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BAEDEKER'S  GUIDE  BOOKS. 

Austria-Hungary,  including  Dalmatia,  Bosnia,  Bucharest,  Belgrade, 
and  Montenegro.  With  71  Maps,  77  Plans,  and  2  Panoramas.  Eleventh 
edition.    1911 

The  Eastern  Alps,  including  the  Bavarian  Highlands,  Tyrol,  Salzburg, 
Upper  and  Lower  Austria,  Styria,  Carinthia,  and  Carniola.  With 
73  Maps,  16  Plans,  and  11  Panoramas.  Twelfth  edition.    1911  .... 

Belgium  and  Holland,  including  the  Grand-Duchy  of  Luxem- 
bourg.  With  19  Maps  and  45  Plans.    Fifteenth  edition.   1910  .  .  . 

The  Dominion  of  Canada,  with  Newfoundland  and  an  Excursion 
to  Alaska.  With  14  Maps  and  12  Plans.  Fourth  edition.   1922   .  .  . 

Constantinople  and  Asia  Minor,  in  German  only: 

Konstantinopel  und  Kleinasien,  Balkanstaaten,  Archipel,  Cypern. 
Mit  18  Karten  und  65  Planen.    2.  Aufl.    1914 

Czechoslovakia,  see  Austria- Hungary. 

Denmark,  see  Norway,  /Sweden,  and  Denmark. 

Egypt  and  the  Sddan.  With  22  Maps,  85  Plans,  and  55  Vignettes. 
Seventh  edition.    1914 

England,  see  Great  Britain. 

Prance : 

Paris  and  its  Environs,  with  Routes  from  London  to  Paris.  With 
66  Maps  and  Plans.  Nineteenth  edition.    1924 

Northern  France  from  Belgium  and  the  English  Channel  to  the  Loire 
excluding  Paris  and  its  Environs.  With  16  Maps  and  55  Plans. 
Fifth  edition.  1909 

Southern  France  from  the  Loire  to  the  Pyrenees,  Anvergne,  the 
C6vennes,  the  French  Alps,  the  Rhone  Valley,  Provence,  the  French 
Riviera,  and  Corsica.  With  42  Maps,  63  Plans,  and  1  Panorama. 
Sixth  edition.    1914 

Algeria  and  Tunisia,  see  T7ie  Mediterranean. 

Germany: 

Berlin  and  its  Environs.  With  30  Maps  and  Plans.  Sixth  edition. 
1923 

Northern  Germany,  excluding  the  Rhineland.  With  165  Maps  and 
Plans.  Seventeenth  edition.   1925 

Southern  Germany  (Wurtemberg  and  Bavaria).  With  37  Maps  and 
50  Plans.  Twelfth  edition.    1914 

The  Rhine  inclnding  the  Moselle,  the  Volcanic  Eifel,  the  Taunus,  the 
Odenwald,  the  Vosges  Mountains,  the  Black  Forest,  etc.  With  128 
Maps  and  Plans.   Seventeenth  edition.   1911 

Great  Britain.  England,  Wales,  and  Scotland.  With  28  Maps, 
65  Plans,  and  a  Panorama.   Seventh  edition.  1910 


London  and  its  Environs.  With  45  Maps  and  Plans.  Eighteenth  edi- 
tion.   1923 

Greece,  the  Greek  Islands,  and  an  Excursion  to  Crete.  With  16  Maps, 
30  Plans,  and  a  Panorama  of  Athens.  Fourth  edition.  1909 

Holland,  see  Belgium  and  Holland. 

India,  in  German  only: 

Indien,  Ceylon,  Vorderindien,  Birma,  die  malayische  Halbinsel,  Siam, 
Java.  Mit  22  Karten,  33  Planen  und  8  Grnndrissen.  1914 

Italy:  /.  Northern  Italy,  including  Leghorn,  Florence,  Ravenna,  and 
Routes  through  Prance,  Switzerland,  and  Austria.  With  36  Maps, 
45  Plans,  and  a  Panorama.    Fourteenth  edition.  1913 

//.  Central  Italy  and  Rome.  With  19  Maps,  55  Plans  and  Views,  and  the 
Arms  of  the  Popes  since  1417.    Fifteenth  edition.    1909 

///.  Southern  Italy  and  Sicily,  including  Malta,  Sardinia,  Tunis,  and 
Corfu.    With  64  Maps  and  Plans.    Sixteenth  edition.    1912 

Italy  from  the  Alps  to  Naples.  With  25  Maps  und  52  Plans 
and  Sketches.    Second  edition.    1909 

The  Mediterranean.  Seaports  and  Sea  Routes,  including  Madeira, 
the  Canary  Islands,  the  Coast  of  Morocco,  Algeria,  and  Tunisia. 
With  38  Maps  and  49  Plans.   1911     

Norway,  Sweden,  and  Denmark,  with  Excursions  to  Iceland  and 
Spitzberyen.    With  104  Maps  and  Plans.  Tenth  edition.  1912  .  .  . 

Palestine  and  Syria,  including  the  principal  routes  through  Meso- 
potamia and  Babylonia.  With  21  Maps,  56  Plans,  and  a  Panorama 
of  Jerusalem.  Fifth  edition.  1912 

Portugal,  see  Spai?i  and  Portugal. 

Riviera,  see  Southern  France. 

Russia,  with  Teheran,  Port  Arthur,  and  Peking.  With  40  Maps  and 
78  Plans.    1914 

Manual  of  the  Russian  Language,  with  Vocabulary  and  List  of 
Phrases.   1914 

Scotland,  see  Great  Britain. 

Spain  and  Portugal,  with  Excursions  to  Tangier  and  the  Balearic 
Islands.  With  20  Maps  and  59  Plans.  Fourth  edition.  1913 

Sweden,  see  Norivay,  Sweden,  and  Denmark. 

Switzerland,  together  with  Chamonix  and  the  Italian  Lakes.  With 
80  Maps,  21  Plans,  and  14  Panoramas.  Twenty -sixth  edition. 
1922 

Tyrol,  see  The  Eastern  Alps. 

The  United  States,  with  Excursions  to  Mexico,  Cuba,  Porto  Rico 
and  Alaska.  With  33  Maps  and  48  Plans.  Fourth  edition.  1909  .      . 

Wales,  see  Great  Britain. 


THE  MEDITERRANEAN 


' 


THE  MEDITERRANEAN 

SEAPORTS  AND  SEA  ROUTES 

INCLUDING 

MADEIRA,  THE  CANARY  ISLANDS, 

THE  COAST  OF  MOROCCO,  ALGERIA, 

AND  TUNISIA 


HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAVELLERS 

BY 

KARL  BAEDEKER 


With  38  Maps  and  49  Plans 


LEIPZIG:   KARL  BAEDEKER,  PUBLISHER 

LONDON:   T.  FISHER  US  WIN,  1  ADELPHI  TERRACE,  W.O. 
NEW  YORK:  CHARLES  SCRIBNER'S  SONS,  153  FIFTH  AVE. 

1911 

All  Rights  Reserved. 


'Go,  little  book,   God  send  thee  good  passage, 
And  specially  let  this  be  thy  prayere 
Unto  them  all  that  thee  will  read  or  hear, 
Where  thou  art  wrong,  after  their  help  to  call, 
Thee  to  correct  in  any  part  or  all.' 


'■ 


/S^S  46,03 


Aft  IS 


PREFACE. 


The  present  Handbook  to  the  Mediterranean  describes  the 
chief  routes  along  the  Mediterranean  coasts.  In  his  endeavour  to 
unite  within  a  single  volume  the  chief  points  of  interest  in  so  vast 
a  region  the  Editor  has  naturally  been  confronted  by  peculiar 
difficulties.  These  points  are  so  numerous  that  little  space  could 
be  afforded  for  more  subordinate  matters,  so  that  many  details 
have  necessarily  been  omitted.  Again  as  regards  the  selection  of 
routes,  and  of  places  to  be  described,  opinions  frequently  differ. 
The  Editor  ventures,  however,  to  hope  that  on  the  whole  he  has 
satisfied  the  requirements  of  most  of  his  readers.  As  many  of  the 
regions  which  are  here  grouped  historically  and  geographically  f 
have  already  been  treated  of  in  several  of  his  other  Handbooks, 
the  Editor  would  respectfully  refer  the  traveller  to  these  for  fuller 
details  ff.  The  new  subjects  comprise  Madeira  and  the  Canary  Is 
lands,  the  coast  of  Morocco,  and  Algeria  and  Tunisia,  the  materials 
for  describing  which  have  been  collected,  in  the  course  of  much 
travel,  by  several  of  the  Editor's  friends  and  fellow-workers.  The 
chief  Author  of  the  German  edition,  which  appeared  in  1909,  was 
Dr.  F.  Propping,  of  Godesberg  on  the  Rhine,  who  personally  visited 
most  of  the  places  described.  The  present  English  edition  has 
been  prepared  by  the  Editor's  old  friend,  emeritus  Professor  John 
Kirkpatrick,  formerly  of  Edinburgh  University,  who  fifty  years 

f  The  volume  contains  six  separable  Sections.  First:  Introduction; 
From  England  to  the  Mediterranean  by  the  Portuguese  Coast;  Madeira  and 
the  Canary  Islands  (pp.  i-xxxvi  and  1-48). — Second:  Andalusia;  Morocco 
(pp.  49-110).  —  Third:  Sea  Routes  in  the  W.  Mediterranean  (pp.  111-166). — 
Fourth:  Algeria  (pp.  167-818).—  Fifth:  Tunisia  (pp.  319-394).—  Sixth:  Sea 
Routes  in  the  E.  Mediterranean;  the  Black  Sea  (p.  395  to  the  end  of  the 
volume). 

tt  Comp.  for  the  W.  Mediterranean  Baedeker's  'Southern  France', 
'Northern  Italy',  'Central  Italy  and  Rome',  'Southern  Italy,  Sicily,  and 
Sardinia',  'Italy  from  the  Alps  to  Naples',  and  'Spain  and  Portugal';  for 
Trieste  and  Dalmatia,  'Austria-Hungary';  for  the  E.  Mediterranean,  'Egypt', 
.Palestine  and  Syria',  'Greece',  and  'Konstantinopel  und  Eleinasien'  (at 
preaent  in  German  only);  for  the  Black  Sea,  'Russland'  or  'Russie'. 


vi  PREFACE. 

ago  (1861)  translated  the  Handbook  for  the  Rhine,  and  thus  intro- 
duced 'Baedeker's  guidebooks'  to  the  English  public.  In  bringing 
the  information  contained  in  the  new  Mediterranean  volume  up  to 
date  the  Editor  has  received  valuable  aid  from  British  and  United 
States  consuls  and  ministers,  and  from  other  authorities,  who  have 
shown  the  utmost  courtesy  and  willingness  to  assist.  To  all  of 
these  the  Editor  expresses  his  grateful  acknowledgments.  Many 
readers  will  be  interested  also  in  the  geographical  sketch  by  the 
late  Professor  Theobald  Fischer  (d.  1910),  one  of  the  great  au- 
thorities on  the  Mediterranean  coast-lands. 

Special  care  has  been  bestowed  on  the  Maps  and  Plans  with 
which  the  Handbook  is  furnished.  Several  of  these  are  based  on 
materials  hitherto  unpublished,  and  others  have  been  locally  revised 
and  improved  for  the  special  benefit  of  the  Handbook.  In  the  case 
of  Algeria  and  Tunisia  the  French  spelling  has  been  adopted  in 
the  letter-press  as  well  as  in  the  mapsf. 

Hotels.  As  in  all  his  Handbooks  the  Editor  has  taken  the 
utmost  care  to  recommend  none  but  comfortable  and  respectable 
hotels.  From  this,  as  from  all  his  other  Handbooks,  advertisements, 
direct  and  indirect,  are  absolutely  excluded.  Persons  calling  them- 
selves agents  for  Baedeker's  Handbooks  are  impostors  and  should 
be  handed  over  to  the  police. 

As  many  matters  treated  of  in  the  Handbook  are  liable  to  fre- 
quent change  and  as,  in  the  Orient  particularly,  trustworthy  sources 
of  information  are  too  often  lacking,  the  Editor  will  warmly  ap- 
preciate any  communications  with  which  travellers  may  kindly 
favour  him. 

t  Note,  however,  that  in  the  letter-press  the  English  j  is  used  in 
preference  to  the  French  dj  (as  in  jebel,  mountain),  and  that  the  German 
or  Italian  u  is  preferred  to  the  French  ou  or  the  English  oo  (as  in  suk, 
market).  So  too,  as  a  general  rule,  all  the  other  vowel-sounds  in  the 
proper  names  follow  the  Italian  pronunciation. 


CONTENTS. 


Page 

Introduction xiii 

I.  From  England  to  the  Mediterranean  by  the  Portu- 

guese Coast. 
Route 

1.  From  England  via  Oporto  and  Lisbon  to  Gibraltar  or 
Tangier  (Marseilles  and  Genoa) 1 

2.  Lisbon 6 

II.  Madeira  and  the  Canary  Islands. 

3.  Madeira 17 

4.  The  Canary  Islands 28 

HI.  Andalusia. 

5.  Gibraltar 52 

6.  From  Gibraltar  to  Seville ...  56 

7.  Seville 59 

8.  From  Seville  to  Cordova 68 

9.  From  Cordova  via  Bobadilla  to  Granada 72 

10.  Granada 73 

II.  From  Granada  via  Bobadilla  to  Malaga 88 

IV.  Morocco. 

12.  Tangier 98 

13.  From  Tangier  to  Tetuan  (Ceuta)    .     .          102 

14.  From  Tangier  to  Mogador  by  Sea 104 

V.  Sea  Routes  in  the  W.  Mediterranean. 

15.  From  Gibraltar  to  Genoa Ill 

16.  From  Gibraltar  to  Naples 118 

17.  From  (Lisbon)  Tangier,  and  from  Gibraltar,  to  Mar- 
seilles       119 

18.  From  Tangier  and  Cartagena  to  Oran 123 

19.  From  Marseilles  to  Oran 126 

20.  From  Marseilles  to  Algiers,  Bongie,  Philippeville,  and 
Bona 126 

21.  From  Marseilles  to  Tunis 128 


viii  CONTENTS. 

Route  Page 

22.  From  Algiers  to  Tunis  by  Sea 130 

23.  From  Marseilles  to  Naples 132 

24.  From  Genoa  to  Naples 1 34 

25.  From  Genoa  to  Tunis  via  Leghorn  and  Cagliari    .     .     .  142 

26.  From  Naples  to  Tunis  via  Palermo 146 

27.  From  Naples  to  Syracuse  (Malta,  Tunis,  Tripoli)  via 
Messina  and  Catania 154 

VI.  Algeria. 

28.  Oran 175 

29.  From  Oran  to  Tlemcen 185 

30.  Tlemcen 187 

31.  From  Tlemcen  to  Nemours  via  Lalla-Marnia   .  .     .  197 

32.  From  Oran  to  Beni-Ounif  de  Figuig  (Colomb-B6char)  via 
Damesme  and  Perregaux 199 

33.  From  Oran  to  Algiers 206 

34.  Algiers 217 

35.  From  Algiers  to  Tipaza  and  Cherchell 236 

36.  From  Algiers  to  Cape  Matifou  and  to  Aln-Taya  via  Maison- 
CarrSe 247 

37.  From  Algiers  to  Bougie  via  Beni-Mansour 249 

38.  From  Algiers  to  Tizi-Ouzou.    From  Camp-du-Mar6chal 

to  Tigzirt 252 

39.  From  Tizi-Ouzou  via.  Fort-National  to  Maillot  or  Tazmalt  256 

40.  From  Fort-National  via  Azazga  to  Bougie 260 

41.  Bougie 262 

42.  From  Bougie  through  the  Chabet  el-Akra  to  Setif     .     .  265 

43.  From  Algiers  to  Constantino  via  Beni-Mansour,  Setif,  and 
El-Guerrah 269 

44.  From  Constantine  to  Biskra  via  El-Guerrah  and  Batna  274 

45.  From  Batna  via  Lambese  to  Timgad 286 

46.  Constantine 297 

47.  From  Constantine  to  Philippeville 303 

48.  From  Constantine  to  Bona  via  Duvivier 306 

49.  From  Constantine  or  Bona  via  Duvivier  to  Souk-Ahras 
(Tebessa,  Tunis) 312 

50.  From  Souk-Ahras  to  Tebessa    ....  ....  313 

VII.  Tunisia. 

51.  From  (Constantine,  Bona)  Souk-Ahras  to  Tunis    .     .     .  325 

52.  Tunis 329 

53.  Carthage 343 

54.  From  Tunis  to  Bizerta 351 

55.  From  Tunis  to  Dougga  (Le  Kef) 354 

56    From  Tunis  to  Le  Kef  and  KaM-Djerda 358 


CONTENTS.  ix 

Route  Page 

57.  From  Tunis  to  Snsa 363 

58.  From  Snsa  to  Kairwan 370 

59.  From  Snsa  to  Sfax 378 

60.  From  Sfax  to  Metlaoni  via  Gafsa 383 

61.  From  Metlaoni  to  the  Djerid 386 

62.  From  (Sfax)  Gral'ba  to  Djerba  via  Gabes  and  Medenine  388 

Viu.  Sea  Routes  in  the  E.  Mediterranean. 

63.  From  Tnnis  to  Malta  (Syracnse) 396 

64.  From  Tnnis  to  Syracnse  via  Sfax,  Tripoli,  and  Malta     .  404 

65.  From  Tripoli  to  Alexandria  via.  Benghazi  and  Derna  412 

66.  From  Tripoli  to  Constantinople  via  Derna  and  Crete      .  41 5 

67.  From  (Marseilles,  Genoa)  Naples  to  Alexandria  and  Port 
Said 417 

68.  From  Venice  or  Trieste  to  Alexandria  and  Port  Said  via 
Brindisi 418 

69.  Alexandria 431 

70.  Port  Said 436 

71.  From  Alexandria  or  Port  Said  to  Cairo 437 

72.  From  Alexandria  or  Port  Said  to  Beirut  (Smyrna,  Con- 
stantinople) via.  Jaffa 466 

73.  From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem 470 

74.  Beirnt.   Excursion  to  Damascus 481 

75.  From  Beirut  to  Smyrna  (and  Constantinople)  ....  489 

76.  From  Alexandria  to  Athens  and  Smyrna  (and  Constan- 
tinople)     491 

77.  From  (Marseilles,  Genoa)  Naples  to  Athens  (and  Con- 
stantinople) ...          493 

78.  From  Venice  or  Trieste  to  Athens  (and  Constantinople) 

via  Brindisi  and  Patras 496 

79.  Athens 502 

80.  From  Athens  via  Smyrna  to  Constantinople      ....  529 

81.  Constantinople 536 

IX.  The  Black  Sea. 

82.  From  Constantinople  to  Constantza 561 

83.  From  Constantinople  to  Odessa 563 

84.  From  Odessa  to  Batum 568 

85.  From  Batum  to  Constantinople 571 


MAPS. 


Maps. 

(The  Maps  and  Plans  are  oriented  in  the  usual  way,  with  the  North 
at  the  top,  unless  otherwise  indicated.) 

1.  General  Map  of  the  Mediterranean  (1 : 8,250,000)  before  the 
title-page. 

2.  Environs  of  Lisbon  (1 :  250,000),  p.  14. 

3.  Madeira  (1 :  400,000),  p.  17. 

4.  Environs  of  Fnnchal  (1  :  120,000),  p.  21. 

5.  The  Canary  Islands  (1 :  7,500,000),  p.  28. 

6.  Teneriffe  (1 :  450,000),  p.  28. 

7.  Environs  of  Pnerto  Orotava  (1  :  100,000),  p.  28. 

8.  Environs  of  Las  Palmas  (1 :  250,000),  p.  46. 

9.  Andalnsia  and  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar  (1  :  2,750,000),  p.  49. 

10.  Environs  of  Tangier  (1 :  40,000),  p.  98. 

11.  Environs  of  Naples  (1  :  500,000),  p.  141. 

12.  Straits  of  Messina  (1 :  200,000),  p.  155. 

13.  Environs  of  Syracuse  (1 :  50,000),  p.  162. 

14.  Algeria  and  Tunisia  (1 :  8,250,000),  W.  part,  p.  167. 

15.  Environs  of  Oran  (1  :  150,000),  p.  175. 

16.  Environs  of  Tlemcen  (1  :  50,000),  p.  187. 

17.  Environs  of  Blida  (1 :  250,000),  p.  213. 

18.  Nearer  Environs  of  Algiers  (1 :  100,000),  p.  233. 

19.  Remoter  Environs  of  Algiers  (1 :  500,000),  p.  233 

20.  Environs  of  Bougie  (1 :  50,000),  p.  262. 

21.  Environs  of  Biskra  (1  :  100,000),  p.  279. 

22.  Environs  of  Lambese  and  Timgad  (1 :  500,000),  p.  289. 

23.  Environs  of  Philippeville  (1 :  150,000),  p.  304. 

24.  Environs  of  Bona  (1 :  200,000),  p.  309. 

25.  Algeria  and  Tunisia  (1  :  8,250,000),  E.  part,  p.  319. 

26.  Environs  of  Tunis  (1 :  250,000),  p.  338. 

27.  Environs  of  Susa  (1 :  50,000),  p.  366. 

28.  Environs  of  Sfax  (1  :  50,000),  p.  380. 

29.  The  Island  of  Malta  (1 :  320,000),  p.  399. 

30.  Environs  of  Tripoli  in  Barbary  (1  :  80,000),  p.  406. 

31.  The  Lagoons  of  Venice  (1 :  340,100),  p.  419. 

32.  Environs  of  Cairo  (1 :  250,000),  p.  458. 

33.  The  Island  of  Corfu  (1 :  300,000),  p.  497. 

34.  Environs  of  the  Town  of  Corfu  (1 :  60,000),  p.  497. 

35.  Environs  of  Athens  (1 :  150,000),  p.  528. 

36.  Environs  of  Constantinople  (1 :  140,000),  p.  537. 

37.  The  Bosporus  (1 :  200,000),  p.  557. 

38.  Environs  of  Yalta  (1 :  166,000),  p.  569. 


PLANS. 


Plans. 


6 

7 
8 
9 

10, 
11 
19, 
18 
34 

15, 
16. 

17. 
18. 
19. 
20. 
81. 
22. 
23. 
24. 
25. 
26. 


Page 

.  Alexandria  (1:18,000)  431 

.  Algiers  (1 :  20,000)  .  .  217 

,  Athens  (1 :  10,000)  .  .  503 

Beirut,    General  Plan 

(1 :  25,000) 481 

,  Beirut,  Old  Town  (1  : 

10,000) 481 

Biskra  (1 :  12,000)  .  279 
Blida  (1 :  12,000)  ...  213 
Bona  (1  :  15,000)  .  .  309 
Bougie  (1 :  15,000)  .  .  262 
Cairo  (1 :  12,300)  ...  439 
Carthage  (1 :  25,000)  .  343 
Catania  (1 :  16,700) .  .  160 
Constantine  (1 :  14,000)  297 
Constantinople 

(1  :  20,000) 537 

Cordova  (1  :  15,000)  .  68 
Town    of    Corfu    (1  : 

15,000) 497 

Funchal  (1  :  30,000)  .  21 
Genoa  (1 :  10,000)  .  .  113 
Gibraltar  (1 :  25,000)  .  53 
Granada  (1 :  8700)  .  73 
Jerusalem  (1  :  8350)  .  471 
Kairwan  (1 :  12,000)  .  372 
Lisbon  (1 :  15,000)  .  .  7 
Malaga  (1  :  13,000)  .  .  89 
Marseilles  (1 :  14,000)  119 
Naples  (1  :  20,000)  .  .  135 


27, 
28, 
29. 
30. 
31, 

32, 

33. 

34. 

35. 

36. 
37. 
38. 
39. 
40. 
41. 
42. 
43. 
44. 
45. 

46. 
47. 
48. 
49. 


Page 
Odessa  (1  :  35,000)  .  565 
Oran  (1 :  18,000)  ...  175 
Palermo  (1 :  13,000)  .  147 
Las  Palmas  (1:15,000)  44 
Philippeville 

(1  :  15,000) 304 

Port  Said,  Harbour  (1 : 

50,000) 437 

Port  Said,   Town   (1  : 

25,000) 437 

Puerto  de  la  Luz  and 
Las  Palmas  (1:60,000)     46 
Santa  Cruz  de  Tenerife 

(1:25,000) 33 

Seville  (1 :  10,000)  .  .  59 
Sfax  (1 :  14,000)  ...  380 
Smyrna  (1 :  18,000) .  .  531 
Susa  (1 :  12,000)  ...  366 
Tangier  (1  :  8000)  .  .  98 
Timgad  (1  :  6000) ...  289 
Tlemcen  (1 :  12,000)  .  187 
Trebizond  (1 :  30,000)  573 
Trieste  (1 :  16,700)  .  .  425 
Tripoli  in  Barbary  (1  : 

12,500) 406 

Tunis  (1 :  16,000) ...  329 
Valletta  (1  :  64,000)  .  399 
Venice  (1  :  12,500)  .  .  419 
Yalta  (1 :  25,200) ...  569 


Abbreviations. 


Hot.,  Hot.  =  hotel. 

Alb.  =  albergo  (hotel). 

Restaur.  =  restaurant. 

R.  =  room  with  one  bed,  usually 
incl.  light  and  attendance. 

B.  =  breakfast  (coffee,  etc.). 

d6j.  =  dejeuner,  hot  lunch. 

D.  =  dinner. 

pens.  =  pension,  board  incl.  R.  un- 
less contrary  stated. 

rfmts.  =  refreshments. 

omn.  =  omnibus. 


N.,  S.,  E.,  "W.  —  north,  northern, 
south,  southern,  etc. 

r.  =  right,   1.  =  left. 

M.  =  mile;  sq.  M.  =  square  mile; 
ft.  =  foot,  feet;  yd.  =  yard,  etc. 

min.  =  minute;  hr.  =  hour. 

R.  =  route.  PI.  =  plan. 

dr.,  1.  =  drachme,  lepta. 

fr.,  c.  =  franc,  centime;  Ital.  lira, 
centesimo. 

K,  h  =  krone,  heller  (Austrian  cur- 
rency). 


BIBLIOGRAPHY. 


L,  s.,  d.  =  pound  sterling,  shilling, 

pence,    g.  =  guinea, 
mej.  =  mejidieh. 
p.,  o.  =  peseta,  centimo. 
pias.,  mill.  =  piastre,  millieme. 


s.  pias.  =  silver  piastre. 

rs.  =  reis  (plur.  or  real ;  comp.  p.  6) 

rotib.,  cop.  =  rouble,  copeck. 

comp.  s=  compare. 

adm.  =  admission,  admittance. 


Asterisks  (*)  denote  objects  of  special  interest  and  hotels  that  are 
believed  to  be  worthy  of  special  commendation. 

The  number  of  ft.  (1  Engl.  ft.  =  0.3048  metre ;  1  metre  =  3.281  Fngl.  ft. 
or  about  3  ft.  3V8  'n0  given  after  the  name  of  a  place  shows  its  height 
above  the  sea-level. 

The  number  of  M.  (1  Engl,  mile  =  1.6093  kilometres;  1  kilometre  = 
0.6214  M.)  placed  before  the  principal  places  of  a  route  indicates  their 
distance  from  the  starting-point  of  the  route. 


International  Hotel  Telegraphic  Code. 

The  international  association  of  hotel-keepers  has  agreed  on  the  follow- 
ing code:  Alba,  room  with  single  bed;  albaduo,  room  with  double  bed; 
arab,  room  with  two  beds;  abec,  room  with  three  beds;  belab,  two  rooms 
and  two  beds;  birac,  two  rooms  and  three  beds;  bonad,  two  rooms  and 
four  beds;  ciroc,  three  rooms  and  three  beds;  carid,  three  rooms  and  four 
beds;  calde,  three  rooms  and  five  beds;  caduf,  three  rooms  and  six  beds; 
casag,  three  rooms  and  seven  beds;  danid,  four  rooms  and  four  beds; 
dalme,  four  rooms  and  five  beds ;  danof,  four  rooms  and  six  beds ;  dalag, 
four  rooms  and  seven  beds;  dirich,  four  rooms  and  eight  beds;  durbi, 
four  rooms  and  nine  beds;  kind,  child's  bed;  sal,  saloon,  private  sitting- 
room:  bat,  private  bathroom;  serv,  servant's  room.  The  class  of  room 
may  be  indicated  by  best,  bon,  or  plain.  Day  and  hour  of  arrival  must 
be  notified  (granmatin  is  midnight  to  7  a.m.,  matin  is  7-12,  sera  12-7, 
and  gransera  7  to  midnight),  and  also  duration  of  stay  (pass  means  one 
night,  stop  means  several  days,  but  is  not  binding).  Name  and  address 
of  applicant  must  be  given;  if  prevented  from  coming,  'ca?icel',  with  his 
signature,  suffices. 


Bibliography. 

'Mediterranean  Winter  Besorts'  by  E.  Reynolds-Ball  (6th  ed.,  London, 
1908;  price  6s.)  although  far  from  exhaustive,  contains  much  useful  and 
practical  information.  The  art  of  the  Orient  is  admirably  treated  of  in 
the  'Manuel  d' Art  Musulman'  by  H.  Saladin  and  G.  Migeon  (Paris,  1907 ; 
30  fr.).  Among  excellent  German  books  are  Theob.  Fischer's  'Mittelmeer- 
bilder'  (2  vols.,  Leipzig,  1906,  1908;  each  6  marks),  and  A.  Philippson's 
'Mittelmeergebiet'  (Leipzig,  1907 ;  7  marks). 

Books  on  Algeria,  see  p.  175;  on  Athens,  see  p.  508;  on  Cairo,  see 
p.  444;  on  the  Canary  Islands,  see  p.  32;  on  Cartnage,  see  p.  343;  on 
Constantinople,  see  p.  542;  on  Cordova,  see  p.  69;  on  Granada  and  the 
Alhambra,  see  pp.  f"5,  80;  on  Jerusalem,  see  p.  473;  on  Madeira,  see  p.  20; 
on  Morocco,  see  pp.  97,  98;  on  Seville,  see  p.  61;  on  Tebessa,  seep.  315; 
on  Timgad,  see  p.  289;  on  Tunisia,  see  p.  325. 


INTRODUCTION. 


Page 

L 

Season  and  Plan  of  Tour.    Health 

xiii 

II. 

Money,  Passport,  Cnstom  House     .               .     . 

.   xvi 

III. 

Steamboats    ....                              .     . 

.     XV11 

IV. 

Intercourse  with  Orientals              

The  Mediterranean  Sea   and   adjoining  Lands, 

a 

geographical  Sketch  by  Theobald  Fischer  .     . 

.    xxvii 

L  Season  and  Plan  of  Tour.    Health. 

Season  of  Toub.  The  mildness  of  the  climate  (p.  xxxv)  makes 
travelling  pleasant  in  the  Mediterranean  lands  at  almost  any  season. 
Even  in  the  height  of  summer  travellers  who  can  stand  a  little 
heat  will  find  residence  in  many  of  the  islands  and  sea-side  resorts 
quite  agreeable.  Winter  begins  here  much  later  and  ends  much 
earlier  than  in  Northern  or  Central  Europe,  but  until  the  end  of 
March  few  regions  are  quite  exempt  from  wintry  days  and  falls 
of  snow.  March  is  considered  also  the  windiest  month  in  the  year 
on  the  Mediterranean. 

For  the  Portuguese  coast,  Andalusia,  and  Northern  Morocco 
(Tangier)  the  best  seasons  are  from  the  middle  of  March  to  the 
middle  of  May  and  the  months  of  October  and  November.  Granada, 
which  lies  high,  is  suitable  for  a  prolonged  stay  from  April  till 
the  middle  of  June.  Seville  and  Cordova  are  often  uncomfortably 
cold  in  December  and  January  owing  to  lack  of  heating  appliances. 
At  Lisbon  and  Tangier  winter  is  the  season  of  the  fertilizing  rains, 
which  often  last  till  the  middle  of  March.  With  regard  to  the  best 
season  for  Madeira  and  the  Canary  Islands,  see  pp.  19,  32. 

The  weather  is  generally  bright  and  genial  in  Algeria,  Tunisia, 
and  Tripolitania  in  late  autumn,  till  the  end  of  November,  and 
also  in  March  and  April,  though  less  settled.  Winter  is  a  dry 
season  only  on  the  E.  coast  of  Tunisia  and  in  the  Sahara,  but  is 
sometimes  cool  and  windy  (see  also  pp.  170,  172,  321).  It  is  still 
hot  in  October  in  Sicily,  in  Barbary,  and  in  Egypt,  where  the 
sirocco  (p.  321)  is  specially  disagreeable  in  the  early  autumn, 
while  health  is  endangered  by  malaria  (p.  xvi). 


xiv  PLAN  OF  TOUR. 

Of  all  the  Mediterranean  regions  Egypt  alone  offers  a  dry, 
settled,  and  genial  climate  in  winter.  The  traveller  on  the  Eastern 
Mediterranean  who  wishes  to  avoid  extremes  of  cold  and  heat 
should  make  his  first  stay  at  Cairo  in  January  or  February,  start 
for  the  Syrian  coast  at  the  end  of  February  or  early  in  March, 
proceed  to  Palestine  and  Damascus  after  March  has  commenced, 
and  visit  Asia  Minor  and  Greece  in  April,  and  Constantinople  and 
the  Black  Sea  in  May.  In  autumn,  from  the  end  of  September  on- 
wards, the  above  order  should  be  reversed. 

Plan  op  Touk.  The  traveller  is  advised  to  draw  up  a  careful 
programme  of  his  tour  before  starting.  All  the  places  described 
in  the  Handbook  may  be  reached  by  steamer,  or  partly  overland, 
at  any  time  of  the  year,  but  during  the  winter  season  (from  about 
the  end  of  October  to  the  middle  of  May)  much  greater  facilities 
are  offered  by  excursion-steamers  (see  pp.  xviii,  1,  2),  circular 
tickets,  and  combined  tickets.  American  travellers  may  sail  direct 
from  New  York  or  Boston  to  some  of  the  Mediterranean  ports  (see 
p.  xviii).  Travellers  from  Great  Britain  may  start  from  London, 
Liverpool,  Southampton,  or  Dover,  or  if  they  dread  a  long  sea- 
voyage  may  proceed  overland  to  Marseilles,  to  Genoa,  to  Naples,  to 
Brindisi,  to  Venice,  or  to  Trieste  (comp.  p.  xxiv),  and  begin  their 
Mediterranean  tour  from  one  of  these  poinls.  Some  may  prefer  the 
overland  route  to  Spain  and  Gibraltar,  while  others  again  may  find 
it  more  convenient  to  travel  all  the  way  to  Constantinople  (Orient 
Express),  to  Constantza  (Ostend -Vienna  Express),  or  to  Odessa 
(via  Vienna  and  Cracow)  by  railway,  and  thence  explore  the  Med- 
iterranean from  east  to  west.  The  railway  routes  will  be  found  in 
'Bradshaw's  Continental  Railway  Guide'  or  in  the  German  'Reichs- 
kursbuch'.  For  the  'trains  de  luxe'  services  tickets  must  be  obtained 
from  the  International  Sleeping  Car  Co.  (London,  20  Cockspur  St., 
S.W.;  Paris,  3  Place  de  l'Opera;  New  York,  281  Fifth  Ave.; 
Berlin,  69  Unter  den  Linden).  For  the  sea-routes,  see  p.  xvii ;  for 
particulars  application  should  be  made  to  the  various  companies 
or  their  handbooks  consulted.  Excursion,  circular,  and  combined 
tickets  are  issued  by  Messrs.  Thos.  Cook  &  Son,  Ludgate  Circus, 
and  by  other  tourist-agents.  It  may  be  noted  here  that  the  'pleasure- 
cruises'  organized  by  many  of  the  companies  offer  great  attractions 
at  moderate  cost,  but  at  the  almost  entire  sacrifice  of  personal 
independence,  while  the  fellow-passengers  with  whom  one  is  assoc- 
iated for  weeks  may  not  always  be  congenial. 

As  a  general  rule  it  is  pleasanter  and  less  expensive  to  travel 
with  one  or  more  companions  than  alone.  Apart  from  hotel  charges 
and  railway  and  steamboat  fares,  the  cost  for  two  or  three  persons 
is  often  no  greater  than  for  one.  Moreover,  when  off  the  beaten 
track  the  traveller  thus  escapes  from  monotonous  and  monosyllabic 
conversation  with  native  guides  or  drivers  (comp.  pp.  xxv,  xxvi), 


HEALTH  xv 

and  in  case  of  illness  or  accident  he  is  far  more  certain  of  obtaining 
assistance  and  relief. 

The  most  nsefnl  language  in  most  parts  of  the  Mediterranean 
is  French.  In  Portugal,  Madeira,  and  the  Canary  Islands  English 
is  much  spoken,  in  Egypt  it  is  the  leading  language.  Italian  is 
very  useful  in  Tunisia,  on  the  coast  of  Tripolitania  and  Barca,  in 
Malta,  throughout  the  Levant,  in  Greece,  and  at  Constantinople. 
On  the  other  hand  a  slight  knowledge  of  Arabic  will  be  found  most 
useful  throughout  the  whole  of  N.  Africa,  from  Morocco  to  Egypt, 
and  in  Palestine  and  Syria. 

Some  Hints  on  Health  may  be  of  advantage  to  the  inexper- 
ienced traveller  from  the  north.  As  a  rule  an  overcoat  or  extra 
wraps  should  be  put  on  at  sundown,  though  they  may  often  be 
dispensed  with  an  hour  or  two  later.  When  heated  with  walking 
the  traveller  should  not  rest  in  the  shade.  In  hot  climates  like 
those  of  Egypt  and  the  Sahara  he  should  never  remove  his  pith- 
helmet  or  other  headgear  in  the  sun.  Grey  spectacles  or  grey 
veils  shield  the  eyes  alike  from  the  glare  of  the  sun  and  from  dust. 
Sunshades  also  are  very  desirable  in  hot  weather.  As  a  rule  it  is 
advisable  to  stay  within  doors  during  the  heat  of  the  day.  On  the 
other  hand  many  places  on  the  Mediterranean  are  cold  in  winter, 
Lower  Egypt  and  Cairo  being  no  exceptions.  Steamboat  passengers, 
too,  will  generally  find  warm  clothing  very  desirable  between 
October  and  the  middle  of  May.  An  extra  coat  or  shawl  should 
be  donned  in  museums,  churches,  mosques,  and  other  buildings 
with  stone  pavement,  as  the  air  is  often  very  chilly. 

When  engaging  rooms  visitors  should  insist  on  a  southern  aspect, 
which  is  almost  essential  for  the  delicate  and  highly  desirable  for 
the  robust.  In  every  case,  especially  if  the  rooms  do  not  face  due 
south,  they  should  have  a  fireplace  or  else  central  heating.  In  the 
Mediterranean  regions,  where  many  of  the  plainer  hotels  have  stone 
or  brick  floors,  carpets  are  essential  to  comfort. 

With  regard  to  diet  also  a  few  general  hints  may  be  serviceable. 
Oysters,  fish,  salads,  and  tinned  meats  should  be  absolutely  avoided. 
Raw  fruit,  except  perhaps  oranges  and  grapes,  should  be  partaken 
of  very  sparingly.  Ices  and  iced  drinks  also  are  apt  to  be  upset- 
ting. The  contents  of  siphons,  lemonade,  and  other  'refreshing 
beverages'  are  not  unfrequently  composed  of  polluted  water.  The 
safest  liquids  are  boiled  water,  natural  mineral  waters,  tea,  coffee, 
good  red  wine,  and,  in  moderation,  sound  English  or  German  beer. 
Fairly  good  cognac  or  even  whiskey  may  be  obtained  almost  every- 
where, but  for  the  time-honoured  'soda'  or  'potash'  it  is  safer  to 
substitute  boiled  or  mineral  water. 

Colds,  errors  in  diet,  malaria,  and  over-exertion  are  the  chief 
sources  of  the  sharp  attacks  of  illness  to  which  even  the  hardiest 
travellers  from  the  north  are  liable  in  the  'sunny  south'.   Sunstroke 


xvl  MONEY. 

is  another  danger.  Against  all  these  the  traveller  requires  to  be 
more  on  his  guard  than  at  home,  where  his  nerves  and  his  digest- 
ion are  much  less  liable  to  be  overtaxed.  Care  and  moderation  in 
sight-seeing  and  touring  are  therefore  hardly  less  important  than 
attention  to  diet. 

Before  the  journey  is  begun  a  supply  of  a  few  simple  remedies 
(see  below)  may  be  prepared  with  the  advice  of  the  traveller's 
physician.  In  cases  of  serious  illness  one  of  the  properly  qualified 
doctors  mentioned  in  the  text  should  be  consulted. 

Diarrhoea,  which  may  develop  into  dysentery,  one  of  the  commonest 
complaints,  generally  results  from  catching  cold  or  from  eating  unwhole- 
some food.  The  patient  should  first  take  a  slight  aperient  and  afterwards 
several  doses  of  bismuth.  The  diet  should  be  arrowroot  (which  should 
always  accompany  the  traveller),  rice  or  some  other  farinaceous  food,  and 
milk;  fruit,  meat,  fatty  substances,  and  alcohol  should  be  avoided.  In 
obstinate  cases  a  change  of  climate  is  sometimes  the  only  remedy. 

Sprains  are  best  treated  with  cold  compresses;  the  injured  part  should 
be  tightly  bandaged  and  given  perfect  rest.  In  the  case  of  a  snake  bite 
or  scorpion  sting  the  wound  should  be  immediately  treated  with  ammonia, 
or  better  still,  cauterized.  Sunstroke  is  not  common  in  winter,  but  may 
easily  occur  as  late  as  November  or  as  early  as  April.  The  usual  remedies 
are  rest  and  shade;  cold  appliances  are  used  for  the  head  and  neck;  in 
case  of  high  temperature  these  should  be  iced.  The  best  protection  for 
the  head  is  either  a  pith-helmet,  or  a  tall  perforated  straw-hat,  with 
several  folds  of  gauze  round  it  and  hanging  down  over  the  back  of  the 
neck.  When  the  eyes  are  irritated  with  glare  or  dust  frequent  washing 
with  a  weak  boracic  or  zinc  lotion  affords  relief  (comp.  also  p.  xv). 

Lastly  a  few  simple  and  well-known  remedies,  most  of  which  may  be 
obtained  in  a  tabloid  form,  may  be  mentioned  for  other  common  ailments : 
cascara  sagrada,  castor-oil,  'Tamar  Indien',  or  Epsom  salts  for  constipation; 
a  zinc  or  starch  dusting-powder  for  chafed  sores  due  to  riding;  tincture  of 
arnica,  or  Elliman's  embrocation,  antiseptic  wool,  collodion,  and  sticking- 
plaster,  for  bruises  and  wounds ;  ammonia  (sal-ammoniac)  or  other  antidote 
(inuscatol)  to  stings  or  bites;  disinfectants,  carbolic  acid,  insect-powder; 
chlorodyne  for  neuralgia ;  quinine  for  cases  of  fever.  Fever,  be  it  noted, 
especially  in  malarious  regions  (Sardinia,  Sicily,  Algeria,  Tunisia,  Greece) 
is  propagated  by  mosquitoes,  especially  by  the  female  of  the  Anopheles 
Claviger.  Light  curtains  round  the  beds  should  therefore  be  used  to  ward 
off  the  attacks  of  these  troublesome  insects.  At  dusk,  and  at  night 
when  the  room  is  lighted,  the  windows  should  always  be  carefully  closed. 
"When  a  bite  has  been  received  the  inflamed  part  should  be  at  once  rubbed 
with  ammonia. 

It  should,  however,  be  added,  in  order  to  reassure  the  timid  or  nerv- 
ous traveller,  that  few  of  these  elaborate  precautions  are  necessary  ex- 
cept for  enterprising  explorers  who  often  leave  the  beaten  track  or  whose 
tour  extends  beyond  the  usual  winter  season. 


IE.  Money,  Passport,  Custom  House. 

Money.  A  small  sum  of  money  to  start  with  shonld  be  taken 
in  English  or  French  gold,  but  large  sums  should  always  be  carried 
in  the  form  of  circular  notes,  care  being  observed  to  keep  the  notes 
and  the  'letter  of  indication'  quite  separate.  These  notes  are  issued 
by  the  London  and  the  Scottish  banks  and  by  Messrs.  Thos.  Cook 


STEAMBOATS.  xvii 

&  Son  (Ludgate  Circus).  The  cheques  issued  by  the  American 
Express  Companies,  by  the  American  Bankers  Association,  and  by 
the  International  Mercantile  Marine  Co.  are  also  convenient.  Wher- 
ever the  traveller  lands  he  will  find  an  ample  supply  of  the  small 
change  of  the  country  very  needful. 

Passports  are  not  absolutely  necessary,  except  in  Turkey  and 
in  Russia;  but  consuls,  and  sometimes  bankers,  require  more  con- 
vincing proof  of  identity  than  a  visiting-card.  Passports  must  be 
Bhown  at  the  post-offices  also  in  order  to  obtain  delivery  of  re- 
gistered letters. 

Passports  may  be  procured  in  England  direct  from  the  Passport  De- 
partment of  the  Foreign  Office,  Whitehall  (fee  2  s.),  or  through  any 
tourist-agent.  —  In  the  United  States  they  are  obtained  from  the  Bureau 
of  Citizenship,  State  Department,  Washington,  D.C.  —  Travellers  may 
generally  get  their  passports  vise's  for  Turkey  or  Russia  through  one  of 
the  steamboat-companies  or  by  applying  to  their  consulate  at  one  of  the 
chief  seaports,  if  they  have  omitted  to  take  this  step  before  leaving  home. 

The  Custom  House  Examination  at  the  various  seaports  and 
frontiers  is  seldom  very  rigorous;  but  the  traveller  should  be  care- 
ful to  declare  every  new  article  not  intended  for  personal  use;  and 
he  should  note  particularly  that  cigars,  tobacco,  and  cigarettes, 
weapons  and  ammunition  (the  import  of  the  last  four  articles  being 
entirely  prohibited  in  Turkey),  playing-cards,  matches,  etc.  are 
liable  to  a  heavy  duty  almost  everywhere.  These  should  therefore 
be  carried  in  very  small  quantities  or  dispensed  with  altogether. 
It  is  rarely  worth  while  carrying  large  supplies  of  any  dutiable 
article,  as  the  formalities  are  tedious  and  the  expenses  heavy. 

In  Turkey  a  second  custom-house  examination  of  luggage  takes 
place  when  the  traveller  leaves  the  country,  a  small  duty  being 
levied  on  exports,  while  the  export  of  antiques  without  the  au- 
thority of  government  is  forbidden.  In  Spain,  Italy,  and  Greece 
also  permission  must  be  obtained  to  carry  away  works  of  art.  Per- 
sons who  have  made  large  purchases,  or  have  a  superfluity  of 
baggage  to  send  home,  had  better  employ  a  goods-agent. 


III.  Steamboats. 

All  the  leading  steamboat-companies  are  mentioned  in  the  Hand- 
book in  connection  with  the  different  routes.  The  great  Oriental, 
Australian,  and  other  liners,  of  5-12,000  tons'  burden  and  upwards, 
touch  at  very  few  Mediterranean  ports  (Gibraltar,  Marseilles,  Genoa, 
Naples,  Port  Said).  Travellers  desirous  of  visiting  the  Portuguese 
coast,  Madeira  and  the  Canary  Islands,  Algiers,  Sardinia,  Sicily, 
Tunisia,  Athens,  Constantinople,  and  many  other  places  of  interest 
must  generally  be  content  with  smaller  and  often  very  inferior 
vessels.  The  sections  of  the  following  brief  summary  of  the  chief 
lines  correspond  with  those  into  which  the  Handbook  is  divided. 

Baedeker's  Mediterranean.  b 


xviii  STEAMBOATS. 

From  the  United  States  to  the  Mediterranean. —  White  Star  Line. 
From  Boston  about  every  three  weeks  to  Gibraltar,  Algiers,  Naples,  and 
Genoa,  in  14-15  days.  From  New  York  at  irregular  intervals  to  Gibraltar, 
Naples,  and  Genoa,  in  15-16  days.  From  Genoa  via  Naples  to  New  York 
or  Boston  at  irregular  intervals.  Fares:  1st  cl.  from  New  York  to  Gibral- 
tar, Genoa,  or  Naples,  from  16Z.,  according  to  steamer;  from  Boston  to 
Gibraltar,  Algiers,  Genoa,  or  Naples,  from  16?.  10s.;  from  New  York  to 
Villefranche,  from  19Z.  10s. ;  2nd  cl.  1SZ. 

Hamburg-American  Line.  From  New  York  at  irregular  intervals  to 
Gibraltar,  Algiers,  Naples  (or  Palermo),  and  Genoa,  in  13  days,  and  vico 
versa.    Fares:  1st  cl.  from  111.  10s.,  2nd  cl.  13Z. 

North  German  Lloyd  Line.  From  New  York  on  most  Sat.  to  Gibral- 
tar, Algiers  (not  in  summer),  Naples,  and  Genoa,  in  13  days,  returning 
on  most  Thursdays.    Fares:  1st  cl.  from  $  87V2>  2nd  cl.  from  $65. 

Cunard  Line.  From  New  York  at  irregular  intervals  to  Gibraltar, 
Genoa,  Naples,  Trieste,  and  Fiume,  in  about  20  days,  returning  via  Palermo, 
Naples,  and  Gibraltar.  Fares  to  Trieste  or  Fiume,  1st  cl.  from  16L  10s.; 
to  Gibraltar,  Genoa,  or  Naples  from  lil.  10s. ;  2nd  cl.  fares  from  122. 

Among  the  regular  pleasure -cruises  from  the  United  States  to  the 
Mediterranean  may  be  mentioned  those  from  Boston  organized  by  the 
Bureau  of  University  Travel;  for  excursion-steamers  from  England  to 
the  Mediterranean,  see  pp.  1,  2. 

(1).  Portuguese  Coast  (R.  1). 

Pacific  Line  from  Liverpool  (31  James  St.)  fortnightly,  for  La 
Rochelle-Pallice  (for  Bordeaux),  Cormina,Vigo,  Leixoes  (for  Oporto), 
Lisbon,  and  St.  Vincent  (Cape  Verde),  and  thence  to  S.  America. 
Passengers  for  Madeira,  the  Canary  Islands,  and  the  Mediterranean 
must  of  course  tranship  at  Lisbon  or  St.  Vincent. 

Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Co.,  see  p.  xix. 

Nederland  Royal  Mail  Steamers  (London  office,  2  King 
William  St.,  E.  C.)  and  Rotterdam  Lloyd,  both  fortnightly  from 
Southampton  to  Lisbon,  Tangier,  etc. 

Yeoward  Bros.'  Line,  see  p.  xix. 

Hall  Line,  see  p.  xx. 

Booth  Line  thrice  monthly  from  Liverpool  (office  in  the  Tower 
Building)  to  Havre,  Vigo,  Leixoes  (for  Oporto),  Lisbon,  and  Madeira. 

Ellerman  Line  weekly  from  Liverpool  to  Lisbon  and  Oporto. 

Peninsular  &  Oriental  Co.,  see  p.  xx. 

German  East  African  Line  (London  office,  14  St.  Mary  Axe, 
E.C.)  once  every  three  weeks  from  Southampton  to  Lisbon,  Tangier, 
Marseilles,  Naples,  etc. 

Hamburg  -  American  Line  (London  office,  22  Cockspur  St., 
S.W.)  and  Hamburg  &  South  American  Co.  several  times  monthly 
from  Southampton,  calling  occasionally  at  Lisbon. 

Royal  Holland  Lloyd  monthly  from  Dover  to  Boulogne,  Co- 
runna,  Vigo,  Lisbon,  etc. 

Compania  Trasatldntica  (Philippines  Line)  monthly  from 
Liverpool  to  Corumia,  Vigo,  Lisbon,  Cadiz,  etc. 


STEAMBOATS.  xix 

(2).  Madeira  and  Canary  Islands  (It It.  3,  4). 

Union  Castle  Line  (London  office,  3  Fenchurch  St.,  E.C.) 
weekly  from  Southampton  to  Madeira;  also  fortnightly  from  Lon- 
don and  Southampton  touching  alternately  at  Las  Palmas  and  Ten- 
eriffe;  also  summer  tours  to  Madeira,  Las  Palmas,  and  Teneriffe. 

Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Co.  (London  office,  18  Moorgate  St., 
E.C.)  fortnightly  from  Southampton  to  Vigo,  Lisbon,  and  Madeira; 
also  round  voyages  from  London,  see  p.  sx. 

Peninsular  &  Oriental  Branch  Service  monthly  from  London 
(office,  3  East  India  Ave.,  E.C.)  to  Las  Palmas. 

Booth  Line,  see  p.  xviii. 

Bucknall  Line  monthly  from  London  (office,  23  Leadenhall  St., 
E.  C.)  to  Teneriffe. 

Aberdeen  (TJiompson's)  Line  monthly  from  London  (office,  7 
Billiter  Square,  E.  C.)  and  Plymouth  to  Teneriffe. 

Aberdeen  (Rcnnie's)  Line  about  once  every  ten  days  from 
London  (office,  4  East  India  Ave.,  E.C.)  to  Las  Palmas  and  Teneriffe 
alternately. 

German  East  African  Line  (London  office,  see  p.  xviii)  once 
every  three  weeks  from  Southampton  for  Las  Palmas  and  Teneriffe. 

Woermann  Line  monthly  from  Dover  to  Las  Talmas  and 
Teneriffe. 

Xcw  Zealand  Line  (London  office,  138  Leadenhall  St.,  E.C.) 
and  Shaw,  Savill,  &  Albion  Line  (London  office,  34  Leadenhall 
St.,  E.  C),  each  monthly  from  London  and  Plymouth  to  Teneriffe. 

Yeoward  Bros.  Line  weekly  from  Liverpool  (office,  27  Stanley 
St.)  to  Lisbon,  Teneriffe,  and  Grand  Canary,  calling  on  alternate 
voyages  at  Madeira. 

Federal,  Houlder,  &  Shire  Lines  fortnightly  from  Liverpool, 
calling  at  Madeira,  Las  Palmas,  or  Teneriffe. 

Natal  Line  fortnightly  from  London  (office,  14  St.  Mary  Axe, 
E.C.)  to  Las  Palmas. 

Empreza  Nacional  de  Naveyagdo  twice  monthly,  and  Em- 
preza Insulana  once  monthly  from  Lisbon  to  Madeira. 

(3).  Gibraltar  and  Andalusia  (ER.  1,  5,  6b,  11). 

Peninsular  &  Oriental  Co.  once  weekly  from  London  (office, 
122  Leadenhall  St.,  E.C.)  to  Gibraltar,  etc.    Comp.  also  p.  xx. 

Orient  Royal  Line  fortnightly  from  Loudon  (office,  5  Fenchurch 
St.,  E.C.)  to  Gibraltar,  etc. 

North  German  Lloyd  fortnightly  from  Southampton  (London 
office,  26  Cockspur  St.,  S.W.). 

Anchor  Line  almost  weekly  from  Liverpool  (office,  17  Water  St.) 
or  Glasgow  (Anchor  Line  Buildings)  to  Gibraltar. 

b* 


xx  STEAMBOATS. 

Hall  Line  weekly  from  London  (office,  31  Crutched  Friars,  E.C.) 
to  Lisbon,  Gibraltar,  Malaga,  and  Cadiz. 

Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Co.,  see  below. 

Moss  Line  fortnightly  (office,  31  James  St.)  and  Papayanni 
Line  (office,  22  Water  St.)  occasionally  from  Liverpool  to  Gibraltar. 

Vapores  Correos  de  Africa  from  Algeciras  to  Tangier,  Cadiz, 
and  Ceuta. 

(4).  Morocco  (RR.  13,  14). 

Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Co.  fortnightly  from  London  (office, 
see  p.  xix)  to  Gibraltar,  Tangier,  etc.,  returning  via  Las  Palmas, 
Teneriife,  and  Madeira. 

Nederland  Royal  Mail  and  Rotterdam  Lloyd,  see  p.  xviii. 

German  East  African  Line,  see  p.  xviii. 

Peninsular  &  Oriental  Co.  sends  'Vectis'  or  other  excursion 
steamer  from  London  (office,  see  p.  xix)  several  times  in  spring 
and  summer  to  Lisbon,  Gibraltar,  and  Tangier. 

Compania  Trasatldntica  (Canary  Line)  calls  at  Tangier  (if 
required  also  at  Casablanca  and  Mazagan)  once  a  month  on  the 
voyage  to  and  from  Barcelona. 

Bland  Line,  small  cargo-boats  thrice  weekly  from  Gibraltar 
to  Tangier;  also  steamers  from  Tangier  to  Tetuan  and  Larash. 

Oldenburg  Portuguese  Line  fortnightly  from  Tangier  to  Rabat, 
Mogador,  etc. 

Vapores  Correos  de  Africa  twice  monthly  from  Tangier  to 
Larash,  Rabat,  Casablanca,  Mazagan,  Saffi,  and  Mogador. 

N.  Paquet  &  Co.  weekly  from  Tangier  to  Rabat  and  Mogador. 

Navigation  Mixte  weekly  from  Tangier  for  Melilla,  Malaga, 
and  Oran. 

Hungarian  Adria  monthly  from  Gibraltar  to  Tangier  and  Oran. 

(5).  W.  Mediterranean. 

From  Gibraltar  to  Genoa  (R.  15a): —  White  Star  Line  (from 
New  York  or  Boston)  2-3  times  monthly;  North  German  Lloyd 
(from  Southampton)  monthly;  Cunard  Line  (from  New  York)  oc- 
casionally; Lloyd  Sabaudo  (from  S.  America)  once  monthly. 

From  Gibraltar  to  Algiers  (R.  15b):  —  North  German  Lloyd 
fortnightly;  the  Hamburg-American,  the  Austrian  Lloyd,  and  the 
German  Levant,  all  less  regularly ;  Navigation  Mixte  (Touache 
Co.)  to  Oran  (thence  to  Algiers  by  rail). 

From  Gibraltar  to  Marseilles  (R.  17) :  —  Peninsular  &  Oriental 
(from  London)  weekly;  Orient  Royal  (from  London)  fortnightly. 

From  Gibraltar  to  Naples  (R.  16):  —  Orient  Royal  (from  Lon- 
don) fortnightly ;  North  German  Lloyd  (from  Southampton)  twice, 
also  (from  New  York)  once  or  twice  monthly;  Cunard  and  White 


STEAMBOATS.  xxi 

Star  (from  New  York  or  Boston),  each  two  or  three  times  a  month; 
Hamburg-American  (from  New  York)  once  or  twice  a  month. 

From  Marseilles  to  Naples  (R.  23) :  —  Orient  Royal  (from  Lon- 
don) fortnightly;  North  German  Lloyd  (from  Southampton)  fort- 
nightly; German  East  African  Line  once  in  three  weeks;  Mes- 
sageries  Maritimes  fortnightly ;  Hungarian  Adria  (cargo-boats) 
twice  weekly. 

From  Marseilles  to  Algiers  (R.  20) :  — G6n&rale  Transatlantique 
four  times  weekly ;  Transports  Maritimes,  twice  weekly ;  Naviga- 
tion Mixte  (Touaehe  Co.)  weekly,  also  cargo-boat  weekly. 

From  Marseilles  to  Tunis  (R.  21) :  —  North  German  Lloyd 
fortnightly  (to  Goletta  only) ;  Gin&rale  Transatlantique  once 
weekly  (and  thence  on  to  Malta),  and  via  Bizerta  once  weekly; 
Navigation  Mixte  (Touaehe  Co.)  once  weekly,  and  cargo-boats 
via  Bizerta  once  weekly. 

From  Genoa  to  Naples  (R.  24):  —  North  German  Lloyd  (from 
Southampton)  two  or  three  times  a  month;  Hamburg- American 
once  or  twice  monthly ;  Cunard  and  White  Star,  each  once  monthly ; 
Societd  Nazionale  three  or  four  times  weekly;  Italian  Lloyd 
once,  twice,  or  thrice  monthly;  La  Veloce  and  Lloyd  Sabaudo, 
each  once  monthly;  Hungarian  Adria  twice  weekly. 

From  Genoa  to  Tunis  (R.  25):  —  Societd  Nazionale  weekly; 
North  German  Lloyd  fortnightly  to  Bizerta. 

From  Naples  to  Palermo  (R.  26) :  —  Steamers  of  the  Ferrovie 
dello  Stato  daily;  Societd  Nazionale  weekly;  Hungarian  Adria 
twice  weekly;  Lloyd  Sabaudo  monthly. 

From  Palermo  to  Tunis  (R.  26):  —  Societd  Nazionale  weekly, 
also  small  cargo-boats  weekly ;  Navigation  Mixte  (Touaehe  Co.), 
cargo-boats  weekly. 

From  Naples  to  Messina  and  Syracuse  (R.  27) :  —  Societd  Na- 
zionale thrice  weekly  to  Messina,  and  once  weekly  thence  to  Syr- 
acuse; also  steamers  of  the  Ferrovie  dello  Stato  weekly  from 
Naples  to  Messina,  and  of  the  North  German  Lloyd  fortnightly 
from  Naples  to  Catania. 

From  Tunis  or  Syracuse  to  Malta  (R.  64) :  —  Societd  Nazionale 
six  times  monthly;  Hungarian  Adria  six  times  weekly.  —  From 
London  to  Malta:  Peninsidar  &  Oriental  usually  weekly.  From 
Liverpool  to  Naples  and  Malta:  City  Line  about  once  monthly. 

(6).  Steamers  to  Algeria. 

From  Southampton  to  Algiers:  —  North  German  Lloyd  once 
or  twice  monthly  direct;  Nederland  Royal  Mail  fortnightly  via 
Lisbon  and  Tangier. 

From  Marseilles  to  Oran  (R.  19):  —  Gdn&rale  Transatlantique 
twice  weekly;  Transports  Maritimes  once,  and  cargo-boat  once 


xxii  STEAMBOATS 

weekly;  Navigation  Mixte  (Touache  Co.)  once  weekly  (also 
weekly  steamers  from  Cette  to  Oran). 

From  Marseilles  to  Algiers,  see  p.  xxi. 

From  Gibraltar  to  Algiers,  see  p.  xx. 

From  Cartagena  to  Oran  (R.  18) :  —  Gdnirale  Transatlantique 
once  weekly. 

From  Tangier  to  Oran  (R.  18) :  —  Navigation  Mixte  (Touache 
Co.)  weekly,  also  cargo-boats  fortnightly;  Hungarian  Adria  once 
monthly. 

(7).  Steamers  to  Tunis. 

From  Algiers  to  Tnnis  (It.  22): —  Generate  Transatlantique, 
coasting  cargo-boats,  once  weekly;  German  Levant  Lane  two  or 
three  times  a  month;  Hungarian  Adria  once  monthly  to  Tunis 
direct.    Several  other  lines  are  available  for  sections  of  the  route. 

From  Marseilles  to  Tunis,  see  p.  xxj ;  from  Naples  to  Palermo, 
and  from  Palermo  to  Tunis,  see  p.  xxi ;  from  Naples  to  Syracuse, 
and  from  Syracuse  to  Malta  and  Tunis,  see  p.  xxi 

(8).  Eastern  Mediterranean 

From  Tunis  to  Malta,  see  p.  xxi. 

From  Tunis  to  Tripoli  (R.  64):  —  Societa  Nazionale  weekly, 
and  Navigation  Mixte  (Touache  Co.)  weekly,  both  coasting. 
(From  Algiers  to  Tripoli  direct  or  via  Malta,  cargo-steamers  of 
the  German  Levant  Line.) 

From  Tripoli  to  Malta  and  Syracuse  (R.  G4):  —  Societa  Nazio- 
nale weekly,  other  boats  fortnightly. 

From  Tripoli  to  Alexandria  (R.  65):  —  German  Levant  Line, 
cargo-boats,  thrice  monthly ;  Banco  di  Roma  fortnightly. 

From  Tripoli  to  Constantinople  (R.  66):  —  Societa  Nazionale 
fortnightly. 

From  Marseilles,  Genoa,  and  Naples  to  Alexandria  (R.  67):  — 
North  German  Lloyd  -weekly  from  Marseilles  to  Naples  and 
Alexandria;  Messageries  Mariiimes  from  Marseilles  w'eekly  to 
Alexandria  direct;  Societa  Nazionale  weekly  from  Genoa  to 
Leghorn,  Naples,  and  Alexandria. 

From  Venice  to  Alexandria  (R.  68) :  —  Societa  Nazionale  fort- 
nightly, via  Ancona,  Bari,  and  Brindisi. 

From  Trieste  to  Alexandria  (R.  68) :  —  Austrian  Lloyd  weekly 
vi§,  Brindisi,  and  weekly  via.  Gravosa  and  Brindisi. 

Steamers  to  Port  Said  (RR.  67,  68) :  —  All  the  great  liners  already 
mentioned  and  others  besides  converge  at  Port  Said.  Of  the  com- 
panies despatching  vessels  almost  daily  from  British  ports  the 
following  are  the  chief:  Peninsular  &  Oriental  (calling  at  Gibraltar, 
Marseilles,  and  Brindisi) ;  Orient  Royal  and  North  German  Lloyd 


STEAMBOATS.  xxiii 

(calling  at  Gibraltar,  Marseilles,  and  Naples) ;  Bibby  (calling  at 
Marseilles) ;  City  Line  (calling  at  Naples  and  Malta) ;  British  In- 
dia Lane  (calling  occasionally  at  Marseilles,  Genoa,  or  Naples) ; 
Nederland  Royal  Mail  (via  Genoa) ;  Rotterdam  Lloyd  (via  Mar- 
seilles); Queensland  IAne;  Japan  Mail  (via  Marseilles);  and 
Compaflia  Trasatldntica  (via  Genoa). 

Steamers  to  Palestine  and  Syria  (K.  72): — Khedivial  Mail, 
Austrian  Lloyd,  Russian  Steam  Navigation  &  Trading  Co., 
Soeieta  Nazionale,  all  weekly  from  Alexandria  to  Port  Said,  Jaffa, 
Haifa,  and  Beirut;  Messageries  Maritimes  fortnightly  from  Alexan- 
dria and  Port  Said  to  Beirut  direct,  and  fortnightly  calling  at  Jaffa; 
German  Levant,  cargo-boats,  twice  monthly  from  Alexandria  to 
Jaffa,  Haifa,  and  Beirut. 

From  Alexandria  and  Beirut  to  Smyrna  and  Constantinople 
(RR.  72,  75,  76) :  —  Khedivial  Mail  fortnightly  from  Alexandria  to 
Port  Said,  Beirut,  Smyrna,  and  Constantinople;  Russian  Steam 
Navigation  &  Trading  Co.,  similar  route,  weekly ;  Messageries 
Maritimes  fortnightly  from  Beirut;  La  Phoceenne  weekly  from 
Alexandria  to  Smyrna  (Constantinople). 

Steamers  to  the  Pirseus  (Athens;  RR.  76,  77,  78):  —  Khedivial 
Mail,  Rumanian  Mail,  Russian  Steam  Navigation  &  Trading 
Co.,  all  weekly  from  Alexandria  to  the  Pirseus;  North  German 
Lloyd  fortnightly  from  Marseilles  to  Genoa,  Naples,  Catania,  and 
the  Pirseus;  Messageries  Maritimes  fortnightly  from  Marseilles 
to  the  Pirseus;  Soeieta  Nazionale  weekly  from  Genoa  to  Leghorn, 
Naples,  Palermo,  Messina,  and  the  Pirseus ;  Soeieta  Nazionale  also 
weekly  from  Venice  to  Brindisi,  Patras,  and  the  Pirseus;  Austrian 
Lloyd  weekly  from  Trieste  to  Patras  and  the  Pirseus;  also  Greek- 
Oriental  and  Thessalian  lines  of  the  same  company,  each  weekly  from 
Trieste  to  the  Pirseus ;  Greek  Panhellenios  Co.  weekly  from  Trieste 
to  Patras  and  the  Pirseus ;  Austro- Americana,  New  York  line  (quick- 
est), weekly  from  Trieste  to  Patras  (for  Athens). 

From  the  Pirseus  (Athens)  via.  Smyrna  to  Constantinople 
(R.  80) :  —  Kliedivial  Mail  weekly ;  North  German  Lloyd,  Mes- 
sageries  Maritimes,  both  fortnightly;  Austrian  Lloyd  weekly; 
also  Rumanian  Mail,  Soeieta  Nazionale,  and  Austrian  Lloyd 
(the  three  quickest  routes),  each  weekly  to  Constantinople  direct. 

(9).  Black  Sea. 

From  Constantinople  to  Constantza  (R.  82) :  —  Rumanian  Mail 
(quickest)  twice  weekly;  Austrian  Lloyd  alternate  Fridays  and 
alternate  Saturdays;  Soeieta  Nazionale  weekly. 

From  Constantinople  to  Odessa  (R.  83) :  —  NorthGerman  Lloyd 
fortnightly;  Russian  Steam  Navigation  &  Trading  Co.,  direct 
line,  weekly;  Syria  and  Egypt  lines  fortnightly;  Anatolian  line  fort- 


xxiv  STEAMBOATS. 

nightly ;  Austrian  Lloyd  fortnightly ;  Societa  Nazionale  weekly ; 
Messageries  Maritim.es  weekly. 

From  Odessa  to  Batum  (R.  84): —  Russian  Steam  Navigation 
&  Trading  Co.  weekly;  North  German  Lloyd  monthly. 

From  Batnm  to  Constantinople  (R.  85) :  —  North  German  Lloyd 
alternate  Saturdays;  Russian  Steam  Navigation  &  Trading  Co. 
alternate  Thursdays ;  Austrian  Lloyd  weekly ;  Messageries  Mari- 
times,  N.  Paquet  &  Co.,  and  Societa  Nazionale  all  fortnightly. 


Overland  Routes.  Travellers  bound  for  the  Central  or 
Eastern  Mediterranean,  and  in  particular  those  who  wish  to  avoid 
the  long  voyage  to  Gibraltar  and  thus  to  save  five,  six,  or  more 
days,  will  choose  an  overland  route  to  one  or  other  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean ports.  Marseilles  is  reached  from  London  by  the  'P.  &  0. 
Express',  starting  on  Thnrsdays,  or  by  the  'Calais-Mediterranean 
Express',  daily  in  winter,  in  20-201/4  hrs.,  or  by  ordinary  express 
in  22J/2  hrs.  —  Genoa  is  27  hrs.  from  London,  via  Paris  and  Mont 
Cenis.  —  Venice  is  321/4  hrs.  from  London  via  Bale  and  the  St. 
Gotthard. —  Trieste  is  reached  in  43^2  brs.  from  London  via  Milan. 
—  Naples  is  46  hrs.  from  London  via,  Paris  and  Rome.  —  Brindisi 
is  reached  in  45y4  hrs.  by  the  'P.  &  0.  Brindisi  Express',  starting 
on  Friday  mornings,  or  by  ordinary  express,  via  Boulogne  and 
Paris,  in  54J/2  hrs. 

Lastly,  the  traveller  who  proposes  to  explore  the  Mediterranean 
from  east  to  west,  and  who  desires  to  economize  time,  should 
consult  Bradshaw's  Continental  Railway  Time  Tables,  or  the  Ger- 
man Reichskursbuch,  or  Hendschel's  Telegraph,  as  to  the  great 
Oriental  expresses  to  Constantinople  and  the  Black  Sea. 

Hints  to  Steamboat  Passengers.  During  the  height  of  the  sea- 
son (in  Egypt  Jan.  and  Feb.,  in  other  parts  of  the  Mediterranean  March, 
April  and  even  May)passages  often  have  to  be  booked  a  month  or  six 
weeks  in  advance.  Holders  of  return-tickets  or  combined  tickets  must 
secure  berths  for  the  return-voyage  also  long  beforehand. 

Heavy  Baggage,  to  be  stowed  away  in  the  hold,  should  be  sent  on 
board  at  least  one  or  two  days  beforehand.  Each  passenger  should 
endeavour,  for  his  own  sake  and  that  of  others,  to  limit  his  requirements 
for  the  voyage  to  one  or  two  cabin-trunks  of  moderate  size.  Private  cabins 
should,  as  a  rule,  be  kept  locked,  and  small  articles  should  not  be  left 
lying  about  on  deck  unwatched. 

Landing  or  Embarkation  by  small  boat  is  often  an  unpleasant  pro- 
ceeding, as  the  boatmen  are  apt  to  be  extortionate  in  their  demands, 
especially  when  the  sea  is  rough.  The  charge  for  each  passenger  with 
his  baggage  should  be  ascertained  beforehand  and  only  paia  at  the  end  of 
the  trip,  or  the  whole  transaction  may  be  entrusted  to  one  of  the  hotel- 
agents.  Small  articles  carried  in  the  hand  should  not  be  allowed  out  of 
sight. 

The  Food  is  generally  good.  Coffee  is  served  between  8  and  10, 
lunch  at  1  or  earlier,  dinner  at  6  or  7.  First-class  passengers  in  the 
British  and  German  steamers  dress  for  dinner. 

The  Fees  vary  according  to  circumstances.  They  are  of  course  higher 
if  the  passenger  has  been  ill  and  has  required  much  attention.   The  chief 


INTERCOURSE  WITH  ORIENTALS.  xxv 

steward   or  stewardess   usually   expects   at  least  1  fr.  per  day,   and  the 
other  attendants  receive  fees  proportioned  to  the  services  rendered. 

Mr  dical  Attendance  and  medicines,  in  case  of  illness,  are  nominally 
free,  but  a  reasonable  fee  is  usually  paid.  Baths  in  the  larger  steam- 
boats are  free,  fixed  hours  being  allotted  to  passengers  on  application. 
Passengers  may  bring  their  own  Deck  Chairs  or  hire  them  from  the 
chief  steward. 


IV.  Intercourse  "with  Orientals. 

The  objects  and  pleasures  of  travel  are  so  unintelligible  to  most 
Orientals  that  they  are  apt  to  regard  the  European  traveller  as  a 
lunatic,  or  at  all  events  as  a  Crcesus,  and  therefore  to  be  exploited 
on  every  possible  occasion.  Hence  their  constant  demands  for 
•bakshish'  ('a  gift').  To  check  this  demoralizing  cupidity  the  tra- 
veller should  never  give  bakshish  except  for  services  rendered, 
unless  occasionally  to  aged  or  crippled  beggars. 

Small  fees  are,  however,  not  unreasonably  expected  by  drivers, 
guides,  donkey-boys,  and  others,  over  and  above  their  stipulated 
hire.  Excursionists  should  therefore  always  be  well  provided  with 
small  change.  If  no  previous  bargain  has  been  made  the  charges 
and  fees  stated  in  the  Handbook  are  usually  ample. 

While  the  traveller  should  be  both  cautious  and  firm  in  his 
dealings  with  the  natives,  he  should  avoid  being  too  exacting  or 
suspicious.  Many  of  those  he  meets  with  are  like  mere  children 
and  often  show  much  kindliness  of  disposition.  In  most  cases  their 
attempts  at  extortion  are  comparatively  trilling;  but  if  serious,  the 
matter  may  be  referred  to  the  police  or  to  the  traveller's  consul. 

On  the  other  hand  exaggerated  professions  of  friendship  should 
be  distrusted,  loyalty  towards  strangers  being  still  rarer  in  the 
East  than  elsewhere.  The  natives  are  apt  to  make  common  cause 
against  European  visitors.  While  their  religion  usually  requires 
them  to  address  each  other  as  'yd  alhuija'  (my  brother),  their  bro- 
therhood does  not  extend  to  outsiders. 

As  the  Orientals  are  often  remarkably  dignified  and  punctilious 
in  their  bearing,  the  traveller  should  show  corresponding  respect 
and  consideration  for  their  customs  and  prejudices.  He  should 
never,  for  example,  photograph  a  Mohammedan  without  his  leave, 
nor  look  too  curiously  at  the  veiled  women,  nor  don  Oriental  cos- 
tume. Sacred  places,  such  as  mosques,  chapels,  and  religious 
houses  and  their  schools,  must  not  be  entered  without  removing 
one's  shoes  or  putting  on  slippers,  lest  the  carpets  and  mats  on 
which  prayer  is  offered  be  polluted.  Korans  must  never  be  touched ; 
and  when  prayers  are  being  recited,  strangers  must  keep  carefully 
aloof.  In  every  part  of  the  Orient  the  traveller  meets  with  'saints' 
(often  imbecile  or  insane),  who  go  about  in  fantastic  rags  and  some- 
times stark  naked.  Needless  to  say  he  will  give  them  a  wide  berth. 


xxvi  INTEECOTJRSE  WITH  ORIENTALS. 

The  traveller  may  least  obtrusively  observe  the  various  phases 
of  Oriental  life  by  visiting  the  native  quarters  of  the  towns,  the 
bazaars  and  markets,  and  the  popular  festivals  and  recreations  of 
the  Moslems.  Story-tellers  at  the  native  cafes  (reminiscent  of  the 
Arabian  Nights),  jugglers,  wrestlers,  snake-charmers,  barbers' 
shops,  and  native  schools  are  all  objects  of  interest.  In  Turkey 
and  in  Egypt  the  popular  theatres  with  their  shadow-scenes  (kara 
goz)  are  curious.  Ladies  may  sometimes,  by  special  introduction, 
obtain  admission  to  a  private  dwelling-house  and  get  a  glimpse  of 
the  manners  and  customs  of  Oriental  women.  On  Fridays  they  may 
see  the  Moslem  women  raising  their  veils  in  the  cemeteries  (comp. 
p.  220). 

Gentlemen,  when  visiting  an  Oriental,  knock  at  the  door  with  an 
iron  ring.  From  within  is  asked  the  question  'mill'  (who  is  there)?  On 
being  admitted,  after  the  ladies  who  happen  to  be  in  the  court  have 
retired,  he  removes  his  shoes  lest  the  costly  carpets  be  sullied,  and  un- 
covers his  head.  The  host  approaches  to  meet  him,  one  step  or  more 
according  to  the  honour  he  desires  to  do  his  visitor.  The  latter  salutes 
him  in  Oriental  fashion  by  placing  his  right  hand  on  his'  heart  and  then 
moving  it  up  to  his  forehead.  Questions  as  to  health  are  first  asked, 
but  no  allusion  must  be  made  to  the  ladies  of  the  family,  who  are  regard- 
ed as  under  a  veil  (sitr).  Coffee  is  always  offered.  The  servant  with 
his  left  hand  on  his  heart,  hands  round  the  little  cups  to  the  guests  in 
order  of  their  rank.  The  guest  holds  the  cup  in  his  hand  till  it  is  taken 
back  by  the  servant.  If  the  host  wishes  his  guest  to  pay  a  long  visit 
he  delays  his  order  for  coffee,  and  the  guest  must  not  leave  before  then. 

It  is  considered  highly  impolite  to  decline  a  visit,  and  each  visit 
must  of  course  be  returned. 

The  Guides  who  proffer  their  services  everywhere  may  gener- 
ally be  dispensed  with,  except  by  novices  or  by  travellers  pressed 
for  time.  Most  of  those  at  Constantinople  and  in  Asia  Minor  are 
native  Jews,  who  speak  a  little  English,  Italian,  French,  or  German. 
All,  as  a  rule,  are  ignorant  and  uneducated,  and  their  'explanations' 
of  antiquities  or  works  of  art  are  worthless.  When,  as  sometimes 
happens,  they  assume  a  patronizing  or  a  familiar  manner,  they 
should  be  promptly  checked  and  kept  in  their  proper  place.  If 
a  purchase  has  to  be  made,  or  a  carriage  or  horse  to  be  hired,  the 
aid  of  a  guide  should  be  declined,  as  the  sum  demanded  is  then 
considerably  raised,  and  part  of  it  given  to  the  guide  as  commis- 
sion. On  short  excursions  the  guide  usually  walks,  and  it  is  quite 
unnecessary  to  provide  him  with  a  mount. 

In  the  large  towns  the  guides  and  commissionaires  are  some- 
times in  the  pay  of  gambling-rooms  or  low  places  of  entertainment. 
Against  such,  especially  at  night,  the  traveller  should  be  on  his 
guard. 


The  Mediterranean  Sea  and  adjoining 
Lands. 

Geographical  Sketch  hy  the  late 
Prof.  Theobald  Fischer. 

The  shores  of  the  Mediterranean,  formerly  visited  in  part  only 
and  imperfectly  known,  now  most  deservedly  attract,  throughout 
their  whole  extent,  an  ever  increasing  number  of  travellers  and 
explorers.  No  part  of  the  earth's  surface  can  offer  so  marvellous 
an  intellectual  feast.  Land  where  he  may,  the  traveller  is  almost 
invariably  struck  with  the  beauty  of  the  scenery,  the  richness  of 
the  vegetation,  and  the  wealth  of  historical  memories.  For  three 
thousand  years  the  Mediterranean  was  the  theatre  of  all  history, 
the  cradle  of  all  culture,  to  which  the  whole  of  humanity  more  or 
less  directly  owes  its  modern  civilization.  It  was  here  for  the  first 
time  that  the  nearness  of  the  opposite  coasts  and  the  numerous  is- 
land stepping-stones,  coupled  with  winds  blowing  gently  for  months 
at  a  time,  deprived  the  sea  of  its  terrors  and  gave  birth  to  a  hardy 
race  of  mariners.  The  stagnation  of  the  continental  peoples  was 
thus  powerfully  stirred  and  their  ignorance  gradually  dispelled. 
It  was  first  in  Egypt,  and  then  above  all  in  Greece  and  in  Italy, 
that  those  mighty  intellectual  weapons  were  forged  which  were  to 
conquer  the  whole  earth,  while  from  Palestine  came  the  mightiest 
of  all  religious  and  moral  influences.  The  Mediterranean  was  the 
school  of  almost  all  the  mediaeval  geographers  and  navigators,  such 
as  Toscanelli,  Columbus,  Vespucci,  the  Gabotti  (the  'Cabots'  em- 
ployed by  Henry  VII.),  and  others,  who  added  a  New  "World  to  the 
old,  and  who  brought  Europe  into  touch  with  the  great  Asiatic 
cradles  of  culture.  The  Italians  were  the  first  to  educate  the  Spanish, 
Portuguese,  French,  and  even  English  mariners,  and  to  introduce 
them  to  that  Ocean  which  was  to  become  the  world's  commercial 
and  intellectual  highway. 

The  ancient  Romans  were  fully  aware,  from  a  very  early  period, 
that  they  could  maintain  their  empire  on  land  only  by  securing 
their  supremacy  at  sea  also.  Favoured  by  the  central  situation  of 
Italy,  they  gradually  subjected  the  whole  of  the  Mediterranean  lands 
to  their  sway,  thus  imparting  to  them  a  certain  social  and  political 
unity.  The  name  of  'sea  in  the  middle  of  the  land',  though  of  late- 
Roman  origin,  still  suggests  the  idea  that  both  sea  and  laud  belonged 
to  Rome.  But  this  unity  was  afterwards  destroyed  by  the  repeated 
incursions  of  Germanic  tribes  from  the  north,  followed  by  Arabs 
and  Turks  from  the  south  and  east.  Owing  to  the  discovery  of  the 
great  ocean  highways  the  Mediterranean  was  almost  entirely  ne- 
glected in  the  16-19th  centuries,  but  since  the  opening  of  the  Suez 
Canal  in  1869  it  has  become  one  of  the  world's  most  important 


xxviii  GEOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

arteries  of  traffic.  The  establishment  of  the  French  in  Algeria 
(1830)  and  Tunisia  (1881)  and  that  of  the  British  in  Egypt  (1884) 
have  still  more  effectually  reunited  Europe  and  Africa  and  promoted 
the  progress  of  civilization  and  commerce.  With  Asia  also  Europe 
has  been  brought  into  closer  touch  since  the  Crimean  war  of  1854-6, 
when  the  Black  Sea  was  opened  up,  and  new  avenues  to  the  Orient 
were  thus  rendered  available.  While  nominally  belonging  to  three 
different  quarters  of  the  globe,  the  Mediterranean  with  its  shores, 
being  bounded  on  the  north  by  a  long  wall  of  high  mountains  and 
on  the  south  by  a  vast  and  even  more  impenetrable  expanse  of  desert, 
possesses  quite  a  unique  individuality  of  its  own. 

Geologically  considered  the  Mediterranean  forms  part  of  an 
immense  depression  girdling  the  whole  of  the  earth's  crust  and 
separating  the  northern  from  the  southern  parts.  This  depression 
probably  existed  during  the  earlier  geological  periods,  but  iu  its 
depths  has  not  yet  assumed  a  settled  character,  as  is  evidenced  by 
frequent  earthquakes,  mostly  tectonic,  and  by  continuous  volcanic 
activity.  This  great  depression  is  believed  by  geologists  to  have 
extended  in  the  mesozoic  period  into  Central  Asia,  far  beyond  the 
limits  of  the  present  Mediterranean,  forming  an  immense  sea  to 
which  the  name  of  Tethys  has  been  given.  In  its  depths  were  de- 
posited those  strata,  chiefly  calcareous  and  argillaceous,  which 
were  afterwards  raised  and  converted  into  dry  land  by  means  of 
the  centripetal  motion  of  the  earlier  masses  of  rock  and  by  lateral 
pressure.  In  proof  of  this  it  may  be  noted  that  some  two-thirds 
of  Italy  and  four-fifths  of  Sicily  consist  of  subaqueous  formations 
of  the  tertiary  or  even  a  later  period. 

In  the  midst  of  this  vast  'Eurasian'  (European-Asiatic)  region 
of  folded  rock  formation,  some  930  miles  in  length,  bounded  on  the 
north  by  the  solid  primaeval  rocks  of  the  continent  of  Europe,  and 
on  the  south  by  the  great  plateau  of  the  desert,  lies  the  Chief  Basin 
of  the  Mediterranean,  embracing  the  Adriatic  and  the  Greek 
Archipelago,  where  the  highly  indented  coast  and  the  numerous 
islands  and  peninsulas  display  a  most  striking  variety  of  picturesque 
scenery.  On  the  other  hand  the  smaller  part  of  the  sea,  lying  to 
the  south  of  a  line  drawn  from  the  Lesser  Syrtis,  past  the  south 
coasts  of  Crete  and  Cyprus,  to  North  Syria,  has  been  formed  by 
encroachment  on  the  plateau  of  the  desert  (p.  xxxiii),  and  is  al- 
most entirely  destitute  of  attraction.  In  the  geological  history  of 
the  Mediterranean  it  is  important  to  note  also  that  three  great  rock- 
masses  of  the  earliest  periods  still  survive.  These  are  the  Iberian 
mass  to  the  west,  once  probably  connected  with  the  kindred  rocks  of 
the  Atlas  in  Morocco;  then  the  Tyrrhenian  mass,  in  the  centre,  and 
the  Rumelian  to  the  east.  These  three  belong  to  the  archsean  and 
palaeozoic  periods.  Once  towering  to  Alpine  peaks,  they  were  grad- 
ually undermined  by  the  action  of  the  waves  and  by  the  subsidence 


GEOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  xxix 

of  the  land.  Their  bases  were  thus  partly  covered  with  their  ddbris, 
built  up  in  new  formations.  By  later  movements  of  the  earth's  crust, 
however,  these  shapeless  primaeval  masses  were  again  broken  up, 
and  by  the  pressure  and  counter-pressure  of  the  fragments  were 
piled  up  anew  into  smaller  mountain-ranges  of  considerable  height. 
Thus  from  the  Iberian  primaeval  rock  sprang  up,  in  the  Castilian 
range  (Sierra  de  Gredos),  peaks  to  a  height  of  nearly  9000  feet;  in 
the  Rhodope  of  Rumelia  rise  similar  peaks  to  nearly  10,000  feet 
high;  and  even  amid  the  ruins  of  the  Tyrrhenis  (p.  xxxi)  still 
towers  the  granitic  Monte  Cinto  in  Corsica  to  a  height  of  8900  feet. 
Around  these  great  primaeval  masses,  deeply  rooted  in  the 
earth's  crust,  were  gradually  built  up  the  recent  folded  mountains, 
out  of  materials  forced  aside  and  upwards  by  the  debris  of  earlier 
rock  as  it  sank  into  the  sea.  Thus  on  the  Iberian  Pedestal,  from 
the  north  side,  out  of  the  depths  of  the  great  Biscay  abyss,  arose 
the  Pyrenaean-Cantabrian  Folded  Chain  (culminating  in  the 
Aneto  or  Maladetta,  11,168  ft.),  the  fan-like  structure  of  which 
has  been  due  to  lateral  pressure  coming  from  the  Ebro  depression 
also.  By  similar  pressure  from  the  south  side  the  Andalusian 
Folded  Mountains  were  piled  up  against  the  Iberian  nucleus 
(Meseta  Mts.),  and,  though  only  23  miles  distant  from  the  Mediter- 
ranean, they  tower  in  the  Mulhac6n  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  to  a  height 
of  11,424  feet,  the  greatest  altitude  in  Europe  apart  from  the  Alps. 
As  the  Pyrenees  are  fringed  on  the  east,  on  the  frontier  of  Spain 
and  France  (near  Port  Vendres),  with  a  deeply  indented  coast,  so 
too  the  Andalusian  range  is  strongly  marked  by  transverse  fissures, 
the  eastmost  of  which  have  severed  the  Balearic  Islands  from  the 
mainland.  Still  more  striking  is  the  great  westmost  fissure  or  cleav- 
age, where  the  girdle  of  mountains  takes  a  sharp  turn  from  west 
to  east,  where  the  action  of  tides  and  waves  has  hollowed  out  the 
Straits  of  Gibraltar,  and  has  further  widened  them  within  the 
historic  period.  The  Mediterranean  is  here  separated  from  the  At- 
lantic by  a  submarine  bar  or  threshold,  at  a  depth  averaging  only 
650  feet,  extending  from  Cape  Trafalgar  to  Cape  Spartel,  a  dis- 
tance of  27y2  miles,  and  forming  the  boundary  between  the  inner 
Alboran  basin  or  depression  and  the  outer  or  Andalusian.  Thus, 
on  north  and  south  alike  the  Iberian  central  bed-rock  is  bordered 
with  lofty  mountains,  whose  seaboard  almost  everywhere  repels 
human  traffic,  and  seems  barred  against  Europe  by  the  Pyrenees 
and  against  Africa  by  the  mountains  of  Andalusia.  On  the  east 
side,  however,  between  the  Pyrenees  and  Cabo  de  la  Nao  (p.  112), 
the  original  rock-nucleus  slopes  gradually  down  to  the  Mediter- 
ranean. Still  more  important  is  the  western  slope  down  to  the 
Atlantic,  whose  waves  have  penetrated  into  the  lower  estuaries 
of  primaeval  rock  on  the  coast,  thus  forming  a  number  of  excellent 
harbours,  such  as  in  particular  that  of  Lisbon  at  the  mouth  of  the 


xxx  GEOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

Tagns.  Towards  the  Atlantic  descend  also  the  plains  of  Lower 
Andalusia,  the  so-called  Guadalquivir  Basin,  which  lies  between 
the  Iberian  central  pedejtal  and  the  Andalnsian  sedimentary  and 
contorted  formations.  In  this  basin  lie  Spain's  chief  seaports  for 
traffic  with  Africa  and  America,  the  island-harbour  of  Cadiz,  the 
estuary-harbour  of  Huelva,  the  starting-point  of  Columbus,  and 
the  river-harbour  of  Seville,  accessible  to  large  vessels  at  high-tide. 

In  North-Western  Africa  the  Andalnsian  contorted  formation 
is  continued  by  the  Rlf  Mte.  of  Morocco  (p.  93)  and  by  the  Tell 
Atlas  (p.  169),  extending  to  the  south  and  then  turning  eastwards. 
These  ranges  are  characterized  by  deep  fissures,  formed  by  pre- 
historic volcanic  action  and  descending  abruptly  to  the  Mediter- 
ranean. The  whole  northern  coast  of  Morocco,  Algeria,  and  Tunisia, 
apart  from  numerous  wave-worn  beaches,  is  completely  rock-bound, 
forbidding  all  approach.  Even  the  artificial  harbours  like  that  of 
Algiers  are  maintained  with  difficulty.  At  the  east  end  of  this  long 
stretch  of  coast  comes  at  last  the  welcome  haven  offered  by  the 
Gulf  of  Tunis,  which  runs  inland  at  the  mouth  of  the  depression 
between  the  Tell  Atlas  and  the  Sahara  Atlas  (p.  320),  and  on  which 
the  Medjerda  and  other  streams  and  several  important  roads  con- 
verge. Here,  as  in  Lower  Andalusia,  a  great  avenue  to  the  interior 
was  thus  opened  up.  This  favoured  spot  therefore  became  a  great 
focus  of  traffic,  and  as  it  lay  on  the  Straits  of  Pantelleria  (p.  396)  it 
was  also  of  great  political  importance.  The  ancient  Utica  (p.  353) 
was  succeeded  by  the  'new  city'  of  Carthage  (p.  344),  the  predeces- 
sors of  the  modern  Tunis.  From  this  base  the  Carthaginians,  the 
Vandals,  and  the  Moors  ruled  Sicily  and  Sardinia.  With  such  a 
base  as  the  admirable  naval  harbour  of  Bizerta,  lately  constructed 
by  the  French,  they  in  turn  may  perhaps  some  day  become  masters 
of  the  Mediterranean. 

The  Straits  of  Pantelleria,  leading  from  the  western  to  the 
eastern  basin  of  the  Mediterranean  and  separating  the  Atlas  from 
the  Apennines,  have  been  formed,  like  those  of  Gibraltar  and  the 
narrow  side-portal  of  Messina,  by  transverse  cleavage.  Owing  to 
the  subsidence  of  the  flat  offshoots  of  the  Apennines  and  to  the 
erosive  action  of  the  waves  the  straits  have  been  gradually  widened 
to  about  90  miles.  The  Maltese  Islands  are  fragments,  now  broken 
up  by  fissures,  of  what  was  once  a  tableland,  but  they  too  are 
being  rapidly  washed  away  by  the  action  of  the  surf.  On  the  other 
hand  the  island  of  Pantelleria,  which  has  given  its  name  to  the 
straits,  rising  to  a  height  of  2743  ft.  from  the  verge  of  the  central 
abyss  and  3900  ft.  in  depth,  is  of  volcanic  origin.  These  transverse 
fissures  are  indeed  generally  the  scenes  of  volcanic  action,  and 
they  are  usually  situated  at  points  where  the  mountains  of  recent 
contorted  formation  take  a  sudden  bend  (as  is  notably  the  case  in 
the  lower  valley  of  the  Danube). 


GEOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  xxxi 

Italy  forms  an  immense  bridge  across  the  trough  of  the  Medi- 
terranean, extending  to  Cape  Bon  in  Tunisia.  Like  a  lofty  embank- 
ment, rising  over  18,000  ft.  from  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  Calabria, 
culminating  in  the  Aspromonte  (6424  ft.  above  sea-level),  separates 
the  Tyrrhenian  Sea  (12,000  ft.  deep,  though  of  recent  formation) 
from  the  Ionian  Sea.  The  latter  is  the  deepest  basin  in  the  Medi- 
terranean, attaining  a  depth  of  14,500  feet.  The  Apennines,  devi- 
ating in  their  southern  course  from  the  usual  'Eurasian'  direction, 
were  probably  influenced  by  the  primteval  Tyrrhenis.  This  ancient 
nucleus  of  the  Italian  continent  has  been  broken  up  by  movements 
of  the  earth's  crust  which  began  in  the  mesozoic  period,  were  still 
more  marked  in  the  later  tertiary  period,  and  continue  to  this 
day.  Some  of  the  solid  blocks,  as  in  Tuscany,  Calabria,  and  Sicily 
(the  Monti  Peloritani  near  Messina),  have  been  incorporated  in  the 
later  rock  structure  of  the  Apennines;  others  again  rise  as  isolated 
masses  from  the  abysses  of  the  Tyrrhenian  Sea,  such  as  Corsica, 
Sardinia,  and  Elba.  The  lines  of  cleavage,  especially  between 
Cosenza  and  Palermo,  were  marked  by  great  volcanic  activity.  In 
a  curve,  parallel  with  the  abrupt  ramparts  of  Calabria  and  Sicily, 
rise  the  volcanoes  of  the  Lipari  Islands  (Stromboli)  and  Ustica  iu 
succession.  To  the  nortli  the  series  is  continued  by  Vesuvius,  the 
Epomeo,  and  the  Ponza  Islands  near  Naples,  and  by  the  Alban 
Mts.  near  Pome.  All  these  lie  on  the  inner  declivity  of  the  Apen- 
nines. To  the  south  the  series  is  continued  by  Mt.  JEtna  in  Sicily, 
lying  outside  of  the  Apennines.  In  the  quaternary  period  the  new 
Apennine  formations  underwent  an  upheaval  which  imparted  to  the 
range  its  present  orographical  unity.  The  result  was  that  the 
straits  which  once  intersected  Southern  Italy,  connecting  the  Tyr- 
rhenian with  the  Ionian  basin,  were  filled  up,  with  the  exception 
of  those  of  Messina,  while  these  last  were  narrowed  to  2  miles  and 
shoaled  at  the  north  end,  where  they  are  only  335  ft.  deep.  The 
intensity  of  the  upheaval  is  evidenced  by  the  fact  that  quarternary 
deposits  cover  the  terraces  of  the  Aspromonte  in  Calabria  to  a 
height  of  3900  feet  above  the  sea-level.  That  these  movements  of 
the  earth's  crust  still  continue  is  proved  by  the  variations  of  level 
in  the  Bay  of  Naples  observed  within  historic  times.  The  most 
striking  instance  of  this  is  the  great  subsidence  in  the  island  of 
Capri  which  has  taken  place  within  the  Christian  era.  In  the  Blue 
Grotto  there  we  find  remains  of  a  flight  of  steps  of  the  time  of 
Tiberius,  descending  to  the  water,  but  the  lowest  step  is  now  19 
feet  below  the  surface. 

Italy  open9  towards  the  west.  On  the  west  side  lie  its  pictur- 
esque bays  and  islands,  as  well  as  most  of  its  great  centres  of  cul- 
ture, Rome  and  Florence,  Genoa  and  Naples,  besides  many  others. 
But  the  east  side  also  is  important  owing  to  its  close  connection 
with  the  south-eastern  basin  of  the  Mediterranean.  The  chief  outlets 


xxxii  GEOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

in  this  direction  are  the  lagoon-harbour  of  Venice,  as  great  a  portal 
of  continental  commerce  in  the  middle  ages  as  Genoa  is  at  the  pre- 
sent day,  and  the  excellent  harbours  of  Brindisi,  Taranto,  Mes- 
sina, and  Syractise.  Were  geographical  advantages  alone  decisive, 
Italy  might  again  become  mistress  of  the  Mediterranean.  Ethno- 
graphically  also  she  is  highly  favoured.  Her  population,  densest 
on  the  coasts,  is  about  one-third  of  the  scattered  and  heterogeneous 
hundred  million  inhabitants  of  the  whole  of  the  Mediterranean  lands. 

Almost  all  along  the  coast  of  the  north-western  basin  of  the 
Mediterranean  the  recent  stratified  and  contorted  headlands  abut 
most  picturesquely  on  the  sea.  On  the  north-west  only,  on  each 
side  of  the  Pyrenees,  the  basin  is  bounded  by  a  coast  of  the  primaeval 
bed-rock  formation,  and  is  easily  accessible  from  the  Iberian  moun- 
tains by  the  valleys  of  the  Ebro,  Jucar,  and  other  rivers.  Still  more 
important  are  the  avenues  afforded  by  the  Aquitanian  Plains  and 
the  Rhone  Valley.  Hence  it  was  that  from  a  very  early  period  the 
streams  of  Roman  culture  flowed  through  Marseilles  and  Narbonne 
to  western  and  central  Europe.  But  these,  like  the  Straits  of  Gib-, 
raltar  on  the  west,  the  Carso  or  Karst  near  Trieste  on  the  north,  and 
the  Bosporus  on  the  east,  afford  inlets  also  for  the  cold  winds  which 
sometimes  pour  into  the  warm  mountain-girdled  basin  of  the  Med- 
iterranean and  force  back  the  zone  of  southern  vegetation  (p.  xxxv). 

The  southern  margin  of  the  north-western  basin  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean lies  in  the  same  latitude  (36°)  as  the  northern  margin  of  the 
south-eastern  basin  (Cape  Tsenaron,  on  the  south  coast  of  Asia 
Minor).  This  less  favoured  south-eastern  basin  sends  two  great 
branches  towards  central  Europe,  the  Adriatic  and  the  Greek  Archi- 
pelago, both  of  which  open  out  in  the  direction  of  the  Suez  Canal 
and  the  Red  Sea.  From  these  branches  run  important  roads  leading 
to  the  heart  of  Europe,  in  particular  those  from  Venice  and  Trieste 
into  Austria,  and  that  from  Saloniki  to  Belgrade  and  up  the  Danube. 
This  last,  as  also  the  road  from  Belgrade  to  Sofia,  Adrianople,  and 
Constantinople,  traverses  the  Rumelian  Primary  Formation,  to 
which  the  greater  part  of  the  south-eastern  European  peninsula 
belongs  (Thrace  and  Macedonia,  extending  into  Servia).  To  the 
same  period  probably  once  belonged  also  the  north-western  part  of 
Asia  Minor  and  ^SUgaeis,  of  which  last  the  only  surviving  relics 
are  the  islands  of  the  Cyclades.  Here,  too,  over  the  primaeval  bed- 
rock, recent  folded  mountains  have  been  gradually  built  up.  The 
Balkan  is  one  of  these  ranges.  Another  is  the  EVyrian-Greek 
Range,  running  in  a  different  direction,  which  with  its  broad  girdle 
gives  the  peninsula  its  southern  trend,  while  shutting  it  off  from 
the  Adriatic  and  barring  direct  access  to  the  north-west.  As  the 
Balearic  Islands  belong  to  the  Andalusian  stratified  formation,  and 
as  Sicily  and  its  adjoining  islands  form  part  of  the  Apennines,  so 
the  western  stratified  girdle  of  the  south-eastern  European  penin- 


GEOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  xxxiii 

snla  crumbled,  even  within  the  historic  period,  into  peninsulas 
and  islands,  formed  chiefly  by  very  recent  subsidence.  Thus  arose 
Greece,  a  hill-country  with  an  extensive  seaboard,  a  new  and  unique 
region  which  was  one  day  to  reign  supreme  in  the  intellectual  world. 
It  is  probable  that  the  Greek  range  of  hills  was  once  prolonged 
eastwards,  as  appears  to  be  indicated  by  the  lie  of  the  Cretan  moun- 
tains, and  that  these  in  their  turn  were  connected  with  the  similarly 
stratified  Taurus  Mountains  in  Asia  Minor.  Just  as  the  south- 
eastern peninsula  of  Europe,  with  Asia  Minor,  thus  formed  the  great 
stepping-stones  of  traffic  which  brought  the  ancient  culture  of 
Europe  into  contact  with  that  of  Mesopotamia  and  Syria,  so  when 
the  railway  from  Constantinople  to  Bagdad  is  completed  a  great 
future  may  yet  be  in  store  for  the  Orient. 

The  Eastern  Mediterranean,  the  smaller  south-eastern 
basin  to  the  south  of  Malta,  Crete,  and  Cyprus  (p.  xxviii),  lies  within 
the  region  of  the  great  primaeval  desert-plateau  of  northern  Africa 
(apart  from  the  Atlas  regions),  of  Arabia,  and  Syria,  and  has  been 
formed  by  the  subsidence  of  part  of  that  plateau.  In  contrast  to  the 
richly  varied  shores  of  the  western  and  central  basins  its  coasts,  as 
may  even  be  seen  from  a  glance  at  the  map,  are  monotonous.  Their 
formation,  whether  perpendicular  or  horizontal,  is  featureless,  and 
there  is  an  almost  entire  lack  of  islands,  harbours,  and  rivers.  The 
Nile  greatly  relieves  this  monotony,  but  its  sources  lie  within  trop- 
ical regions  far  beyond  the  limits  of  the  desert.  Alexandria  pos- 
sesses almost  the  only  natural  harbour  on  this  flat  coast  of  early 
formation.  The  old-world  characteristics  of  the  land,  its  inhabi- 
tants, and  their  language  at  once  strike  the  traveller  on  landing  at 
Tripoli.  Yet  even  this  part  of  the  Mediterranean,  especially  the 
Levant  Basin,  beyond  the  passage  between  Crete  and  Barca,  con- 
tains recent  formations.  The  hill-region  of  Barca,  the  ancient 
Cyrenaica  (p.  413),  averaging  1600  feet  in  height,  is  composed  of 
miocene  marine  strata.  The  bay  now  filled  up  by  the  Nile  delta, 
and  at  one  time  connected  with  the  Red  Sea,  is  of  even  later  origin, 
dating  perhaps  from  the  plnvial  or  glacial  era.  That  the  mouth  of 
the  Nile  once  lay  much  farther  to  the  north  and  watered  Palestine 
is  evidenced  by  the  identity  of  its  fauna  with  that  of  the  Jordan  and 
the  Lake  of  Tiberias  (crocodiles,  for  instance,  occurring  in  the  Nahr 
ez-Zerka,  to  the  south  of  Mt.  Carmel;  p.  468).  Movements  of  the 
earth's  crust  also  account  for  the  peculiar  conformation  of  that  part 
of  the  great  desert-plateau  which  we  call  Syria.  It  is  only  differen- 
tiated from  the  monotonous  North  Arabian  desert  by  the  great 
Syrian  Valley  or  trough,  running  from  north  to  south,  and  ending  at 
the  Gulf  of  Akaba  in  the  Erythraean  depression  (the  Red  Sea),  which 
dates  from  about  the  same  epoch.  On  each  side  of  this  long  narrow 
furrow,  descending  to  a  depth  of  some  2500  feet  below  the  sea- 
level,  strips  of  land  have  been  forced  upwards  so  as  to  form  lofty 


xxxiv  GEOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

mountains.  These,  in  spite  of  subsidences  and  erosion,  still  attain 
a  height  of  about  10,000  feet  in  the  twin-giants  of  Lebanon  and 
Anti-Lebanon  in  Central  Syria.  It  is  to  this  highly  picturesque 
mountain-wall,  which  condenses  the  vapours  from  the  sea  and  re- 
mains snow-clad  till  late  in  summer,  that  the  Syrian  seaboard, 
10-16  miles  in  breadth,  owes  its  luxuriant  subtropical  vegetation, 
and  Palestine  its  cultivability  as  far  as  its  southern  borders.  Syria, 
which  may  be  regarded  geographically  and  anthropologically  as  a 
kind  of  peninsula  of  the  Mediterranean,  thus  forms  a  bridge  be- 
tween north  and  south,  connecting  Asia  Minor  and  Mesopotamia 
with  Arabia  and  Egypt,  and  bounded  by  the  sea  on  the  west  and 
by  the  desert,  only  some  60  miles  distant,  on  the  east. 

The  Black  Sea,  which  from  the  north-eastern  angle  of  the 
Archipelago  runs  far  into  the  interior  of  the  Old  World,  lies  out- 
side of  the  Mediterranean  regions.  Like  the  inland  Caspian  Sea 
it  is  a  relic  of  the  tertiary  Sarmatic  Sea,  which  was  afterwards 
broken  up  into  lakes  of  brackish  water.  It  was  not  till  the  diluvial 
epoch  that  those  subsidences  which  created  the  Sea  of  Marmora 
brought  the  Black  Sea  also  into  connection  with  the  Mediterranean. 
Through  the  Sea  of  Marmora  there  must  once  have  flowed  a  great 
river,  into  whose  valley  the  sea  afterwards  penetrated  from  the 
south,  forming  the  Dardanelles  and  the  Bosporus  of  the  present 
day.  Travellers  on  the  Rhine  will  observe  an  interesting  resem- 
blance between  these  straits  and  the  Rhine  Valley  between  Bingen 
and  Coblenz.  Like  these  straits  the  Black  Sea  also  is  a  great 
trough  hollowed  out  between  lofty  stratified  mountains.  On  three 
sides  its  bold  rocky  coasts  are  inhospitable  and  forbidding.  On  the 
north  it  is  bounded  by  the  'steppe',  a  plateau  of  primitive  form- 
ation, no  less  monotonous  than  the  desert-plateau  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Mediterranean,  yet  cultivable  owing  to  its  more  northern 
situation.  At  two  places  on  this  side,  through  gaps  in  the  mountain 
rampart,  the  sea  has  overflowed  the  plateau,  forming  the  shallow 
Gulf  of  Odessa  and  Sea  of  Azov.  Two  great  routes  of  traffic  were 
thus  opened  up  from  the  Black  Sea  into  the  heart  of  Eastern  Europe 
and  even  of  Central  Asia,  enriching  the  world's  commerce  with  the 
products  of  these  regions,  and  at  the  same  time  forming  the  portal 
through  which  Byzantine  culture  and  Greek  Christianity  found 
their  way  into  Russia.  Through  these  passages  great  masses  of 
cold  northern  air  are  poured  into  the  Black  Sea;  but  between  them 
the  Peninsula  of  the  Crimea,  a  relic  of  the  broken-down  mountain- 
girdle,  still  stands  boldly  forth,  giving  shelter  to  an  almost  Mediter- 
ranean vegetation  on  its  southern  coast.  On  that  coast  lies  the  ad- 
mirable harbour  of  Sebastopol.  Nearer  the  Sea  of  Azov  once  lay 
the  flourishing  Greek  colonies  of  Pantikapaeon  and  Phanagoria, 
and  in  the  middle  ages  the  Genoese  settlements  of  Sudak  (Kertch) 
and  Kajfa  (Theodosia  or  Feodossiya).    As  the  corn  of  Southern 


GEOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  xxxv 

Russia  is  now  the  chief  export  from  Odessa  to  London  and  Ant- 
werp, so,  from  the  14th  century  onwards,  quantities  of  Russian 
caviare  were  brought  by  Italian  merchants  from  Kaffa  to  Bruges, 
which  was  then  one  of  the  world's  greatest  markets. 

The  Climate  of  the  Mediterranean  is  very  equable.  In  every 
age  northerners  have  been  attracted  by  the  mildness  of  the  win- 
ters, when  the  occasional  storms  and  heavy  rains  are  of  short 
duration  and  are  soon  succeeded  by  bright  sunshine.  The  heat  of 
su miner  is  tempered  everywhere,  especially  on  the  more  southern 
coasts,  by  refreshing  sea-breezes.  The  farther  south  one  goes,  the 
longer  the  dry  season  lasts.  At  Tripoli,  for  example,  it  lasts  for 
seven  months  and  at  Alexandria  for  ten.  The  subtropical  maximum 
air-pressure  over  the  eastern  Atlantic,  by  which  rainfall  and  wind- 
movements  are  determined,  is  usually  continued  in  winter  past  the 
southern  limit  of  the  Mediterranean  (comp.  p.  29),  thus  bringing 
the  whole  of  that  sea  within  the  zone  of  the  changeable  and  rainy 
winds  of  Central  Europe.  In  summer  the  pressure  lies  farther  to 
the  north,  producing  in  most  parts  of  the  Mediterranean  steady 
northerly  currents  of  air.  The  climate  is  tempered  also  by  the 
warmth  of  the  sea  itself.  The  bar  at  the  west  entrance  of  the  Straits 
of  Gibraltar  (p.  xxix)  keeps  out  the  cold  water  of  the  deep  Atlantic, 
but  allows  the  influx  of  the  warmer  surface-water  to  compensate 
for  what  the  Mediterranean  loses  by  evaporation.  This  loss  would 
otherwise  amount  to  a  depth  of  10-15  ft.  per  annum.  The  influx 
of  water  from  the  Atlantic  causes  a  current  to  flow  along  the  North 
African  coast  from  west  to  east,  but  its  thermal  effects  are  soon 
lost.  In  summer  the  surface  of  the  Mediterranean  is  heated  by  the 
sun  up  to  75-82°  Fahr. ;  but  the  temperature  diminishes  rapidly 
down  to  a  depth  of  about  1000  feet,  where  it  reaches  a  uniform 
minimum  corresponding  with  the  surface  temperature  of  February, 
the  coolest  month  in  the  year.  This  in  the  north-western  basin  is 
55°  Fahr.  only,  and  in  the  south-eastern  SG1/^,  but  it  suffices  to 
temper  the  cold  winds  of  winter,  while  additional  warmth  is  brought 
from  time  to  time  by  the  hot  sirocco  from  the  interior  of  Africa 
(comp.  p.  321).  It  may  be  stated  generally  that  the  winter  temper- 
ature on  the  Mediterranean  averages  14°  Fahr.  above  that  of  almost 
all  other  regions  in  the  same  latitude.  The  warmest  places  are  of 
course  those  on  the  coasts  facing  the  south  and  sheltered  from  the 
north,  while  the  average  temperature  rises  gradually  from  south- 
east to  north-west. 

The  Vegetation  is  rich  and  varied.  Evergreens  abound,  being 
better  able  to  stand  the  long  droughts  than  deciduous  trees  and 
shrubs.  Among  the  forest-trees  in  the  warmer  regions  the  com- 
monest are  pines,  including  stone-pines,  and  oaks  of  the  evergreen 
and  other  varieties.  The  underwood  (macchia,  maquis,  or  gar- 
rigue,   Grk.  ^hryyana)  is   composed   of  mastic-bushes  (Pistacia 


xxxvi  GEOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH 

lentiscus),  myrtles,  arbutus-trees  (Arbutus  ungdo),  broom,  tree- 
like heaths  (Erica  arborea  and  scoparia),  resinous  and  aromatic 
cistus-shrubs  with  large  blossoms  resembling  wild  roses,  and  climb- 
ing-plants of  many  varieties.  Most  prominent  among  trees  in  the 
cultivated  lands  is  the  silver-grey  olive,  which,  as  well  as  the  vine 
and  the  fig-tree,  has  thriven  here  from  the  earliest  times  and  is 
the  most  characteristic  feature  in  every  Mediterranean  landscape. 
Most  of  the  other  fruit-trees  also  have  been  known  here  since 
remote  antiquity.  The  fruit  of  the  date-palm  attains  perfection  in 
the  oases  of  North  Africa  only  (comp.  p.  171),  but  the  tree  bears 
fruit  on  the  Spanish  coast,  and  is  very  popular  as  an  ornamental 
tree  on  the  French  and  Italian  Riviera  and  in  other  sheltered  situ- 
ations. Lemons  were  introduced  by  the  Arabs,  and  oranges  were 
brought  from  southern  China  by  the  Portuguese  about  the  middle 
of  the  16th  century.  Many  other  foreign  trees  and  plants  have 
been  introduced  since  then.  Aloes  and  opuntias,  which  now  grow 
wild  and  are  often  regarded  as  characteristic  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean, were  introduced  from  America.  In  the  beautiful  and  luxur- 
iant gardens,  especially  in  Italy,  on  the  French  Riviera,  and  in 
Algeria,  the  flora  of  almost  every  quarter  of  the  globe  is  re- 
presented. 

No  less  varied  and  interesting  are  the  Inhabitants  of  the 
Mediterranean  lands,  who  belong  to  three  distinct  continents,  and 
who  differ  widely  in  race  and  language,  in  religion  and  culture. 
In  remote  mountain-regions  there  still  exist  peoples,  like  the 
Basqxies  and  the  Albanians,  who  belong  to  the  oldest  races  in 
Europe.  In  the  south  and  the  east  dwell  Arabs  and  Turks,  com- 
paratively recent  immigrants  from  the  steppes  of  Asia.  On  one 
side,  as  in  Southern  France,  is  witnessed  the  height  of  civili- 
zation; on  the  other,  as  in  Albania  and  many  parts  of  Northern 
Africa,  the  population  is  sunk  in  the  depths  of  ignorance.  The 
dwellers  in  the  west  profess  the  Roman  Catholic  faith,  those  in 
the  east  belong  to  the  Greek  Catholic  church,  while  they  differ 
materially  in  culture  also.  Christianity  again  is  antagonistic  to 
Islam,  which  prevails  in  Turkey,  Asia  Minor,  Syria,  and  North 
Africa.  The  inhabitants  of  the  Atlas  regions,  of  Tripolitania,  and 
of  Barca  are  Berbers  (p.  94),  who  are  neither  Arabs  nor  Turks, 
but  are  more  akin  to  the  Europeans.  The  Osman  Turks  of  the 
Balkan  Peninsula  and  Asia  Minor  have  been  so  blended  with 
Mediterranean  races  that  they  now  retain  little  of  their  original 
Mongolian  character.  Entirely  distinct  again  from  the  Arabs  are 
the  Aramaic  Syrians,  although  they  speak  Arabic,  and  so  too  are 
the  Felldhin  of  Egypt.  Most  mixed  perhaps  of  all  is  the  blood  of 
the  Modern  Greeks. 


I.   FROM  ENGLAND  TO  THE  MEDITER- 
RANEAN BY  THE  PORTUGUESE  COAST. 


Route  Page 

1.  From  England  via  Oporto  and  Lisbon  to  Gibraltar  or 

Tangier  (Marseilles  and  Genoa) 1 

2.  Lisbon 6 

a.  Cidade  Baixa,  Lisboa  Occidental  and  Oriental,  10.  — 
b.  The  Streets  on  the  Tagus.  Beleni,  13.  —  c.  Excursion 
to  Cintra,  15. 


1.  From  England  via  Oporto  and  Lisbon 
to   Gibraltar  or   Tangier  (Marseilles   and 

Genoa). 

1.  To  Gibraltar  Direct.  The  chief  Steamboat  Lines  (offices,  comp. 
pp.  xviii-xx)  are  the  Peninsular  &  Oriental  Co.,  once  weekly  from  London 
to  Gibraltar,  Marseilles,  Port  Said,  etc. ;  the  Orient  Royal  Line,  fort- 
nightly from  London  to  Gibraltar,  Marseilles,  Naples,  Port  Said,  etc.; 
the  North  German  Lloyd,  fortnightly  from  Southampton  to  Gibraltar, 
Algiers,  Genoa,  Naples,  Port  Said,  etc. ;  the  Anchor  Line  almost  weekly 
from  Liverpool  or  Glasgow  for  Gibraltar,  Marseilles,  Genoa,  Leghorn, 
Naples,  Palermo,  Port  Said,  etc.;  fares  to  Gibraltar  in  all  these  from 
121.  2s.  downwards.  Less  expensive  are  the  Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Co.'s 
steamers,  fortnightly  from  Loudon;  and  from  Liverpool,  the  Moss  Line 
fortnightly  and  the  Papayanni  Line  occasionally;  fares  in  all  these  range 
from  GL  to  SI. 

2.  Coasting  Steamers.  Hall  Line,  weekly  from  London  to  Lisbon, 
Gibraltar,  Malaga,  and  Cadiz:  the  Pacific  Line,  fortnightly  from  Liver- 
pool to  La  Rochelle-Pallice  (for  Bordeaux),  Corunna,  Vigo,  Leixoes  (for 
Oporto),  Lisbon,  and  St.  Vincent  (Cape  Verde),  and  thence  to  S.  America 
(passengers  for  the  Mediterranean  requiring  of  course  to  tranship  at 
Lisbon  or  St.  Vincent);  the  Nederland  Royal  Mail  Steamers,  fortnightly 
from  Southampton  for  the  Mediterranean  and  Batavia,  touch  at  Lisbon, 
and  so  also  those  of  the  Rotterdam  Lloyd,  fortnightly  from  Southampton, 
for  Tangier,  the  Mediterranean,  and  Batavia;  Yeoward  Bros.  Line,  weekly 
from  Liverpool  to  Lisbon;  Booth  Line,  thrice  monthly  from  Liverpool  to 
Havre,  Vigo,  Leixoes  (for  Oporto),  etc. ;  EUerman  Line,  weekly  from  Liver- 
pool to  Lisbon  and  Oporto;  the  steamers  of  the  German  East  African 
Line,  once  every  three  weeks  from  Southampton,  call  at  Lisbon,  Tangier, 
Marseilles,  and  Naples,  on  their  way  to  Port  Said;  the  Atlantic  liners  of 
the  Hamburg-American  and  Hamburg  &  South  American  Cos.,  calling 
several  times  monthly  at  Southampton,  also  touch  occasionally  at  Lisbon; 
Royal  Holland  Lloyd,  monthly  from  Dover  to  Boulogne,  Corunna,  Vigo, 
Lisbon,  etc. ;  the  vessels  of  the  Cbmpaflia  Traeatldntica,  monthly  from 
Liverpool,  call  at  Corunna,  Vigo,  Lisbon,  Cadiz,  Cartagena,  Valencia, 
Barcelona,  and  Genoa,  on  their  voyages  to  Colombo  and  Manila. 

3.  Excursion  Steamers.  Many  of  the  above  companies  and  others 
besides  organize  Mediterranean  cruises  and  circular  tours  at  very  reason- 
able fares,   whereby  everything  is  made  easy  and  oomfortable;  but  the 

Baedeker's  Mediterranean.  1 


2     Route  1.  LA  PALLICE.  From  England 

more  enterprising  and  independent  traveller  will  greatly  prefer  to  piece 
his  tour  together  for  himself,  combining  the  various  routes  to  suit  his 
own  convenience,  and  often  lingering  for  days  in  profoundly  impressive 
historic  places  or  amid  glorious  scenery,  where  the  hurriedly  conducted 
tourist  can  spend  a  few  hours  only.  Among  the  excursion  steamers  may 
be  mentioned  the  'Vectis'  of  the  Peninsular  &  Oriental  Co.,  which  offers 
a  trip  of  10  days  from  London  to  Lisbon,  Gibraltar,  Tangier,  Malaga, 
and  Marseilles  for  10-15  guineas,  and  another,  of  21  days,  from  Marseilles 
to  Palermo,  Constantinople,  the  Piraeus,  Naples,  and  Marseilles,  for 
21-40  gs.  Similar  cruises  are  offered  by  the  Canard  Line,  starting  from 
Liverpool  for  the  Mediterranean  and  Adriatic,  the  Orient  Royal  Line  from 
London  (20  days;  fares  from  18  gs.),  and  by  'Continental  Travel'  (5  Ends- 
leigh  Gardens,  London),  some  of  the  last-named  (either  from  Southampton 
or  from  Marseilles)  extending  to  Egypt  and  the  Holy  Land,  and  lasting 
from  13  to  34  days  (fares  10-26  gs.).  —  The  voyage  from  London  to  Lis- 
bon (about  1170  M.)  usually  takes  3y2  days,  and  thence  to  Gibraltar  (about 
350  M.)  one  day  more ;  but  some  of  the  steamers  take  longer,  while  much 
of  course  depends  on  the  number  of  ports  called  at  and  on  the  length  of 
stay  made  at  each.  For  details  as  to  the  sailings,  which,  as  well  as  fares, 
are  liable  to  frequent  alteration,  application  should  be  made  to  the  var- 
ious companies,  or  to  Messrs.  Tlios.  Cook  &  Son  (Ludgate  Circus,  Lon- 
don, E.C.)  or  other  tourist- agencies. 

To  Gibraltar  Direct.  As  indicated  at  p.  1,  most  of  the  great 
steamers  bound  for  Port  Said,  India,  Australia,  and  other  distant 
parts  steer  for  Gibraltar  direct. 

Of  the  Coasting  Steamers  to  Gibraltar  some  touch  at  Lisbon 
only,  others  at  Leixoes  (or  Oporto)  and  Lisbon,  and  others  again 
at  various  additional  stations.  All  the  important  stations  are  here 
mentioned  in  their  order. 

The  Hamburg-American  steamers  call  at  Boulogne  (see  Baede- 
ker's N.  France)  to  take  up  passengers  for  Lisbon  and  America. 
Most  of  the  vessels  pass  the  Cap  de  la  Hague,  a  little  to  the 
N.W.  of  Cherbourg,  and  the  Channel  Islands,  which  belong  to 
Great  Britain.  The  first  of  these  is  Alderney  (Fr.  Aurigny) ;  next 
comes  the  islet  of  Burhou;  beyond  it,  behind  the  dangerous  rocks 
called  the  Casquets,  marked  by  a  triple  flashing  light,  lies  Guernsey 
('green  island'),  and  farther  away,  to  the  left,  is  Jersey.  The 
coast  of  Brittany  or  Bretagne  is  visible  in  clear  weather  only. 

All  the  steamers  leave  the  English  Channel  near  Ushant  (Oues- 
sant;  lighthouse) ,  an  island  near  the  coast  of  Brittany,  and  steer 
to  the  S.S.W.  across  the  Bay  of  Biscay  (Viseaya),  where,  even 
in  fine  weather,  the  heavy  swell  of  the  open  Atlantic  is  distinctly 
felt.  The  steamers  of  the  Pacific  Line  and  of  the  Rotterdam  Lloyd 
touch  at  La  Pallice,  3  M.  from  La  Rochelle.  From  La  Rochelle, 
an  interesting  historic  town,  by  railway  to  (145  M.)  Bordeaux,  see 
Baedeker's  Southern  France.  The  Bay  of  Biscay  is  bounded  on  the 
S.  by  the  N.  coast  of  Spain,  with  which  the  W.  coast  of  France 
forms  a  right  angle.  In  this  angle,  far  to  the  E.  of  the  steamer's 
course,  lie  Bayonne  and  the  famous  health  resort  of  Biarritz.  To 
the  S.W.  of  the  latter  is  (8  M.)  St.  Jean  de  Luz,  and  8  H.  farther 
is  Hendaye,  on  the  Spanish  frontier  (see  Baedeker's  S.  France). 


to  Gibraltar.  OPORTO.  1-  Route.      3 

In  Spain,  12  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  frontier,  is  situated  San  Se- 
bastian, a  strikingly  picturesque  town  and  fashionable  seaside 
resort;  ll1  j2  M.  farther  to  the  W.  lies  Bilbao,  famed  for  its  iron 
and  steel,  74  M.  beyond  which  is  Santander,  with  its  important 
harbour.  About  280  M.  farther  to  the  W.  are  the  N.W.  headlands 
of  Spain  which  mark  the  S.W.  end  of  the  Bay  of  Biscay. 

The  steamers  of  the  Pacilic  Line,  the  Compaiiia  Trasatlantica, 
and  some  others  next  call  at  Coruima,  Span.  La  Goruna,  a  pictur- 
esque and  important  seaport  famed  in  history,  and  the  chief  arsenal 
of  N.  Spain  (see  Baedeker's  Spain  and  Portugal;  debarkation  or 
embarkation  1  peseta).  Time  permitting,  passengers  may  spend 
an  hour  or  two  on  shore  in  walking  through  the  new  town  (Pesca- 
deria)  and  the  loftily  situated  old  town  (Ciudad  Vieja),  and  in 
ascending  to  the  Torre  de  Hercides  (185  ft.;  lighthouse),  about 
I  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  for  the  sake  of  the  splendid  view  it 
affords.  Some  35  M.  to  the  W.  of  Corunna  lie  the  small  Sisargas 
Islands,  beyond  which  all  the  vessels  steer  to  the  S.,  past  Cabo 
Yillano  (lighthouse),  Cabo  Torlnana (lighthouse),  and  CapeFinis- 
terre.  To  the  E.,  in  clear  weather,  we  may  descry  the  long  outlines 
of  the  Galician  mountain-range  ('sierra').  Beyond  Cape  Finisterre 
we  pass  a  number  of  far-penetrating  inlets  (rias)  which  abound 
on  the  "W.  coast  of  Galicia.  Many  steamers  touch  also  at  Vigo, 
a  seaport  and  sea-bathing  place  most  picturesquely  situated  on  the 
Eia  de  Vigo,  the  southmost  inlet  of  Galicia,  which  runs  19  M. 
inland  (debarkation  or  embarkation  1  peseta).  Pine  view  near  the 
lofty  Castillo  del  Castro,  to  the  S.  of  the  town.  Some  eight  or  nine 
hours'  steaming  carries  us  from  Vigo,  past  the  mouth  of  the  Minho, 
the  boundary  between  Spain  and  Portugal,  to — ■ 

Leixoes  (pron.  layshoengsh;  Brit,  vice-consul,  T.  Coverley), 
the  first  Portuguese  port,  lying  at  the  mouth  of  the  little  river  Leca 
and  forming  the  outer  harbour  of  Oporto.  About  21/2  M.  farther  to 
I  he  S.  is  the  mouth  of  the  Douro,  usually  entered  by  the  smaller 
steamers  bound  for  (3^2  ^0  Oporto  itself. 

Passengers  who  wish  to  go  ashore  at  Leixoes  are  conveyed  by  motor- 
boat  or  rowing-boat  (about  225  reis  or  Is.,  and  half  as  much  more  for 
luggage)  to  the  custom-house.  Visitors  with  heavy  luggage  require  to 
take  the  train  (Leca  station,  near  the  Alfandega  or  custom-house)  to 
Oporto  (Estacao  da  Boa  Vista,  in  the  N.  of  the  town);  others  may  take 
the  electric  tramway  (120  rs.),  running  from  Leixoes  through  the  villa- 
suburb  of  Le$a  <la  Palmeira  and  the  watering-places  of  3Iattosinhos  and 
Sao  Joao  da  Foz,  and  up  the  right  bank  of  the  Douro,  to  Oporto  (about 
">  M.,  in  1  hr.).  It  goes  as  far  as  the  Praca  de  Dom  Pedro;  but  those  in 
haste  will  alight  in  the  fiua  do  Infante  Dom  Henrique  (comp.  p.  4). 

Oporto.  —  Hotels.  *Hut.  do  Porto,  Hot.  de  Paris,  Hot.  dq  Franc- 
fort,  etc.  —  Cafe-Restaurant  International,  Praca  de  Dom  Pedro  14;  Cafe 
Suisse,  same  square,  No.  122;  Cafi  Marques,  in  the  Crystal  Palace. 

Cab  500  rs.,  or  about  2s.  3(7.,  per  hour. 

Consuls.   British,  H.  Grant. — United  States  Consular  Agent,  W.  Si 
—  English  Church  (St.  James's),  in  the  Campo  Pequeno,  to  the  N.  of  the 
Crystal  Palace. 

1* 


4     Route  1.  OPORTO  From  England 

Oporto,  or  briefly  Porto  ('harbour')  in  Portuguese,  is  a  busy  commercial 
town  of  172,400  inhab.,  the  industrial  capital  of  N.  Portugal,  and  the  place 
from  which  the  famous  wines  of  the  upper  valley  of  the  Dotiro  are  chiefly 
exported.  It  lies  3V2  M.  from  the  sea,  on  the  lofty  right  bank  of  the 
Douro,  which  has  forced  its  passage  here  through  the  granite  rock.  The 
old  town,  with  its  quaint  balconied  houses,  whose  walls  are  often  faced 
with  coloured  tiles,  rises  in  terraces  on  the  rocky  slopes.  The  new  town 
lies  on  a  lofty  plateau  to  the  N.,  E.,  and  W.  of  the  old. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Rua  do  Infante  Dom  Henrique  is  the  Exchange 
(Bolsa),  with  its  showy  hall  in  the  Moorish  style.  To  the  E.  of  it  stands 
the  Monument  of  Prince  Henry  the  Navigator  (p.  5).  Adjoining  the 
exchange  is  the  Gothic  church  of  Sao  Francisco  (entrance  on  the  W. 
side),  containing  elaborate  gilt  wood-carving  of  the  17-lSth  centuries.  Near 
the  E.  end  of  the  Rua  do  Infante  Dom  Henrique  is  the  so-called  English 
Factory  House  (Associagao  Britannica),  an  imposing  building  erected  by 
an  Englishman  in  1785  and  now  used  as  a  kind  of  club.  The  nearest 
tramway-car  conveys  us  to  the  PraQa  de  Dom  Pedro,  the  business  centre 
of  the  city,  with  an  Equestrian  Statue  of  Pedro  IV.  (p.  11)  commemorating 
the  granting  of  the  constitution  (1826).  We  ascend  to  the  W.  by  the 
steep  Canada  dos  C16rigos  to  the  church  of  Igreja  dos  Clerigos  (427  ft.), 
the  tower  of  which  (246  ft.;  ticket  of  admission  100  rs.)  commands  a  pano- 
ramic view  of  the  city,  the  river,  and  the  coast.  Adjoining  the  church 
on  the  W.  is  the  Campo  dos  Martyres  da  Patria,  with  the  beautiful 
grounds  of  the  Jardim  da  Cordoaria.  We  next  proceed  by  the  electric 
tramway  'Palacio'  to  the  Crystal  Palace  (adm.  20,  50  or  100  rs.)  with  its 
beautiful  pleasure-grounds  and  superb  view  of  the  city,  the  river,  and 
the  sea.  The  same  electric  tramway,  now  entitled  the  'Praga  de  Dom 
Pedro',  returns  via  the  Rua  da  Cedofeita  to  the  Pra<ja  de  Dom  Pedro ; 
we,  however,  change  tramway-cars  in  the  former  and  proceed  by  the  tram- 
way 'Campanha'  via  the  Praga  de  Dom  Pedro  to  the  pretty  Jardim  de  S&o 
Ldzaro.  From  the  S.W.  angle  of  the  garden  the  Rua  das  Fontainhas 
descends  to  the  Passeio  das  Fontainhas  with  a  view  of  the  river,  its  S. 
bank,  and  both  bridges.  Following  this  promenade  to  the  W.  we  reach 
the  Largo  da  Policia  with  a  fountain,  where  remains  of  the  City  Walls 
are  to  be  seen.  Hence  the  Rua  de  Saraiva  de  Carvalho  leads  us,  before  it 
descends  in  an  abrupt  curve  to  the  left,  into  the  vicinity  of  the  Se",  or 
Cathedral,  now  almost  entirely  modernized.  We  may  now  traverse  the 
upper  roadway  (toll  5  rs. ;  tramway-car  if  desired)  of  the  magnificent 
Ponte  de  Dom  L/uiz  Primeiro,  spanning  the  Douro  with  a  single  iron 
arch  of  564  ft.  On  the  S.  bank,  on  an  eminence  immediately  to  the  left, 
lies  the  ruinous  Augustine  convent  of  Nossa  Senhora  da  Serra  do  Pilar 
where  Wellington  effected  his  celebrated  passage  of  the  Douro  against 
the  French  (1809).  The  view,  especially  from  the  dome  of  the  church, 
is  very  fine.  We  make  our  way,  at  first  by  steps,  then  by  a  steep 
descent,  to  the  lower  roadway  of  the  bridge.  Returning  to  the  N.  bank 
of  the  Douro  we  follow  the  Rua  Cima  do  Muro  to  the  Prac,a  da  Ribeira 
which  affords  an  insight  into  popular  life  and  commands  a  striking  retro- 
spect of  the  Ponte  de  Dom  Luiz.  In  the  neighbourhood  we  may  take 
the  electric  tramway  'Le^a'  which  conveys  us  back  to  Leixoes.  In  the 
reverse  direction  we  regain  the  Praqa  de  Dom  Pedro.  —  Comp.  Baedeker's 
Spain  and  Portugal. 

While  the  greater  Ocean  Steamers  rarely  sight  the  laud,  those 
bound  for  Lisbon  skirt  the  flat  Portuguese  coast  for  some  150  M., 
from  Oporto  to  Cabo  Carvoeiro,  steering  past  the  Berlengas  Is- 
lands (lighthouse),  and  then  rounding  the  Serra  de  Cmira  (p.  15), 
which  ends  in  the  Cabo  da  Roca  (472  ft.),  the  westmost  point  of 
Europe,  with  its  great  lighthouse.  Passing  the  Cabo  Raso,  we 
now  steer  due  E.  into  the  Bay  of  Cascaes,  the  'Riviera'  of  Portugal, 


to  Gibraltar.        STRAITS  OF  GIBRALTAR.  '•  Route.     5 

and  enter  the  month  of  the  Tagus  (Tejo),  where  the  lighthonses  of 
Torre  de  Sao  Juliao  and  Torre  de  Bugio  rise  conspicuously.  On 
the  left  we  next  observe  the  Torre  de  Belem  and  the  extensive 
streets  of  Lisbon  (see  R.  2). 

Leaving  Lisbon,  several  of  the  great  liners  steer  due  W.  across 
the  Atlantic  to  America.  Other  vessels  head  to  the  S.W.  for  Madeira 
(p.  17),  and  others  again  due  S.,  past  the  Cabo  de  Espichel,  on 
their  way  to  Gibraltar  or  Tangier.  About  120  M.  to  the  S.  of  Lis- 
bon we  are  off  *Cape  St.  Vincent  (Cabo  de  Sao  Vicente),  the  an- 
cient Promontorium  Sacrum.  This  huge  rocky  plateau,  with  its 
reddish-brown  precipices  rising  sheer  above  the  sea,  presents  an 
imposing  appearance.  Just  beyond  it  are  an  old  monastery  and  a 
lighthouse  and  then  the  Cabo  Sagres.  Between  these  capes  we 
obtain  a  glimpse  of  the  dreary  and  sun-burnt  interior  of  the  conn- 
try,  with  its  few  poor  villages.  Beyond  the  Cabo  Sagres  lies  the 
little  town  of  Sagres,  founded  by  Henry  the  Navigator  (1421)  as 
headquarters  for  his  voyages  of  exploration.  Both  before  and  after 
rounding  these  two  capes  we  sometimes  obtain  a  pleasant  view  of 
the  Serra  de  Monchique  (2963  ft.),  and  before  leaving  the  coast 
of  Algarve  we  may  distinguish  the  little  towns  of  Lagos  and  Albu- 
feira  and  the  Cabo  de  Santa  Maria.  Steering  now  due  E.,  the 
smaller  trading-vessels  call  at  Huelva,  a  little  beyond  the  Spanish 
frontier,  noted  as  the  shipping-port  for  the  great  Tharsis  and  Rio 
Tinto  mines,  and  as  the  starting-point  of  Columbus  (pp.  115,  64) 
for  his  voyage  to  America  in  1492,  while  other  vessels  call  at  Cadiz 
(p.  58) ;  all  the  larger  steamers  however  proceed  direct  across  the 
Hay  of  Cadiz  to  the  S.E.  to  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar,  and  either  call 
at  Gibraltar  itself,  or  pass  it  on  their  eastward  voyage  without 
stopping;  a  certain  number  touch  at  Tangier  (p.  98). 

The  *Struits  of  Gibraltar,  anciently  called  Fretum  Gadita- 
num  or  Herculeum  (comp.  Map,  p.  49),  from  Gades  (p.  58)  or  from 
the  Pillars  of  Hercules  (p.  54),  date  from  the  pliocene  age,  when  the 
action  of  tides  and  waves  forced  a  passage  from  the  Atlantic  into 
the  great  inland  cavity  of  the  Mediterranean.  The  straits  are 
widest  at  the  "W.  entrance,  between  Cape  Trafalgar  (p.  58)  on 
the  left,  and  Cape  Spartel  (p.  102)  on  the  right.  The  narrowest 
part  (8  M.)  is  between  the  Punta  Canales  (p.  6)  and  Cape  Ciris 
(p.  123).  The  E.  entrance,  between  Europa  Point  (p.  55)  and  the 
Punta  Santa  Catalina  (p.  123),  is  121/j  M.  in  breadth.  Between 
the  ocean  and  the  inland  sea  run  strong  currents,  the  upper  and 
lighter,  from  W.  to  E.,  sometimes  setting  at  the  rate  of  5  11.  an 
hour,  while  the  lower,  being  more  strongly  impregnated  with  salt 
and  therefore  heavier,  flows  in  the  opposite  direction.  These  cur- 
rents, coupled  with  the  conflict  of  winds  at  the  meeting  of  the 
waters,  often  cause  serions  trouble  to  sailing-vessels. 

To  the  right,  far  to  the  S.E.  as  we  steer  into  the  straits,  ap 


6     Route  2.  LISBON.  Practical 

pears  the  lighthouse  on  Cape  Spartel,  to  the  E.  of  which  opens  the 
bay  of  Tangier  (p.  98),  bounded  on  the  E.  by  Cape  Malabata. 
To  the  left,  on  the  treeless  coast  of  Andalusia  enlivened  only  by 
the  numerous  ancient  watch-towers,  lies  the  town  of  Tarifa,  pre- 
ceded by  an  isthmus  ending  in  the  Punta  Marroqui,  the  sonthmost 
point  of  the  mainland  of  Europe  (36°  N.  lat.). 

The  steamers  then  pass  the  Punta  Candles  and  Punta  del 
Fraile,  round  the  Punta  Carnero,  the  southmost  spur  of  the  Sierra 
de  los  Gazules,  and  enter  the  broad  Bay  of  Algeciras  or  Gibraltar, 
where  they  usually  anchor  in  the  open  roads  of  Gibraltar  (p.  52), 
to  the  N.W.  of  the  government  harbour. 

Prom  Gibraltar  to  Tangier  and  Mogador,  see  RR.  6  b  and  14;  to 
Genoa,  see  R.  15;  to  Naples,  see  R.  16;  to  Marseilles,  see  R.  17. 


2.  Lisbon,  f 

Arrival  by  Ska.  Steamers  arriving  from  Europe  (comp.  R.  1)  usually 
anchor  in  the  Tagus  (Tejo)  near  the  custom-house  (Alfandega;  PI.  P, 
G,  6).  Landing  or  embarking  by  boat  (bote)  ca.  500  rs.,  and  100-200  rs. 
for  each  trunk  or  package,  including  transport  to  the  custom-house 
(bargaining  necessary).  Steamers  from  the  South  (Madeira  and  Brazil), 
cast  anchor  opposite  the  quarantine  station  (Posto  Maritimo  de  Desinfeccao; 
PI.  B,  5);  passengers  are  landed  in  tenders  (1600  rs.);  for  conveyance  of 
luggage  to  the  custom-house  each  piece  200  rs.  As  soiled  linen  is  sometimes 
asked  for,  it  should  be  packed  in  a  separate  bundle  and  given  up  in 
exchange  for  a  metal  token.  A  declaration  has  to  be  filled  up  at  the 
custom-house  (100  rs.) ;  tobacco  and  unused  articles  only  are  dutiable.  In 
the  case  of  the  larger  liners  the  through -passengers  (passageiros  en 
transito)  are  conveyed  without  luggage  to  land,  and  thence  back,  by 
tender;  the  place  and  time  of  return  should  be  ascertained.  Special 
tenders  are  provided  for  the  landing  of  travellers  going  no  farther,  and 
for  their  luggage.  As  a  rule,  fully  half  a  day  is  spent  in  landing  and 
other  formalities  prior  to  settling  down  in  a  hotel.  Hotel-employds  are 
not  permitted  to  convey  passengers  from  the  steamers.  As  the  custom- 
house is  closed  at  sunset,  passengers  arriving  by  steamer  in  the  evening 
must  stay  on  board  till  next  morning. 

The  Central  Railway  Station  (Estag&o  Central  or  Lisboa  Rocio, 
PI.  P,  3;  no  restaurant),  in  the  Rua  Magalhaes  Lima,  a  little  to  the  N.W. 
of  the  Rocio  (p.  11),  is  the  station  for  all  the  through-trains  and  expresses 
to  Paris,  Madrid,  etc.  Lisbon  time  is  37  min.  behind  Greenwich  time,  and 
1  hr.  36  min.  slower  than  mid-European.  —  Office  of  the  International 
Sleeping  Carriage  Co.  (Companhia  Internacional  dos  Wagons-Lits  dos 
Grandes  Espressos  Europeus)   in   the  Avenida  Palace  Hotel  (see  below). 

Hotels  (advisable  to  engage  rooms  beforehand).  *Avenida  Palace 
Hotel  (PI.  a;  F,  3),   adjoining  the  Central  Station,  pens,   from  3000  rs. 

f  Money.  The  monetary  unit  in  Portugal  is  the  real  (equal  to  O.  549 
of  a  centime,  or  roughly  V20  of  a  penny  or  '/io  °f  a  cent),  which  is  used, 
however,  in  multiples  (reis)  only.  The  copper  coins  are  5  rs.,  10  rs., 
and  20  rs.  (vintem.  pi.  vintens).  In  nickel  there  are  pieces  of  50  and 
100  rs.  (tostao,  pi.  tostoes).  In  silver  there  are  coins  of  200,  500  (coroa), 
and  1000  rs.  (i*«  milreis,  worth  about  5  fr.  or  4s.  2d.  or  $  1).  Gold  is  never 
met  with  in  ordinary  traffic.  The  banknotes  are  for  5000  rs.,  10,000  rs., 
and  20,000  rs.  A  sum  of  1000  milreis  is  called  um  conto  da  reis.  —  Small 
amounts  are  often  reckoned  in  tostoes  and  vintens. 


n 


^ 


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V.  ;;::,:""  „ rM 


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Notes. 


LISBON. 


2.  Route. 


upwards:  *Hot.  Bkaganija  (PI.  b;  E,  5),  Rua  Victor  Cordon,  in  a  high 
site,  R.  from  1200  rs.,  B.  350,  dej.  800,  U.  1100  rs.  —  Hot.  he  Ingla- 
tekiia  (PI.  i;  F,  3),  Praga  dos  Restauradores  45,  well  spoken  of;  Hot. 
Cbhtsai  (PI.  c;E,  5),  in  the  lower  town,  commercial,  d^j.  800,  D.  1000, 
pens,  from  2600  rs.;  Hot.  de  i/Europe,  Rua  do  Oarmo  16  (PI.  F,  4),  pens, 
from  2000  rs.—  Hot.  Dubasd  (PI.  k;  E,  4),  Rua  das  Flores  71,  an  English 
family  hotel  in  a  quiet  situation,  pens.  2400-3000  rs.  —  Avenida  Hotel 
i  PI.  li ;  F.  2),  Avenida  da  Liberdade  67,  good  second-class  house. 

Caf^s-Restaurants.  *Tavares,  Rua  do  Mundo  37  (PI.  E,  F,  3),  D.  800 
ami  1000  is.;  Imperial,  Rua  Magalhaes  Lima  124,  opposite  the  Avenida 
Palace  Hotel,  also  superior,  D.  700  rs. ;  Suisso,  Largo  de  Catuoes  8,  oppo- 
site the  E.  side  of  the  Central  Station.  —  Beer.  L'crvejaria  Jansen,  entr. 
near  the  Hot.  Braganca  (see  above;  side-entrance  Rua  do  Alecrim  30); 
Oervejaria  Trindade,  Rua  da  Trindade  110. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (Correio  e  Telegrapho;  PI.  F,  5)  in  the 
Pra?a  do  Commercio,  corner  of  Rua  do  Arsenal,  in  which  last  is  the  entrance 
to  the  poste-restante  office.  Also  numerous  branch-offices  (estacSes 
Hares).  Postage  of  letters  (cartas)  for  Portugal  and  Spain  20  rs. ;  post-cards 
(bilhete  postal)  10  rs. ;  for  abroad  (para  o  estrangeiro)  50  and  20  rs. 
respectively ;  registration-fee  (registado)  50  rs. 

Cabs  (Trens  de  Praca)  in  the  principal  squares,  elegant  vehicles  with 
two  horses  for  2  or  4  pers.,  but  the  tariff  is  high.  The  hirer  should  ask 
the  driver  (cocheiro)  for  a  ticket  or  token  (seiiha).  The  tariff  is  called 
tabella.     'Impedido'  means  engaged. 


Per  drive  (por  corrida) 
Per  hour  (as  horas) 

Two  hours 

Three  hours     .... 
Four  hours 


In  the  old  town  1 

To  the 

suburbs 

1-2  pers. 

3-4  pers. 

1-2  pers. 

3-4  pers 

400  rs. 

500  rs. 

1000  rs. 

1200  rs. 

600  „ 

700  „ 

600  „ 

700  „ 

1200  „ 

1400  „ 

1200  „ 

1400  ., 

1500  „ 

1800  „ 

1500  „ 

M800  .. 

1800  „ 

2200  „ 

1800  „ 

2200  . 

The  city  boundary  is  the  Estrada  da  Circumvallaeao  (p.  9),  and  for 
the  W.  suburbs  Alges  (beyond  Belem).  After  the  first  hour  the  time  is 
reckoned  by  1/i  hours.  If  the  cab  is  dismissed  outside  the  town  the 
driver  is  entitled  to  a  return-fare.  At  night  (1  a.m.  till  sunrise)  the  far«s 
are  doubled.  Luggage  up  to  30  kilos  (66  lbs.)  free,  up  to  50  kilos  (110  lbs.) 
200  rs.,  over  50  kilos  400  rs. 

Taximeter  Cabs  (Trens  com  Taximeter)  are  rather  cheaper. — Motor 
Taximeters  (Atdomovies  da  Praga),  stand  in  the  Rocio  (PL  F,  3,  1),  comp. 
the  tariff  written  in  French. 

Lifts  and  Cable  Tramways  (Ascensores  or  EUvadores),  mostly 
every  3  min.,  from  8  a.m.  to  1  a.m.  The  fare  up  is  called  svbida,  down 
descida,  return  ida  e  volta. 

1.  From  the  Rua  da  Santa  Justa  (PI.  F,  4;  near  the  Rua  Aurea)  to  the 
Lfcrgo  do  C'armo  (PI.  F,  4).    Fare  up  20,  down  10,  return  20  rs. 

2.  From  the  Calcada  da  Gloria  (PI.  F,  3;  W.  side  of  the  Avenida  da 
Liberdade)  to  the  Alameda  de  Sao  Pedro  de  Alcantara  (PI.  E,  F,  3),  20  rs. 

3.  From  the  Pra<;a  de  Camoes  (PI.  E,  4)  to  Sao  Bento  (PI.  D,  3)  and 
the  Largo  da  Estrella  (PI.  C,  2,  3),  50  rs. 

4.  From  the  Rua  da  Palma  (near  the  Theatro  Apollo;  PI.  G,  3)  to  the 
Largo  da  Graea  (PI.  H,  3,  4);  up  40,  down  20  rs. 

5.  From  the  Calijada  da  Lavra  (PI.  F,  3)  to  the  Travessa  do  Thorel 
(PI.  F,  2,  3),  near  the  S.  end  of  the  Campo  dos  Martyrcs  da  Patria,  20  rs. 

Tramways  (C'arris  de  Ferro)  are  to  be  preferred  to  cabs  owing  to 
the  hilly  nature  of  the  towrn  and  the  badly  paved  streets.  The  starting- 
point  of  the  tramway-lines  important  to  the  traveller  is  the  Rocio  (PI.  P,  3 
4);  cars  proceeding  hence  to  the  S.  via  the  Rua  Augusta  return  vi  1  the  Rua 
Aurea.    To  the  W.  cars  follow  the  narrow  Rua  do  Arsenal  to  the  Largo 


8     Route  2.  LISBON.  Practical  Notes. 

do  Corpo  Santo  (PL  B,  5),  where  the  line  forks  into  an  outer  line,  skirt- 
ing the  quay,  and  an  inner  line  (comp.  the  Plan);  on  the  latter  the 
'Santo  Amaro  Pampueha'  car  alone  passes  the  museum  (p.. 14).  On  both 
lines  the  'Belem',  'AlgeV,  or  'Dafundo'  cars  proceed  to  Belem  (p.  14). 
—  The  terminus  of  the  route  is  indicated  on  the  boards  at  either  end 
of  the  cars.  On  the  return-journey,  or,  in  the  case  of  circular  tram- 
ways, in  the  reverse  direction,  cars  have  different  name-boards  (given 
below  in  brackets).  Boards  in  the  streets  bearing  the  word  lparagem' 
indicate  stopping-places  (beckoning  necessary).  —  Pare,  within  the  first 
zone,  30  rs.;  for  every  addit.  zone  10  rs.  extra.  —  The  three  following 
circular  lines  are  of  special  importance. 

1.  'Rio  de  Janeiro '  Car  ['Rocio']:  Rocio - Avenida  da  Liberdade 
(PI.  F,  E,  3-1;  p.  11) -Rua  Alexandre  Herculano  (PI.  E,  1)-Travessa  Sao 
Mamede  (PI.  E,  2)-Rua  da  Escola  Polytechnica  (PI.  E,  2)-Jardim  Botanico 
(p.  ll)-Praga  do  Rio  de  Janeiro  (PI.  E,  2,  3) -Alameda  de  S&o  Pedro  de 
Alcantara  (PI.  E,  F,  3;  p.  ll)-Rua  do  Mundo  (PI.  E,  F,  3,  4)-Rua  do 
Alecrim  (PI.  E,  4,  5)-Rua  do  Arsenal  (PI.  E,  F,  5)-Rua  Aurea  (PI.  F,  5,  4)- 
Rocio.    Fare  all  the  way  (Circulag&o  completa)  50  rs. 

2.  'Rua  Gomes  Freire'  Car  ['Graca']:  Rocio  -Rua  Augusta  (PI.  F,  4)- 
Rua  da  Conceicao  (PI.  F,  b)-Si  (PL  G,  5;  p.  13) -Largo  do  Contador  Mor 
(PL  G,  4;  comp.  p.  13) -S&o  Vicente  de  Fora  (PL  H,  4;  p.  13) -Rua  da 
Graca  (PL  H,  3) -Largo  dos  Quatro  Caminhos  (PL  H,  3),  returning  by  the 
same  route  as  far  as  the  Rua  da  Conceicao  (see  above),  thence  via  Rua 
Aurea,  Rocio,  Rua  da  Palma,  Rua  de  Sao  Lazaro  (PL  G,  3,  2),  Rua  Gomes 
Freire  (PL  G,  2,  1),  Rua  Conde  de  Redondo  (PL  F,  1),  and  the  Avenida 
(p.  11)  to  the  Rocio.     Fare  80  rs. 

3.  'Largo  das  Duas  Egiiejas'  Car  ['Estrella']:  Upper  end  of  Rua 
Garrett  (PL  E,  F,  4) -Rua  do  Alecrim  (PL  E,  4,  5) -Rua  Vinte  e  Quatro 
de  Julho  (PL  E,  D,  5,  4) -[Largo  de  Santos  (PL  C,  4) -Rua  de  Sao  Domingos 
(PLC,  4,  3) -Rua  de  Buenos  Ayres  (PL  C,  3)  -  Largo  da  Estrella  (PL  C,  3,  2)  - 
Rua  Domingos  Sequeira  (PL  C,  2) -Rua  Ferreira  Borges  (PI.  C,  2,  1)-Rua 
do  Campo  de  Ourique  (PL  0,  1)-Rua  Sao  Joao  dos  Bern  Casados  (PL  C, 
D,  1)-Rua  das  Amoreiras  (PL  D,  1)- Largo  do  Rato  (PL  D,  1)-Rua  da 
Escola  Polytechnica  (PL  D,  E,  2,  3)-Jardim  Botanico  (p.  11)  -  Alameda  de 
S&o  Pedro  de  Alcdntara  (p.  11)  -  Rua  do  Mundo  (PL  E,  F,  3,  4)  -  Rua  Garrett. 

Steamers  to  and  from  London,  Liverpool,  Southampton,  S.  America, 
etc.  (comp.  pp.  xviii-xx  and  R.  1).  Also  the  Messageries  Maritimes  from 
Bordeaux  to  Lisbon ;  the  Empreza  Nacional  de  Navegacdo  for  Madeira, 
and  the  Empreza  Insulana  de  Navegacdo  for  the  Azores  (comp.  also  R.  3). 
Agent  for  the  Rotterdam  Lloyd,  German  East  African,  Hamburg-Amer- 
ican, and  Hamburg  &  S.  American  Lines,  E.  George  (p.  9) ;  for  the  Com- 
pafiia  Trasatlantica,  H.  B/trnay  &  Co. 

Banks.  London  &  Brazilian,  Rua  do  Commercio  96;  Cridit  Franco- 
Portiigais,  Rua  Augusta  61;  Banco  de  Portugal,  Rua  Aurea  (entr.  Rua 
do  Commercio  148);    Weinstein  &  Co.,   Rua  do  Commercio  49  (1st  floor). 

Theatres  (from  end  of  Oct.  to  March ;  boxes  are  called  camarotes, 
stalls  cadeiras,  the  pit  platia  geral).  Theatro  de  Sao  Carlos  (PL  F,  4), 
Largo  de  Sao  Carlos,  for  Italian  operas  and  ballet;  Theatro  da  Repu- 
blica  (PL  E,  F,  4,  5),  Rua  Antonio  Maria  Cardoso,  for  Spanish,  Italian,  or 
French  plays  and  operettas;  Nacional  (PL  F,  3),  Praga  de  Dom  Pedro, 
for  Portuguese  plays;  also  several  places  for  variety  entertainments. 

Bull  King  {Praca  de  Touros;  PL  G,  1),  reached  from  the  Rocio  by 
the  'Campo  Pequeno'  or  'Lumiar'  tramway-cars;  parties  should  charter 
cabs  in  good  time  (return-fare  ca.  3000  rs.).  Bull-fights,  less  cruel  than 
in  Spain,  Sun.  and  holidays  (Easter  to  the  end  of  June);  tickets  at  Pra§a 
dos  Restauradores  18. 

British  Minister,  Hon.  Sir  Francis  H.  Villiers,  Rua  Sao  Francisco  de 
Borja  63  (PL  B,  4).  — U.  S.  Minister,  Henry  T.  Gage,  Largo  do  Carmo  18 
(PL  F,  4). 

Consuls.  British,  P.  A.  Somers  Cocks,  Travessa  da  Ribeira  Nova  26; 
vice-consul,  H.  E.  Jones. — U.  S.  Consul-General,  Louis  H.  Aymi,  Ave- 


Situation.  LISBON.  2-  Route.     9 

nida  da  Liherdade  196  (PI.  P,  1);  vice-consul,  H.  E.  Bradford.  —  Lloyd's 
Agents,  Rawes  &  Co.,  Rua  do  Commercio  31  (PI.  F,  5). 

Goods  Agent.  E.  George,  Rua  da  Prata  8  (PI.  F,  5).  — Tourist 
A.GBHTS,  Thos.  Cook  &  Son,  Rua  Aurea  52  (PI.  F,  5). 

Churches.  English  (St.  George's),  with  cemetery  (PI.  C,  2),  Rua 
da  Estrella;  services  at  11  &  7;  chaplain,  Rev.  E.  P.  Lewis,  D.  D.  — 
Presbyterian  (PI.  B,  4),  Rua  da  Arriaga  13;  services  at  11  &  7.30;  minister, 
Rev.  R.  M.  Lithgow. 

Club.  Royal  British  Club,  Rua  de  Sao  Francisco  de  Paula  1  (PI. 
B,  4),  also  for  temporary  members. 

Sights.  The  Churches,  few  of  which  are  interesting,  are  open  from 
7  to  10  a.m.,  the  Cathedral  till  1p.m. 

Museu  d'Artilheria  (p.  14),  on  week-days  10-3,  free. 

Museu  Nacional  das  Bellas  Artes  (p.  14),  Sun.,  Thurs.,  and  holidays, 
11-4,  free;  on  other  days  12-2,  by  leave  of  the  director  obtained  through 
the  attendant.  When  the  main  door  is  closed  the  entrance  is  to  the  left, 
through  the  gateway  of  the  barracks  and  the  garden. 

Museu  Nacional  dos  Coches  (p.  14),  daily,  exc.  Frid.,  12-5,  free. 

Visitors  having  only  a  few  hours  at  their  disposal  on  land  should 
avail  themselves  of  one  of  the  circular  tramway-lines  (p.  7)  to  obtain  a 
general  survey  of  the  town.  The  Graca  Church  (p.  13;  *View)  should  be 
visited  in  the  morning  ('Gracja'  tramway) ;  in  the  afternoon,  Alameda 
de  Sao  Pedro  de  Alcantara  (p.  11)  or  Estrella  Church  (p.  12).  The  trip 
to  Belem  (p.  14)  should  on  no  account  be  omitted. 

Two  Days.  1st.  Forenoon  :  Praqa  do  Commercio  and  Rocio  (pp.  10, 11) ; 
Avenida  da  Liberdade  (p.  11);  *Alameda  de  Sao  Pedro  de  Alcantara 
(p.  11);  *  Botanic  Garden  (p.  11);  Estrella  Church  (p.  12;  *View).  After- 
noon: Belem  (p.  14).  —  2nd.  Excursion  to  *Cintra  (p.  15),  requiring  at  least 
half  a  day.  —  Bull-fights,  see  p.  8. 

Lisbon,  Portuguese  Lisboa,  the  capital  of  the  new  republic  of 
Portugal  (comp.  p.  10),  the  see  of  an  archbishop,  a  fortress,  and 
also  an  important  commercial  city,  with  357,700  inhab.,  lies  in 
38°  42'  N.  lat.  and  9°  11'  W.  long.,  on  the  broad  Bay  of  the  Tagus, 
which  forms  an  excellent  harbour  just  above  the  comparatively 
narrow  (1-2  M.)  mouth  of  the  river  (see  p.  xxix).  The  town  rises 
in  picturesque  terraces,  affording  many  charming  views,  while  the 
luxuriance  of  its  public  gardens  is  almost  unrivalled  in  Europe 
Lisbon  is  certainly  a  very  beautiful  city,  and  its  ardent  admirers 
have  compared  it  even  with  Naples  and  Constantinople. 

The  towu,  which  is  girdled  by  the  Estrada  da  Circumvallagdo, 
a  road  5  M.  long,  consists  of  several  quarters.  On  the  E.  lies  the 
old  town,  or  Lisboa  Oriental,  on  the  slope  of  the  Collina  do  Cas- 
tello.  On  the  low  ground  between  the  old  town  and  the  new  is  the 
( 'iilnde  Baixa,  which  has  sprung  up  since  the  earthquake  of  1755. 
To  the  W.  is  Lisboa  Occidental,  the  modern  quarter.  Along  the 
Tagus  extend  quays  and  docks,  constructed  in  1887,  and,  after  a 
serious  collapse,  restored  in  1894-1905.  The  harbour  is  entered 
by  5000  vessels  annually,  one-third  of  them  being  under  the  British 
flag,  one-tenth  under  the  French,  and  one  tenth  under  the  German. 
The  Portuguese  vessels  are  chiefly  engaged  in  trading  with  the 
country's  African  colonies  and  with  S.  America. 

The  ancient  name  of  Lisbon  was  Ulisipo  or  Olisipo,  which  led  early 
Greek  travellers  and  scholars  to  connect  the  place,  but  erroneously,  with 


10     Route  S.  LISBON.  History. 

tlic  legends  of  Ulysses.  Under  the  Romans,  thanks  to  its  splendid  harbour, 
it  ranked  as  the  "second  city  in  Lusitania,  and  alternately  with  Merida, 
the  capital,  was  frequently  the  residence  of  the  Roman  governors.  From 
407  to  585  it  was  occupied  by  the  Alans,  and  from  585  to  715  by  the 
Visigoths,  and  after  the  battle  of  Veger  de  la  Frontera  (711)  it  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  Moors,  who  called  it  Aloshbuna  or  Lishbuna.  In  1147 
it  was  retaken  by  king  Affo?iso  Henriques,  aided  by  an  army  of  Crusaders. 
The  bulk  of  these  were  Englishmen ;  and  thus  the  siege  of  Lisbon  is 
doubly  interesting  as  it  was  'the  first  instance  of  the  close  connection 
between  the  two  nations  (England  and  Portugal)  which  has  lasted  down 
to  the  present  century'  (H.  M.  Stephens). 

The  importance  of  Lisbon  began  under  Affbnso  III.  (1248-79),  who 
transferred  the  royal  residence  hither  from  Coirubra  (1260).  The  great 
discoveries  made  by  the  Portuguese  at  the  end  of  the  15th  cent.,  and 
the  conquest  of  India  by  Francisco  aV Almeida  (d.  1510)  and  Affonso  de 
Albuquerque  (d.  1515),  greatly  benefited  the  capital,  which  soon  became 
the  richest  town  in  Europe,  and  recovered  rapidly  even  from  the  effects 
of  the  earthquakes  of  1531  and  1575.  But  the  sixty  years  of  Spanish 
dominion  (1580-1640),  the  defeats  of  the  Spanish  and  Portuguese  fleets 
in  the  war  with  Holland,  and  the  loss  of  India  were  severe  trials.  The 
earthquake  of  1755  laid  half  the  city  in  ruins.  The  beginning  of  the 
19th  cent,  brought  the  French  invasion,  the  removal  of  the  royal  residence 
to  Rio  de  Janeiro,  the  Peninsular  War,  the  loss  of  Brazil,  and  the  utter 
decadence  of  Lisbon.  Since  the  period  of  revolutions ,  and  since  the 
partial  bankruptcy  of  the  country  in  1892,  Lisbon  lias  again  risen  from 
a  state  of  decay  to  be  a  great  and  handsome  city,  thanks  largely  to  the 
initiative  of  the  German  Prince  Ferdinand  of  Saxe-C'oburg-Kohary, 
consort  of  Queen  Maria  II.,  and  to  his  sons,  Pedro  V.  (1853-61)  and 
Luis  I.  (1861-89).  Party  strife  in  the  next  reign  led  to  the  dictatorship 
of  the  minister  Joao  Franco,  and  on  1st  Feb.  1908  Lisbon  witnessed  the 
assassination  of  Carlos  I.  and  the  crown-prince  Luis  Philippe  (comp.  p.  14). 
Carlos's  second  son  then  ascended  the  throne  as  Manuel  II.  He  had, 
however,  only  reigned  two  years  when  the  establishment  of  the  Republic 
forced  him  to  go  into  exile  (5th  Oct.,  1910).  President  of  the  provisional 
government  Theophilo  Braga.    The  republican  colours  are  green  and  red 

a.   Cidade  Eaixa,  Lisboa  Occidental  and  Oriental. 

Most  of  the  public  buildings  in  Lisbon,  erected  almost  exclus- 
ively after  the  earthquake  of  1755,  are  situated  in  the  Praca 
do  Commercio  (PI.  F,  5).  In  the  centre  of  the  square  rises  au 
Equestrian  Statue  of  Joseph  I.  (1750-77);  on  the  S.  side  is  the 
Caes  das  Colunmas,  a  quay  affording  a  superb  view  of  the  bay  of 
the  Tagus,  with  its  busy  shipping,  and  of  the  S.  bank  (Outra  Banda), 
with  the  castle-hill  of  Palmella  in  the  distance. 

To  the  N.  of  this  square  begins  the  rectangularly  planned 
Cidade  Baixa  ('lower  city'),  once  a  bay  of  the  Tagus,  the  three 
chief  streets  of  which,  running  to  the  N.,  are  the  Rua  Augusta, 
spanned  by  a  triumphal  arch,  the  Rua  d'Ouro  or  Aurea  (to  the  left), 
and  the  Rua  da  Prata  (to  the  right).  These  streets  afford  interesting 
glimpses  of  the  towering  masses  of  the  houses  of  Lisboa  Occiden- 
tal (to  the  left),  with  the  Carmo  church,  and  of  Lisboa  Oriental 
(to  the  right),  with  the  cathedral  and  the  castle  of  St.  George.  At 
the  N.  end  of  the  Rua  Augusta  and  the  Rua  Aurea  lies  the  — 

Pkaca  de  Dom  Pedro  Quarto  (PI.  F,  3,  4),  commonly  called 


Avenida.  LISBON.  2-  Route.     \\ 

O  Rocio,  one  of  the  chief  tramway  stations  (p.  7).  Owing  to  the 
peculiar  wavy  pattern  of  its  mosaic  pavement  the  Rocio  has  re- 
ceived from  the  British  sailors  the  nickname  'Roly-poly  Square'. 
The  square  is  adorned  with  two  bronze  fountains  and  a  marble 
column  bearing  a  bronze  Statue  of  Pedro  IV.  (d.  1834;  emperor 
of  Brazil,  1S26-31).  Above  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  square  rises 
on  massive  substructures  the  picturesque  ruined  church  of  Igreja 
do  (  armo,  destroyed  by  the  earthquake  of  1755.  We  may  reach 
it  by  the  'ascensor'  No.  1  (p.  7).  On  the  N.  side  rises  the  Theatro 
Narional  (p.  8).  The  Market  in  the  adjacent  Praga  da  Figueira 
(PI.  F,  4),  to  the  E.,  deserves  a  visit  in  the  early  morning. 

From  the  W.  side  of  the  theatre  we  proceed  past  the  Central 
Station  (p.  6)  to  the  *Avenida  da  Liberdade  (PI.  F,  E,  3-1), 
a  magnificent  promenade,  100  yds.  wide  and  more  than  1/2  M.  long, 
with  luxuriant  vegetation,  especially  palms,  and  affording  charming 
views.  It  is  most  frequented  on  Sundays  and  holidays  towards  even- 
ing, when  the  fashionable  world  may  be  seen  driving  and  riding.  At 
the  beginning  of  the  Avenida  is  the  Praga  dos  Restauradores,  with 
the  Monumento  dos  Restauradores  de  Portugal,  recalling  the  re- 
volt of  1640,  when  the  yoke  of  the  Spanish  'Intrusos'  was  shaken  off. 

To  the  left,  at  the  beginning  of  the  Avenida  Promenade,  is  the 
steep  Calgada  da  Gloria,  through  which  a  funicular  tramway  (No.  2; 
p.  7)  ascends  to  the  *  Alameda  de  Sao  Pedro  de  Alcantara 
(PI.  E,  F,  3),  where  we  enjoy  a  magnificent  view  of  the  bay,  to  the 
8.,  and  of  Lisboa  Oriental,  with  St.  George's  Castle  and  the  churches 
of  Graga  and  do  Monte  (p.  13),  to  the  E.  Far  below  lie  the  Avenida 
da  Liberdade,  the  Central  Station,  the  Rocio,  and  the  Baixa. 

From  the  S.  angle  of  the  gardens  the  Rua  do  Mundo  (PI.  E, 
F,  3,  4)  descends  to  the  Largo  da  Misericordia,  and  past  the  Jesuit 
church  of  Sao  Roque,  a  sumptuous  late-Renaissance  edifice  by  Fil. 
Terzi,  an  Italian  architect  (1566),  to  the  Praga  de  Luis  de  Camoes 
(p.  12).  We  proceed,  however,  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Alameda  and 
follow  the  Rua  de  Dom  Pedro  Quinto  to  the  — 

Puaca  do  Rio  de  Janeiro  (PI.  E,  2,  3),  with  a  fountain  and 
attractive  pleasure-grounds,  occupying  the  highest  site  in  Lisboa 
Occidental.  From  the  W.  angle  of  the  grounds  we  obtain  a  fine 
view  of  the  Estrella  church  (p.  12)  and  the  Tagus. 

Proceeding  in  the  same  direction  we  next  follow  the  Rua  da 
Escola  Polytechnica  to  the  Polytechnic  School  (PI.  E,  2),  which 
comprises  an  interesting  Natural  History  Museum  (entrance  on 
the  N.W.  side),  an  Observatory,  and  a  Meteorological  Station. 
To  the  Polytechnic  belongs  also  the  — 

-Botanic  Garden  (PL  E,  2;  open  to  the  public),  founded  in 
1875,  and  for  luxuriance  of  vegetation  the  finest  in  Europe.  The 
lower  part  of  the  garden  contains  a  magnificeut  avenue  of  palms 
and  numerous  southern  plants.  It  is  reached  by  a  road  from  the  S.E. 


12     Route  2.  LISBON.  Estrella  Church. 

angle  of  the  Polytechnic,  and  there  is  a  side-entrance  in  the  Rua 
Nova  da  Alegria.  In  the  upper  part  are  the  Estufas  or  greenhouses. 

We  descend  to  a  lower  exit  of  the  garden  opening  into  the 
Avenida,  cross  the  latter  and  ascend  by  the  Ascensor  da  Lavra 
(p.  7)  to  the  E.  town.  From  the  Campo  dos  Martyres  da  Patria 
(PI.  F,  G,  2),  the  terminus  of  the  funicular,  the  tramway  'Santo 
Andre'  (infrequent  service),  or  the  circular  line  'Gra§a'  below  its 
E.  side,  lead  to  the  Rua  da  Palma  (funicular  No.  4,  p.  7).  There- 
after through  Lisboa  Oriental,  see  below. 

We  may  travel  also  by  the  'Graca'  tramway  (in  returning  called 
'Rua  Gomes  Freire')  in  the  reverse  direction,  starting  from  the  Si  Pa- 
triarchal and  proceeding  to  the  Nossa  Senhora  da  Graca  church  on  the 
way  out,  and  descend  by  the  funicular. 

From  the  Botanic  Garden  the  'Estrella'  tramway  brings  us 
via.  the  Largo  do  Rato  (PI.  D,  1)  to  the  Aqueducto  das  Aguas 
Livres,  constructed  in  1729-49.  It  leads  us  farther  to  Buenos 
Ayres,  the  high-lying  W.  quarter  of  the  city,  to  the  vicinity  of  the 
cemeteries,  and  to  the  Jardim  da  Estrella  (PI.  C,  2). 

The  Estrella  Church  (PI.  C,  3) ,  officially  known  as  the  Ba- 
silica do  Santissimo  Coracdo  de  Jesus,  was  built  in  1779-96.  It 
is  crowned  with  a  lofty  dome  over  the  crossing,  and  its  interior 
is  sumptuously  fitted  up. 

The  *Ascent  or  the  Dome  (entrance  by  5th  door  on  the  right;  fee 
100  rs.)  amply  repays  the  fatigue.  The  stairs  in  the  N.W.  tower  ascend 
first  to  the  flat  roof  of  the  church,  where  we  already  have  a  fine  view. 
We  then  pass  through  the  double  lining  of  the  dome  into  a  gallery  sur- 
rounding its  interior.  A  ladder  finally  leads  to  the  Lantern,  the  view 
from  which  (best  in  the  afternoon)  is  the  most  extensive  in  Lisbon  and 
includes  the  whole  of  the  city,  the  S.  bank  of  the  estuary,  and  the  ocean. 

The  Jardim  da  Estrella  is  flanked  on  the  W.  by  the  Rua  da 
Estrella  which  ascends  to  the  English  Cemetery  (Cemiterio 
doslnglezes;  PI.  C,  2;  visitors  ring;  fee  50-100  rs.),  laid  out  in 
1717,  the  oldest  Protestant  burial-ground  in  Portugal.  It  contains 
the  grave  of  Henry  Fielding  (1707-54),  author  of  the  immortal 
'Tom  Jones'.  Here  too  is  the  English  Church  (p.  9). 

To  return  from  this  point  we  take  the  funicular  No.  3  (p.  7), 
past  the  Palacio  das  Cortes  (PI.  D,  3;  Chamber  of  Deputies), 
to  the  Praca  de  Luis  de  Camoes  (PI.  E,  4;  pron.  Kamoengsh), 
which  is  embellished  with  a  monument  of  the  famous  poet  Camoes 
(1524-80),  the  author  of  the  Lusiads,  a  great  national  epic  cele- 
brating the  noble  deeds  of  his  countrymen. 

From  the  Praga  de  Camoes  we  return  through  the  Rua  Garrett 
and  the  Rua  do  Carmo  (PI.  F,  4),  the  busiest  streets  in  the  town, 
with  the  best  shops,  to  the  Rocio  (p.  11). 


Time  permitting,  we  may  now  pay  a  short  visit  to  Lisboa 
Oriental,  which  is  best  reached  by  the  funicular  line  No.  4  (p.  7). 


Lisboa  Oriental.  LISBON.  2.  Route.      13 

From  the  terminus  in  the  Largo  da  Graga  (PI.  H,  3,  4)  we  pass  round 
the  old  Graga  monastery  (now  barracks)  to  the  church  of — 

Nossa  Senhora  da  Graca  (PI.  G,  H,  3,  4;  262  ft.),  situated  on 
a  hill  which  affords  a  fine  view  of  Lisboa  Occidental  and  the  lower 
town,  while  the  harbour  is  concealed  by  St.  George's  Castle  (see 
below). 

We  now  return  to  the  barracks  just  mentioned  and  enter  the 
Kua  da  Graga  to  the  N. ,  whence  the  Travessa  do  Monte  leads  im- 
mediately to  the  left  to  the  (5  min.)  chapel  of  Nossa  Senhora  do 
Monte  (PI.  G,  H,  3;  328  ft.).  The  extensive  *View  from  this  point 
embraces  the  greater  part  of  Lisbon,  the  harbour,  the  S.  bank,  and 
the  region  to  the  N.E.  as  far  as  Santarem. 

From  the  Rua  da  Graga  the  circular  tramway  'Rua  Gomes 
Freire'  descends  to  the  old  Augustinian  monastery  of  Sao  Vicente 
de  Fora  (PI.  H,  4),  now  the  seat  of  the  Patriarch  of  Lisbon.  The 
church,  a  late-Renaissance  building  of  1582,  lost  its  dome  in  the 
earthquake  of  1755.  The  cloisters  contain  the  Pantheon  Meal,  the 
burial-place  of  the  Portuguese  monarchs  of  the  House  of  Braganza 
from  the  time  of  John  IV.  (d.  1656)  onwards. 

We  take  the  same  circular  tramway-line  as  far  as  the  Largo  do 
Oontador  Mor  (PI.  G,  4).  Thence  we  walk  through  the  Travessa  do 
Funil  to  the  Rua  do  Chao  de  Feira,  and  through  the  St.  George's 
Gateway  to  the  Castello  de  Sao  Jorge  (PI.  G,  4),  an  ancient 
Moorish  stronghold  and  once  a  royal  residence,  but  now  used  as 
barracks  and  a  military  prison,  where  we  apply  at  the  guard-house 
for  leave  to  see  the  fine  view  from  the  S.  Terrace.  If  so  disposed 
we  may  descend  to  the  cathedral,  which  stands  about  halfway  up 
the  castle-hill  and  is  known  as  the  — 

Se  Patriarchal  (PI.  G,  5),  the  oldest  church  in  Lisbon,  founded 
in  1150,  but  rebuilt  in  the  Gothic  style  in  the  14th  cent.,  and  al- 
most entirely  modernized  after  the  earthquake  of  1755.  From  the 
cathedral  the  Rua  da  Conceigao  brings  us  back  to  the  lower  town. 


b.  The  Streets  on  the  Tagus.   Belem. 

In  the  Rua  da  Alfandega,  a  few  paces  to  the  E.  of  the  Praga  do 
Commercio  (p.  10),  rises  the  church  of  — 

Nossa  Senhora  da  Conceicao  Velha  (PI.  'C.V.';  G,  5). 
The  *Fagade,  in  the  richest  'Emmanuel  style'  (see  p.  14),  is  a 
relic  of  the  church  of  Nossa  Senhora  da  Misericordia,  which  was 
destroyed  by  the  earthquake  of  1755.  A  little  farther  on,  between 
Nos.  42  and  44  we  get  a  glimpse  of  the  Casa  dos  Bicos,  built  in 
the  16th  cent,  by  Braz,  a  son  of  Affonso  de  Albuquerque  (p.  10). 
It  derives  its  name  from  the  facetted  stones  of  the  fagade  ('bico' 
meaning  beak  or  point).   All  the  electric  tramways  proceed  farther 


14     Route  2.  LISBON.  Belem. 

to  the  Arsenal  do  Exercito  (PL  H,  4, 5) ,  containing  the  Artillery 
Museum  on  the  first  floor  (adm.,  see  p.  9). 

From  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  Praca  do  Commercio,  where  king 
Carlos  and  the  crown-prince  were  brutally  assassinated  in  1908,  the 
Rua  do  Arsenal  leads  to  the  Largo  do  Municipio  (PI.  F,  5),  in  the 
centre  of  which  stands  a  so-called  Pelourinho,  or  pillory,  as  a  sym- 
bol of  the  civic  jurisdiction. 

The  tramway  'Santo  Amaro  Pampueha'  passes  the  Museu 
Nacional  das  Bellas  Arfces  (PI.  B,  0, 4;  adm.,  see  p.  9),  Rua 
das  Janellas  Verdes  57,  which  contains  art-industrial  collections 
and  a  picture-gallery.  (Note  in  Room  G,  on  the  N.  wall,  No.  282, 
St.  Jerome,  by  Alb.  Dilrer.) 

The  outer  line,  skirting  the  Tagus  and  affording  fine  views, 
passes  the  Mereado,  or  fish-market  (PI.  E,  5),  which  is  worth  see- 
ing in  the  early  morning. 

The  two  'Belem'  tramway-lines  (Alges  andDafundo)  lead  through 
the  suburb  of  Junqueira  to  that  of  Belem  (Brit,  vice-consul, 
C.  J.  F.  Duff).  The  Praga  de  I)om  Fernando  with  a  bronze  statue, 
13  ft.  in  height,  of  Affonso  de  Albuquerque  (p.  10)  is  adjoined  on 
the  N.  by  the  Pa^o  de  Belem.  In  the  S.E.  corner  of  the  building 
is  the  Museu  National  dos  Coehes  (adm.,  see  p.  9),  with  about 
thirty  historical  state-carriages. 

Farther  to  the  W.  we  reach  in  5  min.  the  Pra^a  de  Vasco  da 
Gama,  with  the  famous  — 

**Convento  dos  Jeronymos  de  Belem  (Bethlehem;  tram- 
way from  the  Praga  do  Commercio,  PL  F5,  in  ca.  1/2  hr.).  This 
Hieronymite  monastery,  founded  in  1499  in  memory  of  Vasco  da 
Gama's  voyage  of  discovery,  but  used  as  an  orphanage  (Casa  Pia) 
since  1834,  is  still,  in  spite  of  infelicitous  alterations,  the  most 
brilliant  example  of  the  fantastic  'Emmanuel  style'  (Arte  Manue- 
lina),  of  the  time  of  Emmanuel  I.  the  Great,  a  picturesque  blend  of 
late-Gothic,  Moorish,  and  Renaissance  features  with  motifs  from 
the  gorgeous  edifices  of  the  East  Indies. 

The  church  of  Santa  Maria,  at  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  mon- 
astery, the  burial-place  of  king  Emmanuel  and  his  successors,  has 
a  superb  portal  by  Joao  de  Castilho  (sculptured  by  Nicholas  'the 
Frenchman'),  which,  according  to  Mr.  Fergusson,  resembles  in 
design  and  detail  the  chapel  at  Roslin  (see  Baedeker's  Great 
Britain).  The  church  is  open  from  early  morning  till  9,  and  also 
after  2.30  p.m.  —  Adjoining  the  "W.  portal  of  the  church  is  the 
entrance  (where  we  ring;  fee  100-150 rs.)  to  the  orphanage  and  to 
the  grand  *  Cloisters,  the  master-work  of  Joao  de  Castilho. 

On  the  Tagus,  about  1/2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  monastery,  rises 
the  *Tower  of  Belem  (Torre  de  Belem),  erected  in  1520  to 
guard  the  mouth  of  the  river  (best  viewed  at  a  distance). 


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Cintra.  LISBON.  2-  Route.      15 


c.  Excursion  to  Cintra. 

1772  li.  Kailway  (in  3/4-l  hr.).  Nine  expresses  in  summer,  besides 
several  slow  trains  (tranvias),  but  fewer  in  winter  (fares  530,  360,  230  rs.), 
starting  from  the  Central  Station  (p.  6). 

The  train  passes  through  a  tunnel  l'/2  M.  long  to  (33/4  M.) 
Campolide  in  the  valley  of  the  Alcantara.  To  the  left  are  the  arches 
of  the  aqueduct  (p.  12).  At  (13  M.)  Cacem  our  line  diverges  to 
the  left  from  the  railway  to  Alfarellos  (Coimbra  and  Oporto). 

The  country  becomes  more  hilly;  eucalypti,  pines,  and  olives 
abound.    To  the  left  rise  the  hills  of  Cintra. 

1772  M.  Cintra.  —  Hotels.  *Gr.-H6t.  Costa,  Netto,  Lam-ence, 
Nunes,  Central,  dej,  or  D.  800  rs.,  some  closed  in  winter. 

Tkamway  from  the  station  (to  the  left  of  the  exit)  to  the  Praga  da 
Republics  (20  rs.).  —  Gabs  (good;  with  two  horses)  to  the  Castello  da  Pena 
2500  rs.;  to  the  Quinta  do  Monserrate  and  back,  2000  rs.;  but  lower  fares 
are  often  accepted  on  application  to  the  cab-owner  himself. 

If  time  presses,  we  may  visit  both  the  Castello  da  Pena  and  the 
Quinta  de  Monserrate  in  4-5  hrs.  (cab  -1500  rs.,  bargaining  advisable). 
Energetic  pedestrians  require  scarcely  more  time.  Donkeys,  only  to  be 
recommended  to  gentlemen  travelling  alone,  are  a  doubtful  advantage, 
nor  will  those  in  haste  find  the  services  of  drivers  or  guides  of  much 
avail;  the  usual  price,  after  bargaining,  is  400-500  rs.  But  it  is  more 
enjoyable  to  devote  a  forenoon  to  the  Castello  da  Pena,  and  the  afternoon 
to  the  Paco  de  Cintra  and  the  Quinta. 

Cintra  (680  ft.;  pop.  5000),  a  favourite  summer  resort,  lies  at 
the  N.  base  of  the  granitic  Serra  de  Cintra,  on  a  spur  between 
two  ravines,  amidst  groves  of  evergreen  oaks  and  pines,  and  sur- 
rounded by  charming  country-houses.  Immediately  above  the  little 
town  rises  a  steep  rock,  crowned  by  the  Moorish  castle.  Beyond 
this  rises  the  Pena  with  the  palace. 

The  centre  of  traffic  is  the  Praca  da  Republica,  with  its  late- 
Gothic  Pelourinho  (p.  14)  and  the  main  entrance  to  the  palace. 

The  *Paco  de  Cintra,  formerly  the  Royal  Palace,  was 
begun  by  John  I.  (1383-1433)  on  the  foundations  of  a  Moorish 
palace  and  completed  early  in  the  16th  cent,  by  Emmanuel  the  Great. 
The  older  parts,  built  by  Moorish  hands,  show  a  mingling  of 
Moorish  and  late-Gothic  elements,  while  the  newer  parts,  partic- 
ularly the  E.  wing,  are  in  the  'Emmanuel  style'  (p.  14).  The  most 
characteristic  features  of  the  exterior  are  two  conspicuous  conical 
kitchen-chimneys,  the  horseshoe  and  toothed  arches  of  the  Moorish 
windows,  and  the  Moorish  battlemented  parapet.  The  mural  tiles 
and  the  honeycombed  wooden  ceilings  in  the  interior  are  other 
survivals  of  the  Moorish  period.  Visitors  are  shown  round  by  the 
castellan. 

The  Avenida  Candido  dos  Reis,  the  road  leading  to  the  S.  from 
the  Largo  of  that  name,  brings  us  in  s/4  hr.  to  the  Castello  dos 
Mouros  (1408  ft.).    The  castle  consists  of  two  parts,  to  which  a 


16     Route  2.  LISBON.  Cintra. 

double  wall,  much  modernized,  ascends.  A  visit  to  it  takes  more 
time  than  travellers  in  a  hurry  can  afford. 

About  1ji  hr.  farther  on  we  reach  the  Porta  Principal  of  the 
Park  of  Pena,  where  we  alight  (cameras  must  be  given  up).  The 
officials  are  not  allowed  to  act  as  guides;  the  services  of  others 
should  be  declined.  The  park  contains  over  400  species  of  trees 
and  shrubs. 

The  *Castello  da  Pena  (1732  ft.),  perched  on  a  steep  rocky 
hill,  was  built  in  1840-50  in  the  style  of  a  mediaeval  castle,  partly 
within  an  old  monastery,  by  the  Prince-Consort  Ferd.  of  Coburg. 
The  main  tower  is  a  copy  of  the  tower  of  Belem  (p.  14).  The  castle 
is  approached  by  two  gates  and  a  cutting  in  the  rock  ('corredor'). 
The  'galeria'  of  the  castle  affords  delightful  views. 

In  the  Interior  (adm.  free)  we  pass  through  the  Vestibule,  with  a 
pyramidal  tower,  into  the  old  Convent  Church,  with  its  superb  Renais- 
sance altar  brought  from  Belem,  and  into  the  two-storied  cloisters.  The 
apartments  contain  many  pictures  (including  an  example  of  Adr.  Brouwer) 
and  costly  Hispano-Moorish  majolicas.  The  'Sala  deVeados'  is  embellished 
with  stags'  antlers.  The  *Dome  above  it  is  perhaps  the  finest  point  of 
view  in  the  Serra  de  Cintra,  but  its  ascent  requires  a  steady  head.  The 
eye  ranges  over  Estremadura,  from  Cape  Espichel  on  the  S.E.  to  the  Ber- 
lengas  Islands  (p.  4)  on  the  N.  To  the  N.E.  rises  the  huge  facade  of  the 
palace  of  Mafra.  To  the  E.  we  obtain  glimpses  of  Lisbon  and  the  plain 
to  the  S.  of  the  Tagus.  To  the  S.  rises  the  summit  of  the  Cruz  Alta, 
and  to  the  W.  lies  the  boundless  Atlantic. 

We  now  enter  the  Jardirn  das  Camelias  or  castle-garden, 
where  the  camellias,  rhododendrons,  and  azaleas  present  a  mar- 
vellous wealth  of  blossom  in  spring;  then,  passing  a  well  and 
several  fish-ponds,  we  soon  reach  a  side-exit  from  the  grounds, 
where  the  carriage  should  be  ordered  to  meet  us. 

The  *  Cruz  Alta  (1736  ft.),  the  highest  of  the  Cintra  hills,  which 
affords  a  view  similar  to  that  from  the  dome  of  the  castle,  may  be 
ascended  in  20  min.  by  a  path  diverging  in  the  park  to  the  S.,  near  the 
Porta  Principal,  and  passing  the  Statue  of  Vasco  da  Gama. 

A  favourite  walk  near  Cintra  is  the  *Caminho  de  Collares 
skirting  the  hills.  This  road,  bordered  with  beautiful  evergreens, 
leads  past  charming  country-houses  (the  Penha  Verde  and  others). 
On  the  right,  about  2  M.  from  Cintra,  is  the  famous  — 

**Q,uinta  de  Monserrate  (adm.  200,  on  Sun.  and  holi- 
days 300  rs.),  the  property  of  Sir  Fred.  Cook,  Visconde  de  Monser- 
rate. The  grounds,  a  visit  to  which  takes  1-2  hrs.,  extend  far  over 
hill  and  dale,  and  are  unique  in  Europe  in  magnificence  of  vege- 
tation. From  the  entrance  we  turn  to  the  left,  cross  a  brook,  and 
follow  its  left  bank,  where  we  enjoy  a  delightful  view  of  the  palace 
beyond  the  lofty  tree-ferns.  We  then  pass  an  artificial  ruin,  walk 
round  the  palace  (no  adm.),  and  re-ascend  to  the  entrance. 

See  also  Baedeker's  Spain  and  Portugal. 


II.  MADEIRA  AND  THE  CANAEY  ISLANDS. 


Route  •  Page 

3.  Madeira 17 

Excursions  from  Funchal,  24. 

4.  The  Canary  Islands .     .     28 

Teneriffe,  32.  —  Gran  Canaria,  43. — Palma,  47. 


3.  Madeira. 

Steamboat  Lines.  1.  Union  Castle  Line,  steamers  weekly  from  South- 
ampton to  Madeira  in  3'/.>  days  (on  their  way  to  S.  and.  E.  Africa);  fares, 
1st  cl.  15-17  guineas,  2nd  10-12  gs.  (return  in  each  case  about  2/3more); 
also  summer  tours  to  Madeira,  Las  Palmas,  or  Teneriffe  and  back,  18  or 
12  gs.,   or,    with   a   week's   board    in   one   of    the   islands,    20  or  14  gs. — 

2.  Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Co.,  fortnightly  from  Southampton  (for  Brazil) 
via  Vigo  and  Lisbon  to  Madeira  (fares  111.  10s.  or  HI.) ;  also  fortnightly 
from  London  round  voyage  to  Gibraltar,  Tangier,  Casablanca,  Mazagan, 
Saffi,  and  Mogador,  returning  via  Las  Palmas,  Teneriffe,  and  Madeira 
(fare  from   22  gs. ;   single  to  Madeira  or   Canary  Islands  from  15  gs.). — 

3.  Booth  Line  (for  Brazil),  thrice  monthly  from  Liverpool  to  Madeira; 
10Z.,  return  1%1.  10s.  —  4.  Yeoward  Bros.  Line,  weekly  from  Liverpool 
to  the  Canaries  calling  on  alternate  voyages  at  Madeira;  comp.  p.  28. — 
5.  Federal,  Hoidder,  &  Shire  Lines,  from  Liverpool  fortnightly,  for 
Australia  or  New  Zealand,  calling  at  Madeira,  Las  Palmas,  or  Teneriffe, 
10  gs.  —  6.  Em/preza  Nacional  de  Navegacao,  from  Lisbon  to  Madeira, 
1st  and  7th  of  each  month;  hi.  6s.  3d.  or  Si.  12s.  3d.,  return  Ql.  0s.  8d.  or 
61.  3s. — 7.  Emprcza  Insulana,  from  Lisbon  to  Madeira,  20th  of  each  month  ; 
41.  5s.  or  31.  3s.  9d.,  return  11.  13s.  or  51.  14s.  9d.  —  During  the  winter 
season  the  Mediterranean  steamers  of  the  White  Star  and  Cunard  Lines 
(p.  118)  call  once  monthly  at  Madeira,  and  the  Transports  Maritimes  (p.  120) 
occasionally  touch  at  Madeira. 

The  communication  between  Madeira  and  the  Canary  Islands  (R.  4)  is 
very  defective. 

The  Archipelago  da  Madeira,  or  Madeira  group  of  islands, 
consists  of  Madeira  itself,  the  largest  of  the  group,  37  by  14  M., 
Porto  Santo  (rising  1663  ft.  above  the  sea),  6^2  by  3  M.,  which 
lies  261/2  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Madeira,  and  the  three  uninhabited 
Desertas.  These  are  the  islets  of  Chdo  (341ft.),  12»/2  M.  to  the 
S.E.  of  Madeira,  Deserta  Grande  (1611  ft.),  and  Bugio  (1349  ft.). 
Madeira  lies  in  33°  N.  lat.,  between  the  Azores  and  the  Canary  Is- 
lands (R.  4),  620  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Lisbon,  370  M.  to  the  N.W.  of 
Cape  Juby  (p.  104),  and  275  M.  to  the  N.  of  Teneriffe  (p.  32).  The 
population  of  the  islands,  which  are  said  to  have  been  uninhabited 
when  discovered  by  the  Portuguese  in  1419,  is  now,  in  an  area  of 
314  sq.  M.,  about  150,000.  All  the  islands  are  of  volcanic  origin. 
In  Madeira,  above  the  prinireval  diabase  rock  (p.  29),  numerous 

Baedkkkk's  Mediterranean.  2 


18     Route  3.  MADEIRA. 

eruptions  since  the  miocene  epoch  have  formed  a  number  of  extinct 
craters  (lagoas),  and  as  in  the  Canaries  have  raised  the  soil  1150  ft. 
above  its  original  level.  The  main  ridge  of  the  island,  running  from 
W.  to  E.,  and  culminating  in  the  Pico  Ruivo  ('red  peak';  6060  ft.), 
frequently  rises  in  rocky  pinnacles.  In  examining  the  geological 
structure  of  the  island  one  is  struck  with  'the  constant  mingling  of 
solid  masses  of  basalt  and  lava  with  strata  of  loose  tufa  and  ashes, 
the  whole  being  interspersed  with  upright  dykes  of  lava'.  The 
only  tablelands  are  the  Paul  da  Serra,  on  the  W.,  and  the  smaller 
Santo  Antonio  da  Serra,  on  the  E.  On  the  S.  and  N.  slopes  of  the 
central  range  we  observe  a  series  of  very  curious  and  grand  basins 
(curraes,  sing,  curral),  which  are  enclosed  by  high  rocks,  and  are 
connected  with  the  sea  by  deep  ravines,  testifying  to  the  enormous 
erosion  caused  by  water  and  wind.  Narrow  strips  of  coast,  strewn 
with  rounded  fragments  of  basalt,  occur  only  at  the  mouths  of  the 
few  streams,  and  on  the  largest  of  these  lies  Funchal,  the  capital 
of  the  island,  on  its  S.W.  margin. 

The  mild  and  wonderfully  equable  climate  of  Madeira  which 
since  1850  has  attracted  numberless  invalids,  chiefly  English,  to 
its  shores,  is  due  partly  to  its  southern  position,  tempered  by  the 
surrounding  ocean,  but  mainly  to  the  influence  of  the  Gulf  Stream, 
which  sends  from  the  Azores  an  offshoot,  known  as  the  Canary 
branch,  towards  the  W.  African  coast.  On  the  sunny  S.  coast  in 
particular,  which  is  free  from  fog  and  is  sheltered  from  the  pre- 
vailing N.W.  wind  by  the  above-mentioned  main  ridge,  the  mean 
and  almost  unvarying  temperature  of  the  three  winter  months  (at 
Funchal  61°  Fahr. ;  minimum  50°)  is  considerably  higher  than  that 
of  the  favourite  Mediterranean  resorts  (Nice  48°  Fahr.,  Ajaccio  52°, 
Algiers  54i/20,  Malaga  55°),  while  the  summer  temperature  is 
lower  (at  Funchal  in  Aug.  i01l2°i  maximum  92°).  Dust  is  almost 
unknown.  The  rainfall  (at  Funchal  271/,  inches;  but  more  in  the 
mountains  and  on  the  N.  coast),  chiefly  in  sudden  and  heavy  showers, 
occurs  mostly  between  October  and  February  or  March.  The  lowest 
snow-line  is  1970  ft.  above  the  sea.  The  relative  moisture  of  the 
air  (67  per  cent)  at  Funchal  is  moderate,  notwithstanding  the 
proximity  of  the  sea.  As  in  the  Canaries,  the  mountains  are  gen- 
erally cloud-capped  about  midday,  except  during  the  prevalence 
of  the  Leste,  the  wind  blowing  from  the  African  desert  (p.  29), 
which  in  Madeira  is  not  specially  unpleasant. 

Thanks  to  the  genial  climate,  the  abundant  winter  rains,  and  the 
system  of  irrigation  by  means  of  open  channels  (levadas),  whereby 
water  is  brought  down,  partly  through  tunnels  (furos),  from  its 
mountain  sources,  the  fields  and  gardens  of  Madeira,  'Flor  do 
Oceano',  show  an  almost  tropical  luxuriance  of  vegetation.  Side  by 
side  with  pines,  junipers,  and  deciduous  European  trees,  such  as 
the  plane,  the  chestnut,  the  maple,  the  oak,  and  the  walnut,  of 


MADEIRA  3.  Route.     19 

which  there  are  many  splendid  specimens,  are  seen  countless  ever- 
green trees  and  shrubs  of  tropical  and  subtropical  origin.  Among 
these  are  palms,  araucarias,  hickory-trees,  cork-trees,  camphor- 
trees,  figs,  palm-lilies  (yuccas;  p.  233),  magnolias,  eucalypti,  bam- 
boos, papyrus-bushes,  tree-ferns,  and  aloes.  A  few  isolated  dragon- 
trees  (p.  30),  the  laurel  (vinhatico),  and  the  tilwood  tree  (Oreodaphne 
fcetens),  a  kind  of  bay-tree  scarcely  occurring  elsewhere,  are  survi- 
vals of  the  primaeval  forest  destroyed  by  the  Portuguese  discov- 
erers, and  now  lingering  only  in  the  remote  ravines  and  on  the 
slopes  of  the  N.  coast.  To  that  forest  the  island  owes  its  name 
(madeira,  'wood';  Isold  di  Legname  on  old  Italian  charts).  The 
hill-sides  are  now  largely  clothed  with  tree-like  erica  and  broom 
(Genista  madeirense,  G.  virgata,  furze,  etc.),  large  bilberry-bushes 
(Yaccinium  madeirense),  stemless  ferns,  and  box,  forming  a  kind  of 
evergreen  underwood.  In  the  gardens  of  Funchal,  enclosed  by  high 
walls,  the  traveller  feasts  his  eyes,  especially  in  May,  on  a  most 
exuberant  flora,  comprising  roses,  rhododendrons,  azaleas,  camel- 
lias, callas,  bignonias,  daturas,  fuchsias,  hydrangeas,  honeysuckle, 
and  a  superb  red  and  purple  bougainvillea.  The  garden-walls, 
field-roads,  and  hill-terraces  are  everywhere  overgrown  with  vines, 
but,  as  in  the  Canary  Islands,  the  wine-culture  has  suffered  since 
1852  from  the  grape-disease  (O'idium  Tuckeri)  and  from  the  com- 
petition of  port-wine  (p.  4).  Among  favourite  brands  are  Malvasia 
or  Malmsey,  a  sweet  dessert-wine,  Boal,  and  the  astringent  Ser- 
ried. Like  the  Vega  of  Malaga  (p.  89),  the  S.  coast  of  Madeira 
yields  the  sugar-cane,  which  forms  the  chief  crop  of  the  island, 
bananas,  sweet  potatoes  (p.  89;  Portug.  batata  doce),  cherimolias, 
cotfee-plants,  yams  (Dioscorea  batatas;  Portug.  inhame),  and  early 
vegetables,  which  last  are  exported  chiefly  to  England.  Pine-apples 
thrive  in  hot-houses  only.  The  natives  live  mostly  on  maize  and 
the  fruit  of  a  kind  of  cactus  (Opuntia  Tuna)  which  grows  abun- 
dantly on  all  the  rocks. 

Madeira  also  possesses  several  charming  home-industries,  pro- 
ducing embroidery,  lace,  silk  shawls,  basket-work,  inlaid  laurel- 
wood,  and  feather-flowers.  Funchal,  the  only  considerable  harbour 
in  the  island,  is  an  important  coaling  and  provisioning  station  for 
steamers  bound  for  S.  Africa  and  for  America.  The  heavy  customs- 
dues,  which  render  living  dear,  the  over-population  of  the  island, 
and  the  poverty  of  the  peasantry  cause  a  considerable  emigration, 
chiefly  to  S.  America. 

Season  and  Mode  of  Travel.  Madeira  is  au  admirable  health 
and  rest  resort  at  all  seasons ,  except  perhaps  for  sufferers  from  neu- 
rasthenia or  gastric  disorders;  but  in  summer  the  Monte  (p.  24)  and 
lia  are  preferable  to  the  lower  sites.  Tourists,  on  the  other  hand, 
will  find  July,  Aug.,  and  Sept.  the  best  months  for  their  purpose,  as  the 
hotels  are  cheaper  and  less  crowded,  the  days  are  long,  and  the  dry 
weather  favours  excursions  into  the  interior.  At  Funchal  English,  French, 
and  in   the   larger  hotels  German   are  much  spoken,    but  in  the  interior 

2* 


20     Route  s.  MADEIRA. 

Portuguese  only.  Those  unacquainted  with  the  language  of  the  natives 
are  then  dependent  on  the  help  of  their  horse-attendants  (arrieiros)  or 
guides  (guias  or  chapas),  many  of  whom  speak  a  little  English.  At  the 
principal  hotels  and  shops  English  money  is  readily  received,  but  small 
Portuguese  change  is  required  for  fees  and  other  minor  outlays.  Beggars 
abound,  but  their  importunities  should  invariably  be  disregarded  (comp. 
also  p.  xxv). 

The  streets  of  Funchal  and  the  hill-roads  are  paved  with  round  and 
slippery  cobbles  of  basalt,  against  which  india-rubber  heels  afford  pro- 
tection. The  most  popular  vehicles  are  the  bullock-cars  (carros  de  bois; 
seated  for  4  persons;  400-1000  rs.  per  hour).  For  steep  descents  the  carro 
do  monte  or  carrinho,  a  kind  of  running  sledge,  is  employed  (400-1200  rs. 
per  drive).  The  longer  excursions  on  the  extremely  hilly  routes  so  char- 
acteristic of  Madeira  are  best  taken  on  horseback.  The  horses  of  An- 
dalusian  race  are  wonderfully  wiry  and  sure-footed  (per  hour  500  rs. ; 
arrieiro ,  or  attendant,  800-1000  rs.  per  day).  Ladies  and  invalids  use 
the  hammock  or  litter  (rede),  a  costly  conveyance  (2-4  bearers,  at  500- 
600  rs.  each  per  hour).    Finger-posts  are  entirely  lacking. 

The  few  Vendas,  or  country-inns,  and  the  houses  of  the  mountain 
engineers  (to  which  travellers  are  admitted  by  leave  from  the  office  of 
the  Obras  Publicas  at  Funchal,  Rua  do  Conselheiro  Vieira  80)  afford  very 
primitive  quarters.  Travellers  should  therefore  be  provided  with  rugs, 
preserved  meats,  candles,  insect-powder,  and  good  drinking-water.  As  in 
the  Alps,  strong  boots  with  nails  and  a  hasta  or  bord&o,  a  long  stick 
with  an  iron  spike,  are  desirable  for  mountaineering, 

Among  Books  on  Madeira  may  be  mentioned  A.  Samler  Brown's 
Guide  to  Madeira,  the  Canary  Islands,  and  the  Azores  (10th  ed.,  London, 
1910;  2s.  6^.);  Leaves  from  a  Madeira  Garden,  by  Chas.  Thomas-Stanford 
(London,  1910;  5s.);  Yate  Johnson's  Handbook  of  Madeira  (London,  1885); 
Madeira,  by  Ellen  M.  Taylor  (2nd  ed.,  London,  1889);  Madeira  Islands,  by 
A.  J.  D.  Biddle  (2nd  ed.,  London,  1900;  2  vols.);  Madeira,  Old  and  New, 
by  W.  H.  Koebel  (London,  1909;  10s.  6d.);  The  Flowers  and  Gardens  of 
Madeira,  by  the  ikisses  Du  Cane  (London,  1909;  7s.  6d.). 


The  Steamers  arriving  from  the  N.  skirt  the  W.  coast  of  Porto 
Santo  (p.  17),  an  island  in  the  form  of  a  tableland,  surrounded 
by  five  reef-islets;  its  inhabitants  (about  2300)  live  mostly  in  the 
little  town  of  Villa  Baleira.  Beyond  Porto  Santo  we  obtain  a 
superb  view  of  the  abrupt  and  furrowed  N.  coast  of  Madeira, 
with  the  curiously  shaped  Penha  d'Aguia  (p.  27). 

Farther  on  appears  the  long  E.  promontory  of  Madeira,  a  rocky 
peninsula  worn  by  the  surf,  and  connected  with  the  islet  of  Ponta 
de  Sao  Lourengo  by  a  grand  rocky  gateway  called  the  Ponta  do 
Furado.  We  steer  round  the  Hheo  de  Fora,  an  outlying  islet  with 
a  lighthouse  {Farol;  348  ft.),  visible  from  a  distance  of  28  M., 
towards  which  the  steamers  from  Lisbon,  Gibraltar,  and  Morocco 
direct  their  course,  passing  to  the  S.  of  Porto  Santo. 

To  the  S.,  beyond  the  low  island  of  Chdo,  rise  the  Deserta 
Grande  and  Bugio,  the  largest  of  the  Desertas  (p.  17),  a  group 
of  islands  deserted  for  lack  of  water,  and  now  owned  by  Mr.  C.  J. 
Cossart,  of  Madeira.  British  sportsmen  desiring  to  shoot  wild  goats 
there  or  hunt  seals  (Monachus  albiventer)  in  the  ocean-caves  of  the 
Deserta  Grande  must  obtain  permission  from  the  owner. 


Geogr  Anst.vfWagner  &Debes ,  Leipzig 


Madeira.  FUNCHAL.  3.  Route.     21 

The  thinly  peopled  and  somewhat  bare  >S.E.  coast  of  Madeira, 
with  the  three  little  harbours  of  Canical,  Mackico,  and  Santa 
Cruz,  shows  clearly  the  geological  formation  of  the  island  (comp. 
pp.  17, 18).  Off  Porto  Novo,  in  particular,  we  are  struck  with  the 
rich  colouring  of  the  Pico  dos  Iroses,  where  the  sombre  basaltic 
and  lava  rock  contrasts  with  brick-red  strata  of  ashes  and  blood- 
red  masses  of  slag. 

Very  beautiful  is  the  approach  to  the  *Bay  of  Funchal,  which 
is  bounded  on  the  E.  by  the  bold  Cabo  do  Garajdo,  and  on  the 
W.  by  the  Ponta  da  Cruz,  a  spur  of  the  Pico  da  Ponta  da  Cruz 
(p.  25).  From  the  narrow  strip  of  coast  the  lanes  of  the  old  town 
mount  the  steep  hill-side  between  the  three  river-beds  (which  are 
generally  dry),  while  several  groups  of  houses  extend  up  to  the 
Pico  Fort  (p.  23)  and  the  Levada  dc  Santa  Luzia  (p.  24).  Farther 
up,  stretching  to  the  terrace  of  the  Monte  (p.  24),  are  gardens  and 
vineyards,  from  which  peep  many  white  quintas  or  country-houses. 
On  the  plateau  behind  Forte  Ilheo  (p.  24)  are  seen  the  charming 
gardens,  with  their  tall  araucarias,  belonging  to  the  "VV.  suburb  of 
Funchal,  the  finest  residential  quarter.  Of  the  barren  mountains 
in  the  background  the  highest  peak  visible  from  the  sea  is  the 
Pico  de  Santo  Antonio  (p.  25),  to  the  N.W.  of  the  town. 

Funchal.  —  Arrival.  The  steamers  cast  anchor  in  the  open 
roads,  which  are  much  exposed  to  the  surf  when  the  wind  is  from  the 
S.  or  S.W.  The  passenger's  luggage,  including  hand-bags  and  small 
packages,  is  conveyed  from  the  steamer,  in  charge  of  a  g/iarda  fiscal, 
direct  to  the  Alfandega,  or  custom-house  (PI.  1;  C,  D,  2).  Tobacco,  spirits, 
and  unused  articles  are  specially  dutiable.  The  charge  for  landing  is 
about  500  rs.  for  each  person,  but  should  be  ascertained  beforehand,  with 
the  aid  of  the  hotel-porter  if  necessary.  In  stormy  weather  passengers 
are  landed  at  the  Pontinha  (PI.  B,  3),  a  small  pier  beyond  the  Forte  Ilheo. 
At  the  custom-house  a  declaration  has  to  be  filled  up,  for  which  the  fee 
is  60 rs.;  the  luggage  is  then  usually  retained  till  midday,  and  when  it 
is  finally  cleared  the  passenger  gives  a  receipt  for  it  (250-300  rs.  more). 
For  the  transport  of  luggage  to  the  hotel  by  bullock-car  not  more  than 
1000  rs.  should  be  paid  (an  agreement  should  be  made  beforehand).  The 
Madeira  clock  is  59  min.  behind  Greenwich  time. 

Hotels  (mostly  in  the  English  style;  almost  all  with  beautiful 
gardens;  crowded  from  Dec.  to  April).  In  the  W.  suburb  *Reid's  Palace 
Hotel  (PI.  a;  A,  3),  situated  on  a  basalt  rock  and  commanding  fine 
views,  with  sea-baths,  etc.,  pens.  10-25s.  (or  in  the  dependance,  Villa 
Victoria,  8s.  6<2.-18s.);  Hot.  Bella  Vista  (PI.  b,  B  2;  Jones's),  above  the 
Itua  da  Imperatriz  Dona  Maria,  pens,  from  8s.;  Hot.  Royal  (PI.  c,  A3; 
Adams's),  Rua  da  Imperatriz  Dona  Amelia,  pens,  from  8s. ;  Pension  Qotsi- 
sana  (Reuter's),  Estrada  Monumental  (PI.  A,  3),  8-12s. ;  Pension  Almeida 
(PI.  f ;  A,  3),  by  the  Redondo.  —  In  the  old  town,  Reid's  Carmo  Hotel 
(PI.  d;  D,  1),  Rua  do  Carmo,  8s.  6cZ.-I8s. ;  Gr.-Hot.  Central  (Swiss  land- 
lady), near  the  pier  (Caes;  PI.  C,  2);  Hot.  Universal  (PI.  e;  C,  2),  Largo 
da  Be,  pens.  1200  rs.,  a  Portug.  house.  —  Ou  the  Monte  (p.  24;  comp. 
inset  plan),  with  splendid  views,  Monte  Palace  Hotel  (PI.  g) ;  Hot. 
Belmonte  (PI.  h);  Reiu's  Mount  Park  Hotel  (PI.  i),  pens.  7s.  6(Z.-10s. ; 
all  three  near  the  terminus.  Wine,  always  an  extra,  is  dear.  The  Agua 
Miuero-Xatmal  of  Porto  Santo  is  a  good  table-water  (GO  rs.  per  small  bottle). 

Apartments  for  the  winter  in  numerous  quintas  or  villas,  furnished, 
but  without  bed  or  table  linen;  from  Oct.  to  June  40J.  and  upwards. 


22     Route  3.  FUNCHAL.  Madeira. 

Restaurants.  Phenix,  Pra§a  da  Rainha  (PI.  C,  2);  Golden  Gate, 
Entrada  da  Cidade  7  (PI.  C,  2;  with  American  bar).  —  English  Tea  Rooms, 
Cafe  Monaco.  —  Wine.    Vaccaria  do  Souza,  Rua  de  Joao  Tavira. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (Estagao  Telegrapho-Postal;  PI.  5,  C2), 
Entrada  da  Cidade. 

Theatre.  Theatro  de  Dona  Maria  Pia  (PI.  16;  C,  2),  opposite  the 
Jardim  Municipal.  —  Evening  Concerts  twice  a  week  in  the  Jardim  Munici- 
pal, etc. 

Shops  in  the  Praca  da  Constituiijao,  Rua  do  Aljube,  Rua  do  Consel- 
heiro  Vieira,  etc.;  bargaining  necessary;  the  prices  are  higher  when  the 
purchaser  is  attended  by  a  guide.  Pedlars  often  charge  more  than  the 
shopjs.  —  Embroidery,  etc.,  at  Ad.  v.  Breymann's.  Rua  do  Conselheiro 
Vieira  77. —  Wines,  etc.,  sold  at,  Breymann's;  also  by  Blahdy  Bros.  &  Co. 
(see  below);  Cossart,  Gordon,  &  Co.,  Rua  do  Principe  78;  Krohn  Bros. 
&  Co.  (see  below).  —  Photographic  Materials,  Bazar  do  Povo,  Largo 
de  Sao  Sebastiao. 

Banks.  Blandy  Bros.  &  Co.,  Rua  da  Alf  andega  26 ;  Reid,  Castro,  &  Co., 
Largo  de  Sao  Sebastiao  5;  Banco  de  Portugal,  Largo  daSii;  Krohn  Bros. 
&  Co.,  Rua  do  Carmo  2;  L.  da  Rocha  Machado,  Rua  da  Alf  andega  27. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Grabham,  Valle  Formoso;  Dr.  Scott,  Quinta  Peres- 
trello;  Dr.  Machado,  Rua  das  Merces  1  (PI.  C,  1);  Dr.  Stevens,  Villa 
Ramose.  —  Chemists.  Pharmacia  Central,  Rua  Bettencourt  2;  Botica  dos 
Dois  Amigos,  Largo  do  Collegio. 

Carriages  and  Horses  (p.  20)  at  De  Soaza's,  Rua  do  Bispo.  Bullock- 
cars  (p.  20)  in  the  Entrada  da  Cidade;  saddle-horses  (poor)  in  the  Largo 
de  Sao  Pedro  and  the  Rua  de  Joao  Tavira. — Litters  (p.  20)  in  the  Largo 
de  Sao  Sebastiao. 

Motor  Cabs  in  the  Entrada  da  Cidade  (tariff  by  zones;  per  drive 
90-500  rs. ;  to  Camara  de  Lobos  and  back  800  rs.). 

Horse  Tramway  (electric  line  projected)  from  the  Praija  da  Con- 
stituic.ao  to  the  railway-station  of  Pombal  (starting  V4  nr-  before  each 
train;  50  rs.).  —  Rack  &  Pinion  Railway  (Caniinho  de  Ferro  do  Monte) 
from  the  Estacao  do  Pombal  (PI.  C,  1)  via  Levada,  Livramento,  Sant'  Anna, 
and  Flameugo,  to  the  Monte  (p.  24);  7  trains  daily  in  20  min. ;  fare  300, 
return  400  rs. 

British  Consul,  Cajrt.  J.  Boyle,  Reid's  Palace  Hotel  (p.  21) ;  vice- 
consul,  E.  Sarsfleld.  —  Lloyd's  Agents,  Blandy  Bros.  &  Co.  (see  above). 

Steamboat  Agents.  Blandy  Bros.  &  Co.  (see  above)  for  the  Union 
Castle,  Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Co.,  Booth,  Hamburg- American,  and 
Woermann  Lines,  the  Empreza  Nacional  de  Navegacjio  and  the  Empreza 
Insulana  de  Navegagao;  Leca,  Gomes,  &  Co.  for  Yeowards  Bros.  Line; 
Goncalves  &  Co.,  Rua  do  Conselheiro  Silvestre  Ribeira  2,  for  the  Hamburg 
&  South  American  Line;  J.  de  Freitas  Martins,  Rua  da  Alf  andega  52, 
for  the  North  German  Lloyd.  —  For  the  coasting  service  (Servico  costeiro) 
and  pleasure-trips  (Viagens  de  Recreio),  see  newspapers. 

Churches.  English  (PI.  4;  B,  1),  Rua  da  Bella  Vista  (Rev.  C.  Jones 
Bateman,  M.  A.),  services  on  Sun.  at  8  and  11  a.m.,  and  5.30  p.m.;  Pres- 
byterian (PL  15;  C,  2),  Rua  do  Conselheiro;  American  (PI.  8;  C,  2),  same 
street,  lower  down. 

Club.  English  Rooms,  in  the  Rua  da  Praia,  overlooking  the  sea, 
with  library  and  billiard-rooms.     Adni.  on  introduction. 

One  Day.  Visit  to  the  Monte  (p.  24)  in  the  forenoon;  drive  to  Camara 
de  Lobos  (p.  25)  in  the  afternoon. 

Funchal  ('place  of  fennel';  pop.  25,800),  situated  in  32°  38'  N. 
lat.  and  16°  55'  W.  long.,  the  capital  of  Madeira  and  the  seat  of  the 
Portuguese  governor  and  a  bishop,  is  remarkable  for  the  luxuriant 
subtropical  verdure  of  its  public  grounds  and  private  gardens. 


Madeira.  FUNCHAL.  3.  Route.      23 

On  the  Praqa  da  Ral\ha  (PI.  C,  2),  the  sea-promenade,  where 
we  have  a  view  of  the  Desertas  (p.  20),  rise  the  Palacio  de  Sao 
Lourengo  (PI.  10;  the  governor's  residence),  several  Club  Houses, 
and  a  signalling  tower  called  the  Pilar  de  Benger  (PI.  11 ;  \Benger's 
Folly').  The  Varadoures  Gate  (PI.  12;  D,  2),  to  the  E.  of  the 
custom-house,  is  the  sole  survival  of  a  town-wall  built  by  the 
Spaniards  early  in  the  17th  cent.;  adjacent  is  the  Fruit  and  Fish 
Market  (Mercado;  PI.  D,  2). 

Opposite  the  pier  (Caes;  PI.  C,  2)  the  Entrada  da  Cidade,  an 
avenue  of  planes,  leads  to  thePRACA  da  Constituicao  (PI.  13 ;  C,  2), 
adorned  with  pleasure-grounds,  in  the  centre  of  the  town. 

Adjacent  on  the  W.  is  the  *Jardirn  Municipal  (public  park; 
PI.  C,  2;  evening  concerts  twice  weekly,  otherwise  closed  in  the 
evening),  with  its  exuberant  wealth  of  vegetation  and  flowers.  On 
the  S.  side  is  the  Theatre  (p.  22).  —  To  the  E.,  in  the  Largo  da 
Se,  rises  the  insignificant  Cathedral  (Se;  PI.  C,  2),  with  a  fine 
ceiling  of  Spanish  juniper  (Portuguese  cedro). 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  park  runs  the  Eua  de  Sao  Francisco, 
leading  to  the  long  Rua  do  Coxselheiro  Vieira  (PI.  B,  C,  1,  2),  or 
Rua  da  Carreira  the  busiest  street,  at  the  N.W.  end  of  which  (on 
the  left)  is  the  entrance  to  the  Protestant  Cemetery  (Cemiterio 
Britanico;  PI.  3,  B  2). 

From  the  N.  side  of  the  Rua  do  Conselheiro  Vieira  we  ascend 
past  the  church  of  Sao  Pedro  (PI.  C,  1)  and  through  the  steep 
Canada  de  Santa  Clara  to  the  convent -church  of  Santa  Clara 
(PI.  B,  C,  1),  where  Zarco,  the  discoverer  of  Madeira,  is  buried. — 
Farther  to  the  N.  is  the  Canada  do  Pico,  whence  the  Rua  do  Castello 
to  the  left  leads  to  the  old  Spanish  Pico  Fort  (Forte  de  Sao  Joao 
do  Pico;  PI.  B,  1),  dating  from  1632,  famed  for  its  *View. 

From  the  E.  end  of  the  Rua  do  Conselheiro  Vieira  we  may  now 
cross  the  Largo  do  Collegio,  with  the  Jesuit  Church  of  that  name 
(PI.  C,  1),  to  the  Camara  Municipal,  or  town-hall  (PI.  2;  C,  1),  in 
the  Rua  dos  Ferreiros.  At  the  lower  end  of  the  same  street,  not  far 
from  the  Cathedral,  is  the  Largo  de  Sao  Sebastiao  (PL  7 ;  C,  2), 
where  the  Saturday  market  is  held. 

Crossing  the  neighbouring  Ribeira  de  Santa  Luzia  we  soon 
reach  the  Carmo  Church  (PI.  6;  D,  1).  —  Along  the  Ribeira  de 
Santa  Luzia  ascends  the  horse-tramway  (p.  22)  to  the  station  of 
the  Monte  railway,  near  which,  to  the  E.  (reached  by  the  Rua  do 
Pombal,  PI.  C  1),  is  the  Museum,  containing  valuable  natural 
history  collections  and  a  large  relief-map  of  the  island.  (Adm. 
on  application;  donation  to  poor-box.) 

In  the  E.  suburb  of  Santa  Maria  Maior,  beyond  the  Ribeira 
de  Santa  Luzia  and  the  Ribeira  de  Joao  Gomes,  is  the  Campo  de 
Dom  Carlos  Primeiro  (PI.  D,  E,  2 ;  drilling-ground),  skirting  the  sea, 
and  partly  planted  with  trees.    The  Spanish  Forte  de  Sdo  Thiayo 


24     Route  3.  MONTE. 

(PI.  E,  2 ;  now  barracks),  built  in  1614,  was  dedicated  to  St.  James 
the  Less  (Sao  Thiago  Menor),  the  patron  saint  of  Funchal.  Near  it 
is  the  church  of  Nossa  Senhora  do  Soccorro  (PI.  E,  2),  the  scene 
of  a  great  procession  on  1st  May. 

The  chief  streets  of  the  W.  Suburb,  beyond  the  Ribeira  de 
Sao  Jodo,  flanked  with  pretty  villas,  are  the  Rua  da  Imperatriz 
Dona  Maria  (PI.  B,  2)  and  the  Rua  da  Imperatriz  Dona  Amelia 
(PI.  A,  B,  3),  which  last  ends  at  the  Redondo  ('round  space')  near 
the  Ribeiro  Secco.  On  the  S.  side  of  the  road  are  the  Cemetery 
(Cemiterio  das  Angustias ;  PI.  B,  2)  and  the  Casino  Pavao  (PI.  B,  3), 
with  a  beautiful  garden  extending  to  the  abrupt  coast,  frequented 
by  English  and  American  visitors.  By  the  sea  runs  the  Caminho  da 
Pontinha,  leading  to  the  Pontinha  (p.  21)  and  the  harbour-battery 
of  Forte  Ilheo  (PI.  B,  3 ;  'island  fort',  Engl.  Loo  Rock). 


Excursions.  The  Rack  &  Pinion  Railway  (p.  22),  which  atLe- 
vada  station  crosses  the  Levada  de  Santa  Luzia  and  the  beautiful 
hill-promenade  of  that  name,  connects  Eunchal  with  the  *Monte 
(hotels,  see  p.  21),  a  village  on  the  hill  at  the  back  of  the  town, 
with  numerous  villas  nestling  amidst  beautiful  groves  of  planes 
and  oaks.  On  a  spur  of  the  hill,  close  to  the  terminus  of  the  rail- 
way (extension  projected),  rises  the  pilgrimage-church  of  Nossa 
Senhora  do  Monte,  known  by  English  visitors  as  the  'Mount  Church' 
(1962  ft.).  It  is  the  scene  of  the  Novena,  a  great  nine-days'  church- 
festival  held  in  summer.  The  terrace  of  the  church  (68  steps) 
commands  a  glorious  *View  of  Funchal,  the  coast  as  far  as  the 
Cabo  Girao  (p.  25),  and  the  blue  ocean  enlivened  by  its  passing 
ships.    A  little  below  the  church  is  a  sacred  well. 

A  little  to  the  E.  of  the  Monte  is  the  C'urralinho  ('little  curral'),  or 
Curral  dos  Romeiros  ('pilgrims'  ravine'),  overgrown  with  erica  and  vac- 
cinium  (p.  19).  This  miniature  curral,  a  gorge  of  the  Ribeira  de  Joao 
Gomes  (p.  23),  gives  a  very  imperfect  idea  of  the  grandeur  of  the  rocky 
ravines  (p.  18)  of  Madeira. 

Those  who  are  pressed  for  time  may  descend  to  the  town  in  10- 
12  min.  in  a  running  sledge  (p.  20),  by  the  Caminho  do  Monte;  but 
it  is  preferable  to  walk  back  (in  V/2  hr.)  by  the  level  *Caminho  das 
Tilias  which  we  reach  by  turning  to  the  left  above  the  church.  After 
about  1/4M.,  at  the  beautiful  Quinta  Machado  (with  a  view-tower), 
we  descend  to  the  left  by  the  steep  Caminho  dos  Saltos  (if  desired, 
by  running  sledge  ordered  beforehand;  600  rs.).  The  route  leads 
to  the  S.W.,  past  the  Quinta  Olavo,  the  Levada  de  Santa  Luzia 
(see  above),  and  the  Quinta  do  Dedo,  and  then  descends  to  the  S.E. 
through  the  plane-avenue  on  the  Ribeira  de  Santa  Luzia  (p.  23). 

A  *Side-path  leads,  above  the  Quinta  Olavo,  to  the  right,  across  the 
river-bed,  to  the  church  of  Sao  Roque  (1139  ft.;  view;  bullock-car  from 
Funchal  800  rs.),  whence  we  may  descend  by  the  steep  Caminho  de  Sao 
Roque  to  the  Pico  Fort  and  the  Clara  Nunnery  (p.  23). 


Madeira.  GRAN  CURRAL.  3.  Route.     25 

The  Rua  da  Imperatriz  Dona  Amelia  (p.  24)  is  continued  by 
the  *Estrada  Monumental,  a  road  which  affords  delightful  views. 
It  leads  from  the  Ponte  Monumental  (PI.  A,  3),  a  bridge  across 
the  Ribeiro  Secco,  past  a  number  of  sugar-cane  plantations  and 
vineyards,  and,  leaving  the  shore,  proceeds  to  the  S.W.  above  the 
ocean-cave  of  Forja  and  the  rocky  islets  of  Forja  and  Gorgolho. 
It  then  crosses  the  S.  slope  of  the  Pico  da  Ponta  da  Cruz  (863  ft. ; 
*Vkw),  an  old  crater,  near  the  promontory  of  that  name  (p.  21), 
and  skirts  the  beautiful,  but  not  very  safe  bathing-beach  of  Praia 
Formosa.  Farther  to  the  W.,  in  full  view  of  the  bold  central  range 
backing  the  Gran  Curral  (see  below),  we  cross  the  lower  bridge  of 
the  Ribeira  dos  Soccorridos  and  an  old  lava-stream  to  (5^2  H.) 
Camara  de  Lobos  (which  may  be  reached  by  motor-cab,  p.  22), 
a  strikingly  picturesque  fishing-village  (pop.  6200)  at  the  E.  base 
of  the  almost  perpendicular  *C'abo  Girdo,  with  a  small  natural  har- 
bour (Bahia).  The  best  wine  in  the  island  is  yielded  by  the  slopes 
in  the  vicinity.  Route  to  the  Gran  Curral  by  Jardim  da  Serra, 
see  p.  26. 

The  Excursion  to  the  Gran  Curral,  on  horseback  or  by  litter 
(p.  20),  takes  nearly  a  whole  day.  "We  start  early  and  take  pro- 
visions with  us.  From  the  W.  suburb  (p.  24)  we  follow  the  Rua 
das  Maravilhas  and  the  Caminho  de  Santo  Antonio  (PI.  A,  1,  2), 
between  garden-walls  and  vineyards,  to  the  N.W.  to  the  finely  situ- 
ated village  of  (2  M.)  Santo  Antonio  (985  ft.;  bullock-car  from 
Funchal  800  rs.).  We  descend  thence  to  the  N.W.  into  the  side- 
valley  of  the  Ribeira  do  Vasco  Gil,  with  its  pine-woods  and  rich 
pastures,  and  soon  obtain  a  view  towards  the  W.,  extending  to  the 
Cabo  Girao  (see  above)  and  the  Pico  da  Cruz  (p.  26).  "We  next  ascend 
the  steep  side-  valley  of  the  Ribeira  da  Lapa  to  the  (11  M.)  Ser- 
rado Saddle  (Eira  do  Serrado;  about  2900  ft.),  on  the  N.E.  margin 
of  the  Pico  Serrado  (see  below).  From  the  top  of  the  pass  we 
have  a  grand  view  into  the  great  and  well-watered  basin  of  the 
*Gran  Curral,  or  Curral  das  Freiras  ('nuns'  valley';  once  a 
pasture  belonging  to  the  convent  of  Santa  Clara),  enclosed  by  the 
lofty  rocks  of  the  central  mountains.  Far  below  us,  above  the  rock- 
strewn  bed  of  the  Ribeira  dos  Soccorridos,  we  descry  the  village 
of  Livramento  (2018  ft.),  with  its  little  church  and  cypress-shaded 
churchyard. 

Those  who  do  not  care  to  face  the  rugged  descent  to  Livramento, 
and  the  steep  clamber  thence  to  the  Bocca  dos  Namorados  (p.  26), 
should  now  ascend  the  *Pico  Serrado  (3347  ft.;  'sawn-off  peak'), 
whence  we  survey  the  mountain-range  from  the  Pico  de  Santo 
Antonio  (5725  ft.)  and  Pico  Cidrdo  (5551  ft.)  to  the  Pico  Ruivo 
(p.  27),  the  Pico  Canario  (5500  ft.),  and  the  Pico  Grande  (p.  26). 

Longer,  but  still  grander,  is  the  excursion  to  the  "W.  margin  of 
the  Gran  Curral.  From  the  Estrada  Monumental  (see  above)  we  turn 


26     Route  3.  RABACAL.  Madeira. 

to  the  N.W.  past  the  Quinta  Nazareh,  nestling  amidst  araucarias, 
to  the  (2  M.)  village  of  Sao  Martinho  (765  ft.;  bullock-car  from 
Funchal  800  rs.),  situated  among  several  old  craters;  we  then  cross, 
to  the  W.,  the  ravine  of  the  Ribeira  dos  Soccorridos  by  the  upper 
bridge  and  mount  in  zigzags  to  the  (7  M.)  village  of  Estreito 
(1510  ft.).  Our  route  now  ascends  to  the  N.  to  the  (872  M.)  *Bocca 
dos  Namorados  (3445  ft.),  with  its  beautiful  chestnut-wood,  where 
we  enjoy  a  superb  view  of  the  Gran  Curral,  and  skirts  the  W.  margin 
of  the  Pico  dos  Bodes  (3718  ft.)  to  the  (10  M.)  Cova  da  Cevada, 
a  basin  affording  a  similar  view.  We  next  follow  the  top  of  the 
hill  to  the  N.W.,  between  the  Gran  Curral  and  the  E.  side-valleys 
of  the  Ribeira  Brava  (see  below),  to  (13  M.)  the  *Bocca  dos 
Corregos  (4466  ft.),  a  narrow  ridge  at  the  foot  of  the  perpendicular 
rocks  of  the  Pico  Grande  or  Rocha  Alta  (5420  ft.).  An  interest- 
ing return-route  is  afforded  by  descending  from  the  Cova  da  Cevada 
across  Jardim  da  Serra  (2523  ft.)  and  past  the  Pico  da  Cruz 
(3288  ft.)  to  Camara  de  Lobos  (p.  25). 

The  Excursion  to  Babacal  can,  if  time  presses,  be  accomplished 
in  one  day.  It  is  best  to  go  by  steamboat  to  Calheta  (3  times  weekly, 
in  IV2-2  hrs. ;  or  a  small  private  steamer  may  be  hired  of  Messrs.  Blandy 
Bros.,  p.  22).  The  steamer  calls  first  at  Camara  de  Lobos  (p.  25),  then 
skirts  the  sombre  rocky  slopes  of  C'abo  Girao  and  steers  past  Fajaa  dos 
Padres,  a  village  famed  for  its  wine,  to  the  village  of  Ribeira  Brava  (inn), 
where  we  obtain,  through  the  curral  of  that  name,  a  very  striking  glimpse 
of  the  Serra  d'Agua  (4610  ft.)  and  the  Pico  Grande  (see  above).  We  next 
pass  the  beach  of  Lugar  de  Baixo,  formed  by  a  landslip  in  1803,  the 
beautiful  cape,  Ponta  do  Sol,  and  the  village  of  Maqdalena,  peeping  out 
of  vines  and  bananas  amidst  the  grandest  scenery  of  the  S.  coast. 

At  the  village  of  Calheta  (bad  landing-place;  no  inn)  we  may  find 
litters  if  desired  (each  man  800-1000  rs.  per  day),  and  we  obtain  provisions 
and  torches  (fachos,  at  50  rs.).  We  now  walk  chiefly  through  pine-wood 
via.  Salao  to  the  (l'/a  hr.)  narrow  and  wet  tunnel  (about  650  yds.  in  length) 
of  the  lower  Levada  Nova  do  Rabacal.  At  the  N.  end  of  it  we  obtain 
a  very  striking  view  of  the  highest  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Ribeira  da 
Janella,  richly  wooded  with  evergreen  oaks  and  laurels.  A  path  over  the 
rocks  (which  needs  a  steady  head)  connects  this  levada  (or  conduit)  with 
the  upper  Levada  Velha,  constructed  in  1836-60,  and  with  (9'/2  M.)  the 
engineers'  houses  of  Rabacal  (3750  ft.;  adm.,  see  p.  20;  fee).  A  little 
to  the  N.E.,  on  the  so-called  Balcao,  we  enjoy  an  excellent  survey  of 
the  *  Waterfall  of  the  Risco,  which  plunges  from  a  rock,  330  ft.  high,  into 
a  ravine  overgrown  with  climbing  plants  and  ferns,  and  a  little  lower 
down  provides  the  water  for  the  old  conduit.  Crossing  the  viaduct  of 
the  latter,  we  skirt  the  new  conduit,  and  in  a  few  minutes  reach  another 
luxuriantly  overgrown  ravine,  that  of  the  *  Vinte  e  Cinco  Fontes,  where 
no  fewer  than  twenty-five  waterfalls  issue  from  a  narrow  basin. 

From  Babaeal  we  may  ascend  towards  the  E.  (with  a  guide)  to  the 
(2  hrs.)  plateau  of  Paid  da  Serra  (4656  ft. ;  'mountain  swamp'),  where 
fogs  often  prevail,  and  the  two  Tanquinhos  Houses  (about  4900  ft. ;  used 
by  the  engineers;  poor  quarters).  Near  them  rise  the  Pico  dos  Tanquinhos 
(5260  ft.)  and  the  *Pico  Ruivo  do  Paul  (5388  ft.),  both  of  which  afford 
grand  views  of  the  mountains. 

Scarcely  less  repaying  is  the  two  days'  Excursion  to  Santa  Anna 
on  the  N.  coast,  to  which  a  third  day  may  be  added  for  the  ascent  of  the 
Pico  Ruivo  or  the  Pico  Areeiro.  We  start  from  the  Canipo  da  Barca  at 
Funchal  (PI.  D,  1)   and  follow  the  Estrada  do  Conde  Carvalhal  (PI.  E,  1), 


Madeira.  SANTA  ANNA.  3.  Route.     27 

which  ascends  to  the  N.E.  in  windings  to  (33/4  M.)  Palhciro  do  Ferreiro 
(1857  ft.;  bullock -car  from  Funchal  1200  rs.).  the  finest  quinta  in  the 
island,  the  property  of  Mr.  John  Blandy  of  Funchal  (adm.  on  appli- 
cation). Farther  on  we  follow  the  road,  uphill  and  downhill,  to  (6  M.) 
Camacha  (2369 ft. ;  no  inn;  bullock-car  2500  rs.),  a  well-to-do  village  of 
basket-makers  in  a  charming  wooded  region,  with  many  villas  owned  by 
English  residents  in  Funchal.  Beyond  the  Pico  dos  Iroses  (p.  21)  the 
road,  now  less  attractive,  crosses  the  gorges  of  the  Ribeira  de  Porto 
Novo  and  Ribeira  de  Santa  Cruz,  and  then,  turning  to  the  N.,  reaches 
(13  M  )  Santo  Antonio  da  Serra  (2320  ft.),  a  poor  village  on  a  grassy- 
tableland.  We  descend  thence  to  the  N.W.  into  a  sequestered  valley 
carpeted  with  flowers  (Amaryllis  Belladonna,  etc.),  where  a  rough  path 
leads  to  the  (15'/2  M.)  Portella  Pass  (2021  ft.),  which  commands  a  superb 
*View  of  the  mountains  at  the  head  of  the  Metade  Valley  (see  below), 
of  the  N.E.  coast  from  the  Penha  d'Aguia  (see  below)  to  the  Ponta  de 
Sao  Lourengo  (p.  20),  and  of  the  island  of  Porto  Santo  (p.  20).  We  now 
descend,  at  first  by  a  zigzag  path,  through  vineyards  and  sugar-cane  plant- 
ations, to  (18  M.)  Porto  da  Cruz  (no  inn),  a  picturesque  little  seaport 
at  the  S.E.  base  of  the  abrupt  *Penha  d'Aguia  (1949  ft. ;  'eagle-rock'), 
the  most  curiously  shaped  hill  in  the  island.  We  next  ascend  the  saddle 
to  the  S.  of  the  Penha  d'Aguia,  noteworthy  for  its  marvellously  rich  veg- 
etation, and  descend  the  ravine  of  the  Ribeiro  Frio  (see  below)  to  Fayal, 
a  village  not  far  from  the  charming  Pescaria,  a  little  bay  to  the  N.W. 
of  the  Penha  d'Aguia.  The  church-terrace  here  affords  a  grand  survey  of 
the  valleys  of  the  Ribeiro  Frio,  the  Ribeiro  da  Metade,  and  the  Ribeiro 
Secco  (all  mentioned  below).  From  Fayal  we  then  cross  the  Cortadas  Pass, 
or  Bocca  do  Cortado  (1985  ft.),  to  (24  M.)  Santa  Anna  (1408  ft. ;  Hot.  Fi- 
gueira,  very  fair;  pop.  3200),  a  village  well  adapted  for  some  stay,  the 
capital  of  the  Comarca  de  Santa  Anna,  the  most  fertile  region  in  the  island 
(sugar-cane,  sweet  potatoes,  yams,  etc.).  From  Santa  Anna  a  rough  mule- 
track,  very  indistinct  at  places,  ascends  past  the  curious  basaltic  Homem 
em  P6  ('man  on  foot'),  and  lastly  over  the  saddle  by  the  Encumeada  Alta 
(5948  ft.),  to  the  top  of  the  Pico  Ruivo  (6060  ft. ;  p.  18),  which  commands 
a  most  imposing,  but  seldom  very  clear  panorama  of  the  central  chain, 
part  of  the  Gran  Corral  (p.  25),  and  the  E.  half  of  the  island. 

Turning  back  from  Santa  Anna,  we  first  wend  our  way  towards  the 
S.  to  the  Cora  da  Roda,  where  we  again  overlook  the  N.E.  coast  as  far 
as  the  Portella  Pass  and  the  Porto  da  Cruz;  we  then  cross  the  Ribeiro 
Secco  and  the  (29'/o  M.)  Cruzinhas  Ridge,  and  descend  into  the  valley  of 
the  "'Ribeiro  da  Metade,  a  gorge  vying  in  grandeur  with  the  Gran  Corral. 
A  zigzag  path  ('Quatorze  Voltas')  ascends  thence  to  the  little  venda  (inn) 
of  Cedro  Gordo,  and  then  crosses  the  Serra  de  Caramvja  into  the  (33  M.) 
valley  of  the  Ribeiro  Frio,  with  its  splendid  groves  of  tilwood  trees  (see 
p.  19),  laurel,  and  erica.  Above  the  village  of  that  name  rises  the  Balcao, 
a  rock  of  basalt  (near  the  not  easily  accessible  Levada  do  Furado), 
where  we  have  a  grand  *View  of  the  Metade  Valley  with  mountain- 
background.  Our  route  winds  up  the  rocks  of  the  Feiteiras  ('ferns')  and  the 
Pouso  Saddle,  with  its  fine  views,  to  the  (34^2  M.)  Pouso  or  Po'izo  Refuge 
(4603  ft.),  situated  on  a  dreary  plateau.  From  the  Pouso  Refuge  we  may 
without  difficulty  climb  the  Pico  Areeiro  (5893  ft. ;  l'/rl'/s  hr.),  a  famous 
point  of  view,  but  almost  always  capped  with  clouds.  The  bridle-path 
ascends  past  the  Observatorio ;  we  may  then  descend  direct  to  the  Vista 
dos  Navios. 

The  next  part  of  our  route,  from  the  Pouso  Refuge  to  the  Monte 
(p.  24),  is  uninteresting.  From  the  Vista  dos  Navios  ('view  of  ships'), 
whence  the  bay  of  Funchal  is  visible,  the  track  descends  to  the  head  of 
the  valley  of  the  Ribeira  de  Jodo  Gomes  (p.  23),  rounds  the  E.  slope 
of  the  Pico  do  Arrebentao  (3842  ft.),  to  which  point  a  running  sledge 
(p.  20)  may  be  ordered  from  Funchal,  and  then  descends  rapidly,  partly 
in  windings,  to  the  (39  M.)  Monte.   Thence  to  (41>/2  M.)  Funchal,  see  p.  24. 


28 


4.  The  Canary  Islands. 

Steamboat  Lines.  1.  Union  Castle  IAne,  fortnightly  from  Loudon 
and  Southampton,  touching  alternately  at  Las  Palnias  and  Teneriffe;  fares 
to  either,  1st  el.  14-16,  2nd  9-11  gs.  (return  about  2/3  more).  For  summer 
tours,  comp.  p.  17.  —  2.  Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Co.,  see  p.  17. — 
3.  Peninsular  &  Oriental  Branch  Service,  from  London  monthly  for 
Australia,  calling  at  Las  Palmas ;  12L,  return  (tickets  interchangeable  with 
No.  5  from  Teneriffe)  20l.  —  4.  Bucknall  Line,  monthly  from  London  to 
Teneriffe;  10Z.,  return  18i.  —  5.  Aberdeen  (Thompson's)  IAne,  from  Lon- 
don and  Plymouth  monthly  for  Australia,  calling  at  Teneriffe;  13?.,  re- 
turn (also  valid  for  No.  3)  221.  —  6.  Aberdeen  (Rennie's)  Line,  from  Lon- 
don, about  once  every  10  days,  for  S.  and  E.  Africa,  calling  alternately 
at  Las  Palmas  and  Teneriffe;  10  or  81.,  return  18  or  14  I. — 7.  German 
East  African  Line,  once  every  3  weeks  from  Southampton  for  S.  Africa, 
calling  at  Las  Palmas  and  Teneriffe,  122.  10s.  or  11.  10s. ;  no  return-fares, 
hut  an  abatement  of  20  per  cent  is  allowed  on  the  fare  back  to  South- 
ampton, either  by  this  line,  by  the  Woermann,  or  by  the  Hamburg-Ameri- 
can Line.  —  8.  Woermann  Line,  monthly  from  Dover  to  Las  Palmas,  and 
monthly  to  Teneriffe;  fares  and  abatement  for  return,  same  as  No.  7. — 
9,  10.  New  Zealand  Line  and  Shaw,  Savill,  &  Albion,  each  monthly  from 
London  and  Plymouth  for  Teneriffe,  141.  or  111.  10s. ;  interchangeable  re- 
turn-ticket 22  or  17?. — 11.  Yeoivard  Bros.  Line,  from  Liverpool,  weekly 
pleasure  cruises  to  Teneriffe,  Grand  Canary,  and  back  (10-12  gs.),  also  single 
tickets  (6-8  gs.).  — 12.  Natal  Line,  from  London  fortnightly  for  S.  Africa 
calling  at  Las  Palmas,  fare  8  gs.,  return  15?.  2s.  6d. — 13.  Federal,  Houl- 
der,  &  Shire  Lines,  see  p.  17.  —  There  are  also  steamers  to  the  Canary 
Islands  from  Cadiz  (see  p.  58),  Genoa  (see  p.  114),  Naples,  and  Trieste 
(see  p.  425).  —  It  should  he  noted  that  almost  all  the  British  lines  have 
recently  raised  their  fares  by  ten  per  cent  in  consequence,  it  is  said,  of  a 
rise  in  the  price  of  coal.  Inquiry  as  to  this  'surtax'  should  therefore  be 
made  in  every  case. — The  direct  steamers  perform  the  voyage  (1707  M. 
from  Southampton  to  Teneriffe)  in  5-6  days;  the  coasting  steamers  (via, 
Oporto,  Lisbon,  etc. ;  about  2250  M.)  take  much  longer. 

In  addition  to  the  above-mentioned  steamers  communication  among 
the  islands  themselves  is  effected  by  the  small  cargo -boats  of  the  Com- 
paflia  de  Vapores  Correos  Interinsulares  Canarios  which  ply  9  times 
monthly  between  Teneriffe  and  Las  Palmas  in  6  hrs.  (fare  20  or  15  pesetas); 
and  by  those  of  the  Servicio  de  Pailebotes  which  ply  weekly  from  Tener- 
iffe to  Las  Palmas,  and  weekly  to  Santa  Cruz  de  la  Palma.  Inquiry  as 
to  the  sailings ,  which  often  vary,  should  be  made  on  the  spot.  The 
Spanish  cuisine  on  board  these  local  boats  is  not  very  inviting 

The  Canary  Islands  (Islas  Canarias  or  Afortunadas,  i.e. 
'fortunate  islands') ,  the  Makdron  Nesoi  or  Insulae  Fortunatae 
of  antiquity,  in  27°  30'  to  29°  26'  N.  lat.,  and  13°  15'  to  18°  2'  W. 
long.,  lie  off  the  coast  of  Mauretania,  the  nearest  point  being  Cape 
Juby  (p.  104).  There  are  in  all  thirteen  islands,  forming  a  Spanish 
province  of  a  total  area  of  3305  sq.  M.,with  a  population  of  364,000. 
They  consist  of  two  groups.  The  E.  group  is  composed  of  Lanzarote 
(rising  to  2231  ft.  above  the  sea),  Fuerteventura  (2789  ft.),  and 
five  smaller  islands  (Alegranza,  Graciosa,  etc.);  to  the  W.  group 
belong  Gran  Canaria  (6400  ft.),  Teneriffe  (12,175  ft.;  once  the 
meridian  used  by  the  Spaniards  and  the  Dutch),  Gomera  (4366  ft.), 
Palma  (7737  ft.),  and  Hierro  or  Ferro  (4643  ft.),  the  meridian 
used  by  France  since  the  time  of  Louis  XIII.  (1634).    Teneriffe, 


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CANARY  ISLANDS.  <•  Route.     29 

Gran  Canada,  and  sometimes  Palma  are  the  islands  usually  visited 
by  tourists;  the  others  chiefly  attract  botanists  and  geologists. 

The  Canaries,  supposed  by  some  geographers  to  form  part  of 
the  submerged  continent  of  Atlantis,  and  by  others  to  have  been 
outlying  spurs  of  the  Atlas  of  Morocco  (p.  93),  have  the  same  geolo- 
gical formation  as  Madeira  (see  pp.  17,  18,  19).  'In  Euerteventura 
especially  there  occur  masses  of  slag  and  lava,  thrown  up  by  count- 
less eruptions,  superimposed  on  the  diabase  formation,  which  is 
still  visible  in  many  places ;  and  in  Teneriffe  we  find  phonolithic 
and  trachytic  rocks  as  well  as  the  basaltic.  Grand  old  craters  (cal- 
deras)  exist  in  Ferro,  Gran  Canaria,  and  most  of  all  in  Palma  and 
Teneriffe.  The  enormous  basin  of  the  Cahadas  in  Teneriffe  has 
been  almost  entirely  filled  up  with  later  streams  of  lava  and  scoriae, 
which  have  formed  a  distinct  volcanic  cone,  the  great  Pico  de 
Teide,  12,175  ft.  in  height.'  The  last  considerable  eruptions  were 
those  of  1677  in  Palma,  of  1730-36  and  1824  in  Lanzarote,  and 
of  1705,  1706,  1796,  and  1798  on  the  N.W.  coast  of  Teneriffe,  all. 
of  which  caused  great  havoc.  On  the  occasion  of  the  eruption  of 
1909  in  Teneriffe  a  large  lava-stream,  accompanied  by  the  emission 
of  vapour  and  stones  from  the  central  crater  (see  p.  41),  burst 
forth  near  the  foot  of  the  Chahorra  (p.  42)  and  advanced  in  a  N.W. 
direction  towards  Santiago  and  El  Tanque  but  came  to  rest  before 
reaching  these  villages.  There  was  little  damage  and  no  loss  of 
human  life.  In  the  W.  islands,  which  like  Madeira  rise  very  abruptly 
from  the  sea,  the  effects  of  erosion  in  the  broad  valleys,  with  their 
rich  soil,  as  well  as  in  the  deep  ravines  (barrancos)  of  more  recent 
origin,  are  specially  noticeable. 

The  climate  of  the  Canaries  is  remarkable  for  the  striking 
contrasts  prevailing  between  the  E.  and  the  W.  groups  on  the  one 
hand,  and  between  the  lower  and  the  higher  levels  on  the  other. 
In  the  almost  treeless  islands  of  Lanzarote  and  Fuerteventura 
(62  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Cape  Juby)  years  sometimes  elapse  without 
rainfall,  while  the  dreaded  tiempo  del  sur,  the  hot  and  extremely 
dry  wind  from  the  Sahara,  covers  them  with  dust  and  sand  and 
often  brings  swarms  of  locusts.  Even  more  disastrous  for  agricul- 
ture are  the  sandy  dunes  or  coast-hills,  thrown  up  by  the  currents 
off  the  African  shores,  the  sand  of  which  is  driven  inland  by  vi- 
olent N.  winds.  The  Gran  Canaria,  on  the  other  hand,  though  by 
no  means  free  from  the  locust  pest,  holds  an  intermediate  position 
in  point  of  climate  and  scenery  between  the  more  continental  E. 
group  of  islands  and  the  almost  wholly  oceanic  W.  group.  Owing 
to  the  influence  of  the  gulf-stream  (p.  18)  and  the  zone  of  high  air- 
pressure  prevalent  in  the  W.  Canaries  in  winter,  the  N.  coast  of 
Teneriffe  and  the  islands  of  Gomera  and  Palma  enjoy  a  remark- 
ably mild  and  equable  winter  climate  (the  mean  temperature  of 
vinter  at  Puerto  Orotava  being  60°  Fahr  and  the  minimum  51°). 


30    Route  4.  CANARY  ISLANDS. 

In  the  region  tempered  by  the  trade-wind  clouds,  which  gather  at 
a  height  varying  from  2300  to  5000  ft.  above  the  sea,  even  the 
summer  temperature  is  quite  bearable;  but  on  the  high  mountains, 
above  the  cloud-zone,  the  air  is  extremely  dry,  and  the  burning 
heat  of  the  day  is  suddenly  followed,  as  in  the  tropics,  by  a  severe 
chill.  The  rainfall  at  Santa  Cruz  de  Tenerife  averages  12  inches, 
at  Santa  Cruz  de  la  Palma  14  in.,  at  Puerto  Orotava  17  in.,  at 
Laguna  22  inches.    The  lowest  snow-line  is  about  3300  ft. 

The  vegetation  of  the  W.  islands,  the  Eldorado  of  botanists, 
surpasses  that  of  Madeira  in  variety,  though  not  in  luxuriance; 
but  it  is  confined  to  the  forest-zone  in  the  region  of  the  trade-wind 
clouds,  and  to  the  low  ground  irrigated  with  the  aid  of  these  clouds, 
where  the  soil  consists  of  disintegrated  diabase,  tufa,  and  lava.  On 
the  other  hand  large  tracts  of  land,  especially  in  the  Gran  Canaria 
and  on  the  S.  and  E.  coasts  of  Teneriffe,  are  entirely  destitute  of 
vegetation,  even  in  winter,  while  in  summer  the  verdure  of  the 
.cultivated  land  is  often  covered  with  a  mantle  of  grey  dust. 

The  Canary  Islands,  together  with  Madeira  and  the  Azores,  have 
been  described  as  a  region  'where  the  tertiary  flora,  destroyed  in 
Europe  during  the  glacier  epoch,  has  survived  and  developed,  at 
least  since  the  pliocene  age,  in  insular  solitude'.  To  the  primaeval 
African  flora,  the  same  as  that  of  the  original  'diabasic  Canaries', 
belong  in  particular  the  stately  Canary  pine  (Pinus  canadensis), 
several  species  of  laurel,  such  as  the  Laurus  canadensis,  the  viiiatigo 
(Persea  indica),  the  aloe,  the  oleander-leaved  Kleinia  neriifolia,  the 
cactus-like  euphorbias,  the  balo  (Plocama  pendula),  and  the  famous 
dragon-tree  (Dracaena  Draco).  Besides  the  endemic  trees  and  plants 
are  others  of  very  early  origin,  the  seeds  of  which  were  originally 
brought  over  from  India  or  America  by  the  gulf-stream.  During 
the  Spanish  period  countless  other  plants,  now  cosmopolitan,  were 
imported  from  America,  fruit-trees  from  Europe,  and  shrubs  from 
the  Mediterranean,  which  last,  favoured  by  the  climate,  develop 
into  bushy  trees.  In  the  gardens,  which  are  mostly  enclosed  by  high 
walls,  we  are  struck  with  the  gorgeous  wealth  of  bougainvilleas, 
gloxinias,  poinsettias,  bignonias,  daturas,  walbergias,  passifloras, 
and  many  other  flowers.  In  the  lower  and  more  tropical  districts 
grow,  side  by  side,  bananas  (pldtanos),  tomatoes,  sugar-cane  (cana 
de  azucar), yams  (Span. name),  tobacco,  oranges  and  lemons, prickly- 
pear  (Opuntia  Tuna),  coffee-plants,  Peruvian  pepper-trees  (pirnen- 
teros),  E.  Indian  bread-fruit,  mango  and  camphor  trees,  eucalypti, 
cork-trees,  tamarisks  (tarajales),  araucarias,  magnolias,  fig-trees, 
Japanese  medlars,  palms  (about  25  varieties),  notably  the  superb 
Canary  palm  (Phoenix  canadensis  or  Jubss  Webb),  the  date-palm 
(p.  171),  the  royal  palm  (Oreodoxa  regia),  and,  fn  Palma,  the 
cocoa-nut  palm.  The  vineyards,  yielding  the  famous  Malmsey 
(p.  19)  and  Vidueno  wines,  rise  on  the  S.  side  of  Teneriffe  from 


CANARY  ISLANDS.  *•  Route.     31 

the  lower  land  to  a  height  of  4070  ft.  above  the  sea-level.  In  the 
upper  cultivated  regions  the  chief  crops  and  fruits  are  wheat, 
potatoes,  lupins,  maize,  chestnuts,  walnuts,  and,  among  other 
European  fruits,  peaches.  On  the  rocky  sides  of  the  barrancos 
occur  everywhere  the  aloe,  the  cactus-like  Euphorbia  canariensis 
(Span,  carddri),  the  tabayba  (Euphorbia  Regis  Jubae),  the  orchilla 
lichen  (Roccella  tinctoria;  woad),  and  Sempervivum  (house-leek; 
some  CO  varieties).  At  the  bottom  of  the  barrancos  and  in  the 
cloud-region  we  encounter  beautiful  underwood,  composed  of 
evergreen  myrtles  and  laurels,  the  strawberry-tree  (Arbutus  cana- 
riensis), ericas,  stemless  ferns,  and  a  few  climbing  plants.  Above 
the  level  of  the  trade-wind  clouds  we  may  still  meet  with  the  cistus, 
the  Canary  pine  (up  to  7050  ft.  above  the  sea),  the  white  Cytisus 
proliferus  (Span,  escobon),  and  the  Adenocarpus  frankenoides  (Span. 
codeso),  a  kind  of  gorse.  The  Alpine  retama  (Spartocytisus  supra- 
nubius;  Span,  retama  bla?ica),  a  kind  of  broom,  the  commonest 
plant  in  the  Canadas,  grows  on  the  Peak  up  to  a  height  of  10,300  ft. ; 
but  a  few  mosses  and  lichens  alone  reach  the  summit. 

The  fauna  of  the  Canaries  is  remarkably  poor.  The  characteristic 
bird  is  the  canary  (Serinus  canariensis),  which,  as  in  Madeira,  is 
of  a  greenish-grey  colour,  while  the  yellow  canaries  are  imported. 
Mosquitoes,  especially  on  the  E.  and  S.  coasts  of  the  islands, 
fleas,  and  flies,  including  some  whose  bite  is  very  unpleasant, 
abound  in  summer.  The  more  important  fish  are  cod,  tunny,  and 
sardines.  Chief  among  domestic  animals  is  the  goat.  Camels  were 
introduced  from  the  continent  in  1405. 

The  islands,  which  were  probably  known  to  the  Carthaginians 
and  Ureeks,  were  for  a  time  occupied  by  king  Juba  II.  (p.  244) 
with  a  view  to  the  manufacture  of  purple  dye  from  the  juice  of  the 
Orchilla  (see  above).  At  that  period  the  population  consisted  chiefly 
of  the  so-called  Guanches  (from  guan,  son,  and  Chenerfe,  Tene- 
riffe),  whose  culture  down  to  the  middle  ages  was  still  that  of  the 
flint  age,  while  their  inscriptions  are  Libyan  in  character.  In 
1402-96  the  islands  were  conquered,  first  by  the  Normans,  under 
Jean  de  Betancourt,  at  the  instance  of  the  kings  of  Castile,  and 
later  by  the  Spaniards,  with  the  result  that  the  Guanches,  in  spite 
of  their  heroic  resistance,  were  largely  exterminated  or  sold  into 
slavery.  A  few  survivors  still  lingered  in  their  cave-dwellings,  as 
at  Atalaya  (p.  46)  and  Artenara  (p.  46),  but  others  intermarried 
with  Moorish  immigrants  (1405),  and,  in  the  Spanish  period,  with 
Norman,  S.  Spanish,  and  Irish  settlers.  Their  language  has  been 
extinct  since  the  17th  century.  A  few  peculiarities  of  the  present 
population,  which  somewhat  resembles  that  of  S.  Spain  and  of  the 
W.  Indies,  survive  in  the  costume  of  the  peasants,  consisting  of  a 
white  blanket  (matta)  wrapped  round  the  body  like  a  shepherd's 
cloak,  in  their  quaint  old  pottery,  in  the  whistling  language  of 


32     Route  4.  CANARY  ISLANDS. 

Gomera,  and  in  the  national  gofio,  a  kind  of  porridge  of  maize  and 
wheat.  The  Grand  Canary  contains  also  several  villages  of  negroes, 
descendants  of  the  slaves  on  the  sugar-plantations.  Among  the 
foreigners  there  are  2100  English,  600  French,  and  600  Germans. 

Santa  Cruz  de  Tenerife  and  Puerto  de  la  Luz  near  Las  Palmas, 
the  chief  ports  of  the  Canaries,  as  also  Puerto  Orotava  (p.  39),  Santa 
Cruz  de  la  Palma,  and  others,  all  declared  free  harbours  in  1852,  are 
rising  places  and  compete  with  Madeira  in  provisioning  the  ocean 
steamers.  The  trade  is  in  British,  Spanish,  and  German  hands. 
The  chief  exports  are  bananas,  tomatoes,  early  potatoes  and  other 
vegetables,  and  wine.  The  only  industry  of  any  importance  is  the 
embroidery  and  lace-making  of  Teneriffe  ('calado'  embroidery  after 
Mexican  patterns,  rosette-work  introduced  from  Paraguay,  the  rich 
Vilaflor  lace,  and  embroidery  in  relief  from  Venetian  and  Irish 
models).  The  cochineal  insect  (living  on  the  prickly-pear  plant) 
was  introduced  from  Honduras  in  1826,  and  for  many  years  its 
culture  yielded  large  profits  to  the  islanders,  but  the  discovery  of 
aniline  dyes  has  well-nigh  ruined  this  industry. 

The  best  Season  for  a  tour  in  the  Canaries  is  from  the  beginning 
of  March  to  the  end  of  May.  The  best  winter-quarters  for  invalids  are 
to  he  found  at  Puerto  Orotava  or  the  more  remote  Gttimar  in  Teneriffe, 
and  at  the  Monte  in  the  Grand  Canary.  Good  quarters  are  obtainable  also 
at  Santa  Cruz  and  Laguna  in  Teneriffe,  and  at  Las  Palmas  in  the  Grand 
Canary,  where  most  of  the  best  hotels  are  in  the  English  style,  and 
English  money  circulates  freely.  The  Spanish  'fondas',  where  the  national 
currency  is  in  vogue,  fall  short  of  modern  requirements,  while  the  country 
inns  are  mostly  wretched  taverns. 

The  chief  public  conveyances  in  the  islands  are,  in  Teneriffe,  the 
electric  tramway  from  Santa  Cruz  to  Tacoronte,  and  in  the  Grand  Canary 
the  harbour  tramway  at  Las  Palmas;  the  only  others  are  the  dirty  and 
often  crowded  coches  publicos,  the  very  expensive  four-seated  vehicles, 
and  the  tartanas  or  gigs.  For  mountain  excursions  horses  or  mules  are 
used,  the  arriero  or  attendant  serving  as  a  guide. 

Among  numerous  Books  on  the  Canary  Islands  are  Samler  Brown's 
guide  (see  p.  20);  Whitford's  The  Canary  Islands  as  a  Winter  Resort 
(London,  1890;  7s.  6d.);  Ward's  Vale  of  Orotava  (London,  1903);  C.  Piazzi 
Smyth's  Teneriffe,  an  Astronomer's  Experiment  (London,  1858) ;  and  Olivia 
Stone's  Tenerife  and  its  Six  Satellites  (London,  1889). 


Teneriffe,  Span.  Tenerife,  the  largest  and  most  populous  of 
the  islands,  51^2  M.  long,  31  M.  in  breadth,  and  781  sq.  M.  in 
area,  contains  about  140,000  inhab.,  mostly  living  on  the  N.  coast. 
The  island  is  composed  of  three  mountain-ranges,  chiefly  of  erup- 
tive rock  of  a  basaltic  character,  which  have  been  welded  together, 
probably  since  the  miocene  period,  by  great  phonolithic  and 
trachytic  eruptions.  These  are  the  Anaga  Mts.  on  the  N.E.,  the 
Teno  Mts.  on  the  N.W.,  and  the  Adeje  Mts.  in  the  Bandas  del  Sui 
Beyond  the  lofty  plain  of  Laguna  the  Anaga  range  is  prolonged  to 
the  Llano  de  la  Maja  by  the  massive  Cumbre.  In  the  centre  of 
the  island,  from  the  enormous  crater-ring  of  Las  Cafiadas,  and  high 


Teneriffe. 


SANTA  CRUZ. 


4.  Route.      33 


above  the  trade-wind  clouds,  towers  the  mighty  Peak  of  Teneriffe, 
or  Pico  de  Teide  (12,175  ft.),  visible  for  100  M.  around. 

Approaching  the  island  from  the  N.,  we  first  sight  the  sombre 
and  wildly  fissured  Anaga  Mts.  (3406  ft.).  We  steer  past  the  light- 
house (Faro;  811  ft.)  a  little  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Punta  del  Drago, 
whose  light  is  visible  for  40  M.,  theu  skirt  the  rocky  E.  coast,  with 
the  Punta  de  Anaga  and  Punta  Antequera,  and  at  length  cast 
anchor  in  the  open  roads  of  the  bay  of  Santa  Cruz. 

Santa  Cruz  de  Tenerife.  —  Arrival.  Passengers  are  con- 
veyed in  steam-launches  (faluas)  or  in  rowing-boats  to  the  pier  (Muelle; 
PL  C,  2;  landing  or  embarkation  1  peseta,  each  trunk  75  c).  The  hotels, 
which  send  their  porters  on  board,  charge  3-5  shillings  for  the  landing 
and  conveyance  to  the  hotel  of  each  passenger  and  his  luggage. 


"V^---    _ -,_  r"  --    yr  .-J  ->   -       -  Lapitania  General.       A2 

i^Sg'P^^SS^  SB        m         *' !crrTOS.  vT&epraJQS  C  2 

.  B  C 


Wagner  Jk.  I)ebes,Lerpzifl 

Hotels  (often  crowded  in  Feb.,  March,  and  April;  mostly  closed  in 
summer).  *Grand-Hot.  Quisisaha  (PI.  a;  A,  1),  on  the  hill-side  (about 
330  ft.)  to  the  N.W.  of  the  town,  1  M.  from  the  pier,  with  fine  views, 
R.  from  3s.,  P>.  2,  dej.  3,  D.  5,  pens.  12>/o-15s.  (but  more  in  Feb.  and 
March);  *Pino  de  Oro  (PI.  b;  B,  1),  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  s/4  M.  from 
the  pier,  also  finely  situated,  with  a  beautiful  old  park,  pens.  8-12*.; 
Hot.  Battknberg  (PI.  c;  A,  2),  in  the  Paseo  de  Ronda,  below  Quisisana. 
pens,  from  9g.  —  Camacho's  English  Hotel  (PI.  d;  B,  2),  Calle  San  Fran- 
cisco 11,  pens.  9-128.;  Hot.  Orotava  (dependance  of  the  'Humboldt  Kur- 


34     Route  4  SANTA  CRUZ.  Teneriffe. 

haus'  at  Puerto  Orotava,  p.  39),  Plaza  de  la  Coustituci6n,  R.  3-6,  B.  1, 
dt'j.  3,  D.  4V2,  pens.  8-12V2S. ;  Alexandra  (PI.  e,  B2;  Olsen's),  Calle  de 
Alfonso  Treceno,  pens,  from  7>/»S-,  commended;  Victoria  (PI.  f,  B  2; 
Holiustrbm's),  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion,  pens.  6-8s. ;  the  last  four  rather 
plain ;  wine  is  always  an  extra.     Table-water,  Agua  Firgas. 

Cafes.  Cuatro  Naciones,  Europa,  and  Beige,  all  in  the  Plaza  de  la 
Constituci6n. 

Theatre.  Teatro  Isabel  Segunda  (PI.  B,  3),  adjoining  the  market.— 
Bull  Ring  (Plaza  de  Toros;  PI.  A,  2),  in  the  Paseo  de.Ronda;  'corridas' 
mostly  in  May.  —  Music  in  the  Plaza  de  la  Constituci6n  (PI.  B,  C,  3)  and 
the  Plaza  del  Principe  Alfonso  (PI.  B,  2)  alternately,  thrice  weekly,  8.30 
to  10.30  p.m. 

Shops.  Teneriffe  Handiwork  (p.  32):  Bazar  Nivaria,  Calle  San 
Francisco  11;  Bazar  Taoro,  corner  of  Calle  San  Francisco  and  Calle  San 
Jose.  Indian  dealers  otter  defective  goods  (bargaining  necessary).  —  Book- 
seller: Binitez,  Calle  San  Francisco  6. — Tinned  Foods :  Qtiintero  &  Co., 
Calle  San  Francisco  2.  —  Photographic  Materials:  Lohr,  Calle  San  Fran 
cisco  34;  Espinosa,  Plaza  de  la  Constituci6n. 

Bankers.  Hamilton  &  Co.,  Calle  de  la  Marina  15;  Miller,  Wolf  son,  & 
Co.,  same  street,  No.  1;  Aiders,  same  street,  No.  31;  Dehesa,  Calle  de 
Alfonso  Treceno  64. 

Steamboat  Agents.  Hamilton  &  Co.  (see  above),  for  the  Peninsular 
&  Oriental  Co.,  Union  Castle,  Aberdeen  (Rennie's),  Aberdeen  (Thompson's), 
Shaw,  Savill,  &  Albion,  New  Zealand,  Hamburg-American,  White  Star,  and 
other  lines;  Teneriffe  Coaling  Co.,  for  the  Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Co.; 
Ahlers  (see  above),  for  the  Hamburg  &  South  American,  German  East 
African,  and  Woermann  lines;  Elder,  Dempster,  £  Co.,  Calle  de  Alfonso 
Treceno  84,  for  the  Beige  Maritime  du  Congo,  the  Italian  'La  Veloce', 
the  Societe  de  Transports  Maritimes,  and  the  Vapores  Correos  Inter- 
insulares  Canarios;  Viuda  4,  Hijos  de  Jttan  de  la  Roche,  Calle  de  Alfonso 
Treceno  35,  for  the  Compaiiia  Trasatlantica;  Miller,  Wolf  son,  &  Co.  (see 
above),  for  the  Servicio  de  Pailebotes. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (Correos  y  Telegrafos;  PI.  3,  C2),  Marina. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Otto,  Santa  Rita,  and  others.  —  Chemist.  SerrOf 
Calle  de  Alfonso  Treceno  7. — Baths  (baiios),  Plaza  de  la  Constituci6n. — 
Sea  Baths  (poor)  at  the  pier;  better  at  the  Club  Tinerfeiio. 

Cabs  ('coches  de  punta';  stands  in  the  Plaza  de  la  Constituci6n  ami 
the  Plaza  San  Francisco):  drive  in  the  town,  each  pers.  50  c.  (at  niglit 
one-half  more);  per  hour  1-2  pers.  2  pesetas,  each  addit.  pers.  50c;  to 
San  Andres  10  p.,  to  Tegueste  or  Tacoronte  20,  to  Giiimar  30,  to  Puerto 
Orotava  35,  to  Icod  de  los  Vinos  60  p.  (but  bargain  advisable). 

Electric  Tramway  from  the  Alameda  de  la  Marina  (PI.  C,  2)  through 
the  Calle  de  Alfonso  Treceno,  via,  Cuesta  and  Laguna  (1  hr. ;  fare  1  p.  30  c. ; 
change  carriages),  to  Tacoronte  (l3/4  hr. ;  fare  2  p.  60  c).  Cars  for  Laguna 
hourly  from  7  a.m.  to  8  p.m.;  to  Tacoronte  every  two  hours  till  5  p.m. 
The  cars  starting  at  7  and  3,  in  connection  with  the  diligence  mentioned 
at  p.  37,  are  usually  crowded;  motor-omnibus  from  Tacoronte  to  Puerto 
Orotava,  see  p.  37. 

Consuls.  British,  J.  E.  Crocker;  vice-consul,  R.  C.  Griffiths. — United 
States,  S.  Berliner. 

English  Church  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town;  service  in  winter. 

English  Club  (also  for  temporary  members),  adjoining  the  Gover- 
nor's Palace  (p.  35). 

Santa  Cruz  de  Tenerife,  a  fortified  seaport  with  30,300  inhab., 
and  the  capital  of  the  island  since  1821  when  it  superseded 
Laguna,  lies  picturesquely  in  28°  28'  N.  lat.  and  16°  15'  W.  long., 
on  a  bay  3  M.  broad  between  the  Valle  del  Bufadero  (p.  36)  and 


TenerifTc.  SANTA  CRUZ.  *•  Route.     35 

the  Barranco  de  Santos,  below  the  spurs  of  the  Anaga  Mts.  and 
the  plateau  of  Laguna.  Its  beautiful  patios,  or  courtyards,  recall 
those  of  Seville  aud  the  flat  roofs  with  their  miradores,  or  belve- 
deres, are  reminiscent  of  Cadiz.  The  harbour  is  entered  by  3500- 
4000  vessels  per  annum.  At  Regla,  to  the  S.  of  the  town,  is  a 
wireless  telegraph  station. 

The  town  was  heroically  defended  in  1797  against  the  British  fleet 
under  Nelson,  who  lost  his  arm  here  and  had  to  retire  after  heavy  loss- 
Near  the  old  Citadel  (now  Cuartel  Almeida;  PI.  C,  1)  stands  the  saluting, 
battery.  The  old  Castillo  de  San  Cristdbal  (PI.  C,  2,  3)  now  contains 
puhlic  offices. 

From  the  Alameda  de  la  Marina  (PL  C,  2),  near  the  landing- 
place,  we  soon  reach  the  Plaza  de  la  Constituci6n  (PI.  B,  C,  3) 
to  the  S.W.,  with  the  Governor's  Palace  (Gobierno  Civil;  PI.  5, 
B  2;  fine  patio),  the  club-houses,  and  the  cafds  (p.  34).  On  the 
side  next  the  sea  rises  the  Triunfo  de  la  Candelaria,  a  column 
in  honour  of  the  Virgin,  the  tutelary  saint  of  the  Canaries  (p.  36), 
erected  by  the  Spaniards  as  a  memorial  of  their  victories,  with  four 
Guauche  kings  as  worshippers. 

From  the  S.  side  of  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  the  Calle  de 
la  Cruz  Verde  leads  to  the  Iglesia  de  la  Coxcepci6n  (PI.  B,  3), 
the  principal  church  in  the  town,  consisting  of  a  nave  with  double 
aisles,  and  situated  close  to  the  Barranco  de  Santos.  It  was  founded 
early  in  the  16th  cent.,  but  was  rebuilt  after  a  fire  in  1652.  The 
tower,  181  ft.  high,  affords  an  extensive  panorama. 

Interior.  The  central  chapel  of  the  aisle  on  the  left  contains  two 
Hags  captured  from  Nelson's  fleet  (see  above),  of  which  the  town  is  very 

Eroud.  Here  too,  by  the  high-altar,  is  a  stone  cross  originally  erected  outside 
y  Al.  Fernandez  de  Lugo  (p.  37)  in  1494  as  a  memorial  of  his  victories. 
The  pulpit,  in  Italian  marble,  is  by  Matias  Rodriguez  (18th  cent.).  The 
burial  chapel  of  the  artist  (entered  to  the  right  of  the  high-altar)  contains 
several  pretty,  but  unfinished  carvings  in  juniper-wood. 

Near  this  is  the  Mercado  (PI.  B,3),  a  covered  market  for  fruit 
and  other  commodities  (worth  visiting  in  the  early  morning). 

From  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  the  Calle 
San  Francisco  leads,  a  few  yards  farther  on,  to  the  church  of  San 
Francisco  (PI.  6;B,2),  built  in  1680.  The  tower,  inlaid  with 
azulejos,  or  ornamental  tiles,  dates  from  1777. 

The  old  Franciscan  monastery  contains  at  present  the  Museum 
with  fine  art  and  anthropological  collections  (new  building  being 
erected  near  the  Ayuntamiento,  PI.  1,  B  2).  Beyond  it  lies  the  Plaza 
del  Principe  Alfonso  (PI.  B,  2). 

The  long  Calle  de  Alfonso  Treceno  (PI.  B,  A,  2),  or  Calle  de 
Castillo,  the  main  street,  connects  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  with 
the  pretty  Plaza  de  Weyler  (PI.  A,  2).  The  Paseo  de  los  Caches  and 
the  Paseo  de  Honda  (PI.  A,  B,  2, 1),  a  charming  promenade  bordered 
with  pepper-trees,  oleanders,  and  geraniums,  lead  thence  to  the  N. 
through  the  villa  quarter  (Barrio  de  Ensanche). 

Baedeker's  Mediterranean.  3 


36     Route  4.  GOlMAR.  Teneriffe. 

Excursions  on  thk  E.  Coast  (cabs,  see  p.  34).  From  the  Paseo  de 
Ronda  we  may  go  past  the  Pino  de  Oro  Hotel  (p.  33),  or  by  the  Hotel 
Quisisana,  to  the  Conduit  (llevada),  skirt  this  and  the  right  bank  of  the 
Barranco  de  Almeida,  and  thus  reach  the  (1  hr.)  tunnels,  or  we  may 
continue  our  walk  to  the  (3  hrs.)  Aguere  Springs.  —  Starting  from  the 
harbour  the  fine  coast-road  leads  to  the  N.E.  to  the  mouth  of  the  Voile 
del  Bufadero,  which  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  Anaga  Mts.  and  is  defended 
by  a  fort;  from  here  we  may  go  on,  crossing  some  barrancos  and  skirting 
the  rocks,  to  the  dirty  fishing-village  of  (5  M.)  San  Andre's  (poor  inn).  Thence 
to  the  Cruz  de  Taganana,  see  p.  37.  —  Drive  from  Cuesta  (see  below)  by 
the  Carretera  del  Sur,  a  road  shaded  by  tamarisks,  to  the  S.W.,  along  the 
slope  of  the  bare  sunburnt  Cumbre  (p.  33),  up  and  down  hill,  through  many 
barrancos,  via  (8  M.)  San  Isidro  to  (IOV2  M.)  the  so-called  Halfway  House 
(tavern;  good  wine);  then  through  the  deep  Barranco  Hondo,  below  the 
village  of  that  name  (1310  ft.),  mostly  through  pine-woods  (pinal).  To 
our  right,  on  the  hill,  lies  the  village  of  Igueste;  to  our  left,  on  the 
Ladera  de  Candelaria,  is  the  village  of  Candelaria,  with  the  famous 
pilgrimage-church  of  the  Virgen  de  la  Candelaria.  Lastly  we  cross  a 
lava-stream  from  the  Garganta  de  Giiimar  (p.  40)  to  (20  M.)  Guimar 
(975  ft.;  Hot.  El  Buen  Retiro,  with  a  fine  garden,  pens.  8-10s.,  English, 
good;  Pens.  Sunnyside,  pens.  7s.),  a  village  of  2000  inhab.  in  a  sunny 
and  sheltered  site,  in  the  Valle  de  Guimar.  This  fertile  valley,  33/4  M. 
in  breadth,  bounded  on  the  S.  by  the  Ladera  de  Guimar,  and  on  the  W. 
by  the  ash-cone  of  the  Arafo  and  the  Monte  de  Izafla  (7380  ft.),  yields 
sugar-cane,  oranges,  and  bananas.  Luxuriant  vegetation,  including  gigantic 
arbutus-trees,  is  seen  also  in  the  Barranco  del  Rio,  to  the  W.,  above 
the  village.  From  the  S.  end  of  the  village  we  may  reach  (ca.  l'/a  br.) 
two  cave-dwellings  of  Guanches  (p.  31),  now  empty,  in  the  upland  valley 
of  the  Barranco  de  Badajoz.  Route  over  the  Pedro  Gil  Pass  to  Orotava, 
see  p.  40;  ascent  of  the  Peak  of  Teneriffe,  see  p.  41. 

The  Excursion  to  the  Orotava  Valley,  the  most  charming 
spot  in  the  island,  takes  1-1 1/2  days.  We  go  by  tramway  (p.  34)  to 
Tacoronte  and  drive  thence  to  Puerto  Orotava  (see  p.  37). 

The  shadeless  and  generally  very  dusty  Carretera  del  Norte,  the 
continuation  of  the  Calle  de  Alfonso  Treceno  (p.  35)  and  Rambla 
de  Pulido,  crosses  the  Barranco  de  Santos  and  ascends  the  N.W. 
slope  of  the  Plateau  of  Laguna  in  windings  affording  several 
fine  views.  The  country  is  parched  and  scorched  in  spite  of  the 
numerous  reservoirs  (estanques),  but  corn-fields,  tamarisks,  fruit- 
trees,  and  relics  of  prickly-pear  plantations  are  occasionally  seen. 

3  M.  Cuesta  (962  ft.;  inn).  The  road  to  Guimar  (see  above) 
diverges  here.  Farther  on,  as  we  approach  the  cooler  and  better 
watered  table-land,  the  vegetation  becomes  richer. 

6*/4  M.  Laguna.  —  Hotel.  Hot.  Aguere  &  Continental,  Carrera  57, 
pens.  10-12s.,  good. 

Laguna  or  La  Laguna  (1740  ft.) ,  once  the  capital  of  the 
Canaries  (see  p.  34),  now  a  quiet  little  country-town  (pop.  4900),  is 
a  favourite  summer  residence  of  the  wealthier  families  of  Santa 
Cruz.  The  old-fashioned  houses,  as  at  Villa  Orotava,  often  have 
pretty,  carved  balconies;  their  unglazed  windows,  closed  with  shut- 
ters only,  generally  have  a  postigo,  or  flap,  from  which  the  inmates 
can  view  the  street. 


venertjje.  LAGDNA.  *•  Route.     37 

The  Cathedral,  founded  in  1513  and  since  1908  in  course  of 
reconstruction,  contains  the  tomb  of  Alonso  Fernandez  deLugo,  the 
conqueror  of  Teneriffe  (1493-6).  From  the  Calle  Juan  de  Vera, 
diverging  to  the  N.,  we  follow  the  first  side-street,  the  Calle  de 
San  Agustin,  to  the  left,  to  the  old  Augustinian  monastery,  once  the 
university,  and  now  the  Institute  de  Canarias,  which  contains 
the  Biblioteca  Publica  (26,000  vols.)  and  a  small  natural  history 
collection.  To  the  right,  in  the  same  street  (No.  28),  is  the  Palacio 
Episcopal,  whose  patio  is  richly  adorned  with  flowers. 

From  the  E.  end  of  the  street  a  few  paces  bring  us  to  the  Plaza 
de  Adelantado,  No.  1  in  which  is  the  old  Palace  of  the  Nava  family. 

From  the  S.  side  of  the  Plaza  the  Calle  de  Santo  Domingo  leads 
to  the  Priests'  Seminary  (Seminario  Conciliar),  once  a  Dominican 
monastery.  In  the  side-street  opposite  No.  30  the  second  door  on 
the  left  leads  into  the  garden  of  a  Farm  Building  (finca)  which 
contains  a  venerable  dragon-tree  (p.  30;  fee). 

The  Iglesia  de  la  Conception,  at  the  W.  end  of  the  town,  con- 
tains a  fine  carved  pulpit. 

Excursions.  A  fine  drive  (12-15  p.)  may  be  taken  via  (41/2  M.)  Tegueste 
and  (5Va  M.)  Tejina,  not  far  from  the  gloomy  Barranco  de  las  Palmas, 
to  (10Va  M.)  the  fishing-village  of  Bajamar,  near  the  Punta  del  Hidalgo, 
a  headland  which  affords  a  splendid  survey  of  the  precipitous  N.  coast  of 
the  island.  —  We  may  also  hire  a  mule  (6  p.)  to  take  us  to  the  laurel  forests 
of  Las  Mercedes  or  La  Mina.  From  Las  Mercedes  we  may  ascend  past 
the  Cruz  el  Carmen  (about  2950  ft.)  with  its  rich  thicket  of  bushes  (Erica 
scoparia),  and  past  the  Cruz  de  Afur  (3405  ft.)  to  the  (3l/2  brs.)  *Cruz  de 
Taganana  (3068  ft.),  a  splendid  point  for  surveying  the  great  Peak  and 
the  E.  coast  as  far  as  Santa  Cruz.  We  may  then  descend  to  the  N.,  through 
a  magnificent  old  *Forest  of  Canary  laurel,  vinatigo  (p.  30),  tree-heath 
(Erica  arborea),  and  Pleiomeris,  to  the  village  of  Taganana  (689  ft.),  near 
which  the  tall  pinnacles  of  the  Hombres  de  Taganana  tower  above  the 
abrupt  rocky  coast.  Or  we  may  go  on  to  the  N.E.  to  the  Cruz  del  Draguillo 
(2205  ft.)  and  descend  thence  to  Igueste  and  San  Andres  (p.  36)  on  the  E. 
coast. — Another  excursion  from  Laguna  is  to  the  (2  hrs.)  ancient  Forest 
of  Agua  Garcia  (p.  38)  to  the  W. 

Beyond  Laguna  the  High  Road,  bordered  at  first  with  eucalypti, 
now  crosses  the  plateau  of  the  Rodeos  to  the  Laguna  Saddle 
(2008  ft. ;  watershed),  and  descends  thence,  affording  fine  *Views  of 
the  Cumbre  (p.  33),  the  Peak  itself,  and  its  spurs,  and  passing  the 
hills  of  Guamaza  famed  for  their  view  of  Tacoronte,  to  the  Bandas 
del  Norte,  the  far  cooler  and  greener  N.  coast  of  the  island. 

12  M.  Tacoronte  (1762  ft. ;  Camacho's  Tacoronte  Hotel,  on 
the  road  above  the  town,  pens,  from  9s.,  good;  pop.  4200),  beauti- 
fully situated,  is  well  adapted  for  a  longer  stay.  Near  it  is  produced 
the  best  wine  in  the  island,  and  its  orange-groves  are  famous. 

From  Tacoronte  to  Puerto  Orotava  a  motor-omnibus  of  the  Grand 
Hotel  (p.  39)  plies  daily  at  noon  in  connection  with  the  tramway  men- 
tioned at  p.  34  (V2 'ir- ;  fare  12  s.);  cab,  ordered  by  telephone  from  Santa 
Cruz,  in  2-2>/a  hrs.,  20-25  p. ;  diligence  (dirty)  at  9  and  5,  viS,  Villa  Orotava 
(3  hrs. ;  fare  3  p.),  to  Puerto  Orotava  (4  hrs. ;  4  p.). 

3* 


38     Route  4:  OROTAVA  VALLEY.  Teneriffe. 

Excursions.  The  road  to  the  N.E.  leads  past  the  slopes  of  the  Montafla 
del  Picon,  and  through  the  Valle  de  G/ierra,  to  (7  M.)  Tejina  (p.  37). — 
To  the  N.  we  may  descend  (IV2  hr.)  to  the  precipitous  rocks  on  the  Coast 
(650-980  ft.),  where  the  numerous  caves  are  said  to  have  once  been  in- 
habited by  the  Guanches  (p.  31).  — To  the  S.E.  lies  the  (l'/2  hr.)  primaeval 
*Forest  of  Agua  Garcia  (2588  ft.),  the  finest  in  Teneritfe,  with  its  huge 
erica  trees  overgrown  with  creepers,  its  venerable  laurels,  and  superb  tree- 
ferns.  Specially  charming  is  a  sequestered  nook  at  the  Madre  d'Agua, 
the  source  of  the  water-conduit. 

The  Puerto  Orotava  road  (conveyance,  see  p.  37),  whence  the 
route  to  Sauzal  diverges  to  the  right  a  little  farther  on,  passes 
through  wheat-fields,  vineyards,  and  orchards,  and  is  bordered  with 
tamarisks,  Canary  palms,  oleanders,  aloes,  and  hedges  of  geranium. 
The  steep  slopes  of  the  Cumbre  are  carefully  cultivated  in  terraces 
up  to  the  evergreen  zone  of  the  cloud-region.  Fine  view  of  the 
rock-bound  coast  and  the  blue  ocean  to  the  right. 

15  M.  Matanza  (1585  ft.;  'slaughter'),  the  scene  of  the  last  de- 
feat of  the  Spanish  invaders  (1494),  is  now  a  village  of  2000  in- 
habitants. 

Beyond  (17  M.)  the  little  town  of  Victoria  (1240  ft.),  where 
the  Guanches  sustained  a  decisive  defeat  in  1494,  the  road  forks. 
The  new  road,  to  the  left,  crosses  the  Barranco  Hondo,  a  ravine 
about  330  ft.  deep,  by  a  viaduct  (1909);  the  old  road  winds  down 
into  the  Barranco  Hondo.  The  two  roads  unite  at  the  church  of 
(20  M.)  Santa  Ursula,  a  palm-girt  village  (886  ft.;  2200  inhab.), 
on  the  crest  of  the  Lad,era  de  Santa  Ursula,  noted  for  its  wine. 
About  1  hr.  above  it  is  the  farm  of  La  Florida  (p.  40). 

Beyond  the  village  we  obtain  a  glimpse,  and  then,  at  the 
Humboldt  Corner,  a  full  and  glorious  view  of  the  **Orotava 
Valley,  the  Taoro  Valley  of  the  Guanches,  famed  at  once  for  its 
harmonious  outlines,  for  its  superb  colouring,  and  for  its  luxuriant 
vegetation.  The  valley,  about  7  M.  long  by  6  M.  wide,  probably 
formed  by  subsidence,  and  descending  rather  rapidly  to  the  sea  in 
terraces,  is  sprinkled  with  smiling  villages  and  countless  white 
country-houses,  embosomed  among  palms,  pines,  orange-trees,  rose- 
bushes, and  climbing  plants,  which  are  abundantly  watered  by 
cuttings  and  conduits  descending  from  the  cloud-region.  The 
tropical  character  of  the  landscape  is  enhanced  by  the  extensive 
plantations  of  bananas.  On  the  E.  and  W.  the  valley  is  flanked 
by  the  lava  slopes,  about  1000  ft.  in  height,  of  the  Ladera  de 
Santa  Ursula  and  the  Ladera  de  Tigaiga,  and  on  the  S.  it  is 
bounded  by  the  Cumbre,  with  the  'organ-pipes'  at  the  S.E.  angle 
(p.  40).  Far  above  its  steep  banks,  but  most  often  concealed  by 
the  trade-wind  clouds,  towers  the  majestic  pyramid  of  the  Peak. 
In  the  middle  of  the  valley  rise  three  eruptive  cones  of  recent 
origin,  the  Montana  de  la  Horca  (833  ft.;  p.  39),  the  Montana 
de  Chaves  (p.  42),  and  the  Montana  de  las  Gaiianias,  which  have 
sent  forth  lava-streams  descending  to  the  sea. 


TenerifTe.  PUERTO  OROTAVA.  •*•  Route.     39 

Beyond  the  Barranco  del  Pinito  the  direct  road  to  (24^2  M.) 
Villa  Orotava  (p.  40)  branches  off  to  the  left,  and  1  M.  farther 
on  another  road  from  that  town  joins  ours.  We  are  next  carried 
through  deep  barrancos  by  means  of  cuttings,  with  their  surprising 
variety  of  layers  of  slag  and  beds  of  lava,  and  at  the  Montana  de 
la  Horca  we  come  to  a  point  where  a  new  road  diverges,  to  the 
left,  for  Realejo  Bajo  (p.  42)  and  Icod  de  los  Vinos  (p.  43).  We 
descend  to  the  right  to  Puerto  Orotava,  passing  a  private  entrance 
to  the  Grand  Hotel  on  our  right 

27V2  M.  Puerto  Orotava. — Hotels  (often  crowded  in  March 
and  April).  *Gra)id  Hotel  (or  'Kurhaus  Humboldt';  about  330ft.),  in  a 
fine  open  situation  on  the  N.  slope  of  the  Montana  de  la  Horca,  with 
splendid  views  from  the  roof-terrace,  beautiful  grounds,  and  sea-baths 
on  the  Martianez  beach  (see  below),  R.  from  4s.,  pens.  12s.  6d.  -20s.;  for 
guests  ascending  the  Peak  the  hotel  provides  mule,  guide,  porter,  accom- 
modation in  the  Alta  Vista  hut,  and  food  for  two  days  for  an  inclusive  sum 
of  30s.  *Hot.  Martianez,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  town,  not  far  from  the  sea, 
once  a  nobleman's  chateau,  with  a  charming  garden,  pens.  12 -15s.;  Hot. 
Monopol,  Plaza  de  la  Iglesia,  R.  2s.  6rf.  -3s.,  pens.  8-10s.,  good  (all  three 
under  German  management);  Hot.  Marquesa,  Plaza  de  la  Iglesia,  pens. 
5-6s.,  Spanish,  well  spoken  of. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office,  Calle  de  Quintana,  near  the  Plaza  de  la 
Iglesia. 

Barker.  T.M.Reid,  Calle  San  Juan.  —  Photographer.  Eaeza,  Calle 
de  la  Hoya.  —  Tenekiffe  Wobk.     Frariken,    Calle  de  Santo  Domingo  10. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Lishman,  Casa  Montana;  Dr.  Perez.  —  Chemist.  R. 
Gomez,  Calle  de  Santo  Domingo. 

Music  in  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion. —  Sortija  Riding  (tilting  at 
the  ring)  in  the  grounds  of  the  Grand  Hotel. 

Carriages.  To  Villa  Orotava  or  Realejo  10  p.;  to  Tacoronte  20-25  p.; 
to  Icod  dc  los  Vinos  25  p.  —  Omnibus  to  Villa  Orotava  twice  daily,  1  p. — 
Mule  (inulo)  to  Agua  Mansa  10  p.,  to  Guimar  121/..,  to  the  Peak  20  p. — 
Donkey  (burro),  5  p.  per  day  (according  to  bargain).  —  Guide  to  the 
Peak  20  p. 

Exglish  Church  (resident  chaplain)  in  the  grounds  above  the  Grand 
Hotel. — English  Cemetery  and  others  to  the  W.  of  the  town. 

Puerto  Orotava,  officially  called  Puerto  de  la  Cruz,  the  most 
popular  invalid  resort  in  +be  Canaries,  a  poor  little  seaport  with 
3100  inliab.,  lies  on  a  delta  formed  by  lava-streams.  The  Calle 
San  Juan,  the  main  street,  in  continuation  of  the  highroad,  de- 
scends, passing  near  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion,  with  its  garden- 
grounds,  to  the  Pier  (Muelle),  whence  the  produce  of  the  Orotava 
Valley  is  conveyed  by  small  boats  to  the  vessels  in  the  roads. 

In  the  Plaza  de  la  Iglesia,  to  the  E.  of  the  Plaza  de  la  Con- 
stitucion, are  the  Iglesia  de  la  Peila  de  Santa  Francisca,  with 
its  new  tower,  and  the  Casas  Consistoriales  or  town-hall,  with  its 
old-fashioned  wooden  balcony.  —  Mr.  R.  Gomez,  the  chemist  (see 
above),  possesses  a  small  Guanche  Museum  (adm.  lp.). 

To  the  E.  of  the  town  a  palm-avenue  leads  along  the  Barranco 

(artianez  to  the  bathing  beach  (Flaya  dc  Martianez).   Beyond 

the  ravine,  about  halfway  up  the  abrupt  coast-hill,  is  the  spring 


40     Route  4.  VILLA  OROTAVA.  Teneriffe. 

called  Fuente  de  Martianez. — A  zigzag  path  ascends  to  the  Sitio 
de  la  Paz  (492  ft.),  once  occupied  by  Ales,  von  Humboldt  (1814), 
and  now  containing  several  memorials  of  that  savant.  A  cypress- 
avenue  is  the  sole  relic  of  the  old  garden  (fee).  —  A  beautiful  walk 
may  be  taken  to  the  Barranco  de  las  Arenas.  V/2  hr.  to  the  E. 

To  the  S.  the  Camino  del  Puerto  (see  below)  leads  past  the 
Observatorio  (belonging  to  the  nautical  observatory  of  Hamburg) 
to  the  ^Botanic  Garden  (Jardiu  Botanico  or  de  Aclimatacion), 
laid  out  in  1788,  which,  though  sadly  neglected,  contains  exquisite 
tlowers,  superb  magnolias,  and  fine  specimens  of  royal,  Canary,  and 
exotic  palms,  dragon-trees  (p.  30),  and  fig-trees  (Ficus  imperialis 
and  Ficus  nitida;  p.  233). 

A  dusty  ioad  (donkey  3  p.)  leads  from  the  cemetery  at  the  W. 
end  of  the  town  to  the  Finca  los  Frailes  of  Dr.  Perez,  with  its 
splendid  avenue  of  palms.  The  road  ends  at  the  Pisco  doBurgado, 
with  its  fissured  lava  cliffs,  washed  by  huge  breakers. 

Pleasant  ride  (4-5  hrs. ;  donkey  4,  horse  8  p.)  by  Los  Frailes  to  Realejo 
Bajo  and  Realejo  Alto  (p.  42),  returning,  above  the  three  eruptive  cones 
(p.  38),  via  Cruz  Santa  (p.  41),  Perdomn,  and  Villa  Orotava. 

From  Puerto  Orotava  the  dusty  roads  mentioned  on  p.  39,  be- 
sides the  Camino  del  Puerto,  the  old  bridle-path,  lead  through  a 
garden-like  region  in  V^-Vj^hr.  to  Villa  Orotava  (1080-1480  ft.; 
Hot.  Suizo,  pens.  6-8 p.,  good;  Hot.  Victoria,  same  charges;  3600 
inhab.)  the  Arautdpala  of  the  Guanches,  now  the  capital  of  the 
Orotava  Valley.  The  antiquated  little  town,  which  has  fallen  into 
great  poverty  since  the  decline  of  the  cochineal  culture  (p.  32), 
occupies  almost  the  loveliest  site  in  the  whole  island. 

At  the  E.  entrance  is  the  Plaza  de  San  Agustin,  with  the  old 
Iglesia  de  San  Agustin  and  a  band-stand,  whence  we  have  a  fine 
view  of  Puerto  Orotava  and  the  sea.  Near  it  is  the  Villa  of 
Marquesa  Quinta,  now  owned  by  Dr.  Perez  (p.  39),  with  its  beau- 
tiful park;  on  the  highest  terrace  is  a  marble  mausoleum  (adm.  to 
both  1  p.). 

In  the  quarter  above  the  Iglesia  de  la  Conception  are  several 
chateaux  of  the  noblesse.  On  the  S.W.  side  of  the  town,  near  the 
monastery  of  San  Francisco  (now  a  hospital),  are  two  old  man- 
sions with  very  handsome  carved  balconies  (comp.  p.  36). 

An  excursion,  attractive  in  clear  weather  only,  may  be  made  to  the 
farm  of  Agua  Mansa  (3491  ft.),  in  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  Orotava  Valley, 
within  the  cloud-region,  IV2  hr.  to  the  S.E.  of  Villa  Orotava.  Steep 
bridle-path;  mule,  see  p.  39.  The  chestnut  and  erica  woods  are  succeeded 
in  the  Barranco  de  la  Arena  by  primaeval  *Pine  Forest,  near  which  is  an 
abrupt  slope  with  huge  columns  of  basalt,  known  as  the  Organos  (organ- 
pipes).  From  Agua  Mansa  we  may  either  ride  back  by  the  W.  margin 
of  the  Ladera  de  Santa  Ursula  (p.  38)  and  the  farm  of  La  Florida,  or 
we  may  cross  the  Pedro  Gil  Pass  (6522  ft.;  the  top  of  the  Cumbre,  to  the 
S.W.,  commands  a  striking  view  of  the  E.  coast  and  the  Grand  Canary) 
to  the  grand  basin  of  the  *Garganta  de  Giiimar,  and  along  the  lava- 
stream  of  1705,  past  Arafo,  to  (6-7  hrs.)  Giiimar  (p.  36). 


i 


Tenerife.  PEAK  OF  TENERIFFE.  *  Route.     41 

The  Ascent  op  the  Peak  of  Teneriffe,  which  is  fatiguing  but 
without  danger,  takes  two  days  and  should  be  made  in  the  warmer  season 
(hotel  arrangement  for  the  ascent,  see  p.  39;  tariffs  for  mule  and  guide, 
also  see  p.  39).  The  excursion  affords  an  admirable  insight  into  the  ge- 
ological structure  of  the  island,  while  the  view  in  clear  weather  is  of 
unparallelled  grandeur.  The  equipment  most  needed  consists  of  riding 
leggings,  an  Alpenstock  (lanza),  stout  boots,  a  lantern,  rugs,  drinking- 
water,  abundant  provisions,  grey  spectacles  or  goggles,  and  lanoline  for 
the  face.  In  the  Canadas  (see  below)  the  guides  and  mule-drivers  often 
refuse  their  services  when  snow  is  falling.  The  shortest  way  to  the  peak 
is  by  the  bridle-path  from  Puerto  Orotava,  via  Cruz  Santa,  to  the  Portillo. 
In  about  10  hrs.  we  reach  the  refuge-hut  of  Alta  Vista,  the  keys  of  which 
are  brought  by  the  guide.  We  may  afterwards  descend  to  Icod  Alto  and 
Realejo  Alto  (p.  42;  about  8  hrs.),  where  a  vehicle  may  be  ordered  to  meet 
us;  or  we  may  descend  via  the  Llano  de  la  Maja  to  Guiniar  (p.  36;  10 hrs.). 

Our  route  ascends  through  every  climatic  zone  in  the  world.  From 
the  tropical  region  of  Puerto  Orotava  we  pass,  beyond  Cruz  Santa  (1500  ft.), 
through  the  Taoro  Basin  into  the  temperate  zone,  the  region  of  maize  and 
cereals,  where  numerous  cottages  are  shaded  by  chestnut-trees.  Leaving 
behind  the  thickets  of  Monte  Verde  and  following  the  Camino  del  Brezal 
with  its  view  of  the  sombre  Ladera  de  Tigaiga  (p.  38),  we  mount,  be- 
yond the  cloud-region,  a  wilderness  of  lava.  A  most  striking  change  of 
scenery  is  observed  at  the  Portillo  (6611  ft.),  lying  a  little  to  the  E.  of 
the  Fortaleza  (p.  42),  and  forming  the  entrance  to  the  *Montafias  de  las 
Caiiadas,  the  lowest  and  oldest  crater.  This  enormous  basin,  6-I2V2  M.. 
in  diameter,  girdles  the  base  of  the  Peak  with  its  ring-shaped  wall  of 
lava  rocks  (650-1650  ft.  high),  the  continuity  of  which  has,  however,  been 
broken  by  later  eruptions.  The  summit  of  the  Peak  is  rarely  free  from 
snow  except  in  August  and  September.  We  now  ride  across  the  Cafunhis 
Plateau  (midday-rest;  view  of  the  Peak),  a  desolate  expanse  of  pumice- 
stone,  overgrown  with  scanty  Eetama  (p.  31),  and  in  summer  enlivened 
by  a  few  goats.  Here  and  there  it  is  intersected  by  huge  lava-streams 
and  covered  with  isolated  eruptive  cones.  The  sky  is  generally  cloud- 
less, the  sun  intensely  hot,  and  the  air  marvellously  clear.  At  the  foot 
of  the  lower  portion  of  the  Peak,  not  far  from  the  spur  of  Los  Rastrojos 
(7562  ft.),  begins  the  toilsome  ascent  over  the  grey-white  pumice-stone 
of  the  Montaila  Blanca  (8691  ft.)  to  the  saddle  adjoining  the  pyramid- 
like peak.  The  zigzag  path  now  mounts  the  slopes  of  slag,  inhabited 
by  rarihits,  mostly  between  streams  of  black  obsidian,  to  the  Lomo  Tieco. 
In  the  midst  of  the  expanse  of  slag  shady  resting-places  are  formed 
here  and  there  by  great  blocks  of  lava,  such  as  the  Estancia  de  los 
Ingleses  (9711  ft.)  and  the  Estancia  de  los  Alemanes  (10,018  ft.).  Below 
the  spot  where  the  lava-streams  unite  to  form  the  sickle-shaped  Piedras 
Xegras  stands  the  refuge-hut  of  Alta  Vista  (10,728  ft.;  accommodation 
for  15  pers.  at  the  utmost,  at  5  p.  each).  From  this  point  we  already 
enjoy,  in  clear  weather,  an  imposing  view  of  the  E.  half  of  the  island, 
of  the  Grand  Canary  (p.  43),  and  even  of  Fuerteventura  and  Lanzarote 
(p.  28),  a  glorious  spectacle  mure  particularly  at  sunset,  when  the  Peak 
gradually  casts  its  shadow  over  the  sea  as  far  as  the  Grand  Canar3r. 

Next  morning  we  start  early.  The  winding  path  ascends  a  field  of 
Lava  to  (1  hr.)  the  Rambleta  (11,713  ft.),  the  central  crater-basin,  out  of 
which  towers  the  trachytic  cone,  covered  with  pumice-stone,  of  the  Piton 
or  Pan  de  Azucar  ('sugar-loaf'),  the  summit  of  the  **Peak  of  Teneriffe, 
or  Pico  de  Teide  (12,175  ft.;  'peak  of  hell').  In  «/s-8/4nr-  we  climlj  its 
slopes  to  the  Corona,  the  very  narrow  margin  of  the  Caldera,  the  in- 
Bigniticant  highest  crater  (77  by  110  yds.;  130  ft.  in  depth),  which  was  still 
aotive  in  the  middle  ages,  but  now  emits  a  few  jets  of  steam  only  from  its 
fumaroles  (comp.  p.  29).  When  the  horizon  is  perfectly  clear,  the  eye 
ranges  over  an  area  of  some  2200  sq.  M. ;  floating,  as  it  were,  in  the  midst  of 
the  boundless  expanse  of  the  ocean,  the  blue  of  which  seems  to  blend  on 
the  horizon  with   the  blue   of   the  sky,    we  can  sometimes  see  the  whole 


42     Route  4.  PEAK  OF  TENERIFFE.  Teneriffe. 

of  the  Canaries,  from  Palma,  Hierro,  and  Gomera  on  the  W.  to  the  far- 
distant  E.  group.  To  the  W.  we  look  down  upon  the  grand  crater  of  the 
Pico  Viejo  (see  below),  the  Chahorra,  and  the  Talus  de  Bilma,  studded  with 
countless  coloured  cinder-cones.  We  survey,  from  the  Fortaleza  on  the 
N.E.  to  the  Morro  del  Cedro  on  the  S.W.,  the  ring-shaped  wall  of  the 
Cafiadas,  with  the  pumice-stone  wilderness  of  the  Canadas  Plateau  and  the 
coloured  lava-masses  of  the  Azulejos  (see  below).  The  older  serrated 
mountains  in  the  island  (pp.  32,  33)  and  the  green  basins  of  Orotava  and 
Icod  are  generally  shrouded  by  a  sea  of  clouds  of  dazzling  whiteness. 

On  the  Descent,  which  experts  may  shorten  at  first  by  glissading 
down  the  cinder-slopes,  we  may  visit  the  Queva  del  Hielo  (11,044  ft.), 
a  fine  lava  cavern  a  little  below  the  Rambleta,  always  tilled  with  ice  and 
water.  From  the  Montana  Blanca  (p.  41)  we  then  turn  to  the  N.  to  the 
Fortaleza  (8300  ft.),  the  only  considerable  height  on  the  N.  margin  of  the 
Cafiadas  wall.  The  bridle-path,  very  steep  and  rough,  next  descends 
to  the  Corona  de  Icod  (about  2900  ft.),  the  highest  point  of  the  Ladera 
de  Tigaiga  (p.  38),  falling  away  to  the  E.  in  a  huge  rocky  slope,  and 
again  offering  a  glorious  view  of  the  Vale  of  Orotava.  Prom  Icod  Alto 
(1716  ft.)  we  may  descend  rapidly  to  the  N.E.  to  Reatejo  Alto  (see  below), 
or  we  may  wend  our  way  due  W.  to  Icod  de  los  Vinos  (p.  43). 

Round  the  CaSadas  is  an  interesting  but  toilsome  excursion.  From 
the  Portillo  (p.  41)  we  strike  to  the  S.  across  the  Canadas  Plateau  to  the 
rocks  of  the  Risco  Verde  (7130  ft.),  on  the  E.  margin  of  the  encircling  wall, 
where  a  lava  cavern  serves  for  night-quarters.  The  path  then  leads  to  the 
S.W.,  skirting  the  basaltic  rock  of  Las  Pilas  (7228  ft.),  passing  below 
the  Espigdn  Hill,  and  along  the  wildly  fissured  and  variegated  Roques 
de  la  Grieta  (7211  ft.),  where  a  new  Observatorio  has  been  built  near  a 
spring  (1909).  This  brings  us  to  the  Guajara  Hill  (8908  ft.),  near  the 
Guajara  Pass  (see  below).  Our  route,  now  running  to  the  W.,  crosses  the 
so-called  Azidejos  (9400  ft.),  a  lava  wall  consisting  partly  of  blue-green 
rock,  and  at  the  Boca  de  Tauze  (7021  ft.)  surmounts  the  huge  lava-streams 
(of  1798  and  1909,  comp.  p.  29)  of  the  Chahorra  (7743  ft.)  and  the  Pico  Viejo 
(10,289  ft.).  To  the  left  rises  the  Morro  del  Cedro  (8000  ft.),  the  highest 
hill  on  the  W.  side  of  the  crater-wall.  From  the  N.W.  side  of  the  Cafiadas, 
whose  girdle-wall  was  here  almost  entirely  destroyed  by  the  numerous 
cones  thrown  up  in  1705  and  1706,  we  next  reach  the  *Pinal  de  la  Guancha, 
the  finest  pine-forest  in  the  island.  Thence  we  traverse  the  huge  lava 
slopes  of  the  homo  de  Vega  (5168  ft.)  to  the  basin  of  Icod  de  los  Vinos 
(p.  43). 

A  somewhat  shorter  path  from  the  Portillo,  crossing  the  saddle  be- 
tween the  Rastrojos  and  the  Montana  Blanca  (p.  41),  leads  to  the  S.W., 
in  3'/2  hrs.,  direct  to  the  Guajara  Pass  (7992  ft.),  which  gives  access  to 
the  village  of  Vila/lor  (4842  ft. ;  inn),  finely  situated  on  the  S.  slope  of 
the  girdle-wall  of  the  Canadas  amid  pinewoods  and  luxuriant  orchards, 
and  noted  for  the  'Vilaflor  embroidery'  (p.  32).  From  the  brow  of  the  Llano 
de  los  Qtiemados  we  overlook  the  late-volcanic  terraces  of  the  Bandas  del 
Siir,  which  are  bare  and  thinly  peopled.  A  fine  excursion  from  Vilaflor  is 
made  via  Escalona  (3750  ft.)  and  Arona  (2198  ft.),  with  views,  towards  the 
W.,  of  the  islands  of  Gomera  and  Hierro,  to  the  little  town  of  Adeje  (935  ft.), 
situated  behind  the  Adeje  Mts.  (p.  32;  Roque  del  Carasco,  etc.),  the  ancient 
Guanche  capital  of  the  island.  Near  it  is  the  *Barranco  del  Inflerno,  the 
upper  half  of  which  is  the  grandest  ravine  in  Teneriffe. 

The  *High  Road,  which  at  the  foot  of  the  Montana  de  Chaves 
(p.  38)  sends  off  a  by-road  to  the  village  of  Bealejo  Alto  (1158  ft.), 
nears  the  sea  at  the  rocky  headland  of  Rambla  de  Castro. 

At  (271/2  M.  from  Santa  Cruz)  Bealejo  Bajo  (883  ft.)  the  La- 
dera de  Tigaiga  (p.  38)  comes  close  down  to  the  coast.  The  next 
stretch  of  road,  as  far  as  (321/.,  M.)  San  Juan  de  la  Bambla 


GBAN  OAXARIA.  4.  Route.     43 

(2000  inhab.),  situated  on  a  recent  lava-stream,  is  particularly  line. 
It  leads  past  abrupt  rocks  and  through  sombre  gorges  (Barrunco 
de  la  Torre,  Barranco Ruiz),  and  often  through  banana  plantations 
and  vineyards  extending  to  the  cliffs  of  the  coast. 

o7'/o  M.  Ieod  de  los  Vinos  (755  ft.;  Hot.  Ingles,  poor),  a 
small  town  with  2000  inhab.,  is  the  chief  place  in  the  *Vale  of 
Icocl,  which  is  bounded  by  the  Ladera  de  Tigaiga,  the  Lomo  de 
Vega,  and  the  Pinal  de  la  Guancha  (p.  42),  rivalling  the  Vale 
of  Orotava  in  fertility  and  beauty.  We  enjoy  here  a  magnificent 
*View  of  the  Peak,  towering  almost  immediately  above  the  coast, 
between  the  Fortaleza  and  the  Pico  Viejo  (p.  42).  A  garden  near 
the  Iglesia  Parroquial  contains  an  old  dragon-tree.  The  Guanches' 
Cave  below  the  village  is  not  worth  visiting  (fee  2  p.). 

A  pleasant  way  back  to  the  Yale  of  Orotava  is  the  bridle-path  via 
Guancha,  Icod  Alto  (p.  42),  and  Realejo  Alto  (p.  42). 


The  Graii  Canaria  or  'Grand  Canary'',  the  second-largest 
island  in  the  archipelago,  nearly  circular  in  form,  with  127,000 
inhab.  in  an  area  of  626  sq.  II. ,  lies  about  66  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Tene- 
riffe.  The  best-watered  and  most  fertile  parts  are  the  environs  of  Las 
Palmas,  the  capital,  and  the  N.  coast.  The  barren  brown  mountains 
in  the  interior,  with  their  sharp  outlines,  culminate  in  the  Pico  de 
las  Nieves  (6400  ft.).  On  every  side  deep  barrancos  or  ravines  de- 
scend to  the  coast,  conspicuous  among  which,  as  we  near  the  island 
from  Teneriffe,  is  the  Barranco  de  Tejeda. 

The  Isleta  (748  ft.),  the  N.E.  promontory  of  Gran  Canaria,  once 
a  separate  island,  has  gradually  been  united  to  the  greater  island 
by  deposits  of  sea-sand  which  form  the  Istmo  de  Guanarteme. 
The  Lighthouse  (Faro)  on  the  Pnnta  Morro  de  la  Vieja,  on  the  N 
side  of  the  Isleta,  is  the  chief  landmark  for  steamers  coming  from 
Teneriffe  or  the  N. 

Beyond  the  Isleta,  in  the  Confital  Bay  opening  to  the  W.,  lies 
Puerto  de  la  Luz  (Hot.  Rayo,  with  cafe,  pens.  6  p.,  a  very  fair 
Spanish  inn;  comp.  Plan,  p.  46),  a  rapidly  rising  place,  the  chief 
port  of  Gran  Canaria,  and  the  best  harbour  in  the  islands.  The 
entrance  to  it  is  protected  by  a  breakwater  (rompeolas),  about 
1100  yds.  long,  and  by  the  Muelle  (mole)  de  Sauta  Catalina  (landing 
or  embarking  in  steam-launches  or  small  boats,  1  p.,  trunk  50  c.). 
The  hotel-agents  from  Las  Palmas  come  on  board. 

A  dusty  Road  leads  from  Puerto  de  la  Luz,  passing  many 
new  buildings,  the  mineral  baths  of  Fuente  de  Santa  Catalina 
(near  which  is  the  English  Church,  p.  45),  and  the  large  hotels 
named  at  p.  44,  to  (4y2  M.)  Las  Palmas.  (Tramway  in  about 
40  min.;  fares  20-40  c. ;  tartana,  a  kind  of  dog-cart,  2,  with  lug- 
gage 3-4  p.) 


44     Rotete  4. 


LAS  PALMAS. 


Gran  Canaria 


Las  Palmas.  —  Hotels.  Santa  Catalina,  .pens.  10-16.?.,  and  M6- 
tropole,  pens.  10-12S.,  both  on  the  road  to  the  harbour  (comp.  Plan,  p.  46), 
ca.  3/4  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  with  beautiful  gardens  towards  the  sea, 
tennis-courts,  etc.;  both  closed  in  summer.  —  In  the  town:  Hot.  Contin- 
ental (PI.  c;  B,  2),  with  American  bar  and  pretty  garden,   pens,  from  8«. 


6d.,  knd  Quiney's  English  Hotel  (PI.  d;  B,  2),  E.  4-6,  B.  1,  D.  5,  pens. 
10-15S.,  both  in  the  Plaza  de  San  Bernardo  (p.  45),  in  a  quiet  and  pleasant 
situation.  —  Catalan  Hotel  (PI.  e;  B,  3),  Calle  de  los  Remedios  8,  pens.  6  p., 
and  Cuatro  Naciones  (PI.  f ;  B,  4),  Alameda  de  Colon,  with  cafe,  pens.  6  p., 
both  quite  Spanish.  —  The  best  table-water  is  Agua  Firgas. 

Post  Office  (Correos;  PI.  1,  B  4),  Plaza  de  Santa  Ana  (best  hours  12-4). 
Telegraph  Office  (Telegrafo;  PI.  5,  A  2),  Calle  de  Domingo  J.  Navarro  36. 


Gran  Oonaria.  LAS  PALMAS.  *■  Route.      45 

Theatre  (PI.  C,  8),  at  the  month  of  the  Barranco  Guiniguada. — Music 
in  the  Alameda  de  Col6n. 

Bankers.  Miller  Jc  Co.,  Muelle  de  Santa  Catalina,  in  Puerto  de  la  Luz; 
Blandy  Bros.  &  Co.,  Calle  Mayor  de  Triana  68,  and  others. 

Steamboat  Agents.  Miller  &  Co.  (see  above),  for  the  Union  Castle, 
the  Austro-Americana,  Aberdeen  (Rennie's),  Bucknall,  and  other  lines; 
Grand  Canary  Coawng  Co.,  for  the  Peninsular  &  Oriental  Co.  and  the 
Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Co.;  Bc.hrem ,  at  Puerto  de  la  Luz,  to  the  N. 
of  the  Muelle  de  Santa  Catalina,  for  the  German  East  African,  Woer- 
mann,  and  Hamburg-American  Lines;  Elder,  Dempster,  &  Co.,  Calle  Mayor 
de  Triana  93,  for  the  Vapores  Correos  Interinsulares  Canarios;  M.  Curbelo 
&  Co.,  Calle  de  Muro,  for  the  Compaiiia  Trasatlantica. 

Carriages  (stands  in  the  Plaza  de  Cairasco,  in  the  Plaza  de  San 
Bernardo,  and  near  the  theatre).  Drive  in  the  town  for  1-3  pers.  l'/2,  for 
4  pers.  2  p. ;  per  hour  2>/2  (or  for  a  tartana  or  dog-cart  2)  p. ;  to  Puerto  de  la 
Luz  5  (tartana  2)  p.;  to  the  Monte,  Telde,  or  Arucas  15  (tartana  127.2)  p.;  to 
Atalaya,  San  Mateo,  or  Teror  20  (tartana  15)  p. 

English  Church,  near  the  Hot.  Mctropole,  on  the  road  to  Puerto  de 
la  Luz  (corap.  Plan,  p.  4G). — English  Club  at  Puerto  de  la  Luz. 

Las  Palmas,  a  town  of  28,600  inhab.,  of  a  S.  Spanish  type  like 
Santa  Cruz  (comp.  p.  35),  the  seat  of  the  bishop  of  Gran  Canada, 
situated  in  28°  6'  N.  lat.  and  15°  12'  "W.  long.,  is  the  busiest  and 
wealthiest  town  in  the  whole  archipelago.  The  houses  of  the  well- 
to-do  townspeople,  built  of  pale-grey  tufa  or  blue  lava-basalt,  often 
enclose  beautiful  patios  filled  with  plants,  which  are  watered  by 
means  of  pipes  conducted  from  the  roofs.  On  the  hills  at  the  back  of 
the  town,  which  have  been  fortified  since  the  Spanish  and  American 
war,  are  sprinkled  many  gaily  painted  country-houses. 

Las  Palmas  is  divided  into  two  parts  (barrios)  by  the  Barranco 
de  Guiniguada:  on  the  N.  Triana,  and  on  the  S.  Vegueta. 

The  main  street  of  Triana,  with  its  numerous  shops,  in  line 
with  the  road  from  Puerto  de  la  Luz,  is  called  Calle  Mayor  de 
Triana  (PI.  B,  C,  1-3).  Beyond  the  Baranquillo  de  Mata  it  inter- 
sects the  Plaza  San  Telmo  (PI.  B,  1),  in  which  rises  the  Gobierno 
MUitar  (PI.  2;  B,  1). 

The  Paseo  de  Bravo  Murillo  (PI.  B,  A,  1)  ascends  the  gorge  to 
the  right  to  the  Carretera  del  Norte  (p.  47).  On  the  left  is  the 
Harbour  (PI.  B,  C,  1),  with  the  pier  (Muelle),  where  the  sea-breezes 
may  be  enjoyed  in  hot  weather. 

From  the  Calle  Mayor  de  Triana,  farther  on,  the  Calle  Constan- 
tino diverges  to  the  right  to  the  Plaza  de  San  Bernardo  (PI.  A,  B,  2), 
a  square  planted  with  Indian  laurels.  Near  the  S.  end  of  the  street 
the  Calle  del  General  Bravo  leads  to  the  Alameda  de  Colon  (PI.  B,  3), 
which  is  embellished  with  a  bust  of  Columbus  and  fine  royal  and 
date  palms  (p.  30).  In  this  square  rise  the  Iglesia  de  San  Fran- 
cisco (1689)  and  the  Casino. 

The  central  point  of  Vegueta  is  the  Plaza  de  Santa  Ana  (PI.  B,  4), 
where  the  guides  lie  in  wait  for  strangers.  The  bronze  dogs  at  the 
lower  end  of  the  plaza,  as  well  as  those  in  the  arms  of  the  town, 
recall  the  tradition  that  Juba  II.  (p.  31)  carried  away  some  dogs 
(canes)  from  the  island,  and  that  their  name  is  derived  thence. 


46     Route  4.  MONTE.  Gran  Canaria. 

The  Cathedral  (PI.  B,  C,  4;  San  Christobal),  founded  in  1497 
and  restored  in  1781,  with  its  heavy  facade  flanked  with  towers 
184  ft.  high,  contains,  in  the  first  chapel  of  the  left  aisle,  the  tomb- 
stone of  the  native  poet  Bart.  Cairasco  deFigueroa  (1540-1610),  and 
in  the  crypt  the  tomb  of  Viera  y  Clavijo  (1731-1802),  the  historian 
of  the  Canaries. 

The  Town  Hall  (Palacio  Municipal;  PI.  B,  4),  built  in  1842, 
contains,  on  the  third  floor,  the  Museo  Canario,  consisting  of  nat- 
ural history  collections  and  of  curiosities  from  the  Guanche  caverns 
of  the  Isleta  (p.  43)  and  other  places  (implements,  weapons,  and 
tools  in  basalt,  obsidian,  horn,  wood,  and  clay,  leather-work,  and 
mummies).   Adm.  free,  daily  11-3. 

For  a  prolonged  stay  the  Monte  is  preferable  to  Las  Palmas.  It 
is  reached  by  the  Carretera  del  Centre  (comp.  PI.  A,  5),  the  best 
road  in  the  island.  Ascending  from  the  suburb  of  San  Roque,  and 
soon  affording  splendid  views,  the  road  at  first  follows  the  Bar- 
ranco  de  Guiniguada  (p.  45),  and  then  winds  up  the  slopes  of  the 
Pico  del  Viento  (820  ft.). 

33/4  M.  Tafira  (1230  ft.;  Hotel  Victoria;  James's  Boarding 
House),  the  first  village  on  the  *Monte,  a  colony  of  villas  and  a 
favourite  winter  resort  of  the  English. 

8  M.  Santa  Brigida  (1572  ft.;  Hot.  Santa  Brigida,  in  a  fine 
open  situation  with  a  beautiful  park,  pens,  from  10s.  6d. ;  Quiney's 
Bella  Vista,  1/2  M.  below  the  other,  pens.  8-10s.),  a  finely  situated 
village  with  500  inhabitants. 

The  road,  still  unfinished,  goes  on  to  Telde  (p.  47),  passing  the 
curious  cave-village  of  Atalaya  (1720  ft.),  which  rises  in  terraces 
on  the  hill-side.  The  tufa  walls  of  the  cave-dwellings  are  hung  with 
mats.  The  industry  of  the  place  is  the  manufacture  of  pottery, 
notably  the  porous  water-jars  so  common  in  N.  Africa. 

The  ascent  of  the  *Pico  de  Vandama  (1838  ft.)  may  be  made 
from  Atalaya  or  direct  from  Santa  Brigida  (there  and  back  2  hrs. ; 
mule  3  p.).  This  hill,  overgrown  with  pines  and  tree-like  broom, 
overlooks  the  grand  mountain  landscape  of  the  E.  coast.  Very 
striking  is  the  view  of  the  *  Colder  a  de  Vandama,  a  huge  crater- 
basin  of  about  550  yds.  in  diameter  and  683  ft.  in  depth.  Its  floor 
is  planted  with  vines  and  cereals,  and  it  is  worth  while  to  ride 
down  into  it. 

The  Carretera  del  Centro  leads,  beyond  the  bifurcation  for  Atalaya, 
to  (13  M.)  the  little  town  of  San  Mateo  (2575  ft. ;  fair  inn),  superbly 
situated  among  the  mountains.  Rough  mule-tracks  lead  thence  to  the 
Pico  de  las  Nieves  (6400  ft.),  to  the  village  of  Tejeda  (3160  ft.)  in  the 
*Barranco  de  Tejeda  (p.  43),  and  to  the  cave-village  of  Artenara. 

Scarcely  less  attractive  than  the  Monte  road  is  the  *Carretera 
del  Sur,  which  leads  from  Las  Palmas,  at  first  passing  the  ceme- 
teries, then  skirting  the  rocks  of  the  E.  coast,  and  at  length  turning 


■ 


" 


Palma.  SANTA  CRUZ.  4.  Route.     47 

inland,  piercing  the  lava-rock  by  a  tunnel,  to  Ginamar  and  (8  M.) 
Telde  (394ft.;  inn;  pop.  4000),  a  picturesque  little  town  amidst 
beautiful  orange-groves. 

The  Carretera  del  Norte,  crossing  the  Barranco  de  San  Lorenzo  and 
the  road  from  Puerto  de  la  Luz  (p.  43)  at  Tamaraceite,  and  farther  on, 
beyond  a  long  tunnel,  the  Barranco  de  Tenoya  above  the  village  of  that 
name,  leads  to  (10  M.)  Arucas  (1017  ft.;  two  inns),  an  industrial  little 
town  of  2900  inhab.,  at  the  foot  of  the  Montana  de  Arucas,  a  hill  affording 
tine  views.    The  sugar-cane  is  cultivated  in  the  vicinity. 

A  by-road  diverges  from  this  carretera,  beyond  the  Barranco  de  San 
Lorenzo,  to  (12V2  M.)  Teror  (1936  ft. ;  dirty  inn),  a  little  town  with  the 
famous  pilgrimage-church  of  the  Virgen  del  Pino  (16th  cent.). 


The  island  of  Palma,  or  La  Palma,  in  the  extreme  N.W. 
of  the  archipelago,  28^2  II.  long  and  17  M.  broad,  lying  about 
16^2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Teneriffe,  is  remarkable  for  its  fine  scenery 
and  superb  forests,  but  is  as  yet  rarely  visited  by  tourists.  The 
famous  Caldera,  the  largest  and  deepest  of  all  the  crater-basins 
in  the  islands,  opens  towards  the  W.  in  the  huge  Barranco  de  las 
Angustias,  while  many  smaller  gorges  render  the  N.  coast  in 
particular  very  difficult  of  access.  The  whole  of  the  S.  part  of  the 
island  is  of  recent  volcanic  origin  and  therefore  poorly  watered. 
The  population  (42,000,  in  an  area  of  280  sq.  M.)  is  confined  to 
the  S.E.  margin  of  the  island  and  the  middle  of  the  W.  slopes 
Many  of  the  natives  emigrate,  especially  to  Cuba. 

Starting  from  Santa  Cruz  de  Tenerife  (p.  33)  the  steamer  rounds 
the  Anaga  Mts.,  with  the  lighthouse  already  named  (p.  33),  and 
steers  to  the  W.  from  the  Punta  del  Hidalgo  (p.  37)  to  Palma. 
The  lighthouse  on  the  Punta  de  Teno  (23  ft.),  the  N.W.  point  of 
Teneriffe,  remains  visible  for  some  time.  The  bold  coast  of  Palma 
presents  a  grand  appearance  as  we  approach. 

Santa  Cruz  de  la  Palma.  —  Hotels.  Hot.  Miramar;  Hot. 
Espaflol;  Hot.  International;  Fonda  Verbena,  pens.  4-5  p.  —  Carriage 
to  Los  Llanos  45  p.  (also  motor-omnibus).  —  Mule  per  day  5-6,  to  Los 
Llanos  7>/s  p. 

Santa  Cruz  de  la  Palma,  the  only  considerable  port  (5700 
inhab.)  in  the  island,  lies  on  the  E.  coast,  on  an  open  bay  which 
is  much  exposed  to  sand-drifts.  The  houses  rise  in  terraces  on 
the  steep  hill-side,  overtopped  by  tall  Canary  palms.  The  chief 
export  is  tobacco,  which  is  little  inferior  to  that  of  Havana. 
Cigar-factory  of  J.  Cabrera  Martin. 

The  main  street,  in  which  rises  the  Town  Hall  (Ayuntamiento) 
of  1563,  leads  to  a  picturesque  triangular  plaza  with  the  church  of 
San  Salvador  and  several  handsome  houses.  Close  by  is  the  small 
Museum  (Museo  de  Historia  Natural  y  Etnografico).  A  beautiful 
palm-avenue  leads  through  the  upper  part  of  the  town. 

Excursions.  To  the  N.W.  we  may  ascend  through  the  Barranco  de 
la  Madera,  with  its  cave-dwellings  (Cuevas  de  los  Guanches)  to  the  loftily 
situated   pilgrimage-church   of   the    Virgen  de   las  Nieves   (16th  cent.); 


48     Route  4.  CALDERA.  Palma. 

thence  either  to  the  Montana  de  Tagoje  (ahout  3300  ft. ;  with  grand  view 
of  the  E.  coast,  of  Gomera  and  Teneriffe),  or  to  the  Pico  del  Cedro 
(7471  ft.)  on  the  E.  margin  of  the  Caldera  (see  helow),  round  which  we 
may  ride  to  the  Roqne  de  los  Muchachos  (7693  ft.)  on  the  N.  side. — To 
the  S.W.,  following  the  old  bridle-path  which  cuts  off  the  windings  of 
the  road,  we  may  walk  or  ride  to  (1  hr.)  Buena  Vista  (about  660  ft.), 
whence  a  rough  mule-track  ascends  to  the  (2  hrs.)  Ctimbre  Nueva 
(4593  ft.),  the  chief  mountain-pass  in  the  island,  where  we  have  a  grand 
*View  of  the  abrupt  rocks  and  the  pine-woods  of  the  central  chain,  of 
the  fertile  plains  to  the  W.,  and  of  the  distant  Peak  of  Teneriffe.  Then 
we  proceed  through  pine-forest,  past  the  venerable  'Pino  de  la  Virgen', 
to  El  Paso  (2060  ft.;  inn),  whence  we  may  ascend  the  Cumbrecita  (4445  ft.) 
and  the  Idafe,  the  sacred  mount  of  the  Guanchcs,  on  the  S.  margin  of 
the  Caldera.  Finally  we  descend  to  the  (3  hrs.)  little  town  of  Los  Llanos 
(1000  ft.;  poor  inn,  bargaining  advisable).  From  Los  Llanos  it  takes  a 
day  (7-8  hrs.,  there  and  back)  to  visit  the  *Caldera,  a  vast  basin,  nearly 
5900  ft.  deep  and  8-4'/2M.  in  diameter,  situated  in  the  heart  of  the  island 
and  rarely  quite  cloudless.  A  tedious  ride  up  the  Barranco  de  las 
Angi/stias  brings  us  to  the  farm-building  of  Tenera  (3642  ft.),  whence 
we  look  down  on  the  floor  of  the  Caldera,  which  is  partly  clothed  with 
pines.  The  best  way  to  return  from  Los  Llanos  to  Santa  Cruz  is  to  drive 
(34'/2  M.)  by  the  road  passing  Las  Manchas,  Fuencalicnte  (2297  ft.),  Mazo 
(1312  ft.),  and  Brefia  Baja;  or  we  may  ride  across  the  Cumbre  Vieja 
(6660  ft.),  the  pass   between  Las  Manchas  and  the  Barranco  Aduares. 


in.  ANDALUSIA.! 


Koute  Page 

Geographical    and    Historical   Sketch.     Preliminary 
Notes 49 

5.  Gibraltar 52 

6.  From  Gibraltar  to  Seville 56 

a.  Via  Bobadilla  and  Utrera .56 

b.  Via  Tangier  and  Cadiz 57 

7.  Seville 59 

a.  The  Plaza  del  Triunfo  with  the  Alcazar  and  the  Cathe- 
dral, 61.  —  b.  The  Central  and  Eastern  Quarters  (Casa  del 
Ayuntamiento,  Casa  de  Pilatos,  University).  65. —  c.  The 
Western  and  South-Western  Quarters  (Museo  Provincial, 
Hospital  de  la  Caridad,  Public  Gardens),  66. 

8.  From  Seville  to  Cordova 68 

9.  From  Cordova  via  Bobadilla  to  Granada       ....     72 

10.  Granada 73 

a.  The  Lower  Town,  75.  — b.  Darro  Valley  and  Alhaicin,  78. 
—  c.  The  Alharabra,  79.  — d.  The  Generalife,  87. 

11.  From  Granada  via  Bobadilla  to  Malaga 88 


Andalusia,  the  southmost  region  of  Spain,  is  geologically  of 
somewhat  recent  origin.  In  the  tertiary  period  the  sea  still  washed 
the  southern  shores  of  the  Iberian  table-land,  until  a  pressure  acting 
in  a  direction  from  S.  to  N.  gradually  lifted  up  a  new  coast  in  long 
parallel  folds,  while  the  Mediterranean  forced  a  new  passage  to 
the  ocean  through  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar  (comp.  p.  xxix).  Latest 
of  all  appeared  the  Guadalquivir  Bay,  the  highest  point  of  whose 
coast  scarcely  rises  490  ft.  above  the  sea.  The  coast-hills,  which 
have  their  counterpart  in  the  Rif  Mts.  on  the  African  side  (p.  93), 
stretch  in  the  main  from  E.  to  W.,  descending  abruptly  to  the  sea. 
Transverse  fissures,  in  which  volcanic  activity  is  still  indicated 
by  frequent  earthquakes,  divide  the  coast  into  several  different 
chains,  which  culminate  in  the  Sierra  Nevada  (11,421  ft.;  'snow- 
mountain'),  the  highest  peak  in  Spain.  The  W.  chain  (Serrania 
de  Honda)  trends  round  to  the  N.  In  contrast  to  the  Andalucia 
Alta,  the  folded  region  facing  the  Mediterranean,  the  And'ilucla 
Baja,  the  basin  of  the  Guadalquivir,  opens  towards  the  Atlantic. 

i   Fuller  details  in  Baedckei-'s  Spain  and  Portugal. 
Baedeker's  Mediterranean.  A. 


50  ANDALUSIA. 

The  Guadalquivir  (Arabic  Wdd  al-Kebir,  'the  great  river'),  the 
Baetis  of  antiquity,  rises  indeed  in  the  Sierra  de  Cazorla,  apart 
from  the  coast-mountains,  but  receives  its  more  copious  affluents, 
particularly  the  Guadiana  Menor,  from  the  Sierra  Nevada.  After 
a  wild  career  it  enters  the  plain  beyond  Montoro,  becomes  na- 
vigable at  Cordova,  and  even  carries  seagoing  vessels  at  Seville. 

The  History  of  the  country  dates  from  hoar  antiquity.  It  was 
the  Tarshish  of  the  Bible,  being  already  named  in  the  generations 
of  Noah  (Gen.  x.  4),  and  was  called  by  the  Greeks  Tartessos,  the 
home  of  precious  metals,  especially  of  silver,  the  source  of  the 
wealth  of  Tyre.  Here,  too,  are  the  rich  copper  mines  of  Rio  Tinto 
and  Tharsis,  which  were  already  worked  in  the  ancient  Iberian 
age.  The  Mediterranean  peoples  contented  themselves  with  visiting 
the  harbours  established  in  the  bays  of  the  coast,  leaving  it  to  the 
natives  to  bring  the  produce  of  the  interior  down  to  them  across 
the  mountains  or  by  the  river  Baetis.  Thus  arose,  probably  even 
before  the  foundation  of  Cadiz,  the  Phoenician  towns  of  Mdlaca 
(Malaga)  and  Kalpe  (Gibraltar),  besides  other  small  settlements. 
About  1100  B.C.  Gadlr  or  Gades,  the  westmost  of  these,  appears 
in  history,  and  afterwards  became  dependent  on  Carthage.  The  art 
of  writing,  the  first  and  most  potent  aid  to  commerce,  was  propagated 
from  Gades,  which  thereby  laid  the  foundation  of  the  higher  civili- 
zation of  the  peninsula.  Summoned  to  their  aid  by  the  Gaditanians, 
the  Carthaginians,  who  had  already  gained  possession  of  the  Balearic  ■ 
Islands,  invaded  Iberia.  After  the  Punic  Wars  (p.  345)  came  the 
domination  of  the  Romans,  who  in  27  A.D.  gave  the  whole  of 
S.  Spain  the  name  of  Proviucia  Baetica.  On  the  break-up  of  the 
Roman  Empire  Andalusia  was  overrun  by  the  Vandals  (p.  322),  the 
Suevi,  and  the  Visigoths.  At  length  the  Arabs  and  the  Berbers  of 
Morocco  obtained  a  footing  here,  after  they  had  crossed  the  Straits 
of  Gibraltar  under  Tarik  (p.  54).  By  them  this  region,  and  after- 
wards the  whole  peninsula  which  they  conquered,  were  named  El- 
Andalus  ('land  of  the  West').  Down  to  the  13th  cent,  the  Moors 
occupied  Andalusia,  and  it  was  not  till  1492  that  Granada  was 
captured  by  Ferdinand  V.,  the  Catholic. 

These  vicissitudes  in  the  country's  history  are  still  reflected  in 
its  present  Inhabitants.  Half  African,  half  European,  like  the 
Maltese,  the  Sicilians,  and  the  Sardinians,  the  Andalusians  have 
inherited  something  of  the  character,  the  customs,  and  the  lan- 
guage of  all  the  nations  that  once  held  sway  in  this  region.  To 
this  day  the  Andalusian  dialect  swarms  with  Arabic  words;  almost 
all  the  terms  used  in  agriculture  and  irrigation  are  Arabic.  The 
popular  dances  and  music  are  of  Oriental  origin.  To  their  Oriental 
ancestry  the  Andalusian  (Andahiz,  Andaluza)  also  owes  his  exu- 
berant imagination.  There  can  be  no  greater  contrast  than  that 
which  the  calm  and  proud  Old-Castilian  presents  to  the  volatile 


ANDALUSIA.  51 

and  excitable  Andalusiau,  who  is  apt  to  substitute  fancy  for  fact, 
who  sees  everything  as  through  a  magnifying  glass,  and  who  is 
therefore  much  given  to  exaggeration  (fanfarrunadas).  On  the 
other  hand  nothing  can  be  more  charming  thau  the  bearing  of  an 
Andalusiau  'maja',  who  is  admired  rather  for  her  wit,  her  grace, 
and  her  power  of  repartee  than  for  her  beauty.  The  Sal  Andaluza 
is  as  proverbial  as  the  Attic  'salt'  of  the  ancients. 

Andalusia  can  boast  of  possessing,  not  only  some  of  the  finest 
and  most  interesting  Moorish  Buildings  in  Spain,  such  as  the 
mosque  at  Cordova,  the  Giralda  and  Alhambra  at  Granada,  but 
also  several  of  the  grandest  monuments  of  the  'rcconquista'  period. 
Among  these  are  the  Alcazar  of  Seville,  one  of  the  most  brilliant 
creations  of  the  so-called  Mudejar,  or  Moorish-Christian  style,  and 
the  grand  cathedrals  of  Seville  and  Granada  in  the  Gothic  and 
'plateresque',  or  Spanish  early-Renaissance,  styles.  —  Nor  is  the 
Scenery  of  this  region  less  attractive.  Andalusia  may  be  said  to 
stand  in  the  same  relation  to  Spain  as  Sicily  to  Italy,  or  as  Pro- 
vence to  the  rest  of  France.  It  combines  all  that  the  rest  of  the 
peninsula  possesses  locally  or  partially.  To  the  E.  are  vast  plateaux 
and  steppes,  frozen  in  winter  and  parched  in  summer;  to  the  S. 
rise  snow-clad  mountains;  on  the  S.W.  are  the  sand-dunes  of  the 
Atlantic  coast;  olive-groves  thrive  on  the  Guadalquivir;  and  on 
the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean  are  well-watered  vegas  where  the 
cotton-plant,  the  banana,  and  the  sugar-cane  flourish. 

Mediterranean-  Travellers  will  hardly  have  time  for  more  than  a 
circular  tour  from  Gibraltar  to  Tangier,  Cadiz,  Seville,  Cordova,  Granada, 
and  back  to  Gibraltar,  or,  in  unfavourable  weather,  to  Algeciras,  Boba- 
dilla,  and  Seville  only.  The  Spanish  railways  (see  the  Guia  general  de 
Ferrocarriles ;  1  p.,  smaller  edition  75  c.)  are  far  inferior  to  the  British 
or  to  the  French,  and  their  speed  is  very  low.  The  natives  travel  mostly 
iu  the  second  or  third  class,  but  the  carriages  cannot  be  recommended. 
The  first  class  often  has  a  berlina,  or  eoupc-carriago  with  four  seats, 
which  affords  an  unimpeded  view  (higher  fare). 

In  the  larger  towns  one  may  book  luggage  (facturar  el  equipaje) 
1-2  hrs.  before  the  departure  of  the  train,  at  the  despacho  central,  or 
town-office.  Booking  it  at  the  station  itself  is  a  very  slow  process.  As 
iu  France  luggage  up  to  30  kilos  (06  lbs.)  is  free.  The  ticket  for  it  is  called 
a  talun  or  bolttin  de  equipaje.  The  porter  (mozo),  often  most  impor- 
tunate, receives  30-50  c.  or  more. 

Andalusia  possesses  few  first-class  hotels.  The  better  second-class 
inns  are  similar  to  the  French  and  Italian.  Even  for  a  stay  of  a  single 
day  it  is  usual  to  pay  an  inclusive  charge  for  bed  and  board  (pupilaje, 
from  6  to  20  p.).  Dejeuner  or  lunch  (11-1  o'clock)  is  called  almuerzo; 
dinner,  comida  (at  or  after  7);  table-wine,  vino  comitn  or  de  mesa.  No 
allowance  is  made  for  meals  omitted.  An  extra  charge  is  often  made  for 
breakfast  (coffee,  etc.),  which  Spanish  travellers  usually  take  in  their  own 
rooms.  Notice  of  departure  should  be  given  as  early  as  possible,  lest  a 
whole  additional  day  be  charged  for.  The  usual  "fee  to  the  servants 
(camareru,  Waiter;  muehacha,  chamber-maid;  mozo,  boots),  who  are  apt 
to  be  lazy  and  inattentive,  is  1  p.  per  day,  divided  among  them,  or  more 
in  proportion  for  families. 

The  beer-houses  are  called  cervecerias.  The  cafes  are  usually  open 
in  the  afternoon  and  evening  only.     Cafe  con  leche  is  coffee  with  milk; 

4* 


52     Routes.  GIBRALTAR.  Practical 

cafd  solo  is  without  milk.  Newspapers  (periddicos)  are  not  provided  by 
the  cafes.  Tobacco  aud  cigars  are  a  government  monopoly;  the  shop  is 
called  estanco;  there  are  also  special  shops  for  the  better  Havana  cigars. 

The  post-offices  {correo),  even  in  the  larger  towns,  are  often  open  for 
a  few  hours  only.  The  hours  for  obtaining  poste-restante  (cartas  en  lista) 
or  registered  letters"  cartas  certiflcadas)  are  often  changed;  the  addressee 
must  show  his  visiting-card  (tarjeta)  at  the  office.  Stamps  [sellos  de  correo ; 
for  the  town  10,  country  15,  abroad  25  c.)  and  post-cards  (tarjetas  postales. 
10  c.)  are  obtainable  at  the  tobacco-shops  only.  Telegrams  (telegramas) 
must  be  prepaid  with  special  stamps  (sellos  de  teligrafos),  for  the  sale  of 
which  there  are  separate  offices. 

The  Spanish  peseta  (p.),  divided  into  100  centimos  (c),   is   scar 
equal  to  the  franc  in  value.     The  only  valid  banknotes  are  those  of 
Madrid  Banco  de  Espafla.    The  5  p.  piece  is  popularly  called  a  duro 
the  10  c.  and  5  c.  copper  coins  are  often  termed  perro  grande  and  perro 
chico  ('big  and  little  dog')  in  jocular  allusion  to  the  lions  in  the  coat-of- 
arms.    Change  should  be  examined  carefully,  as  base  coin  is  common. — 
At  Gibraltar  the  currency  is  English,  but  Spanish  money  is  received,  except 
at  the  post  and  telegraph  office. 


\ 


5.  Gibraltar. 

Arrival.  The  ocean-going  steamers  land  and  embark  their  passengers 
in  their  own  steam-tenders  at  any  time  before  sunset  at  the  Commercial 
Pier  (fare  for  each  pers.  is.  either  way).  The  tariff  for  small  boats  is  Is.  6rf. 
for  a  row  in  the  harbour,  or  to  or  from  the  steamboats,  for  1-2  pers., 
and  Is.  for  each  addit.  person;  luggage  up  to  56  lbs.  free;  excess,  6d. 
per  56  lbs.;  or  a  bargain  may  be  made  (l-2s.  for  passenger,  incl.  luggage). 
In  bad  weather  the  tariff  is  raised,  in  accordance  with  the  signals  (red, 
blue,  bluish-white),  to  one-third  more,  or  double,  or  triple  fare.  The 
porters  are  notorious  for  their  extortionate  demands.  The  charge  for  con- 
veying luggage  to  the  hotel  should  be  fixed  beforehand.  —  The  Custom 
House  Examination  at  the  harbour-gate  is  confined  to  tobacco,  spirits, 
and  weapons.  Foreigners  require  a  permit  from  the  Police  Office  (PI.  2) 
to  spend  the  day  on  shore,  and  if  they  intend  to  spend  the  night  the 
permit  must  be  renewed  by  their  landlord.  Between  5.30  and  8.15,  accord- 
ing to  the  season,  a  cannon-shot  (gun-fire)  announces  the  closing  of  the 
Land  Port  (p.  55).     The  other  gates  remain  open  till  11. 

Hotels  (the  inclusive  charge  for  the  day  should  be  ascertained). 
Hot.  Bristol  (PI.  a),  Cathedral  Square,  quiet  and  pleasant;  Grand  Hotel. 
(PI.  b)  and  Hot.  Cecil  (PI.  c),  both  in  Waterport  St.;  these  three  have 
high  charges,  from  10-12s.  a  day  and  upwards;  Hot.  Paris  (PI.  f),  opposite 
the  post-office,  new,  pens.  8-15  fr. — Plainer:  Hot.  Continental  (PI.  d), 
Turnbull's  Lane;  Hot.  Victoria,  Church  St.,  caf e-restaur. ;  Nuevo  Hot. 
EspaSol  (PI.  e),  Irish  Town,  pens.  8s.,  tolerable.  —  The  drinking-water 
(rain-water  from  cisterns)  is  not  good.  —  Cafes.  Universal,  Church  St. ; 
also  at  the  Assembly  Rooms  (p.  53). 

Cabs  (stands  at  Waterport  Gate,  Commercial  Sq.,  and  Cathedral  Sq.). 
Drive  for  1-2  pers.  in  the  lower  town,  between  Waterport  Gate  and 
Alameda,  6d. ;  in  the  upper  quarters  (Governor's  St.)  9a!.;  to  Catalan 
Bay  Is.  3d.;  to  the  lighthouse  Is.  4d. ;  to  Governor's  Cottage  Is.  9d. —  Per 
hour,  for  1-2  pers.,  Is.  6d. ;  for  each  addit.  1I2  hr.  6d. ;  3d.  extra  for  each 
addit.  pers.,  or  5a7.  extra  for  the  longer  drives  (lighthouse,  Governor's 
Cottage,  etc.).  —  Each  trunk  2d. — The  tariff  is  in  force  only  from  daybreak 
till  midnight.    A  bargain  should  be  made  beforehand. 

Post  Office  (PI.  1),  Waterport  St.;  week-days  7  a.m.-8  p.  m.  (on  Sun. 
8-10  a.  m.).  The  overland  English  mail  closes  at  6.45  a.  m.  —  Telegraph 
Office,  same  place;  6  a.  m.  till  midnight.  Tariff  to  England  30*.  or  (via 
Malta)  6d.  per  word;  to  the  United  States  Is.  id. -Is.  lid.  per  word. 


I.im-;i  clcl.VCtmrepcioti         ,u's-"b^l.v 


n  v,  \\y  r  a  ],     v,  it  i)  r  \  d 


.,,.. 


GIBRALTAR 

I:  38  000 


Notes.  GIBRALTAR.  6.  Route.     53 

Banks.  Anglo-Egyptian,  Market  St.,  opposite  Police  Station  ;  Larios 
Hermanos,  Irish  Town;  Thos.  Cook  &  Son  (tourist-agents),  Waterport  St. 

—  Numerous  money-changers. 

United  States  Consul,  R.  L.  Sprague;  vice-consul,  A.  D.  Hayden. 

—  Lloyd's  Agents,  Smith,  Imossi,  &  Co.,  Irish  Town. 

Theatre.  Assembly  Rooms  (PI.  8),  in  the  Alameda,  with  open-air  cafe. 

Steamboat  Lines  (comp.  'Gibraltar  Chronicle').  Peninsular  & 
Oriental  (Smith,  Imossi,  &  Co.,  Irish  Town),  weekly  between  London, 
Marseilles,  and  Port  Said  (for  Australia  and  China;  comp.  RR.  17,  67); 
Orient  Royal  (Smith,  Imossi,  &  Co.),  fortnightly  between  London,  Mar- 
seilles, and  Port  Said  (for  Australia;  comp.  RR.  17,  67);  Cunard  (M.  H. 
Bland  &  Co.,  Cloister  Bdg.),  between  New  York  and  Trieste  (RR.  15a,  16); 
White  Star  (Th.  Morsley  &  Co.,  Irish  Town  11),  2  or  3  times  monthly  to 
Naples  (and  Genoa;  RR.  16,  15a),  or  via  Algiers  to  Genoa;  North  German 
Lloyd  (J.  Onetti  &  Sons,  Engineer  Lane),  fortnightly  to  Algiers,  Genoa, 
Naples,  and  Port  Said  (comp.  RR.  1,  15  b,  24,  67),  also  fortnightly  between 
New  York,  Algiers,  Naples,  and  Genoa  (comp.  RR.  16,  24);  the  Hamburg- 
American  (J.  Carrara  &  Sons,  Waterport  St.)  has  excursion-steamers  only; 
German  Levant  (J .  Rugeroni&Son,  Commercial  Sq.),  occasionally  to  Algiers; 
Hall  Line  (W.  J.  S.  Smith,  Bomb  House  Lane),  weekly  between  London, 
Lisbon,  Cadiz,  and  Malaga  (comp.  RR.  1,  6  b);  Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet 
(Bland  &  Co.,  see  above),  every  other  Wed.  for  Tangier,  Mogador,  Teneritfe, 
etc.  (RR.  14,  3,  4) ;  Transports  Maritimes  (Imossi  &  Son),  21st  of  each  month 
for  Madeira  and  S.  America ;  Oldenburg-Portuguese  (A.  Mateos  &  Sons, 
Pitman's  Alley)  twice  monthly  to  Tangier  and  Mogador  (R.  14) ;  Navigation 
Mixte  (A.  Mateos  &  Sons),  every  other  Wed.  night  to  Tangier,  Oran,  and 
Marseilles  (RR.  18,  19);  Vapores  C'orreos  de  Africa  (J.  Onetti  &  Sons;  at 
Algeciras,  A.  Gil  Pineda),  from  Algeciras  to  Tangier  and  Cadiz  (see  R.  6b). 

—  Local  steamers  to  Algeciras  and  Tangier,  comp.  R.  6. 

One  Day  (or  even  less  when  time  presses).  Walk  through  the  town  to 
the  Alameda  (p.  55);  visit  to  Europa  Point  (p.  55)  and  perhaps  Catalan 
Buy  also  (p.  56).  —  Foreigners  are  not  admitted  to  the  fortifications,  photo- 
graphing or  sketching  which  is  prohibited. 

Gibraltar,  a  town  of  23,450  inhab.  (incl.  the  garrison  of 
5100  men),  the  key  of  the  Mediterranean,  and  one  of  the  most 
important  coast-fortresses  in  the  world,  in  British  possession  since 
1704,  aud  headquarters  of  the  Atlantic  Fleet,  lies  on  the  W.  slope 
of  a  huge  rock, which  is  connected  with  the  Spanish  mainland  by 
a  sandy  isthmus  only.  The  famous  rock  bounds  the  Bay  of  Alge- 
ciras or  Gibraltar  on  the  E.  'It  is  the  very  image  of  an  enormous 
lion,  crouched  between  the  Atlantic  and  the  Mediterranean,  and  set 
there  to  guard  the  passage  for  its  British  mistress'  (Thackeray). 

The  rock  is  composed  of  Jurassic  limestone,  overlying  Silurian 
slate,  and  extending  from  N.  to  S. ;  it  is  3  M.  long  and  s/4  M.  in 
breadth,  with  a  saddle  separating  Mt. Roclcgun  (1356  ft.),  the  lower 
hill  on  the  N.,  from  the  Signal  Station,  the  Highest  Point  (1396  ft.), 
and  the  Sugar  Loaf  Hill  (O'  Hara's  Tower,  1361  ft.)  on  the  S. 
Its  grey  masses  ascend  gradually  in  terraces  on  the  W.  and  S.  sides, 
and  rise  almost  perpendicularly  on  the  E.  and  N.  sides. 

The  Town  op  Gibraltar  ('North  Town')  covers  a  third  of  the 
W.  slope  to  the  N.,  while  the  remaining  two-thirds  are  occupied 
by  the  Alameda,  numerous  pretty  villas,  the  barracks  of  the  South 
Town,  and  the  Lighthouse  on  Europa  Point.    The  houses  rise  in 


54     Routed.  GIBRALTAR.  History. 

terraces  to  a  height  of  260  ft.;  the  streets  are  narrow  and  dark, 
and  are  relieved  by  few  squares.  The  natives  are  chiefly  Spaniards 
and  descendants  of  many  different  Mediterranean  races.  The 
numerous  Moroccans,  mostly  dealers  from  Tangier,  indicate  the 
proximity  of  the  African  coast.  The  cleanness  of  the  town  and  the 
absence  of  beggars  produce  a  pleasant  impression.  The  Coal  Stores 
on  the  South  Mole  (along  with  those  of  Algiers  and  Malta)  supply 
the  vessels  bound  for  the  Suez  Canal  (about  1200  annually).  There 
is  little  other  trade  except  the  import  of  cattle  and  provisions  from 
(lalicia  and  Morocco. 

The  ancient  name  of  the  rock  was  Kalpe,  while  the  hills  on  the 
African  side  were  called  Abyla  (now  Sierra  Bullones;  p.  103).  Together 
they  were  known  as  the  '  Pillars  of  Hercules',  the  entrance  to  the  ocean. 
Under  the  protection  of  the  divine  Hercules-Melkarth ,  the  Phoenicians 
ventured  through  the  straits,  even  as  far  as  Britain,  whence  they  brought 
the  earliest  tidings  from  the  North  and  also  cargoes  of  tin,  which  they 
mixed  with  copper  to  produce  bronze.  Kalpe  was  also  the  name  of  the 
first  Phosnician  settlement  on  the  bay  of  Gibraltar,  while  C'arteia,  on 
the  inner  part  of  the  bay,  was  probably  of  ancient  Iberian  origin.  Carteia 
was  still  an  important  harbour  under  the  Carthaginians,  and  in  171  B.  C. 
it  became  the  first  Roman  colony  in  the  whole  peninsula.  Nothing  is 
recorded  of  the  period  which  succeeded  the  invasion  of  the  Vandals  (p.  322). 
At  length  in  711  the  bay  re-appears  in  history,  when  Mima,  the  governor 
appointed  by  the  Caliph  of  Damascus,  sent  the  Berber  Tdrik  ibn  Ziyad 
across  from  Ceuta  to  the  bay  of  Algeciras  on  an  expedition  against  Spain, 
in  which  he  defeated  the  Visigoths  at  Veger  de  la  Frontera,  near  Cape 
Trafalgar  (p.  58).  Impressed  by  the  commanding  position  of  the  rock  of 
Gibraltar,  Tdrik  afterwards  erected  a  fort  upon  it,  which  formed  the 
nucleus  of  the  Moorish  castle  (p.  55).  From  him  is  derived  the  name  of  Jebel 
Tdrik,  'mountain  of  Tarik',  corrupted  into  Gibraltar.  In  1309  Gibraltar 
was  captured  by  Ad.  Peres  de  Gttzmdn  (el  Bueno)  for  Ferdinand  IV.  of 
Castile;  the  Moors  recaptured  it  in  1333,  but  in  1462  lost  it  again  to  the 
Spaniards.  In  consequence  of  the  plundering  of  Gibraltar  by  Algerian 
pirates  under  Kheireddin  (p.  221),  Charles  V.  ordered  the  fortifications 
to  be  reconstructed  and  new  ramparts  to  be  built  from  the  S.  side  of  the 
town  to  the  crest  of  the  hill.  In  1610  the  Spanish  Admiral  Mendoza  caused 
the  last  Moriscoes  of  Andalusia  to  be  sent  back  to  Morocco  from  this  very 
port,  where  their  ancestors  had  so  long  held  sway,  and  whence  they  had 
gone  forth  to  conquer  the  whole  peninsula.  After  having  undergone  ten 
sieges  at  various  periods,  the  fortress  was  surprised  and  captured  by  the 
British  fleet  unter  Adm.  George  Rooke  and  Prince  George  of  Hesse- 
Darmstadt  in  1704,  during  the  Spanish  War  of  Succession,  and  was  stoutly 
and  successfully  defended  by  them  during  a  six  months'  bombardment 
by  the  Spaniards  and  the  French  (1704-5).  The  thirteenth  siege  (1727) 
and  the  'great  siege'  by  the  French  and  the  Spaniards  (1779-83)  were  also 
unsuccessful,  the  British  commander  then  being  Gen.  Eliott,  afterwards 
Lord  Heathfield.  By  the  Peace  of  Versailles,  in  1783,  Great  Britain  was 
confirmed  in  her  possession  of  the  historic  rock. 

The  older  Fortifications  on  the  coast,  from  Land  Port  on  the  N.  to 
Europa  Point  on  the  S.,  those  on  the  S.  slope  of  the  rock  above  Europa 
Point,  and  those  on  the  N.  side  (the  famous  underground  galleries,  p.  55) 
have  in  late  years  been  strengthened  by  the  construction  of  a  fort  mi  the 
summit  of  the  hill,  armed  with  guns  of  the  largest  calibre. 

From  the  Old  Mole,  dating  from  1309,  and  lately  prolonged 
by  the  North  Mole,  we  pass  through  the  Old  Mole  Gate  (the  outer 
gate  of  the  harbour),  and  then,  beyond  the  Market,  through  the 


Europa  Main  Road.  GIBRALTAR.  5.  Route.       55 

inner  Waterpwt  Gate,  which  stands  on  the  site  of  the  old  Moorish 
wharf.    This  brings  us  to  the  S.E.  to  Casemates  Square. 

Adjacent,  on  the  S.,  is  Waterport  Street,  with  the  chief 
buildings,  forming,  together  with  the  parallel  street  to  the  W. 
called  Irish  Town,  the  chief  business  quarter. 

Waterport  Street  is  prolonged  to  the  S.  by  Church  Street. 
Beyond  Commercial  Square  and  the  Exchange  (PI.  3)  we  come  to 
the  Catholic  Cathedral  (PI.  4),  on  the  left,  originally  a  mosque, 
but  restored  by  the  'Catholic  kings'  (p.  75)  after  1502;  there  now 
remains  little  worth  seeing  except  the  Moorish  orange-court.  — 
A  little  farther  on,  on  the  same  side  is  the  Supreme  Court  (PI.  7), 
with  its  pretty  garden.  To  the  right,  in  Cathedral  Square,  stands 
the  Anglican  Cathedral  (PI.  6),  built  in  the  Moorish  style. 

The  southmost  part  of  this  line  of  streets  is  Southport  Street, 
where,  on  the  right,  rises  the  Convent,  once  a  Franciscan  estab- 
lishment, now  the  Government  House  (governor,  Sir  Arch.  Hunter), 
the  garden  of  which  contains  a  venerable  dragon-tree  (p.  30).  At 
the  S.  end  of  this  street  is  Southport  Gate,  which  is  always  open, 
dating  from  the  time  of  Charles  V.,  but  restored  in  1883.  Outside 
I  lie  gate,  on  the  left,  is  the  small  Trafalgar  Cemetery,  where  the 
British  who  fell  at  the  battle  of  Trafalgar  (p.  58)  are  buried. 

The  Alameda,  beyond  the  gate,  a  fine  promenade  with  rich 
subtropical  vegetation,  was  laid  out  by  Governor  George  Don  in 
1814.  A  military  band  plays  near  the  Assembly  Rooms  (p.  53)  on 
Sun.  and  Wed.  from  3-5,  or  in  summer  in  the  evening.  To  the  W. 
we  overlook  the  Naval  Harbour,  with  its  dockyard,  quays,  and 
long  South  Mole. 

A  little  to  the  E.  of  the  Southport  Gate  is  Prince  Edward's 
Gate,  a  second  exit  to  the  S.  from  the  town,  whence  the  "Europa 
Main  Road  ascends  gently  along  the  W.  slope  of  the  rock,  above 
the  Alameda  Gardens,  between  gardens  and  villas.  Below  it,  on  the 
right,  farther  on,  are  the  Naval  Hospital  and  the  Buena  Vista 
Barracks.  Lastly,  a  little  way  short  of  a  signal-station,  we  descend 
between  the  fissured  rocks  of  the  Europa  Pass  to  (l1^  M.)  Europa 
Point,  with  its  great  Lighthouse,  the  much-eroded  S.  extremity  of 
the  peninsula.  The  road  then  turns  to  the  N.,  soon  affording  a  view 
of  the  Spanish  Mediterranean  coast,  to  the  Governor's  Cottage  and 
the  Monkeys'  Cave  hidden  among  the  rocks. 

The  Moorish  Castle,  above  the  artillery  barracks,  begun  by 
Tftrik  in  713  and  completed  in  742,  is  entered  through  the  Civil 
Prison  (verbal  permission  required  by  foreigners).  Access  to  the 
Subterranean  Galleries  of  the  fortress,  lying  below  the  castle  and 
dating  from  1782  (comp.  p.  54),  is  now  limited  to  British  subjects. 

From  the  Market  (p.  54)  we  may  walk  to  the  N.K.  to  the 
Land  Port  (notice  as  to  closing  should  be  observed;  comp.  p.  52), 
and  past  the  Inundation,  a  space  which  may  be  Hooded  for  defensive 


56     Route  6.  RONDA.  From  Gibraltar 

purposes  (made  in  1705),  to  the  North  Front,  which  forms  part 
of  the  low  neck  of  land  below  the  N.  slopes  of  the  rock.  Prom  this 
point  the  Devil's  Tower  Road  leads  to  the  S.E.,  past  the  Cemeteries, 
to  the  Devil's  Toiver  (10  min.  from  the  Land  Port),  probably  an  old 
Genoese  watch-tower.  The  road  then  turns  to  the  S.  to  Catalan 
Bay,  below  the  E.  flank  of  the  rock,  just  allowing  room  for  the 
little  fishing-village  of  Caleta.  The  rocks  contain  several  caves. 

Beyond  the  Neutral  Ground,  550  yds.  in  breadth,  we  come  to  the 
Spanish  town  of  Linea  de  la  Concepcidn  (29,600  inhab.),  IV4  M.  to  the 
N.  of  Gibraltar,  which  owes  its  origin  to  the  old  Spanish  lines  of  defence, 
long  since  demolished.    The  place  is  uninteresting. 


6.  Prom  Gibraltar  to  Seville. 

a.  Via,  Bobadilla  and  Utrera. 

Steamboat  from  Gibraltar  (Commercial  Pier)  to  Algeciras  Puerto  in 
'/2  hr.  (fare  l'/g  or  1  p. ;  passengers  with  through-tickets  have  their  luggage 
conveyed  gratis).  —  Railway  from  Algeciras  Puerto  to  Seville,  214  M.,  in 
IOV2  hrs.  (54  p.  20.  40  p.  20;  24  p.  85  c.) ;  carriages  are  changed  at  Bobadilla, 
La  Roda,  anu  Utrera.  Rail.  Restaurants  at  Ronda,  Bobadilla,  and  Utrera. 
There  are  through-expresses  from  Granada  to  Seville  (thrice  weekly,  in 
73/4  hrs.),  but  they  do  not  correspond  with  the  Algeciras  trains. 

Algeciras  (Hot.  Reina  Cristina,  first-class ;  Hot.  Anglo-Hispano ; 
Hot.  Marina;  Brit,  vice-cons.,  W.  J.  Smith;  pop.  13,300),  a  small 
town  on  the  W.  margin  of  the  bay  of  that  name,  is  a  winter  resort 
of  English  and  American  visitors.  The  famous  Morocco  Conference 
(comp.  p.  96)  of  1906  was  held  in  the  Casa  Consistorial  or  town- 
hall. — Local  steamer  to  Ceuta,  see  p.  102. 

The  train  for  Bobadilla,  soon  after  starting,  crosses  the  rivers 
Palmones  and  Guadarranque.  To  the  right  we  have  a  final  view 
of  the  Bay  of  Algeciras  and  the  African  coast.  Beyond  (83/4  M.) 
San  Roque  we  traverse  extensive  plantations  of  cork-trees  (p.  171). 
26  M.  Jimena;  36  M.  Gaucin,  in  the  Guadiaro  Valley,  the  station 
for  the  little  town  high  up  on  the  hills,  5y2  M.  to  the  E. — We  next 
pass  through  the  romantic  GuoAiaro  Ravine,  and  through  many 
tunnels  under  the  slopes  of  the  Sierra  de  Ronda,  and  skirt  the 
foot  of  the  barren  limestone  slopes  of  the  Sierra  de  Libar. 

6572  M.  Ronda  (2460  ft.;  Rail.  Restaur. ;  Hot.  Reina  Victoria, 
first-class,  pens,  from  17^2  01'  20  p.;  Hot.  Royal,  in  the  new  town, 
English,  pens,  from  12y2  p.,  good;  pop.  19,000),  one  of  the  most 
interesting  towns  in  Spain,  occupying  a  plateau  girdled  by  grand 
mountains.  Prom  the  station  we  follow  the  Carrera  de  Espinel  to  the 
W.  to  the  Calle  de  Castelar,  the  main  street  of  the  new  town,  and 
the  Plaza  de  Toros  (bull-ring).  From  the  railed-in  platforms  of 
the  Paseo  de  la  Merced,  a  park  a  little  to  the  N.W.  of  the  plaza, 
we  enjoy  a  fine  view,  with  the  foaming  Guadalevin,  or  Guadiaro, 
some  660  ft.  below  us.    The  Puente  Nuevo,  crossing  at  the  S.  end 


to  Seville.  BOBADILLA.  «•  Route.     57 

of  the  main  street  (p.  56)  from  the  new  town  to  the  old  town,  affords 
a  splendid  view  of  the  *Ravine  of  the  Guadalevin  (El  Tajo,  'the 
cutting'),  about  330  ft.  deep  and  filled  with  the  spray  of  the  river. 
The  bed  of  the  latter  is  strewn  with  rocks  and  the  abrupt  sides  of 
the  gorge  are  thickly  overgrown  with  cactus. 

The  train  descends  between  olives  and  cork-trees  into  the 
valley  of  the  Guadalete  (p.  59),  and  then  cuts  through  the  last 
N.  spurs  of  the  S.  Andalusiau  Mts. 

110  M.  Bobadilla  (1240  ft.;  Rail.  Restaur.)  is  the  junction 
for  Cordova  (see  R.  9),  Granada  (see  R,  9),  and  Malaga  (R.  11). 

"We  follow  the  Cordova  line  as  far  as  (124^2  M.)  La  Roda 
(comp.  p.  72;  change  can*.),  and  then  turn  to  the  W.  to  (147  M.) 
Osuna  and  (I6672  M.)  Marchena,  junction  of  the  Utrera  and  Cor- 
dova line  (p.  59).  We  next  cross  the  Ghiadaira  (p.  59)  and  pass 
(184  M.)  Empalme  de  Moron.  At  (194  M.)  Utrera  (Rail.  Restaur. ; 
change  carr.)  we  join  the  Cadiz  and  Seville  line  (R.  6b). 

The  train  now  runs  to  the  N.W.,  mostly  through  fertile  land 
(oranges,  pomegranates,  olives),  and  crosses  the  Guadaira. 

214  M.  Seville  (Estaci6n  San  Bernardo  or  de  Cadiz),  see  p.  59 


b.  Via  Tangier  arid  Cadiz. 

Pkom  (Gibraltar)  Algeciras  to  Cadiz.  Steamers  of  the  Vapores 
Correos  de  Africa  (agents  at  Gibraltar  and  Algeciras,  see  p.  53;  at  Tangier, 
p.  98;  at  Cadiz,  p.  58)  from  Algeciras  (steamboats  from  Gibraltar,  see  p.  56) 
every  morning  except  on  Mon.  &  Frid.  (from  Cadiz  daily  except  on  Sun. 
&  Thurs.)  to  (3  hrs.)  Tangier  and  (9  hrs.)  Cadiz  (fares  1st  cl.  30  p.,  2nd  cl. 
23  p.;  to  Tangier  only  15  or  12  p.).  From  Gibraltar  to  Tangier  there  ply 
on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Wed.  the  small  cargo-steamers  of  the  Bland  Line 
(about  2'/4  hrs.;  10  or  5  p.).  Steamers  of  the  Hall  Line  ply  weekly  and 
those  of  the  Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  and  the  Oldenburg-Portuguese  lines 
mentioned  at  p.  104,  as  well  as  of  the  Navigation  Mixte,  ply  occasionally 
to  Cadiz.  The  voyage  to  Cadiz  via  Tangier  is  picturesque  in  itself,  and 
it  affords  also  a  most  interesting  glimpse  of  Moorish-Mohammedan  life  at 
Tangier.  On  the  other  hand  the  steamboat  communication  is  uncertain 
in  stormy  weather,  and  to  many  travellers  the  voyage,  especially  in  the 
smaller  vessels,  is  very  trying. 

From  Cadiz  to  Seville,  95  M.,  railway  in  'i'U-!>lU  hrs.  (fares  19  p.  80, 
M  p.  50,  8  p.  70  e.).     Railway  Restaurant  at  Utrera  only. 

For  Algeciras  and  the  voyage  through  the  Straits,  see  pp.  5G,  5. 
As  far  as  Tarifa  the  steamers  usually  skirt  the  Andalusian  coast, 
and  then  strike  across  the  straits  to  the  semicircular  Bay  of 
Tangier,  which  is  bounded  on  the  E.  by  Cape  Malabata. 

Tangier,  see  p.  98. 

After  leaving  the  Bay  of  Tangier  we  sight  Cape  Spartel  (p.  102) 
on  the  coast  of  Morocco.  In  clear  weather  we  command  a  beautiful 
retrospect  of  the  mountainous  coast,  as  far  as  the  Sierra  Bullones 
(p.  103).  Opposite,  on  the  Spanish  coast,  where  the  hills  gradually 
recede,  at  the  NVW.  end  of  the  shallow  Bay  of  Barbate,  rises  Cape 


58     Route  6.  CADIZ. 

Trafalgar,  the  Promontorium  Junonis  of  the  Romans  and  Taraf 
al-Ghdr  ('cape  of  caverns')  of  the  Moors.  The  tall  lighthouse  on 
the  cape  is  visible  at  night  from  a  distance  of  22  M.  It  was  here, 
on  21st  Oct.  1805,  that  Nelson  won  the  brilliant  victory  over  the 
combined  French  and  Spanish  fleets  under  Villeneuve  and  Gravina 
that  cost  him  his  life  and  made  Britain  mistress  of  the  seas. 

Farther  along  the  sandy  coast,  are  the  little  town  of  Conil  and 
the  insignificant  Cape  Roche,  beyond  which  we  sight  San  Fer- 
nando (p.  59).  At  length,  rising  out  of  the  blue  sea,  appear  the 
lofty  quays  and  the  white  houses  of  Cadiz,  overtopped  by  the  cathe- 
dral, a  beautiful  sight  in  sunny  weather.  "We  steer  round  Fort 
San  Sebastian,  skirt  the  cliffs  of  Los  Cochinos  and  Las  Puercas, 
and  enter  the  broad  Bay  of  Cadiz. 

Cadiz.  —  Arrival.  Passengers  of  the  Vapores  Correos  de  Africa 
steamers  are  landed  in  tenders  gratis,  but  heavy  luggage  is  taken  ashore 
by  special  boats  according  to  tariff.  The  mandadero,  or  porter,  usually 
gets  '/o-l  p.  for  taking  luggage  to  the  Aduana  (custom-house)  or  to  the 
hotel. -^The  Railway  Station  (Estacidn)  lies  at  the  harbom. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  51).  Hot.  de  France,  Plaza  de  Loreto,  pens,  from 
12'/2P-;  Sot.  Continental,  Calle  del  Duque  de  Tetuan  23;  Hot.  deCadi::, 
Plaza  de  la  Constitucion,  pens,  from  10  p. 

Cafes.  Cerveceria  Inglesa,  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion,  corner  of  Calle 
del  Duque  de  Tetuan;  Cafe-  Imperial,  Calle  del  Duquc  de  Tetuan  6;  Cer- 
vecerla  Alemana,  Calle  Zorrilla  2. 

Post  Office  (C'orreo),  Calle  del  Sacramento  1.  —  Telegraph  Office, 
Alameda  de  Apodaca  20. 

Bankers.  Ant.  Sicre&  Co.  (Agents  of  Credit  Lyonnais),  Calle  Diego  de 
Cadiz  5;  Amaro  Dnarte&  Co.,  Plaza  de  Mina  18.  — Money  Changers.  Casa 
de  Cambio,  Calle  de  San  Francisco  8  and  16. 

Consuls.  British  Vice-Consul,  jR.  A.  Calvert,  Alameda  20. — U.  S.  Con- 
sular Agent,  J.  Sanderson,  Alameda  12.  —  Lloyd's  Agent,  H.  MacPhersov, 
San  Ginds  6. 

Steamboat  Lines.  Hall  Line,  weekly  from  London  to  Lisbon,  Cadiz, 
Gibraltar,  and  Malaga  (comp.  pp.  1,  89);  the  Compania  Trasatldntica 
(office  in  the  Calle  Isabel  la  Catolica)  has  a  Philippine  Line  (monthly 
from  Liverpool  to  Lisbon,  etc.;  comp.  p.  1),  a  Canary  Line,  and  several 
others;  Vapores  Correos  de  Africa  (agent,  Antonio  Millan),  comp.  p.  57; 
steamers  of  the  Austro  -  American  Line  (office,  Viuda  de  B.  Alcon)  ply 
between  Trieste,  Almeria,  Las  Palmas,  and  Buenos  Ayres;  Navegaci&n 
6  Industria  (Viuda  de  B.  Alcon),  for  the  Canaries. 

Cadiz,  Span.  Cadiz,  the  Gadir  of  the  Phoenicians  and  Gades 
of  the  Romans,  now  a  provincial  capital  of  64,100  inhab.,  and  a 
fortress,  is  most  picturesquely  situated  on  a  low  limestone  rock, 
which  was  once  an  island,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Bay  of  Cadiz. 

From  the  harbour  or  from  the  railway-station  we  cross  the  Plaza 
Isabel  Segunda  either  to  the  Calle  Alonso  el  Sabio  and  the  Cathe- 
dral (Catedral  Nueva),  or  to  the  Calle  del  Sacramento,  leading  to 
the  Torre  del  Vigia  or  de  Tavira,  102  ft.  high,  which  is  accessible 
only  by  special  permission  of  the  Capitania  del  Puerto  (Calle  de 
Aduana).  The  top  (151  steps;  fee  30-50  c.)  commands  an  excellent 
survey  of  the  town,  surrounded  almost  entirely  by  the  sea,  with  its 
flat-roofed  houses  and  their  wiradores  or  belvederes. 


y. 


SEVILLE. 


7.  Rotrte.      59 


ru»a;;:::: A 

ArliUn'ia  "»  c 

Ba„il     ilo    " 


rife       ;         '  r  ■* 


ilm.ii      £  *  I        7 


N 


5      ,,        ,'       ,'      i     S'  ""mtl"  Krffeta  V  4  ■    . 

■■■.-.'■-- 


'  "~f  SliMvadn  -  j,         5  hJSt       P-,|,,;„      ° 


3 


SEVILLE.  7.  Rovte.     59 

The  Calle  Sagasta,  the  second  side-street  off  the  Calle  del  Sacra- 
mento, leads  to  the  right  into  the  Calle  del  Duque  de  Tetuan,  the 
chief  artery  of  traffic,  which  ends  in  the  busy  Plaza  de  la  Constitu- 
ci6n  to  the  N.W.  A  little  to  the  N.E.,  in  the  pretty  Plaza  de  Mina, 
is  the  Academia  de  Bellas  Artes,  the  picture-gallery  of  which  con- 
tains several  admirable  works  by  Murillo,  Zurbaran,  and  other 
masters.    (Adm.  9-3,  in  summer  7-4;  Sun.  and  holidays  10-3.) 

On  the  N.  outskirts  of  the  town  are  the  beautiful  *Gardens  of 
the  Alameda  de  Apodaca  and  the  Parque  Genoves,  with  their  fine 
palms.  On  the  S.  side  of  the  town,  not  far  from  the  W.  end  of 
the  shadelcss  Paseo  del  Sur,  rises  the  former  Capuchin  convent- 
church  of  Santa  Catalina  (ring  on  the  left  in  the  adjacent  court; 
adm.  20  c),  containing  Murillo's  last  work,  the  *Betrothal  of 
St.  Catharine. 

The  Railway  to  Seville  runs  along  the  narrow  neck  of  land 
which  connects  Cadiz  with  the  mainland,  rounds  the  Bay  of  Cadiz, 
passing  between  salt-marshes,  where  salt  is  obtained  by  evapor- 
ation, and  then  strikes  across  the  delta  of  the  Guadalete.  The 
chief  stations  are  the  naval  harbour  of  San  Fernando,  the  sea- 
baths  of  Puerto  Peal,  and  the  Puerto  de  Santa  Maria  ('El  Puerto'). 
Turning  to  the  N.E.,  the  train  now  runs  through  a  hilly  country  to 
(30'/2  M.)  Jerez  (or  Xeres)  de  la  Frontera,  the  third-richest  town 
in  Spain,  with  52,500  inhab.,  far-famed  for  its  'sherry'. 

Our  next  run  is  through  moor,  alternating  with  fertile  tracts, 
to  (75  M.)  Utrera  (p.  57),  junction  for  La  Itoda  (and  Bobadilla, 
K.  6a),  and  also  for  the  direct  line  to  Cordova.  Lastly,  we  cross  the 
Gruadaira  to  (95  M.)  Seville  (Estacion  de  Cadiz,  see  below). 

7.  Seville. 

Railway  Stations.  1.  Estacid>i  Sun  Bernardo  or  de  Cadiz  (PI.  P, 
G,  1;  Rail.  Restaur.),  for  the  line  to  Utrera  (Cadiz,  Granada,  Malaga). — 
2.  Estacion  de  Cordoba  or  de  Madrid  (PI.  D,  5,  6;  Restaur.),  near  the 
Guadalquivir.     Hotel  carriages  and  cabs  at  both.     Tariff,  see  p.  60. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  51).  *Hot.  de  Madrid  (PI.  a ;  D,  E,  4),  Calle  de  Mendez 
Niiiies  2,  with  dependance  (PI.  b;D,  4),  in  the  Plaza  del  Pacifico,  pens, 
from  121/.,,  (in  spring  15)  p. ;  *Hot.  de  Inglaterra  (PI.  f ;  E,  4),  Plaza  Nu- 
eva  13,  newly  fitted  up,  pens,  from  12'/j  p.;  H6t.  de  Paris  (PI.  c;D,  4), 
Plaza  del  Pacifico,  with  two  dependances  (PI.  d),  similar  charges;  these 
three  claim  to  be  first-class.  —  Hot.  de  Roma  (PI.  e;  D,  4),  Plaza  del  Du- 
que de  la  Victoria  6,  pens,  from  9  p.;  Hot.  de  Oriente  (PI.  i ;  E,  4),  Plaza 
Nueva  8,  pens.  7-10  p. ;  PeksiOn  la  Peninsular  (PI.  g;  E,  4),  Plaza  Nueva 
20;  Cecil  Hotel  (PI.  h;  E,  4),  Calle  de  Mendez  Nunez  18  &  23;  Hot.  de 
1  v  1'aix  (PI.  k;  E,  1),  same  street,  No.  11;  Hot.  Simon  (PI.  n;  D,  4),  Calle 
O'Donneil  25,  pens.  7  p. ;  Hot.  Restaur.  AlhambRa,  Calle  Santa  Maria  do 
Gratia  (PL  D,  4). —  During  Holy  Week  (semana  santa)  and  the  Feria  (p.  60) 
charges  are  doubled  almost  everywhere,  and  rooms  should  be  secured  long 
beforehand. 

Caf6s.  Pasaje  de  Oriente  (see  below);  Cerveceria  Tnglesa  (Engl. 
beer)  and  Cafe  de  Paris,  both  in  the  Calle  de  la  Campana;  Perla  Chica, 
near  the  Ayuntamiento  (p.  65).  —  Restaurant.  *Pasaje  de  Oriente,  Callo 
de  las  Sierpea. 


60     Route  7. 


SEVILLE. 


Practical  Notes. 


1-2 

by  day 

>eia. 
at  night 

3-4 
by  day 

>ers. 
at  night 

1  p. 

2  n 

2  „ 

3  n 

2  p. 

3  » 

5    „ 

l'/2  P- 
2>/2   „ 

2  „ 

3  „ 

2i/2  p. 
4       „ 

4  „ 

5  „ 

The  Tramways  [Tranvias;  cars  stop  where  required ;  passengers  ring 
to  alight)  all  start  from  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  (PI.  E,  3).  For  a  gene- 
ral view  of  the  city  the  circular  lines  'Constitucion,  Roario,  Macarena'  (red 
cross)  and  'Constituci6n,  Puerta  Real,  Puerta  de  Jerez'  (green  cross)  are 
recommended.  The  'Linea  del  Parque'  runs  to  the  park  on  fine  after- 
noons only. 

Cabs. 


One-horse,  per  drive  .  . 

„  per  hour  .  . 

Two-horse,  per  drive  .  . 

„  per  hour  .  . 

The  night  hours  are  from  midnight  to  sunrise.  Small  articles  25  c. ; 
trunk  under  66  lbs.  (30  kilos)  50  c,  heavier  1  p.  —  During  the  Semana 
Santa  and  the  Feria  fares  are  about  double  (but  not  for  baggage),  and 
bargaining  is  advisable.  Driving  on  Holy  Thursday  and  Good  Friday 
is  prohibited. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (Correos  y  TeUgrafos;  PI.  D,  4),  Calle 
de  las  Sierpes.  Poste-restante  hours  are  from  8.15  to  9.45,  from  12.15 
to  2.15,  and  6-7  p.  m. 

Banks.  Credit  Lyonnais,  Calle  de  las  Sierpes  87;  Banco  Hispano- 
Americano,  same  street,  No.  91;  Banco  de  Cartagena,  Calle  Rioja  18. 

Consuls.  British,  A.  L.  Kcyser,  Chicaneros  10  (to  the  E.  of  the  Au- 
diencia,  PI.  E,  3);  vice-consul,  A.  Henderson.  —  United  States,  Ch.  S.  Vi- 
dians, Mercaderes  50  (PI.  E,  3);  vice-consul,  O.  Karminski. — Lloyd's 
Agent,  Jose"  Dunipe,  Marques  de  Santa  Ana  14. 

English  Church,  Plaza  del  Museo  (PI.  D,  5).    Services  in  winter. 

Theatres.  *Teatro  de  San  Fernando  (PI.  D,  E,  4),  Calle  de  Tetuan, 
for  operas  and  ballet;  Tcatro  de  Cervantes  (PI.  C,  4),  Calle  Amor  de  Dios, 
for  short  dramas,  etc.  —  Bull  Ring  (Plaza  de  Toros;  PI.  F,  4,  5).  Famous 
'corridas'  on  Easter  Sunday  and  during  the  Feria. 

Church  Festivals.  Most  curious  among  these  are  the  *Processions 
(pasos)  of  the  brotherhoods  during  Holy  Week,  which  attract  crowds  of 
spectators.  They  are  best  witnessed  from  the  stand  in  front  of  the  town- 
hall  (seat  for  the  4  days  10  p.).  — The  *Feria  (18-20th  April),  a  pic- 
turesque popular  festival,  founded  in  1847,  is  held  in  the  Prado  de  San 
Sebastian  (PI.  G,  1,  2),  where  wealthy  families  have  their  own  tents. 

Sights.  Most  of  the  churches  are  open  in  the  morning  only:  the 
Cathedral  (p.  63)  till  12  and  after  3.30.  In  the  Sacristia  de  los  Calices 
(p.  64)  a  ticket  (permiso)  for  this  sacristia,  for  the  Sacristia  Mayor,  the 
Sala  Capitular,  and  the  closed  chapels  is  obtained  for  2  p..  The  Capilla 
Real  is  open  in  the  forenoon  only  (fee  1/2-i  P-)-  The  services  of  the  im- 
portunate guides  to  the  Cathedral  and  the  Giralda  may  be  dispensed  with. 
During  Holy  Week,  when  the  churches  are  open  all  day,  the  inspection 
of  their  art-treasures  is  scarcely  possible.  Admission  to  collections  in 
private  houses  and  charitable  institutions  is  readily  granted  as  a  rule, 
but  seldom  without  difficulty  on  Sundays  and  holidays  and  during  Holy 
Week.     The  usual  days  and  hours  of  admission  are — 

*  Alcazar  (p.  61),  week-days  11-4;  tickets  (1  p.)  are  issued  at  the  of- 
fice at  the  back  of  the  Patio  de  las  Banderas  (door  No.  11). 

Casa  de  Pilatos  (p.  65),  daily  (50  c,  for  the  poor). 

*Giralda  (p.  62),  daily  (25  c);  no  one  allowed  to  ascend  alone. 

*Hospital  de  la  Caridad  (p.  67),  daily  (fee  V2-IPO;  clear  weather 
indispensable;  afternoon  light  best. 

*M/<seo  Provincial  (p.  66),  daily  10-3  (in  summer  10-4).  On  Sun.  the 
Archaeological  Museum  is  open  till  1  only. 

Two  Days  (when  time  is  limited).  1st.  Forenoon,  Plaza  de  la  Consti- 
tucidn  (p.  65),  Cathedral  (p.  63),  Alcazar  (p.  61);  afternoon,   Calle  de  las 


History.  SEVILLE.  7-  Route.      61 

Sierpes  (p.  65),  Casa  de  Pilatos  (p.  65);  towards  evening,  ascent  of  the 
Giralda  (p.  62).  —  2nd.  Forenoon,  Museum  (p.  66):  afternoon,  Caridad 
(p.  67),  Faseo  de  las  Delicias  (p.  67),  and  Parque  Maria  Luisa  (p.  68). 

Seville,  Span.  Sevilla  (33  ft.),  a  city  of  145,300  inhab.,  the 
capital  of  Andalusia  and  of  the  province  of  Sevilla,  the  seat  of  an 
Archbishop  and  of  a  University,  lies  in  a  broad  plain  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  tawny  Guadalquivir,  opposite  the  suburb  of  Triana. 
At  flood-tide  sea-going  vessels  of  23  ft.  draught  can  ascend  the  river 
to  the  quays  of  Seville,  which,  though  54'/2  M.  from  the  sea,  can 
thus  claim  to  be  a  seaport.  The  harbour  is  annually  entered  by  about 
1000  vessels,  of  ll/4  millions  aggregate  tonnage.  The  city  combines 
the  features  of  a  seaport  with  gay  scenes  of  popular  life  and  a 
wealth  of  treasures  of  art.  The  houses  in  the  narrow  winding 
streets,  the  heritage  of  the  Moorish  period,  often  contain  charming 
inner  courts,  called  patios,  where  the  inhabitants  spend  most  of 
their  time  in  summer.  The  larger  plazas  or  squares  are  mostly 
planted  with  oranges  or  palm-trees. 

Seville,  as  its  ancient  name  Hispalis  indicates,  was  originally  an 
Iberian  settlement.  Ever  since  the  2nd  cent.  B.  C.  its  navigable  river  has 
made  Seville  a  place  of  importance.  In  411  it  became  the  capital  of  the 
Vandals  (p.  322),  and  in  441  the  seat  of  the  Visigoth  kings,  wno  however 
migrated  in  667  to  the  more  central  Toledo.  During  the  Moorish  period 
Seville,  alternately  with  Marakesh,  was  a  favourite  residence  of  the 
Almoravides  and  Almohades  (p.  95);  and  particularly  under  Yusuf  Abu 
Yakub  (1163-84)  and  under  Yakub  ibn  Yusuf  (1184-98),  surnamed  Al- 
Nansiir  ('the  victorious'),  it  wa6  embellished  with  many  sumptuous  build- 
ings, and  for  a  time  it  even  surpassed  Cordova  in  population.  The 
Christian  period  begins  with  Frederick  III.  ('the  saint')  of  Castile,  who 
captured  the  city  in  1248  and  made  it  his  residence.  Among  his  de- 
scendants was  Pedro  I.  (1350-69),  surnamed  'the  Cruel',  of  whom  many 
anecdotes  are  still  current.  Since  the  discovery  of  America  Seville  has 
prospered  greatly  and  vies  with  Cadiz  as  one  of  the  chief  ports  of  Spain. 

At  Seville  were  born  Spain's  two  greatest  painters,  Velazquez  (1599- 
1660;  court-painter  at  Madrid  from  1623  onwards)  and  Murillo  (1617-82). 
Here  too  is  laid  the  scene  of  several  famous  operas:  Mozart's  Don  Juan 
and  Figaro,  Rossini's  Barber  of  Seville,  and  Bizet's  Carmen. 

See  'Seville',  by  W.  M.  QcMichan,  in  the  'Medieval  Towns  Series' 
(London,  1903);  and  'Seville',  by  A.  J.  Calvert  (London,  1907). 

a.  The  Plaza  del  Triunfo  with  the  Alcazar  and  the 
Cathedral. 

We  begin  our  walk  at  the  Plaza  del  Triunfo  (PI.  F,  3),  which 
is  bounded  by  three  imposing  edifices,  the  Lonja  on  the  W.  side, 
the  Alcazar  on  the  S.,  and  the  Cathedral  on  the  N. 

The  Casa  Lonja  (PI.  F,  3),  the  Exchange,  built  in  the  high- 
Renaissance  style  in  1583-98,  contains  on  the  upper  floor  the 
Archivo  General  de  Indias,  with  the  Spanish  charters  and  deeds 
relating  to  the  discovery  and  government  of  America  and  the  Phil- 
ippines.   Fine  view  from  the  roof,  especially  of  the  Cathedral. 

The  *  Alcazar  (PI.  F,  3;  adm.,  see  p.  60),  originally  a.  castle  of 
the  Almohade  Yusuf  Abu  Yakub  (1181 ;  see  above),  dates  in  its 


62     Route  7.  SEVILLE.  AlcAzar. 

present  form  mainly  from  the  time  of  kings  Pedro  I.  (p.  61)  and 
Henry  II.  (1369-79),  who  caused  the  castle  to  be  restored  by 
Moorish  architects  in  the  Mudejar  style  (p.  51).  Later  alterations 
date  from  the  reigns  of  Charles  V.  (1526),  Philip  II.  (1569),  and 
Philip  IV.  (1624),  while  modern  restorations  (1857-89)  have  ma- 
terially changed  the  character  of  the  interior. 

The  Exterior  with  its  pinnacled  corner-towers,  still  has  the  char- 
acter of  a  mediseval  castle.  From  the  entrauce  in  the  S.E.  angle  of 
the  Plaza  del  Triunfo  we  first  cross  the  large  Patio  de  las  Bauderas,  in 
which  are  the  ticket-office  and  a  vaulted  gateway  ('apeadero').  Thence 
we  may  proceed  straight  to  the  garden  (see  below),  or  to  the  right  to 
the  Patio  de  la  Monteria,  the  inner  court,  planted  with  oranges  and 
palms.  Very  striking  is  the  splendid  *Chikf  Facade  of  the  inner  Alcazar. 
The  beautiful  windows  and  side-entrances  are  framed  with  toothed  arches; 
above  them  runs  a  rich  stalactite  frieze  crowned  with  a  far-projecting 
timber  roof  resting  on  quaint  corbels.  Arabic  inscriptions  in  Cufic  char- 
acters (p.  150)  serve  for  decoration. 

The  Apartments  in  the  interior  are  grouped  round  the  Patio  de  las 
Doncellas  ('court  of  the  maidens'),  erected  in  1369-79,  but  almost  entirely 
rebuilt  under  Charles  V.  and  Philip  II.  The  lower  story  is  preceded  by 
superb  Moorish  arcades  resting  on  coupled  Renaissance  columns.  The 
upper  walls  in  open-work  are  richly  embellished  with  stucco.  The  chief 
rooms  on  the  groundfloor  are,  on  the  S.E.,  the  Sal6n  de  Carlos  Quinto 
with  its  fine  'azulejos'  (or  tiles)  and  timber  ceiling;  on  the  S.W.,  the 
quadrangular  domed  *Salon  de  Embajadores,  also  richly  decorated  with 
azulejos,  and  the  Patio  de  las  MunecaB  (dolls'  court),  modern  in  its  upper 
parts,  so  called  from  the  figures  which  adorn  it. 

From  the  Apeadero  (see  above)  we  may  lastly  visit  the  Garden  of 
the  Alcazar,  with  its  luxuriant  vegetation,  a  pavilion  of  the  time  of 
Charles  V.,  a  grotto,  and  fountains. 

Eeturniug  to  the  Plaza  del  Triunfo,  we  face  the  Cathedral,  with 
the  Capilla  Keal  (p.  64),  projecting  on  the  E.,  and  the  clock-tower 
at  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  church,  the  famous  — 

**Giralda  (PI.  E,  3),  the  conspicuous  landmark  of  the  city! 
It  was  originally  the  minaret  of  the  principal  Moorish  mosque, 
built  in  brick  by  the  architect  Jdbir  for  Yakiib  ibn  Ynsuf  (p.  61) 
in  1184-96.  The  tower  tapers  slightly  towards  the  top  and  is 
remarkable  for  its  harmonious  proportions.  It  is  square  in  form, 
each  side  being  45  ft.  long,  and  its  walls  are  7  ft.  thick.  The 
upper  wall-surfaces  adjoining  the  windows,  at  a  height  of  about 
80  ft.  above  the  ground,  are  diapered  with  a  net-work  of  Ara- 
besque-like sunken  panels,  and  are  further  enlivened  with  niches 
Instead  of  being  crowned  with  a  pinnacled  platform  (see  altar- 
piece,  p.  64),  the  tower  now  has  a  belfry  (1568),  capped  by  a  small 
dome  (305  ft.),  on  which  stands  the  Girardillo,  or  vane,  a  bronze 
female  figure  representing  Faith. 

The  *Ascent  (p.  60)  is  most  enjoyable  towards  evening.  Entrance  by 
the  door  in  the  S.E.  angle.  An  easy  inclined  plane,  in  35  sections,  and 
ending  in  16  steps,  ascends  to  the  first  gallery,  where  the  bells  are  hung, 
and  where  we  enjoy  a  very  extensive  view. 

In  the  Calle  de  Alemanes,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Cathedral,  is 
the  main'  entrance  to  the  *Patio  de  los  Naranjos  (PI.  F,  3 ; 


Cathedral.  SEVILLE.  7.  Route.     63 

'orange-court'),  once  the  court  of  the  mosque.  The  handsome  eu- 
trancc-gateway,  called  Puerta  del  Perdon,  dates  from  the  Moorish 
period.  The  bronze-mounted  *Doors  and  the  knockers,  in  theMudejar 
style,  and  the  sculptures  (1519)  are  additions  of  the  Christian 
period.  The  old  artesonado  or  coffered  ceiling  was  replaced  in 
1833  by  a  tower. 

In  this  picturesque  court,  where  the  faithful  used  to  perform 
their  ablutions  at  a  fountain  (al-mida)  before  entering  the  sacred 
precincts,  we  stand  opposite  the  Cathedral;  on  the  right  is  the 
Sagrario  (p.  05);  on  the  left  is  the  Biblioteca  Colombina,  or 
cathedral  library,  founded  in  1539  by  Eernando  Colon,  Columbus's 
son,  above  which  towers  the  Giralda. 

From  the  orange-court  the  cathedral  may  be  entered  by  the 
Puerta  de  los  Naranjos  or  (on  the  left)  by  the  Puerta  del  Lagarto. 
It  is  preferable,  however,  to  enter  on  the  "W.  side,  from  the  Calle 
del  Gran  Capitan. 

The  **Cathedral  (PI.  F,  3 ;  adm.,  see  p.  60),  one  of  the  grand- 
est and  most  sumptuous  Gothic  churches  in  the  whole  of  Christen- 
dom, occupies  the  site  of  the  principal  Moorish  mosque,  which 
was  erected  by  Yxisuf  Abu  Yakub  in  1171.  It  was  begun  by  un- 
known architects  in  1402,  and  in  its  chief  parts  was  completed  in 
1500.  The  dome  having  collapsed  in  1511,  it  was  rebuilt  from 
designs  by  Juan  Gil  de  Ontahon  in  1517,  and  having  in  1888 
again  fallen  in  it  was  restored  by  Casanova. 

The  W.  Faqade,  which  was  not  completed  till  1827,  as  well 
as  the  E.  facade,  is  remarkable  for  the  wealth  of  sculpture  on  its 
portals.  On  the  two  lateral  gateways  in  particular,  the  Puerta  del 
Bautismo  (left)  and  the  Puerta  del  Nacimiento  (right),  we  note  tho 
beautiful  terracotta  figures  by  Pedro  Milldn  (about  1500),  of  semi- 
northern  character. 

The  ^'Interior  has  a  nave  with  double  aisles,  two  rows  of  side- 
chapels,  a  transept  which  does  not  project  beyond  the  main  walls, 
a  choir  in  the  centre,  and  a  Capilla  Mayor  containing  the  high- 
altar.  Exclusive  of  the  Capilla  Real,  the  church  is  383  ft.  long  and 
249  It.  in  width.  The  nave  is  53  ft.  wide  and  132  ft.  high,  the 
aisles  are  each  30  ft.  wide  and  85  ft.  in  height.  The  marble  pave- 
ment is  of  the  18th  cent.,  the  fine  stained  glass  of  the  10th-19th 
centuries.  The  screen  (reja)  and  the  Gothic  stalls  (silleria)  of  the 
choir  were  almost  entirely  destroyed  by  the  last  collapse  of  the 
dome.  The  huge  high-altar  (retablo)  in  the  Capilla  Mayor  is  a 
masterpiece  of  Gothic  wood-carving  (1482-1504). 

The  Side  Chapels  and  the  Sacristies  form  a  veritable  museum 
of  sculpture  and  painting,  but  are  very  badly  lighted. 

Adjoining  the  Puerta  Mayor,  the  chief  portal  of  the  W.  facade, 
are  the  Altar  del  Santo  Angel,  with  a  picture  by  Mnrillo  (the 
, Angel  de  la  Guarda'  or  guardian  angel),  and  the  small  Altar  del 


64     Route  7.  SEVILLE.  Cathedral. 

Nacimiento,  contairicg  admirable  pictures  by  Luis  de  Vargas 
(1502-68;  'Adoration  of  the  Child'  and  the  'Four  Evangelists'). 

The  fourth  chapel  in  the  S.  aisle,  the  Capilla  de  Hermenegildo, 
contains  the  fine  Gothic  monument  of  Archbp.  Juan  de  Cervantes 
(d.  1453),  by  Lorenzo  Mercadante  de  Bretana. —  In  the  S.  tran- 
sept rises  the  very  curious  sarcophagus  of  Columbus,  placed  in  the 
cathedral  of  Havana  in  1892  and  brought  to  Spain  in  1899.  To  the 
right  stands  the  Altar  de  la  Gamba,  with  the  famous  painting  by 
Luis  de  Vargas,  the  so-called  Generaci6n,  or  Adoration  of  the 
Immaculate  Conception  by  Adam  and  Eve,  generally  known  as  'La 
Gamba',  from  the  finely  drawn  and  painted  leg  of  Adam. 

Through  the  Capilla  de  los  Dolores  we  pass  into  the  SacristIa 
de  los  Calices,  built  in  the  late-Gothic  style  by  Diego  de  Riano 
(d.  1533)  and  Martin  Gainza  (d.  1566),  where  we  obtain  tickets 
of  admission  to  the  closed  chapels,  etc.  (see  p.  60).  In  front  of 
us  is  a  famous  *Crucifix,  by  Martinez  MontaMs  (d.  1649),  the  most 
typical  of  Andalusian  sculptors;  on  the  left  are  a  SS.  Justa  and 
Rufina,  by  Goya  (1817),  and  St.  Dorothea  by  Murillo.  On  the 
window-wall  is  St.  John  the  Evangelist,  by  Zurbardn. 

Adjacent  to  the  Antesala  is  the  *Sacristia  Mayor,  a  magni- 
ficent room  in  the  plateresque  style,  also  built,  after  1532,  by 
JRiailo  and  Gainza,  containing  the  rich  treasury  of  the  cathedral 
and  three  valuable  pictures,  a  Depcent  from  the  Cross,  by  Pedro 
Campaha  (1548),  and  SS.  Leander  and  Isidore  by  Murillo. 

The  Capilla  del  Mariscal  possesses  an  altar-piece  in  ten  sections, 
the  Presentation  in  the  Temple,  by  Pedro  Campaila. 

The  elliptical  *Sala  Capitular,  begun  by  Riano  and  Gainza 
in  1530  but  not  finished  till  after  1582,  has  a  Doric  entablature 
resting  on  Ionic  mural  columns,  while  the  decoration  is  plateresque 
(Span.  Renaissance).  The  eight  ovals  between  the  windows  and  the 
fine  picture  of  the  Immaculate  Conception  are  by  Murillo. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  church  we  pass  through  a  high  railing 
(1773)  into  the  Capilla  Real  (adm.,  see  p.  60),  a  Renaissance  edi- 
fice by  Gainza  and  others  (1551-75),  on  the  site  of  the  old  royal 
vaults.  By  the  entrance,  right  and  left,  are  the  tombs  of  Alfonso 
the  Wise  (d.  1284)  and  his  mother  Queen  Beatrice  of  Swabia.  In 
the  apse  is  preserved  the  reliquary  of  St.  Ferdinand  (Ferdinand  III. 
of  Castile;  p.  69),  who,  as  well  as  Pedro  I.,  is  interred  in  the  'Pan- 
te6n'  under  the  chapel. 

In  the  N.  aisle,  beyond  the  Puerta  del  Lagarto  (p.  63)  is  the 
Capilla  de  los  Evangelistas,  whose  altar-piece  is  by  Ferd.  Sturm 
(1559) ;  on  the  predella,  to  the  left,  below,  are  SS.  Justa  and  Rufina 
with  the  Giralda  in  its  original  form  (p.  62).  In  the  Capilla  de 
Santiago  (St.  James)  is  a  *Picture  of  that  saint,  by  Juan  de  las 
Roelas  (1609).    Most  famous  of  all  is  a  **Murillo  in  the  Capilla 


Ai/untamiento.  SEVILLE.  7.  Route.      65 

del  Bautisterio  (forenoon  light  best),  the  Infant  Christ  appearing 
to  St.  Antony  of  Padua  (1656). 

The  Puerta  del  Sagrario,  the  last  door  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
cathedral,  leads  into  the  Sagrario,  built  as  a  parish-church  in  the 
baroque  style  in  1618-62,  with  a  single  vault  75  ft.  high.  The 
altar-piece  on  the  left  is  a  fine  half-figure  of  the  Mater  Dolorosa 
by  Montanes. 


b.  The  Central  and  Eastern  Quarters. 

The  lively  Calle  Genova  or  Canovas  del  Castillo  leads  from  the 
Cathedral  to  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  (PI.  E,  3),  the  focus 
of  the  city  traffic.  On  the  right  is  the  Audiencia,  containing  the 
law-courts;  on  the  left,  between  this  plaza  and  the  large  Plaza 
Nueva  or  de  San  Fernando  (PI.  E,  4),  rises  the  — 

*Casa  del  Ayuntamiento  (PI.  E,  4),  or  town-hall,  a  Re- 
naissance edifice  (1526-64)  designed  by  Diego  de  Riano  (p.  64). 
The  richly  decorated  S.  part  is  one  of  the  most  charming  creations 
of  the  plateresque  style. 

At  the  Audiencia  begins  the  *Calle  de  las  Sierpes  (PI.  E. 
D,  3),  or  'street  of  serpents',  so  named  after  the  sign-boai-d  of  an 
old  inn.  It  contains  the  chief  cafes  and  clubs  and  the  largest  shops, 
and  it  presents  a  very  lively  scene  in  the  evening. 

This  street  forms  the  best  starting-point  for  a  walk  through 
I  lie  E.  quarters  of  the  town.  The  first  lateral  street  on  the  right, 
the  Calle  Sagasta,  leads  to  the  church  of  San  Salvador  (PI.  D, 
K.  3),  which  contains  a  statue  of  Christ  by  Montanes  (2nd  altar 
on  the  right).  From  the  S.E.  angle  of  that  church  the  Cuesta  del 
Rosafio  leads  to  — 

San  Isidoro  (PI.  E,  3),  where  at  the  high-altar  a  celebrated 
masterpiece  by  Roelas,  the  Death  of  St.  Isidore  (El  Transito),  was 
once  closely  studied  by  Murillo. — From  San  Isidoro  the  Calle 
Almiraute  Hoyos  and  Calle  de  Aguilas,  which  contain  several  fine 
patios,  lead  to  the  Plaza  de  Pilatos. 

The  -Casa  de  Pilatos  (PI.  E,  2;  adm.,  see  p.  60),  the  pro- 
perty of  the  Duque  de  Medinaceli,  was  probably  begun  early  in 
the  16th  cent,  by  Christian-Moorish  architects  for  the  Ribera 
family.  As  a  member  of  that  family  had  been  to  Jerusalem,  the 
building  was  popularly  supposed  to  be  a  copy  of  Pilate's  house. 
The  architecture  shows  a  curious  but  harmonious  blend  of  Moorish, 
Gothic,  and  Renaissance  elements. 

The  beautiful  Patio,  with  its  colonnade  and  fountain,  contains  several 
antiques;  in  the  angles  are  two  excellent  replicas  of  a  statue  of  Athena, 
of  the  time  of  Phidias. — Adjoining  the  court,  on  the  right,  is  the  so- 
called  Prictorium  of  Pilate,  and  straight  in  front  are  the  Vestibule,  with  its 
superb  azuiejos,  and  the  Chapel,  with  its  charming  Gothic-Moorish  decor- 
ation.   To  the  left  of  the  vestibule  is  a  room  with  azuiejos  and  a  rich 

Baedekek's  Mediterranean.  5 


66     Route  7.  SEVILLE.  Museo. 

artesonado  ceiling.  —  A  magnificent   staircase,  roofed  by  a  much  admired 
dome,  ascends  to  the  upper  floor,  which  is  not  accessible. 

From  the  Plaza  de  Pilatos  we  follow  the  Calle  de  Caballerizas 
and  Calle  Descalzos  to  the  N.W.  to  the  pretty  Plaza.de  Arguelles  (PI. 
J),  2,  3).  Here  rises  San  Pedro,  a  Gothic  church  of  the  14th  cent., 
containing  a  fine  timber  ceiling  and  pictures  by  Pedro  Campafta 
and  Roelas  (sacristan,  Calle  Dona  Maria  Coronel  1). 

Following  the  Calle  de  la  Imagen,  and  crossing  the  Mercado 
(PI.  1),  3),  we  reach  the  Calle  Larafla. 

The  University  (PI.  D,  3)  now  occupies  an  old  Jesuit  convent. 
The  University  Church  (entered  from  the  quadrangle;  fee  1/2-'i.  p.), 
built  in  1565-79  by  Bartolome  Bustamante  (?)  for  the  Jesuits,  in 
the  Renaissance  style,  contains  fine  Renaissance  monuments  and 
several  sculptures  and  paintings  by  Montanes,  Alonso  Cano,  Roelas, 
and  others. 

The  churches  in  the  N.E.  Quarter,  such  as  Omnium  Sanctorum 
(PI.  B,  S),  San  Marcos  (PI.  C,  2),  and  Santa  Marina  (PI.  B,  2)  still  possess 
towers  in  the  Moorish  stylo,  which  were  once  the  minarets  of  uiosques. — 
The  so-called  Cam  del  Duque  de  Alba  (PI.  C,  2),  Calle  de  las  Duenas  5, 
a  palace  built  for  the  Riberas  (p.  65)  in  the  Mudejar  style  after  1483, 
contains  a  court  planted  with  palms  and  a  staircase  richly  adorned  with 
azulejos,  but  the  house  itself  is  not  shown. 

In  the  Calle  de  Santa  Paula,  a  little  to  the  E.  of  San  Marcos,  is  the 
Conveido  de  Santa  Paula  (PL  C,  1,  2),  a  nunnery  founded  in  1476.  The 
forecourt  has  a  superb  Gothic  portal,  with  terracotta  ornamentation  by 
Franc.  Nicoluso  of  Pisa  and  reliefs  of  saints  by  Pedro  Millan  (p.  63}. 
The  rich  mural  azulejos  (16th  cent.)  in  the  church  are  well  worth  seeing. 

In  the  Ronda  de  Capuchinos  (PI.  A,  1,  2)  there  are  considerable  re- 
mains of  the  ancient  Oily  Wall,  with  its  external  towers  and  low  parapet 
('barbacana',  after  Byzantine  models). 


o.  The  Western  and  South-Western  Quarters. 

Starting  from  the  small  Plaza  del  PacIfico  (PI.  D,4),  planted 
with  orange-trees,  we  follow'  the  Calle  de  San  Pablo  to  the  S.W. 
as  far  as  the  church  of  Santa  Magdalena  (PI.  D,  4)  and  then  turn 
to  the  right  into  the  Calle  de  Bailen.  From  this  in  turn  we  again 
diverge  to  the  right  and  follow  the  Calle  de  Miguel  de  Carvajal  to 
the  Plaza  del  Museo  (PI.  D,  5 ;  officially,  Plaza  de  la  Condesa  de 
Casa  Galindo),  in  which  rises  a  Bronze  Statue  of  Murillo. 

The  *Museo  Provincial  (PI.  D,  5;  adm.,  see  p.  60),  oc- 
cupying an  old  monastery  of  Mercenarii  (Convento  de  la  Merced), 
contains  the  small  Museo  Arqueologico  and  the  Museo  de  Pinturas, 
a  famous  picture-gallery.  The  gallery  contains  several  valuable 
sculptures,  but  its  chief  treasure  consists  in  23  Murillos,  mostly 
from  the  old  Capuchin  monastery  (PI.  A,  B,  1),  depicting  the  legend 
of  St.  Francis  of  Assisi  and  the  foundation  of  the  Franciscan  order. 

A  small  court  leads  to  the  N.  Cloisters,  where  the  antiques  (Roman, 
Visigothic,  Moorish),  along  with  some  modern  works,  are  exhibited.  From 
the  nearer  aisle  of  the  cloisters  an  azulejos-portal  leads  straight  into  the  — 


Hosp.de  la  Caridad.  SEVILLE.  7.  Route.     67 

Great  Hall  of  the  picture-gallery,  once  the  convent-church.  The 
**MuriUo8  are  all  hung  on  the  -walls  of  the  nave.  On  the  S.  wall,  by 
the  entrance,  note  specially  the  Concepci6n,  the  Annunciation,  SS.  Leander 
and  Bonaventura,  and  the  'Virgen  de  la  Servilleta',  said  to  have  been 
painted  on  a  table-napkin.  On  the  N.  wall  we  note  St.  Felix  of  Can- 
talicio  with  the  Infant  Jesus,  the  *Almsgiving  of  St.  Thomas  of  Villanueva, 
the  great  Conception,  the  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds,  and  Christ  on  the 
Cross  embracing  St.  Francis. 

On  the  end-wall  of  the  church  is  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Andrew  by 
Roelas.  The  transept  and  choir  are  hung  with  numerous  pictures  by 
Zurbaran  (notably  the  Triumph  of  St.  Thomas  Aquinas,  in  the  choir). 
Here,  too,  are  several  *Sculptures :  Pietro  Torrigiani,  Virgin  and  Child, 
with  the  penitent  St.  Jerome  (in  terracotta);  MontaMs,  wooden  figures 
of  the  Virgin  and  Child,  John  the  Baptist,  and  St.  Dominicus. 

A  room  on  the  Upper  Floor  contains  modern  pictures. 

The  Calle  de  los  Reyes  Catolicos,  in  line  with  the  Calle  de  San 
Pablo  (p.  66),  ends  at  the  Fuenle  de  Isabel  Segunda  (PL  F,  6),  the 
chief  bridge  crossing  to  the  suburb  of  Triana. 

A  little  short  of  the  bridge  we  turn  to  the  left  and  follow  the 
Paseo  de  Cristobal  Colon  (PI.  E,  F,  5,  4),  skirting  the  left  bank 
of  the  Guadalquivir  and  the  quays.  On  the  left  lie  the  Bull  Ring 
(PI.  F,  4,  5);  then  the  pretty  Plaza  de  Atarazanas  (PI.  F,  4; 
Arabic  Dar  as-San'a,  'arsenal',  'place  of  work'),  on  the  site  of  the 
old  Moorish  wharf,  where  the  great  Artillery  Arsenal  (Maestranza), 
the  Hospital  de  la  Caridad,  and  the  Custom  House  (Aduana),  are 
now  situated. 

The  Hospital  de  la  Caridad  (PI.  F,  4;  adm.,  see  p.  60), 
erected  for  the  'brotherhood  of  charity'  (Hermandad  de  la  Caridad) 
in  1661-4,  possesses,  in  its  baroque  church,  six  far-famed  **Mu- 
rillos  (1660-74).  Two  of  these  in  particular  are  the  delight  and 
admiration  of  every  beholder:  Moses  striking  the  Rock  (Cuadro  de 
las  Aguas,  or  La  Sed,  'the  thirst')  and  the  Feeding  of  the  Five 
Thousand  (Pan  y  Peces,  'bread  and  fishes').  Besides  these  pictures 
there  are,  on  the  left,  the  Infant  Christ,  the  Annunciation,  and  San 
Juan  de  Dios  carrying  sick  persons  into  the  hospital;  on  the  right, 
the  young  John  the  Baptist.  By  tho  high-choir  are  two  singular  but 
repulsive  pictures  by  Juan  Valdes  Leal  (1630-91),  the  Raising  of 
the  Cross  and  the  Triumph  of  Death. 

Near  the  S.  angle  of  the  Plaza,  close  to  the  river,  rises  the 
Torre  del  Oro  (PI.  G,  4),  once  a  fortified  tower  of  the  Moorish 
Alcazar  (p.  61),  and  ever  since  called  the  'tower  of  gold'  on  ac- 
count of  its  brilliant  azulejos.  The  upper  part  of  the  tower  dates 
from  the  Christian  period  only;  the  window  openings  and  the  bal- 
conies were  constructed  in  1760. 

Near  the  Torre  del  Oro  begin  the  *Public  Gardens  of  Seville, 
which,  particularly  in  spring,  when  roses,  camellias,  and  orange- 
blossom  are  in  their  glory,  afford  a  delightful  promenade.  The 
favourite  part  is  the  Pasco  de  las  Delicias  (PI.  H,  3),  beginning 
at  the  Palacio  de  Santelmo  (PI.  G,  3 ;  now  a  priests'  seminary), 

6* 


68     Route  a.  CORDOVA. 

where  the  people  of  fashion  drive  on  fine  afternoons.  On  the  way 
hack  we  may  walk  through  the  Parque.  Maria  Luisa  (PI.  H,  2), 
once  part  of  the  Santelmo  gardens,  and  regain  the  town  by  the 
Calle  San  Fernando,  passing  the  great  Tobacco  Factory  (PI.  G,  3), 
a  huge  baroque  building  of  1757. 

8.  Prom  Seville  to  Cordova. 

8IV2  M.  Railway  (Seville  and  Madrid  Line)  in  23/4-43/4  hrs.  (fares 
16  p.  40,  12  p.  30,  7  p.  40  c.) ;  one  train  de  luxe  daily,  1st  cl.  only,  fare  10 
per  cent  higher.     Trains  start  from  the  Estaei6n  de  Cordoba. 

Seville)  see  p.  59.  We  follow  the  Guadalquivir  upstream,  at 
some  distance  from  its  lofty  reddish  banks,  which  are  visible  at 
times.  Nearing  (1372  M.)  Brenes  we  enjoy  a  last  retrospect  of 
the  cathedral  of  Seville  with  the  Giralda. 

22  M.  Tocina,  the  junction  for  Merida  and  Lisbon.  Beyond 
(25'/2  M-)  Guadajoz  we  cross  to  the  right  bank  of  the  Guadal- 
quivir. 4672  M.  Peiiaflor,  adjoining  rapids  of  the  river  which 
drive  large  mills.  49  M.  Palma  del  Bio,  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Guadalquivir  with  the  Genii  (p.  74).  67 l/2  M.  Almodovar,  with  a 
loftily  situated  Moorish  castle,  now  being  restored. 

8IV2  M.  Cordova.  —  At  the  Station  (Estacion  de  Madrid,  Se- 
villa  y  Malaga;  PI.  B,  C,  l;  Rail.  Restaur.)  are  omnibuses  from  the  chief 
hotels. 

Hotels  (eomp.  p.  51;  charges  should  he  arranged  beforehand).  Hut. 
S/rizo  (PI.  a;  C,  2),  corner  of  Calle  Duque  de  Hornaehuelos  and  the  narrow 
Calle  Diego  Leon,  pens,  from  12V2P->  variously  judged.  —  Less  expensive: 
Hot.  de  Oriente  (PI.  c;  C,  2),  pens.  8-10  p.;  Hot.  de  Espafia  &  Francia 
(PI.  b;  C,  2),  pens.  8  p.;  Hot.  Simon  (PI.  d;  C,  2),  pens.  5-6  p.,  very  fair; 
these  three  are  in  the  Paseo  del  Gran  Capitan;  Cuatro  Naciones,  Calle 
San  Miguel  4. 

Cafes.  Oaf e" -Restaur.  Suizo,  Calle  Anibrosio  de  Morales  (PI.  D,  3) ;  La 
Perla,   Calle   del  Conde   de  Gondomar  No.  1,    Cerveceria  Alemana  No.  8. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  D,  3),  Plazuela  de  Seneca. 

British  Vice-Consul,  Richard  Eshott  Carr. 

Half-a-Dat,  when  time  presses:  Cathedral  (open  all  day,  except  12-2; 
closes  2  hrs.  before  sunset) ;  visit  to  the  Mihrab,  Renaissance  choir,  Mudejar 
chapel,  etc.,  for  which  a  permiso  (2  p.)  is  obtained  at  the  Olicina  de  la 
Obreria,  adjoining  the  Puerta  del  Pertton ;  then  the  Guadalquivir  Bridge, 
with  the  C'alahorra;  the  Paseo  del  Gran  Capitdn  and  Jardines  de  la 
Victoria. 

Cordova,  Span.  Cordoba  (391  ft.),  a  provincial  capital  and  the 
seat  of  a  bishop,  with  60,000  inhab.,  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  Sierra 
de  Cordoba,  a  spur  of  the  Sierra  Morena,  in  a  plain  sloping  gently 
down  to  the  Guadalquivir.  The  town,  whose  ancient  glory  has  long 
departed,  now  contains  little  or  nothing  to  interest  the  expectant 
traveller  except  the  mosque,  now  the  Cathedral,  which  in  spite  of 
many  later  additions  and  disfigurements,  is  still  the  grandest  mon- 
ument in  Spain  of  the  Moorish  period.  Other  memorials  of  this 
Mecca  of  the  Occident,  once  famous  as  a  patroness  of  science  also, 
now  survive  only  in  several  portals  and  inscriptions. 


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BMory.  CORDOVA.  «•  Route.     69 

Corduba,  the  most  iuipoitant  of  the  ancient  Iberian  town8  on  the 
upper  course  of  the  Beetis,  became  a  Roman  colony  in  152  B.C.,  and  was 
noted  for  its  commerce  and  its  wealth.  The  Visigothic  king  Leovigild 
wrested  it  in  571  from  the  Byzantines  and  made  it  an  episcopal  see. 
After  the  decisive  battle  of  711  (p.  51)  Cordova  was  captured  by  tho 
Moors,  aided  by.  the  Jews  who  were  alienated  b_y  the  arrogance  of  the 
Visigoths.  With  the  Moorish  sway  begins  the  world-wide  fame  of  the 
city,  especially  from  the  time  when  the  emir  Abderrahmdn  I.,  of  the 
house  of  the  Omaiyades  (p.  185),  on  his  escape  from  the  massacre  of 
his  family  at  Damascus,  settled  at  Cordova  in  756  and  declared  his  in- 
dependence of  the  Oriental  caliphate.  As  the  capital  of  the  Spanish  or 
western  caliphate,  Cordova  soon  became  the  wealthiest  city  in  Spain,  and 
even  for  a  short  time  the  richest  in  Europe,  notably  under  Abderrahmdn  II. 
(822-52)  and  Abderrahmdn  III.  (912-61),  the  greatest  of  the  Omaiyades, 
and  also  under  the  governor  (liajib)  Al-Monsiir  (d.  1002).  It  even  rivalled 
Bagdad  and  Fez  as  a  brilliant  centre  of  Mohammedan  culture,  to  which 
students  flocked  from  every  part  of  the  Occident.  At  length,  after  the 
Almoravides  and  Almohades  (p.  95),  who  had  been  summoned  to  aid  the 
citizens  against  the  Christians,  had  vainly  attempted  to  arrest  the  decay 
of  the  city,  Cordova  fell,  in  1236,  into  the  hands  of  Ferdinand  III.  of 
Castile,  who  expelled  the  Moorish  inhabitants  and  in  1248  made  Seville 
his  residence.  The  city  afterwards  fell  into  decay  and  poverty,  and  the 
once  highly  extolled  Carnpiiia  became  a  desolate  wilderness. 

See  'Cordova',  by  A.  F.  Calvert  and  W.  M.  Gallichan  (London,  1907). 

From  the  Can-era  rle  la  Estacion,  or  'station  street',  bearing  a 
little  to  the  left,  we  enter  the  Paseo  del  Gh'an  Capitan  (PI.  C,  1,  2), 
the  favourite  promenade  of  the  townsfolk  on  summer  evenings. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  Paseo,  near  the  church  of  San  Nicolas  de 
In  Villa  (PI.  0,  2),  with  its  octagonal  tower,  once  a  minaret,  we 
take  the  Calle  del  Conde  de  Gondomar  to  the  left,  and  then,  just 
short  of  the  Hotel  Suizo,  follow  the  Calle  de  Jesus  Maria  (PL  C, 
2,  3)  to  the  right.  This  street,  continued  by  the  Calle  de  Angel 
de  Saavedra,  the  Calle  Pedregosa,  and  the  Calle  Cespedes,  leads  to 
the  S.  to  the  cathedral. 

The  '•  ^Cathedral  (PI.  C,  3,  4;  adm.,  see  p.  68),  ouce  the 
Mesjid  al-Jdmia,  or  'chief  mosque'  of  the  city,  one  of  the  greatest 
in  the  world,  and  still  called  La  Mezquita,  is  the  grandest  and 
noblest  creation  of  Moorish  architecture  in  Spain.  The  mosque 
was  founded  by  Abderrahman  I.  in  785,  on  the  site  of  a  Christian 
church,  and  was  intended  to  form  a  great  religious  centre  for  all 
believers  in  Spain,  and  to  induce  the  great  stream  of  western 
pilgrims  to  repair  to  Cordova  instead  of  to  Mecca.  A  model  for 
the  edifice  was  found  in  the  arcaded  courts  and  colonnaded  halls 
of  the  Egyptian  mosques  (such  as  the  Amru  Mosque,  p.  460).  The 
original  edifice  contained  only  ten  rows  of  columns,  which  formed 
eleven  longitudinal  and  twelve  transverse  aisles.  The  central  aisle 
was  a  little  wider  than  the  others  and  ended  in  a  Mihrab,  or  prayer- 
recess,  designed  to  mark  the  direction  of  Mecca  (Kibla).  As  the  build- 
ing soon  proved  inadequate  for  the  population,  which  was  rapidly 
iucreased  by  accessions  from  the  East,  Abderrahman  II.,  in  833-48, 
added  seven  transepts  on  the  S.  side  and  erected  a  new  mihrab. 
A  further  prolongation  by  fourteen  transepts  was  effected  by  Ab 


70     Route  8.  CORDOVA  Cathedral. 

Hakim  II.  (961-76),  after  which  the  magnificent  third  mihrab 
(mihrab  nuevo)  formed  the  termination  of  the  building.  Though 
the  mosque  was  now  considered  the  finest  in  the  Occident,  rivalling 
the  Kairuin  mosque  at  Fez,  it  failed  to  satisfy  the  ambition  of 
Al-Mansur  (p.  69).  As  the  sloping  ground  on  the  S.  side  precluded 
extension  in  that  direction,  this  governor,  in  987-90,  caused  seven 
new  rows  of  columns  to  be  raised  on  the  E.  side,  thus  increasing 
the  number  of  aisles  to  nineteen,  but  destroying  the  symmetrical 
plan  of  the  building,  which  required  the  mihrab,  or  holy  of  holies, 
to  be  in  line  with  the  main  axis  of  the  building. 

After  the  conquest  of  Cordova  by  the  Christians  in  1236  (p.  69) 
the  mosque  was  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  (Virgen  de  la  Asuncion).  The 
Spaniards  at  first  confined  their  operations  to  walling  up  most  of 
the  doors  and  then  fitting  up  side-chapels  along  the  walls.  As  the 
needs  of  the  Christian  ritual,  however,  soon  demanded  the  con- 
struction of  a  choir  (primitivo  coro),  part  of  the  second  mihrab 
and  the  adjoining  aisles  had  in  1260  to  be  demolished.  Still 
greater  damage  was  done  by  the  insertion  of  the  Renaissance  choir 
in  the  centre  of  the  building,  and  of  the  Sala  Capitular,  or  sacristy, 
in  the  middle  of  the  S.  wall. 

The  Ground  Plan  forms  an  immense  rectangle  of  about  575 
by  427  ft.,  of  which  fully  a  third  is  occupied  by  the  court.  Court 
and  church  are  surrounded  by  a  fortress-like  battlemented  wall 
which,  on  three  sides,  rests  on  massive  substructions.  Nothing 
indicates  the  object  of  the  building  except  the  rich  portals,  flanked 
with  niches  and  windows,  and,  on  the  N.  side,  adjoining  the  Calle 
del  Obispo  Herrero,  the  Campanario  or  bell-tower  (305  ft.  high), 
which  was  substituted  for  the  Moorish  minaret  in  1593.  Ascent  of 
the  tower  interesting  (adm.  25  c;  255  steps). 

The  *Puerta  del  Perdon,  the  main  gateway,  restored  in  1377 
on  the  model  of  the  gate  of  that  name  at  Seville  (p.  63),  adjoins 
the  clock-tower  and  leads  into  the  — 

*  Patio  de  los  Naranjos  ('orange-court'),  once  the  court  of  the 
mosque,  where  the  faithful  performed  their  ablutions.  Light  and 
spacious,  yet  well-shaded  by  orange  and  palm-trees,  watered  by 
five  fountains,  and  always  enlivened  with  groups  of  quiet  visitors, 
it  presents  a  typical  scene  of  Oriental  repose.  The  avenues  were 
originally  laid  out  in  line  with  the  colonnades  in  the  interior  of  the 
mosque.  The  old  arcades  of  the  court  (claustro)  are  now  walled 
up  on  the  N.  side.  Of  the  nineteen  gates  on  the  S.  side,  two  only, 
the  Puerta  de  las  Palmas,  the  chief  entrance  to  the  cathedral,  and 
the  small  doorway  of  the  eastmost  colonnade  are  now  open. 

The  *Interior  of  the  Cathedral,  in  spite  of  its  moderate 
height  (37  ft.),  and  in  spite  of  much  disfigurement,  is  singularly 
impressive.  In  the  subdued  light  the  forest  of  columns  seems  end- 
less. They  average  13  ft.  only  in  height,  and  are  of  the  most  diverse 


Cathedral.  CORDOVA.  S.  Route.      71 

materials,  many  of  them  having  been  bronght  from  late-Roman 
buildings  or  from  Christian  churches.  The  capitals  show  a  mar- 
vellous wealth  of  design;  their  bases  are  buried  in  the  pavement, 
the  level  of  which  has  been  raised  by  11-14  inches  in  the  course 
of  centuries.  The  vast  number  of  horseshoe  arches  which  connect 
the  columns,  in  the  direction  of  the  length  of  the  church,  and  tho 
upper  semicircular  arches  resting  on  projecting  pillars  impart 
peculiar  life  to  the  building.  The  painted  timber-ceilings  of  the 
different  roofs  have  been  restored  in  their  original  style.  The 
sumptuous  mosaic  pavement  has  disappeared,  and  so  too  have  the 
countless  chandeliers  and  lamps  which  burned  perpetually  during 
the  Moorish  period. 

The  wealth  of  artistic  decoration  was  lavished  chiefly  on  the 
mihrabs,  the  first  of  which  has  been  entirely  destroyed.  The 
second  and  third  were  each  provided  with  a  vestibule  and  two 
side-rooms,  part  of  which  was  formerly  shut  off  to  form  the 
Caliph's  maksftra  (or  court-platform).  The  vestibule  of  the  *Se- 
cond  Mihrab,  with  its  superb  shell-vaulting,  still  exists. 

The  **Third  Mihrab  is  considered  a  marvel  of  art.  The  front 
is  adorned  with  two  rows  of  columns,  one  above  the  other,  and 
with  double  toothed  arches.  The  vestibule,  now  Capilla  de  San 
Pedro,  and  the  prayer-niche  itself,  a  kind  of  heptagonal  chapel  of 
barely  13  ft.  in  diameter,  exhibit  the  most  elaborate  efforts  of 
early-Moorish  art,  especially  in  the  rich  marble  plinth  and  in  the 
coloured  glass  mosaics  executed  by  Byzantine  artists.  The  toothed 
arches  of  the  windows  and  the  boldly  interlacing  arches  of  the 
superb  dome  point  to  a  later  high  development  of  Moorish  art. 

Of  the  Christian  Additions  to  the  church  one  of  the  most 
noteworthy  is  the  sumptuous  Capilla  Mudejar  de  San  Fernando, 
to  the  left  of  the  second  mihrab,  erected  over  the  old  royal  vault. 
The  *  Renaissance  Choir  (Coro  and  Capilla  Mayor),  designed  by 
Herndn  Ruiz  the  Elder  in  1523,  was  completed,  with  many 
alterations,  in  1627.  Though  only  256  by  79  ft.  in  size,  it  is 
crowded  with  no  less  than  63  columns,  and  it  rises  high  above  the 
roof  of  the  mosque.  It  is  considered  a  masterpiece  of  the  plate- 
resque  style,  but  has  ruined  the  original  symmetry  of  the  mosque. 

The  Alcazar  (Fl.  C,  4;  now  a  prison),  erected  in  1328,  contains 
but  scanty  relics  of  the  ancient  Moorish  castle. 

The  Calle  Torrijos,  on  the  "W.  side  of  the  cathedral,  descends 
to  the  f'vertadel  Pnente,  a  triumphal  arch  of  the  time  of  Philip  II., 
on  the  site  of  the  Moorish  bridge  gateway.  Tho  Moorish  *Bridge 
(PI.  C,  D,  4)  of  sixteen  arches,  resting  on  Roman  foundations,  here 
unites  Cordova  with  the  S.  suburb  of  Campo  de  la  Yerdad. 
Halfway  across  we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  cathedral,  and  of  a  dam, 
up  the  river,  with  Moorish  mills.  The  massive  tete-de-pont,  Cala- 
horra  (Iberian  Calagurris),  also  is  of  Moorish  origin. 


72     Route  9.  LOJA. 

Returning  into  the  town  from  the  bridge,  we  may  next  visit 
the  Puerto, Almodovar  (PI.  B,  3),  a  relic  of  the  Moorish  city-wall, 
and  then  walk  through  the  Jar  dines  de  la  Victoria  to  the  station. 


9.  Prom  Cordova  via  Bobadilla 
to  Granada. 

153  M.  Railway  in  &U-&lt  hrs.  (fares  36  p.  30.  28  p.  20,  19  p.  30  c); 
express  on  Mon.  &  Frid.  only;  change  at  Bobadilla  (Railway  Restaurant). 
Beyond  Bobadilla  views  to  the  right. 

Cordova,  see  p.  68.  —  The  train  crosses  the  Guadalquivir  and 
runs  through  a  dreary  hill-country  (Campina).  Looking  back,  we 
see  Cordova,  the  Sierra  of  Cordova,  and  Almodovar  (p.  68). 

We  cross  the  Guadajoz  several  times.  Beyond  (21  M.)  Ferndn 
Nunez  the  vine  and  olive  culture  begins.  31 M.  Montilla  (1165  ft.), 
once  famed  for  its  Amontillado,  resembling  the  wine  of  Xeres 
(p.  59).  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  we  have  a  view  of  the  distant  Siena 
Nevada  (p.  49). 

47  M.  Puente  Genii  (Rail.  Restaur.).  The  town  lies  2  M.  to  the 
N.W.,  and  is  seen  to  the  right  as  we  cross  a  lofty  bridge  over  the 
Genii  (see  below).  The  train  ascends  to  the  plateau  of  the  Sierra 
de  Yeguas,  in  view,  farther  on,  of  abrupt  Jurassic  mountains. 

62  M.  La  Roda,  junction  for  Utrera.  (Lines  to  Cadiz  and 
Seville,  see  R.  6.) 

Running  to  the  S.W.  the  train  soon  readies  the  watershed 
(1477  ft.)  between  the  Guadalquivir  and  the  Guadalhorce.  Beyond 
(691/2  M.)  Fuente  Piedra  we  observe  on  the  right  the  Laguna 
Salada,  a  salt-lake  resembling  the  shotts  of  N.  Africa  (p.  169). 

77  M.  Bobadilla,  see  p.  57. 

The  Granada  train  diverges  to  the  N.E.  from  the  Malaga  line 
(R.  11),  and  ascends  the  broad  valley  of  the  Guadalhorce.  On  the 
right  soon  appears  the  Sierra  de  Abdalajis. 

87  M.  Antequem  (1346  ft. ;  Fonda  de  la  Castafia  and  others), 
the  Roman  Ant&Qaria,  lies  picturesquely  at  the  N.  base  of  the  hills, 
with  a  ruined  Moorish  castle.  The  Cuevade  Menga,  10  min.  to  the 
E.  of  the  town,  is  one  of  the  largest  dolmens  in  Spain. 

99^2  M.  Archidona;  the  town  lies  on  a  hill,  33/4M.  to  the  S. 
—  "We  next  cross  the  watershed  between  the  Guadalhorce  and  the 
Genii  and  descend  through  several  tunnels.  After  the  third  the 
snow-covered  Sierra  Nevada  suddenly  appears  towards  the  E. 

121  M.  Loja,  the  Ldsha  of  the  Moors,  together  with  Alhama, 
a  little  town  on  the  hill  121/2  M.  to  the  S.E.,  once  'the  keys  of 
Granada',  were  captured  by  the  Catholic  kings  (p.  75)  in  1488. 

The  country  is  now  hilly  and  at  places  sandy;  the  Genii  with 
its  Vega  (p.  73)  remains  on  the  right.    132  M.  Tocdn,  at  the  foot 


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GRANADA.  10.  Route.     73 

of  the  Sierra  de  Prugo.  On  the  left  rises  the  bare  Sierra  de 
Parapanda,  which  the  Datives  of  Granada  regard  as  a  barometer. 
I  ( 1  M.  P'uios  Puente,  at  the  fool  of  the  barren  Sierra  de  Elvira. 

We  next  enter  the  fertile  Vega,  enclosed  by  olive-clad  lulls. 
148  M.  Atarfe,  station  for  Santa  Fe,  3  M.  to  the  S.W.,  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Genii,  built  in  the  form  of  a  Roman  camp  by  Isabella 
the  Catholic  during  the  siege  of  Granada.  The  capitulation  was 
signed  here  in  1491  (p.  75),  and  so  too,  in  1492,  was  the  contract 
with  Columbus  regarding  his  voyage  of  discovery  (p.  5). 

In  the  foreground  appears  the  lofty  Albaicin  (p.  74);  then, 
overtopped  by  the  Sierra  Nevada,  (153  M.)  Granada  (see  below). 


10.  Granada. 

The  Station  (JSstatidn  de  los  Ferrocarriles  Aiulaluces ;  PI.  B,  6; 
no  buffet)  is  l:,/4  M.  from  the  hotels  in  the  Puerta  Heal  and  nearly 
2  M.  from  those  near  the  Alhambra.  Hotel-omnibus  to  the  former  1,  to 
the  latter  2  p. ;  an  'omnibus  general'  (50  c.  each  pers.  or  each  trunk) 
plies  to  the  Despacho  Central  (p.  51),  opposite  the  Hot.  Victoria. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  51).  Near  the  Alhambra,  in  the  Alhambra  Park,  a 
beautiful,  but  in  winter  a  cold  situation,  3/4M.  above  the  town  (2-3  min.  from 
the  hill-tramway  station;  see  below):  Hot.  Washington  Irving  (PI.  b  ;  F,  2), 
with  the  dtipendance  Slete  Suelos  (PI.  c;  F,  2),  patronized  by  English 
and  Americans;  Axhambra  Palace  Hotel  (PI.  a;  F,  3),  new,  E.  6-12'/2, 
pens.  20-35  p. ;  *Pens.  Miss  Laird,  Carmen  de  Bella  Vista,  with  garden, 
8l/2-12  p.  per  day ;  Hot.  del  Bosque  de  la  Alhambra,  at  the  N.  base  of  the 
Alhambra  Hill,  below  the  Torre  de  Comares  (PI.  E,  2),  pens.  8-15  p.,  well 
spoken  of.  — In  the  Town  (ca.  l3/4  M.  from  the  Alhambra):  *Hot.  Ala- 
meda (PI.  d;  F,  5),  adjoining  the  shady  Carrera  del  Genii,  with  view  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada,  pens.  8-20  p.;  Hot.  de  Paris  (PI.  0;  E,  4),  Gran  Via 
de  Colon  5,  with  terrace,  restaurant,  etc..  pens.  9-20  p.;  Hot.  Victoria, 
on  the  W.  side  of  the  I'nerta  Real,  with  tine  view,  pens,  from  8  p., 
Spanish,  quite  good;  Hot.  Nuevo  Oriente  (PI.  g;  E,  5),  Plaza  de  Canovas 
del  Castillo  8,  pens.  7  p.,  quite  Spanish,  very  fair;  Fonda  Navio,  Calle 
Martinez  Campos  (PI.  E.  5),  with  a  favourite  restaurant.  —  Drinking-water 
not  good. 

Cafes.  Cafe  Colon.  Calle  do  los  Reves  Catolicos  (PI.  E.  4);  Imperial, 
Carrera  del  Genii  (PI.  F,  5). 

Tramways,  l.  Pluu(  Nueva  (PI.  E,  i)-Coeheras  (red  disc):  through 
the  Calle  de  los  Reyes  Catolicos  (PI.  E.  4,  5)  to  the  Puerta  Real,  the 
University  (PI.  D,  5),  and  the  Rail.  Station  (PL  B,  A,  (5).  — 2.  Plaza  Ntn  va- 
Cerrantes  (vellow):  via  the  Puerta  Real  and  the  Carrera  del  Genii  to  the 
Paseo  de  la*Bomba  (PL  G,  H.  4).  — 3.  Puerta  Real  (PL  E,  5) -Vistillas- Al- 
hambra (green) :  via  the  Plaza  Nueva  to  the  Puerta  de  los  Molinos  (PL  G,  3; 
change),  then  by  the  hill-tramway  (rack-and-pinion)  to  the  Alhambra  Park 
(Cuesta  de  las  Cruces;  PL  F,  2,  3),  in  1/4  br. ;  fare  30  c. 

Cabs  (stationed  in  the  Carrera  del  Genii).  Drive  in  the  town,  with 
one  horse  1,  with  two  horses  2'/-2  P- ;  per  hour  2  or  3  p. — To  the  Alhambra, 
Albaicin  (p.  79).  and  Sacro  Monte  (p.  78)  5  p.  extra  (but  bargain  advisable). 
Carr.  and  pair  may  be  had  also  from  the  Despacho  Central  or  the 
Alhambra  hotels  (3  p.  per  hour). 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (Correo;  PL  E,  4),  Calle  de  los  Reyes 
Catolicos.  Post-office  open  10-12  and  after  2;  poste  rcstante  letters  delivered 
1  hr.  after  arrival  of  trains. 

British  Vice-Consul,  Chas.  E.  &'.  D<a-<  nhill. 


74     Route  10.  GEANADA.  Situation. 

Sights.  Alhambra  (p.  79),  daily,  9-12  and  1-6,  adin.  50  c.-l  p.,  on  Sun. 
free;  some  rooms  specially  shown  by  the  custodian.  —  Generalife  (p.  87), 
best  by  morning  light;  tickets  (papeletas)  at  the  Casa  de  los  Tiros  (p.  77), 
on  week-days,  9-11,  free.  —  The  Cathedral  (p.  76),  daily,  closed  between 
11  and  2.30;  the  Capilla  Real  (p.  76),  either  in  the  morning  before  high- 
mass  (in  winter  at  10,  in  summer  at  9),  or  2.30  to  4,  in  summer  3-5  p.  m. 
—  The  smaller  churches  are  usually  open  from  an  early  hour  till  8.30 
or  9  only,  but  are  shown  later  by  the  sacristan  (fee).  —  The  usual  hours 
for  other  sights  are  8-12  and  2-0;  between  12  and  2  a  substantial  fee 
is  exacted. 

Promenades.  In  winter,  Carrera  del  Genii  (p.  77),  3-5;  in  summer, 
Paseo  del  Salon  (p.  77)  and  Paseo  de  la  Bomba,  5-7.  Band  on  Sun.  and 
Thurs. 

Guides  at  the  hotels,  needless  except  when  time  presses.  Those 
who  pester  strangers  in  the  streets  and  at  the  entrance  to  the  Alhambra, 
as  well  as  gipsy  beggars,  should  be  disregarded. 

Chief  Attractions  (two  days).  1st.  Forenoon:  the  Cathedral  (p.  76) ; 
Placeta  de  la  Lovja  (p.  77);  Casa  de  los  Tiros  (p.  77);  Carrera  del  Genii; 
*Paseo  del  Salon;  afternoon:  Alameda  del  Darro  (p.  78);  *View  from 
San  Nicolas  (p.  79)  or  from  <S'an  Miguel  el  Alto  (p.  79). — 2nd.  *  Alhambra 
(p.  79)  and  Generalife  (p.  87). 

Gh'andcla  (2195  ft. ;  pop.  69,000),  once  the  capital  of  the  Moorish 
kingdom,  and  now  that  of  the  province  of  Granada,  the  residence 
of  an  archbishop  and  seat  of  a  university,  lies  most  picturesquely  at 
the  foot  of  two  hills  (about  490  ft.  high),  which  gradually  slope  to 
the  E.  up  to  the  Cerro  del  Sol,  and  descend  abruptly  to  the  fertile, 
well-watered  river-plain  of  the  Vega.  The  Albaicin,  the  north- 
most  of  the  two  hills,  the  oldest  quarter  of  Granada,  once  the 
residence  of  the  Moorish  aristocracy,  but  now  inhabited  chiefly  by 
gipsies,  forms  a  town  by  itself.  The  deep  ravine  of  the  Darro, 
which  is  generally  dry  as  its  water  is  much  diverted  for  irrigation 
purposes,  separates  the  Albaicin  from  the  Monte  de  la  Assabica, 
or  Alhambra  Hill  to  the  S.  (comp.  p.  79).  The  Darro,  descending 
from  the  N.E.,  turns  to  the  S.  near  the  Alhambra  Hill  and  falls  into 
the  more  important  Genii. 

The  two  hills  were  once  occupied  by  Iberiau  and  then  by 
Roman  settlements,  the  one  on  the  Albaicin  having  perhaps  already 
borne  the  name  of  Garnata.  Soon  after  711  the  Moors  built  the 
'Old  Castle'  (Al-Kasaba  al-Kadima)  on  the  site  of  Garnata.  After 
the  decline  of  the  caliphate  of  Cordova  (p.  69)  Zcl-wi  ibn  Ziri, 
the  governor  of  Granada,  declared  himself  independent  in  1031, 
and  founded  here  the  dynasty  of  the  Zirites,  which,  however,  was 
overthrown  by  the  Almoravides  (p.  95)  in  1090.  As  the  power  of 
the  Almohades  (p.  95)  declined  the  native  governors  revolted  anew. 
At  length  in  1246  Granada  became  the  seat  of  the  Nasride 
Dynasty,  founded  by  Al-Ahmar  ('Mohammed  I.\),  which,  after 
the  fall  of  Seville,  succeeded,  in  alliance  alternately  with  the  Castil- 
ians  and  the  Merinides  (p.  95),  in  retaining  possession  of  Granada, 
Malaga,  and  Almeria  for  nearly  250  years.  Mohammed  I.  offered 
an  asylum  in  Granada  to  the  Moors  who  were  expelled  from  Cor- 
dova, Valencia,  and  Seville,  and  began  the  building  of  the  'New 


History.  GRANADA.  10.  Route.     75 

Castle'  (Al-Kasaba  al-Jedida)  on  the  hill  of  the  Alhambra.  His 
successors  afterwards  created  the  Alhambra  Palace,  the  most 
sumptuous  of  royal  residences.  Thanks  to  their  fostering  care  for 
agriculture  and  industry,  for  science,  art  and  architecture,  Granada 
attained  such  brilliant  prosperity  as  even  to  eclipse  the  fame  of 
the  old  caliphate  of  Cordova. 

The  downfall  of  the  kingdom  of  Granada  was  at  length  brought 
about  by  party  struggles  between  the  Zegri,  the  Beni  Serrdj  (the 
Abeneerrages  of  legend ;  comp.  p.  84),  and  other  noble  families,  and 
by  quarrels  between  king  Mulei  Abu'l-Hasan  (d.  1485)  and  his  son 
Boabdil:  a  welcome  opportunity  was  thus  afforded  to  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella,  the  so-called  'Catholic  Kings',  of  intervening  and  thus  gain- 
ing their  life-long  object  of  destroying  the  last  Moorish  kingdom 
in  Spain.  After  the  death  of  his  father  Boabdil  remained  inactive 
when  Ferdinand  proceeded  to  besiege  Malaga  (p.  90) ;  he  made  one 
despairing  attempt  at  resistance  when  the  Spaniards  demanded  the 
evacuation  of  Granada,  but  in  1491  had  to  conclude  a  humiliating 
peace.  He  soon  afterwards  crossed  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  retired 
to  Tlemcen  in  N.  Africa  (p.  187),  where  he  ended  his  inglorious 
cateer.  With  the  Spanish  domination  began  the  decay  of  the  city; 
it  was  depopulated  by  the  decrees  of  the  Catholic  Kings,  the  In- 
quisition held  fearful  sway  here,  and  ere  long  Granada  became  a 
'living  ruin'.  Within  the  last  few  years,  however,  the  busy  tourist 
traffic,  the  establishment  of  sugar-factories,  and  the  prosperous 
mining  industry  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  have  somewhat  repaired  the 
fortunes  of  the  city,  and  several  of  the  old  quarters  have  been 
entirely  modernized.  But  its  picturesque  history,  its  memorials 
of  the  most  glorious  period  of  Moorish  culture  and  art,  and  the 
striking  view  of  the  snow-mountains  it  affords  will  ever  render  it 
the  most  fascinating  goal  of  travellers  in  Andalusia. 

See  'Granada:  Memories,  Adventures,  Studies,  and  Impressions',  by 
Leonard  Williams  (London,  1906);  and  'Granada  and  the  Alhambra',  by 
A.  F.  Calvert  (London,  1907). 


a.  The  Lower  Town. 

Leaving  the  railway-station  (PI.  B,  6 ;  tramway  No.  1,  see  p.  73), 
we  follow  the  Calle  Real  de  San  Lazaro  to  the  S.E.  to  the  Paseo  del 
Triii?)  fo  (PI.  C,  4),  so  named  from  the  column  in  honour  of  the  Virgin 
(triunfo).  Here,  by  the  half-ruined  Puerto,  de  Elvira  (PI.  0,  4), 
begin  the  old  Calle  de  Elvira  and  the  new  Gran  Via  de  Col6n  (PI. 
C-E,  4),  both  leading  to  the  chief  artery  of  traffic,  the  narrow  — 

Calle  de  los  Reyes  Cat6licos  (PI.  E,  4,  5),  which  is  built 
above  the  Darro,  and  connects  the  busy  Puerta  Real  (PI.  E,  5),  to  the 
S.W.,  with  the  Plaza  Nueva  (PI.  E,  4;  officially,  Plaza  Rodriguez 
Bolivar),  to  the  N.E.,  at  the  foot  of  the  Alhambra  Hill  (p.  79). 


76      Route  10.  GRANADA.  Cathedral. 

In  the  Galle  de  Lopez  Rubio,  a  side-street,  is  the  so-called  Cava 
del  Carbon,  ouce  a  Moorish  granary,  with  picturesque  horseshoe 
arches  and  stalactite  vaulting.  To  the  S.W.  of  it  is  the  modern 
(own-hall  {Aijtiutamiento). 

The  short  streets  on  the  opposite  side  lead  to  the  Alcaiceria 
(PI.  E,  4,  5),  with  its  numerous  columns,  which  was  burned  down 
in  1843,  once  a  Moorish  market-hall  (Al-Kaisariya),  resembling  the 
Oriental  suks  (p.  335),  and  to  the  modernized  Plaza  de  Bib  arrambla 
(PI.  E,  5),  named  after  a  Moorish  city-gate  which  once  stood  here. 
A  few  paces  from  these  lies  the  Plackta  dk  las  Pasiegas.  Here, 
surrounded  by  buildings  which  mar  its  effect,  rises  the  — 

*Cathedral  (PI.  1),  E,  4,  5),  an  imposing  memorial  of  the  con- 
quest of  Spain,  and  the  finest  Renaissance  church  in  the  kingdom. 
It  was  begun  in  1523  by  Enrique  de  Egas  in  the  Gothic  style, 
continued  in  1525  by  Diego  de  Siloe  (d.  1533)  in  the  plateresque 
style  (p.  51),  and  consecrated,  while  still  unlinished,  in  1561.  The 
X.  tower  only,  which  is  now  187  ft.  high,  has  been  erected;  the  huge 
facade  was  begun  in  1667  by  Alonso  Cano,  who  was  also  the  chief 
author  of  the  sculpture  and  painting  in  the  church;  the  interior 
was  not  completed  till  1703. 

Two  of  the  Side  Portals,  the  Puerta  de  San  Jeroniino,  the  first 
entrance  to  the  N.  in  the  Calle  de  Jimenez  de  Cisneros,  and  the  Puerta 
del  Colegio,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  ambulatory,  are  adorned  with  sculptures 
by  Siloe  and  others.  The  *Puerta  del  Perdon,  the  second  portal  to  the  N., 
also  owes  the  beautiful  ornamentation  of  its  lower  part  to  Siloe. 

The  *Interior  (adm.,  see  p.  74)  has  double  aisles  with  two  rows  of 
chapels,  a  lofty  transept  which  does  not  project  beyond  the  side-walls, 
a  central  choir,  and  a  Capilla  Mayor  with  ambulator)'.  The  vaulting,  100  ft. 
in  height,  is  borne  by  massive  pillars  and  half-columns.  Total  length  380, 
breadth  220  ft.  The  decoration  in  white  and  gold  harmonizes  well  with 
the  fine  marble  pavement  (1775). 

The  *Capilla  Mayor,  148  ft.  long  and  154  ft.  high,  is  crowned  with 
a  dome  resting  on  Corinthian  columns.  On  the  pillars  in  front  of  the 
marble  high-altar  are  kneeling  statues  of  the  'Catholic  Kings',  by  Pedro 
de  Mena  and  Medrano  (1677);  above  them  are  painted  *Busts  of  Adam 
and  Eve,  in  oak,  by  Alonso  Cano,  who  painted  also  the  representation  of 
the  Seven  Joys  of  Mary. 

Side  Chapels.  The  Capilla  de  San  Miguel,  on  the  right,  lavishly 
decorated  in  1807,  contains  a  picture  by  Al.  Cano,  the  Mater  Dolorosa 
(after  Gasp.  Becerra).  —  In  the  Capilla  de  la  Trinidad,  beyond  the  door  of 
the  Sagrario  (p.  77),  is  a  painting  of  the  Trinity  by  Al.  Cano. — The  Altar 
de  Jesus  Nazareno  contains  *Pictures  by  Dom,  Theotocopuli  (St.  Francis) 
and  Ribera;  the  fine  Bearing  of  the  Cross  is  by  Al.  Cano. — By  the  same 
artist  are  also  the  fine  oaken  busts  of  St.  Paul  and  John  the  Baptist  in 
the  Capilla  de  Nuestra  Senora  del  Carmen,  adjoining  the  N.  aisles. 

From  the  first  chapel  in  the  ambulatory,  to  the  right  of  the  Puerta 
del  Colegio,  a  portal  by  Siloe  leads  through  an  ante-room  (antesacristia) 
into  the  Sacristy  (18th  cent.),  containing  a  crucifix  by  Montan<Ss  (p.  6t) 
and  an  Annunciation  and  a  Conception  fa  sculpture)  by  Al.   Cano. 

A  handsome  portal  leads  from  the  right  transept  into  the  late-Gothic 
*Capilla  Real,  the  burial-chapel  of  the  'Catholic  Kings',  where  Charles  V. 
caused  his  parents  Philip  of  Austria  and  Juaua  the  Insane  also  to  be  in- 
terred. The  marble  *Monuments  are  in  the  Italian  early-Renaissance  style  : 
on  the  right  those  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  by  the  Florentine  Domenico 


Sitnto  Domingo.  GRANADA.  to.  Route.      77 

Hi :  on  the  left,  Philip  and  Juana,  by  Bartolomfi  Ordonez.  The  high- 
;iltar,  with  the  kneeling  statuettes  of  the  'Catholic  Kings',  is  by  Phfliji 
Vigarni,  a  Jiurgundian;  the  reliefs  in  wood,  historically  interesting,  re- 
present (left)  the  surrender  of  the  Alhambra  keys  and  (right)  the  com- 
pulsory baptism  of  the  Moors.  Behind  the  reliquary  altars,  which  are 
opened  on  tour  festival-days  only,  are  hung  Madonnas  by  Dierick  Bouts, 
altar-wings  by  Roger  van  der  Weyden,  a  Madonna  and  a  Descent  from 
the  Cross  by  Memling,  and  other  pictures.  Over  an  altar  in  the  right 
aisle  is  a  *Winged  Picture  by  D.  Bouts. 

The  third  great  addition  to  the  cathedral,  the  Sagrario,  erected  as 
a  parish  church  in  1705-59,  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  mosque,  with 
its  eleven  aisles,  which  was  used  for  Christian  worship  down  to  1661. 

The  picturesque  Placeta  de  la  Lonja  (PI.  E,  4),  on  the  S.  side 
of  the  cathedral,  affords  a  good  view  of  the  Lonja  (Exchange), 
built  in  1518-22,  which  stands  before  the  Sagrario,  of  the  rich 
architecture  of  the  Capilla  Real,  and  of  the — ■ 

Casa  del  Cabildo  Antigua,  once  the  seat  of  the  Moorish 
university  founded  here  after  the  downfall  of  Cordova  and  Seville, 
afterwards  the  residence  of  the  'Catholic  Kings',  and  now  a  cloth 
magazine.  Its  fantastic  exterior  dates  from  the  18th  cent.;  in  the 
interior  are  two  interesting  rooms  of  the  Moorish  period  (fee  50  c). 


From  the  E.  end  of  the  Calle  de  los  Reyes  Catolicos  (p.  75)  the 
Calle  Castro  y  Serrano  and  Calle  Doctor  Eximio  lead  to  the  right 
to  the  Casa  de  los  Tiros  (PI.  E,  4),  a  building  in  the  Moorish 
castellated  style,  dating  from  the  15th  cent.,  and  now  owned  by 
the  Marquesa  de  Campotejar.  The  court  contains  a  venerable  tree- 
like vine.    Tickets  for  the  Generalife  (comp.  p.  74)  are  issued  here. 

The  Calle  de  Santa  Escolastica  leads  hence  to  the  Plaza  de 
Santo  Domingo  (PI.  F,  4)  and  the  old  monastery  of  Santo  Domingo 
(now  a  military  school),  with  its  pleasing  church  (15-17th  cent.). 
—A  little  to  the  S.W.  is  the  — 

Quarto  Real  de  Santo  Domingo  (PI.  F,  4;  admittance  seldom 
granted),  the  Al-Majarra  of  the  Moors,  now  named  after  a  tower 
of  the  13th  cent.,  a  superb  villa  with  a  Moorish  portal  and  a  hall 
whose  charming  decoration  is  older  than  the  Alhambra.  The 
beautiful  garden  is  said  to  have  been  laid  out  in  Moorish  times. 

We  now  cross  the  Plaza  Bailen  to  the  N.W.  to  the  favourite 
winter  promenade  (p.  74),  the  Carreradel  Genii  (PI.  E-G,  5),  shaded 
with  plane-trees,  which  begins  at  the  Puerta  Real  (p.  75)  and  now 
comprises  the  former  Alameda.  Adjoining  the  Carrera  on  the  left 
is  the  — 

*Paseo  del  Sal6n  (PI.  G,  5,  4),  planted  with  elms  and 
adorned  with  a  bronze  statue  of  Isabella  the  Catholic.  Delightful 
view  to  the  N.E.  of  Monte  Mauror  with  the  Torres  Bermejas  (p.  80) ; 
to  the  S.E.  towers  the  majestic  Sierra  Nevada,  from  whose  rocky 
crest  the  Picacho  de  la  Veleta  (11,148  ft.),  the  grandest  point  of 
view  in  all  Andalusia,  alone  rises  conspicuously. 


78     Route  10.  GRANADA-  Carrera  del  Darro. 

b.  Darro  Valley  and  Albaicfn. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Darro  Valley  lies  the  Plaza  Nueva  (PI. 
E,  4;  p.  75),  another  focus  of  traffic  (tramways,  see  p.  73).  On  the 
left  is  the  Audiencia,  formerly  the  Chaneilleria,  built  in  1531-87 
for  the  Capitan  General  or  governor.  The  pretty  arcaded  court 
was  probably  designed  by  Diego  de  Siloe  (p.  76). 

A  few  paces  farther  to  the  E.  the  Darro  is  not  covered  in. 
Here,  on  the  right,  on  the  site  of  an  old  mosque,  is  the  church  of 
Santa  Ana  (PI.  E,  3),  a  Renaissance  building,  perhaps  designed 
by  Diego  de  Siloe  in  1541,  with  a  fine  plateresque  portal  and  an 
admirable  timber  ceiling.  The  tower,  built  by  Juan  Castellar  in 
1561-3,  with  its  azulejos  and  jutting  roof  resting  on  corbels, 
resembles  a  minaret. 

Opposite  the  church,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Darro,  begins 
the  Carrera  del  Darro  (PL  E,  3,  2),  one  of  the  oldest  parts  of 
Granada,  affording  picturesque  views,  notably  of  the  towers  and 
walls  of  the  Alhambra,  which  had  its  oldest  approach  from  this 
quarter.  (Part  of  a  horseshoe  arch  of  the  bridge  is  seen  on  the 
left  bank.)  The  Banuelo,  at  No.  37,  now  occupied  by  poor  families, 
is  a  Moorish  bath,  dating  perhaps  from  the  11th  century. 

On  the  right  side  of  the  street  we  come  to  the  church  of  San 
Pedro  y  San  Pablo  (PL  E,  3,  2),  with  its  fine  timber  ceiling.  On 
the  opposite  bank  of  the  Darro  we  observe  traces  of  the  landslip 
under  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  Alcazaba  (p.  81),  below  which  are 
the  arches  of  an  aqueduct.  To  the  N.  of  the  church  is  the  Casa  de 
Castril,  a  curious  Renaissance  building  with  an  ornate  portal  by 
a  pupil  of  Siloe. 

We  next  reach  the  Alameda  del  Darro  (PL  E,  2),  planted 
with  elms;  above  us,  on  the  right,  is  the  Generalife  (p.  87);  on  the 
left,  Albaicin  (p.  79).  Crossing  the  bridge  to  the  right  we  enter 
the  steep  Cuesta  del  Rey  Chico  (PL  F,  2),  which  leads  through 
the  ravine  mentioned  at  p.  79,  and  past  the  Moorish  towers  of  the 
Alhambra,  to  the  Puerta  de  Hierro  (p.  87),  the  E.  gate  of  the 
Alhambra,  and  to  the  Generalife. 

From  the  Darro  the  Cuesta  del  Chapiz  (PL  E,  D,  2)  ascends 
to  the  N.  to  the  old  suburb  of  Albaida.  The  street  is  named  after 
the  Casa  del  Chapiz,  erected  early  in  the  16th  cent,  in  the  Mudejar 
style  for  two  Morisco  nobles,  with  two  separate  patios.  The  house, 
now  a  bakery,  is  entered  from  No.  14,  at  the  corner  of  the  Camino 
del  Sacro  Monte. 

From  this  point  the  Camino  del  Sacro  Monte  (PL  D,  2,  1) 
ascends  the  cactus-grown  slope.  The  numerous  poor  Cuevas,  or  cave- 
dwellings,  are  chiefly  occupied  by  gipsies  (gitanos).  The  path  ends 
at  the  (25  min.)  Sacro  Monte  (to  the  N.E.  of  PL  D,  E,  1),  a  Bene- 
dictine monastery  of  the  17th  cent.,  now  a  divinity  and  law  school. 


Situation.  ALHAMBIiA.  10.  Route.     79 

The  view  of  the  Alhambra  across  the  Darro  valley,  of  the  town  and 
the  Vega,  is  one  of  the  finest  near  Granada. 

Footpaths  ascend  from  the  Cuesta  del  Chapiz  in  25  min.,  and 
from  the  Sacro  Monte  in  s/4  hr.,  partly  through  deep  gorges,  to  the 
chapel  of  San  Miguel  el  Alto  (PI.  D,  1),  in  the  midst  of  aloes 
and  cacti,  where  we  enjoy  a  grand  *  View  of  the  Alhambra,  the  town, 
the  Vega,  and  the  Sierra  Nevada. 


The  side-streets  of  the  Oarrera  del  Darro  (p.  78)  ascend  to  the  N. 
to  Albaicfn,  a  poor  suburb  (p.  74).  Not  far  from  San  Pedro  y  San 
Pablo  (p.  78)  is  the  small  Gothic  church  of  San  Juan  de  los 
Reyes  (PI.  D,  2),  an  early  16th  cent,  edifice,  whose  tower  was  once 
a  minaret. 

Above  this  church,  and  of  like  date,  is  the  Gothic  church  of 
San  Nicolas  (PI.  D,  2),  also  built  on  Moorish  foundations,  and 
containing  a  line  timber  ceiling.  The  famous  *  View  of  the  Alhambra 
and  the  Sierra  Nevada  is  a  favourite  subject  with  artists.  The 
Puerto  de  los  Estandartes  (PI.  D,  3),  close  by,  is  a  relic  of  the 
Moorish  Castle  Wall,  which  runs  down  hence  to  the  Puerta  Mo- 
ndita  (PI.  C,  3,4).  On  the  N.  side  the  Cuesta  de  la  Alacaba  (PI.  D, 
C,  3,  4)  descends  to  the  Paseo  del  Triunfo  (p.  75). 

On  the  way  back  to  the  Plaza  Nueva  we  pass  the  Franciscan 
nunnery  of  Santa  Isabel  la  Real  (PI.  D,  3),  whose  church  has  a 
tasteful  late-Gothic  portal  by  Enrique  de  Egas. 


c.  The  Alhambra. 

The  Alhambra  occupies  the  plateau,  795  by  195  yds.,  of  the 
Monte  de  la  Assabica  (p.  74),  which  rises  abruptly  from  the  Darro 
on  the  N.  side,  while  on  the  S.  it  is  separated  by  a  gorge,  the  Assa- 
bica of  the  Moors,  from  the  lower  spur  of  the  Monte  Mauror 
(PI.  F,  3;  p.  80).  The  axis  of  this  range  of  hills  is  abruptly 
intersected  by  a  second  gorge,  the  Cuesta  del  Rey  Chico  (p.  78), 
separating  it  on  the  E.  side  from  the  Ccrro  del  Sol  (p.  87),  at  the 
foot  of  which  lies  the  Geueralife  (p.  87).  On  the  narrow  W.  point 
of  the  plateau  stands  the  castle  of  Alcazaba.  Beyond  the  small 
glacis  on  its  E.  side,  and  beyond  the  Plaza  de  los  Aljibes,  rises  the 
Alhambra  itself,  adjoining  which,  on  the  S.E.,  lies  the  Alta  Al- 
hambra, once  quite  a  little  town,  where  the  retinue  and  servants 
of  the  court  resided.  The  whole  of  these  buildings,  enclosed  by  a 
wall  with  numerous  towers,  were  called  by  the  Moors  Medlnat  al- 
Hamrd,  literally  'red  city',  from  the  colour  of  its  stone. 

The  History  of  the  Alhambra  begins  with  Mohammed  I.  (1232-72), 
the  first  Nasride  sovereign.  While  the  Zirites  resided  on  the  Albaicin 
bill  (comp.  p.  74),  Mohammed  chose  the  Alhambra  Hill  as  a  site  for  bis 


80     Route  10.  ALHA  MBRA  History. 

palace.  The  building  was  continued  l>y  his  son  Mohammed  II.  (1272-1302), 
and  the  A lh umbra  mosque  (p.  86)  was  ■erected  l>y  Mohammed  III.  (1302-9). 
Abu'l-  Walid  Ismail  (1309-25)  was  the  first  to  erect  a  small  palace  outside 
of  the  Alcazaba,  but  this,  with  the  exception  of  the  Patio  del  Mexuar 
(p.  85),  was  taken  down  by  Yusuf  I.  (1333-54).  Yusuf  began  the  stately 
Comares  or  myrtle-court  palace,  with  its  throne  and  audience  room;  to 
him  are  ascribed  also  the  Comares  tower  (p.  83),  the  baths  (p.  85),  and  the 
enclosing  wall  of  the  Alhambra  Hill,  with  23  additional  towers.  For  the 
more  sumptuous  part  of  the  pile  Mohammed  V.  (1354-91)  was  chiefly 
responsible.  To  him  was  due  the  completion  of  the  Myrtle  Court,  the  erec- 
tion of  the  Cuarto  de  Machuca,  the  summer  abode  of  part  of  the  family, 
and  of  the  luxurious  lion-court  palace,  the  winter  dwelling  of  the  court 
and  of  the  sovereign's  harem.  The  last  Moorish  king  who  made  additions 
to  the  Alhambra  was  Mohammed  VII.  (1392-1408). 

The  'Catholic  Kings',  as  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  are  styled,  took  a 
great  interest  in  the  Alhambra;  they  restored  the  decorations  of  the  interior 
and  strengthened  the  walls.  Charles  V.  visited  Granada  in  1526,  but  with 
less  satisfactory  results.  Although  an  enthusiastic  admirer  of  Moorish  art, 
he  caused  many  outbuildings  of  the  Alhambra  to  be  removed  to  make 
way  for  his  new  palace  (p.  86).  At  length,  after  1718,  when  Philip  V. 
discontinued  the  payment  of  money  for  the  upkeep  of  the  buildings,  they 
rapidly  fell  into  decay,  and  in  1812  the  French,  on  their  retreat,  Mew  up 
several  of  the  towers.  Since  1830,  however,  the  work  of  restoration, 
though  sometimes  in  doubtful  taste,  has  been  resumed. 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  remind  our  readers  of  Washington  Irving's 
delightful  'Tales  of  the  Alhambra',  which  were  partly  written  on  the 
spot.  A  series  of  magnificent  views  of  the  Alhambra  is  given  in  the 
monumental  work  of  Jules  Goury  and  Owen  Jones,  published  at  London 
in  1842.  See  also  'The  Alhambra'  by  A.  F.  Calvert  (2nd  ed.,  London,  1907). 

The  Hii.l  Tramway  (rack-and-pinion ;  p.  73)  ascends  from  the 
Puerta  de  los  Molinos  (PI.  G,  3)  on  the  S.  slope  of  Monte  Mauror, 
affording  a  splendid  view  of  Granada,  the  Vega,  and  the  Sierra 
Nevada  on  the  left,  to  the  Cuesta  de  las  Cruces  (p.  81)  in  the  Alham- 
bra Park,  a  few  minutes'  walk  from  the  entrance  of  the  Alhambra. 

The  shortest  Road  to  the  Alhambra  is  the  Calle  de  Gomeres 
(PI.  E,  4,  3),  which  ascends  steeply  from  the  Plaza  Nueva  to  the 
S.E.,  between  the  hills  of  the  Alcazaba  and  the  Torres  Bermejas, 
to  the  Puerta  de  las  Granadas,  the  present  chief  entrance  to  the 
Alhambra  Park. 

The  Puerta  de  las  Granadas  (PI.  1 ;  E,  3),  erected  by  Pedro 
Machuca  (p.  86),  in  the  form  of  a  triumphal  arch,  on  the  site  of 
the  Moorish  Bib  Alaujar,  occupied  the  centre  of  the  wall  connecting 
the  Alcazaba  with  the  Torres  Bermejas,  the  fortifications  on  the  W. 
point  of  the  Monte  Mauror,  which  were  built  at  the  same  period 
as  the  Alcazaba,  but  have  been  frequently  restored. 

The  *Tokres  Bermejas  (PI.  F,  3 ;  'red  towers'),  now  a  military  prison, 
deserve  a  visit,  which  may  be  best  paid  on  the  way  back  from  the  Alhambra 
or  the  Generalife.  The  path  diverges  from  the  Cuesta  de  las  Cruces 
(p.  81)  a  few  paces  to  the  E.  of  the  Puerta  de  las  Granadas.  Adm.  on 
application  at  the  guard-house.  The  extensive  buildings,  with  their  under- 
ground stabling,  the  cistern,  and  the  casemates,  convey  an  excellent  idea 
of  an  ancient  Moorish  fortress.  Stairs,  rather  steep,  ascend  to  the  plat- 
form (azotea)  on  the  chief  tower,  where  we  obtain  a  most  picturesque  view. 

The  *  Alhambra  Park  {Alameda  de  la  Alhambra;  PI.  F,  3, 2), 
a  'sacred  grove'  unique  of  its  kind,  occupies  the  Assabica  Valley 


Alcasaba.  ALHAMBRA.  10.  Route.  81 

(p.  79),  reaching  far  up  its  slopes.  It  was  planted  at  the  end  of  the 
18th  cent,  with  elms  exclusively,  placed  so  close  together  as  to  form 
oue  dense  roof  of  leafage,  the  home  of  countless  nightingales.  In 
March,  when  the  sun  shines  through  the  leafless  branches,  the  soil 
is  temporarily  covered  with  rich  vegetation. 

From  the  Puerta  de  las  Granadas  three  roads  ascend  to  the 
Alhambra.  To  the  right  is  the  Cuesta  de  las  Cruces,  leading  up 
the  S.  side  of  the  park  to  the  hill-tramway  and  the  Alhambra  Hotels 
(p.  73) ;  to  the  left  is  the  rather  fatiguing  Ccesta  Empedeada,  the 
old  route  to  the  castle,  ending  at  the  Puerta  Judiciaria  (see  below) ; 
between  these  is  the  easy  Main  Road,  passing  three  fountains,  and 
also  leading  to  the  hotels,  but  connected  by  side-paths  with  the 
Puerta  Judiciaria.  Carriages  use  this  road  and  pass  through  the 
Puerta  del  Carril  (PL  6;  F,  2). 

The  entrance-tower,  with  the  *Puerta  Judiciaria  (PI.  5 ;  E, 
F,  3),  which,  according  to  the  inscription,  was  erected  in  the  reign 
of  Yftsuf  I.  in  1348,  and  was  called  by  the  Moors  Bibush-Sheria 
('gate  of  justice'),  deserves  special  attention.  Like  many  of  the 
Alhambra  towers,  this  was  really  an  independent  building,  the  road 
between  the  gates  of  which  was  made  tortuous  for  defensive  pur- 
poses. About  halfway  up  is  the  horseshoe-shaped  Outer  Gate,  above 
which  is  seen  a  hand  with  outstretched  fingers,  a  symbol  often  used 
in  the  East  and  in  S.  Europe  to  avert  the  evil  eye.  The  Inner 
Gateway  still  has  its  old  Moorish  doors  studded  with  iron. 

A  narrow  passage  ascends  thence  to  the  House  of  Gomes  Tortosa 
fnii  the  right;  PL  7,  E  3),  the  conservator  of  the  Alhambra.  Into 
the  N.  wing  is  built  the  *Puerta  del  Vino,  probably  once  the 
main  W.  entrance  of  the  Alia  Alhambra  (p.  86).  This  gate  seems 
to  have  been  once  connected  by  a  wall  with  the  Puerta  de  Hierro 
(p.  87),  so  as  to  shut  off  the  Alcazaba,  the  palace,  and  the  mosque 
from  the  Alhambra  suburb. 

At  the  top  of  the  hill  we  enter  the  broad  Plaza  de  los  Aljibes 
(PL  8:  E,  3),  so  named  from  the  cistern  (al-jibb)  filled  with  water 
from  the  Darro.  The  level  of  the  plaza  was  raised  about  16  ft.  when 
Charles  V.  built  his  palace,  and  it  is  now  adorned  with  hedges  of 
myrtle.  On  the  E.  side  rise  the  Moorish  palace  (p.  82)  and  the 
handsome  building  erected  by  the  emperor  (p.  86) ;  on  our  left  is 
the  E.  front  of  the  Alcazaba  with  two  towers,  the  Torre  Quebrada 
and  the  Torre  del  Homenaje,  85  ft.  in  height  (PL  10,  11;  E,  3); 
to  the  N.  we  look  down  into  the  Darro  Valley. 

The  Alcazaba  (PL  E,  3 ;  Arabic  Al-Kasaba,  'the  citadel')  stands 
about  460  ft.  above  the  Plaza  Nueva  (p.  78).  Except  on  the  E.  the 
hill  falls  away  abruptly  on  all  sides,  and  so  suddenly  on  the  N.E., 
in  consequence  of  a  landslip,  that  the  castle-wall  seems  endangered. 
The  only  entrance  to  the  castle  is  now  the  Puerta  de  la  Alcazaba 
(PL  9;  E,  3),  at  the  S.W.  angle  of  the  Plaza  de  los  Aljibes.    The 

Baedeker's  Mediterranean.  6 


82     Route  10.  ALHAMBRA.  Moorish 

interior  of  the  castle  is  now  occupied  by  gardens.  Of  the  original 
building  scarcely  anything  remains  except  the  ruined  enclosing 
wall,  with  its  huge  towers  and  external  terraces  (Adarves).  At 
several  points  the  masonry  resembles  the  concrete  work  of  the 
Romans  (p.  290). 

At  the  W.  extremity  of  the  Alcazaba  stands  the  'watch-tower', 
the  *Torre  de  la  Vela  (PI.  13;  E,  3),  the  Ghafar  of  the  Moors, 
on  which  the  three  'pendones'  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  were 
displayed  for  the  first  time  on  2nd  Jan.,  1492. 

The  Vela  Tower  commands  a  very  extensive  *Vraw  (doorkeeper  30  c). 
At  our  feet  lies  the  entire  city;  to  the  left,  beyond  the  Alhambra  Park, 
rise  the  Torres  Bermejas;  to  the  right,  beyond  the  Darro,  is  the  Albai- 
cin ;  in  front  of  us  extends  the  almost  circular  green  Vega,  enclosed  by 
brown  and  sun-scorched  ranges  of  hills;  to  the  S.E.  towers  the  Sierra 
Nevada;  to  the  S.  and  S.W.  rise  the  Sierra  de  Almijara,  Sierra  Tejea, 
and  Sierra  de  Alhama;  to  the  W.  are  Santa  Fe  (p.  73)  and  the  hills  of 
Loja  (p.  72);  then,  to  the  N.W.,  are  the  Sierra  de  Parapanda  (p.  73),  Sierra 
de  Elvira,  and  other  hills.  Lastly,  to  the  E.,  we  see  the  Moorish  Alhambra 
and  the  palace  of  Charles  V.,  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  (p.  86),  the  Ge- 
neralife  (p.  87),  and  the  Silla  del  Moro  (p.  88). 

The  *Jardin  de  los  Adarves  (PI.  15;  E,  3),  the  S.  terrace, 
overgrown  with  venerable  ivy  and  vines,  is  entered  by  a  small  door 
(recognized  by  the  iron  scallop-shells  on  it)  to  the  left  of  the 
Alcazaba  gate.  The  view  is  most  picturesque,  especially  towards 
evening. 


The  Moorish  **Alhambra  Palace  (adm.,  see  p.  74),  commonly 
known  as  the  Casa  Heal,  adjoins  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  Plaza  de  los 
Aljibes.  Like  other  Moorish  secular  buildings  it  is  externally  in- 
significant, and  it  is  quite  eclipsed  by  the  huge  palace  of  Charles  V. 
(p.  86).  Like  the  ancient  Greek  and  Roman  dwelling-houses  it  is 
entirely  closed  on  the  outside,  while  all  the  rooms  open  on  an 
internal  court  as  a  common  centre.  When  the  house  was  enlarged 
a  new  court  had  to  be  added,  and  so  too  the  kings  of  Granada  built 
palace  after  palace,  each  with  its  own  court  and  separate  entrance. 

On  these  buildings  the  highest  efforts  of  Moorish  art  have  been 
expended.  Their  structural  value  is  small;  the  materials,  chiefly 
wood  and  plaster,  lack  solidity,  being  often  used  for  effect  only; 
while  architectural  rules  are  constantly  violated.  But  the  in- 
genious disposition  of  the  rooms  and  their  sumptuous  ornamentation, 
whose  fairy-like  effect  is  too  often  marred  by  decay  or  by  faulty 
restoration,  are  unrivalled.  The  slender  marble  columns  by  which 
the  light  walls  are  supported  recall  the  tent-poles  of  the  nomads, 
while  the  mural  decoration  with  its  arabesques  and  flourishes 
reminds  one  of  an  Oriental  carpet.  Very  curious  too  is  the  'stal- 
actite' vaulting,  formed  by  minute  and  countless  projections  of 
the  walls,  ranged  one  above  the  other  without  visible  support.  The 
Semitic  abhorrence  of  any  representation  of  living  beings  accounts 


Palace.  ALHAMBRA.  10.  Route.     88 

for  the  absence  of  sculpture,  but  some  food  for  reflection  was  afforded 
by  the  inscriptions  with  which  all  the  wall-spaces  are  framed, 
partly  in  the  venerable  Cutic  characters  (p.  150),  partly  in  Andalu- 
sian  flowing  letters,  extolling  Allah  and  the  reigning  family. 

The  present  low-lying  Entrance  (Entrada  Moderna),  adjacent 
to  the  emperor's  palace,  leads  into  the  — 

*Myrtle  Court  (Patio  de  la  Alberca  or  de  los  Arrayanes), 
which  belongs  to  the  Comares  palace  (p.  80),  and  derives  its  name 
from  the  myrtle-hedges  (mesas  de  arrayanes)  around  its  pond 
(alberca).  The  court  is  121  ft.  long  and  75  ft.  in  breadth.  At 
its  N.E.  end  rises  the  Comares  tower  (see  below);  to  the  S.W.  it  is 
overlooked  by  Charles  V.'s  palace,  which  stands  about  16  ft.  higher. 
At  each  end  of  the  court  is  a  beautiful  arcade,  borne  by  six  slender 
marble  columns  and  paved  with  marble;  that  at  the  S.W.  end,  with 
its  upper  gallery,  open  at  the  top,  deserves  special  admiration. 
At  the  N.E.  end  the  arcades  terminate  in  curious  niches  (Arabic 
ar-hanlya)  with  stalactite  vaulting,  once  coloured  blue. 

The  iirst  door  on  the  N.W.  side  of  the  court  leads  into  the  custodian's 
rooms,  and  the  next  but  one  into  the  Patio  del  Mexuar  (p.  85);  opposite 
the  latter  door,  from  the  S.E.  wall  of  the  court,  stairs  (generally  closed) 
descend  to  the  Baths  (p.  85).  Opposite  the  entrance  of  the  palace  is  a 
door  leading  into  the  Sala  de  los  Mocarabcs  (p.  84)  and  the  Lions'  Court 
(p.  84).  The  stairs  in  the  S.W.  angle  of  the  court  lead  into  the  interior 
of  Charles  V.'s  palace  (p.  86). 

An  ornate  horseshoe  arch  at  the  N.E.  end  of  the  court  gives 
access  to  the  ante-room  of  the  Comares  Tower,  the  Sala  de  la 
Barea,  whose  barrel-vaulting  was  destroyed  by  a  fire  in  1899. 
By  the  entrance  are  two  niches  for  water-vessels.  The  wall  of  the 
tower  is  pierced  with  a  superb  archway,  right  and  left  of  which 
arc  two  other  fine  niches. 

The  ruinous  Torre  de  Comares,  148  ft.  in  height,  built,  it 
is  said,  by  workmen  from  Comares,  and  crowned  with  modern 
pinnacles,  contains  the  — 

**Hall  of  the  Ambassadors  (Sala  de  los  Embajadores), 
a  room  in  two  stories,  36  ft.  square  and  59  ft.  high,  once  the 
royal  reception  room.  The  last  meeting  of  the  Moors  under  Bo- 
abdil,  before  the  capitulation  of  Granada,  was  held  here  in  1491. 
Inscriptions  record  that  Yflsuf  1.  was  the  builder.  The  larch-wood 
dome  of  the  hall  has  been  compared  to  the  facetted  surface  of  a 
cut  diamond.  The  immense  thickness  of  the  walls  is  apparent  from 
the  depth  of  the  window-niches,  each  of  which  affords  a  different 
view.  The  central  windows  (so-called  Ajimez,  Arabic  khamstya) 
are  each  divided  into  two  by  a  slender  column.  This  hall  is  one  of 
the  most  richly  decorated  in  the  Alhambra. 

From  the  first  window-niche  on  the  right  in  the  S.E.  wall  a  passage 
leads  to  the  Peinaaor  de  la  Reina  (p.  86)  and  to  the  lower  floor. 

We  return  to  the  Myrtle  Court  and  (as  indicated  above)  pass 
through  the  Sala  de  los  Mocarabes  into  the  — 

6* 


84     Route  10.  ALHAMBRA.  Moorish 

**Court  of  the  Lions  (Patio  de  Los  Leoaes),  which  owes  its 
name  to  the  Fuente  de  los  Leones,  a  famous  fountain  borne  by 
twelve  lions.  The  building  was  begun  by  Mohammed  V.  in  1377.  The 
court,  92  by  52  ft.,  is  bordered  all  round  with  a  colonnade,  from 
which  at  each  end  protrudes  a  superb  domed  pavilion.  The  columns 
are  alternately  single  and  grouped.  The  tasteful  elegance  of  this 
court,  originally  shaded  by  six  orange-trees,  contrasts  strikingly 
with  the  showy  pomp  of  the  Myrtle  Court.  The  fretwork  decoration 
in  stucco  looks  like  carved  ivory.  Besides  the  lion-fountain,  the 
court  contains,  at  the  ends  of  the  arcade,  eight  flat  marble  foun- 
tain-basins.   The  fountains  play  on  a  few  festival-days  only. 

The  Court  of  the  Lions,  whose  upper  floor  contained  the 
women's  apartments,  restored  in  1907,  is  adjoined  by  handsome 
rooms  all  round.  On  the  N.W.  side  is  the  present  ante-room  of 
the  court,  called  the  — 

Sala  de  los  Mocarabes,  72  ft.  long,  but  only  13  ft.  wide. 
The  handsome  barrel-vaulting  in  the  Renaissance  style  was  added 
after  an  explosion  of  gunpowder  in  1614,  but  remains  of  the  old 
dome  and  mural  decoration  have  been  brought  to  light. 

The  *Hall  of  the  Abeneerrages,  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Lions' 
Court,  derives  its  name  from  a  noble  family  (p.  75),  whose  leading 
members,  as  the  story  goes,  were  beheaded  at  the  fountain  in  the 
centre  of  this  hall  on  account  of  an  intrigue  of  Hamet,  their  chief, 
with  king  Boabdil's  wife.  We  note  specially  the  magnificent  door 
of  entrance,  and  the  curious  way  in  which  it  is  fitted  to  the  door- 
posts. The  central  part  of  the  hall  rises  in  three  stories,  upou 
which  open  two  lower  alcoves  with  beautiful  toothed  arches  and 
coffered  ceilings.  Over  the  gallery  of  the  second  story  eight  stal- 
actite pendentives  form  the  transition  to  the  sixteen-sided  third 
story,  whose  windows  diffuse  a  subdued  light.  Lastly,  the  hall  is 
roofed  with  massive  stalactite  vaulting. 

Adjoining  the  Hall  of  the  Ahencerrages,  on  the  left  and  right,  are 
the  Patinillo  and  the  Aljibe  or  cistern. 

The  *Sala  de  la  Justieia  (also  called  Sala  del  Tribunal  or 
de  los  Reyes),  on  the  S.E.  side  of  the  Court  of  the  Lions,  is  a  hall 
in  seven  sections,  with  three  arched  entrances  from  the  court,  each 
divided  by  two  columns.  Between  these  open  sections,  which  are 
roofed  with  lofty  domes  lighted  from  above,  are  two  lower  cham- 
bers. Adjoining  the  ends  and  the  E.  side  are  side-rooms  or  alcoves, 
some  of  them  dark.  The  whole  of  this  hall,  with  its  honeycomb 
vaulting  and  stalactite  arches,  presents  the  appearance  of  some 
fantastic  grotto. 

The  three  larger  side-rooms  have  ceiling-paintings  of  the  early  15th 
century.  The  central  picture,  which  has  given  rise  to  the  different  names 
of  the  hall  ('hall  of  justice',  'hall  of  the  kings',  etc.),  probably  represents 
the  first  ten  kings  of  Granada,  beginning  with  Mohammed  I.,  or,  according 
to  others,  a  meeting  of  council,  or  a  court  of  justice.  The  paintings  in 
the  two  other  alcoves  depict  hunting  and  jousting  scenes. 


Palace.  ALHAMBRA.  10.  Route.     85 

In  the  central  alcove  is  a  Moorish  Trough  (pila)  of  1306,  with  curious 
reliefs  of  lions  devouring  stags,  of  eagles,  etc.  —  The  alabaster  Tombstones 
in  the  alcove  at  the  S.W.  end  of  the  hall  are  from  the  Rauda,  the  dilapi- 
dated royal  vault  of  the  Alhambra. 

Opposite  the  Hall  of  the  Abencerrages  we  ascend  from  the  N.E. 
side  of  the  Court  of  the  Lions  by  a  narrow  passage  (pasadizo)  to 
the  — 

**Sala  de  las  Dos  Hermanas  (Hall  of  the  Two  Sisters), 
which  lies  in  the  same  axis  as  the  Sala  de  los  Ajimeces  and  Mirador 
de  Daraxa,  two  other  rooms  situated  at  a  higher  level.  This  suite 
of  rooms  seems  to  have  formed  the  winter  residence  of  the  ruler's 
harem.  The  chief  of  these,  whose  ornamentation  is  perhaps  the 
most  exquisite  in  the  Alhambra,  has  its  name  from  the  two  marble 
tlabs  in  the  pavement.  In  particular  we  admire  the  beautiful  doors, 
she  mural  decoration  in  stucco,  and  above  all  the  honeycomb)  vault- 
ing, the  largest  of  all  Arab  roofs  of  the  kind. 

In  a  corner  of  the  hall  stands  the  *Alhambra  Vase  ('el  jarro  de  la 
Alhambra'),  4  ft.  5  in.  in  height,  dating  from  1320,  and  adorned  with  enamel, 
figures  of  animals  (gazelles?),  etc. 

We  next  pass  through  the  Sala  de  los  Ajimeces,  with  its  ajimeces 
(p.  83)  and  fine  vaulting  (a  closed  passage  on  the  left  leads  hence 
to  the  Peinador  de  la  Eeiua  and  the  Patio  de  la  Reja,  p.  86),  to 
the  — 

'Mirador  de  Daraxa  ('entrance-room').  This  charming  bay 
has  three  windows,  reaching  nearly  to  the  ground  and  overlook- 
ing the  Patio  de  Daraxa  (p.  86). 

We  may  now  return  through  the  Court  of  the  Lions  to  the  Myrtle 
Court,  and  from  the  N.W.  side  (as  indicated  at  p.  83)  of  the  latter 
descend  through  the  Zagudn  or  forecourt  to  the  Patio  del 
Mexuar,  lying  13  ft.  lower.  This  is  the  oldest  part  of  the  Al- 
hambra. On  the  N.E.  side  of  the  court  is  a  pleasing  Atrium,  with 
columns  and  a  horseshoe  arch  of  1522.  The  adjacent  Cuarto  Do- 
rado also  has  Mudejar  decoration  of  the  time  of  Charles  V. 

The  Mexuar  (Arabic  meshiudr,  council-chamber),  now  the 
Capilla,  was  fitted  up  as  such  in  1537-44,  but  not  used  as  the 
palace  chapel  till  1629.  During  the  Moorish  period  it  perhaps 
served  as  an  audience  chamber  or  law-court,  and  the  gallery  as  a 
meeting-place  for  the  council  of  state. — A  modern  door  leads  into 
the  Mosala,  the  Moorish  chapel  built  by  Mohammed  V.,  which 
belonged  to  the  old  Cuarto  de  Machuca  (p.  80),  now  almost  entirely 
occupied  by  gardens. 

Nearly  opposite  the  Christian  Chapel  in  the  Mexuar  Court  is 
the  underground  Viaduct  leading  to  the  Baths  (right)  and  to  the 
Patio  de  la  Reja. 

The  extensive  subterranean  *Baths  (Banos),  to  the  N.E.  of  the 
Myrtle  Court,  in  the  style  of  those  of  ancient  Rome  (comp.  p.  290), 
date  from  the  time  of  Yusuf  I.    The  first  room,  now  freely  restored, 


86     Route  10.  ALHAMBRA.  Moorish  Palace. 

resembling  an  Apodyterium,  is  the  Sola  de  las  Camas  or  de  los 
Divancs,  with  two  niches  for  couches,  and  is  remarkable  for  its 
graceful  superstructure.  The  gallery  was  destined  for  the  singing 
girls.  The  chief  bath-chamber  (cuartos  y  sudorificos)  corresponds 
to  the  Tepidarium,  and  marble  baths  still  exist.  The  heating 
apparatus  (calorifero)  has  been  destroyed. 

From  the  Sala  de  las  Camas  we  enter  the  *Patio  de  Daraxa 
(p.  85),  planted  with  cypresses,  formerly  the  inner  garden  of  the 
palace,  but  altered  by  Charles  V.  Only  the  upper  basin  of  the 
fountain  is  Moorish.  The  rooms  on  the  upper  floor  (Aposentos  de 
Carlos  Quinto)  contain  the  Alhambra  archives. 

The  small  Patio  de  la  Reja,  with  its  fountain  and  four  cy- 
presses, so  called  from  its  window-gratings,  dates  only  from  1654- 
55.  —  The  stairs  at  the  N.E.  corner  lead  (left)  to  the  Hall  of  the 
Ambassadors  (p.  83),  and  (right)  to  a  new  corridor  which  brings 
us  to  the  — 

*Peinador  de  la  Reina  (the  'Queen's  Dressing-room') ,  on 
the  upper  floor  of  the  Torre  del  Peinador  erected  by  Yusuf  I.  The 
'grotesque'  paintings,  in  the  style  of  the  Vatican  logge,  and  the 
scenes  from  Charles  V.'s  expedition  to  Tunis  (p.  323)  are  by  Jidio 
de  Aquiles  and  Alex.  Mayner. 


The  *Palace  of  Charles  V.  (PI.  17,  E  2;  entrance,  see 
p.  83)  is  a  massive  square  pile  of  207  ft.  each  way  and  57  ft. 
in  height,  with  a  heavy  rustica  groundfioor  and  an  upper  story 
of  the  Ionic  order,  terminating  in  a  Doric  cornice.  The  building 
was  designed  by  Pedro  Machuca  in  the  Italian  high-Renaissance 
style,  in  1526,  and  its  cost  was  defrayed  out  of  the  tribute  paid 
by  the  Moors.  The  only  completed  parts  are  the  facades,  the  superb 
circular  colonnaded  court,  of  the  Doric  order  below  and  the  Ionic 
above,  and  the  main  staircase,  which  was  not  finished  till  1635. 
The  richly  sculptured  W.  and  S.  poiials,  executed  by  many  differ- 
ent masters,  are  specially  attractive. 

Passing  round  the  8.  side  of  the  palace  of  Charles  V.,  we  cross 
the  Plaza  de  los  Alamos  to  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  (PI.  18 ; 
E,  F,  2),  which  stands  on  the  site  of  the  Mezquita  Real  or  Al- 
hambra mosque. 

The  buildings  of  the  Alta  Alhambra  (p.  79)  also  present  several 
features  of  interest.  To  the  N.  (,i  Santa  Maria  we  cross  the  Alanieda, 
pass  (on  the  left)  the  ruins  of  the  Rauda  (p.  85)  and  the  outside  of  the 
Court  of  the  Lions,  and  then  descend  to  the  left  to  the  Torre  de  las  Damas 
(PI.  20;  E,  2),  a  fortified  tower  of  the  time  of  Yusuf  I.,  restored  in  1907-8, 
with  a  sumptuous  interior.  Fine  view  from  the  Mirador  (p.  87).  —  A  few 
paces  to  the  E.  lies  the  Carrnen  de  Arratia,  a  private  house  with  a 
charming  garden  (above  the  gate  is  the  inscription  'Mezquita  arabe  de  la 
Alhambra').  The  house  contains  a  Moorish  Chapel,  also  dating  from  the 
time  of  Yusuf  I.,  with  an  elegant  mihrab  or  prayer-niche. 


Generalife.  GRANADA.  10.  Route.      87 

Farther  on  in  the  same  direction  we  come  to  the  Torre  de  los  Picos 
(PI.  21;  F,  2)  and  cross  a  bastion  (baluartt)  to  the  Puerta  de  Hierro 
(PI.  22;  F,  2),  restored  by  the  'Catholic  kings',  which  forms  the  entrance 
to  the  Alhambra  from  the  Cuesta  del  Rey  Chico  (p.  78). 

On  the  margin  of  the  plateau  above  this  road  are  four  towers,  the 
two  finest  of  which,  time  permitting,  we  may  visit  under  the  guidance 
of  the  custodian,  who  lives  in  the  Torre  de  la  Polvora.  These  are  the 
Torre  de  la  Cautiva  (PI.  23;  F,  2),  the  chief  room  in  which  vies  with 
the  sumptuous  halls  of  the  Alhambra  palace  itself,  and  the  Torre  de  las 
Infantas  (PI.  24;  F,  2),  an  excellent  point  of  view. 

On  the  S.W.  margin  of  the  plateau,  beyond  the  Torre  del  Agua  (PI.  25; 
F,  2),  where  towards  evening  we  have  a  splendid  view  of  the  town,  the 
Vega,  and  the  Sierra  Nevada,  is  a  bastion  above  which  rises  the  Puerta 
de  los  Siete  Siielos  (PI.  26;  F,  2).  By  this  gate  Boabdil,  the  last  of  the 
Moorish  kings  (p.  75),  made  his  final  exit  from  the  Alhambra. 

d.  The  Generalife. 

At  the  foot  of  the  Cerro  del  Sol,  to  the  E.  of  the  Alhambra, 
about  160  ft.  above  the  Alhambra  Hill,  rises  the  *Palaeio  de 
Generalife  (PL  E,  F,  1),  once  the  famous  summer  residence  of 
the  Moorish  kings,  and  now  owned  by  the  Marquesa  de  Campotejar 
(p.  77).  The  name  is  a  corruption  of  the  Arabic  Jennat  al-Arif, 
'garden  of  Aril',  the  original  owner.  According  to  the  inscription 
it  was  redecorated  by  order  of  Abu'l-Walid  Ismail  in  1319,  but  in 
1494  it  was  altered  and  enlarged  by  Queen  Isabella.  The  inter- 
ior is  very  dilapidated;  the  ornamentation,  which  is  about  half-a- 
century  earlier  than  that  of  the  chief  apartments  in  the  Alhambra, 
is  mostly  whitewashed. 

"We  ascend  by  the  Camino  del  Cemeuterio,  a  continuation  of 
the  three  Alhambra  Park  routes  (p.  81),  and  by  the  Cuesta  del 
Rey  Chico  (p.  78),  and  ring  at  the  Outer  Gate  (PL  27,  F  2;  adm., 
see  p.  74;  fee  to  the  porter,  also  to  the  gardener).  A  cypress- 
avenue  leads  thence  to  the  N.  to  the  Entrance  (PL  28;  F,  1). 

The  picturesque  Court  is  still,  as  in  Moorish  times,  planted 
with  myrtle-hedges  and  orange-trees  and  intersected  by  a  water- 
conduit.  The  buildings  on  the  E.  side  date  from  the  16th  cent.; 
along  the  W.  side  runs  a  Colonnade  with  pointed  arches,  the  central 
door  of  which  opens  on  a  Mirador  (Arabic  manzar,  i.e.  belvedere), 
which  is  now  a  chapel.  On  the  N.  side  we  pass  through  a  five- 
arched  Gallery,  and  then  through  a  three-arched  Portal  into  a 
quadrangular  Hall  with  two  alcoves.  Beyond  this  is  a  square  room 
with  a  balcony  commanding  a  splendid  view  of  the  Darro  Valley. 
The  modern  side-rooms  are  uninteresting. 

The  *Park.  to  the  E.  of  the  main  building  and  above  it,  was 
laid  out  in  Moorish  times.  We  first  enter  the  Patio  de  los  Cipreses, 
with  a  gallery  built  in  1584-6,  and  shaded  with  venerable  cypresses. 
A  Moorish  flight  of  steps,  with  grooves  for  water  on  the  balustrades, 
ascends  to  a  Mirador  (PL  29;  F,  1),  where  we  enjoy  a  glorious 
*View  of  Granada,  the  Alhambra,  and  the  valley  of  the  Darro. 


88     Route  ll.  ALORA. 

A  good  survey  of  the  Alhambra  and  of  the  whole  Sierra  Nevada  is 
obtained  from  the  Silla  del  Moro  (PI.  F,  1),  a  spur  of  the  Cerro  del  Sol. 
It  is  reached  in  12  rain,  from  the  Cementerio  road  (p.  87)  by  a  path 
diverging  halfway  between  the  gate  of  the  Generalife'  and  the  cemetery, 
and  then  crossing  a  gorge. 


11.  From  Granada  via  Bobadilla  to 
Malaga. 

119'/2M.  Rail wav  in  6-61/*  hrs.  (fares  28  p.  90,  22  p.  66,  15  p.  95  c); 
railway  restaurant  at  Bobadilla  only  (change  carr.);  views  thus  far  on 
the  left,  afterwards  on  the  right. 

From  Granada  to  (76  M.)  Bobadilla,  see  pp.  73,  72.  The  train 
then  continues  to  follow  the  Guadalhorce  Valley. 

At  (S4'/2  M.)  Gobantes  begins  the  *Hoyo  de  Chorro,  a  ravine, 
inaccessible  before  the  railway  was  made,  where  the  Guadalhorce 
forces  its  passage  through  the  limestone  slate  rock  of  the  coast- 
hills.  The  train  is  carried  along  the  left  bank  by  means  of  tunnels 
and  of  high  bridges  crossing  lateral  gorges.  Little,  however,  of 
the  grand  rocky  landscape,  or  of  the  interesting  construction  of  the 
line,  is  seen  from  the  train  on  its  rapid  descent. 

Beyond  (89  M.)  Chorro  are  seen  the  first  oranges,  lemons,  palms, 
and  cypresses.  On  the  short  run  to  Malaga  we  are  carried  with 
more  startling  suddenness  than  anywhere  else  in  Europe  into  the 
midst  of  an  almost  tropical  vegetation,  and  finally  to  the  coast- 
region  of  sugar-cane,  cotton,  and  bananas  (comp.  p.  89). 

96  M.  Alora  (328  ft. ;  pop.  10,300),  the  ancient  Euro,  lies  to  the 
right  at  the  foot  of  the  Sierra  del  Hacho.  The  'huertas',  or  garden- 
like fields,  are  watered  by  numerous  runlets  from  the  Guadalhorce. 
Reyond  the  last  tunnel  the  valley  expands.  lOl1^  M.  Pizarra.  To 
the  S.  rises  the  Sierra  de  Mijas. 

109  M.  Cdrtama.  The  village,  the  Roman  Cartima,  lies  2x/2  M. 
to  the  S.W.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Guadalhorce,  which  was  once 
navigable  up  to  this  point.    The  loftily  situated  castle  is  Moorish. 

112^2  M.  Campanulas  lies  on  the  stream  of  that  name,  which 
waters  the  hilly  wine-country  of  Axarquia  to  the  N.,  and  falls  into 
the  Guadalhorce.  The  valley  broadens  down  into  the  plain,  the 
Hoya  de  Mdlaga  (p.  89).  We  now  leave  the  Guadalhorce,  which 
turns  to  the  S.E.;  to  the  S.  we  sight  the  Mediterranean. 

11972  M.  Malaga.  —  Arrival.  At  the  Railway  Station  (Estacion 
del  Ferrocarril;  PI.  A,  5)  we  find  hotel-omnibuses,  cabs  (see  p.  89),  and  an 
'omnibus  general'  (V4  p.),  which  last  goes  to  the  Despacho  Central,  or 
town-office  of  the  railway,  by  the  so-called  Puerta  del  Mar  (Calle  de 
Carvajal;  PI.  C,  4). — Travellers  arriving  by  Steamer  pay  for  landing  '/a  P- 
for  each  person  and  1j2  p.  for  each  trunk;  or  a  bargain  may  be  made  to 
convey  luggage  to  the  custom-house  (Aduana)  and  to  the  hotel  for  1-2  p.  — 
The  coasting  steamers  only  are  berthed  at  the  quay. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  51).  *Regina  Hotel  (PI.  a;  O,  4),  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  Alameda,  pens.  12-20  p.—  *Hot.  C0U11   (PI.  d;  C,  3),   Plaza  de  la 


Characteristics. 


MALAGA. 


//.  Route.     89 


uoa  aimswvifojIo^D 


Malaga  is  much  resorted  to  as  a  winter  residence,  chiefly  by  British 


Characteristics.  MALAGA.  u-  Route.      89 

0onstituci6n;  Hot.  Victoria  (PL  b;  C,  4),  pens.  6-12  p.,  Hot.  Nisa  (PL  c; 
C,  3),  Hot.  Ingle's  (PL  e;  C,  3),  pens.  7  p.,  Hot.  Alhambra  (PL  f ;  C,  3), 
pens,  from  7  fr.,  good,  all  in  the  Calle  del  Marques  de  Larios;  Hacienda 
de  Gird  (Engl,  landlady,  Mrs.  Cooper),  above  La  Caleta,  with  garden, 
pens.  8-15  p. 

Cafes.  Imperial,  Ingles,  and  La  Vinicola,  all  in  the  Calle  del  Marques 
de  Larios. — Beer.  Gambrinus,  same  street;  C'erveceria  de  Munich,  Plaza 
de  la  Constitucion;  Maier,  Pasaje  de  Heredia,  N.  side  of  same  plaza. 

Cabs.  Within  the  town,  and  to  the  E.  to  Hot.  Hernan  Cortes  (p.  92): 
cab  with  two  seats,  per  drive  1,  per  hr.  2  p.,  at  night  2  and  21/2  P- ;  with 
four  seats,  per  drive  H/ai  per  hr.  2V2,  at  night  per  drive  or  hour  3  p.  Bar- 
gain advisable,  also  as  to  luggage.  —  Outside  the  town  according  to  bar- 
gain: to  Palo  (p.  92)  about  5,  to  San  Jose"  and  La  Concepcion  (p.  92) 
8-9  p.  —  On  certain  festivals  fares  are  raised. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (Correos  y  TeMgrafos ;  PI.  D,  3),  Calle 
del  Cister. 

Banks.  Banco  Hi spano- Americano,  Calle  del  Marques  de  Larios;  Hijos 
de  Alvarez  Fonseca,  Calle  Nueva;  Rcin&  Co.,  Alameda  de  Carlos  Haes  4. 

Consuls.  British,  P.  Staniforth  ;  vice-consul,  E.  R.  Thornton.  —  United 
States,  E.  J.  Norton;  vice-consul,  T.  R.  Geary. — Lloyd's  Agent,  Chas. 
Fargiiharson,  Cortina  del  Muelle  69. 

English  Church  in  the  Protestant  Cemetery  (PL  F,  3). 

Steamboat  Lines.  Hall  Line  (agent,  Ign.  Morales  Hurtado,  Alameda 
de  Colon  13),  weekly  to  Cadiz,  Lisbon,  and  London;  Compailia  Tras- 
attdntica  (office,  Viuda  de  Ant.Duarte),  thrice  monthly  to  Cadiz  ;  Transports 
Ma ritimes  (P.  G.  Chaix,  Calle  de  Josefa  de  Ugarte  Barrientos  26),  on  20th 
of  each  month  to  Gibraltar,  Madeira,  etc.  (comp.  also  p.  120  and  R.  3); 
Navigation  Mirte  (P.  G.  Chaix),  from  Tangier  via,  Malaga  and  Melilla 
to  Oran  (and  Marseilles),  see  p.  123;  also  Sloman's  Line  and  others. 

One  Day.  Forenoon:  Alameda,  Park  (p.  90),  Harbour  (p.  90),  Cathe- 
dral (p.  91),  and  view  from  its  tower  or  from  the  Gibralfaro  (p.  92);  after- 
noon :  Protestant  Cemetery,  Caleta,  and  Palo  (p.  92). 

Mdlaga,  the  capital  of  a  province  and  seat  of  a  bishop,  one  of 
the  oldest  and  most  famous  of  Mediterranean  ports,  with  111,900 
inhab.,  lies  picturesquely  on  the  last  spurs  of  a  circus  of  hills,  47  M. 
long,  the  Sierra  Tejea,  S.  de  Alhama,  S.  de  Abdalajis,  and  S.  de 
Mijas,  which  enclose  the  broad  Bahla  de  Mdlaga.  The  inner 
part  of  this  bay  is  bounded  on  the  E.  by  the  Pu»ta  de  los  Cdntales, 
and  on  the  W.  by  the  Torre  de  Pimentel,  near  Torremolinos;  be- 
tween these  rises  the  Gibralfaro,  the  castle-hill  of  Malaga,  abut- 
ting on  the  harbour.  The  coast-line  is  gradually  being  extended 
seawards  by  the  alluvial  deposits  of  the  Guadalmedina  (Arabic 
'town-river'),  whose  bed,  generally  dry  (Rambla),  separates  the  old 
town  from  the  W.  suburbs.  To  the  W.  stretches  the  wonderfully 
fertile  Vega  or  Hoya  de  Mdlaga,  where  even  the  sugar-cane,  cot- 
ton, sweet  potatoes  (Convolvulus  batatas),  and  cherimolias  (Anona 
cherimolia)  are  cultivated.  Most  famous  among  the  products  of  this 
luxuriant  region  are  the  raisins  (pasas)  and  the  wines  of  Malaga, 
which  are  yielded  by  the  Axarquia  (p.  88),  to  the  N.W.,  and  by  the 
Montes  de  Malaga  and  the  hill  of  Colmenar,  to  the  N.E.,  and  which 
are  chiefly  exported  by  British  and  German  firms.  In  the  W.  suburbs 
are  several  sugar,  cotton,  and  iron  factories,  a  rare  phenomenon  in 
Andalusia.  To  the  E.  are  the  villa-suburbs,  the  strangers'  quarter. 
Malaga  is  much  resorted  to  as  a  winter  residence,  chiefly  by  British 


90     Route  11.  MALAGA.  Harbour 

and  Spanish  visitors,  on  account  of  the  mildness  of  its  climate,  the 
mean  temperature  of  the  three  winter  months  being  55°  Fahr. 

The  History  of  Malaga,  the  Malaca  of  antiquity,  begins  with  the 
Phoenicians  (p.  50),  who  gave  the  town  its  name.  Down  to  the  time  of 
Posidouius,  the  contemporary  of  Pompey  and  Cicero,  it  retained  its  Punic 
character  (Strabo  III,  4),  differing  therein  from  the  towns  of  Iberian  or 
of  Greek  origin.  The  Syrian  and  other  Asiatic  merchants  who  settled 
here  formed  distinct  guilds.  Although  the  port  was  of  some  importance  in 
ancient  times,  it  now  contains  no  memorials  of  either  the  Phoenician  (ex- 
cept a  few  coins)  or  of  the  Roman  period.  In  571  Lcovigild,  the  Visigoth 
(p.  69),  wrested  the  town  from  the  Byzantines.  In  711  it  was  captured 
by  the  Moors,  who  regarded  it  as  an  earthly  paradise,  and  whose  Arabic 
writers  vie  with  each  other  in  extolling  it.  After  1246,  along  with  Al- 
meria,  it  became  one  of  the  chief  ports  of  the  kingdom  of  Granada,  but 
its  mediaeval  glory  ended  with  its  conquest  by  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  in 
1487.  For  centuries  Malaga  remained  utterly  insignificant;  but  of  late, 
in  spite  of  the  growing  competition  of  Seville  and  Almeria,  its  trade  has 
improved  considerably. 

From  the  station  we  follow  the  tramway  line  and  cross  the 
Puente  de  Tetudn  (PL  B,  4)  to  the  Paseo  de  la  Alameda  (PL  B, 
C,  4),  a  promenade  !/4  M.  long  and  138  ft.  wide,  planted  with  planes. 
At  its  W.  end  it  is  adorned  with  a  marble  Fountain  executed  in 
Genoa  in  1560,  and  at  the  E.  end  with  a  statue  of  the  Marques  de 
Larios.  Adjoining  this  Paseo  on  the  E.  is  the  Plaza  de  Alfonso 
Suarez  de  Figueroa  (PLC,  4),  with  a  tasteful  fountam,  which  leads 
to  the  new  — 

*Park  (Parque  or  Jardines  de  Enrique  Crooke  Larios;  PL 
C-E,  4,  3),  planted  with  six  rows  of  planes  and  palms  and  with  fine 
flower-beds.  View  of  the  harbour,  part  of  the  cathedral,  the  Alca- 
zaba,  and  the  Gibralfaro.  —  The  Paseo  de  Heredia  (PL  0, 5, 4)  also, 
to  the  W.  of  the  harbour,  is  planted  with  planes  and  palms. 

The  Harbour  (Puerto ;  PL  C,  D,  4, 5)  has  been  much  improved 
since  1881.  The  E.  pier,  with  the  Lighthouse  (Faro;  PI.  D,  5),  was 
already  built  in  1588.  On  the  sand-hills  behind  the  pier  a  poor 
suburb  has  sprung  up,  called  the  Barrio  de  Malagueta  (P1.E,F, 
4,  3).  On  its  N.  side  are  the  Plaza  de  Toros  (Bull  King;  PL  E,3) 
and  the  Hospital  Noble,  erected  for  seamen  by  Dr.  Noble,  an 
English  physician.  —  To  the  Caleta,  see  p.  92. 

The  Mercado  (market-hall;  PL  B,  C,  4),  to  the  N.  of  the  Ala- 
meda, deserves  an  early  morning  visit;  the  fish-stalls  also  are  worth 
seeing.  The  horseshoe  arch  of  the  chief  portal,  with  the  motto  of 
the  Nasride  dynasty  (p.  74),  is  a  relic  of  the  Moorish  wharf,  the 
Atarazana  (Arabic  Dar  as-San'a,  'arsenal'  or  'place  of  work'). 

From  the  Alameda  issues  the  Calle  del  Marques  de  Larios 
(PL  C,  4,  3),  the  chief  business  street  of  Malaga  (many  cafes)  and 
also  a  favourite  resort  of  the  fashionable  and  leisured  classes. 
Another  important  commercial  thoroughfare,  to  the  N.E.  of  the 
Plaza  de  la  Constituci6n,  is  the  Calle  de  Granada  (PL  C,  D,  3), 
officially  called  Calle  de  Salvador  Solier,  from  which  the  Calle 
de  Molina  Larios  leads  to  the  cathedral. 


Cathedral.  MALAGA.  11.  Route.      91 

The  *Cathedral  (PL  C,  D,  3;  open  7-11  and  3  to  4.30,  in 

summer  4  to  5.30),  a  massive  edifice,  marred,  however,  by  the  build- 
ings on  the  E.  side,  occupies  the  site  of  a  Moorish  mosque,  which 
was  converted  in  1487  into  the  Gothic  Church  of  the  Incarnation 
(Encarnacion).  The  present  church,  which  is  built  entirely  of  white 
limestone,  was  probably  planned  by  Diego  de  Siloe  (p.  76)  in  1538. 
The  building  progressed  slowly,  but  in  1554  it  already  showed  the 
arms  of  Philip  II.  of  Spain  and  Queen  Mary  of  England.  In  1680 
it  was  partly  destroyed  by  an  earthquake,  but  in  1719  the  work 
was  resumed  with  greater  energy.  It  has,  however,  never  been 
completed. 

The  chief  W.  facade,  approached  by  a  fine  flight  of  marble  steps 
and  flanked  with  two  projecting  towers,  rises  opposite  the  Plaza  del 
Obispo  in  two  stories,  articulated  with  Corinthian  columns.  Corre- 
sponding with  the  three  portals  are  the  round-arched  windows  of 
the  second  story.  The  N.  tower,  280  ft.  high,  has  a  third  story 
with  Corinthian  columns,  surmounted  by  an  octagon  with  a  dome 
and  lantern.  The  S.  tower,  like  the  central  part  of  the  fagade, 
shows  only  the  beginnings  of  a  third  story.  The  portals  of  the 
transept  also  are  flanked  with  towers. 

The  Interior,  with  its  nave  and  aisles  and  two  rows  of  chapels, 
measures  377  by  246  ft.  and  is  131  ft.  in  height.  The  transept  and  the 
ambulatory  are  grandly  proportioned.  The  round  arches  of  the  ornate 
vaulting  are  borne  by  two  sets  of  pillars,  one  above  the  other,  the  lower 
being  enriched  with  Corinthian  pilasters. 

In  the  nave  is  the  Choir,  with  its  admirable  stalls  (16-17th  cent.). 
The  carved  *Statues  of  saints  and  other  figures  are  by  Pedro  de  Mena 
(d.  1693). 

In  the  Right  Aisle  is  the  Capilla  del  Rosario  (the  3rd),  which  con- 
tains a  Madonna  of  the  Rosary  with  six  saints,  by  Alonso  Cano.  —  In  the 
1st  chapel  of  the  Ambulatory,  the  Capilla  de  los  Reyes,  are  kneeling 
statues  of  the  'Catholic  kings'  (p.  75)  and  an  image  of  the  Virgin  which 
they  always  carried  with  them  on  their  crusades. 

The  Capilla  Mayor,  designed  by  Al.  Caiio,  is  formed  by  a  semicircle 
of  light  detached  pillars.  The  handsome  altar,  in  the  form  of  a  domed 
temple  with  lour  taqades,  is  modern. 

The  N.  Tower  (entered  from  outside;  over  200  steps;  custodian  30-40  c.) 
commands  a  strikingly  picturesque  *View. 

The  Sagrario,  the  parish  church  to  the  N.W.  of  the  cathedral, 
has  a  rich  Gothic  N.  portal  from  the  older  cathedral. 

The  Calle  de  San  Agustin,  passing  the  Aynntamiento  (P1.D,3), 
leads  back  to  the  Calle  de  Granada  (p.  90).  At  the  N.E.  end  of  the 
latter,  on  the  right,  near  the  Plaza  de  Riego  (P1.D,2,3),  rises  the 
church  of  Santiago  el  Mayor  (PI.  D,  3),  built  on  the  site  of  a  mosque 
in  1490,  with  a  tower  whose  lower  part  is  still  Moorish. 

If  the  traveller  is  undeterred  by  dirty  streets  and  begging  chil- 
dren, he  may  ascend  from  the  Plaza  de  Riego  to  the  S.E.  via  the 
Calle  del  Mundo  Nuevo  to  the  saddle  of  the  Curacha  and  the  Moorish 
castle  of  Alcazaba  (PI.  D,  3  ;  p.  81),  the  scanty  ruins  of  which  are 
chiefly  inhabited  by  gipsies.    This  hill-town,  once  connected  with 


92     Route  11.  MALAGA.  Caleta. 

the  Gibralfaro  by  double  walls,  probably  stands  on  the  site  of  the 
earliest  Phoenician  settlement. 

The  *Gibralfaro  (PI.  E,  2,  3;  558  ft.;  from  jebel,  mountain, 
and  pharos,  lighthouse),  whose  original  fortifications  date  back  to 
the  13th  cent.,  affords  an  extensive  view,  ranging  to  the  S.,  in  very 
clear  weather,  as  far  as  the  Monte  Melila  in  Africa  (p.  124).  The 
ascent  from  the  Coracha  (p.  91)  is  fairly  easy.  Leave  to  see  the 
castle  must  be  obtained  beforehand  from  the  commandant,  at  the 
Gobierno  Militar,  Alameda  de  Colon  2.  The  same  views  may  be 
obtained  by  walking  round  the  old  enclosing  walls,  but  this  is 
fatiguing. 

At  the  foot  of  the  Gibralfaro  runs  the  Avenida  de  Pries  (P1.F,3), 
leading  to  the  villa-quarter  of  Caleta  (P1.P,G,3),  where  are  sever- 
al pensions  and  many  superb  gardens.  (Electric  tramway  from  the 
Paseo  de  Alameda  to  Palo ;  also  steam-tramway  from  the  harbour 
to  Velez-Malaga.)  Immediately  on  the  left  is  the  pretty  Protestant 
cemetery,  or  Cementerio  Ingles,  founded  in  1830  by  the  British 
consul  W.  Mark  (usually  open).  The  little  English  Church  here  was 
built  in  1891.  At  the  E.  end  of  Caleta,  beyond  the  Hot. -Restaur ant 
Hern&n  Cortes  (PI.  k;  G,  3),  roads  diverge  to  the  left  for  the  Li- 
monar  Valley  (PI.  G,  2,  1),  where  lie  the  residential  suburbs  of  Li- 
monar,  Hiyueral,  and  Miramar. — AVe  may  follow  the  highroad, 
which  affords  charming  views,  but  is  generally  very  dusty,  to  the 
fishing-village  of  Palo,  2  M.  beyond  the  Hot.  Hernan  Cortes. 

A  delightful  excursion  may  be  taken  to  the  beautiful  park  of  the 
Hacienda  de  San  Josi,  2lj2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Malaga,  and  to  the  villa  of 
*La  Concepcion,  a  little  beyond  it.  The  latter  contains  an  elegant 
modern  temple  with  Roman  antiquities.  The  road  (carr.,  see  p.  89)  leads 
from  the  Plaza  de  Capuchinos  up  the  Guadalmedina.  From  the  Cemen- 
terio de  San  Miguel  (comp.  PI.  D,  1 :  tramway)  walkers  may  wander  along 
the  water-conduit,  half-way  up  the  slope  (40  min.),  and  then  descend  the 
avenue  of  plane-trees  to  the  left  to  the  highroad. 


IV.  MOEOCCO. 


Route  Page 

Geographical  and  Historical  Sketch.  Practical  Hints  93 

12.  Tangier 98 

13.  From  Tangier  to  Tetuan  (Ceuta) 102 

14.  From  Tangier  to  Mogador  by  Sea 104 


Morocco,  a  region  270,000  sq.  M.  in  area,  extends  from  the 
Straits  of  Gibraltar  on  the  N.  to  the  Sahara  on  the  S.,  and  is  bounded 
by  the  Atlantic  Ocean  on  the  W.  and  by  the  French  colony  of  Algiers 
on  the  E.  It  is  called  by  the  Arabs  El-Gharb  or  Maghreb  el-Aksd 
('the  extreme  West-land'),  being  the  westmost  part  of  the  ancient 
Barbary  (Arabic  Jezirat  el-Maghreb,  'island  of  the  West'),  the 
long  coast-land  of  N.  Africa  between  the  Libyan  desert  and  the 
ocean.  The  backbone  of  this  region,  whose  population  is  estimated 
at  from  six  to  eight  millions,  is  formed  by  the  Morocco  Atlas,  the 
highest  mountains  in  N.  Africa,  a  folded  rock-formation,  mostly  of 
early  origin.  The  range  consists  of  three  main  chains:  the  barren 
Great  Atlas,  an  enormous  wall  of  rock  culminating  in  the  Tamyurt 
and  Likumpt  (about  14,800  ft.);  then  the  Lesser  Atlas  to  the  N., 
rising  in  the  territory  of  the  Beni  Wara'fn  tribe  to  over  13,000  ft., 
and  separated  from  the  Great  Atlas  by  the  Wdd  el-Abid  and  the 
Mtdiiya;  and  lastly  the  Anti- Atlas  and  Jebel  Sarro  or  Saghro, 
parallel  with  the  Great  Atlas,  and  about  6500  ft.  in  height.  A  low 
range  of  hills,  called  the  Jebel  Bant,  between  the  Anti-Atlas  and 
the  river  Draa,  forms  the  boundary  between  Morocco  and  the 
Sahara.  On  the  N.W.  side  of  these  mountains,  between  them  and 
the  ocean,  lies  an  extensive  intermediate  tableland  called  the  Tell, 
steppe-like  in  character,  with  a  girdle  of  oases,  whence  protrude 
the  Jebilet,  the  Jebel  el-IIadid,  the  Jebel  Alchdar  or  Lakhdar, 
and  several  smaller  isolated  heights,  which  are  evidently  relics 
of  an  ancient  range  of  mountains.  The  seaboard  itself  consists  of 
the  plain  between  the  rivers  Teiisift  and  Sebu  (rendered  extremely 
fertile  by  its  mantle  of  black  soil,  Tuaress  or  Tirs),  and  of  the 
marshy  fiats  on  the  lower  course  of  the  Sebu  (ancient  Subur),  the 
most  copious  stream  in  Barbary.  These  occupy  a  district  once 
penetrated  by  the  sea,  and  geologically  resembling  the  basin  of 
the  Guadalquivir  (p.  49).  The  entire  Mediterranean  coast,  on  the 
other  hand,  from  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar  to  the  Mulftya  valley 
(p.  124),  is  bordered  by  the  Rif  Mts.  (p.  104),  a  range  culminat- 


94  MOROCCO. 

ing  in  the  Jebel  Mula'i  Abd  es-Slam  (p.  102;  5742  ft.)  and  the 
Jebel  Tiziren  (ca.  8200  ft.),  these  being  folded  mountains  of  recent 
formation,  clothed  with  extensive  forests  of  Atlas  cedar  (p.  210) 
and  arar  (Callitris  quadrivalvis  L.).  The  Rif  Mts.  and  the  Atlas 
are  sharply  separated  by  a  deep  depression  watered  by  the  Sebu 
and  its  tributary  the  InnaHen  on  the  W.,  and  by  the  Ms-An,  an 
affluent  of  the  Muluya,  on  the  E.,  a  valley  which  once  formed  the 
most  important  route  between  Morocco  and  Algeria.  Both  of  these 
mountain-ranges  are  said  to  contain  great  mineral  wealth  (iron, 
copper,  ziuc,  silver,  gold,  etc.),  but  as  yet  it  has  only  been  tapped 
to  a  small  extent  by  the  natives,  chiefly  in  the  Stis,  the  region 
between  the  Great  and  the  Anti-Atlas,  and  near  Ujda  (p.  197). 

The  Great  and  the  Lesser  Atlas,  whose  chief  peaks  are  covered 
with  perpetual  snow,  afford  also  an  abundant  supply  of  water,  which 
is  utilized  for  irrigation,  though  as  yet  very  inadequately,  by  means 
of  open  cuttings  (sakhid)  or  underground  conduits  (foggdra  or  khat- 
tdra).  The  rainfall  in  Morocco  diminishes  as  we  proceed  southwards 
from  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar;  at  Tangier  it  is  32  in.;  at  Mogador, 
16  in.;  while  in  the  interior  (as  at  Marakesh,  11  in.),  and  partic- 
ularly on  the  S.  margin  of  the  Great  Atlas,  it  becomes  very  in- 
significant. In  the  interior  the  climate  may  be  described  as  con- 
tinental (as  at  Marakesh,  where  the  mean  temperature  of  January 
is  51V20  Fahr.,  and  that  of  July  84»/2°),  while  that  of  the  S.  part  of 
the  ocean  seaboard,  thanks  to  the  prevalent  N.W.  winds  and  the  N. 
to  S.  ocean  currents,  vies  with  that  of  Madeira  in  mildness  and 
equableness.  Thus  at  Rabat  the  mean  of  January  is  55°,  that  of 
August  75°;  at  Mogador  61°  and  72°,  respectively.  The  variations 
are  greater  near  the  Straits  (as  at  Tangier,  50°  and  75°)  and  partic- 
ularly on  the  Rif  seaboard. 

Morocco  is  inhabited  chiefly  by  Berbers,  the  white  Hamitic 
indigenous  race  of  N.  Africa;  of  these  the  Amdziges  live  in  the  N.W., 
the  Berdbs  in  the  Atlas,  and  the  Shilluh  or  Shluh  on  the  ocean 
coast.  Some  of  them  retain  their  ancient  languages  (Tam&zirt,  or 
Shelha,  and  Berbri),  which  are  akin  to  early  Egyptian,  but  many, 
especially  the  dwellers  in  the  low  country,  have  spoken  Arabic 
since  the  middle  ages.  Pure  Arab  Tribes,  mostly  survivors  of  the 
Beni  Hilal  and  Beni  Solei'm  immigrants  (p.  323),  are  chiefly  met 
with  in  the  Sebu  plain  and  in  the  S.W.  steppe-region.  Many  of  the 
dwellers  in  the  towns  are  Moors  (Andalfisi)  of  Spanish  origin,  while 
numerous  Jews  are  settled,  usually  in  a  walled  ghetto  (Mellah), 
under  the  direct  protection  of  the  sultan.  Negroes,  too,  most  of 
whom  were  originally  slaves,  imported  from  the  Sudan  by  way  of 
the  Tafilet,  abound  in  the  southern  districts  of  Morocco.  The  S.W. 
provinces  of  Sfis,  Wad  Draa,  and  Wad  Nan,  which  are  interesting 
on  account  of  their  primaeval  African  flora  (p.  30),  are  mostly  in- 
habited by  the  despised  Harrdtin  (sing.  Hartdnt),  the  hybrid 


MOROCCO.  95 

offspring  of  negroes  and  Berbers,  or,  according  to  others,  descen- 
dants of  the  indigenous  population  of  N.  Africa. 

Owing  to  the  inaccessibility  of  its  mountains  and  the  natives' 
passionate  love  of  independence,  coupled  with  their  hatred  of  for- 
eigners, Morocco  has  ever  been  one  of  the  least  explored  regions. 
The  settlements  of  the  Phoenicians  and  Carthaginians  were  limited 
to  a  few  places  on  the  coast,  such  as  Rusaddir  (Melilla?)  and 
Ceuta,  and  also,  beyond  the  pillars  of  Hercules  (p.  54),  Tingis  (?), 
Zilis  (Arzila),  Lixus  (p.  105),  and  Sala  (Salee).  The  Romans 
also  seem  to  have  shunned  the  Rif  region,  and  scarcely  ever  to 
have  penetrated  into  the  interior  beyond  Meknes  (Mequinez)  in  the 
Zerhun  Mts.  From  the  time  of  Emp.  Claudius  (42  A.  D.)  Morocco, 
with  Tingis  as  its  capital,  formed  the  Provincia  Mauretania 
Tinyitana  (comp.  p.  124);  and  after  the  reign  of  Diocletian  it  be- 
came part  of  the  Spanish  Provincia  Ulterior.  In  the  early  Christian 
period  also  the  coast  of  Morocco,  whose  inhabitants  had  joined  the 
Donatisls  (p.  172),  shared  the  fortunes  of  Spain,  belonging  success- 
ively to  the  Vandals  (p.  322),  the  Eastern  Romans,  and  (after  620) 
the  Visigoths,  until  in  682  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Arabs  under 
Sidi  Okba  (p.  322),  and  then  after  long  struggles  was  united  with 
the  caliphate  of  Damascus  (p.  485).  Although  the  Berber  tribes  of 
Morocco  were  thenceforth  among  the  most  zealous  champions  of 
Islam,  and  in  711,  at  the  instance  of  Miisa,  the  governor,  had 
undertaken  their  victorious  expedition  against  Spain  under  Tdrik 
(p.  54),  yet  they  afterwards  took  part  in  the  Kharijite  movement 
against  the  Arabs  (comp.  p.  323).  In  788  Idris  I.  (d.  793),  an  Arab 
refugee  and  a  descendant  of  the  Prophet  ('sherif),  founded  the 
oldest  Moroccan  dynasty,  that  of  the  Idrisides,  and  under  Idris  II. 
(793-828)  Fez  became  their  new  capital  in  807  instead  of  Volubilis 
in  the  Zerhun  Mts.  After  the  fall  of  the  Idrisides  the  country  was 
divided  among  Berber  princes,  and  its  independence  was  threat- 
ened by  Omaiyadcs  (p.  69)  and  Fati mites  (p.  323)  alternately.  At 
length  in  1055  it  succumbed  to  the  attacks  of  the  Almoravides 
(Morabitin,  comp.  p.  368),  a  Berber  sect  from  the  W.  Sahara,  who 
under  Abie  Bekr's  lead  converted  the  inhabitants  of  the  interior 
as  far  as  the  Sudan  to  Islam.  Under  YHsuf  ibn  Teshufin  they 
took  possession  of  Agadir  in  1081  (p.  188)  and  of  Ceuta  in  1084, 
and  in  1086  took  the  lead  in  the  struggle  against  the  unbelievers 
in  the  Iberian  peninsula.  Morocco  became  still  more  powerful 
under  the  Almohades,  a  Berber  sect  formed  in  1181  in  the  district 
now  called  Oran  (p.  169),  especially  under  the  gifted  caliph  Abd 
el-Mumen  (1130-63),  who,  after  the  battle  of  Tlemcen  (p.  188), 
extended  his  sway  over  the  Moorish  states  of  Spain,  and  in  1160 
as  far  as  Barca  (p.  414).  After  the  overthrow  of  the  Almohades  in 
1212  there  arose  in  Barbary  the  three  new  kingdoms  of  the 
Meinnides  at  Fez,  the  Abdelwadites  (p.  188)  at  Tlemcen,  and  the 


96  MOROCCO. 

Haf sides  (p.  323)  in  Tunis,  whose  strength  was  exhausted  by 
sanguinary  internecine  struggles  which  lasted  for  centuries. 

The  attacks  of  the  Portuguese,  who  took  Ceuta  in  1415,  occu- 
pied Arzila  and  Tangier  in  1471,  and  after  1500  even  threatened 
Marakesh  from  their  base  on  the  ocean  seaboard,  coupled  with 
the  advance  of  the  Spaniards,  who  after  the  fall  of  Granada  (p.  75) 
had  conquered  Melilla,  called  forth  the  new  counter-movement  of 
the  Saadites  of  the  Draa.  To  this  new  dynasty,  after  the  conquest 
of  Marakesh  in  1520  and  of  Fez  in  1550,  the  feeble  dynasty  of 
the  Merinides  succumbed  in  1554.  Morocco  was  afterwards  torn 
by  sanguinary  family  feuds,  yet  owing  to  the  destruction  of  the 
Portuguese  army  iu  the  'battle  of  the  three  kings'  at  Alcazar  (Ksar 
el-Kebir),  and  the  influx  of  well-educated  Moors  expelled  from 
Spain,  the  kingdom  was  greatly  strengthened  and  obtained  a  new 
lease  of  life.  It  prospered  once  more,  after  1649,  under  the  sixth 
dynasty,  that  of  the  Filali,  a  family  from  the  Tafilet  (see  below), 
and  notably  under  the  cruel  Muldi  Ismail  (1672-1727),  one  of  the 
most  powerful  princes  of  his  age,  who  even  fought  against  the  Turks 
in  Oran  (comp.  p.  206)  and  led  a  campaign  against  Timbuktu. 

After  the  defeat  of  the  Portuguese  the  pirates  of  Larash  (p.  104) 
and  Salee  (p.  106),  vying  with  the  Rif  pirates  and  the  'Barbaresques' 
(p.  221),  had  seriously  hampered  European  trade  for  two  centuries 
or  more,  but  by  the  occupation  of  Algeria  by  the  French  and  the 
expedition  of  the  Spaniards  against  Tetuan  in  1859-60  the  sea- 
board of  Morocco  was  at  length  opened  up  to  European  influence 
and  to  commercial  enterprise.  In  1906  the  Algeciras  Conference 
<p.  56)  prevented  the  French  from  advancing  towards  Fez  and 
obtaining  a  passage  from  the  Oran  and  Sahara  railway  through 
the  Tafilet  or  Tafilelt,  the  richest  group  of  oases  in  S.  Morocco,  to 
the  ocean  seaboard.  In  1907,  however,  the  unrest  at  Casablanca 
(p.  107),  and  also  on  the  Algerian  frontier,  led  to  the  French  oc- 
cupation of  that  important  seaport  along  with  the  adjacent  Shauya, 
of  Ujda  (p.  197),  and  of  Berguent  and  Bu  Denib  in  S.E.  Morocco. 
After  the  deposition  of  Muldi  Abdul-Aziz  (1894-1907),  who  was 
favourable  to  the  French  influence,  Muldi  Hafid  was  proclaimed 
sultan  in  1908. 

The  Morocco  of  to-day,  whose  institutions,  manners,  and  customs 
are  still  quite  mediaeval,  consists  of  the  so-called  Blad  cl-Malchzen 
('government  land'),  the  dominion  of  the  sultan,  and  the  far  larger 
Blad  es-Siba  ('outer  land'),  occupied  by  independent  tribes.  These 
tribes  recognize  the  sultan,  or  the  grand  sherif  of  Wazzan,  a  de- 
scendant of  the  Idrisides,  as  their  spiritual  chief  only,  but  usually 
deny  the  sultan  a  right  of  way  through  their  territory  between  the 
capital  towns  of  Fez  and  Marakesh. 

The  foreign  trade  of  Morocco  is  confined  to  the  eight  'open' 
ports  of  Tangier,  Larash,  Rabat,  Casablanca,  Mazagan,  Saffl,  Moga- 


MOROCCO.  97 

dor,  and  Tetuau,  to  the  capitals  of  Fez  and  Marakesh,  and  has 
lately  extended  to  Ujda  and  the  Spanish  Melilla  (p.  124).  In  1909 
its  total  volume  amounted  to  132,612,000  fr.  of  which  were  ascrib- 
ed to  Great  Britain  52,339,000  fr.,  to  France  51,255,000  fr.,  to 
Germany  13,582,000  fr.,  to  Spain  6,456,000  fr.,  and  to  the  United 
States  1,111,000  fr.  From  France  Morocco  imports  sugar,  flour, 
and  silk,  from  England  cotton  goods,  tea,  rice,  and  candles,  from 
Germany  iron  wares,  cloth,  and  sugar,  and  from  Italy  flour  and  wax- 
matches.  The  exports  (to  Marseilles,  Gibraltar,  Spain,  England, 
Hamburg,  etc.,  and  also  to  Algeria  and  America)  consist  of  goats'  aud 
sheep's  hides,  fruit  (almonds,  oranges,  etc.),  eggs,  cattle,  chick-pease, 
wheat,  barley,  and  maize.  The  Morocco-leather  slippers  (belra, 
yellow  for  men  and  red  for  women)  go  to  Egypt,  Algeria,  and  Sene- 
gal. Besides  the  breeding  of  cattle,  that  of  horses  and  mules  also 
is  important.    Sardines  and  other  fish  abound  off  the  ocean  coasts. 

Most  travellers  are  satisfied  with  a  visit  to  Tangier,  an  excursion  to 
Tetmin,  and  the  interesting  coasting  voyage  (hest  in  April-Sept.)  to  Rabat 
or  Mogador.  Europeaus  rarely  travel  in  the  interior,  except  perhaps  in 
Blad  el-Makhzen,  while  in  N.  Morocco  they  should  ayoid  the  rainy  winter 
season.  As  roads,  bridges,  and  inns  are  lacking,  a  costly  equipment  for 
such  expeditions  is  required,  including  tents,  camp-beds,  cooking  utensils, 
provisions,  drinking-water,  candles,  medicines,  insect-powder,  etc.  A  guide 
or  mule-driver,  a  cook,  an  interpreter,  and  a  soldier  as  an  escort  (me- 
khazni)  also  are  usually  engaged.  Lastly  a  mule  (incl.  attendant  aud  fod- 
der, 4-5  pesetas  per  day)  is  preferable  to  a  horse  (5  p.  or  upwards),  being 
more  sure-footed  and  enduring.  Before  starting,  the  traveller  should  apply 
for  information  and  assistance  to  a  consul  or  other  experienced  resident, 
and  obtain  from  them  introductions  to  the  local  authorities  (caid,  pasha, 
or  amel)  or  to  so-called  proteges  (semsar,  mokhillat).  Persons  of  distinc- 
tion have  a  right  to  a  formal  reception  by  the  authorities  and  to  the  m&na 
(free  provisions,  like  the  ancient  'purveyance'),  for  which,  as  also  for 
hospitality,  a  return  is  made  either  in  kind  (as  firearms,  telescopes, 
watches,  trinkets)  or  in  money.  In  the  country  it  is  advisable  to  put  up 
at  the  village  caravanserais  (uzalas),  where  a  night-watchman  is  provided 
(fee)  and  where  offerings  by  the  peasants  (milk,  oranges,  etc. ;  small  fee) 
should  not  be  declined.  At  towns  early  arrival  is  essential,  as  all  the 
gates  are  closed  at  sunset.  As  to  dealings  with  Mohammedans,  comp. 
p.  xxv.  Travellers  are  specially  warned  against  photographing  or  even 
entering  their  mosques,  saints'  tombs,  or  burial-grounds. 

In  the  seaport-towns  Spanish  silver  (p.  52)  and  English  or  French 
gold  are  current,  but  in  the  interior  Spanish  and  Morocco  money  only 
(silver  coins  of  5,  2l/2,  IV4,  iji,  and  '/4  p.).  In  the  interior  letters  of  credit 
addressed  to  Jewish  or  other  firms  are  convenient. 

Books.  R.  L.  Flayfair  and  R.  Brown,  Bibliography  of  Morocco  (Lon- 
don, 1892);  Budgett  Meakin,  The  Moorish  Empire  (London,  1899),  The 
Land  of  the  Moors  (London,  1901),  The  Moors  (London,  1902),  and  Life  in 
Morocco  and  Glimpses  Beyond  (London,  1905);  J.  Thomson,  Travels  in  the 
Atlas  and  Southern  Morocco  (London,  1889);  W.  B.  Harris,  Tafilet  (Loudon, 
1895);  A.  S.  Forrest  and  S.  L.  Bensusan,  Morocco  (London,  1901,  illus.); 

D.  Mackenzie,  The  Khalifate  of  the  West  (London,  1910;  illus.;  10s.  6d.); 

E.  Ashmead-Bartlett,  The  Passing  of  the  Shereefian  Empire  (Edinburgh, 
1910;  illus.;  15s.);  H.  J.  B.  Ward,  Mysterious  Morocco  and  how  to  appre- 
ciate it  (London,  1910;  2 s.  6rf.);  A.  Brives,  Voyages  au  Maroc,  1901-7 
(Algiers,  1909;  illus.)  and  Aperiju  geologique  et  agricole  sur  le  Maroc 
occidental;  C'h.  de  Foucauld,  Reconnaissance  au  Maroc,  1883-4  (Paris,  1888); 
Marq.  de  Segonzac,  Voyages  au  Maroc  (Pirns.  1903;  87  fr.);  Etiff.  Anbin, 

Baewekek's  Mediterranean.  7 


98     Route  is.  TANGIER.  Practical  Notes. 

Le  Maroc   d'Aujourd'hui   (Paris,  1904;  5  fr.;  also  Engl,  trans.,   'Morocco 
of  To-day',  London,  1906);  H.  Lor  in,  L'Afrique  du  Nord  (Paris,  1908). 

The  best  Map  of  Morocco  (1:500,000)   is  that  published  by   the  Ser- 
vice Geographique  de  l'Armde  (Paris;  1  fr.  each  sheet). 


12.  Tangier. 

Arrival.  The  steamers  (see  below)  anchor  in  the  open  roads,  and 
passengers  are  conveyed  to  the  pier  in  small  boats.  The  German  compa- 
nies furnish  landing-tickets  (Is.  for  landing  or  embarking),  otherwise  the 
tariff  is  1  peseta  (from  the  larger  steamers  l'/<  p.)  each  person;  trunk  ^j.2, 
hand-luggage  '/4  p.  When  the  sea  is  rough  a  blue  flag  is  hoisted  on  the 
pier  and  fares  are  doubled;  in  stormy  weather  (yellow  flag)  a  bargain 
must  be  made,  provided  landing  be  at  all  possible.  It  is  advisable  to  stipu- 
late for  the  landing  of  luggage  and  its  transport  to  the  hotel  for  an  in- 
clusive sum  (^/.j-l  p.)  and  to  disregard  the  noisy  importunities  of  the  boat- 
men and  porters.  If  need  be,  the  help  of  the  hotel-agents  may  be  invoked. 
The  traveller  should  be  on  his  guard  against  pilfering  also.  Guides,  who 
represent  themselves  as  agents  for  the  hotels,  also  proffer  their  services, 
even  during  the  crossing  from  Gibraltar,  but  their  attendance  generally 
makes  everything  dearer.  Besides  the  fares  mentioned,  pier-dues  are 
levied  (25  c;  for  each  package  5  c).  —  The  custom-house  examination  at 
the  town-gate  is  lenient.     A  passport  is  unnecessary. 

Hotels.  Hot.  Continental  (PL  a;  D,  1),  in  a  quiet  site,  not  far  from 
the  pier,  with  a  fine  sea-view,  patronized  by  Americans,  pens,  from  10s.; 
*Hot.  Cecil  (PL  b;  E,  4,  5),  on  the  Playa  Grande,  with  a  terrace  and  sea- 
view,  pens.  10-12s. ;  *Hot.  Villa  Valentina  (PL  c;  C,  5),  on  the  Fez  road, 
pens.  8- 10s.,  8  min.  from  the  Outer  Market;  Hot.  Villa  de  France 
(PL  d;  B,  4),  on  a  height  behind  the  Outer  Market,  with  fine  view,  12  min. 
from  the  quay,  an  old-established  French  house,  pens,  from  10s.  —  HdT. 
Bristol  (PL  e;  D,  2),  in  the  Inner  Market  (p.  100),  pens.  8-10s.,  good; 
Hot.  Cavilla,  pens.  8-10  p.,  well  spoken  of,  and  Hot.  Maclean,  pens. 
6-8  p.,  both  in  the  Outer  Market;  HdT.  Oriental  (PL  f ;  D,  2),  pens,  from 
8Vatr.,  near  the  Great  Mosque.  —  Wine  is  usually  an  extra. 

Cafes.  Cafe- Restaurant  Central,  Inner  Market,  dcj.  2>/2>  D.  3p. ;  Lion 
d'  Or  and  Cafidu  Commerce  near  the  French  post-office.  The  Arab  Cafes, 
mostly  conducted  by  the  guides,  are  a  kind  of  Moorish  cafes-chantants  (cup 
of  'Arab  coffee'  in  the  evening  1  p.). 

Post  Offices.  British,  German,  and  Spanish  (PL  3,  1,  2 ;  D,  2),  all 
in  the  Inner  Market;  French  (PL  4;  D,  2,  3),  behind  the  Great  Mosque. 
Postage  on  letters  to  Great  Britain,  France,  Germany,  or  Spain  10  c,  if 
posted  at  the  respective  office,  otherwise  25  c;  post-cards  10  c — British 
Telegraph  (PL  6;  B,  2),  on  the  old  road  from  the  outer  market  to  the 
Marshan  ;  French,  to  Oran,  at  the  French  post-office;  Spanish  (PL  5;  D,  3), 
not  far  from  the  inner  market. 

Steamers.  Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Co.  (E.  Chappory),  from  London 
fortnightly  for  Tangier,  Mogador,  the  Canaries,  and  Madeira  (RR.  14,  4, 
3);  Bland  Line  (M.  Pariente),  for  Gibraltar  (R.  6  b),  Tetuan  (R.  13),  and 
Larash  (R.  14);  N.  Paqvet  &  Co.,  for  Marseilles,  and  for  Rabat  and  Moga- 
dor (R.  14);  Trasatldntica  (Ortenbach),  Canary  Line  to  Casablanca,  Maza- 
gan,  etc.  (R.  14);  Vapores  Correos  de  Africa  (Romany  y  Miquel),  for  Ca- 
diz and  Algeciras  (R.  6  b),  Ceuta  (R.  13),  Larash,  Rabat,  etc  (R.  14);  Na- 
vigation Mixte  (C.  Touache;  R.  Buzenet),  for  Melilla,  Malaga,  and  Oran 
(R.  18);  Oldenburg-Portuguese  (Renschliausen  &  Co.),  for  Mogador,  etc. 
(R.  14);  Rotterdam  Lloyd  (Lalaurie  &  de  Testa),  from  Southampton  fort- 
nigntly  for  Lisbon,  Tangier,  Marseilles,  etc.;  Nederland  Royal  Mail,  from 
Southampton  fortnightly  for  Tangier,  Algiers,  etc ;  German  East  African 
Line  (Jahn  &  Toledano),  from  Southampton  every  three  weeks  for  Tangier, 


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Cluiracteristice.  TANGIER.  12.  Route.     99 

Marseilles,  etc.;  also  excursion-steamers  of  the  Peninsular  &  Oriental  Co., 
etc.  (see  p.  2). 

Physicians.  Dr.  Wilson  (English);  Dr.  Herzen,  Casa  Dahl;  Dr 
Steiner,  Hot.  Villa  de  France.  —  Chemists.  British  Pharmacy;  Bouich  & 
Ibbanez;  Bouchard,  Cireze,  both  in  the  main  street. — British  Hospital 
on  the  Marshan  (couip.  Map). 

Banks.  M.  Pariente  (English);  Banque  oVEtat  du  Maroc  (PI.  12; 
D,  2),  Inner  Market;  Comp.  Algerienne,  main  street;  German  Orient 
Bank  (PI.  11;  D,  2),  near  the  Great  Mosque;  John  &  Toledano;  Rensch- 
hausen  &  Co.,  on  the  shore. 

Shops.  For  Oriental  goods  (comp.  p.  331):  Jos.  Saadeh,  opposite  the 
Spanish  church  (p.  100);  Bensaken;  Mimon  Delmar  ('Moorish  Bazaar'). — 
Photographs  sold  by  Ruedi  (a  Swiss);  Cavilla,  next  door  to  the  British 
Consulate. 

Newspapers.  El  Moghreb  el-Akhza,  English ;  La  DipecheMarocaine, 
El  Porvenir,  El  Eco  Mauritano,  etc. 

Horses,  mules,  and  donkeys  ('borricos')  at  Benmergui's,  coast-road, 
and  Pedro's,  Outer  Market,  near  the  German  Embassy.  Donkey,  with 
attendant,  per  ride  '/.j-l  p.,  per  day  lVa"2Va  P- i  mule,  '/a  day  2-3,  day 
3-5  p. ;  horse  a  little  mure  (comp.  p.  97). 

Sea  Baths.  Delicias  de  la  Playa  and  Paraiso  de  la  Playa  on  the 
Playa  Grande  (PI.  E,  3,  4),  with  fine  beach,  from  May  to  Oct.;  bath  25, 
with  towels,  etc.  50  c. 

Legations  and  Consulates.  Great  Britain.  Minister,  Bon.  Reg- 
inald Lister  (office,  PI.  A,  B,  4).  Consul-General,  II.  E.  White  (office,  PI. 
D,  2);  vice-consul,  E.  Bristow.  —  United  States.  Minister,  W.  Carpenter 
(office,  PI.  D,  3).  Acting  Consul-General,  O.  E.  Holt.  —  Lloyd's  Agent, 
Eugene  Chappon/,  in  the  main  street. 

English  Church  Service,  in  the  church  in  the  Outer  Market  (PI. 
B,  3),  every  Sun.  (from  Dec.  till  eud  of  April)  at  8  and  11  a.m.,  and  at 
3  p.m. — Spanish  Catholic,  at  the  church  in  the  main  street  (p.  100). 

Races  in  spring  and  summer  on  the  beach.  —  Arabian  '■Fantasias' 
(Laab  el-Barood)  on  horseback  on  the  Mohammedan  festivals,  in  the 
Inner  Market  or  the  Marshan. 

Two  Days  (if  time  be  limited).  1st.  In  the  forenoon,  the  Main  Street 
and  the  Inner  Market  (p.  100),  Outer  Market  (p.  100),  Marshan  (p.  101), 
and  Kasba  (p.  101);  in  the  afternoon,  walk  on  the  beach.  —  2nd.  Excursion 
to  Cape  Spartel  (p.  101). 

Tangier,  Spanish  or  French  Tanyer,  Arabic  Tanja,  capital 
of  the  Moroccan  province  of  El-Fahs  or  Fahass,  the  largest  com- 
mercial town  in  the  whole  country,  and  the  seat  of  legations  from 
the  great  powers,  lies  picturesquely  on  the  hilly  W.  bank  of  a 
shallow  bay  of  the  Atlantic.  Of  the  46,270  inhab.  25,000  are 
Mohammedans,  12,000  Moroccan  Jews,  and  9270  foreigners  (incl. 
7000  Spaniards).  The  rough  and  extremely  dirty  streets  of  the 
old  town,  above  whose  white  sea  of  houses  peeps  here  and  there 
the  minaret  of  a  mosque,  afford  a  genuine  picture  of  Oriental  life. 
Amid  the  noisy  crowds  are  seen  the  most  widely  divergent  types, 
from  the  pale  yellow  Moorish  aristocrat  to  the  dark-brown  Moroc- 
cans of  the  south  and  the  black  negroes  of  the  Sudan.  Their  cos- 
tumes also  are  very  various.  The  Mohammedans  wear  white  or 
coloured  burnous,  brown  jellabas,  yellow  slippers  (p.  97),  and  a 
coloured  turban  or  red  fez  (tarbush).  The  Jews  wear  either  Euro- 
pean garb  or  the  regulation  black  kaftan  and  fez.  Most  of  the 
streets  are  impracticable  for  vehicles.    The  commonest  beast  of 

7* 


100     Route  12.  TANGIER.  Outer  Market. 

burden  is  the  donkey;  the  frequent  shout  of  'balek'  (take  care) 
warns  foot-passengers  to  make  room.  The  busiest  places  are  the 
quay,  whence  cattle  from  the  interior  are  shipped  for  Gibraltar 
and  Ceuta,  and  in  the  morning  the  three  markets. 

Although  already  a  Phoenician  settlement,  Tingis  (p.  101)  first  appears 
in  history  in  the  Roman  period,  when  it  vied  with  Oppidum  Novum 
(Ksar  el-Kebir)  and  Volubilis  as  one  of  the  chief  places  in  this  region. 
Augustus  conferred  on  its  inhabitants  the  right  of  citizenship,  and  Claudius 
made  the  town  a  Roman  colony.  It  is  unknown  when  Tangier  was  founded, 
but  in  the  middle  ages  it  fell  behind  the  thriving  seaports  of  Ceuta,  Ksar 
es-Serir  (p.  123),  and  Arzila.  According  to  Moorish  tradition  it  was  founded 
by  Mnlai  Abd  es-Slam  Buarakia,  the  patron  saint  of  the  town.  In  1471 
it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Portuguese,  and  it  belonged  to  Spain  from 
1580  to  1640.  In  1662  it  formed  part  of  the  dowry  of  Catharine  of  Bra- 
ganza,  consort  of  prince  Charles  (afterwards  Charles  II.  of  England),  and 
thus  came  into  the  possession  of  the  English.  In  1664,  however,  the 
English  were  signally  defeated  by  the  Moors  on  the  'Jews'  River'  (pp.  101, 
102),  and  in  1684  evacuated  the  town,  after  demolishing  the  fortifications 
and  the  pier.  Since  then  the  town  has  belonged  to  Morocco.  The  present 
fortifications,  constructed  by  English  engineers,  are  mounted  with  anti- 
quated guns,  and  the  town-walls  date  partly  from  the  Portuguese  period. 

From  the  Muelle  Nuevo  (PI.  E,  1 ;  new  pier,  1907 ;  adm.  25  c), 
we  walk  past  the  new  harbour  for  lighters  and  the  granary  (Al- 
macen),  and  then  to  the  S.W.  through  the  harbour-gate  (Bdb 
el-Marsd)  into  the  Main  Street  (PI.  D,  C,  2,  3),  which  ascends 
the  hill-side  in  a  curve  to  the  Outer  Market.  Passing  the  Great 
Mosque  or  Jdma  el-Kehir  (PI.  D,  2),  with  its  pretty  gateway  and 
lofty  minaret  inlaid  with  tiles,  we  reach  the  Inner  Market 
(Sole  ed-Ddyel;  PI.  D,  2;  Arabic  Suk  ed-Dalchl),  the  centre  of 
traffic,  with  the  European  post-offices  (p.  98).  Higher  up,  where 
the  street  takes  the  name  of  Siiaguin,  are  situated  on  the  left  the 
Spanish  Catholic  Church  (Iglesia  Espaiiol;  PI.  C,  3)  and  the  Mo- 
rocco Ministry  of  Foreign  Affairs. 

At  the  end  of  the  street  is  the  uprjer  gate  of  the  inner  town 
(Bdb  ed-Dalchl),  leading  into  Los  Herr adores  (Farriers'  Square ; 
PL  8,  C  3),  to  the  left  of  which,  and  also  connected  with  the  Outer 
Market  by  a  gateway,  lies  the  Meat  and  Vegetable  Market  (Plaza 
de  Abastos;  PI.  C,  3).  From  the  Farriers'  Square  a  second  gate  on 
the  right  leads  to  the  Mercado  (PI.  C,  2,  3),  an  intermediate  market- 
place, with  rows  of  booths  and  a  caravanserai  (Fandak).  Passing 
through  the  N.  gate  (Bab  el-Marshan;  PI.  C,  3)  and  skirting  the 
town-walls  and  the  Christian  Cemetery  (PI.  B,  2),  we  reach,  on  the 
.left,  the  Paseo  de  Cenarro  (PL  B,  A,  2),  the  new  Marshan  road,  and 
(straight  on)  the  Kasba  and  the  old  Marshan  route  (see  p.  101). 

The  Fez  Gate  (Bdb  el-Fahs;  PLC,  3)  leads  into  the  Outer 
Market  (Suk  el-Barra;  PL  B,  C,  3),  which  deserves  a  visit  on 
market-days  (Thursdays  and  particularly  Sundays).  In  this  great 
and  very  uneven  plot  of  ground,  adorned  with  the  shrine  of  Sidi 
Makhfi  (Meyfi),  the  patron-saint  of  the  market,  we  witness  a  strange 
and  indescribable  scene.  Between  the  rows  of  salesmen  and  sales- 


Excursions.  TANGIER.  '2-  Route.     101 

women,  the  latter  veiled  and  clad  in  white,  moves  a  motley  throng 
of  bargaining  and  jostling  customers,  while  smaller  groups  gather 
round  the  jugglers,  story-tellers,  and  snake-charmers  (members  of 
the  sect  of  the  Al'ssaouas;  p.  373). 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  Outer  Market  the  Monte  Road  (Cainiuo 
del  Monte;  PI.  B,  A,  3;  p.  101)  leads  to  the  W.,  past  two  Moham- 
medan Cemeteries  (Cementerio  de  los  Moros;  PI.  B,  A,  2-4)  and 
the  Portuguese  Legation  (PI.  A,  3),  to  the  (y4  hi\)  Villa  Sicsu 
(comp.  Map),  with  its  pretty  garden  (gate-keeper  l/2-l  p.). 

From  the  gate  of  this  villa  a  by-road  ascends  in  a  curve  to 
the  right  to  the  Marshall  (El  Marxan;  341  ft.),  a  plateau  to  the 
X.W.  of  the  town.  At  the  W.  end  of  it,  above  the  Bubana  Valley 
(see  below),  lie  an  estate  of  the  Sherif  of  Wazzdn  (Xerif  de  TJazan) 
and  a  Mohammedan  Cemetery.  Farther  to  the  E.,  beyond  the 
Austrian  legation,  we  come  to  a  number  of  square  Phoenician 
Rock  Tombs,  now  partly  used  as  cisterns,  situated  on  the  steep 
margin  of  the  coast,  which  is  undermined  by  the  sea. 

The  walled  Kasba  (PI.  B,  C,  1),  on  the  E.  slope  of  the  Mar- 
shall, is  the  highest  and  the  most  curious  quarter  of  the  town.  En- 
tering it  by  the  upper  gate  (Bdb  ed-Doidah  or  Bab  el-Marshan; 
Pl.B,  1).  we  first  come  to  the  barracks  and  the  Naham  Battery 
(PI.  B,  1),  where  we  have  a  splendid  view  of  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar. 
Opposite  us  is  the  Ravda,  or  burial-chapel  of  the  patron  saint  of 
the  town  (p.  100).  A  little  below  is  seen  the  Sultan's  Palace  (PI. 
B,  C,  1),  a  good  example  of  late-Moorish  architecture,  with  a  fine 
colonnaded  court,  a  mosque,  and  a  garden.  The  square  at  the  lower 
end  of  the  Kasba  is  bordered  by  the  Tesoro  (PI.  10;  treasury), 
the  Mexuar  (PI.  9 ;  law-courts) ,  at  the  entrance  to  which  the  cadi 
administers  justice  from  8  to  11  in  the  morning,  and  the  State 
Prison  (Carccl;  visitors  admitted),  where  male  prisoners  are  em- 
ployed in  basket-making  and  othrr  work.  Near  this  is  a  smaller 
prison  for  women. 

From  the  Bdb  el-Assa,  the  lower  Kasba  gate  (PI.  C,  1),  a  steep 
foot-path,  which  soon  offers  a  striking  *View  of  the  white  houses 
of  Tangier  and  of  the  beach,  descends  to  the  town. 

Excursions.  We  may  walk  or  ride  to  the  S.E.,  past  the  Sea  Baths 
(p.  99),  along  the  beach,  which  forms  an  excellent  riding-course  at  low 
tide,  to  the  (3/4-l  hr.)  Roman  Bridge  across  the  brook  Galeres  (Wad  el- 
Mogoga),  and  thence  a  little  inland  over  the  sand-hills  (100  ft.)  to  the 
Ruins  of  Tingis  (Arabic  Tavja  el- Bali  a),  where  the  Roman  seaward 
gateway  is  still  well  preserved.  The  road  then  makes  a  long  bend  to 
the  N.  to  the  Torre  Blanqvilla  (213  ft.),  an  old  Moorish  battery  on  Cape 
Malabata  (p.  6),  W/r&lt  hrs.  from  Tangier.  —  Another  pleasant  ride  may 
be  taken  from  the  shore  to  the  S.W.,  inland,  through  orange-groves  to 
(l1/.,  hr.)  the  village  of  Es-Svani,  where  we  strike  the  Fez  Road  (p.  102), 
by  which  we  may  return  to  the  Outer  Market. 

The  *  Excursion  to  Cape  Spartel ,  7'/s  M.  to  the  W.  of  Tangier, 
takes  nearly  a  day  (horses,  etc.,  see  p.  99;  bargain  advisable;  provisions 
should  be  taken).  From  the  Villa  Sicsu  (see  above)  we  descend  the  Monte 
road  to  the  Bubana   Valley,  watered   by  the  little  Wad  el-Ihiid  ('Jews* 


102     Route  12.  CAPE  SPAETEI. 

River'),  s/4  hr.  to  the  W.  of  Tangier.  From  the  bridge  we  may  go  straight 
on,  ana  mount  direct  to  the  top  of  the  Jebel  Kebir  (1070  ft.),  which  is 
overgrown  with  low  underwood ,  or  (more  attractive)  we  may  follow  the 
Monte  road  to  Monte  Washington,  a  colony  of  charming  villas  immed- 
iately overlooking  the  sea,  and  then,  8/4  hr.  farther  on,  rejoin  the  direct 
route.  On  both  routes  we  enjoy  a  splendid  view  of  the  sea  and  the  Spanish 
coast  with  Cape  Trafalgar  (p.  58).  The  main  road  at  length  descends  to 
the  W.  margin  of  Cape  Spartel  (Arabic  Rds  Ishberdil),  the  ancient  Pro- 
montoriiim  Ampelusia,  the  north-westmost  point  of  Africa.  The  light- 
house (312  ft.),  built  and  maintained  by  the  European  great  powers,  at 
present  the  only  one  on  the  coast  of  Morocco  (others  are  projected  at 
Melilla,  Casablanca,  Mazagan,  Saffi,  and  Mogador),  is  visible  at  sea  from 
a  distance  of  about  30  M.  Near  it  are  a  signal-station  and  a  meteorological 
station  belonging  to  the  nautical  observatory  of  Hamburg. 

From  the  cape  we  may  ride  along  the  coast  to  the  (2'/2  M.)  Hercules 
Grotto,  where  excellent  grindstones  and  millstones  have  been  quarried 
from  time  immemorial,  or,  in  returning  to  Tangier,  we  may  diverge  from 
the  Bubana  Valley  to  visit  the  Olive  Groves,  between  the  Jews'  River 
and  the  Fez  road  (see  below). 


13.  From  Tangier  to  Tetuan  (Ceuta). 

The  journey  to  Tetn&n,  about  37  M.,  may  be  performed  (on  horseback 
or  by  mule)  in  one  day,  but  travellers  wishing  to  break  their  journey 
may  spend  a  night  at  a  fondak  (see  below)  where,  considering  the  rough 
accommodation,  it  is  best  to  camp  outside  (tents  and  camping-utensils 
should  be  taken  from  Tangier).  An  escort  is  advisable.  Or  we  may  go 
to  Tetuan  by  a  steamer  of  the  Bland  Line  (usually  on  Sat.  even.,  in  8  hrs. ; 
$  4),  and  return  thence  to  Tangier  or  Gibraltar  by  the  Navigation  Mixte 
(p.  123;  every  second  Tues.;  agent  at  Tetuan,  Salvador  Hassan).  From 
Tangier  to  Ceuta  direct  there  is  a  weekly  steamer  (on  Thurs.)  of  the 
Vapores  C'orreos  de  Africa.  For  the  excursion  to  Ceuta  a  passport  vise" 
by  the  Spanish  consul  at  Tangier  or  Tetuan  is  required.  A  local  boat 
crosses  daily  from  Ceuta  to  Algeciras  (p.  56)  in  2  hrs. 

From  the  Outer  Market  we  follow  the  Fez  road  (PI.  0, 3-5 ;  Camino 
de  Fez)  to  theS.,  passing  at  some  distance  from  the  stone  huts  of  the 
Berber  villages  (Dadr)  in  the  fertile  hill-country  of  the  province 
of  El-Fahs.  Nearing  the  village  of  Ain-Dalia,  we  pass  below  it, 
ride  to  the  S.E.  in  view  of  the  steep  peak  of  Jebel  Zinat,  crowned 
with  the  ruined  house  of  Raisuli,  and  ascend  in  the  fertile  valley 
of  the  Wdd  Marhar  (Tahaddart).  Here,  on  the  right,  beyond 
the  hills  inhabited  by  the  Berber  tribe  of  the  Beni  Msaur,  we  can 
sometimes  descry  in  clear  weather  the  distant  Jebel  Mula/i  Abd 
es-Slam  (5742  ft.),  the  most  sacred  mountain  in  N.  Morocco. 

The  track  then  ascends  through  remains  of  cork-tree  forest  in 
the  beautiful  hill-region  of  the  Wdd  Rds.  At  the  top  of  the  pass 
(1476  ft.),  the  watershed  between  the  Atlantic  and  the  Mediter- 
ranean, stands  the  fondak  of  A'in  el-Jedida,  the  largest  caravan- 
serai in  N.  Morocco  (comp.  above).  The  roof-terrace  commands  a 
fine  view  of  the  hills  around. 

The  track,  which  soon  affords  a  beautiful  *View  of  Tetuan, 
now  descends  the  stony  slope  to  the  E.  into  the  valley  of  the  River 
Martin,  a  stream  rising  on  the  Jebel  MulaY  Abd  es-Slam. 


TETUAN.  *«■  Route.     103 

Tetudn  (197  ft.;  Hot.  Dersa,  pens.  10  p.;  Ilot.  Calpe,  R.  3, 
pens.  10  p.,  plain  but  good;  Hot.  Victoria,  pens.  6-8  p.;  Brit,  vice- 
cons.,  W.S.  Bewicke),  Arabic.  Titawdn,  Berber  Tettawen,  an  inter- 
esting town,  containing  among  its  30,450  inhab.  6000  Jews,  400 
Spaniards,  and  about  500  immigrants  from  Algeria,  lies  7  M.  from 
the  Mediterranean  and  above  the  left  bank  of  the  River  Martin,  not 
far  from  the  ancient  Roman  Thamuda.  The  garden-like  environs 
are  fertile  and  well  watered.  With  its  numerous  minarets,  its 
domed  tombs  of  saints,  its  town-walls  garnished  with  many  towers, 
and  its  loftily  placed  citadel  (Kasba)  overshadowed  on  the  N.  by 
the  red  sandstone  rocks  of  the  Jebel  Dersa,  it  presents  a  most 
charming  picture  of  an  Oriental  town  entirely  free  from  European 
disfigurement.  The  narrow,  winding  streets  recall  the  ancient  part 
of  Cordova,  and  the  colonnaded  courts  of  the  externally  plain 
Moorish  houses  resemble  the  patios  of  Seville  (p.  61).  In  the  more 
regularly  built  Mellah  (Jewish  quarter)  one  is  often  struck  with 
the  beauty  of  the  Jewish  girls  and  the  women's  gold-embroidered 
festive  attire.  Some  parts  of  the  town  still  show  traces  of  the 
Spanish  siege  of  1S59-60,  which  gained  for  the  victorious  Marshal 
O'Donnell  the  title  of  'Duke  of  Tetuan'. 

The  graves  in  the  Jewish  Cemetery  are  sometimes  not  unlike 
the  anthropoid  sarcophagi  of  the  Phoenicians  (comp.  p.  347). 

The  old  Portuguese  Watch  Toioer  at  Kilallin  affords  a  superb 
panorama. 

The  mouth  of  the  River  Martin,  which  is  much  choked  with  sand, 
forms  the  harbour  of  Tetuan,  but  sea-going  vessels  have  to  anchor 
in  the  open  roads.    The  trade  of  the  place  is  unimportant. 

A  coast-road  was  constructed  by  the  Spaniards  during  the  Morocco 
campaign,  connecting  Tetuan  with  Ceuta  (23  M.),  but  'now  only  a  track 
remains.  It  leads  at  first  through  the  coast-plain  at  the  E.  base  of  Jebel 
Dersa  (see  above),  and  then,  beyond  the  Cabo  Negro  or  Cape  Negron 
(886  ft.;  Arabic  Mas  ct-Tarf),  skirts  the  fertile  spurs  of  the  Avjera  Mts. 
Beyond  the  Moroccan  frontier  guard-house,  we  enter  Spanish  territory, 
protected  by  a  chain  of  block-houses,  and  skirt  the  E.  slope  of  the  Jurassic 
Sierra  BMones  or  Apes'  Hill  (2809  ft.;  Arabic  Jebel  Mi'tsa,  i.e.  Hill  of 
Moses),  where  apes  abound.  This  is  the  highest  peak  of  the  Anjera  Mts. 
and  was  famed  in  antiquity  as  one  of  the  pillars  of  Hercules  (p.  54). 

Ceuta  (several  small  Spanish  inns;  no  photographing  allowed),  Arabic 
Sebta,  a  town  of  10,000  inhab.  (of  whom  3000  are  soldiers),  the  only  im- 
portant Spanish  possession  in  Morocco  besides  Melilla  (p.  124),  lies  on  a 
narrow,  flat  tongue  of  land  between  a  spur  of  the  Sierra  Bullones,  crowned 
with  the  white  tomb  of  a  saint,  and  the  strongly  fortified  peninsula  of 
Almiiia,  which  culminates  in  the  Monte  del  Acho  (637  ft.).  Originally 
Phoenician,  it  became  a  Roman  colony,  under  the  name  of  Ad  Septem 
Fratres  (later  Septon  or  Scpita  Emporia),  and  in  the  middle  ages  was  the 
most  important  and  prosperous  seaport  of  N.  Morocco.  In  1169  it  was 
the  seat,  of  a  Genoese  trading  station,  and  in  1115  it  fell  into  the  hands 
of  the  Portuguese,  from  whose  time  date  the  ruins  of  Ceuta  la  Vieja  (old 
Ceuta).  SiDce  1580,  in  spite  of  repeated  attacks  by  the  Moroccans  (1694- 
1720,  1732),  it  has  remained  in  the  uninterrupted  possession  of  Spain, 
and  it  now  presents  a  sadly  decayed  appearance.  The  tunny  and  sardine 
fisheries  here  are  very  thriving. 


104 


14.  Prom  Tangier  to  Mogador  by  Sea. 

411  M.  Steamboats.  1.  Eoyal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Co.  (see  RR.  5, 
4,  3;  often  full  all  the  way  from  London!,  every  other  Friday,  vifl 
Casablanca,  Mazagan,  and  Saffi  to  Mogador  in  5  days  (agents  at  Tangier, 
Eug.  Chappory;  at  Casablanca  and  Saffi,  Murdoch,  Butler,  &Co.;  at  Ma- 
zagan, J.  dc  Maria;  and  at  Mogador,  R.  Yuly  &  Co.).  —  2.  Oldenburg- 
Portuguese  Line  fortnightly  to  Mogador,  calling  at  intermediate  ports 
(agents  at  Tangier  and  Larash,  Renschhausen  &Co.;  at  Rabat,  Weickert 
&  Enke;  at  Casablanca  and  Saffi,  Lamb  Bros.;  at  Mazagan,  Ch.  Balestrino; 
at  Mogador,  Borgeaud,  Reutemann,  &  Co.).  —  3.  JV.  Paquet  &  Co.  (p.  120), 
Monday  evenings  (returning  on  Frid.),  to  Rabat,  intermediate  ports,  and 
Mogador  in  4  days.  —  4.  Vapores  Correos  de  Africa  twice  monthly  to 
Mogador  via  Larash,  Rabat,  Casablanca,  Mazagan,  and  Saffi  in  5>/2  days. 
There  are  also  the'small  cargo-boats  of  the  Genoese  Servizio  Itcdo-Spagnuolo, 
of  Rius  <£■  Torres  of  Barcelona,  and  others.  The  small  boats  of  the  Bland 
Line  ply  between  Tangier  and  Larash  once  or  twice  weekly.  The  Canary 
Line  of  the  Compaflia  Trasatldntica  touches  once  monthly  at  Tangier  (if 
required  also  at  Casablanca  and  Mazagan).- — Landing  and  embarkation  in 
lighters  at  most  of  the  intermediate  ports  is  often  impracticable  for  weeks 
together,  especially  in  winter.  Harbours  are  in  course  of  construction  at 
Larash  and  Casablanca,  and  one  at  Saffi  is  projected.  — Tangier,  Rabat, 
Casablanca,  and  Mogador  have  wireless  telegraph  stations. 

Along  the  Ocean  Seaboard  of  Morocco  (about  835  M.  to 
Cape  Juby)  navigation  is  often  impeded  by  gales,  sandbanks,  and 
fogs.  The  seaports  lie  mostly  at  the  mouths  of  rivers  or  in  small 
and  shallow  open  bays. 

The  Steamers  round  the  sandstone  rocks  of  Cape  S])artel 
(p.  102)  and  steer  to  the  S.W.,  at  some  distance  from  the  land,  above 
which  in  clear  weather  are  seen  the  RifMts.,  with  the  Jebel  Habib 
(2990  ft.)  and  the  Jebel  Mulai  Abd  es-Slam  (p.  102). 

In  the  coast-plain  of  El-Gharbia  we  next  observe,  on  a  terrace 
abraded  by  the  sea,  the  decayed  little  seaport-town  of  Arzila,  the 
Phoenician  Zilis,  Rom.  Culonia  Zllis  Constantia,  with  a  ruinous 
town-wall  of  the  Portuguese  period. 

Beyond  the  Haffet  el-Beida,  a  spur  of  the  hill-region  of  Saliel, 
once  famed  for  its  cork-tree  groves  and  its  fertility,  we  near  the 
broad  mouth  of  the  Lulckus  or  El-Kus,  the  Lix  of  antiquity,  and 
obtain  a  splendid  view  of  the  white  sandstone  walls  and  the  castel- 
lated Kasba  of  Larash. 

Larash,  also  called  Larache  or  Laraiche,  Arabic  El-Ara'ish 
(Hot.  Lukkus,  on  the  river-bank ;  landing  or  embarkation  1  p. ;  Brit, 
vice-cons.,  L.  Fordel.  a  somewhat  dirty  town  of  13,220  inhab.  (incl. 
3000  Jews  and  200  Europeans),  one  of  the  chief  seaports  of  Morocco, 
lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Lukkus,  about  100  ft.  above  the  river. 
The  total  exports  and  imports  are  valued  at  18  million  francs.  In 
the  16th  cent,  the  town  was  an  important  Portuguese  centre  of  trade, 
and  in  1580-1689  it  belonged  to  Spain.  It  then  became  a  war- 
harbour  and  the  headquarters  of  the  pirates  of  Morocco,  and  was 
fruitlessly  attacked  by  the  French  in  their  disastrous  expedition 


RABAT.  t*.  Route.     105 

of  1765,  and  by  an  Austrian  squadron  in  1829.  The  former  harbour, 
which  was  rendered  inaccessible  to  vessels  of  larger  draught  by  the 
bar  obstructing  it  and  the  shallowness  of  the  river-mouth,  is  being 
superseded  by  a  new  harbour  now  under  construction.  The  town- 
walls,  the  moats,  the  coast-batteries,  and  the  small  fortifications  on 
the  S.  bank  of  the  river  date  from  the  Spanish  occupation. 

From  the  landing-place  on  the  N.E.  margin  of  the  town  we 
pass  through  the  harbour -gate  into  the  spacious  Inner  Market 
(Suk  ed-Dakhl),  with  the  old  Spanish  Merchants'  Hall  (Fondak 
el-Essbenyoli)  and  arcades  lined  with  shops.  Gateways  lead  thence 
to  the  N.W.  to  the  picturesque  Kasha  (no  admission) ,  and  to  the 
S.E.  to  the  Government  Palace  (Dar  el-Makhzen).  The  Chief 
Mosque  was  once  the  Spanish  cathedral,  and  several  of  the  dwell- 
ing-houses are  still  Spanish  in  character. 

Outside  the  Bab  el-Khemis  lies  the  extensive  Outer  Market 
(Thurs.).  Excellent  oranges  and  other  fruit  are  grown  in  the  beau- 
tiful gardens  around. 

Some  Roman  ruins,  relics  of  the  old  town  of  Lixzts  (p.  95),  now 
overgrown  with  brushwood,  lie  on  the  Jebel  Tshemmish,  a  low  hill  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Lukkus,  about  l'/2  hr.  from  Larash  (best  reached 
by  boat). 

As  the  Steamer  proceeds  there  appears  on  the  horizon  a  range 
of  sand-hills,  31  M.  long,  which  separates  the  Sebu  bay  from  the 
sea.  This  bay  (p.  93)  is  now  dry  land,  with  the  exception  of  two 
shallow  lakes  (Merja  ez-Zerga  and  Merja  Eds  ed-Dora)  and 
large  tracts  of  swamp.  To  the  E.  rises  the  Jebel  Sarsar  (1805  ft.), 
near  Ksar  el-Kebir.  On  the  left  bank  of  the  Sebu  (ancient  Subur), 
near  the  Mamora  Forest,  the  largest  plantation  of  cork-trees  in 
Morocco,  lies  Mehedia  or  Mchdiya  (pop.  500),  a  thriving  seaport 
during  the  sway  of  the  Almohades,  but  now  fallen  to  utter  decay. 
A  fine  Moorish  town-gate  of  the  12th  cent,  and  many  ruins  of  the 
Portuguese  period  may  be  visited. 

Rabat  (Hot.  Tgnace,  R.  2,  pens.  10  fr.,  Hot.  Alegria,  Spanish, 
both  unpretending;  Brit,  vice-cons.,  A.  H.  Cross;  Engl.  Church  ser- 
vice), or  Rbdt,  situated  in  the  Tell  (p.  93)  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Bu  Regreg,  138  M.  from  Tangier,  is  one  of  the  sultan's  residences 
and  vies  with  Tctuan  (p.  102)  as  a  most  interesting  coast-town.  Its 
population  together  with  that  of  Salee  (p.  106)  is  47,140  inhab., 
incl.  3000  Jews  and  100  Europeans.  As  it  is  the  'key  of  Morocco', 
where  the  caravan  routes  from  Tangier,  Fez,  and  Casablanca  (Ma- 
rakesh)  converge,  and  is  also  exposed  to  the  attacks  of  the  turbu- 
lent inland  tribes  of  the  Zemm&r  and  Za'ir,  it  has  been  fortified 
with  an  inner  and  two  outer  walls.  A  Fort,  built  in  1888-92,  de- 
fends the  entrance  to  the  harbour,  now  much  choked  with  sand. 
The  difficulty  of  landing  (charge  for  each  passenger  21/2  p.)  has 
caused  the  trade  of  the  place  (imports  and  exports  about  8  million 


106     Route  14.  RABAT.  From  Tangier 

francs)  to  decline  and  to  fall  behind  that  of  Tangier,  Larash,  and 
Mogador.  Several  of  the  industries  have  long  been  famous  (carpet- 
making,  wool-weaving,  woodwork,  saffian  leather,  etc.). 

Founded  in  1197,  opposite  to  Salee  (see  below),  by  the  Almohade 
Yakiib  ibn  Yfisuf  (p.  61),  the  still  prosperous  town  is  noted  for 
its  well-educated  population,  mostly  Moorish,  and  its  genuine 
Moroccan  character.  The  dwelling-houses,  in  the  Andalusian- 
Moorish  style,  vie  in  their  internal  architecture  with  those  of 
Tetuan.  Noteworthy  are  also  the  old  town-gates,  the  portal  of  the 
Kasba,  with  the  barracks  of  the  Udaia,  and  the  decayed  Medersa 
(school  of  the  learned),  with  its  picturesque  colonnaded  *Court. 
At  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  town,  not  far  from  the  harbour-gate  and 
the  Mohammedan  cemetery,  is  the  Mellah  or  Jews'  quarter. 

Outside  the  Bdb  el-Hdd,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  inner  town- 
wall,  is  the  Jewish  burial-ground,  adjoining  the  SUk  el-Hdd,  or 
Sunday  market,  the  most  important  cattle-market  in  the  whole 
country,  supplied  chiefly  by  the  Zemmfir,  Zai'r,  and  Zaian  tribes. 
—  On  the  terrace  of  the  coast,  by  the  W.  outer  wall  (reached  also 
from  the  Bab  el-Alfi  by  the  road  past  the  Christian  cemetery), 
stands  the  handsome,  but  now  disused  sultan's  palace  of  El-Kebibdt. 

Beyond  the  Jews'  quarter,  and  not  far  from  the  *Bab  Shellah 
(1178-84)  with  its  two  octagonal  towers,  we"  see  rising  amidst 
orchards,  above  the  Bu  Ecgreg,  the  conspicuous  *Hassan  Toiver, 
the  great  landmark  of  Rabat.  This  was  once  the  minaret  of  a 
mosque,  erected,  according  to  tradition,  by  Jabir  (p.  62)  for  Ya- 
kfib  ibn  Yfisuf  in  1197,  but  now  entirely  destroyed  saving  a  few 
columns  and  fragments  of  masonry.  The  unfinished  tower,  with 
its  notched  arches  and  ornamentation  in  relief  style,  is  145  ft.  high. 

About  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  town,  near  the  outer  walls,  is  the 
Ddr  el-Makhzen,  a  second  palace  of  the  sultan,  with  the  burial- 
mosque  of  Mohammed  XVII.  and  Mulal'  Hassan  (1873-94),  and 
a  beautiful  garden. 

Near  this  is  the  S.E.  outer  gateway.  Among  the  neighbouring 
hills,  beyond  a  small  Mohammedan  burial-ground,  is  a  walled  and 
turreted  square  enclosing  the  ancient  town  of  * Shellah,  the  mould- 
ering ruins  of  which  are  overgrown  with  rank  vegetation;  we  find 
here  an  excellent  well.  In  the  dilapidated  burial-mosque  repose 
the  Almohade  Abfi  Yakfib  (p.  61),  the  Merinide  Ali  V.  (d.  1351), 
and  other  sovereigns.  —  A  little  way  off,  on  the  S.  margin  of  the 
swampy  and  malarious  river-flats,  are  famous  orange-gardens. 

A  ferry  connects  Rabat  with  the  antiquated  town  of  Salee, 
Saleh,  or  Sid,  the  Sola  of  the  Carthaginians  and  Romans,  which, 
down  to  recent  times,  was  like  Larash  one  of  the  most  dreaded 
haunts  of  pirates  ('Salee  rovers')  and  one  of  the  worst  slave-mark- 
ets in  all  Morocco.  The  town  shows  every  sign  of  decay;  but  its 
gates,  especially  the  Bab  el-Ausera  (now  walled  up),  with  its  two 


to  Mogador.  CASABLANCA.  !*■  Route.     107 

towers,  the  ruinous  gate  of  the  cemetery,  and  the  domed  tombs  of 
saints,  all  present  a  most  fascinating  architectural  picture. 

Proceeding  on  her  course  the  Steamer  skirts  a  monotonous, 
treeless  coast,  broken  only  by  the  mouths  of  a  few  small  rivers, 
with  here  and  there  a  poor  village.  One  of  these  villages  is 
Fedalah  (in  the  middle  ages  Afdalah),  once  a  thriving  little 
seaport,  which  was  temporarily  occupied  by  the  Spaniards  in  1773. 
On  a  headland  much  exposed  to  N.  winds,  190  M.  from  Tangier, 
lies  — 

Casablanca.  —  Passengers  are  conveyed  from  the  steamers,  which 
anchor  in  the  open  roads  to  the  N.E.  of  the  town,  to  the  new  quay  hy 
hoat  (2'/»  P-  each  person). 

Hotels.  Hot.  Central,  R.  4-5,  B.  1,  D.  2,  pens.  10-12  fr.,  Hot.  de 
France,  pens.  8-10  fr.,  both  goodj  Hot.  Moderne,  pens.  8-10  fr.;  Hot.  de 
VUnivers;  Hot.  de  V Europe;  Hot.  Continental;  Hot.  de  Ctiba,  outside 
the  town,  Spanish. 

Consuls.  British,  A.  M.  Madden;  vice-consuls,  E.  G.  Lomas, 
K.  H.  Broome.  —  United  States  Consular  Agent,  H.  Toel. 

English  Church.  St.  John  the  Evangelist's,  outside  the  town;  service 
every  Sun.  at  11  a.m. 

Casablanca,  Arabic  Ddr  el-JBeicla  ('the  white  house'),  a  town 
of  31,700  inhab.  (incl.  2500  French  and  as  many  Spaniards),  was 
founded  in  the  16th  cent,  by  the  Portuguese  as  Casa  Branca  on 
the  ruins  of  the  ancient  (Phoenician ?)  town  of  Anfa.  The  place 
appears  in  mediaeval  Venetian  charts  as  Niffe  or  Anafe,  but  it 
was  abandoned  by  the  Moors  in  1468.  The  town  was  destroyed  in 
1755  by  an  earthquake  simultaneous  with  that  of  Lisbon;  it  was 
not  rebuilt  till  the  19th  cent.,  and  is  now  the  most  important  outlet 
in  the  country  for  Moroccan  commodities  (exports  and  imports  in 
1909  ca.  25^2  million  fr.).  To  this  centre  are  brought  cattle  from 
the  neighbouring  provinces,  from  the  remoter  districts  of  Tadla 
(or  Tedla),  and  from  the  steppes  of  the  Central  Atlas,  while  the 
fertile  region  of  Shauya  supplies  it  with  grain  and  wool.  Thanks 
to  the  peace  and  security  which  the  French  troops  of  occupation 
have  restored  trade  has  steadily  increased. 

The  town,  which  is  still  enclosed  by  a  wall  of  defence  built  in 
the  Portuguese  period,  lies  on  a  terrace  of  Devonian  sandstone 
(E.  side)  and  slate  (W-  side),  in  which  the  surf  has  worn  a  small 
shallow  bay.  The  harbour  thus  formed  is  to  be  protected  by  a 
breakwater  (in  course  of  construction)  which  will  make  landing 
and  embarking  in  all  weathers  possible  (comp.  above).  —  From  the 
harbour  we  pass  through  the  "Waterport  Gate  into  the  main  street 
of  the  Medina  or  Mohammedan  business  quarter.  Most  of  the  for- 
eign consulates  and  banks  and  the  international  Anfa  Club  are 
situated  in  this  street.  Just  off  it  are  the  British  Consulate  and 
the  British  Post  Office,  while  higher  up  is  the  new  French  post- 
office.  The  Mcllah,  or  Jewish  quarter,  lies  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town. 


10B     Route  14.  MAZAGAN.  From  Tangier 

Near  the  Bab  es-Sfik,  or  S.E.  gate,  is  the  *  Market  (Suk;  comp. 
p.  335),  and  a  little  beyond  it  are  the  warehouses  of  the  foreign 
merchants. 

In  the  W.  quarter  (Tnaquer),  which  down  to  1907  consisted  chiefly 
of  the  reed-huts  of  the  lower-class  workmen,  similar  to  those  outside  the 
S.W.  gate  (Bab  Marakesh),  modern  stone  dwellings  have  sprung  up  and 
public  grounds  also  have  been  laid  out.  Farther  out  are  the  wooden  bar- 
racks of  the  French  and  Spanish  troops  of  occupation.  On  the  low  hills 
to  the  E.  and  S.E.  are  the  new  French  forts  'Provost'  and  'Ihler'. 

A  considerable  way  beyond  Casablanca  the  Steamer  passes  the 
mouth  of  the  Um  er-Rebia  (see  below),  on  the  left  bank  of  which 
is  Asiinnifir,  and  a  little  farther  on  it  casts  anchor  in  the  open 
roads  of  Mazagan,  far  outside  the  little  harbour,  which  dates  from 
the  Portuguese  period.    (Landing  or  embarkation  3  p.) 

Mazagan  (Hot.  de  l'Univers,  pens.  6-8  fr. ;  Hot.  du  Commerce, 
same  charges;  Brit,  vice-cons.,  T.  G.  Spinney;  pop.  25,500,  incl. 
3000  Jews  and  about  500  Europeans),  formerly  called  El-Brija 
by  the  Moroccans,  now  El- Jedida  ('the  new'),  250  M.  from  Tangier, 
lies  on  a  terrace  on  the  W.  shore  of  a  large  bay  which  is  now  much 
choked  with  sand.  It  was  founded  by  the  Portuguese  in  1506,  held 
by  them  down  to  1769,  and  was  their  last  possession  in  Morocco; 
but  it  long  remained  a  place  of  no  importance.  The  old  town,  square 
in  shape,  protected  from  the  surf  by  a  chain  of  cliffs,  and  altered 
after  1769,  is  still  enclosed  by  its  Portuguese  wall  of  defence, 
which  is  29  ft.  thick  at  places.  Several  houses  bearing  Portuguese 
coats-of-arms  and  the  Palace  of  the  Inquisition  in  the  N.  angle  of 
the  town  recall  the  Christian  domination.  In  recent  times  Mazagan 
has  developed  into  the  chief  seaport  of  Marakesh.  The  great  Thurs- 
day market,  held  on  the  W.  side  of  the  town,  and  the  granaries  on 
the  S.  side  afford  an  idea  of  the  extent  of  its  trade  (imports  and 
exports  being  estimated,  when  crops  are  good,  at  20  million  fr.  per 
annum).  The  climate  is  considered  very  healthy. 

The  alcanna  shrub  (Lawsonia  inermis)  abounds  in  the  environs.  From 
its  leaves  is  prepared  the  brownish-red  henna,  used  for  colouring  the 
finger-nails.  This  ancient  custom  still  prevails  among  both  Mohammedans 
and  Jews  in  N.  Africa. 

Excursions.  The  picturesquely  situated  town  of  Azimirttir,  about 
12'/2  M.  to  the  E.,  lies  on  the  Um  er-Rebia  or  Morbeya,  the  Asama  of 
antiquity,  a  stream  which  separates  the  Shauya  region  from  the  Dukkala 
The  town,  with  its  10,000  inhab.,  incl.  1000  Jews,  contains  the  shrine  ol 
Mulai  bu  Shai'b,  much  visited  by  pilgrims,  and  is  environed  with  beautiful 
gardens  of  pomegranates,  oranges,  and  figs.  On  the  same  river  lie  the 
orange-groves  of  Mhiula.  —  To  the  S.W.  one  may  ride  along  the  coast, 
past  the  Zduya  Mulai  Abdallah  and  the  ruins  of  the  Eoman  town  of  Tit, 
to  Cabo  Blanco  (see  below). 

Leaving  Mazagan  we  pass  the  Cabo  Blanco  (230  ft.;  Arabic 
Jerf  el-Asfdr)  and  then  the  Walediya  Lake,  ca.  40  M.  long. 
Farther  on,  from  the  abrupt  coast  juts  out  Cape  Cantin  (450  ft.; 
Arabic  Rds  el-HUdik),  well  known  to  mariners  as  a  landmark, 
whence  the  coast  runs  S.  to  the  Tensift  (p.  109).  We  call  next  at — 


to  Moaador.  SAFFI.  1 4.  Route.      109 

Saffl  (Hot.  Llamas;  Brit,  vice-cons.,  G.  B.  Hunot;  pop.  19,750, 
incl.  2500  Jews),  called  also  Safi  or  Asfi,  350  M.  from  Tangier.  The 
harbour  is  inadequately  sheltered  from  the  W.  and  S.W.  gales  by  a 
narrow  neck  of  land  and  two  cliffs,  and  its  entrance  is  obstructed 
by  a  sandbank.  (Landing  or  embarkation  1  p.)  Saffi  is  the  capital 
of  the  fertile  region  of  Abda,  noted  for  its  horse-breeding,  and 
girdled  with  black  soil  (comp.  p.  93)  fertile  to  a  breadth  of  37  M. 
at  places.  It  lies  picturesquely  on  a  lofty  chalk  plateau,  in  an 
almost  semicircular  bay,  amidst  woods  and  green  pastures,  but  is 
haunted  by  fever  in  summer.  Prior  to  the  foundation  of  Mazagan 
and  Mogador  it  was  the  chief  port  of  Marakesh,  and  like  Agadir 
(p.  110)  was  one  of  the  most  important  harbours  of  S.  Morocco,  but 
its  trade,  mostly  in  European  hands,  has  now  fallen  off  (total  about 
10  million  francs).  The  chief  industry  of  the  place,  which  has 
given  its  name  to  Saffian  leather,  is  now  the  manufacture  of  pottery. 

Close  to  the  harbour  lies  the  Jeivish  Quarter,  and  behind  it 
is  the  Medina  or  Mohammedan  quarter,  both  squalid.  Adjoining 
the  latter  is  the  Spanish  Catholic  church.  The  picturesque  Citadel 
at  the  E.  end  of  the  old  town  and  the  town-walls  are  of  Portuguese 
origin.    The  Sflk,  or  market,  is  in  the  S.  suburb  of  Rabbtit. 

The  Steamer  next  sights,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Te?isift,  the 
Jcbel  el-Hadid  (2182ft.;  'iron-mountain';  p.  110),  already  famed 
in  Punic  times  for  its  iron-ore,  the  only  considerable  hill  on  the 
coast  between  this  and  Mogador.  The  vessel  rounds  Cape  Hadid, 
the  S.  limit  of  the  fertile  coast-plain,  sighting  in  the  distance  the 
spurs  of  the  Great  Atlas  (p.  93),  and  soon  reaches  (410  M.  from 
Tangier;  landing  or  embarkation  2lj2  p.)  the  seaport  of — 

Mogador  (Hot.  Royal,  English;  Palm  Tree  Hotel,  21/.,  M.  to 
the  S.  of  the  town,  prettily  situated,  good;  Brit,  vice-cons.,  H.  B. 
Johnstone;  U.S.  cons,  agent,  G.  Broome;  Engl.  Church  service), 
called  in  Arabic  Es-Sue'ira  also,  with  24,350  inhab.,  incl.  12,000 
Jews  and  a  good  many  French,  English,  Spanish,  and  other  Euro- 
peans. The  new  town  with  its  straight  lines  of  streets  was  erected 
in  1760-70  under  Sultan  Mula'i  Sidi  Mohammed  on  the  site  of 
Mogator,  which  was  destroyed  in  1755  by  the  same  earthquake  as 
that  of  Lisbon.  In  1844  the  town  was  stormed  by  French  marines. 
Mogador  lies  in  31°  31'  N.  lat.  and  9°  GO'  W.  long.,  on  a  flat  spit 
of  land,  bounded  on  the  W.  by  a  small  lake,  beyond  which  rises 
a  great  range  of  sand-hills,  at  places  427  ft.  high  and  3!/4  M.  in 
breadth.  To  the  S.W.  a  chain  of  cliffs  and  the  rocky  islet  of  Mog- 
ador, the  only  island  on  the  coast  of  Morocco,  form  the  harbour, 
which  is  much  exposed  to  the  sea-winds.  The  N.  entrance  to  the 
harbour,  between  the  town  and  the  island,  is  about  825  yds.  broad 
and  45  ft.  deep;  the  broad  S.  entrance,  opposite  the  mouth  of  the 
Wdd  Kaeb,  is  only  13  ft.  in  depth.    Mogador  serves  as  a  port  for 


HO     Route  14.  MOGADOR. 

the  adjacent  provinces  of  Shi&dma  (or  Shedma),  Haha,  and  Mtuga, 
as  well  as  a  mart  for  goods  from  the  Siis  (see  below).  It  is  the 
stronghold  of  Judaism  in  Morocco,  as  the  Jews  control  the  inland 
trade  with  Marakesh,  and  it  is  only  of  late  that  they  have  had  Eu- 
ropean rivals  in  the  ocean  traffic.  The  total  exports  and  imports 
amount  to  about  17  million  francs. 

We  land  not  far  from  the  Harbour  Battery,  mounted  with  an- 
tiquated guns,  and  proceed  first  to  the  Kasha  quarter,  where  tl  e 
governor's  house,  the  chief  mosque,  a  synagogue,  and  the  Spanish 
church  are  situated.  From  the  Meshwar,  the  principal  square  in 
the  Kasba,  a  broad  street  leads  to  the  Medina,  the  Mohammedan 
quarter,  where  a  number  of  Europeans  and  wealthy  Jews  also 
reside.  Here,  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  is  the  Silk,  famed  for  the 
native  copper  wares,  besides  various  goods  from  Marakesh,  which 
are  sold  there.  Beyond  the  market,  in  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  town, 
is  the  Mellah,  an  extremely  dirty  quarter,  with  narrow  streets, 
inhabited  by  the  poorer  Jews. 

From  the  Bab  Marakesh,  the  S.E.  gate,  we  may  follow  the  conduit, 
at  first  along  the  embankment  between  the  bay  of  the  harbour  and  the 
lake,  and  then  past  the  Kubba  of  Sidi  Mogdul,  the  local  saint,  to  the 
winding  valley  of  the  Wdd  Kseb.  Here  rises  a  ruinous  Palace  of  the 
Sultan,  and  beyond  the  sand-hills  lies  the  sadly  neglected  Sultan's 
Garden. 

The  finest  point  in  the  wooded  inland  region  near  Mogador,  which 
abounds  in  game,  is  the  valley  of  A'in  el-Hajar  ('rock-spring'),  15>/2  M. 
to  the  N.E.  From  the  Bab  Asfi,  the  N.E.  town-gate,  the  route  leads 
past  the  Christian  and  the  large  Jewish  cemeteries,  and  follows  tbe  Saffi 
caravan-track  along  the  coast,  where  at  low  tide  it  is  pleasanter  to  ride 
on  the  beach.  After  about  2  hrs.  we  cross  the  hill  to  the  E.,  where  in 
the  extensive  growth  of  underwood  are  seen  numerous  argan-trees 
(Argania  sideroxylon),  the  kernels  of  whose  fruit  yield  a  table-oil  re- 
sembling that  of  the  olive.  —  From  Ain  el-Hajar  we  may  in  clear  weather 
ascend  the  Jebel  el-Hadid  (p.  109),  which  rises  to  theN.;  on  the  summit 
(2182  ft.)  is  a  chapel  dedicated  to  Sidi  Yalcub,  whence  in  the  far  distance 
we  may  descry  the  Great  Atlas. 

To  the  S.  of  Mogador  lies  the  hilly  region  of  Haha,  skirting  the 
base  of  the  Great  Atlas,  and  rich  in  olives  and  argan-trees,  through  which 
a  rough  caravan-route,  running  inland  from  Cape  Tafetneh  and  passing 
Cape  Gir,  leads  to  Ag&dir  (pop.  2500).  This  was  formerly  the  seaport 
for  the  region  of  Siis  (p.  94),  and  was  even  the  goal  of  caravans  from 
the  Sudan  district,  but  since  the  building  of  Mogador  has  lost  all  European 
trade.  In  the  16th  cent.  Agadir,  under  the  name  of  Santa  Cruz,  was  the 
southmost  possession  of  the  Portuguese  in  Morocco. 


V.   SEA  ROUTES  IN  THE  WESTERN 
MEDITERRANEAN. 


Route  Page 

15.  From  Gibraltar  to  Genoa    ....          ....  Ill 

a.  Through  the  Balearic  Sea  .     .  .     .  .111 

b.  Via  Algiers 117 

16.  From  Gibraltar  to  Naples 118 

17.  From  (Lisbon)  Tangier,  and  from  Gibraltar,  to  Mar- 

seilles    119 

18.  From  Tangier  and  Cartagena  to  Orau 123 

19.  From  Marseilles  to  Orau 126 

20.  From  Marseilles  to  Algiers,  Bougie,  Philippeville, 

and  Bona 126 

21.  From  Marseilles  to  Tunis   ....          ....  128 

22.  From  Algiers  to  Tunis  by  Sea      .     .          ....  130 

23.  From  Marseilles  to  Naples 132 

24.  From  Genoa  to  Naples 134 

25.  From  Genoa  to  Tunis  via  Leghorn  and  Cagliari  .     .  142 

26.  From  Naples  to  Tunis  via  Palermo 146 

27.  From  Naples  to  Syracuse  (Malta,  Tunis,  Tripoli)  via 

Messina  and  Catania 154 

From  Messina  to  Syracuse,  158. 


15.  From  Gibraltar  to  Genoa. 

a.  Through  the  Balearic  Sea. 

1000  M.  Steamboats  (see  'Gibraltar  Chronicle',  and  coinp.  pp.  53,  114). 
White  Star  Line  (from  New  York  or  Boston),  two  or  three  times  monthly; 
North  German  Lloyd  (from  Southampton),  monthly;  Cunard  Live  (from 
New  York),  occasionally;  Lloyd  Sabaudo  (from  S.  America),  monthly. 

On  leaving  Gibraltar  (p.  52)  the  steamer  enters  the  open  Med- 
iterranean and  steers  to  the  E.N.E.,  generally  at  an  accelerated 
speed,  as  far  as  Cape  Palos,  owing  to  the  strong  current  flowing 
in  from  the  Atlantic  (p.  5).  Looking  back,  farther  on,  we  enjoy  in 
clear  weather  a  splendid  *View  of  the  Straits,  and  especially  of  the 
coast  of  Morocco  from  Cape  Spartel  to  the  Punla  de  la  Almina 
(p.  123),  from  which  peep  the  white  houses  of  Ceuta.  The  Rif  Mts. 
(Jebel  Beni  Hassan,  p.  123)  also  remain  visible  for  a  time. 

The  Spanish  coast  with  the  Sierra  Bermeja,  the  Sierra  de 
Mijas,  and  thePunta de  Calaburras  (lighthouse)  gradually  recedes 

Basdekxb's  Mediterranean.  8 


112     Route  16.  BALEARIC  ISLANDS.         From  Gibraltar 

Far  away  to  the  left  is  the  bay  of  Mdlaga.  Off  Cape  Sacratif, 
with  its  lighthouse,  we  obtain  a  grand  *Vie\v  of  the  Sierra  Nevada 
(p.  49),  in  front  of  which  rise  the  almost  entirely  barren  Sierra 
de  Almijara,  Sierra  Contraviesa,  and  Sierra  de  Gddor.  Near  the 
Punta  del  Sabinal  (lighthouse)  opens  the  broad  semicircular  bay 
of  Almeria;  in  the  foreground  rise  the  bare  hills  of  Cabo  de  Gata 
(1683  ft. ;  lighthouse),  with  the  Puerto  Genovis  beyond. 

Steering  now  to  the  N.E.,  we  pass  the  Punta  de  Loma  Pelada, 
backed  by  the  Frailes  ('monks'),  two  huge  pyramids  of  rock;  then 
the  Mesa  de  Rolddn,  the  bay  of  Cartagena  (p.  125),  the  Cabo 
Tiiloso,  Cape  Palos,  and  the  island  of  Hormiga  Grande,  all  with 
lighthouses.  Nearing  the  Balearic  Islands,  we  may  descry  to  the 
left,  in  very  clear  weather,  the  coast-plain  of  Murcia  and  even  the 
distant  hills  of  Alicante,  as  far  as  Cabo  de  la  Nao  and  Mongd.  The 
vessel  now  steers  round  the  Balearic  Islands  (see  Baedeker's  Spain 
and  Portugal),  on  the  S.E.  side  if  storms  in  the  Gulf  of  Lions  are 
expected,  but  usually  through  the  bay  of  Valencia  and  the  Balearic 
Sea.  In  this  case  we  pass  close  to  the  island  of  Iviza,  which  is 
flanked  on  the  S.W.  (in  front  of  the  Atalayasa  ;  1559  ft.)  by  the 
bold  rocky  islet  of  Vedrd,  and  on  the  W.  by  the  Bleda  Islets  and 
Conejera  (with  a  lighthouse).  On  the  N.E.  point  of  Iviza  is  the 
lighthouse  of  Punta  Grosa.  In  the  foreground,  farther  on,  appear 
the  bold  limestone  slopes  of  the  island  of  Dragonera,  with  a  light- 
house (1191  ft.)  visible  for  40  It.  round.  Beyond  it  is  Mallorca, 
or  Majorca,  the  largest  of  the  Balearic  Islands,  whose  barren 
mountains,  culminating  in  the  Puig  Mayor  (4741  ft.)  in  the  centre, 
are  visible  to  their  full  extent  beyond  the  little  port  of  S oiler. 

From  Cape  Formentor  (lighthouse),  at  the  N.E.  point  of  Ma- 
jorca, the  steamer  proceeds  due  N.E.  to  the  He  du  Levant  or  du 
Titan  (lighthouse,  visible  for  nearly  40  M.  round),  the  eastmost  of 
the  Pes  d'Hyeres  (p.  133),  which  flank  the  coast  of  Provence.  The 
island  of  Porquerolles  also,  the  westmost  of  the  group,  is  visible. 
In  favourable  weather  the  *Voyage  through  the  Ligurian  Sea  affords 
delightful  views.  The  steamers  vary  their  course,  but  usually  steer 
towards  Cape  Ferratnear  Villefranche,  past  Cape  Camarat  (light- 
house), the  beautiful  double  bay  of  Cannes  (with  the  Res  de  Lerins 
opposite  to  it),  and  the  Cap  d'Antibes.  On  a  clear  day  Nice  is  vis- 
ible in  the  distance.  We  then  skirt  the  Riviera  di  Ponente  (p.  118), 
passing  Ventimiglia,  Oneglia,  and  Albenga,  backed  by  the  Maritime 
and  the  Ligurian  Alps,  snow-clad  in  winter  and  spring.  On  the 
picturesque  coast  between  Nice  andBordigherathe  scenery  changes 
rapidly.  After  the  little  bay  of  Villefranche  (Villafranca),  with 
Cape  Ferrat  (lighthouse),  come  Beaulieu,  the  grey  rock  village  of 
Eze,  close  under  the  Grande-Corniche,  and  .La  Turbie,  overtopped  by 
the  forts  behind.  "We  next  sight  the  rock  of  Monaco,  with  its  cathe- 
dral and  huge  marine  museum,  while  among  the  houses  of  the  little 


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to  Genoa.  GENOA.  16.  Route.      H3 

principality  may  be  seen  the  less  conspicuous  casino  of  Monte  Carlo. 
Beyond  the  olive-clad  Cape  Martin  appears  the  bay  of  Mentone, 
with  its  superb  circus  of  mountains,  then  Cape  Mortola,  the  Italian 
frontier-town  of  Ventimiglia,  and,  beyond  the  ravine  of  the  Roja, 
the  little  town  of  Bordighera,  with  its  cape  and  its  dense  olive  and 
palm  groves.  Next  come  Ospcdaletti,  overlooked  by  the  loftily- 
situated  little  town  of  Coldirodi,  and  San  JRemo,  on  a  broad  bay 
bounded  by  Capo  Nero  and  Capo  Verde.  The  coast  is  now  less 
attractive  till  we  are  off  Porto  Maurizio,  a  provincial  capital 
picturesquely  situated  on  a  headland,  and  approach  Oneglia. 

Near  Cape  Berta  we  gradually  leave  the  coast,  pass  Cape  Mele, 
with  its  lighthouse  (742  ft.)  and  Marconi  station  for  wireless  tele- 
graphy, and  steer  across  the  *Gidf  of  Genoa.  On  the  left  lie  Lai- 
gueglia,  Alassio,  and,  beyond  the  fissured  island  of  Gallinaria, 
the  little  town  of  Albenga.  Next,  on  a  semicircular  coast-plain, 
lie  the  villages  of  Loano  and  Finale  Marina,  and  a  little  beyond 
them  rises  the  Capo  di  Noli.  Beyond  Cape  Vado  we  overlook 
the  bay  of  the  industrial  seaport  of  Savona,  as  far  as  the  headland 
of  Portofino  (p.  134).  In  the  background  rise  the  Apennines  and 
the  Apuan  Alps  (p.  134),  snow-capped  in  winter. 

Steering  through  the  Avamparto  and  the  Porto  Nuovo,  we 
obtain  a  superb  *View  of  Genoa,  rising  in  a  semicircle  on  the 
hill-side. 

Genoa.  —  Arrival,  bx  Sea.  The  passenger-steamers  land  at  the 
P&nte  Federico  Giiglielmo  (PI.  A,  B,  3 ;  with  custom-house,  post,  telegraph, 
and  railway  offices)  in  the  Porto  or  inner  harbour.  Failing  room  at  that 
pier,  they  anchor  near  it  (landing  by  boat,  with  luggage,  1  fr. ;  embarka- 
tion 30,  at  night  50  c),  or  they  are  berthed  at  the  Ponte  Andrea  Doria 
(PI.  A,  3).  —  At  the  custom-house  examination  the  facchino  of  the  dogana 
expects  20-30  c. 

Railway  Stations.  1.  Stazione  Piazza  Principe  (PI.  B,  2 ;  Rail. 
Kestaur.,  dcj.  2-3,  D.  3-4  fr.),  in  the  Piazza  Acquaverde,  the  chief  station  for 
all  trains,  where  cabs  (p.  114)  and  omnibuses  are  in  waiting. — 2.  Stazione 
di  Briffnole  or  Orientate  (PI.  H,  I,  6),  the  E.  station,  Piazza  Giuseppe 
Verdi,  a  subsidiary  station  for  Pisa,  Florence,  Rome,  etc.  —  Railway-tickets 
may  be  obtained  also  of  the  Fratelli  Gondrand,  Via  Venti  Settembre  35, 
and  of  Thos.  Cook  &  Son  (p.  114). 

Hotels  (mostly  in  noisy  situations  and  variously  judged).  ♦Grand- 
Hot.  Miramare  (PI.  mi;  A,  2),  Via  Pagano  Doria,  above  the  principal 
station,  with  terrace,  R.  from  6,  D.  6,  omn.  2  f r. ;  Bertolini's  Bristol 
Hot.  (PI.  p;  F,  6),  Via  Venti  Settembre  35,  R.  from  7,  D.  7,  omn.  !»/■  f r. ; 
Gr.-H6t.  de  Genes  (PI.  f ;  E,  5),  R.  from  5,  D.  6-7,  omn.  1  fr. ;  Eden- 
Palace  (PI.  b ;  G,  5),  Via  Serra  6-8,  R.  from  6,  D.  5-7  fr. ;  Gr.-H6t.  Sxvous 
(PI.  sj  C,  2),  above  Piazza  Acquaverde,  R.  from  4,  D.  5-6,  omn.  '/a  f r. ; 
Gr.-H6t.  Isotta  (PI.  a ;  F,  5),  Via  Roma  5-7,  R.  from  5,  D.  6,  omn.  l'/o  fr. 
—  Hot.  de  la  Ville  (PI.  d;  D,  4),  Via  Carlo  Alberto,  R.  from  4,  D.  5, 
omn.  1  fr. ;  Britannia  (PI.  v;  0,  2),  R.  from  3  f r. ;  Modern  Hot.  (PI.  v; 
F,  6),  R.  from  4,  D.  5,  oniu.  1  f r. ;  Continental  (PI.  1;  E,  4),  R.  4-10, 
D.  5,  omn.  l-l'/4  fr.  —  Less  pretending:  H6t.  de  France  (PI.  g;  D,  5), 
R.  3-4,  D.  4,  omn.  1  fr. ;  Hot.  Smith  (PI.  e,  D  5;  Engl,  landlord),  R.  from 
21/s,  D.  4,  omn.  1  fr.,  good;  Central  (PI.  c;  F,  5),  R.  2-4>/2  fr. ;  Royal 
Aqulla  (PI.  k;  C,  2),  near  the  principal  station,  R.  3-5,  D.  5,  omn.  '/«  fr., 

8* 


114     Route  1 6.  GENOA.  Practical  Notet. 

good  for  passing  tourists;  Imperial  (PL  im;  F,  6),  R.  from  3>/2  fr. ;  Regina 
(PL  q;  F,  6).  — Hdtels  Qarnis.  Splendidb  (PL  x;  F,  6),  Bavabia  (PL  z; 
F,  5),  Excelsior  (PL  w;  E,  5),  R.  in  all  these  from  3  or  4  f r. 

Caf6s.  Roma,  Via  Roma  15;  Milano,  Galleria  Mazzini;  both  are  also 
restaurants.  —  Restaurants  (Italian  cookery).  Trattoria  del  Teatro  Carlo 
Felice  (PL  E,  F,  5),  goodj  Cairo,  Via  Venti  Settembre  36;  Ristorante 
delta  Posta,  Galleria  Mazzini,  moderate,  often  crowded.  —  Beer.  Giardino 
d  Italia  and  Peyer,  both  in  Piazza  Corvetto  (PL  F,  G,  5) ;  Gambrinns,  Via 
San  Sebastiano  (PL  F,  5). 

Cabs.  One-horse,  per  drive  (to  the  E.  as  far  as  the  Bisagno,  to  the 
"\V.  to  the  lighthouse)  1,  at  night  Vl2ir.;  per  hr.  2  or  2ll2fr.;  each  addit. 
1I2  hr.  1  or  ll/4  f r. ;  to  Nervi  or  Pegli  5,  there  and  back,  with  l/2  hr.  stay, 
7'/2  fr.  —  With  two  horses,  J/2  fr.  extra  in  each  ease.  —  Night  is  from  9  (in 
winter  from  7)  till  sunrise.  —  Small  packages  inside  cab  are  free;  each 
trunk  20  c.  —  Motor  Cabs  (taximeter)  per  drive  of  1200  met.  (z/3  M.) 
1  fr.  20  c,  each  addit.  800  met.  20  c. ;  at  night  (10  or  8  to  dawn)  one-fourth 
extra.    Trunk  25  c. 

Tramways  (6  or  7  a.m.  till  midnight).  The  chief  lines  are:  1.  Piazza 
Principe  (PL  B,  2),  Piazza  Acquaverde  (PL  B,  C,  2),  Piazza  Zecoa  (PL  D, 
E,  3;  funicular  to  Castellaccio),  Piazza  Corvetto  (PL  F,  G,  5),  and  Piazza 
Deferrari  (PL  E,  6;  10  c).  —  2.  Piazza  Principe,  Piazza  Acquaverde,  Via  di 
Circonvallazione  a  Monte  (station  for  Castellaccio  at  San  Nicol6,  PL  E,  1), 
Piazza  Manin  (PL  I,  4),  Piazza  Corvetto,  and  Piazza  Deferrari  (25  c). — 
3.  Piazza  Caricamento  (PL  D,  5),  Piazza  Principe,  Via  Milano  (PL  A,  2), 
Lighthouse  (p.  117),  San  Pier  d'Arena,  Sestri  Ponente,  and  Pegli  (p.  117; 
55  c.).  —  4.  Piazza  Raibetta  (PL  D,  5),  Via  di  Circonvallazione  a  Mare 
(p.  116),  and  Stazione  Orientate  (PL  H,  I,  G;  10  c). — 5.  Piazza  Deferrari, 
Piazza  Manin,  Via  Montaldo  (PL  I,  1),  and  Campo  Santo  (p.  117;  15  c). — 
6.  Piazza  Deferrari,  Via  Venti  Settembre,  Ponte  Pila  (PL  H,  1, 7),  and  Nervi 
(p.  117  ;  every  1/i  hr.,  in  50  min.,  45  c.) ;  branch  to  the  Lido  d'Albaro  (p.  117), 

Post  Office  (PL  F,  5),  Galleria  Mazzini  (new  building  In  the  Piazza 
Deferrari,  PL  E  6;  see  p.  116),  open  8  a.m.  to  9  p.m.— Telegraph  Office 
(PL  E,  6),  Palazzo  Ducale,  Piazza  Deferrari. 

Steamers.  Canard  Line  (C.  Figoli,  Piazza  San  Marcellino  6),  from  New 
York,  Gibraltar,  and  Genoa  to  Trieste;  White  Star  Line  (Piazza  Annunziata 
18),  to  Naples,  Gibraltar,  and  New  York  or  Boston;  Nederland  Royal  Mail 
(AgenziaOlandese,  Piazza  Deferrari),  from  Southampton  to  Genoa,  Port  Said, 
ana  Batavia;  North  German  Lloyd  (Leupold  Bros.,  Via  Garibaldi  5),  for 
Algiers  and  Gibraltar,  for  Naples  and  Port  Said,  for  Marseilles  and  Bar- 
celona, for  Naples,  Catania,  the  Piraeus,  Smyrna,  Constantinople,  etc; 
Hamburg- American  Line  (Piazza  Annunziata  18),  to  Naples  and  New  York, 
also  excursion-boats;  Societa  Nazionale  (Via  Balbi  40),  for  Naples  and 
New  York  (comp.  R.  24);  also  circular  tours  to  Cagliari,  Tunis,  Tripoli, 
Malta,  Syracuse,  Messina,  Naples,  and  back  to  Genoa  (RR.  25, 64,  27,  24) ;  also 
to  Palermo,  Trapani,  and  Syracuse;  to  Palermo,  Messina,  the  Pirseus,  Con- 
stantinople (Odessa  and  Batum);  to  Smyrna  and  Constantinople  (RR.  27. 
80);  to  Leghorn,  Naples,  Messina,  and  Alexandria  (R.  67);  to  Naples  ana 
Port  Said  (R.  67);  La  Veloce  (Via  Garibaldi  2),  to  Naples  and  Teneriffe 
(for  Brazil),  and  via,  Marseilles  and  Barcelona  to  Tenentfe  (Colon) ;  Italia 
(Via  Venti  Settembre  34)  to  Teneriffe  and  Buenos  Ayres;  Lloyd  italiano 
(Palazzo  Doria,  Via  Andrea  Doria),  for  Naples  and  New  York  (R.  24); 
Lloyd  Sabaudo  (Piazza  San  Siro),  for  Naples.  Palermo,  and  New  York 
(RR.  24,  26),  and  for  Tarragona,  Gibraltar,  ana  Buenos  Ayres;  CompaMa 
Trasatldntica  (Giovanelli,  Via  Balbi,  Salita  Santa  Brigida  2),  for  Barce- 
lona, Lisbon,  and  Liverpool,  for  Port  Said  and  Manila,  and  for  Barcelona, 
Malaga,  Teneritfe,  and  Buenos  Ayres. 

Bankers.  Kirby  &  Le  Mesurier,  Via  Carlo  Felice  7;  Thos.  Cook  <fe 
Son,  Piazza  dolla  Meridiana,  cor.  of  Via  Cairoli  (PL  E,  4);  Credito  Ita- 
liano, Via  San  Luca  4;  Banca  Commercials  Italiana,  Piazza  Banchi  11 
(PL  D,  5).  —  Monet  Changers  abound  near  the  Borsa. — Bookselleb. 
A.  Donath,  Via  Luccoli  33. 


Via  Balbi.  GENOA.  15.  Route.      H5 

Consuls.  British  Consul-General,  William  Keene,  Via  Assarotti  31 1 
vico-cousul ,  A.  Turton.  —  U.  S.  Consul-General,  J.A.Smith,  Via  Venti 
Settembre  42;  vice-consul,  J.  W.  Dtje. 

Churches.  English  (Church  of  the  Holy  Ghost),  Via  Gofto  (PI.  G  4; 
services  at  8.  15  and  11  a.  in.,  occasionally  also  at  4  p.  m.);  Presbyterian, 
Via  Pcschiera  4  (service  at  11  a.  m.). 

Sights.  Museo  Chiossone  (p.  116),  daily  except  Mon.,  10-3,  adm. 
lfr.;  Palazzo  Bianco  (p.  116),  daily,  Oct.-March  11-4,  April-Sept.  10-4, 
Sun.  and  Thurs.  >/.i  fr.,  other  days  1/2  fr«i  f''ee  on  iast  Sun.  of  each  month; 
Palazzo  Durazzo-Pallavicini  (see  below),  daily  11-4,  fee  1/2-l  fr. ;  Palazzo 
Rosso  (p.  116),  free  daily,  11-4,  except  on  Tues.,  Sun.,  and  holidays. 

Genoa,  Ital.  Genava,  French  Genes,  a  city  of  156,000  inhab., 
was  a  republic  and  a  great  naval  power  in  the  middle  ages,  rival- 
ling Venice,  but  declined  after  the  16th  cent.;  in  1797  it  became 
the  capital  of  Napoleon's  'Ligurian  Republic',  and  since  1815  has 
belonged  to  the  kingdom  of  Sardinia  which  is  now  merged  in  that 
of  Italy.  Next  to  Marseilles  it  is  the  greatest  of  Mediterranean  sea- 
ports. The  exports  and  imports  in  1908  amounted  to  6.4  million 
tons,  and  the  tonnage  of  shipping  to  14.4  millions. 

From  the  pier,  either  the  Ponte  Federico  Guglielmo  or  the 
Ponte  Andrea  Doria  (p.  113),  we  cross  the  harbour-rails  to  the 
Palazzo  Doria  (PL  A,  B,  2),  once  presented  by  the  republic  to 
Andrea  Doria  (1468-1560),  the  famous  admiral  of  Charles  V., 
and  enter  the  Piazza  del  Principe  (PI.  B,  2;  tramway,  see  p.  114), 
with  its  handsome  bronze  monument  to  the  Marchese  Deferrari, 
Duke  of  Galliera  (d.  1876),  to  whose  generosity  Genoa  is  partly 
indebted  for  its  new  quays  (1877-95). 

The  Via  Andrea  Doria  leads  hence  to  the  E.  to  the  Piazza 
Acquaverde  (PI.  B,  C,  2),  the  square  in  front  of  the  Railway 
Station,  where,  amid  palms,  rises  a  monument  to  Columbus,  who 
was  probably  born  at  Geuoa  in  1451  (d.  at  Valladolid  in  1506). 

To  the  S.E.  from  this  piazza  runs  a  narrow  line  of  streets,  the 
chief  artery  of  traffic,  adorned  with  superb  late-Renaissance  edifices, 
built  chiefly  by  Galeazzo  Alessi  (1512-72),  named  Via  Balbi,  Via 
Cairoli,  and  Via  Garibaldi,  and  ending  at  the  Piazza  Fontane  Ma- 
rose.  Several  of  the  palaces  are  well  worth  seeing,  especially  for 
the  sake  of  their  grand  staircases. 

No.  10,  on  the  right  side  of  the  Via  Balbi,  is  the  Palazzo  Reale 
(PI.  C,  3),  built  after  1650  for  the  Durazzo  family,  and  purchased 
in  1817  for  the  royal  house  of  Sardinia.  No.  5,  on  the  left,  is  the 
Palazzo  dell'Universita  (PI.  D,  2,  3),  begun  by  Bart.  Bianco 
in  1623  as  a  Jesuit  school.  The  *Court  and  the  staircases  are  con- 
sidered the  finest  in  Genoa. 

Farther  on,  to  the  right,  No.  4  is  the  Palazzo  Balbi  Send- 
rega;  No.  1,  on  the  left,  is  the  Palazzo  Durazzo-Pallavicini  (PI. 
D,  3),  both  by  Bart.  Bianco.  The  picture-gallery  in  the  latter  (adm., 
see  above)  contains  portraits  by  Rubens  and  Van  Dyck,  painted 
during  their  visits  to  Genoa. 


116     Route  16.  GKNOA.  V™  Garibaldi. 

We  cross  the  Piazza  dell'Annunziata  (PI.  D,  3)  with  the  hand- 
some baroque  church  of  that  name  on  the  left,  and  the  small  Piazza 
della  Zecca  (PI.  D,  E, 3 ;  funicular  to  Castellaccio,  p.  117),  and  then 
follow  the  Via  Cair61i  (PI.  D,  E,  4)  to  the  — 

*Via  Garibaldi  (PL  E,  4),  which  is  flanked  with  numerous  pal- 
aces. No.  13,  on  the  left,  is  the  Palazzo  Bianco;  No.  18,  on  the 
right,  the  Palazzo  Rosso;  both  once  belonged  to  the  Brignole- 
Sale  family,  but  were  bequeathed  to  the  city  by  the  March esa 
Brignole-Sale  (d.  1889),  widow  of  the  Duca  di  Galliera  (p.  115), 
and  converted  into  the  two  galleries  named  Brignole-Sale  (adm., 
see  p.  115).  Most  of  the  other  palaces  were  designed  by  Gal.  Alessi. 

From  the  Piazza  Fontane  Marose  (PI.  F,  4,  5)  the  short  Via  Carlo 
Felice  leads  to  the  S.W.  to  the  Piazza  Deferrari  (PI.  E,  5,  6),  the 
centre  of  the  city  and  focus  of  most  of  the  tramway-lines  (p.  114). 
The  Accademia  di  Belle  Arti  (PI.  E,  F,  6),  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
Piazza,  contains  the  valuable  Museo  Chiossone  (adm.,  see  p.  115), 
a  collection  of  Japanese  and  Chinese  works  of  art. 

The  busy  Via  Roma  (PI.  F,  5)  leads  to  the  N.E.  from  the  Piazza 
Deferrari,  past  (right)  the  Galleria  Maszini,  to  the  Piazza  Corvetto 
(PL  F,  Or,  5),  adjoining  which,  on  the  left,  on  an  old  bastion  is  the  Villetta 
Dinegro  (PI.  F,  4;  242  ft.;  fine  views),  a  beautiful  public  park. 

From  the  S.E.  side  of  the  Piazza  Deferrari,  where  the  new  buildings 
of  the  Exchange  (Borsa)  and  the  Post  Office  are  in  progress  (PI.  E,  F,  6), 
runs  the  broad  new  Via  Venti  Settembre  (PI.  F-H,  6,  7),  the  favourite 
promenade  of  the  citizens,  leading  to  the  Bisagno  Valley  and  the  Stasione 
Orientate  (p.  113).  Immediately  before  we  reach  the  street-viaduct  we 
may  turn  to  the  right,  cross  the  Piazza  Ponticello  (PI.  F,  6,  7),  and  ascend 
the  Via  Fieschi  to  *Santa  Maria  di  Carignano  (PI.  E,  8;  172  ft.),  built 
by  Gal.  Alessi.  The  gallery  of  the  dome  (249  steps;  sacristan  25  c.)  is  a 
splendid  point  of  view.  The  Via  Nino  Bixio  and  Via  Corsica  (PI.  E,  F,  8,  9) 
lead  thence  to  the  — 

*Via  di  Circonvallazione  a  Mare,  skirting  the  coast  on  the  site 
of  the  old  town-ramparts,  named  Via  Odone  and  Corso  Aurelio  Saffi  (PI. 
E-H,  9,  10;  tramway  No.  4,  see  p.  114). 

From  the  S.W.  angle  of  the  Piazza  Deferrari  the  short  Via  Sellai 
leads  to  the  Piazza  Umberto  Primo  (PI.  E,  6).-  On  its  N.  side  rises 
the  old  Palazzo  Ducale,  or  palace  of  the  doges  (telegraph-office), 
approached  by  a  handsome  flight  of  steps.  On  the  S.E.  side  is  the 
ornate  Jesuit  church  of  Sant'Ambrogio,  containing  a  Presentation 
in  the  Temple  and  the  Miracles  of  St.  Ignatius  by  Rubens. 

From  the  Piazza  Umberto  Primo  the  busy  Via  San  Lorenzo  leads 
to  the  N.W. ,  past  the  Cathedral  (PL  E,  5,  6;  San  Lorenzo), 
dating  from  the  12-17th  cent,  (in  the  left  aisle  the  fine  early- 
Renaissance  chapel  of  San  Giovanni  Battista),  back  to  the  — 

Harbour.  Following  the  tramway  to  the  right  to  the  Piazza 
Raibetta,  we  observe  on  the  left,  between  that  piazza  and  the  Piazza 
Caricamento,  the  Gothic  Palazzo  di  San  Giorgio,  once  the  seat  of 
the  great  merchants'  bank  of  that  name.  Beyond  the  Piazza  Carica- 


Campo  Santo.  GENOA.  IB.  Route.     117 

mento  the  noisy  Via  Carlo  Alberto  (PI.  D,  C,  4-2)  leads  to  the  N. 
past  the  Darsena,  once  the  naval  harbour,  to  the  Piazza  Principe 
and  to  the  piers,  affording  a  glimpse  at  the  harbour  traffic. 


From  the  Piazza  della  Zecca  (p.  116)  a  Funicular  Tramway 
(50  c.)  ascends  every  10  min.  to  San  Nicold  (PL  E,  1;  change 
cars)  and  *Castellaccio,  loftily  situated.  At  the  terminus  (about 
1025  ft.;  Ristorante  Beregardo,  dcj.  2'/2j  D.  4fr.,  commended) 
there  is  a  splendid  view  of  the  Bisagno  Valley  with  the  Campo 
Santo  (see  below).  About  1/2  M.  to  the  N.W.  rises  the  old  fort  of 
Castellaccio  (1254  ft.),  which  commands  an  admirable  survey  of 
Genoa  and  the  coast  from  Savona  (p.  113)  to  the  headland  of  Por- 
tofino  (p.  134). 

On  the  rocky  Capo  del  Faro,  between  Genoa  and  San  Pier 
d'Arena,  rises  the  Lanterna,  a  great  Lighthouse,  230  ft.  high, 
from  the  foot  of  which  we  obtain  another  extensive  *View.  Tram- 
way as  far  as  the  tunnel  (No.  3;  p.  114). 

From  the  Piazza  Deferrari  a  tramway  (No.  5)  leads  by  the  Piazza 
Manin  (PI.  I,  4)  to  the  N.E.  to  the  Campo  Santo  or  Cimitero  di 
Staglieno,  which  rises  above  the  Val  Bisagno  on  the  N.  bank. — 
We  may  take  the  tramway  or  a  motor-omnibus  also  to  the  Lido 
d' 'Alburn,  a  popular  resort  and  sea-bathing  place  below  the  road 
to  Sturla  and  Nervi. 

Favourite  excursions  from  Genoa  are  (tramways  tuts.  6  and  3)  to 
Nervi,  7»/a  M.  to  the  E.,  on  the  Pisa  line,  and  to  Pegli,  6'/4  M.  to  the  W., 
on  the  Ventimiglia  line.  Nervi  has  a  beautiful  marine  parade,  and  at 
Pegli  is  the  Villa  PaUavidni.  (The  entrance  of  the  villa  is  immediately 
to  the  left  of  the  exit  from  the  rail,  station;  adm.  on  week-days  except 
Frid.  and  festivals,  10-3;  on  Sun.  and  holidays  9-2;  fee  1  fr.)  —  A  superb 
view  is  obtained  from  the  Portofino-Kulm  (1477  ft.;  Hot. -Restaur.,  dej. 
5,  D.  7  fr.),  on  the  Monte  di  Portofino  (p.  134).  Motor-omn.  direct  from 
Genoa,  Piazza  Deferrari;  also  4  times  daily  from  Recco  station,  13  M.  to 
the  E.,  on  the  Pisa  line. 

See  also  Baedeker's  Northern  Italy. 

b.  Via  Algiers. 

1086  M.  North  German  Lloyd  on  alternate  Saturdays,  in  3  days  (to 
Algiers  in  25  lirs.,  fare  60  or  44  marks;  thence  to  Genoa  33  hrs.,  fare  77  or 
55  marks).  The  Hamburg-American  and  the  Austrian  Lloyd  steamers  some- 
times ply  between  Gibraltar  and  Algiers.  The  Navigation  Mixte  usually 
sends  steamers  from  Gibraltar  to  Oran  (hence  to  Algiers  by  railway). 
Steamers  of  the  German  Levant  Line  and  others  also  are  available  as 
far  as  Algiers.  —  Agents  at  Gibraltar,  see  p.  53;  at  Algiers,  p.  219;  at 
Genoa,  p.  114.    See  also  'Gibraltar  Chronicle'. 

The  vessel  steers  to  the  E.  from  Gibraltar,  between  the  Spanish 
coast,  which  remains  in  sight  as  far  as  the  Cabo  de  Gala  (comp. 
R.  15a),  and  the  flat  volcanic  island  of  Albordn  (48  ft.),  the  ancient 
Drinaupa,  now  belonging  to  Spain.  The  distant  Sierra  Nevada 
(p.  49)  peeps  here  and  there  above  the  horizon. 


118     Route /e.  BAY  OF  NAPLES. 

Off  Cape  Ivi  (lighthouse),  beyond  the  mouth  of  the  Chdlif 
(p.  208),  we  sight  the  Tell  Atlas  (p.  169)  on  the  Algerian  coast. 
We  then  pass  the  very  prominent  Cape  Tenhs  (p.  209)  and,  beyond 
Cherchell  (p.  244),  the  massive  Jebel  Chenoua  (p.  242),  near  which 
we  survey  the  beautiful  Bay  of  Castiglione  (p.  237),  backed  by  the 
hills  of  Sahel  and  extending  to  Mont  Bouzariah  (p.  235). 

By  Has  Acrata  (p.  237)  we  n.ear  the  coast,  pass  the  lighthouse 
on  the  low  Cape  Caxine  (p.  237)  and  the  picturesque  cliffs  of  Pointe 
Pescade  (p.  237),  then  St.  Eugene  (p.  236)  and  the  church  of  Notre- 
Damed'Afrique  (p.  236),  and  enter  the  harbour  of  Algiers  (p.  217). 

Leaving  Algiers  for  Genoa  the  vessel  steers  to  the  N.N.E.,  afford- 
ing a  fine  parting  view  of  the  Bay  of  Algiers  and  the  coast  as  far 
as  Cape  Bengut  (p.  127).  Corsica  (p.  143)  is  visible  in  clear  wea- 
ther only.  We  near  the  Riviera  di  Ponente  off  Porto  Maurizio 
(p.  113)  and  soon  enter  the  harbour  of  Genoa  (comp.  p.  113). 

16.  From  Gibraltar  to  Naples. 

1118  M.  Cunard  Line  (from  New  York)  and  White  Star  (from  New 
York  or  Boston),  each  two  or  three  times  a  month,  in  8  days  (fare  bl. 
10s.);  Orient  Royal  (from  London),  fortnightly;  North  German  Lloyd  (from 
New  York  or  Southampton),  three  or  four  times  a  month  (120  or  88  marks); 
Hamburg-American  Line  (from  New  York),  once  or  twice  a  month. 

For  Gibraltar,  and  the  first  part  of  the  voyage,  comp.  p.  52 
and  R.  15a.    Astern  appears  the  majestic  Sierra  Nevada  (p.  49). 

Steering  to  the  E.N.E.,  we  sometimes  see  the  Algerian  coast  to 
the  S.,  from  Cape  Tenes  (p.  209)  to  the  Bay  of  Algiers  (p.  221) 
and  the  hills  of  Great  Kabylia  (p.  252). 

After  many  hours'  steaming  we  next  sight  the  uninhabited  rocky 
islet  of  II  Toro,  off  the  S.W.  coast  of  Sardinia,  and  the  Golfo  di 
Palmas  (p.  129),  between  the  island  of  San  Antioco  and  the  bold 
Cape  Teulada,  the  ancient  Chersonesus  Promontorium,  the  south- 
most  point  of  Sardinia.  We  pass  the  Isola  Rossa  Bay  at  some 
distance ;  then  Cape  Spartivento  (lighthouse),  at  the  S.  end  of  the 
broad  Bay  of  Cagliari  (p.  144),  which  is  only  distinguishable  in 
clear  weather,  and  the  granitic  Isola  dei  Cavoli  (lighthouse),  ly- 
ing off  Cape  Carbonara  (p.  144).  The  Sardinian  coast  now  rapid- 
ly disappears. 

The  steamer  at  length  nears  the  Bocca  Grande,  15  M.  in  width, 
the  chief  entrance  to  the  *Ba.y  of  Naples  (p.  135),  between  the 
islands  of  Ischia  (left)  and  Capri  (right),  with  Vesuvius  in  the  dis- 
tance. The  S.W.  point  of  Ischia  is  the  picturesque  Punta  Impera- 
tore  (lighthouse).  We  steer  past  the  S.  side  of  the  island,  about  3  M. 
from  the  Punta  Sant' Angela  and  the  Punta  San  Pancrazio,  then 
past  the  island  of  Procida  and  the  hill  of  Posilipo,  into  the  har- 
bour of  Naples  (p.  135). 

From  Naples  to  Genoa,  see  It.  24. 


119 


& 
^ 


^ 
>. 


~v 


119 

17.  Prom  (Lisbon)  Tangier,  and  from 
Gibraltar,  to  Marseilles. 

From  Lisbon  to  Tangier  and  (1150  M.)  Marseilles  (Naples,  and  Port 
Suid)  there  are  regular  steamboat  services  (from  Tangier  or  Gibraltar  to 
Marseilles  in  3  days)  by  the  German  East  African  Line  (E.  circular  tour), 
once  in  three  weeks,  and  the  Rotterdam  Lloyd,  fortnightly.  —  From  Gi- 
braltar to  Marseilles  there  are  the  Peninsular  &  Oriental,  the  Orient 
Royal,  and  other  lines.  —  Steamboat-agents  at  Lisbon,  Tangier,  Gibraltar, 
and  Marseilles,  see  pp.  8,  98,  53,  120. 

From  Lisbon  to  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar,  comp.  p.  5 ;  Tangier, 
p.  98;  Gibraltar,  p.  52. 

The  steamer  skirts  the  Spanish  coast  from  Gibraltar  to  Iviza 
(p.  112).  The  direct  route  to  Marseilles  is  through  the  Balearic 
Sea  (p.  112)  and  the  Gulf  of  Lions,  where  storms  often  prevail; 
but  when  the  mistral,  or  N.  wind,  blows  a  more  westerly  course 
is  chosen,  past  the  volcanic  Columbretes  islets  (lighthouse)  and 
aloug  the  coast  of  Catalonia. 

At  length,  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Rhone  Delta,  aud  flanked  with  bare 
limestone  hills,  we  sight  the  Bay  of  Marseilles,  bounded  by  thr 
Cap  Couronne,  on  the  left,  and  the  Cap  Croisette,  on  the  right. 
We  pass  the  island  of  Planier  (lighthouse)  and  the  islands  of  Ra- 
tonneau,  Pomegue,  and  //,  and  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the  church  of 
Notre  Dame  dela  Garde  (p.  122)  overlooking  the  city.  The  vessels 
usually  steer  through  the  Avant-Port  Nord  and  the  large  new  Bas- 
sin National  iuto  the  Bassin  de  la  Gave  Maritime. 

Marseilles.  —  Arrival  bt  Sea.  The  North  German  Lloyd  and  Ger- 
man East  African  steamers  anchor  in  the  Bassin  du  Lazaret  (PI.  B,  1). 
Those  of  the  Gencrale  Transatlantique  Co.  and  Messageries  Maritimes 
start  from  the  Bassin  de  la  Joliette  (PI.  B,  2,  3).  Most  of  the  great  British 
lines  (P.  &  0.,  Orient  Roval,  Bibby,  British  India,  etc.)  have  their  own 
berths,  as  to  which  careful  inquiry  should  be  made.  Note  that  most  of" 
these  are  a  long  way  from  the  principalr  ailway-station  (l-l'/a  M.) 

Railway  Stations.  The  Gare  St.  Charles  (PI.  F,  2),  the  main  station, 
is  the  only  one  for  through-passenger  traffic.  See  the  French  Indicateur 
as  to  trains,  several  of  which  run  in  winter  only;  others  correspond  with 
the  P.  &  0.  and  other  steamers  for  Egypt,  India,  Australia,  etc. 

Hotels  (mostly  in  noisy  situations).  *Reoina  (PI.  f ;  D,  3),  Place 
Sadi-Carnot;  *Louvre  &  de  la  Paix  (PI.  a;  E,  4),  *Noailles  &  Metro- 
pole  (PI.  c;  E,  4),  and  Grand  (PI.  b;  F,  4),  all  in  the  Rue  Noailles;  Bristol 
(PI.  w;E,  4),  Rue  Cannebiere,  new.  These  five  are  of  the  first  class  (R. 
from  4  or  5,  B.  l'/2,  dej.  4-4'/»,  D.  5-6  fr.).  — Petit-Lodvre  (PI.  d;  E,  4), 
Rue  Cannebiere  16;  Geneve  (PI.  m;D,  4),  Rue  dea  Templiers  3,  R.  from 
S'/g,  B.  1  '/a >  J^j-  3,  D.  4  fr.,  well  spoken  of;  Castille  &  Luxembourg 
(PI.  e;  E.5),  Rue  St.  Ferreol,  R.  from  3,  B.  l'/4,  de\j.  3,  D.  4  f r. ;  Des  Pho- 
ceens  (PI.  i;  E,  4),  Rue  Thubaneau  4,  R.  from  3,  B.  1,  dej.  3,  D.  4  fr., 
good ;  Continental  (PI.  j  ;  L\  4),  Rue  Beauvau  6,  R.  from  2'/2 ,  B.  1,  de\).  3, 
D.  8'/2  fr.  —  Near  the  Railway  Station:  Terminus  Hotel  (PI.  g;  F,  2),  R. 
5-10  fr. ;  *Russie  &  Angleterre,  Boul.  d'Athenes  31  (PI.  E,  3),  R.  from  4, 
B.  l'/o  dej.  3,  D.  4  fr.;  Bordeaux  &  Orient  (PI.  k;  E,  3),  same  boulevard, 
No.  11,  R.  from  3,  B.  l'/2,  dej.  3,  D.  3'/*  fr.—  Hotels  G-arnis  (R.  3-4,  B. 
l-l'/a  fr.):  Gr.  Nouvel  H6tel  (PI.  u;  F,  4),  Boul.  du  Musee  10,  good;  Mo- 
dern Hotel  (PI.  s;  D,  4),  Rue  Cannebiere  50;  Riche  et  du  Vingtiemk 
Sieclb  (PI.  v;  E,  4),  same  street,  No.  1. 


120     Route  17.  MARSEILLES.  Practical  Notes. 

Restaurants.  *La  Reserve,  Palace  Hotel,  Chemin  de  la  Corniche, 
of  the  first  class. — *Isnard,  H6t.  des  Phoceens  (p.  119);  de  Provence,  Cours 
BelsuDce  12,  good. —  Cafes,  best  in  Rue  Canneoiere  and  Rue  Noailles. — 
Brasserie  de  V  Univers,  at  the  Hotel  Bristol  (p.  119) ;  Strasbourg,  Place 
de  la  Bourse  11. 

Cabs  (voitures  de  place,  same  fares  by  day  or  night).  In  the  inner 
city,  to  the  Traverse  de  la  Joliette  (PI.  B,  2)  in  the  N.,  and  to  Boul.  de  la 
Corderie  and  Boul.  Notre  Dame  in  the  S.W. :  one-horse  carriage  (2  seats) 
per  drive,  IV21  Per  hour-  2'/2  fr. ;  two-horse  carr.  (4  seats)  2  or  3  fr. ;  trunk 
25  c.  per  drive,  50  c.  per  hour.  —  As  overcharges  are  frequent,  the  tariff 
should  be  asked  for.  —  Motor  Cabs  (taximeters  for  3  pers.),  1  fr.  for 
the  first  800  metres  (ca.  V2  M.),   20  c.  each  addit.  400  m.;  3  fr.  per  hour. 

Tramways  (in  the  town,  10  c. ;  no  transfer  tickets).  Among  the  chief 
are:  from  Place  de  la  Joliette  (PI.  C,  2)  to  Boul.  Vauban  (PI.  D,  7;  Notre 
Dame  de  la  Garde,  p.  122);  from  Quai  de  la  Joliette  to  the  Zoological 
Garden  (PI.  H,  2;  Palais  de  Longchamp,  p.  122);  from  Zoological  Garden 
to  Boul.  Notre  Dame  (PI.  D,  6,  7;  lift  to  Notre  Dame  de  la  Garde)  and  Boul. 
Vauban  (PI.  D,  7) ;  from  the  Cours  St.  Louis  (PI.  E,  4)  via  the  Prado  (p.  122), 
the  Corniche  (p.  122),  and  Endoume,  back  to  the  Cours  St.  Louis  (15  c). 

Transporter  Bridge  (Pont  Transbordevr ;  PI.  B,  4,  5;  p.  121), 
between  Quai  de  la  Tourette  and  Boul.  du  Pharo,  in  2  min.  (5  c). 

Steamboat  Lines.  Peninsular  &  Oriental  (Estrine  &  Co.,  Rue  Col- 
bert 18),  from  London  to  Gibraltar,  Marseilles,  and  Port  Said  (RR.  1,  17,  67); 
Orient  Royal  (Worms  &  Co.,  Rue  Grignan  28),  from  London  to  Gibraltar, 
Marseilles,  Naples,  and  Port  Said  (RR.  1,  17,  23,  67);  North  German  Lloyd 
(W.  Carr,  Rue  Beauvau  16),  to  Goletta  (Tunis)  and  Alexandria,  to  Naples 
and  Alexandria,  also  to  Genoa,  Naples,  Catania,  the  Piraeus,  Constantinople, 
etc.  (RR.  22,  23,  24,  67,  77,  80);  German  East  African  (W.  Carr),  from 
Southampton  to  Lisbon,  Tangier,  Marseilles,  Naples,  and  Port  Said  (RR. 
1,  23,  67);  Bibby  (Watson  &  Parker,  Rue  Beauvau  8),  from  Liverpool  to 
Marseilles,  Port  Said,  etc.  (R.  67);  British  India  (G  Budd,  Rue  Beauvau 
8),  from  Port  Said  to  Genoa,  Marseilles,  and  London ;  Rotterdam  Lloyd 
(Ruys  &  Co.,  Rue  de  la  Republique  29),  to  Port  Said  (R.  67);  Messageries 
Maritimes  (Place  Sadi-Carnot  3),  to  Naples,  Piraeus,  Constantinople,  and 
Beirut  (RR.  77,  75),  also  to  Constantinople,  Odessa,  and  Batum  (RR.  83,  85), 
also  to  Alexandria,  Port  Said,  and  Beirut  (RR.  67,  72);  Generate  Trans- 
atlantique  (Rue  Noailles  15),  to  Oran  and  Cartagena  (RR.  19,  18),  also  to 
Algiers,  Bougie,  Philippeville,  and  Bona  (R.  20),  also  to  Tunis  and  Malta 
(R.  21,  63),  and  to  Sfax  and  Susa  (RR.  21,  64);  Transports  Maritimes  (Rue 
de  la  Republique  70),  to  Gibraltar  and  Madeira  (R.  3),  to  Oran  (R.  19),  to 
Algiers,  Philippeville,  and  Bona  (R.  20),  and  to  Tunis  (Susa;  RR.  22,  64); 
Navigation  Mixte  {Touache  Co.,  Rue  Cannebiere  54),  to  Oran  (R.  19),  to 
Tangier  via  Oran  (RR.  19, 18),  to  Algiers  and  Philippeville  (R.  20),  to  Tunis, 
Sfax,  and  Tripoli  (RR.  21,  64),  and  to  Palermo  (RR.  21,  26);  Chargeurs 
Reunis  (Worms  &  Co.,  see  above),  from  Dunkirk  to  Marseilles,  Genoa,  and 
Naples  (for  E.  Indies,  S.  America,  etc.);  Fraissinet  &  Co.  (Place  de  la 
Bourse  6),  to  Ajaccio  and  Bastia  (and  Leghorn);  N.  Paquet  &  Co.  (Place 
Sadi-Carnot  4),  to  Oran  (if  required),  Tangier,  and  the  Moroccan  ocean- 
coast  (R.  14) ;  Compania  Mallorquina,  to  Palma  (Majorca). 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office.  Hotel  des  Postes  (PI.  D,  3),  Rue  Colbert; 
branches  at  the  railway-station  (p.  119),   at  the  Bourse  (PI.  D,  E,  4),  etc. 

Tourist  Agents.  Thos.  Cook  &  Son,  Rue  Noailles  11  bis;  Lubin, 
Rue  des  Feuillants  14.  — Banks.  Banque  de  France  (PI.  E,  6),  Place  Es- 
trangin-Pastre;  Credit  Lyonnais,  Rue  St.  Ferreol  25  (PI.  E,  4,  5). 

Consuls.  British  Consul-General,  M.  C.  Gurney,  Rue  des  Princes  8; 
vice-consuls,  T.  Broadwood,  F.  J.  Handing.  —  U.  S.  Consul-General,  A. 
Gaulin,  Cours  Pierre-Puget  10;  vice-consul,  P.  H.  Cram. 

English  Church,  Rue  de  Bellois  4;  services  at  10.30  and  3.30. 

Marseilles,  Fr.  Marseille,  the  second-largest  city  in  France, 
with  517,500  inhab.,  the  Massalia  of  the  Greeks  and  Massilia 


Harbour.  MARSEILLES.  17.  Route.      121 

of  the  Romans,  was  founded  by  Greeks  from  Phoc&a  (p.  530)  in 
Asia  Minor  about  600  B.C.,  and  soon  became  one  of  the  greatest 
seaports  on  the  Mediterranean.  During  the  Roman  period  it  vied 
with  Athens  as  a  seat  of  Greek  culture;  in  the  middle  ages  it 
belonged  to  the  kingdom  of  Arelate,  and  later  to  the  county  of 
Provence,  and  in  1481  it  was  at  length  annexed  to  France.  Being 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  great  and  time-hunoured  route  through 
the  Rhone  Valley  to  N.W.  Europe,  it  is  the  most  important  of 
French  and  of  all  Mediterranean  seaports.  The  total  exports  and 
imports  are  estimated  at  2926  million  francs,  and  nearly  17  million 
tons  of  shipping  enter  and  clear  annually.  The  city  is  now  almost 
entirely  modern  and  destitute  of  historical  memorials. 

From  the  Bassin  du  Lazaret  (PI.  B,  1)  and  Bassin  de  la  Jo- 
liette  (PI.  B,  2,  3),  the  southmost  of  the  docks  constructed  since 
1850  to  the  N.W.  of  the  old  town,  we  follow  the  Quai  de  la  Joliette 
to  the  — 

-Cathedral  (PI.  B,C,3;  Ste.  Marie  Majeure  or  La  Major), 
situated  on  a  terrace.  This  is  one  of  the  largest  and  finest  churches 
of  the  19th  cent.;  it  was  built  by  Vaudoyer,  in  a  mixed  Byzantfne 
and  Romanesque  style,  in  1852-93.  Adjacent  is  the  Old  Cathedral 
of  St.  Lazare,  which  is  shown  by  the  sacristan  of  the  new  church. 

From  the  Place  de  la  Major  the  Esplanade  de  la  Tourctte  leads 
to  the  S.  to  the  *Vieux  Port  (PI.  C,  D,  4,  5),  the  Lakydon  of  the 
Phocteans,  a  deeply  indented  creek,  where  smaller  craft  only  are  now 
berthed.  The  entrance  to  it  is  guarded  by  the  old  forts  of  Grasse- 
Tilly  and  Entrecasteaux.  Just  inside  the  entrance  the  harbour  is 
crossed  by  the  Pont  Transbordeur  or  Transporter  Bridge  (p.  120) ; 
for  the  sake  of  the  view  we  may  ascend  either  to  the  trolley-way 
(buffet-restaurant)  or  to  the  top  of  the  N.  tower  (steps  up  and  down 
50  c;  lift  up  60,  up  and  down  75  c). 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  Quai  du  Port  (PI.  C,  D,  4),  the  scene  of 
motley  popular  traffic  (pickpockets  not  uncommon),  lies  the  Old 
Town,  with  its  narrow  and  dirty  streets,  inhabited  by  the  lower 
classes,  including  numerous  Italians  of  whom  the  city  contains 
about  100,000.  This  quay  leads  past  the  Hotel  de  Ville  (PI.  C,4), 
an  interesting  building  of  the  17th  cent.,  to  the  E.  end  of  the  Vieux 
Port,  where  begins  the  — 

*Rue  Cannemkke  (Pl.D,  E,  4),  which  for  ages  has  been  the 
chief  boast  of  the  city.  Here,  on  the  left,  is  the  Bourse  (PI.  E,  4), 
erected  by  Coste  in  1852-60. 

This  street,  prolonged  by  the  Rue  Noailles,  the  Allies  de 
Meilhan,  etc.,  intersects  the  city  from  S.W.  to  N.E.,  and  at  the 
Cours  St.  Louis  (PI.  E,  4),  the  chief  centre  of  traffic,  it  is  crossed 
by  a  straight  line  of  streets  running  from  N.W.  to  S.E.,  the  Cours 
Belsunce,  Rue  de  Rome,  and  Promenade  du  Prado,  to  the  Rond 
Point  (p.  122),  being  in  all  nearly  3  M.  long. 


122     Route  17.  MARSEILLES.       Chemin  de  la  Corniche, 

The  Rue  Noailles  (PI.  E,  4),  from  the  end  of  which  the  Boulevard 
Dugommier  ascends  to  the  railway-station,  and  the  pretty  Allees 
de  Meilhan  (PI.  F,  4)  lead  to  the  modern-Gothic  church  of  St. 
Vincent  de  Paul  (PI.  F,  3),  with  its  two  towers  commanding  a 
great  part  of  the  city. 

A  little  to  the  left  is  the  Cours  du  Chapitre,  leading  into  the 
Boulevard  Longchamp  (PI.  G,  H,  3,  2),  a  street  ascending  steeply 
to  the  *Palais  de  Longchamp  (PI.  H,  2).  This  imposing 
Renaissance  edifice  was  designed  by  Espirandieu,  the  architect 
(1862-9).  The  Ionic  colonnade,  with  a  lofty  triumphal  arch  in  the 
centre,  where  a  picturesque  cascade  has  been  introduced,  is  flanked 
with  two  wings,  the  right  containing  the  Natural  History  Museum, 
and  the  left  the  Museum  of  Fine  Art  (adm.  daily  except  Mon. 
and  Frid.,  8-12  and  2-5  or  in  winter  9-12  and  2-4;  closed  20th- 
31st  Jan.  and  20th-31st  July). 

The  groundfloor  contains  sculptures.  In  the  centre  is  the  principal 
hall.  The  room  on  the  left  contains  works  by  the  Marseillais  master 
Pierre  Pu get  (1622-94);  in  that  on  the  right  is  a  model  of  the  Monument 
to  the  Dead  in  Pere  Lachaise  at  Paris,  by  Bartholome".  The  staircase  is 
adorned  with  a  wall-painting  by  Pi/vis  de  Chavannes  (1869). 

On  the  first  floor  is  the  picture-gallery.  Among  the  older  pictures 
in  the  central  room  are:  361.  Nattier,  Duchesse  de  Chateauroux;  788. 
Pietro  Perugino,  Holy  Family;  914.  Rubens,  Boar-hunt  (about  1615).  In 
the  modem  department,  in  the  room  on  the  left:  430.  J.  Fr.  Millet, 
Mother  and  child  (1860). 

The  main  streets  of  the  S.  quarter  of  the  town  are  the  Rue  de 
Rome,  which  begins  at  the  Cours  St.  Louis  (p.  121),  and  a  little  to 
the  W.  of  it  the  handsome  Cours  Pierre-Puget  (PI.  E,  D,  5,  6), 
ending  in  the  Promenade  of  that  name. 

A  little  to  the  S.,  on  a  bold  rock  of  white  limestone,  is  enthron- 
ed the  church  of  *Notre  Dame  de  la  Garde  (PI.  D,  7;  532  ft.),  a 
great  landmark  for  mariners,  where  we  obtain  the  finest  view  of 
the  city  and  its  environs.  Lift  (Ascenseur;  PI.  D,  7)  from  the  Rue 
Cherchell  (up  60,  down  30,  return  80  c. ;  on  Sun.  and  before  9 
a.  m.,  40,  20,  or  50  c). 

On  a  fine  day  the  traveller  will  be  repaid  by  a  visit  to  the 
*Cheinin  de  la  Corniche  (comp.  PI.  A,  6;  tramway,  p.  120). 
From  Notre  Dame  de  la  Garde  it  may  be  reached  direct  in  about 
40  min.  by  the  Chemin  du  Roncas-Blanc.  This  road,  partly  hewn 
in  the  rock,  and  shadeless,  affords  fine  views.  It  ends,  near  the 
Chdteau  Borely,  which  stands  in  a  park  and  now  contains  the 
Musee  d'Archeologie,  at  the  — 

Promenade  du  Pkado,  a  favourite  resort  of  the  Marseillais, 
planted  with  plane-trees.  A  gay  throng  may  be  seen  here  on  Sun- 
day afternoons  and  every  fine  evening.  "We  may  return  thence  to 
the  town  by  the  Rond  Point  du  Prado. 

See  also  Baedeker's  Southern  France. 

Prom  Marseilles  to  Naples,  see  E.  23. 


123 

18.  From  Tangier  and  Cartagena  to  Oran. 

From  Tangier  to  Oran  (301  M.).  Mail  steamers  of  the  Navigation 
Mirte,  every  Wed.  afternoon,  in  52Va  hrs.  (fares,  without  food,  80  and 
60  fr.),  via  Melilla  and  Nemours  (returning  via  Beni-Saf,  Nemours,  Melilla, 
and  Tetuan);  also  cargo-steamers  via  Malaga,  Melilla,  and  Nemours,  in 
8-4  days,  leaving  Tangier  every  second  Tuesday  (Malaga  Wed.).  Also 
steamers  of  the  Hungarian  Adria  (fare,  without  food,  30  fr.).  Agents 
at  Tangier,  see  p.  98;  at  Malaga,  p.  89;  at  Oran,  p.  176. 

From  Cartagena  to  Oran  (132  M.).  Comp.  Ginirale  Transattantique 
every  Tuos.  in  9  hrs.  (fares,  without  food,  50  and  35  f r. ;  pier-dues  at 
Cartagena  3  or  2  f r. ;  agent  J.  M.  Pelegrin,  Plaza  de  la  Aduana  1;  at 
Oran,  p.  176).  This  is  the  shortest  sea-route  to  Algiers  and  is  recommended 
to  those  who  are  bad  sailors.     Passport  necessary. 

Steering  from  Tangier  (p.  98)  to  the  E.N.E.  through  the  Straits 
of  Gibraltar,  the  vessel  passes  Cape  Malabata  (p.  57),  Cape 
Alboasa,  and  the  fine  shore  of  the  Cala  Grande,  to  which  the  Bio 
de  las  Ostras  descends  from  the  Sierra  San  Slmonlto,  a  branch 
of  the  Anjera  Mts.  (p.  103).  In  the  little  bay  on  the  E.  side  of 
the  Punta  Alcazar,  scarcely  visible  from  the  sea,  lie  the  ruins  of 
Ksar  es-Serlr,  a  small  seaport  founded  by  Yakub  ibn  Yftsuf  (p.  61), 
which  prospered  in  the  later  middle  ages,  and  belonged  to  the 
Portuguese  from  1448  to  1540. 

Off  Cape  Ciris  (p.  5)  the  steamer  nears  the  abrupt  slopes  of 
the  Sierra  Bullones  (p.  103)  and  then  passes  the  Isla  del  Peregil 
(243  ft.),  which  is  overgrown  with  underwood  and  contains  a  large, 
grotto  (Grotta  de  las  Palumas,  visited  from  Ceuta).  Beyond 
Cape  Leona  and  the  Bay  of  Benzus  the  region  of  Ceuta  (p.  103) 
is  reached.  Fine  view  of  the  bay  of  Algeciras  (p.  56)  and  the  rock 
of  Gibraltar  to  the  N. 

After  passing  the  bay  of  Ceuta  and  the  N.  and  E.  headlands  of 
the  peninsula  of  Almina  (p.  103),  the  Punta  Santa  Catalina 
(p.  5)  and  the  Punta  de  la  Almina  (lighthouse),  we  obtain  an 
admirable  view  of  the  Moroccan  coast,  extending  from  the  Sierra 
Bullones  (p.  103)  to  the  finely  shaped  Jebel  Beni  Hassan.  In 
the  centre,  between  Cabo  Negro  (p.  103)  and  Cabo  Mazari,  is 
the  deep  depression  of  the  plain  of  Tetudn  (p.  102),  where  the 
steamers  of  the  Navigation  Mixte  call  on  their  voyage  to  Tangier 
only. 

The  vessel  now  steers  to  the  E.S.E.  towards  Cape  Tres  Forcas, 
quite  apart  from  thePif  Coast,  a  hill-region  inhabited  by  the  Budfa 
(sing.  Rip)  and  still  forming  part  of  the  Blad  es-Siba  (p.  96).  It 
lies  between  the  Wad  Warlnga,  the  river  bounding  the  province 
of  Tetuan,  and  Cape  Tres  Forcas.  In  the  bay  of  Alhucemas  rise 
the  rocky  islets  of  Penon  de  Velez  de  la  Gomera  and  Islas  de 
Alhucema,  with  two  Spanish  'presidios'.  The  Betoya,  the  stretch 
of  coast  with  its  numerous  creeks  between  Cape  Quilates,  on  the 
E.  side  of  the  Alhucemas  Bay,  and  Cape  Tres  Forcas,  was  for  cent- 
uries the  favourite  haunt  of  the  Rif  pirates  (p.  96). 


124     Route  18.  MELILLA.  From  Tangier 

Beyond  the  wedge-like  Cape  Tres  Foveas,  the  ancient  Sesti- 
aria  Promontorium  (Arabic  Rds  Wark),  jutting  out  121/2  M.  sea- 
ward, we  sight  the  long  coast-line  of  the  Bay  of  MelMa,  into 
which  the  steamers  from  Malaga,  passing  some  20  M.  to  the  W. 
of  the  island  of  Albor&n  (p.  117),  steer  direct. 

Melilla  (Hot.  de  Asia,  Fonda  la  Africana,  both  at  the  harbour 
and  plain),  or  Melila,  a  town  of  9000  inhab.,  the  only  Mediterranean 
port  on  the  Morocco  coast  besides  Ceuta  and  Tetuan  lies  most  pic- 
turesquely on  the  spurs  of  Monte  Melila  or  Caramu  (3235  ft.),  a 
little  to  the  N.  of  the  marshy,  fever-stricken  mouth  of  the  Rio  del 
Oro.  Its  site  is  probably  that  of  the  ancient  JRusaddir  (p.  95), 
where  ended  the  great  Roman  military  road,  about  1430  M.  long, 
which  connected  Carthage  with  Mauretania.  Melilla  is  the  oldest 
Spanish  possession  in  Morocco,  having  been  captured  in  1496.  In 
1774  it  was  unsuccessfully  besieged  by  a  Moroccan  army,  and  in 
1893  it  resisted  an  attack  by  the  Berbers  of  the  Bif.  Being  a  free 
port,  it  carries  on  a  brisk  trade  with  the  coast-towns  of  the  Algerian 
province  of  Oran,  and  many  Moroccans  from  the  interior  embark 
here  on  their  way  to  the  harvesting  in  Algeria.  The  larger  steam- 
ers anchor  in  the  roads,  which  are  tolerably  sheltered  from  the 
W.  winds  only  (landing  or  embarkation  50  c).  New  harbour-works, 
however,  are  now  under  construction.  The  drinking-water  of  Me- 
lilla is  not  good. 

Melilla  consists  of  the  small  and  tidy  new  town  which  has  been 
built  near  the  harbour  since  1893  and  contains  a  covered  market, 
the  shops  of  the  Spanish-Jewish  and  Moorish  tradesmen,  and  the 
promenade,  and  of  the  remarkably  clean  old  town,  enclosed  by  lofty 
walls,  and  occupying  the  nearly  square  plateau  of  a  rocky  headland. 
From  projecting  parts  of  the  town-wall  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of  the 
Fort  Rosario,  which  is  separated  from  the  old  town  by  the  small 
Galdpago  Bay,  and  of  the  broad  bay  extending  to  the  Chafarinas 
Islands  (see  below) ;  in  the  background,  beyond  the  Mar  Chica  or 
Lago  de  Puerto  Nuevo  (Arabic  Sebkha  Bu-Erg),  a  shallow  lake 
13  M.  long,  appears  the  lofty  chain  of  Jebel  Kebdana  with  the 
Monte  de  Tessan  (3275  ft.). 

Continuing  our  Voyage,  we  pass  the  Chafarinas  Islands 
(French  Res  Zafarines),  occupied  by  the  Spanish  since  1848, 
which  lie  off  the  Cabo  del  Agua  and  form  the  only  safe  harbour 
on  this  coast  as  far  as  Oran.  On  the  Isla  Isabel  Segunda,  the 
central  island,  rises  a  lighthouse  visible  at  a  distance  of  20  M. 

We  pass  the  mouth  of  the  Muluya  (p.  93),  the  ancient  Ma- 
lucha  (or  Muluchath) ,  which  separated  the  provinces  of  Mauretania 
Tingitana  and  Mauretania  Csesariensis  (p.  244),  and  was  in  the 
middle  ages  the  boundary  between  the  kingdoms  of  Fez  and 
Tlemcen   (p.  188).    Beyond  it,  rising  above  the  thickly  peopled 


to  Oran.  CARTAGENA.  /*•  Rwte.     125 

coast-plain  of  Tazagraret,  rises  the  chain  of  Jebel  Beni  Snassen 
(p.  197),  which  belongs  geologically  to  the  Algerian  Tell  Atlas 
(p.  169).  The  political  frontier  between  Morocco  and  Algeria  is 
formed  by  the  brook  Oncd  Kiss  or  Adjerond  (comp.  p.  169),  near 
which,  on  the  little  Bale  d'Adjeroud,  and  notf  ar  from  Cape 
Milonia,  lies  the  French  seaport  of  Port-Say  or  Adjeroitd. 

In  calm  weather  the  steamers  call  at  the  bay  of  Nemours 
(p.  198),  enclosed  by  the  spurs  of  the  Traras  Mts.  (p.  198;  landing 
or  embarkation  1  fr.).  They  then  pass  Cape  Torsa  and  Cape  Xoe, 
where  the  plateau  of  Mont  Tadjeva  (2592  ft.)  is  sighted,  and  steer 
to  the  N.E.  towards  Cape  Figalo,  at  some  distance  from  the  little 
port  of  Hom'in  (here  the  iron-ore  of  Rhar  el-Maden  is  exported), 
the  lighthouse  on  the  island  of  Rachgoun  (opposite  the  mouth  of  the 
Tafna,  p.  185) ,  and  the  port  of  Beni-Saf  (p.  185).  To  the  N.E., 
beyond  Cape  Figalo,  appear  the  Isles  Habibas  (lighthouse),  sur- 
rounded by  reefs,  and  then,  beyond  Cape  Lindless,  the  uninhabited 
little  He  Plane. 

Beyond  Cape  Falcon  (lighthouse;  p.  184)  we  survey  the  broad 
Ghdf  of  Oran  (p.  126),  as  far  as  the  Pointe  de  V Aiguille.  Immed- 
iately to  the  right,  in  the  fertile  Plaine  des  Andalouses,  lies  the 
village  of  A'in  et-Turk  (p.  184);  then,  beyond  the  spurs  of  the 
Jebd  Stanton,  the  harbour  of  Mers  el-Ke'bir  (p.  183),  with  a  fort 
and  lighthouse.    Entrance  to  the  harbour  of  Oran,  comp.  p.  175. 


Cartagena  (Hot.  de  Francia  y  de  Paris,  Calle  de  Osuna  and 
Plaza  de  la  Aduana;  Hot.  Ramos,  Plaza  de  Prefumo  8;  Brit,  vice- 
cons.  J.  C.  Gray;  U.  S.  cons,  agent,  A.  J.  Marks;  pop.  41,300), 
founded  by  Hasdrubal  in  221  B.C.,  the  best  natural  harbour  on  the 
Spanish  Mediterranean  coast,  is  now  the  chief  harbour  of  the  Spanish 
navy.  (It  is  reached  by  express  from  Madrid  in  14  hrs.;  sleeping- 
car  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  and  Frid.,  21  p.  25  c.  extra.)  The  railway-station 
lies  to  the  N.E.  of  the  town,  not  far  from  Muelle  de  Alfonso  Duode- 
cimo, the  quay,  where  the  steamers  are  berthed.  A  charming  view 
of  the  town  and  the  bay  is  obtained  from  the  Castillo  de  la  Con- 
ception (230  ft.),  a  ruined  castle  on  a  hill. 

The  entrance  to  the  inner  harbour,  which  is  closed  by  the 
Dique  de  la  Curra  (lighthouse),  is  guarded  by  two  forts  situated 
on  bold  volcanic  rocks,  the  Castillo  de  las  Galeras  (656  ft.)  on  the 
W.,  and  the  Castillo  de  San  Jididn  on  the  E.  (919  ft.).  The  outer 
bay  is  protected  on  the  S.E.  by  the  little  island  of  Escombrera, 
the  ancient  Scombraria. 

The  Oran  steamboats,  soon  after  leaving  Cartagena,  steer  due 
S.,  affording  a  retrospect  of  the  lighthouses  of  Cabo  Tiftoso  to  the 
W.  and  Cape  Palos  (p.  112)  to  the  E.,  and  they  usually  enter  the 
Gulf  of  Oran  (p.  126)  before  dawn. 


126 


19.  From  Marseilles  to  Oran. 

615  M.  Steamboat  Lines  (agents  at  Marseilles,  see  p.  120;  at  Oran, 
p.  176).  Comp.  Ginirale  Transatlantique,  rapide  on  Thurs.  and  Sat.  aft. 
(in  reverse  direction  Tues.  and  Thurs.),  in  41  hrs.,  fare  81  or  59  fr. ; 
Transports  Maritimes,  Tues.  (returning  Sat.),  in  38  hrs.,  75  or  55  fr. ; 
cargo-boat  Frid.  (returning  Tues.),  in  46  hrs.,  60  or  40  fr. ;  Navigation 
Mixte  (Tot/ache  Co.),  Wed.  (returning  Sat.),  in  54  hrs.,  60  or  40  fr. 

Travellers  in  S.  France  may  take  a  steamer  of  the  Navigation  Mixte 
from  Cette  (a  seaport  90  M.  to  the  W.  of  Marseilles)  to  Porte  Vendres  and 
Oran  (Thurs.  night),  in  45  hrs.,  fare  90  or  65  fr. 

Marseilles  and  its  harbour,  see  p.  119. 

Steering  out  into  the  Ghtlf  of  Lions  and  the  Balearic  Sea, 
the  steamers  at  first  either  follow  the  same  course  as  those  to 
Gibraltar  (K.  17),  or  a  more  easterly  course,  past  Majorca  and 
Dragonera  (p.  112),  towards  the  rock-bound  strait  between  Iviza 
(p.  112)  and  the  flat  island  of  Formentera,  the  southmost  of  the 
Balearic  group.  In  passing  we  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the  town  of 
Iviza,  with  its  old  castle  and  loftily  situated  cathedral  (see  Bae- 
deker's Spain  und  Portugal). 

Nearing  the  Algerian  coast,  we  first  sight  the  range  of  hills 
culminating  in  Jebel  Orouze  (p.  199),  which  separates  the  bays  of 
Arzew  (p.  199)  and  Oran.  Entering  the  outer  *Gv,lf  of  Oran,  we 
survey  its  full  extent  from  the  Pointe  de  V Aiguille  to  Cape  Carbon 
(p.  264).  On  the  left,  rises  the  curiously  shaped  Jebel  Kahar  or 
Montagne  des  Lions  (p.  184).  In  the  foreground,  in  the  inner  bay 
bounded  by  Pointe  Canastel  and  the  headland  of  Mers  el-Kebir 
(p.  183),  lies  the  town  of  Oran,  with  the  old  fort  of  Santa  Cruz 
rising  high  above  it  (p.  175). 


20.  From  Marseilles  to  Algiers,  Bougie, 
Philippeville,  and  Bona. 

Steamers  (agents  at  Marseilles,  see  p.  120;  at  Algiers,  p.  219;  at 
Bougie,  p.  262;  at  Philippeville,  p.  304;  at  Bona,  p.  309).  1.  Comp. 
GinArale  Transatlantique  from  Marseilles  to  Algiers  (463  M.),  rapide 
mail-steamers  on  Sun.,  Tues.,  Wed.,  and  Frid.  at  noon  (returning  Sun., 
Tues.,  Thurs.,  Frid.  at  noon),  in  261/2hrs.;  from  Marseilles  to  Bougie 
(455  M.),  Tues.  noon  (returning  Sat.  evening),  in  37'/2  hrs.;  from  Marseilles 
to  Philippeville  (455  M.),  Sat.  noon  (returning  Frid.  noon),  in  30  hrs.;  from 
Marseilles  to  Bona  (462  M.),  Tues.  aft.  (returning  Tues.  night),  in  31  hrs.; 
fares  by  the  mail-steamers  to  Algiers  96  or  69  fr. ;  for  the  other  three 
routes  81  or  59  fr.  —  2.  Transports  Maritimes,  from  Marseilles  to  Algiers 
(and  back),  Wed.  and  Sat.  aft.,  in  35  hrs.,  fare  70  or  45  fr. ;  to  Philippe- 
ville (Bougie),  Sat.  aft.  (returning  Wed.  noon)  in  36  hrs.,  fare  60  or  40  fr. ; 
to  Bona,  Mon.  (returning  Thurs.)  aft.,  in  37  hrs.,  fare  60  or  40  fr.  — 3.  Navi- 
gation Mixte  (Touache  Co.),  from  Marseilles  to  Algiers,  rapide  on  Thurs. 
noon  (returning  Sat.  noon),  in  32  hrs.,  fare  75  or  50  fr.;  direct  cargo-boat 
on  Mon.  aft.  (returning  Frid.  noon),  in  36  hrs.,  fare  60  or  40 fr.;  to  Philippe- 
villo  (Bona),  mail-steamer  on  Thurs.  noon  (returning  Mon.  noon),  in  33  hrs., 
fare  75  or  50  fr. 


BAY  OP  ALGIERS.  so.  Rovte.     127 

Cheap  steamers  to  Algiers  are  the  cargo-boats  of  Cdillol  &  Duvillard 
(50  or  30  fr.)  and  of  Prosper  Durand  (40  or  25  fr.). 

Less  frequented  routes  are  those  of  the  Navigation  Mixte  from  Cette 
(00  M.  to  the  W.  of  Marseilles)  to  Port  Vendres  and  Algiers  (Sat.  night ; 
42hrs.;  90  or  65  fr.);  the  Spanish  Compaflia  MaUorquina  (p.  120)  from 
Marseilles  and  Barcelona  to  Palma  and  Algiers  (twice  monthly;  passport 
necessary) ;  and  the  Comp.  Generate  Transatlantique  (cargo-boats),  be- 
tween Ajaccio  and  Bona  (Thurs.  evening;  in  30-38  hrs. ;  60  or  50  fr.). 

Marseilles,  see  p.  119. 

The  Algieks  steamer  usually  passes  close  to  the  E.  side  of  the 
island  of  Minorca,  the  eastmost  of  the  Balearic  group,  where,  in 
daylight,  the  deeply  indented  natural  harbour  of  Mahon,  the  chief 
town,  specially  attracts  attention.  When  the  sea  is  rough  the 
course  is  sometimes  more  westerly,  past  Cape  Minorca  (light- 
house), the  W.  extremity  of  the  island,  while  inland  on  the  flat 
coast  lies  the  town  of  Ciudadela;  the  vessel  then  passes  at  some 
distance  from  the  Cabo  de  Per  a  (lighthouse),  and  from  the  hilly 
S.E.  coast  of  Majorca,  which  is  famed  for  its  stalactite  caverns 
(see  Baedeker's  Spain  and  Portugal). 

At  length,  in  clear  weather,  we  obtain  a  glorious  *View  of  the 
Algerian  coast,  from  the  hills  of  CapeBengut  (lighthouse)  to  the  E., 
and  the  Jurjura  Chain  and  the  Tell  Atlas  to  the  S.E.,  both  snow- 
clad  in  winter,  to  the  wooded  hill-country  of  Sahel,  culminating  in 
Mont  Bouzareah,  and  Cape  Caxine  (lighthouse)  to  the  W.  We 
now  enter  the  fine  *Bay  of  Algiers  (p.  221),  bounded  by  Cape 
Matifou  (lighthouse)  on  the  N.E.  and  the  cliffs  of  the  Pointe  Pes- 
cade  on  the  N.W.,  and  survey  its  whole  expanse.  To  the  left,  in  the 
Mitidja  Plain,  between  Cape  Matifou  and  the  sand-hills  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Harrach,  lies  Fort-de-V  Eau,  a  sea-bathing  place; 
beyond  the  Harrach,  on  the  hill,  stands  the  church  of  Kouba; 
farther  along  the  coast,  among  the  houses  of  Hassein-Dey  and  Bel- 
court,  lies  the  Jardin  d'Essai,  backed  by  the  gardens  of  Mustapha- 
Superieur;  behind  the  harbour  of  Algiers  rises  the  high  terrace- 
wall  of  the  boulevards;  then,  above  the  new  towu,  the  white  houses 
and  lanes  of  the  Kasba  on  the  spurs  of  the  hill  crowned  with  the 
Fort  V Empereur ;  lastly,  on  the  slope  of  the  Bouzareah  hill,  be- 
tween the  N.W.  suburbs  Bab  el-Oued  and  St.  Eugene,  appears 
Notre-Dame  d'Afrique,  the  mariners'  church.  —  Arrival  in  the 
harbour,  see  p.  217. 

On  the  voyage  from  Marseilles  to  Bougie  the  course  is  more 
easterly,  out  of  sight  of  the  Balearic  Islands.  The  tedium  of  the 
voyage  is  at  length  compensated  for  near  the  Algerian  coast  by  an 
imposing  *View  of  the  mountains  of  Kabylia,  which  after  a  snow- 
fall in  winter  have  quite  an  Alpine  charm.  To  the  W.,  between 
Cape  Sigli  and  Cape  Carbon  (p.  264)  lies  the  abrupt  and  almost 
uninhabited  coast  of  Great  Kabylia,  overtopped  by  the  lofty 
Jebel  Arbalou  (p.  262).    To  the  S.,  behind  the  fine  curved  out- 

Baedkkkr's  Mediterranean.  9 


128     Route  20.  GULP  OF  STOBA. 

line  of  the  Gulf  of  Bougie  (p.  130),  and  beyond  the  plain  of  the 
Soumane  Valley,  rise  the  heights  of  Little  Kabylia,  with  the 
deep  depression  of  the  Agrioun  Valley,  and,  to  the  S.E.,  the  ser- 
rated range  of  Jebel  Tababor  (6460  ft.).  To  the  E.,  beyond  Cape 
Cavallo,  stretches  the  hill-region  of  Djidjelli.  In  the  N.E.  angle 
of  the  bay,  on  the  S.  slope  of  the  Jebel  Gouraya,  but  long  con- 
cealed by  the  three  spurs  of  that  mountain  (Cape  Carbon,  p.  264, 
Cape  Noir,  and  Cape  Bouah,  with  its  lighthouse),  lies  most 
picturesquely  the  quiet  seaport  of  Bougie,  embosomed  in  luxuriant 
evergreen  vegetation  (p.  262). 

The  crossing  to  Philippeville  is  specially  recommended  to  trav- 
ellers bound  for  Biskra  direct,  as  they  thus  avoid  the  long  rail- 
way journey  from  Algiers.  The  broad  Gulf  of  Stora,  with  its 
numerous  headlands  and  creeks  and  its  beautiful  wooded  hills, 
presents  a  charming  picture,  especially  in  spring.  In  the  back- 
ground, in  a  pleasant  creek,  lies  Philippeville  (p.  304).  In  passing 
through  the  outer  harbour  we  obtain  a  good  view  of  the  town. 

On  the  voyage  to  Bona  the  first  land  sighted  on  the  Algerian 
coast  is  the  lofty  Mount  Edough  (3307  ft.;  p.  169),  the  spurs  of 
which  extend  to  the  N.W.  to  the  Cap  de  Fer  (p.  131).  The  steamers 
then  enter  the  Gulf  of  Bona,  bounded  on  the  W.  by  the  Cap  de 
Garde  (lighthouse),  the  N.E.  spur  of  Mt.  Edough,  and  on  the  E. 
by  Cape  Rosa  (p.  131).  On  the  S.  margin  of  the  bay,  above  the 
marshy  alluvial  plain  of  the  Seybouse  and  the  Oued  Mafrag,  rise 
the  peaks  of  the  Tell  Atlas. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  gulf,  between  the  spurs  of  the  Edough, 
lies  Bona  (p.  309),  one  of  the  most  important  and  most  beautiful 
seaports  of  Barbary,  with  rich  verdure  all  around.  Before  enter- 
ing the  grand  harbour,  commanded  by  the  hill  of  the  Kasba,  we 
view  the  Corniche  Road  (p.  311),  while  on  the  low  hill  of  Hippo, 
to  the  S.  of  the  town,  rises  the  church  of  St.  Augustine  (p.  312). 

21.  From  Marseilles  to  Tunis. 

555  M.  Steamboats  (agents  at  Marseilles,  see  p.  120;  at  Tunis,  p.  331). 
1.  North  German  Lloi/d  from  Marseilles  to  Goletta  (Alexandria)  every 
second  Wed.  foren.  (returning  Sat.  even.),  in  3OV2  hrs.  (90-150  or  60  marks). 
—  2.  Comp.  Genirale  Transatlantiqiie.  from  Marseilles  to  Tunis  direct 
(Malta,  R.  63),  Mon.  at  noon  (returning  Frid.  aft.),  in  Sl«/2  hrs.  (96  or  69  fr.) ; 
via  Bizerta  to  Tunis  (Sfax  and  Susa,  R.  64),  Frid.  at  noon  (returning 
Wed.),  in  41  hrs.  (81  or  59  fr.). — 3.  Navigation  Mixte  (To/iache  Co.)  from 
Marseilles  to  Tunis  direct  (Sfax  and  Tripoli,  R.  64),  rapide  mail-steamer 
Wed.  at  noon  (returning  Mon.  afternoon),  in  39  hrs.  (75  or  50  fr.);  cargo- 
boat  via  Bizerta  to  Tunis  (Palermo,  R.  26),  Sat.  evening  (returning  Thurs. 
at  noon),  in  49  hrs.  (60  or  40  fr.). 

Marseilles,  see  p.  119.  —  After  remaining  for  some  time  in 
view  of  the  coast  of  Provence  as  far  as  Cape  Side  (comp.  p.  132), 
the  vessel  steers  to  the  S.E.  and  loses  sight  of  land. 


TUNISIAN  COAST.  2'-  Route.     129 

Off  the  Isola  di  Mai  di  Ventre  we  may  catch  a  glimpse  of  the 
peninsula  of  Sinis,  which  lies  on  the  N.  side  of  the  large  Gulf  of 
Oristano,  on  the  W.  coast  of  Sardinia,  and  at  whose  S.  end  once 
lay  the  Phoenician  colony  of  Tharros.  The  bare  and  monotonous 
hills  of  the  S.W.  coast,  with  the  well-known  lead  and  zinc  mines 
of  the  Iglesiente,  the  region  round  Iglesias,  are  only  visible  in 
clear  weather.  The  steamer  rounds  the  islands  of  San  Pietro  and 
San  Antioco  (p.  118),  with  its  capital  of  the  same  name  on  the  E. 
coast,  occupying  the  site  of  the  Phoenician  Stdci.  We  pass  the  Golfo 
di  Palm  as,  with  the  uninhabited  islets  of  La  Vacca,  R  Vitello, 
and  R  Toro  (p.  118),  and  then  Cape  Teulada  (p.  118),  after  which 
.Sardinia  is  soon  lost  to  view. 

To  the  S.W.  appears  the  distant  He  de  la  Galite  (p.  132) ;  then, 
on  the  coast  of  Tunisia,  we  descry  the  low  spurs  of  the  Tell  Atlas 
(p.  320),  with  the  headlands  of  Eds  el-Koran,  Rds  Engelah  (light- 
house; the  northmost  point  of  the  African  continent),  Cap  Blanc 
(lighthouse ;  the  Promontorium  Candidum  of  antiquity),  and  Cap 
de  Bizerte  or  Cap  Guardia  (853 -ft. ;  lighthouse).  To  the  S.E. 
another  lighthouse  marks  the  rocks  of  'I  Cani'. 

Some  steamers  call  at  Bizerta  (p.  352) ;  the  others  steer  to  the 
left,  past  the  Cani  and  the  island  of  Pilau  (p.  132),  towards  the 
little  lie  Plane  (lighthouse),  which  lies  ofl  Cape  Farina  (Arabic 
Rds  Tarf;  the  ancient  Promontorium  Apollinis),  where  we  come 
in  sight  of  the  broad  Gidf  of  Tunis,  with  the  island  of  Zembra 
(p.  153)  in  the  background. 

We  now  cross  the  Bay  of  Utica  (p.  353)  to  the  S.,  which  since 
ancient  times  has  been  largely  filled  up  with  the  deposits  of  the 
Medjerda  (p.  320),  pass  Cape  Kamart  (p.  351)  and  La  Marsa 
(p.  351),  and  then  reach  the  picturesque  Cape  Carthage  (p.  351), 
with  its  lighthouse  and  the  sea-baths  and  white  houses  of  Sidi  Bou- 
Sa'id.  We  now  enter  the  *Inner  Bay  of  Tunis,  commanded  on  the 
E.  by  Jebel  Korbous  (p.  364)  and  on  the  S.  by  Jebel  Bou-Kornin 
(p.  363),  Jebel  Ressas  (p.  358),  and  Jebel  Zaghouan  (p.  359);  we 
pass  close  to  the  castle-hill  of  Carthage  (p.  344),  crowned  with  the 
cathedral,  the  sea-baths  of  Le  Kram,  IOiereddine,  and  Goulette 
Neuve  (p.  344),  and  reach  Goletta  (or  La  Goulette;  p.  343),  a 
small  seaport,  situated  on  the  tongue  of  laud  separating  the  Lac 
de  Tunis  or  Lac  Bahira  (p.  332)  from  the  open  sea. 

The  steamer  here  enters  the  canal,  5^2  M.  long,  110  yds.  wide, 
and  about  20  ft.  deep,  constructed  across  the  lake  in  1893,  where 
we  have  a  good  view  of  the  white  houses  of  Tunis.  On  the  right 
lies  the  island  of  Chikly,  with  relics  of  a  castle  built  by  Emp. 
Charles  V.  The  surface  of  the  lake  is  sometimes  enlivened  by 
flamingoes.  The  steamer,  at  half-speed,  takes  another  hour  to  reach 
Tunis  (p.  329). 

9* 


130 


22.  Prom  Algiers  to  Tunis  by  Sea. 

432  M.  Steamers  (touching  at  intermediate  ports,  469  M. ;  agents  at 
Algiers,  see  p.  219;  at  Bougie,  p.  262;  at  Philippeville,  p.  304;  at  Tunis, 
p.  331).  1.  Comp.  Generate  Transatlantique,  cargo-hoat  Wed.  evening, 
via  Bougie,  Djidjelli,  Collo,  Philippeville,  Bona,  La  Calle,  Tabarca,  and 
Bizerta,  arrives  at  Tunis  Sun.  aft.  (returning  Sat.  noon,  arrives  at  Algiers 
Wed.  morn.);  100  or  80  fr. ;  pier-dues  at  Tunis  4  or  3  fr.  —  2.  German 
Levant  Line,  twice  or  thrice  a  month,  generally  calling  at  La  Calle. — 
3.  Hungarian  Adria  Co.,  cargo-boat  twice  a  month  to  Tunis  direct. 

Or  the  voyage  may  be  pleasantly  divided  as  follows  :  Marseilles  steamer 
of  Comp.  Gin.  Transatlantique  from  Algiers  to  Bougie  (Frid.  evening;  in 
10  hrs. ;  25  or  18  fr.) ;  Marseilles  steamer  of  Transports  Maritimes  Co. 
from  Bougie  to  Philippeville  (Tues.  afternoon ;  in  12  hrs. ;  18  or  12  fr.) ;  Mar- 
seilles steamer  of  Navigation  Mixte  from  Philippeville  to  Bona  (Sat.  fore- 
noon ;  in  5  hrs.;  10  or  8  fr.);  from  Bona  to  Bizerta,  by  cargo-boat  as  above, 
or  by  railway;  from  Bizerta  to  Tunis  by  Marseilles  steamer  of  the  C'omp. 
Gin.  Transatlantique  (p.  128;  Sat.  night;  in  5  hrs. ;  15  or  12  fr.).  — The 
small  coasting  steamers  of  Prosper  Durand  of  Marseilles  and  of  the 
Lignes  Cotieres  Algiriennes,  which  call  at  most  of  the  ports  as  far  as 
Bona,  can  only  be  recommended  for  short  voyages  by  daylight. 

The  coast  scenery  between  Algiers  and  Tunis  is  exceedingly  pictur- 
esque and  varied,  but  the  voyage  is  often  very  trying  for  bad  sailors. 
Storms  are  most  frequent  between  Djidjelli  and  Collo,  and  between  La 
Calle  and  Bizerta,  and  fogs  are  not  uncommon,  even  in  summer. 

Algiers,  see  p.  217.  As  the  steamer  leaves  the  harbour  a  beauti- 
ful *View  is  obtained  astern  of  the  town  and  of  the  coast  as  far  as 
the  Pointe  Pescade  (comp.  p.  127).  Beyond  Cape  Matifou  the 
coast,  overlooked  by  the  serrated  Jebel  Bou-Zegza  (p.  249),  recedes 
for  a  time  from  view. 

Near  Jebel  Djinet  (p.  253),  beyond  the  sand-hills  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Isser  (p.  253),  begins  the  bold  rock-bound  coast  of  Great 
Kabylia,  87  M.  in  length,  with  its  headlands  and  cliffs  worn  by 
the  surf,  its  secluded  little  seaports,  and  its  hill-sides  carefully  cul- 
tivated by  the  natives. 

"We  pass  the  mouth  of  the  Sebaou  (p.  253),  the  largest  stream 
in  Kabylia,  and  Cape  Bengut  (p.  254),  which  affords  scanty  pro- 
tection against  the  W.  winds  to  the  port  of  Dellys  (p.  254) ;  then 
Tigzirt  (p.  255),  Cape  Tedless,  and  Port  Gueydon  or  Azeffoun 
(lighthouse),  with  its  roadstead  open  towards  the  W.  Next  comes 
the  wildest  and  loneliest  part  of  the  coast,  between  Cape  Corbelin 
and  Cape  Carbon ;  we  pass  Cape  Sigli,  the  Pointe  Timri  n'  Tguerfa, 
where  Jebel  Arbalou  (p.  262)  comes  in  sight,  and  Cape  Boulima. 

Beyond  the  little  lie  Pisan  or  Djeribia,  overlooked  by  the  steep 
slopes  of  Jebel  Gouraya  (p.  265),  the  steamer  rounds  Cape  Carbon 
(p.  264),  passes  Cape  Noir  and  Cape  Bouak,  and  enters  the  har- 
bour of  Bougie  (p.  262). 

The  *Gulf  of  Bougie,  in  winter  the  finest  part  of  this  coast, 
presents  many  superb  scenes  (comp.  128),  notably  as  we  look  back 
at  the  town  of  Bougie  climbing  the  slope  of  Jebel  Gouraya. 

Near  Cape.  Cavallo,  in  the  E.  part  of  Little  Kabylia,  the  sum- 


COLLO.  22.  Route.     131 

mits  of  Jebel  Hadid  (4780  ft.)  and  Msid  Echta  (5072  ft.)  are 
specially  prominent.  We  next  pass  the  curiously  shaped  hill  in  the 
Tie  du  Grand-Carallo,  the  Petit- Cav alio,  and  the  headland  Rds 
Afia  (lighthouse),  and  reach  the  little  seaport  of — 

Djidjelli  (p.  267),  pleasantly  situated  at  the  foot  of  green  hills, 
where  the  steamers  anchor  in  the  open  roads  (landing  or  embarka- 
tion 1/2  fr.).   If  time  permit,  the  Vigie  should  be  visited. 

The  vessel  now  steers  to  the  N.E.  at  some  distance  from  the 
coast;  we  pass  the  mouths  of  the  Oued  Nil  and  the  Oued  el-Kebir, 
the  ancient  boundary  between  Mauretania  and  Numidia,  and  then 
the  Rds  Alia  (lighthouse).  Fine  view  of  the  Bougaroun  Mts.,  com- 
monly called  SaJwl  de  Collo,  famed  for  their  forest  of  cork-trees. 

Near  Cape  Bougaroun  or  Bougaroni  (lighthouse),  the  north- 
most  point  of  Algeria,  opens  the  broad  Gulf  of  Stora  (p.  128), 
bounded  on  the  E.  by  the  Cap  de  Fer  (see  below).  On  the  W.  bank 
11!'  the  gulf,  in  the  little  Bay  of  Collo,  and  between  the  penin- 
sula of  Djerda  (lighthouse)  and  the  Rds  Frao,  lies  the  small  sea- 
port of  — 

Collo  (Grand-Hotel,  poor),  important  only  for  the  export  of 
cork,  the  ancient  Chullu  or  Colonia  Minervia  Chullu,  one  of  the 
four  Colonise  Cirtenses  (p.  298),  in  a  fertile  hill-region.  From 
Hie  harbour  (landing  or  embarkation  30  c.)  we  walk  round  the 
•' l'liiinsula,  planted  with  vines  and  cacti,  and  overgrown  on  the 
N.  side  with  underwood,  and  affording  splendid  views  of  the  gulf. 

Steering  to  the  E.  we  now  skirt  the  coast,  where  the  Cape  El- 
Kalaa  or  Rds  Bibi  (535  ft.),  rising  abruptly  on  both  sides,  spec- 
ially strikes  the  eye,  and  pass  the  Pointe  Esrah  and  the  bay  of  that 
name.  By  the  islet  of  Sgrigina  (lighthouse),  which  lies  in  front  of 
the  Pointe  AJemes  or  Sgrigina,  opens  the  Inner  Bay  of  Stora, 
bounded  by  Jebel  Filfda,  a  mountain  rich  in  marble,  while  in  the 
background  lies  the  harbour  of  Philippeville  (p.  304). 

On  the  N.E.  margin  of  the  gulf,  beyond  the  plain  of  the  Oued 
fl-lubir,  with  its  border  of  sand-hills,  rise  the  spurs  of  Mont 
Edough  (p.  128).  The  steamer  next  rounds  the  almost  insular  Cap 
de  Fer  (1148  ft.;  lighthouse),  where  we  again  view  the  whole  ex- 
panse of  the  gulf,  and  passes  Cape  Toukouch,  which  shelters  the 
bay  of  Herbillon  (lighthouse)  from  the  W.  and  N.W.  winds.  "We 
now  steer  to  the  E.S.E.,  past  the  bare  Jebel  Gouari  (1880  ft.), 
Cape  Axin,  and  the  dark  rock  of  the  Voile  Noire  (213  ft.),  towards 
the  Cap  de  Garde  (p.  128),  which  projects  in  front  of  the  gulf  of 
Bona. 

Three  hours'  steaming  from  Bona,  past  the  low  Cape  Rosa, 
whose  light  is  seen  30  M.  away,  brings  us  to  the  open  roads  of 
La  Calle  (hotel),  where  landing  is  impossible  in  rough  weather. 

Beyond  the  rock  of  Kef  Mechtob  (591  ft.),  and  a  little  short  of 
Cape  Roux,  which  is  crowned  with  a  ruined  tower,  and  like  Cape 


132     Route  2a.  LA  GALITE. 

Rosa  was  once  famed  for  its  coral-reefs,  runs  the  frontier  of  Tu- 
nisia. The  wooded  hills  rising  abruptly  from  the  sea  belong  to  the 
region  of  the  Kroumirie  (p.  326),  so  often  mentioned  in  the  recent 
history  of  the  country. 

Tabarca  (p.  327),  the  next  port,  lies  picturesquely  in  a  bay 
behind  the  island  of  Tabarca  with  its  ruined  Genoese  castle. 

Again  steering  to  the  N.E.  we  pass  a  range  of  high  sand-hills 
and  the  mouth  of  the  Oued  Zouara,  where  we  have  a  glimpse  of 
the  Nefza  Mis.  (p.  328). 

Off  Cape  Negro  appears  in  clear  weather  the  coral-girt  lie  de 
la  Galite  (1290  ft.),  the  Calatha  of  antiquity,  about  24  M.  to  the 
N.W.  of  Cape  Serrat  (lighthouse),  where  the  ramifications  of  the 
Mogod  Mts.  approach  the  coast. 

Beyond  the  cliffs  of  the  two  Fratelli  and  the  Rds  al-Dukara 
we  round  the  Bizerta  Hills,  the  northmost  part  of  the  African 
coast,  with  the  four  headlands  Rds  el-Koran,  Rds  Engelah,  Cape 
Blanc,  and  Cape  de  Bizerte  (p.  129).  As  we  near  the  bay  of 
Bizerta  (p.  352),  fringed  with  low  olive-clad  hills,  we  descry,  far 
to  the  S.W.,  the  Jebel  Ichkeul  (p.  352). 

Steaming  farther  to  the  E.,  we  observe  the  Card  (p.  129)  on  the 
left,  and  pass  Rds  Zebib,  where  the  green  island  of  Pilau  (377  ft.) 
becomes  visible  in  the  foreground.  To  the  right,  on  the  N.  slope 
of  Jebel  Nadour  (p.  354),  covered  far  up  with  sea-sand,  lies  the 
highly  picturesque  Arab  village  of  Metlineh. 

For  the  voyage  from  Cape  Farina  to  Tunis,  see  p.  129. 


23.  Prom  Marseilles  to  Naples. 

512  (via  Genoa  615)  M.  Steamboat  Lines.  1.  Orient  Royal  3Iail  fort- 
nightly, on  the  way  from  London  to  Port  Said.  —  2.  North  German  Lloyd, 
for  Naples  and  Alexandria,  Wed.  afternoon,  in  33  hrs.  (100  or  70  marks) ; 
for  Genoa,  Naples,  Catania,  Piraeus,  Smyrna,  Constantinople  (Odessa, 
Batum)  every  other  Frid.  afternoon,  in  3  days  (80  or  56  marks).  —  3.  German 
East  African,  to  Naples  (and  Port  Said)  every  third  Sat.  in  2  days,  returning 
from  Naples  every  third  Wed.  (80  or  60  marks).  —4.  Messageries  Maritimes, 
to  Naples  (Pirasus,  Smyrna,  Constantinople,  Beirut,  RR.  77,  80,  75)  every 
second  Thurs.  (100  or  70  fr.).  —  5.  Chargeurs  Re'unis  (Tour  du  Monde), 
twice  quarterly  via  Genoa  to  Naples  (Colombo,  E.  Asia,  San  Francisco,  etc.). 
—  6.  Hungarian  Adria  Co.,  cargo-boats,  Sun.  forenoon,  via  Genoa  to  Naples 
in  4  days  (Palermo,  Malta);  also  Wed.  afternoon  to  Nice,  Genoa,  and 
Naples  in  4>/2  days  (Palermo,  Messina);  fare,  without  food,  42  fr.  —  The 
steamers  of  the  P.  &  O.  and  Rotterdam  Lloyd  companies  go  from  Marseilles 
to  Port  Said  direct. 

Marseilles,  and  departure  from  its  harbour,  see  p.  119. 

The  steamers  run  to  the  E.S.E.,  between  Cap  Croisette  and  the 
Re  du  Planter  (p.  119),  past  the  Re  Maire,  lie  Jarros,  and  Re 
Rio  to  the  Straits  of  Bonifacio.  Fine  view  of  the  richly  varied  coast 
of  Provence,  as  far  as  the  peninsula  of  Cape  Side,  with  the  bays 
of  Cassis  and  La  Ciotat,  the  latter  of  which  is  overlooked  by  the 


STRAITS  OF  BONIFACIO.       ™  Route.     133 

rock  called  the  Bee  de  VAigle.  In  the  background,  beyond  the  bare 
limestone  rocks  on  the  coast,  appears  the  Chaine  de  la  Ste.  Baurne 
(3786  ft.),  famed  for  its  ancient  forest,  the  property  of  the  state. 
Beyond  Cape  Sicie  and  the  Bay  of  Toulon,  we  pass  the  steep  rocky 
S.  coast  of  Porquerolles  (lighthouse),  the  largest  and  westmost  of 
the  lies  d'Hyeres,  the  ancient  Stoechades  Insulae. 

After  a  sail  of  several  hours  more  Corsica  (p.  143),  with  its 
high  mountains,  is  sighted  towards  theE.  In  the  distance  lies  the 
Bay  of  Ajaccio,  where  at  night  the  lights  on  the  Res  Sanguinairea 
may  be  descried.  "We  next  pass  the  Gulf  of  Valinco,  and  at  Cape 
Aquila  or  Senetosa  (lighthouse)  we  approach  the  S.W.  coast  of 
Corsica,  fringed  with  numerous  bays  and  creeks.  Off  the  rocks 
called  Les  Moines  (Monad)  we  sight,  to  the  left,  the  Montagne 
de  Cagna  (4518  ft.),  which  is  usually  covered  with  snow  in  winter. 

The  passage  of  the  * Straits  of  Bonifacio,  between  Corsica  and 
Sardinia,  is  very  beautiful  when  the  light  is  favourable.  At  the 
narrowest  part,  between  Cape  Pertusato  and  Punta  del  Falcone, 
they  are  7  M.  wide.  Between  the  lighthouses  of  Capo  di  Feno 
and  Capo  Pertusato,  amid  fissured  limestone  rocks  honeycombed 
with  caverns,  rises  a  headland  crowned  with  the  grey  old  Genoese 
citadel  and  the  white  houses  of  Bonifacio.  Opposite  to  it,  on  the 
N.  coast  of  Sardinia,  is  the  peninsula  of  Capo  Testa,  and  near  the 
Punta  del  Falcone  lies  the  narrow  Bay  ofLongo  Sardo,  with  the 
little  port  of  Santa  Teresa  di  Gallura.  Beyond  the  town  rise  the 
hills  of  the  Gallura  in  terraces,  stretching  far  away  to  the  Monti 
di  Limbara  (4469  ft.).  On  the  S.E.  the  horizon  is  bounded  by  a 
girdle  of  granitic  islands  and  rocks,  the  Insulae  Cuniculariae 
('rabbit-islands')  of  Pliny,  which  imperil  navigation,  especially  as 
they  are  washed  with  a  strong  current  from  the  Tyrrhenian  Sea. 

The  steamers  pass  through  the  Bocca  Grande,  between  the 
lighthouses  on  the  French  island  of  Lavezzi  and  the  Italian  Isola 
del  Iiazzoli.  To  the  right,  beyond  the  islets  of  Santa  Maria  and 
Isola  dei  Budelli,  appears  the  island  of  Maddalena,  on  which 
rise  a  signalling  station  and  the  fort  of  Guardia  Vecchia  (545  ft.). 
This  island,  the  largest  of  the  group,  is  connected  with  its  neigh- 
bours Santo  Stefano  and  Caprera  (696  ft. ;  once  the  residence  of 
Garibaldi;  d.  1882)  by  roads  built  on  embankments,  and  has  been 
converted  into  one  of  the  strongest  fortresses  on  the  Mediterranean 
in  emulation  of  Porto  Vecchio  in  Corsica  and  of  Bizerta.  Beyond 
Caprera,  and  adjoining  the  deeply  indented  Bay  of  Arsachena, 
appears  the  reddish  Capo  di  Ferro,  the  N.W.  point  of  Sardinia. 

We  now  steer  across  the  Tyrrhenian  Sea  to  the  E.S.E.  towards 
the  Ponza  Islands  (p.  xxxi).  We  first  pass  the  volcanic  N.W.  group, 
Palmarola  (the  ancient  Palmaria),  Ponza  (929  ft.;  Pontiae,  once 
a  Roman  colony),  with  the  lighthouse  of  Punta  della  Guardia,  and 
Zannone  (Siaonia).   Beyond  La  Botte,  a  rock  dreaded  by  sailors, 


134     Route  24.  RIVIERA  DI  LEVANTE.  From  Genoa 

begins  the  S.E.  group,  first  Ventotene,  the  well-known  Pandateria 
of  the  Romans,  to  which  Julia,  Agrippina,  and  Octavia  were  ban- 
ished, and  then  the  islet  of  Santo  Stefano  (lighthouse). 

In  the  distance  appear  the  Monte  Epomeo  and  the  lighthouse 
on  the  Punta  Imperatore  in  the  island  of  Ischia  (p.  118).  Ap- 
proach to  the  Bay  of  Naples,  see  p.  135. 

From  Naples  to  Alexandria  and  Port  Said,  see  R.  67;  to  Athens 
(Smyrna,  and  Constantinople),  see  R.  77. 

24.   From  Genoa  to  Naples. 

387  M.  Steamboat  Lines  (agents  at  Genoa,  see  p.  114;  at  Naples, 
p.  137).  1.  Canard  (New  York  and  Trieste  Line),  once  monthly  to  Naples. 
—  2.  White  Star  (for  New  York  or  Boston),  once  monthly  to  Naples  (SI. 
58.).  —  3.  North  German  Lloyd  (for  New  York),  two  or  three  times  a  month, 
in  21  hrs. ;  also  (for  Port  Said)  every  second  Thurs.  to  Naples,  in  about 
24  hrs. ;  also  Mediterranean-Levant  Service  (for  Catania,  Piraeus,  Smyrna, 
Constantinople;  RR.  23,  27,  77,  80),  every  second  Sat.,  in  about  26  hrs.  (70.40 
or  48.20  marks).  —  4.  Hamburg- American  (for  New  York),  once  or  twice 
monthly  to  Naples  (80  fr.).  —  5.  Societa  Nazionale:  Line  XX  every  Wed. 
night  to  Naples  (and  Messina,  etc.;  circular  trip,  comp.  p.  142)  in  33  his. 
(52  or  34  fr.);  Lines  V,  X,  &  XI  every  Mon.  and  Tues.  to  Leghorn  and 
Naples  in  42-48  hrs.  (63  or  42  fr.);  Line  I  monthly  to  Naples  (for  Port  Said 
and  Bombay).  —  6.  La  Veloce,  to  Naples  (for  Teneriffe  and  S.  America), 
comp.  p.  114.  —  7.  Lloyd  Sabaudo,  1-3  times  monthly  to  Naples  (Palermo 
and  New  York).  —  8.  Italian  Lloyd,  1-3  times  monthly  to  Naples  and 
New  York.  —  9.  Hungarian  Adria  Co.  (comp.  R.  23),  Tues.  ana  Sat.,  to 
Naples  in  36  hrs. ;  fare,  without  food,  24  fr. 

Genoa,  see  p.  113.  In  departing  we  survey  in  clear  weather 
the  whole  of  the  *Gulf  of  Genoa.  On  the  left  lies  the  Riviera  di 
Levante,  as  far  as  the  Monte  di  Porto fino  (2000  ft. ;  p.  117) ;  on 
the  right  are  the  Ligurian  Alps,  snow-capped  in  winter,  and  the 
Riviera  di  Ponente  as  far  as  Cape  Mele  (p.  113). 

The  vessel  steers  for  the  island  of  Gorgona  (see  below),  passing 
Monte  di  Portofino  at  a  distance  of  6  or  7  M.,  and  then  gradually 
leaves  the  coast;  the  last  place  visible  is  Chiavari  on  the  beautiful 
Bay  of  Rapallo.  Beyond  the  headland  of  Punta  del  Mesco,  where 
the  slopes  of  the  Cinque  Terre,  a  famous  wine-country,  descend 
abruptly  to  the  sea,  appear  the  rocky  islet  of  Tino  (302  ft. ;  light- 
house) and  the  fortified  island  of  Palmdria  (614  ft.),  at  the  S.  point 
of  the  Gulf  of  Spezia.  The  distant  pinnacles  of  the  Apuan  Alps 
are  seen  in  clear  weather.  Of  Leghorn  (p.  143),  where  some  of  the 
Italian  steamers  call,  the  lights  only  are  visible  at  night. 

The  islands  of  Gorgona  and  Capraia  (p.  143)  lie  on  the  right ; 
behind  the  latter  sometimes  peep  the  mountains  of  Corsica  (p.  143). 
From  the  Ligurian  we  now  pass  into  the  Tyrrhenian  Sea,  either 
through  the  Strait  of  Piombino,  between  the  port  of  Piombino  and 
the  rocky  islet  of  Palmaiola,  or  through  the  Palmaiola  Strait, 
between  that  islet  (lighthouse)  and  Elba  (p.  143).  By  Follonica, 
near  Piombino,  some  furnaces,  where  iron  from  Elba  is  smelted, 
gleam  through  the  night.    Beyond  the  Bay  of  Portoferraio  and 


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to  Naples.  NAPLES.  24.  Route.     135 

Capo  della  Vita,  the  N.E.  point  of  Elba,  are  seen  near  Rio  Marina 
the  reddish-black  hills  where  the  iron-ore  comes  to  the  surface. 
Farther  to  the  S.  is  seen  the  depression  of  the  bay  of  Porto  Longone. 

The  Promontory  of  Castiglione,  in  the  midst  of  the  marshy 
Maremma  Toscana,  and  the  small  group  of  the  islands  of  For- 
miche  di  Grosseto  remain  some  way  to  the  left.  The  steamer  then 
passes  through  a  strait  between  the  steep  headland  of  Monte  Argen- 
tario  (2083  ft.)  and  the  island  of  Giglio  (1634  ft.),  each  with  its 
lighthouse.    On  the  right  lies  the  islet  of  Giannutri  (305  ft.). 

Steering  towards  the  seaport  of  Civitavecchia  and  CapeLinaro, 
we  see  the  distant  Maremma  di  Roma,  backed  by  the  volcanic 
Tolfa  Mts.  (2011  ft.).  Above  the  Roman  Campagna  rise  the 
Sabine  and  Alban  Mts.,  followed  by  the  Volscian  Mts.  (Monti 
Lepini)  and  the  Monte  Circeo  (1775  ft.)  in  the  Pontine  Marshes. 
Farther  on,  we  obtain  a  glimpse  of  Terracina,  the  distant  hills 
on  the  Gulf  of  Gaeta,  and,  to  the  S.W.,  the  Ponza  Islands  (p.  133). 

In  the  foreground  we  next  sight  Vesuvius  and  the  island  of 
Ischia  with  Monte  Epomeo  (2589  ft.),  by  which  Capri  is  at  first 
concealed.  The  steamers  usually  pass  between  Ischia  and  Procida, 
but  sometimes  through  the  Strati  of  Procida,  between  that  island 
and  Cape  Miseno.  The  *Bay  of  Naples,  which  we  now  survey  in 
its  lull  expanse,  from  the  Bay  of  Pozzuoli  and  the  hill  of  Posilipo 
to  the  Peninsula  of  Sorrento  (p.  154),  is  strikingly  picturesque. 

Naples.  —  Akkival  by  Sea.  The  Mediterranean  and  New  York 
steamers  of  the  North  German  Lloyd  and  those  of  the  Society  Nazionale  are 
berthed  at  the  Immacolatella  Nuova  (PI.  Q-,  H,  5).  Passengers  by  other 
steamers  are  landed  at  that  quay  by  boat,  those  from  the  Lloyd  and  Orient 
Royal  Lines  free  of  charge  by  steam-tender  or  boat  respectively,  from 
others  by  rowing-boat  (1  fr.,  with  luggage,  but  bargain  advisable).  Travel- 
lers should  be  on  their  guard  against  boatmen  wearing  the  jerseys  of  well- 
known  steamboat-lines  though  not  employed  by  these  companies.  Porter 
(facchino)  for  small  valise  40,  trunk  80  c. 

The  Railway  Station  (Stazione  Centrale,  PI.  H,  3)  lies  at  the  E. 
end  of  the  city,  12  min.  from  the  Immacolatella  Nuova  (see  above),  and 
llraU  M.  from  most  of  the  hotels.  Here  arrive  all  the  express  trains  from 
the  north,  such  as  those  from  Verona  (I8V2-201/4  hrs.),  from  Milan  (17  hrs.), 
from  Turin  (17I/-2-22I/2  hrs.),  and  from  Venice  (20  hrs.).  As  the  delivery 
of  luggage  is  a  slow  process,  the  traveller  who  is  willing  to  pay  some- 
what more  may  drive  straight  to  his  hotel  without  it,  and  have  it  sent 
later.     Porter  (facchino)  for  each  small  package  15,  for  each  trunk  25  c. 

Hotels  (often  full  in  spring).  Of  the  very  first  class:  *Bertolini's 
Palace  Hotel  (PI.  p;  C,  61,  in  the  Parco  Grifeo  (with  lift  from  the  Corso 
Vittorio  Emanuele;  245  ft.),  R.  from  6  (Jan. -May  10)  fr.,  B.  2,  dej.  5, 
D.  8  fr. ;  *Excelsior  (PI.  0;  F,  7),  Via  Partenope  24,  R.  from  6,  B.  2,  dej.  5, 
D.  7  fr.,  new;  *Grand-HOtel  (PI.  d;  B,  7),  Piazza  Principe  di  Napoli,  near 
the  sea,  at  the  W.  end  of  the  Villa  Nazionale  (p.  141),  R.  from  6,  B.  l3/4, 
dej.  4'/ai  D.  7  fr.  —  In  the  higher  quarters,  with  beautiful  views:  Corso 
Vittorio  Emanuele  168,  *Bristol  (PI.  a;  D,  6),  R.  from  4,  B.  V/2,  dej.  4, 
D.  6fr. ;  No.  135,  *Pai:ker's  (PI.  b;  C,  6),  R.  5-10,  B.  l'/2,  dej.  3«/a>  D-  5Vsfr.; 
adjacent,  No.  133,  *Macpherson's  H6t.  Britannique  (PI.  q;  C,  6),  R~.  4-6 
(.Tan. -April,  5-8)  fr.,  B.  V/.,,  dej.  3'/a,  D.  5  fr. ;  *Grand  Eden  (PI.  u;  O,  6), 
Parco  Margherita  1,  R.  from  5,  B.  l>/2,  dej.  4,  D.  5>/2  fr. ;  Bellevite  (Pl.t; 
C,  6),  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  142,  R.  3'/2-4Va,  B.  l'/a,  d<5j.  3,  D.  4  fr. 


136     Route  24.  NAPLES.  Practical 

In  the  lower  quarters.  —  Via  Partenope,  facing  the  sea:  No.  23,  *Gr.- 
H6t.  Santa  Lucia  (PI.  m;  F,  7),  R.  from  5,  B.  V/2,  ddj.  4,  D.  6  fr. ;  No.  22, 
*Gr.-H6t.  du  Vesuve  (PI.  g;  E,  7),  R.  from  6,  B.  l'/2,  dej.  4,  D.  6  fr. ;  *Gr.- 
Hot.  Victoria  (PI.  v;  E,  7),  R.  from  5,  B.  l»/g,  ddj.  4,  D.  6  fr.;  No.  14, 
*Royal  dbs  Etrangers  (PI.  i;  E,  7),  R.  from  6,  B.  li/a,  dej.  4,  D.  6  fr. 
Piazza  del  Municipio  (convenient  for  passing  travellers):  *Gr.-H6L  db 
Londres  (PI.  1;  F,  6),  R.  from  5,  B.  V/2,  dej.  3>/2,  D.  5  fr.  Overlooking 
the  sea,  Via  Partenope  and  Strada  Chiatamone  55,  Hassler  (PI.  k;  E,  7), 
R.  5-10,  B.  li/g,  dej.  3'/2,  D.  5  fr.,  good;  Via  Caracciolo  15,  Savoy  (PL  r; 
B,  7),  R.  from  4,  B.  IV  2,  ddj.  4,  D.  5  fr.  Riviera  di  Chiaia  (PI.  D,  C, 
B,  7),  with  view  of  the  Villa  Nazionale  and  the  sea:  No.  276,  *Gr. 
Bretagne  &  Angleterre  (PI.  e;  D,  7),  R.  from  4,  B.  l'/g,  dej.  3J/.,,  D. 
5  fr.  —  By  the  sea,  Via  Partenope  20,  *Continental  (PI.  c;  E,  7),  R.  'Allr1, 
B.  lVgi  ddj.  3,  D.  472  fr.  Strada  Medina  76  (convenient  for  passing  tra- 
vellers), Isotta  &  Geneve  (PL  s ;  F,  5),  R.  4'/2-6,  B.  l»/2,  dej.  3,  D.  4'/2  fr. 
By  the  sea,  entrance  Strada  Chiatamone  59,  Metropole  &  Ville  (PL  h; 
E,  7),  R.  from  4,  B.  174,  ddj.  3Va,  D.  3-4'/2  fr.,  good.  Riviera  di  Chiaia  127, 
with  view  of  the  Villa  Nazionale  and  the  sea,  Riviera  (PL  f ;  C,  7),  R. 
3-4,  B.  l'/2)  ddj.  3'/2i  D-  5  fr.,  good.  Strada  Santa  Lucia  37,  Eldorado 
Modern  (PL  x;  E,  7),  R.  from  3,  B.  l>/g,  ddj.  3,  D.  4  f r. 

Unpretending:  La  Patria  (PL  w;  F  5)  Via  Guglielmo  Sanfelice  47, 
R.  31/2-5  fr.,  good;  Hot.  de  Naples,  Corso  Umberto  Primo  55,  R.  4-5  fr. ; 
Hot.  Milan  &  Schweizerhop,  Piazza  del  Municipio  84,  R.  3-4  fr.,  Russie 
(PL  n;  F,  7),  Strada  Santa  Lucia  82,  R.  gi/r8Va£r.,  both  plain. 

Restaurants  {Rietoranti,  Trattorie;  Italian  style,  a  la  carte).  Giar- 
dini  Internazionali,  Via  Roma,  entrance  Vico  Tre  Re  60,  good  cuisine; 
Giardini  di  Torino,  Via  Roma  292;  Ristorante  Milanese,  Galleria  Um- 
berto Primo,  N.  Italian  cookery;  Scotto  Jonno,  Galleria  Principe  di  Napoli 
(PL  F,  3),  ddj.  2  fr.,  Nic.  Esposito,  Salita  del  Museo  62  (these  two  suitable 
for  visitors  to  the  Museum);  Renzo  e  Lucia,  Mira  Napoli,  both  at  the 
terminus  of  tramway-line  Nr.  7  (for  visitors  to  San  Martino);  Ristorante 
Bella  Vista  (p.  142),  on  the  hill  of  Posilipo. — Beer.  *Pilsener  UrqueU, 
Strada  Santa  Brigida  36;  Bavaria,  Galleria  Umberto  Primo,  opposite  the 
Teatro  San  Carlo,  good. 

Caf6s.  Gambrinus,  Piazza  San  Ferdinando,  also  restaurant,  Calzona, 
Galleria  Umberto  Primo,  at  both  evening  concerts;  Nazionale,  Villa 
Nazionale  (p.  141),  near  the  Aquarium.  —  Tea  Rooms.  Galleria  Vittoria 
(PL  E,  7),  open  3-8  p.m.  only,  fashionable;  Via  Domenico  Morelli  8  (PL 
E,  7);  Strada  di  Chiaia  143  (Caflish,  confectioner). — Bars,  numerous  in 
Via  Roma. 

Taximeter  Cabs.  All  the  fares  given  below  are  for  drives  within 
the  city;  charges  for  drives  outside  the  city  at  any  time  of  day  are  the 
same  as  the  night-fares  given  below. 

a.  By  Day:  Open  one-horse  carriage  (for  2  pers.,  or  3  at  most),  for 
the  first  1500  metres  (ca.  1  M.)  or  12  min.  waiting  40  c,  for  each  additional 
500  m.  or  4  min.  waiting  10  c.  (two-horse  carr.,  for  4-6  pers.,  60  and  20  c). 
Closed  one-horse  carriage  ('coupd'),  for  the  first  1200  m.  (ca.  3/4  M.)  or 
12  min.  waiting  50  c,  each  addit.  400  m.  or  4  min.  waiting  10  c.  Motor 
Cab,  for  the  first  1000  m.  or  12'/2  min.  waiting  80  c,  each  addit.  200  m. 
or  2V2  min.  waiting  10  c;  each  addit.  pers.  above  three  40  c.  —  b.  By 
Night  (midnight  to  dawn):  Open  one-horse  carriage  for  the  first  1200  m. 
or  12  min.  waiting  40  c,  each  addit.  400  m.  or  4  min.  waiting  10  c.  (two- 
horse  carr.  60  and  20  c).  Closed  one-horse  carriage  for  the  first  1000  m. 
or  12  min.  waiting  50  c,  each  addit.  333'/3  m.  (ca.  365  yds.)  or  4  min. 
waiting  10  c.  Motor  Cab,  for  the  first  1000  m.  or  12>/2  min.  waiting  80  c, 
each  addit.  100  m.  (ca.  110  yds.)  or  2  min.  waiting  10  c. ;  each  pers.  above 
three  80  c. 

Luggage  up  to  25  kilos  (55  lbs.)  10  c.,  up  to  50  kilos  20  c;  small 
articles  free.  —  In  order  to  avoid  misunderstandings  the  driver  should 
be  asked  to  repeat  the  given  direction  before  starting.  The  numerous 
tramways  and  omnibuses  will  generally  enable  the  traveller  to  dispense 
with  cabs. 


Notes.  NAPLES.  24.  Route.     137 

Tramways  (numbered;  fare  15-40  c,  5  c.  less  in  2nd  class;  cars  stop 
regularly  at  stations  called  sezione,  and  when  required  at  those  bearing 
the  name  fermata). 

Chief  lines:  1.  Piazza  Sette  Settembre  (in  front  of  Spirito  Santo;  PI. 
E,  4;  Via  Roma,  p.  139)  to  the  Posta  (PI.  F,  5),  Piazza  del  Municipio,  Piazza 
San  Ferdinando,  Largo  della  Vittoria  (PI.  D,  7),  Torretta  (PI.  B,  7),  and 
Strada  Nuova  di  Posilipo  (p.  142).  —  4.  National  Museum  (PI.  E,  F,  3; 
p.  139)  to  the  Piazza  Cavour,  Central  Station  (PI.  H,  3;  p.  135),  Castel 
del  Carmine  (PI.  H,  4),  Strada  Nuova  (PI.  G,  H,  5),  Strada  del  Piliero,  and 
Piazza  del  Municipio;  thence  as  No.  1  to  the  Toretta. —  6.  Piazza  Dante 
(PI.  E,  F,  4;  p.  139)  to  National  Museum,  Via  Salvator  Rosa  (PI.  E,  3), 
Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  (p.  141),  and  Torretta  (PI.  B,  7).— 7.  Piazza  Dante 
to  National  Museum,  Via  Salvator  Ro9a,  Antignano  (PI.  B,  C,  4;  p.  142),  and 
Castel  SanV  Elmo  (PI.  D,  5;  by  San  Martino,  p.  141).— 11.  Piazza  San 
Ferdinando  (PI.  E,  6),  to  Strada  del  Piliero,  Strada  Nuova  (PI.  F,  G,  5,  6; 
harbour),  Via  del  Duomo  (PI.  G,  F,  4,  3),  and  Strada  delle  V&rgini  (PI.  F,  3). 

Funiculars  (every  10-20  min. ;  up  20  or  15,  down  15  or  10  c). 
1.  Funicolare  di  C'hiaia,  Parco  Margherita  (PI.  C,  6),  to  Corso  Vittorio 
Emanuele  and  Via  Cimarosa  (PI.  C,  5).  —  2.  Funicolare  di  Monte  Santo 
to  Strada  Monte  Santo  (PI.  E,  4;  4  min.  from  Piazza  Dante),  Corso  Vit- 
torio Emanuele,  and  Castel  Sant'Elmo  (PL  D,  5). 

Omnibuses  (10  c),  among  others,  from  Piazza  San  Ferdinando  (PI. 
E,  6)   and   from  Largo  della  Vittoria  (PI.  D,  7)   to  the  National  Museum. 

Steamboat  Agents.  Canard,  Nic.  Ferolla,  Via  Guglielmo  Sanfelice 
59;  UnionCastle,  Anchor  Line,  Orient,  and  Hungarian  Adria,  Holme&Co. 
(see  below);  White  Star  and  Hamburg- American,  Piazza  della  Borsa  21; 
Norih  German  Lloyd,  Aselmeyer  &  Co.,  Corso  Umberto  Primo  6  (goods- 
oflke,  Piazza  della  Borsa  33);  German  East  African,  Kellner  &  Lampe, 
Piazza  della  Borsa  8;  Austro-Americana,  Fornari  &  Massara,  Via  Francesco 
Denza  2;  Messageries  Maritimes,  Fratelli  Gondrand,  Corso  Umberto  Primo 
12S ;  Societa  Nazionale,  Via  Agostino  Depretis  18;  Peninsular  &  Oriental, 
Thomson  Line,  Ferrovie  dello  Stato  (steamer  service),  Spanier,  Piazza 
della  Borsa  9;  Navi gazione  Generate,  Via  Agostino  Depretis;  La  Veloce, 
same  street,  No.  20. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  F,  5),  Palazzo  Gravina,  Strada 
Monteoliveto. 

Consuls.  British  Consul-General,  S.  J.  A.  Churchill,  Via  dei  Mille  40 
(PI.  D,  (i);  vice-consul,  A.  Napier.  —  U.  S.  Consul,  A.  H.  Byington,  Piazza 
del  Municipio  4  (PI.  F,  6). 

Tourist  Agents.  Thos.  Cook  &  Son,  Galleria  Vittoria  (PI.  E,  7).  — 
Goods  Agents.  American  Express,  Via  Vittoria  27;  Elefante  &  Co., 
Piazza  del  Municipio  66;  Fratelli  Gondrand,  Corso  Umberto  Primo  128. 
—  Lloyd's  Agents.     Holme  &  Co.,  Via  Guglielmo  Sanfelice  24. 

Churches.  English  {Christ  Church;  'Chiesa  Inglcse' ;  PI.  D,  7),  Strada 
San  Pasquale;  Presbyterian  ('Chiesa  Scozzese'),  Vico  Cappella  Vecchia  2; 
American,  Viale  Principessa  Elena  15. 

Sights.  (The  churches  are  usually  open  in  the  morning  and  towards 
evening.  The  Museums  are  closed  on  great  festivals.)  Museo  Nazionale 
(p.  139),  week-days  10-4,  May-Out.  9-3,  adm.  1  fr.;  Sun.  9-1  free.— San  Mar- 
tino (p.  141),  week-days  10-4,  1  f  r. ;  Sun.  9-1,  free.  —  Aquarium  (p.  141), 
daily,  2  fr. ;  Sun.  and  holidays  1  fr. 

Naples,  Ital.  Napoli,  once  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of 
Naples,  and  now  that  of  a  province,  is  the  most  important  seaport 
and  after  Milan  the  most  populous  city  of  Italy  (492,000  inhab.). 
It  lies  in  40°51'  N.  lat.  and  14°  15'  E.  long.,  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
bay  named  after  it,  at  the  foot  and  on  the  slopes  of  several  hills. 
Its  site  and  environs  are  among  the  most  beautiful  in  the  world. 
The  vicissitudes  of  its  history  are  as  remarkable  as  those  of  its 
volcanic  soil.    Here  in  hoar  antiquity  Greeks  from  Kyme  (Cumae) 


138     Route  24.  NAPLES.  Castel  Nuovo. 

founded  Parthenope,  afterwards  called  Palaeopolis  or  'old  town', 
and  Neapolis,  or  'new  town'.  Here,  too,  Ostrogoths,  Byzantines, 
Normans,  and  Hohenstaufen  held  sway.  Charles  of  Anjou  (1266-85) 
made  Naples  his  capital,  which  was  much  extended  by  Ferdinand  I. 
of  Aragon  (1458-94),  by  the  Spanish  viceroy  Don  Pedro  de  Toledo 
(1532-53),  and  by  the  Bourbon  Charles  III.  (1748-59).  At  length 
in  1860  the  kingdom  and  city  were  united  to  the  kingdom  of  Italy. 
In  historic  and  artistic  monuments  Naples  is  far  poorer  than  the 
towns  of  Northern  and  Central  Italy;  but  the  matchless  treasures 
from  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum  preserved  in  the  Museum,  which 
present  a  new  and  fascinating  picture  of  ancient  life,  afford  ample 
compensation. 

A  line  drawn  from  the  Castel  Sant'Elmo  (PI.  D,  5;  p.  141)  to 
the  Pizzofalcone  (PI.  E,  7),  a  height  which  terminates  in  the  nar- 
row rock  of  the  Castello  ddl'Ovo,  divides  the  city  into  two  parts. 
To  the  E.  lie  the  oldest  and  busiest  quarters,  of  which  the  long  Via 
Roma  (p.  139)  is  the  main  street.  The  smaller  part  of  the  town,  the 
strangers'  quarter,  extends  along  the  shore  to  the  W.  from  the  Pizzo- 
falcone and  up  the  slopes  of  Sant'Elmo  and  Posilipo  (p.  142). 

The  Harbour  Quarter,  and  particularly  the  lanes  between  the 
Strada  Nuova  (PI.  6,  H,  5)  and  the  broad  Corso  Umberto  Primo  (PI. 
F-H,  5,  4),  which  leads  to  the  station,  still  present  diverse  scenes 
of  popular  life.  Through  this  quarter  the  Strada  del  Duomo  (p.  140) 
leads  to  the  Strada  Foria  and  the  Museum  (p.  139). 

Passing  the  Immacolatella  Vecchia  (PI.  G,  5),  we  follow  the 
Strada  del  Piliero  (PL  G,  F,  5,6;  tramways  Nos.  4  and  11;  see 
p.  137)  to  the  Molo  Angioino  (PI.  F,  G,  6),  the  old  quay  which 
separates  the  Porto  Mercantile  from  the  Porto  Militare. 

Adjacent,  on  the  W.,  lies  the  Piazza  del  Municipio  (PI.  F,  6), 
with  the  Municipio  or  town-hall  at  its  W.  end.  On  the  S.E.  side 
of  this  piazza  is  the  approach  to  the — 

Castel  Nuovo  (PI.  F,  6),  built  for  Charles  I.  of  Anjou  in 
1279-83,  and  afterwards  much  enlarged.  It  was  the  residence  suc- 
cessively of  the  kings  of  the  houses  of  Anjou  and  Aragon  and  the 
Spanish  viceroys,  but  is  now  used  as  barracks.  The  inner  gateway 
of  the  castle  (adm.  free)  consists  of  a  ^Triumphal  Arch,  flanked 
with  two  towers,  in  the  early  Renaissance  style,  erected  in  1451-70 
in  memory  of  the  entry  of  Alphonso  I.  of  Aragon  (1442). 

From  the  Piazza  del  Municipio  the  Strada  San  Carlo  leads  to 
the  S.W.  to  the  GaUeria  Umberto  Primo  (PL  E,  F,  6),  built  in 
1887-90,  and  vying  with  the  grand  arcade  at  Milan,  and  to  the  — 

Piazza  San  Ferdinando  (PL  E,  6),  the  business  centre  of  the 
city.  (Tramcars  and  omnibuses,  see  p.  137.)  On  the  E.  side  rises  the 
Teatro  San  Carlo  (PL  F,  6),  dating  from  1737,  one  of  the  largest 
in  Europe.  Adjacent,  in  the  large  Piazza  del  Plebiscite,  rises  the 
Palazzo  Reale  (PL  F,  6),  begun  in  1600. 


Mweo  Nazionale.  NAPLES.  S4-  Route.     139 

At  the  Piazza  San  Perdinando  begins  the  Via  Roma,  the  chief 
artery  of  traffic,  named  the  Toledo  down  to  1870,  after  its  founder 
Don  Pedro  de  Toledo  (1540).  With  its  continuation  the  Salita  del 
Museo  Nazionale  it  ascends  for  over  a  mile,  between  the  lanes  on 
the  slope  of  the  Sant'Elmo  hill,  on  the  left,  and  the  chief  business 
part  of  the  city,  on  the  right,  to  the  National  Museum.  This  long 
line  of  streets,  poor  architecturally,  is  broken  only  by  the  small 
Largo  della  Carita  (PI.  E,  5)  and  the  Piazza  Dante  (PI.  E,  F,  4). 
About  halfway  between  these  the  Via  Domenico  Capitelli  diverges 
to  the  right  to  the  church  of  — 

Santa  Chiara  (PI.  F,  4),  the  Pantheon  of  Naples,  built  in 
1310-40,  but  tastelessly  restored  in  1742-57.  The  interior,  planned 
in  the  French  Gothic  style,  resembles  a  great  public  hall.  Behind 
the  high-altar  is  the  Gothic  *Monument  of  Robert  the  Wise  (d.  1343), 
the  founder  of  the  church.  The  transepts  contain  the  monuments 
of  other  Angevin  kings. 

The  **Museo  Nazionale  (PI.  E,  F,  3),  built  in  1586  as 
cavalry  barracks,  was  the  seat  of  the  University  from  1616  to  1780, 
but  since  1790  has  been  occupied  by  the  royal  art-collections, 
which  are  among  the  finest  in  the  world.    Adm.,  see  p.  137. 

On  the  Ground  Floor,  in  the  E.  wing  on  the  right  of  the  vestibule, 
are  the  *Greek  Sculptures  in  marble.  Entering  by  the  first  door,  we  begin 
our  visit  with  the  colonnade  of  the  archaic  sculptures  (Marmi  Arcaiei). 
In  the  centre:  6009,  6010.  Harmodios  and  Aristogeitou  (p.  506).  —  Turning 
to  the  right,  we  enter  the  rooms  on  the  S.  side  of  the  building,  which 
contain  sculptures  of  the  First  Golden  Age  of  Greek  art  (5th  cent.).  In  the 
central  room,  6322.  Bust  of  Athena,  probably  after  CephisodoU/s  (father 
of  Praxiteles) ;  by  the  window,  two  statues  of  Aphrodite  (after  Alca- 
menest);  I.  Room  on  the  right,  6005.  So-called  Hera  Faruese;  II.  Room 
on  the  left,  *6727.  The  famous  Orpbeus  relief  ;«*6024.  Statue  of  Athena 
(after  Phidias  f).     Also,  in  II.  R.  on  the  right,  fine  Mosaics. 

From  the  colonnade  of  the  archaic  sculptures  we  pass  through  R.  II 
into  the  Flora  colonnade,  the  rooms  on  the  right  of  which  contain  the 
sculptures  of  the  Second  Golden  Age  of  Greek  art  (4th  cent.)  and  of  the 
later  Greek  or  Hellenistic  period.  In  the  central  room,  6306.  Bearded 
Dionysus,  after  Praxiteles.  I.  Side-Room  on  the  right,  *6035.  Torso  of 
Aphrodite;  without  a  number,  Torso  of  a  man  sitting,  a  replica  of  the 
so-called  Ares  Ludovisi,  after  Lysippus.  II.  Side-Room,  Farnese  Hercules, 
after  Lysippus,  but  coarsened.  III.  Side-Room  on  the  left,  Farnese  Bull, 
a  colossal  group,  after  Apollonius  and  Tmiriscus  of  Rhodes. 

The  third  colonnade  contains  coloured  sculptures.  In  the  side-rooms 
are  fragments  of  sculptures  and  buildings.  Crossing  the  vestibule  to  the 
W.  wing,  we  enter  the  — 

Colonnade  of  the  Greek  portrait-statues  (Portico  Iconografico).  On  the 
right,  *6018.  ^Eschines,  the  Athenian  orator;  6023.  Homer;  6135.  Euripides. 
—  Straight  on,  we  next  come  to  the  Portico  degli  Imperatori,  containing 
Greek  and  Roman  portraits.  In  the  centre,  *Hermes  of  a  Greek  philos- 
opher. In  the  side-rooms,  Roman  sculptures  and  architectural  fragments. 
The  central  of  these  rooms  contains  the  celebrated  *Mosaic  of  the  Battle 
of  Alexander. 

The  remaining  rooms  contain  the  *Collection  of  the  larger  antique 
bronzes.  The  chief  rooms  (I,  II  Bronzes  from  Pompeii,  III-V  from  Her- 
culaneum)  are  on  the  S.  front  of  the  Museum.  Room  I.  5003.  Young 
Dionysos  (so-called  Narcissus).  Room  II.  5630.  Archaic  statue  of  Apollo 
playing  on   the  lyre;  4997.  Victory.    Room  III.    5625.  Hermes   reposing, 


140     Route  24.  NAPLES.  Cathedral. 

School  of  Lysippus;  5633.  Boy's  head  (end  of  5th  cent.);  *4885.  Bust  of 
the  Doryphorus  (spear-bearer),  after  Polycletus ;  *5618.  Head  of  bearded 
Dionysus,  after  a  work  of  the  School  of  Myron  (5th  cent.).  Room  V. 
5616.  Hellenistic  poet  (the  so-called  Seneca). 

In  the  Mezzanino  (entresol),  on  the  right,  is  the  *Collection  of  ancient 
wall-paintings  (Affreschi  Pompeiani)  from  Pompeii,  Herculaneum,  etc. — 
Room  I.  9105.  Briseis  carried  off  from  the  tent  of  Achilles;  9559.  Nuptials 
of  Zeus  and  Hera.  Room  II.  8976.  Medea  about  to  slay  her  children; 
9286.  Dionysus  and  the  sleeping  Ariadne.  Passage  to  R.  V,  9180.  'Cupids 
for  sale'.  Room  V.  8834.  Girl  gathering  flowers;  9295.  Bacchantes  and 
SatyTs;  9133.  Centaurs;  9118-21.  Rope-dancing  satyrs. 

The  First  Floor  (Priino  Piano)  contains,  in  the  E.  wing,  to  the  left 
of  the  staircase,  the  two  Sale  dei  Commestibili,  devoted  to  provisions, 
textiles,  pigments,  etc.  from  Pompeii;  also  seven  rooms  on  the  N.  side  of 
the  building,  occupied  by  the  *Collectiou  of  the  smaller  bronzes  (Piccoli 
Bronzi),  and  by  interesting  domestic  furniture  from  Pompeii,  affording  an 
admirable  idea  of  the  ancient  style  of  living. 

The  whole  of  the  W.  wing  is  occupied  by  the  Pinacoteca  or  picture- 
gallery,  chiefly  of  Italian  works.  Room  1.  Correggio,  Betrothal  of  St. 
Catharine.  Room  II.  *Titian,  Danae  (1545),  Pope  Paul  III.  Farnese  (1543 
and  1545),  and  Philip  II.  of  Spain.  Room  III.  Sebast.  del  Piombo,  Holy 
Family,  Popes  Hadrian  VI.  and  Clement  VII.  Room  IV.  Raphael,  Holy 
Family  (Madonna  del  divino  Amore).    Room  V.  Sandro  Botticelli,  Madonna. 

The  other  rooms  contain  Renaissance  objects  (Oggetti  del  Cinquecento), 
the  Engravings,  and  the  National  Library. 

The  Second  Floor  (Secondo  Piano)  is  dedicated  to  antique  glass, 
gold  and  silver  plate,  cut  gems,  etc.,  a  most  interesting  and  extensive 
collection,  one  of  the  finest  of  its  kind. 

The  N.E.  Quarter,  between  the  Museum  and  the  Central  Station 
(tramways  Nos.  4  and  11;  p.  137),  also  boasts  of  its  sights. 

We  follow  the  long  Piazza  Cavour  (PI.  F,  3)  to  the  N.E.  from 
the  Museum,  and  at  the  beginning  of  the  Via  Foria  descend  the 
Strada  del  Duomo  to  the  right  to  the  (4  min.)  — 

Cathedral  (PI.  G,,  3;  San  Gennaro;  best  seen  about  noon),  a 
Gothic  edifice,  built  in  1272-1323,  but  repeatedly  modernized. 
The  third  chapel  in  the  right  aisle  is  the  famous  Cappella  di  San 
Gennaro  or  Cappella  del  Tesoro,  added  to  the  church  in  1608-37; 
the  altar  contains  two  phials  of  the  blood  of  St.  Januarius,  which  is 
miraculously  liquefied  thrice  yearly.  The  crypt,  below  the  high- 
altar,  shows  the  finest  example  of  Renaissance  decoration  in  Naples 
(1497-1507).  From  the  left  aisle  is  entered  the  basilica  of  Santa 
Restituta,  the  old  cathedral,  founded  in  the  7th  century. 

The  church  of  San  Giovanni  a  Carbonara  (PI.  G,  3),  in  the 
street  of  that  name,  a  little  way  to  the  N.E.  of  the  cathedral,  con- 
tains, at  the  back  of  the  high-altar  (1746),  the  late-Gothic  *Monu- 
ment  of  king  Ladislaus  (d.  1414),  by  Andreas  de  Florentia. 

At  the  end  of  the  street,  opposite  the  Castel  Capuano  (PI.  G,  3; 
now  law-courts),  built  by  Emp.  Frederick  II.  in  1231,  rises  the  — 

*Porta  Capuana  (PI.  G,  H,  3),  one  of  the  finest  of  Renais- 
sance gateways,  built  by  the  Florentine  Giuliano  da  Maiano  (1485), 
with  sculptures  by  Giovanni  da  Nola  (1535). 


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San  Martino.  NAPLES.  **•  Route.     141 

The  chief  approach  from  the  Piazza  San  Ferdi7iando  (p.  138)  to 
the  W.  quarters  is  by  the  animated  Strada  di  Chiaia  (PL  E,  6). 
From  its  W.  end  we  proceed  along  the  Strada  Santa  Caterina,  bear- 
ing to  the  left,  cross  the  Piazza  dei  Martiri,  and  follow  the  Via 
Calabritto,  with  its  numerous  shops,  to  the  — 

Largo  della  Vittoria  (PI.  D,  7 ;  tramways,  Nos.  1  and  4,  and 
omnibus,  see  p.  137).  This  piazza  may  be  reached  also  from  the 
Eione  Santa  Lucia  on  the  E.  side  by  the  Via  Parteuope  (PI.  F,  E,  7), 
which  leads  along  the  coast,  past  the  Castello  dell' Ovo  (p.  138),  and 
affords  tine  views.    On  the  W.  side  of  the  Largo  lies  the  — 

*Villa  Nazionale  (PI.  C,  D,  7),  usually  called  La  Villa,  a 
beautiful  public  garden  planted  with  palms,  bounded  on  the  sea-side 
by  the  Via  Caracciolo,  the  fashionable  promenade  of  Naples,  and 
on  the  side  next  the  town  by  the  Riviera  di  Chiaia.  A  band  plays 
here  on  Sun.,  Tues.,  and  Thurs.,  2-4  o'clock  (June-Oct.  9-11  p.  m.). 
In  the  middle  of  these  grounds  is  the — 

Zoological  Station,  founded  in  1872  by  the  German  naturalist 
A.  Dohrn  (d.  1909).  The  central  building  contains  the  *Aquarium 
(PI.  D,  7  ;  adm.,  see  p.  137),  which  presents  an  unrivalled  and  most 
interesting  picture  of  submarine  life. 

The  winding  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele,  over  2l/2  M.  long, 
ascends  from  the  coast  a  little  way  beyond  the  Villa  Nazionale,  or 
it  may  be  reached  from  the  Museum  by  the  Via  Salvator  Rosa 
(PI.  E,  3;  tramway  Xo.  6,  see  p.  137).  Above  the  'Villa',  on  the  S. 
slope  of  the  Sant'  Elmo  Hill,  are  situated  the  best  hotels. 

On  the  hills  to  which  the  two  funiculars  and  tramway  No.  7 
(p.  137)  ascend  from  the  lower  town  lies  the  new  quarter  of  JRione 
I  ero  (PL  C,  D,  5).  On  itsE.  side  rises  the  old  Castel  SanV Elmo 
(PL  D,  5;  817  ft.),  fortified  with  huge  walls  and  with  passages 
hewn  in  the  tufa  rock,  and  now  used  as  a  military  prison.  From  the 
outer  gate  of  the  castle,  at  the  tramway-terminus,  we  descend  to 
the  E.  to  the  suppressed  Carthusian  monastery  of  — 

*San  Martino  (PL  D,  5 ;  adm.,  see  p.  137),  a  Gothic  building 
of  the  14th  cent.,  tastefully  restored  in  the  baroque  style  about 
1650.  The  church,  the  old  farmacia  (Room  III),  and  the  cloisters 
are  interesting.  The  other  rooms  contain  Neapolitan  memorials 
and  art-industry  collections.  Rooms  XV  and  XVI  (once  the  library) 
are  filled  with  Neapolitan  majolicas  and  porcelain.  From  Room 
XXX,  to  the  right,  we  enter  a  *Belvedere  (XXXII),  whose  balconies 
offer  a  superb  view  of  the  city,  Vesuvius,  the  bay,  and  the  fertile 
plain  extending  to  the  Apennines  (best  by  afternoon  light). 

A  famous  view  (clear  weather  necessary)  is  obtained  from  the  old 
monastery  of  **Camaldoli  (1503  ft.),  founded  in  1585  on  the  highest  of  the 
hills  to  the  N.W.  of  Sant'  Elmo.  The  rough  road  to  it  (carr.  about  6,  with 
two  horses  9-10  fr. ;  there  and  back  4'/s  brs.)  leaves  the  city  near  the  Porta 
San  Martino  (PI.  A,  13,  2),  the  N.W.  gate  of  the  Cinta  Daziaria  or  wall 
of  the  octroi  (town-customs).  If  on  foot  or  on  donkey  back  (2-2>/2  fr.  and 
fee  to  attendant;  5-6  brs.),  we  go  from  Rione  Vomero  (see  above)  through 


142     Route  24.  NAPLES.  Posilipo. 

the  suburb  of  Antignano  (PI.  B,  C,  i,  5)  to  the  little  customs-office  of 
V Archetiello  (PI.  B,  4),  near  which  the  bridle-path  begins. 

The  monastery  (suppressed,  and  now  private  property,  but  still  occu- 
pied by  several  monks;  fee  30-50  c. ;  ladies  not  admitted)  offers  little 
attraction.  Straight  through  the  garden  we  reach  a  point  of  view  which 
commands  the  bays  of  Naples  and  Pozzuoli,  the  PhlegrEean  plain  with  its 
numerous  extinct  craters,  and  the  Bay  of  Gaeta  as  far  as  the  distant 
Ponza  Islands  (p.  133). 

When  ladies  are  of  the  party  we  turn  to  the  right,  near  the  N.W. 
angle  of  the  monastery-wall,  and  descend  a  little  to  the  (8  min.)  gate  of 
the  Veditta  Pagliana  (adm.  20  c),  where  the  view  is  similar. 

Travellers  whose  time  is  limited  may  at  least  visit  the  *Strada 
Nuova  di  Posilipo  (tramway  No.  1;  p.  137).  It  is  approached, 
beyond  the  Villa  Nazionale  (p.  141),  by  the  Strada  di  Mergellina 
(PI.  B,  7),  from  which  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  (p.  141)  di- 
verges. The  Strada  Nuova  di  Posilipo,  gradually  ascending  from 
the  sea,  leads  between  villas  with  luxuriant  gardens  round  the 
broad  hill  of  Posilipo,  which  bounds  the  Bay  of  Naples  on  the  W., 
and  offers,  especially  by  evening  light,  superb  views  of  Mt.  Vesuvius, 
the  peninsula  of  Sorrento  (p.  154),  and  the  island  of  Capri.  A  walk 
of  10  min.  straight  on  from  the  tramway-terminu3  brings  us 
through  a  cutting  to  the  Bella  Vista,  a  point  of  view  near  the 
restaurant  of  that  name  (p.  136),  where  we  have  an  unimpeded 
view  of  the  bay  of  Pozzuoli  and  of  the  islands  of  Procida  and 
Ischia  (p.  135). 

An  interesting  circular  trip  may  be  made  from  the  Corso  Vit- 
torio Emanuele  (p.  141),  up  the  Via  Tasso  (PI.  C,  B,  6),  with  its 
fine  points  of  view,  to  the  top  of  Posilipo,  then  along  the  crest  of 
the  hill  to  the  S.W.  to  the  tramway-terminus,  and  back  by  the 
Posilipo  road  (a  walk  of  3'/2-4  hrs.,  or  a  drive  of  V/2  hr. ;  a  cab 
should  be  taken  by  the  hour). 

For  Naples  and  its  Environs  comp.  also  Baedeker's  Southern  Italy, 
or  Italy  from  the  Alps  to  Naples. 

25.  From  Genoa  to  Tunis  via  Leghorn  and 
Cagliari. 

620  M.  This  route  forms  part  of  the  'Linea  Circolare  della  Tunisia 
e  Tripolitania'  (Lines  XVIII-XX)  of  the  Societa  Nazionale,  a  circular 
tour  which  offers  interesting  glimpses  of  Sardinia,  Malta,  and  the  E.  coast 
of  Sicily,  as  well  as  of  Oriental  life  at  the  N.  African  ports  (RR.  61,  27,  24). 
The  steamers  usually  leave  Genoa  on  Prid.  evening,  Leghorn  on  Sat. 
night,  and  Cagliari  on  Mon.  evening,  and  arrive  at  Tunis  on  Tues.  forenoon. 
(In  the  reverse  direction  they  leave  Tunis  on  Mon.  at  noon  and  reach 
Genoa  on  Thurs.  evening.)  Fare  111  or  83  fr.  (or  for  the  whole  round 
303  or  212  fr.).  As  some  of  the  steamers  are  hardly  up  to  date,  inquiry 
as  to  the  best  should  be  made  beforehand.  Office  at  Genoa,  see  p.  114; 
at  Leghorn,  Piazza  Micheli  (p.  143);  at  Tunis,  p.  331. 

Genoa,  and  voyage  to  (92  M.)  Leghorn,  comp.  pp.  113,  134. 
We  pass  Meloria,  a  cliff  4  M.  to  the  W.  of  Leghorn,  off  which  the 
Genoese  destroyed  the  fleet  of  Pisa  in  1284. 


ELBA  25.  Boute.     143 

Leghorn,  Ital.  Livorno  (Marble  Palace  Hotel;  Hot.  d'Angle- 
terre  &  Campari,  H6t.  Giappone,  both  in  Via  Vittorio  Emanuele, 
with  restaurants,  good  Italian  houses  for  passing  travellers;  Brit, 
cons.,  M.  Carmichael ;  U.  S.  cons.,  E.  A.  Man ;  pop.  78,000),  a  provin- 
cial capital,  one  of  the  chief  seaports  of  Italy,  and  a  sea-bathing 
place,  is  quite  a  modern  town.  The  harbour  consists  of  the  Porto 
Nuovo,  sheltered  by  a  semicircular  mole  (diga  curvilinea)  and 
the  new  Molo  Vegliaia,  and  the  old  Porto  Mediceo,  or  inner  har- 
bour.   (Landing  or  embarkation  1  fr. ;  trunk  30  c). 

Near  the  harbour  is  the  Piazza  Micheli,  adorned  with  a  curious 
monument  of  the  grand-duke  Ferdinand  I.  of  Tuscany  (1587-1609). 
Straight  on  runs  the  Via  Vittorio  Emanuele,  the  main  street,  lined 
with  shops.  It  leads  across  the  large  Piazza  Vittorio  Emanuele, 
which  is  flanked  by  the  Cathedral,  the  Municipio,  and  other  public 
buildings,  to  the  Piazza  Carlo  Alberto,  whence  the  Via  Garibaldi 
and  Via  Palestro  lead  to  the  left  to  the  railway-station. 

A  pleasant  walk  (or  tramway  from  the  station  to  Antignano)  is 
offered  by  the  Viale  Pegina  Margherita,  about  2  M.  in  length, 
the  seaside  promenade  to  the  S.  of  the  town,  in  summer  enlivened 
by  numerous  bathers.  Between  it  and  the  harbour,  and  adjoining 
the  Piazza  Mazzini,  is  the  Cantiere  Orlando,  the  dockyards  where 
iron-clads  and  other  vessels  are  built  for  the  Italian  navy. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  sea-promenade  lie  the  villa-suburbs  of  Ar- 
denza  and  Antignano,  which  have  sea-baths  also. 

On  the  fine  Voyage  from  Leghorn  to  (339  M.)  Cagliari  we  at 
first  obtain  a  good  view  of  the  Tuscan  Archipelago,  relics  of  the 
primaeval  Tyrrhenis  (p.  xxxi).  These  islands  are  composed  mainly 
of  granite,  with  slate  and  limestone  strata  overlying  it  in  places. 

Passing  at  some  distance  from  the  barren  fisher-island  of  Gor- 
gona  (837  ft.)  and  from  Capraia,  the  Capraria  (goats'  island)  of 
antiquity,  we  steer  to  the  S.S.W.  towards  the  W.  coast  of  Elba, 
enjoying  in  clear  weather  a  line  distant  *View  of  the  peninsula  of 
Cape  Corse,  the  N.  extremity  of  Corsica,  and  of  Monte  Cinto 
(8892  ft.),  the  highest  mountain  in  the  interior  of  that  island. 

We  next  skirt  the  island  of  Elba,  the  JEthalia  of  the  Greeks 
and  Uva  of  the  Romans,  the  largest  island  in  the  archipelago,  19  M. 
long,  famous  as  the  scene  of  the  first  exile  of  Napoleon  I.  (1814-5). 
The  valuable  iron-mines  here  (comp.  pp.  134,  135),  worked  from 
very  ancient  times,  are  an  important  factor  in  the  industries  of 
Italy.  We  pass  the  rocky  N.  coast  of  the  island,  which  is  visible 
as  far  as  the  Capo  della  Vita  (p.  135),  and  on  its  W.  side  we 
observe  the  massive  granitic  Monte  Capanne  (3343  ft.). 

The  steamer  passes  between  the  hardly  less  steep  S.  coast  of 
Eba  and  the  flat  island  of  Pianosa  (85  ft.;  the  ancient  Plana- 
sia),  and  steers  to  the  S.S.W.  towards  the  S.  coast  of  Sardinia. 
On  the  left,  about  26  M.  from  Elba,  appears  the  bold  granitic  is- 

Baedskeu's  Mediterranean  10 


144     Route  25.  CAGLIARI.  from  Genoa 

land  of  Montecristo  (2126  ft.),  the  ancient  Oglasa,  the  scene  of 
the  well-known  novel  'The  Count  of  Monte  Cristo',  by  Alex.  Dumas. 

The  Straits  of  Bonifacio  (p.  133)  lie  far  to  the  W.  of  the 
steamer's  course.  Off  the  N.E.  coast  of  Sardinia  we  first  sight  the 
massive  rocky  island  of  Tavolara  (1821  ft.),  the  Bucina  of  the 
Romans,  masking  the  Bay  of  Terranova ;  then,  when  off  Capo  Co- 
mino,  the  eastmost  point  of  Sardinia,  we  see  Monte  Alvo  (3701  ft.), 
a  little  inland.  The  somewhat  monotonous  S.E.  coast  of  the  island 
is  backed  by  sterile  mountains.  We  pass  the  little  port  of  Arbatax 
(Tortoli  Marina),  the  Capo  di  Bellavista,  the  Capo  Sferra  Ca- 
vallo,  the  Monte  Ferrau  (2878  ft.),  the  Capo  Ferrato,  and  lastly 
the  islet  of  Serpentara. 

Beyond  Capo  Carbonara,  the  S.E.  point  of  Sardinia,  and  the 
Isola  dei  Cavoli  (p.  118),  opens  the  broad  Gulf  of  Cagliari  on 
the  fiat  S.  coast  of  the  island.  On  the  hill-side  at  the  head  of  the  gulf, 
beyond  the  fortified  Cape  SanVElia,  which  shuts  off  the  inner 
Golfo  di  Quarto,  lies  the  town  of  Cagliari.  Around  it  are  several 
large  coast-lakes,  the  Stagnodi  Molentargius,  on  the  E.,  the  Stagno 
di  Cagliari,  on  the  W.,  and  others,  which  yield  quantities  of  salt 
The  latter  has  been  separated  from  the  gulf  only  since  the  middle 
ages  by  a  neck  of  land  called  the  Plaia. 

Cagliari.  —  The  Steamer  is  moored  in  the  Darsena.  Landing  or 
embarkation  40,  with  baggage  60  c. 

Hotels.  Scala  di  Ferro,  Viale  Regina  Margherita  5,  with  good 
restaurant,  R.  2V2-3  ff- !  Quattro  Mori,  Largo  Carlo  Felice,  R.  from  2  fr., 
also  restaurant. —  Cafe  Torino,  Via  Roma. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office,  Via  Lodovico  Bailie  22.  —  Cab  (bargaining 
advisable)  1,  at  night  l'/o  fr-  Per  drive;  baggage  20  c. 

British  Consul  (also  Lloyd's  Agent),  R.  E.  Pernis. 

Cagliari,  Sardin.  Casteddu,  the  Roman  Car  ales,  a  very  ancient 
town,  having  been  founded  by  the  Phoenicians,  now  the  seat  of  a 
university  and  of  an  archbishop,  with  48,000  inhab.,  lies  in  one  of 
the  hottest  and  driest  regions  in  Italy.  At  the  foot  of  the  Castello  or 
old  towu  (290  ft.)  lie  the  new  quarters  of  Villanova,  Marina,  and 
Stampace,  adjoined  on  the  W.  by  the  suburb  of  Sant'Avendrace. 

The  Via  Roma,  an  avenue  skirting  the  sea,  the  fashionable  corso 
in  the  evening,  leads  from  the  Palazzo  Comunale  to  the  Largo  Carlo 
Felice.  On  the  right  are  two  covered  Markets,  which  are  worth 
seeing  in  the  forenoon.  This  largo  leads  to  the  Piazza  Yenne, 
the  business  centre  of  the  modern  town. 

At  the  N.  end  of  the  Largo  Carlo  Felice  rises  a  statue  of  Charles 
Felix  I.  (1821-31),  and  in  the  Piazza  Yenne  an  antique  column. 
Between  these  passes  the  main  thoroughfare  of  the  town:  to  the 
left  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele,  ending  near  a  group  of  ancient 
Roman  houses  recently  excavated,  now  called  Casa  di  Tigellio;  to 
the  right,  leading  to  the  upper  town,  the  animated  Via  Manno 
(popularly  lLa  Costa'),  with  numerous  shops,  where  among  other 


to  Tunis.  CAGLIARI.  25-  Route.     145 

things  the  gold  ornaments  commonly  worn  hy  the  country-people 
should  be  noticed. 

From  the  Piazza  della  Costituzione,  at  the  S.E.  end  of  the  Via 
Manno,  the  *Viale  Regina  Elena  runs  to  the  N.,  beneath  the  pre- 
cipnuus  E.  side  of  the  abrupt  Castello.  It  affords  a  fine  view  of 
the  ancient  town-wall,  of  the  cathedral,  and  of  the  picturesque  rear 
of  the  castle-buildings;  below,  on  the  right,  lies  Villanova,  with  its 
quaint  tiled  roofs,  while  beyond  it  we  have  a  splendid  view  of  Cape 
Sunt"  Elia  and  across  the  wide  plain  of  Quarto  to  the  mountains. 

From  the  Giardino  Pubblico,  at  the  N.  end  of  the  promenade, 
we  mount  to  the  W.  to  the  Passeggiata  Buon  Cammino  (see  below). 

Adjoining  the  Via  Manno  (p.  144)  is  the  small  Piazzetta  de'Mar- 
tiri  d'  Italia,  whence  the  Via  Giuseppe  Mazzini  ascends  in  two  bends 
to  the  ^Castello,  still  fortified  in  mediaeval  style.  At  the  top  is  the 
new  Passeggiata  Coperta,  one  of  the  finest  points  in  the  town.  The 
Via  dell'Uuiversita  leads  hence  to  the  left  to  the  University  and  to 
the  ponderous  Torre  deW  Elef ante,  which,  according  to  the  inscrip- 
tion, was  erected  by  the  Pisans  in  1307. 

Straight  on  we  pass  through  the  Torre  dell'Aquila,  an  old 
gateway  row  enclosed  within  the  Palazzo  Boyl,  to  the  Via  Lam  ak- 
mora,  the  main  street  in  the  Castello,  which  is  connected  with  the 
parallel  streets  by  steep  lanes,  dark  vaulted  passages,  and  steps. 

From  the  terraced  little  Piazza  del  Municipio,  with  the  council- 
hall  of  the  old  town,  a  flight  of  steps  to  the  right  ascends  to  the 
Cathedral  (Santa  Cecilia),  completed  by  the  Pisans  in  1312,  but 
since  then  frequently  altered.  A  new  facade,  in  keeping  with  the 
old  building,  is  now  under  construction. 

Farther  to  the  N.,  in  the  Piazza  dell'  Indipendenza,  is  the  Pisan 
Torre  San  Pancrazio  (14th  cent.),  a  modern  addition  to  which 
contains  the  very  notable  Museum  of  Antiquities  (if  closed  apply 
to  the  director,  Sig.  Nissardi).  Besides  Phoenician  and  Roman 
antiquities  we  may  note  the  cork  model  of  a  nuraghe,  one  of  the 
conical  fortresses  built  by  the  aboriginal  Iberian  inhabitants. 

Going  through  the  Citadel,  which  bounds  the  Castello  on  the  N., 
we  follow  the  Passeggiata  Buon  Cammino  to  the  Piazza  d'Armi. 
Just  beyond  the  barracks  a  road  to  the  left  leads  to  the  Roman  — 

Amphitheatre  (greater  diameter  97,  smaller  80  yds.;  arena 
55  by  37  yds.),  with  tiers  of  seats  mostly  hewn  in  the  rock. 

Below  the  amphitheatre  lie  the  garden  of  the  Poor  House  (Ri- 
covero  di  Mendicita)  and  the  Botanic  Garden  (Thurs.  4-7),  both 
containing  remains  of  antique  IrrigationWorhs,  which  are  continued 
on  the  cliffs  to  the  N.W.  of  the  old  town.  Close  by  is  the  ancient 
Necropolis  of  Carales.  Nearest  the  town  are  the  Punic  tomb-cham- 
bers, sunk  perpendicularly  in  the  rock  (care  should  be  taken  here), 
and  farther  to  the  W.  are  the  mostly  horizontal  Roman  tombs. 

From  the  rained  castle  of  San  Mlchde,  at  the  top  of  a  hill  about  2  M. 

10* 


146     Route  26.  TJSTICA.  From  Naples 

to  the  N.   of  the  Piazza   d'Armi   (p.  145),    we   overlook  the  Stagno  di 
Cagliari  (p.  144)  and  the  Campidano,  a  fruitful,  but  fever-stricken  plain 
between  the  bays  of  Cagliari  and  Oristano  (p.  129),  where  the  clay-built 
villages  and  the  cactus  hedges  recall  N.  Africa. 
See  also  Baedeker's  Southern  Italy. 

The  Steamer  on  leaving  the  Gulf  of  Cagliari  steers  to  the  S.S.E. ; 
astern  we  soon  sight  Cape  Spartivento  (p.  118),  at  the  N.W.  end 
of  the  gulf.  For  the  voyage  along  the  Tunisian  coast,  and  for 
Tunis,  see  K.  21  and  p.  329. 

Voyage  from  Tunis  to  Algiers,  see  E.  22;  to  Tripoli,  see  R.  64. 


26.  From  Naples  to  Tunis  via  Palermo. 

From  Naples  to  Palermo  (193  M.).  1.  Steamers  of  the  Ferrovie  dello 
Stato  (Line  C)  daily  in  9  hrs.,  at  10.45  p.m.  (returning  at  8.30  p.m.); 
fare  25  fr.  5  or  15  fr.  65  c.  —  2.  Societa  Nasioiude,  Line  XVI  (see  below) 
every  Mon.  evening  in  12  hrs.,  and  Lines  X  &  XI  every  second  Prid.  aft. 
in  173/4  hrs.  (fares  25  fr.  5,  15  fr.  65  c.).  -—  3.  Adria  Co.  (RR.  23,  24)  every 
Thurs.  afternoon,  in  15  hrs. ;  fare  18  fr.,  without  food.  — 4.  Lloyd  Sabaudo 
1-3  times  monthly  (comp.  R.  24).  Passengers,  both  going  and  coming, 
should  rise  early  in  order  to  enjoy  the  superb  approaches  to  the  bays  of 
Palermo  and  Naples. 

From  Genoa  to  Palermo  direct  (494  M.)  every  Thurs.  (returning 
on  Wed.)  by  Line  XXII  (for  Palermo,  Trapani,  Syracuse,  and  Catania) 
of  the  Societa  Nazionale  (fare  80  or  55  fr.). 

From  Palermo  to  Tunis  (217  M.).  1.  Societa  Nazionale:  a.  Line  XVI 
(from  Naples,  see  above),  leaving  Palermo  Tues.  aft.,  Trapani  Tues. 
evening,  arrives  at  Tunis  Wed.  morning  (returning  from  Tunis  Wed. 
night,  from  Trapani  Thurs.  morning,  from  Palermo  Thurs.  evening, 
arr.  at  Naples  Fnd.  morning);  fare  from  Palermo  to  Tunis  64  fr.  25  or 
43  fr.  25  c. ;  b.  Line  XVII,  from  Palermo  to  Pantelleria  and  Tunis  (small 
cargo-boats) ,  calling  at  Castellammare  del  Golf  o,  Trapani ,  Favignana, 
Marsala,  Mazzara,  Sciacca,  and  the  island  of  Pantelleria;  dep.  from  Pa- 
lermo Thurs.  morning,  from  Mazzara  (reached  also  by  railway,  89  M.  in 
41/4  hrs. ;  18  fr.  25,  12  fr.  80,  or  8  fr.  30  c.)  Frid.  afternoon  (landing  or 
embarkation  in  fine  weather  only),  arr.  at  Tunis  Sat.  evening  (returning 
from  Tunis  on  Sun.  evening,  arr.  at  Mazzara  on  Mon.  evening,  and  at 
Palermo  Tues.  night;  fare  from  Mazzara  73  fr.  or  50  fr.  35  c.— 2.  Na- 
vigation Mixte  (Touache  Co.),  cargo-steamer  from  Palermo  to  Tunis  direct 
(coming  from  Marseilles,  R.  21),  on  Wed.  noon,  in  18  hrs.  (returning 
Thurs.  at  noon) ;  fare  60  or  40  fr.  —  Combined  tickets  (Naples-Palermo- 
Tunis)  are  available  by  either  of  the  two  companies'  boats. 

Agents  at  Naples,  Palermo,  and  Tunis,  see  pp.  137,  148,  331. 

Naples,  see  p.  135.  The  bay  is  usually  quitted  at  night.  We 
proceed  to  the  S.S.W.,  through  the  Bocca  Grande  (p.  133).  After 
about  IV4  hr.  we  skirt  the  rocky  W.  coast  of  Capri  (p.  154). 

Towards  morning  appears  to  the  S.W.  the  island  of  Ustica 
(784  ft.),  which  was  visited  by  an  earthquake  in  March  1906;  to 
the  S.E.  in  clear  weather  are  seen  Filicuri  (2543  ft.;  Greek  Phoini- 
kusa)  and  Alicuri  (2175  ft.;  the  ancient  Ericusa),  the  westmost  of 
the  Lipari  Islands  (p.  155) ;  beyond  lies  the  N.  coast  of  Sicily, 
from  Cape  Gallo  (p.  152)  and  the  finely  shaped  Monte  Pellegrino 
(p.  151)  to  the  Madonie  Mts.  (6480  ft.),  snow-clad  in  winter. 

A  scene  of  striking  beauty  is  revealed  as  we  steam  into  the 


'-T^-t 


■i  I   H 


«* 

I 

ft 

j  io,i 

V 

to  Tunis.  PALERMO.  2$-  Route.      147 

*Bay  of  Palermo,  which  opens  towards  the  E.,  between  Monte 
Pellcgrino  and  the  smaller  pointed  headland  of  Monte  Catalfano 
(1237  ft.),  backed  by  a  cirrus  of  grand  mountains,  Monte  Cuccio 
(8  148  ft.),  Monte  Grifone  (2550  ft.),  and  others.  After  passing  be- 
tween the  harbour  piers,  the  Antemurale  on  the  S.  and  the  Molo 
(lighthouse)  on  the  N.,  we  observe  on  the  left  the  shallow  old  har- 
bour of  La  Cala  (p.  149)  with  the  ruined  fort  of  Castellammare. 


Palermo.  —  Arrival.  The  steamers  from  Naples  are  berthed  at 
the  new  Santa  Lucia  Pier  (PI.  G,  4,  5);  in  the  case  of  the  others  landing 
or  embarkation  is  etfected  by  boat  (GO  c. ;  with  baggage  1  fr.).  The  custom- 
house examination  is  slight.  Porter  (facchino)  for  hand-bag  10,  trunk 
50  c.  —  From  the  pier  to  the  town  ca.  3/4  M.  (tramway  No.  1,  see  below). 
Omnibuses  or  motor-cars  from  the  hotels  await  steamers  at  the  pier.  Cabs, 
see  below. 

Hotels  (most  frequented  Feb. -April).  *Villa  Igiea,  >/4  hr.  to  the 
N.  of  the  quay,  at  the  Acquasanta  terminus  of  tramways  Nos.  1  &  7, 
near  the  sea,  with  park,  casino,  and  fine  view,  R.  from  8,  B.  2,  dej.  5, 
D.  7,  oinn.  8  fr.;  *Excelsior  Palace  (PI.  e;  G,  2),  Via  della  Liberta,  near 
the  Giardino  Inglese,  good  restaur.,  R.  from  4,  B.  lVa,  D.  6,  omn.  l'/o  fr. ; 
*H6t.  des  Palmes  (PL  a;  E,  3),  Via  Stabile  103,  R.  4-12,  B.  iya)  D.  6, 
omn.  l'/zfr.;  three  houses  of  the  first  class,  closed  in  summer.  The  fol- 
lowing, also  of  the  first  class,  are  open  throughout  the  year.  *H6t.  de 
France  (PL  c;  C,  5),  near  the  Giardino  Garibaldi,  R.  4-10,  B.  I1/.,,  D.  5, 
omn.  l'/o  fr. ;  *Trw  acria  (PL  b ;  C,  5),  with  sea  view,  entrance*  in  Via 
Butera,  R.  from  4,  B.  1V2.  D.  5,  omn.  l'/.jfr.;  Savoy  (PL  g;  E,  3),  Via 
favour,  R.  from  3,  D.  4V2,  omn.  l-l'/ofr. ;  Panormus  (PI.  k;  E,  3,  4),  Via 
Michele  Amari  11,  R.  from  2'/..,,  B.  l'/4<  dej.  21/.,,  D.  3'/2fr.  — Less  pretending 
(open  all  the  year  round):  Milano  (PL  f ;  F,  3),  Via  Emerico  Amari  114, 
R.  from  SVjj  omn.  1  fr.,  well  spoken  of;  Albergo  Vittoria  (PL  h;  D,  4), 
Via  Bandiera  31,  and  Central  (PL  d;  C,  3),  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  343, 
R.  from  2  fr.,  both  with  restaurant;  Patria  (PI.  i;  B,  4),  Via  Alloro  96 
(view  from  roof-terrace),  Cavour,  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  330,  both  hotels 
garnis  (R.  from  l'/a  fr.). 

Restaurants  (Italian  cooking;  a  la  carte).  Gran  Caffe  Nuovo,  in 
the  Teatro  Biondo  (PI.  C,  4),  Restaurant  de  Paris,  Via  Maqueda  200,  both 
good.  Plainer:  Vanini,  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  405;  Ristorante  Napoli, 
same  street,  No.  265;  Ristorante  Bologni,  same  street,  No.  381. 

Cafes  (ran-iy  frequented  in  the  morning).  Caffe  del  Teatro  Massimo 
(p.  151);  Trtnacria,  Quattro  Canti  di  L'ampagna  (PL  E,  3);  Caflisch,  Via 
Maqueda  250;  Cafe  Italia,  Via  Cavour.  —  English  Tea  Rooms,  Piazza 
Marina  41.  —  Beeb.  Gran  Caffe  Niwto  (see  above);  Trinacria  (see  above); 
Qcanbrinus,  Teatro  Massimo. 

Cabs.  For  1-4  pers.,  within  Via  Lincoln,  Corso  Tukery,  Piazza  dell' 
Indipendenza,  and  Piazza  Ucciardone,  per  drive  50  c,  from  midnight  to 
dawn  1  fr. ;  to  outer  quarters,  drive  under  «/»  hr.,  also  to  the  quay  or  the 
railway-stations  1  fr. ;  from  midnight  to  dawn  1  fr.  50  c. ;  one  hour  1  fr.  80  c, 
each  addit.  '/4  hr.  40  c  — Hand-bag  20,  trunk  40  c  — Driving  in  the  inner 
city  on  Good  Friday  prohibited.  — For  long  drives  a  bargain  should  be 
made;  thus,  to  Monreale  (p.  152),  with  stay  of  l>/2  hr.,  7-8  (or  out  of 
season  4-6)  fr. 

Tramways  (within  the  citv  10,  transfer  15  c).  Among  the  chief 
ure  i  1.  From  Piazza  Marina  (PL  C,  5)  to  Via  Francesco  Crispi  (PL  E,  F,  4), 
Piazza  Ucciardone  (PL  G,  4),  and  Acquasanta  (Villa  Igiea).  — 4.  From 
Porta  Maqueda  (PL  D,  E,  3),  to  Via  Francesco  Crispi,  Piazza  Ucciardone, 
and  J'alde  (p.  151).  — 7.  From  Piazza  Marina  to  Via  Lincoln  (PL  B,  A,  6-4; 
Central  Station),  Corso  Tukery,  Piazza  dell'  Indipendenza  (PL  B,  1),  Corso 
Alberto  Auiedeo  (PL  B-D,  1),  Politeama  Garibaldi  (PL  F,  3),  and  Acqua- 


148     Route  26.  PALERMO.  History. 

santa  (Villa  Igiea). —  9.  From  Piazza  Bologni  (PI.  C,  3)  to  Piazza  dell' 
Indipendenza,  Rocca  (p.  152),  and  Monreole  (p.  152),  every  V2  nr->  in  35  min. ; 
fare  40  (back  30)  c.  —  Above  Rocca  (gradient  ca.  1  in  8)  there  is  a  funicular 
section  1100  yds.  long. 

Post  Office.  (PI.  C,  3),  Piazza  Bologni.  —  Telegraph.  Office  (PI. 
C,  3),  Via  Maqueda  222;  also  in  the  Piazza  Marina. 

Steamboat  Lines.  Societa  Nazionale,  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  96, 
corner  of  Piazza  Marina;  Ferrovie  dello  Stato  (steamer  service),  J.  &  V. 
Florio,  Via  Roma;  Navigation  Mixte  and  White  Star,  A.  Tagliavia, 
same  street,  No.  51;  Austro- American  (p.  425),  A.  Lauria;  Cunard,  Piazza 
Marina  13;  Anchor  Line,  E.  Gr.  Orr  (see  below). 

Banks.  Banca  Commerciale,  d'ltalia,  and  di  Sicilia,  all  in  Corso 
Vittorio  Emanuele.  —  Thos.  Cook  &  Son,  same  street,  No.  155. 

Consuls.  British  ,  R.  G.  Macbean,  Via  Francesco  Crispi ;  vice-con- 
sul,  W.  A.  Morrison.  —  United  States,  H.  De  Soto,  Piazza  Castelnuovo  44. 
—  Lloyd's  Agent,  E.  G.  Orr,  Piazza  Marina. 

English.  Church.  Holy  Cross  ('Anglicana';  PI.  E,  3,  4),  Via  Stabile; 
services  every  Sun.  at  11  a.  m.  and  7  p.  m.  in  winter. 

One  Day  and  a  Half  is  the  minimum  time  for  a  glance  at  the  sights. 
1st.  In  the  forenoon,  Cappella  Palatina(p.  149),  SanGiovanni  dcgli  Eremiti 
(p.  150);  Cathedral  (p.  149),  Martorana  (p.  150),  Museum  (p.  150);  in  the 
afternoon  (best  in  the  early  morning  in  summer),  Monte  Pellegrino  (p.  151); 
in  summer,  towards  evening,  Villa  Giulia  and  the  Marina  (p.  151). — 2nd. 
In  the  forenoon,  Monreale  (p.  152). 

Palermo,  the  capital  of  Sicily,  with  250,000  inhab.,  the  seat  of 
an  archbishop  and  a  university,  lies  on  the  beautiful  bay  named 
after  it,  in  the  midst  of  the  Conca  d'Oro,  a  fertile  plain  artificially 
watered,  and  yielding  oranges,  lemons,  mandarins,  and  other  fruits 
in  profusion.  Palermo  is  also  the  chief  seaport  in  the  island,  whence 
fruit,  wine,  sumach,  and  the  sulphur  of  S.  Sicily  (79%  of  the 
world's  consumption)  are  largely  exported. 

The  city,  the  Panormus  of  antiquity,  began  its  career  as  a 
Phoenician  colony;  it  next  became  the  capital  of  the  island  under 
the  Carthaginian  domination,  but  was  conquered  by  the  Romans  in 
254  B.  0.  Next  came  the  Ostrogoths  and  the  Byzantines,  who  were 
succeeded  by  the  Aglabides  and  Fatimites  (p.  323),  who  again 
made  the  town  the  capital  of  the  island  under  the  name  of  Balerm, 
and  opened  up  Sicily  to  Moorish  culture.  When  Palermo  became 
the  residence  of  its  Norman  conquerors  (1072-1194)  they  erected 
castles  and  churches,  partly  employing  Arabian  architects  and  arti- 
ficers, whose  work  shows  a  charming  blend  of  Byzantine,  Arabian, 
and  Oriental  features.  Later,  as  the  favourite  seat  of  the  Hohen- 
staufen  (1194-1266),  Palermo  attained  the  zenith  of  its  glory.  The 
old  town,  however,  owes  its  architectural  character  to  the  Spanish 
viceroys  (16-17th  cent.),  who  chose  it  as  their  residence  in  spite 
of  the  protests  of  Messina.  Since  the  union  of  Sicily  with  the  king- 
dom of  Italy  (1860)  there  has  been  a  great  revival  of  buildiDg 
enterprise,  with  the  result  that  broad  streets  and  villa-suburbs 
have  sprung  up,  particularly  on  the  N.  side  of  the  old  town. 

From  the  Santa  Lucia  Pier  (PI.  G,  4,  5)  we  enter  the  old  town 
by  the  Via  Francesco  Crispi  (PI.  F,  E,  4 ;  tramway  No.  1,  see  p.  147), 
leading  to  the  old  Porta  San  Giorgio  (PI.  E,  4).  The  Via  Cavour 


Cathedral.  PALERMO.  26.  Route.     149 

diverges  here  to  the  right  to  the  old  Porta  Maqueda  (p.  151) ;  we 
turu  to  the  left,  cross  the  Piazza  del  Castello  (PI.  D,  5),  pass  the 
old  Fort  Castellammare,  and  skirt  the  Cala  (p.  147),  or  old  harbour, 
a  little  beyond  which  is  the  — 

Piazza  Marina  (PI.  0,  5),  where  the  beautiful  *Giardino  Gari- 
baldi recalls  the  tropics  with  its  luxuriant  vegetation. 

A  little  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Giardino  is  the  Porta  Felice  (PI. 
C,  5,  6;  p.  151),  from  which  to  the  Porta  Nuova  (PI.  B,  1;  p.  150), 
over  1  M.  distant,  runs  the  Oorso  Vittorio  Emanuele,  intersecting 
the  whole  of  the  old  town.  This  long  street  owes  its  present  form 
to  Don  Pedro  de  Toledo  (p.  138),  but  having  been  for  centuries  the 
route  from  the  harbour  to  the  castle,  it  has  retained  its  old  popular 
name  of  Cussaro  (from  the  Arabic  kasr,  castle). 

At  the  Quattro  Canti  (PL  C,  3),  the  old  business  centre  of  the 
city,  the  Corso  is  crossed  by  the  Via  Maqueda  (PI.  A-D,  4,  3; 
p.  151),  begun  by  the  viceroy  Marques  de  Villena  in  1609,  and  now 
a  second  important  artery  of  the  old  town. 

The  Corso  leads  to  the  Piazza  del  Duomo,  on  the  N.  side  of 
which  rises  the  — 

*Cathedral  (PI.  C,  2),  dedicated  to  the  Assunta,  on  the  site 
of  an  older  church  which  the  Moors  had  converted  into  a  mosque. 
The  original  Romanesque  building,  erected  by  Archbishop  Walter 
of  the  Mill  (Gualterio  Oifamilio)  after  1185,  has  been  entirely  trans- 
formed in  the  course  of  centuries,  with  the  exception  of  the  lower 
part  of  the  clock-tower  and  the  external  decoration  of  the  choir 
niche.  The  handsome  W.  facade  with  the  two  towers  which  date 
from  1300-59,  the  incongruous  dome,  and  the  modernized  internal 
decorations  are  the  work  of  the  Florentine  Fern.  Fuga  (1781-1801). 
The  right  aisle,  on  the  left  of  the  S.  portal,  contains  the  *Monu- 
ments  of  Norman  and  Hohenstaufen  monarchs. 

At  the  S.W.  end  of  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele,  beyond  the 
Piazza  della  Vittoria  (PI.  B,  2),  on  a  slight  eminence,  which  from 
the  earliest  times  has  been  the  site  of  the  castle,  rises  the  — 

Palazzo  Reale  (PI.  B,  1),  which  still  bears  traces  of  its  orig- 
inal fortified  character,  although  the  foundation  walls  alone  are 
Arabian,  and  the  central  tower  with  the  pointed  arch  (Santa  Ninfa, 
p.  150)  is  the  only  relic  of  the  Norman  part  of  the  building. 

The  last  door  on  the  left,  opposite  the  monument  of  Philip  V., 
leads  into  the  palace-yard  (sticks  and  umbrellas  are  left  with  the 
porter;  guide  1/2  fr.,  but  quite  unnecessary).  We  ascend  the  stairs 
to  the  left,  on  the  first  floor  turn  to  the  right,  and  pass  through 
the  arcaded  passage  to  the  — 

**Cappella  Palatina,  a  perfect  gem  of  mediaeval  art,  built  by 
king  Roger  II.  in  1132-40  in  the  Arabic-Norman  style  (adm. 
daily  7  to  10.30  free;  later,  week-days  till  4,  Sun.  till  3^  fee;  best 
light  in  the  morning).   In  the  interior  the  chapel  is  a  basilica  with 


150     Route  26.  PALERMO.  San  Giovanni. 

two  aisles;  including  the  choir  and  apse  it  is  36  yds.  long  and 
14yds.  in  breadth.  The  Arabian  pointed  arches  arc  borne  by  ten 
antique  columns;  the  central  dome,  59  ft.  high,  is  adorned  with 
Greek  and  Latin  inscriptions.  The  beautiful  Arabian  timber  ceiling 
in  the  nave,  with  its  Cufic  (early  Arabic)  inscription,  is  joined  to 
the  walls  by  stalactite  vaulting.  All  the  walls  are  incrusted  with 
glass-mosaics  on  a  gold  ground. 

The  palace-tower,  Santa  Ninfa,  now  an  observatory,  is  famed 
for  the  delightful  panorama  it  affords  (fee  1/.2-l  fr. ;  not  always 
accessible).  The  top  of  the  Porta  Nuova  (PI.  B,  1),  close  by,  also 
overlooks  the  city  and  the  Conca  d'Oro. 

Descending  the  steps  by  the  monument  of  Philip  V.,  we  now 
follow  the  Via  del  Bastione  a  Porta  di  Castro  and  the  Via  dei  Bene- 
dettini  to  the  ruined  church  of  *San  -Giovanni  degli  Eremiti 
(PI.  A,  B,  1,  2;  adm.  by  the  garden-gate;  fee  25  c).  The  interior 
is  in  the  form  of  a  so-called  Egyptian  cross  (p.  376),  with  three 
apses.  The  nave  is  divided  into  two  squares  by  a  pointed  arch. 
Quite  an  Oriental  effect  is  produced  by  the  five  unadorned  domes, 
which  are  best  viewed  from  the  pretty  cloisters  (now  a  garden). 
Adjoining  the  S.  side  of  the  church  is  a  dilapidated  little  mosque. 

We  now  return  to  the  Quattro  Canti  (p.  149)  and  turn  to  the 
right  into  the  Via  Maqueda.  Here,  immediately  on  the  right,  is  the 
University  (PI.  0,  3) ;  on  the  left  is  the  Palazzo  di  Citta  or  Muni- 
cipio.  Just  beyond  the  latter  is  the  small  Piazza  Bellini,  whence 
steps  ascend  to  two  old  Norman  churches  (adm.  daily  9-4,  1  fr. ; 
Sun.  free).  The  smaller,  San  Cataldo,  of  1161,  is  crowned  with 
Arabian  pinnacles.    Still  more  curious  is  the  larger  church  — 

*La  Martorana  (PI.  B,  0,  4),  named  after  its  founder,  the 
Greek  admiral  of  Roger  I.  (1143),  and  known  also  as  Santa  Maria 
dell' Ammiraglio,  a  Byzantine  edifice  with  Norman  additions,  now 
suitably  restored.  The  two  lower  stories  of  the  clock-tower  are 
part  of  the  original  church. 

From  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele,  a  little  to  the  E.  of  the 
Quattro  Canti,  runs  the  new  Via  Roma  (PI.  C,D,  4)  to  the  N.N.W.  to 
the  Piazza  San  Domenico.  On  the  E.  side  of  this  piazza  rises  the 
large  church  of  San  Domenico  (PL  D,4),  containing  monuments  to 
many  eminent  Sicilians. — Behind  the  church,  in  the  Via  Bambinai, 
is  the  Oratorio  del  Santissimo  Rosario  (keys  at  No.  16,  adjacent), 
containing  a  fine  Madonna  del  Rosario  by  A.  van  Dyck. 

Prom  the  Piazza  San  Domenico  the  Via  Monteleone  leads  to  the 
N.W.  to  the  Piazza  dell'  Olive  11a,  where  an  old  monastery  on  the 
right  contains  the  — 

Museo  Nazionale  (PI.  D,  3 ;  week-days  10-3,  1  fr. ;  Sun.  11-3, 
free,  but  not  fully  shown;  closed  on  high  festivals,  on  the  last  three 
days  of  the  Carnival,  and  in  Holy  Week). 


Museo  Xazionale.  PALERMO.  26.  Route.      151 

Ground  Floor.  From  the  Friino  Cortile,  containing  mediaeval  and  Be- 
naissance  portals,  sculptures,  and  inscriptions,  we  enter  the  Secondo  Cortile 

}once  the  cloisters),  where  ancient  sculptures  and  inscriptions  are  exhib- 
tiil.  on  the  left  Sicilian,  on  the  right  those  of  foreign  or  uncertain  origin. 

From  the  vestibule,  beyond  the  cloisters,  we  pass  through  a  small 
rora:  containing  two  Phoenician  sarcophagi  found  near  Palermo,  to  the 
Sala  di  Panormo,  with  mosaics  and  inscriptions  from  Panormus,  and  oppos- 
ite to  it  the  Sala  del  Fauno,  so  named  from  the  fine  satyr  in  the  style  of 
Praxiteles  which  it  contains. 

The  adjoining  Sala  di  Selinunte  contains  the  celebrated  *Metopes  of 
Selinus  (p.  154).  On  the  left,  between  parts  of  the  ponderous  entablature 
of  the  oldest  temple,  are  three  rude  and  primitive  metopes  of  the  beginning 
of  the  6th  cent.  B.  C.  (quadriga,  beheading  of  Medusa.  Hercules  and  the 
Cercopes);  then  the  lower  halves  of  two  metopes,  dating  from  about 
the  middle  of  the  6th  cent,  (battle  of  the  gods  and  the  giants);  on  the 
back-wall  four  metopes  of  the  early  5th  cent.,  a  period  just  before  the 
prime  of  Greek  art  (Hercules  slaying  the  queen  of  the  Amazons,  Hera 
unveiling  herself  before  Zeus,  Actason  torn  to  pieces  by  the  dogs  of  Artemis, 
Athene  slaying  a  giant). 

The  stairs  in  the  forecourt  ascend  to  the  — 

First  Floor.  The  steps  to  the  left  lead  to  the  Sala  Araba,  which 
contains  Arabian  and  Arab-Norman  antiquities  found  in  Sicily  (door-frame 
from  the  Martorana  monastery,  earthenware  vase  from  Mazzara)  and  early 
Arabian  objects  from  Cairo.  The  Corridoio  di  Ponente  contains  painted 
female  figures  (4th-3rd  cent.  B.  0.),  similar  to  the  terracottas  of  Tanagra. 
Beyond  the  cloisters  is  the  room  of  the  ancient  bronzes,  among  which  we 
note  a  fountain-group  of  Hercules  and  the  Cerynjeau  hind,  from  Pompeii, 
and  a  ram  marvellously  lifelike.  Next  come  two  rooms  on  the  left  with 
Greek  vases.  From  the  corridor  on  the  opposite  side  we  enter  the  Gabi- 
nctto  di  Numismatica.  an  admirable  collection  of  the  ancient  coins  of  Sicily 
and  of  antique  trinkets.    The  last  room  contains  gorgeous  church  vestments. 

On  the  Second  Floor  is  the  Gallery  of  Pictures,  chiefly  by  Sicilian 
masters  (Pietro  NoveUi  and  others);  a  small  winged  altar-piece  by  Jan 
Mabute  (1501?),  a  gem  of  Netherlandish  art.  should,  however,   be  noted. 

From  the  Museum  the  Via  della  Bara  leads  to  the  W.  to  the 
Piazza  Giuseppe  Verdi  (PI.  D,  3),  in  which  rises  the  Teatro 
Massimo  or  Vittorio  Emanuele,  the  largest  in  Italy.  —  At  the  N". 
end  of  the  Via  Maqueda  (p.  149)  is  the  old  Porta  Maqueda  (PI.  D, 
E,  3),  whence  the  Via  Ruggiero  Settimo  leads  into  the  broad  — 

Via  jdklla  LibertA  (PI.  P,  G,  3,  2),  a  fashionable  evening 
promenade,  ending  ;it  the  pretty  Giardino  Inylese  (PI.  G,  IT,  2). 

The  Marina,  officially  named  Foro  Umberto  Primo  (PI.  C,  13,  6), 
which  begins  at  the  Porta  Felice  (PI.  0,  5,  6;  p.  149),  near  the 
harbour,  affords  a  superb  walk  and  is  a  favourite  resort  on  summer 
evenings  after  G  (music  at  9). 

At  the  S.  end  of  (he  Marina  lies  the  "'•Villa  Giulia  or  Flora 
(PI.  A,  B,  6),  one  of  the  most  beautiful  public  gardens  in  Italy, 
where  the  blossoming  trees  diffuse  their  fragrance  in  spring  far 
around.  It  is  adjoined  on  the  W.  by  the  *  Botanic  Garden  (PI.  A,  B,  6 ; 
gardener  23-50  c),  almost  vying  with  the  famous  Jardin  d'Essai  at 
Algiers  (p.  232). 

A  visit  to  *Monte  Pellegrino  (19G8  ft.),  the  ancient  Heirkte, 
a  bare  limestone  hill  to  the  N.  of  Palermo,  should  not  be  omitted 
in  clear  weather.    (Tramway  No.  4  to  Falde,  near  the  3.  foot  of 


152     Rotde  26.  PALERMO.  From  Naples 

the  hill,  see  p.  147;  donkey,  ordered  in  the  town  beforehand, 
with  attendant,  4  i'r.) 

The  zigzag  path,  visible  from  the  town,  ascends  in  about  l1^  hr. 
from  the  Punta  di  Bersaglio,  5  min.  to  the  N.  of  Falde,  to  the  Grotto 
of  St.  Rosalia  (d.  about  1170),  which  has  been  well  described  by 
Goethe.  Near  it  are  a  cottage,  where  bread  and  wine  may  he  ob- 
tained (bargaining  advisable),  and  the  restaurant  Argos-Eden  (open 
only  on  Sun.). 

A  steep  footpath  ascends  thence  in  l/2  hr.  to  the  TeUgrafo, 
the  signal-station  on  the  summit,  where  we  enjoy  a  *View  of  the 
beautiful  basin  of  Palermo,  of  the  indented  N.  coast  of  Sicily,  and 
of  the  Lipari  Islands  (p.  146).  To  the  E.,  beyond  the  Madonie 
(p.  146)  and  the  distant  Nebrodian  Mts.,  towers  Mt.  /Etna. 

Monreale  (tramway  No.  9  and  carr.,  see  pp.  147, 148)  is  reached 
from  the  Porta  Nuova  (PI.  B,  1;  p.  150)  by  the  Corso  Calatafimi. 
Beyond  (3  M.)  La  Rocca  the  road  ascends  to  the  (3/4  hr.)  top  of  the 
'royal  hill'  (1148  ft.).  The  town  of  Monreale  (Restaur.  Savoy, 
Eden;  pop.  24,000)  owes  its  origin  to  a  Benedictine  abbey,  founded 
by  William  II.  (1174),  and  to  the  famous  cathedral  (1174-89)  built 
here  as  the  seat  of  the  second  archbishopric  in  the  island. 

The  **Cathedral  is  a  Norman  Romanesque  basilica  consisting 
of  nave,  aisles,  and  three  apses,  335  ft.  long  and  131  ft.  wide.  Ex- 
ternally the  choir  end  of  the  church,  with  its  Arabian  pointed  arches 
and  mosaic  decoration,  is  particularly  fine.  The  magnificent  main 
portal,  flanked  in  northern  style  with  two  square  towers,  has  two 
admirable  bronze  doors  by  'Bonannus  Civis  Pisanus'  (1186).  The 
doors  of  the  side-portal  are  by  Barisano.  The  pointed  arches  of 
the  nave  rest  on  granite  columns,  and  all  the  walls  are  lavishly 
decorated  with  glass  mosaics.  The  roof  (172  steps;  verger,  who 
shows  the  chapels  also,  50-75  c.)  commands  a  splendid  view. 

Of  the  Benedictine  monastery  nothing  is  now  left  except  the 
*Cloisters,  the  pointed  arches  of  which  are  adorned  with  mosaics 
and  borne  by  216  columns  in  pairs,  remarkable  for  the  variety  of 
their  capitals  and  for  the  inlaid  ornamentation  of  their  shafts  (date 
ca.  1200).  Entrai  ce  (1  fr.)  from  the  Piazza  del  Duomo  by  the  side- 
door  to  the  left.  The  custodian  shows  also  the  garden  of  the  mon- 
astery, where  we  have  a  charming  view  of  Palermo. 

See  also  Baedeker's  Southern  Italy. 


Pursuing  our  Voyage  to  Tunis  we  soon  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the 
bold  limestone  rocks  of  Monte  Pellegrino  (p.  151).  We  next  pass 
the  beautiful  Bay  of  Mondello  and  the  Cape  Gallo  and  steer  to  the 
W.,  away  from  the  Sicilian  coast  and  the  Gulf  of  Castellammare. 
That  spacious  gulf  is  bounded  on  the  E.  by  the  Punta  di  Raisi,  a 
spur  of  Monte  Orso  (2900  ft.),  and  on  the  W.  by  the  mountains  of 
San  Vito  (Monte  Sparagio  and  others). 


to  Turn*.  MARSALA.  ««■  Route.      153 

Beyond  Cape  San  Vito  (lighthouse)  appear  to  the  S.W.  Monte 
San  Giuliano  (see  below)  and  the  JEgadean  Islands.  The  French 
steamers  bound  for  Tunis  direct  pass  near  these  islands;  first 
Levanzo  (951  ft.;  ancient  Plwrbantia),  beyond  which  to  the  S.  is 
Favignana  (1070ft.;  ancient  jEgusa),  the  largest  of  the  group; 
then  Maritlimo  (ancient  Hiera),  -with  Monte  Falcone  (2245  ft.). 

The  Italian  steamer  coming  from  Naples  rounds  Monte  San 
Givliano  (2464  ft.),  a  solitary  mass  of  Jurassic  rock,  the  ancient 
Eryx,  famed  for  its  temple  of  Venus  Erycina,  and  highly  revered 
by  all  the  Mediterranean  peoples,  and  next  calls  at  — 

Trapani  (Grand-Hotel,  on  the  quay;  landing  or  embarkation, 
wilhout  baggage,  60  c. ;  Brit,  vice-consul,  G.  Marino),  the  ancient 
Drepana  (from  drepanon,  a  sickle),  so  called  from  the  form  of 
the  peninsula.  Down  to  the  first  Punic  war  this  was  merely  the 
port  of  the  ancient  Eryx,  but  it  is  now  a  thriving  commercial 
place  (pop.  3S,000).  The  chief  export  is  the  sea-salt  yielded  by 
the  extensive  evaporation  grounds  on  the  W.  coast,  towards  Marsala. 
The  coral-fishery  also  is  an  important  industry. 

The  Naples  steamer  next  passes  through  the  strait  between  the 
islands  of  Levanzo  and  Favignana  (see  above)  and  the  flat  W.  coast 
of  Sicily,  and  then  steers  to  the  S.W.  through  the  Straits  of  Pantel- 
leria  (p.  396),  between  Favignana  and  the  Isola  Grande,  towards 
Cape  Bon  (Arabic  Rds  Addar,  the  Roman  Promontorium  Mer- 
curii),  the  E.  boundary  of  the  Bay  of  Tunis  (p.  129).  High  up 
on  this  bold  headland  stands  a  lighthouse  (410  ft.),  visible  for 
32  M.  around,  one  of  the  most  important  landmarks  for  mariners 
between  Gibraltar  and  Egypt.  Beyond  the  cape  rises  Jebel  Abiod 
(1273  ft.),  with  its  semaphore.  The  islands  to  the  W.  are  Zembretta 
and  Zembra  or  Jamur  (1420  ft.;  the  ancient  JEgimv/rus). 

The  great  quarries  near  El-Aouaria  (the  ancient  Aquilaria), 
between  Cape  Bon  and  the  Rds  el-Ahmar  (318  ft.)  yielded  the 
Phoenicians  the  material  for  building  Carthage.  We  next  pass  the 
Anse  de  Thonaire,  with  its  important  tunny-fishery  (Ital.  tonnara), 
and  the  Rds  al-Fortas. 

The  steamers  usually  enter  the  Inner  Bay  of  Tunis  and  Lake 
Bahira  in  the  early  morning.    Tunis,  see  p.  329. 

The  Italian  Cakoo-Steamers  (p.  146)  first  touch  at  Castellammare 
del  Golfo,  then  proceed  to  Trapani  (see  ahove),  where  they  spend  the 
night.  They  next  pass  Favignana  (see  above),  Isola  Grande,  the  lagoon 
of  Lo  Stagnone,  and  Capo  Boeo  or  Lilibeo,  the  W.  extremity  of  Sicily. 

Marsala  (Albergo  Centrale;  Leone;  Stella  d'ltalia;  lauding  or  embark- 
ation GO  c. ;  with  heavy  baggage  I'/jfr. ;  Brit,  vice-consul,  Chas.  F.  Gray; 
pop.  58,000)  is  a  busy  trading  town,  well  known  for  its  fiery  wines.  "It 
occupies  the  site  of  LUybaeum,  the  chief  fortress  of  Carthage  in  Sicily. 
The  modern  name  is  of  Moorish  origin  (Marsa-Ali,  harbour  of  Ali). 

Skirting  the  monotonous  S.W.  coast  of  Sicily  the  vessel  next  calls 
ft*  Mazzara  del  "Vallo  (Alb.  Centrale;  Alb.  Stella;  Brit,  vice-consul, 
I  ;ira),  founded  as  Masara  by  the  Greeks  of  Solinus,  but  destroyed 
alung  with  its  mother-city  by  the  Carthaginians  in  409  B.  C. 


154     Route  2$.  PANTELLERIA. 

Beyond  Mazzara  we  pass  the  Punta  di  Granitoid,  the  Bag  el-Bddt 
of  the  Moors,  who  in  827  began  their  victorious  progress  through  the 
island,  and  the  broad  bay  of  Selinunte  (Selinus),  where  the  grandest  ruined 
temples  in  Europe  are  situated.    Beyond  Cape  San  Marco  we  come  to  — 

Sciacca  (Nuova  Italia;  pop.  25,000),  a  seaport  situated  on  a  steep 
hill,  262  ft.  above  the  sea,  with  its  mouldering  castles  of  mediaeval  no- 
bility. The  name  was  originally  Arabic,  Shdkkah.  In  ancient  times  it 
was  called  Thermae  Selinuntiae,  from  the  already  famous  vapour-baths 
in  the  caverns  at  the  foot  of  Monte  San  Calogero  (1272  ft.)  and  the  hot 
salt-springs  (132°  Fahr.). 

The  steamer  next  steers  to  the  "VV.S.W.  through  the  Straits  of  Pantel- 
leria  (p.  396),  at  a  little  distance  from  the  shallows  where  the  volcanic 
Isola  Ferdinandea,  4-5  M.  in  circumference,  rose  from  the  sea  with  a 
crater,   on  18th  July,  1831,  but  disappeared  on  12th  Jan.,  1832. 

On  the  margin  of  the  shallower  water,  in  a  great  submarine  basin 
3900  ft.  deep,  lies  the  island  of  Pantelleria,  also  belonging  to  Italy. 
Its  chief  town,  off  which  the  steamer  anchors  for  some  hours,  is  on  the 
N.W.  side.  This  volcanic  island,  32  sq.  M.  in  area,  culminates  in  an 
extinct  crater  2743  ft.  in  height,  while  numerous  'fumaroli',  or  smoking 
and  steaming  fissures,  and  hot  mineral  springs  testify  to  a  continuous 
volcanic  activity.  This  was  further  indicated  by  a  submarine  eruption 
which  occurred  in  1891,  within  3  M.  of  the  island  to  the  N.W. 

The  steamer  afterwards  Tounds  Cape  Bon  (p.  153)  and  follows  the 
same  course  to  Tunis  as  the  larger  passenger  steamers. 

27.  From  Naples  to  Syracuse  (Malta,  Tunis, 
Tripoli)  via  Messina  and  Catania. 

Fkom  Naples  to  Messina  (204  M.).  1.  Steamers  of  the  Ferrovie  deJlo 
Stato  (Line  D),  leave  Naples  Sun.  evening,  arr.  at  Messina  Mon.  morning 
(at  Reggio  at  noon;  returning  from  Beggio  same  afternoon  and  from 
Messina  same  evening) ;  fares  22  fr.  85,  14  fr.  70  c.  —  2.  Societd  Nazionale: 

a.  Line  XX  (Linea  Circolare,  see  pp.  134,  142),  dep.  from  Naples  Sat. 
aft.,  arr.  at  Messina  Sun.  morning   (returning  from  Messina  Wed.  aft.); 

b.  Line  V  (Genoa-Alexandria;  p.  134),  dep.  from  Naples  Thurs.  aft.,  arr. 
at  Messina  Frid.  morning  (returning  from  Messina  Sun.  evening);  fares  by 
these  two  lines  22  fr.  85,  14  fr.  70  c;  c.  Lines  X  &  XI,  fortnightly  from 
Naples  via  Palermo  (comp.  p.  146)  to  Messina  (fares  50  fr.  10,  33  fr.  40  c). 

From  Naples  to  Catania  (258  M.),  the  Linea  Circolare  (see  below); 
also  the  North  German  Lloyd  (Mediterranean-Levant;  RR.  23,  24)  every 
second  Mon.  (from  Catania  Tues.)  in  16hrs.;  fare  36  or  24  marks. 

Fkom  Messina  to  Syracuse  (93  M.),  only  the  Linea  Circolare,  dep. 
from  Messina  Sun.  morning,  arr.  at  Reggio  same  morning,  at  Catania  Sun. 
afternoon,  at  Syracuse  Mon.  evening  (returning  from  Syracuse  Tues.  fore- 
noon, from  Catania  Tues.  midnight,  and  leaving  Messina  for  Naples  on 
Wed.  aft.).  This  steamer  may  be  overtaken  at  Syracuse  if  we  go  by  train 
from  Messina  to  Syracuse  (comp.  p.  158),  in  which  case  there  will  be  time 
to  spend  a  night  at  Taormina  and  see  the  sunset  and  sunrise.  At  Syra- 
cuse a  drive  through!  the  old  town  should  not  be  omitted  (comp.  p.  162). 

Naples,  see  p.  135.  Steering  across  the  bay  towards  the  Penin- 
sula of  Sorrento,  we  enjoy  a  delightful  retrospect  of  Mt.  Vesuvius 
and  the  hills  around  Naples.  Farther  on  we  admire  the  bold  rocky 
N.  coast  of  the  island  of  Capri. 

After  l1/^  hr.  we  pass  through  the  Bocca  Piccola,  a  strait  3  M. 
in  breadth,  between  the  huge  cliffs  of  Lo  Capo,  the  N.E.  point  of 
Capri,  and  the  Punta  di  Campanella  (154  ft.;  lighthouse),  the 
extremity  of  the  peninsula  of  Sorrento. 


j pit  Ans rait    ^-  YV^filuT  *  Pedes  .Leipzig 


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STRAITS  OF  MESSINA.  ■      27-  Route.     155 

The  steamboat  now  proceeds  to  the  S.S.E.  towards  the  straits  of 
Messina.  We  have  a  fine  view,  in  passing,  of  the  Punta  Tragara, 
the  S.E.  headland  of  Capri,  with  the  cliffs  of  the  Faraglioni,  and 
of  the  precipitous  Monte  Soldro  (1920  ft.),  the  highest  hill  in  the 
island.  On  our  left  lies  the  broad  Gulf  of  Salerno,  with  the  bays 
of  Positano  and  Amalfi  on  the  S.  side  of  the  peninsula  of  Sorrento. 
Conspicuous  among  the  Neapolitan  Apennines  are  the  spurs  of 
Monte  Stella  (3708  ft.)  with  the  Punta  Licosa,  and  of  Monte 
Bulgheria  (4016  ft.)  with  Cape  Palinuro  (lighthouse). 

At  length,  far  off  the  coast  of  Calabria,  we  sight  to  the  S.  the 
volcanic  Lipari  or  JEolian  Islands,  the  ancient  Liparaeae  or 
JEoliae.  "We  pass  close  to  Stromboli,  the  Strongyle  of  the  Greeks, 
which  the  ancients  regarded  as  the  seat  of  iEolus,  god  of  the  winds. 
This  island  culminates  in  a  peak  (3038  ft.)  with  a  crater  on  its  N. 
side,  often  shrouded  in  smoke,  which  is  one  of  the  few  constantly 
active  volcanoes  in  Europe.  To  the  S.W.  we  descry  in  clear  weather 
Pandria  (1381  ft.),  with  its  archipelago  of  smaller  islands;  Lipari, 
the  largest  of  the  group  with  Monte  Sant' Angela  (1955  ft.);  and 
Vulcano  with  its  ever  smoking  crater  (1638  ft.). 

Off  Cape  Vaticano  (lighthouse),  a  spur  of  the  Calabrian  coast- 
hills  between  the  bays  of  Sant'Eufemia  and  Gioia,  we  sight  the  N. 
coast  of  Sicily,  with  the  Monti  Peloritani,  the  Myconius  Mons  or 
Mons  Neptuni  of  the  Romans,  overtopped  by  Mt.  JEtna  (p.  159). 
On  the  Calabrian  coast,  near  the  strait  which  was  the  chief  scene 
of  the  earthquake  of  1908  (p.  156),  appear  the  ruins  of  the  little 
town  of  Palmi,  halfway  up  Monte  Elia  (1900  ft.;  a  famous  point  of 
view),  and  those  of  Bagnara  and  of  Scilla  with  its  castle-rock. 

The  *Voyage  through  the  Straits  of  Messina  (Faro  or  Stretto 
di  Messina),  the  Fretum  Sieulum  of  antiquity,  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  in  the  Mediterranean.  Both  banks  are  luxuriantly  fertile, 
shaded  with  palms,  and  yielding  oranges,  pomegranates,  and  prickly- 
pears.  The  Calabrian  coast,  thickly  studded  with  villages,  partly 
in  ruins,  culminates  in  Montalto  (5424  ft.),  the  highest  peak  of  the 
wooded  Aspromonte,  the  ancient  Sila,  while  we  survey  the  Sicilian 
coast  as  far  as  Mt.  JEtna.  The  narrowest  part  of  the  straits,  2  M., 
is  between  the  Punta  del  Faro  (p.  158)  and  the  Punta  Pezzo, 
where  they  are  entered  from  the  Tyrrhenian  Sea;  between  Messina 
and  Villa  San  Giovanni  (p.  159)  they  are  4'/2  M.,  and  between  Capo 
di  Scaletta  (p.  158)  and  the  Punta  di  Pellaro  (p.  159)  in  the  Jovian 
Sea  83/4  M.  wide.  The  currents  which  sweep  past  the  headland 
of  Scilla  (see  above)  and  cause  strong  eddies  near  the  harbour  of 
Messina,  sometimes  augmented  by  gales,  gave  rise  at  a  very  early 
period  to  the  legend  of  Scylla  and  Charybdis,  and  Homer  has  de- 
scribed Scylla  as  a  roaring,  all-devouring  sea-monster. 

We  pass  the  lighthouses  of  the  Punta  del  Faro  and  tin  Pnnta 
di  Pezro.    Nearing  the  Harbour  of  Messina,  in  a  bay  formed  hj 


1 56     Route  27.  MESSINA .  From  Naples 

a  sickle-shaped  peninsula,  we  survey  the  ruins  of  the  city  on  the 
green  slopes  of  the  Monti  Peloritani  (p.  155),  whose  fissured  peaks 
tower  above  the  sea  of  houses,  once  so  picturesque. 

The  central  point  of  the  earthquake  of  Messina  (28th  Dec,  1908), 
caused  by  dislocation  or  subsidence,  was  the  strait  and  the  W.  slope 
of  Aspromonte  (p.  155).  The  first  terrific  shock  at  5  a.m.  was  fol- 
lowed almost  immediately  by  a  great  tidal  wave  caused  by  a  sub- 
marine earthquake,  and  aggravating  the  calamity  in  the  lower  parts 
of  the  coast  towns  and  villages.  The  effects  of  the  earthquake  were 
disastrous  also  in  Calabria  as  far  to  the  N.  as  Cosenza,  and  in  Sicily 
as  far  to  the  S.  as  Pachino  (near  Cape  Passero;  p.  411).  At  Messina 
the  sea-wave  rose  to  a  height  of  8-9  ft.,  at  Reggio  ll1/^  ft.,  and  at 
Giardini  and  Riposto  1972-20  ft.  The  area  of  the  seismic  disturb- 
ance extended  to  the  N.E.  to  Pizzo  on  the  bay  of  Sant'Eufemia 
(p.  155),  to  the  E.  to  the  mouth  of  the  Amendolea,  near  Cape 
Spartivento  and  the  small  town  of  Ferruzzano,  the  scene  of  the 
earthquake  of  1907,  and  to  the  S.  to  Riposto  (p.  158).  It  was  es- 
timated that  96,000  persons  lost  their  lives.  The  value  of  the 
buildings  destroyed  amounted  to  about  6,500,000^. 


Messina.  —  Arrival.  Landing  or  embarkation  1  fr.,  or  without 
baggage  50  c,  but  bargain  advisable.  Passengers  are  landed  at  the  quay 
(Approdo  Ferry-boats)  adjoining  the  old  Stazione  Porto,  where,  in  con- 
nection with  the  express  from  Naples  (steam-ferry  from  Villa  San  Giovanni), 
express  trains  to  Catania  and  Palermo  are  in  waiting. 

Hotels  (inquiries  should  be  made  as  to  prices),  all  with  the  exception 
of  the  Excelsior  built  of  wood  and  very  fair.  Gr.-Hot.  Regina  Elena, 
Viale  Roosevelt,  to  the  E.  of  Viale  San  Martino,  in  an  open  situation 
commanding  fine  views,  to  be  opened  in  1911;  Grand- Hotel,  R.  472-5, 
B.  lV^fr.;  Excelsior,  R.  4-10,  B.  l'/2fr.;  Belvedere,  R.  2y2-Sil2h.,  these 
three  in  the  Viale  San  Martino ;   Venezia,  Piazza  Cavallotti. 

Cab  per  drive  60  (with  luggage  80)  c,  at  night  1  fr. ;  by  time,  2  fr.  for  the 
first  hour,  and  1  fr.  50  c.  for  each  addit.  hour;  to  the  Punta  del  Faro  6-7  fr. 

Post  Office,  Viale  San  Martino.  —  Telegraph  Office  in  the  piazza 
of  the  chief  station. 

Tourist  Agency.  Mrs.  Pearce,  Via  Primo  Settembre,  opposite  the 
railway -station. 

British  Vice-Consul,  J.  B.  Heynes. 

The  town  of  Messina  was  like  Reggio  completely  destroyed 
by  the  earthquake  of  1908  (comp.  above)  and  has  now  only  80,000 
inhab.  as  against  110,000  in  1908.  Notwithstanding  this  catas- 
trophe it  was  finally  decided  in  autumn  1909  to  rebuild  the  town 
on  its  former  site.  Its  harbour,  one  of  the  best  in  the  Mediter- 
ranean, the  third  in  importance  in  Sicily,  sustained  no  damage  and 
has  even  now  a  very  brisk  trade  (1908:  3589  vessels  of  2,598,647 
tons  burden;  1910:  3148  vessels  of  2,050,733  tons  burden).  The 
great  charm  of  Messina  consists  in  the  beauty  of  its  environs  and 
the  views  they  afford,  particularly  of  the  Calabrian  coast  by 
evening  light. 


to  Syracuse.  MESSINA.  27-  Route.     157 

Originally  named  Zancle  {i.e.  sickle),  Messina  was  one  of  the  earliest 
of  the  Greek  colonies  in  Sicily,  having  been  founded  about  730  B.O.  Early 
in  the  5th  cent,  it  was  occupied  by  new  colonists  from  the  Messenian  Reggio 
(p.  159)  and  called  Messana.  From  the  earliest  times  the  Messenians  took 
a  leading  part  in  almost  all  the  political  agitations  in  the  island.  In  228 
the  Mamertines,  disbanded  mercenaries  of  Agathocles  (p.  163),  treach- 
erously seized  the  town  and  soon  afterwards  invoked  the  aid  of  the  Romans 
against  Hannibal,  thus  directly  giving  rise  to  the  first  Punic  war.  For  a 
time  Messina  enjoyed  the  special  favour  of  the  Romans,  and  even  of 
Verres,  the  notorious  proconsul,  but  when  it  became  the  naval  base  of 
Pompey,  in  36  B.C.,  it  was  plundered  by  the  soldiers  of  Octavian.  From 
the  period  of  the  Crusades,  by  which  Sicily  was  partly  affected,  date  the 
privileges  which  made  Messina  a  kind  of  free  city  and  the  seat  of  the  Sic- 
ilian opposition  to  foreign  domination.  The  failure  of  its  war  against  Spain 
(1672-8),  notwithstanding  the  help  of  French  troops  sent  by  Louis  XIV. 
and  two  naval  victories  won  by  Admiral  Duquesno  over  the  Spanish- 
Dutch  fleet  under  De  Ruyter  (1676),  caused  the  downfall  of  the  city. 
Terrible  pestilences  (the  plague  in  1740  and  cholera  in  1854),  severe  earth- 
quakes (in  1783  and  1894),  and  the  bombardment  of  the  town  by  the 
Neapolitan  fleet  (in  1818)  had  already  seriously  injured  Messina  prior  to 
its  recent  appalling  calamity. 

The  ruins  extend  along  the  shore  to  the  N.,  from  the  'sickle' 
of  the  harbour  and  the  citadel,  to  the  Giardino  a  Mare,  under 
whose  plane-trees  is  a  Camp  for  the  destitute.  The  Citadel  itself, 
with  its  broad  moats  and  its  bastions,  is  still  standing. 

On  the  Marina  or  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  (formerly  called 
also  La  Palazzata)  are  still  seen  several  palatial  facades,  inter- 
rupt! d  by  archways  and  passages  leading  to  the  parallel  Via  Gari- 
baldi. These  are  mostly  relics  of  a  uniform  row  of  palaces,  erected 
after  the  earthquake  of  1783.  Opposite  the  ruined  Palazzo  Muui- 
cipale  rises  the  Neptune  Fountain,  by  Montorsoli,  a  pupil  of 
Michael  Angelo  (1557),  with  a  colossal  statue  of  Neptune  between 
Scylla  and  Charybdis. 

Beyond  the  Via  Garibaldi  lies  the  Piazza  del  Duomo,  with 
the  almost  intact  Orion  Fountain  by  Montorsoli  (1547-51),  a  point 
which  may  be  reached  direct  from  the  Dogana  by  the  Via  Primo 
Settembre.  The  Cathedral  (la  Matrice),  founded  by  the  Normans 
in  1098,  is  now,  with  the  exception  of  the  choir  niche,  a  mass  of 
ruins.  The  short  Via  Universita  degli  Studi  led  to  the  S.E.  from 
this  piazza  to  the  University,  now  also  destroyed. 

A  few  paces  to  the  S.  of  the  University,  in  the  coast-plain  called 
the  Mosella,  between  the  Torrente  Portalegni  and  the  Torrente 
Zaera,  and  beyond  the  ruins  of  the  new  quarters  of  the  town,  lies 
the  main  Camp  of  wooden  barracks  for  the  homeless,  flanking  the 
Viale  San  Martino. 

A  good  Burvey  of  the  ruins,  as  well  as  a  superb  view  of  the  straits,  is 
obtained  from  the  old  Forte  Castellaccio,  which,  along  witli  the  modern 
forts,  the  barracks  of  the  mountain-artillery,  and  the  powder-magazine, 
has  escaped  destruction.  The  way  to  it  (35-40  min.)  is  up  the  Torrente 
Portalegni  close  to  ruined  houses;  we  then  skirt  the  Botanic  Garden, 
cross  the  Piazza  Venti  Settembre  occupied  by  barracks,  and  ascend  straight 
on  the  steep  Via  Castellaccio. 


158     Route  27.  TAORMINA.  from  Naples 

The  beautiful  Excursion  to  the  Punta  del  Faro  (cab,  see 
p.  156;  bargain  advisable)  affords  a  good  survey  of  the  devastated 
environs.  The  road  leads  from  the  Giardino  a  Mare  (p.  157)  and  the 
camp  called  Villaggio  Regina  Elena,  along  the  foot  of  the  hills,  past 
luxuriant  orchards,  and  through  the  ruined  fishing-villages  of  Sal- 
vatore  del  Greci,  Paradiso,  and  Pace;  it  then  skirts  two  lagoons, 
the  Pantano  Grande,  or  Logo  di  Ganzirri,  below  the  ruins  of 
Faro  Superiore,  a  village  famed  for  its  wine,  and  the  Pantano 
Piccolo.  On  the  Punta  del  Faro  or  Capo  Peloro  (once  Promon- 
torium  Pelorum),  the  N.E.  point  of  Sicily,  are  the  ruins  of  the 
fishing-village  of  Faro  or  Torre  del  Faro,  and  near  it  the  quite 
intact  Lighthouse  (200  steps;  keeper  50  c),  which  commands 
a  splendid  *Vie\v  of  the  Lipari  Islands  and  the  Calabrian  coast  as 
far  as  Cape  Vaticano  (comp.  p.  155). 

From  Messina  to  Syracuse,  115  M.,  railway  in  6Vi-7  his. ;  fares  22  fr.  60, 
15  fr.  85,  10  fr.  25  c.  (journey  may  be  broken  once;  to  Giardini-Taorm ina, 
3OV2  M.,  in  l'/»-2  hrs.).  The  quick  trains  start  from  Messina  harbour 
(comp.  p.  156);  the  morning  train,  which  runs  to  Syracuse  harbour,  has  a 
dining-car  (diij.  2V2  f  r-).  The  train  skirts  the  coast,  affording  fine  views; 
it  crosses  the  stony  channels  of  several  torrenti  or  flumare,  which  are 
generally  dry,   and  pierces  a  number  of  headlands   by  means  of  tunnels. 

7'/a  M.  Galati;  12  M.  Scaletta  Zanclea,  with  a  picturesque  castle,  not 
far  from  the  Capo  di  Scaletta;  15'/n  M.  All,  with  sulphur-baths.  Beyond 
the  (23  M.)  beautiful  cape  of  Sant'Alessio,  with  a  deserted  castle,  we  sight 
the  headland  of  Taormina. 

3OV2  M.  Giardini-Taormina.  The  village  of  Giardini  lies  in  a  small 
bay,  in  a  malarious  region,  l'/4  M.  beyond  the  Capo  di  Taormina.  Taor- 
mina is  reached  by  road  (3  M.),  by  a  bridle-path,  or  by  a  steep  footpath. 
(Diligence  1  fr. ;  down,  50  c;  carr.  according  to  number  of  party,  2-5  fr.; 
heavy  luggage  had  better  be  left  at  the  station.) 

Taormina  (673  ft.;  San  Domenico  Palace  Hotel,  Hotel  Castello  a 
Mare,  Timeo,  International,  Villa  San  Pancrazio,  Metropole,  all  often 
crowded  from  15th  Jan.  to  April  and  closed  in  summer;  plainer,  San  Gior- 
gio, Victoria,  Naumachia,  etc.;  Brit,  vice-cons.,  Dr.  S.  Cacciola-Cartella;  pop. 
4000),  the  ancient  Tauromenium,  a  highly  picturesque  little  town,  lies 
on  the  S.E.  spurs  of  Monte  Venere  (2900  ft.),  and  is  overlooked  by  a 
ruined  Castle  (1300  ft.)  and  by  the  village  of  Mola  (2083  ft.).  Its  chief 
attraction  is  the  * Ancient  Theatre,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  town,  which  is 
open  daily  till  dusk.  Originally  Greek  it  was  entirely  remodelled  in  the 
Roman  period.  The  spectators'  area  (cavea),  almost  wholly  hewn  in  the 
rock,  is  357  ft.  in  diameter,  and  the  orchestra  (seats  for  persons  of  dis- 
tinction) 115  ft.;  the  stage  (pulpitum)  is  particularly  well  preserved.  The 
*View  from  the  site  of  the  theatre  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  Italy, 
especially  in  the  morning,  when  the  sun  rises  above  Calabria  or,  in  winter, 
from  the  sea,  imparting  a  rosy  hue  to  the  snowy  peak  of  Mt.  iEtna 
(p.  159),  and  gilding  the  rocky  heights  beyond  the  theatre. 

Between  Taormina  and  Catania  the  train  crosses  a  number  of  the  lava- 
streams  descending  from  Mt.  iEtna.  On  the  northmost  of  these,  near 
Schisb,  between  the  bay  of  Giardini  and  the  mouth  of  the  Alcantara 
(Arabic  al-kantara,  the  bridge),  lay  Naxos,  founded  in  735  B.  C,  the 
oldest  Greek  colony  in  Sicily. 

41  M.  Giarre-Riposto,  the  station  for  the  country-town  of  Giarre 
and  for  the  seaport  of  Riposto  which  has  a  brisk  trade  in  wine.  It  is 
also  the  starting-point  of  the  railway  round  the  W.  side  of  Mt.  .(Etna 
('Ferrovia  CircumetneV ;  68V2  M.  in  length). 

51  M.  Acireale  (525  ft.;  Sicil.  Iaci),  a  wealthy  country-town  built  on 


to  Syracuse.  REGGIO.  »7.  Route.     159 

several  lava-streams  and  much  frequented  as  a  bathing-place  on  account 
of  its  mineral  springs  (sulphur,  salt,  and  iodine).  —  Near  (55'/a  M.)  Ad 
Cash  ll'i  we  perceive  on  the  left  in  the  sea  seven  cliffs  of  columnar  basalt, 
the  Scoali  de'C'iclopi  or  Islands  of  Cyclops,  the  rocks  which  according 
to  Greek  myth  the  blinded  Polyphemus  hurled  after  the  crafty  Ulysses. 

59'/..,  M."  Catania,  see  p.  160. 

Running  inland  the  train  enters  the  Plana  di  Catania,  the  plain  of 
the  rivers  Simeto  and  Gornalunga,  which  is  often  flooded  in  winter.  This 
was  the  region  of  the  Laestrygovian  Fields  of  antiquity,  extolled  by  Cicero 
as  the  'uberrima  Sicilise  pars',  and  still  the  granary  of  the  island.  To  the 
right,  beyond  the  Monti  Cartina,  in  a  malarious  district  lies  the  Lago 
di  Lentini,  the  largest  lake  in  Sicily.  On  the  left,  beyond  (77'/2  M.) 
Lentini,  Greek  Leontinoi,  is  the  swampy  lagoon  Pantano  di  C'arlentini . 
We  pass  numerous  salt-works  and  suow-white  pyramids  of  sea-salt. 

94  M.  Augusta  (the  ancient  Xiphonia),  a  seaport  with  16,000  inhab., 
lies  in  a  site  similar  to  that  of  Syracuse,  on  the  N.  margin  of  the  Bay 
of  Mcgara,  which  is  bounded  by  the  headlands  of  Santa  Croce  and  Santa 
Panagia  (p.  162).  98V2  M.  Migara  Iblea,  not  far  from  the  site  of  the  Greek 
colony  of  Megara  Eyblea.  On  the  left  is  the  Penisola  Magnisi,  the 
ancient  Thapsos,  on  the  N.  side  of  which  lay  the  fleet  of  the  Athenians 
during  their  expedition  against  Syracuse  (p.  163). 

The  train  passes  the  small  bay  of  Trogilos,  where  the  fleet  of  Mar- 
cellus  once  anchored  (p.  163),  and  a  tunny-fishery  (tonnara),  runs  through 
a  cutting,  and  skirts  the  limestone  plateau  near  Cape  Santa  Panagia.  To 
the  left  we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  sea  and  the  modern  town,  and  at  length 
reach  the  (115  M.)  harbour-station  of  Syracuse  (p.  162). 


From  Messina  to  (8  M.)  Eeggio,  a  delightful  trip,  especially 
by  morning  light,  either  by  one  of  the  steamers  mentioned  at 
p.  154  or  by  one  of  the  ferry-boats  (comp.  p.  156).  To  the  left, 
nearly  opposite  Messina,  is  the  little  town  of  Villa  San  Giovanni 
(p.  155),  now  in  ruins,  as  are  also  the  villages  of  Catona,  Gallieo, 
Archi,  and  others  farther  to  the  S. 

Reggio  (Alb.  Veneto-Trentino,  a  temporary  hotel-restaurant), 
before  the  earthquake  of  1908  a  town  of  35,000  inhab.,  called 
Reggio  Calabria  to  distinguish  it  from  Reggio  in  the  Emilia,  lies 
at  the  W.  base  of  the  Aspromonte  (p.  155).  The  ancient  Rhegium, 
originally  a  Euboean  colony,  but  occupied  by  new  Messenian  settlers 
in  723  B.C.,  has  been  destroyed  eight  times  in  war  and  twice  by 
earthquakes  (1783  and  1908).  Its  last  disaster  was  most  appalling 
in  the  upper  quarters.  Along  the  shore  and  in  the  piazzas  the 
survivors  are  now  living  in  huts.  The  Strada  Reggio  Canvpi 
above  the  town  oilers  a  beautiful  view  especially  towards  evening. 

On  the  Voyage  to  Catania  we  enjoy  a  splendid  view  of  the 
whole  of  the  straits  as  far  as  the  Punta  del  Faro  (p.  158),  and  later 
of  the  coast  of  Calabria  from  the  Punta  di  Pellaro  (p.  155)  to  the 
Capo  dell'Armi.  On  the  Sicilian  coast  rise  the  Monti  Peloritani 
(p.  155)  and  the  majestic  ML  JEtna  (10,958  ft.;  Ital.  Etna),  the 
highest  volcano  in  Europe,  with  its  countless  minor  craters  and  the 
great  Valle  del  Bove,  the  remains  of  the  enormous  oldest  crater, 
3  if.  broad,  bounded  by  rocky  slopes  of  1900-3900  ft.  in  height. 
The  view  is  specially  striking  beyond  Taormina  (p.  158),  and  we 


160     Route  27.  CATANIA.  From  Naples 

obtaiii  also  a  good  idea  of  the  volume  and  the  direction  of  the  old 
lava-streams.  After  sixteen  years'  quiescence  fresh  flows  of  lava 
were  emitted  in  the  Yalle  del  Bove  in  1908  and  from  the  volcano's 
S.  slope  in  1910. 

Beyond  Acireale  (p.  158)  and  Cape  Molini,  the  N.  limit  of  the 
broad  Bay  of  Catania,  we  sight  the  Scogli  de'  Ciclopi  (p.  159). 
As  we  enter  the  harbour  of  Catania  we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  S. 
side  of  iEtna. 

Catania.  —  Arrival.  The  steamers  anchor  in  the  Nuovo  Porto 
(PI.  F,  G,  6),  whence  passengers  are  rowed  (60  c. ;  with  baggage  1  fr.)  to 
the  Dogana  (PI.  F,  G,  5)  in  the  Porto  Vecchio,  a  harbour  very  much 
contracted  by  the  lava-stream  of  1669  (see  below). 

Hotels.  *Grande  Bretagne  (PI.  a;  F,  4),  Via  Lincoln,  R.  3Va-6,  B. 
1V2,  dej.  31/2,  D.  5Vo  fr. ;  ^Bristol  &  du  Globe  (PI.  c;  E,  4),  Via  Santa  Maria 
del  Rosario,  R.  3V2-6,  B.  l>/8,  dej.  3,  D.  4i/2fr.;  Centrale  Europa  (PI.  d; 
E,  5),  cor.  of  the  Piazza  del  Duomo  and  Via  Raddusa,  R.  272-4,  omn.  3/4  fr., 
well  spoken  of;  and  others. 

Restaurants.  Marconi,  Piazza  Universita  15,  good;  Savoia,  Via 
Marietta  15,  behind  the  Municipio.  —  Gaffe  Tricomi,  Via  Stesicoro  Etnea 
30;  Gaffe  Amato,  Via  Stesicoro  Etnea  151.  —  Birreria  Svizzera,  Via  Stesi- 
coro Etnea  139  (dej.  21/2,  D.  3  fr.),  music  in  the  evening,  good. 

Steamboat  Agents.  Societa  Naxionale,  Piazza  Duca  di  Genova  18 
(PI.  F,  5) ;  North  German  Lloyd,  Munzone,  Mineo,  &  Co.,  same  piazza,  No.  3. 

British  Vice-Consul,  W.  A.  Franck.  —  Post  &  Telegraph  Office 
(PI.  E,  4),  Via  Manzoni. — English  Church  Services. 

Tramways.  The  chief  line  is  from  the  railway-station  (Stazione 
Sicula;  PI.  H,  4)  through  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  to  the  Piazza  del  Duomo 
(PI.  E,  5) ;  then  to  the  N.  through  Via  Stesicoro  Etnea  to  the  'Ingresso' 
of  Villa  Bellini  (PI.  E,  2)  aud  Piazza  Gioeni.  — Cab  40  (at  night  50)  c.  per 
drive ;  first  hour  l>/a  fr.  (two-horse  2  f r.  30  c). 

Catania,  a  wealthy  town  of  162,000  inhab.,  the  largest  in 
Sicily  after  Palermo,  the  seat  of  a  university,  a  bishop,  and  a  nat- 
ural science  academy,  has  lately  become  the  chief  outlet  for  the 
products  of  the  island,  especially  those  of  the  extremely  fertile  en- 
virons. Katana,  founded  like  Naxos  by  Eubceans,  about  729  B.C., 
became  famous  as  the  home  of  Charondas,  the  framer  of  the  earl- 
iest Greek  code  of  law  (about  640).  In  the  Athenian  and  Syra- 
cusan  war  (p.  163)  it  formed  the  Athenian  base  of  attack.  Katana 
was  one  of  the  first  places  in  Sicily  occupied  by  the  Romans,  and 
under  their  sway  became  one  of  the  most  populous  towns  in  the 
island.  In  the  middle  ages  it  vied  for  a  time  with  Palermo  and 
Messina  as  a  favourite  residence  of  the  Aragon  sovereigns.  It  has 
repeatedly  suffered  severely  from  the  eruptions  of  Mt.  iEtna  (espec- 
ially in  122  B.C.  and  in  1669)  and  from  earthquakes  (1169  and 
1693),  and  the  present  town  has  been  built  almost  entirely  since  1693. 

From  the  Porto  Vecchio,  into  which  falls  the  brook  Amenana 
after  passing  through  the  lava  under  the  town,  we  walk  through 
the  Pescheria  (fish  and  provision  market)  to  the  — 

Cathedral  (PI.  E,  5;  visible  from  the  sea),  begun  by  the  Nor- 
man Roger  I.  with  materials  from  the  ancient  theatre  (p.  161), 


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to  Syracuse.  CATANIA.  »?•  Route.     161 

but  almost  entirely  destroyed  by  the  earthquake  of  1169.  In  the 
choir  repose  the  Aragon  sovereigns  of  the  14th  cent. ;  in  the  right 
side-apse  are  treasured  the  remains  of  St.  Agatha,  who,  like  St.'Ro- 
s.i'n  (p.  152),  was  one  of  the  most  famous  saints  of  Sicily,  and 
whose  veil  is  said  to  have  diverted  the  lava-stream  of  1669  (PI.  B, 
1-3)  from  the  city  at  a  point  near  the  Benedictine  monastery  (see 
below).  Opposite,  on  the  right,  is  the  monument  of  the  viceroy 
Acufia  (d.  1494),  quite  Spanish  in  style.  By  the  second  pillar  on 
the  right  is  the  tomb  of  Vine.  Bellini,  the  composer,  a  native  of 
Catania  (1802-35). 

In  the  Piazza  del  Dtjomo  rises  a  fountain  with  an  antique  ele- 
phant in  lava,  bearing  an  Egyptian  obelisk  of  granite.  Past  its  N. 
side  runs  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele,  with  the  Piazza  dei  Martiri 
and  (he  statue  of  St.  Agatha  at  its  E.  end  (PL  G,  5).  We  follow  the 
Corso  to  the  W.  to  the  Via  Sant'Agostino,  by  the  church  of  that 
name  (PI.  D,  5),  and  here  turn  to  the  N.  past  the  entirely  altered 
Roman  Odeum  (comp.  p.  349)  to  the  Via  del  Teatro  Greco.  Here, 
near  the  corner  on  the  right,  at  No.  37,  is  the  entrance  to  the  — 

Ancient  Theatre  (PI.  D,  4,  5 ;  custodian  at  No.  33 ;  fee  50  c), 
once  a  fine  structure,  but  now  so  buried  in  lava  that  some  parts  of 
it  can  be  explored  only  by  candle-light.  The  foundations  alone 
date  from  the  Greek  period.  —  In  the  Piazza  Dante,  a  little  to  the 
N.W.,  is  the  suppressed  Benedictine  monastery  of — 

San  Nicolb  (PI.  C,  D,  4),  or  San  Benedetto,  dating  in  its  pre- 
sent form  from  the  early  18th  cent.,  with  an  imposing  baroque 
church.  The  extensive  buildings  now  contain  barracks,  a  school,  the 
civic  museum,  the  library,  aud  the  observatory.  The  church-tower 
(entr.  through  the  portal  to  the  S.  of  the  facade;  gratuity)  commands 
a  panoramic  *View  of  the  town.  lit.  iEtna,  and  the  Sicilian  and 
Calabrian  coasts,  which  is  finest  before  9  a.m. 

At  the  Piazza  Dante  begins  the  Via  Lincoln  (PL  D-F,  4),  the 
second  great  thoroughfare  of  the  town  running  W.  to  E.,  partly  hewn 
through  the  lava-stream  of  1669.    This  street  is  crossed  by  the  — 

Via  Stesicoro  Etnea  (PL  E,  5-1),  which  intersects  the  whole 
town,  from  the  Piazza  del  Duomo  (see  above)  to  the  N.  end.  Here 
rise  the  chief  public  buildings  of  Catania,  the  Municipio  (PL  E,  5), 
the  University,  and  the  Prefettura  (PL  E,  4). 

Farther  to  the  N.  is  the  Piazza  Stesicoro;  on  its  left  side  is 
the  church  of  San  Cdrcere  (PL  E,  3),  with  an  interesting  Norman 
portal  brought  from  the  cathedral.  Close  by  the  N.  part  of  a  Roman 
Amphitheatre  has  been  laid  bare  (greater  diameter  138,  smaller 
116  yds.);  the  unusually  large  arena  (77  by  55  yds.)  is  second 
only  to  that  of  the  Colosseum  (94  by  59  yds.). 

Still  farther  to  the  N.,  on  the  left,  is  the  entrance  to  the  Villa 
Bellini  (PL  E,  2),  a  public  park  with  fine  views. 

After  returning  to  the  Porto  Vecchio  we  may  follow  the  Via 


162     Boute27.  SYRACUSE.  Practical  Notes. 

Scuto  to  the  picturesque  Castello  Ursino  (PI.  D,  6),  dating  from 
the  time  of  Emp.  Frederick  II.  (after  1239).  The  quarter  to  the 
E.  of  the  castle  is  almost  the  only  relic  of  the  old  town. 


On  the  Voyage  to  Sybacuse  the  steamer  proceeds  to  the  S.E. 
at  some  distance  from  the  Piana  di  Catania  (p.  159),  affording  a 
splendid  view  astern  of  Mt.  JEtnn,  and  passes  Capo  Campolato, 
Capo  Santa  Croce  (p.  159),  and  the  Bay  of  Megara. 

As  we  enter  the  Bay  of  Syracuse,  hounded  on  the  N.  by  the 
plateau  of  Capo  Santa  Panagia  (p.  159),  and  on  the  S.E.  by  the  low 
Penisola  delta  Maddalena  (177  ft.),  the  ancient  Plemmyrion,  we 
obtain  an  excellent  idea  of  the  site  of  the  present  island-city,  and 
of  the  vast  extent  of  the  ancient  city  on  the  mainland  to  the  N.W., 
stretching  up  the  hill  to  the  village  of  Belvedere  (p.  166). 

The  entrance  to  the  inner  bay  of  the  Porto  Grande,  now  much 
choked  with  sand,  between  the  lighthouse  at  the  end  of  the  island 
and  that  of  the  peninsula,  behind  the  cliff  of  La  Galera,  is  only 
1312  yds.  across.  In  the  swampy  and  in  summer  malarious  plain 
on  the  W.  bank  of  the  harbour  are  the  mouths  of  the  rivers  Andpo 
and  Ciani,  the  ancient  Anapos  and  Kyane. 

Syracuse.  —  Arrival  by  Sea.  The  steamers  anchor  near  the 
landing-place  at  the  Porta  Marina  (Scalo;  comp.  Map).  Landing  or  em- 
barkation 50  c,  with  baggage  1  fr. 

Railway  Stations.  The  Central  Station  (Stazione,  see  Map)  is  on 
the  Floridia  road  (p.  165),  1  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  the  town.  The  expresses 
run  down  to  the  Stazione  Porto. 

Hotels  (advisable  to  ask  charges  beforehand).  *Grand-H6t.  Villa 
Politi  (V.  P.  on  the  Map),  on  the  mainland,  near  and  in  the  Latomia  dei 
Cappuccini  (p.  165),  with  beautiful  garden  and  fine  views,  R.  4-8,  B.  l1^, 
dej.  3'/2.  D.  5,  pens.  10-16,  omn.  IV2  fr. ;  *H6t.  des  Etrangers  (formerly 
Oasa  Politi),  near  the  Arethusa  Fountain,  similar  charges;  *  Grand- Hotel, 
Piazza  Mazzini,  close  to  the  busy  harbour,  similar  charges.  —  Second-class: 
Alb.  Soma,  Via  Roma  64,  R.  l8/4-3  fr.,  well  spoken  of;  Alb.  Firenze,  Via 
Roma  73,  R.  from  IV2  fr. ;  Alb.  Cavour,  Via  Savoia,  behind  the  Dogana, 
R.  IV2-3  fr- ;  these  three  with  restaurants  (Ital.  cuisine). 

Cafe.     Croce  di  Savoia,  Piazza  del  Duomo. 

Cabs.  (Night  fares  from  V2  hr-  after  sunset  till  sunrise.  Fares  should 
be  ascertained  before  starting.)  Per  drive  in  the  town  (incl.  harbour- 
station)  40  c,  with  pair  1  fr.,  at  night  70  c.  or  IV2  fr. ;  to  or  from  chief 
station  65  c.  or  li/2  fr.,  at  night  90  c.  or  1  fr.  90  c.  (luggage  over  25  kilos 
or  55  lbs.  25,  over  50  kilos  or  1  cwt.  50  c);  first  hour  IV2  or  2l/2  fr.,  each 
addit.  V2  hr.  60  c.  or  IV2  fr.  —  For  a  long  drive  it  is  best  to  choose  one's 
own  vehicle  in  the  Piazza  del  Duomo.  For  an  afternoon  (noon  till  V2  nr- 
after  sundown)  5  or  10  fr.,  whole  day  10  or  20  fr.  Cheaper  fares  may 
generally  be  agreed  upon  out  of  the  season. 

Steamboat  Agents.  —  Societa  Nazionale,  Via  Ruggiero  Settimo  38, 
close  to  the  Dogana;  Hungarian  Adria  Co.,  also  Lloyd's  Agents,  Gaet. 
Bozzanca  &  Figlio. 

British  Vice-Consul,  Joseph  Lobb.  —  Post  &  Telegraph  Office,  Via 
Roma. 

English  Church  Service  in  winter. 

One  Dat.  The  chief  sights  in  the  modern  town  are  the  Cathedral, 
the  Museum,  and  the  Arethusa  Fountain  (p.  164).    The  greater  part  of  the 


SIRACUSJU 

Sea  la  nel    1:50.000 


Chalometri. 
^Abbreviation!:  C.  Casa  .X:Latonviiu. 


I'?  S.Pnnagia, 


History.  SYRACUSE.  27.  Route.     163 

day  should  be  devoted  to  the  ancient  town.  The  most  interesting  places 
there  (the  Euryelus  excepted)  may  be  visited  by  carriage  in  3-4  his.: 
Latomia  dei  Cappuccini  (p.  165),  Catacombs  of  San  Giovanni  (p.  165),  Amphi- 
theatre (p.  166),  Hiero's  Altar  (p.  166),  Greek  Theatre  (p.  166;  best  towards 
sunset  for  the  sake  of  the  view).  Walkers  should  ferry  direct  from  the 
Prigioni  in  the  town  to  the  N.  bank  of  the  Porto  Piccolo  (10  a). 

Syracuse,  Ital.  Siracusa,  the  most  populous  town  in  Sicily  in 
ancient  times,  and  indeed  the  most  important  of  all  the  Hellenic 
cities,  now  a  mere  shadow  of  its  glorious  past,  with  27,000  inhab. 
only,  lies  on  an  island  separated  from  the  mainland  by  a  narrow 
strait.  It  was  founded  under  the  name  of  Syracusae  by  Corinthians, 
in  734  B.  C,  on  the  island  then  called  Ortygia,  where  a  Phoenician 
settlement  had  perhaps  already  existed.  Endless  party  conflicts 
between  the  nobles  and  the  townspeople  led  in  485  to  the  inter- 
vention of  the  tyrant  Gelon  of  Gela,  who  made  Syracuse  his  res- 
idence. In  alliance  with  Theron  of  Acragas  (Girgenti)  he  de- 
feated the  Carthaginians  at  the  battle  of  Himera  in  480,  the  same 
year  in  which  the  victory  of  Salamis  (p.  506)  saved  the  mother- 
country  from  destruction.  The  Syracusans  thereafter  gradually 
extended  their  sway  over  the  greater  part  of  Sicily  till  the  year  415 
when  to  their  dismay  the  Athenians,  instigated  by  Alcibiades,  inter- 
vened in  Sicilian  politics,  and  with  the  aid  of  the  neighbouring 
towns  of  Catana  and  Leontinoi  (p.  159)  proceeded  to  besiege  the 
city.  In  413  the  might  of  Athens  was  for  ever  shattered  before  the 
walls  of  Syracuse,  but  the  dread  of  being  attacked  anew  by  the 
Carthaginians  induced  the  Syracusans  to  entrust  their  government 
to  the  tyrant  Dionysius  I.  (406-367),  next  to  the  Persian  monarchs 
the  most  powerful  prince  of  his  age,  who  refortiiied  and  embellished 
the  city.  The  tyrant  Agathocles  (317-289)  conducted  a  brilliant 
expedition  against  Carthage,  but  without  permanent  success.  The 
last  phase  of  the  glory  of  Syracuse  was  witnessed  in  the  long  reign 
of  Hiero  II.  (275-216).  As  the  Syracusans,  after  his  death,  allied 
themselves  with  Hannibal,  their  city  was  besieged  by  Marcellus 
in  214-212,  and  after  its  capture  was  sacked  and  destroyed.  Since 
then  it  has  never  again  taken  any  part  in  political  life,  but  in  spite 
of  its  downfall  it  is  still  one  of  the  most  interesting  places  in  the 
whole  of  Sicily,  while  the  beauty  of  its  environs  is  hardly  less 
fascinating  than  the  monuments  of  its  glorious  past. 


a.  The  Modern  Town. 

From  the  harbour-station  (p.  162)  the  broad  Corso  Umberto 
Primo  (p.  165)  crosses  the  strait  to  the  island  on  which  lies  the 
Modern  Town,  whose  narrow  winding  streets  are  still  of  mediaeval 
type.  A  pleasant  walk,  with  a  view  of  Mt.  J5tna,  is  by  the  Foro 
Vittorio  Emanuele  Secondo  and  Passeggio  Aretusa,  leading  from 
the  Piazza  Mazzini  and  the  landing-place  (p.  162)  along  the  harbour. 


164     Route  27.  SYRACUSE.  «•  Modern  Town. 

In  the  grounds  at  the  S.  end  of  the  promenade  is  a  statue  of  the 
famous  mathematician  Archimedes,  who  defended  his  native  city 
against  Marcellus.  Near  it  is  the  Fontana  Aretusa,  enclosed  by 
papyrus-shrubs.  From  this  point  the  Via  Maniace  leads  to  the  S.E. 
to  the  Castello  Ma?iiace,  a  Hohenstaufen  castle  at  the  S.  end  of 
the  island,  completed'  under  Emp.  Frederick  II.  in  1239,  but  now 
modernized.    To  the  N.  of  the  Fontana  lies  the  Piazza  del  Duomo. 

The  Cathedral  is  built  into  a  Doric  temple,  probably  of 
Minerva,  the  beauty  of  which  was  extolled  by  Cicero  in  his  oration 
against  Verres  (p.  157).  It  stood  on  a  basement  of  three  steps, 
about  61  yds.  long  and  24  yds.  broad.  The  ancient  columns  with 
their  entablature  still  project  on  the  N.  side,  and  in  the  interior 
nineteen  columns  also  are  visible. 

The  Archaeological  Museum,  opposite  the  cathedral,  to  the 
N.W.,  contains  valuable  antiquities,  mostly  Sicilian,  from  the  ear- 
liest ages  down  to  the  Christian  period.  Adm.  on  week-days,  Oct.- 
June  9-3,  July-Sept.  8-2,  lfr. ;  Sun.  (not  all  rooms  accessible) 
10-2,  free. 

Ground  Floor.  In  Boom  I,  Early -Christian  inscriptions  and  the 
sarcophagus  of  Adelfia  (5th  cent.)  from  the  catacombs  of  San  Giovanni 
(p.  165).  In  Rooms  III-V,  Greek  inscriptions,  sarcophagi,  cinerary  urns, 
and  architectural  fragments.  Room  VI.  Earthenware  sarcophagi  from  Gela 
(6-5th  cent.  B.C.),  Hellenistic  and  Roman  sculptures.  Room  VII.  Chiefly 
Greek  sculptures.    In  Room  VIII,  a  fine  Venus  Anadyomene  (Hellenistic). 

The  Staircase  and  First  Floor  (Rooms  XI  and  XVII-XIX)  contain 
the  ancient  historical  collection,  showing  the  progress  of  Sicilian  culture 
from  the  pre-Greek  period  (from  the  15th  cent.)  down  to  the  5th  cent.  B.C. 
—  Rooms  XII,  XIII.  Greek  vases  from  Sicily  and  Lower  Italy,  archaic 
bronzes   and    coins   from    ancient   Sicily.     Rooms   XIV-XVI.  Terracottas. 

The  mediaeval  and  modern  collections  of  the  Museum  are  to  be  trans- 
ferred to  the  Palazzo  Bellomo,  a  building  of  the  15th  cent.,  in  the  Via 
Capodieci  running  to  the  E.  from  the  Fontana  Aretusa. 

The  Via  Cavour  leads  to  the  N.  from  the  Piazza  del  Duomo 
to  the  Via  Diana,  where  on  the  left  are  the  ruins  of  the  so-called 
Temple  of  Diana  (keys  at  the  barber's  opposite;  fee  30  c),  bat 
now  believed  to  have  been  dedicated  to  Apollo.  This  is  one  of 
the  most  curious  of  Greek  temples.  In  front  stood  two  rows  of  six 
columns  each.  The  side-walls  were  of  unusual  length  and  were 
each  probably  flanked  by  nineteen  columns. 


b.  The  Ancient  City. 

Long  before  the  Athenian  campaign  (p.  163)  Ancient  Syracuse 
had  extended  her  boundaries  far  beyond  her  island  of  Ortygia  and 
across  the  high  plateau  to  the  N.  to  the  bay  of  Trogilos  and  the 
present  tonnara  near  Cape  Santa  Panagia  (p.  159).  The  earliest 
extension  consisted  in  the  Aehradina,  the  smaller  half  of  which 
lay  between  the  great  harbour  and  the  plateau,  while  the  larger 
half  occupied  the  E.  margin  of  the  latter,  and  was  enclosed  by  a 


b.  Ancient  City.  SYRACUSE.  27.  Route.      165 

wall  whose  ruins  still  exist.  Adjoining  the  Achradina  on  the  W. 
were  the  Xeapolis,  or  new  city,  on  a  terrace  above  the  great  har- 
bour, and  the  quarter  named  Tyche  after  a  temple  of  the  goddess 
of  Fortune.  The  Epipolae,  the  fifth  and  highest  quarter,  on  the  "W. 
side  of  the  plateau,  was  the  chief  base  of  the  Athenian  besiegers; 
but  it  was  only  completed  after  Dionysius  I.  had  (about  402-385) 
enclosed  the  entire  half  of  the  plateau  stretching  from  the  Achra- 
dina wall  westwards,  with  a  huge  city-wall,  and  had  built  the 
fortress  of  Euryelus  at  itsW.  end.  The  circumference  of  the  city, 
which  however  embraced  a  good  deal  of  unoccupied  land,  was  thus 
no  less  than  17  M.    Of  the  enclosing  wall  101j2  M.  still  exist. 

We  begin  with  the  Achradina.  The  Corso  Umberto  Prinio 
(p.  163),  the  main  street  of  the  new  suburb  on  the  mainland,  leads 
in  lOmin.  to  a  round  piazza  whence  radiate  theFloridia  road,  passing 
the  central  station,  and  the  Catania  and  Noto  roads.  The  remains  of 
columns  on  the  drilling-ground  between  this  piazza  and  the  small 
harbour  probably  belonged  to  a  superb  Agora  or  market-place. 

From  this  point  we  follow  the  Catania  road  to  the  N.,  whence 
an  avenue  soon  diverges  to  the  right  to  the  Porto  Piccolo  (ferry, 
see  p.  163),  now  choked  with  sand,  and  leads  along  the  shore,  below 
the  suburb  of  Santa  Lucia,  aud  across  a  railway  cutting,  to  (25  min.) 
the  Capuchin  Monastery  (now  a  poor-house).  Close  by,  on  the 
right,  is  the  entrance  to  the  — 

*Latomia  dei  Cappuccini  (adm.  30  c),  one  of  the  wildest 
and  grandest  of  the  old  quarries  of  Syracuse,  now  clothed  with  rich 
vegetation.  It  was  here  probably  that  the  7000  Athenian  prisoners 
of  war  languished  in  413  B.  C. 

Following  the  road  to  the  W.  we  skirt  the  plateau  and  pass  the 
Cimitero  to  (10  min.)  the  road  coming  from  the  upper  Achradina, 
and  go  on  by  a  cart-road,  whence,  by  the  Latomia  del  Casale,  we 
see  the  Catania  road  before  us  and  the  church  of  San  Giovanni 
below,  on  the  left. 

San  Giovanni  occupies  the  W.  part  of  an  old  Norman  basilica; 
steps  in  the  N.E.  corner  lead  to  the  crypt  of  St.  Marcian  (4th  cent.). 
A  monk,  who  shows  the  church  also  if  desired  (fee  J/2-l  fr. ;  ring, 
on  the  S.  side,  door  to  the  E.  of  the  vestibule),  conducts  us  to  the  — 

*Catacombs  of  San  Giovanni,  which  like  most  of  the  cata- 
combs of  Syracuse  and  its  environs,  far  surpass  those  of  Rome  in 
extent.  The  main  passage  of  this  great  burial-place  (4-7th  cent. 
A.D.),  10  ft.  high  and  6  ft.  wide,  runs  through  the  rock  from  W. 
to  E.  for  116  yds.,  and  from  it  diverge  short  lateral  passages  ending 
in  circular  chambers.    Of  the  mural  decoration  little  is  now  left. 

A  little  farther  to  the  W.  we  cross  the  Catania  road  to  the 
region  of  Neapol*is,  and  follow  the  road  leading  to  the  Greek 
theatre.  To  the  left,  in  5  min.,  we  reach  the  house  of  the  custodian 
(V,  fr.)  of  the  Roman  — 


166     Route  27.  SYRACUSE.  b.  Ancient  City. 

Amphitheatre,  constructed  in  the  time  of  Augustus,  153  by 
130  yds.  in  area.  In  the  arena  lie  many  blocks  of  the  marble  para- 
pet belonging  to  a  restoration  of  the  3rd  century. 

About  120  yds.  farther  to  the  W.  is  the  entrance,  also  on  the 
left,  to  the  great  Altar  of  Hiero  II.  (30-50  c).  On  this  vast  altar, 
219  yds.  long  and  25  yds.  broad  and  originally  rising  in  two  huge 
steps  to  a  height  of  34J/2  ft.,  were  probably  sacrificed  the' annual 
hecatombs  of  450  bulls  in  memory  of  the  expulsion  of  the  tyrant 
Thrasybulus  (466). 

Opposite  we  see  the  Latomia  del  Paradiso,  an  ancient 
quarry  95-130  ft.  deep,  so-named  from  the  most  luxuriant  vege- 
tation which  now  clothes  it  (entrance  through  the  gateway  on  the 
left).  In  its  W.  slope  is  the  so-called  Ear  of  Dionysius  (entrance 
below,  on  the  left),  an  S-shaped  cavern,  71  yds.  deep,  6-12  yds. 
wide,  and  76  ft.  high,  tapering  at  the  top.  with  remarkable  acoustic 
properties.  As  the  tyrant  is  said  to  have  had  prisons  where  from 
a  certain  spot  he  could  hear  every  whisper,  the  tradition  has  been 
arbitrarily  associated  with  this  cavern. 

The  road  next  passes  under  the  modern  arches  of  the  aqueduct 
and  reaches,  on  the  right,  the  *Greek  Theatre  (5th  cent.  B.C.), 
one  of  the  largest  in  the  Hellenic  world.  It  is  hewn  in  the  rock, 
forming  more  than  a  semi-circle.  Its  diameter  is  147  yds.;  46  tiers 
of  seats  are  still  preserved;  the  eleven  lower  rows  were  covered 
with  marble.  Towards  sunset  We  have  a  delightful  *View  of  the 
town,  the  Porto  Grande,  the  headland  of  Plemmyrion,  and  the  sea. 

Above  the  theatre  is  the  so-called  Nymphaeum,  a  grotto  into 
which  the  aqueduct  (see  below)  was  led.  On  its  left  side  the  Via 
delle  Tombe,  hewn  in  the  rock,  ascends  in  a  curve  for  165  yds.,  with 
many  lateral  cuttings  and  tomb-chambers  of  the  late-Roman  age. 

From  the  Catania  road,  1/i  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  hranch-road  to  the 
Greek  theatre,  diverges  to  the  left  the  New  Euryelus  Road,  3  M.  long. 
It  leads  to  the  W.,  soon  passing  the  C'asa  del  Gesuiti,  to  which  walkers 
may  ascend  direct  from  the  Nymphaeum.  It  runs  parallel  with  an  Ancient 
Aqueduct  ('Acquedotto  Galerrni'),  crosses  the  desolate  plateau,  very  hot 
in  summer,  once  the  site  of  the  Greek  Neapolis  and  of  Epipolae  (p.  165), 
and  joins  the  old  Euryelus  road  beyond  the  S.  wall  of  Dionysius  I.  A 
little  farther,  where  the  road  diverges  to  the  left  to  the  village  of  Belve- 
dere and  the  Posto  Semaforico  or  Tele'grafo  (617  ft.;  fine  view),  is  the 
C'asa  dei  Viaggiatori  (rfmts. ;  open  from  15th  Jan.  to  15th  May).  Our  road 
ends   on   the  W.  side  of  Euryelus,   130  yds.  from  the  custodian's  house. 

The  *Euryelus  (adm.  50  c),  the  'outer  fort'  of  the  Epipolae,  built 
about  400  B.C.,  at  the  junction  of  the  N.  and  S.  walls  of  Dionysius,  is 
one  of  the  best-preserved  of  ancient  Greek  fortifications.  The  five  mas- 
sive towers  on  the  W.  side,  whence  we  survey  the  whole  site  of  ancient 
Syracuse  and  enjoy  a  fine  view  ranging  from  Mt.  2Etna  to  Calabria,  are 
flanked  with  two  deep  moats  hewn  in  the  rock.  In  the  first  of  these  are 
subterranean  apertures  for  sallying  purposes. 

We  may  return  to  Syracuse  by  the  Old  Euryelus  Road.  On  the 
S.  side  of  the  plateau  it  joins  the  Floridia  road,  1V4  M.  from  the  station. 


■  Bougie  * 


VI.  ALGERIA. 


Route  Page 
Geographical  and  Historical  Sketch.  Preliminary  Inform- 
ation        168 

28.  Oran 175 

a.  The  Harbour  and  the  Old  Town,  178.  — b.  The  New 
Town,  180.  —  c.  Environs  (Fort  Santa  Cruz,  Belvedere, 
Mers  el-K6bir,  Promenade  des  Falaises),  182. — From  Oran 
to  Hammam  Bou-Hadjar,  184. 

29.  From  Oran  to  Tlemcen 185 

From  Oran  to  Ain-Teniouchent.  From  Al'n-Temouchent 
to  Tlemcen  vii  Pont-de-1'Isser  or  Beni-Saf,  185. 

30.  Tlemcen 187 

Mansura,  193.  — Sidi  Bou-Medine,  194.  — Agadir,  196. 

31.  From  Tlemcen  to  Nemours  via  Lalla-Marnia  .     .     .     197 

Ondjda,  197. 

32.  From  Oran  to  Beni-Ounif  de  Figuig  (Colomb-Bechar) 

via  Damesme  and  Perregaux 199 

From  Damesme  to  Arzew,  199.  —  From  Tizi  to  Mascara, 
200.— From  A'in-Sefra  to  Tiout,  202. 

33.  From  Oran  to  Algiers 206 

Kalaa.  From  Relizane  to  Mostaganem;  to  Tiaret,  207.--- 
Mazouna,  208.  —  From  Orleansville  to  Tenes,  209.  — 
From  Affreville  to  the  Cedar  Forest  of  Teniet  el-Haad, 
210.  —  From  Miliana  to  Margueritte.  From  Bou-Medfa 
to  Hammam  Rhira,  212.  —  From  Blida  to  Berrouaghia. 
From  Boghari  to  Ghardal'a  via  Djelfa  and  Laghouat,  215. 

34.  Algiers 217 

a.  Lower  Quarter  of  the  Old  Town  (Harbour,  Mosqu6e  de 
la  Pecherie,  Great  Mosque,  Jardin  Marengo,  Archev§che\ 
Cathedral,  National  Library),  222.  — b.  The  Kasha,  226.— 
c.  Mustapha-Superieur  and  Environs  (Museum,  Chemin 
du  TcSlemly,  Birmandreis),  228.  — d.  The  S.E.  Suburbs 
(Jardin  d'Essai,  Hussein-Dey,  Kouba),  232.  —  e.  El-Biar 
and  Bouzardah  (Foret  de  Balnem),  233.  —  f.  Notre-Dame 
d'Afrique  and  St.  Eugene,  235. 

35.  From  Algiers  to  Tip:iza  and  Cherchell 236 

a.  Via  Castiglione 236 

Jebel  Chenoua,  242. 

b.  Via  El-Affroun  and  Marengo 243 

36.  From  Algiers  to  Cape  Matifou  and  to  Aln-Taya  via 

Maison-Carree 247 

L'Arba,  247.  — Rovigo,  248. 

37.  From  Algiers  to  Bougie  via  Beni-Mausour      .     .     .     249 

Aumale,  250.  — Thubusuctu,  252. 

Baedeker's  Mediterranean.  H 


168  ALGERIA. 


Route  Page 

38.  From  Algiers  to  Tizi-Ouzou.    From  Camp-du-Mare- 

chal  to  Tigzirt 252 

Port-aux-Poules.  From  Mirabeau  to  Boghni,  253.  —  From 
Mirabeau   to  Dra  el-Mizan,  254.  —  Taksept,  256. 

39.  From  Tizi-Ouzou  via  Fort -National  to  Maillot  or 

Tazmalt 256 

From  Fort-National  through  the  Djemaa  Valley  to  Mi- 
chelet;  to  Boghni,  257. — The  Jurjura  Mts.  Icherridene, 
258.  — The  Lalla  Khedidja,  259. 

40.  From  Fort-National  via  Azazga  to  Bougie       .     .     .     260 

Toudja,  262. 

41.  Bougie 262 

Cape  Carbon,  264.  —  Arise  des  Aiguades.  Jebel  Gouraya, 
265. 

42.  From  Bougie  through  the  Chabet  el-Akra  to  Setif    .     265 

From  Souk  et-Tenine  to  Djidjelli.  Mila,  267.  —  From 
Kerrata  via  Ain-Abessa  to  Setif,  268.  — Pdrigotville,  269. 

43.  From  Algiers  to  Constantine  via  Beni-Mansour,  Setif, 

and  El-Guerrah 269 

From  Bordj-Bou-Arreridj  to  Bou-Saada,  270. — Djemila. 
From  Ouled-Rahmoun  to  Ain-Beida  and  Khenchela,  272. 
—  A'in-el-Hammam,  273. 

44.  From  Constantine   to    Biskra  via   El-Guerrah  and 

Batna 274 

The  Medracen,  274.  —  Zana.  Jebel  Touggour,  275.  —  Jebel 
Metlili.  Gorges  deTilatou,  277.  — The  Aures  Mts.,  278.— 
Environs  of  Biskra,  281.  —  From  Biskra  to  Sidi-Okba, 
283. —  From  Biskra  to  M'chounech;  to  Touggourt,  284. — 
The  Oued  Rhir.  From  Touggourt  to  Nefta  via  El-Oued. 
The  Souf,  285. 

45.  From  Batna  via  Lambese  to  Timgad      .     .     .  286 

Ichoukkan,  296. 

46.  Constantine 297 

47.  From  Constantine  to  Philippeville    .     .  .     .     303 

From  St.  Charles  to  Bona,  303. 

48.  From  Constantine  to  Bona  via  Duvivier     ....     306 

Announa  (Tbibilis),  307.  — Bugeaud,  811. 

49.  From  Constantine   or  Bona  via  Duvivier  to  Souk- 

Ahras  (Tebessa,  Tunis) .     312 

From  Souk-Ahras  to  Khamissa,  813. 

50.  From  Souk-Ahras  to  Tebessa 313 

Madaura.    Vasampus,  314. 


Algeria,  the  central  part  of  Barbary  (Arab.  Jezirat  el-Magh- 
reb) and  since  1830  a  French  colony,  covers  an  area  of  about  77,500 
sq.  M.,  or,  including  the  S.  territories  (p.  170),  about  342,500  sq. 
M.,  and  contains  5,232,000  inhab.  (4^2  million  Mohammedans  and 
730,000  Europeans,  mostly  of  French,  Spanish,  and  Italian  origin). 


ALGERIA.  169 

It  extends  from  Oried  Kiss,  which  was  substituted  for  the  MuliLya 
(p.  93)  by  the  Morocco  treaty  of  1845,  to  Cape  Roux  (p.  131), 
the  boundary  of  Tunisia,  and  from  the  Mediterranean  to  the 
Highlands  of  Ahaggar  in  the  interior  of  the  Sahara.  The  arbitrary 
division  of  N.  Algeria  into  the  three  departements  of  Oran,  Alger, 
and  Constantine  is  a  survival  of  the  Turkish  administration.  The 
orographical  regions,  sharply  defined  except  towards  the  E.,  are 
the  Tell  Atlas  (p.  xxx),  the  E.  prolongation  of  the  Rif  Mts.  (p.  93), 
the  Great  Steppe,  and  the  Sahara  Atlas. 

The  Tell  Atlas  (Atlas  Tellien),  the  most  important  part  of 
this  vast  territory,  consists  of  two  parallel  ranges  of  folded  hills 
of  recent  origin,  which  intersect  a  great  basin  stretching  from  the 
Atlantic  to  the  bay  of  Tunis.  The  highest  points  of  the  range  next 
the  coast  are  the  Traras  (3727  ft.),  the  Dahra  (5181  ft.),  the  Atlas 
of  Blida  (5345  ft.),  the  Jurjura  Chain  (7572  ft.)  in  Great  Kabylia, 
and  the  Babor  Range  (6575  ft.)  in  Little  Kabylia.  In  the  interior 
rise  the  Tlemcen  Group  (6047  ft.),  the  Ouarsenis  (6512  ft.),  the 
Jebel  Dira  (5938  ft.),  and  the  Hodna  Mts.  (6112  ft.),  which  last 
form  the  only  considerable  link  between  the  Tell  and  the  Sahara 
Atlas.  The  Littoral,  842  M.  in  length,  with  long,  precipitous,  and 
almost  inaccessible  stretches,  has  ever  been  dreaded  on  account 
of  its  storms ;  it  is  broken  by  the  bays  of  Oran,  Arzew,  Algiers, 
Bougie,  Philippeville,  undBona,  but  does  not  possess  a  single  good 
natural  harbour.  Flanking  the  coast,  in  front  of  the  Tell  Atlas, 
are  several  ranges  of  lower  hills  (Sahel),  as  the  Sahel  of  Oran, 
between  Lourmel  and  the  mouth  of  the  Chelif,  the  Sahel  of  Algiers, 
and  the  Sahel  of  Collo,  while  the  Edongh  Group  (3307  ft.),  com- 
posed of  crystalline  rock,  forms  an  independent  mountain.  The 
extensive  plains  behind  the  Sahels,  which  at  Oran  are  marshy 
(Marais  de  la  Macta)  and  have  besides  the  remains  of  great  salt 
lagoons  (Sebkha  d'Oran  and  Salines  d' Arzew),  and  especially  the 
Mitidja  near  Algiers,  once  a  bay  of  the  sea,  and  the  Blaine  de 
Bone,  are  the  most  fertile  and  richly  cultivated  parts  of  Algeria. 

The  Hauts-Plateaux  or  Great  Steppe,  an  almost  unwatered 
region,  was  originally  a  deep  depression  between  the  Tell  and  the 
Sahara  Atlas,  which  in  the  course  of  thousands  of  years  was  gradu- 
ally filled  up  with  the  alluvial  deposits  of  mountain-torrents,  and 
thus  converted  into  a  great  and  monotonous  undulating  plain,  2300- 
3300  ft.  above  the  sea-level.  The  saline  and  gipseous  soil  is  very 
sterile  and  is  only  at  a  few  places  adapted  for  the  culture  of  grain, 
but  has  proved  suitable  for  sheep-grazing.  In  the  depressions  of 
the  steppe  lie  a  number  of  extensive  shotts  or  salt-lakes,  which 
in  summer  are  dry  and  recognizable  only  by  their  dazzling  snow- 
white  incrustation.  Among  these  are  the  Chott  Gharbi  (Rharbi) 
and  the  Chott  ech-Chergui  in  Oran,  the  Zahres  Gharbi  and  Zahres 
Chergui  in  Algiers,  and  the  Chott  el- Hodna  at  Constantine. 

11* 


170  ALGERIA. 

The  Sahara  Atlas  (Atlas  Saharien)  forms  the  great  barrier 
between  Algeria  and  the  desert.  It  is  'a  region  of  grand  and  wildly 
fissured  gorges,  partly  caused  by  erosion  in  the  pluvial  period,  of 
valleys  worn  by  torrents,  of  lofty  plains  converted  into  mountains, 
and  of  marine  basins  now  filled  up'  (Theob.  Fischer).  The  chief 
heights  are  the  Montagues  des  Ksour  (7004  ft.),  a  prolongation  of 
the  much  higher  Morocco  Atlas  (p.  93),  Jebel  Amour  (6467  ft.), 
the  Monts  des  Ouled-Na'il  (5295  ft.),  and,  beyond  the  depression 
of  the  Monts  du  Zab  (4304  ft.),  the  Aurts  Mts.  (7634  ft.),  which 
are  wooded  in  their  N.  half,  and  next  to  Great  Kabylia  have  the 
finest  hill-scenery  in  Algeria. 

The  Sahara,  which  belongs  to  the  Territoires  du  Sud  or  de 
Commandement,  governed  by  the  military  'Bureaux  Arabes',  con- 
sists of  the  Bassin  du  Gourara  or  Bassin  de  VOued  Saoura  on 
the  W.,  a  plateau  330-2600  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  of  the  Bassin  du 
Melrir,  named  after  the  Chott  Melrir,  on  the  E.,  lying  partly  be- 
low the  sea-level.  Within  this  desert  region,  which  is  divided  by 
the  limestone  plateau  of  the  Mzab,  are  distinguished  the  Hamma- 
das,  or  lofty  plateaux,  with  rocky  or  hard  clay-soil,  entirely  water- 
less and  sterile,  and  the  Areg  (sing.  Erg),  the  extensive  sand-hills 
rising  a  few  hundred  feet  above  the  plains.  From  the  Sahara  Atlas 
and  from  the  hills  of  the  S.  Sahara  descend  numerous  water-courses, 
mostly  subterranean,  towards  the  plains,  enabling  the  natives  by 
means  of  irrigation  to  form  a  girdle  of  oases,  which  like  the  coast- 
plains  are  apt  to  be  malarious  in  summer. 

Climatically  also  Algeria  is  a  land  of  striking  contrasts.  The 
rainfall  in  the  provinces  of  Algiers  and  Constantine,  on  the  coast, 
and  especially  in  the  higher  parts  of  the  Tell  Atlas,  is  abundant 
(thus  at  Algiers  25  inches,  at  Blida  37,  Bougie  411/2,  Fort-National 
45  inches).  Being  partly  sheltered  from  the  rainy  N.W.  winds  by 
the  Tell  Atlas,  the  Hants- Plateaux  have  a  lower  rainfall  (16- 
20  inches),  which  as  in  the  Tell  often  takes  the  form  of  snow- 
storms. In  the  Sahara  Atlas  and  the  Sahara  itself,  where  the  dry 
trade-winds  prevail  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  the  rainfall 
diminishes  considerably  as  we  go  southwards  (thus  at  Biskra  7,  at 
Golea  23/4  inches).  Even  in  the  coast-lands,  however,  the  prolonged 
drought  of  summer  necessitates  the  use  of  artificial  irrigation  by 
means  of  barrages  across  the  valleys.  The  temperature  on  the  coast 
varies  comparatively  little  (thus  at  Algiers  54'/2°  Fahr.  in  winter, 
74°  in  summer),  but  the  moisture  of  the  air  renders  it  almost 
unbearably  hot  in  summer.  On  the  Hauts-Plateaux,  on  the  other 
hand,  in  the  Sahara  Atlas,  and  notably  in  the  Sahara,  there  are 
great  extremes  of  heat  and  cold,  the  variations  not  only  between 
summer  and  winter,  but  also  between  day  and  night  (in  consequence 
of  the  great  evaporation  after  hot,  cloudless  days)  being  very  marked 
(thus,  minimum  at  Constantine  16°  Fahr.,  at  Aln-Sefra  ll1/^,  at 


ALGERIA.  171 

Geryville  ^jf,  at  Touggourt  19y2°;  maximum  at  Geryville  109°, 
at  Biskra  118°,  at  Touggourt  122°). 

The  fauna  of  Algeria  is  comparatively  poor.  The  Barbary  lion 
and  the  ostrich  have  been  exterminated,  and  the  panther  is  now 
rare;  but  we  occasionally  see  camels,  hyaenas,  jackals,  maned 
sheep  (p.  277),  one  species  of  ape  (Magot,  Macacus  ecaudatus),  a 
few  poisonous  snakes,  and  the  unduly  dreaded  scorpion.  The  flora 
on  the  other  hand  is  strikingly  rich  and  varied.  In  the  coast-zone 
occur  all  the  usual  Mediterranean  plants.  In  the  Tell  Atlas  there 
still  exist,  in  spite  of  the  wanton  destruction  of  trees  by  the  natives, 
remains  of  ancient  forests  of  cork-trees  (Quercus  suber),  evergreen 
oaks  (Quercus  Ilex  and  Quercus  cenis),  Aleppo  pines,  and  occasion- 
ally of  cedars  (p.  210).  In  marked  contrast  to  this  vegetation  is 
that  of  the  great  steppes,  where  the  saline  plants,  the  meagre  dwarf- 
palms  (Chamserops  humilis),  and  particularly  the  alfa  (halfa)  or 
esparto  grass  (Macrochloa  tenacissima),  of  which  immense  quantities 
are  exported  chiefly  from  the  province  of  Oran,  proclaim  the  pro- 
ximity of  the  sterile  and  dreary  desert.  At  Bou-Saada  (p.  270),  in 
the  hottest  S.  valleys  of  the  Sahara  Atlas,  and  in  the  oases  of  the 
Sahara  we  find  the  home  of  the  date-palm  (Phoenix  dactylifera, 
Arabic  nakhl),  whose  fruit  is  the  chief  food  of  the  poorer  classes 
and  also  an  important  article  of  commerce,  whose  sap  yields  palm- 
wine,  whose  trunks  afford  building  material,  and  with  whose  leaves 
are  made  the  mats  and  bedding  of  the  natives. 

The  majority  of  the  native  inhabitants,  who  in  the  S.  regions, 
away  from  the  oases,  are  chiefly  nomadic,  are  Berbers  (p.  94). 
These,  however,  since  the  immigration  of  the  Beni  Hilal  and  Beni 
Solei'm  (p.  323),  have  mingled  with  Arabs  much  more  than  in  Mo- 
rocco, and  outside  of  their  mountain  fastnesses  have  completely 
exchanged  their  own  individuality  for  that  of  the  Arab.  The  town 
populations,  especially  in  the  province  of  Algiers,  are  composed  of 
a  motley  assemblage  of  Moors,  descended  from  Spanish  Moriscoes 
or  from  pirates  (largely  Christian  apostates),  of  Kabyles  (p.  252), 
Mozabites  (p.  216),  BisJcris  (p.  280),  and  lastly  of  Kuluglis, 
descended  from  Turks  and  Moorish  women.  The  Jews,  partly 
settled  in  Barbary  since  ancient  times,  partly  immigrants  from 
Spain,  have  enjoyed,  unlike  the  Mohammedans,  the  full  rights  of 
citizenship  since  1870,  but,  though  thriving  materially,  they  are 
hardly  superior  in  culture  to  the  less  favoured  inhabitants. 

Down  to  the  end  of  the  middle  ages  Algeria  was  historically 
inseparable  from  Tunisia  and  Morocco  (see  pp.  95,  187,  188,  322). 
After  the  whole  coast  as  far  as  the  Atlantic  had  been  colonized  by 
the  Carthaginians,  and  the  whole  of  S.  Algeria  by  the  Romans,  but 
with  diminishing  energy  as  they  proceeded  from  E.  to  W.,  a  period 
of  decadence  set  in.  Troubles  began  with  the  revolt  of  the  Circum- 
celliones,  and  were  succeeded  by  the  party  strife  between  Catholics 


172  ALGERIA. 

and  Donatists,  by  the  religious  persecutions  under  the  Arian  Vandal 
kings  (p.  322),  by  the  misgovernment  of  the  Byzantines  (534-698), 
and  by  the  irruption  of  the  Arabs  (p.  322).  During  the  Moorish 
period,  as  Algeria  only  formed  an  independent  state  for  a  time 
under  the  lbadites  (p.  323)  and  the  Hammadites  (p.  263),  while  in 
the  W.  regions  the  kingdom  of  Tlemcen  (p.  188)  was  afterwards 
founded,  it  proved  a  constant  apple  of  discord  between  the  powerful 
dynasties  of  Morocco  and  Tunisia.  The  intrusion  of  the  Spaniards 
(p.  178)  next  led  to  the  intervention  of  the  Turks  and  to  the  estab- 
lishment of  a  piratical  state  by  Horuk  Barbarossa  (comp.  p.  221). 
Under  the  sway  of  France  great  improvements  have  been  introduced ; 
many  of  the  most  fertile  regions  on  the  coast  and  in  the  Tell  Atlas 
have  become  state  property  and  that  of  French  companies  or  of 
industrious  colonists  (mostly  Spaniards,  S.  French,  Alsatians,  and 
Lorrainers),  and  the  long  neglected  seaports  have  awoke  to  new 
life.  The  whole  country  has  been  opened  up  by  a  network  of  ex- 
cellent roads,  and  railways  have  been  carried  to  the  confines  of 
the  Sahara.  In  the  towns,  with  the  exception  of  Tlemcen  and  Con- 
stantine,  most  of  the  old  Moorish  and  Turkish  buildings  have  been 
superseded  by  French.  While  but  few  specimens  of  Moorish  arch- 
itecture have  been  spared  by  enthusiasts  for  improvement,  there 
still  survive  in  the  Hauts-Plateaux  some  interesting  relics  of  Roman 
buildings,  recently  unearthed  from  the  oblivion  of  centuries,  and 
now  carefully  preserved  from  further  destruction. 

For  much  fatigue  and  privation  the  traveller  in  Algeria  will 
be  compensated  by  many  a  glimpse  of  picturesque  Oriental  manners 
and  costumes  and  by  the  varied  scenery  of  the  peaceful  and  luxur- 
iantly fertile  plains,  the  wild  mountains,  and  the  stony  and  sandy 
wastes  of  steppe  and  desert.  Most  striking  of  all  are  the  wonderful 
effects  of  light  and  shade  on  land,  sea,  and  sky,  under  the  glorious 
African  sunshine.  Amid  the  manifold  green  hues  of  the  rich  sub- 
tropical vegetation,  enlivened  by  a  wealth  of  flowers  and  blossom, 
gleam  the  dazzling  white  Moorish  country-houses  and  Mohammedan 
shrines  (kubbas  or  marabouts)  and  the  red-tiled  roofs  of  the  moun- 
tain villages  and  the  European  settlements.  Travellers  penetrating 
from  the  coast  to  the  Sahara  will  marvel,  especially  in  winter,  at 
the  extraordinary  clearness  of  the  atmosphere  and  the  gorgeous 
sunsets,  such  as  neither  Italy  nor  Greece  can  boast  of,  awakening 
in  every  beholder  an  enthusiastic  admiration  for  the  desert. 

Notwithstanding  the  considerable  rainfall  (p.  170)  and  the  occasional 
gales  to  which  it  is  exposed,  the  town  of  Algiers  is  a  favourite  winter 
resort.  The  best  months  for  travelling  on  the  sea-board  and  the  Hauts- 
Plateaux  are  April,  May,  and  November,  and  for  the  Sahara  February 
and  March.  The  favourite  goals  are,  in  the  province  of  Oran:  Oran, 
Tlemcen,  and  Figuig;  in  the  province  of  Algiers:  Teniet  el-Haad,  Miliana, 
Hammam  Ehira,  Blida,  Fort-National,  and  Michelet;  and  in  the  province  of 
Oonstantine:  Bougie,  theChabet  el-Akra,  Oonstantine,  Timgad,  El-Kautara, 
Biskra,  and  Tebessa. 


ALGERIA.  173 

The  Railways,  with  the  exception  of  the  Chemins  de  Fer  Alg6riens 
de  l'Etat,  belong  to  three  private  companies,  the  Paris-Lyon-M6diterranee 
Alg<5rien,  the  Ouest  Algenen,  and  the  Bone-Guelma  (et  prolongements). 
Tliey  are  all  single  lines.  The  express  on  the  chief  line,  that  from  Algiers 
.::,  travels  26%  M.  an  hour  only;  the  speed  of  the  ordinary  trains 
is  12-19  M.  per  hour.  On  all  the  main  lines  dining  and  sleeping  cars  are 
provided.  On  the  branch-lines  the  trains  often  have  one  first-class  car- 
riage only.  For  night  journeys  in  the  Hauts-Plateaux  the  heating  by 
means  of  foot-warmers  is  inadequate.  In  E.  Algeria  the  traffic  is  some- 
times stopped  for  several  days  in  winter  by  snow-drifts  and  cloud-bursts. 

The  time-tables  are  to  be  found  in  the  Livret  A.  Jourdan  (Indicateur 
des  Chemins  de  Fer,  de  la  Navigation,  etc.;  50c),  in  the  Livret-Chaix 
(Guide  pour  les  Chemins  de  Fer  de  I'Algerie,  de  la  Tunisie  et  de  la  Corse; 
50  c.),  or  in  the  Indicateur  Officiel  (Guide-poche  Algerien  par  L.  Chappuis; 
60  c).  Greenwich  time  (ca.  59  min.  behina  mid-European  time),  which  has 
been  recently  introduced  in  France,  is  observed  everywhere.  Travellers 
should  go  to  the  ticket-office  early,  as  the  officials  have  much  writing  to  do 
and  their  proceedings  are  slow.  In  the  larger  towns  tickets  may  usually 
be  taken  and  luggage  booked  beforehand  at  the  town-office  of  the  railway 
company.  As  in  France  each  passenger  is  allowed  30  kilos  (about  66  lbs.) 
of  luggage.  Return-tickets  (billets  d'aller  et  retour)  for  a  distance  of  50  kilo- 
metres (31  M.)  are  valid  for  two  days,  for  distances  over  400  kilom.  (248  M.) 
for  at  least  seven  days.  The  Indicateurs  above  named  contain  further  in- 
formation as  to  return -tickets  'collectifs  pour  families',  'collectifs  d'ex- 
cursion',  and  'demi-places',  which  last  only  benefit  those  who  make  a  stay 
of  several  months  in  the  colony. 

As  the  roads  are  good  and  the  trains  slow,  those  who  can  bear  the  ex- 
pense will  often  find  a  Motor  Car  the  swiftest  and  pleasantest  kind  of 
conveyance.  Among  fine  motoring  trips  may  specially  be  noted  those  from 
Oran  to  Tlemcen  (comp.  p.  184);  from  Algiers  to  Castiglione,  Tipaza,  Ham- 
mam  Rhira,  Affreville,  and  Teniet  el-Haad,  returning  via  Blida  and  Bou- 
farik;  from  Algiers  to  CapeMatifou,  Menerville,  Tizi-Ouzou,  Fort-National, 
and  Michelet  (Tazmalt);  from  Bougie  through  the  Chabet  el-Akra  to  Ker- 
rata,  or  vi4  Djidjelli  and  Mila  to  Constantine;  also  from  Algiers  or  Con- 
stantine  to  Biskra.  The  maximum  speed  allowed  in  towns  and  villages  is 
lfi  kilometres  (9>/2  M.)  an  hour,  on  highroads  30  kilom.  (19  M.)  per  hour. 
The  cars  offered  for  hire  in  the  larger  towns  are  generally  good  machines 
of  15-60  horse-power. 

Where  neither  railways  nor  motor-omnibuses  are  available  persons 
of  limited  means  travel  by  Diligence  (see  time-tables  in  Jourdan's  Indi- 
cateur, mentioned  above).  Besides  the  'Courrier',  or  postal  diligence,  there 
is  sometimes  a  'Concurrence',  an  inferior  and  cheaper  vehicle.  Careful 
inquiry  as  to  time-table  and  fares  should  be  made,  and  front  seats  secured 
beforehand.  The  officials  sometimes  charge  strangers  more  than  the  legit- 
imate fare.  If  the  passenger  prefers  to  walk  or  ride  part  of  the  way, 
he  may  arrange  with  the  driver  as  to  the  carriage  of  his  luggage. 

Off  the  highroads  and  for  mountain  excursions  Riding  is  often  pre- 
ferable to  walking.  A  mule  (mulet)  or  a  donkey  (boitrricot)  is  more  com- 
monly used  than  a  horse.  The  Arabian  saddle  with  its  high  cantle  and 
pommel  gives  a  certain  sense  of  security  to  the  novice,  but  the  exper- 
ienced riuer  will  prefer  an  English  saddle,  which  may  be  obtained  in  the 
larger  towns.  The  animals  are  badly  kept  by  the  natives,  but  are  quiet 
and  sure-footed.  Instead  of  a  saddle,  mules  and  donkeys  often  have  a 
kind  of  sack  thrown  over  their  backs,  into  which  the  rider  thrusts  his 
feet.  The  attendant  has  to  provide  food  for  himself  and  his  beast,  and 
he  is  always  expected  to  walk  except  on  very  long  excursions. 

For  excursions  of  any  length  in  the  Sahara  the  traveller  must  have 
recourse  to  the  camel,  the  'ship  of  the  desert'.  The  superior  trotting 
camel  (mehara)  must  be  distinguished  from  the  ordinary  beast  of  burden, 
which  only  walks  about  2'/2  M.  per  hour,  but  has  wonderful  powers  of 
endurance,  even  in  the  most  trying  weather.    In  the  case  of  the  trotting 


174  ALGERIA. 

camel  the  rider  sits  on  a  narrow  saddle  and  crosses  his  feet  (with  shoes 
removed)  on  the  animal's  neck.  On  the  broad  pack-saddle  of  the  camel  of 
burden  is  a  seat  for  men,  and  right  and  left  are  others  for  ladies,  for 
whom  a  kind  of  litter  (attatouch)  also  is  provided.  While  the  rider 
mounts  the  kneeling  animal  the  attendant  usually  puts  his  foot  on  one 
of  its  fore-legs  to  prevent  it  from  rising  too  suddenly,  as  it  is  very  apt 
to  do.  As  the  camel  rises  on  its  hind-legs  first,  tilting  the  rider  for- 
wards, it  is  advisable  to  lean  well  back  at  first,  and  then  forwards,  and 
to  keep  firm  hold  of  the  saddle.  Practice  alone  will  enable  the  rider  to 
get  used  to  the  peculiar  gait  of  the  animal.  The  rider's  head  should  be 
well  protected  by  a  pith-helmet  or  other  efficient  covering.  Luggage  is 
best  carried  in  (rwo  saddle-bags  (gibera)  of  leather  or  carpet,  for  which 
the  natives  ask  20  fr.,  or  even  in  ordinary  sacks.  As  to  provisions, 
see  p.  97.  Intending  travellers  are  expected  to  present  themselves  at 
the  Bureau  Arabe  before  starting,  where  they  may  apply  for  a  Saharien 
or  Cavalier  du  Maghzen  (p.  390)  to  accompany  them.  In  some  cases  an 
escort  is  considered  indispensable. 

The  Money  for  a  tour  in  Algeria  had  better  be  taken  in  the  form 
of  notes  of  the  Banque  de  France  or  the  Banque  de  l'Algcrie  (for  Algeria 
and  Tunisia  only)  or  in  gold  of  the  Latin  monetary  union.  Bank  of 
England  notes  and  sovereigns  are  always  readily  exchanged  in  the  larger 
towns  and  tourist-resorts.  Circular  notes  are  less  convenient,  but  have 
the  merit  of  being  safer.  Letters  of  credit  addressed  to  the  Compagnie 
Algenenne  or  the  Credit  Lyonnais  also  form  a  safe  vehicle  for  large 
sums,  but  the  branch -offices  sometimes  require  a  week's  notice  before 
paying.  The  banks  and  public  offices  are  mostly  open  at  9-11  and  2-5  only, 
but  the  cashier's  office  usually  closes  at  3. 

Comfortable  first-class  Hotels,  owned  chiefly  by  French,  Swiss,  or 
German  proprietors,  are  to  be  found  at  Algiers,  Oran,  Hamniam  Rhira, 
and  Biskra.  Those  of  the  second  class  usually  make  a  fixed  charge  (5  to 
12  fr.  per  day)  for  room,  dejeuner,  and  dinner.  Charges  vary  greatly, 
however,  according  to  the  season  and  to  the  traveller's  nationality.  The 
beds  are  very  good  as  a  rule,  and  the  rooms  fairly  clean,  but  the  sani- 
tation is  often  defective  and  the  servants  inefficient.  Under  these  circum- 
stances the  scale  of  gratuities  is  lower  than  in  Europe. 

As  for  food,  the  staple  of  almost  every  repast  in  Algeria  is  mutton. 
The  wheaten  bread  is  generally  excellent.  Among  the  best  wines  are 
the  white  of  Medea  and  Mascara,  the  red  and  the  white  of  Tleincen  and 
Staoueli,  and  the  red  of  Miliana,  Margueritte,  and  Hammam  Rhira.  At 
the  Capes,  which  are  often  beset  by  shoe-blacks  {cireurs;  10  c),  we  may 
try  a  cup  of  'Nossi-Bey'  (50  c.),  considered  a  specially  good  cotfee.  A  cup 
of  coffee  or  tea  at  the  Moorish  cafes  costs  one  sou,  but  strangers  are  often 
charged  two  (no  gratuities).  A  few  good  Restaurants  are  to  be  found 
in  the  larger  towns,  and  food  also  is  provided  by  the  better  brasseries. 
Tobacco  and  cigars  are  much  cheaper  than  in  France,  there  being  no  govern- 
ment monopoly  here,  but  there  is  a  duty  of  36  fr.  per  kilogramme  (2'/5  lbs.) 
on  imported  cigars. 

The  Post  Office  arrangements  are  the  same  as  in  France.  A  favour- 
ite way  of  sending  small  parcels  is  by  sample-post  ('echantillons  3an8 
valeur';  12-15  days  from  Algiers  to  England),  up  to  350  grammes  (about 
12V4  oz.).  Inland  postage  for  letters  of  20  grammes  (not  quite  3/4  oz.)  or 
post-cards  10  c,  foreign  25  c.  (for  20  gr.)  or  10  c.  —  Senders  of  registered 
letters  and  telegrams  must  fill  up  a  form  giving  their  name  and  address. 
Postal  orders  and  parcel-post  are  not  recommended. 

Drawing  or  Photographing  in  fortified  places,  if  not  expressly  for- 
bidden, is  at  least  inadvisable,  nor  should  maps  or  plans  be  too  closely 
studied  in  public  places.  With  regard  to  intercourse  with  the  natives, 
see  p.  xxv.   The  police  arrangements  are  generally  as  good  as  in  Europe. 

The  Mosques  (p.  xxv)  in  Algeria  are  all  state  property  and  may 
therefore  be  visited  at  any  time  except  during  prayer.     A  fee  (20-50  c.) 


ORAN.  *8-  Route.     175 

need  only  be  given  to  the  custodian  for  providing  slippers  or  rendering 
special  services.  Smoking  is  forbidden  in  the  forecourts,  and  of  course 
in  the  buildings  themselves. 

The  Moorish  Baths  (ladies'  hours  12-6)  may  be  glanced  at  in  passing. 

Books  (eonip.  also  pp.  vi,  325).  Sir  R.  L.  Plat/fair's  Bibliography 
of  Algeria  (London,  2  vols.)  goes  no  further  than  1895.  Among  works 
on  the  history  of  Algeria  and  its  development  may  be  mentioned: 
M.  WailL  L'Algerie  (5th  ed.,  Paris,  1908;  5fr.);  Hanoteau  et  Letourneux, 
La  Kabylie  (2nd  ed..  3  vols.,  Paris,  1893;  25  fr.);  R.  L.  Play  fair,  The 
Scourge  of  Christendom  (London,  1884);  Graham,  Roman  Africa,  History 
of  the  Roman  Occupation  (London,  1902);  Randall  Maciver  and  Wilkin, 
Libyan  Notes  (London,  1901).  For  the  history  of  art:  Stephane  Gsell, 
Lea  Monuments  antiques  de  l'Algerie  (2  vols.,  Paris,  1901;  20  fr.); 
W.  et  G.  Marcais,  Les  Monuments  Arabes  de  Tleincen  (Paris,  1903;  out 
of  print).  Delightful  descriptions  of  the  country  and  its  inhabitants  are 
contained  in  R.  S.  Hichens's  The  Garden  of  Allah  (London,  1904);  Frances 
E.  Xesbitt's  Algeria  and  Tunis  (London,  1906;  20s.);  Irene  Osgood's  novel 
'Servitude';  Guy  de  Maupassant's  novel  Au  Soleil  (nouv.  ed.,  Paris, 
1891;  31/2  fr.);  E.  Fromentin's  Un  dte  dans  le  Sahara  (Paris,  1857)  and 
Une  Anniie  dans  le  Sahel  (Paris,  1859);  Col.  Fein's  Lettres  familieres  sur 
l'Algerie  (Chalous-sur-Marne,  1871;  3  fr.). 

The  French  Carte  de  l'Algerie  (of  the  'Service  Geographique  de 
l'Armee')  is  completed  for  the  N.  districts  only.  Each  sheet  on  the  scale 
of  1  :  50,000  costs  l'/2  fr. ;  sheets  on  the  scale  of  1  :  200,000  cost  90  c.  each. 
Sine e  1908  M.  Jourdan,  of  Algiers,  has  been  bringing  out  a  new  official 
map  for  the  north  (1 :  200,000)  and  the  south  (1 :  400,000)  at  1  fr.  per  sheet. 


28.  Oran. 

Arrival  by  Sea.  The  steamers  of  the  Compagnie  Generate  Tram- 
atlantique  (RR.  19,  18)  are  berthed  at  the  Quai  Bougainville  (PI.  C,  1), 
those  of  the  Transport  Maritimes  (R.  19)  at  the  Quai  de  la  Gare  (PI.  C, 
D,  2),  those  of  the  Navigation  Mixte  (RR.  19,  18)  at  the  Quai  Lamoune 
(PI.  B,  1).  Baggage  is  conveyed  to  the  custom-house  (Douane;  PI.  B,  2), 
and  thence  to  the  cabs  or  hotel-omnibuses.  The  porters  (portefaix),  mostly 
Dtttives,  are  notorious  for  their  extortionate  demands.  Charges  should  be 
agreed  upon  beforehand. 

Bail  way  Stations.  1.  Gare  Centrale  or  du  P.  L.  M.  et  de  I'Ouest 
Alge'rien  (PI.  E,  4;  p.  173),  Boul.  Marceau  (p.  181),  for  Perregaux  and  Algiers 
(R.  33),  Tlemcen  (R.  29),  and  Aln-Temouchent  (p.  185).  — 2.  Gare  d'Arzew 
(PI.  F,  5),  1  M.  from  the  hotels,  for  the  line  via  Damesme  (Arzew)  and 
Perregaux  to  Beni-Ounif  de  Figuig  (R.  32).  — The  Gare  de  la  Marine 
(PI.  C,  2)  is  the  terminus  of  the  harbour  goods-line. — Town  Office  of 
the  P.  L.  M.  and  Ouest  Algerien  railways,  Boul.  du  Lycee  5. 

Hotels.  *H0t.  Continental  (PI.  a;  D,  3),  Boul.  Seguin  1,  corner 
of  Place  des  Amies,  fine  open  site,  with  restaurant,  R.  4-6,  B.  1V2,  dej.  4, 
D.  5,  pens.  11-15,  omn.  1  fr.  —  Hot.  "Victor  (PI.  b;  D,  3),  Rue  d'Arzew  5 
and  Rue  de  la  Bastille  8,  R.  2>/2-5,  B.  '/2-8/.i>  D-  3,  pens.  71/2-8,/2,  omn. 
'Vt  fr.,  plain  but  good;  Hot.  dd  Theatre,  Rue  Bosquet,  next'the  theatre 
(PI.  (',  3),  new;  HOT.  d'Europe  (PI.  d;  D,  3),  Boul.  Charlemagne  16,  H6t 
dh  Progres  (PI.  f;  I),  3),  Rue  de  Belleville  14,  both  with  restaurants, 
very  unpretending.  — Hotels  G-arnis.  *Koyal  (PI.  g;  D,  3),  Boul.  du 
Lycee  8,  with  restaurant,  R.  8-8,  omn.  1  f r. ;  Central  (PI.  h;  D,  3),  Rue 
de  Belleville  13,  R.  2>/2-4  fr. 

Cafe's.  Continental  (at  the  hotel),  Riche,  and  de  la  Mosqute,  all  in 
Boul.  Seguin  (Xos.  1.  22,  19);  da  TM&tre,  Place  d'Armes  11;  Nouvel 
Aquarium  (p.  182),    Promenade    de  Letang;    Glacier,    Place  Kleber  3. 

Restaurants  at  the  hotels;  also  Nouvel  Aquarium  (p.  182);  Brasserie 


Situation.  ORAN.  28.  Route.     177 

vard,  No.20bis  (Oriental  goods). —  Photographic  Requisites.  Luck,  Rue 
de  Belleville  9;  Schnell,  Boul.  Seguin  14.  —  Picture  Post  Cards.  Caspari, 
Rue  d'Arzew  24;  Craveya,  same  street,  No.  20. 

Tourist  Offices.  Lubin,  Galerie  Perez,  Boul.  Seguin ;  Syndicat  d'lni- 
.  Hot.  de  Ville  (p.  180);  R.  Heckmann,  Place  de  la  Republique  7. 

Consuls.  British  Vice-Consul,  Thos.  A.  Barber,  Quai  Ste.  Marie  4 
(PI.  B,  2).  — U.  S.  Consular  Agent,  A.  11.  El  ford,  Rue  Charles  Quint  14. 

French  Prot.  Church  {Temple;  PI.  13,  C3),  Rue  de  la  Revolution; 
s.ivi'-p  f>n  Sun.  at  9.30  a.m. 

Theatres.  Grand  TM&tre  Municipal  (PI.  C,  3),  Place  d'Armes; 
TM&tre- Casino  (PI.  14;  C,  2),  Rue  Philippe;  Cirque-Theatre  des  Nou- 
vea life's  (PI.  C,  4),  Boul.  National ;  Alhambra  (PI.  D,  E,  3),  Rue  d' Arzew  38bis. 

Music  (in  winter,  4-5  p.  m.).  Sun.,  Promenade  de  Letang  (p.  181),  near 
the  Restaur.  Aquarium;  Tues.,  at  the  Cercle  Militaire  (p.  180);  Thurs. 
(fortnightly  in  both),  Place  de  la  Republique  and  Square  du  Palais  de 
Justice;  Sat.,  at  the  Hopital  Militaire  (PI.  C,  2).  —  Concerts  in  the  Salle 
U/t*irale  (PI.  D,  3),  Rue  de  Paixhans. 

Two  Days.  1st.  In  the  forenoon,  Place  d'Armes  (p.  180),  Grande 
Mosquie  (p.  180),  Promenade  de  IAtang  (p.  181),  Old  Town  (p.  179);  after- 
noon, Belvddere  (p.  182)  or  Plateau  du  Marabout  (p.  183).  —  2nd.  Forenoon, 
Mers  el-Kibir  (p.  183);  afternoon,  Promenade  des  Falaises  (p.  184).  —  As 
to  visiting  the  mosques,  see  p.  174. 

Oran,  Arabic  Wardn,  the  capital  of  the  province  of  that  name, 
with  110,000  inhab.  (29,700  being  foreigners,  mostly  Spaniards, 
16,000  Mohammedans,  and  13,200  Jews),  is  a  strongly  fortified 
place,  the  headquarters  of  an  army  corps  and  a  torpedo-boat  station, 
and  has  been  an  episcopal  see  since  1867.  Next  to  Algiers  it  is  now 
the  greatest  seaport  and  commercial  place  in  Barbary.  The  town 
lies  in  35°  44'  N.  lat.  and  0°  5S' W.  long.,  on  a  bay  of  the  spacious 
Gulf  of  Oran  (p.  126),  between  Jebel  Santon  (1043  ft.;  p.  183) 
on  the  W.  and  the  Pointe  Canastel  (784  ft.;  p.  184)  on  the  E.  side. 
At  the  W.  end  the  quiet  streets  of  the  old  town,  overlooked  by  the 
bare  limestone  rocks  of  the  Pic  d'Aidour  or  Montagne  de  Santa 
Cruz  (1221  ft.),  ascend  the  ravine  of  the  small  brook  Paz  el-Ain 
or  Oued  Pehhi  to  the  hill  of  the  Kasb  a,  the  ancient  Moorish  castle. 
The  modern  industrial  quarters  lie  to  the  E.  of  the  hill  of  Clidieau- 
Neuf  and  beyond  the  ravine  of  the  A'in  Rouina,  extending  far  over 
the  plateau  of  Karguentah  (about  250-390  ft.),  a  table-land  which 
descends  abruptly  to  the  sea  and  slopes  gradually  to  the  S.  E.  down 
to  the  plain  of  the  Daya  Morselli  and  the  Plaine  du  Figuier 
(p.  185).  The  town  is  defended  by  several  old  forts  of  the  Spanish 
period  and  by  a  number  of  modern  coast-batteries,  and,  like  most 
of  the  Algerian  towns,  is  enclosed  by  a  wall  for  protection  against 
the  natives.  The  chief  suburbs  outside  the  gates  are  Gambetta, 
St.  Eugene,  Lamur,  and  Eckmiihl-Noiseux. 

Oran  is  essentially  a  modern  town,  which  is  being  extended 
and  embellished  with  feverish  zeal,  but  notwithstanding  its  French 
veneer  it  derives  a  certain  individuality  from  the  preponderating 
Spanish  element  in  its  population.  The  Mohammedan  element  is 
diminishing  here  even  more  rapidly  than  in  Algiers.  Owing  to  the 
scantiness  of  the  rainfall  the  euvirons  and  their  vegetation  are 


178     Route  28.  ORAN.  Harbour. 

quite  African  in  character,  and  the  neighbouring  shotts,  or  salt- 
lakes,  resemble  those  of  the  Hauts-Plateaux  (p.  169). 

The  Gulf  of  Oran,  where  the  Portus  Divinus  (Mers  el-Kebir,  p.  183) 
was  the  only  Roman  settlement,  was  unimportant  in  ancient  times.  Native 
tradition  ascribes  the  foundation  of  the  town  of  Oran  to  Moorish  merchants 
of  Andalusia  in  902,  but  it  was  not  till  the  late  middle  ages  that  the  town 
began  to  thrive.  After  the  rise  of  the  kingdom  of  Tlemcen  (p.  188)  Oran 
superseded  the  neighbouring  ports  of  Rachgoun  (p.  185),  Honei'n  (p.  125), 
and  Arzew  (p.  199)  as  the  chief  staple  of  the  W.  Algerian  coast,  its  trade 
being  chiefly  carried  on  by  Italians. 

Jealous  of  the  successes  of  Portugal  in  Morocco  (p.  96),  and  eager, 
after  the  capture  of  Granada  (p.  75),  to  carry  their  crusade  against  Islam 
into  African  territory,  the  Spaniards  sent  an  expedition  against  Melilla 
(p.  124)  in  1496,  while  the  all-powerful  Card.  Ximenez,  archbishop  of 
Toledo,  proceeded  to  attack  the  Ziyanides  (p.  188).  In  1505  Mers  el-K6bir, 
which  had  been  twice  occupied  by  the  Portuguese  in  the  15th  cent.,  was 
attacked  and  after  a  brave  defence  captured,  and  in-  1509,  on  a  second 
expedition,  Oran  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  cardinal.  Thenceforth  Oran 
formed  the  base  of  the  further  campaigns  of  the  Spaniards,  who  in  their 
victorious  career  soon  captured  all  the  important  towns  on  the  seaboard 
as  far  as  Tripoli,  and  penetrated  inland  to  Tlemcen.  The  Spanish  governors 
succeeded  in  defending  Oran  against  all  the  attacks  of  the  barbarescos 
down  to  1708,  when  the  Bey  Bu-Chlar'em  bombarded  the  Spanish  forts 
from  Jebel  Murjajo,  captured  them,  and  slew  the  entire  garrison.  A 
Spanish  army  under  the  Count  of  Montemar  gained  a  brilliant  victory  over 
the  Moors  at  Ain  et-Turk  (p.  184)  and  recaptured  the  town  in  1732,  but 
the  Spaniards  soon  found  themselves  again  overmatched  by  their  enemies. 
In  1790  the  town  was  almost  entirely  destroyed  by  an  earthquake,  and 
in  1792  the  Spaniards  at  length  withdrew  their  garrison. 

Under  the  bey  3Iohammed  el-Kebir  the  town  was  erected  into  the 
capital  of  the  province  of  W.  Algeria;  but  in  consequence  of  the  earth- 
quake, the  interminable  wars,  and  its  entire  separation  from  the  inland 
regions  during  the  centuries  of  the  Spanish  occupation,  Oran  had  declined 
so  lamentably  that  when  it  was  occupied  by  French  troops  in  1831  it 
scarcely  numbered  4000  inhabitants.  Its  rapid  recovery  since  that  period 
has  been  due  to  its  favourable  situation ,  its  proximity  to  the  Spanish 
coast  and  to  the  rich  inland  district  of  Tlemcen,  and  particularly  to  the 
extension  of  the  Algerian  railway  system  as  far  as  the  Sahara  and  to 
the  promotion  of  trade  with  Morocco  by  the  opening  of  free  marts  at 
Lalla-Marnia  (p.  197),  Ai'n-Sefra  (p.  202),  and  Beni-Ounif  de  Figuig  (p.  203). 

a.  The  Harbour  and  the  Old  Town. 

The  Harbour  (PI.  B-D,  1,  2),  72  acres  in  area,  is  bounded  on 
the  E.  side  by  the  QuaiSte.  Thercse,  330  yds.  long,  and  is  sheltered 
on  the  N.  by  the  Ghrande  Jetee  or  Jetee  du  Large,  a  pier  1200  yds. 
in  length,  with  a  lighthouse  at  the  end  (Phare;  PI.  D,  1).  The 
shallow  Vieux  Port  (PI.  B,  C,  1,  2),  now  the  S.W.  bay  of  the  new 
harbour  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Quai  Bougainville,  was  the 
harbour  of  the  Moorish  and  Spanish  periods.  The  rapid  increase  of 
the  shipping  trade  (now  exceeding  4  million  tons  annually)  is  being 
met  by  the  construction  of  an  outer  harbour  (PI.  D-G,  1,2).  The 
chief  imports  are  sugar,  coffee,  rice,  English  coal,  timber,  petro- 
leum, candles,  and  paper;  the  chief  exports  wine,  grain,  flour,  fruit, 
early  vegetables,  alfa,  'crin  vegetal'  (dwarf -palm  fibre),  tobacco, 
cattle,  hides,  wool,  marble,  and  onyx. 


Museum.  ORAN.  20.  Route.     179 

From  the  Douane  (PI.  B,  2)  the  Rue  d'Orleans  (PI.  B,  C,  2 ;  tram- 
way No.  1,  see  p.  176)  ascends  in  a  curve,  skirting  the  Quartier  de 
la  Marine  and  the  Quartier  de  la  CaUre,  the  Spanish  quarters, 
to  the  upper  part  of  the  town.  Halfway  up,  to  the  right,  on  the 
parapet  of  the  small  Place  d'Orleans  (PI.  B,  2)  are  seen  the  Spanish 
Armorial  Bearings  (1789). 

Beyond  the  Palais  Consulaire  (PI.  8,  C  2;  Chamber  of  Com- 
merce and  Commercial  Court)  the  street  reaches  the  two  chief 
squares  of  the  old  French  part  of  the  town,  the  Place  de  la  Repu- 
blique,  with  the  Fontaine  Aucour  (PI.  C,  2;  concerts,  see  p.  177), 
and  the  Place  Kleber  (PI.  C,  3).  Adjoining  the  latter  is  the  Boule- 
vard Malakoff  (PI.  C,  3),  constructed  over  the  vaulted  channel  of 
the  Raz  el-Ain  (p.  177),  with  a  fine  avenue  of  planes. 

On  the  S.W.  side  of  the  Place  Kleber,  between  Boul.  Malakoff 
and  Boul.  Oudinot,  rises  the  Prefecture  (PI.  C,  3),  the  seat  of  the 
provincial  government. 

The  Boul.  Oudinot  leads  to  the  Magasin  du  Campement 
(PI.  C,  3;  military  stores;  adm.  by  leave  of  the  military  author- 
ities), in  the  garden  of  which  we  perceive  the  minaret  of  a  Mosque 
(about  1800)  dedicated  to  Sidi  el-Hawdri,  the  chief  saint  of  Oran. 

The  Rup  Larrey  leads  past  the  E.  side  of  the  military  stores  to 
a  terrace  above  the  harbour-quarter,  on  which  rises  the  — 

Church  of  St.  Louis  (PI.  12;  C,  2),  an  unimportant  edifice 
of  1839,  whose  choir-niche  is  a  relic  of  the  Spanish  church  of  the 
time  of  the  Count  of  Montemar  (p.  178).  The  Wall  of  the  Rue  de 
Berlin  (PI.  C,  B,  2),  which  leads  hence  to  the  Porte  du  Santon 
(p.  182),  is  of  Spanish  origin. 

We  return  to  the  Boul.  Oudinot  and  glance  at  the  Quartier  de 
la  Kasba,  the  oldest  quarter  of  Oran,  lying  on  the  hill-side  below 
the  Kasba  (PI.  B,  C,  3;  adm.  on  application  at  the  guard-house), 
the  old  citadel.  The  old  Moorish  castle  on  this  site  was  succeeded 
in  the  16th  cent,  by  the  Spanish  Castillo  Viejo,  the  nucleus  of  the 
Spanish  fortifications,  and  now  occupied  by  French  barracks.  Above 
the  Porte  d' Espagne,  a  side-entrance  at  the  end  of  the  narrow 
Rue  du  Vieux-Chateau  (PI.  C,  3),  are  still  seen  the  arms  of  Spain. 

The  Rue  de  Madrid  (PI.  C,  3,  2),  a  side-street  of  the  Rue  Larrey 
(see  above),  and  the  steps  in  the  Rue  d'Orleans  near  the  S.W.  angle 
of  the  Place  de  la  Republique  lead  to  the  small  public  — 

Musee  Demaeght  (PI.  7;  C,  2),  Rue  Montebello  9,  founded 
in  1886  and  named  after  its  founder.  Admittance,  except  on  great 
festivals,  daily  1-5,  free.  Catalogues  of  the  antiquities  and  the 
ancient  coins,  l3/4  fr.  each.   Curator,  Prof.  A.  Moulieras. 

In  the  vestibule  are  Roman  mosaics  from  a  dwelling-house  at  Portus 
Magnus  (Saint-Leu,  p.  199),  freely  restored  in  parts;  Roman  stelae,  mile- 
stones, inscriptions,  etc.  from  the  province  of  Oran. 

First  Floor.     On  the  left,   in  Room  C,   natural  history  collections, 


180     Route  28.  OR  AN.  Grande  Mosquie. 

including  specimens  of  marble  and  onyx  from  the  province  of  Oran. — 
On  the  right,  in  Room  D,  prehistoric  relics  from  Barbary  and  ethno- 
graphical collections. 

Second  Floor.  On  the  left,  in  Room  E,  casts  from  the  antique; 
Moorish  ornaments  from  Toledo  and  Granada;  and  a  graphic  collection. 
—  On  the  right,   in  Room  F,  modern  paintings. 

Third  Floor.  On  the  left,  in  Room  G,  natural  history  collections. — 
On  the  right,  in  Room  H,  a  line  collection  of  coins,  Numidian,  Mauretanian, 
Roman,  Byzantine,  Moorish,  old  Spanish,  etc. ;  in  the  wall-cases  small 
relics  from  Portus  Magnus. 

b.  The  New  Town. 

The  loftily  situated  New  Town  is  reached  from  the  Place  Kleber 
(PL  C,  3;  p.  179)  by  several  steep  lanes  in  steps  (Rue  de  Genes, 
etc.),  but  more  easily  by  the  Boulevard  Malakoff  (p.  179)  and  the 
Rue  des  Jardins  (PI.  0,3;  tramway  No.  1,  see  p.  176),  or  by  the 
Rue  de  Turin  (PI.  C,  3,  2)  and  Rue  Philippe  (tramway  No.  2). 

The  Rue  de  Turin  leads  in  a  bend  past  the  MarchC  Pastrana 
(PI.  5;  C,  3)  and  the  Promenade  de  Letang  (p.  181). 

The  Rue  Philippe,  which  ascends  direct,  passes  on  the  right 
the  elegant  Demeure  de  Hassan  (PI.  2 ;  C,  3),  which,  apart  from 
the  fortifications,  is  the  sole  relic  of  old  Oran.  According  to  the 
inscription,  it  was  built  in  1700  and  restored  in  1900,  and  is  named 
after  one  of  its  later  owners,  a  tobacco-merchant  who  became  Bey 
of  Oran  in  1812. 

The  adjacent  Grande  Mosqu^e,  or  Mosque'e  du  Pacha  (PI.  4, 
C  3;  Arabic  Jdma  el-Pasha),  erected  by  order  of  the  Dey  of  Al- 
giers after  the  withdrawal  of  the  Spaniards  in  1792,  is  now  the 
only  mosque  in  the  town  used  for  divine  service. 

The  front  building-,  erected  in  the  form  of  a  kubba,  or  saint's  shrine, 
at  the  sharp  bend  of  the  Rue  Philippe,  dates  only  from  the  French  per- 
iod (1864).  The  pretty  Sahn,  or  court  of  the  mosque,  enclosed  by  a 
pinnacled  wall,  is  planted  with  palms  and  bananas. 

In  the  mosque  itself,  whose  vaulting  rests  alternately  on  short  pillars 
and  clustered  columns,  is  the  Sedda  or  stage,  under  the  great  central 
dome,  where  at  the  Friday  service  the  Mosammi,  or  leader  of  prayer, 
repeats  the  words  of  the  priest  (Imam)  for  the  benefit  of  worshippers 
at  a  distance.  On  the  right,  by  the  plain  mihrab  or  prayer-niche,  is  the 
mimbar,  the  pulpit  for  the  Friday  sermon. 

At  the  back  of  the  mosque,  in  the  Rue  de  la  Mosquee,  rises  the 
octagonal  Minaret  (Sauma),  the  tower  from  which  the  muezzin 
summons  the  faithful  to  prayer  five  times  daily. 

The  pretty  Place  d'Arrnes  (PI.  C,  D,  3 ;  233  ft.),  where  the 
Rue  des  Jardins  and  the  Rue  Philippe  end,  is  the  business  centre 
of  the  town  and  the  chief  tramway  station  (p.  176).  A  Monument 
here  recalls  the  battle  near  the  Kubba  Sidi-Brahim  (p.  198). 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  square  rises  the  H6tel  de  Ville,  or  Mairie 
(PL  C,  3),  a  building  in  the  French  Renaissance  style,  approached 
by  a  high  flight  of  steps.  On  the  W.  side  is  the  Gh'and  Theatre 
Municipal  (p.  177),  opened  in  1908.    The  grounds  of  the  Cercle 


Promenade  de  Litang  ORAN.  2*-  Route.      181 

Militaire  (PL  C,  D,  3;  concerts,  see  p.  177),  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
square,  extend  to  the  S.  bastions  of  the  Chateau-Neuf  (p.  182). 

On  the  margin  of  the  plateau,  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Place  d'Armes 
and  W.  of  the  Rue  de  la  Revolution,  lies  the  poor  Jewish  Quarter, 
with  its  dirty  streets,  of  which  the  chief  is  the  Rue  d'Austerlitz 
(PI.  C,  3,  4).  Here  an  interesting  fruit  and  vegetable  market  takes 
place  daily  (Sat.  excepted).  The  best  time  for  a  glance  at  the 
Jewish  quarter  is  a  Saturday  morning,  between  8.30  and  9,  when 
the  women  in  all  their  finery  go  to  the  synagogues  (in  the  Rue  de 
Ratisbonne,  etc.). 

At  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  Place  d'Armes  begins  the  Boulevard 
Seguin  (PI.  D,  3,4),  now  the  main  street,  with  the  chief  banks, 
shops,  and  cafes,  a  favourite  evening  resort.  —  In  a  side-street,  the 
Boul.  du  Deuxieme-Zouaves,  rises  the  new  Cathedral  (PL  D,  3,  4), 
begun  in  1905  and  now  nearly  completed.  To  the  S.  of  it  is  the 
Palais  de  Justice  (PL  D,  4)  in  the  pleasant  square  named  after 
it  (music,  see  p.  177).  —  From  the  S.  end  of  the  Boul.  Seguin  the 
Rue  de  Mostaganem  and  Boul.  Marceau  (PL  D-F,  4,  5)  lead  to  the 
new  Gare  Centrale  (PL  E,  4;  p.  175),  in  the  modern  Moorish 
style  (1907-9). 

The  S.  quarter  of  the  town,  between  the  Barracks  (PL  C,  D, 
4,  5),  built  in  the  charming  nco-Moorish  style,  and  the  town-walls, 
is  the  so-called  Village-N"6gre  (PL  C,  D,  5),  a  growth  of  the 
French  period.  It  consists  chiefly  of  small  one-storied  houses,  oc- 
cupied by  the  natives,  the  working  classes,  and  the  poorer  Mo- 
hammedans, with  the  Marche  Arabe  as  its  nucleus.  A  visit  may 
be  paid  to  it  in  the  morning,  or  better  on  a  Friday  or  Sunday  after- 
noon. In  an  open  site  on  the  E.  side  of  this  quarter,  near  the  Rue 
Dutertrc  (tramway  No.  6,  see  p.  176),  is  the  picturesque  Marabout 
Sidi  el-Bachir  (PL  D,  5;  p.  172). 

Near  this  is  the  Porte  du  Cimetiere,  leading  to  the  Jewish 
Burial  Ground  (PL  D,  5),  to  the  Christian  Cimetiere  Tamazhouet 
(PL  E,  F,  5),  and  to  the  suburb  of  Lamur  occupied  by  natives. 

The  E.  part  of  the  new  town  is  intersected  by  the  Rue  d'Arzew, 
passing  the  new  Gallerie  Auddoud  with  its  row  of  shops,  a  little 
beyond  which  the  Boul.  de  Tivoli  diverges  to  the  N.  (left).  In  an 
open  site  at  the  end  of  this  street  rises  the  Vieille  Mosquie  (PL 
F,  3),  built  at  the  end  of  the  18th  cent,  (now  being  restored),  with 
a  minaret  resembling  that  of  the  El-Hawari  mosque  (p.  179). 

The  chief  boast  of  Oran  is  the  *Promenade  de  Letang 
(PL  C,  D,  2),  the  delightful  grounds,  shaded  with  palms,  which 
flank  the  N.  and  W.  sides  of  the  Chateau-Neuf.  They  are  reached 
from  the  Place  d'Armes,  either  to  the  N.W.  by  the  Rue  Philippe, 
or  to  the  N.E.  by  a  road  beginning  between  the  Ccrcle  Militaire 
and  the  Hotel  Continental.   (To  the  E.  of  this  road  lies  the  Lycee, 


182     Route  28.  ORAN.  Belvidlre. 

PI.  D,  3,  a  road  to  which  crosses  the  ravine  of  the  Am  Rouina.) 
The  two  N.E.  platforms,  above  the  Fort  Ste.  Therese  (PI.  D,  2), 
command  a  glorious  view,  especially  towards  evening,  of  the  bold 
coast  as  far  as  the  Pointe  Canastel  (p.  184)  and  of  the  double-peaked 
Jebel  Kahar  (p.  184).  The  terraoe  on  the  N.W.  side,  near  the  Nouvel 
Aquarium  (music,  see  p.  177),  affords  a  good  view  of  the  harbour, 
of  Jebel  Murjajo  with  the  Plateau  du  Marabout  and  Fort  Santa  Cruz 
(see  below),  and  of  the  bay  of  Mers  el-Kebir  (p.  183). 

The  Chateau-Neuf  (PL  C,  D,  2;  now  military  headquarters  and 
barracks)  was  the  Bordj  el-Ahmar  (red  castle)  of  Moorish  times, 
the  chief  fort  of  the  town  next  to  the  Kasba,  the  Rosalcazar  of  the 
Spanish  period,  seat  of  the  governor,  and  in  1792  1831  the  resid- 
ence of  the  Bey  of  the  province  of  Oran.  Admittance  on  application 
at  the  guard-house.  The  inconsiderable  buildings  date  partly  from 
the  Spanish  occupation;  on  the  outer  walls  and  the  entrance  gate- 
way are  an  Arabic  and  several  Spanish  inscriptions. 


c.  Environs. 

(1).  The  old  Fort  Santa  Cruz  (PI.  A,  2;  1221  ft.;  now  an 
observatory),  on  the  Pic  d'Aidour,  the  E.  spur  of  the  Jebel  Mur- 
jajo, is  reached  by  the  Rue  de  Berlin  (p.  179)  and  the  Porte  de 
Santa  Cruz  or  du  Santon  (l1^  hr.).  A  very  rough,  shadeless  path 
ascends  to  it,  beginning  on  a  stony  slope  to  the  right  above  the 
drilling-ground,  crossing  the  road  to  Fort  St.  Gregoire,  and  passing 
the  chapel  of  the  Vierge  de  Santa  Cruz  (PI.  A,  1;  1024  ft.;  view). 
It  may  be  reached  also  by  a  bridle-path  through  the  Ravin  des 
Planteurs  (PI.  A,  B,  2,  3),  the  gorge  at  the  beginning  of  the  Bois 
des  Planteurs.  The  fort  was  built  in  1700,  nearly  destroyed  by  the 
barbarescos  in  1708  and  1792,  and  restored  in  1856.  It  has  always 
been  connected  with  the  Chateau-Neuf  (see  above)  by  an  under- 
ground passage,  3  M.  long.  The  platform  commands  a  fine  view  of 
Oran  and  the  bay  of  Mers  el-Kebir  (custodian  30-50  c). 

The  Belvedere  is  a  more  interesting  point.  We  follow  the  road 
from  the  Porte  du  Santon  (see  above),  passing  the  drilling-ground, 
and  crossing  the  (8  min.)  Ravin  des  Planteurs.  Now  called  the 
Chemin  des  Planteurs  (PI.  B,  A,  3),  the  road  ascends  in  windings 
through  the  Bois  des  Planteurs,  a  pleasant  pine-grove  on  the  S. 
slope  of  Jebel  Murjajo,  where  jackals  are  sometimes  seen.  To  the 
right,  halfway  up,  a  path  (finger-post)  diverges  to  the  (10  min.) 
*Belv6dere  (PI.  A,  3;  rfmts.),  a  kind  of  temple  where  we  enjoy 
a  superb  view  of  Oran.  We  may  now  either  go  on  to  the  Plateau 
du  Marabout,  or  else  return  to  the  town  by  the  very  attractive  S. 
branch  of  the  Chemin  des  Planteurs  (PI.  A,  B,  4),  which  descends 
to  the  valley  of  Raz  el-Am  (p.  177)  and  leads  along  its  left  bank 
to  the  Porte  du  Ravin  (PI.  B,  C,  3). 


Men  d-Kibvr.  ORAN.  28.  Route.     183 

The  road  to  the  Plateau  du  Marabout  (about  1360  ft. ;  carr. 
in  about  l8/4  hr.,  6-8  fr.,  according  to  bargain)  ascends  through 
the  Bois  des  Planteurs  (p.  182).  From  the  end  of  the  road  a 
walk  of  10  min.  to  the  N.E.  along  the  crest  of  the  hill,  through 
meagre  brushwood,  and  offering  a  glimpse  of  the  bay  of  Mers  el 
Kebir  to  the  left,  brings  us  to  the  Marabout  Sidi  Abd  el-K&der 
el-Djildni,  the  chapel  of  a  Persian  saint  much  revered  throughout 
Barbary  as  the  founder  of  the  Kadria  brotherhood  (p.  361).  From 
this  point,  especially  towards  evening,  we  obtain  a  splendid  *View 
of  Oran,  of  Jebel  Kahar  and  Jebel  Orouze  (p.  184)  to  the  N.E.,  of 
the  salt-lake  and  the  bay  of  Arzew  (p.  199).  To  the  S.  we  see  part 
of  the  Sebkha  d'Oran  (p.  185),  backed  by  Jebel  Tessala  (p.  186). 

From  the  plateau  we  may  either  descend,  a  few  minutes'  walk 
beyond  the  Marabout,  to  the  left  to  Ste.  Clotilde  (see  below),  or  we 
may  go  straight  on,  across  the  saddle  between  the  Jebel  Murjajo 
and  the  Pic  d'Aidour,  to  the  (40  rain.)  Chapelle  de  la  Vierge  and 
the  Fort  Santa  Cruz  (p.  182). 

(2).  The  excursion  to  Mers  el-Kebir  (motor-omnibus  and  carr., 
see  p.  176;  tramway  to  Ai'n-et-Turk  projected)  is  specially  attrac- 
tive in  the  morning.  We  leave  Oran  near  the  Douane  (PI.  B,  2) 
and  above  Fort  Lamoune  (PI.  B,  1)  skirt  the  bold  E.  slope  of  the 
Pic  d'Aidour  (p.  182).  On  the  wooded  N.  slope  of  the  hill  we 
reach  (2  M.)  the  Bains  de  la  Reine,  which  have  been  in  use  since 
the  time  of  the  Ziyanides  (p.  188),  but  owe  their  name  to  a  visit 
paid  them  by  Juana  the  Insane  (p.  76).  The  plain  bath-hotel  lies 
on  the  road  above;  the  saline  spring  (130°Fahr.)  and  the  bath-house 
lie  behind  the  rocks  lower  down.  The  baths  are  frequented,  chiefly 
in  spring,  both  by  Europeans  and  natives. 

The  road  next  passes  below  (21/2  M.  from  Oran)  the  villa-suburb 
of  Ste.  Clotilde  (197  ft.;  Hot.  Ste.  Clotilde),  with  its  charming 
gardens  in  the  shade  of  the  hill  (path  to  the  Plateau  du  Marabout, 
see  above).  Just  beyond  Ste.  Clotilde,  in  the  ravine  of  Salto  del 
Cavallo,  is  the  spot  where  Takhfin  ben-Ali  (p.  188)  is  said  to  have 
been  slaiu  when  attempting  to  escape. 

33/4  M.  Roseville  (99  ft. ;  not  visible  from  the  road)  has  a  good 
bathing-beach.  4*/2  M.  St.  Andre  de  Mers  el-Kebir  (55  ft.;  Hot. 
National,  on  the  shore),  a  poor  village,  inhabited  almost  entirely  by 
Spaniards  and  Italians,  lies  at  the  S.  base  of  the  fortified  Jebel 
Santon  (1043  ft.),  the  N.  spur  of  Jebel  Murjajo. 

The  open  roads  of  Mers  el-Kebir  (Arabic  Mersa  el-Kebtrt 
the  great  harbour),  famed  in  Spanish  military  annals  as  Mazal- 
quivir,  now  the  naval  harbour  of  Oran,  are  admirably  sheltered 
from  the  "W.  and  N.  winds  by  Jebel  Santon  and  by  a  rocky  head- 
land (lighthouse).  Beyond  the  (5  M.)  little  fishing-village  (Hot.  de 
l'Escadre,  humble)  rises  a  huge  Fort,  the  outer  walls  of  which 
date  partly  from  the  Spanish  period. 

Baedeker's  Mediterranean.  12 


184     Route  88.  OK  AN.         Promenade  des  Falaises. 

To  Ain-et-Turk  and  Bob-Sfer  (a  day's  excursion  from  Oran;  omn. 
and  carr.,  see  p.  176;  provisions  should  be  taken),  an  interesting  drive, 
especially  in  spring,  affording  a  good  idea  of  the  progress  of  agriculture 
in  this  coast-region.  Beyond  the  headland  of  Mers  el-K6bir  the  road  is 
carried  round  the  Jebel  Santon,  high  above  the  sea,  by  means  of  cuttings, 
and  then  descends  to  the  fertile  Plaine  des  Andaloitses,  which  is  now 
inhabited  chiefly  by  S.  Spanish  peasants.  Its  name  recalls  the  landing 
here  of  the  Moors  expelled  from  Andalusia. 

9V2  M.  (from  Oran)  Ain-et-Turk  (65  ft.;  'Turkish  well'),  a  little  vil- 
lage, to  which  sea-bathers  resort  in  summer,  with  a  church  on  the  hill 
(177  ft.),  2«/a  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Cape  Falcon  (p.  125),  from  which  it  is 
separated  by  a  chain  of  sand-hills  rising  to  a  height  of  397  ft. 

The  road,  now  perfectly  straight,  ascends  to  the  S.W.,  through  vine- 
yards and  corn-fields,  to  (13  M.)  the  large  village  of  Bou-Sfer  (486  ft.), 
on  the  well-watered  N.  slope  of  Jebel  Murjajo,  with  its  thriving  farms 
where  vegetables  are  largely  grown.    To  Bou-Tlelis,  see  p.  185. 

From  Bou-Sfer  a  road,  with  fine  views,  leads  along  the  hill-side,  and 
hen  across  the  saddle  (768  ft.)  between  Jebel  Murjajo  and  Jebel  Santon, 
back  to  (22  M.)  St.  Andre  de  Mers  el-Ke'bir. 

(3).  A  splendid  walk,  especially  by  evening  light,  is  offered  by 
the  *Promenade  des  Falaises  (PI.  G.  Hv  1),  to  the  N.E.  of 
Oran.  Tramway  No.  3  (p.  176)  should  be  taken  to  the  station  outside 
the  Porte  d'Arzew  (PI.  F,  G,  3).  Here  we  go  to  the  left,  skirting 
the  town-walls,  then  to  the  N.E.  across  the  harbour  goods-line 
(p.  175),  through  the  Ravin  Blanc  at  a  distance  from  the  battery 
of  that  name,  and  up  the  fields  to  the  (20  min.)  highly  picturesque 
margin  of  the  plateau,  whence  we  survey  the  whole  coast  from  Mers 
el-Kebir  on  the  W.  to  the  Pointe  de  l'Aiguille  and  Jebel  Orouze 
to  the  N.E.  A  little  farther  on  we  reach  an  avenue  of  palms  which 
leads  in  a  curve  to  the  ('/4  hr.)  tramway-terminus  in  the  suburb  of 
Gambetta  (PI.  H,  2). 

Good  walkers,  starting  very  early,  may  extend  their  excursion  from 
the  Promenade  des  Falaises  to  the  Pointe  Canastel  (784  ft.),  near  which 
ends  the  road  coming  from  Gambetta  (4  M.),  and  thence  along  the  slope 
of  Jebel  Kahar  or  Montague  des  Lions  (2008  ft.),  in  4-4'/2  hrs.,  to  the 
Moorish  village  of  Kristel  (poor  cafes),  finely  situated  amid  rich  orange 
groves.  Or,  in  calm  weather,  we  may  take  a  sailing-boat  (see  p.  176)  from 
Oran  to  Kristel.  We  may  now  walk  or  ride  (donkey  2ljrZ  fr.)  up  the 
steep  hill  to  the  saddle  between  Jebel  Kahar  and  Jebel  Kristel  (1970  ft.): 
then  past  the  Ferme  Tasout  (1105  ft. ;  to  the  left  the  iron  and  lead 
mines  on  Jebel  Borosse,  a  spur  of  Jebel  Orouze;  p.  199)  to  the  S.E., 
partly  through  underwood,  and  down  to  the  (2V2  hrs.)  railway -station 
of  Saint-Cloud  (p.  199).  We  may  there  take  the  train  via  Damesme  to 
Arscw  (p.  199)  and  return  to  Oran  in  the  evening. 

From  Oran  to  Hammam  Bou-Hadjar,  45  M.,  steam-tramway  twice 
daily  (thrice  on  Sun.,  Mon.,  and  Tues.)  in  33/4-43/4  hrs.  (fares  5  fr.  40, 
3  fr.  95  c).  The  line  starts  from  the  N.  end  of  the  Boul.  Mascara  (PI.  C,  4) 
and  proceeds  to  the  S.E.  vil,  (4  M.)  La  Sinia  (p.  185)  to  (7V2  M.)  Valmy 
(p.  185),  some  distance  beyond  which  it  turns  to  the  S.W.  and  runs 
parallel  to  the  S.  shore  of  the  Sebkha  d'Oran  (p.  185).  12  M.  Arbal,  on 
the  N.  spurs  of  Jebel  Tessala  (p.  186);  25  M.  St.  Maur;  39  M.  Ain  el- 
Arba.  45  M.  Hammam  Bou-Hadjar  (574  ft.),  near  which  are  the  baths 
of  that  name  (Hot.  des  Bains,  plain  but  good).  The  hot  mineral  water 
(135-167°  Fahr.),  resembling  that  of  Ems,  rises  among  the  calc-sinter 
terraces  of  the  Fer  a  Cheval.  A  cool  spring  (64°  Fahr.),  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  iron,  is  used  for  drinking. 

Excursion  to  MissergMn,  see  p.  185. 


185 


29.  From  Oran  to  Tlemcen. 


102'/a  M.  Railway  Train,  with  one  1st  and  2nd  cl.  through-carriage,  in 
5i/4-53/4  hrs. ;  fares  18  fr.  55,  13  fr.  35  c,  10  fr.).  Dep.  from  chief  station 
(p.  175).  As  far  as  Ain-Fezza  (p.  186)  tinest  views  to  the  left.  Railway 
Restaurant  (D.  2  fr.)  at  Sidi  Bel-Abbes  only. 

Motor  Trip  (p.  173)  from  Oran  via  Misserghin,  A'in-Temouchent,  and 
Pont-de-1'Isser  to  (82V2  M.)  Tlemcen,  returning  via  Sidi  Bel-Abbes  (128  M.), 
interesting;  good  road. 

Between  Lamur  (p.  181)  and  Victor-Hugo,  suburbs  of  Oran, 
the  train  crosses  theDamesme  and  Perregaux  line  (R.  32).  Beyond 
the  small  salt-lake  Daya  Morselli,  on  the  left,  we  enter  the  Plaine 
<lu  Figuier,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Sebkha  d'Oran,  one  of  the  largest 
salt-lakes  in  the  Tell  Atlas,  26  M.  long  and  6  M.  broad. 

3  M.  La  Senia  (325  ft.),  a  Spanish  village,  with  productive 
vegetable-gardens  and  vineyards;  also  a  station  on  the  steam- 
tramway  from  Oran  to  Hammani  Bou-Hadjar  (p.  184). 

To  the  S.W.  from  La  Senia  diverges  the  Oran  and  A'in-Temouchent 
Line  (from  Oran  iV/.2  M.,  in  2»/4-3  hrs. ;  fares  8  fr.  60,  6  fr.  15,  4  fr.  60  c).  The 
train  skirts  the  S.  base  of  Jcbel  Murjajo  (p.  182),  near  the  Sebkha  d'Oran. 
12'  ...  M.  Misserghin  (360  ft.;  Hot.  des  Voyageurs,  Hot.  de  la  Pais,  both 
poor;  pop.  4-100),  situated  9l/2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Oran  by  the  Tlemcen 
road,  a  spot  much  visited  from  Oran,  possessing  a  large  pepiniere  or 
nursery,  and  several  monastic  foundations;  charming  walk  to  the  (2^2  M.) 
Ravin  de  la  Vierge  through  luxuriant  orange,  lemon,  mandarin,  and 
banana  groves.  —  22'/)  M.  Bou-Tlelis  (295  ft.),  whence  a  road  leads  via  the 
FturSt  M"Sila  and  El-Ancor  to  Bou-Sfer  (p.  181).  29>/2  M.  Lourmel  (300  ft.), 
near  the  W.  end  of  the  salt-lake.  35  M.  Er-Rahel  (450  ft.),  connected  by- 
road (6V4  M.)  with  Ham  mam  Bou-Hadjar  (p.  184).  We  cross  the  Rio 
Salado  (Arabic  Oued  Halah)  to  (40  M.)  Rio  Salado  (279  ft.),  famed  for 
its  wine.  —  47>/2  M.  Ain-Tero ouchent  (847  ft.;  Royal  Hotel;  Hot.  de 
Londres;  Hot.  de  la  Poste;  pop.  7500),  founded  in  1851  on  the  site  of 
the  Roman  Alb/dae,  chiefly  inhabited  by  Spaniards,  lies  amidst  vineyards 
and  orchards  in  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Oued  Senane,  into  which  the  . 
Oued  Temouchent  falls  here.    The  Thurs.  market  is  worth  seeing. 

The  Road  to  Tlemcen,  41  M.  (diligence  at  7  p.  m.  in  9  hrs.,  re- 
turning from  Tlemcen  at  9  p.  m.;  coupe  6  fr.)  leads  to  the  S.W.  from 
Ain-Temouchent  through  a  hill-region,  composed  mainly  of  eruptive  rock, 
and  well-watered,  to  the  thriving  village  of  Ain-Kial  (1477  ft.;  noted 
for  its  cattle),  crosses  the  pass  (1998  ft.;  fine  views)  of  Jebel  Sebaa- 
Chiotikh,  and  then  descends  past  the  onyx-quarries  of  the  hill-village  of 
Tekbalet  to  the  Isser  Valley.  20V2  M.  Pont-de-V Isser  (807  ft.;  Hot.  Po- 
maris,  humble),  a  village  amid  orange-gardens  and  olive-groves,  is  almost 
purely  Mohammedan.  The  road,  now  shadeless,  affording  fine  glimpses 
of  Tlemcen,  ascends  for  a  long  time  in  the  valley  of  the  Oued  el-G?uettara, 
and  reaches  (37'/.,  M.)  Safsaf(2Wd  ft.)  and  (41  M.)  Tlemcen  (2658  ft. ;  p.  187). 

Another  road  (23  M.;  omn.  at  9  a.  m.)  leads  to  the  W.  from  Al'n- 
Temouchent  to  the  little  seaport  of  Beni-Saf,  the  outlet  for  the  iron-ores 
of  the  Comp.  du  Mokta  el-Hadid  (p.  303).  From  Beni-Saf  a  road  (omn. 
at  6.15  a.  m.,  in  9  hrs.;  5  fr.)  leads  via  (5'/2  M.)  Rachgoun  (opposite  the 
island  mentioned  at  p.  125)  into  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Tafna,  the  an- 
cient Siga,  and  to(8:i/4M.)  Takembrit,  the  modern  name  for  the  rnins  of 
the  once  important  Roman  town  of  Siga.  Then,  beyond  the  confluence 
of  the  Isser  with  the  Tafna,  the  road  reaches  (27>/2  M.)  Montagnac 
(785  ft.)  and  (36  M.)  Henna ya  (1346  ft.),  whence  it  ascends  to  (42'/>  M.) 
Tlemcen  (2658  ft.). 

The  Tlemcen  Railway,  beyond  La  Senia,  crosses  the  Plaine 
du  Figuier,  and  beyond  (6  M.)  Vohny  (p.  184)   nears   the   salt- 

12* 


1 86     Rente  29.  SIDI  BEL- ABBES. 

works  on  the  Sebkha  d'Oran  (p.  185).  16  M.  Ste.  Barbe-du-TUlat 
(492  ft.)  is  noted  for  its  table  grapes. 

Our  train  here  diverges  to  the  S.  E.  from  the  line  to  Perregaux 
and  Algiers  (R.  33),  and  follows  the  vine-clad  valley  of  the  Oued 
TUlat.  Beyond  (20  M.)  St.  Lucien  we  pass  a  barrage  or  reser- 
voir. 26  M.  Les  Lauriers-Roses  lies  on  the  N.E.  spurs  of  Jebel 
Tessala  (3481  ft.),  the  mountain  which  separates  the  great  and 
fertile  tableland  of  Sidi  Bel-Abbes,  one  of  the  granaries  of  the 
province,  from  the  basin  of  the  Sebkha  d'Oran. 

The  train  crosses  the  Col  des  Ouled-Ali  and  the  Oued  Imbert 
(1578  ft.)  in  the  fertile  valley  of  that  name,  and  reaches  the  top 
of  the  table-land.  38y2  M.  Les  Trembles  (1375  ft.) ;  the  village 
lies  on  a  height  to  the  left,  between  the  Oued  Mekerra  (Sig,  p.  206) 
and  its  affluent  Oued  Sarno.  "We  then  ascend  the  Mekerra  valley 
to  (42!/2  M.)  Prudon  (1477  ft.),  where  many  of  the  wine-growers 
are  Germans,  old  soldiers  of  the  French  foreign  legion. 

48y2  M.  Sidi  Bel-Abb&s  (1542  ft.;  Hot.  d'Orient  &  Contin- 
ental; Hot.  des  Voyageurs;  pop.  29,080),  a  prosperous  agricultural 
town,  was  founded  in  1849  on  the  plan  of  a  Roman  camp,  with 
streets  at  right  angles,  and  is  surrounded  by  suburbs  occupied 
mainly  by  Spanish  immigrants.  This  is  the  headquarters  of  the 
Legion  Etrangere,  composed  mainly  of  adventurers  and  deserters 
from  Germany  and  other  countries,  the  first  regiment  of  whom  is 
located  here  and  the  second  at  Sa'ida  (p.  201).  The  legion  is  for  the 
most  part  stationed  on  the  Sahara  railway  (p.  199),  in  Morocco, 
or  in  the  colonies.  Great  market  on  Thursdays.  Outside  the  S. 
gate,  the  Porte  de  Tlemcen,  are  pleasant  public  grounds  (concerts). 

A.  E.  W.  Maso?i's  novel  'The  Truants'  (London,  1904)  deals  with  the 
Foreign  Legion. 

62!/2  M.  Tabia  (2035  ft.),  the  next  important  station,  is  the 
junction  for  a  line  to  (48  M.)  Crampel  (Ras  el -Ma),  used  chiefly 
for  the  esparto  traffic  (p.  171). 

We  now  near  the  main  chain  of  the  Tell  Atlas  of  Oran.  771/2  M. 
Ain-Tellout,  with  the  spring  of  that  name  and  a  waterfall.  83  M. 
Lamorieie're  (2349  ft.),  in  a  fertile  tract,  on  the  Isser.  Near 
Hadjar-Roum,  to  the  E.  of  the  station,  lay  the  Roman  Altava. 

89x/2  M.  Oued-Chouly,  on  the  brook  of  that  name,  which  bursts 
forth  in  cascades  from  a  ravine  to  join  the  Isser.  Near  this,  at 
Sidi-Hamza,  are  considerable  onyx-quarries.  The  train  now  as- 
cends rapidly  to  (97  M.)  Ain-Fezza  (2855  ft.). 

We  next  enter  the  upper  *Safsaf  Valley,  enclosed  by  the  high 
limestone  slopes  of  Jebel  Hanif  (3928  ft.)  and  Jebel  Chouka 
(3786  ft.),  and  in  a  sharp  bend,  passing  through  several  tunnels, 
sweep  round  the  gorge  of  El-Ourit  (p.  196),  with  its  waterfalls. 
We  skirt  the  foot  of  Sidi  Bou-Medine  (p.  194),  obtaining  a  beauti- 
ful view  of  the  fertile  hill-country  to  the  right,  and  run  through 
olive-groves  to  (lOS1/^  M.)  Tlemcen  (see  p.  187) 


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187 


30.  Tleracen. 

The  Station  lies  to  the  E.,  6  niin.  beyond  the  Porte  de  Sidi  Bou- 
Medine  (PI.  D,  2,  3). 

Hotels.  Hotel  de  France  (PI.  b ;  C,  3),  Rue  de  Fez,  R.  2>/3-4,  B.  l»/4, 
ddj.  3.  D.  4,  pens.  9-12,  omn.  1  fr. ;  Hotel  Charles  (PI.  a;  C,  2),  Place  des 
Vietoires,  R.  3,  B.  3/4,  dej.  or  D.  3,  pens.  7'/2>  omn.  1  fr.,  good,  though  plain, 
with  restaurant.  —  Cafes  in  the  Place  de  la  Mairie,  Place  des  Vietoires,  etc. 

Carriages  (mostly  with  three  horses,  poor  but  not  dear;  fares  accord- 
ing to  bargain)   in   the  Place   des  Vietoires  and  Esplanade  du  Mechouar. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  B,  2),  Boulevard  National. 

One  Day  and  a  Half.  1st.  Forenoon,  *Great  Mosque  (p.  189),  Museum 
(p.  190),  *Sidi  el- Haloid  Mosque  (p.  191),  Agddir  (p.  196);  afternoon,  ''Man- 
sura  (p.  193).  —  2nd.  *Sidi  Bou-Me'dine  (p.  194).  Mosques  open  daily  8-11 
a.m.;  at  other  times  a  permit  of  the  sub-prefect  (see  PI.  B,  2)  is  required 
(comp.  also  p.  174). 

Tlemcen  (2658  ft.),  the  old  capital  of  the  central  Maghreb 
(Maghreb  el-Oust),  was  in  the  middle  ages,  along  with  Fez,  one  of 
the  great  trading  stations  between  the  W.  Sahara  and  the  Mediter- 
ranean, and  had  a  factory  of  the  Genoese  and  the  Venetians.  It  is 
now,  after  Oran,  the  most  important  town  in  the  province,  with 
37,300  inhab.  (including  25,500  Mohammedans,  chiefly  Berbers 
and  Moors,  and  5000  Jews) ;  it  possesses  the  only  Medersa  (p.  228) 
in  the  province  of  Oran,  founded  in  1904,  and  is  the  chief  military 
post  on  the  W.  frontier  of  Algeria.  The  town  is  very  charmingly 
situated  on  a  flat  hill  at  the  base  of  a  ridge  crowned  with  the  Kubba 
Lalla-Setti  (3363  ft.).,  a  spur  of  the  Jebel  Terni  or  Massif  de 
Tlemcen.  Beyond  the  extensive  hilly  region  to  the  N.,  sloping 
steeply  down  to  the  valleys  of  the  Isser  and  the  Tafna  (p.  185),  we 
descry  the  bold  mountains  of  the  Traras  group  (p.  198)  and  of 
Jebel  Sebaa-Chioukh  (p.  185).  The  nearer  environs  of  the  town, 
on  the  upper  margin  of  the  plateau,  are  exuberantly  fertile.  Luxur- 
iant fruit-bearing  hedged  are  interspersed  with  groves  of  gigan- 
tic olive,  carob,  and  pistachio  trees,  from  whose  shade  peep  forth 
the  white  domes  of  numerous  tombs  of  saints  (p.  172). 

Tlemcen  still  contains  historic  memorials  of  its  mediaeval  prime 
and  a  number  of  Moorish  works  of  art,  mostly  of  the  Abdelwadite 
and  Merinide  periods  (p.  188).  These  last,  like  the  buildings  of 
Fez  and  Kairwan  (p.  372),  are  among  the  most  interesting  in 
Barbary.  Their  great  charm  consists  in  the  fact  that  their  native 
characteristics  have  been  preserved  in  a  picturesque  environment 
where  customs  and  dress  differ  but  slightly  from  those  of  the  an- 
cient East. 

Pomaria,  the  earliest  settlement  in  this  region,  was  once,  like  Altava 
(p.  186)  and  Numerus  Syrurum  (p.  197),  a  Roman  camp  for  the  defence 
of  the  most  important  military  road  in  Mauretania  Cajsariensis  (p.  244), 
but  in  Roman  times,  notwithstanding  its  favourable  position,  it  was  out- 
stripped by  Siga  (p.  185).  On  its  site,  by  the  time  of  Sidi  Okba  (p.  322). 
there  had   already   sprung   up   the  Berber  settlement   of  Agddir,   which, 


188     Route  so.  TLEMCEN.  History. 

under  Idris  I.  (p.  95)  in  790,  became  the  fortified  capital  of  the  E.  pro- 
vince of  Morocco  for  defence  against  the  Kharijite  kingdom  in  Tiaret 
(p.  208).  For  seven  centuries  from  that  time  onwards  it  was  involved 
in  all  the  party  struggles  for  the  possession  of  Barbary.  During  the 
conflicts  of  Omaiyades  (p.  69)  and  Fatimites  (p.  323),  the  governors  of  Agadir, 
descendants  of  Solaiinan  ben-Abdallah,  brother  of  Idris  I.,  maintained 
their  position  as  vassals  of  one  or  other  of  these  dynasties,  but  in  973 
the  town  was  sacked  by  Bologgin  ez-Ziri  (p.  323)  in  the  course  of  a  war 
against  the  Omaiyades. 

In  1081  the  Almoravide  Yusuf  ibn  Teshufin  (p.  95)  appeared  before 
the  gates  of  Agadir,  and  on  the  site  of  his  camp  (Berber  'tagrart')  founded 
the  new  town  of  Tagrart,  afterwards  the  Telensin  or  Tlimsdn  of  the 
Moors,  and  united  W.  Algeria  with  Morocco.  In  1145  the  vicinity  of 
Tagrart  witnessed  the  decisive  battle  between  Takhfin  ben-Ali  (p.  183) 
and  Abd  el-Mumen  (p.  95)  which  sealed  the  fate  of  the  Almoravide 
kingdom.  Since  then  Tagrart  appears  in  history  as  the  seat  of  Almohade 
governors  of  the  family  of  Abd  el- Wad,  settled  near  Tlemcen,  a  branch 
of  the  powerful  Berber  tribe  of  the  Zenata,  and  also  as  a  military  camp, 
while  the  lower  classes  only  inhabited  Agadir. 

The  fall  of  the  Almohades  (p.  95)  gave  rise  to  the  kingdom  of  Tlemcen, 
which  was  soon  extended  to  the  W.  to  the  Muluya  (p.  124)  and  to  the  E. 
to  Bougie  (p.  262).  The  first  independent  monarch  was  Yarraorasen  ben- 
Zeiyan  (1239-82),  of  the  Abdelwadites,  who,  with  the  aid  of  Moorish 
artists  from  Andalusia,  transformed  Tlemcen,  his  capital,  into  a  rival  of 
Fez  as  one  of  the  most  brilliant  art-centres  in  Barbary. 

Embellished  in  legend  and  in  poetry,  and  most  famous  among  epi- 
sodes in  the  annals  of  the  Maghreb  were  the  two  sieges  of  Tlemcen  by 
the  Merinides  (p.  95).  The  first  siege  by  Abu  Yakub  and  his  grandson 
Abii-Tsabit  Omar  (1299-1307)  commenced  with  the  foundation  of  the  forti- 
fied town  of  El-Mahalla  el-3Iansura,  which,  saving  the  mosque,  was  razed 
to  the  ground  by  the  Abdelwadites  after  the  withdrawal  of  the  Moroccan 
army,  but  was  rebuilt  by  Abu'l-Hasen  Ali  (1335-7)  on  the  occasion  of 
the  second,  and  this  time  successful,  siege  of  Tlemcen. 

To  the  brief  sway  of  the  Merinides  (1337-59)  Tlemcen  is  indebted 
for  almost  all  the  important  buildings  outside  of  its  walls.  The  chief 
residence  of  Abu'l-Hasen  Ali  (d.  1348),  next  to  Fez,  was  Mansura,  where 
he  erected  a  new  'palace  of  victory'  as  his  kasba;  but  the  place  was 
abandoned  under  Abu  Inan  Fares  (1348-58),  and  from  that  time  down  to 
the  French  period  it  merely  served  as  a  stone-quarry. 

During  the  brilliant  reign  of  Abu  Haniinu  Musa  II.  (1359-89),  the 
first  of  the  Ziyanides  (1359-1517),  the  younger  Abdelwadite  dynasty,  his 
court  vied  with  that  of  Granada  as  a  resort  of  artists,  poets,  and  scholars; 
but  from  that  time  onwards  Tlemcen  shared  the  general  decadence  of 
Barbary.  It  was  not  only  the  chief  scene  of  all  the  conflicts  between 
the  Merinides  and  Hafsides  (p.  323),  but  was  grievously  torn  by  internal 
dissensions  also,  so  that  it  soon  lost  all  importance.  After  the  overthrow 
of  the  Ziyanides  by  Horuk  Barbarossa  (p.  221),  and  after  a  short  occu- 
pation by  the  Spaniards  (1518),  Tlemcen  became  a  poor  provincial  town 
in  the  beylic  of  Oran.  The  present  town-walls  (1855-6)  and  a  whole  new 
quarter  are  creations  of  the  French  regime,  under  which,  in  1842,  Tlemcen 
was  incorporated  with  their  new  colony  of  Algeria. 

Comp.  Marqais's  book  on  Tlemcen  mentioned  at  p.  175  and  A.  Bel's 
'Tlemcen  et  ses  Environs'  (Oran,  1909). 

From  the  Porte  de  Sidi  Bou-Medine  (PI.  D,  2,  3),  the  chief  gate 
of  the  town,  the  Eue  de  Sidi  Bel- Abbes  leads  in  2  min.  to  the  Espla- 
nade du  Mechouar  (PL  C,  3),  planted  with  fine  plane-trees.  On 
the  left  rises  the  — 

Mechouar  (Arabic  rneshwdr,  the  king's  castle),  the  residence 
of  the  Abdelwadites  and  Ziyanides,  erected  by  Yarmorasen  about 


Chreat  Mosque.  TLEMCEN.  30.  Route.      189 

1255,  a  great  quadrangular  pile,  forming  like  the  Alhambra  a 
complete  quarter  of  the  town.  The  building  was  largely  destroyed 
during  a  revolt  against  Hassan,  Bey  of  Mascara,  in  1670,  and  in 
1842  was  replaced  by  French  barracks.  The  only  relics  of  the 
original  edifice  are  the  Castle  Wall,  built  by  Abfi'l-Abbas  Ahmed, 
the  thirteenth  Ziyanide,  with  its  modern  clock-tower  of  1843,  and 
the  Castle  Mosque,  founded  in  1317,  which  was  long  used  as  a 
storehouse.  The  latter,  having  been  converted  into  a  chapel  for 
the  military  hospital,  has  lost  its  original  character  in  the  interior 
(adm.  on  application). 

From  the  E.  end  of  the  Esplanade  the  Rue  du  Theatre  leads  to 
the  Place  des  Yictoires  (PI.  C,  D,  2),  planted  with  trees,  from  the 
parapet  of  which  we  look  down  on  the  E.  Mohammedan  quarter 
(p.  191)  and  the  hills  of  the  Safsaf  valley. 

A  little  to  the  N.W.  is  the  Place  de  la  Mairie  (PI.  0,  2),  which, 
together  with  the  Place  d' Alger  (p.  190)  on  its  W.  side,  forms  the 
business  centre  of  the  town.  On  its  S.  side  rises  the  Mairie  (PI.  C,  2), 
erected  in  1843.  In  the  court  are  two  onyx  columns  from  Man- 
sura,  bearing  two  huge  stone  balls  which  were  thrown  into  the  town 
during  one  of  the  Merinide  sieges. 

The  *Great  Mosque  (PI.  C,  2;  Arabic  Jdma  el-Kebir),  the 
back  of  which  bounds  the  N.  side  of  the  square,  now  the  only  edi- 
fice of  the  Almoravide  period  at  Tlemcen,  is  very  important  in  art- 
history  as  one  of  the  few  Moorish  buildings  of  the  12th  cent,  that 
have  survived  without  alteration.  The  inscription  on  the  frieze  of 
the  drum  of  the  mihrab  dome  records  the  name  of  the  founder,  the 
caliph  Ali  ibn  Yfisuf,  who  with  the  aid  of  Andalusian  artists  erected 
the  court  and  the  house  of  prayer  adjacent  to  the  Kasr  el-Kadim, 
or  royal  castle,  in  1135-8.  The  minaret  was  not  added  till  the 
reign  of  Yarmorasen  (after  1250).  The  kubba  at  the  S.W.  angle, 
adjoining  the  Rue  de  France,  once  perhaps  the  tomb  of  Yarmorasen 
and  several  of  the  Ziyanides,  now  contains  the  vault  of  Mohammed 
ben-Merzug.  On  the  E.  side  of  the  mosque,  near  the  old  vine  in  the 
side-street,  is  a  second  saint's  tomb,  the  kubba  of  Ahmed  Bel- 
Hasen  el-Ghomari  (d.  1466).  The  library,  a  later  addition  next 
to  the  minaret,  has  been  removed  by  the  French. 

The  square  court  of  the  mosque,  which  we  enter  on  the  E.  side, 
is  flanked  on  three  sides  by  triple  or  quadruple  arcades;  the  two 
aisles  of  the  N.  arcade,  which  precede  the  minaret,  are  of  later 
date.  The  irregular  plan  of  the  arcades  and  of  the  main  portal 
leadiug  into  the  nave  of  the  mosque  was  probably  due  to  the  situ- 
ation of  the  castle.  The  onyx  pavement  of  the  court  is  preserved 
in  part  only. 

The  Interior,  consisting  of  a  central  nave  (15  by  lO1^  ft.)  with 
twelve  narrower  aisles,  is  entered  by  five  portals  on  the  S.  side  of 
the  court,  whose  arches  are  of  round  or  pointed  horseshoe  form  or 


190     Route  30.  TLEMOEN.      Sidi  Bel-Hassen  Mosque. 

multifoil,  and  also  by  two  E.  portals.  The  arcades,  whose  arches  are 
mostly  horseshoe-shaped,  but  in  a  few  cases  pointed,  rest  on  short 
pillars.  The  open  roof  is  well  preserved.  The  nave  is  crowned  with 
two  domes,  the  nearer  rising  behind  the  sedda  (p.  180),  while  the 
second,  over  the  mihrab  chapel,  shows  beginnings  of  stalactite  vault- 
ing. The  great  candelabrum  under  the  central  dome  is  modern  and 
is  for  the  most  part  an  imitation  of  the  old  one  said  to  have  been 
presented  by  Yarmorasen  and  now  in  the  Museum  (see  below).  The 
mimbar  and  kursi  (p.  451)  are  of  no  artistic  value,  and  the  maksura 
(p.  71)  has  disappeared.  The  elegant  stucco  ornamentation  of  the 
*Mihrab,  which  even  extends  to  the  exterior,  where  the  stone 
slabs  are  framed  with  multifoil  arches,  recalls  the  mosque  of  Cor- 
dova. The  prayer-niche  is  lighted  by  three  perforated  windows 
of  plaster.    Behind  the  mihrab  is  the  sacristy. 

The  Minaret,  115  ft.  high,  resembling  the  tower  of  Agadir 
(p.  196),  atfords  a  beautiful  view  of  the  town  and  environs. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  Place  d'Alger  (PI.  C,  2),  where  the  ruins 
of  the  famous  Medersa  Jadida  or  Tdkhfiniya,  a  school  for  the 
learned  erected  by  the  Abdelwadite  Abu  Takhfin  (1322-37),  existed 
down  to  1876,  rises  the  — 

*Sidi  Bel-Hassen  Mosque,  now  the  Museum  (PI.  2,  B  C,  2; 
custodian  in  the  court  of  the  Mairie;  fee  1/2  fr.),  erected  in  1296 
by  the  Abdelwadite  Abu  Said  Otsman.  It  consists  of  nave  and  two 
aisles,  with  a  low  minaret.  Used  by  the  French  successively  as  a 
storehouse  and  a  school,  it  was  carefully  restored  in  1900,  and  is 
now  a  perfect  gem  in  the  interior.  The  stucco  *Decoration  of  the 
walls,  preserved  in  part  only,  with  its  rich  and  graceful  arabesques 
(p.  445),  and  the  geometrical  ornamentation  of  the  round-arched 
plaster  windows,  recall  the  sumptuous  rooms  of  the  Alcazar  at 
Seville  and  the  Alhambra  of  Granada.  The  half- dome  of  the 
**Mihrab,  whose  horseshoe  mural  arch  rests  on  two  small  columns 
of  onyx,  is  borne  by  stalactite  or  honeycomb  vaulting.  The  ancient 
roof  of  cedar  is  well  preserved  in  the  left  aisle  only. 

Below  the  two  friezes  with  Cufic  inscriptions  adjoining  the  Mihrab 
are  fragments,  built  into  the  wall,  of  fayence  tiles  from  the  old  Medersa 
Takhfiniya  and  the  Michouar.  The  beautiful  onyx  basin  once  belonged  to 
the  latrine-court  of  the  Great  Mosque.  Along  the  walls  are  several  Roman 
and  numerous  Mohammedan  tombstones,  some  of  them  belonging  to  kings 
of  Tlemcen.  Near  the  entrance  is  the  so-called  Coudee  Royale,  a  marble 
slab  from  the  Kessaria  (comp.  p.  191),  bearing  an  ell-measure  and  regula- 
tions for  the  trade  of  Christian  merchants  with  the  natives  (1328).  In  the 
second  room  are  the  old  candelabrum  and  remains  of  the  old  maksura  of 
the  Great  Mosque  (comp.  above),  Moorish  and  Turkish  tiles,  etc.  On  the 
first  floor  is  the  Geological  Museum. 

The  dirty  streets  to  the  S.  of  the  Place  de  la  Mairie  and  the 
Place  d'Alger,  which  have  been  laid  out  in  straight  lines  under  the 
French  regime,  belong  to  the  Jewish  Quarter,  where,  however,  a  few 
of  the  old  one-storied  houses  with  a  kind  of  sunken  fiat,  still  survive. 


Sidi  el- Haloui  Mosque.         TLEMCEN.  30.  Route.      191 

A  pleasanter  walk  may  be  taken  through  the  Mohammedan 
Quarters,  especially  that  to  the  E.  of  the  Place  de  la  Mairie, 
where  we  may  witness,  especially  on  market-day  (Mon.),  the  most 
lively  and  picturesque  scenes  of  native  life.  The  busiest  points  are 
the  March6  Convert  (PI.  C,  2)  in  the  Place  du  Kessaria,  where  the 
Italian  merchants  had  their  offices  in  the  middle  ages,  and  also  the 
Rue  de  Mascara  (PI.  C,  D,  2,  1)  and  the  Rue  Kaldoun  (PL  C,  D,  1). 
Adjoining  the  Rue  de  Mascara,  once  the  Snk  el-Berada'in  (saddlers' 
market),  is  an  impasse  called  the  Derb  el-Msoufa,  in  which  is  situ- 
ated the  little  Mosque  of  Sidi  Senoussi  (PI.  D,  2;  his  tomb  is 
near  Sidi  Bou-Medine,  p.  194),  with  a  graceful  minaret  inlaid  with 
tiles  and  a  small  house  of  prayer  on  the  first  floor. 

In  the  street  between  the  Rue  de  Mascara  and  the  Rue  Kaldoun 
are  the  so-called  Bains  des  Teinturiers  (PI.  D,  1 ;  Hammdm  es- 
Sebbdghin),  an  ancient  Moorish  bath-house  (12th  cent.?),  the  plan 
of  which  seems  to  have  been  an  exact  copy  of  the  Roman  bath. 

The  ante-room,  now  much  altered,  was  apparently  the  tepidarium. 
Straight  on  we  come  to  the  apodyterium,  a  domed  room  on  twelve  short 
mediaeval  columns,  with  a  gallery  running  round  it.  To  the  left  of  this 
room  is  the  caldarium  in  three  sections,  with  the  heating  apparatus  on 
the  E.  side.     The  S.  side-room  is  the  frigidarium. 

At  the  end  of  the  Rue  Kaldoun  we  leave  the  town  by  the  Porte 
de  l'Abattoir  (PI.  D,  1;  road  to  Agadir,  see  p.  196),  and  turn  to  the 
left,  skirting  the  town-walls,  above  the  dilapidated  Sidi  Lahsen 
Mosque,  built  by  Abfi'l-Abbas  Ahmed  (p.  189),  which  has  an  elegant 
minaret  and  an  interior  restored  in  the  Turkish  period. 

On  a  slope  near  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  town-walls,  below  the 
railway,  and  formerly  below  the  Bab  Sidi'l-Haloui,  is  the  tomb  of 
the  saint  of  that  name  (d.  1307),  adjoined  by  the — 

*Sidi  el-Haloui  Mosque,  a  creation  of  the  Merinide  Abu 
Inan  Fares  (p.  188).  The  pinnacled  outer  gateway  leads  to  the  now 
freely  restored  chief  portal,  with  its  fine  inlaid  mosaic  tiles,  two 
friezes  with  inscriptions,  and  a  projecting  timber  roof. 

The  ground-plan  of  this  mosque  is  similar  to  that  of  the  slightly 
earlier  mosque  of  Sidi  Bou-Medine  (p.  194).  From  the  court,  en- 
closed by  a  single  arcade,  we  enter  the  house  of  prayer  with  its  nave 
(11  ft.  broad),  double  aisles  (10  ft.),  and  transept.  The  square  mihrab 
chapel  is  covered  by  a  slightly  elevated  tiled  roof  instead  of  a 
dome.  The  old  timber  ceiling  of  the  interior  has  recently  been 
much  restored,  and  remains  of  the  superb  stucco  decoration  have 
lately  been  brought  to  light  from  under  the  whitewash.  The  mihrab 
has  lost  all  its  rich  ornamentation  save  the  stalactite  vaulting.  The 
eight  onyx  *Columns,  brought  from  Mansura,  which  support  the 
pointed  horseshoe  arches  of  the  arcades,  are  remarkable  for  their 
beautiful  capitals  in  the  Moorish  style. 

The  minaret  added  at  the  W.  angle  of  the  court,  with  its  multi- 
foil  arched  niches  in  the  two  lower  stories  and  reticulated  work  on 


192     Route  30.  TLEMCEN.  Sidi  Brahim  Mosque. 

the  upper,  resembles  that  of  the  mosque  of  Sidi  Bou-M6dine.  A 
portal  opposite  with  a  projecting  roof  leads  to  the  domed  Latrines. 

We  now  follow  the  path  to  the  W.,  skirting  the  town-walls,  and 
affording  fine  views,  to  the  Porte  du  Nord  (PI.  B,  1),  through  which 
we  enter  the  Rue  de  Prance.  From  this  street  the  Boulevard  National 
soon  diverges  to  the  right  to  the  large  Place  Cavaignac  (PI.  B, 
1,  2),  the  chief  square  in  the  uniformly  built  French  quarter.  The 
font  in  the  church  of  St.  Michel  (PL  B,  2)  came  from  the  mosque 
of  Mansura. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  church  runs  the  Rue  Xim6nes,  intersecting 
the  whole  town.  This  street,  or  the  Rue  de  la  Victoire  (PL  C,  B,  2), 
which  begins  at  the  Place  d'Algier,  forms  the  chief  approach  to  the 
S.  W.  Mohammedan  Quarter,  which  was  inhabited  in  the  Turkish 
period  mainly  by  Kuluglis  (p.  171).  At  the  S.  end  of  the  Rue  Xi- 
menes,  on  the  left,  is  the  interesting  Ecole  Professionnelle  Indigene 
de  Tapis  (PL  C,  4;  adm.  daily  8-11  and  2-5,  except  on  Sun.,  Frid., 
and  great  festivals). 

The  busy  Rue  Haedo,  prolonging  the  Rue  de  la  Victoire,  leads 
to  the  S.W.  to  the  Porte  de  Fez  (PL  A,  4).  In  the  Rue  Sidi-Brahim, 
the  first  side-street  on  the  left,  is  the  — 

Sidi  Brahim  Mosque  (PL  B,  3),  formerly  belonging  to  the  Medersa 
Yakubiya.  The  Medersa  was  built  in  1362  by  Abu  Hammu  Mfisa  II. 
(p.  188),  and  named  after  his  father,  but  the  last  vestiges  of  it  were 
removed  in  1846.  This  small  mosque,  with  nave  and  double  aisles, 
received  its  present  decoration  in  the  Turkish  period.  The  mihrab, 
adorned  with  the  Turkish  crescent,  has  mural  tiles  with  gold  lustre 
in  the  Gubbio  style.  The  present  pulpit,  from  which  the  Friday 
prayer  was  recited  for  the  Kuluglis,  was  executed  by  the  Turkish 
artist  Mohammed  Ben-Hasen  Ben-Ferfara  (-1831-2),  and  the  door 
of  the  old  sacristy  was  carved  by  Salim  Bu-Jenan  Ben-Ferfara. 
The  Kubba  of  Sidi  Brahim  (d.  1401),  adjoining  the  mosque,  still 
contains  its  old  geometric  stucco  decoration  and  mosaic  tiles. 

The  Ouldd  el-Imdm  Mosque  (PL  B,  3),  to  the  N.  of  the  Rue 
Haedo,  was  built  about  1310  by  the  Abdelwadite  Abu  Hammu  I. 
as  a  chapel  for  the  Medersa  el-Kadima,  the  oldest  school  of  the 
learned  at  Tlemcen,  but  is  now  in  a  sad  state  of  ruin.  The  minaret 
still  shows  traces  of  fayence  mosaics.  The  fine  mihrab  was  prob- 
ably redecorated  under  the  Ziyanides. 

In  the  Rue  d'Hennaya,  near  the  Fez  Gate,  rises  the  modern 
Medersa  (PL  A,  B,  3),  a  tasteful  new-Moorish  edifice  (visitors 
admitted). 

To  the  W.  of  the  modern  town-walls,  between  the  Porte  de  Fez 
and  the  Porte  d'Oran,  lies  the  Grand  Bassin  (PL  A,  3 ;  Arabic 
Sahrij  el-Kebir  or  ben-Bedda),  a  large  reservoir,  similar  to  the 
reservoirs  of  Kairwan  and  Marakesh,  constructed  of  concrete, 
220  yds.  long,  110  yds.  broad,  and  10  ft.  deep,  now  used  as  a  drill- 


MANSURA.  so.  Route.     193 

ground.  It  is  said  to  have  been  made  by  Abu  Takhfin  (p.  190). 
According  to  a  tradition  the  last  of  the  Ziyanide  dynasty  were 
drowned  here  by  Horuk  Barbarossa  (p.  221)  in  1517. 

To  the  N.W.  of  the  French  town-walls,  between  the  Porte  d'Oran 
and  the  Porte  du  Nord  (p.  192),  rises  the  *Bab  el-Kermadln 
(PI.  A,  1 ;  potters'  gate),  which  already  existed  in  the  time  of  Yar- 
morasen  (p.  188),  so  named  from  the  potsherds  contained  in  its  con- 
crete masonry.  The  gateway,  with  its  four  towers  and  quadrangle, 
resembles  the  propugnaculum  of  late-Roman  town  fortifications. 

The  *Ruins  of  Mansura,  the  old  entrenched  town  of  the 
Merinides  (p.  188),  are  reached  from  the  Porte  de  Fez  (p.  192)  by 
the  road  to  Lalla-Marnia  (p.  197),  to  the  S."W.,  in  20-25  min.  (carr. 
there  and  back  21/2-3  fr.).  The  road  passes  (74  hr.)  the  so-called 
Bdb  el-Khemis,  a  brick  structure  of  unknown  use,  now  much  re- 
stored. A  little  above  it  are  the  ruins  of  a  second  building  of 
uncertain  origin  (possibly  the  ancient  Mosalla). 

In  6  min.  more  we  reach  the  old  *Town  Wall  of  Mansura, 
near  the  former  E.  gate  of  the  town,  within  the  precincts  of  which, 
to  the  left,  above  the  road,  is  ensconced  the  modern  agricultural 
village  of  Mansura  amid  luxuriant  vegetation.  The  walls,  40  ft.  high, 
constructed  of  concrete,  enclose  a  great  irregular  quadrilateral 
space  of  about  4400  yds.  in  length,  and  are  still  largely  preserved 
on  the  N.W.  and  S.W.  sides.  Of  the  towers,  about  80  in  number,  con- 
nected by  a  crenellated  passage,  most  are  rectangular  in  form,  but 
the  four  far-projecting  corner-towers,  like  the  eight  gate-towers, 
are  quadrangular. 

Near  the  old  E.  gate,  above  the  road,  are  a  Bridge  and  remains 
of  a  rudely  paved  Street  of  the  Merinide  period.  Of  the  old  Palace 
of  Victory,  the  Kasba  of  Abu'l-Hasen  Ali  (p.  188) ,  once  sump- 
tuously fitted  up,  there  are  now,  on  the  highest  ground  in  the  town 
precincts,  at  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  present  village,  a  few  scanty  re- 
lics only,  the  chief  of  which  is  the  inner  court,  resembling  the 
myrtle  court  of  the  Alhambra  (p.  83). 

Close  to  the  old  W.  gate,  on  a  plateau  above  tne  road,  rises  the 
:**Matisara  Tower  (130  ft.) ,  the  minaret  of  the  chief  mosque, 
founded  by  Abfi  Yak  fib  (p.  188).  The  back-wall,  the  staircase,  the 
upper  platform,  and  the  muezzin's  turret  have  fallen  in,  but  the 
ruin,  with  its  golden-toned  masonry  glowing  in  the  sunshine,  its 
peaceful  surroundings,  and  the  superb  view  from  its  base,  has  au 
indescribable  charm.    The  ruin  was  restored  in  1877. 

The  portal  of  the  minaret  formed  the  central  entrance  to  the  court 
of  tho  mosque.  Of  the  three  concentric  gateway  arches  the  inmost  horse- 
shoe arch,  resting  on  two  onyx  columns,  has  been  entirely  renewed. 
The  first  story  here,  as  in  no  other  Moorish  minaret,  is  adorned  with  a 
balcony,  borne  by  corner  brackets  and  stalactite  pendentives,  now  without 
columns.  The  second  story,  relieved  by  narrow  window  openings,  has 
the   usual   reticulated   ornamentation,  while   tho   upper  story  is   adorned 


194     Route  30.  SIDI  BOU-MEDINE.  Kubba. 

with  multifoil  arched  niohes.    Remains  of  the  fayence  mosaics  are  still 
visible  at  places. 

The  custodian,  who  has  generally  to  be  asked  for  in  the  village, 
shows  the  ruins  of  the  court  and  of  the  mosque  itself,  which  once  had 
thirteen  arcades.  

The  hill-village  of  Sidi  Bou-Medine  (2841ft.),  picturesque- 
ly situated  amid  olive-groves  on  the  slopes  of  Jebel  Mefroitch, 
20  min.  to  the  E.  of  Tlemcen,  contains,  like  Mansura,  some  of  the 
finest  existing  memorials  of  the  Merinide  period.  It  was  once  named 
Eubbad  el-Ftiki  ('upper  Eubbad'),  and  at  a  very  early  period  be- 
longed to  a  monastery,  the  Ribdt  el-Eubbdd,  but  it  derives  its 
present  name  from  Sidi  AbU- Median,  a  scholar  from  Seville  (about 
1126-97),  who  was  buried  here  by  order  of  the  Almohade  Mohammed 
en-Nasir  (1198-1213).  Around  the  kubba  of  that  great  scholar  and 
saint,  which  for  centuries  attracted  countless  pilgrims,  are  grouped 
the  buildings  of  the  Merinide  sovereigns. 

The  road  to  Sidi  Bou-Medine,  only  the  lower  half  of  which  is 
fit  for  driving,  branches  to  the  right  from  the  Sidi  Bel-Abbes  and 
Ain-Temouchent  road,  2  min.  from  the  Porte  de  Sidi  Bou-Medine, 
and  passes  below  the  Mohammedan  Cemetery  (makbara),  with  its 
wealth  of  cypresses.  By  the  wayside  are  a  number  of  saints'  tombs, 
mostly  in  ruins,  among  which  is  the  kubba  of  Sidi  Senoussi 
(d.  1490),  with  its  green-tiled  roof.  We  pass  also  the  remains  of 
mosque  walls  and  a  ruined  minaret,  which  belonged  to  the  village 
of  Eubbdd  es-Sefli  ('lower  Eubbad')  once  situated  here. 

We  ascend  through  a  defile  shaded  with  fine  old  fig  and  cherry 
trees,  and  soon  seach  the  lower  entrance  of  the  village,  whence  we 
go  straight  on  to  the  mosque,  with  its  conspicuous  minaret,  and 
the  kubba  of  the  saint  (guide  quite  needless).  The  outer  gateway, 
decorated  anew  in  the  later  Turkish  period,  with  its  clumsy  wooden 
penthouse  in  front,  is  the  entrance  to  a  forecourt,  within  which  are 
the  two  sacred  edifices  and  the  Maison  de  VOukil  (now  the  works- 
office),  a  building  of  the  time  of  Mohammed  el-Kebir  (p.  178),  on 
the  site  of  the  ancient  Zaou'ia  or  pilgrims'  hospice. 

The  Kubba  of  Sidi  Bou-Me'dine,  to  which  steps  descend  to  the 
left  under  the  penthouse,  was  restored  by  the  Merinide  Abu'l-Hasen 
Ali  (p.  188),  and  towards  the  end  of  the  18th  cent,  was  injured  by 
a  fire.  It  owes  its  present  decoration,  save  the  four  onyx  columns 
from  Mansura  and  the  sacred  fountain  in  the  vestibule,  to  Mo- 
hammed el-Kebir,  whose  artist,  named  in  the  inscription  on  the 
frieze  of  the  gateway,  was  El-Hashmi  ben-Sarmashik  (1793).  The 
vault,  richly  garnished  with  flags,  ostrich-eggs,  votive  offerings,  etc., 
contains  the  coffins  of  Sidi  Abu-Median  and  the  Tunisian  saint 
Sidi  Abd  es-Selam  side  by  side  (custodian  20-30  c). 

The  *Mosque,  erected  in  1339  by  Abfi'l-Hasen  Ali,  about  the 
same  date  as  the  myrtle-court  palace  of  the  Alhambra  (comp.  p.  80), 


Mosque.  SIDI  BOU-MEDINE.  s°-  Route.     195 

is  one  of  the  most  brilliant  creations  of  the  exuberant  Moorish  art 
of  the  14th  cent.;  and,  thanks  to  the  sanctity  of  its  site,  it  has 
survived  the  wars  of  the  Ziyanide  age  and  resisted  the  decadence  of 
the  Turkish  period  without  serious  damage.  The  custodian  is  usu- 
ally to  be  found  in  the. vestibule  of  the  gateway. 

The  **Chief  Portal,  now  skilfully  restored,  is  a  masterpiece 
uf  artistic  decoration.  The  superb  outer  gateway,  whose  lofty 
horseshoe  arch  opens  into  the  vestibule,  is  lavishly  enriched  with 
fayence  mosaics,  which  show  beautiful  arabesque  patterns  in  the 
rectangular  stonework  of  the  doorway,  and  geometrical  designs 
above  the  frieze  with  the  inscriptions.  The  gateway  is  crowned  by 
a  tiled  roof  resting  on  narrow  brackets. 

Eleven  steps  ascend  to  the  vestibule,  where  the  stucco  decor- 
ation of  the  upper  wall-surfaces  vies  in  beauty  with  the  stalactites 
of  the  dome.  At  the  inner  gateway  the  lower  part  of  the  doors  of 
cedar-wood  has  been  skilfully  encrusted  anew  with  brouze.  The 
door-knockers  resemble  those  of  the  present  Puerta  del  Perd6n  at 
Cordova  (p.  70). 

"We  now  cross  the  simple  Court  of  the  Mosque,  flanked  with 
single  arcades,  to  the  Mosque  itself,  with  its  nave  and  double  aisles. 
The  somewhat  broader  nave  and  the  transept  by  the  wall  of  the 
mihrab  recall  the  ground-plan  of  Sidi  Okba's  Mosque  at  Kairwan 
(p.  374).  The  arcades,  whose  horseshoe  arches,  like  those  in  the 
court,  rest  on  pillars  of  masonry,  and  all  the  wall-surfaces  are  en- 
crusted with  stucco.  The  richly  coffered  stucco  ceiling  of  the  aisles 
is  well  preserved,  but  the  perforated  dome  of  the  mihrab  chapel 
was  tastelessly  restored  in  the  later  Turkish  period.  The  *Mihrab, 
with  its  stalactite  half-dome,  its  friezes  with  Cufic  inscriptions, 
and  the  three  perforated  plaster  windows,  deserves  special  attention. 
The  capitals  of  the  two  onyx  columns  which  support  the  horseshoe 
arch  of  the  niche  are  the  finest  at  Tlemcen.   The  pulpit  is  modern. 

The  *Minaret,  like  the  Kutubia  at  Marakesh,  which  it  resem- 
bles in  its  lowest  story,  still  shows  the  three  copper  balls  on  its 
muezzin-turret.  The  rosette  ornamentation  under  the  platform  is 
peculiar.  The  ascent  is  recommended  for  the  sake  of  the  fine  survey 
we  obtain  of  the  village  and  the  beautiful  view  of  the  hilly  plain 
of  Tlemcen  with  the  minarets  of  Agadir  (p.  196)  and  Mansura. 

A  few  paces  above  the  outer  gateway  of  the  mosque  court  a 
flight  of  steps  on  the  right  ascends  to  the  old  Medersa,  now  a 
national  school.  This  edifice,  erected  by  Abu'l-Hasen  AH  in  1347, 
is  the  only  learned  school  of  the  kind  still  preserved  in  Barbary, 
besides  that  of  Marakesh  ;  but  it  has  been  almost  entirely  restored, 
first  by  Mohammed  el-Kebir  about  1793,  and  lately  by  the  French 
government.   The  building  is  usually  shown  by  the  teacher  (50  c). 

The  portal,  ornamented  with  fayence  mosaics  and  surmounted  by  a 
projecting  roof  like  the  chief  door  of  the  neighbouring  mosque,  opens 


196     Route  30.  AGADIR. 

into  a  court,  adorned  with  a  fountain  and  flanked  with  an  arcade. 
On  each  side  are  six  cells  for  the  students  (tholba,  sing,  thaleb); 
and  there  are  four  others  in  the  small  court  adjoining  the  S.E.  angle. 
The  niches  in  the  walls  for  the  books  and  lamps  of  the  students 
should  be  noticed.  In  the  centre  of  the  S.  wall  of  the  court  is  the 
entrance  to  the  old  room  for  study  and  prayer,  with  a  mihrab  and 
a  wooden  dome  which  was  probably  restored  in  the  time  of  Mo- 
hammed el-Kebir.  The  stucco  enrichment  of  the  walls  is  best  pre- 
served on  the  entrance  side.  The  old  court  of  ablutions  adjoins  the 
N.W.  angle  of  the  main  quadrangle. 

The  platform  of  the  upper  floor  of  the  court,  where  there  are 
twelve  more  cells,  affords  the  best  view  of  the  minaret  of  the  mosque. 

At  a  small  house  near  the  Medersa  we  obtain  the  key  (fee  30  c.)  of 
the  so-called  Petit  Palais  d'el-Eubb&d,  a  ruin  popularly  called  Dar  es- 
Soltdn  (palace  of  the  sultan),  situated  below  the  Kubba  of  Sidi  Bou- 
Medine.  The  building,  which  also  dates  from  the  Merinide  period,  was 
more  probably  a  hospice  for  the  richer  pilgrims.  It  comprises  three  courts 
with  small  side-rooms  or  alcoves,  like  those  of  the  Alhambra,  and  remains 
of  baths  and  latrines.    A  visit  to  it  hardly  repays  if  time  is  limited. 

On  the  way  to  the  'Dar  es-Soltan'  we  pass  the  Latrine  Court  of  the 
mosque  and  the  so-called  Knbba  of  Sidi  el-Eubbdd.  From  (2  min.  farther) 
the  E.  end  of  the  village  we  may  descend,  and  cross  the  railway,  to 
(6  min.)  the  Sidi  Bel-Abbes  road. 

This  road  leads  to  the  E.  through  olive-groves,  and  then,  turning 
to  the  S.,  through  the  Safsaf  Valley  to  (3/4  hr.,  or  from  Tlemcen  1  hr.) 
the  gorge  of  *El-Ourit  (p.  1S6;  carr.  there  and  back  4-5  fr.).  The  bridge 
across  it  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  valley  and  the  lower  waterfalls.  (Rf mts.) 


The  road  to  A'in-Temouchent  (p.  185)  diverges  to  the  left  from 
the  Sidi  Bel-Abbes  road,  at  a  point  10  min.  from  the  Porte  de  Sidi 
Bou-Medine  (p.  188),  and  about  1j2  M.  farther  passes  near  the  gorge 
of  the  Oued  Metchkdna,  which  lies  a  little  to  the  left.  Here,  be- 
neath superb  old  terebinths  (p.  202),  on  the  site  of  the  old  Ceme- 
tery of  Agadir  ('Cimetiere  de  Sidi  Tacoub'),  are  situated  the  pretty 
kubba  of  Sidi  Wahhdb ,  the  oldest  saint  of  this  region,  said  to 
have  been  a  companion  of  the  prophet,  and  the  so-called  Tombeau 
de  la  Sultane,  a  dilapidated  octagonal  domed  building  (12th  cent.  ?), 
which  served  in  1412  as  a  tomb  for  a  Ziyanide  princess. 

The  ruins  of  Agadir  (p.  187)  may  be  reached  in  about  10  min. 
from  the  Porte  de  1' Abattoir  (PI.  D,  1 ;  p.  191)  by  the  old  Safsaf 
road  to  the  N.E.  (p.  185).  Of  the  chief  mosque  founded  here  by 
Idris  I.  (p.  95)  the  only  relic  is  the  elegant  *Minaret,  105  ft.  in 
height,  erected  by  Yarmorasen  at  the  same  time  as  the  tower  of  the 
Great  Mosque  (p.  190).  The  substructures,  19  ft.  high,  composed 
of  Roman  blocks  of  stone  from  the  ancient  Pomaria,  and  with  Ro- 
man inscriptions  built  into  them  outside  and  in  the  staircase,  pro- 
bably belonged  to  an  earlier  minaret. — A  little  to  the  E.,  beyond 
the  ravine,  are  preserved  a  few  fragments  of  the  E.Wall  of  Agadir 


LALLA-MARNIA.  8t.  Route.     197 

built  by  the  Berbers.  A  few  paces  to  the  N.  of  the  road  rises  the 
handsome  Kubba of  Sidi' d-D&oudi  (d.  1011) ;  the  present  building 
is  probably  of  the  Merinide  period. 

31.  Prom  Tlemcen  to  Nernours  via 
Lalla-Marnia. 

64  M.  Railway  to  (36V2  M.)  Lalla-Marnia  (two  trains  daily  in  ca. 
2'/«  hrs. ;  fares  6  fr.  65,  4  fr.  75,  3  fr.  55  c),  going  on  thence  to  (43  M.) 
Zoudj-el-Beghal,  the  terminus  on  the  Moroccan  frontier. 

The  Railway,  admirably  engineered,  skirts  the  N.  side  of 
Tlemcen,  and  then,  near  the  Bab  el-Kermadin  (p.  193),  turns  to 
the  S.E.  to  (3  M.)  Mansura  (p.  193)  and  crosses  the  Col  du  Juif 
(2664  ft.).  Behind  us  there  is  a  fine  view  of  Tlemcen,  while  the 
distant  view  extends  to  the  Plaine  des  Angad  and  Jebel  Beni 
Snassen  (see  below)'.  "We  next  skirt  the  N".  spurs  of  the  Jebel  Terni 
group  (p.  187)  and  pass  through  superb  valleys  and  ravines. 

7l/2N-.  Ain-Douz.  Beyond  (9'/2M.)  Zelboun  we  are  carried 
through  the  vallev  of  the  Oued  Zitoun,  one  of  the  chief  tributaries 
of  the  Tafna  (p.  185). 

18V2  M.  Turenne  (1969  ft.;  H6t.  Fournier  and  Hot.  Leclerc, 
poor),  a  thriving  village  in  a  well-watered  region.  Esparto  is  the 
chief  export. 

28y2  M.  Sidi-Medjaked,  with  a  camp  of  wedded  spahis  (p.  390). 
31  M.  Tralimet. 

36V2  M.  Lalla-Marnia  (1197  ft.;  Hot.  de  France;  Hot.  de  la 
Renaissance),  properly  Lalla-Maghrnia,  on  the  site  of  the  Roman 
castle  of  Numerus  Syrorum,  was  founded  in  1844  on  the  occasion 
of  the  campaign  against  Morocco,  and  named  after  the  tomb  of  a 
female  saint.  It  is  now  the  most  important  frontier-town  of  the 
province  of  Oran;  it  was  made  a  free  mart  in  1895,  and  holds  a 
great  Sunday  *Market,  much  frequented  by  Moroccans.  Lalla- 
Marnia  forms  the  portal  of  the  Plaine  des  Angad  or  Plaine 
d'Oudjda.  This  great  plateau  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Traras 
Group  (p.  198)  and  the  fertile  Jebel  Beni  Snassen  (4659  ft.),  both 
inhabited  by  Berber  tribes  only,  and  on  the  S.  by  the  main  chain  of 
the  Tell  Atlas.  The  old  caravan  route  to  Fez  by  Taza,  the  key  to 
N.  Morocco,  has  been  the  scene  of  all  the  expeditions  of  the  Arabs 
against  Morocco  ever  since  that  of  Sidi  Okba  in  the  7th  century. 

From  Lalla-Marnia  a  new  road  (motor-omnibus  twice  daily)  leads  to 
the  S.W.,  crossing  the  frontier  of  Morocco  halfway,  to  (ca.  35  M.)  Oudjda 
or  Vjda  (2241  ft.;  Hot.  Figari,  good,  quarters  should  be  engaged  by  tele- 
graph: pop.  ca.  8000),  the  chief  town  of  E.  Morocco,  which  is  said  to  have 
been  rounded  by  the  governors  of  Tlemcen  in  the  10th  cent.,  and  was 
occupied  by  the  French  in  1814,  1859,  and  1907.  The  picturesque  town, 
the  most  fertile  oasis  in  the  Angad  steppe,  lies  amidst  orchards  and  olive- 
groves,  not  far  from  the  Oued  My,  the  battle-field  of  1844  (p.  221).  We 
enter  the  town,  passing  the  kubba  of  Oudjda,  by  the  N.  gate  (Bab  el- 
Khemis).    Straight  on  is  the  French  Consulate  in  a  pretty  garden,  while 


198     Route  ai.  NEMOURS. 

to  the  left  are  the  Custom  House  and  Post  Office.  In  the  S.  quarter  of 
the  town  rises  the  Kasba  or  Bar  el-Makhzen,  the  seat  of  the  Moroccan 
Arnel  or  governor.  At  the  N.  angle  of  the  Kasba  is  the  Chief  Mosque, 
dedicated  to  Sidi  Okba,  to  the  N.E.  of  which  lies  the  Silk  (p.  335).  Behind 
the  mosque  is  the  new  Ecole  Franco-Arabe.  Outside  the  E.  gate,  the 
Bab  Sidi  Abd  el-Wahhab,  is  the  camping-ground  of  the  caravans;  and  out- 
side the  S.  gate  (Bab  Oulad  Amran),  on  a  slight  eminence  10  min.  from 
the  town,  are  the  quarters  of  the  French  troops  of  occupation.  The  Thurs- 
day market  is  important.  Famous  horse-races  in  October,  in  connection 
with  those  of  Lalla-Marnia. 

For  a  visit  to  Oudjda  travellers  may  use  also  the  railway  as  far  as 
Zoudj-el-Beghal  (conip.  p.  197)  on  the  Moroccan  frontier,  whence  Oudjda 
is  about  8  M.  distant. 

The  Road  to  Nemoues  (diligence)  leads  to  the  N.  from  Lalla- 
Marniathrough  a  hilly  region,  crosses  the  Oued  Mouilah,  a  trib- 
utary of  the  Tafna,  near  the  Hammam  Sidi-Cheikh,  a  small  bath 
with  saline  springs  (91°Fahr.),  and  then  winds  up,  past  the  Kubba 
Sidi-Abdallah  (on  the  left),  towards  the  Traras  Mts.,  which  are 
famed  for  the  beauty  of  their  outlines.  In  the  Jebel  Masser,  near 
the  top  of  the  pass,  the  Col  de  Bab-Taza  (2664  ft.),  is  a  cadmium 
mine,  worked  like  the  neighbouring  mines  of  Jebel  Maaziz  by  a 
Belgian  company. — We  now  descend  to  the  N.E.  in  many  windings, 
passing  not  far  from  the  onyx-quarries  near  the  Kubba  Sidi- 
Brahim,  into  the  valley  of  the  Oued  Zebair. 

53'/2  M.  (from  Tlemcen)  N<§droma  (1312  ft.;  inn;  pop.  4900), 
superbly  situated  in  a  fertile  basin,  is  an  antiquated  little  Berber 
town,  with  fine  mediaeval  mosques.  The  *Market  (Mon.  and  Thurs.) 
is  worth  seeing  for  the  sake  of  the  picturesque  costumes  of  the 
peasants  who  flock  to  it  from  the  mountains  around.  Home-indus- 
tries are  much  in  vogue  in  the  environs. 

The  Jebel  Fillaoussen  (3727  ft.),  the  highest  of  the  Traras  group,  to 
the  E.  of  Ncdroma,  commands  an  extensive  view,  embracing  in  very 
clear  weather  the  Sierra  Nevada  in  the  far  N. 

The  road  soon  leaves  the  Oued  Zebal'r  and  turns  to  the  N.W. 
to  the  lower  course  of  the  brook,  which  takes  the  name  of  Oued 
Tle'ta  farther  on,  and  from  the  influx  of  the  Oued  Ta'ima  to  the 
sea  that  of  Oued  el-Mersa. 

In  the  upper  valley  of  the  Ta'ima,  on  the  slope  of  Jebel  Kerkour 
(1884  ft.),  are  the  Kubba  Sidi-Brahim,  where  a  small  French  force  under 
Col.  de  Montagnac  was  almost  entirely  cut  to  pieces  in  1845,  and  the 
Kubba  Sidi-Tahar,  where  Abd  el-Kader  (p.  221)  surrendered  in  1847. 
The  former  event  is  recalled  by  a  monument  in  the  Vallie  des  Jardins, 
8/4  M.  to  the  S.  of  Nemours. 

64  M.  (from  Tlemcen)  Nemours  (Hot.  de  France;  pop.  3900), 
a  pleasant  little  town,  noted  for  its  mild  and  healthy  climate,  was 
founded  in  1844  on  the  site  of  the  Roman  Ad  Fratres,  a  name  de- 
rived from  two  rocks  near  the  beach.  The  banana  culture  thrives 
in  the  environs.  On  the  Plateau  de  Taount  (407  ft.),  to  the  N.E. 
of  the  town,  are  the  ruins  of  Djemda  el-Ghazaoudt  ('marauders' 
community'),  once  a  Berber  village,  but  afterwards  a  notorious  den 
of  pirates  (p.  221). — Nemours  is  a  steamboat  station  (comp.  R.  18). 


199 

32.   From  Oran  to  Beni-Ounif  de 

Figuig  (Colomb-Bechar)  via  Damesme  and 
Perregaux. 

3%  M.  State  Railway.  Direct  communication  with  dining-car  (dej.  3, 
D.  3'/2  fr-)  an(l  sleeping-car  (12  fr.  extra)  three  times  a  week  only  (Tues., 
Thurs.,  and  Sat.;  returning  Sun.,  Wed.,  and  Frid.);  express  via  (129V2  M.) 
Saii'a  to  (305'/2  M.)  Ain-Sefra  in  16  hrs. ;  thence  by  ordinary  train  to 
Beni-Ounif  in  5'/.»hrs. ;  trains  start  from  the  Gare  d'Arzew  at  Oran  (p.  175). 
As  far  as  (55'/2  M.)  Perrigaux  we  may  travel  by  the  Oran  and  Algiers 
train  on  the  main-line  (R.  33),  noting  that  the  stations  there  are  550  yds. 
apart  (omn.  25  c).  Fares  to  Ain-Sefra  39  fr.  35,  29  fr.  50  c.  (sleeping-car, 
1st  el.  only,  12  fr.  extra;  2nd  el.  similar  to  Engl.  3rd);  to  Beni-Ounif 
50  fr.  95,  38  fr.  20  c.  (return-ticket,  valid  16  days,  71  fr.  30  or  53  fr.  50  c). 
— A  good  supply  of  copper  coins  will  be  found  very  useful. 

The  journey  from  Oran  to  the  Sahara  is  most  interesting,  as  it  car- 
ries the  traveller  from  the  seaboard  through  a  cultivated  region,  across 
the  Tell  Atlas  to  the  Hauts-Plateaux,  and  then  over  the  Sahara  Atlas  to 
the  margin  of  the  desert.  The  only  good  intermediate  resting-place  is 
Ain-Sefra,  A  stay  of  several  days  at  Beni-Ounif  will  be  found  pleasant, 
especially  in  spring.  The  oasis  of  Tiout  is  now  eclipsed  by  that  of 
Figuig,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  Sahara.  The  line  goe8  on  from 
Beni-Ounif  to  Colomb-Bechar,  its  present  terminus. 

Oran,  see  p.  175.  Our  train  crosses  the  Algiers  main-line  (R.  33), 
passes  the  suburb  of  Victor-Hugo  and  the  Daya  Morselli  (p.  185), 
and  runs  to  the  E.  through  vineyards,  fields,  and  dwarf-palm  under- 
wood in  succession,  and  then  past  the  S.  base  of  Jebel  Kahar  (p.  184) 
to  (1272  M.)  Fleurus. 

17'/2  M-  St.  Cloud  (502  It.;  hotel)  lies  pleasantly  on  the  spurs 
of  Jebel  Kristel,  674  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Kristel  (p."  184).  21  M. 
Renan-Kleber  (433  ft.).  The  village  of  Kleber  (505  ft.;  Hot. 
Voinson)  lies  2  M.  to  the  N.W.,  at  the  foot  of  Jebel  Orouze  (2070  ft. ; 
semaphore),  with  its  large  quarries  of  white,  yellow,  and  red  marble 
('rosso  antico'). 

26  31.  Damesme,  on  tin-  Bay  of  Arzew,  the  ancient  Laturus 
Stmts.  The  village  lies  above  the  station,  to  the  8. 

A  Branch  Lint:  (3  M.,  in  12-15  min.)  connects  Damesme  with  Arzew 
or  Arzeu  (7  ft. ;  Hot.  de  la  Nievre;  H6t.  des  Bains;  Brit,  vice-consul,  A. 
Gautray ;  pop.  6000),  a  small  seaport  at  the  foot  of  Jebel  Sicioun  (532  ft.), 
whence  a  goods-line  runs  to  the  S.  to  the  (9  M.)  salt-works  on  the  Lac 
Salin  d'Arzew,  or  El-Mellaha.  The  harbour,  naturally  one  of  the  best  and 
most  sheltered  in  Algeria,  but  as  yet  little  used,  has  been  improved  since 
1906.  From  here  chiefly  alt'a  (p.  1711  is  exported  to  Great  Britain  and 
Germany. 

Prom  Damesme  the  train  runs  to  thi  S.E.,  close  to  the  shore. 
88  M.    St.  Leu     L77  ft. ;    Eot.  de  L'Europe).     To  the  S.E.  of  the 
village  of  St.  Leu,  and  1  -M.  from  the  station,  is  the  Berber 
of  Bettiuua,  near  which  are  the  scanty  ruins  of  Partus  Magnus, 
the  only  Roman  settlement  on  the  bay  of  Arzew. 

3472  M.  Port-aux-Poules  (Etablissement  Thermal),  with  sul- 
phur-baths, a  sea-bathing  place  in  summer.  The  train  skirts  the 
narrow  strip  of  sand-hills  and  passes  the  mouth  of  the  Macta. 

Baedeker's  Mediterranean.  13 


200     Route  32.  MASCARA.  From  Oran 

37  M.  La  Macta,  a  village  at  the  N.  end  of  the  Marais  de  la 
Macta,  or  swamps  of  the  river-plain  of  the  Sig  (p.  206)  and  the 
Habra,  very  malarious  in  summer,  is  connected  by  a  branch-line 
with  (7>/2  M.)  La  Stidia,  a  village  founded  by  German  peasants 
in  1844,  and  with  (IS1/,,  M.)  Mostaganem  (p.  207). 

The  train  now  runs  inland,  past  the  E.  margin  of  the  morasses, 
to  (48'/2  M.)  Debrousseville,  in  the  broad  Plaine  de  V Habra.  The 
villnge  belongs  to  the  Domaine  de  V Habra  et  de  la  Macta,  the 
largest  estate  in  Algeria,  watered  by  a  network  of  cuttings  (276  M. 
in  length)  from  the  reservoir  of  the  Oued  Fergoug  (see  below). 
Since  the  failure  of  two  private  companies  the  estate  has  been 
owned  by  the  Credit  Foncier  de  France.  Of  its  70,000  acres 
44,000  are  pasture-land,  and  the  rest  is  devoted  to  grain  and  fruit. 
Its  headquarters  are  at  La  Ferme-Blanche,  near  the  railway. 

At  (55^2  M.)  Perregaux  we  cross  the  Oran-Algiers  line  (p.  206). 

Ascending  the  valley  of  the  Habra,  here  called  Oued  el- Ham- 
mam,  ('bath-river'),  we  now  penetrate  the  Beui  Chougrane  Mts., 
the  N.  marginal  chain  of  the  Tell  Atlas.  On  the  left,  just  before 
(61x/2  M.)  Barrage,  lies  the  ^Barrage  de  Perrfyaux  or  de  VOued 
Fergoug,  the  largest  reservoir  in  Algeria,  which  irrigates  some 
90,000  acres  of  land.  The  embankment  is  550  yds.  long,  130  ft. 
high,  and  from  130  ft.  thick  at  the  bottom  to  12x/2  ft.  at  the  top. 
The  reservoir  once  contained  33  million  tons  of  water,  but  the 
quantity  is  constantly  being  diminished  by  the  deposits  of  the  stream. 

6772  M.  Dublineau  (443  ft.).  78  M.  Bou-Hanifia  is  the  station 
for  the  small  baths  of  Hammam  Bou-Hanifia,  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Habra,  2l/2  M.  to  the  S.W.  (Bath  Hotel).  The  eight  saline 
springs  (136°  Fahr.)  are  the  Aquae  Sirenses  of  antiquity. 

86  M.  Tizi  or  Thizi  (1490  ft.;  Rail.  Restaur.)  in  the  Plaine, 
d'Eghris,  a  lofty  and  fertile  tract  between  the  N.  lateral  chain  and 
the  main  range  of  the  Tell  Atlas. 

Branch  Line  (772  M.,  in  ca.  »/8  hr.)  from  Tizi  to  Mascara  (1903  ft. ; 
Hot.  Bourelly,  Rue  de  Dalmatie,  R.  2>/2>  B.  1,  dej.  2V2,  omn.  1/2  "«,  quite 
good;  Hot.  du  Luxembourg,  Rue  Victor -Hugo;  Cafe  de  la  Brasserie, 
Place  Gambetta;  pop.  22,930),  beautifully  situated  on  a  chain  of  hills  on 
the  N.  margin  of  (he  Eghris  plain.  This  was  the  capital  of  the  beylic 
of  Oran  in  1701-92.  and  in  1832-41  was  the  residence  and  chief  stronghold 
of  Abd  el-Kader  (p.  221).  The  chief  quarter  of  the  town,  with  the  Place 
Gambetta  as  its  centre,  has  a  Mosque  (18th  cent.)  in  the  Place  Nationale, 
and  a  Beylic  (now  military  offices),  built  by  Mohammed  el-Kebir  (p.  178), 
in  the  street  of  that  name.  This  quarter  is  separated  by  the  ravine  of 
the  Oued  Toudman,  now  a  public  park,  from  the  spacious  Place  de 
l'Argoub  (market  on  Thurs.  and  Prid.)  and  from  the  barracks  quarter. 
Outside  the  Porte  d'Oran,  the  W.  gate,  we  have  a  delightful  view.  Out- 
side the  Bab-Ali,  the  N.  gate,  lies  the  Mohammedan  quarter  of  that 
name  (where  burnouses  are  woven).    Mascara  is  famed  for  its  wine. 

At  (9372  M.)  Thiersville  (1601  ft.)  the  train  crosses  a  range 
of  hills  to  the  stony  table-land  of  Guerdjoum  (much  overgrown 
with  dwarf-palms).    Beyond  (102V2  M.)  Oued-Taria  (1618  ft.)  it 


to  Beni-Ounif.  SAIDA.  32.  Route.      201 

crosses  the  brook  of  that  name,  the  chief  feeder  of  the  Habra,  and 
at  (110l/j  M.)  Charrier  (1792  ft.),  in  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Oued 
Sa'ida,  reaches  the  main  chain  of  the  Tell  Atlas.  122  M.  LesEaux- 
Chaudes,  Arabic  Hammdm  Ouled-Khaled,  with  saline  springs 
(113°  Fahr.) ;  126y2  M.  Nazereg  (2625  ft.). 

129V-2  M.  Sa'ida  (2746  ft.;  Hot.  Lugan  or  Riu,  in  the  market- 
place, 10  min.  from  the  station,  R.  2,  D.  3,  pens.  7,  omn.  lfaii.; 
Hot.  Vergnon;  Hot.  de  la  Paix;  pop.  8100),  the  southmost  town  in 
the  Tell  Atlas  of  Oran,  founded  in  1854,  lies  in  an  uninteresting 
region.  In  front  of  the  Mairie  rises  an  imposing  Monument  (1910) 
to  the  soldiers  of  the  Foreign  Legion  who  fell  in  S.  Oran.  From 
the  Place  du  Marche  Arabe  (market  on  Mon.),  where  the  Mosque  is 
situated,  the  Rue  Thiers  and  the  Rue  Nationale  lead  to  the  S.W.  to 
the  high-lying  barracks  of  the  Foreign  Legion  (p.  186).  Above  the 
market-place  lies  the  Native  Quarter. 

The  train  next  passes  (on  the  left)  the  scanty  ruins  of  the  last 
Fortress  built  by  Abd  el-Kader  affording  a  view  of  Sa'ida  as  we  look 
back,  and  ascends  between  barren  hills  to  the  table-land  on  the  S. 
margin  of  the  Tell  Atlas.  136l/2  M.  Ain-el-Hadjar  (3360  ft.;  'rock- 
spring'),  a  village  of  1500  inhab.  in  a  fertile  well-watered  district, 
with  a  military  prison. 

On  the  bleak  tableland,  between  the  region  of  the  Hassasna 
on  the  N.E.  and  the  Maalif  Plain  on  the  S.W.,  we  pass  several 
small  stations.  157  M.  Kralfallah  (3638  ft.),  with  great  stacks 
of  esparto  grass,  was  the  scene  of  the  massacre  of  the  Spaniards  at 
the  hands  of  Bou-Amama  (p.  222)  in  1881. 

The  train  now  descends  to  the  Hauts- Plateaux  (p.  169),  where 
an  occasional  caravan  or  a  few  grazing  camels  only  are  seen,  while 
the  vegetation  is  limited  to  saline  plants  and  patches  of  esparto 
grass  (p.  171).  166  M.  El-Btida  (3497  ft.),  the  first  fortified 
station.  171  M.  Modzbah  (3471  ft.),  with  its  great  stacks  of  esparto 
grass  and  the  goods-station  of  a  branch-line  to  (22  M.)  Marhoum, 
used  solely  for  the  esparto  traffic. 

192  M.  Le  Kreider  (3241  ft.;  Hot.  de  Paris,  R.  2,  dej.  V/2, 
D.  2  fr.),  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Chott  ech-Chergui  (p.  169).  com- 
manded by  a  small  fort  on  the  hill  above  it,  was  founded  in  1881 
as  a  military  base  of  defence  against  the  partisans  of  Bou-Amama 
The  barracks,  in  the  neo-Moorish  style,  are  surrounded  with  plant- 
ations which  are  watered  by  means  of  a  wind-pump. 

We  at  length  reach  the  salt-marshes,  pass  between  low  sand- 
hills, and  are  carried  through  the  masses  of  mud  by  means  of  a  short 
embankment  to  (201  M.)  Bou-Ktoub  or  Bou-Guetoub  (3264  ft.), 
the  starting-point  of  a  road  to  Geryville  (66  M.;  diligence).  We 
then  mount  gradually  to  the  N.  spurs  of  the  Sahara  Atlas  (p.  170). 
Stations  uninteresting. 

13* 


202     Route  32  TIOUT.  From,  Oran 

242  M.  Meehdria  (3806  ft.;  Hot.  des  Voyageurs;  pop.  700), 
at  the  foot  of  the  Jebel  Antar  range,  contains  barracks  for  convicts 
of  the  foreign  legion  and  a  small  mosque.  —  The  train  again  traverses 
the  Hauts-Plateaux.  To  the  left  rises  the  distant  Jebel  el-Malha. 
Near  (2621/,,  M.)  Na&ma  (3825  ft.)  is  the  salt-lake  of  that  name, 
not  visible  from  the  train. 

384  M.  Mekalis  (4311  ft.),  the  highest  point  on  the  line,  with 
a  few  fruit-trees.  The  train  now  crosses  the  watershed  between  the 
Hauts-Plateaux  and  the  Sahara,  and  descends  into  the  Faidjct  el- 
Betoum,  a  broad  valley  so  named  after  its  terebinths  (Pistaeia 
Terebintlms  L.;  Arabic  b'tom  or  betoum).  The  valley  is  flanked 
on  the  E.  by  Jebel  Aissa  (7336  ft.),  and  on  the  W.  by  Jebel  Mor- 
ghad  (7008  ft.),  the  two  highest  of  the  Montagues  des  Ksour,  as 
the  Sahara  Atlas  is  usually  called  here.  Beyond  (299  M.)  Tirkount 
appear  in  the  foreground  Jebel  Melcter  (6762  ft.),  with  a  Poste 
Optique  or  signal-station,  used  at  the  time  of  the  conflicts  with 
Bou-Amama,  and  the  long  chain  of  sand-hills  near  Ain-Sefra. 

305y2  M.  Ain-Sefra  (3577  ft. ;  Hot.  de  France  or  Plasse,  R.  3, 
dej.  3,  D.  3x/v  f i'. ;  Hot.  des  Voyageurs,  both  in  the  chief  square, 
very  plain;  Cafe  Bieuvenu),  not  founded  until  1881,  with  a  strong 
garrison  aud  about  1400  inhab.,  is  grandly  situated  in  a  broad 
valley  between  Jebel  Aissa  and  Jebel  Mektcr.  The  village,  lying  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Oued  Ain-Sefra  ('yellow  spring'),  was  devast- 
ated by  an  inundation  in  1904.  A  market  (Mon.)  is  held  here  for 
the  Berbers  of  the  environs,  who  still  speak  Tamazirt  (p.  94).  An 
iron  bridge  crosses  to  the  Barracks,  a  neo-Moorish  building. 
Through  the  Berber  Village  (ksar,  p.  281)  behind  the  barracks  we 
may  climb  in  3/4  hr.  to  the  top  of  the  reddish-brown  *Sand  Hills, 
formed  by  disintegration  of  the  rock,  which  give  the  landscape  its 
very  peculiar  character,  and  whose  shifting  sands  threaten  to  over- 
whelm Ain-Sefra  in  spite  of  the  sheltering  plantations. 

The  famous  oasis  of  Tiout,  lO'/a  M.  to  the  E.  of  A'in-Sefra  and  3  M. 
to  the  N.  of  the  railway-station  of  Tiout  (p.  203),  is  a  favourite  goal  of  tour- 
ists. A  horse  or  mule  should  be  ordered  in  good  time,  cheapest  at  the  'Sub- 
division' (2  fr. ;  attendant  lVa-2  fr.);  the  traveller  may  shorten  the  long  ride 
by  returning  from  Tiout  by  train.  The  track  leads  through  the  broad, 
shadeless  valley,  some  way  from  the  brook  Ain-Sefra;  we  have  a  fine 
retrospect  of  A'in-Sefra  and  its  sand-hills.  We  pass  several  red-sand- 
stone rocks.  About  halfway  the  rail,  station  of  Tiout  and  the  oasis 
beyond  it  come  in  sight. 

In  this  little  oasis  (34-15  ft.),  one  of  the  highest  palm-oases  in  the 
Atlas,  lies  an  interesting  Berber  Village  (pop.  400).  The  low-lying  gardens, 
protected  by  high  mud-walls,  yield  fruit  and  veget  .bles  under  the  shade 
of  the  well-kept  date-palms.  Their  irrigation  is  provided  by  a  small 
Reservoir  to  the  N.  of  the  village,  a  charming  spot,  where  we  may  rest 
under  the  palms  on  the  bank  of  the  brook.  A  few  minutes'  walk  from 
this  point,  to  the  N.E.  of  the  village,  rises  a  reddish  rock,  on  which, 
about  65  ft.  above  the  valley,  protected  by  a  grating,  are  traced  figures 
of  animals  and  hunters  (archers),  a  prehistoric  curiosity,  called  the  Hadjra 
Mektouba,  with  later  Libyan-Berber  and  Arabic  inscriptions. 


to  Beni-Ounif.  BENI-OUNIF  &»  Route.     203 

About  8  M.  to  theW.  of  AYn-Sefra,  on  the  road  to  A in-Sflssi fa  (4176  ft.) 
and  the  Moroccan  oasis  of  Ich  (3721  ft.),  is  the  copper-mine  of  Hasi- 
ben-Hi  Jjir. 

Beyond  AYn-Sefra  the  train  (with  the  engine  now  at  the  other 
end)  follows  the  valley  of  that  name  and  rounds  the  Jebel  Mekter 
group  in  a  long  curve  to  the  E.  Beyond  (312:/2  M.)  Tiout  (oasis, 
p.  202.  visible  on  the  left)  it  descends  to  the  S.,  lastly  through  masses 
of  dchris  and  rock-cuttings,  to  (321  M.)  Ain-cl-Hadjadj .  We  then 
pass  through  a  defile  between  Jebel  Mekter  and  Jebel  Djara.  To 
the  left,  framed  by  rocks,  lies  a  low  reddish-brown  sand-hill. 

Farther  on,  to  the  left,  between  Jebel  Djara  and  Jebel  Bou- 
Leghfad  (5545  ft.),  opens  the  broad  mountain-valley  of  the  Rou'iba, 
which  at  (328  M.)  Rou'iba  joins  the  AYn-Sefra  to  form  the  Oued 
en-Namous.  The  train  turns  to  the  S.W.,  at  the  S.  base  of  Jebel 
Mekter,  a  little  to  the  right  of  the  palm-oasis  of  Moghrar-Tahtdni 
(2710  ft.;  'lower  Moghrar'),  famed  for  its  prehistoric  rock-draw- 
ings. 340  M.  Moghrar-Foulcdni  ('upper  Moghrar'),  beyond  which 
we  pass  its  *Falm  Oasis,  overlooked  by  a  kubba  on  a  low  hill. 

We  next  pass  through  the  Gorges  de  Moghrar,  a  sandstone 
ravine  full  of  rocky  debris,  into  El-Fatdja,  a  valley  at  the  S.  base 
of  the  Mir  el-Jebel  (6790  ft.)  and  Jebel  Mezi  (6988  ft.).  359  M 
Djenien-bou-Resg  (3254  ft.)  has  a  Redoute,  or  fortified  camp  (on 
the  left),  in  the  style  of  a  Roman  camp,  a  small  palm-oasis,  and  a 
pretty  military  club  in  the  Moorish  style,  shaded  with  palms. 

The  train  enters  the  valley  of  the  Oued  Dermel,  one  of  the 
sources  of  the  Oued  Zousfana.  In  the  distance  we  sight  Jebel  Bent 
Smir  and  Jebel  el-Ma'iz  (p.  204).  An  iron  bridge  carries  the  train 
across  the  Dermel,  usually  dry,  to  the  ruins  of  (379  M.)  Duveyrier, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Oued  Douis,  which  has  been  deserted  since  an 
inundation  in  1904.  We  then  descend  between  low  ranges  of  hills, 
Jebel  Tamednata  (2953  ft.)  on  the  left,  on  the  margin  of  the  desert, 
and  Djermdn-Tahtdni  and  Jebel  el-JIdimer  on  the  right,  to  the 
Zousfana  (beyond  rises  the  old  fort  of  Campo),  where  the  palms 
of  Beni-Ounif  become  visible. 

396  M.  Beni-Ounif  de  Figuig  (2707  ft.;  Hot.  du  Sahara, 
B.  l1^,  dej.  3,  D.  3lj2,  pens.  12  fr.,  plain  but  good;  advisable  to 
secure  rooms  beforehand  by  telegraph;  1300  inhab.),  founded  in 
1903,  as  being  then  the  terminus  of  the  railway,  adjacent  to  a  ksar, 
or  Berber  village  (at  ouinifi),  and  a  Camp  Militaire,  is  now  a  free 
mart,  rapidly  growing  in  importance.  Its  total  trade  with  Morocco 
and  the  Tuat  oases  amounts  to  about  4  million  francs.  The  few  and 
quiet  streets,  planted  with  palms,  present  a  marked  contrast  to  those 
of  Biskra,  which  is  now  overran  with  tourists.  The  white  domed 
building  near  the  railway-station  serves  at  once  as  a  church,  a 
town-hall,  and  a  law-court.    Behind  it  is  a  fondouk  (p.  281). 

The  only  sights  are  the  Zaou'ia  Sidi  Slimdii  ben-Bou-Smaha, 


204     Route  32.  FIGUIG. 

the  chief  sanctuary  of  the  Ouled  Sidi-Cheikh,  a  Berber  tribe  of  S. 
Oran,  and  the  Ksar  (p.  281),  a  poor  village  inhabited  by  Harratin 
(p.  94),  at  the  back  of  the  barracks  quarter,  where  the  mode  of 
irrigating  a  palm-oasis  may  be  observed. 

Beni-Ounif,  situated  in  a  rocky  wilderness,  commanded  on  the 
N.  and  W.  by  jagged  and  fissured  mountains,  Jebel  Beni  Smir 
(6857  ft.),  Jebel  el-Maiz  (6037  ft.),  and  Jebel  Grouz  (5328  ft.),  and 
separated  from  Figuig  by  a  chain  of  low  barren  hills,  possesses  to 
the  full  the  fascination  of  a  Sahara  landscape  (p.  172).  The  most 
striking  view,  especially  towards  evening,  of  Beni-Ounif,  the  palm- 
oasis,  and  the  village  of  Figuig,  as  well  as  of  the  spurs  of  the 
Sahara  Atlas,  is  obtained  from  Jebel  Melius  (3986  ft.),  a  spur  of 
Jebel  Grouz,  2  hrs.  to  the  N.  of  the  little  town.  For  this  ascent,  and 
for  all  the  longer  excursions,  travellers  must  procure  an  escort 
of  Cavaliers  du  Maghzen  (p.  390),  who  usually  provide  horses  for 
the  journey  (horse  for  half-a-day  2V2-3,  whole  day  5  fr. ;  fee  to  each 
'cavalier'  2fr.).  Application  for  the  escort  has  to  be  made  at  the 
Bureau  Arabe  (p.  174)  in  the  Camp  Militaire. 

*Figuig,  to  the  N.  of  Beni-Ounif,  first  visited  by  a  European, 
Gerh.  Rohlfs,  in  1862,  is  the  largest  and  most  fertile  oasis  in  the 
Sahara  Atlas  of  Oran  (containing  about  400,000  date-palms). 
According  to  the  treaty  of  1845  it  belongs  to  Morocco,  but  only 
nominally  since  its  bombardment  by  French  troops  in  1903.  From 
the  earliest  times  the  oasis  has  been  in  high  repute.  It  embraces 
seven  villages  (ksiir),  in  three  groups,  the  Feghiha  castra  tria  of 
antiquity.  In  the  early  16th  cent.  Leo  Africanus  extols  the  artistic 
skill  of  the  inhabitants;  their  industries,  however,  are  now  limited 
to  the  weaving  of  burnouses  and  carpets  (similar  to  the  knot-worked 
carpets  of  Fez)  and  to  the  manufacture  of  small  articles  in  leather. 
The  place  is  inhabited  by  Berbers,  besides  a  large  number  of  Jews, 
the  Harratin,  and  a  few  negro  slaves.  Tamazirt  (p.  94)  is  their  chief 
language,  but  Arabic  also  is  spoken  at  places. 

The  S.  margin  of  the  oasis,  and  its  boundary  towards  Beni-Ounif, 
is  formed  by  a  range  of  hills  running  from  Jebel  Melias  (see  above), 
W.  to  E.,  to  Jebel  el-Hdimer  (p.  203),  and  crossed  by  four  passes, 
the  Col  ides  Moudjdhdine,  the  Col  de  la  Juive  (Arabic  Teidet  el- 
Ih&dia),  the  Col  de  Zendga,  and  the  Col  de  Taghla  or  Tarla. 
The  shortest  route  is  via  the  Col  de  Zenaga,  commonly  called  El- 
IDieneg  ('the  pass').  By  this  route  the  whole  excursion,  there  and 
back,  takes  5-6  hrs.;  but,  time  permitting,  it  is  preferable  to  go 
by  the  Col  de  Taghla,  watered  by  the  Zousfana,  and  bounded  on  the 
E.  by  the  sombre  rocks  of  Jebel  Sidi -Youssef  (3484  ft.),  and  to 
return  by  the  Col  de  Zenaga  or  the  Col  de  la  Juive,  a  full  day's 
expedition.  The  ascent  of  one  of  the  hills  adjoining  these  passes 
(stout  boots  advisable)  iu  the  company  of  an  escort  is  to  be  recom- 
mended on  account  of  the  fine  view. 


FIGU1G.  *»•  Route.     205 

The  route  over  a  stony  plain  to  the  (*/2  hr.)  Zendga  Pass 
crosses  the  Oued  Melias,  the  bed  of  which  is  generally  dry,  near 
the  frontier  of  Morocco,  indicated  by  heaps  of  stones.  The  vege- 
tation here  is  limited  to  a  few  thorn-bushes  —  jujubes  (Zizyphus 
vulgaris;  Arabic  sedra;  French  jujubier)  and  the  prickly  Anabasis 
arietoldea  (Arabic  ajerem),  the  'chou-fleur  du  Sahara'  of  the  sol- 
diers, which  is  much  used  in  this  part  of  the  Sahara  as  fuel.  At 
the  entrance  to  the  pass,  about  200  yds.  in  breadth,  we  may  observe 
to  the  left,  on  the  stony  slope  of  Jebel  Zendga  (3435  ft.),  several 
graffiti,  or  rudely  engraved  sketches  on  the  rock  (comp.  p.  202), 
hut  not  very  distinguishable  under  the  black  patina.  Beyond  the 
first  palms  of  the  oasis,  at  the  exit  of  the  pass,  rise  the  KuLba, 
Sidi-Fedel,  surrounded  with  numerous  votive  stones  (kerkours, 
rg-yems),  and  the  Haoiiita  Sidi-Tifour,  an  open  walled  rectangle. 
We  have  here  a  good  survey  of  the  lower  part  of  the  oasis,  with 
the  village  of  Zenaga  (p.  20(i)  and  numerous  bordjs  (round  watch- 
towers),  backed  by  the  Jebel  Grouz  range,  while  on  the  edge  of  the 
plateau  of  the  six  upper  villages  gleams  the  conspicuous  Kubba 
Sidi  ben-Aissa  I'Aredj. 

Our  route  now  leads  to  the  N.E.  across  the  barren,  dazzling 
white  Plaine  de  Bagdbdd  (2818  ft.).  We  may  first  visit  El-Ham- 
mdmin,  the  two  E.  villages,  Hammdm-Tahtdni ,  on  the  slope  of 
the  high  plateau,  and  Hammrim-Fovkdni  (2950  ft.),  where  Bou- 
Amama  was  encamped  in  1900-2  (p.  222);  but  it  is  more  usual  to 
go  direct  to  the  four  W.  villages,  at  first  through  small  fields  of 
barley  and  vegetable -gardens,  and  then  between  the  high  mud- 
walls  of  the  palm-gardens. 

We  ascend  through  a  picturesque  defile  on  the  rocky  and  fissured 
slope  of  the  upper  plateau,  whence  the  water  flows  down  in  open 
cuttings  (see  p.  94)  to  the  village  of  El-Ma'iz.  We  note  here  the 
quaint  architecture  and  the  lanes  arched  over  with  palm -wood 
beams,  under  which  the  natives  take  their  siesta  on  stone  benches 
in  the  hot  season.  Some  of  the  little  houses  of  the  Mellah,  or 
Jewish  quarter,  are  owned  by  Morocco  leather-workers. 

Through  the  contiguous  village  of  Ouled- Slimdn  we  pass  to 
EL-OuDAoniR  (Berber  dt  a'addi),  the  largest  village  in  Figuig  next 
to  Zenaga.  Since  1902  this  has  been  the  seat  of  a  Moroccan  Amel, 
or  governor,  who  with  his  few  soldiers  occupies  the  dilapidated 
Ddr  el-Be'ida  ('white  house')  on  the  barren  H'sen,  as  the  upper 
plateau  is  called  (2940-3000  ft.).  The  mud-built  houses  of  the 
village,  mostly  consisting  of  two  or  more  stories,  are  overlooked  by 
the  new  square  minaret  of  the  Chief  Mosque,  where  the  governor 
attends  the  Friday  prayers.  A  second  mosque  has  a  very  old  and 
graceful  octagonal  minaret.  The  Prison  (visitors  admitted),  the 
tents  of  the  Amouriat,  the  girls  of  the  nomad  tribe  of  the  Amour, 
whose  habits  resemble  those  of  the  Ouled  Nail  (p.  215),  and  the 


206     Route  88.  PERREGAUX.  From  Oran 

Mellah,  where  the  escort  prepare  tea  in  their  own  peculiar  man- 
ner, also  may  be  visited  with  interest. 

To  the  W.  of  El-Ofidaghir  is  the  basin  of  the  Ain-Tzadert ,  a 
spring  which  supplies  Zenaga  also  and  has  often  given  rise  to  bitter 
quarrels  between  the  two  villages.  From  the  massive  Bordj  be- 
longing to  the  villagers  of  El-Ofidaghir,  adjoining  the  basin,  we 
obtain  a  splendid  *Panorama  of  the  oasis  and  the  girdle  of  moun- 
tains around  it.  At  our  feet  lies  El-Abid  fdt  enne'i),  with  its  many 
towers,  the  westmost  village,  now  dilapidated  and  partly  deserted. 

On  our  way  back,  passing  the  underground  Ain-Meslout,  with 
two  vaulted  baths  (hammam),  we  come  suddenly  to  the  precipitous 
brink  of  the  plateau  (here  about  100  ft.  high),  where  we  enjoy  a 
beautiful  view  of  the  forest  of  palms  around  Zenaga. 

The  village  of  Zenaga  (Berber  iznd'in),  V/t  M.  to  the  S.  of  El- 
Ofldaghir,  and  4'/4  M.  to  the  N.  of  Beni-Ounif,  with  its  one-storied 
mud-built  houses,  its  massive  towers,  its  mellah,  and  many  vaulted 
lanes,  has  for  its  centre  the  chief  mosque  and  the  square  in  front 
of  it.  A  smaller  mosque  lies  outside  the  village.  The  large  basin 
is  fed  by  underground  conduits  (p.  94)  from  the  Ain-Tzadert. 


33.  Prom  Oran  to  Algiers. 

2G2Vo  M.  Railway.  Day-train,  with  1st  and  2nd  cl.  saloon  carriages 
and  'wagon-restaurant'  (dej.  4,  D.  4'/2  fr.),  in  HV2  hrs.  (fares  35  fr.  5,  26  fr. 
5c,  19  fr.);  night-express  in  9:il4  hrs.  ('lit-salon'  12  fr.  more  than  1st  cl. 
fare:  sleeping-carriage  12  fr.  extra).  Scenery  as  far  as  Affreville  uninter- 
esting. The  best  places  for  breaking  the  journey  are  Miliaria,  Hammam 
Rhira,  and  Blida.  At  Perrigaux  this  line  is  crossed  by  the  line  from 
Oran  to  Damesme  and  Beni-Ounif  de  Figuig  (R.  32). 

From  Oran  to  (16  M.)  Ste.  Barbe-du-Tlelat,  see  pp.  185,  186. 
Our  train  now  crosses  the  Tldlat  (p.  186)  and  the  flat  saddle  between 
the  Tell  Atlas  and  (left)  the  chain  of  Jtbel  Djira  (1083  ft.).  On 
the  S.  slope  of  these  hills  lies  the  Foret  de  Mouley  -  Ismael,  an 
expanse  of  11,000  acres  of  underwood,  where  Sultan  Mulai  Ismail 
of  Morocco  (p.  96)  was  signally  defeated  by  the  Bey  of  Mascara 
(p.  200)  in  1707. 

32  M.  St.  Denis-du-Sig  (177  ft.;  Hot.  du  Louvre;  pop.  11,900) 
lies  in  the  fruitful  plain  of  the  Sig  (called  Mekerra  in  its  upper 
course,  p.  186).  The  environs  are  watered  by  the  great  Barrage  du 
Sig.  Cattle-market  on  Sundays  ('marche  arabe').  — 38  M.  Bou- 
Henni  {Habra;  66  ft.),  at  the  foot  of  the  Beni  Chougrane  Mts. 
(p.  200),  not  far  from  the  marshes  of  the  Macta  (p.  200).  Melcns 
are  much  cultivated  here.  —  The  train  crosses  the  Habra  (p.  200). 

47^2  M.  Perregaux  (148  ft. ;  H6t.  des  Colonies,  Rue  de  Mosta- 
ganem,  R.  2>/2,  B.  1/g_fr.,  quite  good;  Hot.  des  Voyageurs,  near  the 
station  for  Beni-Ounif;  pop.  10,100,  largely  Spanish),  is  a  pleasant 


to  Algiers.  MOSTAGANEM.  33.  Route.     207 

town  with  a  pretty  Jardin  Public  and  a  detachment  of  the  Foreign 
Legion  (p.  180).    Wednesday  market. 

Railway  to  Oran  via  Damesme  (Arzew),  and  to  Beni-Oinrif,  see  R.  32. 

To  the  left  stretches  the  Plaine  de  I'Habra  (p.  200) ;  in  the 
distance  rise  the  hills  near  La  Stidia  (p.  200)  and  Mostaganem 
(see  below).  Beyoud  (551/,,  M.)  Nouvion-Oued-Malah  (420  ft.)  the 
train  crosses  the  hill-region  between  the  main  chain  of  the  Tell 
Atlas  and  Jebel  Bd-Hacel  (see  below),  and  at  (6572  M.)  L'Hillil 
(410  ft.)  enters  the  Plaine  de  la  Mina,  adjoining  the  plain  of  the 
Chelif  (p.  208),  one  of  the  hottest  regions  of  Algeria  in  summer. 

A  Road  (12'/>  M.;  omn.  in  winter  at  1.30,  in  summer  at  8.30)  leads  to 
the  S.  from  L'Hillil  to  the  interesting  and  purely  Mohammedan  hill-town  of 
Kala-a  (pop.  4800;  Sat.  market),  once  famous  for  its  carpet  industry. 

We  cross  the  Mina,  2:/2  M.  below  the  Barrage  de  la  Mina, 
which  waters  some  25,000  acres  of  land. 

77Va  M.  Relizane  (289  ft.;  Rail.  Restaur.;  Hot.  de  la  Paix; 
Hot.  de  Paris,  R.  2,  B.  »/S)  dej.  2,  D.  272,  pens.  7  fr.;  pop.  9000, 
half  Mohammedan)  is  a  small  town  amidst  rich  orchards.  Our  line 
is  crossed  here  by  the  Mostaganem  and  Tiaret  line. 

From  Relizane  to  Mostaganem,  47>/2  M.,  railway  in  23/4-3  hrs.  (fare 
6  fr.  10  or  4  fr.  55  c).  The  train  crosses  the  Mina  before  (7V2M.)  Bel-Hacel, 
and  then  in  a  long  bend  to  the  N.E.  skirts  Jebel  Bel-Hacel  (1694  ft.).  It 
next  turns  sharply  to  the  S.W.  to  (18  M.)  Mekalia,  crosses  the  hills  of 
the  Foret  de  Laktoube  (1552  ft.),  affording  fine  views  of  the  Chelif  valley 
and  of  the  Dahra  range  (p.  208),  and  then  descends  to  (27'/a  M.)  Oued-el- 
Kheir.  From  (34'/a  M.)  Ain-Tedelcs  (657  ft.;  Hot.  Bellocq;  pop.  2900, 
chiefly  Mohammedan),  surrounded  with  olive-groves  and  orchards,  a  road 
leads  to  (4'/2  M.)  Pont  du  Oie'lif  (66  ft.)  which,  situated  near  the  ancient 
Roman  town  of  Qinza,  is  named  from  the  bridge  built  by  Spanish  prisoners 
from  Mazagran  (see  below)  and  rebuilt  in  1850.  Beyond  (45  M.)  Pelissier 
we  pass  through  the  charming  Valise  des  Jardins. 

47'/.2  M.  Mostaganem  (341  ft. ;  Grand-Hotel,  near  the  Place  de  la 
Republique;  Hot.  du  Louvre;  Hot.  de  la  Gare;  pop.  22,000,  incl.  10,900 
Mohammedans  and  1100  Jews),  a  seaport  on  the  E.  shore  of  the  Bay  of 
Arzew  (p.  199),  situated  on  an  old  coast-terrace  rising  abruptly  from  the 
sea  (perhaps  the  site  of  the  Roman  Murvstuga),  owes  its  foundation, 
under  the  name  of  Bordj  el-Mehal,  to  the  Almoravide  Yusuf  ibn  Teshu- 
fin  (p.  95).  It  is  the  oldest  garrison  of  the  Tirailleurs  Indigenes,  a 
native  regiment  formed  in  1847,  and  well  known  as  Turcos  in  the  Franco- 
German  war  (1870-1).  The  main  quarter  of  the  town,  with  the  station, 
the  fine  Jardin  Public,  the  Place  de  la  Republique,  a  fine  point  of  view, 
the  Market,  and  the  Chief  Mosque,  founded  by  the  Merinide  Abu'l-Hasen 
Ali  (p.  188)  in  1342,  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Ain-Sefra,  fully  «/»  M. 
above  the  harbour  quarter.  On  the  lofty  right  bank  of  the  ravine  are  a 
second  European  quarter  and  (outside  the  Porte  desMedjes)  the  interesting 
Mohammedan  suburb  of  Tidjit.  The  Harbour,  now  choked  with  sand  and 
inadequately  protected  from  N.  and  N.W.  winds  by  two  piers,  lies  between 
two  small  tongues  of  land,  La  Salamandre  on  the  S.W.,  and  Earouba 
(266  ft.),  with  its  sacred  grove,  on  the  N.E.  —  The  railway  from  Mosta- 
ganem to  La  Stidia  and  La  Macta  (p.  200)  passes  (2  M.)  Mazagran  (459  ft.; 
H6t.  Pujol),  old-Berber  Tamazaran,  where  the  Spaniards  sustained  a 
severe  defeat  in  1558,  and  where  a  small  French  force  in  1840  repelled  the 
attacks  of  15,000  adherents  of  Abd  el-Kader  (p.  221;  monument). 

From  Rfuzane  to  Tiaret,  75  M.,  railway  in  4s/4  hrs.  (fare  9  fr.  65 
or  7  fr.  25  0.).    Scenery  unattractive.    Beyond  (5>/a  M.)  Oued-Khelloug  the 


208     Route  33.  ORLEANS VILLE.  From  Oran 

train  follows  the  course  of  the  Mina  (p.  207),  which  separates  the  Beni 
Chovgrane  (p.  200)  from  the  Ouarsenis  Mts.  (p.  209).  12  M.  Sidi- Mohammed- 
Benaouda  (417  ft.),  noted  for  the  strange  cult  of  the  local  saint  of  that 
name,  in  whose  zaoui'a  sacred  lions  were  once  kept;  the  loftily  situated 
kubba,  a  great  resort  of  pilgrims,  is  guarded  by  negroes  who  are  said  to 
be  descendants  of  a  servant  of  the  saint  (popular  festivals  in  Aug.  and 
Oct.).  —  27  M.  Uzes-le-Dnc  or  Fortassa  (840  ft.).  —  54  M.  Mdchdra-Sfa- 
Prevost-Paradol.  Near  Mechera-Sfa,  on  the  Mina,  are  two  cemeteries, 
with  several  dolmens,  of  the  4th  cent.,  the  sole  relics  of  an  ancient  Berber 
town.  —  69  M.  Takdempt,  with  a  ruined  arsenal  of  Abd  el-Kader. 

75  M.  Tiaret  (3577  ft.;  Hot.  d'Orient  or  Lecat;  Hot.  des  Colonies, 
E.  Vk-Z,  dej.  or  D.  Vlrfi,  pens.  4-6  fr.;  pop.  7200;  Mon.  market)  lies  on 
a  mountain-pass  not  far  from  the  fertile  Plateaux  du  Sersou,  on  the  S. 
margin  of  the  Tell  Atlas,  a  cold  but  healthy  site,  once  occupied  by  Tin- 
gartia,  the  capital  of  W.  Algeria  in  the  Byzantine  period.  New  Tiaret, 
the  capital  ot  the  Kharijite  sect  of  the  Ibadites  (p.  323),  probably  lay 
below  the  present  town,  in  the  direction  of  Takdempt.  —  About  halfway 
on  the  road  from  Tiaret  to  (35  M.)  Frenda,  among  the  hills  to  the  S.  of 
Tiaret,  are  the  *Djedar,  step-pyramids  in  the  style  of  the  'Tombeau  de 
la  Chretienne'  (p.  238),  but  on  square  foundations,  tombs  apparently  of 
forgotten  Christian  Berber  princes  of  the  6-7th  cent.,  composed  partly  of 
materials  from  5th  cent,  buildings.  Three  of  these,  all  in  a  very  ruinous 
condition,  are  on  Jebel  Hadjar;  ten,  including  the  largest  (52  by  49  yds.), 
lie  on  the  Colline  de  Ternaten,  3XI4  M.  farther  to  the  S. 

The  Algiers  Railway,  running  to  the  N.E.,  at  some  distance 
from  the  Sebkha  de  Relizane  or  de  Sidi  Dou  Chiane,  enters  the 
desolate  lower  plain  of  the  Chelif  (p.  215),  the  ancient  Chylimath 
(Arabic  Kelmitu).  98  M.  St.  Aime  or  Djidioma  (243  ft.),  with 
a  petroleum-refinery  for  the  oil-springs  of  Ain-Zeft  (Taghia),  lies 
on  the  Dahra,  the  coast-hills  to  the  N.  of  the  Chelif.  The  train 
crosses  the  Oued  Djidioma. 

104  M.  Inkermann  or  Oued-Riou  (263  ft. ;  Hot.  des  Voyageurs; 
Hot.  d'Inkermann;  pop.  5200,  of  whom  4200  are  Mohammedans), 
with  large  quarries  and  a  Wednesday  market. 

The  little  Berber  town  of  Mazovma,  18  M.  to  the  N.  of  Inkermann, 
on  a  branch  of  the  road  to  Renault,  superbly  situated,  the  capital  of  the 
W.  Algerian  beylic  before  Mascara  (p.  200),  is  one  of  the  quaintest  places 
in  the  Algerian  Tell  Atlas.  Home  industries  (burnouses,  haiks,  etc.)  are 
much  in  vogue.    Interesting  Thursday  market. 

The  train  crosses  the  Oued  Riou.  HO1^  M.  Le  Merdja,  the 
last  station  in  the  province  of  Oran. 

HT-lz  M.  Charon  or  Bou-Kader,  a  little  town  of  5200  inhab., 
almost  all  Mohammedans,  lies  in  the  province  of  Algiers  (Thurs. 
market).  On  a  low  hill,  2  M.  to  the  N.,  are  Roman  ruins,  called 
El-Aouna  by  the  natives.  At  Touchaid,  3  M.  to  the  S.W.,  is  a 
cavern  in  the  rock,  330  ft.  long,  consisting  of  a  number  of  low 
passages,  and  containing  huge  layers  of  bats'  guano.  The  Trou  du 
Diable,  4  M.  to  the  S.  of  Charon,  is  another  object  of  interest. 

We  cross  the  Oued  Sly,  with  its  barrage,  to  (122  M.)  Malakoff 
or  Oued- Sly,  and  then  pass  through  a  wood  of  Aleppo  pines  and 
carob-trees. 

13iy2M.  Orldansville  (410  ft.;  H6t.  du  Palais,  pens.  5  fr.; 
Hot.  des  Voyageurs;  pop.  4900,  of  whom  2300  are  Mohammedans), 


to  Algiers.  TENES.  S8.  Route.     209 

founded  in  1843  on  the  site  of  the  Koman  Castellum  Tingitanum, 
is  a  smiling  oasis,  irrigated  by  a  conduit  from  the  Chelif,  but  one 
of  the  hottest  places  in  Algeria  (maximum  12b1 /2"  Fahr.).  The  chief 
sight  is  the  early-Christian  Basilica  in  the  Place  de  la  Mosaique, 
discovered  in  1843,  and  recently  further  excavated.  It  was  built 
in  324,  and  is  the  oldest  Christian  church  in  Algeria.  The  found- 
ation walls  are  alone  preserved.  It  consisted  of  a  nave  and  double 
aisles,  without  a  transept,  with  two  entrances  from  the  outer  aisles 
and  a  rounded  W.  apse,  to  which  was  added  in  475  a  second  choir- 
recess  at  the  E.  end,  containing  the  tomb  of  Bishop  Reparatus.  Con- 
siderable fragments  of  the  mosaic  pavement  also  have  been  pre- 
served. The  town  has  also  a  Mosqtie  (1894)  and  a  Carpet  Making 
School.  The  Saturday  market  is  important.  From  the  N.  ramparts 
we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  Chelif  ravine  and  the  Dahra  Mts. 

A  Road  (railway  in  course  of  construction)  leads  from  Orleansville  to 
Tines  (33  M.;  diligence  in  6  hrs.,  at  2,  from  Tenes  at  6  p.m.).  It  crosses 
the  Chilif  and  beyond  the  suburb  of  La  Ferme,  hidden  among  trees, 
leads  through  a  eucalyptus  avenue,  and  then  to  the  N.W.  across  a  plain 
to  (8'/jM.l  Warnier  (394  ft.),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oued  Ouahran  Valley. 
Then  "to  the  N.,  through  the  Dahra  Mts.,  inhabited  almost  solely  by 
Berbers,  to  (17  M.)  Les  Trois-Palmiers  (525  ft.),  with  its  gypsum  quarries, 
and  across  the  (19'/«  M.)  Col  de  Kirba  (1476  ft.)  to  the  valley  of  the  Oued 
Attala  and  (30  M.)  Montenotte,  with  its  orchards  and  iron-mines.  32'/aM. 
Vieux-Te'nes,  picturesquely  situated  above  the  gorge  of  the  Allala,  said 
to  have  been  founded  by  S.  Spanish  Moors  in  875,  was  notorious  aa 
a  den  of  pirates  in  the  Turkish  period.  33  M.  Tenes  (161  ft. ;  Hot.  des 
Arts;  Hot.  de  TUnivers,  etc.;  pop.  5000,  Berbers  3300),  founded  in  1843, 
is  perched  like  Mostaganem  on  the  edge  of  a  plateau  rising  above  its 
little  frequented  harbour,  which  is  fairly  sheltered  on  the  E.  only  by  the 
huge  rocky  Cape  T&nes  (2093  ft.;  lighthouse  visible  for  40  M.).  Of  Car- 
the  earliest  settlement  here,  originally  founded  by  Phoenicians,  a 
few  Roman  cisterns  only  have  been  preserved.  At  the  W.  end  of  Tenes 
there  are  also  some  rock-tombs  belonging  to  an  early-Christian  cemetery. 

A  second  Road  (36  M.;  'courrier'  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  and  Frid.  at  6  a.  m., 

in  8  hrs.)  leads  from  Orleansville  to  the  S.E.,  through  the  Ouarsenis  Mts., 

I  M.)  Bouca'id,  with  the  zinc  and  galena  mines  of  the  Belgian  Vieille- 

Montagne  Co.,  to  (36  M.)  Beni-Hindel  (3825  ft.)  at  the  S.  base  of  the  triple- 

prakort  Ouarsenis  (6512  ft.).    To  Teniet  el-Hadd,  see  p.  211,  210. 

Leaving  Orleansville,  the  train  runs  to  the  N.E.,  near  the  Che- 
lif, to  (135  M.)  Ponttba.  Fine  view,  to  the  left,  of  the  hill-region 
on  the  E.  margin  of  the  lower  plain  of  the  Chelif.  140  M.  Le  Bar- 
rage, near  the  largest  reservoir  of  the  Chelif.  The  train  sweeps 
round  to  the  S.,  away  from  the  river,  and  traverses  a  fertile  and 
well  shaded  plain  to  (146  M.)  Oued-Fodda  (522  ft.),  a  small  town 
of  5300  inhab.,  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Oued  Fodda,  through 
whose  valley  peeps  the  three-peaked  Ouarsenis  (see  above). 

In  the  Ploine  des  Ailafs,  as  the  very  monotonous  central  plain 
of  the  Chelif  is  called,  we  next  come  to  (14S  M.)  Temoidga-Vauban, 
at  the  foot  of  the  bare  Jebel  Temoulga  (1749  ft.;  with  iron-mines), 
to  (162  M.)  Oued-Rou'ina,  and  (166  M.)  Kherba,  the  station  for 
a  village  3  M.  to  the  N.,  on  the  margin  of  the  Dahra  Mts.  —  To  the 
right,  in  the  foreground,  rises  the  range  of  Jebel  Doui  (3409  ft.), 


210     Route  33.  TENIET  EL-HAAD.  From  Oran 

whose  spurs  bound  the  central  Chelif  plain.  To  the  left,  for  a  short 
time,  we  have  a  *View  of  Jebel  Bou  Maad  (4643  ft.),  generally 
snow-clad  in  winter,  and  of  Jebel  Zaccar  Gharbi  (p.  212).  171  M. 
Duperre  (820  ft.),  at  the  foot  of  Jebel  Doui,  near  the  ancient  Roman 
Oppldum  Novum. 

The  train  crosses  the  Chelif  above  the  influx  of  the  Oued  Ebda. 
To  the  left,  in  the  river-bed,  is  the  pier  of  a  bridge  on  the  old 
Roman  military  road.  We  now  pass  through  a  defile  between  barren 
hills;  to  the  right  we  have  a  glimpse  of  the  broad  upper  plain  of 
the  Chelif.  178V2  M.  Littre  or  Les  Arib  (853  ft.),  in  the  Plaine 
des  Aribs,  at  the  foot  of  the  Dahra.  184  M.  L'avarande  (945  ft.), 
on  the  spurs  of  the  Zaccar  range. 

18672M.  Affreville  (1020  ft.;  Rail.  Restaurant,  with  rooms, 
good;  Hot.  de  l'Univers,  in  the  village,  next  to  the  diligence-office, 
R.  2,  B.  Va,  D.  2  fi\;  Hot,  du  Haut-Chelif;  Hot.  de  Vaucluse,  near 
the  station,  well  spoken  of;  pop.  2000),  at  the  foot  of  Jebel  Zaccar 
Gharbi,  is  one  of  the  stations  (Miliana-Margueritte  being  the  other, 
see  p.  211)  for  Miliana  (6J/4  M. ;  diligence  3  times  daily,  1  fr. ;  carr 
10-12  fr.),  and  the  starting-point  for  Teniet  el-Haad. 

The  Excursion  to  the  Cedar  Forest  of  Teniet  el-Haad  takes  a 
day-and-a-half  (motor-omnibus,  5  or  6  fr.,  in  ca.  3  his. ;  diligence,  leaving 
at  11  a.m.,  returning  at  9.40  a.m.,  in  8  hrs.;  carriage  50  fr.  or  more, 
hardly  recommended).  To  the  E.  of  Affreville,  beyond  the  market  (Thurs.) 
and  the  Oued  Sou/fay,  our  rather  featureless  road  diverges  to  the  S. 
from  the  Dolfusville  road ;  it  leads  among  eucalyptus  trees  to  the  (23/4M.) 
Chelif,  and  then,  beyond  (7'/2  M.)  Le  Putts  (971  "ft.),  ascends  by  the  Oued 
Massin  through  an  almost  uninhabited  part  of  the  Tell  Atlas,  between 
hills  thinly  clad  with  pines.  10'/2  M.  Pont-du-Caid  (1329  ft.);  16'/2  M. 
Oaravans4ra.il  de  VOiud- Massin;  22  M.  Marbot  (2287  ft.).  Beyond  the 
39th  kilometre-stone  (2 J' /a  M.)  we  observe  on  the  right  the  curiously 
shaped  sandstone  rock  of  Jebel  Hadjra  Toiiila.  We  then  cross  a  pass 
(2920  ft.),  whence  We  have  a  pleasing  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Massin 
behind  us,  to  (27'/2  M.)  Dutertre  on  the  Oued  Rouina. 

36  M.  Teniet  el-Haad  (3806  ft.;  Hot.  du  Commerce,  R.  2,  dej.  2, 
D.  2]/2  fr.,  tolerable;  Hot.  de  la  Colonie,  humble;  pop.  2100),  the  starting- 
point  of  caravan-routes  to  Tiaret  (p.  208)  and  to  Chellala  and  Laghouat 
(p.  215),  situated  on  one  of  the  most  important  passes  of  the  Tell  Atlas, 
owes  its  name  ('Sunday  Pass')  to  its  Sunday  market,  attended  chiefly  by 
the  inhabitants  of  the  Plateaux  du  Sersou  (p.  208).  On  the  E.  side  of 
the  little  town  lies  the  poor  'Village-Negre'  (comp.  p.  181). 

The  *  Cedar  Forest  of  Teniet  cl-Hadd,  on  the  slopes  of  Jebel  el-Meddad 
(5863  ft.;  'cedar-mountain'),  to  the  W.  of  the  town,  is  still  the  finest  in 
Algeria,  although  largely  cut  down  of  late  and  bereft  of  its  primaeval 
character.  The  Atlas  cedar  (Cedrus  Atlantica  Manetti),  with  its  silvery 
and  very  short  needles,  and  of  gnarled  and  often  fan-like  growth,  is 
smaller  and  less  showy  than  the  Himalaya  cedar  (Cedrus  Deodora  Rox- 
burg)  and  the  cedar  of  Lebanon  (Cedrus  Libani),  but  in  a  few  cases 
attains  a  circumference  of  30  ft.  The  cedars  are  mingled,  particularly 
in  the  lower  parts  of  the  forest,  with  evergreen  or  holm  oaks  and  cork- 
trees (Quercus  ilex,  cenis,  and  suber).  The  excursion  to  the  forest,  as 
far  as  the  Rond-Point  and  back,  takes  4V2-5  hrs.,  or  including  Kef  Siga 
6-7  hrs.  (Mule,  obtained  from  the  natives,  or  horse,  from  the  Bureau  des 
Messageries,  5  f r. ;  carr.  from  the  latter,  20-25  fr.,  hardly  advisable  as  the 
road  is  bad.)  The  road  to  the  (83/4  M.)  Rond-Point  leaves  the  highroad 
to  the  S.  of  the  town,   but  riders  and  walkers  take  a  short-cut  from  the 


to  Algiers.  Ml  LIANA.  33.  Route.     211 

W.  side  of  the  town,  thus  saving  about  l'/4  M.  In  about  40  min.  we 
come  to  the  raravluie,  on  the  right  side  of  the  carriage-road,  an  um- 
brella-shaped cedar  on  a  rocky  height  on  the  N.  slope  or  the  Kef  Sachi 
(5184  ft.),  and  in  25  min.  more  to  the  forester's  hut  (gourbi  forestier)  of 
Pri-Maigrat.  The  finest  parts  of  the  forest  are  near  the  forester's  house 
at  the  Bond-Point  des  Gedres  (4889  ft. ;  rfmts.  if  required),  on  the  N 
margin  of  the  Jebel  el-Meddad,  where  the  Sultane,  one  of  the  grandest 
of  the  cedars  is  pointed  out.  From  the  Roud-Point  a  steep  zigzag  path 
ascends  to  a  saddle  with  a  pasture  in  a  clearing  (on  the  right),  where 
we  dismount,  and  whence  we  climb  over  the  rocks  to  the  top  of  the 
Kef  Siga  (5624  ft.),  the  N.W.  peak  of  the  'cedar-mountain'.  The  *View 
embraces  the  whole  of  the  Ouarseuis  group  (p.  209);  to  the  E.  rise  the 
mountains  of  Boghar;  to  the  N.  the  Zaccar  range  with  Miliana.  To  the 
S.  we  survey  the  Hauts-Plateaux,  with  the  bare  hills  of  Chellala,  as  far 
as  the  distant  Jebel  Amour  (p.  170)  in  the  Sahara  Atlas. 

From  the  Bond-Point  we  may  ride  on  to  the  W.  to  (5-6  hrs.)  Beni- 
Hindcl  (p.  209). 

The  train  crosses  the  Oued  Boutan.  It  then  runs  to  the  N.E., 
soon  with  a  retrospect  of  the  Ouarsenis  Mts.,  and  ascends  the  lux- 
uriantly fertile  valley  of  the  Oued  Sou/fay,  between  the  Zaccar  range 
and  Jebel  Gontas  (2858  ft.),  to  (193V2  M.)  Miliana- Margueritte  or 
Adelia  (about  1700  ft.),  the  station  for  Miliana,  5^2  M.  to  the  W. 
(reached  by  steam-tramway,  in  connection  with  the  trains,  in  3/4  hr.), 
and  for  Margueritte  (p.  212;  diligence). 


Miliaria.  —  Hotels.  *  Hotel  du  Commerce  &  d'Isly,  Rue  de  Con- 
stantine,  near  Place  Carnot;  Hot.  Valentin,  Place  Carnot,  next  the  diligence- 
oftiee,  with  dependanee  (Hot.  d' Europe)  iu  Rue  Fontenoy,  R.  2  fr.,  B.  40  c, 
dej.  or  D.  2,  pens.  6  fr.,  unpretending,  attentive  landlord.  —  Diligence 
to  Affreville  (in  the  morning  in  connection  with  the  motor-omnibus  to 
Teniet  cl-Haad),  see  p.  210. 

Miliana  (2428  ft, ;  pop.  8400,  incl.  5300  Mohammedans),  which 
is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Bologgin  ez-Ziri  (comp.  p.  221) 
on  the  site  of  the  Roman  Zucchabar,  lies  most  romantically  on  a 
terrace  on  the  S.  slope  of  Jebel  Zaccar  Gharbi,  amidst  luxuriant 
gardens,  and  is  particularly  charming  in  April  when  the  fruit- 
trees  are  in  blossom. 

The  chief  gate,  the  N.  gate  of  the  modern  town-walls,  is  the 
Porte  da  Zaccar,  near  the  tramway-terminus,  a  few  paces  from  the 
small  public  Jardin  Magenta. 

Passing  the  covered  Marche  Arabe  the  Rue  St. Paul,  a  beauti- 
ful avenue  of  planes,  leads  in  3  min.  to  the  Place  Carnot,  in  the 
centre  of  which  rises  an  ivy-clad  Minaret  (now  a  clock-tower),  a 
of  the  chief  mosque,  which  was  destroyed  during  the  war  with 
Al.^1  el-Kader  (p.  221). 

NTear  the  S.W.  angle  of  the  Place  Carnot  passes  the  Rue  St.  Jean, 
also  planted  with  plane-trees,  leading  to  the  S.  to  the  Esplanade  de 
la  Casbah  (nicknamed  Poinie  aux  Blagueurs),  which  affords  a  de- 
lightful view  of  the  CheJif  plain  and  the  Ouarsenis  Mts.  The  orchards 
around  and  the  cascades  of  the  Oued  Boutan  (see  above)  are  better 
seen  from  the  rampart  promenade  on  the  E.  side  of  the  town. 


212     Route  33.  HAMMAM  RHIRA.  From  Oran 

The  *  Jebel  Zaccar  Gharbi  (5181  ft. ;  'Western  Zaccar')  is  ascended 
by  a  good  mule-path  in  2'l2-3  hrs.  (mule  4-5  fr.).  The  view  of  the  wooded 
Dahra  Mts.,  of  the  Chenoua  (p.  242),  of  part  of  the  Mitidja,  and  of  the 
S.  Tell  Atlas,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Algeria. 

A  delightful  *Excursion,  by  carriage  or  on  foot,  especially  in  spring, 
may  be  taken  to  (6V4  M.)  Margueritte,  the  road  to  it  being  part  of  that 
from  Affreville  to  Blida  and  Algiers  (comp.  p.  214).  The  road  branches 
to  the  left,  a  few  minutes  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Porte  du  Zaccar,  from  the 
Adelia  road,  and  soon  passes  close  below  the  iron  and  copper  mines 
of  the  Sociiti  des  Mines  du  Zaccar,  which  are  connected  by  a  line  of 
rails  with  the  road  tramway.  Farther  on,  ascending  gradually  through 
orchards,  a  perfect  sea  of  blossom  in  spring,  we  reach  the  gorge  of  the 
Oued  Righas  or  Rirhas,  between  Jebel  Zaccar  Gharbi  and  Jebel  Zaccar 
Chergui  (5027  ft.;  'Eastern  Zaccar'),  which  also  is  famed  for  its  view. 

Margueritte  (2395  ft.;  Hot.  du  Zaccar,  poor)  lies  picturesquely  on  the 
S.E.  slope  of  the  hill,  3  M.  above  the  rail,  station  of  Miliana-Margueritte 
(p.  211),  with  a  fine  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Oued  Souffay,  and  yields 
one  of  the  best  red  wines  in  Algeria.  —  Farther  on  the  road  skirts  the 
E.  slope  of  the  Zaccar  Chergui,  rounds  the  gorge  of  the  Oued  Tizi-Ouchir, 
and  then  descends  in  windings  across  the  Col  des  Oliviers  (1834  ft.;  beyond 
this  a  rough  road  to  the  left  diverges  to  Hainniam-Rhira,  see  below),  aside 
from  the  village  of  Vesoul-Benian  (1653  ft. ;  4'/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  rail, 
station,  see  below),  to  (9  M.)  the  Pont  de  VOued  el-Hammam  (see  below). 


Just  beyond  Miliana-Margueritte  the  Railway  passes  through 
a  tunnel  (2525  yds.)  into  the  bleak  valley  of  the  Oued  Zeboudj. 
20072  M.  Vesoul-Benian,  station  for  the  village  (see  above). 

205  M.  Bou-Medfa  (797  ft.),  about  1  M.  to  the  W.  of  the 
village  of  that  name,  is  the  station  for  the  baths  of  Hammam 
Rhira.  (Hotel-omnibus  meeting  every  train,  up  in  1,  down  in 
3/4hr.;  trunk  7rl»/,£r.) 

The  road  ascends  to  the  W.  from  the  station  in  the  valley  of  the  Oued 
el-Hammam,  which  at  Bou-Medfa  joins  the  Oued  Zeboudj  to  form  the 
Oued  Djer  (p.  213).  2  M.  Pont  de  VOued  el-Hammam  (883  ft.),  at  the 
junction  of  our  road  with  that  leading  from  Affreville  and  Miliana  to 
Bourkika  (p.  243),  Blida,  and  Algiers.  We  follow  the  latter  into  the 
side-valley  of  the  Oued  Djir,  whence  we  ascend  to  the  S.W.  in  windings 
to  -the  (7  M.)  village  of  Hammam  Rhira  (1542  ft.;   Hot.  d'Orient,   poor). 

7V2  M.  Hammam  Rhira  (1706  ft.;  *Grand-H6t.  des  Bains,  of  the 
first  class,  with  beautiful  grounds  shaded  with  palms,  and  baths  including 
two  hot  swimming-baths,  B.  4-8,  B.  l»/2,  dej.  'dlj2,  D.  5,  pens.  10-18  fr., 
open  15th  Dec.  -15th  May  only;  Hot.  Bellevue,  dependance  of  the  former 
and  below  it,  also  with  baths,  plainer,  pens.  7-9  fr.,  open  May-Dec),  the 
Aquae  Calidae  of  antiquity,  Arabic  Hammam  Sidi-SKmdn  (Solomon's 
Bath),  is  the  most  fashionable  watering-place  in  Algeria.  It  lies  on  a 
barren  terrace  descending  abruptly  to  the  S.E.  to  the  Oued  el-Hammam, 
affording  a  fine  view  of  Jebel  Zaccar  Chergui  to  the  W.,  and  of  Jebel 
Gontas  (p.  211),  Jebel  Louhe  (4751  ft.),  and  Jebel  Mouzai'a  (p.  213)  to 
the  S.  The  hot  springs  (113-166°  Fahr.),  which  are  strongly  impregnated 
with  carbonate  and  hydrated  sulphate  of  lime,  are  used  as  a  cure  for 
rheumatism,  gout,  etc.,  while  the  water  of  a  cold  chalybeate  spring  is 
drunk  by  anaemic  and  dyspeptic  patients.  The  chief  season  for  foreign 
visitors  is  from  the  middle  of  Feb.  to  the  middle  of  April;  in  summer 
the  military  hospital,  which  contains  three  restored  ancient  piscinae,  and 
the  Mohammedan  and  Jewish  baths  below  the  Hot.  Bellevue  are  much 
frequented  by  Algerians.  The  Alice  des  Ruines  in  the  public  grounds 
contains  a  few  relics  from  the  ancient  Aquae  CalidaB.  We  may  walk  thence 
to  the  W.,   between  vineyards  which  yield  excellent  red  wine,   in  '/*  hi 


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to  Algiers.  BLIDA.  33.  Route.     213 

to  the  Foret  de  Chaiba,  a  pine-forest  of  2000  acres,  in  which  the  'petit 
tour'  of  2'/s  or  the  'grand  tour'  of  5  M.  may  be  taken.  The  Samsam 
(2800  ft.)  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  Mitidja  and  the  Sahel  (p.  221). 
Pleasaut  drives  (carr.  15-40  fr.  per  day;  driver  and  horses  to  be  fed  by 
the  hirer)  via  (12:/2M.)  Margiieritte  to  (18'/2M.)  Miliaria  (comp.  p.  212);  via, 
Bourkika  and  Marengo  to  (23  M.)  Tipaza  or  to  Cherchell  (see  pp.  243,  244). 

From  Bou-Medfa  the  train  descends  to  the  N.E.,  skirting  the 
Oued  Djer,  and  through  a  defile,  overgrown  with  underwood,  at  the 
foot  of  the  Nador  des  Soumata  (2507  ft.),  to  (214  M.)  Oued-Djer, 
and  then  to  the  E.  into  the  broad  plain  of  the  Mitidja  (p.  221).  To 
the  left  in  the  distance  rises  the  Chenoua  (p.  242),  and  on  the  Sahel 
range  (p.  221)  may  be  seen  the  'Tombeau  de  la  Chretienne'  (p.  238). 

219'/2  M.  El-Affroun,  a  village  on  the  Affreville  and  Algiers 
road,  is  like  Castiglione  (p.  238)  a  starting-point  for  Tipaza  and 
Cherchell  (steam-tramway,  see  p.  243).  To  the  right  rise  the  hills 
of  Blida,  with  the  deep  incision  of  the  Chiffa  ravine  (p.  215). 

222^2  M.  Mouza'iaville  (368  ft.;  pop.  5000)  lies  near  the  spurs 
of  the  wooded  Jebel  Mouza'ia,  inhabited  by  the  Berber  tribe  of 
that  name.  225»/2  M.  Chiffa  (364  ft.),  near  the  left  bank  of  the 
CJiiffa  (see  p.  238),  and  nearly  4  M.  from  the  entrance  to  the  ravine 
(by  the  Rocher  Blanc,  p.  215).  —  We  cross  the  stony  bed  of  the 
Chiffa,  opposite  the  influx  of  the  Oued  el-Kebir  (see  below),  and 
then  ascend  through  fields,  vineyards,  and  cactus-hedges  to  — 

230  M.  Blida.  —  The  Station  (689  ft.)  lies  about  »/4  M.  below  the 
town,  to  the  N.W.,  18-20  min.  from  the  chief  hotels.  Omnibus  to  the  Place 
d'Armes,  with  luggage,  10  (at  night  20)  c. ;  cab  50  c. 

Hotels.  Hut.  d' Orient  (PI.  a;  C,  3),  Rue  d' Alger  and  Place  d'Armes, 
R.  3-5,  B.  IV2,  dej.  3'/2,  D-  4,  pens.  12,  omn.  1lifr.,  good;  Hot.  Ge'ronde 
(PI.  b;  B,  2),  Rue  Lamy,  plainer;  Hot.  de  la  Mitidja  (PI.  c;  B,  2),  Rue 
Flatters,  corner  of  Rue  Pelissier,  R.  2,  dej.  or  D.  2  fr.,  plain  but  good; 
//■"'.  de  la  Gare,  near  the  station,  dej.  l>/2,  D.  2  fr.,  humble. —  Cafe 
d' Orient,  in  the  hotel,  and  Brasserie  Lyonnaise,  both  in  the  Place  d'Armes. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  5;  C,  3),  Place  d'Armes. 

Cabs  (stand  in  the  Rue  de  l'Hopital,  behind  the  Place  d'Armes).  In 
town  V21  to  Sid-el-Kcbir  3-5,  Chiffa  Ravine  8-12  fr.  (according  to  bargain). 

Sights.  Forenoon,  Jardin  Bizot,  Bois  Sucre,  cemetery  of  S id-el- Kebir, 
and  Stud  Farm  ('la  Remonte');  afternoon,  trip  to  the  Chiffa  Ravine, 
either  from  Sidi-Madani  or  Camp-des-Chenes  (p.  215).  If  desired  Algiers 
may  be  reached  by  train  the  same  evening.  The  attractive  mountain 
tours  (Les  Glacieres,  etc.)  are  feasible  in  summer  only. 

Blida  (886  ft.;  pop.  18,400,  inch  10,700  Mohammedans),  one 
of  the  pleasantest  provincial  towns  in  Algeria,  with  a  strong  gar- 
rison, is  charmingly  situated  at  the  N.  base  of  the  Tell  Atlas,  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Oued  el-Kebir.  To  this  so-called  'great  river', 
as  well  as  to  the  considerable  rainfall  in  winter,  the  town  is  indebted 
for  the  splendid  timber  in  its  public  grounds  and  the  luxuriant 
vegetation  of  its  orchards,  notably  the  orange-groves  between  the 
N.  suburbs  of  Joinville  and  Montpensier.  The  town  is  said  to 
have  been  founded  by  Andalusian  Moors  iu  1535;  in  1825  it  was 
destroyed  by  an  earthquake;  it  has  been  rebuilt  since  1838,  but  in 
1867  was  again  much  damaged  by  an  earthquake. 


214     Route  33  BLIDA.  From  Oran 

From  the  station  we  proceed  via  the  Avenue  de  la  Gare  to  the 
Bab  el-Sebt  (PL  A,  B,  2),  5  min.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Bois  Sacre  (see 
below),  and  within  the  town-walls  we  follow  the  Rue  Lamy,  called 
also  Boulevard  Trunielet,  to  the  — 

Place  d'Armes  (PI.  C,  3),  which,  with  the  adjoining  Rue  d' Alger 
(PL  C,  3,  2),  is  the  centre  of  traffic.  This  pleasant  square  is  planted 
with  plane-trees  and  has  a  fountain  in  the  centre  shaded  by  a  great 
date-palm  (a  band  plays  here  in  winter).  Adjacent  is  the  Place 
Lavigerie  with  the  Catholic  church  of  St.  Charles  (PI.  C,  4). 

The  streets  to  the  N.  of  the  Place  d'Armes,  with  the  two  small 
Mosques  (PI.  3  &  4;  C,  3,  2),  and  the  lanes  near  the  Place  du 
Marche-Indigene  (PI.  C,  D,  3 ;  interesting  Friday  market)  are  in- 
habited mainly  by  Mohammedans  and  Jews.  From  the  Place  d' Al- 
ger, at  the  end  of  the  Rue  d'Alger,  the  Rue  Zaoui'a  leads  to  the  left 
to  the  large  Stud  Farm  (Depot  de  Remonte;  PI.  C,  1),  where  fine 
horses  of  the  Arab  and  Barb  breeds  may  be  seen. 

From  the  Place  d'Armes  the  Rue  and  Porte  Bizot  lead  to  the 
S.W.  to  the  *Jardin  Bizot  (PI.  B,  4),  containing  fine  araucarias, 
palms,  and  magnolias.  On  the  N.  side  of  the  Avenue  du  Champ-dc- 
Manceuvres,  5  min.  to  the  "W.  of  the  Porte  Bizot,  lies  the  famous 
Bois  Sacre  (PI.  A,  3, 4),  where  two  picturesque  tombs  of  saints  are 
shaded  by  superb  groups  of  Aleppo  pines,  araucarias,  and  olive-trees. 

The  Avenue  du  Charnp-do-Manoeuvres  joins,  near  the  drill-ground, 
the  highroad  to  Boukirka  (and  Affreville;  comp.  p.  212),  from  which,  just 
before  Chiffa  (p.  213),  5  M.  to  the  W.  of  Blida,  the  road  to  the  Chi/fa  Ravine 
and  liledea  (p.  215)  diverges  to  the  left.  This  route  to  the  Rocher  Blavc 
(p.  215)  is  uninteresting  and  in  summer  extremely  dusty  (cabs,  see  p.  213). 

From  Porte  Bizot  we  may  turn  to  the  E.  and  walk  round  the 
town-walls  through  an  avenue  of  carob-trees  to  the  Bab  el-Rabah 
(PL  D,  4),  the  S.E.  town-gate,  which  is  reached  also  from  the  Place 
d'Armes  by  the  busy  Rue  Tirman.  To  the  S.  of  this  gate  the 
Avenue  des  Moulins,  a  broad  avenue  of  planes,  leads  along  a  con- 
duit with  several  mills  into  the  pretty  valley  of  the  Oued  el-Kebir. 
After  10  min.  we  diverge  to  the  right  by  a  shadeless  road,  passing 
pleasant  orange-groves  and  crossing  the  stream  twice,  and  then, 
just  beyond  (:/2  hr.)  a  mill,  ascend  a  path  to  the  left  to  the  poor 
village  of  Sid-el-Kebir.  Above  the  village  are  the  Zaouia  and  the 
picturesque  Cemetery  of  Sid-el-Kebir,  with  the  tombs  of  Ahmed 
el-Kebir  (d.  1560),  the  founder  of  Blida,  and  his  two  sons,  to  which 
on  great  Mohammedan  festivals  pilgrims  flock  from  far  and  near. 
A  second  footpath  to  the  N.  descends  hence  into  the  valley. 

The  highest  mountains  of  Blida,  the  Jebel  Mouzaia  (p.  213)  and 
the  *Pic  des  Beni-Salah  or  Jebel  Sidi  Abd  el-Kdder  (5345  ft.), 
are  famed  for  their  cedar-forests,  where  the  natives,  however,  have 
made  sad  havoc,  and  for  the  grand  panorama  they  command.  The 
distant  view  embraces  the  Tell  Atlas  from  the  Ouarsenis  (p.  209) 
to  Jebel  Dira  (p.  250),  the  Dahra  (p.  208),  and  the  whole  of  the 


to  Algiers  BOGHARI.  83.  Route.     215 

Mitidja  with  the  Sahel  and  the  Jurjura  chain  (p.  258).  The  ascent 
of  the  Jebel  Sidi  Abd  el-Kader  via  Ain-Talazit  takes  4  hrs. — 
Hardly  less  repaying  is  the  ascent  of  the  Kef  Chrea  (5085  ft.) ,  to 
the  S.E.  of  Blida,  to  which  a  bridle-path  (mule  4-5  fr.)  leads  from 
the  Avenue  des  Moulins  (p.  214),  via  the  village  of  Les  Glacitres 
(3957  ft.;  Hot.  d' Altitude,  dej.  3  fr.,  good)  in  4  hrs. 

From  Blida  to  Berrouaghia,  52  M.,  railway  in  4  hrs.  (fares  9  fr.  10, 
6  fr.  70,  5  fr.  5  c).  The  train  diverges  to  the  S.W.  from  the  Oran  and 
Algiers  line,  crosses  the  Oued  el-Kebir  and  the  Chiff'a  (p.  213),  and  beyond 
the  Rocher  Blanc  (466  ft. ;  inn)  enters  the  Gorges  de  la  Chiffa,  a  grand 
defile,  flanked  with  the  slopes  of  the  Pic  des  Beni-Salah  and  Jebel  Mou- 
zal'a,  here  over  3000  ft.  high.  At  (7</2  M.)  Sidi-Madani  (597  ft.)  begins 
the  finest  part  of  the  ravine;  the  grandest  scenery  is  around  the  Hot. 
du  Ruisseau-des-S inges  (738  ft.;  ddj.  l3/4-3,  D.  3  fr.),  at  the  mouth  of  the 
side-valley  of  the  Oued  Tamesguida,  and  at  the  waterfalls  beyond  the 
inn.  The  numerous  apes  (p.  171)  that  dwell  in  the  rocks  here  sometimes 
descend  to  the  bottom  of  the  valley.  — 12  M.  C'amp-des- Chines  (1253  ft.; 
inn),  beyond  the  lateral  valley  of  the  Oued  Merdja.  Following  the 
valley  of  the  Oued  Mouza'ia  the  train  leads  round  the  S.  slope  of  Jebel 
Mouzal'a  to  (19l/2  M.)  3Iouzaia-les- Mines  (1640  ft.),  with  its  deserted  copper 
and  iron  mines,  and  then,  in  numerous  windings,  ascends  the  W.  slope 
of  Jebel  Nador  (3675  ft.;  fine  views)  to  (28  M.)  Lodi  (3042  ft.).  — 31  M. 
Medea  (3019ft.;  Hot.  d'Orient;  Hot.  du  Commerce;  pop.  3800,  incl. 
1900  Mohammedans  and  1200  Jews),  a  small  town,  perhaps  on  the  site 
of  the  Roman  Lambdia  (Tirinadisf),  was  founded  by  Bologgin  ez-Ziri 
(eonip.  p.  221),  and  was  the  capital  of  a  beylic  in  the  Turkish  period  under 
the  name  of  Titteri.  Great  native  markets  (Thurs.  and  Frid.).  The  en- 
virons yield  excellent  white  wine,  but  it  is  often  adulterated.  —  The  train 
next  ascends  to  the  S.E.,  in  numerous  windings,  to  (44>/2  M.)  Ben-Ohicao 
(3790  ft.),  the  highest  station  on  the  line.  —  52'/2  M.  Berrouaghia  (2958  ft. ; 
Hot.  do  France;  Hot.  des  Voyageurs),  a  small  town  of  2300  inhab.,  is  the 
present  terminus  of  the  line,  which  is  being  continued  to  Djelfa. 

A  diligence  runs  dailv  in  5>/2  hrs.  (at  1p.m.,  returning  at  9.35  a.m.) 
to  (27>/2M.)  Boghari  (2077  ft.;  Hot.  Celestin,  R.  2,  dej.  or  D.  2>/,,  fr.), 
a  small  trading  town  of  some  importance  on  the  upper  Chelif  (p.  208), 
with  a  Monday  market  and  a  picturesque  Ksar  on  a  hill  (evening  dances 
by  girls  of  the  Ouled  Nail  tribe;  see  below). 

Bogh-.iri  is  the  starting-point  of  the  important  caravan-route  to  the 
Sahara  oases  of  Laghouat  and  Gharda'ia.  Diligence  every  other  day  at 
3  a.m.  via.  Ain-Oussara  and  Djelfa  (night-station)  to  Laghouat  in  58  hrs. 
(also  motor -omnibus  sometimes);  most  of  the  stopping -places  have 
very  fair  inns  or  caravanserais  (R.  usually  2,  dej.  or  D.  2'/2fr.).  13  M. 
Boughzotd  or  Bou-Guezoul  (2100  ft.);  82»/»  M.  ALn-Oussara  (2330  ft.); 
57  M.  Guelt  es-Stel  (all  three  in  the  Hauts-Plateaux,  p.  169);  85  M.  Znvila 
(good  drinking-water);  96  M.  Djelfa  (3803  ft.:  Hot.  de  France,  quite 
good;  Hot.  du  Roulage;  pop.  2200),  in  the  midst  of  the  Sahara  Atlas. 
This  little  town,  situated  in  the  valley  of  the  Oued  Djelfa  or  Melah, 
where  dolmens  abound,  and  at  the  junction  of  our  road  with  the  caravan- 
route  to  Bou-Saada  (p.  270),  is  the  capital  of  the  nomad  tribe  of  the  Ouled 
Nail,  whose  daughters  usually  lead  an  evil  life  in  the  S.  Algerian  towns 
before  marriage.  (Their  valuable  trinkets  are  noticeable.)  118  M.  Ain- 
el-Ibel  (3412  ft.);  137  M.  Sidi-Maklouf  (3019  ft.).  — 177'/2  M.  Laghouat 
(2461  ft.;  Hot.  Storace,  good;  Hot.  Mendane;  pop.  5700,  incl.  5000  Moham- 
medans and  400  Jews).  This  picturesque  little  town,  on  the  S.  slope  of 
the  Sahara  Atlas,  with  its  military  headquarters  and  brisk  trade,  lies  on 
the  Oued  Mzi  (called  Oued  Djedi  lower  down;  p.  284).  amidst  the  fruit- 
trees  of  a  palm-oasis.  It  has  a  pretty  Jardin  Public.  The  native  quarters 
present  a  curious  and  lively  scene. 

The  journey  from   Laghouat  to  (ISO'/a  M.)   Ghardala    by   the  rough 

Baedeker's  Mediterranean.  14 


216     Route  83.  GHARDAIA. 

Sahara  road  is  very  fatiguing.  (Diligence  every  second  day,  in  winter  at 
4  a.m.,  in  summer  at  5  p.m.,  in  30  hrs. ;  fare  30  or  25  fr. ;  motor-omni- 
bus projected.)  The  chief  stages  are:  220'/2  M.  (from  Boghari)  TUyhemt 
or  Tilrempt  (quarters),  in  an  oasis  of  terebinths  (p.  202);  205  M.  Berrian 
(1936  ft.),  a  little  town  of  3800  inhab.,  the  northmost  settlement  of  the 
Mozabites  (17th  cent.),  lying  on  the  chalky  limestone  plateau  of  the  C'hebka, 
with  a  palm-oasis  on  the  Oued  Bir. 

308  M.  (from  Boghari;  130'/2  from  Laghouat)  Ghardaia  (1805  ft.; 
Hot.  du  Sud;  pop.  8200,  incl.  5400  Mozabites),  a  free  market,  is  one  of 
the  most  picturesque  and  interesting  places  in  the  Sahara.  Situated  on 
the  Oued  Mzab,  in  a  beautiful  oasis,  with  64,000  palms,  the  town  is  en- 
closed by  a  lofty  wall  defended  with  towers,  and  is  dominated  by  the 
great  minaret  of  the  chief  mosque.  It  holds  high  market  on  Fridays,  and 
has  two  places  of  amusement  (for  Arabian  music  and  dances).  Ghardaia 
is  the  headquarters  of  the  Mzab,  a  small  republic  of  towns  which  was 
founded  in  the  11th  cent,  by  fugitive  Berber  Ibadites  (p.  208)  after  the 
destruction  of  Tiaret,  was  presided  over  by  a  priestly  caste  (tholbas),  and 
in  1852  became  a  protectorate  of  the  French  who  annexed  it  in  1882.  The 
Mozabites  or  Msabites,  who  hold  aloof  from  the  other  Mohammedans,  are 
often  met  with  as  artisans  and  small  traders  in  the  towns  of  the  Tell  Atlas 
and  in  the  oases  of  the  E.  Sahara,  but  in  their  old  age  they  always  return 
to  their  original  home.  Their  manners  and  customs  are  still  somewhat 
mediaeval;  their  mosques  with  minarets  in  the  form  of  blunted  pyramids, 
their  curious  cemeteries  and  tombs  with  votive  offerings,  and  their  schools 
will  be  found  interesting.  Their  language  is  a  Berber  dialect  akin  to 
those  of  the  Kabylcs  (p.  252)  and  the  Tuareg,  but  Arabic  and  French  also 
are  generally  spoken. 

Among  places  worth  seeing  near  Ghardaia  are  (3/4  M.)  Me'lilca,  with 
its  black  inhabitants  and  large  cemeteries,  and  (l'/4  M.)  Beni-Isguen,  a 
wealthy  place  of  5400  inhab.,  the  sacred  town  of  the  Mozabite  league, 
from  which  Arabs  and  Jews  are  excluded,  with  a  massive  town -wall, 
clean  streets  (smoking  forbidden),  and  a  loftily  situated  castle.  The  oldest 
town  of  the  league  is  El-Ateiif,  founded  in  1012,  with  2000  inhab.,  5'/2  M. 
to  the  E.  of  Ghardaia,  on  the  caravan-route  to  (55'/a  M.)  the  Mozabite 
colony  of  Guerrara.  Other  caravan-routes  lead  from  Ghardaia  to  the 
S.W.  via.  (166  M.)  El-Gol4a  (1280  ft.),  with  its  small  oasis,  to  In  Salalt 
and  the  Tuat  Oases,  and  to  the  S.E.  to  (112  M.)  Ouargla  (p.  285). 

Beyond  Blicla  the  train,  running  to  the  N.E.,  through  orange- 
groves  and  fields  of  vegetables,  again  descends  to  the  Mitidja. 
234  M.  Beni-Mered  (459  ft.),  with  fertile  gardens. 

239  M.  Boufarik  (164  ft.;  Hot.  Benoit,  Boul.  National;  Hot. 
Nemoz,  Place  Mazagran,  D.  2  fr. ,  quite  good;  Hot.  de  la  Gare, 
humble;  oinn.  to  the  Place  Mazagran;  pop.  6000),  once  a  fever- 
stricken  village  of  peasants,  is  now  the  centre  of  trade  for  the  prod- 
uce of  the  Mitidja.  Around  it  are  admirably  irrigated  vineyards  and 
orchards  (oranges,  mandarins,  etc.),  sheltered  from  the  prevailing 
winds  by  planes,  thujas  (arbor  vitse),  or  cypresses.  Near  it  are  fact- 
ories of  perfume  and  immense  wine-cellars.  To  the  W.  of  the  town 
is  the  large  Marche  Arabe  (cattle-market;  Monday),  12  min.  from 
the  Place  Mazagran,  or  reached  by  a  road  direct  from  the  station. 

On  the  right,  farther  on,  we  observe  the  hill-ranges  of  Rovigo 
and  L'Arba  (pp.  248,  247)  and  the  Jebel  Bou-Zegza  (p.  249). 
Beyond  (245V2  M.)  Blrtouta-Chebli  we  near  the  low  spurs  of  the 
Sahel  (p.  221).  252,/2  M.  Gue-de-Constantine,  in  the  plain  of  the 
brook  Harrach  (p.  247),  where  the  eucalyptus  abounds. 


\i 


ALGIERS.  W.  Route.     217 

254'/2  M.  Maison-Carre'e  (p.  247),  junction  of  the  lines  to  Tizi- 
Ouzou  (K.  38),  Bougie  (R.  37),  Constantino  (R.  43),  and  Biskra 
■  I!.  44),  and  also  of  the  tramways  to  Ai'n-Taya  and  Rovigo  (p.  219). 

The  train  turns  to  the  N.W.  and  reaches  the  shore.  High  up  on 
the  left  lies  Kouba  (p.  233).    2571/;;  M.  Hussein-Dey,  see  p.  233. 

Skirting  the  Jardin  d'Essal,  on  the  left  (p.  232),  we  now  sight 
Algiers.  Beyond  the  S.E.  suburbs  of  Le  Hamma,  Bdcourt,  and 
Mnstapka-Inferieur  (p.  232),  we  come  to  the  minor  station  of 
:?f;ol '._,  Bt.)  Agha  and  then  to  the  (262»/a  M.)  main  station  of  Algiers. 


34.   Algiers. 

Arrival  by  Sea.  The  French  steamboat  lines  (RR.  20,  22)  have  their 
own  piurs.  The  fare  for  landing  by  boat  from  other  steamers  is  30  c. 
trunk  20  c;  small  articles  free).  The  tariff  of  the  porters  (portefaix- 
commissionnaires,  largely  natives,  mostly  exorbitant)  to  the  lower  part 
of  the  old  town  is  25  c.  for  a  trunk  of  25  kilos  (55  lbs.),  50  c.  up  to 
50  kilos,  and  1  fr.  up  to  100  kilos ;  for  porterage  to  the  custom-house  (Douane ; 
where  baggage  is  not  cleared  on  Sun.  or  festivals)  25-50  c,  according  to 
bargain.  The  numbered  porters  of  the  steamboat  companies  had  better  be 
employed;  or  the  matter  may  be  entrusted  to  the  hotel-agents.  The  ser- 
\  ices  of  guides,   interpreters,  and  the  like  should  be  declined. 

Railway  Stations.  1.  Chief  Station  (Garej  PLC,  3),  Quai  Sud, 
below  the  Rampes  Magenta  (p.  223)  and  Boul.  Carnot,  5-15  min.  from  the 
hotels  in  the  town,  ;,/.,-l  hr.  from  those  at  Mustapha-Supcrieur:  station  for 
all  the  hotel-omnibuses  (no  tramway  ;  cabs,  see  p.  218). — 2.  Gave  de  I' Agha 
(PI.  C,  5,  6;  also  goods-station),  Rue  Sadi-Carnot,  at  Agha-Iuferieur  (p.  232;, 
a  subordinate  station  for  the  S.  quarters  of  the  town.  —  Town-offices  of  the 
railways,  Boul.  Carnot  2  and  at  the  Agence  Lubin  (p.  219). 

Hotels  (coinp.  p.  174;  in  Feb.  and  March  rooms  should  be  ordered  in 
advance).  In  the  Villa  Quarter  (Mustapha-Superieur  and  Quartier  dTsly; 
mostly  closed  in  summer),  suitable  for  some  stay,  clientele  largely  EiiLlis:; 
and  American:  *Hor.  Continental  (PI.  c;  A,  6),  Chemin  du  Telemly  and 
Boul.  Bon-Accueil  (entered  also  from  the  Station  Sanitaire,  p.  228),  on  a 
high  site,  with  fine  views  and  garden,  R.  5-20,  B.  l'/2i  dej.  4-5,  D.  6-8, 
pens,  from  13,  omu.  3  f r. ;  *H6t.  St.  George  (IT.  a;  A,  8),  Rue  Michelet, 
with  beautiful  grounds,  R.  5-15,  B.  l'/ai  ''  '•  I  -  I'/a >  D.  6-7,  pens.  13-25, 
omn.  3  fr. ;  Alexandra  (Hot.  Kirsch;  PI.  b,  A  8),  same  street,  with  garden 
and  small  terrace,  R.  4-18,  B.  2,  dej.  VI-,-ilj2,  D.  5-6,  pens.  12-25,  omu. 
3  fr.,  good  cuisine;  these  three  are  of  the  first  class.  —  Hot.  Oriental 
(PI.  f ;  A,  6),  Boul.  Bon-Accueil  (entrance  from  Station  Sanitaire),  witli 
garden,  R.  5-10,  B.  l'/4,  dej.  3,  D.  1,  pens,  from  9  fr.,  good  cuisine;  Grand- 
Hotel  (PI.  g;  A,  7),  above  Rue  Michelet,  with  fine  grounds,  pens.  9-12  fr. ; 
H6t.  Beau-sejour  (PI.  e;  A,  6),  Rue  Michelet,  below  the  Museum  Ter- 
race (p.  228),  R.  3-8,  B.  1,  dej.  or  D.  3,  pens.  8-10,  omn.  21/.,  fr.,  open 
throughout  the  year;  Pens.  Villa  Olivage,  beyond  the  Bois  de  Boulogne 
(p.  230),    good;    Pens.  Victoria,    Rue  Michelet,    near  the  Colonne   Voirol. 

In  the  Town,  nearer  the  sights,  more  convenient  for  excursions: 
*Hot.  Excelsior  (PI.  h;  C,  4,  5),  Boul.  Laferriere,  S  min.  from  the  Garc 
de  l'Agha,  well  fitted  up,  with  restaurant,  R.  1-30.  B.  l«/4,  dej.  SV2!  D.  5, 
hoard  8,  omn.  (also  from  the  Agha  station)  1  f r. ;  'Hot.  in:  i,  Oasis  (PI.  k; 
C,  3),  Rue  du  Lanrier  2  and  Boul.  de  la  Republique  9,  with  tine  views, 
restaurant,  and  American  bar,  R.  3-18,  B.  l'/2,  pens,  from  10,  omn.  l'/j  fr.; 
H6t.  de  la  Reoence  (PI.  1;  C,  2),  Place  du  Gouvernement  3,  R.  4-10,  B.  l'/>, 
dej.  3',.   D.  l'/a,  pens.  12-20,  omn.  l'/s  fr.;  Or. -Hot.  Arago  &  or  Palmier 

14* 


218     Monte  84. 


ALGIERS. 


Practical 


(PI.  m;  C,  3),  Rue  Arago  6,  quiet;  H6t.  de  Nice  (PI.  n;  C,  8),  Rue  Gari- 
baldi 2  and  Place  de  la  Republique  (Square  Bresson). 

H6tels  G-arnis.  Hot.  des  Etrakgers  (PI.  i;  C,  3),  Rue  Dumont- 
d'TJrville  1,  near  the  Place  de  la  Republique,  R.  3V2-7V2>  B.  l>/2;  H6t. 
d'Europe  &  Terminus  (PI.  o;  C,  3),  Rue  Garibaldi,  corner  of  Boul.  Carnot 
(R.  3-7,  B.  1  fr.),  Royal  Hotel  (PI.  p;  C,  3),  Boul.  de  la  Republique  10 
(R.  from  2V2  fr.),  both  with  fine  views;  H6t.  Regina,  Boul.  Bugeaud. 

Caf6s.  Cafe  Continental  (Brasserie  Maxeville),  Cafe"  d' Alger  (Brass, 
de  Tantonville),  both  Place  de  la  Republique;  Cafe"  de  Bordeaux,  Boul. 
de  la  Republique  1,  corner  of  Place  du  Gouvernement;  Cafe  d'Apollon, 
Place  du  Gouvernement  4.  —  Confectioner.  Maison Fille,  Rue  Bab-Azoun  2. 

Restaurants.  At  the  Hotel  Excelsior  (p.  217) ;  London  House,  at  the 
Hot.  de  l'Oasis,  Boul.  de  la  Republique  9,  dej.  3,  D.  4  fr. ;  *Taverne  Gruber, 
same  boulevard,  No.  7,  a  favourite  resort  (music  in  the  afternoon  and 
evening) ;  Jaumon,  Rue  Dumont-d'Urville,  dej.  2,  D.  2'/a  fr.,  plain  but  good. 
—  For  Luncheon  (fish,  sea-crayfish,  sholl-fish,  etc.):  *Restaur.  Cassar  and 
Restaur,  de  la  Pecherie,  Rampe  de  la  Pecherie. —  Beer  at  the  *Brasserie 
Terminus,  Boul.  Carnot  1  (in  Hot.  de  l'Europe),  D.  3  fr. ;  also,  Rue  de  la 
Liberte  6,  Brass,  de  VEtoile  (music  in  the  afternoon  and  evening)  No.  11, 
Brass.  Stcisse;  No.  8,  Brass,  du  Phenix;  No.  1,  Brass.  Lorraine. 

Cabs  (voitures  de  "place). 
'Double  cotcrses'  (there  and  back):  — 

a)  within  the  First  Zone,   extending  as  far    as   the  per  It r. 
European  cemetery  of  St.  Eugene  (beyond  PI.  B,  1) 
to  the  N.  and  as  the  beginning  of  the  Champ   de 

Manoeuvres  (PI.  0,  7)  to  the  S 

Each  1/4  nr 

b)  within  the  Second  Zone,  including  the  W.  margin 
of  the  town  (Prison  Civile,  Telemly,  Palais  d'Ete 
at  Mustapha,  etc.)  and  extending  as  far  as  Deux- 
Moulins  beyond  St.  Eugene  (comp.  Map,  at  p.  233) 
to  the  N.  and  the  Cimetiire  Musulman  (PI.  D,  9)  at 
Selcourt  to  the  S.  To  the  Jardin  d'Essai  (and  back) 
Each  1/4  hr 

Within  the  Third  Zone  comprising  the  regions   beyond 
those  just  named: 

Half-day  (6  hrs.),  within  a  radius  of  15  kilometres 

(»»/»  M.) 

Whole  day  (12  hrs.),  within  a  radius  of  25  kilometres 
(15VaM.) 

During  the  night-hours  (12-6  a.m.)  a  fare  and  a  half  is  charged.  —  For 
waiting,  '/a  fr-  extra  for  each  i/i  hr.  —  Hand-luggage  up  to  20  kilos  (44  lbs.) 
free;  each  piece  exceeding  that  50  c. 

Motor  Cabs  (Automobiles  de  place;  stand,  Rue  Garibaldi).  Drive 
under  900  mfetres  (984  yds.)  1  fr.  50  c. ;  for  each  addit.  300  m.  20  c. ;  small 
articles  free ;  trunk  50  c. 

Carriages  (cabs  and  'voitures  de  grande  remise' ;  fares  raised  on  Sun. 
and  holidays).  Vitos  &  Co.,  Rue  Michelet  105,  Mustapha-Superieur;  Sanino, 
Rue  de  Strasbourg  3,  and  Rue  Michelet  117;  Comp.  Ginirale  des  Voi- 
tures, Rue  de  Strasbourg  7.  —  Saddle  Horses  let  by  Vitoz  and  Sanino. — 

Motor  Cars  for  excursions:  Metrot,  Marce",  both  Rue  d'Isly  39; 
Anglo-American  Garage,   Chemin  du  Telemly;    E.  Paul,  Rue  d'Isly  73. 

Tramways  (1st  and  2nd  cl.).  1  (without  name-board).  From  Hopital 
du  Dey  (PI.  A,  B,  1)  to  Rue  Bab  el-Oued  (PI.  0,  1,  2),  Place  du  Gou- 
vernement (PI.  C,  2),  Rue  Bab-Azoun  (PI.  C,  2,  3),  Rue  d'Isly  (PI.  C,  3,  4), 
Rue  Michelet,  and  Station  Sanitaire  (PI.  A,  6),  every  5  min.  (but  5-6  a.m. 
and  10-12  p.m.  every  10  min.  only);  fare  5-20  c.  —  2  (red  name-board). 
From  Place  du  Gouvernement  to  Rue  d'Isly,  Rue  Michelet,  and  Colonne 


1.50 
—.50 


2.— 

2.50 
-.75 


yote*.  ALGIERS.  **  Route.     219 

Voirol  (comp.  PI.  A,  8),  every  '/a  hr.  (from  6  a.m.,  last  car  at  8.5  p.m.), 
in  40min.;  fare  30  or  20  c.  —  3  (blue).  From  Place  du  Gouvernement  to 
Rue  d'lsly,  Rue  Michelet,  and  Bold.  Bru  (PI.  A-C,  8,  9),  every  1/2  hr. 
(last  car  7.50),  in  '/2  hr. ;  30  or  20  c.  —  4  (green).  From  Place  du  Gouverne- 
ment to  Boul.  Carnot  (PI.  C,  3),  Rue  de  Constantine  (PI.  C,  4),  Rue  Sadi- 
Carnot  (PI.  B,  5,  6),  Rue  de  Lyon  (PI.  B-E,  7-9),  Le  Ruisseau,  and  Kouba; 
as  far  as  Marabout  (Cimetiere  Musulman  de  Belcourt)  every  5min.;  to 
Les  Platanes  (Jardin  d'Essai)  every  10  min.;  to  Kouba  every  40  min.;  fart 
35  or  30  c. —  5  (red).  From  Place  d  u  Gouvernement  to  Boul.  Carnot,  Rue 
Sadi-Carnot,  Jardin  d'Essai  (Oasis  des  Palmiers,  in  27  min.),  Nouvel  Am- 
liert.  Maison-Carre'e  (in  1  hr.);  as  far  as  Nouvel  Ambert  every  10  min.,  to 
Maison-Carree  every  20  min. ;  fare  60  or  45  c.  —  6.  From  Place  du  Gouverne- 
ment to  Rue  de  la  Lyre  (PI.  C,  2,  3),  Rue  Rovigo  (PI.  C,  3),  Prison  Civile 
(PI.  B,  C,  2;  20  or  15  c),  El-Biar  (comp.  PI.  A,  4;  40  or  35  c),  and  Chateau- 
Neuf  (in  50  min.;  50  or  40  c);  as  far  as  Prison  Civile  every  1/i  hr.,  to  El- 
Biar  every  '/s  hr.,  to  Chateau-Neuf  once  every  hr.  (Sun.  every  '/2  hr.).  — 
7.  From  Place  du  Gouvernement  to  Boul.  de  France  (PI.  D,  2)^  Esplanade 
(PI.  C,  1),  Bab  el-Oued  (PI.  B,  1),  St.  Eugene  (comp.  PI.  B,  1),  and  Deux 
.Woulins,  every  9  min.;  30  or  20  c. 

Steam  Tramways  from  the  Place  du  Gouvernement:  to  (Ji/jM.) 
Maison-Carre'e  (p.  217).  and  thence  either  to  (4'/2  M.)  Fort-de-VEau 
(p.  24S)  and  (12'/2  M.)  Atn-Taija  (p.  218),  or  to  (10>/2  M.)  VArba  (p.  247) 
and  (15'/2M.)  Rovigo  (p.  248);  to  (22  M.)  Mazafran  (p.  238),  and  thence 
either  to  (6'/4  M.)  Kolia  (p.  238),  or  to  (6V2  M.)  Castiglione  (p.  238). 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  22,  C4;  p.  226),  Rue  de  Constantine 
133;  branches  at  Rue  de  Strasbourg  2,  in  the  Palais  Consulaire  (p.  223),  at 
Rue  Michelet  64  (Mustapha-Inferieur),  near  the  Palais  d'Ete  (p.  230),  etc. 

Steamboat  Agents.  Cunard,  North  German  Lloyd  (R.  15  b), 
Hamburg -American,  German  Levant  (RR.  15b,  22),  and  Hungarian 
Adria  (R.  22),  R.  Heckmann,  Rue  Colbert  1;  Comp.  Genirale  Trans- 
atlantique  (RR.  20,  22),  Boul.  Carnot  6  and  Quai  de  la  Marine;  Soc.  de 
Transports  Maritimcs  (R.  20),  Boul.  de  la  Republique  2  and  Quai  de  la 
Marine;  Comp.  de  Navigation  Mirte  (R.  20),  Boul.  Carnot  2  anJ  Quai  do 
la  Marine;  White  Star  Line,  Austro- American  Line,  J.  Crispo,  Boul.  de 
la  Republique  3;  Nederland  Royal  Mail,  J.  Bergerot.  Boul.  Carnot;  Com- 
pailia  Mallorquina  de  Yapores  (R.  20),  J.  J.  Sitges  Freres,  Quai  Nord  40. 

Tourist  Agents.  R.  Heckmann  (Universal  Tourist  Office),  Boul.  de 
la  Republique  11;  Agence  Lubin,  Rue  de  la  Liberty  7;  Agence  Duchemin, 
same  street,  No.  4.  —  Information  obtainable  also  from  the  Comite  d'Hiver- 
nage,  Rue  Combe  2,  8-11  and  2-6  (Sun.  S-ll).  —  Club  Alpin  Francais  (sec- 
tion de  l'Atlas),  Palais  Consulaire  (p.  223). 

Consuls.  British  Consul-General,  B.  S.  Cave,  Boul.  Carnot  6;  vice- 
consuls,  L.  G.  C.  Graham,  L.  Graeme  Scott. — U.  S.  Consul,  A.  W.  Robert, 
Rue  d'lsly  64. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Dangerfltld,  Kent  House,  Colonne  Voirol ;  Dr.  Gubb, 
Mustapha.  Chemin  des  Glycines:  Dr.  Nisscn,  Mustapha-Superieur,  Villa 
Bey,  Rue  Michelet.  —  Chemists.  Grandmont  (Obrecht),  RueBab-Azoun  28; 
Licht,  Rue  Michelet  85;  Brenta,  Rue  Bab-Azoun  3. 

Baths.  Baiiis  du  Palmier,  Rue  Arago  6  (Gr.-H6t.  Arago  &  du  Palmier) ; 
Bains  du  Hamma,  Rue  du  Hamma  1  (near  the  Theatre  Municipal);  Baiiis 
Michelet,  Rue  de  Richelieu  25.  —  Moorish  Baths  (comp.  p.  175):  Bains  de 
I'Alhambra,  Rue  Marengo  4.  —  Sea  Baths  (June-Oct. ;  plainly  fitted  up; 
costume  50  c):  Bains  du  Jardin  d'Essai  (p.  233);  Bains  Nelson,  Avenue 
Malakoff. 

Banks   (comp.  p.  174).     Credit  Lyonnais,  Boul.  de  la  Republique  6; 
Algerienne,  Rue  Dumont-d'TJrville;   Banque  de  V Algfrie,   Cre'dit 
r  et  Agricole  d'Algtrie,   Credit  Agricole  et  Commerciel  Algirien 
(J.  Thibaud),  all  three  in  the  Boul.  de  la  Republique  (Nos.  5,  8,  &  4). 


220     Route  34.  ALGIERS.  Practical  Notes. 

Booksellers.  Jourdan,  Place  du  Gouvernement  and  Rue  Oleopatrel; 
C'haix,  Rue  d'lsly  llbis;  Relin,  Rue  d'lsly  11;  Ruff,  Rue  Bab-Azoun  10; 
Carbonnel,  Ledoux,  both  Boul.  de  la  Republique  (Nos.  2  &  7). — News- 
papers (5  c).  La  Depeche  Alejiriennc  (morning) ;  Les  Nouvelles,  Le  Cri 
d' 'Alger  (evening).     For  strangers,  The  North  African  News  (Sat.;  25  c.). 

Shops  (caution  almost  as  necessary  as  at  Tunis;  conip.  p.  331).  Photo- 
graphs and  Views.  Geiser,  Place  de  Chartres  2;  A.  Wottenweider,  Rue  du 
Divan  1;  If  yam,  Station  Sanitaire  (PI.  A,  6).  —  Oriental  Articles  (partly 
made  in  France  and  Germany;  also  Indian,  Japanese,  and  Turkish  wares). 
Ratto  (goldsmith),  Rue  Socg6mah  12;  Pohoomult  Freres,  RucBab-Azonn  11  j 
Ratto-Magana,  Rue  de  l'Etat  Major  5;  Miss  Jockyl,  English  Club  Build- 
ings, Mustapha-Superieur. —  Emisroidery.  Mine.  Hemery,  Rue  Michelet  851, 
Mustapha-Superieur.  —  Copper  and  Brass  Work.  Zagha  (from  Damascus), 
Rue  Bruce  27;  Nassau,  Place  Malakoff. 

Theatres.  Theatre  Municipal  (PI.  26;  C,  3),  Place  de  la  Republique, 
for  operas,  operettas,  and  dramas,  closed  in  summer.;  Kursaal  (PI.  C,  1), 
Esplanade  de  Bab-el-Oued  (tickets  sold  in  advance  at  4  Boul.  de  la  Re- 
publique.—  Casino  Music  Hall,  Rue  d'lsly  9  (fauteuil  2V2  fr.). — Fiies 
Mauresques  at  the  Kasba,  arranged  by  the  Cornite  d'Hivernage  (p.  219), 
with  native  musicians  and  dancers  (adm.  5  fr.). 

Band  plays  in  winter,  Sun.  and  Tliurs.,  4-5,  in  the  Place  du  Gou- 
vernement;  in  summer  (May-Oct.),  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  and  Sat.,  from  8  to 
10.30,  in  the  Place  de  la  Republique  (Square  Bresson),  and  on  Sun.,  Tues., 
and  Thurs.,  from  8  to  10.30,  in  the  Place  du  Gouvernement. 

Golf  Club,  with  good  nine  hole  course,  near  the  Pens;  Villa  Olivage 
(p.  217).  —  Skating  Rink  at  the  corner  of  Boul.  Carnot  an*d  Rue  Waisse 
(PI.  C,  4). 

Churches.  English  (Oh.  of  the  Holy  Ghost;  p.  230),  Rue  Michelet 
(PI.  A,  7),  to  the  N.'of  the  Alexandra  Hotel  (p.  217);  Sun.  services  at  8 
and  11.30  or  9.15  a.  m. ;  chaplain,  Rev.  A.  P.  Oronyn,  M.  A.  —  Presbyterian 
(St.  Andrew's;  PI.  7,  AG)  also  Rue  Michelet,  Sun.  service  at  10.30  a.m.; 
minister,  Rev.  T.  E.  Jubb,  M.  A. 

Sights,  with  days  and  hours  of  admission:  — 

Archevechi  (p.  224),  all  day;  fee  l/2-l  fr. 

Bibliotheque  Nationale  (p.  225),  week-days  1-6;  closed  Aug.  and  Sept. 

Conseil  General  (p.  224),  apply  to  secretary;  week-days  8-11  and  1-5. 

Ja/rdin  d'Essai  (p.  232),  all  day  (Zoologie  50  c). 

Iiasba  Barracks  (p.  227),  apply  to  Etat-Major,  Rue  do  la  Marine  11. 

Medersa  (p.  228),  except  during  lectures;  closed  Sun.,  Frid.,  and  on 
great  Mohammedan  festivals. 

Mosquee  de  la  Pecherie  (p.  223),  at  any  time  except  during  prayers. 

Mosque,  Great  (p.  224),  as  above. 

Mosque  ofSidi  Abderrahmdn  (p.  228),  Sun.,  Mon.,  Tues.,  8-12  and  2-3; 
closed  on  the  chief  Mohammedan  holidays. 

Musee  Municipal  des  Beaux-Arts  (p.  226),  daily,  except  Friday. 

Museum  (p.  229),  daily,  except  Mon.,  1-4  (1st  April  to  15th  July  2-5; 
closed  16th  July  to  30th  Sept.). 

Palais  d'Ete  du  Gouverneur  (p.  230),  in  bis  absence;  fee  1I2-1  fr. 

Palais  d'Hiver  du  Gouverneur  (p.  225),  as  above. 

Synagogue  (p.  227),  all  Frid.,  Sat.  after  12,  at  other  times  apply  to 
keeper,  30-50  c. 

As  to  visiting  the  Mosques,  see  p.  174.  —  Men  are  not  admitted  to  the 
Mohammedan  Cemeteries  (p.  xxvi)  on  Frid.  a.nd  holidays  12-6. 

Two  Days.  1st.  Forenoon,  Place  de  la  Re'jndtlique,  Boul.  de  la  Re"pub- 
lique.  Place  du  Gouvernement,  Great  Mosque,  Archevechi  (pp.  222-224), 
'■ 'Kasba  Quarter  (pp.  226,  227),  *Mosque  of  Sidi-Abderrahmdn  (p.  228), 
and  *Jardin  Marengo  (p.  224).  Afternoon,  Mustapha-Superieur  with  the 
*Museum  (pp.  228-230).  —  2nd.  Forenoon,  Mohammedan  Cemetery  at  Bel- 
court  (p.  232),  *Jardin  d'Essai  (p.  232).  Afternoon,  Notre-Dame  d'Afrique 
(p.  236)  or  Bouaareah  (p.  235). 


Uintory.  A  LG  I  ERS  >;  '■  L'<'"u  ■      22 1 

Algiers,  French  Alger,  Ital.  Algeri,  the  capital  of  the  French 
colony  of  Algeria,  with  154,000  inhab.  (incl.  35,200  foreigners, 
mostly  Italians  and  Spaniards,  33,200  Mohammedans,  and  12,500 
Jews),  seat  of  the  archbishop  of  Algeria,  a  fortress,  and  a  naval 
harbour,  lies  in  36°47'  N.  lat.  and  3  2'  E.  long.,  on  the  W.  side 
of  the  nearly  semicircular  *Baie  d' Alger,  which  is  bounded  on 
the  W.  by  the  Puinte  Pescade  (p.  237),  and  on  the  E.  by  Cape 
Matifou  (p.  248).  It  is  the  most  important  coaling-station  on  the 
whole  coast,  and  shares  with  Oran  the  chief  trade  of  Algeria.  The 
town  r\i. mis  along  the  slopes  of  the  Sahel  of  Algiers,  a  range  of 
hills  about  44  M.  long,  culminating  in  Mt.  Bouzareah  (p.  235),  con- 
tinued beyond  the  mouth  of  the  Oued  el-Harrach  by  low  sand-hills, 
and  separated  from  the  Tell  Atlas  by  the  Mitidja  (p.  169).  With 
regard  to  climate,  see  pp.  170,  172. 

On  the  site  of  the  Roman  Icosium,  an  unimportant  place  on  the  road 
to  Tipasa  and  Cajsarea  (Cherehel!,  p.  244),  Bologgin  ez-Ziri  (p.  323), 
about  910  (about  the  same  date  as  the  foundation  of  Miliana  and  Medea) 
founded  the  new  colony  of  Al-Jesdir  Bent  Mezghanna,  so  called  from 
the  adjacent  coast-islands  (jczira,  pi.  jezaiir)  and  from  the  Berber  tribe 
of  the  Beni  Mezghanna  who  dwelt  in  this  region.  It  is  recorded  that  in 
the  11th  cent,  the  inhabitants  of  the  new  settlement  used  the  old  Roman 
baths,  of  which  there  is  now  no  trace,  for  their  amusements  and  an  old 
Christian  basilica  for  their  worship.  From  that  time  the  history  of  Al- 
Jezalr  is  a  blank  down  to  the  end  of  the  loth  cent.,  when  it  began 
to  Berve  the  Moorish  exiles  from  Spain  (afterwards  called  Tagarins  here) 
as  a  base  of  their  retaliatory  expeditions  against  Spain.  In  1509  or  1510 
the  Spaniards,  in  the  course  of  their  victorious  career,  occupied  the 
largest  of  the  coast-islands,  where  they  erected  the  fortress  of  El-Penon, 
and  conquered  the  Mitidja  which  had  recently  been  colonized  by  the 
Arabian  tribe  of  the  Tsaliba.  The  little  town,  called  Argel  by  the 
Spaniards,  was  inhabited  by  Mohammedans,  who  in  1516  summoned  to 
their  aid,  from  Djidjelli.  Horttk  (Arudj)  Barbarossa,  a  Turkish  pirate 
of  Christian  descent.  Horuk  complied  with  the  request  and  established 
himself  at  Al-Jezai'r,  where,  after  repelling  a  Spanish  expedition  under 
Diego  de  Vera  (151f),  he  erected  the  Jenina  as  his  residence  and  the  Kasha 
as  his  citadel. 

Having  fallen  in  a  battle  with  the  Spaniards  near  I  lemcen  p.  187), 
Horuk  was  succeeded  by  his  brother  Ehtireddhi  Barbarossa  (1518-30),  who 
became  the  real  founder  of  the  new  barbaresco  or  piratical  state.  As  a 
vassal  of  the  sultan  of  Turkey  he  extended  his  sway  over  the  greater 
part  of  Algeria.  He  defeated  Hugo  de  Moncada,  the  Spanish  viceroy,  in 
1519,  and  in  1580,  after  having  stormed  the  fortress  of  Peiion,  he  con- 
structed the  Jetee  de  Kheireddin  with  its  materials  and  witli  others  from 
niaB  (p.  2-18)  and  Tipasa.  thus  creating  the  first  harbour  of  Algiers. 
Thenceforwards  for  three  centuries  the  'Algerian  pirates'  were  the  terror 
. if  the  seas,  to  whom,  for  protection  of  their  trade,  England,  Holland, 
the  Hanseatic  towns,  and  other  maritime  countries  ignominiously  consented 
to  pay  tribute.  Fourteen  times  the  European  powers,  from  the  time  of 
the  fruitless  campaign  of  Charles  V.  in  1541  to  the  British  expedition  of 
1824,  had  besieged  and  bombarded  Algiers  in  vain.  The  beys  (or.  after 
1600,  (leys)  had  succeeded  in  maintaining  their  position,  and  in  1627  had 
even  carried  their  piratical  expeditions  as  far  as  Iceland.  It  was  not 
till  1830  that  these  barbarous  piracies  were  put  a  stop  to  by  the  French, 
and   that  the  way  was  thus  paved  for  conquest  of  the  whole  of  Algeria. 

The  most  stirring  events  in  the  recent  history  of  Algeria  were  the 
conquest  of  Constautiue  (1837),  the  protracted  struggles  against  Abd  >l 
Kdder  (1839-47J,  the  defeat  of  his  Moroccan  allies  on  the  Oued  Isly  (1844), 


222     Route  H4.  ALGIERS.  Situation. 

the  subjection  of  Great  Kabylia  (1856-7),  the  revolts  of  the  natives  in 
1871-2,  the  rising  of  Bou-Amama  in  S.  Oran  (1881),  the  occupation  of  the 
Sahara  as  far  as  Tidikelt  and  the  Tuat  oases  (1892-1901),  and  lastly  the 
French  advance  towards  Morocco  (comp.  p.  96). 

The  Algiers  of  the  Turkish  period  consisted  solely  of  the  tri- 
angular quarter  on  the  slope  of  the  Kasha  Hill,  between  the  old 
landward  gates,  Bab  Azoun  on  the  S.  and  Bab  el-Oued  on  the  N., 
with  the  Silk  or  Market  Street  (now  Rue  Bab-Azoun  and  Rue  Bab 
el-Oued)  as  its  nucleus.  Between  these  two  gates  ran  the-old  Turkish 
wall,  on  whose  site  lie  the  Boul.  Gambetta  (PI.  B,  C,  3),  on  the  S., 
and  the  Boul.  Valee  (PI.  C,  2),  on  the  N.  The  French  ramparts 
constructed  in  1845  extended  the  town  as  far  as  the  present  Boul. 
Laferriere  (PI.  C,  4,  5)  to  the  S.,  and  to  the  Boul.  du  General  Farre 
to  the  N.  (PL  C,  1).  Since  the  demolition  of  these  fortifications  in 
1904  the  industrial  suburbs  on  the  coast  and  the  lofty  villa-suburbs, 
Quartier  d'Isly  (PL  B,  4,  5),  Telemly  (PL  A,  5,  6),  and  Mustaplia- 
Superieur  (PL  A,  7,8),  which  last  is  little  frequented  except  in 
winter,  have  all  been  brought  within  the  precincts  of  the  town. 

a.  Lower  Quarter  of  the  Old  Town. 

The  chief  business  parts  of  the  town  are  the  arcades,  with  their 
numerous  shops,  in  the  Rue  Bab-Azoun  (PL  C,  2,  3)  and  Rue  Bab 
el-Oued  (PL  C,  2;  p.  224),  the  Place  du  Gouvernement  (PLC,  2; 
p.  223) ,  the  focus  of  all  the  tramways,  and  above  all  the  spacious 
Place  de  la  Republique  (PL  0,3),  with  the  gardens  of  Square 
Bresson  (band,  see  p.  220),  adorned  with  bamboos  and  magnolias,  the 
Thedtre  Municipal  (p.  220) ,  and  the  most  showy  cafes.  Between 
these  two  places  and  the  sea,  at  a  height  of  65  ft.  above  the  quay  and 
its  warehouses,  run  the  uniform  rows  of  houses  of  the  Boulevakd 
de  France  (PL  D,  2;  p.  223),  the  Boulevard  de  la  Republique, 
completed  in  1866,  and  the  Boulevard  Oarnot  (PL  C,  3, 4),  with  the 
new  Prefecture  (PL  23;  C,  4)  in  the  Moorish  style  (1910).  These 
streets,  together  l  M.  long,  form  a  coast-promenade,  whence  in  clear 
weather  we  enjoy  a  splendid  *View  of  the  blue  bay,  the  Atlas  Mts. 
of  Blida,  and  the  distant  Jurjura  chain  (p.  258).  In  stormy  weather, 
however,  the  Rampe  de  l'Amiraute  (PLD,  2;  p.  223)  and  the  Boul. 
Amiral  Pierre  (PL  C,  D,  1,  2;  p.  224)  attract  many  walkers. 

The  sole  Harbour,  prior  to  the  French  period,  was  the  Ancien 
Port,  or  Darse  de  I'AmirauU  (PL  D ,  2) ,  constructed  by  Kheir- 
eddin  Barbarossa,  once  a  nest  of  piratical  vessels,  and  now  a  torpedo- 
boat  station  and  anchorage  for  yachts  and  fishing-boats.  The  new 
Port  de  Commerce  and  Port  Militaire,  213  acres  in  area,  with  the 
Quai  de  la  Marine,  which  was  extended  in  1908,  have  been  formed 
since  1848  at  a  cost  of  46  million  francs.  They  are  protected  by 
the  wave-beaten  Jetee  du  Nord,  984  yds.  long,  the  prolongation 
of  the  old  Jetee  of  Kheireddin  (comp.  p.  221),  and  by  the  Jetee  du 


Barbour.  ALGIERS.  ^4.  Route.     223 

Sud,  1350  yds.  in  length.  The  entrance  is  268  yds.  in  breadth.  A 
second  commercial  harbour,  the  Arriire-Port  (PI.  C.  D,  5,  6),  was 
begun  in  1898,  but  is  still  uncompleted. 

The  harbour  is  approached  by  the  Bampes  Magenta,  descend- 
ing from  Boul.  Carnot  to  the  principal  railway-station  (p.  217), 
by  the  Rampes  Ciuisseloup-Laubat ,  connecting  the  Boul.  de  la 
Republique  with  the  Douane  (PL  D,  3)  and  with  the  warehouses 
and  offices  of  the  French  steamboat-companies,  and  by  the  Rampe 
de  V  Amiraute  (PL  D,  2),  on  the  old  Jetee  of  Kheireddin.  This  jetty 
or  quay,  the  oldest  of  all,  connects  the  old  Porte  de  France  on  the 
mainland  (once  the  Turkish  sea-gate)  with  what  was  once  the  is- 
land of  Pciion  (p.  221),  now  the  Presqu'ile  de  V Amiraute'.  "Walkers 
may  descend  also  by  the  Escaliers  du  Bastion  Central,  opposite 
the  Square  Bresson  (p.  222),  or  from  the  Place  du  Gouvernement 
by  the  Escaliers  de  la  Peclierie,  past  the  mosque  of  that  name 
and  the  Fish  Market,  which  is  worth  seeing  in  the  early  morning. 

On  the  Quai  du  Nord,  between  the  approach  to  the  fish-market 
and  the  old  Porte  de  France,  a  pretty  Turkish  Fountain  has  been 
preserved.  Adjoining  the  neo-Moorish  Palais  de  V Amiraute"  (P1.D,2) 
is  the  Turkish  Gate,  with  two  heraldic  animals  (panthers?),  an 
interesting  relic  of  the  Bordj  Ras  el-Moul  which  was  burned  down 
in  1816.  We  notice  also  several  muzzle-loading  guns  built  into 
1  hi'  wall,  now  serving  as  bulkheads  or  as  posts  for  mooring  vessels. 
Visitors  are  not  admitted  to  the  Phare  (PL  D,  2;  lighthouse),  a 
relic  of  the  Turkish  fort  erected  in  1544  on  the  site  of  the  Spanish 
castle  of  Pefi6n,  nor  to  the  small  Station  Zoologique  (PL  D,  2). 

We  now  follow  the  Boul.  de  France,  past  the  handsome  Palais 
Consulaire  (PL  19,  D  2;  chamber  of  commerce,  exchange,  etc.), 
to  the  — 

Place  du  Gouvernement,  the  noisiest  place  in  the  town,  crowd- 
ed with  natives  at  all  hours  (concerts,  see  p.  220).  The  equestrian 
statue,  in  bronze,  of  the  Duke  of  Orleans  (1810-42),  a  distinguished 
general  in  the  Algerian  campaigns,  is  by  the  Piedmontese  Carlo 
Marocchetti  (1845).  Behind  the  statue,  and  half  concealed  by  the 
Boul.  de  France,  is  the  curiously  incongruous  — 

Mosquee  de  la  Peclierie  (PL  16,  D  2 ;  Arabic  Jdma  el- 
Jcdid,  new  mosque),  erected  by  Turkish  architects  in  1660  for 
adherents  of  the  Hanefite  ritual  (p.  445).  It  is  a  cruciform  building 
with  nave  and  aisles,  a  huge  central  dome  tastelessly  painted  in- 
side, a  rich  marble  pulpit  of  Italian  workmanship,  and  a  square 
minaret  (now  clock-tower).  Entrance  in  the  Rampe  de  la  Pecherie 
(adm.,  see  p.  220). 

A  few  paces  to  the  E.  of  the  Place  du  Gouvernement,  adjoining 
the  Rue  de  la  Marine  (PL  D,  2),  the  harbour-street  of  the  Turkish 
and  early  French  period,  is  the  small  Place  de  la  Pecherie,  the 
site  of  the  pirates'  Slave  Market. 


224     Rente  34.  ALGIERS.  Jardin  Marengo. 

Close  by  is  the  Great  Mosque  (PI.  15,  D  2;  Arabic  Jdma  el- 
Kebir),  the  oldest  and  largest  mosque  in  the  town,  founded  in  1018 
for  believers  in  the  Malekite  ritual,  but  often  altered  since  then. 
Both  the  mosque  and  its  minaret,  originally  built  by  the  Abdel- 
wadite  Abu  Takhfin  (p.  190)  in  1322-3,  have  now  been  modernized. 
The  entrance  is  by  a  portico  in  the  Rue  de  la  Marine,  erected  in 
1837  with  materials  from  a  mosque  of  the  Jenina  (p.  225),  leading 
into  a  court,  embellished  with  a  Turkish  fountain,  and  to  the 
unadorned  sacred  building  itself,  with  its  eleven  aisles  or  arcades 
and  horseshoe  arches  resting  on  low  pillars. 

The  quarter  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Rue  de  la  Marine,  between 
Boul.  Amiral-Pierre  (PI.  C,D,  1,2)  and  Rue  Bab  el-Oued  (see  below), 
is  inhabited  mainly  by  Italians  and  natives  and  still  contains  many 
mediaeval  features  in  its  sombre  lanes  and  passages.  Soon  after 
entering  it,  we  come  to  a  pleasing  Turkish  House,  Rue  Duquesne, 
No.  15,  in  the  small  square  of  that  name,  with  a  marble  portal 
and  a  two-storied  court. 

The  building  of  the  Conseil  General  (PI.  5a,  D  2;  adm.,  see 
p.  220),  close  by,  Rue  de  la  Charte  No.  5,  agood  example  of  Moorish- 
Turkish  architecture,  with  its  Renaissance  portal,  was  the  British 
consulate  in  the  Turkish  period.  No.  29,  in  the  adjoining  Rue 
d'Orleans,  has  a  remarkably  rich  Italian  Renaissance  portal. 

The  short  Rue  du  Quatorze-Juin,  the  last  houses  in  the  Rue 
des  Consuls  (PI.  D,  2) ,  occupied  by  the  other  European  consuls  in 
the  Turkish  period,  and  the  adjacent  narrow  Rue  Navarin  and  Rue 
Jean-Bart,  all  have  the  character  of  the  Kasba  quarter  (p.  227). 

The  narrow  passage  called  Rue  des  Postes  leads  here  to  the 
Rue  Volland  (PI.  C,  1),  the  cross-street  between  Boul.  Amiral-Pierre 
and  the  Avenue  Bab  el-Oued  (PI.  C,  1).  Here,  on  the  right,  arc 
the  barracks  and  the  Kursaal  Theatre  (p.  220) ,  and  on  the  left 
the  Lycee  National,  on  the  site  of  the  Turkish  janissaries'  barracks. 

The  Rampe  Valee  ascending  hence  to  the  Kasba  quarter  skirts 
the  *Jardin  Marengo  (PI.  C,  1),  a  public  park,  laid  out  in 
1834-47  on  the  site  of  the  Mohammedan  cemetery ;  the  grounds, 
with  their  wealth  of  palms,  yuccas,  and  bamboos,  climb  the  hill- 
side as  far  as  the  mosque  of  Sidi  Abderrahman  (p.  228). 

We  now  return  by  the  Rue  Bab  el-Oued  (PI.  C,  2;  p.  222)  to 
the  Place  du  Gouvernement.  Halfway ,  in  the  Rue  de  la  Kasba 
(p.  227),  rises  on  the  right  the  church  of  Notre-Dame  des  Vic- 
toires  (PI.  8;  C,  2),  formerly  a  mosque  (Jdma  Bitehnin,  of  1622). 

From  the  W.  side  of  the  Place  du  Gouvernement  (p.  223)  the 
Rue  du  Divan  and  Rue  du  Soudan  lead  to  the  small  Place  Mala- 
koff,  on  the  E.  side  of  which,  between  these  streets,  rises  the  — 

*Archeveche  (PI.  1,  0  2;  archbishop's  palace),  the  finest  and 
but  little  modernized  relic  of  the  Jenina  founded  by  Horuk  Barbar- 
ossa  (p.  221)  in  1516.   In  the  course  of  centuries  this  residence  of 


National  Library-  ALGIERS.  34.  Route.     225 

the  beys  was  gradually  extended  to  the  Rue  Jenina  and  the  Rue 
small,  and  in  1816  was  at  length  superseded  by  the  Kasba 
(p.  227).    The  entrance  is  by  the  Renaissance  portal  (adm.,  see 
p.  220;  apply  to  the  concierge). 

The  fine  court,  with  its  two  stories  and  horseshoe  arches  resting  on 
slender  winding  columns,  is  remarkable  for  its  harmonious  proportions. 
Tin'  walls  are  adorned  with  tiles  of  little  value,  but  the  rich  wrought- 
iron  gratings  of  the  windows  deserve  notice.  The  upper  story,  whose 
galleries  have  small  domed  chambers  at  the  four  corners,  is  adjoined  by 
rooms  sumptuously  decorated  like  those  of  the  Alcazar  at  Seville  (p.  61). 
We  note  in  particular  the  lavish  ornamentation  in  stucco,  the  elegant 
window -shutters,  restored  in  part,  and  the  beautiful  ceilings  in  cedar 
and  oak  panelling.  The  room  converted  into  a  chapel  has  been  mater- 
ially altered. 

The  Cathedral  (PI.  3,0  2;  St.  Philippe),  on  the  W.  side  of 
the  same  Place,  built  since  1843  in  a  strangely  mingled  Moorish 
and  Romanesque  style,  occupies  the  site  of  the  Kefshdtva  Mosque. 
erected  by  Hassan  Pasha  in  1791  (see  below).  The  fagade  is  adorned 
with  two  towers  resembling  minarets.  The  first  chapel  contains 
the  bones  of  the  so-called  Geronimo,  a  Christian  Arab  (comp. 
p.  230),  who  is  said  to  have  been  immured  alive  in  1569. 

The  Palais  d'Hiver  clu  Gouvemeur  (PL  21,  C  2;  adm.,  see 
p.  220),  built  by  Hassan  Pasha  (1791-9),  like  the  National  Library 
(see  below),  is  one  of  the  latest  specimens  of  Moorish -Turkish 
architecture  in  Algeria;  but  it  lias  been  entirely  remodelled  to 
suit  its  present  purpose  and  has  been  provided  with  a  new  facade. 
Above  the  old  portal,  Rue  du  Soudan  No.  5  (now  Bureau  Arabe;  see 
p.  174),  is  a  pretty  carved  projecting  roof.  No.  7,  next  door,  has 
a  rich  marble  portal.  The  roof  affords  a  good  survey  of  the  whole 
of  the  Jenina  buildings. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Place  Malakoff,  in  the  Rue  de  PEtat-Major, 
No.  12,  on  the  left,  is  the  — 

National  Library  (PL  2 ;  C,  2),  in  the  old  palace  of  Mustapha 
Pasha  (1799-1805),  containing  about  40,000  vols,  and  2000  MSS. 
Adm.,  see  p.  220.    Librarian,  M.  E.  Maupas. 

Adjoining  the  vestibule  (skiifa),  adorned  with  clustered  columns  and 
Delft  rayence,  on  the  left,  is  the  two-storied  *Quadrangle,  similar  to 
that  of  the  archiepiscopal  palace.  In  the  gallery  of  the  first  floor  arc 
views  of  Old  Algiers  (including  the  bombardment  by  the  British  fleet  in 
1824).  Adjacent  are  two  small  reading-rooms  containing  a  valuable  col- 
lection of  Arabic.  Berber,  and  Turkish  MSS.  (shown  only  on  application 
to  the  curator  M.  Abdeltif).  The  charters  of  the  Turkish  period  also  are 
important. 

The  Bureau.,'  du  Gouvernement ,  Rue  Bruce  10,  which  once 
belonged  to  tin;  Jenina  buildings,  also  are  worth  seeing  (apply 
to  the  governor's  secretary).  So,  too,  is  the  pleasing  Dwelling 
House,  Rue  Socgemah  12  (now  owned  by  M.  Ratto,  goldsmith; 
p.  220). — The  old  Dtir  Soof  (wool-exchange),  Rue  de  l'intendance  1, 
one  of  the  most  ornate  Mauro- Turkish  buildings  in  the  town,  is 
now  a  private  house  and  can  be  seen  only  by  special  introduction. 


226     Route  34.  ALGIERS.  «•  Quarters. 

We  now  turn  to  the  E.  to  visit  the  Rue  de  Chartres  or  the  Rue 
de  la  Lyre  (PI.  C,  2,  3),  which,  like  the  neighbouring  Rue  Randon 
in  the  Kasba  quarter  (p.  227),  contain  countless  little  shops  kept 
by  Jews  and  Mozabites  (p.  216).  The  Marchi  de  Chartres  and 
the  Marche"  de  la  Lyre  (PI.  14;  C,  3)  are  the  chief  provision 
markets.  In  the  afternoon  the  former  is  devoted  to  the  sale  of 
second-hand  goods.  The  Rue  de  Chartres  and  the  two  flights  of 
steps  in  the  Place  de  la  Lyre,  next  to  the  theatre,  lead  back  to  the 
Place  de  la  Republique  (p.  222). 

To  the  S.  of  the  Place  de  la  Republique  are  the  uew  quarters 
of  the  town.  At  the  beginning  of  the  Rue  de  Constantine  (PI.  0, 
3,  4),  on  the  left,  is  the  new  Palais  de  Justice  (PL  20;  C,  3),  in 
the  pseudo-classical  style.  On  the  right  is  the  new-Romanesque 
church  of  St.  Augustin  (PI.  9;  C,  3). 

At  the  back  of  this  church  runs  the  Rue  Dumont-d'Urville 
(PI.  C,  3),  passing  almost  immediately  on  the  left  the  Rue  de  Tan- 
ger,  in  which  rises  the  small  Mosque  of  the  Mozabites  (p.  216), 
and  leading  to  the  long  and  monotonous  Rue  d'Isly  (PI.  C,  4). 
The  latter  crosses  the  Place  d'Isly  (PI.  0,  4),  where  a  monument, 
has  been  erected  to  Marshal  Bugeaud  (1784-1849),  the  conqueror 
of  Abd  el-Kader  (p.  221). 

Farther  on  in  the  Rue  de  Constantine,  on  the  left,  at  No.  32  is 
the  Musce  Municipal  des  Beaux-Arts  (adm.,  see  p.  220),  con- 
taining a  small  collection  of  pictures  mostly  by  French  painters. 

The  Rue  de  Constantine  and  Rue  d'Isly  reach  the  boundary  of 
the  old  town  at  the  new  Post  Office  (PI.  22,  0  4;  p.  219),  a  neo- 
Moorish  building  (1910),  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Boulevard  Lafek- 
riere  (PI.  C,  4,  5;  p.  222),  or  Boul.  Militaire  Sud.  To  the  right, 
above,  are  the  handsome  offices  of  the  Depeche  Algerienne  (p.  220), 
in  the  neo-Moorish  style.  The  open  space  on  the  left,  down  by 
the  sea,  is  destined  for  the  future  Central  Station. 

From  Boul.  Laferriere  to  Mustapha-Suptrieur,  see  pp.  231, 
230;  to  Belcourt  and  Le  Harnma,  see  p.  232. 


b.  The  Kasba. 

To  avoid  the  steep  ascents  in  the  Kasba  Quarter  we  take  the  tram- 
way (No.  6,  p.  219)  to  the  Prison  Civile,  glance  at  the  Mohammedan  Ceme- 
tery and  the  Kasba  Barracks,  and  then  descend  from  the  Boul.  de  la 
Victoire  by  one  or  other  of  the  streets  (very  slippery  in  wet  weather) 
between  the  Eue  de  la  Kasba  (PI.  C,  2)  and  Boul.  Gainbetta  (PI.  B,  C,  3). 
It  should  be  noted  that  all  the  ascending  streets  lead  to  the  Boulevard 
de  la  Victoire,  and  the  descending  streets  to  Rue  Randon  or  Rue  Marengo. 
Ladies  in  particular  may  sometimes  gain  admission  to  one  of  the  better 
Moorish  houses  (comp.  p.  xxvi),  where  they  should  not  omit  to  see  the 
view  from  the  roof.  A  walk  through  the  Kasba  quarter  by  moonlight  is 
delightful,  but  safe  only  for  a  considerable  party. 


Easba  Quarter.  ALGIERS.  84.  Route.      227 

The  *Kasba  Quarter  (PI.  B,  C,  2,  3),  the  almost  unaltered 
main  portion  of  old  Algiers,  bounded  by  the  Eue  Randon,  Rue 
Marengo,  and  Roul.  de  la  Victoire,  lies  on  the  hill-side  below  the 
Kasha,  the  old  castle  and  afterwards  the  residence  of  the  Turkish 
rulers,  and  still  presents  a  highly  attractive  picture  of  Oriental  life, 
though  partly  inhabited  by  Maltese  and  Spaniards  as  well  as  by 
Mohammedans  of  various  races  and  creeds  (p.  171).  A  few  streets 
only,  with  small  mosques,  coffee-houses,  and  shops,  show  signs  of 
life  in  the  daytime,  and  that  chiefly  on  Fridays  and  Sundays.  Most 
of  the  streets,  however,  often  only  6-7  ft.  wide,  with  their  jutting 
upper  stories  and  balconies  supported  by  brackets  of  beams,  and 
the  numerous  blind  alleys  and  sombre  vaulted  passages  are  shrouded 
in  silence,  while  their  bare,  almost  windowless  walls  and  their  closed 
doors,  marked  with  the  sign  of  the  warning  hand  (p.  81),  enhance 
their  impenetrable  mystery. 

The  chief  business  street  of  the  Kasba  is  the  Rub  Randon 
(PI.  C,  2,  3;  comp.  p.  226),  especially  the  S.  part  of  it  with  its 
shops,  between  the  Marche  dc  la  Lyre  (p.  226)  and  the  Synagogue 
(PI.  24,  C  2 ;  adm.,  see  p.  220),  a  building  with  a  huge  dome  and 
three  women's  galleries. 

The  Rue  de  la  Girafe  and  Rue  Caton,  the  last  two  side-streets 
before  the  Synagogue,  ascend  to  the  Rue  Kleber  (PI.  C,  2),  where. 
at  the  crossing  of  the  Rue  d'Anfreville  and  Rue  du  Palmier,  opposite 
an  Arabian  coffee-house,  rises  the  small  Mosque  of  Sidi  Mohammed 
tch-Cli&riff  (PI.  17;  C,  2). 

The  Rue  d'Anfreville  leads  to  the  left  to  the  long  Rue  de  la 
Porte-Neuve  (PI.  C,  2,  3),  a  street  starting  from  the  Rue  de  la  Lyre 
(p.  226).  A  little  way  down  we  may  visit  its  side-streets,  Rue  des 
Dattes  and  Rue  Medee,  and  then  return  by  the  Rue  de  la  Mer  Rouge 
to  the  upper  part  of  the  Rue  Kleber.  We  may  next  follow  the  Rue 
du  Palmier  (see  above)  and  the  Rue  Annibal,  or  its  side-street  Rue 
Tombouctou,  to  the  long  and  steep  Rue  de  la  Kasba  (PI.  C,  2), 
which  ascends  in  steps  from  the  Rue  Bab  el-Oued  (p.  224)  to  the 
Kasba  barracks. 

The  small  square  at  the  top  of  the  Rue  de  la  Kasba,  adjoining 
the  Boulevard  de  la  Victoire  (PI.  B,  C,  2),  is  a  resort  of  jugglers 
and  story-tellers,  with  their  admiring  audience. 

Passing  the  Prison  Civile  (PI.  B,  C,  2;  on  the  right),  and 
crossing  the  moat,  we  may  now  visit  the  Mohammedan  Cimetiere 
d'el-Kettar  (PI.  B,  2),  prettily  situated  on  the  slope  above  the 
Frais-  Vallon  (p.  234) 

The  Kasba  (PI.  B,  2;  427  ft.),  originally  an  octagonal  pile  of 
buildings,  surrounded  by  large  gardens,  was  erected  by  Horuk 
Barbarossa  in  1516,  but  was  afterwards  much  altered.  In  1816-30 
it  was  the  residence  of  the  deys  (comp.  p.  221),  and  now  serves  as  the 


228     Rotde  34.  ALGIERS.  MustaphaSupiHeur. 

Zouave  barracks.  The  large  two-storied  quadrangle  in  the  Mauro- 
Turkish  style  is  a  relic  of  the  original  building.  The  old  mosque  is 
now  used  as  a  storehouse.    Adrn.,  see  p.  220. 

The  road  to  El-Biar  (p.  234)  leads  through  the  Kasba  and  then  tra- 
verses the  old  Quartier  des  Tagarins  (ooinp.  p.  221),  which  extended  to 
the  Porte  du  Sahel  (PL  B,  3). 

From  the  Prison  Civile  the  steep  Boulevard  Valee  (PI.  0,  2; 
p.  222)  leads  back  to  the  town,  the  lower  part  commanding  a  superb 
*View  of  Algiers  and  its  bay. 

This  boulevard  joins  the  Rue  Marengo,  opposite  the  Medersa 
(PI.  C,  2 ;  adm.,  see  p.  220),  opened  in  1904,  one  of  the  three  recently 
founded  Mohammedan  colleges  of  Algeria,  a  building  in  an  appro- 
priate neo-Moorish  style.  No.  46,  nearly  opposite,  is  the  pretty 
little  Medersa  of  the  Turkish  period. 

The  *Mosque  of  Sidi  Abderrakman  (PI.  18,  C  2;  adm.,  see 
p.  220),  built  in  1696  and  dedicated  to  the  learned  marabout  Sidi 
Abderrahman  et-Tsalbi  (1387-1468),  the  chief  saint  of  the  Tsaliba 
(p.  221),  has  no  attraction  beyond  its  elegant  minaret,  adorned  with 
coloured  tiles;  but  its  situation  near  the  Jardin  Marengo  (p.  224), 
and  the  charming  view  it  commands,  are  most  impressive.  The 
kubba  of  the  saint  is  bedecked,  as  is  usual  in  the  case  of  such  tombs, 
with  flags,  ostrich-eggs,  and  other  offerings.  The  small  burial- 
grounds  attached  are  relics  of  the  chief  Mohammedan  cemetery 
(p.  224). 

c.  Mustapha-Superieur  and  Environs. 

The  narrow  coast -plain,  here  called  Plahie  de  Mvstapha,  is  the  some- 
what abrupt  margin  of  the  Sahel,  to  the  S.  of  the  old  town,  on  which  lie 
the  Quartier  d'Isly,  Teletidi/,  and  Mustapha-Supe'rieur,  where  the  white 
villas  dating  from  the  Turkish  period,  with  their  superb  gardens  and 
luxuriant  orchards,  are  occupied  chiefly  by  English  and  American  residents. 
This  is  the  favourite  promenade  of  foreign  visitors.  Tramways  Nos.  1,  2, 
and  3,  see  pp.  218,  219.  To  avoid  ascents  the  traveller  had  better  begin 
his  walk  at  the  terminus  of  line  No.  2  or  No.  3. 

The  main  street  of  *Mustapka-Superieur  is  theRuEMiciiE- 
let  (PL  B,  A,  5-8),  a  street  nearly  21/2  M.  long,  in  line  with  the  Rue 
d'Isly.  The  first  third  of  it  is  uninteresting.  It  passes  the  former 
Academie  (PL  B,5),  situated  on  a  high  terrace  below  the  Quartier 
d'Isly,  which  was  converted  iuto  a  university  in  1909  (1442  stud- 
ents). Farther  on  the  road  leads  through  the  suburb  of  Agha- 
Superieur  to  the  (7->  M.)  so-called  Plateau  Sauliere  (PL  B,  6,  7 ; 
tramway-terminus,  Station  Sanitaire;  p.  218). 

The  upper  Rue  Michelet,  which,  in  spite  of  its  steep  hills,  is 
the  most  fashionable  drive  in  Algiers,  ascends,  partly  in  windings, 
past  the  hotels  (p.  217),  a  number  of  handsome  villas,  and  several 
charming  points  of  view,  to  the  top  of  the  Sahel.  Beyond  the 
Scottish  Church  (p.  220)  at  the  first  sharp  bend  in  the  road,  rises, 
behind  the  view-terrace  of  the  Museum  Garden,  the  — 


Museum.  ALGIERS.  84.  Route.     229 

*Museum  (Musee  National  des  AnUquiUs  Ahjeriennes;  PI. 
A,  6,  7),  opened  in  1S97,  containing  the  finest  collection  of  the  kind 
in  Algeria.  Adm.,  see  p.  220.  Catalogue  rather  old  (1899).  Direc- 
tor, M.  Stephane  Gsell. 

The  Garden  contains  a  dolmen  (of  the  Beni -Messous)  from  Guyot- 
ville  (p.  237),  Roman  tomhstones,  vases,  etc. 

In  the  Vestibule  are  views  of  Old  Algiers,  from  the  17th  cent,  onwards. 
Over  the  inner  door  is  an  early-Christian  mosaic  from  Rusguniae  (p.  248) 
representing  Christ  as  the  Good  Shepherd.  —  The  Court  contains  modem 
views  of  Algiers  and  Arabic,  Jewish,  and  Turkish  inscriptions.  In  the 
centre  is  a  Roman  mosaic  from  Sila,  representing  Scylla  (p.  155)  and  marine 
deities.  —  On  the  right  is  — 

Room  I.  The  cases  in  the  middle  and  most  of  the  wall-presses 
contain  prehistoric  antiquities  from  the  provinces  of  Algeria  and  Oran 
and  from  the  Sahara,  including  the  Flamand  collection  (1889-90).  Along 
the  walls  are  ranged  casts  and  copies  of  the  graffiti  or  rock-drawings  of 
Tiout  (p.  202),  Moghrar-Tahtani  (p.  203),  etc.;  Libyan  (early  Berber)  tomb- 
stelae;  on  the  end-wall  to  the  right,  a  warrior  on  horseback,  from  Abizar 
in  Great  Kabylia;  two  cases  with  relics  from  Phoenician  tombs  at  Gouraya 
(some  of  them  imported  from  Greece);  also  Punic  tomb-stehe,  etc.  —  In 
the  centre  are  a  fine  mosaic  from  Ai'n-Babouch  and  models  of  the  mauso- 
leum of  Le  Khroub  (p.  273),  of  the  so-called  Tombeau  de  la  Chretienne 
(p.  238),  and  of  the  Medracen  (p.  274). —  We  now  pass  through  R.  IV 
into  — 

Room  II.  In  the  centre  are  antique  marbles:  *Torso  of  a  Venus  (in 
the  style  of  the  Capitoline  Venus),  draped  female  *Statue  (replica  of  a 
work  of  the  age  of  Phidias;  the  head  added  later),  colossal  statue  of  Po- 
seidon U'fter  a  Greek  original  of  the  4th  cent.),  torso  of  Bacchus,  Satyr 
and  Hermaphrodite  (after  a  group  of  the  Hellenistic  period  ;  a  torso),  two 
elegant  decorative  pillars,  all  of  these  coming  from  the  so-called  museum 
of  king  Juba  at  Cherchell  (p.  214);  then  a  colossal  bust  of  Minerva  from 
Kbamissa;  bronze  ^Figure  of  a  boy  with  an  eagle,  from  Lambese'.  By  the 
wall  next  the  court  is  a  fragment  of  a  sarcophagus-relief,  Warrior  with 
wounded  Amazon  (Achilles  and  Penthesilea?).  By  the  back-wall  are  casts 
of  the  chief  antiques  of  Cherchell,  marble  busts,  including  Jupiter  Sera- 
pis  and  a  god  of  the  lower  regions,  both  from  Carthage.  The  wall-cabin- 
ets contain  Greek  and  Etruscan  vases  and  fragments  of  Roman  sculp- 
tures and  inscriptions.  Around  are  mosaics:  Boar  and  panther  hunt  from 
Orleansville;  fragment  of  a  representation  of  the  Four  Seasons,  from 
Lambese;  Europa  with  the  bull,  Jupiter  and  Antiope,  Oceanus  and  Ne- 
reids. In  the  centre  is  a  relief-plan  of  Timgad  (p.  289).  —  We  next  pass 
through  R.  V  into  — 

Room  III.  Among  the  bronzes  in  the  first  case  are  a  mask  (3rd  cent. 
B.C.)  from  El-Orimidi;  a  statuette  of  Venus  untying  her  sandal,  from 
Cherchell;  adjacent,  an  early-Christian  bronze  lamp  (5th  cent.).  Then 
come  cases  with  Greek,  Roman,  and  Mauretanian  coins,  lamps,  etc.  The 
case  by  the  wall  next  the  court  contains  early-Christian  reliquaries  (in 
terracotta).  Along  the  walls  are  ranged  Roman  and  early-Christian  in- 
scriptions, reliefs,  and  architectural  fragments;  by  the  entrance-wall  is 
the  tombstone  of  a  bishop  from  Motuaiaville  (5th  cent.);  by  the  end- 
wall  Roman  busts  (incl.  Hadrian);  a  slab  bearing  regulations  as  to  rights 
of  using  water,  from  Lamasba  I'Mcrouana);  early-Christian  sarcophagus 
from  Dellys  (4th  cent.). 

The  corner-rooms  (IV  and  V)  contain  the  Oriental  Section  (Art  of 
Islam),  which  has  received  considerable  additions  and  for  which  five 
new  rooms  are  being  prepared. 

Room  IV.  Berber  and  early  Moorish  works  of  art.  In  the  ante-room 
Berber  vases,  tissues,  and  wood-carving  from  Great  Kabylia,  etc.,  inch 
an  ancient  Kabylian  cradle.  In  the  central  ease  are  Berber  trinkets, 
chiefly  from  Great   Kabylia  (J')ra  el-Mizan;  work  of  the  Beni-Yenni),  and 


230     Route  84.  ALGIERS.  Chemin  du  Telemly. 

Tunisian  vases.  Cases  with  Algerian  bronzes  and  curiosities  from  Kalaa 
des  Beni-Hammad  (p.  270;  stucco-work,  fragments  of  vases).  Cases  and 
two  wall-presses  containing  superb  Moroccan  embroidery  (some  showing 
Spanish-Moorish  influence),  mostly  from  the  region  of  Fez.  A  large 
majolica  vase  from  Palma  (Majorca).  Also,  on  the  walls,  *Carpets  from 
the  district  of  Jebel  Amour,  from  Kalaa  (p.  207),  Kairwan,  Rabat,  and 
of  the  tribe  of  the  Rirha  (near  Setif). 

Room  V,  devoted  mainly  to  the  Mauro-Turkish  art  of  the  barbar- 
esques.  At  the  entrance  is  a  marble  portal  of  Italian  workmanship.  Stands 
with  weapons  (some  of  them  in  the  Louis  XVI.  style),  trinkets,  richly  em- 
broidered slippers,  pistol-cases,  cartridge-belts,  etc.,  and  also  gorgeous 
feminine  apparel.  On  a  stand,  with  gold  embroidery  from  mosques  and 
saints'  tombs,  is  placed  the  cast  of  the  so-called  Geronimo  (p.  225).  By 
the  walls  are  two  superb  saddles,  copper  vessels ,  furniture  inlaid  with 
mother-of-pearl,  etc. ;  presses  with  Algerian  *Embroidery  (curtains  of 
ladies'  chambers,  bath-veils,  etc.).  By  the  back-wall,  Jewesses'  costumes 
from  Constantine.     In  the  gallery  are  Smyrna  carpets. 

In  the  Rue  Michelet,  a  few  paces  farther,  beyond  the  Chemin 
du  Telemly  (see  below),  is  a  small  round  space  with  a  marble 
Statue  of  Mac  Mahon  (1808-93;  governor  of  Algeria  in  1864-70). 
Opposite,  to  the  left,  is  the  — 

Palais  d'Ete"  du  Gouverneur  (PI.  A,  7),  a  fine  neo-Moorish 
building  with  beautiful  grounds.  Adin.,  see  p.  220. 

Farther  on  we  cross  the  Chemin  de  Gascogne  or  Chemin  Ro- 
main,  the  shortest  route  from  Mustapha-lnferieur  (p.  232)  to  the 
Colonne  Voirol  (see  below).  Near  the  lower  half  of  that  road  is  the 
Orphelinat  St.  Vincent-de-Paul  (PL  A,  7),  on  the  site  of  a  villa 
of  Mustapha  Pasha  (p.  225),  to  whom  this  quarter  owes  its  name. 

Following  the  Rue  Michelet  farther  to  the  S.  we  pass,  on  the 
right,  the  new  English  Church  (p.  220),  in  the  Moorish  style.  The 
cost  of  building,  which  amounted  to  7000Z.,  was  defrayed  by  the 
French  Government  in  compensation  for  the  site  of  the  former 
English  church  which  was  required  for  the  new  post-office  (p.  226). 

Beyond  the  bifurcation  of  Boul.  Brn  (p.  231)  the  Rue  Michelet 
takes  a  sharp  turn  to  the  N.W.  and  leads  along  the  margin  of  the 
so-called  Bois  de  Boulogne  (PI.  A,  8,  9),  a  sparse  pine-wood,  to 
the  Colonne  Voirol  (689  ft.;  tramway-terminus,  see  pp.  218,  219), 
a  monument  in  memory  of  General  Voirol. 


One  of  the  finest  and  easiest  walks  atMnstapha-Superieur  is  the 
*Chemin  du  Telemly  (PI.  A ,  B ,  6-4) ,  which  diverges  to  the 
right  from  the  Rue  Michelet  just  beyond  the  Museum  garden  (p.  228) 
and  leads  along  the  slope  of  the  Sahel,  halfway  up,  passing  through 
several  verdant  ravines  {Ravin  des  Sept -Sources,  etc.),  to  the 
(1S/4M.)  Quartier  d'Isly  (PI.  B,  4,  5),  a  charming,  loftily-situated 
villa-quarter.    This  road  affords  several  splendid  views  of  the  bay. 

From  the  Quartier  d'Isly  we  may  either  descend  by  the  Rue 
Edouard-Cat  and  Avenue  Pasteur  to  the  lower  Rue  Michelet  and  the 
Rue  d'Isly  (p.-  226) ,  or  we  may  follow  the  main  road  as  far  as  the 


Boulevard  Bru.  ALGIERS.  84-  Route.      231 

town-wall,  between  the  Boul.  Laferriere  (p.  226)  and  the  Porte  du 
Sahel  (p.  233). 

Side -roads  connect  the  Chemin  du  Tolemly  with  the  Campagne 
Bellevue  (see  below)  on  one  side,  and  with  St.  Raphael  (p.  234)  on  the  other. 

As  the  road,  mostly  bordered  with  hedges,  which  leads  from 
the  Colonne  Voirol  (p.  230)  to  (iy4  M.)  El-Biar  (p.  234),  passing 
the  Campagne  Bellevue  (794  ft.)  halfway,  is  monotonous,  the 
Chemin  de  Maclay,  leading  from  the  Colonne  Voirol  to  (l3/4  M.) 
Chateau- Neuf  (p.  234),  is  far  preferable.  It  passes  through  the 
upper  valley  of  the  Oued  Knis  (see  below),  verdant  with  fruit-trees, 
eucalypti,  and  pines,  runs  to  the  N.AV.  to  the  O/2  M.)  Cafe  d' Hydra, 
and  at  the  (72  M.)  Cafe-Restaurant  du  Retour  de  la  Chasse  joins 
the  highroad  coming  from  Blida. 

A  little  way  to  the  S.W.'of  the  Colonne  Voirol,  on  the  road  from 
Algiers  to  Doue"ra  and  Boufarik  (p.  216),  is  the  beautiful  Chateau  d'Hydra, 
once  a  country-seat  of  the  Deys,  but  now  private  property. 

From  the  Colonne  Voirol  we  may  now  walk  through  the  Bois  de 
Boulogne  (p.  230),  or  follow  the  road  to  the  S.E.  in  the  valley  of  the 
Oued  Knis,  past  the  sanatorium  of  Dr.  Verhaeren  and  the  Villa 
des  Grottes  (curious  rock  sculptures,  among  others  the  expulsion  of 
Adam  and  Eve  from  Paradise),  to  (1  M.)  the  poor  agricultural  vil- 
lage of  Birmandreis  (354  ft. ;  Cafe-Restaur.  des  Platanes).  From 
Birmandreis  we  have  the  choice  of  two  routes.  We  may  walk  through 
the  Ravin  de  la  Femme  Sauvage  (to  the  N.E.  and  E.),  as  the  cool 
and  shady  lower  Oued  Knis  valley  is  popularly  called,  to  (l3/4  M.) 
the  village  of  Le  Ruisseau  (tramway  No.  4,  p.  219),  1/2  M.  beyond 
the  Jardin  d'Essai  (p.  232).  Or  we  may  take  the  road  (to  the  S.E. 
and  E.),  through  orchards  and  market-gardens,  and  across  a  fine 
open  hill,  to  the  (l'/4  M.)  poor  village  of  Vieux-Kouba  and  (^  M.) 
Kouba  (p.  233). 

From  the  Rue  Michelet  the  Boulevard  Bru  (PI.  A-C,  8,  9; 
p.  230;  tramway  No.  3,  see  p.  219)  leads  between  villas,  affording 
near  the  farther  end  a  beautiful  view  of  Algiers,  to  (3/4  M.)  the  Ci- 
metiire  de  Mustapha  (PI.  C,  9),  incorporating  the  English  Cemetery. 
Here  at  the  tramway-terminus  the  Boul.  Bru  joins  the  Chemin  de 
Fontaine-Bleue,  a  road  coming  up  from  Mustapha-Inferieur  (p.  232). 
We  follow  the  latter  road  straight  on  to  its  junction  with  the 
Chemin  Shakespeare  or  des  Cretes,  beyond  which,  in  the  same 
direction,  the  Rue  Laurent-Pichat  brings  us  to  the  (*/4  M.)  Villa 
Sesini  (PI.  D,  9),  superbly  situated  above  Belcourt  (p.  232).  Straight 
on  we  follow  the  Rue  de  Behagle,  a  narrow  field-road  diverging 
from  the  Rue  Laurent-Pichat;  this  road  after  5  min.  leads  to  the 
left,  through  a  small  oak-copse  and  past  the  Fort  des  Arcades 
(PI.  D,  9),  to  the  verge  of  the  plateau  (* Bench  with  view)  and  then, 
taking  the  name  of  Chemin  des  Arcades,  goes  on  to  the  hill-garden 
of  the  Jardin  d'Essai  (see  p.  232). 

Babdekek's  Mediterranean.  15 


232     Route  34.  ALGIERS.  Jardin  d'Essai. 

d.  The  S.E.  Suburbs. 

The  only  attractions  here  are  the  Mohammedan  Cemetery  at  Belcourt 
(near  the  Marabout  station  of  tramway  No.  4;  p.  219)  and  the  Jardin 
d'Essai.  It  is  best  to  go  to  the  latter  by  the  inner  line,  just  mentioned, 
and  to  return  by  No.  5,  the  outer  line. 

The  suburbs  of  Agha-Inferieur,  with  its  railway-station  (p.  217) 
and  the  new  Arriere-Port  (p.  223),  Mustapha-Inferieur,  Belcourt, 
and  Le  Hamma,  together  with  the  adjacent  little  town  of  Hussein- 
Dey,  are  the  industrial  quarters  of  Algiers. 

Along  the  coast,  beyond  Boul.  Laferriere  (p.  226),  run  the  Rue 
Baudin  (PLC,  5),  in  line  with  the  Rue  de  Constantine  (p.  226),  and 
the  Rue  Sadi-Carnot  (PI.  B-E,  5-8),  over  2x/2  M.  long,  from  which, 
at  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  Champ  de  Manoeuvres  (PI.  C ,  7 ;  also  a 
race  -  course) ,  diverges  the  Rue  de  Lyon  (PI.  B-E,  7-9),  2  M.  in 
length,  the  route  of  the  inner  tramway-line  (No.  4). 

The  unattractive  Rue  de  Lyon  leads  to  (about  8/i'M.-)  the  Cime- 
tiere  Musulman  de  Belcourt  (PI.  D,  9) ,  the  finest  Moham- 
medan burial-ground  in  Algiers,  containing  a  number  of  handsome 
monuments  and  the  picturesque  Kubba  of  Sidi  Abderrahman  Bu- 
Kobrin  (d.  1793),  a  famous  Algerian  saint,  a  native  of  Great  Kab- 
ylia.  Adm.,  see  p.  220.  As  a  rule  only  the  side-entrance  in  the 
Rue  Colonel-Combes  is  open. 

The  so-called  Grotte  de  Cervantes  (PI.  D,  9),  with  a  bust  and 
memorial  tablet  of  the  famous  Spanish  author,  who  lived  in  captivity  at 
Algiers  in  1575-80,  is  said  to  have  been  his  hiding-place  when  attempting 
to  escape.  Ascending  a  road  from  the  end  of  the  Rue  Col.  Combes 
beyond  the  cemetery,  we  follow  a  (5  min.)  path  to  the  left,  and  turning 
to  the  left  again,  somewhat  downhill,  we  reach  the  (9  min.)  grotto. 

The  Rue  de  Lyon  next  leads  through  the  suburb  of  Le  Hamma 
to  the  ('/2M.)  *  Jardin  d'Essai  (PI.  E,  9;  adm.,  see  p.  220),  or 
Jardin  du  Hamma,  the  botanic  garden  of  Algiers  and  at  the  same 
time  a  nursery-garden  and  public  promenade.  Founded  by  govern- 
ment in  1832  and  frequently  extended,  it  became  the  property  of 
the  Compagnie  Algerienne  (p.  219)  in  1878.  In  wealth  of  vegetation 
it  vies  with  the  botanic  gardens  of  Palermo  and  Lisbon,  which, 
however,  have  been  more  advantageously  laid  out.  It  consists  of 
two  sections:  a  hill-garden  on  the  verge  of  the  Sahel  plateau  and 
the  main  garden  in  the  once  marshy,  but  now  extremely  fertile 
coast-plain. 

Opposite  the  S.  Entrance  of  the  main  garden,  in  the  Rue  de  Lyon, 
is  the  dilapidated  Mauro-Turkish  Fontaine  du  Hamma  (16th  cent.).  From 
this  point,  near  the  small  Hot.-Restaurant  du  Chateau  Rouge,  the  Chemin 
des  Arcades  (p.  231)  ascends  to  the  Hill  Garden,  a  wooded  park,  with 
tall  araucarias,  huge  eucalypti,  and  other  trees. 

Through  the  Main  Garden  a  magnificent  avenue  of  planes  runs 
from  the  chief  entrance  towards  the  sea.  Halfway  is  a  circular  space 
with  a  cafe.  The  W.  half  of  the  garden,  to  the  left  of  the  avenue,  is 
occupied  by  the  less  interesting  nursery-garden. 

The  E.  half  of  the  garden  is  intersected  by  shady  walks  at  right 
angles  to  each  other.  Parallel  with  the  main  avenue  are  the  narrower 
dragon-tree  and  palm  avenue  and  the  magnolia  and  fig-tree  avenue.    The 


■p    '-Ti.Aej-ain        ■    .     ■ 


k^-   .    ■'r    '—Ti.tia-aiJi 


'Grave  et  imprime  par  Wagner A-Debes.leipzi 


Kouba.  ALGIERS.  34.  Route.     233 

chief  cross-walks,  parallel  with  the  Rue  deLyon,  are  the  date-palm,  the 
bamboo,  and  the  dwarf-palm  and  rose  avenues.  From  the  S.  entrance 
we  turn  at  once  to  the  right  into  the  date-palm  avenue,  where,  from  the 
steps  opposite  the  offices  ('administration'),  we  have  a  charming  view  of 
the  dragon-tree  and  palm  avenue.  Then,  passing  the  magnolia  and  fig-tree 
avenue,  we  go  straight  to  the  S.  angle  of  the  garden,  where  we  are  struck 
with  the  profusion  of  tropical  plants,  outstanding  among  which  are  the 
huge  Ficus  nitida  with  its  exposed  roots  and  a  group  of  yuccas  (the  rare 
Yucca  draconia  and  other  palm-lilies).  A  little  lower  down,  near  the 
artitiii.il  island  with  its  aquatic  plants,  are  a  group  of  *Strelitzias  and 
(beyond  a  tall  Livistona  australis)  a  beautiful  little  palm-grove.  We  next 
follow  the  *Bamboo  walk,  and  from  it  turn  to  the  right  into  the  ♦Dragon- 
tree  (p.  30)  and  palm  avenue,  which  leads  towards  the  sea.  Farther  on, 
to  the  left,  beyond  the  dwarf-palm  (Chamasrops  excelsa)  and  rose  avenue, 
is  the  small  Zoologie  (adm.,  see  p.  220),  with  a  few  specimens  of  Algerian 
animals. 

Opposite  the  N.  Entrance,  in  the  Rue  Sadi-Carnot,  at  the  station 
of  the  outer  tramway-line,  rises  a  group  of  date-palms,  where  the  cafes 
Oasis  des  Palmiers  and  Closerie  des  Palmiers  are  much  frequented  by 
the  citizens  in  the  afternoon  (dej.  2'/j,  D.  3  fr.).  Beyond  the  railway  line, 
from  the  shore  near  the  sea-baths  (p.  219;  restaur.),  we  obtain  a  delightful 
*View  of  Algiers.  When  the  wind  is  to  the  N.  or  N.W.  the  breakers  here 
are  grander  than  at  the  Rampe  de  l'Amiraute  (p.  223). 

The  Rue  Sadi-Carnot  ends  at  the  Oued  Knis  (p.  231),  on  the  out- 
skirts of  the  small  town  of  Hussein-Dey  (Hot.  de  la  Gare;  rail- 
way and  tramway  station;  see  pp.  217,  247),  where  the  Tobacco 
Factory  has  swallowed  up  the  villa  of  the  last  deys  of  Algeria. 
The  inhabitants  (5700)  are  mostly  Spaniards  from  the  Balearic 
Islands  ('Mahonnais'),  who  grow  early  vegetables. 

From  Hussein-Dey  to  Maison-Carrie,  see  p.  247. 

From  the  village  of  Le  Ruisseau  (p.  231),  at  the  end  of  the  Rue 
de  Lyon  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ravin  de  la  Femme  Sauvage,  a 
road  ascends  in  windings  to  the  (l'/4  M.)  village  of  Kouba  (427  ft. ; 
tramway  No.  4,  see  p.  219),  in  a  charming,  well-wooded  site.  At 
the  entrance  to  the  village,  on  the  site  of  a  kubba,  stands  a  Church 
with  a  long  flight  of  steps.  The  flat  roof  of  the  Grand  Seminaire, 
a  training-college  for  priests  founded  by  Card.  Lavigerie  (p.  346; 
adm.  by  leave  of  the  Superior),  commands  an  extensive  *Panorama 
of  the  Mitidja,  the  Atlas  of  Blida,  and  the  Jurjnra  range. 

From  Kouba  via  Vieux-Kouba  to  Birmandreis,  see  p.  231. 

e.  El-Biar  and  Bouzareah. 

Tramway  (No.  6,  p.  219)  to  El-Biar  and  Cbateau-Ncuf.  From  Chateau- 
Neuf  diligence  several  times  daily  to  Cheraga  and  six  times  daily  to  Bou- 
zareah (notices  are  posted  in  the  Place  du  Gouvernement,  at  the  corner 
of  Rue  Bab-Azoun). 

A  favourite  circular  trip  for  one  day  (motor-cars  and  carriages,  see 
p.  218)  embraces  El-Biar,  (hateau-Neuf,  Cheraga,  Staoucli-Trappe,  Sidi- 
Ferruch  (p.  237),  Guyotville  (p.  237),  Pointe-Pescade  (p.  237),  St.  Eugene 
(p.  236),  and  Algiers.  A  popular  drive  for  half-a-day  includes  Bouzareah, 
Foret  de  Ba'ineni,   Bains  Remains  (p.  237),   Pointe  Pescade,   and  Algiers. 

(1).  The  road  to  El-Biar  leads  from  the  old  town  through  the 
Kasha  and  the  Porte  du  Sahel  (PI.  B,  3;  comp.  p.  228).    Walkers 

15* 


234     Route  34.  ALGIERS.  El-Biar. 

may  note  two  possible  digressions.  To  the  left,  just  outside  the 
gate,  a  path  descends  in  10  min.  to  Boul.  Laferriere  (p.  226).  To 
the  right,  2  min.  farther,  diverges  the  Chemin  de  Fontaine-Fraiche 
(PI.  A,  3,  4),  the  road  to  (10  min.)  the  charmingly  situated  village 
of  Birtraria,  whence  one  may  either  ascend  to  the  S.W.  in  20  min. 
to  El-Biar  (see  below),  or  walk  to  the  N.E.  through  the  pretty 
Frais-Vallon  and  then  descend  the  Avenue  du  Frais-Vallon  (PI.  A, 
B,  2, 1),  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Oued  M'Kacel,  to  (l/2  hr.)  the 
Quartier  Bab  el-Oued  (see  below). 

The  highroad  passes  near  the  foot  of  the  Fort  I'Empereur 
(PI.  A,  4;  689  ft.),  almost  hidden  by  trees.  This  was  the  site  of  the 
camp  of  Charles  V.  (p.  221),  and  on  it  was  built  the  Mula'i  Hassan 
Fort  (1545),  which  was  partly  blown  up  by  its  Turkish  defenders 
when  bombarded  by  the  French  in  1830.  The  road  then  winds  up 
to  the  tramway  station  of  St.  Raphael  (788  ft.),  whence  a  charming 
road  branches  oif  to  (l1^  M.)  Mustapha-Superieur  (to  the  left,  and 
after  3  min.  to  the  left  again,  joining  the  Cltemin  du  Telemly  close 
to  the  Hot.  Continental). 

The  large  village  of  El-Biar  (784  ft.),  2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the 
Porte  du  Sahel,  and  the  village  of  Chdteau-Neuf  (*H6t.-Restaur. 
Mallard,  pens,  from  6  fr. ;  a  favourite  Sunday  afternoon  resort), 
lying  on  the  monotonous  plateau  !/2  M.  beyond  El-Biar,  uninteresting 
in  themselves,  are  the  starting-points  of  the  roads  to  the  Colonne 
Voirol  and  to  Bouzareah  (p.  235). 

A  road  leads  from  Chateau-Neuf  to  (5^2  M.  from  the  Porte  du  Sahel) 
CMraga  (650  ft. ;  Hot.  des  Voyageurs,  humble),  a  pleasant  village  among 
fruit-trees,  and  (3  M.)  Staotie'li-Trappe  (p.  237),  situated  on  a  shelf-like 
terrace  above  the  coast,  where  the  French  first  encountered  the  troops 
of  the  dey  in  1830.  The  old  Trappist  monastery  founded  here  in  1843 
was  purchased  in  1904  by  the  Swiss  Consul  Borgeaud,  who  has  converted 
the  abbey-lands  of  about  3000  acres  into  a  model  farm  (no  admittance). 
The  burial-ground  contains  the  tomb  of  Col.  Marengo  (1787-1862). 

From  Staoucli-Trappe  a  road  descends  to  the  N.W.  to  (1  M.)  Staoue'li 
(p.  237).  The  highroad  joins  the  Castiglione  road  at  (11  M.)  Sidi-Ferruch 
(p.  237),  a  station  on  the  steam-tramway. 

(2).  To  Bouzareah  a  new  road  (2J/2  M.)  leads  to  the  N.W.  from 
El-Biar  (see  above),  through  the  pretty  valley  of  the  Oued  bel- 
Elzar,  one  of  the  feeders  of  the  Oued  M'Kacel  (see  above),  while 
the  old  road  (2  M.)  leads  to  it  from  Chdteau-Neuf  (see  above), 
crossing  an  uninteresting  plateau  and,  about  1/2  M.  short  of  Bouza- 
reah, passing  the  Ecole  Normale  Primaire. 

A  more  interesting  route  to  (5  M.)  Bouzareah  is  from  the  Quartier 
Bab  el-Oued  (PI.  B,  1),  formerly  the  N.W.  suburb  of  Algiers,  in- 
habited chiefly  by  Spaniards.  From  the  Boul.  du  General-Farre 
or  Boul.  Militaire  Nord  (PI.  C,  1;  p.  222)  we  follow  the  Avenue 
de  la  Bouzareah  (PI.  C,  B,  1)  and  the  Avenue  Beau-Fraisier,  in  the 
old  suburb  of  Cit&  Bugeaud,  to  the  Pont  du  Beau-Fraisier  crossing 


Bouzariah.  ALGIERS.  34.  Route.     235 

the  Oued  M'Kacel.  We  thence  ascend  the  fine  Chemin  des  Carrieres, 
passing  near  the  blue-limestone  quarries  on  the  spurs  of  Mont 
Bouzareah,  then  through  a  side-valley  of  the  Frais-Vallon  (p.  234), 
with  its  luxuriant  vegetation,  and  lastly  mount  in  windings  past 
the  Hospice  des  Vieillards. 

The  village  of  Bouzareah  (1230  ft.;  Hot.  de  France,  humble; 
pop.  2500),  in  an  open  site  on  the  crest  of  Mont  Bouzareah  (1335  ft.), 
the  culminating  point  of  the  Sahel,  is  a  favourite  goal  for  excursion- 
ists in  summer.  A  road  leads  to  the  N.E.  from  the  village,  past 
the  Fort  de  la  Bouzareah,  on  the  left,  and  the  Christian  Cemetery, 
on  the  right,  to  (3/4  M.)  the  Observatoire  d' Alger  (1148  ft.).  The  roof 
of  the  observatory  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  Bay  of  Algiers  and  of 
the  hills  of  Great  Kabylia  as  far  as  Cape  Bengut  (p.  254). 

From  the  Observatory  we  may  descend  either  to  the  E.  by  the  steep 
Chemin  Sidi  Ben-Nour,  passing  the  fort  of  that  name,  to  the  Avenue  des 
Consutats  (see  below),  or  to  the  N.  by  a  steep  and  stony  path  to  the  ValUe 
des  Consuls  (p.  236). 

A  road  leads  to  the  N.W.  from  Bouzareah  in  1/i  hr.  to  the  poor 
huts  of  the  Village  Arabe  de  la  Bouzareah,  on  the  slope  of  a  flat 
hill  (1178  ft.),  overgrown  with  cacti  and  dwarf-palms,  where  we 
have  a  splendid  *View  of  the  forest  of  Bainem,  Cape  Caxine  (p.  237), 
the  S.W.  chain  of  the  Sahel,  with  the  'Tombeau  de  la  Chretienne' 
(p.  238),  and  Jebel  Chenoua  (p.  242),  as  also  of  the  Blida  Atlas 
with  the  deep  incision  of  the  Chiffa  Ravine  (p.  215). 

From  the  Arab  village  the  road  descends  to  the  W.  to  the  (IV4  M.) 
Foret  de  Bainern,  the  largest  wood  (1250  acres)  near  Algiers.  We  follow 
the  'Route  Forestiere  Wendling',  high  on  the  slope  of  the  Sahel,  with 
a  fine  view  of  the  coast  between  Pointe  Pescade  (p.  237)  and  Cape  Caxine, 
;it  first  through  underwood,  richly  carpeted  with  flowers  in  spring.  We 
then  pass  through  the  remains  of  a  pine-forest  to  the  (l3/4  M.)  Bond  des 
Eucalyptus,  a  bifurcation  in  a  small  eucalyptus  grove  (straight  on  is 
the  Route  Forestiere  Mignerot  leading  to  Guyotville,  3l/4  M. ;  p.  237). 
We  follow,  to  the  right,  the  beautiful  Route  Forestiere  Combe  (2  M.), 
which  descends  through  groups  of  cork-trees,  pines,  and  eucalypti,  past  a 
ravine,  to  the  Maison  Forestiere,  whence  it  is  continued  by  a  eucalyptus 
and  mimosa  avenue  down  to  Villas  (p.  237),  on  the  Castiglione  road,  a 
station  on  the  steam-tramway. 


f.  Notre -Darn e  d'Afrique  and  St.  Eugene. 

Tramway  (No.  1,  p.  218)  to  the  Hopital  du  Dey;  thence  an  omnibus 
every  '/g  hr.  (1-4  pcrs.  1  fr.  20  c. ;  each  addit.  pers.  30  c.)  to  the  church  of 
Notre-Dame  d'Afrique.  —  Tramway  (No.  7,  p.  219)  to  St.  Eugene.  The 
terminus  'Deux-Moulins'  is  only  a  few  paces  from  the  station  of  the  steam- 
tramway  to  Castiglione  (R.  35). 

The  tramway  through  the  Avenue  des  Consulats  ends  at  the 
Hdpilal  Militaire  du  Dey  (PI.  A,  B,  1),  which,  with  its  gardens, 
occupies  the  site  of  a  villa  of  Hassan  Pasha  (p.  225).  We  follow 
the  Boul.  de  Champagne,  and  (hen  diverge  to  the  right  by  the  Route 
de  Notre-Dame  d'Afrique  ('/<>  hr.),  a  narrow  road,  shady  towards 
'vening,  affording  splendid  *Views  of  the  Bay  of  Algiers. 


236     Route  34.  ALGIERS.  St.  Eugene. 

The  large  domed  church  of  Notre-Dame  d'Afrique  (443  ft.), 
a  pilgrimage-church  for  sick  persons  and  mariners,  founded  by 
Card.  Lavigerie  in  1872,  rises  conspicuously  on  a  spur  of  the  N.E. 
slope  of  Mont  Bouzardah  (p.  235),  above  the  Christian  and  the 
Jewish  burial-grounds  (see  below).  From  the  terrace  in  front  of 
the  church,  where  the  blessing  of  the  sea  by  the  clergy  every  Sunday 
at  3.30  attracts  many  spectators,  we  survey  the  coast  as  far  as  the 
Pointe  Pescade  (p.  237).   Behind  the  church  is  the  Hot.  Bompard. 

The  Vallee  des  Consids,  which  has  its  name  from  the  villas  of 
the  European  consuls  of  the  Turkish  period,  a  shady  and  extremely 
fertile  vale  above  St.  Eugene  (see  below),  affords  charming  walks. 
A  pleasant  road  leads  through  it  from  Notre-Dame  d'Afrique,  shaded 
by  gnarled  old  olive-trees.  We  may  thence  mount  to  the  Observ- 
atory (comp.  p.  235),  or  else  descend  in  20  min.  to  St.  Eugene; 
but  the  descent  via  Fort  Duperri  to  Deux-Moidins  (p.  237)  is 
very  rough  and  fatiguing. 

From  the  lower  end  of  the  Boul.  du  General-Farre  (p.  234), 
beyond  the  still  uncompleted  Quartier  de  V Esplanade  (PI.  C,  1), 
runs  the  Avenue  Malakoff  (PL  C,  B,  1),  close  to  the  shore  and 
protected  against  the  breakers  by  a  high  limestone  wall,  leading  to 
the  Fort  des  Anglais,  an  old  Turkish  fort  on  a  rocky  headland. 
Opposite,  to  the  left,  on  the  spurs  of  Mont  Bouzareah,  lie  the 
Christian  Cemetery  and  the  interesting  Jewish  Cemetery  of  Algiers. 

Beyond  the  cemeteries  we  come  to  the  little  town  of  St.  Eugene 
(Hot. -Restaur,  du  Chateau-Vert,  dej.  2»/2,  D.  3  fr.;  Restaur.  Deux- 
Moulins;  pop.  4800,  incl.  500  Jews),  with  several  factories  and 
pretty  villas.  The  tramway-terminus,  Deux-Moulins,  at  the  N.W. 
end  of  the  town,  is  the  starting-point  for  walks  to  the  Pointe  Pescade 
(p.  237),  the  Foret  de  Ba'inem  (p.  235),  and  other  places. 


35.  From  Algiers  to  Tipaza  and  Cherchell. 

a.  Via  Castiglione. 

Steam  Tramway  (p.  219)  from  the  station  in  the  Quartier  Bab  el-Oued 
(PI.  B,  1;  in  connection  with  the  electric  tramway  from  Rue  Waisse,  PI.  C,  4) 
to  (28'/2  M.)  Castiglione;  four  trains  daily  in  23/4-3i/2  hrs.  (fares  3  fr.  15, 
2  fr.  30  c.).  —  Diligence  from  Castiglione  three  times  dajjy  to  (5  M.)  Mrard 
and  twice  daily  via  (43'/2  M.)  Tipaza  to  (60V2  M.)  Cherchell.  In  order  to 
visit  the  Tombeau  de  la  Chre'tienne  we  have  to  take  a  private  vehicle 
(costing,  from  Castiglione  to  Tipaza,  with  a  stay  of  2-3  hours  at  the  Ferme 
Seuillet  or  the  Ferme  du  Rocher-Plat,  about  12-15  fr.). 

Interesting  Round  op  Three  Days:  1st.  By  early  train  to  Castiglione; 
drive  (taking  provisions)  to  Ferme  Seuillet  (walk  to  Tombeau  de  la 
Chretienne)  and  to  Tipaza  (see  pp.  238,  239);  there  visit  the  E.  hill,  sending 
carr.  on  to  the  hotel.  —  2nd.  Visit  lighthouse  and  W.  hill  of  Tipaza  early; 
drive  to  Cherchell  about  noon  (see  pp.  242,  243).  —  3rd.  Drive  about  noon 
to  Marengo  (see  pp.244,  243;  lunch);  take  afternoon  train  to  Blida,  and 
evening  train  thence  to  Algiers.  —  Attractive  but  more  costly,  Four  Days' 


SIDI-FERRUCH.  86.  Route.     237 

Round:  1st.  By  early  train  to  Blida;  by  midday  or  evening  train  to  Bou- 
Medfa;  by  omnibus  to  Hammatu  Rhira  (p.  212).  —  2nd.  By  carr.  from  hotel 
to  (16  M.)  Marengo,  and  thence  by  steam-tramway  (see  pp.  243,  244)  or 
by  carr.  to  (Jherchell.  —  3rd.  Drive  about  noon  to  Tipaza  (see  pp.  243,  242). 
—  4th.  Tombeau  de  la  Chrctienne;  towards  evening  by  steam-tramway  from 
Castiglione  back  to  Algiers.  —  Tours  by  Motor  Car,  comp.  p.  173. 

From  Algiers  to  (33/4  M.)  Deux-Moulins  (St.  Eugene),  see 
pp.  235,  236.  Here  begins  the  finest  part.of  the  coast-road,  which 
will  repay  walkers  as  far  as  Cape  Caxine  or  Guyotville.  The  spurs 
of  Mont  Bouzareah  (p.  235),  furrowed  by  many  little  ravines, 
come  close  down  to  the  sea.  The  coast,  undermined  at  places  by  the 
surf,  presents  a  picturesque  series  of  small  headlands,  bold  cliffs, 
and  rocky  islets. 

The  most  striking  spot  is  the  (5  M.)  *Pointe  Pescade  (Res- 
taurant), a  headland  crowned  with  the  mouldering  walls  of  a  Turk- 
ish fort  (1671),  overlooking  the  blue  sea  and  the  coast  as  far  as 
Cape  Matifou  and  beyond. 

By  road  and  railway  we  next  come  to  the  (5!/2  M.)  Bains  Ro 
mains  (HOt.-Restaur.)  and  the  Hot.  de  la  Fontaine  Romaine,  both 
sea-bathing  places  in  summer,  to  (7  M.)  Villas,  lying  below  the 
Foret  de  Ba'inem  (p.  235),  and  to  (8  M.)  Cape  Caxine,  on  the  gneiss 
rocks  of  which  rises  a  Lighthouse  (210  ft.;  visible  24  M.  round). 

Beyond  the  precipitous  Grand  Rocher  lies  (9l/2M.)  St.  Cloud- 
sur-Mer,  a  sea-bathing  place.    The  coast  now  grows  flatter. 

10  M.  Guyotville  (82  ft. ;  Hot.  des  Touristes,  humble),  a  vil- 
lage of  3500  inhab.,  with  a  colony  of  Italian  peasants,  who  cultiv- 
ate early  vegetables  and  grapes  on  the  sandy  soil,  protected  from 
the  sea-winds  by  plantations  of  Spanish  reeds  (Arundo  donax)  and 
in  spring  by  narrow  fields  of  rye.  On  the  plateau  to  the  S.  of  the 
village,  in  the  territory  of  the  tribe  of  Beni-Messous,  a  number  of 
dolmens  (see  pp.  324,  229)  still  exist. 

From  Guyotville  to  the  Foret  de  Ba'inem,  see  p.  235. 

Near  the  low  headland  of  Rds  Aetata  the  road  reaches  the  broad 
*Bay  of  Castiglione,  much  exposed  to  N.W.  gales,  which  extends 
in  a  slight  curve  to  Jebel  Clienoua  (p.  242),  a  hill  we  sighted  soon 
after  leaving  Guyotville.  We  have  a  view  also  of  the  pretty  adjoin- 
ing bay  of  Sidi-Ferruch.  To  the  right,  near  (12i/2M.)  Les  Dunes, 
part  of  the  sand-hills  is  cultivated. 

13  M.  La  Trappe  and  (14»/2  M.)  Staoudi  (Hot.  Malakoff,  quite 
good)  are  stations  for  Staoueli- Trappe  (p.  234). 

From  Staoueli  and  from  the  (15l/2  M.)  Station  Sidi-Ferruch 
roads  lead  to  the  N.W.  (one  21/i,  the  other  2  M.)  to  the  small  sea- 
bathing village  of  Sidi-Ferruch  (49  ft.;  Hot.  de  la  Plage,  plain), 
at  the  end  of  a  sandy  tongue  of  land  formed  by  the  surf  and  by  the 
deposits  of  the  Oued  Mazafran  (p.  238).  It  attracts  also  jackal- 
hunters  and  anglers  from  Algiers  in  winter.  An  inscription  at  the 
entrance  to  the  Fort  recalls  the  landing  of  French  troops  here  in 


238     Route  36.     TOMB.  DE  LA  CHRETIENNE.     From  Algiers 

1830  (comp.  p.  234).  A  little  to  the  N.W.  are  the  scanty  remains 
of  an  Early  Christian  Church,  with  baptistery,  etc. 

As  we  proceed,  the  Atlas  of  Blida  (p.  169)  is  visible  for  a  time. 
18  M.  Zeralda  (62  ft.;  Hot.  de  Zeralda),  an  agricultural  village, 
lies  in  a  broad  coast-plain,  the  lowest  of  four  old  beach-terraces 
which  mount  to  the  N.E.  in  gigantic  steps  to  Staoueli-Trappe. 

The  road  now  leads  between  low  sand-hills,  with  pines  and 
underwood,  to  the  Oued  Mazafran  (called  in  its  upper  course  Oued 
Chiffa,  p.  213),  through  whose  valley,  deeply  furrowing  the  Sahel, 
we  have  another  glimpse  of  the  Atlas  of  Blida. 

22  M.  Mazafran,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  stream,  is  the  junc- 
tion of  a  branch-line  to  (6V4  M.)  the  little  town  of  Kolea  (460  ft.; 
Hot.  de  France;  Hot.  du  Commerce),  founded  by  Andalusian  Moors 
in  1550,  finely  situated  on  the  S.  slope  of  the  Sahel,  and  noted  for 
its  fruit-culture.   The  Jardin  des  Zouaves  deserves  a  visit. 

The  next  stations  are  for  the  use  of  villages  situated  above  the 
line,  on  the  N.  margin  of  the  Sahel  plateau.  23*/2  M.  Douaouda-les- 
Bains,  251j2  M.  Fouka-Marine,  two  small  sea-bathing  places.  In 
the  distance,  on  the  crest  of  the  Sahel,  appears  the  Tombeau  de 
la  Chretienne,  resembling  a  haystack. 

2872  M.  Castiglione  (128  ft.;  Hot.  du  Tapis-Ve.rt,  good; 
Hot.  de  Paris;  Hot.  de  l'Oasis,  humble)  is  a  large  village  of  2000 
inhab.,  on  the  vine-clad  slope  of  the  Sahel.  Below  are  the  un- 
pretending sea-baths,  where  lodgings  may  be  procured. 

The  High  .Road  to  (43'/2  M.)  Tipaza,  affording  at  first  a  beau- 
tiful view  of  the  coast,  of  Jebel  Chenoua,  and  the  hills  of  the  Dahra 
(p.  209)  beyond  Marengo,  leads  via  the  fishing-villages  of  (30  M.) 
Chiffalo  (founded  by  Sicilian  fishermen  from  Cefalu)  and  (31  M.) 
Bou-Haroun,  whose  inhabitants  are  engaged  in  the  anchovy  and 
sardine  fishery,  to  (33y2  M.)  Berard  (66  ft.;  Cafe-Hot.  Berard, 
poor),  a  banana-growing  village. 

36  M.  Ferme  SeuiUet  (102  ft.),  a  large  farm,  is  the  starting- 
point  for  the  Tombeau  de  la  Chretienne.  The  rough  road  to  the 
tomb  (2:/2  M.)  ascends  in  windings  (partly  avoided,  after  10  min., 
by  a  short-cut  to  the  left),  at 'first  through  underwood,  and  then  to 
the  S.W.  through  vineyards. 

The  so-called  *Tombeau  de  la  Chretienne  (856  ft.;  Arabic 
Kbur  er-Riimia),  the  largest  tomb  in  the  Atlas  regions  and  one 
of  the  most  conspicuous  of  sailors'  landmarks  on  the  whole  coast 
of  Algeria,  stands  on  one  of  the  highest  points  of  the  S.W.  range 
of  the  Sahel.  It  was  probably  erected  by  Juba  11.  (p.  244),  in  imi- 
tation of  the  Medracen  (p.  274),  as  a  tomb  for  his  family.  The 
building  consists  of  a  low  square  pedestal,  of  about  70  yds.  each  way, 
and  a  circular  substructure  relieved  by  sixty  Ionic  half-columns 
and  four  blind  portals,  crowned  with  a  pyramid  rising  in  steps,  of 
which  33  still  exist.    The  present  name  is  derived  from  the  cruci- 


to  ChercheU.  TIPAZA.  86.  Route.     239 

form  mouldings  of  the  door-panels.  The  monument,  originally 
130  ft.  in  height,  but  now  108  ft.  only,  has  suffered  severely  from 
tin/  vandalism  of  native  treasure-hunters,  who  bored  two  tunnels 
into  it,  and  from  bombardment  by  two  deys  of  Algiers,  bent  on  the 
same  quest.  Further  damage  was  done  by  earthquakes  in  1825  and 
1867,  and  the  masonry  also  has  been  loosened  by  the  removal  of  its 
leaden  cramps.  The  building  is  surrounded  by  dense  underwood 
and  is  partly  overgrown  by  it  on  the  N.  side.  Key  and  candles  at 
the  keeper's  hut  on  the  N.E.  side  (fee  50  c). 

The  Entrance  is  under  the  blind  portal  on  the  E.  side,  where  the 
original  vestibule  has  almost  disappeared.  A  short  passage  leads  to  the 
antechamber;  in  the  wall  on  the  right,  near  two  rude  reliefs  (lion  and 
lioness),  is  a  passage,  once  closed  by  stone  slabs,  with  a  flight  of  seven 
steps.  Beyond  this  is  a  winding  gallery,  about  165  yds.  long,  probably 
destined  for  funeral  processions,  with  small  wall-niches  for  lamps.  The 
gallery  leads  to  the  two  inner  chambers,  an  ante-room,  and  the  larger 
chamber,  with  three  wall-niches,  in  the  centre  of  the  monument,  probably 
the  tomb  of  the  kings,  but  now  quite  empty. 

The  Ascent  of  the  monument,  from  the  S.  side,  rather  a  toilsome 
climb,  conveys  a  still  more  striking  idea  of  its  grandeur  than  the  long 
groping  in  the  inside.  The  *Panorama  from  the  top  embraces  the  coast, 
trom  Sidi-Ferruch  to  Jebel  Chenoua;  the  hills  of  the  Dahra,  with  Jebel 
Zaccar  Chergui  (p.  212)  to  the  S.W.;  the  broad  Mitidja  plain  to  the  S.; 
and  the  Atlas  of  Blida  with  the  ravine  of  the  Chiti'a. 

We  return  to  the  Ferme  Seuillet  by  the  same  route,  or  descend 
to  the  N.W.  by  the  steep  road  to  (3772  M.)  the  Ferme  du  Rocher- 
1'lat  (85  ft.). 

The  highroad  next  passes  the  (42  M.)  Ferine  Demonchy,  inter- 
sects a  beautiful  eucalyptus-grove,  and  passes  the  E.  hill  of  Tipaza 
(p.  242).  In  approaching  Tipaza  we  obtain  a  charming  view  of  its 
little  bay  and  the  lighthouse. 

43 7j  M.  Tipaza.  —  Hotel.  Hotel  du  Rivage,  prettily  situated 
at  the  S.  base  of  the  lighthouse  hill,  with  a  small  garden,  R.  2'/a>  B-  '/2> 
dej.  or  D.  2'/2-3,  pens.  7  fr. 

Tipaza,  a  small  seaport  of  2000  inhab.,  mostly  Mohammedans, 
founded  in  1854,  stands  on  the  ruins  of  Tipasa,  a  place  with  a 
Berber  name,  but  originally  an  ancient  Phoenician  settlement,  and 
from  the  time  of  Emp.  Claudius  (about  40  A.D.)  a  Roman  colony. 
Thanks  to  its  advantageous  site  near  the  Nador  valley,  the  main 
outlet  in  Roman  times  of  the  densely-populated  W.  Mitidja,  Tipasa 
became  in  the  2nd  cent,  one  of  the  most  prosperous  seaports  of 
Mauritania.  The  most  glorious  period  in  its  history  was  at  the 
close  of  the  4th  cent,  when  Tipasa,  famed  for  its  staunch  adherence 
to  the  Catholic  faith,  repelled  the  attacks  of  Firmus,  the  Berber 
prince  (p.  244) ;  but  after  a  century  of  prosperity  most  of  the  inhabi- 
tants fled  to  Spain  in  4S4  in  order  to  escape  from  the  persecutions 
of  Hunerich,  king  of  the  Vandals.  Since  its  occupation  by  the 
Arabs  the  old  town,  already  much  impoverished,  has  disappeared 
from  the  page  of  history. 


240     Route  85.  TIPAZA.  From  Algiers 

The  site  of  Tipaza,  secluded  and  peaceful,  is  strikingly  pictur- 
esque. The  adjoining  coast  is  richly  varied,  and  close  by  rise  the 
great  limestone  rocks  of  Mt.  Chenoua.  At  the  same  time  there  are 
remains  of  numerous  Roman  and  early-Christian  buildings  around, 
all  in  complete  ruin,  and  partly  overgrown  with  luxuriant  vegetation. 

Ancient  Tipasa,  originally  occupying  only  the  central  castle- 
hill,  which  now  bears  the  lighthouse  (see  below),  gradually  ex- 
tended over  the  coast-plain  to  the  S.  of  the  bay,  and  also  along 
the  slopes  of  the  W.  and  E.  hills.  The  late -Roman  Town 
Walls,  2410  yds.  in  length,  are  still  traceable  at  places.  The 
busy  trade  of  the  port  led,  probably  at  an  early  period,  to  the 
construction  of  a  broad  Landing  Place  with  substantial  quays,  the 
space  for  which  was  obtained  by  the  levelling  of  the  rocky  terrace 
on  the  coast.  The  Roman  Outer'  Harbour,  behind  the  rock-islets 
•near  the  E.  hill,  probably  served  as  a  place  of  refuge  in  stormy 
weather  only.  Since  the  middle  ages  the  coast-line  has  been  much 
modified  by  the  encroachments  of  the  sea. 

"We  begin  our  walk  on  the  N.  side  of  the  village,  at  the  present 
Harbour,  which  occupies  the  site  of  the  now  submerged  Roman 
landing-place.  The  huge  rock  (possibly  used  as  a  mausoleum), 
undermined  by  the  sea,  which  rises  in  the  middle  of  the  harbour, 
was  left  untouched  by  the  Roman  engineers.  During  the  construction 
of  the  new  harbour  the  remains  of  a  Roman  Cistern  and  under- 
ground Conduits  were  unearthed. 

From  the  harbour  we  walk  to  the  N.,  round  a  small  bay,  to  the 
Lighthouse  Hill  (112  ft.),  gorgeous  with  flowers  in  spring,  where 
a  few  vestiges  of  Roman  streets,  cisterns,  and  a  temple  are  traceable 
(see  above).  At  the  Lighthouse  (phare)  we  obtain  a  delightful 
view.  Near  it,  on  the  N.  margin  of  the  hill,  a  precipice  has  been 
formed  by  a  landslip. 

The  road  connecting  the  highroad  with  the  harbour  and  the 
lighthouse  hill  leads  past  the  Hotel  du  Rivage  and  through  the 
*Thermae,  a  grand  bath-house  of  the  2nd  or  3rd  cent.,  rivalling 
the  W.  baths  of  Cherchell  (p.  246).  Among  the  ruins,  still  30  ft. 
high  in  places,  extending  into  the  Jardin  Tremaux,  the  frigidarium 
on  the  E.  side  is  still  quite  recognizable. 

Near  the  hotel,  to  the  left,  we  enter  the  Jardin  Treomaux 
(adm.  kindly  granted),  the  garden  of  a  private  estate,  adorned  with 
antique  and  early-Christian  relics.  On  the  E.  side,  near  the  baths, 
we  observe,  protected  by  a  roof,  a  fine  late-Roman  sarcophagus, 
bearing  nuptial  and  sacrificial  scenes.  Near  it  is  an  old  Christian 
sarcophagus,  with  Christ,  the  Good  Shepherd  (beardless);  on  the 
sides  are  lions  tearing  a  gazelle  to  pieces. 

In  the  middle  of  the  grounds,  to  the  left  of  the  road,  are  a  few 
relics  of  a  Roman  Amphitheatre  (3rd  cent.?),  which  even  during 
the  French  period  has  served  as  a  quarry. 


to  ChercheU.  TIPAZA.  35.  Route.     241 

The  road,  farther  on,  passes  the  Nymphseum  (on  the  left),  a 
sumptuous  late-Roman  fountain  (3rd  or  4th  cent.),  26  yds.  in  breadth, 
backed  with  a  semicircular  wall.  In  front  of  it  is  a  platform  6l/2  ft. 
high,  once  bedecked  with  Corinthian  columns  and  with  statues,  over 
which  the  water*descended  into  a  narrow  trough  or  basin. 

Immediately  behind  the  fountain  is  a  well-preserved  vault,  once 
the  Reservoir  for  the  water  brought  to  Tipasa  by  an  underground 
conduit,  5'/2  ^-  l°ng?  from  the  valley  of  the  Nador.  A  few  paces 
away  are  the  noteworthy  ruins  of  a  Roman  Mausoleum  (1st  cent.?). 

The  Roman  Theatre,  at  the  exit  of  the  gardens,  to  the  right 
of  the  park-road,  yielded  the  materials  for  building  the  hospital 
of  Marengo.    Several  tiers  of  seats  are  still  traceable. 

From  the  W.  Gate,  of  whose  round  towers  alone  a  few  relics 
remain,  we  follow  the  vestiges  of  the  town-walls  to  the  N.  W.  to  the 
(5  min.)  West  Hill  (about  100  ft.),  the  Rds  el-Knissa  ('church 
promontory')  of  the  natives. 

A  few  paces  to  the  right  of  the  town-walls,  just  above  the  under- 
mined margin  of  the  coast-terrace,  some  fragments  of  a  wall  and 
two  arcades  of  an  aisle  mark  the  site  of  the  Bishop's  Church 
of  Tipasa.  Erected  in  the  4th  cent.,  the  church  was  a  basilica, 
57  yds.  by  49  yds.,  with  nave  and  triple  aisles;  the  nave,  14J/2  yds. 
in  breadth,  was  afterwards  trisected  by  the  addition  of  two  rows 
of  columns;  little  remains  of  the  semicircular  choir-recess. 

Of  the  square  Baptistery,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  church,  there 
remain  the  round  font,  with  three  steps,  and  fragments  of  the  ex- 
ternal walls.  An  adjoining  chamber  has  a  fine  mosaic  pavement; 
several  other  rooms  show  traces  of  a  heating  apparatus. 

On  the  left,  to  theW.  of  the  town-walls,  lay  the  early-Christian 
Western  Cemetery,  with  countless  rock-tombs,  sarcophagi,  and 
monuments  sadly  desecrated  by  herds  of  cattle.  About  a  hundred 
paces  to  the  N.  of  the  church,  in  the  rocks  rising  above  the  sea,  are 
several  Grottes  Funeraires.  Near  them  is  a  large  round  Mauso- 
leum,  once  adorned  externally  with  sixteen  half-columns,  contain- 
ing fourteen  wall-niches  (arcosolia)  for  coffins  and  the  slab  of  a 
table  for  love-feasts  (agapai). 

About  2  min.  to  the  S.  W.  is  the  Burial  Church  of  Bishop  Alex- 
ander,  built  at  the  end  of  the  4th  cent.,  a  small  basilica  with  nave 
and  aisles,  of  irregular  shape,  of  which  the  foundations  only  remain. 
On  the  E.  side  is  a  rectangular  altar-niche  with  nine  sarcophagi, 
containing,  as  the  eulogistic  inscription  in  the  nave  declares,  the 
remains  of  'the  nine  righteous  men'  (probably  the  nine  predecessors 
of  Alexander).  The  right  aisle  contains  many  sarcophagi  and  a 
semicircular  table  for  love-feasts.  At  thc\V.  end  of  the  nave  arc  a 
mosaic  with  fish  in  seven  rows  and  an  inscription  in  memory  of 
the  founder,  who  was  probably  buried  in  the\V.  apse,  added  later, 
and  accessible  by  a  narrow  portal  only. 


242     Route  35.  TIPAZA.  Fr°m  Algiers 

"We  now  return  to  the  harbour,  and  ascend  thence,  close  to  the 
sea,  past  the  remains  of  a  small  Roman  Burial  Ground,  to  the 
(10  min.)  East  Hill  (115  ft.),  outside  the  town-walls  where  thou- 
sands of  graves  indicate  the  great  extent  of  the  early-Christian 
Eastern  Cemetery. 

Here,  beyond  a  few  peasants'  huts,  we  reach  the  best-preserved 
ruin  at  Tipasa,  the  *Basilica  of  St.  Salsa,  the  patron  saint  of 
the  town.  This  church,  built  in  the  first  half  of  the  4th  cent. 
over  the  heathen  sarcophagus  of  Fabia  Salsa,  was  a  square  burial- 
chapel,  about  16  yds.  each  way,  with  nave  and  aisles,  but  in  the 
5th  or  6th  cent,  was  prolonged  westwards  into  a  basilica  S31/2  yds. 
long,  with  a  vestibule  and  with  galleries  over  the  aisles.  At  the 
same  time  the  remains  of  the  saint  were  transferred  to  a  Roman 
sarcophagus,  which  was  placed  on  a  high  pedestal  in  the  old 
nave,  now  the  choir  of  the  enlarged  church.  The  rows  of  clumsy 
columns  in  the  nave  are  a  later  addition.  The  walls  between  the 
choir-pillars  belong  to  a  restoration  of  the  7th  or  8th  century. 
Among  the  ruins  of  the  walls,  still  10-12  ft.  high  at  places,  lie  Ionic 
capitals  and  other  fragments  in  picturesque  confusion.  Near  the 
fagade  are  preserved  relics  of  the  old  stairs  to  the  galleries. 

The  small  Chapel  and  the  square  Hall  (later  a  burial-place) 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  church  date  perhaps  from  the  4th  century. 

An  *Excursion  to  Cape  Chenoua  will  be  found  attractive.  We  first 
follow  the  Cherchell  road  for  1  M. ;  we  then  turn,  beyond  the  Ferine 
Trimaux  (p.  244),  to  the  right  and  cross  the  Nador  valley  to  the  small 
sea-baths  of  Chenoua- Plage,  at  the  E.  base  of  Mt.  Chenoua.  A  narrow 
road  leads  thence,  up  and  down  hill,  along  the  beautiful  Bate  du  Chenoua 
to  the  Anse  des  Grottes.  which  owes  its  name  to  the  numerous  caves  in 
the  limestone  rocks  (Grottes  du  Nador).  On  the  narrow  coast-terrace 
between  (7'/a  M.)  Cape  Chenoua  and  the  Bds  el-Amouch  is  the  secluded 
settlement  of  a  French  contractor,  who  with  a  staff  of  Spanish  hands 
carries  on  a  cement-factory  and  quarries  the  red  marble  of  the  cape, 
which  was  already  known  to  the  Romans. 

The  ascent  of  *Jebel  Chenoua  is  interesting,  both  for  the  sake  of 
the  view  from  the  top  and  for  the  glimpse  it  affords  of  its  peculiar, 
purely  Berber  inhabitants.  From  the  hilly  coast-road  just  mentioned  the 
route  ascends  to  Tenzirt  and  (2-2i/4  hrs.)  a  Pass  (about  2300  ft.)  between 
the  two  chief  heights  of  the  Chenoua.  Thence  in  40  min.  more  we  reach 
the  E.  peak  (2976  ft.),  crowned  with  the  kubba  of  Lalla  Tefouredj  (Berber 
Lalla  Tzaforalz).  The  path  descending  from  the  pass  to  Desaix  (see  be- 
low) will  be  found  convenient. 

The  Road  fkom  Tipaza  to  (17  M.)  Cherchell  (diligence,  see 
p.  236)  branches  off  to  theW.  from  the  Marengo  road  at  (2  M.) 
Gut  du  Nador  (p.  243),  crosses  the  stream,  and  leads  past  (3  M.) 
Desaix  (p.  244),  through  a  bleak  tract  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Chenoua. 

hlh  M.  Castellum  du  Nador,  a  late-Roman  fortified  country- 
seat  (3rd  or  4th  cent.),  was  originally  a  quadrangular  walled  en- 
closure of  55  by  47  yds. ;  immediately  to  the  left  of  the  road  there 
now  remain  the  ruins  of  two  round  corner-towers  and  of  a  handsome 
gateway  flanked  with  two  square  towers. 


to  Cherchell.  MARENGO.  35.  Route.      243 

The  road  leads  on  to  the  watershed,  from  which  one  has  a  view 
of  the  Atlas  of  Blida  behind  and  the  Dahra  mountain  spurs  (p.  208) 
in  front.    Thence  it  dips  into  the  valley  of  the  Oued  el-Hachem. 

9^2  M.  Marabout  Sidi-Ameur  (164  ft.),  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  stream,  at  the  junction  of  the  Marengo  road  (p.  244). 

About  3/4  M.  farther  on  we  observe,  on  the  left,  the  *ChercheH 
Aqueduct,  coming  from  the  village  of  Marceau,  the  largest  Roman 
work  of  the  kind  in  Algeria,  which,  rising  in  three  tiers  to  a  height 
of  over  100  ft.,  here  bridges  a  side-valley. 

Passing  several  hill-farms,  owned  by  French  families,  the  road 
next  turns  to  the  N.W.  into  the  valley  of  the  Oued  Bellah.  Be- 
yond the  (14  M.)  Cafe  de  I'Oasis  we  pass  under  the  aqueduct,  of 
which  twenty  pillars  and  five  arches,  built  of  great  blocks  of  lime- 
stone, are  still  standing  here  at  the  foot  of  the  beautiful  pine-wood. 

Beyond  the  aqueduct  begins  the  finest  part  of  the  road.  At  first 
it  skirts  a  pine-clad  slope  and  then,  leaving  Cap  Blanc  to  the 
N.  E.,  leads  to  the  W.,  up  and  down  hill,  along  the  coast.  Lastly 
it  passes  the  fissured  Cape  Zizerin  and  two  saints'  tombs. 

17  M.  Cherchell,  see  p.  244. 

b.  Via  El-Affroun  and  Marengo. 

Railway  (Algiers  and  Oran  Line,  R.  33)  via  (3iy2  M.)  Blida  (p.  213) 
to  (43  M.)  El-A/lroun,  six  trains  daily,  in  l3/4-23/4  hrs.  (7  fr.  75,  5  fr.  80, 
4  fr.  25  c).  —  Steam  Tramway  from  El-Affroun  via  (12'/2  M.)  Marengo  to 
(30'/s  M.)  Cherchell,  two  (as  far  as  Marengo  three)  trains  daily,  in  ca. 
23/4  hrs.;  fare  3  fr.  70  or  2  fr.  70  c.  —  For  the  combined  visit  to  Tipaza 
and  Cherchell,  comp.  also  the  diary  on  pp.  236,  237. 

From  Algiers  to  (43  M.)  El-Affroun,  see  pp.  217-213.  From 
the  railway-station  at  El-Affroun  the  Steam  Tramway  runs  to  the 
W.,  at  the  foot  of  a  range  of  low  hills,  through  the  plain  of  Mitidja, 
which  is  here  very  monotonous.  To  the  right,  on  the  crest  of  the 
Sahel,  is  the  Tombeau  de  la  Chretienne  (p.  238) ;  in  front  of  us 
rises  Jebel  Chenoua  (p.  242).  We  pass  the  two  poor  villages  of 
(3J/2  M.)  Amen r-el-Ain,  and  (8V2  M.)  Bourlcika  (345  ft.),  where 
the  road  from  Miliana  and  Hammam  Rhira  (p.  212)  joins  ours. 

12»/2  M.  Marengo  (305  ft.;  Hot.  d'Orient,  Hot.  Marengo, 
both  unpretending;  carriages  at  the  inns  only;  pop.  4300),  a  large 
agricultural  village,  has  an  important  Wednesday  *Market.  About 
5l/2  M.  to  the  S.  is  the  reservoir  of  the  Oued  Meurad. 

The  Road  from  Marengo  to  (8  M.)  Tlpaza  (carr.  6-8  fr.)  cross- 
es the  Oued  Meurad  and  intersects  the  fine  *Foret  de  Sidi-Slimdn 
('Solomon's  Forest'),  still  primaeval  in  character,  with  dense  under- 
wood and  luxuriant  ivy  climbing  to  the  tops  of  the  trees. 

At  the  Oued  Nador,  near  the  (6  M.)  Gni  du  Nadvr,  our  road 
joins  the  Cherchell  road  (see  p.  242).  At  the  (7  M.)  Ferme  Tremaux 
it  leaves  the  valley  of  the  Nador,  whose  estuary  is  flanked  with 
low  sand-hills,  and  leads  to  the  E.  to  (8  M.)  Tipaza  (p.  239). 


244     Route  35.  CHERCHELL.  History. 

The  highroad  (carr.  12-15  fr.)  from  Marengo  to  (16  M.)  Cherchell  (see 
below)  ascends  to  the  W.  from  the  Mitidja  through  a  hilly  region  and 
after  about  6  M.  turns  to  the  N.  It  joins  the  road  from  Tipaza  to  Cher- 
chell at  (10  M.)  Marabout  Sidi-Ameur  (see  p.  243). 

Beyond  Marengo  the  Railway  crosses  the  highroad  to  Tipaza 
and  then  runs  parallel  to  it  to  (17  M.)  Desaix  (220  ft.;  p.  242). 
We  skirt  the  S.  side  of  Jebel  Chenoua  (p.  242). 

20  M.  Raines  Romaines.  We  cross  the  Oued  el-Hachem  (p.  243) . 

23  M.  Zurich  (263  ft.).  The  thriving  village  of  that  name, 
with  a  fine  avenue  of  plane-trees,  lies  about  lx/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  the 
station  and  is  inhabited  chiefly  by  natives,  who  cultivate  oranges 
and  vines.  The  great  Thursday  market  is  well  attended  by  the 
Beni  Menasser  (see  below). 

Beyond  Zurich  the  train  runs  to  the  W.  of  the  Cherchell  high- 
road. To  the  left  lies  the  Cherchell  Aqueduct  (p.  243),  while  to 
the  right  Jebel  Chenoua  may  be  seen.  24  M.  Bled  Bakora; 
2572  M.  Bou-Harnoud;  27>/2  M.  Oued-Bellah. 

30V2  M.  Cherchell  or  Cherchel  (108  ft.;  Grand-Hotel  or  Hot. 
Nicolas,  R.  21/2,  dej.  or  D.  2'/2  fr.,  plain  but  good,  Hot.  Juba, 
humble,  both  in  the  Place  Romaine;  Hot.  de  Valence;  pop.  6800, 
incl.  4700  Mohammedans),  a  pleasant  little  seaport,  lies  on  a  narrow 
limestone  plateau,  an  old  coast-terrace,  at  the  foot  of  green  hills 
(750-800  ft.).  Behind  these  hills  rises  a  mountainous  region,  once 
well  wooded,  inhabited  by  the  Berber  tribe  of  the  Beni  Menasser 

Cherchell  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Phoenician  colony  of  Iol. 
Prom  the  year  25  B.  C.  it  took  the  name  of  Oaesarea,  and  in  the  Roman 
imperial  age  it  became  the  capital  of  Mauretania  and  residence  of  Juba  II. 
(25  B.  C.  to  22  A.  D.),  one  of  the  most  learned  and  enlightened  men  of 
his  time,  under  whom  it  rapidly  rose  to  importance.  Under  Emp.  Claudius 
it  became  the  provincial  capital,  under  the  name  of  Colonia  Claudia 
Caesarea,  of  Mauretania  Cfesariensis,  and  in  rivalry  with  Carthage  and 
Hippo  Regius  (p.  309)  grew  to  be  one  of  the  greatest  and  wealthiest  cities 
of  N.  Africa.  After  the  erection  of  Mauretania  Sitifensis  (p.  271)  into  a 
new  province  the  prosperity  of  Caesarea  began  to  wane.  About  371  its 
art  and  industry  were  almost  annihilated  by  its  capture  and  pillage  by 
the  Donatists  (p.  172)  under  the  Berber  prince  Firmus,  and  it  lost  the 
last  vestige  of  its  ancient  glory  when  the  Vandals  transferred  their  resi- 
dence to  Carthage.  In  the  10th  cent,  the  town  is  mentioned  under  the 
name  of  Cherchell,  but  from  the  11th  cent,  onwards  it  was  entirely 
deserted.  At  length,  at  the  end  of  the  15th  cent.,  it  was  revived  by 
Andalusian  Moors,  who  brought  with  them  their  famed  potter's  art.  In 
1516  it  was  occupied  by  Horuk  Barbarossa  (p.  221),  in  1531  it  was  un- 
successfully attacked  by  Admiral  Andrea  Doria  (p.  115),  and  lastly,  after 
being  taken  by  the  French,  it  was  enclosed  by  a  wall  in  1843.  As  the 
harbour  affords  but  little  shelter  the  town  has  now  little  or  no  trade. 

Archaeologists  may  like  to  examine  the  scanty  remains  of  the 
Roman  Fortifications  (2735  by  1640  yds.),  which  extend  over  the 
crest  of  the  hill-range  with  its  fine  views;  but  the  chief  attraction 
is  the  Museum  of  sculptures  of  the  period  of  Juba  II.,  which  form 
the  only  certain  memorials  of  ancient  Caesarea,  'an  oasis  of  Greek 
culture  in  the  midst  of  the  Berbers'. 


Museum.  CHEKCHELL.  35.  Route.     245 

The  Place  Romaine  or  Esplanade  forms  the  nucleus  of  the 
little  town.  Among  the  trees  here  rises  a  Marble  Fountain, 
composed  of  Roman  architectural  fragments  found  in  the  environs, 
remains  perhaps  of  a  palace  of  king  Juba's  era  (the  four  colossal 
masks  are  copies;  see  below).  The  Corinthian  column  and  frag- 
ments of  other  columns  at  the  back  of  the  fountain  were  excavated 
in  tie  Roman  theatre  (p.  246).  The  parapet  of  the  Place  Romaine 
affords  a  survey  of  the  harbour  (p.  247). 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  Place  Romaine  rises  the  new  *Museum, 
which  consists  of  four  galleries  enclosing  a  central  court.  Among 
the  sculptures  exhibited  here  are  admirable  replicas  of  famous 
Greek  works  of  the  archaic  and  of  the  culminating  periods  of 
Greek  art  (5-4th  cent.),  which  were  executed  by  Greek  masters  for 
the  adornment  of  king  Juba's  residence.  Adm.  at  any  time;  the 
custodian  ('/2-l  fr.)  shows  also  the  Tbermes  de  l'Ouest  (see  below). 
Catalogue  (1902),  3  fr. ;  conservator,  M.  A.  Munkel. 

Passing  through  the  Entrance  Room  (S.W.  Pavilion;  busts,  statues, 
etc.)  we  enter  the  — 

Salle  Berbrugger  (S.  Gallery).  31.  Marble  statue  of  Venus ;  *1.  Athena 
(torso),  a  copy  in  marble  of  a  famous  bronze  by  Alcamenes  (5th  cent.); 
46.  Torso  of  a  youth  or  Dionysus,  probably  after  a  marble  statue  of  the 
School  of  Praritdes;  10,  13.  Two  torsos  of  Diana;  39 B.  Female  statue 
with  the  attributes  of  Ceres;  33  B.  Aphrodite  (or  Proserpine);  several 
ilraped  female  statues.  —  In  the  middle  of  this  gallery  are  several  marble 
heads  on  brackets:  *64.  Apollo,  after  an  archaic  Attic  original  (early 
5th  cent.);  69.  Juba  II.  as  a  youth;  without  number,  Agrippina. 

South-East  Pavilion.  On  the  walls,  mosaics  (hunting-scenes,  three 
Graces,  etc.).  In  the  centre,  11.  Onyx  statuette  of  Diana  hunting;  109. 
Egyptian  basalt  statue  of  a  king  Thutmosis;  23.  Marble  group  of  Pan  and 
a  Satyr;  34.  Venus. 

The  Salle  Jonnart  (E.  Gallery)  contains  in  glass-cases  pottery,  lamps, 
bronzes,  glass,  coins,  etc.  In  the  middle,  casts  of  statues  found  at  Cher- 
chell  but  now  in  the  Museum  of  Algiers.  —  We  now  cross  the  Central 
Coort,  with  interesting  architectural  specimens,  to  the  — 

Salle  Victor  Waille  (W.  Gallery).  19.  Hercules,  after  an  original 
of  the  oth  cent.;  *7.  Dionysus,  19.  jEsculapius,  both  after  originals  of  the 
4th  cent.;  *17G.  Shepherd,  replica  of  a  work  of  Praxiteles;  21,  22.  Two 
torsos  of  Hermes;  *47.  Torso  of  a  youth. 

North-West  Pavilion.  In  the  middle,  draped  female  statue  (Muse?), 
found  in  the  theatre;  numerous  inscriptions;  fragments  of  sculpture  and 
architecture. 

Salle  Caonat  (N.  Gallery).  *39.  Colossal  female  statue  after  a  model 
by  Phidias;  37.  Canephor  (archaic);  38.  Hermaphrodite  and  a  Satyr 
(Hellenistic).  On  the  N.  wall  on  brackets:  Four  colossal  masks  from 
king  Juba's  palace  mentioned  above  (Pergamenian  School;  1st  cent.). 

North-East  Pavilion.  Inscriptions;  several  objects  of  Punic  origin. 
In  the  centre,  68.  Bust  of  Augustus;  49  B.  Muse.  —  Leaving  this  room  by 
a  door  in  the  N.  wall  we  enter  a  — 

Court  containing  sarcophagi  and   numerous   architectural  fragments. 

Leaving  the  Museum  we  cross  the  Place  Romaine  to  its  W.  side, 
where  we  follow  the  third  side-street  (from  the  N.)  to  the  W". 
and  soon  reach  on  the  right,  nearly  opposite  a  little  mosque,  the 
*Thermes  de  l'Ouest  (W.  Baths),  dating  from  the  2nd  or  3rd 


246     Route  35.  CHERCHELL.  Thermes  de  V  Quest. 

cent.,  the  grandest  Roman  ruins  in  the  town,  with  walls  still  rising 
to  a  height  of  10-13  ft.  (concrete  faced  with  brick)  and  bits  of  old 
mosaic  pavement.  Most  of  the  antiques  in  the  museum  were  found 
in  these  baths,  in  which  they  seem  to  have  been  collected  in  the 
early-Christian  period. 

The  ancient  Portico,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  baths,  once  with  granite 
columns  26  ft.  high,  is  now  embedded  in  the  building  of  the  Manutention, 
and  on  the  S.  side  are  several  chambers  hidden  under  the  Prison  Civile. 

From  the  present  entrance  on  the  S.  E.  side  we  first  come  to  a  suite 
of  five  important  chambers.  The  central  hall,  26  by  16  yds.,  was  probably 
the  Frigidarium,  which  was  flanked  on  three  sides  with  smaller  basins 
(piscina?).  The  two  narrow  passages  behind  the  S.  and  the  N.  basins 
show  traces  of  the  stairs  that  once  ascended  to  the  upper  story. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  frigidarium  is  a  room  supposed  to  have  been 
the  Tepidarium,  which,  like  its  side-rooms,  is  accessible  only  by  climbing 
over  the  walls.  The  hall  behind  the  tepidarium,  with  its  semicircular 
niche,  was  apparently  the  Caldariwm. 

The  Baths  command  a  delightful  view  of  the  sea  and  of  the  coast  to 
the  W.,  as  far  as  Cape  Tenes  (p.  209). 

Proceeding  from  the  Thermes  de  l'Ouest  we  take  the  side-street 
at  the  mosque  mentioned  at  p.  245  to  the  S.  and  reach  the  Rue  de 
Tenes,  the  principal  street  of  the  town  which  leads  to  the  W.  (right) 
to  the  Porte  de  Tenes  (see  below).  "We,  however,  turn  to  the  E.  (left) 
and  then  follow  the  Rue  du  Centre,  the  first  S.  side-street.  In  the 
first  side-street  of  the  last,  on  the  right,  is  the  entrance  to  the  famous 
old  Chief  Mosque  'of  the  hundred  columns',  completed  in  1573,  now 
the  Military  Hospital.  Into  the  original  'house  of  prayer'  a  corridor 
and  four  hospital  dormitories  have  been  built;  the  antique  columns, 
which  are  said  to  have  been  brought  from  the  W.  Baths,  have  been 
disfigured  by  a  coating  of  paint. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  Rue  du  Centre,  on  the  right,  is  a  brick 
wall,  the  sole  relic  of  the  Roman  Thermes  du  Centre. 

A  few  paces  to  the  left,  on  the  hill-side  above  the  Rue  du  Caire, 
are  the  remains  of  the  Roman  Theatre,  unearthed  in  1905.  The 
E.  side-entrance  (parodos),  between  the  stage  and  the  auditorium, 
still  exists,  but  the  27  tiers  of  seats  were  used  for  building  the 
neighbouring  barracks  in  1845. 

The  Barracks  of  the  Tirailleurs,  on  the  hill  above  the  theatre,  stand 
on  six  antique  Cisterns,  once  fed  by  the  Cherchell  aqueduct  (p.  243).  Pass- 
ing through  the  Porte  de  Miliana,  the  S.  gate  behind  the  barracks,  we 
may  now  follow  a  path  through  the  fields  to  the  ruined  walls  of  the 
Roman  Circus,  once  over  435  yds.  long,  which  still  lay  within  the  an- 
cient town-walls. 

Outside  the  Porte  de  Tenes  (comp.  above),  the  W.  town-gate,  on  the 
old  Gunugu  (Oouraya)  road,  lay  several  Roman  Burial  Grounds.  A  col- 
lection of  objects  unearthed  here  has  been  made  by  the  commandant.  M. 
Archambeau,  at  his  country-seat  >/2  M.  from  the  gate. 

From  the  Roman  Theatre  we  follow  the  winding  street  to  the 
N.  and  reach  the  S.  side  of  the  Place  Romaine  at  the  Catholic 
Church,  built  in  the  pseudo-classical  style.  In  front  of  the  high- 
altar  and  at  the  end  of  the  left  aisle  are  two  early-Christian  mosaics. 


MAISON-CARREE.  86.  Route.     247 

We  may  go  down  to  the  Harbour,  either  from  the  Place  Romaine 
•or  via  the  W.  Baths  (p.  245),  passing  a  large  Roman  Basin  (pis- 
cina) and  a  ruined  Turkish  Fort  of  Horuk  Barbarossa  (p.  221). 

The  very  shallow  harbour,  scarcely  5  acres  in  area,  lying  be- 
hind the  fortified  not  Joinvillc  with  its  lighthouse,  is  probably 
identical  with  the  Roman  Naval  Harbour,  where  part  of  the 
Alexandrian  and  Syrian  fleet  was  always  stationed  to  defend  the 
coast  against  pirates.  The  short  pier  at  the  point  of  the  lighthouse- 
island  and  an  old  embankment  on  the  cliffs  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
bay  protected  the  ancient  Commercial  Harbour. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Place  Romaine  and  the  Porte  d' Alger,  at  the 
S.E.  angle  of  the  Champ  de  Manoeuvres,  are  relics  of  the  Thermes 
de  I'Est  (E.  Baths),  including  part  of  the  chief  hall,  22  by  13  yds., 
with  two  niches. 

From  the  highroad,  5  min.  to  the  E.  of  the  drilling-ground,  a 
short  path  to  the  right  leads  to  the  foundation  walls  of  the  Roman 
Amphitheatre,  overgrown  with  dense  scrub.  Since  1845  the  ruins 
have  served  as  a  quarry. 


36.  From  Algiers  to  Cape  Matifou  and  to 
Ain-Taya  via  Maison-Carree. 

20  M.  Steam  Tramway  (p.  219),  three  trains  daily  (five  on  Sun.  and 
holidays)  in  ca.  2'/4  hrs.  (fares  2  fr.  30,  1  fr.  65  c).  — Diligence  from  Roui'ba 
p.  249)  to  (4'/2  M.)  Ain-Taya  twice  daily,  in  1  hr.  —  A  pleasant  drive 
may  be  taken  from  Algiers  to  Ain-Taya  direct. 

The  Steam  Tramway  runs  parallel  with  the  railway  through 
the  S.  E.  suburbs  of  Algiers  (p.  232) ,  past  the  Jardin  d'Essai 
(p.  232),  and  through  the  little  town  of  Hussein-Dey  (p.  233),  to 
the  railway-station  of  Maison-Carree  (p.  217).  It  then  crosses  the 
Harrach  by  a  Turkish  bridge  of  1697. 

7^2  M.  Maison-Carree  (66  ft.;  Hot.  du  Roulage,  Hot.  de 
PHarrach,  both  humble;  pop.  7300,  incl.  2700  Mohammedans  and 
3200  foreigners,  mostly  Spaniards),  prettily  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Harrach,  amidst  hills  rising  some  200  ft.  above  the 
stream,  possesses  an  agricultural  school  and  an  interesting  cattle- 
market  (Prid.).  It  owes  its  name  to  the  square  Turkish  Citadel, 
built  in  1746,  now  the  Prison  deV Harrach,  used  for  native  convicts. 

About  l'/«  M.  to  the  N.  of  Maiaon-Carrt5e,  rear  the  sea,  lies  the  Mo- 
ruutere  St.  Joseph,  the  headquarters  of  the  Missions  d'Afriqne  founded  by 
Oard.  Lavigerie  (p.  346),  whose  members  owe  their  name  of  White  Fathers 
(Peres  Blancs)  to  their  white  gowns  Arabian  in  appearance.  The  mon- 
astery owns  an  ethnographical  collection  from  the  interior  of  Africa. 

From  Maison-Carrfie  the  steam -tramway  mentioned  at  p.  219  runs 
across  the  Mitidja  to  (19  M.)  L'Arba  (335  ft.;  Hot.  des  Etrangers;  Hot. 
de  l'Arba),  a  small  town  of  2300  inhab.,  with  an  important  Wednesday 
market  (Arabic  arbsia),  and  then  along  the  foot  of  the  Atlas,  partly  through 

Baedeker's  Mediterranean.  lg 


248     Route  se.  MATIFOU. 

orange-groves,  to  (23  M.)  Rovigo  (361  ft.;  Hot.  des  Eaux-Thermales;  Hot 
du  Commerce;  pop.  4200,  chiefly  Mohammedan).  This  is  the  station  for 
(4'/2  M.)  Hammam-Melouan  (ahout  720  ft.),  a  small  watering-place  with 
hot  saline  springs,  chiefly  patronized  by  natives,  in  the  narrow  ravine 
of  the  llarrach. 

A  picturesque  hill-road  leads  from  L'Arba  to  (59  M.)  Aumalc  (p.  250; 
diligence  in  12  hrs.)  via  (M'/a  M.)  Sakamody  (2585  ft.),  (47»/2  M.)  Bir- 
Babalou  (2106  ft.),  and  (50'/a  M.)  Les  Trembles. 

The  Matifou  road  ascends  to  the  top  of  the  hill-chain  and  leads 
to  the  E.  to  the  village  of  (10  M.)  Retour-de-la-Chasse  (75  ft.), 
2  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  railway-station  Maison-Blanche  (p.  249),  and 
to  (15V2  M.)  Roiiiba  (p.  249). 

The  Steam  Tramway  follows  the  direct  road  from  Maison-Carree 
to  the  N.E.  to  (12  M.)  Fort-de-1'Eau  (16  ft.;  Hot.-Restaur.  du 
Casino,  on  the  shore;  Hot.  de  la  Plage  aod  others,  plain),  a  small 
sea-bathing  place  with  many  villas  and  a  fine  beach.  Fine  view  of 
Algiers  and  the  spurs  of  Mont  Bouzareah.  The  old  Turkish  coast- 
fort,  Bordj  el-Kifan,  of  1581,  stormed  by  the  Foreign  Legion  in 
1833,  is  now  the  Caserne  de  Douaniers.  The  village,  noted  for  its 
banana-culture,  is  inhabited  chiefly  by  'Mahonnais'  (p.  233). 

From  the  village  we  proceed  to  the  N.E.,  a  little  inland  from 
the  bay,  which  is  now  much  choked  with  sand,  through  tame  fields 
and  underwood,  to  the  Oued  el-Hamiz.  Here  we  turn  to  the  N., 
soon  obtaining  a  view  of  the  broad  Bay  of  Algiers  and  the  distant 
Atlas  of  Blida,  and  traverse  the  extensive  plafeau  of  Cape  Matifou 
(236  ft.;  Arabic  Rds  Temendfus). 

17  M.  Matifou  (210  ft.),  a  poor  village,  lies  about  l»/2  M.  to 
the  E.  of  the  site  of  the  Roman  town  of  Rusguniae,  where,  under 
the  dense  brushwood,  the  remains  of  baths  and  the  foundations  of 
an  early-Christian  basilica  have  been  discovered.  The  church,  ori- 
ginally with  nave  and  aisles,  was  rebuilt  in  the  Byzantine  period 
with  double  aisles  and  a  W.  apse. 

The  small  Harbour  beyond  the  village,  where  Emp.  Charles  V.  em- 
barked the  remnant  of  his  army  in  1511  (eomp.  p.  221),  is  now  a  quaran- 
tine station  for  vessels  and  a  port  for  pilgrims  (Mers  el-Hadjadjeh).  The 
Mohammedans  returning  from  Mecca,  usually  including  many  Moroccans, 
have  to  spend  several  days  here  in  the  large  Lazantto  built  in  1884. 

Besides  the  Bordj  Temendfo//s,  the  interesting  old  Turkish  fort,  there 
are  also  on  the  peninsula  the  French  Fort  d'Estre'es,  a  Lighthouse  (207  ft.), 
visible  from  32  M.,  and  a  Semaphore.  On  the  shore,  where  there  are 
traces  of  a  breakwater,  a  large  tunny-net  (madrague)  is  set  in  summer. 
The  fishermen  are  mostly  Corsicans  and  S.  Italians  from  the  villages  of 
La  Perouse  and  Jean-Bart. 

Beyond  Matifou  we  skirt  the  E.  margin  of  the  peninsula,  soon 
sighting  the  fine  coast  of  Great  Kabylia  as  far  as  Cape  Bengut 
(p.  254),  and  run  to  the  S.E.,  past  some  Roman  ruins,  to  the  village 
of  Ain-Be'ida. 

20  M.  Ain-Taya  (131  ft.;  Hot.  du  Figuier,  R,  2-4,  B.  8/4, 
dej.  orD.  2lJ^-d,  pens.  6-7  fr.,  quite  good),  a  pleasant  agricultural 
village,  is  inhabited  chiefly  by  Spaniards.    From  the  chief  place 


ALMA.  «7.  Route.     249 

a  short  avenue  of  plane-trees  and  palms  leads  to  the  N.E.  to  the 
steep  edge  of  the  coast  and  the  fine  bathing-beach. 

From  the  S.  margin  of  the  plateau,  on  the  highroad  beyond 
Al'n-Taya,  we  obtain  a  delightful  *View  of  the  E.  Mitidja  with  its 
girdle  of  mountains.  The  road  then  descends  to  (24'/2  M.)  Rouiba 
(see  below),  whence  we  may  take  the  train  back  to  Algiers  or  else 
to  Menerville  (p.  250). 


37.  From  Algiers  to  Bougie  via  Beni- 
Mansour. 

162  M.  Railway,  in  73/4  hrs.  By  the  Constantino  morning-express 
(p.  269)  in  43/4  hrs.  to  Bem-Mansour  (Rail.  Restaurant;  meals  ;;t  Bouira 
or  at  Bougie  should  be  ordered  beforehand)  where  carriages  are  changed; 
thence  by  ordinary  train  to  (3  hrs.)  Bougie  (fares  29  fr.  20,  20  fr.  85, 
15  fr.  65  c).  The  Constantine  night-express  (p.  269)  may  be  taken  as  far 
as  Bou'ira,  where  in  this  case  the  rest  of  the  night  must  be  spent.  —  Or 
we  may  take  the  Motok  Omnibus  from  Algiers  to  Boulra.  —  Sea  Voyage 
from  Algiers  to  Bougie,  comp.  R.  22. 

From  Algiers  to  (7J/2  M.)  Maison-Carrie,  see  p.  247.  Here 
our  line,  which  forms  part  of  the  main  E.  Algerian  line  to  Con- 
stantine (R.  43)  and  Biskra  (R.  44)  diverges  from  the  Oran  line 
(R.  33)  to  the  S.E.  The  train  crosses  the  Harrach  and  skirts  the 
S.  side  of  the  hills  near  Maison-Carree.  View,  to  the  right,  of  the 
Tell  Atlas  and  the  serrated  Jebel  Bou-Zegza  (3386  ft.). 

Beyond  (12  M.)  Maison- Blanche  (36  ft.)  the  plateau  adjoining 
Cape  Matifou  (p.  248)  appears  on  the  left.  We  cross  the  Oued 
el-Hamiz. 

16  M.  Rouiba  (60  ft.;  Hot.  Glacier;  Hot.  de  France),  a  large 
village  in  the  most  fertile  part  of  the  E.  Mitidja,  with  many  vine- 
yards.   Diligence  to  (4'/2  M.)  Ain-Taya,  see  pp.  247,  248. 

20  M.  Regha'ia.  We  cross  the  Oued  Regha'ia  and  pass  through 
the  so-called  Foret  de  la  Regha'ia,  with  its  sparse  cork-trees. 

2472  M.  Alma  (66  ft.;  Hot.  du  Cheval-Blanc;  Hot.  d'Europe, 
etc.),  8/4  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  station,  occupies  an  idyllic  site  among 
hills  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Oued  Boudouahou. 

The  Hioh  Road  leads  from  the  right  hank  of  the  Boudouahou  in  long 
windings  through  the  beautiful  hill-couutry  of  the  Sahel,  which  flanks 
the  N.  side  of  the  Tell  Atlas.  Passing  mostly  through  underwood  it 
crosses  the  Oued  Corso,  and  leads  via  the  villages  of  Ste.  Marie-du-Corso 
(125  ft.)  and  Belle- Fontaine  (p.  250),   on  the  left,   to  MinerviUe  (p.  250). 

The  railway,  carried  partly  through  cuttings,  intersects  the 
Sahel  to  the  N.E.  26  M.  Corso-Tahtdni  (118  ft.),  3/4  M.  from  the 
sea,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Oued  Corso.  To  the  left  we  have  a  brief 
outlook  towards  the  sea.  In  the  foreground  rise  the  hills  of  the 
Sahel  as  far  as  Cape  Djinet  (p.  253). 

The  train  leaves  the  coast,  passing  at  places  through  cuttings 
and  between  pleasant  hills  planted  with  mimosa,  and  enters,  to  the 

16* 


250     Route  37.  BOUIRA.  From  Algiers 

S.E.,  the  vale  of  the  Oued  Bou  Merdts,  resplendent  in  spring  with 
its  mantle  of  golden  broom. 

30^2  M.  Belle- Fontaine  (167  ft.);  the  village  lies  on  a  fine 
open  hill  to  the  right  (466  ft.).  We  next  pass  between  mimosa-clad 
hills,  backed  by  wooded  mountains,  and  through  a  defile  which 
forms  the  portal  of  the  Isser  valley  and  Great  Kabylia  (p.  252). 

34  M.  MenerviUe  (492  ft.;  Hot.  Blanchard,  plain  but  good), 
on  the  Col  des  Beni-Aicha,  a  dirty  village  of  3000  inhab.,  is  the 
junction  for  Tizi-Ouzou  (R.  38). 

Our  line  descends  to  the  S.E.  into  the  valley  of  the  Isser,  and 
then  ascends  on  its  left  bank.    38  M.  Souk  el-Haad  (230  ft.). 

Beyond  (40'/2  M.)  Beni-Amran  (420  ft.)  begins  the  grand 
Ravine  of  the  Isser  (Gorges  de  Palestro  or  des  Beni-Hinni),  which 
pierces  the  Massif  des  Beni-Kalfoun,  4!/2  M.  long,  rivalling  the 
gorge  of  the  Chiifa  (p.  215).  Views  chiefly  to  the  right;  but  owing 
to  the  numerous  tunnels  we  see  little  of  the  bold  limestone  rocks. 

48  M.  Palestro  (525  ft;  Hot.  de  France,  dej.  2  fr.,  Hot.  du 
Commerce,  both  humble),  a  poor  village  of  600  inhab.  (with  Wednes- 
day market),  defended  by  a  fort,  lies  in  the  fertile  central  section 
of  the  Isser  valley.  Near  it  rises  Jebel  Tegrimoun  or  Tegrimont 
(3373  ft.),  the  highest  of  the  Massif  des  Beni-Kalfoun  (see  above), 
commanding  the  famous  view  of  the  Jurjura  Mts.  (p.  258). 

Beyond  (55  M.)  Thiers  (624  ft.)  the  train  leaves  the  Isser,  offer- 
ing a  glimpse  of  the  head  of  its  valley  to  the  right,  and  turns  to 
the  E.  into  the  tame  valley  of  its  tributary  Oued  Djem&a. 

6IV2  M.  Aomar-Dra  el-Mizan  (778  ft.),  station  for  Aomar 
(1266  ft.)  and  (772  M.)  Dra  el-Mizan  (p.  254;  diligence). 

The  train  runs  to  the  S.  E.  along  the  foot  of  the  Beni  Small 
Mts.  (p.  254),  and  then,  curving  far  round  to  the  E.,  ascends 
rapidly  to  the  head  of  the  valley  of  the  Djemaa,  here  called  Oued 
Bezzit,  and  to  the  Col  de  Dra  el-Khemis  (1962  ft.),  the  saddle 
between  the  W.  Jurjura  range  and  the  hills  of  Arn-Bessem  (see 
below).  Threading  a  tunnel  the  train  then  descends  to  the  S.  to  the 
Plaine  du  Hamza,  the  upper  region  of  the  Oued  Eddous  valley 
(called  Oued  Sahel  lower  down;  p.  251). 

7672  M.  Bouira  (1722  ft.;  Rail.  Restaur.;  H6t.  de  la  Colonie, 
R.  2-3,  B.  3/4-l,  dej.  272,  D.  3  fr.;  Hot.  des  Voyageurs;  pop.  7500), 
a  small  town  with  an  old  Turkish  fort  and  a  great  Saturday  market 
largely  attended  by  Kabyles  (p.  252),  is  connected  by  hill-paths 
with  Boghni  (p.  254)  and  Fort-National  (p.  257). 

A  Road  (diligence  twice  daily)  leads  to  the  S.W.  from  Bou'ira  through 
the  valley  of  the  Oued  Lekhal  to  (15>/2  M.)  Ain-Bessem  (2221  ft.)  in  the 
Plaine  des  Aribs,  and  thence  to  the  S.  to  (29  M.)  Aumale  (2907  ft. ;  Hot. 
Grossat,  R.  2»/»,  dej.  3,  D.  31/2,  pens.  10-12  fr.;  Hot.  Raveu;  pop.  6100),  a 
little  town  on  the  N.E.  spurs  of  Jebel  Dira  (5938  ft.).  This  was  the  an- 
cient Auzia,  an  important  station  on  the  Roman  road  to  Mauretania  (p.  124), 
of  which  numerous  epigraphical  monuments  are  now  in  the  Museum. 


to  Bougie.  BENI-MANSOUR.  37.  Route.     251 

A  beautiful  road  (p.  248)  leads  from  Aumale  to  L'Arba  aoid  Algiers  ; 
another  to  (20  M.)  Sidi-Aissa  and  (84  M.)  Bou-Sadda  (p.  270;  diligence 
at  11  a.  m.,  in  22  hrs.). 

The  train  now  descends  to  the  E.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Oued 
Eddous;  on  the  left  tower  the  rocks  of  the  Jurjura  (Jebel  Ha'i~er 
and  Jebel  Akovker,  p.  258).  85  M.  El-Esnam.  93V2  M.  El-Adjiba 
(1247  ft.),  near  the  influx  of  the  Oued  Zdiane  into  the  Eddous, 
whiiii  now  takes  the  name  of  Oued  Sahel  (the  ancient  Navasath). 

From  El-Adjiba  across  the  Tizi  n-Assoual  to  Fort-National,  see  p.  258. 

IOOV2  M.  Maillot  (1477  ft. ;  Hot.  des  Voyageurs,  R.  2  fr.,  dej. 
or  D.  2  fr.,  Hot.  de  la  Poste,  Hot.  de  l'Union,  all  poor),  a  small 
village  2^2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  station  (about  1050  ft.;  diligence 
meets  some  of  the  trains),  lies  on  the  slope  of  the  Lalla  Khedidja 
(7572  ft.;  p.  259),  the  highest  peak  of  the  Jurjura,  famed  for  its 
cedar-forests  (comp.  p.  210). 

From  Maillot  via  the  Tirourda  Pass  to  Michelet,  Fort- National,  and 
Tizi-Ouzou,  see  R.  39;  via  Fort- National  to  Azazga  (Bougie),  E.  40. 

107  M.  Beni-Mansour  (948  ft.;  Rail.  Restaurant,  dej.  or 
D.  3  fr.,  good),  junction  of  the  main  line  to  Constantine  and  Biskra 
(RR.  43, 44)  with  the  Bougie  branch,  lies  on  the  boundary  between 
the  provinces  of  Algiers  and  Constantine.  Near  it  is  the  finely 
situated  old  French  fort,  Bordj  de  Beni-Mansour,  now  a  school. 
Sunday  market  near  the  station. 

The  Bougie  line  (change  carriages)  crosses  the  Oued  Mahrir 
(p.  269),  near  its  influx  into  the  Oued  Sahel,  and  crosses  the  latter 
mar  the  mouth  of  the  Oued  Tixiriden  (p.  260). 

112  M.  Tazmalt  (902  ft.;  Hot.  des  Voyageurs),  V2  M.  to  the 
N.W.  of  the  station,  the  first  village  in  the  province  of  Constantine, 
with  extensive  olive-groves,  lies  near  the  Oued  Beni  Mellilceuch. 
This,  like  Maillot,  is  a  station  for  the  Tirourda  Pass  (R.  39).  — ■ 
To  the  S.  of  the  railway  rise  the  Beni  Abbes  Mts. 

Below  (115  M.)  Allayhan  (774  ft.)  the  Sahel  valley  contracts. 
On  the  left  rises  the  Piton  d'AJcbou,  crowned  with  a  late-Roman 
tomb  of  the  3rd  cent,  (a  step-pyramid  on  a  square  base),  but  not 
visible  from  the  train.  On  the  right,  beyond  the  mouth  of  the 
copious  Oued  Bou  Sellam  (p.  269),  which  rises  in  the  mountains  of 
Little  Kabylia  (p.  266),  the  serrated  Jebel  Gueldaman  (2638  ft.) 
juts  far  into  the  valley. 

122  M.  Akbou  (1050  ft. ;  Hot.  du  Sahel ;  Hot.  Bellevue ;  pop.  1200 ; 
Mon.  market),  a  large  village,  is  the  starting-point  of  a  path  to  the 
Col  de  Chellata  (p.  260).   Grand  eucalypti  in  the  environs. 

Far  away  to  the  left  as  we  proceed  towers  Jebel  Arbalou  (p.  262). 
126  M.  Azib-ben-Ali-Chcrif  (512  ft.) ;  1281/,,  M.  Ighzer-Amokran, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  brook  of  that  name.  The  broad  floor  of  the 
valley  is  clothed  with  meagre  underwood. 

133  M.  Takritz,  or  Takriets  (364  ft.),  is  the  station  also  for 
Seddouk,  51/,  M.  to  the  S.  E.;  136  M.  Sidi-Aich  (295  ft.)  has  a 


252     Route  38  GREAT  KABYLIA.  From  Algiers 

Wednesday  market  well  attended  by  the  neighbouring  FenaHa 
(p.  261)  and  Beni  Himmel  tribes.  Olives  abound  on  the  hill-sides 
farther  on;  in  the  valley  below  is  a  small  grove  of  fig-trees. 

142  M.  R-Maten  (361  ft.),  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Sahel,  whose 
valley,  now  called  La  Soummam,  is  fever-stricken  lower  down 

On  the  left  bank  of  the  Sahel,  near  Tiklat,  a  village  about  halfway 
between  Il-Maten  and  El-Kseur,  are  the  interesting  ruins  of  the  Roman 
town  of  Thubusitctu  or  Thitbitsuptns.  Fragments  of  the  walls  of  the 
baths,  33  ft.  high,  are  still  standing;  the  great  Cisternes  d'El-Arouia  are 
83  yds.  long  and  41  yds.  wide;  and  there  are  relics  of  two  aqueducts 
besides  many  tombs. 

147  M.  El-Kseur-Amizour.  The  village  of  El-Kseur  (p.  261) 
lies  1j2  M.  to  the  N.,  on  the  Azazga  road;  that  of  Oued-Amizour  is 
33/4M.  to  the  S.  E.  of  the  station.  149l/2  M.  Tombeau  de  la  Neige. 

154'/2  M.  La  Reunion  (53  ft.),  on  the  slope  to  the  left,  is  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Oued  Rhir  or  Ghir.  Road  (8  M.)  to  Toudja  (p.  262). 

The  train,  running  to  the  N.  E.,  now  enters  the  plain  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Sahel.  Fine  view,  to  the  right,  of  the  Gulf  of  Bougie 
and  the  hills  of  Little  Kabylia.  In  the  foreground,  beyond  the 
wooded  and  fertile  Plaine,  watered  by  the  Oued  Srir,  appears 
Jebel  Gouraya  (p.  265). 

162  M.  Bougie,  see  p.  262. 


38.  From  Algiers   to  Tizi-Ouzou.     Prom 
Camp-du-Marechal  to  Tigzirt. 

From  Algiers  to  Tizi-Ouzou,  66V2  M.,  railway  in  3'I2-63U  hrs. ;  fares 
12  fr.,  8  fr.  55,  6  fr.  45  c;  1st  cl.  return  16  fr.  90  c.  (to  Camp-du-Marechal, 
56  M.,  in  3-53/4  hrs.;  fares  10  fr.  10,  7  fr.  20,  5  fr.  40  c.).  —  From  Camp- 
du-Marechal  to  Dellys,  19>/2  M.,  light  railway  in  ca.  l»/«  hr.  (2  fr.  35  or 
1  fr.  70  c).  —  From  Dellys  to  Tigzirt,  16  M.,  diligence  in  3  hrs.  (at  night 
only).  —  Motoring  Tours,  comp.  p.  173. 

The  railway  to  Tizi-Ouzou  forms  the  chief  approach  to  Great  Kabylia 
or  Grande  Kabt/lie,  for  which  the  best  season  is  April  or  May,  when 
the  bare  limestone  peaks  of  the  Jurjura  (p.  258)  are  still  capped  with 
their  winter  snow,  while  the  lower  hills  are  clothed  with  the  fresh  verdure 
of  spring.  Most  travellers  are  satisfied  with  a  visit  to  Fort-National  and 
Michelet  and  the  drive  across  the  Tirourda  Pass  (R.  39)  br.t  the  long  route 
from  Fort-National  to  Bougie  via  Azazga  and  Taourirt-Ighil  (R.  40)  also  is 
quite  interesting.  Beautiful  coast  scenery  between  Dellys  and  Tigzirt. 
The  ruins  at  the  latter  will  interest  archaeologists.  The  hotel-charges  are 
everywhere  disproportionate  to  the  services  rendered,  and  the  cuisine  is 
generally  indifferent.  Fairly  good  quarters  are  to  be  found  only  at  Tizi- 
Ouzou,  Tigzirt,  Michelet,  Azazga,  and  Taourirt-Ighil. 

The  so-called  Kabyles  (from  the  Arabic  kebila,  tribe)  consisted,  as 
far  back  as  the  Roman  period,  of  five  Berber  tribes,  united  to  form  a 
state  with  a  democratic  constitution.  In  their  remote  mountain  villages 
(thaddart)  they  successively  repelled  the  attacks  of  the  Romans,  the  Arabs, 
and  the  Turks,  and  it  was  not  till  1852-7  that  the  French  after  protracted 
struggles  succeeded  in  subduing  them.  During  the  Turkish  period  they 
were  called  Zuawas,  whence  the  modern  French  Zouaves  derive  their 
name.  Their  language  is  a  Berber  dialect  mingled  with  Latin  and  Arabic 
words.     The  men  in  the  over-peopled  W.  and  S.  regions   often   migrate 


to  Tizi-Ouzou.  CAMP-DU-MARECHAL.  38.  Route.     253 

to  the  Algerian  towns  and  even  to  foreign  countries  as  hawkers  (iattaren), 
or  to  the  Mitidja  as  harvest  labourers.  The  women,  who  are  unveiled 
and  often  adorned  with  valuable  trinkets,  are  seen  to  advantage  at  the 
wells.    Many  of  the  girls  have  pretty  faces  and  good  figures. 

Prom  Algiers  to  (34  M.)  Menerville,  see  pp.  249,  250.  To  the 
left  of  the  train,  halfway  to  Felix-Faure,  is  the  so-called  Mausolee 
de  Blad-Guitoun,  the  sadly  dilapidated  tomb,  originally  33  ft.  high, 
of  a  Christian  Berber  prince  (4th  or  5th  cent.),  in  the  style  of  the 
later  Djedar  (p.  208),  but  with  an  octagonal  base.  The  interior, 
like  that  of  the  Tom  beau  de  la  Chretienne  (p.  23S),  contains  a  lion 
in  relief,  a  winding  gallery,  and  a  tomb-chamber.  The  pyramid 
with  its  steps  has  disappeared. 

38  M.  Felix-Faure-Cuurbet.  From  the  village  of  Felix-Faure 
(236  ft.),  formerly  called  Blad-Guitoun,  near  the  station,  a  road 
(diligence  twice  daily)  leads  to  the  N.  through  the  hilly  Sahel  to 
(47s  M.)  Zaatra  and'(5'/2  M.)  Courbet  (253  ft.),  two  villages  chiefly 
inhabited  by  settlers  from  Alsace  and  Lorraine. 

The  road  ends  at  (8^/4  M.)  Port-aux- Ponies  or  Mers  el-Hadjadjeh  (p.  248), 
a  decayed  seaport  on  the  site  of  the  Roman  Rusitbricari,  the  ruins  of 
which  have  been  almost  entirely  swept  away  by  the  waves. 

The  train  crosses  the  Isser  by  viaducts  of  110  and  160  yds.  in 
length.  40'/2  M.  Les  Issers  (82  ft.;  Hot.  du  Marche,  Hot.  des 
Issers,  both  humble)  is  the  station  for  Isserville  (213  ft.;  Hot.  Sige), 
which  holds  a  busy  Thursday  market.  Diligence  to  (24y2  M.)  Dra 
d-Mizan  (p.  254). 

43»/2  M.  Bordj-Mdnaiel  (53  ft.;  Hot.  du  Roulage;  pop.  1100) 
holds  market  on  Fridays. 

A  Road  leads  to  the  N.  from  Bordj-Munai'el  through  the  Isser  valley, 
avoiding  the  sand-hills  at  the  mouth  of  the  stream,  and  then  skirting 
Jebel  Djinet,  the  'frontier  pillar'  of  Great  Kabylia,  to  (10  M.)  the  small 
bay,  opening  towards  the  W.,  of  Mersa  Djinet,  near  Cape  Djinet  (164  ft.), 
whose  basalt-quarries  have  yielded  paving-stones  for  Algiers. 

The  train  leaves  the  Isser  and  ascends  to  the  E.  in  the  valley 
of  the  Oued  Chender  to  (51  M.)  Haussonvillers  (492  ft.;  Hot.  des 
Postes),  peopled  by  settlers  from  Alsace-Lorraine.  We  are  now 
carried  over  four  viaducts,  each  over  100  ft.  high,  and  through 
tunnels  on  the  N.  slope  of  the  finely-shaped  Beni  Mekla  hills 
(2920  ft.),  down  to  the  Sebaou  Valley,  the  chief  valley  of  Great 
Kabylia.    In  the  distance  appears  Jebel  Belloua  (p.  254). 

56  M.  Camp-du-Marechal  (184  ft.;  Hot.  Frceliger),  peopled 
by  Alsace-Lorrainers,  has  a  Tuesday  and  a  Thursday  market.  Cork- 
tree woods  in  the  environs. 

From  Camp-du-Marcchal  to  Dellys  and  Tigzirt,  see  pp.  254,  255. 

We  cross  the  Bougdoura.  60l/2  M.  Mirabean  (154  ft.;  Hot. 
Caratero,  humble). 

Fkom  Mirabeau  to  Boghni,  183/4  M.,  light  railway  (continuation  of 
the  line  from  Dellys),  in  ca.  l:,/4  hr.  (2  fr.  25  or  1  fr.  65  c).  The  train  at  first 
runs  to  the  S.  on  the  Dra  el-Mizan  road  (p.  251),  through  a  eucalyptus 
avenue  in  the  broad  and  featureless  lower  valley  of  the  Bougdoura,  to  beyond 
(4'/3  M.)  Tleta.    A  little  farther  on  it  leaves  the  highroad  and  penetrates 


254     Route  38.  DELLYS.       From  Camp-du- Marshal 

very  narrow  cuttings  up  the  winding  upper  Bougdoura  valley,  past  (12  M.) 
Maatkas,  in  the  territory  of  the  tribe  of  that  name,  to  (l83/4  M.)  Boghni 
(755  ft. ;  Hot.  Ricard,  Hot.  Grossiard,  both  humble).  The  little  village  lies 
in  the  fertile  green  valley  of  the  stream,  here  called  Oiied  Boghni,  between 
the  lower  hills  and  Jebel  Haizer  or  Haizeur,  the  chief  peaks  of  which 
are  R&8  Tachgagalt  or  Pic  Ficheur  (7044  ft.)  to  the  E.  and  Tamgout 
Hdizer  (6965  ft.)  to  the  W.  From  Boghni  to  Ain-Sultan  and  Fort-National, 
see  pp.  258,  257. 

From  Mirabeau  to  Dra  el-Mizan  (26  M.).  The  highroad,  beyond  the 
cuttings  near  TliJta  (p.  253),  crosses  the  Bougdoura  and  runs  to  the  W. 
for  a  short  time  in  the  valley  of  the  Oiied  Aguergoun,  in  view  of  the 
tine  S.  slopes  of  the  Beni  Mekla  Mts.  (p.  253).  It  then  bends  to  the  S.W. 
into  the  pretty  and  secluded  valley  of  the  Acif  Tleta  or  Oiied  Kessari, 
which  here  intersects  the  lower  hills  and  for  a  distance  of  17  M.  contains 
not  a  single  human  habitation.  The  hill-sides,  however,  are  carefully 
cultivated  by  the  neighbouring  villagers,  and  are  well  planted  with  fig  and 
olive-trees,  eucalypti,  and  cork-oaks.  We  then  ascend  a  high  plateau, 
with  a  superb  view  of  Jebel  Haizer  (see  above),  to  the  village  of  (26  M.) 
Dra  el-Mizan  (1525  ft.;  Hot.  Bellevue,  Hot.  du  Commerce,  both  humble), 
once  famed  for  its  textile  fabrics,  situated  on  the  N.W.  spurs  of  the 
Beni  Small  Mts.  (p.  250;  10  M.  to  the  W.  of  Boghni;  diligence).  A  pictur- 
esque road  (7Va  M. ;  diligence)  leads  from  Dra  el-Mizan,  to  the  S.W., 
across  the  Tizi  el-Arba  (beyond  this,  another  view  of  Jebel  Haizer),  to 
the  rail,  station  of  Aomar-Dra  el-Mizan  (p.  250). 

The  train  next  crosses  the  Oued  Sebt,  approaches  the  Sebaou 
after  a  long  bend  to  the  N.,  and  then  ascends  past  the  Alsatian  village 
of  (64V2  M.)  Bou-Klialfa  (161  ft.),  near  the  wooded  W.  slope  of 
the  finely  situated  Jebel  Belloua  (2280  ft.). 

66V2  M.  Tizi-Ouzou  (620  ft.;  Hot.  Lagarde,  It.  3-5,  B.  l»/4, 
dej.  3,  D.  3V21  omn-  V2  fr-i  quite  good;  Hot.  du  Square  and  Hot.  du 
Roulage,  unpretending;  pop.  29,620),  the  chief  town  and  market 
(Sat.)  in  the  interior  of  Great  Kabylia.  Jebel  Belloua  may  be  as- 
cended hence,  and  the  poor  and  dirty  Kabyle  village  at  the  N.  end 
of  the  little  town  may  be  visited  by  the  curious. 

From  Tizi-Ouzou  to  Fort  National  and  Michelet  (Tirourda  Pass), 
see  R.  39. 


The  Light  Railway  to  Dellys  (19'/2  M. ;  p.  252)  descends  to 
the  N.  from  Camp-du-Mare'chal  (p.  253)  through  the  broad  Sebaou 
Valley,  past  unimportant  stations;  then,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
stream,  it  turns  to  the  N.E.,  away  from  the  highroad,  and  skirts 
the  coast,  which  is  at  first  flat  and  sandy  and  afterwards  bold,  and 
abrupt.  To  the  left  rises  the  lighthouse,  famed  for  its  view,  on 
Cape  Bengut  (207  ft.),  a  spur  of  Jebel  Ouamri  (1227  ft.),  com- 
posed partly  of  basalt  and  other  eruptive  rocks. 

We  now  proceed  to  the  E.,  at  first  through  orchards  and  then 
on  an  embankment  26  ft.  high,  on  the  brink  of  a  grand  abraded 
terrace,  1  M.  long,  flanked  with  narrow  perpendicular  ledges  of 
sandstone.  We  then  pass  through  a  short  tunnel  under  the  'dagger- 
pointed'  Cape  Dellys. 

19V2  M.  Dellys  (203  ft.;  Hot.  de  laColonie;  pop.  3000,  of 


to  Tigzirt.  TIGZIRT.  38.  Route.      255 

whom  2000  are  Mohammedans,  mostly  Berbers  of  the  Arab  type), 
a  quiet  little  seaport,  the  W.  sea-gate  of  Great  Kabylia,  probably  on 
the  site  of  the  Roman  Cissi,  rises  in  terraces  with  luxuriant  gardens 
on  the  E.  slope  of  Cape  Dellys,  at  the  end  of  which  is  a  small  light- 
house. The  deserted  harbour  is  fairly  protected  against  N.  and 
X.W.  winds  only;  the  unfinished  works  at  the  end  of  the  headland 
have  been  destroyed  by  the  waves.  Dellys  offers  little  attraction 
beyond  the  strikingly  beautiful  view,  stretching  as  far  as  Cape 
Tedles  (p.  256).  A  few  relics  of  Roman  Cisterns  and  Thermae  also 
may  be  visited.  The  Native  Quarter  is  very  picturesque.  The 
Ecole  Nationale  d' Apprentissage  des  Arts  et  Metiers,  numbering 
many  Kabyle  pupils,  was  transferred  hither  from  Fort-National 
(p.  257)  in  1871. 

The  *Coast  Road  to  Tigzirt  (16  M. ;  diligence,  see  p.  252) 
leads  to  the  E.  from  Dellys,  up  and  down  hill,  in  many  windings, 
past  small  headlands  and  bays  and  the  estuaries  of  torrents.  At  first 
we  observe  isolated  European  settlements,  but  farther  on  we  pass 
through  underwood  and  the  fields  and  fig-groves  of  the  Kabyle  hill- 
folk.  The  latter  half  of  the  route  leads  through  remains  of  the  Foret 
de  Mizrana. 

16  M.  Tigzirt  (66  ft.;  Hot.  des  Ruiues-Romaines,  plain;  pop. 
barely  200),  a  poor  little  agricultural  village  founded  in  1888,  with 
a  lively  Wednesday  market,  occupies  part  of  the  site  of  the  ancient 
Rusuccuru.  This,  as  the  name  indicates,  was  originally  a  Berber 
settlement;  it  afterwards  became  a  Phoenician  seaport.  In  the  late- 
Roman  period  it  vied  with  Saldae  (p.  263)  as  one  of  the  most  populous 
places  on  this  part  of  the  coast,  and  under  the  Byzantines  it  was 
still  fairly  prosperous. 

The  village  lies  on  a  low  coast-terrace  behind  Cape  Tigzirt,  a 
small  headland,  running  out  to  a  storm-beaten  rocky  island,  with 
which  in  the  Roman  period  it  was  connected  by  a  quay.  The 
Roman  Town  Wall  extended  from  one  shore  to  the  other,  as  did 
also  the  shorter  Byzantine  Wall,  which  was  nearer  the  promon- 
tory. The  new  buildings  erected  by  the  Byzantines,  now  a  mass  of 
ruins  overgrown  by  bushes,  superseded  most  of  the  Roman  edifices 
on  the  promontory.  The  sole  relic  of  the  latter  is  a  small  *Temple 
(14s/4  by  7  yds.)  of  the  time  of  Septimius  Severus,  of  unusually 
heavy  and  massive  form,  which,  according  to  the  inscription,  was 
dedicated  to  the  genius  of  the  municipium  of  Rusuccuru.  The  lofty 
front-wall  of  the  cella,  borne  by  two  columns,  immediately  adjoins 
the  small  court  of  the  temple  without  an  intervening  vestibule. 

The  Roman  ruins  between  the  two  town-walls,  on  the  inland 
side,  have  been  mostly  either  destroyed  or  built  over  by  the  modern 
villagers. 

The  most  important  of  the  old  buildings  at  Rusuccuru  is  the 
*Bisuop'b  CauRcn,  situated  close  to  the  Roman  town-wall  in  the 


256     Route  38.  TAKSEPT. 

E.  part  of  the  village.  Originally  a  columnar  basilica,  44  by  23  yds., 
probably  of  the  5th  cent.,  it  is  now  a  picturesque  chaos  of  ruins, 
with  remains  of  the  old  mosaic  pavement. 

The  entrances  were  through  the  chief  portal  in  the  narrow  W.  vesti- 
bule and  by  three  smaller  doorways  in  the  wall  of  the  facade,  leading 
into  an  inner  vestibule  built  into  the  nave.  There  are  still  traces  of  the 
two  arcades  of  the  nave,  borne  by  clustered  columns,  all  brought  from 
ancient  buildings,  which  rested  without  bases  on  stone  pedestals.  The 
rich  plastic  decoration  of  the  imposts,  with  a  touch  of  the  Punic  style, 
is  noteworthy.  The  galleries  over  the  aisles,  accessible  by  outside  stairs 
on  the  N.E.  side  only,  were  ruined  by  fire  at  an  early  period. 

On  each  side  of  the  oldest  altar-table  at  the  end  of  the  nave  four 
steps  ascended  to  the  choir-recess,  where  remains  of  the  columns  of  the 
later  ciborium  altar  still  exist.  Two  small  doors  led  from  the  apse  into 
the  sacristies,  which  were  shut  otf  from  the  aisles.  The  diaconicon,  on 
the  left,  was  adjoined  by  the  quatrefoil-shaped  baptistery,  also  on  the 
left,  containing  fragments  of  the  old  font.  The  W.  portal  of  the  bap- 
tistery led  into  a  rectangular  hall. 

In  the  late  Byzantine  period  the  E.  half  of  the  nave  was  walled  off 
for  the  use  of  the  greatly  reduced  congregation,  while  the  old  aisles  and 
the  sacristies  were  converted  into  burial-places. 

A  few  paces  to  the  S.  of  the  bishop's  church,  above  part  of  the 
ancient  Roman  baths,  arc  relics  of  a  smaller  early-Christian  Bas- 
ilica, ending  in  a  trilateral  apse.  Outside  of  the  town  lay  the  E. 
burial-ground,  with  an  early -Christian  Chapel  of  similar  design. 

From  Tigzirt  we  may  climb,  1  hr.  to  the  N.  E..  through  underwood,  to 
the  Berber  village  of  Taksept,  on  the  crest  of  the  abrupt  Cape  Tedles 
(870  ft.).  Among  the  stone  huts  of  the  villagers  are  many  fragments  of 
Roman  buildings,  hardly  now  recognizable,  probably  the  ruins  of  lorn- 
nium,  whose  harbour  lay  on  the  E.  side  of  the  promontory.  On  the  high- 
est point  of  the  cape  stands  the  chief  landmark  of  this  part  of  the  coast, 
the  so-called  Phare  or  Mausolee  de  Taksept,  a  late- Roman  tomb,  still 
about  29  ft.  high,  with  an  octagonal  substructure  adorned  with  eight 
Corinthian  columns,  above  which  probably  once  rose  a  step-pyramid. 


39.  From  Tizi-Ouzou  via  Fort-National  to 
Maillot  or  Tazmalt. 

65  or  63'/2  M.  Road.  From  Tizi-Ouzou  to  Fort-National  17  M.  (dili- 
gence in  4  hrs.,  at  5  a.  m.  and  12.30  p.  m. ;  returning  at  8.45  and  1.15).  From 
Fort-National  to  Michelet  12'/2  M.  (diligence  in  2'/2  hrs.,  at  5.15  p.  m.,  re- 
turning 6  a.  m.).  From  Michelet  to  Maillot  35'/2  M.,  to  Tazmalt  34  M.  (no 
diligence).  Carriage  from  Hot.  Lagarde  at  Tizi-Ouzou  to  Fort-National 
25-45,  to  Michelet  (two  days)  50-75,  to  Maillot  or  Tazmalt  125-175  fr. ; 
cheaper  at  the  diligence  office  of  Aug.  Passicos  (p.  257),  who  will  send 
a  carriage  to  the  Tizi-Ouzou  station  if  ordered  by  letter  or  telegram.  Mules 
also  may  be  hired  at  Michelet  (on  Frid.  they  must  be  ordered  in  advance). 
The  Tirourda  Pass  is  seldom  fit  for  driving  before  the  end  of  April. 

Tizi-Ouzou,  see  p.  254.  The  Fort-National  Road  descends  to 
the  E.  into  the  valley  of  the  Sebaou,  where,  at  the  bridge  (259  ft.) 
across  its  affluent  Oueol  Aissi,  we  enjoy  a  splendid  *Vicw  of  the 
Jurjura  Mts.  (p.  258).  It  then  branches  off  to  the  S.  E.,  a  little 
before  the  village  of  Sikh  ou  Meddour,  from  the  Azazga  road  on 
the  left  bank  (p.  260),  and  begins  to  ascend  rapidly  to  the  long 


FORT-NATIONAL.  89.  Route.     257 

Massif  de  Fort -National,  the  most  important  branch  of  the 
*Massif  Kabyle,  which  extends  from  the  Sebaou  to  the  base  of 
the  Azerou-Tidjer  (p.  259). 

The  road  ascends  in  short  windings,  dangerous  for  motorists 
descending,  at  one  time  following  the  S.W.  slope  of  the  hill  above 
the  Oued  AYssi,  where  we  have  splendid  mountain  views,  at  another 
running  along  the  N.  E.  slope,  above  a  second  side-valley  of  the 
Sebaou.  On  every  side  we  see  countless  fig-trees,  the  favourite 
fruit-trees  of  the  natives.  We  pass  isolated  cottages  and  a  few 
small  Kabyle  villages  (Ade?ii,  Tamdzirt,  and  others),  where  the 
curious  may  obtain  access  to  one  or  other  of  the  poor  and  uninvit- 
ing huts.  Lastly,  the  road  ascends  by  a  long  bend  (cut  off  by  a 
mule-track)  to  the  N.  to  the  top  of  the  hill. 

17  M.  Fort-National.  —  Hotels  (comp.  p.  174).  Hotel  des  Touristes, 
H.  3,  d6j.  3,  D.  3'/),  fr.,  food  tolerable;  Hot.  Bellevue,  humble.  —  Carriages 
at  the  diligence-office,  kept  by  Aug.  Passicos.  —  Picture  post-cards  at 
Boussnge's,  photographer. 

Fort-National  (3035  ft.;  pop.  1000),  in  the  territory  of  the 
Beni  Eaten  or  Iraten  tribe,  was  built  in  1857,  to  overawe  the 
natives,  on  the  site  of  a  Kabyle  village,  and  is  now  the  capital  of 
the  Massif  Kabyle,  with  a  busy  Wednesday  market,  and  like  Mi- 
chelet  (p.  258),  is  a  favourite  centre  for  excursions.  It  consists  of 
little  more  than  a  single  main  street  between  the  two  town-gates. 
Several  shops  contain  Kabylian  pottery  and  wood-carvings.  The 
trinkets  sold  here  are  often  of  Moroccan  manufacture.  The  'ca- 
valier' or  high  bastion  of  the  Citadel  (3153  ft.;  adm.  only  by  leave 
of  the  commandant)  is  a  fine  point  of  view,  reached  from  the  N.W. 
town-gate  by  the  short  Rue  Marechal.  A  similar  distant  view  is  ob- 
tained by  walking  round  the  Town  Walls  on  the  N.  E.  side,  and 
also  from  the  Michelet  road  (p.  258). 

Excursions.  The  best  insight  into  the  character  of  the  people  and 
their  land  is  atforded  by  the  interesting,  but  rather  fatiguing  walk  or 
ride  through  the  Djema-a  Valley  to  Michelet  (5-6  hrs. ;  mule  4-6  f r. ; 
path  unfit  for  riding  at  places).  We  leave  the  road  a  few  hundred  paces 
outside  the  S.E.  gate  of  Fort-National,  pass  the  large  village  of  Taourirt- 
Amokran  (2124  ft.),  the  capital  of  the  Ait  Ousammeur  tribe,  a  place 
noted  for  its  quaint  old-fashioned  pottery,  and  then  descend  abruptly  to 
the  S.  to  the  (1  br.)  Djemda  Bridge  (about  1300  ft.).  On  the  left  bank 
of  the  brook  we  ascend  through  the  territory  of  the  Beni  Yermi,  well 
known  for  their  various  art -industries,  to  the  village  of  Ait  -  Larbda 
(2166  ft.;  mission-house  of  the  White  Fathers  in  the  vicinity;  p.  247),  and 
then  to  the  S.E.  to  (9'/2  M.)  Taourirt- Mimoun  (2435  ft.),  whose  white 
school-house  is  conspicuous  from  a  distance.  The  main  track  now  leads 
to  the  S.E.  on  the  crest  of  the  Beni  Yenni  Mts.  via.  Taourirt  el- Hadjadj 
(25118  ft.)  to  Tateaft  ou  Ghtemoun  (2545  ft.),  and  thence  down  steep  zigzags 
to  Soulc  el-Djentaa  (1477  ft.),  where  we  roach  the  steep  road  ascending  to 
Menguellet  (8350  ft.)  and  HOpital  Ste.  Eugenie  (p.  258).  Shorter,  but  often 
impassable  after  rain,  is  the  mule-track  from  Taourirt-Mimoun  to  the 
(*/«  hr.)  Djemda  Ford  (about  1395  ft.),  and  thence  through  a  side-valley  to 
(l'/4  hr.)  Menguellet. 

To  Boghni  (8-9  hrs. ;  mule  8-10  fr.),  a  pleasant  day's  excursion.  From 
Fort-National  we  first  follow,  to  the  S.W.,  the  fine  open  road  to  the  village 


258     Route  89.  MICHELET  From  Tizi-Ousou 

of  Ait-Ateili  (2648  ft.),  and  then  descend  via  Ait-Frah  (2126  ft.)  to  the 
Lowest  Djemda  Ford  (about  900  ft.).  Thence  we  follow  the  right  bank 
of  the  Oued  Aissi  (p.  256)  and  go  through  the  side-valley  of  the  Acif 
Djerra  to  Souk  el-Haad  (about  1300  ft.),  the  chief  market  of  the  Ouadhia. 
We  then  skirt  the  S.  slope  of  Jebel  Iril  ou  Moula,  crowned  with  the  vil- 
lage of  that  name,  and  reach  Ain-Sultan  (1313  ft.),  a  copious  spring  shaded 
by  huge  nettle-trees  (Celtis  australis  L.),  33/4  M.  from  Boghni  (p.  254). 

Good  climbers,  properly  equipped,  may  in  the  warmer  season  explore 
some  of  the  fine  passes  among  the  *Jurjura  or  Djurdjura  Mts.,  the 
Roman  Mons  Ferratus,  and  ascend  some  of  the  higher  peaks.  Provisions 
and  guides  necessary;  night-quarters  are  obtainable  at  the  school-houses. 
1.  To  Souk  el-Haad,  see  p.  257  and  above;  then  via,  Ait-Krelifa  (2230  ft.), 
along  the  W.  spurs  of  the  Chenacha  Mts.,  and  through  the  wild  valley  of 
the  Beni  Bou  Addou  to  the  Lac  de  Tizi-Koulmin,  one  of  the  few  moun- 
tain-lakes in  the  Atlas.  The  lake  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  pass  (5813  ft.)  of 
that  name,  which  separates  the  Rds  Tachgagalt  or  Pic  Ficheur  ("p.  254) 
from  the  Azerou-Ncennad  or  Pic  de  Galland  (7002  ft.),  the  westmost  peak 
of  Jebel  Akouker.  From  the  pass  we  descend  to  the  S.W.  through  re- 
mains of  a  fine  cedar-forest  to  Bou'ira  (p.  250).  — 2.  From  Fort-National  via 
Taourirt- Amok  ran  (p.  257)  to  A'it-Lahssen  (2851  ft.),  the  north-westmost 
village  of  the  Beni  Yenni  (j>.  257);  then  via  Souk  el-Arba  (1221  ft.),  a 
market-village  in  the  valley  or  the  Acif  el-Arba,  to  Ait-Touddeurt  (2271  ft.) 
and  Taguemoun  (3852  ft.),  on  the  S.  slope  of  Jebel  Kouriet  (5027  ft.),  one 
of  the  Chenacha  Mts.  (see  above);  thence  across  three  passes,  the  Vol  de 
Taguemoun  (3681  ft.),  the  Tizi  Guessig,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Azerou  es- 
Guessig,  one  of  the  Akouker  group,  and  the  Tizi  Boulma  (5532  ft.),  between 
the  Azerou-Ncennad  (see  above)  and  the  Rds  Timedouine  (7563  ft.),  the 
highest  peak  of  Jebel  Akouker;  thence  down  to  Bou'ira.  —  3.  Via  Souk 
el-Arba  (see  above)  to  the  village  of  Tiroual  (2664  ft.),  on  the  spurs  of 
the  Azerou  ou  Gov  gone  (7080  ft.)  and  Azerou  Thaltatt;  next  across  the 
Tizi  n-Assoual  (5683  ft.)  to  Ansor  el-Akhal  or  Ansor  Lekhal  (about  2950  ft.), 
and  through  the  valley  of  the  Oued  Beurd  to  El-Adjiba  (p.  251). 

The  Road  to  Miciielet  (29Vo  M. ;  diligence,  see  p.  256),  start- 
ing from  the  S.E.  gate  of  Fort-National,  leads  at  first  along  the 
S.W.  slope  of  the  Massif  de  Fort-National,  soon  affording  a  superb 
*View  of  the  Jurjura  Mts.,  from  Jebel  Ha'izer  (p.  254),  on  the  W., 
and  from  Jebel  Akouker  (see  above)  to  the  Lalla  Khedidja  (p.  259). 
To  the  right,  in  the.  valley,  lies  the  village  of  Taourirt-Amokran 
(p.  257);  opposite  us,  beyond  the  deep  ravine  of  the  Oued  Djemaa 
(see  p.  257),  rise  the  Beni  Yenni  Mts.  (p.  257). 

About  4'/2  M.  beyond  Fort-National  a  rough  road  diverges  to  the  left 
to  (20  min.)  the  small  hill-village  of  Icherridene  (3494  ft.)  and  the  Monu- 
ment d' Icherridene ,  erected  by  the  French  in  memory  of  the  decisive 
battles  of  1857  and  1871.  Near  the  pyramid  we  obtain  a  splendid  distant 
*View.     We  may  descend  to  the  highroad  on  the  other  side. 

For  a  short  distance  the  road  skirts  the  E.  margin  of  the  hills 
and  overlooks  the  hill-country  of  the  Ait  Yahia.  It  then  ascends  in 
windings,  passing  near  the  villages  of  Azerou- Kellat  and  Tasken- 
fout  on  the  right,  to  a  height  where  the  road  to  (20  min.)  Hopital 
Ste.  Euginie  and  Menguellet  (p.  257)  branches  off  to  the  right. 

29»/2  M.  Michelet  (3543  ft. ;  Hot.  des  Touristes  or  Calanchini, 
R.  3-3'/.2)  B.  1-172)  dej.  3,  D.  3^2  fr-,  clean  and  quite  good;  mule 
to  the  Tirourda  Pass  4-5,  to  Tazmalt  6  fr. ;  pop.  200,  chiefly  French), 
the  capital  of  the  Canton  du  Djurdjura,  one  of  the  most  thickly 


to  Taemalt.  LALLA  KHEDIDJA.  S9.  Route.     259 

peopled  districts  in  Algeria,  is  prettily  situated,  on  the  partly  vine- 
clad  S.W.  slope  of  the  hills,  with  fine  views  all  around. 

From  ('/a  br.)  the  crest  of  the  hill  (4042  ft.),  to  which  a  path  ascends 
to  the  left  from  the  Hotel  des  Touristes,  we  have  an  extensive  *Panorama 
of  the  neighbouring  Jurjura  Mts.,  among  which  the  Lalla  Khedidja  (see 
below)  stands  forth  grandly,  of  the  Massif  Kabyle,  the  depression  of  the 
Sebaou  Valley,  and  the  distant  coast  hills.  The  view  is  peculiarly  impress- 
ive in  the  early  morning,  when  the  snow-capped  Jurjura  and  the  green 
lower  hills  with  their  countless  Kabylian  villages  protrude  like  islands 
from  the  sea  of  mist  in  the  valleys. 

The  *Lalla  Khedidja  (7572  ft.),  the  highest  of  the  Jurjura'Mts., 
may  be  ascended  from  Michelet  by  one  of  two  different  routes.  One  route 
is  via  Souk  el-Djemda  (p.  257),  the  hill-villages  of  Ait-Saada  (3055  ft.) 
and  Darna  (3314  ft. ;  night-quarters),  and  the  passes  Tizi  Tirkabin  (4587  ft.) 
and  Tizi  n-Koti'ilal  (5178  ft.),  near  the  sources  of  the  Oued  el-Hammam. 
The  other  route  is  via  the  Tirourda  Pass  (p.  260),  the  village  of  A'it- 
Ouabane  (about  3380  ft.),  in  the  basin  between  the  offshoots  of  the  Azerou 
Tidjer  (see  below)  and  the  Azerou  Mad'ene  (6401  ft.),  and  across  the  Tizi 
n-Koul'lal,  where  the  mules  are  left  behind.  The  ascent  is,  however,  easier 
and  shorter  from  Maillot  (p.  251).  A  bridle-path  leads  thence  to  the 
(41/.,  hrs.)  village  of  Tala  Rana  (4508  ft.;  night-quarters).  Then  1  hr. 
through  cedar-forest  (see  p.  210),  and  lastly  an  ascent  on  foot,  over  loose 
stones,  in  2  hrs.  more  to  the  top,  where  three  ruinous  stone  huts  afford 
some  shelter.  The  imposing  view  embraces  the  whole  mountain  region 
of  Great  Kabylia,  the  main  ranges  of  Little  Kabylia  (p.  266),  the  Sahel 
valley  (p.  266),  the  Chaine  des  Biban  (p.  270),  and  the  extensive  Hauts- 
Plateaux  (p.  169).  Early  in  the  morning  in  clear  weather  we  may  descry, 
with  the  aid  of  a  telescope,  the  white  houses  of  Algiers,  while  the  sea 
is  visible  in  the  direction  of  Bougie.  In  the  height  of  summer,  on  seven 
Thursdays,  hundreds  of  the  neighbouring  Kabyles  make  this  ascent. 

Beyond  Michelet  begins  the  finest  part  of  the  road,  which  now 
rapidly  nears  the  Jurjura  range.  After  1/2  hr.  it  skirts  for  a  short 
time  the  E.  slope  of  the  range,  where  a  path  to  the  left  diverges  to 
the  village  of  Ait-Mellal ;  then,  returning  to  the  W.  slope,  it  passes 
close  below  the  villages  of  Tifferdout  (3927  ft.)  and  Tazerout 
(3884  ft.).  The  *View  is  particularly  grand  at  a  bend  near  the 
53rd  kilometre-stone  (33  M.),  whence  we  observe  a  road-mender's 
house  in  the  foreground,  at  the  foot  of  the  bare  Azerou  Tidjer 
(5745  ft.),  which  conceals  the  Lalla  Khedidja.  Opposite,  on  the 
hill  beyond  the  head  of  the  Oued  Djemaa  valley  (p.  257),  lie  the 
three  large  villages  of  the  Beni  Akbil. 

35  M.  Maison  Cantonni&re  (4111  ft.;  closed  in  winter).  The 
road  soon  crosses  (7  min.)  the  narrow  saddle  between  the  lower  hills 
and  the  Azerou  Tidjer,  and  is  then  carried  along  the  abrupt  E.  slope 
of  the  latter  by  means  of  numerous  embankments,  galleries,  and 
two  short  tunnels.  On  the  left  lies  the  deep-set  Tirourda  Valley, 
enlivened  by  herds  of  cattle  in  summer,  with  the  village  of  Tirourda 
(about  3870  ft.),  via  which  the  pass  may  sometimes  be  reached 
when  the  road  is  blocked  with  snow.  Behind  it  rise  the  four  bare 
peaks  of  Jebd  Tizibert  (5754  ft.)  and  the  pointed  cone  of  the 
Azerou  n-Tohor  (p.  260). 

The  road  at  length  pierces  the  E.  margin  of  the  Azerou  n-Ti- 


260     Route  89.  COL  DE  TIROURDA. 

rourda  (6437  ft.)  by  means  of  a  cutting  called  the  Porte  Civili 
after  its  engineer,  and  ascends  in  a  curve  to  the  pass. 

39]/2  M.  Col  de  Tirourda  (5775  ft.),  the  most  frequented  pass 
in  the  Jurjura,  where  we  have  a  striking  view  of  the  hills  of  the 
Sahel  valley,  the  Chaine  des  Babors  (p.  266),  and  Chaine  des  Biban 
(p.  270). 

Most  travellers  are  satisfied  with  the  ascent  of  the  slight  hill  on  the 
right  of  the  road.  The  view  is,  however,  much  more  extensive  from  the 
Azerou  n-Tiro/irda  (see  p.  259  and  above),  and  still  more  so  from  the  mara- 
bout on  the  Azerou  n-Tohor  (£181  ft.),  "Which  may  be  scaled  in  V2  hr.  from 
the  Piste  de  Cheliata,  the  road  to  the  Col  de  C'hellata  (4806  ft.;  p.  251). 

The  road  descends  from  the  pass  in  many  windings  into  the 
valley  of  the  Oued  Aghbalou,  called  Oued  Tixiriden  lower  down, 
and  beyond  the  (44'^  M.)  Maison  Cantonni&re  d'A'in-Zebda 
crosses  to  the  right  bank.  The  small  villages  of  Selloum  (about 
2630  ft.)  and  Tixiriden  (about  1970  ft.)  lie  a  little  to  the  right. 
Near  the  94th  kilometre-stone  (58'/2  M.)  we  reach  the  road  in  the 
valley,  above  the  left  bank  of  the  Sahel,  about  halfway  between 
(65  M.)  Maillot  and  (63'/2  M.)  Tazmalt  (p.  251).  The  direct  descent 
to  Tazmalt  by  the  bridle-path  is  preferable  to  the  long  drive  round 
bv  the  road. 


40.  From  Port-National  via  Azazga  to 
Bougie. 

77l/2  M.  Road.  From  Fort-National  to  Azazga  22  M.  (no  diligence);  from 
Azazga  to  Yakouren  7'/2  M.  (diligence  at  10.30  a.  m.,  in  l'/2hr.);  from 
Yakouren  via  Taourirt-Ighil  to  Bougie  about  48  M.  (no  conveyances).  Can. 
from  Hot.  Lagarde  (p.  254),  at  Tizi-Ouzou,  via  Fort-National  to  Bougie 
150-275  fr. ;  from  Tizi-Ouzou  to  the  Tirourda  Pass  (R.  39),  returning  via 
Fort-National  to  Bougie  175-300  fr.  —  Carr.  hired  from  Aug.  Passicos  (comp. 
p.  257)  and  those  also  in  the  opposite  direction,  from  Bougie  (p.  262), 
when  hired  to  Azazga  or  Fort-National  only  are  rather  cheaper. 

The  Azazga  road  between  Fort-National  and  the  Sebaou  Valley  is 
hardly  less  attractive,  especially  in  the  reverse  direction,  than  that  be- 
tween Tizi-Ouzou  and  Fort-National,  although  lacking  the  mountain  view. 
Between  Azazga  and  Bougie  our  route  leads  partly  through  the  forests  of 
the  Algerian  Tell  Atlas  (cork-trees,  evergreen  oaks,  etc.),  now  sadly  thinned. 

Fort-National,  see  p.  257.  The  Azazga  Road  branches  to 
the  left  from  the  Michelet  road  (R.  39)  a  few  hundred  yards  from 
the  S.E.  gate  of  the  town,  and  leads  through  vineyards  into  the 
picturesque  valley  of  the  Oued  Bou  Aimeur,  the  deep  incision 
between  the  hills  inhabited  by  the  Oumalou,  on  the  E.,  and  the 
A'it-  Akerrna  Mts.  on  the  W.,  on  the  crest  of  which  stand  a  series 
of  fi  e  villages.  Behind  us  is  a  fine  view  of  Fort-National,  which 
remains  iu  sight  as  far  as  (6'/4  M.)  Fontaine- Fraiche. 

The  road  now  runs  on  the  E.  slope  of  the  hill,  through  fig- 
gardens  and  olive-groves,  soon  in  full  view  of  the  beautiful  wooded 


TAOURIRT-IGHIL.  *o.  Route.     261 

valley  of  the  Oued  Rabta  to  the  right,  and  descends  in  short 
windings  to  the  saddle  between  the  Ounialou  hills  and  the  Takor- 
rabt  Bou  Achbatzene  (981  ft.),  crowned  with  a  saint's  tomb.  Sweep- 
ing round  to  the  W.  our  road  next  enters  the  featureless  Sebaou 
Valley  (p.  254),  where  it  joins  that  on  the  left  bank  coming  from 
Tizi-Ouzou.   A  branch  to  Mekla  diverges  l/a  M.  farther  on. 

About  5'/2  M.  farther  we  cross  the  Sebaou  and  then  pass  through 
a  eucalyptus  avenue  to  the  Tizi-Ouzou  and  Azazga  road  on  the  right 
bank,  where  we  ascend  rapidly  through  underwood  and  fields  to  — 

22  M.  Azazga  (1418  ft.;  Hot.  Gebhardt,  R.  3,  B.  l'/2,  dei.  or 
D.  3  fr. ;  Hot.  Vayssieres,  plainer,  good  cuisine;  pop.  largely  Alsa- 
tian), a  large  village  on  the  N.W.  spurs  of  the  wooded  Jebel  Bou 
Hini  (3327  ft.). 

The  road  ascends,  soon  affording  a  pleasant  view  as  we  look 
back  to  the  Sebaou  plain,  through  beautiful  woods  in  the  territory 
of  the  Beni  Ghobri,  to  the  saddle  between  Jebel  Bou  Hini  on  the 
right  and  Jebel  Zraib  (3061  ft.)  on  the  left. 

29'/2  M.  Yakouren  (about  2460  ft.;  tavern),  a  small  French 
settlement,  near  the  Kabyle  village  of  that  name.  As  we  ascend  to 
the  (35  M.)  Col  de  Tagma  (3094  ft.)  we  look  back  for  the  last  time 
to  a  great  part  of  the  Massif  Kabyle  (p.  257)  and  the  Jurjura  Mts. 
Beyond  the  pass  we  enter  the  Province  of  Constantine  and  descend 
through  oak-forest  and  underwood,  and  then  through  fields  and 
orchards,  skirting  for  many  miles  the  N.  slope  of  the  hills  of  the 
Foret  de  Tizi  Ou fellah  (4285  ft.).  The  road  runs  high  above  the 
valley  of  the  Oued  el-Hammam,  where  many  Kabylian  villages 
are  perched  on  hills  or  ensconced  among  rocks.  These  and  the 
small  baths  of  Acif  el-Hammam  lie  on  the  left. 

Passing  at  some  distance  from  the  Foret  d'M-fadou,  the  most 
famous  of  the  oak-forests  of  Great  Kabylia,  the  road  next  skirts 
the  N.  slope  of  Jebel  Toukra  (4806  ft.).  Then,  affording  a  distant 
view  of  the  fine  hill-region  of  the  Oued  Dahs  to  the  left,  it  passes 
close  to  the  large  village  of  ICBouch  on  a  hill  and  approaches  the 
neglected  oak-woods  of  the  Foret  de  Taourirt-hjhil. 

50'/2  M.  Chalet  de  Taourirt-Ighil  (about  2950  ft.:  rustic  but 
good,  R.  2,  dej.  3-4  fr.),  a  resort  of  sportsmen. 

Beyond  the  hamlet  of  Taourirt-Ighil  the  old  road  descends  to  the  S.E., 
in  wide  curves,  overlooking  ou  the  right  the  vallev  of  the  Fena'ia  and 
the  hills  of  the  Sahel  Valley  (p.  206),  to  the  (54  M.)  Col  de  Talmete  (2703  ft. ; 
road-mender's  house).  A  little  helow  the  pass  we  survey  the  upper  val- 
ley of  the  Oued  el-Kseitr  (p.  262).  In  the  distance  rises  Jebel  Arbalou 
(p.  262).  Besides  oak-forest  we  pass  also  through  beautiful  underwood, 
where  the  fragrant  erica  abounds,  vying  in  spring  with  the  macchia  of 
Corsica. 

Next  to  the  forest-zone  comes  the  fertile  hill-region  above  the  Sahel 
valley,  beyond  which  are  seen  the  mountains  of  Little  Kabylia  (p.  266). 
Passiug  several  Kabylian  villages,  the  road  descends  in  many  windings 
to  (6-1 '/,  M.)  the  village  of  El-Kseur  (295  ft.;  Hot.  de  l'Union,  rustic). 

65  M.  El-Kseur-Amizour,   and   thence  to  (80  M.)    Bougie,   soe  p.  252. 


262     Route  41.  BOUGIE. 

The  new  Bougie  road  reaches,  on  the  S.  slope  of  Jebel  ou 
Chiouen  (3289  ft.),  the  upper  valley  of  the  Oued  el-Kseur,  a  dull, 
uninhabited  forest  region,  and  then  nears  the  S.  base  of  the  bare 
Jebel  Arbalou. 

Farther  on,  in  the  vale  of  the  Oued  Rhir ,  we  cross  the  La 
Reunion  and  Toudja  road  (p.  252). 

Toudja  (650-1000  ft.)  is  a  group  of  Kabylian  villages  in  the  abund- 
antly watered  upper  valley  of  the  Oued  Rhir  and  on  the  S.E.  slope  of 
Jebel  Toudja  (1998  ft.),  the  E.  spur  of  Jebel  Arbalou  (4291  ft.),  the  latter 
of  which  may  be  scaled  in  3-3!/2  hrs.  Toudja  is  famed  for  its  oranges.  The 
modern  Bougie,  like  the  ancient  Saldse  (p.  263),  is  supplied  with  water 
from  the  springs  of  Toudja.  The  Roman  Aqueduct  was  13  M.  long;  re- 
mains of  its  pillars  are  still  to  be  seen  on  the  Col  d'JSl-Handiat  (about 
1475  ft.),  1/2  hr-  to  the  N.E.  of  Toudja. 

Lastly  we  descend  into  the  vale  of  the  Oued  Srir  (p.  252)  and 
reach  (77'/2  M.)  Bougie  (see  below). 


41.   Bougie. 

Railway  Station  (PI.  B,  3),  in  the  plain,  to  the  W.  of  the  old  town, 
not  far  from  the  Kasba  hill. 

Arrival  by  Sea.  The  steamers  of  the  Comp.  Generale  Transat- 
lantique  (RR.  20,  22;  office  on  the  quay)  anchor  close  to  the  Jetfie  Abd 
el-Kader  (PI.  D,  3).  Landing  or  embarkation  30,  trunk  30-60  c. ;  small 
articles  free. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  174).  Hot.  de  France  &  Royal  (PI.  a;  C,  2),  Chemin 
de  l'Hopital,  quiet,  R.  4-6,  B.  iy„,  dej.  3>/2,  D.  4,  pens.  12-14,  omn.  1  fr.— 
Hot.  d' Orient  (PI.  b;  C,  2),  R.  3*6,  B.  1,  dej.  3,  D.  3V2,  pens.  IOV2-131/2, 
omn.  1/2  fr-j  Hot.  des  Voyageurs  (PI.  c;  C,  2),  poor;  these  two  in  Rue 
Trezel,  with  splendid  view. 

Cape.     Richelieu,  with  terrace,  Rue  Trezel. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  3;  B,  3),  Place  Gueydon,  corner  of 
Rue  Trezel. — Banks.  Banque  de  VAlgerie,  next  to  the  post-office;  Comp. 
Algerienne,  etc. 

Carriages  let  out  by  Spiteri,  Pacce,  and  Ali  ben  Abdelkrim  Freres. 
Arrangements  should  be  made  personally  with  these  or  the  drivers. — 
Motor  Cars  let  out  by  Vogelweith,  Rue  Jeanne  d'Arc. — Motor  Omni- 
bus, Messageries  Automobiles  Djidjelliennes.  —  Diligence  Offices,  Place 
Q-ueydon  and  Rue  Trezel. 

Sea  Baths  in  the  bay  of  Sidi  Yahia  (p.  264). 

One  Day  (when  time  is  limited).  In  the  morning,  visit  to  Cape  Car- 
bon (p.  264);  in  the  afternoon,  walk  rouud  the  town  and  the  bay  of  Sidi 
Yahia.    Photographing  and  sketching  in  or  around  Bougie  are  prohibited 

The  quiet  seaport-town  of  Bougie  (pop.  11,000,  of  whom  6000 
are  Mohammedans  and  600  Jews),  defended  by  several  forts,  rises 
in  terraces  on  the  W.  shore  of  the  bay  of  that  name,  at  the  S.  base 
of  the  steep  Jebel  Gouraya  (p.  265).  The  Anse  de  Bougie  or 
d'Abd  el-Kader,  a  small  bay  between  two  headlands,  the  Kasba 
Hill  to  the  W.  and  the  Bridja  Hill  to  the  E.,  forms  the  harbour. 
The  so-called  Darsenda  (see  p.  90),  the  ancient  Roman  and  Moorish 
harbour  adjoining  the  plain  to  the  W.  of  the  Kasba  Hill,  and  near 
the  industrial  suburb  close  to  the  station,  is  now  choked  with  the 
deposits  of  the  Oued  Sahel  (p.  251).    The  upper  part  of  the  Kasba 


Gra.'r   <*t   invpviiiL*   lur  vr.nni  r.-.-Iicbrs    Iripiiv 


Harbour  BOUGIE.  *1-  Route.     263 

Hill  to  the  N.,  above  the  new  French  quarters,  is  the  Ville  Indigent 
or  Kabylian  quarter  (PI.  A,  B,  1,  2),  whose  red-tiled  stone  huts 
resemble  those  of  the  villages  of  Great  Kabylia  (p.  252).  A  second 
native  quarter,  the  Faubourg  des  Cinq- Fontaines  (PI.  B,  0,1), 
lies  in  the  upper  part  of  the  valley,  between  the  two  hills. 

The  environs  of  Bougie,  owing  to  the  copious  winter  rainfall 
(p.  170),  are  remarkable  for  their  luxuriant  vegetation  and  their 
splendid  timber.  The  town  is  most  beautiful  in  spring,  when  the 
gardens  don  their  freshest  verdure  and  the  terraces  and  slopes  are 
gorgeously  carpeted  with  bougainvilleas.  In  winter  the  blue  bay 
contrasts  most  picturesquely  with  the  snow-clad  mountains  of  Little 
Kabylia  (p.  266). 

Under  the  Carthaginians  Bougie,  like  Igilgili  (Djidjelli),  was  probably 
one  of  the  chief  seaports  on  this  part  of  the  coast,  but  its  Punic  name 
is  unknown.  In  the  Roman  period,  under  the  name  of  Saldae,  it  was 
the  principal  town  on  the  bay.  Its  present  name  (Ital.  and  Span.  Bugia) 
is  derived  from  the  Berber  tribe  of  the  Beja'ia  or  Bitja'ia,  who  settled 
in  the  vicinity  in  the  luth  century.  The  town  attained  its  brief  prime  in 
the  middle  ages,  and  was  one  of  the  most  flourishing  of  the  minor  Moorish 
principalities  when  under  the  sway  of  the  Hammadites  (1090-1152),  fugi- 
tives from  KaLia  des  Beni-Hammad  (p.  270).  The  Pisans,  the  Genoese, 
and  the  Venetians  had  their  factories  here.  Wax  being  the  chief  export, 
the  French  still  call  their  wax-candles  bougies  (originally,  in  Ital.,  can- 
dele  di  Bugia).  From  the  15th  cent,  down  to  the  French  occupation,  save 
during  the  Spanish  period  (1510-55),  when  it  afforded  an  asylum  to  Emp. 
Charles  V.  on  his  retreat  from  Algeria  (1541;  comp.  p.  221),  it  was  a 
notorious  haunt  of  the  barbaresque  pirates.  The  recent  improvement  of 
the  harbour  is  expected  to  revive  the  ancient  prosperity  of  the  place. 

The  finest  mediaeval  building  in  the  town  is  the  dilapidated 
Porte  Sarrasine  (PLC,  2;  Arabic  Bdb  el-Bahar,  sea-gate), 
probably  a  relic  of  the  town-walls  erected  by  the  governor  En- 
Nasr,  in  1067,  extending  along  the  top  of  the  two  headlands,  up 
to  the  Plateau  des  Ruines  (p.  265). 

Since  the  16th  cent,  the  bay  has  been  commanded  by  the  Kasha 
(PI.  B,  3),  a  fortification  of  the  Spanish  period,  and  the  ruinous 
(originally  Turkish?)  Fort  Ahd  el-Kader  (PI.  D,  2,  3)  on  the  rocky 
summit  of  the  Bridja  Hill.    Both  are  now  barracks  (no  adm.). 

The  Harbour,  exposed  to  the  infrequent  N.  and  N.E.  winds 
only,  one  of  the  'least  bad'  in  Algeria,  and  now  65  acres  in  area, 
was  improved  in  1905-9  by  the  extension  of  the  Jetee  Ahd  el- 
Kader  (Pl.D,  3;  a  fine  point  of  view),  by  the  formation  of  a  quay 
at  the  Pointe  de  la  Kasba,  and  by  the  construction  of  the  Jetee  du 
Large,  an  outer  breakwater,  525  yds.  long. 

The  town  is  entered  from  the  harbour  either  by  the  Boul.  des 
Cinq-Fontaines  (PI.  C,  2,  1)  or  by  the  Rue  de  la  Marine  (PI.  C,  2) 
and  Rue  Duvivier,  all  ascending  to  the  Rue  Trezel.  From  the 
railway-station  we  ascend  to  the  Place  de  l'Arsenal  by  the  Rampe 
of  that  name  (PI.  A,  B,  2). 

The  Rue  Tkezkl  (Pl.B,  C,  2),  which  ascends  to  the  S.W.  from 
the  lower  ground  to  the  Kasba  Hill,  is  the  ouly  fairly  animated  street 

Baedekjck's  Mediterranean  17 


264     Route  41.  BOUGIE.  CaPe  Carbon. 

in  the  town.  On  the  left  is  the  Hotel  de  Ville  (PI.  2;  C,  2),  which 
contains  a  few  antiquities,  including  a  Roman  mosaic  (Oceanus  and 
the  Nereids)  found  near  the  hospital.  The  Fountain  in  front  of  the 
H6tel  de  Ville  has  a  hexagonal  column  with  a  Roman  inscription 
in  three  parts  recording  the  building  of  the  aqueduct  (p.  262). 

The  Place  Gueydon  (Pl.B,  2,  3),  the  focus  of  traffic,  named 
after  Admiral  Gueydon  (governor  of  Algeria,  1870-3),  and  adorned 
with  a  Monument  (a  genius  in  bronze),  affords  a  splendid  *View 
of  the  bay  from  the  parapet. 

From  the  Rue  Trezel  we  cross  the  Place  de  l'Arsenal  (PI.  B,  2) 
and  ascend  the  Rue  Fatima  to  the  booths  of  the  Kabylian  Market 
and  to  the  Kabylian  quarter,  the  chief  boast  of  which  is  the  pretty 
Mosque  (PI.  A,  B,  2),  completed  in  1902.  Close  by  is  the  Porte 
Fouka  (PI.  A,  2),  the  substructions  of  which  are  ancient. 

Fort  Barral  (Pl.B,  2;  formerly  Fort  Moussa),  to  the  E.  of 
the  Rue  du  Gouraya  (p.  265),  dates  from  the  Spanish  period.  Behind 
the  Hopital  Civil  are  the  Citernes  Romaines  (Pl.B,  1;  509ft.), 
which  have  been  frequently  altered.  These  and  a  few  fragments 
of  the  Roman  Town  Walls  are  the  sole  memorials  of  antiquity. 

The  Rampc  des  Spahis  (PI.  B,  2,  1)  descends  to  the  Cinq-Fon- 
taines (PLC,  1),  a  Mauro-Turkish  fountain  in  the  valley,  whence 
the  Chemin  de  Bridja  leads  to  the  Porte  du  CimctUre  (PLC,  1), 
the  town-gate  on  the  Bridja  Hill. 

A  charming  walk  is  afforded  by  the  road  from  the  gate  just 
named,  passing  the  Jewish  Burial  Ground  (PL  D,  1),  and  descend- 
ing in  windings  through  olive  and  carob  groves  and  ruins  of  old 
fortifications,  to  the  beautiful  Anse  de  Sidi-Yahia.  Thence,  at 
the  lime-kiln  and  cement-works,  we  may  either  turn  to  the  right 
and  go  through  the  tunnel  nnder  Fort  Abd  el-Kader  (p.  263)  back 
to  the  harbour,  or  we  may  follow  the  coast-road  (p.  265)  leading 
to  the  E.  to  the  bay  of  Les  Aiguades. 


The  *Excursion  to  Cape  Carbon  (there  and  back  3'/2-4  hrs.) 
is  best  made  on  foot  or  by  mule  (3  fr.,  attendant  1  fr.).  We  leave 
the  town  by  the  Porte  du  Cimetiere  and  follow  the  rough  road  to 
the  N.  E.,  passing  (on  the  left)  the  Catholic  Cemetery  (PL  C,  D,  1), 
and  ascending  amidst  rich  vegetation  on  the  E.  slope  of  Jebel 
Gouraya  (p.  265). 

Passing  the  pleasant  path  which  diverges  to  the  Petit  Phare 
(482  ft.)on  Cape  Bouak,  we  soon  reach  the  Vallde  des  Singes, 
whence  we  look  down  on  the  peaceful  Anse  des  Aiguades  (p.  265), 
and  the  (1  hr.)  Pic  des  Singes,  on  whose  steep  rocky  slopes  we 
may  often  see  monkeys  disporting  themselves  (comp.  p.  171).  Just 
beyond  the  short  rock-tunnel,  where  the  road  ends,  we  obtain  a 
superb  **View  of  Cape  Carbon  (722  ft.),  whose  limestone  preci- 


Jebel  Gouraya.  BOUGIE.  41-  Route.     265 

pices,  descending  sheer  on  every  side,  are  crowned  with  a  sema- 
phore and  the  old  lighthouse.  We  cross  the  low  saddle  between 
the  Anse  des  Salines  (see  below)  on  the  left  and  the  bay  bounded 
by  Cape  Carbon  and  the  Cape  Noir  (p.  130)  on  the  right,  and  ascend 
past  the  Old  Lighthouse  to  the  (20  min.)  *  Semaphore,  from  whose 
Hat  roof  we  have  a  splendid  survey  of  the  bay  and  of  the  bold  coast 
of  Great  Kabylia  as  far  as  the  Tie  Pisan  (p.  130). 

From  the  saddle  just  mentioned  a  path  descends  to  the  Neio 
Lighthouse  at  the  foot  of  Cape  Carbon. 

The  beautiful  new  *Coast  Road  leads  round  tho  Anse  de  Sidi-Yahia 
(p.  264),  passing  the  marabout  of  that  name  and  the  large  quarries  and 
skirting  the  abrupt  slopes  of  Cape  Bouak  (p.  264).  It  pierces  the  point  of 
the  cape  by  means  of  a  short  tunnel,  and  ends,  beyond  the  old  pumping- 
works,  at  the  *Anse  des  Aiguades.  Its  extension  to  the  new  light- 
house at  Cape  Carbon  is  projected.  —  When  the  sea  is  calm  we  may  row 
from  the  harbour  of  Bougie  (4-5  fr. ;  bargain  necessary),  past  Cape  Bouak 
and  through  the  Roche  Perce" e  at  Cape  Carbon,  to  the  Anse  and  the  Point e 
des  Salines,  with  the  Grotte  Ste.  Anne.  On  the  return  we  may  for 
variety  land  in  the  Anse  des  Aiguades  and  walk  back  to  Bougie  by  the 
coast-road. 

The  ascent  of  Jebel  Gouraya  (2166  ft.)  takes  2-2'/2  lire,  on 
foot  or  l3/4  hr.  by  mule  (3  fr.,  and  fee  of  1  fr.).  We  first  follow 
the  Rue  dn  Gouraya  and  Chemin  du  Gouraya,  or  else  a  road  on  the 
Bridja  Hill  above  the  Faubourg  des  Cinq-Fontaines,  to  the  Porte 
dn  Grand  Ravin  (PI.  B,  1).  A  steep  road  ascends  thence  in  wind- 
ings, throngh  underwood,  to  the  Plateau  des  Ruines,  where  there 
is  a  Penitencier  for  military  convicts.  Hence  a  path  leads  in 
'/2  hr.  to  the  small  Fort  du  Gouraya,  within  which  is  the  shrine 
of  Lalla  Gouraya.  We  then  ascend  to  the  right,  round  the  fort, 
to  the  cairn  on  the  W.  peak,  where  we  are  rewarded  with  a  charm- 
ing view  of  the  bay,  the  lower  Sahel  valley,  the  coast  of  Great 
Kabylia  as  far  as  Cape  Sigli  (p.  130),  and  Jebel  Arbalou  (p.  262). 

Excursion  to  Toudja  (carr.  20-30  fr.),  and  drive  virl  Taourirt-Ighil  to 
Azasga  (and  Fort-National),  see  pp.  262,  261. 


42.  From  Bougie  through  the  Chabet  el- 
Akra  to  Setif. 

72  M.  Road.  Motor-omnibus  (p.  262)  from  Bougie  at  0  a.  m.,  in  71/,. 
hrs.  (to  Kerrata,  dejeuner  station,  in  43/4hrs.);  from  Setif  at  7  a.  m.,  in 
6>/2  hrs. ;  fare  25  fr.  20  or  12  fr.  20  c.  (to  Kerrata  11  or  4  fr.);  luggage  at 
the  rate  of  10  fr.  per  100  kilos  (220  lbs.)  for  every  100  kilometres  (62  M.). 
Also  a  diligence  to  Kerrata,  both  from  Bougie  and  from  Setif:  from 
Bougie  at  3.30  a.  m.,  in  7'/._,  hrs.,  from  Setif,  at  5  a.  m.,  in  6  hrs.  (allow- 
ing an  hour  for  lunch  at  Kerrata,  11-12);  fare  for  the  whole  journey 
15  fr.  (interieur  8  fr.).  Those  who  do  not  care  for  the  unattractive  drive 
from  Kerrata  to  Setif,  where  there  is  direct  correspondence  in  tht- 
direction  of  Constantine  and  Biskra  only,  or  who  are  bound  for  Djidjelli. 
will  return  at  once  from  Kerrata  to  Bougie.  —  Private  carr.  from  one  ol 
the  hirers  at  Bougie  (p.  262)  to  Setif  about  100-140  fr.  (or  to  Kerrata  and 
back  50-60  fr.).     Motor-car  at  Vogelweith'a  (p.  202)  '/a  fr.  per  kilometre 

17* 


266     Route  42.  OUED  MARSA.  from  Bougie 

Carr.  from  Setif  to  Bougie  120,  half-open  (calaffe)  100  fr. ;  it  is  possible 
to  drive  all  the  way  in  one  day,  but  in  the  reverse  direction  (Bougie 
to  Setif)  it  is  best  to  spend  a  night  at  Oued-Marsa  or  Kerrata. 

The  road  skirts  the  gulf  of  Bougie  (p.  130)  all  the  way  to  the  deep 
depression  of  the  Agrioun  Valley.  Between  Bougie  and  Kerrata  it  passes 
through  the  finest  scenery  of  Little  Kabylia  or  Petite  Kabylie,  a  wooded 
hill-region,  thinly  peopled  by  Berber  tribes.  The  Chaine  des  Babors,  the 
higher  mountains,  unlike  those  of  the  Jurjura  (p.  258),  rise  but  little  over 
the  intermediate  hills.  The  Chabet  el-Alcra  is  the  grandest  mountain- 
defile  in  Algeria. 

Bougie,  see  p.  262.  The  Road  leads  through  the  suburb  at 
the  station  and  then  to  the  S.W  across  the  plain  of  the  Oued  Srir 
(p.  252). 

Passing  through  the  featureless  plain  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Oued  Sahel  (p.  251),  we  obtain  retrospects,  growing  finer  as  we 
advance,  of  Bougie  and  Cape  Bouak  and  then  of  Cape  Noir  and 
Cape  Carbon  also.  We  soon  reach  the  vine-clad  coast-plain  on  the 
verge  of  the  wooded  hills  of  Little  Kabylia,  where  the  cork-oak 
abounds,  and  for  a  time  turn  away  from  the  sea. 

Halfway  between  Bougie  and  Cape  Aokas  the  coast-plain  nar- 
rows. High  above  the  rocky  shore  the  road  mounts  a  spur  of  the 
Beni  Mimoun  Djoua  Mts.,  and  then  the  (lO1^  M.)  Pointe  Tichi, 
an  offshoot  of  the  Beni  Amrous  hills,  beyond  which  it  descends,  in 
view  of  the  picturesque  Cape  Aokas  and  the  coast  as  far  as  Cape 
Cavallo  (p.  267),  into  the  vine-clad  valley  of  the  Oued  Djemda. 
At  the  (12l/2  M.)  bridge  over  the  stony  bed  of  the  stream,  we  ob- 
serve up  the  valley  the  Beni  Slim ane  Mts.  (4160  ft.)  and  those 
of  Beni  Bou  Aissi,  with  the  lofty  Jebel  Imoidentaour  (5715  ft.). 

Beyond  the  Djemaa  valley  begins  one  of  the  finest  parts  of  the 
coast.  The  hills  again  come  down  close  to  the  shore.  The  road 
passes  the  handsome  Villa  Poizat,  with  its  great  wine-cellars,  and 
crosses  the  wild  Oued  Zitoun.  On  the  slope  above  the  torrent  is 
a  pretty  farm-dwelling,  nestling  among  eucalypti,  bananas,  and 
bamboos.  We  next  round  the  Cone  d' Aokas  (1519  ft.),  precipitous 
all  round,  and  come  to  a  bend  in  the  road  at  (15  M.)  Cape  Aokas, 
where  we  have  a  beautiful  *Vie\v  of  the  whole  bay. 

Just  before  the  village  of  Oued-Marsa ,  6  min.  beyond  the 
cape,  is  the  prettily  situated  little  Hot.  du  Cap  Aokas  (R.  272-3, 
B.  1,  dej.  or  D.  3y2fr.,  quite  good).  The  road  now  enters  the  broad 
coast-plain  between  the  Oued  Marsa  and  the  Oued  Agrioun,  lately 
brought  under  cultivation,  overlooked  by  the  Beni  Hassain  Mts. 
(4567  ft.),  and  still  showing  a  few  vestiges  of  the  primaeval  Foret 
d'Acherit,  a  swampy  region  notorious  for  malaria. 

We  cross  the  Oued  Sidi  Rehane  and  pass  the  village  of  that 
name,  with  its  kubba  shaded  by  venerable  trees.  A  double  tunnel 
under  the  bed  of  the  torrential  Oued  Sidi  Resgoun  next  brings  us 
to  the  broad  mouth  of  the  Oued  Agrioun. 

22  M.  Souk  et-Tenine  (Hot.  des  Voyageurs,  dej.  l^fr.,  poor), 


to  Sttif.  DJIDJELLI.  M.  Route.     267 

the  Monday  market  of  the  Beni  Hassain,  lies  on  a  low  hill  at  the 
entrance  to  the  Agrioun  valley.  The  road  ascends  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  valley,  flanked  with  cork-trees  and  beautiful  underwood. 

The  road  to  Djidjelli  diverges  at  the  36th  kilometre-stone 
(22'/2  M.)  to  the  left  from  the  Setif  road. 

The  beautiful  Djidjelli  Road  (from  Bougie  60  M. ;  motor-omnibus 
daily,  fare  14  fr.  30  or  10  fr.  30  c. ;  diligence  daily  at  5  a.  m.,  in  the  reverse 
direction  at  4  a.m.,  in  12  hrs.,  fare  10  or  7  fr. ;  provisions  should  be  taken 
for  the  journey)  continues  to  skirt  the  bay  of  Bougie,  passing  at  places 
through  line  old  forest  of  cork-trees,  pines,  etc.,  thickly  overgrown  with 
creepers.  It  crosses  the  Oued  Agrioun  beyond  the  36th  kilometre-stone 
and  the  Oued  Boulzazene,  and  then  returns,  to  the  N.E.,  to  the  coast. 

Near  the  42nd  kilometre-stone  (26  M.)  begin  the  *Grandes  Falaises,  a 
series  of  bold  clilfs,  extending  along  the  coast  for  l'/4  M.,  through  which 
the  road  is  tunnelled  at  places.  Fine  view  of  the  bay  behind  us,  as  far 
as  Jebel  Oouraya.  We  next  skirt  two  secluded  bays,  separated  by  Jebel 
Afoerer  (473  ft.),  pass  the  Pointe  Ziama  (450  ft.),  and  cross  the  Oued 
Ziama. 

32  M.  Ziama  consists  of  a  group  of  settlers'  dwellings  near  the 
site  of  Choba,  a  Roman  seaport,  where  there  are  still  considerable  remains 
of  the  Roman  town-walls,  of  baths  dating  from  196  A.  D.,  and  of  the 
Byzantine  ramparts. 

Beyond  the  cliffs  of  Pointe  Mansouria  (hotel),  off  which  rises  the  rocky 
islet  of  that  name,  we  come  to  (37V2M.)  the  mouth  of  the  Oued  Guelil 
or  Dar  el- Oued,  near  the  stalactite  Grottes  de  Mansouria  or  de  Dar  el- 
Oued,  discovered  in  1901.  The  chief  grotto,  165  yds.  long  and  16  ft.  high, 
is  lighted  with  acetylene  (acini.  1  fr.). 

Passing  several  caverns  on  the  coast,  we  next  skirt  the  small  Anse  de 
Taza,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oued  Taza,  which,  farther  up,  has  carved  out 
a  grand  defile  through  the  S.  margin  of  Jebel  Taounnart  (2546  ft.).  Partly 
through  cuttings  and  tunnels,  the  road  now  leads  to  (47'/a  M.)  the  village 
of  Cavallo,  near  Cape  Cavallo  (p.  130),  the  E.  limit  of  the  bay  of  Bougie. 
Near  it  are  large  granite-quarries. 

Off  the  rocky  coast  lie  on  the  left  the  islets  of  Grand  and  Petit 
Cavallo  (p.  131).  50'/2  M.  Montaigne  or  Agadie  is  the  only  European 
settlement  on  this  part  of  the  coast.  A  little  beyond  the  Oued  Kissir  a 
road  diverges  to  the  left  to  the  lighthouse  on  the  Eds  Afla  (p.  131).  Our 
road  skirts  the  wooded  flanks  of  Jebel  Mes  Ritan  or  Mezritane  (1294  ft.), 
and  at  the  Anse  el-Kalda  sweeps  round  to  the  S.,  inland.  Lastly,  passing 
the  small  Anse  des  Beni-Ca'id  (see  below),  it  reaches  the  Porte  de  Bougie, 
the  W.  gate  of  — 

60  M.  Djidjelli  (Cafe"  de  France,  R.  2  fr.,  dej.  or  D.  2  fr.,  quite  good; 
pop.  6400,  incl.  5000  Mohammedans),  a  poor  seaport,  consisting  mainly  or 
two  streets  planted  with  tine  plane-trees.  This  was  the  ancient  IgilgiU, 
once  an  important  mart  of  the  Carthaginians,  which  in  the  middle  ages 
long  retained  its  trade  as  the  seat  of  a  Genoese  factory,  but  after  its 
occupation  by  Floruk  Barbarossa  (p.  221)  became  a  mere  den  of  pirates. 
The  small  Harbour,  open  towards  the  E.,  and  inadequately  sheltered  on 
the  N.  ami  N.E.  sides,  admits  lighters  and  fishing-boats  only.  On  the 
adjacent  Crique  de  I'Ouest  rise  the  Citadel  and  the  Poudriere,  an  old 
fort.  At  the  Yigie,  the  clock-tower  on  the  neighbouring  aloe-clad  bill, 
wo  enjoy  a  charming  view  of  the  hill-region  around,  noted  in  spring  for 
its  gorgeous  wealth  of  flowers,  backed  by  Jebel  Sedderts  (3153  ft.)  to  the 
E.  and  by  the  inland  hills  of  Little  Kabylia.  To  the  W.  of  the  town, 
particularly  on  the  headland  between  the  Anse  des  Beni-Cal'd  and  the 
Anse  el-Kalaa  (see  above),  are  many  Punic  Ruck  Tombs,  now  empty. 

A  highroad  leads  from  Djidjelli  to  (42'/a  M.)  El-Milia,  (84</2  M.)  Collo 
(p.  131),  and  (95</a  M.)  Robcrtville  (p .  303;  motor-omnibus  in  10  hrs.,  fare 
25  fr.  SO  or  20  fr.  80  c);   another  via  (66  M.)  Mila  (Hot.  du  Commerce, 


268     Route  42.  CHABET  EL-AKRA.  From  Bougie 

R.  2fr.,  d6j.  or  D.  2fr.,  tolerable),  the  Roman  Mileum  (with  an  interesting, 
well-preserved  Byzantine  town-wall),  to  (102'/s  M.)  Constantine  (p.  297). 
—  Railway  via  El-Milia  and  Mila  to  Constantine  projected. 

The  S£tif  Road  ascends  gradually  to  the  S.,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  wooded  Agrionu  valley,  at  the  E.  base  of  the  hills  of  the 
Beni  Hassain  (p.  266).  On  the  opposite  bank,  on  the  slope  of  the 
linely  shaped  Jebel  Beni  Bou  Youssef  (3061  ft.),  runs  the  new- 
mineral  railway  of  Tadergount  (see  below).  25  M.  Aux  Deux- 
Fontaines  (about  410  ft.;  inn). 

The  road  ascends  more  steeply,  high  above  the  river-bed.  At 
a  bend  just  before  the  43rd  kilometre-stone  we  have  a  splendid 
survey  of  the  central  Agrioun  valley,  enclosed  in  a  semicircle  by 
the  lofty  and  barren  crests  of  the  Chaine  des  Babors.  The  road 
then  descends  to  the  S.W.  into  the  valley  again.  To  the  left  we 
look  into  the  lateral  valley  of  the  Oned  Tiraz,  with  the  iron-glance 
mines  of  Tadergount,  on  the  slope  of  Jebel  Beni  Felkai  (4452  ft.). 
Wild  oleanders  abound  in  the  bed  of  the  Agrioun.  On  the  wayside 
are  several  Kabylian  huts  with  orange  and  fig-gardens. 

Beyond  the  49th  kilometre-stone  we  see,  high  above  us,  on  the 
right,  Beni-Ismail  or  Small,  a  mission-house  of  the  White  Fathers 
(p.  247)  called  after  the  tribe  of  that  name,  placed  near  a  waterfall 
between  Jebel  Imoulentaour  (p.  266)  and  Jebel  Takoucht  (6221  ft.). 

Beyond  the  50th  kilometre-stone  (31  M.)  two  massive  pillars  of 
rock  mark  the  lower  end  (about  590  ft.)  of  the  **Chabet  el-Akra, 
the  grand  'ravine  of  death'  (4'/2M.  long),  between  the  bold  and  partly 
bush-clad  Jurassic  rocks  of  Jebel  Takoucht,  on  the  W.,  and  Jebel 
Adrar  Amellal  (5817  fl.)  and  KcfBandek,  on  theE.  An  inscription 
on  the  rock  to  the  right  records  the  construction  of  the  extremely 
costly  road  (1863-70).  Monkeys  (p.  171)  are  sometimes  seen  on 
the  hill-sides. 

Near  the  54th  kilometre-stone  (33^2  M.)  the  road  crosses  the 
stream,  which  dashes  over  huge  rocks  far  below  the  bridge,  whence 
we  have  a  fine  view  down  the  valley.  About  1/2  M.  farther  the  valley 
again  contracts  to  a  narrow  defile.  An  inscription  on  a  slab  of 
rock  in  the  bed  of  the  stream  recalls  the  first  march  of  French 
troops  through  the  gorge  (1864).  In  the  foreground  rises  a  great 
rocky  cone  called  the  *Pain  de  Sucre  (Arabic  Drd-Kalawi), 
apparently  closing  the  valley.  Passing  some  strange  rock-dis- 
locations, with  vertical  strata,  we  reach  (35:/2  M.)  the  upper  end  of 
the  gorge. 

37]/2  M.  Kerrata  (1575  ft.;  H6t.  du  Chabet,  R.,  dej.,  D.,  each 
21/2-4  fr.,  very  fair;  Hot.  de  Kerrata,  humble;  Tues.  market),  a 
village  of  the  Beni  Mera'i  tribe,  lies  in  a  bleak  hill-plain,  adjoining 
the  stony  S.  slope  of  the  Chaine  des  Babors. 

From  Kerrata  via  A'in-Abessa  to  SiStif,  34  M.,  pleasanter,  by  carr. 
or  cycle,  than  the  main  road  via  El-Ouricia,  particularly  in  the  reverse 
direction.    This  road  leaves  the  highroad  near  (33/4  M.)  the  mouth  of  the 


to  Sttif.  P^RIGOTYILLE.  «■  Route.     269 

Oued  Atteba,  one  of  the  sources  of  the  Agrioun,  ascends  its  valley,  and 
crosses  a  pass  to  (17 ' /a  M-)  A'in-Talaouart.  Here  to  the  right  diverges 
the  so-called  Route  ties  Caravanserails  to  the  little  town  of  AKn-Roua 
(3806  ft.),  at  the  foot  of  Jebel  Anini  (5248  ft.),  noted  for  its  mineral 
wealth,  and  to  the  sulphur-baths  of  Hammam- 0 uergour  or  Sidi  el-Djoudi, 
in  the  Massif  de  Ouergour,  which  were  already  known  to  the  Romans. 
From  A'in-Talaouart  our  road  turns  to  the  S.E.  and  ascends  past  the 
(20'/2M.)  village  of  Ain-Abessa  (3616  ft.;  Hot.  Copel)  to  the  saddle  (4019  ft.) 
between  Jebel  Megriss  (5700  ft.)  and  Jebel  Matrona  (4679  ft.).  Descending 
to  the  Oued  Bou.  Sellam  (p.  251)  the  road  here  rejoins,  a  littlo  before 
(80  M.)  Fermatuu  (see  below),  the  main  road  to  (34  M.)  Setif. 

The  highroad  ascends  out  of  the  Agrioun  valley,  soon  offering 
a  glimpse  of  Jebel  Babor  (6575  ft.)  on  the  left,  and  mounts  in 
windings,  to  the  S.E.,  through  a  once  wooded  hill-region  to  the 
(48  M.)  Tizi  N'Bechar  (2910  ft.),  l»/4  M.  below  the  large  Berber 
village  of  Takilount  (3448  ft.) ,  and  2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Am  el-Hamda, 
a  village  noted  for  its  mineral  water,  known  as  'eau  de  Takitount'. 
We  descend  from  the  pass  to  (52'/2  M.)  Amoucha  (Hot.  des  Voya- 
geurs,  dej.  3J/2  fr-)i  iQ  the  upper  valley  of  the  Agrioun. 

A  road  leads  to  the  S.  E.  from  Amoucha  to  (7'/2  M.)  Perigotville, 
the  chief  village  in  the  Canton  de  Takitount,  on  the  Oued  Ain-Kebira. 
It  lies  on  the  site  of  the  small  Roman  town  of  Hatafts.  The  school-yard 
contains  a  few  antiquities.  Diligence  viA,  El-Ouricia  (see  below)  to  Setif 
(p.  271). 

As  the  road  ascends  we  have  another  view  of  Jebel  Babor.  It 
winds  up  to  the  S.  to  the  (5972  M.)  Teniet  et-Tine  (3806  ft.),  a 
pass  on  the  N.  margin  of  the  plateau  of  Setif  (p.  271)  commanding 
fine  views,  and  then  descends  to  (641/a  M.)  El-Ouricia  (3543  ft.), 
a  village  near  the  head  of  the  Oued  Bou  Sellam  valley  (p.  251), 
with  a  few  vineyards.  68  M.  Fermatou,  at  the  mouth  of  the  brook 
of  that  name. 

72  M.  &e&ft  see  p.  271. 


43.  Froni  Algiers  to  Constantine  via  Beni- 
Mansour,  Setif,  and  El-Guerrah. 

288>/>>  M-  Railway  (comp.  p.  173).  Two  express  trains  daily  in  12'/4- 
12'/,  hrs." (fares  51  fr.  95,  37  fr.  10,  27  fr.  85  c),  one  in  the  morning  (with 
dining-car),  the  other  in  the  evening  (sleeping-berth  15  fr.  extra).  M- 
Querrah  is  the  junction  for  Biskra  (R.  44);  Le  Khroub  for  Bona  (R.  48) 
and  Souk-Ahras  (and  Tunis;  RR.  49,  51).  Railway  Restaurants  at  Bouira, 
Beui-Mansour,  Setif,  El-Guerrah,  and  Le  Khroub. 

From  Algiers  to  (107  M.)  Beni-Mansour,  see  R.  37.  The  train 
now  leaves  the  Sahel  valley  (p.  251),  enters,  to  the  S.,  the  valley 
of  the  Oued  Alahrir,  and  passes  through  a  series  of  gorges  flanked 
with  blackish  limestone  rocks,  between  the  hills  of  the  Bent  Abbes 
on  the  left  and  the  Bern  Mansour  on  the  right,  here  almost  un- 
inhabited. To  the  left  we  have  a  final  glimpse  of  the  Jurjura  range 
(p.  258)  behind  us 


270     Route  43.  BOU-SAADA.  From  Algiers 

115  M.  Les  Portes-de-Fer,  the  first  station  in  the  province  of 
Constantine,  with  a  Sunday  market,  lies  at  the  entrance  of  the  two 
passes  over  the  Chalne  des  Biban  (pi.  of  bdb,  gate)  or  Chabet  es- 
Sttif.  These  are  the  *Grande-Porte  (Arabic  Bdb  el-Keblr), 
through  which  flows  the  Oued  Chebba,  the  main  branch  of  the  Oued 
Mahrir,  and  the  Petite-Porte  (Bdb  es-Serir),  the  ravine  of  its  trib- 
utary the  Oued  Bou-Ketoun.  The  train  runs  through  the  former 
of  these  passes,  a  grand  defile,  where  the  rocks  are  curiously 
stratified. 

125  M.  Mzita  (1811  ft.)  lies  in  a  bleak  plain- on  the  S.  margin 
of  the  Chaine  des  Biban.  The  train  now  ascends  rapidly  to  the  S.E., 
between  Jebel  Mzita  (4813  ft.)  on  theleft  and  Jebel  Kteuf  (6109  ft.) 
on  the  right,  to  (130  M.)  Mansoura  (2297  ft.),  a  village  of  immi- 
grant peasants,  with  a  sulphur-spring. 

Leaving  the  Chebba  valley,  we  next  pass,  to  the  E.,  through  a 
tunnel  of  2405  yds.  (5  min.)  into  the  Medjana,  a  lofty  and  unattrac- 
tive plain  on  the  N.  borders  of  the  Monts  du  Hodna  (see  below). 

149  M.  Bordj-Bou-Arr<§ridj  (3002  ft. ;  Hot.  des  Voyageurs, 
unpretentious;  pop.  3500,  incl.  many  Alsatian  settlers;  Wed. 
market),  a  small  town  adjoined  by  a  large  Berber  village. 

This  is  the  best  starting-point  for  the  highly  attractive  Took  to  Bou- 
Saada,  which  vies  in  interest  with  the  excursions  to  Figuig  (p.  204), 
GhardaYa  (p.  216),  and  Biskra  (p.  279).  The  road  (78  M. ;  diligence  at  4.30  a.  m., 
in  17  his. ;  fare  10  fr.  10  or  6  Ir.  60  c. ;  returning  from  Bou-Saada  at  5  p.  m.j 
turns  to  the  S.  into  the  valley  of  the  Oued  Ksob,  flanked  on  the  W.  and 
E.  by  Jebel  Gourin  (3400  ft.)  and  Jebel  Mdadid  (6112  ft.).  The  stream, 
having  forced  a  passage  through  the  Monts  du  Hodna,  the  N.  borders  of  the 
lofty  steppe,  where  phosphates  abound,  is  afterwards  called  Oued  M'Sila 
and  falls  into  the  Chott  el-Hodna  (see  below).  In  the  E.  side-valley  of  the 
Oued  Oucedjiit,  2  M.  off  the  road,  and  8  M.  from  Bordj-Bou-Arreiidj,  lies 
Lecourbe  or  Oided-Agla,  with  scanty  vestiges  of  the  Roman  Equizetum  ('?). 
On  the  S.  edge  of  Jebel  Maadid,  about  9'/2  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  road,  or 
reached  from  Bordj-Bou-ArriSridj  by  diligence  via  (19  M.)  Bordj-Rdir 
(very  poor  inn),  lie  the  extensive  ruins  (palaces,  minaret,  etc.)  of  the 
Berber  town  of  Kalda  des  Beni-Hammad,  the  residence  of  the  Hammadites 
in  1001-90  (p.  263). 

At  (36  M.)  the  little  town  of  M'Sila  (1539  ft.;  Hot.  Duhoux,  Hot. 
Reyre,  both  poor)  we  reach  the  Plaine  du  Hodna,  a  vast  steppe,  very  hot 
in  summer,  notable  for  its  abundance  of  game  and  the  thousands  of  camels 
which  browse  on  the  extensive  pastures.  We  cross  several  river-beds, 
where  curious  rose-shaped  crystals,  'roses  of  the  desert',  are  often  found, 
and  descend  gradually  past  several  artesian  wells  to  the  S.E.  to  the  Chott 
el-Hodna  (1312  ft.),  a  vast  salt-lake,  44  M.  long  and  12^2  M.  broad  at  its 
widest  part,  whose  swampy  shores  are  enlivened  by  countless  water-fowl. 
Between  this  lake  and  Bou-Saada  we  pass  several  shifting  sand-hills. 

78  M.  Bou-Sa&da  (1903  ft.;  cafes-hotels:  Bailly,  R.  2>/2-3,  B.  8/4-l, 
dej.  or  D.  2'/2-3,  pens,  from  5  fr.,  all  according  to  bargain;  AragontSs; 
pop.  7000,  mostly  Arabs,  Mozabites,  as  to  whom  see  p.  216,  and  Jews), 
the  chief  scene  of  the  'lettres  familieres'  of  Col.  Pein  (p.  175)  and  for 
ages  a  favourite  resort  of  French  painters  of  Oriental  subjects,  is  most 
charmingly  grouped  round  the  Kasba  hill  (a  fine  point  of  view).  The 
dates  of  its  little  *Palm  Oasis  rival  those  of  the  Sahara.  Busy  Monday 
and  Tuesday  markets. 

An  important  caravan-route  (69'/2  M. ;  diligence  every  other  day  in 
15  hrs. ;  12  or  10  fr. ;  provisions  necessary)  connects  Bou-Saada  with  Djelfa 


to  Constantine.  SETIF.  43.  Route.     271 

(p.  215).  To  the  E.  of  the  road,  9>/.2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Bou-Saada,  on  the 
Oued  Bou-Saada,  lies  the  zaoui'a  of  El-Haviel,  a  famous  seminary  for 
priests,  where  good  quarters  are  obtainable. 

From  Bou-Saada  to  Aumale,  see  pp.  251,  250. 

The  train  now  turns  to  the  S.E.,  in  view  of  the  Hodna  Mts. 
(p.  270)  to  the  right,  crosses  several  affluents  of  the  Oued  Ksob 
(p.  270),  and  passes  unimportant  stations. 

164  M.  Ain-Tassera  (3395  ft.).  Thence  to  the  N.E.  to  (168  M.) 
Tixler-Tocqueville,  the  station  for  Tocqueville  (Arabic  Rds  el- 
Oued),  S1/,  M.  to  the  S.,  the  ancient  Roman  Thamatta,  with  remains 
of  a  Byzantine  fortress,  and  beds  of  phosphate  near  it. 

On  the  left,  farther  on,  we  have  a  view  of  the  Massif  de  Guer- 
your  (p.  269),  usually  snow-clad  in  winter.  We  then  enter  the  val- 
ley of  the  Oued  Bou  Sellam  (p.  251).  17672  M.  Hammam; 
18472  M.  Mesloug,  in  the  Plateau  de  Setif,  one  of  the  granaries 
of  Algeria,  but  often  bitterly  cold  in  winter. 

19172  M.  Setif.  — Rail.  Restaurant:  —  Hotels  (comp.  p.  174),  all 
in  the  Rue  de  Constantine:  Hot.  de  France.  R.  3</2-i,  B.  l'/a,  dej.  3'/.a, 
D.  4,  omn.  1  fr.,  well  spoken  of;  Hot.  de  Paris,  R.  from  2,  dej.  or  D. 
2  fr.,  plain  but  quite  good;  Hot.  d'Orient,  similar  charges.  —  Brasserie 
Ga?nbrintis,  in  the  Hot.  de  France. — Motor  Omnibus  via  Kerrata  to  Bougie 
(.comp.  p.  265).  —  Diligences  to  Bougie,  to  Hammam-Guergour  (p.  269) 
via  Ain-Roua,  and  to  Firigotville  (p.  269). 

Sitif  (3596  ft.;  pop.  21,790,  incl.  7800  Mohammedans  and 
1800  Jews),  on  one  of  the  highest  sites  in  Algeria,  stands  on  a  slight 
eminence  to  the  N.W.  of  the  station.  It  was  the  Sitifis  of  the 
Romans,  which  became  the  capital  of  the  new  province  of  Maure- 
tania  Sitifensis  in  297  (comp.  p.  244),  but  after  the  irruption  of 
the  Arabs  it  lost  all  importance.  Horse-breeding  is  one  of  the  chief 
resources  of  the  natives,  and  the  horse-races  are  famous. 

From  the  suburb  near  the  station  we  enter  the  town  through  the 
Porte  de  Constantine.  Near  the  Porte  d'Alger,  in  the  Place  Natio- 
nale,  adorned  with  a  fountain,  rise  the  Hotel  de  Ville  and  the  new 
Mosque.  In  the  Jardia  d' Orleans,  outside  the  Porte  d'Alger,  are  a 
few  Roman  antiquities  (altars,  tombstones,  etc.).  The  old  Byzantine 
fortress  with  its  eleven  towers,  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  has  been  con- 
verted into  the  Quartier  Militaire.  Outside  the  Porte  de  Biskra, 
where  the  Marche  Arabc  is  held  daily,  lies  a  large  Berber  Village 
with  thatched  houses. 

On  the  old  Roman  road  to  Said®  (Bougie),  which  runs  past  the  E. 
side  of  the  Jardin  d'Orlcans  (see  above),  about  1  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  the 
town,  rises  the  Mausole'e  de  Srtif  (popularly  called  Tombeau  de  Scipion), 
a  rectangular  edifice,  10  by  8  yds.,  on  a  basement  with  two  steps,  one  of 
the  best-preserved  Roman  tombs  in  Algeria. 

From  Setif  through  the  Chabet  el-Akra  to  Bougie,  see  R.  42. 

The  region  between  Setif  and  El-Guerrah  is  one  of  the  dreariest 
in  Algeria.    200  M.  Chasseloup-Laubat  (3445  ft.). 

21072  M.  St.  Arnaud  (3117  ft. ;  Hot.  de  la  Gare,  poor),  a  small 
town  of  2100  inhab.,  on  the  N.  border  of  the  barren  Plaine  des 


272     Route  4ii.  EL-GUERRAH.  From  Algiers 

Eulmas,  with  its  small  salt-lakes,  continued  to  the  N.E.  by  the 
Plateau  des  Sbakh  (p.  274). 

The  Excursion  to  Djemila,  19  M.  to  the  N.  of  St.  Arnaud,  toilsome 
but  very  repaying,  is  best  made  in  one  day,  as  there  are  no  good  night- 
quarters  on  the  route.  We  start  very  early,  by  mule,  carrying  a  supply 
of  food.  We  follow  the  highroad  to  Sillegue  (diligence  in  the  aft.)  as 
far  as  the  (12  M.)  crossing  of  the  bridle-path  from  Setif,  and  ride  thence 
to  the  N.E.  in  about  2  hrs.  to  Djemila,  a  poor  Berber  village  on  a  narrow 
and  lofty  plateau  amid  barren  mountains.  This  was  once  the  Roman 
Ciiicul,  whose  ruins,  partially  excavated  of  late,  are  the  finest  memorials 
in  Algeria  of  the  late-Roman  epoch.  The  W.  entrance  to  the  forum  was 
the  Arch  of  Caracalla,  a  single  gateway  40  ft.  high,  of  the  year  216,  re- 
cently marred  by  a  buttress  for  its  support.  On  the  S.E.  side  of  the  forum 
is  a  Temple,  of  which  part  of  the  peribolos  (55  by  37  yds.)  and  the  walls 
of  the  cella  alone  survive.  To  the  N.W.  of  the  forum  are  remains  of  a 
Fountain.  In  the  S.W.  part  of  the  ancient  town  are  the  ruins  of  Thermae. 
The  *Theatre,  which  originally  had  24  tiers  of  seats,  is  remarkable  for 
its  well-preserved  stage,  37  by  8  yds.,  and  still  19  ft.  in  height,  the  front- 
wall  being  similar  to  that  of  Timgad  (p.  293)  or  of  Khamissa,  etc. 

220  M.  Navarin  (3170  ft.;  Arabic  Bir  el-Arkh);  228  M.  St. 
Donat  (2812  ft.),  on  the  Rhumel  (p.  297). 

239  M.  Mechia  -  Chdteaudun ,  station  for  Chdteaudun-du- 
Rhumel  (2625  ft.),  a  small  town  51/.,  M.  to  the  N.,  on  the  Setif  and 
Constantine  road,  with  a  great  Thursday  cattle-market.  Near  it  are 
extensive  pastures,  enlivened  in  summer  by  thousands  of  Sahara 
nomads  with  their  herds  of  camels. 

25072  M.  Oued-Seguin-Telergma  (2480  ft.),  in  the  Plaine  de 
Telergma,  where  the  neighbouring  garrisons  have  their  summer 
training.  It  is  the  station  for  (51/2  M.)  the  little  town  of  Oued- 
Seguin  (2474  ft.),  on  the  river  of  that  name,  a  tributary  of  the 
Rhumel,  and  for  Oued-Athmenia,  with  the  splendid  thermse  of  the 
Roman  villa  of  Pompeianus,  and  Ain-Smara,  with  its  marble  quar- 
ries, two  villages  on  the  Setif  and  Constantine  road. 

265V2  M.  El-Guerrah  (2412  ft.;  Rail.  Restaurant;  Hot.  de  la 
Gare,  R.  3,  D.  3!/2  fr.,  quite  good),  junction  of  the  line  from  Con- 
stantine to  Batna  and  Biskra  (R.  44),  lies  on  the  Garah  or  Guerrah, 
one  of  the  sources  of  the  Oued  Bou  Merzoug  (see  below).  The  station 
occupies  an  isolated  site  on  a  steppe  enclosed  by  barren  mountains. 
Extensive  view  to  the  S.W.  towards  Batna. 

The  Constantine  train  descends  to  the  N.E.  into  the  Oued  Bou 
Merzoug  valley. 

27V/o  M.  Ouled-Rahmoun  (2264  ft.;  Rail.  Restaurant,  plain), 
around  which  are  many  megalithic  tombs. 

From  Ouled-Rahmoun  to  Ain-Be'ida  akd  Khenchela,  91>/2M.,  narrow- 
gauge  line  in  53/4-6'/4  hrs. ;  fares  15  fr.  80,  11  f r.  75,  8  fr.  85  c.  (change  at  Ai'n- 
Bei'da).  The  line  traverses  a  hilly  steppe,  ascending  to  the  S.E.  along  the 
Oued  Bou  Merzoug,  the  main  stream  of  which  is  called  Oued  Kleb  farther 
up.  7l/a  M.  Signs  (2523  ft.),  on  the  site  of  the  Roman  town  of  that  name, 
with  scanty  relics  of  a  forum-basilica  with  three  halls.  Near  it  are  a  Roman 
and  a  contemporaneous  Berber  burial-ground,  the  latter  containing  many 
dolmens  (p.  324)  and  also  remains  of  old  quarries.  Beyond  (20l/.>  M.)  A'in- 
Fukroun  (3032  ft.)  we  ascend  rapidly  to  the  Col  d'Ourkis  (about  3480  ft.), 


to  Conslaiitiitc.  LE   KHROUB.  43.  Route.     273 

which  crosses  one  of  the  offshoots  of  the  Plateau  des  Sbakh  (p.  271).  41  M. 
Canrobert  (3041  ft. ;  Arabic  Um  el-Buaghi),  at  the  S.  base  of  Jebel  Sidi 
R' ghettos  (5811  ft.;  with  argentiferous  lead-mines).  The  line  runs  to  the  E., 
across  an  upland  plain  where  ruins  abound. 

58  M.  Ain-Beida  (3307  ft.;  Hot.  d'Orient,  Hot.  de  Paris,  both  rustic; 
pop.  2400),  in  the  territory  of  the  Uaractas,  a  large  Berber  tribe  differ- 
ing but  slightly  from  Arabs,  is  the  starting-point  of  a  road  (diligence  in 
lllirs.;  railway  under  construction)  viS.  (20  M.)  Meskiana  to  (52'/2  M.) 
TebesM  (p.  815).    The  Jardin  Public  contains  several  Roman  inscriptions. 

From  Ain-Beida  the  line  turns  to  the  S.W.  towards  the  spurs  of  the 
Aures  Mts.  (p.  278).  Stations  unimportant.  72'/2  M.  Tarf,  near  the  salt- 
works of  the  great  salt-lake  Garaet  et-Tarf  (2723  ft.).  Far  to  the  left  rises 
Jebel  Tafrent,  rich  in  phosphates.  83  M.  Baghai  (2914  ft.),  on  the  Oued 
Baghai,  formerly  Bagai,  was  one  of  the  chief  towns  of  the  Donatists  in 
the  4th  cent.  (Thamugadi  being  the  other,  p.  289),  where  in  394  a  council 
of  310  I)onatist  bishops  was  held,  but  after  the  12th  cent,  it  fell  to  decay. 
The  only  memorial  of  its  ancient  importance  is  the  ruinous  Ksar  Baghai, 
a  Byzantine  fortress  (built  in  the  time  of  Justinian,  after  539),  360  by 
335  yds.,  with  25  towers.  On  the  N.W.  side  is  a  castle  dominated  by  a 
keep  84  ft.  high.  —  The  line  then  winds  up  to  — 

91'/.,  M.  Khenchela  (3730  ft. ;  Hot.  de  France,  Hot.  du  Square,  both 
poor),  a  little  town  of  2900  inhab.,  once  the  Roman  Mascula,  the  key  of 
the  E.  Aures  passes,  and  still  the  starting-point  of  important  caravan-routes 
to  the  Sahara.  It  carries  on  a  thriving  art-industry  (manufacture  of  trin- 
kets, etc.)  and  holds  a  busy  Tuesday  market.  The  Roman  ruins  were 
swept  away  when  the  present  town  was  founded  about  1860;  but  there 
is  a  small  collection  of  antiquities  (conservator  M.  Catalogne). 

Road  to  Timgad,  Lambese,  and  Batna,  see  p.  286.  From  that  road 
another  diverges  to  the  left  to  (4'/»  M.)  Ain-el-Hammam  (about  3940  ft.), 
prettily  situated  in  the  wooded  valley  of  the  brook  of  that  name,  with 
a  hot  chalybeate  spring  (158°  Fahr.).  This  was  the  Aquae  Flavianae  of  the 
as,  whose  *Thermae,  probably  erected  under  Vespasian,  and  restored 
under  Septimius  Severus  in  208,  the  best-preserved  in  Barbary,  are  now 
again  in  use.  We  note  specially  the  round  hall,  ouco  domed,  with  its 
circular  piscina  26  ft.  in  diameter,  and  the  large  open  piscina,  45  by  33  ft., 
with  two  vaulted  lateral  passages,  flanked  with  side-rooms  and  basins.  — ' 
A  bridle-path  leads  to  the  S.W.  from  Ain-el-Hammam  to  (12Va  M.)  the 
forester's  house  of  A'in-Mimoun  (4413  ft.),  amidst  fine  cedar-woods  (p.  210), 
whence  we  may  descend  to  the  N.E.  to  Foum-Tizourit  on  the  Batna  road. 

278'/2  M.  Le  Khroub  (2051  ft. ;  Eail.  Restaurant ;.H6t.Victoria, 
near  the  station;  Hot.  d'Orient;  pop.  9700,  all  Mohammedans  but 
500),  the  next  station  on  the  Constantine  railway,  has  an  important 
cattle-market.  On  a  stony  hill  to  the  E.  of  the  town  (2527  ft.),  about 
1  hr.  from  the  railway,  rises  the  Mausolee  du  Khroub,  called  by 
the  natives  Sauma  (tower),  the  tomb  of  a  Berber  prince  of  pre- 
Roman  times,  built  of  huge  blocks  of  stone  in  the  Grseco-Punic 
style.  The  square  pedestal,  resting  on  a  basement  in  three  steps, 
and  part  of  the  groundfloor  adorned  with  round  shields  still  exist. 
The  upper  story,  wliich  consisted  of  a  hall  resting  on  eight  Doric 
columns  with  a  grooved  cornice,  and  the  conical  (?)  summit  were 
probably  destroyed  by  an  earthquake. 

From  (Constantino)  Lo  Khroub  to  Bona,  see  R.  48;  to  Souk-Ahras 
(Tebessa,  Tunis),  see  R.  49. 

Near  (281 72  M.)  Oued-Hamimin  we  sight  the  suburbs  of  Con- 
stantine to  the  left.  To  the  left  rises  also  Jebel  Chettaba  (p.  297). 
286  M.  Hippodrome,  station  for  the  Constantino  race-course. 


274     Route  44.  MEDRACEN.  From  Constantino 

287  M.  Sidi-Mabrouk,  a  villa-suburb  of  Constantino.  To  the 
left,  on  the  Batna  road,  are  five  arches  of  the  *Roman  Aqueduct, 
once  extending  from  Ras  el-Ai'n  Bon  Merzong  (near  Ouled-Rahmoun, 
p.  272)  to  the  Coudiat-Aty  (p.  297),  a  distance  of  23  M. 

At  the  foot  of  the  Plateau  de  Mansoura  (2303  ft.)  the  train 
enters  the  Rhumel  Valley.  On  the  left  are  the  blue-washed  houses 
of  the  native  quarter  of  (2887a  M.)  Constantine  (p.  297). 


44.   From  Constantine  to  Biskra  via  El- 
Guerrah  and  Batna. 

149  M.  Railway.  Through-train,  including  a  1st  class  saloon  carriage 
(10  fr.  extra)  with  'wagon-restaurant'  in  winter,  in  7  hrs. ;  ordinary  train 
in  83/4  hrs.  (fares  26  fr.  85,  19  fr.  20,  14  fr.  40  c).  Views  to  the  right  as 
far  as  Fontaine  des  Gazelles.  Railway  Restaurants  at  El-Guerrah,  Batna, 
and  El-Kantara. 

Among  the  intermediate  stations  Batna  is  important  only  as  the 
starting-point  for  Lambese  and  Timgad  (R.  45).  El-Kantara  deserves  a 
stay  of  some  days  for  the  sake  of  its  own  scenery  and  as  a  base  for  ex- 
cursions to  Tilatou,  the  Maafa  valley,  etc. 

From  Constantine  to  (23  M.)  El-Guerrah,  see  above  and  pp.  273, 
272.  Passing  (31  M.)  Ain-M'Lila  (2527  ft.),  we  reach  the  Plateau 
des  Sbakh,  the  great  steppe  of  E.  Algeria,  with  its  numerous  salt- 
lakes,  'dreary  in  the  extreme,  yet  grand  in  its  motionless  repose, 
with  tufts  of  grey-green  alfa  growing  here  and  there  on  the  salt 
soil,  backed  by  the  bold  precipices  and  pinnacles  of  bare  rocky 
mountains'.  Appropriate  accessories  are,  however,  furnished  now 
and  then  by  the  huts  or  tents  of  nomadic  tribes  with  their  herds. 

On  the  right  rises  the  bare  Jebel  Nif-Ensser.  Farther  on  we 
obtain,  especially  by  morning  light,  a  fine  view  of  the  salt-lake  of 
Tinsilt,  backed  by  the  spurs  of  the  Sahara  Atlas  (p.  170). 

427a  M.  Les  Lacs  (2592  ft.),  on  the  neck  of  land  between  Lake 
Tinsilt  and  (on  the  left)  CJwtt  Mzouri.  We  now  traverse  a  long 
embankment  crossing  Lake  Tinsilt,  which  is  often  enlivened  by 
flamingoes  and  wild-duck.    53  M.  Ain-Yagout  (2891  ft.). 

58  M.  Fontaine-Chaude  (about  2790  ft.),  with  a  few  tents  of 
nomads,  near  the  small  Oued  Mader. 

Just  before  the  station  we  observe  on  the  left  the  Medracen  (Ara- 
bic Madghasen),  a  pre-Roman  royal  tomb  (of  Masinissa?),  the  finest  of 
the  kind  in  Algeria  after  the  Tombeau  de  la  Cbr^tienne  (p.  238).  The 
huge  monument  (reached  by  a  field-road  from  the  station  in  IV4  hr.) 
stands  in  an  ancient  Berber  burial-ground  on  the  flat  saddle  between  two 
low,  bare  ranges  of  hills,  about  halfway  between  Fontaine-Chaude  and 
the  (6  M.)  Sebkha  Djendeli,  the  ancient  Lacus  Regius.  The  Medracen, 
one  of  the  few  existing  tumulus-tombs  in  the  Grseco-Punic  style,  consists 
of  a  massive  cylindrical  basement,  64  yds.  in  diameter  and  only  14'/2  ft. 
high,  on  which  rises  a  conical  pyramid  in  twenty-four  steps,  crowned  with 
a  platform  of  12'/a  yds.  in  diameter  (the  total  height  being  60  ft.).  The  sixty 
unfluted  Doric  half-columns  recall  the  oldest  Greek  temples  of  Sicily, 
while  the  concave  moulding  above  the  architrave  is  Egyptian  in  character. 


to  Biskra  BATNA.  **•  Route.     275 

The  rude  engravings  on  the  basement,  as  well  as  the  Libyan  and  late- 
Punie  inscriptions,  are  ancient.  Of  tho  vestibule,  26  by  16  yds.,  but  few 
vestiges  are  left.  The  straight  passage  leading  to  the  two  small  tomb- 
chambers  in  the  centre  of  the  building  collapsed  in  1865.  The  two  other 
shafts  were  bored  by  treasure-hunting  natives. 

In  the  lofty  valley  of  the  Oued  Mader  we  now  reach  the  N. 
fringe  of  the  Sahara  Atlas,  between  the  spurs  of  the  Bellezma  Mts. 
on  the  W.  and  Jebel  Bou  Arif  (5728  ft.),  a  range  parallel  on  the 
N.  with  the  Aures  Mts.  (p.  278). 

62y2  M.  El-Mader-Pasteur  (2851  ft.)  is  the  station  for  El- 
Mader,  the  Roman  Casae,  a  village  with  a  little  Byzantine  fortress, 
situated  5  M.  to  the  S.E.,  at  the  foot  of  Jebel  Bou  Arif.  A  road 
leads  from  this  station  also  to  (8  M.)  Pasteur  and  (19  M.)  Zana. 

The  village  of  Pasteur  (two  inns),  on  the  Oued  Seriana,  was  the 
ancient  Lamiggiga.    In  tho  market  are  Roman  and  early-Christian  relics. 

Zana  (no  inn),  the  Roman  Diana  Veteranorum,  a  considerable  colony 
of  veterans,  has  several  interesting  ancient  buildings.  A  triumphal  arch 
of  165  A.  D.  is  well  preserved  with  the  exception  of  the  attica.  An  arch 
of  Macrinus  (217  A.  D.)  formed  afterwards  part  of  a  small  Byzantine 
fortress.  The  portal  of  a  temple  is  still  standing.  The  ruined  Byzantine 
church  in  the  forum  was  built  chiefly  of  materials  from  Roman  ruins. 

The  train  mounts  a  steep  gradient  to  (66y2  M.)  Fesdis  (3032  ft.), 
in  a  defile  scantily  overgrown  with  bushes,  between  Jebel  Azeb 
(4485  ft.;  on  the  left)  and  the  Bellezma  Mts. 

73  M.  Batna. — Rail.  Restaurant,  dej.  3,  D.  3>/2fr.,  good.  — Hotels 
(sometimes  crowded  in  the  season):  Hot.  des  Etrangers,  Rue  de  S6tif,  R. 
3-4,  B.  l'/j,  dej.  3-3'/a,  D-  3>/2-4,  omn.  *lt-\  fr. ;  Hot.  de  Paris,  Rue  de  Con- 
stantine, next  tho  town-hall,  it.  2>/2,  B.  VU,  dej.  2>/2,  D-  3,  omn.  V2  fr-, 
plain  but  good;  St.  Georges,  Rue  de  StStif,  unpretending  (attentive  host). 

Batna  (3412  ft.;  pop.  7500,  incl.  2400  Mohammedans  and 
700  Jews),  founded  in  1844  as  a  military  base  for  the  advance  upon 
Biskra,  and  now  the  chief  military  station  in  S.  Constantine  and  the 
key  to  the  important  Sahara  pass  of  El-Kantara,  is  a  peaceful  coun- 
try-town with  regularly-built  streets,  and  offers  no  attraction  save 
perhaps  the  '  Village  -Negre1  (comp.  p.  181),  to  the  S.E.  of  the 
Quartier  Militaire.  It  lies  near  the  sources  of  the  Oued  Mader  in 
a  broad  valley,  often  very  cold  in  winter,  between  the  wooded 
Bellezma  Mts.  on  the  W.,  Jebel  Azeb  (see  above)  on  the  N.E.,  and 
the  spurs  of  the  Aures  Mts.  (p.  278)  on  the  S. 

Tho  finest  point  of  view  is  Jebel  Touggour  or  Pic  des  Cldres 
(6870  ft.),  to  the  W.  of  the  town,  a  grand  pyramid  belonging  to  the  Bellezma 
group.  A  rough  road  (mule  4-5  fr.),  leading  close  past  the  station,  ascends 
the  valley  to  tho  W.  and  then  the  Ravin  des  Gardes,  between  Jebel 
Touggour  and  Jebel  Bou  Merzoug  (5840  ft.),  to  (7l/a  M.)  the  Maison  Fores- 
tiere  Oued  Hamla.  Thence  a  bridle-path  on  the  richly  wooded  S.  slope 
of  Jebel  Touggour;  lastly  a  climb,  towards  the  N.E.,  through  ancient  but 
neglected  cedar-forest  (p.  210),  to  the  (4  hrs.)  summit.  Tho  immense  panor- 
ama embraces  tho  Bellezma  group  and  the  distant  Hodna  Mts.  (p.  270)  to 
the  W.,  the  Plateau  des  Sbakh  and  the  Tell  Atlas  near  Constantine  to 
the  N.E.,  the  long  range  of  the  Aures  Mts.  to  the  S.E.  and  S.,  and  part 
of  the  Sahara  to  the  S.W. 

From  Batna  to  Lumbese  and  Timgad,  see  R.  45. 


276     Route  44.  EL-KANTARA.  From  Constantine 

Beyond  Batna  the  train  crosses  the  watershed  (3543  ft.)  between 
the  Plateau  des  Sbakh  and  the  Sahara.  Far  away  to  the  S.W.  are 
seen  Jebel  Metlili  and  the  depression  of  the  pass  of  El-Kantara 
(see  below).  80  M.  Lambiridi  (3527  ft.),  near  the  scanty  ruins 
of  the  Roman  town  of  that  name. 

"We  descend  the  broad  valley  of  the  Oued  el-Ksour  or  Oued 
Ain  Touta,  one  of  the  sources  of  the  Oued  Biskra  (p.  279),  to  (94  M.) 
Mac-Mahon  (3002  ft.;  Arabic  Ain-Tuta),  a  poplar-shaded  oasis 
and  alfa  station  (p.  171),  originally  founded  by  Alsatians.  The 
next  part  of  the  line,  through  a  steppe  furrowed  by  the  brook  and 
the  winter  rains,  is  curious  and  interesting. 

99  M.  Les  Tamarins  (about  2460  ft.)  is  not  far  from  the  famous 
gorge  of  the  stream,  here  called  Oued  Tilatou  (comp.  p.  277). 

The  train  next  threads  tunnels  and  cuttings  through  the  saddle 
between  the  Tilatou  valley  and  that  of  the  Oued  Fedhala  or 
Guebli,  the  second  feeder  of  the  Oued  Biskra,  whence  we  descend  in 
a  wide  bend  to  the  E.  to  (103  M.)  Madfa  (about  2130  ft.),  at  the 
influx  of  the  brook  Madfa  into  the  Fedhala  (excursion  to  the 
Maafa  valley,  see  pp.  277,  278). 

In  the  foreground  we  again  sight  the  bold  rocky  slopes  of  El- 
Kantara.  We  recross  the  Oued  Guebli,  which,  below  the  mouth 
of  the  Tilatou  (see  above),  is  named  Oued  el-Kantara,  skirt  the 
S.E.  base  of  the  Metlili  (p.  277),  and  cross  the  stream  to  — 

114  M.  El-Kantara.  —  Rail.  Restaurant.  —  Hotel  (comp.  p.  174). 
*Hvt.  Bertrand,  with  view,  R.  3-3V2,  B.  1,  dej.  Z-'dll2,  pens.  10,  omn.  '/a  fr. 
— Post  Office,  opposite  the  hotel.  —  Carriage  2'/2  fr.  per  hour.  —  Mule 
with  English  saddle,  per  day  5  fr.,  with  Arabian  saddle  3l/a  fr.  (in  the 
villages  of  the  oasis  27a  fr.,  when  not  ordered  through  a  guide). 

El-Kdntara  (1772  ft.;  'the  bridge',  so  named  from  its  Roman 
bridge),  the  Roman  Calceus  Hercidis,  one  of  the  most  important 
caravan-stations  in  E.  Algeria  prior  to  the  opening  of  the  railway, 
owes  its  fame  to  the  grand  gorge  of  the  Oued  el-Kantara,  called 
by  the  natives  Fumm  es-Sahara  ('mouth  of  the  desert').  The  river 
here  suddenly  emerges  from  a  wild  Alpine  region,  flanked  by  the 
red  limestone  rocks  of  Jebel  Gaous  and  Jebel  Essor,  into  a  highly 
picturesque  palm-oasis,  below  which  it  skirts  the  spurs  of  the  Aure'8 
Mts.  (p.  278)  and  careers  rapidly  down  to  the  Sahara. 

From  the  station  the  road  on  the  left  bank,  overlooking  the 
river-bed,  with  its  profusion  of  wild  oleanders,  and  the  charming 
orchards  on  the  floor  of  the  valley,  descends  in  10  min.  to  the  Hotel 
Bertrand,  situated  at  the  finest  and  wildest  point  of  the  ravine,  in 
a  basin  almost  entirely  shut  in  by  grey  rocky  slopes.  A  few  hundred 
paces  farther,  just  before  the  mouth  of  the  *Gorge  (here  barely 
45  yds.  wide),  is  the  Roman  Bridge,  which  was  too  thoroughly 
restored  in  1862  under  Napoleon  III.,  carrying  the  old  road,  now 
partly  destroyed  by  a  landslip,  from  the  right  bank  of  the  river  to 


to  Biskra.  EL-KANTARA.  44.  Route.     277 

the  left.  From  the  bridge  we  enjoy  a  peculiar  and  striking  view 
across  the  palm-oasis  to  the  red  weather-worn  rocks  of  the  Montague 
d'Albatre  (p.  278).  A  similar  view  is  offered  by  the  Iron  Bridge, 
8  min.  lower  down,  whence  we  may  look  back  also  into  the  ravine 
with  Jebel  Metlili  rising  behind  it. 

The  neighbouring  *Oasis  (pop.  3500),  with  its  three  mud-built 
villages,  inhabited  exclusively  by  natives  of  Berber  descent,  is,  next 
to  Bou  Saada  (p.  270),  the  northmost  palm-oasis  in  Barbary.  From 
the  iron  bridge  the  road  leads  past  a  kubba  and  cactus-gardens 
to  (12  min.)  Dahraouia,  the  only  village  at  the  foot  of  the  red  rocks 
of  the  right  bank  of  the  stream,  named  also  Village  Rouge  from 
the  red  mud-walls  of  the  houses  at  its  W.  end,  below  the  old  burial- 
ground.  The  flat  roof  of  the  lower  mosque,  situated  on  the  steep 
bank  of  the  stream,  affords  a  splendid  view  of  the  village  and  of 
the  oasis  as  far  as  the  Village  Noir  (see  below). 

"We  now  descend  through  luxuriant  gardens  to  the  right  bank 
of  the  El-Kantara,  above  which  the  village  extends  picturesquely, 
cross  the  stream  10  min.  lower  down  (by  mule,  or  wading,  or  carried 
by  a  native),  and  then,  from  the  generally  dry  bed  of  the  Rivi&re 
Blanche  (p.  278),  mount  to  the  right  to  Bourabes  or  Village  Noir. 
From  the  N.  end  of  this  village  we  ascend  the  valley  in  8  min.  to 
Crueraguere  or  Klirekar,  known  also  as  the  Village  Blanc,  the 
largest  village  in  the  oasis.  We  may  walk  through  it  and  regain 
the  hotel  in  20-25  minutes. 

If  the  El-Kantara  is  swollen  we  must  return  from  Dahraoul'a 
to  the  iron  bridge  and  visit  Gueraguere  and  Bourabes  from  the  left 
bank.  By  carriage  (7 72  M.,  in  V/2  hr.)  we  drive  via  Dahraoula  to 
the  S.  end  of  the  oasis,  and  return  on  the  left  bank  via  Bourabes 
and  Gueraguere.  In  the  villages  themselves  we  alight  that  we  may 
better  appreciate  the  novelty  of  the  scene. 

The  *Jebel  Metlili  (4900  ft.),  a  range  of  hills  to  the  N.W.  of  El- 
Kantara,  scantily  overgrown  with  scrub  and  alfa-grass  (p.  171),  commands 
a  splendid  view  of  the  steppe  of  El-Outaya  (p.  278)  and  the  Sahara,  as 
well  as  of  the  fringes  of  the  Sahara  Atlas  as  far  as  Jebel  Ahmar-Khaddou 
(p.  284).  The  clearness  of  the  air  and  the  wonderful  effects  of  light  and 
shade  enhance  the  fascination  of  the  scene.  The  mule-track  (2'/i>-3  hrs.) 
leads  to  the  W.  through  the  valley  of  the  generally  dry  Oued  Chebaba 
and  then  winds  up  through  a  gorge  and  over  the  hill-side  to  the  summit. 
On  tbe  way  are  sometimes  seen  gazelles  and  aoudads  or  maned  sheep  (Ovis 
tragelaphus,  Arabic  arwi;  occasionally  even  at  El-Kantara). 

The  excursion  to  the  *G-orges  de  Tilatou  takes  a  whole  day,  or  about 
5-6  hrs.  only  if  we  go  by  train  to  Les  Ta  mar  ins  (p.  276),  sending  mules 
thither  beforehand  (provisions  should  he  taken).  Travellers  from  Biskra 
should  go  by  the  morning  train  to  El-Kantara  and  proceed  thence  on 
mule-back  to  Les  Tamarins,  whore  they  arrive  in  time  for  the  afternoon 
train  to  Constantine. — The  very  picturesque  entrance  to  the  Tilatou  valley 
is  about  3  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  El-Kantara.  The  grandest  part  of  the  gorge 
is  at  the  Berber  village  (dashera)  of  Tilatou,  with  its  curious,  still  partly 
inhabited  rock- dwellings.  The  village  lies  about  halfway  between  the 
mouth  of  the  river  and  the  station  of  Les  Tamarins. 

A  visit  to  the  Madfa  Valley  takes  a  whole  day  from  El-Kantara, 


278     Route  44.  AURES  MTS.  From  Comtantine 

or  from  the  Madfa  station  (p.  276),  with  the  ride  back  to  El-Kantara, 
6-7  hrs.  at  least.  The  mule-track  leads  past  the  S.  base  of  Jebel  Grown 
(3905  ft.)  and  the  small  mosque  of  Sidi  Yahia  to  the  rock- villages  of 
Fetatcha  and  Ameradsa,  inhabited  by  the  Chaouia  (see  below),  at  the 
entrance  to  the  wildest  parts  of  the  ravine.  Good  riders  may  return  to 
El-Kantara  via  Beni-Ferah  (see  below). 

The  Aures  Mts.,  the  Mons  Aurasius  of  antiquity  (Arabic  Auras),  in- 
habited almost  exclusively  by  the  Chaoiria  ('shepherds'),  a  Berber  tribe, 
not  subdued  by  the  French  until  1845,  rise  to  the  E.  of  El-Kantara,  culminat- 
ing in  Jebel  Chelia  (7634  ft.)  and  Kef  Mahmel  (7615  ft.),  the  two  highest 
peaks  in  Algeria.  This  grand  mountain-region,  with  the  wild  and  inter- 
esting valleys  of  the  Oued  Abdi  and  the  Oued  el-Abiod,  is  as  yet  almost 
inaccessible  to  tourists,  no  quarters  being  obtainable  except  by  the  cour- 
tesy of  the  French  officials  or  of  the  natives.  A  tour  here,  especially 
in  winter,  necessitates  almost  as  tedious  and  costly  preparations  as  tra- 
velling in  Morocco  (comp.  p.  97).  Better  communication  will,  however,  be 
provided  by  the  new,  still  unfinished  road  from  Markomia  (p.  289)  to 
Biskra  (p.  279),  by  way  of  Medina  (4780  ft.)  and  Aris  (3842  ft.),  opening 
up  the  head  of  the  Oued  el-Abiod  valley,  thence  following  the  line  of 
the  ancient  Roman  road  through  the  grand  Ravine  of  Tighanimine,  and 
descending  from  the  zone  of  the  cedar-forests  to  M'chounech  and  JDroh, 
the  palm-oases  on  the  Ahmar-Khaddou  (p.  281). 

A  glance  at  the  wild  scenery  of  the  Aures  Mts.  is  obtained  by  riding 
past  the  Jebel  Haouidja  (see  below)  to  (10  M.)  A'in-Zatout  or  Beni-Ferah 
(about  2950  ft.),  a  picturesque  hill-village  of  the  Beni  Ferah  tribe.  Strength 
permitting,  we  may  ride  thence  to  the  S.  to  (17'/2M.)  *Djemmorah  (quarters 
at  the  sheikh's)  and  (29  M.)  Branis  (988  ft.),  two  palm-oases  in  the  lower 
Oued  Abdi  valley,  belonging  to  the  Ouled  Ziane,  the  only  Arab  tribe  in 
the  Aures,  and  to  (42>/2  M.)  Biskra  (p.  279). 

After  leaving  El-Kantara  the  Railway  passes  through  three 
short  tunnels  into  the  Gorge  of  El-Kantara  (p.  276).  Near  the 
Roman  bridge  we  obtain  a  striking  glimpse  of  the  Palm  Oasis, 
which,  farther  on,  beyond  the  bed  of  the  Riviere  Blanche,  we 
survey  in  its  full  extent.  Looking  back,  on  the  right,  we  have  a 
fine  view  of  the  red  rocks  in  the  gorge. 

Running  to  the  S.W.,  generally  close  to  the  Oued  el-Kantara,  the 
train  skirts  the  slopes  of  the  Montague  d' Alb  dire  or  Kef ed-Darsa, 
a  spur  of  Jebel  Haouidja  or  Jebel  Kteuf,  which  are  geologically 
interesting  and  have  a  splendid  red  glow  in  the  sunshine. 

125  M .  Fontaine  des  Gazelles  (1280  ft.)  lies  in  a  stony  waste  be- 
tween Jebel  Selloum  (2569  ft.),  the  S.W.  buttress  of  Jebel  Haouidja, 
and  the  singular  Jebel  Kroubset.  The  small  sulphur-baths  of  Ham- 
mam  Sidi  el-Hadj,  J/2  hr.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  station,  used  by  the 
natives  only,  occupy  the  site  of  the  Roman  Aquae  Herculis;  an  el- 
liptical Roman  piscina,  107  yds.  in  circumference,  still  serves  as  a 
bath.  The  spring  (97°  Fahr.)  rises  at  the  N.  base  of  Jebel  el-Melah 
or  Gharribou  (2057  ft.),  noted  for  its  rock-salt. 

Nearing  (131  M.)  El-Outaya  (905  ft.),  we  survey  on  the  right 
the  extensive  steppe  of  El-Outaya  ('the  plain'),  a  kind  of  forecourt 
of  the  Sahara,  bounded  on  the  S.  by  the  Chaine  de  Sfa  (p.  282)  and 
Jebel  IvTatraf.  The  soil  is  white  with  saltpetre  in  places.  To  the 
left,  beyond  the  station  is  a  small  palm-grove 


2/-  ^*vw -^K*  V  *JU 


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■  Oumach-e  J«Cocra>~xT<iuggauTl. 


>  et  nrmrvme  par  Wagnpr  f-Debes, 


to  Biskra.  BISKRA.  **.  Route.     279 

A  little  before  (138  M.)  Ferme  Dufourg,  the  station  for  a  model- 
farni  2l(i  M.  to  the  W.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  stream,  we  sight 
on  the  left  the  hills  of  Alimar-Khaddou  (p.  284),  sometimes  snow 
clad  in  winter,  the  landmark  of  Biskra. 

We  cross  the  Plaine  de  Dar-Raous  or  Dar  el-Aroussa,  often 
enlivened  by  gazelles;  it  lies  between  the  Aures  streams  Oued  Buu 
Gatou  and  OuedAbdi  (p.  278),  which  here  fall  into  the  El-Kantara, 
now  called  Oaed  Biskra. 

Beyond  the  lCol  des  Chiens',  a  barren  gorge  at  the  foot  of 
Jebel  el-Mlaga  (p.  282),  we  observe  on  the  left  the  Barrage  of  the 
Oued  Biskra,  constructed  in  1897  and  guarded  by  a  block-house. 
On  the  right  lies  the  Catholic  cemetery  and  in  the  distance  are 
the  palm-oases  of  — 

149  M.  Biskra.  The  Station  (PI.  A,  1)  is  at  the  N.W.  end  of  the 
town,  8-12  min.  from  most  of  the  hotels.  Sleeping-car  office  at  Buuillard 
&  Simon's,  Rue  Bertlie. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  174;  often  crowded  in  Feb.  and  March).  *Royal 
Hotel.  (PI.  a;  C,  3),  Avenue  Delacroix,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  town,  with 
garden-court,  terrace,  belvedere  (p.  281),  and  restaurant,  R.  4-20,  B.  VI2-2, 
d^j.  3'/2-4,  D.  5-7,  pens.  13-25,  omn.  1  i'r.,  closed  May-Oct.;  *Palace 
Hotel  (PI.  b;  B,  C,  4),  nest  the  Casino  (see  below),  well  situated,  with 
pretty  garden,  R.  6-20,  pens.  16-25  fr.,  closed  16th  April  to  30th  Nov.; 
Grand-Hotel  Excelsior  (PI.  g;  B,  C,  4),  with  garden,  R.  3-10,  B.  1'/.,, 
dej.  3-4,  D.  4-5,  pens.  12'/2-25  fr.,  closed  16th  May-31st  Oct.,  well  spoken 
of.  —  *H6t.  Victoria  (PI.  c;  A,  2),  Boul.  Gambetta,  with  small  garden, 
R.  3-6,  B.  l'/2,  dej.  3,  D.  4,  pens.  11-15,  omn.  3/4  fr.,  closed  16th  May  to 
14th  Oct.;  *H0t.  du  Sahara  (PI.  e;  B,  2),  Rue  Berthe,  with  restaurant  and 
garden-court,  R.  3-7,  B.  1V4,  dej.  3'/2,  D.  4,  pens.  9-10,  omn.  3/4  f r. ;  H6t. 
de  l'Oasis  (PI.  d;  C,  2),  Rue  du  Card.  Lavigerie,  with  restaurant,  R.  3-5, 
B.  1,  dej.  or  D.  3,  pens.  9-12,  omn.  1  fr.,  patronized  by  the  French,  open  the 
whole  year,  good;  Hut.  des  Zibans  (PI.  f ;  C,  2),  Rue  du  Card.  Lavigerie, 
R.  2'/2-5,  B-  1,  !•■  2'/a,  pens.  S'/a-lO  fr.,  plain. 

Cafes.    At  the  Casino  (see  below);  Glacier,  Rue  du  Card.  Lavigerie. 

Carriages  (stand  in  Square  Dufourg;  PI.  C,  3).  From  station  to  town 
with  luggage  l'/a.  per  hour  2'/2>  to  Chetma  or  the  Dunes  of  Oumache  10, 
to  Sidi-Okba  or  Droh  20,  to  Oumache  or  Bordj  Saada  25  fr.  — The  tariff 
is  high,  but  a  bargain  may  often  be  made  for  much  less,  if  without  the  inter- 
vention of  hotel-porters  or  guides. 

Horse  or  Mule,  3-6fr.,  according  to  distance.  —  Camel,  with  attatoucb 
(p.  174)  for  ladies,  4  fr.  per  day;  attendant  l/2-l  fr. 

Tramway  from  the  Casino  (see  below)  every  V2-I  hr.  on  the  Route 
deTouggourt  (PI.  C,  4,  5)  to  Old  Biskra  (in  12  min.;  10  c. ;  terminus  near 
the  Kasba  Hill) ;  also  four  times  daily  via  lieni-Mora  to  Hammam  es-Salahin 
(in  50  min.;  50  c.)  —  Diligence  to  Sidi-Okba  (at  8.30  a.m.;  returning  at 
3p.m.);  also  to  Touggourt  (comp.  p.  281). 

Physicians.  Dr.  Couillaud,  Rue  Malakoff  15  (2-4  o'cl.) ;  Dr.  Dicq-ue- 
mare,  at  the  Gr.  -Hot.  Excelsior.  —  Chemist.  O.  Isaac,  Rue  Berthe. — 
Moorish  Bath  (PI.  C,  4),  Route  dc  Touggourt.  —  Photographs  at  Fre'chon's, 
BougaulVs,  and  Maure's,  all  in  Rue  Berthe. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  B,  2),  Rue  Saad  3. 

EngHsh  Church  Service  (Jan. -April)  at  the  former  Oercle  Civil 
(PI.  1;  B,  C,  2),  Rue  Graillet. 

Amusements.  Casino  Dar-Diaf  (I'l.B,  C,  4;  p.  281),  Routo  deToug- 
gourt, with  theatre  and  concert-room;  varieties,  dances  of  the  Ouled  Nail, 
cte. —  Ouled  Nail  dancing-girls  (originally  of  the  nomadic  tribe  mentioned 
at  p.  215),   and   othor  native  artists  perform  at  the  small  native  cafes  in 

Baedkker'6  Mediterranean.  18 


280     Route  44.  BISKRA.  Characteristic:. 

the  Rue  Arcelin  and  Rue  Lapeyrouse  (PL  B,  C,  S) ;  visitors  pay  1  fr. 
(incl.  cup  of  Arabian  tea  or  coffee). 

Festivals.  The  Courses  de  Biskra,  held  for  three  days  between  1st 
and  20th  Feb.,  comprise  camel-races  (courses  sahariennes  de  mehara),  horse- 
races in  the  hippodrome  of  Beni-Mora  (p.  283),  'Fantasia  Arabe'  (eques- 
trian performances,  p.  99),  and  processions  of  the  natives. — The  'grande 
priere'  on  the  Kasba  Hill  at  the  end  of  the  fasting-month  of  Ramadan 
attracts  many  spectators.  —  To  join  the  Falcon  Hunts  of  an  agha  (see 
below)  special  permission  is  required. 

Guides  (p.xxvi;  4-5  fr.  a  day;  2  fr.  for  an  evening  only),  like  hawkers 
and  beggars,  are  a  local  pest,  but  their  services  are  entirely  superfluous, 
even  for  drives  or  rides  in  the  environs,  where  the  drivers  or  attendants 
give  information. 

Climate.  The  season  is  Nov. -April.  Lying  at  the  S.  base  of  the 
Sahara  Atlas  and  on  the  margin  of  the  desert,  Biskra  has  all  the  charac- 
teristics of  the  Sahara  climate  (pp.  170,  171).  The  great  fluctuations  of 
temperature  (mean  winter  maximum  65°  Fahr.,  mean  minimum  45°)  are 
comparatively  little  felt,  even  by  invalids,  owing  to  the  remarkable  dryness 
of  the  air.  The  rainfall  is  very  slight  and  sunless  days  are  quite  the 
exception.  The  dust,  however,  is  sometimes  troublesome,  even  in  winter, 
and  sand-storms,  especially  during  the  sirocco  (S.E.  wind),  may  occur 
at  any  season.  When  a  cold  N.  or  N.W.  wind  blows  from  the  Sahara 
Atlas,  the  palm-oasis  alone  affords  some  shelter.  As  yet  no  special  ar- 
rangements for  invalids  exist  at  Biskra. 

Sights,  when  time  is  limited.  On  arrival,  view  from  the  belvedere 
of  the  Royal  Hotel  (p.  281).  1st  Day.  Visit  to  Market  (p.  281)  early, 
then  Villa  de  BAmvent  and  *Old  Biskra  (p.  281);  in  the  afternoon,  ride  or 
drive  to  the  Col  de  Sfa  (p.  282).   2nd  Day.  Excursion  to  Sidi-Okba  (p.*283). 

The  little  town  of  Biskra  (400  ft. ;  pop.  7400,  of  whom  6300 
are  Mohammedans,  iucl.  Old  Biskra)  lies  at  the  S.  base  of  the  low 
Chaine  de  Sfa  (p.  282),  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Oaed  Biskra, 
generally  a  very  poor  stream  below  the  Barrage  (p.  279).  Owing 
to  its  convenient  situation  at  the  end  of  the  E.  Algerian  Sahara 
railway,  and  to  its  fine  climate,  it  has  grown  into  great  favour  of 
late  as  a  winter  resort  and  the  'Nice'  of  Algeria.  The  present  town, 
with  streets  regularly  built  as  in  all  the  modern  Algerian  towns, 
has  sprung  up  only  since  the  French  occupation  of  1844.  The  med- 
iaeval Biskra,  named  after  the  small  Roman  settlement  of  Bescera, 
lay  in  the  midst  of  the  palm-oasis  (p.  281),  on  the  top  and  on  the 
slopes  of  a  low  hill,  where,  after  the  destruction  of  the  town  by 
Sala  Re'is  (1553),  a  Turkish  fort  (kasba)  was  built.  The  natives 
then  settled  anew  in  the  still  existing  seven  villages  of  the  oasis. 

Biskra  is  the  capital  and  administrative  centre  of  the  Zab  ('oasis', 
pi.  ziban),  the  extensive  girdle  of  oases  on  the  S.  fringes  of  the  Monts  du 
Zab  (p.  170)  and  the  Aures  Mis.  In  accordance  with  their  sites  these  oases 
are  named  Zab  Duhraoui  (N.  Zab),  on  the  margin  of  the  Monts  du  Zab,  Zab 
Guebli  (S.  Zab),  on  the  Oued  Djedi  (p.  284),  and  Zab  Chergui  (E.  Zab), 
between  the  Aures  Mts.  and  the  Chott  Blelrir  (p.  284).  The  natives  of  the 
Zab,  who  are  under  an  'agha'  or  chief,  are  mostly  Berbers  with  a  large 
infusion  of  Arabian  and  in  some  cases  Turkish  blood.  Many  of  them,  under 
the  name  of  Biskris,   are  met  with  in   the  coast-towns  as  small  traders. 

The  only  business  street  is  the  Rue  Berths  (PI.  B,  C,  1-3),  in 
the  S.  part  of  which  there  are  a  few  small  European  shops.  It  inter- 
sects the  whole  town  and  connects  the  railway-station  with  the 
strangers'  quarter  on  the  S.  side. 


Old  Biskra.  BISKRA.  44.  Ruutt.      281 

Between  the  Rue  Berthe  and  Fort  St.  Germain  (PI.  B,  C,  1,  2), 
the  nucleus  of  the  town,  built  in  1849-51,  runs  the  Grande  Allee 
past  the  Jardin  Public,  which,  on  its  N.E.  side,  is  adjoined  by  the 
Jardins  de  la  Garnison. 

The  Rue  Berthe  leads  to  the  Avenue  Delacroix  (PI.  C,  3),  the 
favourite  haunt  of  guides  and  hawkers,  where,  at  its  junction  with 
the  Square  Dufourg,  rises  a  bronze  statue  of  Card.  Lavigerie  (PI.  2, 
C,  3;  p.  346),  the  benefactor  of  Biskra. 

The  belvedere  of  the  Royal  Hotel  (p.  279),  92  ft.  high,  re- 
sembling a  minaret  (visitors  kindly  admitted),  commands  an  excel- 
lent *Panorama  of  the  town  and  its  environs,  finest  in  the  early 
morning,  or  towards  sunset,  when  the  Ahmar-Khaddou  ('rosy  cheek'; 
p.  284)  is  bathed  in  a  ruddy  glow. 

The  Casino  Dar-Diaf  (PI.  B,  C,  4;  'house  of  the  guests'), 
built  by  A.  Ballu  (p.  289)  in  the  neo-Moorish  style  in  1892-3,  is 
the  fashionable  evening  resort. 

The  Mairie  (PI.  B,  2),  the  small  Mosque  (PI.  B,  3),  and  other 
public  buildings  are  situated  between  the  Rue  Berthe  and  the  quiet 
Boul.  Carnot  (PI.  A,  B,  2,  3),  which  joins  the  Avenue  Delacroix  at 
the  Casino. 

The  Makche  (PI.  B,  3)  presents  a  busy  and  picturesque  scene, 
especially  in  the  early  morning,  which  will  interest  new-comers. 
The  motley  throng  of  traders,  many  of  them  Mozabites  (p.  216), 
offer  the  art-industrial  products  of  the  Berber  tribes  of  the  Aures 
and  the  Sahara,  besides  Moroccan  wares  and  'Oriental'  articles 
made  in  Europe,  at  unduly  high  prices.  The  fruit  and  vegetable 
market  affords  evidence  of  the  fertility  of  the  oases.  The  Marche 
aux  Bestiaux  is  held  in  the  Boul.  Carnot  on  Mondays. 

Camel  caravans  from  the  Sahara  may  be  seen  at  the  Fondouks  (PI.  A, 
S),  the  inns  of  the  natives  on  the  Route  des  Zibans. 

The  quite  modern  Village- Nigre  (PI.  C,  4;  comp.  p.  181)  is 
very  dirty  and  uninteresting. 

A  few  hundred  yards  to  the  S.  of  the  town,  between  the  Route  de 
Touggourt  and  the  Route  de  Sidi-Okba,  is  the  Villa  de  Benevent 
or  Jardin  London  (PI.  C,  5;  adm.  2  fr.),  a  creation  of  Count  Lan- 
don  (p.  305),  the  beautiful  *Grounds  of  which  are  stocked  with  a 
marvellous  profusion  of  tropical  and  subtropical  plants,  and  afford 
a  delightful  shady  retreat  in  hot  weather. 

The  great  attraction  in  the  nearer  environs  is  *01d  Biskra 
(Vieux-Biskra;  see  inset  Map,  at  p.  279),  with  its  clay-built  oasis- 
villages  (tsar,  pi.  ksurj  inhabited  by  Biskris  (p.  280),  and  its  oasis 
3  M.  long  by  110-550  yds.  wide,  with  some  150,000  date-palms  and 
6000  fruit-trees  (apricots,  figs,  oranges),  besides  corn-fields  and 
small  kitchen-gardens.  The  palms,  being  well  watered  from  the  Bar- 
rage (p.  279),  are  well  grown  and  beautifully  green;  the  dates, 
however,  have  less  flavour  than  those  of  the  Oued  Rhir  (p.  285), 

18* 


282     Route  44.  BISKRA. 

the  Djerid  (p.  386),  and  particularly  those  of  the  Souf  (p.  285). 
The  traveller  may  induce  a  native  (20-30  c.)  to  show  him  one  of  the 
palm-gardens,  or  he  may  be  satisfied  with  a  glimpse  at  them  over 
the  low  mud-walls  or  through  gaps. 

From  the  Villa  de  Benevent  (p.  281)  walkers  follow  the  right 
bank  of  the  Oued  Biskra,  in  the  bed  of  which  stands  the  kubba 
of  Sidi  Zerzour,  to  the  (20  min.)  village  of  M'Cid,  the  eastmost 
in  the  oasis,  with  its  tall  cypress,  130  ft.  high,  and  its  pertinacious 
beggars.  The  lofty  minaret  of  the  small  mosque  of  Sidi  Moussa 
or  Sidi  Match  (muezzin,  30-50  c.)  affords  a  fine  survey  of  the  oasis, 
backed  on  the  N.E.  by  the  distant  and  usually  snow-clad  Jebel 
Chelia  (p.  278),  and  extending  to  the  S.E.  to  Sidi-Okba  (p.  283). 

About  !/4  hr.  to  the  S.W.  of  M'Cid  is  the  picturesque  village  of 
Bab  el-Dharb,  infested  by  begging  children,  where,  at  the  great 
lotus-tree  near  the  two  conduits,  we  enjoy  a  charming  view  of  the 
palm-gardens.  Close  by  is  the  mosque  of  Sidi  Abd  el-Moumen, 
whose  minaret  is  another  famous  point  of  view  (ascent  toilsome). 

Between  Bab  el-Dharb  and  the  tramway-terminus  (p.  279;  Cafe 
Petit  Robinson)  rises  the  Kasha  Hill,  crowned  with  the  old  mud- 
built  Turkish  fort,  now  partly  washed  away  by  rain,  where  the  first 
French  garrison  was  massacred  by  the  natives  in  1844.  View 
limited. 

The  village  of  Bab-Fath,  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Kasba  Hill,  has 
a  picturesque  shrine,  the  marabout  of  Sidi  Lahsen. 

We  return  to  Biskra  by  tramway  on  the  Route  de  Touggourt, 
passing  the  poor  Mohammedan  Cemetery  on  the  left  and  the  Ho- 
pital  Lavigerie  on  the  right;  or  we  may  choose  the  road  (!/2  hr.) 
through  the  village  of  Ras  el-Gueria,  noted  for  the  gaily  coloured 
costumes  of  its  inhabitants. 

For  Carriages  (tariff,  see  p.  279)  the  route  prescribed  for  avoiding 
the  narrow  roads  is  via  M'Cid  to  Bab  el-Dharb,  and  back  by  the  Route 
de  Touggourt  or  via  Ras  el-Gueria.  With  this  excursion  may  be  combined 
a  drive  to  the  small  oasis  of  Cora,  with  most  characteristic  Sahara  sur- 
roundings, and  to  (6V4  M.  from  Biskra)  the  Dunes  a" Oumache,  or  even  to 
the  (10  M.)  Oase  Oumache,  where  the  ksar,  defended  by  ancient  moats, 
contains  many  remains  of  Roman  buildings.  Fine  view  at  the  marabout. 
The  excursion  to  Oumache  takes  at  least  half  a  day.  Provisions  should 
be  taken. 

The  (5  M.)  *Col  de  Sfa,  which  has  long  been  famed  for  its 
view,  is  a  depression  in  the  Chaine  de  Sfa,  between  Jebel  Bou 
Bezel  (1322  ft.)  and  Jebel  el-Mlaga  (1302  ft.),  on  the  shadeless 
road  to  El-Kantara  and  Batna.  We  drive  (by  the  hour,  see  p.  279), 
or  (preferable)  ride  to  the  pass;  in  the  latter  case  we  may  extend 
our  trip  from  the  pass  to  the  (J/4  hr.)  ruinous  Poste  Optique,  whence 
we  survey  the  steppe  of  El-Outaya  (p.  278)  to  the  N.,  and  to  the  S. 
the  endless  undulating  expanse  of  the  yellow  Sahara,  spotted  like 
a  panther's  hide,  as  Strabo  has  described  it,  with  its  green  oases 
(Chetiiia,  Biskra,  Sidi-Okba,  etc.).    Finest  light  towards  sunset. 


SIDI-OKBA.  44.  Route.     283 

The  (5  M.)  Hammam  es-Salahin  (443  ft. ;  'bath  of  the  saints ') 
or  Fontaine-Qiaude,  the  Roman  Ad  Piscinam,  is  most  conveniently 
reached  by  tramway  (p.  279).  The  car  runs  through  the  whole  of 
the  Boul.  Carnot  (p.  281),  turns  to  the  W.  past  a  hill  crowned  with  a 
disused  Optic  Telegraph  (PI.  A,  3),  and  then  passes  the  small  oasis 
of  Beiii- Mora  and  crosses  the  streamlet  Oued  Zemour. 

The  Bath  House  (pens,  with  baths  10  fr.)  attracts  many  visitors 
from  Biskra,  especially  in  summer.  It  lies  in  a  most  dreary  region 
between  Jebel  Bou  Rezel  (p.  282)  and  the  sandy  Jebel  Maouya 
Gvruh.  The  quadrangle,  where  the  surprisingly  copious  salt  and 
sulphur  spring  (115°  Fahr.)  bursts  forth,  is  enclosed  by  cells  for 
Europeans  (IV2  ^r0  and  men's  and  women's  baths  for  the  natives. 
The  roof-terrace  affords  a  good  view  of  the  environs.  About  1  M. 
to  the  N.  is  a  small  mountain-lake  of  volcanic  origin. 

Jebel  Maouya  Gorah,  the  E.  spur  of  Jebel  Matraf,  is  a  good  stand- 
point for  surveying  the  girdle  of  oases  formed  by  the  Zab  Dahraoui  and 
Zab  Guebli  (p.  280),  stretching  to  the  distant  Oued  Djedi  (p.  284).  The 
S.  base  of  this  range,  where  the  building  and  paving  stones  of  Biskra 
are  now  quarried,  is  skirted  by  the  Route  des  Zibans,  much  used  by 
caravans. 

The  Excursion  to  Sidi-Okba  (13  M. ;  diligence,  see  p.  279 ;  carr. 
tariff,  see  p.  279,  but  12-15  fr.  is  usually  accepted)  is  the  favourite 
among  the  longer  trips  from  Biskra.  The  Route  de  Sidi-Okba 
(PI.  C,  4,  5)  fords  the  Biskra  (sometimes  dangerous  after  winter 
rains)  and  skirts  the  small  oases  of  Lalia  and  Filliache.  Between 
these  is  the  Necro])ole,  once  a  Berber  burial-ground. 

For  the  long  drive  through  the  dreary  steppe  at  the  S.  foot  of 
the  Aures  Mts.,  enlivened  only  by  the  begging  children  of  the 
nomads,  we  are  repaid  by  the  verdant  Palm  Oasis  of  Sidi-Okba, 
the  most  fertile  of  the  Zab  Chcrgui  group  (p.  2S0),  watered  by  a 
network  of  conduits  from  the  Oued  el-Abiod  (p.  278). 

The  small  town  of  Sidi-Okba  (144  ft.;  restaurant,  at  the  en- 
trance to  the  town;  pop.  4900),  the  religious  centre  of  the  Zab,  owes 
its  origin  and  its  fame  as  a  resort  of  pilgrims  to  the  tomb  of  Sidi 
Okba  (p.  322),  who  ended  his  victorious  career  in  the  adjacent  oasis 
of  Thouda.  The  now  poor  town,  with  its  mud-built  fortilicati  >ns 
and  houses,  and  its  beggars,  lepers,  and  importunate  guides,  vividly 
recalls  a  mediaeval  Sahara  town. 

On  alighting  we  walk  straight  on,  then  bear  to  the  left,  and 
soon  reach  a  small  square  with  the  Maison  du  Ka'id  and  other 
picturesque  houses.  Turning  here  to  the  left  we  come  to  a  second 
place,  where  on  the  left,  preceded  by  a  colonnade,  rises  the  plain 
Mosque  of  Sidi-Okba,  the  oldest  in  Algeria,  containing  the  tomb 
of  the  saint,  which  is  shown  on  Fridays  only.  The  main  entrance 
to  the  court  of  the  mosque  consists  of  a  carved  *Door  in  the  so- 
called  Berber  style  (10th  cent.).  The  minaret  should  be  ascended 
for  the  sake  of  the  excellent  survey  it  affords  of  the  town  and  the 


284     Route  44.  M'CHOUNECH. 

oasis  (custodian  50  a).  Adjoining  the  mosque  is  the  ZaoiCia,  with 
a  Mohammedan  law-school. 

Passing  through  the  gateway  we  now  follow  the  first  street  on 
the  right  to  the  Market,  with  its  quaint  and  busy  crowd. 

The  steppe  adjoining  Ain-Naga,  14y2  M.  to  the  E.  of  Sidi-Okba,  on 
the  caravan  route  to  Negrine,  which  in  late-Roman  times  was  an  impor- 
tant military  road,  is  a  favourite  resort  in  winter  of  gazelle-stalkers  from 
Biskra.    Mirages  (Fata  Morgana)  are  often  witnessed  here. 

The  ^Excursion  to  M'chounech,  which  is  much  grander  than 
the  last-named,  is  very  fatiguing,  but  will  be  greatly  facilitated  by 
the  opening  of  the  new  road  through  the  Aures  Mts.  (p.  278).  We 
ride  to  the  E.,  across  the  Biskra  ford,  to  (5  M.)  Chetma,  a  small 
palm-oasis  on  the  outskirts  of  the  Aures,  where  the  road  at  present 
ends.  After  a  short  rest  in  the  village  (ksar),  with  its  mud-built 
houses,  or  beside  the  adjoining  springs,  we  proceed  via  (lOt1^  M.) 
Droh  to  (14  M.)  El-Habel  (778  ft.),  where  we  reach  the  deep-set 
valley  of  the  Oued  el-Abiod  (p.  278).  We  then  ascend  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  stream  to  (19  M.)  M'ckounech.  (1083  ft. ;  quarters 
at  the  sheikh's),  a  beautiful  palm-oasis  with  1300  inhab.,  at  the 
foot  of  the  Ahmar-Khaddou  (6315  ft.). 

The  hill  on  which  the  ksar  stands  affords  a  very  curious  and 
striking  view  of  the  neighbouring  *Ravines  (accessible  in  dry 
weather  only)  and  the  upper  course  of  the  stream  with  its  oases, 
as  far  as  Baniane;  but  we  may  obtain  a  still  grander  view  by  rid- 
ing to  the  (24  M.)  Poste  Optique  (3691  ft.),  on  the  S.  margin  of 
the  Ahmar-Khaddon,  whence  the  most  impressive  desert  panorama 
stretches  as  far  as  the  Chott  Melrir  (see  below).  The  summit  of 
the  mountain  may  be  gained  in  4-5  hrs.  more,  but  few  travellers 
will  care  to  face  the  toilsome  ascent. 

From  Biskra  to  Branis,  Djemmorah,  Beni-Ferah,  and  El-Kantara, 
see  p.  278;  to  the  Gorges  de  Tilatou,  see  p.  277. 

Hardy  and  well-equipped  (pp.  173,  174)  travellers  will  he  repaid  hy  the 
interesting  Sahara  Route  to  Touggocrt  (127  M. ;  'courrier  postal',  open 
omnibus  with  awning,  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  and  Frid.  at  3  a.m.,  in  28  hrs., 
excl.  10  hrs.'  halt  for  the  night  at  M'rai'er;  fare  40  f r. ;  carr.  from  the 
hirers  Viallard  or  Tourenq,  300-400  fr. ;  a  driver  that  speaks  French  should 
he  asked  for).  A  railway  from  Biskra  to  Touggourt  is  now  under  con- 
struction.—  The  Route  de  Touggourt  leads  to  the  S.E.  from  Old  Biskra 
(p.  281)  through  the  steppe  to  (19  M.)  Bordj  Sadda  (85  ft.),  in  the  plain 
of  the  Oued  JJjedi  (coinp.  p.  215),  and  thence  to  the  S.  to  (32Vz  M.)  Bordj 
Chegga,  to  the  W.  of  the  Chott  Melrir  (95  ft.  below  the  sea-level),  the 
largest  salt-lake  in  Algeria.  45'/.,,  M.  Bir  Sethil,  on  the  Oued  Itel,  across 
the  bed  of  which,  generally  dry,  the  road  is  carried  by  an  embankment 
over  100  yds.  long,  built  of  blocks  of  gypsum.  50  M.  Kef  ed-Door  (374  ft.), 
a  plateau  affording  tine  views,  with  a  Poste  Optique  communicating  with 
Ahmar-Khaddou  (see  above),  and  said  to  be  the  southmost  point  reached 
by  Sidi  Okba  (p.  322)  in  the  course  of  his  campaigns.  63'/*  M.  Ourir,  a 
small  oasis  near  the  Chott  Merouan,  the  S.  arm  of  Uhott  Melrir,  contains 
the  kubba  of  Sidi  Makfl,  a  favourite  resort  of  pilgrims. 

69  M.  M'raier  or  Merayer  (13  ft.  below  sea  -  level ;  Caravansdrail, 
R.  2-3,  B.  i/2,  D.  3'/2  fr. ;  pop.  1700),  a  thriving  but  fever-haunted  village, 
with  a  luxuriant  palm-oasis  watered  by  artesian  wells. 


EL-OUED.  44.  Route.     285 

We  next  come  to  the  region  of  the  Oued  Rhir,  also  malarious, 
with  the  largest  girdle  of  oases  in  Algeria.  These  oases,  artificially 
irrigated  under  the  French  regime  by  the  sinking  of  numerous  very  costly 
artesian  wells,  have  gained  immensely  in  fertility,  and  their  palms  (about 
0  supply  the  European  markets  with  dates  of  the  clear  or  pale 
variety  (deglet  en-niir).  Passing  the  posting-stations  of  Sidi-Khelil  and 
El-Berd  we  come  to  Ourlana  (69  ft.;  pop.  4000),  on  the  so-called  Sea 
of  Ourlana,  a  chain  of  lakes  where  the  water  of  the  Oued  Rhir  comes 
to  the  surface.  109l/2  M.  Djemad  (Caravanserail,  R.  3,  B.  3/4,  D.  3  fr., 
quite  good),  lies  near  the  oasis  of  Tigitedidin,  with  its  pretty  lake  in  a 
palm-grove.  Then  Tamerna,  with  1(100  inhab.,  and  Sidi-Rached.  The 
swarthy  complexion  of  the  natives,  mostly  Rouaras,  akin  to  the  Harratin 
(p.  94),  now  indicates  that  we  are  nearing  the  Sudan. 

127  M.  Touggourt  or  Tougourt  (259  ft.;  Hot.  de  l'Oasis,  Grande 
Place,  near  the  Bureau  Arabe,  R.  3,  D.  3,  pens.  12>/2  fr- ;  mule  and  atten- 
dant 5  fr.  per  day;  pop.  7100),  a  rapidly  increasing  little  town,  with  a 
great  Friday  market,  is  important  as  the  junction  of  the  caravan-routes 
to  the  Mzab  (p.  216),  Ouargla  (or  Wargla),  and  the  Souf  (see  below).  New 
Touggourt  (T.  el-Djedida)  lies  at  the  foot  of  a  hill  crowned  with  the  ruins 
of  Old  Touggourt  (T.  el-Kliedima).  The  distinguishing  features  of  the  town 
are  two  tall  square  towers,  a  minaret,  and  the  clock-tower  of  the  Kasba. 
The  new  gypsum-built  houses,  some  of  them  in  several  stories,  produce 
a  striking  effect.  The  inhabitants  —  Rouaras,  many  Mozabites  (p.  216), 
and  Jews  and  negroes  who  have  embraced  Islam  —  live  in  separate  quarters 
(zgag)  and  in  large  suburbs.  Their  home-industries,  especially  weaving 
and  carpet-making,  are  thriving.  It  is  very  interesting  to  ride  through 
the  *Oaais,  or  to  make  an  excursion  to  the  S.  to  the  little  oasis  town  of 
(8H.)  Ti •niacin  and  the  (9>/2  M.)  Zaou'ia  of  Tamelhat,  one  of  the  most 
influential  monasteries  in  the  Sahara,  with  a  superb  *Mosque. 

In  order  to  avoid  the  long  route  back  to  Biskra,  and  at  the  same 
time  to  see  more  of  the  Sahara,  we  may  ride  from  Touggourt  via  El-Oued, 
to  the  X.K..  in  4-5  days  direct  to  Nefta  (p.  387;  trotting-camel  to  El-Oued 
10,  and  fur  the  'Saharien'  a  fee  of  3  fr.  per  day;  conip.  also  p.  174).  The 
caravan-route,  marked  only  by  pyramidal  signals,  crosses  the  great  dunes 
of  the  Souf,  where  'desert-roses'  (p.  270)  abound,  one  of  the  N.  offshoots 
of  the  Erg  Oriental,  as  the  great  E.  desert  of  the  Sahara  is  called.  The 
only  houses  of  call  are  (12i/2  M.)  Bordj  Mguitla,  (24  M.)  Bordj  Mouiat 
Ferdjana,  and  (4 1'/-_-  M-)  Bordj  Mouiat  el-Kaid.  The  first  village  in  the 
Souf  is  (53  M.)  Oi/rmes. 

61Va  M>  El-Oued  (263  ft. ;  good  quarters  at  the  house  of  the  merchant 
Sagnier"  R.  3,  dej.  or  D.  4ll4  f r. ;  pop.  7400),  the  interesting  capital  of 
the  Souf,  with  windowless  houses  covered  with  barrel-vaulting  and  small 
domes,  is  best  viewed  from  the  minaret  or  from  the  dune  on  the  N.  side. 
El-Oued  and  particularly  the  neighbouring  oasis  of  Guemar  are  famed  for 
their  weaving;  their  wares  are  sent  by  the  caravan-route  to  the  S.E.  via 
Bir  er-Ressof  (Beresof)  to  Ghadames  in  Tripolitania. 

The  *Oases  of  the  Souf,  containing  about  180,000  palm-trees,  have 
quite  a  different  system  of  cultivation  from  all  others  in  Barbary.  The 
remarkably  thick  and  long-leaved  palms  stand  in  funnel-shaped  hollows 
(entonnoirs,  Arabic  ritan),  and  are  protected  against  sand-drift  by  pali- 
sades of  palm-twigs.  The  irrigation  is  provided  by  surface-water  collected 
in  wells,  from  which  the  water  is  raised  by  means  of  long  draw-beams. 
The  dates,  owing  to  the  peculiar  mode  of  culture  and  the  great  heat  of 
the  sun,  are  noted  for  their  sweetness  and  fine  flavour.  They  are  usually 
exported  to  Europe  by  way  of  S.  Tunis. 

Beyond  (71'/2  M.)  Debila,  where  the  high  dunes  end,  we  ride  to  the 
Tunisian  frontier  across  the  pastures  of  the  nomadic  trihes,  watered  by 
artesian  wells.  A  delightful  scene  is  presented  by  the  watering  of  the 
cattle,  driven  in  from  every  direction,  and  indefatigably  supplied  by  the 
swarthy  herdsmen. 


286     Route  4B.  LAMBESE.  From  Batna 

Beyond  Choucht  el-Thovdi  and  Bir  el-Asli,  the  first  stages  in  Tunisia, 
we  traverse  the  dreary  steppe  to  the  N.W.  end  of  the  Chott  Djerid  (p.  386), 
through  which  we  ride  for  a  short  way  on  the  Trik  Donaria.  137  M. 
Nefta  (p.  887),  where  we  must  announce  our  arrival  at  the  custom-house. — 
From  Nefta  via  Toseur  to  Metlaoui  (and  Gafsa),  see  pp.  387,  886. 


45.  From  Batna  via  Lambese  to  Timgad. 

Road,  to  Lambese  7  M.  (diligence  four  times  daily,  in  1  hr.),  to  Timgad 
23'/2  M.—  The  diligence  from  Batna  to  (67  M.)  Khenchela  (p.  273),  starting 
at  4  a.m.,  reaches  at  8  a.m.,  beyond  the  35th  kilometre-stone  (22  M.),  the 
point  where  the  Timgad  road  diverges.  One  may  therefore  alight  there 
and  walk  in  less  than  '/.,  hr.  to  Timgad.  Returning  from  Khenchela  the 
diligence  passes  this  point  about  noon.  During  the  season  motor-omnibuses 
of  the  Hot.  dcs  Etrangers  run  from  Batna  to  Lambese  and  Timgad  (75  fr. 
for  the  whole  vehicle;  single  seat  25  fr.).  A  motor-omnibus  of  the  Hot. 
Meille  at  Timgad  also  conveys  travellers  from  the  station  at  Batna  to 
Timgad  and  back  (20  fr.  each  person;  best  to  order  beforehand).  Carriages 
(for  one  day  20-30,  for  two  days  30-40  fr.)  may  be  had  at  the  hotels  or 
through  the  Rail.  Restauiant.  The  fares  are  rather  lower  when  arranged 
with  the  drivers  direct.    Bicycles  in  the  Square  at  Batna,  5  fr.  per  day. 

If  pressed  for  time  we  may  take  the  evening  train  from  Constantine 
to  Batna,  visit  Lambese  and  Timgad  next  day,  and  go  on  to  Biskra  in 
the  afternoon  by  train.  Those  who  reach  Batna  from  Biskra  or  El- 
Kantara  about  noon  may  take  lunch  at  the  station,  go  on  to  Lambese, 
staying  there  for  V/r2  hrs.,  and  thence  to  Timgad,  whence  they  may  re- 
turn next  morning  to  Batna  in  time  for  the  afternoon  train  to  Constantine. 

Batna,  see  p.  275.  The  road  leaves  the  town  by  the  Quartier 
Militaire  and  ascends  slightly,  to  the  S.E.,  through  the  dreary 
upland  plain,  where  it  is  sometimes  bitterly  cold  in  winter,  and 
along  the  N.  margin  of  the  Aitres  Mts.  (p.  278).  As  we  near  the 
hill-region  of  Lambese  we  sight  the  'Prsetorium'  in  the  distance. 

7  M.  Lambese  or  Lambessa  (3875  ft.;  quarters  at  the  poor 
cafes  only),  a  village  with  a  large  Peniteneier,  or  Maison  Centrale 
de  Correction,  was  founded  in  1848  as  a  prison  for  political  offenders 
and  partly  built  out  of  the  ruins  of  the  Roman  Lambaesis. 

Lambresis  was  the  headquarters  of  the  famous  Third  Legion,  the 
nucleus  of  the  Roman  forces  in  Numidia,  transferred  hither  about  100 
A.D.  from  Tebessa  (p.  315)  for  the  defence  of  the  chief  Aures  passes,  those 
to  the  Oued  Abdi  and  the  Oued  el-Abiod  (p.  278).  Their  oldest  camp, 
recently  discovered,  lay  l'/4  M.  to  the  W.  of  Lambese;  the  newer  camp, 
mentioned  as  early  as  146  A.  D.,  is  now  partly  built  over  by  the  peni- 
tentiary and  its  garden.  On  a  hill  rising  steeply  from  the  plain,  IV4  M. 
to  the  S.  of  the  later  camp,  lay  a  civilian  settlement  (candbae),  occupied 
at  first  by  traders,  artisans,  and  the  soldiers'  families,  but  erected  into 
a  municipium  under  Marcus  Aurelius  (161-180).  This  became  the  seat  of 
the  governor  of  Numidia  and  for  a  short  time  prospered.  But  the  punish- 
ment of  the  Third  Legion  by  Gordian  III.  (238),  who  removed  it  to  the 
Rhine  for  twenty-five  years,  the  earthquake  of  268,  the  extension  of  the 
military  frontier'  under  Diocletian  (284-305)  to  the  S.  border  of  the  Sahara 
Atlas,  and  the  transference,  under  Constantine  the  Great,  of  the  governor's 
seat  to  Cirta  (p.  298)  were  disasters  from  which  Lambaesis  never  recovered, 
so  that  by  the  5th  cent,  it  was  completely  abandoned. 

The  Roman  *Camp,  one  of  the  best-preserved  in  existence,  'the 


to  Timgad.  LAMBESE.  *«•  Route.     287 

classic  ruin  of  military  occupation'  as  it  has  been  called,  forms  a 
rectangle  of  547  by  460  yds.,  with  the  usual  rounded  corners,  and 
four  gates,  between  which  ran  the  two  main  streets,  the  Cardo  and 
the  Decumanus. 

"We  alight  at  the  ancient  Porta  Sinistra,  the  W.  gate.  Between 
this  and  the  'Pratorium'  (see  below)  recent  excavations  have  un- 
earthed remains  of  the  Decumanus  and  its  three  N.  side-streets,  all 
once  flanked  with  colonnades,  and  the  foundations  of  the  barracks 
built  of  concrete  (p.  290).  The  Porta  Praetoria,  the  N.  gate,  at 
the  end  of  the  well-paved  Cardo,  with  its  two  passages  and  the  sub- 
structures of  its  two  towers,  is  particularly  well  preserved.  Near 
it,  adjoining  the  relics  of  the  camp-wall,  are  the  ruins  of  several 
other  towers. 

At  the  intersection  of  the  Decumanus  and  the  Cardo,  156  yds. 
from  the  N.  gate,  rises  the  so-called  **Praetorium,  probably  rebuilt 
in  208,  the  monumental  entrance-gateway  of  the  residence  of  the 
legate  (prtctorium  or  principia),  the  only  intact  Roman  building 
of  the  kind  and  the  grandest  Roman  ruin  in  Algeria.  This  great 
rectangular  pile  of  solid  masonry  in  two  stories,  33'/2  by  25  yds. 
in  area  and  49  ft.  in  height,  is  adorned  outside  with  Corinthian 
columns  on  high  pedestals  and  with  Corinthian  pilasters.  The  four 
great  round-arched  passages,  of  which  the  side  and  end  ones  are 
flanked,  respectively,  by  three  and  two  smaller  archways,  open  into 
a  central  space,  which,  to  judge  from  the  four  large  bases  of  pillars, 
was  once  probably  furnished  with  a  roof  and  lighted  by  the  four 
round-arched  windows  in  the  upper  story. 

Of  the  so-called  Forum,  the  chief  court  of  the  Prsetorium,  there  still 
exist  remains  of  the  colonnade  and  a  number  of  side-chambers,  once  ar- 
mouries. (In  the  so-called  arsenal  at  the  N.W.  angle  many  cannon-balls 
and  other  missiles  have  been  found.)  To  the  S.  of  the  forum  is  the 
Posticitm,  with  its  offices  and  Scholae,  the  club-rooms  of  the  officers  and 
sergeants  (now  ticketed),  and  the  Chapel  for  the  Mags  and  insignia  of  the 
Legion,  recognizable  by  its  large  niche.  The  collars  served  as  the  Treasury. 

The  Thermes  du  Camp,  the  ancient  baths,  to  the  S.E.  of  the 
Praetorium,  show  remains  of  the  heating  apparatus  (comp.  p.  294). 

From  the  E.  gate,  once  the  Porta  Dextra,  ran  the  road  to 
Verecunda  (p.  289)  and  Timgad  and  the  ViaSeptimiana  to  the  town- 
hill,  l1/*  M.  distant.  In  the  open  ground  outside  of  it  rises  the 
ruinous  single  Arch  of  Commodus.  Near  this  is  the  Amphitheatre, 
whose  stones  were  used  in  building  the  penitentiary  (p.  286). 

We  now  drive  to  the  S.  from  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  camp,  where 
carriages  usually  wait,  to  the  Village.  At  the  Maine,  mainly  built 
with  the  stones  of  the  Septizonium,  a  nymplueum  or  fountain,  we 
find  the  museum  attendant  (fee  1j2  fr.),  who  if  desired  will  show  also 
the  town-hill  (fee). 

The  small  Musee  Municipal,  near  the  church,  comprises,  under 
a  shed,  some  mediocre  statues  from  the  temple  of  ^Esculapius  and 


288     Route  45.  LAMBESE.  from  Batna 

splendid  *Mosaics  found  in  1905  (one  with  an  inscription  by  a 
Greek  artist),  missiles,  etc.  The  garden  contains  architectural 
fragments,  inscriptions,  etc. 

A  road  leads  from  the  S.  end  of  the  village  to  the  Town  Hill, 
where  excavators  have  not  as  yet  discovered  even  the  forum. 

Near  the  (x/4  hr.)  A'in-Drinn,  which  now  supplies  the  village 
with  drinking-water,  are  the  almost  unrecognizable  remains  of  the 
Temple  of  Neptune.  From  this  poiut  we  walk  to  the  N.E.  past 
the  ruins  of  the  Aqueduct  and  the  foundations  of  four  Dwelling 
Houses  to  (10  min.)  the  chief  temples. 

The  *Tcmple  of  JEsculapius,  at  the  W.  end  of  the  temple  area, 
a  curiously  planned  edifice  dating  from  the  time  of  Marcus  Aurelius, 
consists  of  a  cella,  well-preserved  in  its  foundations,  with  a  large 
semicircular  niche  for  the  statues  of  iEsculapius  and  Salus  (or 
Hygiea),  and  of  a  semicircular  terrace  (concave  inwards),  where  a 
square  basement  in  front  bore  a  Doric  portico,  which  collapsed  in 
1852.  In  front  of  the  flight  of  six  steps  lie  remains  of  the  architrave, 
bearing  the  dedicatory  inscription  of  the  temple.  Colonnades  con- 
nected the  temple  with  two  semicircular  projections,  flanking  the 
terrace,  on  which  stood  the  sediculae  or  chapels  of  Jupiter  Valens  and 
Silvanus.  Behind  the  cella  are  vestiges  of  the  Thermae  connected 
with  the  temple. 

A  straight  ancient  road  leads  to  the  S.E.  from  the  temple  of 
yEsculapius  to  the  capitol,  the  distinctive  feature  of  every  Soman 
colony.  On  the  left  lie  the  substructures  of  Chapels  dedicated  to 
eight  different  gods  (about  200  A.  D.),  all  rectangular  and  each 
with  its  niche,  usually  rounded. 

The  *Capitol,  the  largest  temple  of  Lambcesis,  dedicated  to  the 
cult  of  Jupiter,  Juno,  and  Minerva,  adjoins  the  W.  wall  of  the  an- 
cient temple-court,  a  quadrangle  of  66  by  60  yds.,  of  whose  colon- 
nades eight  columns  only  survive.  A  flight  of  twenty  steps,  most  of 
which  also  have  disappeared,  ascended  to  the  temple  portico,  with 
eight  Corinthian  columns  in  front  and  four  at  the  back.  The  cella,  still 
fairly  preserved,  221/2  by  lS1^  yds.,  consists,  exceptionally,  of  only 
two  chambers,  separated  by  a  partition,  with  square  niches  for  the 
sacred  images.  On  the  temple  steps  lie  fragments  of  the  dedicatory 
inscription  of  the  'Bespublica  Lambsesis'. 

The  capitol  is  adjoined  on  the  E.  bv  the  court  of  a  third  Temple, 
82  by  38  yds. 

"We  now  follow  the  road  on  the  hill  to  the  E.,  leaving  on  the 
left  the  so-called  Bains  des  Chasseurs,  and  in  3  min.  reach  the 
ruins  of  a  Triumphal  Arch  with  three  gateways,  on  the  old  road 
to  Verecunda  (p.  289),  and  3  min.  farther  a  smaller  Archway,  to 
which  point  carriages  should  be  ordered.  We  then  drive  back  to 
the  plain,  to  the  N.W.,  by  the  Bertouli  road,  skirting  the  town-hill. 


to  Ttmgad.  TIMGAD.  *&■  Route.     289 

About  halfway  between  this  road  and  the  highroad  we  pass 
the  ruins  of  a  building  once  erroneously  called  the  Palais  du  Legal, 
and  those  of  Latrinae.  On  the  ancient  Via  Septimiana  (p.  287), 
about  a  hundred  yards  farther,  rises  the  *Arch  of  Sejytimius 
Severua,  with  its  three  passages,  bereft  of  its  columns  and  atlica. 

The  High  Road  ascends  past  the  remains  (on  the  left)  of  a 
Roman  Burial  Ground,  with  the  substructures  of  an  Early 
Christian  Chapel,  under  the  ciborium  altar  of  which  are  two 
martyrs'  tombs.  After  a  long  bend  to  the  N.  it  reaches  (9M.  from 
Batna)  Markouna  (about  4260  ft.),  a  country-house  surrounded 
by  fruit-trees,  cypresses,  and  pines,  not  far  from  the  site  of  the 
little  Roman  town  of  Verecunda. 

Beyond  Markouna,  just  before  the  new  road  to  Medina  (and 
Biskra;  see  p.  278)  diverges,  rises  the  Arch  of  Marcus  Awrelius 
(172  A.  D.).  A  little  way  to  the  S."W.,  on  the  old  Roman  road 
coming  from  the  town-hill  of  Lambsesis,  stands  another  Archway, 
dedicated  to  the  same  emperor  in  162. 

As  the  road  now  descends  to  the  N.E.  into  the  dreary  valley 
of  the  Oued  Merien,  we  obtain  on  the  right,  beyond  the  16th  kilo- 
metre-stone (10  M.),  a  fine  view  of  the  crest  of  the  Kef  Mahmel 
(p.  278),  which  is  snow-clad  in  winter.  Beyond  the  24th  kilometre- 
stone  (15  M.)  we  overlook  a  great  part  of  the  Aures  Mts.  with  Jebel 
Ohelia  (p.  278).    On  the  left  is  Jebel  Taguertine  (4511  ft.). 

After  the  27th  kilometre-stone  (17  M.)  we  sight,  far  to  the 
S.E.,  at  the  foot  of  the  spurs  of  the  Aures,  the  ruins  of  Timgad. 
where  the  two  tall  columns  of  the  capitol  gradually  grow  more 
conspicuous.  The  road  to  (23'/2  M.  from  Batna)  Timgad,  which 
diverges  to  the  right  beyond  the  35th  kilometre-stone  (2\ll2N..), 
crosses  the  Oued  Merien  and  ends  on  the  N.  side  of  the  ruins. 


Timgad.  —  Hotet,.  H6td  MeiUe}  t  min.  to  the  N.  of  the  ruins, 
opposite  the  Berber  market  (Thurs.),  with  a  tine  view  of  the  Aures  Sits., 
K.  3-4,  B.  l-l'/2,  dej.  S1/.,,  D.  4  fr.,  plain  but  well  spoken  of. 

The  Ruins  may  he  visited  at  any  time.  The  chief  sights,  named  in 
the  text  in  heavy  type,  may  be  cursorily  seen  within  2-3  hrs.  For  closer 
study  A.  Ballu's  Guide  Illustre'  de  Timgad  (at  book-shops  2V-2-  3>/2  fr.  at 
the  Agencc,  p.  291,  where  photographs  and  picture  post-cards  also  are 
sold)  is  valuable.  Information  as  to  recent  excavations  may  be  obtained 
from  the  inspector  M.  Barry.  —  Comp.  also  'Carthage,  Timgad,  Tebessa', 
by  R.  Cagnat  (Paris,  1909). 

Timgad  (3520  ft.),  known  by  the  Berber  name  of  Thamngadi 
in  the  late-Roman  period  and  one  of  the  must  thriving  towns  in 
the  E.  Algerian  highlands,  dates  from  100  A. D.,  when  the  legate 
P.  Munatius  Gallus,  commander  of  the  Third  Legion  (p.  286),  was 
ordered  by  Trajan  to  found  the  Colonia  Marciana  Trajana 
Thamngadi ,  probably  about  the  same  time  as  Lambaesis,  as  the 
key  of  the  Foum  Ksantina  (p.  296).    The  town  saw  its  prime  in  the 


290     Route  45.  TJMGAD.  History. 

second  half  of  the  2nd  and  in  the  3rd  cent.,  hut  in  the  4th  cent., 
like  Bagai  (p.  273),  it  was  a  centre  of  the  Donatist  movement  and 
suffered  severely  in  the  wars  of  the  period.  After  fruitless  attempts 
by  the  Vandals  to  revive  it,  Thamugadi  was  destroyed  by  the 
hostile  Berber  tribes  of  the  Aures  Mts.  in  535.  Having  been  finally 
abandoned  at  the  close  of  the  Byzantine  domination,  the  ruins  of 
the  town,  with  the  exception  of  Trajan's  Arch,  were  gradually  buried 
under  the  deposits  of  torrents,  and  for  twelve  centuries  the  place 
was  consigned  to  complete  oblivion. 

The  excavations  begun  by  the  French  government  in  1880,  and 
recently  conducted  by  the  architect  A.  Ballu,  have  brought  to  light 
the  most  important  parts  of  the  town,  including  the  Forum,  two 
Markets,  the  Capitol,  and  no  less  than  eleven  Thermse.  While  the 
private  houses  are  mostly  unpretending  and  very  inferior  to  those 
of  Pompeii,  the  public  buildings  afford  most  striking  evidence  of 
the  ancient  prosperity  of  this  remote  Roman  provincial  town. 

The  oldest  town,  laid  out  as  a  square  camp  (comp.  p.  286)  of  384  yds. 
each  way,  in  conformity  with  its  original  destination  as  a  frontier-fortress, 
has  four  central  gates,  between  which  ran  the  two  main  streets,  the  Cardo 
Maximus  and  the  Dccumanus  Maximus,  intersecting  each  other  at  right 
angles.  The  'Cardo  Maximus  Nord'  opens  into  the  Decumanus  at  the 
Forum,  where  it  stops  owing  to  the  unevenness  of  the  soil.  Some  90  yds. 
farther 'to  the  W.,  however,  the  'Cardo  Maximus  Slid'  leads  out  of  the 
Decumanus.  The  rapid  increase  of  the  population,  especially  on  the  E. 
and  W.  sides,  on  the  busy  roads  to  Tebessa  (p.  315)  and  Lamboesis,  led 
as  early  as  the  2nd  cent,  to  the  construction  or  extensive  new  streets  on 
a  less  regular  plan.  By  the  5th  cent,  the  population,  which  had  greatly 
declined,  withdrew  from  the  suburbs  into  the  ancient  walled  precincts, 
which  by  this  time  had  been  much  built  over  at  places. 

The  main  streets  are  bordered  with  Doric  colonnades  and  paved  with 
bluish  limestone  slabs;  the  smaller  streets  have  sandstone  pavement. 
The  waggon-ruts  are  deep,  especially  in  the  Decumanus  Maximus,  and 
are  slightly  farther  apart  than  at  Pompeii  (4  ft.  3  in.  and  4  ft.  1  in.). 
The  excellent  drainage-system  is  now  utilized  anew,  as  may  be  seen 
from  the  gutters  at  the  street-corners. 

The  usual  building  material  was  concrete  (opus  incertum,  small 
stones  mixed  with  mortar),  often  faced  with  brick,  or  stone-framework 
(the  interstices  being  filled  with  brick  or  rubble-work).  The  private  houses 
usually  occupy  an  Insula,  as  the  square  block  enclosed  by  four  streets 
was  called.  The  shops  (tabernae)  in  the  main  streets  were  all  entered 
from  the  street,  except  when  the  trader  lived  in  the  same  house.  As  a 
rule  the  houses,  like  modern  Moorish  houses,  have  their  backs  turned  to 
the  street,  looking  into  an  arcaded  court  (peristyle)  in  Oriental  fashion, 
instead  of  opening  into  a  roofed  atrium  in  the  ancient  Roman  style. 

"We  begin  our  walk  at  the  N.  end  of  the  town.  On  the  right, 
just  outside  the  old  town-wall,  lie  the — 

*  Grands  Thernies  du  Nord  (PI.  D,  1),  the  largest  Roman 
baths  in  N.  Africa.  They  form  a  rectangle  of  SS1^  by  70y2  yds., 
and  contain  thirty-five  different  chambers,  all  symmetrically  con- 
structed like  others  of  the  later  Roman  period.  Parts  of  the  walls 
are  still  23  ft.  in  height. 

A  flight  of  ten  steps  on  the  E.  side  of  the  building  leads  to  the 
Vestibulum,  the  main  entrance  to  the  baths.     The  adjoining  chamber  on 


Agencc-Muste.  T1MGAD.  45-  Route.     291 

the  left  opens  on  to  a  suite  of  three  spacious  halls.  The  two  outer  ones 
were  probably  the  Palaestra  for  gymnastics  and  games.  In  the  corner, 
obliquely  opposite  the  entrance-wall,  is  a  kind  of  shaft  or  passage  lead- 
ing to  the  Apodyterinm  (undressing  and  dressing  room).  The  central 
hull  is  the  largest  Frigidarium,  containing  three  basins  (piscinae) .  The 
chamber  on  the  S.  side,  between  the  two  smaller  basins,  served  as  a 
passage  to  the  Tepidarimn,  for  hot-air  baths  and  massage.  Adjoining 
the  tepidarium  on  the  S.  is  the  largest  Caldarimn,  with  three  hot-water 
basins  (alvei).  Two  side-rooms  were  the  Laconica  or  sweating-baths. 
Adjacent  to  them  were  two  smaller  Caldaria,  to  the  N.  of  which,  next 
to  the  palaastra,  were  two  other  Tepidaria.  The  two  rooms  at  the  S.E. 
and  S.W.  comers  of  the  baths,  each  with  an  ante-room  (apodyterium  ?) 
and  large  semicircular  niche,  are  supposed  to  have  been  Frigidaria. — 
As  to  Heating  Apparatus,  comp.  p.  294. 

A  little  to  the  left  of  the  main  entrance  to  these  Therms  is  the 
quaint  Mannikin  Fountain  (PI.  D,  1),  restored  from  ancient 
fragments. 

The  insignificant  building  on  the  E.  side  of  the  road  is  the 
Agence-Musee  (PI.  D,  E,  1),  containing  the  offices  of  the  directors 
of  the  excavations  and  a  collection  of  objects  found  at  Timgad. 
These,  however,  with  the  exception  of  some  mosaics,  the  chief 
adornment  of  the  African-Roman- dwelling,  show  a  provincial  and 
mechanical  style  of  art. 

Along  the  outside  walls  are  ranged  the  larger  sculptures,  a  great  stone 
vase,  fragments  of  buildings,  and  Saturn  stelaa. 

The  Entrance  Room  (I)  contains  pottery,  including  numerous  lamps. — 
Room  II.  Smaller  fragments  of  sculpture,  bronze  implements,  etc.  — 
Rooms  III  &  IV.  Desk-cases  containing  the  most  valuable  finds,  notably 
glass,  clay-vases,  small  implements  in  bronze  and  hone.  Under  the 
cases  are  water-pipes,  etc.  —  Against  the  walls  are  placed  mosaics:  in 
R.  Ill,  Diana  ana  Actaeon,  with  the  name  of  the  artist  (Selius),  and 
Neptune  in  a  quadriga;  in  R.  IV,  Jupiter  and  Antiopo  (inscription, 
•FiladelSs  vita'),  and  Amphitrite  on  a  marine  centaur. 

We  now  enter  the  oldest  part  of  the  town  by  the  central  Porte 
du  Nord  (PI.  D,  1),  13'/4  by  53/4  yds.,  preserved  only  in  its  lower 
parts.  Between  the  pillars  of  the  gateway,  once  enriched  with 
Corinthian  half-columns  and  pilasters,  are  the  ancient  guard-rooms. 
On  the  floor  are  relics  of  an  inscription  of  149  A.D.,  which  names 
Antoninus  Pius  as  the  restorer  (or  finisher)  of  the  gateway. 

The  first  building  on  the  left  side  of  the  Cardo  Maximus 
Nord,  a  street  ascending  steeply  for  185  yds.,  is  that  of  the  Petits 
Thermes  du  Nord  (PI.  E,  1).  On  the  left,  beyond  the  fourth  side- 
street,  is  the  — 

*Library  (PI.  E,  2),  one  of  the  most  curious  buildings  in  the 
town,  resembling  the  library  in  the  forum  of  Pompeii,  which  was 
once  supposed  to  be  a  shrine  of  the  Lares.  The  building  is  preceded 
by  an  open  colonnade,  with  two  small  chambers  on  eacli  side.  Two 
side-doors  lead  into  the  rectangular  book-rooms,  while  the  central 
door,  as  in  all  antique  libraries,  opens  into  a  kind  of  sanctuary, 
with  a  large  central  niche  flanked  by  four  recesses  on  each  side 
(for  the  sacred  images),  and  approached  by  a  basement  in  three 
steps,  with  ornamental  columns. 


292     Route  45.  TIMGAD.  Forum. 

The  Cardo  Maximus  Nord  leads  to  the  main  entrance  to  the 
Forum  (see  below)  in  the  Decumanus  Maximus,  the  chief  thorough- 
fare of  the  town.  To  the  right,  at  the  W.  end  of  the  latter,  rises 
Trajan's  Arch  (p.  295).  We  descend  to  the  left.  On  the  left,  near 
the  old  E.  gate  of  the  inner  town,  are  the  G-rands  Thermes  de 
I'Esl  (PI.  F,  2),  whose  tepidarium  contains  remains  of  mosaic  pave- 
ment. We  turn  back  here,  and  in  the  third  S.  street  off  the  Decu- 
manus Maximus  we  come  to  the  Petits  Thermes  de  I' Est  (PI.  F,  2), 
where  two  of  the  rooms  contain  restored  marble  benches. 

Next,  on  the  same  side  of  the  Decumanus,  comes  the  *Marche 
de  l'Est  or  East  Macellum  (PI.  E,  F,  2),  the  smaller  town-market, 
very  curiously  planned. 

A  flight  of  eight  steps  ascends  to  a  semicircular  vestibule  occupying 
the  middle  of  a  platform  30  yds.  wide  and  2>/4  yds.  deep,  on  to  the  right 
and  on  to  the  left  sides  of  which  open  six  small  shops,  three  of  them 
facing  the  street  and  three  the  courtyard.  The  latter,  really  a  double 
court,  consists  of  two  segments  of  a  circle  with  a  triangular  fountain 
at  their  intersection.  Adjacent,  along  the  back-wall,  right  and  left,  are 
five  stalls  with  the  old  stone  counters.  In  the  centre  of  each  half-court 
is  an  open  semicircular  colonnade  with  water-runlets. 

Almost  immediately  to  the  W.  of  the  market-hall,  a  later  ad- 
dition, is  the  Maison  aux  Jardinieres  (PL  4;  E,  2),  a  private 
house  with  a  fine  garden-court,  once  adorned  with  flower-beds. 
These  were  enclosed  by  high  segment-shaped  stone  balustrades. 

Near  the  Fountain  at  the  next  street-corner,  at  the  N.E.  angle 
of  the  Forum,  are  the  Latrinse  (PL  3;  E,  2),  the  finest  ancient 
building  of  the  kind,  with  a  washing-basin  and  excellent  cleansing 
arrangements.  The  double  seats  (originally  25)  have  marble  arms 
adorned  with  dolphins. 

A  propylEeum,  with  a  vestibule  (16  ft.  wide)  and  twelve  steps 
forms  the  main  entrance  to  the  *Forum  (PL  E,  2,  3),  the  focus 
of  municipal  life,  to  which  foot-passengers  only  were  admitted.  It 
was  completed  in  the  reign  of  Trajan,  and  conforms  pretty  closely 
in  plan  to  the  rules  laid  down  by  Vitruvius.  It  forms  a  large 
rectangle,  110  by  65  yds.;  the  area  or  central  space,  55  by  47  yds., 
is  enclosed  by  Corinthian  colonnades.  The  vestibule  and  area  were 
once  adorned  by  a  crowd  of  equestrian  statues  of  emperors  and 
figures  of  distinguished  governors  of  Numidia  and  eminent  citizens. 
The  so-called  Marsyas,  the  symbol  of  civic  liberty,  marked  Thamu- 
gadi  as  one  of  the  most  favoured  colonies,  whose  inhabitants  enjoyed 
the  full  rights  of  Roman  citizenship.  Besides  the  pedestals  of 
thirty-two  statues,  we  note  also  several  representations  of  figures 
of  a  game  (comp.  p.  318)  on  the  stone  slabs  of  the  pavement;  among 
the  inscriptions  annexed  is  the  light-hearted  'venari  lavari  ludere 
ridere  occ  (hoc)  est  vivere'  (to  hunt,  bathe,  play,  and  laugh  is  to  live). 

The  chambers  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Forum  were  perhaps  Club 
Rooms.  The  two-storied  Shops  on  the  S.  side  opened,  on  the  upper 
floor,  into  the  Theatre  Street  (p.  293). 


Theatre.  TIMGAD.  45.  Route.     293 

The  only  building  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Forum  is  the  very 
dilapidated  Basilica  (PI.  E,  3),  once  the  exchange  and  court  of 
justice.  Unlike  most  other  ancient  edifices  of  the  kind,  it  is  a 
single  hall  (31  by  16  yds.),  with  three  niches  at  the  N.  end  and 
five  small  chambers  on  the  E.  side.  The  large  square  niche  at 
the  S.  end,  at  the  foot  of  the  theatre  hill,  served  as  a  law-court. 

Of  the  buildings  on  the  "W.  side  of  the  Forum  the  two  in  the 
middle  are  the  Curia  (PI.  E,  3),  where  the  town-council  (ordo 
decurionnm)  met,  a  rectangle  of  17  by  12  yds.,  with  a  colonnade 
in  front  and  platform  behind,  and  a  small  Temple  (PL  8;  E,  3), 
preceded  by  a  speaker's  platform  (rostra),  63/4  f  t.  high.  The  pur- 
pose of  the  other  buildings  is  unknown. 

Near  the  Fountain  at  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  Forum  we  turn  to 
the  S.,  out  of  the  Decumanus  into  the  Voie  de  la  Curie,  and  thence 
to  the  left  into  the  Voie  du  Theatre  (38  ft.  wide),  on  the  S.  side  of 
the  Forum. 

The  Theatre  (PI.  E,  3),  dating  from  167,  lies  on  the  W.  slope 
of  an  isolated  hill.  It  held  about  4000  spectators,  but  little  of  it 
is  left,  as  the  materials  were  used  in  building  the  Byzantine  fortress 
(p.  296).  The  semicircular  orchestra,  with  its  three  tiers  for  the 
places  of  honour  (biscllia),  allotted  to  the  decuriones  and  other 
persons  of  distinction,  is  well  preserved.  The  Cavea,  or  auditorium, 
69'/2yds.  wide,  rising  on  the  hill-side,  once  had  twenty-six  tiers 
of  seats,  but  of  these  the  seven  lowest  only  remain.  The  stage 
(jmlpitum)  has  been  destroyed  with  the  exception  of  the  front-wall, 
with  its  niches  and  steps,  and  the  hyposcenium,  consisting  of  brick 
pillars  (29'/2  in.  high),  which  supported  the  floor  of  the  stage.  The 
large  colonnaded  hall  behind  the  former  back-wall  of  the  stage 
served  as  a  promenade  ('foyer'). 

The  hill  behind  the  cavea  of  the  theatre,  where  the  remains  of  a 
'Temple  Court  have  been  unearthed,  affords  a  splendid  *Survey  of  the 
ruins.  The  view  extends  to  the  W.  to  the  distant  hills  near  Batna;  to 
the  S.E.,  beyond  the  great  debris-strewn  slopes  of  the  lower  hills,  rise 
the  Aures  Mts. 

From  the  centre  of  the  theatre  colonnade  we  may  walk  to  the 
W.  to  the  Petits  Thermes  du  Centre  (PI.  E,  3),  with  admirably 
preserved  heating  apparatus  in  the  caldarium  and  laconicum  (p.  291) 
on  the  W.  side. 

On  the  W.  side  of  these  baths  runs  the  Oaedo  Maximtjs  Sdd, 
the  linely  paved  main  street  of  the  S.  quarter  of  the  town,  leading 
past  the  entirely  ruined  S.  Gate  (PI.  E,  4)  and  the  house  of  the 
Sertii  (on  the  right;  p.  294),  and  ending  at  a  Fountain  in  the  Voie 
des  Thermes. 

The  *Thernies  du  Sud  (PI.  E,  4),  of  the  2nd  cent.,  extended 
in  198  and  restored  about  the  end  of  the  3rd  cent.,  are  the  finest 
in  the  town  next  to  the  N.  Thermse. 


294     Route  45.  TIMGAD.  Capitol. 

A  peculiarity  of  this  building  consists  in  the  three  great  Exedree, 
semicircular  projections  on  the  N.E.  and  S.  sides.  The  semicircle  near  the 
S.  entrance  contained  the  Latrinse,  now  almost  entirely  destroyed.  The 
great  colonnaded  hall  near  the  N.  entrance  served  as  a  promenade.  From 
the  Palaestra,  26  by  10  yds.,  the  largest  hall  in  the  baths,  bathers  could 
enter   the  Apodyterium  as  well  as  the  Frigidarium,   flanked  by  its   two 

Eiscinse.  The  small  ante-rooms  behind  the  Frigidarium  opened  into  the 
eated  rooms:  on  the  right  the  Tepidarium,  on  the  left  the  large  Cal- 
darium  with  its  three  hot-water  basins,  and,  straight  in  front,  a  smaller 
Caldarium  with  two  basins.  The  quadrangular  space  between  the  cal- 
daria  was  the  Laconicum. 

The  cellars  on  the  S.  side  were  partly  occupied  by  the  Praefurnimn 
(furnace  room).  Huge  stoves  (fornaces)  heated  the  water  in  cylindrical 
boilers  (testudines,  no  longer  existing)  and  also  the  air,  both  for  the 
llypocuustum,  or  hollow  floor  resting  on  low  brick  pillars,  and  for  the 
hollow  tiles  (tubuli)  or  nipple  tiles  (tegulae  mammatae)  with  which  the 
hollow  walls  of  the  hot  rooms  were  lined. 

To  the  S.W.  of  the  thermae  is  an  Artisan  Quarter  with  a  pottery 
and  a  bronze-foundry. 

"VVe  may  now  visit  the  Byzantine  Fortress  (p.  296)  or  else  go 
direct  to  the  House  of  the  Sertii  (PI.  D,  E,  4),  one  of  the  richest 
families  in  the  town  (comp.  p.  295).  This  building,  a  great  rect- 
angle of  68  by  35'/o  yds.,  comprising  no  fewer  than  three  insula 
or  blocks,  was  built  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  town-wall,  and 
extends  as  far  as  the  Voie  du  Capitole. 

The  colonnade  in  the  Cardo  Maximus  Sud  opens  on  a  square  Vesti- 
bulum.  Adjacent,  on  the  right,  wore  a  shop  of  the  owner's,  the  lodge 
of  the  porter  (ostiarius),  and  the  stairs  ascending  to  the  bath-rooms 
(balineuvi).  Next  to  the  vestibule  came  the  Peristyle,  a  colonnaded  court 
in  the  Doric  style,  off  which  opened  the  owner's  reception-room  (tablimim), 
the  dining-room  (triclinium),  and  several  bedrooms  (cubicula).  On  the 
left  there  was  a  staircase  to  the  upper  story.  A  second  peristyle,  with 
a  fountain-basin  and  a  fish-pond  (vivarium)  was  flanked  by  the  offices. 
The  large  room  at  the  back  was  the  banqueting-room  (oecus).  On  the 
W.  side  of  the  building  were  several  shops  for  letting. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  inner  town,  outside  the  town-wall,  which 
has  here  been  built  over,  runs  the  broad  Voie  du  Capitole,  at  the 
upper  end  of  which  rises  the  — 

*Capitol  (PL  C,  D,  4;  comp.  p.  288),  originally  one  of  the 
grandest  temples  in  the  whole  country.  A  flight  of  four  steps 
ascends  to  the  propylseum,  a  portico  of  twelve  columns  lately  re- 
erected.  The  vast  temple-court  is  an  irregular  quadrangle  of  about 
98  by  68-73  yds. ;  the  peribolos  or  enclosing  wall  was  restored, 
according  to  an  inscription,  under  Valentinian  I.  in  365.  Still  later 
the  S.  colonnade  was  converted  into  a  closed  corridor  with  shops. 
In  the  middle  of  the  court  is  the  basement  of  the  ancient  altar. 

A  lofty  flight  of  steps,  originally  38,  broken  halfway  up  by  a 
platform,  formed  the  approach  to  the  temple  (58  by  25  yds.).  The 
cella,  now  destroyed,  had  three  niches,  a  portico  of  six  columns, 
and  lateral  colonnades,  while  the  back-wall  was  closed.  Two  of  the 
gigantic  columns  of  the  portico,  44  ft.  high,  have  been  re-erected, 
while  the  huge  drums  and  capitals  of  others  lie  around,  notably  ou 
the  S.  side  of  the  temple. 


Trajan's  Arch.  TIMGAD.  ■*«•  Route.      295 

We  now  walk  down  the  Voie  du  Capitole  to  the  March6  de 
l'Ouest  (PL  D,  3),  or  West  MaceUum,  the  largest  covered  market 
in  the  town,  probably  built  by  one  of  the  Sertii  (p.  294)  early  in 
the  3rd  century. 

The  entrance  is  in  the  small  Place  du  Marche,  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
Decumanus  Maximus.  The  entrance  colonnade  (chcdcidicum)  leads  into 
the  quadrangle,  37  by  27  yds.,  paved  with  large  slabs  of  limestone  and 
surrounded  by  colonnades.  In  the  centre  originally  stood  a  square  fountain 
(tholos).  At  the  N.  end,  near  the  entrance,  were  two  shops  on  each  side 
and  the  stairs  to  the  upper  floor.  The  most  curious  feature  of  the  build- 
ing is  the  raised  *Exedra,  once  roofed,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  court,  with 
seven  deep  recesses,  closed,  like  those  of  the  E.  Market  (p.  292),  by  the 
stone  counters  of  the  sellers.  Remains  of  the  entablature  are  exhibited 
on  the  outer  wall. 

The  rectangular  'Marche  aux  Vetements1  (PI.  C,  D,  3),  on  the 
AV.  side  of  the  Place  du  Marche,  was  probably  a  minor  market. 

Close  by,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Decumanus  Maximus,  rises  the 
small  Temple  du  Gfnie  de  Timgad  (PI.  C,  D,  3,  4),  la  miniature 
capitol',  dedicated  in  151  to  the  genius  of  the  colony.  Three  flights 
of  steps  ascend  to  the  temple-court  with  relics  of  the  altar.  The 
temple,  with  its  four  Corinthian  columns  in  front,  is  a  mere 
ruin. 

We  next  visit  *Trajan's  Arch  (PI.  D,  3),  the  best-known 
triumphal  arch  in  Algeria,  an  extremely  massive  structure,  40  ft. 
high,  much  restored  in  1900.  This  was  once  the  W.  gate  of  the 
inner  town  (comp.  p.  296).  Instead  of  the  usual  corner-columns 
of  the  earlier  triumphal  arches,  it  has  on  each  side  four  projecting 
Corinthian  columns,  whose  entablature  is  relieved  with  rounded 
pediments  in  front  of  the  attica.  The  two  middle  columns  on  the 
E.  side  terminate  in  eagles  holding  thunderbolts  in  their  talons, 
instead  of  in  volutes  as  in  the  usual  capital.  Of  its  three  pas- 
sages, which  could  be  closed  by  means  of  portcullises,  the  central 
one  was  for  vehicles,  the  two  side-arches  for  foot-passengers. 
The  square  niches  over  the  side-gateways,  each  crowned  with  an 
asdicula,  were  originally  adorned  with  statues. 

We  now  return  to  the  inner  part  of  the  town.  Between  the  first 
and  the  second  S.  side-street  of  the  Decumanus  Maximus  is  the 
Maison  de  la  Piscina  (PL  D,  3),  a  large  dwelling-house  occupying 
two  insula,  so  named  from  the  granite  basin  in  the  peristyle, 
adorned  with  nine  little  columns  of  red  marble.  The  cecus,  or 
festal  hall,  at  the  S.  end,  has  a  tasteful  mosaic  pavement. 

Between  the  second  and  third  S.  side-streets  of  the  Decumanus 
Maximus  lies  the  open  quadrangle  of  a  Granary  (horreum),  con- 
taining numerous  grindstones  (pilons  a  ble ;  PL  7,  D  3).  The  house 
beyond  the  third  side-street  contains  a  Cellar  (hypogseum)  resting 
an  pillars  and  lighted  by  small  windows. 

The  fourth  N.  side-street  of  the  Decumanus  Maximus,  in  a  line  with 
the  Voie  de  la  Curie,  leads  to  the  ruins  of  a  Monastery  of  the  Byzantine 
age,   containing  a  balineum  or  bath-room.    The  Basilica  (PI.  2;  D,  2)  is 

Bakpekicr's  Mediterranean.  19 


296     Route,  45.  T1M6AD.  Byzantine  Fortress. 

a  complete  ruin.    To  the  N.W.  of  it  is  the  Baptistery  (PI.  1;  D,  2),  with 
relics  of  the  font  and  its  colonnade. 

The  House  of  Jannarius  (PI.  5;  D,  E  2),   to  the  N.E.  of  the  churoh, 
still  has  its  halineum. 


Time  permitting,  we  may  visit  the  ruins  outside  the  town. 

From  the  great  N.  Thermee  (p.  290)  we  may  walk  past  the 
D&pot  des  Tapis  Indigenes,  where  the  carpets  made  by  the  Berbers 
of  the  Aures  are  sold  (adm.  free),  to  other  remains  of  Thermes 
(PI.  0,1). 

To  the  S.  of  this  point  lies  the  early-Christian  Cathedral  (PI. 
C,  2),  separated  by  a  low  hill  from  the  outer  Decumanus  Maximus. 
This  was  a  basilica  with  nave  and  two  aisles,  42  by  lS'/o  yds.,  with 
clustered  columns  and  traces  of  the  choir-screen  and  altar-basement. 
The  sacristies  (prothesis  and  diaconicon),  adjoining  the  raised  apse, 
seem  to  have  been  entered  from  the  aisles  only. 

We  next  cross  the  hill  and  descend  to  the  S.W.  to  the  outer 
Decumanus  Maximus.  Here,  on  the  left,  quite  near  the  bed  of  a 
recently  formed  torrent,  is  the  Chdteau  d'Eau  (PI.  B,  3),  the  re- 
mains of  an  octagonal  nymphseum  or  fountain. 

Crossing  the-  bed  of  the  stream,  and  passing,  on  the  left,  the 
Thermes  du  Nord-Ouest  (PI.  B,  2),  we  reach  the  outer  Porte  de 
I'Ouest  (PI.  B,  2),  a  single  gateway  of  the  age  of  Marcus  Aurelius, 
well  preserved  in  its  lower  parts. 

From  the  Nymphseum  we  ascend  on  the  right  bank  of  the  brook 
towards  the  Capitol  (p.  294),  past  an  early-Christian  Chapel  (PI. 
C,  4),  almost  destroyed  by  the  stream.  Another  early-Christian 
Basilica  lies  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Capitol.  In  the  vicinity  a  large 
Monastery,  including  a  church  and  a  baptistery  containing  a  font 
with  fine  mosaics,  has  recently  been  discovered. 

Climbing  over  the  hill  to  the  S.  of  the  Capitol,  we  have  another 
survey  of  the  extensive  ruins,  and  then  walk  to  the  S.  to  the  By- 
zantine fortress,  5  min.  beyond  the  S.  Thermae  (p.  293). 

The  *Byzantine  Portress  (beyond  PI.  E,  4),  erected  under 
Justinian  with  stones  from  the  theatre,  the  Capitol,  and  other  Roman 
buildings  for  defence  against  the  Aures  Berbers,  forms  a  vast  rec- 
tangle, 122  by  80  yds.,  with  walls  8  ft.  thick,  still  rising  to  a  height 
of  23  ft.  on  the  W.  side.  Four  central  and  four  corner  towers,  and 
on  the  S.  side  a  sallying  gate,  have  been  preserved. 

The  so-called  Gregory's  Basilica,  on  a  hill  3  min.  to  the  S.W. 
of  the  fortress,  the  latest  building  in  the  town,  dates  only  from  the 
time  of  the  governor  Gregory  (7th  cent.;  p.  371). 

About  2  hrs.  to  the  S.W.  of  Tiingad  lie  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Berber 
town  of  Ichoukk&n,  on  a  lofty  plateau  inaccessible  on  three  sides,  above 
the  rock-gateway  of  Foum  Ksantina  ('Constantine-Gate'),  so  called  from 
the  resemblance  of  its  situation  to  that  of  Constantino.  Near  it  aro  exten- 
sive burial-grounds  with  thousands  of  graves. 


Grave  etimpiim^  |xn  Wtiojier.v  Debos.Leipz 


297 


46.  Constantine. 


The  Station  (PI.  D,  4;  Rail:  Restaurant)  for  Algiers  (R.  43),  Biskra 
(R.  44),  Philippeville  (R.  47),  Bona  (R.  48),  and  Souk-Ahras  (Tebessa, 
Tunis;  BR.  49-61)  is  in  the  Faubourg  d'el-Kautara,  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Rhumel,  15-18  min.  from  the  hotels. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  174).  Grand-Hotel  (PI.  a;  B,  4,  5),  Rue  Nationale  2, 
corner  of  Place  de  Nemours,  with  good  restaurant,  R.  3'/2-5,  B.  l-l'/at 
dej.  31/2.  D.  4-5,  pens.  10-12i/2fr.,  omn.  1  fr. ;  Hot.  St.  Georges  &  d' Orient 
(PI.  b;  B,  4),  Rue  Caraman  9,  R.  3,  pens.  10,  omn.  3/4fr.,  good  cuisine; 
Hot.  de  Paris  <fe  Royal  (PI.  c;  B,  4),  Rue  Nationale  and  Place  de  Nemours, 
R.  4,  B.  l'/jj  D.  4,  pens.  9-11,  omn.  l'/a  fr- —  Hot.  Terminus,  near  the 
station,  for  a  short  stay,  R.  3,  dej.  or  D.  3  fr.,  plain  but  quite  good; 
Hot.  Rouviere  (PI.  e;  B,  4),  unpretending  but  well  spoken  of. 

Cafes.  Cafe'  Germain,  Place  de  Nemours;  Cafe  Glacier,  Place  du 
Palais  8 ;  Cafe  Honorat,  in  the  Hot.  de  Paris,  Place  de  Nemours  (music 
in  the  evening).  —  Restaurants  (beer).  Taverne  Gambrinus,  Rue  Car- 
aman 6;  Brasserie  de  VEtoile,  Place  de  Nemours. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  10;  B,  5),  Place  de  Nemours. 

Cabs  (stand,  Place  de  Nemours),  first  '/a  nr-  lllt  (after  10  p.m.  I1/.,)  fr. ; 
for  1  hr.  2'/2>  each  addit.  V2  hr.  1  fr. ;  half-day  (6  hrs.)  10,  whole  day 
(12  hrs.)  20  fr.  —  Omnibus  from  the  Place  de  Nemours  to  the  Station  10, 
trnnk  25  c. ;  also  to  the  Faubourg  St.  Jean. 

Baths.  Bains  Lyonnais,  Rue  Damremont;  Bains  Rentes,  in  the  rav- 
ine of  the  Rhumel  (p.  302). 

Booksellers.  Braham,  Rue  du  Palais  4;  Roubille,  Rue  Damremont  37. 
—  Newspaper.    DSpeche  de  Constantine. 

Theatre.  Thtdtre  Municipal  (PI.  B,  5;  Nov. -Feb.  only),  Place  de 
Nemours. 

One  Day.  Forenoon,  Place  de  Nemours  and  Squares,  Museum,  Pa- 
lais de  Hadj  Ahmed,  Jewish  Quarter,  *Quartier  Perrigaux  (pp.  299-301). 
Afternoon,  *Gorges  du  Rhumel  (p.  301).     Guide  quite  unnecessary. 

Constantine  (1752-2113  ft.;  pop.  55,000,  incl.  28,300  Moham- 
medans and  8300  Jews;,  Arabic  Ksantina  or  Blad  el-Hawa  ('cite 
aerienne',  'town  of  air'),  the  capital  of  the  province  of  that  name 
and  the  seat  of  a  bishop  and  of  a  medersa  (Mohammedan  college), 
is  the  third-largest  town  in  Algeria.  The  old  town,  typically 
Berber  in  its  difficulty  of  access,  lies  on  a  chalky  limestone  plateau, 
descending  to  the  S.E.  and  N.E.  almost  perpendicularly  to  the 
Ravine  of  the  Rhumel,  and  to  the  N.W.  to  the  bed  of  a  brook, 
while  on  the  S.W.  it  is  connected  by  a  narrow  saddle  with  the  spurs 
of  the  long  Jebel  Chettaba  (4313  ft.).  The  town  has  three  suburbs, 
the  small  Faubourg  d'el-Kantara  near  the  station,  and  the  fau- 
bourgs Si.  Jean  and  St.  Antoine  on  the  margin  of  the  Coudiat-Aty 
(PI.  A,  5,  6),  a  hill  recently  almost  levelled  to  form  a  building-site. 

Constantine  is  the  centre  of  the  Algerian  grain-trade  and  has 
an  important  wool-exchange.  Several  manufactures  too  are  very 
active  (tanning,  shoemaking,  saddlery,  and  weaving).  The  chief 
centres  of  trade  and  manufacture  are  still  the  native  quarters, 
resembling  the  Kasba  of  Algiers,  the  picturesque  charm  of  which 
has  so  far  been  marred  by  the  construction  of  but  few  new  streets. 
The  gay  costumes  of  the  Mohammedans  and  the  mediaeval  attire  of 
the  Jewesses  are  specially  interesting. 

19* 


'298     Route  46.  CONSTANTINE.  History. 

Constantine  has  but  a  poor  climate.  Spring  is  the  best  season 
for  visiting  it.  In  winter  the  cold  (p.  170)  is  very  severe  and  the 
winds  are  often  bitter,  while  in  summer  and  autumn  the  hot  sirocco 
is  more  prevalent  than  anywhere  on  the  coast.  The  low  ground 
flanking  the  Rhumel  is  malarious  from  June  to  October. 

Constantine,  originally  the  Phoenician  Kartha  ('town'),  afterwards 
called  Cirta  by  the  Romans,  was  the  greatest  inland  centre  of  culture 
in  the  territory  of  the  Numidian  kings,  and  under  Syphax  became  their 
residence.  The  first  recorded  conquest  of  the  town  was  by  Jugurtha 
(p.  321),  in  B.C.  112,  who  wrested  it  from  his  cousin  Adherbal.  Under 
the  Roman  empire  Cirta,  the  chief  of  the  four  allied  Coloniae  Cirtenses 
(Constantine,  Milo,  Philippeville,  and  Collo),  belonged  to  the  Diocesis 
Ntimidia,  the  domain  of  the  legate  of  the  Third  Legion  (p.  286).  Having 
been  destroyed  by  the  troops  of  Einp.  Maxentius  in  311,  the  town 
sprang  up  anew  from  its  ruins  the  following  year;  it  then  superseded 
Lambaesis  as  the  capital  of  Numidia,  and  was  named  Constantino,  in 
honour  of  its  patron  Constantine  the  Great.  In  435  it  was  the  only  town 
in  Barbary  that  repelled  the  attacks  of  the  Vandal  Genseric  (p.  322}, 
but  it  remained  politically  unimportant  till  the  Moorish  period,  when  it 
was  occupied  by  the  Hammadites  (p.  263),  and  afterwards  belonged  in 
turn  to  the  Almohades  (p.  95),  the  Merinides  (p.  95),  and  the  Hafsides 
(p.  323).    In  the  middle  ages  it  rivalled  Bougie  as  a  seat  of  learning. 

In  the  Turkish  period  Constantine  was  the  capital  of  the  E.  Algerian 
beylic,  and  for  centuries  groaned  under  the  despotism  of  the  beys.  In 
French  military  annals  it  was  noted  for  its  heroic  defence  by  Ahmed  Bey, 
who  after  the  fall  of  Algiers  had  become  the  independent  ruler  of  E.  Al- 
geria. In  1836  the  first  French  attack  upon  the  El-Kantara  gate  from 
the  hill  of  Mansoura  proved  a  disastrous  failure,  over  five  hundred  of 
the  besiegers  being  hurled  into  the  ravine  of  the  Rhumel.  The  capture 
of  the  town  in  1837,  effected  from  the  Coudiat-Aty,  was  purchased  with 
the  death  of  generals  Damremont  and  Perregaux. 

During  the  first  decades  of  the  French  domination  all  the  Roman 
buildings  were  destroyed  except  the  aqueduct  (p.  302),  the  Rhumel  bridge 
(p.  301),  and  the  cisterns  (p.  300).  The  buildings  of  the  Turkish  period 
afford  an  instructive  example  ot  the  sad  decline  of  late-Moorish  art. 

The  railway-station  (PI.  D,  4)  is  at  present  connected  with  the 
old  town  by  the  iron  bridge  of  *E1-Kantara  (PI.  D,  3;  1863),  of 
one  arch,  139  yds.  long  and  407  ft.  above  the  Rhumel.  Far  below 
we  see  the  Roman  bridge  (p.  301),  and  upstream  we  have  a  fine 
view  of  the  S.  part  of  the  gorge.  Much  higher  up  is  the  New  Bridge 
(comp.  PL  0,  6),  a  marvellous  feat  of  engineering.  It  spans  the 
Rhumel  ravine,  at  a  height  of  330  ft.  above  the  river,  with  a  single 
arch  of  masonry,  230  ft.  in  width. 

From  the  former  Porte  d'el-Kantara  runs  the  new  Rub  Natio- 
nale  (PL  0,  B,  4),  the  chief  thoroughfare  of  Constantine,  leading 
through  the  whole  town  to  (x/a  St.)  the  Place  de  Nemours.  Halfway, 
where  the  street  bends  and  is  crossed  by  the  Rue  Perregaux 
(p.  301),  rises  the  new  Medersa  (PI.  7,  0  4;  see  p.  297)  in  the 
Turkish-Moorish  style;  from  its  staircase  we  enjoy  an  even  finer 
view  of  the  Rhumel  ravine  than  from  the  cross-roads. 

Halfway  along  the  upper  part  of  the  street,  on  the  left,  rises 
the  Grande  Mosqu6e  (PL  B,  4, 5 ;  Arabic  J&ma  el-Kcbir),  which 
received  a  new  facade  and  minaret  when  the  street  was  made.    The 


Mu*ie-  CONSTANTINE.  46.  Route.     299 

very  dissimilar  columns  which  support  the  timber  ceiling  in  the 
interior  are  partly  from  ancient  buildings.  Two  antique  Doric 
capitals  recall  the  columns  of  the  mausoleum  of  Le  Khroub  (p.  273). 

The  noisy  and  dusty  Place  de  Nemours  or  Place  de  la  Breche 
(PI.  B,  4,  5 ;  2054  ft.  above  sea-level),  on  the  site  of  the  Bdb  el- 
Djadia  or  Porte  de  la  Breche,  is  the  chief  scene  of  the  town's 
traffic.  A  few  paces  to  the  S.W.,  between  the  old  town  and  the 
Coudiat-Aty  (p.  297),  are  two  public  gardens.  On  the  left,  next 
the  street  leading  to  the  new  bridge,  is  the  pretty  Square  No.  1 
(PI.  A,  B,  5),  with  a  bronze  statue  of  Valee;  and  on  the  right  Square 
No.  2  (PI.  A,  5),  with  numerous  Roman  antiquities.  The  latter 
affords  a  splendid  view  of  Jebel  Chettaba  (p.  297),  of  the  lower 
valley  of  the  Rhumel  visible  a  long  way  down,  and  of  the  distant 
heights  of  El-Kantour  (p.  303).  The  road  between  the  two  squares 
proceeds  to  the  S.W.  to  the  Monument  of  Gen.  Lamoricitre  (PI. 
A,  5)  by  Belloc  (1909),  in  front  of  the  Halle  aux  Grains.  —  From 
the  latter  the  newViaduct  (comp.  PI.  A-C,  5,  6 ;  490  yds.),  now  under 
construction,  will  eventually  lead  to  the  New  Bridge  (p.  298). 

Beneath  the  Hotel  de  Paris  et  Royal  (p.  297),  at  the  E.  corner  of 
the  Place  de  Nemours,  a  flight  of  90  steps  descends  to  some  interest- 
ing Grottoes  (adm.  1  fr.),  whose  sparkling,  rose-shaped  crystals  of 
gypsum  produce  a  very  unique  effect. — From  the  N.  angle  of  the 
square  the  Boul.  de  l'Ouest  leads  along  the  town-wall  to  the  Hotel 
de  Ville  (PI.  6 ;  A,  B,  4),  of  1903,  whose  staircase  and  vestibule  are 
enriched  with  onyx  and  six  kinds  of  marble  from  Aln-Srnara  (p.  272). 
The  first  floor  contains  the  Town  Library  and  behind  it  the — 

Musee  de  Constantine,  comprising  antiquities  and  natural 
history  collections.  Adm.  (except  Sun.  andTues.)  9-11  and  3-5,  50  c. 
Conservator,  M.  TJlysse  Hinglais.    Catalogue  (1905)  1  or  5  fr. 

On  the  Staircase  are  Roman  mosaics. 

Room  I.  In  the  central  cases  are  prehistoric  finds  from  the  Tell  Atlas 
and  the  Oued  Rhir  (p.  285);  Byzantine  and  early-Moorish  antiquities  from 
Morsott  (p.  314)  ana  Kalaa  des  Beni-Hammad  (p.  270);  natural  history 
specimens  (incl.  vegetable  fibres  utilized  industrially).  The  wall-presses 
contain  fossils  from  the  hill  of  Mansoura  (p.  302)  and  Jebel  Sidi  M'Cid; 
Phoenician  and  Roman  antiquities  from  the  necropolises  of  the  Coudiat- 
Aty,  of  Collo,  Bulla  Regia,  etc.  (clay  vases,  fine  Roman  bronzes,  a  glass 
cinerary  urn,  trinkets,  cut  gems).  By  the  wall  of  exit  are  Spanish-Moor- 
ish, Italian,  and  Kabylian  ceramics,  Moorish  fayence  from  Tlemceu, 
Nabeul  (p.  3G5),  etc.;  a  late-Moorish  door;  a  Turkish  executioner's  sword 
from  Khenchela.  Here  too  are  a  map  of  the  artesian  wells  in  the  pro- 
vince of  Constantine  and  a  model  of  a  boring  apparatus. 

Room  II.  The  show-cases  contain  coins  and  medals.  In  the  wall- 
presses,  natural  history  specimens;  marble  and  onyx  from  Ai'n-Smara.  On 
the  walls,  a  small  collection  of  pictures. 

Gallery  (on  the  left  of  R.  I).  Large  Roman  clay  vessels,  neo-Puuic 
and  Roman  stelse,  Roman  sculptures,  Moorish  fragments,  casts. 

From  the  Boul.  de  l'Ouest  the  Boul.  du  Nord  (PI.  A,  B,  4,  3; 
fine  views)  and  (to  the  right)  the  Rue  du  Rocher  lead  to  the  Kasha 
(p.  300). 


300     Boute46.  CONSTANTINE.  Native  Quarters. 

The  busiest  streets  of  the  European  quarter,  where  many  of  the 
inhabitants  are  Italians  and  Maltese,  are  the  Rue  Caraman  (P1.B,4) 
with  the  Rue  Chevalier,  the  Rue  d'Aumale,  and  the  Rue  Damremont 
(PI.  B,  4,  3),  all  to  the  N.  of  the  Place  de  Nemours.  Between  these 
lines  of  streets  lies  the  spacious  Place  du  Palais  (PI.  B,  4). 

The  Palais  de  Hadj  Aluned  (PI.  B,  4;  now  military  head- 
quarters), on  the  N.E.  side  of  the  square,  built  by  Ahmed  Bey  in 
1828-35,  contains  four  picturesque  courts,  adorned  with  tiles.  The 
front  court  is  decorated  with  clumsy  frescoes  depicting  chief  towns 
of  the  Orient.  The  interior  is  not  shown.  Concierge  1/2  fr. 

The  Cathedral  (PL  2,  B  4;  Notre-Dame  des  Sept-Douleurs), 
on  the  E.  side  of  the  Place  du  Palais,  was  once  the  Market  Mosque 
(Jama  Silk  er-Rezel),  with  its  nave  and  double  aisles,  built  in 
1707.  The  women's  galleries  next  the  entrance-wall  now  contain 
the  organ.  The  choir  is  a  modern  addition.  In  the  outer  right  aisle, 
in  the  middle  of  the  E.  wall,  with  its  well-preserved  tile  and  stucco 
decoration,  is  the  old  mihrab  (p.  180),  now  a  chapel.  The  mimbar 
in  the  inner  left  aisle  is  now  the  pulpit;  behind  it  is  a  copy  of  the 
inscription  on  the  Rocher  des  Martyrs  (p.  301). 

The  Rue  Caraman,  continued  by  the  Rue  Chevalier,  and  the 
Rue  de  France  (PL  B,  C,  4,  3)  both  lead  to  the  N.E.  to  the  Place 
Negrier  (PL  C,  3),  in  which  rises  the  Mosque  of  Sidi  el-Kettani 
(PL  8;  B,  C,  3),  built  by  Sala-Bey.  The  first  floor  of  the  building 
contains  a  marble  mimbar  executed  by  Italian  sculptors.  On  the 
N.  side  of  the  square  is  a  new  Synagogue  (PL  11;  C,  3). 

At  the  N.  end  of  the  town,  partly  on  the  site  of  the  Roman  capi- 
tol,  is  the  old  Kasba  (PL  B,  3;  2116  ft.;  666  ft.  above  the  Rhumel), 
now  a  group  of  new  buildings,  including  barracks  and  the  military 
hospital.  Of  the  Roman  Cisterns,  originally  a  quadrangle  of  164 
by  39  yds.,  about  one-third  has  been  preserved  and  is  now  again 
in  use.  The  view  from  the  garden  of  the  Artillery  Arsenal  (PL  B, 
C,  2,  3),  at  the  N.  end  of  the  Kasba,  immediately  above  the  ravine 
of  the  Rhumel,  is  justly  extolled.  Adm.  by  leave  of  the  military 
authorities  (Palais  de  Hadj  Ahmed;  see  above).  Entrance  in  the  Rue 
Damremont  (p.  299).  From  the  Kasba  the  new  Suspension  Bridge 
('Pont  Suspendu' ;  PL  C,  D,  2,  3)  crosses  the  Rhumel  at  a  height  of 
590  ft.  to  the  Hopital  Civil  (PL  D,  2). 

The  *Native  Quarters,  intersected  by  the  upper  Rue  Natio- 
nale,  with  their  lively,  picturesque,  crooked  streets,  lie  in  the  lower 
part  of  the  town,  between  the  Place  de  Nemours,  Rue  Caraman, 
Rue  de  France,  and  the  Rhumel  ravine  (p.  301).  The  most  interes- 
ting streets  are  those  inhabited  by  Mohammedan  artisans,  largely 
Mozabites  (p.  216),  between  the  Rue  Combes  (PL  B,  4)  and  the  Rue 
Vieux  (PL  B,  C,  4,  3),  both  of  which  lead  to  the  N.E.  to  the  Place 
Rahbet  es  Souf  ('wool-market')  or  Place  des  Galettes  (PL  C,  4), 
with  its  Market  Hall.   Between  this  square  and  the  Boul.  de  l'Est 


Gorges  du  Rhumd.        CONSTANTINE.  *«■  Route.     301 

(PL  C,  3),  a  fine  point  of  view,  lies  the  Jewish  Quarter,  which  is 
worth  seeing,  especially  on  Saturdays. 

Still  more  picturesque  than  these  quarters  is  the  purely  Moham- 
medan *Quartier  Perre'gaux,  which  descends  the  triangular  S.  part 
of  the  rocky  plateau,  often  in  steep  steps,  from  the  Rue  Nationale 
to  the  Rhumel  Ravine.  Through  this  quarter  runs  the  Rue  Perre- 
gaux  (PI.  C,  B,  4,  5),  the  chief  thoroughfare  between  the  Rue  Natio- 
nale and  the  old  Turkish  Porte  Djebia  (PI.  B,  5).  Near  this  gate, 
at  the  corner  of  the  Rue  Perregaux  and  Rue  des  Tanneurs,  is  a 
Mosque  Portal  with  charming  tile-decoration. 

From  the  Rue  Perr6gaux  we  may  descend  by  the  Rue  de  l'Arc 
and  (to  the  right)  the  Rue  de  l'Alma,  or  direct  by  the  Rue  Morland, 
under  the  new  bridge,  to  the  small  kubba  of  Sidi-Rached  (PI.  B, 
C,  6;  1752  ft.).  From  the  adjacent  rocky  height  we  have  a  grand 
view  of  the  upper  Rhumel  ravine.  Opposite,  near  the  old  Pont 
du  Diable  (PI.  B,  C,  6),  is  the  Rocher  des  Martyrs,  bearing  an  old 
inscription  in  memory  of  the  Christian  martyrs  of  259 


The  **Gorges  du  Rhumel,  the  grandest  ravines  in  the  Tell 
Atlas,  present  a  most  impressive  scene,  especially  during  the  melting 
of  the  snow  or  after  heavy  rain,  but  in  summer  much  of  their  charm 
is  lost  owing  to  the  lowness  of  the  stream  and  the  stench  of  the 
tanneries.  The  gorge  was  first  made  accessible  in  1895  by  the 
Chemin  des  Touristes,  a  path  l3/4  M.  in  length,  constructed  by  the 
engineer  Fr.  R6mes.  From  the  S.  entrance  (PL  C,  6;  1811  ft.),  near 
the  new  bridge,  it  descends  parallel  with  the  Chemin  du  Rhumel 
(10  min.  above  the  station),  close  past  the  main  entrance  (see  below) 
and  under  the  El-Kantara"  bridge  and  the  new  Suspension  Bridge 
to  the  lower  end  of  the  ravine  (1512  ft).  It  is  to  be  connected  with 
the  new  N.  entrance  (PL  B,  2),  on  the  Corni.che  road  (p.  302),  by 
a  side-branch.  Tourists  pressed  for  time  may  go  direct  from  the 
station  to  the  S.  entrance,  walk  down  the  gorge  as  far  as  the 
grottoes,  turn  back  there,  and  then  leave  by  the  main  entrance. 
A  ticket  for  the  day  (2  fr.,  or  f(  r  repeated  visits  lj%  fr.  each  time) 
admits  also  to  a  bath  in  the  Bans  Remes. 

The  main-entrance,  near  the  so-called  Porte  Vitruve  (1730  ft.), 
is  reached  from  the  Boul.  de  l'Est,  45  yds.  to  the  N.  of  the  old  El- 
Kantara  gate  (p.  298),  by  an  uncomfortable  path  descending  insteps; 
another  descends  from  the  Corniche  road  on  the  opposite  side 
('Entree' ;  PL  D,  3),  3  min.  below  the  bridge. 

Before  entering  the  gorge  we  may  glance  at  the  remains  of  the 
Roman  Bridge,  which  crosses  the  river  at  the  narrowest  part, 
66  yds.  across.  The  sculptures,  two  elephants  and  a  weather-worn 
relief  of  Africa,  belonged  perhaps  to  a  still  older  bridge. 

From  the  ticket-office  we  first  walk  upstream,  on  the  right  bank, 


302     Route  46.  CONSTANTINE.  Corniche  Road. 

by  the  Upper  Path,  often  up  and  down  steps.  The  rocky  sides  of 
the  gorge  are  enlivened  by  numerous  storks,  pigeons,  and  hawks; 
far  below  us  the  river  dashes  down  its  stony  bed.  High  above 
peep  the  picturesque  houses  of  the  native  quarter.  On  the  left  bank 
are  the  Bains  Rentes,  with  a  hot  spring  (90°  Fahr.),  and  remains 
of  a  Roman  Aqueduct.  They  are  reached  by  a  side-path  to  the 
right,  ca.  220  yds.  beyond  the  ticket-office.  The  baths,  or  Piscinae, 
originally  Roman,  have  been  entirely  renewed. 

Farther  up  (l/t  hr.),  a  path  in  steps  ascends  to  the  left,  under 
the  new  bridge,  not  far  from  the  Pout  du  Diable  and  the  Pointe  de 
Sidi-Rached  (comp.  p.  301),  to  the  S.  entrance. 

We  now  return  to  the  chief  entrance,  and  near  the  office  descend 
to  the  left,  by  a  path  with  steps  and  iron  stairs,  to  the  *Grottoes, 
230  ft.  high  at  places,  through  which  the  river  flows,  mostly  under- 
ground, for  a  distance  of  330  yds.;  the  huge  dome  of  rock  is 
specially  impressive  when  viewed  from  the  middle  of  the  iron  foot- 
bridge. A  winding  staircase  next  descends  to  the  Lower  Path, 
with  its  wire-fence  and  benches.  Passing  below  the  new  Suspension 
Bridge  (p.  300)  we  reach  the  last  arch  of  rock  (retrospect  of  the 
grottoes)  and  in  a  few  minutes  the  lower  (N.W.)  end  of  the  gorge, 
above  the  Cascades  (PI.  B,  2). 

Those  who  do  not  care  to  return  to  the  El-Kantara  bridge  may  ascend 
direct  from  the  last  archway  to  the  Corniche  road. 

The  Rhumel  Fall,  dashing  over  rock-terraces  to  a  depth  of  212  ft., 
the  precipice  below  the  Kasba,  and  the  Rocher  Sidi  M'Cid  (see  below) 
are  all  admirably  viewed  from  the  Moulins  Lavie  (PI.  A,  2),  on  the  left 
bank,  10  min.  from  Square  No.  2  (p.  299). 

The  traveller  should  not  omit  to  take  a  short  walk  on  the  superb 
*Route  de  la  Corniche  (PI.  D-B,  3-1),  starting  from  the  El- 
Kantara  bridge.  Below  the  Hopital  Civil  (p.  300)  two  short  tunnels 
carry  the  road  through  the  Rocher  Sidi  M'Cid,  an  offshoot  of  Jebel 
Sidi  M'Cid  (2575  ft).  The  finest  point  is  (»/4  hr.)  a  small  project- 
ing platform  at  a  bend  in  the  road,  whence  we  look  down  on  the 
Rhumel  Fall  and  the  baths  of  Sidi  M'Cid. 

In  a  dale  at  the  N.  base  of  the  Rocher  Sidi  M'Cid  lies  the  pleasant 
Hammam  Sidi  M'Cid  (PI.  B,  1),  with  saline  springs  and  two  large  swim- 
ming-baths. 

The  '  Grand  Tour'  (l-iy4  hr. ;  carr.  3-4  fr. ;  bargain  advisable) 
is  a  favourite  drive  by  the  Route  de  Setif  (PI.  A,  5,  6;  affording 
a  fine  retrospect  of  the  Quartier  Pcrregaux),  and  across  the  upper- 
most Rhumel  bridge,  to  the  Roman  Aqueduct  (p.  274) ;  thence  from 
the  Route  de  Batna  to  the  right  to  the  Pipiniere,  in  a  dale  full 
of  fruit-trees,  and  charming  in  spring;  lastly  over  the  pine-clad 
Mansoura  Hill,  crowned  with  a  fort,  and  back  by  the  Chemin 
de  Mansoura  (PI.  D,  5)  to  the  bridge  of  El-Kantara. 

From  Constantine  to  Algiers,  see  R.  43;  to  Bona,  see  R.  48;  to  Biskra, 
see  R.  44;  to  PhilippeviUe,  see  R.  47;  to  Djidjelli  (Bougie),  see  R.  42; 
to  Souk-Ahras,  see  R.  49;  to  Tunis,  see  RR.  49,  51. 


303 

47.  Prom  Constantino  to  Philippe  ville. 

54  M.  Railway  in  S-^/j  hrs.  (9  fr.  75,  7  fr.  30,  5  fr.  35  c).  Railway 
Restaurant  at  Col-des-Oliviers. 

Constantine,  see  p.  297.  Running  to  the  N.,  the  line  pierces 
the  Rocher  Sidi  M'Cid  (p.  302)  by  tunnels,  proceeds  high  above 
Hammam  Sidi  M'Cid  (p.  302)  and  the  Rhumel,  with  a  splendid 
retrospect  of  Constantine,  and  then  curves  round  to  (41/2  M.)  Le 
Hamma  (1614  ft.),  station  for  the  Oasis  du  Hamma,  a  luxur- 
iantly fertile  dale  with  countless  fruit-trees,  watered  by  the  Hamma 
and  several  springs. 

8  M.  Bizot  (1805  ft.).  It  then  descends  to  the  Oued  Smendou, 
a  tributary  of  the  Rhumel,  and  ascends  its  right  bank  to  (17  M.) 
Conde-Smendou  (1838  ft.). 

We  cross  several  feeders  of  the  Oued  Safsaf  (see  below)  and 
pass  through  the  Hills  of  El-Kantour  in  several  tunnels,  below 
the  pass  of  that  name,  now  called  also  Col-des-Oliviers. 

25l/2  M.  Col-des-Oliviers  (1365  ft.;  Rail.  Restaurant),  station 
for  a  group  of  small  villages  inhabited  by  immigrant  farmers 
Thence  a  steep,  winding  descent,  in  a  hill-region  denuded  of  its 
forest,  to  (31  M.)  Bougrina,  like  Robertville,  a  station  for  the 
large  village  of  El-Arrouch. 

35^2  M.  Robertville  (348  ft.;  several  inns),  a  village  on  the 
Oued  Ahmar,  is  the  starting-point  of  the  fine  hill-roads  through 
the  Massif '  de  Philippeville  via  (23  M.)  Bordj  Tafnalous  to  (40  M.) 
Collo  (p.  131;  diligence  twice  daily  in  8  hrs.),  and  to  Djidjelli 
(p.  267;  motor-omnibus,  see  p.  267). 

The  train  now  descends  into  the  valley  of  the  Oued  Safsaf, 
where  wild  olives,  poplars,  and  cork-trees  abound. 

4272 M.  St.  Charles  (138  ft.;  Hot.  du  Lion  d'Or),  the  oldest 
farming  settlement  in  the  district,  founded  by  Germans  and  Bel- 
gians in  1840,  was  at  first  defended  by  four  small  forts. 

From  St.  Charles  to  Bona,  61'/'.>  M.,  railway  in  4-5  hrs.  (7  fr.  50, 
5  fr.  5,  4  fr.  5  c).  9  M.  Rds  el-Ma,  with  a  quicksilver-mine;  15>/2  M. 
Jemmapes  (312  ft.;  Hot.  d'Orient;  pop.  2800),  on  the  Oued  Fendek,  a 
little  town  founded  in  1848,  the  chief  place  on  the  roads  from  Philippe- 
ville to  13ona  and  to  Guelma  (p.  308) ;  19'/a  M.  Oued-Hammimine,  a 
small  bath-hotel  (pens,  with  hath  6  fr.),  with  three  hot  sulphur-springs 
(95-115°  Pahr. ;  season  Sept. -Nov.  only);  41  M.  Ain-Mokra  (85ft.),  on  a 
slope  near  tho  malarious  Mats  of  Lac  Fetzara,  a  swamp  of  about  35,000 
acres,  and  the  now  abandoned  iron-mines  of  the  Comp.  du  Mokta  el-Hadid; 
451/2  M.  Atn-DaUah,  for  tho  new  mine  of  Marouania  belonging  to  the 
same  company.    61*/s  M.  Bona,  see  p.  309. 

We  descend  the  narrow  Safsaf  valley  to  (47x/2  M.)  Safsaf. 
50V2  M.  Damremont  (33  ft.)  is  the  station  also  for  VaUe  (122  ft.), 
a  village  on  the  vine-clad  right  bank,  on  the  Bona  and  Guelma  road 
(see  above).  —  The  train  leaves  the  Safsaf,  crosses  its  tributary 
Oued  Zeramna  (p.  305),  and  passes  through  a  tunnel  under  the  W 
slope  of  Mont  Skikda  (p.  304;. 


304     Route  41.  PHILIPPEVILLE.  Harbour. 

54  M.  Philippeville. — The  Station  (PI.  C,  2;  no  buffet)  is  not 
far  from  the  quay,  a  few  paces  from  Place  de  Marqu6. 

Arrival  by  Ska  (comp.  RR.  20,  22).  The  steamers  of  the  Gen.  Trans- 
atlantique  (agent,  Paure,  Place  de  Marque)  moor  at  the  quay;  those  of  the 
Transports  Maritimes  (agent,  Caffa)  and  of  the  Navigation  Mixte  (agents, 
Daprela  &  Campiglia,  Place  du  Commerce)  anchor  in  the  Grande  Darse 
(PI.  C,  D,  1).  Cab-fares,  see  below.  Portefaix  (porter)  for  articles  under 
20  kilos  (44  lbs.)  to  the  station  25,  to  the  town  40  c;  trunk  50  or  75  c. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  174).  Grand-Hotel  (PI.  a;  C,  2),  Place  de  Marque, 
with  fine  views,  R.  3-5,  dej.  2'/2,  D.  3,  pens.  8l/2  fr.,  good;  Hot.  Foy,  same 
square  (PI.  B,  2),  new,  R.  3-6  fr.,  B.  60  c.,  d<5j.  or  D.  2>/2,  pens,  from 
8  fr. ;  Hot.  de  France  &  de  la  Marine  (PI.  b ;  B,  2),  same  square,  No.  3, 
R.  2-3,  B.  3/4,  dej.  2'/2,  D.  3  fr. ;  Hot.  Leger,  Rue  Nationale,  R.  2-5,  B.  *U, 
dej.  2'/2,  D-  3>  pens.  6-7  fr.,  plain  but  good;  Nouvelle  Poste  (PI.  d;  B,  2), 
Place  du  Commerce,  Cinq  Nations  (PI.  e;  C,  3),  Rue  de  Constantine, 
corner  of  Rue  Gambetta,  both  plain. 

Cafes-Restaurants.  Cafe"  de  Foy,  at  the  hotel  (see  above);  Boutin, 
Plage  du  Chateau- Vert  (in  summer). 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (PL  5;  B,  2),  Place  du  Commerce. 

Banks.  Banque  de  VAlgirie,  Avenue  du  Troisieme-Zouaves;  Comp. 
Algerienne  and  Credit  Lyonnais,  Rue  Nationale  30  and  51. 

Baths  in  the  Grand-Hotel;  also  Tenienski,  Rue  Buffon.  —  Sea  Baths. 
Bassin  du  Chateau  -  Vert  (see  below);  at  Stora  (p.  306),  etc. 

Theatre.  Theatre  Municipal  (PI.  7 ;  B,  C,  8),  Place  Corneillo  (some- 
times Italian  pieces).  — Band  on  Sun.  in  tho  Place  de  Marqud. 

Cabs  (stand,  Place  Corneille).  Drive  1  fr.;  first  hr.  2>/2,  each  addit.  hr. 
2  fr. ;  half-day  10,  whole  day  18  fr.  —Diligence  to  Stora  (50  c),  St.  Antoine 
(25  c),  etc. 

British  Vice-Consul,    W.  H.  Miller,  Rue  Teophile  Reguis. 

Philippeville  (Arabic  Slcileda;  pop.  26,000,  incl.  16,000  Euro- 
peans, mostly  Italians  and  Maltese,  and  4800  Mohammedans),  the 
youngest  Algerian  seaport,  was  founded  by  Marshal  Valee  in  1838 
as  a  harbour  for  Constantine.  It  lies  on  the  fine  Gulf  of  Stora 
(p.  128),  about  1  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  mouth  of  the  Safsaf  (p.  303), 
in  a  ravine  between  Mont  Sldlala  (548  ft.)  to  the  E.  and  Jebel  Bou 
Yala  to  the  S.W.  Its  site  is  that  of  the  ancient  Busicade,  once 
a  Phoenician  town,  but  founded  anew  by  the  Romans  in  45  B.C. 
Under  the  empire,  as  the  Colonia  Veneria  Busicade,  it  belonged 
%o  the  league  of  Cirta  (p.  298),  but,  according  to  local  tradition,  it 
had  ceased  to  exist  by  484.  The  chief  harbour  in  the  gulf,  being 
well  sheltered,  was  formerly  the  neighbouring  Asthoret,  now  Stora 
(p.  306),  but  it  has  been  superseded  by  that  of  Philippeville,  con- 
structed in  1860-80  at  a  cost  of  some  20  million  francs. 

The  Harbour,  after  Bona  (p.  309)  the  chief  outlet  for  the 
produce  of  the  province  of  Constantine,  consists  of  an  excellent 
inner  basin  of  50  acres  (Grande  Darse;  PI.  C,  D,  1)  and  an  Avant- 
Port  (PI.  A,  B,  1)  of  75  acres.  The  Grande  Jetee du  Nord  (PI.  D,  1), 
running  out  from  Cape  Skikda,  is  1  M.,  the  Jetee  du  Clidteau- 
Vert  (PI.  A,  1),  on  the  W.  side,  «/4  M.  in  length. 

The  best  points  for  viewing  the  harbour  and  bay  are  the  Place 
de  Marque  (PI.  B,  C,  2;  popularly  PL  de  la  Marine),  the  pretty 
Petit  Bois  or  Jardin  de  VHopital  (PI.  C,  2),  adjacent  on  the  E., 
and  the  lofty  Place  des  Zouaves  (PI.  D,  2,  3 ;  drilling-ground). 


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Museum.  PHILIPPEVILLE.  47.  Route      305 

Past  the  Place  de  Marque  runs  the  Rue  Nation  ale  (PI.  B,  C,  2- 
4),  the  main  street,  connecting  the  chief  gates,  the  N.W.  Porte  de 
Stora  (PI.  B,  2)  and  the  S.  Porte  de  Constantine  (PI.  C,  4),  whence 
issue  the  Constantine,  Bona,  and  Guelma  roads.  The  narrow  gorge 
affords  room  for  only  a  few  parallel  streets.  The  side-streets  ascend 
the  hill-sides  partly  in  steps. 

The  Thedtre  Municipal  (PI.  7 ;  B,  C,  3),  in  the  narrow  Place 
du  Commerce,  on  the  "W.  side  of  the  Rue  Nationale,  stands  on  the 
foundations  of  a  Roman  temple.  A  little  farther,  on  the  E.  side  of 
the  street,  is  the  pretty  Square  Carnot  (PI.  C,  3).  —  To  the  W. 
from  this  square  the  Rue  Gambetta  leads  to  the  College  Communal 
(PI.  B,  3).  On  the  N.E.  slope  of  Jebel  Bou  Yala,  behind  the  school 
(apply  to  the  concierge  here,  30-50  c.)  lies  the  — 

Roinan  Theatre,  the  largest  in  Algeria,  erected  at  the  earli- 
est under  Hadrian;  but  as  it  was  used  as  a  quarry  for  building  the 
modern  town,  little  of  it  is  now  left.  Of  the  cavea,  90  yds.  wide, 
which  held  5-6000  spectators,  only  a  few  steps,  two  passages,  and 
relics  of  vaulting  remain.    The  stage  is  below  the  school-building. 

From  the  Rue  Gambetta  the  Rue  Valee  (PI.  B,  C,  3,  4)  leads 
through  the  heart  of  the  Mohammedan  quarter  to  the  Rue  St.  Au- 
gustin  and  the  — 

Museum  (PI.  3;  C,  4).  The  collections  include  some  valuable 
Roman  antiquities.  Adm.  daily,  8-6;  Sun.  and  Thurs.  free;  on  other 
days  1  fr. ;  catalogue  (1901)  1  fr.  10  c. ;  curator,  M.  L.  Bertrand. 

The  Garden  contains  numerous  Roman  columns,  statues,  etc. 

The  Pavillon  Central  has  archaeological  collections  on  the  ground- 
floor.  In  the  centre,  173.  Roman  milestone,  from  Hadrian's  road  from 
Rusicade  to  Cirta  (p.  298);  151.  Antoninus  Pius,  in  marble.  In  the  first 
wall-press  are  objects  from  Roman  tombs,  mostly  from  Rusicade:  687. 
Genius,  a  statuette  in  marble.  Detached,  749.  Punic  tomb-stela.  In  the 
second  wall-press,  Roman  vases  and  lamps;  also,  *805.  Bust  of  a  youth, 
after  an  Attic  work  of  the  age  of  Praxiteles;  806.  Bust  of  Agrippina  the 
Elder;  778.  Punic  stela  of  the  goddess  Tanit,  from  Carthage;  779.  Mithras 
stone;  783.  Boy's  head;  904.  Clay  statuette  of  a  woman  bathing;  968.  Bust 
of  Hadrian.  By  the  following  end-wall,  Roman  inscriptions  and  altars. 
At  the  other  eiid,  one  early-Christian  (293)  and  two  late-Roman  sarcophagi 
(224,  331),  Roman  inscriptions,  etc.  —  The  1st  Floor  contains  ethnographical 
and  natural  history  collections  and  pictures. 

The  Fa villon  Nord  contains  coins  and  medals,  the  Pavillon  Sun 
a  small  collection  of  weapons  and  flags. 

Excursions.  Bearing  a  little  to  the  left  from  the  Porte  de  Con- 
stantine (see  above),  we  cross  the  large  Place  des  Chameaux  (PI.  D,  4), 
where  an  interesting  Cattle  Market  is  held  on  Thursday  mornings, 
and  then  follow  the  S.  slope  of  Mont  Skikda  (p.  304),  past  the  Cem- 
etery, to  ('/2  hr.)  the  Chateau  Landon  or  Domaine  des  Lions, 
which  has  a  beautiful  garden.  (Visitors  require  the  permission  of 
M.  Gallard,  the  superintendent,  Rue  Galbois.) 

The  St.  Charles  (and  Constantine)  road  leads  through  the  Fau- 
bourg de  V Esp6ranee  in  the  fertile  dale  of  the  Oxied  Zeramna, 


306     Route  47.  PHILIPPEVILLE.  Stora. 

past  the  (2^2  M.)  Ecole  Pratique  d' Agriculture,  to  the  prettily 
situated  village  of  (33/4  M.)  St.  Antoine  (33  ft.;  diligence  25  a). 
From  St.  Antoine  we  may  visit,  via  the  Route  de  Praxbourg,  the  Oued 
Amida,  or  upper  valley  of  the  Zeramna,  a  hill-region  where  cork-tree 
plantations  abound,  and  a  favourite  resort  of  wild-boar  and  jackal  hunters. 
Or  we  may  follow  the  Chemin  de  la  Carriere  Romaine  across  the  Col  Cham- 
bceuf,  on  Jebel  Soubouyou  (1050  ft.),  to  Damr6mont  (p.  303). 

To  the  W.  of  the  Porte  de  Constantine  a  picturesque  road  leads 
via  Montplaisant  to  the  dale  of  Beni  Melek,  famed  for  its  wine. 
We  may  return  thence  via  the  Porte  des  Citernes  (PI.  A,  3)  and 
Rue  d'Orleans,  or  descend  the  Chemin  du  Beni-Melek  to  the  Route 
de  Stora. 

For  a  visit  to  Stora  we  may  take  the  *Route  de  la  Corniche, 
the  heautiful  new  shore-road  which  starts  from  the  Place  de  Marque 
(PI.  B,  C,  2)  and  at  places  is  tunnelled  through  the  living  rock 
(ca.  2  M. ;  diligence).  Or  we  may  follow  the  picturesque  Route  de 
Stora  (2l/2  M.),  the  old  upper  road,  beginning  at  the  Stora  Gate 
(p.  305).  Stora,  a  fishing-village  with  sea-baths,  is  now  inhabited 
chiefly  by  Italians.  The  line  view  hence  extends  to  Jebel  Filfila 
and  the  Cap  de  Fer  (p.  131).  On  the  steep  shore  are  fragments  of 
an  Aqueduct,  partly  underground,  and  several  Cisterns  (restored), 
relics  of  the  Roman  Asthoret  (p.  304).  A  vault  now  used  as  a 
laundry  probably  belonged  to  a  Nymphaeum  or  fountain. 

48.  From  Constantine  to  Bona  via 
Duvivier. 

135V2  M.  Railway,  in  7-83/4  hrs.  (24  fr.  65,  17  fr.  60,  13  fr.  20  c). 
The  morning  train  has  a  dining-car  between  Le  Khroub  and  Duvivier. 
Buffets  at  Le  Khroub  and  Duvivier.  The  only  intermediate  station  of 
interest  is  Hammam-Meskoutine. 

From  Constantine  to  (10  M.)  Le  Khroub,  see  pp.  274,  273. 

Our  line  diverges  to  the  E.  from  those  to  Algiers  and  Biskra 
(EE,  43,  44)  and  ascends  between  low  hills  in  the  bleak  valley  of 
the  Oued  Berda,  a  tributary  of  the  Oued  Bou  Merzoug  (p.  272). 

18  M.  Bou-Nouara  (2330  ft.)  has  an  ancient  Berber  Necro- 
polis, whose  dolmens  and  rock-tombs,  lJ/4  M.  to  the  N.  of  the 
railway,  extend  along  the  spurs  of  Jebel  Mazela  (3412  ft.). 

25^2  M.  Ain-Abid  (2822  ft.),  the  highest  point  on  the  line, 
lies  on  the  watershed  between  the  Oued  Berda  and  the  Oued  Ze- 
-  nati,  one  of  the  feeders  of  the  Seybouse  (p.  308).  35  M.  Ain-Re- 
gada  (2487  ft.),  also  in  a  dreary  steppe. 

42  M.  Oued-Zenati  (2268  ft. ;  Hot.  de  France) ,  pleasantly 
situated  on  a  partially  wooded  hill-side,  the  only  large  village 
before  Guelma,  has  a  busy  market  (Sun.,  Hon.,  Thurs.). 

The  Road  to  Guelma  (28  M. ;  diligence  in  41/*  hrs.)  leads  to  the  N.E. 
through  a  pretty  hill-country  direct  to  Medjez-Amar  (p.  308),  just  before 
(1474  M.)  Ain-Amara,  and  below  Tliibilis  (p.  307). 


HAMMAM-MESKOUTINE.        48.  Ronte.     307 

Road  and  railway  make  a  long  bend  to  the  W.  round  the  hill- 
region  of  Bou  Hamdan.  Beyond  (52  M.)  Bordj  Sabath  (1759  ft.), 
where,  below  the  influx  of  the  Oued  Sabath,  the  Zenati  is  called 
Oued  Bou  Hamdan,  the  scenery  changes.  The  valley,  whose 
slopes  are  richly  overgrown  with  olive-trees  and  underwood,  con- 
tracts. In  the  stony  river-bed  grow  many  wild  oleanders. 

59  M.  Taya  (1312  ft.),  a  pleasant  oasis  with  fruit-trees  and 
eucalypti,  lies  near  the  stalactite  grottoes,  not  easy  of  access,  in  the 
limestone  hill  of  Jebel  Taya  (3963  ft.).  The  valley  again  contracts 
in  the  two  Gorges  de  Taya. 

68  M.  Hammam-Meskoutine  (1312  ft.;  *H6tel  des  Bains; 
R.  5-6,  B.  1V„,  dej.  31/,,  D.  4,  pens.  14,  motor-omn.  I1/*-*1/!  fr., 
open  15th  Nov.  to  June),  the  Roman  Aquae  Thibilitanae,  is  now  one 
of  the  most  noted  baths  in  Algeria.  The  'indifferent'  springs  are 
strongly  impregnated  with  chloride  of  sodium  and  sulphate  of  lime  ; 
one,  containing  iron,  has  a  temperature  of  187°  Fahr.,  the  others 
226°.  The  latter  form  the  *Grande  Cascade,  5  min.  from  the 
station,  on  the  way  to  the  hotel,  falling  over  a  terrace  of  calc-sinter 
42  ft.  high,  a  miniature  edition  of  the  terraces  of  Yellowstone  Park, 
or  of  Hierapolis  (in  Asia  Minor).  Below  the  terrace  rise  date-palms 
and  splendid  olive-trees,  while  the  bed  of  the  Oued  Chedakra  with 
its  profusion  of  oleanders  further  enhances  the  peculiar  charm  of 
the  scene.  The  curious  limestone  cones,  a  few  paces  to  the  E.,  re- 
lics of  old  eruptions,  have  given  rise  to  the  Arabian  legend  of  the 
petrified  wedding  party,  from  which  the  place  derives  its  name 
('Baths  of  the  Petrified').  Smaller  springs  rise  beyond  these  cones 
and  also  3  min.  to  the  E.,  near  the  railway. 

Enclosed  by  the  houses  of  the  bath-hotel  is  a  charming  Garden 
Court,  with  orange  and  lemon  trees.  Most  curious  among  the  num- 
erous Roman  antiquities  (stelse,  funerary  inscriptions,  etc.)  placed 
here  is  the  house-altar  of  the  Antistii,  from  Thibilis  (see  below), 
on  the  S.  terrace,  shaded  by  a  venerable  terebinth.  The  ruined 
Piscinae  are  the  only  relics  of  Roman  buildings. 

Excursions.  To  the  S.W.  lies  the  p/4  hr.)  Lac  Souterrain,  a  pond 
88  ft.  deep,  in  a  cavern  formed  in  1878  by  a  landslip.  In  sunshine  (best 
2-4  p.m.)  the  water  assumes  a  beautiful  blue  colour.  —  To  the  S.,  a  little 
aside  from  the  lake  just  mentioned,  we  may  ride  on  mule-back,  or  walk, 
via  Ain-St.  Charles  and  Ain-Amara  (see  above)  to  (2  hrs.)  Announa,  the 
Roman  Thibilis,  lying  on  a  narrow  hill  (ca.  2300  ft.),  high  above  the 
Announa  Valley,  where  excavations  have  been  made  since  1905.  We  note 
specially  the  Ek.H  Gate,  the  Entrance  Arch  of  the  forum,  vestiges  of 
the  Market  Basilica,  the  house  of  Magister  Pagus,  and  the  sadly  ruined 
South  Gate,  the  only  two-arched  Roman  gateway  in  Algeria.  Outside  1he 
late-Byzantine  town-walls,  on  the  S.W.  side  of  the  little  town,  is  the 
Byzantine  Basilica  built  of  fragments  of  Roman  buildings;  in  the  semi- 
circular choir-recess  aro  five  rows  of  seats  for  the  clergy,  with  the  bishop's 
place  in  the  centre.  —  A  new  road  (carr.  12  fr.)  leads  to  the  N.W.  to 
(9'/a  M.)  the  ancient  Berber  Necropolis  of  Roknia,  on  the  W.  slope  of 
Jebel  Debar  (3U2  ft.),  with  many  dolmens  (p.  321)  and  rock-tombs,  sadly 
damaged  of  late. 


308     Route  48  GUELMA.  From  Constanline. 

The  train  next  makes  a  wide  bend  to  the  S.,  round  the  wooded 
hills  of  the  Beni  Addi,  past  the  influx  of  the  Oued  Cher f  into  the 
Bou  Hamdan,  which  now  takes  the  name  of  Seybouse.  72  M. 
Medjez-Amar  (958  ft.),  amid  fine  hill  scenery. 

80  M.  Guelma(916ft.;  Hot.  d'Orient,  Rue  Sadi-Carnot,  toler- 
able; Hot.  de  l'Univers;  pop.  10,  200),  a  pleasant  little  town,  in  a 
broad  olive-clad  basin,  was  founded  on  the  site  of  Calama  in  1836, 
when  the  Byzantine  Town  Walls  of  the  time  of  Solomon  (p.  315) 
were  partly  used  to  build  the  French  camp.  The  striking  ruins  of 
the  Roman  Thermae  (2nd  cent.  A.  D.),  with  walls  still  about  33  ft. 
high,  and  the  Jardin  Public,  with  Roman  antiquities,  are  worth 
seeing.  There  is  a  small  collection  of  antiquities  also  at  the  Mairie. 
The  restoration  of  the  Roman  Theatre  was  begun  in  1907  but 
never  finished. 

Guelma  holds  the  greatest  Cattle  Market  in  E.  Algeria  (Mon- 
days; chief  of  all,  last  Sunday  in  April).  The  poor-looking  oxen, 
mostly  light-grey,  of  the  E.  districts  as  far  as  the  Tunisian  front- 
ier, are  known  as  Guelma  cattle. 

An  interesting  excursion  may  be  made  from  Guelma  by  carriage 
(12  fr.  whole  day)  to  Thibilis  (p.  307). 

As  the  train  proceeds,  we  have  a  fine  view,  to  the  right,  of 
Jebel  Mahouna  (4630  ft.),  often  snow-clad  in  winter.  82x/2  M. 
MilUsimo  (755  ft.);  86  M.   Petit,  amidst  pleasant  wooded  hills. 

93  M.  Nador  (430  ft.),  with  the  poor  huts  of  the  natives  half- 
hidden  by  cactus-hedges,  is  the  station  for  the  zinc-mines  on  Jebel 
Nador  (2418  ft.),  owned  by  the  Vieille-Montagne  Company. — 
We  next  traverse  the  Gorges  du  Nador,  clad  with  underwood. 

101  M.  Duvivier  (312  ft.;  Rail.  Restaur.;  Hot.  Lagarde, 
poor;  pop.  2000),  below  the  mouth  of  the  Oued  Melah  (p.  312), 
junction  for  Bona,  Souk-Ahras  (Tunis,  Tebessa;  RR.  49-51). 

Our  line  now  runs  to  the  N.  through  the  Seybouse  valley. 
10372M.  Boudaroua,  105lj2  M.  Oued-Frarah,  110  M.  St.  Joseph, 
all  on  the  W.  border  of  the  wooded  hills  of  the  Beni  Salah. 

On  the  right,  just  before  (117  M.)  Barral,  is  the  new  reservoir 
of  the  Canal  d'Irrigation  de  la  Seybouse.  The  chief  branch  of 
the  conduit  runs  on  the  left  bank  through  the  plain  of  Bona.  A 
minor  branch,  along  with  the  highroad,  crosses  to  the  right  bank, 
below  the  picturesque  village,  by  the  iron  Pont  de  Barral. 

We  now  enter  the  Plaine  de  Bone,  the  broad,  largely  marshy 
flats  of  the  Seybouse,  a  picture  of  luxuriant  fertility  in  spring,  with 
their  extensive  vineyards,  flower-carpeted  meadows,  tall  aloes,  and 
picturesque  clumps  of  trees. 

120'/2  M.  Mondovi  (72  ft. ;  Hot.  Honorati),  the  agricultural 
centre  of  the  district,  with  many  thriving  farms. 

124  M.  St.  Paul,  junction  of  a  branch-line  to  (7  M.)  Randon. 
To  the  left  appears  the  Massif  du  Belelie'ta  (876  ft.),  in  front  of 


to  Bona.  BONA.  48.  Route.     309 

Jebel  Edough  (see  below);  then,  between  (127  M.)  Duzerville  and 
(13072  M.)  Alldlik,  is  seen  the  low  Massif  da  Bou  Hamra  (499  ft.), 
with  its  very  ancient  iron-mines,  now  worked  by  the  Mokta  el-Ha- 
did  Company  (p.  303). 

Skirting  the  fringes  of  the  hills  last  named  the  train  now  runs 
close  to  the  Seybouse,  and  beyond  the  castle-hill  of  Hippo  Regius 
(p.  311),  on  the  left,  crosses  the  Oued  Boudjimah. 

lSS1^  M.  Bona.  —  Stations.  1.  Gare  de  la  Comp.  Bone-Guehna 
(PI.  A,  4),  the  chief  station,  for  Constantino  and  for  Souk-Ahras  and 
Tunis  (RR.  49,  51).  —  2.  Gare  de  la  Comp.  du  Mokta  el-Hadid  (PI.  A, 
B,  4),  for  the  St.  Charles  line  (p.  303).  —  3.  Gare  de  la  C'alle  (PI.  B,  4), 
for  the  light  railway  to  La  Calle  (p.  131). 

Arrival  by  Sea  (comp.  RR.  20,  22).  The  steamers  of  the  Gen.  Trans- 
atlantique  (agent,  De  Pleurre),  of  the  Transports  Maritimes  (agent,  Tedd6), 
and  of  the  Navigation  Mixte  (agent,  Fadda)  are  all  berthed  at  the  Q,uai 
Nord  (PI.  B,  C,  3),  in  the  Petite  Darse.     Cabs,  see  below. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  171).  Hotel  d' Orient  (PI.  a;  B,  2),  Cours  Jerome- 
Bertagna,  with  frequented  restaurant,  well  spoken  of;  Hot.  Cramet  (PI.  b; 
B,  3),  Rue  Prosper-Dubourg;  Hot.  Continental  (PI.  c;  B,  2),  Passage  des 
Thermopyles  (entrance  next  the  Hot.  d'Orient),  with  good  restaurant,  dej.  2, 
D.  2'laiT.,  plain;  Hot.  Moderne,  Rue  des  Volontaires,  new. 

Cafes.  Cafe"  St.  Martin,  Cours  Jeiome-Bertagna;  Brasserie  du  Petit 
Gambrinus,  Rue  du  Quatre  Septembre. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  B,  3),  Place  de  la  Poste. 

Basks.  Banque  de  VAlgirie,  Comp.  Alge'rienne,  Credit  Lyonnais, 
and  Credit  Foncier  d'Algirie  et  Tunisie,  all  in  the  Cours  Jdrome-Ber- 
tagna.  —  Booksellers.  Faure  (Legendre),  cor.  of  Rue  St.  Augustin  and 
Rue  du  Quatre  Septembre;  Borel  &  Langlade,  Cours  JiSrome-Bertagna. 

Baths.  Euvremer,  Rue  Damremont;  Bains  Maures  (comp.  p.  175),  Rue 
Belisaire.  —  Sea  Baths.  Grenouillere  (p.  310),  in  the  Avant-Port;  Plage 
Chapuis  and  others  at  St.  Cloud-les-Plages  (p.  311).  —  Theatre  (PI.  4; 
B,  2),  Cours  Jerome-Bertagna.  —  Races,  21th  April. 

Cabs  (stand,  Cours  Jerome-Bertagna).  Drive  1  (and  back  l'/.J  fr. ;  first 
hr.  2,  each  addit.  hr.  l*/s  fr- ;  half-day  8,  whole  day  15  fr.  —  Omnibus  from 
the  Cours  Jerome-Bertagna  to  the  Plage  Chapuis,  etc. 

Consuls.  British  Vice-Consul,  H.  A.  Scratchley,  Rue  du  Rempart  3. 
—  U.  S.  Consular  Agency,  Rue  Thiers. 

One  Day.  Forenoon,  Harbour,  Cours  Jerome-Bertagna,  Hippo  Regius 
(pp.  310,  311);  afternoon,  Cap  de  Garde  or  Bugeaud  (p.  311). 

Bona,  French  Bone,  Arabic  Enneba  (pop.  42,900,  incl.  28,300 
Europeans,  mostly  French,  11,200  Mohammedans,  and  1700  Jews), 
on  the  W.  side  of  the  Gulf  of  Bona  (p.  128),  a  fortified  town,  is 
the  chief  seaport  of  Algeria  after  Oran  and  Algiers  and  the  most 
important  outlet  for  the  produce  of  the  d^partement  of  Constantine, 
such  as  phosphates  (p.  315),  iron  (comp.  pp.  310,  314),  zinc,  cork, 
cattle,  and  cereals.  Besides  its  fine  harbour,  the  town  offers  no 
sights;  but  it  deserves  a  visit  especially  in  winter,  for  the  sake  of 
its  pretty  situation  at  the  foot  of  Jebel  Edough  (3307  ft.;  p.  169), 
not  far  from  the  picturesque  Cap  de  Garde. 

Bona  lies  on  the  small  Anse  du  Cassarin,  about  l'/4  M.  to  the  N.E. 
of  HippOj  which  was  one  of  the  chief  Phoonician  colonies  on  the  coast 
of  N.  Afnca.  Under  Masinissa  (p.  321)  Hippo  was  the  capital  of  Numidia, 
and  under  the  Roman  empire,  when  it  was  called  Hippo  Regius,  it  was  the 
richest  port  on  the  N.  coast  next  to  Carthage  and  rivalled  CuBsarea  (p.  244) 


310     Route  48.  BONA.  Harbour. 

Here  in  393  met  a  council  of  over  three  hundred  bishops,  who  for  the  first 
time  recognized  the  present  canon  of  the  New  Testament.  On  that  occa- 
sion St.  Augustine  (born  in  354  at  Thagaste,  p.  313),  attended  as  a  pres- 
byter and  co-bishop.  Chief  among  the  four  'Latin  fathers'  and  a  Keen 
opponent  of  the  Donatists  (p.  322),  St.  Augustine,  after  his  conversion 
at  Milan  by  St.  Ambrose  (387),  settled  at  Hippo,  where  he  was  bishop 
from  395  to  430,  and  died  there  during  the  siege  of  the  town  by  the 
Vandals.  After  its  destruction  by  Genseric  and  the  downfall  of  the 
Vandals ,  whose  king  Gelimer  (p.  322)  sought  his  last  asylum  on  Mt. 
Edough,  Hippo  arose  from  its  ruins  once  more  under  the  Byzantines,  but 
it  succumbed  to  the  assaults  of  the  Arabs  in  697  and  was  thenceforth 
entirely  abandoned. 

The  present  town  of  Bona,  founded  later  by  the  Arabs  on  the  slope 
of  the  Kasba  hill,  was  seized  by  the  Genoese  in  the  15th  cent,  for  the 
sake  of  its  valuable  coral-fishery.  After  the  conquest  of  Tunis  (p.  332), 
it  was  occupied  for  a  short  time  by  the  Spaniards  in  1535,  and  after- 
wards temporarily  by  the  Compagnie  d'Afrique  from  Marseilles.  In  1837, 
soon  after  the  entry  of  the  French  (1832),  the  old  Kasba,  built  under 
Charles  V.,  was  blown  up,  and  since  then  the  native  quarter  has  been 
modernized  in  French  fashion. 

The  *Harbour,  which  has  been  so  improved  of  late  years  as 
to  rival  that  of  Algiers,  consists  of  three  basins.  The  Petite  Darse 
(PI.  B,  C,  3),  27  acres  in  area,  the  old  inner  harbour,  lies  near  the 
railway-stations  and  the  mouth  of  the  Seybouse  ;  the  Grande  Darse 
(PI.  C,  D, 3, 2;  formerly  the  outer  harbour),  170  acres  in  area,  is 
a  new  basin  between  the  Mole  Cigogne  (PI.  C,  3)  and  the  small  creek 
of  Grenouillere  (sea-baths) ;  the  Avant-Port  is  a  new  outer  basin  of 
nearly  100  acres  adjoining  the  Pointe  du  Lion.  The  outer  entrance 
to  the  harbour,  270  yds.  wide,  between  the  Jetee  du  Lion,  1200  yds. 
long,  and  the  Jetee  Slid  (PI.  C,  D,  4,  3),  1800  yds.  long,  is  difficult 
of  access  during  N.  or  N.E.  gales.  The  inner  entrances,  through 
the  Jetee  Babayaud  and  at  the  Mole  Cigogne  (see  above),  are  only 
77  yds.  wide.  The  Quai  Nord  (PI.  B,  C,  3)  in  the  Petite  Darse  is 
for  the  large  French  passenger-steamers,  the  Quai  Ouest  (PI.  B,  3) 
for  phosphate,  and  the  Quai  Sud  (PL  B,  O,  4)  for  the  iron-ore  from 
the  mine  near  Ai'n-Daliah  (p.  303).  Adjoining  the  last  quay  and 
bordering  the  new  reclaimed  lands  (82  acres)  is  the  new  Quai  aux 
Phosphates  (PL  C,  D,  3,  4),  to  be  used  for  the  phosphate  depots  and 
for  the  Ouenza  iron  ores  (comp.  p.  314). 

The  broad  Cotjrs  Jerome-Bertagna  (PL  B,  2,  3;  formerly 
Cours  National),  the  main  street  of  the  town,  with  the  pretty 
grounds  of  the  'Square',  skirts  the  W.  side  of  the  native  quarter. 

To  the  W.,  in  the  European  quarter,  are  the  covered  Marche 
(PL  B,  2),  the  interesting  Fondouk  (PL  1,  A  2;  native  market), 
and,  in  the  Boul.  des  Jujubiers,  the  Marche"  aux  Grains  (PI.  A,  3). 

Outside  the  W.  gates,  Porte  des  Karezas  (PI.  A,  3)  and  Porte 
Randon  (PL  A,  1),  are  the  Marche  aux  Bestiaux  (PL  A,  2;  Thurs.) 
and  the  grounds  of  the  Square  Randon  (PL  A,  2). 

The  Native  Quarter,  where  also  the  Jews  reside,  is  intersected 
by  the  Rue  St.  Augustin  (PL  B,  C,  2). 


Hippo  Regit*.  BONA.  48.  Route.     31 1 

From  the  Boul.  Victor-Hugo  (PI.  B,  C,  2),  on  the  N.  side  of  this 
quarter,  we  may  mount  in  10  min.  to  the  Colline  de  la  Kasba, 
or  Colline  des  Santons  (358  ft.),  crowned  by  the  Kasba  (PI.  C, 
D,  1;  no  admittance).  The  pine-clad  slope  is  skirted  by  the  pretty 
Bozd.  des  Caroubiers  (PI.  C,  D,  2, 1). 

A  beautiful  walk  may  be  taken  from  the  Porte  des  Caroubiers 
(PI.  D,  1)  on  the  busy  *Chemirt  de  la  Corniche,  round  the  E. 
side  of  the  Batterie  du  IAon,  always  skirting  the  shore  and  passing 
many  villas  with  luxuriant  gardens.  It  leads  to  the  N.W.  to  the 
suburb  of  (2'/2  M.)  St.  Cloud-les-Plages,  on  the  Baie  des  Caroubiers, 
with  its  sea-baths  (p.  309).  In  clear  weather  a  pleasant  drive  may 
be  taken  past  the  little  Baie  des  Corailleurs  and  the  old  Fort 
Genois  to  (7  M.)  the  Cap  de  Garde.  At  the  Semaphore  (519  ft.), 
above  the  lighthouse,  we  enjoy  a  delightful  view  of  the  bay. 

From  the  Faubourg  Ste.  Anne  (PI.  A,  1)  a  hill-road  with  fine  views, 
but  almost  shadeless  as  far  as  the  (5  M.)  Col  des  Chacals  (1578  ft.),  as- 
cends in  windings  to  (9  M.)  Bugeaud  (2809  ft. ;  Hot.  Puster,  Hot.  Kittler, 
Hot.  Cronstadt,  etc.),  a  favourite  summer  resort,  beautifully  situated  among 
woods  of  cork-oaks.  In  clear  weather  the  *Panorama  from  {V/„  hr.)  Kef 
Seba  (3307  ft.),  the  summit  of  Mt.  Edough,  embraces  the  whole  coast  from 
the  bay  of  Stora  (p.  128)  to  the  Kroumirie  (p.  326). 

The  dusty  Route  de  Constantine  (PI.  A,  4)  leads  through  the  S. 
town-gate  to  a  (12  min.)  Bridge  the  foundations  of  which  are  Roman, 
spanning  the  Oued  Boudjimah  (p.  309).  Between  this  brook  and 
the  Seybouse,  whose  mouth  once  lay  farther  to  the  S.E.  and  was 
used  as  a  harbour,  extended  the  site  of  Hippo  Regius  (p.  309). 
The  road  straight  on,  beyond  the  bridge,  leads  to  the  (ca.  5  min.) 
Fortin,  which  together  with  the  castle-hill  (see  below)  formed  the 
nucleus  of  the  Roman  town.  Here  once  lay  the  Roman  villa  quarter. 
Excavations  in  the  former  Jar  din  Chevillot  (adm.  50  c.) ,  now  belong- 
ing to  the  town,  have  brought  to  light  several  Roman  columns  and 
mosaics  (Apollo  and  the  Muses,  Triumph  of  Amphitrite,  etc.),  the 
foundations  of  a  small  early-Christian  basilica,  and  notably  a  frag- 
ment of  wall,  about  22  yds.  long,  composed  of  enormous  blocks  of 
granite,  10-13  ft.  long,  39  in.  thick,  and  27  in.  high.  This  last  is 
probably  the  oldest  and  most  interesting  specimen  of  Phoenician 
building  in  Barbary.  In  the  adjoining  property  of  Mme.  Dufour 
part  of  Ihe  foundations  of  a  Roman  villa  and  superb  mosaics  have 
been  laid  bare.  Among  the  latter  are  a  very  lifelike  representation 
of  a  hunt,  fishing-scenes,  houses  of  a  town,  etc.  (admission  kindly 
granted).    Of  the  Ancient  Theatre  a  few  steps  only  now  exist. 

To  the  right,  just  beyond  the  Boudjimah  bridge  (see  above), 
diverges  the  Chemin  de  Belelieta,  whence  after  9  min.  a  fine  road 
leads  to  the  right  to  the  old  Castle  Hill  (181  ft.).  On  its  slope  lie 
the  Roman  Cisterns  of  Hippo,  resembling  in  plan  those  of  Bordj 
el-Djedid  (p.  350),  but  modernized  in  1893  for  the  waterworks  of 
Bona  (small  fee  for  admittance).    As  Lalla  Bouna,  a  famous  saint, 


312     Route  49.  LA  VERDURE.  From  Constantine 

is  supposed  to  have  been  buried  here,  the  spot  attracts  Mohammedan 
pilgrims  on  Fridays,  when  they  may  be  seen  picturesquely  grouped 
round  the  bronze  Statue  of  St.  Augustine  (1843). 

The  castle-hill  is  crowned  with  the  handsome  Basilica  of  St. 
Augustine,  founded  by  Card.  Lavigerie  (p.  346),  and  built  by  Abbe 
Pougnet  in  1885-1900  in  a  semi-Oriental  style,  on  the  model  of 
the  cathedral  of  Carthage  (p.  347). 

The  Interior  is  unfinished.  Over  the  high-altar  is  preserved  a  highly- 
revered  relic  of  St.  Augustine,  whose  bones  were  carried  in  490,  during  the 
Vandal  period,  by  fugitive  Catholic  bishops  to  Sardinia,  whence  they  were 
removed  to  Pavia  by  the  Longobard  king  Liutprand  in  722.  In  front  of 
the  church  we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  coast,  with  its  dunes,  as  far  as 
Cape  Rosa  (p.  131). 

From  Bona  to  St.  Charles  (Constantine),  see  p.  303;  to  Souk-Ahras, 
see  R.  49;  to  Tunis,  see  R.  51. 


49.  From  Constantine  or  Bona  via  Duvi- 
vier  to  Souk-Ahras  (Tebessa,  Tunis). 

From  Constantine  to  Souk-Ahras,  134  M.,  railway  in  7-9'/4  hrs. 
(24  fr.  30,  17  fr.  35  c,  13  fr.).  Change  at  Duvivier.  Railway  Restaurants 
at  Le  Khroub,  Duvivier,  and  Souk-Ahras. 

From  Bona  to  Souk-Ahras,  66'/-2  M.,  railway  in  3V4-5V4  hrs.  (11  fr.  95, 
8  fr.  55,  6  fr.  40  c). 

Constantine,  and  thence  to  (101  M.)  Duvivier,  see  p.  297  and 
R.  48.  — From  Bona  to  (34^2  M.)  Duvivier,  see  pp.  309,  308. 

"We  cross  the  Seybouse  and  follow  the  narrow  dale  of  the  Oued 
Melah  to  the  S.E.,  with  its  fine  growth  of  underwood.  107'/2  (or 
40V2)  M.  Medjez-Sfa  (476  ft.);  the  village  (758  ft.)  lies  to  the 
right,  on  the  Souk-Ahras  road.  We  then  mount  to  (113  or  46  M.) 
Ain-Tahamimine  (about  1100  ft.),  with  its  eucalyptus  groves. 

The  finest  part  of  the  line  lies  between  this  point  and  Laverdure. 
We  cross  the  ravine  of  the  Oued  Cher f  by  a  viaduct.  116  (or  49)  M. 
Ain-Affra  (1739  ft,).  We  ascend  the  hill-side  to  the  N.E.,  partly 
through  plantations  of  young  cork-trees  and  underwood,  and  then  on 
the  crest  of  the  hill  turn  sharply  back  to  the  S.W.  Below  lies  the 
line  just  traversed.  At  several  points  we  obtain  a  splendid  view  of 
the  distant  hills  of  the  Beni  Salah  (p.  308).  Among  the  cork-trees 
appear  the  first  evergreen  oaks. 

124  (or  57)  M.  Laverdure  (2369  ft,).  The  village  (2526  ft.; 
H6t.  Arena;  Hot,  Raschiero),  1  M.  to  the  W.,  on  the  Souk-Ahras 
road,  with  its  woods  and  beautiful  views,  attracts  summer  visitors. 

To  the  left  appears  Jebel  Mahabouba  (4144  ft.),  often  snow- 
clad  in  winter.  Passing  through  woods  of  cork  and  evergreen  oak, 
fringes  of  the  Foret  de  Fedj  el-Makta,  we  come  to  the  Col  de  Fed} 
el-Makta  (tunnel),  the  watershed  between  the  Seybouse  and  the 
Medjerda  (p.  325). 

127  (or  60)  M.  Ain-Sennour  (2552  ft.).    The  forest-zone  is 


to  Souk-Ahras.  SOUK-AHRAS.  *9-  Route.     313 

succeeded  by  a  region  of  meadows,  fields,  and  vineyards.    To  the 
left  wc  sight  the  bare  mountains  to  the  N.  of  Souk-Ahras. 

134  (or  66y2)  M.  Souk-Ahras. — Railway  Restaurant—  Hotels. 
Hotel  d' Orient,  in  the  market-place,  with  good  restaurant,  R.,  de\j.,  D., 
2V2  fr.  each,  pens.  7'/2,  omn.  1  fr.,  quite  good;  Hot.  de  VUnivers,  similar 
charges;  Hot.  de  France. —  Cafe  de  Marseille,  in  the  market-placo. 

Souk-Ahras  (2297  ft. ;  pop.  9000)  lies  very  prettily  in  a  lofty, 
undulating  plain  enclosed  by  distant  hills.  It  is  a  rapidly  rising 
place,  with  quite  a  European  aspect,  and  is  one  of  the  pleasantest 
provincial  towns  in  Algeria.  It  dates  only  from  1852,  when  it  was 
founded  as  a  convenient  centre  for  roads  radiating  to  Constantine, 
Bona,  and  La  Calle,  and  as  a  mart  for  the  phosphates  of  Tebessa 
(p.  315).  It  stands  on  the  site  of  Thagaste,  the  birthplace  of  St.  Au- 
gustine (p.  310),  who  mentions  it  with  affection  in  his  Confessions. 
At  the  foot  of  the  old  castle -hill,  an  excellent  point  of  view,  are 
placed  a  few  antiquities  from  Khamissa  (see  below).  Cattle-breeding 
and  vine-culture  are  the  chief  industries  in  the  environs. 

The  Excursion  to  Khamissa,  about  23  M.  from  Souk-Ahias,  is  best 
made  liy  motor-car  as  far  as  Ksar  Tifech  and  thence  on  mule-back.  We 
follow  the  Sedrata  highroad  to  the  S.W.,  soon  crossing  the  Medjerda 
(p.  325).  About  halfway  we  enter  the  Plaine  de  Tifech,  watered  by  the 
Oued  Tifech  and  once  fertile  and  populous.  We  then  reach  the  Ksar  Tifech 
(3150  ft.),  on  the  slope  of  Jebel  Tifech  (3609  ft.),  with  the  ruins  of  a 
Byzantine  fortress,  the  most  considerable  relic  of  the  Numidiau  Tipasa. 
Thence  we  ride  to  the  N.W.,  in  the  direction  of  the  ancient  Roman  road, 
to  *Khamissa  or  Khemissa  (3081  ft. ;  no  inn),  the  interesting  site  of 
the  Roman  Thubursicum  Numidarum,  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  import- 
ant towns  in  Inner  Numidia.  It  lies  on  a  hill  high  above  the  valley 
of  the  Medjerda,  which  rises  a  little  to  the  N.W.  on  the  Rds  el-Alia 
(4321  ft.).  Among  the  ruins  may  be  noted  the  S.E.  Gate,  a  triumphal 
arch  with  a  single  passage,  on  the  Tipasa  road ;  near  it,  the  underground 
Columbarium  (hypogseuni) ;  the  Thermae;  and  also,  in  the  Platea  Vetus, 
the  chief  square  in  the  E.  quarter  of  the  town,  an  unfinished  Roman 
Temple  besides  other  buildings.  On  the  crest  of  the  hill  we  come  upon 
the  foundations  of  a  Byzantine  Basilica  and  a  small  Byzantine  Fortress 
('Ksar  el-Kebir').  On  the  N.  hill-side  is  the  Roman  Theatre,  with  its 
fairly  preserved  stage-building  (comp.  p.  293).  The  Forum,  on  the  W. 
margin  of  the  hill,  and  a  Tritimphal  Arch  with  three  passages  were  after- 
wards incorporated  with  a  second  Byzantine  Fortress.  All  around  are 
extensive  Burial  Grounds,  some  of  them  with  rock-tombs. 

From  Souk-Ahras  to  Tebessa,  see  R.  50;  to  Tunis,  see  R.  51. 


50.  Prom  Souk-Ahras  to  Tebessa. 

79>/2  M.  Narrow  Gauge  Railway,  in  5'/2-6l/2  hrs.  (14  fr.  35,  10  fr.  25, 
7  fr.  70  c. ;  1st  cl.  return  20  fr.  20  c.).  Railway  Restaurant  at  Clairefontaino 
only.    Morsott  is  preferable  to  Tebessa  for  night-quarters. 

Souk-Ahras,  see  above.  We  cross  the  Tunis  line  (R.51)  by  a  via- 
duct, and  descend  to  the  S.  into  the  valley  of  the  Medjerda  (p.  325), 
latterly  through  underwood  and  Aleppo  pines.   5  M.  Les  Tuileries. 

We  next  ascend  the  narrow  and  picturesque  side-valley  of  the 
Oued  Chouk,  through  pine  and  cork-oak  woods.    Beyond  (9  M.) 


314     Route  50.  MORSOTT.  From  Souk-Ahrag 

Oued-Chouk  (1975  ft.)  we  skirt  the  upper  course  of  the  stream, 
now  called  Oued  el-Hammam7  in  a  barren  hill-country,  and  at 
places  through  limestone  gorges,  bordered  with  Aleppo  pines. 

171j2  M.  Drda  (2634  ft.),  an  alfa  (esparto  grass)  station. 

From  Dr6a  we  may  visit  the  native  village  of  Mdaourouch  (3058  ft.), 
3  M.  to  the  S.E„  on  the  N.W.  slope  of  Jebel  Bou  Sessou  (35G6  ft.).  This 
was  the  ancient  Madaura  or  Madauros,  the  birthplace  (about  125  A.  D.) 
of  the  Boman  author  L.  Apuleius.  It  was  once  the  seat  of  a  famous 
school  of  oratory,  at  which  St.  Augustine  (p.  810)  was  educated.  On  its 
site,  where  there  are  relics  of  a  Roman  Mausoleum  and  the  foundations 
of  an  early-Christian  Basilica,  rises  the  conspicuous  Byzantine  Castle, 
dating  from  the  time  of  Solomon  (p.  315),  a  building  curiously  irregular 
in  plan,  partly  enclosed  by  later  (Berber?)  fortifications.  Large  Thermae 
also  have  been  recently  excavated. 

Beyond  Drea  we  traverse  fields  and  poor  pastures  to  the  S.W. 

221/,  M.  Mdaourouch  (2809  ft.;  no  inn),  the  highest  point  on 
the  line,  the  watershed  between  the  Medjerda  and  the  Mellegue 
(see  below).  In  the  vicinity  is  the  village  of  Montesquieu. 

A  field-road  leads  to  the  E.  from  the  station  to  (4'/2  M.)  the  village 
of  Mdaourouch  (see  above). 

Khamissa  (p.  313)  may  be  visited  from  Montesquieu  (see  above)  or 
Mdaourouch  if  we  are  fortunate  enough  to  find  mules  there.  We  follow 
the  Sedrata  highroad  to  the  W.  to  (9  M.)  the  caravanserai  (Bordj ;  2756  ft.) 
in  the  Plaine  de  Tifech  (p.  313),  whence  we  turn  turn  to  the  N.  to  (13  M.) 
Ksar  Tifech  (p.  313)  and  thence  go  on  to  (16  M.)  Khamissa. 

Beyond  Mdaourouch  there  are  long  stretches  of  bleak  steppe- 
like country.  The  train  descends  to  (30  M.)  Oued-Damous  (1982  ft.), 
in  the  valley  of  that  name.  It  then  skirts  the  Oued  Kebarit  and 
rounds  the  E.  slope  of  Jebel  Krdre'ga  (3251  ft.),  a  tableland  with 
scanty  woods  of  piue  and  arbor  vitse.  Far  away  to  the  left  rises 
Jebel  Ouenza  (4229  ft.),  with  the  largest  iron-mines  in  Algeria, 
owned  by  the  'Societe  d'Etudes  de  l'Ouenza'.  (Mineral-line  to  Bona 
or  to  Nebeur  projected;  comp.  p.  325.) 

We  now  ascend  the  valley  of  the  Oued  Mellegue.  To  the  right 
appear  the  bare  Kef  Bou  Djabeur  (2504  ft.)  and  Kef  Raghma 
(2700  ft.),  similar  in  type  to  the  hills  fringing  the  Sahara. 

38  M.  Clairefontaine  (2146  ft. ;  Buffet,  D.  3  fr.,  very  fair), 
an  important  alfa  station,  with  artesian  wells.    Sunday  market. 

Passing  between  Jebel  Mestoula  (3488  ft.)  on  the  right  and 
Jebel  el-Dzeroua  (3432  ft.)  on  the  left,  we  enter,  to  the  S.E.,  the 
valley  of  the  Oued  Chabrou.  To  the  S.,  above  the  steppe,  which  is 
overgrown  with  alfa  and  enlivened  by  browsing  camels,  rise  the 
ranges  of  Jebel  Metloug  (4111  ft.)  and  Jebel  Mzouzia  (4514  ft.). 

60  M.  Morsott  (2559  ft.;  Hot.  de  Lyon  or  Sivignon,  good 
cuisine),  below  Jebel  Hout  es-Srir  (3445  ft.),  a  thriving  European 
settlement,  with  its  Monday  market  and  alfa  trade,  is  the  starting- 
point  of  the  mineral-line  to  (9^2  M.)  Jebel  Bou  Kadra  (4734  ft.) 
and  the  iron-mines  of  the  Mokta  el-Hadid  Company  (p.  303). 

Here,  partly  seen  from  the  train,  are  relics  of  the  Roman  Vasampug: 
a  Gateivay  of  solid  masonry,  perhaps  that  of  a  temple-court;  Thermae, 


to  Tebeeta.  TEBESSA.  50.  Route.     315 

with  unusually  small  chambers;  and  two  Mausolea.  There  are  also  re- 
mains of  the  foundations  of  an  early-Christian  Basilica,  curiously  planned, 
4OV2  by  163/4  yds.  (three  portals  to  the  nave,  apse  with  four  side-recesses, 
baptistery  behind  the  choir-recess). 

69J/2  M.  Youks  les  Bains- Boulhaf  le  Dyr,  station  for  the 
baths  of  Youks-les-Bains  (p.  318),  7  M.  to  the  S.W.,  and  junction 
of  the  mineral-line  to  the  phosphate-beds  of  Jebel  Dyr  (4977  ft.). 
On  the  right  rises  the  'Chapeau  de  Gendarme1  (4393  ft.;  Arabic 
Jebel  bel-Khifeh),  whose  characteristic  form  we  do  not  see  until 
near  Tebessa.  A  line  of  rails  to  the  left  leads  to  the  phosphate- 
deposits  of  Ain-Kissa. 

In  the  foreground  appear  the  hills  of  Tebessa,  to  the  S.  Jebel 
Tenoukla  and  Jebel  Osmor  (p.  318),  and  S.W.  the  Jebel  Doukkan 
range  (5528  ft.).  Tents  of  the  nomads  are  often  seen  on  the  steppe. 
We  cross  the  Oued  el-Ke'bir,  as  the  Oued  Chabrou  is  called  here. 

7972  M.  Tebessa.— The  Station  lies  to  the  W.  of  the  town, 
outside  the  Porte  de  Constantine,  8  inin.  from  the  Place  d'Armes.  Omn. 
twice  daily. 

Hotels.  Hotel  d' Orient  &  de  la  MMropole,  Rue  Caracalla,  2  min. 
from  the  Arch  of  Caracalla,  R.  3-3V2,  B.  s/4,  dej.  2,  D.  3,  pens.  8-91/.,, 
omn.  1  fr. ;  H6t.  du  Cours,  Place  d'Armes,  unpretending,  but  very  fair. 

A  hasty  visit  to  the  sights,  in  the  following  order,  takes  2-3  hrs. — For 
the  description  of  Tebessa  comp.  also  Cagnat's  book  mentioned  at  p.  289. 

Tebessa  (2717  ft.;  pop.  5700,  mostly  Mohammedans),  a  poor 
town,  now  unimportant  except  as  the  centre  of  the  E.  Algerian  phos- 
phate trade,  was  the  ancient  Theveste,  one  of  the  most  prosperous 
towns  in  Inner  Numidia  from  the  Punic  period  (about  B.C.  250-200) 
onwards.  It  was  the  first  headquarters  of  the  Third  Legion  (p.  286) ; 
in  123  A.  D.  it  was  connected  with  Carthage  by  a  Roman  military 
road;  and  after  its  destruction  by  the  Berbers  it  was  re-founded  in 
535  by  Solomon,  the  general  of  Justinian  (p.  541).  Its  ruins  of 
the  late-Roman  and  Vandal  periods  are  among  the  finest  in  Barbary, 
but  as  they  lie  off  the  beaten  track  they  are  almost  forgotten. 

The  town  is  still  enclosed  by  the  Byzantine  Walls  built  by 
Solomon,  forming  a  rectangle  of  350  by  306  yds.,  with  fourteen 
towers,  two  gates,  and  a  sally-port  on  the  S.  side.  The  old  upper 
gallery  and  the  battlements  were  removed  in  1852  when  the  walls 
were  restored. 

The  modern  W.  Gate,  the  Porte  de  Constantine,  leads  first  to  the 
pleasant  Plack  d'Armes,  the  centre  of  traffic.  Two  minutes'  walk 
to  the  E.  of  this  is  the  so-called  Porte  de  Solomon,  the  most  inter- 
esting part  of  the  fortifications,  with  a  round-arched  passage  and 
two  square  towers  56  ft.  high.  Outside  of  it  the  natives  hold  market 
on  Tuesdays  and  Wednesdays. 

The  N.  Gate,  where  the  walls  project  a  little  on  both  sides,  is 
formed  by  the  *Arch  of  Caracalla,  dating  from  214  A.  D.,  once 
in  the  middle  of  the  far  more  populous  Roman  town,  but  now  at 
the  end  of  the  main  street  coming  from  the  Place  d'Armes. 


816      Route  60.  TEBESSA.  Basilica. 

This  arch,  resembling  the  Janus  Quadrifrons  at  Rome,  is  the  most 
imposing  Roman  monument  of  the  kind  in  Algeria,  rivalling  those  of 
Tripoli  (p.  408)  and  Leptis  Magna  (p.  412).  It  forms  a  square  of  about 
12  yds.  each  way,  with  four  round-arched  passages,  27  ft.  high  and  15  ft. 
wide.  Each  pillar  is  adorned  on  its  two  outer  sides  with  two  Corinthian 
pilasters  and  two  projecting  Corinthian  columns,  all  on  a  common  base. 
Of  the  sculptures  on  the  keystones  of  the  archways,  under  the  lavishly 
decorated  architrave,  there  are  preserved,  on  the  E.  side,  a  medallion  in 
high  relief  of  Minerva  and  a  Medusa,  and  on  the  W.  side  a  Fortuna  (goddess 
of  the  town)  and  an  eagle  holding  a  bundle  of  thunderbolts.  On  three 
sides,  in  the  middle  of  the  attica,  which  is  4  ft.  high,  there  are  Latin 
inscriptions  referring  to  Caracalla  and  his  parents,  Septimius  Severus  and 
Julia  Domna.  On  the  N,  side,  when  the  arch  was  restored,  there  was  added 
an  inscription  in  honour  of  Solomon.  On  the  S.  side  is  still  preserved  an 
aBdicula,  one  of  the  four  destined  for  statues  adjoining  the  central  dome. 
On  the  inner  side  of  two  of  the  pillars  are  long  inscriptions  from  the 
testament  of  C.  Cornelius  Egrilianus,   the  builder  of  the  triumphal  arch. 

The  highroad  now  descends  to  the  N.  to  the  (7  min.)  so-called 
**Basilica,  the  most  remarkable  early-Christian  ruin  in  Algeria, 
still  in  some  respects  an  enigma  to  archaeologists.  Built  mainly  of 
Roman  materials,  and  itself  used  for  centuries  as  a  quarry,  it  still 
forms  an  immense  quadrilateral  of  about  213  by  88-115  yds., 
systematically  excavated  for  the  first  time  in  1888-92.  The  oldest 
parts  of  the  edifice,  perhaps  of  the  late  4th  cent.,  are  believed  to 
be  the  basilica  and  the  memorial  chapel;  the  main  street,  the  court, 
and  the  'stable'  seem  to  belong  to  a  second  building  period,  perhaps 
also  prior  to  the  Vandal  era.  The  monastery,  with  its  fortfications, 
and  the  additions  to  the  memorial  chapel  date  probably  from  the 
Vandal  period;  the  small  'emergency  chapel'  is  perhaps  a  later 
Byzantine  addition.  The  custodian  (fee  x/s-l  fr.)  is  to  be  found  at 
the  little  house  near  the  E.  gate. 

The  E.  Gate,  the  old  main  entrance,  once  adorned  externally, 
in  the  style  of  a  Roman  triumphal  arch,  with  Corinthian  pilasters 
and  jutting  columns,  is  in  fair  preservation.  Thence  ran  the  paved 
Main  Street,  8  yds.  wide,  without  wheel-ruts,  past  the  Basilica 
on  the  right  and  the  court  and  'stable'  on  the  left,  to  the  W.  Gate, 
the  ancient  subsidiary  entrance. 

From  the  N.  side  of  the  main  street,  formerly  flanked  with  three 
colonnades,  a  flight  of  fourteen  steps,  9!/2  ft.  high  in  all,  ascends 
to  the  portico  of  the  Basilica,  which  was  once  preceded  by  eight 
columns.  Three  portals  here  opened  into  the  Atrium,  -the  square 
forecourt  of  the  church,  with  remains  of  the  Cantharus,  or  fountain 
of  purification,  in  the  centre.  Near  the  entrance-wall  are  two  side- 
rooms  whence  winding  staircases  ascended  to  the  upper  floor  and 
the  church  galleries. 

The  Church,  built  of  solid  masonry,  consisted  of  nave  and  two 
aisles,  50  by  24  yds.  in  all;  but  now  nothing  remains  save  the 
external  wall  of  the  left  aisle,  two  arcades  of  the  nave,  and  the 
choir-recess.  The  formation  of  the  arcades,  with  low  pillars  and 
Corinthian  columns  in  front,  is  peculiar.    The  site  of  the  choir- 


llneilica.  TEBESSA.  50.  Route.     31 7 

screen  and  of  the  base  of  the  altar  is  still  traceable.  Of  the  gal- 
leries, supposed  to  have  been  added  on  the  occasion  of  a  restor- 
ation of  the  church,  there  still  lie  fragments  of  the  columns  and 
imposts  all  around.    The  mosaic  pavement  is  covered  with  earth. 

From  the  front  part  of  the  right  aisle  twelve  steps  descend  into 
an  almost  square  outer  building  (25*/2  by  22  yds.),  contempor- 
aneous with  the  church.  The  middle  of  this  is  occupied  by  the 
Trichorum,  a  trefoil-shaped  hall,  with  three  rounded  apses,  prob- 
ably a  Memorial  Chapel,  resembling  the  early-Christian  cemetery- 
chapels,  and  dedicated  to  some  martyr  or  bishop  buried  under  the 
altar.    The  four  corner-rooms  served  as  Tomb  Chambers. 

Among  the  later  additions  of  the  Vandal  period  are  the  Square 
Chamber  on  the  S.  side  of  the  memorial  chapel,  which  also  was  used  as 
a  hurial-place,  with  its  small  ante-room,  and  the  Baptistery,  accessible 
only  from  the  atrium  by  three  steps,  containing  remains  of  the  old  font. 

To  the  same  period  belong  the  other  additions  to  the  basilica.  Ex- 
tending round  the  church  from  the  memorial  chapel  on  the  E.  to  the  W. 
side  of  the  atrium  are  twenty -seven  square  chambers,  partly  built  of 
heathen  tombstones ,  commonly  supposed  to  have  been  the  Monks'  Cells, 
though  unusually  large  for  that  purpose.  Between  these  and  the  castel- 
lated Monastery  Wall,  whose  towers  do  not  project  externally  in  the 
usual  Byzantiue  fashion,  probably  lay  the  Monastery  Garden,  which  was 
used  down  to  the  Moorish  period  as  a  burial-ground. 

Lastly  we  note  the  small  'Emergency  Chapel '  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
memorial  chapel,  a  small  church,  probably  hastily  built  subsequent  to 
the  irruption  of  the  Berbers  (p.  315),  with  nave  and  two  aisles,  portico, 
choirscreen,   rounded  apse,   and  a  square  sacristy  added  on  the  N.  side. 

The  Quadrangle,  60  by  46  yds.,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  main 
street,  formerly  called  the  forum,  was  once  divided  into  four  sections 
by  two  cross-ways  bordered  by  marble  balustrades.  In  spite  of  the 
unevenness  of  the  ground  these  sections  are  supposed  to  have  been 
basins  (watering-places  for  cattle  and  horses?),  the  water  being 
supplied  from  the  square  reservoir  still  existing  at  the  S.E.  corner 
of  the  quadrangle.  From  the  cross-ways  steps  ascended  to  narrow 
terraces  enclosing  the  quadrangle  on  three  sides,  that  on  the  S.  side 
being  a  porticus  of  twenty-two  columns. 

More  enigmatical  still  is  the  West  Building,  53  by  24  yds.,  a 
hall  with  three  aisles  borne  by  pillars.  This  was  afterwards  con- 
verted, by  the  insertion  of  two  low  partitions,  into  a  central  cham- 
ber of  three  aisles  with  eleven  two-storied  side -rooms  on  each 
side  of  the  outer  aisles.  The  curious  stone  boxes  or  troughs  (man- 
gers?) on  the  partitions,  together  with  the  holes  in  the  walls,  of  a 
kind  that  recur  in  many  Byzantine  buildings  (perhaps  for  the 
rings  to  which  horses  were  attached),  have  led  to  the  conjecture 
that  the  building  was  a  stable. 

The  small  building  behind  the  Porticus  of  six  columns  on  the 
N.  side  of  the  main  street,  opposite  the  so-called  stables,  contains 
similar  stone  boxes. 

The  Kubba  Sidi  Djaballah,  about  5  min.  to  the  N.  of  the  Basilica, 
near  the  Catholic  cemetery,  is  a  Koman  mausoleum  with  a  Moorish  dome. 


J 1 8     Route  BO.  TEBESSA.  Temple  of  Minerva. 

On  the  way  back  to  the  town  we  call  at  the  Bureau  des  Fonts 
ei  Chausse"es,  on  the  right,  a  little  off  the  road,  2  min.  before  the 
Arch  of  Caracalla,  to  ask  M.  Coggia,  the  curator,  for  the  key  of 
the  museum. 

The  so-called  *Temple  of  Minerva,  the  best-preserved  Ko- 
mau  temple  in  Algeria,  now  used  as  a  museum,  dates  from  the  3rd 
cent.  A.D.  The  only  relic  of  the  old  temple-court  is  the  gateway 
wall,  adorned  with  Corinthian  pilasters,  now  forming  the  facade  of  a 
zaoul'a  (Mohammedan  school)  in  the  main  street,  close  to  the  Arch 
of  Caracalla.  The  temple,  a  pseudo-peripteros  of  193/4  by  10  yds.,  on 
a  substructure  13  ft.  high,  is  in  a  side-street,  adjoining  the  N.  town- 
wall.  A  new  flight  of  twelve  (once  twenty)  steps  ascends  to  the  por- 
tico, with  four  Corinthian  columns  in  front.  The  structure  of  the 
temple  shows  many  of  the  peculiarities  of  African  provincial  art.  In- 
stead of  an  architrave  there  is  a  frieze  with  bulls'  skulls  and  eagles 
grasping  serpents ;  above  it  is  an  attica  in  similar  style,  overladen 
with  reliefs  but  without  a  cornice.  Instead  of  a  pediment  there 
was  probably  a  flat  terrace  on  the  summit.  The  present  roof  and 
the  whole  front-wall  of  the  cella  are  modern. 

The  Town  Museum  contains  antiquities  from  Tebessa,  Morsott,  etc. 
(catalogue  for  the  use  of  visitors).  In  the  court  are  relics  or  antique  and 
early -Christian  buildings,  inscriptions,  altars,  Saturn-stelae  and  tomb- 
stelaB,  some  of  them  with  bowls  on  the  pedestal  for  the  repasts  of  the 
deceased.  The  cella  contains  bronzes,  vessels  and  sculptures  in  clay,  etc. ; 
a  sarcophagus  with  the  Muses;  two  mosaics  from  the  baths  which  were 
removed  to  make  way  for  the  cavalry  barracks ,  one  with  Nereids  aud 
sea  monsters,  the  other  with  a  home-coming  ship  and  numbered  figures 
of  a  game  (bull,  ostrich,  gazelle,  boar,  etc. ;  comp.  p.  292). 

The  Catholic  Church,  at  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  town-wall, 
is  adorned  in  the  interior  with  a  few  fragments  from  the  Basilica. 
Thus,  over  the  high-altar,  are  remains  of  an  early-Christian  sar- 
cophagus with  three  curious  figures  in  relief  (Christian  Roma?). 

Environs.  The  Roman  Aqueduct,  647  yds.  long,  restored  in  turn 
by  the  Moors,  the  Turks,  and  the  French,  still  conveys  water  from  the 
spring  of  Ain  el-Bled.  —  About  l'/4  M.  from  the  Porte  de  Constantine 
(p.  315)  are  the  extensive  late -Roman  ruins  of  Tebessa  Khalia  ('Old 
Tebessa'),  the  nature  of  which  is  still  unexplained. 

Diligence  daily  to  (11  M.)  Youks-les-Bains  (2625  ft.),  with  'indifferent' 
hot  springs  (95°  Fahr.),  2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Meskiana  and  Al'n-Be'ida 
road  (p.  273). 

To  avoid  the  long  return-journey  from  Tebessa  to  Souk-Ahras,  we  may 
ride  or  drive  to  the  N.W.  via  (26  M.)  Haidra  (p.  362)  to  (40V2  M.)  Thcda 
(p.  362)  or  to  (371/jM.)  rail.  stat.  Kalad-Djerda  (p.  362).  A  mineral-line 
also  runs  thence  to  the  Algerian  frontier  and  the  phosphate-beds  on  Jebel 
Kouif  (3871  ft.;  leave  to  travel  by  it  is  usually  granted  by  the  manager). 

A  road  leads  to  the  S.W.,  past  Jebel  Osmor  (5052  ft.),  noted  for  its 
Punic  rock-tombs,  then  across  the  Tenoukla  Pass,  between  Jebel  Tenouklu 
(5118  ft.)  on  the  right  and  Jebel  Bou  Roumane  (p.  320)  on  the  left,  and 
past.  Bou-Chebka  (caravanserai),  to  (47  M.)  Feriana  (p.  371).  Diligence 
ria  Feriana  to  Gafsa  (p.  383)  in  two  days  (fare  30  fr.). 


VH.  TUNISIA. 


Route  Page 

Geographical    and  Historical   Sketch.     Preliminary 

Notes 319 

51.  From  (Constantine,  Bona)  Souk-Ahras  to  Tunis    .     .     325 

Thuburnica,  325. —  Simitthti.  From  Souk  el- Arba,  through 
the  Kroumirie,  to  Tabarca,  326.  —  From  Pout-de-Trajan 
to  Beja.    From  Beja  to  Tabarca.     Chaouach,  328. 

52.  Tunis 329 

a.  The  New  Town,  333,  — b.  The  Old  Town  (Djamfta  ez- 
Zitouna,  Souks,  Dar  el-Bey,  Kasba,  Mosque  of  Sidi 
Mahrez),  334.  —  c.  Environs  (Jardin  du  Belvedere,  the 
Manoubia  Hill,  the  Bardo,  etc.),  338. 

53.  Carthage 343 

Jebel  Khaoui,  351. 

54.  From  Tunis  to  Bizerta 351 

FerryvilLe.  Barrage  des  PSeberies,  352. — From  Tuuis  to 
Bizerta  by  road  (Utica,  Porto-Farina),  353. 

55.  From  Tunis  to  Dougga  (Le  Kef) 354 

Henchir  Maatria  (Numluli),  355.  —  From  Medjez  el-Bab 
to  Le  Kef,  3,">7. 

56.  From  Tunis  to  Le  Kef  and  Kalaa-Djerda    ....     358 

From  Bir-Kassa  to  La  Laverie,  358. — From  Smindja  to 
Zau'houan.  From  Tunis  to  Zaghouan  by  road.  Jebel 
Zaghouan,  359.  —  Maktar,  360. — Kalaat  es-Senam.  Haidra. 
From  Kalaa-Djerda  to  Kasserine  via  Thala,  362. 

57.  From  Tunis  to  Susa 363 

Jebel  Bou-Korniu,  363.  —  From  Fondouk  Djedid  to  Menzel 
Bou-Zelfa.  From  Soliman  to  Korbous.  From  Bir  Bou- 
Rekba  to  Nabeul,  364.  —  Takrouna.  Hergla,  365.  —  From 
Susa  to  Mehdia  via  Moknine,  369.  —  Cbebba,  370. 

58.  From  Susa  to  Kairwan 370 

From  Aln-Ghrasesia  to  Metlaoui  (Sbeitla,  Kasserine, 
Thclepte,  Feriana),  370. 

59.  From  Susa  to  Sfax 378 

60.  From  Sfax  to  Metlaoui  via  Gafsa 383 

From  Gafsa  to  El-Guettar,  385.  — Gorges  du  Seldja,  386. 

61.  From  Metlaoui  to  the  Djerid 386 

The  Djerid,  386.  —  Kebilli.    El-Hamma,  388. 

62.  From  (Sfax)  Graiba  to  Djerba  via  Gabes  andMedenine     388 

The  Monts  des  Ksour,  390. — Tatahouine,  391.  —  The  Is- 
land of  Djerba,  393. 


Tunisia,  the  eastmost  part  of  the  Maghreb  (p.  93),  a  territory 
of  about  50,000  sq.  M.,  has  a  population  of  ca.  iy2-2  millions, 
the  great  majority  being  Mohammedans  (Berbers,  Arabs,  Moors, 
Kulugli9,  and  negroes)     Of  the  remainder  about  60,000  are  Jews 

Baepf.ktcr's  Mediterranean.  21 


320  TUNISIA. 

(Arabic  Ihildi,  pi.  Ihild),  either  natives  or  settlers  (from  Spain  and 
the  so-called  Livornese),  105,680  Italians,  40,850  French,  12,200 
Maltese  (p.  397),  and  4800  other  Europeans.  The  coast,  about  620  M. 
long,  extends  from  Cape  Roux  (p.  131)  to  Rds  Adjir  (p.  406). 

The  abrupt  coast  of  the  Tell  Atlas  (p.  169),  which  stretches 
from  the  Fedja  Grandpre  (3783  ft.)  on  the  Algerian  frontier  to 
Cape  Blanc  (p.  129),  and  comprises  the  wooded  hill-country  of 
the  Kroumirie,  the  Nefza  and  Mogod  Mts.,  and  several  ranges  of 
lower  heights,  is  broken  by  the  small  coast-plain  of  Tabarca  alone. 
The  dunes  to  the  E.  of  Bizcrta,  rising  to  1033  ft.,  the  greatest 
range  of  sand-hills  on  the  Mediterranean',  separate  the  Lake  of Bi- 
zerta  from  the  Gulf  of  Tunis  (p.  xxx),  into  which  fall  the  Medjer- 
da  and  the  Oued  Miliane,  the  two  chief  rivers  of  the  country, 
forming  a  number  of  lagoons  and  tongues  of  land  at  their  mouths. 

The  Algerian  Sahara  Atlas  (p.  170)  extends  to  the  N.E.  from 
Jebel  Bou  Roumane  (5250  ft.)  and  Jebel  Zebissa  (4167  ft.)  near 
Tebessa  (p.  315)  to  Cape  Bon  (p.  153),  broken  by  stony  plateaux 
(Hammada,  Kalad,  Dyr),  and  finally  descends  abruptly  to  the  sea. 
Its  most  important  peaks  in  Tunisia  are  Jebel  Chambi  (5217  ft.), 
Jebel  Bireno  (4655  ft.),  Jebel  Rekaba  (or  Rds  Ali  Bou-Muuzine, 
4987  ft.),  Jebel  Serd  (4511  ft.),  and,  beyond  the  deep  depression 
of  Jebel  Faroua  (2362  ft.),  Jebel  Zaghouan  (4249  ft.),  which 
last  is  the  most  striking  landmark  for  mariners  in  all  Tunisia. 
The  S.  slope  of  the  Sahara  Atlas  is  remarkable  for  its  terraced 
formation  due  to  the  action  of  water.  The  whole  country  consists 
mainly  of  great  basins  with  floors  of  clay  or  sand  of  recent  origin, 
separated  from  each  other  by  elliptically  shaped  hills  of  more  solid 
rock,  chiefly  of  chalk  formation.  The  Oued  TIathob  (pp.  362,  370) 
flows  through  no  fewer  than  six  basins  of  the  kind. 

From  the  Gulf  of  Hammamet,  on  the  S.  margin  of  the  penin- 
sula of  Cape  Bon,  to  the  Lesser  Syrtis,  now  the  Gulf  of  Gabes,  ex- 
tends an  alluvial  plain  of  marine  formation.  This  steppe-like  tract, 
with  its  large  fresh-water  lake  (Lac  de  Kelbia,  p.  370)  and  many 
saltmarshes  (Sebkha,  comp.  p.  169),  is  thinly  peopled  by  nomads 
only,  except  on  the  strip  of  coast,  with  its  lagoons,  flanking  the  Sahel. 
To  the  W.  of  the  Gulf  of  Gabes  lies  the  region,  250  M.  long,  of  the 
Shotts  (Chotts  el-Fedjedj,  Djerid,  and  Rharsa),  belonging  to  the 
great  Bassin  du  Melrir  (p.  170) ;  it  forms  the  N.  fringe  of  the  desert, 
lying  largely  below  the  sea -level,  and  contains  the  finest  palm- 
oases  in  Barbary.  The  transition  from  the  shotts  to  the  highlands 
of  Tripoli  is  formed  by  Jebel  Tebaga  (1608  ft.),  and  by  the  Monts 
des  Ksour  (2460  ft.),  famed  ever  since  the  time  of  Herodotus  for 
their  troglodytes  or  cave-dwellers,  and  bounded  on  the  S.W.  by 
the  Erg  Oriental  (p.  285). 

Tunisia,  unlike  its  neighbour  Algeria,  which  is  shut  in  all  round 
by  high  mountains,  covered  with  snow  in  winter,  opens  due  E.  upon 


TUNISIA.  321 

the  Mediterranean  and  enjoys  a  mild  winter  climate,  but  in  summer 
and  autumn  is  directly  exposed  to  the  sirocco  (Arabic  Sam-Urn), 
the  burning  wind  from  inland  Africa,  which  is  hotter  and  drier  here 
than  in  Algeria.  The  mean  temperature  of  January  is  at  Tunis  51° 
Fahr.  (minimum  28V2°),  at  Ain-Draham  4272°  (min.  9y2°),  at  Le  Kef 
45  (min.  23°),  at  Kairwan  and  Tozeur  50°  (min.  25°),  at  Djerba 
541/2°  (min.  351j2°).  The  mean  temperature  of  August  at  Tunis  is 
81°  '(maximum  122°),  at  Kairwan  85°  (max.  120°),  at  Djerba  81° 
(max.  115°),  and  atj  Tozeur  reaches  91°  (max.  120°).  The  greatest 
rainfall  in  N.  Africa  is  in  the  region  of  the  Kroumirie  (65  inches 
per  annum  at  Ain-Draham);  to  the  S.  of  the  Medjerda  it  decreases 
to  20-24  inches  (at  Le  Kef  2V/2  in.);  it  is  still  lower  at  Tunis 
(173/4in.),  on  the  E.  coast  (Susa  16l/2,  Sfax  93/4  in.),  and  partic- 
ularly in  the  district  of  the  shotts  (at  Tozeur  5  in.).  The  rain  falls 
in  short,  torrential  showers;  owing  to  the  destruction  of  the  forests 
and  the  paucity  of  reservoirs  the  water  rushes  down  unhindered  to 
the  salt-lakes  and  the  sea,  inundating  the  plains  on  its  way.  A  few 
hours  after  each  shower  the  thirsty  soil  is  as  dry  as  before,  but  the 
devastation  caused  by  erosion  is  aggravated. 

The  fauna  and  flora  are  almost  identical  with  those  of  Algeria 
(p.  171).  The  chief  products  of  Tunisia  are  the  tanner's  bark  and 
cork  of  the  Kroumirie,  early  vegetables  from  the  environs  of  Tunis, 
cereals  from  the  Medjerda  valley  and  from  the  dales  of  the  Sahara 
Atlas  (here  horse  and  cattle  breeding  also  thrive),  alfa  or  esparto 
grass  (p.  171),  olive-oil  from  the  Sahel  and  from  Sfax,  and  dales 
from  the  oases  of  the  .Sahara.  Fish  abound  on  the  coast  and  the 
sponge  fishery  also  is  productive,  while  the  coral-fishing  has  sunk 
into  complete  insignificance.  The  principal  ores  worked  here  are 
zinc,  lead,  iron,  and  copper.  At  Kalaat  es-Senam,  Kalaa-Djerda, 
Metlaoui,  Redeyef,  and  A'in-Moulares  there  are  immense  deposits 
of  phosphate,  the  yield  of  which  has  rapidly  increased  the  traffic 
of  Tunis  and  Sfax,  and  is  expected  greatly  to  augment  that  of 
Siisa  after  the  completion  of  its  harbour. 

Tunisia  owes  its  ancient  culture,  the  earliest  in  Barbary,  to  its 
numerous  Phoenician  colonies,  such  as  Utica,  Kambe,  Hadrumetum 
(Susa),  Leptis  Minor,  and  Carthage.  The  Carthaginians  wisely- 
introduced  the  irrigation  system  of  Mesopotamia  into  N.  Africa 
and  promoted  the  corn  and  vine  culture,  but  the  agricultural  pros- 
perity of  the  country  was  confined  chiefly  to  the  littoral,  inhabited 
by  Libyan-Phoenicians,  a  mixed  Berber  and  Phoenician  race,  and  to 
the  valley  of  the  Medjerda.  The  contiguous  region  of  Numidia  was 
first  opened  up  to  Punic  culture  by  Masinissa  (B.  C.  201-149),  the 
most  distinguished  of  the  ancient  Berber  kings. 

The  Roman  republican  period  was  unfavourable  for  the  develop- 
ment of  the  new  province  of  Africa.  The  chief  events  were  the 
war  with  Jugurtha  (111-106),  the  grandson  of  Masinissa,  and  the 

21* 


322  TUNISIA. 

battles  between  Pompey,  whose  adherents  were  aided  by  Juba  I., 
and  Csesar,  which,  after  the  battle  of  Thapsus  (p.  369),  led  to  the 
annexation  of  Numidia  as  the  province  of  Africa  Nuva.  The 
marvellous  progress  of  the  country  during  the  first  centuries  of  the 
Roman  empire  is  evidenced  by  the  colonization  of  the  central 
Tunisian  and  S.  Algerian  steppe,  a  triumph  of  Roman  enterprise. 
A  great  network  of  roads  was  constructed,  chiefly  from  the  reign 
of  Hadrian  onwards,  to  connect  Carthage,  the  new  capital,  and 
other  towns  with  Tebessa,  Hippo  Regius  (p.  309),  Tripolitania, 
and  even  the  distant  Mauretania  Tingitana  (p.  95),  and  numerous 
towns  were  founded  in  the  interior  of  Tunisia  and  Numidia.  But 
soon  (about  238)  a  period  of  decline  set  in.  Its  causes  were  mani- 
fold. The  Berbers  were  constantly  rebelling,  the  Roman  soldiers 
quarrelled,  advancing  Christianity  and  expiring  paganism  were 
struggling  fiercely  for  the  mastery,  and  the  Christians,  at  length 
victorious,  persecuted  with  the  greatest  ferocity.  To  add  to  these 
troubles,  the  terrible  peasant-war  of  the  so-called  Circumcelliones 
broke  out  in  the  4th  cent.,  followed  in  the  4th  and  5th  cent,  by 
the  religious  wars  between  Catholics  and  Donatists. 

Once  more,  however,  the  ancient  glory  of  Tunisia  revived,  though 
for  but  a  brief  period  (439-77),  under  Genseric,  the  Arian  king  of 
the  Vandals.  After  he  had  completed  his  victorious  expedition  from 
S.  Spain  to  Carthage  (429-39)  he  proceeded,  in  alliance  with  the 
Donatist  Berbers  and  with  the  still  Punic  speaking  inhabitants  of  the 
coast,  to  attack  the  effete  western  empire.  With  his  newly  formed 
fleet  he  conquered  Sicily  (440),  Rome  (455),  Tripolitania,  Malta 
(458),  and  Sardinia  (458),  and  in  476,  after  the  overthrow  of  the  "W. 
Roman  empire,  was  recognized  by  Zeno,  the  E.  Roman  emperor, 
as  lord  of  the  whole  western  Mediterranean.  But  the  incompetence 
and  intolerance  of  his  successors  soon  shattered  this  new  empire, 
and  in  533  king  Gelimer  was  defeated  by  Justinian's  able  general 
Belisarius.  Even  in  Justinian's  time,  however,  the  new  rulers  were 
incessantly  attacked  by  the  Berbers  of  the  mountains,  while  the  By- 
zantine governors  (534-698)  persecuted  Donatists  and  Arians  alike, 
with  the  result,  according  to  Procopius's  estimate,  that  five  millions 
of  the  inhabitants  of  N.  Africa  perished.  The  fate  of  the  country 
was  thus  sealed  and  its  conquest  by  Islam  greatly  facilitated. 

After  eight  successive  campaigns  (647-98)  the  first  Arabian 
governors  (representing  the  caliphs),  Abdallah  ibn  Sadd,  Moauya 
ibn  Hodeij,  Sidi  Okba  ben-N&fi  (founder  of  Kairwan,  p.  372), 
Zoheir  ibn  Kdis,  and  Hassan  ibn  en-Noman  (destroyer  of  Car- 
thage, p.  346),  drove  the  Byzantines  out  of  'Ifrikia'  and  overcame 
the  desperate  resistance  of  the  Berber  mountaineers,  thus  sweeping 
Christianity  from  African  soil  and  destroying  the  last  vestiges 
of  Punic  and  Roman  culture.  Ere  long,  however,  their  ineradicable 
love  of  independence  led  the  Berbers,  who  after  the  conquest  of 


TUNISIA.  323 

Andalusia  (p.  50)  had  formed  the  sect  of  the  Kharijites  and  later 
that  of  the  Shiites,  to  unite  in  opposing  the  orthodox  Arabs  and 
to  found  (about  740)  several  small  states  of  their  own,  such  as 
that  of  the  Ibadites  in  Tiaret  (p.  208)  and  that  of  the  Sofrites  in 
Sijilmassa  (Tafllet,  p.  96).  In  Tunisia  the  Aglabides  (800-909), 
a  Berber  dynasty,  who  were  originally  governors  under  Harfin  er- 
Rashid,  declared  themselves  independent,  and  in  827  they  proceeded 
to  conquer  Sicily.  Under  the  Fatimites,  who  also  were  Berbers, 
the  seat  of  government  was  transferred  in  916  from  Kairwan  to 
Melulia  (p.  369),  and  in  973,  after  the  conquest  of  Egypt,  it  was 
removed  to  Cairo  (comp.  p.  443).  The  revolt  of  the  Zirites,  a  new 
dynasty  of  Tunisian  governors,  named  after  Bologgin  ez-Ziri,  led 
in  1045  to  the  fateful  irruption  of  the  Beni  Hilal  (Hilalides)  and 
Beni  Sule'im,  two  marauding  tribes  of  nomadic  Arabs.  At  the  in- 
stigation of  the  Fatimites  they  overran  Barbary  like  a  swarm 
of  locusts,  defeated  the  allied  Zirites  and  Hammadites  (p.  270), 
destroyed  Kairwan  and  many  other  towns,  demolished  most  of  the 
forests  and  the  irrigation-works,  and  drove  the  Berbers  back  to 
their  mountains.  After  a  time  the  Zirites  partly  succeeded  in  sub- 
duing these  hordes,  but  in  1148  the  whole  of  the  Sahel  with  its 
capital  Mehdia  was  wrested  from  them  by  the  Normans  of  Sicily 
(p.  148).  In  1160  the  Normans  were  expelled  by  Abel  el-Mumen 
(p.  95),  and  Tunisia  was  incorporated  with  the  great  empire  of 
the  Almohades.  At  length,  under  the  Hafsides  (1206-1573),  Tunisia 
r  gained  independence,  with  Tunis  as  the  capital.  Towards  the  end 
of  this  period  troubles  began  anew.  After  interminable  wars  with 
the  Merinides  (p.  95)  Tunis  was  captured  by  Kheireddin  (p.  221) 
in  1534,  and  was  attacked,  though  without  permanent  success,  by 
tin'  crusading  Maltese  knights  (p.  398),  by  Emp.  Charles  V.  (in 
1535),  by  Juan  de  Vega  (1551),  and  by  Don  John  of  Austria  (1573). 
From  1574  to  1650  Tunisia  was  governed  by  Turkish  officials 
(pashas,  deys,  beys),  after  which  the  dynasty  of  the  Husseinites 
was  founded  by  Hussein  Alt  ben-Turki.  From  1705  onwards 
Tunisia,  often  only  a  nominal  dependency  of  Turkey,  degenerated 
into  a  mere  pirate-state,  which  down  to  1830  took  an  active  part  in 
the  marauding  expeditions  of  its  barbaresque  Algerian  neighbours. 
Since  1881  the  French  protectorate  has  paved  the  way  for  a 
new  period  of  prosperity  and  opened  up  the  greatly  impoverished 
and  thinly  peopled  country  to  European  trade  and  culture.  The 
present  bey  is  Sidi  Mohammed  en-Nasr  (bom  in  1855).  The 
minister  for  foreign  affairs  is  the  French  resident-general,  and  the 
minister  of  war  is  the  commandaut  of  the  French  garrison.  Finance, 
postal  arrangements,  public  works,  and  education  are  all  superin- 
tended by  French  officials,  with  whom  are  associated  a  Mohammed- 
an prime  minister  and  a  secretary  of  state.  Europeans  and  their 
dependents  are  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  French  law-courts; 


324  TUNISIA. 

the  natives  are  dealt  with  by  the  courts  of  the  Ouzara  and  the 
'Shaara'.  The  bey  is  allowed  a  body-guard  of  600  men  of  the 
infantry,  cavalry,  and  artillery,  uniformed  like  the  Zouaves. 

Lovers  of  art  will  find  Tunisia  a  most  attractive  country.  As 
in  Algeria  and  Morocco,  so  here  also  the  megalithic  monuments 
(dolmens,  basinas,  etc.),  built  of  huge  blocks  of  stone,  are  the  chief 
memorials  of  the  Libyan  (or  ancient  Berber)  culture.  The  Punic 
art  of  Tunisia,  at  first  under  Assyrian,  Egyptian,  and  Greek  in- 
fluence, but  exclusively  Greek  after  the  first  campaigns  in  Sicily, 
has  become  better  known  of  late,  especially  since  the  rich  yield  of 
the  rock-tombs  of  Carthage.  Apart  from  the  tomb  at  Dougga 
(p.  355),  as  little  of  Punic  architecture  remains  as  in  Algeria.  On 
the  other  hand  no  other  country  can  boast  of  such  a  profusion  of 
Roman  ruins  (called  by  the  Mohammedans  Henshir)   as  Tunisia. 

The  early  Moorish  art  of  Tunisia,  as  in  the  whole  of  the  Maghreb, 
betrays  the  influence  of  Andalusian  masters,  but  most  of  the  build- 
ings are  no  earlier  than  the  Turkish  period.  Contrary  to  their 
Algerian  methods  the  French  have  preserved  the  Oriental  character 
of  the  country,  so  that  the  seaports  of  the  E.  coast,  Kairwan,  and 
the  oasis  villages  still  contain  fine  Moorish  buildings. 

Travellers  may  explore  any  part  of  the  country  in  safety  and  without 
escort,  but  they  should  not  enter  Mohammedan  burial-grounds  or  shrines 
(comp.  p.  xxv).  The  only  mosques  and  zaou'ias  open  to  Christians  (but 
not  to  Jews)  are  those  of  Le  Kef,  Kairwan,  Gafsa,  and  Tozeur. 

The  means  of  communication  are  similar  to  those  in  Algeria  (comp. 
p.  173).  The  network  of  Railways,  mostly  belonging  to  the  company  of  the 
Chemins  de  Fer  de  Bone-Guelma  (p.  173),  extends  to  central  Tunisia  only. 
Between  Susa  and  Sfax  (until  the  opening  of  the  new  railway)  and 
between  Sfax  or  Gra'iba  and  Gabes  the  motor-omnibus  or  the  diligence 
(p.  173)  is  at  present  the  only  conveyance.  The  shotts  are  visited  by  car- 
riage from  Metlaoui,  or,  if  preferred,  from  Gabes.  A  visit  to  S.E.  Tunisia 
(Monts  des  Ksour,  Gightis,  Djerba)  is  usually  paid  from  Gabes,  where 
introductions  had  better  be  obtained  from  the  authorities  of  the  Territoire 
Militaire.  Susa,  Sfax,  Gabes,  and  Djerba  are  also  steamboat-stations 
(comp.  R.  64).  In  Tunisia  mid-European  time  (1  hr.  ahead  of  Greenwich 
time),  which  is  observed  also  on  the  Italian  steamers,  has  recently  been 
introduced. 

First-class  Hotels  are  to  be  found  in  Tunis  only.  Those  in  country 
places  are  similar  to  the  Algerian  (p.  174),  but  still  plainer  and  less  up 
to  date,  apart  from  a  few  creditable  exceptions.  In  the  steppe  and  on 
the  Sahara  one  must  often  have  recourse  to  the  fortified  caravanserai  or 
to  the  hospitality  of  the  local  authorities. 

The  Post  Office  of  the  regency  of  Tunis  has  its  own  stamps  (letter- 
postage  within  Tunisia  or  to  France  10,  to  Italy  20  c.  etc. ;  post-cards  5  c). 
A  passport  vise  by  the  consul  must  be  shown  in  order  to  obtain  delivery 
of  registered  letters. 

The  Coinage,  since  the  introduction  of  the  gold  standard  (1891),  has 
been  French,  with  Arabic  and  French  inscriptions.  The  gold  coins  are 
of  10  and  20  francs,  the  silver  of  i/g,  1>  and  2  francs,  the  copper  of  5  and 
10  centimes.  Italian,  Swiss,  Belgian,  and  Greek  silver  coins  (except  5  fr. 
pieces)  and  copper  coins  are  rejected.  English  or  American  money  should 
be  exchanged  for  banknotes  of  the  Banque  de  France  or  the  Banque  de 
l'Algerie  (p.  174),  or  for  gold  of  the  Latin  monetary  union. 


GHARDIMAOU.  St.  Route.     325 

Books  (comp.  also  pp.  xii,  175).  Douglas  Sladen,  Carthage  and  Tunis 
(2  vols.,  London,  1906;  illus.);  Frances  JE.  tfesbitt,  Algeria  and  Tunis 
(London,  1906;  illus.);  G.  Petrie,  Tunis,  Kairouan,  and  Carthage  (New 
York,  1909;  $4.80);  A.  M.  Broadleifs  'Tunis,  Past  and  Present'  (London, 
1882)  gives  an  interesting  account  of  the  French  conquest  of  Tunisia.  Of 
French  books  may  be  mentioned  La  Tunisie  (Legislation,  Gouvernement, 
Administration)  by  D.  Gaudiani  et  P.  Thiaucourt  (Paris,  1910;  12'/2fr.); 
//.  Lorin,  L'Afrique  duNord  (Paris,  1908);  J.  Toutain,  Les  Cit6s  Romaines 
de  la  Tunisie  (Paris,  1896;  121/.i  fr.);  R.  Cagnat  et  H.  Saladin,  Voyage  en 
Tunisie  (Paris,  1887);  R.  Cagnat,  L'Armee  Romaine  d'Afrique  (Paris,  1892; 
40  fr.);  Charles  Dield,  L'Afrique  Byzantine  (Paris,  1896;  20  fr.);  H.  Sa- 
ladin, Tunis  et  Kairouan  (Paris,  1908;  4  fr.).  Carthage  is  the  scene  of 
Gust.  Flaubert's  historical  novel  Salammbo. 

Maps  of  the  Service  G6ographique  de  l\Armee  (comp.  p.  175):  sheets 
on  the  scale  of  1 :  50,000,  each  l'/2  fr. ;  on  the  scale  of  1 :  100,000,  each 
1  fr.  20  c;  and  on  the  scale  of  1:200,000,  each  70  c.  —  A  general  survey 
is  afforded  bv  the  Carte  des  Routes  et  des  Chemins  de  Fer  de  la  Tunisie, 
1:500,000  (Tunis,  1908).    See  also  Map,  p.  319. 


51.  From  (Constantine,  Bona)  Souk-Ahras 
to  Tunis. 

Railway  from  Souk-Ahras  to  Tunis,  154  M.,  direct  train  with  dining- 
car  between  Ghardimaou  and  Tunis  (dej.  4,  D.  41/"  fr-)  in  1  hrs.  (27  fr.  80, 
20  fr.  85,  14  fr.  90  c;  from  Constantine  to  Tunis  14V4hrs.);  also  ordinary 
train  in  ll'/j  hrs.  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  &  Frid.  —  Custom-house  examination 
at  Ghardimaou,  strict  as  to  tobacco  and  cigars,  which  are  a  government 
monopoly  in  Tunisia.  All  luggage  not  accompanied  by  the  owner  will 
be  detained  at  the  custom-house. 

Motorists  from  Bona  (p.  309)  to  Tunis  must  go  via  La  Calle  (p.  131), 
Tabarca  (p.  327),  and  Beja  (p.  328). 

From  Constantine  to  (13-4  M.)  Souk-Ahras,  see  RE.  48,  49. — 
The  line  from  Souk-Ahras  to  Tunis,  opened  in  1879  (before  the 
establishment  of  the  French  protectorate),  crosses  the  Tebessa  line 
(R.  50)  and  then  descends  to  the  S.  into  the  Medjerda  Valley 
(pp.  313,  320),  called  by  the  Carthaginians  Malcar,  and  by  the 
Romans  Bagradas,  the  most  fertile  and  most  important  in  Tunisia. 

Beyond  (b1/^  M.)  Tarja  (1611  ft.)  the  valley  forms  a  short  ra- 
vine. lO1/.,  M.  Sidi-Bader,  in  a  meadowy  dale,  the  future  junction 
of  the  line  from  Bona  to  the  mines  on  Jebel  Ouenza  (p.  314). 

The  train  traverses  a  lonely  mountain-region  to  (201/2M.)  Ouea- 
Mougras  (1171  ft.),  a  finely  situated  village,  and  then  runs  through 
a  narrow  valley  in  the  frontier-hills,  with  dense  underwood,  to 
(30V2  M.)  Sidi el-Hemessi  (853  ft.),  the  last  Algerian  village. 

37  M.  Ghardimaou  (673  ft.;  Rail.  Restaurant;  Hot.  du  Com 
nierce;  Algerian  and  Tunisian  frontier,  see  above),  a  colonists' 
village  (Tues.   market)   at  the  entrance  to  the  Rcgba,  the  upper 
plain  of  the  Medjerda,  which  is  fertile  only  in  rainy  seasons. 

About  7  M.  to  the  N.  of  Ghardimaou,  beyond  the  Oued  Rami,  lie& 
Henchir  Sidi  Ali  Bel-Kassem,  on  a  hill  between  the  Oued  el-Hammam 
and  the  Outd  Henja.  This  was  the  Roman  town  Thuburnica,  among 
the  ruins  of  which  are  the  cellaB  of  two  temples  and  a  Byzantine  fortress. 


326     Route  51.  BULLA  REGIA.         .  From  Souk-Ahra* 

45  M.  Oued-Meliz  (584  ft. ;  Mon.  corn-market),  a  village  a  little 
above  the  Oued  RaraY  (p.  325)  and  the  mouth  of  the  Oued  Meliz. 

Oued-Meliz  is  the  station  for  the  village  of  Chemtou  (590  ft.),  2  M. 
to  the  N.E.,  at  the  influx  of  the  Oued  Melah  into  the  Medjerda,  the 
Sirnitthu  of  the  Carthaginian  and  Roman  periods.  Its  once  famous 
quarries  of  yellowish  red  'Numidian'  marhle  are  now  abandoned.  Among 
the  ruins  are  a  Roman  bridge  across  the  Medjerda,  where  the  old  road 
to  Le  Kef  diverges  (p.  360);  also  remains  of  the  forum  (44  by  27  yds.), 
of  thermae,  cisterns,  and  an  aqueduct;  an  interesting  Roman  wall  on  the 
hank  of  the  Melah;  the  fairly  preserved  *Theatre;  and,  near  the  ancient 
Tabarca  road,  the  burial-ground  with  its  numerous  tombstones.  On  the 
slope  of  the  town-hill  (830  ft.),  which  is  crowned  with  a  small  Byzantine 
fortress,  lies  the  so-called  Temple  des  Bouclicrs,  of  the  Punic  and  Roman 
periods. 

50  M.  Sidi-Meslcine,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Regba,  between  Jebel 
el-Herrech  (2277  ft.)  on  the  left  and  Jebel  Bou-Rebbah  (2431  ft.) 
on  the  right.  The  train  now  enters  the  Dalda,  the  central  plain  of 
the  Medjerda,  about  25  M.  long,  partly  swampy  in  winter  and  ma- 
larious and  extremely  hot  in  summer,  which  from  ancient  times 
till  now  has  been  the  chief  granary  of  Tunisia. 

5772  M.  Souk  el-Arba  (470  ft.;  Rail.  Restaurant;  Hot.  du 
Commerce;  Hot.  de  France;  pop.  1500),  a  thriving  village  of  im- 
migrant farmers,  partly  built  with  materials  from  Bulla  Regia,  and 
named  after  its  Wednesday  ('fourth  day')  corn-market,  the  most 
important  in  N.  Tunisia  next  to  those  of  Beja  and  Mateur.  Road  to 
Le  Kef  (p.  360)  via  the  small  village  of  Nebeur,  the  terminus  of 
the  railway  from  Beja  (p.  328),  with  important  iron-ore  mines. 

From  Souk  el-Arba  a  field-road  leads  to  the  N.,  in  the  direction 
of  the  conduit,  somewhat  apart  from  the  Tabarca  road,  to  (4'/2  M.) 
Bulla  Regia,  the  prosperous  ancient  capital  of  the  Dakla  in  the 
Carthaginian  period,  and  in  203  the  scene  of  Scipio's  victory  over 
Hasdrubal  and  Syphax.  The  village  lies  on  a  terrace  on  the  S.  slope 
of  Jebel  Rebia  (2123  ft.)  and  owes  its  modern  name  Hammam- 
Darradji  to  its  spring.  Among  the  interesting  Roman  ruins  are 
the  large  * Thermae ;  a  * Nymphaeum,  or  fountain;  a  Temple  of 
Apollo,  an  opeu  court  with  three  cellse  in  the  style  of  Punic  sanc- 
tuaries (comp.  p.  357);  a  *Dwelling  House,  with  an  almost  intact 
groundfloor,  a  mosaic  pavement,  vaults,  and  stairs  to  the  upper 
floor.  The  Cisterns  now  serve  the  natives  as  habitations  and  the 
old  Byzantine  Fortress  is  now  a  caravanserai.  The  ruins  of  the 
Amphitheatre  are  '.ess  important.  Three  well-preserved  subterranean 
Palaces  and  a  Punic  Fortress  have  been  recently  excavated.  The 
rock-tombs  of  the  Necropolis  date  partly  from  the  Punic  period. 

From  Souk  el-Arba  to  Tabarca,  42  M.,  by  the  highroad.  (Diligence 
to  Ai'n-Draham,  in  summer  only,  at  1  p.  m.,  in  6  hrs. ;  from  A'in-Draham 
to  Tabarca  at  10.46  a.  m.,  in  6  hrs.,  there  and  back  6  fr.)  This  excur- 
sion, only  suitable  for  the  warmer  season,  introduces  us  to  the  most 
beautiful  parts  of  the  *Kroumirie,  'which,  thanks  to  its  ample  rainfall 
(p.  321),  is  the  most  richly  wooded  region  in  Barbary.  Now  and  then 
we    meet   with    an    almost  virgin  forest   of  cork-trees,    evergreen   oaks, 


to  Tunis.  TABARCA.  5/.  Route.     327 

elms,  ashes,  and  other  trees,  in  whose  shade  grow  luxuriant  ferns,  while 
babbling  brooks  refresh  the  wayfarer.  It  was  owing  to  violations  of  the 
Frontier  and  thefts  of  cattle  committed  hy  the  Kroumirs  that  the  French 
at  length  occupied  Tunisia  in  1881,  but  the  natives  are  now  peaceable 
herdsmen,  wood-cutters,  and  charcoal-burners.  The  tombs  of  this  Berber 
tribe  still  recall  the  ancient  megalithic  monuments  of  their  ancestors. 

The  road  ascends  to  the  N.W.  from  the  Dakla,  through  a  depression 
between  Jebel  el-Herrcch  and  Jebel  Rebia  (p.  326),  to  the  saddle  on  the 
N  B.  slope  of  Jebel  Halloufa  (1512  ft.),  and  then  turns  to  the  N.  into  the 
valley  of  the  Oued  Rzella,  a  feeder  of  the  Oued  Bou  Heurtma  (see  below). 
It  passes  (13  M.)  Fernava  (820  ft. ;  Restaurants  Dauteroche  and  Richetti) 
and  ascends,  soon  more  rapidly,  to  the  (19'/2  M.)  forester's  house  of 
Camp  de  la  Saute-  and  (20'/2  M.)  Les  Chines  (2461  ft.;  Hot.  des  Chenes), 
a  small  summer  resort  superbly  situated  amid  venerable  evergreen  oaks. 
The  road  descends  in  windings  for  a  short  time  and  then  ascends  again 
between  Jebel  Bir  (see  below)  on  the  right  and  KefSidi  Abdullah  (2861  ft.) 
on  the  left,  on  whose  slope  is  the  kubba  of  Sidi  Abdallah  Ben-Djemel, 
the  chief  saint  of  the  Kroumirs.  —  25y2  M.  Ain-Drahara  (about  2625  ft.; 
Hot.  de  France,  Hot.  Serrieres,  both  quite  good;  Mon.  market),  an 
agricultural  village  amidst  cork-trees  and  evergreen  oaks,  lies  in  the 
heart  of  the  Krourairie,  at  the  N.  base  of  *Jebel  Bir  (3327  ft.),  which 
commands  a  splendid  survey  of  the  Kroumirie  and  the  Nefza  Mts.  (p.  328), 
stretching  to  the  N.  to  the  sea,  to  the  N.W.  to  the  lakes  near  La  Calle 
(p.  131),  and  to  the  S.  to  the  Dakla. 

The  road  now  descends  across  the  Col  des  Ruines  (2382  ft.)  in  wind- 
ings to  (30'/2  M.)  Babouch  (1637  ft.;  frontier  custom-house),  a  village  of 
immigrant  farmers,  where  the  road  to  La  Calle  diverges  to  the  W.  (22V2M. 
from  Al'n-Draham;  diligence  5  fr.).  Our  road,  flanked  at  first  by  cork-trees 
and  then  passing  through  groves  of  olive  and  tig-trees,  now  descends  the 
picturesque  valley  of  the  Oued  el-Kebir,  the  ancient  Tusca,  the  boundary 
between  the  Roman  province  of  Africa  (p.  321)  and  Numidia. 

42  M.  Tabarca  (Hot.  Tiret,  plain  but  quite  good;  Hot.  de  France; 
pop.  1300,  of  whom  1100  are  Europeans;  Frid.  market),  a  quiet  little 
seaport  in  the  fertile  coast-plain  between  the  Oued  el-Kebir  and  Cape 
Tabarca,  was  the  Roman  Thabraca,  the  busiest  harbour  on  the  coast- 
road  between  Utica  (p.  353)  and  Hippo  Regius  (p.  309),  the  outlet  for  the 
marble  of  Simitthu  (p.  326)  and  for  the  timber  and  the  wild  beasts  of 
the  Kroumirie.  Hardly  a  trace  of  that  period  now  exists.  The  loftily 
situated  Turkish  Bordj  Djedid  is  now  used  as  barracks.  Opposite  lies 
the  bare  island  of  Tabarca,  rising  abruptly  on  the  N.  side,  with  a 
picturesque  old  Genoese  castle.  Of  the  two,  originally  Carthaginian,  quays 
connecting  the  island  with  the  mainland  the  westmost  has  lately  been 
restored,  bnt  the  shallow  harbour  is  scarcely  used  except  by  Sicilian 
fishermen.  The  steamers  of  the  Comp.  Gen.  Transatlantique  (p.  130) 
anchor  in  the  open  roads.  —For  the  future  railway  to  Mateur,  see  p.  352. 

From  Tabarca  to  Biija,  see  p.  328. 

64  M.  Ben-Bachir,  not  far  from  the  influx  of  the  Oued  Mel- 
legue,  the  ancient  Muluth,  and  of  the  Oued  Tessa  (p.  357)  into 
the  Medjerda.  We  cross  the  Oued  Bou  Heurtma,  the  Armasela 
of  the  Romans.    Fine  view  of  Jebel  Gorra  (p.  355). 

7172  M.  Souk  el-Khemis  (427  ft.;  'fifth-day  market'),  a  thriv- 
ing agricultural  village,  the  laigest  at  this  end  of  the  Dakla.  The 
valley  now  contracts.    7972  M.  iSidi-Zehili.  » 

87 '/2  M.  Pont -de -Trajan  (Rail.  Restaurant),  misnamed  after 
a  three-arched  *  Bridge  of  the  time  of  Tiberius,  99  yds.  long  and 
8  yds.  wide,  one  of  the  oldest  Roman  structures  in  Barbary. 


328     Route  51.  BEJA,  From  Souk-Ahras 

From  Pont-de-Trajan  to  Beja,  9  M.,  branch-line  in  24  min.  (1  fr.  45, 
1  fr.  10  c,  80  c).  The  line  ascends  the  bare  valley  of  the  Oued  Bija,  to 
the  N.  —  9  M.  B6ja  (715-1000  ft. ;  Hot.  de  France,  etc.;  pop.  12,000,  incl. 
1600 Europeans),  theVaga  of  the  Roman  period,  when  it  had  a  great  market 
and  was  one  of  the  most  thriving  places  in  the  Medjerda  valley,  owes  its 
present  prosperity  to  the  grain-trade  and  the  culture  of  early  vegetables. 
To  the  E.,  bordering  the  Avenue  de  la  Gare,  is  the  new  quarter  of  the 
Italian  and  French  farmers,  with  the  Halle  aux  Grams.  To  the  W.,  on 
the  slope  beyond  the  Oued  Bou  Zegdem,  rises  the  picturesque  old  town. 
On  its  N.E.  margin  the  Grande  Rue  leads  to  the  March.6  (cattle-market, 
Tues.)  and  to  the  Souks  (p.  335).  The  Grande  Mosque'e,  built  in  the  form 
of  an  Egyptian  cross  (p.  376),  one  of  the  oldest  in  Tunisia,  is  famed  for 
its  borrowed  wealth  of  ancient  Roman  capitals.  The  only  Roman  ruins 
are  the  Bab  el-Ain  ('fountain-gate')  and  relics  of  Thermae  and  of  a  Basin. 
The  Toivn  Walls,  with  their  many  towers,  were  originally  Byzantine,  but 
have  been  repeatedly  restored.  With  the  exception  of  the  'keep',  the 
Byzantine  fortress  on  the  top  of  the  hill  has  been  superseded  by  the 
Kasha,  built  largely  of  Roman  materials.  On  the  Bou  Hamdan  (1047  ft.), 
a  hill  1  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Beja,  lies  a  large  Punic  Burial  Ground,  with 
rock-tombs.  —  Railways  run  from  Beja  to  the  N.E.  to  3tateur  (p.  351)  and 
to  the  S.W.  to  Nebeur  (p.  326). 

The  picturesque  route  to  Tabarca  (45  M. ;  motor-omnibus  or  diligence) 
leads  to  the  N.  from  Beja,  past  the  zinc-mines  of  Jebel  Charra  (1414  ft.), 
and  through  the  now  treeless  valleys  of  the  Oued  Beja  (Oued  Djorfane 
in  its  upper  course)  and  the  Oued  Sersar.  It  next  passes  the  richest 
calamine  or  zinc-ore  mines  in  Tunisia  (Jebel  Damons,  Ain-Roumi,  Jebel 
Sidi  Ahmed)  and  leads  through  the  grand  ravine  of  Khanguet  Kef  Tout 
into  the  valley  of  the  Oued,  Modem.  25  M.  Djebel-Abiod  (Hot.  des  Nefzas, 
quite  good),  a  village  in  the  Nefza  Mts.,  famed  for  their  cork-tree  woods, 
their  abundant  game,  and  their  great  deposits  of  haematite.  (Railway 
from  Mateur  to  Djebel-Abiod,  see  p.  352;  thence  to  Tabarca  under  con- 
struction.) We  now  drive  to  the  W.,  between  Jebel  Kherouf  (2035  ft.)  on 
the  left  and  a  chain  of  *Dunes  (650  ft.)  on  the  right,  to  Rds  er-Radjel, 
and  cross  the  Oued  el-K6bir  to  (45  M.)  Tabarca  (p.  327). 

From  Pont-de-Trajan  to  Teboursouk  (Dougga),  see  p.  355. 

The  Medjerda,  in  its  sinuous  course,  then  forces  its  way  through 
the  hare  hill-country  below  Pont-de-Trajan.  For  a  short  distance 
the  train  runs  to  the  N.E.  into  the  side-valley  of  the  Oued  Zarga, 
stopping  at  (lOO^M.)  Oued-Zarga  (322  ft.),  and  then  returns  to 
the  E.,  through  hilly  country,  and  below  Toulcabeur  and  Chaouach 
(see  below),  into  the  valley  of  the  Medjerda. 

113  M.  Medjez  el-Bab  (197  ft.;  Hot.  des  Colons;  omn.  to 
the  diligence  office  30  c),  a  considerable  village  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Medjerda,  l1/^  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  station,  was  formerly  Mem- 
bressa,  a  busy  place  on  the  Roman  road  from  Carthage  to  Tebessa 
(p.  315).  The  eight-arched  Medjerda  Bridge  was  built  in  the 
18th  cent,  with  the  materials  of  the  Roman  bridge;  and  the  Roman 
Triumphal  Arch,  to  which  the  village  owes  its  name  ('ford  by  the 
gateway'),  has  lately  been  almost  entirely  demolished  for  a  similar 
purpose.    Important  corn-market  on  Mondays. 

On  the  slope  of  Jebel  Chaouach  (1778  ft.),  some  5V2  M.  to  the  N.W. 
of  Mefljez  el-Bab,  lies  Chaouach  (1480  ft.),  with  the  ruins  of  the  small 
Roman  town  of  Sua  (triumphal  arch,  nymphasum,  town-wall,  etc.).  About 
li/4  M.  to  the  W.  of  Chaouach  are  the  ruins  of  Toukabeur  (1221  ft.),  the 
Roman  Thuccabor,  with  its  ancient  cisterns,  gateways,  temple,  etc. 

From  Medjez  el-Bab  to  Teboursouk  and  Dougga  (Le  Kef),  see  R.  55. 


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to  Tunis.  TEBOURBA  51.  Route.      329 

The  train  now  proceeds,  generally  somewhat  apart  from  the 
tortuous  stream,  at  the  foot  of  bare  hills  (Jebel  He'idous,  Jebel 
Lansurine,  etc.),  to  (119  M.)  El-Heri  and  (122y2  M.)  Borclj  Town. 

133  M.  Tebourba  (133  ft.;  Hot.  Cafort,  R.  2,  B.  l/8j  D.  2V2, 
pens.  6  fr. ;  pop.  2000)  is  pleasantly  situated  among  olive-groves. 
On  a  height  (164  ft.)  crowned  with  the  kubba  of  Sidi  Bus-Allah, 
between  the  village  and  the  Medjerda,  are  the  scanty  ruins  of  the 
Roman  town  of  Tliuburbo  Minus.  About  1/2  hr.  to  the  S.  of  Tebourba 
lies  the  dam  or  *Bridge  of  El-Bulhan,  originally  Roman,  but 
restored  to  form  a  reservoir  for  watering  the  olive-trees.  Adja- 
cent are  a  small  manufactory  of  chechias  (a  kind  of  fez)  and  bar- 
racks.  Near  Tebourba  are  large  quarries  of  gypsum. 

139  M.  Djedeidu,  junction  for  Bizerta  (R.  54),  with  a  barrage 
and  an  agricultural  school  and  farm  of  the  Alliance  Israelite. 

The  train  crosses  the  Medjerda  and,  at  the  arches  of  the  *  Aque- 
duct of  Curthuge  (p.  348),  still  7l/2  M.  long,  the  watershed  between 
the  Medjerda  valley  and  the  undulating  plain  of  Tunis. 

148  M.  Lu  Manouba  (p.  342).  We  then  pass  Kassur-Su'id 
(on  the  left;  p.  342)  and  the  (150'/2  M.)  Burdo  (p.  339),  and  for 
a  short  time  skirt  the  N.  side  of  the  Sebkhu  es-Sedjoumi  (p.  332). 
Lastly  the  train  rounds  the  S.  edge  of  the  old  town  (Rebut  Bab- 
Djuziru,  p.  337)  and  passes  close  to  the  Manoubia  Hill  (p.  339) 
and  the  Zuou'iu  Sidi  Bel-Hassen  (p.  339). 

154  M.   Tunis  (Gare  du  Sud,  see  below). 


52.  Tunis. 

A k rival  by  Sea.  The  Quay  where  almost  all  the  steamers  (p.  331) 
are  berthed  is  10-15  mill,  from  the  hotels.  The  Douane  is  close  by.  It 
is  best  to  entrust  luggage  at  cuce  to  the  hotel  servants;  if  a  porter 
(hamal)  is  required  his  charge  should  be  asked  (usually  10  c.  for  small 
packages,  and  25  c.  for  each  trunk  carried  to  the  cab  or  omnibus).  Cab 
(into  the  town  1  fr.,  each  trunk  15  c.)   and'  tramway  (No.  1),  see  p.  330. 

Railway  Station.  Gare  du  Sud  (PL  E,  5;  Restaurant),  Place  de  la 
Gare  (Rue  es-S;idikia).  —  Railway  and  sleeping-car  office  in  the  town,  Konig 
&  Co.  (p.  331). 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  324;  often  full  in  Feb. -April).  *Tunisia  Palace 
Hotel  (PI.  c;  E,  4,  5),  Avenue  de  Carthage,  behind  the  Casino  Municipal 
(p.  331),  with  a  small  garden,  R.  4-10,  B.  l'/2,  dej.  5,  D.  7,  pens.  13-20,  omn. 
lVa-2  fr. ;  *H6t.  de  Paris  &  Imperial  (PI.  a;  D,  5),  Rue  al-Djazira  23bis, 
R.  3-6,  B.  iya,  dej.  3»/r*>  D-  4"5.  pens.  9-16,  omn.  without  luggage  1  fr.— 
*Grand-H6tel  (PI.  b;  1),  4),  Avenue  de  France,  R.  3i/2-6,  B.  iy2,  dej.  3V?, 
D.  4'/2,  pens,  from  10,  omn.  1  f r. ;  *H6t.  St.  Georges,  Avenue  de  Paris 
(N.  of  PI.  E,  2),  near  the  Belvedere  Park  (p.  338),  suitable  for  some  stay, 
R.  3-4,  B.  l'/2,  dej.  3,  D.  4,  pens.  9-12'/2  fr.  (with  dopendance  Hot.  Suisse, 
moderate);  Hot.  de  France  (PI.  d;  D,  5),  Rue  Leon-Roches  8,  quiet  site, 

?ens.  9-11,  omn.  1  fr.  —  Plainer:  HOt.  Eymon  (PI.  e,  D4;  'Gigino'),  Rue  de 
Eglise  1,  corner  of  Place  de  la  Bourse,  R.  3-4,  B.  3/4,  dej.  or  D.  2»/2,  pens. 
8fr.,  good;  Tunis  Hotel  &  de  Geneve  (PI.  f;  D,  4,  5),  Rue  d'ltalie  12, 
R.  2V2-6,  B.  »/4,  dej.  2-21/2.  D-  2V2-3,  omn.  l-l'/4fr.;  Hot.  d'Anoleterre, 
Ave.  Jules-Ferry  37,  R.  2Va-5,  B.  »/4>  dej.  2,  D.  2»/g,  pens.  7'/a,  omn.  l>/4fr.; 


330     Route  52 


TUNIS. 


Practical 


H6t.  Maison  Doree,  Rue  de  Hollande  10  (Pl.E,  5),  with  restaurant,  similar 
charges;  Hot.  Moderne  (Pl.g;D,  4),  Rue  de  Constantine  12,  corner  of 
Rue  de  Bone,  R.  from  3l/2'  dej.  or  D.  3,  pens,  from  9'/2  fr. ;  Hot.  de  la 
Poste,  Rue  d'Espagne  5  (PI.  D,  5).  — Hotels  Garnis.  H6t.  Bellevue 
(PI.  h;  D,  4),  Rue  cs-Sadikia  1;  Hot.  Regence  (dcpendance  of  the  Hot. 
Eymon),  Ave.  de  France,  R.  3-8,  B.  1  fr. ;  Splendid  Hotel,  Ave.  Jules- 
Ferry  74;  Royal  Hotel,  Rue  d'Espagne  19,  R.  from  3  fr. ;  Hot.  Central, 
Ave.  de  Paris  8;  Family  Hotel,  Rue  d'Ailemagne  15  (PI.  D,  5),  near  the 
inarche  (p.  333),  plain.  —  Furnished  Rooms  (20-70  fr.  per  month)  abound. 

Cafes.  Cafi  du  Casino,  in  the  palmarium  of  the  Casino  Municipal 
(p.  331),  with  a  summer  terrace  in  the  Ave.  Jules- Ferry;  Cafe- Restaurant 
de  Tunis,  Ave.  de  France  2,  in  the  Hot.  Bellevue,  much  frequented;  Cafi 
de  Paris,  same  street,  No.  16.  Arabian  cafes  (p.  174)  in  the  Halfaouine 
quarter  (PI.  B,  2),  at  the  Bab  Djedid  (PI.  C,  6),  etc.  —  Confectioners. 
Fngerer,  Place  de  la  Bourse  1 ;  Wagner  &  Co.,  Rue  d'ltalie  24,  and  Ave. 
de  Paris  8;  Montelateci,  Ave.  de  France  7. 

Restaurants.  *Brasserie  du  Phe'nix,  Ave.  Jules-Ferry  74,  in  the 
Splendid  Hotel  (see  above);  Cafe-Restaurant  de  Tunis,  see  above;  Sal- 
varelli,  Ave.  de  Franoe,  adjoining  the  Grand-Hotel;  3Ia.reville,  Ave.  Jules- 
Ferry  63  (dej.  or  D.  l'/a  "•)>  Maison  Doree,  in  the  hotel  (see  above); 
Restaurant  du  Rosbif,  Ave.  Jules-Ferry  56;  Restaurant  de  la  Poste,  Rue 
d'Augleterre  8. 

Carriages.  Voiture  de  Place  ^JS*6 


Drive  (course)  in  the  town  (petite 
banlieue) 

Outside  the  town,  up  to  8  kilo- 
metres (5  M.) 

Hour  in  the  town 

Hour  outside  the  town      .     .     . 

Day  (12  hrs.) 


With  one  horse 


(2-3  pers.: 
0.80 


(4  pers.) 
0.90 


With 

two 

horses 

1.— 


1.60 


2.50  2.70  3.—  4.50 

1.30  1.50  1.80  2.40 

1.80  2.—  2.40  3.20 

12.—  12.—  15.—  20. 

The  chief  limits  of  the  inner  town  are  the  Bardo  and  the  Belvedere 
Park.  From  10  p.m.  to  7  a.m.  (or  in  April-Sept.  11-5)  a  fare  and  a  half 
is  charged.  During  festivals  and  races,  and  also  for  long  drives,  bargain 
advisable.  Small  packages  free;  trunk  15  c.  —  There  are  also  Taximeter 
Motor  Cabs  (comp.  tariff). 

Motor  Cars.  Auto -Palace,  Rue  d'Autriche  Prolongee  3;  Garage 
Peyrard,  Rue  de  Belgique  10;  Tunisienne  Automobile,  Rue  de  Greee. 

Tramways  (fares  by  zones,  from  5  c.  upwards;  also  transfer-tickets), 
from  6  a.m.  to  9  p.m.:  1.  Porte  de  Finance  (PI.  D,  4),  Ave.  Jules-Ferry 
(PI.  E,  4),  Ave.  du  Port,  Harbour.  —  2.  Porte  de  France,  Rue  al-Djazira 
(PL  D,  5,  6),  Ave.  Bab-Djedid  (PI.  D,  C,  6),  Place  de  la  Kasba  (PL  B,  5).— 
3.  Porte  de  France,  Rue  des  Maltais  (PL  D,  4),  Place  Bab-Souika  (PL  B, 
C,  3),  Kasba.  —  4.  Rue  al-Djazira  (Rue  d'Algerie;  PL  D,  6),  Rue  es-Sadikia 
(PL  D,  5;  Gare  du  Sud),  Rue  de  Rome  (PL  D,  4),  Ave.  de  Paris  (PL  E,  4, 
3),  Place  Bab-Souika,  Bab  Bou  Saadoun  (PL  A,  2).  —  5.  Place  Bab-Souika 
(PL  B,  C,  3),  Bab  Bou-Saadoun,  Bardo  (p.  339;  every  »/4  hr.,  15  c),  La 
Manouba  (p.  342;  every  1/2  hr.,  30  c). —  G.Porte  de  France,  Rue  des 
Maltais  (PL  D,  4),  Bab  el-Khadra  (PL  C,  2),  Cimetiere  Municipal,  Belve- 
dere Park  (p.  338;  Ave.  Carnot,  15  c.).— 7.  Rue  de  Rome  (PL  D,  4),  Ave. 
de  Paris  (PL  E,  4-2),  Belvedere  Park  (Rond-Point;  every  10  or  15  min., 
15  c. ;  on  week-days  there  and  back  25  c),  Ariana  (p.  338;  every  '/a  hr., 
30  c.).  — 8.  Ave.  de  France  (PL  D,  4),  Ave.  de  Carthage  (PL  E,  5-7),  Bab 
Alleoua  (PL  E,  7),  Abattoirs  (to  the  S.  of  PL  E,  7).  — For  the  electric  tram- 
ways to  Carthage  and  La  Marsa,  see  p.  343. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (PL  D,  5),  Rue  d'ltalie  30;  branches  on 
the  quay  and  in  the  Place  Bab-Souika. 


Notes.  TUNIS.  62.  Route.      331 

Steamboat  Agents.  For  the  Camp.  Gin.  Transatlantique  (RR.  21, 
22),  Banque  de  Tunisie,  Rue  es-Sadikia  3,  and  on  the  Quai  Ouest;  for 
the  Societd  Naziovale  (RR.  25,  26,  64),  Florio,  Rue  d' Alger  1;  for  the 
Comp.  de  Navigation  Mixte  (RR.  21,  26,  64),  Ave.  Jules-Ferry  and  Quai 
Ouest;  for  the  Hamburg- American  Line,  the  Hungarian  Adria,  and  the 
German  Levant  Line,  Siebert  &  Co.,  Rue  d'ltalie  5bis;  for  the  North 
German  Lloyd,  Heckmann,  see  below. 

Tourist  Offices.  Eisen  (travel  and  sport),  Rue  Leon -Roches  6; 
KOniy  ife  Co.,  Rue  es-Sadikia;  Peruul.l  &  Myddleton,  Ave.  Jules-Ferry  39; 
R.  Heckmann  (Universal  Tourist  Office),  Ave.  de  Carthage,  opposite 
Tunisia  Palace  Hotel;  Lubin,  Ave.  de  France  5.  —  Comiti  d'Hivernage, 
Ave.  de  Carthage  8. 

Consuls.  British  Consul-General,  E.  J.  L.  Berkeley,  Place  de  la 
Bourse  (PI.  D,  4);  vice-consuls,  Chas.  A.  Goodwin,  R.  Schembri. —  U.S. 
Vice-Consul,  A.  J.  Proux,  Ave.  de  France. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Domela,  Ave.  Jules-Ferry  72;  Dr.  Valetta,  Rue 
d'E.spagne;  Dr.  Zammit,  Rue  Aniilcar  (all  three  speak  English);  Dr. 
Jot  ggy,  Rue  d'Autriche;  Mile.  Dr.  Gordon,  Rue  de  Rome  18.  —  Chemist. 
Heyii  r.  Ave.  Jules-Ferry  54  (Theatre  Rossini,  PI.  E,  4). 

Baths.  Dublineau,  Rue  d'Allemagne  17  (PI.  D,  5;  well  fitted  up; 
bath  l'/a,  Turkish  3  fr.);  Bains  Francais,  Rue  de  Suisse  8;  Bains  Maures 
(comp.  p.  175),  Ave.  Bab-Menara. 

Banks  (comp.  p.  174).  Banque  de  V Algirie,  Rue  de  Rome  18;  Comp. 
AlgArienne,  Rue  de  Rome ;  Banque  de  Tunisie,  Rue  es-Sadikia  3 ;  Comptoir 
d'  Escompte  de  Paris,  Ave.  de  France;  Cooperativa  Italiana,  Rue  es-Sadi- 
kia 7:  Krieger,  Rue  al-Djazira  45. 

Goods  Agents.    Meyer,  Porte  de  France  35;  Dana,  Rue  es-Sadikia  9. 

Booksellers.  Nierat  &  Fortin,  Ave.  de  France  15,  and  Saliba.  No.  17. 
— Photographs  (and  photographic  materials).  Lehnert  &  Landrock,  Ave. 
do  France  17,  and  Garrigues,  No.  9;  Neuer,  Rue  Leon-Roches  6;  Vella,  Rue 
d'Allemagne  4.  —  Newspapers.  Depeche  Tunisienne,  Tunisie  Fravcaise, 
■  (Ital.  and  Fr.).  —  Shop  for  European  goods,  Magasin  Giniral, 
Ave.  de  France  22  (fixed  prices).  Oriental  goods  at  the  Muste  Ahmed 
Djamal,  Souk  el-Attarin  11  and  Rue  d'Autriche  108;  Pohoomvll  Fr'eres, 
Ave.  de  France  17.  The  Oriental  articles  in  the  Souks  (pp.  335-337)  and 
even  the  fezes  (chechia)  are  mostly  of  European  make  and  may  be  bought 
cheaper  at  home.  Important  purchases  should  not  be  made  without  the  aid 
of  a  friend  who  knows  the  country  and  its  ways  (bargaining  necessary). 
The  services  of  touts,  guides,  and  hotel  servants  should  be  declined,  as 
they  tend  to  raise  prices. 

Theatres.  Thidtre  du  Casino  Municipal,  in  the  Casino  Municipal 
(see  below),  entrance  in  the  Ave.  Jules-Ferry,  for  operas  and  operettas, 
15th  Nov.  to  15th  April;  Theatre  Rossini  (PI.  E,  4),  Ave.  Jules-Ferry  48, 
for  Italian  and  French  dramas.  —  Casino  Municipal  (PI.  E.  4),  Ave.  de  Car- 
thage 1,  with  hall  for  concerts  and  varieties  ('Palmarium'),  a  summer 
terrace,  card-rooms,  and  American  bar.  The  Pavilion  du  Belvedere,  in 
the  park  of  the  Belvedere  (p.  338),  is  the  summer  casino  of  the  same 
company.  —  Band  on  Sun.  and  Thurs.  afternoons,  Place  de  la  Residence; 
on  Wed.  in  front  of  the  Cercle  Militaire. 

English  Church.  St.  George's  ('Egl.  anglic.';  PI.  C,  3),  Rue  Bab- 
Carthagene  39,  service  at  10.  15  a.  m. 

Sights.    Bardo  Museum,  same  as  Musee  Alaoui,  see  below. 

Bardo  Palace  (p.  340),  week-days,  at  any  hour;  tickets  at  the  Husde 
Alaoui  (comp.  below). 

Bibliotheque  Francaise  (p.  333),  week-days  9-11  and  2-4  (in  summer 
8-11  only). 

Ddr  el-Bey  (p.  336),  daily,  9-11  and  3-5;  fee  '/•>-!  fr- 

Jardin  d'Essais  (p.  338),  daily  8-11  and  1-5  (April-Oct.  7-11  and  3-6). 

Musie  Alaoui  (p.  340),  daily  except  Mon.  and  great  Catholic  festi- 
vals 9.30-11.30  and  1-4  (16th  Feb.  to  15th  Oct.  2-5),  1  fr.  (Sun.  free);  the 
same  ticket  admits  to  the  Bardo  Palace  also,  if  visited  on  the  same  day. 


332     Route  .52.  TUNIS.  Situation. 

Two  Days.  1st.  Forenoon,  Ave.  Jules-Ferry  and  Ave.  de  France 
(p.  333) ;  walk  through  the  Souks  of  the  Medina  (p.  335)  and  the  adjoining 
Mohammedan  Quarters  (p.  334);  visit  to  Place  el-Halfaouine  (p.  337). 
Afternoon,  Bardo  Museum  (p.  340)  or  Belvedere  Park  (p.  338),  or,  by 
carriage,  both.  — 2nd.   Excursion  to  Carthage,  see  R.  53. 

Tunis,  Ital.  Tunisi,  capital  of  the  Regence  de  Tunis,  and  seat 
of  the  French  Kesident-General  (p.  323)  and  of  the  Mohammedan 
university,  is  the  largest  city  in  N.  Africa  after  Cairo  and  Alexandria, 
and  vies  with  Sfax  as  a  most  important  harbour.  Population  about 
200,000,  of  whom  about  115,000  are  Mohammedans,  22,500  Jews, 
41,000  Italians,  14,000  French,  5400  Maltese,  and  250  Greeks. 

The  town  lies  in  36°47'  N.  lat.  and  10°10'  W.  long.,  on  the 
E.  margin  of  the  narrow  tongue  of  land  (rising  to  190  ft.)  between 
the  Lac  de  Tunis  (or  Lake  Bahira,  p.  129)  and  the  small  salt- 
lake  Sebkha  es-Sedjoumi,  an  old  lagoon.  The  central  part  of 
the  sea  of  houses  composing  the  old  town  is  the  Medina,  the  old- 
est Moorish  quarter,  built  largely  out  of  the  ruins  of  Thunes, 
Carthage,  and  TJtica,  and  now  the  chief  focus  of  trade  and  industry. 
Adjacent,  to  the  N.  and  S. ,  are  two  poor  quarters,  also  chiefly 
Mohammedan,  the  Rebat  Bab-Souika  and  Rebat  Bab-Djazira, 
formerly  N.  and  E.  suburbs.  The  monotonous  European  new  town 
in  the  low  ground  to  the  E.  of  the  Medina,  exposed  in  summer 
to  the  exhalations  of  Lake  Bahira,  is  gradually  extending  from 
the  Porte  de  France  (formerly  Bab  el-Bahar,  sea-gate)  towards 
the  harbour.  On  the  brow  of  the  hill  to  the  W.  of  the  old  town  are 
the  old  Kasba  and  most  of  the  public  buildings,  almost  all  built  un- 
der the  French  protectorate.  Some  of  these  lie  outside  the  Turkish 
town-wall,  once  6000  yds.  long,  erected  in  the  17th  century. 

Tunis,  the  ancient  Thunes,  a  Berber  name  given  to  an  earlier  Phoeni- 
cian colony,  appears  in  history  in  508  B.C.  as  an  ally  of  Carthage.  In 
395  it  was  destroyed  by  rebellious  Berber  tribes.  It  was  from  Thunes 
that  Agathocles  (p.  163)  and  Regulus  (p.  345)  advanced  against  Carthage, 
and  here,  after  the  first  Punic  war,  the  discontented  mercenaries  from 
Sicca  Veneria  (p.  360)  established  themselves.  Tunis  was  probably 
destroyed  by  the  Romans  at  the  same  time  as  Carthage  (146  B.C.)  and 
rebuilt  later.  After  the  downfall  of  Carthage  Utica  (n.  353)  entered  into 
the  heritage  of  her  proud  neighbour,  but  for  a  short  time  only;  for  from 
29  B.C.  onwards  Carthage  resumed  her  ancient  supremacy  and  continued 
to  flourish  down  to  her  second  destruction  in  698  A.D.  This  time  Tunis 
was  her  natural  successor.  But  the  nomadic  Arabs,  being  ignorant  of 
navigation,  and  the  Aglabides  (p.  323)  preferred  Kairwan  (p.  372),  which 
had  recently  been  founded  in  the  heart  of  the  Tunisian  steppe;  and  the 
succeeding  Fatimite  and  Zirite  dynasties  favoured  the  Sahel,  with  Mehdia 
(p.  369)  as  their  new  capital,  to  the  detriment  of  N.  Tunisia.  At  length,  under 
the  Hafsides  (1206-1573 ;  p.  323),  Tunis  became  the  capital,  and  rapidly 
grew  to  be  the  greatest  and  fairest  city  in  the  land,  as  well  as  a  zealous 
promoter  of  the  glorious  Moorish  art  and  science  of  the  13th  and  14th 
centuries.  The  most  distinguished  of  the  Hafside  sovereigns  was  Abu 
Abdallah  Mohammed  el-Mostanser  Billah,  who  in  1270  defended  his  capital 
successfully  against  Louis  IX.,  the  Saint  (p.  346).  After  the  decline  of 
that  dynasty  at  the  close  of  the  15th  cent,  and  the  capture  of  Tunis  by 
Kheireddin  (p.  221)  in  1534,  the  city  was  attacked  by  the  Spaniards  in 
three  different  campaigns  (p.  323),   and  was  conquered  four  times  by  the 


New  Town.  TUNIS.  «2-  Route.      333 

Turks  and  the  Algerians  (in  1569,  1578,  1689,  and  1757);  yet  in  the  17th 
and  L8th  centuries,  thanks  to  its  Oriental  trade  and  the  booty  of  its  pirates, 
it  again  enjoyed  great  prosperity. 

The  only  mediaeval  buildings  in  the  old  town  which  have  survived 
all  these  vicissitudes  are  three  mosques,  now  much  modernized.  The 
distinctive  character  of  the  present  town  is  of  Mauro-Turkish  origin. 
Those  who  cross  the  threshold  of  the  Orient  here  for  the  first  time  will 
be  specially  struck  with  the  narrow  and  crooked  lanes  of  the  Mohamme- 
dan quarters,  only  12-16  ft.  wide,  with  the  motley  crowd  in  the  Souks 
(]i.  835),  and  with  the  picturesque  concourse  of  all  the  tribes  of  N.  Africa 
and  the  Sahara.  The  poor  Jewish  quarter  (p.  337)  is  less  interesting. 
Tho  strange  costume  of  the  women,  with  their  kufias  or  sugar-loaf  hats, 
loose  jackets,  and  tight-fitting  trousers,  is  now  rarely  seen  except  on 
members  of  the  older  generation,  while  the  pretty,  old-fashioned  costume 
of  the  girls  is  a  thing  of  the  past. 

John  Howard  Payne  (b.  1792),  author  of  'Home,  Sweet  Home',  was 
United  States  consul  at  Tunis  from  1842  until  his  death  in  1852. 


a.   The  New  Town. 

From  the  Harbour  (Port;  see  inset  map,  PI.  E,  1),  which  to 
gether  with  the  Bahira  Canal  (p.  129)  was  constructed  in  1888-96, 
the  short  Avenue  du  Port  (tramway  No.  1,  p.  330)  leads  through  the 
Piccola  Sicilia,  a  group  of  workmen's  huts,  into  the  town,  endiug 
at  the  bronze  statue  of  Jules  Ferry  (1832-93),  the  French  states- 
man who  brought  about  the  occupation  of  Tunisia. 

The  Avkntje  J  ules-Fkkry  (PI.  E,  4),  or  Avenue  de  la  Maeise, 
the  finest  street  in  the  new  town,  66  yds.  wide  and  710  yds.  long, 
is  planted  with  double  avenues  of  fig-trees.  On  the  left,  just  beyond 
tin  divergence,  to  the  right  and  left,  of  the  unfinished  Avenue  de 
Palis  (p.  338)  and  Avenue  de  Carthage  (Pl.E,  5-7),  which  together 
are  2'/4  M.  long,  rises  the  Casino  Municipal  (PI.  E,  4;  p.  331). 

The  Ave.  Jules-Ferry  ends  at  the  Place  de  la  Residence  (PI. 
D,  4;  band,  see  p.  331),  the  centre  of  the  new  town.  To  the  left, 
on  the  S.  side,  rises  the  Palais  de  la  Residence  (PI.  D,  E,  4), 
or  Maison  de  France,  built  in  1856-60  for  the  French  consulate 
(see  p.  334),  and  tastefully  remodelled  in  1890-2  by  Dupertuys 
as  a  dwelling  for  the  resident-general.  The  beautiful  garden  is  not 
accessible.  Opposite  the  Residence  is  the  Cathedral  (PI.  D,  4), 
erected  in  1893-7.  The  Rue  es-Sadikia  leads  to  the  S.  from  the 
W.  end  of  the  square  to  the  Garc  du  Sud  (p.  329). 

The  Ave.  Jules-Ferry  is  continued  by  the  much  narrower  Avenue 
de  France  (PL  D,  4),  intersecting  the  older  European  quarter,  the 
favourite  promenade  of  the  town.  A  little  to  the  S.  of  it,  in  the 
Rue  d'ltalie,  which  leads  to  the  Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI. 
D,  5),  is  the  Marched  (Pl.D,  5;  interesting  from  7  to  10  a.m.). 

In  the  Rue  de  Russie,  the  southmost  street  in  this  quarter,  is 
the  BibliolhUque  Francaise  (PI.  D,  5;  adm.,  see  p.  331),  which  is 
well  supplied  with  literature  relating  to  N.  Africa. 


334     Route  52.  TUNIS.  Djamda  ez-Zitoima. 


b.   The  Old  Town. 

At  the  W.  end  of  the  Ave.  de  France  (p.  333),  the  starting- 
point  of  several  tramway-lines  (see  p.  330),  is  the  Porte  de  France 
(p.  332),  and  beyond  it  lies  the  Place  de  la  Bourse  (PI.  D,  4), 
which  presents  a  busy  scene  all  day.  In  and  near  this  square  are 
most  of  the  Consulates  (British  among  others),  as  during  the 
Turkish  period.  The  old  French  Consulate  (about  1650  to  1860), 
which  served  also  as  a  warehouse  (fondouk),  is  at  No.  15  Kue  de 
l'Ancienne-Douane. 

To  theW.  from  the  Place  de  la  Bourse  run  the  two  chief  thorough- 
fares of  the  Medina.  To  the  right  is  the  Rue  de  la  Kasba  (PI.  D, 
C,  4,  5;  p.  336),  leading  past  the  Jewish  quarter  (p.  337)  and  the 
Souk  el-Crrana  (PI.  C,  4)  to  the  upper  boulevards  (p.  336),  to 
which  it  is  the  chief  approach.  To  the  left  is  the  Rue  de  l'Eglise 
(PI.  D,  C,  4,  5),  leading  direct  to  the  Souks  of  the  Medina,  the  main 
business  street  of  the  Christian  merchants  in  the  Turkish  period. 

We  follow  the  Rue  de  l'Eglise.  On  the  left  is  the  small  church 
of  Ste.  Croix  (PLC,  D,  4,  5;  1662),  to  which  the  street  owes  its 
name.  Then,  on  the  right,  is  the  Administration  des  Habous,  the 
headquarters  of  the  Mohammedan  pious  foundations.  Lastly  we 
pass  through  a  vaulted  passage  under  the  Direction  des  Antiquites. 

The  Rue  de  l'Eglise  ends  at  the  Rue  de  Djamaa  ez-Zitouna,  on 
the  E.  side  of  the  chief  mosque,  the  Djamaa  ez-Zitouna  (PLC, 
5),  which  is  said  to  trace  its  origin  to  the  tomb  of  St.  Oliva  of 
Palermo,  a  Christian  saint  revered  even  by  many  Mohammedans. 
The  mosque  was  founded  in  732  by  Obei'd  Allah  ibn  el-Habbab, 
enlarged  by  the  Aglabide  Sijadet  Allah  I.  (p.  374),  and  repeatedly 
altered  under  the  Hafsides.  When  Tunis  was  plundered  by  the 
troops  of  Emp.  Charles  V.  the  mosque  was  used  as  a  stable.  Since 
then  the  edifice  has  been  much  modernized,  and  is  lavishly  adorned 
with  spoils  from  Carthage.  The  chief  portal,  behind  the  colonnade 
in  the  Rue  de  Djamaa  ez-Zitouna,  where  on  Fridays  the  clergy 
receive  the  Sheikh  ul-Islam,  or  supreme  pontiff,  and  the  side- 
portal  in  the  Souk  des  Etoffes  (p.  335)  have  each  an  ornamental 
ancient  pillar  as  a  lintel.  The  many-aisled  interior,  with  its  161 
columns  and  two  domes  over  the  nave,  is  similar  in  plan  to  the 
Sidi  Okba  Mosque  at  Kairwan  (p.  374).  The  new  minaret,  145  ft. 
high,  erected  in  the  Andalusian  style  by  Si  Slimdn  Ennigro  in 
1894,  is  a  free  copy  of  the  old  tower.  The  pile  of  buildings  is 
best  surveyed  from  the  roof  of  the  Dar  el-Bey  (p.  336). 

The  mosque  serves  also  as  a  lecture-room  for  the  Mohammedan 
University.  The  instruction  is  under  the  direction  of  the  Sheikh 
ul-Islam;  there  are  about  a  hundred  teachers  and  400  students. 
Admittance  to  the  twenty-two  medersas,  or  colleges,  for  students 


Souks.  TUNIS.  52.  Route.      335 

from  other  parts  of  the  country,  and  to  the  library  famed  for 
7000  Oriental  MSS.  is  granted  to  none  but  Mohammedans. 

The  Zitouna  Mosque  lies  in  the  region  of  the  *Souks  (PI.  C, 
5;  Arabic  silk,  market),  the  market  quarter  of  the  Medina,  dating 
from  the  Hafside  period  (13th  cent.).  As  usual  in  the  East  the 
lanes  are  roofed  over.  The  small  narrow  shops  are  shut  in  by  a 
counter,  over  which  the  trader  swings  himself  into  his  seat  with 
the  aid  of  a  rope.  Most  trades  have  their  own  streets.  It  is 
interesting  to  watch  the  people  at  work  in  those  souks  where  the 
wares  are  made  on  the  spot.  The  larger  bazaars  in  some  of  the 
streets  are  designed  solely  to  attract  foreigners.  The  busiest  time 
is  the  early  morning.  Friday  is  the  Mohammedan,  and  Saturday 
the  Jewish  day  of  rest.  As.  to  purchases,  see  p.  331.  In  and  near 
the  Souks  are  many  small  Arab  coffee-houses  and  barbers'  shops. 

From  the  Rue  de  Djamaa  ez-Zitouna  we  turn  to  the  right  to  visit  the 
Souk  el-Attarin,  the  spice-market,  founded  in  1249.  Besides  the  spices 
and  perfumes  sold  here  (such  as  essence  of  jasmine  and  rose-geranium, 
sometimes  palmed  off  on  strangers  as  attar  of  roses),  we  observe  amber, 
dried  henna-leaves,  henna-powder  (p.  108),  and  the  big  candles,  often 
branched,  which  are  used  at  weddings  and  for  the  tombs  of  saints.  — 
The  side-street  to  the  right,  opposite  the  N.  side  of  the  mosque,  is  the 
Souk  1  l-Blay/jia.  for  leather-wares. 

At  the  W.  end  of  the  spice-market,  to  the  Left,  opposite  the  Rue  Sidi 
Ben-Arous  (see  below),  is  the  Souk  des  Etoffes,  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
mosque,  with  its  display  of  silk  and  woollen  stuffs,  carpets  from  Kairwan, 
and  rugs  from  the  Djerid  (p.  380)  and  from  Djerba  (p.  393). 

Adjoining  the  Souk  des  Etoffes  is  the  busy  Souk  des  Femmes,  the 
only  one  frequented  by  Mohammedan  women,  where  female  apparel, 
trinkets,  and  slippers  of  Saftian  leather  (p.  109)  are  sold. 

Between  these  two  souks  the  Souk  el-Leff'a  (PL  C,  5),  off  which,  on 
the  right,  is  the  Souk  el-Kebabdjia  (lace),  leads  to  the  *Souk  Sekajine, 
the  saddle-market,  where,  among  gorgeous  caparisons  embroidered  in  gold 
and  silver,  we  are  specially  struck  with  the  ornaments  worn  by  horses 
at  the  fantasias  (p.  ,99). 

We  return  to  the  Souk  el-Leffa.  Thence,  to  the  left,  we  follow  the 
short  Souk  ed-Dziria,  past  the  Hopital  Sadiki  (PI.  B,  C,  5),  destined 
for  natives,  to  the  — 

Rue  Sidi  Ben-Ziad,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Dar  el -Bey  (p.  336).  The 
small  Sidi  Youssef  Mosque  ('MosqueV;  PI.  C,  5),  belonging  to  the  Hane- 
fites  (p.  445),  with  the  handsome  tomb  of  the  founder  and  an  octagonal 
minaret,  dates  from  1610-37.  —  At  the  lower  end  of  the  street,  where  the 
Souk  el-Bey  branches  off  to  the  left  to  the  Place  de  la  Kasba,  we  turn 
to  the  right  into  the  — 

Souk  el-Berka,  the  slave-market,  which  was  abolished  only  in  1842. 
Down  to  1816  Christians  captured  by  the  pirates  were  sold  here  by  auction. 
This  is  now  the  seat  of  the  silversmiths,  goldsmiths,  and  dealers  in  anti- 
quities, mostly  Jews.  The  best  of  their  gold  trinkets  are  from  Paris ;  the 
fine  silver  filigree  is  Genoese  or  Maltese;  the  ancient  coins  are  often 
spurious. 

From  the  Souk  el-Berka  the  Souk  el-Trouk,  the  street  of  the  tailors, 
almost  all  Jews,  who  make  the  rich  costumes  of  the  Moslems,  leads  back 
to  the  Souk  el-Attarin. 

From  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  Zitouna  Mosque  the  Rue  Sidi  Ben- 
Arous  leads  into  the  Rue  de  la  Kasba  (p.  334).  At  the  junction  of 
these  streets,  adjoining  the  burial-chapel  of  Mohammed  Murad 

Baldeker's  Mediterranean.  22 


336     Route  52.  TUNIS.  Ddr  el-Bey. 

Bey  (d.  1705),  is  the  Hanefite  Mosque  of  Sidi  ben-Arous  (PL  0, 5), 
of  1654,  similar  in  plan  to  that  of  Sidi  Youssef  (p.  335),  with  an 
elegant  minaret. 

The  Rue  de  la  Kasba  ends  at  the  Place  de  la  Kasba  (PI.  B, 
C,  5),  with  its  charming  grounds. 

On  the  S.  side  of  this  square  rises  the  Dar  el-Bey  (PI.  B,  C, 
5),  the  largest  pile  of  buildings  in  the  Medina,  erected  in  1810  on 
the  foundations  of  a  Roman  theatre  (?)  by  Moroccan  architects  under 
Hamuda  Bey  as  his  town-palace.  It  is  now  the  seat  of  the  French 
secretary-general  and  other  authorities.  The  Bey  usually  comes 
hither  on  Monday  mornings  from  La  Marsa  (p.  351)  for  the  trans- 
action of  business.  Admittance,  see  p.  331.  The  entrance  is  by  the 
portal  where  a  sentry  is  posted. 

The  covered  quadrangle  (patio)  on  the  first  floor  forms  the  centre  of 
the  palace.  The  fine  timber  ceiling  in  the  dining-room  is  the  only  object 
of  interest  in  the  state  apartments.  The  council-chamber  of  the  ministers 
has  a  dome  with  remarkaoly  tine  stucco-work.  Here,  as  in  the  Bardo  and 
at  Kassar-Sai'd,  the  effect  is  marred  by  European  gewgaws. 

Fine  *View  from  the  flat  roof  over  the  white  houses  of  the  town, 
the  Zitouna  and  many  smaller  mosques.    Best  light  at  and  after  noon. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Place  de  la  Kasba,  at  the  junction  of  the  two 
upper  boulevards  Bab-Benat  (PL  B,  4;  p.  337)  and  Bab-Menara 
(PL  B,  C,  5,  6),  the  old  town  culminates  in  the  Kasba  (PL  B,  5), 
an  extensive  group  of  barracks  on  the  site  of  the  palace  of  the  Haf- 
sides  and  the  Turkish  citadel.  The  Kasba  Mosque,  with  its  fine 
minaret,  well  restored  in  1904,  dates  from  1231-5. 

Near  the  old  Bab-Menara,  where  the  Souk  des  Sacs  diverges  to 
the  reservoir  of  the  waterworks  (p.  339),  is  the  small  Mosquie  el- 
Ksar  (PL  C,  5),  the  oldest  in  Tunis,  said  to  have  been  founded  by 
Hassan  ibn  en-N6man  (p.  322).  The  handsome  minaret  (1545)  is 
an  addition  of  the  Turkish  period. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  mosque  runs  the  Rue  du  Chateau.  No.  3 
is  the  Division  d'Occupation  (PL  C,  5),  the  seat  of  the  French 
commandant,  formerly  the  *Ddr-Hussein  (18th  cent. ;  well  restored 
in  1876),  one  of  the  finest  Mauro-Turkish  palaces  in  Tunis.  (Adm. 
by  special  introduction  only.) 

The  Rue  des  Andalous  (PL  0,  5),  which  begins  here,  and  its 
side-street  Rue  du  Riche  are  the  aristocratic  streets  of  the  Medina. 
Many  of  the  houses  have  elegant  marble  portals  and  artistically 
grated  windows.  Parallel,  on  the  E.,  leading  to  the  Avenue  de 
Bab-Djedid,  runs  the  long  Rue  Tourbet  el-Bey,  in  which  at  No.  62, 
at  the  corner  of  the  Rue  Sidi-Zamouhl,  rises  the  Tourbet  el-Bey 
(PL  C,  6),  the  domed  tomb  of  the  Husseinites  (p.  323;  ladies  some- 
times admitted). 

The  Rue  Sidi  Kassem,  the  next  side-street  on  the  left,  leads  to 
the  Djamda  Djedid  ('new  mosque'),  or  Mosquee  des  Teinturiers 
(PL  C,  5,  6),  founded  by  Hussein  Ali  ben-Turki  (p.  323).  The  modern 
minaret  is  by  Si  Slinian  Ennigro  (p.  334). 


Sidi  Mahrez  Mosque.  TUNIS.  52.  Route.      337 

The  open  space  near  the  dilapidated  Bab  Djedid  (PL  C,  6), 
dating  from  1277,  is  an  afternoon  haunt  of  snake-charmers  and 
story-tellers  (5-10  c.  to  the  boy  soliciting  money). 

Between  the  Bab  Djedid  and  the  Place  aux  Chevaux  (PI.  B,  6; 
p.  339)  is  the  Market  Quarter  of  Rebat  Bab-Djazira  (p.  332), 
containing  the  Souk  el-Adssar,  the  Souk  des  Armes,  and  the  Mar- 
che-au-Ble. 

From  the  Bab  Djedid  we  return  to  the  Place  de  la  Kasba 
(p.  336;  tramway  No.  2,  see  p.  330). 

In  the  Boulevard  Bab-Benat,  in  an  old  Moslem  cemetery  on 
the  right,  is  the  Tekia  (PI.  B,  4,  5),  a  home  for  the  aged  (1905). 
On  the  left,  founded  in  1876,  is  the  ColUge  Sadiki  (PI.  B,  4),  a 
high  school  for  Moslems.  Farther  on  rises  the  handsome  Palais 
de  Justice  (PI.  B,  4;  1901).  These  two  buildings  are  in  the  neo- 
Moorish  style. 

"We  may  now  proceed  direct  to  the  Place  Bab-Souika  (see  below; 
tramway  No.  3,  p.  330) ;  but  it  is  better  to  take  the  less  direct  route 
through  the  N.W.  part  of  the  Medina,  by  the  Rue  du  Lutteur  (di- 
verging to  the  right  from  Boul.  Bab-Benat,  a  little  before  the  Palais 
de  Justice),  Rue  du  Pacha  (PL  B,  4),  Rue  de  la  Hafsia  (PI.  B,  C,  4), 
Rue  Achour  (PI.  C,  B,  4, 3 ;  with  the  Hanefite  Mosque  of  Sidi  Mo- 
hammed Bey  on  the  left),  Rue  el-Monastiri,  and  Rue  Sidi-Mahrez. 

On  the  left,  in  the  last-named  street,  rises  the  *Mosque  of 
Sidi  Mahrez  (PI.  B,  3),  with  several  domes  in  the  Turkish  style, 
built  in  the  latter  half  of  the  17th  cent.,  resembling  in  the  interior 
the  Ahmed  Mosque  of  Constantinople  (p.  550).  The  square  minaret 
was  added  early  in  the  19th  century.  —  On  the  right  is  the  school 
or  Zaou'ia  Sidi  Mahrez. 

The  picturesque  Place  Bab-Souika  (PI.  B,  C,  3)  lies  between 
the  Medina  and  the  poor  Rebat  Bab-Souika  (p.  332).  Executions 
took  place  here  in  the  Turkish  period.  The  Rue  el-Halfaouine 
('alia  street'),  partly  vaulted  over,  and  lined  with  butchers'  shops, 
leads  hence  to  the  lively  and  industrious  — 

Place  el-Halfaoulne  (PI.  B,  2),  with  its  numerous  Arab  cafes, 
where  on  Mohammedan  festivals,  such  as  Ramadan  (p.  447)  and 
Bairam,  the  evenings  and  nights  are  spent  in  mirth  and  frolic.  On 
the  W.  side  is  the  Djamda  Sahab  et-Taba  (PI.  B,  2),  one  of  the 
largest  mosques  in  Tunis,  founded  on  blocks  of  stone  from  Carthage. 
The  Souk  el-Djedid  on  the  N.  side  is  for  silk  wares. 

Time  permitting,  we  may  glance  at  the  Rue  des  Potters  (PI.  C,  3), 
seat  of  the  once  noted  pottery  of  Tunis,  or  at  the  Jewish  Quarter 
{Hara;  PI.  C,  3, 4),  in  the  N.E.  part  of  the  Medina.  The  chief  Syna- 
gogues (visitors  admitted)  are  in  the  Impasse  es-Snadli,  at  the  corner 
of  Rue  Sidi-Mardoun,  in  Rue  Zarkoun  (PL  C,  D,  4),  etc. 

The  interesting  Old  Jewish  Cemetery  (PL  D,  E,  3),  just  outside 
the  old  town,  is  entered  from  the  Rue  du  Cimetiere-Israelite. 

22* 


338     Route  52.  TUNIS.  Jardin  du  Belvedere. 

c.  Environs. 

1.  About  l'/4  M.  to  the  N.  of  Tunis  lies  the  *Jardin  du  Bel- 
vedere, laid  out  in  1892,  the  most  popular  promenade  in  the  en- 
virons, well  shaded  with  palm-trees,  but  still  unfinished.  The 
grounds  cover  250  acres  on  the  slope  of  Belvedere  Hill  (269  ft.), 
which  was  fortified  in  the  Turkish  period.  The  chief  entrance  is 
at  the  Rond  Point  at  the  end  of  the  Ave.  de  Paris  (p.  333 ;  tramway 
No.  7,  p.  330),  and  there  is  a  side-entrance  (tramway  No.  6)  in  the 
Ave.  Carnot,  near  the  Pcpinie're  Municipale  (nursery-ground)  and 
the  Cimeti&re  Municipal  (opened  in  1883). 

Halfway  up,  above  the  main  entrance,  rises  the  Pavilion  du 
Belvedere  (cafe;  fine  view  from  the  terrace).  On  the  S.  slope  of 
the  hill,  1/i  M.  from  the  Avenue  Carnot  and  concealed  amid  the 
thick  vegetation,  is  the  Mida,  the  ruin  of  a  mosque-court  brought 
from  the  souks  of  the  Medina.  Farther  up  is  the  *Pavillon  de  la 
Manouba,  a  freely  restored  Moorish  garden-pavilion  from  the  Pa- 
lais de  la  Manouba  (pp.  342,  343),  with  fine  ornamentation  in  stucco 
and  a  charming  view.  The  top  of  the  hill  affords  a  splendid  *Pan- 
orama,  especially  towards  evening.  To  the  S.  is  the  old  town  with 
the  Kasba,  the  Manoubia  Hill,  and  Fort  Sidi  Bel-Hassen;  more  to 
the  right,  beyond  the  Sebkha  es-Sedjoumi,  rise  the  distant  hills 
of  Zaghouan;  to  the  E.  lies  Lake  Bahira  with  the  island  of  Chikly, 
the  Ship  Canal,  and  the  little  towns  of  Goletta  and  Rades,  backed 
by  the  Gulf  of  Tunis  and  Cape  Bon;  then,  more  to  the  N.E.,  rise 
the  hills  of  Carthage,  with  the  cathedral  and  Sidi  Bou-Sai'd;  a  little 
to  the  left,  in  the  plain,  lie  La  Marsa  and  the  Sebkha  er-Riana;  to 
the  W.  are  seen  the  Bardo  and  the  two  aqueducts. 

Adjoining  the  Institut  Pasteur  (1904),  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Rond-Point, 
is  the  entrance  to  the  Jardin  d'Essais  (adm.,  see  p.  331),  opened  in  1892, 
with  many  tropical  and  subtropical  plants.  Connected  with  it  is  the  Ecole 
Coloniale  d' Agriculture,  founded  in  1898. 

The  tramway  (No.  7)  runs  on  through  olive-groves  to  (3  M.)  the  village 
of  El-Ariana,  once  famed  for  its  Hafside  palace  of  Abu  Fehr,  and  now 
noteworthy  for  its  beautiful  roses.  It  is  a  favourite  resort  of  the  Jews 
of  Tunis,  especially  on  Saturday  afternoons,  when  Jewish  musicians  and 
dancers  perform  at  the  cafes. 

2.  A  less  extensive  but  more  picturesque  *View  than  that  from 
the  Belvedere  is  obtained  from  the  hill,  to  the  W.  of  the  old  town, 
on  which  lie  the  decayed  Turkish  forts  of  Bordj  Flifel  and  Bordj 
Rabta  (193  ft.).  The  shortest  way  to  the  hill  is  by  the  Rue  Bab 
el-Allouch  (PI.  B,  3;  see  tramway  No.  3,  p.  330)  and  through  the 
gate  of  that  name.  We  then  follow  the  Bardo  road  (comp.  p.  339), 
straight  on,  between  the  garden  of  the  Hopital  Civil  (PI.  A,  3,  4), 
on  the  right,  and  the  Ecole  Professionnelle  Loubet  (PI.  A,  4),  a 
technical  school,  on  the  left.  About  6  min.  from  the  gate  we  diverge 
to  the  right  by  a  field-road,  and  we  reach  the  top  in  6  min.  more. 
Near  the  forts  are  numerous  dilapidated  Silos  (rabta),  once  the 
bey's  granaries. 


re  — 

n 

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Z 

i  x. 

- 

— 

Manoubia  HiU.  TUNIS.  62-  Route.     339 

The  Bardo  is  about  1  M.  farther  on,  but  we  now  return  to  the 
crossroads  (see  above)  and  follow  another  road  to  the  S.,  leaving  the 
rillage  of  Melassine  on  the  right,  to  the  Bab  Sidi  Abdallah 
(PI.  A,  5).  Close  to  this  gate  is  the  Chdteau  d'Eau  or  Reservoir 
(PI.  A,  B,  5;  visitors  admitted)  of  the  waterworks  of  Tunis,  which  was 
substituted  in  1859-62  for  the  Roman  aqueduct  of  Carthage  (p.  348). 
It  is  supplied  by  the  main  conduit  from  Zaghouan  (p.  359),  58^2  M. 
long,  by  an  auxiliary  branch  from  the  Ain  Djouggar  (1276  ft.),  23  M. 
distant,  and  (since  1905)  by  a  new  branch,  50  M.  long,  from  Djebel 
Bargou,  which  flows  partly  through  a  tunnel  4  M.  in  length. 

3.  The  Manoubia  Hill  (240  ft.)  may  be  reached  in  1Ji  hr.  by 
a  road  to  the  S.  from  the  Bab  Sidi  Kassem  (PI.  A,  6),  a  town-gate 
3  min.  to  the  S.  of  the  reservoir.  Or  we  may  start  from  the  Place  aux 
Chevaux  (PI.  B,  6;  p.  337),  whence,  near  the  College  Alaoui  (sem- 
inary for  teachers),  we  have  a  good  view  of  the  city  and  of  Lake 
Bahira,  and  then  follow  the  Rue  Bab  el-Goigani  (PI.  B,  C,  7).  The 
hill  offers  a  fine  view,  especially  in  the  morning,  of  the  city,  Lake 
Bahira,  the  hills  of  Carthage  aud  Cape  Bon;  at  our  feet  lies  the 
Sebkha  es-Sedjoumi;  to  the  S.  rise  the  hills  of  La  Mohamedia  and 
Oudna,  backed  by  the  jagged  mountains  of  Zaghouan. 

4.  From  the  Bab  Alleoua  (PI.  E,  7 ;  station  of  tramway  No.  8, 
p.  330)  diverge  the  roads  to  Rades  (p.  363),  Hammam-Lif  (p.  363), 
and  the  Mornag  (p.  358).  We  ascend  across  the  Cimeliere  Sidi  Bel- 
Hassen  (PI.  E,  7),  the  largest  Mohammedan  cemetery  of  Tunis,  now 
desecrated  and  therefore  open  to  'unbelievers',  to  the  (12  min.) 
Zaouia  Sidi  Bel-Hassen,  where  we  enjoy  a  charming  view  of  the 
city  and  Lake  Bahira.  The  mosque,  where  many  of  the  former  beys' 
wives  are  buried,  stands  on  the  site  of  a  cavern  which  was  for  many 
years  inhabited  by  the  Moroccan  saint  Sidi  Bel-Hassen  ech-Chadly, 
the  founder  of  the  Chadlya  brotherhood.  The  beautiful  view  from 
the  top  of  the  hill  (240  ft.),  a  little  apart  from  the  small  Fort  Sidi 
Bel-Hassen,  resembles  that  from  the  Manoubia  Hill. 

5.  The  Bardo,  the  former  winter-residence  of  the  beys,  lies 
in  the  fertile  plain  to  the  W.  of  Tunis,  l!/4  M.  from  Bab  Bou-Saa- 
doun  (PI.  A,  2),  and  2  M.  from  Bab  el-Allouch  (PI.  A,  B,  3,  4;  see 
p.  338)  or  from  Bab  Sidi  Abdallah  (PI.  A,  5).  Starting  from  the  Porte 
de  France,  we  may  go  by  tramway  No.  3  (p.  330 ;  5  c.)  to  Place  Bab- 
Souika,  and  thence  by  tramway  No.  5  (15  c.)  to  the  Bardo.  About  half- 
way we  cross  the  Aqueduc  du  Bardo,  originally  Roman,  a  branch 
of  the  Carthage  aqueduct  (p.  348),  restored  by  Andalusian  Moors  in 
the  16th  century.  —  Those  who  prefer  to  go  by  carriage  should  drive 
"ill  past  the  Reservoir  (see  above),  and  return  round  the  N.  side  of 
the  old  town,  past  the  Feskia  or  Ancien  Reservoir  (PI.  A,  1,  2 ;  Eor 
rain-water)  and  the  Mohammedan  Cimetiere  el-Bsili  (PI.  B,  C,  1,  2), 
to  Bab  el-Khadra  (PI.  C,  2). 

During  the  Turkish  period  the  Bardo,  like  the  Moroccan  pal- 


340     Route  58.  TUNIS.  Bardo. 

aces  of  the  present  day,  formed  a  little  town  by  itself.  It  included 
several  palaces  of  the  beys  and  of  the  widows  of  deceased  princes, 
a  treasury,  dwellings  of  the  court  officials,  a  mosque,  baths,  bar- 
racks, and  a  prison  (zendala),  and  the  whole  group  was  enclosed 
by  a  massive  rectangular  wall.  Most  of  the  sadly  ruined  build- 
ings have  been  utilized  since  1900  as  material  for  the  new  harbour- 
works.  At  the  S.  end  the  outer  wall  has  disappeared.  From  the 
tramway  station  we  enter  the  pretty  grounds  (1903)  to  the  right. 
Immediately  to  the  left  is  the  way  to  the  remains  of  the  chief  palace 
of  the  beys,  and  beyond  it,  on  the  left,  to  the  Museum.  Straight 
ahead  rises  the  ruin  of  a  domed  building;  beyond  it  are  the  mosque 
and  the  prison  (now  a  reformatory  for  natives). 

The  Palace  of  the  Beys,  erected  after  1782  by  Hamuda  Bey 
(p.  336),  contains  several  objects  of  interest,  apart  from  its  taste- 
less European  furniture  and  poor  pictures.    Adm.,  see  p.  331. 

We  enter  by  a  flight  of  steps,  adorned  with  marble  lions  of  mediocre 
Italian  workmanship,  and  through  a  vestibule  with  delicate  decoration 
in  stucco.  The  anterior  colonnaded  court  is  adjoined  on  the  right  by  the 
hall  of  justice,  where  the  beys  used  to  pronounce  sentences  of  death  which 
were  immediately  carried  out  close  by;  opposite  to  it  is  the  reception-room. 
A  passage  to  the  left  brings  us  to  a  second  colonnaded  court.  A  tasteful 
marble  portal  (Italian)  leads  thence  into  the  Salle  des  Glaces,  which  has 
a  fine  ceiling  and  a  valuable  Kairwan  carpet.  We  then  mount  the  staircase 
to  the  First  Floor,  where  the  large  festal  hall  is  on  the  right. 

The  old  Palace  of  the  Harem,  a  creation  of  the  extravagant 
bey  Sidi  Mohammed  (1855-9),  rivalling  the  Alcazar  of  Seville 
(p.  61)  in  its  wealth  of  decoration,  was  carefully  restored  in  1885- 
1888  and  converted  into  a  national  museum. 

The  *Mus6e  du  Bardo,  or  Musie  Alaoui,  named  after  Bey 
Ali  Pasha  (1882-1902),  containing  the  rich  yield  of  excavations  in 
every  part  of  Tunisia,  is  now  the  finest  collection  in  Barbary.  The 
Moorish  and  Turkish  antiquities  were  arranged  in  1900  in  a  pretty 
little  adjoining  palace  under  the  name  of  Musee  Arabe.  Adm.,  see 
p.  331 ;  catalogue  (1897)  10  fr.,  supplement  (1906-10)  27  fr. ;  direc- 
tor, M.  Merlin. 

Ground  Floor.  The  Entrance  Room  contains  Roman  mosaics  from 
Henchir  Sidi  Djedidi,  etc. ;  family  tombstone  of  the  imperial  slave  Optatus, 
from  the  burial-ground  of  the  Officiales  (p.  348).  Also,  on  the  right,  votive 
stones  from  the  temples  of  Saturn  at  Ain-Tounga  and  on  Jebel  Bou- 
Kornin  (p.  363),  Roman  milestones  from  the  Tebessa  road,  etc. ;  on  the 
left,  Roman  tomb-cippi  and  inscriptions.  Then  two  altars  bearing  regula- 
tions in  favour  of  farmers  on  the  imperial  estates:  D441.  from  Henchir- 
Mettich  near  Testour  (time  of  Trajan),  and  D  442.  from  Ain-Ouassel  (time 
of  Septimius  Severus);  C  1030.  Statue  of  Concordia  from  Djorf  Bou-Grara 
(p.  892).  At  the  end  of  the  room,  a  much  damaged  Roman  sarcophagus 
with  the  Muses. —  On  the  right  is — 

Room  I  (Pre-Roman  Room).  Along  the  walls  are  Punic  and  neo-Punic 
votive  stones  dedicated  to  Baal,  Tanit  (p.  356),  and  other  deities;  then 
tomb-stelae,  catapult-balls  from  an  arsenal  at  Carthage,  etc.  —  At  the  back- 
wall  of  the  side-room  is  a  stela  from  Maktar,  nearly  7  ft.  high,  with  a 
Libyan  and  neo-Punic  inscription.  —  On  the  left  of  the  Entrance  Room  is  — 


Musie  du  Bardo.  TUNTS.  6"2.  Route.      341 

Room  III  (Early-Christian  Room).  In  the  centre,  B53.  Font  from  El-Kan- 
tara  (p.  394).  Along  the  walls  are  mosaics  from  Tabarca  and  other  places, 
and  sarcophagi.  In  the  show-case,  lamps  and  vessels  in  clay  from  Oudna 
(5 -Oth  cent.).  —  In  the  passage  to  R.  IV,  terracotta  slabs  with  reliefs, 
once  the  mural  decoration  of  churches. 

Room  IV  (Bulla  Regia  Room),  containing  finds  from  Hammam-Darradji 
(p.  326) :  Roman  sculptures  of  the  time  of  Antoninus  Pius  (138-161),  incl. 
C  1017.  A  Minerva  Polias  in  the  style  of  a  Parthenos  with  the  cornucopia 
of  Bonus  Eventus  and  a  mural  crown;  *Cl018.  Torso  of  Athena;  C  1014. 
JEsculapius,  after  a  Greek  original  of  the  4th  cent.;  C  1013.  Colossal  statue 
of  Apollo,  after  the  school  of  Seopas;  C1015.  Ceres;  Roman  inscriptions. — 
In  the  adjoining  Room  V,  terracotta  figures  from  the  temples  of  Baal 
and  Tanit  at  Bir  Bou-Rekba. 

On  the  Staircase,  C  1033.  Head  of  Hercules,  Roman  mosaics,  etc.;  on 
the  upper  landing,  C  939.  Statue  of  Apollo  from  the  theatre  at  Carthage. 

First  Floor.  Room  VI,  the  old  inner  court  (patio)  of  the  palace. 
In  the  centre  are  two  large  Roman  mosaics  from  Oudna  (2nd  cent.  A.  D.): 
A  103.  Bacchus  presenting  the  vine  to  the  Attic  king  Icarius  (A  104.  Hare 
and  fox  hunt,  in  front);  A  105.  Representation  of  a  country  estate,  with 
hunting  scenes.  Between  the  columns  of  the  portico  are  Roman  statues 
in  marble  from  Carthage  (C  944.  Ganymede;  C  979.  Bacchus;  C  924.  Juno; 
C  9S2.  Isis;  and  others).  Along  the  walls  are  marble  busts  and  heads, 
most  of  them  from  Carthage.  —  Adjoining  this  room  on  the  N.  is — 

Room  VII,  formerly  the  banqueting-room,  with  a  superb  *Dome  carved 
in  wood.  In  the  centre,  A  1.  Mosaic  pavement,  about  150  sq.  yds.,  from 
a  Roman  villa  near  Susa  ('  Cortege  de  Neptune ').  By  the  end-walls,  A  25-27. 
Three  semicircular  mosaics  from  Tabarca  (beginning  of  the  4th  cent.  A.D.) 
representing  a  country-seat  with  park,  stable,  granary,  sheds,  and  cellar. 
By  the  left  side-wall  are  two  Roman  mosaics  (A  7.  Fishing;  A  12.  Head 
of  Oceanus);  A  19.  Early-Christian  relief  with  circus-scenes;  old  Christian 
♦Sarcophagus  Mosaics  from  Tabarca,  mostly  representing  the  deceased  in 
the  attitude  of  prayer,  between  two  candles.  The  wall-presses  contain 
Punic,  Khodian,  Roman,  and  early-Christian  lamps.  By  the  back-wall  are 
Roman  pottery,  and  implements  in  bronze,  ivory,  and  bone.  Also  a  fine 
bust  of  Athena  from  Carthage. — Next  comes  — 

Room  VIII.  In  the  centre,  bronze  armour  of  Campanian  origin  (end 
of  3rd  cent.  B.C.),  found  in  a  Punic  tomb  at  Ksour-Essaf  (p.  370):  *E  8. 
A  silver-gilt  patera  (sacrificial  bowl)  from  Bizerta,  weighing  nearly  24  lbs., 
with  reliefs  (contest  of  Apollo  and  Marsyas,  sacrifice  to  Dionysus,  Bacchic 
scene).  —  In  the  side-cases  are  gold  trinkets  and  cut  gems,  mostly  from 
Carthage.  In  the  window-cases  are  Mauretanian,  Roman,  and  Byzantine 
coins.  Along  the  walls  are  Roman  mosaics  from  Dougga  and  from  *Chebba 
(A  292.  Neptune  and  the  Four  Seasons;  A  293.  Orpheus  among  the  animals); 
C  1115.  The  (i  races  and  the  Four  Seasons  (front  of  a  tine  marble  sarcophagus). 

Room  IX.  In  the  centre,  A  287.  The  Procession  of  Bacchus,  a  large 
mosaic  from  El-Djem.  Along  the  walls  are  Roman  mosaics  from  El-Djem 
(A  288.  Hare-hunt;  A  289.  Nine  Muses;  etc.),  from  Thina  (Thsenje),  from 
Susa  (A  6.  Boat  with  quaint  representation  of  the  water),  and  from  Djorf 
Bou-Grara  (A  301.  ASOlbis.  wrestlers).  In  the  corners,  C 1026.  Torso 
of  a  draped  woman,  perhaps  a  Victoria,  in  black  marble;  C  72.  Head  of 
Augustus;  C  1027.  Head  of  Hercules  (all  from  El-Djem).  In  the  press  on 
the  left,  three  leaden  urns  and  six  admirably  preserved  glass  cinerary 
nrns  from  the  burial-ground  of  the  Officiates  at  Carthage  (p.  348).  In  the 
press  on  the  right,  bronze  utensils.  In  the  wall-cases,  leaden  and  bronze 
objects  from  Carthage  and  Hammam  Darradji;  also  so-called  '  tabellse  de- 
fixionuin',  rolls  of  lead  with  curses  directed  against  enemies  in  the  circus 
(found  in  tombs  at  Susa).  Detached,  C  16.  Torso  of  a  Bacchante  from  El- 
Djem. —  We  return  to  R.  VI  and  thence,  to  the  left,  enter — 

Room  XI,  formerly  the  concert-room,  containing  Roman  mosaics.  In 
the  centre,  A  166.  Mosaic  pavement  from  Medei'ua,  showing  the  different 
kinds  of  Roman  trading  vessels;   also  the  heads  of  a  river-god  and  of 


342     Route  52.  TUNIS. 

Oceanus.  By  the  entrance-wall,  A 171.  Temple  (containing  statues  of 
Apollo  and  Diana,  and  hunting  scenes)  from  Carthage.  By  the  wall  op- 
posite, A  162.  A  seriously  damaged  representation  of  a  banquet  (4th  cent. 
A.D.)  from  Carthage.  — The  opposite  — 

Room  XII  was  formerly  the  dining-room  The  presses  contain  relics 
from  Punic  tombs  (some  of  them  imported,  Egyptian,  Greek,  and  Etrus- 
can). In  the  two  central  cases,  terracotta-masks  (to  avert  evil  spirits), 
which  also  were  among  the  objects  buried  with  the  dead.  —  A  door  on  the 
same  (W.)  side  of  R.  VI  as  that  to  R.  XII  gives  access  to  three  rooms 
(XIV-XVI)  containing  objects  discovered  at  the  bottom  of  the  sea  near 
Mehdia  (see  p.  370)  in  1907-10. 

Room  XIV.  A  bronze  *Hermes  of  Dionysus,  in  an  archaic  style,  by 
Boethus  of  Chalcedon  (according  to  the  inscription;  2nd  cent.  B.C.).  On 
a  shelf  are  remains  of  a  large  bronze  capital  with  two  female  heads.  In 
the  glass-cases  are  two  bronze  lamps  with  the  figure  of  a  runner;  numerous 
bronze  statuettes,  among  others  an  Eros  playing  a  lyre,  two  female  dancers, 
a  buffoon,  Satyr,  and  actors;  bronze  utensils. 

Room  XV.  In  the  centre,  a  bronze  *Statue  of  a  winged  Eros  (4'/2  ft. 
high).  Along  the  walls,  a  leaden  anchor;  terracotta  amphorae,  bars  of  lead 
with  stamps  in  Latin,  flour-mills;  in  the  glass-case,  a  terracotta  lamp  with 
its  wick  still  preserved. 

Room  XVI  (marble  objects).  Large  mixing  bowls  ('craterae'),  adorned 
with  Bacchic  subjects;  candelabra  in  the  neo-Attic  style;  capitals;  Greek 
inscriptions;  busts  and  heads,  among  which  should  be  noted,  in  the  middle, 
a  well-preserved  Aphrodite;  torsos  and  statuettes. 

We  return  to  R.  VI  and  descend  five  steps  into  — 

Room  XIII,  an  octagonal  *Domed  Chamber  (formerly  the  bey's  bed- 
room), with  four  side-rooms  richly  adorned  with  stucco  and  tiles  (once  occu- 
pied by  his  four  favourite  wives).  In  the  centre,  A 10.  Roman  mosaic 
from  Bir-Ohana,  with  the  gods  of  the  seven  days  of  the  week  and  the 
signs  of  the  zodiac.  In  the  right  wing,  *A  266.  Roman  mosaic  from 
Susa,  Virgil  writing  the  iEneid.  In  the  wing  opposite  the  entrance,  C4. 
Torso  of  a  Satyr  pouring  out  wine  (after  Praxiteles).  In  the  left  wing, 
*C  969.  Ceres,  from  Carthage,  with  traces  of  painting;  also  C  970,  C971. 
Two  draped  female  statues.  —  In  the  corner-room  on  the  right,  without 
number,  Large  alabaster  vase  from  Carthage  with  haut-relief  (head  of 
Bacchus  with  vine-wreath).  —  In  the  corner-room  on  the  left  are  terracotta 
figurines  from  Susa. 

In  the  Gallery  of  R.  VI  (p.  341)  are  a  relief-map  of  Carthage,  models 
of  buildings  in  Carthage,  Dougga,  Le  Kef,  Oudna,  Sbeitla,  and  Djorf  Bou- 
Grara;  also  photographs  of  Tunisian  monuments. 

From  the  staircase  (p.  341)  we  enter  the  Mus6e  Arabe.  In  Room  I, 
tastefully  decorated  in  stucco,  are  mural  tiles  from  Tunis,  Nabeul  (p.  365), 
and  Morocco,  and  knotted  carpets  from  Kairwan.  The  side-rooms  con- 
tain metal-work,  enamelled  vessels,  wood-carving,  weapons,  etc. 

In  the  Court  (patio)  are  mural  tiles ;  in  the  small  side-rooms  on  the 
left,  costumed  figures,  national  garbs,  and  models  in  stucco. 

In  Room  II,  furniture  (incl.  a  sumptuous  bed)  and  embroidery  (incl. 
haitis ,  velvet  hangings  with  gold  and  silver  embroidery).  In  the  side- 
rooms  are  Tunisian  (from  Djerba  and  Moknine)  and  Algerian  trinkets; 
also  beautiful  Kairwan  carpets. 

Behind  the  Bardo  is  Kassar-Sa'id,  a  chateau  of  the  bey  (no 
admittance).  Here,  in  1881,  was  concluded  the  Bardo  Treaty,  which 
ended  the  independence  of  Tunisia. 

The  highroad  goes  on,  past  the  Hippodrome  of  Kassar-Sa'id 
(races  in  spring),  to  (21j2  M.)  La  Manouba  (rail,  station,  see 
p.  329;  tramway  No.  5,  see  p.  330),  a  group  of  decayed  Moorish 
country-houses   with    fine   orange -gardens.     The   Palais   de  la 


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GOLETTA.  63.  Route.     343 

Manouba  (now  cavalry-barracks)  was  once  the  country-seat  of 
ll.unuda  Bey  (p.  336).  The  kubba  of  Lalla  Manouba  attracts 
many  pilgrims. 

From  Tunis  to  Dougga,  see  R.  55;  to  Zaghouan,  Le  Kef,  and  Kalad- 
Djerda,  see  R.  56;  to  Rades,  Hamrnam  Lif,  anil  Susa,  see  R.  57;  to 
Bizerta,  see  R.  54;  to  Malta,  see  R.  63;  to  Tripoli  (Syracuse),  see  R.  64. 


53.  Carthage. 

An  Electric  Tramway  starts  from  Tunis  Terminus,  Ave.  Jules-Ferry 
(PI.  E,  1).  near  the  Casino,  for  Carthage  and  (3/4  hr.)  Marsa-Plage.  The 
chief  stations  on  this  line  are  La  Goulette,  for  the  little  town  of  Goletta; 
Carthage,  for  the  castle-hill  (St.  Louis  de  Carthage),  for  the  plateau  of 
the  Odeon,  and  for  the  cisterns  at  the  Bordj  el-Djedid ;  Ste.  Monique, 
for  Damous  el-Karita;  and  Sidi  Bou-Sa'id,  for  the  lighthouse.  The  ter- 
minus, Marsa-Plage,  close  to  the  shore,  is  connected  by  a  branch-line 
(i/8M.)  with  Marsa-ViUe,  which  is  the  terminus  of  another  electric  tram- 
way running  from  the  Ave.  de  Paris  (PI.  E,  3)  at  Tunis  via  El-Aouina. 
—  Uniform  fares  from  Tunis  to  Goletta,  Carthage,  Marsa-Plage,  or  Marsa- 
Ville  single  1  fr.  20  or  65  c,  return  1  fr.  75  c.  or  1  fr. 

A  Diuve  (carr.  15  fr.)  from  Tunis  to  Sidi-Daoud,  La  Malga  (amphi- 
theatre and  cisterns),  La  Marsa,  Sidi  Bou-Sa'id,  Carthage  (cisterns  at 
Bordj  el-Djedid,  theatre,  and  museum),  Goletta,  Maxula-Rades  (p.  363), 
and  hack  to  Tunis  is  recommended.  Luncheon  (hrought  from  Tunis)  may 
be  taken  beside  the  lighthouse  at  Sidi  Bou-Said  or  at  Carthage.  Good 
jes  are  to  be  had  also  at  Goletta  and  the  stations  of  Carthage  and 
Marsa -Ville  (2  fr.  per  hr. ;  but  the  fare  should  be  fixed  beforehand). — 
In  cool  weather,  especially  in  the  forenoon,  the  Walk  from  La  Marsa  via 
Sidi  Bou-Said  to  Carthage  is  very  enjoyable. 

Hotels  at  Carthage:  Hot.  St.  Louis  de  Carthage,  on  the  castle-hill, 
tolerable,  dej.  or  D.  3-3'/2  f r-  ,  wine  dear;  Pavilion  Beau-Sejour,  R.  3, 
B.  l'/«,  dcj.  2'/i.  D.  3  fr. ;  Hot.  des  Citernes  Romaines,  near  the  cisterns 
of  Bordj  el-Djedid  (p.  350),  plain  but  good. 

For  a  short  visit  to  the  ruins  the  following  description  will  suffice. 
For  further  study  the  traveller  is  referred  to  the  Carte  archeologique  et 
topographique  des  Ruines  de  Carthage  (Paris,  1907;  three  sheets,  scale 
1:5000)  and  to  'Carthage  autrefois,  Carthage  aujourd'hui'  (2'/2  fr. ;  to  be 
had  at  the  Mus6e  Lavigerie),  a  full  description,  but  partly  out  of  date. 
Comp.  also  the  chapters  on  Carthage  in  Cagnat's  book  mentioned  at 
p.  289. — The  guides  and  beggars  are  very  importunate.  Native  vendors 
oiler  spurious  antiquities  (cameos,  coins,  etc.),  'just  dug  up'.  It  should 
be  noted  that  the  ruins  abound  in  awkward  cavities  and  fissures,  and 
that,  in  summer  especially,  scorpions  lurk  under  the  loose  stones. 

The  Electric  Tramway  (see  above)  to  Carthage  and  Marsa- 
Plage  runs  to  the  Harbour  (p.  333),  crosses  its  N.  entrance  by  an 
embankment,  and  follows  the  N.  bank  of  the  ship-canal  across  Lake 
I'.ahira  (comp.  p.  129),  skirting  the  passing-place  of  the  steamers. 
On  the  left  is  the  islet  of  Chikhj  (p.  129). 

6'/4  M.  Arret  du  Bac,  station  for  the  Goletta  steam-ferry 
mentioned  at  p.  363.  —  7  M.  La  Goulette,  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
little  town  of  — 

Goletta,  or  La  Goulette  (Hot.  de  la  Gare,  unpretending;  pop. 
5000,  chiefly  Sicilian  and  Maltese  fisher-folk),  the  former  little 
harbour  of  Tunis,  deserted  since  the  opening  of  the  ship-canal. 


344     Route  63.  CARTHAGE. 

It  was  strongly  fortified  by  Kheireddin  (p.  221)  in  1534  and  trans- 
formed into  a  great  naval  station,  but  was  soon  captured  by  the 
Spaniards  and  formed  the  base  whence  they  kept  Tunis  in  check 
(1535-74). 

On  the  island  between  the  ship-canal  and  the  two  narrow  inlets 
to  the  harbour  are  the  Ddr  el-Bey,  an  old  palace  of  the  beys,  and 
the  disused  Marine  Arsenal  founded  by  Ahmed  Bey  (1837-55). 
On  the  shore,  beyond  the  old  harbour-mouth,  which  is  only  6x/2  ft- 
deep,  rises  the  Kasba,  now  barracks. 

From  Goletta  to  Maxula-Rades,  see  p.  363. 

Between  old  Goletta  and  the  ancient  harbour  of  Carthage 
stretches  a  tongue  of  land,  the  ancient  Taenia  or  Ligula,  between 
Lake  Bahira  and  the  open  sea,  where  bathing-places  abound:  7!/4  M. 
La  Goulette  Neuve,  with  a  long  row  of  humble  lodging-houses, 
chiefly  patronized  by  the  poorer  Jewish  families  from  Tunis;  8  M. 
KMreddine,  where  the  old  palace  of  Khereddine,  once  the  all- 
powerful  minister  of  Bey  Mohammed  es-Saddok  (1859-82),  is  now 
a  casino ;  9  M.  Le  Kram,  another  favourite  Jewish  resort,  on  the 
small  Baie  du  Kram. 

The  next  station  is  (93/4  M.)  Salambo,  a  new  colony  of  villas 
named  after  Flaubert's  novel;  near  it  is  the  'Lazaret',  an  old  palace 
of  the  beys'  harem,  on  the  shore,  between  the  two  ancient  harbours 
of  Carthage  (p.  345),  used  as  a  cholera  hospital  in  1884  (now  bar- 
racks). 10  M.  Douar  ech-Chott,  on  the  E.  side  of  this  picturesque 
native  village  (comp.  p.  345). 

10x/4  M.  Dermeche,  station  for  El-Khera'ib  ('the  ruins'),  sup- 
posed to  have  been  once  the  market-place  of  Carthage  (p.  345),  on 
the  S.  side  of  the  Kothon,  and  also  for  the  Palais  de  Dermdche, 
once  the  palace  of  the  minister  Mustapha  ben-Ismail,  and  now  the 
property  of  the  bey. 

lO1^  M.  Carthage  (hotels,  see  p.  343),  station  for  the  road 
to  the  castle-hill  and  abbey-hill  of  Carthage  (pp.  346,  349).  1174M. 
Ste.  Monique,  between  the  convent  of  that  name  on  the  right  and 
Damous  el-Karita  (p.  349)  on  the  left. 

Passing  Briqueterie,  we  ascend  to  (13  M.)  Sidi  Bou-Said 
(p.  351). 

133/4  M.  Arret  de  I'Archeveche",  for  the  archiepiscopal  palace; 
Arret  de  la  Corniche,  the  last  halt.  We  then  descend  to  the  N.W 
to  (141/2  M.)  La  Marsa-Plage  (p.  351). 


Carthage,  once  the  proud  queen  of  the  seas,  lay  10  M.  to  the 
E.  of  Tunis  on  a  low  range  of  hills  culminating  in  Cape  Carthage 
(p.  351).  The  cape  was  originally  an  island,  but  was  probably 
united  with  the  mainland  by  the  deposits  of  the  Medjerda  before 


CARTHAGE.  68.  Route.     345 

the  foundation  of  the  city  (comp.  p.  129).  The  neck  of  land  be- 
tween Lake  Bahira  on  the  S.  and  the  Sebkha  er-Riana  on  the  N., 
where  the  army  of  Eegulus  was  annihilated  in  255  and  where 
Scipio  encamped  in  146,  was,  according  to  Polybius,  only  3000 
paces  (ca.  V/2  M.)  wide,  but  is  now  3  M.  at  the  narrowest  part.  In 
the  middle  ages  Douar  ech-Chott  (p.  344;  'village  on  the  salt-lake') 
lay  on  Lake  Bahira.  Carthage  possessed  two  harbours.  The  outer 
or  commercial  harbour  lay  between  the  Baie  du  Kram  (p.  344)  and 
Bordj  el-Djedid  (p.  350),  where  considerable  remains  of  its  quays 
are  preserved  for  a  distance  of  nearly  a  mile.  The  inner  or  naval 
harbour  (Kothon)  was  an  artificial  inland  basin,  probably  on  the 
same  site  as  the  two  modern  lagoons,  with  a  rectangular  entrance- 
basin  and  a  circular  main  harbour.  On  an  islet  in  the  latter  lay 
the  naval  arsenal. 

Between  the  two  harbours  ran  the  triple  town-wall,  which  on  one 
side  extended  from  the  Bordj  el-Djedid  to  the  plateau  between  the 
Odeon  and  Damous  el-Karita  (p.  349),  and  on  the  other  side  en- 
closed the  castle-hill  (see  below)  ou  the  S.  and  W.  sides.  The  market- 
place (p.  344),  on  the  N.  side  of  the  naval  harbour,  was  connected 
with  the  castle -hill  by  three  narrow  streets,  the  chief  scene  of 
contest  during  the  storming  by  Scipio.  To  the  N.W.  of  the  city- 
wall,  as  early  as  the  Punic  period,  lay  the  villa-suburb  of  Megara 
or  Magalia  (now  La  Malga). 

History.  Carthage  was  founded  about  880  B.C.  by  Phoenicians  from 
Tyre,  under  the  leadership,  according  to  tradition,  of  Dido,  adjacent  to 
Kambe,  a  colony  from  Sidon.  Under  the  name  of  Kart-hadasfit  ('new 
town')  it  extended  gradually  from  the  dale  on  the  N.E.  side  of  the  Bordj 
el-Djedid  up  to  the  castle-hill.  Thanks  to  its  most  advantageous  site 
near  the  Sicilian  straits  and  ou  the  sea-route  between  Egypt  and  Spain, 
and  to  its  proximity  to  the  valleys  of  the  Medjerda  and  the  Oued  Miliane 
(p.  363),  the  richest  in  the  land,  it  soon  surpassed  Utica  (p.  353)  and  the 
smaller  Phoenician  seaports  in  wealth  and  power.  From  the  6th  cent, 
onwards  Carthaginian  fleets  contended  with  the  Greeks  and  with  the 
Etruscans,  from  whom  they  wrested  Corsica  and  Sardinia,  for  the  mas- 
tery of  the  W.  Mediterranean,  and  in  480  their  army  of  mercenaries,  in 
alliance  with  Xerxes,  even  attacked  the  Greeks  of  Sicily.  After  a  great 
struggle  of  more  than  two  centuries  for  the  possession  of  Sicily,  during 
which  Agathocles  (p.  163)  carried  the  war  into  his  enemies'  country 
(310-307),  the  intervention  of  Rome  led  to  the  three  Punic  wars  (264-241, 
218-201,  and  149-146),  to  the  occupation  of  Spain  by  the  Carthaginians,  and 
to  the  capture  and  destruction  of  Carthage,  after  a  heroic  resistance,  by 
Scipio  in  146  B.C.  On  its  ruins,  in  122,  C.  Gracchus  attempted  to  found 
a  Roman  colony,  but  it  was  not  till  the  year  44  that  the  far-seeing  policy 
of  CsBsar  led  to  the  firm  establishment  of  the  Colon ia  Julia  Carthago. 
The  despatch  by  Augustus  of  a  colony  of  veterans  and  the  erection 
of  the  city  into  the  capital  of  the  province  in  place  of  Utica  (29  B.  C.) 
paved  the  way  for  the  renewed  glory  of  Carthage,  which  soon  became  the 
greatest  Mediterranean  seaport  next  to  Alexandria  and  the  third-greatest 
city  in  the  Roman  empire.  Far  and  wide  its  schools  of  rhetoric  and 
philosophy  were  famous.  Passionate  champions  of  Christianity,  like  Ter- 
tullian  (160  to  about  245),  founder  of  the  sect  called  after  him,  and  Cyp- 
rian (d.  258),  who  protested  against  the  claim  of  Rome  to  precedence  in 
the  church,  were  residents  in  Carthage,  the  chief  bishopric  in  N.  Africa. 


346     Route  53.  CARTHAGE.  Byrsa. 

In  numerous  councils  (from  393  onwards)  the  dogmas  of  the  Catholic 
church  were  here  discussed  and  settled,  and  at  the  synod  of  the  Gargi- 
lian  Thermae  in  411  St.  Augustine  with  fiery  eloquence  combated  the 
doctrines  of  the  Donatists  (p.  322)  and  the  Tertullianists. 

Genseric  (p.  322)  converted  the  old  palace  of  the  proconsuls  into 
his  royal  residence  and  made  Carthage  the  capital  of  the  Vandal  empire, 
and  a  little  later  the  city  became  the  residence  of  the  Byzantine  gover- 
nors. After  Hassan  ibn  en-N6man  (p.  322)  had  destroyed  the  city  in  698, 
almost  as  completely  as  Scipio  had  done,  and  after  he  had  even  caused 
the  harbours  to  be  filled  up,  the  ruins  were  used  for  centuries  as  a 
quarry  for  the  building  of  Kairwan  (p.  372),  Tunis,  Goletta,  and  the  small 
towns  around,  while  many  of  the  Roman  and  Byzantine  columns  were 
carried  off  by  the  Moors  to  Cordova  and  by  the  Italians  to  Palermo, 
Amalfi,  Pisa,  and  Genoa.  The  attempts  of  the  Hafsides  (p.  323)  to  resus- 
citate Carthage  met  with  little  success.  To  that  dynasty  belonged  El- 
Mostanser-Billah,  against  whom  Louis  IX.,  the  Saint,  directed  his  last 
crusade.  It  was  on  the  castle-hill  of  Carthage  that  Louis  died  of  the 
plague  in  1270,  and  it  was  from  Carthage  that  Emp.  Charles  V.  led  his 
expedition  against  Tunis  in  1535.  Modern  builders  have  again  been  busy, 
at  the  cost  of  the  ancient  ruins,  since  the  time  of  Card.  Lavigerie  (1825-92), 
who  made  the  Missions  d'Afrique  (see  below)  the  centre  of  the  catholic 
missions  in  N.  Africa  and  succeeded  in  1884  in  obtaining  the  restoration 
of  the  old  archbishopric. 

After  all  this  endless  havoc,  and  owing  to  constant  alterations  in  the 
earth's  surface,  it  is  now  very  difficult  to  trace  the  plan  either  of  the  Punic 
or  of  the  Roman  Carthage,  which  seems  to  have  been  laid  out  in  chess- 
board fashion.  Yet  the  beauty  of  the  scenery  and  the  wealth  of  historical 
memories  amply  compensates  for  the  deplorable  state  of  the  ruins.  The 
valuable  yield  of  recent  excavations  is  now  preserved  in  the  Musee  La- 
vigerie (see  below),  in  the  Bardo  Museum  (p.  340),  and  in  the  Louvre. 

The  Byrsa  (194  ft.),  the  ancient  castle-hill  of  Carthage,  660 
yds.  from  the  sea,  was  the  site  in  the  Punic  period  of  a  temple  of 
Eshmun,  and  in  the  Roman  period  of  a  temple  of  ^Esculapius  and 
of  the  palace  of  the  proconsul.  It  is  now  called  the  Colline  de 
St.  Louis  de  Carthage  and  is  occupied  hy  the  chapel  of  St.  Louis, 
the  seminary,  and  the  archiepiscopal  cathedral.  The  terrace  on  the 
side  next  the  sea,  adjoining  the  Hotel  St.  Louis  de  Carthage  (p.  343), 
commands  a  delightful  *View  of  the  gulf  of  Tunis  and  the  site  of 
ancient  Carthage. 

The  Grand  Seminaire  de  Carthage,  founded  in  1875  by  Card. 
Lavigerie  as  a  mission-house  and  seminary  for  the  Peres  Mission- 
naires  d'Afrique  (commonly  called  Peres  Blancs  from  their  white 
semi-Arab  garb),  contains  the  *Musee  Lavigerie,  dating  from 
1875,  where  the  yield  of  the  excavations  made  by  Pere  Delattre, 
the  learned  principal  of  the  seminary,  is  preserved.  Adm.  on 
Mon.,  Thurs.,  Frid.,  and  Sat.,  2  to  5.30;  on  Sun.  and  holidays  2-3 
and  4  to  5.30;  probably  also  before  11,  and  on  other  afternoons, 
on  application  (closed  in  Holy  Week  after  Wed.).  Visitors  make  a 
donation  to  the  offertory-box.    No  catalogue. 

In  the  Seminary  Garden,  below  the  small  Qhapelle  de  St.  Lottis, 
built  in  1845  to  the  memory  of  King  Louis  the  Saint  (see  above),  are 
preserved  eight  barrel -vaults,  with  semicircular  niches,  relics  of  some 
ancient  edifice  of  unknown  character.  On  the  terrace  in  front  of  the  chapel 
is  a  large  Roman  sarcophagus  in  marble.    Around  it  are  placed  numerous 


Muaie  Lavigerie.  CARTHAGE.  BS.  Route.      347 

Punic  cinerary  urns.  In  the  grounds  lie  fragments  of  ancient  buildings. 
Along  the  garden-walls  are  ranged  Roman  mosaics,  inscriptions,  and  frag- 
ments of  sculpture. 

The  Colonnade  of  the  seminary  is  adorned  with  three  colossal  figures 
of  Victory  in  high-relief,  of  the  time  of  the  proconsul  Q.  Aurelius  Syni- 
machus  (373-5),  one  of  the  last  champions  of  expiring  paganism.  —  The 
Vestibule  contains  two  sadly  mutilated  early-Christian  reliefs,  the  An- 
nsnoiatiou  to  the  Shepherds  and  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  from  Damous 
el-Karita  (p.  349).  —  To  the  left,  in  the  Salle  de  la  Croisade,  are  Punic, 
Roman,  and  early-Christian  inscriptions.  —  On  the  right  is  the  — 

Punic  Room,  containing  the  most  valuable  collection,  almost  ex- 
clusively from  Punic  rock-tombs  (8th-2nd  cent.  B.C.),  unrivalled  except 
in  the  museum  of  Iviza.  In  the  1st  Case  in  the  middle  of  the  room  are 
Egyptian  scarabs  and  amulets,  trinkets  (some  Egyptian),  and  weights. 
2nd  Case:  lamps  and  vases  in  clay,  gold  trinkets,  beautiful  Greek  ivory 
carving  (swan  Dearing  a  goddess),  an  Etruscan  inscription  (the  only  one 
yet  found  in  Africa),  Egyptian  signet-rings,  etc.  3rd  Case:  necklaces 
composed  of  amulets,  glass  amulets  with  faces  of  iridescent  glass,  gold 
signet-rings  with  engraved  figures,  fragments  of  painted  ostrich -eggs, 
toilet  articles  in  lead,  Cupid  in  terracotta  resembling  the  Tanagra  figurines, 
a  Greek  work.  4th  Case:  bronze  mirrors  and  'little  axes'  or  razors,  pro- 
bably amulets.  —  In  the  wall-presses,  on  the  left  of  the  entrance,  Punic 
vases  and  terracotta. masks,  iron  and  bronze  weapons.  By  the  left  side- 
wall  are  statuettes  in  clay  in  the  Egyptian  and  Cyprian  style,  Corinthian 
and  Attic  vases,  an  Etruscan  vase  (toilet  scene),  two  bronze  jugs  with 
fine  figures  as  handles.  By  the  back-wall  are  terracottas. — At  the  end 
of  the  right  side-wall,  in  the  window-niche,  cinerary  urn  of  the  priest 
Baalchelek,  also  that  of  another  priest  with  a  beautiful  relief  of  the 
deceased.  By  the  last  window  but  one,  on  the  right  side,  are  five  cinerary 
urns;  in  front  of  them  stands  a  sarcophagus  with  two  skeletons.  Then, 
at  the  end  of  the  room,  are  four  anthropoid  *Sarcophagi  in  the  Greek  style 
(end  of  4th  cent.  B.C.)j  two  bearded  priests  in  the  attitude  of  prayer  (one 
of  them  a  cast);  a  priestess,  with  remarkably  well-preserved  painting, 
holding  a  dove  and  a  situla. 

Lastly  we  enter  the  Romajj-Christian  Room  from  the  garden.  By 
the  end-wall  on  the  left  are  early-Christian  mosaics  and  lamps.  By  the 
back-wall,  Roman  mosaics  (incl.  Autumn  and  Winter) ;  marble  sculptures 
(Ceres,  bust  of  Apollo,  etc.).  By  the  right  end-wall  are  Roman  terra- 
cottas, *Lamps  with  figure-compositions,  and  three  reliefs  in  stucco  from 
the  tomb  of  a  lady  of  rank.  By  the  entrance-wall,  Roman  and  Byzantine 
weights.  —  The  1st  Case  in  the  middle  of  the  room  contains  early-Christian 
relics  from  the  abbey-hill  (p.  349),  mostly  of  the  Vandal  period.  2nd  Case: 
a  bronze  lamp  and  the  clay  statuette  of  an  organ-player  (upper  part  broken 
off).  3rd  Case:  Roman  bronzes  and  glasses;  rolls  of  lead  inscribed  with 
curses,  from  the  burial-ground  of  the  Officiales  (p.  348) ;  Byzantine  and 
mediaeval  coins.  4th  Case:  coins  of  the  Phoenician  down  to  the  Byzantine 
periods. 

The  Cathedral  (Primatiale  de  St.  Cyprien  et  de  St.  Louis),  a 
basilica  with  nave  and  two  aisles,  built  in  1884-90  by  Abbe  Pougnei, 
in  the  Byzantine-Moorish  style,  contains  (in  the  choir)  the  archi 
episcopal  throne  and  the  tomb  of  Card.  Lavigerie  (p.  346).  Over 
the  high-altar  is  the  valuable  reliquary  of  St.  Louis,  executed  by 
Armand  Caillat,  a  goldsmith  of  Lyons.  Adm.  from  5  to  11.15  and 
12.30  to  5.30  (in  summer  6.45). 

The  limestone  blocks  on  the  S.W.  side  of  the  cathedral,  near  the 
small  eucalyptus  grove,  are  remains  of  the  stylobate  of  a  Roman 
Temple.    From  the  brow  of  the  hill  we  obtain  a  good  survey  of 


348     Route  53.  CARTHAGE.  Amphitheatre. 

the  site  of  the  ancient  naval  harbour  (p.  345)  and  of  the  Roman 
circus  (see  below).   The  view  of  Lake  Bahira  is  charming  at  sunset. 

Between  the  brow  of  the  hill  and  the  road  descending  to  Douar 
ech-Chott  (p.  344)  Pere  Delattre's  excavations  have  brought  to  light 
a  number  of  buildings  a  thousand  years  apart  in  date.  Above,  on 
the  margin  of  the  hill,  is  an  interesting  Punic  Necropolis  with 
rock-tombs;  lower  down  are  remains  of  the  Town  Walls,  hastily 
restored  under  Theodosius  II.  (p.  541)  in  424,  and  traces  of  the 
Roman  Road  leading  to  the  harbour;  then  Punic  tombs  again,  and 
below  them  the  foundations  of  a  Byzantine  Divelling  House  (a  room 
here  contains  early-Moorish  tombs). 

Below  the  S.  angle  of  the  castle-hill  we  come  upon  ancient  fortifications. 
Farther  down  is  a  wall  or  buttress  composed  of  thousands  of  early-Roman 
earthenware  amphora?;  also  a  rock-hewn  Chapel  (key  at  the  Seminary) 
with  remains  of  wall-paintings  (saint  bestowing  a  blessing)  in  the  style 
of  the  catacomb  frescoes. 

Time  permitting,  we  follow  the  Sidi-Daoud  road  to  the  N.W. 
from  the  castle-hill,  cross  the  Goletta  and  La  Marsa  highroad,  and 
reach  (x/4  hr.)  the  Roman  Amphitheatre,  which  has  been  broken 
up  only  since  the  16th  cent.,  and  which  Edrisi,  the  geographer 
(1154),  has  described  as  one  of  almost  matchless  splendour.  All 
that  is  left  of  it  consists  of  a  few  remains  of  substructures  deeply 
imbedded  in  rubbish,  several  underground  passages,  and  in  the 
centre  of  the  arena  (where  a  chapel  with  a  cross  recalls  the  martyrs 
Perpetua  and  Felicitas,  p.  350)  three  underground  chambers,  prob- 
ably for  the  machinery  used  in  theatrical  performances. 

To  the  S.,  not  far  from  Dou<*r  ech-Chott  (p.  344),  are  a  few  vestiges 
of  the  Roman  Circus.  It  measured  770  by  110  yds. ;  the  Spina,  or  partition 
round  which  the  racing  chariots  passed,  was  380  yds.  long. 

Scarcely  a  hundred  paces  to  the  N.W.  of  the  amphitheatre,  near  a 
farm-building,  is  a  Burial  Ground  of  the  Officiates  (lst-2nd  cent.), 
the  imperial  freedmen  and  slaves  employed  in  the  proconsul's  office 
(tabularium).  —  Beyond  the  amphitheatre  the  road  passes  a  second 
Burial  Ground  of  the  same  kind  on  the  right  and  the  foundations 
of  the  Villa  of  Scorpianus  (identified  by  the  inscription  'Scor- 
pianus  in  adamatu ')  on  the  left. 

To  the  W.  of  the  highroad,  12  min.  from  the  castle-hill,  lies 
the  dirty  village  of  La  Malga  (82  ft.),  which  swarms  with  begging 
children.  On  the  N.E.  side  of  the  village  are  scanty  ruins  of  Roman 
Thermae.  The  Cisterns  in  the  middle  of  the  village,  15  (origin- 
ally 24)  barrel-vaults  now  in  a  very  ruinous  condition  and  partly 
used  by  the  natives  as  dwellings  or  stables,  once  formed  the  chief 
reservoir  fed  by  the  Roman  Aqueduct  (pp.  329,  353,  358),  begun 
under  Hadrian  in  117,  but  not  completed  till  163.  The  whole  city 
was  supplied  thence  by  means  of  leaden  pipes. 

A  Roman  Road  leads  almost  in  a  straight  line  from  La  Malga,  to  the 
N.E.,  close  past  Damous  el-Karita  (p.  349)  and  past  the  Basilica  Maiorum 
(p.  350),  to  the  Arret  de  la  Briqueterie  (p.  344). 


Damous  d-Karita.  CARTHAGE.  53.  Route.     349 

From  La  Malga  we  follow  the  road  to  the  S.E.,  past  the  Croix  de 
St.  Cyprien,  a  memorial  of  the  famous  bishop  (pp.  345,  346),  along 
the  coarse  of  the  old  'Conduit  Souterrain',  to  the  Abbey  Hill 
(171  ft.),  often  groundlessly  called  Colline  de  Junon,  rising  to  the 
N.E.  of  the  castle-hill.  Here  are  situated  the  Monastere  du  Carmel, 
a  Carmelite  nunnery,  and  the  Petit  Seminaire,  the  original  mission- 
house  of  the  White  Fathers,  now  an  orphanage  presided  over  by 
the  Soeurs  Missionnaires  d'Afrique,  a  sisterhood  also  instituted 
by  Card.  Lavigerie.  On  the  road-side,  between  these  buildings, 
remains  of  Roman  Houses  and  Cisterns  have  been  excavated. 

On  the  slope  of  the  Odeon  Plateau  (181  ft.),  the  N.E.  con- 
tinuation of  the  abbey-hill,  near  the  bridge  of  the  electric  tramway, 
and  3  min.  to  the  left  of  the  upper  Carthage  and  Sidi  Bou-Sai'd  road 
(p.  350),  are  relics  of  the  Roman  Theatre,  including  several  rows 
of  the  seats  of  the  cavea  (p.  293)  and  parts  of  the  stage-building. 
After  the  partial  restoration  of  the  theatre  a  grand  performance 
took  place  here  in  1908  and  similar  representations  will  be  oc- 
casionally repeated. — A  few  paces  to  the  S.W.  of  the  stage  we 
come  to  the  foundations  of  a  small  Roman  Temple  Circulaire.  To 
the  N.E.  of  the  theatre,  on  the  S.E.  slope  of  the  plateau,  are  the 
more  considerable  remains  of  Roman  Houses,  but  these  have  re- 
cently been  threatened  with  demolition. 

On  the  plateau  itself,  about  a  hundred  paces  above  the  theatre, 
in  the  midst  of  a  Punic  Necropolis  (3rd  cent.  B.C.),  are  relics  of 
pavement  and  several  underground  passages  marking  the  site  of 
the  Odeon,  a  roofed  theatre  (theatrum  tectum)  for  concerts,  built 
under  the  proconsul  Vigellius  Saturninus  (about  212  A.D.).  Both 
the  theatre  and  the  odeon  are  said  to  have  been  destroyed  by  the 
Vandals  in  439. 

Outside  the  old  town-wall  (p.  345),  about  135  yds.  to  the  N.  of 
the  Odeon,  and  3  min.  to  the  W.  of  station  Ste.  Monique  (p.  344), 
lies  an  extensive  early-Christian  cemetery,  in  the  centre  of  which 
lie  the  ruins  of  Damous  el-Karita  (domus  caritatis?),  a  great 
basilica.  This  church,  71  by  49  yds.,  was  built  at  different  periods. 
The  oldest  basilica  with  its  ten  aisles  (4th  cent.)  was  orientated  to 
the  S.E.,  and  the  second,  with  eight  aisles,  probably  of  the  Vandal 
period,  was  turned  towards  the  S.W.  A  third  building,  again  with 
ten  aisles,  evidenced  by  its  reduced  size  the  decline  of  Carthage  in 
the  Byzantine  period,  as  it  consisted  only  of  the  old  transept  con- 
verted into  a  nave  and  of  the  four  N.W.  aisles  of  the  second  basilica. 
Within  the  oldest  nave,  in  the  axis  of  the  first  choir-recess,  a  new 
apse  was  erected.  The  T-shaped  building  thus  resulting,  with  its 
very  short  and  many-aisled  body,  seems  to  have  been  the  model  on 
which  Hassan  ibn  en-N6man  built  the  Kairwan  mosque,  as  well  as 
the  source  of  much  of  its  material  (comp.  pp.  374,  376). 


350     itowfc  53.  CARTHAGE.  Bordj  d-Djedid. 

Adjoining  the  basilica  on  the  N.E.  is  a  vast  semicircular  Atrium 
(see  p.  316),  belonging  to  one  of  the  two  earlier  churches,  with 
remains  of  the  fountain  of  purification  and  of  a  trefoil-shaped 
memorial-chapel  (comp.  p.  317)  built  into  the  colonnade.  On  the 
S.W.  side  of  the  basilica  lie  the  foundations  of  a  Baptistery  with 
an  octagonal  font. 

On  the  outskirts  of  a  small  olive-grove,  reached  either  across  the 
fields  from  Dauious  el-Karita  (in  8  min.)  or  to  the  W.  from  the  Arret 
de  la  Briqueterie  (2  min.;  p.  344),  is  the  Basilica  Maiorum,  excavated 
in  1907.  In  the  Vandal  period  this  was  the  church  of  the  Arian  bishop. 
In  the  Confessio  (10'/2  by  101/4  ft.),  according  to  an  inscription,  the  mar- 
tyrs Perpetua  and  Felicitas  (d.  203;  see  also  below  and  p.  348)  were 
buried.  In  the  contiguous  early-Christian  cemetery  bishops'  tombs  and  a 
cistern  have  been  discovered. 

We  conclude  our  visit  with  a  glance  at  the  ruins  in  the  Plain 
by  the  sea. 

On  the  slope  of  the  Odeon  plateau,  between  the  two  roads  to 
Sidi  Bou-Sa'id,  extends  a  large  Punic  Necropolis  (Necropole  de 
Douimis),  containing  many  rock-tombs  of  the  7-5th  centuries. 
Near  it  are  remains  of  Punic  Pottery  Kilns  and  the  foundations 
of  the  Basilica  of  Dermeche,  a  Byzantine  church  with  double 
aisles  and  traces  of  a  baptistery  with  its  octagonal  font.  A  few 
paces  to  the  N.  we  come  to  a  Roman  Cistern,  85  ft.  deep,  and 
vestiges  of  an  Early  Christian  Monastery  (St.  Stephen's?). 

Close  by  are  the  *Cisterns  of  Bordj  el-Djedid,  on  a  side- 
branch  of  the  lower  road,  the  largest  in  the  ancient  city  after  those 
of  La  Malga,  whence  they  were  supplied.  They  were  restored  in 
1887  and  utilized  for  the  new  waterworks  of  Tunis  (p.  339).  The 
building,  once  dreaded  by  the  natives  as  the  'devil's  cavern'  (Dou- 
ames  ech-Chiatinn) ,  forms  a  rectangle  of  147  by  44  yds.,  with 
seventeen  parallel  barrel- vaults  of  33  by  8  yds.,  two  filtering  basins, 
and  broad  side-passages  (keeper  1j2  fr.). 

Close  to  the  sea,  a  little  to  the  S.E.,  perhaps  on  the  site  of  the 
harbour  of  Kambe  (p.  345),  lie  the  shapeless  ruins  of  the  Thermes 
d'Autonin,  or  Baths  of  Dermeche,  re-erected  under  Antoninus 
Pius  about  145,  once  perhaps  the  largest  at  Carthage. 

Between  the  baths  and  the  ruinous  Turkish  fort  Bordj  el-Djedid 
(49  ft.)  lie  the  foundations  of  the  superb  Roman  Stairs  (Escalier 
Monumental)  which  once  ascended  from  the  quay  to  the  Platea 
Nova,  one  of  the  largest  squares  in  Roman  Carthage.  Their  marble 
blocks  were  used  in  the  building  of  the  cathedral  in  1884. 

An  underground  Roman  building,  with  a  flight  of  twenty-five  steps, 
to  the  N.E.  of  the  Bordj  el-Djedid,  formerly  called  Fanum  (Jereris,  but 
now  termed  Career  Castrensis,  is  said  to  have  been  the  prison  of  the 
martyrs  Perpetua  and  Felicitas  (see  above).  — Near  it  is  a  Roman  Tower 
resembling  a  bastion,  half  in  the  sea. 

On  the  new  road  from  Bordj  el-Djedid  to  station  Ste.  Monique  (p.  344) 
is  the  'Kubba  Bent  el-Re',  a  number  of  underground  chambers  of  unknown 
object,  formerly  called  'Baths  of  Dido'. 


Sidi  Bou-SaXd.  CARTHAGE.  «*•  Route.     351 

A  picturesque  rock-path  skirting  the  abrupt  coast,  besides  the 
two  roads  named  on  p.  350,  leads  from  Carthage  to  Sidi  Bou-Said, 
about  2l/t  M.  from  the  Byrsa.  This  wealthy  and  highly  picturesque 
village,  almost  entirely  Mohammedan,  with  the  bey's  summer  resid- 
ence, a  fine  beach  for  bathing,  and  the  shrine  of  the  local  saint 
(much  frequented  on  Fridays),  lies  at  the  E.  end  of  Cape  Carthage 
or  Cartagena  (423  ft.;  Arabic  Rds  Sluguia),  which  has  kept  its 
Punic  name  throughout  the  ages.  From  the  entrance  to  the  village 
(station  and  cab-stand)  we  ascend  straight  to  a  small  square  with 
several  Arab  caf6s,  then  by  a  path  in  steps  to  the  left,  again  to  the 
left,  and  lastly  to  the  right,  to  the  round  lighthouse  (Phare; 
ij2-l  fr.).  From  the  top  we  enjoy  an  exquisite  *View,  which  is 
finest  by  morning  light,  of  the  site  of  Carthage,  the  whole  of  the 
bay  stretching  to  Cape  Farina  (p.  129),  and  Lake  Bahira  with  its 
mountain  background. 

From  the  lighthouse  a  beautiful  path  leads  past  the  Puste 
Optique  and  behind  the  vineyards  of  the  Archiepiscopal  Palace, 
to  the  Arret  de  la  Corniche  (p.  344)  and  (l/2  hr.)  La  Marsa  (Hot. 
de  la  Regence),  a  village  in  the  fertile  plain  between  Cape  Carthage 
and  Jebel  Khaoui  (see  below),  with  many  country-houses  and  a 
bathing  beach  (dangerous  currents).  About  halfway  between  the  two 
stations  (p.  343)  is  the  Palais  du  Bey,  where  the  present  prince 
(p.  323)  usually  resides.  (Adm.  to  the  stables  only,  containing  the 
state-carriages;  fee  1  fr.) 

To  the  N.W.  of  La  Marsa  extends  Jebel  Khaoui  or  Kraoui  (345  ft.; 
ascent  from  La  Marsa  and  back  visl  Kauiart  ca.  2'/a  hrs.).  On  the  top  and 
the  N.  slope  are  many  rock-tombs,  remains  of  the  Jewish  Necropolis  of 
Roman  Carthage.  Fine  view,  to  the  S.  to  Tunis,  and  to  the  N.W.  over 
the  Sebkha  er-Riana  to  the  Medjerda  delta  as  far  as  Utica  (p.  353).  On 
the  N.  side  of  the  hill,  on  the  reddish  Cape  Kamart.  lies  the  picturesque, 
palm-girt  village  of  Kamart,  with  the  ruined  Bordj  Ben-Aied. 


54.  From  Tunis  to  Bizerta. 

61  M.  Railway.  Express  on  Wed.  only  (back  on  Sat.),  corresponding 
with  the  steamers  of  the  Corap.  Gen.  Transatlantique  (R.  21),  in  2>/a, 
ordinary  trains  in  2'/.r33/4  hrs.  (11  fr.,  8  fr.  35,  5  fr.  90  c.).  — The  High  Road 
(37'/j  M.)  is  recommended  in  the  cool  season  only,  as  the  Medjerda  flats 
are  malarious. 

From  Tunis  to  (15  M.)  Djede'ida,  see  p.  329.  The  train  diver- 
ges here  to  the  N.  from  the  main  line  to  Algeria. 

19  M.  Chaouat;  24  M.  Sidi-Athman,  near  the  Garaa  Mab- 
touha,  backed  by  the  offshoots  of  Jebel  Kechbata  (p.  354).  We  then 
run  through  billy  country,  to  the  W.,  to  (31  M.)  Ain-Rhelal. 

40^2  M.  Mateur  (Rail.  Restaurant;  Hot.  de  France,  etc.; 
pop.  5000,  incl.  1600  Italians),  a  small  town  nearly  1  M.  from  the 
station,  lies  pleasantly  on  a  hill  beyond  the  influx  of  the  Oued 
Tine  into  the  Oued  Jemine  or  Joumine,  and  is  still  enclosed  by 

Bakdekbb'i  Mediterranean.  23 


352     Route  54.  LA  PfiCHERIE.  From  Tunis 

its  old  walls,  built  partly  out  of  the  ruins  of  the  Roman  Oppidum 
Matarense.  It  is  the  corn  and  cattle  market  for  the  fertile  Flames 
tie  Mateur,  which  were  densely  peopled  in  ancient  times,  and  for 
the  Berber  tribes  of  the  Bejaoua  and  Mogod  Mts. 

A  railway  runs  from  Mateur  via.  (17  M.)  Jefna,  in  the  Nefza  Mts.,  to 
Djebel-Abiod  (p.  328),  whence  it  is  being  extended  to  Tabarca  (p.  327). — 
Another  line  connects  Mateur  with  Btja  (p.  328). 

The  train  crosses  the  plain,  to  the  N.,  towards  the  Garaet 
Ichkeul  or  Achlcel,  the  Sisara  Lacus  of  the  ancients,  a  freshwater- 
lake  abounding  in  fish,  but  very  shallow  and  rapidly  filling  up. 
On  the  S.  side  is  a  marshy  tract  where  within  the  last  few  decades 
a  large  herd  of  half-wild  Italian  buffaloes  has  sprung  up.  Above 
it  towers  Jebel  Ichkeul  (1667  ft.),  noted  for  its  marble,  the  chief 
landmark  of  the  bay  of  Bizerta. 

50  M.  Oued-Tindja  (Hot.  de  la  Gare)  lies  on  the  strip  of  land, 
barely  2  M.  broad,  between  Lake  Ichkeul  and  the  Lae  de  Bizerte 
(Arabic  Garaet  Tindja).  Thelatter,the  ancient  Lacus Hipponensis, 
ca.  30,000  acres  in  area  and  40  ft.  deep  at  places,  is  now  the  chief 
French  naval  harbour  on  the  Mediterranean  next  to  Toulon. 

A  strategic  railway  and  a  road  (omn.  20  c.)  lead  to  the  E.  from  Oued- 
Tindja  to  (2  M.)  FerryvHle  (Hot.  de  l'Amirautd;  Hot.  de  l'Arsenal;  pop. 
3000,  largely  Italian  dock-labourers),  the  youngest  town  in  Tunisia,  named 
after  Jules  Ferry  (p.  333),  and  to  (23/4  M.)  the  small  bay  of  Sidi-Abdallah, 
on  which,  9'/a  M.  from  the  open  sea,  a  Naval  Arsenal,  with  five  large 
dry-docks,  was  built  in  1899-1908. 

The  train  crosses  the  Oued  Tindja,  the  sinuous  effluent  of 
Lake  Ichkeul,  and  rounds  the  marshy  W.  bank  of  Lake  Bizerta. 
5572  M.  Sidi-Ahmed,  opposite  Djezira  el-Kebira,  the  largest 
island  in  the  lake. 

59  M.  La  Pecherie,  on  the  Goidet,  a  narrow  arm  of  the  sea  to 
the  N.,  which,  with  the  new  harbour-canal  (p.  353),  connects  the 
dockyard  with  the  open  sea.  On  the  small  Bate  Ponty,  now  used 
as  a  torpedo-boat  station,  rise  the  Arsenal  de  la  Ddfense- Mobile 
and  the  handsome  Amiraule. 

A  road  leads  to  the  S.  from  the  station  through  olive-woods  to  (>/a  M.) 
the  Barrage  des  Pecheries,  two  fish-dams  about  1000  yds.  long,  ad- 
joining the  S.W.  end  of  the  Goulet  (here  55  yds.  across),  where  the  fish 
descending  from  the  lakes  to  spawn  in  the  sea  are  caught  in  great  numbers. 
The  yield,  a  few  years  ago  ca.  580  tons,  but  now  much  reduced,  is  sent 
to  Tunis  and  Marseilles. 

We  pass  the  Bale  de  Sebra,  the  inner  harbour  of  Bizerta,  as 
yet  little  used,  and  the  Artillery  Arsenal,  intersect  the  new  S. 
wall  of  the  town  and  the  garden-suburb  of  Bijouville,  and  reach 
the  station  of  (61  M.)  Bizerta,  on  the  harbour-canal. 

Bizerta.  — Railway  Restaurant.  — Hotels  (comp.  p.  324).  *Grand- 
Hotel,  Place  d'Europe,  in  an  open  site  near  the  station,  R.  3-6,  B.  1,  dej. 
3,  D.  3'/2.  pens.  10-12,  omn.  >/2  'r- !  But.  de  la  Paix,  Hot.  de  France,  etc.  — 
Cab.  Drive  30,  for  S  pers.  40,  with  pair  50  c. ;  hour  l-l'/i  or  V/r2  fr. ;  Va 
day  (6  hrs.)  4,  5,  or  7  fr. ;  whole  day  (12  hrs.)  6,  7,  12,  or  14  fr. 

British  Vice-Consul,  Hon.  T.  Bourlce,  Rue  de  Provence 


to  Bizerta.  BIZERTA.  «•  Route.     353 

Bizerta,  Fr.  Bizerte,  Arabic  Bent-Zert  (pop.  17,300,  of  whom 
9500  are  Moslems,  5100  Italians  and  Maltese),  a  town  strongly 
garrisoned  with  7000  men,  the  ancient  Hippo  Diarrhytus  (Zary- 
tus),  was  one  of  the  earliest  Phoenician  settlements  on  the  Tunisian 
coast.  It  lies  on  the  W.  shore  of  the  Bay  of  Bizerta,  between  a 
range  of  hills  on  the  N.W.,  culminating  in  Jebel  Kebir  (900  ft.), 
and  a  strip  of  land  (once  bounding  the  Bizerta  Lake,  and  also  forti- 
fied), to  the  S.E.,  beyond  the  harbour-caual. 

The  old  town,  to  which  many  Moors  flocked  after  the  fall  of 
Granada  (p.  75),  and  which  was  occupied  for  a  short  time  by 
Charles  V.  on  his  way  back  from  Tunis  in  1535  (p.  323)  and  was 
to  a  great  extent  destroyed  by  a  Venetian  fleet  in  1785,  rises  on 
the  hill-side  between  the  ruined  Kasha  and  the  Fort  cVEspagne, 
both  originally  built  by  the  Spaniards.  The  Old  Harbour,  unim- 
portant in  ancient  times,  became  in  the  16th  cent,  a  favourite  haunt 
of  pirates,  but  is  now  used  by  fishing-boats  only.  Of  the  Old 
Harbour  Canal,  completely  choked  up  with  the  mud  of  centuries, 
the  mouth  alone  now  exists.  The  new  town,  with  its  busy  market 
(Tues.  and  Thurs.),  is  still  in  embryo. 

The  Avant-Port,  215  acres  in  area,  constructed  by  the  Com- 
pagnie  du  Port  de  Bizerte  in  1890-5,  is  sheltered  by  two  piers,  the 
Jctde  du  Nord  (1337  yds.  long)  and  the  Jetee  du  Sud  (1041  yds.), 
aud  by  a  new  mole  or  breakwater  (670  yds.).  The  commercial 
harbour  consists  of  the  New  Harbour  Canal,  1  M.  long,  263  yds. 
broad,  and  33  ft.  deep,  the  entrance  to  the  Goulet  (p.  352),  and  also 
of  the  Baie  de  Sebra  (p.  352).  Two  steam-ferries  (bacs  a  vapeur; 
passage  free)  cross  to  the  N.E.  bank  of  the  canal,  where  there  are 
large  coal-stores  near  the  village  of  Zarzouna. 

The  High  Road  from  Tunis  to  (S7Va  M.)  Bizerta  diverges  to  the  N., 
between  the  Bardo  (p.  339)  and  Kassar-Said  (p.  342),  from  the  road  connect- 
ing Tebourba  with  Medjez  el-Bab  (p.  328),  intersects  the  Roman  *Aqueduct 
of  Carthage  (p.  348),  which  was  here  restored  in  the  16th  cent.,  and  aseends 
through  olive-woods  to  the  saddle  (269  ft.)  between  the  hills  of  Ariana 
(p.  338),  on  the  right,  and  Jebel  Ahmar  (1060  ft.),  on  the  left. 

10  M.  La  Sebala  lies  on  the  S.  edge  of  the  marshy  Medjerda  delta 
(p.  129),  now  called  Sebala.  16  M.  Fondouk  el-Kantara,  a  caravanserai 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Medjerda,  near  the  old  seven-arched  bridge. 

Just  beyond  (19V2M.)  Oited  Cherchara  a  road  branches  off,  to  theN.E., 
past  the  spurs  of  Jebel  Menzel  Roul  (541  ft.),  once  a  cape,  to  (2  M.)  the 
ruins  of  TJtica,  the  earliest  Phoenician  settlement  in  this  region.  Before 
the  rise  of  Carthage  it  was  the  richest  trading  town  in  Barbary,  and  from 
146  to  29  B.C.  it  was  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Africa  and  seat  of 
the  Roman  proconsul.  It  was  here  that  the  younger  Cato  committed  suicide 
(46  B.C.)  on  the  overthrow  of  Pompey's  party  in  the  civil  war  against 
Caesar.  The  harbour,  entirely  silted  up  since  the  middle  of  the  3rd  cent., 
lay  between  the  cape  and  a  small  island  off  the  coast.  The  sea  is  now 
6'/a  M.,  and  the  mouth  of  the  Medjerda,  near  the  Porto-Farina  lagoon 
(p.  354),  is  nearly  10  M.  distant.  The  Roman  town  was  destroyed  by 
Hassan  ibn  en-Noman  (p.  322)  in  698,  at  the  same  time  as  Carthage.  The 
ruins,  now  called  Henchir  Bou-Chateur,  consist  chiefly  of  the  aqueduct 
and  cisterns,  a  theatre,  a  vast  amphitheatre,  and  large  thermal. 

23* 


354     Route  55.  TESTOUR.  From  Tunis 

Beyond  Jebel  Menzel  Roul  the  Bizerta  road  traverses  a  desolate  plain, 
strewn  with  Roman  ruins.  On  the  S.E.  side  of  Jebel  Kechbata  (1370  ft.), 
and  also  in  the  marshy  plain  beyond  it,  roads  diverge  to  the  right  (one 
12'/2>  the  other  15  M.)  to  Porto-Farina  (pop.  1400,  incl.  320  Europeans, 
mostly  Maltese),  the  Rnscinova  of  antiquity,  a  notorious  pirates'  harbour 
in  the  Turkish  period.  In  1665  it  was  destroyed  by  an  English  fleet, 
but  it  was  restored  and  fortified  by  Ahmed  Bey  (1837-55).  Potatoes  are 
largely  cultivated  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  Lac  de  Porto-Farina,  on 
the  S.  side  of  Jebel  Nadotw  (883  ft.),  once  abounding  in  fish,  has  been 
filled  up  by  the  deposits  of  the  Medjerda  since  the  middle  of  last  century. 

Beyond  the  dunes  of  Ain  Bou-Ras,  where  the  new  water-conduit  of 
Bizerta,  8>/2  M.  long,  has  its  source,  our  road  runs  close  to  the  lake  of 
Bizerta,  passes  (34'/a  M.)  Menzel  Djemil,  and  ends  on  the  old  neck  of  land 
on  the  harbour-canal  of  (37'/a  M.)  Bizerta  (see  p.  358). 


55.  Prom  Tunis  to  Dougga  (Le  Kef), 

Excursionists  to  Dougga  usually  start  from  the  station  of  Medjez  el- 
Bab  (Hot.  des  Colons;  p.  328),  41  M.  bv  train  from  the  S.  Station  at  Tunis 
(in  l*/«'2Vi  hrs. ;  fares  7  fr.  40,  5  fr.  60,  3  fr.  95,  return  10  fr.  35,  7  fr.  85, 
5  fr.  55  c).  Thence  by  motor-omnibus  (starting  every  morning;  5  fr.)  to 
Dougga  direct.  Or  we  may  take  a  carriage  (30  fr. ;  ordered  in  advance 
at  the  Hot.  des  Colons)  or  the  diligence  (6  hrs.;  2'/2  f*0  from  Medjez  el- 
Bab  to  (28  M.)  Teboursouk,  whence  we  go  on  to  (33/4  M.)  Dougga  by  carr. 
(5-6  fr.)  or  on  mule-back  (3-4  fr.).  —  The  journey  may  be  made  also  from 
the  station  of  Pont-de- Trajan  (p.  327;  66y2  M.  by  railway  in  23/„-4hrs.; 
fares  12  fr.,  9  fr.  10,  6  fr.  40  c.) ;  ride  thence  (mule  being  ordered  beforehand 
at  Beja,  p.  328)  via  Henchir  Madtria  to  (17'/2M.)  Teboursouk;  or  from 
the  station  of  Gaffour  (p.  360;  75  M.  in  4i/a-5'/?  hrs.;  fares  13  fr.  55, 
10  fr.  30,  7  fr.  25  c.) ;  ride  thence  across  Jebel  Sidi  AbdaUah  Ben-C'heid 
to  (19  M.)  Teboursouk. 

The  excursion  from  Tunis  to  Dougga  and  back,  in  one  day,  is  far 
more  easily  made  by  motor-car  (p.  330).  Motoring  parties  are  occasionally 
formed  at  the  tourist  offices  (p.  331). 

From  Tunis  to  (41  M.)  Medjez  el-Bab  by  railway,  see  pp.  329, 
328.  —  The  two  roads  from  Tunis  to  Medjez  el-Bab,  one  direct 
(35y2  M.)  via  Bordj  el-Amri,  the  other,  passing  the  station  and 
running  via  Djede'ida  anfl  Tebourba  (p.  329),  unite  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Medjerda,  near  the  bridge  (p.  328). 

Our  road  leads  from  Medjez  el-Bab  in  the  same  direction  as 
the  Roman  road  from  Carthage  to  Tebessa  (see  p.  328),  to  the  S.W., 
generally  a  little  apart  from  the  Medjerda,  past  a  good  many  Roman 
ruins.  9  M.  Slouguia  (299  ft. ;  the  ancient  Chidibbia),  a  village 
with  a  slender  minaret,  lies  on  a  hill  on  the  right  bank. 

The  road  then  leads  through  olive-woods  and  vineyards  to 
(12  M.)  Testour,  on  the  site  of  the  Roman  Tichilla,  now  a  little 
town  of  3500  inhab.,  mostly  descendants  of  Andalusian  Moors,  with 
thriving  potteries  and  a  large  Friday  market. 

We  cross  the  Oued  Siliana,  not  far  from  its  influx  into  the 
Medjerda,  and  then  ascend  in  long  windings  above  the  valley  of 
the  Oued  Khalled,  a  tributary  of  the  Medjerda. 

18  M.  Ain-Tounga  (821  ft.;  no  inn),  on  the  N.  slope  of  Jebel 
Tounga  (1575  ft.),  the  site  of  the  small  Roman  town  of  Thignica,  has 


to  Dougga,  DOUGGA.  B5.  Route.      355 

the  ruins  of  two  triumphal  arches,  a  temple  of  Mercury  (170  A.D.), 
and  a  Byzantine  fortress. 

We  descend,  in  sight  of  Teboursouk  and  the  distant  capitol  of 
Dougga,  into  the  valley  of  the  Oued  Khalled.  We  pass  through 
many  side-valleys,  cross  the  river,  and  then  ascend  a  branch  of 
the  road  to  the  right,  soon  joining  the  Gaffour  road  (p.  360). 

28  M.  Teboursouk  (1378  ft.;  H6t.  International,  R.  372, 
B.  1/2,  dej.  3,  D.  3Y2,  pens.  10  fr.,  quite  good,  but  charges  should 
be  agreed  upon  beforehand;  Hot.  de  la  Poste,  humble;  pop.  3000, 
incl.  300  Europeans)  has  a  fine  open  site  on  the  olive-clad  slope 
of  Kef  Teboursouk,  high  above  the  valley  of  the  Oued  Zebbls. 
Into  the  walls  of  the  narrow  and  picturesque  streets  are  built  many 
fragments  from  the  ruins  of  the  once  considerable  town  of  Thubur- 
sicum  Bure.  We  note  also  the  Byzantine  Fortress  (with  remains 
of  a  Roman  triumphal  arch  in  its  N.  wall)  and  the  Neo- Punic 
Burial  Ground,  to  the  S.W.  of  the  town.  A  superb  distant  view 
is  obtained  at  the  ruined  tower  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town. 

The  rough,  hilly  road  from  Pont-de-Trajan  (p.  327)  to  Teboursouk 
eads  through  the  rugged  hill-region  to  the  S.  of  the  Medjerda,  and  passea 
(12V2  M.)  Henchir  Madtria,  the  ruins  of  the  small  Roman  town  of  Num- 
luli  or  Numiulis  (foundations  of  the  capitol  of  170  A.  D.,  early-Christian 
chapel  in  quatrefoil  form  with  four  apses,  and  Byzantine  fort).  It  ends 
at  the  N.  gate  of  (17l/3  M.)  Teboursouk. 

The  Road  to  Dougga,  33/4  M.  from  Teboursouk,  leaves  the  Le 
Kef  road  (p.  357)  after  1/2  M.  and  ascends  to  the  S.W.  over  a 
plateau  thinly  overgrown  with  scrub. 

Dougga  (about  1970  ft.),  a  poor  Berber  village  on  the  S.  mar- 
gin of  Kef  Dougga,  is  the  ancient  Thvgga,  one  of  the  oldest 
and  most  important  places  in  the  heart  of  Tunisia.  The  site  of  the 
ruins,  which  vie  with  those  of  Gightis  (p.  392),  is  the  most  beau- 
tiful in  the  whole  country.  The  name  is  of  Berber  origin  (thukka, 
pasture).  It  appears  to  have  been  the  seat  of  a  Berber  dynasty 
allied  with  Carthage.  It  then  belonged  successively  to  the  Cartha- 
ginian dominions  and  to  those  of  Masinissa  (p.  321),  and  attained 
its  prime  about  the  end  of  the  2nd  cent.  A.  D.  The  grand  late- 
Roman  ruins,  partly  excavated  since  1891,  the  venerable  olive- 
woods  on  Kef  Dougga,  and  the  view  of  the  Oued  Khalled  valley 
and  of  the  N.  Tunisian  hills,  stretching  far  away  to  Jebel  Zaghouan 
and  Jebel  Bou-Kornin  (p.  363),  combine  to  form  a  fascinating  pic- 
ture. On  the  N.W.  horizon  is  Jebel  Gorra  (3160  ft.),  famed  ever 
since  ancient  times  for  its  lead  and  zinc  mines. 

Comp.  'Thugga',  by  Dr.  Carton  (Tunis;  2'/afr.). 

The  olb  Porte  de  I'Est,  where  a  branch  of  the  Tebessa  road 
ended,  and  the  Thermae  near  it  are  entirely  ruined. 

From  that  gate  we  walk  along  the  S.  slope  of  the  hill  to  the 
*Mau8oleum  of  a  Berber  prince  (5th  or  4th  cent.  B.C.),  probably 
the  oldest  existing  Punic-Libyan  monument  of  the  kind. 


356     Route  65.  DOUGGA.  Roman  Theatre 

Built  in  the  style  of  the  Egyptian  and  Syrian  tombs  of  kings,  the 
mausoleum,  originally  about  55  ft.  high,  consisted  of  a  pile  of  huge  lime- 
stone blocks.  The  substructure,  resting  on  a  foundation  of  six  steps,  is 
adorned  with  narrow  corner-pillars  and  three  blind  windows.  The  middle 
part,  which  is  square,  rises  above  three  steps  and  has  two  portals  flanked 
with  Ionic  mural  columns  and  an  Egyptian  concave  moulding  instead  of 
a  cornice.  Three  more  steps,  once  embellished  at  the  angles  with  figures 
on  horseback,  bore  a  small  pyramid  crowned  with  the  figure  of  a  lion. 
The  upper  part  was  unfortunately  destroyed  in  1842  by  natives  employed 
by  Sir  T.  Reade,  with  the  bey's  permission,  to  remove  the  inscription 
in  the  Phoenician  and  the  Libyan  language,  which  is  now  in  the  British 
Museum.  The  monument,  however,  has  been  recently  completely  restored 
The  tomb-chamber  is  probably  underneath  the  monument. 

Passing  through  the  village,  to  the  W.,  we  come  to  the  ruins 
of  other  Thermae  and  the  so-called  Ddr  el-Acheb,  a  Roman  build- 
ing of  some  kind,  of  which  the  steps  and  facade  alone  remain. 
"We  ascend  thence  to  the  N.E.,  past  the  foundations  of  Roman 
Houses,  to  the  hill  of  the  Capitol. 

The  *Capitol  (comp.  p.  288),  the  conspicuous  landmark  of 
Dougga,  is  one  of  the  finest  ruined  temples  in  Tunisia,  vying  with 
the  three  temples  of  Sbel'tla  (p.  371).  It  is  a  Corinthian  pseudo- 
peripteros,  with  a  lofty  flight  of  eleven  steps  and  a  portico  of  six 
columns,  43  ft.  high  and  24  ft.  deep,  the  whole  consisting  of  great 
limestone  blocks.  The  square  cella,  15  by  14  yds.,  has  been  de- 
stroyed ,  with  the  exception  of  the  portal  and  the  stone-panelled 
back-wall,  with  its  semicircular  niche  in  the  centre  and  two  square 
side-niches  for  images.  The  inscription  on  the  frieze  of  the  por- 
tico, of  the  time  of  Marcus  Aurelius  (166-9  A.D.),  names  two  citi- 
zens of  Thugga  as  the  founders.  In  the  Byzantine  period  the  temple 
formed  the  nucleus  of  the  citadel. 

The  **Roman  Theatre,  on  the  hill-side  a  little  to  the  E.  of  the 
Capitol,  is  not  only  the  best-preserved  in  N.  Africa  but  is  unique 
in  the  richness  and  beauty  of  its  embellishment.  The  twenty-five 
tiers  of  seats  in  the  Cavea,  or  auditorium,  are  almost  intact,  except 
that  the  upper  colonnade  has  fallen  into  the  orchestra.  The  stage 
(pulpitum)  still  has  the  old  pavement,  the  front-wall,  articulated 
like  similar  structures  in  Algeria,  and  the  superb  rear  wall,  with 
its  three  niches  and  remains  of  rich  columnar  decoration.  The 
founder  of  the  building,  as  recorded  by  the  inscription  now  lying 
on  the  ground,  was  the  flamen  perpetuus  L.  Marcius  Quadratus. 

Of  the  Forum  and  of  the  street  connecting  it  with  the  Capitol 
fragments  of  the  pavement  only  have  been  unearthed. 

The  *Temple  of  Cselestis,  in  the  olive-wood  to  the  N.W.  of  the 
Capitol,  is  the  strangest  ruin  at  Dougga.  The  crescent-shaped  court 
represents  the  half-moon,  the  symbol  of  the  Punic  goddess  Tanit, 
or  Astarte,  whose  name  was  Latinized  in  the  Roman  period. 

The  ruin  stands  on  the  hill-side,  supported  by  huge  substructures 
The  court  terminated  in  a  rectangular  antechamber,  46  by  20  yds.  The  two 
entrances,  with  dedicatory  inscriptions,  lay  at  the  sides,  preceded  by 
square  chambers  (or  towers).    The  semicircular  wall  of  the  oourt  (57  yds. 


Temple  of  Satr/rv  DOUGGA.  65.  Route.      357 

in  diameter),  in  concrete,  is  partly  preserved.  A  large  hall  here,  with  two 
corner-pillars  and  twenty-three  Corinthian  columns,  formed  along  with  the 
antechamber  the  meeting-place  of  the  congregation.  The  temple  itself, 
in  the  centre  of  the  court,  which  was  probably  planted  with  trees,  was 
a  rectangle  of  18'/a  by  10'/2  yds.,  but  its  foundations  alone  survive.  The 
flight  of  steps  and  the  two  semicircular  apses  at  the  back  of  the  cella  date 
from  a  restoration  in  the  Byzantine  period.  The  inscription  names  a 
wealthy  citizen  of  the  time  of  Alex.  Severus  as  the  founder  (222-35). 

"We  next  walk  through  olive-wood  to  the  E.  to  the  Roman  Cis- 
terns, once  fed  by  the  partly  preserved  aqueduct  of  Ai'n  el-Hammam 
(S."\V.  of  Dougga),  and  then,  past  the  ancient  N.  gate  of  the  town,  the 
Arch  of  Alexander  Severus,  called  by  the  Arabs  Btib  er-Rilmia 
('gate  of  the  Christian  woman'),  to  the  ruins  of  the  Numidic  Citadel 
and  the  Roman  Hippodrome.  Near  this  is  the  ancient  Berber 
Burial  Ground,  containing  several  dolmens. 

On  the  steep  slope  of  a  bare  hill  to  the  N.N.E.  of  the  Theatre, 
and  once  no  less  conspicuous  than  the  Capitol,  was  enthroned  the 
Temple  of  Saturn,  founded  by  a  rich  citizen  in  195  A.D.  The 
ruin  probably  stands  on  the  site  of  a  Punic  temple  of  Baal  Hainan. 
The  peculiar  ground-plan  is  reminiscent  of  the  Phoenician  temples, 
whose  open  colonnaded  courts  contained  altars  for  burnt  offerings. 

The  pronaos  or  vestibule,  resembling  a  corridor,  to  which  there 
was  an  approach  at  the  S.  end  only,  had  a  portico  of  four  Corinthian 
columns  facing  the  E.,  high  above  the  Oued  Khalled;  but  of  all  this 
there  are  but  scanty  traces.  From  the  pronaos  a  small  gate  admit- 
ted into  a  quadrangle,  paved  with  limestone  slabs,  and  enclosed  on 
three  sides  by  Corinthian  colonnades.  On  the  W.  side  these  were 
divided  by  partitions  into  three  sections,  forming  ante-rooms  to  the 
three  cellae.  The  raised  central  cella,  once  railed  in,  was  the  chief 
shrine,  richly  adorned  with  wall-paintings  and  reliefs  in  stucco. 


The  High  Road  (from  Medjez  el-Bab)  to  Le  Kef,  which  is  joined 
by  the  road  from  Teboursouk  3  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  latter,  runs  high  above 
the  Oued  Khalled,  and  soon  passes  (32  M.  from  Medjez  el-Bab)  A'in-Hedja 
(about  1300  ft.),  below  the  ruins  of  Agbia  (Byzantine  fortress,  etc.). 
Farther  on,  leaving  the  zinc-mines  of  Jebel  Fedj  el-Adoum  on  one  side, 
we  traverse  the  hill-country  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Plaine  du  Krib  (p.  360). 

38  M.  Ain-Rharsalla  (about  1600  ft.),  below  the  Byzantine  castle  of 
Aunobarls.  39  M.  Kubba  Sidi  Abd  er-Rehou,  not  far  from  Henchir  Mest, 
the  ruins  of  Mustis  (including  two  arches  on  the  Tebessa  road,  one  being 
a  triumphal  arch  of  Gordian  III.). 

46  M.  Bordj  Messaoudi,  a  large  caravanserai,  with  Friday  market  for 
the  peasants  of  the  Krib,  adjoins  the  ruins  of  the  small  town  of  Thacia, 
near  which  the  Roman  road  to  Le  Kef  diverged  from  the  road  to  Tebessa. 
We  descend  into  the  valley  of  the  Oued  Tessa,  a  tributary  of  the  Oued 
Mellegue  (p.  327),  and  then,  on  the  N.  slope  of  Jebel  Kebouch  (2723  ft.), 
pass  a  Roman  Bridge  and  the  ruins  of  Ucnbis. 

The  road  now  skirts  the  Dyr  el- Kef  (3570  ft.;  'rock-plateau'),  with  its 
Poste  Optique,  and  in  the  plain  of  Bled.  Zafran  (p.  360)  joins  the  road  from 
Maktar  (p.  360)  and,  a  little  farther  on,  that  from  Souk  el-Arba  (p.  326). 

70  M.  Le  Kef,  see  p.  360 


358 

56.  From  Tunis  to  Le  Kef  and  Kalaa-Djerda. 

From  Tunis  to  Lb  Kef,  125</2  M.,  railway,  two  trains  daily  in  8T/.»-9  brs. 
(fares  22  fr.  60,  17  fr.  15,  12  fr.  10  o.)j  also  local  trains  from  Tunis  to  Pont- 
du-Fahs  and  Gaffour. —  From  Tunis  to  Kalaa-Djerda,  146  M.,  two  trains 
daily  in  10-11  hrs.  (fares  26  fr.  30  c,  20  fr.,  14  fr.  10  c);  also  a  local  train 
between  Gaffour  and  Kalaa-Djerda.  —  Railway  Restaurants  at  Gaffour  and 
Les  Salines  only. 

Tunis,  see  p.  329.  Our  line  diverges,  to  the  S.E.,  near  Bab 
Alleoua  (p.  339),  from  the  Algeria  and  Bizerta  line  (RR.  51,  54)  and 
skirts  Lake  Bahira  below  the  Zaoiiia  Sidi  Bel-Hassen  (p.  339). 

21/s  M.  Djebel-Djelloud,  close  to  the  Jebel  Djelloud  (138  ft.) 
is  the  junction  for  Susa  (R.  57)  and  has  railway-works,  large  quar- 
ries, and  lime-kilns. 

The  train  now  runs  to  the  N.E.  to  (5  M.)  Bir-Kassa. 

Branch  Line  to  La  Laverie  (17'/2  M.  from  Tunis,  in  ca.  l3/4  hr. ;  2  fr.  80, 
2  fr.  10,  1  fr.  40  c;  many  stops).  Beyond  (6  M.  from  Tunis)  Bordj-Gourbel 
the  Owed  Miliane  (p.  363)  is  crossed.  On  the  right  bank  is  the  fertile,  olive- 
clad  Plaine  dti  Mornag.  13  M.  Haut-Momag-  Cre'te'ville,  at  the  S.  base 
of  Jebel  Bou-Kornin  (p.  363).  Cr£t6ville  lies  on  the  road  from  Tunis  to 
Grombalia  (p.  364),  near  the  grand  Khangnet  el-Hacljadj  ('pilgrim-pass'), 
a  deep  ravine  between  Jebel  Bou-Kornin  and  Jebel  Ressas  (see  below), 
through  which  formerly  passed  the  traffic  between  the  interior  and  the 
harbours  on  the  E.  seaboard.  In  this  defile,  now  clothed  with  vineyards, 
lay  the  little  town  of  Neferis,  which  was  destroyed  by  the  Romans  at 
the  same  time  as  Carthage.  17'/s  M.  (from  Tunis)  La  Laverie  (377  ft.) 
is  a  village  of  Italian  miners,  at  the  W.  foot  of  Jebel  Ressas  (2608  ft.; 
'lead-mountain'),  where  lead-mines  were  already  worked  in  Roman  times. 

Beyond  (8  M.)  Nassen  we  cross  the  Miliane.  12^/,,  M.  Kliledia. 

15  M.  Oudna.  In  the  hill -country,  1/2  hr.  to  the  S.E.,  is 
the  large  Ferme  Ducroquet,  situated  among  the  ruins  of  Ulhina, 
one  of  the  wealthiest  towns  of  N.  Tunisia  in  the  Roman  age.  Of 
the  public  buildings  nothing  remains  but  the  Cisterns  and  scanty 
traces  of  the  Theatre  and  Amphitheatre.  Among  the  ruins  of  pri- 
vate houses  is  the  Palace  of  the  Laberii  (end  of  3rd  cent.  A.D.), 
a  fine  specimen  of  a  sumptuous  African-Roman  dwelling,  with  a 
large  peristyle  as  its  centre  (comp.  p.  290)  and  numerous  mosaics 
(now  mostly  in  the  Bardo  Museum).  The  adjoining  Balineum 
(baths)  was  long  used,  from  the  5th  cent,  onwards,  as  a  potter's 
workshop.  Fine  view  from  the  highest  hill  (407  ft.) ;  on  a  lower 
hill  is  a  Byzantine  Fortress. 

Beyond  Oudna  the  line  intersects  the  Roman  *Aqueduct  of 
Carthage  (p.  359),  in  a  landscape  bright  with  flowers  in  spring. 

17^2  M.  Bou  er-Rebia,  on  the  Tunis  and  Zaghouan  road  (p.  359). 

227a  M.  Djebel-Oust  lies  at  the  N.  base  of  Jebel  Oust  (1800  ft), 
on  which  are  noteworthy  remains  of  two  large  piscinfe,  Roman  irri- 
gation-works, and  marble  quarries,  worked  since  ancient  times. 

30^2  M.  Smindja  or  Depienne  (450  ft.),  a  village  of  'colonists' 
in  the  Plaine  de  Smindja,  a  dale,  containing  numerous  ruins,  at 
the  foot  of  the  Zaghouan  hills. 


ZAGHOUAN.  56.  Route.     359 

Branch  Link  to  Zaohouan  (8  M.,  in  '/a  nr-  i  fares  1  fr.  45,  1  fr.  10  c, 
75  c. :  return-ticket  from  Tunis  9  fr.  75,  7  fr.  35,  5  fr.  20  c).  At  Moyhrane 
(525  ft.),  the  only  intermediate  station,  the  two  Roman  aqueducts  and  the 
modern  conduits  (p.  339)  from  Jebel  Zaghouan  and  Jebel  Djouggar  unite. 

The  Road  from  Tunis  to  Zaghouan  (34'/2  M.)  leads  past  the  Abattoirs 
(beyond  PI.  E,  7)  and  the  Sebkha  es-Sedjoumi  (p.  332)  to  (8  M.)  La  Mo- 
hamedia,  a  poor  village,  with  the  decayed  residence  of  Ahmed  Rev 
(p.  344).  It  crosses  the  Oued  Miliane  near  the  arches  of  the  Roman  aqueduct, 
here  66  ft.  high,  and  beyond  Bon  er-Rebia  (p.  358)  leads  along  the  E. 
slope  of  Jebel  Oust  to  (34V2  M.)  Zaghouan.  A  branch  of  the  road  from 
La  Mohamedia,  passing  Oudna  (p.  358),  also  leads  to  Zaghouan. 

Zaghouan  (821  ft.;  Hot.  de  France,  ddj.  3  fr.,  plain  but  quite  good, 
orders  should  be  given  in  advance;  pop.  1200,  incl.  530  Europeans,  mostly 
Ital.),  Arab.  Zaghwdn,  a  charming  place,  specially  in  spring,  lies  amidst 
olives,  oranges,  and  cypresses  on  a  terrace  at  the  foot  of  Jebel  Zaghouan 
(see  below),  >/4  hr.  above  the  station.  The  Roman  Triumphal  Arch,  at  the 
entrance  to  the  village,  is  the  sole  relic  of  the  small  town  of  Onellana  (?) ; 
the  columns  of  the  nymphreum  now  adorn  the  Chief  Mosque. 

We  may  thence  walk  in  >/2  nr-  to  the  Prise  d'Eau  (902  ft.),  the  reser- 
voir of  the  new  conduit  which  supplies  both  Zaghouan  and  Tunis  with 
water  from  the  Ain  Ayed.  The  direct  route  leads  from  the  station  past  the 
barracks  of  the  tirailleurs;  or  we  may  follow  a  rough  but  romantic  path 
from  the  little  town,  through  a  secluded  valley,  where  numerous  night- 
ingales nest  among  the  oleander-bushes  by  the  bed  of  the  stream.  From 
the  Prise  d'Eau  a  rocky  path  leads  to  the  S.W.  to  the  (12  min.)  *Nymph^eum 
iTemple  des  Eaux;  Arabic  Haicldr  A'in-Easba,  'ruined  castle  of  the 
fountain'),  the  well-house  of  the  Carthage  aqueduct  (p.  348),  shaded  by 
groups  of  splendid  old  trees.  Near  the  basin  are  two  flights  of  steps  lead- 
ing to  the  semicircle  of  the  fountain-shrine,  with  its  colonnade,  twenty- 
four  empty  niches  for  statues,  and  a  domed  central  chamber,  the  ante-room 
of  the  cella. 

*  Jebel  Zaghouan  (4245  ft.),  the  ancient  Mons  Ziquensis,  the  finest 
mountain  in  Tunisia,  offers  from  the  summit,  called  Rds  el-Easa,  a  superb 
panorama  of  the  greater  part  of  N.  Tunisia  and  of  the  E.  coast  as  far 
as  Susa.  It  is  ascended  from  the  NyniphaBiim  path  in  4  hrs.,  past  the 
kubba  of  Sidi  Sala  Bou-Ghobrin  (2264  ft.)  and  the  zinc-mines  (with  their 
humble  canteen),  and  lastly  by  rough  and  toilsome  paths.  Less  extensive, 
but  also  very  grand,  is  the  view  near  the  Poste  Optique  (3199  ft.),  2  hrs. 
above  the  Prise  d'Eau  (bridle-path;  mule  2-3  fr.). 

Our  train,  running  to  the  S.W.  with  a  fine  view  of  Jebel 
Zaghouan  on  the  left,  now  intersects  the  Smindja  plain  and  reaches 
the  Fahs  er-Riah,  the  fertile  upper  basin  of  the  valley  of  the 
Oued  Miliane,  which  is  here  formed  by  the  Oued  Jarabia  and  tho 
Oued  el-Ke'bir.  Its  inhabitants  are  of  the  Riah  tribe,  descendants 
of  the  Beni  Hilal  (p.  323). 

40  M.  Ponl-du-Falts  (574  ft.).  The  village  (Hot.  Calega,  poor), 
occupied  by  immigrants,  lies  l/2  hr.  to  the  N.E.,  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Miliane.  Behind  it,  on  the  spurs  of  Jebel  Djaffar  (1185  ft.), 
are  the  extensive  ruins  of  Henchir-Kasbat  (702  ft.),  the  ancient 
Tliuburbo  Majus;  in  the  forum  are  two  ruined  temples,  one  of 
them,  dedicated  to  Mercury,  dating  from  211  A.D. ;  there  are  also 
triumphal  arches,  thermae,  and  a  Byzantine  fortress. 

On  the  right  rises  the  curiously  shaped  Jebel  Klab  (1204  ft.). 
We  cross  the  Oued  el-Kebir  and  run  to  the  W.  through  the  Jarabia 
\  alley  to  (48'/,  M.)   Tarf  ech-Chena,  3  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Apisa 


360     Route  56  MAKTAR.  From  Tuins 

Majus.  Farther  on  almost  the  only  habitations  visible  are  the 
tents  and  gourbis  (twig-huts)  of  nomadic  tribes. 

Beyond  (557s  M-)  Bou-Arada  we  cross  the  watershed  between 
the  Oued  Miliane  and  the  Oued  Siliana  (p.  354). 

65  M.  El-Aroussa,  station  for  Ksar  Hellal,  which  has  an 
early-Christian  chapel  of  trefoil  form.  70  M.  Sidi-Aycd,  on  the 
Oued  Siliana.    We  then  ascend  the  winding  valley  to  the  S.W. 

75  M.  Gaffour  (about  1080  ft.;  Rail.  Restaurant,  with  rooms), 
with  its  railway-works,  is  the  station  for  the  large  estate  of  the 
Societ6  Fonciere  de  Tunisie,  72,500  acres  in  area,  where  extensive 
corn-fields  are  seen  in  spring.  From  Gaffour  a  road,  tolerably  fit 
for  driving  in  dry  weather,  leads  over  Jebel  Sidi  Abdalla  Ben- 
Cheid  (2070  ft.)  to  Teboursouk  (Dougga;  comp.  p.  354). 

82  M.  El-Alchouat,  in  the  valley  of  the  Oued  Soufi,  near  the 
zinc-mines  on  Jebel  el-Akhouat  (2061  ft.) ;  86^2  M.  Le  Krib,  on 
the  S.  edge  of  the  fertile  Plaine  du  Krib. 

93  M.  Sidi  Bou-Rouis,  on  the  Oued  Tessa  (p.  357),  which 
here  forms  a  wide  bend  to  the  E.  round  Jebel  Ma'iza  (2920  ft.). 
To  the  left  rises  the  chain  of  Jebel  Massouge  (3019  ft.).  103  M. 
Le  Sers,  on  the  N.  margin  of  the  broad  dale  of  that  name  (Arabic 
Bled  es-Sers),  one  of  the  most  fertile  inland  districts  in  Tunisia. 

106  M.  Las  Salines  (Rail.  Restaurant),  junction  for  Kalaa- 
Djerda  (see  p.  361),  lies  on  the  highroad  from  Le  Kef  to  Souk  et- 
Tleta  and  on  a  rough  road  to  (19  M.)  Maktar. 

Maktar  (3117  ft.;  inn),  the  Maktarium  of  the  Libyans  and  the  JEUa 
Aurelia  Azigiista  Mactaris  of  the  Romans,  to  the  W.  of  the  richly  wooded 
Hammada  Kessera,  is  now  a  small  village  of  'colonists'  with  a  fortified 
bordj  (Controle  Civil;  containing  an  epigraphical  collection),  and  is  the 
administrative  centre  for  the  district  of  the  Ouled  Aoun  and  Ouled  Ayar. 
Extensive  orchards  and  Sunday  market.  Among  the.  antiquities  are  nume- 
rous dolmens,  Roman  ruins  (arch  of  Trajan  of  116  A.D.,  mausolea,  an 
aqueduct,  etc.),  and  an  early-Christian  basilica. 

The  train  next  ascends  to  the  N.W.,  between  Jebel  Malza,  on 
the  right,  and  Jebel  Lorbeus  (2641  ft.),  on  the  left,  and  crosses 
the  Oued  Lorbeus,  up  whose  valley  once  lay  the  Roman  Lares, 
later  Lorbeus,  a  small  town  destroyed  in  1048  by  the  Hilalides 
(p.  323).  — 118  M.  Zafran,  on  the  spurs  of  Jebel  Zafran.  Trav- 
ersing the  bleak  mountain  plain  of  Bled  Zafran  we  soon  have  a 
fine  view  of  Le  Kef  and  the  barren  Dyr  el-Kef  (p.  357). 

1257s  M.  Le  Kef  (2477  ft.;  Hot.  Dalban,  Milauo,  etc.,  very 
plain;  pop.  7000,  incl.  1400  Europeans,  900  of  them  Italians), 
superbly  situated  near  an  abrupt  rocky  slope,  the  S.W.  spur  of 
Dyr  el-Kef,  was  down  to  modern  times  the  chief  town  in  W.  Tunisia. 
In  its  earliest  period  it  was  famed  for  its  temple  of  Astarte.  After 
the  first  Punic  war  the  discontented  mercenaries  (p.  332)  were  ban- 
ished hither.  Under  Augustus  the  town  became  a  Roman  colony 
named  Sicca,  with  the  cognomen  of  Veneria  derived  from  its  temple 
of  Venus.    Under  the  later  Roman  empire  it  was  of  great  strategic 


to  Kala&Djerda.  LE  KEF.  66.  Route.      361 

importance,  lying  at  the  junction  of  the  roads  to  Thacia  (p.  357), 
Theveste  (Tebessa),  Thagaste  (p.  313),  and  Simitthu  (p.  326);  by 
the  Arabs  it  was  even  regarded  as  the  key  of  Algeria.  During  the 
Turkish  period  fierce  battles  were  fought  under  its  walls  (in  1694, 
1705,  and  1807)  between  the  beys  of  Tunisia  and  Algeria,  and 
during  the  French  advance  in  1881  Le  Kef  was  hardly  a  less  im- 
portant objective  than  Tunis  itself.  Since  then  the  mosques  have 
been  open  to  visitors  (tickets  at  the  Controle  Civil). 

From  the  station  (omnibus)  we  ascend  through  the  new  European 
quarter,  with  its  red-tiled  roofs,  to  (20  min.)  the  Boulevard  de  Tunis, 
once  the  rampart  on  the  N.W.  side  of  the  town,  where  we  have  an 
extensive  view.  The  only  Roman  ruins  are  the  basin  of  Ain  el-Kef 
and  the  Thermae  at  the  W.  angle  of  the  old  town. 

The  old  town,  still  enclosed  on  three  sides  by  the  mouldering 
Turkish  wall,  consists  of  narrow  and  irregular  streets  built  partly 
out  of  Roman  and  Byzantine  ruins.  The  old  Ddr  el-Bey  is  now 
the  Hotel  de  Ville.  The  Chief  Mosque  (Djamaa  el-Kebira)  is  built 
into  the  ruins  of  an  early-Christian  basilica  (?). 

The  early-Christian  *Church  of  St.  Peter  (Arabic  Ddr  el- 
Kuss)  was  a  small  columnar  basilica  of  the  early  5th  cent,  with 
nave  and  aisles  (23  by  lO1^  yds.) ;  but  the  narthex  (vestibule,  now 
used  as  a  church)  and  the  fine  choir- recess  have  alone  been  left 
standing  Many  Roman  sculptures,  mostly  from  a  temple,  have  been 
built  into  the  walls  of  the  aisles,  which  were  origiually  vaulted. 
The  nave,  which  once  had  a  timber  roof,  retains  relics  of  its  old 
mosaic  pavement. 

The  zaoul'a  of  Sidi  Kaddour  el-Mizouai,  one  of  the  three 
largest  Tunisian  establishments  of  the  widely  diffused  Mohamme- 
dan brotherhood  of  the  Kadria  (p.  183),  enjoys  a  high  reputation. 
The  zaoula  of  Sidi  Salah  ben-Aissa,  belonging  to  the  Rahmania, 
contains  a  fine  modern  cenotaph  of  the  saint. 

Steep  lanes  and  passages  in  steps  connect  the  old  town  with  the 
Turkish  Kasba  (now  barracks). 

Outside  the  town  is  a  third  early-Christian  church,  the  so-called 
Kasr  el-Ghula  ('castle  of  ghosts').  The  Roman  Cisterns  to  the 
N.  of  the  Kasba  are  still  used. 

From  Le  Kef  to  Souk  el-Arba,  see  p.  326;  to  Tunis,  see  R.  55. 


The  Railway  to  Kalaa-Djerda  runs  to  the  S.W.  from  Les 
Salines  (p.  360)  through  the  pass  of  Khanguet  Fras  to  (112  M. 
from  Tunis)  Les  Zouarines,  in  the  plain  of  the  Bled  Zouarine. 

119  M.  Ebba-Ksour  is  the  station  for  the  ruins  of  Ebba,  the 
Obba  of  the  Carthaginians  and  Romans,  destroyed  by  the  Hilalides 
(p.  323)  in  1048,  and  for  the  village  of  Ksour  (2164  ft.),  on  the 
N.  edge  of  the  rocky  upland  plain  of  Ouartanc,  the  site  of  a  Libyan- 
Phoenician  town. 


362     Route  56.  KALAA-DJ  ERDA. 

We  cross  the  Oued  Medeina  below  the  ruins  of  Medtfina,  the 
Roman  Althiburus  (with  theatre,  capitol,  triumphal  arch,  etc.). 
125  M.  Ain-Mesria;  12872  M.  Fedj  el-Tameur,  junction  for 
(19y2  M.)  the  mines  of  Slata. 

The  train  next  passes  over  the  saddle  between  the  lofty  plateau 
of  Khremensa,  rich  in  phosphates,  on  the  right,  and  Jebel  Ayata 
(3480  ft.),  on  the  left,  and  then  descends  past  Jebel  Zrissa,  on  the 
right,  with  its  iron-mines,  into  the  valley  of  the  Oued  Sarrath,  the 
chief  feeder  of  the  Oued  Mellegue  (p.  327). 

13872  M.  Oued-Sarrath  (ca.  1900  ft.),  on  the  right  bank. 

Branch  Line  from  Oued-Sarrath  (18>/2  M.,  in  VU-l3^  hr.)  down  the  left 
bank  of  the  Sarrath  via  Majouba  to  Kulaat  es-Senam  (Hot.  de  Jugur- 
tha),  the  station  for  the  great  phosphate  deposits  of  the  Comp.  des  Phos- 
phates du  Dyr  on  the  Jebel  Kaladt  es-Senam  (4111  ft.).  The  top  of  the 
huge  mountain,  conspicuous  far  and  wide,  consists  of  a  tableland,  occupied 
by  a  deserted  Berber  village  and  an  old  Byzantine  fort,  accessible  only  by 
steep  paths  with  steps. 

The  train  skirts  the  Sarrath  and  then  ascends  the  side-valley 
of  Oued  Haidra.   On  the  left,  Jebel  Bou  el-Haneche  (4040  ft.). 

146  M.  Kalaa-Djerda  (about  2130  ft.;  hotel),  near  the  rich 
phosphate  mines  of  an  Italian  company  on  the  hills  of  that  name 
(2886  ft.). 

A  most  interesting  excursion  may  be  taken  to  (11  M.)  Haidra  (about 
2790  ft.),  the  Tunisian  frontier  custom-house,  on  the  site  of  Ammaedara 
(Colonia  Augusta  Emerita  Ammaedara) ,  founded  perhaps  by  Vespasian 
as  a  Roman  colony  of  veterans,  and  in  the  later  Roman  age  no  less  im- 
portant than  Tebessa.  Originally  a  frontier-fortress  it  was,  like  Tinigad 
(p.  289),  a  model  Roman  camp.  The  Carthage  and  Tebessa  road  formed 
trie  Decumanus  Maximus  and  tho  Kasserine  and  Gafsa  road  the  Cardo 
Maximus.  On  the  left  bank  the  ruins  have  partly  fallen  into  the  bed 
of  the  Oued  Haidra.  The  much  smaller  suburb  lay  on  the  right  bank. 
The  castellated  *  Byzantine  Fortress  of  the  time  of  Justinian  (p.  541),  the 
largest  in  N.  Africa,  was  built  to  guard  the  passage  of  the  stream. 
Within  the  vast  enclosure,  219  by  120  yds.,  are  remains  of  a  Byzantine 
basilica,  cisterns,  etc. — The  imposing  *Triumphal  Arch  of  the  time  of 
Septimius  Severus  (p.  407)  was  used  by  the  Byzantines  as  a  fort  also. 
Near  it  are  an  early-Christian  Basilica,  with  aisles  and  extensive  Byzan- 
tine additions  (curious,  unexplained  holes  in  the  masonry;  comp.  p.  317), 
and  a  second  Basilica  with  double  aisles  and  numerous  tombstones.  A 
column,  33  ft.  high,  is  the  sole  relic  of  a  Roman  Temple,  the  only  one  of 
which  there  is  a  trace.  High  above  the  stream,  almost  intact,  rises  a  Roman 
*Mausoleum,  with  an  open  loggia  on  the  upper  story.  —  From  Haidra  over 
(IOV2  M.)  Jebel  Kouif  to  (26  M.)  Tebessa,  see  p.  318. 

A  Road  leads  from  Kalaa-Djerda  to  Kasserine  (43  M. ;  diligence  to 
Thala  daily,  thence  to  Kasserine  on  Tues.  and  Frid.  only)  over  the  central 
Sahara  Atlas  (p.  320)  and  through  the  valley  of  the  Oued  Hathob  (p.  320), 
by  which  of  old  the  Arabs  invaded  Algeria.  (From  Kasserine  to  Feriana, 
see  p.  371.)  The  only  village  on  the  route,  as  in  the  time  of  Marius  (p.  384) 
it  was  the  only  settlement  between  Lares  (p.  360)  and  Gafsa,  is  (83/4  M.) 
Thala  (3337  ft.;  Hot.  Recli,  Hot.  Gros,  both  rustic;  pop.  800,  incl.  80  Euro- 
peans), which  holds  market  (Sat.-Mon.)  for  the  Arab-like  Berber  tribes  of 
the  Fraichich  (the  Frexes  of  Ptolemy)  and  Madjeur.  It  lies  on  the  N.E. 
slope  of  Jebel  Char  (4321  ft.),  40'/a  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Tebessa  (p.  315). 
The  Roman  antiquities  of  the  town,  which  was  most  prosperous  under 
Diocletian,  are  uninteresting.  Near  the  Esplanade,  in  the  centre  of  the 
Roman  town,  are  traces  of  a  temple  of  Caelestis  (p.  856). 


363 


57.  From  Tunis  to  Susa. 


98  M.  Railway,  two  trains  daily  in  4<l2-5  hrs.  (faros  16  fr.  80, 12  fr.  75  c. 
8  fr.);  also  local  trains  between  Tunis  and  Hammam-Lif  (return-fares  3,  2, 
1  fr.,  or,  in  summer,  2  fr.  40,  1  fr.  60  c,  80  c.);  also  a  train  to  Bir  Bou- 
Rekba  (Nabeul).  Views  on  the  left.  —  Railway  Restaurants  at  Bir  Bou- 
Rekba,  Enfidaville,  and  Kalaa-Srira. —  Steamers  to  Susa,  see  R.  64. 

From  Tunis  to  (S1/-,  M.)  Djebel-Djelloud,  see  p.  358.  Our  train 
turns  to  the  E.  to  (33/4  M.)  Megrine,  a  station  amidst  vineyards. 
Pretty -views  of  Tunis,  behind  us,  to  the  left. 

67i  M.  Maxula-Rades,  in  a  marshy  site,  at  the  S.  end  of  the 
tongue  of  land  between  Lake  Bahira  (p.  129)  and  the  open  sea. 
On  a  height,  1/i  hr.  to  the  S.  of  the  station,  lies  the  picturesque 
little  town  of  Hades,  which,  like  Sidi  Bou-Said  (p.  351),  is  a 
favourite  summer  residence  of  the  wealthy  Moslems  of  Tuuis.  Near 
the  Fort  (184  ft.)  behind  the  town  we  have  a  splendid  view  of 
Lake  Bahira,  the  hills  of  Carthage,  the  bay  of  Tunis,  and  the  fer- 
tile Mornag  (p.  358). 

To  the  N.  of  the  station  lies  Maxula,  a  colony  of  the  villas  of 
European  families  in  Tunis,  on  the  site  of  the  Roman  town  of  that 
name.  A  road  leads  thence  to  (l1^  M. ;  tramway  in  summer)  the 
bathing-beach  on  the  bay  of  Tunis. 

A  Road,  enlivened  by  many  vehicles,  especially  on  Sundays  and 
holidays,  leads  from  Maxula  to  (V/2  M.)  Goletta  (p.  343).  It  runs  to  the 
N.  through  the  isthmus,  past  swamps  and  fig-gardens,  and,  on  the  left, 
past  large  salt-ponds,  where  in  summer  salt  is  obtained  by  evaporation, 
and  finally  it  skirts  the  sea.  About  an  hour's  walk  brings  us  to  the  steam- 
ferry  (bac  a  vapeur;  free)  across  the  new  Bahira  Canal  (p.  129),  opposite 
the  station  of  the  electric  tramway  to  Carthage  (p.  343). 

We  cross  the  Oued  Miliane  (p.  35S),  below  a  five-arched  bridge 
(1749;  not  visible  from  the  train)  and  close  to  the  shore,  which  is 
here  marshy  at  places. 

lO1^  M.  Harnmarn-Lif  (Hot.  de  Paris,  near  the  sea,  plain ; 
Terminus  Hot.,  near  the  station,  humble;  pop.  1000,  incl.  650  Ital- 
ians), formerly  oftener  called  Hammam  el-Enf,  the  ancient  Naro, 
is  prettily  situated  at  the  N.  base  of  Jebel  Bou-Kornin  (see  below). 
On  the  wooded  slope,  to  the  right  of  the  railway,  where  the  hot 
salt-springs  rise  (117-1'20°  Fahr.),  is  the  old  Ddr  el-Bey,  a  palace 
now  converted  into  barracks,  on  the  foundations  of  the  Roman  baths 
Aquae  Persianae,  so  called  from  the  founder,  C.  Julius  Perseus. 
Near  it  is  the  'Fondouk',  the  modern  unpretending  bath-house.  Of 
the  late-Roman  Synagogue  (3rd  cent.),  discovered  here  in  18S3, 
scarcely  a  trace  is  left. 

To  the  N.E.  of  the  station  is  O/4  M.)  the  Bathing  Beach,  with 
a  summer  casino.  Fine  view  of  Goletta,  the  Carthage  hills,  and 
the  peninsula  of  Cape  Bon. 

The  *Jebel  Bou-Kornin,  or  Boti-Koiuviine,  so  named  from  its  two 
'horns',  the  W.  (1890  ft.)  and  the  E.  (1626  ft.),  separated  by  a  deep  hollow, 
commands  a  splendid  panorama  of  N.  Tunisia.    The  W.  peak,  once  crown- 


364     Route  6?.  K0RB0U8.  From  Turns 

ed  with  a  temple  of  Saturnus  Balcaranenis  (Saturn-Baal  of  Mt.  Karnaim), 
the  most  famous  shrine  of  Baal  in  the  land,  is  ascended  hy  a  new  bridle- 
path on  the  E.  slope  or  by  a  steep  old  path  on  the  W.  margin  of  the  N. 
spur  (925  ft.). 

A  little  farther  on  we  pass  between  the  eucalyptus  groves  and 
vineyards  of  the  estate  of  Potinville,  where  many  negroes  are  em- 
ployed, to  (15  M.)  Bordj  CMria.  To  the  left  we  sight  Jebel  Kor- 
bous (see  below). 

The  train  next  runs  to  the  N.E.  across  the  Plain  of  Soliman 
(see  below),  a  depression  between  the  main  chain  of  the  Sahara 
Atlas  (p.  320)  and  the  hills  of  the  peninsula  of  Cape  Bon,  passing 
at  first  through  a  steppe  where  browsing  camels  are  often  seen. 

18  M.  Fondouk  Djedid,  a  village  of  immigrant  settlers  on  the 
wooded  spurs  of  Jebel  Za'iana. 

From  Fondouk  Djedid  to  Menzel  Bou-Zelfa,  8'/a  M.,  branch-line  ill 
3/4  hr.  (through-carr.  from  Tunis  to  Soliman  by  the  morning  train;  return- 
fares  5  fr.  80,  4  fr.  15,  2  fr.  55  c).  Also  from  Tunis  (Auto-Palace,  p.  330) 
motor-omnibus  Sun.  and  Thurs.  at  8.30  a.  m.,  in  l'/3  hr.  (fare  8,  return 
10  fr.).  The  only  intermediate  station  is  Soliman  (145  ft.;  Hot.  Zammit, 
humble;  pop.  2200,  incl.  150  Europeans;  Frid.  market),  a  picturesque  little 
town  founded  by  Andalusian  Moors  in  1616,  with  a  lofty  minaret.  Thence 
through  venerable  olive-woods  to  Menzel  Bou-Zelfa  (or  Zalfa;  197  ft.), 
famed  for  its  luxuriant  orchards,  with  a  zaou'ia  of  the  Kadria  brother- 
hood and  an  important  cattle-market  (Thurs.). 

A  Road  from  Soliman,  where  a  hotel-omnibus  from  Korbous  meets 
the  morning  train  (fare  to  Korbous  2,  there  and  back  3,  luggage  1  fr. ; 
other  vehicles  also),  leads  at  first  to  the  N.E.  through  pleasant  olive- 
groves,  and  then,  beyond  the  Oued  Bezirk,  runs  behind  the  low  coast- 
dunes  to  Mratssa,  the  ruins  of  the  little  Roman  town  of  Carpis.  At 
(7>/2  M.)  the  kubba  of  Sid i  Rais,  near  which  are  seen  fragments  of  walls 
of  the  harbour  of  Carpis,  begins  the  new  coast-road  to  Korbous.  This  skirts 
the  rocky  slopes  of  Jebel  Korbous  (1375  ft.),  being  strongly  buttressed 
at  places,  and  affords  a  delightful  view,  especially  in  the  morning,  of 
Tunis,  the  Carthage  hills,  and  the  "W.  shore  of  the  bay  as  far  as  Cape 
Farina  (p.  129).  11  M.  Korbous  (Hot.  des  Thermes,  R.  2-6,  B.  1,  dej.  S>/2, 
D.  4,  pens,  from  10  fr.),  a  small  watering-place,  and  of  late  a  winter 
resort  also,  has  hot  springs  (alkaline  and  saline,  111-151°  Fahr.),  an  old 
palace  of  the  beys  situated  on  the  shore  and  now  used  as  a  bath-house, 
and  scanty  ruins  of  the  Roman  baths  (Aquae  Carpitanae). 

22  M.  Khanguet,  for  Khanguet  el-Hadjadj  (p.  358);  23 V2  M. 
Gh'ombalia  (154  ft.),  a  village  of  colonists;  30  M.  Bou-Arkoub 
(236  ft.).  We  then  cross  the  watershed  between  the  bay  of  Tunis 
and  the  Gulf  of  Hammamet. 

37^2  M.  Bir  Bou-Hekba  (Rail.  Restaurant),  at  the  foot  of 
bare  hills,  10  min.  to  the  W.  of  Kasr  ez-Zit,  the  ruins  of  Siagu 
(early-Christian  basilica,  Byzantine  fort,  etc.). 

From  Bir  Bou-Rekba  to  Nabeul,  11  M.,  branch-line  in  about  SU  hr. 
(1  fr.  90,  1  fr.  45  c,  1  fr.).  The  only  intermediate  station  is  (2>/2M.)  Ham- 
mamet (82  ft.;  Hot.  de  la  Plage,  on  the  shore,  R.  2  fr.,  B.  60  c,  dij.  or 
D.  2,  pens.  5-6  fr.,  quite  good;  pop.  6000,  incl.  200  Europeans;  "Wed.  mar- 
ket), most  picturesquely  situated  on  a  small  headland,  1li  hr.  to  the  S.  of 
the  station.  The  ramparts  of  the  ruinous  Easba  (now  partly  a  Poste 
Optique)  afford  a  charming  view  of  the  bay  as  far  as  Hergla  (p.  365). 
Pretty  bathing-beach.  The  coast  between  Hammamet  and  Nabeul  has 
unfortunately  been  entirely  denuded  of  wood,  but  the  climate  in  winter 


to  Sma.  NABEUL.  «*•  Bowte.     365 

is  the  mildest  and  healthiest  in  Tunisia  next  to  that  of  Djerba  (p.  393). 
The  lemons,  mandarins,  oranges,  and  other  fruits  are  considered  the 
best  in  the  land.  The  finest  *Fruit  Gardens,  some  of  them  shaded  by 
groups  of  old  cypresses,  lie  to  the  W.,  in  the  direction  of  the  ruins  of 
Piipput,  now  called  Souk  el-Abiod,  and  also  on  the  Nabeul  road.  — 
Beyond  Hammamet  the  train  crosses  numerous  torrents. 

11  M.  Nabeul  (43  ft.;  Hot.  de  France,  R.,  de\j.,  D.  2>/9  fr.  each,  omn. 
'/afr.,  good;  Hot.  des  Voyageurs;  carr.  to  Hammamet  5-6  fr. ;  pop.  11,900, 
incl.  2000  Jews  and  400  Europeans;  Frid.  market),  with  its  small  Souks 
(p.  335)  and  pretty  gardens,  is  the  chief  town  on  this  part  of  the  coast. 
Its  famed  old  potter}'  is  again  thriving.  Fayence  with  geometrical  patterns, 
after  Punic  and  late-Roman  models,  and  porous,  unglazed  water-jugs  (gar- 
gotilettes)  are  the  chief  products.  The  small  Poterie  Artigtique  (Tissier's), 
behind  the  church,  is  worth  seeing.  Pleasant  walks  are  to  the  N.E. 
to  (20  min.)  Dar-Chabane,  a  purely  Moslem  village;  to  the  S.  to  the 
small  anchorage  near  the  kubba  Sidi  Slimdn,  or  to  the  ruins  of  Nea- 
■poliK,  now  largely  submerged,  a  little  seaport  destroyed  at  the  same  time 
as  Carthage  (146  B.C.),  to  which  Nabeul  owes  its  name  and  much  of  its 
building -material;  to  the  E.  to  (33/4  M.)  El-Mamotira,  near  the  caverns 
in  the  Has  Mamoura,  the  N.E.  boundary  of  the  bay  of  Hammamet;  to 
the  N.  to  the  ('/«  hr.)  Bds  Tefal,  where  the  potters  dig  their  clay. 

The  Susa  Train  turns  to  the  S.E.,  quitting  the  highroad,  on 
which,  beyond  Pupput  (see  above),  is  the  so-called  Kasr  Menara, 
a  large  Roman  circular  building  resembling  the  tomb  of  Csecilia 
Metella,  the  only  monument  of  the  kind  in  Barbary.  "We  approach 
the  spurs  of  the  Sahara  Atlas.  All  around  is  scanty  underwood, 
with  occasional  tents  of  nomads  and  many  pasturing  cattle.  To 
the  left  we  have  a  glimpse  of  the  N.  coast  of  the  bay  as  far  as 
Nabeul  (see  above).    To  the  W.  towers  Jebel  Zadhouan  (p.  359). 

Beyond  the  Oued  er-Rebia,  at  (49  M.)  Bou-Ficha,  begins  the 
Enfida,  an  estate  of  300,000  acres  owned  by  the  Soci6te  Franco- 
Africaine,  the  ancient  granary  of  central  Tunisia,  but  a  wilderness 
for  centuries  after  the  irruption  of  the  Beni  Hilal  (p.  323).  Among 
the  farm-labourers  are  many  Sicilians.  There  are  still,  however, 
great  desolate  tracts,  dotted  with  Roman  ruins  and  old  irrigation- 
works,  inhabited  only  by  the  nomadic  Oulad  Sa'id,  descendants 
of  the  Hilalides. 

54^2  M.  Ain-Hallouf,  near  the  ruins  of  Aphrodisium,  now 
Sidi  IOialifa  and  Henchir  Fradiz,  close  to  the  salt-marshes  of 
the  Sebkha  Djiriba,  which  are  19  M.  long. 

62  M.  Enfidaville  (131  ft.;  Rail.  Restaurant;  Hot.  d'Enfida- 
ville,  dej.  2>/2  fr.,  well  spoken  of;  pop.  6700,  incl.  500  Europeans), 
a  rising  town  of  colonists,  the  largest  in  the  Enfida,  is  a  pretty 
oasis  of  trees  and  vegetable-gardens.  Alfa  (p.  171)  is  largely  ex- 
ported.   Near  the  station  is  a  village  of  nomad-tents. 

Above  the  Zaghouan  road  (p.  359),  about  4  M.  to  the  W.  of  Enfida- 
ville, on  Jebel  Takroun  (657  ft.),  is  perched  the  interesting  Berber 
villago  of  Takrouna  (pop.  about  500),  not  easily  accessible.  —  In  the 
valley  of  the  Oued  Boitl,  7'/a  M.  to  the  W.  of  Enfidaville,  on  Jebel  Oarci, 
rises  the  chalybeate  spring  of  A'in-Garci,  on  the  site  of  the  Roman 
Aygersel.  —  Some  9'/»  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Enfidaville  lies  E'rgla  (reached 
also  by  a  branch  of  the  road  from  Sidi  Bou-Ali;  see  p.  366  ,  the  ancient 
Horrea  Caelia,  the  corn-mart  and  export-harbour  of  the  Enfida. 


366     Route  57.  SUSA.  Practical  Notes 

The  steppe-like  character  of  the  landscape  again  asserts  itself. 
Wild  asparagus  abounds.  To  the  right  in  the  distance  are  the  bare 
hills  of  central  Tunisia  behind  Kairwan  (p.  372).  71  M.  Menzel 
Dar  el-Bouar,  not  far  from  the  Sebkha  Halk  el-Menzel.  On  the 
road,  to  the  N.E.  of  the  station,  is  an  ancient  Berber  cemetery, 
with  numerous  dolmens  (p.  324),  mostly  ruined  of  late. 

76'/2  M.  Sidi  Bou-Ali,  a  smiling  oasis,  with  olive  and  fruit- 
trees  and  a  few  date-palms.  We  again  traverse  a  stony  hill-region, 
dotted  with  stunted  olive-trees,  and  then  descend  into  the  thickly 
peopled  Sahel  (see  below),  with  its  many  thriving  little  towns. 

85  M.  Kalad-Kebira  (161  ft.;  pop.  6500).  To  the  left,  farther 
on,  we  see  the  little  town  of  AJcouda,  on  a  low  hill;  then  the 
distant  Hammam-Sousse  in  the  valley  of  the  Oued  Laya. 

88  M.  Kalad-Srira  (181  ft.;  Rail.  Restaurant),  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Oued  Laya,  where  visitors  for  Kairwan  (R.  58)  change 
carriages.  Our  train  descends  the  Oued  Kharoub  Valley  to  the  E. 
to  the  coast,  with  a  view  of  the  sea  on  the  left. 

93  M.  Susa.  —  The  Station  (PI.  B,  C,  1)  for  Tunis,  Kairwan  (R. 
58),  Mehdia  (p.  369),  and  for  tho  future  lino  to  Sfax  (R.  59),  is  in  Bonl. 
Rene  Millet,  3-5  min.  from  the  hotels,  or  6  min.  from  the  quay. 

Arrival  by  Sea  (comp.  R.  64).  The  steamers  of  the  Comp.  G^n. 
Transatlantique  (office,  Banque  do  Tunisie,  see  below),  the  Societh.  Nazio- 
nale  (agent,  Rue  Villedon),  and  the  Comp.  do  Navigation  Mixte  (Rue 
Jules-Perry  4)  all  moor  at  the  N.  quay  (PI.  D,  2).  Harbour-tax  4  or  3  fr. 
—  Cabs,  see  below. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  324).  Grand-Hotel  (PI.  a;  D,  2),  Cours  de  la  Marine, 
R.  4-7,  B.  l'/2,  'Hi-  3</2>  D.  4,  pens.  11-15  fr. ;  Hotel  de  France  (PI.  b: 
C,  1),  Avenue  Krantz,  R.  3-6,  B.  1,  dej.  3,  D.  3-3i/2,  pens.  10-12  fr.,  well 
spoken  of;  Hotel  du  Sahel  (PI.  c;  D,  1),   Ruo  Jules-Ferry,    unpretending. 

Cafes.  Brasserie,  at  tho  Grand-Hotel;  Glacier,  Place  Pichon;  Belle- 
vue,  Place  do  la  Marine.  —  Casino  Municipal  (PI.  8;  C,  1),  with  a  hall 
for  balls  and  theatrical  performances,  etc. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  C,  2),  Place  Pichon.  —  Banks  (comp. 
p.  174).  Comp.  Algirienne,  Rond-Point  de  la  Douane;  Banque  de  Tunisie, 
Rue  du  Marche;  Credit  Fonder  et  Agricole  d'Algerie,  Place  Colonel 
Vincent.  —  Booksellers.  Petit,  Place  Pichon;  Berra  (Imprimerie  Rapide), 
Rue  Jules-Ferry. 

British  Vice-Consitl,  W.  Galea,  Rue  G6n6ral-Logevot  (cor.  of  Rue 
de  l'Eglise).  —  Lloyd's  Agent,  D.  Cattan. 

Cabs  (stand,  Place  Pichon).  Drive  3/4  (outside  town  1)  fr. ;  hour  l3/4 
(or  2),  day  15-20  fr. ;  after  7  (in  summer  9)  p.  m.  one-half  more.  —  Motor 
Cars  at  Auvin's,  Ave.  Krantz. 

Half-Day.  Visit  to  the  Musetim  (p.  367),  the  Souks  (p.  368),  and 
the  Kasba  (p.  369). 

Susa,  French  Sousse,  Arabic  Silssa,  (pop.  25,000,  incl.  2800 
Italians,  1500  French,  and  900  Maltese),  which  has  been  since  an- 
cient times  the  chief  seaport  in  the  Gulf  of  Hammamet  (p.  364), 
is  now  the  most  important  in  Tunisia  after  Tunis  and  Sfax.  It  ia 
also  the  capital  of  the  Sahel  (p.  320).  This  coast-region,  20-25  M. 
in  breadth,  famed  in  the  Roman  age  for  its  olive-oil,  yields  corn 
also,  like  the  inland  plain  of  Kairwan,  although  its  rainfall  is  slight. 


Sfix'    M<*dia' 


SfmP 
H/ar  el-Bey  B3    (i 

lEglLse  C2 

'e  rate  BC2 

iKaouat  el-Eoubba    B3 
5  2wr  er-Ribat  C  2 

1  Tribunal  Bl 

iCcisinoifimiapul        C 1 

"Wagner t  Debes  Leipsjg 


Museum  SUSA.  57.  Route.     367 

According  to  the  latest  statistics  the  Sahel  has  6  million  olive-trees, 
212,000  acres  of  barley,  and  about  4000  date-palms,  which  here, 
however,  mostly  yield  date-wine  ('lagmi')  only.  As  yet  the  manufac- 
turing industries  are  practically  limited  to  the  oil-mills  and  soap- 
works  in  the  suburbs  close  to  the  sea;  there  are  also  several  salt- 
works on  the  coast  between  Susa  and  Melulia. 

Susa,  the  Roman  Hadrumetum,  is  one  of  the  oldest  Phoenician  colon- 
ies on  the  coast  of  Tunisia.  It  appears  for  the  first  time  in  history  at 
the  end  of  the  second  Punic  war,  when  it  was  Hannibal's  base  of  opera- 
tions, and,  after  the  battle  of  Zama  (B.  C.  202),  his  place  of  refuge.  It 
escaped  the  fate  of  Carthage  in  146  B.  C,  and  it  was  again  spared  a  century 
later,  although  it  had  sided  with  Pompey  in  the  civil  war.  Under  the 
later  Roman  empire  Hadrumetum  was  remarkably  prosperous,  being  the 
great  outlet  for  the  produce  of  the  numerous  and  thickly  peopled  inland 
colonies  as  far  as  Tebessa.  The  fertility  of  its  environs  is  indicated  by 
the  name  given  to  it  when  re-colonized  under  Trajan  (Colonia  Concordia 
Ulpia  Trajana  Frugifera  Hadrumentina).  At  that  period  the  whole  coast 
from  Hadrumetum  to  El-Alia  and  Chebba  (p.  370)  was  bordered  with 
sumptuous  country-houses.  After  its  conquest  by  the  Arabs  (in  665,  and 
again  in  689)  Susa,  whose  present  name  is  said  to  date  from  the  8th  cent., 
was  oiitstripped  by  Kairwan  and  Mehdia.  It  afterwards  suffered  severely 
from  the  irruption  of  the  Hilalides  (p.  323)  and  its  conquest  by  the  Nor- 
mans (1135),  and  in  more  modern  times  from  its  bombardment  by  the 
Spaniards   (1537   and  1550),   the  French  (1769),   and   the  Venetians  (1783). 

The  Harbour,  35  acres  in  area,  constructed  in  1886-9,  is 
tolerably  sheltered  by  two  moles  and  by  the  Grande  JeMe  (737  yds.), 
the  end  of  which  is  a  splendid  point  of  view.  The  Digue  Sud  (PL 
D,  4,  5),  where  new  harbour-works  are  in  progress,  is  occupied  by 
storehouses  for  the  phosphates  from  A'in-Moulares  (p.  372). 

Between  the  N.  mole  and  the  dunes  of  Bou-Jaffar,  near  the 
Punic-Roman  harbour  (Kothon),  of  which  scarcely  a  trace  is  left, 
lies  the  new  town,  dating  from  1881.  The  busy  parts  of  it  are  the 
Rond-Point  de  la  Douane  (PI.  D,  2),  near  the  steamboat-quay,  and 
the  Place  Pichon  (PI.  C,  D,  2),  from  which  the  Boul.  Rene  Millet 
leads  to  the  station. 

Between  the  two  small  public  gardens  here  is  the  *Museum 
(PLC,  2),  a  valuable  collection  of  Puuic,  Roman,  and  early-Christian 
antiquities,  mostly  excavated  of  late  in  the  Sahel.  Adm.  daily,  ex- 
cept Mon.,  8-11  and  2-4  (from  1st  July  to  15th  Oct,  7-11  only). 
No  catalogue.    Curator,  M.  E.  Gouvet,  the  town  architect. 

The  chief  treasures  of  the  museum  are  the  numerous  mosaics  from 
Roman  villas.  In  the  centre  of  the  hall  is  a  large  pavement  from  El- 
Alia,  already  freely  restored  in  ancient  times,  representing  an  inundation 
of  the  Nile,  with  two-storied  houses,  a  hippopotamus,  a  crocodile,  etc.; 
by  the  entrance-wall,  Neptune  iu  a  chariot  with  sea-horses,  ducks,  and 
fish;  by  the  back-wall,  procession  of  Bacchus,  iishing  scenes,  a  gazelle 
among  edible  animals  and  fruits  (from  a  dining-room),  the  rape  of  Gany- 
mede, a  Nile  scene,  a  basket  with  fish  and  lobsters;  by  the  end-wall  to 
the  left,  a  peacock.  By  the  right  end-wall,  an  early-Christian  mosaic, 
with  the  signature  of  the  artist  (Theodulos). 

By  the  back-wall  are  relics  of  wall-paintings  and  the  marble  stat- 
uette of  a  negro  boy.  By  the  entrance-wall,  fragments  of  Roman  reliefs 
in  stucco:  head  of  a  bearded  man,  from  El-Djem  (2nd  cent.  A.  D.);  bust. 

B.ieokkkr's  Mediterranean  24 


368     Route  57.  SUSA. 

of  Athena  and  female  head  in  profile,  from  Susa  (2nd  cent.).  By  the 
left  end-wall,  a  large  relief,  from  Susa,  of  the  triumphal  procession  of 
a  Roman  emperor,  with  a  fettered  warrior  behind  the  chariot. 

The  central  presses  contain  (on  the  left)  *Terracotta  Figures  from 
Susa  (mother  and  child,  Venus,  female  harpist,  rider  on  a  camel,  etc.) 
and  fine  vessels  in  clay;  (on  the  right)  ancient  coins;  a  fine  bust  in 
bronze  and  leaden  rolls  inscribed  with  curses  (comp.  p.  341),  from  Susa; 
bronze  utensils,  trinkets,  implements  in  bone;  Punic,  Roman,  and  early- 
Christian  lamps;  mosaic  of  Virgil  writing  the  iEneid. 

The  old  town,  an  irregular  quadrilateral  almost  unspoiled  by 
modern  improvements,  contains  no  buildings  of  outstanding  im- 
portance, but  its  Oriental  streets  are  strikingly  picturesque.  The 
many- towered  *Town  Wall,  with  its  gallery  of  defence  and  its 
crowning  battlements,  was  erected  by  the  Aglabides  (p.  323)  in  827. 

From  the  Place  Pichon  we  first  visit  the  Place  Bab  el-Bahar 
(PL  C,  2),  named  after  the  old  'sea-gate',  almost  always  enlivened 
by  a  dense  and  busy  throng.  The  main  streets  of  this  quarter 
are  the  Rue  de  France  and  Rue  General-Logerot,  between  which 
rises  the  Chief  Mosque  (PI.  C,  2),  built  in  the  Aglabide  period  ou 
a  T-shaped  plan  (p.  376),  with  forecourts  like  the  Gamia  Ibn  Tulun 
at  Cairo  (p.  451). 

In  the  secluded  streets  to  theN.W.  of  the  chief  mosque,  which 
are  best  reached  from  the  Hotel  de  Ville  (PI.  3,  B  C,  2;  new  build- 
ing in  course  of  construction  in  the  Ave.  Mougeot,  in  front  of  the 
harbour)  by  the  Rue  General-Riu  and  Rue  du  Kasr,  rises  the  so- 
called  Kasr  er-Ribat  (PI.  5,  C  2;  'castle-convent'),  originally 
a  Byzantine  fortress,  but  used  since  the  Aglabide  period  as  a  forti- 
fied monastery  (Kasr  al-Morabitin,  castle  of  the  marabouts)  for 
defenders  of  the  faith  against  the  infidels.  It  is  now  a  humble 
medersa  (p.  228).  The  building,  modernized  in  the  Turkish  period, 
was  originally  square,  with  four  round  corner-towers  and  four  at 
the  sides.  The  domed  vestibule  contains  fragments  of  the  Byzan- 
tine edifice.  In  the  interior  (no  admittance)  there  is  a  small  mosque. 

The  Rue  General-Sabatier  on  the  W.  side  of  the  chief  mosque, 
and  the  Rue  de  Paris,  its  continuation  to  the  S.,  lead  to  the  Rue 
el-Mar  (PI.  B,  3,  4).  Here,  at  the  corner  of  the  Rue  de  la  Kasba 
(p.  369),  rises  a  fine  Minaret.  At  the  end  of  the  street  is  an 
interesting  old  Dwelling  House,  thoroughly  restored  in  1906,  with 
horseshoe  ana  multifoil  arches. 

In  the  Rue  de  la  Soffra  (PI.  B,  3),  above  the  Rue  el-Mar,  are 
the  Roman  Cisterns,  which  have  been  repeatedly  restored  since 
the  middle  ages  (keys  at  the  town  architect's;  see  p.  367). 

To  the  W.  of  the  Rue  de  Paris  are  the  picturesque  Souks 
(p.  335).  Immediately  to  the  right,  adjoining  the  Souk  el-Rba 
(PI.  B,  3),  the  vaulted  lane  in  the  middle,  and  at  the  entrance  to 
the  Rue  Bin  el-Kaoui,  is  the  Kahwdt  el-Kubba  (PI.  4,  B  3;  'domed 
cafe'),  a  small  early-Moorish  building  with  an  interesting  dome, 
four  wall-niches,  and  windows  partly  built  up. 


MEHDIA.  67.  Route.     369 

The  Souk  el-CaYd,  continuing  the  Souk  el-Rb&,  ascends  to  the 
Bdb  el-Gharbi  (PL  A,  3),  the  old  Moorish  W.  gate.  — In  the  Rue 
Dar  el-Bey,  between  the  Souk  el-Cai'd  and  Rue  de  la  Kasba,  is  the 
Ddr  el-Bey  (PI.  1 ;  B,  3),  an  old  palace  of  the  beys  of  Tunis,  now 
the  Controle  Civil  and  office  of  the  cald  (driba). 

The  Rue  de  la  Kasba,  or  from  Bab  el-Gharbi  the  boulevard 
outside  the  town,  leads  to  the  Kasba  (PI.  A,  B,  4;  131  ft.  above 
the  sea),  the  Moorish-Turkish  citadel,  built  partly  on  the  foundations 
uf  a  Roman  temple,  now  the  barracks  of  the  tirailleurs  (adm.  on 
presenting  visiting-card;  a  sergeant  acts  as  guide).  The  'Salle 
d'Honneur'  contains  neo-Punic  and  Roman  antiquities  from  the  Camp 
Militaire  (see  below),  including  valuable  mosaics  (victorious  race- 
horses, etc.)  and  early -Christian  objects  from  the  catacombs 
(see  below).  From  the  N.  terrace  of  the  Kasba,  or  from  the  tower 
(now  lighthouse;  not  always  open),  there  is  a  splendid  *View  of 
the  town  and  harbour,  of  the  Sahel,  the  whole  bay  of  Hammamct, 
and  of  the  inland  Tunisian  hill-country  as  far  as  Jebel  Zaghouan. 

From  the  Bab  el-Gharbi  a  road  leads  to  the  W.  to  Kalaa-Srira  (p.  366) 
through  the  Camp  Militaire  (PI.  A,  3,  4),  whose  huts  stand  partly  on  the 
ancient  Punic  burial-grounds.  About  3/4  M.  from  the  gate  are  remains  of  a 
Hainan  Burial  Ground;  also,  on  a  road  diverging  to  the  left  a  little  before, 
extensive  early-Christian  Catacombs  (adm.  1  fr.),  3  min.  to  the  S.  of  the 
highroad. 

From  Susa  to  Mkhdia,  SQ'/a  M.,  railway  in  H'l4  hrs.  (7  fr.  5,  5  fr.  35, 
3  fr.  80  c).  The  line  runs,  a  little  apart  from  the  Sfas  road  (R.  59),  at  first 
to  the  S.W.,  through  the  beautiful  hill-country  of  the  Sahel,  to  (6  M.) 
l/TSaken  (p.  378).  11  M.  Ouardeniue,  where  the  new  line  to  Sfax  (seep.  378) 
diverges  to  the  S.  Our  line  sweeps  round  lo  the  E.  to  (16  M.)  Djemmal. 
—  22  M.  Mooiine  (181  ft.;  Cafe-Restaurant  de  la  Gare;  pop.  9000,  incl. 
700  Jews  and  70  Europeans)  is  noted  for  its  Jewish  goldsmiths'  work  in 
an  antique  style  like  that  of  Djerba  (p.  391).  On  the  road  to  Monastir 
(p.  405),  Ss/«  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Moknine,  are  the  ruins  of  the  very  ancient 
Phoenician-Roman  seaport  Leptis  Minor,  now  Lamta  or  Lew pta  (remains 
of  the  old  quays,  cisterns,  etc.),  near  which  is  the  Punic  necropolis 
Henchir  Meskhal. 

The  train  skirts  the  Sebkha  de  Moknine.  27'/2  M.  Tebonlba  (146  ft. ; 
pop.  2900),  a  small  town  amidst  pretty  orange  and  mandarin  gardens, 
on  the  S.  shore  of  the  Bay  of  Monastir  (p.  405).  Farther  to  the  S.E.  we 
come  to  (30  M.)  Bekalta  (pop.  3100),  a  little  town  with  the  ruins  of  the 
seaport  of  Thapsus,  famed  for  Cassar's  victory  (p.  322;  large  Roman  cis- 
terns, amphitheatre,  quay  of  the  Punic-Roman  Kothon,  Punic  rock-tombs). 

39</a  M.  Mehdia  or  Mahdia  (66  ft.;  Hot.  de  Franco,  Grand-Hotel, 
both  very  humble;  Brit.  cons,  agent,  G.  Violante;  pop.  10,000,  incl. 
6do  Europeans),  the  ancient  capital  of  Ifrikia  (p.  822),  rounded  in  916  as 
Mahtdia  by  the  Fatimite  Obeid  Allah  el-Mahdi,  on  the  site  of  the  Phoeni- 
cian-Roman Zella  (Africa?),  is  now  a  poor  little  seaport-town  with  hardly 
a  trace  of  its  former  renown.  Being  centrally  situated  on  the  E.  coast 
of  Tunisia,  on  the  narrow  and  once  strongly  fortified  headland  Ran  Mehdia, 
the  Cape  Africa  of  earlier  writers,  Mehdia,  after  the  destruction  of  Kairwan 
(p.  372),  developed  into  the  most  prosperous  town  and  important  harbour  of 
Tunisia,  but  suti'ered  severely  from  the  transference  of  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment to  Tunis  (p.  332).  In  war  also  it  was  often  sorely  tried.  It  was  con- 
quered by  a  Pisan  Meet  in  1087.  occupied  by  the  Normans  in  1148-60,  and 
captured  by  the  knights  of  Malta  in  15S0,  by  Kheiieddin's  (p.  221)  former 

24* 


370     Route  58.  ALN-GRRASESIA.  From  Susa 

general  Dragut  in  1540,  and  in  1550  by  the  Spaniards,  who  on  their  retreat 
after  the  naval  battle  of  Djerba  (p.  394)  blew  up  its  fortifications. 

The  chief  sights  are  the  picturesque  ruins  of  the  Town  Walls  and 
the  Grande  Mosqme  of  the  10th  cent.,  formerly  connected  with  a  college, 
with  its  many  arcades  and  a  fine  gateway-tower,  resembling  the  Bab  Leila 
Eejana  at  Kairwan  (p.  375).  To  the  S.E.  of  the  headland  are  remains 
of  the  Kothon,  the  Punic-Roman  harbour,  which  in  the  middle  ages  was 
defended  by  two  towers.  The  new  harbour,  the  centre  of  the  Sicilian 
allache  (kind  of  sardine)  fishery,  lies  to  the  S.W.  of  the  headland.  Near 
the  town  are  large  Salt  Marshes.  The  Necropolis,  2  M.  to  the  W.,  with 
several  well-preserved  Punic  and  neo-Punie  rock-tombs,  deserves  a  visit. 
About  1  M.  from  the  town  are  extensive  early -Christian  Catacombs 
(adin.  1  fr.).  —  Off  Mehdia,  in  an  ancient  sunken  ship,  beautiful  works  of 
art,  now  at  the  Bardo  Museum  (see  p.  344),  have  been  recently  discovered. 

A  road  (carr.  15  fr.)  leads  to  the  S.W.  from  Mehclia  via  (8  M.)  Ksour- 
Essaf  to  (26  M.)  El-Djem  (p.  379). 

In  the  olive-clad  hill-country  to  the  S.  of  Mehclia,  on  the  road  to  Sfax 
(]).  380),  lie  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  seaport  of  Sullectum  (now  Salalcta), 
of  Acholla  (p.  398;  now  Biar  el- Alia),  both  with  Punic  burial-grounds, 
and  of  Uzalis  (now  El-Alia).  Farther  on,  beyond  the  Eds  Kapoudia  (or 
Rds  Khadidja),  the  ancient  Caput  Vada,  where  Belisarius  (p.  322)  landed 
in  533,  lies  the  small  seaport  of  Chebba,  noted  like  El-Alia  for  its  Roman 
mosaics.    Near  it  are  the  ruins  of  Ruspae  (now  Henchir  Sbia). 

From  Susa  to  Kairwan,  see  R.  58;  to  the  ruins  of  central  Tunisia 
and  to  Metlaoui,  see  R.  58;  to  El-Djem  and  Sfctx,  sec  R.  59. 


58.  From  Susa  to  Kairwan. 

36  M.  Narrow  Gauge  Railway  in  Si/*-8'1/!  his.  (6  fr.  50,  4  fr.  95,  3  fr. 
50  c. ;  return  9  fr.  10,  6  fr.  95,  4  fr.  90  c).  Passengers  from  Tunis  (return- 
fares  30  fr.  25,  22  fr.  95,  16  fr.  25  c.)  change  at  Kalaa-Srira  (Rail.  Restaurant). 

From  Susa  to  (5  M.)  Kalad-Srira,  see  p.  366.  The  line  runs, 
nearly  in  the  same  direction  as  the  Susa  and  Tebessa  (p.  315) 
Roman  road,  to  the  S.W.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Oued  Laya 
(p.  366),  to  the  (8  M.)  R&servoir  of  the  Susa  waterworks. 

At  (10  M.)  Oued-Laya,  a  small  oasis  of  fruit-trees  and  veget- 
ables, the  olive-zone  of  the  Sahel  ends.  1772  M-  Kroussiah-Sahali. 
23  M.  Sidi  el-Hani,  not  far  from  the  ruins  of  Vicus  Augusti  (?). 

To  the  left,  farther  on,  we  obtain  a  glimpse  at  the  Sebkha  Sidi 
el-Hani,  25  by  12x/2  M.,  the  largest  salt-lake  of  central  Tunisia. 
To  the  right,  a  little  farther  on,  beyond  a  chain  of  flat  hills,  is  re- 
vealed a  striking  view  of  the  vast  Plain  of  Kairwan,  enclosed  by 
distant  mountains,  with  the  town  of  Kairtvan  in  the  background. 
The  low  ground,  through  which  the  Oued  Hathob  (p.  320),  Oued 
Merguellil,  and  many  smaller  streams  descend  from  the  Sahara 
Atlas  and  its  plateaux  to  the  Lac  de  Kelbia  (p.  320 ;  not  visible 
from  the  train),  is  often  flooded  after  the  winter  rains.  It  is  in- 
habited almost  exclusively  by  the  Arab-like  nomadic  tribes  of  the 
Djlass  or  Zlass.  The  train  runs  through  plantations  of  Indian  figs. 

30!/2  M.  Ain-Ghrasesia. 

From  Ain-Ghrasesia  to  Metlaoui,  182  M.,  railway  in  13  hrs.  (fares 
82  fr.  85,  24  fr.  95,   17  fr.  55  c;   from  Susa  38  fr.  35,   29  fr.  10,   20  fr. 


to  Kaincan.  SBEPTLA.  68.  Route.     371 

50  c.).  This  new  railway,  diverging  here  to  the  S.W.,  affords  the  easiest 
access  to  the  ruins  of  Sbe'itla,  Kasscriue,  Thelcpte,  and  Periana  in  central 
Tunisia.  It  runs  over  a  low  saddle  between  the  Sebkha  Sidi  el-Hani  (see 
p.  870)  ami  the  marshy  plain  of  the  Oued  Hathob,  and  across  the  bleak 
plain  of  Kairwan,  to  the  S.W.  borders  of  the  Sahara  Atlas,  which  it 
reaches  at  the  foot  of  Jebel  Touila,  with  its  zinc  and  lead  mines. 

47'/2  M.  Hadjeb  el-A'ioun,  the  ancient  Masclianae,  on  the  Oitecl 
Zouizoitr,  is  the  chief  market  (Tues.)  for  the  Oulad  Sendassen,  a  branch 
of  the  Djlass  tribe  (p.  370),  and,  like  the  following  stations,  possesses 
an  alfa-depot.    Branch-line  to  Sbiba,  the  ancient  Sufes,  projected. 

Farther  on  we  pass  the  foot  of  Jebel  Hadjeb  el-A'ioun  to  (58'/2  M.) 
Djilma  (1152  ft.),  the  Roman  L'ilma,  on  a  tributary  of  the  Hathob,  hero 
called  Oued  Djilma.  We  now  enter,  to  the  W.,  the  valley  of  the  Oued 
Menasseur,  at  the  foot  of  Jebel  Mrilah  (4508  ft.)  and  Jebel  Sbe'itla,  in- 
habited by  the  Madjeur  tribe  (p.  362). 

76  M.  Sbei'tla  (1762  ft. ;  hotel),  near  the  extensive  ruins  of  Sufetula, 
on  a  plateau  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Oued  Sbe'itla,  as  the  Oued  Me- 
nasseur is  named  here.  It  was  a  poor  castellum  in  the  time  of  Augustus, 
but  after  the  2nd  cent,  became  one  of  the  most  important  junctions  of 
diil'erent  routes,  and  in  the  5 -7th  cent,  attained  its  prime  under  the 
Vandals  and  the  Byzantines.  In  645  it  became  the  residence  of  Gregory, 
the  governor,  who  had  rebelled  against  Byzantium;  it  was  soon  after 
attacked  by  the  Arabs  under  Abdallah  ibn  Saad  (p.  322),  and  in  648  it 
was  entirely  destroyed.  The  chief  boast  of  Sbe'itla  is  the  *  Capitol  (comp. 
p.  288),  rising  in  the  midst  of  the  ruins.  The  temple-court,  once  used 
by  the  Byzantines  as  a  fortress  and  now  destroyed  save  a  few  fragments 
of  the  limestone  pavement,  was  entered  by  a  three-arched  propyheum, 
bearing  an  inscription  in  honour  of  Antoninus  Pius  (138-61).  The  chief 
temple  was  pseudo-peripteral,  with  composite  columns;  there  are  still 
traces  of  the  steps  up  to  it  and  of  the  portico.  The  three  cellae  are  well 
preserved,  especially  at  the  back,  and  have  a  transverse  wall,  instead 
of  a  semicircular  apse,  adjoining  the  Corinthian  smaller  temples.  We 
may  note  also  a  tine  Triumphal  Arch  of  the  time  of  Constantine,  the 
remains  of  a  Byzantine  Church  incorporated  with  a  temple,  to  the  N. 
of  the  capitol,  a  Chapel  built  into  a  smaller  temple,  to  the  E.,  and  the 
Aqueduct  across  the  Oued  Sbei'tla.  Higher  up  is  the  spring  of  the  new 
water-conduit,  103  M.  long,  which  supplies  the  town  of  Sfax. 

Passing  many  other  ruins  we  come  to  the  Plaine  du  Foussana  (about 
2650  ft.),  one  of  the  upper  districts  of  the  Oued  Hathob,  here  called  Fous- 
sana, at  the  S.  foot  of  Jebel  Semmama  (4307  ft. ;  with  the  zinc-mines  of 
A'in-Khamouda  on  its  N.  side).  Then  a  descent  to  (95  M.)  Kasserine 
(2382  ft.),  the  ancient  Cillium,  a  flourishing  town  from  the  2nd  cent.  A.D. 
under  the  name  of  Colonia  Cillitana,  now  a  poor  village  with  a  cara- 
vanserai on  the  Thala  and  Feriana  road  (see  p.  362  and  below),  not  far 
from  the  chalky  limestone  masses  of  Jebel  Chambi  (5217  ft.;  p.  320).  Wo 
may  here  visit  the  ruins  of  the  Roman  Arch  and  of  the  Tomb  of  the 
Petronii,  and  above  all  the  interesting  Mausoleum  ofT.  Flavins  Secnndus, 
of  the  time  of  Trajan.  This  is  a  kind  of  tower  in  three  stories,  in  the 
Phoenician  fashion,  terminating  in  a  pyramid;  the  110  bombastic  lines 
of  the  inscription  correspond  with  the  number  of  years  attained  by  the 
deceased.  A  little  to  the  S.,  on  the  Oued  Derb,  are  remains  of  a  Roman 
Barrage.  —  The  landscape  farther  on,  where  Roman  ruins  still  abound, 
assumes  more  and  more  the  Sahara  character. 

116  M.  Thelepte  (hotel)  is  the  station  for  the  ruins  of  the  ancient 
town  of  that  name,  now  called  Medinet  el-Khedima  ('the  old  town'), 
which  in  the  2nd-4th  cent.  A.D.  was  the  chief  place  on  the  road  between 
Tcbessa  (p.  315)  and  Gafsa  (p.  383).  Large  thermae,  ruins  of  early-Christian 
basilicas,  and  a  Byzantine  fortress  with  many  towers  are  to  be  seen  here. 
The  extensive  Roman  Quarries  are  interesting. 

II8V2  M.  Feriana  (2628  ft.;  Hot.  Hostelier;  Restaurant  Bernard;  pop. 
1200),   an  oasis  of  corn,   fruit,   and  vegetables  on  the  Oued  Feriana,   in 


372     Route  58.  KAIRWAN.  History. 

the  midst  of  a  sandy  plain,  has  a  new  and  pretty  mosque.  —  Thence  we 
cross  the  Plateau  de  Msila  (2930  ft.),  overgrown  with  alfa,  and  descend 
to  (134  M.)  Madjen  Bel-Abbes,  with  the  ruins  of  a  Roman  town,  28  M. 
to  the  N.W.  of  Gafsa.    141  M.  Sidi  Bnu-Beker. 

153'/2  M.  Henchir  Souatir  (about  1640  ft.).  A  short  branch-line 
diverges  hence  to  Ain-Mou lares  (1806  ft.),  a  caravanserai  near  the  great 
beds  of  phosphate  on  the  Algerian  frontier. 

166  M.  Tabeditt  is  connected  by  railway  with  (9'/a  M.)  Redeyef,  which 
has  rich  phosphate  deposits.  —  Beyond  Tabeditt  the  train  runs  through 
the  valley  of  the  Oued  Seldja  (p.  386),  here  inhabited  by  the  Oulad  Sidi- 
Abid  nomads,  to  (183  M.)  Metlaoui  (p.  386). 

The  Kairwan  Line  runs  to  the  W.  over  the  bleak  steppe,  often 
passing  the  tents  and  the  browsing  camels  and  cattle  of  the  Djlass 
(p.  370).    We  cross  the  Oued  Hathob,  here  called  Zeroud. 

To  the  right,  especially  in  the  afternoon,  we  have  a  delightful 
*View  of  the  white  houses  of  Kairwan,  with  its  countless  domes 
and  towering  minarets.  Nearing  the  station  we  see  extensive  fields 
of  cactus  and  large  alfa-stacks. 

36  M.  Kairwan.  —  Hotels  (comp.  p.  324).  Splendid  Hotel 
(PI.  a;  C,  5),  R.  3,  B.  1,  dej.  or  D.  3,  omn.  >/2  fr. ;  Hot.  de  France  (PI.  b; 
C,  5),  R.  21/2-4,  B.  3/4,  dej.  or  D.  3,  pens.  7'/a  f  r. ;  both  in  the  Place  Carnot, 
tolerable.  —  Cafe  de  France,  Rue  Massicault.  —  Post  &  Telegraph  Office 
(PI.  C,  D,  4),  Rue  de  la  Poste. — Physician.  Dr.  Santschi  (a  Swiss),  Grande 
Rue,  near  the  Bab  Djelladin. 

In  Half-a-Day,  if  pressed  for  time,  we  may  visit  the  Grande  Rue, 
the  Souks,  the  Sidi  Okba  Mosque,  and  the  Mosquie  d.u  Barbier.  Tickets 
for  the  mosques  are  obtained  at  the  office  of  the  Controle  Civil  (p.  373) 
or  at  the  hotels.  The  overseers  of  the  mosques  mostly  speak  Arabic  only. 
The  guides,  who  are  quite  unnecessary,  are  very  importunate. 

Travellers  in  haste  should  endeavour  to  secure  a  cab  (as  yet  only 
one),  drive  to  the  Controle  Civil,  the  Barber's  Mosque,  and  back,  to  the 
Porte  de  Tunis  (p.  377),  and  there  begin  their  inspection  of  the  town. 

Kairwan  or  Kairouan  (243  ft.;  pop.  22,000,  incl.  about 
800  Europeans),  the  oldest  capital  of  Ifrikia,  is  a  town  of  pure- 
ly Arabian  type,  the  most  curious  in  Tunisia.  The  old  town  is 
an  irregular  rectangle,  enclosed  by  a  wall  33  ft.  high  and  2  M.  in 
length  ;  the  large  W.  suburb,  also  purely  Oriental,  is  the  Faubourg 
des  Djlass,  called  after  the  nomadic  tribe  of  that  name  (p.  370) ; 
to  the  S.  is  a  new  suburb  near  the  station.  The  numerous  mosques 
and  zaoui'as  date  mostly  from  the  Turkish  period.  The  town  holds 
market  for  the  extensive  plain  of  Kairwan,  and  the  souks  are  still 
important,  though  manufactures  have  declined.  The  climate  (p.  321) 
is  extremely  hot  in  summer. 

Kairwan  was  founded  by  Sidi  Okba  ben-Nafi  (p.  322)  in  671,  and 
was  appointed  by  the  caliphs  to  be  the  seat  of  the  governors  of  Ifrikia. 
As  the  capital  of  the  great  Aglabide  empire  (p.  323)  and  the  seat  of  the 
oldest  high  school  in  N.  Africa,  it  was  hardly  less  important  than  Cor- 
dova (p.  68),  and  the  sumptuous  mosque  of  Sidi  Okba  rapidly  became 
the  favourite  goal  of  pilgrims  from  E.  Barbary.  After  the  Hilalides 
(p.  323)  had  destroyed  the  greater  part  of  the  town  in  1048  it  was  for 
centuries  almost  deserted,  notwithstanding  the  favour  shown  to  it  by 
Abd  el-Mfiinen  (p.  95),  the  Hafsides,  and  the  Merinides  (p.  95).  In  the 
early  16th  cent,  several  quarters  still  lay  in  ruins.  It  was  not  till  the 
Turkish  period  that  the  sacred  town,  'one  of  the  four  gates  of  Paradise' 


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Sonks.  KAIRWAN.  58.  Route.     373 

which  neither  Christian  nor  Jew  durst  enter,  again  became  the  religious 
centre  of  the  land.  To  spend  one's  last  days  within  its  walls,  and  to  be 
buried  in  hallowed  earth  outside  its  gates,  seemed  to  believers  the  height 
of  bliss.  Its  sacred  character,  which  however  did  not  prevent  the  beya 
of  Tunis  from  bombarding  and  partly  destroying  the  rebellious  town,  was 
finally  lost  when  the  mosques  were  desecrated  by  the  entry  of  the  French 
troops  in  1881. 

In  the  centre  of  the  S.  suburb,  almost  exclusively  inhabited  by 
Europeans,  is  the  Place  Carnot  (PI.  C,  5),  with  its  small  Jardin 
Public.  On  its  W.  side  the  Rue  du  ContrSle,  with  the  building  of 
the  ContrOle  Civil  (PI.  C,  5 ;  see  p.  372),  leads  to  the  N.  to  the  Place 
Merabet  (PI.  C,  4)  and  the  S.  gate  of  the  town-walls,  which  were 
largely  rebuilt  after  the  bombardment  of  1740. 

On  emerging  from  the  Rue  dn  Controle  we  see  immediately  to 
the  left  the  Zaouia  Sidi  ben-Aissa  (PI.  C,  5),  where  the  hideous 
castigations  of  the  Al'ssaoua  sect,  originally  Moroccan,  are  held  on 
Friday  afternoons.  A  little  to  the  N.E.,  in  the  Rue  de  la  Poste, 
is  the  M'sala  Darb  et-Tamar  (PI.  D,  4;  no  admittance),  a  large 
open  place  of  prayer  for  great  Mohammedan  festivals,  with  an 
underground  cistern  for  rain-water. 

The  main  street  of  the  old  town,  between  the  Bdb  DjeUadin 
(PI.  C,  4;  'Porte  desPeaussiers'),  or  S.gate,  now  partly  demolished, 
ami  the  N.  gate,  the  Porte  de  Tunis  (p.  377),  is  the  Grande  Rtje 
(PI.  C,  B,  4,  3),  officially  called  Rue  du  General-Saussier,  enlivened 
by  a  picturesque  crowd  and  numerous  small  shops. 

In  the  Rue  Sidi  el-Guerian,  the  second  side-street  on  the  right,  is  the 
zaouia  of  Sidi  Abid  el-Guerian  (PI.  C,  4),  an  elegant  building  of  the' 
Turkish  period  (16th  cent.?).  The  handsome  portal,  with  the  black  and 
white  striped  decoration  so  often  recurring  in  the  other  buildings,  leads 
into  a  vestibule  with  tiled  walls  and  stucco  decoration,  beyond  which  are 
a  fine  colonnaded  court  in  two  stories  (with  the  sumptuous  tomb  of  the 
saint  on  the  left)  and  a  small  mosque.  Adjacent  on  the  left  is  the  court 
of  the  Medersa  (p.  228),  where  the  capitals  of  the  columns  are  remarkable 
for  their  richness  and  variety. 

Farther  on  in  the  Grande  Rue  are  several  mosques  of  little 
architectural  interest.  The  gateway  on  the  right,  halfway  between 
the  two  town-gates,  leads  to  the  Souks  (PI.  C,  3.  4).  The  vaulted 
main  street  here,  the  Souk  des  Selliers  and  Sou/c  des  Cordonuiers, 
is  intersected  by  two  vaulted  side-streets,  the  Souk  des  Parfums 
and  Souk  des  Tapis.  The  latter,  for  the  sale  of  carpets,  woollen  rugs 
(margums),  etc.,  has  declined  since  the  vegetable  dyes  have  been 
superseded  by  the  aniline.  The  farther  part  of  the  main  street  is  the 
Souk  des  GaiulouraJis ,  ending  at  the  quiet  Place  Finot  (PI.  C,  3). 

To  the  S.E.  from  the  Place  Finot  the  short  Rue  Moulei-Taieb 
leads  to  the  — 

Djamaa  Tleta  Biban  (PI.  C,  D,  3 ;  Mosquee  des  Trois-Portes), 
in  the  Rue  Hassin  Lalenni.  It  dates  from  the  time  of  Obe'id  Allah 
el-Mahdi  (p.  369),  being  the  only  early-Moorish  building  in  Kair- 
wan  besides  the  Sidi  Okba  mosque,  but  was  much  altered  in  1440 
and  1509.  The  peculiar  facade  in  three  sections,  with  blind  arcades 


374     Route  68.  KAIRWAN.  Sidi  Okba  Mosque 

(possessing  Byzantine  capitals)  on  the  lower  story,  is  composed 
above  of  older  slabs  with  geometrical  ornamentation.  The  interior 
is  uninteresting. 

We  follow  the  Rue  de  la  Mosquee  des  Trois-Portes  to  the  N.E., 
then  the  Rue  Zoughar  to  the  right,  and  at  the  end  of  it  a  street 
to  the  left  to  the  town-wall.  To  the  left,  in  2  min.  more,  we  reach 
the  Place  de  Sousse,  with  the  Bdb  el-Khoukha  (PI.  D,  2,  3),  the 
E.  town-gate,  an  interesting  double  gateway,  with  two  fine  Byz- 
antine capitals  on  the  inner  archway.  From  the  N.  end  of  the  Place 
de  Sousse  the  broad  Rue  de  la  Grande-Mosquee  leads  to  the  — 

*Sidi  Okba  Mosque  (Grande  Mosqu6e;  PI.  D,  1,  2),  one  of 
the  oldest  in  the  world,  and,  next  to  the  Kairwin  mosque  at  Fez, 
the  most  important  in  Barbary.  After  the  mosques  of  Mecca  and 
Medina  and  the  Dome  of  the  Rock  at  Jerusalem  (p.  477),  this  has 
ever  been  deemed  the  greatest  sanctuary  of  Islam.  The  poverty 
of  the  oldest  building,  founded  by  Sidi  Okba  ben-Nafi  in  671,  is 
evidenced  by  the  mud-built  walls  of  the  old  mihrab  (p.  377).  A 
new  building  was  first  erected  in  703  by  Hassan  ibn  en-N6man 
(p.  322),  the  conqueror  of  Carthage.  The  plan  seems  to  have  been 
suggested  by  that  of  the  oldest  Egyptian  mosques  (such  as  the 
mosque  of  Amru,  p.  460),  combined  with  that  of  the  Damous  el- 
Karita  (p.  349),  while  the  ruins  of  Carthage,  Susa,  and  Sbei'tla 
(p.  371)  supplied  the  building-materials.  Of  a  second  new  building 
by  the  governor  Bichr  ibn  Safuan,  in  724,  the  fortress-like  lower 
story  of  the  minaret  still  exists.  A  further  extension  was  made  in 
821  by  the  Aglabide  Sijadet  Allah  I.  The  central  story  of  the  min- 
aret, the  arcades  of  the  quadrangle,  the  Bab  el-Behou  (p.  376), 
and  the  last  enlargement  of  the  sanctuary  itself  are  due  to  the 
Aglabide  Ibrahim  ibn-Ahmed  (d.  875),  who  erected  also  the  fine 
dome  of  the  mihrab,  caused  the  mihrab-wall  to  be  decorated 
by  Bagdad  artists,  and  presented  the  superb  Friday  pulpit.  The 
present  maksvira  (seat  of  the  caliph)  dates  from  the  time  of  the 
Zirite  Abn  Teminn  el-Muizz  (p.  443).  The  decay  of  the  mosque 
after  the  irruption  of  the  Hilalides  seems  to  have  been  first  arrested 
by  Abd  el-Mumen  and  the  Hafside  El-Mostanser  Billah  (p.  332). 
The  latter,  in  1284,  caused  most  of  the  outer  gateways  to  be  rebuilt. 
At  a  later  period  we  hear  of  restorations  by  Mohammed  Murad  Bey 
(p.  335)  and  Hussein  Ali  ben-Turki  (p.  323).  In  1828-42  the  inse- 
cure state  of  the  mosque  necessitated  the  rebuilding  of  the  external 
walls  on  the  N.W.  and  N.E.  sides  and  the  restoration  of  the  minaret, 
the  Bab  el-Behou,  and  the  arcades  of  the  court.  In  1872  the  nave 
and  its  two  adjoining  aisles  also  were  restored,  but  with  little  taste, 
and  since  1895  the  French  government  has  bestowed  its  attention 
on  the  transept  and  the  side-portals. 

The  immense  edifice,  an  irregular  quadrilateral  of  136  by  about 
78-82  yds.,  covers  an  area  of  over  21/i  acres.    The  fortress-like 


Sidi  Okba  Mosque.  KAIRWAN.  «*•  Route.     375 

Outer  Wall,  with  its  huge  buttresses,  has  four  doors  on  both  its 
longer  sides.  These  have  lost  their  bronze  mountings  and  some 
of  them  their  cupolas.  Above  the  S.E.  wall  rises  the  dome  of  the 
mihrab  chapel  and  above  the  N.W.  wall  the  minaret. 

We  first  walk  round  the  whole  enclosure.  From  the  Rue  de  la 
Grande-Mosqu6e  a  short  street  leads  to  the  right,  past  the  new 
Court  of  Ablution  (comp.  p.  63),  to  a  large  open  space  adjoining  the 
S.E.  end  of  the  mosque,  where  there  are  numerous  underground  silos 
or  granaries.  From  the  walls  here  project  the  buildings  of  the 
mihrab  chapel  and  the  maksura,  with  the  Bab  el-lmam  (p.  377). 

A  few  paces  farther,  at  the  beginning  of  the  'Boulevard  Ali 
Bey',  a  poor  street  on  the  N.E.  side  of  the  precincts,  is  the  massive 
square  gateway  tower  of  *Bdb  Leila  Rejana,  adjoined  by  the  in- 
significant domed  tomb  of  that  saint.  The  front  half  of  the  gate- 
way, restored  in  1828,  is  painted  like  the  minaret  with  'giant- 
spiders'  to  ward  off  snakes  and  scorpions,  and  is  adorned  below 
the  battlements  with  blind  horseshoe  arcades.  The  perforated  stucco 
decoration  of  the  arch-recesses  of  the  side-portals  is  one  of  the 
earliest  examples  of  such  work.  The  long  inscription  over  the  door 
extols  caliph  El-Mostanser-Billah  (p.  374),  the  builder. 

Passing  the  next  three  gates  we  come  to  the  N.  angle  of  the 
precincts,  where  their  fortress-like  character  is  most  apparent. 
Beside  the  embrasures  of  the  minaret  (p.  376)  are  seen  cannon-ball 
marks  made  during  the  bombardments  of  the  18th  century. 

The  S.W.  wall  of  the  mosque,  in  the  Rue  de  la  Grande-Mosquee, 
which  we  now  regain,  is  most  in  conformity  with  the  original  plan. 
Most  noteworthy  here  are  the  first  gateway-tower,  near  the  N.W. 
angle,  and  the  Bdb  es-Sultdn,  the  last  gate,  through  which  led 
the  shortest  way  from  the  caliph's  palace  to  the  maksura  (comp. 
p.  377).  The  domes,  now  adorned  with  the  Turkish  crescent,  still 
possess  their  girdle  of  battlements  and  have  their  old  cornice  of 
bricks  placed  crosswise. 

The  present  Entrance  Gateway  (visitors  knock)  is  one  of  the 
small  middle  gates  beside  the  Bab  es-Sultan.  We  descend  a  few 
steps  to  the  court  (now  below  the  level  of  the  street),  where  the 
irregular  plan  of  the  building  is  most  distinctly  seen. 

The  *Codrt  is  bordered  on  the  N.W.  side  by  a  single  colonnade 
and  on  the  other  sides  by  double  arcades,  which  on  the  S.E.  side 
form  the  porch  of  the  sanctuary.  In  contrast  to  the  orange-court 
at  Cordova  (p.  70),  it  is  much  larger  than  the  sanctuary  itself. 
The  marble  pavement  is  modern.  The  perforated  stone  in  the 
centre  of  the  court  conducts  the  rain-water  from  the  gutters  on 
the  flat  roofs  into  a  filtering-apparatus  and  into  three  Cisterns 
below.  The  old  Court  of  Ablution  (Ancienne  Mida;  comp.  above), 
near  the  W.  angle,  and  the  rooms  adjoining  the  minaret  are  now 
used  as  lumber-rooms. 

Baedeker's  Mediterranean.  25 


376     Route  68.  KAIRWAN.  Sidi  Okba  Mosque 

The  Minaret,  128  ft.  high,  an  extremely  massive  tower  in  three 
stories,  rises  in  the  centre  of  the  N.W.  wall,  and  not  in  the  central 
axis  of  the  building  as  is  usual.  The  substructures  have  been  built 
of  Roman  stones  and  the  doorway  framed  with  antique  decorative 
slabs.  The  square  lowest  story  and  narrower  middle  story  are 
crowned  with  peculiar  battlements  with  small  embrasures.  Above 
the  three  metal  balls  (p.  195)  of  the  present  dome  is  perched  the 
Turkish  crescent. 

The  *Ascent  of  the  Minaret  (127  easy  steps)  should  not  be  omitted. 
On  the  lower  platform  we  note  the  muezzin's  hut  (p.  180).  The  upper 
platform  commands  a  superb  survey  of  the  many-domed  town,  of  the 
Barber's  Mosque  (p.  378),  of  the  large  cemeteries  to  the  W.,  and  of  the 
great  plain  of  Kairwan,  bounded  by  Jebel  Trozza  and  other  distant  hills. 

In  the  centre  of  the  porch  of  the  sanctuary  is  the  square  Bdb 
el-Behou  ('pavilion-gate')  with  a  great  horseshoe  archway  and  pin- 
nacled summit.  The  drum  and  dome,  formerly  resembling  the  dome 
of  the  mihrab,  were  rebuilt  in  1828.  The  timber  ceiling  of  the 
adjoining  arcades  is  now  partly  replaced  by  brick-vaulting. 

The  *Main  Door  of  the  sanctuary,  in  cedar-wood,  also  was 
renewed  in  1828  by  wood-carvers  from  Sfax  (p.  380).  The  wings 
are  beautifully  enriched  with  network,  rosettes,  and  arabesques 
(p.  445).  Over  the  door  are  a  frieze  with  an  inscription  and  another 
adorned  with  mashrcblveh  or  lattice-work,  and  above  these  is  a 
pediment  decorated  with  charming  scroll-work.  The  side -doors, 
also  in  cedar-wood,  and  partly  modern,  have  a  simpler  geometric 
ornamentation,  resembling  that  of  the  maksfira  screen  (p.  377). 

The  *Interior  of  the  sanctuary,  in  the  form  of  a  so-called  Egyp- 
tian cross  (T),  with  a  broad  transept  at  the  back,  has  a  nave  and 
sixteen  aisles,  with  eight  rows  of  arcades.  In  the  axis  of  the  Bab  el- 
Behou,  above  the  intersection  of  the  nave  and  transept,  rises  the 
dome  of  the  mihrab-chapel,  in  front  of  the  mihrab-recess.  The  timber 
ceilings  of  the  aisles,  dating  from  different  centuries,  still  retain 
interesting  traces  of  their  old  painting.  The  effect  of  the  nave  is 
marred  by  the  new  braces  and  the  clumsy  modern  stucco-decoration 
of  the  upper  walls.  The  candelabra  are  ancient,  but  of  little  artistic 
value.  The  old  pavement  has  disappeared  and  so  too  have  the 
tapestries  once  used  for  festivals.  The  somewhat  colourless  aspect 
of  the  interior  is  compensated  by  the  beauty  of  the  columns,  which 
here,  as  well  as  in  the  court,  merit  careful  study.  The  shafts,  as  at 
Cordova,  are  of  surprisingly  various  materials:  white  and  coloured 
marble,  onyx,  granite,  porphyry,  and  variegated  breccia.  Besides 
the  few  Moorish  capitals  in  the  more  modern  parts  of  the  mosque, 
we  note  Roman,  early-Christian,  Byzantine,  and  even  Punic-Ionic 
forms.  Owing  to  their  unequal  lengths  some  of  the  columns  have 
been  raised  while  others  are  partly  buried  in  the  earth. 

The  *Mihr&b  Chapel,  unfortunately  thickly  whitewashed,  ia 
specially  noteworthy  for  its  sumptuous  decoration  and  the  peculiar 


Sidi  Okba  Mosque.  KAIRWAN.  5*.  Route.     877 

construction  of  its  dome.  The  chief  enrichment  of  the  wall  consists 
of  *Fayence  with  gold  lustre,  the  oldest  mediaeval  relic  of  this  art- 
industry,  the  origin  of  which  seems  to  be  indicated  by  the  name  of 
1  tehini '  (China  tiles)  given  to  it  by  native  writers.  The  two  beautiful 
Byzantine  columns  which  bear  the  archivolts  of  the  mihrab  are  said 
to  have  come  from  Carthage  Through  the  marble  screen  of  the 
niche,  now  disfigured  by  painting,  we  obtain  a  glimpse  at  the  ancient 
mihrab  of  the  time  of  Sidi  Okba  (p.  374). 

The  **Mznibar)  or  Friday  pulpit,  unfortunately  very  taste- 
lessly restored  in  1907,  adjoining  the  mihrab-recess  on  the  right, 
is  one  of  the  earliest  and  most  beautiful  creations  of  early-Moorish 
art.  On  the  model  of  the  Byzantine  ivory  carving,  its  rectangular 
sections  are  most  charmingly  enriched  with  a  great  variety  of  scroll- 
work and  arabesques.    The  material  is  sycamore-wood. 

The  present  *Malcsura  (see  p.  71),  to  the  right  of  the  pulpit, 
seems  to  be  now  enclosed  with  fragments  of  an  older  screen  of  the 
caliph's  maksfira  and  parts  of  the  wooden  screen  of  a  former  mak- 
sfira for  the  ladies  of  the  court  (to  the  left  of  the  pulpit).  The 
central  sections,  destroyed  in  part,  with  their  plain  geometric  de- 
poration,  are  framed  with  graceful  arabesques.  The  long  Cufic  in- 
scription under  the  pinnacles  of  the  summit  records  the  name  of 
the  founder  (p.  374)  amidst  verses  from  the  Koran. 

At  the  back  of  the  Maksfira  is  a  *Door,  framed  with  late-Koinan 
marble  ornamentation  and  tastefully  embellished  with  iron  nails  and  two 
knockers,  leading  into  a  corridor.  The  side-room  on  the  left,  with 
another  fine  old  door,  contains  a  few  relics  of  the  once  famous  Kairwan 
Library.  The  small  door  in  the  external  wall  is  the  Bab  el-Imam  ('gate 
of  the  preacher'). 

We  now  return  by  the  Rue  el-Kadraouiue  (PI.  D,  C,  2,  3)  to 
Place  Fi not  (p.  373;  and  the  Souks;  or  we  follow  the  town-wall, 
through  the  Rue  Sidi  Abd  el-Kader  (PI.  D,  C,  2)  and  past  the  zaoui'a 
Sidi  Abd  el-Kdder  el-Djildni  (p.  183)  and  the  Kasba  (PL  B,  C,  2 ; 
barracks),  and  so  regain  the  Grande  Rue. 

At  the  N.  end  of  the  Grande  Rue  is  the  new  Porte  de  Tunii 
(PI.  B,  3;  adjoining  the  fine  old  gateway,  adorned  with  antique 
columns),  leading  into  the  Place  de  Tunis,  the  outer  market- 
place, a  haunt  of  reciters  and  jugglers,  with  a  large  Fondouk  (see 
p.  2S1). 

From  the  Place  de  Tunis  we  may  now  walk  to  the  N.,  past  the 
pretty  park  of  the  Pepiniere  (PI.  B,  1),  to  the  (10  min.)  Bassint 
des  Ar/Uibides,  two  round  reservoirs,  the  smaller  of  which  was  once 
used  for  filtering  purposes.  Both  have  been  utilized  since  1885  for 
the  conduit  of  Cherichera,  183/4  M.  long. 

A  road,  much  used  by  caravans,  leads  from  the  Place  de  Tunis, 
past  the  dilapidated  Feskia  du  Said  (PI.  A,  2;  a  rain-water  basin), 
of  the  time  of  Sijadet  Allah  I.,  and  between  cactus-hedges,  to  the 
N.W.  to  (Vibr.)  the  so-called— 

25* 


378     Route  58.  KAIRWAN. 

*Mosqu£e  du  Barbier  (beyond  PI.  A,  2),  the  finest  building 
of  the  Turkish  period.  This  mosque,  which  has  long  been  regarded 
as  the  second  great  sanctuary  of  Kairwan,  lies  most  picturesquely 
among  low  hills  and  is  surrounded  with  white  tombs  of  saints  and 
Moslem  cemeteries.  It  is  dedicated  to  Abu  Zemaa  el-Beloui,  the 
traditional  friend  (sahab)  and  barber  of  the  prophet. 

The  extensive  group  of  buildings,  with  several  medersas  annexed, 
dates  chiefly  from  the  17-19th  centuries.  The  outer  gate  leads  into  a  low 
forecourt.  In  the  corner,  between  the  two  main  entranf.es,  rises  the 
handsome  minaret  (*View),  in  four  stories,  with  blind  arcades  in  the  two 
lower,  and  crowned  with  pinnacles  and  the  muezzin's  turret.  The  large 
W.  portal,  adorned  like  the  minaret  with  Byzantine  columns,  opens  into 
the  first  inner  court,  on  whose  W.  side  rises  the  plain  mosque  itself  with 
its  nave  and  two  aisles.  A  remarkably  beautiful  domed  chamber  leads 
into  the  second  *Inner  Court,  a  perfect  gem,  with  its  slender  little  marble 
columns,  old  wall-tiles,  rich  stucco-decoration,  and  modern  soffited  ceilings. 
A  superb  marble  portal  of  Italian  workmanship  (18th  cent.)  leads  to  the 
alleged  tomb  of  Sidi  Sahab,  which  is  railed  in  and  surrounded  with 
valuable  old  Kairwan  carpets  besides  much  European  frippery.  From 
the  domed  chamber  a  *Colonnade  to  the  left  and  another  ante-room,  also 
embellished  with  fine  mural  tiles,  lead  us  back  to  the  outer  court. 

The  large  Moslem  Cemeteries,  which  extend  round  the  Fau- 
bourg des  Djlass  (p.  372)  from  the  Barber's  Mosque  all  the  way  to 
the  S.  suburb,  still  contain  some  very  old  tombstones.  They  afford 
a  beautiful  view  of  Kairwan,  especially  by  evening  light. 

The  Djarnaa  Amor  Abeda  (PI.  A,  3,  4;  popularly  called  Mosquee 
des  Sabres),  whose  five  huge  domes  of  mediaeval  type  dominate  the  poor 
streets  of  the  Faubourg  des  Djlass,  was  built  by  the  saint  of  that  name 
d.  1871),  formerly  a  smith,  with  alms  collected  for  the  purpose. 


59.  Prom  Susa  to  Sfax. 

Till  the  opening  of  the  new  railway  (81'/aM.)  in  1911,  which  diverges 
from  the  line  to  Mehdia  at  Ouardenine  (p.  369),  this  excursion  must  be 
made  by  Road  (7972  M.).  Motor-omnibus  of  the  Bone-Guelma  Co.,  starting 
from  the  station,  in  61/*  hrs.  (in  the  reverse  direction  7  hrs.),  fare  7  fr.  50  c. ; 
at  El-Djem,  halfway  (fare  3  fr.  75  c),  the  1j2  hr.  allowed  for  visiting  the 
amphitheatre  barely  suffices.  Seats  should  be  secured  beforehand;  outside 
(imperiale)  preferable  in  fine  weather.  Diligence  at  night,  in  14  hrs.,  fare 
12  fr.  90  c.  (to  El-Djem  in  P','a  his.,  6  fr.),  uncomfortable.  —  Steambes  to 
Sfax,  comp.  R.  64. 

Susa,  see  p.  366.  The  road  leads  round  the  town  on  the  side 
next  the  sea.  It  then  ascends  through  the  new  industrial  and  villa 
quarters,  and  past  the  Jewish  and  the  Christian  Cemeteries  (on  the 
left),  to  the  hill-country  of  the  Sahel  (p.  366). 

A  little  to  the  left  lie  the  thriving  villages  of  Zaouiet-Sousse  and 
Ksiba,  and  to  the  right  Messadine.  The  soil  is  extremely  fertile; 
the  road  is  bordered  with  huge  olive-trees  and  tall  cactus-hedges. 

To  the  right,  also  off  the  road,  lies  (71/,  M.)  M'Saken  (154  ft.; 
Hot.  de  France;  pop.  10,000),  a  station  on  the  Mehdia  line  (p.  369), 
whence  a  road  leads  to  Kairwan  (p.  372). 


EL-DJEM.  39.  Route.     379 

The  country  beyond  M'Saken,  one  of  the  most  fertile  parts  of 
central  Tunisia  in  ancient  times,  has  become  a  mere  desert  since 
the  Arab  irruptions.  In  the  midst  of  the  dreary  steppe,  scantily 
overgrown  with  alfa,  appear  a  few  corn-fields  and  olive-planta- 
tions, the  first  signs  of  renewed  colonization.  Here  and  there  are 
seen  Arabs  with  their  camels,  belonging  to  the  Souassi  tribe,  now 
partly  settled  on  the  land,  descendants  of  the  Hilalides  (p.  323). 

In  the  distance  to  the  right,  beyond  Bourdjine,  the  only  village 
before  El-Djem,  appears  the  Sebkha  Sidi  el-Hani  (p.  370).  23  M. 
Col  de  Koudiat  el-Goulal  (525  ft.),  the  highest  point  on  the  road. 

We  are  now  in  sight  of  the  amphitheatre  of  El-Djem,  whose 
enormous  pile  dominates  the  landscape  for  miles  around. 

40  M.  El-Djem  (361  ft. ;  Hot.  de  1' Amphitheatre,  K.  2-3,  B.  8/4, 
dej.  3,  D.  3^4  fr.,  humble,  charges  should  be  ascertained),  a  poor 
Arab  village  with  a  few  olive  and  cactus  plantations,  is  the  site 
of  Thysdrus,  which  in  the  late-Roman  age  was  one  of  the  most 
thriving  towns  near  the  E.  coast  and  the  junction  of  seven  roads. 

About  1/4  M.  from  the  inn  and  the  post-office  (halting-place  of 
the  motor-omnibus)  is  the  ** Amphitheatre,  the  grandest  Roman 
structure  in  Barbary  (first  half  of  the  3rd  cent.),  noted  in  history 
also  as  a  fortress.  Here  in  689,  after  the  defeat  of  the  united 
Byzantines  and  Berbers  by  Zoheir  ibn  KaYs  (p.  322),  the  prophetess 
(kahina)  Damia,  the  legendary  leader  of  the  Berbers,  is  said  to  have 
still  defied  her  enemies.  In  1685  the  building,  still  almost  intact, 
where  many  a  rebel  had  sought  refuge,  was  blown  up  on  the  W 
side  by  order  of  Mohammed  Murad  Bey  (p.  335).  Since  then  it  has 
served  the  villagers  of  El-Djem  as  a  quarry.  The  topmost  story, 
consisting  of  an  attica  with  Corinthian  pilasters,  the  tiers  of  seats, 
and  the  stone  steps  have  gradually  disappeared.  The  ascent  (not 
without  the  Arab  keeper;  1/2  fr.)  is  very  toilsome. 

The  remaining  three  stories  are  108ft.  high;  the  groundfloor 
is  now  buried  10  ft.  below  the  surface.  The  arches  (once  60)  of  the 
lower  and  upper  stories  are  adorned  with  Corinthian  mural  columns ; 
the  central  story  has  composite  capitals.  The  axes  are  164  and 
1 36  yds.  respectively ;  the  arena  where  the  gladiators  and  wild  beasts 
fought,  unearthed  in  1909,  with  its  huge  substructures  (comp.  p.  348), 
measures  71  by  57  yds.  (This  is  the  fifth  in  size  of  Roman  amphi- 
theatres: Colosseum  205  by  170,  the  Capuan  186  by  153,  that  of 
Italica  near  Seville  170  by  147,  and  that  of  Verona  167  by  134  yds.). 

Recent  excavations  outside  the  village,  whose  dirty  streets  flank  the 
amphitheatre  on  two  sides,  have  revealed  vestiges  of  Thermae  (about 
10  niin.  to  the  N.W.),  of  Cisterns,  a  Circus,  and  a  small  older  Amphi- 
theatre. In  the  forecourt  of  a  kubba,  0  min.  to  the  S.W.,  are  placed  several 
large  Roman  capitals. 

Road  from  El-Djem  to  Mehdia,  see  p.  370. 

We  again  traverse  a  very  monotonous  region,  without  a  single 
village.    On  the  left  is  the  Sebkha  m'laa  el-Djem,  a  salt-lake. 


330     Route  59.  SFAX.  Practical  Note*. 

Beyond  it  lies  the  hill-country  of  the  Arab  Metellit  tribe,  belonging 
to  the  Terres  Sialines  (sec  below). 

Beyond  (5V/2  M.)  Ste.  Juliette  we  enter  the  olive-zone  of  Sfax. 
711/2M.  Kubba  Sidi-Salah,  on  the  Oucd  Sidi  Salah,  which  flows 
largely  underground  and  now  partly  supplies  Sfax  with  water.  Lastly 
the  road  leads  between  garden-walls  built  of  mud  and  fringed  with 
Indian  figs  and  through  the  suburb  of  Moulinville  to  — 

79>/2  M.  Sfax.  —  Tie  Railway  Station  (PI.  C,  D,  2),  for  Metlaoui 
(R.  GO)  and  for  the  new  line  to  Susa  (see  p.  378),  is  close  to  the  sea,  '/a  M. 
from  the  hotels  or  from  the  quay.  Here  at  present  the  motor-omnibus 
from  Susa  stops. 

Arrival  by  Sea  (comp.  R.  64).  The  steamers  of  the  Comp.  Gen.  Trans- 
atlantique  (office,  Boul.  de  France  13),  the  Societa  Nazionale  (office  near 
Douane),  and  the  Navigation  Mixte  (office,  Rue  Emile  Loubet)  moor  at  the 
quay.     Harbour-dues  4  or  3  fr. ;  cabs,  see  below. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  324).  Hot.  de  France  (PI.  a;  B,  3),  Rue  Victor- 
Hugo  4,  R.  3-6,  B.  1,  dej.  or  D.  3,  pens.  9-10  fr.,  plain;  Hot.  Moderne 
(PI.  b;  B,  3),  same  street,  No.  6,  R.  3-5,  B.  1,  D.  8,  pons.  7'/2-iu  fr.  — Cafes. 
Cristal  and  Glacier,  Boul.  de  France. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  6;  C,  3),  Avenue  de  Paris. 

Banks  (comp.  p.  174).  Banque  de  VAlgirie,  Rue  Michaud;  Comp. 
Algerienne  (No.  32)  and  Comptoir  d'Escompte  de  Paris  (No.  15),  Ave. 
de  Paris. — Booksellers.  Chabert,  Rue  de  la  Republique  51;  Revol,  same 
street,  No.  17. 

British  Vice-Consul,  S.  Lconardi.  —  Lloyd's  Agent,  E.  Carleton.  — 
English  Physician,  Dr.  P.  BuckweU. 

Cabs  (stands  near  the  Marche  aux  Cereales,  p.  881,  and  in  the  Rue 
de  Thina,  PI.  B,  C,  3).  Drive  within  a  radius  of  2  kilometres  (l'/4  M.)  from 
Bab  Diwan,  '/a  fr- ;  with  two  horses,  3/4  or  1  fr. ;  per  hr.  (one  horse)  1  fr.  30, 
(two  horses)  1  fr.  50  or  1  fr.  70  c;  half-day  (6  hrs.)  5</2,  7,  or  9  f r. ;  day 
(l2  hrs.)  9,  12,  or  15  fr. 

Diligence  Office  (p.  173)  in  the  theatre  (PI.  C,  3). — Motor  Cars, 
for  excursions,  at  Garage  Pasqnier,  Rue  Lamoriciere  (100-150  fr.  per  day); 
Central  Garage,  Rue  Charles-Quint. 

The  Sights  may  be  visited  in  2-3  hrs. 

Sfax,  Arabic  Sfakes  (pop.  70,000,  incl.  6400  Europeans,  of 
whom  3100  are  Italians  and  1300  Maltese),  the  second-largest  town 
in  Tunisia,  is  also  its  chief  seaport  next  to  Tunis.  It  lies  on  the 
shallow  N.  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  Gabes,  adjacent  to  the  Kerkenna 
Banks  and  opposite  the  Kerkenna  Islands  (p.  405).  Many  of  the 
natives  live  in  small  houses  outside  the  town,  amidst  the  beautiful 
orchards  which  girdle  Sfax  for  nearly  10  M.  around.  Beyond  the 
gardens  lies  the  olive-zone,  like  them  artificially  irrigated,  covering 
some  500  acres,  and  numbering  three  million  trees.  It  lies  chiefly 
in  the  Terres  Sialines,  a  region  named  after  the  Siala  family,  but 
now  owned  by  the  state.  After  the  Arab  incursions  it  became  a 
mere  desert,  but  modern  cultivation  has  restored  its  ancient  pros- 
perity. Sfax  owes  its  rapid  rise  to  the  export  of  olive-oil,  almonds, 
figs,  and  vegetables  from  the  interior,  dates  from  the  Djerid  (p.  386), 
alfa  from  the  steppes,  of  which  cables  are  made  in  the  Kerkenna 
Islands,  and  above  all  to  its  trade  in  the  phosphates  of  Metlaoui 
(p.  386)  and  Redeyef  (p.  372).  It  is  important  also  as  a  fish-market 


Warbour.  SFAX.  "■"»•  Route.     3S1 

and  as  a  mnrt  for  the  sponges  of  the  bay,  especially  from  the  Ker- 
kenna  hanks.  In  the  sponge-fishery  Greeks,  Maltese,  and  Sicilians 
vie  with  the  Kerkenna  islanders. 

Sfax,  the  ancient  Taparura,  which  was  one  of  the  smallest  seaports 
on  the  bay  of  Gabes,  is  of  little  historical  note.  In  the  first  half  of  the 
12th  cent,  it  fell,  along  with  Mehdia  (p.  309),  into  the  hands  of  the  Nor- 
mans (p.  323),  and  in  1539  it  was  occupied  for  a  time  by  the  Spaniards, 
who  possessed  also  the  Kerkenna  Islands.  Its  harbour  was  much  ben- 
efited by  the  French  occupation  of  Algeria,  as  the  caravans  from  the 
Sudan  thereafter  went  to  Sfax,  Gabes,  and  Tripoli  (p.  406).  It  was  not 
till  1832  that  Christian  merchants  were  allowed  to  settle  outside  the  Bah 
Diwan,  the  sea-gate.  When  the  French  arrived  in  1881  Sfax,  like  Kairwan, 
was  a  camp  of  the  warlike  nomads  of  central  and  S.  Tunisia,  owing  to 
whose  resistance  the  town  had  to  suffer  a  bombardment  and  to  pay  a  war- 
indemnity  of  15  million  francs.  For  that  disaster  and  for  the  decline  of 
its  trade  with  inland  Africa  the  colonization  of  the  environs  and  the 
improvement  of  the  harbour  (1895-7)  have  since  made  amends. 

From  the  open  roads  at  the  end  of  the  Kerkenna  inlet,  where 
larger  vessels  formerly  had  to  anchor,  a  Harbour  Canal,  2952  yds. 
in  length  and  44  in  breadth,  now  leads  into  the  Bassin  (PI.  D,  E, 
4)  of  25  acres,  adjoining  which  is  the  Bassin  des  Torpilleurs 
(PL  C,  D,  4).  On  the  quay  bordering  the  town,  492  yds.  long,  are 
the  Douane  and  two  large  warehouses.  On  the  N.E.  quay  are  the 
stores  of  the  phosphate  railway,  whence  ships  are  loaded  by  means 
of  a  long  shoot.  The  Clicnal  pour  pctils  Bateaux  connects  the 
main  harbour  with  the  small  Darsc  (PI.  B,  4),  the  harbour  for 
fishing-boats. 

The  mud-banks  between  the  new  harbour  and  the  old  quay  (now 
Boul.  de  France)  have  been  artificially  raised  and  converted  into 
an  area  of  50  acres  for  building.  The  projected  new  quarter,  with 
its  straight  and  shadeless  streets,  has  made  little  progress  as  yet. 
Between  it  and  the  older  suburb,  built  since  1832,  are  the  Avenue 
de  Paris  and  the  palm-avenue  of  the  Boulevard  de  France  (PI.  B, 
C,  3),  where  most  of  the  public  buildings  are  situated. 

In  the  Ave.  de  Paris  are  the  Controle  Civil  (PI.  1;  C,  3),  the 
Post  Office  (PI.  6;  C,  3),  and  the  Hotel  de  Ville  (PI.  C,  3).  The  last 
has  a  small  museum  (open  daily  except  Sun.)  containing  Roman 
antiquities,  mostly  from  Thsense  (p.  383).  Among  the  mosaics  are 
fishing  scenes,  Arion  on  the  dolphin,  and  Pugilists. 

Beyond  the  E.  end  of  the  Boul.  de  France  and  the  Place  Carnot 
(PI.  C,  2)  lies  the  Jewish  Quarter.  The  Boul.  de  France  leads  to 
the  W.,  past  the  Rue  de  la  Republique,  the  chief  business  street  of 
the  new  quarters,  to  the  Marchd  aux  Cereales  (PI.  B,  3),  -which 
may  be  reached  also  by  the  Rue  Victor-Hugo.  Near  this,  adjoining 
the  harbour  of  the  fishing-boats,  is  the  Marchi  (PI.  B,  3,  4)  for 
pottery,  where  the  large  'jarres  d'huile',  made  chiefly  by  the 
Metellits  (p.  380),  resemble  the  ancient  amphorae. 

The  picturesque  but  not  over-clean  old  town  is  still  enclosed 
by  its  battlemented  *Town  "Walls,  -with  their  numerous  towers 


382     Route  59.  SPAX. 

and  bastions.  The  fortifications  next  the  sea,  the  Kasha  (PI.  A,  3 ; 
barracks,  no  admittance)  and  the  Bordj  en-Nar  (PI.  0,  2),  were 
the  chief  objects  of  attack  by  the  French  ships  and  troops  in  1881. 

The  old  town  is  entered  by  the  Bab  Djedid  (PI.  A,  3),  the  Bdb 
Diwdn  (PI.  B,  2),  at  the  end  of  the  Rue  de  la  Republique,  and  the 
new  Porte  Delcasse"  (PI.  B,  2;  1903).  Its  main  streets  are  the  Rue 
de  la  Grande-Mosquee,  the  shortest  way  to  the  Souks  (see  below), 
and  the  Rue  du  Bey  (PI.  B,  2,  1). 

In  the  Rue  des  Aissaouas  (No.  12),  a  few  paces  to  the  right  of 
the  Rue  du  Bey,  is  the  Zaou'ia  Sidi  ben-Aissa  (p.  373),  with  its 
line  portal.  The  castigations  practised  by  the  sect  may  be  seen 
here  on  Fridays,  from  2.30  to  5  p.m. 

In  the  Rue  de  la  Driba,  the  third  street  to  the  right  off  the  Rue 
du  Bey,  No.  4,  on  the  left,  is  the  Driba  (PI.  2;  B,  2),  a  fine  type 
of  an  aristocratic  mansion,  with  a  picturesque  colonnaded  court  on 
the  first  floor  (fee  J/2  fr.).  Opposite,  at  No.  5  Rue  Regulus,  one  of 
the  Portals  has  the  geometric  ornamentation  so  common  in  every 
part  of  the  town. 

At  the  end  of  the  Rue  de  la  Grande-Mosquee  rises  the  vener- 
able Chief  Mosque  (PI.  B,  2),  with  its  square  whitewashed  minaret, 
whose  upper  half  is  of  the  13th  century.  The  main  facade  recalls 
Syrian  types  (Kalat  Siman),  and  the  ten  arcades  of  the  interior  are 
like  those  of  the  Sidi  Okba  mosque  (p.  374). 

Just  beyond  the  mosque  are  the  Souks,  or  markets.  Their 
centre  is  the  vaulted  Souk  des  Etofjfes  (PI.  B,  2),  with  a  large 
assortment  of  'gadrouns',  the  chief  garment  of  the  people  of  Sfax, 
blankets  from  Gafsa,  etc.  Its  continuation,  the  Rue  des  Teinturiers, 
leads  to  the  Bdb  Djebli  (PI.  A,  1),  the  picturesque  N.W.  gate. 

To  the  right  the  town-wall  is  skirted  by  the  Rue  des  Forgerons 
(PI.  B,  1),  with  its  balconies.  To  the  left,  Rue  Abd  el-Kader  62,  is 
the  law-court  of  the  Ouzara  (PI.  A,  1 ;  sits  Wednesday  and  Saturday 
forenoons),  with  a  pretty  court. 

Outside  Bab  Djebli  is  the  bustling  cattle-market,  enclosed  by 
fondouks  or  caravanserais,  where  we  have  a  pretty  view  of  several 
saints'  tombs  and  palm-shaded  gardens. 

A  pleasant  glimpse  of  the  country  and  its  inhabitants  is  afforded  by 
a  drive  to  the  Toual  el-Chridi  (tariff,  see  p.  380;  but  bargain  advisable). 
Beyond  the  Bab  Djebli  we  pass  the  large  Feskiae,  or  rain-water  reser- 
voirs, and  then  numerous  Nasrias  or  small  cisterns.  The  *Orchard  Zone 
extends  about  5  M.  inland.  Passing  through  olive-groves  and  flanked 
withstraight  rows  of  trees  the  road  ascends  to  the  (13i/2  M.)  Toual  el- 
Chridi  (433  ft.),  a  hill  with  a  geometric  signal,  a  kind  of  pyramid  in 
steps,  where  we  have  an  extensive  view  stretching  to  the  sea. 

On  the  road  to  Gabes  (p.  389),  beyond  the  S.W.  suburb  of  Picville 
and  the  Rond-Point,  is  the  Jardin  Public,  watered  by  large  basins,  with 
the  Jardin  d'Essai,  or  botanic  garden. 

In  the  sea,  nearly  1  M.  outside  the  harbour,  is  a  Biological  Station 
for  the  promotion  of  the  sponge-culture  (comp.  p.  381). 

From  Sfax  to  Gafsa  and  Metlaotti,  see  R.  60;  to  Djerba,  see  R.  62; 
to  Tunis  by  sea,  see  R.  64;  to  Tripoli  and  Malta,  see  R.  64. 


383 

60.  Prom  Sfax  to  Metlaoui  via  Gafsa. 

151  M.  Narrow  Gauge  Railway  (Comp.  des  Phosphates  et  du  Chemin 
de  Fer  de  Gafsa),  in  9s/4-10y4  hrs.  (27  fr.  20,  20  fr.  65,  14  fr.  GO  c);  to  Gafsa, 
127  M.,  in  8-9  hrs.  (22  fr.  95,  17  fr.  45,  12  fr.  30  c. ;  return-ticket,  valid  for 
5  days,  82  fr.  15.  24  fr.  40,  17  fr.  20  c.).  Railway  Restaurant  at  Graiba 
only;  it  is  advisable  to  take  provisions. 

Sfax,  see  p.  380.  The  train  skirts  the  inland  side  of  the  town 
and  then  runs  to  the  S.W.,  near  the  coast.  To  the  left  rises  the 
lighthouse  of  Eds  Tina  (p.  405),  near  the  ruins  of  Thaenae,  once 
the  chief  harbour  for  the  export  of  olive-oil  from  the  interior. 

18  M.  Oued-Chaffar.  22'/2  M.  Mahares  (pop.  1000),  a  fishing- 
village  and  market  for  the  Mehadla  Tribe,  is  the  last  fruit-tree 
oasis  to  the  S.W.  of  Sfax.  Above  it  rises  an  old  fortified  Bordj. 
On  the  left,  close  to  the  shore,  near  the  Gabes  road  (R.  62),  is  seen 
the  castle  of  Ounga,  with  its  eight  towers,  which  is  said  to  have 
been  built  by  the  knights  of  Malta  (p.  398). 

Leaving  the  coast  the  train  runs  to  the  W.,  through  an  almost 
uninhabited  sandy  waste,  to  (3972  M.)  Graiba  (Rail.  Restaurant), 
from  which  a  diligence  plies  to  Gabes  (p.  389). 

In  the  distance  appears  the  bare  S.  Tunisian  hill-country,  with 
Jebel  Bou-Hedma  (2559  ft.).  On  the  left  lie  the  flats  of  the  largo 
Sebkha  en-Noua'il. 

01  M.  Mezzouna,  at  the  N.  base  of  Jebel  Mezzouna  (1329  ft.), 
where  alfa  abounds.  7672  ^.  Maknassi  (hotel),  a  village  of  col- 
onists, with  olive-groves,  and  an  important  alfa  station,  lies  in 
the  Bled  Maknassi,  a  monotonous  plain  on  the  N.  spurs  of  Jebel 
Maknassi.  (1332  ft.).  To  the  N.W.  appears  Jebel  Majora  (2871  ft.). 

98  M.  Sened  (1575  ft.),  the  highest  point  on  the  line,  with  largo 
alla-stacks,  is  the  station  for  Sened  (1706  ft.),  a  village  5  M.  to 
the  S.E.,  on  the  olive-clad  slope  of  Jebel  Biadha  (3248  ft.). 

We  now  descend  through  cactus  plantations,  and  in  spring 
through  corn-fields,  to  the  Bled  el-Hamra,  a  lofty  plain  to  the  N. 
of  Jebel  Own  el-Alhg  (3839  ft.),  in  the  territory  of  the  great  no- 
madic tribe  of  the  Hamama.  1107a  M.  Ain-Zannouch,  the  only 
station  with  good  drinking-water.  On  the  right  are  extensive  dunes, 
formed  by  disintegration. 

The  train  rounds  Jebel  Orbata  (p.  385)  and  then  enters  the 
valley  of  the  Oued  Ba'iech. 

127  M.  Gafsa.  —  The  Station  (about  1000  ft.)  lies  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  stream,  2'/4  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  old  town  (diligence  twice  dailv 
in  «/*  hr.). 

Hotels.  Hotel  de  France,  Place  de  la  Kasba,  R.  3-5,  B.  3/4,  de\j. 
or  D.  3,  pens.  8-10,  onin.  1  fr.,  plain;  Buffet- Hotel,  at  the  station. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office,  Place  de  la  Poste. 

Carriages  (limited  in  number),  20-25  fr.  per  day;  to  Tebessa  (p.  315) 
or  to  Kairwan  (p.  372)  120  fr.  — Diligence  to  Tebessa,  see  p.  318.  -r  Horse 
or  Mule  (3-5  fr.  per  day),  best  obtained  through  the  Contrdle  Civil,  where 
tickets  for  the  mosques  also  are  obtained. 


384     Routt  60.  GAFSA.  From.  Sfax 

Gafsa  (1067  ft. ;  pop.  4500,  incl.  about  1000  Jews  and  360  Euro- 
peans), the  ancient  Capsa,  is  a  peaceful  little  oasis-town,  with  two 
hot  springs  (SS-Ol1//  Fahr.)  and  several  cold,  rising  in  or  near  the 
river-bed.  The  old  town  lies  on  the  edge  of  the  plateau,  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Oued  Bai'ech,  which  almost  everywhere  else  is  dry.  It  has 
formed  a  valley  about  3  M.  broad,  between  Jebel  Orbata  (3839  ft. ; 
p.  385),  on  the  E.,  and  the  spurs  of  Jebel  Bou-Ramli  (3609  ft.) 
on  the  N.W.,  this  being  the  only  considerable  pass  between  the 
S.  Tunisian  steppe  and  the  shotts  (p.  320).  The  town  is  sheltered 
by  Jebel  Ben-Younis  (3002  ft.)  and  Jebel  Assalah  from  the  cold 
N.W.  and  N.  winds,  and  like  El-Kantara  (p.  276)  is  a  portal  of  the 
desert.  Its  mild  climate  and  beautiful  oasis  render  it  a  fine  wintei 
residence  for  persons  of  moderate  requirements. 

Capsa  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  interior  of  Tunisia. 
Owing  to  its  remote  situation  in  the  extreme  southern  part  of  his  domin- 
ions Jugurtha  (p.  321)  made  it  one  of  his  headquarters  and  his  treasury;  but 
one  morning  at  dawn,  after  a  nine  days'  march  from  Lares  (p.  360),  so 
graphically  described  by  Sallust,  it  was  surprised  by  Marius  and  razed  to 
the  ground  in  106.  Under  Augustus  the  town  was  still  in  ruins,  yet  in  the 
2nd  cent,  it  vied  with  Thelepte  (Feriana,  p.  371)  as  one  of  the  wealthiest 
towns  in  S.  Tunisia.  Through  Capsa  ran  the  important  caravan-routes 
between  Tebessa  and  Gabes,  those  to  Feriana,  Sbe'itla,  and  Susa,  and 
via  Tozeur  to  the  Limes  Tripolitanus  (p.  412).  With  the  exception  of  the 
PiscinaB  (see  below)  all  the  Roman  structures  have  been  demolished  for 
modern  building  purposes.  The  town- walls  were  rebuilt  by  Solomon 
(p.  315)  in  Justinian's  reign,  and  in  the  Moorish  period  were  succeeded 
by  a  triple  mud-built  wall,  of  which  scarcely  a  traco  is  left.  The  By- 
zantine citadel,  built  of  Roman  materials,  was  succeeded  by  the  Moorish 
Kasba,  which  the  French  have  now  converted  into  barracks.  Since  the 
entry"  of  the  French  troops  in  18S1  the  mosques  have  been  regarded  as 
desecrated. 

From  the  new  Gafsa-Gare  quarter  a  street  leads  to  the  Oued 
Bai'ech,  crosses  it,  where  native  washerwomen  and  thirsty  camels 
often  present  an  entertaining  scene,  and  ascends  on  the  border  of 
the  oasis  (p.  3S5)  to  the  old  town,  dominated  by  groups  of  palm- 
trees  and  two  minarets. 

The  large  Champ  de  Foire  and  the  Fondouk  (p.  281),  on  the 
E.  side  of  the  town,  are  full  of  life  when  caravans  arrive  with  their 
dates  from  the  Djerid  (p.  386).  The  corn-market  in  the  Halle  a ux 
Grains  also  is  of  some  importance. 

From  the  Place  du  Marche  (market  on  Wednesday),  at  the  S. 
end  of  the  Champ  de  Foire,  the  Rue  du  Gen.-Philebert  leads  through 
the  town  to  the  Place  de  la  Kasba.  Here,  on  the  "W.  side,  rises  the 
Kasba,  with  its  towers  and  white  pinnacled  walls,  once  the  chief 
sight  at  Gafsa,  but  now  the  barracks  of  military  convicts.  View 
from  the  Postc  Optique  (adm.  on  application).  The  Jewish  Quarter 
with  its  narrow  streets,  lies  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Place  de  la  Kasba, 
on  the  X.  side  of  the  town. 

The  dilapidated  Roman  Piscun-js  (Arabic  Termid,  from  'ther- 
mae') are  still  used  as  baths.   The  Jewish  Bath  is  fed  by  the  Kasba 


to  Metlaoui.  GAFSA.  60.  Route.     385 

spring.  The  largest  basins,  supplied  by  the  hot  spring  outside  the 
Kasba  and  chiefly  used  by  the  Moslems,  are  in  the  Ddr  el-Bey,  to 
the  S.E.  of  the  Place  de  la  Kasba.  The  men's  bath  (Termid  er-Rayel), 
where  the  children  love  to  dive  for  sou-pieces,  is  worth  seeing.  In 
the  beautifully  clear  water  tiny  fish  (Chromis,  occurring  also  in  the 
underground  waters  of  the  Sahara),  little  black  snakes,  and  small 
tortoises  disport  themselves  among  the  bathers. 

A  little  to  the  S.  of  the  Piscina?  are  the  Souks.  Foremost  among 
their  wares  are  bright-coloured  blankets  (frechias),  burnouses,  and 
carpets  (guetifs),  mostly  made  by  the  Hamamas  (p.  383). 

The  Sidi  Yakub  Mosque  (Grande  Mosquee),  to  the  S.W.  of  the 
Dar  el-Bey,  one  of  the  oldest  in  Tunisia,  is  noteworthy  for  its 
interior  with  nave  and  eighteen  aisles,  in  the  style  of  the  Sidi  Okba 
mosque  at  Kairwan  (p.  374).  The  minaret,  especially  towards 
evening,  affords  a  charming  *View  of  the  town  and  the  oasis,  and 
of  the  finely  shaped  hills  and  the  yellow  desert  to  the  S. 

The  **Oasis,  nearly  4  sq.  M.  in  area,  the  richest  and  greenest 
palm-oasis  in  all  Barbary,  offers  many  delightful  walks.  Most  of 
the  paths  conveniently  overlook  the  little  gardens  lying  below  them, 
watered  by  numerous  runlets  from  the  Piscinae. 

In  the  shade  of  the  palms  grow  apricots,  peaches,  figs,  pomegranates, 
quinces,  almonds,  pears,  and  olives,  and  here  and  there  oranges  and  lemons. 
The  vine,  with  its  vigorous  and  picturesque  tendrils,  climbs  up  the  palm 
trees  or  the  nettle-trees  (Celtis  australis)  planted  for  its  support,  yielding 
ripe  crapes  as  early  as  June.  Below  all  these  trees  the  soil  is  carpeted, 
in  the  cooler  season,  with  vegetables,  melons,  wheat,  and  barley.  The  \V. 
margin  of  the  oasis,  however,  where  water  is  scarce,  yields  olives  only. 

Fine  points  of  view  are  the  hill  of  Sidi  Bou-Yahia,  crowned 
with  a  kuhba,  on  the  N.W.  margin  of  the  oasis,  the  Ksour  Nala, 
a  spur  of  Jebel  Ben-Younes,  and,  separated  from  the  latter  by  the 
depression  of  the  Foum  el-Maza,  Jebel  Assalah,  whence  we  survey 
also  the  steppe  stretching  to  the  N.  to  Jebel  Sidi  A'ich. 

From  Oafsa  to  Madjen  Bel-Abbes  (Feriana),  see  p.  372;  viA,  Feriana 
to  Tebessa,  seo  p.  318. 

A  Eoad  leads  to  the  S.E.  via  the  olive-oasis  of  El-Ksar  to  (3:,/4  M.) 
Leila,  a  charming  little  palm-oasis;  then,  aside  from  the  Sebkha  Wei- 
G-uettar,  to  (12'/* M.)  El-Guettar  (952  ft.;  two  caravanserais;  pop.  1800), 
a  palm  and  olive  oasis  at  the  S.  base  of  Jebel  Orbata  (3839  ft.;  fine  view 
from  the  Poste  Optique;  ascent  by  bridle-path  2'/a-3  hrs.).  The  route  from 
El-Guettar  to  (83  M.)  Gabcs  (p.  389),  leading  almost  all  the  way  through 
an  arid  wilderness,  is  fit  only  for  those  who  are  used  to  fatigue  and 
privations.     (Poor  quarters  at  Bir  Saud  and  El-Uuffey  only.) 

Beyond  Gafsa  the  train  crosses  the  Oued  Bai'ech  and  beyond 
the  oasis  it  enters  the  sandy  and  stony  waste  between  the  salt-marsh 
Garact  el-Oglal  (on  the  right)  and  the  chain  of  JebelRosfa  (1411  ft.) 
and  Jebel  Jellabia  (1346  ft. ;  to  the  S.).  Beyond  the  dry  bed  of 
the  Oued  Melah  the  long  range  of  Jebel  Tarfaoui  (p.  388)  appears 
far  to  the  left. 


386     Route  ei.  THE  DJERU). 

We  skirt  the  S.  base  of  Jebel  Stah  (2953  ft.),  Jebel  Tarfai 
(2166  ft.),  and  Jebel  Metlaoui  (1805  ft.),  all  rich  in  phosphates. 
These  hills,  overgrown  with  alfa-grass  only,  are,  like  those  near 
Gafsa,  a  favourite  haunt  of  the  gazelle;  the  maned  sheep  (p.  277) 
also  occurs. 

151  M.  Metlaoui  (643  ft.;  Hot.  Rey,  R.,  dej.,  D.,  3  fr.  each, 
quite  good),  Arabic  Metldwi,  on  the  S.  slope  of  Jebel  Seldja, 
not  far  from  the  Oued  Seldja  (p.  372),  lies  in  the  heart  of  the  S. 
Tunisian  phosphate-region,  which  extends  to  Rcdeyef  (p.  372),  to 
A'in-Moulares  (p.  372),  and  to  Jebel  Mrata  on  the  Algerian  frontier. 
The  phosphate  is  detached  from  the  hill-sides  by  blasting  (fou- 
droyage)  and  then  spread  out  to  dry  on  the  ground,  where  it  is 
turned  over  several  times  by  ploughs.  The  works  employ  about 
5000  hands,  mostly  Italians  and  natives,  and  yield  about  800,000 
tons  per  annum.  Adm.  to  the  'Grande  Rccette'  of  the  works  by 
leave  of  M.  Bursaux,  the  manager. 

Interesting  walk  or  drive  to  the  (3  M.)  *Gorges  du  Seldja,  a  wild 
rocky  defile  (about  4Vg  M.  long)  between  Jebel  Seldja  and  Jebel  Alima 
(2559  ft.). 

For  the  new  railways  to  Henchir  Souatir,  Redeyef,  and  A'in-Moulares, 
see  p.  372. 


61.  Prom  Metlaoui  to  the  Djerid. 

Road  via  (85'/2  M.)  Tozeur  to  (51  M.)  Nefta  (railway  to  the  former 
under  construction).  A  carriage  may  be  hired  at  one  of  the  inns  at 
Metlaoui,  but  as  the  road  is  bad  a  mule  is  preferable.  It  is  best  to  ride 
direct  to  Tozeur  (carrying  provisions,  wine,  etc.).  Nefta  may  be  visited 
from  Tozeur,  El-Oudiane  best  on  the  way  back  from  Tozeur  to  Metlaoui 
(early  start  required). 

The  *Djerid  (Arabic  Belad  el-Jerid),  the  narrow  isthmus  between 
the  Chott  DjArid  (65-80  ft.  above  the  sea),  the  largest  salt-marsh  in  Bar- 
bary,  and  the  Cholt  Rharsa  (65  ft.  below  sea-level),  with  its  four  pic- 
turesque oases  of  Tozeur,  Nefta,  El-Oudiane,  and  El-Hamma  (du  Dj4rid), 
is  the  largest  date-palm  region  in  N.  Africa.  The  number  of  palm-trees 
is  estimated  at  about  a  million,  but  nearly  half  belong  to  the  'hakhana', 
an  unfruitful  species.  The  yield  of  dates  is  12'/2-i5,000  tons  annually, 
of  which  500  tons  only  are  of  the  transparent  variety.  They  are  exported 
chiefly  via  Gafsa  and  Sfax.  The  mildness  of  the  climate  (p.  321)  adapts 
Tozeur  in  particular  for  winter  residence,  but  malaria  is  prevalent  in 
summer.  The  population  (about  30,000),  which  is  said  to  have  included 
scattered  remnants  of  Christian  communities  down  to  the  18th  cent.,  is 
chiefly  of  Berber  origin,  but  with  the  Arab  nature  fully  developed. 

Metlaoui,  see  above.  The  road  leads  to  the  S.W.,  through  an 
almost  bare  waste,  at  first  near  the  left  bank  of  the  Seldja  and  thru 
down  its  dry  bed. 

lS'/a  M.  Bordj Gumfla  (269  ft.;  no  drinking-water),  a  deserted 
caravanserai,  lies  at  the  junction  of  the  Gafsa  road,  beyond  the  in- 
flux of  the  Oued  Seldja  into  the  Oued  Melah  (p.  387).  We  then 
skirt  the  spurs  of  Jebel  Tarfaoui  (p.  388).  The  road  to  El-Oudiane 
(p.  388)  branches  to  the  left. 


TOZEUR.  91.  Route.     387 

Not  far  from  the  delta  of  the  Oued  Melah  we  near  the  Chott 
Rharsa,  which  in  the  hot  season  is  reduced  to  a  few  streamlets 
and  pools,  and  next  reach  the  E.  border  of  (30  jVI.)  the  oasis  of  El- 
Hamma  du  Djerid  (164  ft.;  Bordj,  quarters  1  fr.).  This  oasis, 
the  smallest  in  the  Djerid,  with  900  inhab.,  about  54,000  palms, 
and  s  few  olive-trees,  has  of  late  had  mud-walls  (tabias)  built  to 
shelter  it  from  sand-drift.  The  Hammdm,  a  piscina  in  a  kind  of 
palm-hut,  whose  water  (109°  Fahr.)  is  in  high  favour  with  the 
natives,  is  of  Roman  origin. 

The  road  crosses  the  (32'/2  M.)  downs  of  Drah  Tozeur  or  Drdht 
tu-Xadour  (269  ft.),  and  reveals  a  striking  *View  of  the  green 
oasis  of  Tozeur  and  the  glittering  surface  of  the  Chott  Djerid. 

35'/2  M.  Tozeur  (197  ft.;  Hot.  Bellevue,  R.  3,  B.  i/s,  dej.  or 
D.  3  fr.,  unpretending,  with  attentive  landlady;  pop.  10,000,  incl. 
65  Europeans),  the  ancient  Tusuros,  Arabic  Tuzer,  is  the  seat  of 
the  authorities  of  the  Djerid.  The  houses,  mostly  one-storied,  built 
of  crude  (tobs)  and  burned  bricks,  have  a  peculiar  geometric  orna- 
mentation in  brick  network,  which  differentiates  them  from  most 
of  those  in  the  other  oases.  The  Souks  are  less  important  than 
those  of  Nefta  (see  below).  Interesting  *Views  are  obtained  from 
the  minarets  of  the  Zaou'ia  Sidi  Abid  and  the  new  Sidi  Mouldi 
Mosque  (tickets  at  the  ContrSle  Civil). 

The  *Oasis,  which  is  hardly  inferior  to  that  of  Gafsa  in  richness  and 
variety  of  vegetation  (p.  885),  contains  about  420,000  palms.  Several  hours 
may  be  pleasantly  spent  in  riding  to  the  chief  points  of  interest.  Leaving 
the  town  we  ride  to  the  W.,  via  C'habia  village,  with  its  curious  huts 
of  palm-logs,  to  the  Bcis  el-Aioan,  where  194  springs  unite  to  form  the 
Oued  el-Mechta.  We  then  skirt  the  S.W.  border  of  the  oasis  and  descend 
via  the  villages  of  Zaou'iet-Sahraoui,  Djehim  or  Djem,  and  Abbas  or 
Abbes  to  the  kubba  of  Sidi  AH  Bou-Lifa,  near  the  shott,  with  a  huge 
and  venerable  lotus-tree.  Thence  we  should  return  to  Djehim  and  ride 
to  Bled  el-Adhar,  a  village  in  the  W.  half  of  the  oasis.  The  inter- 
esting mosque  here,  the  oldest  in  the  Djerid,  stands  on  the  site  of  a 
Roman  temple,  which  is  said  to  have  been  converted  into  a  Christian 
basilica.  The  *Mihrab,  or  prayer-niche,  unfortunately  whitewashed,  dating 
from  1194,  is  most  elegantly  decorated  in  stucco.  We  return  thence  to 
Tozeur,  where  the  half-dead  lotus-tree  and  the  little  mosques  present  a 
picturesque  bit  of  scenery. 

A  Road,  with  fine  points  of  view,  leads  from  Tozeur  to  the  W., 
via.  Chabia  (see  above)  and  along  the  S.  margin  of  the  dunes  of 
Koudiat  Own  el-Arouah  (558  ft.),  to  (51  M.)  Nefta  (200-300  ft.; 
Djerid  Hotel,  R.  3-4,  B.  1,  dej.  or  D.  3-4,  pens.  8-10  fr.,  quite  good; 
carr.  at  the  Khalifa's  only;  pop.  14,000,  incl.  many  Jews  but  only 
a  few  Europeans),  the  Roman  Aggarsel  Nepte.  The  houses  re- 
semble those  of  Tozeur  in  style,  but  blocks  of  gypsum  from  the 
vicinity  also  have  been  used  as  building-material.  We  are  struck 
with  the  great  number  of  small  mosques  and  zaouYas,  among  which 
is  the  zaouia  of  the  Kadria  (p.  361),  the  most  important  in  8.  Tu- 
nisia and  a  religious  house  of  the  Rahmania  order.  The  souks, 
which  are  much  patronized  by  the  Sahara  caravans,  offer  all  the 


388     Route  el.  EL-OUDIANE. 

products  of  the  Djerid,  such  as  white  frechias  (p.  385),  burnouses 
('djeridi'),  silk  haiks,  etc. 

Before  riding  through  the  *Oasis  (2-3  hrs. ;  mule  with  guide  3-4  fr.), 
the  finest  in  the  Djerid,  with  its  187,000  palms,  we  proceed  from  the 
souks  to  the  so-called  *Corbeille  (Arabic  Kasr  el-Ain,  'castle  of  the 
springs'),  a  grand  gorge  in  the  middle  of  the  town,  where  the  copious 
springs  (152,  it  is  said)  unite  to  form  a  brook.  We  then  ride  to  the  N.W., 
past  the  Zaou'ia  of  the  Kadria  (p.  387)  and  along  the  mud-walls  (p.  387), 
to  the  Parcelle  Forestiire  (fine  view),  or  to  the  Poste  Douanier,  another 
good  point  of  view.  We  then  return,  past  the  mosque  of  Sidi  Merzoug 
and  the  palm-garden  of  Ghitane  ech-Uhorfa,  to  the  Barrage,  a  Roman 
dam  below  the  (Jorbeille  (at  the  weir,  a  little  lower,  good  bathing-place), 
and  visit  the  elegant  kubba  of  Sidi  Bou-Ali,   in  the  heart  of  the  oasis. 

El-Oudiane,  the  eastmost  oasis  of  the  Djerid,  with  6000  inhab. 
distributed  among  six  villages,  lies  6J/4  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Tozeur 
and  3  M.  to  the  E.  of  El-Hamma  (p.  387),  on  the  slope  of  Jebel  Bou- 
Hellal  (624  ft.),  the  W.  offshoot  of  Jebcl  Tarfaoui  (1821  ft.).  This 
oasis,  4!/2  M.  long,  watered  by  a  number  of  small  springs,  possesses 
about  185,000  palms  and  25,000  olive-trees,  while  numerous  orange 
and  lemon  trees  add  a  special  charm.  The  chief  village  is  Degyach 
(180  ft.;  pop.  3000),  built  partly  of  stone.  Thence  we  ride  past 
Zaou'iet  el-Arab,  with  its  minaret  (fine  view),  and  Kriz,  on  the 
slope  of  Jebel  Nadour  (519  ft.),  to  the  walled  village  of  Cedadda 
(230  ft.).  At  Guebba,  a  village  adjoining  Kriz,  close  to  the  shott, 
are  some  Roman  ruins. 

The  Trik  el-Ondiania.  a  caravan  route  once  used  by  the  Romans 
but  sometimes  impassable  after  heavy  winter  rains,  leads  from  Kriz  across 
the  Chott  Djerid,  to  the  S.E.,  to  the  C'a'idat  du  Nefzaova,  a  part  of  the 
S.  Territories  (p.  390)  between  the  shott  and  the  Erg  Oriental  (p.  285). 
The  first  oasis  beyond  the  salt-marshes  is  (30i/2  M.)  Debabcha,  on  the 
peninsula  of  that  name.  43  M.  Telmine,  the  ancient  Ttirris  Tamaleni, 
was  the  westmost  frontier-fortress  on  the  Limes  Tripolitanus  (p.  412). 
47  M.  Kebilli  (quarters  in  the  Bordj),  the  ancient  Vepillium  (?),  is  now 
the  chief  town  in  the  Nefzaoua,  with  5000  inhab.,  a  market  well  attended 
by  the  Sahara  caravans,  and  the  finest  palm-oasis  in  this  region. 

Roads  lead  from  Kebilli:  (1)  To  the  N.E.,  through  the  waterless  sandy 
waste  between  the  Chott  el-Fedjedj  (p.  389)  and  Jebel  Tebaga  (1608  ft.)  and 
past  (9'/2M.)  Limagues  and  (34'/._.M.)  Oglet  Nakhla,  to  (53  M.)  El-Hamma 
(quarters  at  the  Bordj),  the  ancient  Aquae  Tacapitanae,  with  hot  springs 
(118°Fahr.)  and  a  charming  palm-oasis;  then  past  the  S.  base  of  Jebel  Dissa 
(492  ft.;  Poste  Optique)  to  (74  M.)  Gabes  (p.  389).  — (2)  To  the  S.E.,  through 
the  desert  on  the  fc>.  side  of  Jebel  Tebaga  (see  above),  past  Henchir  Bou- 
Garfa  and  Tamezred,  to  (about  68  M.)  Matmata-Kebira  (p.  391). 


62.  Prom  (Sfax)  Grai'ba  to  Djerba  via  Gabes 
and  Medenine. 

High  Road  from  Gro'iba  via  (52  M.)  Gabes  to  (101  M.)  Medenine. 
Diligence  to  Gabes,  in  9  hrs.  (starting  at  11.30  p.m.,  returning  at  5.15  p.m.); 
thence  to  Medenine,  in  8  hrs.  Roads  from  Medenine  to  the  two  starting- 
points  for  the  island  of  Djerba:  one  via  (3772  M.)  Zarzis  to  (52  M.)  Marsa 
el-Kantara;  the  other  via  (17V2  M.)  Djorf  Bou-Grara  to  (30  M.)  Marsa 
el-Adjim.  — Roads  from  El-Kantara  (15i/2  M.)  and  El-Adjim  (14  M.)  to 
Houmt-Souk. 


GABES.  «•  Rout*     389 

A  motor-car  should  be  hired  from  Sfax  (p.  380)  to  Me'denine,  or  all 
the  way  to  Marsa  el-Kan tara.  Or  we  may  drive  thither  from  Qrai'ba, 
by  carr.  previously  ordered  from  Gabes.  At  Medenine  it  is  advisable  to 
telegraph  to  Houmt-Souk  for  a  carr.  to  meet  the  traveller  at  El-Kantara 
(or  El-Adjim,  as  the  case  may  be).  —  Houmt-Souk  is  a  steamboat-station 
between  Tunis  and  Tripoli  (coinp.  K.  64). 

From  Sfax  to  Gra'iba  (3972  M.;  railway  in  ca.  2  hrs.;  fares 
7  fr.  5,  5  fr.  35,  3  fr.  80  c),  see  p.  383. 

The  Road  leads  to  the  S.  from  Gra'iba  to  (5'/2  M.)  Arehlchina, 
a  caravanserai  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Sour  Kenis  Bay,  where  we 
join  the  main  road  from  Sfax.  It  then  traverses  a  desolate  sandy 
waste  on  theW.  side  of  the  Gulf  of  Gabes  (p.  405),  inland  from 
the  little  seaport  Skira  (for  the  alfa  trade). 

On  the  (28  M.)  Ouetl  Akarit  we  enter  the  province  of  Arad. 
Between  Jebel  Roumana  (564  ft.)  and  Jebel  Dissa  (p.  388) ,  off- 
shoots of  the  hills  around  the  shott  region,  extends  the  flat  Isthmus 
of  Gabes,  121f2  M.  broad,  bridging  the  space  between  the  bay  and 
the  Chott  el-Fedjedj  (76  ft.  above  sea-level),  the  E.  continuation 
of  the  Chott  Djerid  (p.  386).  In  1873  Ferd.  de  Lesseps  (p.  437) 
suggested  that,  by  cutting  a  canal  through  the  isthmus,  the  whole 
of  the  shotts,  as  far  as  the  Chott  Melrir  (p.  284),  might  be  con- 
verted into  a  great  inland  sea;  but  several  of  them  lie  much  above 
the  sea-level. 

34  M.  Domalne  de  Oued-Melah,  an  olive  and  palm  oasis 
(10,000  palms),  on  a  brook  generally  dry,  is  partly  watered  by  the 
oldest  artesian  wells  in  Tunisia  (1885). 

To  the  right,  a  little  off  the  road  to  Gai'sa  (p.  383),  lie  the  palm- 
oases  of  Oudref  and  El-Methouia,  and  to  the  left  Ghennouch. 
Near  the  (49 •/,  M.)  poor  oasis  of  Bou-Chemma  we  join  the  road 
from  Kebilli  (p.  388). 

Our  road  leads  through  the  palm-oasis  of  Gabes  (p.  390)  and 
past  Djara  (p.  390)  to  (52  M.)  Gabis-Port. 


Gabes.  _  Arrival  by  Sea  (conip.  B.  64).  The  steamers  anchor  in 
the  open  roads  (at  low-tide  over  */«  M.  from  the  fishing-boat  harbour). 
Landing  or  embarking,  especially  in  summer,  in  N.E.  or  E.  wind,  is 
often  impossible. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  324;  sometimes  crowded  with  motorists  in  spring). 
Grand- Hotel ,  llut.  des  Voyageurs,  both  at  Gabes-Port,  »/j  M.  from  the 
pier. 

Cab  from  the  pier  to  GabeR-Port  40  c.  (for  several  pers.  20  c.  each); 
one  hour  l>/9  fr.,  each  addit.  '/*  hr.  25  c. ;  day  of  10  hrs.  10-12  fr. ;  carr. 
and  four  horses,  for  long  excursions,  20  fr.  a  day. 

British  Consular  Aobht,  C.  Valleja. 

Gabes  or  Gabis  (Europ.  pop.  900,  mostly  Italians  and  Maltese; 
total,  incl.  oasis,  10,200),  the  ancient  Tacape,  the  chief  harbour  on 
the  stretch  of  coast  called  Emporia  by  the  Greeks  and  a  rival  of 
Leptis  Magna  and  Tripoli  (conip.  p.  407),  is  now  the  capital  of  the 


390     Route  62.  GABES.  From  Sfax 

Arad  and  headquarters  for  the  S.  Territories,  which  are  still  under 
military  rule.  It  is  the  only  harbour  of  importance  on  the  S.  coast 
of  the  Gulf  of  Gabes  (p.  405).  The  chief  exports  are  the  sponges 
of  the  bay,  alfa  or  esparto  grass,  dates,  and  woollen  goods.  In 
the  war  annals  of  1S81  the  bombardment  of  Gabes  from  Menzel 
(see  below)  and  the  protracted  resistance  of  the  inland  tribes  are 
memorable.  It  was  here  that  Gen.  Logerot  intercepted  the  tribes 
of  the  E.  coast  who  tried  to  pass  through  the  Arad  to  Tripolitania. 

The  small  Harbour,  for  fishing-boats  only,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Oued  Gabes,  protected  by  two  stone  piers,  is  exposed  to  every 
wind  and  choked  with  sand. 

To  the  N.W.  of  the  estuary,  on  the  border  of  the  oasis,  which 
is  here  protected  from  sand-drift  by  palisades,  rise  low  dunes;  to 
the  S.E.,  near  the  lighthouse,  is  an  admirable  bathing-beach. 

The  modern  Gabes-Port,  adjoining  the  Camp  Militaire,  con- 
tains no  attraction  except  the  garden  of  the  Cercle  Militaire.  It 
is  garrisoned  with  160  native  horsemen  (Spahis  or  Cavaliers  du 
Maghzen),  who  guard  the  Tripolitanian  frontier  of  the  S.  Territories. 
The  tradespeople  are  mostly  Jews. 

Beyond  Gabes-Port,  also  on  the  barren  right  bank  of  the  river, 
lie  the  large  Berber  villages,  partly  built  of  Roman  materials,  of 
Djara  {Grand- Djara;  pop.  3500)  and  Menzel  (pop.  4500,  incl. 
about  1000  Jews).  The  market-place  of  Djara,  a  square  enclosed 
by  primitive  arcades  with  shops,  is  frequented  chiefly  by  the 
S.  Algerian  caravans. 

Almost  the  only  sight  of  Gabes  is  the  beautiful,  but  in  summer 
malarious  *Oasis,  once  somewhat  over-praised  by  Pliny,  which 
extends  33/4  M.  up  the  left  bank  of  the  river  and  is  1-1 V4  M.  in 
breadth.  Among  the  remarkably  tall  and  well-grown  date-palms 
(about  200,000)  are  many  bananas  and  other  fruit-trees.  The  river 
and  the  small  channels,  often  enlivened  by  women  washing  or  car- 
rying water,  are  crossed  by  numerous  bridges  of  palm-logs.  A  walk 
or  ride  to  the  most  interesting  spots  takes  3-4  hrs.  (mule  2-3  fr.). 
From  Menzel  we  go  upstream  to  the  Barrage  du  Sidi  el- Bey 
(1894),  and  past  the  remains  of  a  Roman  Dam,  built  of  huge 
blocks,  to  the  Rds  el- Oued  (213  ft.),  a  hill  at  the  W.  end  of  the 
oasis  often  covered  with  clouds  of  dust,  where  the  principal  feeders 
of  the  river,  30  in  all,  form  a  number  of  waterfalls.  Turning  here, 
we  follow  the  largest  irrigation-conduit  to  the  village  of  Chenini 
(pop.  1000)  and  cross  the  Sfax  road  (p.  382)  to  the  N.W.  half  of 
the  oasis,  where  many  of  the  palms  are  overgrown  with  vines. 

The  *Monts  des  Kgout  (p.  320),  bordering  the  Sahara  on  the  S. 
Bide  of  the  Arad,  are  well  worth  visiting  from  Gabes  or  from  Medenine 
(p.  391;  carr.  tariff,  see  p.  389;  an  ample  supply  of  food  and  rugs  advis- 
able; cornp.  also  p.  278).  These  barren  hills  culminate  in  Kef  Toudjane 
(p.  391),  which  is  almost  everywhere  conspicuous  from  the  coast,  and  Jebel 
Sm-erten  (each  about  2100  ft.),  and  in  Kef  Dcmeur  or  Jebel  Demmer  (2460  ft.). 


to  Djerba.  MEDENINE.  <?*•  Route.     391 

The  inhabitants,  the  Troglodytes  of  antiquity  (see  p.  320),  are,  in  the 
N.W.  part,  the  Matmatas,  on  the  plateau  of  that  name,  and,  in  the  S., 
members  of  the  Ouerghamma  League,  Berber  tribes  which  for  centuries 
withstood  the  attacks  of  the  Arabs  and  the  predatory  Sahara  nomads. 
They  still  often  live  in  caverns,  with  a  court  resembling  a  shaft  as  the 
centre  of  their  dwelling,  and  cavities  used  as  side-rooms  or  offices.  The 
gardens,  laboriously  irrigated  by  dams  and  cisterns,  yield  olives,  dates, 
and  I'l:.-,:  in  the  valleys  grain,  chiefly  barley,  and  vegetables  are  cultivated. 
The  Matmatas  often  go  to  Tunis  as  porters  or  artisans  but  always  return 
home  in  their  old  age. 

A  glimpse  of  this  region  is  obtained  by  driving  from  G-abes  to  (28  M.) 
Matmata-Kebira  or  Kalaa-Matmata  (1838  ft.;  p.  388;  quarters  at  the 
Kaid's),  on  the  Matmata  plateau,  whence  an  excursion  (on  mule-back) 
should ,  if  possible ,  be  taken  to  the  picturesque  rock-village  of  Hccdege. 
A  new  but  very  hilly  road  leads  from  Matmata-Kebira  through  the  moun- 
tains via  (12'/o  M.)  toudjane  (919  ft.),  a  village  grandly  situated  on  the 
slopes  of  Kef  Toudjane  (2090  ft.),  direct  to  (37Vg  M.)  Metameur  (see 
below). 


Tlif  Medenine  Ruaii  (diligence,  see  p.  388)  now  leads  to  the 
S.E.  through  a  steppe-like  hill-country,  fringing  the  Monts  des 
Ksour  (p.  390)  and  intersected  by  many  valleys,  passing  the  small 
oases  of  Menara  (200  ft.)  and  (55  M.)  Teboulhou  (artesiau  wells; 
much  olive-culture).  Next  come  the  valleys  of  the  Oued  Merzig  and 
Oued  Ferd,  with  the  small  oasis  of  (56  M.)  Keiena. 

74  M.  Mareth  (Bordj),  a  large  palm-oasis  on  the  Oued  Mareth. 
We  then  cross  the  Oued  Zigraou  to  (77  M.)  Aram.  Beyond  the 
spurs  of  Jebel  Touati  and  Jebel  Souinia  rises  the  main  range  of 
the  Monts  des  Ksour  (p.  390). 

Beyond  the  valleys  of  the  Oued  Zeus  and  Oued  Hallouf  the 
road  rounds  Jebel  Tadjera  (988  ft.;  Poste  Optiqne).  971/,  M. 
Metameur,  formerly  a  'camp  militaire',  on  the  brook  of  that  name, 
below  the  small  oasis  and  (J/2  hr.)  Berber  village  of  Ksar  Meta- 
meur (391  ft.),  whose  storehouses  (rhorfas),  with  keel-arched  vault- 
ing, recall  very  ancient  buildings  in  Asia  Minor. 

101  M.  Medenine  (361  ft.;  Medenine  H6tel,  R.  21/.,,  B.  l/3, 
ilej.  2'/o  fr-j  good;  pop.  1000,  inch  100  Europeans),  capital  of  the 
Ouerghamma  (see  above),  the  league  of  the  Berber  tribes  Khezour, 
Touazine,  Ouderna,  and  Accara.  The  high-lying  Camp  Militaire, 
with  its  garrison  of  Spahis  (p.  390)  and  Infanterie  Legere  d'Afrique 
('Joyeux'),  is  the  largest  on  the  Tripolitanian  frontier. 

The  deserted  and  ruinous  *Ksar,  in  a  small  palm-oasis,  con- 
sists of  a  great  number  of  the  old  storehouses  of  the  League,  some 
of  them  in  four  or  five  stories,  now  replaced  by  retbas  or  rabtaa 
(p.  338).  They  are  dug  deeply  in  the  hill-side,  and  are  accessible 
only  by  stairs  of  mud  or  stepping-stones. 

Travellers  used  to  privations  and  content  with  such  poor  quarters 
as  the  natives  can  offer  may,  after  consulting  the  military  authorities 
at  Medenine,  visit  the  S.  part  of  the  Monts  des  Ksour  (p.  890).  The  best 
centre  there  is  (34  M.)  Tatahouine,  the  seat  of  the  military  and  civil 


392     Route  62.  GIGHTIS.  From  Sfax 

authorities,  with  an  important  market,  well  attended  by  caravans  on 
their  way  from  the  Sahara  and  the  Sudan  by  way  of  Gbadames  in  Tri- 
politania  (p.  285).  The  chief  villages  of  the  cave-dwellers  (Ksfir)  near 
this  are  Tlalet,  formerly  Talalati,  a  frontier-fortress  on  the  Limes  Tri- 
politanus  (p.  412),  Beni-Barca,  *Chenini,  and  *Douirat  (2090  ft.). 

The  Zarzis  Road  (371/2  M.)  descends  to  the  E.  from  Medenine 
through  the  sandy  coast- plain  to  (15V2  M.)  Ain-Mader,  near  the 
saline  marshes  of  that  name  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Mer  de  Bou-Grara 
(see  below),  and  then  traverses  the  hill-region  of  the  Accara  tribe 
(p.  391),  between  the  sea  and  the  large  Sebkha  el-Melah. 

To  the  left,  a  little  off  the  road,  4  M.  from  Zarzis,  are  the  ruins 
of  the  little  Roman  town  of  Zita,  now  Zian,  where  the  small 
forum  is  still  enclosed  with  the  remains  of  its  colonnade. 

37V2  M.  (or  from  Gra'i'ba  138,/2  M.)  Zarzis  (accommodation  at 
theBordj),  on  the  site  of  the  Roman  seaport  Gergis,  amidst  extensive 
olive-groves  famed  for  their  oil,  has  two  artesian  wells  and  a  small 
harbour  for  fishing-boats.    Important  sponge-fishery. 

A  road  (the  chief  route  to  the  island  of  Djerba)  leads  to  the 
N.W.  from  Zarzis  across  the  Pdninsule  de  Zarzis  or  des  Accara 
to  (14^2  M.,  or,  from  Grai'ba,  153  M.)  Marsa  el-Kantara,  a  vil- 
lage near  the  Rds  Marmor,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  E.  entrance 
(V/t  M.  wide)  to  the  Mer  de  Bou-Grara  (see  below).  The  dilapidat- 
ed Roman  dam  which  crosses  the  strait  here  to  El-Kantara  is  still 
used  by  camel-caravans  at  low  tide  (6'/2  ft.  below  high-water),  but 
it  is  better  to  cross  by  fishing-boat.  From  El-Kantara  to  Huumt- 
Suuk,  see  p.  394. 

The  Djorf  Bou-Grara  Route  to  Djerba  is  shorter  (30  M.)  and 
will  repay  antiquarians.  The  rough  road  (mule  preferable  to  carr.) 
leads  from  Medenine  to  the  N.E.  via.  Bir  Saddou,  and  then  past 
some  small  salt-marshes,  to  the  Mer  de  Bou-Grara,  a  large  land- 
locked bay  between  the  mainland  and  the  island  of  Djerba,  acces- 
sible for  large  vessels  by  the  Canal  d'Adjim  only  (not  quite  1  M. 
across;  see  p.  393).  This  bay,  in  which  fish  abound,  and  Lake 
Bizerta  (p.  352)  are  the  best  natural  harbours  in  Tunisia. 

1772M.  (or  from  Gralba  11872M.)  Djorf  Bou-Grara  (no 
inn)  is  near  the  site  of  *Gigldis,  a  small  Punic-Roman  seaport, 
which  attained  great  prosperity  in  the  2nd  cent.  A.D.  The  harbour, 
which  was  always  shallow  at  low  tide,  is  now  entirely  silted  up. 
Excavations  begun  in  1896  have  revealed  the  ruins  of  curiously 
cramped  and  irregular  streets,  with  various  public  buildings,  villas 
remarkable  for  their  coloured  incrustation  and  rich  mosaics,  and 
Byzantine  houses  built  of  Roman  materials. 

A  broad  street  ascends  from  the  harbour  to  the  Macellum,  with  foun- 
tain and  exedra  similar  to  those  at  Timgad  (p.  295).  The  small  Foriim, 
66  by  44  yds.,  has  on  the  E.  side  an  archway,  the  Curia,  and  the  Market 
Basilica,  with  the  tribunal,  while  the  Severus  Arch  on  the  N.  side  formed 
a  lateral  entrance.  On  the  S.  side  rises  the  Capitol  (see  p.  288),  in  the 
style  of  the  capitol  ox  'Jupiter  temple'  at  Pompeii. 


to  Djerba.  DJERBA.  62.  Route.     393 

The  Temple  of  Mercury,  to  the  S.  of  the  forum,  has  columns  in  its 
peribolos,  or  outer  wall,  with  curious  capitals  adorned  with  cables,  in 
allusion  to  the  occupation  of  the  fouuder.  The  building  is  curiously 
planned,  having  several  small  rooms  or  'sacristies'  behind  the  cella;  it 
is  adjoined  by  a  chapel  of  Mercury  and  one  of  Minerva. 

A  Temple  ofIsis(?),  a  Temple  of  Hygiea,  the  Thermae,  and  a  late- 
Punic  Cemetery  also  have  been  unearthed. 

If  a  fishing-boat  is  available  at  Djorf  Bou-Grara  we  may  sail 
direct  to  Adjim  (p.  394;  13y2  M.  in  ca.  ll/2  hr.).  If  not,  we  must 
go  127a  M.  farther  to  (30  M.,  or  from  Graiba,  131  M.)  Marsa  el- 
Adjim  at  the  Rds  el- Djorf,  the  N.  point  of  the  peninsula,  opposite 
Adjim  (Wg  M.  distant;  boat  in  »/4  hr.). 


The  Island  of  Djerba  (highest  point  118  ft.),  17y2by  14M., 
is  the  largest  on  the  N.  African  coast.  From  the  lotus-tree  (Zi- 
zyphus  Lotus;  Arabic  nebga,  Fr.  jujubier),  which  thrives  here, 
Homer  called  it  the  island  of  the  Lotophagi.  It  was  later  named 
Meninx  and  was  the  birthplace  of  the  Roman  emperors  Vibius 
Gallus  and  Volusiauus  (251-3).  It  is  now  one  of  the  most  fertile 
and  prosperous  regions  in  Tunisia.  Secure  in  their  insularity 
against  the  attacks  of  the  nomadic  Arabs,  the  inhabitants  (about 
40,000),  mostly  Berbers  of  the  Kharijite  sect  (p.  323),  have  retained 
their  old  language  and  customs.  They  vie  in  industry  with  their 
kinsmen  the  Mozabitcs  (p.  216)  and  go  forth  as  traders  to  all  the 
seaports  of  the  Orient.  Agriculture  also  thrives.  There  are  1,300,000 
date-palms,  500,000  olive-trees,  and  as  many  orange,  lemon,  and 
peach  trees;  early  vegetables  too  are  now  largely  grown.  The 
sponge,  polypus,  and  other  fisheries  and  the  oyster-beds  in  the 
Canal  d  Adjim  (p.  392)  are  very  productive. 

Djerba  has  four  harbours,  Houmt-Souk,  Adjim,  El- Kant ar a, 
and  Aghir.  The  only  towns  are  Houmt-Souk,  Hara-Keblra,  and 
Hara-Serlra;  the  villages  are  merely  local  markets  for  their 
districts.  The  countless  little  mosques  have  white  domes  like  most 
of  the  houses,  but  are  distinguished  by  conspicuous  slender  mina- 
rets of  the  Turkish  type,  resembling  lighthouses.  The  farm-houses 
(menzel)  scattered  throughout  the  island  often  have  a  castellated 
appearance.  In  the  entire  absence  of  brooks  the  soil  is  irrigated 
from  cisterns  aud  wells,  among  which  are  two  very  copious  artesian 
wells.  The  winter  climate  (p.  321)  is  the  mildest  in  Tunisia,  but 
gales  are  frequent.  For  excursions  there  are  few  carriages  avail- 
able (20  fr.  per  day) ;  the  usual  conveyance  is  an  araba  or  country- 
cart;  for  a  mule  the  charge  is  4-5,  for  a  donkey  3  fr.  per  day.  The 
tourist  should  beware  of  the  countless  scorpions,  especially  in  the 
wanner  season. 

Houmt-Souk  (Hot.  de  l'Oasis  or  Crolet;  Hot.  de  France;  Brit, 
cons,  agent;  pop.  5900,  incl.  560  Maltese,  French,  Italians,  and 
Greeks),  the  capital  of  the  island,  lies  on  the  sandy  N.  coast,  1j2  M. 


394     Route  62  DJERBA. 

from  the  sea  and  5  M.  from  the  anchorage  of  the  steamers  (conip. 
p.  405).  The  dilapidated  Bordj  el-Kebir  on  the  shore  recalls  the 
time  of  the  Spanish  domination.  Near  it  is  the  Christian  Cemetery, 
where  repose  the  bones,  collected  in  1848,  of  the  18,000  Spaniards 
who  were  massacred  here  in  1560  after  the  naval  victory  of  Dragut 
(p.  370)  and  Ochiali  Pasha,  and  yielded  trophies  for  the  ghastly 
Bordj  er-Rious  (tower  of  skulls). 

In  the  interesting  Souks  (Mon.  and  Thurs.)  are  seen  all  the 
products  of  the  island.  Among  the  numerous  religious  buildings 
may  be  named  the  Mosquee  el-Gheriba  and  the  Mosquee  des  Turcs. 

A  road  leads  to  the  S.  from  Houmt-Souk  to  the  Jewish  villages  of 
(3/4  M.)  Eara-Kebira  (pop.  3500)  and  (4>/2  M.)  Hara-Serira  or  Eara- 
Sghira  (pop.  1500),  where  numerous  goldsmiths  make  silver-gilt  trinkets 
of  antique  and  Byzantine  patterns,  with  enamel  and  jewels  (mostly  imit- 
ation). The  Gheriba,  the  synagogue  of  Hara-Serira,  where,  according  to 
an  old  tradition,  one  of  the  tables  of  the  law  of  Moses  was  once  found, 
is  a  great  resort  of  Jewish  pilgrims  from  S.  Tunisia  and  Tripolitania, 
and  is  much  revered  by  Moslems  and  Catholics  also.  —  From  Hara-Serira 
the  road  leads  to  the  S.  to  (14V2  M.)  Guallala,  the  centre  of  the  pottery- 
manufacture  carried  on  in  Djerba  ever  since  ancient  times  (oil-jars,  porous 
water-jugs,  vases,  etc.).  Near  it  is  the  hill  of  Dahrat-Guallala,  which 
yields  the  clay. 

A  road  leads  to  the  S.E.  from  Houmt-Souk  via  Hara-Kebira  (see  above) 
and  (IOV3  M.)  Cedouikeche  (potteries)  to  (15V2  M.)  El-Kantara,  the  sea- 
port for  Zarzis  (p.  392),  not  far  from  the  extensive  but  unimportant  ruins 
of  Meninx,  the  ancient  capital  of  the  island. — Another  road  leads  to  the 
S.W.  to  (14  M.)  Adjiin,  a  rising  little  seaport  and  market  (Wed.),  with 
an  artesian  well  760  ft.  deep.  To  Djorf  Bou-Grara  (and  Gightis),  see 
p.  392. 

Near  the  E.  coast  of  the  island,  on  the  roads  to  the  Rds  Taguermess 
(p.  406)  and  the  small  summer  harbour  of  Aghir,  lie  the  villages  of 
Midouue  (Frid.  market)  and  Muhboubine,  with  many  villas  of  the 
merchants  of  Houmt-Souk,  situated  amid  palm  and  olive  groves  and  charm- 
ing *Fruit  Gardens,  where  the  oranges  and  lemons  blossom  in  March.  On 
the  road  to  Midoune  is  the  Mausolie  de  Borgho,  the  only  intact  Roman 
monument  in  the  island. 


Vni.  SEA  EOUTES  IN  THE  EASTERN 
MEDITERRANEAN'. 


Route  Page 

63.  From  Tunis  to  Malta  (Syracuse) 396 

64.  From  Tunis  to  Syracuse  via  Sfax,  Tripoli,  and  Malta     404 

65.  From  Tripoli  to  Alexandria  via  Benghazi  and  Derna     412 

Leptis  Magna,  412.  —  The  Cyrenaica,  413. 

66.  From  Tripoli  to  Constantinople  via.  Derna  and  Crete     415 

67.  From  (Marseilles,  Genoa)  Naples  to  Alexandria  and 

Port  Said 417 

68.  From  Venice  or  Trieste  to  Alexandria  and  Port  Said 

via  Brindisi .     .     418 

Mirainar.    Divafia,  427. 

69.  Alexandria 431 

70.  Port  Said 436 

71.  From  Alexandria  or  Port  Said  to  Cairo 437 

Cairo 439 

History,  443.  —  History  of  Art,  444.  —  a.  Northern  Quar- 
ters (The  Ezbekiyeh  Garden,  the  Muski,  Gamia  el-Azhar, 
Muristan  Kalaun,  Gamia  el-Muaiyad),  445.  — b.  The  S.E. 
Quarters  (The  Arab  Museum,  Gamia  Ibn  Tulitn,  Gamia 
Sultan  Hasan,  Citadel,  Gamia  en-Nasir,  Gamia  Mohammed 
Ali),  450.  —  c.  The  New  Town  (The  Ismailiyeh  and  Tew- 
flklyeh  Quarters,  Egyptian  Museum,  Gezireh),  454. — 
d.  Environs  (The  Mameluke  Tombs,  Heliopolis  Oasis, 
Heliopolis-On,  Old  Cairo,  Pyramids  of  Gizeh,  Memphis, 
and  Sakkara),  458. 

72.  From  Alexandria  or  Port  Said  to  Beirut  (Smyrna, 

Constantinople)  via  Jaffa 466 

From  Haifa  to  Nabulus;  to  Damascus  visl  Derat  (Naza- 
reth, Tabariya),  468. 

73.  From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem      ....  ....     470 

From  Jerusalem  to  Bethlehem,  480. 

74.  Beirut.  Excursion  to  Damascus 481 

75.  From  Beirut  to  Smyrna  (and  Constantinople)       .  489 

76.  From  Alexandria  to  Athens  and  Smyrna  (and  Con- 

stantinople)       491 

77.  From  (Marseilles,  Genoa)  Naples  to  Athens  (and  Con- 

stantinople)        493 

78.  From  Venice  or  Trieste  to  Athens  (and  Constantin- 

ople) via  Brindisi  and  Patras 496 

Corfu,  496. 

Baedeker's  Mediterranean.  26 


396  THE  EASTERN  MEDITERRANEAN. 


Route  Page 

79.  Athens 502 

History,  505.  —  a.  Walk  from  the  Palace  round  the  S.  side 
of  the  Acropolis  (The  Olyinpieion,  Stadion,  Monument 
of  Lysikrates,  Theatre  of  Dionysos,  Odeion,  Areopagus), 
508. — b.  The  Acropolis  (The  Temple  of  Nike,  Propylsea, 
Parthenon,  Erechtheion,  Acropolis  Museum),  512. — 
c.  Walk  from  the  Palace  to  the  Theseion.  Dipylon. 
Hill  of  the  Nymphs.  Pnyx.  Monument  of  Philopappos, 
520.  —  d.  The  Modern  Quarters  (Academy  of  Science, 
University,  Library,  Polytechnic  Institute),  525.  —  e.  The 
National  Archaeological  Museum,  526.  —  f.  Walks  (Lyka- 
bettos,  Kolonos,  New  Phaleron),  528. 

80.  From  Athens  via  Smyrna  to  Constantinople     .     .     .     529 

81.  Constantinople 536 

History,  541.  —  a.  Galata  and  Pera  (Galata  Tower,  Petits 
Champs,  Dolma  Bagcheh  Palace,  Top  Haneh),  542. — 
b.  Stambul  (Ycni  Valideh  Jami,  Seraglio,  New  Museum, 
Chinili  Kiosque,  Aya  Sophia,  Mosque  of  Ahmed  I., 
Great  Bazaar,  Mosques  of  Bayazid,  Suleiman  the  Great, 
and  Mohammed  II.,  Land-Wall),  545.  —  c.  The  Golden 
Horn  (Eyub,  Sweet  Waters),  555.  —  d.  Scutari,  556.— 
e.  The  Bosporus,  557. 


63.  From  Tunis  to  Malta  (Syracuse). 

258  M.  Steamers  (agents  at  Tunis,  see  p.  331;  at  Malta,  see  p.  400). 
1.  Oomp.  Gen.  Transatlantique  (Marseilles,  Tunis,  and  Malta  line,  R.  21) 
on  Wed.  (returning  Thurs.)  afternoon,  in  18  hrs.  (55  or  40  fr.). — 2.  Hun- 
garian Adria  (R.  22)  once  a  month  (cabin,  without  food,  25  fr.).— Other 
steamers  calling  at  Malta  (P.  &  0.,  German  Levant  cargo-boats,  etc.)  are 
mostly  bound  for  distant  ports.  Embarking  and  landing,  comp.  jj.  399. — 
English  money  is  the  currency  at  Malta,  but  French  and  Italian  gold 
are  in  general  use. 

The  steamers  follow  the  Palermo  and  Naples  course  (comp. 
R.  26)  as  far  as  Cape  Bon,  and  then  steer  to  the  E.S.E.  into  the 
Straits  of  Pantelleria  or  Sicilian  Straits  (p.  xxx). 

The  island  of  Pantelleria  (p.  154),  which  is  sighted  in  clear 
weather  off  Cape  Bon,  is  passed  by  the  French  steamers  at  night. 
The  lighthouse  of  Spadillo  (68  ft.),  on  the  N.  E.  point  of  the  island, 
long  remains  in  sight.  The  distant  Linosa  (610  ft. ;  ancient 
j3£thusa),  with  a  lighthouse,  is  visible  only  in  very  clear  weather. 

In  the  early  morning  the  abrupt  coasts  of  Gozo  (p.  403)  and 
Malta  (p.  399)  appear  in  the  distance.  The  vessel  rounds  the  island 
of  Gozo,  whose  lighthouse  on  the  Giurdan  Hill  (499  ft.)  on  the 
N.  side,  is  visible  for  27  M. 

Beyond  Rds  el-Kala,  the  E.  point  of  Gozo,  we  sight  the  narrow 
Straits  of  Flieghi  or  Comino  Channels,  lying  between  Gozo  and 
Malta,  and  named  after  the  island  of  Comino  (p.  397). 


Geography.  MALTA.  63.  Route.     397 

On  the  N.  E.  coast  of  Malta,  above  which  soon  appears  the  huge 
dome  of  Musta  (p.  403),  we  pass  the  Baia  di  Melleha  or  Mellieha 
Bay,  with  the  pilgrims'  resort  of  that  name  in  the  background, 
the  St.  Paul's  Bay  (p.  403),  and  Salina  Bay,  with  its  salt- 
works. 

Next  appear  the  village  of  St.  Julian  (San  Giuliano),  on  the 
bay  of  that  name,  and  the  town  of  Sliema  (p.  400).  We  then  pass 
Fort  TignC  (p.  401 ;  lighthouse)  and  the  entrance  to  the  Marsa- 
muscetto  Harbour  (p.  399).  The  entrance  of  the  Grand  Harbour, 
the  chief  harbour  of  Valletta,  between  Fort  St.  Elmo  (p.  400; 
lighthouse)  and  Fort  Ricasoli  (p.  401;  lighthouse),  is  protected 
against  N.E.  gales  by  the  new  St.  Elmo  and  Ricasoli  Break- 
waters.— Arrival,  comp.  p.  399. 


The  Maltese  Islands  (hole  Maltesi),  composed  of  tertiary 
rock  formation,  were  considered  by  earlier  geographers  to  belong 
to  Africa,  but  are  now  assigned  to  Europe.  They  lie  halfway  between 
the  Straits  of  Gibraltar  and  the  Suez  Canal,  on  the  chief  route 
from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Levant  and  to  India.  The  principal  is- 
land is  Malta,  with  the  capital  Valletta  and  many  small  towns  and 
villages  (casal).  It  is  20  M.  long,  93/4  M.  broad,  and,  at  its  culmin- 
ating point,  847  ft.  in  height.  The  island  is  much  over-peopled. 
So  is  the  island  of  Gozo  (600  ft.),  which  measures  10V4  by  51/i  M. ; 
but  Comino  (248  ft.),  llji  by  1  M.,  is  uninhabited.  The  mean 
temperature  of  the  year  is  661/2°  Eahr.,  of  January  531/2°  (almost 
the  same  as  that  of  Djerba  and  Tripoli),  of  August  791/2°.  Gales, 
particularly  the  dreaded  N.E.  wind  (Gregale),  often  make  a  winter 
residence  in  Malta  uncomfortable,  while  the  Sirocco  (p.  321),  here 
very  moist,  is  specially  trying  in  autumn. 

At  first  sight  the  islands  seem  destitute  of  vegetation,  the  fields 
and  gardens  being  enclosed  by  lofty  walls,  while  the  growth  of 
trees  is  prevented  by  the  violent  winds.  By  means  of  laborious 
tilling  and  artificial  irrigation  about  a  third  of  the  area  of  the 
islands  lias  been  converted  into  luxuriantly  fertile  arable  land. 
After  the  corn  and  hay  harvest  in  May  and  June  the  land  is  sown 
a  second  time,  mostly  with  cotton,  afterwards  manufactured  in  the 
interior.  Among  other  valuable  products  are  early  vegetables  and 
potatoes,  which  yield  two  crops  in  the  year.  The  oranges  are  ex- 
cellent but  other  fruits  are  scarce.  Cattle,  poultry,  and  eggs  are 
largely  imported  from  Turkey,  Tunisia,  Tripolitania,  and  Barca 
(p.  412). 

The  population  of  Malta  (96'/2  sq.  M.),  is  ca.  184,000,  apart 
from  the  garrison  (nearly  9000  soldiers);  that  of  Gozo  (27  sq.  M.) 
is  21,200.  The  British  and  foreign  residents  number  about  10,000. 
The  natives,  especially  in  the  seaports,  Phoenician  in  origin,  are 

26* 


398     Route  63.  MALTA.  History. 

partly  descended  from  the  various  races  that  have  here  held  sway. 
The  lingua  Maltese  is  akin  to  Arabic,  but  has  borrowed  much  from 
the  Sicilian  dialect  of  Italian,  and  of  late  from  English  also.  The 
educated  classes  speak  Italian  which  is  used  also  in  the  law-courts. 
The  language  of  commerce  is  English.  The  faldetta,  the  peculiar 
black  head-dress  of  the  womeD,  is  the  sole  relic  of  the  old  national 
costumes. 

The  Maltese  are  much  attached  to  the  church  of  Rome,  and 
nowhere  in  so  small  a  community  are  the  churches  so  numerous 
and  gorgeous.  About  one-third  of  the  soil  is  said  to  belong  to  the 
clergy.  The  Maltese  are  well-known  throughout  the  Mediterranean 

.  as  enterprising  mariners,  merchants,  and  fishermen.  Their  island 
being  the  most  densely  peopled  region  in  the  Mediterranean  next 

•to  Monaco,  an  immense  number  of  the  inhabitants  have  emigrated 
during  the  last  century.  From  1807  onwards  they  settled  largely 
in  the  Tunisian  seaports,  from  Tabarca  to  Zarzis,  where  they  formed 
the  bulk  of  the  Christian  population,  but  of  late  they  have  had  to 
contend  against  the  growing  competition  of  the  Sicilians  and  other 
Italians.  In  Algeria  they  have  formidable  rivals  in  the  Italians  and 
Spaniards.  Within  the  last  few  decades  the  stream  of  emigration 
has  flowed  chiefly  to  Tripolitania,  Barca,  Egypt,  and  even  to 
Zanzibar  and  Delagoa  Bay. 

Malta  is  supposed  to  be  identical  with  the  island  of  Oyygia  described 
by  Homer,  where  Odysseus  is  fabled  to  have  been  enslaved  by  the  nymph 
Calypso,  whose  alleged  cavern  is  still  pointed  out  on  the  N.  coast  of  Malta, 
and  also  in  the  island  of  Gozo.  Between  3000  and  2000  B.C.  a  prehistoric 
race  (Hamitic?),  probably  from  Libya,  settled  in  Malta.  Of  their  stage 
of  civilization,  which  lasted  a  thousand  years,  traces  are  still  found  in  the 
massive  stone  structures  in  the  cyclopean  style,  which  reveal,  especially 
in  their  circular  ground-plan,  an  affinity  with  the  sesi  of  Pantelleria, 
the  nuraghi  of  Sardinia  (see  p.  145),  and  the  megalithic  monuments 
of  Barbary,  S.E.  Spain,  and  the  Balearic  Islands,  and  fall  within  the  sphere 
of  influence  of  pre-Mycensan  ('insular')  and  Mycenaean  culture.  Lat|r 
the  Phoenicians  of  Sidon  founded  a  colony  here,  which  soon  became  im- 
portant enough  to  send  forth  settlers  to  Acholla  (p.  370)  on  the  Tunisian 
coast.  Next,  in  736  B.  C,  came  Greek  immigrants,  and  two  centuries  later 
the  Carthaginians,  who  took  possession  of  the  island.  They  now  called 
it  Melita  and  had  a  capital  of  that  name  (now  Notabile),  but  they  in 
their  turn  were  ousted  by  the  Romans  in  218  B.  C.  It  was  on  the  N.  coast 
of  Melita  that  St.  Paul  was  wrecked  in  62  A.  D.  (Acts,  xxvii.  xxviii). 
He  was  received  and  courteously  lodged  by  Publius,  the  governor,  and 
fuunded  a  Christian  community  in  the  island  before  resuming  his  voyage. 
Four  centuries  later  came  the  Vandals  (p.  322),  and  after  another  century 
the  Byzantines,  who  in  870  were  driven  out  by  Moors  from  Tunis.  Under 
the  Moors  the  island  was  infested  with  pirates.  At  length  when  the  Nor- 
mans under  Roger  conquered  Sicily  in  1090,  Malta  also  fell  under  their 
sway,  and  thenceforward  it  shared  the  fortunes  of  Sicily  until  1522.  In  that 
year  arrived  the  Knights  of  St.  John,  banished  from  Rhodes  by  the  Turks, 
and  to  that  Order  in  1530  Malta,  Gozo,  and  Tripoli  were  granted  by 
Emp.  Charles  V.  The  knights  then  took  the  name  of  Knights  of  Malta 
and  galluntly  defended  their  island,  which  became  one  of  the  great  bul- 
warks of  Christianity,  against  the  repeated  attacks  of  the  Turks.  The 
most  fearful  siege  they  sustained  was  that  of  Borgo  (Vittoriosa,  p.  400) 
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Malta.  VALLETTA.  63.  Route.     399 

Great  under  Dragut  (p.  370),  Mustapha,  and  Piali.  In  consequence  of  that 
event  the  Grand  Master  Jean  de  la  Valette  founded  and  fortified  the 
new  town  of  La  Valetto  (Valletta),  which  became  the  capital  and  was 
deemed  impregnable.  In  1798  Buonaparte,  when  on  his  way  to  Egypt, 
gained  possession  of  the  town  by  treachery  and  stratagem;  but  on  8th  Sept. 
1800,  atter  a  siege  of  two  years  by  the  Maltese,  assisted  by  British  and 
Neapolitan  troops,  the  French  garrison  was  compelled  to  capitulate  and 
leave  the  island.  Since  the  treaty  of  Paris  (1811)  Malta  has  belonged 
to  Britain.  —  The  present  governor  of  the  island  is  Lt.-Gen.  Sir  H.  M. 
Bundle,  K.  C.  B. 

The  island  of  Malta  presents  an  undulating  and  richly  varied 
N.E.  coast,  but  on  the  rocky  S.TV.  side  it  rises  abruptly  from  the 
sea.  The  G^rand  Harbour  and  the  Marsamuscetto  Harbour,  the 
two  grand  natural  harbours  of  Valletta,  originally  valleys  hollowed 
out  during  the  tertiary  period,  form  one  of  the  most  important  of 
British  war-harbours  and  the  headquarters  of  the  Mediterranean 
fleet.  Owing  to  its  central  position  Malta  is  also  a  great  coaling- 
station,  vying  with  Gibraltar,  Algiers,  and  Genoa.  In  1908-9  the 
harbour  was  entered  and  cleared  by  3212  vessels  of  4,036,752  tons 
of  burden. 

Valletta.  —  Arrival.  The  great  British  liners  lie  to  in  Sliema  Creek 
(p.  400);  the  French,  Italian,  and  German  steamers  anchor  in  tho  Grand 
Harbour,  near  the  Custom  House,  or,  during  N.E.  gales,  in  the  sheltered 
Marsa  Creek.  Boat  to  or  from  steamer  Gd.,  with  baggage  9d.  (at  night 
Is.).   Passports  may  sometimes  be  useful  at  custom-house,  post-office,  etc. 

Hotels  (all  more  or  less  in  the  English  style).  1.  At  Valletta:  Hot. 
d'Angleterre,  Strada  Stretta  34,  with  a  fine  fresco-painted  dining-room 
(17th  cent.),  pens.  9s.,  good;  St.  James's  Hotel,  Strada  San  Paolo  226, 
pens.  9s.,  well  conducted ;  Hot.  Royal,  Strada  Mercanti  30,  pens.  10s. ; 
Westminster,  Strada  Reale  11;  Imperial,  Via  Santa  Lucia  134;  Queen's, 
Strada  Mercanti ;  Hot.  d'Australie,  Strada  Stretta  53,  pens.  8l/a  fr. ; 
HOt.  Central,  Strada  Stretta  44,  pens.  S'/a  fr-,  good  cuisine,  commercial 
house.  Also  the  family  hotels,  Oxford  (No.  29),  Great  Britain  (No.  67), 
and  Osbornto  (No.  50),  all  in  Strada  Mezzodi,  quiet  and  pleasant.  —  2.  At 
Sliema  (p.  400),  for  some  stay:  *New  Imperial,  Strada  Ridolfo;  Savot, 
Strada  Imrabat  6,  with  garden,  pens,  (with  bath)  6-8s.,  good;  these  two 
in  an  open  site. 

Restaxirant.  National  Restaurant,  Strada  Reale  253.  —  Capes.  Bi- 
gazza,  near  the  Exchange  Buildings;  Regina,  Piazza  Tesoreria;  Anglo- 
Maltese  (Engl,  beer),  Commerce,  both  in  Strada  Reale;  Express. 

Post  Office,  Strada  Mercanti  4.  —  Telegraph  Office,  Strada  Reale  38. 

Banks.  Anglo- Egyptian,  Strada  Reale  233;  Banco  diRoma;  Anglo- 
Maltese  and  Banco  di  Malta,  Exchange  Buildings,  Strada  Reale. — Money 
Changers.  Coppini,  Strada  Mercanti  58;  Thos.  Cook  <&  Son,  Strada  Reale 
308. — Bookseller.  J.  Critien,  Strada  Reale,  and  others.  —  Newspapers. 
Daily  Malta  Chronicle,  Malta  Herald,  Gazzetta  di  Malta,  etc. 

Shops.  Lack  at  the  Malta  Lace  School,  Strada  Mezzodi  28;  Borg,  Strada 
Reale  269 ;  Mif&ud,  Strafla  Santa  Lucia.  —  Filigree  Work  at  Amabile's. 

Theatres.  Royal  Opera,  Strada  Reale,  at  the  corner  of  Strada  Mezzodi 
(Nov. -April,  Ital.  opera);  Teatro  Manoel,  Strada  Teatro,  built  by  Grand 
Master  Manoel  de  Vilhena  (p.  401)  in  1781,  for  operas  and  varieties. — 
Varieties  at  the  Alhambra. 

Cabs.  Within  Valletta  and  Floriana,  incl.  the  Marina  id.  (luggage 
according  to  bargain);  to  Sliema  Is.  2d.,  to  Burmola,  Senglea,  or  Vittoriosa 
Is.  8d.,  to  Musta  2s.,  to  Notabile  or  Krendi  2s.  6rt.,  to  Boschetto  3s.,  to 


400     Route  63.  VALLETTA.  Malta. 

Mnaidra  or  St.  Paul's  Bay  4s.— By  time:  1/i  hr.  6c?.,  1/2  br.  Is.,  1  hr.  Is.  6<?., 
each  addit.  J/4  br.  4<?. 

Lift  from  the  harbour  to  the  Upper  Barracca  (p.  402),  Id. 

Tramways  from  Porta  Reale  (1)  via  Marsa  and  Casal  Paula  (2c?.)  to 
Burmola,  (2)  vi&  Curmi  to  Zebbug,  (3)  via  Hamrun  to  Birchircara. 

Steam  Ferry  across  the  Grand  Harbour  to  Senglea  (V2C?.);  across 
Marsamuscetto  Harbour  to  Sliema  (ll»d.);  to  Pieta  and  Misida  (Id.);  in 
summer  to  St.  Julian's  also  (2c?.).  — Steamer  to  Gozo  every  week-day  at 
7,  on  Sun.  at  8  a.m.;  on  Sun.,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  Sat.  at  1  p.m.  also;  re- 
turning at  10.30  or  4.30;  return-fare  Is.;  dep.  from  Grand  Harbour;  to  or 
from  steamer  4c?. 

Malta  Railway  (station  between  Royal  Opera  and  Porta  Reale),  24 
trains  daily  (more  on  Sun.)  to  Attard  3c?.  or  l'l^d.,  to  Notabile  (Citta  Vec- 
chia)  Id.  or  3*/2<?. 

Steamboat  Offices.  Peninsular  &  Oriental,  Worcester,  Strada  Mer- 
canti41;  Cunard,  Lowe,  Strada  Stretta  81;  C'omp.  Gen.  Transatlantique 
(p.  396),  Vadala,  Strada  Reale  292;  Societa  Nazionale  (R.  64),  Civitelli, 
Strada  San  Paolo  225;  German  Levant,  P.  Cutajar  &  Co.;  Hungarian 
Adria  Co.  (RR.  22,  23),  Kohen,  Piazza  Regina  6. 

United  States  Consul,  J.  O.  Laing;  vice-consul,  James  A.  Turnbull. 

—  Lloyd's  Agents,  Gollcher  &  Sons,  Strada  Zaccaria  21. 

Sights.  Cathedral  before  8  and  from  10  to  10.30  a.m. ;  also  after  2  p.m. 

—  Library  on  week-days,  9  to  3.30.  —  Governor's  Palace  daily,  9-12  and 
1-5,  6c?.  (guide  unnecessary).  —  Valletta  Museum  on  week-days  9-1  (in  June- 
Sept.  3-6  also),  6c?.,  Sat.  3c?.;  Sun.  9-12  free. 

One  Day.  Visit  to  Cathedral,  Palace,  and  Museum  (p.  401),  and  view 
from  Barracca  Superiore  (p.  402)  in  the  forenoon;  in  the  afternoon,  trip 
to  Notabile  (p.  403;  cathedral,  bastions,  museum),  or  to  Gozo  (p.  403). 

Valletta  or  Valetta  (197  ft.;  pop.  25,000,  or  incl.  Floriana 
32,000),  the  capital  of  Malta,  is  the  seat  of  the  Governor  (see 
p.  399),  of  the  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  Mediterranean  Forces 
(den.  Sir  Ian  Hamilton),  and  of  a  University  founded  in  1769.  It 
lies  in  35°34'  N.  lat.  and  14°31'  E.  long.,  at  the  extremity  of  the 
peninsula,  formerly  called  Monte  Sceberras,  VJ^  M.  long  and  l/2~M- 
broad,  between  the  Grand  Harbour  (to  the  S.E.)  and  the  Marsa- 
muscetto Harbour  (to  the  N.W.).  Enthroned  above  its  harbours, 
with  it  grand  fortifications  partly  hewn  in  the  rock,  the  model  of  a 
16th.  cent,  fortress,  it  presents  a  very  striking  appearance  when 
approached  from  the  sea. 

Opposite  Valletta,  on  the  three  central  creeks  of  the  Grand  Har- 
bour, lie  the  'Three  Cities'  oi  Borgo  (Malt.  Birgu ;  pop.  6200),  the 
oldest  seat  of  the  Maltese  Order,  also  called  Vittoriosa  since  the 
great  Turkish  siege,  Senglea  (pop.  8100),  and  Burmola  or  Cospicua 
(pop.  14,100),  with  the  naval  arsenal.  In  the  Marsamuscetto  Har- 
bour lies  the  island  of  Jezira,  with  the  Lazzaretto,  beyond  which, 
on  the  Sliema  Creek,  rises  the  town  of  Sliema  (pop.  12,000). 

The  Fortifications  were  an  object  of  ceaseless  attention  under  the 
rule  of  the  Order.  The  oldest  part  of  them  is  Fort  St.  Angelo,  originally 
built  by  the  Moors  in  870  and  renewed  in  1530,  which  in  the  siege  of 
1565  proved  the  chief  bulwark  of  Borgo.  Fort  St.  Elmo,  originally  built 
in  1488  but  now  entirely  altered,  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Turks  in 
1565.  The  town -wall  of  Borgo  was  built  in  1530  and  that  of  Senglea  in 
1554.  The  *Town  Walls  of  Valletta,  with  their  thirty  bastions,  deep 
moats,  drawbridges,  and  casemates,  date  chiefly  from  the  time  of  the 
foundation  of  the  town  (1666-71).    The  outworks  of  Floriana  are  of  1635. 


Malta.  VALLETTA.  63.  Route.     401 

The  older  ramparts  of  Vittoriosa,  Senglea,  and  Burmola,  called  the 
Wirenzuola  Lines,  were  strengthened  by  the  addition  of  new  out-works 
in  1668  called  the  Cottonera  Lines.  The  later  harbour-forts  are  Fort 
Ricasoli,  of  1670,  Fort  Manoel  in  Jezira,  of  1732,  and  Fort  Tigne,  of 
1792.   All  these  works  are  supplemented  by  the  British  Harbour  Batteries. 

The  streets  ascend  steeply  from  the  two  harbours,  many  of 
them  by  means  of  long  flights  of  steps.  The  main  business  streets 
are  the  Strada  Reale,  leading  on  the  top  of  the  peninsula  from 
Fort  St.  Elmo  to  Porta  Eeale  (over  1/2  M.),  and  the  Strada  Mer- 
canti.  From  the  latter  the  Strada  Cristoforo  descends  past  the 
University,  established  in  an  old  Jesuit  college  (Strada  San  Paolo 
109),  to  the  Lower  Barracca  Gardens,  a  bastion  affording  a 
good  survey  of  the  mouth  of  the  harbour  and  the  'Three  Cities'. 

The  plain  Palace,  once  the  seat  of  the  Grand  Master  and  now 
that  of  the  governor  of  Malta  (see  p.  399),  was  erected  in  1573-7 
by  Girolamo  Cassar  in  the  Strada  Reale  and  Piazza  Tesoreria,  in 
the  centre  of  the  town.  The  garden  court  on  the  left  is  adorned  with 
a  bronze  statue  of  Neptune  by  Giovanni  da  Bologna;  in  the  court 
on  the  right  rises  a  huge  Araucaria  excelsa.  Adm.,  see  p.  400;  en- 
trance by  the  green  gate  in  the  upper  court. 

The  chief  attraction  is  the  Palace  Armoury  on  the  first  floor,  con- 
taining armour,  weapons,  flags,  and  trophies  of  the  Order  (catalogue  5s.). 
The  principal  hall,  88  yds.  long,  contains  also  state-coaches  in  the  pseudo- 
classical  style  and  charters  of  Pope  Paschalis  II.  (1113)  and  Charles  V. 
(1530;  investiture  of  the  Order).  On  the  walls  of  the  adjacent  corridor 
are  painted  views  of  eld  Malta.  The  Council  Room  on  the  left  is  hung 
with  superb  Gobelins,  designed  by  Frang.  Desportes  (1703).  The  wall- 
paintings  represent  naval  battles  fought  by  the  Order. 

An  inscription  on  the  Doric  portico  of  the  Main  Guard,  op- 
posite the  N."W.  fagade  of  the  Palace,  records  the  cession  of  Malta 
to  Great  Britain.  A  baud  often  plays  in  the  square  in  the  evening. 
In  the  Piazza  Tesoreria,  opposite  the  S.W.  facade  of  the  Palace,  is 
the  Public  Library  of  56,000  vols,  (adm.,  see  p.  400;  entrance  under 
the  arcades). 

The  Cathedral  of  San  Giovanni  (St.  John's),  to  the  left  in  the 
second  side -street  in  the  direction  of  the  Porta  Reale,  built  in 
1573-7  by  Girol.  Cassar,  and  lavishly  decorated  in  the  interior, 
was  the  Order's  temple  of  fame.  Adm.,  see  p.  400. 

Interior.  The  oil-paintings  on  the  barrel- vaulting  are  by  Mattia 
Freti  ('il  Cavaliere  Calabrese';  1613-99).  On  the  floor  are  about  400  slabs 
of  coloured  marble,  tombstones  of  the  knights.  The  chapels  dedicated  to 
the  nine  nations  of  the  Order  are  lined  with  a  number  of  tombstones  of 
Grand  Masters,  mostly  in  the  baroque  or  rococo  style.  In  the  Portuguese 
chapel  (2nd  on  the  right)  are  those  of  Ant.  Manoel  de  Vilhena  (1722-36) 
and  Manoel  Pinto  de  Fonseca  (17-11-73),  the  founder  of  the  university. — 
In  the  Crypt,  below  the  high-altar  (of  1686),  repose,  among  others,  L'Isle 
Adam  (1530-4),  the  first  Maltese  Grand  Master,  and  Jean  de  la  Valette 
(1557-68),  the  gallant  defender  of  Borgo  (see  p.  398). 

Sumptuous  Brussels  tapestry  (1697-1701),  after  designs  by  Rubens 
and  Mattia  Preti,  is  hung  up  in  the  church  on  festivals. 

The  *Valletta  Museum,  Strada  San  Giovanni  38,  opposite  the 
fagade  of  the  Cathedral,  affords  an  admirable  survey  of  the  history 


402     Route  63.  VALLETTA.  Malta. 

of  Maltese  art  and  culture  from  the  prehistoric  age  down  to  the 
close  of  the  Knights'  period.  Adm.,  see  p.  400;  no  catalogue;  cur- 
ator, Dr.  Themistocles  Zammit. 

Entrance  Room.  On  the  left  the  'sacred  stone'  from  the  Torre  dei 
G/iganti  (p.  404);  Roman  inscriptions  from  Gozo  (about  140  A. D.);  a  tine 
Norman  capital,  Norman  and  Oufic  (early  Arabic)  inscriptions,  etc.;  also 
models  of  stone  balconies  and  of  a  Norman  window  at  Victoria  (p.  404). 

First  Floor.  Prehistoric  objects  from  Egypt  (the  Faiyum);  the  Lord 
Grenfell  collection  of  Egyptian  antiquities;  Greek  vases  from  Benghazi 
and  Cyrene;  Arabian  glass,  etc. 

Second  Floor.  In  the  Ante  Room  are  Roman  sculptures.  —  The  Chief 
Hall  contains  prehistoric,  Phoenician,  Punic,  and  Roman  objects  from  tombs 
in  Malta  and  Gozo.  By  the  entrance-wall  is  a  large  collection  of  vases 
arranged  in  types.  In  the  last  case  are  potsherds  from  various  neolithic 
stations.  By  the  back-wall  are  prehistoric  finds  from  Hal-Saflieni  (see 
below)  and  Hagiar  Kim  (p.  403),  vases,  amulets,  projectiles,  flint  imple- 
ments, seven  seated  stone  figures,  etc.;  adjacent,  on  the  left,  is  the  unique 
Phoenician-Greek  dedicatory  inscription  in  which  Phoenician  characters 
were  for  the  first  time  deciphered  (on  the  right,  cast  of  a  similar  inscription 
in  the  Louvre).  By  the  window-wall  are  copies  and  models  of  the  so-called 
chief  temple  of  Hagiar  Kim  and  of  Phoenician  tombs;  also  an  Arabian 
tombstone  (1173),  with  a  long  Oufic  inscription.  In  the  first  case  in  the 
centre  is  Phoenician  glass;  in  the  fourth,  a  Phoenician  terracotta  sarco- 
phagus, with  the  recumbent  figure  of  the  deceased.  The  Second  Room 
contains  memorials  of  the  period  of  the  Order.  —  In  the  Passage  are  draw- 
ings of  the  Roman  house  at  Notabile  (p.  403)  and  its  mosaics. — The  Third 
Room  contains  old  plans,  maps,  and  views  of  Malta  an  old;  model  of  a 
state-galley  of  the  Grand  Masters;  a  collection  of  coins  from  the  Phoenician 
age  to  the  present  day. 

Each  of  the  nine  nations  of  the  Order  had  its  own  'aubcrge'  or 
house  of  assembly.  Most  of  these  were  built  by  Girol.  Cassar.  The 
Auberge  d'Aragon  is  in  the  Piazza  Celsi.  At  the  upper  end  of  the 
town  are  the  Aub.  de  Provence,  at  the  corner  of  the  Strada  Reale 
and  Strada  Britannica,  the  Aub.  d'llalie  (1574),  in  the  Strada  Mcr- 
canti,  opposite  the  post-office,  and  the  handsome  Aub.  de  Castille 
(1574;  altered  in  1744),  in  the  Piazza  Regina. — A  few  paces  from 
the  Piazza  Regina  are  the  Upper  Barracca  Gardens  (laid  out  on 
the  large  bastion  of  Barracca  Superiore;  lift,  see  p.  400),  embel- 
lished with  numerous  statues,  and  affording  a  fine  view  of  the  Grand 
Harbour,  especially  by  evening  light. 

Through  the  Porta  Reale  (P.  R.  on  the  map)  we  reach  the  plateau 
between  Valletta  and  the  suburb  of  Floriana.  Near  the  gate  is  the 
tramway-station  (p.  400).  On  the  right,  farther  on,  is  the  Parade 
Ground.  In  the  middle  of  the  plateau,  beyond  the  bronze  statue 
of  Ant.  Manoel  de  Vilhena  (p.  401),  runs  the  long  narrow  Maglio 
Garden,  enclosed  by  high  walls.  Farther  on  we  come  to  the  bas- 
tions of  Floriana,  on  which  are  situated  the  Argotti  or  Botanic 
Garden,  belonging  to  the  university,  and  the  Sarria,  a  handsome 
church  of  the  Maltese  Order  (1678). 

At  Casal  Paula  or  Paulu,  2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Floriana,  beyond  the 
Creek  ofMarsa,  lies  the  prehistoric  Hypogaeum  of  Hal  Saftieni,  containing 
circular  caves,  some  of  them  richly  decorated,  of  the  period  of  the  neolithic 
civilization.  Entrance  (6d.)  in  Catacomb  Street,  5  rmn.  from  the  tramwav- 
terminus  (p.  400). 


Malta.  NOTABILE.  S3.  Route.     403 

Railway  (p.  400)  from  Valletta  to  Notabile  (carr.,  see  p.  399). 
After  the  long  tunnel  under  Floriana  come  the  stations  of  Hamrun, 
Mislda,  Birchircara,  and  (472  M.)  Attard  (Alb.  Melita).  About 
10  min.  to  the  N.  of  Attard  is  the  Palace  of  Sant' Antonio  (1625), 
once  the  summer  seat  of  the  Grand  Master  (visitors  admitted  to  the 
fine  garden).  The  road  in  front  of  the  palace  goes  on  to  (2  M.)  Musta, 
with  a  remarkable  church,  whose  huge  dome,  118  ft.  in  diameter, 
was  constructed  in  1853-64  without  the  aid  of  scaffolding. 

7  M.  Notabile  or  Citta  Vecchia  (Hot.  du  Point-de-Vue, 
with  fine  view,  pens.  7-8s. ;  pop.  7500),  still  popularly  called 
.1/  dina  (Arabic  for  'town'),  the  seat  of  the  bishop,  was  the  old 
fortified  capital  of  the  island  as  far  back  as  the  Roman  age. 

From  the  Notabile  station  a  road  leads  to  the  Piazza  Sakkaya,  on 
the  hill  between  the  old  town  and  the  S.  suburb  of  Rdbato.  Thence 
we  pass  through  the  Porta  dei  Greci  to  St.  Paxil's  Cathedral  (San 
Paolo),  before  whose  portal  are  planted  cannons  as  in  the  time  of  the 
Order.  The  sumptuous  interior  contains  many  marble  tombstones 
of  Maltese  bishops.  Fine  choir-stalls  of  1480.  The  Strada  dei 
Bastioni  behind  the  church  commands  an  extensive  view. 

In  Museum  Road,  not  far  from  the  Piazza  Sakkaya,  is  a  Roman 
house,  excavated  in  1881,  now  converted  into  a,  Museum,  containing 
mosaic  pavements,  statues,  bronzes,  and  glass  (fee  3d.).  —  The 
adjacent  Esplanade  affords  a  fine  view  of  Musta,  the  town-walls 
of  Notabile,  and  the  pleasant  green  valley  at  the  foot  of  the  Irn- 
tarfa  Hill,  with  the  barracks  and  the  Museum  Station  (terminus 
of  the  railway,  which  goes  through  a  tunnel  under  Notabile). 

The  parish  church  of  San  Paolo,  in  the  Piazza  Parrocchiale  of 
the  suburb  of  Rabato,  stands  over  a  cavern,  in  which,  according  to 
the  legend,  St.  Paul  dwelt  during  his  three  months'  stay  in  the  island 
in  the  year  62.  From  the  church  the  Strada  San  Cataldo  and  Strada 
Sant'  Agata  soon  lead  to  the  Catacombs  of  St.  Paul  and  the 
Cemetery  of  St.  Agatha,  both  pre-Christian  in  origin  but  used  in 
Christian  times  (fee  3d.). 

To  the  N.W.  of  Notabile  rise  the  Bingemma  HiUs  (784  ft.),  with 
Phoenician  rock-tombs  and  a  fort  on  the  coast.  —  About  2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of 
Notabile,  near  C'asal  Dingli,  is  the  Naval  Signal  Station  (847  ft.),  the 
highest  point  in  the  island,  whence  we  overlook  the  whole  group  of  is- 
lands and  the  surrounding  sea.  —  Some  2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Notabile  lies  the 
Boschetto,  a  large  public  garden  (carr.,  see  p.  399),  adjoining  the  Verdala 
Palace  (1586),  once  a  summer  seat  of  the  Grand  Masters  (now  that  of  the 
governors).  —  To  the  S.E.  is  (4'/a  M.)  Casal  Krendi  (carr.,  see  p.  399), 
near  the  luxuriantly  wooded  gorge  of  Makluba,  132  ft.  deep,  probably 
formed  by  an  earthquake.  We  may  visit  (20  min.  to  the  W.)  the  pre- 
historic ruins  of  Hagiar  Kim,  buildings  of  huge  blocks  of  stone  without 
mortar.    About  7  min.  farther  to  the  W.  are  the  similar  ruins  of  Mnaidra. 

St.  Paul's  Bay  (Baia  di  San  Paolo;  carr.,  see  p.  399)  on  the  N.  side  of 
the  island,  5'/a  M.  to  the  N.  of  Notabile,  with  the  islet  of  Selmun  (colossal 
statue  of  the  apostle),  is  the  supposed  scene  of  St.  Paul's  shipwreck. 

The  sister  island  of  Gozo  (p.  397),  to  the  N.W.  of  Malta,  the 


404     Route  63.  GOZO. 

ancient  Gaulos,  Maltese  Ghaudex,  which  also  was  once  fortified 
by  the  Maltese  Order,  is  more  fertile  and  varied  than  the  main  is- 
land. The  coast  is  precipitous  all  round.  The  small  local  boat 
(p.  400)  crosses  in  l1^  nr-,  affording  a  fine  view  of  the  N.E.  coast 
of  Malta,  and,  on  the  way  back,  of  the  caves  on  the  W.  shore  of 
Comino.  We  land  in  Migiarro  or  Miggiar  Bay  (Malt.  Mjiar),  on 
the  S.  coast  of  Gozo,  below  Fort  Chambri  (1750),  where  carriages 
are  in  waiting  (to  Victoria  and  back  3s.,  whole  day  5s.). 

Victoria  (299  ft.;  Duke  of  Edinburgh  Hotel,  and  others;  pop. 
5000),  called  Rabat  down  to  1887,  the  capital  and  episcopal  res- 
idence of  Gozo,  lies  in  the  centre  of  the  island,  4  M.  to  the  N.W.  of 
the  landing-place.  The  streets  show  a  good  many  relics  of  mediaeval 
architecture  (comp.  p.  402).  The  neglected  Citadel  dates  from  1600. 
The  women  of  Gozo  are  much  occupied  with  lace-making. 

A  branch  of  the  road  from  the  harbour  to  Victoria  leads  to  the  village 
of  Sciarra  (486  ft.;  Maltese  Casal  Xaghra).  Below  Sciarra,  on  a  height 
covered  with  fruit-trees,  rises  the  Torre  dei  Giganti  (Malt.  Ggantija), 
similar  to  the  ruins  of  Hagiar  Kim  (p.  403;  adm.  by  leave  of  the  pro- 
prietor, Marquis  Cassar  Desain). 


64.  From  Tunis  to  Syracuse  via  Sfax, 
Tripoli,  and  Malta. 

Between  Tunis  and  Tripoli,  544  M. :  1.  Societa  Nasionale,  Line  XIX 
(Linea  Circolare  della  Tunisia  e  Tripolitania,  see  p.  142)  from  Tunis  Wed. 
aft.,  from  Susa  Thnrs.  foren.,  from  Sfax  Frid.  night,  arr.  at  Tripoli  Sun. 
morn,  (in  the  reverse  direction  leave  Tripoli  Thurs.  aft.,  arr.  at  Tunis 
Mon.  morn.).  Fare  103  or  75  fr.  —  2.  Comp.  de  Navig.  Mixte  (p.  128) 
leave  Tunis  Frid.  even.,  Susa  Sat.  noon,  Sfax  Sun.  midnight,  Gabes 
Mon.  noon,  Djerba  Mon.  even.,  arr.  at  Tripoli  Tues.  morn,  (in  reverse 
direction  leave  Tripoli  Tues.  aft.,  arr.  in  Tunis  Sat.  evening).  Fare  100 
or  75  fr.  —  From  Tunis  to  Susa  via  Sfax  and  back,  also  steamers  of  the 
Comp.  Gen.  Transatlantique  (p.  128;  leave  Tunis  Sun.  aft.,  Sfax  Mon. 
aft.,  Susa  Tues.  aft.,  regaining  Tunis  Wed.  morn.). — Between  Algiers 
and  Tripoli  direct,  or  via  Malta,  there  are  also  the  cargo-steamers  of  the 
German  Levant  Line.  —  At  Gabes,  Djerba,  and  Tripoli  gales  sometimes 
make  landing  impossible;  passengers  are  then  landed  at  the  next  port 
and  sent  back  free,  paying  for  their  extra  food  only. — Agents  at  Tunis, 
see  p.  331;  at  Susa,  see  p.  366;  at  Sfax,  see  p.  380;  at  Tripoli,  see 
p.  406. 

Between  Tripoli  and  Syracuse,  325  M. :  Societa  Nazionale,  Line  XX 
(Linea  Circolare,  see  above),  also  Line  VIII  (Catania,  Syracuse,  Benghazi. 
Constantinople;  R.  66).  The  vessels  of  the  principal  line  leave  Tripoli 
Sun.  aft.,  Malta  Mon.  night,  arr.  at  Syracuse  Tues.  morn,  (returning 
from  Syracuse  Mon.  night,  from  Malta  Wed.  foren.,  arr.  at  Tripoli  Thurs. 
morn.) ;  steamers  of  the  other  line  usually  leave  Tripoli  every  second 
Wed.  aft.,  Malta  Thurs.  night,  arr.  at  Syracuse  Frid.  morn,  (returning 
from  Syracuse  every  second  Frid.  night,  from  Malta  Sun.  foren.,  arr.  at 
Tripoli  Mon.  morn.).  Fare  74  fr.  50  c.  or  51  fr. — From  Malta  to  Tripoli 
there  is  a  fortnightly  steamer  of  the  Banco  di  Roma  and  occasionally  a 
cargo-boat  of  the  German  Levant  Line. — Between  Malta  and  Syracuse  the 
Hungarian  Adria  (p.  132)  plies  daily  except  Mon.  (from  Malta  after  mid- 
night, from  Syracuse  in  the  afternoon;  in  8  hrs. ;  fare  without  food  25  or  15, 
return  37'/2  or  22'/2  fr.).  — Agents  at  Malta  and  Syracuse,  see  p.  400,  162. 


MONASTIR.  64.  Route.     405 

From  Tunis  to  Cape  Bon,  see  p.  153.  Our  steamer,  generally 
at  night,  next  skirts  the  steep  E.  coast  of  Cape  Bon,  passes  Rds  el- 
Mirh,  and  off  Rds  el-Mustapha  steers  to  the  S.S.W.  for  Susa. 
On  the  latter  headland  lies  the  little  town  of  Kelibia,  the  ancient 
Aspis  or  Clupea,  whose  castle-hill  is  crowned  with  a  lighthouse. 
The  flat  coast  of  the  Gulf  of  Hammamet  (p.  364)  recedes  from 
view;  beyond  it,  in  the  background,  are  the  distant  Jebel  Zaghouan 
(p.  359),  Jebel  Zeriba  (2412  ft.),  and  Jebel  Fadloun  (1306  ft.). 

Rearing  Susa  (p.  366),  we  have  a  pleasant  view  of  the  olive- 
clad  hills  of  the  Sahel,  while  the  town  itself  presents  a  most  strik- 
ing picture  with  its  great  expanse  of  white  houses. 

Leaving  the  coast,  where  the  low  dunes  conceal  the  salt-marshes 
of  the  Sebkha  de  Sahline,  we  steer  to  the  E.S.E.  towards  the  Pointe 
de  Monastir,  the  S.  limit  of  the  bay  of  Hammamet. 

The  little  town  of  Monastir  (82  ft. ;  Hot.  de  Paris,  Hot.  de 
Fiance,  both  primitive;  Brit,  vice-cons.,  A.  B.  Geary;  pop.  9000, 
incl.  600  Europeans)  lies  superbly  on  the  olive-clad  headland.  It 
owes  its  name  to  a  monastery,  which  in  early  Moorish  times  still 
existed  as  the  sole  relic  of  the  Roman  seaport  of  Ruspina. 

From  the  steamer  we  first  sight  the  white  pinnacled  town-wall 
and  the  numerous  shrines  outside  of  it.  Then,  as  we  pass  between 
the  headland  and  the  three  islets  off  the  coast  (Djezira  Sidi  el- 
Rhedamsi  or  Re  Egdemsi,  etc.),  appears  the  dilapidated  Moorish 
Kasba  with  the  tower  of  En-Nadour.  To  the  E.  in  very  clear 
weather  we  descry  the  lighthouse  on  the  distant  Kuriat  Islands. 

After  a  short  stay  in  the  Bay  of  Monastir,  on  the  S.  side  of 
the  town,  we  steer  to  the  S.E.,  past  the  Dakar  Cliffs  (on  the  left), 
and  across  the  bay;  then,  beyond  the  Rds  Dimas,  along  the  coast 
to  Mehdia  (p.  369),  where  the  steamer  seldom  stops  long  enough 
to  admit  of  our  visiting  the  town. 

Next  (generally  at  night)  we  pass  Rds  Kapoudia  (p.  370),  the 
N.  limit  of  the  G^df  of  Gabes  (the  ancient  Syrtis  Minor),  where 
the  discrepancy  between  flow  and  ebb  (6*/o  ft.)  is  greater  than  in 
any  other  part  of  the  Mediterranean.  Avoiding  the  silted  Kerlenna 
Passage,  the  vessel  steers  round  the  Kerkenna  Islands  (Re  Chergui 
and  lie  Gharbi,  the  ancient  Cercina  and  Cercinitis). 

The  steamer  usually  arrives  at  Sfax  (by  way  of  the  harbour- 
canal,  p.  381)  early  in  the  morning.  Beyond  Sfax  the  vessel  skirts 
the  uninteresting  coast  as  far  as  Rds  Tina  (p.  383),  and  then  steers 
to  the  S.S.W.  across  the  bay  to  Gabes  (p.  389),  where  it  generally 
allows  time  for  a  short  visit  to  the  oasis. 

Leaving  Gabes  we  may  in  clear  weather  descry  the  Monts  des 
Ksour  (p.  390)  bounding  the  horizon.  We  then  steer  to  the  E.  to 
the  sandy  N.  coast  of  Djerba  (p.  393),  and  anchor  in  the  open  sea 
off  Houmt-Souk  (p.  393).  The  process  of  going  ashore  and  return- 
ing takes  so  long  that  it  is  hardly  ever  possible  to  visit  the  place. 


406     Route  64.  TRIPOLI.  Practiced  Notes. 

After  losing  sight  of  the  lighthouse  of  Rds  Taguermess  (or 
Turgoeness),  the  E.  cape  of  Djerba,  we  steer  for  a  long  time  to  the 
E.S.E.,  at  some  distance  from  the  sandy  coast  with  its  salt-marshes, 
where  the  Rds  Adjir  marks  the  frontier  of  Tripolitania. 

The  monotonous  sandy  coast,  with  its  numerous  oases,  with  the 
little  port  of  Sansur,  and  the  watch-tower  of  Gergdrish  (p.  411), 
is  scarcely  visible  till  we  are  nearing  Tripoli.  The  Ughthousc, 
rising  above  the  abraded  terrace  on  the  N.W.  side  of  the  town,  and 
the  ruinous  Spanish  Fort  (1510)  at  the  end  of  the  headland  are 
the  chief  landmarks.  Numerous  reefs  make  it  difficult,  and  in  a 
N.W.  gale  sometimes  impossible,  for  vessels  to  enter  the  harbour. 


Tripoli.  —  Arrival.  The  steamers  anchor  in  the  inner  roads,  more 
than  'l2  M.  from  the  pier,  and  are  at  once  boarded  by  the  hotel-agents 
(charges  should  be  asked).  Landing  or  embarking  50  c,  but  with  baggage 
l-l'/2  fr.  according  to  distance  and  bargain.  Dogana  at  the  pier  (PL  B,  1; 
comp.  p.  537).  For  a  prolonged  stay  a  passport  vise"  by  a  Turkish  cor- 
sul  is  necessary,  but  otherwise  a  'permis  de  voyage'  (1  fr.)  from  the  Cor- 
trole  Civil  at  Tunis,  or  even  a  visiting-card,  may  suffice.  The  services  <f 
the  importunate  Jewish  guides  should  be  declined. 

Hotel.  Hot.  Minerva  (PL  a,  B  2 ;  Maltese  landlord ;  bargain  advisable), 
de"j.  2V2,  pens.  6-8  fr.,  tolerable.  —  Cafe- Restaurant:  Circolo  Militare 
(p.  409;  Maltese  host),  near  the  Bab  el-Khandek.  Many  small  Arab  cafes 
on  the  quay  (Marina),  near  the  clock-tower  (Orologio),  etc. ;  small  cup  of 
coffee  (gahua)  5c,  very  sweet  'hlu',  slightly  sweetened  'gidgid';  cup  of 
tea  (shai)  10  c. ;  no  gratuities. 

Moorish  Baths  (comp.  p.  175),  tolerable;  the  best  is  the  Hammcim 
(bagno  drabo)  in  Strada  del  Bagno  (PI.  B,  2);  Europeans  pay  3  fr.  or  more 
according  to  their  rank. 

Post  Offices.  Italian,  at  the  Ital.  consulate  (PI.  7;  B,  2),  Strada  del 
Consolato  Italiano;  French,  at  the  French  consulate  (P1.4;B,  1),  Strada 
del  Consolato  Francese;  Turkish,  on  the  quay  (Marina).  Poste  Restante 
letters  should  bear  the  name  of  the  office  where  they  are  to  be  found. — 
Telegraph  Office.  Eastern  Telegraph  Co.  (PL  10 ;  B,  2),  on  the  quay ; 
payment  must  be  made  in  gold  or  in  Turkish  money. 

Consulates.  British  (PL  5;  B,  1):  consul-general,  J.  C.  W.  Alvarez; 
vice-consul,  A.  Dickson.  —  United  States  (PL  9;  B,  4):  consul,  J.  L.  Wood; 
vice-consul,  A.  E.  Saunders. 

Steamboat  Offices  (comp.  p.  404,  and  RE.  65,  66):  Societd  Nazionale, 
Labi,  Strada  del  Bagno;  Comp.  de  Navigation  Mixte,  Fratelli  Farrugia, 
Strada  del  Consolato  Italiano;  German  Levant  Line,  Suk  el-Harrara 
(PL  B,  2;  near  Suk  et-Turk). 

Banks.  Banco  di  Roma  (PL  2;  B,  2),  in  the  Piazza  (p.  409);  Otto- 
man Bank  (PL  1 ;  B,  2),  on  the  quay;  Labi,  see  above.  Government 
offices  accept  Turkish  money  only,  but  Tunisian  silver  and  copper,  and 
in  the  town  even  Italian  copper,  besides  10  and  20  fr.  gold  pieces,  are  in 
general  circulation. 

Carriages  (stand  on  the  S.E.  side  of  the  Serai,  p.  409)  IV2-2V2  fr.  per 
hour  according  to  the  quality  of  the  vehicle;  drive  round  the  oasis  3-5  Fr. ; 
as  few  of  the  drivers  speak  Italian  it  is  best  to  get  a  resident  to  niako 
the  bargain  and  specify  the  route. — Donkeys  (at  the  Suk  el-Khob^, 
p.  410),  1/2  "lay  1-2,  day  2-3  fr.  —  Rowing  and  Sailing  Boats  at  the  pier; 
about  2  fr.  per  hour. 

The  Language  of  the  natives  is  an  Arabic  dialect,  interlarded  with 
Berber  and  Italian  words;  many  of  the  officials,  however,  speak  Turk;  h 
only.   In  the  European  colony  Italian  predominates.   This  is  largely  due  to 


|8ilrf   1 


•     : 


History.  TRIPOLI.  64.  Route.      407 

the  fact  that  the  Italian  state  supports  several  schools,  which  are  attended 
by  Jewish  and  Maltese  children  as  well  as  Italian.  There  are  three  French 
schools  also. 

Ose  Djly  should  be  devoted  to  a  walk  of  2-3  hrs.  through  the  town 
and  to  an  excursion  to  the  oasis  (p.  410).  One  must  be  very  careful  not 
to  enter  mosques,  saints'  tombs,  or  Moslem  cemeteries  (comp.  p.  xxv). 
It  should  be  observed  also  that  the  military  authorities,  dreading  spies, 
are  jealous  of  visitors  near  the  fortifications  (comp.  p.  175).  Otherwise 
the  public  safety  is  well  provided  for  in  the  town  and  environs.  For  excur- 
sions in  the  interior  the  leave  of  the  Sublime  Porte  must  be  obtained. 

Tripoli  in  Barbary  (Ital.  Tripoli  di  Barberia,  Fr.  Tripoli 
de  Barbarie  or  d'Afrique,  Arabic  Tarabulus  el-Gharb,  i.e.  'Tri- 
poli of  the  West',  to  distinguish  it  from  the  Syrian  Tripoli),  the 
ancient  O'ea,  is  the  capital  of  the  Turkish  vilayet  of  Tripolitania, 
presided  over  by  the  Vali  or  governor-general.  The  town  lies  in 
32°  54'  N.  lat.  and  13°  10'  E.  long.,  on  a  triangular  peninsula,  which 
consists  of  quaternary  dune-sandstone  resting  on  tertiary  limestone 
rock.  A  series  of  rocky  islets  and  reefs,  l1/i  M.  long,  running  out 
from  the  peninsula,  form  a  roomy  but  much  silted  harbour.  The 
mixture  of  nationalities  converging  at  Tripoli,  as  one  of  the  chief 
portals  to  inland  Africa,  is  unparallelled  except  in  Egypt.  Of  the 
46,000  inhab.  two-thirds  are  Berbers  (p.  94),  Arabs,  Moors  (p.  171), 
and  Turks;  there  are  10,000  Jews,  2000  Maltese,  S00  Italians,  150 
Greeks  (besides  many  Greek  sponge-fishers  in  summer),  200  other 
Europeans,  and  lastly  some  2000  negroes,  descendants  of  slaves 
from  the  Sudan.  Negroes  are  to  be  found  also  among  the  very 
numerous  officers  of  the  garrison  of  6000  men. 

The  town  with  its  white  houses,  its  slender  minarets  of  the 
Turkish  type,  its  green  gardens  and  groups  of  palms,  the  reddish- 
yellow  dunes  of  drift-sand  from  the  Sahara,  and  the  deep-blue  sea, 
all  bathed  in  dazzling  sunshine,  present  a  most  fascinating  picture. 

History.  The  three  Phoenician  seaports  between  the  Syrtis  Minor 
and  Major,  Leptis  Magna  (p.  412),  O'ea,  and  Sabratha,  together  called 
Tripolis  by  the  Sicilian  Greeks,  were  even  in  the  Punic  age  connected 
by  caravan  routes  with  inland  Africa  and  by  a  coast-road,  512  M.  long, 
with  Carthage.  After  their  annexation  to  the  Roman  province  of  Africa 
on  the  tall  of  Jugurtha  (p.  321)  the  'three  cities'  flourished  anew.  To 
them,  as  also  to  Taeape  (Gabes),  the  Garamantes,  or  Libyan  (Berber) 
inhabitants  of  Phazania  (now  Fezzan),  brought  from  the  Sudan  ostrich- 
feathers,  gold-dust,  ivory,  ebony,  elephants,  and  black  slaves,  to  be  ex- 
ported thence  to  Carthage,  Rome,  and  the  chief  seaports  of  S.  Europe. 
This  region  yielded  also  large  supplies  of  corn,  while  the  productive 
olive-trees  were  deemed  the  most  abundant  on  the  Mediterranean.  To 
the  Roman  emperors  Septimius  Severus  (193-211)  and  Alexander  Severity 
(222-35).  natives  of  this  district,  the  three  towns  owed  much  improvement 
and  embellishment.  The  Punic  language  and  the  Greek,  which  was  that 
of  the  educated  classes,  were  then  still  so  prevalent  that  Alexander 
Severus,  for  example,  was  unacquainted  with  Latin  till  his  arrival  in  Rome. 
Sept.  Severus  made  Oea  the  capital  of  his  Provincia  Tripolitana,  and 
when  the  artificial  harbours  of  the  two  sister  towns  fell  into  decay  OSa 
succeeded  to  their  trade  and  their  joint  name. 

After  the  Vandal  period  (p.  322)  and  after  the  domination  of  the 
Byzantines,  who  succeeded  only  in  567  in  Christianizing  the  Garamantes, 
the  repeated  irruptions  of  the  Arabs  (p.  322)  brought  ruin  and  misery  to 


408     Route  64.  TEIPOLI.  Old  Town. 

the  whole  country.  Prom  670  onwards,  apart  from  the  short  periods  of 
occupation  by  the  Normans  (1140-59),  the  Spaniards  (1510-30),  and  the 
Maltese  Knights  (1530-51),  Tripolitania  remained  for  centuries  under  Arab 
or  Berber  sway,  sharing  the  fortunes  of  Tunisia  (comp.  p.  322),  while 
from  1216  onwards  the  Genoese  had  a  monopoly  of  the  coast-trade  of 
Tripolitania  and  Barca.  In  1551  the  corsair  Dragut  (p.  370),  driven  out 
of  Mehdia,  founded  a  new  Turkish  tributary  state  at  Tripoli.  From  that 
time  down  to  1816  the  inhabitants  took  an  active  part  in  the  depredations 
of  the  'Algerian  pirates',  bringing  down  upon  them  the  sanguinary  re- 
prisals of  an  English  fleet  in  1663  and  of  French  fleets  in  1685  and  1728, 
which  caused  the  almost  entire  destruction  of  the  town.  In  1804  Tripoli 
and  in  1805  Derna  (p.  414)  were  stormed  by  the  Americans.  The  native 
dynasty  of  the  Karamanli,  founded  in  1714,  was  overthrown  by  the  Turks 
in  1835,  after  which  Tripoli  became  a  usual  place  of  exile  for  Turkish 
civil  and  military  offenders  and  again  lapsed  into  decay.  At  length,  in 
1899,  the  partition  of  the  inland  regions  between  Great  Britain  and  France 
stimulated  the  Turks  to  renewed  activity  and  defensive  measures.  In 
spite,  however,  of  these,  and  of  the  very  favourable  situation  of  the  town, 
the  caravan  trade  with  the  interior  is  on  the  decline  and  the  local  in- 
dustries are  inconsiderable. 

The  Old  Town,  a  pentagon,  is  still  enclosed  on  four  sides  by 
the  mouldering  Spanish  Town  Wall,  40  ft.  high  at  places,  built  of 
sandstone  from  Gergarish  (p.  411),  and  consists  of  three  different 
quarters.  Near  the  harbour,  and  behind  the  Marina  (PI.  B,  1,  2) 
skirting  it  from  the  Dogana  or  Custom  House  (PL  B,  1)  onwards, 
lies  the  quarter  of  that  name,  inhabited  chiefly  by  the  Christians, 
and  therefore  the  least  Oriental  in  appearance.  To  the  W.  is  the 
Hdrra  (Kebir,  the  great,  and  Serir,  the  little),  the  Jewish  quarter, 
with  its  crooked  and  dirty  streets.  The  purely  Mohammedan  S. 
E.  Quarter  contains  the  main  business  streets,  which  lead  to  the 
outer  markets  and  the  new  town  (p.  409).  The  principal  streets 
are  paved  and  are  lighted  at  night  with  petroleum  lamps,  but  many 
others,  especially  in  the  Jewish  quarter,  being  unpaved  in  Oriental 
fashion,  are  almost  impassable  after  rain  and  pitch-dark  at  night. 

In  the  narrow  Strada  della  Marina  (Arabic  Bab  Bahr,  sea-gate), 
leading  from  the  Dogana  and  the  fish-market  to  the  S.W.  to  the 
Jews'  quarter,  rises  on  the  right  the  Roman  2'riumphal  Arch 
(PL  B,  1),  built  by  the  consul  C.  Orfitus  in  the  reign  of  Antoninus 
Pius  (138-161)  but  in  163  rededicated  to  that  emperor's  successors, 
Marcus  Aurelius  and  Lucius  Verus. 

The  arch,  41  ft.  broad  and  33  ft.  deep,  has  four  fronts  ('quadrifrons'; 
comp.  pp.  315,  316),  showing  that  it  stood  over  cross-streets.  Among  the 
sadly  mutilated  sculptures  are  still  seen  statues  of  Victory,  figures  of 
animals,  and  trophies.  The  back,  with  the  inscription,  is  half  covered, 
and  the  fourth  side  is  almost  entirely  built  over.  The  lower  half  is  buried 
in  the  ground.  The  interior  is  used  as  a  shop.  The  vaulting  of  the  pas- 
sages is  lacunar.  The  central  space  is  covered  with  a  flat  dome,  rising 
from  an  octagonal  cornice. 

We  next  come  to  the  Gurji  Mosque  (PL  B,  1),  with  an  oc- 
tagonal minaret,  and"  to  the  main  street  of  the  Hdrra  Kebir  (see 
above),  with  its  numerous  workshops,  where  curious  gold  and  silver 
trinkets  are  sold  by  weight. 


Old  Town.  TRIPOLI.  64.  Route.     409 

From  the  British  Consulate  (PI.  5;  B,  1)  we  follow  the  Church 
Street  to  the  S.E.  to  the  Italian  Gothic  church  of  Santa  Maria 
degli  Angeli  (PI.  B,  2),  completed  in  1846,  belonging  to  an  Italian 
Franciscan  monastery.  By  leave  of  the  superior  we  may  ascend  the 
tower,  whose  gallery  (141  ft.)  is  a  fine  point  of  view. 

From  the  Piazza  (PI.  B,  2 ;  Arabic  Mussaiya)  near  the  church 
the  Strada  del  Consolato  Italiano  leads  to  the  S.  to  the  Suk  el- 
Harrara  (PI.  B,  A,  2,  3),  the  chief  thoroughfare  between  the  Marina 
(p.  408)  and  the  W.  gate,  Bdb  el-Jedid  (PI.  A,  3 ;  'new  gate'),  opened 
in  1860.  This  sfik  contains  the  shops  of  the  cloth  and  silk  weavers 
and  several  curious  antiquated  Bakeries,  with  millstones  turned 
by  camels. 

A  road  from  the  W.  gate  leads  to  the  W.,  past  several  wells  (p.  410), 
to  the  (8  min.)  extensive  Jewish  Cemetery;  another,  to  the  N.,  to  the 
ancient  Necropolis  (PI.  A,  2),  on  the  abrupt  coast  (82  ft.),  not  far  from 
the  town-wall,  containing  many  rock-tombs  and  cisterns.  —  The  Greek  and 
the  Catholic  Cemeteries  (PI.  A,  B,  1)  lie  between  the  Lazaretto  and  the 
lighthouse. 

The  busiest  streets  in  the  S.E.  quarter  are  the  Zanga  Suk  et- 
Turk  (PI.  B,  2,  3)  and,  diverging  from  it  at  the  Piazza  dell'Orologio, 
the  Silk  el-Khadra  or  Suk  Urba  (PI.  B,  C,  3).  The  tasteless  three- 
storied  Torre  delV  Orologio,  Arabic  Sola  (PI.  B,  3),  which  tells 
Turkish  time,  was  built  in  1870.  In  front  of  the  Arab  cafes  here 
auctions  are  held  on  Friday  forenoons. ' 

The  Sues  (p.  335)  consist  here  in  part  only  of  vaulted  passages; 
many  have  wooden  roofs  with  vine-trellises.  The  wares  are  mostly 
Tunisian  or  European,  and  therefore  seldom  worth  buying  here. 
A  side-entrance  adjoins  the  J&ma  el-Bdsha  (PI.  0,  3),  the  chief 
mosque. 

The  massive  pile  of  buildings  by  the  sea,  a  few  paces  to  the  E.  of 
the  clock-tower,  is  the  Serai  (PL  C,  2,  3;  Arabic  Kasba),  originally 
the  Spanish  citadel.  It  now  contains  barracks,  many  courts,  several 
prisons  (habbgs),  partly  underground,  and  the  government  offices. 
The  terrace  next  the  sea  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  harbour  aud 
towards  the  oasis. 

Outside  the  S.  gates,  Bab  el-Khandek  and  Bab  el-Menshia  or  el- 
Mnshia  (PI.  C,  3;  oasis  gate),  rises  the  Fontana  Maggiore,  an  ele- 
gant well-house  in  the  Turkish  rococo  style.  Near  it  is  the  Circolo 
Militare  (PI.  C,  3 ;  p.  406),  a  fashionable  resort,  especially  when  the 
military  band  plays  (Sun.  and  Frid,  5  or  8  p.m.).  The  pretty  little 
garden,  whence  we  survey  the  Moslem  cemetery  (p.  411),  contains 
four  fine  antique  statues  in  marble,  all  of  them  "torsos  from  Leptis 
Magna  (p.  412). 

Outside  the  S.  gates  lies  the  featureless  New  Town  (Cilia 
Nuova),  in  which  among  other  buildings  are  situated  the  Town  Hall 
(Beledla;  PI.  C,  3),  the  Azizia  (PI.  C,  D,  3,  4),  erected  under  Abdul 
Aziz  as  a  residence  for  the  commandant,  the  new  VaM's Residence 


410     Koute  64.  TRIPOLI.  The  Menshia. 

(PI.  0,  4),  and  the  Technical  School  (PI.  D,  4).  The  Silk  el-Khobsa 
or  bread-market  (PI.  0,  3),  with  its  fondouks  (inns),  is  worth  seeiDg 
in  the  early  morning. 

The  sandy  beach,  nearly  3/4M.  long,  is  the  scene,  early  on 
Tuesday  mornings,  of  a  great  *  Weekly  Market  (Silk  et-Tlett; 
PL  D,  E,  3,  4),  attended  also  by  camel  caravans  from  the  interior. 
Among  the  many  products  of  the  country  offered  for  sale  here  are 
fruit  and  cereals  from  the  oases  (see  below),  olive-oil  (Arabic  zeit), 
henna  (see  below),  alfa  or  esparto,  reed-mats,  pottery,  leather  goods 
(such  as  the  girbas,  water-skins  in  goat-leather  for  journeys  in  the 
desert,  made  at  Ghadames).  It  is  a  market  also  for  pack-camels 
(Arabic  jemel),  donkeys  (hmar),  sheep,  and  goats. 

Beyond  the  market  are  a  barracks  quarter  (Kishla)  and  the 
suburb  of  Dahra,  inhabited  by  Turks,  Arabs,  and  Maltese,  with  a 
strange-looking  mosque  and  a  Catholic  nunnery-orphanage.  A  little 
to  the  S.,  on  the  road  to  Masri  (p.  411),  is  a  Negro  Village  with 
conical  reed-huts. — To  the  E.  of  the  market,  close  to  the  sea,  lies 
the  Giardino  Pubblico  (PI.  E,  3,  4;  bands  on  Frid.  and  Sun.). 

The  Menshia  or  Mnshla  (pop.  about  14,000,  mostly  Berbers), 
the  coast -oasis  of  Tripoli,  once  far  more  extensive,  stretches 
llj2  M.,  with  a  breadth  of  l-2x/2  M.,  as  far  as  the  dunes  bordering 
the  Jefdra  Steppe.  In  spring  it  is  one  sea  of  blossom.  To  the 
S.  of  the  steppe  rise  the  limestone  hills  fringing  the  Sahara  (Shara., 
desert),  commonly  called  the  Jebel  (mountain;  1300-1650  ft.  high). 
The  deep  ravines,  filled  with  considerable  streams  during  the  winter 
rains  (14  in.  per  annum  at  Tripoli,  but  considerably  more  in  the 
Jebel),  continue  to  send  down  a  supply  of  water  uuderground  even 
during  the  dry  season.  This  water  is  obtained  from  countless  draw- 
wells  (sania),  bordered  with  white  walls,  and  generally  shaded  by 
tamarisks  (Arabic  atel).  Day  and  night  oxen  or  donkeys  toil  at  the 
drawing  of  the  water,  which  is  then  collected  in  reservoirs  and 
conducted  thence  to  the  fields. 

In  spite  of  this  imperfect  mode  of  irrigation  and  the  primitive  wooden 
agricultural  implements  used  by  the  natives  the  excellent  soil  is  won- 
derfully productive.  Beneath  the  fruit-trees  of  every  variety,  olive-trees, 
mulberry-trees,  and  alcanna-shrubs  (henna,  Lawsonia  inermis;  p.  108), 
which  thrive  under  the  tall  overshadowing  date-palms,  the  soil  still 
gives  sustenance  to  barley  (Arabic  shair),  wheat  (gammah),  maize,  lupins, 
tobacco  (dokhan),  madder,  rose -geraniums,  red  pepper  (filfil  ahmar), 
onions,  tomatoes,  spinach,  beans,  melons,  etc.  The  excellent  early  po- 
tatoes are  sent  to  Europe  under  the  name  of  'Malta  potatoes'.  The  fields 
and  gardens  are  enclosed  by  mud-walls  3-7  ft.  high,  overgrown  with  Indian 
figs  (prickly  pears;  Opuntia  Ficus  indica;  Arabic  'hind'),  which  prevents 
them  from  collapsing  in  wet  weather.  It  is  harvest  all  the  year  round. 
From  April  to  June  almonds,  apricots,  and  corn  are  gathered  in,  then  in 
July  and  August  peaches  (khukh),  from  July  to  September  figs  and  luscious 
grapes,  from  October  to  December  dates  and  olives,  from  November  to 
April  excellent  oranges,  and  at  almost  any  season  lemons.  In  autumn 
the  nomadic  Arabs  of  the  steppe  pitch  their  dark  goats' -hair  tents  (beit 
shiiar,   hou&e  of  hair)   in  the   vacant  fields   in  order  to  gather  the  fresh 


BnvtroTU.  TRIPOLI.  S 4.  Route.     431 

yellow  dates.    The  dates  of  the  coast  are,  however,  inferior  in  flavour  to 
lliote  of  the  Sahara  oases  and  unsuitable  for  exportation. 

The  following  Excursion  takes  about  2  hrs.  (best  to  drive  or 
ride;  see  p.  406).  From  the  Sfik  el-Khobsa  (p.  410)  the  road  leads 
to  the  S.W.,  cutting  through  a  Moslem  cemetery  destroyed  by  an 
inundation  in  1904,  to  (lJ/4  M.)  Bumelidna,  where  a  pumping- 
stafidB  supplies  several  public  fountains  in  the  town.  It  then  runs 
to  the  E.  to  (1  M.)  Mdsri,  with  its  large  artillery  and  cavalry  bar- 
racks, where  the  dunes  command  a  line  view  of  the  steppe,  visible  in 
clear  weather  as  far  as  the  distant  Jebel.  Turning  to  the  S.E.,  and 
passing  the  mud-built  fort,  Gasr  el-Hdni,  we  come  to  (2]/2  M.)  the 
road  leading  to  the  N.  to  the  (3/4  M.)  official  house  of  the  Sheikh  of 
the  Menshia  {Hash  esh-ShiUkh ;  fine  view  towards  the  sea  from  the 
balcony).  About  l1/*  M.  to  the  N.E.  are  the  Suk  el-Jema  (Friday 
market)  and  the  extremely  dirty  village  of  AmrHLs,  inhabited  by 
about  600  Jews,  mostly  smiths.    Thence  back  to  Tripoli  3  M. 

On  the  Sherrashhet,  the  road  leading  from  Dahra  (p.  410)  near  the 
soast,  are  several  country-houses  and  (about  2  M.)  the  largest  Mohammedan 
Cemetery,  containing  two  dilapidated  domed  tombs  (of  the  Karamanli 
dynasty,  p.  408),  visible  from  Tripoli.  Near  it,  close  to  the  sea,  is  the 
Protestant  Cemetery,  where  we  have  a  charming  view  of  Tripoli.  About 
7>/a  M.  farther,  on  the  caravan-route  to  Lebida  (p.  412),  are  the  village  of 
Melaha  and  the  oasis  of  Tajura,  with  its  colonnaded  mosque. 

The  W.  end  of  the  Menshia  is  l'/a  M.  from  the  town.  We  may  thence 
cross  the  undulating  steppe,  past  several  mud-built  forts,  to  the  small 
oasis  of  (4Va  M.)  Gergdrish,  with  its  old  sandstone  quarries  and  ruined 
watch-tower  (Gasr  Jehali,  tower  of  the  ignorant),  originally  Roman. 


From  Tripoli  the  steamer  proceeds  to  the  N.N.E.  to  Malta 
(p.  399).  Off  the  abrupt  S.  coast  of  the  island,  with  its  numerous 
caves,  lies  the  uninhabited  rocky  islet  of  Filfolo.;  which  forms  a 
target  for  the  artillery  practice  of  the  British  Mediterranean  fleet 
(p.  399).  Farther  on  we  obtaiu  a  striking  view  of  the  barren  E.  coast, 
with  the  bay  of  Marsa  Scirocco,  bounded  by  Benhisa  Point  and 
Delimara  Point.    On  a  height  rises  the  old  Fort  St.  Lucian. 

Beyond  St.  Thomas's  Bay,  with  the  old  castle  of  St.  Thomas 
and  the  bay  of  Marsa  Scala,  the  steamer  rounds  the  Ponta  tal 
Zonkor,  the  N.E.  point  of  the  island,  and  soon  reaches  the  entrance 
to  the  Grand  Harbour  of  Valletta  (comp.  p.  399). 

The  Voyage  to  Syracuse  is  performed  at  night.  We  steer  to 
the  N.N.E.  towards  Cape  Passero  (the  ancient  Promontorium 
Pachynum),  the  fissured  headland  at  the  S.E.  point  of  Sicily, 
with  its  lighthouse  and  two  small  harbours  (Porto  d'  Ulisse  and 
Porto  Palo). 

Next,  on  the  E.  coast  of  Sicily,  stands  forth  the  Penisola  della 
Maddalena  (177  ft.),  once  a  coast-island  but  now  joined  to  the 
main  island  by  the  deposits  of  the  Ciani  and  Anapo.  It  ends  in 
the  Capo  Murro  di  Porco,  with  a  lighthouse  on  the  top. 

Entrance  to  the  harbour  of  Syracuse,  see  p.  162. 

Bakdukre's  Mediterranean.  27 


412 


65.  Prom  Tripoli  to  Alexandria  via 
Benghazi  and  Derna. 

Steamboats  (agents  at  Tripoli,  see  p.  406;  at  Alexandria,  see  p.  432). 

1.  German  Levant  Line  (cargo-boats),  three  times  monthly  (80  marks).— 

2.  Steamers  of  the  Banco  di  Roma  (p.  406)  fortnightly  via  Malta,  Benghazi, 
Derna,  and  Solum.  — Between  Tripoli,  Lebida  (occasionally),  Mesurata, 
Benghazi,  and  Derna  there  plies  a  fortnightly  steamer  of  the  Societa 
Nazionale  (comp.  R.  66). 

Tripoli,  see  p.  406.  Skirting  the  flat,  sandy  coast,  with  its 
numerous  oases,  including  that  of  Tajilra  (p.  411),  we  pass  the 
small  Rds  Sutara,  Rds  el-Hamra  ('red  cape'),  and  Rds  Ligata. 

In  the  fertile  undulating  plain  to  the  E.  of  the  small  port  of 
Ligata  (lighthouse;  sailing-boat  from  Tripoli  in  about  7  hrs.  if 
the  wind  is  favourable)  lies  Lebida,  Lebda,  or  Khoms  (pop.  3500 ; 
Brit,  vice-cons.),  in  its  oasis,  a  poor  little  seaport  (for  alfa)  with 
open  roads,  relics  of  old  fortifications,  and  an  Italian  school. 

About  2  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Lebida  lies  the  site  of  Leptis  Magna, 
which  fell  into  decay  after  the  first  irruption  of  the  Arabs.  In  ancient 
times  it  was  one  of  the  richest  trading  towns  in  N.  Africa.  It  was  the 
starting-point  of  the  coast-road  to  Carthage  (see  p.  407)  and  also  of  the 
Limes  Tripolitanus,  the  Roman  frontier-wall,  which  down  to  the  conquest 
of  the  Garamantes  (p.  407)  and  the  Gajtuli  in  the  2nd  and  3rd  cent.  A.!>. 
protected  the  province  of  Africa  against  the  Sahara  tribes.  The  ancient 
harbour,  with  its  massive  quays,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kinyps,  which 
was  a  copious  stream  in  the  Roman  age  (now  a  scanty  brook,  the  Oued 
Lebda),  is  completely  choked  with  sand.  The  once  famous  oasis  and  the 
grand  ruins  of  the  time  of  Septimius  Severus  (p.  407)  also,  except  the 
triumphal  arch  (comp.  pp.  315,  316),   are  almost  entirely  buried  in  sand. 

On  the  rocky  coast,  which  here  endangers  navigation,  we  next 
pass  the  Rds  et-Tabia,  adjoined  by  the  little  port  of  Marsa 
Ugra,  and  then,  situated  in  the  oasis  near  the  Rds  es-Sahal, 
Sliten  or  Zelythen  (pop.  7000),  a  seaport  for  alfa.  Beyond  the 
Rds  el-lhudi  we  sight  Cape  Mesurata,  the  ancient  Promontorium 
Trikeron  ('triple  horn')  or  Cephalus,  a  striking  landmark. 

The  small  port  of  Mesurata  or  Misrdta  (pop.  3000),  in  its 
little  oasis  of  palms,  fruit,  and  olives,  is  noted  for  its  carpets  and 
woven  stuffs. 

Leaving  the  coast  we  now  steer  to  the  E.  across  the  Syrtis 
Major,  or  Gulf  of  Sidra,  the  largest  on  the  N.  African  seaboard. 

The  town  of  Benghazi  or  Bengdsi  (Albcrgo  Maffei,  near  the 
harbour,  Italian;  Brit,  consul,  J.  F.  Jones;  pop.  20,000,  incl.  1200 
Europeans,  mostly  Maltese  and  Greeks,  and  2500  Jews;  garrison 
3000)  is  the  capital  of  the  Turkish  province  (mutessariflik)  of 
Benghazi  or  Barca,  which  was  separated  from  Tripolitania  in 
1869.  Its  dazzling  white  houses  extend  beyond  the  isthmus  of  the 
Sebkha  or  salt-lake  (with  its  large  evaporating  grounds)  and  over 
the  broad  corn-growing  coast-plain  bordering  the  plateau  of  Merj 
(p.  414).    The  large  Gasar  or  castle,  now  the  seat  of  the  governor 


CYRENAICA.  es.  Route.      1 1 .; 

(mutessarif),  with  barracks,  together  with  the   lighthouse  and  a 
windmill,  l'orm  the  chief  landmarks  as  we  make  for  the  harbour. 

The  harbour,  much  silted  up  and  very  imperfectly  protected 
ii\  an  unfinished  breakwater,  is  sometimes  rendered  inaccessible 
for  months  in  winter  by  the  prevailing  \V.  gales.  The  steamers 
have  to  lie  to,  under  steam,  some  3  M.  off  the  coast,  and  passengers 
are  landed  in  lighters  or  in  rowing-boats. 

The  chief  sight  is  the  Market  Quarter,  where  caravans  from 
llie  interior  are  sometimes  met  with.  The  minarets,  as  at  Tripoli, 
are  in  the  Turkish  style.  The  European  colony  is  mainly  Maltese, 
Greek,  and  Italian.  The  Italian  School  is  attended  chiefly  by 
Jewish  children.  A  branch  of  the  Banco  di  Roma  (p.  406)  and 
an  Italian  Post  Office  have  been  recently  established.  —  To  the  E. 
of  the  town  is  a  beautiful  Palm  Grove. 

To  the  N.E.  of  Benghazi  lie  the  ruins  of  Euhesperidue,  or  Berenice,  as 
the  town  was  called  after  the  wife  of  Ptolemy  III.  Euhesperida;,  famed 
in  Greek  myth  for  the  gardens  of  the  Hesperides,  was  the  westmost  seaport- 
town  of  Barca,  the  ancient  Cyrenaica,  a  fissured  hill-region  rising  in  ter- 
races from  the  sea,  which  was  colonized  in  the  7th  cent.  B.C.  by  Greeks, 
mostly  Dorians  from  Thera  (p.  417)  and  Crete  (p.  415).  From  its  loftily 
A  capital  Gyrene  i\>-  411),  one  of  the  richest  and  most  brilliant 
cities  in  the  Greek  world^  Greek  culture  spread  rapidly  over  the  whole 
coast-region,  where  the  numerous  seaports  acquired  also  great  wealth 
through  the  caravan-traliie  with  the  interior.  For  a  time  (about 400-330  B.( 
the  Cyrenians  succeeded  in  repelling  the  attacks  of  the  Carthaginians 
with  their  mighty  Meet,  but  in  322  they  succumbed  to  Ptolemy  I.  (p.  433), 
who  united  the  different  parts  of  the  district  under  the  name  of  Penta- 
polis  ('five  cities').  In  96  B.C.  this  region  along  with  the  Marmarica 
p.  115)  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Romans,  and  it  was  united  by  Augustus 
with  Crete  as  a  Roman  province.  In  the  great  revolt  of  the  numerous 
Jews  who  had  settled  in  Egypt  and  Barca  in  the  Ptolemaic  age,  200,000 
Greeks  and  Romans  are  said  to  have  perished  in  Trajan's  reign.  This 
terriblo  disaster  was  followed  by  the  irruption  of  Berber  tribes  and  of 
Arab  marauders,  and  later  (after  1551)  by  the  misgovernmont  of  the 
Turks.  The  ruin  of  the  country  was  completed  by  a  gradual  subsidence 
of  the  coast  which  seriously  prejudiced  navigation.  Though  well  supplied 
with  rain,  extremely  fertile,  and  not  too  hot  in  summer,  this  region  is 
now  hut  thinly  peopled  (about  500,000),  and  the  only  towns  of  any  size  are 
Benghazi,  Merj  (p.  414),  and  Derna  (p.  411).  The  highlands  are  occupied 
by  hordes  of  nomadic  Arabs,  who  often  defy  the  Turkish  authorities, 
and  who  are  largely  under  the  inliuence  of  the  fanatical  brotherhood 
of  the  Senussiyeh.  The  convents  of  the  sect  serve  also  as  caravanserais. 
European  goods  are  conveyed  by  the  caravan-route  to  Kufra,  the  head- 
quarters of  the  sect,  and  thence  to  equatorial  Africa.  Fire-arms  are 
frequently  smuggled  into  the  country,  especially  from  Greece.  The  chief 
exports  are  cattle  (to  Malta,  Syracuse,  etc.),  goatskins,  barley  (to  Eng- 
land), wool  (to  Marseilles  and  Genoa),  and  butter  (to  Constantinople). 
Large  Hocks  of  sheep  are  driven  overland  into  Egypt. 

Beyond  Benghazi  the  steamer  rounds  lids  Adrian,  whose  name 
recalls  the  town  of  Adrianopolis  founded  by  Hadrian.  On  a  height, 
farther  on,  appears  Tokra,  a  poor  village  near  the  ruins  of  the 
Greek  twin-towns  of  Taucliira  (Teuchira)  and  Arsinoe. 

The  next  place  on  the  coast,  at  the  foot  of  a  chain  of  high  hills 
overgrown  with  brushwood,  is  Tolmeiia  (Ital.  Tolemdide),  the  an- 

27* 


414     Route  65.  CYRENE. 

cient  Ptolemais  or  Tolometta,  now  the  site  of  imposing  *Ruins 
(Greek,  Roman,  and  early-Christian).  The  Greek  Kothon  was  the 
harbour  of  Barca,  a  thriving  Greek  colony  on  the  margin  of  the 
plateau,  about  15  M.  inland,  founded  about  540  B.C.  and  temporarily 
destroyed  by  the  Persians  in  510.  The  town  was  still  a  place  of  some 
importance  in  the  middle  ages  as  a  military  station  and  a  resting- 
place  for  Mecca  pilgrims,  but  now,  under  the  name  of  Merj  or 
Medinet  el- Merj,  which  has  been  given  to  the  whole  province, 
it  has  become  a  poor  little  Turkish  garrison-town,  inhabited  by 
Arabs  and  Jews.    No  trace  of  its  ruins  is  left. 

Passing  the  rocky  islet  of  Sarat  and  Rds  el-Hamdma,  the 
ancient  cape  Phycus,  we  reach  the  bold  Rds  Sera,  the  north  must 
point  of  Barca,  about  10  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Cyrene  (see  below). 

In  a  small  plain  on  the  coast,  between  the  Ras  Sem  and  Rds 
el-Hilil  (the  ancient  Nauslathmus),  lies  the  poor  seaport  of  Marsa 
Susa,  recently  colonized  by  Moslems  from  Crete.  Near  it  are  the 
ruins  of  Apollonia  (later  Sozoxjolis),  once  the  harbour  of  Cyrene, 
but  destroyed  by  the  silting  up  of  the  coast. 

From  Marsa  Susa  a  mule-track  ascends  to  the  S.W.,  through 
valleys  with  luxuriant  vegetation  and  venerable  olive-groves,  past 
several  ancient  rock-hewn  Granaries,  and  past  a  *  Necropolis  with 
countless  rock-tombs,  to  (3-4  hrs.)  the  ruins  of  Cyrene  (2002  ft. ; 
now  Krennah  or  Gurena),  lying  on  the  edge  of  a  lofty  plateau, 
with  fine  views  all  around.  This  was  the  capital  of  the  Cyrenaica, 
founded  near  the  fountain  of  Cyra  about  620  B.C.,  but  already 
spoken  of  in  the  4th  cent.  A.D.  as  'urbs  deserta'.  The  ruins  have 
not  yet  been  scientifically  explored,  but  there  are  traces  of  streets, 
and,  beneath  a  mantle  of  dense  vegetation,  scanty  remains  of  the 
acropolis,  the  temples,  and  a  Roman  circus.  Near  them  is  a  convent 
of  the  Seimssiyeh,  to  which  unbelievers  are  not  admitted. 

About  10  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Marsa  Snsa,  on  the  caravan-route  to 
(ruba  (or  Mara),  once  lay  the  town  of  Ghermes,  whose  *Euins  are  the 
best  preserved  in  the  Cyrenaica  (town-wall,  forum,  stadium,  etc.). 

Beyond  the  bay  of  Marsa  el-Hilil  the  coast  is  again  rocky. 
Near  a  beautiful,  richly  wooded  ravine  are  the  ruins  of  Erythrum. 
We  next  steer  past  Rds  Turba  and  then  round  the  little  Tsor 
Kersa  Islands  and  the  Rds  Boasa  (lighthouse). 

Derna  (pop.  4000),  the  Darnis  or  Darnae  of  antiquity,  a 
small  seaport  to  the  E.  of  the  headland,  but  entirely  destitute  of  a 
harbour,  is  now  the  chief  trading  town  in  E.  Cyrenaica.  Vessels 
anchor  in  the  open  sea,  over  a  mile  from  the  landing-place.  Near 
the  Turkish  fort  and  the  custom-house  are  remains  of  American 
fortifications  (comp.  p.  408)  and  a  wireless  telegraph-station. 

The  town  itself  lies  on  a  plateau  in  the  finest  *  Coast  Oasis  of 
Barca  (yielding  dates,  figs,  almonds,  tobacco,  etc.).  In  the  principal 
square,  near  which  the  camel-caravans  from  the  interior  encamp, 


CRETE.  S6.  Route.     415 

is  the  unpretending  residence  of  the  Turkish  kaimakam.  The  shops 
in  the  busy  market-street  are  mostly  owned  by  Arabs  and  Greeks. 

Beyond  the  Rds  el-Tin  (Gr.  CJiersonesos),  the  coast  recedes 
far  to  the  S.  The  Ghdf  of  Bomba,  with  its  rocky  islands,  here 
forms  a  large  natural  harbour,  open  towards  the  E.  only.  Beyond 
Menelaus  Island  (now  Susra  Mesrdta)  once  lay  the  Portus  Mene- 
lai.  The  Plaiea  Island  near  it  received  from  Thera,  about  640  B.C., 
the  first  Greek  colony  in  the  Cyrenaica. 

We  neit  skirt  the  Marmarica,  the  coast-region  between  the 
gulfs  of  Bomba  and  Solum.  In  the  deep-set  bay  of  Tobruk  (the 
ancient  Antipyrgos)  it  possesses  the  best  natural  harbour  between 
Bizerta  and  Alexandria,  frequented  chiefly  by  sponge-fishers. 

The  featureless  and  inconspicuous  coast  of  Egypt  is  bounded 
by  the  low  white  duues  near  the  borders  of  the  Libyan  desert. 
Lastly  we  steer  across  the  broad  so-called  Arabian  Gulf,  between 
the  Rds  ed-Dabba  and  the  Nile  Delta  (p.  418),  and  enter  the  har- 
bour of  Alexandria  (comp.  p.  418). 


66.  Prom  Tripoli  to  Constantinople  via 
Derna  and  Crete. 

Between  Tripoli  and  Constantinople  there  is  a  fortnightly  service  by 
the  Societa,  Nazionale  (Line  VIII:  Catania,  Syracuse,  Benghazi,  Constan- 
tinople; comp.  K.  64).  Dep.  from  Tripoli  every  second  Mon.  aft.,  from 
Mesurata  Tues.  morn.,  from  Benghazi  Thurs.,  from  Derna  Prid.  noon, 
from  Canea  Sat.  night,  from  Candia  Sun.,  from  Smyrna  Mon.  midnight. 
arr.  at  Constantinople  Wed.  morn,  (returning  from  Constantinople  Mon. 
night,  arr.  at  Tripoli  the  second  Wed.);  fare  117  fr.  60  or  78  fr.  40  c. — 
From  Canea  to  the  Piraeus  (for  Athens)  there  are  corresponding  steamers 
of  the  Russian  Steam  Navigation  &  Trading  Co.,  of  the  Thessalian  line 
of  the  Austrian  Lloyd,  and  of  Line  X  (p.  493)  of  the  Societa  Nazionale. 

For  the  voyage  from  Tripoli  to  Derna,  see  R.  65.  The  steamer 
next  touches  at  Crete  (Gr.  Krete,  Turk.  Kirid,  Ital.  Candia),  the 
fourth-largest  island  in  the  Mediterranean  (5402  sq.  M. ;  303,550 
inhab.),  formerly  Turkish,  but  nominally  independent  since  190s. 

Nearing  the  island  we  first  sight  the  Aspra  Vund  (Madaraes 
Mis.,  7907  ft.),  generally  snow-clad,  the  ancient Lenka  Ore  (White 
Mis.).  The  vessel  steers  round  Cape  Krio,  the  S.W.  point  of  Crete, 
and  Cape  Busa,  the  N.W.  point,  and  passes  the  island  oiGrabnsa. 

We  next  proceed  to  the  E.N.E.,  past  Kisamo  Bay  and  Cape 
Spada  (Psakon),  the  N.  point  of  the  island.  Beyond  the  cape 
opens  the  broad  Bay  of  Canea  (Gr.  Chania). 

In  favourable  weather  the  steamer  anchors  in  the  open  roads 
of  Canea  (Hot.  de  France,  pens.  8-10  fr. ;  Hot.-Restaur.  Bristol, 
pens.  5-8  fr. ;  at  both  it  is  advisable  to  ask  charges;  Brit,  cons.-gen., 
R.  Peel;  pop.  21,000),  the  capital  of  Crete,  on  the  site  of  Kydonia. 
The  remains  of  the  Venetian  fortifications  are  interesting.    Fine 


416     Route  66.  CANDIA.  From  Tripoli 

view  from  the  lofty  reservoir  of  the  waterworks.   Most  of  the  con- 
suls reside  at  Chalepa,  the  E.  suburb. 

In  stormy  weather  the  steamers  round  the  broad  headland  of 
Akrotiri  (once  Kyamori)  and  anchor  in  Suda  Bay,  the  only  good 
harbour  in  the  island.    (Road  to  Canea.) 

After  leaving  Canea  and  passing  Cape  Drepano  we  have  a 
pleasant  view  of  Harmyro  Bay  und  Rethymno,  Ital.  Ultimo 
(pop.  9300),  the  ancient  Rhithymna,  now  the  third-largest  town 
in  Crete.  In  the  heart  of  the  island  tower  the  Psiloriti  Mts.}  the 
ancient  Ida,  often  snow-clad,  culminating  in  the  Siavros  (8065  ft.). 

Farther  on  we  pass  Cape  Stavros,  an  important  landmark.  We 
then  steer  to  the  S.E.,  between  Cape  Panaghia  and  the  barren 
island  of  Dia,  Ital.  Sfandia  (870  ft.),  where  vessels  seek  refuge 
from  northerly  storms,  into  Candia  Bay  and  anchor  in  the  roads 
a  little  off  the  quay  (lighthouse). 

Candia  (Hotels,  both  near  the  landing-place :  Cnossos,  pens. 
9-15  fr.,  with  restaurant;  Angleterre,  rooms  only,  unpretending ; 
advisable  to  ask  charges  at  both;  Brit,  vice-cons.,  A.  Calocherino; 
pop.  22,480),  Gr.  Herdkleion,  formerly  Megalokastron,  the  seat 
of  the  Metropolitan  of  Crete,  is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  the 
Moors  on  the  site  of  Herakleion,  the  port  of  Knossos.  Here  also 
the  fortifications  were  built  by  the  Venetians,  and  were  bravely 
defended  by  their  admiral  Franc.  Morosini  against  the  Turks  for 
three  years  until  he  had  to  capitulate  in  1669. 

We  walk  from  the  landing-place  through  the  main  street  and 
past  a  handsome  Venetian  palace  to  the  chief  square,  with  the 
Morosini  Fountain.  Straight  on  we  come,  at  the  E.  end  of  the 
town,  to  an  open  space,  at  the  N.E.  angle  of  which  is  the  — 

*  Museum,  containing  the  splendid  antiquities  excavated  at 
Knossos  and  elsewhere,  illustrating  the  peculiar  development  of 
art  in  Crete  at  its  prime.  The  oldest  objects  belong  to  the  so- 
called  island  culture  (3rd  millenary  B.C.)  of  the  bronze  period,  or 
early  and  middle  Minoan  periods,  as  they  are  now  called  after 
Minos  the  legendary  king  of  Crete.  To  the  bronze  age  belong  also 
the  pre-Hellenic  antiquities,  those  namely  of  the  so-called  Mycenaean 
or  late  Minoan  period  (middle  of  2nd  millenary  B.C.),  which  are  . 
hardly  surpassed  by  the  creations  of  Greece  at  its  zenith.  Partic- 
ular notice  should  be  taken  of  the  wall-paintings,  fragments  of  a 
procession,  stone  vases  with  reliefs,  ivory  statuettes  of  bull-baiters, 
and  the  two  fayence  figures  of  a  goddess  grasping  a  snake. 

From  the  old  S.  gate  of  Candia  a  road  (horse  3-4  fr.)  leads  in 
less  than  an  hour  to  the  site  of  Knossos,  the  ancient  capital  of  the 
island.  The  *King's  Palace,  excavated  here  since  1898  by  Mr. 
Arthur  Evans,  dates  from  the  second  or  middle  Minoan  period,  but 
was  already  half  burned  down  in  the  Mycenaean  period. 

The  steamer  next  crosses  the  Cretan  Sea,  to  the  N.N.E.,  to  two 


to  Constantinople.  CANDIA.  66.  Route.     J  j  7 

islands  of  the  Cyclades  (p.  492) :  Anaphe  (1349  ft.)  aud  Sanforin 
or  Thira  (1857  ft.),  the  ancient  Thera.  Close  to  Cape  Oia  (light- 
house) ou  the  beautiful  island  of  Santorin,  which  is  the  relic  of  an 
old  crater  (p.  492),  are  seen  the  ruins  of  Thera,  the  ancient  capital. 

Next,  on  the  left,  we  sight  the  island  of  16s  or  Nios  (2408  ft.). 
Wo  Llicn  pass  through  the  strait  between  Amorgos  (1233  ft.;  light- 
house), the  eastmost  island  of  the  kingdom  of  Greece,  and  the  small 
island  group  of  Eremonisia,  flanking  Naxos  on  the  S.E.  side. 

The  high  mountains  of  Naxos  (3289  ft.),  the  largest  of  the 
Cyclades,  remain  in  sight  long  after  we  have  passed  the  islet  of 
Donusa  (1600  ft.).  The  islands  of  Delos,  once  the  religious  and 
economic  centre  of  the  Cyclades,  and  Mykonos  (1194  ft.)  are  only 
visible  in  the  far  distance  in  very  clear  weather. 

The  ship  presently  nears  the  W.  coast  of  Nikaria  (p.  492),  an 
island  belonging  to  the  S.  Sporades  (p.  490),  aud  then  (as  do  also 
the  steamers  from  the  Levant)  passes  through  the  Strait  of  Chics 
(p.  492)  aud  across  the  Ghtlf  of  Smyrna  (comp.  p.  530). 

Smyrna,  and  thence  to  Constantinople,  see  pp.  530,  533-536. 

67.  From  (Marseilles,   Genoa)  Naples  to 
Alexandria  and  Port  Said. 

1174  or  1278  M.  Steamers  (agents  at  Marseilles,  see  p.  120;  at  Genoa, 
p.  114;   at  Naples,    p.  137;   at  Alexandria,  p.  432;    at  Port  Said,  p.  437). 

1.  North  German  Lloyd:  (a)  from  (Marseilles)  Naples  to  Alexandria,  in 
Jan. -April,  on  Frid.  at  noon  (from  Marseilles  on  Wed.  aft.)  in  4  days; 
returning  from  Alexandria  Wed.  aft.  (from  Naples  Sat.);  fares  from 
Naples  240-480  or  140-180  marks  (from  Marseilles  280-520  or  160-200  marks) ; 

(b)  E.Asiatic  Line  (R.  2-1),  from  (Algiers,  Genoa)  Naples  to  Port  Said 
every  second  Frid.  night  (returning  Frid.),  in  4  days;  fare  242  or  176  marks; 

(c)  Australian  Line  (R.  21),  from  (Genoa)  Naples  to  Port  Said  every  fourth 
Wed.  night   (returning  Frid.),    in   3-4  days;    fare  242   or   170   marks. — 

2.  German  E.  African  Line:  E.  circular  tour  (RR.  17,  23)  from  (Marseilles) 
Naples  to  Port  Said  every  third  Mon.  in  4  days;  W.  circular  tour  (RR.  4, 
17,  23)  from  Port  Said  to  Naples  every  third  Sat. ;  fare  212  or  176  marks. 

—  3.  Rotterdam  Lloyd,  Batavia  Line,  from  Marseilles  every  second  Thus. 
direct  to  Port  Said  (returning  Tues.)  in  5  days.  —  4.  Kederland  Royal  Mail, 
Batavia  Line,  from  Genoa  direct  to  Port  Said  in  5  days.  —  5.  Messageries 
Maritimes,  S.  Mediterranean  Liue,  from  Marseilles  direct  to  Alexandria 
(Port  Said,  Jaffa,  Beirut,  It.  72),  every  Thurs.  noon  (returning  Frid.  aft.), 
in  4  days:  fare  815  or  210  fr. ;  return-ticket  ('interchangeable'),  available 
also  for  the  quick  boats  of  the  Austrian  Lloyd  (R.  68),  603»/-2  or  433'/4  fr. 

—  6.  Sodetu  Kazionale,  Line  V  (Genoa  to  Alexandria),  from  (Genoa, 
Leghorn)  Naples  on  Thurs.  aft.  to  Alexandria  (returning  Thurs.  aft.),  in 
1  davs;  fare  252  or  172'/»  fr. 

The  great  liners  of  the  P.  &0.,  Orient  Royal,  Royal  Mail,  White  Star, 
Bibby,  and  other  British  companies  are  almost  exclusively  for  through-pas- 
sengers from  Gibraltar  or  Marseilles  to  Port  Said,  India,  Australia,  etc. 

Prom  Marseilles  and  Genoa  to  Naples,  see  KR.  23,  24;  from 
Naples  to  the  Straits  of  Messina,  see  R.  27. 

On  the  left,  beyond  Messina,  are  seen  the  ruins  of  Reggio  (p. 159), 
al  the  foot  of  the  Aspromonte,  the  S.  point  of  Calabria. 


418     Route  61.  LAKE  MENZALEH. 

Leaving  the  Straits  of  Messina,  we  steer  across  the  Ionian  Sea, 
to  the  E.S.E.,  in  a  direct  line  for  Egypt.  Mt.JEtna  (p.  159)  remains 
long  in  sight.  For  two  days  we  lose  sight  of  land.  The  mountains 
of  Crete  (p.  415)  are  visible  on  the  voyage  to  Alexandria  only  in 
perfectly  clear  weather;  but  on  the  voyage  to  Port  Said  we  pass 
within  a  few  miles  of  Crete  and  near  the  island  of  Gavdos,  Ital. 
Gozo  (1063  ft. ;  lighthouse),  which  flanks  Crete  on  the  S.W. 

On  the  Alexandria  Voyage,  nearing  land,  we  overlook  the 
long  isthmus  of  Lake  Mareotis  (p.  432),  from  the  sand-hill  near 
Abusir,  on  the  E.  shore  of  the  Arabian  Gulf  (p.  415),  to  Ramleh 
(p.  436)  and  Fort  Abukir  on  the  W.  shore  of  that  gulf.  The  chief 
landmarks  are  the  lighthouse  of  Rds  et-Tin  (p.  434)  and  Fort 
Cafarelli  or  Napoleon  (p.  434). 

We  pass  Hi  rough  the  strait  of  Boghaz,  amidst  the  chain  of  cliffs 
between  Ras  et-Tin  and  the  fortified  Marabout  Island,  and  sight 
the  two  lighthouses  of  El-Meks  in  succession.  Lastly  we  steer 
through  the  outer  harbour,  with  its  breakwater,  and  past  the  New 
or  Gabbari  Mole  (Mole  aux  Charbons),  1000  yds.  long,  into  the 
inner  harbour  of  Alexandria  (comp.  p.  434). 


On  the  Pout  Said  Voyage  the  flat  coast  of  Egypt  is  generally 
approached  at  night.  We  first  sight  the  lights  of  Damietta,  on  the 
E.  bank  of  the  Damietta  branch  of  the  Nile,  the  ancient  Phatnitic 
Arm.  This  and  the  Rosetta  arm  are  now  the  only  mouths  of  the 
river,  which  had  seven  in  ancient  times. 

A  conspicuous  landmark  is  Fort  Jemil,  between  the  former 
Mendesian  and  Tanitic  mouths.  It  rises  on  the  low  downs  flanking 
Lake  Menzaleh  (970  sq.  M.),  the  largest  lagoon  in  the  Nile  delta. 

The  entrance  to  Port  Said  (p.  436),  766  yds.  in  breadth,  is 
marked  by  a  lighthouse,  several  minor  lights,  and  a  number  of 
buoys.    On  the  W.  pier  (r.)  rises  the  Lesseps  monument  (p.  437). 

68.  From  Venice  or  Trieste  to  Alexandria 
and  Port  Said  via  Brindisi. 

Between  Venice  and  Alexandria  (1423  M.),  Societa  Nazionale  (Line 
VII :  Venice,  Alexandria,  Port  Said)  on  the  14th  and  28th  of  every  month 
(returning  1st  and  15th),  via  Ancona,  Bari,  and  Brindisi,  in  5-6  davs; 
fare  280  fr.  95  or  191  fr.  30  c.  (from  Brindisi  195  fr.  25  or  132  fr.  15  c). 
Agents  at  Venice,  see  p.  420;   at  Brindisi,  p.  429;    at  Alexandria,  p.  432. 

Between  Trieste  and  Alexandria  (1383  M.),  Austrian  Lloyd,  two 
lines:  1st.  Quick  steamer  from  Trieste  on  Thurs.  noon  (from  Brindisi 
Frid.  aft.),  in  ca.  4  days  (returning  from  Alexandria  Sat.  aft.,  from  Brindisi 
Tues.  foren.);  fare  360  or  245  fr.  (from  Brindisi  300  or  200  fr.).  2nd. 
Trieste  and  Syria  Line  (K.  72),  on  Sat.  foren.,  via  Gravosa  (occasionally)  and 
Brindisi,  in  5  days  (returning  Thurs.  aft.) ;  fare  250  or  175  fr.  (from  Brindisi 
200  or  135  fr.).  Agents  at  Trieste,  see  p.  425;  at  Brindisi,  p.  429;  at  Alex- 
andria, p.  432. 

Between  Trieste  and  Port  Said,  Austrian  Lloyd,  Syrian  Line,  see 
above;  also  the  Bombay  steamers  (usually  1st  and  16th  of  every  month;  to 


CAN.  ^-^^PfB-SHt^'^ 


luaixui 


Practical  Note$.  VENICE.  68.  Route.     419 

Port  Said  in  4  days),  the  Calcutta  steamers  (12th  and  25th  of  each  mouth; 
6  d:iys),  and  the  Japan  steamers  (27th  of  each  month;  6  days).  Agent  at 
Port  Said,  see  p.  437. 

From  Brindisi  to  Port  Said,  P.  &  O.  on  Sun.  morn.,  corresponding  with 
Calais  and  Brindisi  express,  chiefly  for  through-passengers  to  India. 

Venice.  —  At  the  Railway  Station  (PI.  0,  D,  3;  Restaurant,  good), 
where  care  of  heavier  luggage  may  be  left  to  the  hotel  porters,  are  a  gon- 
dola station  and  two  piers  for  the  local  steamers  (see  below).  —  Agents 
for  sleeping-cars,  Thos.  Cook  &  Son  and  P.  Faerber  (see  p.  420). 

Arrival  "by  Sea.  The  steamers  anchor  in  the  Canale  di  San  Marco, 
opposite  the  Punta  della  Salute  (PI.  G,  6).  Custom-house  examination  on 
board.    Gondola  tariff,  see  below. 

Hotels.  Hot.  Royal  Danieli  (PI.  a;  H,  5),  on  the  Riva  degli  Schia- 
voni  with  its  fine  views,  R.  7-30,  B.  2,  dej.  4,  D.  7-10,  pens.  15-25  fr. ; 
*1IGt.  de  l'Europe  (PI.  b;  G,  6),  on  the  Canal  Grande,  entrance  Calle 
del  Ridotto,  R.  5-8,  B.  2,  dej.  5,  D.  7,  pens.  14-18  fr.,  frequented  by  Amer- 
ican and  French  travellers ;  Grand-Hotel  (PI.  0 ;  F,  6),  on  the  Canal  Grande, 
entr.  Via  Ventidue  Marzo,  Eamo  Minotto  2322,  R.  7-30,  B.  l'/2,  dej.  4,  D. 
7fr.;  *Gk.-H6t.  Britannia  (PI.  c;  G,  6),  also  on  the  Canal  Grande,  entr. 
Corte  Barozzi,  similar  charges;  four  high-class  houses. — Less  pretending: 
*Gr.-H6t.  d'Italie  (PI.  h;  G,  6),  in  Campo  San  Moise  and  on  the  Canal 
Grande,  R.  3V2-15,  B.  H/2,  dej.  31/2,  D.  5-6  fr.,  often  full;  *Grand  Canal 
Hotel  &  Monaco  (PI.  1;  G,  6),  on  the  Canal  Grande,  entr.  Calle  Valla- 
resso,  R.  from  5.  B.  l'/2,  dej.  4,  D.  6  fr.;  *Hot.  Reoina  (PI.  t;  G,  6),  also 
on  the  Caual  Grande,  entr.  Calle  Traghetto,  R.  5-18,  B.  li/s,  dej.  8Va,  D.  5  fr., 
frequented  by  English  and  American  travellers ;  Hot.  de  Milan  &  Bristol 
(PI.  u;  G,  6),  also  on  the  Canal  Grande,  entr.  Calle  Traghetto,  R.  from  4, 
B.  1'/-,  dej.  3-31/2,  D.  41/2-5  fr.;  H6r.  Beao-Rivage  (PI.  r;  H,  I,  5),  Riva 
degli  Schiavoni,  R.  from  4,  B.  li/a,  dej.  4,  D.  5  fr.,  patronized  by  English 
and  American  travellers. 

Restaurants.  *  Bauer -Griinwald,  Via  Ventidue  Marzo,  adjoining 
the  Gr.-H6t.  d'Italie;  Pilsen,  in  the  Moderne  Hot.  Manin,  N.W.  corner  of 
the  Piazza  of  St.  Mark. 

Caf6s.  Florian,  Aurora,  Quadri,  all  in  the  Piazza  of  St.  Mark. — 
Tea  Room.     Ortes,  Via  Ventidue  Marzo  2288. 

Gondolas,  the  famous  and  picturesque  boats  which  are  the  cabs  of 
Venice,  have  their  chief  station  on  the  Molo  (PL  H,  6;  p.  422).  Tariff: 
in  the  town,  per  hour,  1-2  pers.  li/2,  3-4  pers.  2,  5-6  pers.  2l/2  fr.  (after 
dusk  i/2  fr.  extra);  half  these  charges  for  each  addit.  i/2  hr. ;  from  the  Moio 
to  the  sea-going  steamers,  or  the  reverse,  20  c.  each  passenger;  trunk  20, 
small  packages  5  c.  —  A  boat  with  two  gondolieri  costs  double.  (As  a 
rule  one,  'basta  uno',  is  enough.)  In  case  of  dispute  with  the  boatmen, 
often  insolent  and  especially  towards  ladies  travelling  alone,  a  vigile 
municipale  (policeman)  may  be  applied  to. 

The  Local  Steamers  (Vaporetti  Comunali),  which  do  not  carry 
luggage,  ply  (except  in  fog)  on  the  main  line  through  the  Canal  Grande 
every  10-15  min.,  from  G  a.  m.  till  midnight;  fare  10,  to  the  Lido  20  c. 
(money  changed  on  board  ;  fare  paid  on  landing).  The  chief  landing-stages 
(Pontoni),  beginning  from  the  station,  are:  1.  Scalzi  (PI.  D,  3),  near  the 
exit  from  the  station;  2.  Cerva,  Riva  del  Carbon  (PL  G,  4),  for  the  Rialto 
bridge  (p.  421)  and  streets  (p.  421)  leading  to  St.  Mark's;  3.  San  Toma 
(PL  E,  5),  for  the  church  of  the  Frari  (p.  422);  4.  Accademia  (PL  E,  6), 
for  the  picture-gallery  (p.  422);  5.  San  Marco  (PL  G,  6;  near  the  Calle 
Vallaresso),  for  St.  Mark's;  6.  San  Zaccaria  (PL  H,  5),  for  the  Riva  degli 
Schiavoni  and  St.  Mark's;  7.  Giardini  Pubblici  (PL  L,  7);  8.  Lido  (p.  424; 
April-Oet.  only).  In  the  reverse  direction  the  steamers  call  at  the  Riva 
del  Carbon  (PL  G,  4)  instead  of  Cerva,  and  at  Santa  Lucia,  close  to  the 
entrance  to  the  railway-station  (see  above),  instead  of  Scalzi. 

A  minor  line  connects  the  Riva  degli  Schiavoni  (comp.  PL  H,  5,  6) 
with  the  islands  of  San  Giorgio  Maggiore  (PL  H,  I,  7;  p.  424)  and 
eeca;  in  April-Sept,  every  i/2  hr.,  in  winter  hourly. 


420     Route  68.  VENICE.  History. 

A  third  line  plies  from  the  Riva  degli  Schiavoni  (dep.  near  the  Ponte 
della  Paglia,  PI.  H,  5,  6)  direct  to  the  Lido,  every  20-30  min.  Ticket  15, 
return  25  c. ;  or,  incl.  adm.  to  bath-house  40  c,  incl.  bath  1  fr.  30  c. 

Post  Office.  Fondaco  dei  Tedeschi  (PI.  G,  4;  p.  421),  near  the  Rialto 
bridge,  8a.m.  to  9  p.m.;  poste  restante  in  the  court,  on  the  left. — 
Telegraph.  Office  (PI.  G,  6;  also  branch  post-office),  Bocca  di  Piazza, 
behind  the  W.  side  of  St.  Mark's  Piazza. 

Banks.  Banco.  Commerciale  Italiana,  Via  Ventidue  Marzo  2188; 
Societa,  Bancaria  Italiana,  San  Marco,  Bocca  di  Piazza  1239;  Guetta 
(American  Express  Co.),  Campo  San  Moise;  Thos.  Cook  &  Son,  see  below. 

—  Bookseller.    Istituto  Veneto  di  Arti  Grdflche,  Piazza  San  Marco  40. 

Tourist  Agents.  Thos.  Cook  &  Son,  Piazzetta  dei  Leoni  289  (N.  side 
of  San  Marco);  P.  Facrber,  in  Hot.  d'ltalie  (p.  419),  also  town-agent  for 
the  railway. 

Steamboat  Agents.  _  North  German  Lloyd,  Piazza  San  Marco  118; 
Hamburg-American  (for  winter  pleasure-cruises  by  'Meteor'),  P.  Faerber, 
see  above;  Societa  Nazionale,  Campo  Morosini  2802;  Austrian  Lloyd, 
for  the  Venice  and  Trieste  Line  (p.  425),  in  the  Piazzetta  (p.  423);  Hun- 
garian Croatian  Co.,  Thos.  Cook  &  Son  (see  above). 

Consuls.    British,  E.  de  Zuccato,  Traghetto  San  Felice,  Grand  Canal. 

—  United  States  Consul,  J.  V.  Long,  Campiello  Querini  Stampaglia  5257. 

Churches.  English  (St.  George's),  Campo  San  Vio  731;  Presbyter- 
ian, Piazza  of  St.  Mark  95. 

One  Day  may  suffice  for  a  hurried  glance,  but  a  week  or  more  should 
if  possible  be  devoted  to  this  unique  city.  Sail  through  the  Grand  Canal; 
inspection  of  the  piazza  and  the  church  of  St.  Mark  and  the  Doges'  Palace 
(p.  423).  —  Of  the  Churches  St.  Mark's  (p.  423)  is  open  throughout  the  day, 
Santi  Giovanni  e  Paolo  (p.  424)  and  Frari  (p.  422)  save  from  12-2  (adm. 
in  the  afternoon,  till  their  restoration  is  completed,  50  c).  The  Doges' 
Palace  is  open  on  week-days,  9-3  (adm.  1  fr.,  or  incl.  visit  to  the 
Archaeological  Museum  and  the  Prigioni  2V2  fr.),  on  Sun.  and  holidays 
10-2,  free.  Academy  (p.  422)  on  week-days  9-4  (adm.  1  fr.),  on  Sun.  and 
holidays  10-2,  free. 

Venice,  Ital.  Venezia,  once  the  most  brilliant  commercial  city 
in  the  world,  now  a  provincial  capital,  with  148,500  iuhab.,  of  whom 
one  quarter  are  practically  paupers,  is  a  commercial  and  naval 
port.  It  lies  21/2  M.  from  the  mainland  in  the  lagoons,  a  shallow 
bay  25  M.  long  by  9^2  M.  broad,  separated  from  the  Adriatic  by 
narrow  sandy  strips  of  land  (lidi).  The  city  is  built  on  piles,  on 
117  islets,  and  is  intersected  by  over  150  canals,  which  are  crossed 
by  378  bridges.  The  interior  of  the  town  consists  of  a  labyrinth 
of  narrow  streets  and  lanes,  some  of  them  scarcely  5  ft.  wide.  The 
centre  of  traffic  is  the  Piazza  San  Marco  ('la  Piazza'),  with  the 
adjacent  Piazzetta.  The  other  open  spaces  are  called  campi  or 
campielli.  The  local  name  for  a  street  is  calle  or  salizzada,  and 
for  a  narrow  canal  rio. 

The  tribe  of  the  Veveti,  the  ancient  inhabitants  of  N.E.Italy,  were 
of  Illyrian  race,  but  became  Romanized  in  the  3rd  cent.  B.  C.  The  havoc 
committed  on  the  mainland  by  the  barbarian  Huns  compelled  the  in- 
habitants of  the  coast  to  seek  refuge  in  the  islands  of  the  lagoons,  where 
in  697  they  formed  the  Venetian  League,  headed  by  a  doge  (dux).  In 
811  Rivoalto  (now  Venice)  became  their  capital.  Aided  by  its  close 
connection  with  the  Byzantine  Empire  (p.  541),  the  town  rose  to  be  a 
rival  of  Genoa  in  its  important  traffic  between  East  and  West.  In  its 
art  also  Venice  was  under  Oriental  influence  throughout  the  middle  ages. 
After  the  conquest  of  Constantinople  by  the  great  doge  Enrico  Dandolo 


Canal  O-raiult 


VENICE. 


68.  Route.     421 


in  1204,  the  lion  of  St.  Mark  laid  his  mighty  talons  on  the  coasts  and 
islands  of  Greece  and  Asia  Minor.  On  the  Italian  continent  also  the 
republic  gradually  extended  its  conquests  to  Bergamo. 

The  15th  cent,  saw  the  zenith  of  the  republic's  glory,  when  her  fleet 
commanded  the  whole  of  the  E.Mediterranean.  But  after  their  capture 
of  Constantinople  in  1453  the  Turks  began  to  menace  the  Venetian 
supremacy.  The  discovery  of  America  and  of  the  new  sea-routes  to 
India  carried  the  world's  traffic  into  new  channels,  while  her  continental 
possessions  involved  her  in  the  wars  between  the  rival  powers  of  France, 
Austria,  and  Spain.  Her  protracted  conflicts  with  the  Turks  led  in  1718 
to  the  final  loss  of  all  her  Oriental  possessions,  and  in  1798  her  political 
independence  was  destroyed  by  the  French.  From  1814  to  1866  Venice 
ed  to  Austria,  and  since  1866  has  formed  a  port  of  the  kingdom 
of  Italy,  under  whose  auspices  her  trade  lias  somewhat  revived. 

The  *Canal  Graude  or  Canalazzo,  the  main  artery  of  Venice, 
intersects  the  city  from  the  Railway  Station  (PI.  C,  I),  8)  to  the 
harbour  {Canale  or  Bacino  cli  San  Marco,  PI.  G-K,  6,  7),  from 
N.W.  to  S.E.,  and  resembles  an  inverted  S  in  shape.  The  v 
through  it  by  steamer  (p.  419 ;  25  min.)  or  by  gondola  (p.  419 : 
1  hr., preferable)  conveys  a  most  striking  impression  of  the  magnifi- 
cence of  mediaeval  Venice.  The  canal  is  bordered  with  fine  old  guild- 
houses,  sumptuous  churches,  and  stately  palaces  of  the  12-18th 
cent.,  and  each  of  its  bends  reveals  a  new  and  pictnresqua-vista. 

Left.  Right. 

Chiesa  degUScalzi  (PI.  D.  3 ; 
church  of  the  barefooted  friars), 
in  the  highly  ornate  baroque 
style  (1649-89  . 

*  Palazzo  Vendram  in  -  Ca- 
lergi  (Pl.E,  F,  3),  the  most  beau- 
tiful early-Renaissance  palace 
in  Venice  (1509),  in  which 
Richard  AA'agner  died  in  1S83. 

*Ca  Doro  (PI.  F,  3),  the 
most  elegant  Gothic  palace  (15th 
cent.). 

Fondacodei  Tedeschi  (Pl.G, 
4;  p.  420),  once  the  warehouse 
of  the  Germans  (1505). 

The  *Ponte  di  Rialto  (PI.  G,  4;  'Rivo  Alto',  the  ancient  name 
of  Venice;  comp.  p.  120),  is  a  marble  arch  of  29'/2  yds.  span  and 
71  ft.  in  breadth,  flanked  with  shops  (158S-92). 

Near  the  bridge  aro  the  steam- 
boat-piers of  Cerva  and  Kiva  del 
Carbon  (p.  41$),  whence  the  Vet- 
ccria  (PI.  G,  4,  5),  a  street  of  shops, 
and  the  Callo  dei  Fabbri  (PI.  G,  5) 
both  lead  in  5  min.  to  St.  Mark's. 


Fondaco  del  Tarchi  (PI.  E, 
3;  'trade  hall  of  the  Turks'),  a 
late  Romanesque  edifice  (11th 
cent.),  restored  in  1861-9,  now 
the  Museo  Civico. 

Palazzo  Pesa.ro  (PI.  F,  3), 
the  most  brilliant  example  of 
late-Renaissance  (1679),nowthe 
Galleria  d'Arte  Moderna. 


422     Route  68. 


VENICE. 


Canal  Grande. 


Left. 

Pal.  Loredan  (PI.  F,  5)  and 
Pal.  Farsetti,  once  Ddndolo, 
both  Romanesque  (12th  cent.). 

*Pal.  Grimani,  high -Re- 
naissance, Sanmicheli's  master- 
piece (16th  ceut.). 

Pal.  Corner- Spinelli,  early- 
Renaissance,  in  the  style  of  the 
Lombardi. 


Right. 


Pal.  Papadopoli  (16th  cent.) . 

Pal.  Pisani  (a  San  Polo), 
Gothic  (15th  cent.). 

Pal.  Grimani,  high-Renais- 
sance (16th  cent.). 

Near  it  is  steamboat  pier  Sau 
Toma  (PI.  E,  5;  p.  419),  for  the  old 
Franciscan  church  *Frari  (PI.  E,5; 
adm.,  see  p.  420;  ticket  valid  also 
for  San  Toma),  in  the  Gothic  style 
(1330-1417),  the  resting-place  of 
many  eminent  Venetians,  with  ad- 
mirable altar-pieces  by  Giov.  Bel- 
lini and  Titian  (temporarily  in  San 
Toma,  close  by;  adm.  9-5,  ticket 
50  c.  admitting  also  to  the  Frari 
church). 

*Pal.F6seari  (PI.  E,  5),  Go- 
thic (15th  cent.). 

Pal.  Rezzonico  (PI.  E,  6), 
built  in  1680.  Robert  Browning 
died  here  in  1889. 


Between  the  Campo  San  Vitale  (Vidal)  and  the  Campo  della 
Oarita  is  the  Ponte  di  Ferro  or  dell' Accademia  (PI.  E,  6). 


Pal.  Cavalli  (PI.  E,  6),  now 
Francli£tti,  Gothic  (15th.  cent.). 

Pal.  Corner  della  Co,  Grande 
(PI.  F,  6),  by  Jac.  Sansovino 
(1532). 

Pal.  Contarini-Fasan  (PI. 
F,  G,  6),  Gothic  (14th  cent.). 


Near  the  bridge  is  steamboat 
pier  Accade"mia  (p.  419)  for  the 
* Accadtlmia  di  Belle  Arti  (PI.  E,  6), 
containing  admirable  Venetian  pic- 
tures (G.  Bellini,  Carpaccio,  Titian, 
P.  Veronese).     Adm.,  see  p.  420. 


*  Santa  Maria  della  Salute 
(PI.  F,  G,  6),  by  Bald.  Longhena 
■(17th  cent.) ;  fine  pictures  by 
Titian  in  the  sacristy. 

Dogana  di  Mare  (PI.  G,  6), 
custom-house  (1676-82),  on  the 
point  between  the  Grand  and  the 
Giudecca  canals. 


Giardino  Reale  (PI.  G,  6), 
or  royal  garden,  behind  the  Pro- 
curatie  Nuove  (p.  423). 

Molo  (PI. H,  6),  adjoining  the 
Piazzetta  (p.  423). 

From  the  Molo,  or  from  one  of  the  steamboat-piers  (p.  419)  of 
San  Marco  (PI.  G,  6)  or  San  Zaccaria  (PI.  H,  5),  we  next  visit  the 


San  Marco.  VENICE.  68.  Route.     423 

**Piazza  di  San  Marco  (PI.  G,  5),  the  centre  of  the  traffic  of  the 
city.  Even  now  this  far-famed  piazza  (182  yds.  long,  100  yds.  wide 
at  the  E.  end,  61  at  the  W.  end;  paved  with  slabs  of  trachyte  and 
marble)  conveys  an  admirable  idea  of  the  ancient  glory  of  Venice. 

On  the  N.  and  S.  sides  of  the  piazza  rise  the  Procuratie,  once 
the  residences  of  the  nine  procurators  or  highest  officials  of  the 
republic.  The  Procuratie  Vecchie,  on  the  N.  side,  were  erected 
in  1480-1517.  The  Procuratie  Nuove,  now  used  along  with  the 
adjacent  old  Library  (see  below)  as  a  royal  palace,  were  begun  by 
Vine.  Scamozzi  in  1584.  The  Atrio  or  Nuova  Fdbbrica,  on  the 
W.  side,  dates  only  from  1810.  The  groundiloors  of  these  buildings, 
flanked  with  arcades,  are  now  occupied  by  cafes  (p.  419)  and  shops. 

The  old  Campanile  di  San  Makco,  at  the  corner  of  the  Old 

Library,  collapsed  in  1902,  but  has  been  rebuilt.    The  top  of  the 

tower  (adm.  15  c.)  commands  a  fine  and  extensive  *View.    The 

dell'  Orologio,  a  clock-tower  built  in  11=96-9,  adjoining  the 

Old  Procuratie,  forms  the  entrance  to  the  Merceria  (p.  421). 

The  church  of  **San  Marco  (PI.  H,  5),  which  is  said  to  con- 
tain the  bones  of  St.  Mark,  was  begun  in  830,  rebuilt  after  a  fire  in 
970,  and  restored  after  the  middle  of  the  11th  cent,  in  the  Byzantine 
style.  The  ground-plan  (83J/2  yds.  long,  563/4yds.  broad  in  front) 
is  in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross  (with  equal  arms),  crowned  with 
niies.  The  front  arm  of  the  cross  is  flanked  with  a  colonnade. 
Outside  ami  inside  the  church  is  adorned  with  over  five  hundred 
marble  columns,  mostly  Oriental,  and  with  mosaics,  chiefly  of  the 
10-16th  centuries.  The  Gothic  additions  to  the  facade  (15th  cent.) 
enhance  its  fantastic  charm.  Over  the  main  portal  are  four  antique 
bronze-gilt  horses  from  Constantinople. 

The  IirrxBioR.is  wonderfully  impressive.   The  beauty  of  the  outlines 

ami  the  magnificence  of  the  decoration  are  equally  striking.   The  priceless 

U  forms  the  altar-piece,   from  Constantinople  (1105),  is 

shown   on   week-days  (11-2;  ticket,  50  c,   admits   also   to  the  Tesoro  in 

the  right  transept,  11-2). 

Adjoining  the  Piazza  of  St.  Mark,  on  the  side  next  the  lagoon, 
is  the  'Piazzetta  (PI.  H,  5,  6).  The  *Libreria  Vecchia,  or  old 
library,  dow  part  of  the  royal  palace  (see  above),  by  Jac.  Sansovino 
(1536-53),  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  secular  buildings  in  Italy. 
The  adjacent  Zecca  (mint)  now  contains  the  famous  library  of 
San  Marco.    On  the  opposite  (E.)  side  of  the  square  rises  the  — 

**Doges'  Palace  {Palazzo  Ducale;  PI.  H,  5),  which  is  said 
to  have  been  founded  in  814  as  the  residence  of  the  first  doge.  It 
was  rebuilt  after  the  fires  o\  976  and  1105,  and  has  since  been 
repeatedly  restored  and  all  end.  The  Gothic  exterior  is  flanked 
with  two  superb  arcades  with  pointed  arches;  the  W.  front  dates 
From  1423-8;  the  S.  front,  next  the  lagoon,  is  of  the  14th  century. 

The  Porta  della  Carta,  the  late -Gothic  chief  portal,  next  to 
the   church,  leads  into  the  quadrangle  of  the  palace,  where  the 


424     Route  68.  VENICE.  Riva  degli  Schiavoni. 

fagades,  though  still  partly  Gothic,  show  the  influence  of  the  new 
Renaissance  style.  In  the  interior  (adm.,  see  p.  420)  we  visit  the 
central  and  upper  floors,  containing  the  state-apartments  which  were 
redecorated  after  the  fires  of  1574  and  1577,  a  brilliant  example 
of  the  Venetian  late-Renaissance  and  rococo  art.  The  countless  pic- 
tures hy  Titian,  Paolo  Veronese,  Jac.  Tintoretto,  and  other  masters, 
proclaim  the  ancient  glory  of  Venice.  (Guide  unnecessary.  Cata- 
logues for  public  use  on  week-days.)  The  groundfloor  contains  the 
Archaeological  Museum  (antiques,  Renaissance  sculptures,  etc.). 

At  the  E.  end  of  the  Molo  (p.  422)  the  Ponte  delta  Paglia 
(PL  H,  5,  6),  which  crosses  the  Rio  di  Palazzo,  affords  a  good  view 
of  the  'Bridge  of  Sighs'  (Ponte  del  Sospiri;  PL  H,  5),  specially 
interesting  to  readers  of  Childe  Harold.  The  latter  bridge  connects 
the  Doges'  Palace  with  the  Prigioni  di  San  Marco. 

The  contiguous  Riva  degli  Schiavoni  (PL  H,  I,  5 ;  '  quay  of 
the  Slavonians ')  forms  the  sunniest  promenade  in  the  town.  To  the 
left,  nearly  opposite  the  Monument  of  Victor  Emmanuel  II.,  a 
narrow  lane  leads  to  the  church  of  San  Zaccaria  (PL  H,  I,  5 ; 
adm.  in  the  afternoon  50  c),  built  in  1458-1515.  Over  the  second 
altar  on  the  left  is  a  Madonna  by  Giov.  Bellini  (1505). 

A  few  paces  to  the  W.  of  the  church  is  Campo  San  Provolo.  The 
street  of  that  name  to  the  right,  the  first  bridge  to  the  left,  and 
then  the  Calle  Cortc  Eotta  and  the  Ruga  Giuffa  (PL  H,  5)  lead  to 
Santa  Maria  Formosa  (PL  H,  4;  knock  at  W.  portal;  gratuity 
25-30  c),  with  the  famous  *St.  Barbara  by  Palma  Vecchio. 

From  the  Campo  Santa  Maria  Formosa  we  follow  the  Calle  Lunga 
to  the  E.,  and  near  the  end  of  it  the  Calle  Bragadin  to  the  left  (N.) 
to  the  — 

Campo  Santi  Giovanni  e  Paolo,  with  the  * Monument  of  Col- 
leoni  (Venetian  condottiere,  d.  1475),  the  grandest  equestrian  statue 
of  the  Italian  Renaissance,  by  the  Florentine  Andrea  Verrocchio. 

The  church  of  *  Santi  Giovanni  e  Paolo  (PL  H,  4;  adm.  see 
p.  420),  once  the  church  of  the  Dominicans  and  the  burial-church 
of  the  doges,  erected  in  the  Gothic  style  in  1330-90,  is  quite  a 
museum  of  Venetian  sculpture.  The  finest  monument  is  that  of 
Andrea  Vendramin  (d.  1478;  in  the  choir,  on  the  left),  by  Tullio 
and  Ant.  Lombardi  and  Al.  Leopardi. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  Candle  di  San  Marco  (p.  421),  reached  by  ferry 
from  the  Molo  (' traghetto',  1-2  pers.  15,  3-4  pers.  20,  5-6  pers.  30  c),  or 
more  quickly  by  steamer  from  the  Riva  degli  Schiavoni  (see  p.  419),  are  the 
island  and  the  Benedictine  church  of  San  Giorgio  Maggiore  (PI.  H,  7; 
if  closed,  ring  on  the  right),  built  by  Palladio  (1565)  and  Ant.  Palliari. 
The  Campanile,  197  ft.  high  (ascent  to  the  left  of  the  choir;  easy  wooden 
stairs),  offers  a  superb  **View  of  the  city,  the  lagoons,  and  the  sea, 
embracing  in  clear  weather  the  Alpine  chain  far  away  to  the  N.  (finest 
in  the  earl  ymorning  or  just  before  sunset). 

The  Lido,  the  most  fashionable  sea-bathing  place  in  Italy  (height 
of  season  July  and  Aug.),  is  reached  either  by  the  direct  steamers  or  by 


71        Boschftto    (  gwj 


'  5       "   v  t  :'         '■'- 


Practical   Notes.  '  TRIESTE.  68.  Route.      425 

those  coming  from  the  railway-station  (p.  419,  420).  An  electric  tramway 
connects  the  pier  with  the  Bath  Establishment  (caf($-restaurant)  and  with 
the  large  hotels  on  the  shore.  —  See  also  Baedeker's  Northern  Italy. 

Trieste.  —  Bailway  Stations.  1.  Stazione  Meridionale  (S.  Station : 
PI.  B,  C,  2;  buffet),  10  min.  to  the  N.  of  the  Piazza  della  Borsa,  for  Vienna, 
ia  and  Fiume,  and  Cervignano  (Venice).  — 2.  Stazione  dello  Stato 
or  di  Sunt' Andrea  (State  Railway  Station;  PI.  A,  6),  at  the  S.  end  of  the 
Old  Harbour  (p.  426),  15  min.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Piazza  della  Borsa,  for  the 
Tauern  Railway,  and  for  Assling  and  Vienna.  Cabs,  see  below;  hotel- 
omnibua  1  A. 

Arrival  by  Sea.  The  Austrian  Lloyd  steamers  anchor  in  the  New 
Harbour  (p.  426),  at  Moles  I-III,  near  the  Dogana  (PI.  B,  2,  3)  and  the 
S.  Station,  or  at  the  Molo  San  Carlo  (PI.  B,  4;  excursion-steamer  'Thalia'). 

Hotels.  Gkand-H6tel,  Riva  dei  Mandracchio,  adjoining  the  Lloyd 
Palace  (p.  426),  a  first-class  house,  to  be  opened  in  1911;  Hot.  de  la  Ville 
(PI.  a;  C,  4),  Riva  Carciotti,  with  first-class  restaurant,  high  charges,  var- 
iously judged;  H6t.  Volpich  all'  Aquila  Neka  (PL  d;  C,  4),  with  good 
cafe-restaurant,  R.  3-8  A,  B.  1  A  20  h,  D.  3  K,  Hot.  To.niato  (PI.  h;  0,  4), 
R.  3-10  IT,  both  Via  San  Nicolo,  good;  Hot.  Balkan  (PI.  c;  C,  3),  Piazza 
dollaOaserma,  R.  from  3  A,  B.  70  ft,  D.  2  it"  80  ft;  Hot.  Vanoli  (PI.  k;  B,  4, 
5),  Piazza  Grande  2;  Hot.  Deloume  (PI.  b;  C,  4),  Via  del  Teatro  5;  Hot. 
Central  (PL  f ;  C,  4),  Via  San  Nicolo  15,  R,  from  2  #50-4  A  50  ft,  B.  1  A  20  ft. 

Cafes.  Cajfe  degli  Specchi,  Caffe  al  Municipio  (in  the  town-hall), 
Orientate  (in  the  Lloyd  Palace),  all  in  Piazza  Grande;  Stazione,  Piazza 
della  Stazione. 

Restaurants  at  the  hotels.  Also,  Restaurant  Dreher,  Via  della  Cassa 
di  Risparinio  (PL  C,  4),  near  the  Old  Exchange  (p.  426);  La  Cooperativa, 
Piazza  San  Giovanni  5  (PL  D,  3,  4). 

Cabs.  From  or  to  the  stations  1  A  60  ft  (9  p.m.  to  6  a.m.  t2  A');  in 
the  inner  town  per  drive  with  one  horse  1  K  (at  night  1  A"  20  ft),  farther 
out  1  A  40  or  1  A"  60  ft;  by  time:  »/a  hr.  1  A  20  ft,  at  night  1  A  60  ft,  %  hr 
1  A'  60  or  2  A  20  ft,  1  hr.  2  A  or  2  A  80  ft,  each  '/*  hr.  more  50  or  60  ft 
(with  pair,  1  A  40  or  1  A  60  ft;  2  A 20  or  2  A  40  ft;  2  A 80  or  3  A  20  ft; 
70  or  80  ft).    Trunk  50  ft;  small  articles  carried  inside  free,   outside  20  ft. 

Tramways  from  the  Boschetto  (beyond  PL  E,  2)  via  the  Piazza  della 
Borsa  and  Passeggio  di  Sant'  Andrea  (p.  427)  to  Servola  (p.  427);  from  the 
S.  Station  to  Barcola  (p.  427),  etc.  —  Electric  Hill-Tramway  (views  on 
Left,  best  to  sit  backward),  from  the  Piazza  della  Caserma  (PL  C,  D,  3)  via 
(2'/- M.)  Obelisco  (80  ft)  in  »/a  hr.  to  (3;!/4  M.)  the  rail,  station  of  Opc'ina 
(p.  427;  1  M.  to  the  S.W.  from  the  S.  Station). 

Motor  Omnibus  in  the  forenoon,  on  week-days  only,  every  hour 
to  Miramar  (p.  427;  return-fare  3  A). 

Steamboat  Lines.  Austrian  Lloyd  (offices  in  Lloyd  Palace,  PL  B,  4) 
to  Venice  (daily  in  summer,  in  4-61/2hrs.;  in  winter  Tues.,  Thurs.,  Sat., 
returning  Mon.,  Wed.,  andFrid.);  quick  boats  to  Alexandria;  other  lines 
to  Syria  and  to  Port  Said  (comp.  p.  418);  quick  boats  to  the  Piraaus  (for 
Athens)  and  Constantinople  (R.  78),  etc.;  Cunard  Line  (agents,  SchrBder 
&  Co.),  via.  Fiurae,  Palermo,  Naples,  and  Gibraltar  to  New  York  (R.  16); 
A  ustro- American  Line  (office  Via  Molin  Piccolo  2)  to  Buenos  Ay  res,  to 
\lmeria,  Cadiz,  and  Las  Palmas,  to  New  York,  and  to  Patras  (R.  78)  and 
Palermo;  German  Levant  Line  to  Tunis,  Algiers,  and  Oran;  Hungarian 
Croatian  Co.  (agent,  Maule,  Riva  dei  Pescatori  16)  and  Croatian  Steam- 
boat Co.  to  Fiume.  —  Local  Steamers  (from  Molo  San  Carlo,  PL  B,  4)  to 
Barcola  (p.  427),  half-hourly  in  summer,  and  to  Miramar  (p.  127)  twice  daily 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (PL  12;  C,  3),  Piazza  delle  Poste. 

Consuls.    British  Consul-General,  J.  B.  Spence;  vice-consul,  N.  Sal- 


426     Route  68.  TRIESTE.  Via  del  Corso. 

vary.  —  United  States  Consul,  31.  G.  Hotschick;  vice-consul  O.  Demartini. 
—  Lloyd's  Agekt,  R.  Greenham,  Via  San  Lazzaro  15. 

English  Church  Services,  in  the  Via  San  Michele  1714,  every 
Sun.  at  11  a.m.  and  6  p.m. 

Trieste  (pop.  221,000,  Italians,  Slovenians,  and  Germans;  in 
1758  about  6400  only),  the  Roman  Tergeste,  the  chief  seaport  of 
Austria  and  in  the  E.  Mediterranean,  lies  on  the  E.  shore  of  the 
Bay  of  Trieste,  at  the  head  of  the  Adriatic  and  at  the  foot  of  the 
Karst  or  Carso  Plateau  (1945  ft.),  which  is  often  visited  by  N.E. 
gales  (Bora).  Having  become  the  heiress  of  Venice  Trieste  was  a 
free  harbour  from  1719  to  1891 ;  in  1833  it  became  the  seat  of  the 
Austrian  Lloyd,  the  oldest  and  one  of  the  greatest  of  the  steam- 
boat companies  in  the  Mediterranean.  The  harbour  is  entered  by 
ca.  12,000  vessels  annually  (imports  573,  exports  508  million 
florins).  The  new  Tauern  Railway,  completed  in  1909,  the  direct 
route  to  the  Baths  of  Gastein,  the  Tyrol,  and  thence  to  Germany,  is 
exprcted  to  give  a  new  impulse  to  the  trade  of  the  city. 

The  Harbour  comprises  the  Porto  Vecchio  (PI.  A,  B,  4),  shel- 
tered by  the  Molo  Santa  Teresa  (PI.  A,  5;  lighthouse)  of  1756, 
the  Porto  Nuovo  (PI.  A,  1-3),  with  its  four  moles  and  a  breakwater 
1186  yds.  long,  constructed  in  1867-83,  and  the  Porto  Nuovo  di 
Sant  Andrea  or  Francesco  Giuseppe  Primo  (PI.  A,  B,  7).  The 
last,  in  the  Bay  of  Muggia,  was  completed  in  1910.  Between  the 
Porto  Nuovo  and  Porto  Vecchio  is  the  Canal  Grande  (PI.  0,4), 
completed  in  1756,  for  small  vessels  only. 

Near  the  old  harbour  are  the  two  busiest  squares  in  the  town, 
the  Piazza  Grande  (PI.  B,  C,  4)  and  the  Piazza  della  Borsa.  In  the 
Piazza  Grande  are  a  marble  Statue  of  Charles  VI.  and  the  Maria 
Teresa  Fountain  (1751).  On  its  E.  side  rises  the  Municipio  or 
town-hall  (PI.  C,  4).  Next  to  the  sea  are  pleasure-grounds ;  at  the  S. 
end  of  these  is  the  Lloyd  Palace  (PI.  B,  4) ;  at  the  N.  eud  is  the 
Luogotenenza  (or  governor's  residence;  PI.  7,  C  4). 

To  the  N.  of  the  Piazza  Grande  are  the  Theatre  (Teatro  Comu- 
nale  Giuseppe  Verdi,  PI.  0,  4)  and  the  Tergesteo  (PI.  13;  C,  4),  the 
new  exchange,  built  in  1852.  The  Borsa,  or  old  exchange  (PI.  0,  4), 
is  now  the  seat  of  the  chamber  of  commerce. 

The  Via  del  Corso  (PI.  C,  D,  4),  the  main  street  of  Trieste, 
running  to  the  E.  from  the  Piazza  della  Borsa,  separates  the  new 
town  from  the  streets  of  the  old  town,  which  ascend  the  castle-hill. 
The  old  Castello  (PI.  D,  5)  now  contains  the  barracks.  Fine  views 
are  obtained  from  the  terraces  of  the  Convento  dei  Cappuccini 
(PL  D,  4,  5)  and  of  the  Cathedral  (Basilica  San  Giusto;  PI.  3,  D  5  ; 
closed  12-3),  which  is  composed  of  three  early-Christian  churches 
(6th  cent.),  united  in  the  14th  century. 

Between  the  cathedral  and  the  Piazza  Grande  are  the  open-air 
Museo  Lapidario  (PI.  9;  C,  5),  Via  della  Cattedrale  9,  and  the 
Arco  di  JRiccardo  (PI.  la;  C,  5),  the  remains  of  a  Roman  arch. 


ANCONA.  6S.  Route.     427 

In  the  Piazza  Lipsia,  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Piazza  Grande,  rises 
the  Commercial  and  Nautical  Academy  (PI.  1 ;  B,  5),  containing 
the  Museo  Civico  of  natural  history  and  antiquities.  Near  it  is 
the  Piazza  Giuseppina  (PI.  B,  5),  with  a  bronze  monument  by  Schil- 
ling to  the  Archduke  Maximilian  (d.  1867;  see  below). 

Enviross.  By  the  Passeggio  di  San? Andrea  (PI.  A-E,  6,  7) ,  past 
the  Stabttimento  Tecnico  (PI.  B,  7)  and  Lloyd  Arsenal  (PI.  C,  D,  7),  to 
(2]  ■,  M.)  Servola  (tramway,  p.  425). — By  hill-tramway  (p.  425)  to  *Obelisco 
(1125ft.;  Hotel),  with  terrace;  walk  thence  to  the  N.W.  along  the  foot  of 
the  Karst  to  the  Belvedere  (1303  ft.;  fine  view;  best  in  the  evening). 

The*Excursion  to  Miramar  is  best  made  in  the  afternoon;  the  traveller 
should  ascertain  whether  or  not  the  park  and  chateau  are  open.  The 
highroad  (4*/s  M. ;  motor-omnibus,  see  p.  425)  skirts  the  coast.  We  may 
take  the  train  also  from  the  S.  Station  to  (5  M.)  Miramar  or  to  (5Va  M.) 
Grignano  and  descend  thence  in  >/4  hr.  (or  >/a  hr.)  to  Miramar,  or  take 
the  tramway  (p.  425)  to  Bdrcola  (sea-baths;  Hot.  Excelsior)  and  walk 
thence  to  (21/2  M.)  Miramar  (motor-omnibus  60  h).  The  pleasantest  route, 
however,  is  that  of  the  steamer  (p.  425).  —  The  imperial  chateau  of 
Miramar,  on  the  beautiful  Pu?ita  di  Grignano,  was  built  in  1854-6  by 
Archd.  Maximilian.  It  was  here  that  he  accepted  the  imperial  crown  of 
Mexico  (1864).  The  chateau,  which  has  a  charming  park,  is  open  to  the 
public  (10-12  and  3-5,  in  winter  2-4;  adm.  60  h). 

From  the  S.  station  of  Opcina  (pronounced  Optchina;  seep.  425;  or- 
dinary trains  only  stop  here)  directly  in  1/2  hr.  (or  from  Trieste  via  Mi- 
ramar, 10'/2M.  Nabresina,  and  18  M.  Op6ina  in  l'/4-2l/2  hrs.)  to  (10  or 
28  M.)  Divaoa  (pronounced  Divatcha;  1418  ft.;  Bullet,  also  R.  2  K  80  h, 
good;  quarters  also  at  the  Restaurant  Obersnel),  station  for  (1  M.)  Kron- 
prine  Rudolfs  Grotto  (tickets,  etc.  at  the  buffet),  for  the  (3/4  hr.)  Stephanie- 
Warte  (1428  ft.;  view),  and  for  the  grand  Cataracts  and  Caverns  of  St. 
Caneian  (tickets  and  guides  at  the  inn  of  Joh.  Gombafi  at  Matavun,  */»  hr. 
below  the  Stephanie- Warte,  */4  hr.  from  Diva6a). 

See  also  Baedeker's  Austria- Hungary. 


The  Italian  Steamers  from  Venice  to  Alexandria  usually  leave 
the  lagoons  to  the  N.  of  the  Lido  (p.  424),  avoiding  Chioggia  and 
the  marshy  delta  of  the  Po.  They  then  steer  down  the  Adriatic  Sea 
towards  Ancona.  In  clear  weather  we  obtain  a  superb  view  of  the 
Alps,  of  the  Euganean  hills  to  the  N.W.,  and  of  the  Apennines, 
whose  offshoots  come  close  down  to  the  Adriatic  near  Rimini. 

Ancona  (Hot.  Roma  e  Pace,  etc. ;  Brit,  vice-consul ;  pop.  33,300, 
incl.  about  6000  Jews),  140  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Venice,  a  strongly 
fortified  town  and  the  busiest  seaport  on  the  E.  coast  of  Italy,  is 
splendidly  situated  between  the  headlands  of  Monte  Astagno  and 
Monte  Guasco,  the  N.W.  spurs  of  Monte  Conero  (p.  428). 

The  Harbour,  an  oval  basin  open  towards  the  W.,  is  considered 
the  best  in  Italy.  The  well-preserved  Arch  of  Trajan,  in  marble, 
of  115  A.D.,  and  a  Triumphal  Arch  of  the  time  of  Pope  Clement  XII. 
(1730-40)  recall  the  two  founders  of  the  N.  quays.  The  Banchina, 
on  the  E.  side  of  the  harbour,  is  a  modern  quay  (1880). 

From  the  Dogana  we  may  walk  to  the  E.  in  a  few  minutes  to 
the  church  of  Santa  Maria  della  Piazza,  with  its  lavishly  decor- 
ated facade  (121UJ,  and  to  the  late-Gothic  Loggia  dei  Mercanti 
BiEDEKER'sMediterranean.  28 


428     Route  68.  BARI.  From  Venice  or  Trieste 

(Exchange;  1454-9).  A  little  to  the  E.  is  the  Prefettura  (15-16th 
cent.),  with  its  fine  quadrangle  and  a  superb  Renaissance  archway. 
The  Via  del  Comune,  near  this,  leads  to  the  N.,  past  the  Palazzo 
del  Comune  (of  1493,  but  much  modernized),  to  the  *Cathedral  (San 
Ciriaco;  closed  12  to  4.30),  on  Monte  Guasco,  a  fine  point  of  view. 
The  church,  in  which  Byzantine  and  Romanesque  forms  are  mingled, 
dates  from  1128-89;  the  fine  porch  is  of  the  13th  century. 

The  Steamers  round  the  N.  pier,  and  beyond  Monte  dei  Cap- 
puccini  (lighthouse)  pass  Monte  Conero  (1877  ft.;  the  ancient 
Promontorium  Cunerum),  crowned  with  a  Camahlulensian  mon- 
astery. This  limestone  mass  does  not  form  part  of  the  Apennines, 
in  front  of  which  it  lies,  and  geologically  considered  is  perhaps, 
like  Monte  Gargano  (see  below),  a  relic  of  the  great  Dalmatian 
limestone  tableland  (p.  429). 

The  coast  recedes.  In  clear  weather  we  sight  in  succession  the 
summits  of  the  Central  Apennines,  snow-clad  till  July:  Monte 
Vettore  (8130  ft.),  the  highest  of  the  Monti  Sibillini,  the  Gran 
Sasso  d  Italia  (95G1  ft.)  in  the  Abruzzi,  and  the  Maiella,  with 
Monte  Amaro  (9170  ft.). 

After  some  time  we  pass  the  four  low  'Fremiti  Islands,  the 
mythical  Insulae  Diomedeae,  and  then  the  rocky  island  of  Pia- 
nosa  (ancient  Planasia),  beyond  which  we  sight  Monte  Gargano 
(3464  ft.;  Mons  Garganus),  once,  as  late  as  the  tertiary  age,  an 
isknd  separated  from  the  mainland  by  a  strait. 

Off  the  lighthouse  of  Viesle,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  peninsula,  we 
steer  away  from  the  Bay  of  Manfredonia  and  due  S.E.  to  — 

Bari  (Hot.  Cavour,  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele;  Caffe  del  Risorgi- 
mento,  at  the  hotel;  Brit,  vice-cons,  and  U.  S.  cons,  agent;  pop. 
73,400),  the  ancient  Barium,  a  provincial  capital  and  the  largest 
trading  town  iu  Apulia.  As  in  the  time  of  Horace,  this  is  the  part 
of  the  Adriatic  where  fish  are  most  abundant. 

From  the  Porto  Nuovo,  on  the  N.W.  side  of  the  old  town,  Monte 
Gargano,  often  cloud-capped,  is  visible  even  in  rainy  weather.  The 
small  Porto  Vecchio,  on  the  E.  side,  admits  small  craft  only. 

The  sights  of  the  old  town  are  the  Castle,  once  that  of  the 
Hohenstaufen,  dating  from  Emp.  Frederick  II.  (1223 ;  now  barracks 
and  signalling  station),  the  Cathedral,  a  Romanesque  church  of  the 
12th  cent,  modernized  in  1745,  and  the  church  of  San  Nicola, 
dedicated  to  St.  Nicholas  of  Bari.  San  Nicola  and  the  small  church 
of  San  Gregorio  near  it  date  from  the  end  of  the  11th  century.  — 
The  old  town  and  the  new  (Borgo)  are  separated  by  the  broad 
Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele,  which  ends  in  pleasant  promenades. 

Beyond  Bari  we  skirt  the  coast,  where  in  the  seaports  of  Mola 
di  Bari,  Polignano  a  Mare,  and  Monopoli,  with  their  white 
houses,  we  see  the  first  signs  of  the  Orient.    The  Faro  di  Penna, 


to  Alexandria.  BRINDISI.  68.  Route.     429 

the  lighthouse  on  Capo  Gallo,  and  the  lighthouses  in  the  islands  of 
Sunt' Andrea  (see  helow)  and  Le  Petagne  mark  the  approach  to 
(475  M.)  Brindisi  (see  helow). 

The  Austrian  Lloyd  Steamers,  on  leaving  Trieste  (p.  425),  steer 
to  the  S.W.  through  the  Bay  of  Trieste,  avoiding  the  numerous  bays 
of  the  N.W.  coast  of  Istria;  then,  beyond  the  lighthouse  of  Salvore, 
the  ancient  Silvivm  Prumontorium,  they  keep  in  sight  of  the  hilly, 
olive-clad  W.  coast  of  Istria.  We  pass  the  small  coast -towns  of 
Umago,  Citianuova,  and  Parenzo  (ancient  Parenfium),  then  the 
lighthouse  on  the  Marmi  Bank,  the  Canal  di  Leme,  a  kind  of 
fiord,  backed  by  Monte  Maggiore  (4580  ft.),  and  the  harbour  of 
Rovigno,  sheltered  by  cliffs  (scogli). 

Beyond  the  cliff  of  San  Giovanni  in  Pelayo  (lighthouse)  we 
pass  the  Isole  Brioni,  where  the  Venetians  once  quarried  stone  for 
their  palaces  and  churches.  Fine  view  of  the  deeply  cut  bay  of 
Pola,  the  chief  naval  seaport  of  Austria,  used  also  by  the  Romans 
of  the  imperial  age  as  a  naval  harbour. 

Beyond  Cape  Promontore  (ancient  Polaticum  Promontorium), 
the  flat  S.  extremity  of  Istria,  with  a  lighthouse  on  the  Porer  Cliff, 
a  delightful  view  in  clear  weather  is  revealed  of  the  Dalmatian 
islands,  relics  of  the  ancient  Dalmatian  limestone  plateau,  now  sub- 
merged in  the  Adriatic.  The  most  conspicuous  are  Lussin  (Apso- 
rus  Insula),  culminating  in  Monte  Osscro  (1929  ft.),  and  to  the 
E.,  overtopped  by  it,  Unie  and  Sansego  with  their  lighthouses. 

We  pass  the  large  islands  of  Lunga  or  Grossa  and  Incoronata 
(Celadussae  Insulae),  lying  off  the  coast  near  Zara.  A  good  way 
farther  on  we  sight  the  rocky  islet  of  Porno,  midway  between 
Dalmatia  and  the  E.  coast  of  Italy ;  then  the  islands  of  Sant' Andrea 
(1001  ft.),  Busi  (788  ft.;  containing  the  Spelonca  di  Ballon,  re- 
sembling the  blue  grotto  of  Capri),  and  Lissa  (1920  ft. ;  ancient 
Issa),  where  the  Austrian  fleet  defeated  the  Italian  in  1866. 

Between  the  islands  of  Cazza  (797  ft.)  and  Lagosia  (1368  ft. ; 
ancient  Ladesta)  and  the  Italian  island -group  of  Pelagosa,  we 
may  descry  Monte  Gargano  (p.  428)  to  the  S.W.  in  clear  weather. 

We  now  steer  straight  towards  the  Faro  di  Penna  (p.  428). 

Brindisi. —  The  Quay  is  on  the  N.E.  side  of  the  town;  the 
Station,  on  the  S.W.  side,  is  3/t  M.  from  the  quay.  Between  them  runs 
the  Oorso  Garibaldi,  continued  to  the  W.  by  Corso  Umberto  Primo. 

Hotels  (charges  should  be  agreed  upon  beforehand).  Grand-Hot. 
International,  at  the  quay,  R.  5-10,  B.  l'/j,  dej.  4,  D..6,  omn.  ll/2  fr. ; 
Albergo  Europa,  Corso  Garibaldi  147,  R.  from  2  fr. ;  Alb.  Centrale,  Corso 
Garibaldi  67,  near  the  harbour;  these  two,  with  restaurants,  fairly  good. 
—  Cafi  Copras. 

Cab  (bargaining  necessary)  from  station  to  quay  60  c,  2  pers.  1  fr., 
3  pers.  1  fr.  20  c. ;  '/•;  hr.  2,  1  hr.  3  f r. ;   at  night  20  c.  more;   trunk  20  c. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office,   Corso  Umberto  Primo  and  on  the  quay. 

British  Consul,  S.  G.  Cocoto. 

Steamboat  Offices.  Societd  Nazionale,  Via  Margherita  32;  Aus- 
trian Lloyd,  Tho8.  Cook  &  Son,  Strada  Marina.  —  The  steamers  are  generally 

28* 


430     Route  68.  BRINDISI 

moored  at  the  quay;   otherwise,   landing  or  embarkation  60  c.  —  Lloyd's 
Agent,  Sig.  Nervegna. —  English  Church  Service  in  winter. 

Brindlsi  (pop.  22,000),  a  quiet  town,  the  seat  of  an  archbishop, 
has  been  ever  since  ancient  times  an  important  starting-point  for 
the  East.  In  the  middle  ages  its  harbour  was  often  sought  by  the 
Crusaders,  and  hosts  of  travellers  now  pass  through  it  on  their  way 
to  or  from  Egypt,  India,  Australia,  etc.  The  inner  harbour,  shel- 
tered from  every  wind,  consists  of  two  natural  creeks  formed  by 
erosion;  in  the  southmost,  the  Seno  di  Ponte  Piccolo,  492  yds.  long, 
the  large  steamers  are  easily  berthed.  The  channel  connecting  the 
inner  harbour  with  the  outer  had  become  choked  with  sand  in  the 
later  middle  ages,  but  was  reopened  in  1755  and  lined  with  ma- 
sonry in  1866.  On  the  island  of  Sant' Andrea,  outside  the  harbour, 
rises  a  castle  of  the  15th  cent.,  now  a  quarantine  station. 

The  town  offers  few  sights.  On  a  height  close  to  the  quay  stands 
a  Column,  62  ft.  high,  with  a  rich  capital  containing  figures  of  gods. 
Adjacent  is  the  base  of  a  second  column.  The  unfinished  inscription 
on  the  first  mentions  Lupus  Protospatha,  a  Byzantine  governor,  who 
restored  the  town  in  the  10th  cent,  after  its  destruction  by  the  Sar- 
acens. These  columns  are  said  to  have  marked  the  end  of  the  Via 
Appia  which  led  from  Rome  to  Tarentum  and  Brundisium,  and  they 
perhaps  bore  a  beacon-fire.  The  Gothic  Castle,  with  its  huge  round 
towers,  on  the  N.  creek,  to  the  W.  of  the  town,  built  by  Emp.  Fred- 
erik  II.  about  1235  and  strengthened  by  Charles  V.,  now  contains 
a  baguo  for  galley  convicts.  The  baptistery  of  San  Giovanni  al 
Sepolero  (11th  cent.),  with  its  fine  portals  and  frescoes,  is  now  a 
museum  of  antiquities.  The  Cathedral,  in  its  present  form,  is  of 
the  18th  cent. ;  at  the  corner  of  a  street  opposite  is  a  mediaeval  house 
with  an  elaborate  balcony.  The  Norman  church  of  San  Benedetto 
(early  13th  cent.)  has  an  interesting  side-portal  and  fine  cloisters. 
Santa  Lucia  has  a  crypt  with  relics  of  Byzantine  frescoes. 

Leaving  Brindisi  the  Steamer  next  passes  through  the  Straits 
of  Otranto,  the  entrance  to  the  Adriatic,  about  47  M.  in  breadth, 
within  sight  at  first  of  the  flat  and  marshy  coast  of  Apulia,  with 
the  lighthouse  of  San  Cataldo.  To  the  E.,  on  the  coast  of  Alba- 
nia, rise  the  Acroceraunian  Mts.  (p.  496). 

Far  away  to  the  left  appear  the  Othonian  Islands  (p.  496), 
belonging  to  Greece,  and  the  W.  coast  of  Corfu  (p.  495). 

Steering  through  the  Ionian  Sea  we  near  the  "VV.  coast  of 
Kephallenia  (p.  500)  and  Zante  (p.  502).  Off  the  Strophades 
(p.  502)  we  sight  the  Messenian  Peninsula,  with  Mt.  JEgaleon 
(p.  502). 

Beyond  the  (Enussae  Islands  (p.  493)  we  proceed  to  the  E.S.E. 
till  at  length  we  pass  the  W.  coast  of  Crete  (p.  415)  and  the  island  of 
Gavdos  (p.  418).  We  then  lose  sight  of  land  until  near  Alexandria 
or  Port  Said  (comp.  p.  418). 


pour  . 

MahoimesP     0    R    T  0    V    fc     S     TS 

(Port    d'  E  11  n  o  s  I  e    des  A n  C 
P    6    R  T        AC    THE 


431 


69.  Alexandria.! 


Arrival.  Most  of  the  steamers  are  berthed  at  the  quay  in  the  inner 
harbour  (otherwise  the  fare  to  or  from  the  steamer  is  2  pias.,  at  night  3  pias., 
each  trunk  1  pias.).  After  the  formalities  of  the  sanitary  authorities  are 
concluded,  the  care  of  heavier  baggage  is  entrusted  to  one  of  the  Arabian 
bote]  porters,  or  to  Cook's  agents  (p.  132),  who  wear  an  official  cap  or  badge. 
The  inclusive  charge  to  the  hotel  or  to  the  railway-station  is  15-20  pias., 
which  through-passengers  to  Cairo  may  sometimes  pay  in  advance  at  one 
ut'  the  tourist  agencies  before  starting  on  their  journey.  The  custom-house 
examination  is  usually  lenient. 

Railway  Station.  Gare  du  Oaire  or  Bab  el-Guedid  (PL  G,  5;  buf- 
fet), near  the  old  Porte  Moharrem  Bey. 

Hotels  (English  style).  Savoy  Palace  (PI.  g;  H,  4),  Rue  de  la 
Porte  de  Rosette  35,  R.  40-70,  B.  10,  dej.  20,  D.  30,  pens.  80,  omn.  5  pias.; 
Metropole  Hotel  (PI.  k;  F,  G-,  3),  Rue  Averoff,  near  the  E.  harbour, 
R.  20-30,  B.  6,  dej.  15,  D.  20,  pens.  40-60,  omn.  5  pias.,  well  spoken  of; 
Excelsior  Hotel  (PI.  a;  H,  4),  Rue  de  la  Porte  de  Rosette  15;  Grand- 
ll.ni  i.  (PI.  b  ;  F,  4),  Square  Ste.  Catherine,  R.  from  25,  B.  6,  dej.  or  D.  20, 
pens.  60-80,  omn.  5  pias.;  Windsor  Hotel  (Pl.d;G,  3),  Rue  AvSroff  7, 
near  the  E.  harbour,  R.  from  17,  dej.  15,  D.  20,  pens,  from  50  pias. ;  Hot. 
Bristol  (Pl.i:  G,  4),  Rue  de  la  Gare  de  Ramleh;  Hot.  des  Voyageurs 
(Pl.f;  F,  4),  Rue  de  l'Eglise  Ecossaisc  4,  pens.  11  fr. ;  Hot.  Bonnard 
(PI.  e ;  F,  3),  Rue  Champollion  7,  pens,  from  42  pias.  —  Hotels  Gainis. 
Hot.  du  Nil  (PI.  h;  F  3),  Rue  de  1'Ancienne  Bourse  11;  H6t.  Continental 
(PI.  c ;  F,  4),  Rue  de  France  2. 

Cafes  (cup  of  Arabian  coffee  1  pias.).  Several  in  Place  Mehemet  Ali 
(PI.  F.  t),  etc.  —  Confectioners.  Conflserie  Albcnyo,  Rue  Cherif  Pacha  17 ; 
Groppi,  same  street,  No.  33;  Zola,  Rue  Toussoun  Pacha  3;  Sault,  Rue 
Cherif  Pacha  2G. 

Restaurants.  Ristorante  Firense,  Rue  de  la  Poste  14  (PI.  F,  3.  4) ; 
Restaurant  Universel,  Rue  do  1'Ancienne  Bourse  9  (PI.  F,  4);  same  street, 
Nos.  3  and  6,  Old  Bourse  Bar  and  Spathis;  C'asteUi,  Rue  Cherif  Pacha  1. 

Tramways  (see  Plan),  all  diverging  from  Place  Mehemet  Ali.  Uniform 
fare,  1st  cl.  10,  2nd  cl.  5  mill.,  with  right  to  one  change  of  car. — Electric 
line  to  Ramleh  (p.  436)  every  5  min.  till  midnight  (dep.,  see  PI.  G,  3).  — 
There  are  in  addition  several  services  of  Motor  Omnibuses  plying  within 
the  town  and  to  the  suburbs. 

Cabs  (Arabic  arabiyeh).  In  the  town,  drive  of  10  min.  2  pias.,  with 
two  horses  3  pias.;  20  min.  2'/^  or  4  pias.;  1/2  hr.  3  or  5  pias.;  hr.  6  or 
9  pins. ;  each  addit.  '/4  hr.  l'/2  or  2  pias.;  from  steamer  to  railway-station 
3  or  5  pias.  (See  tariff  in  vehicle  as  to  suburbs).  The  aid  of  a  friend  who 
speaks  the  language  is  desirable  in  bargaining  for  long  drives. 

f  Money.  The  Egyptian  Pound  (dlE,  'livro  dgyptienne')  contains 
100  Piastres  (pias.)  of  10  Milliemcs  (mill.)  each.  The  Arabic  for  piastre  is 
kirsh,  pi.  kurush  (pronounced  in  Cairo  'irsh  and  'uriish),  but  the  European 
name  is  known  everywhere.  Petty  traders  often  distinguish  between  the 
'great  piastre'  of  10  mill,  (kirsh  sdyh)  and  the  'little  piastre'  of  5  mill. 
(kirsh  tarifa).     In  the  following  data  the  'great'   is  always  understood. 

The  Egyptian  pound  is  worth  ca.  20s.  6d.,  the  piastre  nearly  2'/sjd. 
Egyptian  gold  coins  are  rare,  their  place  being  taken  by  the  sovereign 
((line  inylisi,  97'/b  pias.),  the  French  20  fr.  piece  (bint,  77  pias.),  and  the 
Turkish  pound  (mqjidiyeh,  87'/a  pias.),  which  are  all  legally  current. 

The  silver  coins  are  riydl  /»'i*ri  (20  pias.),  nusse  riydl  (10  pias.),  rub'a 
riydl  (5  pias.,  Is.  'Ud.,  often  called  a  'shilling'  at  Cairo),  kirshen  (2  pias.), 
and  kirsh  or  kirsh  sdgh  (1  pias.).  Nickel:  nusse  kirsh  or  kirsh  titrifa 
('/a  pias.),  2  mill.  (>/6  pias.),  and  1  mill.  (ca.  lUd.).    Copper:  '/s  ail(1  '/*  mil1- 

Eastern  European  time,  which  is  about  2  hrs.  in  advance  of  Green- 
wich, is  observed  in  Egypt 


432     Route  69.  ALEXANDRIA.  Practical  Notes. 

Post  Office  (PI.  P,  3),  open  7-12  and  2  to  9.30.  Postage,  see  p.  441. 
France  has  its  own  post-office,  Rue  de  la  Gare  de  Ramleh  2.  —  Telegraph. 
Offices.  Egyptian,  Rue  Tewfik  Premier  1;  British,  Rue  du  Tel6graphe 
Anglais  5  (PI.  F,  4). 

Consulates.  British  (PI.  6;  H,  3),  Rue  de  l'Hopital  Egyptien:  consul- 
general,  D.  E.  Cameron;  vice-consul,  E.  H.  Mulock. —  United  States,  Rue 
Chenf  Pacha  21;  consul,  D.  R.  Birch;  vice-consul,  F.  L.  Romeo. 

Tourist  Agents.  Thos.  Cook  &  Son,  Rue  de  la  Porte  de  Rosette  2; 
Clark,  Grand-Hotel;  Hamburg- American,  Square  Ste.  Catherine  (PL  F,  4); 
F.  Th.  Fotiades  &  Co.,  Rue  Cherif  Pacha  22. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Morrison,  Place  Mehemet  Ali;  Dr.  Webb  Jones, 
Rue  de  Stamboul;  Dr.  Elkins  (Government  Hospital);  Dr.  Forster  (lady- 
doctor)  ;  Dr.  Hoddad,  Rue  de  la  Gare  de  Ramleh  29. 

Steamboat  Offices.  Peninsular  &  Oriental,  Rue  Averoff  (Haselden 
&  Co.;  'Box  153');  Messageries  Maritimes  (RR.  67,  72),  Ricard,  Rue  de 
l'Eglise  Debbane  5;  Austria7i  Lloyd  (RR.  08,  72),  Rue  de  la  Porte  de 
Rosette;  Societa  Nazionale  (RR.  67,  68,  72),  Capt.  Baldovino,  Rue  Se-- 
sostris  12;  Ehedivial  Mail  Steamship  Co.  (RR.  72,  75,  70),  Rue  Centrale; 
North  German  Lloyd  (R.  67)  and  Rumanian  Mail  (R.  76),  Miiller  &  Co., 
Rue  Se"sostris  16;  German  Levant  Line  (R.  72),  Stross,  No.  11,  same  street; 
White  Star,  Ross  &  Co.,  Rue  de  la  Marine;  Russian  Steam  Navigation 
&  Trading  Co.  (RR.  72,  75,  76),  Reidemeister,  Rue  St.  Marc  1. 

Banks  (usually  9-12  and  3-5).  Ottoman,  Place  Mehdmet  Ali  5  (PI.  F,  4) ; 
National  Bank  of  Egypt,  Rue  Toussoun  Pacha  4  (PI.  G,  4) ;  Anglo- Egyptian, 
Rue  Cherif  Pacha  7;  Credit  Lyonnais,  same  street,  No.  4;  Bank  of  Egypt, 
Rue  Tewfik  4;  Deutsche  Orientbank  (PI.  F,  4),  Rue  Adib  4. 

Photographs.  Reiser  &  Binder,  Rue  de  l'Ancienne  Bourse  6  (also 
art-dealers) ;  Lassave,  Rue  de  l'Eglise  Debbane  7 ;  Fettel  &  Bernard,  Rue 
Toussoun  Pacha  1.  Photographical  requisites  at  Delmar's,  Rue  Tewfik 
Premier. 

Theatres.  Zizinia  (PI.  G,  4),  Rue  de  la  Porte  de  Rosette,  often 
closed;  French  and  Italian  operas,  alternating  after  1st  Jan.  with  Cairo. — 
Variety  Theatres  (all  with  gardens) :  Alhambra  (PI.  G,  4) ;  Nuovo  Teatro 
Alhambra,  cor.  of  Rue  Misalla  and  Rue  de  la  Gare  de  Ramleh  (PI.  G,  3). 
—  Jardin  Rosette,  Rue  de  la  Porte  Rosette  (PI.  H,  4). 

Churches.  English  {St.  Mark's;  'Egl.  anglicane';  PI.  F,  4),  Place 
Me'hdrnet  Ali;  chaplain,  Ven.  Archdeacon  Ward,  31.  A.;  services  on  Sun. 
at  8,  11,  and  6.15  o'clock.  —  Presbyterian  (St.  Andrew's;  PI.  1,  F  3,  4), 
Rue  de  l'Eglise  Ecossaise;  service  on  Sun.  at  10.30  a.m. — American  Mis- 
sion ('Egl.  amerie.';  PI.  G,  4),  Rue  Sidi  el-Metwalli. 

One  Day,  when  time  is  limited.  Forenoon,  Place  Mehimet  Ali  (p.  434), 
the  Arab  and  Turkish  Quarters  (p.  434);  tramway  or  cab  to  Pompey's 
Pillar  (p.  435);  *Catacombs  of  Kom  esh-Shukdfa  (p.  435).  Afternoon,  Rue 
Che'rif  Pacha  (p.  435)  and  Museum  (p.  436).  A  'billet  cumulatif  obtained 
at  the  Museum  (8  pias.)  admits  also  to  Pompey's  Pillar  and  the  Catacombs. 

Alexandria,  called  by  the  Arabs  and  Turks  Iskanderieh,  the 
second  town  of  Egypt,  strongly  fortified,  and  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant trading  places  on  the  Mediterranean,  lies  in  31°  11'  N.  lat. 
and  29°  53'  E.  long.,  at  the  W.  end  of  the  Nile  Delta  (p.  418),  on  a 
strip  of  land  separating  Lake  Mareotis  from  the  sea.  The  popula- 
tion is  about  377,000,  incl.  48,000  Europeans  ('Franks'),  chiefly 
Greeks  and  Italians,  but  many  French  and  Austrians  and  a  lesser 
number  of  English  and  Germans.  The  Moslems  live  mostly  in  the 
N.  and  W.  quarters  (comp.  p.  434),  the  Europeans  chiefly  in  the  E. 
quarter  or  in  Ramleh  (p.  436). 


History.  ALEXANDRIA.  69.  Route.     433 

Alexandria  was  founded  in  331  B.  C.  by  Alexander  the  Great,  who 
endeavoured  to  blend  the  land  of  the  Pharaohs  with  his  new  Greek  em- 
pire. His  Egyptian  governor  and  successor,  Ptolemy  I.  Soter  (323-286), 
made  Alexandria  a  centre  of  art  and  science.  He  founded  the  Museum, 
an  institute  for  the  promotion  of  science  and  poetry,  to  which  the  famous 
Alexandrine  library  was  attached.  The  highly  advantageous  position  of 
the  town,  which  was  connected,  through  Lake  Mareotis,  with  the  Nile  by 
several  navigable  channels,  and  whose  harbour  (unlike  the  other  older 
seaports  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nile)  was  protected  by  marine  currents  from 
being  silted  up,  led  to  the  surprisingiy  rapid  development  of  its  trade  and 
prosperity  under  the  Ptolemies.  Alexandria  had  attained  its  zenith  when, 
in  IS  B.C.,  the  Romans  intervened  in  the  quarrels  between  Cleopatra  and 
her  husband  Ptolemy  XIV.  Both  Caesar,  who  entered  Alexandria  in  tri- 
umph after  the  murder  of  Pompey  at  Pelusium,  and  Antony  were  en- 
snared by  Cleopatra.  After  the  defeat  of  Antony's  partisans  Augustus 
founded  the  large  E.  suburb  of  Nicopolis.  "When  at  its  prime  the  city  is 
said  to  have  had  a  population  of  half-a-million  inhabitants.  The  Greek 
element  predominated,  after  which  came  the  Egyptian,  while  a  Jewish 
community  had  existed  here  ever  since  the  time  of  Ptolemy  I.  Christianity 
also  took  root  in  Alexandria  at  an  early  period,  having  been  first  pro- 
claimed here,  according  to  tradition,  by  St.  Mark  the  Evangelist. 

In  the  time  of  Trajan  (91S-117)  the  revolt  of  the  Jews,  who  then  com- 

Sosed  one-third  of  the  population,  gave  rise  to  terrible  bloodshed  and 
isaster.  A  century  later  the  emperor  Caracalla  (211-7)  paid  a  fateful 
visit  to  the  city,  and,  to  punish  the  citizens  for  their  contumacy,  ordered 
many  of  them  to  be  massacred  and  the  famous  academy  to  be  closed. 
The  city  suffered  even  more  severely  from  the  persecution  of  the  Christians 
under  Decius  (250)  and  Valerian  (257),  from  the  plague  in  the  reign  of 
Gallienns,  and  from  its  battles  with  the  Palmyrenes  (260-8).  Having  be- 
come, like  Carthage,  a  stronghold  of  Christian  erudition,  Alexandria  af- 
terwards became  the  chief  scene  of  the  embittered  controversies  between 
Arius  (d.  336),  a  presbyter  of  the  city,  and  the  'orthodox'  bishops  Alexander 
and  Athanasius  (328-78).  Even  after  the  victory  of  the  Athnnasians  at 
the  councils  of  Nicaea  (325)  and  Constantinople  (381)  the  Arian  heresy, 
which  admitted  the  divine  nature  of  Christ  but  denied  his  identity  with 
the  Father,  subsisted  for  centuries  among  the  Germanic  tribes. 

Under  Theodosiits  I.  (379-95)  paganism  received  its  deathblow,  when 
the  patriarch  TheophUus  waged  war  against  all  heathen  temples  and 
monuments.  But  the  material  prosperity  of  the  city  declined  at  the  same 
time.  The  citizens  were  no  longer  able  to  pay  for  the  cleansing  of  the 
Nile  and  the  maintenance  of  the  canals,  and  they  were  further  impover- 
ished when  the  patriarch  Cyril  banished  the  Jews.  In  619  the  Persian 
Chosroes  made  Alexandria  his  base  fur  tin'  conquest  of  Egypt.  The  coun- 
try was  next  overrun  by  the  hordes  of  caliph  Omar,  whose  general  Amr 
ibn  el-Asi  captured  Alexandria  in  6-11.  Its  importance  now  declined  still 
further  in  the  same  proportion  as  Cairo,  the  new  capital  of  the  con- 
querors, rose  to  wealth  and  importance.  In  1303  and  1326  a  great  part 
of  the  city,  with  the  Pharus  (p.  431),  was  destroyed  by  earthquakes. 
Lastly,  the  discovery  of  America  and  of  the  sea-route  to  India  completed 
the  ruin  of  its  trade. 

About  the  year  1800  the  population  of  Alexandria  had  dwindled  to 
about  5000,  but  Mohammed  AH  (p.  lit)  wisely  laid  the  foundations  of  a 
new  era  of  prosperity.  He  improved  the  harbours  and  constructed  canals. 
His  great  work  was  the  Mahm&diyeh  Canal  (p.  434),  begun  in  1819, 
which  fertilized  anew  the  environs  of  the  city  and  again  connected  it 
with  the  interior  of  Egypt,  which  bad  long  been  obliged  to  export  its 
produce  by  way  of  Damietta  and  Rosetta.  Subsequent  rulers  also  wrere 
zealous  for  the  welfare  of  Alexandria.  During  the  revolt  of  the  natioual 
party  under  Arabi  Bey  (1882)  Alexandria  was  bombarded  by  the  British 
fleet  and  the  European  quarter  was  burned  down,  but  since  then  the  city 
has  resumed  its  steady  and  vigorous  career  of  progress. 


434     Route  69.  ALEXANDRIA.         Place  MiMmet  Ali. 

The  old  town  of  to-day  lies  partly  on  the  Ileplastadion ,  the 
embankment  'seven  stadia'  (about  1430  yds.)  in  length,  which  ever 
since  the  time  of  the  Ptolemies  has  connected  the  mainland  with 
the  island  of  Pharos,  but  which  in  the  course  of  centuries  has  been 
greatly  widened.  At  the  E.  extremity  of  the  island,  now  peninsula, 
rises  the  picturesque  Fort  Kd'it  Bey  (PI.  D,  E,  1),  on  the  site  of 
the  famous  'Pharus',  a  lighthouse  erected  under  Ptolemy  II.  Phila- 
delphus  by  Sostratus  of  Cnidos,  in  280-279 ;  it  was  originally  400  ells 
(590  ft.)  in  height,  and  was  deemed  one  of  the  seven  wonders  of  the 
world;  it  is  supposed  to  have  been  the  prototype  of  the  Egyptian 
minaret  (comp.  p.  445).  The  main  or  'great'  harbour  of  that  period, 
protected  by  a  huge  embankment,  is  now  the  Port  Est,  the  new 
quays  of  which  afford  a  pleasant  seaside  walk  and  are  being  com- 
pleted as  a  fashionable  boulevard. 

The  Port  Ouest,  the  ancient  Eunostos  ('haven  of  happy  re- 
turn'), was  little  used  till  the  later  Roman  age.  Improved  since 
1871  it  now  consists  of  an  inner  basin  of  475  acres,  and  a  new 
outer  harbour  of  1750  acres  (p.  418).  From  the  beginning  of  the 
Gabbari  Mole  extend  quays  with  warehouses  along  the  E.  side  of 
this  harbour  to  the  Naval  Arsenal  (PI.  C,  D,  3).  Of  the  2000 
steamers  entering  the  port  annually  more  than  half  are  under  the 
British  flag.  The  inner  harbour  is  connected  with  the  Mahmudiyeh 
Canal  (p.  435)  by  means  of  locks.  The  chief  exports  are  cotton, 
cotton-seed,  grain,  beans,  rice,  sugar,  onions,  and  tomatoes. 

The  .Rue  de  la  Marine  (PI.  E,  D,  5, 4 ;  tramways,  see  p.  431)  and 
its  continuation  the  Rue  Moutouch  Pacha  (PI.  D,  4,  3)  form  one  of 
the  chief  approaches  to  the  peninsula  of  Pharos  (see  above).  Between 
the  viceregal  Palace  of  Rds  et-Tin  (PI.  A,  B,  3)  and  the  Port  Est 
lies  the  Turkish  Quarter,  with  its  pretty  houses  and  a  few  gardens. 

The  Rue  Ras  et-Tin,  the  main  street  of  the  N.  quarters,  leads 
past  the  Government  Buildings  (PI.  D,  E,  3),  to  the  S.E.,  to  the 
Arab  Quarter,  lying  on  the  ancient  Heptastadion  (see  above)  and 
containing  several  Silks  or  markets,  which  present  an  interesting 
picture  of  Oriental  life. 

The  Rue  de  France  (PI.  E,  F,  3,  4),  the  S.E.  prolongation  of  the 
Rue  Ras  et-Tin,  leads  to  the  Place  Mehemet  All  (PI.  F,  4),  the 
focus  of  European  life,  planted  with  trees  and  adorned  with  a 
Statue  of  Mohammed  Ali  (p.  444)  on  horseback.  The  chief  build- 
ings here  are  the  Palais  de  Justice,  the  Bourse,  and  the  English 
Church.  The  last  is  adjoined  by  St.  Marie's  Building,  belonging 
to  the  British  community  and  used  as  a  school  and  for  official  pur- 
poses. From  the  W.  harbour  the  Place  Mehemet  Ali  is  reached  by 
the  Rue  Bab  el-Karasta  (PI.  E,  5)  and  Rue  Anastasi  (Pl.E,  F,  5,  4), 
skirting  the  lofty  Fort  Cafardli  or  Napoleon  (PL  E,  5;  signalling 
station). 

A  few  paces  to  the  S.  of  the  Place  Mehemet  Ali  lies  the  tri- 


K6m  esh-Shvlcdfa.  ALEXANDRIA.  en.  Itovte.     435 

angular  Square  Ste.  Catherine  (PI.  F,  4),  named  after  the  Catholic 
Church  of  St.  Catharine.  From  this  point  we  walk  (or  take  a  car 
or  motor-omnibus,  see  p.  431)  to  the  S.E.  through  the  Rue  Abou 
Dardah  (PI.  F,  4,  5)  and  Rue  de  la  Colonne  Pompee  (PI.  F,  G,  6,  7), 
past  the  Sidi  Amr  Mosque  (PI.  G,  6)  and  a  large  Cimetiere  Arabc 
(PI.  F,  6,  7),  to  a  bare  hill,  on  the  right,  covered  with  debris. 

Here  in  the  time  of  the  Ptolemies  rose  the  Serapeum,  the  most 
superb  temple  in  the  city,  dedicated  to  Serapis,  god  of  the  lower 
regions.  On  the  same  site  now  stands  Pompey's  Pillar  (PI.  F,  G,  7 ; 
adm.  3  pias.;  see  also  p.  432),  the  grandest  memorial  of  antiquity 
in  the  city.  "We  ascend  by  steps  to  the  plateau.  All  around  are  traces 
of  recent  excavations,  chiefly  bringing  to  light  relics  of  Roman 
edifices.  The  column,  composed  of  red  granite  from  Assuan,  is  88  ft. 
high  including  the  mutilated  base.  It  is  perhaps  a  Christian  monu- 
ment of  victory,  dating  from  the  time  of  Emp.  Theodosiusl.  (p.  433), 
signalizing  the  destruction  of  the  Serapeum  (391).  In  the  middle 
ages  it  was  supposed  to  be  the  tomb  of  Pompey. 

"We  follow  the  Rue  Karmouss  (PI.  G,  7,  8),  which  leads  hence  to 
the  S.  to  the  MahmUdiyeh  Canal,  and  diverging  to  the  right  via 
the  Rue  Bab  el-Melouk.  we  pass  a  small  mosque  and  reach  (10  min.) 
the  entrance  (PI.  'E.';  F,  8)  to  the  — 

*Cataeombs  ofKom  esh-Shukafa  (PI.  F,  8;  'hill  of  pot- 
sherds'), an  Egyptian  burial-place  of  the  2nd  cent.  A.D.,  hewn  in 
the  rock.    Adm.  from  8  a.m.  till  dusk  (5  pias.;  see  also  p.  432). 

The  tombs,  discovered  in  1900,  consist  of  several  stories  and  afford  an 
excellent  example  of  the  characteristic  Alexandrine  blend  of  the  Egyptian 
with  the  Grseco-Roman  style.  They  probably  belonged  to  some  Egyptian 
magnate.  Around  the  principal  chamoers  are  plainer  vaults  for  the  domes- 
tics of  the  family.  Modern  stairs  ascend  to  the  restored  entrance  on  the 
hill-top.  The  interior  is  rendered  accessible  by  wooden  bridges  and  lighted 
by  electricity,  but  is  partly  under  water. 

A  spiral  staircase,  lighted  by  a  large  round  shaft,  descends  near  a 
sarcophagus-chamber  of  later  date  to  two  stories.  From  the  entrance  to 
the  upper  story  we  enter  a  rotunda  covered  with  a  kind  of  dome.  On 
the  right  are  two  smaller  vaults  with  niches,  sarcophagi,  and  shelf-tombs 
(loculi).  On  the  left  is  a  large  chamber,  the  Triclinium  Funebre,  used  for 
funeral  banquets. 

The  stairs  divide  farther  down,  affording  a  survey  of  the  principal 
chambers,  and  lead  round  the  entrance  to  the  *Tomb  Chapel  on  the  lowest 
floor,  with  three  niches  for  sarcophagi.  Bound  the  chapel  runs  a  gallery, 
accessible  from  the  vestibule,  with  91  shelf-tombs. 

An  important  thoroughfare,  leading  to  the  N.E.  from  the  Rue 
Abou  Dardah  (p.  434),  is  the  Rue  Sidi  el-Metwalli  (PI.  F,  G,  5,  4), 
with  its  continuation  the  Rue  de  la  Porte  de  Rosette  (PI.  F-I, 
4,3).  These  streets  unite  at  the  end  of  the  busy  Rue  Cherif  Pacha 
(PI.  F,  G,4),  a  street  of  shops,  coming  from  the  Place  M6hemet  Ali 
(p.  4  34).  This  thoroughfare  corresponds  with  the  E.  half  of  the 
Dromos,  the  main  street  of  the  ancient  city,  which  ended  at  the 
Canopic  Gatr,  the  site  of  the  now  removed  Porte  de  Rosette.  In 
the  Rue  du  Musee,  a  N.  side-street,  is  the  — 


436     Route  69.  ALEXANDRIA. 

*Museum  (PI.  H,  3),  a  building  in  the  Greek  style,  which  con- 
tains an  extensive  collection  of  Grseco-Roman  antiquities,  mostly 
Alexandrine,  found  in  catacombs  and  tombs.  Adm.  daily,  9-12  and 
3  to  5.30,  2  pias.  (see  also  p.  432;  closed  on  Thurs.  in  summer). 

From  the  ante-room  we  see  the  statue  of  Hercules  in  the  transverse 
gallery  between  the  main  wings  of  the  building  (see  below).  The  side- 
room  contains  a  topographical  collection.  Room  I  (on  the  right).  Christian 
antiquities,  including  tombstones  and  some  of  the  terracotta  flasks  in  which 
pilgrims  brought  holy  oil  from  the  tomb  of  St.  Menas  (d.  296)  at  Mariut. — 
Rooms  II-V.    Alexandrian  coins,  stamps  from  Greek  amphorse,  etc. 

Room  VI.  Inscriptions  and  tombstones.  On  the  right,  Ptolemaic 
♦Tombstones  (Nos.  83,  97,  etc.),  resembling  those  of  Attica  in  the  4th  cent. 
B.C.  — Rooms  VII-IX.  Egyptian  antiquities.  (In  Boom  VIII,  No.  380. 
Fine  bas-relief  with  a  man,  a  harper,  and  singing-women.) 

Rooms  X  &  XI.  Egvptian  monuments  and  smaller  sculptures.  (In 
R.  XI,  No.  3704.  Portrait-head  in  black  basalt.)  — Rooms  XII  &  XIII. 
Portrait-busts  and  sculptures.  (In  R.  XII,  Case  B,  admirable  small  busts 
of  Alexander;  *66.  Marble  Head  of  Hercules  or,  according  to  others,  of 
Zeus.) 

Rooms  XIV  &  XV.  Architectural  fragments.  (In  R.  XV,  No.  3,  paint- 
ed capitals  from  palaces  of  the  Ptolemies.)  —  Room  XVI.  Sculptures. 

Rooms  XVII  &  XVIII.  Small  objects  of  art.  In  R.  XVII  glass; 
mummies  with  portraits  of  the  deceased  painted  on  wood  (2nd  cent.  A.I).). 
In  R.  XVIII  small  clay  figures  of  the  Ptolemaic  and  Soman  periods; 
among  the  former,  *Figures  of  girls  in  the  style  of  the  Tanagra  figurines. 

Room  XIX.  A  mosaic  and  cinerary  urns  from  Shatbi.  —  Room  XX. 
Tomb  accessories.  —  Room  XXI.  Objects  from  tombs,  including  elegant 
bronze  wreaths;  terracotta  figures.  —  Room  XXII.  Architectural  frag- 
ments; mosaics  from  Canopus. 

In  the  gallery  crossing  the  garden  is  a  colossal  figure  of  Hercules. 

From  the  Museum  the  Rue  du  Musee  to  the  N.W.,  the  broad 
Rue  d'Allemagne  to  the  left,  and  the  Rue  Missala  to  the  right  soon 
lead  to  the  old  Ramleh  Raihvay  Station,  now  used  for  the  electric 
line  (see  p.  431)  to  Ramleh  (i.  e.  'sand'),  a  villa  suburb  and  sea- 
bathing place,  inhabited  in  summer  by  wealthy  Alexandrians  and 
Cairenes.  At  San  Stefano,  the  terminus,  is  the  Hotel  Casino  San 
Stefano,  with  a  theatre  and  concert-rooms  (adm.  5  pias.). 

From  Alexandria  to  Cairo,  see  R.  71. 

70.  Port  Said. 

Arrival.  The  steamers  moor  alongside  the  Quai  Francois-Joseph 
or  in  the  Bassin  Ismail.  If  they  are  not  berthed  at  the  quay  the  fare 
for  landing  at  the  Custom  House  (PI.  8)  is  l1/2-2'/g  piastres  (trunk  2, 
small  packages  1  pias.).  The  North  German  Lloyd  provides  a  steam- 
tender  in  winter,  which  lands  passengers  free  of  charge.  Heavy  luggage 
had  better  be  entrusted  to  one  of  the  hotel-porters,  or  to  an  agent  of 
Messrs.  Cook  (comp.  p.  431)  or  of  the  Hamburg-American  Line. 

Railway  Station  near  Lake  Menzaleh  (p.  418),  10  min.  to  the  W. 
of  the  Custom  House. 

Hotels.  *Eastern  Exchange  Hotel  (PI.  a),  Rue  Sultan  Osman,  pens, 
from  12s.,  English  house;  *Savoy  (PI.  d),  corner  of  Quai  Francois-Joseph 
and  Rue  el-Tegara,  with  restaurant  and  bar,  pens,  from  62  pias. ;  Hot. 
Continental  (PI.  b),  Rue  el-Tegara,  with  bar,  pens.  10s.  &d. ;  Hot.  de  la 
Poste  (PI.  c),  Rue  du  Nil. 

Cab  from  the  quay  to  the  station  4  (at  night  5)  pias. 


PORT -SAID 

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PORT  SAID.  w.  Route.     437 

Post  Offices.  Egyptian  (PI.  Id)  and  French  (PI.  15),  Rue  du  Nil.  — 
Telegraph  Offices.  Egyptian  (PI.  18),  Rue  el-Tegara;  Eastern  Tele- 
graph Co.  (PI.  17),  Quai  Framjois-Joseph,  for  Europe. 

Consulates  at  the  Quai  Francois-Joseph.  British  (PI.  3):  consul- 
general,  E.  C.  Bitch;  vice-consul,  T.  D.  Dunlop.  —  United  States  (PI.  2): 
consular  agent,  H.  Broadbent. 

Tourist  Agents.  Thos.  Cook  &  Son,  Quai  Francois-Joseph;  F.  O. 
Clark,  Savoy  Hotel;  Hamburg-American  Line,  Rue  du  Nil. 

Steamboat  Offices.  All  the  important  companies  have  offices  on 
the  quay.    L.  Savon  &  Co.  (Societa  Nazionale)   are  also  Lloyd's  Agents. 

Banks.  Bank  of  Egypt  and  Credit  Lyonnais,  Rue  du  Nil;  National 
Bank  of  Egypt,  Rue  Eugenie;  Ottoman,  Bassin  du  Commerce.  —  Money, 
see  p.  431. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Curling,  Dr.  W.  Hayward  (Egyptian  Government 
Hospital);  Dr.  E.  Cuffey  (Lady  Strangford  Hospital);  Dr.  J.  H.  Wigham. 

English  Church.  Church  of  the  Epiphany  ('Eglise  angl.'  on  Plan), 
Rue  el-Tegara ;  services  every  Sun.  at  10.30  a.  m.  and  6  p.  m. 

Part  Said  (pop.  42,000,  incl.  11,300  Europeans)  lies  at  the  E. 
end  of  the  strip  of  land  between  Lake  Menzaleh  (p.  418)  and  the 
open  sea,  at  the  N.  end  of  the  Suez  Canal,  to  which  it  owes  its 
foundation.    Its  trade,  chiefly  through-traffic,  is  growing  rapidly. 

The  Harbour  of  570  acres  has  a  depth  of  26  ft.,  which  is  main- 
tained by  laborious  dredging.  It  is  sheltered  by  two  massive 
breakwaters,  the  Jetee  Ouest,  2460  yds.  long,  with  a  statue  of  Ferd. 
de  Lessens  (1805-94),  the  builder  of  the  Suez  Canal  (1859-69),  and 
the  Jetee  Est,  1750  yds.  long.  The  former  protects  it  against  the 
mud  of  the  Nile.  Between  these  is  the  Digue  Nouvelle,  an  inner 
breakwater  597  yds.  long,  for  shelter  against  E.  winds ;  on  the  main- 
land opposite  (to  the  W.)  rises  the  *Phare,  a  lighthouse  174  ft. 
high,  visible  23  M.  away. 

The  inner  harbour  of  220  acres  consists  of  the  Bassin  Ismail 
(with  its  three  very  shallow  creeks),  the  Bassin  des  Chalands 
Charbvnniers,  and  the  Bassin  Abbas  Hilmi  or  Africa  Basin, 
with  the  quarantine  establishment. 

The  Rue  Quai  du  Nord  (tramway)  leads  to  the  N.W.  to  the 
Quartier  Arabe. 

71.  Prom  Alexandria  or  Port  Said  to  Cairo. 

From  Alexandria  to  Cairo,  130  M.,  express  in  3,  ordinary  train  in 
6-611/.,  hrs. ;  1st  cl.  SVI2,  2nd  cl.  44  pias.  —  From  Port  Said  to  Cairo, 
145  M.,  express  (with  dining-car)  in  4-4'/4,  ordinary  in  5  hrs.;  96  or 
48  pias.  —  As  to  transport  of  luggage,  see  p.  431. — The  bullets  at  the 
intermediate  stations  are  poor. 

Alexandria,  see  p.  431.  The  Cairo  railway,  the  oldest  in  the 
East  (1855),  rounds  Lake  Mareotis  (p.  432),  which  during  the 
Nile  inundation  rises  at  places  to  the  permanent  way.  On  the  left 
is  the  MalimUdiyeh  Canal  (p.  434). 

On  the  right  beyond  (17  M.)  Kafr  ed-D&w&r  appear  the  first 
cotton-fields.  —  38  M.  Damanh&r  (pop.  22,100),  the  ancient  Egyp- 
tian Tiiite-cn-IIor  (town  of  Horus)  and  Roman  Iltrmvpolis  Parva, 


438     Route  71.  TANTA. 

is  now  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Beheireh,  which  extends  from 
the  Rosetta  arm  of  the  Nile  (p.  418)  to  the  Libyan  desert. 

The  soil  becomes  more  fertile.  Villages  of  wretched  mud-huts 
and  a  few  groups  of  trees  appear.  We  cross  the  Rosetta  Arm. 
64y2  M.  Kafr  ez-Zaiydi. 

76  M.  Tanta  (Buffet;  Hot.  Khedivial,  etc.;  Brit.  cons,  agent, 
E.  Erba;  pop.  80,000),  capital  of  the  province  of  Gharbiyeh,  be- 
tween the  Rosetta  and  Damietta  arms  (p.  418),  possesses  a  palace 
of  the  Khedive  and  an  unfinished  mosque  of  Seiyid  el-Bedawi,  a 
popular  Egyptian  saint,  born  at  Fez  (12th  cent.).  The  great  August 
fair  (el-Mulid  el-Kebir ;  'the  great  mnlid',  or  nativity  of  the  saint) 
is  often  attended  by  hali'-a-million  persons,  including  a  number  of 
European  merchants. 

Farther  on  we  pass  several  cotton-cleaning  mills,  evidencing 
the  prosperity  of  this  region,  and  then  cross  the  Damietta  Arm. 

101  M.  Benha  (Buffet),  junction  of  the  Port  Said  (see  below) 
and  Suez  lines,  is  noted  for  its  fruit.  120'/2  M.  Kalyilb  (or 
Qualioub). 

The  Libyan  hills  become  more  prominent;  so  also  the  Molcat- 
tam  Hills  (p.  443)  and  the  citadel  with  the  slender  minarets  of  the 
mosque  of  Mohammed  Ali  (p.  454).  Gardens  and  villas  appear.  On 
the  left  are  the  site  of  ancient  Heliopolis  (p.  459;  obelisk  not 
visible),  Matariyeh  with  its  sycamores,  Kubbeh,  the  residence  of 
the  Khedive,  and  the  suburb  of  Abbasiyeh  (p.  459). 

130  M.   Cairo  (chief  station),  see  p.  439. 


Port  Said,  see  p.  436.  The  Cairo  line  at  first  skirts  the  W.  bank 
of  the  Suez  Canal  (p.  437).    On  the  right  lies  Lake  Menzaleh. 

Beyond  (28  M.)  El-Kantara  ('the  bridge'),  the  isthmus  between 
lakes  Menzaleh  and  Balah,  traversed  by  the  time-honoured  mili- 
tary and  caravan  route  from  Egypt  to  Syria,  we  cross  the  bed  of 
the  latter  lake,  now  largely  drained. 

We  next  cross  El-Gisr  ('the  barrier'),  a  hill  52  ft.  high,  be- 
tween lakes  Balah  and  Timsdh  ('crocodile'),  once  the  most  serious 
obstacle  in  the  way  of  the  canal. 

49  M.  Ismailiya,  or  Isma'ilia  (Buffet;  pop.  7000),  junction 
for  Suez,  a  quiet  little  town  on  the  N.  bank  of  Lake  Timsah. 

The  train  now  runs  to  the  W.  through  the  Arabian  Desert, 
intersected  here  by  the  Wddi  TUmildt,  and  skirts  the  Ismailiyeh 
Canal  (p.  454). 

Near  (85  M.)  Abu  Hammdd  begins  the  well-watered  and  well- 
planted  E.  part  of  the  Nile  Delta.  To  the  S.  of  the  railway  lies 
the  Biblical  land  of  Goshen  (Gen.  xlv.  10),  which  was  miserably 
neglected  during  the  Turkish  period,  but  has  now  awakened  to 
new  life. 


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General 


Practical  Notes.  CAIRO.  7/.  Route.     439 

97  M.  Zakazlk  (Buffet;  Brit.  cons,  agent,  G.  Diacono;  pop. 
60,000),  capital  of  the  E.  Egyptian  province  of  Sharkiyeh,  fav- 
ourably situated  at  the  junction  of  several  railways  and  on  the 
Mutes  Canal  (part  of  the  ancient  Tanite  arm  of  the  Nile,  seep.  418), 
is  a  rapidly  improving  place.  It  is  the  chief  seat  of  the  Egyptian 
cotton  and  grain  trade.  The  large  cotton-mills  give  some  quarters 
nf  the  town  quite  a  European  look. — Near  Tell  Basta,  1j2  hr.  to 
the  S.E.  of  Zakazik,  are  the  ruius  of  the  ancient  Bubastis  (Egyp. 
Per-Baste,  the  Pi-beseih  of  Ezekiel  xxx.  17). 

116  M.   Benha,  and  thence  to  (145  M.)  Cairo,  see  p.  438. 


Cairo.f 

Railway  Stations.  1.  Central  Station  (PI.  B,  1 ;  Buffet),  for  Alexan- 
dria, Port  S;iitl,  and  Upper  Egypt,  to  the  N.W.  of  the  town,  beyond  the 
Ismailiyeh  Canal,  V2  M.  from  the  Ezbekiyeh.  —  2.  Pont  Limun  Station,  or 
Gare  dc  Matariyeh,  adjoining  the  central,  for  Matariyeh  (Old  Heliopolis), 
for  the  electric  line  to  the  Heliopolis  Oasis  (see  p.  441),  etc.  —  3.  Bab  el- 
Luk  Station  (PI.  B,  5),  for  Helwan  (p.  464). — The  hotel  omnibuses  and  the 
porters  and  tourist-agents  (p.  441)  await  the  arrival  of  the  express  trains. 
Or  an  Arab  porter,  wearing  a  metal  badge  on  his  arm,  may  be  engaged  to 
carry  luggage  to  an  omnibus  or  a  cab  (tariff,  see  p.  441).  Heavy  luggage  is 
taken  to  the  hotels  in  separate  vehicles. 

Hotels  (mostly  in  the  English  style  and  excellent,  but  generally 
crowded  in  Jan. -March;  advisable  to  telegraph  for  rooms  from  Alexandria 
or  Port  Said;  closed  in  summer  or  charges  reduced). 

In  the  Toicn:  *Shepheakd's  Hotel  (PI.  B,  3),  Sharia  Kainel,  with 
terrace,  garden,  restaurant,  bar,  post-office,  etc.,  pens,  from  80  pias., 
patronized  by  American  and  English  travellers;  *Savoy  (PI.  B,  4),  Midan 
Suleiman  Basha,  pens,  from  80  pias.,  with  excellent  restaurant  (dej.  30, 
D.  50  pias.);  *Semiramis  (PI.  A,  5),  Kasr  ed-Dubara,  on  the  Nile,  with 
garden  and  roof-terrace,  restaurant,  post-office,  etc.,  pens,  from  80  pias.; 
♦Continental.  (PI.  B,  C,  3),  Place  de  l'Op^ra,  with  terrace,  restaurant,  etc., 
pens,  from  70  pias.,  frequented  by  English  travellers;  *H0t.  d'Angleterre 
(PI.  B,  3),  Sharia  el-Maghrabi,  with  terrace,  etc.,  pens.  70-80  pias.  —  *National 
(P1.B,3),  Sharia  Suleiman  Basha,  pens,  from  50 pias. ;  New  Khedivial  Hotel 
(PI.  B,  2),  Sharia  Bab  el-Hadid,  pens,  from  45  pias.;  Eden  Palace  (PI.  C,  3), 
Sbaria  el-Genai'neh,  pens,  from  50  pias.,  frequented  by  English  and  American 
travellers;  Villa  Victoria  (PI.  B,  8;  private  hotel),  Sharia  Shawarbi  Basha, 
quiet  and  well-situated,  pens.  70  pias.;  Villa  Nationals,  Sharia  Shawarbi 
Basha  (PI.  B,  3),  also  a  private  hotel,  with  garden  and  tennis-court,  pens. 
50  pias.;  Bristol  &  do  Nil  (PI.  C,  2,  3),  Midan  el-Khaznedar,  pens,  from 
65  pias.,  commended;  Metropolis  (PI.  B,  C,  3),  Haret  Zogbeb,  pens. 
50-60  pias.,  well  spoken  of;  Hot. -Pens.  Rossmore  House  (English),  Sharia 
el-Madabegh  13,  pens.  40-50  pias.  —  Hot.  des  Votageurs  (PI.  B,  2),  Sharia 
Nubar   Basha,    pens.    45-50  pias.,    with   good   cuisine,    patronized    by   the 

f  A  Street  is  often  called  sikkeh  or  tarik.  A  sharia  (French  chareh) 
is  an  avenue  or  boulevard;  derb  is  a  road  (also  caravan-route);  hdra,  a 
lane  (also  quarter  of  the  city);  atfa,  a  blind  alley  or  cul-de-sac;  midan, 
a  square.  Most  of  the  names  have  been  affixed,  since  the  British  occupa- 
tion, in  Arabic  character  and  in  English  or  French  transliteration.  It 
Bhoiild  be  noted  that  in  the  Plan  and  in  the  text  the  English  ee  is  replaced 
by  the  continental  and  more  usual  i  or  i  and  the  French  ou  or  English  00 
usually  by  u  or  6. 


440     Route  71.  CAIRO.  Practical 

French;  Hot.  Royal  (PI.  C,  2),  Sharia  Wagh  el-Birket,  with  bodega,  pens. 
60pias.;  H6t.  de  Londres  (PI.  B,  2,  3),  Sharia  Kamel,  pens.  40  pias. ; 
Hot. -Pens.  Suisse,  Sharia  el-Genaineh  10  (PI.  C,  8),  pens.  33-40  pias. 

On  the  Island  of  Gezireh  (p.  457):  *Ghezireh  Palace  Hotel,  with 
restaurant,  large  gardens,  daily  concerts,  etc.,  open  Dec-April,  pens,  from 
80  pias.  (electr.  omnibus  to  station;  motor  to  Shepheard's  and  Semiramis 
Hotels  frequently). 

At  the  Heliopolis  Oasis  (p.  459) :  Heliopolis  Palace  Hotel,  a  new  ex- 
tensive establishment  of  the  first  class,  on  the  Metropolitan  Line  (p.  441), 
with  all  modern  appliances,  a  garden,  pavilion,  etc.,  open  in  winter  only, 
pens.  80-150  pias. ;  *Heliopolis  House,  a  first-class  family-hotel,  opposite 
the  former,  with  a  large  terrace,  restaurant,  American  bar,  and  concerts, 
pens.  40-50  pias.;  Pens.  Belle- Vue,  with  restaurant  (dej.  12,  D.  16  pias.), 
pens.  40  pias. 

Near  the  Pyramids  of  Gizeh  (p.  461):  *Mena  House  Hotel,  with  res- 
taurant, swimming-bath,  tennis-courts,  golf-links,  riding-track,  etc.,  open 
1st  Nov.  to  15th  May,  pens.  60-100  pias. ;  Sphinx  Hotel,  near  Kafr  el-Haram 
(p.  463),  a  village  10  min.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  tramway-station,  new,  pens, 
from  10s. 

Restaurants  at  the  hotels,  with  grill-rooms.  Also  Santi,  in  the  Ezbe- 
kiyeh Garden,  dej.  20,  D.  25  pias.;  St.  James's,  Sharia  Bulak,  opposite  the 
Egyptian  Telegraph  Office;  Restaurant  du  Nil,  Sharia  Elfi  Bey,  d£j.  14, 
D.  16  pias.;  Hermes,  Sharia  Kamel,  opposite  the  Ezbekiyeh  Garden. 

Bars  &  Cafes.  New  Bar,  Place  de  l'Op6ra;  Splendid  Bar,  Sharia 
Kamel;  Bar  High  Life,  Sharia  Wagh  el-Birket  42.  —  European  style,  but 
not  for  ladies:  Sphinx  Bar,  Sharia  Bulak,  with  grill-room;  Cafe  Eyyptien, 
opposite  Shepheard's  Hotel,  with  female  orchestra;  Eldorado,  Sharia  Wagh 
el-Birket.  —  The  Arabian  caf^s  (kuhwd's)  are  small  and  dirty. 

Confectioners.  Lehrenkrauss,  Sharia  Kasr  en-Nil  34,  with  tea- 
rooms; Sault,  GroppA,  both  Sharia  el-Manakb. 

Beer.  Restaurant  Falck,  Sharia  el-Mahdi  (PI.  B,  C,  2,  3) ;  Bavaria, 
Midan  Kantaret  ed-Dikkeh  (PI.  B,  2),  good  restaurant  (d£j.  12,  D.  15  pias.); 
Kemmler,  in  the  street  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Credit  Lyonnais  (p.  442) ; 
Flasch,  near  the  Ezbekiyeh  Garden. 

Tramways  (fare  1  or  '/2  pias.  unless  otherwise  stated;  separate  com- 
partment for  women).  The  following  are  the  chief  lines:  1.  From  the  Atabet 
el-Khadra  (PI.  C,  3)  to  Place  de  1' Opera  (PI.  C,  3),  Sharia  Bulak  (PI.  B,  A,  3), 
Kasr  en-Nil  (Egyptian  Museum),  Kasr  el-Aini  (PI.  A,  7),  Roda,  Gizeh  Vil- 
lage, and  the  Pyramids  (Mena  House,  see  above),  every  30  (aftern.  every  20) 
min.;  fare  4  or  2  pias.  —  2.  From  the  Atabet  el-Khadra  to  Bab  el-Khalk 
(PI.  D,  4;  Arab  Museum),  Sharia  Khalig  el-Masri,  Place  Seiyideh  Zeinab 
(PI.  C,  6),  Sharia  Mawardi,  and  the  Abattoirs  (beyond  PI.  B,  C,  7),  every 
7'/2  min.  —  3.  From  the  Midan  el-Khazneddr  (PI.  C,  3)  to  Kasr  en-Nil, 
Kasr  el-Aini  (PI.  A,  7),  Geziret  Roda  (p.  461),  Pont  Abbas  II.,  and  the 
Village  of  Gizeh  (p.  461),  every  10  min.;  fare  2  or  1  pias.  —  4.  From  the 
Midan  el-Khazneddr  to  Midan  Bab  el-Luk  (PI.  B,  4),  Midan  Ismailiyeh 
(PI.  A,  4,  5;  for  the  Great  Nile  Bridge  and  Egyptian  Museum),  Sharia 
Kasr  el-Aini,  Fum  el-Khalig  (PI.  A,  7),  and  Old  Cairo,  every  6V2  min. 
—  5.  From  Kasr  en-Nil  (Gezireh,  p.  457)  to  Zoological  Garden  and  Village 
of  Gizeh,  every  10  min.  —  6.  From  Buldk  (p.  454)  to  Sharia  Ahou  el-Ela 
(PI.  A,  3),  Sharia  Bulak,  Atabet  el-Khadra  (see  above),  Bab  el-Khalk  (see 
above),  and  the  Citadel  (Place  Rumeileh;  PI.  E,  6),  every  3  min.  —  7.  From 
Zabtiijeh  (Shubra),  to  Central  Station  (PI.  B,  1),  Sharia  Clot  Bey,  Atabet 
el-Khadra,  Midan  Bab  el-Luk  (PI.  B,  4),  and  Midan  Nasriyeh  (PI.  B,  5), 
every  3  min.  — 8.  From  Central  Station  (PI.  B,  1)  to  Sharia  Abbas  (PI. 
B,  A,  2,  3),  Sharia  Mariette  Basha  (PI.  A,  4;  Egyptian  Museum),  Kasr  en- 
Nil,  Midan  el-Azhdr  (PI.  B,  4:  Gare  de  Bab  el-Luk),  every  9  min. — 
9.  From  Ghamra  (to  the  N.  of  PI.  D,  1)  to  Midan  ez-Zahir  (PI.  D,  E,  1), 
Bab  esh-Shariyeh  (PI.  D,  2),  Muski,  Bab  el-Khalk,  and  thence  as  No.  2, 
every  6  min.  — 10.  From  the  Atabet  el-Khadra  (PI.  C,  3)  via  the  Place  de 
l'Opera,   Sharia  BfUak,   Sharia  Iinad  ed-Din  (PI.  B,  3,  2),  Bab  el-Hadid 


Notes.  CAIRO.  71.  Route.     441 

(PI.  B,  1),  and  Abbasiyeh  to  the  Hdiopolis  Oasis  (p.  459),  every  10  min.; 
in  ca.  50  min. ;  fare  l'/g  or  1  pias. 

Electric  Railway  ('Mctropolitain')  from  the  Pont  Limvn  Station 
(PI.  B,  1)  every  10  min.  (from  6.30  a.m.  till  12  p.m.)  to  the  Hdiopolis 
Oasis  (p.  459),  in  10  min.;  fares  1st  cl.  2,  2nd  cl.  1  pias. 

Steam  Ferries  between  Bulak  (Sharia  Abou  el-Ela;  to  the  "W.  of 
PI.  V.  3;  corresponding  with  tramway  No.  6)  and  Gezireh  (p.  457),  and 
between  Old  Cairo  (p.  460;  corresponding  with  tramway  No.  4)  and  the 
village  of  Gizeh  (p.  461).  —  Local  Steamers  from  the  Bulak  Bridge  (PI.  A,  4) 
to  Bulak. 

Cabs  (comp.  p.  431),  open  victorias  with  two  horses,  abound  in  the 
European  quarters  and  tourist-resorts.  Closed  cabs  (landaus)  usually  have 
to  be  ordered,  and  the  fares  are  higher.  The  Tariff  (in  cab)  is  for 
1-3  pers.  (each  adilit.  pers.  2,  trunk  1  pias.)  as  follows: 

1.  Drive  within  a  radius  of  4  kil.  (2'/2  M.)  from  the  Administration 
Building  (Gouvernorat ;  PI.  D,  4),  for  1  kil.  3,  each  addit.  kil.  2  pias.;  if 
dismissed  outside  the  zone  named,  2  pias.  more  per  kil.;  waiting,  up  to 
1li  hr.,  2  pias. 

2.  By  Time  (Arab,  bis-saa),  in  town  1  hr.  10,  each  addit.  >/4  hr.  2  pias. ; 
per  day  (12  hrs.)  70  pias. 

3.  Longer  Drives.  To  the  Citadel  10,  and  back  20  pias.  (incl.  stay  of 
1  hr.);  to  Old  Cairo  12  or  18  pias.  (halt  of  1  hr.);  to  the  Pyramids  50  or 
80  pias.  (halt  of  3  hrs.) :  to  the  Heliopolis  Oasis  30  or  50  pias.  (halt  of  2  hrs.). 

A  gratuity  (bakshish)  of  5-10  per  cent  over  the  fare  is  usually  given. 
Complaints,  with  the  number  of  the  cab  and  other  details,  should  be 
lodged  at  the  police-office  (p.  4 12).  During  the  season  the  demands  of  the 
cabmen  are  often  exorbitant,  but  the  mere  mention  of  the  dreaded  word 
'karakdl'  (prison)  generally  brings  them  to  reason. 

Motor  Cabs  (with  taximeter):  3>/a  pias.  for  the  first  1200  metres 
(»/4M.),  1  pias.  each  addit.  400  metres  (V4  M.),  waiting  1  pias.  for  each 
5  min.  In  addition  to  these  fares  a  surtax  must  be  paid  for  each  drive 
as  follows :  from  or  to  the  Mena  House  (Pyramids)  10  pias.,  Heliopolis 
8  pias.,  Citadel,  Gizeh  5  pias.,  Gezireh  8  pias. 

Donkeys  (Arabic  homdr;  per  hour  about  2,  day  12  pias.)  abound.  They 
are  pleasant  on  bridle-paths  free  from  dust.  The  donkey-boys  (hammdr) 
often  lash  the  animals  into  a  gallop,  but  this  should  be  checked.  Ala 
mahlak  means  'slow',  erbut  or  the  English  stop  'halt'.  The  bakshish 
should  be  of  course  proportioned  to  the  donkey-boy's  behaviour. 

Post  Office  (PI.  C,  3;  p.  446),  corner  of  Sharia  Tahir  and  Sharia  el- 
Baidak.  The  outside-offices,  for  the  sale  of  stamps  only,  are  open  from 
7.30  a.m.  to  9.30  p.m.  (inland  letter  '!■>,  in  postal  union  1  pias.;  post-cards 
3  and  4  mill.).  The  offices  inside  are  open  from  9  to  6.30,  with  a  short 
break  at  12.30.  Lists  of  the  over-sea  mails  are  exhibited  in  the  vestibule. 
Notice  of  the  arrival  of  registered  letters  is  sent  to  the  addressee,  who 
obtains  delivery  by  producing  the  notice,  stamped  by  the  hotel  or  signed 
by  some  well-known  person.  Branch-offices  at  Shepheard's,  the  Conti- 
nental, Ghezireh  Palace,  and  Mena  House.    Letter-boxes  at  all  the  hotels. 

Telegraph  Office.  Eastern  Telegraph  Co.  (PI.  B,  3),  corner  of  Sharia 
Imad  ed-Din  and  Sharia  el-Manakh.  Egyptian  (PI.  B,  3),  Sharia  Bulak, 
corner  of  Sharia  Imad  ed-Din.  —  Branches  at  Shepheard's,  the  Credit  Lyon- 
nais,  and  Ghezireh  Palace. 

Consulates.  Great  Britain,  Sharia  Gamia  esh-Sherkes  (PI.  B,  4)i 
consul-general  and  plenipotentiary,  Sir  Arthur  Hardinge ;  consul,  A.  D. 
Alban;  vice-consul  R.  M.  Graves.  —  United  States,  Kasr  ed-Dubara: 
consul-general  and  plenipotentiary,  P.  A.  Jay;  vice-consul,  L.  Belrose. 
Also  French,  German,  Austrian,  Italian,  etc. 

Tourist  Agents.  Thos.  Cook  &  Son  (PI.  B,  2,  3),  Sharia  Kamel  6; 
Lubin,  Sharia  Bulak  5;  F.  C.  Clark,  near  Shepheard's;  Hamburg- American 
Line,  Hot.  Continental  (PI.  B,  C,  3);  D.  E.  ilunari,  Sharia  Kamel  5. 


442     Route  7/.  CAIRO.  Practical  Notes. 

Steamboat  Offices.  Khedivial  Mail,  White  Star,  Union  Castle, 
Thos.  Cook  &  Son  (see  p.  441) ;  Messageries  Maritimes,  Sharia  el-Magh- 
rabi 10;  Societa  Nazionale,  Figari,  Sharia  el-Maghrabi  33;  Austrian  Lloyd, 
Heller,  same  street,  No.  2 ;  North  German  Lloyd,  Rumanian  State  Mari- 
time Service,  Sterzing,  Place  de  l'Opera  3;  German  East  African  Line, 
Fix  &  David,  Sharia  Mansur  Basha;  Russian  Steam  Navigation  &  Trad- 
ing Co.,  Alchewsky,  Sharia  el-Manakh  6.  —  Notices  of  departure  also  posted 
in  the  hotels. 

Police  Office  (PI.  D,  4;  p.  450;  ZabtiyeTi).  About  300  officials,  incl. 
a  few  Europeans,  chiefly  Italians,  obliging  to  strangers  and  well  organized. 
Complaints  against  the  police  must  be  lodged  at  the  traveller's  consulate. 

Banks.  Cre'dit  Lyonnais  (PI.  C,  3),  Sharia  el-Bosta;  Ottoman  (P1.B,3), 
Sharia  Imad  ed-Din  13;  Bank  of  Egypt  (PI.  B,  3,  4),  Sharia  Kasr  en-Nil  17; 
Anglo-Egyptian,  Sharia  el-Manakh;  National  Bank  of  Egypt,  Sharia  Kasr 
en-Nil  35;  Deutsche  Orientbank  (PI.  B,  3),  Sharia  el-Manakh  23;  Banque 
d'Athenes. 

Shops.  Booksellers.  Diemer,  at  Shepheard's  Hotel;  British  Library, 
opposite  the  Savoy.  —  Photographs,  at  Diemer's;  also  sold  by  Dittrich, 
Sharia  Elfi  Bey;  Paul,  Sharia  el-Manakh  26.  —  Embroidery,  Carpets, 
and  various  Oriental  Articles  (mostly  made  in  Europe):  Chellaram, 
Hot.  Continental;  Madjar,  at  Shepheard's;  Spartali,  opposite  the  Savoy; 
J.  Cohen,  Valliram  Bros.,  and  other  dealers  in  the  Khan  el-Khalili  (p.  446). 
—  Arabian  Woodwork.  Purvis,  next  to  Shepheard's  (large  warehouse 
near  the  entrance  to  the  Muski,  p.  446;  to  the  left  in  the  court);  Haloun, 
Sikket  el-Gedideh  (PI.  D,  3) ;  Furino,  Sharia  Suleiman  Basha.  — Antiquities 
(genuine)  at  the  Egyptian  Museum  (p.  455). 

Physicians  (addresses  obtainable  at  the  hotels,  at  Diemer's,  or  at  the 
chemists').  Dr.  Keatinge  (head  of  the  Kasr  el-Aini  school  of  medicine), 
Dr.  Murison  (of  Victoria  Hospital),  Dr.  3filton,  Dr.  Phillips,  Dr.  Tribe, 
Dr.  Madden,   and  Dr.  Richards,   all  English;  Dr.  Keichline,  American. 

Chemists.  Pharmacie  Anglo- Amiricalne,  Place  de  l'Opera;  Pharm. 
Coscarelli,  Sharia  Abdin  17;  Pharm.  Nardi,  in  the  Muski;  Anglo-German 
Dispensary,  Sharia  el-Bawaki  11;  Savoy  Pharmacy  (Norton  &  Co.),  Sharia 
Kasr  en-Nil  34;  Stephenson  &  Co.,  Sharia  el  Manakb  15. 

Theatres.  Khedivial  Opera  (PI.  C,  3;  p.  446;  French  or  Italian),  boxes 
dear;  evening  dress  compulsory;  office  open  8-12  and  2-5. —  Theatre  Abbas 
(PI.  B,  2),  Sharia  Kantaret  ed-Dikkeh,  Ital.  operas  and  Fr.  operettas. — 
Theatre  Printania  (PI.  B,  3),  Sharia  Elfi  Bey.  —  Ex-Verdi,  Sharia  Bab 
el-Bahari  5,  Arabian  and  Greek. —  Nouveautis,  Sharia  Nubar  Basha  9;  Jar- 
din  de  Paris,  Sharia  Imad  ed-Din;  at  both  varieties.  —  Summer  Theatre, 
mostly  Italian  pieces,  in  the  Ezbekiyeh  Garden  (p.  445). — Evening  Con- 
certs by  English  military  bands  on  Tues.  and  Thurs.  in  the  Ezbekiyeh 
Garden  (p.  445). 

Churches.  Church  of  England  Services  at  All  Saints  Church  (PL 
B,  3),  Sharia  Bulak  (services  at  8  and  10.30  a.m.  and  6  p.m.),  and  at  St. 
Mary's  (PI.  A,  5),  Sharia  Kasr  el-Aini.  —  Church  of  Scotland  (St.  Andrew's; 
PI.  A,  3),  Sharia  Bulak,  to  the  S.  of  the  Bridge  of  Abu'l  Eileh. —  American 
Mission  (PI.  B,  C,  3),  opposite  Shepheard's.  —  Rom.  Cath.  (L'Assomption; 
PI.  D,  3),  Sharia  el-Banadkiah  2,  in  the  Muski;  St.  Joseph's,  in  the  Ismai- 
liyeh  quarter  (PI.  A,  B,  4).  —  Orthodox  Greek  (St.  Nicholas;  PI.  D,  2,  3), 
in  the  Hamzawi  (p.  447).  —  Coptic  Cath.  (PI.  D,  3)  and  Coptic  Orthodox 
(PI.  C,  2). —  New  Synagogue  (PI.  B,  3),  Sharia  el-Maghrabi,  and  others. 

CoHections  (closed  on  Frid.  and  Mohammedan  festivals):  Arab 
Museum  (p.  450),  9  to  4.30  (May-Oct.  8-1),  adm.  5  (in  summer  1)  pias. — 
Egyptian  Museum  (p.  455),  9  to  4.30  (May-Sept.  8.30  to  1),  adm.  5  (in 
summer  1)  pias.  —  Khedivial  Library  (p.  451),  exhibition-room  9-4,  free. 

Visitors  are  admitted  to  most  of  the  Mosques  (p.  xxv)  and  to  the 
Mameluke  Tombs  (p.  458)  daily  except  Frid.  and  at  the  hour  of  noonday 
prayer.  Ticket  (2  pias.)  at  the  entrance.  Fee  of  1I3-1  pias.  to  the  attendant 
who  supplies  slippers. 


History.  CAIRO.  71.  Route.     443 

Three  Days  (when  time  is  limited).  1st.  Forenoon,  Muski  (p.  446), 
Market  Quarter  (p.  446),  *Gdmia  el-Ashar  (p.  447),  Mtiristdn  Kdluun 
(p.  448),  *G(hnia  elrMvaiyad  (p.  450),  Bdb  Zmceileh  (p.  450);  afternoon, 
Mameluke  Tombs  (p.  458)  or  Gezireh  (p.  457)  or  Heliopolis  Oasis  (p.  459). 
—  2nd.  Forenoon,  Arab  Museum  (p.  450;  closed  Frid.),  Medreseh  Kd'it  Bey 
(p.  151),  *Gdmia  Ib/i  Tulun  (p.  451);  afternoon,  *Gdmia  Sultan  Hasan 
(p.  152),  Citadel  (p.  453).  — 3rd.  Forenoon,  *  Egyptian  Museum  (p.  455;  closed 
Frid.);  afternoon,  *Pyramid8  ofGizeh  (p.  461).  —  Intercourse  with  natives, 
see  p.  xxv.  —  Guides,  touts,  and  beggars  should  be  summarily  shaken  off. 

Cairo,  Arabic  El-Kdhira  or  Masr  el-Kdhira,  or  simply  Masr 
or  Misr  (after  the  old  Semitic  name  of  Egypt),  lies  in  30° 4'  N. 
lat.  and  31°  17'  E.  long.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Nile,  about 
12^2  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  'cow's  belly',  where  the  river  divides  into 
the  Rosetta  and  Damietta  arms  (p.  418).  —  On  the  E.  side  of  the 
city,  which  covers  an  area  of  about  11  sq.  M.,  rise  the  reddish 
rocky  slopes  of  the  Mokatlam  Hills  (p.  454;  about  650  ft.),  mark- 
ing the  beginning  of  the  Arabian  desert. 

Cairo,  the  largest  city  in  Africa  and  in  the  whole  of  the  Arabian 
world,  is  the  residence  of  the  Khedive  and  of  all  the  chief  authori- 
ties. The  population  is  estimated  at  630,000,  including  50,000 
Europeans,  chiefly  Greeks  and  Italians.  The  great  majority  of  the 
citizens  are  Egypto-Arabian,  Fellah  (peasant)  settlers,  Christian 
Copts  (also  nearly  pure  descendants  of  the  ancient  Egyptians), 
Nubians,  Turks,  Armenians,  and  (about  6000)  Jews;  then  negroes 
of  many  different  tribes,  Berbers  and  Arabs  from  the  N.  African 
seaboard,  Bedouins  (nomadic  Arabs),  Syrians,  Persians,  Indians. 
The  street  scenes  in  the  older  quarters  are  very  curious  and  pic- 
turesque. 

History.  In  hoar  antiquity  a  suburb  of  Heliopolis  (p.  459)  lay  on  the 
E.  bank  of  the  Nile,  opposite  the  great  Pyramids,  and  was  called  by  the 
Egyptians  Khere-ohe,  or  place  of  combat,  because  the  gods  Horus  and 
Seth,  the  tutelary  deities  of  Upper  and  Lower  Egypt  respectively,  are 
said  to  have  fought  there.  The  Greeks  called  it  Babylon,  probably  in 
imitation  of  the  Egyptian  name  of  the  island  of  Roda,  I'erhapi-n-On,  the 
'Nile  city  of  On'  (Heliopolis).  The  Roman  citadel  of  Babylon  was  gar- 
risoned under  Augustus  by  one  of  the  three  legions  stationed  in  Egypt. 
In  611  A.D.  the  town  was  conquered  by  Amr  ibn  el-Asi  (p.  433),  who 
founded  the  new  capital  of  the  country  in  the  plain  to  the  N.  of  the 
fortress,  a  city  which,  unlike  Alexandria,  was  to  be  free  from  the  hated 
Christian  element.  On  the  site  of  his  fostdt  or  tent  he  built  a  mosque, 
and  the  new  city  then  took  the  name  of  Foatat.  Between  Fostat  and  the 
citadel  and  adjoining  the  older  suburb  of  El-Askar  (of  815)  the  new 
quarter  of  El-Kat&i  was  began  by  Ahmed  ibn  Tulun  (868-83),  founder  of 
tin'  Egyptian  dynasty  of  the  Tulunides,  but  it  was  burned  down  in  905- 
The  Cairo  of  to-day  owes  its  origin  mainly  to  Gdhar,  the  general  of  the 
Fatimites  (p.  323),  who  conquered  Egypt  in  !n'>9  and  founded  a  new  town 
to  the  N.E.  of  El-Katai  and  made  it  the  residence  of  the  caliph  and  head 
quarters  of  his  army.  At  the  hour  when  its  foundations  were  laid  (he 
planet  Mars  (Arabic  Kahir,  'the  victorious')  is  said  to  have  crossed  the 
meridian  of  the  new  city,  whence  it  received  its  new  name  of  Masr  el- 
Kdhira  or  El-Kdhira,  while  Fostat  was  afterwards  called,  by  way  of 
distinction,  Masr  el-Kadimeh  or  el-Atika  (Old  Cairo).  In  973  Abu  Teminn 
el-Muise  transferred  his  residence  from  Mehdia  (p.  369)  to  Cairo.  Two 
centuries  later  the  famous  Saladin  comes  prominently  on  the  scene.  This 
was  the  Kurd  general  of  mercenaries,  Salaheddin  Yusuf  ibn  Aiyub ,  who, 

Baedeker's  Mediterranean.  29 


444     Route  71.  CAIRO.  History  of  Art. 

on  the  death  of  the  last  Fatimite  in  1171,  usurped  the  supreme  power. 
He  built  a  new  citadel  on  the  slope  of  the  Mokattam  Hills  and  enclosed  the 
whole  city  with  a  wall  29,000  ells  long  (p.  453),  and  Cairo  soon  became 
the  most  populous  place  in  N.  Africa  next  to  Fez.  Under  the  dynasty 
of  the  Aiyubides  (1171-1250)  and  the  Mameluke  Dynasties  (Bahrite,  1250-1382, 
and  Circassian  or  Borgite,  1382-1517),  the  sultans  chosen  from  the  white 
body-guard,  Cairo  witnessed  almost  continuous  scenes  of  revolution,  rapine, 
and  bloodshed.  In  1302  it  suffered  severely  also  from  an  earthquake,  and 
terribly  in  1295  and  1492  from  the  plague.  And  yet,  in  spite  of  all  these 
disasters,  the  city  grew  and  prospered  wonderfully. 

After  his  victory  at  Heliopolis  in  1517  the  Osman  sultan  Selim  I. 
(p.  542)  marched  into  Cairo;  Tiiman  Bey,  the  last  Mameluke  sultan,  was 
captured  and  executed;  and  Selim  caused  the  finest  marble  columns  in 
the  citadel  to  be  removed  to  Constantinople.  Cairo  now  became  the  seat 
of  a  bey  ('prince'),  who  was  placed  over  the  twenty-four  Mameluke  chiefs 
entrusted  with  the  government  of  Egypt  and  was  controlled  by  a  Turkish 
pasha.    Thenceforth  the  city  was  a  mere  provincial  capital. 

It  was  not  till  1798  that  Cairo  again  became  prominent  in  history. 
After  the  Battle  of  the  Pyramids  Bonaparte  had  his  headquarters  for 
several  months  in  the  ancient  city  of  the  caliphs.  From  Cairo  in  1799 
he  started  on  his  Syrian  expedition;  and  when  he  returned  to  France 
Kleber  remained  behind  as  commander-in-chief  of  the  French  troops.  Kleber 
was  assassinated  in  Cairo  in  1800,  and  the  following  year  the  French 
garrison,  hard  pressed  by  the  grand-vizier  and  the  British  troops,  had  to 
capitulate. 

Under  Mohammed  All  (1805-48),  the  new  Turkish  pasha,  with  whom 
begins  the  modern  chapter  in  the  chequered  history  of  Egypt,  and  who 
did  much  to  develop  the  resources  of  the  country,  the  citadel  of  Cairo 
witnessed  another  tragedy  in  1811,  when  by  his  order  the  last  of  the 
Mameluke  beys  were  shot  (comp.  p.  453).  His  successors,  particularly 
Ismail  (1863-79;  Khedive  or  viceroy  from  1867)  and  Tewfik  (Arabic  Taufik; 
1879-92),  greatly  improved  and  extended  the  city  by  the  construction  of 
new  quarters  (Ismailiyeh  and  Tewfikiyeh,  p.  454),  though  to  the  prejudice 
of  its  mediaeval  architecture;  and  under  the  present  Khedive  Abbas  II. 
Hilmi  (b.  1874)  Cairo  has  expanded  as  far  as  the  islands  in  the  Nile.  Since 
the  defeat  of  the  national  party  under  Ardbi  Bey  (p.  433)  in  1882  the 
country  in  general  and  Cairo  in  particular  have  prospered  greatly.  The 
paramount  British  control  of  the  administration  is  more  noticeable  at 
Cairo  than  at  Alexandria  or  on  the  Suez  Canal. 

A  convenient  short  history  of  Cairo  is  '  The  Story  of  Cairo',  by  Stanley 
Lane-Poole,  in  the  'Medieval  Towns  Series'  (2nd  ed.,  London,  1906). 
Comp.  also  'Cairo  and  its  Environs',  by  A.  0.  Lamploiigh  and  R.  Francis 
(London,  1909,  illus. ;  20s.)  and  'The  City  of  the  Caliphs',  by  E.  A.  Reynolds- 
Ball  (Boston  and  London,  1897). 

History  op  Art.  The  Arabian  architecture  of  Egypt  is  founded 
partly  on  antique,  on  Byzantine,  and  on  Coptic  models  which  the  con- 
querors of  the  country  found  ready  to  their  hand,  and  partly  on  Persian 
types,  developed  under  the  Sassanides  and  adopted  by  the  Arabs  with 
the  aid  of  native  builders.  The  chief  Arabian  edifices  at  Cairo  are  the 
mosques,  the  fountains,  and  the  tombs.  The  period  of  their  construction 
extends  from  the  time  of  the  Tulunides  (9th  cent.)  down  to  the  conquest 
of  Egypt  by  the  Turks  (1517).  Of  the  earlier  buildings,  known  to  us 
only  from  the  fantastic  descriptions  of  Arabian  authors,  hardly  a  trace 
is  left.  The  later  edifices,  partly  of  Arabian-Turkish  type  with  Egyptian- 
Arabian  ornamentation,  seldom  show  much  artistic  merit. 

The  oldest  mosques  (gdmia,  or  chief  mosque;  mesgid,  smaller  mosque 
or  chapel),  such  as  the  Amru  Mosque  (p.  460)  and  that  of  Ibn  Tulun 
(p.  451),  are  simple  in  plan.  A  quadrangle  (sahn),  answering  to  the  atrium 
of  the  Byzantine  basilica,  is  flanked  with  four  flat-roofed  colonnades 
(liwdn),  which  on  three  sides  are  single  or  double,  while  on  the  fourth 
side,  in  the  direction  of  Mecca,  the  chief  liwan  (sanctuarium)  is  composed 


Ezbekiyeh.  CAIRO.  It.  Route.      445 

of  several  aisles  or  arcades.  The  cruciform  ntedreseh  (school-mosque), 
of  Persian  origin,  was  first  introduced  by  Saladin  the  Aiyubide.  The 
liw&na  were  now  roofed  with  massive  barrel-vaulting,  and  in  their  four 
corners  were  introduced  schools  or  lecture-rooms  for  the  four  orthodox 
Beets  of  Islam  (Hanetites,  Shatiites.  Malekites,  and  Hambalites).  To  the 
second  Mameluke  dynasty  (1382-1517)  Cairo  owes  its  most  beautiful  spec- 
imens of  Arabian  architecture.  In  the  smaller  mosques  the  lateral 
liw&na  were  shortened,  the  court  reduced  in  size,  roofed  in,  and  lighted 
from  above,  and  the  transepts  were  again  roofed  with  flat  timber  ceilings. 
In  the  Turkish  period,  as  in  the  case  of  the  mosque  of  Mohammed  Ali 
(p.  45-1),  the  four  liwans  were  often  replaced  by  a  single  vaulted  hall, 
preceded  by  a  forecourt. 

The  minarets,  always  in  three  stories,  are  of  the  Pharos  or  lighthouse 
type  (p.  134;  Arabic  manara,  light). 

Most  of  the  mosques  built  since  the  middle  of  the  14th  cent,  have 
■  Bi  bii  attached.  This  is  a  public  street-fountain,  roofed  over,  with  a 
chamber  above  it  (kuttdb)  used  as  an  elementary  school. 

The  tombs  of  sultans  and  emirs  are  always  connected  with  the  mosques. 
The  tombs  of  saints  or  sheikhs,  on  the  other  hand,  as  everywhere  in  the 
East,  are  independent  buildings,  domed  like  the  burial-chapels  in  the 
mosques.  The  ordinary  tombs  of  the  Moslems  are  underground  chambers; 
above  the  vault  usually  stands  a  sarcophagus  or  cenotaph  (tarkibeh). 
Wi';ilthy  families  enclosed  their  tombs  with  halls  for  funeral  festivals, 
rooms  for  the  mourners,  a  dwelling  for  the  custodian,  etc.,  collectively 
called  a  hush. 

Of  the  old  palaces  and  caravanserais  a  few  ruins  only  remain.  The 
latter  (okellas;  Arabic  icakkaieh)  served  also  as  warehouses  (khan).  Of 
the  mediaeval  dwelling-house  the  so-called  Bookbinder's  House  (p.  449)  is 
a  good  example. 

Sculpture  and  painting  existed  as  independent  arts  under  the  Tulu- 
nides  and  Fatimites,  being  favoured  by  the  Persians  and  the  sect  of 
the  Shiites,  but  in  the  later  Egyptian-Arabian  art  they  survived  only  in 
the  ornamentation  of  walls.  The  main  features  of  this  surface  decoration 
consisted  in  curiously  interlaced  geometrical  figures  (entrelacs)  and  con- 
ventional foliage  (arabesques).  Both  mosques  and  private  houses  often 
have  charming  kamariyehs,  or  windows  of  perforated  slabs  of  plaster, 
inlaid  with  coloured  glass.  The  facades  of  the  older  houses  are  adorned 
also  with  picturesque  oriel-windows  and  with  mnshrebiyehs,  or  balcony- 
gratings  or  lattice-work  of  beech-wood  rods. 


a.  Northern  Quarters. 

The  main  thoroughfare  here  is  the  Shakia  Clot  Bey  (PI.  B,  C,  2 ; 
tramway  No.  7,  p.  440),  leading  from  the  Railway  Stations  and 
the  Limiln  Bridge  (PI.  B,  1)  to  the  Midan  el-Khaznedar  (PI.  C,  3), 
adjoining  which,  between  the  old  Arabian  Cairo  and  the  new  town 
(p.  454),  is  the  — 

Ezbekiyeh  Garden,  the  chief  rally ing-point  of  strangers. 
The  name  is  derived  from  the  Ezbek  mosque  which  once  stood  here. 
built  in  1495  in  honour  of  a  general  of  the  sultan  Kait  Bey  (p.  458). 
The  grounds  (adm.  1/s  pias.),  20  acres  in  area,  laid  out  by  Barillet 
in  1870,  contain  many  rare  trees  and  plants.  The  open  spaces  are 
planted  with  Lippia  nudiflora  instead  of  grass,  which  does  not 
thrive  in  this  dry  climate.  Among  the  attractions  are  a  cafe,  a 
restaurant,  a  summer  theatre,  and  evening  concerts  (see  p.  442). 

29* 


446     Route  7/.  CAIRO.  The  3TvsH. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Ezbekiyeh  Garden  rises  the  Opera  House 
(p.  442),  between  which  and  the  Hotel  Continental  is  the  Place  dk 
l'Opera  (Midan  et-Teatro;  PI.  B,  C,  3),  with  the  monument  of  the 
famous  general  Ibrdhlm  Pasha  (d.  1848).  From  this  point  the 
Sharia  Abdin  leads  to  the  S.  to  the  spacious  Mid&n  Abdin,  where 
the  Khedivial  Palace  (PI.  C,  4,  5)  rises  on  the  left. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Place  de  l'Opera,  between  the  Ezbekiyeh  and  the 
Opera  House,  the  Sharia  et-Teatro  leads  to  the  small  Midan  Ezbek, 
in  which  are  the  Tribunaux  Mixtes  (PI.  C,  3;  international  law- 
courts).  A  parallel  street,  Sharia  Tahir,  in  which  is  the  General 
Post  Office  (PI.  C,  3;  p.  441),  on  the  right,  leads  to  the  Atabet 
el-Khadra,  where  the  principal  tramways  intersect  (p.  440). 

On  the  E.  side  of  this  square  begins  the  *Muski,  or  Mouski 
(PI.  C,  D,  3),  which,  with  its  continuations  the  Sikket  el-Gedideh 
and  Sharia  esh-Sharawani  (PL  E,  F,  3),  is  1  M.  long,  and  forms 
the  chief  artery  of  the  Oriental  quarters,  intersecting  the  whole  of 
the  old  town.  Externally  these  streets  have  lost  their  mediaeval 
character,  the  shops  appearing  quite  European,  but  the  motley 
throng  that  surges  through  them  at  all  hours  is  still  quite  Oriental. 

At  the  end  of  the  Muski,  near  the  Suk  el-Kanto  (PL  D,  3),  we 
enter  the  old  Fatimite  City  (Masr  el-Kdhira,  p.  443),  to  whose 
second  wall,  dating  from  1074,  belonged  the  still  existing  N.  gate- 
ways Bdb  el-Futilh  and  Bdb  en-Nasr  (PL  E,  2;  p.  449),  and  the 
S.  gateway  Bdb  Zuweileh  (PL  E,  4;  p.  450).  The  old  town  was 
bounded  on  the  W.  by  the  old  town-condnit  El-Khalig,  now  Sharia 
Khalig  el-Masri  (tramways  Xos.  2  &  9,  p.  440). 

The  Gdmia  el-Ashraf  (PL  E,  3),  a  small  mosque  built  by  Sul- 
tan Bars  Bey  (1422-38),  at  the  point  where  the  Sikket  el-Gedideh 
is  crossed  by  the  old  and  important  line  of  streets  (1  M.  long)  be- 
tween Bab  el-Futuh  and  Bab  Zuweileh,  lies  in  the  heart  of  the 
Market  Quarter,  which,  though  usually  overcrowded,  especially 
in  the  early  morning,  should  by  all  means  be  visited. 

Immediately  to  the  left  of  the  Sharia  el-Khordagiyeh  (PL  E,  3 ; 
p.  448),  which  leads  from  the  mosque  to  the  N.,  is  the  Stile  es-Sdigh 
(pi.  siyagh),  the  bazaar  of  the  goldsmiths  and  silversmiths,  who 
keep  their  wares  under  glass  in  their  cramped  little  shops,  selling 
them  by  weight  (but  often  spurious). 

On  the  opposite  (E.)  side  of  the  same  street  is  the  Khdn  el- 
Klialili  (PL  E,  3),  founded  in  1400  on  the  site  of  the  Fatimite 
tombs,  and  once  the  centre  of  business.  Vendors  of  silks  and  car- 
pets, of  trinkets  and  other  wares  are  still  located  here.  Buyers 
who  are  judges  of  carpets  will  select  those  of  Bagdad  or  Brussa, 
but  exorbitant  prices  are  generally  asked.  The  silk-stuffs  of  Lyons 
and  Crefeld  often  do  duty  for  those  of  Damascus.  The  main  street 
of  the  khan,  Sikket  el-Badistan,  contains  two  pretty  Arabian  gates. 

To  the  S.  of  the  mosque  of  El-Ashraf  runs  the  Sharia  el-Ashra- 


Gdmia  el-Ashar.  CAIRO.  71.  Route.     447 

flvch  (PI.  E,  3),  whence  the  Sharia  el-Hamzawi  es-Seghir  diverges 
to  the  right.  This  street,  continued  by  the  Sharia  el-Hamzawi  el- 
Kebir  (PI.  D,  3),  forms  the  Suk  el-Hamz&wl,  the  market  of  the 
Christian  traders  (Syrians  and  Copts).  Here,  immediately  to  the 
left,  is  the  Sharia  et-Tarbiyeh  (PI.  E,  3),  with  the  Suk  el-Attdrln, 
or  spice-market  (comp.  p.  335). 

Opposite  the  entrance  to  the  Hamzawi  is  the  Sharia  es-Sana- 
dikiyeh  (PI.  E,  3),  also  called  Suk  es-Suddn,  for  the  produce  of  the 
Sudan  (india-rubber,  dum-palm  nuts,  etc.).  —  The  last  side-street 
on  the  left,  the  Sharia  el-Halwagi  (PI.  E,  3 ;  the  direct  way  to  the 
university  from  Sharia  esh-Sharawani,  p.  446),  is  the  seat  of  the 
Booksellers  (over  20  shops). 

In  the  Sharia  el-Azhar,  behind  the  small  Mosque  of  Moham- 
med Bey  Abu  Dahab  (1770),  is  the  chief  entrance  of  the  — 

*Ganiia  el-Azhar  (PI.  E,  3,  4;  adm.,  see  p.  442;  photo- 
graphing prohibited),  'the  flourishing',  the  finest  building  of  the 
Fatimite  period.  It  was  completed  by  Gohar  (p.  443)  in  973,  and 
converted  into  a  university  by  caliph  El-Aziz  in  988,  but  after  the 
earthquake  of  1302  was  almost  entirely  rebuilt  by  Emir  Salar. 
The  venerable  edifice,  whose  rectangular  plan  is  still  distinctly 
traceable,  was  again  materially  altered  by  the  wealthy  Abd  er- 
Rahman  Kikhya  in  1759.  The  university  is  still  considered  the 
most  important  in  the  territories  of  Islam.  In  1909  there  were 
10,000  students  (mugdwirin)  and  319  teachers  (sheikhs).  The 
rector  is  called  the  Sheikh  el-Azhar. 

Adjoining  the  N.W.  facade,  erected  by  Abbas  II.  (p.  444)  in  the  neo- 
Arabian  style,  is  the  Bab  el-Museiyinin  ('barber's  gate'),  built  in  the 
time  of  Abd  er-Rahman,  now  the  chief  entrance,  where  a  guide  is  assigned 
to  the  visitor.  Adjacent  to  the  gateway,  on  the  right,  is  the  Mesgirf 
Taibarsiyeh,  restored  by  Abd  er-Rahinan,  containing  a  superb  mihrab  or 
prayer-recess  of  1309,  richly  adorned  with  mosaics.  On  the  left  is  the 
Zawiyet  el-Ibtighawiyeh,  also  of  the  14th  cent.,  now  the  library. 

The  handsome  inner  portal,  built  along  with  the  contiguous  minaret 
by  Kal't  Bey  (p.  458),  leads  into  the  sahn  (p.  444),  or  chief  quadrangle, 
flanked  with  five  minarets,  and  always  enlivened  by  knots  01  students, 
mostly  grouped  in  their  various  nationalities.  The  colonnades,  restored  in 
the  time  of  Tewfik  (p.  444),  have  the  Persian  keel-arches,  in  special  favour 
with  the  Shiites,  the  walls  above  which  are  tastefully  decorated  with 
medallions  and  niches  and  crowned  with  pinnacles.  The  lateral  Iiwans 
011  the  N.E.  and  8.W.  sides  of  the  quadrangle  are  allotted  to  students  of 
different  countries  and  provinces  as  sleeping-apartments  and  studies  (riwak). 
The  court  of  aldutions  (p.  63),  behind  the  N.E.  liwan,  dates  from  the 
time  of  Kal't  Bey. 

The  Chief  Liwdn,  or  sanctuary,  on  the  S.E.  side  of  the  quadrangle, 
with  its  140  antique  and  Byzantine  marble  columns,  forms  the  great  lec- 
ture-room. No  lectures  are  given  on  Thursdays  or  during  the  fasting- 
month  of  Ramadan.  The  low  front  half  of  this  great  hall,  with  its  four 
much  restored  rows  of  arcades,  belongs  to  the  original  building.  The 
dome  of  the  vestibule,  the  broad  transept  borne  by  two  rows  of  columns, 
and  the  dome  of  the  old  mihrab,  all  point  to  the  Sidi  Okba  mosque  of 
Kairwan  (p.  374)  as  their  prototype.  The  raised  inner  half  of  the  sanc- 
tuary, with  its  two  prayer-niches,  was  added  by  Abd  er-Rahni&n. 


448     Route  It.  CAIRO.  Muristan  Ealdun. 

The  dilapidated  Okella  of  Kdit  Bey  (1496),  behind  the  S.  angle 
of  the  university,  with  its  sebil  (p.  445),  has  a  charming  facade. 

"We  next  visit  the  N.  half  of  the  old  city  of  the  Fatimites.  In 
the  Sharia  el-Gohergiyeh  (PI.  E,  3),  in  line  with  Sharia  el-Khor- 
dagiyeh  (p.  446),  we  are  struck  with  the  fagades  (on  the  left)  of  the 
Muristan  Kalaun,  the  Medreseh  Mohammed  en-Nasir,  and  the  Barkfi- 
kiyeh,  on  the  site  of  the  Fatimite  palaces. 

The  Muristan  Kalaun  (PI.  E,  3),  a  great  hospital  begun  by 
the  Mameluke  sultan  El-Mansur  Kalaun  (1279-90)  in  1285,  shows 
the  influence  of  the  European  architectural  style  which  the  Crusa- 
ders had  introduced  into  Syria.  The  massive  portal,  flanked  with 
a  minaret  192  ft.  high,  leads  into  a  long  corridor.  On  the  left  is  a 
small  Mosque,  partly  restored.  On  the  right  is  the  *Tomb  of  Ka- 
Idiln,  completed  in  1293  by  his  son  Mohammed  en-Nasir  (1293- 
1340),  one  of  the  most  beautiful  Arabian  buildings  in  Cairo.  The 
square  hall  has  a  rich  timber  ceiling;  the  mosaics  of  the  walls  and 
central  pillars  are  composed  of  marble  and  mother-of-pearl,  and  the 
superb  prayer-niche  is  enriched  with  porphyry  columns  and  dwarf 
arcades.  The  wards  for  the  sick  and  lecture-rooms,  grouped  round 
the  large  quadrangle,  now  partly  used  as  store-rooms  and  workshops, 
are  sadly  disfigured. 

The  adjoining  *  Medreseh  Mohammed  en-Ndsir  (PL  E,  3),  dating 
from  1303,  also  is  in  a  ruinous  condition.  It  is  entered  by  a  Gothic 
church-portal  brought  from  Acre  in  Syria.  The  fine  minaret,  the 
sanctuary  (on  the  left),  and  the  tomb  of  the  founder  (on  the  right) 
show  remains  of  tasteful  stucco  decoration  recalling  the  Alhambra 
(p.  79). 

The  Barkiikiyeh  (PI.  E,  3),  the  medreseh  of  the  Mameluke  sultan 
Barkfik  (1382-99),  with  its  octagonal  minaret,  has  suffered  from  the 
gaudy  modern  painting  of  the  sanctuary  and  of  the  mausoleum,  in 
which  reposes  a  daugher  of  Barkuk.  The  dikkeh  for  the  prayer- 
reciter  (p.  180)  is  modern. 

Farther  to  the  N.  in  the  same  line  of  streets  is  the  lively  Sharia 
en-Nahhasin,  in  which  is  the  market  of  the  coppersmiths.  On  the 
right  is  the  facade  of  the  Ddr  Beshtdk  Palace  (PI.  E,  3),  erected  by 
Emir  Beshtak  in  1330,  but  now  entirely  altered.  At  the  next  bifur- 
cation we  come  to  the  *SebilAbd  er-Rahmdn  (p.  447),  one  of  the 
finest  structures  of  the  kind.  Upstairs  the  hall  of  an  elementary  school 
affords  from  its  windows  a  capital  view  of  the  busy  Nahhasin  Street. 

Farther  on  the  main  street  is  called  Sharia  el-Margush  el- 
Barrani.  Immediately  to  the  right  is  the  Gdmia  el-Ahmar  (PI.  E, 
2;  'red  mosque'),  built  in  1125  by  the  grand  vizier  of  the  Fatimite 
Amr  ben  Mustali.  The  fine  fagade,  recently  brought  to  light  in 
part,  with  its  high  pointed  niches  in  square  framework  alternating 
with  smaller  niches  in  two  stories,  shows  the  oldest  stalactite  vault- 
ing in  Cairo,  and  is  therefore  historically  interesting. 


Bookbinder's  House.  CAIRO.  71.  Route.     449 

Near  the  end  of  the  same  thoroughfare,  here  called  Sharia  Bab 
el-Futuh,  we  come  to  the  entrance,  on  the  right,  of  the  ruinous 
(ittiiiia  el-Hdkim  (PI.  E,  2),  begun,  outside  the  oldest  town-wall, 
by  El-Aziz  (p.  447)  in  990,  on  the  model  of  the  mosque  of  Ibn  Tulfin 
(p.  451),  and  completed  by  his  son  El-Hakim  in  1012.  The  two 
mii<:irets,  with  their  heavy  square  setting,  rise  from  the  middle  of 
the  second  town-wall  (p.  446),  which  is  here  well  preserved.  Their 
superstructures,  crowned  with  domes  and  resembling  an  Arabian 
censer  (mabkhdra),  belong  to  the  period  when  the  mosque  was  re- 
stored after  the  earthquake  of  1302. 

The  two  ancient  gate-towers,  the  Bdb  el-Futuh  (PI.  E,  2;  'gate 
of  the  conquests')  at  the  end  of  the  street  and  the  neighbouring  Bdb 
en  Nasr  ('gate  of  victory';  reached  by  the  Sharia  el-Kassasineh), 
which  was  pierced  with  loopholes  in  the  time  of  Bonaparte,  recall 
the  late-Roman  and  Byzantine  gateway  castles.  The  town-wall 
(adm.  2  pias.)  affords  an  interesting  survey  of  the  whole  group  of 
buildings. 

We  now  return  to  the  Gamia  el-Ashraf  (p.  446)  to  complete  our 
visit  to  the  S.  part  of  the  old  town  of  the  Fatimites.  At  the  begin- 
ning of  the  Sharia  el-Ghuriyeh  (PI.  E,  4),  the  continuation  of  the 
Sharia  el-Ashrafiyeh  (p.  446),  rises  the  double  monument  of  the 
Mameluke  sultan  Kansuh  el-GMri  (1501-16),  with  its  fine  facades: 
on  the  right  is  the  Medreseh  el-Ghilri  (PI.  E,  3,  4),  whose  minaret, 
213  ft.  high,  is  incongruously  crowned  with  five  modern  dwarfed 
domes;  on  the  left  is  the  Mausoleum,  with  its  charming  sebil.  The 
sultan,  who  fell  in  Syria,  was  not,  however,  buried  here. — A  few 
paces  to  the  E.,  in  the  Sharia  et-Tableta  which  leads  to  the  Azhar 
mosque  (p.  447),  is  the  Okella  of  El-GMri  (PI.  E,  3,  4),  now 
entirely  disfigured. 

In  line  with  the  Sharia  el-Ghuriyeh,  farther  to  the  S.,  is  the  Sharia 
el-Akkadin  (PL  E,  4).  A  little  to  the  E.  of  it,  in  the  side-street 
Hosh  Kadam  (No.  12),  is  the  so-called  ^Bookbinder's  House 
(Beit  Gamdl  ed-Din;¥\.  E,  4),  built  in  1637  by  the  president  of 
the  merchants'  guild,  an  admirable  example  of  an  Arabian  dwell- 
ing-house (fee  2  pias.). 

A  crooked  passage  (dirkeh)  leads  into  the  court  of  the  Salamlik,  the 
apartments  of  the  owner,  with  two  well-preserved  facades.  In  the  S.W. 
angle  are  stairs  ascending  to  the  Makad  or  reception-room,  an  open  colonnade 
with  two  arches.  Adjoining  it  is  an  oriel-window  closed  with  mashrebiyehs 
(p.  445),  from  which  the  women  could  overlook  the  court.  Farther  on  we 
come  to  the  handsome  Kaa,  the  banqueting-room  of  the  harem,  adorned 
with  super!)  mosaics.  In  the  centre  of  it  is  a  lower  chamber  (durk&a) 
roofed  with  a  wooden  dome.  The  flat  timber  ceilings  of  the  two  liwans, 
or  lateral  rooms,  are  very  fine. 

Still  farther  to  the  S.,  in  the  same  line,  runs  the  Sukkariyeh 
(Pi.  E,  4),  the  market  for  sugar,  dried  fruit  (nuklj,  fish,  candles, 
etc.  —  On  the  ritrht  rises  the  — 


450     Route  7i.  CAIRO.  A>'ab  Museum. 

*Gamia  el-Muaiyad  (PI.  D,  E,  4),  begun  by  the  Mameluke 
sultan  Sheikh  el-Mahmudi  Muaiyad  (1412-21),  and  completed  a  year 
after  his  death.  In  plan  it  resembles  the  convent-mosque  of  Barkuk 
(p.  458).  The  sumptuous  portal,  with  its  striped  marble  enrichment 
and  stalactite  or  honeycomb  half-domes,  is  well  preserved.  The 
*Bronze  Gate,  the  finest  in  Cairo,  was  brought  from  the  mosque  of 
Hasan  (p.  452).  The  main  court  and  the  lateral  liwans,  with  their 
heavy  modern  outer  walls,  now  form  shady  grounds.  The  sanctuary, 
restored  in  1880,  is  a  splendid  hall  of  three  arcades  with  lofty  stilted 
arches.  The  decoration  of  the  back-wall  and  the  coloured  wooden 
ceiling  are  charming.  To  the  left  of  the  sanctuary  is  the  mausoleum 
of  the  sultan,  and  to  the  right  that  of  his  family.  The  two  minarets, 
167  ft.  high,  rise  from  the  platform  of  the  Bdb  Zuweileh  (PL  E,  4; 
p.  446),  or  Bdb  el-Mitwelli,  the  S.  gate  of  the  Fatimite  city. 

From  tbe  Bab  Zuweileh  the  Sharia  Taht  er-Rebaa  leads  to  the  W.  to 
the  Place  Bab  el-Khalk  (PI.  D,  4;  see  below);  to  the  S.  run  the  Kasabet 
Radowan,  a  Shoemakers'  Market,  where  the  favourite  red  slippers  (p.  97) 
are  sold,  and  the  Sharia  el-Khiyamiyeh,  the  bazaar  for  gaily  coloured 
Tent-Covers,  leading  to  the  Sharia  Mohammed  Ali  (see  below). 

To  the  E.  of  the  Bab  Zuweileh  runs  a  line  of  streets,  bending  round  to 
the  S.,  to  the  Citadel  (p.  453).  Nearly  opposite  the  gate,  at  the  corner 
of  Kasabet  Radowan  and  Derb  el-Ahmar,  is  the  sjnall  Mosque  of  Sdtih 
Teldyeh  (PI.  E,  4),  dating  from  the  reign  of  El-Adid,  the  last  of  the 
Fatimites  (1160).  The  sanctuary  contains  some  beautiful  stucco  ornament- 
ation in  the  Syrian-Arabian  style.— In  the  Derb  el-Ahmar,  farther  on, 
to  the  left,  rises  the  small  *Mosque  of  Emir  Kijmas  (PI.  E,  4),  built 
in  1481  by  a  master-of-the-horse  of  Kait  Bey  (p.  458).  The  interior  is  a 
perfect  gem  of  its  kind. 

Farther  on  this  line  of  streets  is  called  Sharia  et-Tabbrineh.  On  the 
right  rises  the  *Mosque  el-Merdani  (PI.  E,  5),  one  of  the  largest  in 
Cairo.  It  was  built  by  the  cup-bearer  of  sultan  Mohammed  en-Nasir  (p.  448) 
in  1338-40  and  after  having  almost  fallen  to  ruin  was  recently  restored. 
The  sanctuary  is  still  separated  from  the  court  by  its  old  maksura,  ot 
wooden  screen.  The  prayer-recess  and  its  sides  are  lavishly  enriched 
with  costly  mosaics.  The  dome  in  front  of  the  prayer-niche,  partly  restored 
with  cement,  rests  on  ancient  Egyptian  granite  columns. 

b.  The  Soutli-Eastern  Quarters. 

Starting  from  the  Place  Atabet  el-Khadra  (p.  446)  the  featureless 
Sharia  Mohammed  Ali  (PI.  C-E,  3-6),  1860  yds.  long,  leads  to  the 
Citadel  (tramway  No.  6,  p.  440).  After  8  min.  it  crosses  the  former 
town-conduit  El-Khalig  (p.  446).  On  the  left  is  the  Place  Bab 
el-Khalk,  with  the  Gouvernorat  (government-house;  PI.  D,  4; 
containing  the  Police  Office,  p.  442),  and  the  superb  new  build- 
ings of  the  Arab  Museum  and  the  Khedivial  Library  (1902). 

The  *Arab  Museum,  founded  by  Franz  Pasha,  a  learned 
German  architect,  on  the  groundfloor  of  the  building,  contains  a 
large  and  valuable  collection  of  objects  of  art,  mostly  from  old 
mosques  and  houses  in  Cairo.  Adm.,  see  p.  442;  entrance  on  the  E. 
side.   Director,  M.  Herz  Bey. 

In  the  Vestibule  is  shown  a  chronological  list  of  the  Mohammedan 


Gdmia  Ibn  Tulvn.  CAIRO.  71.  Route     451 

dynasties  of  Egypt.  —  Room  I.  Tombstones.  —  Room  II.  Sculptures  in 
stone.  —  Room  III.     Stone  sculptures,  casts,  mosaics. 

Rooms  IV-VIII.  Wood-carving,  including  pulpits  (mimbar),  reading- 
desks  for  the  Koran  and  tables  (kursi),  movable  prayer-niches  and  Koran- 
boxes  from  mosques,  mashrebiyehs  (p.  415). 

Rooms  IX  &  X.  Metal- work.  Fine  bronze  doors  from  the  mosque 
of  Salih  Tel.iyeh  (p.  450)  and  elsewhere;  a  Koran-case  with  brass  cover 
ami  silver  enrichment,  candle-sticks,  lustres  in  metal,  bronze  candelabra 
(tannur).  —  Rooms  XI  &  XII.  Fayence,  including  tiles  of  European  make, 
a  favourite  wall-decoration  in  Arabian  houses  of  the  18-19th  centuries. 

Room  XIII.  Wall-incrustations  in  stucco;  Arabian  room  from  Rosetta. 
—  Room  XIV.  Specimens  of  textiles ;  two  Koran-cases  covered  with  leather 
from  the  Hasan  mosque  (p.  452).  —  Rooms  XV  &  XVI.  Enamelled  *Mosque 
Lamps,  the  richest  collection  of  the  kind,  mostly  from  the  Hasan  mosque. 

The  first  floor  of  the  building  contains  the  Khedivial  Library 
(Kutubkhdneh,  entered  from  the  Sharia  Mohammed  Ali),  founded  in 
1870  and  arranged  by  German  savants.  It  consists  of  68,000  vols, 
(about  32,000  being  Oriental),  including  2700  Korans.  The  illum- 
inated Persian  MSS.  are  extremely  valuable.  The  Exhibition  Eoom 
(adm.,  see  p.  442)  contains  also  a  fine  collection  of  the  coins  of  the 
Moslem  rulers  of  Egypt. 

We  now  follow,  to  the  S.W.,  the  long  Sharia  Khal!g  el-Masri 
(PI.  D,  C,  4-6;  tramways  Nos.  2  &  9,  p.  440)  to  a  small  square  with 
the  Gdmia  es-Seiyidth  Zcinab  (PI.  C,  6,  7),  and  then  turn  to  the 
S.E.  into  the  Sharia  el-Maras1n  (PI.  C,  7),  near  the  end  of  which 
the  Derb  Tanaifa  leads  to  the  right  to  the  — 

*Medreseh  Kait  Bey  (PI.  C,  7),  in  the  Kalat  el-Kabsh 
quarter  of  the  city.  Built  in  1475,  shortly  after  the  sultan's  burial- 
mosque  (p.  458),  and  recently  restored  by  Herz  Bey,  it  offers  a  good 
example  of  the  architecture  of  the  second  Mameluke  dynasty  (see 
p.  445).  The  minaret  is  one  of  the  most  tasteful  in  Cairo.  In  the 
richly  decorated  interior  we  specially  note  the  fine  ornaments  on 
the  arches  of  the  court-facades,  the  stalactites  of  the  window-niches, 
the  mosaic  pavement,  and  the  pulpit.    The  dome  is  modern. 

The  Sharia  er-Rahaba  and  the  winding  Sharia  Kalat  el-Kabsh 
lead  to  the  E.  in  a  few  minutes  to  the  picturesque  Sharia  ez-Ziyadeh 
(PI.  D,  7),  on  the  S.W.  side  of  the  — 

*Gamia  Ibn  Tulun  (PI.  D,  7),  the  oldest  in  Cairo  next  to 
the  Amru  mosque  (p.  460).  It  stands  near  the  N.  border  of  what 
was  once  the  Katai  quarter,  on  the  rocky  Gcbel  Yeshkur  (33  ft.). 
It  was  erected  by  Ahmed  ibn  Tulun  (p.  443)  on  Mesopotamian 
models  in  876-9,  immediately  after  the  last  extension  of  the 
Kairwan  mosque  (p.  374),  and  was  the  largest  of  that  period  in  all 
the  lands  of  Islam.  The  total  area  of  its  precincts  is  30,720  sq.  yds., 
while  the  mosque  itself,  without  the  courts,  forms  a  huge  square  of 
150  by  132  yds.  The  external  facades,  which  are  almost  un- 
derrated, are  relieved  by  pointed  windows  and  niches  and  with 
shell-shaped  half-domes  and  are  crowned  with  pinnacles.  We  first 
pass  through  the  E.  forecourt  to  the  sanctuary. 


452     Route  11.  CAIRO.  Gdmia  Sultdn  Hasan. 

The  chief  quadrangle,  about  99  yds.  square,  is  enclosed  by 
double  arcades  on  three  sides,  while  the  sanctuary  has  four  arcades 
(originally  five,  the  fifth  having  collapsed  in  1875).  The  facades  of 
the  court  are  relieved  by  pointed  windows  and  rosettes  in  the  spand- 
rels above  the  brick  pillars;  still  higher  runs  a  frieze  of  rosettes, 
and  the  whole  is  crowned  with  pinnacles.  In  the  interior  the  orna- 
mentation framing  the  arcades  and  the  foliage  frieze  on  the  wall- 
spaces  are  carved  in  stucco,  exhibiting  as  yet  none  of  the  intricate 
forms  of  the  Byzantine-Arabian  style.  The  old  prayer-recess  with 
its  fine  Byzantine  capitals  and  fragments  of  Byzantine  glass-mosaics 
is  noteworthy.  The  dikkeh  (p.  448)  also  dates  from  the  earliest 
period.  Above  the  dikkeh  are  remains  of  the  original  timber  ceiling. 

A  prayer-recess  in  the  fourth  series  of  arcades  dates  from  1094. 
The  pulpit,  now  bereft  of  its  sumptuous  incrustation,  the  wooden 
dome  in  front  of  the  mihrab,  the  plaster  windows  in  the  mihrab 
wall,  and  also  the  dome  in  the  court  are  all  additions  by  the  Mame- 
luke sultan  Melek  el-Mansur  Lagin  (1296-1308). 

The  peculiar  minaret  in  the  great  quadrangle,  of  which  the  square 
basement  only  was  originally  built  of  stone,  offers  a  splendid  *View  of 
the  vast  city.  We  look  down  the  Nile,  to  the  N.,  to  the  Delta,  and  to 
the  W.  and  S.W.  we  see  the  Pyramids. 

The  small  Medreseh  Serghatmash  (PI.  D,  7)  in  Sharia  el-Khe- 
deiri,  on  the  N.  side  of  Ibn  Tulun's  mosque,  built  by  a  mameluke 
of  sultan  Hasan  in  the  style  of  Hasan's  mosque  (see  below)  in  1357, 
is  interesting  on  account  of  its  original  unaltered  dome. 

We  now  turn  to  the  E.,  past  the  effective  marble  Sebil  of  the 
Mother  of  Abbds  I.  (1849-54),  and  through  the  Sharia  es-Salibeh 
(PI.  D,  6)  and  the  Sharia  Shekhun  (PI.  D,  E,  6),  to  the  Place  Ru- 
meileh  (PL  E,  6;  tramway  No.  6,  p.  440),  the  starting-place  of  the 
Mecca  caravans. 

To  the  N.  of  this  square,  and  at  the  end  of  the  Sharia  Moham- 
med Ali  (p.  450),  rise  the  modern  Gdmia  Rifaiyeh  (PL  E,  6), 
of  the  reign  of  the  khedive  Ismail  (p.  444),  and  the  famous  — 

**Gamia  Sultan  Hasan  (PL  E,  6),  the  grandest  medreseh 
in  Egypt,  erected  for  the  Mameluke  Hasan  en-Nasir  (1347-61) 
probably  by  a  Syrian  architect.  It  rises  on  a  shelving  rock  opposite 
the  Citadel  (p.  453).  The  cruciform  medreseh  has  been  skilfully 
adapted  to  the  precincts,  an  irregular  pentagon,  about  9470  sq.  yds. 
in  area. 

The  chief  *Portal,  85  ft.  high,  whose  side-pillars  were  origin- 
ally to  have  borne  two  minarets,  recall  the  Seljuk  buildings  of 
Konia.  The  facades  terminate  in  a  projecting  stalactite  cornice, 
crowned  with  modern  pinnacles,  and  the  walls  are  relieved  by  blind 
niches  with  round-arched  windows  in  pairs.  Over  the  detached 
mausoleum,  which  projects  from  the  S.E.  facade,  rises  a  dome 
181  ft.  high,  restored  in  1616  in  the  Arabian-Turkish  style,  but 
said  to  have  been  originally  egg-shaped.    The  minaret  of  267  ft., 


Citadel.  CAIRO.  71.  Route.     453 

at  the  S.  angle  of  the  medreseh,  is  the  loftiest  in  Cairo,  and  after 
that  of  the  Kutubia  at  Marakesh  the  highest  in  N.  Africa. 

Interior  (undergoing  restoration).  The  old  court  of  ablutions  on  the 
N.W.  side  of  the  building  is  again  in  use.  The  chief  portal  of  the  med- 
reseh leads  into  a  vestibule  with  a  stalactite  dome.  We  then  pass  through 
a  second  vestibule  and  a  corridor  to  the  maiu  quadrangle,  38V-2  by  35  yds., 
containing  the  ruinous  meidd,  or  basin  for  ablutions,  and  a  Turkish  foun- 
tain (hanefiyeh),  both  disused.  The  four  liwans,  with  their  massive 
barrel-vaulting,  are  entered  from  the  court  by  lofty  marble  portals,  and 
are  in  this  exceptional  case  all  used  as  halls  of  prayer.  The  four  small 
inedresehs  in  the  angles  of  the  outer  precincts,  each  with  its  court  and 
liwan,  served  as  lecture-rooms  and  dwellings. 

The  sanctuary,  76  ft.  in  height,  is  adorned  with  a  *Frieze  bearing 
an  inscription  in  Curie  (or  old  Arabic)  characters,  carved  in  stucco  on  a 
beautiful  groundwork  of  arabesques.  The  wall  of  the  niihrab  is  richly 
decorated  with  marble.  Of  the  once  sumptuous  furnishings  the  mimbar 
(pulpit),  the  dikkeh  (reading-stand),  and  the  wire-chains  of  the  countless 
lamps  (see  p.  451)  and  candelabra  are  now  the  sole  relics. 

To  the  right  of  the  pulpit  a  bronze  door,  inlaid  with  gold  and  silver, 
leads  into  the  sultan's  *Mausoleum,  a  domed  chamber  of  23  yds.  square, 
92  ft.  in  height.  The  only  remains  of  the  original  dome  are  the  wooden 
spandrels  of  the  stalactites.  The  inscriptions  on  the  wooden  frieze  are 
in  the  round  characters  (naskhi)  used  since  the  time  of  Saladin. 

The  Citadel  (PI.  E,  F,  6;  'El-Kala'),  commanding  the  city  but 
itself  overtopped  by  the  Mokattam  hills  (p.  454),  was  built  by 
Saladin  after  1166,  in  connection  with  the  third  town-wall  (p.  444). 
on  the  model  of  the  Crusaders'  castles  in  Syria.  The  only  remains 
of  that  building  are  the  E.  outer  wall  and  several  towers  in  the 
interior.  The  palaces  of  the  Aiyubides  (1171-1250),  already  half 
in  ruins  when  Selim  I.  entered  the  city  (1517),  have  entirely  dis- 
appeared. The  first  restoration  of  the  fortress  dates  from  the  reign 
of  El-Ghnri  (1501-16). 

The  direct  way  to  the  Citadel  from  the  Place  Rumeileh  is  by 
a  street  beyond  the  huge  gate-tower  Bdb  el-Azab  (PI.  E,  6),  where 
the  Mameluke  leaders  were  shot  by  order  of  Mohammed  Ali  (p.  444) 
in  1811.  The  chief  approaches,  ascending  from  the  broad  Sharia 
el-Maghar  (PI.  E,  6),  are  the  Sharia  Bab  el-Gedid  and  the  Sharia 
ed-Defterkhaneh.  The  latter,  for  foot-passengers  only,  passes  the 
S.  side  of  the  Defterkhdneh  (PI.  F,  6 ;  state-archives).  The  Bdb 
el-Gedid  (PI.  F,  6;  'new  gate')  leads  into  the  outer  court  of  the 
Citadel.  We  then  pass  through  the  Bdb  el-Wastdni  ('middle  gate') 
into  the  maiu  court,  where  the  'alabaster  mosque'  faces  us  and  the 
mosque  of  Nasir  rises  on  the  left. 

The  Gamia  en-Nasir  (PI.  F,  6),  built  by  En-Nasir  (p.  448)  in 
1317,  later  used  as  a  military  storehouse  and  a  prison,  has  now 
been  cleared  out,  but  may  be  seen  by  leave  of  the  British  military 
authorities.  The  fortress-like  facade,  and  the  portals  in  particular, 
show  traces  of  Romanesque  influence.  The  peculiar  minarets,  with 
their  bulbous  domes,  are  adorned  with  coloured  fayence  in  the  Per- 
sian style.  The  finest  columns  in  the  court  are  Byzantine;  others  are 
antique.    The  sadly  disfigured  liwans  still  retain  their  old  coloured 


454     Route  71.  CAIKO.  Gdmia  Mohammed  Ali 

fretwork  ceiling.  The  dome  in  front  of  the  prayer-niche,  which 
has  collapsed  with  the  exception  of  its  drum,  rests  on  ancient  Egyp- 
tian granite  columns,  as  in  the  mosque  of  Merdani  (p.  450). 

The  Gamia  Mohammed  Ali  (PL  E,  F,  6),  known  as  the 
'alabaster  mosque'  from  the  building-material  chiefly  used,  was 
begun  by  Mohammed  Ali  in  1824  but  completed  only  in  1857  by 
his  successor  Said.  The  architect  was  the  Greek  Yusuf  Boshna  of 
Constantinople,  who  built  it  on  the  model  of  the  Nuri  Osmanieh 
mosque  (p.  550)  with  a  staff  of  Greek  workmen.  The  tall  and  un- 
duly slender  minarets  form  one  of  the  chief  landmarks  of  Cairo.  The 
forecourt,  with  its  hanefiyeh  (fountain  with  taps),  is  flanked  with 
arcades.  The  *Sanctuary,  a  domed  Byzantine  hall,  borne  by  four 
square  pillars,  is  grandly  proportioned  and  beautifully  lighted.  To 
the  left  of  the  entrance  is  Mohammed  Ali's  tomb  (d.  1S49). 

From  the  S.W.  wall  of  the  Citadel,  opposite  the  Viceregal 
Palace,  we  enjoy,  especially  towards  evening,  a  magnificent  *View 
of  the  city  with  its  countless  minarets  and  domes.  To  the  N.  and 
AV.  are  the  windmill-hills  and  the  green  plains  watered  by  the 
Nile.   To  the  W.  rise  the  Pyramids  of  Gizeh. 

The  view  is  far  grander  from  the  **Mokattam  Hills,  or  Gebel  Gi- 
ytishi,  a  fine  standpoint  being  the  conspicuous  Gdmia  Giyitshi,  a  Fatimite 
mosque  (1085),  reached  in  '/2  hr.  from  the  Bab  el-Gebel  (PI.  F,  6),  the 
'hill-gate'  of  the  citadel.  A  side-path  to  the  right  leads  to  the  Convent 
of  the  Bektashi  (Turkish  dervishes),  picturesquely  situated  on  the  bare 
hill-side. 

From  the  Bab  el-Attaba  (Bab  el-Atabeg;  PI.  F,  5),  the  N.  gate  of  the 
Citadel,  we  proceed  past  the  cemetery  Kardfet  Bab  el-  Wezlr  (PI.  F,  5) 
to  the  Mameluke  tombs  (comp.  p.  458). 

c.  The  New  Town. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Ezbekiyeh  Garden  and  the  Place  de  l'Opera 
(p.  446),  to  the  W.  also  of  the  fashionable  Sharia  Kamel  (PL  B,  C,  2, 
3)  and  of  the  Sharia  Abdin  (PI.  C,  3, 4),  lie  the  new  Ismailiyeh  and 
Tewfiklyeh  quarters,  extending  to  the  Nile  and  the  Ismailiyeh 
Canal,  the  latter  quarter,  named  after  Tewfik  (p.  444),  being  the 
most  recent.  They  contain  several  of  the  large  hotels,  most  of  the 
ministerial  and  consular  offices,  the  chief  banks,  and  many  palaces 
of  wealthy  European,  Levantine,  and  Egyptian  magnates. 

Ismailiyeh  and  Tewfikiyeh  are  separated  by  the  broad  and  busy 
Sharia  Bulak  (PL  B,  A,  3 ;  tramway  No.  6,  p.  440),  which  leads  from 
the  Ezbekiyeh  Garden  to  the  Abu'l-Eileh  Bridge  (PL  A,  3)  and 
Buldk.  From  October  to  December  the  banks  of  the  Nile  present  a 
very  busy  scene,  the  state  of  the  river  being  then  most  favourable 
for  the  goods-traffic  from  Upper  Egypt,  Nubia,  and  the  fertile  Delta. 
—  Steam-ferry  to  Gezireh  (p.  457;  bridge  now  being  built). 

The  direct  way  to  the  Nile  is  by  the  Sharia  Kasr  en-NIl 
(PL  C-A,  3,  4),  diverging  from  the  Sharia  Abdin  to  the  S.  of  the 


Egyptian  Museum.  CAIRO.  71.  Route.     455 

Place  de  l'Opera.  It  crosses  the  round  Mldan  Suleiman  Basha  and 
ends  at  the  Midan  Mariette  Basha  (PI.  A,  4),  near  the  Egyptian 
Museum. 

A  little  to  the  S.  is  the  M!dan  IsmaIlIyeh  (PI.  A,  4,  5 ;  tram- 
way No.  4,  p.  440).  On  the  S.  side  of  it  runs  the  Sharia  el-Kubri, 
to  the  W.,  to  the  Great  Nile  Bridge  (p.  457),  while  from  it  to  the  S. 
stretches  the  long  Sharia  Kasr  el-A'ini  (PI.  A,  5,  6).  In  the  latter 
street,  immediately  to  the  left,  is  the  free  Egyptian  University 
(PL  A,  5),  founded  in  1908,  the  purpose  of  which,  in  contrast  to 
the  old  Gamia  el-Azhar  (p.  447),  is  to  offer  Mohammedans  a  liberal 
modern  education.  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  opposite  the  handsome 
houses  built  on  the  site  of  the  palace  Kasr  ed-Dubara,  are  the 
Ministries  of  Public  Works  and  War  (PI.  A,  B,  5)  and  the  building 
of  the  Sudan  Agency  ;  on  the  N.  side  of  the  grounds  is  the  Geological 
Museum.  —  Still  farther  to  the  S.  the  street  is  prolonged  by  the 
Sharia  Fum  el-Khalig  (PI.  A,  7),  leading  past  the  native  (Govern- 
ment) hospital  Kasr  el -Ami  (PI.  A,  7)  and  close  to  the  narrow 
E.  Arm  of  the  Nile  (Bahr  el-Khalig),  opposite  the  island  of  R6da 
(p.  461),  to  Old  Cairo  (comp.  p.  460). 


The  **Egyptian  Museum  (PI.  A,  4 ;  El-Antikkhdneh)  is  now 
housed  in  a  new  building  (1897-1902)  in  the  Sharia  Mariette  Basha, 
near  the  Great  Nile  Bridge.  The  collection,  the  greatest  of  its  kind, 
founded  in  1857  by  the  French  Egyptologist  Aug.  Mariette  (1821- 
81),  consists  of  Egyptian  and  Grseco-Roman  antiquities  found  in  the 
Nile  Valley.   Adm.,  see  p.  442.    Director,  M.  G.  Maspero. 

The  two  long  colonnades  adjoining  the  vestibule,  are  destined  for  casts. 
They  terminate  in  two  pavilions,  containing,  on  the  left,  the  Library 
and,  on  the  right,  the  office  for  the  sale  of  duplicates,  photographs,  and 
scientific  publications. 

The  Ground  Floor  contains  the  large  stone  monuments,  including  the 
sarcophagi  in  the  Grande  Galerie  d'Honneur,  beyond  the  vestibule. 

From  the  W.  (left)  wing  of  the  Grande  Galerie  we  first  enter,  to  the 
right,  Rooms  A-D,  containing  memorials  of  the  Old  Empire  (3rd-6th  Dyna- 
sties; about  B.C.  2900-2350).  Noteworthy  among  the  master-works  in 
Rooui  B  are:  *74.  Wooden  statue  of  a  man,  known  as  the  Sheikh  el- 
Beled  (village  magistrate);  73.  Statue  in  diorite  of  king  Khephren  (p.  463); 
7S.  Figure  of  an  official,  writing.  Case  B:  *114.  Nofer,  the  brewer;  115. 
Wooden  figure  of  a  man  in  a  cloak.  —  Room  D:  *163.  Statues  in  limestone 
of  prince  Ra-hotep  and  his  wife  Nofret;  167.  Statue  of  king  Phiops  I.,  in 
embossed  copper,  with  eyes  of  enamel;  164,  165.  Statues  in  limestone  of 
the  priest  Ra-nofcr. 

Rooms  E-H  contain  objects  dating  from  the  Middle  Empire  (12 -14th 
Dynasties;  about  B.  C.  2000-1680)  and  the  era  of  the  Hyksos  (Syrian  con- 
querors; 15th  and  16th  Dynasties;  about  1680-1580).  In  Room  F:  194  (in 
the  middle).  Wooden  statue  of  the  tutelary  genius  (Ka)  of  king  Hor;  199. 
Limestona  statue  of  king  Amenemhet  III.  —  Room  G:  206  (in  the  middle). 
Sacrificial  chamber  of  Harhotep,  with  drawings  of  the  furniture  of  the 
deceased;  207.  Ten  colossal  statues  of  Sosostris  I.  in  limestone.  —  Room  H: 
260.  Tombstone  of  Prince  Mentuhotep. 


456     Route  71.  CAIKO.  Egyptian  Museum. 

Rooms  I-P  and  the  large  Atrium  Central,  or  covered  court,  are  set 
apart  for  monuments  of  the  New  Empire  (17-20th  Dynasties;  about  B.  0. 
1580-1090).  Room  I:  300  (on  the  right).  Triumphal  monument  of  Thut- 
mosis  III.  (1501-1447);  338,  339.  The  goddess  Hathor,  as  a  cow,  in  the 
ancient  chapel  (naos);  *291.  Head  of  king  Haremheb  (?),  in  black  granite; 
312.  Bust  of  the  goddess  Mut(?);  327.  Statue  of  the  aged  Amenhotep; 
*334.  Statue  of  Thutmosis  II.,  in  slate;  341.  Statue  of  Isis,  mother  of  Thut- 
mosis  III. — Room  J:  316.  Statue  of  the  god  Khons.  —  Room  L  (beyond 
the  N.  gallery):  364.  Sacred  barge  in  red  granite. — Portique  du  Kord 
(beyond  the  covered  court):  398.  Memorial  stones  of  kings  Amenophis  III. 
('Memnon';  1411-1375)  and  Merenptah  (p.  457).  — RoomM:  378.  The  famous 
tablet  of  Sakkara  (p.  464),  with  its  list  of  kings;  390.  Statue  of  the  god 
Ptah.  — Rooms  N  and  0:  Chiefly  objects  of  the  Ramesside  period  (19-20th 
Dynasties).  Room  K:  616.  Granite  head  of  Ramses  II.  (about  1292-1225), 
best  known  of  all  the  Egyptian  kings  for  his  immense  building  enterprise. 

Rooms  Q-S:  Foreign  (B.C.  1090-663)  and  Late  Egyptian  (663-332)  Dyna- 
sties. Room  Q,:  1016.  Statue  of  the  goddess  Toeris  in  the  form  of  a  hippo- 
potamus, an  admirable  work  in  green  stone  (26th  Dynasty;  663-525);  667. 
'Pithom  Stele',  or  memorial  stone  of  Ptolemy  Philadelphus,  from  Pithoui. 

—  Room  S:    Ethiopian   period   (25th  Dynasty;    712-663);    685.    Alabaster 
statue  of  queen  Amenertai's. 

Rooms  T,  V,  and  X:  Ptolemaic  (B.C.  332-47;  comp.  p.  433),  Roman  (B.C. 
47-395  A.D.),  and  Coptic  monuments.  Room  T:  719.  Marble  bust  of  a  Gaul, 
a  Greek  original  from  Thasos;  728.  The  famous  trilingual  Decree  of  Ca- 
nopus  (B.C.  238),  in  sacred  (hieroglyphic),  popular  (demotic),  and  Greek 
characters.  —  Room  V:  Coptic  objects.  —  Room  X  (Case  A):  688.  Bust  of 
prince  Mentemhet,  and  689.  Bust  of  king  Taharka  (688-663;  the  Tirhakah 
of  the  Bible),  both  with  negro  features. 

The  Upper  Floor  contains  the  smaller  antiquities,  the  objects  found 
in  the  royal  tombs  of  Thebes  in  Upper  Egypt,  and  the  mummies. 

We  begin  with  the  Great  Gallery,  where  the  coffins  and  mummies 
of  priests  of  Ammon  are  exhibited. 

In  the  Salon  Meridional,  adjoining  the  central  court,  and  (to  the 
right)  in  Rooms  A  and  B,  are  vessels,  implements,  toilet  requisites,  musical 
instruments,  lamps,  candlesticks,  candelabra  etc.;  in  Case  G  of  the  South 
Hall  is  the  *Wooden  war-chariot  of  Thutmosis  IV.  (1420-1411),  with  beau- 
tiful reliefs.  Also  in  Room  A  (later  to  be  reserved  solely  for  Coptic 
objects),  Coptic  utensils.  —  Rooms  C-F:  Burial  equipments,  including 
figures  of  the  dead,  amulets,  jars  for  the  entrails  of  the  deceased  (so- 
called  Canopi). 

Rooms  G-I:  MSS.  on  papyrus  or  linen;  wooden  tablets,  potsherds 
(ostraca),  and  slabs  of  limestone,   used  as  cheap  substitutes  for  papyrus. 

—  Rooms  J-L:  Furniture  and  utensils. 

Rooms  M,  N,  and  Gallery  0  (to  the  N.):  Chiefly  Greek  and  Roman 
antiquities  and  foreign  objects.  In  glass-cases  C  and  D  of  Room  N  are 
(Nos.  433,  434)  the  famous  clay  tablets  from  Tell  el-Amarna  in  Central 
Egypt,  with  cuneiform  inscriptions,  being  letters  from  Babylonian  kings 
and  the  Hittite  kings  of  Arsapi  to  Amenophis  III.  (see  above). 

The  Salon  Septentrionale,  adjoining  Gallery  0,  contains  statues  of 
gods  and  requisites  for  their  cult.  Case  B:  886.  Hair-pin  in  the  form  of 
a  papyrus  stem  (Middle  Empire);  888.  Small  bowl  in  the  form  of  a  dog 
holding  a  fish  in  its  mouth;  without  number,  Head  of  a  woman  with  a 
wig;  *891.  Funerary  statuette  of  the  vizier  Ptahniose. — "We  now  cross 
Gallery  0  to  — 

Room  P,  with  its  rich  collection  of  *Trinkets,  illustrating  the  devel- 
opment of  the  Egyptian  goldsmiths'  art  from  the  earliest  age  down  to 
the  Byzantine  period  (A. D.  395-640).  Case  IV,  B,  in  a  recess  on  the  right, 
contains  jewellery  found  at  Abydos  in  Upper  Egypt  (bracelets  from  the 
tomb  of  king  Zer,  1st  Dyn.),  dating  from  the  earliest  period,  and  already 
showing  a  high  degree  of  skill.    To  the  Middle  Empire  belong  the  *Tomb 


Gezireh.  CAIRO.  It.  Route.     457 

Treasures  of  Dahshur  (p.  404;  trinkets  of  princess  Khnuniet,  etc.),  in  the 
centre  of  the  room,  showing  the  Egyptian  goldsmiths'  art  in  its  highest 
perfection.  Admirably  executed  are  also  the  *Trinkets  of  queen  Ahhotep, 
mother  of  king  Amosis,  the  Hyksos  conqueror  (1580 B.C.;  p.  455),  of  the 
New  Empire  (niche  on  the  right,  case  IV,  G-M.).  The  20th  and  21st 
Dynasties  also  are  represented  by  treasures  from  Bubastis  (p.  139;  Case  XII). 
The  extensive  collection  of  Graco-Roman  and  Byzantine  jewellery,  partly 
pure  Greek  in  style,  partly  of  ancient  Egyptian  pattern,  also  merit  notice. 
To  the  former  class  belongs  notably,  in  a  niche  to  the  left  (stands  VII,  X), 
the  *Treasure  of  Tukh  el-Karamus,  of  the  early  Ptolemaic  era  (about 
300  B.C.). 

Gallery  Q,  (continuation  of  Gallery  O)  and  Booms  R-U  contain  ♦Mum- 
mies of  the  kings  of  the  New  Empire,  from  the  ravine  Deir  el-Bahri  near 
Thebes.  In  Gallery  Q,:  1187.  Mummy  ofMerenptah,  son  and  successor  of 
Ramses  II.;  1251.  Gilded  coffin-lid  of  queen  Ahhotep  (see  above).  —  Room  S: 
Furnishings  from  the  tombs  of  Thutmosis  III.  (p.  456)  and  Amenophis  II, 
(B.C.  1447-1420);  wooden  figures,  boxes,  shrouds,  wigs,  etc.  —  Room  T-. 
♦Coffins  and  furnishings  from  the  tomb  of  the  parents-in-law  of  Ame- 
nophis III.  (p.  456). 

Rooms  V-Z,  Gallery  A',  and  the  last  Rooms  B'-D'  contain  requisites 
for  the  cult  of  the  dead.  Room  V:  Scarabsei  (beetle-stones),  used  as  amu- 
lets and  as  seals.  —  Room  Y:  Objects  found  in  tombs  of  the  Middle  and 
New  Empires;  in  cases  D  and  E,  1337,  1338.  Forty  Egyptian  soldiers  and 
forty  Eegro  soldiers,  carved  in  wood.  —  Room  C:  115-117.  Coffins  and 
mummy  of  Oment,  priestess  of  Hathor  and  lady  of  the  royal  harem  (11th 
Dyn.),  with  tattooed  body.  —  Room  D':  Relics  of  the  earliest  period,  mostly 
from  the  royal  tombs  at  Abydos  (see  p.  456). 

The  Great  Nile  Bridge  (PI.  A,  5 ;  Arabic  Kubri  Kasr  en- 
Nil),  427  yds.  long,  at  the  end  of  Sharia  el-Kubri  (p.  455),  connects 
the  new  town  with  Gezireh.  It  is  usually  opened  from  about  1.30 
to  3  p.m.  for  the  passage  of  vessels  (see  notices). 

The  island  GeziretBul&lc,  or  simply  Gezireh  ('island'),  is  the 
favourite  residence  of  the  fashionable  world.  The  *Park  (cafe  near 
the  bridge)  at  the  S.  end  is  much  frequented,  especially  in  the  after- 
noon, and  is  skirted  by  a  pleasant  drive  shaded  by  lebbakh-trees. 
Passing  the  Race  Course  and  the  grounds  of  the  Khedivial  Sporting 
Club,  we  reach  the  N.  part  of  the  island  with  its  handsome  villas, 
the  Ghezireh  Palace  Hotel  (p.  440 ;  built  by  Franz  Pasha  in  1863-4 
as  a  viceregal  palace),  and  the  interesting  Aquarium  (8.30  to 
5  o'cl.,  2  pias.;  Prid.  5  pias.).  —  Steam-ferry  to  Bfil&Jc  (p.  454). 

From  Gezireh  a  road  crosses  the  sometimes  dry  W.  arm  of  the 
Nile,  above  the  so-called  English  Bridge,  and  leads  to  the  S.  to  the 
village  of  Gizeh  (tramways  Nos.  3  &  5,  see  p.  440).  On  the  right, 
beyond  the  Gtza  Garden,  is  the  Polytechnic  School.  Farther  on, 
opposite  Roda  (p.  461),  is  the  — 

-Zoological  Garden  (adm.  1j2  pias. ;  on  Sun.  afternoon,  when  a 
band  plays,  5  pias.),  containing  many  Egyptian  and  Sudanese  animals 
and  an  aquarium.  The  grounds,  50  acres  in  area,  with  their  superb 
royal  palms  (Oreodoxa  regia)  and  pond  for  aquatic  flowers,  are 
in  themselves  worth  seeing. 

Gizeh  and  the  Pyramids,  see  pp.  461-463. 


458     Route  7/.  CAIRO.  Mameluke  Tombs. 

d.  Environs. 

1.  The  *Mameluke  Tombs,  to  the  E.  of  the  old  town,  erro- 
neously called  the  Tombs  of  the  Caliphs  (comp.  P,  3,  4),  date  mostly 
from  the  second  Mameluke  dynasty  (pp.  444,  445).  They  are  most 
easilv  reached,  on  donkey-hack  (p.  441),  from  the  Bab  en-Nasr 
(PI.  E,  2;  p.  449). 

Passing  a  large  Moslem  Cemetery  (PI.  E,  F,  2)  we  come  first 
to  the  N.E.  group  of  the  tombs,  all  much  ruined.  These  are  the 
Tomb  Mosque  of  Emir  el-Kebir,  son  of  Bars  Bey  (p.  446),  the 
*Monastery  Mosque  of  Sultan  Melek  el-Ashraf  Indl  (1453-68), 
an  irregular  quadrangle  of  115  by  51  yds.,  with  a  fine  minaret  and 
dome,  and  the  cubical  Tomb  of  an  Emir  of  El-GhUri  (p.  449). 

"We  now  turn  to  the  S.  to  visit  the  * Monastery  Mosque  of  Sultan 
Barkuk  (p.  448),  partly  restored  of  late.  It  forms  a  square  of 
80  yds.  each  way.  The  two  handsome  minarets  have  been  deprived 
of  their  bulb-like  summits.  In  front  of  the  mihrab  is  a  small  dome. 
Of  the  two  mausoleums  that  on  the  N.  was  built  in  1400-5  by 
Barkuk's  sons  Farag  and  Aziz ;  that  on  the  S.,  together  with  the 
monastery  (Khanka),  was  completed  by  Farag  in  1410. 

The  old  chief  portal,  with  its  stalactite  niche,  is  on  the  N.  side. 
To  the  right  of  it  is  a  sehil  with  an  elegant  kuttab  (p.  445).  On  the  left 
are  the  ruins  of  the  three-storied  monastery  and  a  dilapidated  hall  con- 
necting the  monastery  with  the  tomb  of  Barkuk's  father,  Sharaf  ed-Din 
Anas  (d.  1382). 

From  the  present  entrance  in  the  outbuilding  at  the  S.W.  angle  we 
pass  through  a  vestibule  and  a  corridor  to  the  quadrangle  (sahn)  with 
its  fountain  (hanefiyeh).  The  liwans,  borne  by  pillars,  are  roofed  with 
flat  domes,  some  of  which  have  fallen  in.  The  beautifully  proportioned 
sanctuary,  with  nave  and  two  aisles,  contains  three  plain  prayer-recesses 
and  a  stone  *Pulpit  presented  by  Ka'it  Bey  (1483;  see  below).  Large  double 
portals  lead  to  the  left  to  the  mausoleum  of  Barkuk  and  his  sons,  and 
to  the  right  to  the  tombs  of  the  ladies  of  the  family. 

Within  a  walled  court  a  little  to  the  "W.  are  the  Tombs  of 
Emirs  Suleimdn  ibn  Selim  (d.  1526)  and  AJimed.  The  dome  of 
the  former  is  richly  adorned  with  trellis-work  set  in  lozenge-shaped 
meshes,  and  shows  remains  of  the  inscribed  frieze  of  blue  fayence. 

A  few  minutes'  walk  to  the  S.W.,  past  the  large  flattened  dome 
of  the  Turkish  Mabed  er-Rifaiyeh,  brings  us  to  the  Hosh  of  Ktiit 
Bey  (1468-96),  once  330  yds.  long,  the  largest  family  burial-place 
at  Cairo,  now  occupied  by  a  whole  village.  A  dilapidated  dwelling- 
house  (rab),  86  yds.  long,  and  trough,  and  the  tomb-mosque  still  exist. 

The  *Tomb  Mosque  of  Edit  Bey,  the  finest  of  all  the  Mame- 
luke tombs,  at  once  strikes  the  eye  with  its  wall  decoration  in  col- 
oured stripes,  the  delicate  network  of  the  dome  of  the  mausoleum, 
and  the  graceful  minaret,  131  ft.  high.  Between  the  minaret  and 
the  railed-in  sebil  is  the  chief  portal  with  its  trefoil  arch,  leading 
into  a  vestibule  containing  the  throne  of  the  sultan.  The  adjoining 
sanctuary,  with  its  pavement  in  coloured  mosaic,  its  two  inscription- 
friezes,  its  kamariyehs,  and  stained-glass  windows,  has  been  almost 


Ueliopolia.  CAIRO.  7/.  Houte.     459 

entirely  renewed.  The  minibar  or  pulpit  also  is  modern.  The  liwan 
opposite  still  has  its  fine  old  timber  ceiling.  The  mausoleum,  on 
the  S.W.  side  of  the  sanctuary,  also  shows  great  wealth  of  colouring. 
A  colonnade  adjacent  contains  the  tombs  of  the  sultan's  four  wives. 

We  now  follow  the  Sharia  es-Sultan  Ahmed  and  (to  the  right) 
Sluiiia  Karafet  el-Mamalik,  cross  the  so-called  Windmill  Hill 
(PI.  F,  3),  the  central  great  mound  of  debris  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
old  town,  and  thus  regain  the  Fatimite  city  (Sharia  esh-Sharawani, 
p.  446).  On  the  way,  from  the  'Point  de  Vue'  marked  on  the  Plan, 
we  have  a  fine  *View  of  the  city  of  tombs  and  the  Mokattam  Hills 
behind  us. 

The  Sharia  Karafet  Bab  el-Wczir,  the  S.  prolongation  of  Sharia  es- 
Sultan  Ahmed,  leads  to  the  Citadel  (corup.  p.  453). 

2.  Excursion  to  the  Heltoi>olis  Oasis  and  Heliopolis-On. 
The  new  Heliopolis  Oasis  is  most  quickly  (10  min.)  reached  from 
Cairo  by  the  Metropolitan  Railway  (p.  441),  or  by  railway  and 
electric  tramway  via  Palais  de  Koubbeh  (20-30  min.;  comp. 
below) ;  tramway  No.  10  in  ca.  50  min.,  see  p.  440;  cab,  see  p.  441. 

The  Heliopolis  Oasis  or  New  Heliopolis  (hotels,  see  p.  440), 
called  by  the  Arabs  Masr  el-Gedida,  i.  e.  'New  Cairo',  is  a  new 
'suburb',  founded  in  1906  by  a  Belgian  company,  about  5  M.  to  the 
N.E.  of  Cairo.  On  this  healthy  site  an  entirely  modern  town,  con- 
sisting of  villas  and  buildings  mostly  in  the  Moorish  style,  is  being 
laid  out  on  an  ambitious  scale.  Broad  avenues  planted  with  trees 
and  streets  pleasantly  interspersed  with  spacious  squares  intersect 
the  town,  while  recreation  grounds  of  every  description  and  a  race 
course  provide  for  the  residents'  entertainment.  —  Heliopolis  Oasis 
is  connected  with  Cairo  by  a  beautiful  Avenue  (cab,  see  p.  441), 
the  favourite  promenade  of  the  inhabitants  and  visitors  in  Cairo, 
which,  close  to  the  Oasis,  passes  the  not  yet  completed  British 
Barracks. 

The  visit  to  Heliopolis-On  may  be  combined  with  the  route  just 
described  by  way  of  rail,  station  Palais  de  Koubbeh  (tramway,  see  below). 
If,  however,  we  make  our  visit  from  Cairo  direct  we  go  by  railway  from  the 
Pont  Limfin  Station  (p.  439;  trains  every  '/a  hr.,  in  21  min.;  also  several 
fast  trains  in  '/<  hr. ;  return-fare  4'/2  or  3  pias.). 

The  train  crosses  the  IsmaiUyeh  Canal  (p.  438).  2  M.  Dr.mirdash,  or 
Demerdachc,  station  for  the  villa-suburb  of  Abbdsiyeh,  4'/4  M.  Palais  de 
Koubbeh,  with  the  Khedivial  Palace;  from  the  station  an  electric  tramway, 
in  connection  with  the  trains,  runs  to  the  S.E.  to  (1  M.)  the  Heliopolis 
Oasis  (soo  above).  5  M.  Ezbet  ez-Zeitun,  a  group  of  villas;  C'/4  M. 
Matariyeh. 

At  the  village  of  Matariyeh  (hotel),  in  a  garden  to  the  right  of  the 
road,  is  the  Virgin's  Tree,  a  sycamoro  marking  the  spot  where  the  Holy 
Family  is  said  to  have  resided  during  their  exile  in  Egypt.  A  little  to 
the  E.  of  the  station  is  an  Ostrich  Farm  (adm.  10  pias.),  with  a  belvedere. 

From  the  Virgin's  Garden  the  Sharia  el-Misalleh  (obelisk  street)  leads 
to  the  N.  to  tho  site  of  Heliopolis-On,  one  of  the  most  ancient  places 
in  Egypt,  famous  for  the  cult  of  the  falcon-headed  sun-god  Rc-Harakhte. 
The  Obelisk  of  red  granite  is  the  oldest  in  the  land.  Scanty  fragments 
of  the  temple  and  of  the  town-wall  are  the  only  other  ruins. 

Baedeker's  Mediterranean.  30 


460     Route  71.  CAIRO.  Old  Cairo. 

3.  We  may  next  visit  Old  Cairo  (tramway  No.  4,  p.  440). 

The  route  is  by  the  Sharia  Mask  el-Kadimeh,  the  continuation 
of  Sharia  Fum  el-Khalig  (PI.  A,  7;  p.  455).  On  the  left,  at  its  be- 
ginning, is  a  hexagonal  Water  Tower,  which  once  supplied  an 
Aqueduct  (El-Kanatir)  built  by  El-Ghuri  (p.  449),  extending  to  Bab 
el-Karafeh  (PL  E,  7),  and  still  traceable  in  its  ruins,  66  ft.  high. 

About  1/t  M.  beyond  the  new  Abbas  Bridge  (p.  461)  the  Sharia 
Gamia  Amr.  on  the  left,  leads  to  the  picturesque  old  Coptic  convent 
Deir  Abu  Sefein  and  the  Amru  Mosque  (see  below). 

From  the  tramway-terminus  in  the  poor  little  town  of  Old  Cairo 
(Masr  el-Kadimeh,  p.  443)  we  follow  the  street  to  the  Gizeh  steam- 
ferry  (p.  461),  turn  to  the  left  past  the  police-station,  and  in  the 
Sharia  es-Saghir  to  the  left  again.  This  brings  us  to  St.  Georges, 
a  station  on  the  Helwan  railway  (see  p.  439).  On  the  E.  side  of 
the  railway  is  the  site  of  — 

Babylon  (p.  443),  a  Roman  castle,  of  which  the  only  remains 
are  parts  of  the  outer  walls  and  a  Gateway,  on  the  S.W.  side,  with 
two  projecting  towers. 

Within  the  precincts  of  the  ancient  fortress  now  lies  Kasr  esh- 
Shama,  a  village  inhabited  chiefly  by  Copts,  with  a  synagogue,  five 
mediaeval  Coptic  churches  (El-Moallaka,  Abu  Sergeh,  etc.),  and 
the  Greek  Convent  of  St.  George  (W.  side).  One  of  the  entrance's 
is  between  the  convent  and  an  old  lower. 

From  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  fortress,  skirting  the  rubbish-mounds 
of  Fosttit  (p.  443),  we  reach  (10  min.)  the  Amru  Mosque,  surrounded 
by  cemeteries  and  potteries,  where  the  porous  kullehs  are  made,  and 
conspicuous  by  its  red  and  white  striped  facade. 

The  Gamia  Amr  ibn  el-Asi,  commonly  called  the  Amru 
Mosque  by  Europeans,  is  named  after  the  general  of  caliph  Omar 
(p.  443).  It  was  originally  a  small  edifice  built  in  642,  probably 
of  crude  bricks,  but  it  was  repeatedly  rebuilt  or  restored,  as  in  698 
and  827,and  notably  by  Saladin  in  1172,  after  the  invasion  of  king 
Amalarich  of  Jerusalem  and  the  burning  of  Fostat  in  1168.  Other 
restorations  took  place  in  the  three  following  centuries.  The  two 
minarets  are  modern. 

The  Interior,  a  slightly  irregular  rectangle,  132  by  108  yds.,  though 
sadly  ruinous,  is  of  impressive  dimensions.  The  sis-aisled  sanctuary 
contains  21  series  of  arcades  (with  pointed  arches)  running  towards  the 
kibla  (prayer  niche  facing  Mecca).  The  three  outer  rows  of  columns  on 
each  side  are  continued  by  those  of  the  N.E.  and  the  S.W.  liwans,  of 
which,  however,  the  bases  alone  remain.  The  liwan  on  the  side  of  the 
quadrangle  next  the  entrance  has  a  single  arcade  only.  The  Roman  and 
Byzantine  columns  from  Memphis  (p.  464),  once  366  in  number  it  is  said, 
have  been  utilized  without  regard  to  symmetry  or  congruity. 

In  the  centre  of  the  court,  now  planted  with  trees,  is  a  hanefiyeh 
(18th  cent.).  In  the  N.  angle  of  the  sanctuary  is  an  uninteresting  monu- 
ment over  the  supposed  tomb  of  Sheikh  Abdallah,  son  of  Amr,  erected  by 
Abbas  I.  (1849-54).  On  the  almost  intact  S.W.  wall  of  the  sanctuary  are 
curious  wood-carvings,  still  purely  Byzantine  (9th  cent.). 


Pyramids  of  Giseh.  CAIEO.  7t.  Route.     4G1 

4.  The  Pvramids  of  Gizeh  should  be  visited  on  a  calm  and 
clear  day,  as  the  sand-drift  is  most  trying  in  windy  weather. 
(Umbrella  or  dark-coloured  spectacles  advisable  to  protect  the  eyes 
from  the  glare.)  The  excursion  takes  at  least  4  hrs.,  or,  including 
Sakkara,  a  whole  day.  Those  who  are  pressed  for  time  visit  the 
Great  Pyramid,  the  Sphinx,  and  the  Granite  Temple  only.  (Tram- 
way Xo.  1,  see  p.  440;  carr.  in  l-l'/i  hr.,  p.  441.) 

The  tramway  diverges  at  Old  Cairo  (p.  460),  about  770  yds.  to 
the  S.  of  the  Water  Tower,  to  the  right  from  line  No.  4,  and  crosses 
a  branch  of  the  Nile  to  the  island  of  Roda (Geziret Rdda),  at  the 
S.  end  of  which  is  the  old  Nilometer  (Arabic  Mikyas),  dating  from 
the  time  of  the  Omaiyade  caliph  Suleiman  (716),  but  often  restored 
since. 

We  next  cross  the  main  channel  of  the  Nile  by  the  PontAbbdsII. 
(opened  10-11  a.  m.  and  3.30  to  4.30  p.  m.  for  the  passage  of  vessels) 
to  the  village  of  Gizeh  (Tues.  market),  at  the  N.  end  of  which, 
about  550  yds.  below  the  steam-ferry  (p.  460),  our  tramway  joins 
the  branch  from  Gezireh  (p.  457). 

Leaving  the  Nile,  and  passing  a  station  on  the  Upper  Egyptian 
railway  (p.  463),  we  still  have  a  run  of  5  M.,  nearly  due  W.,  to  the 
Pyramids,  the  huge  angular  forms  of  which  gradually  become  more 
distinct  and  soon  stand  out  in  clear  outlines. 

The  terminus  of  the  tramway  is  near  the  large  Mena  House 
Hotel  (p.  440),  on  the  N.E.  border  ot  the  Libyan  Desert.  Adjacent 
i-.  a  Greek  restaurant.  The  road  then  ascends  in  a  curve  to  the 
v1. ._,  M.)  plateau  of  the  Pyramids. 

Near  the  tramway-terminus  is  a  station  tor  donkeys  and  camels  (5  pias. 
I'  i  boor;  see  also  pp.  3 73,  171).  —  The  plateau  is  open  to  the  public  and 
may  be  quite  well  explored  without  a  guide.  Tickets  of  admittance  to 
the  monuments  themselves  arc  sold  at  a  stall  next  to  the  Viceregal  Kiosque, 
at  the  N.E.  corner  of  tho  Great  Pyramid.  Guides  (Bedouins)  also  are 
obtained  here  on  application  to  their  sheikh  (recognizable  by  the  rosette 
on  his  breast).  Ticket  for  the  ascent  of  the  Great  Pyramid  10  pias.  (for 
the  interior,  also  10  pias.);  for  the  other  monuments  5  pias.;  for  the  entire 
expedition,  including  the  ascent  of  the  Great  Pyramid  and  the  visit  to  its 
interior,  20  pias.  —  Bakshish  optional,  but  it  is  usual  to  give  a  few  piastres. 
No  attention  should  be  paid  to  beggars  or  to  vendors  of 'antiquities'.  Un- 
official  guides  who  try  to  thrust  themselves  on  visitors  should  be  repelled, 
with  the  aid  of  the  police  if  need  be. 

The  >: 'Pyramids  of  Gizeh  form  the  second  and  most  impos- 
ing of  the  six  groups  of  pyramids  extending  along  the  border  of  the 
Libyan  desert,  in  a  line  of  about  1!)  M.  in  length.  To  the  N.AV.  is 
the  Abu  Rodsh  group,  towards  the  S.E.  are  the  groups  of  Zdwyetel- 
Arydn,  Abusir  (p.  46  1  .  Sakktira  (p.  464),  and  Dahshur  (p.  464). 
The  Arabs  call  them  ahrdm  (sing,  h&ram). 

The  Pyramids  of  Gizeh,  creations  of  the  4th  Dynasty  (about 
B.C.  '2850  to  2700;,  rank  among  the  oldest  monuments  of  human  in- 
dustry, and  their  colossal  proportions  extort  from  us  to-day  the  same 
astonishment  that  was  felt  in  antiquity  by  Greek  and  Roman  tray- 

30* 


4G2     Route  71.  CAIRO.  Pyramids  of 

ellers.  Wc  marvel  both  at  the  technical  skill  shown  by  theEgyptians 
in  their  construction,  and  at  the  might  of  the  kings,  who  must  have 
had  the  services  of  many  thousands  of  their  subjects  at  command. 
The  pyramids  are  believed  to  have  been  built  in  layers.  Each  king 
at  his  accession  began  to  erect  his  tomb-pyramid  on  a  small  scale. 
If  wealthy  or  long-lived  he  enlarged  the  original  design,  and  after 
his  death  the  outer  covering  was  added. 

The  **Great  Pyramid,  erected  by  Kheops  or  Cheops,  the 
Khufu  of  the  Egyptians,  was  called  by  them  Yekhwel  Khufu  (the 
'glorious  place  of  Khufu').  Herodotus  (II,  125)  states  that  100,000 
men  were  employed  for  three  months  every  year  in  building  it 
The  outer  covering,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  fragments  on  the 
base  below  the  entrance,  has  disappeared.  Each  side  is  now  248  yds. 
in  length  (originally  255  yds.).  The  perpendicular  height  is  450  ft. 
(once,  to  the  apex,  480  ft.).  The  sides  rise  at  an  angle  of  51°50'. 
The  solid  content  of  the  masonry,  deducting  the  nucleus  of  rock 
and  the  chambers  in  the  interior,  was  formerly  about  3,302,500 
(and  is  still  about  3,081,100)  cubic  yards.  This  stupendous  struc- 
ture is  composed  of  yellowish  limestone  blocks,  quarried  in  the 
vicinity  and  containing  numerous  fossils,  chiefly  nummulites  (a 
kind  of  snail-shell),  while  the  incrustation  consisted  of  blocks  of 
a  finer  white  limestone  from  the  Mokattam  quarries. 

The  Ascent  of  the  Pyramid,  though  free  from  danger,  is  very  toilsome. 
The  visitor  is  helped  up  the  steps,  mostly  3  ft.  high,  hy  three  Bedouins, 
two  holding  his  hands  and  the  third  pushing  hehind.  Wc  may  reach  the 
top,  a  platform  of  11  yds.  square,  in  10-15  rain.,  but  a  more  leisurely 
ascent  is  advisable.  The  *View  of  the  yellow  sands  and  bare  rocks  of 
the  great  desert-plateau,  on  which  rise  the  Sphinx,  the  smaller  pyramids 
of  Crizeh,  and  the  more  distant  tombs  stretching  as  far  as  Dahshur,  awakens 
solemn  thoughts  of  death  and  eternity.  At  our  feet  stretches  a  tract  of 
rich  arable  laud,  luxuriantly  clothed  with  blue-green  vegetation  and  en- 
tirely inundated  in  autumn.  To  the  E.,  beyond  the  glittering  river,  rise 
the  citadel  of  Cairo  and  the  warmly-coloured  Mokattam  hills. 

The  Interior  of  the  Pyramid  will  not  interest  ordinary  travellers. 
The  air  in  the  passages,  hall,  and  tomb-chamber  is  hot  and  stifling  and 
makes  the  visit  very  disagreeable. 

From  the  E.  side  of  the  Great  Pyramid,  where  a  Temple  for 
the  cult  of  the  dead  once  stood,  we  walk  past  the  Three  Small 
Pyramids  of  relatives  of  Kheops  to  the  Sphinx,  which  rises  from 
the  sand  of  the  desert  some  350  yds.  to  the  S.E. 

The  *'*Sphinx,  the  most  famous  monument  in  this  vast  burial- 
ground,  probably  once  a  natural  rock,  has  the  form  of  a  recum- 
bent lion  with  the  head  of  a  king  (Khephren?),  wearing  a  head- 
cloth  adorned  with  the  royal  serpent.  In  front  of  the  breast  is  the 
image  of  a  god,  much  weather-worn.  The  head  also  is  sadly  muti- 
lated, the  nose  and  beard  have  broken  off,  and  the  reddish  tint 
which  once  enlivened  the  face  has  almost  entirely  disappeared.  But 
in  spite  of  all  injuries  the  monument  preserves  a  striking  ex- 
pression of  strength  and  majesty.    The  eyes  have  a  pensive,  far- 


Gizeh.  CAIRO.  71. Route.     463 

away  look,  the  lips  wear  a  half-smile,  and  the  whole  face  is  of 
graceful  and  beautiful  type.  The  height  of  the  monument,  from  the 
pavement  on  which  the  fore-legs  of  the  lion  rest  to  the  crown  of 
the  head  is  about  66  ft. ;.  its  length,  from  the  lion's  fore-paws  to  the 
root  of  the  tail,  is  about  186  ft.   On  the  top  of  the  head  is  a  cavity. 

Some  48  yds.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Sphinx  are  the  remains  of 
the  *Granite  Temple,  or  Sphinx  Temple,  a  large  building  of 
hewn  stone.  It  was  once  the  sacred  entrauce  through  which  the 
Pyramid  of  Khephren  (see  below)  was  approached  from  the  valley 
below.  The  edifice  is  a  fine  example  of  majestic  simplicity,  and  the 
very  hard  stone  has  been  treated  with  marvellous  skill.  The  exter- 
ior of  the  temple  is  buried  in  rubbish.  The  two  main  halls  are  rect- 
angular, and  the  beams  of  their  ceilings  rested  on  granite  pillars. 

The  Circuit  of  the  Pvramid  Plateau  (l'/s-2  hrs.)  is  interesting. 
From  the  Great  Pyramid  we  walk  to  the  W.  to  the  great  Burial  Ground 
of  the  relatives  and  officials  of  the  royal  family,  as  well  as  of  the  priests 
and  officials  of  the  temples  of  the  dead.  The  square  tombs  (mastabas) 
are  ranged  in  .straight  lines  like  streets,  affording  a  good  example  of  an 
Egyptian  necropolis.  On  the  way  we  pass  the  Tomb  of  Shepses-kef-onekh, 
dating  from  (he  5th  Dynasty  (about  2700-2550  B.  C). 

Through  a  cleft  in  the  rock,  near  the  Quarry  which  yielded  the  stone 
in  the  reign  of  Ramses  II.  for  the  temple  of  Heliopolis  (p.  459),  we  de- 
scend to  the  artificially  levelled  plateau  of  the  — 

Second.  Pyramid,  Egyp.  Wer-Khefre  ('great  is  Khefrt'),  built  by 
Khephren  (Khefre).  Standing  on  higher  ground,  it  looks  larger  than  the 
Pyramid  of  Kheops.  Its  perpendicular  height  is  447  (once  454)  ft.;  each 
side  is  230  (formerly  235)  yds.  in  length ;  its  sides  rise  at  an  angle  of 
52° 20'.  The  masonry  has  a  solid  content  of  2,173,552  (once  2,445,377)  cub.  yds. 

The  foundations  of  the  Temple  of  the  Dead,  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
pyramid,  were  excavated  in  1908.  On  the  W.  side  of  the  pyramid  wo 
observe  an  Inscription  and  several  Rock  Tombs.  Adjacent  is  a  mummy 
shaft  (caution  advisable). 

The  road  now  leads  to  the  S.W.  to  the  Third  Pyramid,  Egyp. 
Neter-Mt  rikewri  ('divine  is  Menkewre'),  built  by  Menkewre,  the  Mykerinos 
of  Herodotus.  Its  perpendicular  height  is  204  (once  218)  ft.,  while  its 
sides  rise  at  an  angle  of  51°;  each  side  of  the  base  measures  118  yds.  The 
stones  are  unusually  large.    To  the  S.  rise  Three  Small  Pyramids. 

We  next  walk  to  the  remains  of  the  Temple  of  the  Dead  to  the  E. 
of  the  third  pyramid  and  then  follow  the  ancient  paved  track  by  which 
the  stones  were  once  brought  up  from  the  Nile  valley.  On  the  way, 
among  several  Rock  Tombs,  are  the  ruins  of  an  unfinished  pyramid.  Pass- 
ing a  very  ruinous  family  burial-place  of  the  26th  Dynasty,  called  Camp- 
bell's Tomb  after  its  discoverer,  we  now  descend  to  the  Granite  1\  »>j>l<- 
(see  above),  and  walk  to  the  N.W.,  past  the  Sphinx  (p.  462),  to  the  Three 
Small  Pyramids  (p.  462)  near  the  Pyramid  of  Kheops. 

Lastly  we  may  visit  the  Rock  Tombs  of  the  Ancient  Empire,  near 
the  Arab  village  Kafr  el-lL\ram.  The  best-known,  the  '■Tomb  of  Numbers', 
contains  badly  preserved  reliefs  (counting  of  cattle). 

5.  The  Excursion  to  Memphis  and  Sakkara  is  easily  made 
in  one  day.  Provisions  (supplied  by  the  hotels  in  lieu  of  dejeuner), 
candles  (obtainable  also  at  Bedrashein),  and  if  possible  an  acetylene 
lamp  should  be  taken.  We  start  early  from  the  chief  station  (first 
train  usually  at  7  a.m.)  by  the  Upper  Egyptian  line  for  Bedrashein 
(1  hr. ;  fare  16'/2  or  8V2  pias.),  where  donkeys  are  in  waiting  (to 


464     Route  71.  CAIRO.  Memphis. 

Sakkara  and  back  10  pias. ;  bargain  should  be  made  in  presence  of 
the  Bedouin  sheikh).  The  ride  back  takes  fully  lx/2  hr.  (train  for 
Cairo  at  present  4.56  p.m.).  Tickets  for  the  monuments  (5  pias.) 
are  sold  by  the  custodians  or  at  Marietta's  House  (p.  465). 

Robust  travellers  may  ride  from  Sakkara  along  the  margin  of  the 
desert,  or  viS.  the  pyramids  of  Abusir,  in  2V--3  hrs.  to  the  Mena  House 
Hotel  (p.  461).  The  charge  (15-20  pias.)  should  be  agreed  upon  with  the 
donkey-boy  at  the  Bedrashein  station.  In  the  reverse  direction  we  may 
go  by  tramway  to  Gizeh  (comp.  p.  401),  and  ride  thence  via  the  Pyramids 
of  Gizeh  to  Sakkara  (donkey  20,  camel  30  pias.;  comp.  pp.  173,  174).  Or 
we  may  drive  in  a  desert-car  (80  pias.)  from  Mena  House  Hotel  along 
the  border  of  the  desert  to  Sakkara. 

The  Railway,  passing  Bul&k  (p.  454),  runs  to  the  N.W.  and 
crosses  the  Nile.  2  M.  Embdbeh,  noted  for  the  'battle  of  the 
Pyramids',  in  which  Bonaparte  defeated  the  Mamelukes  in  1798. — 
Describing  a  circuit  the  train  next  comes  to  (6'/4  M.)  Buldfc  ed- 
Dakrur,  on  a  Nile  canal.  At  (8  M.)  Gizeh  (p.  461)  we  sight  the 
Pyramids  (p.  461)  on  the  right,  and  then,  on  the  left,  Old  Cairo 
(p.  460)  and  the  long  range  of  the  Mokattam  (p.  454),  continued  to 
the  S.E.  by  Gebel  Turra.  Next,  on  the  left,  is  Geziret  Tirsd,  an 
island  in  the  Nile. 

14'/2  M.  Abu  Nemru's.  On  the  right  rise  the  hills  bordering 
(he  Libyan  desert,  with  the  pyramids  of  Abusir.  Beyond  (lT'/a^L) 
El-Haxvamdiyeh  the  step-pyramid  (p.  465)  is  visible  for  a  short 
time.  To  the  left,  at  the  foot  of  Gebel  Turra,  lies  Helw&n  (Helouan), 
a  winter  health-resort. 

2072M.   Bedrashein,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  railway. 

From  the  railway-crossing  we  ride  to  the  W.,  past  the  village 
(Wed.  market),  by  a  road  through  green  fields,  which  are  entirely 
flooded  in  autumn,  to  the  (20  min.)  palm-grove  of  Bedrashein. 

In  the  foreground,  shaded  by  palms,  lies  the  site  of  Memphis, 
now  a  heap  of  debris,  the  oldest  capital  of  Eo;ypt,  founded  under 
the  name  of  'White  Walls'  about  3400  B.  C.  by  Menes,  the  first 
historical  king.  The  vast  area  of  the  ruins  seems  to  have  extended, 
down  to  the  12th  cent.  A.D.,  as  far  as  Gizeh.  The  chief  quarters  of 
the  city  probably  lay  on  the  fields  of  Bedrashein  and  Mit-Rahineh. 

The  road  forks  20  min.  beyond  Bedrashein.  The  Summer  Route, 
impassable  during  the  inundations,  leads  to  the  left  in  about  8  min. 
to  the  two  *Colossal  Statues  of  Ramses  II.  (p.  456),  both  now 
prostrate,  which  once  stood  at  the  entrance  to  the  famous  temple 
of  Ptah.  The  first  is  25  ft.,  or  including  the  crown  31l/2  ft.,  long; 
the  second,  protected  by  a  mud-hut  (adm.  4  pias.),  is  42  ft.  in  length. 

We  now  ride  on,  leaving  the  village  of  Mit  Rahinch  at  a  little 
distance  to  the  right,  towards  the  palm-grove  of  Sakkara,  at  the 
foot  of  the  desert-plateau.  On  the  yellow  sand  of  the  desert  rise 
eleven  pyramids.  To  the  extreme  left  (S.)  is  the  necropolis  of 
DahshUr,  where  the  'blunted  pyramid'  or  'pyramid  of  the  two 


Sakkdra.  CAIRO.  '71.  Route.     .4;;;, 

angles'  catches  the  eye.  To  the  rig-lit  (to  the  N.W.  of  the  huts  of 
Sakkftra)  rise  the  Onnos  and  step-pyramids  (see  below). 

Turning  to  the  X.  mar  Sakkara,  1U  hr.  beyond  the  statues  of 
Ramses,  and  skirting  th;'  palm-grove,  we  ride  towards  the  ruins  of 
some  mud-built  houses.  The  Winter  Route  from  the  bifurcation 
mentioned  at  p.  464  makes  a  long  bend  to  the  N.  and  leads  through 
the  palm-grove  of  Bedrashein  and  past  the  ruins  of  the  brick  houses 
of  ancient  Memphis;  it  then  crosses  a  sluice-bridge,  passes  on  either 
reral  ponds,  and  rejoins  the  summer  route. 

We  now  ascend  to  the  sandy  plateau  and  overlook  the  *Necro- 
polis  of  Sakkara.  This  vast  area,  about  4'/2  M.  long  from  N. 
to  S.  and  from  550  to  1600  yds.  in  breadth  from  E.  to  W.,  has 
afforded  material  for  repeated  exploration. 

We  ride  straight  to  the  *Slep  Pyramid  (Arab.  El-Haram  el- 

Mudarrag),  the  great  landmark  of  Sakkara.    This  was  the  tomb  of 

king  Zoser  (3rd  Dynasty,  about  2900-2850  B.C.),  and  is  still  older 

than  the  pyramids  of  Gizeh.    It  is  196  ft.  high,  and  each  step  re- 

•  about  (i'/o  ft. 

About  330  yds.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Step  Pyramid  rises  the  Pyramid 
Of  Kimj  OnnOS  (or  Unis;  about  2550  B.C.),  which  is  easily  scaled.  The 
view  embraces  all  the  pyramids  from  Dahshur  to  Gizeh.  The  central 
chamber  and  burial-vault  in  the  interior  (shown  by  the  custodian)  are  full 
of   hieroglyphic   inscriptions,    the   oldest  religious  Egyptian  text  known. 

Beyond  the  Step  Pyramid,  in  the  direction  ofMariette's  House, 

we  suddenly  obtain  a  striking  view  of  the  pyramids  of  Abuslr  and 
Gizeh  to  the  N. ;  in  the  palm-shaded  Nile  valley,  bordered  by  the 
yellowish-grey  desert,  we  observe  in  the  distance  the  mosque  of 
.Mohammed  Ali  (p.  454). 

When  the  road  forks  we  ride  to  the  left  to  the  Mast  aba  of 
Ptahhotej),  the  tomb  of  the  highest  state-official  of  a  king  of  the 
5th  Dynasty  (about  2700-2550  B.C.).  The  interesting,  delicately 
executed  wall-reliefs,  like  those  of  the  almost  contemporaneous 
mastaba  of  Ti  (p.  466),  are  among  the  finest  of  the  Ancient  Empire 
but  are  imperfectly  lighted.  The  richest  wall-decoration  is  in  the 
sacrificial  chamber  (funeral  repast,  rural  scenes,  etc.). 

"We  now  repair  to  Marie  tie's  House,  a  little  to  the  N.,  where 
the  famous  Egyptologist  lived  during  the  excavations.  We  res!  and 
take  luncheon  on  the  terrace  here.  (Custodians  21/2-5  pias. ;  Arabian 
coffee  provided  if  desired.) 

A  few  min.  to  the  W.  of  Mariette's  house  is  the  * Serapeum, 
with  the  underground  rock-tombs  of  the  sacred  bulls  of  the  god  Ptah. 

Apis,  the  sacred  bull,  had  a  temple  of  his  own  at  Memphis,  and  after 
death  was  buried  with  great  pomp.  lie  represented  man  in  a  future  state 
as  identified  with  the  god  Osiris,  and  his  tomb  was  a  favourite  goal  of  pil- 
grims. Hermits  too  sometimes  lived  in  the  narrow  cells  of  the  tomb.  After 
Ptolemy  I.  had  inl  '  cult  of  Serapis  (p.  435)  into  Egypt,   this 

new  god  was  identified  with  Osiris-Apis  (Egyp.  Oser-hape,  Gr.  Osorapis). 

The  temple  over  the  Apis  tombs  has  disappeared,  and  so  too  has  a 
second   temple  erected   here   by  Nektanehos  (358-311  B.C.))   to  which  the 


466     Route  it.-  CAIRO. 

great  sphinx  avenue  ascended  from  the  plain  below.  The  main  passage 
to  the  tombs,  which  was  constructed  by  Psammetichos  I.  (663-609),  is 
now  alone  accessible.  In  the  tomb-chambers  are  still  preserved  24  of  the 
huge  sarcophagi  in  which  the  mummies  of  the  Apis  bulls  reposed. 

The  famous  *Mastaba  of  Ti,  to  the  N.E.  of  Mariette's  house, 
is  still  deeply  imbedded  in  the  sand.  This  was  the  tomb  of  the 
royal  architect  of  king  Nuserre  (5th  Dyn.).  The  most  beautiful  of 
the  reliefs  are  in  the  tomb-chamber,  which  is  entered  from  the  road 
through  two  vestibules  and  two  passages.  We  note  particularly,  on 
the  E.  wall,  Harvest  and  Boat-building;  on  the  S.  wall,  Sacrifices 
to  the  dead;  on  the  N.  wall,  *Scenes  from  life  in  the  Delta  marshes. 

Those  who  do  not  intend  to  ride  on  to  Gizeh  may,  on  their  way 
back,  glance  at  the  Tomb  of  Merekura,  of  the  early  6th  Dynasty, 
and  at  the  Street  of  Tombs  near  it,  of  like  date  (including  the  Tomb 
of  Enkhme-Hor,  also  called  the  'Tomb  of  the  Physicians',  etc.) 

For  full  details,  see  Baedeker's  Egypt. 


72.    From    Alexandria   or   Port   Said   to 
Beirut  (Smyrna,   Constantinople)  via  Jaffa. 

464  (or  261)  M.  Steamers  (mostly  small  and  old;  agents  at  Alexandria, 
see  p.  432;  at  Port  Said,  p.  437;  at  Jaffa,  p.  467;  at  Beirut,  pp.  481,  482). 
1.  Messayeries  Maritimes,  S.  Mediterranean  line  (coming  from  Marseilles, 
and  touching  at  Alexandria):  from  Port  Said  on  Frid.  (returning  Mon.  or 
Tues.)  to  Beirut,  alternately  direct  in  1  day  and  via  Jaffa  in  2  days;  fare 
from  Port  Said  to  Jaffa  35  or  25  fr.,  to  Beirut  65  or  55  fr.  — 2.  Austrian 
Lloyd  (Trieste  and  Syria  line:  comp.  R.  68;  touching  at  Alexandria): 
from  Port  Said  on  Mon.  aft.  via  Jaffa  and  Haifa  to  Beirut  in  ca.  2>/2  days 
(returning  Thurs.  night) ;  fare  from  Port  Said  to  Jaffa  33  or  22  K,  to 
Beirut  75  or  52  K.  —  3.  Khedivial  Mail  Co.  (coming  from  Alexandria),  from 
Port  Said  on  Sun.  aft.  via.  Jaffa  and  Haifa  in  ca.  IV2  days  to  Beirut  (going 
on,  every  alternate  week,  to  Alexandretta  and  Constantinople),  returning 
from  Beirut  Sun.  foren. ;  fare  from  Port  Said  to  Jaffa  £  1  E  35  pias.  or 
£El,  to  Beirut  £2E  60  pias.  or  <£E  2.-4.  Russian  Steam  Navigation 
&  Trading  Co.  (Syria  and  Egypt  circular  line;  coming  from  Alexandria), 
from  Port  Said  on  Mon.  or  Sat.  nights  via.  Jaffa  and  Haifa  in  ca.  2  days 
to  Beirut  (going  on  to  Smyrna  and  Constantinople),  returning  from  Beirut 
Tues.  or  Wed.  aft.;  fare  60  or  44  fr.  (to  Jaffa  36  or  26  fr.).  — 5.  German 
Levant  Line,  cargo-steamers  from  Alexandria  twice  monthly  via.  Jaffa 
and  Haifa  to  Beirut  (comp.  R.  65).  —  6.  Societd  Nazionale  (Lines  VII, 
Vllbis ;  coming  from  Alexandria),  from  Port  Said  each  monthly  via  Jaffa 
to  Beirut  in  ca.  2  days. 

As  to  passports,  see  p.  491 ;  Turkish  money,  p.  536. 

Alexandria,  see  p.  431 ;  Port  Said,  see  p.  436.  The  flat  Egyp- 
tian coast  disappears  soon  after  we  leave  Port  Said. 

Nearing  Jaffa  we  survey  the  hill-country  of  Judaea,  with  the 
heights  around  Jerusalem  and  (to  the  N.E.)  the  mountains  of  Sa- 
maria. The  broad  coast-plain,  flanked  with  low  dunes,  is  the  an- 
cient Peleshet,  the  'plain',  stretching  from  the  Egyptian  frontier  to 
Mt.  Carmel  (p.  468),  once  inhabited  by  the  Philistines  (Pelishtim). 


JAFFA.  72.  Route.     467 

Jaffa.  —  Arrival.  The  steamers  anchor  in  the  open  roads.  In  winter, 
when  a  westerly  gale  is  blowing,  it  is  often  impossible  to  land.  Passengers 
must  then  go  on  to  Haifa  (p.  46S)  or  to  Beirut  (p.  481).  The  arrangements 
for  landing  are  unsatisfactory;  in  rough  weather  as  much  as  20  fr.  is 
demanded.  It  is  best  to  land  in  one  of  the  boats  belonging  to  the  hotels 
or  tourist-agents  (see  below;  6-7  fr.  to  stationer  to  hotel,  iucl.  baggage, 
on  which  a  watchful  eye  should  be  kept),  and  to  decline  the  services  of 
other  boatmen  or  of  porters  and  dragomans  (Arabic  terjuman).  The  pass- 
port office  and  custom-house  are  in  the  S.  angle  of  the  harbour.  Customs 
examination,  see  p.  537. 

Railway  Station  to  theN.E.  of  the  town,  l'/j  M.  from  the  harbour. 

Hotels  (charges  should  be  ascertained  at  once;  advisable  to  order 
rooms  beforehand  in  the  height  of  the  season).  Jerusalem  Hotel  and  Hot. 
du  Pare,  both  in  the  German  colony,  pens.  IS'/bi  ip  the  quiet  season  8  fr. ; 
Hut.  Kaminitz,  in  Rue  Boustrous,  leading  to  the  German  colony ;  Frank, 
in  the  German  colony,  with  restaurant. 

Tourist  Agents.  TJios.  Cook  &  Son,  opposite  the  Jerusalem  Hotel; 
Clark,  in  the  Hot.  du  Pare;  Dr.  Benzinger,  at  Frank's  Hotel;  Hamburg- 
American  Line,  Agence  Lubin,  both  at  the  harbour.  —  Steamboat  Offices 
all  on  the  quay,  to  the  N.E.  of  the  custom-house. 

Post  Offices.  Turkish  in  Rue  Boustrous  (also  International  Tele- 
graph); German  aud  Austrian- Hungarian,  at  theN.E.  end  of  the  quay; 
French,  farther  to  the  N.E. ;  Russian,  on  the  quay,  opposite  the  Quarantine 
Station. 

Consuls.  British  Vice-Consul,  J.  Falanga.  —  United  States  Consular 
Agent,  J.   Hardegg. 

Physicians.  Dr.  J.  3L  Keith  (medical  superintendent  of  the  English 
Hospital);  Dr.  Lin  (French);  Dr.  Lorch,  Dr.  Saad  (both  German). 

Banks.  Anglo- Palestine  Co.,  Banque  Ottomane,  both  in  the  Gaza 
Road;  German  i'ulaestina-Bank,  Credit  Lyonnais,  both  on  the  quay. 

English  Church  Services,  on  Sun.  at  9.30  a.m.  and  3.30  p.m. 

Carriages.  Drive  1  beshlik  (3'/2  pias.);  »/s  day  10,  day  20  fr. ;  to 
Jerusalem  (7-8  hrs.)  in  the  season  50-60  fr.  (single  seat  10-15  fr.),  to 
Haifa  (l'/r2  days),  100-140  fr.,  according  to  weather. 

Jaffa,  Arabic  Ydfd,  Gr.  Joppa  (pop.  47,000,  viz.  about 
30,000  Moslems,  10,000  Christians,  and  7000  Jews),  originally  a 
Phoenician  colony  in  the  land  of  the  Philistines,  is  mentioned  as 
early  as  the  reigu  of  Solomon  (p.  472)  as  the  seaport  of  Jerusalem. 
The  Maccabees  (p. 472)  brought  it  under  Jewish  domination.  Dur- 
ing the  Crusades  it  was  repeatedly  wrested  from  the  Christians, 
and  in  1267  it  was  destroyed  by  the  Mameluke  sultan  Beybars.  In 
1799  the  town  was  stormed  by  the  French  under  Kleber  (p.  444). 

The  old  town  rises  on  a  rock  118  ft.  high,  behind  the  Quay, 
built  towards  the  end  of  the  17th  century.  Its  streets  are  very  dusty 
and  in  wet  weather  muddy. 

The  quay  and  its  prolongation,  the  main  arteries  of  traffic,  lead 
in  a  curve  towards  the  E.  to  the  Market  (Suk),  where  the  Semitic 
type  of  the  inhabitants  is  very  noticeable. 

Beyond  this  market  is  a  public  garden  with  a  Clock  Tower 
erected  by  the  town  of  Jaffa  to  commemorate  the  25th  year  of  the 
reign  of  the  now  deposed  Sultan  Abdul  Hamid  (1S76-1909),  and 
several  Arabian  cafes.  The  Gaza  road  leads  thence  to  the  right 
through  the  S.  suburb.  The  Jerusalem  road  leads  straight  on  through 
the  new  town  and  a  number  of  orauge-groves ;  after  12  min.  a  road 


468      lioute  72.  HAIFA.  From  Alexandria 

diverges  to  the  left  to  the  Russian  settlement,  where  wo  are  shown 
the  site  of  the  house  of  Tabillia  and  her  rock-tomb  (Acts  ix.  35). 
The  Rue  Bonstrous  leads  to  the  left  to  the  railway-station  and  the 
pleasant  houses  of  the  German  Colony,  founded  in  1868  (about 
350  inhab.,  chiefly  of  the  'Temple'  sect). 

A  second  colony  of  these  Templars  is  Sarona,  1  M.  to  the  N.E., 
behind  the  dunes,  in  the  coast-plain  of  Sharon  between  Jaffa  and  C;esarea, 
famed  ever  since  ancient  times  for  its  fertility.  The  vine  in  particular 
thrives  here  admirably. 

Beyond  Jaffa  the  Steamek  soon  passes  the  month  of  the  Nahr 
el-Anjd,  the  largest  river  in  Palestine  next  to  the  Jordan,  and  then, 
near  the  X.  boundary  of  Jndsea,  the  site  of  Apollonia  (now  Arsuf). 
Farther  on  wc  sight  the  scanty  ruins  of  Caesarea  Palaestina  (Ara- 
bic El-  Kaisarlyeh) ,  a  seaport  founded  by  Herod  the  Great,  which 
in  the  Roman  period  surpassed  Jerusalem. 

Beyond  the  Nahr  ez-Zerkd  ('blue  river',  p.  xxxiii),  the  Crocodile 
Hirer  of  Pliny,  come  the  little  town  of  Tantura,  the  Dor  of  the 
Old  Testament,  which  classical  authors  say  was  a  Phoenician  col- 
ony, and  then  Atlil,  the  Castellum  Peregrinorum  of  the  Crusaders, 
the  seat  of  the  Knights  Templar  in  1218-91,  with  its  grand  ruins. 

The  beautiful  outlines  of  *Mt.  Carmel  (1811  ft.;  Jebel  Mdr 
Elyds,  'sacred  mount  of  Elijah')  become  more  distinct.  On  the  hill- 
side is  the  Carmelite  Monastery  (558  ft.),  the  original  seat  of  the 
order,  which  extended  its  sphere  to  Europe  in  1238.  Below  it,  on 
the  evergreen  N.  slope  of  the  range,  rises  a  Lighthouse. 

Most  of  the  steamers  call  at  the  open  roads  of  Haifa  or  Khaifa 
(Hot.  Karmel  or  Krafft,  pens.  8-10  fr. ;  carr.  at  the  tourist-office  of 
Unger  &  Hermann,  at  G.  Sus's,  etc.;  Brit,  vice-cons.,  P.  Abela; 
U.  S.  cons,  agent,  Th.  Struve;  pop.  16,000),  a  rapidly  rising  com- 
mercial town,  beautifully  situated  at  the  N.  base  of  J\I.t.  Carmel  and 
on  the  S.  shore  of  the  Bay  of  Acre,  not  far  from  the  site  of  the 
Sycaminum  of  antiquity.  The  trade  is  chiefly  in  the  hands  of  the 
German  'Temple'  sect,  whose  settlement  presents  a  striking  con- 
trast to  the  prevailing  Oriental  squalor. 

A  Road  leads  from  Haifa  via  Allit  and  Tantura  (see  above),  and  then 
inland  via  the  Jewish  agricultural  colony  of  Zammarin  (Hot.  Gralf)  and 
Katun  (410  ft.)  to  N&bulus  or  Ndblics  (1870  ft.;  Hot.  Nablus,  German,) 
once  Sichem,  the  capital  of  Samaria.  After  the  war  of  67  A.D.  (p.  472) 
it  was  re-founded  by  Vespasian  as  Flavia  Neapolis.  It  is  now  a  town  of 
27,000  inhab.  (incl.  700  Christians  and  170  members  of  the  Samaritan  sect). 
Pine  view  from  ML  Gerizim  (2818  ft.;  Arab.  Jebel  et-Tor),  to  the  S.  of  the 
town.  A  new  road  leads  from  Nabulus,  past  Jacob's  Well  (St.  John,  iv.  5-30), 
via  El-Lubban  and  EL-Bireh,    to  Jerusalem  (p.  470). 

From  Haifa  via  Deuat  to  Damascus,  177  M.,  Railway.  One  train 
daily  in  10  hrs.;  fares,  1st  el.,  142'/2,  3rd  cl.  65>/2  pias.  (note  exchange  at 
rail.  stat. :  1  mejidieh  =  19  pias.;  20  fr.  =  86>/2  pias.;  £  1  =  109'/4  pias.; 
£  1  Turkish  =  96  pias.).  Most  travellers,  however,  prefer  the  following 
profoundly  interesting  route,  joining  the  train  at  Samalch  (p.  469). 

We  drive  from  Haifa  to  (24  M.)  Nazareth  (1145  ft.;  Hot.  Germania, 
pens.  8-1272  fr.),  the  home  of  Christ,  whence  the  Christians  in  the  Levant 


tn  neirut  PHCENTCTAN  COAST.  7?.  Route.     469 

are  still  called  Nazarenes  (Nasara).  Then  past  Mt.  Tabor  (1844  ft.;  Jebel 
et-Tar;  line  view),  the  traditional  scene  of  the  Transfiguration,  anil  Kafr 
.  the  Vmia  of  tbe  Bible  [St.  John,  ii),  to  (4'/a  hrs.)  Tabariya  (82  ft. 
below  sea-level;  Hot.  Tiberias  or  Grossmann,  pens.  10-12'/;;  fr. ;  pop.  7500, 
incl.  many  Polish  Jews),  the  ancient  Tiberias,  once  the  capital  of  Galilee, 
and,  after  the  destruction  of  Jerusalem  (p.  472),  the  chief  seat  of  the  Jewish 
nation  It  lies  high  up  on  the  YV.  bank  of  the  Lake  of  Gennesaret,  or  of 
Tiberias,  or  Sea  of  Galilee  (682  ft.  below  sea-level;  13  M.  long,  7'/a  M. 
broad),  through  which  Hows  the  Jordan.  During  half  of  the  year  the 
climate  in  this  profound  Syrian  valley  is  extremely  hot. 

From  Tiberias  we  row  down  the  lake  in  2  hrs.  to  the  rail,  station  of 
Samakh  (610  ft.  below  sea-level;  f)4'/._,  M.  from  Haifa).  The  train  ascends 
the  *Varmuk  Valley  to  (100  M.)  Derdt  (1735  ft.  above  sea-level;  Buffet), 
where  it  joins  the  main  Hejaz  line  to  Damascus  (p.  481;  Kadem  station). — 
For  details,  see  Baedeker's  Palestine  and.  Syria. 

Beyond  Haifa  all  the  steamers  skirt  the  coast  of  ancient  Phoe- 
nicia at  some  distance  from  lane!,  as  the  cliffs  here  endanger  naviga- 
tion, but  the  numerous  small  headlands,  bays,  and  islands  adapt 
it  admirably  for  settlement.  It  once  extended,  far  beyond  Beirut, 
to  the  river  Eleutheros,  now  Nahr  el-Kebir. 

From  afar  we  sight  the  lighthouse  and  forts  of  Akka  or  Acre, 
the  ancient  Akko  (later  Ptvlemais).  In  1104  it  became  the  naval 
station  of  the  Crusaders.  Taken  by  Saladin  in  1187  it  was  recap- 
tured by  Richard  Coenr-dc-Lion  in  1191  and  for  a  century  waa  a 
great  bulwark  of  Christianity.  Under  the  name  of  St.  Jean  cVAcre, 
it  was  the  seat  of  the  knights  of  St.  John  (p.  47.">i  after  their  ex- 
pulsion from  Jerusalem.  Far  to  the  N.E.  i  iscs  Mt.  Harmon  (p.  489). 

Beyond  the  white  Rds  en-Ndk&ra,  the  ancient  Scttla  Tyrio- 
rum,  and  Eds  el-Abyad,  the  Promontorium  Album  of  Pliny,  we 
sight  a  low  headland  on  which  lies  the  poor  little  town  of  Sur, 
with  a  ruined  church  of  the  Crusaders,  ruins  of  their  fortifications, 
and  a  lighthouse.  This  w;is  the  ancient  seaport  of  Tyre,  once  sit- 
uated on  two  islands,  but  connected  with  the  mainland  by  an  em- 
bankment built  by  Alexander  during  his  famous  siege  (332  B.C.). 

Farther  on  we  pass  the  month  of  the  Nahr  el-Litdni  (p.  483), 
here  called  Nahr  el-Kdsimiyeh,  and  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the  coast- 
region  in  front  of  Lebanon;  to  the  E.  rise  Jebel  er-Rihdn  and 
Tumdt  Nihd  (6070  ft.;  'twins  of  Xiha"),  snow-capped  in  winter, 
and  to  the  \\!v  the  distant  Jebel  Sannin  (p.  483). 

Beyond  Sarafant  (ancient  Zarpath  or  Sarepta)  opens  the 
broad  bay  of  Saida,  formerly  Sidon,  the  oldest  and,  next  to  Tyre, 
greatest  port  of  the  Phoenicians,  now  girdled  by  rich  vegetation. 

Passing  the  mouth  of  the  Nahr  cl-Auwdli  (ancient Bostrenus) 
and  the  Rds  er-Sumeileh,  the  N.  limit  of  the  bay  of  Saida,  we  come 
to  the  far-projecting  Rds  ed-Ddmur  and  the  Nahr  ed-Ddmur, 
the  ancient  Tamyras,  which  in  winter  is  one  of  the  most  copious 
rivers  in  the  Lebanon  region.  Near  Beirut  begin  the  mulberry  and 
olive  groves  and  the  vineyards  of  the  fertile  coast-plain. 

We  round  the  reddish  hills  of  Rds  Beirut  (p.  483),  with  the 
pigeons' grottoes  and  lighthouse,  and  enter  Beirut  harbonr  (p.  481), 


470 

73.  From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem. 

Sd'/g  M.  Railway.  Two  trains  daily  in  3  hrs  40min.  (Istcl.  707*  pias.; 
2nd,  inferior  to  good  Engl.  3rd,  25  pias.)-  Railway  rates  of  exchange: 
1  mejidiuh  =  20  pias. ;  20  fr.  =  94  pias.;  £.  1  =  J 24  pias. ;  <=£.'  1  Turkish  = 
108  pi  as.  (conip.  p.  536). 

Jaffa,  see  p.  467.  The  train  skirts  the  orchards  around  Jaffa 
(with  Sarona  ou  the  left)  and  turns  to  the  S.E.  through  the  plain  of 
Sharon  (p.  468),  following  the  depression  of  the  Wddi  Miser  dr  a. 
On  the  right  is  the  agricultural  colony  of  the  Alliance  Israelite. 
To  the  E.  rise  the  bluish  hills  of  ancient  Judaea. 

12  M.  Isydda,  Arabic  Ludd,  Old  Test.  Lod,  Gr.-Rom.  Dios- 
polls,  was  severed  from  Samaria  by  the  Maccabees  (p.  472)  in  145 
B.C.  and  annexed  to  Judaea. 

14  M.  Er-Ramleh  (accommodation  at  the  Franciscan  convent; 
pop.  exceeding  7000,  incl.  2500  Christians),  founded  by  the  Ornai- 
yades  (p.  485)  in  716,  was  the  Rain  via  of  the  era  of  the  Crnsadcs, 
when  it  was  even  more  important  than  Jerusalem.  The  chief  sight 
is  the  *Minarel  of  the  oldest  mosque  (Jdmi  el-Abyad,  'white 
mosque'),  famed  also  for  its  view.  It  was  erected  by  Eu-Nasir 
(p.  448)  in  1318,  in  a  style  recalling  the  Romanesque  transition 
buildings  of  the  Crusaders  (p.  474),  but  has  lost  its  original  summit. 

The  train  crosses  the  Jerusalem  road  and  runs  to  the  S.  through 
marshy  flats  to  (18  M.)  the  village  of  Ndaneh.  At  some  distance 
from  the  railway  Alar,  once  Kkron,  one  of  the  five  chief  cities  of 
the  Philistines  (p.  466),  lies  on  the  right  (W.),  and  on  the  left  (E.) 
are  the  famous  ruins  of  Tell  Jezer,  mentioned  in  the  letters  found 
at  Tell  el-Amarna  (p.  456),  originally  the  Canaanitish  (Phoenician) 
city  of  Gezer  (a  drive  of  1  hr.  from  Er-Ramleh). 

247.2  M.  Sejed.  Soon  turning  to  the  E.,  we  ascend  the  Wddi 
es-iSardr  ('valley  of  Sorek',  Judg.  xvi.4),  which  beyond  (31  M.) 
Deir  Abdn  narrows  to  a  wild  rocky  gorge. 

477.2  M.  Billir,  the  ancient  Baither  or  Bethar,  was  heroically 
defended  against  the  Romans  during  the  revolt  of  Bar  Cochba 
(p.  472).  The  train  then  ascends  in  the  Wddi  el-Werd  ('valley  of 
roses')  and  crosses  the  plain  of  El-Bulceia  to  (54'/^  M.)  Jerusalem. 


Jerusalem.  —  The  Station  (2451  ft.;  see  PI.  C,  9)  lies  »/4  M.  to  the 
S.  of  the  Jaffa  Gate;  carr.  into  the  town  2-5  fr.,  according  to  the  seasoD. 

Hotels.  *  Fast' a  Hotel  (PI.  a;  C,  4,  5),  Jaffa  Road;  Grand  Neio  Hotel 
(PI.  c;  D,  5),  New  Bazaar;  Hot.  Hughes  (PI.  d;  C.  4),  Jaffa  Road;  Olivet 
House  (PI.  e;  C,  2;;  Hot.  Kaminilz  (PI.  b;  C,  4),  Jaffa  Road.  Pension  at 
all  12-15  (out  of  season  8-10)  fr.  per  day.  Agreement  advisable.  Wine 
of  the  country  1-2,  French  wine  from  3  fr.  a  bottle. 

Hospices.  Prussian  Johanniter-  Hospiz  (PI.  g;  F,  4),  pens.  5  fr.; 
German  Catholic  Hospice  St.  Paulas  (PI.  h;  E,  2),  outside  the  Damascus 
Gate;  Austrian  (PI.  i;  F,  3),  Via  Dolorosa;  Casa  Nuova  (PI.  k;  D  4,  5), 
of  the  Franciscans;  all  good,  pens.  5-8  fr. 

Restaurants.  Deutsche  Bierhalle,  Jaffa  Road;  Lendhold  (brewery), 
in  the  German  Temple  colony. 


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JERUSALEM.  W.  Ronte.     47 1 

Post  Offices.  Turkish  (PL  C,  5s  with  the  International  Telegraph), 
outside  the  Jaffa  Gate;  French  (Pi.  C,  5),  adjoining  it;  German 
(PI.  D,  5),  etc. 

Tourist  Offices.  Thos.  Cook  <£  Son,  inside  Jaffa  Gate;  Clark,  Ham- 
burg-American Line,  Dr.  Benzinger  (North  German  Lloyd),  N.  Tadros, 
all  in  .Jaffa  Itoad. 

Carriages  at  the  Jaffa  Gate.  Drive  '/«,  hour  '/»  rnejidieh.  Excur- 
sions are  host  arranged  for  by  tourist-agent  or  landlord  of  hotel.  So  also 
LIorsks,  half-day  5,  whole  day  8  f r. ;  donkey  per  day  4-5,  half-day  2-3  fr. 

Consulates.'  British  (PI.  5;  A,  1),  //.  E.  Scituw.  —  United  States  (PI.  18; 
E,  5):  consul,    IT.  Coffin. 

Hakks.  Anglo- Palestine  Co.  (PL  1;  E,  (!),  opposite  the  citadel;  Credit 
Lyonnais  (PL  2;  O,  5)  and  Banque  Ottomane  (PL  D,  5),  Jaffa  Road;  Ger- 
mcm  Palaestina-Bank  (PI.  8;  D,  5),  inside  Jaffa  Gate. 

Photographs.  The  hest  are  those  of  the  American  Colony,  of  Bonflls 
of  Beirut,  and  (coloured)  of  the  Photoglob  of  Zurich,  to  he  ohtained  from 
Venter  (American  Colony  Store),  Bovlus  RTeo,  Sfeir,  and  Shammas,  all  in 
lh8  Grand  New  ITotel ;  A.  Attallah,  at  the  13ab  el-Jedid;  Salman  &  Co., 
.latVa  Koad.  —  Other  favourite  Souvenirs  of  Jerusalem  are  carved  olive-wood 
;<ml  mother-of-pearl  ohjects,  in  which  there  is  a  hrisk  trade;  the  largest 
is  to  he  found  in  the  square  in  front  of  St.  Sepulchre's,  but  half 
at  most  of  the  price  asked  should  be  offered;  higher  class  work  is  best 
purchased  at  the  shops  mentioned  above. 

Churches,  convents,  missions,  schools,  etc.  abound  (see  Baedeker's 
Palestine  &  Syria).  Among  them  may  be  mentioned  the  Collegiate  Church 
of  St.  George,  (with  the  Bishop's  House;  services  at  9  a.m.  and  4.30  p.m.), 
to  the  N.  of  the  town;  Christ  Church  (PL  E,  6;  services  at  10  a.m.  and 
i  p.m.);   St.  Paul's  (PL  C,  1,  2;    Arabic  services  at  9.30  a.m.  and  3  p.m.). 

Two  Davs  (when  time  is  limited).  1st.  Forenoon,  Bit.  of  Olives  (p.  479), 
h'irlron  and  Hinnom  Valleys  (p.  480);  afternoon,  Church  of  the  Holy  Se- 
pulchre  (p.  474),  Miiristrin  (j>.  475),  and  '/Aon  (p.  473). — 2nd.  Forenoon, 
flaram  esh-Sherif  (p.  476);  afternoon,  excursion  to  Bethlehem  (p.  480). 

The  Church  of  the  Iloly  Sepulchre  is  open  before  11.80  and  after  3; 
a  forenoon  visit  may  usually  be  prolonged  by  giving  a  fee  to  the  Moslem 
custodian  (1  fr.). 

Leave  to  visit  the  Hararo  esh-Sherif  must  be  obtained  from  the  Tur- 
kish authorities  through  the  visitor's  consulate  (see  ahove).  He  is  then 
escorted  by  a  Turkish  soldier  and  usually  by  a  cavass  of  the  consulate 
also.  The  cavass  receives  8-10  fr.,  or  4-5  fr.  from  each  member  of  a  party, 
which  covers  all  fees  and  outlays.  On  Fridays  and  during  the  Moslem 
festival  of  Nebi-Mfisa  (Wed.  of  Holy  Week  to  Easter  Mon.)  the  mosque 
is  closed  to  strangers. 

Key  to  Plan  of  Jerusalem.  Banks,  see  above.  —  Bazaars,  Old  (Silks) 
and  New,  F5;  E  5.  —  Churches.  Christ  Church  (English),  Efi;  Church  of 
the  Redeemer  (German  Prot.),  E5;  Holy  Sepulchre,  E4;  St.  Anne's,  H3; 
St.  GcoTge's  (English),  with  Bishop's  House,  a  little  to  the  N.  of  E  1  ; 
St.  Mary's,  1(3;  St.  Mary  Magdalen's,  K4;  St.  Paul's  (Aral). -Prot.),  Cl,  2. 
—  Consulates,  see  above.  —  Hi/masteries.  Abraham's  (Greek),  PL  19,  E4,5; 
Abvssinian,  PL  14,  E4;  Armenian  Catholic,  PL  15,  F4;  Coptic,  PL  10,  E  4; 
Gethsemane,  PL  20,  E5;  Greek  (Great),  DE4,  5;  Panagia  (Greek),  PL  21, 
E);  Panagia  Melnena  (Gr.),  PL  22,  E5;  St.  Basil  (Gr.),  PL  23,  Di;  St. 
Caralombos  (Gr.),  PL  24,  I'M;  St.  Catharine  (Gr.),  PL  25,  E4;  St.  Deme- 
trius (Gr.).  PL  26,  D5;  St.  George's  (Coptic),  PL  17,  1)5;  St.  George's 
(Greek),  PL  27  &  28,  D4  &  E7;  St.  John  the  Baptist's  (Gr.),  PL  29, 
E5;  St.  John  Eutbvmius  (Gr.),  PL  30,  E4;  St.  Michael's  (Gr.),  PL  31, 
Dl;  St.  Nicholas  (Or.),  PL  32,  D4;  St.  Salvator's  (Latin),  PL  36,  D4; 
St.  Stephen's  (Dominican),  El;  St.  Theodore's  (Greek),  PI.  33,  D  4.— 
Mosques.  El-Aksi,  115,  0;  Kubbet  es-Sakhra  (Dome  of  the  Rock),  H4,  5; 
Sidni  Omar,  PL  37,  E  5.—  Synagogues  (indicated  by  the  letter  'S'  on  the 
Plan),  many,  E,  F5-7. 


472     Route  73.  JERUSALEM.  Situation. 

Jerusalem  (Hebrew  Yerushalaylm,  Gr.  and  Lat.  Hierosolyma, 
Arabic  El-Kuds)  lies  in  3l°46'  N.  lat.  and  35°13'  E.  long.,  on  an 
arid  limestone  plateau  (cold  in  winter)  which  rises  in  the  form 
of  a  peninsula  from  the  Kidron  Valley  ( Wadi  Silti  Marynm, 
'Mary's  Valley '),  on  the  E.,  and  from  the  Valley  of  Ilinnom  (  Wddi 
cr-Babdbi),  on  the  S.  side.  The  narrow  E.  height  (2441  ft.),  the 
ancient  Temple  Hill,  is  separated  from  the  W.  hill,  that  of  the  old 
Upper  Town  (2550  ft.),  by  a  depression,  now  very  slight,  called 
Tyropoeon  ('dung  valley')  by  Josephus,  the  Jewish  historian.  Still 
higher  is  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  present  town  (2591  ft.). 

The  population  is  estimated  at  70,000,  of  whom  45,000  are  Jews, 
living  mostly  on  alms  bestowed  by  the  charitable  institutions  of  their 
European  co-religionists;  of  the  15,000  Christians  nearly  half  are 
Syrians  of  the  Greek  orthodox  faith;  the  Moslems  number  about 
10,000.  In  spring,  especially  at  the  time  of  the  Greek  Easter,  the 
town  is  flooded  with  pilgrims,  the  majority  being  Russians.  As  a 
centre  of  the  three  chief  religions  of  the  world,  Jerusalem  has  quite 
a  religious  atmosphere  and  is  historically  a  city  of  overwhelming 
interest,  but  its  tranquillity  is  sadly  marred  by  the  dissensions 
and  jealousies  of  its  numerous  religious  communities.  Careful  and 
patient  study  alone  will  reveal  to  the  traveller  something  of  the 
departed  glory  of  the  venerable  capital  of  the  Jewish  empire. 

History.  From  the  tablets  of  Tell  el-Amarna  (p.  456)  it  appears  that 
Umsalim  was  the  capital  of  a  small  principality  dependent  on  Egypt 
about  1100  B.C.  When  the  Israelites  under  David  conquered  the  town 
in  the  11th  cent.  (2  Sam.  v.  6-10)  it  was  the  chief  stronghold  of  the  Je- 
busites,  a  Canaanitish  tribe.  David  made  it  his  residence  and  built  a 
castle  known  as  the  City  of  David.  His  son  Solomon,  with  the  aid  of 
Phoenician  artificers,  afterwards  built  his  palace  and  the  Temple  of  Jeho- 
vah on  Mt.  Zion  (the  E.  hill).  On  the  bi-partition  of  the  kingdom  after 
his  death  Jerusalem  became  the  capital  of  Judah.  The  kingdom  of  Israel 
in  N.  Palestine  was  subjugated  by  the  Assyrians  in  722  B.C.,  and  in  597 
Jerusalem,  under  Jehoiachin,  shared  a  like  fate  at  the  hands  of  Nebuchad- 
nezzar of  Babylon.  In  586  the  revolt  under  Zedekiah  led  to  the  -destruc- 
tion of  the  city.  On  the  return  of  the  Jews  from  captivity  in  538  the  city 
and  Temple  were  gradually  rebuilt,  and  the  new  town-wall  was  completed 
in  444.  On  the  death  of  Alexander  the  Great  in  323  Jerusalem  tell  into  the 
hands  of  the  Ptolemies  (p.  433)  and  often  suffered  severely  from  conflicts  with 
the  Diadochi  of  Syria.  The  last  royal  dynasty,  that  of  the  Maccabees 
(167-63),  was  overthrown  by  the  Romans  when  Pompey  conquered  the  city. 
As  the  residence  of  Herod  the  Great  (37-4  B.C.,  according  to  the  accepted 
chronology),  in  the  last  year  of  whose  reign  Christ  was  born,  Jerusalem 
prospered  anew.  A  new  palace  in  the  Roman  style  was  erected  at  the 
N.W.  angle  of  the  upper  town,  and  the  rebuilding  of  the  Temple  was 
begun.  But  a  revolt  of  the  Zealots,  or  Jewish  national  party,  led  to 
embittered  struggles  with  the  Romans  in  67  A.D.,  with  the  result  that 
Jerusalem  was  stormed  by  Titus  in  70,  the  Temple  burned  down,  and 
the  city  as  completely  destroyed  as  Carthage  had  once  been.  Another 
rising  of  the  Jews  under  Trajan  (117)  extended  as  far  as  the  Cyrenaica 
(comp.  p.  413)  in  N.  Africa.  On  the  ruins  of  the  city,  on  a  site  almost 
coinciding  with  that  enclosed  by  the  present  city-walls,  Emp.  Hadrian 
erected  the  new  pagan  colony  of  JElia  Capitol  ina,  from  which,  after  the 
last  revolt,  that  of  Bar  Coehba  (132-5),  Jews  were  excluded. 

The  modern  history  of  Christian  Jerusalem  begins  with  the  building 


History.  JERUSALEM.  73.  Route.     473 

of  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  hy  Emp.  Constantino  (about  326-3fi). 
Pilgrims  soon  flocked  to  the  holy  places,  anil  in  f>7u  there  were  already 
hospices  with  8000  beds  for  their  use.  In  014  the  Persians  under  Chos- 
roes  II.  (p.  485)  sacked  the  city,  but  when  it  was  captured  by  caliph  Omar 
in  Ci.'iT  it  was  treated  with  clemency,  being  regarded  as  a  sacred  place  by 
Moslems  a*  well  as  by  Christians,  lu  691  began  the  erection  of  the  famous 
Dome  of  the  Hock,  on  the  sacred  rock  (p.  477),  the  site  of  the  ancient 
Jewish  Temple,  the  greatest  sanctuary  of  Islam  after  the  Kaaba  of  Mecca. 
Jerusalem  fell  into  the  bands  of  the  Egyptian  Fntimites  in  9ti9,  but  was 
wrested  from  tli em  by  the  Seljuks  in  iu"7.  It  was  chiefly  the  maltreat- 
ment of  the  Christian  pilgrims  by  the  Seljuks  that  gave  rise  to  the  First 
Crusade.  In  1099  the  Crusaders  conquered  Jerusalem,  which  under  Godfrey 
de  liouillon  (d.  1100)  became  the  capital  of  the  Christian  kingdom  of  Jeru- 
salem. The  city  was  retaken  by  Saladin  in  11S7,  but  in  1229  was  voluntarily 
ceded  by  Melik  el-Kauiil  to  Emp.  Frederick  II.  Lastly,  in  1244,  it  was 
stormed  by  the  Kharezmians,  and  has  been  under  Moslem  rule  ever  since. 
Looks.  Among  the  best  of  the  numerous  works  on  Jerusalem  are 
Barclay's  'City  of  the  Great  King'.  Besant  &  Palmer's  'Jerusalem,  the 
City  of  Herod  and  Saladin'  (5th  ed.,  London,  190S),  Warren's  'Under- 
ground Jerusalem'  (London,  187B),  and  Wilson  &  Warren's  'Recovery  of 
Jerusalem'  (London,  1S71).  ]\Iiss  A.  Goodrich-Freer's  'Inner  Jerusalem' 
(1904),  Laurence  Button's  'Literary  Landmarks  of  Jerusalem',  and  C.  R. 
Oonder'8  'The  City  of  Jerusalem'  (Loudon,  1909)  also  may  be  mentioned. 

The  *Old  Town  is  enclosed  by  ;i  *\Vall  of  the  13-14th  cent., 
restored  by  Suleiman  the  Great  (p.  542)  in  1537-41;  it  is  40  ft. 
high  and  about  2'/2  M.  long.  The  two  main  streets  lead  to  the  W. 
I  nun  the  Jaffa  Gate  (PL  D,  5,  6;  Arabic  Bab  el-Khalil),  and  N. 
from  the  handsome  Damascus  Gate  (PI.  D,  5,  6;  Bab  el-Anr&d) 
respectively.  Tiny  divide  the  town  into  four  quarters,  to  the  N.W. 
the  Greek-Frank,  S.W.  the  Armenian,  S.E.  the  Jewish,  and  N.E.  the 
Moslem.  The  streets  are  crooked,  often  vaulted  over,  and,  in  the 
Jewish  quarter  especially,  very  dirty.  All  the  houses  have  rain- 
water cisterns,  besides  which  there  are  several  reservoirs. 

The  Jaffa  Suburb,  situated  to  the  N.W.,  is  the  most  important, 
in  style  the  most  European.  It  is  the  chief  seat  of  the  European  or 
'Frank'  inhabitants  and  contains  the  consulates,  several  churches, 
and  the  extensive  Russian  Buildings  (PI.  A-C,  2,  3).  —  Outside  the 
Gate  of  Zion  (PI.  E,  7,  8;  Bab  en-Nebi  Daud,  'gate  of  the  prophet 
David'),  but  originally  within  the  town-walls,  lies  the  so-called 
Zion  Suburb.  It  contains  the  Christian  cemeteries,  the  German 
Benedictine  monastery  Dormitio  Sanctae  Mariae  (PL  E,  8;  'death- 
Bleep  of  Mary'),  with  the  new  Church  of  St.  Mary,  and  the  now  Mo- 
hammedan buildings  of  En-Nebi  Daud  (PI.  E,  8;  with  'David's 
Tomb'  and  the  'Room  of  the  Last  Supper').  Near  the  railway-station 
(p.  470)  is  the  substantial  German  Temple  Colony  (comp.  p.  468). 

\\  c  begin  our  visit  to  the  old  town  at  the  Jaffa  Gate, a  busy  cen- 
tre of  traffic,  to  which  the  road  from  the  station  leads  (p.  480).  To 
tin  S.E.  <>f  the  gate,  and  partly  on  the  site  of  Herod's  palace,  rises 
the  citadel El-Kala  (PL  D,  6;  14th  and  16th  cent.) ;  the  N.E.  tower 
probably  corresponds  to  the  Phasael  Tower  of  the  time  of  Herod. 

David  Stkf.et,  one  of  the  chief  business  streets,  under  different 


474     Route  73.  JERUSALEM.     TToly  Sepulchre  Clmrdi. 

names  (Sueikat  Allan,  Haret  cl-Bizar,  and  Tarik  Bab  es-Silscleh; 
PI.  D-G,  5),  connects  the  Jaffa  Gate  with  the  Silscleh  Gate  of  the 
Haram  esli-Sherif  (p.  476).  On  the  left,  opposite  the  citadel,  is  the 
well-stocked  New  Bazaar  (PI.  D,  5). 

At  St.  John's  Monastery  (PI.  29;  E,  5),  the  Greek  pilgrims' 
hospice  at  the  S."\V.  angle  of  the  Mftristan  (p.  475),  we  first  turn 
to  the  left  into  the  Haret  en-Nasara  (Pl.E,  5,  4;  Christians' Street). 
On  the  left  is  the  very  ancient  Patriarch's  Pool  (Birket  Hammam 
el-Batrak;  PI.  E,  5),  assigned  by  tradition  to  king  Hezekiah  (about 
700  B.C.);  on  the  right  is  the  Patriarch's  Path.  Opposite  the 
Great  Greek  Monastery  (Deir  er-Rfim  el-Kebir;  PI.  J),  E,  4,  5), 
is,  on  the  right,  the  entrance  to  the  — 

*Ckurch  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  (PI.  E,  4 ;  adm.,  see  p.  471), 
whose  principal  dome,  crowned  with  a  gilded  cross,  is  everywhere 
conspicnons.  This,  especially  at  Easter,  is  the  great  goal  of  the 
pilgrims.  The  discovery  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  which  Ensebins, 
Bishop  of  Ca3sarea,  the  father  of  church  history  (314-40),  tells  us 
was  made  by  Constantine,  induced  that  emperor  to  build  a  round 
church  here,  the  so-called  Anastasis  (church  of  the  resurrection), 
and  a  five-aisled  basilica,  dedicated  to  the  sign  of  the  Cross  (Mar- 
tyrion).  These  churches  having  been  burned  down  by  the  Persians 
(p.  473),  Abbot  Modestns,  under  Emp.  Hcraclius,  began  to  bnild, 
in  629,  a  new  church  of  the  resurrection,  the  prototype  of  the  Dome 
of  the  Rock  (p.  477),  a  new  church  of  the  Cross,  and  a  small  Calvary 
church  on  the  supposed  site  of  the  Crucifixion  (Golgotha).  A  fourth 
church,  that  of  St.  Mary,  is  said  to  have  existed  here  in  670.  Be- 
tween 1140  and  1149,  the  period  of  the  Second  Crusade,  the  Crusaders 
caused  a  great  new  church  to  be  built  by  the  architect  Jourdain, 
in  the  Romanesque  transition  style,  under  Arabian  influence,  an 
edifice  intended  to  embrace  almost  all  the  holy  places.  On  the  E. 
side  of  the  new  double  church  a  chapel  was  dedicated  to  St.  Helena 
(d.  about  326),  the  mother  of  Constantine,  who,  according  to  later 
historians,  once  made  a  pilgrimage  to  the  holy  places  and  discovered 
the  true  Cross  near  the  Sepulchre.  On  the  S.  side  of  the  double 
church  a  Gothic  clock-tower,  originally  detached,  was  erected  in 
1160-80.  After  the  destructions  of  1187  and  1244  (see  p.  473), 
we  hear  of  a  handsome  new  church  existing  here  in  1310.  At  length 
in  1719  a  great  part  of  the  church  was  rebuilt,  and  at  the  joint 
cost  of  the  Greeks  and  the  Armenians,  again  in  1810  by  the  archi- 
tect Komnenos  Kalfa.  Since  then  the  Greek  cathedral,  the  dome- 
roofed  'Catholicon',  has  occupied  the  nave  of  what  was  once  the 
Crusaders'  basilica.  Among  the  many  additions  the  chapel  of  the 
Apparition  (p.  475)  is  one  of  the  oldest  (14th  cent.). 

In  the  N.W.  coiner  of  the  Quadrangle,  or  outer  court,  over  the 
Chapel  of  the  Forty  Martyrs,  rises  the  Bell  Tower,  the  upper  part  of  which 
has  been  destroyed.  The  Facade,  dating  from  the  era  of  the  Crusades, 
has  fine  reliefs  of  the  French  school  over  the  portals. 


ttttrist&n.  JERUSALEM.  73.  Route.     475 

A  vestibule,  where  the  custodians  (p.  471)  sit,  leads  to  the  Stone  of 
Unction  (John  xix.  38-40),  last  renewed  in  1808. 

The  great  Rotunda  of  the  Sepulchre  still  has  the  foundation  pillars, 
the  massive  outer  wall  of  the  W.  semicircle,  and  the  three  apses  of  the 
Crusaders'  church.  The  round  central  structure  embraces  the  Chapel  of 
the  Sepulchre  and  the  Angels'  Chapel.  Adjoining  the  Sepulchre  is  the 
11th  station  of  the  Via  Dolorosa  (see  below). 

From  the  N.E.  side  of  the  ambulatory  an  ante-room  leads  to  the 
Chapel  of  the  Appaiution,  the  chief  Latin  (Rom.  Cath.)  sanctuary,  on 
the  spot  where  Christ  is  said  to  have  appeared  to  his  mother.  In  a  niche 
is  shown  a  fragment  of  the  'Column  ot  Scourging'. 

The  Nave,  which  we  next  visit,  has  suffered  greatly  from  the  intro- 
duction of  the  Catholicon.  The  pointed  windows,  the  clustered  pillars, 
and  the  groined  vaulting  still  bear  traces  of  their  origin  in  the  Crusaders' 
era.  The  southmost  of  the  three  chapels  in  the  apse,  in  the  outer  wall 
of  the  choir  ambulatory,  contains  the  'Column  of  the  Derision*. 

To  the  left  of  this  chapel  a  flight  of  29  steps  descends  to  St.  Hele- 
na's Chapel,  belonging  to  the  Armenians,  on  the  site  of  Conslantine's 
basilica,  with  foundations  of  the  period  of  Modcstus;  13  more  steps  de- 
scend thence  to  the  Chapel  of  the  Finding  of  the  Cross. 

We  now  return  to  the  ambulatory  and  ascend  from  it,  to  the  left 
(S.)i  to  the  higher-lying  Golgotha  Chapels,  the  10-13th  stations  on  the 
Via  Dolorosa  (see  below). 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  quadrangle,  in  front  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre 
Church,  lies  the  Muristan  (PI.  E,  F,  5),  au  open  space  of  170  by 
150  yds.,  which  contained,  from  the  days  of  Charlemagne  onwards, 
the  hostels  and  hospitals  of  the  European  pilgrims  and,  from  1140. 
the  grand  buildings  of  the  Knights  of  St.  John.  Saladin  (p.  443) 
granted  it  as  a  charitable  endowment  (wakf)  to  the  Dome  of  the 
Rock  (p.  477),  but  allowed  the  old  hostels  to  remain.  The  larger  W. 
half,  with  modern  shops,  now  belongs  to  the  Greek  patriarchate ;  the 
E.  half  was  presented  by  the  sultan  to  Prussia.  At  the  N.E.  corner, 
next  to  the  street  called  Haret  ed-Dabbaiin,  is  the  German  Prot. 
Church  of  the  Redeemer  (PL  E,  5). 

The  Muristan  is  bounded  on  the  E.  by  the  now  unimportant 
Old  Bazaar,  or  snk,  the  three  parallel  streets  of  which  form  part  of 
the  great  thoroughfare  between  the  Damascus  and  Zion  gates  (p. 473). 
The  middle  street,  the  Snk  el-Attarin  (p.  335),  is  continued  to  the 
N.  by  the  Khan  ez-Zeit  (PL  P,  4),  from  which  an  alley  on  the  left 
leads  to  the  Abyssinian  and  Coptic  Monasteries. 

At  the  Coptic  Monastery  is  the  9th  station  on  the  Via  Dolo- 
rosa, the  'route  of  suffering',  mentioned  for  the  first  time  in  the 
lGtli  cent.,  on  which  Christ  is  said  to  have  borne  the  Cross  from 
Pilate's  house  to  Golgotha.  The  last  five  stations  are  within  the 
Holy  Sepulchre  Church  (see  above).  The  other'stations  lie  between 
the  Greek  Monastery  of  St.  Caralombos  (PL  24,  EF,  4;  8th  station) 
and  the  Barracks  (PL  Gr,  3;  1st  station)  in  the  Tank  Bab  Sitti 
Maryam  (street  of  the  Virgin  Mary's  gate). 

This  street  leads  to  the  E.  to  St.  Stephen's  Gate  (PI.  H,  I,  3; 
2405  ft.),  the  only  E.  gate  of  the  city,  called  by  the  natives  Bdb 
Sitti.  Maryam,  or  Lady  Mary's  Gate,  from  its  proximity  to  the 
Virgin's  Tomb  (see  p.  480). 

Baedeker's  Mediterranean.  31 


476     Route  73.  JERUSALEM.  Haram  esh-Sherif. 

Within  the  gate  a  passage  leads  to  the  N.  to  the  fine  old  Church  of 
St.  Anne  (PI.  H,  3:  Arabic  Es-Saldktyeh),  on  the  supposed  site  of  the 
house  of  Joachim  ana  Anna,  the  parents  of  the  Virgin.  It  is  mentioned  as 
already  existing  in  the  7th  cent  ,  but  in  its  present  form  dates  chiefly  from 
the  12th.  The  crypt  hewn  in  the  rock  is  the  traditional  birthplace  of  the 
Virgin,   and  the   tombs   of  Joachim   and  Anna  also  are  now  pointed  out. 

We  now  retrace  our  steps  towards  the  W.,  and  halfway  along 
the  Via  Dolorosa  follow  the  El-Wad  street  (PI.  F,  G,  4,  5)  to  the 
left,  through  the  hollow  of  the  ancient  Tyropceon  (p.  472),  to  the 
Suk  el-Kattanin  (see  below),  near  the  entrance  to  the  Haram  esh- 
Sherif ;  or  starting  from  the  Old  Bazaar,  we  reach  the  same  point 
by  the  TarIk  Bab  es-Silseleh  (PI.  F,  G,  5). 

The  *Haram  esh-Sherif  (PI.  G-I,  4-6;  'noble  sanctuary'), 
the  ancient  site  of  the  Temple,  is  the  most  interesting  place  in 
Jerusalem.  Adm.,  see  p.  471.  The  usual  entrance  is  by  the  Bdb 
d-Kattdnin  (PI.  G,  4,  5),  the  central  W.  gate,  built  by  En-Nasir 
(p.  448)  in  1318,  behind  the  now  deserted  Sftk  el-Kattanin  (cotton- 
market). 

On  this  site  king  David  erected  an  altar  (2  Sam.  xxiv.  25),  and 
Solomon  built  his  palace  and  Temple.  Here  stood  also  the  second 
Temple,  erected  about  520-516  after  the  Babylonish  captivity,  and 
the  third  Temple,  begun  by  Herod  the  Great  (p.  472)  in  20  B.C. 
but  never  completed  on  the  grand  scale  projected.  On  the  same 
spot  Hadrian  erected  a  temple  of  Jupiter  as  the  chief  sanctuary 
of  iElia  Capitolina  (p.  472),  and  near  the  S.  wall  of  the  great 
quadrangle  Justinian  built  a  basilica  in  honour  of  the  Virgin, 
which  afterwards  became  the  mosque  of  El-Aksa.  Beyond  these 
facts  little  or  nothing  is  known  of  the  history  of  this  memorable 
site  during  the  early  centuries  of  the  Christian  era. 

Mohammed,  who  claimed  to  have  visited  this  spot,  evinced  great 
reverence  for  the  ancient  Temple,  and  before  he  had  broken  off  his 
relations  with  the  Jews  he  even  enjoined  believers  to  turn  towards 
Jerusalem  in  prayer.  About  the  year  637  caliph  Omar  converted 
the  church  of  St.  Mary  into  a  mosque,  and  the  Omaiyade  Abd  el- 
Melik  (685-705)  erected  the  famous  Dome  of  the  Rock  on  a  platform 
in  the  centre  of  the  sacred  precincts,  a  building  which  the  Crusaders 
took  to  be  Solomon's  Temple.  Adjoining  the  mosque  of  El-Aksa, 
then  called  the  Portions  or  Palatium  Salomonis,  probably  stood  the 
royal  palace  of  the  Franks  and  the  castle  of  the  Knights  Templar. 

The  huge  substructions  of  the  Temple  plateau,  the  surface  of 
which  was  much  altered  by  Saladin,  still  date  from  the  reign  of 
Herod.  The  plateau  itself  forms  an  immense  quadrangle  of  irregular 
shape  (W.  side  536,  E.  side  518,  N.  side  351,  S.  side  310  yds.  long). 
In  the  N.W.  corner,  once  perhaps  the  site  of  Baris,  the  castle'of 
the  Maccabees,  and  of  the  Roman  castle  of  Antonia,  rises  the  highest 
Minaret  of  the  Haram.  The  buildings  by  the  W.  and-N.  walls,  Koran 
schools,  dwellings,  etc.,  with  open  arcades  on  the  groundfloor,  are 


Home  of  the  Rock.  JERUSALEM.  78.  Route.     477 

unimportant.  The  great  quadrangle,  now  partly  planted  with  trees, 
is  studded  with  numerous  mastabas,  raised  platforms  with  prayer- 
niches  (mihr&bs),  .and  sebils,  or  fountains  for  the  religious  ablutions. 
Especially  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Dome  the  ground  is  honeycombed 
with  deep  Cisterns,  some  of  which  are  very  ancient. 

Entering  the  precincts  and  passing  the  pretty  Sebil  of  Kai't 
Bey  (p.  458)  we  mount  one  of  the  flights  of  steps  of  the  time  of 
Abd  el-Melik  to  the  Platform,  10  ft.  in  height. 

The  so-called  **Dome  of  the  Rock  {Kubbel  es-Sakhra; 
PI.  H,  4,  5),  usually  but  erroneously  called  Omar's  Mosque,  was 
built,  according  to  the  Arabian  historians,  by  Abd  el-Melik  for 
political  reasons,  the  Omaiyades  being  at  that  period  denied  access 
to  the  Kaaba  at  Mecca.  The  year  72  of  the  Hegira  (691-2)  is  men- 
tioned as  the  date  of  its  erection.  The  chief  restorations  in  the  middle 
ages  were  undertaken  by  the  Fatimite  Ez-Zahir  (1021-36),  who  re- 
built the  dome  in  1022,  and  by  Saladin,  to  whom  is  due  the 
superb  stucco  decoration  of  the  dome.  Most  of  the  later  additions 
were  made  by  the  Turkish  sultan  Suleiman  the  Great  (1520-66). 
The  W.  porch  alone  is  quite  modern. 

The  building,  in  the  late-Roman  and  Byzantine  style  (coinp.  p.  518),  is 
in  the  form  of  an  octagon,  50  yds.  in  diameter,  with  sides  22Va  yds.  in  length, 
and  with  two  concentric  aisles.  Above  the  inner  aisle  rises  the  boldly 
designed  *Dome  (98  ft.  high),  consisting  of  two  wooden  vaults  placed  one 
inside  the  other  and  roofed  with  plates  of  copper.  The  external  walls 
are  still  incrusted  below  with  their  old  slabs  of  marble,  while  above 
the  window-sills  the  ancient  glass  mosaics  were  replaced  in  the  time  of 
Suleiman  by  superb  Persian  porcelain-tiles  (kishani).  The  keel-arches  of 
the  windows  are  of  the  same  period. 

The  two  aisles  are  separated  by  two  series  of  supports.  Between  the 
eight  pillars  of  the  outer  octagonal  aisle,  which  are  incrusted  with  marble 
dating  from  the  time  of  Suleiman,  rise  sixteen  columns  with  late-Roman 
or  early-Byzantine  capitals,  and  the  round-arched  arcades  are  connected, 
above  the  Byzantine  imposts,  by  tie-beams  overlaid  with  copper.  The 
inner  row  of  supports,  bearing  the  dome,  consists  of  four  large  pil- 
lars and  twelve  antique  monolith  columns.  Tho  pointed  arches  of  the 
vaulting  here,  dating  from  Suleiman's  restoration,  rest  immediately  on 
the  capitals.  The  wrought-iron  screen  is  of  French  workmanship  of  the 
Crusaders'  era. 

The  glass  *Mosaics  in  the  spandrels  of  the  outer  aisle,  executed  by 
Byzantine  artificers,  all  belong  to  the  earliest  building;  those  in  the 
drum  of  the  dome  are  partly  of  the  time  of  Ez-Zahir  and  of  Saladin. 
The  stucco  decoration  of  tho  dome  was  restored  under  Mohammed  en-Nasir 
(p.  418)  in  1318,  and  again  in  1830.  The  *Windows,  dating  from  Suleiman's 
restoration,  present  a  marvellous  wealth  of  colouring. 

Enclosed  by  the  inner  aisle,  and  best  viewed  from  the  high  bench 
beside  tho  N.W.  gate  of  the  screen,  is  the  Sacred  Bock,  measuring 
I8V2  by  W-fay&B.,  ;intl  rising  -l-G'/a  **■  above  the  pavement  01  the  church. 
Under  it  is  a  cavity,  probably  once  a  cistern.  The  rock  is  supposed  to 
have  been  the  site  of  the  groat  Jewish  altar  of  burnt-offering.  The  Jews 
and  the  Moslems  believe  it  to  have  been  also  the  scene  of  Abraham's 
sacrifice.  From  this  spot  Mohammed  is  said  to  have  been  translated  to 
heaven  on  his  miraculous  steed  Burak,  while  an  angel  restrained  the  rock 
in  its  attempt  to  follow  him;  here  too,  they  believe,  will  be  erected  the 
throne  of  (lod  on  the  Day  of  Judgment 

31* 


478     Route  73.  JERUSALEM.  Metjid  el-Aksd. 

Outside  the  E.  gate  of  the  Dome  of  the  Rock,  and  probably  as 
old,  is  the  so-called  Dome  of  the  Chain  (Kubbet  es-Silseleh,  or 
Mehkemet  Ddud,  'David's  Place  of  Judgment').  This  structure 
consists  of  two  concentric  rows  of  columns,  the  outer  forming  a 
hexagon,  the  inner  an  endecagon.  The  large  prayer-recess  on  the 
S.  side,  facing  Mecca,  is  of  the  13th  century.  The  arcades,  connected 
by  tie-beams,  and  the  drum  of  the  dome  are  richly  adorned  with 
fayence  tiles  of  Suleiman's  period.  Across  the  dome,  it  is  said,  will 
be  stretched  a  chain  (silseleh)  on  the  Day  of  Judgment,  from  which 
the  awful  scales  will  be  suspended. 

We  now  descend  from  the  platform  by  the  steps  near  the  lSum- 
mer  Pulpit'  (15th  cent.),  at  the  S.E.  angle,  and  walk  past  the  round 
basin  of  El-Kds  to  the  — 

*Mesjid  el-Aksfi,  (PI.  H,  5,  6),  the  sanctuary  'farthest'  from 
Mecca  and  one  of  the  holy  places  of  Proto-Islam,  to  which  God  is 
said  to  have  brought  Mohammed  from  Mecca  in  one  night  (Sureh 
xvii.  1).  The  mosque  without  its  additions  is  now  88  yds.  long 
and  60  yds.  wide.  Of  the  church  of  Justinian  nothing  apparently 
has  survived  except  the  columns  of  the  nave  and  two  inner  aisles. 
The  capitals  perhaps  date  from  caliph  Omar's  period  (637).  The 
broad  transept  was  probably  constructed  by  the  Abbaside  El-Mehdi 
(775-95);  the  wooden  dome  is  now  covered  with  lead  outside.  The 
transept  gave  the  edifice  the  form  of  a  T,  which  was  converted  later 
into  a  rectaugle  by  the  two  rows  of  aisles  added  on  the  E.  and  W. 
These,  in  their  present  shape,  and  the  pointed  arcades  of  the  nave 
and  inner  aisles,  connected  by  tie-beams,  belong  to  a  late  period  of 
restoration.  The  so-called  White  Mosque,  now  set  apart  for  women, 
a  long  double  corridor  to  the  W.  of  the  transept,  probably  once 
belonged  to  the  castle  of  the  Knights  Templar.  The  latest  addition 
is  the  porch  built  by  Melik  el-Muazzam  Isa  (d.  1227)  and  restored 
at  a  later  period.    Its  middle  arcades  imitate  Frank  Gothic. 

The  interior  was  once  almost  as  sumptuously  decorated  as  the  Dome 
of  the  Bock.  The  *Pulpit  (mimbar),  carved  in  wood  and  inlaid  with  ivory 
and  mother-of-pearl,  executed  by  order  of  Nureddin  (p.  4S5)  in  1169  for 
the  great  mosque  of  Aleppo,  was  presented  by  Saladin.  To  him  also  the 
mosque  owes  the  prayer-recess,  with  its  graceful  little  marble  columns,  the 
superb  mosaics  of  the  mihrab-wall,  and  the  drum  of  the  dome.  The  author 
or  at  least  restorer  of  the  decorations  of  the  dome  is  said  to  have  been 
Mohammed  en-Nasir  (p.  448).  The  windows  date  only  from  the  time  of 
Suleiman. 

In  the  S.E.  corner  of  the  Haram  area  a  staircase  descends  to  a 
small  Moslem  Oratory  with  the  'Cradle  of  Christ'  and  to  13 
vaulted  galleries,  part  of  the  old  substructure  of  the  Haram,  known 
as  Solomon's  Stables.  In  the  sixth  gallery,  counting  from  the  E., 
there  is  a  small  door  in  the  S.  wall  called  the  ' Single  Gate',  an 
old  entrance  to  the  Haram. 

The  roof  of  the  'Golden  Gate'  (PI.  H,  I,  4;  Bab  ed-Dahiriyeh), 
the  only  E.  gate  of  the  Haram,  dating  from  the  reign  of  Justi- 


Mt.  of  Olives.  JERUSALEM.  78.  Route.     479 

man  (?)  but  now  built  up,  affords  a  survey  of  the  whole  great 
quadrangle.  At  our  feet  lies  the  Kidron  valley  (p.  480),  with  its 
rock-tombs,  and  opposite  rises  the  Mt.  of  Olives  (see  below). 

Time  permitting,  we  may  now  visit  the  Wailing  Place  of  the 
Jews  (Kautal  Maarbei;  PI.  G,  5),  to  the  W.  of  the  Haram,  reached 
by  descending  (to  the  S.)  the  eastmost  side-street  of  the  Tarik  Bab 
es-Silseleh.  It  is  probable  that  the  Jews,  who  never  enter  the 
Haram  precincts  for  fear  of  desecrating  the  holy  of  holies,  were  in 
the  habit  of  repairing  hither  as  early  as  the  middle  ages  to  bewail 
the  downfall  of  Jerusalem.  The  scene  is  most  touching  on  Friday 
afternoons  (after  4  p.  m.),  when  crowds  of  mourners  flock  to  the 
place  and  litanies  are  chanted. 

The  Mount  of  Olives  (Mons  Oliveti,  Jebel  et-TUr),  running 
parallel  to  the  Temple  hill,  is  closely  associated  with  the  last  days 
of  Christ  on  earth.  It  is  visited  (best  in  the  forenoon)  either  by 
carriage  from  the  Jaffa  or  the  Damascus  Gate  (10-12  fr. ;  ascent 
1/2  hr.),  or  on  horseback  (p.  471)  or  on  foot  from  St.  Stephen's  Gate 
(p.  475).  Those  who  return  by  the  valley  of  the  Kidron  should 
order  their  carriage  to  meet  them  at  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane. 

From  the  Damascus  Gate  (p.  473)  the  road  leads  past  the  Do- 
minican Monastery  of  St.  Stephen  (on  the  right;  PI.  E,  1)  and 
then,  beyond  the  Anglican  Bishop7s  House,  past  the  so-called 
Tombs  of  the  Kings  (on  the  right).  This  large  subterranean  burial- 
ground,  with  its  tomb-chambers  and  shaft-tombs,  probably  belonged 
lu  queen  Helena  of  Adiabene  and  her  family  (1st  cent.  A.D.).  The 
road  to  Nabulus  soon  diverges  to  the  left;  ours  ascends  in  a  wide 
curve  northwards  to  the  top  of  the  Scopus  and  to  the  Mt.  of  Olives. 

On  the  N.  height  of  the  Mt.  of  Olives,  to  the  left  of  the  road, 
is  the  new  German  Augusta  Victoria  Institute  (sanatorium  and 
church). 

On  the  E.  summit  (2665  ft.)  are  the  Russian  Buildings,  a  pil- 
grims' hospice,  the  Russian  Church  of  the  Ascension,  and  a  six- 
storied  Belvedere  Tower  (214  steps).  The  *Panorama  embraces 
the  city  and  the  hills  around  Jerusalem  and  Bethlehem  (the  latter 
itself  not  visible).  Towards  the  E.  lie  the  Dead  Sea  (1293  ft.  below 
sea-level)  and  the  Jordan  valley  (Arabic  El-Ghor),  and  among  the 
bluish  Mts.  of  Moab  rises  Mt.  Nebo  (2644  ft.),  whence  Moses  beheld 
the  promised  land  before  his  death  (Deut.  xxxiv.  1-4). 

A  little  to  the  W.  of  the  Russian  Buildings  lies  the  poor  village 
Kafr  et-Tur.  Near  it  is  the  Chapel  of  the  Ascension,  built  in 
1834-5,  to  mark  the  scene  of  the  Ascension  (in  contradiction  to 
Luke  xxiv.  50,  'He  led  them  out  as  far  as  Bethany').  Of  the 
earlier  churches  here,  one  a  round  building  of  Emp.  Constantine, 
the  other  built  by  the  Crusaders,  few  traces  are  left. 

To  the  S.  of  the  village  are  the  Latin  Buildings,  including  the 
Credo  and  Paternoster  Churches  (1898) 


480     Route  73.  JERUSALEM. 

A  steep  path  descends  hence,  to  the  W.,  to  the  Garden  op 
Gethsemane  (PI.  K,  4),  now  the  property  of  the  Franciscans.  Near 
the  entrance  (E.  side)  a  rock  marks  the  spot  where  Peter,  James, 
and  John  are  said  to  have  slept  (Mark  xiv.  32  et  seq.),  and  the 
fragment  of  a  column  close  by  indicates  the  traditional  scene  of  the 
Betrayal.  (A  monk  acts  as  guide;  fee  3-6  pias.)  A  little  higher  up 
the  Greeks  have  their  own  Garden  of  Gethsemane,  containing  the 
many-domed  Church  of  Mary  Magdalen  (PI.  K,  4). 

A  few  paces  to  the  N.W.,  on  the  road  to  the  upper  bridge  over 
the  Kidron  (PI.  I,  3)  and  to  St.  Stephen's  Gate,  rises  St.  Mary's 
Church  (PI.  K,  3;  Arabic  Keniset  Sitti  Maryam),  built  by  queen 
Milicent  or  Melisendis  (d.  1161)  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  church 
mentioned  as  early  as  the  5th  cent.;  it  contains  the  'coffin  of  the 
Virgin',  in  which  she  lay  until  her  Assumption. 

The  Valley  of  the  Kidron,  identified  from  a  very  early  age  with 
the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  lias  been  supposed,  ever  since  pre-Christian 
times,  owing  to  a  misinterpretation  of  Joel  iii.  2,  to  be  the  future  scene 
of  the  Last  Judgment.  The  Moslems  bury  their  dead  on  the  E.  slope  of 
the  Haram  esh-Sherif,  and  the  Jews  on  the  YvT.  slope  of  the  Mt.  of  Olives. 

From  the  Jericho  road,  to  the  S.  of  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane,  a  path 
diverges  to  the  right  to  the  lower  bridge  over  the  Kidron  (PI.  I,  5).  To 
the  left  of  the  path  are  the  so-called  Tomb  of  Absalom,  a  cube  of  rock, 
with  a  curious  conical  roof  expanding  at  the  top ;  St.  James's  Cavern,  a 
rock-tomb ;  and  the  Pyramid  of  Zacharias.  All  these  date  from  the 
Grseco-Roinan  period. 

Farther  on,  to  the  S.E.,  passing  below  the  hill-village  of  Siloah  (PI. 
H,  I,  7-9  j  Arabic  Kafr  Silwan),  we  come  to  St.  Mary's  Fountain  (PI.  H, 
7;  Ain  Sitli  Maryam),  an  intermittent  spring,  probably  the  Oihon  of  the 
Old  Testament.  Since  the  time  of  Hezekiah  (about  700  B.C.)  its  water 
has  flowed  through  the  underground  Siloah  Conduit  to  the  Pool  of  Siloam 
(PI.  G,  H,  9),  within  the  Jewish  town-wall. 

Farther  down  the  valley  we  reach  in  a  few  minutes  'Job's  Well' 
(about  2035  ft.;  Bir  Eiyub). 

We  return  thence  to  the  town  by  the  Valley  of  Hinnoni  (p.  472). 
The  'Zion  Suburb'  (p.  473)  rises  steeply  on  the  N.W. ;  to  the  left  is 
the  slope  of  Jebel  Abu  Tor,  covered  with  rock-tombs.  Near  (12  min.)  the 
Sultan's  Pond  (see  below)  we  join  the  Bethlehem  road. 

The  Excursion  to  Bethlehem,  by  a  good  road  (lialf-a-day ;  carr. 
about  12  fr. ;  horse,  see  p.  471),  will  even  repay  walkers. 

The  road  descends  to  the  S.  from  the  Jaffa  Gate  (p.  473)  into  the 
Valley  of  Hinnom  (see  above).  Beyond  the  Birkel  es-Sultdn  (PI. 
C,  D,  8),  an  old  Jewish  reservoir  restored  by  Suleiman  the  Great 
(16th  cent.),  the  station-road  diverges  to  the  right. 

Our  road  leads  to  the  S.W.  across  the  tableland  of  El-Bukeia 
(p.  470),  past  the  traditional  Well  of  the  Magi  (Matth.  ii.  9),  to  the 
(3  M.)  Greek  convent  of  Mdr  Elyds  (left).  Bethlehem  appears  in 
the  foreground.    Fine  view  of  the  Dead  Sea  (p.  479)  to  the  left. 

At  (4  M.)  'Rachel's  Tomb'  (Kubbet  Rahil),  built  like  the  welis 
or  tombs  of  Moslem  saints,  the  Hebron  road  diverges  to  the  right. 

5  M.  Bethlehem  (2550  ft.;  pop.  about  11,000,  almost  all 
Christians),  the  home  of  David  and  the  birthplace  of  our  Saviour, 


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BETHLEHEM.  78.  Route.     481 

has  a  situation  resembling  that  of  Jerusalem.  It  consists  of  eight 
different  quarters,  containing  many  monasteries,  hospitals,  and 
schools.  Fine  view  from  the  German  Prot.  Weihnachtskirche 
('Christmas  Church',  1893),  on  the  "W.  outskirts. 

Over  the  traditional  birthplace  of  Christ  rises  *St.  Mahy's 
Church,  now  occupied  by  the  Greeks,  Latins,  and  Armenians 
jointly.  The  original  columnar  basilica  of  the  time  of  Constantine, 
with  its  double  aisles,  is  still  the  nucleus  of  the  present  church.  It 
was  thoroughly  renovated  by  the  Crusaders,  and  the  superb  wall- 
mosaics  were  restored  by  the  Byzantine  Emp.  Manuel  Comnenos 
(1143-80).  The  Greeks,  who  were  in  sole  possession  from  1672  (o 
1852,  unfortunately  added  the  transept  wall. 

Interior.  The  entrance  is  by  the  old  central  portal,  approached  from 
an  open  space  once  occupied  by  an  atrium.  Three  passages  lead  through 
the  transept,  with  semicircular  apses  at  either  end,  to  the  semicircular 
choir.  Among  the  almost  obliterated  mosaics  is  a  quaint  representation 
of  the  Entry  into  Jerusalem  in  the  S.  apse. 

Adjoining  the  choir  are  two  flights  of  steps  descending  into  the 
Crypt,  or  Chapel  of  the  Nativity,  and  to  the  'Chapel  of  the  Manger', 
the  'dwelling  of  St.  Jerome'  (b.  about  340  in  Dalmatia,  d.  in  420  at 
Bethlehem),  and  his  tomb,  which  also  are  highly  revered. 

The  stairs  on  the  N.  side  ascend  to  the  Latin  Church  of  St.  Catharine, 
through  which  we  return  to  the  principal  church. 

For  full  details,  see  Baedeker's  Palestine  and  Syria. 


74.  Beirut.  Excursion  to  Damascus. 

Arrival.  The  steamers  anchor  in  the  harbour  (PI.  F,  G,  1).  The 
landing  is  better  managed  than  at  Jaffa.  Boat  for  1  pers.  2  fr. ;  less  for 
a  party,  as  may  be  arranged.  The  hotels  and  tourist-agents  send  their 
men  on  board.  The  Douane  (PI.  F,  1;  passport  and  custom-house  formal- 
ities; comp.  p.  537)  is  close  to  the  landing-place. —  To  the  E.  of  the  Douane 
lies  the  Railway  Station  {Gare;  PI.  F,  G,  1). 

Hotels.  *H6t.  d'Allemagne  (PI.  a ;  E,  1),  well  spoken  of,  Hot.  d'  Orient 
(PI.  b;  E,  1),  both  near  the  sea;  Gassmann's  Hotel  (PI.  e;  F,  1),  in  the 
Suk  ed-Jemil;  pens,  at  these  12-15  fr.  (less  for  a  prolonged  stay);  Hot. 
Victoria  (PI.  d ;  E,  1),  plainer,  etc.  —  Restaurants.  Blaich,  Jean  SchrSter, 
both  near  the  Hot.  d'Allemagne. 

Electric  Tramways.  Four  different  lines  traverse  the  town  (comp. 
Plan);  of  these  the  Blue  Line  runs  from  the  Place  des  Canons  to  the 
Lighthouse  (Phare;  PI.  A.  2),  near  the  Rats  Beirut  (p.  483). 

Carriages.  Drive  1  f r. ;  per  hr.  in  town  2,  in  country  2-3  fr.  (more 
on  Sun.).  Longer  drives  as  may  be  arranged. — Horses.  Half-day  1,  whole 
day  i'/'>  mejidieh. 

Post  Offices.  Turkish  (Poste  Ttirque;  PI.  P,  1);  British,  French, 
German,  and  others,  Khan  Antun  Beg  (PI.  F,  1).  —  Telegraph  Office 
(Intcrnat. ;  PI.  F,  2),  Deri)  el-Kebireh  (p.  483). 

Banks.  Banque  Ottomane  (PI.  F,  1),  Anglo- Palestine  Co.,  German 
Palaest ina- Bank,  all  at  the  harbour.  —  For  the  Turkish  money,  see  p.  536. 

Consulates.  British  (PI.  2;  G,  2) :  consul-general,  H.  A.  Cumberbatch; 
vice-consul,  fl.  E.  W,  Voting.  —  United  States  (PI.  6;  C,  2):  consul-general, 
(r.  B.  Ravndal;  vice-consul,  L.  Memminger. 

Steamboat  Agencies.  Khedivial  Mail,  opposite  the  custom-house; 
Austrian  Lloyd,  Messag.  Maritimes,  and  Russian  Steam  Navigation 
&  Trading  Co.,   all   in   Khan  Antfln  Beg   (PI.  F,  1);  Societa  Nazionale, 


482     Route  74.  BEIRUT.  History. 

opposite  the  German  Bank.  —  Tourist  Agents.    Thos.  Cook  &  Son,  in  the 
Hotel  d'Orient;  Agence  Lubin,  Khan  Antun  Beg  (PI.  F,  1). 

Churches.  American  Presbyterian  Mission  (PL  F,  2);  services  on 
Sun.  at  11  a.  m.  in  English  and  at  9  a.  m.  in  Arabic.  Among  the  many- 
other  missions  and  schools  are  the  British  Syrian,  the  C'h.  of  Scotland 
Jeivish,  the  Syrian  Prot.,  and  a  number  of  German,  French,  etc. 

Beirut  (Fr. Beyrout,  Arab. Beirut;  pop.  190,000),  the  chief  com- 
mercial place  in  Syria  (Esh-Shdm),  and  the  capital  of  the  Turkish 
vilayet  (province  of  a  vali  or  governor)  of  that  name,  is  beautifully 
situated,  in  33°  50'  N.  lat.  and  35°  30'  E.  long.,  on  the  S.  shore  of 
St.  George's  Bay,  between  Eds  Beirut  (p.  483)  and  Mt.  St.Dimitri. 
To  the  E.  rises  Lebanon  (p.  xxxiv),  with  Jebel  Keneiseh  and  Jebel 
Sannin  (p.  483).  The  climate  is  mild  and  pleasant  (mean  tempe- 
rature of  Jan.  56°Fahr.,  of  Aug.  81°),  and  the  rainfall  is  conside- 
rable (34  in.).  The  sea-breezes  render  the  summer  bearable,  but 
they  are  apt  to  fail  in  August  and  September.  Many  of  the  citizens 
then  seek  refnge  in  the  summer  quarters  of  Lebanon,  to  which  Egyp- 
tians and  Cypriotes  also  resort. 

Berytus  ('fountain')  is  mentioned  in  the  tablets  of  Tell  el-Amarna 
(p.  456)  as  the  seat  of  the  Egyptian  vassal  Ammunira.  It  lay  in  the 
territory  of  the  Giblites,  a  northern  branch  of  the  Phoenicians.  In  140 
B.C.,  during  the  wars  of  the  Diadochi,  the  town  was  entirely  destroyed. 
The  Bomans  rebuilt  it  and  named  it  Colonia  Julia  Augusta  Felix  Bery- 
tus, after  the  daughter  of  Ernp.  Augustus.  In  the  3rd  cent,  its  school  of 
Roman  law  became  renowned.  From  that  time  down  to  the  present  day 
it  lias  been  noted  also  for  its  silk-industry,  which  was  transplanted  to 
Greece  and  to  Sicily.  In  529  the  prosperity  of  the  town  was  destroyed 
by  an  earthquake.  Since  its  conquest  by  the  Arabs  in  635  it  has  been 
in  the  possession  of  the  Moslems ,  except  during  the  brief  Crusaders' 
occupation.  Like  Saida  (p.  469)  it  was  a  favourite  residence  of  the  able 
Druse  prince  Fakhreddin  (1595-1634),  who  in  league  with  the  Venetians 
wrested  Central  Syria  from  the  Turks.  They,  however,  later  recaptured 
Beirut.  During  the  19th  cent.  Beirut  gradually  attained  a  new  lease  of  pro- 
sperity. Under  the  Egyptian  rule  its  sea-borne  commerce  increased,  while 
Saida  and  Tripoli  declined.  In  1840  the  town  was  bombarded  by  the  British 
fleet  and  recaptured  for  the  Turks.  After  the  massacre  of  Christians  in 
1860   (see  p.  485)   many  Christians   from   central  Syria  settled   at  Beirut. 

The  Moslem  inhabitants  (about  65,000)  are  in  a  considerable 
minority.  Among  the  Christians  there  are  64,000  Greeks,  40,000 
Maronites,  and  2100  Protestants.  The  Jews  number  about  5500. 
An  unusually  large  percentage  of  the  natives  can  read  and  write. 
The  chief  language  is  Arabic. 

Beirut  offers  few  sights.  The  poor  and  closely  built  Old 
Town  contains  the  Great  Mosque  (PI.  F,  2),  once  a  Crusader's 
church,  the  Greek  Churches,  and  the  Maronite  Cathedral  (PL  F,  2). 

The  Silks  or  markets  have  lost  much  of  their  Oriental  character. 
Most  of  the  genuine  native  products  come  from  Lebanon  (keffiyehs 
or  head-cloths,  embroidery,  woven  stuffs,  slippers,  bridal  chests, 
etc.).    The  filigree-work  has  long  been  noted  (sold  by  weight). 

The  native  population  may  be  studied  also  in  the  large  Place 
des  Canons  or  Place  de  V  Union  (PL  F,  2),  on  the  S.  side  of  the 


Mt.  St.  Dimitri.  BEIRUT.  74.  Route.     483 

Srrdi  or  government  buildings.  The  numerous  Arabian  cafes  are 
for  men  only. 

The  broad  streets  of  the  New  Town  skirt  the  picturesque  hill- 
sides. Palm,  orange,  and  lemon  trees  abound  in  the  beautiful  gardens. 
The  Damascus  Road  (tramway;  PI.  G,  4,  5)  leads  to  the  S.  in 
1/g  hr.  to  the  Bois  de  Pins  (PI.  G,  P,  6),  a  pine-wood  planted  by 
Fakhreddin  for  protection  against  the  sand  of  the  dunes. 

The  finest  point  of  view  is  *Mt.  St.  Dimitri  (PI.  H,  3-5;  best 
by  evening  light),  1/2  hr.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  old  town.  From  the 
Place  des  Canons  we  follow  the  Derb  en-Nahr  (PI.  G,  2)  and  the 
Tripoli  road,  turn  to  the  right  beyond  the  Greek  Orthodox  Hospital 
(PL  H,  2),  and  then  ascend  to  the  left. 

From  the  Place  des  Canons  (tramway,  see  p.  4S1)  the  Derb  el- 
Kebireh  (PI.  F,  E,  2)  and  Derb  el-Prusiani  lead  to  the  W.,  below 
the  dunes,  to  the  Rds  Beirut.  After  1/2  hr.  we  reach  the  Ughthouse 
(Phare  or  Fanar;  PI.  A,  2).  Thence  the  road  descends  in  windings 
to  the  sea  and  farther  on  to  the  'Pigeons'  Grottoes'  (reached  by  boat 
from  the  harbour  in  l/s  hr. ;  l*/2  mej.).  The  light  is  best  near  sunset. 


From  Beirut  to  Damascus,  911/2  M.,  narrow-gauge  railway 
(20  M.  being  on  Abt's  rack-and-pinion  system).  Two  trains  daily 
in  9'/4-ll  his.  (fare  110  pias.  10  or  75  pias.).  The  passenger  should 
have  the  exact  fare  ready  before  booking.  Reydk  is  the  dining- 
station  for  the  day-train. 

This  Railway  Company  (French)  has  its  own  rate  of  exchange: 
1  napoleon  =  87  pias.;  1  sovereign  =  110 pias.;  1  mejidieh  =  18'/.>pias. 

The  train  runs  from  the  harbour  to  the  E.,  close  to  the  sea, 
to  the  (l'/2  M.)  Chief  Station,  and  through  the  valley  of  the  Nahr 
BeirUt  at  the  E.  base  of  Mt.  St.  Dimitri,  soon  turning  to  the  S.  to 
(4l/2  M-)  El-Hadet.  It  then  rapidly  ascends  the  slopes  of  Lebanon. 

1072  M.  Areiya,  13  M.  Aleih  (2460  ft.) ,  two  summer  resorts 
in  the  Lebanon.  The  train  threads  a  tunnel  to  the  highest  point 
of  the  line  (4S79  ft.).  We  then  descend,  enjoying  line  views,  to  the 
right  and  left,  of  Jebel  el-Baruk  (6749  ft.)  and  Jebel  Keneiseh 
(6660  ft.),  to  (35  M.)  El-Muallaka,  a  large  village,  and  station 
for  the  Christian  town  of  Zahleh  (3101  ft.)  on  the  S.  spurs  of  Jebel 
Si,, niin  (8556  ft.;  snow-capped  in  early  summer). 

"We  next  traverse  the  lofty  valley  of  El-Bikd,  the  ancient 
Bucca  Vallis,  watered  by  the  Nahr  el-Litdni  (Leontes),  once  the 
most  fertile  part  of  Coelesyria  ('hollow  Syria'). 

41  M.  Reyak  or  Rayak  (Buffet;  halt  of  1j2\ir.),  junction  for 

Ibek  (Heliopolis)  and  Aleppo  (Haleb). 

Passing  through  the  narrow  Wddi  Yahfufeh  we  next  ascend 
the  Anti-Lebanon  Mis. ;  54!/2  M.  Sarrdyd  or  Zerghaya  (461 0  ft.) 
lies  between  their  two  main  ranges,  on  the  watershed  between  the 
Bikii  and  the  plain  of  Damascus. 


484     Route  74.  DAMASCUS.  Practical  Notes. 

Beyond  (61  M.)  Ez-Zebeddni  (3888  ft.)  the  train  enters  the 
valley  of  that  name,  famed  for  its  fruit  and  watered  by  the  Nahr 
Baradd  (Gr.  Chrysorrhoas ,  'gold  stream').  71 72  M-  Suk  Wddi 
Baradd  ('market  of  Barada  vale'),  at  the  end  of  a  defile. 

76!/2  M.  Ain  Fijeh,  the  chief  source  of  the  Barada,  has  remains 
of  a  Roman  Nymphseum  (see  p.  241).  85  M.  Dummar,  a  villa- 
suburb  of  Damascus.  The  city  with  its  minarets  soon  comes  in  sight. 

The  floor  of  the  Barada  valley,  between  (left  and  right)  Jebel 
Kdsyiln  (p.  489)  and  the  hills  of  Kalabdt  el-Mezzeh,  is  well 
planted  with  trees.  At  the  mouth  of  the  valley  the  river  divides 
into  seven  branches  which  water  the  great  plain  of  Damascus. 

Skirting  large  meadows  (merj),  then  orchards,  and  a  Roman 
Aqueduct,  the  train  reaches  (89y2  M.)  Damascus-Beramkeh  (see 
below),  where  it  is  usual  to  alight,  and  lastly  runs  past  the  W. 
side  of  El-Meiddn  (p.  487)  to  (9l72  M.)  Damascus-Meiddn. 


Damascus.  —  Railway  Stations.  1.  Beramkeh  or  Baramki,  near 
the  hotels  and  the  Serai. — 2.  Meiddn,  near  the  Bauwabet  Allah,  chief 
station  of  the  Beirut  line.  —  3.  Kadem,  for  the  Hejaz  line  (p.  469;  no  cabs). 
—  Cabs  and  tramway,  see  below. 

Hotels.  Hot.  Victoria,  Hot.  d'OrieM,  Palace  Hotel,  all  near  the 
Beramkeh  Station  and  the  Serai;  Hot.  d' Angleterre,  to  the  E.  of  the 
Serai  Square;  pens.  10-15  fr.  (or  more  when  crowded),  in  the  quiet  season 
6-10  fr. ;  good  wine  of  the  country  (from  Shtora)  lV2-5  fr. 

Arabian  Cafes,  the  largest  and  most  interesting  in  the  East,  mostly 
on  an  arm  of  the  Baradsl,  in  the  Serai  Square,  on  the  Beirut  road,  the 
Aleppo  road,  etc. — Visitors  should  beware  of  the  cold  night-air  from  the 
river  after  a  hot  day. 

Cabs  in  the  Serai  Square,  6-7  pias.  per  drive,  or  10-12  pias.  per  hr.  (al- 
ways to  be  agreed  upon  beforehand) ;  but  more  on  holidays  and  in  the 
height  of  the  season.  —  Electric  Tramway  (B1/4  M.)  from  the  El-Meidan 
quarter  vi§.  the  Serai  Square  to  the  suburb  of  Es-Salehiyeh  (p.  489). 

Post  Office   and  International  Telegraph  Office,   Serai  Square. 

Consuls.  British,  G.  P.  Devey,  near  the  Beramkeh  Station.  —  United 
States  Consular  Agent,  N.  Meshdka,  in  the  Christian  quarter. 

Dragomans  (Arabic  terjumdn),  about  10  fr.  a  day  during  the  season, 
desirable  for  new-comers  (comp.  p.  xxvi),  and  essential  in  visiting  the 
Omaiyade  Mosque.  Travellers  should  beware  of  trusting  them  with  money 
or  purchases. 

Banks.  Banque  Ottomane,  German  Palaestina-Bank,  both  in  the 
Suk  el-Asruniyeh  (p.  486).  —  Photographs  sold  by  Suleiman  Hakim,  at 
the  E.  end  of  the  Straight  Street  (p.  487).— Baths.  The  Hammdm  el- 
Khaiydtin  and  the  Hammdm  ed-Derwishiyeh  or  el-Malikeh,  among  others, 
are  worth  seeing. 

Churches.  English  Church  (St.  John's),  of  the  London  Jews  Society, 
in  the  Hammam  el-Kari  Quarter;  Rev.  J.  E.  Hanauer;  Sun.  service  at 
10.30.  Also  Edinburgh  Medical,  British  Syrian  Mission,  Irish  Presbyterian, 
and  other  missions,  with  excellent  schools,  hospitals,  etc.  —  The  Latins, 
the  Greeks,  and  the  Jews  also  have  their  own  schools. 

Sights  (when  time  is  limited).  1st  Day,  in  the  forenoon,  Serai  Square, 
the  Bazaars,  and  Meiddn  (pp.  486,  487) ;  afternoon,  Es-Sdlehiyeh  and  Jebel 
Kdsyun  (p.  489).  — 2nd  Day.     Mosque  of  the  Omaiyades  (p.  488). 

Damascus  (2268  ft.),  formerly  called  Dimishk,  a  name  still 
sometimes  used,  but  commonly  called  by  the  natives  Esh-Shdm  (a 


mstory.  DAMASCUS.  74.  Route.     485 

term  applied  also  to  the  whole  of  Syria  ;  p. 482),  lies  on  the  borders 
of  the  Syrian  Desert  (p.  xxxiii)  in  the  Rilta,  a  beautiful  oasis  be- 
tween Anti-Lebanon  and  the  'Meadow  Lakes',  into  which  fall  all 
the  branches  and  canals  of  the  Barada.  As  the  Koran  pictures  para- 
dise as  a  garden,  where  luscious  fruits  drop  into  the  mouth,  the 
Arabs  have  ever  regarded  Damascus,  with  its  luxuriant  orchards, 
as  the  prototype  of  that  blissful  abode.  The  Ituta  does  not,  however, 
and  least  of  all  in  winter,  impress  Europeans  quite  so  favourably. 
Yet  in  May,  when  the  walnut-tree  is  in  full  leaf  and  the  vine  climbs 
exuberantly  from  tree  to  tree,  or  still  later,  when  the  apricot-trees 
in  the  midst  of  their  rich  carpet  of  green  herbage  bear  their  count- 
less golden  fruits  and  the  pomegranates  are  in  the  perfection  of 
their  blossom,  the  gardens  are  truly  beautiful. 

History.  With  regard  to  the  foundation  of  Damascus,  which  like 
the  whole  of  Syria  belonged  from  about  1500  B.C.  onwards  to  Egypt 
and  to  the  Hittite  empire  (p.  517)  alternately,  countless  traditions  are 
current  among  the  Jews,  Christians,  and  Mohammedans.  After  David 
had  temporarily  extended  his  sway  to  Damascus,  there  arose  here,  in 
Solomon's  time,  an  independent  Aramaean  kingdom  under  Rezon  (1  Kings, 
xi.  23-25).  In  the  protracted  struggles  between  the  neighbouring  kingdoms 
of  Israel  and  Judah  the  Syrian  kings  generally  succeeded,  by  means  of 
judicious  alliances,  in  maintaining  their  independence.  In  the  annals  of 
the  Assyrians,  who  destroyed  Damascus  in  732,  the  town  is  called  Dimaski 
and  the  kingdom  Imirisu.  From  that  time  onwards  Damascus  lost  its 
political  importance;  but  it  continued,  especially  under  the  sway  of  the 
Seleuoides  of  Antioch  during  the  period  of  the  Diadochi,  to  prosper  as  a 
trading  and  industrial  city  and  as  the  starting-point  of  the  caravan  traffic 
with  Mesopotamia  and  Persia.  "When  it  became  a  Roman  provincial  city- 
it  formed  a  political  bulwark  against  the  Arabs  (Nabataans)  and  Parthians. 
In  611  A. D.,  under  the  Byzantine  emperor  Heraclius,  many  of  its  inhabi- 
tants were  carried  into  captivity  by  the  Sassanide  Chosroes  II. 

With  its  conquest  by  the  Arabs  in  635  begins  the  most  brilliant  period 
in  the  history  of  the  city.  Under  Miiawiya  (661-79),  founder  of  the  dynasty 
of  the  Omaiyades,  the  greatest  of  Arabian  princes,  it  became  the  seat  of 
the  caliphate.    But  when  the  Abbasides  removed  their  residence  to  Mcso- 

fotamia  in  750  Damascus  again  sank  to  the  position  of  a  provincial  town, 
t  fell  successively  into  the  hands  of  the  Egyptian  Tulunides  and  Fatimites 
(p.  443),  and  at  length  in  1075  succumbed  to  the  Seljuks  (p.  542).  In  1148 
it  was  unsuccessfully  besieged  by  Conrad  III.  Under  Nureddin  and  Saladin 
(p.  443)  Damascus  was  the  chief  base  of  all  the  wars  against  the  Crusaders. 
During  the  conflicts  between  the  Mongols,  who  under  ITulagu  had  captured 
the  city  in  1260,  and  the  Egyptian  Mameluke  sultans,  Damascus  was  specially 
favoured  by  Beybars  (1260-77).  During  the  great  predatory  expedition  of 
the  Mongols  under  Timur  (1399-1400)  many  scholars  and  artists,  including 
the  city's  famous  armourers,  were  exiled  to  Samarkand.  In  1516  the 
Turkish  sultan  Selim  I.  (p.  542)  entered  the  city  as  its  final  conqueror. 
In  1860  there  took  place  a  great  massacre  of  Christiana  in  which  the 
Christian  quarter  was  utterly  destroyed  and  about  6000  Christians  killed. 

Damascus  consists-  of  several  different  quarters.  The  Jews' 
Quarter,  as  in  the  time  of  the  Apostles,  adjoins  the  'Straight  Street' 
(p.  4S7),  on  the  S.E.  side  of  the  city;  to  the  N.E.  of  it  is  the 
poor  Christian  Quarter.  The  other  parts  of  the  town  are  Moslem. 
Far  towards  the  S.  stretches  the  suburb  of  Meid&n,  inhabited  by 
peasants.    The  Arabian  houses  in  the  old  town  are  noted  for  their 


486     Route  14.  DAMASCUS.  Bazaars. 

splendour.  They  usually  contain  a  spacious  court,  adorned  with 
fountains,  flower-heds,  orange-trees,  etc.,  and  flanked  on  the  S.  side 
by  a  lofty  open  arcade  (liw&n)  with  pointed  arches. 

The  population  is  roughly  estimated  at  300,000,  of  whom  four- 
fifths  are  Moslems,  and  there  is  a  garrison  of  12,000  men.  The 
Damascenes  are  notorious  for  their  ignorance  and  fanaticism.  The 
city  was  once  a  great  centre  of  learning,  but  of  about  a  hundred 
old  medrcsehs  or  colleges  five  only  now  remain.  The  famous  old 
weaving  industry  of  the  place  (still  employing  about  10,000  prim- 
itive looms  for  silk,  woollen,  and  cotton  stuffs)  is  being  steadily 
ousted  by  European  competition.  The  busy  bazaar  traffic  here  is 
hardly  less  picturesque  than  at  Cairo. 

We  begin  our  visit  at  the  Serai  Square,  the  centre  of  business, 
built  over  the  main  branch  of  the  Barada  (p.  484).  A  Monument 
here  commemorates  the  opening  of  telegraphic  communication 
with  Mecca. 

To  the  E.  of  the  square  are  the  *Bazaars.  Through  the  covered 
Stile  Ali  Pasha  (fruit  and  tobacco)  we  reach  the  Silk  el-Hamir 
(donkey-market),  beyond  which  is  an  open  street  where  corn  is  sold. 

At  a  large  plaue-tree  here  we  turn  to  the  right  to  visit  the 
interesting  Silk  es-Suriljiyeh  (saddlers'  market),  which  ends  near 
the  citadel  at  the  SUk  cn-Nahhdsin.  This  is  the  bazaar  of  the 
coppersmiths,  who  make  the  handsome  kursi,  or  trays  placed  on 
wooden  stands  (p.  487)  to  serve  as  tables. 

The  Citadel  (no  admittance),  a  huge  castle  in  the  style  intro- 
duced by  the  Crusaders,  was  built  in  1219  and  was  afterwards 
restored  by  Beybars  (p.  485).  The  thick  walls  stand  on  ancient 
substructures  of  massive  blocks.  At  the  corners  rise  square  towers 
with  bartisans.    The  chief  gate  is  on  the  W.  side. 

From  the  W.  side  of  the  Citadel  the  chief  thoroughfare  of  the 
city  (tramway,  see  p.  484)  leads  past  the  Military  Serdi  and  the 
Hammdm  el-Malikeh  (or  ed-Derwishtyeh)  to  the  Meidan  suburb 
(p.  487).   On  the  left  is  the  Suk  el-Kharrdtin,  or  Turners' Market. 

Opposite  the  Military  Serai  is  the  entrance  to  the  'Greek 
Bazaar',  a  covered  market  restored  in  1893,  one  of  the  largest  in 
the  city.  Among  the  wares,  for  which  buyers  can  hardly  offer  too 
little,  are  weapons,  antiquities,  clothing,  pipe-stems,  and  'damas- 
cened' daggers  (made  in  Germany). 

Straight  through  the  Greek  Bazaar  we  come  to  the  SUk  el- 
Hamidiyeh,  also  renovated,  with  its  attractive  Arabian  sweetmeat- 
shops.  A  side-street  leads  thence  (1.)  to  the  bazaar  for  Water  Pipes 
(a  kind  of  hookah  smoked  by  the  peasants)  and  the  Silk  el-Asruntyeh, 
for  utensils,  glass,  henna  (p.  108),  and  attar  of  roses  (p.  335). 

Beyond  the  Suk  Bdb  el-Berid  (on  the  left)  we  pass  the  almost 
deserted  bazaar-street  of  the  Booksellers  (leading  to  the  Omaiyade 
mosque,  p.  488),  with  an  old  Triumphal  Arch,  whence  a  double 


Straight  Strat.  DAMASCUS.  74.  Boute.     487 

row  of  columns  once  led  to  the  ancient  temple  (see  p.  4SS).  We 
then  turn  out  of  the  Hamidiyeh,  to  the  right,  into  the  Cloth  Bazaar 
(chiefly  imported  goods).  On  the  right  is  the  Tomb  of  Nureddin 
(p.  485;  unbelievers  not  admitted). 

Adjoining  the  S.  side  of  the  mosque  are  the  bazaar  of  the 
Joi?iers,  where  we  note  the  kabkabs,  a  kind  of  patten,  the  kursi- 
stands,  and  the  bridal  chests,  and  that  of  the  Goldsmiths. 

To  the  S.  of  the  great  mosque  is  the  region  of  the  Khans  (p.  445). 
We  come  first  to  the  Khan  el-Harir,  or  silk-bazaar,  now  that  of 
the  furriers.  Near  it  is  the  House  of  Asad  Pasha,  one  of  the  finest 
in  the  city  (admittance  with  the  aid  of  a  dragoman).  The  *Khdn 
Asad  Pasha,  with  its  superb  stalactite  portal,  is  the  largest  of  all. 

Near  this  point  runs  the  ancient  'Straight  Street'  (Acts  ix.  11 ; 
now  Snk  ct-Tawileh,  or  'long  market'),  connecting  the  Meidan  road 
v.  ith  the  Bab  esh-Sherki  (see  below).  A  few  paces  to  the  W.,  towards 
the  Meidan  road,  on  the  left,  is  the  Khan  Suleiman  Pasha,  for 
Persian  carpets  and  silks.  On  the  right,  where  the  cloth-bazaar 
(see  above)  diverges,  is  the  Silk  Bazaar  proper,  for  the  sale  of 
keffiyehs  (head-cloths,  'kerchiefs'),  table-covers,  embroidery, 
woollen  cloaks  (abayehs)  for  peasants  and  Bedouins,  etc.  —  We  next 
come  to  the  Suk  el-Attdrin,  or  spice-market,  and  to  the  Meiddn 
Road. 

At  the  point  where  we  join  this  road  rises  the  Janii  es-Sinaniyeh, 
one  of  the  most  sumptuous  mosques  in  Damascus.  The  chief  portal 
(E.  side),  with  its  rich  stalactites,  and  the  minaret  enriched  with  fayence- 
tiles  (kishani,  p.  477)  are  interesting. 

The  road  forks  farther  on.  We  follow  the  Meidan  Road  (at  first 
called  Siik  es-Sinaniyeh)  to  the  S.  Close  to  the  Jami  el-Idein,  where  the 
Meidan  Road  trends  somewhat  to  the  right,  we  pass,  on  the  left,  the 
Moslem  cemetery  Mdkbaret  Bab  es-Sarir,  where  women  weep  at  the  tombs 
on  Thursdays. 

The  poor  suburb  of  Meidan  is  modern.  Its  numerous  mosques, 
including  the  fine  Edat  el-Ula,  are  in  a  ruinous  state.  The  suk  is  fre- 
quented by  corn-dealers,  whose  grain  is  heaped  up  in  open  barns,  and 
by  smiths.  The  arrival  of  caravans  here  presents  a  picturesque  scene. 
The  long  strings  of  camels  are  attended  by  ragged  Bedouins.  Amoug  them 
are  seen  Hauranians,  bringing  their  corn  to  market,  and  here  and  there  a 
K  urd  shepherd  with  his  square  felt-mantle  driving  his  sheep  to  the  shambles. 
The  Bedouins,  armed  with  guns  or  with  long  lances,  sometimes  ride  beau- 
tiful horses.  The  wealthy  Druses  from  Lebanon  have  a  most  imposing  ap- 
pearance. Twice  a  year  almost  all  these  types  may  be  seen  together:  on 
the  departure,  and  again,  better  still,  on  the  return  of  the  Mecca  pilgrims. 

If  time  permit  we  may  now  retrace  our  steps  to  the  cemetery 
Makbarct  Bab  es-Sarir  (see  above)  whence  we  take  a  short  walk  along 
the  City  Wall,  on  the  S.  E.  side  of  the  old  town,  beyond  the  Jewish  and 
Christian  quarters  (p.  485).  Its  foundations  arc  Roman,  the  central  part 
dates  from  the  days  of  Nureddin  and  the  Egyptian  sultan  EI-Ashraf  Khalil 
(1291),  and  the  upper  part  from  the  Turkish  period.  Passing  the  camping- 
ground  of  the  caravans  from  Bagdad  and  the  Bab  esh-Sherki  (E.  Gate, 
originally  Reman),  we  come  to  the  well-preserved  Bab  Tumd  (St.  Tho- 
mas's Gate).  [About  3/4  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  Bab  esh-Sherki  are  Christian 
burial-grounds;  in  one  of  which  Henry  Thomas  Buckle,  the  eminent 
English  historian  (d.  1862),  is  interred.) 

Near  the  Bab  Tflma  on  the  Aleppo  road,  beyond  the  Baiada,  are  public 


488     Route  74.  DAMASCUS.  Omahiade  Mosque. 

gardens  and  pleasant  caf<5s  patronized  by  Christians.  We  return  thence 
to  the  Citadel  (p.  486),  passing  between  the  Barada  and  the  N.  side  of 
the  town-wall,  here  probably  Byzantine. 

The  great  *Omaiyade  Mosque  (Jdmi  el-Umawt),  the  finest 
monument  of  that  dynasty  in  Syria  next  to  the  Dome  of  the  Rock 
(p.  477),  deserves  close  inspection.  Entrance  by  the  W.  gate 
(Bab  el-Berid),  at  the  end  of  the  booksellers'  suk  (p.  486).  Gratuity 
to  the  sheikh  who  acts  as  guide  ca.  1  mejidieh  each  person;  addit. 
charge  for  slippers  1-2  pias.  each  person. 

On  the  site  of  the  mosque  there  once  stood  a  Roman  temple  within 
a  large  quadrangle.  This  was  succeeded  by  the  churcli  of  St.  John,  a 
three-aisled  basilica  built  by  Enip.  Theodosius  I.  (379-95),  and  so  named 
from  the  'head  of  John  the  Baptist'  (Arabic  Yahya)  preserved  in  the 
Confessio,  by  which  the  Damascenes  still  swear.  After  the  conquest  of 
the  city  by  the  Arabs  (p.  485)  the  E.  half  of  the  church  was  assigned  to 
the  Moslems.  Caliph  Welid  (705-15)  deprived  the  Christians  of  the  W.  half 
also;  and  in  708,  with  the  help,  it  is  said,  of  1200  Byzantine  artificers, 
he  transformed  the  church  into  the  present  mosque,  which  was  so  magni- 
ficent that  Arabian  authors  extolled  it  as  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world. 
Adjacent  to  it  the  earliest  school  of  learning  was  built  by  caliph  Omar  II. 
(717-20).  The  mosque  was  carefully  restored  after  fires  in  1069,  1400, 
and  1893,  but  its  ancient  glory  has  departed  for  ever. 

"We  enter  the  great  Court,  which  with  the  mosque  itself  forms 
an  immense  rectangle  of  143  by  104  yds.,  and  is  flanked  by  two- 
storied  arcades  in  the  Byzantine  style.  Behind  these  are  the 
sleeping-apartments  and  studies  of  the  teachers  and  students. 
The  old  marble  pavement  of  the  court,  the  mosaic  incrustation  of 
the  walls,  and  the  crown  of  pinnacles  have  disappeared.  The  foun- 
tain of  ablution  (Kubhet  en-Naufara)  and  the  two  smaller  domed 
buildings  are  modern. 

Of  the  three  Towers  the  'bride's  minaret'  (Mddinet  el- Arils; 
now  being  rebuilt)  on  the  N.  side  of  the  court  is  said  to  date  from 
the  time  of  "Welid.  The  'minaret  of  Jesus'  (Mddinet  Isd),  at  the 
S.E.  angle  of  the  mosque,  recalls  the  Crusaders'  edifices.  The 
Mddinet  el-Rarbiyeh,  at  the  S.W.  angle,  in  the  Egypto-Arabian 
style  and  famed  for  its  view,  was  added  by  Ka'it  Bey  (p.  458). 

The  Lsterior  (143  by  41  yds.),  with  its  three  span-roofs,  still 
has  the  form  of  an  early-Christian  basilica.  Above  each  of  the 
two  rows  of  columns,  23  ft.  high,  which  separate  the  aisles,  rises 
a  row  of  'colonnettes'  with  round-arch  openings,  to  which  similar 
round-arched  windows  in  the  outer  walls  correspond.  In  the  centre 
a  threefold  transept,  with  four  huge  pillars  supporting  the  dome 
(Kubbet  en-Nisr,  eagle's  dome),  indicates  the  direction  of  Mecca. 
The  Byzantine  glass-mosaics  of  the  time  of  "Welid,  the  superb  timber 
ceiling,  and  the  mihrab  and  mimbar  (15th  cent.)  were  all  sadly 
damaged  by  the  fire  of  1893.  In  the  central  aisle  on  the  E.,  over 
the  'head  of  John  the  Baptist',  rises  a  modern  dome  in  wood. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  mosque,  near  the  Bab  el-Amdra,  are  the  hand- 
some Tomb  of  Salad  in  (Kabr  Salaheddin;  adm.  G  pias.)  and  the  Medreseh 
and  Tomb  Mosque  of  Sultan  Beybars  (p.  485),  the  latter,  according  to  the 
inscription,  built  by  his  son  in  1279. 


CYPRUS.  75.  Route.     489 

The  suburb  of  Es-Salehiyeh  (tramway,  see  p.  484),  H/4  M. 
to  the  N.W.  of  the  Serai  Square,  has  about  25,000  inhab.,  mostly 
descended  from  Seljuks,  reinforced  later  by  Kurds  and  by  Moslem 
refugees  from  Crete.  The  finest  of  the  ruinous  mosques,  but  not 
readily  shown,  is  the  tomb-mosque  of  Muhieddin  ibnel-Ardbi 
(d.  1240),  adjoined  by  the  tomb  of  Abd  el-Kader  (p.  221). 

From  the  Cretan  quarter  at  the  W.  end  of  the  suburb  we  may 
ascend,  past  a  platform  affording  a  good  view,  to  the  (l1^  hr.)  top 
of  the  Jebel  Kdsyiln  (3718  ft.).  The  *View  at  the  small  Kubbcl 
en-Nasr  ('dome  of  victory')  embraces  the  city,  encircled  by  the 
broad  green  belt  of  the  oasis  of  the  Ruta,  the  barren  heights  of  Anti- 
Lebanon,  with  the  long  chain  of  Mt.  Hermon  (9052  ft.;  generally 
snow-capped)  to  the  S.W. ;  aud  to  the  S.E.,  beyond  Jebel  Mdni,  the 
distant  hill-country  of  the  Haurdn. 

Fuller  details  in  Baedeker's  Palestine  and  Syria. 


75.  From  Beirut  to  Smyrna 

(and  Constantinople). 

713  M.  Steamers  (agents  at  Beirut,  see  p.  481;  at  Smyrna,  p.  531;  at 
Constantinople,  pp.  538,  539).  1.  Messayeries  Maritimes  (N.  Mediterranean 
Marseilles  and  Beirut  line),  from  Beirut  every  alternate  Sat.  (from  Constan- 
tinople on  Thurs.)  via,  Rhodes,  Vathy,  and  Smyrna  to  Constantinople  in 
4  days  (fare  205  or  140  fr.).  —  2.  Russian  Steam  Navigation  &  Trading  Co. 
(see  also  R.  72;  Syria-Egypt  circular  line,  coming  from  Alexandria)  from 
Beirut  on  Thurs.  night  (in  the  reverse  direction  Thurs.  aft.)  via  Tripoli, 
Aloxandretta,  Mersina,  Chios,  and  Smyrna  to  Constantinople  in  81/.,  days 
(fare  284  or  212  fr. ;  to  Smyrna  198  or  148  fr.).  —  3.  Khedivial"  Mail 
Steamship  Co.  (comp.  also  R.  72;  from  Alexandria  and  calling  at  Port 
Said)  leaves  Beirut  every  alternate  Wed.  foren.  (returning  Sat.  aft.)  for 
Constantinople  (in  7  days)  via.  Tripoli,  Alexandretta,  Mersina,  Rhodes, 
Chios,  Smyrna,  Mytilini,  the  Dardanelles,  and  Gallipoli  (fare  <£E  9>/4  or 
<£E  67a  ;  see  p.  431). 

Beirut,  see  p.  481.  The  French  steamers  make  straight  out  to 
sea  in  a  W.  direction.   Astern  Lebanon  remains  long  in  sight. 

About  half-a-day's  steaming  brings  us  in  view  of  the  mountains 
of  Cyprus  (Turk.  Kibris;  pop.  ca.  243,000),  culminating  in  the 
bare  Troodos  (6408  ft.).  Under  the  Phoenicians  and  Greeks  Kypros, 
the  third-largest  island  in  the  Mediterranean  (3613  sq.  M.),  was 
the  seat  of  the  cult  of  Aphrodite  and  the  scene  of  a  peculiar  civil- 
ization, the  product  of  Egyptian,  Phoenician,  and  Greek  influences 
in  succession.  In  the  middle  ages  the  island  was  governed  by  kings 
of  the  house  of  Lusignan  and  was  for  a  time  the  seat  of  the  Knights 
of  St.  John  (1292-1308;  see  pp.  475,  469,  490).  Since  1878  it  has 
been  under  British  protectorate  and  only  nominally  Turkish. 

Far  away  to  the  right  we  see  the  table-shaped  Capo  Greco  and 
the  bays  of  Larnaka  and  IAmassol.  We  then  pass,  on  the  S.  coast 
of  Cyprus,  the  prominent  peninsula  of  Akrotiri,  with  Cape  Gata 


400     Route  75.  RHODES.  From  Beirut 

(lighthouse)  and  Cape  Zevgari.  Beyond  Port  Paphos  (lighthouse) 
we  skirt  the  rocky  W.  coast  of  the  island. 

On  the  coast  of  Asia  Minor  (Anatolia),  on  a  clear  day,  we 
sight  the  beautiful  ranges  of  the  Lycian  Taurus  (10,5U0  ft. ; 
p.  xxxiii) ;  at  night  the  lighthouse  on  the  island  of  Kasteloryzo  (an- 
cient Megiste),  with  the  seaport  of  Mandraki,  is  sometimes  visible. 

To  the  S.E.  of  Rhodes  we  cross  one  of  the  deepest  parts  of  the 
Mediterranean  (12,683  ft.). 

Nearing  Rhodes  (562  sq.  M. ;  ca.  30,000  inhab.),  the  eastmost 
island  of  the  Greek  Archipelago,  we  sight  its  S.E.  coast  as  far  as 
Attdiros  (4068  ft. ;  formerly  Atabyrion)  and  Cape  Larios.  The 
latter  rises  beyond  the  small  bay  of  Lindos,  which  together  with 
Ialysos  and  Kamiros,  ancient  Greek  towns  on  the  N.  coast,  and 
with  Cnidus,  Cos,  and  Halicarnassus,  once  formed  the  league  of  the 
Doric  Hexapolis. 

The  French  steamers  call  at  Rhodes  (Hot.  Karayannis,  good; 
Brit,  vice-cons.),  the  capital  of  the  island,  picturesquely  situated 
at  its  N.E.  point.  Founded  in  408  B.C.  by  the  three  older  towns 
(see  above)  it  became  famous  in  later  Greek  times  for  its  navy  and 
for  the  Colossus  of  Rhodes,  a  bronze  statue  of  Helios  112  ft.  high, 
which  was  accounted  one  of  the  seven  wonders  of  the  ancient  world. 
The  ruinous  medifeval  *Fortifications  and  the  Strada  dei  Cavalieri, 
with  the  old  'Houses'  (places  of  assembly)  of  the  different  nations, 
recall  the  mediaeval  glory  of  Rhodes  under  the  sway  of  the  Knights  of 
St.  John  (1308-1522)   after  their  expulsion  from  Cyprus  (p.  489). 

We  next  steer  through  the  JEgean  Sea,  where  the  scenery  and 
the  historic  associations  are  alike  most  attractive.  We  pass  the 
S.  Sporades,  Greek  islands  off  the  coast  of  ancient  Carta  and  Lydia, 
once  ruled  by  the  Knights  of  St.  John,  and  now  called  Dodekanesos 
('twelve  islands'),  which  enjoy  autonomy  under  Turkish  suzerainty. 

Steaming  to  the  W.N.W.  we  cross  the  inland  sea  of  the  ancient 
Doris,  between  Rhodes  and  Cos,  noted  for  its  sponge-fishery.  On 
our  right  lies  the  Anatolian  peninsula  of  the  ancient  Chersonesus 
Rhodia,  with  Cape  Alupo  (Cynossema)  and  the  island  of  Symi 
(Syme);  to  the  W.  rise  the  precipitous  and  fissured  island  of  Telos 
(Tilos;  2008  ft.)  and  the  volcanic  island  of  Nisijros  (2268  ft.),  with 
its  huge,  still  smoking  crater  and  its  hot  springs.  To  the  N.W. 
stretch  the  long  outlines  of  Chersonesus  Cnidia,  with  the  ruins  of 
Cnidos  and  Cape  Krio  (Triopium  Promontorivm). 

The  steamer  rounds  the  E.  coast  of  Cos  (2871  ft.;  Turk.  Istan- 
Tcioi;  not  one  of  the  Dodekanesos  group),  once  the  seat  of  the  most 
ancient  shrine  of  iEsculapius  and  of  a  famous  medical  school  (Hip- 
pocrates), and  passes  the  peninsula  of  Budrum  (Halicarnassus). 
To  the  W.  appear  in  succession  the  islands  of  Kalymnos  (2248  ft.), 
Leros  (1086  ft.),  Lipso  (902  ft,;  Lepsia),  and  Arid  (Acrite). 

To  the  E.  of  the  island  of  Gciidaronisi  (696  ft. ;  Tragia),  where 


to  Smyrna.  SAMOS.  75.  Route.     4(1 

Gsesar  was  captured  by  pirates  in  76  B.C.,  opens  the  Latmian Bay , 
belonging  to  the  ancient  Ionia,  now  silted  up  by  the  deposits  of 
the  Mseander.   A  little  inland  are  the  ruins  of  Miletus  and  Priene. 

The  French  steamers  now  pass  through  the  Straits  of  Santos, 
between  the  Samsun  Dagh  (4150  ft.;  Mykah)  and  the  island  of 
Samos,  whose  old  capital,  Santos,  now  Tigani,  with  its  walls  of 
the  age  of  Polycrates  and  its  new  harbour  (1908),  is  seen  in  the 
distance. 

Vathy  (Xenodochion  Hegcmonia  tes  Samu,  a  good  inn;  pop. 
9500),  the  new  capital  of  Samos,  lies  in  the  bay  of  Scalanova  (set 
below),  on  the  N.  coast.  Above  the  narrow  bay  rises  the  distane 
Samson  Dagh.  On  the  shore  stands  the  plain  palace  of  the  Samian 
princes.  Since  1832  the  island  has  formed  a  Christian-Greek  state 
under  Turkey.  The  Museum,  in  the  court  of  the  high  school,  con- 
tains antiquities  from  the  famous  shrine  of  Hera  and  from  Tigani. 

The  French  vessels,  soon  after  starting,  offer  a  retrospect  of 
ML  Kerki  (47'25  ft.;  Cerceteus  Mom),  the  highest  in  Samos,  and 
then  cross  the  Bay  of  Scalanova  (Sinus  Caystrius).  In  the  hill- 
eountry  on  the  mainland,  to  the  E.  of  this  bay,  near  the  mouth  of 
the  Cayster  or  Kaystros,  once  lay  the  rich  Ionian  towns  of  Ephesus 
and  Colophon  and,  to  the  N.  of  these,  Lebedus  and  Taos. 

Passing  the  Bay  of  Sighajik  and  Cape  Koraka  (Caryeium 
Promontorium)  we  soon  reach  the  Straits  of  Chios  (coinp.  p.  492). 

Smyrna,  see  p.  530 ;  voyage  thence  to  Constantinople,  see  p.  533. 


76.  Prom  Alexandria  to  Athens  and 
Smyrna  (and  Constantinople). 

Fkom  Alexandria  to  the  Piraeus  (Athens:  590  M.):  1.  Ehedivial 
Mail  Steamship  Co.  (Alexandria  and  Constantinople  line),  from  Alexandria 
on  Wed.  (returning  from  the  Piraeus  Thurs.)  aft.,  in  42  hrs.  (fare  <£E5 
or  £  3  E  25  pias.).  —  2.  Rumanian  Mail  Line  (Alexandria  and  Constantza 
line),  from  Alexandria  on  Frid.  aft.  (returning  from  the  Piraeus  Sat.  aft.), 
in  2  days.  —  3.  Russian  Steam  Navigation  &  Trading  Co.  (Odessa,  Con- 
stantinople, and  Alexandria  line),  from  Alexandria  on  Frid.  aft.  (from 
the  Piraeus  Tues.),  in  2  days  (130  or  90  fr.). 

From  Alexandria  to  Smyrna  (623  M.),  steamers  of  the  Bolgian  com- 
pany La  Phocienne  (between  Alexandria  and  Constantinople),  every  Sat. 
aft.  via  Rhodes,  Leros,  and  Chios. 

Agents  in  Alexandria,  see  p.  432;  at  the  Piraeus,  p.  494;  at  Smyrna, 
p.  531.  Passports  for  Turkey  should  be  vis4s  before  starting,  or  a  Turkish 
passport  (tcskere")  may  be  obtained  at  the  government  buildings  (p.  431). 

Alexandria,  see  p.  431.  The  Athens  Steamees  steer  to  the 
N.W.  to  the  Strait  of  Kasos,  28  M.  broad,  lying  between  Kasos 
(1706  ft. ;  one  of  the  Dodekanesos  group,  p.  490)  and  Crete  (p.  415). 
Behind  Kasos  rises  the  lofty  island  of  Kdrpathos  (4003  ft. ;  Ital. 
Scarpanto,  Turk.  Kerpe),  like  the  former  one  of  the  southmost  of 
the  Sporades.    Fine  view  of  the  Sitia  Mis.  (4852  ft.),  continued 

Baedeker's  Mediterranean.  32 


492     Route  76.  PATMOS.  From  Alexandria 

by  the  Lasithi  Mts.,  together  called  Dikte  in  ancient  times.  Off 
the  E.  coast  of  Crete  we  see  the  flat  islet  of  Elasa. 

We  steer  close  by  Cape  Sidero  (lighthouse),  the  N.E.  point  of 
Crete,  and  past  the  Gianitsades  (Insulae  Dionysiades).  As  we 
steam  across  the  Cretan  Sea  (Mare  Creticum)  the  high  mountains 
of  Crete  long  remain  visible. 

"We  next  pass  Aslcania  (469  ft.)  and  Christiana  (916  ft.),  the 
southmost  islets  of  the  Cyclades  (p.  xxxii),  which  belong  to  Greece, 
and  which,  like  the  S.  Sporades  (p.  490)  in  the  JEyean  Sea,  rise 
from  a  submarine  barrier  running  between  the  extremities  of  Attica 
and  Eubcea  (p.  529)  and  the  coast  of  Asia  Minor. 

Beyond  Christiana  we  have  a  striking  view  of  the  immense 
prehistoric  crater-basin  formed  by  the  islands  of  Therasia  (952  ft.) 
and  Santorin  (p.  417).  To  the  N.  appear  the  wild  rocky  island 
of  Sikinos  (1480  ft.)  and  the  distant  Ios  or  Nios  (p.  417) ,  and  to 
the  N.W.  Pholeyandros  (1349  ft.)  and  the  large  volcanic  island  of 
Melos  or  Milos  (2537  ft.). 

"We  steer  between  Pholegandros  on  the  right  and  Polinos 
(1171  ft.)  on  the  left,  a  broad  passage  marked  by  lighthouses  at 
night,  and  then  through  the  strait  between  Kimolos  (1306  ft.)  on 
the  left  and  Siphnos  (2280  ft.;  lighthouse)  on  the  right,  both  of 
which,  like  Seriphos  (1585  ft.;  on  the  right;  with  iron-miues), 
have  retained  their  ancient  Greek  names. 

Passing  at  some  distance  from  Thermid  (1148  ft.;  the  ancient 
Kythnos)  and  Kea  (p.  529)  we  steer  close  by  the  islet  of  Hdyios 
Georgios  and  through  the  Bay  ofJEgina  to  the  Piraeus  (p.  494). 


On  the  Voyage  to  Smyrna  we  steam  to  the  N.N.W.,  370  M.  from 
Alexandria,  to  Rhodes  (p.  490). 

Beyond  Rhodes  on  the  left  are  the  island  of  Gharki  (1954  ft.), 
off  its  N.W.  coast,  and  then  Telos  and  Nisyros  (p.  490).  A  little 
farther  on  we  pass  through  the  strait  between  the  Syrina  Group, 
on  the  left,  and  the  islets  of  Kandeleusa  and  Panteleusa  (181  ft. ; 
lighthouse),  adjoining  Nisyros,  on  the  right. 

To  the  W.  we  sight  the  double-peaked  island  of  Astropalia 
(1660  ft.;  ancient  Astypalaea)  and  Amoryos  (p.  417),  and  to  the 
E.  Cos  and  Kalymnos  (p.  490).  Beyond  the  lights  on  the  islet  of 
Levitha  (548  ft.)  and  beyond  Leros  (p.  490),  at  which  the  steamer 
calls,  the  rocky  isle  of  Patmos  or  Patinos  (870  ft.),  St.  John's 
place  of  exile,  becomes  more  conspicuous. 

We  next  steer  round  Cape  Papas,  the  W.  point  of  the  bold 
island  of  Nikaria  or  Ikaria  (3422  ft.),  and  then  to  the  N.N.E. 
through  the  Straits  of  Chios,  4=l/2  M.  in  breadth,  between  the  island 
of  Chios  (Turk.  Sakis  Adasi;  318  sq.  M.  in  area)  and  the  mainland 
of  Anatolia  or  Asia  Minor.  The  S.  entrance  of  the  straits,  beyond 
Capo  Bianco  (right;  once  Aryennon),  is  flanked  with  the  islets 


to  Smyrna.  CHIOS.  76.  Route.      493 

of  Pdspargon  (lighthouse)  and  Panagia.  On  the  right  lies  the 
harbour  of  Cheskmeh,  a  little  town  with  a  mediaeval  castle. 

We  now  enter  the  harbour  of  Kastro,  or  Chios  (Xenodochion 
Nea  Chios,  a  good  inn;  pop.  about  14,000,  mostly  Greeks),  the 
capital  of  the  island,  on  the  E.  coast.  Once  a  most  important 
member  of  the  Ionian  league  of  cities,  Chios  belonged  in  the  middle 
ages  to  the  Venetians  (1204-1345),  and  then  to  the  Genoese  (1346- 
1566),  and  only  became  Turkish  under  Suleiman  the  Great  (p.  542). 
The  fruitless  Greek  struggle  for  independence  ended  with  the 
massacre  of  Chios  in  1832.  The  hill-country  of  Chios  is  extremely 
fertile.    A  valuable  export  is  the  gum  of  the  mastic-shrub. 

We  next  pass  close  to  the  Goni  Islands,  lying  in  front  of  the 
bay  of  Lytri  (Erythrae),  and  the  Spalviatori  Islets  (CEnussae 
Insulae),  at  the  N.  end  of  the  straits  of  Chios. 

Sail  up  the  Gulf  of  Smyrna,  see  p.  530. 

77.  From  (Marseilles,   Genoa)  Naples  to 
Athens  (and  Constantinople). 

774  M.  Fuom  Naples  to  Athens  (steamboat-agents  at  Marseilles,  see 
p.  120;  at  Genoa,  p.  Ill;  at  Naples,  p.  137 ;  at  the  Piraeus,  pp.  494,  495).  1. 
Xorth  German  Lloyd  (Mediterranean  &  Levant  Service,  RR.  23,  24,  80)  from 
Marseilles  every  other  Thurs.  via  Genoa  (Sat.),  Naples  (Mon.),  and  Catania 
(Tues.)  to  the  Piraeus  in  6  days  (fare  from  Marseilles  180  or  120  marks, 
from  Genoa  168  or  112  marks,  from  Naples  120  or  84  marks,  from  Catania 
96  or  64  marks).  —  2.  Messageries  Maritimes  (Marseilles,  Constantinople, 
and  Beirut  line),  from  Marseilles  every  second  Thurs.  via  Naples  (Sat.) 
to  the  Piraeus  in  4  days  (fare  225  or  150  fr.) ;  also  (Marseilles,  Constan- 
tinople, and  Black  Sea  line)  every  second  Sat.  via  Kalamata  and  Canea 
(p.  415)  to  the  Piraeus  in  5  days.  —  3.  Societa  Nazionale,  lines  X  and  XI 
(Genoa,  Constantinople,  and  Odessa  line),  from  Genoa,  Tues.  night,  visi 
Leghorn  (p.  143),  Naples  (Frid.),  Palermo  (p.  147),  Messiua,  Catania,  and 
Canea  (p.  415)  to  the  Piraeus  in  11  days  (fare  from  Naples  155  fr.  50  c.  or 
109  fr.). 

From  Marseilles  and  Genoa  to  Naples,  see  RR.  23,  24. 

From  Naples  (see  R.  27),  after  half-a-day's  sail,  we  reach  the 
superb  Straits  of  Messina.  On  the  right,  at  the  foot  of  the  Monti 
PeUnitani,  lie  the  ruins  of  Messina  (p.  156) ;  to  the  left  is  Reggio 
(p.  159) ;  to  the  S.W.  towers  Mt.  JEtna  (p.  159). 

The  German  and  Italian  boats  steer  to  the  S.S.W.  to  Catania 
(p.  160). 

Sailing  to  the  E.S.E.,  and  gradually  leaving  Mtna  behind,  we 
lose  sight  of  land  for  a  whole  day.  At  length,  on  the  left,  we  sight 
the  Messenian  Peninsula  of  the  Peloponnesus,  flanked  by  the 
CEnussae  Islands;  beyond  it,  the  Bay  of  Korone,  the  ancient 
Messenian  Bay,  runs  far  inland.  We  then  steer  to  the  E.  towards 
Cape  Taenaron  or  Matapdn  (p.  xxxii),  the  S.  point  of  the  penin- 
sula of  Mani.  To  the  N.E.  looms  the  bold  rocky  crest  of  .1/^. 
Taygetos  (7903  ft.),  whose  top  is  free  from  snow  in  summer  only. 

32* 


494     Route  77.  BAY  OF  ^GINA.  From  Naples 

Beyond  Cape  Tsenarou  the  Bay  of  Marathonisi,  the  ancient 
Sinus  Laconicus,  opens  to  the  N.  We  next  pass  between  Cape 
Malta,  notorious  for  its  storms,  and  the  island  of  Kythera 
(1660  ft.;  Ital.  Ceriyo),  and  turn  towards  the  N.  For  a  short  time 
we  see  the  mountains  of  Crete  (p.  415)  to  the  S.E.  The  bleak  S.E. 
coast  of  the  Peloponnesus  is  now  gradually  left  behind,  while  to 
the  right  a  few  small  rocky  islands,  belonging  to  the  Oyclades 
(p.  492),  come  into  sight. 

Off  Hydra  (1942  ft. ;  lighthouse),  near  the  peninsula  of  Argolis, 
opens  the  Bay  of  JEgina,  the  ancient  Saronic  Gulf.  To  the  left 
is  the  island  of  Poros;  in  the  background  rises  Mt.  Hagios  Elias 
(1748ft.),  the  highest  hill  mJEgina.  On  the  right,  beyond  the  islet 
of  Hagios  Georgios  (1050  ft.;  lighthouse),  the  ancient  Belbina, 
appears  the  hilly  S.  extremity  of  Attica  v/ithCapeColonna  (p.  529). 
The  barren  rounded  hill  in  Attica,  much  foreshortened  at  first,  is 
Mt.  Hymettos;  straight  in  front  of  us  is  Mt.  Parnes,  forming  the 
N.  boundary  of  the  Attic  plain. 

Before  us  are  the  ancient  Mt.  JEgaleos  (now  Skaramangd 
Mts.)  and  the  indented  coast  of  the  island  of  Salamis,  which 
appears  at  both  ends  to  join  the  mainland.  Above  Salamis  towers 
the  lofty  peak  of  Geraneia  in  Megaris.  A  hill  jutting  into  the  sea 
in  front  of  Mt.  iEgaleos  now  becomes  visible.  This  is  the  Piraeus 
Peninsula  (comp.  Map,  p.  528).  The  hill  a  short  way  inland  is 
the  Munychia  (p.  495),  and  to  the  right  of  it  lies  the  shallow 
bay  of  Phdleron  (p.  528).  Between  Hymettus  and  Parnes  the 
gable-shaped  Pentelilcon  appears.  We  now  have  a  beautiful  view 
of  Athens;  in  the  centre  rises  the  Acropolis,  on  the  left  the  monu- 
ment of  Philopappos.  The  large  white  building  on  the  right  is  the 
royal  palace,  beyond  which  rises  Lykabeltos  (p.  528). 

As  we  near  the  Piraeus  we  observe  the  rocky  islet  of  Lipso- 
kutdli  (Psyttaleia;  lighthouse),  lying  off  the  E.  tongue  of  Salamis, 
and  masking  the  entrance  to  the  straits  of  Salamis,  the  scene  of  the 
famous  battle  of  480  B.  C.  (p.  506).  The  steamer  rounds  the  head- 
land of  Aide  and  slowly  enters  the  harbour  of  the  Pirseus. 

PlFiBUS.  — -  The  Commissionnaires  of  the  chief  Athens  hote'is  come 
on  board  (those  of  the  smaller,  only  when  written  for).  Arrangements 
for  landing  (boat  1  dr.,  with  baggage  2  dr.)  and  for  a  carriage  to  Athens 
(p.  495)  had  better  be  left  to  them.  Heavier  baggage  is  briefly  examined  at 
the  Telonion,  at  the  S.  E.  angle  of  the  harbour. 

Station  of  the  electric  railway  to  Athens  (comp.  p.  503),  to  the  N. 
of  the  town  (opposite  the  station  of  the  Peloponnesus  line). 

Hotel.  Hot.  &  Restaurant  Continental,  Karaiskakis  Sq.,  to  the  N. 
of  the  harbour,  R.  from  2  dr. ;  but  better  quarters  are  to  be  had  in 
Athens.  —  Cafes  in  and  near  the  garden  to  the  S.  of  the  Demarchia, 
3  min.  to  the  E.  of  Karaiskakis  Sq.,  on  the  harbour. 

Electric  Tramways  from  the  custom-house  to  the  Athens  station; 
from  the  station  to  the  Zea  harbour;  also  from  the  station,  from  the  harbour 
(Karaiskakis  Sq.),  or  from  the  Rue  de  Socrate  to  New  Phaleron  (p.  528). 

Steamboat  Agents.  Messageries  Maritimes,  Vamvakaris,  Rue  de 
Mianlis  80b;  North  German  Lloyd,   Roth  &  Co.,   Rne  de  Tsamadu  21; 


to  Athent.  PIR^US.  77-  Route.     495 

German  Levant,    Frangopulos;    Austrian  Lloyd,    S.    Oalucoi,    Quai    de 
Tshelebi,   to  the  "W.  of  Karaiskakis  Sq.;  Societa  Nazionale,  A.  Vellas; 
•  n  Steavi  Navigation  &  Trading  Co.,  Mussuris. 
British  Consul.,  C.  J.  Cooke;  vice-consul,  J.  Joannidis. 

The  Piraeus,  Gr.  Peiraieus  (pronounced  Pirseevs;  pop.  71,500), 
the  time-honoured  seaport  of  Athens  (comp.  p.  506),  became  a  mere 
village  after  its  destruction  by  Sulla  in  86  B.  C,  and  in  the  middle 
ages  even  lost  its  name,  but  within  the  last  few  decades  has  devel- 
oped into  a  prosperous  town.  Its  trade  now  exceeds  that  of  Patras. 
The  harbour,  the  ancient  Kanfharos,  admits  the  largest  vessels. 
Spacious  quays,  an  exchange,  a  theatre,  wide  and  regular  streets, 
and  over  a  hundred  factories  have  been  constructed. 

Its  antiquities  are  few  compared  with  those  of  Athens.  The 
chief  are  parts  of  the  fortifications,  such  as  a  wall  defended  by 
towers,  ascending  the  peninsula  of  Eetioneia,  to  the  W.  of  the  har- 
bour. It  is  reached  from  the  station  in  8min.  by  walking  round  the 
shallow  N.  arm  of  the  harbour  (the  'blind  harbour'  of  antiquity). 
On  the  hill  it  is  pierced  by  a  gateway  between  two  round  towers. 

A  broad  and  easy  path  ascends  the  Munychia  Hill  (280  ft.), 
to  the  E.  of  the  town  (20  min.),  whence  we  overlook  the  various 
basins  of  the  Great  Harbour,  the  round  Zea  Bay  at  the  S.W. 
foot  of  the  hill,  the  Munychia  Harbour  at  the  S.E.  base,  and  to 
the  E.  of  the  latter  the  broad  Phaleron  Bay,  where  the  Athenian 
ships  lay  down  to  the  time  of  the  Persian  wars.  We  may  return  by 
the  Zea  Bay,  noticing  remains  of  ancient  boat-houses  at  the  begin- 
ning of  the  Rue  du  Serangeion,  and  regain  the  station  by  tramway. 

Prom  the  Piraeus  to  Athens  (5  M.)  the  electric  Railway 
(p.  503)  is  the  quickest  conveyance,  but  as  it  lies  low  and  runs 
through  cuttings  and  tunnels  near  the  city  it  affords  little  view. 

New-comers  had  better  take  a  Carriage.  The  new  route  (l1^!""- 5 
fare,  with  luggage,  8-10  dr.),  though  longer,  is  in  better  condition, 
and  is  therefore  preferred  by  the  drivers.  At  first  running  along- 
side the  railway  it  reaches  New  Phaleron  (p.  528);  it  then  skirts 
the  bay  of  Phaleron  at  some  little  distance  from  the  shore.  Later 
proceeding  inland  it  follows  the  broad  new  Boulevard  Syngrds, 
which  commands  an  excellent  view  of  the  Acropolis  and  leads  in  a 
straight  line  as  far  as  the  Olympieion  (p.  509).  —  The  old  route 
(V/4  hr.;  fare,  with  luggage,  6-7  dr.)  follows  the  'Long  Walls' 
(p.  506)  which  once  connected  the  Piraeus  with  Athens.  On  the  left 
is  Alt.  JEgalcos  (p.  494),  while  on  the  right  appears  the  bay  of 
Phaleron.  We  cross  the  generally  dry  bed  of  the  Kephisos  (p.  505), 
and  then  pass  the  limits  of  the  ancient  olive-grove  that  occupies 
the  plain  of  the  Kephisos.  Leaving  behind  a  hill  which  conceals 
the  Acropolis  we  at  once  come  in  sight  of  the  Theseion,  the  Areo- 
.  and  the  Acropolis.  The  houses  of  the  city,  which  we  reach 
at  the  Dipylon  (p.  522),  all  too  soon  exclude  this  splendid  view. 
Athens,  sec  p.  502. 


496 


78.  From  Venice  or  Trieste  to  Athens  (and 
Constantinople)  via  Brindisi  and  Patras. 

From  Venice  to  the  Piksus  (Athens),  Societa  Nazionale  (Lino  XII, 
Venice,  Brindisi,  Patras,  and  Constantinople),  from  Venice  on  Sat.  aft. 
(returning  from  Piraeus  Frid.  foren.),  to  Patras  in  4'/2>  to  the  Piraeus  in 
5  days  (fare  195  or  134  fr.). 

From  Trieste  to  the  Pir^ius.  1.  Austrian  Lloyd  (fast  boats  to  Con- 
stantinople) from  Trieste  on  Tues.  aft.  (returning  from  Piraeus  Sun.  even.) 
to  Patras  in  21/2,  to  the  Piraeus  in  4  days  (fare  to  Patras  159  or  109,  to 
Piraeus  220  or  147  fr.).  Also  Greek-Oriental  Line  (every  Sun.  foren.;  re- 
turning from  Piraeus  Sun.  aft.),  in  5  days,  and  Thessalian  Line  (Frid. 
aft.;  returning  from  Piraeus  Frid.  or  Sat.)  in  6l/2  days.  —  2.  Greek  Steam- 
boat Co.  Panhellenios,  from  Trieste  on  Frid.  foren.  (from  Piraeus  Mon. 
morn.)  to  Patras  in  3,  to  the  Piraeus  in  5  days. 

From  Trieste  to  Patras,  New  York  Line  of  the  Austro -Americana 
(p.  425),  from  Trieste  weekly  or  fortnightly,  in  42-46  hrs.  (fare  150  or  110 if). 
Passengers  for  the  Piraeus  are  conveyed  through  the  Corinth  canal  by  the 
Achaia  Co.,  or  they  may  go  on  by  rail  (see  below). 

Agents  in  Venice,  see  p.  420;  at  Trieste,  p.  425;  at  Brindisi,  p.  429; 
at  Corfu,  p.  497;  at  Patras,  p.  501;  at  the  Piraeus,  pp.  494,  495. 

From  Patras  to  Athens,  137'/2  M.,  railway  in  It-lr&h  nrs-  (^are  25 
or  18  dr.);  express  on  Tues.  and  Frid.  in  6>/2  hrs.  (28  dr.*40  or  23  dr.  65  1.; 
•wagon  de  luxe'  33  dr.  40  1.).     As  to  Greek  money,  see  p.  502. 

The  Italian  steamers  (comp.  p.  427)  from  Venice  touch  at  Ancona, 
Bari,  and  Brindisi.  The  Lloyd  steamers,  except  those  of  the  Thes- 
salian line,  go  direct  from  Trieste  to  Brindisi  (comp.  p.  429). 

Soon  after  leaving  Brindisi  we  steer  to  the  S.E.  To  the  left  of 
the  Straits  of  Otranto  (p.  430)  are  seen  the  outlines  of  Albania 
(Turkey),  with  the  great  rampart  of  the  Acroceraunian  Mts. 
(6644  ft.).  Farther  on,  in  the  foreground,  lies  the  island  of  Corfu. 
On  the  right  are  the  Othonian  Islands,  Othoni,  Erikusa,  Math- 
raki,  and  the  islet  of  Diaplo.  At  the  S.  end  of  the  Acroceraunian 
Mts.  lies  Santi  Quaranta,  where  the  Italian  steamers  call,  the 
poor  seaport  for  Yanina,  which  is  two  day's  ride  (59  M.)  distant. 

The  scenery  of  the  wide  Strait  of  Corfu  (2-4!/2  M.  broad),  se- 
parating the  island  from  the  mainland,  is  very  imposing.  To  the 
right  towers  Monte  San  Salvatore  (p.  500).  The  town  of  Corfu, 
partly  hidden  at  first  by  the  island  of  Vido,  is  now  revealed.  On 
casting  anchor  we  have  on  our  left  the  double  hump  of  the  Fortezza 
Vecchia  and  on  the  right  the  dark  ramparts  of  the  Fortezza  Nuova. 


Corfu. 

Arrival.  Landing  or  embarking  Vfai  with  heavy  baggage,  2  dr.  As 
the  boatmen  are  insolent,  there  is  no  tariff,  and  great  confusion  prevails, 
the  traveller  had  better  allow  the  hotel-agents  who  come  on  board  to 
arrange  for  boat,  baggage,  and  carriage,  for  which  a  charge  of  3-4  fr.  is 
made  in  the  bill.  Passengers  who  go  ashore  for  a  few  hours  only  may 
bargain  to  be  landed  and  rowed  back  for  l*/s  fr.,  payable  on  their  return. 

Hotels  (tariffs  payable  in  gold,  see  p.  502).  *H6t.  d'Angleterre  &  Belle 
Venise  (PI.  a),  to  the  S.  of  the  town,  high  site,  with  fine  views  and  garden, 


o 

a  1 


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i 


5* 


N    £   J   V 


1 


CORFU.  7S.  Route.     4<)7 

I?.  3-7,  B.  1'/;,.  dej.  1,  D.  5fr. ;  St.  Georges  (PI.  b),  on  the  Esplanade,  similar 
charges.  —  Unpretending  houses,  with  restaurants  :  Belvedere,  Stiada  sulle 
Mura,  pens.  7  dr.:  the  following  are  in  the  Greek  style:  Orient,  on  the 
Esplanade;  Patras,  Nikephoros  Street;  Hot.  d'Alerandrie,  R.  2fr.,  and 
Hot.  de  Constantinople,  R.  3  dr.,  both  near  the  harbour. 

Cafes  in  the  Esplanade,  at  the  beginning  of  the  double  avenue;  cup 
of  Turkish  coffee  20  1.  —  Kestaurants.  Abbondanza  (Greek),  Nikephoros 
Street,  moderate;  Patras,  Belvedere,  see  above. — Beer.  Dobay,  on  the 
Esplanade;  Gambriiuis,  near  the  Old  Theatre  (p.  498). 

Bakks.  Fels  &  Co.  (PI.  1),  Strada  sulle  Mara;  Banque  Ionienne,  Nike- 
phoros Street,  not  far  from  the  Esplanade;  Banque  Nationale. — Post 
Office,  adjoining  the  Sanita,  Nikephoros  Street. — Telegraph  Office, 
near  the  Banque  Ionienne. 

Steamboat  Offices.  Austrian  Lloyd,  Eller man  Line,  Fels  &  Co.  (see 
above):  Societa  Nazionale  (PI.  8),  G.  Topali. — Tourist  Agency.  Ham- 
burg-American Line,  Strada  sulle  Mura.  —  Lloyd's  Agents,  Barff  &  Co. 

Consulates.  British  (PI.  3):  consul,  G.Raymond;  vice-consul,  P.  Papa- 
dachi. — United  States  (PI.  7):  consular  agent,  Ch.  E.  Hancock. 

Carrlvges.  Drives  in  town  or  nearer  environs  2-3  dr.  per  ln\,  as  may 
be  agreed  upon;  short  drive  usually  1  f r.  Carr.  obtained  at  the  hotels  are 
better  but  clearer. — Boats  for  excursions  may  be  ordered  at  the  hotels. 

Motor  Cars  (belonging  to  the  Soci&te  d' Automobiles) :  omnibus  daily 
to  the  N.  and  S.  parts  of  the  island,  each  person  10  1.  per  kilometre; 
vehicle  seated  for  live  50  1.  per  kilometre. 

Theatres.  Teatro  Grande,  built  in  1895  on  the  model  of  San  Carlo 
at  Naples,  near  the  Porta  Reale;  Ital.  opera  in  winter;  Summer  Theatre, 
to  the  S.  of  the  Ginnasio. 

Sea  Baths   (80  1.  to  1  dr.)  and  plunge-baths,   near  Punta  San  Nicolo. 

English  Church  (Holy  Trinity),  service  in  the  season. 

Corfu,  Ital.  Corfu,  Greek  Eerkyra,  the  capital  of  the  island  of 
the  same  name  and  the  seat  of  archbishops  of  the  Greek  and  Roman 
Catholic  churches,  is  one  of  the  wealthiest  towns  in  the  Greek  do- 
minions (pop.  28,250,  incl.  4000  Rom.  Cath.  and  2700  Jews).  The 
spacious  harbour  is  enlivened  by  a  brisk  trade,  the  chief  export 
being  olive-oil.  The  fortifications  constructed  by  the  Venetians,  the 
Fortezza  Vecchia,  picturesquely  situated  in  the  sea,  on  a  double 
rock  to  the  E.  of  the  town,  and  the  Fortezza  Nuova,  on  the  N.W., 
are  both  now  unimportant.  The  narrow  streets  present  a  busy  scene. 
The  chief  languages  are  Greek  and  Italian. 

Kerkyra.  Lat.  Corcyra,  the  largest  (215  sq.  M.)  and  most  important 
of  the  Ionian  Islands,  was  supposed  in  aucient  times  to  have  been  Scheria, 
the  home  of  the  PhsBaci  and  their  king  Alkinoos.  Having  been  colonized  by 
the  Corinthians  at  an  early  period  (734  B.  C),  it  developed  into  a  danger- 
ous rival  of  its  mother-city,  thus  partly  causing  the  Peloponnesian  war. 
The  mediaeval  name  seems  to  have  been  derived  from  'Korphus',  as  the 
old  fortress  on  the  two  rocks  was  called.  From  1386  to  1797  Corfu  belonged 
t»>  Venice,  from  1815  to  1863  it  was  under  British  sway,  after  which  it 
was  ceded,  along  with  the  other  Ionian  Islands,  to  the  kingdom  of  Greece. 

The  island  (with  93,860  inhab.)  possesses  hill  and  plain,  bold  rocks 
and  charming  bays  on  the  coast,  abundant  water-supply,  rich  vegetation, 
and  line  old  olive  forests,  which  combine  to  render  its  scenery  highly 
attractive.  The  climate  is  mild  and  equable  in  spring  and  autumn.  The 
good  roads  made  everywhere  by  the  British  government  add  to  the  com- 
fort and  enjoyment  of  a  short  stay  in  the  island. 

On  disembarking  we  cross  the  courtyard  of  the  Dogana,  turn 
to  the  left  at  the  small  Hot.  de  Constantinople,   and  follow  the 


498     Route  78.  CORFU.  From  Venice 

Strada  sidle  Mura,  which  skirts  the  N.  side  of  the  town,  affording 
numerous  fine  views,  and  reaches  the  Esplanade  near  the  royal  pal- 
ace. Or  we  may  ascend  direct  from  the  Dogana  through  the  Strada 
Nikephoros,  the  busy  main  street,  in  5  min.  to  the  Esplanade.  Be- 
fore we  reach  the  Esplanade  we  pass  a  side-street  on  the  left  with 
the  church  of  Santo  Spiridione,  and  another  on  the  right  with  the 
Teatro  Vecchio,  built  by  the  Venetians,  now  the  municipio. 

The  Esplanade,  or  Spianata,  lies  between  the  town  and  the 
old  fortress.  On  the  W.  side  it  is  bounded  by  handsome  houses 
with  arcades  on  the  groundfloor.    At  the  N.  end  rises  the  — 

Royal  Palace,  built  in  grey  Malta  stone,  at  the  beginning 
of  the  British  period,  for  the  Lord  High  Commissioner,  and  con- 
taining the  throne-room  and  the  hall  of  the  former  Ionian  senate. 
The  entrance  is  by  the  W.  side-door  (gratuity).  A  marble  staircase 
ascends  to  the  first  floor.  At  the  top  is  an  antique  lion  couchant. — 
In  front  of  the  palace  is  a  Statue  of  Sir  Frederick  Adam,  a  much 
respected  Lord  High  Commissioner  of  the  islands  (1823-32). 

At  the  E.  end  of  the  double  avenue  intersecting  the  Esplanade 
rises  a  statue  of  Count  von  der  Schideriburg,  who  conducted  the 
defence  of  Corfu  against  the  Turks  in  1716,  erected  by  the  republic 
of  Venice.    Beyond  it  a  bridge  crosses  a  strait  to  the  — 

*IPortezza  Vecehia  (adm.  on  application),  which  rises  on  the 
steep  twin-rocks  in  terraces.  The  dilapidated  buildings  are  now 
used  as  barracks  and  a  military  hospital.  At  the  foot  of  the  height 
is  the  garrison-church  built  by  the  British.  The  passage  opposite 
the  chief  entrance  gives  access  to  the  commandant's  house.  We 
ascend  hence  to  the  left,  pass  through  a  long  vaulted  passage, 
leading  straight  on  to  the  ramparts,  which  are  overgrown  with 
vegetation,  and  lastly  mount  a  few  steps  to  the  platform  on  the  W. 
rock  (230  ft.;  with  signalling  station  and  lighthouse).  The  custodian 
lends  a  telescope  (25  1.).  We  enjoy  here  a  superb  **View  of  the 
town  and  of  the  island,  from  Monte  San  Salvatore  and  Capo  Casso- 
petto  on  the  N.  to  Capo  Bianco  on  the  S. ;  to  the  E.  is  Epirus  in 
Turkey,  with  its  lofty  mountains. 

A  broad  street  descends  from  the  S.  end  of  the  Esplanade  to  the 
Viale  dell'  Imperatrice  Elisabetta,  formerly  Strada  Marina, 
skirting  the  shore  below  the  new  quarter  of  the  town  and  now  a 
favourite  promenade  in  the  evening.  At  the  beginning  of  it,  on  the 
right,  is  the  Casino,  with  reading  and  concert  rooms.  Turning  to 
the  right  after  4  min.,  and  then  to  the  left,  we  come  to  the  Museum, 
containing  ancient  sculptures  and  tomb-inscriptions.  Near  it  is  the 
round  Tomb  ofMenecrates,Te.sewblmg  a  well  (7th  or  6th  cent.  B.C.). 
Above  is  the  ruined  Fort  of  San  Salvatore  (prison). 

The  boulevard  sweeps  round  the  suburb  of  Kastrad.es  or 
Garitza  first  to  the  S.  and  then  to  the  E.  to  the  Molo  protecting  the 
bay.   At  a  bend,  short  of  the  molo,  we  follow  the  Viale  Imperatore 


to  Athens.  CORFU.  78.  Route.      499 

Guglielmo  Secondo  to  the  right  (S.).  After  7  min.,  opposite  the 
apse  of  the  old  church  of  Santa  Corcyra,  we  ascend  a  road  to  the 
left.    A  gate  on  the  left  is  the  entrance  to  the  — 

*Royal  Villa  of  Monrepos  (Villa  Reale;  free  on  Sun.  and 
Thurs.  aft.).  The  park  affords  fine  views  of  the  town  and  castle. 

The  Viale  Imperatore  Guglielmo  skirts  the  W.  slope  of  the  hilly 
peninsula  which  stretches  to  the  S.,  between  Lake  Kalikiopulo  and 
the  sea.  Here  probably  lay  the  ancient  city,  with  the  bay  of  Kastrades 
as  its  trading  harbour,  while  the  Lake  of  Kalikiopulo,  now  choked 
with  mud,  seems  to  have  been  the  Partus  Hyllaeicus,  used  as  a 
station  for  vessels  of  war.  The  road  is  bordered  with  rose  and  orange 
gardens,  and  farther  on  with  beautiful  olive-groves.  In  25  min. 
(or  from  the  Esplanade  in  3/4  hr.)  we  reach  a  round  open  space, 
called  the  *Canone,  or  One-gun  Battery  (carr.  5-6  fr.),  which 
Commands  a  superb  view  of  the  E.  coast  of  the  island. 

Opposite,  at  the  entrance  to  the  ancient  Hyllsean  harbour,  lies  the 
Scoglio  di  Ulisse  ('cliff  of  Ulysses'),  or  Pontikonisi  ('mouse  island'),  a 
cypress-planted  islet  with  a  chapel  and  parsonage,  now  owned  by  an  enter- 
prising German.  The  Greeks  took  this  to  be  the  ship  of  the  Phaeacians 
which  had  brought  Odysseus  to  Ithaca,  and  on  its  way  back  was  turned  into 
stone  by  the  angry  Poseidon.  The  S.W.  shore  of  the  Lake  of  Kalikiopulo, 
where  a  brook  named  Kresslda  enters  the  lake,  is  pointed  out  as  the 
place  where  Odysseus  was  cast  ashore  and  met  the  princess  Nausicaa. 

The  charming  drive  to  Gasturi  and  Benizze  (7l/2  M.)  and  back 
takes  3-4  hrs.  (carr.  10-15  dr.;  as  far  as  the  Achilleion,  there  and 
back  21/2  hrs.,  8-10  dr.).  We  leave  the  town  by  the  former  W.  gate, 
or  Porta  Reale  and  pass  through  the  suburb  of  San  Rocco.  The 
road  runs  a  little  to  the  W.  of  Lake  Kalikiopulo  and  ascends  in 
windings  to  (5  M.)  Gasturi  (Achilleion,  pens.  7  dr.).  About  lj2  M. 
farther,  a  little  to  the  left,  is  the  villa  *  Achilleion  (adm.  to  the 
building  and  the  grounds  11-3,  2  dr.),  built  in  1890-1  for  Empress 
Elizabeth  of  Austria  (d.  1898),  in  the  Italian  Renaissance  style,  and 
purchased  by  the  German  emperor  in  1907.  The  back  of  the  villa 
is  adjoined  by  a  peristyle  and  three  terraces  adorned  with  statues. 
On  the  road,  just  beyond  the  villa,  is  the  Restaurant  Bella  Vista. 
We  now  descend  (short-cuts  for  walkers)  to  the  (2  M:)  fishing-village 
of  Benizze,  where  delicious  oranges  grow,  and  where  there  are 
remains  of  a  Roman  villa  (boat  to  Corfu,  5  dr.) 

Another  delightful  excursion  is  to  Sa7ili  Deca  (carr.  10-15  dr.; 
there  and  back  5-6  hrs.).  About  s/4  M.  short  of  Gasturi  the  road 
diverges  to  the  right  from  the  Benizze  road.  The  drive  to  the 
village  of  Hagi  Deka  or  SanH  Dcca  ('ten  saints';  676  ft.)  takes 
1V4  hr.  (the  walk  2  hrs.).  Thence  we  asceud  (guide)  the  (1  hr.) 
double-peaked  Monte  Sauti  Deca  (1862  ft.),  where  we  have  a 
superb  view,  notably  of  the  Albanian  coast.  A  narrow  path  then 
descends,  the  last  part  through  olive-groves,  to  (x/2  hr.)  Apano- 
Garuna,  and  proceeds  thence  to  the  N.  to  (74  hr.)  the  pass  of 
San  Teddoro  or  Hagios  Theddoros  (788  ft.),  where  the  carriage 


500     Route  78.  CORFU.  From  Venice 

quitted  at  Santi  Deca  may  be  ordered  to  meet  us.  The  drive  back 
to  Corfu  via  Kamdra  takes  llJ2  hr. 

The  monastery  of  Palseokastrizza  ('old  castle'),  on  the  W.  coast, 
about  15  M.  to  the  N.W.,  is  a  delightful  point  of  view  (carr.  there  and 
hack  20-25  dr.,  in  6  hrs.,  excl.  stops).  A  road  diverging  to  the  right  ahout 
halfway,  IV2  M.  beyond  the  picturesque  hay  of  Govino,  crosses  the  Pheleka 
and  leads  over  the  fine  San  Pantaleone  Pass  and  through  hill  scenery 
to  the  N.  coast.  Far  to  the  right,  on  the  E.  coast,  rises  Monte  San  Sal- 
vatore  (Greek  Pantokrator;  2998  ft. ;  ascended  with  guide  in  3  hrs.  from 
Spartilia;  carr.  from  Corfu  to  Spartilla  via  Griovino,  Ipso,  and  Pyrgi,  in 
2V2hrs.,  about  20  dr.). 

See  also  Baedeker's  Greece. 


As  the  Steamer  leaves  Corfu  the  picturesque  fortress  remains 
long  in  view.  The  highest  hill  on  the  right  is  Monte  Santi  Deca 
(see  p.  499).  The  strait  widens.  To  the  left  is  the  mouth  of  the 
Kalamas;  beyond  it  tower  the  Albanian  Mts. ;  on  our  right  is  Cape 
Levlcimo.  On  the  left,  off  Kavo  Aspro  or  Capo  Bianco,  the  S. 
point  of  Corfu,  lie  the  small  Sybota  Islands,  where,  in  432  B.  C, 
was  fought  the  great  naval  battle  between  the  Corinthians  and  the 
Corcyrseans,  supported  by  the  Athenians,  which  marked  the  out- 
break of  the  Peloponnesian  war. 

In  21/2-3  hrs.,  after  passing  the  rocky  islets  of  Paxos  and 
Antipaxos,  we  reach  the  open  Ionian  Sea.  On  the  mainland  is 
seen  the  little  town  of  Parga. 

We  now  leave  in  the  distance  the  Epirote  coast,  where,  off 
Actium,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ambracian  bay,  Octavian's  naval 
victory  over  Antony  in  31  B.C.  gave  him  the  sole  supremacy.  On 
the  left  the  island  of  Levkds  (Ital.  Santa  Maura)  remains  long 
in  sight ;  its  S.W.  headland,  Kavo  Dulcato,  5  M.  long,  ends  in  the 
Leucadian  Rock,  which  once  bore  a  temple  of  Apollo.  Sappho, 
who  loved  the  beautiful  Phaon,  is  said  to  have  thrown  herself  from 
this  rock,  a  leap  which  was  supposed  to  cure  unrequited  love. 

We  round  the  cape  and  enter  the  strait  between  Levkas  and 
Kephallenia  (Ital.  Cefalonia).  Steering  to  the  S.E.,  past  the  E.  side 
of  Ithaca,  we  have  a  good  view  of  its  beautiful  mountain  with  a 
deep  depression  in  the  middle.  At  the  entrance  to  the  bay  of  Patras 
lie  the  Oxia  Islands.  Here  in  1571  was  fought  the  naval  battle  of 
Lepanto,  where  Don  John  of  Austria  annihilated  the  Turkish  fleet. 

Nearing  Cape  Kalogria,  (he  N.W.  point  of  the  Peloponnesus, 
we  observe  to  the  N.,  beyond  a  narrow  strip  of  coast  and  a  large 
lagoon,  the  little  town  of  Misolonghi  or  Mesolongion,  where  Byron 
died  in  1824.  Beyond  it  rises  Mt.  Zygos  (3107  ft.),  the  last  outpost, 
to  the  W.,  of  the  high  iEtolian  range.  Next,  on  the  N.  shore  also, 
we  sight  the  finely -shaped  Vardssova  (3007  ft.)  and  Klokova 
(3415  ft.).  In  the  Peloponnesus,  to  the  S.,  tower  the  Olonos  Mts. 
(7300  ft.)  and  the  Voidid  (6322  ft.).  Patras,  completely  surrounded 
with  currant-plantations,  becomes  more  and  more  distinctly  visible. 


to  Athens.  PATRAS.  78.  Route.     501 

Patras.  —  Armvax.  The  steamer  anchors  in  the  harbonr  near  the 
Molo  San  Nicolft  (examination  of  luggage  at  the  railway-station,  see  below). 
Landing  or  embarkation  1,  with  baggage  2  dr.;  but  the  boatmen  usually 
try  to  extort  far  more.  Hotel-boat  2'/2  dr. —  Station,  to  the  N.E.  of  the 
harbour,  5  min.  from  the  landing-place. 

Hotels  (charges  should  be  agreed  upon  beforehand)  all  near  the  land- 
ing-place. Hot.  d'Angleterre,  R.  2-5,  B.  1,  dej.  3l/a,  D.  5,  pens.  S-12«/.,  IV.. 
well  spoken  of;  Gr.-IIot.  de  Patras,  R.  4,  B.  l'/a,  d6j.  3,  D.  4,  pens. 
12'/a  fr. ;  between  these,  New  &  Tourist  Hotel,  St.  Andreas  Street,  R. 
2'/3  fr-,  B.  70  c,  d(5j.  2V9,  D.  31/2,  pens.  8  fr.,  well  spoken  of .  —  Cafes- 
Restaurants  at  the  first  two  hotels. 

Post  Office,  St.  Nicholas  Street.  —  Telegraph  Office,  in  the  first 
cross-street  to  the  right  as  we  come  from  the  harbour. 

Cab.  Drive  in  town  1  dr. — Electric  Tramway  in  St.  Andreas  Street, 
parallel  with  the  quay,  and  to  the  upper  town. 

Steamboat  Offices.  Austrian  Lloyd,  St.  Andreas  Street,  next  the  New 
Hotel;  Austro- Americana,  Morphy  &  Son;  Panhellenios,  St.  Andreas  St., 
a  little  to  the  W.  of  the  harbour;  Societa  Nazionale,  St.  Andreas  St. 

Consulates.  British  (next  Gr.-Hot.  de  Patras):  consul,  F.  B.  Wood: 
vice-consul,  G.  W.  Crowe.  —  United  States  (opposite  the  Gr.-Hot.  de  Patras) : 
consul,  A.  B.  Cooke;  vice-consul,  H.  J.  Woodley. 

English  Church  (St.  Andrew's),  near  the  station  (see  above) ;  service 
at  11  a.  m. 

Patras,  the  third  town  of  Greece  (pop.  37,700),  is  surpassed 
in  its  trade  by  the  Piraeus  only.  Currants,  the  staple  produce  of 
the  Peloponnesus,  and  wine  are  the  chief  exports.  The  town  was 
destroyed  by  the  Turks  in  1821,  and  after  the  war  of  independence 
was  rebuilt  with  broad  and  regular  streets  bordered  with  arcades. 

Vatrae  first  rose  to  importance  under  Augustus  and  afterwards  gained 
great  wealth  by  its  trade.  In  1205  the  Franks  made  it  their  base  for  the 
conquest  of  the  Peloponnesus  (Morea).  Since  the  15th  cent,  it  has  belonged 
successively  to  the  Venetians,  the  Pope,  the  Byzantines,  and  the  Turks, 
and  since  1833  to  the  kingdom  of  Greece. 

The  main  street  is  that  of  Hagios  Nikolaos  (St.  Nicholas),  lead- 
ing to  the  S.E.  from  the  quay.  The  third  cross-street  to  the  right 
leads  to  the  Platia  Hagios  Georgios,  containing  the  theatre  and 
law-courts.  The  second  side-street  to  the  left  leads  to  another 
square  with  the  High  School,  which  contains  a  few  ancient  sculp- 
tures. The  first  street  to  the  N.E.  running  parallel  with  the  Hagios 
Nikolaos  Street  leads  to  the  Castle,  once  Venetian,  then  Turkish 
(now  barracks  and  prison),  which  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  gulf. 

Excursion  to  Olympia  by  railway  (5  hrs.),  see  Baedeker's  Greece. 

The  Railway  FROMPATRASToATnENs(1371/2M.,in  6x/2-9l/2hrs.; 
see  p.  496)  is  preferable  to  the  steamers,  as  the  traveller  thus  gains 
several  clear  hours  for  Athens.  The  Corinth  Canal  is  used  by  the 
Societa  Nazionale  and  Achaia  Co.  only.  The  voyage  round  the  Pelo- 
ponnesus to  the  Pir.Tus  (360  M.)  takes  more  than  a  day. 

The  train  skirts  the  narrow  S.  margin  of  the  *Gulf  of  Corinth, 
the  grand  mountains  of  which  recall  those  of  the  Norwegian  fiords. 
Between  the  ruined  fortresses  of  Rhion  and  Antirrhion,  a  little 
way  from  Patras,  the  gulf  narrows  to  l1/*  M.  and  soon,  near  Nau- 
paklos,  contracts  again.   25  M.  Mgion  (Buffet) ;  33  M.  Diakophto, 


502     Route  78.  PATRAS. 

whence  a  rack-and-pinion  line  mounts  the  hills  inland.  Then,  above 
two  deep  hays  on  the  N.  hank,  towers  Mt.  Parnassus.  At  the  E. 
end  of  the  gulf  lies  (81  M.)  Corinth  (halt  of  l/t  hr. ;  Buffet,  dej.  4  dr.). 
In  the  isthmus  of  Corinth  the  train  crosses  the  Corinth  Canal  (33/4  M. 
long,  25  yds.  wide,  26  ft.  deep)  hy  a  bridge  170  ft.  high,  and  then 
skirts  the  N.  hank  of  the  Saronic  Gulf  (p.  494).  On  the  right  the 
eye  ranges  as  far  as  the  mountains  of  the  Argolis  peninsula  and 
iEgina.  Beyond  (108  M.)  Megara  we  near  the  N.  coast  of  Salamis. 
Beyond  (1201J2  M.)  Eleusis  the  train  turns  inland  and  passes  through 
the  depression  between  (r.)  Mt.  /Egaleos  (p.  494)  and  (1.)  Mt.  Par- 
nes  into  the  Attic  plain.  Arrival  at  (lS7lj2  M.)  Athens,  Peloponne- 
sian  Station,  see  below  (hotel-agents  in  waiting;  carr.  2  dr.). 


Most  Steamers  (see  p.  501)  set  out  in  a  W.  direction  from  the 
Gulf  of  Patras,  holding  straight  out  to  Kephallenia  and  keeping 
distant  Ithaca  to  the  right.  They  then  steer  to  the  S.  between  the 
promontory  of  Chelonatas,  the  W.  point  of  the  Peloponnesus,  and  the 
island  of  Zante  or  Zakynthos.  Beyond  the  cape  and  the  little  har- 
bour-town of  Katakolo,  the  calling-place  for  Pyrgos  and  Olympia 
(p.  501),  the  coast  recedes  and  forms  the  sweeping  curve  of  the 
Gulf  of  Kyparissia;  behind  rise  the  heights  of  the  Lykaeon 
(4659  ft.).  Later  on  we  pass  the  Strophades  on  the  right.  At  the 
extremity  of  the  Gulf  of  Kyparissia  the  JEgaleon  (4003  ft.)  marks 
the  beginning  of  the  Messenian  Peninsula.  The  steamers  double 
the  S.  point  and  from  here  to  the  Piraeus  their  course  is  the  same 
as  that  of  the  Naples  boats  (see  pp.  493,  494). 


79.  Athens.f 

Statiohs.  Peloponnesian  (PI.  B,  1),  for  Patras,  etc.,  on  the  N.W.  side 
of  the  town.  —  Piraeus  Railway,  see  p.  503.  —  Tickets  also  at  the  tourist- 
agencies,  see  504. 

Hotels.  At  most  of  the  hotels  it  is  usual  to  arrange  for  a  fixed 
charge  per  day;  at  the  chief  English  and  French  are  spoken;  charges 
mostly  in  gold,  that  is,  in  francs  instead  of  drachmae;  charges  higher  dur- 
ing the  Olympic  games.  *H6t.  de  la  Grasde-Bretaghe  (PI.  b;  F,  5), 
Place  de  la  Constitution,  opposite  the  Palace,  E.  from  7V-2»  B.  2,  dej.  5, 
D.  6,  pens.  1772-30  fr. ;  *Gr.-H6t.  d'Angleterre  (PI.  a;  F,  5),  Place  de  la 
Constitution,  cor.  of  the  Rue  d'Hermes,  pens.  17V»-25  fr.;  *Palace  Hotel 

f  Money.  Greece  belongs  to  the  Latin  Monetary  Convention.  The  franc 
is  called  a  drachme  (dr.;  pi.  drachmaes),  the  centime  leptdn  (1.;  pi.  lepta). 
The  currency  is  chiefly  paper  (notes  of  1,  2,  and  5  dr.),  and  the  chief 
banks  issue  also  their  own  notes  (for  10,  25,  100,  500  dr.,  etc.).  In 
nickel  there  are  coins  of  5  1.  (penddra,  a  sou  or  soldo),  10  1.  (dekdra), 
and  20  1. ;  in  copper,  1,  2,  5,  and  10  lepta.  The  only  silver  coins  of  full 
value  are  the  5  fr.  pieces.  It  is  safest  to  decline  all  foreign  silver.  The 
present  exchange  (1911)  for  the  English  pound  is  about  25  paper  dr.,  for 
the  gold  20  fr.  piece  20  dr. 


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ATHENS.  75.  Route.     503 

(PI.  p;  E,  4),  Rue  du  Stade  18,  R.  5-10,  B.  1V2,  de\j.  4,  D.  5,  pens,  from 
12  fr. ;  these  three  are  of  the  first  class.  —  *Toi;rist  Hotel  (PI.  t;  E.  5), 
cor.  of  the  Rue  d'Hermes  and  Rue  de  la  Boul£,  R.  3-8,  B.  1,  dcj.  il/2, 
D.  5,  pens.  10-15  fr.;  Grand-Hotel.  (PI.  d:  F,  5),  Place  de  la  Constn 
cor.  of  Rue  du  Stade,  R.  3-6,  B.  l'/4,  dej.  3»/2,  D.  41/2,  pens.  8-12  fr.; 
HOt.  des  Ethangers  &  Splendid  (PI.  c;  F,  6),  Place  de  la  Constitution, 
cor.  of  Rue  des  l'hilhellencs,  R.  5-7,  B.  lVg,  de\j.  4,  D.  5,  pens.  10-15  fr. ; 
*Hot.  de  la  Minerve  (PI.  g;  F,  5),  Rue  du  Stade  5,  near  Place  de  la 
Constitution,  pens,  from  12  tr.,  also  R.  from  4  dr.  out  of  the  season; 
*H6t.  Hermes  (PI.  s;  E,  3),  Boulevard  de  PUniversite"  46,  pens,  from 
10  fr.,  also  R.  without  board  from  3  fr.,  B.  1  fr.  20  c,  d(5j.  3V2,  D.  4»/g  fr. ; 
♦Hot.  d'Athenes  (PI.  f ;  E,  4),  cor.  of  Rue  du  Stade  and  Rue  de  Korais, 
R.  3-6  dr.,  B.  1  dr.  20  1.,  dej.  4,  D.  5,  pens.  10-14  dr.,  or  less  for  some  stay, 
R.  alone,  out  of  season,  from  3  dr.;  these  three  are  good  second-class  inns 
in  the  Italian  style,  with  restaurants;  Hot.  Royal  (PI.  r;  F,  5),  Rue  du 
Stade  9,  with  garden,  R.  4-10,  B.  1,  d<5j.  3l/2,  D-  *>  pens.  10-12  fr. ;  Hot.- 
Peks.  St.  Georges  (PI.  h;  E,  F,  5),  Rue  du  Stade,  beside  the  Parliament 
House.  R.  3-5,  B.l,  dej.  37s,  D.  4,  pens.  8-15  fr. ;  *H6t.  Imperial  CP1.  i;  F,  5), 
Rue  Karageorgevitch,  R.  2-10,  pens.  8-12  fr. ;  Hot.  National  (PL  q;  E.  J  . 
Rue  du  Stade  30,  R.  (from  3  dr.)  and  B.  (1V2  dr.)  only,  good.  — In  the 
warm  season  a  mosquito-curtain  (kunupiera)  should  be  asked  for. 

Pensions,  recommended  for  a  stay  of  some  time.  Maison  Merlin 
(PI.  G,  o),  cor.  of  the  Rues  de  Kanari  and  de  Sekeri;  Pens.  MacTaggavt, 
Rue  du  Stade  12,  opposite  the  Parliament,  pens,  from  8  fr.;  both  Engiish. 

Restaurants.  At  the  Hotels  de  la  Minerve,  Hermes,  and  d'Athenes, 
soe  above;  also  good,  in  the  Rue  du  Stade:  No.  6,  Averof,  with  garden; 
No.  24,  Cite',  with/garden;  at  corner  of  the  Rue  de  Patisia,  Kapses;  in 
Rue  de  Themistoc'Ie,  Sintrhanes.    French  usually  understood. 

Caf^s.  Zachardtos,  Place  de  la  Constitution,  coiner  of  the  Rue 
du  Stade  (music  on  summer  evenings);  Zachardtos,  Place  Onionia,  N. 
side;  at  the  Zappion  (p.  508),  where  there  is  always  a  cool  sea-breeze. — 
Tea  Rooms,     Khrysdkis,  Place  de  la  Constitution. 

"Wine.  Achaia  Wine  Co.,  Rue  de  Nike"  1  (PI.  E,  5,  6). —Bars 
Papagianiialis,  Rue  du  Stade  40;  Apotsos,  Rue  du  Stade  9;  Skekos,  Rue 
Kruageorgevitoh  (Greek  beer  30  1.  per  glass). 

The  "Water  of  the  Aqueduct  (p.  528)  is,  especially  in  the  hot  months, 
not  above  reproach.  The  hotels  and  restaurants  supply  good  water  from 
the  Marusi  spring.  The  mineral  waters  of  Stiriza  and  Lutraki  cost 
about  25  1.  per  half-bottle. 

Cabs.  To  or  from  Peloponnesian  Station  2  dr.;  short  drive  in  town 
1  dr.,  longer  l'/2  dr.;  to  the  Acropolis  2  dr.;  to  the  Piraeus  with  luggage 
6-10  dr.;  drives  in  town  and  environs  20-30  dr.  per  day;  per  hr.  3,  after- 
noon 4  dr.  (with  one  horse  cheaper).    Agreement  advisable. 

Tramways  (uumbered;  fare  10-15,  transfer  15  1.;  comp.  Plan).  The 
chief  lines  are:  1.  From  Academy  (PI.  F,  4)  via.  Place  de  la  Constitution, 
Amalia  St.,  Rue  de  Phalere  (PI.  D,  8),  Tsitsiphi6s  (on  the  coast),  and 
then  alternately  to  the  left  to  Old  Phdleron  and  to  the  right  to  Neio  Phd- 
blron;  fare  25  1.  —  From  Place  Omonia:  2.  via  Rue  du  Stade,  Place  de  la 
Constitution  (PI.  F,  5,  6).  and  Rue  des  Pbilhcllines  to  the  English  Church 
;  3.  via  the  National  Museum  to  Patisia  (comp.  PI.  E,  1);  4.  via 
the  Rue  du  PirtSe,  Dipylon,  Theseion  Station  (PI.  B,  5),  Slonastcraki  Station, 
and  the  Rue  d'Athena  to  Place  Omdnia;  5.  via  the  Rue  Constantin  to 
Peloponnesian  Station  (PI.  B,  1).— 12.  From  Place  de'la  Constitution 
(PI.  F,  5,  6)  via  the  Rue  des  Philliellenes  and  Boulevard  Olga  (PI.  F, 
G,  7,  8)  to  the  Stadion  (PI.  G,  H,  8).  — 16.  From  the  Academy  (PI.  F,  4) 
to  the  Acropolis. 

Electric  Railway  to  New  PhdUron  and  the  Piraeus  every  1/i  hr., 
in  18min.  (fare  65  or  45  1.,  return  1  dr.  15  or  80  1.;  to  Phaleron  40 
return  75  or  55  1.).     Three  stations  in  Athens:  Omdnia  (PI.  D,  3),  llavu- 
st-rdki  (PI.  C,  5),   and  Theseion  (PI.  B,  5);  fare  between  these  5-10  1.; 
the  ticket-clerks  speak  French. 


504     Route  79.  ATHENS.  Practical  Notes. 

Tourist  Agents.  Thos.  Cook  &  Son,  Place  de  la  Constitution,  corner 
of  Rue  d'Hermes;  Ghiolman  Bros.,  T.  D.  Ralli,  both  same  Place. — For 
steamboat-agents  at  the  Piraeus,  see  p.  495. 

Banks  (9-12  and  3-5;  in  summer,  forenoon  only).  Banque  Nationale 
(PL  D,  3),  Rue  d'Eole;  Banque  aV Orient  (PL  D,  3,  4),  Rue  de  Sophoclc; 
Banque  cVAthenes  (PL  E,  4),  Rue  du  Stade  32;  Banque  Ionienne  (PL  E,  4), 
same  street,  No.  14. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (PL  D,  3),  opposite  Banque  Nationale. 
Letter  under  15  grammes  within  Postal  Union  25  L,  in  Greece  20,  in 
Athens  10  1. ;  registration  25  1. ;  deltaiion  or  post-card,  10  or  5  1. 

Theatres  (Nov.  to  May).  Royal  National  (PL  C,  2),  Rue  Constantin; 
Theatre  Municipal  (PL  D,  3).  Several  summer-theatres.  —  Bands  play 
every  summer  evening  in  the  Place  de  la  Constitution,  at  the  Zappion 
(p.  508),  and  at  New  Phaleron  (p.  528).  Military  band,  Place  de  la  Con- 
stitution, Sun.  and  Thurs.  afternoons. 

Photographs.  Barth  &  Eleutherotidakis,  booksellers,  Place  de  la 
Constitution  (Alinari's  and  Boissonnas's  photographs,  etc.);  Rhomaides 
(Pinacotheque  Hellenique),  same  square ;  Simiriotes,  Rue  des  Philhellenes  2. 
—  Requisites:  Tavanakes  &  G corgantopulos,  Rue  d'Hermes  12;  Pestarini, 
Rue  du  Stade  2 ;  Ragnio,  Rue  du  Stade,  opposite  the  Parliament. 

Legations  and  Consulates.  Great  Britain  :  Minister,  Sir  Francis 
E.  H.  Elliot,  Rue  de  Dragatsani  8  (PL  E,  4).  Consul,  T.  Cornish.— 
United  States:  Minister,  G.  H.  Moses,  Rue  Sina  16.  Consul-General, 
W.  H.  Gale,  Rue  Regilles  6;  vice-consul,  B.  Melissinos. 

English  Church  [St.  Paul's;  PL  F,  6,  7),  Rue  des  Philhellenes, 
corner  of  Palace  Garden;  chaplain,  W.  A.  Gardner,  Rue  du  Lycee  1. 
Services  at  8  and  10.30  a.m.,  and  6  p.m. 

Scientific  Institutions,  all  under  supervision  of  the  General  Ephoros 
or  director  Dr.  P.  Kavvculias;  office  in  the  Ministere  des  Cultes,  Rue 
d'Hermes.  The  Greek  Archaeological  Society,  Rue  de  l'Universite  20 
(PL  P,  4),  is  the  central  authority  for  antiquarian  research  in  Greece.  — 
British  School  of  Athens  (PL  I,  4),  Rue  de  Speusippe;  American  School 
of  Classical  Studies,  same  street;  also  French,  German,  and  Austrian 
institutes.     National  Library  (PL  E,  3);  open  19-2,  3-5,  and  8-11. 

Collections.  Acropolis  Museum  (p.  519)  and  National  Archaeological 
Museum  (p.  526),  on  week-days  from  9  (Dec.  and  Jan.  10)  to  12,  and  from  3 
(Oct. -March  from  2,  June-Aug.  from  4)  till  sunset.  On  Sun.  and  holidays 
the  National  Museum  is  open  10-12,  and  the  Acropolis  Museum  in  the  after- 
noon only.  Adm.  free  (sticks  and  umbrellas  20  L).  —  Numismatic  Museum 
(p.  525),  Wed.  and  Sat.  9  (or  10)-12  and  3-6,  free.—  Historical  and  Eth- 
nographical Museum  (p.  526),   daily  except  on  holidays,   2-5,   adm.  50  1. 

Plan  of  Visit.  Three  Days  :  1st.  *Acropiolis  (p.  512),  * Acropolis 
Museum  (p.  519) ;  afternoon,  Lykabettos  (p.  528).  —  2nd.  *National  Museum 
(p.  526);  afternoon,  Stadion  (p.  509),  Olympieion  (p.  509),  Monument  of 
Lysikrates  (p.  510),  Theatre  of  Dionysos  (p.  510),  *Odeion  (p.  511),  Areo- 
pagus  (p.  512),  Acropolis  by  sunset.  —  3rd.  Boul.  de  V  Universite  (p.  525), 
region  to  the  N.  of  the  Acropolis  (pp.  520  et  seq.);  afternoon,  *Theseio?i 
(p.  521),  *Dipylon  (p.  522),  Hill  ofthePnyx,  Tomb  of  Philopappos  (p.  524). 

If  11/2  Uay  only  be  available  we  first  drive  to  the  Acropolis  (p.  512), 
to  which  we  devote  2  hrs. ;  then  visit  the  Odeion  (p.  511),  the  Theatre  of 
Dionysos  (p.  510),  the  Monument  of  Lysikrates  (p.  510),  the  Olympieion 
(p.  509)  with  Hadrian's  Arch  (p.  508),  and  the  Stadion  (p.  509);  we  then 
drive  past  the  Totcer  of  the  Winds  (p.  520),  the  Market  Gate  (p.  521),  and 
Hadrian's  Stoa  (p.  520)  to  the  Theseion  (p.  521),  and  if  possible  also  to 
the  ancient  Cemetery  outside  the  Dipylon  (p.  523).  Lastly,  in  half-a-day, 
we  may  drive  through  the  Boul.  de  V  University  (p.  525),  glance  at  the 
chief  modern  buildings,  and  visit  the  National  Museum  (p.  526). 

Athens  (130-492  ft. ;  pop.  167,500),  modem  Greek  Aihdnai,  lies 
33/4  M.  from  the  Saronic  Gulf,  in  the  great  Attic  plain,  which  is 
closed  on  the  W.  by  JEgaleos  and  Parties  and  on  the  E.  by  Hymettos 


Situation.  ATHENS.  79.  Route.     505 

and  Pentelikon.  The  city  is  bounded  on  the  S.E.  by  the  llissos  and 
on  the  W.  by  the  Kephisos.  The  valleys  of  these  streams  are  separ- 
ated by  the  Turkovuni  hills,  whose  S.  spur,  the  Lykabettos,  rises 
abruptly  above  Athens  on  the  E.  A  broad  saddle  separates  the  latter 
from  the  rock  of  the  Acropolis  and  a  group  of  hills  farther  to  theW. ; 
these  include  the  Philopappos  or  Museion,  the  Pnyx,  and  the 
Nymphs'  hills,  and  slope  gently  down  to  the  sea. 

The  Athens  of  antiquity  circled  round  the  Acropolis  and  in- 
cluded the  hills  on  its  S.W.  and  W.  sides  (see  Plan,  where  traces 
01  ancient  walls  and  the  probable  direction  of  the  streets  are  in- 
dicated). The  modern  city  extends  to  the  N.  of  the  Acropolis,  far 
towards  the  plain  of  the  Kephisos.  Down  to  1834  Athens  was  a  poor 
village.  Now,  as  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Hellas,  it  has  devel- 
oped into  one  of  the  finest  cities  of  the  E.  Mediterranean,  and  is 
quite  European  in  character. 

The  main  street  is  the  Rue  du  Stade,  connecting  the  Syntagma 
Square  (Place  de  la  Constitution ;  PL  F ,  5 ,  6)  with  the  Omonia 
Square  (Place  de  la  Concorde;  PI.  D,  2,  3).  This  street  and  the 
broad  E.  end  of  the  Rue  d'Hermes  (see  below)  contain  the  principal 
shops.  The  Syntagma  Square  forms  the  centre  of  traffic.  Parallel  with 
the  Rue  du  Stade  runs  the  Boul.  de  VUniversite  (  Panepistemion), 
i  ii  which  the  chief  public  buildings  are  situated.  This  new  E.  quarter, 
known  as  Neapolis,  is  adjoined,  to  the  W.  of  the  Rue  du  Stade,  by 
the  older  business  quarte'',  the  main  arteries  of  which  are  the  Rue 
d'Hermds  (PI.  B-E,  5;  p.  520),  running  to  the  W.  from  the  Syn- 
tagma Square,  and  the  Rue  d' Athena  (PI.  D,  3-5),  running  from  the 
Place  de  la  Concorde  to  the  S.  and  intersecting  the  Rue  d'Hermes 
at  right  angles.  Parallel  to  the  latter  is  the  Rue  d'Eole  (p.  520), 
which  leads  to  the  N.,  past  the  National  Museum,  to  Patisia,  and 
is  prolonged  to  the  S.  to  the  Tower  of  the  Winds  at  the  foot  of  the 
Acropolis.  The  Pirreus  is  the  chief  seat  of  industry  and  the  whole- 
Bale  trade. 

Histoky.  The  Athenians  prided  themselves  on  being  the  aboriginal 
inhabitants  of  the  country,  whose  earliest  kings  are  said  to  have  been 
Cecrops,  builder  of  the  Acropolis,  Erechtheus,  Pandion,  and  ^Egeus.  Re- 
search, however,  attributes  the  earliest  settlement  on  the  Acropolis  to  the 
Pelasgians,  afterwards  expelled  by  Ionian  invaders.  Theseus,  the  fifth 
king,  is  regarded  as  the  actual  founder  of  Athens.  To  him  Thucydides 
assigns  the  Syncekismos  (in  1259  B.C.,  it  is  said)  or  subordination  of  all 
the  Attic  communities  to  Alliens  as  their  capital.  Originally  consisting 
of  the  Acropolis  only,  the  city  gradually  extended  in  all  directions. 

After  the  self-sacrifice  of  Kodros  (1068  B.C.)  the  kings  were  succeeded 
by  Archons,  first  of  the  house  of  Kodros  and  afterwards  elected  from  the 
ranks  of  the  Eupatridje  (landed  nobles).  Internal  dissensions  and  the 
capricious  rule  of  this  aristocratic  oligarchy  led  at  the  end  of  the  7th  cent, 
to  the  codification  of  the  existing  law  of  Athens  by  Drcekon,  a  measure 
succeeded  in  594  B.C.  by  the  democratic  reforms  of  Solon.  Eligibility 
for  the  highest  offices  was  henceforth  to  depend,  not  on  birth,  but  on 
the  possession  of  property  and  the  payment  of  taxes  ('timocracy').  The 
judges  were  to  be  chosen  by  lot,  and  a  council  (Boulc)  of  400  members 
(Bouleuta;)  was  placed  over  the  archons  as  the  supreme  governing  body. 


506     Route  79.  ATHENS.  History. 

In  5G1  B.C.,  however,  while  Solon  was  still  alive,  Peisistratos,  an 
ambitious  but  humane  man  and  a  patron  of  art,  succeeded  in  usurping 
the  position  of  tyrant.  He  and  his  sons  Hippias  and  Eipparchos  bril- 
liantly developed  the  city.  Roads  were  made  to  the  various  'denioi'  or 
communities  of  Attica,  and  a  copious  supply  of  water  was  brought  by  a 
subterranean  conduit  from  Hymettos.  The  Olympieion  was  begun,  the 
ancient  temple  of  Athena  on  the  Acropolis,  the  'hekatompedon',  was  en- 
closed with  a  colonnade,  and  other  large  buildings  were  erected.  All 
this  splendour,  however,  did  not  compensate  for  the  want  of  a  free  con- 
stitution; in  514  Hipparchos  was  assassinated  by  Harmodios  and  Aristo- 
geiton  and  in  510  Hippias  was  banished  with  the  aid  of  the  Spartans. 
After  further  democratic  reforms,  and  after  various  wars  with  adjoining 
states,  which  led  to  the  development  of  the  Athenian  fleet,  the  little  Attic 
state  obtained  the  leadership  of  the  whole  nation  in  the  Persian  wars. 
In  order  to  punish  Athens  for  supporting  the  revolt  of  the  Greek  towns 
in  Asia  Minor  (198),  Darius  I.,  king  of  Persia,  sent  an  army  of  over 
200,000  men  with  a  huge  fleet,  under  Datis  and  Artaphernes,  across  the 
^Egean  Sea  in  490.  Contrary  to  all  expectation  the  Athenians  under 
Miltiades,  assisted  by  the  Plateans  only,  defeated  the  immense  Persian 
army  on  the  plains  of  Marathon.  Even  more  glorious,  and  still  further 
confirming  the  hegemony  of  Athens,  was  the  result  of  the  campaign  of 
Xerxes  against  Greece  in  480.  After  the  heroic  resistance  of  Leonidas 
and  his  Spartans  at  Thermopylae  had  been  overcome  by  the  slaughter  of 
the  devoted  band  the  whole  of  the  huge  army  and  armament  of  the  Great 
King  bore  down  upon  Attica  to  avenge  the  defeat  of  Marathon.  The 
Athenians  took  to  their  ships.  The  city  was  occupied  by  the  Persians, 
the  Acropolis  captured,  and  the  temples  burned  down.  But  the  decisive 
naval  victory  won  at  Salamis  (480),  and  due  to  the  unflinching  courage 
and  pertinacity  of  Themistokles,  broke  the  power  of  the  Persians.  The 
citizens  had  scarcely  re-entered  Athens  when  they  were  again  compelled 
to  retire  before  the  army  of  Mardonios,  but  their  great  victory  at  Plata?a 
in  479  finally  relieved  them  from  the  menace  of  a  Persian  yoke. 

Having  taken  the  most  glorious  part  in  these  terrible  struggles  Athens 
now  became  the  natural  leader  of  the  Greeks  in  the  war  of  retaliation. 
In  474  this  leadership  found  expression  in  the  foundation  of  the  Attic 
and  Delian  naval  league.  The  zenith  of  the  Athenian  power  coincided 
with  the  rebuilding  of  the  city,  which  progressed  rapidly  in  spite  of  the 
opposition  of  the  Spartans.  The  fortification  both  of  the  city  and  its 
harbour,  which  the  genius  of  Themistokles  had  removed  to  the  Piraeus, 
was  taken  in  hand  with  special  vigour,  and  in  460-445  the  'Long  Walls' 
were  erected,  stretching  from  the  Piraeus  and  from  Phaleron  to  Athens 
itself.  Next,  under  the  rule  of  Perikles,  arose  the  magnificent  buildings 
on  the  Acropolis.  A  colossal  statue  of  Athena  Promachos  in  gold  and 
ivory,  by  Phidias,  was  erected  out  of  the  Persian  booty  in  438,  when  the 
cella  of  the  gTeat  Parthenon  also  was  probably  completed.  In  437-432 
were  erected  the  stately  Propylaea,  and  lastly  the  Erechtheion,  begun 
probably  soon  after  the  peace  of  Nikias  (421)  but  not  completed  till  407. 

The  Athenian  democracy  had  attained  its  fullest  development  and  its 
widest  sway  when  the  long-standing  antagonism  of  Sparta  led  to  open 
war  between  the  rival  states  in  431.  In  the  second  year  of  the  war 
Athens  was  visited  by  a  terrible  plague,  which  carried  off,  among  many 
others,  Perikles,  the  only  man  of  genius  powerful  enough  to  control  the 
democracy,  the  deterioration  of  which  may  be  dated  from  his  death. 
After  many  vicissitudes,  including  the  disastrous  campaign  in  Sicily 
undertaken  by  the  advice  of  AlJcibiades  (comp.  p.  163),  the  Peloponnesian 
war  ended  in  404  with  the  utter  humiliation  of  Athens.  The  fortifications 
of  the  city  and  the  Pirasus  had  to  be  demolished,  the  fleet  to  be  given 
up,  and  an  oligarchic  government,  that  of  the  'Thirty  Tyrants',  to  be 
endured  at  the  bidding  of  Sparta.  In  403  Thrasyboidos  restored  the 
democracy;  in  393  Konon  won  a  naval  victory  over  the  Spartans  at 
Knidos,   and  rebuilt  the  Long  Walls;   but  all  this  was  but   a  brief  and 


History  ATIIENS.  79.  Route.     507 

feeble  reflex  of  the  ancient  glory  of  the  state.  In  vain  Demosthenes  ex- 
horted his  fellow-citizens  to  vigorous  resistance  against  Philip  of  Macedon; 
when  they  at  last  roused  themselves  it  was  too  late.  In  338  Greek  in- 
dependence received  its  death-blow  on  the  battle-field  of  Chseronea. 

Although  Athens  never  again  recovered  her  political  importance  her 
material  prosperity  survived  almost  unimpaired  for  several  centuries  moie. 
In  the  year  of  the  battle  of  Chaaronea  began  the  judicious  financial  ad- 
ministration of  the  orator  Lykourgos,  who  completed  the  theatre  previously 
begun  on  the  S.E.  slope  of  the  Acropolis,  built  the  Stadion,  and  filled  the 
arsenals  and  harbour  of  the  PiriEiis  with  military  stores  and  with  ships. 
After  a  fruitless  revolt  in  322  (the  'Lamian  War')  Athens  was  garrisoned 
with  Macedonian  troops.  Yet  Athens  continued  to  live  and  thrive  on  the 
intellectual  heritage  stored  up  within  her  walls  ever  since  the  days  of 
the  Persian  and  Peloponnesian  wars.  As  the  home  of  the  greatest  poets 
of  antiquity,  as  the  seat  of  the  far-famed  schools  of  philosophy  and  rhe- 
toric founded  by  Plato,  Aristotle,  and  Zeno,  and  as  a  gTeat  centre  of  art 
and  architecture,  she  still  had  many  visitors  and  admirers.  Foreign  pat- 
rons lavished  gifts  upon  her  or  erected  sumptuous  buildings  in  the  city. 
To  Ptolemy  Philadelphos  of  Egypt  (281-246)  she  owed  a  gymnasion  wiih 
a  library,  to  the  Pergamenian  kings  handsome  colonnades,  and  to  the 
Syrian  king  Antiochos  IV.  Epiphanes  (175-161)  the  Olympieion. 

The  dominion  of  Macedonia  was  followed  by  that  of  Rome,  in  spite 
of  the  nominal  declaration  of  the  independence  of  Greece  made  by  the  consul 
Flamininus  in  196  B.C.  After  the  overthrow  of  the  Achaean  League,  of 
which  Athens  was  a  member,  and  the  destruction  of  Corinth  in  146  Greeco 
and  Macedonia  were  formed  into  a  Roman  province.  Athens  had  to  pay 
heavily  for  the  ill-considered  help  it  afforded  Mithridates,  King  of  Pontus, 
who  chose  Greece  as  the  battle-field  on  which  to  contest  with  Rome  the 
sovereignty  of  Asia.  The  city  was  stormed  and  sacked  by  Sulla  in  86  B.  C, 
and  the  fortifications  of  the  Piraeus  were  finally  demolished.  The  city 
was,  however,  favoured  by  Caesar  and  the  Roman  emperors.  The  chief 
buildings  of  this  period  are  the  Tower  of  the  Winds,  the  Market  Gate 
owing  its  origin  to  donations  made  by  Caesar  and  Augustus,  the  statue  of 
Agrippa,  the  round  temple  of  Roma  and  Augustus,  the  new  marble  steps 
of  the  Propylaea,  and  the  monument  of  Philopappos. 

A  new  period  in  the  history  of  art  was  inaugurated  by  Hadrian 
A.D.  117-38),  the  friend  of  Greece,  to  whom  countless  statues  were  erected 
under  the  titles  of  the  Olympian,  the  Founder,  the  Liberator.  A  whole 
quarter  of  the  city,  to  the  S.E.  of  the  castle,  was  called  after  him,  as 
may  still  be  read  on  Hadrian's  Arch.  In  this  quarter  rose  the  temple 
of  Zeus  completed  by  him.  In  the  old  town  he  founded  a  library,  a 
gymnasion,  and  a  pantheon,  and  Athens  is  still  supplied  with  water  by 
his  aqueduct.  At  the  same  period  Herodes  Atticits  (101-77),  a  rich  citizen, 
built  the  odeion  named  after  him.  Lastly  Marcus  Aurelius  (161-80),  from 
whose  time  dates  the  description  of  the  city  by  Pausanias,  summoned 
new  teachers  to  the  Athenian  school  of  philosophy.  From  that  period 
begins  the  gradual  stagnation  and  decay  of  the  city. 

In  267  Athens  was  captured  by  the  Ileruli  and  Goths.  In  395  and  396 
Alaric  with  his  Visigoths  appeared  before  its  gates,  but  spared  it  on 
payment  of  tribute.  From  the  5th  cent,  onwards  numerous  works  of  art 
were  removed  from  Athens  to  Constantinople,  as  had  been  partly  done 
by  Constantine  himself,  to  grace  the  buildings  of  New  Rome.  In  529 
Justinian  gave  the  death-blow  to  the  intellectual  life  of  Athens  by  closing 
the  schools  of  philosophy.  Athens  Bank  to  the  position  of  a  Byzantine 
provincial  town.  In  1019  Basil  II.  held  a  triumphal  festival  in  tho 
Parthenon,  which  had  long  been  used  as  a  church.  In  1040  the  Northmen 
under  Harald  Haardraade  took  the  Piraeus  by  storm. 

After  the  conquest  of  Constantinople  by  the  Latin  Crusaders  in  1204 
(p.  542)  Athens  fell  into  the  hands  of  Frankish  nobles  known  as  dukes 
after  1258.  At  length,  in  1456,  after  a  vigorous  defence,  Athens  was 
captured  by  the  Turks,  and  thenceforth  belonged  to  the  pashalik  of  Negro- 

Baedekkk's  Mediterranean.  33 


508     Route  79.  ATHENS.  Eistory. 

ponte  (Euboea).  But  two  events  in  the  next  three  centuries  and  a  half 
deserve  mention;  it  was  attacked  hy  the  Venetians  in  1466  and  it  was 
captured  and  occupied  for  a  short  time  by  their  general  Francesco  Morosini 
in  1687.  On  the  latter  occasion  the  Parthenon,  hitherto  uninjured,  was 
blown  up,  while  the  Propylaea  had  already  been  destroyed  by  an  earlier 
explosion  (coinp.  p.  513).  Athens  then  fell  into  complete  oblivion  and 
had  to  be  rediscovered  by  the  explorers  and  scholars  of  the  19th  century. 

The  Greeks  began  their  war  of  independence  in  1821,  and  in  1822 
captured  the  Acropolis  of  Athens.  The  Turks,  however,  stormed  the 
town  in  1826,  and  in  1827  took  the  Acropolis  also  after  a  brave  resistance. 
The  whole  of  Hellas  thus  fell  again  under  the  Turkish  yoke.  But  the 
( I  reat  Powers  now  intervened.  In  1833  the  Acropolis  was  evacuated  by 
the  Turks,  and  entered  by  the  Bavarian  troops  of  the  new  king,  Otho. 
In  1834  Athens  was  made  the  capital  of  the  new  kingdom,  and  since  1835 
has  been  the  seat  of  government.  This  distinction  it  owes  to  its  historic 
fame,  its  site  being  geographically  and  economically  unfavourable  for  a 
great  modern  city.  It  has  attracted  neither  wholesale  trade  nor  industry, 
and  Attica  itself  is  by  no  means  productive. 

Books.  Of  the  extensive  literature  on  Athens  the  following  books 
may  be  useful  to  the  traveller:  Stuart's  and  Revett's  'The  Antiquities 
of  Athens'  (4  vols. ;  rev.  ed.,  1825-30) ;  Leake's  'Topography  of  Athens' 
(London,  1821);  Wordsworth's  'Athens  and  Attica'  (4th  ed.,  1869);  Dyer's 
'Ancient  Athens'  (London,  1873);  Harrison's  and  Verrall's  'Mythology 
and  Monuments  of  Ancient  Athens'  (London,  1890);  E.  A.  Gardner's 
'Ancient  Athens'  (London,  1902). 


a.   "Walk  from  the  Palace  round  the  S.  Side 
of  the  Acropolis. 

The  Place  de  la  Constitution,  or  Syntagma  Square  (PL  F, 

5,  G;  p.  505),  with  its  hotels  and  cai'6s,  is  bounded  by  gardens  on 
the  E. ,  beyond  which  rises  the  Royal  Palace  (PL  F,  G,  5,  6), 
built  of  limestone  and  Pentelic  marble  (1834-8),  with  a  Doric 
portico.  The  trellised  walks  of  the  palace -garden  (PI.  F,  G,  6; 
entr.  to  the  right,  in  the  Rue  de  Kephisia;  adm.  Wed.  and  Frid., 
4-6,  in  winter  3-5;  smoking  prohibited)  afford  shady  promenades; 
from  the  S.  part,  with  its  fine  palms,  we  get  picturesque  glimpses 
of  the  columns  of  the  Olympieion,  the  Acropolis,  and  the  sea. 

From  Syntagma  Square  the  brop.d  Rue  des  Philhellenes  leads 
to  the  S.,  past  the  Russian  Church  and  the  English  Church  (PI.  F, 

6,  7),  a  tasteful  Gothic  edifice,  to  the  beautiful  grounds  of  the 
Zappion  (PL  F,  7),  an  exhibition-building  opened  in  1888. 

The  two  statues  adorning  the  flight  of  steps  represent  the  brothers 
Zappas,  who  founded  the  building.  At  the  W.  angle  of  the  grounds  is 
a  pleasing  Statue  of  Byron  (PI.  E,  7).     Cafe  on  the  Terrace  (p.  503). 

To  the  S.  we  have  a  view  of  the  sea;  to  the  E.  (left)  rises  Hy- 
mottos.  In  the  foreground,  adjoining  the  Olympieion  (p.  509), 
is  *Hadrian's  Arch  (PL  E,  7),  erected  either  by  himself  or  his 
successor.  This  gateway,  1472  yds.  broad  and  59  ft.  high,  marked, 
as  the  inscriptions  record,  the  boundary  between  the  older  quarters 
and  the  new  town  of  Hadrian  (p.  507).  It  was  adorned  with  pro- 
jecting Corinthian  columns,  of  which  fragments  of  the  bases  and 


Stadion.  ATHENS.  79.  Route.    509 

the  entablature  alone  survive.  Above  the  gateway  rises  an  attica 
with  three  window-like  apertures  and  a  pediment  in  the  centre. 

The  Olympieion  (PI.  E,  F,  7, 8),  or  Temple  of  the  Olympian 
Zens,  has  been  entirely  destroyed  with  the  exception  of  fifteen 
huge  marble  columns.  The  original  temple  dates  from  the  time 
of  Peisistratos  (ca.  530  B.C.;  p.  506),  but  scarcely  more  than  the 
foundations  were  then  built.  The  work  was  resumed,  ca.  174  B.C., 
by  Antiochos  IV.  Epiphanes,  to  whose  edifice  the  existiug  ruins 
belong,  but  it  was  completed  only  by  Hadrian.  When  the  temple 
was  consecrated  (ca.  129  A.  D.)  the  Athenians  showed  their  gratitude 
by  erecting  a  statue  of  the  emperor  next  to  the  gold  and  ivory  statue 
of  Zeus.  The  temple  rose  on  a  basis  (118  by  45  yds.)  approached 
by  three  steps,  and  was  the  largest  Greek  temple  in  existence  after 
those  of  Ephesus  and  Selinus.  The  W.  and  E.  ends  were  flanked 
with  triple  rows  of  eight  columns,  and  the  N.  and  S.  sides  with 
double  rows  of  twenty;  in  all  there  were  104  Corinthian  columns, 
56'/2  ft.  high  and  56-67  inches  in  diameter. 

The  precincts  of  the  temple  consisted  of  a  large  levelled  plat- 
form, created  by  Hadrian,  224  by  141  yds.,  which  had  to  be  backed 
up  on  the  W.  side  and  at  the  S.E.  corner,  where  it  is  buttressed 
with  huge  substructions.  On  the  N.  side,  in  a  line  with  the  E.  front 
(if  the  temple,  an  entrance  with  four  colnmns  has  been  unearthed. 

The  view  stretches  from  Hymettos  to  the  sea,  with  the  islands  of 
/Egina  and  Hydra  and  the  coast  of  Argolis. 

The  Olga  Boulevard  (PI.  E-G,  7,  8),  on  the  bank  of  the  Ilissos 
(generally  dry),  leads  to  the  E.  from  the  Olympieion  to  the  Stadion 
bridge.    Opposite  the  bridge  is  the  old  Protestant  Cemetery. 

The  -Stadion  (PI.  G,H,8;  adm.  20  1.),  the  scene  of  the  Pana- 
themean  games,  situated  in  a  natural  basin,  was  planned  by  Ly- 
kourgos  (p.  507)  in  330  B.C.  The  scats  and  balustrades  in  Pentelic 
marble  were  added,  about  140  A.  D.,  by  Herodes  Atticus  (p.  507). 
The  great  size  of  the  Stadion  and  the  height  of  its  rows  of  seats 
produce  a  very  imposing  effect,  and  this  is  enhanced  by  the  rich 
marble  decorations,  which  were  renewed  in  1896-190G.  On  its 
completion  the  building  was  inaugurated  in  190G  with  Olympic 
games,  which  are  to  be  held  here  every  four  years.  The  entrance 
consists  of  a  Corinthian  propylseum.  The  race-course,  ascending 
slightly,  is  224  yds.  long  as  far  as  the  semicircular  space  at  the 
S.E.  end  (sphendone),  and  3G'/._,  yds.  in  breadth.  Exclusive  of  bar- 
riers and  corridor,  the  actual  course  was  600  Grteco-Roman  or  584 
Engl.  ft.  (195  yds.)  long,  and  was  divided  into  sections  by  metac 
or  goals,  consisting  of  double  hermse,  two  of  which  have  been  re- 
erected  at  the  semicircular  space.  The  course  is  separated  by  a 
marble  parapet  from  a  corridor,  3  yds.  wide,  affording  access  to 
the  lower  tiers  of  seats.  These  are  24  in  number,  and  higher  np, 
separated  from  them  by  a  broad  passage,  are  20  rows  of  benches, 

33* 


510     Route  79.  ATHENS.  Mon.  of  Lysikrates 

above  which  runs  another  passage  overlooking  the  whole  and  pro- 
tected on  the  outside  by  a  parapet.  There  is  accommodation  for 
50,000  spectators. 

From  Hadrian's  Arch  the  short  Rue  de  Lysicrate  leads  to  the 
N.W.  to  the  beautiful  choragic  *Monumerit  of  Lysikrates 
(PI.  E,  7),  resembling  a  small  round  temple.  This  is  the  oldest  well- 
preserved  monument  in  the  Corinthian  style,  and  once  served  as 
the  library  of  that  French  Capuchin  Convent  where  Lord  Byron 
spent  a  night.  According  to  the  inscription  above  the  half-columns 
on  the  S.E.  side,  it  was  erected  in  335-334  by  a  certain  Lysikrates 
who  had  won  the  victory  in  the  Dionysian  games.  On  a  cubic 
basement  rises  a  round  building  in  Pentelic  marble,  21'/2  ft.  high, 
with  six  Corinthian  half-columns  which  support  a  tripartite  archi- 
trave and  sculptured  frieze.  The  conical  roof,  consisting  of  a 
single  slightly  convex  block  of  marble,  is  crowned  with  a  vigorous 
acanthus  flower,  on  which  once  stood  the  bronze  tripod  won  by 
Lysikrates.  The  frieze,  which  dates  from  the  prime  of  the  school 
of  Praxiteles,  represents  in  very  low  relief,  partly  obliterated,  the 
punishment  of  the  Tyrrhenian  pirates  who  had  robbed  Dionysos; 
before  the  god  converts  them  into  dolphins,  they  are  being  tor- 
mented in  every  possible  way  by  his  attendant  satyrs. 

"We  return  by  the  Rue  de  Byron  (to  the  S.)  to  Amalia  Street, 
in  line  with  which  the  Dionysios  Areopagites  Street  (PI.  D,  C,  7) 
ascends  to  the  Acropolis. 

The  *Theatre  of  Dionysos  (PI.  D,  7),  whose  entrance  we 
soon  reach,  was  once  the  centre  of  the  dramatic  art  of  Greece,  the 
spot  in  which  the  masterpieces  of  jEschylus,  Sophocles,  Euripides, 
and  Aristophanes  first  excited  delight  and  admiration.  From  the 
early  5th  cent,  this  site  was  occupied  by  a  round  enclosed  orchestra 
('dancing  place'),  while  for  each  performance  a  stage  had  to  be  spec- 
ially erected,  the  audience  being  seated  in  a  levelled  hollow  in 
the  Acropolis  hill-side.  In  the  4th  cent.,  mainly  in  the  time  of  Ly- 
kourgos  (p.  507),  tiers  of  stone  seats  and  a  permanent  stage  were 
erected  for  the  first  time.  The  present  semicircular  orchestra,  paved 
with  marble,  and  the  remains  of  the  stage-building  belong  to  Roman 
restorations.  The  Roman  raised  stage  rested  on  a  wall  adorned 
with  good  sculptures  of  the  time  of  Nero.  During  the  Greek  age 
the  actors  and  the  chorus,  the  former  wearing  the  raised  cothurnus, 
performed  on  the  level  space  in  the  orchestra,  while  the  skene  or 
stage  served  them  as  a  kind  of  booth.  The  proskenion,  or  wooden 
front  of  the  stage,  formed  the  background  of  the  play,  and  was  only 
superseded  by  a  stone  wall  with  columns  at  the  close  of  the  late 
Hellenistic  period.  Between  the  rectangular  wings  of  the  stage 
(paraskenia)  and  the  lowest  seats  for  the  spectators  opened  the 
entrances  for  the  chorus  (parodoi).  The  auditorium  was  divided  by 
narrow  flights  of  steps  into  13  'wedges'  (kerkides)  and  by  two  cross 


Theatre  of  Dionysos.  ATHENS.  7$.  Route.      51 1 

passages  (diazomata)  into  three  main  sections.  The  seats,  originally 
for  14-17,000  spectators,  are  only  partly  preserved.  In  the  front  row 
were  marble  seats  for  the  priests  and  state  officials ;  that  in  the  centre, 
set  apart  for  the  priest  of  Dionysos,  is  adorned  with  reliefs.  The 
pedestal  to  the  right,  behind  it,  bore  the  throne  of  Hadrian. 

Adjoining  the  theatre  was  the  Sacred  Precinct  of  Dionysos 
Eleulhereus,  the  wine-dispensing  god,  with  whose  festivals  the 
dramatic  performances  were  connected.  The  walls  of  his  temple 
(5th  or  early  4th  cent.)  are  still  partly  preserved  between  the  stage 
of  the  theatre  and  the  modern  street.  Behind  the  stage  ran  a  colon- 
nade offering  shelter  in  rainy  weather;  at  its  S.W.  end  once  stood 
an  older  temple,  the  N.W.  corner  of  which  has  been  discovered. 

The  ancient  buildings  to  the  W.  of  the  theatre  of  Dionysos  skirt 
the  hill-side  in  two  terraces.  The  E.  half  of  the  upper  terrace,  on  the 
steep  slope  of  the  castle-hill,  above  the  conspicuous  arched  wall,  is 
the  site  of  the  famous  Asklepieion,  or  sacred  precinct  of  Asklepios 
(jEsculapius),  Hygieia,  and  kindred  deities,  with  which  institutions 
for  the  treatment  of  the  sick  were  connected.  Of  the  temple,  founded 
in  420,  the  foundations  only  are  left.  The  perpendicular  side  of 
the  Acropolis  is  here  faced  with  masonry,  in  which  is  the  entrance 
to  a  round  well-house  converted  into  a  chapel.  In  front  of  it  ran 
a  colonnade  towards  the  "W.,  leading  to  a  round  pit,  once  roofed 
over,  which  is  supposed  to  have  been  used  for  sacrificial  purposes 
or  as  the  abode  of  the  sacred  serpents. 

On  the  lower  terrace,  from  the  theatre  to  the  Odeion,  ran  the 
Sfoa  of  King  Eumenes  II.  of  Pergamon  (B.C.  197-159),  180  yds. 
long,  with  its  back  to  the  masonry  supporting  the  upper  terrace 

The  *Odeion  of  Herodes  Atticus  (PI.  C,  7 ;  keys  kept  by 
a  pensioner,  in  the  red  hut  at  the  W.  entrance;  25-50  1.),  founded 
by  a  rich  citizen  (p.  507;  about  160  A.D.),  dominates  all  the  other 
ruins  at  the  foot  of  the  castle-hill.  Unlike  the  usual  odeon  or  theatre 
for  musical  entertainments,  this  building  was  constructed  with  a 
view  to  dramatic  performances.  The  yellowish-brown  fagade  is 
constructed  in  the  Roman  round-arched  style  and  consisted  of  three 
stories.  The  usual  entrance  is  by  the  westmost  of  the  three  doors. 
A  niche  here  contains  the  statue  of  a  Roman  official. 

The  Interior  affords  a  good  example  of  a  Roman  theatre  (comp. 
p.  510).  The  stage  (logeion),  raised  Z'l2  ft.  above  the  orchestra,  is  38>/2  yds. 
in  breadth,  but  only  6  yds.  deep.  At  the  back  of  the  stage  is  a  massive 
wall,  broken  by  the  usual  three  stage-doors  and  relieved  by  niches  and 
a  row  of  columns.  The  orchestra,  20  yds.  wide,  was  paved  with  parti- 
coloured squares  of  marble.  The  auditorium,  83  yds.  in  diameter,  could 
hold  5000  spectators.  The  tiers  of  seats  rise  in  a  semicircle,  one  above  the 
other,  on  the  rocky  slope  of  the  Acropolis.  The  lower  19  tiers  were  divided 
by  steps  into  five,  the  upper  (probably  13),  above  the  transverse  passage 
(see  p.  510  and  above),  into  ten  sections.  The  seats,  like  the  whole  of  the 
masonry,  were  coated  with  Pentelic  marble;  the  lowest  tier  had  backs. 
The  whole  edifice  was  covered  with  a  superb  roof  of  cedar-wood. 

From  the  Dionysios  Areopagites  Street  (p.  510),  where  it  passes 


512      Route  79.  ATHENS.  Areopagus 

the  Odeion,  there  diverges  to  the  W.  the  avenue  leading  to  the 
Acropolis,  immediately  to  the  right  of  which  a  steep  path  ascends 
on  the  W.  side  of  the  Odeion  to  the  Acropolis  gate. 

Halfway  up  we  diverge  to  the  left  to  visit  the  summit  of  a 
rocky  plateau  (377  ft.)  separated  from  the  Acropolis  by  a  depres- 
sion, and  descending  abruptly  to  the  N.E.,  still  called  as  in  ancient 
times  the  Areopagus  (PI.  B,  C,  6).  A  narrow  flight  of  steps  in 
the  rock,  partly  destroyed,  ascends  to  the  site  of  some  ancient  altars, 
for  which  platforms  were  hewn  in  the  rock.  Here  met  the  time- 
honoured  court  of  justice,  composed  of  noble  and  aged  citizens 
who  wielded  supreme  criminal  jurisdiction.  The  cleft  in  the  rock 
below  the  N.E.  corner  was  probably  connected  with  the  cult  of  the 
avenging  Erinyes  (Furies),  or  Enmenides  (the  benevolent),  as  they 
were  euphemistically  called.  This  was  the  scene  of  jEschylus's 
famous  tragedy  of  that  name. 

To  the  S.W.  of  the  Areopagus  rock,  and  below  (to  the  B.  of)  the  modern 
road  from  the  Theseion  (p.  521)  to  the  Acropolis,  the  Oldest  Quarter 
of  the  Lower  Town  has  been  partly  excavated  (comp.  PL  B,  7,  and 
p.  524).  Descending  at  the  W.  point  of  the  Areopagus  rock  from  the 
modern  to  the  ancient  road,  we  reach,  on  the  left,  the  Dionysion  en 
Limnais  (PI.  B,  7),  a  triangular  space  enclosed  by  an  antique  polygonal 
wall  of  limestone.  This  was  the  sacred  precinct  of  Dionysos  Lena^os, 
the  inventor  of  the  wine-press,  and  once  contained  a  temple  of  the  7th 
or  6th  cent.  B.  0.,  a  wine-press  (in  the  N.W.  angle),  and  a  large  hall  of 
the  Roman  period  (in  the  N.E.  half). 

To  the  S.  of  the  temple-precinct  lay  the  City  Well  of  Kallirrho'e. 
Peisistratos  connected  it  with  his  aqueduct  from  the  upper  Ilissos  valley, 
and  provided  it  with  nine  spouts,  whence  it  was  eallecf  Ennedkrunos 


b.  The  Acropolis. 

The  abrupt  limestone  plateau  (512  ft.)  on  which  stands  the  Acropolis, 
or  castle  of  Athens,  has  formed  from  hoar  antiquity  the  nucleus  of  all 
the  settlements  in  the  Attic  plain.  The  legendary  Pelasgi  are  said  to 
have  first  levelled  the  top  of  the  hill,  enclosed  it  with  a  wall,  and  erected 
the  so-called  Ennedpylon,  an  outwork  with  nine  gates,  to  defend  the  sole 
approach  on  the  W.  side.  The  Acropolis  contained  the  residence  of  the 
kings  and  the  chief  sanctuaries  of  the  state.  The  kings  afterwards  trans- 
ferred their  seat  to  the  lower  city,  Peisistratos  alone  preferring  to  reside 
in  the  Acropolis.  The  ancient  buildings  were  destroyed  by  the  Persians 
in  480-479.  Themistoklcs  and  Kimon  rebuilt  the  walls,  and  Perikles  then 
became  the  chief  founder  of  those  magnificent  buildings  which,  even  in 
their  ruins,  still  present  the  finest  picture  of  the  unrivalled  art  of  antiquity. 

Tramway,  see  p.  503. 

The  avenue  mentioned  above  which  ascends  to  the  W.  at  the 
Odeion  of  Herodes  Atticus  brings  us  to  the  so-called  Bcule  Gate, 
on  the  plateau  below  the  last  steep  W.  slope  of  the  **Acropolis. 
Carriages  stop  here.   Visitors  admitted  till  sunset. 

The  Beule  Gate,  named  after  the  French  savant  who  discovered 
it,  was  entirely  built  over  by  bastions  down  to  1852,  but  since 
1889  has  formed  the  chief  entrance  to  the  Acropolis  (side-entrance 
under  the  Nike  bastion).    The  towers  flanking  the  gateway  were 


Acropolis.  ATHENS.  «*•  Rout,'.      5^ 

built  about  50  A. D. ;  the  gateway  itself  dates  from  1G0A.D.  and 
is  embellished  with  fragments  from  a  choragic  monument  erected 
by  Nikias  in  319. 

From  the  Beule  Gate  we  ascend  a  flight  of  marble  steps,  with 
many  gaps,  to  the  Propylsea.  This  staircase,  which  also  was  made 
in  the  first  half  of  the  1st  cent.  A.D.,  replaces  the  steep  ancient  track. 

The  towor-like  pedestal  on  the  left,  below  the  Propylaea,  once  bore  a 
Statue  of  M.  Vipsanius  Agrippa,  the  general  and  son-in-law  of  Emp. 
Augustus,  erected  between  27  and  12  A.D. 

To  the  right  of  the  Propylsea  projects  a  bastion,  26  ft.  high, 
from  which  a  small  flight  of  marble  steps  descends,  stopping  short 
of  our  staircase.  On  this  bastion  rises  the  *Ternple  of  Nike 
(Athena  Nike,  erroneously  called  Nike  Apteros),  which  was  recon- 
structed with  the  ancient  stones  in  1835-6.  Its  date  is  uncertain 
(probably  between  440  and  410  B.C.). 

Like  the  Propylaea  this  little  temple,  27  ft.  long  and  18  ft.  wide,  is 
built  entirely  of  Pentelie  marble.  It  stands  on  a  basement  of  three  steps, 
and  is  preceded  at  the  E.  and  W.  ends  by  a  portico  of  four  Ionic  columns 
13  ft.  high.  Above  the  tripartite  architrave  runs  a  sculptured  frieze  85  ft. 
long  and  18  inches  high.  At  the  E.  end  it  represents  a  council  of  the  gods, 
among  whom  are  Athena  with  her  shield  (in  the  centre)  and  Zeus  (sitting) 
next  to  her.  On  the  sides  are  battles  of  the  Greeks  with  the  Persians 
(some  of  them  mounted)  At  the  W.  end  is  a  conflict  between  Greeks 
and  Greeks.  Only  a  few  fragments  of  the  roof  have  been  found;  it  ended 
on  the  E.  and  W.  in  pediments  which  were  unadorned.  The  entrance  to 
the  cella  is  formed  by  two  pillars. 

On  the  marble  cornice  of  the  temple  bastion  there  once  rose  a 
Balustrade  adorned  with  reliefs  outside,  and  bearing  a  bronze 
railing.  These  admirable  reliefs,  remains  of  which  are  preserved 
in  the  Acropolis  Museum  (p.  520),  represented  goddesses  of  victory 
erecting  trophies  and  presenting  offerings  in  presence  of  Athena. 

The  *View  from  beside  the  Temple  of  Nike  is  justly  celebrated.  In 
the  picturesque  intermingling  of  land  and  sea  we  descry  the  bay  of  Phaleron 
(p.  528),  the  peninsula  of  Munychia,  the  Piraeus  (p.  494),  Salamis,  and  its 
adjoining  islet  of  Psyttaleia  (p.  494).  A  little  farther  to  the  right,  beyond 
the  bay  of  Eleusis,  appears  the  dome-like  rock  of  Acio-Corinth,  backed  by 
distant  mountains.  To  the  right  of  this,  but  in  the  immediate  foreground, 
Tises  the  Pnyx  Hill  with  its  rock-steps.  The  plain  is  overgrown  with  fine  old 
olive-groves.  Above  it  rise  Mt.  iEgaleos  and  the  hills  of  Megara.  To  the 
S.W.,  to  the  left  of  the  tower-like  monument  of  Philopappos,  stretches  the 
Saronic  Gulf,  bounded  by  .ffigina,  with  Mt.  St.  Elias,  and  by  the  Argolic 
Mts.  and  the  island  of  Hydra.  To  the  left  runs  the  Attic  coast  as  far  as 
the  islet  of  Gaidaronisi,  off  Cape  Colonna. 

The  **Propylaea,  the  greatest  secular  edifice  in  ancient  Athens, 
composed  entirely  of  Pentelie  marble,  were  erected  in  437-432  B.C. 
by  the  architect  Mnesikles.  This  highly  artistic  building  consists 
of  three  parts — a  central  gateway  with  wings  on  the  N.  and  S. 

The  Central  Building,  ruined  by  an  explosion  in  1645,  con- 
sists of  a  wall  pierced  with  five  openings  and  preceded  by  Doric 
colonnades  on  the  E.  and  W.  sides.  Each  colonnade  has  six  columns 
in  front,  above  which  ran  a  frieze  of  triglyphs  and  metopes,  crowned 
by  a  plain  pediment.  The  W.  Colonnade,  to  which  three  huge  steps 


514     Route  79.  ATHENS.  Acropolis. 

ascend,  is  19  yds.  wide  and  17  yds.  deep.  Its  front  columns  belong 
to  the  Doric  order  and  consequently  rise  directly  from  the  ground 
(stylobate),  without  bases;  they  are  29  ft.  high,  and  each  is  fluted 
with  twenty  grooves  separated  by  sharp  edges.  Behind  the  two 
central  columns,  which  are  12'/2  ft.  apart,  and  flanking  the  main 
passage  there  are  on  each  side  three  slender  Ionic  columns,  33  ft. 
high,  resting  on  their  cushion-like  bases,  and  grooved  with  twenty- 
four  flutes  separated  by  broad  fillets.  The  ceiling  was  divided  into 
sunk  panels  adorned  with  painting. 

On  the  N.  and  S.  sides  the  central  building  was  bounded  by 
massive  walls,  17^2  yds.  long,  ending  in  huge  buttresses  (antse). 
Between  these  extended  the  Gateway  proper  consisting,  as  above 
remarked,  of  a  wall  with  five  openings.  Five  marble  steps  ascend 
to  the  threshold,  composed  of  black  Eleusinian  stone,  on  which  the 
side-gates  rest.  The  broad  central  gateway  is  without  steps.  All  the 
gateways  were  once  provided  with  massive  folding  doors. 

The  E.  Colonnade  is  as  broad  as  the  other,  but  only  23  ft. 
deep.  Of  its  six  Doric  columns  five  still  have  their  capitals,  and 
two  are  connected  with  their  architrave. 

The  well-preserved  North  Wing  consists  of  a  porch  or  vesti- 
bule, open  towards  the  S.,  with  three  Doric  columns  between  antse, 
and  an  inner  hall  connected  with  it  by  a  door  and  two  windows. 
This  was  called  the  Pinakotheka,  from  its  use  as  a  receptacle  for 
votive  pictures  ('pinakes')  on  marble  or  terracotta.  The  South 
Wing,  of  which  two  columns  and  the  back-wall  only  have  been 
preserved,  was  never  quite  completed. 

Passing  through  the  E.  Colonnade  of  the  Propylsea  we  enter  the 
Inner  Ward  of  the  Acropolis  and  ascend  a  gradual  slope,  now  cov- 
ered with  profoundly  impressive  ruins.  When  we  picture  to  our- 
selves the  mighty  Parthenon,  on  the  right,  and  the  exquisite  Erech- 
theion  on  the  left,  in  the  full  glory  of  their  sculptures  and  colouring, 
surrounded  by  smaller  sanctuaries  and  a  forest  of  statues,  we  may 
well  understand  the  enthusiastic  pride  of  the  Athenians  in  their 
unrivalled  Acropolis. 

From  the  central  gateway  of  the  Propylsea  a  broad  pathway 
ascends  along  the  main  axis  of  the  citadel.  The  rock  has  evidently 
been  much  cut  away  to  facilitate  the  ascent,  as  we  see  from  a  glance 
at  the  rocky  terrace  on  the  right,  which  has  a  precipitous  face  6'/2  ft. 
in  height.  Fragments  of  pedestals  and  square  hollows  in  the  rock 
indicate  the  ancient  sites  of  numerous  votive  offerings. 

The  terrace  of  rock  just  mentioned,  to  which  nine  low  steps  ascend 
farther  on,  once  bore  the  temple  of  Artemis  Branronia,  but  is  now 
strewn  with  beams  and  fragments  of  ceiling  from  the  Propylfea  (panels 
with  traces  of  blue  colouring).  The  terrace  is  bounded  on  the  W.  by  a 
fragment  of  a  broad  wall  belonging  to  the  original  Pelasgic  fortifications 
(p.  512).  —  Another  rock-terrace,  about  2'/2  f t.  higher,  and  also  cut  per- 
pendicularly, to  the  E.  of  the  Brauronion,  is  supposed  to  have  been  the  place 
where,   without  any  actual  temple,  Athena  was  worshipped  as  ErgdiiS, 


Acropolis.  ATHENS.  79.  Routt.      515 

the  mistress  and  inventor  of  every  art.  To  the  S.  of  this  terrace  we 
ohserve  traces  of  walls  which,  together  with  the  S.  wall  itself,  seem  1o 
have  formed  a  gigantic  building.  It  was  perhaps  the  (Jhalkotheka,  an 
arsenal  where  not  only  implements  of  war  but  also  bronze  votive  offerings, 
and  other  objects  were  kept.  Towards  the  Parthenon  the  terrace  had  nine 
narrow  steps  on  which  votive  offerings  were  deposited. 

About  forty  paces  from  the  Propylaea,  straight  on,  we  come  to 
a  large  cutting  in  the  rock,  the  supposed  site  of  the  bronze  statue  of 
Athena  Promachus,  about  26  ft.  high,  by  Phidias,  erected  with  the 
booty  of  Marathon.  The  goddess  was  represented  in  full  armour, 
with  shield  and  lance.  The  gilded  point  of  the  lance,  gleaming 
in  the  sun,  was  a  landmark  for  sailors  rounding  Cape  Colonna. 
The  principal  roadway,  once  used  by  the  festal  processions,  passes 
between  the  Erechtheion  and  the  Parthenon  to  the  E.  front  of  the 
latter. 

The  **Parthenon,  the  most  perfect  monument  of  ancient  art, 
once  far  surpassing  all  other  Athenian  buildings  in  the  brilliancy 
of  its  plastic  and  polychrome  decoration,  and  even  in  its  ruins  a 
marvel  of  majestic  beauty,  stands  on  the  highest  S.  margin  of  the 
Acropolis  precincts.  On  this  site,  as  early  as  the  middle  of  the 
6th  cent.,  a  large  temple  was  begun,  adjoining  the  ancient  Heka- 
tompedon  (p.  518),  in  poros  or  Piraean  stone,  and  after  the  battle  of 
Marathon  down  to  the  Persian  occupation  was  continued  in  marble. 
In  the  time  of  Perikles,  after  447,  the  whole  edilice  as  it  now  stands 
was  rebuilt  in  Pentelic  marble.  The  architects  were  Uctinos  and 
Kallikrates,  but  Perikles  himself  presided  over  the  works  and  pro- 
vided the  funds.  The  external  sculptures  are  attributed  to  Phidias 
and  his  pupils.  The  temple  was  probably  opened  for  worship  in  438, 
on  the  occasion  of  the  erection  of  the  statue  of  Athena  at  the  Pana- 
theiuean  Festival.  This  marvellous  work  must  therefore  have  been 
completed  within  ten  years.  Its  decoration  alone  included  98  col- 
umns, 50  lifesize  statues  for  the  pediments,  a  frieze  524  ft.  long, 
92  metopes,  and  a  gold  and  ivory  figure  of  Athena  43  ft.  high. 

-On  the  massive  basement  in  three  steps,  whose  Stylubate,  or 
platform  for  the  colonnade,  measures  75%  by  33  yds.,  rise  46 
Doric  columns  averaging  34  ft.  high,  eight  at  each  end  and  seven- 
teen on  each  side  (the  corner-columns  being  counted  twice).  On  the 
abaci  of  the  columns  rests  the  undivided  Architrave  or  Epistyle, 
above  which  runs  a  Triylyph  Frieze,  the  most  characteristic  feat- 
ure of  the  Doric  order.  This  consists  of  triylyphs  or  triple  grooves, 
alternating  with  metopes  or  flat  spaces,  which  in  this  case  are  adorn- 
ed with  reliefs.  Above  the  frieze  is  the  yeison,  or  lowest  flat  mould- 
ing of  the  cornice,  while  below  each  triglyph  hang  reyulae  (cjutiae, 
or  drops),  corresponding  with  drops  above  it.  The  triglyphs  and 
drops  were  painted  blue,  the  ground  of  the  metopes  blue  or  red, 
and  the  lower  surface  of  the  geison  and  the  continuous  moulding 
above  the  frieze  and  architrave  red.    The  smooth  spaces  in  front 


516     Boute  79  ATHENS.  Acropolis. 

were  left  white,  as  were  also  the  columns,  with  the  exception  of 
the  four  rings  or  annuli  below  the  capitals. 

The  gable-roof  rose  at  an  angle  of  1372°-  At  each  end  is  a  ped- 
iment, framing  the  tympanum,  or  receding  space  for  statuary 
91^2  ft-  long,  3  ft.  deep,  and  in  the  centre  1072  ft.  high.  It  was 
painted  red  at  the  back,  so  as  to  throw  the  statues  into  strong  re- 
lief. The  raised  edges  (simae)  of  the  external  members  of  the  ped- 
iment, 187a  inches  high,  are  intended  to  prevent  the  rain-water 
from  escaping  over  the  front;  they  were  adorned  with  wreaths  of 
foliage.  The  pediment  was  crowned  with  a  boldly  executed  palmette, 
and  at  each  corner  was  placed  a  golden  oil-jar.  —  The  roof,  resting 
partly  on  timber  and  partly  on  stone  framework,  consisted  of  slabs 
of  Parian  marble  174  i«-  thick;  it  was  edged  with  artistic  ante- 
fixae,  or  hollowed  tiles,  between  which  the  rain-water  escaped. 
The  lions'  heads  at  the  ends  of  each  side  were  purely  ornamental. 

The  Cella,  or  sanctuary  proper,  enclosed  by  the  outer  colon- 
nades, is  raised  two  steps  above  the  stylobate.  At  each  end  a  portico 
is  formed  by  six  Doric  columns,  33  ft.  high,  and  by  the  projecting 
sides.  Above  the  architrave,  round  the  whole  building  ran  a  frieze, 
of  which  hardly  any  traces  remain  except  on  the  W.  side  (comp. 
p.  517).  —  The  porticos  were  closed  by  high  bronze  railings  be- 
tween the  columns.  From  the  E.  portico  massive  folding  doors  led 
into  the  interior,  which  was  divided  by  a  partition  into  an  eastern 
and  a  smaller  western  section.  The  former,  the  inner  sanctuary, 
was  known  as  the  Hekatompedon,  being  '100  ft.  long'  (comp. 
p.  518).  It  was  divided  into  three  aisles  by  two  rows  of  Doric  col- 
nmns  (9  in  each).  On  a  square  of  darker  stone  in  the  pavement 
stood  the  famous  gold  and  ivory  statue  of  Athena  Partheuos  by 
Phidias.  The  ceiling  was  of  wood  in  lacunars,  which  were  doubt- 
less richly  coloured.  Light  was  admitted  by  the  door  alone.  The 
walls  were  painted  dark-red,  but  no  adequate  idea  can  now  be 
formed  of  the  original  wealth  of  colouring.  —  Between  the  partition 
and  the  W.  portico,  which  is  supposed  to  have  formed  a  kind  of 
treasury  (opisthodomos),  lay  the  W.  section  of  the  cella,  14  yds.  in 
depth,  sometimes  called  the  Parthenon  in  the  narrower  sense. 

The  crowning  glory  of  the  Parthenon  consisted  in  its  plastic 
decoration,  executed  under  the  direction  of  Phidias.  Most  of  the 
sculptures  still  preserved  were  taken  to  London  by  Lord  Elgin  in 
1802-3  and  are  now  in  the  British  Museum,  but  there  are  several 
others  in  the  Acropolis  Museum  (see  p.  519). 

The  E.  Tympanum  was  devoted  to  the  nativity  of  Athena. 
All  that  remains  of  its  sculptures  in  their  original  position  consists 
of  two  horses'  heads  belonging  to  the  chariot  of  the  rising  Helios, 
on  the  left,  and  remains  of  a  horse's  head  of  the  chariot  of  the 
setting  Selene,  on  the  right.  In  the  W.  Tympanum,  which  illus- 
trated the  victory  of  Athena  over  Poseidon  in  their  contest  for  the 


Acrqpolia.  ATHENS.  79- Bowte.     517 

possession  of  Attica,  are  still  seen,  near  the  left  angle,  a  half- 
recumbent  male  figure,  round  whose  neck  is  the  arm  of  a  kneeling 
woman  (jEsculapius  and  Hygieia?),  and  in  the  right  angle  a  female 
figure  supposed  to  be  Kallirrhoe  (p.  512). 

The  Metope  Reliefs  are  of  inferior  artistic  value.  Of  the  92 
there  still  exist  the  28  at  each  end  and  12  on  the  N.  side.  They  re- 
present the  conflicts  of  the  gods  with  the  Giants  (E.),  of  the  Lapithse 
and  Athenians  with  the  Centaurs  (S.),  of  the  Athenians  with  the 
Amazons  (\V.),  and  lastly  the  siege  of  Troy.  The  high  relief  in 
some  cases  assumes  an  almost  entirely  rounded  form. 

The  masterpiece  of  Attic  bas-relief  is  the  *Frieze  of  the  cella 
wall,  175  yds.  long  and  39  in.  high.  On  the  "W.  front  the  greater 
part  of  it  has  been  preserved,  but  on  the  S.  side  there  are  only 
scanty  fragments.  Twenty-two  slabs  are  now  in  the  Acropolis  Mu- 
seum (see  p.  519).  The  reliefs  represented  the  festal  procession  in 
which  every  four  years,  at  the  close  of  the  Panathenaea,  the  maidens 
of  Athens  presented  the  goddess  with  a  magnificent  woven  robe. 
Over  the  chief  entrance  is  the  presentation  of  the  robe  to  Athena; 
to  the  right  and  left  of  it  are  the  assembled  gods;  on  the  sides  and 
at  the  back  are  Athenians.  The  figures  were  executed  in  low  relief 
of  2-2J/2  in-  0,'ly)  *n  order  to  prevent  strong  shadows  being  thrown 
by  the  light  entering  the  covered  hall  from  below.  The  effect  was 
enhanced  by  painting  and  mountings  in  metal. 

In  the  hollows  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Parthenon,  far  below,  may 
be  traced  the  line  of  the  Pelasgic  Wall  (p.  512),  which  was  covered 
up  when  the  terrace  of  the  temple  was  formed.  Excavations  here, 
and  notably  also  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Erechtheion,  brought  to  light 
a  number  of  archaic  statues  and  architectural  fragments  dating 
from  the  Persian  destruction. 

Near  the  N.  margin  of  the  Acropolis  precincts,  but  in  a  slight 
depression,  rises  the  **  Erechtheion,  the  temple  of  the  tutelary 
goddess  Athena  Polids  and  the  other  deities  of  the  city.  The 
building  was  probably  begun  soon  after  the  Peace  of  Nikias  (421), 
but  only  completed  in  407  or  after  400.  It  contained  chambers  for 
the  cult  of  Athena  and  Poseidon  Erechtheus,  while  the  vestibule 
had  an  entrance  to  the  salt-spring  produced  by  Poseidon.  But  the 
temple  is  now  sadly  ruined,  having  served  in  the  middle  ages  as 
a  church  and  afterwards  as  a  Turkish  harem.  Since  1902,  how- 
ever, the  ancient  fragments  have  been  pieced  together,  and  they 
now  afford  a  fairly  complete  idea  of  the  exterior  of  the  building, 
which  differed  from  that  of  the  ordinary  temples. 

The  nucleus  of  the  edifice  (24  by  12  yds.)  rises  on  a  tnreefold 
basement  in  steps,  and  the  sanctuary  was  entered  by  three  porticos 
(E.,  S.,  and  N.)  of  charmingly  varied  type. 

The  E.  Portico  was  formed  by  six  Ionic  columns  in  front,  the 
northmost  of  which  has  been  broken  down.    Their  rich  capitals 


518     Jioidc  79.  ATHENS.  Acropolis. 

bear  the  tripartite  epistyle  (p.  515);  above  it  are  dark  blocks  of 
stone  to  which  the  relief  figures  of  the  frieze  were  attached. 

Between  the  E.  portico  and  the  Acropolis  Wall  twelve  broad 
steps,  partly  modern,  descend  to  the  terrace  of  rock,  about  10  ft. 
lower,  on  which  stands  the  N.  Portico.  Its  six  columns  display  a 
still  greater  wealth  of  sculpturing  than  those  of  the  E.  portico.  The 
ceiling  is  relieved  by  lacunars.  The  great  main  doorway  is  spec- 
ially rich  and  well  preserved.  The  three  holes  in  the  rock  below 
the  N.  side  of  the  N.  colonnade  were  pointed  out  in  ancient  times 
as  the  indentations  made  by  Poseidon's  trident  during  his  contest 
with  Athena  for  possession  of  Athens.  Above  them  the  pavement 
and  roof  were  left  open. — The  W.  facade  of  the  temple,  in  front 
of  which  lay  the  Pandroseion,  or  shrine  of  Pandrosos,  daughter  of 
Cecrops,  was  originally  articulated  by  four  columns,  resting  upon 
a  high  parapet.  The  existing  arrangement,  of  pilasters  engaged  in 
a  wall  with  windows,  dates  from  the  Roman  period. 

The  ^Colonnade  of  the  Caryatides  at  the  S.W.  angle  is  par- 
ticularly charming.  Instead  of  columns,  six  statues  of  virgins,  over 
life-size  (7'/2ft.),  placed  on  a  parapet,  support  the  roof,  the  weight 
of  which  they  bear  with  ease  and  grace.  The  ancient  Athenians 
called  them  simply  the  Korai  (maidens).  The  second  figure  from 
the  W.  is  a  copy  in  terracotta;  the  one  standing  back  in  the  E. 
row  has  been  restored. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Erechtheion  are  the  foundations  (37y2  by 
14^2  yds-)  °f  the  so-called  Hekatompedon  (early  6th  cent.),  on 
the  site  of  the  palace  of  Eiechtheus.  The  name  ('100  ft.  long')  is 
evidenced  by  an  inscription.  Peisistratos  and  his  sons  embellished 
it  with  a  colonnade.  After  its  destruction  by  the  Persians  it  was 
probably  restored  without  the  colonnade.  Opinions  differ  as  to  its 
object  and  as  to  its  history  after  the  completion  of  the  Erechtheion. 
It  had  a  front  (E.)  chamber  of  three  aisles  and  a  narrow  chamber 
at  the  back  (W.),  with  two  small  rooms  between  them. 

To  the  Palace  of  Erechtheus,  the  ancient  residence  of  the 
Attic  kings,  belonged  the  foundations  to  the  E.  of  the  Erechtheion. 
So  also  did  the  poros  (Piraean  stone)  bases  of  columns,  lying  oppos- 
ite the  S.E.  angle  of  the  colonnade  of  the  Caryatides,  5  ft.  lower; 
their  extremely  archaic  form,  with  the  shaft  of  the  column  embed- 
ded in  the  base,  points  to  the  Mycencean  period. 

We  now  return  to  the  Parthenon.  To  the  E.  of  it  once  stood  a 
small  round  Temple  of  the  Goddess  Roma  and  the  Emp.  Augustus, 
round  the  foundations  of  which  lie  fragments  of  its  architrave. 
Opposite  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  Parthenon  are  the  remains  of  a 
sacrificial  altar  of  Athena. — At  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  precincts 
the  huge  masonry  of  the  Kimonian  Wall  (p.  512)  may  be  seen. 

The  Belvedere  at  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  Acropolis  affords  the  best 
survey  of  the  city.    To  the  S.E.  are  the  columns  of  the  Olympieion,  with 


Acropolis.  ATHENS.  79  Route.     519 

the  distant  Hymettos;  nearer  rises  Hadrian's  Arch;  in  the  foreground  is 
the  monument  of  Lysikrates;  then  the  royal  Palace  and  its  gardens; 
beyond  them  are  Lykabettos  and  the  gable-shaped  Pentelikon;  in  the  town, 
a  little  to  the  left,  shine  the  dazzling  marble  buildings  of  the  Academy, 
the  University,  and  the  Library;  to  the  N.  of  these  runs  the  Patisia  road; 
more  to  the  left  rises  the  lofty  Metropolis  Church,  with  the  small  Metrop- 
olis nestling  beside  it;  in  the  centre  of  the  N.  slope  of  the  Acropolis  rises 
the  Tower  of  the  Winds;  adjacent  is  the  Bazaar  with  Hadrian's  Stoa; 
to  the  W.  is  the  Theseion,  and  beyond  it  the  Kephisos  Valley  with  its 
olive-groves,  and  Mt.  Parnes  with  its  S.  spur  Mt.  .^Egaleos. 

The  *  Acropolis  Museum,  erected  in  1878,  contains  all  the 
sculptures  of  the  Acropolis,  except  those  previously  removed,  and 
the  yield. of  later  excavations.  Besides  works  of  the  golden  age,  it 
comprises  valuable  examples  of  the  earlier  periods  of  art.  Adm., 
see  p.  504. 

From  the  Vestibule,  containing  antiques  of  various  ages,  we  enter 
(left)  Room  I,  where  the  chronological  order  begins. 

Room  I.  Archaic  sculptures  in  poros  (6th  cent.).  Straight  before  us, 
No.  3.  Bull  attacked  by  two  lions;  above  this,  and  by  the  right  wall:  1,  2. 
Tympana  with  statues  of  Hercules  (with  traces  of  painting).  By  the 
window-wall:  9,  10.  Deities  enthroned,  from  a  tympanum  of  the  pre- 
Peisistrateian  Hekatompedon  (p.  518). 

Room  II.  Remains  of  the  tympanum  groups  in  poros  from  the  Heka- 
tompedon just  mentioned:  36.  Hercules  with  the  Triton;  35.  Figure  with 
three  bodies  ('Typhon');  40.  Remains  of  two  large  serpents  in  poros  stone, 
showing  abundant  traces  of  painting  (comp.  water-colour  on  the  wall). 

Room  III.  Figures  (idols),  tablets,  and  architectural  fragments  in 
terracotta,  some  with  admirably  preserved  painting.  Specially  noteworthy, 
at  the  entrance,  No.  67.  A  warrior  (6-5th  cent.). 

Room  IV.  Fragments  of  marble  sculptures;  architectural  ornaments 
in  terracotta,  poros,  and  marble,  some  ot  them  painted.  On  the  right, 
the  tympanum  figures  from  Peisistratos's  colonnade  round  the  old  Heka- 
tompedon (p.  518):  Athena  fighting  with  the  Giants. 

Room  V.  Archaic  marbles  (6th  cent.),  incl.  (on  the  right  of  the  en- 
trance) 621.  Calf-Bearer  (youth  bringing  a  calf  to  the  altar). 

Room  VI.  Archaic  *Draped  Female  Figures,  erected  in  the  Acro- 
polis in  the  2nd  half  of  the  6th  cent,  as  votive  offerings,  hut  buried  in 
the  rubbish  after  its  destruction  (480),  also  with  interesting  traces  of 
painting.  No.  681  is  by  Antenor,  author  of  the  tyrannicide  group  (comp. 
p.  506);  No.  686  is  the  most  recent. 

Room  VII.  Later  archaic  marbles,  notably  (in  the  centre,  under  glass) 
No.  689.  Beautiful  bead  of  a  youth;  also  two  graceful  reliefs,  695.  Athena, 
and  702.  Hermes  and  three  women.  —  Above,  along  the  walls,  Metopes 
from  the.  Parthenon  (p.  517),  few  of  them  original;  the  finest,  a  Centaur 
carrying  off  one  of  the  Lapithae. 

Room  VIII.  Sculptures  from  the  Parthenon:  Statues  from  the  tym- 
pana and  reliefs  from  the  frieze,  those  in  the  British  Museum  being  re- 
presented by  casts.  In  the  centre  of  the  room  a  reconstruction  of  the  tym- 
panum groups,  according  to  Furtwiingler.  By  the  wall  on  the  right  are 
remains  of  the  E.  tympanum  (p.  517),  two  torsos  only  being  originals. 
No.  880  (in  the  centre),  blepliffistlis;  on  the  right,  881.  Selene.  Above 
are  remains  of  the  \V.  tympanum!  in  the  centre,  885.  Poseidon. 

Most  interesting  of  all  is  the  better-preserved  **Parthenon  Frieze,  of 
which  nearly  28  yds.  are  almost  entirely  original  (partly  replaced  by  casts). 
To  the  right  of  the  entrance,  856.  Three  deities,  Aphrodite  (?),  Apollo, 
and  Poseidon;  below  these,  857.  Three  youths  with  cows  for  sacrifice. 
Then,  on  the  right,  877.  Four  women  with  silver  or  gold  basins;  875. 
Three  men  with  musical  instruments.     We  note  also  several  slabs  from 


520     Route  79.  ATHENS.  Rue  d'Eole. 

the  procession  of  horsemen  and  chariots.     To  the  right  of  the  entrance, 
860.  Youth  with  sacrificial  sheep. 

Eoom  IX.  On  the  right,  beautiful  reliefs  from  the  Nike  balustrade 
(p.  513);  in  the  centre  of  Ihe  front  row,  *973.  Nike  loosening  her  sandal. 
On  tho  left,  Nos.  1071-78.  Fragments  of  the  relief-frieze  of  the  Erechtheion. 


c.  Walk  from,  the  Palace  to  the  Theseion.   Dipylon. 
Hill  of  the  Nymphs.  Pny x.  Monument  of  Philopappos. 

The  upper  or  E.  end  of  the  Rue  d'Hermes  (PI.  E-B,  5),  which 
leads  to  the  W.  from  the  Place  de  la  Constitution,  is  one  of  the 
chief  business  quarters  of  Athens.  Among  the  wares  sokl  in  the 
shops  here  are  Oriental  silks  and  woollen  stuffs  and  antiquities, 
the  latter  dear  and  sometimes  spurious. 

A  few  paces  to  the  S.  of  the  Rue  d'Hermes  rises  the  Metropol- 
itan Church  (PL  E,  5),  erected  in  1840-55  with  the  materials  of 
seventy  smaller  churches  and  chapels,  and  sumptuously  fitted  up 
in  the  interior.  Adjoining  it  on  the  S.  is  the  so-called  *Little 
Metropolis,  or  church  of  Panagia  Gorgdpilco,  of  the  early 
9th  cent.,  the  oldest  extant  Byzantine  edifice  on  Greek  soil.  The 
walls,  composed  of  antique  blocks  of  stone,  contain  many  ancient 
and  Byzantine  sculptures. 

Halfway  along  the  Rue  d'Hermes  is  the  Kapnikar^a  Church 
(PI.  D,  5),  a  complex  Byzantine  building  (9th  cent.?).  Just  beyond 
it  we  cross  the  busy — ■ 

Rue  d'Eolk  (PI.  D,  6-3),  the  second  main  street  of  the  old  town, 
where  men  in  Greek  costume  are  often  seen.  Following  it  to  the 
S.,  towards  the  Acropolis,  and  passing  the  Place  Panteleemon,  we 
come  to  the  old  Bazaar  (PI.  D,  5),  where  tailors,  shoemakers,  and 
smiths  ply  their  crafts  in  their  open  workshops. 

Adjoining  the  bazaar  on  the  S.  is  Hadrian's  Library  (PI.  D,  5), 
with  its  back  to  the  Rue  d'Eole,  a  massive  edifice  of  134  by  90  yds. 

A  gate  (keys  at  the  provision-shop  opposite)  leads  from  the  Rue  d'Eole 
into  the  quadrangle,  once  bordered  with  a  colonnade.  The  columns  still 
standing  and  the  building  in  the  middle  are  restorations.  On  the  wall  of 
the  large  hall  on  the  E.  side  are  seen  the  places  where  the  bookshelves 
were  attached,  as  in  the  Pergamon  library. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  library,  reached  from  the  outside,  still 
stands  the  N.  half  of  the  main  facade,  known  as  Hadrian's  Stoa. 
The  marble  wall  is  embellished  with  seven  monolithic  columns, 
28  ft.  high,  with  rich  Corinthian  capitals.  An  eighth  column  with 
the  wall  of  the  anta  belonged  to  the  colonnade  of  the  chief  portal. — 
Near  this  is  the  Stoa  of  Attalos  (p.  521). 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  Rue  d'Eole  rises  the  so-called  Tower  of 
the  Winds  (PI.  D,  6;  custodian  20-30  1.),  a  well-preserved  octa- 
gonal marble  edifice  of  the  1st  ceut.  B.C.,  more  accurately  named  the 
Horologion  of  Andronikos  of  Kyrrhos.  On  the  upper  spaces  of 
the  eight  walls,  which  are  turned  towards  the  different  points  of 


Stoa  of  Attalog.  ATHENS.  79.  Route.     52-1 

the  compass,  are  reliefs  representing  the  various  winds;  below  are 
seen  the  lines  of  sun-dials.  The  round  channels  in  the  pavement 
inside,  into  which  water  flowed  from  a  semicircular  cistern  outside, 
belonged  to  a  water-clock. 

Lanes  and  steps  ascend  here  to  the  S.  to  a  path  skirting  the  N.  slope 
of  the  Acropolis  and  leading  to  the  right  to  its  entrance  (10  min. ;  p.  512). 

A  large  paved  quadrangle  to  the  W.  of  the  Tower  of  the  Winds 
is  supposed  to  have  been  a  Roman  Macellum  (Agora  or  market). 
It  is  entered  from  the  W.  by  the  Market  Gate  {Porte  de  V Agora; 
PL  C,  6).  Four  slender  Doric  columns,  2(i  ft.  high,  support  a  massive 
architrave  with  a  frieze  of  triglyphs  and  metopes  and  a  fairly  well 
preserved  pediment.  According  to  the  inscription  on  the  archi- 
trave the  gateway  was  erected  about  the  time  of  the  birth  of  Christ. 
In  line  with  the  N.  central  column  is  a  tablet  of  Hadrian's  age, 
inscribed  with  regulations  about  the  prices  of  oil,  salt,  etc. 

From  the  Market  Gate  we  follow  the  Poikile  Street  to  the  W. 
to  the  Stoon  Street  and  descend  the  latter  to  the  right.  The  second 
crooked  side-street  on  the  right  then  leads  to  the  entrance  (red  door 
on  the  right;  keeper  20  1.)  of  the  Stoa  of  Attalos  (PL  C,  5,  6). 
This  grand,  two-storied  market-hall  was  erected,  as  the  inscription 
on  the  architrave,  pieced  together  in  front  of  the  colonnade,  records, 
by  king  Attalos  II.  of  Pergamon  (B.C.  159-138).  It  was  123  yds. 
long  and  22  yds.  deep,  and  formed  the  E.  boundary  of  the  Kera- 
meikos  market  (p.  522).  The  groundfloor  contained  21  closed 
chambers  16  ft.  deep,  in  front  of  which  ran  a  long  colonnade.  The 
traders  probably  had  their  stalls  in  the  hall,  while  the  closed  rooms 
were  used  for  storage. 

We  now  descend  to  the  N.,  across  the  railway  cutting,  to  the  Rue 
d'Adrien,  follow  the  latter  to  the  left  for  a  hundred  paces,  and  turn 
to  the  left  (S.)  into  Eponymon  Street;  here,  on  the  left,  sixty  paces 
farther,  is  the  Stoa  of  the  Giants  (PL  G.;  C,  5),  a  ruin  so  named 
from  its  three  great  Atlantes  (beam-bearers). 

A  little  farther  to  the  W.,  on  the  ancient  Kolonos  Agora ros 
('Hill  of  the  Market' ;  see  p.  522),  rises  the  **Theseion  (PL  B,  5), 
the  best-preserved  of  all  the  ancient  Greek  buildings.  The  massive 
construction,  the  life-like  sculptures,  and  the  dark  golden  hue  of 
the  Pentelic  marble  are  singularly  impressive.  The  temple,  com- 
monly called  Theseion,  and  converted  into  the  church  of  St.  George 
in  lb"  Christian  period,  is  now  supposed  to  have  been  dedicated  to 
Ilrjjhai'stos  and  Athena.  The  style  of  the  building  and  its  sculp- 
tures have  led  different  authorities  to  assign  its  erection  to  a  date 
a  little  before  or  a  little  after  that  of  the  Parthenon.  At  all  events 
il  was  completed  by  421  B.C.,  as  an  inscription  records  the  setting 
up  in  that  year  of  the  two  sacred  images. 

The  temple  stands  on  a  marble  basement  in  two  steps,  35  by 
15  yds.,  and  is  enclosed  by  34  Doric  columns,  IS  ft.  high,  6  at  each 


522     Route  79.  ATHENS.  Theseion. 

end  and  13  on  each  side  (the  corner-columns  being  counted  twice). 
They  are  rather  more  slender  than  those  of  the  Parthenon,  and  like 
them  lean  slightly  inwards.  Above  the  architrave,  which  is  undivid- 
ed, runs  a  Doric  frieze  of  triglyphs  and  metopes,  encircling  the 
whole  building.  The  metopes,  however,  are  adorned  with  sculpture 
only  on  the  main  (E.)  facade  and  the  immediately  adjoining  spaces 
on  each  side.  In  front  are  depicted  the  exploits  of  Hercules,  on  the 
sides  those  of  Theseus.  The  building  is  crowned  with  a  cornice 
and  pediments.    The  statuary  of  the  tympana  has  disappeared. 

The  nucleus  of  the  temple  consists  of  the  cella,  13  yds.  long, 
at  each  end  of  which  is  a  vestibule,  formed  by  the  antse  and  two 
columns  between  them,  and  opening  on  to  the  colonnade.  The  E. 
vestibule  now  has  a  modern  wall  with  a  built-up  door  instead  of 
the  columns.  The  coffered  ceiling  on  this  side  has  been  preserved 
intact.  The  "W.  vestibule  retains  its  original  aspect,  except  that  a 
door  has  been  broken  through  the  wall  at  the  back.  The  upper 
part  of  the  cella  wall  is  embellished,  as  in  the  Parthenon,  with  a 
relief-frieze  (in  Parian  marble),  which  here,  however,  is  limited 
to  the  two  facades  and  the  eastmost  part  of  the  sides.  The  E.  part 
of  the  frieze  represents  a  battle  (between  the  Athenians  and  the 
Pelasgians?),  witnessed  by  the  gods.  The  W.  frieze  portrays  the 
struggle  of  the  Lapithae  and  Athenians  against  the  Centaurs.  —  The 
interior  of  the  temple  contains  nothing  of  special  interest. 

Many  Englishmen  were  buried  within  this  temple  in  the  Turkish 
period. 

To  the  E.  and  N.  of  the  Theseion  lay  the  Kcrameikos,  or  pot- 
ters' quarter,  to  which,  in  the  6th  cent.,  the  Market  was  trans- 
ferred from  the  S.W.  slope  of  the  Acropolis.  This,  like  the  Forum 
at  Rome,  was  the  centre  of  classical  Athens. 

The  market  was  adorned  with  statue.-;  of  great  poets  and  orators,  such 
as  Pindar  and  Demosthenes.  Around  it  rose  the  chief  public  buildings. 
Among  them  were  the  Stoa  Basileios  (PI.  B,  5;  seat  of  the  Archon  Bas- 
ileus),  the  foundations  of  which  (6th  cent.)  are  supposed  to  have  been 
discovered  at  No.  14  Poseidon  Street.;  also  the  Metroon,  or  temple  of  the 
mother  of  the  gods,  the  Buleuterion,  or  town-hall,  etc. 

To  the  N.W.  of  the  Theseion  a  bridge  crosses  the  Pineus 
railway  (p.  495)  to  the  Theseion  Station  (PI.  B,  5).  To  the  W.  of 
this  we  reach  the  continuation  of  the  Rue  du  Piree.  Following 
the  latter  for  150  paces  to  the  N.E.  towards  the  town,  and  just 
before  reaching  the  conspicuous  yellow  and  red  chapel  of  Hagia 
Tridda  or  Trias  (PI.  A,  4),  we  come  to  a  gate  on  the  right  leading 
into  the  ancient  cemetery  at  theDipylon  (small  gratuity  on  leaving). 
Here  we  follow  an  ancient  side-street,  bordered  with  tombs,  as  far 
as  the  walls  (see  PI.  A,  4),  which  we  skirt  to  the  left.  At  their  N.E. 
end  we  reach  the  outer  Dipylon. 

The  Dipylon  (PI.  B,  4),  the  only  ancient  'double  gate'  of 
Athens  (end  of  4th  cent.),  was  the  chief  entrance  of  the  city.   Here 


Dipylon.  ATHENS.  7$.  Route.     523 

converged  the  roads  coming  from  Megara  in  the  Peloponnesus  and 
Eleusis  and  from  Platsea  and  Thebes  in  Bceotia;  and  from  this  gate 
ran  the  Drumos,  a  great  colonnaded  street,  to  the  S.E.,  below  the 
Theseion  hill,  to  the  Kerameikos  market-place  (p.  522).  The  left 
side  of  the  gateway  has  wholly  disappeared,  but  a  few  blocks, 
attached  to  their  base,  of  the  right  (S.)  wall  are  still  visible.  In  front 
of  these  rises  a  considerable  part  of  the  S.  gateway-tower.  In  the 
centre  are  traces  of  the  pier  between  the  two  passages.  This  outer 
gateway  was  connected  with  an  inner  gateway,  on  precisely  the 
same  plan,  by  walls  38  yds.  long,  thus  forming  an  enclosed  court. 
The  S.E.  tower  was  adjoined  on  the  E.  by  a  well-house. 

To  the  S.W.  of  the  Dipylon  the  City  Wall,  here  only  6>/2  ft. 
thick,  has  been  brought  to  light.  The  carefully  jointed  blocks  of 
blue  limestone  rest  on  the  hastily  built  wall  of  Themistokles 
(479-478);  the  upper  part  was  built  of  sun-dried  brick.  Outside 
this  wall  once  rose  a  rampart,  probably  coeval  with  the  Dipylon, 
14  ft.  thick,  consisting  of  two  walls  with  earth  between.  Beside 
the  city  wall,  five  paces  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Dipylon,  is  an  ancient 
boundary-stone;  seventy  paces  farther  are  remains  of  another  gate- 
way, probably  the  Funeral  Gate.  This,  like  the  Dipylon,  con- 
sisted of  two  gate-buildings,  enclosing  a  court,  though  it  had  only 
a  single  passage.  Through  it,  by  the  roadside,  flowed  the  little 
brook  Eridanos. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Dipylon,  in  the  direction  of  the  Hagia  Triada 
Chapel,  we  soon  reach  the  *Burial  Ground  outside  the 
Dipylon,  the  principal  cemetery  of  ancient  Athens.  As  at  Rome 
and  Pompeii  the  tombs  bordered  the  highroads  outside  the  gates. 
In  this  case  the  more  durable  monuments  have  been  left  by  the  ex- 
cavators in  their  original  positions.  Some  of  these  are  artistically 
executed,  others  seem  to  have  been  merely  rectangular  walled  spaces. 
In  ancient  days,  as  now,  the  ground  was  very  uneven;  some  of  the 
tombs  close  to  the  road  were  raised  on  terraces  5-8  ft.  above  it. 

Before  reaching  the  Hagia  Triada  Chapel,  we  observe,  on  the  left  side 
of  the  road,  two  stelsB  ou  Doric  substructures,  the  tombs  of  Thersandro* 
and  Simylos  (375  B.  C.)  and  of  Pythagoras  (5th  cent.).  Ascending  to  the 
left  beyond  a  depression  in  the  soil  we  come  to  a  temple-shaped  tomb, 
with  figures  of  Demetria  and  Pamphile,  dating  from  the  middle  of  the 
4th  century.  Close  to  the  Hagia  Triada  Chapel  is  a  large  block  of  marble 
resembling  a  sarcophagus,  the  Tomb  of  Hipparete  (middle  of  the  dth  cent.). 
—  To  the  left,  on  and  beyond  the  stone  wall  of  the  side-street  mentioned 
at  p.  522,  are  rows  of  tombs,  arranged  in  order  of  families  and  phylae  or 
tribes  and  extending  down  to  the  Roman  period.  At  the  corner  is  that 
of  the  family  of  Lysanias,  with  a  *Relief  of  Dexileos  on  horseback,  who 
distinguished  himself  before  Corinth  in  391-393;  the  weapons  and  bridle  were 
added  in  bronze.  Next  come  the  tombs  of  the  family  oiAgathon  (4th  cent.) ; 
that  of  his  wife  Korallion  represents  a  family  group ;  then  a  temple-shaped 
tomb,  the  interior  of  which  was  adorned  with  paintings  now  almost  com- 

fletely  erased.     Farther  on   is  a  monument  crowned   with  a  huge  bull. 
n    front   of   it   is   another    little   temple-like    monument    with    traces    of 
painting;  then   a  great  Molossian  hound.     Beyond  it,   a  toinb-rclief  with 
Baedeker's  Mediterranean.  34 


524     Rovto  79  ATHENS.  Fny*  H"l- 

a  boat.  —  Opposite  the  hound  is  the  *Tomb  of  Ifegeso,  perhaps  the  finest 
of  all,  a  lady  at  her  toilet  attended  by  a  maid  (4th  cent.).  About  twenty 
paces  short  of  the  keeper's  house,  and  thirty  paces  to  the  S.  of  the  path, 
is  a  graceful  Ilydrophoros  or  female  water-carrier  (5-4th  cent.). 


The  range  of  bills  to  the  W.  of  the  Acropolis  and  Areopagus, 
now  uninhabited,  was  a  favourite  residential  quarter  of  the  ancient 
city,  as  is  evidenced  by  countless  remains  of  steps,  cisterns,  con- 
duits, walls,  and  streets.  From  the  Theseion  (223  ft.)  we  ascend 
the  broad  Avenue  of  the  Apostle  Paul  (PI.  B,  6),  where,  immed- 
iately on  the  right,  rises  the  Hagia  Marina  Hill,  thickly  strewn 
with  relics  of  ancient  dwellings.  Above  it  rises  the  Hill  of  the 
Nymphs,  crowned  with  the  Observatory  (PI.  A,  6;  345  ft.). 

To  the  S.  of  the  Observatory  a  road  descends  into  a  slight 
hollow  and  then  ascends  the  long  Pnyx  Hill  (PL  B,  7;-  358  ft.), 
the  structure  on  the  N.E.  slope  of  which  is  distinctly  visible  from 
the  Areopagus  and  Acropolis.  This  consists  of  a  terrace  or  plat- 
form, 131  yds.  long  and  71  yds.  wide,  the  upper  margin  of  which  is 
cut  out  of  the  rock,  while  the  lower  part  is  buttressed  by  a  massive 
wall  of  huge  blocks  of  stone,  forming  a  slightly  flattened  semicircle. 
In  front  of  the  abrupt  back-wall  of  the  terrace,  about  13  ft.  high, 
rise  three  steps  bearing  a  cube  of  rock.  This  has  been  identified 
with  the  Pnyx,  the  place  where,  before  the  tiers  of  stone  benches 
were  erected  in  the  theatre  of  Dionysos  (p.  510),  the  Athenians  held 
their  political  assemblies.  The  orator's  tribune  (bema)  is  supposed 
to  have  been  attached  to  sockets  on  the  platform  in  front  of  the 
cube  of  rock.  The  space  occupied  by  the  listening  throng  of  cit- 
izens sloped  gradually  up  to  the  supporting  wall,  which  at  that 
time  was  much  higher.  Above  the  cube  once  ran  an  upper  terrace, 
where  there  rose  a  similar  rock-altar,  now  much  damaged.  From 
this  point  we  obtain  a  very  striking  view  of  the  Acropolis. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Pnyx  Hill,  in  a  depression,  is  the  chapel  of 
Hagios  Demctrios  Lumpardidris  (PL  B,  7),  to  the  S.  of  which 
we  now  ascend  the  Philopappos  Hill,  the  ancient  Museion.  On  its 
crest  we  recognize  many  fragments  of  the  ancient  city-wall,  which 
was  joined  by  the  Long  Walls  (p.  506)  on  the  heights  near  the 
Monument  and  near  the  Observatory  (see  above). 

The'  Monument  of  Philopappos  (PL  B,  8)  was  built  in 
114-16  A.D.  The  upper  part,  in  Pentelic  marble,  two-thirds  pre- 
served, had  a  frieze  in  high  relief,  crowned  with  three  niches  sepa- 
rated by  Corinthian  half-columns.  The  statue  seated  in  the  central 
niche  is  that  of  Antiochos  Philopappos;  to  the  left  is  that  of  his 
grandfather  Antiochos  IV.  Epiphanes  (p.  507).  The  relief  is  sup- 
posed to  represent  the  ceremonial  progress  of  Philopappos  in  his 
consular  capacity.  The  square  chamber  behind  was  the  burial-place. 

Very  beautiful,  especially  at  sunset,  is  the  *View  from  the  Philo- 
pappos Hill.    The  Acropolis  is   visible  in  its  full  extent;  at  its   base 


Academy.  ATHENS.  79.  Route.     525 

»re  the  Odeion  and  the  Theatre  of  Dionysos;  to  the  light  of  these  rise 
Hadrian's  Arch  and  the  hills  of  the  Stadion  and  Dymettos.  To  the  left  of 
the  Acropolis  are  the  Theseion  and  the  Hill  of  the  Nymphs,  and  beyond 
them  the  Athenian  plain,  bounded  by  iEgaleos,  and  Parnes.  Above  the 
Acropolis  rise  Mt.  Lykabettos  and  part  of  Peutelikon.  Towards  the  S. 
stretches  the  Saronic  tiulf. 


d.  The  Modern  Quarters. 

From  the  Place  de  la  Constitution  two  broad  streets  lead  to  the 
N.W.  to  the  Place  de  la  Concorde:  the  Rue  du  Stade  (PI.  F-D,  5-3) 
and  the  Bonl.  de  l'Universite.  In  the  former,  immediately  to  the 
right,  arc  the  Royal  Slables;  then  on  the  left,  standing  a  little 
back,  the  Parliament  House  (PI.  E,  5). 

In  the  Boulevard  de  l'Universite  the  first  house  on  the  right 
(PI.  S. ;  F,  5),  is  that  of  Dr.  Schliemann  (1822-90),  the  famous 
discoverer  of  Troy,  Mycenae,  and  Tiryns.  Farther  on  on  the  right 
arc  also  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  (PI.  F,  4)  and  the — 

"Academy  of  Science  (PI.  F,  4),  built  of  Pentelic  marble 
in  1859-84.  The  style  is  classic  Grecian,  with  Ionic  porticos,  tym- 
pana embellished  with  sculptures,  and  rich  colouring,  thus  resem- 
bling a  classic  edifice  in  its  palmy  days.  The  tympanum  group  of 
the  main  building  (birth  of  Athena)  and  the  statues  of  Plato  (left) 
and  Socrates  (right),  opposite  the  entrance,  are  by  Drosos. 

From  the  vestibule  a  passage  to  the  right,  descending  a  few  steps, 
leads  to  the  Numismatic  Museum  (adrn.,  p.  501),  containing  a  valuable 
collection  of  coins,  chiefly  from  countries  influenced  by  Grecian  civilization. 

Adjacent  is  the  University  (PI.  F,  3,  4),  founded  in  1837.  It 
also  has  an  Ionic  portico  and  is  enriched  with  colouring.  The 
organization  is  similar  to  that  of  the  German  universities.  There 
are  about  a  hundred  professors  and  lecturers  and  2800  students. 
The  buildings  contain  also  the  natural  history  collections. 

The  adjacent  Library  (PI.  E,  3;  National  and  University, 
united  in  1903),  a  handsome  edifice  in  Pentelic  marble,  contains 
314,000  vols,  and  2530  MSS. 

The  Rue  du  Stade  and  the  Boulevard  de  l'Universit6  cross  the  Rue 
d'Eolc  (p.  520)  and  its  prolongation  the  Rne  de  Patisia  (see  below) 
and  end  at  tho  Place  de  la  Concorde  (Plateia  tes  Omoneias ; 
PI.  D,  2,  3;  tramways,  p.  503),  planted  with  trees  and  much  fre- 
quented in  the  evening.  From  its  S.  side  runs  the  Rue  d'Athena 
(PL  D,  3-5)  and  from  its  S.W.  angle  the  Rue  du  Piree  (PI.  D-A,3,4; 
line  view  of  the  sea  in  the  evening).  To  the  W.  runs  the  Rue  Con- 
stants, with  the  handsome  new  Constantine  Church  (PI.  C,  2)  and 
the  new  National  Theatre  opposite  (p.  504).  At  the  end  of  it  the 
road  to  the  Peloponnesus  Station  (p.  502)  bends  round  to  the  right. 

In  the  Rue  de  Patisia  (PI.  D,  E,  2,  1),  near  the  outskirts  of  the 
town,  on  the  right,  are  the  Polytechnic  and  the  National  Museum. 

34* 


526     Route  79.  ATHENS.  National  Museum. 

The  Polytechnic  Institute  (PI.  E,  1),  built  in  1858  of  Pentelic 
marble,  consists  of  a  two-storied  central  edifice  in  the  Doric  and 
Ionic  styles  and  two  Doric  wings.  The  upper  floor  of  the  main  build- 
ing contains  the  Historical  and  Ethnological  Museum  (adm.,  see 
p.  504),  a  collection  of  memorials  of  the  Greek  war  of  independ- 
ence, costumes,  etc. — Beyond  the  next  side-street  is  the  Museum. 

e.  The  National  Archaeological  Museum. 

The  ** National  Archaeological  Museum  (PI.  E,  1),  erected 
in  1866-89,  contains  the  collections  of  antiquities  belonging  to  the 
state  (other  than  those  of  the  Acropolis,  Olympia,  Delphi,  etc.). 
Adm.,  see  p.  504.  In  the  central  rooms  are  exhibited  the  Mycenaean 
and  Egyptian  antiquities,  in  the  left  (N.)  wing  the  marble  sculp- 
tures, in  the  E.  annex  the  bronzes,  and  in  the  S.  wing  the  vases. 

From  the  Vestibule  we  go  straight  into  the  central  building. 

*Room  of  the  Mycenaean  Antiquities  (about  B.C.  1500-1000;  comp. 
p.  416).  The  cases  Nos.  1-11  in  the  middle  contain  the  objects  found  in 
the  richly  furnished  royal  tombs  in  the  citadel  of  Mycenae,  the  traditional 
burial-place  of  Agamemnon  and  his  family.  They  comprise  trinkets, 
bronze  weapons,  vessels  and  utensils  of  gold,  silver,  and  clay,  etc.;  thus, 
in  stands  20  and  24  are  golden  masks  used  to  cover  the  faces  of  the 
dead  bodies,  in  stand  27  a  double-handled  beaker  with  doves,  like  that  of 
Nestor  described  by  Homer.  The  five  reliefs  on  limestone  slabs  (Nos.  51-55), 
in  the  centre  of  the  side-walls,  were  found  above  the  tombs.  No.  50,  a 
case  in  the  centre,  shows  the  6th  tomb  exactly  as  when  discovered  in  1878. 

The  other  cases  contain  relics  of  the  same  period  from  Mycenae,  and 
also,  of  rather  later  date,  from  other  places  in  Greece,  where  the  tombs 
were  more  plainly  fitted  up.  At  the  end  of  the  room,  on  columns:  *1758, 
*1759.  Gold  goblets  from  Vaphio  (near  Sparta),  with  life-like  embossed 
scenes  of  browsing  cattle  and  a  bull-hunt.  In  the  centre,  in  the  detached 
glass-case  No.  4,  are  chased  and  inlaid  *Daggers. 

Adjacent,  straight  on,  is  the  Egyptian  Room. 

We  return  to  the  Vestibule  and  enter  the  N.  wing,  containing  the 
Marble  Sculptures. 

Room  op  Archaic  Akt  (7-6th  cent.).  To  the  left  in  the  ante-room, 
No.  1.  Female  Statue  (votive  offering  of  Nikandre,  primitive),  and  Nos. 
6,  57.  Female  seated  Statues;  in  the  chief  room  are  the  so-called  Apollo 
Figures,  nude,  some  of  them  probably  of  deceased  persons  exalted  into 
heroes;  of -this  series  No.  10,  by  the  right  wall,  and  Nos.  1904  and  9,  by 
the  left,  are  followed  by  many  others,  progressive  in  style.  Also  in  the 
chief  room,  in  front  of  the  column  on  the  right,  No.  21.  Winged  Nike. 
By  the  right  wall,  2687,  1959.  Tomb  Stelae.  By  the  left  pillar  at  the 
entrance,  and  also  to  the  left  farther  on,  30,  S6.  Painted  Stelae,  and  29. 
Stela  of  Aristion,  with  the  painted  relief  of  a  warrior. 

Room  op  the  Athena  (5-4th  cent.).  In  the  centre,  129.  Varvakion 
Statuette,  a  copy  in  marble,  39  inches  high,  of  the  ivory  and  gold  statue  of 
Parthenos  by  Phidias  (p.  516),  appearing  somewhat  heavy  in  its  reduced  size, 
as  the  original  was  intended  to  be  viewed  from  a  distance.  —  To  the  left  of 
the  entrance,  *126.  The  Eleusinian  Relief,  Demeter  and  Kore  presenting 
the  young  Triptolemos  (father  of  husbandry)  with  grains  of  corn  (5th  cent.). 
By  the  pillar,  177.  Female  ideal  head.— Left  wall,  178.  Boar's  Bead,  and 
179,  180.  Heads  of  Youths,  probably  by  Skopas;  *181.  So-called  Fubuleus, 
resembling  the  Hermes  of  Praxiteles;  182.  Head  of  Aphrodite;  159-161. 
Three  graceful  figures  of  Nike.  —  Wall  of  exit,  128.  So-called  Lenormant's 
statuette  of  Athena,  another  copy  of  Phidias's  Parthenos,  more  faithful 
in  detail  (base,  shield,  etc.)  than  tho  Varvakion  statuette;   1783.   Votive 


National  Museum  ATHENS.  ™.  Route.     527 

Relief,  two-shied.—  By  right  wall,  136-174.  Sculptures  and  architectural 
fragments  from  the  temple  of  iEsculapius  at  Epidauros  (4th  cent.). 

Room  of  the  Hermes  (5-4th  cent.).  Left  wall,  218.  So-called  Hermes 
OfAndros,  similar  to  that  of  Praxiteles;  to  the  left  of  it,  221,  222.  Frieze 
from  Lamia,  a  procession  of  Tritons,  Nereids,  and  Cupids;  to  the  right, 
*2ir>-i!l7.  Marble  Pedestal  from  Mantinea,  with  the  contest  between  Apollo 
and  Marsyas,  of  the  school  of  Praxiteles.  Then,  in  front  of  the  pilaster, 
1733.  Square  Pedestals  probably  by  Bryaxis  (4th  cent.).  —  In  the  right 
half  of  the  room  are  four  works  by  Damophon  (2nd  cent.  B.  C),  from 
Lykosura:  to  the  left  of  the  entrance,  1736.  Head  in  the  style  of  the 
Zeus  of  Otricoli  in  Rome;  on  the  right  and  left  of  the  exit,  two  female 
heads;  near  the  former,  1737.  Fragment  of  drapery,  with  grotesque  orna- 
mentation. Also  in  front  of  the  window-wall,  *1463.  Triangular  Tripod 
Base,  with  Dionysos  and  two  female  figures,  of  the  school  of  Praxiteles. 
By  the  window-wall.  1561-1583.  Sculptures  from  the  Heraeon  at  Argos 
(about  400  B.C.),  incl.  No.  1571,  a  fine  female  head. 

Straight  on,  we  pass  through  the  Poseidon  Room  to  the  (left)  — 

Room  op  Themis.  Right  wall,  231.  Colossal  statue  of  Themis  (about 
300  B.  C).  —  Two  marble  statues  found  in  1900-1  among  others  at  the 
bottom  of  the  sea  in  the  strait  of  Kythera:  one,  by  the  wall  of  entrance, 
a  wrestler,  about  to  kneel  (Hellenistic  style);  the  other,  in  the  right 
corner,  figure  of  a  youth,  coated  with  shells. 

Room  op  Poseidon  (Hellenistic  and  Roman  periods).  By  the  entrance, 
235.  Colossal  figure  of  Poseidon.  —  In  the  centre,  261.  Maenad  asleep. 
—  By  the  left  wall,  239.  Satyr,  from  Lamia;  240.  Hermes  of  Atalante  ; 
244.  Youth,  from  Eretria  (head  recalling  the  Hermes  of  Praxiteles);  234. 
Colossal  head  of  Athena;  243.  Hermes  with  the  Ram;  262.  Aphrodite, 
with  transparent  drapery.  —  To  the  right  of  the  exit,  *247.  Celtic  Warrior, 
fallen  in  battle,  recalling  the  Pergamenian  groups.  —  Right  side,  1826. 
Copy  of  the  Diadumenos  of  Polykleitos;  252,251.  Statuettes  of  Pan;  257. 
Silenos,  with  the  young  Dionysos  on  his  left  shoulder;  258.  JEsculapius. 

Room  of  the  Kosmetje.    To  the  left  of  the  entrance,  249.  Hadrian; 

right,  420.    Head  with  long  hair  and  Semitic  features  (recalling  heads  of 

Christ).—  Near  the  exit,  417,  418.  Antinous.  — Near  the  left  wall,  384-416. 

and  heads  of  Kosmetae  (officials  of  the  Ephebic  gymnasia  of  Athens), 

of  the  early  centuries  A.  D. — Mosaic  from  the  Piraeus. 

TunEE  Rooms  op  Tomb  Reliefs,  chiefly  of  the  golden  age  of  Greek 
art.  — Room  of  Tomb  Vases,  massive  marble  vases  of  the  Greek  ages, 
mostly  tall  slender  lekythi  (for  perfumes)  and  amphora;.  —  Room  of  the 
Sarcophaoi  and  of  sepulchral  decorations  of  the  Greek  and  Roman  ages. 

To  the  left  is  the  annex  containing  the  Bronzes. 

I.  Bronze  Room.  In  the  centre,  13,396.  Statue  of  a  Youth,  over 
life-size,  stretching  out  his  right  hand,  a  good  work  of  the  4th  cent., 
(reconstructed);  this  is  the  finest  of  the  sculptures  found  in  the  strait 
of  Kythera.  —  To  the  right  of  the  entrance,  Archaic  Bronzes  from  the 
Acropolis,  votive  offerings,  implements,  and  utensils,  mostly  found  in 
the  rubbish  left  by  the  Persians  (p.  506);  the  finest  are  Nos.  6447,  6448. 
Statuettes  of  Athena,  6145.  Statuette  of  a  youth;  6446.  Bearded  head,  with 
eyes  inserted.  —  To  the  left,  Bronzes  from  Olympia,  primitive  and  archaic 
little  figures  of  animals  and  men,  weapons,  and  implements;  on  columns, 
6439.  Realistic  head  of  an  athlete  (Hellenistic),  7474.  Statuette  of  a  youth. 

II.  Bronze  Room,  containing  bronze  Figurines,  Statuettes,  Imple- 
ments, and  Utensils  (vases,  lamps,  mirrors,  helmets,  strigils,  bracelets, 
rings,  brooches,  surgical  instruments).  —  To  the  left  of  the  entrance  of 
the  next  room,  11,761.    Statue  of  Poseidon  (early  5th  cent.). 

III.  Bronze  Room  (rotunda)  contains  the  other  bronzes  found  in  the 
strait  of  Kythera  (comp.  R.  I).  To  the  right  of  the  entrance,  13,399.  Figure 
of  a  youth,"  in  the  style  of  the  older  Argive  school,  still  on  its  old  pedestal ; 
18,897  and  13,398.  Statuettes  of  youths;  13,400.     Hellenistic  head. 

We  return  to  the  Sarcophagus  Room  and  pass  to  the  left  through 
the  Room  of  the  Roman  Tomb  Reliefs  to  the  — 


528     Boitle  79.  ATHENS.  T.ylcabettos. 

Room  or  the  Votive  Reliefs.  By  the  entrance  wall  and  on  the 
left  are  votive  reliefs  from  the  Asklepieion  (p.  511).  The  most  elaborately 
executed  is  No.  1377,  near  the  middle  of  the  left  wall  (4th  cent.);  adjacent 
is  No.  2565,  in  the  form  of  a  stele.  —  The  Karapakos  Room  is  chiefly 
devoted  to  relics  from  the  Zeus  oracle  at  Dodona. 

On  tht  S.  side  of  the  museum  is  the  Collection  of  Vases.  The 
finest  are  mostly  from  Attica,  the  chief  seat  of  the  vase-painting  of  the 
G-4th  cent.,  such  as  the  Black-figured  Vases,  with  their  silhouette-lilce 
figures  painted  in  black  (6th  cent.;  Room  I,  cabinets  13-23);  the  Red- 
'Igured  Vases,  vessels  entirely  covered  with  a  black  glaze,  the  figures 
aloue,  on  their  original  red  ground,  remaining  free  (after  middle  of  6th  cent. ; 
Room  II) ;  and  the  Lekythi,  slender  vessels  for  perfumes,  with  coloured 
figures  on  a  white  ground  (after  the  Persian  wars ;  Room  III,  cabinets  41-50). 

Adjacent  are  three  front-rooms  containing  the  Terracottas,  includ- 
ing fine  sets  of  figurines  of  the  best  period  (5-4th  cent.).  In  the  last 
room  are  exhibited  also  antique  trinkets  and  vessels. 


f.  "Walks. 

The  ascent  of  Lykabett6s  (909  ft.),  the  finely  shaped  hill  to 
the  N.E.  of  Athens,  is  specially  attractive  by  early  morning  or  late 
evening  light.  We  diverge  to  the  N.  from  the  Rue  de  Kephisia  at 
the  end  of  the  palace-garden  (PI.  G,  5),  cross  the  Kolonaki  Square 
(n.  G,  H,  5),  and  in  6  min.  reach  the  reservoir  of  the  Water  Conduit 
of  Hadrian,  now  utilized  anew  (PL  H,  4;  445  ft.),  where  there  is 
a  small  cafe  commanding  a  fine  view.  Hence  we  proceed  to  the 
Lukianos  Street,  from  the  N.  end  of  which  an  easy  path  ascends 
through  young  plantations.  After  the  first  zigzags  a  level  path 
(PI.  H,  3)  diverging  to  the  left  affords  almost  finer  views  than  the 
top  of  the  hill.  The  path  straight  on  ascends  to  the  Georgios  Chapel 
(PI.  H,  3)  on  the  summit  in  J/2  hr.  more. 

The  view  embraces  the  city  of  Athens,  with  the  Acropolis  and  the 
Attic  plain,  the  Piraeus,  the  bay  of  Phaleron,  and  the  Saronic  Gulf,  with 
Mgina.  and  Salamis  and  the  distant  mountains  of  Argolis;  to  the  right 
of  Salamis  are  the  hills  of  Corinth  and  Megara;  in  the  foreground,  con- 
cealing the  bay  of  Eleusis,  rises  Mt.  iEgaleos;  farther  to  the  N.  is  Mt. 
Parnes.  Between  the  latter  and  Pentelikon,  which  rises  to  the  N-E., 
extends  the  upper  plain  of  Attica.     To  the  E.  is  Mt.  Hymettos. 

A  fine  view  of  Athens  and  the  Acropolis  is  obtained  also  from  the 
Kolon6s  hill,  the  legendary  home  of  Sophocles.  From  the  Place 
de  la  Concorde  (PI.  D,  2,  3)  we  follow  the  tramway  to  KoloJcythu 
(comp.  PI.  A,  1)  and  reach  the  hill  in  1/2  hr. ;  it  rises  to  the  right 
of  the  road  and  is  recognized  by  the  conspicuous  monuments  of  the 
antiquarians  Otfried  Mailer  (d.  1840)  andChas.Lenormant  (d.1859). 
Adjacent  lay  the  Akademeia,  the  grove  where  Plato  taught. 

The  most  popular  resort  on  fine  summer  evenings  is  New 
Phaleron  (tramway  and  Piraeus  railway,  see  p.  503),  -on  the  bay 
of  Phaleron.  A  band  plays  in  the  evening  on  the  broad  coast- 
terrace,  with  its  cafes  and  bath-houses  (bath  40  1.). — A  branch 
of  the  tramway  runs  to  the  quieter  sea-baths  of  Old  Phaleron 
(comp.  p.  503). — The  Piraeus,  see  p.  494. 


xx\a  e  >,   Li  m''::'' 

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iyftardp  (ttHto       ,*. 


529 

80.  Prom  Athens  via  Smyrna 
to  Constantinople. 

545  M.  Steamers  (agents  at  the  Piraeus,  see  pp.  491,  495;  at  Smyrna, 
p.  5S1;  at  Constantinople,  pp.  538,  539).  1.  Xortk  German  Lloyd  (comp. 
Kit.  23,  24,  77),  Mediterranean  &  Levant  Service,  in  either  direction  every 
other  Thurs.;  from  the  Piraeus  to  Smyrna  in  1,  to  Constantinople  in  2-2'/a 
days  (fare  to  Smyrna  40  or  28,  to  Constantinople  72  or  48  mark9).  —  2. 
Uessageries  Maritimes  (comp.  RR.  23,  77),  N.  Mediterranean  service,  from 
the  Piraeus  every  other  Mon.  (from  Constantinople  Thurs.),  to  Smyrna 
in  I,  to  Constantinople  in  2  days  (fare  90  or  60  fr.);  also  the  Marseilles, 
Constantinople,  and  Batum  line,  from  the  Piraeus  Thura.  (from  Constantin- 
ople Tues.),  to  Smyrna  in  1,  to  Constantinople  in  3  days  (fare  80  or  40  fr.). 

—  3.  Khedivial  Mail  Steamship  Co.  (comp.  R.  7C),  from  the  Piraeus  Frid. 
(from  Constantinople  Tues.)  aft.,  to  Smyrna  in  18  hrs.,  to  Constantinople 
in  2  days  (fare  52  or  39,  and  91  or  61  fr.).  —  4.  Austrian  Lloyd  (comp. 
R.  78),  Greek-Oriental  Line,  from  the  Piraeus  Frid.  even,  (from  Constantin- 
ople Mon.),  to  Smyrna  in  2,  to  Constantinople  in  5  days  (fares  54  or  38, 
and  132  or  93  fr.). 

Line  XI  of  the  Societa  Nazionale  (pp.  493,  563)  touches  at  Smyrna 
on  the  outward  voyage  only  (Piraeus  to  Constantinople  3'/2  days). 

To  Constantinople  Direct.  1.  Rumanian  Mail  Live,  from  the  Piraeus 
Sun.  aft.,  in  21  hrs.  (returning  from  Constantinople  Frid.  aft.  in  23  hrs.). 

—  2.  Societa  Nazionale,  Line  XII,  from  the  Piraeus  Thurs.  night,  in  32  hrs. 
(returning  from  Constantinople  Wed.  foren.,  in  31  hrs.);  fares  101  fr.  30, 
70  fr.  70  e.  —  3.  Austrian  Lloyd,  fast  steamers  between  Trieste  and  Con- 
stantinople, from  the  Piraeus  Sat.  aft.,  in  35  hrs.  (from  Constantinople 
Sat.  foren.,  in  29  hrs.);  fare  90  or  60  fr. 

Athens  and  the  Piraeus,  see  pp.  502,  494.  We  first  steer  to  the 
S.E.  across  the  Bay  of  jEgina  (p.  494),  past  the  three  pinnacles 
of  Cape  Zoster,  the  southmost  spar  of  Hymetlos,  and  near  the  islets 
of  Phleva  (ancient  Phabra ;  lighthouse)  and  Gaidaronisi. 

Beyond  Cape  Colonna  or  Kolonnaes  (ancient  Sunion),  on  which 
the  columns  of  the  temple  of  Poseidon  are  conspicuous,  opens  the 
Strait  of  Kea,  between  (left  and  right)  the  lonely  Malcronisi 
(922  ft.;  'long  island';  ancient  Helena)  and  the  fertile  island  of 
Kea  (1863  ft.;  formerly  Keos),  with  its  lighthouse  on  the  head- 
land of  Hagios  Nikolaos.  On  the  left  are  the  Pctali  Islands 
(Pttaliae  Insulae)  in  the  bay  of  that  name,  and  Hagios  Elias 
(5264  ft.),  the  S.  point  of  Euboea. 

We  next  steer  through  the  Straits  of  Doro  (7'/2  M.  in  width; 
Ital.  Canal  d'Oro),  where  a  strong  N.E.  current  prevails  and  storms 
are  frequently  encountered.  They  lie  between  Euboea  and  Andros 
(3199  ft.;  156  sq.  M.),  the  largest  of  the  Cyelades  (p.  492),  with 
the  lighthouse  on  Cape  Fassa.  Beyond  them  we  are  in  the  open  sea. 

Halfway  between  Andros  and  Chios  (p.  492)  are  the  Kalogeros 
Cliffs,  belonging  to  Greece.  Most  of  the  vessels  leave  them  to  the 
right  and  steer  to  the  E.N.E.  to  the  passage  between  the  rocky  island 
of  Psara  (ancient  Psyra;  notable  for  the  revolt  of  the  modern 
Greeks  against  the  Turks)  and  Chios,  with  the  bold  and  conspicuous 
Mt.  Hagios  Elias  (4134  ft.;  Pelinnaeon)  at  its  N.  end.  To  the  N. 
appears  the  S.  coast  of  Mylilini  (p.  533). 


530     Route  80.  GULP  OF  SMYRNA.  From  Athent 

Beyond  the  N.  end  of  the  Straits  of  Chios  (p.  492)  the  Levant 
steamers  (RR.  75,  76)  round  the  steep  limestone  rocks  of  the  Ana- 
tolian peninsula  of  Kara  Bur 'un,  with  the  Boz  Dagh  (3920  ft.; 
ancient  Mimas),  and  come  in  sight  of  the  *Gulf  of  Smyrna,  the 
ancient  Sinus  Hermaeus,  which  runs  34  M.  inland.  The  entrance 
between  (right  and  left)  the  headlands  Kinlu  Burun  and  Arslan 
Burun  (Greek  Cape.  Hydra)  is  15  M.  broad. 

On  the  left,  to  the  S.  of  Arslan  Burun,  near  the  islets  of  Dre- 
panon  and  Oglalc  (lighthouse),  lies  the  little  bay  of  Phokia  (Turk. 
Foja).  This  was  the  ancient  Phocaea,  the  northmost  Ionian  town, 
whose  bold  mariners  first  opened  up  the  W.  Mediterranean  to  the 
Greeks  (comp.  p.  121).  Farther  to  the  S.,  beyond  Cape  Myrminghi 
(lighthouse),  is  the  new  estuary  of  the  Gedis  Chai  (Hermos), 
flanked  with  swampy  alluvial  soil  and  salt-works. 

After  rounding  the  island  of  Kiosteni  (Gr.  Makronisi),  which 
lies  in  front  of  the  E.  slope  of  the  Boz  Dagh  (see  above)  and  masks 
the  Bay  of  Gulbagcheh,  we  sight  to  the  S.,  beyond  the  Marathusa 
Islands,  the  houses  of  Hagios  Joannes  (quarantine  station),  on  an 
islet  in  the  Bay  ofVurld.  Here  once  lay  the  Ionian  town  of  Klazo- 
menae.  The  plain  of  Vurla  is  famed  for  its  wine  and  'Smyrna  figs'. 

Opposite  the  hills  of  the  '■Two  Brothers'1  (Dyo  Adelphia, 
Turk.  IH  Kardash;  3252  ft.)  we  pass  the  narrow  old  channel  of 
the  Gedis  Chai  (lighthouse).  On  a  peninsula  on  the  right  lies  the 
Turkish  Fort  Sanjalc  Kalesi;  farther  on  is  the  suburb  of  Goz 
Tepch  (p.  532).  To  the  N.E.  the  imposing  Yamanlar  Dagh  (p.  533) 
and  the  lofty  Manissa  Dagh  (5905  ft.;  ancient  Sipylos)  beyond  it 
become  more  conspicuous.  To  the  S.  of  the  latter  is  a  depression, 
beyond  which  rises  the  Takhtaly  or  Nif  Dagh.  Beside  the  sea 
rises  the  Pagos  (p.  532)  with  its  old  walls  and  many  cypresses.  On 
its  slopes,  far  to  the  S.W.  and  N.E.,  extends  Smyrna. 


Smyrna.  —  Arrival.  As  soon  as  permission  to  land  is  obtained 
the  hotel-agents,  guides,  and  boatmen  come  on  board.  Landing  or  em- 
barkation, with  baggage  I-IV2  fr->  hut  2-3  fr.  when  the  steamer  anchors  in 
the  outer  roads.  As  to  the  examination  at  the  Custom  House  (PI.  B,  3), 
comp.  p.  537.     The  porter  (hamal)  expects  a  few  silver  piastres. 

Hotels.  *Gr.-Hut.  Kraemcr  Palace  (PI.  c;  B,  3),  Passage  Krsemer 
(p.  532),  with  American  bar,  etc.,  E.  6-20,  B.  1V2,  dej.  4,  D.  5,  pens.  12- 
25  fr. ;  *Gr.-H6t.  Buck  (PI.  a;  B,  4),  on  the  quay,  nearly  opposite  the 
Douane,  pens.  10-25  fr.;  H6t.  de  la  Ville  (PI.  b,  B3;  Ital.  host),  on  the 
quay,  pens.  10-12,  D.  3  fr.  (in  the  season,  March-May,  rather  dearer). 

Cafes  (all  on  the  quay).  Kraemer,  see  above  (also  restaurant,  beer,  etc.): 
Klona?-idis,  in  the  Hot.  de  la  Ville;  Cafe  Costi,  Caft  High  Life,  both  Quai 
Anglais,  etc. 

Post  Offices  British  (PI.  9;  C,  4);  French  (PI.  8;  B,  4);  etc.  — Tele- 
graph Offices.  Turkish  and  Eastern  Telegraph  Co.,  on  the  quay,  ad- 
joining the  Douane  (1st  floor). 


=         v* 


"Sir 
3 

■:r 

- 

- 

J*E- 

vr 

to  Constantinople.  SMYRNA.  SO.  Route.     531 

Cabs  at  the  hotels  and  railway-stations  (bargain  necessary).  Drivers 
often  ignorant  and  exorbitant.  Drive  1  fr.  to  >/•_>  mejidieh,  hr.  1  mej.; 
>/2  day  about  2  mej.  —  Horses  in  the  Place  Fassulah  (PI.  C,  3),  about 
8  mej.  per  day. 

Tramway  from  Konalc  (PI.  A,  6)  along  the  quay  to  Punta  Station 
(Gare  de  la  Folate;  PI.  E,  2),  7  metalliksj  from  Konak  to  Gbz  Tepeh 
(p.  532),  4  metalliks. 

Local  Steamers  to  Kordelio,  G5z  Tepeh,  etc. 

Steamboat  Agents  (offices  all  on  the  quay).  North  German  Lloyd, 
Van  der  Zee  (also  for  German  Levant  Line);  Austrian  Lloyd,  Pussich; 
Khedivial  Mail,  Cohen;  Messageries  Maritimes,  D.  G.  Alevra;  Societa 
Nazionale,  Fratelli  Missir;  German  Levant  Line,  Milberg;  Russian  Steam 
Navigation  &  Trading  Co.,  Beglery. 

Banks.  Banque  Ottomanc  (PI.  B,  4) ;  Credit  Lyonnais,  Rue  Franque 
(p.  532);  Banque  de  Salonique  and  Banque  d'Athenes. —  Money  Changers 
in  front  of  the  Hot.  Huck  and  the  Hcenischer  Passage  (PI.  B,  3,  4);  a  charge 
of  2-5  metalliks  is  made,  according  to  amount.  Perforated  coins  should 
be  rejected. 

Consulates.  British:  consul-general,  II.  D.  Bamham;  vice-consul, 
C.  E.  Heathcote  Smith.  —United  States  (PI.  3;  C,  3):  consul-general,  E.  L. 
Harris;  vice-consul,  E.  A.  Magniflco. 

English  Church  (PI.  E,  2),  near  Gare  de  la  Pointe. 

Smyrna,  Turk.  Izmir,  the  seat  of  the  vali  or  governor  of  the 
Turkish  province  of  Aidin,  lies  in  38°  26'  N.  lat.  and  27°  9'  E. 
long.,  in  a  bay  between  Sanjak  Kalesi  (p.  530)  and  the  Punta 
(La  Pointe;  PI.  D,  E,  1).  As  all  the  older  harbours  on  the  W.  coast 
of  Asia  Minor  have  been  choked  by  alluvial  deposits,  Smyrna  has 
developed  into  the  chief  seaport  of  Anatolia  and  the  largest  city 
in  Turkish  Asia  after  Damascus.  Population,  excl.  suburbs,  about 
200,000,  incl.  over  100,000  Greeks,  00,000  Turks,  20,000  Jews 
(p.  542),  12,000  Armenians,  and  15,000  Europeans  and  Levantines. 
The  chief  languages  are  Greek,  French,  and  Italian. 

Smyrna  was  founded  in  the  11th  cent.  B.C.  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
bay  of  Burnabad  (p.  533),  about  2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  present  city.  The 
Ionians  of  Colophon  (p.  491)  captured  it  for  the  sake  of  its  trade  in  the 
7th  cent,  and  added  it  to  their  league  of  twelve  cities.  About  575  B.C.  it 
was  taken  by  the  Lydian  king  Alyattes,  who  destroyed  it  and  settled  its 
inhabitants  in  villages.  A  new  Smyrna,  as  planned  by  Alexander  the  Great, 
was  founded  later  on  the  Pagos  (p.  532)  by  the  diadochi  Antigonos  and 
Lysimachos,  and  soon  developed  into  one  of  the  finest  towns  in  Asia 
Minor.  After  the  havoc  wrought  by  terrible  earthquakes  in  178  and  180  A.D. 
the  emperor  Marcus  Aurelius  caused  it  to  be  rebuilt.  For  a  time  it  was 
wrested  from  the  Byzantino  emperors  by  Turkish  pirates  (1084)  and  the 
Seljuks  (p.  542).  During  the  Latin  domination  in  Constantinople  (p.  542) 
Smyrna  remained  under  the  sceptre  of  the  Greek  emperor  at  Nikpea.  In 
1344  the  Genoese  and  the  Knights  of  St.  John  took  tne  city  under  their 
protection,  but  in  1402  they  were  unable  to  save  it  from  the  ravages  com- 
mitted by  Timur  (p.  485),  nor  could  they  in  1424  prevent  its  capture  by 
the  Osmans.  This  'eye  of  Asia  Minor',  as  the  Turks  have  called  Smyrna, 
has  risen  to  wonderful  prosperity  of  late  years. 

The  quays  were  built  in  1868-80  and  at  the  same  time  the  Hau- 
bour,  of  50  acres  only,  was  protected  by  a  breakwater  1400  yds. 
long  and  19  yds.  in  breadth.  The  entrance  is  between  the  N.E.  end 
of  this  breakwater  and  the  N.  pier  (PI.  B,  3,  4)  near  the  passport- 
office,  passengers'   custom-house,  and   telegraph   office.    The  local 


532     Route  80.  SMYRNA.  From  Athens 

steamers  (p.  531)  are  berthed  between  the  N.  and  the  S.  mole  (FJ. 

A,  4,-5;  chief  custom-house). 

The  great  business  thoroughfare  is  the  Quay  Street  (Greek 
Prokymaea,  Ital.  Marina),  over  2 M.  long,  skirting  the  Frank  quar- 
ter (see  below).  In  the  S.  part  of  this  street,  among  the  motley 
throng  of  sailors,  dock-labourers,  and  traders  of  every  nation,  are 
often  seen  picturesque  trains  of  camels,  headed  in  some  cases  by  a 
donkey.  The  N.  part  of  the  quay,  with  its  theatres,  cafes,  and  many 
handsome  dwelling-houses,  is  of  an  entirely  different  character. 

From  the  quay  several  alleys,  the  Knemer  Passage,  the  Hoe- 
nischer  Passage  (PI.  B,  3,4),  and  others,  and  the  busy  street  Galatzo 
Sokak  (PI.  B,  C,  3)  lead  to  the  Frank  Quarter.  The  main  streets 
here,  rnnning  parallel  with  the  quay,  are  the  so-called  Parallel 
St.,  the  Quai  Anglais  (Turk.  Eski  Balik  Basar;  PI.  B,  C,  3,  4), 
the  Maltese  quarter,  and  above  all  the  Franks'  Street,  in  sections 
bearing  different  names  (Hue  des  Verreries,  Rue  Franqne,  Rue 
Trassa,  etc.),  and  lined  with  many  European  and  other  shops. 

To  the  E.  of  Rue  Franque,  passing  the  Rom.  Cath.  cathedral  of 
St.  Jean  (PI.  C,  4),  we  come  to  the  Greek  Quarter,  to  which  the 
lively  streets  Bella  Vista  (PI.  D,  2)  and  Oroman  Sokak  (PI.  D,  2,  3) 
also  lead.  The  Greek  Catb.  cathedral  of  Hagia  Photine  or  Ai 
Fotini  (PI.  B,  4)  lies  near  the  S.W.  end  of  the  Franks'  Street. 

A  little  beyond  AY  Fotini  the  street  ends  at  the  *Bazaar  (PI. 

B,  5;  open  till  sunset),  which  vies  in  its  picturesque  variety  with 
the  Great  Bazaar  of  Constantinople.  Smyrna  carpets,  mostly  from 
the  interior,  old  embroidery,  and  modern  silks  may  be  bought  here 
at  reasonable  prices.  The  so-called  antiquities,  however,  are  gener- 
ally spurious.  The  bazaar  is  within  the  Turkish  Quarter,  on  the 
site  of  ancient  Smyrna,  with  its  quiet  streets  ascending  the  Pagos 
(see  below),  and  extending  to  the  S.W.  to  the  Moslem  and  the  old 
Jewish  Cemeteries.  Near  these,  but  difficult  to  find,  are  traces  of 
the  temples  of  Asklepios  and  Vesta  (PI.  A,  7).  Within  the  Turkish 
quarter  lies  the  very  unsavoury  Jewish  Quarter  (PI.  B,  C,  5,  6). 

From  the  church  of  Ai  Fotini  we  may  walk  through  the  Armen- 
ian Quarter,  past  the  Armenian  cathedral  of  St.  Etienne  (PI.  C, 5) 
and  the  Basma  Khane"  Station  (PI.  D,  5),  to  the  Caravan  Bridge 
(PI.  E,  5),  which  the  busy  traffic  with  the  interior  crosses. 

From  the  Moslem  cemeteries  (PI.  A,  B,  7)  mentioned  above,  or 
from  the  Caravan  Bridge,  we  ascend  in  1/2  hr.  to  the  top  of  the 
*Pagos  (525  ft.),  which  affords  a  superb  view  of  the  city,  the  bay, 
and  the  hills  around.  The  extensive  outer  wall  of  the  old  Castle, 
dating  from  the  Byzantine  and  Genoese  periods,  consists  partly  of 
the  substructures  and  masonry  of  the  Acropolis  of  king  Lysima- 
chos  (p.  531).  Of  the  Roman  Theatre  (PI.  C,D,  6,  7)  and  the  Sia- 
dion  (PI.  B,  C,  7;  p.  509)  on  the  hill-side  hardly  a  trace  is  left. 

♦Excursiohs.    To  GPz  Tepeh  (p.  530)  by  tramway  or  by  local  steamer 


tn  Constantinople.  MTTILINI.  90.  Route.     583 

(p.  531).  —  By  local  steamer  or  by  railway  (from  the  Basma  Khane  Stat., 
see  p.  532)  to  Kordelio  (cafus;  sea-baths),  a  little  town  prettily  situated 
among  gardens  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  bay.  From  the  steamer,  to  the 
E.  of  the  Punta  (p.  531),  we  see  the  Bay  of  Burnabad  and  the  plain  of 
that  name,  beyond  which,  on  the  Yamanlar  Dagh  (3202  ft.),  is  the  site 
of  Ancient  Smyrna  (p.  531). 


Leaving  Smyrna  the  Steamer  passes  the  Kara  Burun  (p.  530) 
and  usually  steers  to  the  W.N.W.  ont  to  sea.  Astern  we  obtain  a 
line  view  of  Chios.  "We  soon  skirt  the  beautiful  S.  coast  of  Mytilini 
or  Mitylene  (3084  ft.;  ancient  Lesbos;  673  sq.  M.),  the  largest 
island  in  the  iEgean  Sea,  and  pass  the  narrow  entrance  of  the 
far-penetrating  Bay  of  Kalloni.  Beyond  Cape  Sigri  (Sigrium 
Promontorium)  and  the  islet  of  Megalonisi  (lighthouse)  we  sight 
the  distant  coast  of  Troas  (see  below). 

Some  of  the  vessels,  beyond  Arslan  Burun  (p.  530),  steer  to  the 
N.,  close  to  the  Anatolian  coast,  and  past  the  finely  varied  scenery 
of  the  Bay  of  Chandarli,  the  ancient  Sinus  Elaeates.  On  the 
N.  bank  of  that  bay,  to  the  W.  of  the  estuary  of  the  Bakyr  Chat 
(once  Ka'ikos),  rises  the  Kara  Dagh  (2559  ft.;  Cane  Mons). 

Beyond  Cape  Maltepe,  a  spur  of  Kara  Dagh,  and  the  Hagios 
Georgios  Islands  opens  the  Strait  of  Mytilini,  9  M.  wide,  lying 
between  the  island  and  the  coast  of  ancient  Mysia.  On  the  right, 
far  inland  from  Kabakum  Bay,  we  sight  the  hills  near  Bergama, 
the  famous  Pergamum  of  the  Greeks.  On  the  hill-side  to  the  left, 
beyoud  Cape  Malca,  the  S.E.  point  of  the  island,  lies  Mytilini  or 
Kasiro  (Turk.  Midullii),  its  capital,  with  a  Genoese  castle. 

At  the  N.  end  of  the  strait,  beyond  the  entrance  to  the  harbour 
of  Aivaly  (Gr.  Kydonia),  and  the  Moshonisia  Islands  (Hekato- 
nesoi),  opens  to  the  N.E.  the  broad  Baxj  of  Edremid  (Adramyti), 
on  which  rises  Kaz  Dagh  (5807  ft.),  the  ancient  Ida.  We  next 
steer  to  the  W.  through  the  Muselim  Sound,  between  the  N.  coast 
of  Mytilini  and  the  S.  coast  of  Troas  or  the  Troad,  where  once 
rose  the  loftily  situated  stronghold  of  Assos. 

After  passing  cape  Baba  Burnu  (Ledum  Promontorium), 
the  S.W.  point  of  Troas,  we  follow  the  course  of  the  direct  steamers 
from  Smyrna,  past  Cape  Eski  Stambul  ('Old  Stambul'),  the  site 
of  Alexandreia  Troas,  a  town  of  the  Diadochi,  and  through  the 
Strait  of  T'enedos  (3  M.  broad).  The  island  of  Tenedos,  famed  in 
the  Trojan  wars,  now  abounding  in  windmills,  rises  in  a  trachytic 
double  peak  to  a  height  of  627  ft. 

At  the  N.  end  of  the  strait  lies  the  islet  of  Gaidaronisi  (light- 
house). Far  away  to  the  W.,  in  clear  weather,  we  descry  the  island 
of  Limnos  (ancient  Lernnos);  to  the  N.W  ,  beyond  Imbros,  towers 
the  mountain-mass  of  Samothrake  (5250  ft.). 

Beyond  Besika  Bay,  in  front  of  which  lie  the  volcanic  islands 
of  Tavshan  Adalar  ('rabbit-islands';  once  Kalydnae  or  Lagussae), 


534     R°>'te  SO.  DARDANELLES.  From  Athens 

we  pass  the  hills  bordering  the  W.  side  of  the  plain  of  Troy,  the 
legendary  scene  of  the  Homeric  battles.  Between  Hagios  Dimilrios 
Tepeh  (hill  of  St.  Demetrius)  and  the  Greek  village  of  Yenishehr 
is  the  site  of  Sigeum  or  Sigcion.  Near  it  the  tnnmli  of  'Achilles 
and  Patroklos'  were  the  burial-places  of  that  Athenian  colony. 

We  now  near  the  strongly  fortified  Dardanelles  (p.  xxxiv),  the 
ancient  Hellespont,  now  named  after  the  ancient  town  of  Dardanos 
(see  below).  The  straits  connect  the  iEgean  Sea  with  the  Sea  of 
Marmora,  a  distance  of  37^2  M.,  and  average  3/.c43/4  M.  in  breadth, 
and  160-295  ft.  in  depth.  They  intersect  a  tableland,  820-925  ft. 
in  height,  of  tertiary  formation  (yellow  marl  and  marl-limestone 
of  the  upper  miocene).  The  surface  current  (p.  557),  sometimes 
setting  as  in  the  Bosporus  at  the  rate  of  5  M.  an  hour,  causes  serious 
difficulty  to  sailing-vessels,  especially  if  wind  and  tide  are  both 
against  them. 

At  the  S.W.  entrance  to  the  Dardanelles,  scarcely  2'/2  M.  broad, 
lies  a  village  on  the  Asiatic  side  with  the  ruined  fortress  of  Kum 
Kaleh  (light);  opposite,  on  the  Peninsula  of  Gallipoli,  the  ancient 
Thracian  Chersonesus,  is  the  fort  of  Sidd  el-Bahr  Kalesi. 

Beyond  Knm  Kaleh  we  sight  to  the  S.,  rising  above  the  marshy 
plain  of  the  Mendere  Chai  (Skamander),  the  low  hill  which  was 
once  the  site  of  Troy  (near  Hissarlik),  with  the  debris  of  the  ex- 
cavations. On  the  shore,  to  the  W.  of  the  mouth  of  the  stream,  lay 
the  landing-place  of  the  Greeks. 

Passing  the  site  of  Dardanos  (on  the  right)  we  soon  reach  the 
narrowest  part  of  the  straits  (about  1475  yds.),  commanded  by  the 
Dardanelles  Castles  built  by  Mohammed  II.  in  1470,  with  their 
new  earthworks.  On  the  European  side  is  the  picturesque  Kilid 
Bahr  ('key  of  the  sea');  on  the  Asiatic  side  is  Kaleh  Sultanieh 
or  Boghaz  Hissar,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Koja  Chai  (Rhodios). 
Under  the  protection  of  the  latter  lies  the  town  of  Chanak  Kalesi 
('castle  of  pots'),  usually  called  Dardanelles  (pop.  16,700).  While 
the  steamer  stops  for  way-leave  the  potters  of  the  place  offer  their 
curiously  shaped  and  painted  vases  for  sale. 

At  the  second-narrowest  part  of  the  straits  (1585  yds.),  where 
they  bend  to  the  N.E.,  once  lay  the  towns  of  Sestos  (left)  and  Aby- 
dos  (right),  now  fort  Nagara  Kalesi  (quarantine  station;  light- 
house). This  was  the  traditional  scene  of  the  romance  of  Hero  and 
Leander;  it  was  here  that  Lord  Byron  swam  across  in  1810. 
Xerxes  crossed  the  straits  here  in  480  B.  C,  Alexander  the  Great 
in  334  B.  C,  and  the  Turks  in  1357.  —  On  the  coast,  to  the  left,  is 
the  small  plain  of  JEgospotamoi  (now  Karakvva  Dereh),  off  which 
the  Spartans  won  a  decisive  victory  over  the  Athenians  in  405. 

Near  the  N.E.  end  of  the  Dardanelles,  on  the  right,  lies  the  vil- 
lage of  Lampsaki  ( Lampsakos)  amid  olive-groves  and  vineyards. 
To  the  left,  on  the  steep  projecting  coast,  is  superbly  situated  the 


to  Constantinople.       PRINCES  ISLANDS.  SCBoute.     535 

decayed  town  of  Gallipoli  (KaUi])olis,  'beautiful  town'),  the  first 
European  town  captured  in  1357  by  Suleiman,  son  of  Orkhan  (p.  542). 

The  Dardanelles  expand  into  the  Sea  of  Marmora  (p.  xxxiv), 
the  ancient  Propontis,  a  basin  of  comparatively  recent  origin  (ex- 
treme depth  4450  ft.),  which  like  the  J^gean  Sea  has  been  formed 
by  the  subsidence  of  large  portions  of  the  earth's  surface.  On  the 
Asiatic  side,  beyond  Kara  Burun  (381  ft.),  lies  the  Bay  ofArtaki, 
on  the  N.  margin  of  the  ancient  Troas.  Adjoining  the  bay  is  the 
plain  of  the  Blga  Sher  Chai,  the  ancient  Granikos,  where  in  334 
Alexander  the  Great  won  his  first  victory  over  the  Persians. 

On  the  coast  of  ancient  Phrygia  rises  the  peninsula  of  Kapu 
Dagh  (2625  ft.;  once  Arktonnesos  island),  flanked  by  the  Pasha 
Li  man  islands  and  Marmora  or  Marmara  (2326  ft.),  where  white 
marble  for  Constantinople  has  been  quarried  since  ancient  times. 

On  the  N.  coast  soon  appear  the  villages  of  Sharkidi  (once 
Peristasis)  and  Hiraklitsa  (Heraklea);  then  the  town  of  Rodosto 
(Turk.  Tekirdagh),  and  farther  on,  Eregli,  the  ancient  Perinthos. 

To  the  S.  we  sight  the  islet  of  Kalolimni  (689  ft.;  Besbikos) ; 
far  beyond  it  arc  the  Gulf  of  Mudania  (or  Gemlek)  and  the  town 
of  Brussa,  at  the  foot  of  the  Bithynian  Olympos  (8200  ft.),  which 
is  generally  capped  with  snow- 

Off  the  beautiful  Gulf  of  Ismid  (Nikoincdeia  ),  to  the  N.E.,  lie 
the  Princes  Islands  (lies  des  Princes;  comp.  Map,  p.  557),  the 
ancient  Demonnesoi  (Turk.  Kizil  Adalar,  'red  islands',  so  called 
from  the  colour  of  their  ferruginous  rocks). 

Prinkipo,  the  ancient  Pityusa  ('rich  in  piDes'),  the  largest  and 
most  populous  of  these  islands,  attracts  many  excursionists  from  Con- 
stantinople in  tine  weather  (local  steamers,  see  p.  538).  On  the  N.  side 
of  the  island  lies  its  capital,  Prinkipo  (Hot.  Giacomo,  dej.  5,  D.  6  fr. ;  Hot. 
Imperial,  and  others).  Pleasant  drive  thence  (2'/2hrs.  there  and  back: 
1-2  mejidiehs;  or  ride,  I/2-l  raej.)  to  the  highest  hill  on  the  S.  side  or 
the  island,  crowned  with  the  old  dlonastery  of  St.  George  (656  ft.;  *View). 

On  its  way  from  Constantinople  to  Prinkipo  the  steamer  first  touches 
at  Proti  (377  ft.).  To  the  right  we  see  the  small  island  of  Oxia,  the 
most  westerly  of  the  group,  to  which  in  1910  the  famous  street-dogs  of 
Constantinople  were  transported,  and  I'lati  ('the  flat'),  also  called  'Bulwer's 
Island'  after  an  English  Ambassador  who  here  built  two  now  ruined 
castles  (19th  cent.)  in  the  style  of  Windsor.  The  steamer  calls  also  at 
Antigoni  (512  ft.),  and  Vhalki  (446  ft.;  'ore-island'),  with  a  Greek  com- 
mercial school  and  a  seminary  for  priests. 

On  the  flat  European  shore,  beyond  the  village  of  Kiichiik 
Chckmekjeh  on  the  lagoon  of  that  name,  we  sight  the  Russian  war- 
monument  with  its  gleaming  tower,  a  landmark  of  Constantinople, 
rising  above  the  cape  of  San  Stefano  (lighthouse).  A  little  later 
appears  Stambul.  Next,  beyond  the  lighthouse  (Phare),  is  seen  the 
white  mosque  of  Ahmed  and  the  yellow  Aya  Sophia. 

On  the  Asiatic  coast,  on  the  promontory  which  runs  out  into  the 
beautiful  Bay  of  Moda,  there  is  situated,  in  the  ancient  Bithynia, 
Fa nar  Burnu  or  Fener  Bagcheh  (lighthouse).     Beyond   it   is 


536     Route  81.  CONSTANTINOPLE.  Practical 

Kadikidi  (Kadi  Keu'i),  a  modern  suburb  of  Constantinople,  on  the 
site  of  Kalchedon  or  Chalcedon.  Farther  on  are  the  little  harbour 
of  Haidar  Pasha  (p.  557),  the  station  of  the  Anatolian  railway, 
and,  at  the  S.  end  of  Scutari  (p.  556),  the  military  school  of 
medicine,  the  large  Selimieh  Barracks,  and  the  Selimieh  Mosque. 

The  steamer  now  rounds  the  Seraglio  Point  and  enters  the 
Bosporus  (p.  557) ;  it  passes  the  Golden  Horn,  the  harbour  of 
Constantinople,  and  the  New  Bridge,  and  casts  anchor  at  the 
Galata  Quay  below  Pera.    Landing,  see  below. 

The  Direct  Steamers  from  Athens  to  Constantinople  steer  from  the 
Straits  of  Doro  (p.  529)  to  the  N.N.E.  for  Tenedos  (p.  533).  In  clear 
weather  we  descry  to  the  right  the  distant  Chios  (p.  492)  and  Psara  (p.  529), 
and  to  the  left  Skyros  (2608  ft.),  the  S.E.  island  of  the  N.  Sporades.  On 
the  right  we  next  sight  Mytilini  (p.  533),  and  on  the  left  Hagiostrati 
(971  ft.;  Halonnesos).    From  Tenedos  to  Constantinople,  see  p.  533. 

81.  Constantinople,  f 

Arrival  bv  Sea.  The  French,  German,  and  Rumanian  (RR.  76,  82) 
steamers  are  berthed  at  the  Galata  Quay  (PL  H,  I,  4),  near  the  Dogana 
or  Douane.  Passengers  of  the  French  and  German  steamers  have  to  pay 
pier-dues  (1st  class  5Va,  2nd  cl.  3'/4  s.  pias).  The  Austrian,  Italian,  and 
Egyptian  steamers  also,  on  their  arrival  from  the  Black  Sea,  are  mostly 

f  In  the  following  description  the  transcripts  o  and  ti  have  approx- 
imately the  German  value,  or  the  French  of  eu  and  u  respectively. 

Money.  The  Turkish  Pound  (lira),  worth  about  23  fr.  or  18s. 
5cZ.,  is  divided  into  100  piastres.  There  are  gold  coins  of  >/4,  >/2>  1,  2'/a, 
and  5  pounds.  The  commonest  coins  are  Silver  Piastres  (s.  pias.;  coins 
of  5,  10,  and  20  s.  pias.),  but  at  the  government,  railway,  and  steamboat 
offices,  in  the  tobacco-shops,  and  on  the  tramways  they  suffer  a  slight 
loss  (5  8.  pias.  =  43/4,  10  s.  pias.  =  9'/a,  20  s.  pias.  =  19  piastres  in  gold).  The 
piastre  (worth  2lll0d.)  is  called  Gurush  in  Turkish  (grosi  in  Greek),  tho 
five-piastre  piece  is  a  Cheirek  (or  simply  'franc'),  the  twenty-piastre 
piece  (about  As.  6<Z.)  is  a  Mejidieh.  A  piastre  is  divided  into  40  parts  called 
Paras;  the  commonest  para-coins  are  the  thinly  silvered  bronze  Metalliks 
of  10  paras  (about  ll:id.);  there  are  others  of  5,  20,  50,  and  100  paras.  New 
nickel  coins  of  1  pias.,  20,  10,  and  5  paras  will  in  1912  be  brought  into 
circulation. 

A  French  or  Greek  silver  franc  passes  in  ordinary  traffic  for  4'/a  8- 
pias.,  and  the  Napoleon  (the  most  popular  of  foreign  coins)  for  95  s.  pias. 
(but  the  money-changers  usually  give  93  s.  pias.  only).  The  average  ex- 
change for  an  English  sovereign  is  120  s.  pias. ;  for  bank  and  circular 
notes  the  exchange  is  rather  higher.  French  banknotes  can  be  exchanged 
only  at  the  banks.  Small  change,  of  which  there  is  always  a  scarcity, 
is  obtained  at  the  banks  (p.  539)  or  at  the  money-changers,  the  current 
rate  of  exchange  being  ascertained  beforehand.  Worn-out  coins  may  be 
exchanged  at  the  Banque  Ottomane. 

Accounts  are  still  kept  in  the  provinces  in  'bad  (chiirUk)  piastres';  of 
these  there  are  silver  coins  worth  Vj4,  2Va,  and  5  pias.,  and  copper  coins  of 
l'/4  and  2'/a  pias.  —  The  Turkish  pound  contains  178  bad  piastres,  the 
mejidieh  33,  and  the  silver  piastre  l2/3.  A  pound  sterling  is  therefore 
worth  about  209  bad  piastres,  a  shilling  about  lO'/a,  and  a  franc  81/3. 

Turkish.  Numbers:  1,  bir;  2,  iki;  3,  iitsh;  4,  dort;  5,  besh;  6, 
alti;  7,  yedi;  8,  sekiz;  9,  dokuz;  10,  on;  11,  on  bir;  20,  yirmi;  25,  yirmi 
besh;  30,  otuz;  40,  kirk;  50,  eli;  100,  yiiz;  1000,  bin.  'Katsh  para',  how 
many  paras?  'Besh  gurush',  five  piastres. 


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81.  Ho'de.      532 


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*<*".  CONSTANTINOPLE.  si.  Route.     537 

moored  at  the  quay,  but  when  coming  from  the  S.  they  usually  anchor 
in  front  of  it,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Golden  Horn  (landing  or  embarkation, 
with  baggage,  2  fr.  or  10  pias.).  The  porters  (haiuals,  mostly  Kurds)  of 
the  Harbour  Co.  receive  5  pias.  and  a  gratuity  of  1  pias.  for  conveying 
baggage  from  the  quay  to  the  hotels.  All  trouble  with  boatmen  and  porters 
is  avoided  by  applying  at  once  to  the  guides  (dragomans)  or  hotel-agents. 

Baggage  and  passports  (p.  xvii)  are  examined  in  the  'Salon'  or  Bureau 
des  Passeports.  The  importation  of  weapons  and  ammunition  and  of 
tobacco  and  cigarettes  is  prohibited.  Cigars,  however,  if  declared,  are 
admitted  at  an  ad  valorem  duty  of  75  per  cent.  On  showing  their  passports 
:  isaengera  must  state  where  they  intend  to  reside;  the  passports  are 
then  stamped  and  returned  to  them.  On  leaving  the  country  passports 
are  again  examined  (risers  by  consul,  p.  539);  so  also  is  luggage,  to  pre- 
vent exportation  of  antiquities. 

On  leaving  the  Salon  each  passenger  has  to  pay  the  Harbour  Co. 
5  pias.  in  gold,  also  1  pias.  for  each  trunk  and  '/g  pias.  for  each  piece  of 
hand-luggage. 

The  Station  (Pl.H,  5;  Buffet,  on  the  side  for  departure;  Rail.  Restau- 
rant opposite)  of  the  Oriental  Railway  is  at  Stambul,  7  min.  to  the  S.E.  of 
the  New  Bridge  (p.  545). — The  clock,  which  gives  E.  European  time,  is 
an  hour  in  advance  of  mid-European  time.  As  the  officials  understand 
French,  the  services  of  the  hotel-agents  may  be  dispensed  with.  —  Small 
articles  of  luggage  are  examined  at  the  frontier-station  Mustapha  Pasha, 
registered  luggage  in  the  hall  of  arrival,  and  passports  at  the  exit. — 
POrU  r  to  hotel  11  pias.  —  Cab  from  station  to  hotel  20-25  pias.,  incl.  bridge- 
toll  of  2'/i  pias.  (from  quay  to  hotel  10  pias.;  tariff,  see  p.  538). 

Hotels  (all  at  Pera;  charges  should  be  agreed  upon  beforehand).  Peea 
Palace  Hotel  (PI.  a;  H,  3),  near  the  public  gardens  of  the  Petits  Champs 
(p.  511),  R.  10  fr.  10  c.-20fr.,  B.  2  fr.  10,  dej.  5  fr.  25,  D.  6  fr.  30,  pens. 
20  fr.  60-30  fr.  60  c.  (charges  3-4  fr.  lower  from  15th  June  to  1st  Sept.); 
H0t.  Tokatlian,  Grande  Rue  de  PdralSO,  recently  rebuilt,  with  restaurant 
and  cafe"  (see  below),  R.  from  6'/2>  B.  l«/8,  dej.  4'/2,  D.  5'/a,  pens,  from 
15  fr.,  well  spoken  of.  —  Hot.  Bristol,  opposite  the  Petits  Champs  (PI.  H,  2), 
R.  from  5,  B.  l'/ji  dej.  4,  D.  5,  pens,  from  14  fr.  (with  dependance  Gr.-Hot. 
Missiri,  Grande  Rue  de  Pera  128,  plain);  Hot.  de  Londres  (PI.  b;  H,  2), 
also  opposite  Petits  Champs,  R.  from  5,  B.  l'/ji  dej.  4,  D.  5,  pens,  from 
12'/-j  fr. ;  Hot.  Berliner  Hof  (Royal  &  d'Angleterre;  PI.  c,  H2),  near  the 
garden  of  the  British  Embassy,  R.  from  6,  B.  l*/a ,  dej.  4,  D.  5,  pens.  15 
(out  of  season,  12)  fr. ;  Hot.  Continental,  opposite  the  Petits  Champs  (PI. 
H,  3),  R.  4-10,  B.  l'/3,  dej.  4.  D.  5,  pens.  12-20  fr. ;  HOT.  Krcecker  (PI.  e; 
H,  3),  Rue  Kabristan  36-40, 'with  garden,  R.  4-10,  B.  1,  dej.  gi/s,  D.  3>/a, 
pens.  9-16  fr. 

Second  Class:  Khedivial  Palace  Hotel  (PI.  f ;  H,  8),  Grande  Rue  de 
Pdra,  R.  4-6,  pens.  10-12  fr.;  Hot.  Grande  Bretaone,  Rue  Venedik,  R.  2-5, 
B.  1,  d6j.  2'/«i  D.  8,  pens.  6-10  fr.;  Hot.  St.  Petersbourg,  opposite  the 
Petits  Champs  (PI.  H,  2),  rooms  only  (from  2  fr.);  Constantinople  Palace 
Hotel,  Grande  Rue  de  Pdra  (PI.  H,  2),  R.  3-5,  B.  l-l'/2,  dej.  3,  D.  3'/.,,  pens. 
7-12  f r. ;  H6t.  Paulick,  same  street,  adjoining  the  Russian  Embassy  (PI 
H,  3),  R.  21/4-6,  unpretending;    Hot.  Rubin,  R.  from  2  fr. 

Restaurants  (European  cuisine;  a  la  carte).  At  Pera.  *Tokatlian, 
at  the  hotel  of  that  name  (see  above);  Janni  (BrasserieViennoi.se),  Grande 
Rue  de  PeVa  396;  Nicoli  (Brass.  Suisse),  same  street.  No.  380;  Restaurant 
Lebon,  same  street,  No.  434;  Restaurant  Anzilre,  near  the  Baluk  Bazaar 
(p.  515),  D.  15  pias.,  well  spoken  of;  restaurants  in  summer  in  the  gardens 
of  the  Petits  Champs,  in  winter  in  the  winter-theatre  (concerts).  —  At 
Galata.  Restaurant  'D.D.',  dinner  only,  well  spoken  of.  —  At  Stambul. 
Railway  Restaurant  (see  above),  with  garden,  well  spoken  of;  Tokatlian, 
in  the  Great  Bazaar. 

Cafes.  Tokatlian  and  Lebon,  see  above;  also  in  the  Public  Grounds 
at  Pera,  in  the  Taxim  Park  (PI.  I,  1),  and  others  in  the  Grande  Rue  de 
P6ra.  —  There  are  Turkish  Cafis,  well  shaded,   opposite  the  Aya  Sophia 


538     Route  81.  CONSTANTINOPLE.  Practical 

and  in  the  small  public  garden  there  (PI.  H,  7);  also  at  the  piers  of  the 
local  steamers,  etc. ;  small  cup  of  coffee  20  paras.  Those  at  Galata  should 
be  avoided.  —  Confectioners.  Tokatlian,  Lebon,  see  p.  537;  Midassier, 
Grande  Rue  de  Pera,  cor.  of  Rue  de  Pologne. 

Cabs  (araba).  It  is  best  to  fix  the  fare  beforehand  according  to  the 
tariff.  Drive  of  '/4  hr.  5,  of  25  min.  7l/a>  and  of  40  min.  10  pias.;  1  hr.  15, 
each  addit.  hr.  10  pias.;  two  hours  after  sunset  charges  are  raised  by  one- 
quarter  and  from  midnight  till  sunrise  by  one-third ;  for  the  whole  day 
80  pias.  —  Horses  (at,  begir)  at  Top  Haneh,  near  the  Yedikuleh  station, 
etc.;  5-10  pias.  per  hour,  according  to  bargain  (and  small  gratuity  to 
horse-boy). 

Tramways  (comp.  Plan;  electric  lines  under  construction).  Most  of 
the  cars  have  two  classes  and  a  compartment  for  Turkish  women.  Fare  30-60 
or  40-80  paras  according  to  class  (printed  on  the  tickets  in  French).  The 
passenger  states  his  destination  or  names  the  station  nearest  to  it. — 
I.  Galata  (at  lower  end  of  Yiiksek  Kaldirim,  PI.  H,  4)  to  Galata  Serai 
(PI.  H,  2 ;  40  or  60  paras),  Taxim  (PI.  I,  2),  and  Shishli  (to  the  N.  of 
PI.  I,  1).  — 2.  Asab  Eapu  (PI.  G,  3;  at  the  Old  Bridge)  to  Galata  (PI.  H,  4), 
Top  Haneh  (PI.  I,  3),  Kabatash  (PI.  K,  2),  Dolma  Bagcheh,  Beshiktash, 
and  Ortakibi  (p.  558).  —  3.  Emin  6nu  (PI.  H,  5;  at  S.  end  of  New  Bridge) 
to  Sirkeji  (rail,  stat.),  So-uk  Cheshmeh,  Kapu  (Museum),  Aya  Sophia 
(PI.  H,  7),  Chcmberli  Tash  (Colonne  Brulce;  PI.  G,  6),  Sultan  Bayazid 
(PI.  G,  6),  Ak  Serai  (PI.  D,  B,  6;  change  cars),  and  Top  Kapu  (PI.  B,  4). 
—  4.  Ak  Serai  (PI.  D,  E,  6)  to  Yedikuleh  (PI.  A,  9). 

Tunnel  Railway,  the  chief  means  of  communication  between  the 
New  Bridge  and  Pera;  lower  station  (PI.  H,  4)  at  Galata,  Rue  Yeni  Djami; 
upper  station  (PI.  H,  3),  in  the  Place  du  Tunnel  at  Pera.  Cars  every 
5  min.;  30  or  20  paras;  book  of  10  tickets,  2nd  cl.,  5  pias. 

Local  Steamers  (comp.  inset  maps  on  the  Plan;  time-tables  in  the 
newspapers;  ply  till  sunset),  a.  On  the  Goi,den  Horn,  to  Eyiib,  from 
the  pier  (PI.  H,  4)  to  the  W.  of  the  N.  end  of  the  New  Bridge,  about 
every  V4  hr.  till  sunset;  tickets  (to  Eyiib  30  paras;  20  paras  more  for 
cushioned  seat)  on  the  pier.  Mid-stations,  see  p.  555.  In  spring  and 
summer  smaller  steamers  ply  between  Eyiib  and  Kiathanch  (Sweet  Waters, 
p.  556;  40  paras).  —  b.  On  the  Bosporus,  from  the  pier  (PI.  H,  5)  at  the 
S.  end  of  the  New  Bridge,  to  the  E.,  where  tickets  are  obtained  (to 
Biiyiikdereh  in  l'/a  hr. ;  fare  1G0  or  100  paras,  plus  a  tax  of  10  paras). 
There  are  three  lines:  European  coast,  Asiatic  coast,  and  Zigzag,  recog- 
nizable by  green,  or  red,  or  red  and  green  flags.  — c.  To  Scutari,  from 
the  third  pier  to  the  left  (E.;  PI.  H,  4),  coming  from  the  N.  end  of  the  New 
Bridge,  about  every  l/2hi.;  fare  50  or  30  paras;  to  Prinkipo  (p.  535),  from 
the  first  pier  to  the  left,  five  or  six  times  daily  in  summer,  in  2  hrs.; 
fare  160  or  100  paras.  —  d.  On  the  Sea  of  Marmora  (no  piers),  from  the 
Stambul  Quay  (PI.  H,  5)  via  Kum  Kapu  (PI.  G,  7),  Yeni  Kapu  (PI.  E,  8), 
and  Psamatia  Kapu  (PI.  B,  8)  to  the  suburbs  of  Makrikioi  and  San  Ste- 
fano  (p.  535). 

Boats  (no  tariff;  bargain  necessary).  To  or  from  steamers,  see  p.  537; 
otherwise  10  pias.  per  hour.  Ferry,  by  one  of  the  long  flat-bottomed  Caiques, 
with  one  rower,  to  Stambul  1-2  pias.,  to  Eyiib  or  Scutari,  about  10  pias., 
with  two  rowers  15  pias.;  per  hour  15  pias. 

Post  Offices.  British  (PI.  H,  4) ;  Turkish  International,  Rue  Voi'vode 
in  Galata  (PL  H,  4),  Grande  Rue  de  Pera,  opposite  the  Galata  Serai,  near 
the  Yeni  Valideh  Jami  (PI.  H,  5)  in  Stambul,  and  at  the  railway-station. 
France,  Germany,  Austria-Hungary,  and  Russia  also  have  their  own  post- 
offices.  French  is  generally  understood.  Postage  within  Turkey  1/2-2  pias. 
for  10  grammes,  pest-card  20  paras ;  foreign  letters  1  pias.  per  20  grammes. 

Telegraph.  Offices.  The  Turkish  International  Post  Offices  (see 
above)  send  telegrams  to  foreign  countries  as  well  as  within  Turkey. 
Eastern  Telegraph  Co.,  at  the  Turkish  post-office,  Grande  Rue  de  Pera  (see 
above),  for  foreign  parts  (to  Great  Britain  each  word  66  c.). 

Steamboat  Agents  (offices  mostly  behind  the  custom-house  at  Ga- 
lata; comp.  PI.  H,  4).  Messageries  Maritimes,  Mumhaneh  Street;  N.  Paquet 


tiotea.  CONSTANTINOPLE.  81.  Route.     539 

A  Co.,  T.  Keboul ;  Societd  Nazionale,  Barboro,  CitdFrancaise :  North  German 
Lloyd,  Mewcs,  Muiiihaneh  Street,  Charab  Iskelessi  7-9;  German  Levant 
Line,  Mehemed  Ali  Pasha-IIan ;  Austrian  Lloyd,  Mumbaneh  Street;  Khe- 
divial  Mail,  Silley,  Qalata  Quay,  Meimanetli  Han;  Russian  Steam  Navi- 
gation &  Trading  Co.,  PetehenelY,  Kiretsh  Kapu;  Rumanian  State  Mari- 
time Service,  Galata  Quay.  — Tourist  Agents,  Thos.  Cook  &  Son,  Rue 
Kabristan  12,  opposite  Pera  Palace  Hotel. 

Guides.  The  International  Couriers  and  Guides  Office,  near  the 
Pera  Palace  Hotel  (p  537),  provides  reliable  guides  (10  fr.  per  day  for 
Constantinople  and  its  environs,  including  the  Bosporus). 

Embassies  and  Consulates.  Great  Britain  :  Ambassador,  Right 
Hon.  Sir  G.  A.  Loicther  (office,  PI.  H,  2;  in  summer  at  Therapia).  Con- 
sul General,  H.  Eyres  (office,  PI.  H,  4);  consul,  A.  T.  Waugh;  vice-consul, 
W.  S.  Edmonds.  —  United  States:  Ambassador,  0.  S.  Straus  (office, 
PI.  I,  2).    Consul-General,  vacat;  vice-consul,  0.  S.  Reiser. 

Physicians.  English,  German,  and  others  (addresses  at  the  hotels 
or  at  the  chemists').  —  Chemists.  In  the  Grande  Rue  de  P6ra,  Ehrlich, 
No.  579;  Canzuch  &  Giunnetti,  No.  247;  3Iatkoioitsch,  No.  420;  Delia 
Sudda,  No.  298;   Liechtenstein,  Helvaji  Street,  Galata. 

Baths  at  the  hotels. — Addresses  of  Turkish  Baths  may  be  obtained 
at  the  hotels.  —  Sea  Baths  at  the  European  places  on  the  Bosporus. 

Banks.  Banque  Ottomane,  Rue  Voivode,  Galata,  and  Grande  Rue 
tli'  Pera  407,  with  exchange  offices;  Credit  Lyonnais,  near  the  New  Bridge, 
Galata;  also  German,  German  Orient,  Vienna,  and  others. — Money 
('hangers  (sarrdf)  abound  in  the  Rue  Karakeui'  (PI.  H,  4;  p.  543),  Grande 
Rue  de  Pera,  etc. 

Booksellers.  Economic  Book  Store,  Passage  du  Tunnel;  0.  Eeil, 
No.  457,  and  <S'.  H.  Weiss,  No.  481  Grande  Rue  de  Pera. — Newspapers 
i'/4  pias.).  Levant  Herald,  with  Engl,  and  Fr.  editions;  Le  Stamboid, 
Moniteur  Oriental,  French;  Osmanische  Lloyd,  German  and  French. 
All  have  steamboat  and  other  time-tables  and  notices. 

Photographs  &  Picture  Post  Cards.  All  in  Grande  Rue  de  Pera, 
FruclUerniann,  No.  335 ;  Kell,  No.  457 ;  Sebah  &  Joaillier,  No.  439 ;  Berggren, 
No.  414  (tine  views  of  the  city  and  environs).  Photographic  materials  sold 
by  Caracache  Freres,  Nos.  075  and  398,  and  Weinberg,  No.  467. 

Theatre  in  the  grounds  of  the  Petits  Champs  (PI.  H,  2).  —  A  Band 
plays  on  summer  evenings  in  the  same  grounds  and  in  the  Taxim  Park 
(PI.  I,  1);  adm.  1-2  pias. 

Churches.  Church  of  England,  at  the  chapel  of  the  British  Embassy 
(PI.  H,  2),  during  summer  at  Therapia  (see  p.  559);  Christ  Church  (IT.  H,  3), 
in  the  Rue  Yazidji;  PresbyleHan  Church,  in  the  chapel  of  the  Dutch 
Legation,  Rue  des  Postes,  near  the  Grande  Rue  (PI.  H,  3). 

Sights.    Antiquities,  Collection  of,  seo  New  Museum. 

Bazaar,  Great  (p.  551),  best  visited  early;  closed  1  hr.  before  sunset; 
Frid.,  Sat.,  aud  Sun.  are  respectively  Moslem,  Jewish,  and  Christian  holi- 
days. Inexperienced  travellers  may  bring  a  guide  or  the  dragoman  of  their 
hotel  (but  see  p.  xxvi).  Large  purchases  may  be  sent  home  by  a  goods-agent. 

Beylerbey  Serai  (p.  558),  adm.  as  in  the  case  of  the  Seraglio. 

Chinili  Kiosque  (p.  547),  see  under  New  Museum. 

Egyptian  Bazaar  (Missir  Charshi;  p.  545),  as  the  Great  Bazaar. 

Galata  Toner  (p.  543),  all  day,  5  pias.  (custodian  with  light,  2  pias.). 

Mosques  (Turk.  Jami;  very  small,  mesjid),  all  open  to  Christians  till 
sunset;  during  Ramadan,  the  Moslem  month  of  fasting,  they  are  gorgeously 
lighted  and  then  open  in  the  evening  also  (comp.  p.  549).  At  the  inner 
door  the  sacristan  provides  overshoes,  or  visitors  may  take  oif  their  own. 
Hats  also  are  removed  (comp.  p.  xxv).  There  is  no  charge  lor  admission 
but  it  is  usual  to  give  the  sacristan  a  fee  of  5  pias.  per  person  (less  for 
a  party)  for  the  loan  of  overshoes.  —  The  Tomb  Chapels  (Turk,  tiirbch) 
are  open  on  similar  conditions;  fee  1-5  pias.,  according  to  their  importance. 

Museum,  Janissaries'  (p.  550),  all  day,  8  pias.  —  Military  Museum,  in 
the  Church  of  Irene  (p.  518),  Sun.,  Tues.,  &  Thurs.  10-4. — New  Museum 

Uaedeker's  Mediterranean.  35 


540     Routes*.  CONSTANTINOPLE.  Situation. 

(p.  546),  daily  except  Frid.,  9-5,  in  winter  10-8,  adm.  5  pias. ;  tickets 
available  for  the  Chinili  Kiosque  also. 

Seraglio  Palace  (p.  5-48).  The  consulates,  to  which  application  should 
be  made  a  few  days  beforehand,  arrange  for  visits  to  the  Treasury  and 
part  of  the  old  Seraglio  on  Sun  &  Tues.  (small  fee). 

Tiirbeh,  see  under  Mosques. 

Two  Days  (when  time  is  limited).  1st.  Forenoon,  *Galata  Tower 
(p.  543),  Yeni  Valideh  Jawi  (p.  515),  *New  Museum  (p.  546),  Chinili  Kiosque 
(p.  547);  afternoon,  trip  on  the  *  Bosporus  (p.  557),  or  to  Scutari  (p.  556); 
summer  evening  in  the  Gardens  of  the  Petits  Champs  (p.  544)  or  the 
Taxim  Park  (p.  544).  —  2nd.  Forenoon,  *Aya  Sophia  (p.  548),  At  Me'iddn 
(p.  549),  *Great  Bazaar  (p.  551),  *Suleiman  Mosque  (p.  552);  afternoon, 
Land-Wall  (p.  553);  Eyiib  (pp.  555,  556);  Serasker  Tower  (p.  551). — 
Visitors  should  be  on  their  guard  against  pickpockets,  especially  in 
&alata  and  Pera. 

Constantinople,  Turk.  Stambul  or  Slamboul,  Ital.  Costanti- 
nopoli,  Slav.  Tsarigrad  (emperor's  town),  capital  of  the  Turkish 
empire  aud  residence  of  the  Sultan  (since  1909  Mohammed  V.,  b. 
1844;  successor  of  Abdul  Hamid,  p.  544),  is  the  seat  of  the  govern- 
ment (the  'Sublime  Porte'),  and  also  of  the  Sheikh  ul-Islam,  of 
the  patriarchs  of  the  Greek  and  Armenian  churches,  and  of  a  papal 
legate.  It  lies  on  the  Sea  of  Marmora,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Bosporus, 
in  41°  N.  lat.  and  28°  58'  E.  longitude. 

The  City  consists  of  several  distinct  quarters.  Stambul,  in 
the  narrower  sense,  forms  a  nearly  equilateral  triangle  between  the 
Golden  Horn  (p.  555)  and  the  Sea  of  Marmora;  to  the  N.E.,  on  the 
slopes  of  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Golden  Horn  and  on  the  adjac- 
ent shore  of  the  Bosporus,  lie  the  Frank  quarters  of  Galata  and 
Pera  and  their  suburbs;  and  to  the  E.,  on  the  gently  sloping  Asi- 
atic shore  of  the  Bosporus,  lies  the  Turkish  town  of  Scutari  with 
its  suburbs.  According  to  recent  estimates  Constantinople  con- 
tains 1,125,000  inhab.  (or,  without  the  Asiatic  quarters,  943,000), 
incl.  about  500,000  Turks,  more  than  200,000  Greeks,  180,000  Ar- 
menians, 65,000  Jews,  mostly  Spanish  (see  p.  542),  and  70,000 
Europeans.    The  foreign  residents  are  said  to  number  130,000. 

The  Situation  of  Constantinople  has  justly  won  the  admiration 
of  all  ages.  The  vast  city  ef  Stambul  curving  over  the  slopes  be- 
tween the  Sea  of  Marmora  and  the  Golden  Horn,  the  suburbs  on 
the  Bosporus,  its  green  banks  studded  with  villages,  palaces,  and 
mosques,  the  Golden  Horn  with  its  busy  bridges  and  its  countless 
vessels,  all  combine  to  form  a  picture  of  matchless  beauty. 

The  Climate  of  Constantinople,  which  lies  in  the  same  latitude 
as  Naples  (p.  137),  is  unsettled  and  comparatively  cool.  During 
the  greater  part  of  the  year  the  city  is  exposed  to  N.E.  winds  from 
the  Siberian  steppes,  which  sweep  through  the  Bosporus  and  in  winter 
occasionally  bring  snow.  The  best  season  for  a  visit  is  autumn  (end 
of  Sept.  to  beginning  of  'Nov.).  The  summer,  however,  is  usually 
fine  and  not  unbearably  hot,  the  coolest  places  being  those  on  the 
Bosporus,  a  little  to  the  N.,  which  are  sheltered  from  the  due  S. 


Hiatory.  CONSTANTINOPLE.  SI.  Route.      54 1 

winds  (as  Therapia,  Biiyuktlereh,  etc.)-  The  mean  temperature  of 
the  year  is  571/./  Fahr.,  that  of  the  hottest  month  (Aug.)  74°,  and 
that  of  the  coldest  (Feb.)  41°.    The  rainfall  averages  283/4  iu. 

History.  Attracted  by  the  striking  advantages  of  the  site,  at  the 
junction  of  two  great  portions  of  the  globe  and  on  the  great  water  highway 
between  the  Mediterranean  and  the  Black  Sea,  the  Dorians  founded  the 
colony  of  Byzantium,  about  660  B.C.,  on  the  promontory  (Seraglio  Point, 
p.  536)  commanding  the  entrance  to  the  Bosporus.  This  colony,  however, 
like  the  towns  on  the  coast  of  Asia  Minor,  was  unable  to  withstand  the 
attacks  of  the  Persians ;  when  Darius  I.  crossed  the  Bosporus  in  his  cam- 
paign against  the  Scythians  the  Byzantines  were  compelled  to  supply 
nim  with  ships;  and  their  town  was  afterwards  destroyed  by  the  Persians 
for  taking  part  in  the  Ionian  revolt.  The  long  but  somewhat  weak  al- 
liance of  Byzantium  with  Athens  was  succeeded  by  closer  bouds  when  the 
town  was  threatened  by  Philip  of  Macedonia.  Being  hard  pressed  by 
Phokion  Philip  was  compelled  to  raise  the  siege  of  the  town  (340-339). 
Under  Alexander  the  Great  and  his  successors  Byzantium  maintained  its 
autonomy,  but  in  278  it  suffered  seriously  from  an  attack  by  the  Gauls 
('Galatians')  settled  in  Thrace. 

In  the  wars  against  Philip  III.  of  Macedonia  Byzantium  became 
the  natural  ally  of  Home,  and  this  alliance  continued  to  subsist  under 
the  earlier  Roman  emperors.  In  193-6  Septimius  Severzis  besieged  the 
town  to  punish  it  for  siding  with  the  rival  emperor  Pescennius  Niger, 
and  deprived  it  of  its  liberties  and  privileges;  hut  he  afterwards  rebuilt 
the  walls,  regarding  it  as  an  important  bulwark  of  the  empire.  In  269 
Emp.  Claudius  II.  here  repelled  the  attacks  of  the  Goths  when  they  at- 
tempted to  force  their  way  south  from  the  Danube. 

Having  become  master  of  the  whole  empire  by  the  capture  of  Byzan- 
tium in  321  Emp.  Constantine  chose  it  as  his  new  capital  on  account 
of  its  admirable  situation  on  the  threshold  of  the  East.  In  330  it  was 
officially  styled  New  Rome,  but  soon  became  generally  known  as  Con- 
stantinopbiis.  Enclosed  by  Constantine's  new  walls  it  now  extended 
to  the  W.  to  the  region  of  the  present  Old  Bridge  (PI.  F,  4)  and  of 
Psamatia  (PI.  B,  C,  8).  The  Romans  retained  the  old  division  of  the  city 
into  fourteen  regions,  and  they  even  found  in  it  their  seven  hills  again. 
The  environs  as  far  as  the  7th  milestone  (hebdomon),  called  the  exokionion, 
were  assigned  to  the  seven  milliarii  of  the  Gothic  body-guard.  Under 
Arcadius,  in  395,  Constantinople  became  the  capital  of  the  new  E.  Roman 
empire.  The  rapid  increase  of  the  population  and  the  necessity  of  defend- 
ing it  against  the  attacks  of  the  Huns  and  Goths  induced  Anthemius, 
regent  during  the  minority  of  Thcodosius  II.  (-408-50),  to  build  the  new 
Theodosian  town-walls,  V2-174  M.  to  the  W.  of  those  of  Constantine.  In 
439  sea-walls  along  the  Sea  of  Marmora  and  the  Golden  Horn  were  added, 
and  after  447,  in  consequence  of  an  attack  by  Attila  and  to  repair  the  da- 
mage done  by  an  earthquake,  the  land-walls  were  restored  and  strengthened. 

Byzantium  attained  the  zenith  of  its  prosperity  under  Justinian 
(D27-G5).  He  rebuilt  the  city,  after  its  almost  entire  destruction  in  532 
during  the  rebellion  of  the  circus  parties  (Nika  revolt),  in  a  far  grander 
style,  and  on  the  site  of  Constantine's  basilica  founded  the  famous  church 
of  St.  Sophia.  Iu  the  form  of  Byzantine  civilizatiou  antique  culture 
survived  until  the  middle  ages,  although  finally  in  a  merely  torpid  state. 
This  Byzantine  development,  with  its  Greek  language  and  independent 
Oriental  church  under  the  patriarchal  government  at  Constantinople,  was 
an  outcome  of  the  late  Greek  ('Hellenistic')  and  Roman  culture. 

After  the  time  of  Justinian  the  empire  was  shaken  to  its  foundations 
by  intestine  disorders  and  foreign  wars.  The  attacks  of  the  Avars  anil 
Persians  (627)  were  succeeded  t>y  the  irruption  of  the  Arabs  under  the 
Omaiyadea  (p.  485),  who  in  673-8  and  717-8  besieged  Constantinople  by 
sea  and  by  land.  About  the  same  time  the  Bulgarians  founded  an  inde, 
pendent  kingdom  in  the  Balkan  peninsula,  and  they  too  (iu  813  and  924 

35* 


542     Route  si.  CONSTANTINOPLE.  Galata. 

attacked  the  city.  Russian  fleets  forced  their  way  into  the  Sea  of  Mar- 
mora in  860  and  1048.  Economically,  too,  Constantinople  was  on  tho 
wane:  from  the  11th  cent,  onwards  the  Seljuks  were  gaining  ground  in 
Asia  Minor,  and  the  Italian  maritime  cities  were  rapidly  acquiring  wealth 
and  power. 

The  quarrels  of  aspirants  to  the  throne  during  the  Angelos  dynasty 
led  in  1204  to  the  capture  of  Constantinople  by  the  Crusaders  and  to  the 
foundation  of  a  new  western  or  'Latin'  empire.  In  1261  the  Greek  em- 
peror Michael  Palacologos,  who  resided  at  Nikaaa,  succeeded  in  driving 
the  Franks  out  of  Constantinople  with  the  aid  of  the  Genoese,  to  whom 
he  presented  Galata  (see  below)  as  a  reward.  But  the  Turkish  peril  came 
over  nearer.  The  Osmans,  having  conquered  Asia  Minor  in  the  13th  cent., 
crossed  the  Dardanelles  (comp.  p.  531)  under  Orkhctn  in  1357,  and  under 
Miirad  I.,  in  1361,  made  Adnanople  the  residence  of  the  sultans  instead 
of  Brussa.  They  were  weakened  for  a  time  by  the  attacks  of  Timur 
(p.  485),  but  in  1411   and  1422  they  proceeded  to  besiege  Constantinople. 

After  a  heroic  defence  by  Constantine  XI.  Palaeologos,  the  last  Greek 
emperor,  the  city  was  at  length  captured  in  1153  by  Mohammed  II. 
(Mehemed  cl-Fatih,  'the  conqueror'),  and  under  the  name  of  Stambul 
became  the  capital  of  the  Osmans.  Its  fortunes  were  now  at  their  lowest 
ebb;  it  was  almost  entirely  depopulated  and  reduced  to  ruins,  as  had 
been  its  fate  when  captured  by  the  Crusaders  in  1204.  But  soon  Turkish 
settlers  from  all  quarters  thronged  to  the  new  capital,  and  many  Christians 
also,  their  lives  and  religion  being  safeguarded,  while  numerous  Jews 
banished  from  Spain  in  1492  found  a  new  home  here  and  have  retained 
their  old  language  and  characteristics  ever  since.  The  building  enterprise 
of  the  Turkish  sultans,  especially  of  Selim  I.  (1512-20),  the  conqueror  of 
Syria,  Mesopotamia,  and  Egypt,  and  of  Suleiman  the  Great  (1520-66),  as 
well  as  of  the  Turkish  magnates,  was  directed  exclusively  to  public 
edifices.  They  erected  mosques  (p.  539)  on  the  model  of  the  earlier  church 
of  the  Apostles  and  of  the  Aya  Sophia  (or  church  of  St.  Sophia),  tomb- 
chapels  (p.  539),  bazaars  and  warehouses  (hem),  and  baths  and  fountains 
(sebil,  with  running  water;  cheshmeh,  draw-well).  In  the  midst  of  these 
sumptuous  buildings  lay  a  labyrinth  of  crooked  streets  and  lanes,  the 
brightly  painted  timber  houses  with  their  grated  balconies  (kafchs)  being 
often  of  one  story  only,  while  here  and  there  this  strange  sea  of  houses 
was  relieved  by  gardens  and  burial-grounds. 

To  some  extent,  notwithstanding  destructive  fires  (as  in  1865  and 
1908)  and  earthquakes  (the  last  in  1894),  the  old  Oriental  characteristics 
of  the  city  still  survive  in  the  old  town  of  Stambul,  the  chief  scat  of 
the  Oriental  merchants  and  the  petty  traders,  and  also  at  Scutari  (p.  556). 
Galata,  on  the  other  hand,  the  centre  of  the  European  trade,  is  much 
like  an  Italian  seaport-town.  Above  it,  to  the  N.,  lies  Pera,  a  suburb 
which  sprang  up  in  the  19th  cent.,  and  which,  since  a  great  tire  in  1870, 
has  been  almost  entirely  rebuilt  in  quite  European  fashion. 

Of  Books  on  Constantinople  may  be  mentioned:  Grosvenor,  Con- 
stantinople (2  vols.,  London,  1895);  W.  H.  Button,  Constantinople  in  the 
'Mediaeval  Towns  Series'  (London,  1900);  and  Van  Millingen,  Byzantine 
Constantinople,  The  Walls,  etc.  (London,  1899). 

a.  Galata  and  Pera. 

Galata,  the  oldest  suburb  of  Constantinople,  rises  on  the  slope 
of  a  plateau  on  the  N.  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  Golden  Horn 
(p.  555),  corresponding  with  the  13th  region  of  the  city  of  Con- 
stantine (p.  541).  In  the  middle  ages  it  was  usually  called  Peira. 
Its  inhabitants  are  chiefly  Greeks  and  Armenians.  In  1304  the 
Genoese  (see  above)  enclosed  it  with  a  wall,  and  down  to  1453  held 


Pera.  CONSTANTINOPLE.  81.Rov.te.     543 

an  almost  independent  position  under  their  own  rulers  (podcsta). 
The  wall  was  often  rebuilt  and  was  at  last  removed  (1864). 

Behind  the  Galata  Quat  (PI.  H,  I,  4),  constructed  in  1879-95, 
lies  a  labyrinth  of  narrow  and  dirty  streets,  extending  to  the  other 
side  of  the  Grand  Rue  de  Galata  (p.  545),  the  chief  thoroughfare 
to  the  N.E.  suburbs.  At  the  S."W.  end  of  the  latter  are  the  still 
busier  Rue  de  Karakeui  (PI.  H,  4),  beside  the  New  Bridge  (p.  545), 
and  the  Place  Karakeui'.  where  the  Exchange  rises  on  the  left. 

In  the  old-fashioned  W.  quarter  of  Galata  are  the  ruinous 
Palace  of  the  Podesta  (in  the  Pershembeh  Bazaar,  PI.  H,  4)  and 
the  Arab  Jami  (PI.  G,  4),  the  oldest  mosque  in  the  city,  which  was 
founded  at  the  time  of  the  Arab  attacks  (717).  Near  it  is  the  Yanik 
Kapu,  an  old  Genoese  gateway.  A  little  farther  on,  near  the  Old 
Bridge  (p.  552),  is  the  Asab  Kapu  Jami  (PI.  G,  3,  4),  erected  by 
Sinan  (p.  552),  adjoining  which  is  a  beautiful  *Sebil  (p.  542),  with 
gilded  railings  and  far  projecting  timber  roof  (18th  cent.). 

From  the  Old  Bridge  Pera  is  reached  by  the  broad  Rue  Is- 
kauder  (PI.  G,  3),  and  from  the  New  Bridge  by  the  steep  and  dirty 
5Tuksek  Kaldikim  (PI.  &,  3,  4),  partly  in  steps  (and  also  by  the 
tunnel  or  by  tramway  No.  1;  p.  53S). 

On  the  boundary  between  Galata  and  Pera,  a  little  to  the  W. 
of  the  N.  end  of  the  Yiiksek  Kaldirim,  rises  the  Galata  Tower 
(PI.  H,  3;  148ft.  high),  now  entirely  modernized,  the  ascent  of 
which  (p.  539)  forms  the  best  introduction  to  a  walk  through  the 
city.  It  marks  the  spot  where  the  new  land-walls  on  the  E.  and 
W.  sides  of  Galata  met  in  1348.  We  mount  143  steps  to  the  room 
of  the  fire-watchmen,  and  72  more  to  the  three  upper  stories. 

The  *Pasorama  from  the  fourteen  windows  of  the  watchmen's  room 
embraces  Galata  with  the  buildings  on  the  quay;  to  the  N.E.  is  the  Jihangir 
Mosque  (p.  544);  opposite,  on  the  Asiatic  coast,  to  the  extreme  left  is 
the  palace  of  Beylerbey  (p.  558);  farther  to  the  S.  is  Scutari,  dominated 
by  the  Great  and  Little  Bulgiulu  (p.  557).  To  the  S.E.  lie  the  Princes 
Islands  (p.  535);  to  the  S.,  above  the  S.  coast  of  the  Sea  of  Marmora, 
rises  the  Bithynian  Olympos  (p.  535).  With  the  aid  of  the  Plan  of  the 
city  we  may  easily  locate  the  chief  buildings  of  Stambul,  from  the  Aya 
Sophia  and  the  Ahmed  Mosque  with  its  six  minarets,  to  the  S.,  round  to 
the  Great  Bazaar  with  its  numerous  little  domes,  to  the  Place  d'Armes 
(Seraskier-Kapou),  with  the  great  tower,  the  barracks,  and  the  Suleiman 
Mosque,  to  the  Mihrimah  Mosque,  and  to  the  Byzantine  city-wall  at  the 
extreme  N.  end  of  Stambul.  At  our  feet  lies  the  Golden  Horn,  with  the 
two  bridges  and  the  naval  harbour.  In  the  distance,  to  the  N.AV.. 
the  mosque  of  Eyub  (see  inset  map  in  Plan  of  city). 

The  modern  streets  of  Pera,  the  European  quarter,  run  to  the 
N.W.  from  the  Galata  Tower,  between  old  Turkish  cemeteries  and 
large  gardens,  across  the  whole  hill.  The  embassies  to  the  Sublime 
Porte,  the  European  churches,  schools,  hospitals,  and  shops  also  are 
situated  here. 

The  Grande  Rue  de  Pera  (PI.  H,  I,  3,  2),  the  continuation  of 
YiiUek  Kaldirim,  passes  the  Monastery  of  the  Dancing  Dervishes 


544     Route  at.  CONSTANTINOPLE.  Pern. 

(Tekkeh;  Pl.H,  3),  whose  strange  performances  may  be  witnessed 
on  Fridays  (except  during  Ramadan),  usually  from  7.30  to  8.30 
Turkish  time  (ilj^ll2  hrs.  before  sunset;  adm.  5  pias.). 

We  may  now  cross  the  Place  du  Tunnel,  past  the  upper  station 
of  the  tunnel  railway  (PI.  H,  3;  p.  538),  and  follow  Rue  Kabristan 
(or  one  of  the  narrow  streets  to  the  left,  farther  to  the  N.,  such  as 
the  Rue  Venedik)  to  the  — 

Public  Grounds  of  the  Petits  Champs  (PI.  H,  3,  2), 
near  the  British  Embassy  (PI.  H,  2)  and  the  chief  hotels  (p.  537). 
They  afford  a  beautiful  view  of  Stambul  and  the  Golden  Horn, 
and  are  a  favourite  resort  in  the  afternoon  and  evening  (concerts, 
see  p.  539). 

We  return,  to  the  N.E.,  by  Rue  Tepe  Bachi  to  the  Grande  Rue  de 
Pera,  whence  the  Rue  Yeni  Tcharchi  leads  to  the  S.E.,  past  the 
Galata  Serai  (PI.  H,  2;  Imper.  Lyceum),  to  Top  Haneh. 

Our  street  ends,  at  the  N.W.  end  of  Pera,  at  the  Place  du 
Taxim  (PI.  I,  2).  Here  on  the  right,  adjoining  the  Kishla  Jaddesi, 
are  the  Artillery  Barracks,  one  of  the  chief  scenes  of  conflict  on 
•25th  April  1909  when  the  Young  Turks  fought  their  way  into  the 
city,  and  the  *Taxirn  Park  (PI.  I,  1 ;  band,  see  p.  539),  and  on 
the  left  a  large  esplanade. 

From  the  Place  du  Taxim  we  may  ascend  the  Ayas  Pasha  Boule- 
vard, past  the  German  Embassy,  or  from  the  Taxim  Park  the 
Dolma  Bagtch6  Dere  (PI.  K,  1 ;  Dolma-garden  valley),  past  the 
Ecuries  Impe'riales,  to  Place  Dolma  Bagtche  Dere.  On  the  E. 
side  of  this  square,  below  the  suburb  of  that  name,  rises  the  Dolma 
Bagcheh  Palace  (pp.  558,  546),  of  which  only  the  high  walls 
with  their  superb  gateways  are  seen  on  the  inland  side.  The  sultan 
repairs  hither  weekly  in  solemn  procession  ('selamlik')  to  Friday 
prayer  (at  noon),  usually  offered  in  the  neighbouring  Valideh  Jami 
(mosque  of  the  sultan's  mother;  PI.  K,  1,  2). 

We  may  now  follow  the  road  to  the  N.E.  through  the  adjacent 
suburb  of  Beshiktash,  where,  opposite  the  steamboat  pier,  rises 
the  Tilrbeh  Kheireddin  Barbarossa  (p.  221),  which  is  best  viewed 
from  the  Bosporus.  Farther  on  are  the  ruins  of  the  Chiragan  Serai 
(p.  558). 

From  the  pierof  Beshiktash  aroadleads  to  tlieN.E.to  the  Yildiz 
Kiosque,  surrounded  with  barracks  and  high  walls,  formerly  the 
residence  of  the  now  deposed  sultan  Abdul  Hamid  (1876-1909). 
The  Palace  and  its  Park,  and  the  private  Hamidieh  Mosque,  built 
of  white  marble,  are  inaccessible. 

It  is  now  best  to  return  by  tramway  (No.  2;  p.  538)  to  the  large 
suburb  of  Top  Haneh  (PI.  I,  3),  inhabited  chiefly  by  Turks,  with 
the  loftily  situated  Jihangir  Mosque  (1553). 

Here,  in  the  esplanade  of  the  Artillery  Arsenal  on  the  Bos- 
porus, are  situated  the  Mosque,  of  Mahmvd  II.  (1830)  and  a  fine 


Stambul.  CONSTANTINOPLE.  Si.  Route.      545 

bnt  now  roofless  Well  House  of  the  time  of  Ahmed  II.  (1703-30), 
resembling  the  sebil  at  the  Asab  Kapu  (p.  543).  The  Musque  of 
Kilij  All  Pasha  (Pi.  I,  3)  was  buiit  by  Sinan  (p.  552). 

We  now  return  to  Pera  by  the  Rues  Tchoukour  Bostan  and  Yeni 
Tcharchi  (p.  544),  or  by  the  Grande  Rue  de  Galata  (PI.  I,H,  3,4), 
the  busiest  international  thoroughfare,  to  Place  Karakeul  (p.  543). 

b.  Stambul. 

From  the  Rue  KarakeuT,  in  Galata,  the  New  Bridge  (PI.  H, 
4,  5)  crosses  the  Golden  Horn  (p.  555)  to  Stambul  (toll  10  paras; 
carr.  2'/2  pias.).  It  was  originally  built  of  timber  in  1845,  and  called 
Sultan  Valideh  Bridge  after  its  founder  (the  'sultan's  mother'),  and 
was  rebuilt  in  1877.  The  new  iron  bridge  was  begun  in  1909.  It 
affords  beautiful  *  Views  of  Galata  and  Stambul,  of  the  Bosporus 
and  the  Asiatic  coast,  while  its  busy  and  picturesque  traffic  presents 
scenes  of  endless  variety. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  bridge  lies  the  Place  Emin  Eunod  (PI. 
H,  5),  called  also  Baluk  Bazar  or  fish-market,  beyond  which  rise 
the  tine  outlines  of  the  — 

*Yeni  Valideh  Jami  (PI.  H,  5),  or  'new  mosque  of  the  sul- 
tan's mother'.  Begun  in  1615  by  Khoja  Kassim  for  the  mother  of 
Ahmed  I.,  after  the  model  of  Ahmed's  Mosque,  and  damaged  by 
the  great  fire  of  1660,  it  was  not  completed  till  1663.  In  the 
middle  of  the  outer  court  are  ranged,  as  in  all  the  larger  Turkish 
mosques,  the  forecourt  (haram)  with  its  three  portals,  the  mosque 
itself,  and  the  turbeh  (p.  539),  all  turned  towards  Mecca  (to  the  S.E.). 

The  forecourt,  with  its  two  elegant  minarets  and  large  wooden  roofs 
above  the  side-portals,  has  a  remarkably  tine  octagonal  fountain  of  ablution 
(shadrivan)  in  the  centre. 

Like  the  Sulei'manieh  (p.  552)  the  mosque  is  preceded  by  two  colon- 
nades. In  the  interior  the  lower  wall  surfaces  and  the  four  massive 
pillars  of  the  dome  are  incrusted  with  bluish-green  tiles.  The  mihrab 
wall  is  connected  with  the  pillars  by  a  gallery;  adjoining  it,  near  the 
mihr'ib  or  prayer-niche  itself,  are  the  superb  pulpit  and  the  railod-in 
gallery  of  the  sultan.  The  adjacent  *Privato  Rooms  of  the  saltan  still 
have  their  original  decoration  of  fayence  tiles  and  stained  glass. 

The  Ttlrbeh  contains  the  sarcophagus  of  the  sultan's  mother  and  the 
tombs  of  five  sultans,  recognizable  by  the  turban  and  double  heron's 
plume. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  outer  court  is  the  Missir  Charski 
(PI.  G,  5;  'Egyptian  Bazaar'),  originally  for  goods  from  Egypt,  but 
now  a  general  market,  next  in  importance  to  the  Great  Bazaar 
(p.  551).  Among  the  wares  in  the  open  shops  of  the  vaulted  street 
the  chief  commodities  are  spices,  drugs,  and  pigments. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Egyptian  Bazaar,  at  the  foot  of  Rue  Ousoun 
Tcharchi  (p.  551),  rises  the  Mosque  of  Rustem  Pasha  (PI.  G,  5),  vizier  of 
Suleiman  the  Great  (p.  542)  and  husband  of  his  daughter  Mihrimah  (p.  553). 
It  was  built  by  Siu;in  (p.  552).  The  interior  is  noteworthy  chietiy  for  the 
•uperb  effect  produced  by  its  fayence  tiles. 

We  follow  the  tramway  (No.  3;  p.  538),  to  the  S.E.,  through  the 


546     Route  81.  CONSTANTINOPLE.  New  Museum. 

Rue  Bagtche  kapou,  so  named  after  the  old  'garden-gate'  of  Stainbul, 
and  the  Hamidieh  Jaddesi,  crossing  the  broad  Bab  Ali  Jaddesi  which 
leads  to  the  left  to  the  Railway  Station  (p.  537).  Farther  on  we 
come  to  the  wall  of  the  Seraglio  on  the  left,  and  to  (10  min.)  the 
Sublime  Porte  (PI.  H,  6;  vizierate  and  ministry  of  foreign  affairs) 
on  the  right.  Its  central  part,  which  contained  the  ministry  of  home 
affairs  and  the  cabinet  was  burnt  down  in  Feb.  1911. 

The  Seraglio  or  Serai  (PI.  H-I,  5,  7 ;  now  officially  called 
Top  Kapu  Serai,  'seraglio  of  the  cannon-gate'),  with  its  neglected 
garden-terraces  and  miscellaneous  buildings,  occupies  the  site  of 
the  Acropolis  and  oldest  streets  of  Byzantium  (p.  541)  and  the  first 
of  the  seven  hills  of  New  Kome.  Within  the  extensive  precincts,  en- 
closed by  a  pinnacled  wall  and  defended  by  towers,  Mohammed  II. 
in  1468  erected  a  summer  palace,  which  Suleiman  the  Great  (p.  542) 
enlarged  and  made  his  residence.  All  the  sultans  resided  here  until 
Abdul  Mejid  built  the  Dolma  Bagcheh  Palace  (1850-5 ;  p.  558) 
In  1873  the  railway  was  earned  through  the  gardens,  past  the 
Granite  Column  of  Emp.  Claudius  II.  (268-70  A.  D.).  Around 
the  palace  are  grouped  the  old  church  of  Irene  (p.  548),  several 
military  and  other  new  buildings,  the  imperial  Mint,  and  the  School 
of  Art  founded  in  1889. 

From  the  chief  entrance,  the  So-uk  Cheshmeh  Gate  (PI.  H,  6), 
we  ascend  to  the  right,  past  the  Mint,  to  the  first  terrace.  A  road 
to  the  left  leads  thence,  behind  the  School  of  Art,  to  the  New 
Museum,  on  the  right,  and  the  Chiuili  Kiosque,  on  the  left. 

The  New  Museum  (PI.  I,  6),  opened  in  1891,  contains  the 
imperial  **Collection  of  Antiquities,  the  arrangement  of  which  is 
still  incomplete.    Adm.,  see  p.  539.   Director,  Halil  Bey. 

Ground  Floor.  The  first  rooms,  on  the  right  and  left  of  the  entrance, 
contain  the  sarcophagi,  including  the  famous  coffins  discovered  in  1887 
in  the  so-called  royal  tomhs  of  Sidon  (p.  470).  The  two  vaults,  in  which 
the  rulers  of  Sidon  of  the  6-4th  cent.  B.  C.  are  supposed  to  have  been 
huried,  contained  26  stone  coffins,  some  in  the  Egyptian  form  of  a  mummy, 
with  sculptured  heads,  others  shaped  like  Greek  temples.  In  several  cases 
their  execution  is  highly  artistic.  The  finest  are  in  (right)  Boom  I :  *No.  48. 
So-called  Satrap's  Coffin,  of  Ionian  workmanship  (first  half  of  5th  cent.) ; 
*49.  Sarcophagus  of  the  mourning  women,  in  marble,  in  the  form  of  a 
temple,  influenced  in  style  by  the  works  of  Praxiteles  (4th  cent.).  In 
(left)  Boom  II:  *No.  75.  Lycian  sarcophagus,  with  lid  in  the  form  of  a 
pointed  arch,  executed  under  the  fresh  influence  of  the  Parthenon  reliefs 
(p.  517) ;  **76.  Alexander  sarcophagus,  an  Attic  original  (about  300  B.  C), 
with  traces  of  rich  colouring;  90.  Sarcophagus  of  Tabnit,  king  of  Sidon, 
originally  that  of  an  Egyptian  general  (6th  cent.).  Again,  in  Boom  I: 
No.  1142.  Tomb-stele  from  Nisyros  (p.  490  j  about  500  B.  C.)i  45.  Tomb- 
stele  from  Pella,  a  fine  early  Greek  work  like  the  last;  31-33.  Fragments 
of  Eoman  sarcophagi  (Ulysses  fighting  against  the  wooers,  etc.) ;  also 
leaden  coffins  from  Beirut,  Khoms  (p.  412),  etc.  (Boom  II  contains  also 
six  terracotta  coffins  from  Klazomenas,  6th  cent.  B.  0.).  Among  the  objects 
in  the  other  rooms  we  note  a  large  Lycian  sarcophagus  from  Trysa  (2nd  cent. 
B.  C.) ;  *1179.  Late  Boman  sarcophagus  from  the  region  of  Konia,  with 
the  recumbent  figures  of  man  and  wife. 

A   large  room   is   devoted   solely   to   the   art  and  inscriptions  of  the 


ChinUi  Kiosque.         CONSTANTINOPLE.  si.  Route.     547 

Hittites,  the  dominating  race  on  the  Upper  Euphrates,  in  Syria,  and  in 
Asia  Minor  from  about  1500  to  1000  B.C.,  who  were  afterwards  split  up 
into  small  principalities  and  lost  their  national  characteristics.  From 
this  later  period  (about  9 -8th  cent.)  date  the  numerous  objects  from 
Senjerli  in  N.  Syria  (among  others  No.  873.  Two  sphinxes  as  a  base  of  a 
column).  Other  relics  are  from  Marrash  in  N.  Syria  (840.  Lion  with  in- 
scription) and  from  Albistan  (835.  Limestone  pillar). 

Two  rooms  are  set  apart  for  the  Greek-Roman  sculptures.  Among 
the  chief  early  Greek  works  (6th  cent.  B.  C.)  are:  No.  5bis.  Eeliefs  from 
a  tombstone  in  the  form  of  a  pillar,  with  scenes  of  peace  and  war;  8, 
133.  Torso  of  Apollo  and  Relief  of  Hercules  drawing  his  bow,  both  from 
Thasos;  680.  Tomb-stele  from  Dorylaeuin  in  Phrygia;  *78.  llead  of  a  man. 
early  Ionian,  from  Rhodes;  32,  33.  Kybele,  from  Kyme;  1136.  Relief. 
Birth  of  Athena,  from  Chalcedon.  —  Of  the  5th  cent. :  No.  1189.  Carya- 
tid; 1433.  Hermes  Propylaeos,  after  the  famous  work  of  Alkamenes  (Ro- 
man copy};  *148.  Snake's  head  from  the  tripod  in  the  At  Meidan  (p.  '  i  . 
Among  other  creations  of  the  Greek  golden  age  (4th  cent.)  are:  No.  ll-'i. 
Statue  of  a  youth;  114.  Upper  half  of  a  stele,  from  Kyzikos;  1242.  Relief 
with  a  portrait  of  Euripides;  1028.  Relief  of  a  woman  playing  on  the 
lyre,  from  Mysia.  —  Hellenistic  sculptures  from  Pergamum  (p.  533):  *T64. 
Dancer,  from  a  large  circular  monument;  *1138.  Marble  head  (Alexander 
tho  Great?);  72.  Marsyas  hanging  (a  good  copy);  also  important:  *709. 
Alexander  the  Great,  from  Magnesia  on  the  Sipylos;  685.  Colossal  head 
of  Zeus,  from  Troy;  9.  Colossal  statue  of  Apollo,  from  Tralleis;  *1423. 
Relief  of  a  boatman  (?),  from  Tralleis,  in  the  style  of  the  'Alexandrine' 
reliefs.  —  Of  Roman  origin:  31.  Largest  representation  of  the  so-called 
Thracian  horseman,  from  a  triumphal  arch  at  Saloniki. 

In  the  room  of  the  Byzantine  antiquities  we  note  No.  164.     Statu.' 

of   the   Good   Shepherd   (3rd  cent.?);  *1090.  Early-Christian   pulpit  from 

Saloniki,  with  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi  in  detached  figures;   189,  190. 

Fragments  of  a  column  with  scenes  with  figures  (Baptism  of  Christ,  etc. ; 

00);  also  interesting  capitals  with  figures  and  foliage  ornamentation. 

Two  rooms  form  an  Architectural  Museum  (Asia  Minor  relies). 

The  First  Floor  is  occupied  by  the  Babylonian-Assyrian  antiquities 
(inol.  the  glazed  terracotta  sarcophagi  from  Nippur,  and  No.  1027.  Votive 
relief  of  king  Naram-Sin,  about  3750  B.C.),  the  unimportant  Egyptian 
relics,  and  curiosities  from  Cyprus  (p.  489),  Hiinyar  (region  of  Yemen  in 
S.  Arabia),  and  Palmyra.  Then  collections  of  bronzes  and  trinkets  from 
Schliemann'3  excavations  at  Hissarlik  (p.  531),  from  the  Sidonian  sarco- 
phagi (p.  546),  etc.;  vases  and  terracottas  from  Asia  Minor  (Hissarlik. 
Myrina,  Pricne),  Cos  (p.  490),  and  Rhodes ;  glass  vessels  from  Asia  Minor, 
Cyprus,  Syria,  and  Tripolitania;  also  a  collection  of  coins.  —  The  N.  wing 
contains  the  Museum  Library. 

The  elegant  Chinili  Kiosque  (PI.  I,  6;  'fayer.ee  palace'),  one 
of  the  oldest  Turkish  buildings  in  the  city,  was  erected  in  1470 
by  Kemal  ed-Din  under  Mohammed  II.,  in  the  Persian  style,  and 
was  restored  in  1590.  In  1908  it  was  converted  into  au  -Oriental 
Art  Museum.    Adni.,  see  p.  539. 

The  two-storied  portico  (ticket-office  on  the  left)  contains  tombstones, 
etc.  —  The  vestibule,  with  its  original  inscribed  frieze,  is  adorned  with 
well-preserved  green  *Fayence  Tiles. 

The  domed  hall  and  five  side-rooms  contain  Arabian,  Persian,  and 
Turkish  fayence,  Turkish  pottery,  seals  (tugres) ,  firmans,  and  irades  of 
Turkish  sultans,  woodwork  (koran-desks,  cabinets,  etc.),  leather  (beautiful 
book-bindings),  and  metal  work;  also  cut  gems,  Arabian  and  Venetian 
glass,  mosque-lamps,  embroidery,  and  *Persian  Carpets.  The  chief  trea- 
sures of  the  collection  are  the  *Prayer  Niche  from  the  palace  of  the 
sultan  Alaeddin   at  Konia  (13th  cent.)  and  a  throne  of  Selim  I.  (p.  51:;). 


548     Route  81.  CONSTANTINOPLE.  Aya  Sophia. 

Passing  the  Mint  (p.  546)  we  next  enter  the  outer  court  of 
the  Seraglio.  In  the  centre  rises  the  huge  Janissaries'  Plane  Tree 
(PI.  I,  6),  where  the  janissaries  (p.  550)  used  to  meet.  —  To  the  left 
the  Orta  Kapu  leads  to  the  Seraglio  Palace  (adm.,  see  p.  540). 
It  contains  the  throne-room  (Arsh  Odasi)  of  the  time  of  Suleiman 
the  Great,  the  Library,  the  Imperial  Treasury  (hazneh  han),  and 
the  superb  Bagdad  Kiosque  (1639),  etc. 

Above  the  outer  court  rise3,  on  the  right,  the  Church  of  Irene 
(PI.  I,  6;  dedicated  to  'divine  peace'),  a  domed  basilica  built  by 
Constantine,  and  restored  first  by  Justinian  after  the  Nika  revolt 
(p.  541),  and  again  in  740.  After  the  Turkish  conquest  it  was  used 
as  an  arsenal,  but  is  now  a  Military  Museum  (adm.,  see  p.  539). 

We  leave  the  Seraglio  by  the  Bab  i  Humayun  (PI.  I,  6),  the 
superb  modern  gate  of  the  sultan,  replacing  that  of  Mohammed  II. 

In  the  Serai  MeTdAn  (PL  I,  6,  7;  'Seraglio  Square'),  on  the 
S.W.  side  of  the  palace-walls,  rises  the  *  Fountain  of  Ahmed  III., 
erected  in  1728,  the  finest  sebil  in  the  city,  with  a  well-preserved 
timber  roof.  Nearly  opposite  are  the  Aya  Sophia  and  the  Ministry 
of  Justice  (PI.  H,  I,  7),  which  was  the  meeting-place  of  the  new 
Tnrkish  parliament  in  1908-9. 

The  **Aya  Sophia  Mosque  (PI.  H,  7;  adm.,  see  p.  539), 
formerly  the  church  of  St.  Sophia,  4  min.  to  the  S.  of  the  So-uk 
Cheshmeh  Gate  (p.  546),  is  the  most  famous  edifice  in  the  whole 
city.  Here  in  326,  opposite  to  his  palace,  Constantine  erected  a 
basilica,  which  he  dedicated  to  Divine  Wisdom  (Sophia),  and  which 
after  a  fire  in  415  was  rebuilt  by  Theodosius  II.  The  church  hav- 
ing again  been  destroyed  during  the  Nika  rebellion,  Justinian 
caused  the  present  sumptuous  edifice,  which  was  to  eclipse  all 
others  in  the  empire,  to  be  erected  in  532-7  by  Anthemios  of 
Tralleis  and  Isidoros  of  Miletos. 

The  plan  of  the  building  is  nearly  square.  Its  axis,  contrary  to 
custom,  runs  to  the  E.S.E.,  in  line  with  that  of  the  palace.  It  mea- 
sures 82^2  by  77  yds.,  but  if  the  atrium  or  forecourt  had  still  existed 
the  length  would  have  been  no  less  than  184  yds.  The  edifice  with 
its  nave  and  aisles  presents  a  curious  combination  of  an  ancient 
Christian  basilica  with  a  dome-covered  mosque.  Above  the  nave, 
which  is  36  yds.  in  breadth,  the  great  dome,  105  ft.  in  diameter 
and  184  ft.  in  height,  but  externally  inconspicuous,  rises  on  four 
massive  pillars.  It  is  continued  lengthwise  by  two  half-domes, 
relieved  by  niches,  the  large  E.  central  niche  forming  the  apse. 
The  upper  story  of  the  aisles,  borne  by  antique  columns  with  capitals 
resembling  imposts,  and  the  galleries  above  the  inner  vestibule 
contained  the  gynseceum,  or  women's  seats. 

The  Crusaders  pillaged  the  church  in  1204  (p.  542),  and  many 
of  its  treasures  were  carried  off  also  at  the  Turkish  conquest.  The 
mosaics  were  whitewashed,  the  minaret  at  the  S.E.  angle  was  erect- 


Aya  Sophia  CONSTANTINOPLE.  SI.  Route.     549 

ed,  and  the  unsightly  flying  buttresses  were  added  on  the  E.  side. 
To  the  further  detriment  of  the  general  effect  the  successors  of  the 
conqueror  built  the  other  three  minarets,  the  mausoleums,  schools, 
and  outbuildings.  A  thorough  restoration  was  undertaken  by  Fos- 
sati,  an  Italian  architect,  iu  1847,  when  the  outside  was  painted 
yellow  with  red  stripes. 

The  entrance  for  visitors  is  in  the  N.  side-street,  by  a  door  to  the 
left  of  the  N.W.  minaret.  A  few  steps  descend  to  the  Inner  Vestibule 
(eso-narthex),  from  which  five  doors  open  on  the  outer  vestibule  (exo- 
narthex)  and  nine  portals  lead  into  the  interior.  At  the  S.  end  of  the 
inner  vestibule,  opposite  the  N.  entrance,  is  a  Byzantine  *Bronze  Door 
(9th  cent.),  with  part  of  the  original  panels. 

The  northmost  portal  admits  us  to  the  *Ikterior,  in  which  the  im- 
mense central  dome,  in  contrast  to  St.  Peter's  at  Rome,  dominates  the 
entire  nave.  The  marble  pavement  is  partly  destroyed  and  partly  covered 
with  carpets  and  mats  spread  obliquely  in  the  direction  of  Mecca  (S.E.). 
The  mihrab  or  prayer-recess  has  been  placed,  for  the  same  reason,  a  little 
to  the  S.  of  the  axis  of  the  anse.  Beside  the  pillars  of  the  apse  are,  on 
the  right,  the  mimbar,  or  Friday  pulpit,  and  on  the  left  the  octagonal 
grated  gallery  of  the  sultan,  resting  on  eight  antique  columns.  The  nave 
contains  several  open  galleries  or  tribunes  for  prayer-recitals.  The  Koran 
niche  in  the  S.  aisle  also  is  worth  seeing.  (Visitors  should  be  eareful  not 
to  touch  anything.) 

During  the  nights  of  Ramadan  (p.  539)  visitors  are  admitted  only  to 
the  galleries,  which  the  sacristan  will  show  at  other  times. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  mosque,  adjoining  the  Aya  Sophia  Me'idan,  rise 
five  Turbehs,  or  burial-chapels  of  sultans.  The  southmost,  once  the  bap- 
tistery of  the  church,  dates  perhaps  from  Justinian's  reign. 

The  Aya  S6phia  MeYdAn  (PI.  H,  7),  a  busy  square  planted  with 
trees,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  mosque,  was  the  ancient  Augusttion  (or 
Agora),  the  greatest  centre  of  traffic  in  New  Rome,  whence  the  trium- 
phal road  led  to  the  Golden  Gate  (p.  554).  Down  to  the  Turkish  con- 
quest it  was  adorned  with  a  mounted  statue  of  Justinian.  Adjoining 
it  on  the  S.W.  lies  the  AtMcY'dax  (P1.H,7;  'horse  square'),  330  yds. 
long,  partly  occupying  the  site  of  a  Hippodrome  begun  by  Sept. 
Siaverus  (p.  541)  and  completed  by  Constantine.  From  these  two 
squares,  and  from  the  Serai  Mel'dan  (p.  548),  the  Roman  and  Byzan- 
tine imperial  palaces,  with  their  dependencies  and  several  churches, 
extended  to  the  S.E.  to  the  town-wall  on  the  Sea  of  Marmora. 

At  the  N.  angle  of  At  Me'idan.  where  Rue  Divan  Yolou  (p.  550) 
diverges,  lie3  a  small  Public  Garden.  Farther  on,  to  the-S.W., 
passing  a  Street  Fountain  presented  by  Emp.  William  II.  in  1898, 
we  come  to  three  ancient  monuments  which  still  occupy  their  old 
places  on  the  spina  of  the  Hippodrome  (comp.  p.  348).  One  is  the 
Obelisk  of  Thevdosius  I.,  dating  from  the  time  of  Thutmosis  III. 
(p.  456;  brought  from  Heliopolis),  with  Roman  reliefs,  on  the  ped- 
estal, of  the  imperial  family  viewing  the  races  from  the  court-stand 
of  the  Hippodrome.  The  second  is  the  bronze  *Snake  Column, 
once  the  central  support  of  a  huge  tripod  which  the  Greeks  erected 
as  a  votive  offering  at  Delphi  after  the  victory  of  Plataea  (p.  506). 
The  third  is  the  so-called  Colossus,  an  obelisk  of  unknown  origin. 


550     Route  81.  CONSTANTINOPLE.      Mosque  of  Ahmed. 

No  less  conspicuous  than  the  Aya  Sophia  is  the  *Mosque  of 
Ahmed  I.  (PI.  H,  7),  on  the  S.E.  side  of  At  Meidan.  It  was  built 
by  the  young  sultan  of  that  name  in  1608-14  as  the  second-largest 
mosque  in  the  city,  and  is  the  only  one  besides  the  Kaaba  at  Mecca 
that  has  six  minarets.  The  large  outer  court,  planted  with  trees 
and  often  used  as  a  market-place,  is  separated  from  At  Mel'dan  by 
a  broken-down  wall.  The  lofty  chief  portal,  with  its  stalactite  niche 
and  its  fine  bronze  gate,  leads  into  a  forecourt  flanked  with  domed 
colonnades  where  we  notice  the  pretty  stalactite  capitals.  In  the 
centre  rises  a  superb  hexagonal  marble  fountain  with  a  railing. 

The  interior  of  the  mosque  (79  by  70  yds.),  in  the  style  of  the 
Mehmedieh  (p.  553),  resembles  the  Shahzadeh  mosque  (p.  552)  in 
the  disposition  of  its  four  half-domes.  The  great  central  dome, 
73  ft.  in  diameter,  rests  on  four  clumsy  round  pillars,  and  around 
it  runs  a  low  gallery  with  depressed  keel-arches.  The  walls  are 
lined  with  white  marble  below  and  with  beautiful  fayence  tiles 
from  Niksea  above. 

To  the  S.W.  of  At  Meidan  is  the  Janissaries'1  Museum  (PL  G,  H,  7 ; 
adin.,  see  p.  539),  in  which  are  exhibited  wax-figures  wearing  the  ancient 
costumes  of  Turkish  dignitaries  and  the  uniforms  of  the  Janissaries,  or 
old  body-guard  (1328-1826). 

To  the  S.  of  the  Museum,  close  to  the  railway,  rises  the  *Kiichuk 
Aya  Sophia  (PL  H,  1,  8),  or  'little'  mosque  of  Aya  Sophia,  a  kind  of 
prelude  to  the  'great',  now  containing  a  military  museum.  It  was  built 
under  Justinian  in  528,  at  the  same  time  as  San  Vitale  at  Ravenna,  as  a 
church  of  SS.  Serffitts  and  Bacchus.  The  building  is  nearly  square,  with 
semicircular  niches  at  the  angles,  and  encloses  an  octagonal  interior,  be- 
tween the  eight  corner-columns  of  which  are  four  semicircular  niches  and 
four  straight  rows  of  columns.  The  junction  of  the  walls  with  the  dome 
was  masked,  as  later  in  the  Sophia  Church,  by  curved  triangular  spandrels 
or  pendentives. 

Beyond  the  public  garden  (p.  549)  we  enter  the  Rub  Divan  Yolou 
(tramway  No.  3,  p.  538).  At  the  end  of  it,  on  the  right,  is  a  railed- 
in  burial-ground  containing  the  handsome  Tilrbeh  of  Mdhmud  II. 
(d.  1839)  and  his  son  Abdul  Aziz  (sultan  in  1861-76).  Entrance  to 
the  right,  in  Rue  Makmondie. 

In  the  main  street,  now  called  Sedefdjilar  Yolou,  we  next  come 
to  the  second  hill  of  New  Rome  (p.  541),  crowned  with  the  so-called 
Burnt  Column  (PI.  G-,  6;  Turk.  Chemberli  Task,  'stone  with 
the  hoop').  This  great  column  of  porphyry  was  erected  by  Con- 
stantine  on  the  ancient  'triumphal  way',  to  mark  the  centre  of  his 
forum,  and  bore  his  statue  in  bronze  down  to  1105.  It  was  re- 
stored in  1909.  The  street  then  leads  past  the  Kalpakjilar  Kapu 
(on  the  right),  the  S.  gate  of  the  Great  Bazaar  (p.  551),  to  the 
Bayazid  Mosque  (p.  551). 

From  the  Burnt  Column  the  Rue  Nouri  Osmanie  leads  to  the  N. 
to  the  white  marble  Mosque  of  Nuri  Osmanieh  (PI.  6,  6),  a  bold 
dome-roofed  edifice  copied  from  the  Selim  Mosque  (p.  553),  but 
with  a  semicircular  forecourt. 


/  llazaar.  CONSTANTINOPLE.  81.  Route.      55] 

Adjacent  on  the  W.  is  the  *  Great  Bazaar  (PI.  G,  6;  Turk. 
Biiyiik  Charshi,  'great  market'),  one  of  the  sights  of  Constantin- 
ople. It  lies  in  a  depression  between  the  Nuri  Osmanieh  Mosque 
and  the  Serasker  Square  (see  below)  and  forms  a  distinct  quarter  of 
the  city,  enclosed  by  gates.  As  in  the  sftks  (p.  335)  the  crafts  mostly 
have  their  own  streets  or  districts.  Most  of  the  buildings  have  been 
re-erected  since  the  earthquake  of  1894.  To  the  early  17th  cent,  be- 
ihe  still  extant  castellated  Valideh  Han  (see  below) ;  of  the 
early  18th  cent,  are  the  Bezestdn  (the  main  central  building,  found- 
ed in  the  10th  cent.)  and  the  Sandal  Bezestdn.  Besides  genuine 
Oriental  wares  many  European  goods  also  are  sold  here. 

The  Nwi  Osmanieh  Kapu,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  outer  court  of  the 
mosque,  opens  on  to  the  Kalpakjilar  Bashi  Jaddesi,  the  main  thorough- 
fare on  the  S.  side  of  the  Bazaar.  Immediately  on  the  right  is  the  Sandal 
Bezestdn,  once  the  silk-bazaar,  now  a  warehouse  (usually  closed). 

The  street  on  the  N.  side  (Restaurant  Tokatlian,  see  p.  537)  leads  to 
tlu>  W.  after  a  few  paces  to  the  Bezestan  (PI.  Bez.;'  G,  6),  where  artistic 
old  weapons,  gold  and  silver  wares,  inlaid  furniture,  etc.  are  displayed. 
In  the  street  on  the  E.  side  are  sold  jewels  and  trinkets;  on  the  N.  side 
cloth,  Oriental  antiquities,  and  books;  on  the  W.  side  Turkish  women's 
apparel  and  embroidery;  on  the  S.  side  leather-work,  etc. 

From  the  W.  gate  of  the  Bezestan  we  pass  through  the  Bezestan 
Jaddesi,  with  its  clothes-shops,  to  the  Ousoura  Tcharchi,  the  main  street 
ascending  from  the  Eustem  Pasha  Mosque  (p.  545)  to  the  S.  gate  (Kalpak- 
jilar Kapu,  p.  550).  Going  straight  on  we  may  ascend  through  the  curved 
Fesjiler  Jaddesi,  the  fez-market,  to  the  Bit  Bazar  Jaddesi,  a  street 
running  to  the  N.  and  S.,  the  entrance  to  the  (left)  Second-hand  Marl- tt 
(Bat  Bazar,  jestingly  called  'bit  bazar'  or  louse-market).  In  the  other 
direction,  a  few  paces  to  the  N.,  is  the  Hakkaklar  Sckak,  with  the  stalls 
of  the  seal-engravers,   booksellers,  etc.,   leading  to  the  Bayazid  Mosque. 

Those  who  intend  to  return  from  the  Great  Bazaar  direct  to  the  New 
Bridge  (p.  545)  may  visit  also  the  Valideh  Han  (PI.  G,  5,  6;  see  above),  the 
seat  of  the  Persian  traders,  situated  in  the  Chakmakjilar  Yokussu,  di- 
verging to  the  E.  from  the  Ousoun  Tcharchi. 

On  the  third  hill  of  the  city,  the  site  of  the  forum  of  Theodosius  I., 
rise  the  Bayazid  Mosque  and  the  Seraskerat  in  its  large  court. 

The  -:'Mosque  of  Bayazid  (PI.  6,  6)  was  erected  in  1489-97 
by  the  Albauian  Kheircddin,  under  sultan  Bayazid,  sou  of  Moham- 
med II.,  the  conqueror.  The  handsome  portals  of  the  forecourt  recall 
Seljuk  prototypes.  The  beautiful  forecourt,  enlivened  ever  since 
the  time  of  the  founder  by  countless  pigeons,  has  pointed  arcades 
with  elegant  domes.  In  the  centre  is  an  octagonal  fountain.  The 
interior,  tastelessly  painted  in  the  Turkish  rococo  style  in  the 
18th  cent.,  is  a  simplified  imitation  of  the  Aya  Sophia. 

To  the  N.  of  the  mosque  the  Serasker  Kapu,  the  modern 
S.  gateway,  leads  into  the  court,  now  a  drilling-ground,  of  the 
Seraskerat  (PL  F,  G,  5;  or  ministry  of  war).  Here  once  stood  the 
Evki- Serai,  the  oldest  palace  of  the  sultans  (comp.  p.  546).  The 
*Serasker  Tower  (closed  on  Frid. ;  fee  3-5  pias.),  about  200  ft. 
high,  built  by  Mahmud  II.  (d.  1839)  of  white  marble  from  the  island 
of  Marmara  (p.  535),  affords  a  magnificent  view  of  the  city. 


552     Route  81.  CONSTANTINOPLE.     Mosque  of  Suleiman. 

Behind  the  barracks  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Seraskerat,  or  by 
the  Serasker  Jaddesi  to  the  right,  we  descend  to  the  terrace  o'f  the 
Suleiman  Mosque,  which  is  surrounded  by  schools,  baths,  and  the 
Residence  of  tlie  Sheikh  ul-Islam. 

The  **Mosque  of  Suleiman  the  Great  (Turk.  SuM- 
manieh;  PI.  F,  G,  5),  erected  in  1550-66  by  the  Albanian  Sindn 
(MimarSinan  Agha),  ou  the  model  of  the  AyaSophia  and  the  Bayazid 
Mosque,  is  one  of  the  two  master-works  of  this  most  famous  cf 
Turkish  architects  (the  other  being  the  Selim  mosque  at  Adrian- 
ople).  The  superb  chief  portal  on  the  N.W.  side  is  three  stories  in 
height.  At  the  angles  of  the  forecourt  (63  by  49J/2  yds.)  rise  four 
minarets  of  unequal  height.  The  exterior  of  the  mosque  is  em- 
bellished with  two  arcades;  the  smaller  domes  are  charmingly 
grouped  round  the  great  dome;  the  latter,  only  85  ft.  in  diameter, 
is  loftier  than  that  of  Aya  Sophia. 

Notwithstanding  the  striped  decoration  with  which  it  was  marred 
at  the  time  of  the  restoration  under  Abdul  Aziz  (p.  550),  the  interior 
surpasses  all  the  other  mosques  of  Constantinople  in  harmony  of 
structure,  in  picturesqueness  of  perspective,  and  in  magnificence  of 
ornamentation,  but  is  unfortunately  badly  lighted.  Between  the 
four  pillars  of  the  dome,  on  each  side,  are  two  monolith  columns, 
29  ft.  high,  with  stalactite  capitals,  supporting  the  upper  stories  of 
the  aisles.  The  *Mihrab  Wall  is  enriched  with  beautiful  fayence 
tiles  and  with  stained  glass  by  Serkosh  Ibrahim. 

In  the  burial-ground  behind  the  mosque  rise  the  handsome 
Tilrbehs  of  Suleiman  (fee  5  pias.)  and  his  favourite  wife  Roxolana. 

From  the  outer  court  of  the  raosque,  with  its  fine  old  cypresses  and 
plane-trees,  we  may  descend  to  the  E.  to  Rustera  Pasha's  Mosque  (p.  545) 
and  the  New  Bridge  (p.  515) ;  or  we  may  go  to  the  N.W.  to  the  Old  Bridge 
(PI.  F,  G,  4;  p.  555;  toll  10  paras)  and  the  Rue  Iskander  (p.  513). 

Prom  the  W.  gate  of  the  Seraskerat,  or  from  the  W.  angle  of 
the  outer  court  of  the  Suleiman  mosque,  we  may  soon  reach  the 
two-storied  Aqueduct  of  Valens  (PI.  F,  E,  6,  5),  dating  from 
the  reign  of  that  emperor  (368  A.D.)  but  much  restored.  It  bridges 
the  space  between  the  fourth  and  third  hills  of  the  city. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  aqueduct,  near  the  scene  of  the  great  fire  of 
1908,  rises  the  Shahzadeh  Mosque  (PI.  E,  F,  5;  'prince's  mosque'), 
an  early  work  of  Sinan  (see  above),  erected  by  Suleiman  in  1543-7 
in  memory  of  his  son  Mohammed.  The  plan  is  similar  to  that  of  the 
Mehmedieh  (see  below).  It  is  charmingly  fitted  up  in  the  interior. 
In  the  two  tfirbehs  repose  the  princes  Mohammed  and  Jihangir  and 
the  princess  Mihrimah.  As  a  rule  the  muezzin  permits  visitors  to 
ascend  one  of  the  minarets  for  a  small  gratuity. 

From  this  mosque  the  Rue  Chahsade  Bachi  ascends  to  the  N.W. 
to  the  Mosque  of  Mohammed  II.  (PI.  D,  E,  4;  Mehmedieh  or 
Fatih  Jami;  comp.  p.  542),  the  holiest  in  Constantinople  after  that 
of  Eyiib  (p.  555).   It  was  built  by  the  Greek  Christodv.Jos  in  1463-9 


Mosque  of  Mohammed.     CONSTANTINOPLE.         9/.  Route.     553 

on  the  fonrth  hill  of  the  city,  on  the  site  and  with  the  materials 
of  the  Apostles'  Church.  This  church,  founded  by  Constantine,  had 
been  restored  by  Justinian  and  was  famous  as  the  burial-place  of 
the  emperors. 

The  outer  court,  planted  with  cypresses,  on  the  N.W.  side  of 
which  a  busy  market  is  held,  is  surrounded,  as  in  the  Byzantine 
age,  by  a  great  many  miscellaneous  buildings.  The  plan  of  the 
mosque  is  probably  the  same  as  that  of  the  Apostles'  Church.  The 
forecourt  is  commanded  by  two  minarets.  The  interior,  in  the  form 
of  a  Greek  cross,  has  four  half-domes  in  the  two  axes  adjoining  the 
central  dome,  four  smaller  corner-domes,  and  three  galleries.  The 
whole  building  was  modernized  after  the  earthquake  of  17G7. 

The  first  Tilrbeh  behind  the  mosque  is  that  of  'the  Conqueror'. 

From  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  outer  court  the  Sultan  Mehraed  and 
Sultan  Selim  streets  lead  to  the  N.  to  the  Mosque  of  Selim  I.  (PI.  E,  3; 
Turk.  Setimieh)  on  the  fifth  city-hill,  erected  by  Suleiman  the  Great  in 
1520-6  in  memory  of  his  warlike  father  Selim  I.  (p.  542).  This  is  the 
simplest  of  all  the  sultans'  mosques.  The  outer  walls  are  roofed  with  a 
single  semicircular  dome. 

To  the  S.  of  Mehmedieh,  between  the  fourth  city-hill  and  the  Lnjkos 
Valley,  among  the  ruins  caused  hy  a  fire,  rises  Jlarcian's  Column  (PI.  D, 
E.  5;  Turk.  Kiz  Tash,  maiden's  stone),  erected  in  honour  of  that  emperor 
(450-7). 

In  the  Lykoa  Valley,  to  the  S.W.  of  Marcian's  Column,  once  lay  the 
Barracks  of  the  Janissaries  (p.  550),  who  were  massacred  in  the  Et  Me'idan 
here  (PI.  I),  5;  'place  of  flesh')  alter  a  revolt  in  1826.  —  In  the  Ale  Serai 
quarter  (PI.  D,  E,  6),  on  the  ancient  triumphal  way  (p.  550),  lay  the  Roman 
Bimrium  (cattle-market).  The  road  ascended  thence  to  the  seventh 
city-hill.  Here,  in  the  quarter  now  called  Arret  Bazar,  is  still  seen  the 
pedestal  of  the  marble  Column  of  Arcadius  (PI.  D,  7;  Turk.  Avret  Tash, 
women's  stone),  the  sole  surviving  relic  of  the  forum  of  Arcadius. 

From  the  Mehmedieh  a  main  street  (carr.  5  pias.)  leads  direct 
in  1/4  hi\,  to  the  N.W.,  to  the  Edirneh  Kapn  (see  below). 

Beside  the  city-wall,  near  Rue  Edime  Ivapou,  is  the  sixth  and 
highest  city-hill,  on  which  rises  the  Mihrimah  Mosque  (PI.  C,  3), 
built  in  1556  by  Sinan  (p.  552)  for  the  princess  Mihrimah  (p.  545), 
on  the  site  of  the  Byzantine  monastery  of  St.  George,  and  restored 
in  1910. — From  the  Greek  Church  of  St.  Gtorye  we  walk  about 
250  paces  to  the  N.E.,  and  then  descend  to  the  right,  near  the  city- 
wall,  to  visit  the  — 

Kahrieh  Mosque  (PI.  C,  2),  once  the  church  of  the  monastery 
of  Chora  ('in  the  country'),  which  probably  existed  before  the  time 
of  Theodosins  II.  It  was  restored  in  the  11th  cent,  and  enlarged 
in  the  11th,  and  contains  famous  Byzantine  *Mosaics  (sacristan 
lives  near). 

We  now  turn  our  steps  to  the  ruinous  Edirneh  Kapu  (PI.  C,  2; 
Adrianople  Gate),  the  gate  of  Charisius  or  cemetery-gate  (Porta 
Polyandriu)  of  the  Byzantines. 

Outside  the  gate,  where  stretches  the  largest  Moslem  Cerneti-nj 
of  Stambnl,  we  obtain  an  excellent  view  of  the  old  *Land-Wali 


554     Route  81.  CONSTANTINOPLE.  Land-Wall. 

of  the  city,  over  4  M.  in  length.  The  chief  part  of  it  is  the  Tlieo- 
closian  Wall  (p.  541),  extending  from  the  Sea  of  Marmora  to  the 
Tekfur  Sera'i  (see  below).  This  was  originally  a  single  wall,  de- 
fended by  towers,  but  after  an  earthquake  in  447  it  was  doubled, 
the  two  walls  being  66  yds.  apart  and,  from  the  bottom  of  the  moat, 
100  ft.  high. 

The  S.  part  of  the  land-wall  may  be  visited  by  carriage  (one-horse  10, 
two-horse  10  or  lopias.;  bargaining  necessary)  from  the  Edirneli  Kapu. 
We  drive  past  Top  Kapu  (PI.  A,  4;  'cannon-gate'),  once  the  gate  of 
St.  Romanos,  famed  in  the  siege  of  1453,  to  Yedi  Kuleh  railway-station 
(PI.  A,  B,  9).  AVe  may  return  thence  to  the  town  by  local  train  (about 
every  '/s  ur-)>  or  from  the  Yedi  Kuleh  Gate  by  tramway  (No.  4;  change 
at  Ak  Serai,  p.  553),  or  from  Psamatia  Kapu  (PI.  B,  8)  by  local  steamer 
(p.  538). 

Near  the  S.  end  of  the  wall  rises  the  castle  of  Yedi  Kuleh.  (PI.  A,  9; 
'soven  towers' ;  adm.  except  Sun.  21/..  pias. ;  small  fee  to  lantern-bearer), 
rebuilt  by  Mohammed  II.,  within  which  is  the  dilapidated  Porta  Aurea 
('golden  gate'),  once  the  triumphal  gate  of  the  Byzantine  emperors.  —  On^ 
the  Sea  of  Marmora,  at  the  point  where  the  land-wall  joined  the  Marmora 
Sea  Wall,  rises  the  octagonal  Mermer  Kuleh  (PI.  A,  9;  'marble  tower'), 
the  sole  relic  of  a  castle  of  the  time  of  Emp.  Basil  II.  (976-1025). 

To  the  N.E.  of  the  Edirneh  Kapu,  beyond  the  Greek  Cemetery 
(PI.  0,  2),  the  Theodosian  city-wall  is  joined  by  the  single  but 
stronger  Wall  of  the  Blachernae  Quarter  ('marsh-land  quarter') 
This  wall  served  for  the  defence  of  the  famous  St.  Mary's  Church 
of  the  empress  Pulcheria  (ca.  450),  and  for  that  of  the  Blacherme 
Palace,  founded  at  the  end  of  the  5th  cent.,  which  in  the  12th  cent, 
became  the  imperial  residence  instead  of  the  older  palaces  in  the 
Angusteion  (p.  549).  The  wall  dates  partly  from  the  reigns  of  Emp. 
Heraklios  (610-41),  Leo  V.  (813-20),  and  Manuel  Comnenus  (1143- 
80),  but  was  largely  rebuilt  in  the  14th  and  15th  centuries. 

The  ruined  Byzantine  palace  rising  above  the  town-wall  near  the 
small  Kerkoporta  (PI.  C,  2),  the  so-called  Tekfur  Serai  ('emperor's 
palace'),  was  probably  founded  by  Constantine  VII.  Porphyrogenetos 
(912-59).  Of  the  Blachernae  Palace  itself  the  foundations  are 
still  traceable  between  the  Egri  Kapu  (PI.  C,  1 ;  once  Porta  Kali- 
garia)  and  the  Aivas  Effendi  Mosque.  To  the  old  terrace  of  the 
palace  belonged  the  massive  Towers  of  Isaak  Angelos  and  Anemas 
(PI.  0,  1). 

On  the  N.  side  the  land-walls  end  with  the  picturesque  castle 
of  Brachionon  or  Penlajiyrgion,  answering  to  the  Yedi  Kuleh  on 
the  S.  side.  It  lies  between  the  inner  and  the  site  of  the  outer 
Blachernae  gate.  Near  it  are  buried  the  Arabs  who  fell  in  678 
(p.  541). 

From  the  Aivan  Serai  Kapu  (PL  D,  1),  which  belongs  to  the 
old  Sea  Wall  on  the  Golden  Horn  (p.  541),  a  broad  road  to  the 
left  (N.W.)  leads  through  the  suburb  of  Ortakjilar  (PI.  B,  C,  1)  to 
(8/4  M.)  Eyiib  (p.  555).  Straight  on,  we  soon  reach  the  Aivan  Serai 
pier  (p.  555). 


Golden  Horn.  CONSTANTINOPLE.  81.  Route.     555 

c.  The  Golden  Horn. 

By  Caique  (p.  538)  from  the  New  Bridge  to  Eyiib  about  1  hr.,  to  the 
Sweet  Waters  l'/r2  hrs.  (there  and  back  20-25  pias.).  The  row  back  is  par- 
ticularly fine  towards  sunset. —  Steamboat  (p.  538)  to  Eyiib  in  8/4  hr., 
thence  to  the  Sweet  Waters  20  min. 

Tbe  Golden  Horn,  already  named  Chrysokeras  by  the  Greeks, 
an  arm  of  the  sea  4'/2  M.  long  and  at  the  widest  point  x/2  M.  across, 
probably  a  submerged  side-valley  of  the  Bosporus,  is  one  of  the 
finest  natural  harbours  in  the  world.  In  the  Byzantine  period  it 
was  closed  for  defensive  purposes  by  a  chain.  It  consists  of  the 
Outer  Commercial  Harbour  (PI.  H,  I,  4,  5),  with  the  Galata  Quay 
(p.  543)  and  the  new  quays  on  the  Stambul  side,  the  Inner  Com- 
mercial Harbour  (PI.  G,  H,  4),  between  the  two  bridges,  and  the 
Naval  Harbour  (PI.  E-G,  2,  3). 

The  voyager  on  the  Golden  Horn  is  chiefly  struck  with  the 
busy  harbour  scenes  and  the  picturesque  appearance  of  the  crowd- 
ed Oriental  quarters  rising  from  the  banks.  Starting  from  the 
New  Bridge  (PI.  H,  4)  the  steamer  crosses  the  inner  commercial 
harbour  to  the  pier  of  Yemish  Iskelesi  (PI.  G,  4)  at  Stambul,  at  the 
foot  of  the  terrace  of  the  Suleiman  Mosque,  and  then  passes  under 
the  Old  Bridge  (PI.  F,  G,  4;  p.  552)  into  the  naval  harbour.  On  the 
Stambul  side  it  first  calls  at  the  piers  of  Jubali  Kapu  and  Aya 
Ka]Ju  (PI.  F,  3),  the  latter  lying  below  Selim's  Mosque  (p.  553). 

Next,  on  the  same  side,  are  the  piers  of  Phanar  (PI.  E,  2),  the 
Greek  quarter,  where  a  terrible  massacre  took  place  in  1821,  and 
Balat  (PI.  D,  2).  the  largest  Jewish  quarter. 

On  the  opposite  bank,  from  the  Old  Bridge  onwards,  lie  the 
dockyard  buildings.  On  the  bay  of  Kaslm  Pasha  (calling-place 
of  some  of  the  steamboats)  is  the  Ministry  of  Marine  (Divan 
Haneh;  PI.  G,2, 3),  with  its  surrounding  barracks,  workshops,  and 
docks.    In  front  of  it  are  anchored  men-of-war  and  guard-ships. 

The  steamer  next  touches  at  Ters  Haneh  (PI.  E,  2),  on  the  E. 
bank,  at  the  end  of  the  dockyard,  and  at  the  Jewish  quarter  of 
Haskioi  (Has  Keul';  PI.  E,  1);  then,  on  the  W.  bank,  at  Aivan  Serai 
(PI.  D,  1;  p.  554),  where  we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  N.E.  end  of  the 
land-walls  and  the  beginning  of  the  sea-wall  on  the  Golden  Horn; 
then,  on  the  E.  bank,  at  Kalijeh  Oylu,  and  on  the  W.  bank  atDefter- 
dar  Iskelesi  (PI.  0,  1)  and  Eyub  (see  inset  plans  in  Plan  of  City). 

In  the  suburb  of  *Eyub,  a  few  minutes'  walk  from  the  pier,  is 
the  famous  Mosque  of  Eyub,  where  the  ceremony  of  girding  each 
new  sultan  with  the  sword  takes  place.  It  was  built  of  white  marble 
by  Mohammed  II.,  the  Conqueror,  in  1459,  adjacent  to  the  tiirbeh  of 
Abu  Eyiib  Ensari,  the  legendary  standard-bearer  of  the  prophet, 
whose  tomb  here  was  revealed  in  a  vision  a  few  days  after  the  con- 
quest. The  spot  is  so  revered  by  the  Moslems  that  until  now  no 
Christian  dared  set  foot  even  in  the  outer  court.  Since  the  estab- 
lishment of  the  new  Turkish  government,  however,  visitors  may 

Baedeker's  Mediterranean.  36 


556     Route  81  CONSTANTINOPLE.  Scutari. 

enter  the  deeply  impressive  court  and  even  the  mosque  itself,  but 
they  should  be  careful  not  to  remain  standing  between  the  railings 
in  the  centre  of  the  court  and  the  gilded  windows  on  the  wall-side. 

Prom  the  mosque,  up  the  hill-side  to  the  N.E.,  extends  the  pic- 
turesque Cemetery,  with  its  venerable  cypresses.  A  path  ascends 
from  the  mosque,  past  a  monastery  (Tekkeh)  of  the  dancing  der- 
vishes (p.  543),  to  the  top,  where  we  have  a  splendid  *View  of 
both  banks  of  the  Golden  Horn. 

From  Eyiib  a  smaller  local  steamer  plies  through  the  Stambul  Liman, 
the  shallow  N.W.  arm  of  the  Golden  Horn,  Vfa  M.  long,  to  Kiathaneh,  or 
Kiahat  Eaneh;  this  trip,  on  Fridays  or  Sundays  in  spring,  affords  an 
interesting  picture  of  Turkish  life.  At  Kiathaneh  two  streams  fall  into  the 
Golden  Horn,  the  so-called  Sweet  "Waters  of  Europe  (the  Asiatic 
waters,  see  p.  558),  or  Eaux  Donees.  The  eastmost  is  the  Kiathaneh 
Suyu,  in  the  valley  of  which,  about  l:/4  M.  up,  is  a  chateau  of  the  sultan, 
the  most  popular  holiday  resort  of  the  citizens  of  Constantinople.  In  the 
meadows,  under  shady  trees,  are  erected  huts  and  arbours,  where  music 
and  amusements  of  all  kinds  are  provided.  The  Moslems  enjoy  themselves 
sedately  here  on  Fridays;  the  Christians  come  on  Sundays;  hither  too 
the  people  of  fashion  ride  or  drive.  Shortly  before  sunset  a  whole  flotilla 
of  boats  on  the  Golden  Horn  returns  home  to  the  city. 

d.  Scutari. 

Steam  Ferry  Boats  from  the  New  Bridge  (see  p.  538)  and  Beshiktash 
to  Scutari.  Those  from  the  New  Bridge  to  the  minor  stations  Salajak, 
near  the  Leander  tower,  and  Harem-Iskelesi,  below  the  Selimieh  Barracks 
(p.  536),  are  less  frequent  and  are  seldom  used  by  strangers.  —  Carriages 
have  the  same  tariff  as  in  the  city  (p.  538).  Drive  from  the  pier  to  the  Cham- 
lija  Spring  and  back  via  the  Great  Cemetery  (about  2Va  hrs.)  l1/^  mejidiehs 
(30  pias.). — Horse  to  the  Bulgurlu  about  1  mej. 

The  steamer  leaves  the  Seraglio  Point  on  the  right  and  steers 
to  the  E.  to  (1/i  hr.)  the  chief  landing-place  at  Scutari,  which  lies 
on  the  Asiatic  shore,  in  a  hay  to  the  N.  of  the  promontory.  To  the 
right,  off  the  end  of  the  promontory,  is  a  flat  islet  on  which  rises 
the  so-called  Leander 's  Tower  (by  the  Turks  named  Kiz  Kulesi, 
i.e.  maiden's  tower,  from  the  legend  that  a  sultan's  daughter  was 
once  kept  here),  with  a  signalling  station  and  lights. 

Scutari  (no  European  inns) ,  Turk,  tlskiidar,  the  ancient 
Chrysopolis,  the  harbour  of  Chalcedon  (p.  536),  now  a  large  suburb 
of  Constantinople,  contains  90,000  inhab.,  comparatively  few  of 
whom  are  Armenians  and  Greeks.  Its  fine  old  mosques,  its  crooked 
streets,  and  its  small  timber  houses  give  it  a  more  Oriental  char- 
acter than  Stambul.  Until  a  century  ago  Scutari  was  the  terminus 
of  the  caravan-routes  from  Asia  Minor,  by  which  the  treasures  of 
the  East  were  brought  to  Constantinople.  It  is  still  the  starting- 
point  of  the  sacred  annual  Mecca  caravan. 

Prom  the  pier  we  follow  the  broad  main  street  past  the  Bilyiik 
Jami  ('Great  Mosque';  1547),  on  the  left,  and  the  Yeni  Valideh 
Jami  (1707-10),  on  the  right,  beyond  which  a  road  to  the  right 
diverges  to  the  Dervishes'  Monastery  and  the  Great  Cemetery. 


36* 


M   E  R      I)  E      M  A  U   M  A  R  A 


-v 

U«<     ''  os     p 

V'- 

Prfnkip 

'■-—'•  -  '  •  • 

# 

Bosporus.  CONSTANTINOPLE.  81.  Route.     557 

The  street,  inclining  to  the  left,  next  leads  to  the  quarters  of 
Yeni  Mahalleh,  with  an  Armenian  cemetery,  and  Baglar  Bashi; 
then,  past  villas,  to  the  village  of  Bulgurlukioi.  Before  the  village 
is  reached  a  road  to  the  left  leads  to  (2  M.  from  the  pier)  the 
Chamlija  Spring,  shaded  by  great  plane-trees,  a  favourite  Friday 
and  Sunday  resort  like  the  Sweet  Waters  (p.  556). 

"We  may  thence  ascend  (to  the  N.,  1ji  hr.)  the  Great  Bulgurlu 
or  Biiytik  Chamlija  (879  ft.;  small  cafe,  bargaining  necessary), 
which,  in  the  forenoon  especially,  affords  a  superb  *View  of  Con- 
stantinople, the  Bosporus,  and  the  Sea  of  Marmora. 

On  the  way  back  we  turn  to  the  left,  skirting  the  Armenian 
cemetery,  to  visit  the  *Great  Cemetery  (Biiytik  Mezaristan),  the 
largest  Moslem  burial-ground  in  the  East.  The  lower  road  througli 
it  leads  to  the  N.  to  the  Monastery  of  the  Hoivling  Dervishes  (Rufai' 
Tekkeh;  no  admittance). 

To  the  S.  of  the  Great  Cemetery  lies  Haidar  Pasha  (p.  536), 
with  a  large  Military  Hospital,  where  Florence  Nightingale  (1820- 
1910)  first  devoted  herself  to  her  philanthropic  work.  Adjoining  the 
Hospital  is  the  British  Cemetery,  containing  a  tall  granite  Obelisk 
in  memory  of  the  British  who  fell  in  the  Crimean  war. 

e.  The  Bosporus. 

Local  Steameus  (p.  538),  with  17  stations  on  the  European  side  and 
12  on  the  Asiatic,  never  all  touched  at  on  the  same  voyage.  To  Rumeli 
Kavdk,  the  northmost  station  on  the  "W.  shore,  in  2  hrs.,  5  (in  summer  6) 
steamers  only.  From  any  station  it  is  easy  to  ferry  to  the  opposite  shore 
(5-10  pias.). 

The  Thracian  *Bosporus  (;ox-ford',  from  the  Greek  myth  that 
Io  swam  in  the  shape  of  a  cow  from  Asia  to  Europe),  Tnrk.  Kara 
Denis  Boghaz  or  Stambul  Boghaz  (Black  Sea  or  Stambul  Straits), 
which,  like  the  Dardanelles  (p.  534),  was  formed  by  the  subsidence 
of  a  river-valley  in  the  tertiary  period  (comp.  p.  xxxiv),  connects  the 
Sea  of  Marmora  with  the  Black  Sea.  Length  20  M.,  breadth  about 
2  M.,  average  depth  89  ft.  (greatest  about  395  ft.).  A  surface- 
stream,  quickened  by  the  prevailing  N.E.  winds,  and  consisting 
of  the  fresher  water  of  the  Black  Sea,  fed  by  its  copious  rivers, 
constantly  pours  through  the  straits  towards  the  Mediterranean, 
while  the  salter  and  heavier  water  of  the  latter  flows  in  the  opposite 
direction  in  a  strong  under-current  into  the  Black  Sea.  The  steep 
hills  of  the  N.  part,  as  far  as  Rumeli  Kavak,  consist  of  erup- 
tive rock,  basalt,  dolerite,  and  trachyte;  in  the  S.  part  the  prevail- 
ing formations  are  Devonian,  clay-slate,  greywacke,  quarzite,  and 
limestone.    The  peninsula  of  Stambul  is  of  the  iniocene  formation. 

A  trip  on  the  Bosporus  affords  a  highly  picturesque  and  varied 
panorama  of  the  scenery  on  its  banks,  and  on  the  way  back  we 
suddenly  obtain  a  striking  view  of  the  great  city  and  its  suburbs. 

36* 


558     Route  81. 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


Bosporus. 


The  more  important  places  only  are  named  below.    (L.  signifies 
landing-place  or  pier.) 


West  Bank. 

Galata  Quay  and  Top  Ha- 
nehj  see  pp.  543,  544. 

Dolma  Bagcheh  (p.  544), 
with  theSera'ioi  that  name,  built 
by  Abdul  Mejid  in  1850-5  in  the 
overladen  'Turkish  Renaissance' 
style,  now  the  residence  of  Mo- 
hammed V. ;  the  facade  on  the 
Bosporus  is  over  700  yds.  long; 
in  the  lofty  central  building  is 
the  huge  throne-room. 

Beyond  Beshiktash  (p.  544; 
L.)  are  the  ruins  of  the  Chira- 
gan  Serai,  a  similar  palace, 
which  was  burnt  down  in  1910. 

At  Ortakidi  (L.),  a  suburb 
with  beautiful  gardens  and  a 
pretty  mosque  (1870),  the  city 
is  seen  astern  for  the  last  time. 

We  round  a  headland  and 
next  come  to  the  villages  of  Kuru 
Cheshmeh  (L.)  and  Arnautkidi 
(L.).  The  latter  lies  on  the  Akinti 
Burnu,  a  headland  swept  by  a 
strong  current. 

Bebek  (L.),  on  a  beautiful 
bay,  with  villas  (yali)  of  wealthy 
Turks,  an  English  and  American 
summer  resort.  On  the  hill  to 
the  N.  is  the  Robert  College,  an 
American  institution  founded  in 
1863. 

Above  the  cypresses  of  an 
old  cemetery  rise  the  pic- 
turesque towers  and  walls  of 
Rumeli  Hissar  (L.;  'European 
castle'),  built  by  Mohammed  II. 
in  1452,  shortly  before  the  siege 
of  Constantinople  (p.  542),  to 
command  the  narrowest  part  of 


East  Bank. 

Leander's  Tower  and  Scu- 
tari, see  p.  556. 


Knskunjuk  (L.),  a  Jewish 
village,  separated  from  Scutari 
by  alowhill,  wasalmostentirely 
destroyed  by  a  disastrous  fire  in 
Feb.  1911.     ■ 

Beylerbey(L.).  The  Beyler- 
bey  Serai,  built  by  Abdul  Aziz 
in  1865,  is  the  most  tasteful 
sultan's  palace  on  the  Bosporus. 

Chengelkioi  (L.)  and  Vani- 
kioi  (L.),  where  we  lose  sight 
of  Stambul.  We  next  pass  Top 
Dagh  (427  ft.;  'cannon-hill'), 
famed  for  its  view  of  the  whole 
of  the  Bosporus.  Kandili  (L.) 
lies  on  a  headland  opposite  the 
bay  of  Bebek. 

Between  Kandili  and  Anatoli 
Hissar  (see  below)  opens  the  Valley 
of  the  Sweet  Waters  of  Asia,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  BUytik  (great)  and 
Kiichttk  (little)  Gok  Su,  a  favourite 
Friday  resort  of  Moslem  excursion- 
ists in  summer. 

Anatoli  Hissar  (L. ;  'Asiatic 
Castle'),  or  Giizel  Hissar  ('beau- 
tiful castle'),  the  picturesque 
castle  by  the  sea,  which  gives 
its  name  to  the  village,  was 
erected  by  Bayazid  I.  in  1393 
as  an  outwork  against  Byzan- 
tium. 


Botporut. 


CONSTANTIKOlM.K. 


St.  Route.     559 


West  Bank. 
the  Bosporus   (722  yds.  only). 
Here,  too,  the  current  {she'itan 
ullntisi,  'Satan's  stream')  is  at 
its  strongest. 

Beyond  Em  ivy  la  n(L.)  come 
the  palaces  built  by  Ismail,  khe- 
dive  of  Egypt  (d.  1895 ;  p.  444). 

Stenia  (L.),  in  a  deep  and 
sheltered  bay,  and  Yenikioi 
(L. ;  Greek  Neochoi'i),  both  in- 
habited chiefly  by  Greeks  and 
Armenians.  At  the  N.  end  of  the 
headland  are  the  summer  seats 
of  the  American  and  Austrian 
ambassadors. 

Therapia  (L. ;  Summer  Pal- 
ace Hot. ;  Hot.  Tokatlian,  etc. ; 
pop.  5000),  a  large  and  handsome 
village,  on  a  small  bay,  with 
cafes  by  the  sea  and  terraced 
gardens.  On  the  quay,  to  the 
N.  of  the  bay,  are  the  summer 
residences  of  the  British  (lofiy 
white  building),  French,  and 
Italian  ambassadors;  on  the  N. 
side  of  the  bay  is  that  of  the 
German  ambassador. 

Near  the  small  cape  Kiretsh 
Burnu,  with  its  battery  and 
beacon,  the  Black  Sea  becomes 
visible  in  the  distance. 

Biiyukdereh  (L. ;  H6t. 
Bellevue;  Hot.  d'Europe;  Hot. 
Platane,  etc.;  pop  6000)  is  one 
of  the  most  frequented  summer 
resorts  of  the  wealthy  Euro- 
peans of  Constantinople,  with 
handsome  houses  in  the  N.  part. 
The  Bay  of  Biiyukdereh  ('great 
valley')  forms  the  broadest  part 
of  the  Bosporus  (2  M.). 

At  the  N.  end  of  the  bay  are 
Mezair  Burnu  (L.),  a  small 
village,  and  Yeni  Mahalleh,  at 
the  month  of  the  'rose  valley', 


East  Bank. 


Kanlija  (L.),  on  a  small 
headland  (beacon). 

Chibukli,  on  the  Bay  of 
Be'ikos,  where  the  British  and 
French  fleets  met  for  the  Cri- 
mean war.  At  the  head  of  the 
bay,  beyond  Pasha  Bagcheh 
(L.)  lies  Beikos,  usually  the 
northmost  steamboat  station. 

From  Be'ikos  we  may  ascend 
the  Giant's  Mt.  or  Yusha  Dagh 
(640  ft.;  'Mt.  Joshua'),  an  important 
landmark  for  ships  coming  from  the 
Black  Sea.  The  road  to  it  (1  hr. ; 
carr.  Vgrnej.)  ascends  past  the  pa- 
lace of  Mohammed  Ah  Pasha  and 
through  the  grassy,  well-wooded, 
and  well-watered  valley  of  Hunkiar 
Iskelcsi,  once  a  favourite  country 
seat  of  the  Byzantine  emperors 
and  the  sultans.  On  the  top  are  a 
mosque,  the  'tomb  of  the  giant 
Joshua',  and  a  small  cafe".  *View 
over  the  whole  Bosporus,  but  Con- 
stantinople is  hidden. 

The  steamers  plying  beyond 
Beikos  proceed  thence  straight 
across  the  Bosporus  to  Yenikioi 
(see  above)  on  the  European 
shore,  where  corresponding  with 
them  there  are  generally  steam- 
boats plying  via  Therapia  (see 
above)  to  Mezar  Burnu  (see 
below)  and  to  Rumeli  Kavak 
(p.  560).  Thence  they  go  on  to 
the  last  station  on  the  Asiatic 
shore  — 


560     Route  81. 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


West  Bank. 
the  terminus    of  most   of   the 
steamers. 

Five  or  six  boats  only  go 
on,  passing  the  ruinous  fort 
Telli  Tabia  and  the  Dikili 
Cliffs,  to  Rumelf  Kavak,  a 
village  near  a  fortress  built  by 
Murad  IV.  in  1628  and  restored 
in  1890.  The  walls  of  the  ruined 
Byzantine  castle  of  Imros  Ka- 
lesi, on  a  hill  to  the  N.,  once  ex- 
tending down  to  the  sea,  were 
prolonged  by  moles,  like  those 
of  Yoros  Kalesi  opposite,  so  that 
a  chain  could  be  carried  across. 

At  the  N.  end  of  the  Bos- 
porus the  banks,  which  bristle 
with  forts  and  batteries,  consist 
of  almost  perpendicular  basaltic 
rock,  above  which  runs  a  hill- 
path.  Between  Rumeli  Kavak 
and  the  headland  Karibjeh  Ka- 
lesi the  little  bay  of  Biiyiik 
Liman  offers  the  first  refnge  to 
vessels  of  slight  draught  com- 
ing from  the  N. 


The  Bosporus  now  expands 
at  its  N.  entrance  to  23/4M.,near 
Rumeli  Fanar,  a  Greek  vil- 
lage (Fenerkioi  or  Fanar aki), 
with  a  lighthouse  and  a  strong 
fortress  on  the  rock  to  the  N.  of 
the  bay.  To  the  E.  rise  a  number 
of  dark  basaltic  cliffs,  the  Cyan- 
ean  Islands  or  Symplegades 
(i.e.  the  rocks  which,  according 
to  the  ancient  tradition,  'clash 
together'),  between  which  Jason 
had  to  pass  on  the  Argonautic 
expedition. 


East  Bank. 


Anatoli  Kavak,  a  gen- 
uine Turkish  village,  lying  on 
the  Majar  Bay  between  two 
strongly  fortified  headlands.  On 
the  N.  headland  rises  also  the 
picturesque  ruin  of  the  Byzan- 
tine castle  of  Yoros  Kalesi, 
called  the  Genoese  Castle  since 
the  14th  century.  In  ancient 
times  the  headland  and  the 
strait,  one  of  the  narrowest  parts 
of  the  Bosporus,  were  named 
Hieron  (sanctuary)  after  the 
altar  of  the  twelve  gods,  where 
Jason  is  said  once  to  have  sacri- 
ficed, and  after  a  temple  of  Zeus 
Urios,  the  dispenser  of  favour- 
able winds. 

In  the  Majar  Bay  vessels 
coming  from  the  Black  Sea  have 
to  show  their  papers  before 
entering  the  Bosporus.  Then 
comes  Kechili  Bay,  bounded  on 
the  N.  by  the  cape  Fil  Burnu, 
and  defended  by  a  fort,  as  is  also 
the  Poiras  Burnu,  a  little  far- 
ther to  the  N.E. 

Next,  on  the  rocky  coast, 
are  the  village  and  beyond  it  the 
low  cape  of  Anatoli  Fanar, 
with  the  Anatolian  lighthouse 
and  a  fort  rising  above  it. 

Farther  on  are  Kabakos 
Bay,  in  the  basaltic  rocks  of 
which  nestle  countless  sea-fowl, 
and,  at  the  N.  mouth  of  the  Bos- 
porus, the  abrupt  Yum  Burnu, 
with  a  battery  and  rescue-station 
for  the  shipwrecked. 


IX.  THE  BLACK  SEA. 


Route  Page 

82.  From  Constantinople  to  Constanlza 561 

83.  From  Constantinople  to  Odessa 563 

84.  From  Odessa  to  Batnm 568 

Yalta,  569. 

85.  From  Batnm  to  Constantinople 571 


The  Black  Sea  (Turk.  Kara  Denis;  Russ.  Chornoye  More; 
p.  xxxiv),  the  Pontus  Euxinus  of  the  ancients,  sometimes  deserves 
its  name  for  the  dark-blue  hue  of  its  waters,  which  is  markedly 
different  from  the  blue  of  the  Mediterranean.  Its  area,  nearly 
equal  to  that  of  the  Baltic,  amounts  to  163,689  sq.  M.,  without 
including  the  14,519  sq.  M.  of  the  Sea  of  Azov  (p.  xxxiv)  which  is 
united  with  the  Black  Sea  by  the  narrow  Straits  of  Kertch  (p.  570) 
and  separated  from  the  shallow  Gulf  of  Odessa  (p.  564)  by  the 
Crimean  Peninsula.  The  basin  proper  of  the  Black  Sea  is  a  huge 
depression,  falling  away  rapidly  from  its  margin  to  its  centre, 
where  it  reaches  a  depth  of  ca.  7365  ft.  Its  flow  and  ebb  are  not 
perceptible.  Owing  to  the  great  rivers  it  receives  its  surface-water 
is  but  slightly  salt  (1.8  per  cent),  but  the  deep  water  is  more 
saline  (2.2  to  2.3  per  cent).  The  bottom  is  coated  with  black  mud 
impregnated  with  sulphuretted  hydrogen  and  is  therefore  entirely 
destitute  of  animal  life.  On  warm  summer  nights  the  phosphores- 
cence of  the  water  is  very  observable.  As  in  the  Mediterranean, 
the  vessels  are  often  followed  by  dolphins. 

During  almost  the  whole  of  summer  gentle  N.  and  N.E.  winds, 
with  a  clear  sky,  prevail  in  the  S.W.  part  of  the  Black  Sea.  At 
other  seasons  the  wind  is  very  variable.  The  N.W.  and  W.  winds 
often  bring  fog,  which  makes  the  entrance  of  the  Bosporus  difficult. 
In  winter  and  about  the  time  of  the  equinox  dangerous  storms 
from  the  S.  and  S.E.  are  by  no  means  rare. 


82.   From  Constantinople  to  Constantza. 

22d  M.  Steamboats  (agents  at  Constantinople,  see  pp.  538,  539;  at  Con- 
stantza, see  p.  563).  1.  Royal  Rumanian  State  Maritime  Service  (Servi- 
ciul  Maritim  Roman;  in  correspondence  with  the  North  German  Lloyd; 
comp.  R.  76),  from  Constantinople  on  Tues.  and  Sat.  aft.  in  14  hrs.  (from 


562     Route  82.  BURGAS.  From  Constantinople 

Constantza  on  Sun.  and  Thnrs.  night  in  12  hr8.;  comp.  p.  563);  fare  55  or 
35  fr.  —  2.  Amtrian  Lloyd  (for  Odessa  and  Nikolayev)  from  Constantinople 
every  other  Sat.  aft.  via  Burgas  (from  Constantza  on  Thurs.  night  via, 
Varna),  in  about  l'/2  days  (fare  51  fr.,  20  fr. ;  in  the  reverse  direction  44  fr., 
20  fr.);  also  by  Line  Braila  B,  from  Constantinople  every  other  Frid.  aft. 
via.  Varna,  in  2  days  (from  Constantza  direct  to  Constantinople  Wed.  aft., 
in  19  hrs.);  fare  58  (back,  4fi)  or  25  fr.  (without  food  in  2nd  cabin). — 
3.  Societa  Xazionale,  Line  XIII  (for  Braila),  from  Constantinople  Sun.  aft. 
(from  Constantza  Mon.  aft.),  in  17  hrs.  (fare  40  or  28  fr.). 

For  Constantinople  and  the  voyage  through  the  Bosporus,  see 
p.  536  and  pp.  557-560. 

The  Rumanian  and  Italian  vessels  pursue  a  N.  course  through 
the  Black  Sea,  long  affording  fine  retrospects  of  the  precipitous 
shores  of  Anatolia  and  the  fissured  promontories  of  the  Rume- 
lian  coast. 

Steering  to  theN.W.  the  Odessa  steamer  of  the  Austrian  Lloyd 
reaches  the  open  sea  off  Rumell  Fanar  (p.  560).  It  again,  how- 
ever, approaches  the  Rumelian  coast  abreast  of  Cape  Iniada 
(Turk.  Kuru  Burnu),  the  Thynias  Promontorium  of  the  ancients. 

Beyond  the  far-projecting  Cape  Kuratan  or  Zeitun  Burnu 
(lights),  belonging  to  £.  Bulgaria  (formerly  E.  Rumelia),  opens 
the  wide  Gulf"  of  Burgas.  We  pass  the  peninsula  of  Sozopolis 
and  the  lighthouses  of  the  islands  of  Megalo  Nisi  and  Anastasia, 
and  enter  the  Bay  of  Burgas,  which  runs  deeply  into  the  land 
from  the  middle  of  the  gulf. 

Burgas  (Hot.  Commercial,  etc.),  the  modern  Greek  Pyrgos, 
is  the  chief  harbour  of  S.  Bulgaria  (11,700  inhab.)  and  lies  at  the 
head  of  the  bay  between  large  lagoons.  The  harbour  is  tolerably 
sheltered  from  the  E.  wind  by  two  moles.  The  chief  exports  are 
grain  and  attar  of  roses. 

In  continuing  our  voyage  we  pass  the  peninsula  of  Mesembriya 
(the  ancient  Mesembria)  and  Cape  Emine  (lighthouse),  the  N.  horn 
of  the  Bay  of  Burgas,  forming  a  spur  of  the  well-wooded  Little 
Balkan  Range,  the  old  frontier  between  E.  Rumelia  and  Bulgaria. 

On  the  N.  margin  of  the  Balkan  Mts.  lies  Varna,  the  ancient 
Odessos,  now  the  chief  seaport  of  Bulgaria  (pop.  35,000),  where 
some  of  the  Austrian  Lloyd  steamers  call.  The  entrance  to  the 
bay  of  Varna,  open  towards  the  E.,  is  bounded  on  the  S.  by  Cape 
Galata  (Galata  Burnu;  lighthouse)  and  on  the  N.  by  Cape  St. 
George.  The  anchorage,  between  two  long  moles,  is  similar  to  that 
of  Burgas.    The  Devna  Canal  connects  the  bay  with  Lake  Devna. 

Farther  on  the  steamer  rounds  Cape  Kaliakra  (Turk.  Chiliga 
Burnu;  lighthouse),  jutting  far  to  the  S.,  and  rejoins  the  course 
of  the  direct  steamer  from  the  Bosporus  to  Constantza.  Next  comes 
Cape  Shabla  (lights),  10-12  M.  to  the  N.  of  which  lies  the  village 
of  Ilanjik,  on  the  border  between  Bulgaria  and  the  Rumanian 
Dobruja.    At  night  the  position  of  the  flat  coast  is  revealed  by 


to  Constantza.  CONSTANTZA.  S2.  Route.      563 

the  lights  of  the  small  port  of  Mangalia  and  of  Cape  Tusla, 
stretching  in  front  of  the  lagoon  of  Mangalia. 

After  a  short  halt  in  the  open  roads  all  the  steamers  pass 
through  the  entrance  to  the  harbour  of  Constantza  and  moor  along- 
side the  quays  of  the  E.  mole.  The  landing-place  of  the  Rumanian 
mail-steamers  (see  below)  is  close  to  the  harbour-station. 

Constantza.  —  Hotels  (crowded  in  the  latter  half  of  Aug.  and  in 
Sept.).  Hot.  Carol  I.,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  headland,  of  the  first  class, 
with  garden,  R.  6-10,  B.  l>/»  ddj.  4,  D.  5  fr.  (lei);  Regina,  Raynier,  etc. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office,  to  the  E.  of  the  chief  railway-station; 
branch-office  at  the  harbour.  —  Cab  2  lei. 

Steamboat  Agencies.  Rumanian  State  Maritime  Service  (see  below), 
at  the  landing-stage;  Austrian  Lloyd,  H.  Rappaport;  Societa  Nazionale, 
E.  Tozzi. 

British  Vice-Consul,  Lionel  E.  Keyser.  —  Lloyd's  Agents,  Watson 
&  Yotiell. 

Constantza  (Rnman.  Constanta,  Turk.  Kiistenjeh),  a  seaport 
with  17,000  inhab.  and  in  summer  a  popular  Rumanian  seaside- 
resort  (see  below),  lies  on  a  small  tongue  of  land  rising  boldly 
from  the  sea  and  enclosing  with  the  E.  mole  (1500  yds.)  a  sickle- 
shaped  harbour.  The  latter,  which  is  always  free  from  ice,  is  not 
yet  quite  complete.  Beside  the  S.  mole  is  the  so-called  petroleum- 
harbour.  Petroleum,  agricultural  produce,  and  timber  are  the 
chief  exports. 

From  the  harbour-station  the  chief  promenade  of  the  town  leads 
past  the  Cathedral  (left)  and  the  new  Municipal  Casino  (right) 
to  the  Lighthouse  at  the  E.  end  of  the  promontory.  In  the  Piata 
Independentei  (Independence  Square),  at  the  narrowest  part  of  the 
peninsula,  rises  a  monument  to  Ovid,  who  died  in  exile  at  the 
neighbouring  Tomi  (afterwards  Constaniiana)  in  17  A.D. 

In  summer  there  is  a  train-service  to  (>/a  hr.)  Mamaia,  with  a  large 
bathing-establishment. 

The  sailings  (Sun.  &  Thuvs.)  and  arrivals  (Sun.  &  Wed.)  of  the  Ru- 
manian mail-boats  are  in  connection  with  the  arrivals  and  departures 
(at  aud  from  the  harbour-station)  of  the  Ostende -Vienna  Express,  the 
Berlin  Rapide,  and  the  Bukarest  Express. 

83.  From  Constantinople  to  Odessa. 

397  M.  Steamboats  (agents  at  Constantinople,  see  pp.  538,  539;  at 
Odessa,  p.  565).  1.  Xorth  German  Lloyd  (Mediterranean  &  Levant  Service, 
RR.  23,  24,  77,  80),  to  Odessa  (and  Batmn)  every  other  Sun.  eveuing  in 
l'/.j  days  (48  or  32  marks).  —  2.  Russian  Steam  Navigation  <£  Trading  Co.: 
(a)  by  the  direct  Alexandria  line  (p.  491)  from  Constantinople  Mon.  (from 
Odessa  Thurs.)  foren.,  in  29  his.  (80  or  50  fr.);  (b)  Two  circular  lines  to 
Syria  and  Egypt  (p.  4116).  each  every  other  Thurs.  or  Fiid.  aft.  (from  Odessa 
Sat.),  in  ca.  l'/a  clays  (same  fares);  (c)  Anatolian  Line  (p.  571)  from  Con- 
stantinople every  other  Sat.  (from  Odessa  Mon.)  aft.,  in  ca.  l'/»<lays  (68 
or  42  fr.,  without  food).  —  3.  Austrian  Lloyd  (Odessa  and  Nikolayev  Line) 
from  Constantinople  every  other  Sat.  aft.  vii  Burgas  (p.  562)  and  Con- 
stantza (see  above),  in  2>/j  days  (fares,  1st  class  78  fr.,  2nd  class,  without 
meals,  30  fr.).  On  the  return  trips  (3'/4  days)  the  boats  leave  Odessa  on 
Wed.  aft.  and  call  at  Constantza  and  Varna  (p.  562).  —4.  Societa  Nazionale, 


564     Route  83.  ODESSA.  Practical 

Lines  X  &  XI  (Genoa  to  Odessa),  from  Constantinople  Thiirs.  aft.  (from 
Odessa  Frid.  even.),  sometimes  calling  at  Burgas  or  Constantza,  in  ca. 
IV2  days  (fare  60  or  47  fr.).  —  5.  Mcssageries  Maritim.es  (Marseilles  to 
Odessa),  from  Constantinople  Mon.  (from  Odessa  Wed.)  in  3  days  (60  or  40  fr.). 
For  Russian  money,  see  p.  565.  —  Russian  time  is  that  of  B.  Europe 
(p.  537). 

For  Constantinople  and  the  voyage  through  the  Bosporus, 
see  p.  536  and  pp.  557-560. 

The  direct  boats  steer  to  the  N.N.E.  across  the  Black  Sea 
(p.  561)  all  the  way  to  the  Gulf  of  Odessa  (p.  xxxiv).  Opposite 
the  months  of  the  Danube  and  about  26  M.  from  the  coast-town 
of  Kilia  we  sight,  on  the  left,  the  Isle  of  Serpents  (Rnman.  Ins. 
Serpilor,  Greek  Fidonisi),  a  bare  islet  of  limestone  rock,  with  a 
lighthouse,  belonging  to  Rumania. 

The  flat  coast  of  Bessarabia,  with  its  numerous  lagoons  (Russ. 
I/iinan);  is  visible  only  in  clear  weather. 

On  the  Dniester  Liman,  or  great  lagoon  of  the  Dniester,  lie 
the  towns  of  Akkerman  (the  ancient  Tyras)  and  Ovidiopol  and 
the  lighthouse  at  the  mouth  of  the  Zaregrad,  beyond  which  we 
approach  the  abrupt  edge  of  the  great  steppe  of  S.  Russia,  which 
is  intersected  by  deep  defiles  known  as  Ovragi  or  Balki.  Important 
landmarks  are  the  Kovalevski  Tower,  once  the  water-tower  at 
Lustdorf  (p.  568),  and  the  lighthouses  on  the  promontory  of 
Bolshoi  Fontan,  at  the  Great  Fountain  (p.  568). 

Nearing  the  Harbour  of  Odessa  we  have  a  good  view  of  the 
whole  sea-front  of  the  city  and  of  the  series  of  villas  (datshas)  be- 
tween the  Great  Fountain  and  Cape  Lansheron.  The  steamer  passes 
the  Vorontsov  Lighthouse  on  the  outer  mole  (p.  566)  and  then 
anchors  in  the  'quarantine  harbour'. 

Odessa.  —  Arrival  by  Sea.'  The  examination  of  passports  and 
luggage,  which  not  even  the  passenger  bound  for  more  distant  places 
escapes,  occupies  a  considerable  time.  If  the  steamer  is  not  berthed  at 
the  quay  passengers  are  landed  by  small  boat  (40  copecks,  with  baggage 
50  cop.;  in  stormy  weather  60-75  cop.)  at  the  Platonovsky  Mole  (PI.  E, 
4,  5).  Passengers  going  straight  on  by  railway  should  take  a  cab  direct  to 
the  main  railway-station  (70  cop.,  with  pair  1  roub.  40  cop.,  incl.  luggage; 
see  p.  5G5). 

The  Main  Railway  Station  (Grande  Gare;  PI.  D,  7,  8)  is  the  ter- 
minus of  through  Express  Trains  from  Berlin  via  Oderberg,  Cracow, 
Lemberg,  Podvoloczyska,  and  Skmerinka  (41  hrs. ;  fare  130  or  82  marks) 
and  via  Alexandrovo,  Warsaw,  Brest,  Rovno,  Kasatin,  and  Shmerinka 
(42  hrs. ;  fare  122  marks  95  or  75  marks  90  pfennige),  and  from  Vienna  via 
Oderberg  and  Podvoloczyska  (35,l2hTs.). 

Hotels.  *London  (PI.  b;  D,  5),  Nikolayevsky  Bonl.  11,  with  sea-view, 
R.  from  21/3roub.,  B.  60  cop.,  dej.  (11-3)  1,  D.  (3-8)  2  roub.;  *St.  Peters- 
burg (PI.  c;  D,  4),  corner  of  Yekaterininskaya  and  Nikolayevsky  Boul., 
also  with  sea-view,  R.  from  2>/a,  B.  i/«,  dej.  (11-1)  3/4,  D.  (1-7)  IVj  roub.; 
*Bristol  (PL  i;  D,  5),  corner  of  Pushkinskaya  and  Kondratenko  Sts.,  R. 
11/2-15  roub.,  B.  60  cop.,  dej.  (11-2)  s/4,  D.  (1-8)  1-2  roub.;  *Yevropeiskaya 
(PI.  d;  D,  5),  Piishkinskaya4,  commercial,  R.  from  l>/g,  B.  72,  dej.  (11-1)  s/4, 
I).  (l-7)ll/,|i'oub.  —  H6t.  de  Paris  (Parishskaya;  PI.  f,  D  5),  Pushkinskaya  8; 
H6t.  Passage,  cor.  of  Deribiissovskaya  and  Preobrashenskaya  (PI.  0,  5),  etc. 


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Notes.  ODESSA.  83.  Route.     565 

Restaurants  at  the  *  London,  *Yevropeiskaya,  * Bristol,  and  tit. 
Petersburg  hotels;  also  Alexander  Park  (p.  568),  in  summer  only,  with 
beautiful  view;  Nikolayevsky  Boulevard  (p.  566;  in  summer),  d6j.  60  cop., 
D.  8/4-l  roub.;  Exchange  (p.  568),  D.  60  cop.;  Bruhns  (luncheon  rooms), 
Deribassovskaya  16  (in  the  court). 

Caf6s.  Fanconi,  corner  of  Yekaterininskaya  and  Deribassovskaya  (PI. 
D,  5;  newspapers);  Robinat,  Yekaterininskaya,  near  Nikolayevsky  Boul. 
(PI.  D,  5);  Liebmann,  corner  of  Preobrashenskaya  and  Deribassovskaya 
(PI.  C,  D,  5);  Palais  Royal,  Lansheronovskaya  (PI.  D,  5),  cafe-restaurant, 
D.  50  cop. 

Cabs  (Isv6shtshik).  To  the  Main  Railway  Station,  with  luggage, 
35  cop. ;  to  or  from  the  Quarantine  Harbour,  with  luggage,  70  cop. ;  drive 
in  the  town  20,  per  hour  50,  each  addit.  ]/a  hr.  25  cop.;  to  Lansher6n 
30  cop.;  to  the  Small,  to  the  Middle,  and  to  the  Great  Fountains  75  cop., 
1  roub.  10,  1  roub.  50  cop.  —  Carriage  and  Pair  ('phaeton')  cost  double 
the  above  mentioned  fares. 

Tramways  (hoist)  from  the  Main  Railway  Station  (PI.  D,  7)  through 
Rishelyevskaya,  Lansher6novskaya.  and  Khers6nskaya  to  the  Hospital 
(PI.  B,  C,  3) ;  from  the  Old  Churchyard  (PI.  C,  8)  to  a  point  below  the 
Voyenny-Spusk  (PI.  D,  4),  every  5  min. ;  from  corner  of  Preobrashe'n- 
skaya  and  Malaya  Arnaiitskaya  (PI.  C,  7)  to  the  Little  Fountain  (p.  568), 
every  10  min.  in  3/4  hr.  (with  branch  to  Arkadia) ;  from  corner  of 
Kandtnaya  and  Skdbelevskaya  (PL  E,  6)  to  Lansherdn  (p.  568),  every 
10  minutes.  —  Electric  Tramway  from  the  Greek  Bazaar  (PI.  2;  D,  5) 
to  Lansherdn  (p.  MS  ,  every  3  minutes.  —  Steam  Tramway  from 
Kulikdvo  Pule  (PI.  D,  8)  to  the  Great  Fountain  (p.  56S),  every  25  min.. 
in  3/4  hr.  (15  cop.  to  the  Middle  Fountain,  20  cop.  to  the  Great). 

General  Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  24;  C,  4,  5),  Sadovaya  8 
(poste  restante  upstairs,  to  the  left).    Foreign  letters  10,  post-cards  4  cop. 

Banks.  Imperial  (PI.  1;  D,  6),  Shukovskaya  9  (open  9.30-3);  Chayis, 
Rishelyevskaya;  Credit  Lyonnais,  corner  of  Rishelyevskaya  and  Lan- 
sheronovskaya (PL  D,  5;  10-4).  —  Money.  The  Russian  roubel,  divided 
into  100  copecks ,  is  worth  about  2s.  2d.  —  Money  Chakger.  Gruber, 
Deribassovskaya  (PL  D,  5). —  Booksellers.  Becker  &  Wedde,  Berndt, 
both  in  Deribassovskaya. 

Sea  Baths  at  Lansheron  (stony),  the  Fountains,  Arkadia,  Lustdorf 
(more  open  sea),  and  other  places. 

Consuls.  British  Consul-Genera],  Ch.  S.  Smith,  Kanatnaya  31.  — 
U.  S.  Consul,  J.  H.  Grotd,  same  street,  No.  33;  vice-consul,  A.  W.  Smith. 

Police  Headquarters,  Preobrashenskaya  38  (PL  23;  C,  5). 

Steamboat  Agents.  North  German  Lloyd  and  German  Levant  Line, 
MoNabb,  Rougier,  &  Co.;  Russian  Steam  Navigation  &  Trading  Co., 
Lansheronowskaya  5;  Austrian  Lloyd,  Regir;  SocieUX  Nazionale,  vitale 
&  Gallian;  Messageries  Maritimes,  C.  Muntz. 

Theatres.  Town  Theatre  (PL  29;  D,  5),  Theatre  Square,  operas  and 
dramas;  Sibiryakdv  Theatre  ('Theatre';  PL  0,  4),  coiner  of  Khersonskay;i 
and  K6nnaya,  for  operas  and  plays.  —  Pleasure  Resorts.  Hot.duNord; 
Alexander  Park  (p.  568);  Arkadia  (p.  568);  Little  Fountain  (p.  568).— 
Circus  Truzzi  (PL  4;  0,  4),  also  a  theatre  of  varieties.  —  Enqlish  Club 
(PL  6;  D,  5). 

English  Church,  Remeslennaya  15  (PL  D,  6,  7). 

Sights  (one  day  or  less).  Nikolayevsky  Boulevard  and  Monument 
of  Catharine  (p.  567) ;  drive  through  Yekaterininskaya,  Preobrashenskaya, 
Deribassovskaya,  and  Piishkinskaya  (as  far  as  the  Exchange) ;  Alexander 
Park  (p.  568)  and  Lanslier6n  (p.  568). 

Odessa  (154  ft.),  in  the  province  of  Khers6n,  is  the  chief 
commercial  and  industrial  place  on  the  Black  Sea  and  the  fourth- 
largest  town  of  the  Russian  Empire  (pop.  500,000,  including  at 
least  175,000  Jews).    It  is  the  seat  of  an  archbishop  of  tin-  Greel 


566     Route  S3.  ODESSA.  Nikol&yevsky  Boul. 

church  and  of  a  modern  Russian  University,  and  it  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  8th  army-corps.  It  lies  in  46° 28/  N.  lat.  and  30°45' 
E.  long,  and  extends  for  a  distance  of  about  4  M.  over  the  elevated 
and  treeless  steppe.  The  winter  climate  is  consequently  very  severe 
(mean  temperature  in  Jan.  25°  Fahr.,  July  73°,  annual  mean  49°). 
Its  wide  and  well-paved  streets,  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles 
and  generally  planted  with  trees,  make  it  one  of  the  most  regularly 
laid  out  and  most  handsome  cities  in  Russia.  Attractive  parks  have 
been  as  it  were  wrested  from  the  barren  soil  by  dint  of  untiring 
perseverance  and  unstinted  care. 

The  rescript  in  which  Catharine  II.  ordered  the  foundation  of  the 
town  was  dated  May,  1794,  and  its  foundation-stone  was  laid  by  Admiral 
J.  de  Ribas  in  August  of  the  same  year.  The  new  city,  which  sprang 
up  on  the  site  of  the  small  Tartar  and  Turkish  village  of  Chadshibe't/, 
was  probably  named  after  the  Sarmatian  harbour  of  Odessos  which  is  said 
to  have  lain  in  this  neighbourhood.  From  1817  to  1859  Odessa  was  a 
free  harbour.  It  was  greatly  improved  by  the  efforts  of  two  of  its  governors, 
the  Due  de  Richelieu  (1803-14)  and  Prince  Vorontsov  (1823-54).  During 
the  Crimean  war  the  town  was  attacked  unsuccessfully  by  the  British 
and  French  fleets  in  1854,  and  the  blockade  by  Turkish  war-ships  in  187(3-7 
was  equally  fruitless.  The  excesses  of  the  revolution  of  1905  were  nowhere 
more  ghastly  than  at  Odessa. 

The  Harbour  (347  acres  in  area),  which  in  winter  has  some- 
times to  be  kept  open  by  ice-breakers,  consists  of  an  outer  har- 
bour (154  acres)  and  five  inner  basins.  Effective  protection  against 
all  sea- winds  is  afforded  by  a  breakwater  (1334  yds.  long),  the 
quarantine  mole  (1120  yds.  long),  and  the  so-called  roadstead  mole 
(710  yds.  long),  forming  a  continuation  of  the  last.  The  so-called 
Quarantine  Harbour  (PI.  E,  F,  5)  is  for  foreign  vessels;  the  New 
Harbour  (PI.  E,  4),  between  the  Platonovsky  and  New  moles, 
and  the  Coal  Harbour  (PI.  D,  E,  4)  are  for  Russian  traders;  the 
Practical  Harbour  (PI.  D,  3,  4)  is  for  coasting  vessels.  To  the  N. 
of  the  town,  opposite  the  suburb  of  Peressyp,  where  a  second  break- 
water and  new  docks  are  projected,  lies  the  Petroleum  Harbour. 

Opposite  the  New  Mole  (PI.  E,  4)  is  a  massive  Plight  of  Granite 
Steps  (193  in  number)  ascending  to  the  level  of  the  town.  It  is 
adjoined  by  a  wire-rope  elevator  (3  or  2  cop.). 

The  finest  feature  of  this  part  of  the  town  is  the  *]Niko- 
layevsky  Boulevard  (PI.  D,  E,  4,  5),  a  broad  street  1jt  M.  in 
length,  which  stretches  along  the  margin  of  the  plateau  above  the 
harbour,  commanding  an  unimpeded  view  of  the  sea.  It  is  bounded 
on  one  side  by  a  series  of  handsome  buildings,  on  the  other  by 
four  rows  of  trees  and  pleasant  grounds.  In  spring  this  is  the 
rendezvous  of  the  fashionable  world,  just  as  the  Deribassovskaya 
(p.  567)  is  in  winter.  Towards  the  N.  the  houses  end  with  the 
Vorontsov  Palace.  The  Imperial  Palace  (PL  D,  5)  is  also  the 
residence  of  the  general  in  command  of  the  Odessa  Military  Dis- 
trict. At  the  entrance  to  the  Yekaterininskaya  a  bronze  statue  of 
the  Due  de  Richelieu  (PI.  32;  see  above)  was  erected  in  1826. 


V»ihedral  ODESSA.  S3.  Route.      567 

A  little  to  the  S.W.,  in  Catharine  Square,  rises  the  Monument 
of  Empress  Catharine  II.  (PI.  31;  D,4),  by  Dmitrenko  and  Popov 
(1900).  Round  the  pedestal  bearing  the  bronze  statue  of  the  empress 
are  figures  of  Prince  Potemkin  (in  front),  Count  Subov  (on  the  right), 
Col.  de  Volant  (left),  and  Admiral  J.  de  Eibas  (at  the  back).  The 
monument  is  35  ft.  high. 

From  this  point  the  Yekaterininskaya,  one  of  the  main  streets 
of  the  city,  leads  towards  the  S.  Just  beyond  the  Theatre  Square 
(see  below)  we  turn  to  the  right  and  follow  the  DeribAssovskaya 
(PI.  C,  D,  5),  a  short  street  with  the  finest  shops  in  Odessa,  skirt- 
ing the  Deribdssov  Garden,  to  the  — 

Sobornaya  Square  (PI.  C,  5),  with  its  pleasure-grounds  and 
fountain.  On  the  W.  side  of  the  square  rises  the  Cathedral  of  the 
Transfiguration  (PI.  13),  founded  in  1794,  in  length  114,  in  breadth 
46  yds.,  and  164  ft.  high.  It  has  a  dome,  rising  over  the  centre, 
and  a  tower  266  ft.  high.  In  the  interior,  to  the  right  of  the  main 
entrance,  is  the  tomb  of  Prince  Voronts6v  (d.  1856;  see  below). — 
In  the  grounds  to  the  N.  of  the  church  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Prince 
\'orontsov  (PL  22;  p.  566),  by  B rugger  (1863).  — On  its  E.  side 
the  square  is  skirted  by  the  Preobrashenskaya  (PI.  C,  D,  7-4),  tho 
longest  street  in  the  town. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Sobornaya  Square  diverges  from  the  last-named 
street  to  the  N.W.  the  Khersonskaya,  with  the  building  of  the  New 
Russian  University  (PI.  30;  C,  4),  which  was  opened  in  1865  and 
contains  archaeological,  natural  history,  and  other  collections  (open 
on  Sun.  12-2).— At  the  N.  end  of  the  Torgovaya  (PI.  B,  C,  4,  5)  is 
the  Russov  Picture  Gallery,  with  modern  Russian  paintings  (shown 
on  application). 

At  the  end  of  the  Sadovaya  is  the  New  Bazaar  Square  (PI. 
C,  4),  where  a  market  is  held  daily.  The  Market  Hall  is  over- 
shadowed by  a  massive  building  of  1847,  the  large  Sryetenskaya 
or  Novobasdrnaya  Church  (PI.  18),  with  five  domes. 

We  return  by  Deribassovskaya  to  the  Theatre  Square.  The 
handsome  Town  Theatre  (PI.  29;  D,  5)  was  erected  by  the 
Viennese  architects  Fellner  and  Hellmer  (1887). 

A  few  paces  to  the  \V.  of  Theatre  Square,  at  the  S.  end  of  the 
Nikolayevsky  Boulevard  (p.  566),  rises  the  Town  Hall  (Duma; 
PI. 7,  DE,  5),  an  edifice  in  the  Greek  style,  with  a  portico  of  twelve 
columns.  Adjacent  are  a  fountain  with  a  brouze  bust  of  the  poet 
Alexander  Pushkin  (1799-1837;  p.  570)  and  a  cannon  from  the 
British  man-of-war  'Tiger',  sunk  in  1854. 

In  the  square  in  front  of  the  Puma  is  the  Museum  of  Anti- 
quities (PI.  3;D,  5),  with  objects  found  at  the  Greek  colonies  on 
the  Black  Sea. 

From  the  Duma  the  Pushkixskaya  leads  to  the  Main  Railway 
Station  (p.  564).    To  the  left,  at  the  corner  of  the  Kondrateuko 


'568     Route  84.  CRIMEA.  From  Odessa 

Street,  is  the  Exchange  (PI.  5;  D,6),  a  tasteful  erection  by  Berna- 
dazzi  (1899). 

To  the  B.  of  the  E.  end  of  the  Kondratenko  Street,  above  the 
Quarantine  Harbour  (p.  566),  lies  the  Alexander  Park  (PI.  E, 
5,6;  restaurant,  see  p.  565),  a  popular  resort  where  open-air  con- 
certs take  place  in  summer  in  favourable  weather.  The  Monument 
of  Alexander  II,  a  tall  column  of  labradorite,  commemorates  a 
visit  of  that  monarch  in  1875.  About  1/2  M.  farther  out  is  Lan- 
sherdn,  a  sea-bathing  place  (tramway,  see  p.  565). 

From  Lansher6n  a  series  of  villas  (datshas)  and  private  gar- 
dens extends  along  the  sea  to  the  Little  Fountain  (tramway),  with 
a  garden-restaurant  (band)  and  good  sea-bathing,  Arkadia  (tramway; 
band),  the  Middle  Fountain  (steam-tramway,  see  p.  565;  excellent 
beach),  and  the  Great  Fountain  (reached  from  the  terminus  of  the 
steam-tramway  by  cab,  20-30  cop.),  a  village  with  the  extensive  Us- 
penskiy  Monastery,  the  goal  of  an  annnal  pilgrimage.  These  three 
villages  take  their  name  from  a  spring  which  once  supplied  Odessa 
with  water. 

Still  farther  to  the  S.  is  the  German  colony  of  Lustdorf  or  01- 
gino,  with  vineyards  and  frequented  sea-baths  (tramway  from  the 
Great  Fountain  in  20  min.,  fare  20  cop.;  cab  1V2~2  roub.). 

See  also  Baedeker 's  Rtissland  or  Baedeker's  Russie  (not  yet  published 
in  English). 

84.  From  Odessa  to  Batum. 

723  M.  Steamship  Lines  (agents  at  Odessa,  see  p.  5G5;  at  Batum, 
see  p.  570).  1.  North  German  Lloyd  (Mediterranean  &  Levant  Service; 
p.  563),  from  Odessa  to  Batum  (and  Constantinople)  every  fourth  Monday. 
Passengers  between  the  two  Russian  ports  are  not  carried.  Fares  from 
Constantinople  as  at  p.  571.  —  2.  Russian  Steam  Navigation  &  Trading  Co. 
(direct  Crimea  and  Caucasus  Line)  from  Odessa  to  Batum  every  Mon.  aft. 
or  even,  (from  Batum  every  Sun.  night),  via  Sebastopol,  Yalta,  Feod6ssiya, 
and  Novorossysk,  in  4  days  (1st  el.  413/4  roub.). 

Odessa,  see  p.  564.  The  Lloyd  Steamers  pursue  a  S.E.  course, 
straight  towards  Cape  Chersonese  (see  p.  569). 

The  flat  Cape  Tarkhankut  (lighthouse),  the  W  extremity  of  the 
Crimea  (p.  xxxiv)  or  Tauric  Peninsula  (the  ancient  Chersonesus 
Taurica),  remains  out  of  sight.  On  the  S.E.  the  Yaila  Mis.,  ex- 
tending to  the  Chatyr-Dagh  (4990  ft.),  gradually  come  into  view, 
along  with  the  hilly  district  in  front  of  them  sloping  thence  to  the 
rolling  steppes  in  the  N.  part  of  the  Crimea. 

In  clear .  weather  we  may  descry  to  the  E.  Cape  Constantine, 
the  N.  horn  of  the  Bay  of  Sebastopol  (Enss.  Sevastopol),  the  best 
natural  harbour  of  the  Black  Sea,  measuring  about  41/2  M.  from 
side  to  side.  The  higher  parts  of  the  town  of  Sebastopol,  the  chief 
naval  harbour  of  S.  Russia,  famous  for  its  siege  (1854-5)  during  the 
Crimean  War,  also  are  visible. 


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to  Batum.  YALTA.  **•  Route.     r,(>9 

As  soon  as  we  have  rounded  the  flat  Cape  Chersonese  (lighthouse), 
the  S.W.  extremity  of  the  Crimea,  we  see  before  us  the  S.  coast  of 
the  peninsula,  rising  gradually  to  the  precipices  of  Cape  Aiya. 

To  the  left  rises  Cape  Fiolente,  the  Parthenium  of  the  ancients, 
the  supposed  site  of  the  sanctuary  of  Artemis  in  which  Iphigenia 
served  as  priestess.  Beyond  it,  ahove  the  steep  and  wooded  shore, 
is  St.  George's  Monastery,  founded  in  988. 

In  the  distance,  between  bare  rocks  on  either  hand,  is  the 
narrow  entrance  to  the  Bay  of  Balaclava,  supposed  to  correspond 
with  Homer's  description  of  the  Lsestrygonian  Bay  (Odyss.  X,  86- 
94).  The  picturesque  little  town  of  Balaclava,  the  ancient  Sym 
bolon  Partus  and  the  seat  in  the  middle  ages  of  the  Genoese  col- 
ony of  Cembalo,  was  the  chief  base  of  the  British  army  in  the 
Crimean  war,  famed  for  the  gallant  charge  of  the  Light  Brigade 
(25th  Oct.,  1854),  commemorated  by  Tennyson. 

Beyond  Cape  Aiya  (1919  ft.),  which  in  clear  weather  is  visible 
for  some  68  M.,  opens  the  Bay  of  Laspi,  enclosed  by  the  W.  spurs 
of  the  Yaila  Mts. 

"When  abreast  of  Cape  Sarytsh  (lighthouse),  the  S.  point  of  the 
Crimea,  below  the  Church  of  Foros  and  the  Baidar  Gate  (1634  ft. ; 
celebrated  for  its  view),  the  Lloyd  vessels  pursue  an  E.S.B.  course 
direct  for  Batum.  The  picturesque  and  exuberantly  fertile  coast 
of  the  so-called  Russian  Riviera  lies  to  our  left,  but  all  that  we 
can  descry  are  the  precipitous  Cape  Kikene'is,  the  range  of  the 
Ai-Petri  (4046  ft.),  and  the  distant  Cape  Ai-Todor  (see  below). 

The  Russian  Steamer  calls  first  at  Sebastopol  (p.  568)  and  beyond 
Cape  Sarytsh  steers  near  the  coast.  The  chief  points  visible  are  MshdQca, 
Mildss  (recognizable  by  its  four  towers),  Cape  Kikene'is  (see  above),  and  the 
lofty  and  abrupt  cliff  of  IHvo,  below  Leme'ny.  "We  soon  sight  the  superb 
chateau  of  Aliipka  (p.  570),  with  Mt.  Ai-Petri,  the  white  Moorish  chateau 
of  Julber,  and  Cape  Ai-Todor,  with  the  villa  of  Schwalbennest. 

Beyond  the  headland  Yalta  is  disclosed  to  view.  In  the  distance  to 
the  N.E.  rises  Ayu-Dagh  ('bear  hill';  1854ft.).  We  pass  Oreanda  and 
Livadia  (p.  570)  and  land  at  the  mole  of — 

Yalta.  —  Hotels.  *Rossiya  (PI.  a),  E.  from  2-3,  B.  a/4,  D.  IV*  roub.; 
Frdnziya  (PI.  c),  rather  cheaper;  Hot.  de  Yalta  (PI.  d),  in  a  high  site,  good, 
E.  from  l'/g  roub.,  D.  from  80  cop.  to  1  roub.;  Marino  (PI.  i);  Oreanda; 
Mitropole;  Grand-Hotel  (PI.  f),  etc.  —  Eestaueant  in  the  public  gardens 
D.  »/a-l  roub. 

Cabs  (good  'phaetons'  and  pair).  Drive  in  the  town  (also  to  or  from 
harbour)  20-50  cop.  (luggage  10  cop.) ;  hour  70,  each  addit.  '/2  hr-  3"  cop.  — 
Post  &  Telegraph  Office,  at  the  Oreanda  Hotel  (see  above).  —  Sea 
Baths  (10-15  cop.),  on  the  Nabereshnaya  (stony  beach).  —  The  Yalta  section 
of  the  Club  Alpin  de  Crimie  arranges,  from  April  to  Oct.,  drives  (fare 
l'/aroub.)  and  walks  in  the  environs.  In  the  club-house  (PL  3;  with  mu- 
seum and  meteorological  station),  beside  the  police-bridge,  the  programme 
for  the  week  may  be  consulted. 

Yalta  or  Jdlta,  the  capital  of  a  district,  with  20,000  inhab.,  most  pic- 
turesquely situated  in  a  bay  formed  by  the  spurs  of  the  abrupt  Yaila  Mts. 
(p.  568),  is  the  most  fashionable  watering-place  in  the  Crimea  (mean 
annual  temperature  57°  Fahr.).  The  Ndbereshnaya  or  Marine  Esplanade 
and  the  adjacent  shady  town-garden  (20  cop.)  are  the   chief  promenades. 


570     Route  84.  BATUM. 

To  the  E.  of  Yalta,  and  reached  in  1  hr  by  the  upper  road  to  Gursuff 
(see  below),  is  the  (3  M.)  beautiful  park  of  *Lower  Massandra  (carr.  there 
and  back  1  roub.  60  cop.;  adm.  by  season-tickets  which  are  issued  free 
of  charge  at  the  director's  office  on  week-days,  9-12  and  2-5).  Adjacent, 
on  the  N.E.,  is  Upper  Massandra,  with  a  small  imperial  chateau.  —  To  the 
E.  of  Lower  Massandra  are  the  vineyards  of  Mahardtsh  and  (4'/a  M.  from 
Yalta)  Nikita,  with  an  interesting  acclimatization-garden,  founded  in  1812. 

In  beautiful  grounds  about  2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Yalta  are  the  two 
imperial  palaces  of  Livddia.  Adm.  on  week-days,  9-12  and  2-5,  on  showing 
one's  passport  at  the  director's  office.  From  the  park  of  Livadia  we  may 
next  go  by  the  'Lower  Road'  to  the  adjoining  park  of  Orednda  (carr.  from 
Yalta  3  roub.  20  cop.),  which  likewise  is  imperial  property.  Since  it  was 
burned  in  1882  the  castle  has  remained  a  ruin.  A  good  view  is  obtained 
from  the  Krestovaya  Gord  (614  ft.)  or  'Hill  of  the  Holy  Cross'. 

About  11  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Yalta  (carr.  3  roub.  20  cop.;  also  local 
steamers),  on  the  coast,  lies  Alupka,  with  a  beautiful  park  and  a  chateau 
in  the  Gothic-Moorish  style,  built  by  Blore  in  1837  for  Prince  Voronts6v 
(p.  566).— -About  9  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Yalta  is  Gursuff  (carr.  5  roub.  60  cop. ; 
also  local  steamers),  in  a  charming  situation,  with  good  sea-baths.  In 
the  former  chateau  of  the  Due  de  Richelieu  Pushkin  (p.  567)  lived  in  1820. 

Beyond  Yalta  the  direct  Russian  steamers  continue  their  voyage  along 
the  coast,  which  farther  on  becomes  increasingly  level,  to  Feodossiya  or 
Theodosia  (p.  xxxiv),  the  chief  commercial  port  of  the  Crimea.  Hence 
they  steer  to  the  S.E.,  leaving  the  Straits  of  Kertch  (see  below)  to  the 
left,  to  the  beautifully  situated  seaport  of  Novorossysk.  From  the  last 
port  to  Batum  the  steamers  follow  a  similar  course  to  that  of  the  Lloyd 
Steamers  described  below. 

See  also  Baedeker's  Russland  or  Rnssie  (no  English  edition). 

The  Llotd  Steamer  now  makes  for  the  open  sea,  leaving  the 
Straits  of  Kertch  or  Yenikale  (the  ancient  Cimmerian  Bosporus), 
the  entrance  to  the  Sea  of  Azov  (p.  561),  far  to  port  (left). 

The  S.W.  slope  of  the  Great  Caucasus,  the  mighty  frontier- 
wall  between  Europe  and  Asia,  which  has  been  almost  uninhabited 
since  the  emigration  of  the  Circassians  in  1865,  does  not  become 
visible  until  we  are  abreast  of  Gagry.  When  we  are  nearly  oppos- 
ite the  mouth  of  the  Ingiir  we  may  descry  in  clear  weather  the  two 
snowy  domes  of  the  volcanic  Elbruz,  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called, 
Elburz  (18,46S  ft.),  the  chief  height  of  the  Central  Caucasus. 

As  the  boat  holds  its  course  in  the  direction  of  Batum  the 
Ajara  Mts.  (Lazistan,  p.  571),  belonging  to  the  Little  Caucasus 
('Armenian  Highlands')  rise  to  the  E.,  separated  from  the  Great 
Caucasus  by  the  ancient  land  of  Colchis,  the  marshy  plain  of  the 
Rion  (the  ancient  Phasis).  The  Harbour  of  Batum,  opening  to  the 
N.,  is  inadequately  sheltered  from  the  W.  and  S.W.  storms  of  winter 
by  Cape  Batum  (lighthouse). 

Batum. —  Arrival.  All  the  steamers  are  moored  alongside  the  quay; 
hand  baggage  5  cop.,  heavy  luggage  10  cop.  each  package. 

Hotels.  Frdnziya,  Michailovskaya;  Imperial,  Kutai'skaya,  R.  l'/j-lO,  B. 
</2roub.;  Oriental,  Nabereshnaya.  —  Post  &  Telegraph  Office,  Mariinsky 
Prospekt.  —  Cab  from  harbour  or  station  to  town  40,  drive  25,  hour  60  cop. 

Consuls.  British,  P.  W.  J.  Stevens. — United  States,  A.  Heingartner; 
vice-consul,  E.  Mattievich. 

Steamboat  Agents.  North  German  Lloyd,  Schutz  &  Zimmermann; 
Russian  Steam  Navigation  &  Trading  Co.,  Arkadaksky;  Austrian  Lloyd, 


BATUM.  84.  Route.     571 

Marcetich;  Messageries  Maritimes,  De  Cortenze;  Societa  Nazionale,  Va- 
lazzi;  N.  raquet  <fc  Co.,  Victor  d'Arnaud. 

Batum,  a  town  of  ca.  30,000  inhab.,  was  the  ancient  Bathys, 
a  place  of  little  importance.  In  modern  times,  under  the  name  of 
Bathumi,  it  was  a  Turkish  frontier-fortress  down  to  1878.  By  the 
terms  of  the  Berlin  Congress  of  that  year  it  passed  to  Russia  (along 
with  Kars),  and  it  is  now  the  strongly-fortified  capital  of  the 
Russian  province  of  its  own  name.  The  town,  which  has  the  most 
important  harbour  on  the  E.  coast  of  the  Black  Sea,  owes  its  pres- 
ent prosperity  to  the  construction  of  the  railway  to  Baku,  on  the 
Caspian  Sea.  The  staples  of  its  trade  are  petroleum  products  (an- 
nual exports  l1/i  million  tons),  manganese  ore,  liquorice,  silk- 
cocoons,  and  wool.  Along  the  beach  runs  the  Boulevard,  above 
which  to  the  S.  rises  the  Alexander  Nevsky  Cathedral,  built  in 
1903.  About  3/4  M.  to  the  S.  lies  the  Railway  Station,  and  near 
by  is  a  Roman  Catholic  Church.  In  the  W.  part  of  the  town,  on 
Lake  Nurie,  is  the  Alexander  Park,  with  subtropical  vegetation. 

To  the  S.W.  of  the  town,  beyond  Cape  Batum,  is  the  marshy  and 
fever-stricken  Delta  of  the  Chorokh. 

See  also  Baedeker's  Russland  or  Rtissie  (no  English  edition). 


85.  From  Batum  to  Constantinople. 

726  M.  Steamship  Lines  (agents  at  Batuin,  see  p.  570;  at  Constanti- 
nople, see  pp.  538,  539).  1.  North  German  Lloyd  (Mediterranean  &  Levant 
Service;  p.  563),  from  Batum  every  alternate  Sat.,  in  4  days,  via  Trebizond, 
Samsun,  and  (if  required)  Ineboli  (fare  80  or  56  marks). — 2.  Russian 
Steam  Navigations:  Trading  Co.  (Anatolian  line),  from  Batum  every  other 
Thurs.  night  (from  Constantinople  Prid.  aft.)  via  Rizeh,  Trebizond,  Kerasun, 
Urdu,  Samsun,  Sinope,  and  Ineboli,  in  6>/2  days  (fare  112  or  84  fr.,  food 
extra).  —  3.  Austrian  Lloyd,  from  Batum  Prid.  midnight  (from  Constantin 
ople  Sat.  aft.)  via  Rizeh,  Trebizond,  Kerasun,  Samsun,  and  Ineboli,  in 
5V>  days  (fare  130;  2nd  class,  food  extra,  48  fr.).  —  4.  Messageries  Mari- 
times, from  Batum  every  second  Wed.  evening  (from  Constantinople  Mon.) 
via  Trebizond  and  Samsun,  in  5  days  (fare  100  or  60  fr.).  —  5.  N.  Paquet 
&  Co.,  from  Batum  every  second  Thurs.  (from  Constantinople  Tues.)  via 
Trebizond  and  Samsun,  in  5  days  (fare  100  or  60  fr.).  -6.  Societa,  Na- 
zionale  (Line  IX),  from  Batum  every  other  Tues.  even,  (from  Constantinople 
Thurs.  aft.)  via  Trebizond,  Kerasun,  Samsun,  and  Ineboli,  in  4V2-5  days 
(fares  93  fr.  70,  62  fr.  50  c). 

Most  of  the  Austrian,  French,  and  Italian  vessels  are  small  old  cargo- 
boats.  The  S.  coast  of  the  Black  Sea  is  often  visited  by  dangerous  tem- 
pests, especially  in  winter. — For  Turkish  money,  see  p.  536. 

Batum,  see  p.  570.  Long  after  starting  we  continue  to  enjoy, 
in  clear  weather,  a  grand  *View  of  the  snow-clad  central  chain 
of  the  Great  Caucasus  (p.  570).  The  rugged  mountains  of  the 
Lazistan,  covered  with  snow  in  winter,  become  visible  as  far  as 
the  Kolat  Dagh  (about  7540  ft.)  and  are  equally  impressive.  There  ' 
are  numerous  small  towns  on  the  coast,  but  the  only  one  called  at 
by  the  steamers  is  Rizeh  (the  ancient  Rhizus),  the  first  seaport 

Baedeker's  Mediterranean.  37 


572     Route  86.  TREBIZOND.  From  Batum 

beyond  the  Turkish  frontier,  which  is  almost  hidden  by  a  forest  of 
fruit-trees. 

We  next  pass  the  headland  Erekli  Burnu.  As  we  near  Trebi- 
zond  we  see  the  delta  of  the  brook  Piksit  Su  or  Matshka  (the 
ancient  Pyxites),  where,  according  to  a  vague  tradition,  the  ten 
thousand  Greeks  under  Xenophon  encamped  in  400  B.C.  on  their 
retreat  from  Persia  (comp.  pp.  574,  576). 


Trebizond.  —  Arrival.  The  landing,  which  takes  place  at  the 
pier  adjoining  the  custom-house  (PI.  C,  1),  is  often  attended  by  vexatious 
delays  and  also,  if  there  is  a  strong  wind  blowing  from  the  sea,  by 
considerable  difficulty. 

Hotels.  Pens.  Marengo  (PI.  b;  B,  1),  on  the  E.  hill,  with  fine  views, 
well  spoken  of;  Hot.  Suisse  (PL  a;  B,  1),  on  the  Hurriyet  Meidan;  pens. 
in  both  6-10  fr. 

Austrian  Post  Office  (PL  B,  1),  near  the  Hurriyet  Meidan.  —  Steam- 
boat Agents,  at  the  harbour.  —  Banks.  Banqite  Ottomane  (p.  539) ;  Banque 
d'Athenes. 

Consulates.  British  (PL  15 ;  B,  2) :  consul,  U.  Z.  Longworth.  —  United 
States  (PL  16;  B,  2):  consul,  M.  A.  Jeivett;  vice-consul,  /.  Montesanto. 

Trebizond,  the  Turkish  Tirabson  or  Tardbosan,  the  seat  of 
the  governor -general  of  the  vilayet  of  the  same  name  and  of  a 
Greek  and  an  Armenian  archbishop,  is,  next  to  Samsun,  the  most 
important  seaport  on  the  N.  coast  of  Asia  Minor.  It  contains 
35,000  inhab.,  including  Greeks,  Turks,  Armenians,  Persians,  and 
Lazis,  who  speak  a  dialect  resembling  the  languages  of  the  S.  Cau- 
casus. Trapezus,  founded  by  Milesians  from  Sinope  (7th  cent. 
B.C.  ?),  was  named  after  the  'table '-shaped  ('trapeza')  castle-hill 
(p.  573).  Next  to  the  mother-city  it  was  the  most  important  Greek 
colony  in  what  afterwards  became  the  kingdom  of  Pontus  (p.  575), 
and  was  the  seat  of  a  governor  in  the  Byzantine  period.  After  the 
conquest  of  Constantinople  by  the  Crusaders  (p.  542)  it  became 
the  capital  of  the  small  Greek  empire  of  the  Comneni,  the  last  of 
whom,  David  Comnenus,  was  overthrown  by  Mohammed  II.  (p.  542) 
in  1461. 

Trebizond  is  picturesquely  situated  on  three  low  ridges  at  the 
N.  base  of  Boz  Tepeh  (800  ft.),  an  outlier  of  the  mountains  extend- 
ing thence  to  the  S.  to  the  Kolat  Dagh  (p.  571).  The  small 
harbour  facilitates  trade  with  the  towns  of  the  hinterland  (e.  g. 
Gumiishkhaneh),  but  it  is  only  partly  protected  against  sea-winds 
by  the  pier  at  Kalmek  Point  and  a  new  breakwater  at  the  head- 
land of  Eleusa.  Notwithstanding  the  competition  of  Batum  and 
the  Trans- Caucasian  railway  Trebizond  still  carries  on  a  con- 
siderable camel-caravan  traffic  with  the  Armenian  highlands  (Er- 
zerum)  and  N.  Persia  (Tabriz). 

The  trade  and  indnstry  of  Trebizond  are  concentrated  in  the 
new  town  on  the  East  Hill,  above  the  harbour.    Beyond  Kalmek 


to  Constantinople. 


TREBIZOND. 


86.  Route.     573 


Point,  on  which  are  a  battery,  a  lighthouse,  and  the  Giizel  Serai 
(PL  B,  C,  1 ;  now  artillery -barracks),  lies  the  Greek  quarter,  which 
encloses  the  Frank  quarter,  the  seat  of  the  European  wholesale 
merchants.  On  a  small  promontory  projecting  from  the  N.  shore 
rises  the  Ghreek  Cathedral  (PL  6;  B,  1). 

A  little  to  the  N.  of  the  Hurriyet  Meidan,  with  its  pleasure- 
grounds  (PL  12;  B,  1),  runs  one  of  the  main  streets  leading  to  the 
W.  to  the  Bazaars  (PL  A,  B,  1),  or  market  quarter,  which  presents 
a  lively  scene,  especially  in  the  early  morning.  The  most  interesting 
stalls  are  those  of  the  coppersmiths  and  of  the  native  goldsmiths, 
whose  works  in  gold  and  silver  filigree  are  sold  by  weight. 


Tagr\CT(SJ>ebes,l£ipag 


Key  to  Numbers.  Cemeteries  (allC,  2):  1.  Armenian-Catholic;  2.  Greek; 
3.  Latin  (seep.  475);  4.  Protestant.  —  Mi osques  and  Churches:  5.  A'iYaneh, 
Bl;  6.  Oreek  Cathedral,  Bl;  7.  Great  Mosque,  A,  Bl;  8.  Kathunieh 
le,  A  1;  9.  Orta  Hissar  Jamieai,  Al;  10.  St.  Basilius,  Bl.  —  II.  Yeni 
Juma  Jamissi  (St.  Eugenius),  A  2:  12.  Grounds  in  the  Hurriyet  Meidan, 
Bl.  — IS.  Serai'.  A  1.  — 14.  Zendan  Kapusi,  A  1.  — 15.  British  Consulate,  B2. 
— 10.  United  States  Consulate,  B  2. 

Near  the  At  Yaneh  Church  (PL  5;  B,  1),  to  the  S.  of  the  Ba- 
zaars, we  leave  behind  us  the  Usun  Sokak  and  pass  over  a,  Viaduct 
(fine  view)  leading  to  the  old  Castle  Hill,  rising  between  the  two 
ravines  of  the  Kuzgun  Deresi  and  the  Islceleboz  Deresi.  This  is 
now  occupied  by  the  Turkish  town  proper  and  contains  the  ruins 
of  the  Byzantine  Town  Walls. 


574     Route  85.  TIREBOLI.  From  Batum 

The  chief  artery  of  traffic  leads  through  the  Orta  Hissar  (PI.  A, 
1,2)  or  older  and  central  part  of  the  castle.  It  passes  (left)  the 
SeraY  (PI.  13;  A,  1),  the  seat  of  the  governor-general,  and  (right) 
the  mosque  of  Orta  Hissar  Jamissi  (PI.  9;  A,  1),  once  the  church 
oiPanayia  Chrysokephalos,  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Justinian. 

At  the  Serai'  a  street  diverging  to  the  left  leads  to  the  Yokari 
Hissar  (PI.  A,  2),  or  old  upper  castle,  with  the  ruins  of  the  imperial 
palace  of  the  Comneni.  —  On  the  N.  side  of  the  Serai'  various  crooked 
lanes  descend  through  the  Ashagi  Hissar  (PI.  A,  1),  or  lower  castle, 
the  wall  of  which  projects  over  the  W.  ravine,  to  the  Fishing  Har- 
bour, the  ancient  harbour  of  Trapezus,  where  remains  of  an  almost 
semicircular  quay  are  still  visible  under  water  The  appearance 
of  the  fishing-boats  is  very  quaint. 

Through  the  Zendan  Kapusi  (PI.  14;  A,  1),  or  W.  gate,  we  pass 
from  the  Serai'  over  a  second  viaduct  to  the  West  Hill.  Here  lie  (on 
the  left)  the  picturesque  Turkish  Cemetery  and  a  suburb  occupied 
by  Turks  and  Greeks.  Beyond  the  infantry-barracks,  at  the  W.  end 
of  this  suburb,  rises  the  old  Aya  Sopihia  Church,  now  a  mosque. 

Beautiful  *View8  are  obtained  from  the  caves  of  Kirk  Batal  (PI.  B, 
0,  2),  on  the  slope  of  Boz  Tepeh  (p.  572),  above  the  Greek  cemetery,  and 
from  the  high-lying  Greek  nunnery  of  Panaya  Theoskepastos  (Turk. 
Kislar  Monastir;  PI.  B,  2). 

A  pleasant  Drive  (or  walk  or  ride)  may  be  taken  to  the  hill  of 
Snk-Su  in  the  S.W.  with  the  summer-residences  of  the  wealthier  Greeks; 
or  to  the  W.  along  the  coast  to  (1  hr.)  Platana  (see  below;  motor-omn. 
15  pias.;  carr.  there  and  back  40-50  pias.);  or  to  the  S.,  through  the 
Pyxites  Valley  (p.  572),  following  a  road  traversed  by  many  camel- 
caravans,  and  ascending  steeply  to  (4  hrs.)  Jevislik  (carr.  there  and  back 
80  pias.;  provisions  should  be  taken). 


Beyond  Trebizond  the  Steamer  passes  the  little  port  of  Platana, 
the  ancient  Hermonassa,  with  a  good  roadstead,  protected  against 
the  W.  and  N.W.  winds.  The  lofty  Cape  Yoros  or  Ieros  (ancient 
Hieron;  lighthouse),  is  visible  for  some  65  M.  and  is  locally 
regarded  as  an  infallible  barometer. 

Tireboli,  the  Tripolis  of  the  Greeks,  the  next  seaport,  now  a 
quiet  little  town  with  5000  inhab.,  lies,  like  Kerasun,  amid  the 
magnificent  rocky  scenery  of  the  spurs  of  the  Sis  Dagh  (9220  ft.) 
and  the  Chal  Dagh  (6450  ft.) ,  the  summits  of  which  are  often 
covered  with  snow.  Roads  lead  thence  inland  to  the  towns  of 
Griimushkhaneh  and  Karahissar. 

Farther  on,  beyond  Cape  Zephyros  (Turk.  Zefireh  Burnu) 
we  reach  the  seaport  of  Kerasun  or  Kerasund  (Turk.  Kiresiin, 
Greek  Kireson),  founded  under  the  name  of  Kerasus  by  the  Miles- 
ians of  Sinope  and  now  a  town  of  about  18,000  inhabitants.  Like 
Trebizond  it  was  one  of  the  resting-places  of  the  Ten  Thousand 
under  Xenophon  (p.  572).  Its  situation  on  and  behind  a  small  penin- 


to  Constantinople.  SAMSUN.  SB.  Route.     575 

sula  (about  425  ft.;  lighthouse),  which  used  to  be  fortified,  and 
backed  by  superb  mountains  is  very  picturesque.  The  poor  anch- 
orage of  the  steamers  is  on  the  W.  side  of  the  peninsula,  near  the 
pier  and  the  custom-house.  Owing  to  the  want  of  good  communica- 
tion with  the  hinterland  its  maritime  commerce  is  insignificant. 

The  steamers  seldom  call  at  Ordu,  the  ancient  Kotyora,  but 
steer  across  the  Bay  of  Vona,  the  winter  quarters  of  most  of  the 
sailing-vessels  on  this  coast,  which  is  admirably  sheltered  by  C(vpe 
Vona  (Boona  Promontorium ;  lighthouse). 

Beyond  Yasun  Burnu  (Jasonium  Promontorium),  the  name 
of  which  commemorates  the  legendary  voyage  of  Jason  and  the 
Argonauts  (see  p.  560),  the  coast  recedes  far  to  the  S. 

Without  touching  at  the  little  seaport  of  Uniyeh  or  JJnia  (once 
(Enoe),  the  steamer  passes  the  Chiva  or  Chalti  Burnu  ( Her  acleum 
Promontorium)  and  the  large  delta  of  the  Yeshil  Irmak  (formerly 
Tris;  beacon),  which  is  navigable  for  small  vessels  in  winter  only, 
and  steers  direct  towards  the  broad  Bay  of  Samsun  (landing  or 
embarkation  71fs'pias.)i  which  is  enclosed  by  low  hills  clad  with 
plantations  of  tobacco  and  maize. 

Samsun.  —  Hotel.  Mantika,  near  the  Banque  Ottomane,  R.  2-5, 
pens.  15  fr.  (bargain  advisable). — Restaurant  Yanni,  near  the  tobacco- 
factory. 

Banks.  Banque  Ottomane,  Banque  d'Athenes,  Banque  de  Salonique. 
—  Post  Offices.     Turkish,   French,   and  others,   near  the  custom-house. 

Consuls.  British,  B.  Ch.  Papadopulos.  —  United  States  Consular  Agent, 
William  Peter. 

Samsun,  a  town  with  about  30,000  inhab.,  was  in  antiquity  an 
important  Greek  colony  under  the  name  of  Amisus  and  is  now  the 
chief  trading-place  on  the  N.  coast  of  Asia  Minor.  The  chief  ex- 
ports are  tobacco,  flour,  grain,  and  linseed.  The  manufactured  goods 
it  imports  are  forwarded  mainly  by  trains  of  wagons  or  camels  to 
such  inland  places  as  Mersifun,  Amasia  (once  Amasea,  the  home  of 
Strabo),  Tokat  (Comana),  Sivas  (Sebastia),  and  Kaisarieh  (Csesarea). 

From  the  custom-house  we  turn  to  the  left  to  the  Market  Place 
with  its  clock-tower.  A  well-paved  street  leads  thence  to  the 
Banque  Ottomane.  Farther  to  the  E.,  on  the  shore,  are  the  Serai 
(see  p.  483)  and  several  Consulates.  The  attractive  Villa  Quarter, 
occupied  by  Armenian  and  Greek  merchants,  conveys  an  impres- 
sion of  great  prosperity. 

Beyond  Samsun  the  sandy  coast  juts  out  far  towards  the  N.W. 
We  pass  the  strip  of  land  separating  the  sea  from  the  large  lagoon 
Ak  Gol,  the  vicinity  of  which  is  infested  by  fever.  Cape  Bafra 
(beacon),  a  little  farther  on,  is  near  the  delta  of  the  Kizil  Irmak 
(Halys),  which  in  B.C.  301-183  formed  the  boundary  between  the 
kingdom  of  Pontus  and  Paphlagonia.  Though  the  largest  river 
in  Asia  Minor  the  Kizil  Irmak  is  not  navigable. 

37* 


576     Route  86.  INEBOLI. 

Beyond  the  month  of  the  Halys  we  come  to  a  broad  semicircular 
bay.  On  its  N.  shore ,  beyond  the  peninsula  of  Boz  Tepeh  Burnu 
(about  650  ft. ;  beacon),  is  a  tongue  of  land  on  which  stands  Sinope 
(Turk.  Sinob),  the  oldest  of  the  colonies  established  on  the  coast 
of  the  Black  Sea  by  the  Greeks  of  Miletus  (p.  491)  and  long  the 
most  powerful.  Sinope  was  the  home  of  Diogenes  the  Cynic  (about 
B.C.  412-323).  Here  Xenophon's  Ten  Thousand  (p.  574)  took  ship 
on  their  way  back  to  Byzantium  (p.  541)  at  the  conclusion  of  the 
toilsome  Anabasis.  It  was  also  the  residence  of  Mithridates  VI. 
(B.  C.  120-63 ;  comp.  p.  507),  the  last  king  of  Pontus,  who  was  famous 
both  for  his  linguistic  accomplishments  and  his  military  powers. 
He  extended  his  sway  over  the  whole  of  Asia  Minor  and  the  Crimea 
(p.  568) ,  but  was  finally  subdued  by  the  Romans  in  three  hard- 
fought  campaigns.  Sinope,  formerly  the  starting-point  of  an  im- 
portant caravan-route  to  Cappadocia  and  the  lands  of  the  Euphrates, 
now  possesses,  notwithstanding  its  excellent  harbour,  little  more 
than  the  shadow  of  its  former  greatness.  The  poor  little  town, 
inhabited  by  about  8000  Greeks  and  Turks,  entirely  lacks  roads  to 
the  interior.  The  barracks  at  the  W.  end  of  the  headland  serve  as 
a  quarantine  lazaretto. 

We  next  steam  past  Injeh  Burun  (Syrias  Promontorium ; 
beacon),  the  northmost  point  of  Asia  Minor,  and  skirt  a  hilly, 
well-wooded,  but  thinly  peopled  stretch  of  the  shore. 

Ineboli  (Ionopolis),  the  chief  seaport  of  this  part  of  the  coast, 
situated  on  the  little  river  of  that  same  name,  is  a  poor  little  town 
with  Turkish  timber-built  houses  (p.  542)  and  a  ruined  castle. 
The  roads,  with  their  breakwater  in  ruins,  are  exposed  to  every 
wind  and  are  often  inaccessible  in  winter  for  days  together.  A 
road  leads  hence  to  (ca.  50  M.)  Kastamuni,  the  present  capital  of 
the  ancient  Paphlagonia. 

The  small  ports  beyond  Cape  Kerembe  (Carambis  Promon- 
torium; lights),  where  the  coast  again  turns  to  the  S.W.,  are  not 
touched  at  by  the  large  steamers. 

Farther  on,  in  the  ancient  Bithynia,  appear  the  prominent 
Cape  Baba  (Acherusia  Promontorium;  beacon)  and  Cape  Kir pe 
or  Kerpe,  with  the  small  island  of  Kirpe  (Thynias;  beacon).  Near 
Cape  Baba  lay  the  important  Greek  colony  of  Heraclea  Pontica, 
now  called  Erekli  or  Bender  Eregli. 

Farther  on  is  the  Yum  Burnu  (p.  560),  which  is  visible  at  a 
distance  of  17  M.  and  marks  the  N.  entrance  to  the  Bosporus. 

For  the  passage  of  the  Bosporus  and  the  arrival  in  Constan- 
tinople, see  pp.  560-558  and  p.  536. 


INDEX 


Abbas  (Abbes)  387. 

Abbasiveh  459. 

Abda  109. 

Abdalajis,  Sierra  de  72. 

Abd  el-Kader,  Arise  d' 
262. 

El-Abid  206. 

Abruzzi  428. 

Abu  Hammad  438. 

Abukir,  Fort  418. 

Abu  Nerarus  464. 

Abusir  (near  Alexan- 
dria) 418. 

—  (near  Cairo)  464. 
Abydos  534. 
Abvla  54. 

Acherit,   Foret  d'   266. 
Acherusia      Promonto- 

riurn  576. 
Acho,  Monte  del    103. 
Acholla  370. 
Aci  Castello  159. 
Acif  Djerra  258. 

—  el-Haruinam  261. 

—  Tleta  254. 
Acireale  158. 
Acre  469. 

— ,  Bay  of  468. 
Acrite  490. 
Acroceraunian  Mts. 

496. 
Adeje  42. 
Adelia  211. 
Adeni  257. 
Ad  Fratres  198. 
Adjeroud  125. 
El-Adjiba  251. 
Adjim  394. 
Ad  Piscinam  283. 
Adramyti  533. 
Adrianopolis  413. 
Ad  Septem  Fratres  103. 
Aduares,  Barranco  48. 
iEgadean   Islands   153. 
.aSgaleon,  Mt.  502. 
.aSgaleos,  Mt.  494. 
.ffigean  Sea  490. 
jEgimurus  153. 
^gina,  Bay  of  494. 
./Egion  501. 


^Egospotamoi  534. 
^Egusa  153. 

2Eiia  Amelia  Augusta 
Mactaris  360. 

—  Capitolina  472. 
JEolian  Islands  155. 
iEthalia  143. 
.Ethusa  396. 
.Etna,  Mt.  159. 
Afdalah  107. 
Affreville  210. 
El-Affroun  213. 
Agadie  267. 

Agadir   (Morocco)    110. 

—  (near  Tlemcen)  196. 
Agbia  357. 
Aggarsel  Nepte  387. 
Aggersel  365. 

Agha  217. 
Aghir  394. 
Agua,  Cabo  del  124. 

—  Garcia,  Forest  of  38. 

—  Mansa  40. 
Aguia,  Penha  d'  27. 
Ahaggar,  Highlands  of 

169. 
Aidour,  Pic  d'  182. 
Aiguades,  Anse   des 

265. 
Aiguille,   Pointe   de   1' 

125.  126. 
Ain-Abessa  269. 

—  -Abid  306. 

Affra  312. 

Amara  306. 

—  el-Arba  184. 

Bei'da  273. 

Bessem  250. 

—  Bou-Ras  354. 

— Dalia  (Morocco)  102. 

—  -Dalian  (near  Bona) 
303. 

—  -Douz  197. 

—  -Draham  327. 

—  -Fakroun  272. 
Fezza  186. 

—  Fijeh  484. 

—  -Garci  365. 

Ghrasesia  370. 

el-Hadjadj  203. 


A'iu-el-Hadjar  (Algeria) 
201. 

—  el-Hajar  (Morocco) 
110. 

Hallouf  365. 

—  el-Hamda  269. 

—  el-Hammani  273. 

—  -Hedja  357. 

—  el-Ibel  215. 

—  el-Jedida  102. 

Khamouda  371. 

Kial  185. 

—  -Kissa  315. 

—  -Mader  392. 

Meslout  206. 

Mesria  362. 

—  -Mimoun  273. 

—  -M'Lila  274. 

Mokra  303. 

Moulares  372. 

Naga  284. 

Oussara  215. 

Regada  306. 

Rharsalla  357. 

Rhelal  351. 

—  -Roua  269. 

—  -Roumi  328. 

—  -St.  Charles  307. 

—  -Sefra  202. 

Sennour  312. 

Sfissifa  203. 

—  -Smara  272. 
Sultan  258. 

—  -Taharaimine  312. 

—  -Talaouart  269. 
Talazit  215. 

—  -Tassera  271. 

Tava  248. 

Tedeles  207. 

Tellout  186. 

—  -Temouchent  185. 

Tounga  354. 

et-Turk  184. 

Tzadert  206. 

Yagout  274. 

Zannouch  383. 

Zatout  278. 

—  -Zeft  208. 
Ai -Petri  569. 

Ait  Akerma  Mts.   260. 


5' 


INDEX. 


Ait-Atelli  258. 

—  -Frah  258. 
Krelifa  258. 

—  -Lahssen  258. 

Larbaa  257. 

Mellal  259. 

Ai-Todor,  Cape  569. 
Ait-Ouabane  259. 

—  -Saada  259. 
Touddeurt  258. 

—  Yahia  258. 
Aivaly  533. 
Aiya,  Cape  569. 
Ajaceio,  Bay  of  133. 
Ajara  Mts.  570. 
Akbou  251. 

Akfadou,  Foret  d'  261. 
Ak  G61  575. 
El-Akhouat  360. 
Akinti  Burnu  558. 
Akir  470. 

Akka  (Akko)  469. 

Akkerman  564. 

Akines,  Pointe  131. 

Akouda  366. 

Akrotiri  489. 

Akte  (headland)  494. 

Alassio  113. 

Alban  Mts.  135. 

Albania  496. 

Albatre,    Montagne    d' 

278. 
Albenga  113. 
Alboasa,  Cape  123. 
Alboran  117. 
Albufeira  5. 
Albulaj  185. 
Alcantara,  the  158. 
Alcazar,  Punta  123. 
Aleih  483. 

Alexandreia  Troas  533. 
Alexandria  431.  xxxiii. 
Algarve  5. 
Algeciras  56. 
— ,  Bay  of  6. 
Algeria  168. 

Algiers  217. 
Academie  228. 
Agha-Inferieur  232. 

—  -Sup^rieur  228. 
Archeveche"  224. 
Arriere-Port  223. 
Avenue  Bab  el-Oued 

224. 

—  Malakoff  236. 
Belcourt  232. 
El-Biar  234. 
Birmandreis  231. 
Birtraria  234. 

Bois  deBoulogne  230. 


Algiers : 
Boulevard  Bru  231. 

—  Carnot  222. 

—  de  France  222. 

—  de  la  Rdpublique 
222. 

—  de  la  Victoire  227. 

—  Laferriere  226. 

—  Val6e  228. 
Bouzardah  235. 
— ,  Mont  235. 
Cabs  218. 
Campagne  Bellevue 

231. 
Cemeteries  227.  231. 

232.  236. 
Champ  deManceuvres 

232. 
Chateau  d'Hydra  231. 

—  -Neuf  234. 
Chemin     de    Maclay 

231. 

—  du  Telemly  230. 
Cheraga  234. 
Churches: 

Cathedral  225. 
English  230.  220. 
Notre -Dame    d'A- 

frique  236. 
—  des  Victoires 

224. 
St.  Augustin  226. 
Scottish  228.  220. 
Cimetiere  d'el-Kettar 
227. 

—  de  Mustapha  231. 

—  Musulman  de  Bel- 
court  232. 

Cit6  Bugeaud  234. 
Colonne  Voirol  230. 
Conseil  Ge^ral  224. 
Consuls  219. 
Dar  Soof  225. 
D^pSche    Algerienne 

226. 
Deux-Moulins  236. 
English  Cemetery 

231. 

—  Church  230.  220. 
Escaliers    de   la  Pe- 

cherie  223. 

—  du  Bastion  Central 
223. 

Fish  Market  223. 
Fontaine  du  Hamma 

232. 
Foret  de  Ba'inem  235. 
Fort  de  la  Bouzareah 

235. 

—  des  Anglais  236. 

—  des  Arcades  231. 


Algiers : 

Fort  Duperre  236. 

—  l'Empereur  234. 
Frais-Vallon  234. 
Gouvernement,  Bu- 
reaux du  226. 

Grotte  de  Cervantes 

232. 
Hamma,  Le  232. 
Harbour  222. 
Hopital  Militaire   du 

Dey  235. 
Hotels  217. 
Hussein-Dey  233. 
Jardin  d'Essai  232. 

—  du  Hamma  232. 
■ —  Marengo  224. 
Jenina  224. 

Jetee  du  Nord  222. 
Jewish  Cemetery  236. 
Kasba  227. 
Kouba  233. 
Kursaal  Theatre  224. 
Lyc^e   National  224. 
Marche"    de   Chartres 
226. 

—  de  la  Lyre  226. 
Medersa  228. 
Monuments : 

Duke    of    Orleans 
223. 

Mac  Mahon   230. 

Marshal     Bugeaud 
226. 
Mosques: 

Great  224. 

Ketshawa  225. 

Mozabites  226. 

de  la  Pecherie  223. 

Sidi  Abderrahman 
228. 

—  Mohammed  ech- 
Chenff  227. 
Mus6e  Municipal  des 

Beaux-Arts  226. 
Museum  229. 
Mustapha-Infdrieur 

232. 

Supdrieur  228. 

National  Library  225. 
Observatoire  235. 
Orphelinat   St.   Vin- 
cent-de-Paul 230. 
Oued    bel-Elzar   234. 

—  Knis  231. 

—  M'Kacel  234. 
Palais  Consulaire  223. 

—  de  Justice  226. 

—  de  l'Amiraute  223. 

—  d'Ete  du  Gouver- 
neur  230. 


INDEX. 


579 


Algiers : 

Palais  d'Hiver  du 
Gouverneur  225. 

Phare  223. 

Place    do    la    Repu- 
blique  222. 

—  du  Gouvernement 
223. 

—  Malakoff  224. 
Plaine   de  Mustapha 

228. 
Plateau  Sauliere  228. 
Porte   du   Sahel  233. 
Post  Office  219.  226. 
Prefecture  222. 
Presqu'ile  de  l'Ami- 

raute  223. 
Q,uai  de  laMarine  222. 
C|uartier  Bab  el-Oued 

234. 

—  del'Esplanade236. 

—  des  Tagarins  228. 

—  d'Isly  230. 
Railway  Stations  217. 
Rampe  de  l'Amirautc 

223. 
Rampes   Chasseloup- 
Laubat  223. 

—  Magenta  223. 
Ratto,  Dwelling 

House  of  M.  225. 
Ravin  de  la  Femme 
Sauvage  231. 

—  des  Sept -Sources 
230. 

Rue  Bab  el-Oued  224. 

—  de  Constantine  226. 

—  de   la  Kasba   227. 

—  de  la  Porte-Ncuve 
227. 

—  de  Lyon  232. 

—  d'Isly  226. 

—  Kleber  227. 

—  Marengo  228. 
Miehelet  228. 

—  Randon  227. 

—  Sadi-Carnot  232. 
Ruisseau,  Le  231. 
St.  Eugene  236. 

—  Raphael  234. 
Scottish  Church  228. 

220. 
Square  Bresson   222. 
Staoueli-Trappe  234. 
Station  Zoologique 

223. 
Steamboat  Agents 

219. 
Synagogue  227. 
Theatre  Municipal 

222. 


Algiers : 

Tramways  218. 
Turkish  Fountain 

223. 
University  228. 
Vallee    des    Consuls 

236. 
Vieux-Kouba  231. 
Villa  des  Grottes  231. 
—  Sesini  231. 
Village  Arabe   de  la 

Bouzareah  235. 

Algiers,  Bay  of  118. 
— ,  Sahel  of  221.  169. 
Albania  72. 
— ,  Sierra  de  89. 
Alhucemas,   Islas  de 

123. 
Ali  158. 
El-Alia  370. 
Alicante  112. 
Alicuri  146. 
Allaghan  251. 
Allelik  309. 
Alma  249. 
Almeida,   Barranco   de 

36. 
Almeria  112. 
Almijara,    Sierra   de 

112. 
Almina  103. 
— ,  Punta  de  la  123. 
Almodovar  68. 
Alora  88. 
Altava  186. 
Alta  Vista  41. 
Althiburus  362. 
Alupka  570. 
Alupo,  Cape  490. 
Alvo,  Monte  144. 
Amalfi  155. 
Amaro,  Monte  428. 
Ameradsa  278. 
Ameur-el-Ai'n  243. 
Amisus  575. 
Ammasdara  362. 
Amorg6s  417. 
Amoucha  269. 
Amriis  111. 
Anafe  107. 
Anaga  Mts.  33. 
— ,  Punta  de  33. 
Anaphe  417. 
Anapo  162. 

Anastasia  Islands  -562. 
Anatolia  490. 
Anatoli  Fanar  560. 

—  Hissar  558. 

—  Kavak  560. 
Ancona  427. 


Andalouses,  Plaine  des 

184. 
Andalusia  49. 
Andros  529. 
Anfa  107. 

Angad,  Plaine  des  197. 
Angustias,  Barranco  de 

las  48. 
Anjera  Mts.  103. 
Announa  307. 
Antequera  72. 
— ,  Punta  33. 
Anti-Atlas  93. 
Antibes,  Cap  d'  112. 
Anticaria  72. 
Antigoni  535. 
Anti-Lebanon  483. 

xxxiv. 
Antipaxos  500. 
Antipyrgos  415. 
Aokas,  Cape  266. 
Aomar  250. 
El-Aouaria  153. 
Apano-Garuna  499. 
Apennines  113.    427. 
Apes'  Hill  103. 
Aphrodisium  365. 
Apisa  Majus  359. 
Apollonia  (Palestine) 

468. 

—  (Tripolitania)  414. 
Apsorus  Insula  429. 
Apuan  Alps  134. 
Aquae  CalidsB  212. 

—  Carpitanm  364. 

—  Flavianae  273. 

—  Herculis  278. 

—  Sirenses  200. 

—  Tacapitanae  388. 

—  Thibilitanaj  307. 
Aquila,  Cape  133. 
Aquilaria  153. 
Arabian  Desert  438. 

—  Gulf  415. 
Arafo  40. 

— ,  the  36. 
El-Araish  104. 
Aram  391. 
Arba,  L'  247. 
Arbal  184. 
Arbatax  144. 
Archi  159. 
Archichina  389. 
Archi  dona  72. 
Areeiro,  Pico  27. 
Areiya  483. 
Arena,  Barranco  de  la 

40. 
Argennon  492. 
Argentario,  Monte  135. 
Argolis  494. 


5  SO 


INDEX. 


El-Ariana  338. 
Arib,  Les  210. 
Aribs,   Plaine  des  250. 
Aris  278. 
Arkadia  568. 
Arki  490. 
Arktonnesos  535. 
Arniascla,  the  327. 
Armi,    Capo   dell'  159. 
Arnautkioi  558. 
Arona  42. 
El-Aroussa  360. 
Arrebentao,    Pico    do 

27. 
El-Arrouch  303. 
Arsachena,  Bay  of  133. 
Arsinoe  413. 
Arslan  Burun  530. 
Arsilf  468. 
Artaki,  Bay  of  535. 
Artenara  46. 
Arucas  47. 
Arzew  199. 
Arzila  104. 
Asfi  109. 
Asia  Minor  490. 
Askania  492. 
Aspis  405. 
Aspra  Vuna  415. 
Aspro,  Kavo  500. 
Aspromonte  155. 
Assos  533. 
Asthoret  304. 
Astropalia  or 
Astypalsea  492. 
Atabyrion  490. 
Atalaya  46. 
Atalayasa  112. 
Atarfe  73. 
El-Ateuf  216. 

Athens  502. 
Academy   of  Science 

525. 
Acropolis  512. 

—  Museum  518. 
Akademeia  528. 
Areopagus  512. 
Asklepieion  511. 
Ave.  of  the  Apostle 

Paul  524. 
Belvedere  518. 
Boulevard  de  l'Univ- 

ersite  525. 

—  Syngros  495. 

Burial  Ground  out- 
side the  Dipylon 
523. 

Byron,    Statue    of 

508. 
Cafes  503. 


Athens : 

Churches: 

Constantine  525. 

English  504.  508. 

Kapnikarsea  520. 

Little  Metropolis 
520. 

Metropolitan  520. 

Panagia  Gorgopiko 
520. 

Roman  Catholic 
525. 
City  Wall  523. 
Consulates  504. 
.  Dionysion    en    Lim- 

nais  512. 
Dionysios   Areopagi- 

tes  Street  510. 
Dionysos,  Theatre  of 

510. 
Dipylon  522. 
Electric  Railway  503. 
Erechtheion  517. 
Erechtheus,  Palace  of 

518. 
Georgios  Chapel  528. 
Hadrian's  Arch  508. 

—  Library  520. 
Hagia  Marina  Hill 

524. 

—  Tri&da   or    Trias 
522. 

Hagios  Demetrios 
Lumpardiaris    524. 

Hekatompedon  518. 

History  505. 

Horologion  of  Andro- 
nikos  520. 

Hotels  502. 

Ilissos,  the  509. 

Kerameikos  522. 

Kimonian  Wall  518. 

Kolokythu  528. 

Kolonos  Agorseos 
521. 

—  Hill  528. 
Library  525. 
Lykabettos  528. 
Lysikrates,  Monu- 
ment of  510. 

Market  522. 

—  Gate  521. 
Museion  524. 
Museum ,    Historical 

and  Ethnological 
'526. 

— ,  National  Archaeo- 
logical 526. 

— ,  Numismatic  525. 

Mycenaean  Antiquit- 
ies 526. 


Athens : 

National  Theatre  525. 

Nike,  Temple  of  513. 

Nymphs,  Hill  of  the 
524. 

Observatory  524. 

Odeion     of    Herodes 
Atticus  511. 

Olympieion  509. 

Palace,  Royal  508. 

Parliament  House 
525. 

Parthenon  515. 

Pelasgic  Wall  517. 

Phaleron,  New  528. 

— ,  Old  528. 

Philopappos,    Monu- 
ment of  524. 

Place  de  la  Concorde 
525. 

—  de  la  Constitution 
508. 

Pnyx  Hill  524. 
Polytechnic  Institute 

526. 
Post  Office  504. 
Propylsea  513. 
Restaurants  503. 
Rue  d'Eole  520. 

—  de  Patisia  525. 

—  d'Hermes  520. 

—  du  Stade  525. 
Schliemann's    House 

525. 
Stables,  Royal  525. 
Stadion  509. 
Stoa  of  Attalos  521. 

—  Basileios  522. 

—  of    Eumenes    II. 
511. 

—  of  Giants  521. 

—  of  Hadrian  520. 
Syntagma  Square 

508. 
Telegraph  Office  504. 
Temple  of  Roma  and 

of  Augustus  518. 
Theatres  504. 
Theseion  521. 
Tower  of  the  Winds 

520. 
Tramways  503. 
University  525. 
Water  Conduit  528. 
Zappion  508. 

Atlas  93. 

—  of  Blida  169. 

Atlit  468. 

Attafs,  Plaine  des  209. 

Attairos,  Mt.  490. 


INDEX. 


581 


Attard  403. 
Augusta  159. 
Aumale  250. 
Aunobaris  357. 
Aures  Mts.  278. 
Aux  Deux-Fontaines 

268. 
Auzia  250. 
Axarquia  88. 
Axin,  Cape  131. 
Ayu  Dagh  569. 
Azazga  261. 
Azeffoun  130. 
Azerou  on  Gougane  258. 

—  es-G-uessig  258. 
Kellat  258. 

—  Madeue  259. 
Ncennad  258. 

—  Thaltatt  258. 

—  Tidier  259. 

—  n-Tirourda  259.  260. 

—  n-Tohor  260. 
Azib-ben-Ali-Cherif 

251. 
Aziinniur  108. 
Azov,  Sea  of  561.  xxxiv. 
Azulejos,  Los  (Peak  of 

Teneriffe)  42. 


Baba,  Cape  576. 

—  Burnu  533. 
Bab  el-Kebir  270. 

—  es-Serir  270. 
Babors,  Chaine  des  268. 
Babouch  327. 
Bab-Taza,   Col  de  198. 
Babylon  (Cairo)  460. 

443. 
Badajoz,    Barranco    de 

36. 
Bafra,  Cape  575. 
Bagai  273. 

Bagdbad,  Plaine  de  205. 
Baghai  273. 
Bagnara  155. 
Bahira,  Lake  153. 
Baidar  Gate  569. 
Ba'inem,  Foret  de  235. 
Bains  de  la  Reine  183. 

—  Romains  237. 
Baither  470. 
Bajaraar  37. 
Balaclava  569. 
Balah,  Lake  438. 
Balearic  Islands  112. 

—  Sea  126. 
Balerm  148. 
Balkans,  Little  562. 
Bandas  del  Sur  42. 
Barbate,  Bay  of  57. 


Barca  414.  xxxiii. 

Barcola  427. 

Bari  428. 

Barrage  200. 

— ,  Le  209. 

Barral  308. 

El-Bathan,   Bridge    of 

329. 
Bathys  571. 
Batna  275. 

Batum   (Bathuini)  570. 
-~,  Cape  570. 
Beaulieu  112. 
Bebek  558. 
Bee  de  l'Aigle  133. 
Bedrashein  464. 
El-Beida  201. 
Bei'kos  559. 
Beirut  481. 
Beja  328. 
Bekalta  369. 
Belad  el-Jerid  386. 
Belbina  494. 
Belcourt  127. 
Beleli^ta,  Massif  du 

308. 
Bel-Hacel  207. 
Bellavista,  Capo  di  144. 
Belle-Fontaine  250. 
Bellezma  Mts.  275. 
Belvedere  166. 
Ben-Bachir  327. 

—  -Chicao  215. 
Bender  Eregli  576. 
Benghazi  412. 
Bengut,  Cape  254. 
Benha  438. 
Benhisa  Point  411. 
Beni  Abbes   Mts.    251. 

—  Addi,  Hills   of  the 
308. 

—  A'icha,  Col  des  250. 

—  -Amran  250. 

—  Amrous  Hills  266. 
Barca  392. 

—  Bou  Alssi  Mts.  266. 

—  Chougrane  Mts.  200. 
Ferah  278. 

—  Hassain  Mts.  266. 
Hindel  209. 

Isguen  216. 

Ismail  268. 

Kalfoun,  Massif 

des  250. 

—  -Mansour  251. 
Hills  269. 

—  Mekla  Hills  253. 

—  -Mered  216. 

—  -  Mimoun  Djoua  Mts. 

266. 
Mora  283. 


Beni-Ounif    de    Figuig 
203. 

—  -Saf  185. 

Salah  Hills  308. 

,  Pic  des  214. 

—  Slimane  Mts.  266. 

—  Smail  Mts.  254. 
Benizze  499. 
Bent-Zert  353. 
Benzus,  Bay  of  123. 
Berard  238. 
El-Berd  285. 
Berenice  413. 
Bergama  533. 
Berlengas  Islands  4. 
Bermeja,  Sierra  111. 
Berrian  216. 
Berrouaghia  216. 
Berta,  Cape  113. 
Berytus  482. 
Besbikos  535. 
Bescera  280. 
Beshiktash  558. 
Besika  Bay  533. 
Bethar  470. 
Bethlehem  480. 
Betoya  123. 
Bettioua  199. 
Beylerbev  558. 
Beyrout  482. 
Bianco,  Capo  492. 
El-Biar  234. 

Biar  el-Alia  370. 
Biban,  Chaine  des  270. 
Biga  Sher  Chai  535. 
Bijouville  352. 
El-Bika  483. 
Bir  el-Asli  286. 

—  Bou-Rekba  364. 
Birchircara  403. 
El-Bireh  468. 
Bir-Kassa  358. 
Birmandreis  231. 
Bir-Rabalou  248. 

—  Saad  385. 

—  Saadou  392. 

—  Sethil  284. 
Birtouta-Chebli  216. 
Birtraria  234. 
Biscay,  Bay  of  2. 
Biskra  279. 
Bithvnia  535.   576. 
Bittir  470. 
Bizerta  352. 

—  Hills  132. 
Bizerte,  Cap  de  129. 
— ,  Lac  de  352. 
Bizot  303. 

Black  Sea  561.   xxxiv. 
Blad-Guitoun  253. 

—  el-Hawa  297. 


582 


INDEX. 


Blanc,  Cap  (Algeria) 

243. 
— ,  —  (Tunisia)  129. 
Blanco,  Cabo  108. 
Klanquilla,  Torre  101. 
Bled  el-Adhar  387. 
Bleda  Islets  112. 
Bled  Bakora  244. 

—  el-Hamra  383. 

—  Maknassi  383. 

—  Zouarine  361. 
Blida  213. 
Bobadilla  57. 

Bocca  Grande,  the  (Cor- 
sica) 133. 

,  the  (near  Naples) 

118. 

—  Piccola  154. 
Bodes,  Pico  dos  26. 
Boeo,  Capo  153. 
Boghari  215. 
Boghaz,  Straits  of  418. 

—  Hissar  534. 
Boghni  254. 
Bolshoi  Fontan  561. 
Bomba,  Gulf  of  415. 
Bon,  Cape  153. 

Bona  (Bone)   309.    131. 
— ,  Gulf  of  128. 
Bone,  Plaine  de  308. 
Bonifacio  133. 
Boona      Promontorium 

575. 
Bordighera  113. 
Bordj  el-Amri  354. 
Bou-Arreridj  270. 

—  Cedria  364. 

—  Chegga  284. 

—  Djedid  327. 

—  Gouifla  386. 

Gourbel  358. 

Mgnaiel  253. 

—  Messaoudi  357. 

—  Mguitla  285. 

—  MouiatFerdjana285. 
el-Kaid  285. 

—  -R'dir  270. 

—  Saada  284. 

—  Sabath  307. 

—  Tamalous  303. 

—  Toum  329. 
Borgo  400. 

Bosporus  557.  xxxiv. 
Bostrenus,  the  469. 
Botte,  La  133. 
Bouak,  Cape  264. 
Bou-Arada  360. 

Arkoub  364. 

Boucai'd  209. 
Bou-Chebka  318. 
Chemma  389. 


Boudaroua  308. 
Boufarik  216. 
Bou-Ficha  365. 
Bougaroun   (or   Bouga- 

roni),  Cape  131. 
Bougdoura,  the  253. 
Boughzoul  215. 
Bougie  262. 
— ,  Anse  de  262. 
— ,  Gulf  of  130.  252. 
Bou-Grara,  Mer  de  392. 
Bougiina  303. 
Bou-Guetoub  201. 

—  -liuezoul  215. 

—  Hamdan  307. 
,  the  328. 

—  -Hamoud  244. 

—  Hamra,    Massif    du 
309. 

—  -Hanifia  200. 
Haroun  238. 

—  -Henni  206. 
Bouira  250. 
Bou-Kader  208. 

—  -Khalfa  254. 

—  -Ktoub  201. 
Boulima,  Cape  130. 
Boulogne  2. 
Bou-Medfa,  212. 

—  -Nouara  306. 
Bourdjine  379. 
Bou  er-Rebia  358. 
Bourkika  243. 
Bou-Saada  270. 

Sfer  184. 

Tldlis  185. 

Bouzar6ah  235. 

— ,  Mont  235. 
Bove,  Valle  del  159. 
Boz  Dagh  530. 

—  Tepeh  572. 

Burnu  576. 

Branis  278. 
Brefia  Baja  48. 
Brenes  68. 
Brindisi  429. 
Brioni,  Isole  429. 
Brussa  535. 

Bubana  Valley,  the  101. 
Bubastis  439. 
Bucca  Vallis  483. 
Bucina  144. 
Budelli,   Isola  dei  133. 
Budrum  490. 
Buena  Vista  48. 
Bufadero,  Valle  del  36. 
Bugeaud  311. 
Bugio  17. 
El-Bukeia  470. 
Bulak  ed-Dakrur  464. 
Bulgheria,   Monte   155. 


Bulgurlu,  Great  557. 
BulgurlukiOi  557. 
Bulla  Regia  326. 
Bullones,  Sierra  103. 
Bumeliana  411. 
Bu  Regreg  105. 
Burgas  562. 
Burin ola  400. 
Burnabad,  Bay  of  533. 
Busa,  Cape  415. 
Busi   129. 

liiiyiik  Chamlija  557. 
Biiyiikdereh  559. 
liiiyiik  Liman  560. 
Byzantium  541. 


Caceni  15. 
Cadiz  58. 
Cassarea  244. 
—  Palsestina  468. 
Cagliari  144. 
Cagna,     Montagne     de 
133. 

Cairo  439. 
Amru  Mosque  460. 
Aquarium  457. 
Atabet  el-Khadra 

446. 
Bab  el-Attaba  454. 

—  el-Azab  453. 

—  el-Futuh  449. 

—  el-Gedid  453. 

—  el-Mitwelli  450. 

—  en-Nasr  449. 

—  el-Wastani  453. 
Babylon  460. 

Bab  Zuweileh  450. 
Barkukiyeh  448. 
Beit  Gamal   ed-Din 

449. 
Bektashi,  Convent  of 

the  454. 
Bookbinder's    House 

449. 
Bftlak  454. 
Cabs  441. 
Cafes  440. 
Caliphs,  Tombs  of  the 

458. 
Citadel  453. 
Consulates  441. 
Dar  Beshtak  Palace 

448. 
Defterkhaneh  453. 
Electric  Railway  441. 
Ezbekiyeh  Garden 

445. 
Fatimite  City  446. 
Gamia  el-Ahmar448. 


INDEX. 


583 


Cairo : 

Gajnia   Arur   ibn    ol- 
Asi  460. 

—  el-Ashraf  446. 

—  el-Azhar  447. 

—  el-H;lkim  449. 

—  Sultan  Hasan  452. 

—  Ibn  Tulun  451. 

—  Emir  Kijmas  450. 

—  el-Merdani  450. 

—  Mohammed   Ali 
454. 

BeyAbuDahab 

447. 

—  el-Muaiyad  450. 

—  en-Nasir  453. 

—  Rifaiyeh  452. 

—  SalihTelayeh450. 

—  es-Seiyideh 
Zeinab  451. 

Gebel  Giyushi  454. 
Gezireh  or  Geziret 

Bulak  457. 
(iiza  Garden  457. 
Gizeh  461. 
Gouvernorat  450. 
Heliopolis  Oasis  459. 

—  -On  459. 
History  443. 

—  of  Art  444. 
Hotels  439. 
Ibrahim    Pasha, 

Statue  of  446. 
Ismailiyeh  454. 
Kalat  el-Kabsh  451. 
KariLf  et  Bab  el- Wezir 

454. 
Kasr  el-Aini  455. 

—  ed-Dubara  455. 
Khan  el-Khalili  446. 
Koubbeh,    Palais    de 

459. 

Library,  Khedivial 
151. 

Liinun  Bridge  445. 

Mameluke  Tombs 
458. 

Market  Quarter   116. 

Mausoleum  of  El- 
Ghuri  449. 

Medreseh  el-Ghuri 
449. 
Kait  Bey  451. 

—  Mohammed  en- 
Nasir  448. 

—  Serghatmash  452. 
Memphis  464. 
Metropolitan  Rail- 
way 441. 

Midan  Abdin  446. 

—  Ismailiyeh  455. 


Cairo : 

Ministries  455. 
Mokattam  Hills  454. 
Mosques,  see  Gamia. 
Muristan  Kalaun  448. 
Museum,  Arab  450. 
— ,  Egyptian  455. 
— ,  Geological  455. 
Muski  or  Mouski  446. 
New  Heliopolis  459. 
Nile  Bridge,  the 

Great  457. 
Okella    of    El-Ghuri 

449. 

—  of  Kait  Bey  448. 
Old  Cairo  460. 
Palace,  Khedivial  446. 
Place    Bab    el-Khalk 

450. 

—  de  l'Opera  446. 

—  Rumeileh  452. 
Polytechnic  School 

457. 
Post  Office  441. 
Railway  Stations  439. 
Restaurants  440. 
Roda  461. 
Sakkara  465. 
SebilAbd  er-Rahman 

448. 

—  of   the  Mother   of 
Abbas  I.  452. 

Sharia  el-Akkadin 
449. 

—  Bulak  454. 

—  Clot  Bey  445. 

—  el-Ghuriyeh  449. 

—  el-Gohergiyeh  448. 

—  Kasr  en-Nil  454. 

—  Khalig  el-Masri 
451. 

—  el-Marasin  451. 

—  el-Margush  el-Bar - 
rani  448. 

—  Mohammed  Ali 
450. 

—  en-Nahhasin   448. 
Shoemakers'   Market 

450. 
Sudan  Agency  455. 
Sukkariyeh  449. 
Suks  -446.  447. 
Telegraph  Office  441. 
Tewfikiyeh  454. 
Theatres  442. 
Tramways  440. 
Tribunaux  Mixtes 

446. 
University  455. 
Zoological  Garden 

457. 


|    Cala,  La  147. 

|    Calabria  155.  xxxi. 

Calaburras,    Punta    de 
111. 

Cala  Grande  123. 

Calama  308. 

Calatha  132. 

Calceus  Herculis  276. 

Caldera,  the  48. 

—  de  Bandama  46. 
Caleta  56. 
Calheta  26. 
Calle,  La  131. 
Camacba  27. 
Camara  de  Lobos  25. 
Camarat,  Cape  112. 
Campagna,  Roman  135. 
Campagne  Bellevue 

(near  Algiers)  231. 
Campanella,    Punta   di 

154. 
Campanillas  88. 
Camp-des-Chfines  215. 

du-Mareehal  253. 

Campidano  146. 
Campo  (fort)  203. 
Campolato,  Capo  162. 
Campolide  15. 
Cana  469. 
Canadas,  the  41. 
Canal  d'Oro  529. 
Canales,  Punta  5. 
Canario,  Pico  25. 
Canary  Islands  28. 
Canastel,  Pointe  184. 
Candelaria  36. 
Candia  415. 

—  (town)  416. 
Canea  415. 
Cane  Mons  533. 
Cani,  I  129. 
Canigal  21. 
Cannes  112. 
Canrobert  273. 
Cantales,  Punta  de  los 

89. 
Cantin,  Cape  108. 
Capanne,  Monte  143. 
Capo,   Lo   (Capri)    154. 
Cappuccini,   Monte  dei 

428. 
Capraia  (Caprarial  148. 
Caprera  133. 
Capri  146.  154. 
Capsa  384. 
Caput  Vada  370. 
Carales  144. 
Carambis  Promonto- 

rium  576. 
Caramu  124. 
Caramuja,  Serra  de  27. 


584 


INDEX. 


Caravanserail  de 
l'Oued-Massin  210. 

Carbon,  Cape  264. 

Carbonara,    Capo    144. 

Caria  490. 

Carlentini,  Pantano  di 
159. 

Carmel,  Mt.  468. 

Carnero,  Punta  6. 

Carpis  364. 

Cartagena  125. 

— ,  Cape  351. 

Ciirtama  88. 

Carteia  54. 

Cartenna  209. 

Carthage  343. 

— ,  Cape  351. 

Cartima  88. 

Cartina,  Monti  159. 

Carvoeiro,  Cabo  4. 

Carycium  Promon- 
torium  491. 

Casablanca  107. 

Casaa  275. 

Casal  Krendi  403. 

—  Paula  402. 
Cascaes,  Bay  of  4. 
Cassarin,  Anse  du  309. 
Cassis  132. 
Casteddu  144. 
Castellammare,  Fort 

(Palermo)  147. 
— ,  Gulf  of  152. 

—  del  Golfo  153. 
Castellum     du     Nador 

242. 

—  Peregrinorum    468. 

—  Tingitanum  209. 
Castiglione  238. 

— ,  Bay  of  237. 
— ,  Promontory  of  135. 
Catalfano,   Monte   147. 
Catalonia  119. 
Catania  160. 
— ,  Piana  di  159. 
Catona  159. 
Caucasus  Mts.  570. 
Cavallo  267. 
— ,  Cape  130.  267. 
— ,  Salto  del  183. 
Cavoli,   Isola  dei   118. 
Caxine,  Cape  237. 
Cayster,  the  491. 
Cazza  429. 
Cedadda  388. 
Cedouikeche  394. 
Cedres,  Pic  des  275. 
Cedro,  Pico  del  48. 
Cefalonia  500. 
Celadussse  Insulse  429. 
Cembalo  569. 


Cephalus  (headland) 

412. 
Cerceteus  Mons  491. 
Cercina  405. 
Cercinitis  405. 
Cerigo  494. 
Cerro  del  Sol  74. 
Ceuta  103. 

Cevada,  Cova  da  26. 
Chabet  el-Akra  268. 

—  es-Setif  270. 
Chabia  387. 
Chacals,    Col   des    311. 
Chafarinas  Islands  124. 
Chahorra  42. 
(haiba,    Foret   de   213. 
Chalcedon  536. 

Chal  Dagh  574. 

Chalet     de     Taourirt- 
Ighil  261. 

Chalki  535. 

Chalti  Burnu  575. 

Chambceuf,  Col  306. 

Chambre,  Fort  404. 

Chanak  Kalesi  534. 

Chandarli,  Bay  of  533. 

Chania  415. 

Channel  Islands  2. 

Chao  17. 

Chaouach  328. 

Chaouat  351. 

Chapeau  de  Gendarme 
315. 

Charki  492. 

Charon  208. 

Charrie.r  201. 

Chasseloup-Laubat  271. 

Chateaudun  -  du  -  Rhu- 
mel  272. 

Chateau-Neuf  (near  Al- 
giers) 234. 

Chatyr  Dagh  568. 

Chaves,  Montana  de  38. 

Chebba  370. 

Chebka  216. 

Chelif,  the  208. 

Chellata,  Col  de  260. 

Chelonatas    (headland) 
502. 

Chemtou  326. 

Chenacha  Mts.  258. 

Chenes,  Les  327. 

ChengelkiSi  558. 

Chenini  (near  Douirat) 
392. 

—  (near  Gabes)  390. 
Chenoua,  Baie  du  242. 
— ,  Cape  242. 

— ,  Plage  242. 
Cheraga  234. 
Cherchell  244. 


Cherchell  Aqueduct 

243. 
Chersonese,   Cape  569. 
Chersonesos  415. 
Chersonesus,  Thracian 

534. 

—  Cnidia  490. 

—  Promontorium  118. 

—  Rhodia  490. 

—  Taurica  568. 
Cheshmeh  493. 
Chetma  284. 
Chiavari  134. 
Chibukli  559. 
Chidibbia  354. 
Chiens,  Col  des  279. 
Chiffa  213. 

— ,   Gorges    de   la   215. 

Chiffalo  238. 

Chikly,  Island  of  129. 

Chiliga  Burnu  562. 

Chioggia  427. 

Chios  492. 

Chiva  575. 

Choba  267. 

Chornoye  More  561. 

Chorro  88. 

Chott  ech-Chergui  169. 

—  Djerid  387. 

—  el-Fedjedj  389. 

—  Gharbi  169. 

—  el-Hodna  270.  169. 

—  Melrir  284. 

—  Merouan  284. 

—  Mzouri  274. 

—  Rharsa  386. 
Choucht  el-Ihoudi  286. 
Christiana  492. 
Chrysokeras  555. 
Chrysorrhoas,  the  484. 
Chullu  131. 
Chylimath,  the  208. 
Ciani  162. 

Ciclopi,  Scogli  de'  159. 
Cidrao,  Pico  25. 
Cillium  371. 
Cilma  371. 
Cimmerian    Bosporus 

570. 
Cinque  Terre  134. 
Cinto,  Monte  143. 
Cintra  15. 
Ciotat,  La  132. 
Circeo,  Monte  135. 
Ciris,  Cape  5. 
Cirta  298. 
Cissi  255. 
Cittanuova  429. 
Citta  Vecchia  403. 
Ciudadela  127. 
Civitavecchia  135. 


INDEX. 


585 


Clairefontaine  314. 
Clupea  405. 
Cnidos  490. 
Oochinos,  Los  58. 
Coelesyria  483. 
Colchis  570. 
Col-des-Oliviers  303. 
Ooldirodi  113. 
Collares,Caminho  del6. 
Collo  131. 
— ,  Sahel  of  169. 
Colonia    Cillitana   371. 

—  Claudia  Caesarea  244. 
Coloniie  Cirtenses  298. 
Colonia  Julia  Augusta 

Felix  Berytus  482. 

—  Julia  Carthago  345. 

—  Mareiana    Trajana 
Thamugadi  289. 

—  MinerviaChullul31. 

—  Veneria    Rusieade 
304. 

—  Zilis  Constantia  104. 
Colonna,  Cape  529. 
Colophon  491. 
Columbretes       Islands 

119. 
Comino  397. 
— ,  Capo  144. 
Conca  d'Oro  148. 
Concepeion,  La  92. 
Conde-Sinendou  303. 
Conejera  112. 
Conero,  Monte  428. 
Confital  Bav  43. 
Couil  58. 
Constantiana  563. 
Constantine  297. 
— ,  Cape  568. 

Constantinople  536. 

Aivan  Serai  555. 

Kapu  554. 

Ak  Serai  553. 

Antiquities,    Collec- 
tion of  546. 

Aqueduct  of  Valens 
552. 

Arcadius,  Column  of 
553. 

Artillery  Barracks 
544. 

At  Mei'dan  549. 

Augusteion  549. 

Avret  Bazar  553. 

Aya   Sophia   Me'idau 
549. 

Bab  i  Huuiayun  518. 

Baglar  Bashi  557. 

Balat  555. 

Bazaar,  Great  551. 


Constantinople : 

Beshiktash  544. 
Bezestan  551. 
Bit  Bazar  Jaddesi 

551. 
Blachernse    Quarter, 

Wall  of  the  554. 
Brachionion  554. 
Bridges  545.  552. 
British  Embassy  544. 
Bulgurlu,  Great  557. 
Bulgurlukioi  557. 
Burnt  Column  550. 
Biivtlk  Chamlija  557. 
Cabs  538. 
Cafe's  537. 
Cemeteries: 

British  557. 

Greek  554. 

Moslem  553.  557. 
Chamlija  Spring  557. 
Chemberli  Tash  550. 
Chinili  Kiosque  547. 
Colossus  550. 
Consulates  539. 
Defterdar  Iskelesi 

555. 
Ecuries  Imperiales 

544. 
Edirneh  Kapu  553. 
Egri  Kapu  554. 
Emperor  ClaudiusIL, 

Column  of  546. 
EnglishChurches539. 
Exchange  543. 
Eyub  555. 
Fountains    543.    544. 

548.  549. 
Galata  542.     . 

—  Quay  543. 

—  Serai  541. 

—  Tower  543. 
Golden  Horn  555. 
(irande   Rue   de  Ga- 
lata 545. 

de  Pera  543. 

Harbours  555. 

Haii'm-Iskelesi  556. 

Haskibi  555. 

History  Oil. 

Hotels"  537. 

Irene,  Church  of  548. 

Janissaries,  Bar- 
racks of  the  553. 

Janissaries'  Museum 
550. 

—  Plane  Tree  548. 
Jubali  Kapu  555. 
Kalijeh  Oglu  555. 
Kalpakjilar  Bashi 

Jaddesi  551. 


Constantinople : 

Kasim  Pasha,  Bav  of 

555. 
Kerkoporta  554. 
Kiathaneh  556. 
Land- Wall  553. 
Leander's  Tower  556. 
Local  Steamers  538. 
Lykos  Valley  553. 
Marcian's  Column 

553. 
Mermer  Kuleh  554. 
Military  Hospital 

(Haid'ar  Pasha)  557. 

—  Museum  548. 
Ministry    of   Justice 

548. 

—  of  Marine  555. 
Mint  546. 

Missir  Charshi  545. 
Monastery  of  the 

Dancing  Dervishes 

543. 

—  of  the  Howling- 
Dervishes  557. 

Mosques: 

Ahmed  I.  550. 

Arab  543. 

Asab  Kapu  543. 

Aya  Sophia  548. 

Bayazid  551. 

Biiyiik  556. 

Eyub  555. 

Fatih   552. 

Hamidieh  544. 

Jihangir  544. 

Kahrieh  553. 

Kilij  Ali  Pasha545. 

Kuc-htlk     Aya    So- 
phia 550. 

Mahmud  II.  54-1. 

Mehmedieh  552. 

Mihrimah  553. 

Mohammed  II.  552. 

Nuri  Osmanieh  550. 

Rustem  Pasha  515. 

Selim  I.  553. 

Shahzadeh  552. 

Suleiman  the  Great 
552. 

Valideh  514. 

Yeni  Valideh   545. 

—  • —  (Scutari)  556. 
Museum,  New  546. 
Nuri  Osmanieh  Kapu 

551. 
Obelisk    of   Theodo- 

sius  I.  549. 
Oriental  Art  Museum 

547. 
Orta  Kapu  548. 


586 


INDEX. 


Constantinople : 
Ortakjilar  554. 
Onsoun  Tcharchi  551. 
Palaces : 

Blachernae  554. 

Chiragan  Serai  558. 

Dolma  Bagcheh 
544.  558. 

Podestii  543. 

Seraglio  548. 
Pentapyrgion  554. 
Pera  543. 

Petits  Champs  544. 
Phanar  555. 
Place  Dolma  Bagtche 

DertS  544. 

—  du  Taxim  545. 

—  Emin  Eunou  545. 
Porta  Aurea  554. 
Post  Offices  538. 
Public  Grounds  544. 

549. 
Restaurants  537. 
Robert  College  558. 
Rue  deKarakeui  543. 

—  Divan  Yolou  550. 
St.  George,  Church  of 

553. 
Salajak  556. 
School  of  Art  51(3. 
Scutari  556. 
Sea  Walls   541.   554. 
Second-Hand  Market 

551. 
Seraglio  or  Serai'  546. 
Serai  Mei'dan  548. 
Seraskerat  551. 
Serasker  Kapu  551. 

—  Tower  551. 
Sheikh  ul-Islam,  Re- 
sidence of  the  552. 

Snake  Column  549. 
So-uk  Cheshmeh  Gate 

546. 
Stambul  545. 

—  Liman  556. 
Sublime  Porte  546. 
Sweet  Waters  of 

Europe  556. 
Taxim  Park  544. 
Tekfur  Serai  554. 
Telegraph  Offices  538. 
Ters  Haneh  555. 
Theatre  539. 
Top  Haneh  544. 

—  Kapu  554. 

Sera'i  546. 

Towers  of  Isaak  An- 

gelos  and  Anemas 
554. 
Tramways  538. 


Constantinople : 

Tunnel  Line  538. 
Tiirbeh  Kheireddin 
Barbarossa  544. 

—  of  Mahmud  II.  550. 

—  of  Roxolana  552. 

—  of  Suleiman  552. 
UskUdar  556. 
Valideh  Han  551. 
Yanik  Kapu  543. 
Yedi  Kuleh  554. 
Yemish  Iskelesi  555. 
Yeni  Mahallah  557. 
Yildiz    Kiosque   544. 
Ytlksek  Kaldirim 

543. 

Constantza  563. 
Contraviesa,  Sierra  112. 
Cora  282. 

Corbelin,  Cape  130. 
Corcyra  497.    . 
Cordova  68. 
Corfu  496. 
Corinth  502. 
— ,  Gulf  of  501. 
Corregos,  Bocca  dos  26. 
Corse,  Cape  143. 
Corsica  133. 
Corso-Tahtani  249. 
Cortadas  Pass  or 
Cortado,    Bocca  do    27. 
Corunna  3. 
Cos  490. 
Cospicua  400. 
Courbet  253. 
Couronne,   Cap  119. 
Crampel  186. 
Cretan  Sea  492.  416. 
Crete  415. 
Crimea  568.  xxxiv. 
Croisette,  Cap  119. 
Cruz,  Pico  da  26. 
— ,  Pico  da  Ponta  da  25. 
— ,  Ponta  da  21. 

—  Alta  16. 

—  de  Afur  37. 

—  el  Carmen  37. 

—  de  Taganana  37. 
Oruzinhas    Ridge,    the 

27. 
Cuccio,  Monte  147. 
Cuesta  36. 
Cueva  de  Menga  72. 
Cuicul  272. 
Cumse  137. 
Cumbre,  the  37. 
Cumbrecita  48. 
Cumbre  Nueva  48. 

—  Vieja  48. 

Curra,  Dique  de  la  125. 


Curral,  Gran  or 

—  das  Freiras  25. 

—  dos  Romeiros  or 
Curralinho  24. 
Cyanean  Islands  560. 
Cyclades  492.  xxxii. 
Cynossema,   Cape  490. 
Cyprus  489. 
Cyrenaica  413. 
Cyrene  414. 


Dahar  Cliffs  405. 
Dahra,  the  208.  169. 
Dahshur  464. 
Dakla,  the  326. 
Damanhur  437. 
Damascus  484. 
Damesme  199. 
Damietta  418 
Damous  el-Karita  349. 
Damremont  303. 
Dar  el-Aroussa  279. 
Dar  el-Beida  107. 
Dar-Chabane  365. 
Dardanelles  (strait) 
534.  xxxiv. 

—  (town)  534. 
Dardanos  534. 
Darna  259. 
Darnis  (Darnse)  414. 
Dar  el-Oued  267. 

—  -Raous,    Plaine   de 
279. 

Darro,  the  74. 
Daya  Morselli  185. 
Debabcha  388. 
Debila  285. 
Debrousseville  200. 
Deggach  388. 
Deir  Aban  470. 
Delimara  Point  411. 
Dellys  254. 
— ,  Cape  254. 
Delos  417. 
Demirdash  459. 
Demonnesoi,    the    53r>. 
Depienne  358. 
Derat  469. 
Dermeche  344. 
Derna  414. 
Desaix  242. 
Desertas  17.  20. 
Devna  Canal  562. 
Dia  416. 
Diakophto  501. 
DianaVeteranorum  275. 
Diaplo  496. 
Dikili  Cliffs  560. 
Dikte  492. 
Dimaski  485. 


INDEX. 


587 


Dimislik  481. 
Diospolis  470. 
DivaCa  427. 
Divo  Cliff  569. 
Djava  390. 
Djebel-Abiod  328. 

—  -Djelloud  358. 

—  -Oust  358. 
Djedeida  329. 
Djehim  387. 
Djelfa  215. 
El-Djern  379. 
Djemaa  285. 
Djemaa  Ford,  the  257. 

—  el-Ghazaouat  198. 
Djemila  272. 
Djemmal  369. 
Djemmorah  278. 
Djenien-bou-Resg   203. 
Djerba  393. 

Djerda  131. 
Djeribia  130. 
Djerid,  the  386. 
Djerman-Tahtani  203. 
Djezira  el-Kebira   352. 
Djidiouia  208. 
Djidjelli  267. 
Djilma  371. 
Djinet,  Cape  253. 
Djorf  Bou-Grara  392. 
Djurdjura,    Canton   du 
258. 

—  Mts.  258.  169. 
Dniester  Liman  564. 
Dobruja  562. 
Dodekanesos  490. 
Dolma  Bagcheh  558. 
Doraaine  de  l'Habra  et 

do  la  Macta  200. 

—  de  Oued-Melah  389. 
Donusa  117. 

D.'ir    168. 

Doris   490. 

Doro,  Straits  of  529. 

Douaouda-les-Bains 

238. 
Douar  ech-Chott  844. 
Dougga  355. 
Douirat  392. 
Douro,  the  3. 
Draa,  the  93. 
Drago,  Punta  del  33. 
Dragonera  112. 
Draht  en-Nadour  387. 
Drah  Tozeur  387. 
I)  r:\-Kalawi  268. 
I>ra  ol-Khemis,  Col  de 

250. 

—  el-Mizan  254. 
Drea  311. 
Drepana  153. 


Drepano,  Cape  416. 
Drepanon  530. 
Drinaupa  117. 
Droh  284. 
Dukato,  Kavo  500. 
Dumniar  484. 
Dunes,  Les  237. 
Duperre  210. 
Dutertre  210. 
Duveyrier  203. 
Duvivier  308. 
Duzerville  309. 
Dyo  Adelphia  530. 
Dvr  el-Kef  357. 


Eaux-Chaudes,  Les  201. 
Ebba-Ksour  361. 
Edough,  Mount  128. 131. 
E^tioneia  (peninsula) 

495. 
Eghris,   Plaine  d'   200. 
Ekron  470. 
Elasa  492. 
Elba  143. 

Elbruz   or  Elburz  570. 
Eleusis  502. 
Eleutheros,  the  469. 
Elia,  Monte  155. 
Elvira,  Sierra  73. 
Embabeh  464. 
Emine,  Cape  562. 
Emirgian  559. 
Empalme  de  Moron  57. 
Emporia,  the  389. 
Encumeada  Alta  27. 
Enfida,  the  365. 
Enfidaville  365. 
Ephesus  491. 
Epipolae  165. 
Epomeo,  Monte   185. 
Equizetum  270. 
Eregli  535. 
Erekli  576. 
—  Burnu   572. 
Eremonisia  417. 
Erg  Oriental  285. 
Erieusa  (Lipari  Is.)  l  Hi. 
Erikusa  (Othouian  Is.) 

496. 
Erythra  493. 
Erythrum  414. 
Kryx  153. 
Escalona  42. 
Escornbrera  125. 
F.ski  StambnJ,  Cape  533. 
El-Esnarn  261. 
Espichel,  Cabo  de  5. 
Espig6n  Hill,  the  42. 
Esrah,  Pointe  131. 
Estreito  26. 


Eubcea  529. 
Euhesperidae  413. 
Eulmas,  Plaine  des  272. 
Europa  Pass  55. 
—  Point  55. 
Euryelus  166. 
Eyub  555. 

Ezbet  ez-Zeitun  459. 
Eze  112. 


Fahass  or 
El-Fahs  99. 
El-Faidja  203. 
Fai'djet  el-Betourn  202. 
Fajaa  dos  Padres  26. 
Falaises,  Grandes  267. 
— ,  Promenade  des  184. 
Falcon,  Cape  125. 
Falcone,  Monte  153. 
— ,  Punta  del  133. 
Fanaraki  560. 
Fanar  Burnu  535. 
Faraglioni,  the  155. 
Farina,  Cape  129. 
Faro  158. 
— ,  Capo  del  117. 
Fassa,  Cape  529. 
Kavifniana  153. 
Fayal  27. 
Fedalah  107. 
Fed  ja  Grandpre  320. 
Fedj  el-Makta,   Col  de 
312. 

—  el-Tameur  362. 
Feghiha  castia  tria  201. 
Felix-Faure  253. 
Fenai'a,   Valley   of  the 

261. 
Fener  Bagcheh  535. 
Fenerkioi  560. 
Feno,  Capo  di  133. 
Feodossiya  570. 
Fer,  Cap  de  131. 

—  a  Cheval  184. 
Feriana  371. 
Fermatou  269. 
Ferme,    La    (near    Or- 

leansville)  209. 

—  Demonchy  239. 

—  Dufourg  279. 

—  du  Rocher-Plat  239. 

—  Seuillet  238. 
-  Tazout  184. 

—  Tremaux  243. 
Fernana  327. 
Fernandea,  Isola  154. 
Fcrnan  Nunez  72. 
Ferrat,  Cape  112. 
Ferrato,  Capo  144. 
Ferrau,  Monte  144. 


588 


INDEX. 


Ferro,  Capo  di  133. 
Perryville  352. 
Fesd'is  275. 
Fetatcha  278. 
Fetzara,  Lac  303. 
Ficheur,  Pic  254. 
Fidonisi  564. 
Figalo,  Cape  125. 
Figuier,    Plaine   du 

185. 
Figuig  204. 
Fil  Burnu  560. 
Filfola  411. 
Pilicuri  146. 
Filliache  283. 
Finale  Marina  113. 
Finisterre,  Cape  3. 
Fiolente,  Cape  569. 
Flavia  Neapolis  468. 
Fleurus  199. 
Poja  530. 
Follonica  134. 
Fondouk  Djedid  364. 

—  el-Kantara  353. 
Fontaine-Chaude  (near 

Batna)  274. 
(near  Biskra)  283. 

—  des  Gazelles  278. 

Fraiche  260. 

Fora,  Ilheo  de  20. 
Forja  (island)  25. 
Forrnentera  126. 
Formentor,  Cape  112. 
Formiche   di    Grosseto 

135. 
Foros,   Church   of  569. 
Fortaleza,  the  42. 
Fortassa  208. 
Fort-de-1'Eau  248.  127. 
Forte  Ihleo  24. 
Fort  Jemil  418. 

—  l'Empereur  127. 
National  257. 

—  Sanjak  Kalesi  530. 
Fostat  443. 
Fouka-Marine  238. 
Foum  Ksantina  296. 

—  Tizourit  273. 
Fountains,    Great   and 

Little  568. 
Fraile,  Punta  del  6. 
Frailes,  the  112. 
Fratelli,  the  132. 
Frenda  208. 
Fretum  Gaditanurn  or 

Herculeum  5. 

—  Siculum  155. 
Fuencaliente  48. 
Fuente  de  Santa  Cata- 

lina  43. 

—  Piedra  72. 


Fumm  es-Sahara  276. 
Funchal  21. 
Furado,  Levada  do  27. 
— ,  Ponta  do  20. 


Gabes  389. 
— ,  Gulf  of  381. 
Gabes-Port  390. 
Gades  58. 

Gador,  Sierra  de  112. 
Gaeta,  Gulf  of  135. 
Gaffour  360. 
Gafsa  383. 
Gagry  570. 

Gai'daronisi  (island  in 
Gulf  of  ^gina)    529. 

—  (island  near  Samos) 
490. 

—  (island  near  Tene- 
dos)  533. 

Galata,  Cape  562. 

Galati  158. 

Galera,  La  162. 

Galcras,  Gastillo  de  las 
125. 

Galeres,  the  101. 

Galilee  469. 

Galite,  He  de  la  132. 

Galland,  Pic  de  258. 

Gallico  159. 

Gallinaria  113. 

Gallipoli  535. 

Gallo,  Cape  (near  Pa- 
lermo) 152. 

— ,  Capo  (near  Brindisi) 
429. 

Gambetta  184. 

Gafianias,  Montana  de 
las  38. 

Ganzirri,    Lago  di  158. 

Garaa  Mabtouha  351. 

Garaet  Ichkeul  or  Ach- 
kel  352. 

—  el-Oglal  385. 

—  et-Tarf  273. 
Garajao,  Cabo  do  21. 
Garde,  Cap  de3ll.  128. 
Gardes,  Ravin  des  275. 
Gargano,  Monte  428. 
Garitza  498. 
Gasturi  499. 

Gata,  Cabo  de  112. 
— ,  Cape  489. 
Gaucin  56. 
Gaulos  404. 
Gavdos  418. 
Gazules,  Sierra  delos  6. 
Gebel  Tuna  464. 
Gedis  Chai,  the  530. 
Gemlek,  Gulf  of  535. 


Genii  72.  74. 

Gennesaret,  Lake  of 
469. 

Genoa  113. 

— ,  Gulf  of  113.  134. 

Genoese    Castle    (Bos- 
porus) 560. 

Genov^s,  Puerto  112. 

Geraneia  494. 

Gergarish  411. 

Gergis  392. 

Gerizim,  Mt.  468. 

Geryville  201. 

Gezer  470. 

Gezireh  or 

Geziret  Bulak  457. 

—  Tirsa  464. 
El-Gharbia  104. 
Ghardaia  216. 
Ghardiuiaou  325. 
Ghaudex  404. 
Ghennouch  389. 
Gherines  414. 
Gianitsades  492. 
Giannutri  135. 
Giant's  Mt.  559. 
Giardini-Taormina  158. 
Giarre  158. 
Gibralfaro  89. 
Gibraltar  52. 

— ,  Bay  of  6. 
— ,  Straits  of  5.  xxix. 
Gightis  392. 
Giglio  135. 
Gihon  480. 
Gioia,  Bay  of  155. 
Gir,  Cape  110. 
Girao,  Cabo  25. 
El-Gisr  438. 
Giurdan  Hill  396. 
Gizeh  461. 
Glacieres,  Les  215. 
Gobantes  88. 
El-Golca  216. 
Goletta  343.  129. 
Gomera  28.  30. 
Goni  Islands  493. 
Gorgolho  25. 
Gorgona  143. 
Gornalunga  159. 
Goshen  438. 
Goulette,  La  343. 

—  Neuve,  La  344. 
Gourara,  Bassin  du 

170. 
Govino,  Bay  of  500. 
Gozo  (Gavdos)  418. 

—  (Malta)  403.  397. 
Goz  Tepeh  532. 
Grabusa  415. 
Graiba  383. 


INDEX. 


589 


Granada  73. 
-    Alameda  77. 
—  del  Darro  78. 
Albaicin,  the  74.  79. 
Albaida  78. 
Alcaiceria  76. 
Alhambra  79. 
Abencerrages,  Hall 

of  the  84. 
Adarves,  Jardin  de 

los  82. 
Alcazaba  81. 
Alhambra  Palace 
82. 

—  Vase  85. 

Alta  Alhambra  86. 
Ambassadors,  Hall 

of  the  83. 
Aposentos  de  Car- 
los Quinto  86. 
Baths  85. 
Capilla  85. 
Carmen  de  Arratia 

86. 
Casa  Real  82. 
Comares,  Torre  de 

83. 
Cuarto  Dorado   85. 
Ghafar  82. 
Lions,  Court  of  the 

84. 
Mexuar  85. 
Mezquita  Real  86. 
Mirador  de  Daraxa 

85. 
Moorish  Chapel  86. 
Mosala  85. 
Myrtle  Court  83. 
Palace  of  Charles  V. 

86. 
Park  80. 
Patio  deDaraxa86. 

—  de  la  Alberca  83. 

—  de  la  Reja  86. 

—  del  Mexuar  85. 

—  de  los  Arrayanes 
83. 

—  de  los  Leones  84. 
Peinador  de  la  Rei- 

na  86. 
Puerta    de    Hierro 
87. 

—  de  la  Alcazaba 
81. 

—  de  las  Granadas 
80. 

—  del  Carril  81. 

—  de  los  Siete  Sue- 
los  87. 

—  del  Vino  81. 

—  Judiciaria  81. 


Granada : 

Alhambra : 
Rauda  85. 
Sala  de  la  Barca 
83. 

—  de  la  Justicia  84. 

—  de  las  Camas  86. 

—  de  las  Dos  Her- 
manas  85. 

—  de  los  Ajimeces 
85. 

—  de  los  Embaja- 
dores  83. 

—  de  los  Mocarabes 
84. 

—  de  los  Reyes  84. 

—  del  Tribunal  84. 
Santa  Maria, 

Church  of  86. 
Torre  de  laCautiva 
87. 

—  del  Agua  87. 

—  de  las  Damas  86. 

—  de  las  Infantas 
87. 

—  de  la  Vela  82. 

—  del  Homenaje 
81. 

—  de  los  Picos  87. 

—  del  Peinador  86. 

—  Quebrada  81. 
Torres  Bermejas 

80. 

Tortosa,   House  of 
81. 

Two   Sisters,   Hall 
of  the  85. 

Viaduct  85. 

Zaguan  85. 
Assabica,    Monte   de 

la  79. 
Audiencia  78. 
Ayuntamiento  76. 
Banuelo  78. 
Cabs  73. 
Caf<5s  73. 
Calle  de  los  Reyes 

Catolicos  75. 
Camino  del  Sacro 

Monte  78. 
Capilla  Real  76. 
Carrera  del  Darro  78. 

—  del  Genii  77. 
Casa  de  Castril  78. 

—  del  Cabildo  Anti- 
gua 77. 

—  del  Carbon  76. 

—  del  Chapiz  78. 

—  de  los  Tiros  77. 
Castle-  Wall  79. 
Cerro  del  Sol  74. 


Baedeker's  Mediterranean. 


Granada : 

Churches : 
Cathedral  76. 
Sagrario  77. 
San    Juan    de    los 
Reyes  79. 

—  Nicolas  79. 

—  Pedro  y   San 
Pablo  78. 

Santa  Ana  78. 

Santo  Domingo  77. 
Cuarto  Real  de  Santo 

Domingo  77. 
Cuesta  del  Chapiz  78. 

—  del  Rey  Chico  78. 
Cuevas  78. 
Generalife  87. 
Gran  Via    de    Colon 

75. 
Hotels  73. 
Isabella  the  Catholic, 

Statue  of  77. 
Lonja  77. 
Mauror,  Monte  80. 
Miradores  87. 
Paseo   del  Salon   77. 

—  del  Triunfo  75. 
Patio  de  los  Cipreses 

87. 
Placeta  de  la  Lonja 
77. 

—  de  las  Pasiegas  76. 
Plaza  de  Bibarrambla 

76. 

—  Nueva  78. 
Post  Office  73. 
Puerta  de  Elvira  75. 

—  de  los  Estandartes 
79. 

—  Monaita  79. 
Sacro  Monte  78. 
Sagrario  77. 

San  Miguel  el  Alto  79. 
Santa  Isabel  la  Real, 

Nunnery  of  79. 
Silla  del  Moro  88. 
Tramways  73. 

Gran  Canaria  or 
Grand  Canary  43. 
Grand-Cavallo,   He   du 

131. 
Grande-Porte  270. 
Grandes  Falaises   267. 
Grand  Rocher  237. 
Granikos,  the  535. 
Granitola,  Punta  di  154. 
Gran  Sasso  d'Italia428. 
Greco,  Capo  489. 
Grieta,    Roques    de   la 

42. 

38 


590 


INDEX. 


Grifone,  Monte  147. 
Grignano,  427. 
Grombalia  364. 
Grosa,  Punta  112. 
Grossa  Island  429. 
Guadaira  57. 
Guadajoz  68. 
— ,  the  72. 
Guadalete  59. 
Guadalevin  56. 
Guadalhoroe  72.  88. 
Guadalmedina  89. 
Guadalquivir  50.    61. 

XXX. 

Guadarranque  56. 
Guadiana  Menor  50. 
Guadiaro,  the  56. 
Guajara  Hill,  the  42. 

—  Pass  42. 
Guallala  394. 
Guamaza  47. 
Guanarteme,  Istmo  de 

43. 
Guancha  43. 
— ,  Pinal  de  la  42. 
Guardia,  Cap  129. 
— ,  Punta  della  133. 

—  Vecchia  133. 
Guebba  388. 
Gu6-de-Constantine 

217. 

—  du  Nador  243. 
Guelma  308. 
Guelt  es-Stel  215. 
Guerdjoum  200. 
Guergour,  Massif  de 

269. 
Guerra,  Valle  de  38. 
El-Guerrah  272. 
Guerrara  216. 
El-Guettar  385. 
Gtiimar  36. 
— ,  Garganta  de  40. 
Guiniguada,    Barranco 

de  44. 
Gtlmushkhaneh  574. 
Gurena  414. 
Gursuff  570. 
Guyotville  237. 
Gtlzel  Hissar  558. 


Habel,  El-  284. 
Habibas,  Isles  125. 
Habra,  the  200. 
Hacho,  Sierra  del  88. 
Hadege  391. 
El-Hadet  483. 
Hadid,  Cape  109. 
Hadjar-Roum  186. 
Hadjeb  el-AIoun  371. 


Hadrumetum  367. 
Haffet  el-Beida_104. 
El-Haffey  385. 
Hagiar  Kim  403. 
Hagi  Deka  499. 
Hagios  Dimitrios  Tepeh 

—  Elias  (Chios)  529. 
(Eubcea)  529. 

—  Georgios  494. 
Islands  533. 

—  Joannes  530. 

—  Theodoros  499. 
Hagiostrati  536. 
Haha  110. 
Haidar  Pasha  536. 
Haidra  362. 
Haifa  468. 
Halikarnassus  490. 
Halonnesos  536. 
Hal  Saflieni  402. 
Halys,  the  575. 
El-Hamel  271. 
El-Hamma  (near  Gabes) 

388. 
Hamnia,  Le  303. 
Hammada  Kessera  360. 
El-Hamma    du    DjeYid 

(near  Tozenr)  387. 
Hammam  271. 

—  Bou-Hadjar  184. 

—  Bou-Hanifia  200. 

—  -Darradji  326. 
Hammamet  364. 
Hammam-Foukani  205. 

—  -Guergour  269. 
El-Hammamin  205. 
Hammam-Lif  363. 

Melouan  248. 

Meskoutine  307. 

—  Ouled-Khaled  201. 

—  Rhira  212. 

—  es-Salahin  283. 

—  Sidi-Cheikh  198. 

el-Hadj  278. 

M'Cid  302. 

Sliman  212. 

—  Sousse  366. 

—  -Tahtani  205. 
Hamrun  403. 
Hamza,  Plaine  du  250. 
El-Hanaiat,  Col  d'  262. 
Hara-Kebira  394. 

—  -Serira  894. 
Harmyro  Bay  416. 
Hasi-ben-Hedjir  203. 
Hassasna,  the  201. 
Hauran  489. 
Haussonvillers  258. 
Haut  -  Mornag  -  Or6t6- 

ville  358. 


El- Haw  am  diy  eh  464. 
Hekatonesoi  533. 
Helena  529. 
Heliopolis  Oasis  459. 

On  459. 

Hellespont  534. 
Henchir    Bou-Chateur 
353. 

—  Bou-Garfa  388. 

—  Fradiz  365. 
Kasbat  359. 

—  Maatria  855. 

—  Mest  857. 

—  Sbia  370. 

—  Sidi  Ali  Bel-Kassem 
325. 

—  Souatir  372. 
Hennaya  185. 
Heraclea   Pontica   576. 
Heracleum     Promonto- 

riurn  575. 
Heraklea  535. 
Herakleion  416. 
Herbillon  131. 
Hercules  Grotto  102. 
Hergla  365. 
El-Heri  329. 
Hermon,  Mt.  489. 
Hermonassa  574. 
Hermopolis  Parva  437. 
Hermos,  the  530. 
Hidalgo,  Punta  del  37. 
Hielo,  Cueva  del  42. 
Hiera  153. 

Hieron  (Bosporus)  560 
— ,  Cape  574. 
Hierosolyma  472. 
Hillil,  L'  207. 
Hippo  Diarrhytus  353. 
Hippodrome  273. 
Hippo  Regius  311.  309. 
Hiraklitsa  535. 
Hodna,   Monts  du  270. 
Homem  em  Pe  27. 
Hondo,  Barranco  38. 
Honei'n  125. 
Horca,   Montana  de  la 

38. 
Hormiga  Grande  112. 
Horrea  Cselia  365. 
Houmt-Souk  393. 
Hoyo  de  Chorro  88. 
H'sen,  the  205. 
Huelva  5. 

Humboldt  Corner  38. 
Hunkiar   Iskelesi   559. 
Hussein-Dey  233. 
Hydra,  Cape  530. 

—  (island)  494. 
Hyeres,  lies  d'  138. 112. 
Hymettos,  Mt.  494. 


INDEX. 


591 


Iaci  158. 
Ich  (oasis)  203. 
Ieherridene  258. 
Ichoukkan  296. 
Icod,  Corona  de  42. 

—  Alto  42. 

—  de  los  Vinos  43. 
Icosium  221. 

Ida  Range  (Crete)  416. 
(now  Kas  Dagh) 

533. 
Idafe,  the  48. 
leros,  Cape  574. 
If  119. 

Ighzer-Amokran  251. 
Igilgili  267. 
Iglesiente  129. 
Igueste  36. 
Ikaria  492. 
Iki  Kardash  530. 
Ilaujik  562. 
Iluro  88. 
Imbros  533. 
Imperatore,  Punta  118. 
Irnros  Kalesi  560. 
Incoronata  Island  429. 
Ineboli  576. 
Iniada,  Cape  562. 
Injeh  Burun  576. 
Inkerraann  208. 
Innauen  94. 
In  Salah  216. 
Insulse    Cunicularise 

133. 

—  Diomedea3  428. 

—  Dionysiades  492. 

—  Fortunatse  28. 
Iol  244. 
Iomnium  256. 
Ionia  491. 

Ionian   Sea    118.   xxxi. 
Ionopolis  576. 
I6s  417. 
Iris,  the  575. 
Iroses,  Pico  dos  21. 
Isabel    Segunda,     Isla 

124. 
Ischia  118.  135. 
Iskanderieh  432. 
Isleta,  the  43. 
Ismailiya  138. 
I > mill.  Gulf  of  535. 
Isola  Grande  153. 

—  Rossa  Bay  118. 
Isser,  Ravine  of  the  250. 
— ,  the   (near   Algiers) 

253. 
— ,  the  (near  Oran)  185. 
Issers,  Les  258. 
Isserville  253. 
Istankibi  490. 


Istria  429. 
Ithaca  500. 
Ivi,  Cape  118. 
Iviza  112.  126. 
Izana,  Monte  de  36. 
Izmir  531. 


Jaffa  467. 

Jalta  569. 

Jamur  153. 

Jardim  da  Sena  26. 

Jardins,  Vallee  des  198. 

Jarros,  He  132. 

Jasonium  Promonto- 

riuui  575. 
Jebel  Abiod  153. 

—  Adrar  Ainellah  268. 

—  Afoerer  267. 

—  Ahmar  353. 
Khaddou  284. 

—  Aissa  202. 

—  Akhdar  93. 

—  el-Akhouat  860. 

—  Akouker  258. 

—  Alima  386. 

—  Amour  170. 

—  Anini  269. 

—  Antar  202. 

—  Arbalou  262. 

—  Assalah  384. 

—  Ayata  362. 

—  Azeb  275. 

—  Babor  269. 

—  Bani  93. 

—  el-Baruk  483. 

—  bel-Khifeh  315. 

—  Belloua  254. 

— ■  Beni  Bou  Youssef 
268. 

Felka'i  268. 

Hassan  111. 

Smir  204. 

Snassen  197.  125. 

—  Ben-Younes  384. 

—  Biadha  383. 

—  Bir  327. 

—  Bireno  320. 

—  Borosse  184. 

—  Bou  Arif  275. 

el-Hancche  362. 

Hedina  383. 

-Hellal  388. 

Hini  261. 

Kadra  314. 

Kornin  363. 

Leghfad  203. 

Maad  210. 

Merzoug  275. 

-Ramli  884. 

-Rebbah  326. 


Jebel  Bou  Rezel  282. 

■ Roumane  320. 

Sessou  314. 

Yala  304. 

•  -Zegza  249. 

—  Chambi  371.  320. 

—  Chaouach  328 

—  Char  362. 

—  Charra  328. 

—  Chelia  278. 

—  Chenoua  242. 

—  Chettaba  297. 

—  ou  Chiouen  262. 

—  Chouka  186. 

—  Debar  307. 

—  Demmer  390. 

—  Dersa  103. 

—  Dira  250.  169. 

—  Dissa  388. 

—  Djaffar  359. 

—  Djara  203. 

—  Djinet  253.  130. 

—  Djiia  206. 

—  Doui  209. 

—  Doukkan  315. 

—  Dyr  315. 

—  el-Dzeroua  314. 

—  Edough  309. 

—  Essor  276. 

—  Fadloun  405. 

—  Faroua  320. 

—  Fedj  el-Adoum  357. 

—  Filrila  131. 

—  Fillaoussen  198. 

—  Gaous  276. 

—  Garci  365. 

—  Gharribou  278. 

—  Gontas  211. 

—  Gorra  355. 

—  Gouari  131. 

—  Gouraya  265. 

—  Gourin  270. 

—  Groun  278. 

—  Grouz  204. 

—  Gueldaman  251. 

—  Hadid  131. 

—  el-Hadid  109. 

—  Hadjar  208. 

—  Hadjra  Touila    210. 

—  el-Haimer  203. 

—  Haizer  (Haizeur)  254. 

—  Haouidja  278. 

—  el-Herrech  326. 

—  Hout  es-Srir  314. 

—  Ichkeul  352. 

—  Imoulentaour  266. 

—  Iril  ou  Moula  258. 

—  Jellabia  385. 

—  Kahar  184. 

—  Kalaat    es-Senam 
362. 

38* 


592 


INDEX. 


Jebel  Kasyun  489. 

—  Kebdana  124. 

—  Kebouch  357. 

—  Kechbata  354. 

—  Keneiseh  483. 

—  Kerkour  198. 

—  Khaoui  351. 

—  Kherouf  328. 

—  Klab  359. 

—  Korbous  364. 

—  Kouif  318. 

—  Kouriet  258. 

—  Kraoui  351. 

—  Krer^ra  314. 

—  Kristel  184. 

—  Kroubset  278. 

—  Kteuf  (Constantine) 
270. 

(nearEl-Kantara) 

278. 

—  Lakhdar  93. 

—  Lorbeus  360. 

—  Maadid  270. 

—  Maaziz  198. 

—  Mahabouba  312. 

—  Mahouna  308. 

—  el-Maiz  204. 

—  Maiza  360. 

—  Majora  383. 

—  Maknassi  383. 

—  el-Malha  202. 

—  Mani  489. 

—  Maouya  Gora  283. 

—  Mar  Elyas  468. 

—  Masser  198. 

—  Massouge  360. 

—  Matrona  269. 

—  Mazella  306. 

—  el-Meddad  210. 

—  Mefrouch  194. 

—  Megriss  269. 

—  Mekter  202. 

—  el-Melah  278. 

—  Melias  204. 

—  Menzel  Roul  353. 

—  Mes  Ritan  267. 

—  Mestoula  314. 

—  Metlaoui  386. 

—  Metlili  277. 

—  Metloug  314. 

—  Mezi  203. 

—  Mezritan  267. 

—  Mezzouna  383. 

—  el-Mlaga  282. 

—  Morghad  202. 

—  Mouzaia  213. 

—  Mrilah  371. 
Mula'i  Abd  es-Slam 

102. 

—  Murjajo  182. 

—  Musa  103. 


Jebel  Mzita  270. 

—  Mzouzia  314. 

—  Nador  308. 

—  Nadour  (Djerid)388. 
(near  Porto-Fa- 
rina) 354. 

—  Nif-Ensser  274. 

—  Orbata  385. 

—  Orouze  199. 

—  Osmor  318. 

—  Ouamri  254. 

—  Ouenza  314. 

—  Oum  el-Alleg  383. 

—  Oust  858. 

—  Rebia  326. 

—  Rekaba  320. 

—  Ressas  358. 

—  er-Rihan  469. 

—  Rosfa  385. 

—  Roumana  389. 

—  Saghro  93. 

—  Sannin  483. 

—  Santon  183. 

—  Sarro  93. 

—  Sarsar  105. 

—  Sbeitla  371. 

—  Sebaa-Chioukh  185. 

—  Sedderts  267. 

—  Seldja  386. 

—  Selloum  278. 

—  Semmana  371. 

—  Serd  320. 

—  Sicioun  199. 

—  Sidi  Abdalla  Ben- 
Cheid  360. 

Abd  el-Kader 

214. 

R'gheiss  273. 

Youssef  204. 

—  Smerten  390. 

—  Soubouyou  306. 

—  Souinia  391. 

—  Stah  386. 

—  Tababor  128. 

—  Tadjera  391. 

—  Tafrent  273. 

—  Taguertine  289. 

—  Takoucht  268. 

—  Takroun  365. 

—  Tamednaia  203. 

—  Taounnart  267. 

—  Tarfai  386. 

—  Tarfaoui  388. 

—  Taya  307. 

—  Tebaga  388.  320. 

—  Tegrimont  or 

—  Tegrimoun  250. 

—  Temoulga  209. 

—  Tenoukla  318. 

—  Terni  187. 

—  Tessala  186. 


Jebel  Tifech  313. 

—  Tizibert  259. 

—  Tiziren  94. 

—  et-T6r(Mt.Gerizim) 
468. 

(Mt.  Tabor)  469. 

—  Touati  391. 

—  Toudja  262. 

—  Touggour  275. 

—  Touila  371. 

—  Toukra  261. 

—  Tounga  354. 

—  Tshemmish  105. 

—  et-Tur  479. 

—  Zaccar  Chergui  212. 
Gharbi  212. 

—  Zafran  360. 

—  Zaghouan  359.  320. 

—  Zaiana  364. 

—  Zebissa  320. 

—  Zenaga  205. 

—  Zeriba  405. 

—  Zinat  102. 

—  Zraib  261. 

—  Zrissa  362. 
Jebilet  93. 
El-Jedida  108. 
Jefara  Steppe  410. 
Jefna  352. 
Jemmapes  803. 

Jerez  de  la  Frontera  59. 
Jerf  el-Asfar  108. 

Jerusalem  470. 
Absalom ,    Tomb    of 

480. 
Ascension,  Chapel  of 

the  479. 
Augusta  Victoria  In- 
stitute 479. 
Bab  el-Kattanin  476. 
Barracks  475. 
Bazaar,  New  474. 
— ,  Old  475. 
Bethlehem  480. 
Birket  es-Sultan  480. 
Churches : 

Ascension  (Rus- 
sian) 479. 

Credo  479. 

Holy  Sepulchre  474. 

Mary  Magdalen  480. 

Paternoster  479. 

Redeemer  475. 

St.  Anne  476. 

—  Mary  480. 

—  —  (Bethlehem) 
481. 

Weihnachtskirche- 
481. 
Consulates  471. 


INDEX. 


593 


Jerusalem : 
David  Street  473. 
Dome  of  the  Chain 
478. 

—  of  the  Rock  477. 
Gates  473.  476. 
Gethsemane,  Garden 

of  480. 
Golden  Gate  478. 
Haram  esh-Sherif 

476. 
Haret  en-Nasara  474. 
Hinnom,  Valley  of 

480. 
History  472. 
Hospices  470. 
Hotels  470. 
Jaffa  Suburb  473. 
Jebel  Abu  T6r  480. 

—  et-Tflr  479. 
Job's  Well  480. 
Kafr  et-Tflr  479. 
El-Kala  473. 
El-Kas  478. 
Kidron,  Valley  of  the 

480. 
Kings,  Tombs  of  the 

479. 
Kubbet  es-Sakhra 

477. 

—  e8-Silseleh  478. 
Magi,  Well  of  the  480. 
Mesjid  el-Aksa  478. 
Monasteries : 

Abyssinian  475. 
Coptic  475. 
Dormitio  Sanctao 

Marise  473. 
( ireat  Greek  474. 
Mar  Elyas  480. 
St.  Caralombos  475. 

—  John  474. 

—  Stephen  479. 
Muristan  475. 
En-Nebi  Daud  473. 
Olives,  Mount  of  479. 
Patriarch's  Bath  474. 

—  Pool  474. 
Post  Offices  471. 
Rachel's  Tomb  480. 
Russian  Buildings 

473. 
St.  James's  Cavern 
480. 

—  Mary's  Fountain 

480". 

—  Stephen's  Gate475. 
Es-Salahiyeh  476. 
SebilofKa«Bey477. 
Siloah  480. 
Siloam,  Pool  of  480. 


Jerusalem : 

Solomon's  Stables 
478. 

Tarik  Bab  es-Silseleh 
476. 

Temple  Colony,  Ger- 
man 473. 

Town  Wall  473. 

Via  Dolorosa  475. 

Wailing  Place  of  the 
Jews  479. 

Zacharias,  Pyramid 
of-  480. 

Zion  Suburb  473. 

Jevislik  574. 
Jews'  River  100. 
Jimena  56. 
Joppa  467. 
Jubv,  Cape  104. 
Judaea  466. 
Juif,  Col  du  197. 
Juive,  Col  de  la  204. 
Julber  (chateau)  569. 
Jurjura  Mts.  258.    169. 


Kabakos  Bay   (Bos- 
porus) 560. 

Kabakum    Bay    (Strait 
of  Mytilini)  533. 

Kabvlia,  Great  252. 

— ,  Little  266. 

Kadikibi  536. 

Kafr  ed-Dawar  437. 

—  et-Tur  479. 

—  ez  Zaiyat  438. 
Kaikos  533. 
Kairwan  372. 
El-Kaisariyeh  468. 
Kakiin  468. 
Kalaa  207. 
El-Kalaa,  Anse  267. 
El-Kalaa,  Cape  131. 
Kalaa   des  Beni-  Ham- 
mad  270. 

Kalaa-Djerda  362. 

Kebira  366. 

Matmata  391. 

Srira  366. 

Kalaat  es-Senam  362. 
Kalabat  el-Mezzeh  484. 
Kalamas,  the  500. 
Kalchedon  536. 
Kaleh  Sultanieh  534. 
Kaliakra.  Cape  562. 
Kallipolis  535. 
Kalmek  Point  572. 
Kalogeros  Cliffs  529. 
Kalogria,  Cape  500. 
Kalolimni  535. 


Kalpe  54. 
Kalydnse  533. 
Kalymnos  490. 
Kalyfib  438. 
Kamara  500. 
Kamart  351. 

—  Cape  351. 
Kandeleusa  492. 
Kandili  558. 
Kanlija  659. 
El-Kantara  (Algeria) 

276. 

—  (Djerba)  394. 

—  (Egypt)  438. 
— ,  Gorge  of  278. 
El-Kantour,  Hills  of 

303. 
Kapu  Dagh  535. 
Kara  Burun  (hill)  536. 
(peninsula)  630. 

—  Dagh  633. 

—  Denis  561. 

Boghaz  557. 

Karahissar  674. 
Karakova  Dereh  534. 
Karibjeh  Kalesi  560. 
Karouba  207. 
Karpathos  491. 
Kartha  298. 

Kasos  491. 

— ,  Strait  of  491. 

Kasr  Menara,   the  365. 

—  esh-Shama  460. 

—  ez-Zit  364. 
Kassar-Sa'id  342. 
Kasserine  371. 
Kastamuni  576. 
Kasteloryzo  490. 
Kastrades  498. 
Kastro  493. 
Katakolo  502. 
Katana  160. 
Kaystros,  the  491. 
Kaz  Dagh  533. 
K'Bouch  261. 
Kea  (Keos)  529. 
Kebilli  388. 
Kechili  Bay  560. 
Kef,  Le  360. 

—  Bou  Djabeur  311. 

—  Chrea  215. 

—  ed-Darsa  278. 

—  Demeur  390. 

—  ed-Door  284. 

—  Mahmel  278. 

—  Mechtob  131. 

—  Raghma  314. 

—  Randek  268. 

—  Sachi  211. 

—  Seba  311. 

—  Sidi  Abdallah  327. 


594 


INDEX. 


Kef  Siga  211. 

—  Toudjane  391. 
Kelibia  406. 
Kelmitou,  the  208. 
Kephallenia  500. 
Kerasun  or 

Kerasund(Kerasus)574. 
Kerembe,  Cape  576. 
Kerkenna  Islands  405. 
Kerki,  Mt.  491. 
Kerkyra  497. 
Kerpe,  Cape  576. 

— ,  Island  of  491. 
Kerrata  268. 
Kortoh,  Straits  of  570. 
Ketena  391. 
Khamissa  or 
Khemissa  313. 
Khanguet  364. 

—  Fras  361. 

—  el-Hadjadj  358. 

—  Kef  Tout  328. 
Khenchela  273. 
El-Kheraib  344. 
Kherba  209. 
KheVeddine  344. 
Khere-ohe  443. 
Khledia  358. 
Khoms  412. 
Khremensa  362. 
Khroub,  Le  273. 
Kibris  489. 
Kikene'is,  Cape  569. 
Kilallin  103. 

Kilid  Bahr  534. 
Kimolos  492. 
Kinlu  Burun  530. 
Kinyps,  the  412. 
Kiosteni  530. 
Kirba,  Col  de  209. 
Kiresiin  574 
Kiretsh  Burnu  559. 
Kirid  416. 
Kirpe,  Cape  676. 

—  Island  576. 
Kisarao  Bay  415. 
Kizil  Adalar  635. 

—  Irmak  675. 
Klazomenae  530. 
Kl^ber  199. 
Klokova  500. 
Knossos  416. 
Koja  Chai  534. 
Kolat  Dagh  571. 
Kolea  238. 
Koraka,  Cape  491. 
Korbous  364. 
Kordelio  533. 
Korone,  Bay  of  493. 
Kouba  233. 
Koubbeh,  Palais  de459. 


Koudiat  el-Goulal,  Col 
de  379. 

—  Oum  el-Arouah  387. 
Kralfallah  201. 
Kram,  Le  344. 
Kreider,  Le  201. 
Krennah  414. 
Kressida,  the  499. 
Krib,  Le  360. 

Krio,  Cape  415.  490. 
Kristel  184. 
Kriz  388. 

Krouinirie,  the  326. 
Kroussiah-Sahali  370. 
Ksantina  297. 
El-Ksar  385. 
Ksar  Hellal  360. 

—  M($tameur  391. 

—  es-Serlr  123. 

—  Tifech  313. 
El-Kseur  261. 

Amizour  252. 

Ksiba  378. 
Ksour  361. 

— ,  Montagnes  des  (Al- 
geria) 202.  170. 

— ,  Monts  des  (Tuni- 
sia) 390.  320. 

Essaf  370. 

Kubba  Lalla-Setti  187. 

—  Sidi-Abdallah  198. 

—  —  -Abd  er-Rehou 
357. 

-Brahim  198. 

Salah  380. 

Tahar  198. 

Kttchuk  Chekmekjeh 

535. 
Kum  Kaleh  534. 
Kuratan,  Cape  562. 
Kuriat  Islands  405. 
Kuru  Burnu  562. 

—  Cheshmeh  558. 
El-Kus  104. 
Kuskunjuk  558. 
Kiistenjeh  563. 
Kyamon  416. 
Kyane,  the  162. 
Kydonia  (Aivaly)   533. 

—  (Canea)  415. 
Kyme  137. 

Kyparissia,  Gulf  of  502. 
Kypros  489. 
Kythera  494. 
Kvthnos  492. 


Lacs,  Les  274. 

Lac  Souterrain  (near 

Hammam  Meskou- 

tine)  307. 


Lacus  Hipponensis  352. 

—  Regius  274. 
Ladesta  429. 
Laestrygonian  Fields 

159. 
Laghouat  215. 
Lagos  5. 
Lagosta  429. 
Laguna  36. 
I   —  Salada  72. 
Lagussse  533. 
Laigueglia  113. 
Laktoube,  Foret  de  207. 
Lalia  283. 
Lalla  Khedidja  259. 

—  -Marnia  197. 
Lainbdia  215. 
Lainbese  (Lambessa) 

286. 
Lambiridi  276. 
Lamiggiga  275. 
Lamoriciere  186. 
Lamoune,  Fort  183. 
Lampsaki  (Lampsakos 

534. 
Lamta  369. 
Lamur  181. 
Lansheron  568. 
Larash  104. 
Lares  360. 
Larnaka  489. 
Lartos,  Cape  490. 
Lasithi  Mts.  492. 
Laspi,  Bay  of  569. 
Laturus  Sinus  199. 
Lauriers-Roses,  Les 

186. 
Lavarande  210. 
Laverdure  312. 
Laverie,  La  358. 
Lavezzi  133. 
Lazistan  Mts.  571. 
Lebanon  483.  xxxiv. 
Lebedus  491. 
Lebida  (Lebda)  412. 
LeQa  da  Palmeira  3. 
Lecourbe  270. 
Lectum  Promontoriuni 

533. 
Leghorn  143. 
Leila  385. 
Leixoes  3. 
Lemeny  569. 
Lemnos  533. 
Lempta  369. 
Lentini  159. 
Leona,  Cape  123. 
Leontinoi  159. 
Lepsia  490. 
Leptis  Magna  412. 

—  Minor  369. 


INDEX. 


595 


LeYins,  lies  de  112. 
Leros  490. 
Lesbos  533. 
Leueadian  Rock  500. 
Leuka  Ore  415. 
Levada  Velha  (Madeira) 

26. 
Levant,  He  du  112. 
Levante,  Riviera  di  134. 
Ldvanzo  153. 
L6vitha  492. 
Levkas  500. 
Le'vkimo,  Cape  500. 
Libar,  Sierra  de  56. 
Libyan  Desert  461. 
Licosa,  Punta  155. 
Lido  424. 
Ligata  112. 
Ligula,  the  344. 
Ligurian  Alps  112. 
—  Sea  112. 
Likurnpt  93. 
Lilibeo,  Capo  153. 
LilybBeum  153. 
Li  m  agues  388. 
Limassol  489. 
Limbara,  Monti  di  133. 
Limnos  533. 
Linaro,  Cape  135. 
Lindless,  Cape  125. 
Lindos  490. 
Linea  de  la  Concepci6n 

56. 
Linosa  396. 
Lions,  Oulf  of  119. 
— ,  Montagne  des   184. 
Lipari  155. 

Lipari  Islands  155.  146. 
Lipso  490. 
LipsokntaJi  494. 
Lisboa  9. 

Lisbon  6. 

Alameda  de  Silo  Pe- 
dro de  Alcantara 
11. 

Aqueducto  das  Aguas 
Livres  12. 

Arsenal  do  Exe"rcito 
14. 

Artillery  Museum  14. 

Avenida  da  Liberda- 
de  11. 

Banks  8. 

Belem  14. 

— ,  Tower  of  14. 

Botanic  Garden  11. 

Buenos  Ayres  12. 

Bull  Ring  8. 

Cable  Tramways  7. 

Cabs  7. 


Lisbon : 

Caes  das  Coluinnas 

10. 
Cafes-Restaurants  7. 
Campo  dos  Martyres 

da  Patria  12. 
Casa  dos  Bicos  13. 

—  Pia  14. 
Castello  de  Sao  Jorge 

13. 
Central  Railway  Sta- 
tion 6.  11. 
Churches: 
Basilica  do  Santis- 

simo  Coraeao  de 

Jesus  12. 
Carmo,  Igreja  doll. 
Estrella  12. 
N.S.   da  Conceicao 

Velha  IS. 

—  da  Gra§a  13. 

—  da  Misericordia 
13. 

—  do  Monte  13. 
Santa  Maria  14. 
Sao  Roque  11. 

—  Vicente  de  F6ra 
13. 

S(5  Patriarchal   13. 
Cidade  Baixa  10. 
Collina  do  Castello  9. 
Convento  dos  Jerony- 

mos  de  Belem   14. 
English  Cemetery 

12. 
Estrada  da  Civcum- 

vallacao  9. 
Hotels  6. 
Jardim    da    Estrella 

12. 
Junqueira  14. 
Largo  do  Rato  12. 
Lifts  7. 
Lisboa  Occidental  11. 

—  Oriental  12. 
Market  11. 
Mercado  14. 
Meteorological     Sta- 
tion 11. 

Monumento  dos  Res- 
tauradores  de  Por- 
tugal 11. 

Museum,  Natural 
History  11. 

Museu  National  das 
Bellas  Artes  14. 

—  —  dos  Coches  14. 
Observatory  11. 
Paco  de  Belem  14. 
Palacio    das  Cortes 

12. 


Lisbon : 

Pantheon  Real  13. 

Pelourinho  14. 

Polytechnic  School 
11. 

Post  Office  7. 

Praga    de    Dom    Pe- 
dro IV.  10. 

—  de  Luis  de  Camoes 
12. 

—  de  Vasco  da  Gama 
14. 

—  do  Commercio  10. 

—  do  Rio  de  Janeiro 
11. 

Rocio,  11. 

Rua  da  Escola  Poly- 
technica  11. 

—  G-arrett  12. 

Sao  Vicente  de  F6ra, 
Monastery  of  13. 

Statues: 
Joseph  I.  10. 
Pedro  IV.  11. 

Steamers  8. 

Tagus,  Bay  of  the  9. 

Theatres  8. 

Tramways  7. 

Lissa  429. 

Littre"  210. 

Livadia  570. 

Livorno  142. 

Livramento  25. 

Lix,  the  104. 

Lixus  105. 

Llanos,  Los  48. 

Loano  113. 

Lod  470. 

Loja  72. 

Loma  Pelada,  Punta  do 

112. 
Lomo  de  Vega  42. 
—  Tiezo  41. 
Longo    Sardo,    Bay    of 

133. 
Lorbeus  360. 
Lotophagi,     Island     of 

the  393. 
Lourmel  185. 
El-Lubban  468. 
Ludd  470. 

Lugar  de  Baixo  26. 
Lukkus,  the  104. 
Lunga  Island  429. 
Lussin  429. 
Lustdorf  568. 
Lydda  470. 
Lydia  490. 
Lykaaon,  the  502. 
Lytri  493. 


596 


INDEX. 


Maafa  276. 

—  Valley  277. 
Maajen  Bel-Abbes  372. 
Maalif  Plain,  the  201. 
Maatkas  254. 
Machico  21. 
Mac-Mahon  276. 
Maeta,  La  200. 
Madaraes  Mts.  415. 
Madaura   (Madauros) 

314. 
Maddalena  133. 
— ,  Penisola  della  162. 
Madeira  17. 
Madera,  Barranco  de  la 

47. 
El-Mader-Pasteur    275. 
Madonie  Mts.  146. 
Magdalena  (Madeira) 

26. 
Maggiore,  Monte  429. 
Magnisi,  Penisola  159. 
Maharatsh  570. 
Mahares  383. 
Mahboubine  394. 
Mahdia  369. 
Mahmudiyeh  Canal  433. 

437. 
Mahon  127. 
Maiella  428. 
Maillot  251. 
Maire,  He  132. 
Maison-Blanche  249. 

—  Cantonniere  259. 

Carree  247. 

El-Maiz  205. 
Majar  Bay  560. 
Majorca  112. 
Majouba  362. 
Makaron  Nesoi  28. 
Maknassi  383. 
Makronisi   (Gulf  of 

Smyrna)  530. 

—  (Straits  of  Kea)  529. 
Maktar  360. 
Maktariurn  360. 
Malabata,  Cape  57. 
Malaga  88. 

— ,  Bahia  de  89. 

— ,  Vega   or   Hoya    de 

89 
Mala'koff  208. 
Mai    di   Ventre,    Isola 

di  129. 
Malea,    Cape    (Greece) 

494. 
— ,  Cape  (Mytilini)  533. 
Malga,  La  348. 
Mallorca  112. 
Malta  397.  xxx. 
Maltepe,  Cape  533. 


Malucha,  the  124. 
Mamaia  563. 
Mamora  Forest  105. 
El-Mamoura  365. 
Manchas,  Las  48. 
Mandraki  490. 
Manfredonia,     Bay    of 

428. 
Mangalia  563. 
Mani  (peninsula)  493. 
Manissa  Dagh  530. 
Manouba,  La  342. 
Manoubia  Hill  339. 
Mansoura  270. 
— ,  Plateau  de  274. 
Mansouria,  Pointe  267. 
Mansura,  Ruins  of  193. 
Marabout  Island  418. 
— ,  Plateau  du  183. 

—  Sidi-Ameur  243. 
Marathonisi,  Bav  of 

494. 
Maratbusa  Islands  530. 
Marbot  210. 
Marchena  57. 
Mare  Creticum  492. 
Maremma  di  Roma  135. 

—  Toscana  135. 
Marengo  243. 
Mareotis,  Lake  432. 
Mareth  391. 
Margueritte  212. 
Marhoum  201. 
Maritime  Alps  112. 
Marittimo  153. 
Markouna  289. 
Marmara  535. 
Marmarica,  the  415. 
Marmora  (island)  535. 
— ,  Sea  of  535.  xxxiv. 
Marouania  303. 
Marroqui,  Punta  6. 
Marsa,  La  351. 

—  el-Adjim  393. 

—  el-Hilil  414. 

—  el-Kantara  392. 
Marsala  153. 
Marsa  Scala  411. 

—  Scirocco  411. 

—  Susa  414. 

—  Ugra  412. 
Marseilles  119. 
Martianez,  Barranco  de 

39. 
Martin,  Cape  113. 
Martin,  River  102. 
Mascara  200. 
Masclianse  371. 
Mascula  273. 
Masri  411. 
Massandra  570. 


Massif  Kabyle  257. 
Matanza  38. 
Matapan,  Cape  493. 
Matariyeh  459. 
Matavun  427. 
Il-Maten  252. 
Mateur  351. 
Mathraki  496. 
Matifou  248. 
— ,  Cape  248.  127. 
Matmata-Kebira  391. 
Matshka,  the  572. 
Mattosinhos  3. 
Mauretania  Sitifensis 

271. 
Maxula-Rades  363. 
Mazafran  238. 
Mazagan  108. 
Mazagran  207. 
Mazalquivir  183. 
Mazara  153. 
Mazari,  Cabo  123. 
Mazo  48. 
Mazouna  208. 
Mazzara  del  Vallo  153. 
M'chounech  284. 
Mdaourouch  314. 
Mtich6ra-Sfa-PreVost- 

Paradol  208. 
Mecheria  202. 
Meehta-Chateaudun 

272. 
Medea  215. 
Medeina  362. 
Medenine  391. 
Medina  278. 
Medinet  el-Khedima 

371. 

—  el-Merj  414. 
Medjana  270. 
Medjerda,  the  320.  129. 

313. 
Medjez-Amar  308. 

—  el-Bab  328. 

Sfa  312. 

Medracen  274. 
Megalokastron  416. 
Megalonisi  (iEgean 

Sea)  533. 
Megalo  Nisi  (Black  Sea) 

562. 
Megara  502. 
— ,  Bay  of  159. 
Megara  Iblea  159. 
Megiste  490. 
Megrine  363. 
Mehdia  369. 
Mehdiya  or 
Mehedia  105. 
Mekalia  207. 
Mekalis  202. 


INDEX. 


597 


Mdkla  261. 
El-Meks  418. 
Melaha  411. 
Melassinc  339. 
Mele,  Cape  113. 
Melika  216. 
Melila,  Monte  124. 
Melilla  124. 
Melita  398. 
El-Mellaha  199. 
Mellieha  Bay  397. 
Meloria  142. 
Melos  492. 

Melrir,  Bassin  du  170. 
Membressa  328. 
Memphis  464. 
Menara  391. 
Memlere  Chai  534. 
Menelaus  Island  415. 
Menerville  250. 
Menguellet  257. 
Meninx  393. 

—  (ruins)  394. 
Menshia,  Oasis  of  410. 
Mentone  113. 
Menzaleh,  Lake  418. 
Menzel  390. 

—  Bou-Zelfa  364. 

—  Dar  el-Bouar  366. 

—  Djemil  354. 
Mercedes,  Las  37. 
Merdja,  Le  208. 
Merj  414. 

Merja  R&s  ed-D6ra  105. 

—  ez-Zerga  105. 
Mers  el-Kebir  183. 
Mesco,  Punta  del   134. 
Mesembriya  562. 
Meskiana  273. 
Mesloug  271. 
Mesolongion  500. 
Messadine  378. 
Messina  156. 

— ,  Straits  of  155. 
Mesurata  412. 
Metade,  Ribeiro  da  27. 
Metamcur  391. 
El-Methouia  389. 
Metlaoui  386. 
Metlineh  132. 
Mezar  Burnu  559. 
Mezzouna  383. 
Mhiula  108. 
Michelet  258. 
Midoune  394. 
Midttlltl  533. 
Mijas,  Sierra  de  88. 
Mila  267. 
Milass  569. 
Miletus  491. 
Mileum  268. 


El-Milia  267. 
Miliana  211. 

—  -Margueritte  211. 
Milldsimo  308. 
Milonia,  Cape  125. 
Milos  492. 

Mimas  530. 
Mina,  the  207. 
— ,  La  37. 

— ,  Plaine  do  la  207. 
Minho,  the  3. 
Minorca  127. 
Mirabeau  253. 
Miramar  427. 
Mir  el-Jebel  203. 
Miseno,  Cape  135. 
Misida  403. 
Misolonghi  500. 
Misrata  412. 
Misserghin  185. 
Mitidja,  the   169.    213. 

243.  etc. 
Mit-Rahineh  4G4. 
Mitylene  533. 
Mizrana,  Foret  de  255. 
Mnaidra  403. 
Mnshia,  the  410. 
Moda,  Bay  of  535. 
Modzbah  201. 
Mogador  (Mogator)  109. 
Moghrane  359. 
Moghrar,  Gorges  de  203. 

—  -Foukani  203. 

—  -Tahtani  203. 
Mogod  Mts.  132. 
Mohamcdia,  La  359. 
Moines,    Les    (Monaci) 

133. 
Mokattam  Hills  454. 
Moknine  369. 
Mola  158. 

—  di  Bari  428. 
Molentargius,  Stagno 

di  144. 
Molini,  Capo  160. 
Monaco  112. 
Monastore    St.    Joseph 

247. 
Monastir  405. 
Monchique,  Serra  de  5. 
Mondello,  Bay  of  152. 
Mondovi  308. 
Mongo  112. 
Monopoli  428. 
Monreale  (Palermo)  152. 
Mons  Aurasins  278. 
Monserrate,  Quinta  de 

16. 
Mons  Ferratus  258. 

—  Neptuni  155. 

—  Ziquensis  859. 


Montagnac  185. 
Montaigne  267 
Montalto  155. 
Montana  Blanca  41. 
Monte   (G-ran  Canada) 
46. 

—  (Madeira)  24. 

—  Carlo  113. 
Montecristo  144. 
Montenotte  209. 
Montesquieu  314. 
Montilla  72. 
Morbeya  108. 
Mornag,  Plaine  du  358. 
Morocco  93. 

Morro  de  la  Vieja, 

Punta  43. 
Morsott  314. 
Mortola,  Cape  118. 
Moshonisia  Islands  538. 
Mostaganem  207. 
Moudjahdine,    Col   des 

204. 
Moulev-Ismael,    Forlt 

de  2*06. 
Moulinville  380. 
Mouza'ia-les-Mines  215. 
Mouzaiaville  213. 
M'raier  284. 
Mrai'ssa  364. 
M'saken  378. 
Mshatka  569. 
Msid  Echta  131. 
M'Sila  270. 
— ,  Foret  185. 
Msila,  Plateau  de  872. 
MsCn  94. 
Mtuga  110. 
El-Muallaka  483. 
Muchachos,    Roque   de 

los  48. 
Mudania,  Gulf  of  535. 
Muizz  Canal  439. 
Muluth,  the  327. 
Muluya  93. 
Murcia,  Coast  of  112. 
Murro   di  Porco,   Capo 

411. 
Murustuga  207. 
Musta  403. 
Mustapha-SupeVieuT 

127. 
Mustis  357. 
Myeonius  Mons  155. 
Mykale  491. 
Mykonos  417. 
Myrminghi,    Cape  530. 
Mysia  533. 
Mytilini  533. 
Mzab,  the  216.  170. 
Mzita  270. 


598 


INDEX. 


Naama  202. 

Naaneh  470. 

Nabeul  365. 

Nablus  or  Nabulus  468. 

Nador  308. 

—  des  Soumata  218. 

Nagara   Kalesi    (fort) 

534. 
Namorados,   Bocca  dos 

26. 
Nao,  Cabo  de  la  112. 

Naples  135. 

Antignano  142. 
Aquarium  141. 
Archetiello,  1'  142. 
Bella  Vista  142. 
Cabs  136. 
Cafes  136. 
Camaldoli  141. 
Castel  Capuano   140. 
CastellodeirOvol38. 
Castel  Nuovo  138. 

—  Sant'Elmo  141. 
Churches : 

Cathedral  140. 

San  Gennaro  140. 

■ —  Giovanni  a  Car- 
bonara  140. 

Santa   Chiara  139. 

—  Restituta  140. 
Corso  Vittorio  Eraa- 

nuele  141. 
Funiculars  137. 
Galleria  TJmberto 

Primo  138. 
Harbour  Quarter  138. 
Hotels  135. 
Immacolatella  Vec- 

chia  138. 
Largo   della  Vittoria 

141. 
Molo  Angioino  138. 
Municipio  138. 
Museo  Nazionale  139. 
Omnibuses  137. 
Palazzo  Reale  138. 
Piazza  del  Municipio 

138. 

—  San  Ferdinando 
138. 

Pizzofalcone  138. 
Porta  Capuana  140. 

—  San  Martino    141. 
Porto  Mercantile  138. 

—  Militare  138. 
Posilipo  142. 
Post  Office  137. 
Railway  Station  135. 
Restaurants  136. 
Rione  Vomero  141. 


Naples : 

San  Martino  141. 
Steamboat  Agents 

137. 
Strada  di  Chiaia  141. 
Teatro  San  Carlo  138. 
Toledo  139. 
Tramways  137. 
Triumphal  Arch  138. 
Veduta  Pagliana  112. 
Via  Roma  139. 
—  Tasso  142. 
Villa  Nazionale  141. 
Zoological  Station 

141. 

Naples,  Bay  of  135. 
Naro  363. 
Nasscn  358. 
Naupaktos  501. 
Naustathmus  414. 
Navarin  272. 
Naxos  (island)  417. 
—  (Sicily)  158. 
Nazareth  468. 
Nazereg  201. 
Neapolis  365. 
NebeuT  326. 
Nedroma  198. 
Neferis  358. 
Nefta  387. 
Nefza  Mts.  328. 
Negrine  284. 
Negro,  Cape  132. 
Negron,  Cape  (Cabo 

Negro)  103. 
Nemours  198. 
Neochori  559. 
Nero,  Capo  113. 
Nervi  117. 
Nevada,  Sierra  49. 
New  Heliopolis  459. 
Nice  112. 
Nicopolis  433. 
Nieves,  Pico  de  las  46. 
Nif  Dagh  530. 
Niffe  107. 
Nikaria  492. 
Nikita  570. 
Nikomedeia  535. 
Nile,  the  418. 
Nios  417. 
Nisyros  490. 
Noe",  Cape  125. 
Noir,  Cape  128. 
Noli,  Capo  di  113. 
Notabile  403. 
Notre-Dame   d'Afrique 

236. 
Nouvion-Oued-Malah 

207. 


Novorossysk  570. 
Numerus  Syrorum  197. 
Numiulis  or 
Numluli  355. 


Obba  361. 
Obelisco  427. 
Odessa  564. 
— ,  Gulf  of  564.  xxxiv. 
Odessos  562. 
Oea  407. 
(Enoe  575. 

(Enussa?  Insula}  (Spal- 
matori  Islets)  493. 

—  Islands  (off  the  Mes- 
senian  peninsula)  493. 

Oglak  530. 
Oglasa  144. 
Oglet  Nakhla  388. 
Ogygia  398. 
Oia,  Cape  417. 
Olgino  568. 
Olisipo  19. 

Oliviers,  Col  dcs  212. 
Olonos  Mts.  500. 
Olympia  501. 
Olympos,  the  535. 
Onegha  113. 
Onellana  359. 
OpSina  427. 
Oporto  3. 

Oppidum  Matarense 
352. 

—  Novum  210. 
Oran  175. 

— ,  Gulf  of  126. 
Ordu  575. 
Oreanda  570. 
Organos,  the  40. 
Oristano,  Gulf  of   129. 
OiLJansville  208. 
Oro,  Rio  del  124. 
Orotava,  Puerto  39. 
— ,  Villa  40. 

—  Valley,  the  38. 
Orso,  Monte  152. 
Ortakioi  558. 
Ortygia  163. 
Ossero,  Monte  429. 
Osuna  57. 
Othoni  496. 
Otranto,  Straits  of  130. 
Ouadhia  258. 
Ouardenine  369. 
Ouarsenis,  the  209.  169. 
Ouartane  361. 
El-Ofldighir  205. 
El-Oudiane  388. 
Oudjda  197. 

Oudna  358. 


INDEX. 


599 


Oudref  389. 
El-Oued  285. 
Oued-Amizour  252. 
-  -Athmenia  27:!. 
-Bellah  2-11. 

—  Bou  Heurtma  327. 

—  -Chaffar  383. 

—  -Chouk  314. 

—  -Chouly  186. 

—  -Darnous  314. 

—  -Djer  213. 

—  Fergoug,  Barrage  de 

r  200. 

—  -Fodda  209. 

—  -Frarah  308. 

—  -Hamimin  273. 

—  -Hammiminc  303. 

—  Hathob  320. 

—  el-Kebir,  the  131. 

—  -el-Kheir  207. 
Khelloug  207. 

—  -Kiss  169. 
Laya  370. 

—  -Marsa  266. 

—  -Moliz  326. 

—  Mellegue  314. 

—  Miliane  320. 

—  -Mougraa  325. 

—  Rhir,  the  285. 

—  -Riou  208.  * 

—  -Rouina  209. 

—  Saoura,  Bassin  de  1' 
170. 

—  -Sarrath  362. 

Scguin  272. 

Sly  208. 

Taria  200. 

—  -Tindja  352. 

—  Zai'ane  251. 

—  -Zarga  328. 

—  -Zeiiati  306. 
Ouled-Agla  270. 

—  -Ali,  Col  des  186. 

—  -Nail,    Monts  des 
170. 

Rahmoun  272. 

—  -Sliraan  205. 
Oumache,  Oase  282. 
Ounga  383. 
El-Ouricia  269. 
Ourir  284. 
El-Ourit  196. 
Ourkis,  Col  d'  272. 
Ourlana  285. 
Ourmes  285. 
El-Outaya  278. 
Ovidiopol  564. 

Oxia   Island    (Prinkipo 
Islands)  535. 

—  Islands  (near  Patras) 
500. 


Pace  158. 
Pagos,  the  532. 
Pain  de  Sucre  268. 
Palseokastrizza  500. 
Palseopolis  138. 

Palermo  147. 
Argos-Eden  152. 
Botanic  Garden   151. 
Cala,  La  147. 
Cappella  Palatina 

149. 
Cassaro  149. 
Castellammare,  Fort 

147. 
Churches : 

Cathedral  149. 

—  of  Monreale  152. 
Martorana,  La  150. 
San  Cataldo  150. 

—  Domenico  150. 
Santa  Maria  del 

l'Ammiiagliol50. 
Corso  Vittorio  Ema- 

nuele  149. 
Falde  151. 
Flora  151. 
Foro  TJmberto  Primo 

151. 
Giardino  Garibaldi 

149. 

—  Inglese  151. 
Grotto  of  St.  Rosalia 

152. 
Marina  151. 
Monreale  152. 
Municipio  150. 
Museo  Nazionale  150. 
Oratorio   del  Santis- 

simo  Rosario  150. 
Palazzo  di  Citta  150. 

—  Reale  149. 
Pellegrino,  Monte 

151. 
Piazza  Giuseppe 
Verdi  151. 

—  Marina  149. 
Porta  Felice  151. 

—  Nuova  150. 
Quattro  Canti  149. 
Rocca,  La  152. 

San    Giovanni    degli 
Eremiti  150. 

Santa   Ninfa   (obser- 
vatory) 150. 

Teatro  Massimo  (Vit- 
torio Emanuele) 
151. 

Telegrafo  152. 

University  150. 

ViadellaLihcrtal51. 


Palermo : 

Via  Maqueda  149. 
Villa  Giulia  151. 

Palermo,  Bay  of  147. 
Palestro  250. 
Palheiro  do  Ferreiro  27. 
Palinuro,  Cape  155. 
Pallice,  La  2. 
Palma  47. 

—  del  Rio  68. 
Palmaiola  134. 
Palmaria  134. 
Palmarola  133. 
Palmas,  Golfo   di   118. 
— ,  Las  44. 

Pal  mi  155. 

Palmones  56. 

Palo  92. 

Palomas,  Grotta  de  las 

123. 
Palos,  Cape  112. 
Panaghia,  Cape  416. 
Panapia  493. 
Panada  155. 
Pandateria  134. 
Pan  de  Aziiear  11. 
Panormus  148. 
Pantano  Grande  158. 

—  Piccolo  158. 
Panteleusa  492. 
Pantelleria  154.  sss. 
— ,  Straits  of  153.  xxx. 
Pantokrator  500. 
Papas,  Cape  492. 
Paphlagonia  575. 
Paradiso  158. 
Parapanda,  Sierra  de  73. 
Parenzo  (Parentium) 

429. 
Parga  500. 
Parnes,  Mt.  494. 
Parthenium  (headland) 

569. 
Parthenope  138. 
Pasha  Bagcheh  559. 

—  Liman  Islands  585. 
Paso,  El  48. 
Paspargon  493. 
Passero,  Cape  411. 
Pasteur  275. 
Patinos  or 

Patmos  492. 
Patras  501. 
Paula  402. 
Paul  da  Serra  18. 
Paxos  500. 
Pecherie,  La  352. 
Pedro  Gil  Pass  40. 
Pegli  117. 
Pelagosa  429. 


600 


INDEX. 


Peleshet  466. 
Pelinnteon,  Mt.  529. 
Pelissier  207. 
P<511aro,   Punta  di  159. 
Pellegrino,  Monte  151. 
Peloritani,   Monti   155. 
Pena,  Castello  da  16. 
Penaflor  68. 
Penha  Verde  16. 
Pentapolis  418. 
Pentelikon,  Mt.  494. 
Pera,  Cabo  de  127. 
Per-Baste  439. 
Perdoma  40. 
Peregil,  Isla  del  123. 
Pergamum  533. 
Perhapi-n-On  448. 
Perigotville  269. 
Perinthos  535. 
Peristasis  535. 
Perregaux  206. 
— ,  Barrage  de  200. 
Pertusato,  Cape  138. 
Pescade,  Pointe  237. 
Pescaria,  the  27. 
Petagne,  Le  429. 
Petali  Islands  529. 
Petit  308. 

—  -Cavallo  131. 
Petite-Porte  270. 
Pezzo,  Punta  155. 
Phabra  529. 
Phaleron,  New  528. 
— ,  Old  528. 
Phasis,  the  570. 
Philippeville  804. 
Phleva  529. 
Phoenicia  469. 
Phoinikusa  146. 
Phokia  (Phocaea)  530. 
Pholegandros  492. 
Phorbantia  153. 
Phrygia  535. 
Phycus  414. 
Pianosa  Island  (Adria- 
tic Sea)  428. 

(near  Elba)    143. 

Pi-beseth  439. 
Picacho  de  la  Veleta  77. 
Pico  Fort  23. 

—  Grande,  the  26. 
Picon,  Montana  del  38. 
Pico  Viejo  42. 
Picville  382. 

Piksit  Su,  the  572. 
Pilas,  Las  42. 
Pilau  132. 

Pimentel,  Torre  de  89. 
Pinito,  Barranco  del  39. 
Pinos  Puente  73. 
Piombino  184. 


Pirreus  494. 
Pisan,  He  130. 
Piton,  the  41. 
Piton  d'Akbou  251. 
Pityusa  535. 
Pizarra  88. 
Plaia,  the  144. 
Planasia  (Adriatic  Sea) 
428. 

—  (near  Elba)  143. 
Plane,  He  125. 
Planier  119. 
Platana  574. 
Plati  535. 
Plemmyrion  162. 

Po,  Delta  of  the  427. 
Poiras  Burnu  560. 
Pola,  Bay  of  429. 
Polaticura  Promonto- 

riura  429. 
Polignano  a  Mare  428. 
Polinos  492. 
Pomaria  187. 
Pomegue  119. 
Pomo  Island  429. 
Ponente,  Riviera  di  IIS. 
Ponta  tal  Zonkor  411. 
Pont-de-1'Isser  185. 

—  de  l'Oued   el -Ham- 
mam  212. 

—  -de-Trajan  327. 

—  -du-Caid  210. 

—  -du-Chclif  207. 

—  -du-Fahs  359. 
Pontoba  209. 
Pontias  133. 
Pontikonisi  499. 
Pontine  Marshes  135. 
Pontus  575. 

—  Euxinus  561. 
Ponty,  Baie  352. 
Ponza  133. 

—  Islands  133. 
Poros  494. 
Porquerolles  133. 
Port-aux-Poules  (Great 

Kabylia)  253. 

—  —  —  (near  Perre- 
gaux) 199. 

Porte  Civili  260. 
Portella  Pass  27. 
Portes-de-Fer,  Les  270. 
Port  Gueydon  130. 
Portillo,  the  41. 
Porto  4. 

—  da  Cruz  27. 

—  -Farina  354. 
Portoferraio,     Bay    of 

134. 
Portofino,  Monte    di 
134. 


Porto  Longone  185. 

—  Maurizio  118. 

—  Novo  21. 

—  Santo  17.  20. 
Port  Paphos  490. 

—  Said  436. 

Say  125. 

Portus  Divinus  178. 

—  Magnus  199. 

—  Menelai  415. 
Posilipo  135. 
Positano  155. 
Potinville  364. 
Pouso  Saddle  27. 
Pozzuoli,   Bay  of  135. 
Praia  Formosa  25. 
Priene  491. 

Princes  Islands  585. 
Prinkipo  535. 
Pr6cida  118. 
Promontore,  Cape  429. 
Promontorium     Album 
469. 

—  Ampelusia  102. 

—  Apollinis  129. 

—  Candidum  129. 

—  Cunerum  428. 

—  Junonis  58. 

—  Mercurii  153. 

—  Pach^num  411. 

—  Pelorum  158. 

—  Sacrum  5. 

—  Trikeron  412. 
Propontis,  the  535. 
Proti  535. 
Provence  128. 
Prudon  186. 
Prugo,  Sierra  de  73. 
Psakon,  Cape  415. 
Psara  529. 
Psiloriti  Mts.  416. 
Psyra  529. 
Psyttaleia  494. 
Ptolemais  (Acre)  469. 

—  (Barca)  414. 
Puente  Genii  72. 
Puercas,  Las  58. 
Puerto  de  la  Cruz   39. 

—  de  la  Luz  43. 

—  de  Santa  Maria  59. 

—  Nuevo,  Lago  de  124. 

—  Orotava  39. 

—  Real  59. 
Puig  Mayor  112. 
Puits,  Le  210. 
Pupput  365. 
Pyramids  of  Gizeh 

461. 

—  of  Sakkara  465. 
Pyrgos  502. 
Pyxites,  the  572. 


INDEX. 


601 


Quarto,  Gfolfo  di   144. 
Quilates,  Cape  123. 
Quiza  207. 


Kabaijal  26. 
Rabat  105. 
Rabato  403. 
Rachgoun  185. 

—  (island)  125. 
Rades  363. 
Er-Rahel  185. 
Raisi,  Punta  di  152. 
Rambla   de  Castro  42. 
Rambleta,  the  41. 
Ramleh  436. 
Er-Ramleh  470. 
Ramula  470. 
Randon  308. 
Rapallo,  Bay  of  134. 
Ras  el-Abyad  469. 

—  Acrata  237. 

—  Addar  153. 

—  Adjir  406. 

—  Adrian  413. 

—  Afia  314. 

—  el-Ahmar  153. 

—  el-Aioun  387. 

—  el-Alia  313. 

—  el-Amouch  242. 

—  Atia  131. 

—  Bibi  131. 

—  Boasa  414. 

—  ed-Dabba  415. 

—  ed-D3.mur  469. 
Dimas  405. 

—  el-Djorf  393. 
al-Dukara  132. 
Engelah  129. 
al-Fortas  153. 

—  Frao  131. 

—  el-Hamarna  414. 

—  el-Hamra  412. 
el-Hilil  414. 

—  el-Hudik  108. 

—  el-Ihudi  412. 

—  Ishberdil  102. 

—  el-Kala  396. 

—  Kapoudia  370. 

—  Khadidja  370. 

—  el-Koran  129. 

—  Marmor  392. 

—  Mehdia  369. 

—  el-Mirh  405. 

—  el-Mustapha  405. 

—  on-Nakura  469. 
Raso  Cabo  4. 

Ras  el-Oued  (near  Ga- 

bes)  390. 
(Tocqueville) 

721. 


Ras  el-Radjel  328. 

—  er-Rumeileh  469. 

—  es-Sahal  412. 

—  Sem  414. 

—  Sluguia  351. 

—  Sotara  412. 

—  et-Tabia  412. 

—  Tachgagalt  254. 

—  Taguermess  406. 

—  Tarf  129. 

—  et-Tarf  103. 

—  Timedouine  258. 

—  et-Tin  415. 
Ra8trojos,  Los  41. 
Ras  Turgoeness  406. 

—  Wark  124. 
Ratonneau  119. 
Rayak  483. 

Razzoli,  Isola  dei  133. 
Realejo  Alto  42. 

—  Bajo  42. 
Redeyef  372. 
Regba,  the  325. 
Reggio  159. 
Reghaia  249. 
Relizane  207. 
Renan-Kleber  199. 
Rethymno  416. 
Retour  -  de  -  la  -  Chasse 

248. 
Reunion,  La  252. 
Reyak  483. 
Rhar  el-Maden  125. 
Rhegium  159. 
Rhithymna  416. 
Rhizus  571. 
Rhodes  490. 
Rhodios,  the  534. 
Rhone  Delta,   the  119. 
Rhumel,  Gorges  du  301. 
Riheira  Brava  26. 

—  da  Lapa  25. 

—  dos  Soccorridos   25. 
Rif  Coast  123. 

—  Mts.  104.  xxx. 
Rimini  427. 

Rio,  He  132. 

—  Marina  135. 
Rion,   the  570. 
Rio  Salado  185. 
Riposto  158. 

Risco,  Waterfall  of  the 
26. 

—  Verde,  the  42. 
Riviera,  Russian  569. 
Riviere  Blanche  278. 
Rivoalto  420. 

Rizeh  571. 
Robertville  303. 
Roca,  Cabo  da  4. 
Rocha  Alta,  the  26. 


Roche,  Cape  58. 
Rochelle,  La  2. 
Rocher  Blanc  215. 
Rockgun,  Mt.  53. 
Roda  (island)  461. 
Roda,  Cova  da  27. 
— ,  La  72. 
Rodosto  535. 
Roja  Ravine  113. 
Roknia,   Necropolis   of 

307. 
Roldan,  Mesa  de  112. 
Ronda  56. 
Rond-Point  des  Cedres 

211. 
Rosa,  Cape  131.  128. 
Rosario,  Port  124. 
Roseville  183. 
Roui'ba  (near  Ain-Sefra) 

203. 

—  (near  Algiers)  249. 
Roux,  Cape  131. 
Rovigno  429. 
Rovigo  248. 
Ruines,  Col  des  327. 

—  Romaines  244. 
Ruisseau,  Le  231. 
Ruivo,  Pico  27. 

—  do  Paul,  Pico  26. 
Ruraeli  Fanar  560. 

—  Hissar  558. 

—  Kavak  560. 
Rusaddir  124. 
Ruscinona  354. 
Rusgunise  248. 
Rusicade  304. 
Ruspae  370. 
Ruspina  405. 
Rusubricari  253. 
Rusuccuru  255. 
Rfita,  the  485. 


Sabinal,  Punta  del  112. 
Sabine  Mts.  135. 
Sabratha  407. 
Sacratif,  Cape  112. 
Saffi  (or  San)  109. 
Safsaf  (near  Philippe- 
ville)  303. 

—  (near  Tlemcen)  185. 

—  Valley,  the  186. 
Sagres  5. 
Sahara,  the  410. 

—  Atlas  170. 
Sahel  de  Collo  131. 

—  of  Algiers  221. 

—  of  Susa  366. 
Sai'da  (Oran)  201. 
Saida  (Palestine)  469. 
St.  Aime  208. 


602 


INDEX. 


St.  Andre  de  Mers  el- 
Kebir  183. 

—  Antoine  306. 

—  Arnaud  271. 

—  Canzian  427. 

—  Charles  303. 

—  Cloud  199. 
-sur-Mer  237. 

—  Denis-du-Sig  206. 

—  Donat  272. 
Sainte-Barbe  du  Tlelat 

186. 

—  Baume,  Chaine  de  la 
133. 

—  Clotilde  183. 

—  Juliette  380. 

—  Marie-du-Corso  249. 

—  Monique  844. 
St.  Eugene  236. 

—  George,  Cape  562. 

—  Georges  460. 

—  George's  Bay  482. 

—  Jean  d'Aere  469. 

—  Joseph  308. 

—  Julian  397. 

—  Leu  199. 

—  Lucien  186. 

—  Maur  184. 

—  Paul  308. 

—  Paul's  Bay  403. 

—  Raphael  234. 

■ —  Thomas's  Bay  411. 

—  Vincent,  Cape  5. 
Sakamody  248. 
Sakis  Adasi  492. 
Sakkara  464. 

Sala  106. 
Salakta  370. 
Salamandre,  La  207. 
Salambo  344. 
Salamis  494. 
Salao  26. 
Saldse  263. 
Salee  or 
Saleh  106. 
Es-Salehiyeh  489. 
Salerno,  Gulf  of  155. 
Salina  Bay  397. 
Salines,  Les  360. 
Salvatore  deiGreci  158. 
Salvore  429. 
Samakh  469. 
Samaria  468. 
Samos  491. 
Samothrake  533. 
Samsam,  the  213. 
Samsun  575. 

—  Dagh  491. 
San  Andres  86. 

—  Antioco  118. 

—  Calogero,  Monte  154. 


San  Cataldo  430. 

—  Fernando  59. 

—  Giorgio  Maggiore 
424. 

—  Giovanni  in  Pelago 
429. 

—  Giuliano,  Monte  153. 
Sanguinaires,  lies  133. 
San  Isidro  36. 

—  Jose,  Hacienda  de  92. 

—  JuandelaRambla42. 

—  Julian,   Castillo    de 
125. 

—  Lorenzo,  Barranco 
de  47. 

—  Marco,  Cape  154. 

—  Mateo  46. 

—  Michele,  Ruins  of  145. 

—  Pancrazio,Puntall8. 

—  Pietro  129. 

—  Remo  113. 

—  Roque  56. 

—  Salvatore,  Monte  500. 

—  Sebastian  (fort)  58. 
Sansego  429. 

San  Simonito,  Sierra 
123. 

—  Stefano  (near  Alex- 
andria) 436. 

,  Cape  (near  Con- 
stantinople) 535. 
Sansur  406. 
Santa  Anna  27. 

—  Brigida  46. 

—  Catalina,  Punta  5. 

—  Croce,  Capo  159. 

—  Cruz  (Madeira)  21. 

(Oran)  126. 

,  Fort  182. 

—  ■ — ,  Montague  de  177. 

de  la  Palma  47. 

de  Tenerife  33. 

—  Fe  73. 
Sant'Alessio  158. 
Santa  Luzia,  Levada 

de  24. 

—  Maria,  Cabo  de  5. 
Islands  133. 

—  Maura  500. 
Sant'  Andrea  429. 

—  Angelo,  Monte  155. 

,  Punta  118. 

Santa  Panagia,  Capo 

159. 

—  Teresa  di  Gallura 
133. 

—  Ursula  38. 

Sant'  Elia,  Cape  144. 
San  Te6doro  499. 
Sant'  Eufemia  155. 
Santi  Deca  499. 


Santi  Deca,  Monti  499. 

—  Quaranta  496. 
Santo  Antonio  25. 

—  —  da  Serra  27. 
Santorin  417. 
Santos,  Barranco  de  35. 
Santo    Stefano    (Ponza 

Islands)  134. 
(near  Sardinia) 

133. 
San  Vito,  Cape  153. 
Sao  Joiio  da  Foz  3. 

—  Lourenco,  Ponta  de 
20. 

—  Martinho  26. 
Sarafant  469. 
Sarat  414. 
Sardinia  133.  144. 
Sarepta  469. 
Sarona  468. 
Saronic  Gulf  494. 
Sarraya  483. 
Sarytsh,  Cape  569. 
Satafis  269. 
Savona  113. 

Sbakh,  Plateau  des  274. 
Sbei'tla  371. 
Sbiba  371. 

Scalanova,  Bay  of  491. 
Scala  Tyriorum  469. 
Scaletta,  Capo  di  158. 

—  Zanclea  158. 
Scarpanto  491. 
Scheria  497. 
Schiso  158. 
Sciacca  154. 
Sciarra  404. 
Scilla  155. 
Scombraria  125. 
Scutari  556. 
Sebala,  La  353. 
Sebaou  Valley  253.  254. 
Sebastopol  568. 
Sebkha  Bu-Erg  124. 

—  de  Relizane  208. 

—  de  Sahline  405. 

—  de  Sidi  Bou  Chiane 
208. 

—  Djendeli  274. 

—  d'Oran  185. 

—  Halk  el-Menzel  366. 

—  el-Melah  392. 

—  en-Nouail  383. 

—  er-Riana  345. 

—  Sidi  el-Hani  370. 
Sebra,  Baie  de  352. 
Sebta  103. 

Sebu,  the  105. 

Seddouk  251. 

Sejed  470. 

Seldja,  Gorges  du  386. 


INDEX. 


603 


Selinunto  (Selinus)  154. 
Selloum  260. 
Selmun  403. 
Sened  383. 
Senetosa,  Cape  133. 
Senglea  400. 
Stima,  La  185. 
Septa  Emporia  103. 
Seriphos  492. 
Serpentara  144. 
Serpents,  Isle  of  564. 
Serra  d'Agua  26. 
Serrado,  Pico  25. 
Serrat,  Cape  132. 
Sers,  Le  360. 
Sersou,  Plateaux  de 

208. 
Servola  427. 
Sestiaria  Promonto- 

rium  124. 
Sestos  534. 
Setif  271. 

Seville  59. 
Alcazar  61. 
Artillery  Arsenal  67. 
Audiencia  65. 
Banks  60. 
Biblioteca  Colombina 

63. 
Bull  Ring  60. 
Cabs  60. 
Cafes  59. 
Calle  de  las  Sierpes 

65. 
Casa  del  Ayunta- 

miento  65. 

—  del  Duque  de  Alba 
66. 

—  de  Pilatos  65. 

—  Lonja  61. 
Churches: 

Cathedral  63. 
Omnium    Sancto- 
rum 66. 
San  Isidoro  65. 

—  Marcos  66. 

—  Pedro  66. 

—  Salvador  65. 
Santa  Magdalena 

66. 

—  Marina  66. 
University  Church 

66. 
Church  Festivals  60. 
Consuls  60. 
Convento  de  la  Mer- 
ced 66. 

—  de  Santa  Paula  66. 
Custom  House  67. 
Feria  60. 


Seville : 

Giralda  62. 

Hospital  do  la  Cari- 
dad  67. 

Hotels  59. 

Mercado  66. 

Murillo,  Bronze  Sta- 
tue of  66. 

Museo  Arqueol6gico 
66. 

—  de  Pinturas  66. 

—  Provincial  66. 
Palacio  de  Santelmo 

67. 
Parque  Maria  Luisa 

68. 
Paseo  de  Cristobal 

Col6n  67. 

—  de  las  Delicias  67. 
Patio   de  los  Naran- 

jos  62. 
Plaza  de  Atarazanas 
67. 

—  de  la  Constitucion 
65. 

—  del  Museo  66. 

—  del  Pacifico  66. 

—  del  Triunfo  61. 
Post  Office  60. 
Public  Gardens  67. 
Railway  Stations  59. 
Sagrario  65. 
Theatres  60. 
Tobacco  Factorv  68. 
Torre  del  Oro  67. 
Tramways  60. 
Triana  67. 
University  66. 

Seybouse,  the  308.  311. 
Sfa,  Col  de  282. 
Sfax  380. 
Sferra  Cavallo,  Capo 

144. 
Sgrigiua  131. 
Shabla,  Cape  562. 
Esh-Shdm  482. 
SharkiSi  535. 
Sharon  468. 
Shellah  106. 
Shiildma  (Shedma)  110. 
Siagu  364. 

Sibillini,  Monti  428. 
Sicca  Veneria  360. 
Sichem  468. 
Sicie\  Cape  132. 
Sicilian  Straits  396. 
Sicily  146. 

Siddel-BahrKalesi534. 
Sid-el-Kebir  214. 
Sidero,  Cape  492. 


Sidi-Abdallah,   Bay   of 

352. 
Ahmed  352. 

—  -Aich  251. 
Aissa  251. 

—  -Athman  351. 

—  -Ayed  360. 

—  -Bader  325. 

—  Bel-Abbes  186. 
Bel-Hassen,  Fort 

339. 

—  -Bou-Ali  366. 

—  Bou-M6dine  194. 

—  Bou-Rouis  360. 

—  Bou-Said  351. 

—  el-Djoudi  269. 

—  Ferruch  237. 

—  Hamza  186. 

—  el-Hani  370. 

—  el-Hemessi  325. 

—  Khalifa  365. 

—  -Khelil  285. 

—  -Mabrouk  274. 

—  -Madani  215. 
Maklouf  215. 

—  M'Cid,   Rocher  302. 

—  -Medjahed  197. 
Meskine  326. 

—  -Mohammed-Bena- 
ouda  208. 

Okba  283. 

Rached  285. 

Slimiin,    ForSt    de 

243.' 

Yahia,  Anse  de  264. 

Zehili  327. 

Sidon  469. 
Sidra,  Gulf  of  412. 
Siga,  Ruins  of  185. 
— ,  the  185. 
Sigeion  or 
Sigeum  534. 
Sighajik,  Bay  of  491. 
Sigli,  Capo  127. 
Sigri,  Cape  (Sigrium 

Promontorium)  533. 
Sigus  272. 

Sikh  ou  Meddour   iT)(i. 
Sikinos  492. 
Sila  155. 
Sillegue  272. 
Siloah  480. 
Silvium  Promontorium 

429. 
Simeto,  the  159. 
Simitthu  326. 
Singes,  Pic  des  264. 
Sinis  129. 
Sinob  576. 
Sinonia  133. 
Sinope  576. 


604 


INDEX. 


Sinus  Caystrius  491. 

—  Elaeates  533. 

—  Hermaeus  530. 
— ■  Laconicus  494. 
Siphnos  492. 
Sipylos,  Mt.  530. 
Sisara  Lacus  352. 
Sisargas  Islands  3. 
Sis  Dagh  574. 
Sitia  Mts.  491. 
Sitifis  271. 
Skamander,  the  534. 
Skaramanga  Mts.  494. 
Skikda  304. 

Skira  389. 

Skyros  536. 

Sla  106. 

Slata  362. 

Sliema  400. 

Sliten  412. 

Slouguia  354. 

Smindja  358. 

Smyrna  530. 

Sol,  Ponta  do  26. 

Solaro,  Monte  155. 

Soliman  364. 

Soller  112. 

Solum,  Gulf  of  415. 

Sorrento,  Peninsula  of 

135. 
Souf  285. 

Souk  el-Abiod  365. 
Ahras  313. 

—  el-  Arba  (Algeria)  258. 
(Tunisia)  326. 

—  el-Djemaa  257. 

—  el-Haad   (near  Fort 
National)  258. 

(near  M^nerville) 

250. 

—  el-Khemis  327. 

—  et-Tenine  266. 
Soumane  Valley,  the 

128. 
Soummam,  La  252. 
Sour  Kenis  Bay  389. 
Sousse  366. 
Sozopolis  (near  Cyrene) 

414. 

—  (peninsula)  562. 
Spada,  Cape  415. 
Spadillo  396. 
Spalmatori   Islets  493. 
Sparagio,  Monte  152. 
Spartel,  Cape  102. 
Spartivento,  Cape  118. 
Spelonca  di  Ballon  429. 
Spezia,  Gulf  of  134. 
Sphinx,  the  462. 
Sporades,  Northern  536. 
— ,  Southern  490. 


Stagnone,  Lo  153. 
Stambul  540.  542. 

—  Boghaz  557. 
Standia  416. 
StaoueUi  237. 

Trappe  234. 

Stavros,  Cape  416. 
Stella,  Monte  155. 
Stenia  559. 
StepPyramid(Sakkara) 

465. 
Stidia,  La  200. 
Stoechades  Insulae  133. 
Stora  306. 
— ,  Gulf  of  131. 
Stromboli  155. 
Strongyle  155. 
Strophades  502. 
Sua  328. 
Es-Suani  101. 
Suda  Bay  416. 
Es-Sueira  109. 
Suez  Canal  437. 
Sufes  371. 
Sufetula  371. 
Sugar  Loaf  Hill  53.    . 
Suk-Su  Hill  574. 
Suk  Wadi  Barada  484. 
Sulci  129. 
Sullectum  370. 
Sunion,  Cape  529. 
Siir  469. 
Sus  94. 
Susa  366. 

Susra  Mesrata  415. 
Sweet  Waters  of  Asia 

558. 

of  Europe  556. 

Sybota  Islands  500. 
Sycaminum  468. 
Symbolon   Portus   569. 
Symi  (Syme)  490. 
Symplegades  560. 
Syracuse  162. 
Syrian  Desert  485. 

xxxiii. 
Syrias     Promontorium 

576. 
Syrina  Group  492. 
Syrtis  Major  412. 

—  Minor  405. 


Tabarca  327. 
Tabariya  469. 
Tabeditt  372. 
Tabia  186. 
Tabor,  Mt.  469. 
Tacape  389. 
Tacoronte  37. 
Tadergount  268. 


Tadjera,  Mont  125. 
Taenaron,  Cape  493. 
Taenia,  the  344. 
Tafetneh,  Cape  110. 
Tafira  46. 
Tafna,  the  185. 
Taghia  208. 
Taghla,  Col  de  204. 
Tagma,  Col  de  261. 
Tagoje,  Montana  de  48. 
Taguemoun  258. 
Tagus,  the  5. 
Tajura  411. 
Takdempt  208. 
Takembrit  185. 
Takhtaly  530. 
Takitount  269. 
Takorrabt  Bou  Ach- 

batzene  261. 
Takriets  or 
Takritz  251. 
Takrouna  365. 
Taksept  256. 
Talalati  392. 
Tala  Rana  259. 
Talmetz,  Col  de  261. 
Tamaraceite  47. 
Tamarins,  Les  276. 
Tamazaran  207. 
Tamazirt  257. 
Tamelhat,     Zaou'ia    of 

285. 
Tamerna  285. 
Tamezred  388. 
Tamgout  Ha'izer  254. 
Tamyras,  the  469. 
Tangier  98. 
Tanja  99. 
Tanquinhos,    Pico    dos 

26. 
Tanta  438. 
Tantura  468. 
Taormina  158. 
Taount,  Plateau  de  198. 
Taourirt-Amokran  257. 

—  el-Hadjadj  257. 

—  -Ighil,  Chalet  de  261. 

—  -Mimoun  257. 
Taparura  381. 
Tarabosan  572. 
Tarf  273. 

—  ech-Chena  359. 
Tarifa  6. 

Tarja  325. 

Tarkhankut,  Cape  568. 
Tarla,  Col  de  204. 
Tarshish  50. 
Taskenfout  258. 
Tassaft    ou    Guemoun 

257. 
Tatahouine  391. 


INDEX. 


605 


Tauchira  413. 
Tauric  Peninsula  568. 
Tauromenium  158. 
Taurus,  Lycian  490. 
Tauze,  Boca  de  42. 
Tavolara  144. 
Tavshan  Adalar  533. 
Taya  307. 

Taygetos,  Mt.  493.    . 
Tazagraret  125. 
Tazerout  259. 
Tazmalt  251. 
Tebessa  315. 

—  Khalia  318. 
Teboulba  369. 
Teboulbou  391. 
Tebourba  329. 
Teboursouk  355. 
Tedles,  Cape  256. 
Tegueste  37. 
Teide,  Pico  de  41. 
Tejea,  Sierra  89. 
Tejeda  46. 
Tejina  37. 
Tekbalet  185. 
Tekirdagh  535. 
Telde  47. 
Telergma,     Plaine    de 

272. 
Tell  Atlas  169.  xxx. 

—  Basta  439. 
Telli  Tabia  560. 
Tell  Jezer  470. 
Telmine  388. 
Telos  490. 
Temacin  285. 
Temoulga-Vauban  209. 
Tenedos  533. 
Tenera  48. 
Teneriffe  32. 

— ,  Peak  of  41. 
T6nes  209. 
— ,  Cape  209. 
Teniet  el-Haad  210. 

—  et-Tine  269. 
Teno,  Punta  de  47. 

—  Mts.  32. 

Tenoya,  Barranco  de 47. 
Tensift  109. 
Tenzirt  242. 

Teos  491. 
Tergeste  426. 
Teror  47. 
Terracina  135. 
Terranova,  Bay  of  144. 
Terres  Sialines  380. 
Tessan,  Monte  de  124. 
Testa,  Capo  133. 
Testour  354. 
Tetuan  103. 
Teuchira  413. 


Teulada,  Cape  118. 
Thabraca  327. 
Thacia  357. 
Thasnae  383. 
Thagaste  313. 
Thala  362. 
Thamalla  271. 
Thainuda  103. 
Thamugadi  289. 
Thapsos- 159. 
Thapsus  369. 
Tharros  129. 
Tharsis  50. 
Thelepte  371. 
Theodosia  570. 
Thera  417. 
Therapia  559. 
Therasia  492. 
Thermae  Selinuntiae 

154. 
Thermia  492. 
Theveste  315. 
Thibilis  307. 
Thiers  250. 
Thiersville  200. 
Thira  417. 

Thonaire,  Anse  de  153. 
Thuburbo   Majus    359. 

—  Minus  329. 
Thuburnica  325. 
Thubursicum  Bure355. 

—  Numidarum  313. 
Thubusuctu  252. 
Thuccabor  328. 
Thugga  355. 
Thunes  332. 
Thynias  (island)  576. 

—  Promontorium   562. 
Thysdrus  379. 
Tiaret  208. 
Tiberias  469. 

Tichi,  Pointe  266. 
Tichilla  354. 
Tifferdout  259. 
Tigaiga,  Ladera  de  38. 
Tigani  491. 
Tighanimine,  Ravine  of 

278. 
Tiguedidin  285. 
Tigzirt  255. 
Tiklat  252. 
Tilatou  277. 
— ,  Gorges  de  277. 
Tilghemt  216. 
Tilos  490. 
Tilrempt  216. 
Time-en-Hor  437. 
Timgad  289. 
Timri   n'Tguerfa, 

Pointe  130. 
TimsSh,  Lake  438. 


Tingartia  208. 
Tingis,   Ruins   of   101. 
Tino  134. 
Tinoso,  Cabo  112. 
Tinsilt  274. 
Tiout  (oasis)  202. 
Tipasa  (Mauretania) 
239. 

—  (Numidia)  313. 
Tipaza  239. 
Tirabson  572. 
Tireboli  574. 
Tirinadis  215. 
Tirkount  202. 
Tiroual  258. 
Tirourda  259. 

— ,  Col  de  260. 

—  Valley  259. 
Tit  108. 

Titan,  He  du  112. 
Titawan  103. 
Titteri  215. 
Tixiriden  260. 
Tixter-Tocqueville 

271. 
Tizi  (or  Thizi)  200. 

—  el-Arba  254. 

■ —  n-Assoual  258. 

—  Boulma  258. 

—  Guessig  258. 

—  n-Kouilal  259. 

—  Koulmin ,     Lac    de 
258. 

—  N'Bechar  269. 

—  Oufellah ,   Foret  de 
261. 

Ouzou  254. 

—  Tirkabin  259. 
Tlalet  392. 
Tlemcen  187. 

— ,  Massif  de  187.  169. 
Tleta  253. 
Tobruk  415. 
Tocina  68. 
Toc6n  72. 
Tocqueville  271. 
Tokra  413. 
Tolfa  Mts.  135. 
Tolmeita  413. 
Tolometta  414. 
Tomat  Niha  469. 
Tombeau    de   la  Chre- 
tienne  238. 

—  de  la  Neige  252. 
Tomi  563. 

Top  Dagh  558. 
Torinana,  Cabo  3. 
Toro,  II  118. 
Torre  del  Faro  158. 
Torsa,  Cape  125. 
Tortoli  Marina  144. 


606 


INDEX. 


Toual  el-Chridi  382. 
Touchaid  208. 
Toudja  262. 
Toudjane  391. 
Touggourt  285. 
Toukabeur  328. 
Toukouch,  Cape  131. 
Toulon,  Bay  of  133. 
Tozeur  387. 
Trafalgar,  Cape  58. 
Tragara,  Punta  155. 
Tragia  490. 
Tralimet  197. 
Trapani  153. 
Trapezus  572. 
Trappe,  La  237. 
Traras  Mts.  169.  198. 
Trebizond  572. 
Trembles,    Les    (near 

Algiers)  248. 
— ,  Les  (near  Oran)  186. 
Tremiti  Islands  428. 
Tres  Forcas,  Cape  124. 
Trieste  425. 
Triopium  Promon- 

toriurn  490. 
Tripoli  in  Barbary  406. 
Tripolis  (Tireboli)  574. 
Tripolitania  407. 
Troas  (Troad)  533. 
Trogilos  159. 
Trois-Palmiers,   Les 

209. 
Troodos,  the  489. 
Trou  du  Diable  208. 
Troy  534. 
Tsarigrad  540. 
Tsor  Kersa  Islands  414. 
Tuat  Oases  216. 
Tuileries,  Les  313. 

Tunis  329. 
Administration  des 

Habous  334. 
El-Ariana  338. 
Avenue  de  France 
333. 

—  de  la  Marine  333. 

—  Jules-Ferry  333. 
Bab  Alleoua  339. 

—  Djedid  337. 

—  el-Khadra  339. 

—  Sidi  Abdallah  339. 

Kassem  339. 

Banks  331. 

Bardo  339. 
Baths  331. 
Bibliotbeque  Fran- 
chise 333. 
Bordj  Flifel  338. 

—  Rabta  338. 


Tunis: 

Boulevard  Bab-Benat 

337. 
Cafds  330. 
Carriages  330. 
Casino  Municipal  333. 
Cemeteries  337.  338. 

339. 
Chateau  d'Eau  339. 
Churches : 

Cathedral  333. 

Ste.  Croix  334. 
College  Alaoui  339. 

—  Sadiki  337. 
Consulates   831.  334. 
Dar  el-Bey  336. 

—  -Hussein  336. 
Direction    des   Anti- 

quites  334. 
Division  d'Occupa- 

tion  336. 
Djamaa,  seeMosques. 
Ecole  Coloniale 

d'Agriculture   338. 

—  Professionnelle 
Loubet  338. 

Feskia  339. 

Fort  Sidi  Bel-Hassen 

339. 
Hara  337. 
Harbour  333. 
Hospitals  335.  338. 
Hotels  329. 
Institut  Pasteur  338. 
Jardin  d'Essais   338. 

—  du  Belvedere  338. 
Jewish  Quarter  337. 
Jules  Ferry,    Statue 

of  333. 
Kasba  336. 
Kassar-Said  342. 
Manouba,  La  342. 
Manoubia  Hill  339. 
Marche"  333. 
Market  Quarter  337. 
Melassine  339. 
Mida,  the  338. 
Mosques: 

Djamaa  Djedid  336. 

—  Sahab  et-Taba 
337. 

—  ez-Zitouna  334. 
Kasba  336. 
el-Ksar  336. 

Sidi  Ben-Arous 
336. 

—  Mahrez  337. 

—  Mohammed-Bey 
337. 

—  Youssef  335. 
desTeinturiers386. 


Tunis: 
Motor  Cars  330. 
Murad  Bey's  Burial 

Chapel  335. 
Musee  Alaoui  340. 

—  Arabe  342. 

—  du  Bardo  840. 
Palace   of   the  Beys 

340. 

—  of  the  Harem 
(Bardo)  340. 

Palais  de  Justice  337. 

—  de    la   Residence 
333. 

Pavilion    de   la   Ma- 
nouba 338. 
Physicians  331. 
Piccola  Sicilia  338. 
Place  Bab-Souika  337 

—  de  la  Bourse  344. 

—  de   la  Kasba  336. 

—  de  la  Residence 
333. 

—  el-Halfaouine  337. 
Post  Office  330. 
Railway  Station  329. 

333. 
Rebat  Bab-Djazira 

387. 

Souika  337. 

Restaurants  330. 
Rue  de  la  Kasba  334. 

—  de  l'Eglise  334. 
— '  des  Andalous  336. 
Potiers  337. 

—  du  Riche  336. 
Souks   835.  334.  337. 
Steamboat  Agents 

331. 

Synagogues  337. 

Tekia  337. 

Telegraph  Office  330. 

Theatres  331. 

Tourbet  el-Bey  336. 

Tramways  330. 

University  334. 

Zaou'ia  Sidi  Bel-Has- 
sen 339. 

Mahrez  337. 

Tunis,  Gulf  of  129.  xxx. 
— ,  Lac  de  129. 
Tunisia  319. 
Turbie,  La  112. 
Turenne  197. 
Tunis  Tamaleni  388. 
Tuscan  Archipelago 

143. 
Tusla,  Cape  563. 
Tusuros  387. 
Tuzer  887. 


INDEX. 


607 


Tyras  564. 
Tyre  469. 
Tyropoeon  472. 
Tyrrhenian  Sea  131. 
xxxi. 


Dcubis  357. 

Ujda  197. 

Ulisipo  9. 

Ulisse,  Scoglio  di  499. 

Umago  429. 

Um  er-Rebia  108. 

Unia  575. 

Unie  429. 

Uniyeh  575. 

Ushant  2. 

Ustica  146. 

Uthina  358. 

Utica  353. 

— ,  Bay  of  129.   * 

Utrera  57. 

Uzalis  370. 

Uzes-le-Duc  208. 


Vacca,  La  129. 
Vado,  Cape  113. 
Vaga  328. 
Valde  303. 

Valencia.  Bay  of  112. 
Valineo,  Gulf  of  133. 
Valletta  899. 
Valiny  185. 

Vandama,   Pico  de  46. 
Vanikioi  558. 
Vara.ssova  500. 
Varna  562. 
Vasampus  314. 
Vathy  491. 
Vaticano,  Cape  155. 
Vedra  112. 
Vega,  the  73. 
Velez  de  la  Gomera, 

Peiion  de  123. 
Venere,  Monte  158. 
Venice  419. 
Ventimiglia  113. 
Ventotene  134. 
Vepillium  388. 
Verde,  Capo  113. 
Verecunda  289. 
Vesoul-Benian  212. 
Vesuvius,  Mt.  135. 
Vettore,  Monte  428. 
Victor-Hugo  185. 
Victoria  (Malta)  404. 


Victoria  (Teneriffe)  38. 
Vicn8  Augusti  370. 
Viento,  Pico  del  46. 
Vierge,  Ravin  de  la  185. 
Vieste  428. 
Vieux-Kouba  231. 

T6nes  209. 

Vigo  3. 
Vilaflor  42. 
Villa  Baleira  20. 
Villafranca  112. 
Villano,  Cabo  3. 
Villa  Orotava  40. 
Villas  237. 

Villa  San  Giovanni  159. 
Villefranche  112. 
Vinte  e  Cinco  Fontes  26. 
Vita,  Capo  della  135. 
Vitello,  II  129. 
Vittoriosa  400. 
Voi'dia  500. 
Voile  Noire  181. 
Volscian  Mts.  135. 
Vona,  Cape  575. 
Vulcano  155. 
Vurla,  Bay  of  530. 

Wad  el-Ihud  101. 
Wadi  Miserara  470. 

—  es-Sarar  470. 

—  el-Werd  470. 

—  Yahfufeh  483. 
"Walediya  Lake  108. 
Waran  177. 
Warnier  209. 
Washington, Monte  102. 

Xeres  59. 
Xiphonia  159. 

Yaila  Mts.  568. 
Yakouren  261. 
Yalta  569. 

Yamanlar  Dagh  538. 
Yarmuk  Valley  469. 
Yasun  Burnu  575. 
Yeguas,  Sierra  de  72. 
Yenikale,  Straits  of 

570. 
Yenikioi  559. 
Yeni  Mahalleh  559. 
Yenishehr  534. 
Yeshil  Irinak  575. 
Yoros,  Cape  574. 

—  Kalesi  560. 


Youks-les-Bains  318. 

314. 
Yum  Burnu  560. 
Yusha  Dagh  559. 


Zaatra  253. 

Zab,  Monts  du  280. 170. 

Zafarines,  lies  124. 

Zafran  360. 

Zaghouan  359. 

Zahleh  483. 

Zahres  Chergui  169. 

—  Gharbi  169. 
Zakazik  439. 
Zakynthos  502. 
Zammarin  468 
Zana  275. 
Zancle  157. 
Zannone  133. 
Zante  502. 
Zaoui'et  el-Arab  388. 

—  Sahraoui  387. 

—  Sousse  378. 
Zaregrad,  Mouth  of  the 

564. 
Zarpath  469. 
Zarytus  353. 
Zarzis  392. 
Zarzouna  353. 
Ez-Zebedani  484. 
Zefireh  Burnu  574. 
ZeitUn  Burnu  562. 
Zelboun  197. 
Zella  (Africa)  369. 
Zelythen  412. 
Zembra  153. 
Zembretta  153. 
Zenaga  206. 
— ,  -Col  de  204. 
Zephyros,  Cape  574. 
Zeralda  238. 
Zerghaya  483. 
Zevgari,  Cape  490. 
Ziama  267.' 
Zian  392. 

Zibans,  Route  des  283. 
Zilis  104. 
Zita  392. 

Zizerin,  Cape  243. 
Zoster,  Cape  529. 
Zouarines,  Les  361. 
Zoudj-el-Beghal  198. 
Zousfana,  the  203. 
Zucchabar  211. 
Zurich  244. 
Zygos,  Mt.  500. 


Printed  if  Germany  by  Grimme  &  Tromel,  Leipzig. 


L  007  674  052  1 


UC  SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 


A  A         001  428  624  9 


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