body extended
in а WNW and ESE direction, thus passing straight through Dron-
ning Louise’s Land from the west coast to the eastern side, but it
must be mentioned that the glacier was broken up by greater and
smaller nunataks. The outrunning of the glacier in Storstrømmen at
the east coast of Dronning Louise’s Land seemed to be just opposite
Brede Glacier.
On all the nunataks forming the west coast of Dronning Louise’s
Land, the Inlandice lay close up to the west side which sloped towards
it; so that it was easy to climb them from this side, whilst they were
very steep on the east side of the islands, where ascent was im-
possible. The whole of the east side of the island on which we were
standing was thus quite perpendicular.
The west coast of Dronning Louise’s Land fell away from the
place where we were in a S12E direction, but the southern end of the
land could not be definitely located. Moreover, we observed the Olsen’s
and Poulsen’s nunataks in a SSW and SW by S direction, whilst
also noticing that the Inlandice towards the south was continually rising.
As to the snowdrifts on the ice — along the west coast there was a
lot of snow on the ice — it showed that the main direction of the
wind was southerly.
After having descended we decided to return and commence the
homeward journey from here. Our reasons were:
“The main purpose of the expedition is Capt. MIKKELSEN’s journey
and safe return, which is dependent upon the following depots; at
the bottom of Dove Bay, at the entrance to the same, and at Haystack.
Up to the present the party has been pursued by bad luck, and has
made but little progress during the 19 days since we parted from Capt.
MIKKELSEN. We have still provisions for a fortnight, on somewhat
reduced rations, but not sufficient for us to reach south of Dronning
Louise’s Land, according to the experience we have gained on the stretch
already covered; as with the descent to the Inlandice in the Ardencaple
Inlet it is a distance of about 210 miles and with the descent to Dove
Bay also about 210 miles to the “Alabama”, according to which an
average day’s march of 15 miles was necessary. This distance we only
covered on a few occasions, and there is no prospect of our being able to
keep it up, particularly when considering the prevailing conditions:
bad weather, constant head wind, unknown territory and constantly
inclining ice. It is true that if the descent took place at Dove Bay,
we should have Capt. MIKKELSEN’s depots to fall back upon, but the
probability of bemg able to supplement the stores with others before
‘OGL #/, ‘Duo WIOYBIOU 94$ 03 “FTN ‚0004, Moge Woy pur з.эзтот Suyuuor JO 95809 ysvo 943 JO VUIVIOUNT "TB ‘BL
II] “INOW Wo "ATEN
Меор. om Gront. ШТ,
Fig. 82. A crevasse in the Inlandice showing the pressure of the ice. 1/; 1910.
Fig. 83. A crevasse in the Inlandice. Storstrømmen. ‘/; 1919.
Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition. 163
the thaw takes place, I regard as very remote, and thus the safety of
his return would become questionable.”
It must also be borne in mind that our party had something to do
on board the “Alabama” — viz to get her ready to sail home during
the latter part of the summer, and it must not be forgotten that the two
men left on board were not able-bodied seamen. — At this time our party
knew nothing of the fact that the “Alabama” was damaged, which, as
will be remembered, happened ten days after we left the ship on March
3rd. — The following decision was then arrived at: “We were to start for
the ship on April 30th, the route to be followed being that of the out-
ward journey, but not till the exact position had been located. The
date of our descent from the Inlandice will decide whether we are to
continue direct towards Alabama Havn or to take our way over Dan-
mark’s Havn in order to provision, it being about 125 miles from the
place of descent to “Alabama”, but only about 52 miles to Danmark’s
Havn, and we could always reckon on getting supplies at the latter
place”.
After this decision had been made, our first dog “Christian” was
shot to supply food for the others. On April 30th it was again bad weather
with a quantity of snow, so that we could not observe the sun, for which
reason we stayed another day in this place, having now a fairly good
idea of the situation and not risking very much by staying on. It was,
moreover, rather important to decide our position, and therefore we
did not get away on our return journey until May Ist at 1 p.m.
Our progress in a northerly direction was now rather rapid as it was
downhill, so that the sledge practically ran by itself, although both
OLSEN and POULSEN were sitting on it, while I was upon skis, but
toward the end it was difficult for me to keep up, so that at 5 р. m.
I took off the skis and put them on the sledge. We now drove some-
what nearer to the land and stopped at 8.30 р. т. after having covered
about 15 miles with a declivity of about 450 m. We had, therefore, made
our distance, but about 6 p.m. we had encountered half a gale with
snow at our backs, which at last prevented our seeing even three metres
ahead of us. In the bay between Cape Treklover on Prins Axel’s Nunatak
and Juel-Brockdorff’s Nunatak, the northernmost nunatak on the west
coast, we observed several fissures in the ice, obviously caused by the
pressure of the ice on the land, as the direction of the fissures was
seen to run parallel with it. But they were all narrow, at the utmost
about half a metre broad and easy to cross.
The storm which had increased in the course of the afternoon con-
tinued for three days with snow, so that it was impossible to see any-
thing whatever, and we had to lie quiet. We could just see one end
of the sledge when standing at the other. It would in fact have been
too risky to venture out in such weather, now that we had the bad ice
in front of us, and where it was necessary to select the best way.
11*
164 WILHELM LAUB.
In the afternoon of May 2nd at 6 p.m. we registered a temperature of
— 27°C., on the 3rd we did not record anything, but that it was ex-
tremely low is proved by the fact that one of our dogs was frozen to
death that day. It was “Bajads”, a small dog without ears and tail,
which we had grown very fond of.
Worthy of mention is that nearly all the storms, we had during
the sledge journey, were blowing when the barometer was high; and
the same thing was noticed in our winter quarters, where it was also
blowing with a high barometer.
On the morning of May 4th it was still blowing hard, but the snow-
fall had ceased so that the drifts were less, and we continued our journey,
fortunately with the wind at our backs; had it been a head wind our
progress would have been rendered impossible. It was certainly not a
pleasant experience, but necessity forced us to advance. Our course
now lay somewhat more to the north, as we crossed our outward
course whilst still on the high Inlandice, and drove down the midway
between Ymer’s Nunatak and the northern extremity of Dronning
Louise’s Land, where we found a long snow drift extending from the
wall of Suzanne Glacier, so that this was comparatively easy to descend.
But we did not get through without damage, as both runners of the
sledge broke in the forepart, so that it was necessary to turn the
sledge and drive stern foremost. It will be obvious that this mode of
progression was no easy matter, as the runners were constantly embedded
in the snow, caused by the lack of the usual curve. When we camped
in the evening my skis were put under the sledge as runners, but this
also was a matter of some difficulty, as the fittings of the old runners
had first to be screwed on to the skis, which afterwards were lashed
on to the sledge. But once more everything was all right, and we
were able to resume our journey on the morning of the 95.
We had, however, still another disaster on that day, due entirely to
my own want of foresight. I had put the Primus apparatus too close
to the canvas, and whilst I was taking the provisions out, the tent
caught fire, and a hole was burnt in it, about half a metre square.
I succeeded in making the damage good, but it cost me about an hour’s
extra work, after the others had turned in.
On the 6th we reached the depot arranged for Capt. MIKKELSEN
at 77°10’ №. Lat. off the east coast of Dronning Louise’s Land on Stor-
strommen, where we were obliged to take three days’ food for the
dogs, viz 12 pemmican cakes. We notified this and also particulars
of our journey to Capt. MIKKELSEN in a letter, which we left for
him at the depot. |
We spent four more days on the Inlandice (Fig. 81 and Fig. 82),
but although we were not strangers to the district, there were many
difficulties to be encountered, as the sledge had now to be driven with great
care over the very troublesome ice encountered here, it being full of
Mepp. om Gront. Ш.
Fig. 84. А crevasse in the Inlandice. Storstrømmen. 19). 1910.
Fig. 85. The sledge on the Jnlandice. 1%/; 1910.
Brede Glacier
Mepp. om Свомь. ШТ. i}
Fig. 86. The bottom of Dove Bay near to Brede Glacier, seen from the south-western end of Germania Land (later-on called »Cape Stop« by Capt. Keech). 1/5 1910.
=
Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition. 165
clefts and crevasses (Fig. 83 and 84). The sledge was now extremely
ricketty and could not very well stand the many crevasses and irregula-
rities. The uprights were bent like an S, three of them were broken,
and as a climax to our troubles PouLSEN became snow-blind, so that
he was in total darkness the last three days on the Inlandice. In the
morning when we started he was placed by the side of the sledge, and
he only had to hold on and keep up with it (Fig. 85). OLSEN and I,
who were in the traces, gave him timely warning whenever we were
coming to uneven ground, but it often happened, that we omitted to do
so, or thought that the ice was in such a condition that it was not
necessary. A moment after we were brought up standing by а shout
from POULSEN and a jerk on the sledge, and each time he had stumbled
over an irregularity in the ground. OLSEN also suffered from that
affliction — which is so painful and troublesome in the Polar regions,
— but fortunately not until the last day before we returned to “Ala-
Бата”, so that he was able to sit in the dark in our hut and rest
his eyes, thus getting over the trouble easily.
On May 10th at 2 p.m. we were again down on the sea-ice in the
fjord outside Brede Glacier. The appearance of the glacier was some-
what changed, as just round our place of descent and likewise where
we ascended, part of the glacier had fallen down, and for the space of the
last kilometre along the edge of the glacier several small currents had
formed, where we heard the rippling of water which at last fell out over
the glacier. It was a curious feeling now after forty-eight days’ march
up on the Inlandice to find one self again down on the fjord-ice. The
difference was clearly apparent in the very loose snow on the ice, and
in many places there was water on it, but otherwise it was a great relief
to be able to rest the eye on the black hilltops of Germania Land, as
a contrast to eternally seeing the dazzling white of the Inlandice.
At 9p.m. we pitched our tent at a point at the southern end of Ger-
mania Land (Fig. 86)". Here we decided to sledge to Danmark’s Havn,
as we could see that we should not be able to make “Alabama” with
the remaining provisions, so we laid our route northwards in between
the small islands in the bottom of Dove Bay (Fig. 87) and then to
the south of Red Island and the southern Orientering’s Island towards
Cape Helgoland. There is nothing special to report about this part of
the tour; we arrived on May 14th shortly after noon at Danmark’s Havn
after having completely run out of provisions. The cause of our being
delayed was the very soft and deep snow, so that we sank into it up
to our calves at each step, besides which we lost our way in the fog,
which lasted the whole day and night of the 13th, and we reached
Koldewey Island well south of Cape Helgoland, whereby the journey
was considerably prolonged.
т Later on by Capt. Косн, when he came there in the autumn 1912, called
Cape Stop.
166 WILHELM LAUB.
We remained two days at Danmark’s Havn to recover our strength
and to provision, and then journeyed south towards Shannon Island on
the afternoon of the 16th, with a week’s supplies and after having left a
letter for anyone who might come to the depot or for Capt. MIKKELSEN,
who was the most likely person to arrive there. Fortunately we had
got skis at Danmark’s Havn, which were of great assistance to us now
in the soft snow which extended over the whole of Dove Bay, from
Cape Helgoland right up to the north coast of Bessel Bay. On the same
stretch we encountered a number of fissures in the ice running from east to
west and which in some instances stretched from Koldewey Island right
away to the mainland, but the majority were narrow, up to about a metre
in width. Only two of the fissures were very broad, over four metres
at the place of crossing, and they caused us a lot of trouble to get over,
as we had to go nearly up to the mainland in order to pass.
At one of these fissures PouLsEn had the ill-luck to fall into the
water when attempting to cross over, a very unpleasant plight, but for-
tunately without any serious consequences.
On the morning of May 21st we reached the depot at Haystack.
From Danmark’s Havn we had sledged by night, partly on account of
the heat and also to avoid having the sun in our eyes during the journey
southwards. From Haystack we again encountered hard ice, but the
old trail from the autumn was still there right down to Shannon Is-
land and caused us a lot of trouble, the snow having become much
softer and looser, and on this stretch we had besides to carry two of
the dogs, “Саше” and “Tandbylden”, both of them being quite played
out, but being so near home, we wished to get them back to “Alabama”.
These two dogs, however, never got over the hardships of the sledge
trip.
Оп May 25rd at 1 p.m. we got back to the winter quarters and
here found the “Alabama’ in a damaged condition (Fig. 88), whilst our
two comrades Lieutenant JØRGENSEN and UNGER, the carpenter, had
fitted up a tent ashore.
Remarks concerning the Inlandice at Suzanne Glacier.
Respecting the curious appearance of the Inlandice at the northern
end of Dronning Louise’s Land, I shall describe it more closely, but with
the reservation that I do not make any deductions from it, not being
competent to do so, but I shall draw attention to Capt. Косн and Dr.
WEGENER’s description of the character of land and ice at Ymer’s
Nunatak, which according to my opinion coincides exactly with the
experiences we had. |
The description in question is to be found in the “Meddelelser om
Grønland XLVI, No. 1”: “Die glaciologischen Beobachtungen der Dan-
mark-Expedition von J. P. Koch und A. Wegener” p. 30 under the
section “Die Schlittenreise vom Annekso nach Ymers Nunatak”’.
Mepp.:om Свомг. LII.
Ес. 87. Sledging in Dove Bay for Danmark’s Hayn. 11/5 1910.
en =
Fig. 88. »Alabama« at our return. 79/5 1910.
Mepp. om GRØNL. ШТ.
Fig. 30. North-western point of the Shannon Island North Bay. ?/6 1910.
Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition. 167
The belt of stone and rubble which we came across about 7 miles
east of the high Inlandice, beginning at Suzanne Glacier, must have
been a continuation of the horseshoe-shaped moraine formation men-
tioned by WEGENER and Косн, because — judging from Fig. 46 in
the description — it runs off in a southeasterly direction towards Cape
Bellevue, and this coincides exactly with the direction of the belt we
came across, as it went towards Cape Bellevue, the chief direction being
nearly NNW—SSE (true). The ice, where the tent was erected sloped
towards the west, and had done so for about two miles before we
reached the tentplace; further for about a mile to the west of the
tent place the ice sloped, whereafter it retained the same height farther
towards the west, but was yet full of small hills and valleys, which
straight up to Suzanne Glacier assumed the character of the crevasses
previously mentioned.
As regards the situation of the two lakes, I must refer to the
sketch (see Fig. 71). The route followed by the sledge is shown by a
dotted line representing the way down over the lakes. At the point a
the ice became very uneven and full of small crevices (see Fig. 72)
with direction north and south. The sides of the crevices were quite
smooth and polished, seeming to suggest that they were old river-beds
from the last thaw and perhaps the result of several thaws, the lakes
thus being the natural receptacle for the water flowing in this vicinity.
The height of the Inlandice itself above the lake A at the point b
was about 10 to 12 metres, sloping at an angle of 45°. On the east side
of the lake the land rose straight up to such an altitude, that it went
right over to the Inlandice at the point c.
The south side of the lake was bounded by the arm of the island
extending to the west, which at this spot was quite low, and on this arm
we found a few bits of grass and moss. The tongue or arm of land
stretched to about 20 metres from the wall of the glacier, which bor-
dered the west side of the lake. The glacier wall rose vertically to an
altitude of about 30 metres above. the level of Lake A.
On the glacier wall itself the land projected visibly at several points
(see Fig.73), a fact which strongly suggests that Dronning Louise’s Land
is connected with Ymer’s nunatak by a range of hills hidden at some
points by ice, and this would also appear to explain the existence of
the glacier wall. It is true that the land did not project through the
ice on the whole stretch between Dronning Louise’s Land and Ymer’s
Nunatak, which was clearly shown on our return journey, as the route
went just between the said nunataks (Dronning Louise’s Land and Ymer’s
Nunatak); but on the other hand no borings were made in the ice which
might have demonstrated the presence of the land. Another reason
from which I draw this conclusion is that the appearance of the surface
of the ice, especially just between Dronning Louise’s Land and Ymer’s
Nunatak and to the west of this place, was like that of the ice which
168 WILHELM LAUB.
joined the west coast of Dronning Louise’s Land — a very slightly ascen-
ding, almost even surface, followed by the sharp declivity on the eastern
side of the numerous nunataks. On the west coast of Dronning Louise’s
Land the ground certainly projected at the top, and the height here
on the west coast was greater than towards the east coast of the land
at Storstrømmen.
From Lake A ran a narrow passage — which was now partly filled
with snow and excellent for sledging purposes — along by the glacier
wall, thus being bordered by it on the western side, whilst the east side
was formed by the isthmus of the island between the two lakes, rising
to a height of about 50 metres, so that Lake B, where we came
down through the passage, lay about 50 metres lower than Lake A.
At the same time the upper edge of the glacier sloped in a southerly
direction down to Dronning Louise’s Land, in such a way that the
height of the glacier right in at Dronning Louise’s Land was about
50 metres, of which about 25 to 30 metres was a perfectly steep wall.
I have previously mentioned the appearance of the lake, and its posi-
tion is clearly shown on the sketch.
With reference to the prolific fauna stated by the Danmark-Ex-
pedition as existing at Dronning Louise’s Land, I can only say that our
party up to now throughout the journey had not observed a single trace
of animal life, neither lemmings, snowhares, ptarmigans or snowsbun-
tings, but the reason is perhaps to be found in the fact, that we were
at Dronning Louise’s Land at an earlier period of the year than when
the party from the Danmark-Expedition were there.
The meteorological conditions have been treated elsewhere, and I
shall not touch on them more closely, but simply emphasize the fact
which we observed at Dronning Louise’s Land, viz that the wind blew
round the country in a right hand direction and always with great
velocity, irrespective of the fact whether it succeeded snow or fine
weather, it thus being nearly always windy on the stretch of country
we covered. \
It was partly blowing gales on about 75 % of the 48 days we spent
on the Inlandice.
Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition. 169
Extract from Lieutenant Jorgensen’s
diary, chiefly with respect to the wreck of the
“Alabama”.
The period covered is from the 3rd of March to the 22nd of May.
The two men on board — Lieut. JORGENSEN and UNGER — spent the
first few days mainly in clearing up after the departure of the sledging
parties. As early as March 8th they noticed that the “Alabama” was
making water in the space beneath the forecastle, there being about
35 cm of water above the keelson, but they baled it out the same
day. In the hold itself no water was observed.
Again on the 12th they noticed that the water had risen considerably.
In the hold it had increased 15 cm in the course of the last forty-
eight hours, and now covered the coals. In the space beneath the fore-
castle it had risen to about 40cm above the keelson. Aft in the engine
room no water was to be observed.
UNGER went to work at once to bale out — the pumps could not
be used — but he only succeeded in just keeping the water at the
same level.
Next day the water had increased considerably. In the hold it
was 41 ст higher than on the 12th, and in the space beneath the fore-
castle it was only 5 cm under the floor. JORGENSEN then came to
the conclusion that baling was of no avail, as the water rose quicker
than baling was possible, so UNGER then went to work to remove as
much provisions and other things as possible on to the deck, where they
remained safe for the time being. His efforts merit commendation,
all the more as his work was done in a snowstorm with a force of 7
(Beaufort’s scale).
On the 14th the water rose further, so that the two men were com-
pelled to move aft into the cabin, where the water had also begun to
rise, but not as yet above the floor. On the subsequent days until the
17th the water rose still higher, so that on the date in question it was
6 cm under some cross beams in the hold, which were placed about
60 cm funder the deck.
In the engine room the water was up to the floor, but had not yet
reached the cabin floor. On the same day it was noticed that the ship
had a bulge amidships and that an iron side girder was bent, whilst the
stern had risen about 3/, metre above the ice.
On the 18th UNGER again tried baling, but in vain, the water coming
in as quickly, as he got it out. Next day it rose very much in the engine
room, about 30cm, and JØRGENSEN and UNGER came to the conclusion
that they would very speedily have to make tracks for land, as the
water was rising day by day in the engine room, thus approaching
the floor of the cabin. In the hold the water reached up to the under
side of the aforesaid beams. UNGER set to work to put up a canvas
170 WILHELM LAUB.
house on shore, consisting of a wooden frame, for which he used loose
beams brought with us from Copenhagen, and covered it with the sails.
The house was spacious enough to accommodate the whole seven of us.
The work was, however, greatly delayed by bad weather (snowstorms) so
that JØRGENSEN and UNGER could not move ashore until the 26th of
March, but at this time there was much water in the cabin, about
20 cm above the floor. The last three days they had occupied the
cabin, the water was over the floor. In April the two men endeavoured
to pump the ship, as they had managed to get one of the pumps
free and thawed out, but again the result was nil, as the water rose
constantly, and when my sledging party returned, the ship was lying
with a list to starboard and with the deck aft from almost up to the
edge of the main hold under water.
Respecting the actual wreck, particulars have been given elsewhere,
so I shall not allude to it, except to express my admiration and re-
cognition of the splendid services rendered by my two comrades on
board under the trying circumstances, and this the more when the fact
is borne in mind that Lieutenant JØRGENSEN was ill, but this he kept
in the background and worked on deck himself. It should be mentioned
that when the sledging party left the ship on March 3rd, he was still
in bed on account of his frostbitten feet.
Until my party returned, our two comrades were busy every day
saving as much provisions and other things as possible from the wreck,
whilst in nowise neglecting to take the necessary meteorological obser-
vations.
The period from 28rd of May until arrival
at Aalesund.
On my return to “Alabama”, May 23rd 1910, from the great sledging
tour we found, as previously mentioned, that the “Alabama” was
wrecked, which disaster had happened on the 13th of March, ten days
after the departure on the great sledging tour.
Lieutenant JØRGENSEN and UNGER had both moved ashore into a
tent which they had built on the shore out of the sails. The day of our
arrival we simply ate, drank coffee and rested, and not until the
following day did I make a start with my survey of the “Alabama”,
the result being that we decided to save as much of the timber as
possible, so that we could build a house ashore. In order to fully ex-
plain the condition in which the ship was, when I returned to the
winter quarters, I subjoin a report of the reasons which induced us to
condemn the “Alabama”.
Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition. 171
“Alabama’’s winter quarters,
Shannon Island, May 27, 1910.
Report concerning the condemnation of the expedition ship
“Alabama”.
The following explains our reasons for condemning the “Alabama”.
As the ship on the 17th of Aug. 1909 struck the ice, she received
some serious bumps, and after the last of them her mast got a severe
shock; she was again jammed in the ice between two heavy floes the
foot of one of which was under the keel. She lay between these floes
in a heavy swell until the morning of thel8th, when the ice slackened,
and the only damage noticeable from on board was that the rudder
stem was strained, but we were able to repair it. The pumps were
sounded all through the night, and the water did not appear to rise
more than usual.
On our further passage through the ice, until we reached land,
the ship was, moreover, exposed to some pressure, the total effect
being that she was completely wedged in and lifted upon the ice. Through
the pressure the stern shaft and the rudder were damaged, the latter
for the second time, but although when we got into our winter quarters,
no damage could be observed to the ship herself, it is the unanimous
opinion, that she had suffered a lot by the heavy passage through the
ice. Shortly after our arrival at Shannon Island, she began to leak
more than usual, but this was reduced after a couple of days. This took
place, however, before we were ice-bound.
It should here be stated that the ship in the course of the winter
had come close up to the tidal cracks, as the latter had gradually moved
further out, and may have caused some damage to the ship.
During the winter of 1909—1910 violent shocks were observed, but
up to the end of January the water did not show any signs of rising,
but was maintained steadily at about 5 cm under the upper edge of
the keel. But on Jan. 28th 1910 it was observed that the deck under
the forecastle had sunk, and when we proceeded to strengthen it, we
discovered that there was a lot of water in the hold under the fore-
castle and also under the pump well. We immediately got the buckets
to work and baled out the water from the whole ship. On Feb. 12th
1910 water again appeared in the hold, and we got rid of it in a similar
manner.
On the departure of the two sledging parties on 3rd of March 1910
there was again a lot of water in the ship, but it was baled out four days
afterwards and again on the 12th of March. But after this last baling
out, the water in the ship again rose rapidly and forced Lieutenant Jør-
GENSEN and UNGER, to abandon the ship and move ashore, which they
did on March 26th. Before they left, however, they had moved aft
into the cabin on the 14th of March, the water at this time not having
reached the cabin. Until the return of the second sledge party, attempts
172 WILHELM LAUB.
were constantly made to bale out the vessel, but with two men, one
of whom was just recovering from an illness, no result was arrived
at, and the ship continued to sink day by day.
On the 25th of May another attempt was made to bale her out
with both pumps working; four hands took turns at pumping and made
the water in the ship sink 65 cm. At this time the pumps had been
worked for three hours. Two men now stayed at the pumps, whilst
the other two brought seven barrels of flour and some coal — which
had been under water and were still partially so — out of the hold.
But it soon appeared that two men could not keep the water in check.
After an hour and a half it had increased 8 cm and rose still further,
as soon as the pumping stopped, 25cm in the course of half an hour.
An hour later we again took soundings, and the water level was then
the same as when the pumping began. It was, therefore, obvious that.
two men constantly working the pumps were unable to keep the vessel dry.
We cannot decide where the leak is, but what we can assert is.
the following:
1) The mast had sunk 13 cm and therefore the keel or keelson must
have been broken, presumably during her passage through the ice.
2) On her port side about one metre and a quarter abaft the mast
she has got a dent, so that both her side and the inside iron stringer
are strained, and the deck planks have parted and gape about 2 cm
on a length of about 2 metres.
) Through her heeling over to starboard the bow has become so strained
that the side planks from two planks under the upper side of the
ice Sheathing and up to the upper side of the railing has sprung
from the bow and gapes about 2 cm.
Moreover she has probably sprung a leak at the stern tube, the result
of the damage caused to the rudder and propeller shaft during her
passage through the ice.
Oo
—
>
The ship is still carried by the ice, but she is down so much by
the stern and has heeled over so that the deck by the starboard railing
is under water. The heavy weight aft (the motor) is probably the cause
of the ice being pressed down and resting on the bottom. Astern at
low water when she lay in her winter quarters there was about 3'/2m
of water. As soon as the ice breaks up, it is to be presumed that the
vessel will sink entirely. As the locality of the winter quarters is not
favourable for hauling her ashore, and as the expedition does not pos-
sess suitable tackle for raising and subsequently repairing her, we regard
it as more practicable, as long as she is kept up by the ice, to take suf-
ficient timber from her to build a house ashore in case of our being forced
to pass another winter here,
Captain MIKKELSEN not being present, I have consulted the other
Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition. 173
members of the expedition respecting the measures to be adopted as
regards the ship, and they have drawn up the following.
(Signed) WILHELM LAUB.
The undersigned hereby certify that they are cognisant of the con-
tents of the foregoing and that we are not able at present nor shall we
be able with the appliances at our disposal to put the “Alabama” into
a seaworthy condition, and we, therefore, regard it as most feasible, in
view of possibly passing another winter here, to take so much timber
from the ship as will enable us to build a house ashore.
(Sig.) C. H. JORGENSEN. Hans P. OLSEN.
GEORG POULSEN. C. UNGER.
We immediately started to save the timber from the ship, whilst
also making preparations for another sledging trip.
Before Captain MIKKELSEN and I started off simultaneously from
the “Alabama” on March 3rd, I had been requested by him оп my return
to the winter quarters to draw up a report for the Committee and place
a copy of same in the depot at Bass Rock and in the depot at the SE
point of Shannon, Cape Philip Broke. Also I was to try to reach the
Tyrolfjord, especially to investigate this and Clavering Island, lying in
the fjord. Lieutenant JØRGENSEN was to undertake this tour, if his
feet were so much better that he could stand the hardships of a sledge
trip. But although, when I got back, he was out of bed and could
walk about, he was still not well enough to stand the trip, and I
made up my mind to undertake it myself, choosing as companion
UNGER, who had not been away for some time. Moreover, we were
enjoined to lay down a depot for Capt. MIKKELSEN on the mainland
at Hochstetter Forland in a spot lying true west of the NW point of
Shannon Island, this depot being intended to supplement those laid
down in the spring along the east coast to the north.
On account of the disaster which had happened to the “Alabama”
I had, moreover, resolved to place in the aforesaid depots, besides
the official reports, open letters for any travellers who might per-
chance come, so that they might become aware of the condition of the
“Alabama”, and we might thereby get a chance of being taken home.
I was loth to return without having any news from Capt. MIKKEL-
SEN, but as matters stood and according to the instructions of the
Committee § 4, together with the orders given to me by Capt. MIKKELSEN
to return after August 1st, if he had not by that time returned to the
winter quarters, I considered it the right thing for us five members of
the expedition to get back, should opportunity offer. In Capt. MIKKEL-
SEN’s orders to me he states that if the ice conditions are good, I am to
wait until August 15th, but not without having consulted the other mem-
bers of the expedition. Also I was guided by the thought that Capt.
174 WILHELM LAUB.
MIKKELSEN and IVERSEN were not very likely to return along the east
coast of Greenland, but after leaving Danmark’s Fjord would continue in
a westerly direction to Independence Bay and Peary Channel to Cape
York on the west coast of Greenland; my two companions from the
sledge trip OLSEN and POULSEN shared my opinion, especially after the
conversation we had on the morning of April 10th 1910, when we separ-
ated on the Inlandice, in the course of which conversation Capt.
MIKKELSEN spoke very definitely about going the whole way round,
and he asked me expressly whether I thought I could manage with the
four men left and myself to get the “Alabama” out of the ice in the
autumn and then home.
Also as far as Lieutenant JORGENSEN’s illness was concerned, I
considered it prudent to try to get the expedition home that year, all
the more as, in the event of having to winter again, we should suffer
much from want of good clothes.
With regard to provisions we could have managed to winter,
mainly with the help of the American depots on Shannon Island and
Bass Rock.
But I thought that Capt. MIKKELSEN and IVERSEN would have been
helped most efficiently by our returning home, should occasion offer,
instead of our remaining in the winter quarters and awaiting their
arrival there, as in that case we should be short of provisions, when
we had seven mouths to fill instead of two. I could not count upon
shooting any game, as this from our arrival up to the present had proved
to be exceptionally scarce.
Therefore the days, until I went on my last sledging tour, were spent
by me in getting the report ready, whilst the others saved as much
tackle etc. and also timber and fuel from the “Alabama”, which would
be of great advantage to us, should we winter again in that place, as
we should otherwise run out of fuel.
On June Ist in the evening we started with sufficient provisions.
and petrol to enable us to reach Bass Rock, not taking the direct
course, but north of Shannon Island (Fig. 89 and 90) and across to the
main land at Hochshetter Forland, in order to lay down Capt. Mix-
KELSEN’s depot reckoned to be sufficient for two men and three dogs
for six days.
Provisions for the men.
Pemmieanıı Urs sr EN ее 3.6 kilo
Biber. ois ees ee eee Deby =
те ов 3:06 =
Chocolate: int В ПП rie de
Pea jsausage a: sen 0.75 -
Vegetables... igh ge ава 0.37 -
DUSIT ee 0.30 -
Teaser VA eas BENE RENTERNE 0.05 -
Mepp. om Свемь. ШТ.
Fig. 91. A depot laid down for Capt. Mikkelsen
on Hochstetter Foreland. %/6 1910.
Fig. 92, The tent and the house in Alabama Havn. */7 1910.
Mepp. om GRØNL. LII.
Pendulum Island. Sabine Island.
| у .
Fig. 93. »7de Juni« arrives at the Shannon Depot.
Pendulum and Sabine Islands are seen behind. 7/7 1910.
Fig. 94. Passing a river on our way to »7de Juni« 2/ 1910.
Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition. 175
Petrol in a keg 3.53 kilo, dog food 15 kilo and finally a kayak with
two oars. The latter was brought along so as to ensure Capt. MIKKELSEN’S
crossing to Shannon Island from the mainland, as at the time they would
be returning, there was every chance of the ice having broken up.
We took our last three dogs with us on this tour, but they were
not of much use in pulling, as they had not yet fully recovered from
the hardships of the spring tour.
On June 3rd in the morning we reached the spot on the mainland
where the depot was to be laid down, and after all this had been
arranged, we proceeded south (Fig. 68 and 91).
But this did not take place until the evening of the 4th, we having
been doomed to enforced idleness on account of a snowstorm. Besides
our stay here was also prolonged on account of the investigation we
made of the country, chiefly with reference to hunting possibilities, but
we found no trace of animal life.
Our course was shaped straight for the SW point of Shannon Island
and thence direct to Bass Rock. The going was generally good, most
of the ice in the strait between the mainland and Shannon Island —
being free of snow, but a strong NE wind with snow made it difficult
for us to see the way in front of us, so that we had to make many a
detour in order to cross the fissures, which became more and more
frequent the nearer we got to Freeden Bay.
Not until June 7th in the evening did we reach the depot at Bass
Rock; a snowstorm in Freeden Bay had delayed us about thirty hours,
but on account of the numerous fissures and the open water quite near
our route it was impossible to get through during the storm.
At the depot we found the mail from the Danmark-Expedition,
placed there in the autumn of 1906, together with an open letter to the
finder of same, which mail our expedition brought home.
Moreover, the depot turned out to be well supplied with articles
of food, so that in this respect we were all right for the coming winter;
the only thing, of which there was a scarcity, was fuel, which we had
anticipated to find there. All the food was counted and booked.
Furthermore we came across a communication from Mr. OLIVER У.
Hassie, who in 1905 on board the Norwegian vessel “Magdalene”’ visited
the depot to see if everything was in order, which he states to be the
case in his report, with the exception of the petrol which had leaked
out of the barrels. Mr. Hassıc represented “the late Mr. WM ZIEGLER,
the U.S. Weather Bureau and the National Geographical Society of
Washington”.
As soon as the counting was done, I went up to the top of Bass Rock,
which is about 150 metres high, in order to investigate the ice conditions,
which from the foot of the rock did not look very favourable to our
further progress towards south, as the open water reached within 200
metres off Bass Rock, and besides the ice did not appear to extend
further south (see Fig. 68).
176 WILHELM LAUB.
Furthermore, it had appeared in the course of the winter, as I have
stated elsewhere, that around Bass Rock and both north and south of
it, there was much open water, and this was stated also in the ice reports
of several years, so that we felt quite convinced that any advance over
the sea ice would be difficult so late in the year.
On the 9th of June | wrote in my diary, after having been up to
the top of Bass Rock:
“The ice has broken up right up to the SE point of Pendulum Island,
and it looks as if it had also done so farther towards the west. If this isa
fact, the plan of endeavouring to make Clavering Island must be relin-
quished, as I do not consider it feasible to go to the main land and try
to reach Clavering Island over land, as this would take too much time.
The house at the winter quarters must also be built, and this before
the 15th of July, if there should be a chance of getting home by ship
this year, so that MIKKELSEN and IvERSEN may have something to live
in, should they come this way; and this I regard as the principal
thing, while Clavermg Island and with it the survey of the Tyroler-
fjord must come second. Thus if there is ice south of Pendulum Island
to justify me in thinking that I can be back at the ship by Ist of July,
I will try to go there, but it will be only with a week’s supply of
petrol and without a kayak, as I have presumed, that there was both
petrol and kayaks here, just as at the Shannon depot. It had all the
time been my intention from the time I started from the “Alabama”
to take a kayak with me to the mouth of the Tyrolerfjord in order to
be able to undertake the return journey, if the ice had broken up,
when I came out of the Tyrolerfjord”.
There was a boat at Bass Rock, or rather a skeleton of a boat, as
the canvas which should have served as a sheathing for the boat had
rotted completely, so that she was absolutely useless.
During the night between 10th and 11 of June we proceeded on
our journey south and made the southern end of Pendulum Island, where
our progress was stopped by perfectly open water, which apparently
extended right away to the Tyrolerfjord, only broken by a very small
belt of drift ice. We observed this both from the ice down below and
when we were up on the hills of Pendulum Island. Here we also found
something of the game we had so long looked for, as we came across a
lot of hares.
As regards the ice conditions at Pendulum and Sabine Islands my
view was absolutely confirmed by the crew of the “7de Juni”, from
which two men, a week after I had left Bass Rock, rowed round to the
depot from their winter quarters at Germania Havn.
Another “tip” which I got from the captain of the “7de Juni” was
that it was impossible to sail round Clavering Island, it being joined
to the main land by a very low isthmus on its northeastern side, but
one can go over the isthmus in a yawl at high tide.
|}
Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition. 177
We returned to Bass Rock the same night, and continued our journey
northwards to the Shannon depot on the following night. At both of
these places we left reports for our committee in Copenhagen, besides
the subjoined open letter, written in English. It ran thus:
п} 1910 Bass Rock.
To whom it may concern:
Any person calling at this depot is requested to bring this letter
home with him and forward it to its destination. He is also requested
to get into touch with the members of the “Alabama Expedition” who,
having lost their ship, are at their winter quarters and desire, if pos-
sible, to return home with you. The “Alabama” went down in March
this year.
(sign.) W. LauB.
Second in command.
On Wednesday the 15th of June at 8 p.m. we were back at Ala-
bama Havn without having encountered anything worth mentioning.
But we noticed a considerable difference in the ice during the fort-
night we had been away, it now being very heavy going for the sledge,
whilst in many places it was full of fissures and open lakes, so that it
took us double the time to cross Frozen Bay.
The three men remaining by the ship had spent their time in getting
as much material as possible ashore from the “Alabama”, so that on
June 21st UNGER was able to start building the house, in which there
was provided proper sleeping accommodation for all the seven men. At
the same time two of our party were always on the prowl after game, and
although the result cannot be regarded as brilliant we now and then got
some hares and lapwings, but we saw no traces of musk ox. They
were not seen by us until the 26th of July, when I myself came across
а herd of seven animals consisting of six fully grown and one calf.
This was during my stay at the Shannon depot, when I went out for
the purpose of getting hold of a couple of hares, and had therefore
taken only a few ordinary cartridges with me, which were of no use
whatever against big game, so that I had to return with my errand
unaccomplished.
We saw nothing whatever of these animals during the last days
we spent on Shannon Island, but there must have been a number of
them about, as Capt. MIKKELSEN and IVERSEN during the two years
they spent on the island shot a lot of them.
The time when there was a possibility of a vessel coming in to one
of the depots was now approaching, and I considered it advisable to
have two men stationed at the Shannon depot. Should a ship touch at
Bass Rock I felt sure that she, after having found the open letter depo-
sited there, would go north to the Shannon depot to investigate
whether there were any further particulars there. Lieutenant JORGEN-
Lo. 12
178 WILHELM LAUB.
SEN who had been up and walked about on his sore feet the last fort-
night wanted to go fora trip, and thought he could stand the journey
to the depot where they were to stay, and where he could have his
feet properly attended to.
On the 27th of June he and Poutsen started for the depot with
instructions to remain until they were relieved, which would take place
as soon as the house was finished.
The three of us who stayed behind worked very hard at building
the house, which was ultimately finished on July 11th, so that we
were able to move into it. It was high time, as we had now foggy, rainy
weather which very quickly penetrated the tent we had hitherto lived
in (Fig. 92).
Two days later OLSEN and UNGER received instructions to proceed
to the Shannon depot to relieve JØRGENSEN and PouLsen. They also
got off all right early in the morning of July 13th, and they hoped to
get through in about ten hours.
But they found difficult conditions when trying to cross Frozen
Bay and returned to our quarters in the evening of the same day. As
OLSEN had strained a muscle, UNGER and I went southwards the next
day to the depot, which we reached after fourteen hours’ continuous
marching. The going had been rendered unusually difficult through
the thaw, so that over the ice we had constantly to wade up to our
knees in water, and over land we waded over three miles of swamp.
JORGENSEN and PouLsEN had no experiences to relate from the
depot, nor had they seen any ship. So they returned the next day,
but we retained our three dogs and the sledge, estimating that in
case a ship should come, we should be better able to return quickly
to the winter quarters with the sledge than without it.
The ice, which during JORGENSEN’s and POULSEN’s stay at the depot
had lain firmly out from the land at about half a mile off, and over
the whole of Freeden Bay as well as over the strait between Shannon
and Pendulum Islands (see Fig. 68) broke up completely on July 18th,
so that the open water came right up to the land, and at the same
time far into the bay between Shannon and Pendulum Islands.
We passed our time down here by keeping a look-out and going
after game, on land as well as on sea, and we used for the latter sport
a canvas kayak lying at the depot, similar to the one which was placed
on the mainland for the use of Capt. MIKKELSEN and IVERSEN. It turned
out to be an excellent craft, and had good carrying powers.
On July 27th at 11 a.m. the galeas “7de Juni” of Aalesund, Capt.
М. LANDMARK, sailed up to the depot, after having found the open
letter and report we had left at Bass Rock (Fig. 93). The “7de Juni”
had wintered at Germania Havn on Sabine Island, in order to hunt
bears and foxes, but they had met with no success. Captain LAND-
erh
Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition. 179
MARK had come to Bass Rock in search of provisions, a week after UNGER
and I had been there in June. At this time the crew of the “7de Juni”,
originally consisting of six hands, had been considerably reduced, one
man having died in March, whilst two others were down with scurvy.
He therefore resolved, as soon as the ice broke up, to try to get to
Shannon Island with his ship, so as to get into touch with us, to
whom he would thus bring assistance, whilst in return getting a crew
for his ship.
Before the “7de Juni” went north to Shannon Island from Sabine
Island, she had on the 21st of July been down to Clavering Island, and
there she had fallen in with the Norwegian three-masted steam schooner
“Laura” of Tromso, which ship heard of our plight from Capt.
LANDMARK, and her captain then had decided to try to reach us, sailing
at once northward to Shannon Island, which, however, they did not
reach.
The “7de Juni” remained some days longer at Clavering Island to load
skins and provisions, and afterwards they went north, being helped by the
lend water, so that they made Bass Rock early in the morning of 27th of
July. On their arrival they observed that no one had called at the
depot since their previous visit on June 20th, so they sailed further on
in a northerly direction to the Shannon depot, which they made after
a four hours’ sail in open water.
An arrangement was subsequently made with Capt. LANDMARK to
take us home, according to which we were to make ourselves useful
on board; only Lieutenant JØRGENSEN was to be exempted from duty,
as he had not yet quite recovered. I clearly pointed out to Capt.
LanpMARK that I could not promise him any remuneration whatever
or any compensation, not knowing what attitude the committee would
adopt in the matter. He generously replied that, as far as he was
concerned, no reward would be expected, he being only too happy
to assist, whilst he also obtained some hands to work the ship.
Moreover he undertook to remain a week at the Shannon depot,
— unless the ice conditions compelled him to go away earlier. This ar-
rangement was made, because I was not in a position to inform him
definitely, as to how long it would take for us to send a message to our
winter quarters. To get through with a ship along the east coast of Shannon
Island to our winter quarters was impossible at that period on account
of the thick, heavy ice. Capt. LANDMARK and I had thought of trying
to do so, as we could thus take a much larger quantity of our
possessions home, but we had to abandon the idea again, after we had
reconnoitred along the east coast to find out the chances of successful
navigation.
On the same evening — July 27th — UNGER and I then sledged away
to our winter quarters, in order to bring the news to our three com-
12*
180 WILHELM LAUB.
rades there. In spite of the sledge being empty, it took us twenty-five
hours to make the journey, including a six hours’ rest, but still the
sledge was of material assistance to us, as without it we could never
have crossed the numberless fissures, which were the result of the pro-
gressing thaw; it was also of great use to us in the deep, soft snow.
In addition our progress was greatly hampered by fog; thus at Frozen
Bay we went about four miles out of our way to our destination, which
was ultimately reached on the evening of the 28th.
Whilst UNGER and I were away at the depot, JØRGENSEN, OLSEN
and PouLsEN had got the house quite shipshape with a rubble banking
surrounding it, so that it should not be capsized by the wind, and to
make it tight and snug they had lined the four walls outside with roofing
felt. All provisions, clothing and goods were afterwards stowed away
in the two houses, and there we left a list of the things and two reports
about the work of the expedition addressed to Capt. MIKKELSEN or
the committee, should the former not return. If strangers called at our
former quarters, they would be able to bring the reports home with
them.
As luck would have it, however, these reports were never found by
Capt. MIKKELSEN, so that until he called at the Shannon depot in 1911
he was ignorant of our fate. The reason was that our skill as tilers was
not very great, and so the zine plates which we had laid over the
roof in order to make it water-tight, had been carried away by a storm
before Capt. MrkKELSEN’s arrival, so that the house was full of snow,
and when our two friends cleared it away, they most likely shovelled
away the reports at the same time.
As I have said before, Capt. MIKKELSEN had enjomed upon me
under no circumstances to leave before Aug. Ist and preferably not before
the fifteenth, this latter, however, only after consultation with all the
members of the expedition.
Moreover, if we actually left, to try to take the “Alabama” north
to one of the depots, on the off-chance of there being any news for us
from MIKKELSEN.
Circumstances, however, had materially changed, since | had received
my written instructions in February 1910. I was loth to get away
prior to the appointed time and now dragged the time of our departure .
out by all possible expedients which suggested themselves to my fertile
imagination, but we finally departed twelve hours before the time ar-
ranged, getting away at 12 noon оп 815 July.
At the same time I left a letter for Capt. MIKKELSEN, requesting
him, in case he arrived within the next few days, to go to the Shannon
depot with all possible speed.
The “Alabama” had set considerably during my absence from
the harbour, but the ice, which had not yet melted under her stern,
Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition. 181
still bore her up, so that she was just afloat with her bow above the
surface.
The going was very bad, so it took us about thirty-six hours to
reach the Shannon depot and this despite the fact that we had scarcely
any “traps” with us. Only the clothes which we should want aboard
the “7de Juni” were taken, also the diaries, our journal with particulars
of our experiences during the winter, photographic plates and the ship’s
papers. Everything else, instruments, photographic apparatus, chrono-
meter etc. were left behind in the house.
We had a sledge with us, but we had to leave it behind at the
bottom of Freeden Bay, as it was impossible for us in the fog to get
it on to the ice, on account of the many tidal cracks, and we were
thus obliged to walk about ten miles overland down to the depot,
where we arrived in the evening of August Ist, and found the “7de
Juni” still at the edge of the ice.
The next day, when the weather had cleared, four of us (JORGEN-
SEN was in bed, his feet having caused him much discomfort on the
trip, so that he had to he up) fetched the sledge from the bottom of
Freeden Bay, but it still continued to be very difficult for us to get
out on the sea ice, and not until we had been into the water all of
us, did we succeed in getting it over, as some of the cracks were so
wide that we had to jump in order to get over and then throw the
contents and the dogs over the cracks, finally letting the sledge float
across by itself (Fig. 94).
Of course our remaining dogs suffered a lot on this tour to fetch
the sledge, so we were obliged to kill two of them before we got back
to the “7de Juni”, as on account of their exhaustion and drenched con-
dition they were unable to drag themselves along, and my experience
tends to show that the worst thing that can happen to a Greenland
dog is to expose it to water, whereas cold and snow do not affect it at all.
In the evening of the same day — 2nd of August — at 10 p.m.
we left the depot on board the “7de Juni”, going north along the coast,
after having helped ourselves to ten days’ provisions for five men from
the depot.
Capt. LANDMARK had stated his willingness, now that the number
of his crew had increased, to endeavour to make our winter quarters
in order to see if anything new had occurred, and then, if the land
water extended further, to proceed so far north as to render it possible
to investigate the depots along the coast.
At five in the morning of the 3rd of August we passed Cape Pansch,
the southern extremity of Frozen Bay, and worked our way until noon
through ice which became more and more impassable, until we were
compelled to stop about six miles to the eastward of “Alabama”s
winter quarters on account of the ice being quite impenetrable. Prior
182 WILHELM LAUB.
to this I had consulted Capt. LANDMARK at about nine in the morning,
when the ice began to look nasty, as to whether we were justified in
proceeding further north, especially out of regard to the two sick
men he had on board, but he, an experienced arctic sailor, thought
there was no risk connected with it.
Until we were stopped by the ice we had kept the motor running,
there being a fresh northerly breeze, but as we were now going south
Capt. LANDMARK stopped it, and we ran along under canvas only.
The ice became closer, and after only half on hour’s sail we were
shut in by the ice which closed a channel leading southward under
our very noses. |
Thus closed in we drifted slowly towards the south along the
east coast of Shannon Island, and we did not escape the ice until the
night between the 6th and 7th of August, off the depot at Саре Philip
Broke, which we reached at 7.15 p.m. on Aug. 7th.
During our stay in the ice we had suffered some damage through
ice pressures, whereby the blades of the propeller were bent and the
rudder split, but the damage to both was speedily repaired, the latter
especially with UNGER’s assistance.
Arrived at the depot I went ashore to see if anyone had been there
during our absence which, however, did not appear to be the case, and
then, after having shipped some provisions and inspected the motor,
we left Shannon Island finally at 10.30 p.m. on August 7th.
In order to prevent any misunderstanding if any ships should come
from Bass Rock, where Capt. LANDMARK had left my open letter with
the endorsement on it that he would try to make the Shannon depot,
the open letter left at this depot was destroyed, and the following
communication deposited in its place, as the possibility of the “Laura”
arriving was still present to my mind.
Shannon Island 7 Aug. 1910.
To possible callers at the depot:
Any caller here is requested to bring home the communication
deposited here and forward it to the addressee.
Should the party in question have come from Bass Rock depot, he
will have learnt that Capt. LANDMARK of the galeas “7de Juni” of
Aalesund has left there to pick up the members of the Alabama expe-
dition, who went on board on the 2nd of August. In the interval
between 2nd and 7th of August the galeas has been sailing north-
wards, in order to try to make “Alabama Harbour”, but was stopped
by solid ice, and became ice-bound. At “Alabama Harbour”, the
position of which is marked upon the map on the wall and where a
flagstaff has been put up and a house built, will be found provisions
for seven men for a year besides a lot of fuel, about 1000 litres of
petrol and some clothing (worn).
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Fig. 95. East coast of Greenland from Cape Borlace Warren to Bass Rock. !!/s 1910.
Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition. 185
Until the beginning of September of this year, Capt. MIKKELSEN
may perhaps be expected at the depot, and he would then want to come
home, if a ship should be here. The map is left here for Capt. MIKKEL-
SEN in case of his coming.
WILHELM LAUB,
Second in command of the expedition.
In addition we left the report to the committee, which had been
previously deposited there.
We attempted twice to get clear of the ice, but had to return
each time, as it appeared that we had got into a bay in the ice. The
second attempt to get clear was made on the night between Sth and 9th
of August, when we again experienced a lot of trouble in getting back
to the land water, there being continual and strong movement in the
ice, but finally on the morning of the 9th we again succeeded in
reaching land.
At Эа. m. the same day, when up in the crosstrees, I caught sight
of a three-masted schooner-rigged steamer inside us in the land water
to the southwest, working northward. Believing her to be the “Laura”,
we tried to bear down upon her. When, however, we got alongside, she
turned out to be the “Minerva” of Christiania, with her owner Mac-
NUS N. GJEVER and an Austrian Count and Countess MERVELDT with
a party on board, the Count having chartered the ship to go on a
shooting expedition.
At Clavering Island the “Minerva” had come across the “Laura”,
which at that time had made two attempts to reach Shannon Island,
but without result, whereupon the “Minerva” had promised to try to
get into touch with us, as the “Laura” had to proceed home.
After having called at Bass Rock, the “Minerva” on the 3rd of
August went in quite close to the depot at Shannon Island, but as no
signal was to be observed, she continued in a northerly direction with
the object of reaching our winter quarters. This attempt failed on
account of the heavy ice. When we got up with her, she was heading
for the Shannon depot. All on board the “Minerva” assisted us in
every possible way and offered to take JØRGENSEN home with them,
as he would be better looked after on board the ship which carried a
doctor, but he declined the courteous offer, preferring to go home
with us.
At 5 p.m. we parted company, the “Minerva” shaping her course
for Clavering Island, whilst we with the “7de Juni” headed SE through
the ice. All went well until a couple of hours after midnight, when we
had to turn and sail westward, as we again had got into a bay in
the ice.
During the same watch the propeller was smashed by an ice foot so
that the motor could not be used, and we had to sail entirely under
canvas.
LA
Br rt
184 Wırnerm Lave: Report concerning the remaining part of the expedition.
On August 10th at noon we were under the land off Saddelberg
and kept south until we made Cape Borlace-Warren, after which we
proceeded full and by in an easterly direction (Fig. 95). This time we
had actually found the passage out from the ice. The latter became
gradually less compact, and at 9 a.m. on the 11 of August, we noticed
the swell which increased, until at noon in 73°38’.5 N by 11°40’ W we
passed the edge of the ice.
On August 15th at noon we passed Jan Mayen to the northward
and eastward at about 30 miles off, and finally on August 19th 1910
at 7 p.m. the “7de Juni” made Aalesund Harbour.
Ш.
NOTES ОМ THE SEA-ICE ALONG THE
EAST COAST OF GREENLAND
BY
EJNAR MIKKELSEN
Notes on the state of the coast-ice from Erik S. Henius’ Land
to Shannon Island in 1910.
Tue following notes, compiled on the return-voyage from Danmark’s
Fjord during the months of May, June, July, August, September 1910,
are rather fragmentary, as my journal, in which a strict account of this
matter was kept, became lost while lymg in a depot in Skeerfjorden.
IVERSEN, however, kept a journal, from which most of the notes are
taken, and something has been added from memory.
The ice along the coast of Erik S. Henius’ Land was presumably
several years old, and had not moved much within the last year. A
very narrow band of year-old ice! 8—25 metres broad followed the
face of the glacier, and a comparatively large tract of year-old ice was
noticed off Nakkehoved, where there must have been open water
during the preceding summer.
A rather broad stretch of year-old ice was found along the SE coast
of Kronprins Christian’s Land from Nordost-Rundingen and southward
to Eskimonesset, where we encountered some rather high pressure-ridges
close on land, in places even piled up on the coast itself, and it was
evident .that the ice had been subject to a very severe strain down to
the end of Feldestrand, from where the edge of the pack-ice trended
away from the coast to the SE*, leaving a space, several miles broad
between it and the coast, covered with year-old ice.
The mouth of Dijmphna Sound was entirely filled with large
pieces of ice, bound together by year-old ice, but it was not pressed up
in ridges and had not been exposed to any strain whatsoever, as it was
composed of ice, stranded in the shallow water of Dijmphna Sound.
We met the edge of the pack-ice and heavy pressure-ridges about
5—7 miles off Hovgaard Island, and the ice between it and the coast
was all year-old ice, quite smooth and with only a few small pressure-
ridges. Only very few old floes were frozen into this ice. The same
kind of ice extended down to and encircled Bagatellerne, but from
there and just north of Hagen Island we passed no sea-ice whatsoever.
lie. ice frozen during the preceding autumn and winter.
2 all directions are true.
188 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
Of open water we saw (in June) one large pond off Holm’s Land,
but it was not particularly broad, probably not more than 2 à 3 miles.
The general impression of the state of ice from Nordost-Rundingen to
Bagatellerne was the following, viz. that a landwater, variating in
breadth from 2 to 7 miles, had extended between these two places with-
out any interruption some time during the late summer of 1909.
The sea-ice we met with again and traversed on Sept. 8th, a few
miles to the north of Hagen Island, but it was so newly frozen that
it was barely strong enough to carry the weight of a man. From a
mountain on the NE point of Orleans Island, about 150 metres high,
no pack-ice nor year-old ice was in sight anywhere, and the open sea
extended to and probably beyond Ile de France.
No ice whatsoever, neither new nor old, was found along the coast
from Orleans Sound to Cape Amélie on Sept. 12th, and not till the
inner half of Penthievre Fjord did we find unbroken ice.
The unbroken year-old ice extended across the inner half of Sker-
fjorden, but there had been a slight motion in it a few days before
we crossed it.
There was no pack-ice in sight from the highest parts of the coast
between Cape Marie Valdemar to Syttenkilometernesset; and there
were but few grounded pieces of ice along this coast. It was only among
these that the new ice had formed, and was solid enough for us to
walk on as late as Sept. 18th—19th.
Danmark’s Havn was quite open, when we reached it on Sept. 19th,
and so was all the water visible from Harefjeldene. The new ice was
not solid enough to travel on till Oct. 11th, and the ice between Kolde-
wey Island and the mainland must have been broken up again as late
as the latter days of October, as the snow-covered surface of the ice
bore plain evidence of having been washed over by saltwater.
Very heavy pack-ice filled the bay between Haystack and Shan-
non Island, and there were no indications of its having been broken
up during the summer of 1910.
Notes on the state of the coast-ice during the journey in 1909
from Shannon Island to Lambert’s Land and in 1911 from Shannon
Island to Skærijorden.
The new ice under land and between the floes of the pack-ice was
not considered solid enough to travel on till Sept. 25th, 1909. On the
journey from Shannon Island to Danmark’s Havn old floes with new
ice in between were passed until 20 miles north of Shannon Island,
when we came to large areas, where there had been perfectly open
water during the summer of 1909, and from the south point of Kolde-
wey Island to Danmark’s Havn we only passed very few old floes, so.
Notes on the sea-ice along the east coast of Greenland. 189
it was evident, that the sea on this stretch had been quite open during
the preceding summer.
We followed the coast from Oksebladet to Cape Marie Valdemar,
sledging on new ice, and we noticed the edge of the heavy pack about
3 miles off the coast. There were rather large ponds between the
ice-floes far out to sea. The new ice extended across Skerfjorden and
further along the coast as far as a few miles beyond Bjorneskeret, where
it gradually passed into unbroken year-old ice.
From there and northward we did not meet with ice, which had
been broken in the course of the preceding summer, and the sea-ice
among the many islands of Jokelbugten was very old.
Another journey was performed from Shannon Island and north-
ward during the spring of 1911.
Between Shannon Island and the south end of Koldewey Island
we passed several very large ponds, only recently frozen over, and it
was evident that the ice, far into the bay between the two islands,
had been in continuous motion during the winter.
An open lead of landwater was noticed and partly followed along
the east coast of Koldewey Island, variating in breadth from 200 to
1000 metres. Some large ponds between the pack-ice were seen several
miles off land from an elevated part of Koldewey Island.
The open lead extended all the way from Koldewey Island to
Cape Bismarck, further past Oksebladet and to Cape Marie Valdemar,
but it was as a rule considerably narrower on this latter stretch than
further south. The pack-ice outside appeared very slack.
A remarkable change in the breadth of the landwater took place
in the days between May 13th and 18th, although the weather had been
quite calm during the intervening days. The landwater had for some
reason or other increased so much that it appeared as an open sea with
small floes drifting about in it, and extended as far as could be seen
from the high land back of Cape Marie Valdemar toward Ile de
France, and all the way along the coast southward at least as far as
beyond Oksebladet. The breadth of the landwater was on an average
about 3 miles, and the pack-ice beyond had no defined edge. The solid
land-ice was only about 100 metres broad off the most prominent
points of the coast from Cape Marie Valdemar to Syttenkilometer-
næsset.
The lead along the east coast of Koldewey Island was the same
when we saw it on our return-journey (beginning of June) as when going
north in May. The open water or unsafe ice between Koldewey Is-
land and Shannon Island came within 10 miles off Haystack, where we
passed ice, which was at most a month old, an absolute proof that the
ice-floes even in this rather sheltered bay are churned about during the
winter and spring.
190 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
Observations on the state of ice in the neighbourhood of
Shannon Island and Bass Rock,
during the years 1909, 1910, 1911, 1912.
Observations on the distribution of water and ice, the motion of
the pack-ice, the influence of the different winds on the ice etc. were
made during the three years, when the expedition had its headquarters
on or in the neighbourhood of Shannon Island.
When on August 25th 1909 the “Alabama” had become liberated
from the pack-ice, in which she was drifting, she entered a landwater
4 å 5 miles broad and almost tree of ice, extending along the east coast
of Shannon Island from Cape Philip Broke, beyond Cape Pansch and
northwards until off Cape Sussi, where it narrowed considerably and
closed up entirely about 4 miles north of Cape Borgen.
Frozen Bay was open at its northermost end, the remainder of it
being filled either with unbroken ice or drifting floes!.
The pack-ice immediately north of Shannon Island appeared very
packed when seen from the top of Meyersteins Mountain, a height of
305 metres, but further to the north around the south end of Koldewey
Island some very large ponds could be seen.
The strait between Shannon Island and the mainland was quite
open, and a line of grounded icebergs, from Cape Copeland to the main-
land, formed a barrier, against which the pack-ice was pressed with
great force.
There was open water to the south of Cape Philip Broke, and no
ice could be seen to the south of SE from the cape.
The ice remained in this state for several weeks, and no motion
was noticeable in the pack-ice between Shannon Island and Koldewey
Island. It was evident that the body ot ice, filling the southern end of
the bay, was set against the north coast of Shannon Island by the
current and not by the wind, as we experienced some rather strong
southerly breezes, which made no difference in the state of the ice
north of the island.
Some heavy northerly gales in the middle of September, gales which,
however, were of no long duration, drove the pack-ice against the east
coast of Shannon Island and into Frozen Bay, closing up the landwater
entirely. The open water southward and westward from Cape Philip
Broke remained, however, in its former extent.
The young ice in the bays and between the pack-ice had on Sept.
1 The landwater was seen on August 20th, but it was closed up by a
northerly gale and remained closed until August 24th, when the wind calmed
down, giving way to a fresh SE wind, which within a few hours opened the
landwater described above, at the same time opening up the pack-ice — in which
the “Alabama” was beset — a good proof of the influence of different winds on
the pack-ice.
Notes on the sea-ice along the east coast of Greenland. 191
25th attained such a thickness that it was considered solid enough to
travel on.
The pack-ice remained close on the coast of Shannon Island during
the remainder of the winter, and no water was in sight at any time,
save to the south of Shannon Island, where during the whole winter
there was a large body of open water, extending from 1 å 2 miles south
of Cape Philip Broke, westward towards Cape David Gray, a distance
of about 10 miles and from there towards Bass Rock, and no pack-ice
could be seen inside a line from Cape Philip Broke to 3 & 4 miles clear
ot the island.
1910.
The pack-ice remained compact and close on land during the winter
and spring, and no water at all was visible between the floes from Meyer-
steins Mountain till July, when water began to appear between Cape
Pansch and Cape Philip Broke, but it was never so continuous as to
form even a narrow landwater.
The water to the south of Shannon Island had about the same
extent during the spring and summer as described above, and no motion
was noticeable in the pack-ice.
On August the 5th there was a very narrow landwater leading from
Cape Philip Broke to a couple of miles beyond Cape Pansch, but it was
impossible for a vessel to reach the winter harbour south of Cape Sussi.
The ice in Frozen Bay did not break up or melt at all during the
summer of 1910.
No indication of water along the coast of Shannon Island or between
the floes of the pack-ice was seen, when we returned to our winter-quar-
ters on November 25th, nor during the winter or early spring. There
must, however, have been extensive tracts of open water to the south
of Shannon Island, as the temperature in our winter-quarter rose very
much, whenever the wind was southerly?.
1911.
When medio March we arrived at Cape Philip Broke we saw a large
area of open water, extending from the cape as far as a little outside
Bass Rock, and in the direction of Cape David Gray, thus forming a
large triangle free of ice. The open water extended into Freeden Bay,
about 2 miles to the north of a line Cape Philip Broke—Cape David
Gray. We noticed several times that floes, breaking off from the land-ice
between Shannon Island and Bass Rock, drifted at a right angle away
from the land-ice, even against the wind.
1 In order to show the difference in the condition of the ice in places not
very far removed from each other the attention is called to the open water
south and west of Пе de France and all along the east coast of Germania Land,
seen on our return journey in the fall of 1910.
192 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
The pack-ice consisted of small, but very rough floes.
On March 23rd a fresh northerly breeze opened up a very large
pond between floes of the pack-ice extending as far as the horizon, seen
from the height of 100 metres, and the open water to the south of Shan-
non Island increased considerably in size. The pack-ice itself seemed
also more slack than formerly.
The northerly breezes and gales continued until March 31st, causing
the land-ice to disappear almost entirely; so no land-ice could be seen
toward Cape David Gray from an elevation of 100 metres, and no pack-
ice could be seen within 30° off Bass Rock from the same place.
The stretch of open water to the east of Cape Philip Broke also
increased during this windy period, and no ice whatsoever could be seen
in this direction over an angle of at least 25°. Judging by the ice-blink,
which frequently was very marked, there was much open water between
the pack-ice.
The pack-ice came nearer to land, the openings between the floes
closed up, and the open water to the east disappeared entirely after
two days of calm weather.
The first indication of landwater from Cape Philip Broke north-
ward appeared on April 19th, but it was very narrow.
On June 6th the pack-ice was seen from an elevation of 150 metres
on the NE end of Shannon Island, and much open water was seen between
the floes in SSE, but at least 10 å 15 miles off land. No landwater was
visible along the east coast of Shannon Island. The stretch of open
water between the pack-ice increased and came nearer to the land, and
on June 11th, five days after it was first seen, it had attained the ap-
pearance of a continuous lead from beyond the horizon to within 3 a
4 miles off the coast. The weather had been very fair during the inter-
vening days with calm or changeable winds, but mostly from the
north.
From June 16th to Sept. 19th we remained on Cape Philip Broke,
awaiting the arrival of a vessel.
The distribution of ice and water was about the same, as when we
left the cape in April, the only change being that the land-ice had de-
creased still more in extent and had only a breadth of about half a mile
just south of the cape.
A south-easterly gale was blowing on June 18th, and it scattered
the pack-ice to such an extent that no ice was visible between Bass
Rock and a lane SE of Cape Philip Broke. This large area of open
water tapered down in breadth near Shannon Island, but there was still
a rather broad landwater from Cape Philip Broke to beyond Cape Pansch.
The pack-ice itself was quite open.
Upon this great slackening of the ice there followed a period of
easterly winds, which once more compressed the mass of ice so that it
was more compact on June 24th, than it had been at any time during
Notes on the sea-ice along the east coast of Greenland. 193
the year. The stretch of open water to the south of Shannon Island
decreased very much in extent during this period.
It was, however, only of short duration, and on June 28th, after a
rather strong south-easterly gale, the conditions had improved so much that
a landwater about 4 å 6 miles broad could be seen extending all along
the east coast of Shannon Island; the pack-ice however seemed very
compressed judging by the looks of the sky. The ice was drifting to the
south with a velocity of 3 А 5 miles a day.
The pack-ice again came nearer to the land during the first days
of July — after some days of northerly and north-easterly breezes — and
a large amount of ice drifted about in the water to the south of Shannon
Island, which had formerly been quite open. The pack-ice itself was
very heavy; there was no water at all visible between the floes, and
the drift seemed entirely stopped. On July 4th a fresh SE wind for
the first time caused no perceptible change in the state of the ice.
The usual opening in the pack-ice to the east of Cape Philip Broke
was seen on July 9th, but the bay between Shannon Island and Bass
Rock was entirely filled with ice drifting backwards and forwards with
the tide, and the landwater had ceased to exist.
The pack-ice seemed still more slack on July 13th, but its edge was
quite impenetrable. The pack-ice under land drifted so fast, that a large
iceberg drifted from abreast of Cape Philip Broke and out of sight to
the south within two days.
A northerly gale on July 15th and 16th drove the ice on land in
very large floes — a single floe stretching as far as the horizon in all
directions when seen from the height of 100 metres, and there was no
water at all in sight even close under land.
The ice remained immovable in this state all of July and the greater
part of August, and the direction of the wind, which formerly had such
a marked influence on the ice, had absolutely no influence whether
blowing from the north or south.
The land-ice in Freeden Bay broke up on August 9th, but could
not drift away owing to the pack-ice, which was pressed close on to it.
A very pronounced water-sky was noticed to the east of Cape Philip
Broke on August 11th, but no water was in sight from an elevation
of 100 metres, and there was absolutely no change in the state of the
pack-ice nearer at hand till August 14th when — in consequence of
persistent SE winds — the pack-ice generally speaking opened up and
seemed navigable, but there was as yet no landwater and no indication
of openings between the floes further to the north.
The ice between Shannon Island and the mainland broke up on
August 19th and by its size and momentum cleared away all the smaller
ice-floes between Shannon Island and Bass Rock, but it was unable to
drift clear away on account of the pack-ice, which stopped its progress
when approaching the main current. It was not till August 23rd that
LI. 13
194 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
the bay between Shannon Island and Bass Rock once more became
free of ice, owing to the influence of a rather fresh westerly gale, but
the pack-ice remained as closely packed as before.
This little improvement in the state of the ice lasted only a short
time, owing to some strong northerly breezes, and on the last day of
August there was hardly so much water around the prominent capes
that they could be passed by a whaling-boat.
The ice remained stationary like this until the middle of September,
when a decided improvement took place. The pack-ice was now rather
open, and the landwater was free of drifting ice, but there were no open-
ings to be seen in the ice to the east and north of Shannon Island.
On Sept. 18th, and 19th a violent gale from the north opened the
landwater still more, but on the other hand it compressed the pack-ice
considerably.
We left Cape Philip Broke on the following day, and on Sept. 24th
when we stood on top of Meyersteins Mountain on the NE point of
Shannon Island, no water whatsoever could be seen in any direction,
save in the strait between Shannon Island and the mainland.
The ice remained apparently immovable until Oct. 15th, when we
left the winter-quarters for Bass Rock.
The ice in Frozen Bay had remained stationary during the summer.
When on November 12th we returned to Cape Philip Broke, there
was more water between the pack-ice than at any time during the sum-
mer, and the stretch of open water between Shannon Island and Bass
Rock had such a great extent that no ice was visible to the S of SSE.
The land-ice between Cape Philip Broke and Cape David Gray had
a large indenture toward the north approaching within 3 miles the bot-
tom of Freeden Bay, and, following the edge of the land-ice it was not
till beyond the middle of the bay that the edge fell off to the southwest.
This place was so far to the west that Bass Rock could be seen clear
of Pendulum Island when sledging to Bass Rock and being half way
between it and Shannon Island.
The open landwater off Bass Rock had on Nov. 23rd a breadth of
about half a mile and extended in both directions along the coast as
far as the horizon.
The land-ice adhering to Bass Rock and kept in place by frozen-in
icebergs was not more than 400 metres broad.
On December 4th, after a southerly gale, which however did not
last very long, there was no ice to be seen abreast of Bass Rock from an
elevation of about 75 metres, and allowing for the darkness the land-
water must at least have had a breadth of 4 å 5 miles. There was like-
wise no ice to be seen to the north or NE, and to the south the land-
water went close around Cape Desbrowe.
The state of the ice during the month of December — which was
unusually calm — was as described above.
Notes on the sea-ice along the east coast of Greenland. 195
There must, however, have been a great deal of motion in the pack-
ice, as the thin ice covering the landwater was repeatedly broken up
and carried away, and this ice never attained the thickness of 10 cm
even during quite calm spells, or when the weather was at its coldest.
1912.
The state of the ice during the month of January 1912 was about
the same as in December, with the exception that the breadth of the
land-water was more constant, being on an average about 3 miles. There
was no pack-ice to be seen towards Cape Philip Broke, and the edge
of the land-ice extended north from Bass Rock on a course a little to
the east of Cape David Gray.
On February 15%, from the high land back of Cape Philip Broke,
there was no ice to be seen in ESE, but it lay close on the coast from
the cape (Philip Broke) and northward. The open water just south
of the cape had a breadth of 3 miles, and a northerly storm on Feb. 3rd
set the pack-ice still farther out from land.
All of February the ice off Bass Rock remained the same as in Decem-
ber and January, with the exception of a few small changes owing to
the different winds, but none of them were of long duration. Northerly
and northwesterly winds pressed the ice a little closer on land, while
at the same time all ponds between the pack-ice closed up, and easterly
or southerly winds opened up the ice and set it farther from land. The
influence of the wind only lasted, while it was blowing, and the ice re-
sumed its usual limits, as soon as the wind abated.
On March 2nd, while on the Walrus Island, the landwater was noticed
to extend as far north and south as could be seen from an elevation
of about 75 metres, following the main lines of the land and coming
within half a mile of the most prominent capes. The breadth of the
land-water was оп an average 1 144—3 miles, and large isolated fog-banks
over the pack-ice indicated open water in many places.
The winter 1911—12 had until the month of March been unusually
calm and cold, but in the course of this month the weather changed
entirely, and the wind blew strongly and persistently from the north.
The landwater was consequently a little more restricted off Bass Rock,
than it used to be, and the pack-ice appeared more dense than formerly
during the winter, but the large body of open water to the south of
Shannon Island had its usual extent, and the landwater extended as far
north and south, as could be seen from an elevation of 125 metres.
We were sledging about during the greater part of April and visited
the winter-harbour near Cape Sussi. This spring the state of the ice
was different from what it had been during the preceding years, and
on April 10th from the top of Meyersteins Mountain, we could see a
very broad land-water extending all along the east coast of Shannon Island
and toward Koldewey Island as far as the horizon. The landwater had a
13*
196 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
breadth of at least 2 miles, was quite unobstructed and connected the
open water to the south of Shannon Island with a large area of open
water south of Koldewey Island, which open water apparently came
within a few miles off Haystack. Far away in the SE between the pack
another large pond or chain of ponds could be seen, but the pack was
otherwise heavy and was made up of very large floes — at least just
off the shore. The weather had been fair and calm during the preceding
days, so the open landwater and ponds were not the consequence of
untoward breezes.
On April 12th a heavy northerly gale temporarily closed the landwater.
On April 16th from the highlands back of Cape Philip Broke we
could see no pack-ice to the south of SSE. There was an open and rather
broad stretch of landwater as far as Cape Pansch, and the land-ice itself
was very narrow south of Cape Philip Broke. The open water south
of Shannon Island reached a line connecting Cape Philip Broke with
Cape David Gray, but it was covered with quite thin ice, cracked up
in all directions.
The state of the ice off Bass Rock was on April 28th nearly the
same as during the winter, only still more open, and no pack-ice could
be seen to the north of ENE. The landwater off Bass Rock had a breadth
of at least 2 miles, and extended as far south as we could see. Much
open water was seen further out to sea, just back of a narrow tongue
of ice separating it from the open water, and the pack-ice seen from
an elevation of about 300 metres seemed quite navigable, even with
a sailing vessel.
During the month of May the ice was subject to rather great changes,
and the pack seemed to be in much greater motion than formerly. During
the whole month there appeared almost permanently a very large opening
in the ice to the east of Pendulum Island, and from the top of Bass
Rock there was frequently no ice in sight in that direction. The land-
water was not so pronounced as formerly, owing to the fact that large
floes drifted into it, but the ice was on the whole extremely open, and
the pack, when seen from an elevation of about 300 metres, would have
offered no resistance whatsoever to a ship penetrating it.
New ice was still forming during this month, but it never attained
a thickness of more than 2 å 4 cm, before it was broken up by the waves
or the general motion of the ice. The ice drifted more steadily to the
south than formerly during the winter or the spring, and several large
icebergs were drifting by at a rate of 4 à 6 miles a day.
What is said about the state of the pack-ice in May can on the
whole also be said of its state during the month of June, with the ex-
ception that the landwater was again rather pronounced. In clear
weather it was on a few occasions possible to see it extending beyond
Cape Philip Broke, and the view seaward from the top of Bass Rock
was that of a perfectly open sea, bordered in the far distance by a
Notes on the sea-ice along the east coast of Greenland. 197
broken line of pack-ice. Only a few floes drifted about in the water,
and towards the end of the month there was hardly any pack in sight
from an elevation of 300 metres (Pendulum Island). The icebergs or
large floes, which could be recognized, were seen drifting to the south
with great rapidity.
The land-ice was rapidly disappearing during the month of June,
and melting water was standing on the icefoot from June 10th. The
land-ice was seen to be perfectly “rotten” after a few days of foggy
weather, which ended on June 23rd, and an ordinary gale would break
it all up.
During the month of June the wind was decidedly southerly, as
for 20 days it was blowing from the S and SE and only for five days
from the N and NE.
The state of the ice during the early part of July was the same
as in June, until July 10th, when a fresh northerly wind forced the
the pack-ice on land, so that the landwater decreased in breadth from
10 à 15 miles to 2 miles off Bass Rock, and the pack-ice approaching
the land consisted of very large floes.
This gale broke up the land-ice off Bass Rock and in Freeden Bay
and raised such a swell that the ice close to land rose and sank at least
50 cm.
It seems incredible that this swell which lasted for almost a day
and a night, after the gale had subsided, should originate from the now
very small area of open water visible to the north, and it seems most
reasonable to presume that the swell, felt so strongly on land, origi-
nated in the open sea beyond the pack-ice, as it would otherwise have
died down with the wind, if it had come from a local pond. The length
and regularity of the waves also indicated that the swell was not local,
and its effect was seen on the slowly heaving land-ice to the NW of
Bass Rock.
A subsequent slackening in the ice — owing to southerly winds
— lasted only a couple of days, and on July 14th the ice was closer
on land, and the pack-ice was more compressed than at any time since
the early spring.
It seems that when the ice, during summertime, had once been set
on land, a land-breeze is necessary to drift it out to sea again, as it comes
within the limits of the tide and drifts up and down the coast in the
area, where the landwater was formerly found. The main current does
not go into the deeper bays, but in most places follows a line connecting
the outermost points, and the loose ice in the landwater will consequently
be beyond its limits and remain an almost stationary and compact
mass of ice, often preventing ships, which have penetrated through the
pack-ice, from reaching land.
When the “Sjeblomsten” came on July 19th just after a strong
SE wind, the pack-ice was once more open, and the landwater broad,
198 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
in which state it remained, until we left the coast on July 21th. The
landwater off Gael Hamkes Bay was quite open and free of ice, and
anything aproaching the appearance of pack-ice was not met before
about 30 miles off land.
The coastwater along the north-east coast of Greenland.
By the term of coastwater is implied the body of water, which
is usually found between the floating pack-ice and the solid land-ice.
A rather broad coastwater seems in the habit of forming every year,
and it extends at least from Ile de France and southward along the
east coast of Greenland.
That this is so from Shannon Island and southward along the coast,
probably all the way to Cape Farvel, is a well-known fact, but it is
only during later years that sufficient material has been collected to
make a sort of basis for our knowledge of the existence of this coast-
water, from Shannon Island and northward.
It was during the cruise of the “Belgica” in 1905 that this nor-
therly coastwater was noticed for the first time, and since then, until
1912, we have direct or indirect information regarding its existence,
from which we either know that the coastwater has been seen, or can
infer with certainty by the state of the ice that it had existed during
the preceding summer.
The information is this:
In the year 1905 “Belgica” found open coastwater as far as Ile de
France.
1906 “Danmark” found broad coastwater as far as
17°32’ N. Lat.
1907 no coastwater on the northeast coast. (Danmark-
Expedition).
1908 “Danmark” found broad coastwater as far as
78° N. Lat.
1909 Plain evidence of open coastwater beyond 77°45’
N. Lat. (MIKKELSEN).
1910 Broad coastwater as far as at least 78° N. Lat.
(MIKKELSEN).
1911 A very broad coastwater from Shannon Island
northward to Ile de France, during the months of
April, May and June, but probably no coastwater
during the summer. (MIKKELSEN).
1912 “Godthaab” found open coastwater off Koldewey
Island to Cape Bismarck and beyond.
From this material, covering a span of eight years, it will be seen
that the coastwater has existed every year except one, and it will pro-
bably not be a premature conclusion to infer that coastwater is found
Notes on the sea-ice along the east coast of Greenland. 199
annually during summers with ordinary ice-conditions from Ile de France
and probably even from further north to the south along the east coast
of Greenland.
The breadth of this coastwater is very variable, ranging from half
a mile to ЗА 4 miles — in some places even more — and it will, at least
in the early summer, be rather free of drifting ice, the pack-ice as
a rule not going beyond the limits of the main polar current.
But later in the year, in June or July, the coastwater is likely to be
filled with drifting ice-floes, either with pieces breaking off from the solid
land-ice or by small floes forced away from the main pack by strong
NE winds. This ice will — as stated above (p. 197) — remain in the
coastwater and often obstruct it entirely, until a strong land-breeze
forces it out to sea, where it once more gets within the grip of the main
current.
The coastwater, which forms the boundary between the solid land-ice
and the drifting pack-ice will probably mark the inner termination of
the polar current, as all ice outside the coastwater drifts to the south,
whatever the direction of the wind, and the theory put forth by TROLLE!
to the effect that the main current follows an imaginary line rather far
out to sea from Nordost-Rundingen to Shannon Island, does not seem
quite correct, as nothing but a continuous drift to the south could form
a coastwater free of ice and extending along the coast during the greater
part of the year.
The “imaginary line” of TROLLE hes about 60 miles off land in the
place where it is furthest out (off Jokel Bay), and it is unlikely that
the current should not be deflected towards the west, rather close on
land, as everywhere else on the east coast of Greenland. Also, if the
main current or a branch of it did not reach the coast of the mainland,
then all the ice in this area of slack water would freeze together and
on to the land, thus forming a very broad stretch of land-ice, as the
motion in the water caused by the tide or changing winds would be
quite insufficient to keep this large area broken all during the winter,
and we know that the ice is nearly always broken close to all promi-
nent points, viz: Mallemukfjældet, He de France, Cape Bismarck and
Shannon Island.
Another, and possibly the safest proof of the existence of a branch
of the main polar current, close to the north-east coast of Greenland,
is the rather large amount of drift-wood found in Danmark’s Fjord, on
the coasts of Holm’s and Amdrup’s Land and along the north coast of
Germania Land. This drift-wood must have been brought there by the
current, as it could not otherwise have been stranded on land far within
the limits of the main current.
1 TROLLE: Hydrographical Observations from the Danmark-Expedition.
Medd. om Grønland, vol. XLI, pag. 406.
200 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
A branch of the main current will thus — in my opinion — go
close along the coast of Greenland, inside the Belgica Shoal, and
unite with the main current somewhere in the vicinity of Shannon
Island; this current, while setting the ice continually to the south, will
make the coastwater by keeping the ice outside it in continuous motion.
The coastwater has a uniform breadth along shores in a direction
from north to south, but increases considerably in extent just south of
islands or promontories with coasts trending E—W, in which latter places
the water areas are almost permanent in size.
These open areas of water are found south of Ile de France (“Belgica”
1905, “Danmark” 1906, 1908, Мтккетзем 1909, 1910, 1911) probably
south of Koldewey Island (“Belgica” 1905, MIKKELSEN 1909, 1910,
1911, 1912) and south of Shannon Island.
This area of open water (south of Shannon Island) was noticed
during the winter of 1870 by the German Expedition”, by the members
of the Danmark-Expedition, when in 1906 and 1908 they visited Bass
Rock and Shannon Island’, and finally by ourselves in the years 1909,
1910, 4917, 1912:
Open water during the winter seems, in this locality, an established
fact, and will most likely be formed every year. The principal reason
for its existence is the main polar current, which follows the coast from
promontory to promontory and deflects a little towards the west ın the
deeper bays. The current keeps the pack-ice in continuous motion
and prevents it from freezing on to the land-ice.
But that does not quite explain, why the land-ice should form a
bay, several miles deep, just south of Shannon Island, a bay, which is
usually quite free of drifting ice, and some other reason must be found
to explain its annual and permanent existence. We noticed — whenever
this area of open water was covered with thin ice — that when broken
up by the wind it drifted away from the solid land-ice, quite perpendi-
cular to its main direction and leaving between it a lane of open water.
Likewise, when a seal or a bird was shot near the edge of the solid
land-ice, it invariably drifted away to sea.
This set away from the land-ice can only be caused by a current,
as the set was often seen to be right against the wind, and while this
off-shore current can easily be explained during summer-time by the
outflow of melting water from the mainland of Greenland, this can not
be the case during the winter, when there is no outflow from the ice-cap,
and this drift, which exists winter as well as summer, must be accounted
for by some permanent cause throughout the year.
It seems the most likely assumption that a part of the main current
branches off south of Koldewey Island, bends westward and flows down
1 Koldewey. Die zweite deutsche Nordpolarfahrt. Vol. II, pag. 461, 546, etc.
2 Medd. om Grønland. Vol. XLI, pag. 496. Hydrographical Observations
of the Danmark-Expedition.
Notes on the sea-ice along the east coast of Greenland. 201
between Shannon Island and the mainland, until once more forced out
toward the main current by the obstruction which Sabine and Pendulum
Islands place in its way.
The existence of this branch can be inferred by the following facts:
that the bay between Koldewey Island and Shannon Island is al-
ways full of heavy pack-ice, making navigation between these
two islands difficult and often impossible, even when there is
open coastwater to the north and south of it,
that open water is found to the south of Koldewey Island, while
the pack-ice is forced as a compact mass against the north
shore of Shannon Island, even with southerly winds.
that the strait between Shannon Island and the mainland is as
rule open every summer and perfectly free of drift-ice, which
is kept in check at the northern end of the strait by stranded
icebergs,
that a rather large amount of drift-wood is found along the shores
of this strait, and finally
that all through the year there is a permanent outward set of the
water from the south end of the strait, as explained above.
This current which is thus supposed to sweep down between Shan-
non Island and the mainland, thereby encircling Shannon Island, will
cause the stretch of open water to the south of this island and explain
its annual existence.
From the general description of the conditions of the ice in the
vicinity of Shannon Island it will be seen that there is another, rather
permanent opening off land, which however cannot be considered in
connection with the coastwater, but must owe its origin to some other
source.
This opening is the large body of water seen to the east and ESE
off Cape Philip Broke on several occasions.
1910. No information regarding it.
1911. March 23rd. After northerly gale. Closes up after calm
weather in the early part of April.
June 6th open water seen upon the return from a sledge-trip.
July 9th all other openings closed up before a northerly wind
save the one in the east, but this one also closed up a
few days later.
August 11th. Water-sky in the same direction.
1912. February ist. No ice in sight east of Cape Philip Broke.
Indications of open water in this direction seen on several
occasions from the top of Bass Rock and Pendulum
Island.
This area of open water stretching almost from the coast and beyond
the horizon seems as a rule to form during the spring, before the drift
202 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
of the pack-ice gets so steady as to make its appearance impossible,
except after the disturbance in the drift caused by a gale. It seems.
to confirm the theory put forth by Amprup! that the ice from Shan-
non Island ard northward rather close under land should drift at a
lesser rate than at the outside of the pack. But it is difficult to see
the cause of this slow drift, as there is no known shoal in that vicinity,
which might stop the pack-ice. The explanation must — as inferred by
AMDRUP? — be sought in the currents, and it may be that this is the
approximate locality, where the branch of the Polar current (the one
inside Belgica Shoal) meets the main current.
The influence of the different winds on the pack-ice as noticed
from land.
By far the most predominating winds on the east coast of Greenland
are the northerly ones, and their effect on the ice is absolutely tending
to close it up. It has been noticed, during a period of three years, that
the openings between the pack-ice close, and that the pack-ice itself
comes nearer to land, when there is a wind from NNW to ENE or pos-
sibly even to the East. But the tendency to close up the pack-ice and
force it on land seems much greater during the summer than during
the winter, and this may probably be explained by the fact that there
is, as a rule, more open water between the pack-ice during the summer
than during the winter, and the wind will consequently be able to
move the single floes about and pack them together with greater ease,
than when — as during the winter — it is a nearly compact body, which.
has to be moved by the wind.
Southerly winds and winds even as easterly as ESE will, as a rule,
open up the pack-ice and set it away from land, and this in spite of the
fact that the wind is right on land, and the only time, when this wind
failed to have this effect on the pack-ice, was during the summer of
1911, when permanent northerly gales had packed the ice hard on land,
and the icebelt was very broad and dense.
A SW—W wind will always blow the ice away from the coast and
clear the coastwater of drifting ice, if the pack outside is not too dense,
while a
NW wind — almost right off land — will not always clear out
the ice.
A general rule regarding the influence of the winds on the ice is
the following:
that all winds from a direction north of E—W will trend to close:
up the pack and coastwater, while
1 Medd. om Grønland, vol. XX VII, pag. 142 and 143.
2 ibid. pag. 141.
Notes on the sea-ice along the east coast of Greenland. 203
all winds from a direction south of E—W will open the pack and
clear out the coastwater, if the conditions of the ice are nearly
normal.
Calm weather has as a rule the same effect as southerly winds,
viz: of causing the ice to open up, and the explanation of this may be
sought in the theory advanced by PETTERsSon!, that the melting of the
ice will form a local current away from the individual floes.
The pack-ice.
The large body of the ice between the east coast of Greenland and
the open water has since the time of ScorEesBy jun. (who gave a good
general description of it, chiefly based on personal observations and
experiments) been subject to much speculation, not only among the
men, who either sailed along or between it for purposes of hunting or
scientific research, but also among men of science, who have attempted
to generalize the now rather plentiful and equal mass of material.
In the following an attempt will be made to collect this material,
together with the reliable observations on the state of the ice, which
since 1894 have been carried on and published at the initiative of
the Meteorological Institute of Copenhagen. From these observations
which cover a span of nearly twenty years, besides stray information
gathered from other sources, some rules can be deduced which will be,
if not correct — the space of time is of course too short for that — at
least so universal that they may form the basis of further gene-
ralisations.
As the northern hemisphere is unnavigable during a great part of
the year, and the sealers etc. leave it, even before this period falls in,
it is only natural that the information regarding the outer edge of the
ice is limited to the months of April, May, June, July and August.
The position of the outer edge of the pack-ice variates considerably
according to the seasons, and all the material, which can safely be used,
has been collected in order to make this variation plain?.
The outer limits of the pack-ice for the months of April, May, June,
July and August are shown on the accompanying map (PI. V), which
shows the mean ice-limits for nineteen years. It will be noticed that
the edge of the ice only recedes very little from April to May, a little
more from May to June, still more from June to July, and again only
very little from July to August.
The real extent of this decrease of the ice-belt is more evident when
t5Y mer. Vol. 1900;, раз. 173.
” Ice-observations during all the years from 1894—1913 (inclusive), as well
as ice-limits of all recent expeditions and stray information gathered from
sealers.
204 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
looking over the following table, which is a rough calculation of the
decrease in the ice-belt, in square miles, between the different parallels.
Average decrease of the pack-ice off the east coast of Greenland from
67° N. Lat.—79°,N. Lat. in April, May, June, July & August.
| | | Total decrease
April— | May— | June— | July— in the quantity of
May | June | July | August | ice from April—
| August
67°—68° М. Lat.... | 900 | 3,000 3,900 | 3,000 10,800
GC yl 1,500 | 3,000 | 4,500 | 1,800 | 10,800
69°—70° — ... | 1,500 3,600 | 4800 | 1,200 11,100
Е ll 1,200 2,400 | 6,000 2,100 | 11,700
(et At a SEE | 900 | 2,400 | 6,300 | 2,400 12,000
12°—13° — ... 1,200 | 3,300 | 3,600 | 1,800 | 9,900
73°—T4° — ... | 600 3,600 3,600 | 2,100 | 9,900
(eB | 600 2,700 3,900 1,800 9,000
0: 2,100 2400 | 1,800 | 6,600
76°—11° — ... | 1,500 | 1,600 | 1,500 |: раб 4,000
TCR | 1,000 | 0 300° | Эээ 5,200
| 2400 | - 600 300 | 1,800 | 3,900
10,000 | 27,700 | 41100 | 26,100 | 104900
| | | |
The decrease in the magnitude of the ice-belt pr. month is thus:
From April to May 10% of total decrease from March—Sept.
- May - June 26% - — - - -
June July 359% - —- - - -
- July - August 25% - -- - - -
The reasons of this decrease are manifold, viz:
less ice coming from the Polar Basin than what drifts away to
the south; the influence on the ice-masses of the open ocean;
the warmer currents flowing along the edge of the ice in three
different places (branches of the Gulf-Stream); the melting
caused by the warmer weather during the spring and summer
and the decomposition of all thinner ice.
The latter will probably be found to be the principal cause of the
decrease, as all ice, which has been formed during the winter in the
large ponds and openings between the older floes, is not very thick,
has a salty surface, which accelerates the melting in an astonishing
degree, and a strength considerably less than that of the surrounding
older -ice. |
SCORESBY jun. gives a very good description of the rapid decom-
position of this kind of ice?) owing to the salt on its surface, which
1 = denotes increase.
* Account of the Arctic Regions. Vol. I, pag. 271.
Notes on the sea-ice along the east coast of Greenland. 205
aided by the comparatively warmer spring-weather eats large holes into
the floes, weakening them very much and forming a line of breakage.
The melting having proceeded so far, the year-old ice-field breaks
up, and its destruction is accelerated by the constant crush and grinding
along its edges of older floes.
The year-old ice is thus at an early period broken up in many small
floes, and the waves, warmer weather, melting water etc. get a larger
surface to demolish, which also accelerates matters.
The greater part of this comparatively thin ice, which during the
winter has filled all the open spaces between the older floes, will probably
have disappeared at the end of July — if not before.
The effect of the comparatively warm weather during the spring
will not make itself felt on the older ice, before some time has elapsed,
partly owing to the non-conducting snowlayer on its surface, and partly
on account of the low temperature, which the ice has retained from the
preceding winter. The temperature of the ice and snow must first rise al-
most to zero, after which the melting begins all of a sudden.
But this will not happen at the earliest before the end of June or
the beginning of July, and in conjunction with the above-mentioned
causes this will have the effect that the ice-belt decreases most from
June to July and less again from July to August, when the greater part
of the year-old ice has disappeared, so that the decrease in the extent
of the ice-belt for the rest of the season can only be caused by the demo-
lishing effects of the ice-crushing waves and melting.
The outer edge of the pack-ice recedes on an average 150 miles
during the period from April to August, between 77° N. Lat. and 67°
N. Lat.
This receding of the edge of the pack-ice has been discussed at
some length by PETTERSON, who on the strength of the observations
of one year, published in "The State of the Ice in the Arctic Seas” (1896)
calculated that the edge receded westward with the rate of about 5 miles
a day, durmg April and May. This however is not the case, but it
may be brought to mind that the limits of the ice were unusually
easterly during this year (1896). The mean of nineteen years of obser-
vations shows — as stated above — that the ice recedes 150 miles in
about as many days, or only one mile a day. PETTERSON maintains!)
that we must look for the cause of this receding in the melting of the
ice, caused by an underlying layer of water from the Gulf-Stream, which
comes within a couple of hundred metres of the surface, but it is difficult
to understand, why this heat should be able to influence the melting of
the pack-ice through 200 metres of cold surface-water, particularly as
the ice is never stationary, but drifts rather rapidly to the south over
the places, where the Gulf-Stream sends branches towards the east
coast of Greenland.
1 Ymer. (1900, pag. 176.
The rate of the ice-drifts from Angmagsalik to Cape Farvel.
Pack passes
Angmagsalik
Cape Farvel
| Number of
days
Distance
Average
| velocity of the |
current for
| every 24 hours
EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
25. Nov. 1884
24, Nov. 1894
21. Nov. 1897
11. Nov. 1898
20. Nov. 1899
15. Nov. 1900
5. Dec. 1901
26. Oct. 1902
22. Nov. 1903
c. 25. Oct. 19044
5. Nov. 1906
21. Nov. 1908
1. Nov. 1909
14. Nov. 1911
11. Nov. 1912
c. 25. Jan. 1885!
5, Feb. 1895
3. March 1898
c. 15. Jan. 1899
31. Jan. 1900
c. 6. Feb. 1901?
28. Jan. 1902
20. Nov. 1902
с. 1. Feb. 19043
12. Feb. 1905
8. Feb. 1907
10. Feb. 1909
30. Jan. 1910
16. Dec. 1911
25. Jan. 1913
60
13
102
c. 65
12
c. 82
54
25
71
109
95
81
91
32
74
|
|
400
206
1 End of January.
2 Tce observed at Cape Farvel; must thus have been there for some days.
Average velocity of the drift
3 Ice observed to the west of Cape Farvel 3. Feb., so the statement is not quite accurate.
4 Cannot be given for quite certain.
Heavy ice in April east of Iceland
Conditions of theice in East Greenland particularly good
Ice-belt narrow — — =
but conditions of the ice difficult
— middle = = —
rather good
heavy
— narrow = —
and very scattered
— middling but very heavy. Angmagsalik not navigated.
— narrow and very scattered
— very narrow
Notes on the sea-ice along the east coast of Greenland. 207
The body of ice between the east coast of Greenland has an average
breadth of about 200 miles. This mass of ice is continually moving
from north to south, and in the drift of ships beset on the ice or the
ice-drift itself (the time the pack takes to pass from Angmagsalik
to Cape Farvel), we have material to determine approximately the
velocity of this drift. This velocity is different in the outer and inner
edge of the ice-belt, and also different in the northerly and southerly
end of the ice-stream.
The material on the strength of which the velocity of the drift is
determined, is much more satisfactory from Angmagsalik to Cape Far-
vel than further north, owing to the possibility of ascertaining when
the first part of the main-pack in the autumn passes Angmagsalik as
well as Cape Farvelt.
Owing to this fact it is possible to judge of the velocity of the drift
almost every year, and its average velocity for fifteen years is 6,5 miles
a day (see the table on p. 206). Its greatest velocity is 16 miles a day
(1902) and its smallest 4 (1897, 1904, 1906). The drift-velocity of the
whaling fleet 1777 (see p. 208) and of Nansen 1888 is however greater,
respectively 18 and 23 miles a day, and the drift of the “Hansa” crew
1870 (see p. 208) is smaller, 3,2 miles a day, but this drift was partly
performed in the heart of the winter, and the floe on which the crew
drifted was so close inland that its velocity must have been retarded by
its freezing on to the land-ice.
The velocity of the drift from Angmagsalik and northward along
the east coast of Greenland is, however, more complicated, and the result
of a generalization cannot be considered nearly as accurate nor as close
to the actual average velocity as on the stretch Angmagsalik—Cape
Farvel, owing partly to the scarceness of material, but also to the
fact that it is often difficult to decide, whether a drift should be considered
as belonging to the inner or outer half of the ice-stream.
As a Базз for calculating the rate of drifting of the ice-mass
off the east coast of Greenland the following data are available:
1769. Four ships were ice-bound at 76° N. Lat. at the beginning of
July. Two of them were wrecked in the pack, whilst the
others liberated themselves from the ice the 16.—19. Nov. at
69° №. Lat. (Normann, Geografisk Tidsskrift, 1878.)
The ships had drifted 480 miles in 125 days, being a daily
average of about 4 miles.
1777. A whaling fleet blocked at about 79° N. Lat. and 6° E. Long.
on the 24th June. Drifted with the ice southward, and the last
+ Ice-observations for the different years from 1894—1913. “The State of
the Ice in the Arctic Seas” is every year published by the Danish Meteorological
Institute.
208
1869.
1895.
1899.
EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
ship was crushed on the 11th October at 611/, №. Lat. The
rate of drifting at the various parts of the stretch of coast,
which is 1380 miles in length, was something like this:
24/,—19/. drifted from about 79° to 67° 45’, a distance of
850 miles in 56 days, being an average of about 15 miles.
19/,—30/, drifted from 67° 45’ to 641/, a distance of
330 miles in 42 days, being an average of about 8 miles.
30/,—11/,, drifted from 64/,°—611/, a distance of
200 miles in 11 days, being an average of about 18 miles.
24/,—11/,), 1380 miles in 109 days, average с. 12,5 miles.
(Normann, Geografisk Tidsskrift, 1878.)
“Hansa” blocked the 8th Sept. at 74° 10’ N. Lat. and 151/,°
W. Long. —*/, 1870 at 61° 10’ N. lat. The rate of drifting at the
various places on the stretch of coast, which is about 1100 miles
long, is something like this:
4/,—27/,,1869 drifted from 74°10’ N. and 151/,.° W. to 67°N. and 27° W.
distance 510 miles ш 84 days, average 6,1 per day.
27| —25/, 1870 drifted from 67° N. and 27° W. to Angmagsalik
distance 290 miles in 59 days, average 4,9 per day.
25/ —6/. 1870 drifted from Angmagsalik to 61° 10’ М. Lat.
distance 320 miles in 101 days, average 3,2 per day.
4/, 1869—*/, 1870, 1120 miles in 244 days, average 4,6 per day.
“Sterkodder” from the 27/,—°/, from 731/.° N. Lat. and 9° W.
Long. to 71° 20’ N. Lat. and 6° 20’ W. Long. Distance about
140 miles in 14 days or 10 miles per day.
Sealers from the end of March to 1 to 2 weeks in April from
70° N. Lat. and 13° W. Long. towards SSW. to about 68° N. Lat.
Distance of about 140 miles with an average speed of about
12 miles in twenty-four hours.
“Anna” from 24/; to 8/, from 73° 6’ N. Lat. and 16° W. Long.
to 71° 20’ N. Lat. and 8° W. Long., a distance of about 190 miles
in a straight line, with an average speed of about 12 miles.
The average rate is, however, considerably greater, the ship
having drifted as follows:
24/ —30/. drifted 130 miles ESE in 7 days, average 19 miles daily
ois 055, SENS ie ="
Ale 1 eee О el pee cone =
Ziele 225 miles in 16 days, average 14 miles daily
“Anna” was drifting somewhat on the outside edge of the ice,
as a heavy swell was noticed, whilst the ship was jammed.
Notes on the sea-ice along the east coast of Greenland. 209
1903. “Зезтепе” 4/,—*"/, from 74° N. Lat: to 71° М. Lat.
Distance 180 miles in 12 days, average 15 miles per day.
1907. “Scotia” drifts from 79° N. Lat. towards SW. at about 17 miles
daily, Wind NW.
“Laura” drifts ?°/,—*°/, from 72° М. Lat. to 68° 50’ N. Lat. and
17°20’ W. Long. Distance about 190 miles in 40 days. Average 4,7.
BR Laura: dnfts’*, from 74 N.Lat. to 70° 57’ N. ав. De
stance 210 miles (straight line) in 36 days. Average 5,8.
If the windings in the course line are included, which are pro-
bably due to the wind, the distance will be 270 miles, giving
an average speed of 7,5 miles daily.
These 10 different drifts must — as stated above — be divided into
two classes, one where the drift has taken place under land, the other
where the drift hastaken place further out towards the edge of the pack-ice.
The material, on the strenght of which the velocity of the drift
under land has been determined, consists of 4 different cases, where ships
have been beset close under land, namely "Hansa” 1869, “Sostrene”
1903, “Laura” 1907 and 1911. The velocity with which these four drifts
have taken place are respectively 4,6, 15,0, 4,7 and 5,8 pr. day, giving
a daily average of 7,5 miles. This average is probably greater than
the actual one, as the velocity of the drift of the “Sostrene’? is so much
greater than any of the other drifts. In this connection it must be con-
sidered that the ship was only beset for twelve days, that the point
of departure as well as the place of arrival is uncertain within the distance
of about 25 miles, and that the year of 1903 had exceptionally good
ice-conditions with much open water between the floes, which of course
would accelerate the drift of a ship in a norhterly storm, as there was
room for the ice to be compressed.
Leaving the “Sostrene” out of the question 5,0 miles becomes the
average daily drift-velocity for ships beset under land, and this velocity
can probably be taken as a fair average af the speed of the arctic current
close under land.
The other drifts along the outer edge of the pack-ice are still more
unsatisfactory, at any rate as far as getting a fair average is concerned,
as the velocities are very variable and the material scanty.
The drift, unfortunately unsupported, which gives the best general
idea of the velocity of the drifts, is the one of the whaling-fleet, which
in 1777 became beset in the ice on 79° N. Lat.?. These vessels drifted
to the south with a daily rate of about 12 miles.
1 Ice-observations 1903.
* Geografisk Tidsskrift, 2. Bd., 1878, pag. 49.
51T: 14
210 EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
“Scotia”! drifted with a rate of 17 miles a day from 79° south-
ward, but nothing is mentioned as to where the drift ended.
Some sealing vessels drifted between 70°—68° N. Lat.? witha daily rate
of 12 miles, and this corresponds very well with the above-mentioned drifts.
Mention is made by С. Normann in Geografisk Tidskrift for 1878
pag. 52, of some whaling vessels (four in all) which in 1769 drifted from
76°—69°, or a distance of 480 miles in about 125 days. This gives а
daily average of about 4 miles, which mean, however, is so much lower
than the above-mentioned that it seems better to leave it out of the
reckoning altogether, particularly as no mention is made concerning
where the drift took place — that is, whether it was in the inner or outer
half of the pack-ice.
The average daily set of the ice in the outer half of the pack-ice
is thus about 14 miles — much greater than the set under land.
There are two more cases of ships drifting with the ice, which must
be taken into account, namely that of “Sterkodder” (1895) and “Anna”
(1899). These lines of drift go almost perpendicularly on the general
set of the main polar current, and the daily average is 12 miles.
In both cases the ships became beset in the early spring, and the
drift of the two vessels ended in a place, where there is very often a
tongue of ice, and where the ice-belt has a tendency to be at its broadest.
If these drift-lines are laid out on a map together with the current, it
will be seen that particularly the drift of the “Anna” corresponds entirely
with the latest information regarding the arctic current, where a part
of this current branches off from the main current between 73° and 74°
N. Lat. and runs towards the northern end of Jan Mayen. The only
way in which to explain the direction of the drift of “Stærkodder” and
“Аппа” is to presume that these vessels have been in the grip of this
branch of the main current.
The different drift-velocities are thus:
From the north to Angmagsalik 5,0 and 14,0 miles a day,
— Angmagsalik to Cape Farvel 6,5 miles a day,
which shows that the ice-drift under land takes place with about the
same velocity from at least 75° N. Lat. to Cape Farvel.
The unequal velocity of the ice-drift close under land and along the
edge of the pack-ice helps to prove the theory advanced by Capt. С. С.
Amprup‘, namely that the main arctic current does not reach the east
coast of Greenland on its northermost part, and that the south-going
current under land is a branch of the main current. This would cause
1 Ice-observations 1907.
2 Ice-observations 1899.
& Ice-observations for the years in question.
+ Medd. om Grønland. Vol. XXVII, pag. 141 and 142.
Notes on the sea-ice along the east coast of Greenland. 211
a difference in the drift of the ice, of which the innermost part would
be stationary compared to the outermost part, thereby making it pos-
sible for the north-water to form.
This, which was only an unsupported theory, has received addi-
tional proof in the finding of very shallow water on about 78° Lat. Lat.
(“Belgica”, 1905). This shoal, which has also been visited by the Dan-
mark-Expedition in 1908, comes at least within 58 metres of the surface
and there is of course no reason to believe, that the absolutely smallest
sounding has been taken in that vicinity, nor that eastern termination
of the shoal is accurately laid down, as no one has crossed the shoal.
On the contrary, it seems reasonable to suppose that the Belgica
Shoal extends considerably further to the east than is shown on the
Bathymetric Chart on Pl. XII (Meddelelser om Grønland, Vol. XLI, No.2),
as the “Belgica” — as well as other vessels — has met and sailed along
a seemingly unbroken body of ice, extending from about 80° N. Lat.
and 2°—3° Е. Long., towards the SW until 76° N. Lat. and 10° W. Long.,
where the southerly point was passed, and where the unbroken mass
of ice once more turns northward, оп a course inside the Belgica Shoalt).
This body of ice seems unbroken and solid, forming a large area
of stationary ice, and it is probably formed by large masses of ice frozen
on to the floes and icebergs grounded on the Belgica Shoal. The fact
that is area is lying between the main arctic current and the probable
branch along the coast of Greenland would aid the growth of the mass
of ice, as the current would probably be very slack between the two
branches of the arctic current.
This shoal, with the ice adhering to it, will force the main arctic
current coming from across the Polar Basin down between it and Spitz-
bergen, thus further narrowing the not very broad strait between these
two countries, whereby the speed of the current will be somewhat accele-
rated, bringing with it large masses of ice with a comparatively great
drift-velocity.
When the current has passed this shoal and has come south of the
place, where the extreme NW branch of the Gulf-Stream forces it west-
ward, pressing the drifting ice hard on the stationary ice, then it will
spread, partly outward, partly toward the coast of Greenland, where it
meets the branch coming inside the shoal and the ice floating out of
it, and having more space to spread in it will consequently be more
open just south of the stationary ice than further down the coast, where
the current will be restricted and thus compress the masses of ice within
its limits.
The extent of the body of stationary ice will probably be subject
т Ice-observations for July and August 1905, July 1906, July 1909.
Medd. om Grønland. Vol. XLI, pag. 278 and 279—281.
14*
212
EJNAR MIKKELSEN.
Facts concerning ships which have penetrated the ice to the east coast
of Greenland.
| Enteredtheicee |2s | 3%
| Year | Month || Name of the on Su || SS
| | ship wos S En | Er
| Lat. | Long. |“ | МЕ
1) 18227] I IN pain | 74°39"| 4°10" | 73°43
| \ June ii
2 | August Hercules | 73°41’| 7° 74°
3 | 1823 — Griper 74° 152 74° 207
4 || 1869 == Germania | 74900'| 14° 14° 30"
5| 1891 | July Hekla | 76°13’) 0°04’ | 74° 00 2 Poe SØER
6| 1896 | June | Lykkens Prøve | 74° NS | 14°
7 1898 | July Anna | 73° 192 74°
818992 June" Antarctic. || 74302 52 74° 30" |
9! — | May | Anna | 74250'| 5° || 73°06’) 16°
10| 1900 | June | Søstrene | 76°30'| 3230" | 74930" |
| July, Antarctic | 74°30'| 5° 74° 30’ |
12); — — | Fritjof | 72° 00’ | 10° | |
13 | 19001 RE | Laura | 71°30’ | 12° | 73° | { SELDE Gr ie ice very
14| — |August| Belgica || 74°10’ 12° 74° 45’ |
15| 1903 | — | Søstrene || 74° 10° |194
16 | 1904 | .— Laura | 72°30’/ 12° | 78° ню Ce
17 | 1905 | Мау Exelsior | 75°40'| 0° | 1274], PE el
18| — | July Belgica 107620022162 | 76°
о = | Magdalene | 73°00’| 5° | 15°
ее |200 5 øge
| | [№ Severin J | |
51| 1906 | — Laura | 75900'| 3° |.73930' | 17°
22| — |August| Danmark | 75°14’| 4° || 76°20’ |
23 1900 || Laura 75° | 75° |
94 | 1908 | June | Laura | 75° de | 75° | Te
| — | July {| ieee | Gram er alt 2) | fo 78010", ‘where. IE ПВО
| | “N Vesterisen JS | J) | by unbroken ice. The good con-
26 1909 | June | Belgica | 71° 7° || 73°30" | | waite aot that ie aes
Sl = July Laura 75° || 74° | | tends so far in a northern direction
28| — |August| Alabama | 75°03’| 11° 15°35" |
29! 1910 | June Laura | 749 1327 04 74000"
80| — | — Minerva TAS SON OC ae
31 || 1911 |: July Laura 13° | ee all
32 | 1912 | — Godthaab | 76° 3° II. 702 |
to great changes owing to the meteorological conditions during the pre-
ceding winter; thus in seasons following upon a éold and calm winter
the area covered with stationary ice will be very much larger than in
springs following upon warmer or more windy winters. This again implies
that less ice passes between the shoal and Spitzbergen, and this com-
paratively smaller amount of drift-ice, when once south of the Belgica
Notes on the sea-ice along the east coast of Greenland. 913
Shoal, has more space to spread in than in years when large masses
of ice can drift down. The obvious conclusion of this is that the ice-
belt will be more open south of the shoal with the ice adhering to it
in summers following upon a cold and particularly calm winter, than
in summers when the contrary has been the case.
This also corresponds with Amprup’s theory regarding the for-
mation of the North Bay between 74°—76° N. Lat., and when looking
over the material at hand regarding this question, i. e. a list of thirty-
two vessels, which we know to have penetrated the ice-belt, it will be
seen that by far the greater number have penetrated the ice-belt to the
coast of Greenland on 74°—75° N. Lat. There are of course many more
ships, which have reached the coast of Greenland, but these are not on
record.
Result of material collected in the course of these thirty-two
journeys:
9°/, of the vessels have penetrated to the coast between 76° and 77° М. Lat.
10°/, = = nes = Е
400/, = = = a (Ao ST oe
169%, ie = = = PEUT
130), = z= = RATS =
60), = = = (io eo
This list will probably undergo some changes in years to come, as
more ships are likely to go through the ice further to the north, where
it is known that an unbroken mass of ice exists on 76°—77° N. Lat.,
all the more as there is reason to suppose that better ice-conditions
are to be found close under this body of ice, as the loose ice will drift
away from it.
IV.
METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE
ALABAMA EXPEDITION
BY
H. HANSEN
ETEOROLOGICAL observations are as a rule taken on all arctic
M expeditions, as it may be very interesting for the expedition itself
to obtain numerical expressions for the meteorological conditions under
which it has worked in order to reach its goal. It may also be of great
value to another expedition, sent out some time in the future to
the same locality, to know the meteorological conditions which a pre-
ceding expedition had to compete with, and the manner in which it
has been possible for it to surmount the difficulties caused by the weather
conditions.
The meteorological observations collected on arctic expeditions are
however also of great value for meteorological science in general, if
gathered in such a manner that they — when researches over the atmo-
spherical conditions and changes over large areas are to be made — can
be worked into the observations taken in the same interval at the per-
manent meteorological stations in the surrounding net.
For such researches the observations taken on arctic expeditions
can be of exceedingly great value, as the material as a rule is gathered
in a locality, where there is a gap in the net of meteorological stations.
The observations can furthermore give some valuable information
as to the knowledge of the climate in these out-of-the-way localities,
but it must be remembered that the changes in the meteorological
elements are large in the arctic regions, wherefore it is necessary to have
observations which cover a large span of years in order to find even
approximately correct means and extremes.
The observations from the North-east coast of Greenland can be
of particular value for the construction of isobarmaps over the North-
Atlantic Ocean.
This is illustrated on figs. 2—10, which show some isobarmaps,
constructed on basis of observations from the permanent meteorologi-
cal stations on Greenland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden, all worked to-
gether with the observations taken at the headquarters of the “Alaba-
ma Expedition” on Shannon Island. The distance from Shannon Island
to the nearest permanent station (fig. 1) is about 1000 kilometers.
218 H. Hansen.
@
{ Shan,
BULLET Exp)
Fig. 1. Meteorological stations in the countries around the northern Atlantic
and the Arctic Ocean, 1909—10.
RED
д —~ de
® = т
KE 71.8 RED
95
z à
ni
©
Fig. 2. September 25th 1909, 8 am.
Meteorological Observations on the Alabama Expedition. 219
Fig. 4. September 27th 1909, 8 am.
220 H. Hansen.
Fig. 6. March 19th 1910, 8 am.
Meteorological Observations on the Alabama Expedition. 221
ee eon
Fig. 8. March 21st 1910, 8 am.
222
H. Hansen.
ss
I
2
en
31450. 8—————
=
Fig. 9. March 22nd 1910, 8 am.
Fig. 10. March 23rd 1910, 8 am.
Meteorological Observations on the Alabama Expedition. 293
The “Alabama Expedition” worked in about the same localities
on the Northeast coast of Greenland as did the “Danmark Expedition”
in the years 1906—1908, and meteorological observations were made
as well on the voyage to Greenland (Shannon Island), as in winter-
quarters on Shannon Island and Bass Rock, and furthermore on sledge-
expeditions across the inland-ice and along the Greenlandic North-
east coast.
The Expedition had however not the same facilities nor instruments
for making meteorological observations as the “Danmark Expedition”
had, nor was any member of the Expedition a trained meteorologist,
who could plan and carry out the daily routine work. The commander
of the Expedition had himself collected the meteorological instruments,
and he planned the observations made during the stay in Greenland.
Instruments.
The Expedition had the following meteorological instruments at
its disposal:
1 Mercury barometer, Adie No. C. 553 (Kew pattern station baro-
meter, with certificate).
1 Aneroid barometer (Ship’s barometer).
1 Aneroid barometer, No. 977, diameter 6 cm, with certificate from
Kew Observatory.
1 Aneroid barometer, diameter 4 cm.
1 Aneroid barograph, (Richard).
4 Station thermometers, mercurial, divided in half degrees.
1 Maximum thermometer, horizontally, divided in whole degrees.
1 Minimum thermometer, divided in whole degrees.
6 Sling thermometers, mercurial, divided in whole degrees.
2 Thermometer screens for placing the station thermometers.
2 Thermographs, (Fuess).
1 Pocket anemometer, (Schalenkreuz, Fuess).
The mercury barometer, the barograph, the station thermometers,
the maximum and minimum thermometers and the thermometer screens,
had been lent to the Expedition by the Danish Meteorological Insti-
tute, the thermographs and the anemometer by the “Danmark Expe-
dition”, while the rest of the instruments were bought at the firm of
CORNELIUS KNUDSEN, Copenhagen.
The corrections on the barometers and thermometers had been
found by comparison with the Normal instruments belonging to the
Danish Meteorological Institute.
Comparisons between the ship’s barometer and instruments belon-
994 | H. Hansen.
ging to the Meteorological Institute were made whenever possible on
the sea voyage to Shannon Island, and while in the ports at Thors-
havn, Reykjavik and Angmagsalik.
After the arrival at Shannon Island repeated comparisons were
made between the mercury barometer and the aneroid barometers during
the whole stay in Greenland in the years 1909—12. After the return
to Copenhagen in 1912, the mercury barometer and the aneroid baro-
meter No. 977 were again compared with the Normalbarometer be-
longing to the Danish Meteorological Institute, and the mercury baro-
meter (Adie No. C. 553) had not changed its error in the interval.
Observers.
Messrs. Ejnar MIKKELSEN, У. Laus and H.C. JØRGENSEN acted
as observers through the whole time, as well at the winterquarters,
as on the different sledge expeditions.
Observations.
All hours of Observations are given in local time.
The pressure of the atmosphere is reduced to 0°C., to sea
level and to gravity at 45° lat. The gravity correction for latitude, C,,
is figured out according to the formula:
h—h,, = h x 0,00259 cos 2 g,
which for ф = 75° 17’ 43” north. lat. (Shannon Island’s North-east
point).
gives C, = + 1.65 mm at 731.38 mm.
and С, = + 1.75 mm at 775.71 mm.
The temperature of the air is always taken on mercury ther-
mometers, and temperatures below — 34°C. are therefore uncertain.
The direction of the wind is given true. All observations on
the sea voyage, during which the direction of the wind is given magnetic,
are later on corrected for the deviation. In the tables are used the
following abbreviations, viz:
N = North
В — Bast
5) — south
W = West
The force of the wind is as a rule estimated and tabled ac-
cording to the 12-divided scale (Beaufort’s scale). On the sledge
expedition made across the inland ice by Captain MIKKELSEN, and
later on along the sea-coast from Danmark’s Fjorden to Skærfjorden,
the velocity of the wind is measured with a pocket-anemometer
and tabled in metres pr. second.
Meteorological Observations on the Alabama Expedition.
bo
BO
1
It is considered gale, when the force of the wind registers 9
or above, according to the scale 0—12.
The amount of cloud observed on the sea voyage to Shannon
Island and on Shannon Island from Sep. Ist 1909—July 31st 1910,
as well as on Lieutenant Laus’s sledge expedition on the inland ice
from April 10th to May 10th 1910, are tabeled according to a scale running
from 0 = cloudless to 4 = overcast. All other cloud-observations are
tabeled according to the customary international scale from 0—10.
The cloud-forms are tabeled according to the international
classification. The following abbreviations are used in the tables:
Ci. = Cirrus
Ci.—St. = Cirro—Stratus
Ci.—Cu. = Cirro—Cumulus
A.—St. = Alto—Stratus
A—Cu. = Alto—Cumulus
St.—Cu. = Strato—Cumulus
Cu — Cumulus
Sir — Sinan
Nb. = Nimbus.
The weather is entered in the tables for amount of cloud with
the international symbols where
stands for Rain
— - Snow
— - Sleet
— - Fog
— - Haze
— - Aurora borealis
Ш 2 * ©
58
The following tables contain:
Table I. Ship observations taken on the sea voyage from Reykjavik
LII
to Angmagsalik in the interval from July 22nd to July 27th 1909.
Furthermore the observations taken on the sea voyage from Ang-
magsalik to Iceland (Patricksfjord), from July 30th to August
4th 1909, and on the sea voyage from Iceland to Shannon Is-
land from August 7th to August 24th 1909.
The observations were made by Lieutenant Laus, and the
hours of observation were: 4a, 8a, 12a, 4p, 8p, 12p. As barometer
was used the ship’s barometer (Aneroid). The temperature of
the air was taken with a metal-cased thermometer, which in
accordance with the instructions given by the Danish Meteorolo-
gical Institute for ship’s observations, was hung in a shaded spot
with free access of air, not subjected to local heating or cooling.
The temperature of the surface water is also found accor-
15
296 H. HANSEN.
ding to instructions from the Meteorological Institute, according
to which a bucket of water is taken onboard, wherein then is
placed the thermometer, which is read after the lapse of a
couple of minutes, in which time the water has repeatedly been
stirred with the thermometer.
The direction of the wind is, as stated above, observed
magnetic, but the directions in the tables have all been corrected
for deviation.
In Table 2 are included all observations from Shannon Island NE
point from Sept. Ist 1909 to July 31st 1910, from December
12th 1910 to April 22nd 1911; furthermore the observations from
the journey along the coast to Skærfjorden from April 23rd to
June 5th 1911 and at last, the observations taken on Shannon
Island and Bass Rock from June 6th 1911 to July 17th 1912.
The observations from Shannon Island are partly taken on the
North-east point of the Island, partly at Cape Philip Broke
(Shannon Island’s SE point). When the Station “Shannon Island”
is given in the table without any further remark, it always stands
for the Shannon Island North-east point.
The position of these three stations are as follows:
|
Station: | М. lat. W. long.
Shannon Island NE point................. ое tg" 1820:
Cape Phihp«Broke ua... ee zer re ee li
PR IDEA ое К ee и ADR
The observations in the interval from September Ist 1909 to July
3156 1910 are all taken by Lieutenants Laus and JORGENSEN and from
December 12th 1910 to July 17th 1912 by Captain MIKKELSEN.
The hours of observation were as arule 8a, 2p and 9p. The pressure
of the atmosphere is—where nothing else is stated — measured with the
mercury barometer. Until March 25th 1910 the barometer was placed
onboard the vessel, but then it was brought on shore and hung in a tent-
house, about 7 metres above sea level.
There are obtained records on the barograph in the following
intervals: September Ist 1909 to July 31st 1910, December 12th 1910
to March 20th 1911, April 10th to April 26th 1911, September 22nd to
October 16th 1911, November 18th 1911 to February 5th 1912, February
13th to April 8th 1912 and from April 28th to July 14th 1912.
All the barometer-records in these different intervals are controlled
through comparison with the record-charts on the barograph.
Meteorological Observations on the Alabama Expedition. 29
=~]
The temperatures from September Ist 1909 to July 31st 1910 were
all read on the station thermometers, placed in thermometer screen.
All other observations of the temperature are made by means of sling
thermometers.
The thermometer screens were of a type used by the Danish Meteoro-
logical Institute (a description is given in “Meteorologisk Aarbog” for
1874) and they were hung on the mast from September Ist 1909 to March
25th 1910, about 1,5 meter above deck. From March 26th to July
31st 1910, the thermometer screens were hung оп the northwest side
of the tent-house, about 1,5 meter above the earth.
The maximum and minimum thermometers were somewhat out
of order at the arrival in Shannon Island and proved to be rather uncer-
tain.
Table 3 contains the observations made by Captain MIKKELSEN
in the interval from May 17th to September 15th 1910 while
on the sledge expedition from Danmark’s Fjord along the outer
coast to Skerfjorden. The readings on the barometer are taken
on an aneroid barometer, No. 977, the temperature is found by
means of sling thermometers and the velocity of the wind by
help of the anemometer. |
In Table 4 are found all observations from the sledge expedition
on the inland ice. On March 24th the sledges were brought up
on the inland ice, and the journey was made on a NNW course.
On April 9th 1910 the two parties separated and Captain Mix-
KELSEN continued on the NNW course across Kong Frederik
den VIII Land to Danmark’s Fjord, which was reached on May
13th 1910. Lieutenant Laub travelled towards the West to Dron-
ning Louise’s Land and began the return-trip on May Ist, follo-
wing about the same route as on the northbound journey.
The pressure of the atmosphere was measured with pocket-
aneroid barometers and the temperature was taken with sling thermo-
meters. The force of the wind was estimated by Laus, while it was
measured on a pocket-anemometer by MIKKELSEN on his journey from
April 15th to May 13th.
For determination of heights by means of barometer observations,
Laplace has given a formula which can be changed to!
Г (1+ 0.00367 в) 7
(1+ 0.378; |
(1+ a cos 2 y) (1 + 0.00239)
| +R]
Z (metres) = 18400 (log B, — log B)
"8. P. Langley: Smithsonian Meteorological Tables, Washington, 1893.
15%
228 H. Hansen.
Where B, = Pressure of the atmosphere on the lowest placed station.
B = Pressure of the atmosphere on the highest placed station.
6 = Mean temperature of the air column between the two
stations.
e = Mean pressure of aqueous vapours in the air column.
b = Mean barometric pressure of the air column.
ф = the latitude of the station.
h, = the height of the lowest placed station.
R = the mean radio of the earth.
If this formula is used for figuring out the elevation on basis of
Captain MIKKELSEN’s and Lieutenant Laus’s observations on the pres-
sure of the atmosphere, it is possible to omit the three last factors
ofthe formula, as these, on account of the high geographical latitude
(above 75°) and the comparatively small elevations here, have no in-
fluence on the ultimate results.
With the 3 last factors out of the reckoning, the formula then
reads as follows:
Z — 18400 (log By —log В) (1 + 0.00367 6) (1 + 0.378 |
In this, the e — the mean pressure of aqueous vapours in the air
column — is unknown, as the vapour pressure was not at all ascertained
during the expedition. Its influence on figuring out the elevations is
however exceedingly small. With a temperature of f. inst. + 20° and
an elevation above the sea level of 1000 metres, the factor |1 + 0.378 =|
would only change the result with 1/, metre, even if the air was saturated
with vapours.
If this factor is then let out of the reckoning all together, the formula
will be reduced to:
Z = 18400 (log В, —log В) (1 + 0.00367 8)
and the elevations found in table 4 are computed according to this.
In order to be able to figure out the elevation of a certain place
according to above simplified formula, it is then necessary to know
the barometer-reading at the spot, B.,
the corresponding barometer-reading, By, at sea level in the vertical
of the spot and
the mean temperature, 9, of the vertical air column.
Are these factors known, the figuring out of the elevation is com-
paratively easy to make. |
For instance:
В = 691.0mm., B, = 765.1 mm., —————~-———_—
Z = 18400 (log 765.1 — log 691.0) (1 ~ 0.08074) = 748 metres.
ID
bo
co
Meteorological Observations on the Alabama Expedition.
9 is here considered as mean of the temperature on the spot, $, and
the corresponding temperature at the permanent station on Shannon
Island, ty.
For finding B,, we have the following material from the permanent
station in Shannon Island; 1) readings on a mercury barometer at 8a,
2p and 9p., 2) barograph-records from the aneroid barograph placed
there, and the pressure of the atmosphere is consequently known at
any moment within the 24 hours.
As however the spots, whose elevation above sea level we are to
figure out, are all to be found from 200 to 600 km NNW of Shannon
Island, the values for B, in the vertical of the different spots will be
somewhat different from the corresponding barometer-readings on Shannon
Island. In order to examine this I have constructed isobarmaps,
computed from observations taken at the permanent meteorological
stations in Greenland, on Iceland and on Shannon Island for the hours
За, 2p and Эр, and I have endeavoured to extend the isobars to the
localities of which the elevation shall be ascertained.
In some cases the isobars can be drawn with a comparatively
great certainty, while in other cases it is not possible even to judge
the direction of the gradient or its value, wherefore in these cases,
I have been compelled to use the barometer-readings from Shannon
Island.
The barometer-reading on the height-stations under debate is of
course also somewhat uncertain, as the readings have all been made
оп ап aneroid barometer. As is well known, these barometers are not so
accurate as mercurial barometers, particularly when there is some disturb-
ance in the air.
The uncertainty in the calculated elevations is largely owing to
the uncertainty in B, and В, while the error in @ in comparison with the
above is quite insignificant.
The results from the stations where observations have been made
for several days indicate, however, that the difference between the
different height-observations on the same spot rarely exceeds 30—40
metres.
In Table 4 are found the observed barometer-readings and tem-
peratures, as well as the values for B, and 6, used for computing the
calculations for the elevation according to the formula found above.
Table 5 contains monthly summaries of observations from Shannon
Island and Bass Rock, covering the interval between September 1909
and July 1912.
The mean pressure of the atmosphere, the mean force of the
wind, and the mean amount of cloud are without correction calculated
as mean of the daily observations. The value for the amount of cloud,
230 H. Hansen.
which from September 1909 to July 1910 were observed after the scale
0—4, is here reduced to the international scale (0—10).
For figuring out the mean temperature, the following formula has
as a rule been used:
2 (8a + 2p) + 5 (9p)
9
In the cases, where observations are made at other hours than
the customary ones, or have been incomplete, other combinations are used.
In Table 6 a comparison is made of the monthly means of ob-
servations as to the pressure of the atmosphere and the temperatures
of the air from North-east Greenland — Danmarks Havn, Shannon
Island and Bass Rock — covering a span of years from 1906—1912.
For the months from January to July, as well as for December
we have now observations from these localities for 5 years, for August
in 3 years and for the months September—November in 4 years.
It must however be remarked, that the figures for August 1906,
July 1908, December 1910 and July 1912 are calculated on basis of ob-
servations in respectively 15, 21, 20 and 17 days, and furthermore,
that the mean of the pressure of the atmosphere for the month of
March to May 1912 are based on respectively 20, 14 and 18 days, and
at last, that the mean temperatures for the months of January to March
1912 are somewhat uncertain, as some rather low temperatures are in-
cluded in this material, which temperatures cannot be determinated
with certainty by means of a mercurial thermometer.
231
Meteorological Observations on the Alabama Expedition.
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