Memoirs of Father Ripa, during thirteen years' residence at the court of Peking in the service of the emperor of China; with an account of the foundation of the college for the education of young Chinese at Naples

WILEY AND PUTNAM'S

LIBRARY OF

CHOICE READIN^G.

MEIOIES OF FATHER EIPA.

MEMOIRS

OF

FATHER RIPA,

^"m.

THIRTEEN YEARS' RESIDENCE AT THE COURT OF PEKING
IN THE SERVICE OF THE EMPEROR OF CHINA ;

AN ACCOUNT OF THE FOUNDATION OF THE COLLEGE FOR THE
EDUCATION OF YOUNG CHINESE AT NAPLES.

^'::--^ > ^

SELECTED AND TRANSLATED FROM THE ITALIAN BY

FORTUNATO PRANDI.

NEW YORK:

WILEY & PUTNAM, 161 BROADWAY.

1846.

Stereotyped by

RICHARD C. VALENTINE,

45 Gold-street, New York.

C. A. ALVORD, Printer,
Corner of John and Dutch streets

PREFACE.

The following pages are a condensation of the most in-
teresting portions of Father Ripa's ' History of the Chinese
College,' published at Naples in 1832, in three volumes
octavo. For any amusement or instruction that the reader
may derive from their perusal, he v^ill be indebted to Sir
Woodbine Parish. But for him, Father Ripa's v^ork, like
those of several other modern Italian historians, of far greater
merit, v^ould never, perhaps, have been known in this coun-
try. Sir Woodbine Parish had himself intended to pubhsh
it in English, connected with the map of Peking, which he
obtained at the Chinese College at Naples. Other more
important avocations having prevented him from executing
his intention, the task has fallen to the share of the actual
translator. The original title has not been retained, because
the present abridgment is more intended to give the passages
relating to China, than those concerning the institution to
which the Italian work is especially devoted.

It may perhaps not be uninteresting to the English reader
to know, that it was from Father Ripa's foundation that Lord
Macartney obtained two interpreters for his embassy.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Early Life — An Impressive Sermon — Duty of a Confessor — Resolution to
enter the Church — Mysterious Vision — Order to proceed to China — Depart-
ure for Rome — Sojourn in the Ecclesiastical College . Page 11

CHAPTER IL

Pilgrimage to Loreto — Roman Police — Inhospitable Monks — St. Chiara's
Heart — Return to Rome — Mission to Capradosso — ^Vendetta — Extraordinary
Reconciliation ...... 17

CHAPTER HI.

Departure for China — The Pope's farewell Gifts — Scene at Bologna — Awful
Visitation at Brixen — Detention at Cologne — Disguise — Arrival in London
— English Women — Drawing Lots for a Saint . . .23

CHAPTER IV.

Setting sail for Bengal — Loss of Luggage — Flying-fish — The Christening —
Rigid Observance of the Sabbath — Catching a Shark — Climbing to the
Main-top — The Cape of Good Hope — Conversions aboard . . 31

CHAPTER V.

The Mouth of the Ganges — Ignorance of a Monk — Recruiting Missionaries —
Advice to Authors — Sun-Worshippers — St. Thomas's Prophecy — The
Transmigration of Souls — A Woman Exorcised . . .37

CHAPTER VI.

Departure for Manilla — Miraculous Escape — Preaching in earnest — Cardinal
do Toumon's Imprisonment in Macao — His Death — The Population of
China — Order to Paint for the Emperor .... 42

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER YII.

Departure for Peking — The Candle-Hills — ^Chinese Porters — Navigation of
the River Nan-kiang-huo — Sacrifices — Fishing- Birds . Page 49

CHAPTER VIII.

Dangers of Medical Practice — Missionary Pride — Foundlings — Mahomc-
dans ......... 54

CHAPTER IX.

Introduction to the Emperor — The Ko-tow — Climate and Clothing — ^Abun-
dance of Game — Chinese Stoves — Description of Peking . .59

CHAPTER X.

Oil-Painting — Chinese Delicacies— The New Year — Parental Authority —
Jealousy — Punishment by Proxy — Women's Feet — Visiting -Cards 66

CHAPTER XL

Sacrifice to Heaven — Fireworks — The Emperor's Palace near Peking —
Landscape Gardening — Chinese Flattery . . . .72

CHAPTER XH.

Survey of China, Tartary, and Corea — Order to engrave — -Fall from a Horse
— Tartar Surgeon — Water Cure ..... 77

CHAPTER Xm.

The Great Wall — Mountain near Je-hol — Attempts to engrave — Description
of Je-hol — The Emperor's Country Life . . . 81

CHAPTER XIV.

The Emperor's Retinue — The Little Hunt — Stag-hunting — Tiger-hunting —
Wrestling and Archery — Silence in the Camp . . .86

CHAPTER XV.

Chinese Letters — Imperial Condescension — The Christians in Danger — Con-
versions— Strict Discipline— The Crown Prince deposed — the Emperor's
Sixtieth Birth-day . , ... 93

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVI.

Public Rejoicings — Provincial Deputations — Strawberries and Asparagus —
The First Pupil — Regard of the Chinese for their Beards — Russian
Priests ....... Page 99

CHAPTER XVII.

Dread of the Plague — Death of Father Tilisch — Alarm among the Christians
— Firmness of the Emperor — His Avarice — Origin of the Chinese Col-
lege ......... 104

CHAPTER XVni.

Chapels for Women — Chinese Jealousy — Don Pedrini arrested — Machinations
against the School — Lucio — John In vrithdrawn — His Father's Death — His
Return — A Dream . . . . . . .109

CHAPTER XIX.

Arrival of the Russian Embassy — Point of Etiquette — Imperial Manifesto^ —
Mutual Concessions . . . . .115

CHAPTER XX.

Reception of Count Ismailof — Court Dinner — Eulogy of the European Mis-
sionaries— Presents — The Emperor's Advice to the Czar . . 121

CHAPTER XXI.

The Emperor in Bed — Life at Je-hol — A quid pro quo — Hard Living — Illness
ofScipel 127

CHAPTER XXII.

Death of the Emperor Kang-hy — Funeral Rites — Punishment of two great
Mandarins ..... . . 132

CHAPTER XXm.

Exclusion of Europeans from the Imperial Palace— Plotting — Death of the
Emperor's Mother — Difficulties — Final Resolution to depart . 138

CHAPTER XXIY.

Permission to quit China — Farewell Presents — Departure from Peking —
Cheap Travelling — Variations of Climate — Arrival at Canton — Pecuniary
Difficulties — Supernatural Agency — Providential Occurrence 145

10 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXV.

Setting Sail for England — Chinese in Trouble — Staying a Storm — Again —
Chinese Modesty — Mr. Edmund Godfrey — A Substitute for the Compass —
Anonymous Liberality ..... Page 151

CHAPTER XXVI.

Casting Anchor at Deal — Importunity of Boatmen — Rapacity of Custom-
house Officers — National Monuments — Liberality of King George I. — Of
the East India Company's Directors — Of Mr. Edmund Godfrey- — Sailing
for Leghorn ....... 156

CHAPTER XXVII.

Arrival at Naples — St. January's Blood — Permission to establish the Chinese
College — Reception of two Chinese Students . .161

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Examination of two Chinese Students — Their Departure for China — Death
of John In — Flight of Lucio U-— 'His Arrest and Trial — His Evasion and
Recapture — Mysterious end . . . .165

CONCLUSION.

A Visit to the Chinese College at Naples founded by Father Ripa . 171

FATHER RIPA'S

RESIDENCE AT THE COURT OF PEIING.

CHAPTER I.

Early Life — An Impressive Sermon — Duty of a Confessor —Resolution to
enter the Church — Mysterious Vision — Order to proceed to China — De-
parture for Rome — Sojourn in the Ecclesiastical College.

In the year 1700, as I was strolling one day about the streets
of Naples in search of amusement, I came to the open space
before the Viceregal Palace just at the moment when a Francis-
can friar, mounted on a bench, began to address the people. I
was only eighteen ; but though so young, I was then leading a
life which I could scarcely describe without shocking the
reader. Amid all my vices, however, it was fortunate for me
that I always listened with pleasure to religious discourses, not
indeed with a view to derive any profit or instruction from them,
but merely out of curiosity. The preacher took for his text
these words of the prophet Amos, " For three transgressions of
Damascus, and for four, I will not turn away the punishment
thereof;" and he proved that there were a certain number of
sins which God would forgive, but that beyond that number there is
no salvation for any one. From the proofs he passed to the
morality of the doctrine, and here he brought in the beautiful
illustration of the scales, which, when equally balanced, the
smallest addition will weigh down. " Thus," said the worthy
father, "if when our sins are equal to our counterpoise we

:

12 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

commit one more offence, the beam on which our lot is weighed
will turn and fix our eternal perdition ; and as we do not know
when our scales are balanced, if we transgress at the risk of
such a punishment, we deserve condemnation."

This was not to me a mere figurative illustration, it was a
gleam of heavenly light by which I perceived the dangerous
path I was treading; and methought I saw God himself mena-
. cing me from above, while below the torments of hell lay
ready to receive me. On recovering from the horror I felt at
the sight of the danger to which I had so long thoughtlessly ex-
posed myself, I ardently thanked the Almighty for thus recalling
me to Himself, and, full of repentance, I resolved to devote the
remainder of my life entirely to his service. When the Fran-
ciscan had finished his impressive sermon, to strengthen my
purpose I proceeded at once to the church of the great apostle
of India, St. Francis Xavier, which was close by ; and there,
having found a Jesuit, who, by the will of God, was preaching
on the same subject in the presence of the Host, I had the most
favorable opportunity of fulfilling my object.

At dusk I returned home, and as I began to consider how I
might best serve God, I felt inspired with a desire not only to
enter the Church, but to do something more than this, though
in spite of unceasing meditations I was unable to discover what.
I thought of entering several religious orders, but none came
up to my aspirations. I imagined that I should find peace in
the performance of the duties of a secular priest ; but this did
not satisfy the cravings of my heart : as one who is hungry, after
eating a moderate portion of delicate food, still longs for some-
thing more. This something more was, however, exactly what
1 could not discover ; but by degrees I conceived a strong wish
to found a new~ community of regular priests, although I was far
from comprehending the character of such an institution. I
said nothing of this to any confessor, because I was so ignorant
in religious matters, that I did not know that even in the path
of virtue it is necessary to have a guide. In this state of igno-
rance I lived for eight months, now confessing to one priest
and now to another, without ever meeting with any one who
took any pains to direct my way. A fault, by the by, for which

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 13

those confessors who merely listen to sinners, without endeavor-
ing to point out to them the vocation for which they are fitted,
will have to account to God. Fortunately, however, I made
the acquaintance of Don Niccolo Vinaccia, who recommended
me to read the Filotea of St. Francois de Sales, by which I per-
ceived the necessity of having a spiritual guide ; and on the 10th
of May, 1701, at the suggestion of Don Niccolo, I confessed for
the first time to Father Antonio Torres, of the Order of the
Pious Laborers, to whom I avowed my desire to enter the
Church, and implored his advice. This benevolent man, as was
his custom, had held me clasped in his arms ] but on hearing my
prayer, he suddenly drew back, opening his arms, and fixed his
eyes on me for some time without uttering a word. Then em-
bracing me again with transport, but without asking any ques-
tion, as confessors are wont to do in order to ascertain the voca-
tion of their penitents, he exclaimed, " Yes, my son ; take holy or-
ders, and henceforward I will be your father in God ;" and happy
has it been for me that he has been my spiritual director ever since.

With the approbation of this holy father, I entered the Church
on the 26th of the same month ; and having been enrolled in the
congregation of the Holy Mary of Purity, I began the duties of
active life, doing my best to promote the salvation of those
around me. But I felt all the time that I was called to some-
thing else, and my desire to institute a new religious community
became more and more strong. To the glory of God, for it is
our duty to acknowledge his wonderful works, I must relate what
then befell me with reference to this institution.

In consequence of indisposition, I was obliged to go with
another young priest, who was very ill, to the Montagnola for
change of air. "We remained there about six months. My
companion was an excellent young man, and as I devoted some
attention to my spiritual improvement, I may venture to say
that, thanks to his good example, my time w^as piously spent.
One day, as my friend was at prayers in his room, and I in mine,
1 was seized with an ardent desire to retire to some place where
I might acquire the knowledge necessary to an ecclesiastic,
when all at once a clear and audible voice thrilled through my
soul, saying, "to Rome."

14 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

I was struck with awe ; and while, absorbed in thought, I
wondered at the mysterious sound, a motley multitude of things
floated before my mind, not in corporeal or spiritual forms, but
in a purely intellectual manner which I cannot describe. It
was then impressed upon my mind that the institution I was so
anxious to establish was to consist of secular priests, wholly re-
moved from worldly cares, and exclusively devoted to prayer,
study, and preaching ; and that in order that nothing might
divert them from these pursuits, another class of ecclesiastics,
like the Pious Laborers, should minister to their temporal wants.
That, as to dress, those of the first class should wear a habit dif-
ferent from that of any other religious community ; with no hood
or cap on their head, but with some other covering ; not with
shoes or sandals, but shod in another fashion. This vision was
short, but it made such an impression on my mind, that although
it took place more than thirty years ago, I remember it as dis-
tinctly as if it had happened but yesterday.

On the completion of my twenty-third year, by the express
command of Father Torres, I repaired to Salerno to be ordained.
The day before my departure, when I went to take leare of him,
he bade me on my return begin my novitiate as Pious Laborer ;
and although I answered that I felt no inclination to such a
vocation, he insisted on my obeying him unreservedly. I there-
fore conformed to his will ; but while, as I journeyed on, my
mind dwelt on my being thus obliged to become a Pious Laborer,
though I had the greatest veneration for that religious order, I
felt so sad and depressed, that I could scarcely walk. How-
ever, being determined to obey Father Torres, I waited upon
him as soon as I came back to Naples, and requested an order
of admission to my novitiate. He had returned from Rome only
the day before, and was surrounded by a number of his penitents.
The moment he saw me, he said, " Good morning to you, good
man ; prepare for China."

I was surprised, and wondered what he could mean ; for I had
never heard any thing about China. Perceiving this. Father
Torres added, that China was a nation of idolaters, who, from
want of laborers in the Gospel, lived in the darkness of heathen-
ism; that Clement XL, the reigning Pope, with a view to

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 15

remedy this evil, had recently attached to the Propaganda a
college for the instruction of European ecclesiastics in the
Chinese language, that they might carry the light of the Holy
Gospel to those benighted heathens, and that accordingly his
Holiness had commanded him to send some of his penitents to
Rome for that purpose.

As Father Torres spake these words, the mist which filled my
mind vanished, and I now, greatly to my wonder, perceived that
this was the very service to which God had called me. When
we were left alone, I asked him whether he had spoken in jest
or in earnest, as in the latter case I would go to China willingly.
" Whether you will or not, to China you shall go," he replied.

'' How then can I pass my novitiate with you, if I am to enter
the College at Rome in order to go to China ?" said I.

At first he did not understand me, for he had forgotten that
he had ordered me to become a Pious Laborer ; but after I had
reminded him of this, he answered, " Pious Laborer ! Pious
Laborer ! God has destined you for the Chinese mission."

This made me perfectly happy ; and I walked home so eleva-
ted in spirit, that I scarcely felt the ground I trod on.

On the 26th of November, 1705, I set out for Rome with
Don Gennaro Amodei, a Calabrian priest, who also had been
proposed by Father Torres for the Chinese mission. We reach-
ed our destination on the 30th, and were kindly received by our
superiors, and by the Pope, to whom they presented us. Our
apartments in the Propaganda not being yet ready, we took up
our quarters at an inn ; but as it is not decorous for ecclesiastics
to dwell in places of this description, and moreover, as we had
no money to pay the landlord, we resolved to seek refuge in the
Ecclesiastical College, erected by Innocent XH. for the pur-
pose of rescuing houseless priests from the dangers of lodging-
houses. We still however had to pay about twenty shillings a
month for our board and lodging ; and as we had nothing towards
making up this sum but the five pence a-day we got /or the
mass, I was obliged, with great shame and reluctance, to ask
alms in order to provide the remainder.

That I might reduce my expenses as much as possible, I
mended my own clothes, washed my only shirt at night, and

16 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

even slept on a mat ; owing to which I have been dreadfully
tormented with rheumatism ever since. In this distress we pe-
titioned his holiness for some assistance, and he allowed us ten
shillings a month, which was just enough to meet our wants.
Being aware how important it is to lead a methodical life,
during our stay in the Ecclesiastical College we apportioned
different hours of the day for study, prayer, and all other occu-
pations ; and in the evening, after a rigid self-examination, we
confessed to one another, Don Amodei kneeling before me, ac-
cusing himself of his faults and temptations, and kissing my
feet ; and I afterwards going through the same holy duty with
him. Don Amodei was a most excellent and pious young man,
gifted with every virtue, and distinguished by a purity of mind
which he guarded v^ith the greatest solicitude ; but unfortunately
he sometimes allowed his religious zeal to carry him too far, in-
sisting, in spite of his very delicate constitution, in living on
bread and water, and subjecting himself to all sorts of mortifica-
tions.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 17

CHAPTER II.

Pilgrimage to Loreto — Roman Police — Inhospitable Monks— -St. Chiara*s
Heart — Return to Rome — Mission to Capradosso — Vendetta — Extraor-
dinary Reconciliation.

One day about this time, as we were praying before the Host,
beseeching God to grant that our apartments in the Propaganda
might soon be ready, we were both inspired with a fervent desire
to go on a pilgrimage to Loreto, for the purpose of imploring the
favor of the Holy Virgin. After obtaining the permission of our
superiors, and the benediction of the Pope, we set out on our
journey.

The first day of our pilgrimage, as we approached Castel
Gandolfo singing canticles, at which Don Amedei was very ex-
pert, a gentleman on horseback overtook us, and being edified at
our behavior, pressed us to make use of his horse. On our
resolutely declining the offer, he insisted that we should at least
stop at his house. We did so, and he gave us a sumptuous sup-
per and comfortable accommodation.

We were not so fortunate the next evening at Civita Castel-
lana, in the hospital destined for pilgrims, where we could obtain
no supper, and had to sleep on a paillasse, without sheets or
blankets.

x\t another place on the road, of which I have forgotten the
name, we entered a shop to buy some food ; and while we waited
to be served, we saw a man cautiously open a closet, and place
two pistols in it, unobserved by the master. Shortly afterwards
some constables came in, went straight to the closet, took out
the pistols, and arrested the cheesemonger on the pretence of his
keeping prohibited arms. The poor fellow repeatedly protested
his innocence, but to no purpose. They handcuffed him, and
took him to prison. Having witnessed the transaction, we imme-
diately offered, in the presence of the constables, to give evi-
dence in behalf of the prisoner, but they took no heed of what
we said. Our words, however, had more weight with the prelate

2

18 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

who governed the place, and the injured man was released,
whereupon he came, with all his family, to thank us for having,
by the interposition of God, saved him from such imminent
danger.

At the beginning of our pilgrimage we walked about twenty
miles a-day ; but as Don Amodei grew weaker and weaker, and
was in a state of constant fever, we spent forty days in a journey
which otherwise might have been completed in less than a fort-
night. Besides his baggage and my own, I was often obliged to
support him, hanging by my neck, for considerable distances,
especially up-hill. At last he became so faint, that in a wood
near Rieti he dropped to the ground, saying that he could no
longer continue his journey, although we were on level ground,
and only two miles from a place of rest. My distress may be
easily conceived, and I was under the necessity of leaving him
alone while I w^ent for assistance. Not far from the spot I
found a cottage, but the moment I knocked at the door I was
surrounded by dogs, who growled and barked at me with great
fury ; and a peasant who was close by, taking me for a thief,
also assailed me with stones and abuse. I had the greatest dif-
ficulty in persuading him that I was no thief, but a priest who
came to implore his aid in behalf of a dying man. At last I
succeeded, and he came with a donkey to convey my friend to a
convent, on arriving at the gate of which we had to ring the
bell for half an hour before any one appeared. A monk then
came out in a rage, and exclaiming, " Oh ! it is you, is it, who
have been ringing so much!" he banged the door in our face.

We were thunderstruck at such treatment ; and while con-
sulting what we should do, the wretch of a monk again opened
the door, giving us, in an unglazed plate, a few drops of vinegar,
with two pieces of bread, so black that I had never seen the
like. On my saying that we were provided with victuals, but
implored shelter, he interrupted me with saying, " You may
take it, if you please ;" and again slamming the door in our
faces, he disappeared.

We then went into the church of the convent to recommend
ourselves to God, and await in prayer some effect of his divine
providence. Fortunately some very humane and devout ladies

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. I9

came in, who, seeing the exhausted state of my companion,
began to talk with us, expressing deep compassion, and asked
why we did not go into the convent for refreshment and repose.
While I answered their questions, there appeared in the pres-
bytery a friar with a candle in his hand, whom those ladies
pointed out to us as the Father Guardian of the convent. I im-
mediately went up to him, and begged him to grant us shelter
for the night ; but the moment he perceived me he ran away, as
though I had been the Evil One, without paying the least atten-
tion to my words. Shortly afterwards, however, the same monk
who had treated us so roughly at the door came to take us to a
cell on the ground-floor, where he gave us a miserable supper.
On our telling him that we had some food in our wallet, and that
we only wanted a light by which to read our prayers, he repri-
manded us severely for our supposed neglect in having delayed
the performance of our duty to God until it was so late.

We had not yet recovered from our mortification when it
pleased God to comfort us by sending to our cell a page and a
servant from the ladies who had spoken to us, bringing with
them an excellent supper. Immediately after our meal I went
to thank our benefactresses for their charity ; and I found them
under the porch of the church, seated at a sumptuous table,
making good cheer with the father guardian and some other
friars of his order. The next morning before our departure, we
were desirous of expressing our gratitude to his reverence for
the hospitality he had granted us, but although we searched
about the convent for a long time, we could not find either him
or any of his friars.

After suffering many hardships, which I will not stop to de-
tail, we at last arrived at Loreto, where we visited the Holy
House and various other sanctuaries. Among these, that of
Montefalco deserves particular notice ; for it contains the corpse
of St. Chiara in such a state of preservation that her hands and
face are as fresh and ruddy as though she were alive. We
adored her heart, which was cut open, and in which, with great
astonishment, we observed, in bas-relief, the implements of the
passion of our Lord, and our Lord himself on the cross. I must
not omit to say, that while I lay under a rock, awaiting my turn

FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

for reading mass in the chapel where St. Francis of Assisi re-
ceived from God the remission of his sins, a large serpent fell
from above close to my face, but immediately crawled away
without doing me any harm.

On our return to Rome, after a pilgrimage of forty days, Don
Amodei, being more dead than alive, went into the infirmary of
the Ecclesiastical College ; and after a severe illness, the
physicians sent him to Naples to recover his health.

Being left alone in Rome, I applied myself assiduously to the
study of moral theology ; and at Lent, after passing the examina-
tion required, I was sent to preach at Capradosso. Among
various edifying cases which I witnessed in the course of my
mission, the following shows how God, in his ineffable goodness,
was pleased, by means of my youthful ardor, to compose a
deadly feud which distracted a whole family :— ^

An old man of that place, with six of his sons, had for several
years sought the life of a relative who had murdered his seventh
son. Neither the exhortations of several ecclesiastics nor the
authority of Cardinal Barberini and other distinguished person-
ages who had interposed, had been sufficient to reconcile them.
The unfortunate murderer wandered day and night about the
mountains and forests to escape from his pursuers. Various
persons informed me of this circumstance, and solicited me to
do my utmost to pacify the family. The fugitive himself, ac-
companied by several of his friends, all in arms, came down
from the mountains under cover of the night, to entreat me to the
same effect.

I waited till Easter, when I knew that his uncle and cousins
would come to confession. The latter did, one after the other,
come to my feet, and I exhorted them to peace. They all re-
plied that they bore no hatred in their hearts to the assassin, and
that they were ready to forgive him, if the permission of their
father, in whose power they were, could be obtained. Last of
all, the father came to confession ; and after I had admonished
him at great length, he told me that he did not entertain any
resentment against his nephew, but that he wished justice to
take its course. I at once understood his object in this subter-
fuge, and therefore commanded him to repeat the Lord's Prayer,

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 31

which he did, not suspecting my intentions. When he came
to the words, "And forgive us our trespasses as we forgive
them that trespass against us," I desired him to explain their
force and meaning ; whereupon, by the Divine gi*ace, he burst
into a flood of tears. Having recovered his composure, he
promised to pardon and embrace his nephew, for the love of
Jesus Christ, the first time he should meet him. As, however, I
feared that his resolution might be a transient ebullition rather
than a holy purpose, I sent secretly to'the fugitive nephew,
directing him to conceal himself in the belfry on a certain even-
ing, when I intended to preach upon the subject of love to our
enemies, and if in the course of the sermon I should call him,
fearlessly to come forward, accompanied by the rector and his
other friends.

By the divine assistance, my efforts were crowned with the
happiest results. At about dusk, when I had finished my sermon
upon love to our enemies, at which all the injured family were
present, I intimated that the women might go home in peace,
and that the men only should remain to do penance. I then
caused the door of the church to be locked, and in a short dis-
course I exhorted them to self-castigation. After this, the
crucifix, as I had previously arranged, was brought out of the
sacristy, and borne between two lighted torches. At the same
time I repeated the most cogent arguments which I had used in
my sermon, and urged the congregation to put in practice what
they had heard, pardoning each other, and embracing in sign of
peace. Many who had been at variance then came and embraced
each other at my feet. Such was the emotion and the fervor
of the congregation that they w^ere all in tears. Perceiving
among them the uncle of the assassin, I called him by name, and
he immediately came and threw himself at my feet. I asked him
in the presence of all whether he really forgave his nephew, and
he replied in a deliberate tone that he did. I inquired if he
promised this in the name of Jesus Christ, whose image he then
held in his hand ; and he answered in the affirmative. I made
him repeat this several times in- a loud voice. Then I blessed
him, his family, and all his concerns, in the name of our Lord,
for the great satisfaction he gave to God, and to all the court

22 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

of Heaven, by granting pardon, for the love of Christ, to the
man by whom he had been injured ; and finally I asked him, if
at that moment his culpable nephew were on his knees to ask
forgiveness, for the love of Christ, how he would act ? He re-
plied that he would gladly take him to his heart. I then made
the signal agreed upon, and the offender was conducted by the
rector into my presence. As soon as he was seen approaching,
the sobbing of the people increased. The old man was greatly
surprised at this, for he stood with his back to the entrance, and
did not see his nephew, who, however, the next moment fell at
his feet, craving pardon, for the love of Christ. At first the old
man stood motionless, struck with surprise. He seemed be-
wildered by the extraordinary scene, and knew not what to do.
I endeavored to calm him ; and, with the crucifix in my hand,
I reiterated my arguments to induce him to forgiveness, till,
urged by the grace that was working in him, he suddenly em-
braced his nephew, kissed and pardoned him, and gave him his
benediction. His example was instantly followed by his sons,
who, one after the other, sobbing and weeping, embraced their
cousin, while all the congregation, bathed in tears, blessed and
oraised God.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 23

CHAPTER III.

Departure for China — The Pope's farewell Gifts — Scene at Bologna — Awful
Visitation at Brixen — Detention at Cologne — Disguise — Arrival in London
— English Women — Drawing Lots for a Saint.

Shortly after my return to Rome the rector of the Ecclesi-
astical College died, and I was appointed to succeed him. A
few months after I had entered upon miy new office, the Pope
received the joyful intelligence that M. de Tournon, whom he
had sent to China as apostolical commissioner, had been gra-
ciously welcomed by the Emperor ; upon which his Holiness
resolved to send him the cardinal's hat by some missionaries.
He therefore appointed Dr. Funari, who was the parish-priest of
San Giovanni de Fiorentini, in Rome ; Father Fabri Bonjour, an
Augustine friar of Toulouse ; Father Ceru, of the Chierici Mi-
nori of Lucca ; Father Perrone, of the Order of the Mother of
God ; my humble self, then a secular priest from Evoli, in the
diocesis of Salerno ; and a gentleman of the name of Guarmani,
who was to accompany us as a surgeon.

Don Amodei, who was also a secular priest, was not included
in the list, in consequence of his being absent and in ill health ;
but the moment I informed him of this, he sent to Cardinal Sac-
ripante, the president of the Propaganda, a letter written with
more tears than ink, and so eloquently expressed that the Pope —
who, as well as the Cardinal, was greatly moved by it — imme-
diately directed him to join us. Upon his arrival, we were all
admitted to kiss the Pope's foot and receive his paternal benedic-
tion. After having solemnly exhorted us zealously to fulfil our
divine mission, his Holiness gave to each of us a silver medal,
with the indulgence in articulo moi^tis. He granted us also the
faculty of gaining plenary indulgence every month ; the favor of
a privileged altar once a week ; the right of blessing five thou-
sand medals, crucifixes, or rosaries, with the usual indulgences ;
the privilege of confessing to one another during our voyage ; the

24 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

power of giving plenary indulgences in articulo mortis, not at-
tached to a crucifix, which might be lost, but to our own persons ;
and, lastly, the authority of deciding by majority of votes all
questions and doubts that might arise during our journey. The
cardinal's hat, and the instructions of the secretary of state, were
intrusted to Dr. Funari, with the injunction, that in the event of
his being prevented from fulfilling his mission, they should be
confided to the next senior member of the mission.

On the 13th of October we set out for London, in the hope of
obtaining our passage in one of the East India Company's ships.
At Bologna we went to the residence of a personage of great
distinction, and presented to him some letters of introduction
written in the name of his Holiness by the secretary of state :
this individual, after reading the letters, asked, with ill-dissembled
reluctance, what sort of assistance we wanted ; and Dr. Funari
gave him to understand that some alms to defray the expenses
of our mission would be gratefully received. At the mere word
alms he flew into a passion, and, in a manner not at all becoming
his station, loaded us with abuse, and drove us out of the room
as if we were impostors. I firmly remonstrated against this
treatment, asserted our respectability, and assured him that we
had only followed our instructions, as he must have perceived by
the letters ; and that we should immediately report to our supe-
riors the treatment we had received. We had scarcely returned
to our inn before he sent us twenty sequins, (about seven pounds.)
with a message that he was fully satisfied as to our respectabili-
ty, and that we need not write to Rome.

From Bologna we went, through Mantua, to the famous city
of Trent, where I heard for the first time the sound of the Ger-
man language. Advancing farther, across the lofty mountains of
the Tyrol, we came to Egra, a small town in which they use
glass windows which do not open, and live in rooms lined with
boards and warmed with stoves. The next day we arrived at
Bolzano, where they bury their dead outside the church, in the
open air, fixing at the head of the grave a wooden cross, on
which hangs a vessel of holy water. Two days after this we
reached Brixen : here, while celebrating mass in the church of
the Capuchins, Dr. Funari was seized with a fit of apoplexy, and,

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 25

to the great consternation and grief of us all, fell flat to the
ground. In consequence of this awful visitation he was obliged
to return to Italy, leaving the cardinal's hat and the accompany-
ing papers in the care of Father Fabri Bonjour.

On the 15th of November we arrived at Inspruck, a small but
beautiful town, containing, among other curious things, some
bronze tombs, which are very remarkable. We then proceeded
to Metvolt, and thence to Augsburg, which we reached on the
19th, and where for the first time in my life I saw a priestess, or
wife of one of their Protestant ministers. The next morning we
started for Frankfort, where we arrived in safety after seven
days' journey. The houses which we saw on the road are built
without foundations ; the lower part of the walls consisting of
stones and mortar, while the remainder of the building is a com-
pound of mud and straw, held together by beams with small
pieces of wood woven between them. The church steeples are
built in the shape of round pyramids with very sharp taper
points, the lower part being in brick or stone work, the upper in
wood.

From Frankfort we went by water to Cologne ; and here Ave
received letters from the secretary of state, informing us that,
as the ship which was about to leave London for China could
not take us all on board, his Holiness commanded Amodei and
me to go back to Rome. But as we heard at the same time that
this alleged deficiency of accommodation was a pretence, and
that, in reality, our recall had been caused by the calumnious
reports of one of our companions, we determined to vindicate our
conduct, and await at Cologne for further orders. It is impossi-
ble to conceive how miserable I felt on being thus excluded from
the mission which I had joined with such ardent joy. My nights
were perfectly sleepless ; during the day I did nothing but weep,
and was often obliged, w^hile dining with my friends, to quit the
table and retire to my room to give vent to my grief. Fortunate-
ly, Dr. Funari, whom divine providence, in its inscrutable de-
signs, had separated from us so unexpectedly, arrived at Rome
most opportunely, and defended our cause.

Having, in consequence of his representations, received per-
mission to continue our journey, we disguised ourselves as lay-

26 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

men, and on the 23d of December left Cologne for the Hague.
Here we found our companions, who, having been discovered to
be missionaries, were refused passports for England by the Eng-
lish ambassador. By the assistance of the Bishop of Munster,
to whom we were recommended by the Pope, Father Perrone,
Amodei, and I, succeeded in obtaining passports under assumed
names ; and on the 3d of January, 1708, we sailed from Rotter-
dam for England. On the 7th we arrived safely in London ; and
the next morning we hastened to wait upon Signor Cornaro, the
Venetian ambassador, who received us with the greatest kind-
ness. Without losing any time, we went with Father Perrone
and a gentleman of the embassy to solicit the East India Com-
pany for a passage to China in one of their ships ; but, as it was
strictly prohibited to take out any ecclesiastics, the ambassador
sent to inform the Company that we were going to enter the ser-
vice of the emperor of China — Don Amodei as a mathematician,
I as a painter, and Father Perrone as our servant. It was indeed
amusing to see Father Perrone standing before us two, hat in
hand, showing us all the marks of respect which servants are
wont to pay their masters. The directors, however, being wary
men, did not appear satisfied with this account, and said they
could believe that Amodei and I were laymen, but not Father
Perrone : his peculiar carriage and behavior, his eyes cast
down, his hands continually in his sleeves, and other signs, in-
duced them to think that he must be an ecclesiastic. They then
asked the gentleman of the embassy whether Perrone was a
Jesuit ; and on his answering that he was ready to swear to the
contrary, they granted us permission to sail in one of their ships,
which bore the name of Donegal, and was bound for Bengal.

After we had thus obtained our passage, our three companions,
Fabri, Ceru, and Guarmam, who had joined us from Holland, in
like manner presented their petitions ; but, in spite of the inter-
est of the ambassador, they were several times rejected. Mean-
while Guarmani refused to proceed, on the pretence that he was
ill ; and the ambassador having submitted that permission was
required for only two more, leave was at length granted.

While we waited for the day on which the Donegal was ap-
pointed to sail, the news arrived that King James, (the Pretend-

AT THE COURT OF PEKING.

er,) brother to the reigning Queen Anne, had left France, with
fifteen ships of war, for the purpose of recovering the kingdom
of Scotland, from which his father, James the Second, had been
forced to fly on account of his religion, and to seek refuge in
France. Queen Anne immediately gave orders that no English
vessel should go out of port, under a heavy penalty ; and that
all Catholics then in the capital should be put in confinement.
Under these circumstances, the ambassador desired us to lose no
time in going on board our vessel, as we had previously obtained
the passport, as well as the queen's permission, and that of the
Company.

On the 11th of February we were hastily conveyed in a small
boat to the Donegal, which was lying at anchor in the river
Thames, at about twenty miles' distance. The Donegal was
only of 180 tons burden, and the berths were all full, there being
only the number required for the officers of the ship. In conse-
quence of this, I had my bed immediately under the beam of the
rudder, which, being violently moved from side to side by the
wheel, greatly terrified me in my sleep. But the greatest incon-
venience that I sufiered, during the whole voyage, arose from
being always exposed to the view and the insolence of the sailors,
who were continually in this quarter of the vessel, eating, drink-
ing, singing, and playing, or else cleaning their arms, making
cartridges, and pursuing other employments of the same nature.
My bed being laid exactly over the powder-bin, I almost every
day found it thrown into some corner, under the guns, casks, or
cables ; often soiled with beer or grog, and at times even covered
with vermin, some of the crew having lain upon it. I could,
however, have borne this and other miseries and annoyances in-
cident to a ship when in port, as every one should do who has
resolved to undertake the life of a missionary ; but that which
was insuflerable to me was, that close to my bed were the berths
of three officers, who, during the four months we remained in
the river, were frequently visited by their wives : those who
know what liberties English women allow themselves, niay un-
derstand what a poor missionary must endure in being obliged
to remain day and night with such company. One of the
women was so barefaced in her actions, that no sooner was her

28 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

husband out of sight than she behaved in the most infamous
manner.

All these disorderly proceedings, however, continued only
during the four months in which the ship was lying at anchor ;
for as soon as she had set sail, things were brought into such
strict order that, comparatively, the vessel bore the appearance
of a monastery.

Wishing to make choice of some tutelar saint who might be
our protector during the voyage, we assembled together, and
proceeded in the following manner. We agreed that each of us
should write down the name of a saint upon three separate slips
of paper, that these should be put into a box, and the saint
whose name should first be drawn three times should be our
patron. The first slip of paper drawn contained the name of
St. Joseph; the second, the same name; the third, that of St.
Paul ; the fourth, again that of St. Joseph, who was thus de-
clared our tutelar saint. Having thus selected our patron, we
resolved to observe the following order of religious duties during
the voyage. In the morning, silent prayer, religious reading,
and self-examination, in private ; then the recital of the Priest's
Itinerary, the Litany of the Saints, a chapter out of the Mar-
tyrology, and one out of the Scriptures. On the afternoon of
every Thursday and feast-day, some spiritual reading, followed
by our individual observations and reflections, and by the recital
of the Litany of the Virgin. In the evening, after self-examina-
tion, if any one should find that he had transgressed against a
brother, he Avas to ask pardon in the presence of the others. On
Wednesdays and Fridays, a chapter of transgressions was to be
held, each confessing his sins, and praying the others, one by
one, to mention whatever failings they might have perceived in
him. We were also to hold meetings upon moral accidents,
each speaking by turns ; and whenever more than two of us were
together, the Latin language was to be employed.

Lent now drew near, and we held a meeting to determine
whether we should keep it or not. Our doubts upon the subject
arose principally from the circumstance that, as we were still
detained in the river, we had an allowance of fresh m.eat every
day ; and that, besides the inconvenience of cooking for our-

AT THE COURT OV PEKING. 29

selves separately, we could get nothing but salt-fish and a little
soup. Fabri, Perrone, and xVmodei were of opinion that we
should keep it ; Ceru and myself maintained the contrary. We,
however, yielded to the majority ; and accordingly we kept Lent
for about a week ; when, being convinced that the continuation
of such a diet would destroy our health, we unanimously resolved
to desist. And this incident may serve as a warning to others
of our profession, to regulate their excessive zeal ; for certainly
God does not expect us to do any thing which would interrupt
the execution of his direct commands. A religious life, doubt-
less, requires many mortifications, but these must be exercised
with discretion; and it would have been a culpable imprudence
in us if, by using such a regimen, we had rendered ourselves in-
capable of fulfilling our important duties.

We were doomed to experience still further delays and dis-
appointments. On the evening of the 3d of March there arrived
a boat, commissioned by government to press a part of our crew
for the Queen's immediate service ; and other ships, lying at
anchor around us, were treated in the same manner. This was
done for the purpose of manning thirteen vessels which were to
be sent against some ships that were hovering near the mouth
of the Thames, and supposed to be French privateers. Being
thus deprived of our sailors, we feared that our departure would
be delayed until another year ; and this fear was increased by
the news that the French ships conveying the Pretender had
arrived in Scotland, on which account the men-of-war which
were to have convoyed us w^ere ordered against the French fleet ;
and, as no merchantmen could leave port, the wide bosom of the
Thames was soon crowded with vessels of every size. It seemed
ds if another London had arisen from the waves. A wonderful
spectacle, which fully showed the great and destructive power
that the English possess upon the seas.

These vexations were soon followed by an event which alarmed
us all. The bishop of Ireland and his vicar-general, both friends
of ours, were arrested, together with our late companion Guar-
mani, in the middle of the street. Through the interest of the
Ambassador, the surgeon was released, but of the two ecclesias-
tics we heard no more. Under these critical circumstances we

30 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

naturally feared for ourselves also ; and, in spite of all our mis-
eries aboard, we never for a moment quitted the vessel. For-
tunately, v^hile we were thus afflicted, the pilot came on board
with the consoling intelligence that we were immediately to de-
part ; and on the 8th of the same month, which was Easter-day,
we at last set sail; with many other ships.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 31

CHAPTER IV.

Setting sail for Bengal — Loss of Luggage — Flying-fish — The Christening —
Rigid Observance of the Sabbath — Catching a Shark — Climbing to the
main-top — The Cape of Good Hope — Conversions aboard.

Our voyage down the Thames and through the Channel was
extremely tedious. I will not attempt to state how often we
were becalmed or driven back by contrary winds ; or how often
after weighing anchor and setting sail we were suddenly obliged
again to suspend our course, lest the violence of the tide or a
gust of wind should force us against the sand-banks or shoals,
which are very frequent both in the river and the Channel.
Suffice it to say, that although we set sail on the 8th of April,
it was not until the 4th of June that we reached the open sea.
Amodei and I had soon another cause of vexation, in the loss of
our luggage ; but I must say, to the glory of God, that I was
soon reconciled to this privation. Nay, I fancied that I breathed
more freely, as though I had been relieved from an oppressive
burden ; and I felt like a bird which, freed from the constraint
of a cage, can spread its wings and rove where it pleases.
Methought I had just begun to be an apostle, and that, clad in a
ragged cassock, with the breviary under my arm and a crucifix
on my breast, I was about to wander through the vast regions
of China, preaching to those blind pagans the Holy Word of
God.

When we had passed the twenty-seventh degree of latitude,
we began to see the flying-fish. Their wings are formed of car-
tilage like those of the bat, and extend to the base of the tail.
When pursued by other fish they fly in shoals out of the water ;
and those which alight upon ships, as they have no power to take
wing again, are easily seized by the sailors. Usually they do
not raise themselves more than three feet out of the w^ater ; but,
sometimes, when assisted by the action of the wind, or urged by
fear, they fly much higher.

32 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

On the 29th we passed the tropic of Cancer, and with a
favorable wind entered the torrid zone. It is a custom in ships
going to India, that every one who for the first time passes the
two tropics, the Line, and the Cape of Good Hope, must under-
go the ceremony called " the Christening," or pay a fine to the
crew. Those who refuse to pay become the object of much ob-
loquy and many hard words from the sailors, and are tied astride
upon a piece of wood, on which they are drawn to the end of the
main-yard, and suddenly dipped thrice into the sea. If any of
the ship's boats have not passed the Line before, they are fined
three bottles of brandy. Our captain accordingly had to pay
six bottles for two boats. As to ourselves, having been kindly
informed that the crew would be satisfied with whatever we
might give, we contributed two shillings each. With the money
thus obtained, the men bought brandy and sugar to make punch,
of which they are particularly fond. I was told that those who
are accustomed to this beverage find it pleasant and whole-
some.

As we drew near the Line, the heat increased very sensibly,
hut not so much as we had expected ; for it is not true that in
the torrid zone the air and the water are as hot as fire, and that
every thing putrefies. The water turns blackish, and offensive
to the smell ; but it soon purifies itself, first however breeding
little worms, which afterwards become flies, as I was assured
by the surgeon and other persons on board. The captain had
given orders, that whoever should be absent from prayers on
Sunday, either morning or afternoon, should be deprived of his
share of bread and water. There were in the ship some sailors
who were Catholics, and did not attend ; but they were in no
way molested. It once happened that some of the sailors having
stayed away two or three times, were, by command of the cap-
tain, bound fast with cords, with their arms uplifted ; but one of
them to escape punishment said that he was a Catholic, and the
captain believing, or pretending to believe his assertion, exempt-
ed him from punishment. In the afternoon, however, the man
appeared at prayers, and thus proved how easily he could deny
his religion.

The principal officers played almost every day at draughts, .

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 33

but on the Sunday no one attempted it ; and many of those who
could read, might be seen during a great part of the day with
the Bible in their hands. One of the company who was em-
ployed in drawing a geographical map, wishing to continue his
work on a Sunday, received a severe reprimand from the cap-
tain : such is the rigor with which these heretics observe the
Lord's day.

Not far from the Line, a fish was caught, which by the Eng-
lish is called a shark. It is frequently seen in the torrid zone ;
but almost always alone. We took about fifteen of these fish,
the largest of which was nearly nine feet in length, and propor-
tionably large. It was caught with a hook, baited with a great
lump of salt beef, of which they are ravenously fond. As he
was being drawn up out of the water his jaw was torn by the
hook, and he escaped ; but the bait being again throwm in, the
greedy animal, which I could not help likening to a jelapsed
sinner, heedless of danger, and in spite of the agony he must
have felt from the broken jaw, again gorged the beef, and was
caught. When he was pulled on deck, he made a desperate
struggle, and though a large piece of flesh was cut from his
back, he still continued to leap about ; so that in order to dis-
patch him, it was necessary to strike him repeatedly on the head
with a hatchet, and then divide his body into three parts. This
operation required much time and labor ; and those engaged in
it were often in great danger.

The animal had no scales, and was covered with a dark skin
like that of an eel, but as hard and rough as shagreen. When
it lay on its belly, it was impossible to discover its mouth or
eyes, which could only be seen when it was turned on its back.
Its mouth was disproportionately large, and furnished with three
rows of strong and sharp teeth. On opening its head, we found
two large white lumps like curdled milk, which the sailors care-
fully preserved, being, as they told me, an excellent specific for
the purposes of midwifery. Its blood was both cold and black.
When they are of a large size the flesh is tough, and they are
not good as food ; but we ate of the smaller ones, and found
them tender and good. The manner in which this animal swims
is curious, for when it opens its wing-like fins, it appears' broader

3

34 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

tlian it is long. No less strange is the way in which it
prepares to seize the bait, being forced to turn upon its back,
as the upper jaw of its enormous mouth overhangs the under
one.

The second mate told me, that he had found in the belly of
one which he had taken, the entire hide of a cow with its horns.
Another officer, called Jim, assured me that a young man, while .
swimming round the ship, was attacked by one of these hsh,
which bit the middle of his body completely through, and car-
ried away one half. To this the captain added, that he had
found in the belly of one of them the body of a sailor, which
had been swallowed twenty-four hours before, while he was
swimming near the ship. The bones of the man were in pro-
cess of digestion, and could be easily broken ; but the most
extraordinary circumstance was, that a knife, which the man
had in his pocket, had become flexible, and could be bent like a
piece of paper. In the sharks which we caught, nothing was
found but some fish of about three feet in length, partly digested
and partly entire.

These fish take great care of their young, but in quite a dif-
ferent manner from all other known animals. When they per-
ceive them to be in danger, they open their mouths and receive
them into their bellies, from which they cast them forth again
when the danger is past. This the captain and others affirmed
to be a fact which they themselves had witnessed.

On the 27th of July, through the favor of God and the pro-
tection of the glorious St. Anne, we crossed the Line with a
prosperous gale. We unanimously joined in repeating a Te
Deum, thanking the Lord for having granted us so easy a pas-
sage. A few days afterwards, the wind continuing propitious,
we passed the Tropic of Capricorn, and thus entered the south-
ern temperate zone. It is a custom on board English ships, that
whoever for the first time climbs to the main-top, is there bound
fast till he pays a fine to the sailors. It accordingly happened
that the first surgeon, seeing some sailors and supercargoes
climb to that part of the rigging, which they perhaps had done
to ensnare him, not being aware of this custom, immediately
climbed after them. He had, however, hardly arrived at the

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 35

place, when he was suddenly seized by the sailors and secured
tightly with cords, amid shouts of laughter, nor was he released
till he agreed to pay the fine. The same joke was afterwards
practised upon one of the supercargoes, but on his proving satis-
factorily that he had already been fined in a former voyage, he
was let off*.

On the 6th of September we entered the port of Good Hope,
which is very beautiful and of considerable extent. The coun-
try belongs to the Dutch, but it is also inhabited by many French
Protestants who were expelled from their country by Louis XIV.
There were besides many Germans and Flemings, among whom
were several Catholics who lived without any spiritual assist-
ance. Having found them cold and wavering in the faith, I
bade them all return to Europe. At the end of a fortnight we
again set sail for Bengal. A few days afterwards we saw a
whale ; but all that I was able to learn of this huge animal was,
that it could not be of the same species as that which swallowed
the prophet Jonas, for its throat was so small that it would
scarcely have allowed an egg to pass down it. In the Indian
Ocean, the scurvy made dreadful havoc on board our ship, and
though we missionaries had hitherto endeavored to conceal our
real character from the heretical company among which we had
been thrown, yet on this occasion we deemed it our duty to cast
off all disguise, for the eternal salvation of three of the crew,
who were Catholics, but had for several years wallowed in sin,
completely neglecting their religious duties.

On the 1st of January, 1709, one of the sailors, whom the
scurvy had reduced to a state of extreme debilicy, fell into the
sea. The boat was immediately lowered, and every effort made
to save him ; but to no avail. I was exceedmgly grieved at this
accident, for the poor fellow had been disposed to abjure his
heresy, and we had agreed that as soon as we landed I should
confess and receive him into the bosom of the true Church. We
dared not do this on board, lest we might be observed, especially
as, owing to my ignorance of the English language, the confes-
sion must have taken place through an interpreter, and con-
sequently with closed doors, in order to avoid discovery and
punishment. While still sorrowing for this loss, I was informed

36 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

that an English youth, who was the son of a great London
merchant, finding himself brought nearly to his end by the
same fearful disease, was also anxious to abjure his religion
and receive absolution at my hands ; but the Devil, who
reigns among those heretics, kept them constantly about the
bed of the patient until he died, leaving me bitterly disap-
pointed.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 37

CHAPTER \.

The Mouth of the Ganges — Ignorance of a Monk — Recruiting Missionaries —
Advice to Authors — Sun-Worshippers — St. Thomas's Prophecy — The
Transmigration of Souls — A Woman Exorcised.

Ox the 1st of February we at last entered the mouth of the
Ganges, amid general exultation. In ascending the river, my
companions being still laid up with the scurvy, I one day stood
alone in a corner of the vessel reading my breviary, which from
prudential motives was bound in white, and looked exactly like
a common book. While thus employed, I suddenly heard a
voice close by, inquiring in Portuguese whether I was a priest.
I turned round, and on seeing an Indian youth, about fifteen
years of age, who had come to meet us with other merchants
from Calcutta, I reproved him in a severe tone. Perceiving that
I was afraid to discover myself, he told me that he was a Catho-
lic : in proof of which he crossed himself, and then eagerly prof-
fered his services. It was by no accident that this youth found
me out. He was sent to us by Divine Providence, which per-
ceived that, being perfectly friendless in that country, with shat-
tered health and exhausted funds, we could not have reached our
destination without an act of its special assistance. Having
learned from this young man that the Augustines, for whom we
had a letter from the General of the Order, had a house in the
neighborhood, I proceeded thither as soon as we arrived at Cal-
cutta, leaving my companions behind. On reaching their abode,
I was introduced to an old monk, who was deaf, and ignorant in
the extreme ; but a good sort of man withal He took my letter
and affected to read it ; but as he had no knowledge of Latin, he
could make nothing of it. Being desirous to know the name
and surname of the Father-General, he turned to me, giving him-
self an air as though he had understood the whole, and pointing
at the signature, he said, " What villanous writing I pray de-
1^ cipher this signature for me." When he had heard the name

38 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

and surname of the Father- General, he betrayed his ignorance
still more, by asking me whether he was the Father-General, or
the Father- General in Chief; and I, adapting my words to his
ignorance, assured him that it was actually the Father- General
in Chief, whereat he expressed himself greatly pleased. He
afterwards inquired whether I was really sent by St. Peter, and
on being answered in the affirmative, he conceived a great opin-
ion of me, and did all in his power to forward my wishes.

As the reader will no doubt be surprised at the ignorance of
this monk, I will tell him how such things come to pass. The
most serene kings of Portugal, being very anxious to maintain
and extend our holy faith in these regions, decreed that all their
officers and soldiers who, on passing thither, might feel disposed
to take holy orders, should be allowed to follow their inclination
without any impediment. The harvest being abundant and the
reapers scarce, when a Portuguese vessel arrives at Goa, the
missionaries of different religious orders go on board and call out
aloud whether there is any one who will join them. Among
such numbers there is always some one, who having in a moment
of danger vowed to reform, or hoping to live more comfortably, an-
swers the call ; and thus many of those missionaries are very
ignorant, and some of them very vicious, which is still worse ; so
that, far from contributing to the propagation of our holy religion,
they do exactly the reverse, by bringing it into contempt.

A few days afterwards we were invited to dine with Mr. Bar-
neby, an Irish gentleman, who with great generosity had granted
us three places gratis on board a ship which he was freighting
for Manilla. Among various things that he did for our enter-
tainment, he produced Leuilles' work on Bengal, and pointed
out a great number of ludicrous blunders with which that book
abounds. Many years afterwards I enjoyed together with sev-
eral of my fellow-missionaries a similar amusement, in picking
out the absurd statements inserted in a certain " Account of the
Chinese Empire." Authors are thus liable to ridicule or blame,
if, when writing without a due knowledge of the subject of which
they treat, they adopt indiscriminately all they hear. I there-
fore always warn my juniors never to attempt any thing of the
kind before they have lived in a country long enough to under-

AT THE COURT OF PEKirsG. 39

stand it fully, or can at least obtain their information from per-
sons who are at once enlightened and trustworthy : and in the
event of their being called upon to take part in some important
transaction or controversy, I recommend them to make them-
selves masters of the language of the country, and to take every
possible precaution against erroneous impressions.

One morning as I walked beside the Ganges, I observed a
considerable number of men and women bathing promiscuously,
but with edifying behavior ; and among them I saw a man who
held a looking-glass in one of his hands, turning his face towards
the sun, while with the other hand he threw the water upon hie
body, describing signs much like the cross, and moving his lips
as though he had been praying. On inquiry, I was informed
that this man was worshipping the sun, and that the others were
also idolaters, who bathed in the Ganges because they believed
that the waters of that river possessed the miraculous power of
cleansing them from their sins.

It is well known that St. Thomas the Apostle preached the
Christian religion in these parts ; and that he afterwards suffered
martyrdom at Meliapor, on the coast of Coromandel. The true
faith was afterwards polluted and overpowered by the sect of the
Nestorians ; but upon the arrival of the Portuguese, it was re-
stored by the labor of zealous missionaries. The Portuguese
were greatly helped and encouraged in this holy work by an
ancient prophecy, left by St. Thomas, and engraved upon a stone
column near Meliapor, and not far from the sea. This prophecy
is written in the language of the country, and imports that the
" religion which he had planted would flourish again when the
sea, then forty miles distant, should reach that column ; at which
time white men would come into these parts from a distant coun-
try." All this appears to have been fulfilled by the arrival of the
Portuguese in India.

The missionaries reclaimed a great number of the Nestorians,
and converted a still greater number of the pagans ; the Ma-
homedan government only forbidding attempts to convert those of
its own persuasion ; it being its maxim, that no religion could be
better than that of Mahomed, but that Christianity was better
than idolatry.

40 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

In imitation of the Catholics, the English, the Dutch, and the
Danes have sent many of their preachers into these countries ;
but the grace of God was not with them ; and this, together with
their bad conduct, which so ill accorded with what they preach-
ed, prevented them from producing any good effect. Every sect
of idolaters has here its temples, priests, sacrifices, ceremonies,
and idols. Among the numerous errors in which these blind
heathen multitudes live, a principal one is the doctrine of the
transmigration of souls. They are therefore very kind to all sorts
of animals and insects, v/hich they neither kill nor eat, but on the
contrary feed them, and attend on them with great care. To such
a pitch do they carry this belief, that they have hospitals for lice
and fleas, and pay liberally by the hour those who will allow the
insects to feed on their blood. They do this in the persuasion
that after death their souls will pass into the bodies of some ani-
mal more or less loathsome, according to the good or evil actions
of their past life. Above all things, they highly esteem and
venerate sheep and cows, from a foolish belief that they once
sustained the earth upon their horns, and that a cow pacified the
anger of their idol, Mahadeu, when he had resolved to destroy
the universe for the sins of men ; and also because after death a
great river must be passed, which can only be done by holding
fast to the tail of a sheep or cow.

Influenced by this superstition, upon rising in the morning, just
as we cross our foreheads with holy water, so do they soil theirs
with the dung of a cow ; and thus disfigured, they walk out and
transact their daily business. When we are at the point of
death, we feel satisfied if we can procure the assistance of an
ecclesiastic of known piety ; these people, on the contrary, are
happy if in their last moments they can lay hold of the tail of a
cow, believing that they shall thus easily pass over the great
river. If while they are expiring the cow happens to discharge
the contents of her stomach, this circumstance is considered as
an omen of their future felicity, because they suppose that it is
owing to their soul being about to migrate into the body of the
cow. After the death of the poor idolater, the cow is well kept,
and treated with the same attention that would have been paid to
the man himself had he lived. Such being the veneration they

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 41

have for these animals, and particularly for the cow, when any
one is converted to the Christian faith, the missionaries always
test his sincerity by obliging him to eat cow's flesh, after which
his former heathen associates look upon him with horror, and will
neither eat, drink, nor converse with him.

Some of the more strict of this sect form the resolution of be-
coming saints ; and those people, in their blind ignorance of the
true faith, believe that they have attained the highest point of
perfection when they have passed a certain number of years in
the same spot, constantly exposed to the inclemencies of the
weather, and remaining always in the same posture. I myself
saw one of these saints, falsely so called, who had for many
years held his hands in one position, and whose nails had grown
a hideous length and penetrated into his arm, so that he could
not open his hands, and was waited on by others in all the ne-
cessities of nature ; indeed, all these penitents are thus waited
on, and those who can render them any service esteem it fortu-
nate, as securing their own future happiness.

I was informed by Father Giovanni Da Fano, that having
heard of a woman who, aspiring to this imaginary sanctity, was
then standing night and day in the same place, with her hands
raised towards the heavens, he felt a great curiosity to see her.
Being persuaded that she could not thus stand always immovea-
ble without the assistance of the evil one, he went close behind
her, and in a low voice he commanded the malignant spirits to
depart from the woman. Immediately upon this her arms
dropped, and she turned round angrily, exclaiming in her own
language, " Ah, demon ! demon !" It was thus clearly proved
that such arts as these could only be performed through the in-
strumentality of the great enemy of mankind, whose reign in
those regions is supreme.

42 FATHER UIPA'S RESIDENCE

CHAPTER VI,

Departure for Manilla — Miraculous Escape — Preaching in earnest — Cardinal
de Tournon's Imprisonment in Macao — His Death — The Population of
China — Order to Paint for the Emperor.

I MIGHT relate a great deal more respecting Bengal, but as
my sojourn in this country was very short, I think it best to omit
doing so, lest I should state any thing inaccurate. On the 22 d
of February we set out for Manilla, in the ship San Lorenzo,
which, though very small, had fifty passengers on board, twenty-
three of whom were Catholics, and the remainder Mahomedans
and idolaters ; but six of the latter were slaves, and had been
bought with a view to their being instructed and baptized. On
my arrival on board the San Lorenzo, I again put on my cassock,
throwing off the lay dress I had worn ever since my departure
from Cologne, and applied myself in good earnest to reclaim the
Catholics on board, who were mostly relapsed sinners, entirely
heedless of their religious duties. During some stay we made
in Malay, I was requested by the captains of two other ships to
assist their crews in their spiritual exercises, which I did with
great pleasure, and I hope with some success.

I did not go from Malay to Manilla by the San Lorenzo, but
in Our Lady of Guadaloupe, having been solicited by the captain
to give his sailors some religious instructions. In the Strait of
Malay, not far from Singapore, we were very nearly lost ; the
navigation of those seas being extremely dangerous, owing to a
multitude of little islands which, opposing the waves in all di-
rections, form a labyrinth of eddies and whirlpools. One day
while I was at my morning devotions, I suddenly heard a dread-
ful noise under the ship, followed by a great uproar and confusion
above my head ; and almost at the same moment an American
merchant burst into my cabin, and, without uttering one word,
seized me by the arm and led me on deck, and I then perceived
that the vessel had been driven upon a rock, and was near sink-

AT THE COURT OF PEKLNG. 43

iiig. I immediately rushed back to my cabin, and taking the
holy water, and a candle of the holy Father Innocent XL, I first
blessed the sea, then broke the candle into pieces, and threw it
to the waves, well knowing its miraculous powers in similar
cases. Very soon after I had done this we were out of danger ;
and the means which God in his ineffable goodness employed to
save us were, that the boat of another ship, taking one of our
anchors, went and lowered it at a considerable distance, and ena-
bled us to tow the vessel out of its fearful position.

At Manilla I was desired by the Governor to teach the prin-
ciples of our faith to eight Dutch deserters who were confined in
the fort ; and to my great satisfaction, after forty days' exertions,
they were brought to make a public abjuration of their heresy.
Taking advantage of my free access to the fort, on Sundays I
went about carrying the cross and singing hymns till I had col-
lected a pretty numerous congregation, when I proceeded to
teach them the Catechism, and to preach a sermon on some im-
portant point of our holy religion. After the sermoa I again
took the crucifix in my hand, and made a profession of repent-
ance, imparting to each word all the warmth of my soul. Then,
in order to make a deeper impression on my hearers, I untied
my cassock, which for this express purpose I wore open behind,
and I scourged myself till both my shoulders bled. For some
time my companions ridiculed these inflictions ; but when they
perceived that a captain, who had never paid the least attention
to my exhortations, was so touched by them that he resolved to
reform, and live as a Christian, they no longer jested on the
subject. Since my return to Naples I have not continued these
practices — not that I should ever censure them in any one else,
- but merely because, in my old age, I came to understand that
reasoning and prayer are the surest means of persuasion, whilst
violence and exaggeration can produce at best but a blaze which
no sooner appears than it vanishes.

As there was no ship at Manilla bound for China, the King
of Spain having interdicted all intercourse between his subjects
and the Celestial Empire, a small ship was fitted out by sub
scription, entirely for us, under the orders of Don Teodorico
Pedrini, a missionary who had already been some years in these

44 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

regions, and who for this purpose had disguised himself as a
captain. His inexperience in nautical matters nearly cost us our
lives two or three times ; but in spite of all, on the night of the
2d of January, 1710, we cast anchor in one of the numerous
islands close to Macao.

The next morning Don Pedrini went on shore in his assumed
garb of a captain, and in the afternoon he returned on board,
accompanied by two ecclesiastics of the suite of Cardinal de
Tournon. This brilliant ornament of the Sacred College had,
on his first arrival in China, been received by the Emperor with
unequivocal marks of esteem ; but having since refused to con-
form to certain enactments of the Board of Rites concerning the
missionaries, he had been confined at Macao. Soon after dusk
we went to pay him our respects, under the guidance of the two
ecclesiastics just mentioned, eluding the vigilance of the guards
by entering his prison through a private door which opened upon
the sea. We were received by the holy man with extreme afia-
bility and kindness ; and after a long and deeply-interesting con-
A^ersation, we retired from his presence perfectly edified.

Although the Cardinal, and about forty missionaries of dif-
ferent religious orders, were thus kept in confinement during
the first three weeks of our stay at Macao, I and my companions
were left quite free. On the morning of the 23d of January,
however, we were suddenly visited by five mandarins, who, aftei
sending for Father Fabri, began in judicial form to ask us who
we were, whence we came, what was our business, and so forth,
writing down their questions and our answers. After this they
went away, leaving the house guarded by Chinese soldiers, for
whose accommodation a booth was instantly erected on the
premises.

After duly considering the indignities to which our holy reli-
gion was exposed in his own person and in those of the mis-
sionaries, his Eminence resolved to address a remonstrance to the
Viceroy at Canton, and at the same time to transmit with it a
dispatch for the Emperor, announcing his promotion to the rank
of Cardinal, and the arrival of six missionaries, three of whom
were acquainted with mathematics, music, and painting. His
Eminence was induced to take this step by the recollection that,

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 45

when he was at Peking, the Emperor had asked him to write, in
his name, to the Pope for some missionaries skilled in the arts
and sciences ; and he now hoped to recover the favor of the
monarch by sending him Father Fabri, Don Pedrini, and myself,
in the above capacities. When I heard that, by this arrange-
ment, I was doomed to quit my favorite vocation for the purpose
of cultivating an art of which I knew only the rudiments, I could
not refrain from expressing my bitter dissatisfaction ; but reflect-
ing that it was at that moment impossible to benefit the cause of
our religion as a missionary, I soon resigned myself to obedi-
ence.

His Eminence bore all his troubles and privations with a
Christian fortitude which was truly admirable ; but nevertheless,
his bodily frame being unequal to sustain the efforts of his great
mind, after three months' lingering illness, he went to receive the
palm of martyrdom in heaven — departing this life in the forty-
first year of his age, sincerely beloved and lamented by all who
knew him.

Although visions and revelations, as being liable to error and
delusion, do not prove the merit of a Christian so certainly as
the great virtues with which the Cardinal de Tournon was
adorned, yet as the following possesses all the conditions re-
quired by the highest authorities on the subject, I cannot refrain
from inserting it here : —

Bishop Mullener, a man of truly apostolical piety, was en-
gaged in prayer in the province of Soo-chow-en, when he sud-
denly perceived the Cardinal before him, radiant in countenance,
and clad in pontifical garments, who said to him, " I depart for
Paradise," and then disappeared. This was told by the Bishop
to Father Appiani, who suffered for eighteen years in a Chinese
jail, for having obeyed the Cardinal rather than the Board of
Rites ; and Father Appiani repeated it to me, when, as I was
passing through Canton on my return to Europe, I paid him a
visit in his prison.

In consequence of an order from the Emperor, very shortly
after the death of his Eminence, we left Macao for Quang-chow-
foo, which Europeans call Canton, from the name of the province
of Quang-tong, of which it is the capital. The Chinese towns

46 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

are distinguished by three different denominations, according to
their size. The largest, which are fifty-eight in number, are
named Foo ; the next, amounting to two hundred and forty-
seven, are called Chow ; and the smallest, which are as many as
one thousand one hundred and fifty-two, bear the name of Yen.
Quang-chow-foo is therefore a city of the first class. The streets
are generally long and straight ; and the houses, according to the
fashion prevailing all over China, have only one floor, and are
enclosed by walls, without any windows outside, so that they
look like nunneries. The traffic carried on here is so great as
to give the place, all the year round, the appearance of a fair.

As it is almost impossible to speak of the prodigious amount
of the population of Canton, without being suspected of exagger-
ation, I will leave the reader to form his own opinion from the
following incident : — On my return to London in 1724, I was in-
vited to dine with a party of English gentlemen who wished to
hear some account of my long residence in China. Among va-
rious other things, they asked me what the population of Canton
and Peking really was ; and when I talked of the millions stated
by the Chinese, they showed their incredulity by a burst of
laughter. I told them that if they had no faith in the assertions
of the Chinese, they ought at least to believe their countryman
and friend, Mr. Fazacalei, [Fazakerly?] who was one of the
party, and who, having been five or six times in Canton, would,
I had no doubt, corroborate my statements ; but as he joined
them in their expressions of disbelief, my appeal to him only
produced more laughter. Whereupon I proceeded to question
Mr. Fazacalei in this manner : —

" Have you ever seen Canton from the top of the great
tower ?"

" Yes, I have," he answered.

'' How large did you think it ?"

" At least twice as large as London."

" Which of the two cities is the most thickly inhabited ?"

" Canton, by far ; its thoroughfares being at all times ob-
structed with people."

"Is it men or women that chiefly form the crowd ?"

" Oh, no woman is ever seen in the streets of Canton."

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 47

•• Then, gentlemen," said I, ** if London contains eight hun-
dred thousand inhabitants, as you say, surely Canton, being
twice its size, and with a male population sufficient to throng
the streets, must have sixteen hundred thousand ; and if Canton
contains sixteen hundred thousand, Peking, which is far larger,
and more thickly peopled, cannot fail to have at least two mil-
lions." After which they raised no further objections.

It is true that we Europeans are astonished when we are told
of millions of men living within the walls of the same city ; but
those who have seen how all the towns, villages, hamlets, and
roads of China swarm with human beings, are no longer sur-
prised. How the population of the Celestial Empire has in-
creased to this enormous extent it is not my object to inquire ;
but among the many causes which must have contributed to pro-
duce such a state of society, I will merely mention these : — First,
the limited number of bonzes and bonzesses, who are devoted to
the service of their idols, and, like our monks and nuns, profess
celibacy ; second, the prevailing custom that each man should
marry as many wives as he can support, not caring what may
become of the children; third, the disgrace attached to such
persons as do not marry ; fourth, the perfect peace that the
empire has enjoyed for a long time ; fifth, the total absence of
contagious diseases ; sixth, the extraordinary fecundity of the
women ; and, lastly, early marriages, which generally take place
as soon as the parties have attained the age of puberty. As an
illustration of the numerous progenies of the Chinese, I may add
that one day while dining with the steward of the Victory, I
asked him the number of his children. Not knowing it, he be-
gan to reckon them by name ; but when he came to the eighteenth
he was puzzled, and called in the servants to help him to count
the remainder.

Having finished two pictures, which I had begun at Macao,
for the Emperor, I presented them to the Viceroy, and he for-
warded them to his Celestial Majesty, with firing of mortars, as
is customary whenever any thing is sent to this monarch. He
then sent me an old picture representing Confucius on his knees
before the idol Lee-lao-keon, which he desired me to copy for
the Emperor. As I could not undertake such an idolatrous task,

48 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

I immediately went to him ; and he, in consequence of my being
about to enter the service of the sovereign, came to meet me at
the gate. The moment he saw me he asked, " Nan-lee noe,
Pay-lee ?" That is, whether I wished to use the ceremonies of
the south, or those of the north ? The ceremonies of the south
are those employed by the Chinese, and, on account of their
number and style, are more fit for divine worship than for the in-
tercourse of men ; those of the north belong to the Tartars, and
are few and easy, and nearly similar to ours. I therefore an-
swered, " Pay-lee," or the ceremonies of the north. After this
he immediately took me by the hand, and led me to the inner
apartments, where he made me sit down at his left, which among
the Tartars is the place of honor, as the right is with the Chinese.
On my telling him that my religion did not permit mc to copy
the picture, he apologized, saying that he was not acquainted
with the dogmas of our faith, and added that he would send me
another. After a pretty long conversation I took leave, and he
did me the honor of accompanying me back to the gate. He
accordingly sent a picture ; and in order to ascertain the truth
of a report which had been spread, that I knew nothing of
painting, he at the same time ordered me to draw the portrait of
a living Chinese. He also deputed a great number of people to
come and see me work, till at length perceiving that I had been
slandered, he condemned the originator of the calumny to receive
thirty lashes. As soon as the copy and the portrait were finished,
he desired me to paint eight more ; and, as if they could be
blown with a breath like glass bottles, he sent next morning to
inquire how many I had made.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 49

CHAPTER VII.

Departure for Peking — The Candle-Hills — Chinese Porters — Navigation of
the River Nan-kiang-huo — Sacrifices — Fishing-Birds.

In obedience to an order received from the Emperor, the Vice-
roy ordered some vessels to be fitted out for the purpose of send-
ing us to Peking at his own expense. We sailed by the Great
Canal on the 27th of November ; our party consisting of Fathers
Tilisch and Corderò, both mathematicians, Don Pedrini, Father
Fabri, and myself. In a few hours we reached Joosh-yen,
which the Chinese consider as a village, because it has no courts
of justice, and is subject to Canton ; but in every other respect
it is a large and wealthy manufacturing town. Before we had
made much progress in our journey we had occasion to admire
the care shown by the government of this well-regulated empire ;
for at every fourth mile we found a large vessel, with a piece of
artillery at the prow, and a good number of soldiers on board,
expressly intended to protect the canal from robbers.

After a very pleasant voyage of four days, amid fruitful fields
and vast numbers of people always in sight, on either side of
the river, we came to some mountains which have been cut
through for the course of the canal. This part of the passage is
considered dangerous, on account of its being much infested by
robbers. Here we perceived on our left the celebrated hills
called Lah-chew-shian — that is, candle-hills, from their close
resemblance to candles. They are lofty and barren, and rise
abruptly from the surrounding plain. When we arrived near the
city of Hing-hien-chee-foo, some persons, pretending to come
from the governor, ordered us to stop, that they might come on
board to see whether our numbers agreed with the list submitted
to the authorities by the commander of our convoy. The captain,
suspecting that they were robbers, refused to admit them ; and,
as they still continued to approach, several muskets were fired
into the air to intimidate them. Upon this they turned about,

4

50 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

but shortly afterwards they made two more attempts to board us ;
being, however, received with volleys of shot, they at length
went away.

After a voyage of six days upon the great river Kiang, we
arrived at a village called Kiang-Cheou — that is, the mouth of
the Kiang. The river Nan-kiang-huo, upon which we were to
continue our course, is generally about a gun-shot across, and in
winter contains but very little water ; the streams from the
northern mountains, by which it is fed, being then frozen. For
this reason the boats employed upon this river are flat-bottomed ;
nevertheless, they often touch the ground, and in some parts the
sailors are obliged to push the boat along with their shoulders or
with poles ; and in these cases even the women help, though
they may be burdened with an infant at their backs. Owing to
the shallowness of the water we were unable to continue our
course, and therefore stopped at a village called Hoang-hang,
where we remarked a house which was well fortified, and of ex-
traordinary size, containing, as I found upon examination, forty-
eight rooms. I was told by the Chinese that it was used as a
place of refuge by the neighboring population when attacked
by bands of robbers. The next day we arrived at the town of
Nan-young. We wished to sleep in the convent of the Spanish
Augustines, but our conductor objected to this ; stating that he
had received orders not to permit us to lodge in any houses inhab-
ited by Christians. At this place all our luggage was weighed
and divided into lots that could be carried by one or two men ;
for here the river ends, and a mountain is to be passed which di-
vides the province of Canton from Kian-sy. This mountain,
called Mei-ling, has two miles of steep ascent on one side, and
two of descent on the other, and is about thirty miles distant from
another river, on which we were again to embark. Every thing is
carried the whole of this distance by porters, vehicles and ani-
mals of every kind being excluded ; and as these two rivers form
the chief channel of communication between the south and the
north of the empire, the road which connects them is so covered
with people, that, during its whole length of thirty miles, it has
constantly the appearance of a fair.

These porters carry burdens like pack-horses, and also sedans

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 51

or palanquins, to do which they do not use straps, but a kind of
yoke, made of hard wood, which chafes and cuts their flesh when
they do not take the precaution of wearing a collar of felt or
leather. It is really marvellous to see with what untiring swift-
ness these men perform their journeys of thirty miles a-day, at
five miles an hour, stopping to rest only two or three times. It
must be remarked, however, that these palanquins, as well as the
more stately sedans, are very light, being always constructed of
bamboo.

On the fifteenth day of our journey we arrived at the city of
Nan-gan-foo, and were allowed to dine with Father Fernandes,
at the residence of the Reformed Franciscans ; but as we could
not stop there during the night, he returned with us, and passed
the night on board our vessel. While in this city, I was not a
little surprised to see boys and girls of eight or nine years car-
rying burdens far too heavy for their age. We next came to
the town of Kan-cheou-foo, in which both the Jesuits and the
Reformed Franciscans have stations. Here we found a custom-
house, being the first we had seen since our departure from
Canton. Every morning, at about two hours after sunrise, the
ships lying here are searched, and compelled to pay the duties
required. Those which arrive after that time are obliged to
wait till the next day. Having given notice that we were in the
service ot' the Emperor, and on our way to the imperial court,
we were not delayed nor troubled by any search. We had not,
however, continued our voyage for more than an hour when our
sailors went ashore to perform a sacrifice, in which they offered
up different animals and counterfeit paper-money, which last
they burn, believing that in another world it will be changed
into good coin. This was done because we were about to enter
a part of the river rendered very dangerous by a multitude of
rocks, against which the current breaks with great violence.
Ships are here in imminent danger of being lost ; and it requires
great experience and dexterity in the sailors to steer a safe
course, especially at a spot called Shee-pah-tan, or " eighteen
breakers," upon which the waves dash with fearful impetuosity.
It was for protection against this peril that the sailors offered
sacrifices and prayers to their idols.

52 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

On their return on board they bound up some bundles of aro-
matic wood and burnt them as incense in honor of their gods.
I no sooner perceived this than I ran, snatched them away, and
threw them into the water ; setting up a crucifix in their stead.
A murmur immediately arose among the sailors; but it sub-
sided upon their being told by our converted servant that this
was the image of our God, who was omnipotent ; and that the
vessel being thus placed under his protection, no unfortunate ac-
cident need be feared.

Soon after, the river narrowed to only two hundred and sixty
paces in breadth, and we arrived in the midst of those dreaded
rocks, where we beheld with no small apprehension the fury of
the waves that dashed upon them, and the danger in which our
vessel was, owing to the irresistible power of the current. Our
sailors, however, managed iheir oars and rudder so admirably,
that they preserved us. The locks under water are the most
perilous. I saw one of the boats strike upon one of them, and
instantly become a wreck. At length, after passing two whole
days amid these dangers, we were very thankful to find ourselves
safely beyond them. Six of the vessels of our convoy were lost,
and the one in which we were narrowly escaped.

While continuing our course upon this river we witnessed a
mode of fishing much practised in China, and a most interesting
sight it was. The fishermen employ a certain kind of birds
called loo-soo, which are rather larger than a duck, and have a
neck as long as that of a goose. As they are quite black, they
also bear the name of shew-e-laou, which signifies water-crow.
The fisherman takes them in his boat, and when he sets them at
liberty they swim upon the water, and at the sight of a fish they
dive and secure it in their beaks. A ring is put upon their
necks, which will allow them to swallow the smaller fish, but
not the larger. When the fisherman perceives that their throats
are filled with fish, he thrusts into the water a long pole, upon
which these birds have been trained to climb and return into the
boat ; he then squeezes their throats to make them disgorge their
prey, and every time this is done he obtains about two handfuls
of fish. The greater the number of these birds a fisherman pos-
sesses, the richer is he considered to be ; for the expense of

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 53

keeping them is a mere nothing, as the smaller fish which they
catch afford them in general sufficient food. I remarked, also,
that when these loo-soo have dived, they rise to the surface of
the water with their prey in their beak, and remain nearly a
quarter of an hour before they plunge again to swallow their
food. Hence it would appear they are taught by instinct that it
would be dangerous for them to swallow a fish before it is dead.

54 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

CHAPTER VIII.

Dangers of Medical Practice — Missionary Pride — Foundlings — -Mahomedans.

We arrived on Christmas-day at Nan-chang-foo, which is the
capital of the province of Kian-sy, and v^ere soon afterwards
visited by Father Simoy, a Portuguese Jesuit, who informed us
that he was in hourly expectation of the arrival of a lay-brother
from Peking. On the following day the weather was so rough
that we could not cross the river, which is here a mile and a half
broad. We thus returned Father Simoy's visit, and while we
were at dinner we received the intelligence that the brother
above named had been robbed at a place called Lo-hua, about
twelve miles distant. Having some skill in the medical art, he
had been commanded by the Emperor to visit his twentieth son,
who was ill. Either from not understanding the disorder, or
from reluctance to give pain to the monarch, he pronounced that
there was no danger. Not long after, the prince died, and the
lay-brother was kicked, cuffed, and beaten so severely by order
of the Emperor, that he fell seriously ill in consequence, and was
now repairing to Macao, on leave of absence. This must not
surprise my readers, for I can add that, while in Peking, I was
acquainted with some medical men who, having attended one of
the imperial family, and not having succeeded in their treatment
of the case, received a severe flogging, by the Emperor's com-
mand, and, still smarting from the lashes, were sent to prison,
loaded with heavy chains. Fortunately for them, another mem-
ber of the imperial family was taken ill, and they were ordered
to attend the patient during the whole of his illness, without,
however, being freed from their chains. Having succeeded this
time in effecting a cure, they were set free, but on condition
that they must continue to wear round their necks a small chain
fastened with a clasp, as a warning for the future. Taught by
these and many other similar occurrences, the Jesuits, who were
in the Emperor's service as mathematicians, painters, watch-

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 55

makers, surgeons, or in other capacities, would never undertake
to serve him as physicians.

Upon leaving Nan-chang-foo, we no longer travelled by water,
but in litters, our attendants following on horseback ; and thus,
on the 1st of January, 1711, we entered the city of Kiaou-kian-
foo. At the inn where we stopped for the night, with the assist-
ance of an interpreter, I entered into conversation with the host
and his son, upon the principles of the Christian religion, and
they both appeared so convinced of its truth, that they requested
to be baptized. But as I judged that in so short a time it was
impossible that they could fully understand the nature of the sub-
ject, I left them a book, in Chinese, on the Christian faith, and
directed them where to find a missionary who would baptize them.

These two conversions filled me with great joy, as they were
the first I had made. I may here take occasion to observe, that
if our European missionaries in China would conduct themselves
with less ostentation, and accommodate their manners to persons
of all ranks and conditions, the number of converts would be im-
mensely increased ; for the Chinese possess excellent natural
abilities, and are both prudent and docile. But, unfortunately,
our missionaries have adopted the lofty and pompous manner
known in China by the appellation of " Tti-mjen." Their gar-
ments are made of the richest materials ; they go nowhere on
foot, but always in sedans, on horseback, or in boats, and with
numerous attendants following them. With a few honorable
exceptions, all the missionaries live in this manner ; and thus, as
they never mix with the people, they make but few converts.
The diffusion of our holy religion in these parts, has been almost
entirely owing to the catechists who are in their service, to
other Christians, or to the distribution of Christian books in the
Chinese language. Thus, there is scarcely a single missionary
who can boast of having made a convert by his own preaching,
for they merely baptize those v/ho have been already converted
by others ; and, in the absence of missionaries, infants, aged per-
sons, and those that are sick, are baptized by native Christians.

On the 18th I had the happiness of finding, in the open coun-
try through which we passed, a castaway child about two days
old. I instantly ordered two persons who were with me, to as-

56 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

certain whether the infant was alive ; and, upon finding that it
still breathed, I endeavored to procure a little water to baptize
it. But, strange to say, although I had hitherto travelled with
several villages constantly in sight, none was within our reach
at this moment, where we might obtain water, neither was there
a brook or a spring. In consequence of this, I had the child
carefully placed in my litter till we arrived at the inn called
" Pey-suy-kaou," where we were to lodge for the night. Here
I put on my surplice and stole, and taking the oil, which I al-
ways carried with me, I consecrated the water ; after this I bap-
tized the infant ; which, being a girl, I resolved- to name Mary,
in order to offer to the Holy Virgin this my first-begotten in the
Lord. Upon my departure, I left twelve shillings, partly my
own, and partly contributed by the Christians of the place, for
her support, intending to send more from Peking, if she lived :
but this was not necessary ; the child died soon after — and thus
went, without trouble, to be happy with God in heaven.

There is nothing unusual in seeing children thus abandoned ;
it occurs daily throughout this vast empire. When mothers are
poor, and have large families, or observe any defect upon the
body of an infant, or any indication of an illness likely to be-
come troublesome and expensive, they cast away the little crea-
ture without remorse. This cruel custom is also generally prac-
tised by unmarried women who have children, and especially by
the members of a sect called Necoo, who pretend to live in spot-
less chastity. The poor infants are secretly thrown into a river,
or left near the public road, in the hope that some passenger
may take pity on them, and carry them home. This sometimes
happens, but generally the unfortunate beings are devoured by
wild beasts. Not far from the walls of Peking, I myself saw
one infant under the paws of a dog, and another between the
teeth of a hog. By a charitable provision of the Emperor, carts
are sent round the walls of his immense capital every morning,
in order to collect castaway infants, and carry them to a certain
temple, where a number of w^omen are employed to nurse them
at his expense ; but, owing to the want of proper attention, out
of a hundred of these numerous ill-fated children, scarcely ten
survive. Well acquainted with this state of things, the Jesuits

AT THE COURT OF PEKING 57

have appointed a Chinese Christian to baptize all the infants
that are brought to that temple. To do this, however, they are
obliged to obtain permission from the bonzes, which they must
purchase with money. In this manner not less than three
thousand' children are baptized every year.

In other cities in China, where no such receptacle as this
temple exists, the unfortunate little beings are left a prey to wild
beasts ; for it rarely happens that any of them is preserved by
the compassion of a stranger. I was so deeply affected by this
that I resolved to devote the rent of a small house at Naples to
the support of a catechist, charged with the care of baptizing such
infants every morning ; hoping that the example, however hum-
ble, might induce other persons to contribute more effectually for
the same purpose.

The next day was spent at the same place where I had bap-
tized the little foundling ; the river being considered dangerous,
in consequence of numerous masses of ice, w^hich might have
come in contact with the vessel. At length we crossed it safely,
breaking with our oars the ice which had begun to form near the
banks. Before starting we had, however, to wait a long time,
because the ofhcer appointed to conduct us had repaired to a
temple of idols to sacrifice various animals and implore a good
passage. This circumstance I only mention to shame many
Christians, who are less eager to pray to their true God than
these pagans to their false ones.

In these parts we saw for the first time a great many Mahom-
edans ; and I afterwards understood that they are to be found in
every province of the empire. It is said that they entered China
from the west, in former times, when foreigners were permitted
to pass the frontiers ; and that they came from India. They
formed connections with the Chinese, and their descendants have
increased to such an extent that they are now far more numerous
than the Christians. They have their temples, or mosques, in
which they meet to perform the rites of their religion. They
wear the Chinese costume, with the exception of the lower
orders, who are distinguished by a kind of cap of white cloth,
pointed at the top : they also allow their mustachios to grow.
They live with the Chinese in perfect harmony.

58 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

On arriving at Ool-she-poo I inquired of one of the Moors
what he adored. " Pahy-choo,-' [the Lord,] he answered. " What
Lord?" said L " Tah-se-yang-te-choo," [the Lord of Europe,]
he replied. " Do you not worship Tien ?" [Heaven,] I resumed
" Poo-pahy-tien-pahy-choo," [I do not worship Heaven, but the
Lord,] he replied, with some resentment. Father Fabri asked
the same questions of two other Moors, and he received similar
answers.

When we were within one day's journey of our destination, a
messenger brought us an order to stop, because the Emperor
was absent from Peking, and did not wish us to see any of the
Europeans before we were presented to him ; but, the day after,
we were commanded to proceed, and accordingly we reached
the capital on the 5th of January, about noon.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 51

CHAPTER IX.

Introduction to the Emperor — The Ko-tow — Climate and Clothing — Abun-
dance of Game — Chinese Stoves — Description of Peking.

Being safely arrived in Peking, to which city the Emperoi
had returned, we were, by his command, immediately conducted
to the palace, without being permitted to see any of the Euro-
peans. After remaining for some time in an apartment with a num-
ber of mandarins, we were shown into a spacious open hall, where
the chief eunuch came to meet us, and made us sit down upon
cushions, which are used by the Tartars, who do not sit like us,
or like the Chinese, but with their legs crossed. When we had
taken our seats, the eunuch and the mandarins standing, two
large golden bowls, one full of meat, the other of fish, were
brought to us, with the intimation that the whole was sent by the
Wan-Sui, which signifies the life of ten thousand years, which is
one of the titles of his Imperial Majesty, and that it came from
his own table. Such being the case, we were ordered to go on
our knees, which is the universal custom upon receiving any
thing direct from his Majesty. Then, taking the two bowels, we
were obliged to raise them on high in our hands, and perform the
ko-tow, that is, bend the head to the ground in sign of thanks for
the great favor thus conferred upon us. After sitting down again
we declined tasting the meat, saying that, being Friday, our re-
ligion forbade it, and we partook of the other things. We were
then asked whether we had come prepared to serve the Em-
peror, even unto death ; and we replied that such was exactly
our wish.

When the dinner was over we were presented to his Majesty
in his private apartments. He was seated, after the fashion of
the Tartars, on a divan covered with velvet ; and had before
him a small table, upon which were placed some books and wri-
ting materials. Upon his right and left were some European

60 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

missionaries, with some eunuchs, having their feet close together
and their arms hanging down, which, in China, is a sign of
modesty and respect. Following the instructions received from
the mandarins, as soon as we were within sight of the Emperor,
we hastened our steps to the divan on which he was seated ; and
there we stood a few moments, with closed feet and arms hang-
ing down. Then, at a signal given by the master of the cere-
monies lowering his hand, w^e bent our knees ; and, after remain-
ing a short time in this position, at another signal we inclined
slowly our heads till we touched the ground with the forehead ;
and this was repeated a second and a third time. After these
three prostrations we arose to our feet, and then we again re-
peated them in the same manner, till they amounted to nine.
This homage is called tah-lee^ that is, the great or solemn cere-
mony. Subsequently, when we went into the presence of the
Emperor, which was a frequent occurrence, we only knelt once ;
excepting at certain annual solemnities, such as the Emperor's
birth-day, the first day of the year, and some few other occa-
sions, when the nine prostrations were indispensable.

After these ceremonies his Majesty asked which of us had
made any progress in the Chinese language, as he had been in-
formed by the mandarins appointed to attend us that one of the
five had done so. He was answered that I was the one. He
then inquired our names, country, and profession, and whether
we had brought any new mathematical works with us. He also
ordered Signor Pedrini to play some music ; put some questions
to Signor Fabri concerning mathematics ; and said something to
me about painting. To this point the conversation had been kept
up by means of interpreters. The Emperor now commanded me
to answer the next question in Chinese, expressing myself as
well as I could. He addressed me very slowly, employing many
synonymous words, in order that I might understand him ; and
was very patient with me, making me repeat the words, till at
length he made out what I meant. The question was as to the
cause of Cardinal de Tournon's death at Macao. At the termi-
nation of the audience we were obliged to hasten out of the apart-
ment as quickly as possible, which is a mark of respect paid to
the Emperor. Having thus left the presence, I was informed

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 61

by the mandarins, that it was his Majesty's pleasure that I
should go to the palace to paint ; and, accordingly, I entered
upon my duty on the following day.

The city of Peking was once called Se-yun-tien-fu ; but it
received its present appellation when the emperors of China
removed the government from Nanking to the north of the
empire, in order to oppose the incursions of the Tartars. As
Nanking means south royal residence, thus Peking signifies
north royal residence ; the word Nan meaning south, Pe north,
and ki?ig royal residence. It lies in a plain which stretches to
the south for more than ten days' journey without interruption,
while at no great distance towards the north it is bounded by
very numerous mountains. Owing to this extensive plain on
the south, and this multitude of mountains on the north, Peking
is exposed to deadly heat in summer, and severe cold in winter.

The transition from one extreme to the other, however, is
slow and gradual, so that the Chinese of the upper classes go on
changing their clothes all the year round. In summer they wear
a cotton shirt, a waistcoat of light ko-poo, linen, a loose gown
of the same material, called ppow-zoo, and over this a light silk
spencer, called why-ttao. When the heat begins to decrease
they exchange the ko-poo for a sort of crape called shah, and
this again for satin ; and, as the weather gets cool, they wear
the ppow-zoo lined, and the why-ttao wadded, then both these
garm.ents wadded, after which they adopt the furs of ermine,
sable, and fox, in the same gradation. In the depth of winter,
besides having both the ppow-zoo and why-ttao lined with
foxes' skin, they wear an under waistcoat of lambs' skin, and
the loose gown over it wadded ; and when it snows they put on
a long cloak covered over with seal-skin. In spite of all this
they still shiver with cold; and Count Ismailof, the Russian
ambassador, told me that he and all his suite had been obliged to
add garments to those they had been accustomed to wear, as the
cold was far more intense here than at Moscow.

During the period of frost, that is, from October till March,
Northern Tartary sends to the capital an enormous quantity of
game, consisting chiefly of stags, hares, wild boars, pheasants,
and partridges ; while Southern Tartary furnishes a great abun-

62 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

dance of excellent sturgeon and other fish, all of which being
frozen, can easily be kept during the whole winter. At the
close of the old year, and the beginning of the new, huge heaps
of game and fish are exposed for sale in the streets, and it is
surprising to see how cheap they are sold. For seven or eight
silver tchens, which are equivalent to four shillings, one may
buy a stag ; for a trifle more a wild boar ; for five half-pence, a
pheasant; and so on in the same proportion. During the winter
it never rains at Peking, and it snows but seldom and sparingly.
From March to June there are occasional showers ; but in July
and August it rains copiously.

Stoves are in use in Peking, not, however, such as I have
seen in Germany, Holland, and England, standing in the room,
like small ovens : here they are placed without the room, and
the heat is transmitted to the apartment through pipes, which
run completely under the floor. By the European method of
warming houses, our heads may be hot while our feet are cold,
whereas in Peking the feet are always well warmed, and a mod-
erate heat alike pervades every part of the room. Wood is very
scarce, but there are mountains in the neighborhood which ap-
pear entirely composed of coal like that of England ; and this is
the fuel in general use. While I was living in Peking some
Muscovites arrived who had never been there before. They
built themselves stoves of the European kind, supposing that
they were to be preferred ; but soon perceiving their error, they
pulled them down, and adopted those of the Chinese. They
likewise discovered that the expense of heating their own stoves
exceeded that of the Chinese a hundred-fold : for in their own
they were obliged to use a great deal of wood, which at Peking
is exceedingly dear ; whereas the cost of fuel for the Chinese
stove is a mere trifle, coals being very cheap, and the chimneys
not more than a foot square, and two feet deep. In the southern
part of China, the land being universally cultivated, there is but
little wood ; and as the expense of conveying coals would be
very great, dry leaves, grass, weeds, and even the dung of ani-
mals, are used for fuel. The ground is dry and healthy.

The quantity of rice produced is not considerable ; but this,
as well as the other necessaries not found here, are abundantly

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 63

supplied from other parts of the empire ; and for their transport
the present Emperor furnishes, at his own expense, nearly a
thousand vessels of burden.

There is also a want of fruit, the quantity growing not being
sufficient for so great a population; but this deficiency is reme-
died in the same manner, from the country about Peking. The
quinces are larger than ours, and of exquisite flavor ; and the
apples and pears are so wholesome that they are given uncooked
to sick persons. In Peking the price of these fruits is moderate ;
but, being of an excellent quality, they are carefully packed in
paper and sent to Canton, where they are sold at one silver
tchen a-piece, which is equal to five half-pence of our money.
They consist almost entirely of juice, so that when dried in the
sun, as is done in Europe, nothing but the rind remains, which
is quite unfit for eating. There are two or three kinds of plums,
which are tolerably good ; the chesnuts are small, and the other
nuts resemble our own. The cherries are wild and small, and
have little pulp.

The grapes are good, but they are only eaten. Formerly they
were made into wine, as may be seen in manuscript books, where
the w^ord Ppoo-tow-tsien occurs, which signifies grape-wine; but
they now make their wine of a kind of rice, which is bruised and
compressed into solid cakes for the purpose, and easily conveyed
to any distance for sale. When used, these rice-cakes are broken,
and put into vessels with hot water, and fermented. The liquor
thus produced might be mistaken for excellent grape-wine. It
is made sweet or acid at pleasure by the addition of certain herbs
introduced during the fermentation, and a color (yellow, light,
or dark) is given to it as required. ' In consequence of this use
of rice, very .ittle care is taken to cultivate the vine. The Eu-
ropeans, however, employ grape-wine to celebrate mass ; but
from the watery nature of the grape, or from some other cause,
during the heat of summer this wine ferments and turns sour,
on account of which some of the missionaries cause it to be
boiled.

Peking is composed of two distinct cities, one being called the
Tartar city, the other the Chinese. The Tartar city is so named
because it is inhabited by Tartars, and by those who, though not

64 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

Tartars, are enrolled in the Ki-hiu-ti, or eight bands which con-
stitute the Tartar troops. The Chinese city is inhabited by-
Chinese alone. It may be proper to observe that the district
now called the Tartar city was in former times inhabited by the
eunuchs in waiting, who amounted to ten thousand ; but under
the present dynasty it is inhabited, as I have said, by Tartars
and Chinese of the Ki-hiu-ti. The eunuchs, now about six
thousand in number, live entirely within the walls of the palace.
The Tartar city is square, and encircled by a yellow wall. It is
within this yellow wall that the imperial palace is situated, but
it is surrounded again by another wall, more lofty than that of
the city, and of vast extent. The inhabitants within amount to
a great multitude ; for besides the six thousand eunuchs, there is
in the seraglio a vast assembly of women, of whom the Emperor
alone knows the number. There is also within the imperial re-
sidence a great number of Tartars who are in the service of the
Emperor's sons, each of whom has his separate court ; so that
this palace may be very well considered as a third division, and
Peking described as containing three distinct cities.

The Tartar city has nine gates, and each side of it is three
miles in length. The Chinese city, which is also walled, joins
the northern wall, which separates it from the Tartars. It is of
the same size, but of a different form, being longer from east to
west than from north to south ; and it is more densely peopled
with the middling and lower classes than the other city. In its
four sides there are seven gates ; and thus Peking has in all six-
teen gates, and outside every gate there is a large suburb. The
two cities together are twenty-one miles in circuit, according to
a measurement made by the command of the Emperor. If to the
circumference of twenty-one miles be added the suburbs and
environs, which are also very populous, particularly those to-
wards the west, through which nearly the whole commercial
traffic of the Chinese capital passes, some idea may be formed of
the vast size of this city. The palace, standing in the midst of
the Tartar city, as already stated, has a southern aspect, and is
in shape an oblong square, two miles in length, one in breadth,
and six in circumference. The walls are enclosed and protected
by a broad and deep ditch. There are three gates on each side,

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. QS

that in the centre being opened for the Emperor only, that to-
wards the south for the heir-apparent, and the third for general
use. These gates are guarded night and day by soldiers. Within
and above these defences rises another wall, forming, as it were,
an inner palace, in which reside the Emperor, his ladies, the
women in waiting, the eunuchs, and the imperial family. There
is also a spacious garden, into which no one is admitted without
an express permission from the sovereign. Those thus favored,
upon entering, write down their names, and upon leaving it blot
them out. The splendor of the palace is equal to its extent ; and
though constructed according to the singular architecture of the
Chinese, which resembles no other, except, perhaps, in a slight
degree, the Gothic, yet the whole is pleasing, and contains much
that is excellent, and even wonderful.

5

66 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

CHAPTER X.

Oil-painting — Chinese Delicacies — The New Year — Parental Authority-—
Jealousy — Punishment by Proxy — Women's Feet — Visiting-Cards.

According to the command of his Majesty, on the 7th day of
February I went to the palace, and was conducted to the room
of the oil-painters, who were the pupils of a certain Gerardino,
the first who introduced the art of painting in oil into China.
After giving me a polite reception, these gentlemen offered me
brushes, colors, and canvass, that I might proceed to paint in
their presence. For their paintings in oil they do not employ
canvass, but corea paper, with no further preparation than a mere
wash of rock-alum water. This paper is often sold in sheets as
large as a blanket, and is so strong that I was not able to tear it.
Being aware of my want of skill in the art of design, I had never
ventured to paint any subject of my own invention, limiting my
ambition to the production of moderate copies ; but as copies are
not at all esteemed by the Chinese, I found myself in no slight
difficulty. I however took courage on observing that all the
other painters, to the number of seven or eight, painted nothing
but landscapes with Chinese houses, the Emperor caring but
little for pictures of figures, as I was afterwards informed.
Landscape-painting being by no means impossible to any one
who possesses a moderate knowledge of drawing the human
figure, I recommended my efforts to the direction of God, and
began to do what I had never before undertaken. Happily my
success was such that the Emperor was very well satisfied. Thus
1 continued to paint till the month of April, when his Majesty
was pleased to command that I should betake myself to en-
graving.

It is the custom that all who enter the service of the monarch
should make him some present. Not to be wanting in this duty,
we three of the Propaganda presented our offering, which con-
sisted of about thirty articles of various kinds, the greater part

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 67

of which he accepted. The presents consisted of medicines,
liqueurs, confectionary, and similar things.

The Emperor sent annually to the European missionaries in
Peking a good supply of venison, hares, pheasants, fish, and deer-
sinews, as a new year's gift. This was also done for the present
year, with an express command that we three should receive our
due share. Having mentioned deer sinews, I must add that they
are collected, dried, and preserved for a long time in small bun-
dles as an article of food. When they are to be eaten, they are
first softened in water, and then cooked. They form a dish
which occupies the second place of honor at a Chinese table,,
the dish prized beyond all others consisting of swallows' nests,
which are found in the rocks and mountains of certain islands,
near Canton. These nests are not composed of mud, like those
in our country, but of a kind of white paste, which, though taste-
less in itself, on being prepared with broth and condiments, ac-
quires a taste extremely delightful to the Chinese palate. The
flesh of dogs forms the dish held next in estimation by the
Chinese, and these animals are therefore kept and fed for their
tables.

Having mentioned the Chinese new year, which is called
Chin-yue, it may be proper to add, that the Chinese calculate
their year by the moon, and not, as we do, by the sun. They
begin it with the new moon, which falls upon the 15th degree of
Aquarius, answering to the 5th of February. They count twelve
months, one having twenty-nine days, and the other thirty ; but
every five years they correct this lunar year by adding a month,
and then they arrive at the same point as those who calculate by
the sun. Days are counted from one midnight to another, and
are divided into twelve parts, so that one of their hours is equal
to two of ours.

The commencement of the year in China reminded me of the
carnival among us, for it is celebrated in the same manner with
games, feasts, theatrical representations, and other amusements.
A few days before this festive period begins, the tribunals are
closed, and sealed with the imperial seal, and are not reopened
till a few days after its termination. Idols painted upon paste-
board are affixed to the doors of the houses ; and the quantity of

FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

fireworks displayed at this time, in all parts of China, is truly
astonishing. It may indeed be affirmed, without exaggeration,
that on the night in which the old year terminates, and the new-
year begins, there is more gunpowder consumed in China than
throughout all Europe during the whole twelve months. On
the last evening of the old year, children kneel down before their
parents, younger brothers before the elder, and servants before
their masters, performing all the ceremonies which the custom
of the country requires, and which consists of bows and prostra-
tions too tedious for description. These rites are also observed
between husbands and wives, and among the various grades of
the female sex. The same homage which is rendered by children
to their parents, the latter offer before the portraits of their de-
ceased ancestors. All this is done in strict observance of an
ancient custom of the country, namely, the profound reverence
of the young towards the aged ; and it is done with such super-
stitious exactness, that for any one who has not been a witness,
as I have been, it is not easy to believe, or even to comprehend.
One day as I was talking in my own house with a mandarin
who had come to pay me a visit, his son arrived from a distant
part of the empire upon some business relating to the family.
When he came in we were seated, but he immediately went down
upon one knee before his father, and in this position continued
to speak for about a quarter of an hour. I did not move from
my chair till, by the course of conversation, I discovered who
the person was, when I suddenly arose, protesting to the man-
darin that I would stand unless he allowed his son to sit down
also. A lengthened contest ensued, the father saying that he
would quit his seat if I continued to stand ; I myself declaring
that it was impossible for me to sit while his son was kneeling ;
and the son protesting that before his father he must remain on
his knees. At last, however, I overcame every scruple, and the
mandarin signified to his son by a sign that he might be seated.
He instantly obeyed, but he retreated to a corner of the room,
where he timidly seated himself upon the edge of a chest. A year
after this, the son again came to visit me, having now become a
mandarin himself. I offered him the seat of honor which was
due to him, but he refused it, saying that it did not become him

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 69

to take the same seat which, as I might remember, his father
had occupied the year before. Accordingly, when an emperor
dies, his son never sits upon the same throne, but upon that
which had been used by his grandfather.

Not only are children thus submissive to their parents, but, as
before observed, younger brothers to the elder. Being one day
out of Peking in attendance upon the Emperor, I was visited by
a boy of about twelve or thirteen years of age, accompanied by
his brother, who was a child of about five or six years old, very
lively and interesting. I asked the latter several questions, which
he answered with so much intelligence that I gave him a hand-
kerchief; but no sooner was it offered than he withdrew his
hands, and put them behind him in sign of refusal. I asked him
what he meant, when he replied, " Ko-ko," that is, " elder
brother." I then desired his brother to permit him to take it,
and a nod from him was sufficient for the gay and joyous child,
who instantly took the gift and returned thanks, as the common
people in China do to persons of high rank, by kneeling down
before me, and performing the Ko-tow, which is an inclination of
the head down to the ground.

I may add that the Chinese women live entirely shut up by
themselves in a remote apartment of their houses. Among
persons of rank they are seldom allowed to go out, unless it be
during the rejoicings of the new year, and even then they are
shut up in sedans. They are indeed kept so strictly that they
are not permitted to speak even with the father or the brothers
of their husbands, much less with their uncles, or any other man,
however close may be the relationship. Upon the occasion of
the new year, the wife goes with her husband to perform the
above-mentioned ceremonies and homage before her father-in-
law and her own parents. She also performs these duties on the
birthdays of the same relatives ; and except on these days, her
father-in-law is not allowed either to speak to her or to enter her
chamber. And here I will not omit -the description of a prac-
tice which, while it proves the excellent social order of the
Chinese, caused me to smile when I heard of it. If a man, for
careless conduct or any other fault, considers it his duty to cor-
rect his daughter-in-law, as he cannot, according to the custom

I

70 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

of the country, either enter her room or speak to her, and much
less beat her, he summons his son before him, and after re-
proaching him with the fauUs of his wife, he bids him prostrate
himself, and inflicts a severe flogging upon him. The son then
rises upon his knees, and, touching the ground with his forehead,
thanks his father for the castigation ; after which he goes to his
wife, and repeats the correction exactly, giving her the same
number of blows that he received from his father.

From their inordinate jealousy arose the custom of crippling
the feet of the women, in order to render walking a torment, and
induce them to remain at home. I was informed by Chinese
that the first who discovered this stratagem was one of their
ancient emperors, who purposely hinted that nothing was more
beautiful in a woman than to have the smallest feet possible.
This imperial opinion being made public throughout China,
every husband desired that his wife should be in the fashion, and
mothers sought to secure to their daughters an imaginary beauty
which it was found could be procured by art. Accordingly, at
the tender age of three months, female infants have their feet
bound so tightly that the growth of this part of the body is en-
tirely stopped, and they cannot walk without hobbling and limp-
ing ; and if upon any occasion they endeavor to quicken their
pace, they are in danger of falling at every step. Even when
walking at a slow pace, they find it impossible to balance their
bodies upon a support so small and disproportionate, and are con-
sequently obliged to walk like ducks, waddling about from right
to left. In cases of marriage, the parties not being able to see
each other, it is customary to send the exact dimensions of the
lady's foot to her intended, instead of sending him her portrait,
as we do in Europe. In this particular, indeed, their taste is
perverted to such an extraordinary degree, that I knew a
physician who lived with a woman with whom he had no other
intercourse but that of viewing and fondling her feet.

At the beginning of the new year, friends and acquaintances
visit each other, leaving their names written on red cards, which
are called Tia-zoo. It is worthy of remark that, although the
person visited be at home, he may order his servant to say that
he is not, without giving any offence to the visitor — every one

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 71

wishing at this time to enjoy himself at his leisure with his
dep-rest relations and friends.

The mandarins, all the year round, dress plainly, and always
in the same colors, wearing a purple or black spencer, and a
gown, cither drab, buff, or some other quiet color. Red and
yellow they never wear, these two colors being prohibited as
belonging to the imperial family. During the festal season, how-
ever, and on the Emperor's birthday, the mandarins are clothed
in robes richly embroidered in gold, each bearing the peculiar
badge of his rank. The military mandarins are distinguished by
the dragon, and the mandarins of learning and science by the
bird, which they wear embroidered upon their breasts. Thus
splendidly arrayed, they go to the palace to pay their homage to
the Emperor, whom, however, they do not see ; but assembling
in vast numbers in a great open court, they perform their genu-
flexions and prostrations while he remains seated upon his throne
in the great hall.

I witnessed this ceremony several times, and must say that it
was very splendid and imposing. The same sort of homage
was also paid by all the Europeans, but separately, in another
part of the palace, and never in company with the mandarins.

72 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

CHAPTER XL

Sacrifice to Heaven — Fireworks — The Emperor's Palace near Peking —
Landscape Gardening — Chinese Flattery.

One morning, upon my going to the Palace as usual, I received
an order from the Emperor to attend him at Chan-choon-yuen,
a country residence about three miles from Peking, to vv^hich his
Majesty frequently repaired, and spent from five to six months in
the year. In obedience to this command, I immediately set out
for that place with Father Jartou, v^ho was assigned to me as an
interpreter ; and on our arrival we were lodged close to the im-
perial palace, in the house of Ttong-kew-kew, the emperor's
uncle, who was ordered to provide for our maintenance. His
Majesty moreover every day sent me a horse to ride ; but as it
was vicious and untamed, I left it for my attendant, so as not to
expose my life to danger, and made use of another which I kept
at my own expense. In addition to this, I was obliged to find
myself in clothing and other necessaries out of the annual allow-
ance of about forty pounds, which I received from the Propa-
ganda. The maintenance and the horse were granted to those
Europeans who were in immediate attendance on the Emperor;
the others who resided in Peking, although also in his Majesty's
service, were only allowed coals, rice, and other articles, amount-
ing to about twenty pounds a year.

Shortly afterwards we accompanied his Majesty to Peking,
where he remained three days, for the celebration of the solemn
sacrifice to heaven, worshipped by the literary sect, of which the
Emperor is the head. For this purpose two splendid temples are
erected in Peking and Nanking, and in these the Emperor alone
is entitled to sacrifice, in the name of the whole of his people.
If by any chance he is prevented from performing this function,
his place is supplied by magistrates of the highest rank. Any
other person attempting to do the same, commits the crime of
high treason, and is punished accordingly.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 73

In these temples the sacrifices consist of the immolation of
vast numbers of sheep and oxen, accompanied by a variety of
ceremonies. The Chinese prepare for these sacrifices by fast-
ing, bathing, continence, and eating no flesh of animals slain
during the fast, though that of animals killed before may be
eaten.

Upon our return to Chan-choon-yuen, we were all invited by
the Emperor to witness the display of fireworks annually made
to celebrate the new year. In the evening, therefore, we all
assembled in a large open space within the enclosure of the im-
perial gardens. The Emperor was present, together with his
ladies, but concealed from public view. The grand spectacle
commenced with what appeared to be a great fountain of fire
rising out of the ground. While this was burning, a great chest
was raised into the air to the height of nearly one hundred feet,
and from thence it let down a splendid wheel of fire. This was
no sooner out than a great column descended from the chest to
the earth, consisting of an infinite number of little stars, and ac-
companied by four other columns formed of paper lanterns all
illuminated within. This beautiful sight lasted a considerable
time, when another burning fountain appeared, nearly similar to
the last ; then a variety of columns of different shapes and colors,
which also continued some time, keeping the spectators in astate
of enchantment, all the Europeans admitting that they had never
seen any thing so admirable in their own countries. This part
of the spectacle was succeeded by a pyrotechnic exhibition,
which the Chinese call the war, being a discharge of numberless
rockets, which move in opposite directions, and then strike
against some boards, producing a noise exactly similar to that of
arrows shot from two contending armies. AVhile this was going
on, flaming fountains arose out of the earth in various directions,
wheels and girandoles of fire were in motion on all sides, and
the uproar was completed by continued and powerful reports like
volleys of artillery. Fireworks, more or less splendid according
to circumstances, are also exhibited on this occasion at the seats
of persons of rank, for the amusement and diversion of the ladies,
and the lower orders in general are particularly fond of this
amusement.

74 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

The Emperor's country residence, called Chan-choon-yuen,
which signifies " eternal spring," was built by Kang-hy himself
for his recreation. It is situated in a plain, and surrounded by
other mansions, all of which are enclosed within walls, and in-
habited by his sons and the nobility. The entrances to this
palace and its grounds are always guarded by Tartar soldiers,
who allow none to pass but the eunuchs, and those to whom per-
mission has been granted, in which case their names are written
down upon tablets. On arriving at the gate, those who are not
known are asked Ko-poo-pee, signifying, what is your name ?
and if the name they give is inserted upon the tablets, they are
permitted to enter. After going through a kind of open hall,
another gate is reached, where some eunuchs write upon a large
white board the names of those who go in, and efface them with
a damp cloth when they come out. In this manner they know
whether any stranger stops in the palace after a certain hour in
the evening, when no one is permitted to remain but eunuchs.
The same precaution is taken in the imperial palaces at Peking
and Je-hol, in consequence of the excessive jealousy with which
the Emperor's ladies are guarded.

This, as well as the other country residences which I have
seen in China, is in a taste quite different from the European ;
for whereas we seek to exclude nature by art, levelling hills,
drying up lakes, felling trees, bringing paths into a straight line,
constructing fountains at a great expense, and raising flowers in
rows, the Chinese, on the contrary, by means of art endeavor to
imitate nature. Thus, in these gardens there are labyrinths of
artificial hills, intersected with numerous paths and roads, some
straight and others undulating ; some in the plain and the valley,
others carried over bridges and to the summit of the hills by
means of rustic work of stones and shells. The lakes are inter-
spersed with islets upon which small pleasure-houses are con-
structed, and which are reached by means of boats or bridges
To these houses, when fatigued with fishing, the Emperor re-
tires, accompanied by his ladies. The woods contain hares,
deer, and game in great numbers, and a certain animal resem-
bling the deer, which produces musk. Some of the open spaces
are sown with grain and vegetables, and are interspersed with

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 75

plots of fruit trees and flowers. Wherever a convenient situa-
tion offers, lies a house of recreation, or a dwelling for the eu-
nuchs. There is also the seraglio, with a large open space in
front, in which once a month a fair is held for the entertainment
of the ladies ; all the dealers being the eunuchs themselves, who
thus dispose of articles of the most valuable and exquisite de-
scription.

The Emperor was just about to set out on a shooting and
fishing excursion upon a lake in the plains of Peking, and all
the Europeans came from the capital to wish the monarch a
pleasant journey. In this, as indeed in every other similar in-
stance, we delivered our message to the mandarins on our knees,
and they then conveyed it to their master. Upon the Emperor's
return I again went to Je-hol, when his Majesty inquired vv^hether
I had been every day with the painters, what I had done, and
whether I had made any progress in the Chinese language. I
replied that I had been daily at the palace, and stated what I
had painted. With respect to the language, he was informed
that I made myself understood partly by words and partly by
signs, and that when these were not sufficient, I drew what I
meant. Upon hearing this, he commanded that I should no
longer have an interpreter, that I might thus be obliged to ex-
press my wants in Chinese, and so learn the language more
quickly. The Emperor further ordered that Don Pedrini should
come and lodge in the house of Tton-kew-kew, for the purpose
of tuning the cymbals and spinets, which his Majesty had in
great numbers in all his palaces. When it was stated that Pe-
drini did not understand the language, he replied that was of no
consequence, as cymbals were tuned with the hands, and not with
the tongue. However, he afterwards assigned Father Parrenin
as interpreter to Pedrini.

The Emperor supposed himself to be an excellent musician,
and a still better mathematician ; but though he had a taste for
the sciences and other acquirements in general, he knew nothing
of music, and scarcely understood the first elements of mathe-
matics. There was a cymbal or a spinet in almost every apart-
ment, but neither he nor his ladies could play upon them :
sometimes indeed with one of his fingers he touched a note,

76 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

which was enough, according to the extravagant flattery prac-
tised at the court of China, to throw the bystanders into ecstasies
of admiration, as I myself have often witnessed. I must say
that I was not a little surprised to find how Kang-hy, who was
really a man of enlarged understanding, believed all the exag-
gerated praises of his courtiers, and was childishly vain. This
was perhaps to be attributed to the flattery that had been con-
tinually lavished upon him since the eighth year of his age, when
he began to reign.

The Emperor one day saw the portrait of a Tartar, which he
had ordered me to draw, and he said it was a good likeness. He
then commanded Pedrini to play on the cymbals, and also ex-
pressed himself much pleased with the performance. As a sign
of his satisfaction, he afterwards sent us some eatables, a favor
which he subsequently often repeated.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 77

CHAPTER XII.

Survey of China, Tartary, and Corea — Order to engrave — Fall from a Horse
— Tartar Surgeon — Water Cure.

For many years past the Emperor liad dispatched several
Jesuits into the different provinces of China, with the injunction
that they should make a correct survey of them. Wishing that
Tartary should be equally surveyed, he confided the task to Fa-
ther Jartou, assigning him Father Fabri as an assistant.

The expense attending this undertaking was immense, for the
whole of the vast empire of China, Tartary, and nearly thirty
tributary principalities and kingdoms, including Corea, were to
be surveyed ; the longitude being measured by means of long
chains, and the latitude with mathematical instruments. This
operation required the services of numerous individu'als, superin-
tended by many mandarins, and lasted fourteen years. The
kingdom of Corea, however, and that of Thibet, could not be
measured with much exactness ; for the Coreans being extreme-
ly jealous of strangers, would not admit Europeans ; and this
part of the business was consequently executed by a mandarin,
purposely instructed by the Jesuits, and then sent thither by the
Emperor, under pretext of an embassy : even then they watched
every movement of the mandarin so closely, that he could not
take a step without being observed by the guards, who never left
him, and wrote down all he said or did. Thus, being unable to
measure the longitude with a line, he could only calculate the
miles by the hour. This ambassador, with whom I was inti-
mately acquainted, informed me that he had only succeeded in
taking the sun's altitude by making them believe that the instru-
ment he used was a sundial, and that he stopped to look at it in
order to ascertain the time. Although Thibet had been nearly
conquered by the Emperor, it was still goremed by the Lamas :
his Majesty would not, therefore, for political reasons, send

78 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

thither any other persons than two Lamas, but these had been
previously instructed by the Jesuits.

The Emperor had long desired to have some one in his service
v^ho could engrave the geographical map above mentioned. He
accordingly inquired whether Pedrini, Tilisch, and I understood
any thing besides music, mathematics, and painting. They re-
plied in the negative ; and I said that I knew something of optics,
and also the theory, though not the practice, of the art of en-
graving on copper with aquafortis. His Majesty was highly
pleased to hear that, although I had not practised the art of en-
graving, I was ready to attempt it, and he immediately ordered
that I should begin to engrave. In the shortest time possible, I,
wdth a point, traced a landscape upon a plate coated over with
lamp-black, as a preparation for the aquafortis ; and I had
scarcely done this, when the Emperor desired to see it. As
subjects on plates thus prepared present a very handsome ap-
pearance, the Emperor was delighted with it, and commanded
his Chinese painters to drav/ a landscape, in order that I might
afterwards engrave it. As soon as it was done it was shown,
together with the original, to his Majesty, who expressed con-
siderable delight and surprise at finding the copy so perfectly
similar to the original, without this being impaired ; for this was
the first time that he had seen an engraving on copper, the
Chinese making theirs by fixing the drawing on a block of wood,
and cutting them both at once with a chisel.

To avoid the heat of summer, which is always excessive in
Peking, the Emperor Kang-hy had been accustomed to make
excursions, by land and water, to the south of China. But as
this diversion caused an expense which was extremely burden-
some to his subjects, he had built himself a country residence at
Je-hol, in Tartary, where he now usually resided from the be-
ginning of May till the end of September, with an escort of
about thirty thousand men, besides a great multitude of people
who resorted thither for the love of gain or pleasure. I was
commanded to follow him thither, together with Father Tilisch,
in the capacity of a mathematician ; Father Rod, in that of a
surgeon ; Father Parrenin, and Don Pedrini, as interpreters.
We all set out together on horseback, but, before we were out

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 79

of the city, my horse slipped, and I was instantly thrown, re-
ceiving frightful wounds in my head and other parts of my body.
As my companions did not dare to stop, they recommended me
to the care of two heathens, and left me fainting in the street,
where I remained in this state for a considerable time.

When I recovered my senses, I found myself in a house, but
every thing appeared dark and indistinct, and I felt as if I had
fallen from my horse two months before. The Emperor sent me
a Tartar surgeon, for he and his court were fully persuaded that
for falls Tartar surgeons were better than Europeans. And, to
confess the truth, although the mode of treatment was of a bar-
barous description, and some of the remedies appeared useless,
I was cured in a very short time. This surgeon made me sit up
in my bed, placing near me a large basin filled with water, in
which he put a thick piece of ice, to reduce it to a freezing-
point. Then stripping me to the waist, he made me stretch my
neck over the basin, and, with a cup, he continued for a good
while to pour the water on my neck. The pain caused by this
operation upon those nerves which take their rise from the pia-
mater was so great and insufferable, that it seemed to me im-
equalled. The surgeon said that this would stanch the blood
and restore me to my senses, which was actually the case ; for
in a short time my sight became clear, and my mind resumed its
powers.

He next bound my head with a band, drawn tight by two men,
who held the ends, while he struck the intermediate part vigor-
ously with a piece of wood, which shook my head violently, and
gave me dreadful pain. This, if I remember rightly, he said
was to set the brain, which he supposed had been displaced. It
is true, however, that after this second operation my head felt
more free.

A third operation was now performed, during which he made
me, still stripped to the waist, walk in the open air, supported
by two persons ; and, while thus walking, he unexpectedly
threw a bowl of freezing cold water over my breast. As this
caused me to draw my breath with great vehemence, and as my
chest had been injured by the fall, it may be easily imagined
what were my sufferings under this infliction. The surgeon in-

80 FATHEH RIPA'S RESIDENCE

formed me that, if any rib had been dislocated, this sudden and
hard breathing would restore it to its natural position.

The next proceeding was not less painful and extravagant.
The operator made me sit upon the ground ; then, assisted by
two men, he held a cloth upon my mouth and nose till I was
nearly suffocated. " This," said the Chinese Esculapius, " by
causing a violent heaving of the chest, will force back any rib
that may have been bent inwards."

The wound in the head not being deep, he healed it by stuf-
fing it with burnt cotton. He then ordered that I should con-
tinue to walk much, supported by two persons ; that I should not
sit long, nor be allowed to sleep before ten o'clock at night, at
which time, and not before, I should take a little hifan, that is,
thin rice soup. This continued walking caused me to faint sev-
eral times ; but this had been foreseen by the surgeon, who had
warned me not to be alarmed. He assured me that these walks
in the open air, while fasting, would prevent the blood from set-
tling on the chest, where it might corrupt. These remedies
were barbarous and excruciating ; but I am bound in truth to
confess, that in seven days I was so completely restored as to be
able to resume my journey into Tartary.

On the very morning that I fell from my horse the Emperor
three times sent a commission, consisting of two mandarins,
three secretaries, and two physicians, to examine me upon the
subject of the accident. I constantly affirmed in my answers
that the horse was excellent, and that I had fallen from my ig-
norance of horsemanship. I thus saved from punishment both
the officer who had brought me the horse and the mandarins
who had been charged with the arrangements of our journey.
These poor men had lived in the greatest dread, fearing that
some complaint might escape me, which, however slight, would
cause their destruction. For this reason they now conceived a
great affection for me, and upon different occasions they rendered
me important services.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 31

CHAPTER XIII.

The Great Wall — Mountain near Je-hol — Attempts to engrave — Description
of Je-hol — The Emperor's Country Life.

As his Majesty was now aware that I could not ride, he or-
dered that as soon as I was in a fit state to set out I should travel
in a carriage. In this journey I passed the famous wall which
divides China from Tartary, and well deserves to be considered
as a wonder of the world. The Chinese say that it is more than
ten thousand lee in length, which is equal to more than three
thousand miles ; but I have been assured that it does not exceed
fifteen hundred. Its course is not always even, sometimes de-
scending into deep valleys, at others rising to the top of lofty
mouniams. Its height constantly varies, being much greater in
certain situations, especially in the valleys, while in some places
it does not rise higher than fifteen feet. In some parts this wall
is built entirely of stone, in others of brick, in others of stone
and brick mixed ; and such is its breadth, that carriages can
drive along the top with ease. I was informed that the interior
of the wall was filled up with earth, and that it was built of that
breadth not only for convenience in time of war, but also to facil-
itate the transport of materials when it was building, as it would
otherwise have been impossible to carry it over steep and preci-
pitous spots. It would in fact have been beneath the advanced
civilization of the Chinese to build a national barrier, passing
over rocks, ravines, and mountains, without providing a passage
for horse and foot soldiers.

Upon examining this work I was greatly astonished to find
that although it was built more than eighteen hundred years ago,
it is still so perfect that it does not appear to have been finished
above a century. It is decayed only in a few places, and these
dilapidations the Tartars, who are now in possession of China,
do not trouble themselves to repair. They only preserve and.

6

82 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

defend the gates through which there is much traffic. Under the
native Chinese government one million of soldiers were employed
to guard and garrison this marvellous works.

Before arriving at the wall we had entered a country diversi-
fied with hills and plains ; but on the other side of the gate
nothing was to be seen but mountains, and the road lay through
valleys and defiles, which appeared walled between the heights
on either side. Until we had reached Je-hol I did not observe a
single Tartar habitation, but only some inns erected by the Chi-
nese for the accommodation of travellers since the emperor had
removed his residence thither. Besides these, at intervals of
about fifteen miles, there are palaces surrounded by walls, which
are used by the emperor and his concubines on his way to Je-
hol and back. Among these mountains the mornings were so
cold that it was necessary to wear furs ; but when the sun had
risen the heat became insupportable. Near Je-hol I one day had
the pleasure of ascending a mountain higher than the rest, and
was much surprised at the extraordinary appearance of the sum-
mits around, which looked like the waves of a boundless sea — a
spectacle, perhaps, without a parallel in the whole world. From
this situation I also beheld one of those sports of nature at once
so unaccountable and so stupendous, which I have described in
the journey from Canton to Peking ; but this was much more
lofty, and of a different form, resembling the fabulous club of
Hercules.

After twenty days' journey we arrived safely at Je-hol. On
the following day I went to the palace to return thanks for the
surgical assistance sent me by the Emperor, which I did by
means of the Ko-tow, this ceremony being unavoidable whenever
the Emperor has conferred any favor, however trifling. Upon
this occasion I was given to understand that I must finish the
copper-plate upon which I was employed, and immediately after
take off prints from it. Of the art of engraving with aquafortis I
knew no more than what I had learned in a single lesson given
me by an artist at Rome, in compliance with the wishes of a
friend who, as if by providential foresight, had earnestly recom-
mended me to learn it.

I now inquired for the ingredients necessary to make aquafortis,

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 83

that is, strong white wine vinegar, sal ammoniac, and verdigris.
The sal ammoniac could be procured in abundance, but the ver-
digris was greatly inferior to ours, and the vinegar, not being
made with grape wine, but with sugar and other articles, was not
fit for my purpose. Thus, owing to the inefficiency of the aqua-
fortis, the lines were very shallow, which, added to the badness
of the ink, caused the prints to be of the worst possible descrip-
tion. It cost me no small amount of labor before I could bring
this kind of engraving to any degree of perfection.

To make the ink tartar was necessary, but of this a few
pounds only could be found in the imperial drug-house, and I
was obliged to employ other materials. After many experi-
ments, however, I produced a tolerable specimen.

In the construction of a press I was again encountered by in-
numerable difficulties, having never even seen one but once,
when I paid no particular attention to it. I now ordered one to
be made, having the lower cylinder fixed and the upper one
moveable. In consequence of this, when it was worked the efiect
produced was of the worst description, and drew forth the laugh-
ter and jests of the eunuchs, mandarins, and many other persons
belonging to the court, so that my trouble and confusion were
complete. Recollecting, however, the high purpose for which I
had come to China, I contrived to bear all this with patience and
good humor. His Majesty having seen the prints which I had
engraved, was kind enough to excuse them, though they were
very pale. He even declared they were excellent ; and this he
always continued to do, nerer finding fault with what I pro-
duced.

Besides the annoyances already mentioned, I had to endure
other interruptions, proceeding from envious persons, among
whom were some mandarins, who, being displeased at my having
gained the Emperor's favor, endeavored in various ways to
bring me into disgrace. Among many other malevolent actions,
having seen that my work was not at first very successful, they
employed a letter-cutter to engrave a plate with the graver : he
transferred the outlines tolerably by following closely the design
of the painter ; but as he did not understand the harmony of
light and shadc; when the prints were drawn off his plate they

84 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

presented a wretched appearance. The mandarin Chow, who
had the chief care of the Europeans, was so disappointed and
incensed, that he tore the prints to pieces, and ordered the poor
man to be bastinadoed.

Perceiving that I had made some progress in the art of en-
graving, his Majesty resolved to have prints of thirty-six dif-
ferent views taken from the residence of Je-hol buiU by himself.
Accordingly I went there with the Chinese painters whom he
had ordered to make the drawings, and I thus had an opportunity
to see the whole of the grounds, a distinguished favor which had
never yet been conferred on any other European.

The residence of Je-hol is in Tartary, about one hundred and
fifty miles distant from Peking. It is situated in a plain sur-
rounded with mountains, whence flows a torrent, which, though
usually dry, swells fearfully in time of rain or thaw. A few
years before, when its destructive character was not yet known,
and before the present houses were built, it carried away by a
sudden overflow in the night an encampment of many thousand
persons. A hill rises gently from the plain, its side studded
with buildings destined for the Emperor's followers, and a
copious spring of water, after winding round a variety of de-
lightful slopes, forms a noble lake containing a remarkable
quantity of fish.

To an admirable disposition of the ground, nature has here
added the charms of a luxmiant vegetation. Throughout the
vast extent of those regions of Tartary a tree is rarely seen. At
Je-hol, however, the plain, the slopes, and the hill are thickly
covered with foliage; and the filberts, corianders, pears, and
apples, though growing wild, have so delicious a flavor that
they are served on the Emperor's table. The plain, slopes, and
hill are so extensive that it took me an hour to make the tour of
the enclosure on horseback.

Various habitations, more or less large according to their use,
are erected here and there in diflferent spots about the grounds :
one for his Majesty ; behind this, one for his concubines, who
lodge three or four in each room ; another for his mother, others
for his queens, and others for the eunuchs. There is also a Miao,
or temple of idols, which is constantly attended by a great number

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 85

of Taou-she, or priests of the devil, who are all eunuchs, dressed
in yellow. It is to this Miao that the Emperor goes with his
ladies to make sacrifices and adorations during his stay in Je-hol.
There are, besides, many cottages and summer-houses : these
summer-houses are built in different forms, but all in good taste,
and very clean. They are provided with silk curtains on all
sides, so as to prevent observation from without ; and have seats
all around, with a table or bed in the centre. These cottages
and summer-houses are for the service of the Emperor, who re-
tires thither with his queens and concubines ; for at Je-hol he
rarely sees any one except his ladies and eunuchs. With his
ladies on foot around him, he is carried about the grounds by
eunuchs, in an open chair ; with them he sails in little boats,
fishing in the canals and the lakes ; with them he eats — always,
however, alone, upon a raised platform, while they take their
food seated on the floor, each at her little table. Even when
studying he is surrounded by his favorite queens, as I myself
have often seen.

86 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

CHAPTER XIY.

The Emperor's Retinue — The Little Hunt — Stag-hunting — Tiger-hunting-
Wrestling and Archery — Silence in the Camp.

In the month of September the Emperor usually indulged in
stag-hunting; and this year, 1711, in order that we Europeans
might witness the sport, he took us all five with him. We set
out on the 11th for Kara-kotton, an ancient city which had been
destroyed by the Chinese when they expelled the Western Tar-
tars. Before building the residence of Je-hol, above described,
his Majesty used to spend the summer months in this place,
where, besides his palace, several edifices are still extant, partly
erected by him for his suite, and partly by the Chinese, who re-
pair thither for trade. Although it had been abandoned by the
Emperor, it still contained a considerable population.

Very early on the 12th we resumed our journey, and, after
travelling about twenty miles, we came to a place called Lan-
chee-siao-ing, where we passed the night under tents. Beyond
this spot there are no other habitations but the palaces intended
for the reception of the Emperor and his ladies. The rest of the
company lodge in tents, which, from one of the neighboring
heights, form a noble sight, looking like the encampment of an
army. Out of thirty thousand soldiers, which the Emperor had
with him at Je-hol, only twelve thousand accompanied him to
the hunt ; but his retinue was so numerous that our party must
have amounted to more than thirty thousand persons. On the
slope of a hill a Miao had been erected long before the arrival
of the Emperor : and the hill was surrounded with soldiers, who
allowed no one to pass, because his Majesty was expected to
alight with the ladies of his suite, as in fact he did before pro-
ceeding to his palace. The ladies he brought with him were in
six carriages, three of which were yellow and three black, the
former for the queens, the latter for the concubines. Those of
the crown-princes were in three carriages, one yellow and two

AT THE COURT OF I'EKIAG. 87

black. Each carriage contained four ladies, seated in the Tiirtar
fashion with their legs crossed. Wherever these women passed,
everybody was obliged to pay them reverence, by quickly fleeing
away and hiding themselves so that they might neither see them
nor be seen : those who were not very active in the performance
of this duty never failed to receive a good beating from the man-
darins or eunuchs of the escort. We Europeans, however, were
treated vv^ith less severity. It often happened that we met them
in places where it was inconvenient to avoid them, and that,
while the Chinese were driven away without mercy, we were
not at all molested.

On the 13th we left Kara-kotton before daybreak, and pro-
ceeded to Poro-kotton, another ancient city, which had likewise
been demolished by the Chinese. The following day was spent
by the Emperor in fishing in a river flowing by. We then re-
sumed our journey, and arrived at a place called Epakia, where
his Majesty slept in a palace for the last time, as henceforth tents
were the only accommodation on the road. About halfway stood
three large circular tents, of white canvass, within a yellow en-
closure of the same material. One of them was for the Emperor,
another for the crown-prince, and the third for the ladies. There
were, besides, some blue tents, of inferior quality, for the eunuchs.
Here his majesty stopped two hours, in the middle of the day.
for dinner and repose : and at the place where we arrived in the
evening we found other tents of the same description, and dis-
posed in the same manner.

After another day's rest and one of travelling, on the after-
noon of the 17th we began what they call the little hunt, which
is for deer, hares, and pheasants. Hitherto, we Europeans had
preceded the company about two hours' march — the Emperor
intending that we should thus avoid the dust and confusion
always produced by a whole army on horseback ; now, however,
to enable us to enjoy the sport, he ordered that we should march
immediately after him, and keep within sight of him. We had
come to a small plain covered with luxuriant verdure, where a
number of soldiers formed a semicircle around the Emperor, who
was a few steps in advance, followed by his family and suite, all
armed with bows and arrows, and flanked by falconers.

FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

As the circle advanced at a slow pace, innumerable pheasants,
hares, and deer were seen to fly or run out of the grass and the
bushes in all directions. Eagles, trained for the purpose, were
let loose upon the deer ; against the hares and pheasants arrows
and hawks were employed. This continued for about an hour,
when we came to the end of the plain, and were obliged to pro-
ceed in search of another spot across those valleys and hills of
Tartary. Then, when we came to the other places adapted to
the sport, this was repeated several times, and always in the same
manner.

Having crossed several hills, we now arrived in an open
place, skirted by verdant heights ; and in the early morning the
stag-hunt was begun, which being conducted in a manner quite
different from ours, I shall here describe minutely. On this oc-
casion the army consisted of twelve thousand soldiers, divided
into two wings, one of which passed on towards the east, then
turned northward, whilst the other proceeded to the west, then
likewise turned in a northern direction. As they marched on,
each man halted, so as to remain about a bow-shot distant from
the next, till at length they surrounded the hills. Then, at a
given word, in an instant they all advanced slowly towards the
centre of the circle, driving the stags before them, and went on
in this manner till one was not more than half a bow-shot distant
from the other. Every alternate soldier now halted, and the
next continuing to advance, two circles were formed, one being
at a considerable distance from the other. After this they all
moved in the same direction till the soldiers of the inner circle
being so near as to shake hands, they divided again and formed
a third circle ; when, preserving their relative distances, they
advanced again till the soldiers and horses of the innermost circle
touched each other.

The inner or third circle was less than a bow-shot distant
from the second, but the distance from this to the outer circle
was much greater. The three circles having thus taken up their
ultimate position, the Emperor entered into the centre, followed
by the male part of his family and relatives, and surrounded by
the best and most expert hunters, armed for his defence. The
ladies were conducted into pavilions erected upon a neighboring

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 89

hill, where they could view the sport without being seen. A
similar situation was allotted to us, but we remained on horse-
back.

The signal being given, the Emperor himself opened the chase
by killing with his arrows a good number of the multitude of
stags thus surrounded ; and when weary, he gave permission to
his sons and relations to imitate him. The stags, perceiving
themselves hemmed in and slaughtered on all sides, attempted
to escape by breaking through the circle ; but the soldiers, being
accustomed to this, instantly drove them back with shouts and
the noise they produced by striking the leather housings of the
horses with their stirrups. Many of the stags, however, urged
by pain or fear, leaped over the horses, or forced a passage with
their horns. The soldiers of the second circle then endeavored
to drive them back to the centre ; but if they did not succeed,
those of the third were permitted to kill the fugitives. Nor were
the animals that chanced to escape from the soldiers entirely
safe, for they could then be destroyed by any one who might
happen to meet them.

Tigers generally make their abode in the most rugged and in-
accessible mountains of Tartary ; but they are sometimes found
among these hills watching for deer and other prey. When it
is discovered that there is more than one, the circles are imme-
diately dissolved, the soldiers retire to the encampment with
great precaution, and no further attempt at hunting is made
there that year. If, however, no more than one of these fero-
cious animals has been observed, the soldiers dismount, and di-
viding into bands of five men each, they take up various posi-
tions, with lance in hand, instead of bows and arrows : being thus
prepared, they let loose a number of dogs, not to hunt the beast,
but to intimidate him by their barking, and drive him from his
lair, which is very soon effected. When the tiger appears, the
soldiers remain motionless, knowing it to be the nature of this
beast to attack. Fixing his eyes, therefore, upon one of these
groups of soldiers, he makes towards them at a quick pace, and
when at a certain distance he instantly springs upon them. The
five men, who, with their eyes and lances fixed, awaited his ap-
proach, receive him on the points of their weapons, which they

90 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

force into his breast, and having with great dexterity thrown him
down, they quickly dispatch him. I never had an opportunity
of witnessing such an occurrence, but I was assured that no
tiger, thus discovered alone, had ever escaped ; and that no sol-
dier had ever been hurt by one. When, on the contrary, these
groups have been attacked by more than one tiger, some have suf-
fered ; and, consequently, whenever more than one is discovered,
the sport is immediately abandoned, and the company proceed
to another quarter. There are great numbers of these beasts in
that country, and the Tartars often hunt them in the manner de-
scribed ; and afterwards sell the skins in Peking, at about a tahel
each, a Chinese coin equivalent to a crown.

As I have here spoken of stag and tiger hunting, I cannot
leave the subject vvdthout noticing an extraordinary circumstance.
The stag, being endowed with a sense of smell as exquisite as
that of the dog, perceives the tiger by its strong scent, and in-
stantly flies behind some hill, which, intercepting the current of
wind, prevents his own scent from reaching the ravenous beast.
Father Parrenin told me that, a few years before, as the hunting
circle advanced, they had come to a slope sheltered from the
Avind, which was covered by such an immense multitude of stags
as to appear of the color of their skins. These stags were so ter-
rified by the dreaded beast, that upon the approach of the men
and horses they did not attempt to escape, but allowed them-
selves to be killed like a flock of sheep, rather than save them-
selves by flight. So great was the slaughter, that the Emperor,
supposing that all the stags of the surrounding country had as-
sembled upon that spot, commanded the circle to be opened, lest
the race might be entirely destroyed.

The Emperor took part in another species of sport, unknown
in Europe and less fatiguing. He set out by night with all the
great company above mentioned, and when within two miles of
the spot selected for the sport he left the army, and ascended to
the top of a hill with six or seven hunters, clothed in stag-skins
from head to foot. Here one of the hunters put on a kind of
mask resembling a stag's head with horns, and concealed him-
self among the bushes in such a manner that at first sight he
might be taken for a stag, while the Emperor and the others

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 91

crouched down close by — all being armed with good guns, to the
ends of which were fixed small pieces of stag's horn. The stags
are followed by several dogs, which they will not allow any other
stag to approach. Early in the morning they instinctively raise
a cry of challenge ; the other stags arrive, and a fight ensues,
which continues till one is slain, when the victor takes possession
of his rival's herd of does. One of the hunters now blows an
instrument which, both in shape and sound, v^ery much resembles
those with which our herdsmen call the swine, and which closely
imitates the bellowing of the stag. At this sound the stags hasten
to the hill, and seeking their supposed rival, they come within
gun-shot, and meet with their death. The Emperor had the first
shot, and if he missed, the stag was quickly killed by the hunts-
men. It happened one day that at the sound of the horn not
one stag only but two appeared at the same time within shot,
and began to fight. One of them was soon hit by the Emperor,
and the other, instead of running away, strove to finish his
dying rival, thus giving his Majesty the opportunity of killing
him also with the second shot. The sport lasts only about two
hours, as later in the day it would have no effect ; and every
morning from five to ten stags were thus killed.

This was the sport in which the Emperor Kang-hy indulged
every year, in the months of September and October, changing
the place nearly every time, in order to find a greater quantity
of game. If it happened during this period that his Majesty
was deprived of his diversion, either by his superstitious pros-
trations to the new moon, or any other impediment, he was not
idle on that account. He then came out of his pavilions, and,
sitting upon a carpet on some elevated situation, he either
watched the dexterous efforts of his Tartar wrestlers, or com-
manded some of liis grand- children, and other great military
mandarins, to practise archery before him ; and sometimes he
would even enter the lists against his third son, who managed
the bow nearly as well as himself. Although our party amount-
ed to about thirty thousand persons — a number which, under all
circumstances, must produce great noise and confusion — yet
when the Emperor was encamped, and the sun had set, the
silence enforced was perfectly astonishing. One day Pedrini

92 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

and myself having returned to the encampment after sunset, my
friend ordered a servant to call our conductor, to whom he
wanted to speak. The poor fellow resisted for some time, but
being pressed by his master he at last obeyed ; and scarcely had
he opened his mouth, before he was seized by the soldiers of the
guard, and very severely bastinadoed.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 93

CHAPTER XV.

Chinese Letters — Imperial Condescension — The Christians in Danger — Con-
versions— Strict Discipline — The Crown Prince deposed — The Emperor's
Sixtieth Birth-day.

During our stay at Chan-clioon-yueii I presented to his Ma-
jesty some prints of a Chinese landscape, drawn by one of the
imperial painters, which I had executed with the graver. The
Emperor was highly pleased with them, and ordered me to en-
grave some letters of the Chinese alphabet in the same manner.
Considering that there is scarcely any Chinese writing which
does not contain some superstitious expression which we Chris-
tians can neither engrave nor print, I did two letters of the Chi-
nese alphabet and two of ours, the latter with every possible
care, the others as badly as I could ; and when I submitted them
to his Majesty, I observed that the European letters were well
executed because I could write them, but that the Chinese were
bad because, being unable to write them, I could not engrave
them. My excuse was kindly received, and thus, by the grace
of God, I avoided the danger of contributing to the propagation
of error.

About this time the Emperor gave to Fathers Cardoso, Tilisch,
Pedrini, and myself, four superb why-ttaos of choice silk lined
with ermine, and worth at least twenty pounds each. With the
exception of another garment intended to preserve me from the
rain, this was the only thing I received from the monarch during
the thirteen long years that I toiled for him. Several of the old
missionaries who had spent their lives in his service told me
that he had never made them any present at all. His Majesty
imagined that he obliged us Europeans exceedingly by allowing
us to have the honor of working for him, as he clearly intimated
to us several times.

A few days after, the Emperor set out for Tartary, but without

94 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

taking any Europeans with him, which gave us no small appre-
hension. On endeavoring to discover the cause of this novelty,
we found that a high law-officer had presented to the Board of
Rites a very elaborate libel against our holy religion, and that
his Majesty had left us all behind lest we might trouble him with
memorials and petitions. Having found this out, the mission-
aries in Peking, who derived no other advantage from their la-
bors than the good graces of the Emperor and the courtiers, now
employed all their interest in the defence of our faith. In con-
sequence of their exertions, the Board of Rites was led to declare
that the Europeans had fixed their residence in China with his
Majesty's positive permission ; that they had rendered themselves
useful to the empire in the formation of the calendar, the manu-
facture of arms, the war against the Muscovites, and in numer-
ous other ways ; and that, as they had never offended against
any one, it would not be right to forbid them the use of their own
religion on the mere assertion that it was false ; concluding, that
those who were furnished with the imperial Piao should not be
molested, and that those who had none might be banished to
Macao. This declaration was immediately sent to the Emperor,
who with his own hand wrote at the bottom of it, " I approve."
When he returned from Tartary we all repaired to the palace to
thank him by word of mouth and in writing, besides the usual
nine ko-tows, or prostrations.

In the mean time I continued to improve in the art of engrav-
ing ; and when his Majesty saw some copies of the last print I
had produced, he said they were "pan-pei," which means a
treasure. On this occasion he commanded me to engrave the
forty views of Je-hol which he had ordered his painters to take,
intending to get them bound in volumes with some poetical com-
positions, and then make presents of them to the King and
Princes of Tartary. He also inquired whether I would take two
Chinese pupils, on the condition that they should not teach my
art to any one else. On my answering that I wished nothing so
well as to please his Majesty, he immediately sent to Peking for
two young men, whom I instructed with tolerable success, to-
gether with some others who came afterwards. Ever since the
day of my arrival at Je-hol, I had been frequently visited by a

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 95

youth of good family, wliom I had done every thing in my power
to convert. With the excessive civility of a Chinese, he always
affected to be convinced by my argmnents ; but the moment he
joined his friends he turned my efforts into ridicule, laughing
with them heartily. I was informed of this, but nevertheless I
did not cease to instil the word of God into his heart. One day
he came to see me at the moment I was instructing two Chinese
who had pressed me to teach them the dogmas of our faith, and
he begged me to allow him to listen. To confess the truth, I
was not much pleased with his presence, fearing that he might
divert the others from the resolution they had formed of em-
bracing the Christian faith ; but not to offend him, I granted his
request. I spoke for about three quarters of an hour, proving
the existence of God, and the falsehood of idols ; then by de-
grees explaining the principal mysteries of Christianity. After
this they all earnestly entreated me to baptize them, which I did
with infinite satisfaction, after having tried the firmness of their
determination for some time.

The Emperor having decided to return from Je-hol to Peking,
ordered us to precede him by four or uve miles, so that we might
avoid the confusion inseparable from the march of an army, with
the thousands of wagons, mules, camels, and horses that trans-
ported the imperial baggage. The camels alone amounted to
more than six hundred. With respect to these animals I may
here remark that they are brought from Tartary, which abounds
in them as well as in horses. I was however assured by those
Europeans who had surveyed the whole of Chinese Tartary,
when executing a map of that country, that they had never seen
an ass or a mule there.

In the place at which we halted to sleep, w^e found houses
constructed for the service of the Emperor ; but before entering
them, his Majesty superstitiously commanded the lamas to bless
them, and drive away the evil spirits. Every one expected to
pass the great wall that evening, and stop at another place some
miles farther, and accordingly many of the mandarins in attend-
ance had passed the great barrier of the country, and erected
pavilions where they supposed the Emperor would halt ; but an
order was soon issued that they should all return, and that, as

96 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

they passed the gate of the great wall, the guards should write
down their names, and immediately send a list to his Majesty.
This was punctually executed, and many of the party were se-
verely punished. Two of the mandarins, who were appointed
to take care of the Europeans, alleged that they had gone for-
ward to recall the persons they had in charge, and the excuse
was admitted. Another disguised himself in the dress of my
servant, and not being discovered he escaped castigation. As
the guards at the gate allowed no baggage to return, many were
obliged to sleep on the bare ground, and others in the open air,
at a time when in the morning the water and even the ground
was frozen.

When we arrived at Chan-choon-yuen, the imperial residence
near Peking, to our great terror we saw in the garden of that
great palace eight or ten mandarins, and two eunuchs upon their
knees, bare-headed, and with their hands tied behind them. At
a small distance from them the sons of the Emperor were stand-
ing in a row, also with their heads bare, and their hands bound
upon their breasts. Shortly after, the Emperor came out of his
apartments in an open sedan, and proceeded to the place where
the princes were undergoing punishment. On reaching the spot
he broke out with the fury of a tiger, loading the heir-apparent
v/ith reproaches, and confined him to his own palace, together
with his family and court. In a public manifesto he subsequently
deposed the unfortunate prince as suspected of treason ; and to
prove to the nation his incapability of reigning, among other
things he accused him of being addicted to an atrocious offence,
which the laws of China, though promulgated by heathens, hold
in the greatest abomination.

The Emperor could not remain long in the same place, and
thus after a few days he left Chan-choon-yuen for Pa-chao, an-
other mansion of enormous dimensions, with a park so abounding
with stags that they appear like flocks of sheep. Here it was
that, in ancient times, the sovereigns of China enjoyed the pleas-
ures of a country life ; but the Emperor Kang-hy, after erecting
the palace of Chan-choon-yuen, only repaired to Pa-chao once a
year, to hunt the stag and other animals. After the chase, he
returned to Peking to celebrate the solemn festival of the sixtieth

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 97

year of his age ; a period which in China is equivalent to our
century.

On the fourth day of April, 1713, the chief mandarins from
all parts of the empire arrived at Peking to assist at the celebra-
tion, and take part in the splendid rejoicings which were made
upon this occasion. Every one offered to the sovereign gifts of
the rarest description, according to his rank and power. We Eu-
ropeans, each contributing his share, made his Majesty a present
consisting of European wine, Brazilian tobacco, which is the
most esteemed in China, one pound of gum storax, a piece of the
finest linen, two painted quilts from Coromandel, several white
pocket handkerchiefs of the finest description trimmed with lace,
four embroidered purses, various kinds of scissors, knives, and
small padlocks, three pounds of tartar, a mathematical instrument,
two pots of balsam, six bottles of confectionary, with twelve jars
of preserved quinces, eight stones of gaspar antonic, saffron, bark,
oils, and medicinal roots.

On arriving at the palace, we showed our offering to the man-
darins, but they would not receive it until we first took away the
medicinal articles, and reduced the whole to even numbers, de-
claring that on such a day it was an evil omen to offer to his
Majesty an odd number, or articles of medicine. Having carried
oack our gift, we discussed among ourselves whether it would
not be better to offer nothing at all than to subtract the medical
articles, and reduce the whole to even numbers ; but the opinion
of the majority was, that in order to avoid giving offence, it was
expedient to make the present. Upon this I withdrew, leaving
the others to do what they liked, and they took away the m^ical
articles and made the numbers even. We afterwards returned to
the palace, where, kneeling as usual before the mandarins, and
wishing his Majesty every happiness, we declared that we felt
ashamed to present such trifles. The Emperor returned in answer
that he felt much pleasure in receiving the expression of our good
wishes, and out of all the above-named articles, he made choice
of thirteen, which was considered as a great favor. From each
of the mandarins he only accepted one or two things, refusing all
the rest. His Majesty afterwards conferred a particular honor
on me, by sending me a box of European colors, which had been

7

98 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

presented to him by one of his courtiers. On this occasion the
whole city of Peking wore an appearance of festivity. All were
habited in gala dresses, banquets were given without end, fire-
works discharged, and every kind of rejoicing carried on as at
the new year. But that which above all things struck me with
astonishment, was the spectacle exhibited upon the royal road
from Chan-choon-yuen to Peking, which is about three miles in
length. This road was adorned on both sides with an artificial
wall composed of mats, and entirely covered with silks of the
most beautiful workmanship, while at certain distances were
erected fanciful houses, temples, altars, triumphal arches, and
theatres, in which musical dramas were represented. So great
was the abundance of silk, that we Europeans all agreed in think-
ing that no kingdom in Europe possessed so much. Public
prayers were also delivered by the mandarins in the numerous
temples of the capital, for the safety of the Emperor and the con-
tinuation of his line ; and at the same time various prostrations
and sacrifices were made before a picture representing the mon-
arch.

It is a universal custom in China, that during such solemni-
ties no one should pass on horseback before any temple, but
that all should alight, and proceed on foot. Being ignorant of
this practice, I one day nearly transgressed it, when on a sudden
I was surrounded by soldiers, with whips in their hands, who
called out loudly, '^ Down, down !" I immediately understood
what this meant ; but as I would not take any part in their
superstitious ceremonies, I turned back my horse and galloped
aways to the great amusement of the gazing crowd. Fortunately
for me every one could see by my beard that I was a European ;
for if I had been a Chinese, without giving me the least intima-
tion to dismount, the guards would have subjected me at once to
the severe discipline of their whips.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 99

CHAPTER XVI.

Public Rejoicings — Provincial Deputations — Strawberries and Asparagus —
The First Pupil — Regard of the Chmese for their Beards — Russian
Priests.

Ox the llth of the same month the Emperor went in state from
Chan-choon-yuen to his palace in Peking, allowing every one
to see him. On ordinary occasions his Majesty is always pre-
ceded by a great number of horsemen, who clear the streets
entirely, causing all the houses and shops to be shut, and a
canvass to be drawn before every opening, so that no one
might see him. The same precautions are taken when the Em-
peror's ladies, or those of his sons, are about to pass. His
Majesty generally comes forth on horseback, and the ladies are
always conveyed in close carriages. Upon this celebration of
the sixtieth anniversary of the Emperor's birth, the openings
were not stopped nor the doors shut, nor were the people driven
away. The streets and roads were now crowded with countless
multitudes desirous of beholding their sovereign. He rode on
horseback, wearing a robe covered with dragons, magnificently
embroidered in gold, and having five claws, the five-clawed
dragon being exclusively worn by the imperial family. He
was preceded by about two thousand horse-soldiers, in splendid
array, and immediately followed by the princes of the blood, who
were succeeded by a great number of mandarins. After these
came a large body of soldiers, marching in a promiscuous mass,
without observing any order. We Europeans were disposed in
a rank near a bridge at no great distance from the palace, where
we awaited the arrival of his Majesty upon our knees. On
passing by, he paid particular attention to each of us, and
smilingly inquired which were those employed in drawing the
map.

A vast number of aged but healthy men had been sent to
Peking from all the provinces. They were in companies, bear-

100 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

ing the banner of their respective provinces. They also carried
various other symbols and trophies, and being symmetrically
drawn np along the streets through which the Emperor was to
pass, they presented a very beautiful and uncommon appearance.
Every one of these old men brought a present of some kind
to the Emperor, which generally consisted of vases and other
articles in bronze. His Majesty gave to each of them twelve
silver tahel, a coin worth about five shillings, together with a
gown of yellow silk, which is the imperial color. They after-
wards assembled all together in a place where the Emperor went
to see them ; and it was found that this venerable company
amounted to four thousand in number. His Majesty was highly
gratified with this spectacle ; he inquired the age of many, and
treated them all with the greatest affability and condescension.
He even invited them all to a banquet, at which he made them
sit in his presence, and commanded his sons and grandsons to
serve them with drink. After this, with his own hand, he pre-
sented every one of them with something ; to one who was the
most aged of the whole assembly, being nearly a hundred and
eleven years old, he gave a mandarin's suit complete, together
with a staff, an inkstand, and other thmgs.

Many compositions in verse and prose were produced on this
auspicious occasion, and some of our missionaries humbly peti-
tioned his Majesty for a copy of the collection to send to Europe,
which he granted, commanding Father Bovet to translate them.
In these poems divine titles and honors were given to Kang-hy,
who was indeed held in such veneration throughout China, that
he often received the appellation of Fo^ a national deity univer-
sally adored, both by Tartars and Chinese. I myself very fre-
quently heard him designated as the living Fo.

Don Pedrini had constructed a small organ, which being
moved by clock-work, played a tune whenever a spring was
touched. He carried it to the palace, and requested the man-
darin Chao to present it to the Emperor. But this courtier,
perceiving that Pedrini was becoming a favorite, declined to
receive it, and presented another self-acting instrument of the
same description. Not long after Chao fell ill, and Pedrini,
taking advantage of the opportunity, carried his organ to the

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 101

palace. The other mandarins, deeming it their duty to please
the sovereign rather than Chao, presented it to his Majesty, who
accepted it kindly, expressing himself highly delighted at the
invention.

As the Emperor could not bear to remain long in the same
place, after returning from Peking to Chan-choon-yuen, on the
2d of June he departed for Je-hol with his usual retinue.
Throughout the journey old men and women were seen standing
in ranks near their dwellings, with flowers in their hands, wait-
ing till his Majesty arrived, to wish him a long and happy life.
At other times no one was permitted to see the Emperor pass ;
but this year being the completion of a Chinese century of his
age, this favor was granted, but only to old people.

On arriving at Je-hol, we Europeans were requested by order
of his Majesty to explain what was the use of strawberries, and
how they were eaten in Europe. During all my journeyings in
China I had never seen any strawberries, and I had only re-
marked a few of these plants among the mountains of Tartary.
I was however informed that they might be found also in some
wild parts of China, but that no care was taken to cultivate them.
Yet the Emperor, having understood that we were fond of them,
caused them to be planted in his gardens, and even bestowed
much care upon their cultivation. I observed also that hops and
asparagus grew in Tartary ; but both the Chinese and the Tar-
tars laughed on hearing me say that these plants were highly
esteemed in Europe.

When I had finished engraving the views of the imperial
mansion of Je-hol, I presented the prints to his Majesty, who
was greatly pleased with them, and commanded that a large
quantity should be taken off for his sons, grandsons, and other
princes. Being well satisfied with the manner in which I had
bound these thirty-six views of Je-hol in one volume, he ordered
me to engrave and arrange together in the same manner the
great map of the empire, which I afterwards executed in forty-
four plates, as may be seen in the hall of our college.

Upon the return of the Emperor to Je-hol, I baptized a youth
of the age of thirteen, whose parents were Christians. As I had
remarked, from my first acquaintance with him, that he possessed

102 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

certain excellent qualities suitable to the priestly office, I under-
took to instruct liim in all that is necessary for a Christian mis-
sionary. He was the first youth that I took with me for this
purpose ; and he afterwards followed me to Naples, where he
became the senior student in this institution at which I am now
writing.

In November, 1715, I was summoned into the presence of the
Emperor, to act as interpreter to two Europeans, a painter and
a chemist, who had just arrived. While we were awaiting his
Majesty's pleasure in one of the anterooms, a eunuch addressed
my companions in Chinese, and was angry because they returned
no answer. I immediately told him the cause of their silence,
upon which he said, that we Europeans were all so alike that it
was scarcely possible to distinguish one from another. I had
often heard the same remark from other persons, our resemblance
being generally attributed to the long beards we all wore. The
Chinese do not shave ; but their beards are so thin that the hairs
might be counted : the few they have, however, they value even
to ridicule. Father Perreyra having once perceived a white
hair on the face of a mandarin, with whom he was familiarly
acquainted, hastened to pluck it out, supposing that he did him
a service. The mandarin, on the contrary, was both vexed and
grieved at the loss ; and picking up the hair, he wrapped it care-
fully in a piece of paper, and took it home. The Emperor
himself was not exempt from this weakness. He once com-
manded Father Rod, who acted as his surgeon, to cure him of a
boil that had formed upon his face. Father Rod prescribed a
plaster, saying that, in order to apply it properly, it would be
necessary to cut off a few hairs from his Majesty's beard ; and
the Emperor, after a long consultation with his looking-glass,
ordered the most dexterous of his eunuchs to cut them. Imme-
diately after the operation he looked at himself again, and, with
marks of deep grief, he bitterly reproved the eunuch for having
so grossly blundered as to cut off four hairs when three would
have been quite enough.

There were in Peking an abbot and twelve priests, who had
been sent by Peter the Great to administer spiritual comfort to
the families of the Russian prisoners of war. As strange things

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 103

were reported concerning these ecclesiastics, I resolved to make
their personal acquaintance, with a view of sending an exact
account of them to the Propaganda. According to the custom
of the country in which we were, I first sent a present to the
abbot, then waited upon him myself. I found him courteous
and dignified in his manners, and remarkably neat in his dress
and furniture. Whenever he came out of his church he held a
crucifix on his breast, and the pastoral in his hand. He was a
schismatic, but with me he pretended to be a Catholic. He
spoke just enough Latin to make himself understood ; and as he
told me that one of his priests, who was ill, could also speak
this language, I went to see him, but all I could get out of the
man was — intelligit, intelligit. The abbot told me that all the
Christians of his sect in Peking scarcely amounted to fifty, and
were descendants of prisoners of war, one of whom still lived,
though far advanced in years. I asked him whether it was true
that he had baptized a great number of Chinese. To this he re-
plied that his christenings had been limited to the families of the
Russian prisoners ; that he did not attend to the Chinese because
he was ignorant of their language, and the abandoned state of
his own congregation required all his attention. Their church,
which, like the temples of the Chinese idolaters, they call Miao,
had upon its front a cross like ours, but with tw^o transversal
bars besides. They call God Fo, which is the appellation of an
idol, and their clergy Lamas, like the priests of Fo. They offi-
ciate in their church without any ceremony, admitting men and
women at the same time, which in China is considered nothing
less than an abomination. The men remain uncovered as we do
in Europe ; but our Christians in China, including the officiating
priest, keep covered the whole time, the Chinese considering
this as a mark of respect. Although the abbot was so elegant
in his dress, the priests under him had a mean and shabby ap-
pearance : and I even saw some of them at play in the public
streets before the church ; which in China is absolutely indec-
orous, and not to be done by any person of the least respect-
ability.

104 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

CHAPTER XYII.

Dread of the Plague — Death of Father Tilisch — Alarm among the Christians
— Firmness of the Emperor — His Avarice — Origin of the Chinese Col-

In the summer of 1716 there was a great deal of iUness at Je-
hol, and the Emperor became apprehensive that it might be the
plague. He therefore ordered all the physicians at his court to
visit the sick singly, and to dravv^ up a separate report of each
case, pointing outthe remedies required. All the Europeans at
Je-hol, as well as two lamas who had the reputation of being
well acquainted with the medical science, received the same
command from his Majesty. We all went our rounds ; but we
Europeans, not being physicians, refused to prescribe remedies.
The mandarins, however, insisted on our conforming to the im-
perial will ; and when my turn came, after vainly protesting my
ignorance of medicine, I allowed the words to escape me, that 1
knew what to prescribe for those suffering from costiveness.
Upon this, they pressed me eagerly to name the remedy ; and I
told them of a mechanical one, which, on being explained to the
Emperor, amused his imperial Majesty amazingly. What rather
astonished me on this occasion, was to hear the two lamas talk,
with clearness and propriety, about the circulation of the blood,
and the animalcules engendered when it is impaired.

On the 8th of September of this year, I suffered a heavy loss
in the death of Father Tilisch, with whom 1 had made the jour-
ney from Canton to Peking, and had lived ever since in the
houses that the Emperor gave us at Chan-choon-yuen and Je-hol.
He died of a tedious and loathsome disease, through which I
nursed him with unwearied devotion ; and the Emperor, who
had a great regard for him, was exceedingly pleased at vv^hat I
did for him. My lamented friend was buried in the cemetery of
the Portuguese missionaries at Peking, whither it was my lot to
accompany him. It being strictly forbidden to carry the dead

AT THE COURT OF PEKLNG. 105

through the gate used by the sovereign, we went by another
road. I then saw another part of Tartary and of the groat wall,
travelling along defiles continually hemmed in by lofty and pre-
cipitous mountains.

At this period, Ching-mow, a military mandarin who resided
at Kie-she, not far from Canton, sent a libel to the Emperor, in
which he attempted to show that the foreign trade, and the prop-
agation of the Christian religion, were highly detrimental to the
empire. His Majesty handed it over to the Ping-poo, or Milita-
ry Board, in order that, after giving due consideration to the
charge, it might come to a proper decision regarding it. The
Ping-poo answered that the matter, being of paramount impor-
tance, should be referred to the Kieu-king, or Supreme Board.
The recommendation was followed, and the Kieu-king resolved
that Canton should be closed against foreigners, our holy religion
prohibited, all the Christians imprisoned, and their churches de-
molished.

On hearing this, the Europeans in Peking deputed three mis-
sionaries to plead their cause with the Emperor. These depu-
ties waited upon his Majesty with a petition, wherein they
dexterously reminded him of the existing laws in favor of the
Christian religion ; but, contrary to the general custom, they
could obtain no answer. This made us apprehend that a severe
persecution w^as preparing against us, and for some time we were
in a state of extreme anxiety. Not long after, however, the
viceroy of Canton, obeying, as it was supposed, a secret order
of the Emperor, sent a report to the Ping-poo, in which he stated
that the commerce of Canton could not endanger the safety of
the empire, and should not be stopped, but that our religion
should be suppressed. The following day the Emperor decreed
that, conformably to the viceroy's report, the commerce of Can-
ton should be re-opened, but that the suppression of the Christian
religion should be suspended.

We then repaired to the palace for the purpose of expressing
our gratitude to the Emperor ; but before we had performed the
indispensable prostrations, and returned thanks either by word
of mouth or in writing, Wey, the first eunuch, came out of the
imperial apartments, and addressed us with these words : — " His

106 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

Majesty says that you need not thank him, for he has granted
you no favor, the decree by which the suppression of your reli-
gion is suspended, being the same that he issued last year on a
similar occasion. His Majesty is invariably true to his word,
and never abrogates what he has once decreed."

Whenever we followed the Emperor from Peking to Je-hol,
the expenses of our journey were defrayed by a pah-yen, that is,
a custom-house officer, who was commanded to support us out
of what he had gained in the exercise of his office. In 1718,
however, his Majesty's avarice increasing as he advanced in years,
he decreed that in future the pah-yen should pay into the im-
perial treasury what they were bound to supply for our main-
tenance, towards repairing the palace, the roads, and the bridges,
and other similar purposes, amounting altogether to an exor-
bitant sum ; and that these several items should be economically
defrayed at his expense. In consequence of this new arrange-
ment, each of us was now allowed one cart and four mules for
the conveyance of his baggage, a tent, a horse, and twelve tahels
a-month ; but as we had to keep the horse at our expense, this
allowance of about three pounds a-month was insufficient to meet
our wants, and we were obliged to make up the remainder as
well as we could.

In the month of June of the subsequent year, while following
the Emperor to Je-hol as usual, I met, in the neighborhood of
Low-kwo-tien, several Christians, who had come to ask me to
administer the holy sacrament to a woman who was dying in
Koo-pa-kew, a place five miles distant, and close to the great
wall. Koo-pa-kew contained about two hundred and fifty Chris-
tians, who deserved the praise and affection of the missionaries
for their fervent attachment to our religion. Accordingly I went
to confess the dying woman, after which I gave her the sacra-
ment and the extreme unction. Yielding to the pressing en-
treaties of several persons, I devoted the remainder of the day to
receiving their confessions ; and when evening came, as the
chapel continued to be full of people who awaited their turn,
after taking a slight refreshment I resumed my work, and carried
it on throughout the night without once closing my eyes ; but
as most of these deserted Christians had not been able to confess

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 107

for a long time, their confessions were generally so long that I
could not listen to more than seventy-two. In consequence of
this, the next morning, immediately after mass, I again betook
myself to the confessional with unabated zeal, so that during a
stay of three days I confessed one hundred and ninety-nine per-
sons, administered the sacrament to one hundred and sixty-seven,
and christened fifty-four.

Among those whom I baptized at Koo-pa-kew was the uncle
of the sovereign of Mong-quo-pah, a state situated in the pro-
vince of Kwey-chau, but almost independent of the Emperor of
China, as is shown by a blank in the map of the empire which
I engraved. This neophyte told me that throughout his nephew's
dominions, no idols, images, or deities were worshipped, and
that consequently there were no temples nor bonzes, nor any
other sort of priests. He asked for a good number of religious
books to distribute among his fellow-countrymen, and prayed
that a missionary might be sent to teach them the Holy Word.

The youth I had taken with me in 1714, with a view of bring-
ing him up for the church, was a native of Koo-pa-kew. On this
occasion I was pressed to receive three other boys from the same
place, among whom was the blessed John In, of whom I shall
say more hereafter. On arriving at Je-hol with these four boys,
I caused a room to be fitted up with five partitions, each having
a curtain in front, and in these I put four beds for them, and one
for a gentleman whom I appointed to instruct them in the lan-
guage and knowledge of the Chinese. I then established a
division of time for prayers, spiritual conversation, study, and
other occupations, so that my infant institution had more the ap-
pearance of a novitiate than of a school, as I called it. I did not
call it a college, because at this period I had in truth no higher
object than that of forming a mere school, which should end with
my life in that same country. I well knew how much that vast
field lacked laborers, and that Europe could not furnish them, the
number of missionaries she had sent thither from 1580 to 1724
scarcely amounting to five hundred. I also knew that, however
numerous and zealous the European missionaries might be, they
could not produce any satisfactory results, in consequence of the
formidable barrier of the language, which up to my time none

108 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

had been able to surmount so as to make himself understood by
the people at large. For these reasons, and others which I
think it unnecessary to state, I firmly believed that it was indis-
pensable to establish in the church of God a religious community
exclusively for the purpose of qualifying the natives for the apos-
tolical ministry. But as I possessed neither the funds nor the
convenience, or support required for so great an undertaking, I
felt compelled to keep within an humbler sphere.

My brothers and other European friends, however, having
heard of my intention of undertaking the education of young
Chinese, meanwhile had sent me a liberal supply of money,
which unexpectedly reached me at the very moment when it v/as
wanted. As land in China produces twelve per cent, on the
capital invested, and houses even as much as eighteen, the sum I
thus received secured me a yearly income more than sufficient
to cover my expenses. Nearly at the same time I also received
two dispatches from Rome, by which his Holiness conferred on
me the office of Apostolical Prothonotary, and the living of San
Lorenzo, in Arena, in the diocese of Mileto, implying the
privilege of wearing mitre and crosier. Encouraged by these
various and distinguished favors of Divine Providence, I now
aspired to extend my school, and to devote it exclusively to
forming native ecclesiastics ; but the malice with which my
efforts w^ere opposed both by Asiatics and Europeans, soon con-
vinced me that God had disposed otherwise, and that China was
not the spot in which my intended institution could prosper.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 109

CHAPTER XVIII.

Chapels for Women — Chinese Jealousy — Don Pedrini arrested — Machina-
tions against the School — Lucio — John In withdrawn — His Fathers
Death — His Return — A Dream.

On my return to Peking I established a chapel in the house of
one of my penitents who lived near the Palace, so that the
Christian women of the neighborhood might perform their re-
ligious duties. This scheme having succeeded beyond my ex-
pectations, I erected another chapel in Peking, and one at Chan-
choon-yuen, both for the exclusive service of v/omen, who, owing
to the excessive jealousy with which they are kept, could not
enter the place of worship destined for men. The Jesuits had a
church for women at Peking, but it was only opened once in six
months. In other places where two churches could not be pro-
cured, the two sexes went to the same, but at different times ;
and on the day appointed for the women, it was necessary to
place two guards at the door to prevent the intrusion of men.

To show how jealously the women of China are watched, and
how cautious the missionaries ought to be, I will relate what
happened to me at Chan-choon-yuen. One day when I was in
the above-mentioned chapel, confessing in turn several women
who were stationed behind a curtain, I observed a man passing
to and fro before the door and watching my actions. When my
duty was over, I asked the beadle who the man was, and what
he wanted ; and he replied, with a smile, that he was a heathen
but lately married to a Christian, who had stipulated that she
should be allowed the free exercise of her religion. On the pre-
ceding day she had told him, that in the morning she would
come to Atso-koong-foo, which means " to do the business," this
being the manner in which the Chinese express confession. Not
understanding what business his young bride could have to per-
form with another man, he had given her permission to come,
but had followed her by stealth, in order to watch her pro-

110 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

ceedings. The beadle having been informed of this, took no
notice of him, in order that his mind might be relieved from any-
jealous suspicions. After he had watched for some time, find-
ing that I remained seated and immoveable, he approached the
beadle, and said he thought we were mad, as we sat doing
nothing while we pretended to have business to transact. The
beadle explained the mystery to him, by informing him that the
women on the other side of the curtain came one after the other
to confess their transgressions, and that, after suitable correction
and instructions, if repentant I absolved them, upon which ex-
planation he went away apparently satisfied.

On the afternoon of the 8th of February, 1720, amidst the
general rejoicing and feasting of a Chinese new-year's day, two
bailiffs seized our friend Don Pedrini in his apartment, bound
his hands with a handkerchief, and led him away. Father Jar-
tou and myself, anxious to ascertain the cause of his arrest, fol-
lowed him to the imperial palace, whither he had been taken,
and there we found that one of the eunuchs had made him go
through the genuflexions and prostrations with which it is cus-
tomary, on that day, to pay homage to the Emperor. We were
informed that he had been arrested because on that morning he
had not joined the other Europeans in fulfilling that duty, espe-
cially as on the occasion of his Majesty's mother's death he had
already been guilty of a similar neglect. The Emperor had
only ordered that Don Pedrini should be desired to go and per-
form the ceremonies above-mentioned, and that, if he declined
complying with the command, he should be dragged to the
palace in chains, and compelled to obey ; but the mandarin
Chao, who was our sworn enemy, without waiting to see what
Pedrini would do, had overstepped his instructions, and directed
that our companion should at once be treated as a malefactor, in
order to cast a slur upon us all.

The day after, mistaking my affliction for terror, the wily
Chao took me aside, and under the pretence of anxious benevo-
lence, exhorted me with all the power of his eloquence not to
follow Pedrini's example, unless I wished to get into a similar
scrape. The drift of all this was an insinuation that I should
give up my school, and remain idle in that vast vineyard of the

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. Ill

Lord ; for he held my endeavors to form native ecclesiastics in
absolute abhorrence, and was doing all in his power to frustrate
them. He was assisted in this unholy work by several other
courtiers, and even by some Europeans, who lived either in
dread of his resentment, or under the sway of still baser feel-
ings ; there was no stratagem which this perverse coalition
scrupled to employ, if it was but likely to cause the dispersion
of my school. One day they forged a letter from the parents of
my pupils, saying, that as the soldiers I had confessed at Koo-
pa-kew had refused to take part in the funeral rites of a deceased
mandarin, they requested me to send their sons home. Another
time they sent letters to the same Christians of Koo-pa-kew,
purporting that I kept their boys with me for abominable pur-
poses, and that unless they were instantly withdrawn, they would
certainly incur some fearful punishment. Upon other occasions
they tried to daunt my resolution by spreading all sorts of calum-
nious reports against my character, and hinting in various ways
that the Emperor was on the eve of giving me some fearful mark
of his displeasure.

Notwithstanding these vexatious proceedings, my pupils, their
parents, and myself, were immoveable in our determination ; but
wishing to irritate my enemies as little as possible, I resolved to
take no more pupils than I already had. Accordingly I wrote to
stop a certain Lucio U, who was to join us from the province of
Nanking ; but my letter crossed him on the road, and when he
reached my school after forty days' journey, I did not like to re-
fuse him admission : happy would it have been for me had he
never entered my doors, for he turned out to be the greatest af-
fliction of my long and agitated life, as the reader will see.

Meanwhile the Emperor's birthday came, and we had to offer
presents to his Majesty as usual. Don Pedrini presented a
mimber of European curiosities,, and the Emperor accepted
twenty-four sheets of paper, thus showing that the Father was
not quite out of favor. I offered my gift with considerable ap-
prehension, not only because I was Pedrini's companion, but
also because I had nothing in my possession that was worth
oflfering ; it consisted of four pounds of European colors, a pound
of tartar, six ounces of treacle, and a few fumigating pastiles.

112 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

Although these articles were of no value, his Majesty did me
the honor of accepting them all. A few days after we met the
Emperor in the garden of the Palace, and his Majesty asked
Pedrini his age, thus showing that he began to receive him again
into favor.

Perceiving after this that the name of the Emperor could no
longer be used as a means of intimidation, the persecutors of my
school now betook themselves to the expedient of sending to the
Bishop of Peking a remonstrance, which was a tissue of most
abominable inventions against my character. They stated,
among other things, that it was highly discreditable to the Chi-
nese mission that one of its members should travel about in the
suite of the Emperor, with a carriage full of boys, just as some
of the chief courtiers were doing, to the great scandal of the
nation ; and that in my case this was the more blameable, be-
cause at Je-hol I lodged in the house of the Emperor's uncle,
whose son was Governor of the Nine Gates, and Censor of
Morals. Unwilling to give offence to my powerful accusers, the
bishop answered their communications in terms which appeared
to imply that he disapproved of my conduct, and at the same time
he advised me to dismiss three of my pupils, and to keep the
other two as servants, teaching them nothing more than the
Chinese characters. Hereupon I wrote a minute justification
of all my proceedings, refuting each imputation by the assertion
of facts which were calculated to make my enemies tremble for
their own safety. The bishop instantly forwarded this to them,
and they were so ashamed and alarmed that they gave me no
farther annoyance through this channel.

At last, however, they succeeded in inducing John In's father
to withdraw him from my care. On my passage through Koo-
pa-kew, in the summer of 1720, this deluded man pretended to
be ill, and pressed me to leave his son with him. I told him, in
the presence of several other Christians, that if his illness was a
mere pretence, he did very wrong in thus reclaiming what he had
offered up to God ; to which, unfortunately for him, he answered,
that if what he alleged were not true, he knew it would be an
attempt to deceive the Almighty, and not me. On hearing this,
I gave the boy my blessing, together with several presents, and

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 11.3

we parted. The next morning he came with his eldest brother
to see me once more before my departure. I then asked him
Avhether his father was really ill, as he had affirmed on the
previous evening ; and he replied, that on their arriving home.
his father himself had told him that he was quite well, but had
pleaded illness only as an excuse for taking him away from my
school, as he had been assured that the Emperor was on the
point of putting us all to death on account of our supposed mal-
practices.

The poor boy had passed the whole night in tears : his eyes
were swollen, his countenance pale and emaciated. He threw
himself at my feet, and tried to confess, but his constant sobs
scarcely allowed him to articulate a word. After confession, he
spontaneously vowed to return to my school, and enter the
church, as soon as the Lord should grant him an opportunity of
so doing. I then exhorted him to patience, constancy, and con-
fidence in God, and again blessed him ; but as he continued to
lament, saying that in those mountains of Koo-pa-kew he had
no one to guide him in the path of salvation, I took from my
neck the crucifix which had been my guide and comfort in all
my travels, and gave it to him, with the assurance that if he
consulted His Divine Majesty he would receive far better spirit-
ual lessons than from my poor self. Unable any longer to re-
strain my feelings, I hurriedly mounted my horse, and resumed
my journey, overwhelmed with grief at this heart-rending sepa-
ration.

vSoon after my departure, while this youth was at his devotions,
a friend suddenly came and informed him that his father was •
dying. He instantly rushed to his father's bed-side, but only
arrived in time to see him expire. His father had been seized
■with an apoplectic fit, and calling for a physician instead of a
confessor, he died without receiving the holy sacrament. This
awful visitation made a great impression on the Christians of
Koo-pa-kew, who viewed it as a punishment inflicted by the Al-
mighty on the deceased for his impious behavior. His father's
funeral was no sooner over than John In wanted to join us again ;
but; notwithstanding his urgent prayers and entreaties, his mother
would never allow him to do so. Taking advantage of her pa-

8

114 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

rental authority, she had even prepared chains and stocks where-
with to punish him had he attempted to escape. Finding him-
self thus debarred from the life that he so ardently desired, he
shut himself up in his room, where he spent his days and nights
in tears, taking scarce any food. At the end of a month he was
so thin and exhausted, that his mother, perceiving no other
means of saving his life, at last allowed him to depart. The day
of his unexpected return was one of rejoicing to us all. Pale
and sad as he had latterly been, he now suddenly recovered, as
if by miracle, his natural complexion and buoyancy of spirits,
so that his brother burst into a flood of tears at this unexpected
consolation.

There is a singular circumstance connected with this incident,
which I will relate for the edification of my readers. On the
morning of the 28th of the preceding month of March, my as-
sistant informed me that he had heard John In weeping during
the night, but had been unable to elicit from him the cause of
his grief: hereupon I sent for the youth, and pressed him to say
what ailed him. He then told me that he had been greatly dis-
tressed in his sleep by a dream which still continued to harass
his mind with all the force of reality. In this dream, which he
related to me, he had anticipated his withdrawal from school, the
death of his father, the obduracy of his mother, his solitude and
subsequent illness, and his eventual return to us ; all of which
was afterwards realized with a minuteness and accuracy of de-
tail perfectly astonishing.

I have dwelt thus much on the obstacles against which I had
to contend during the infancy of my institution, in order that
others may take example, and never expect praise or assistance
from man in the works which they undertake for the service of
God, as, sooner or later, they will be amply rewarded by Him.
All these storms raised by Satan against my frail little bark, on
its first setting sail, were a favorable omen ; for the great enemy
of mankind would not have opposed its progress with so much
malice if he had not dreaded the good results which it was des-
tined to produce.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 115

CHAPTER XIX.

Arrival of the Russian Embassy — Point of Etiquette — Imperial Manifesto —
Mutual Concessions.

On the 29th November of the same year, 1720, Count Is-
mailof, who was sent on an embassy to his Celestial Majesty by
the Czar, Peter the Great, made his public entry into Peking
with a retinue of ninety persons, and the sound of trumpets,
drums, and other military instruments. He was on horseback,
and had a man of gigantic height on one side of him, and a
dwarf on the other, both on foot. His retinue partly preceded
and partly followed him ; some on horseback, and others on
foot ; all with drawn swords, and in splendid array. Count Is-
mailof had a fine person and a noble expression of countenance ;
he spoke German, French, and Italian, and had some slight know-
ledge of Latin.

To conduct the negotiations with this ambassador the Em-
peror appointed a commission, consisting of a mandarin and two
courtiers, all personages of great authority ; and deputed ^ve
Europeans and a Chinese to serve as interpreters. Being one
of the number, I had the honor of waiting on Count Ismailof
together with the others. After an exchange of compliments,
the ambassador said he had a letter from the Czar, which he was
instructed to deliver into his Celestial Majesty's o\^ti hands ; and
on being questioned as to its contents, he produced a copy, and
gave it to the commissioners. Louis Fan, the Chinese inter-
preter, was desired to read it ; but the letter was written in
Latin, and the poor man knew so little of this language, that he
had been obliged to petition the Pope for a dispensation from
reading mass every day. He muttered and mumbled till he
wore out the patience of the bystanders ; and when at length
he was pressed to tell the meaning, he was obliged to confess
that he could not make it out. The letter was then handed
to us, and we immediately read the contents. It imported that

116 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

the Czar, being desirous to strengthen the good understanding
in which he had hitherto lived with the Emperor, had sent Count
Ismailof as his ambassador, requesting his Majesty to Usten to
all the details that he would have to submit to him, and not to
send him back to Moscow before the business on which he had
been dispatched was completely arranged.

The commissioners were incessant in their inquiries respecting
the business alluded to in the letter; but the wary Ismailof con-
stantly replied that he was forbidden to speak upon the subject
until the letter had been received by the Emperor, and his
diplomatic capacity acknowledged. As however the commis-
sioners insisted upon having the first information, the ambassa-
dor, being at length overcome by their troublesome importunity,
stated that the whole business consisted in the establishment of
a treaty between the Russians and the Chinese, in order to avert
any future misunderstanding. While we were engaged in con-
versation with the ambassador, the dinner sent him by his Ma-
jesty arrived ; and when he was requested to return thanks, by
making the accustomed prostrations, he refused, alleging that he
represented his sovereign, who was on equal terms with the Em-
peror ; but that he would make an obeisance according to the
custom of his country. The commissioners could not obtain any
further concessions, and were obliged to be satisfied.

The Emperor having been immediately informed of this, was
as much satisfied with the contents of the letter, and the business
on which the ambassador had been sent, as he was displeased to
hear of the reluctance which he had shown to perform the indis-
pensable prostrations. But he dissembled ; and in order to
obtain his object without coming to a rupture, he resorted to
the stratagem of inviting Count Ismailof to a private audience,
saying that he would receive the Czar's letter upon a subsequent
occasion. The ambassador immediately perceived the snare,
and returned thanks to his Majesty for the honor he was willing
to grant him as a private individual ; but added that, as he was
in the service of his sovereign, he must first beg to present his
letter.

The Emperor then ordered us to inform the ambassador that,
as he declined being presented to him before delivering the

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 117

Czar's letter, his Majesty would neither receive the letter nor
the gift sent him by the Czar ; and that he might therefore
return to Russia. To this Ismailof replied that, before execu-
ting the commission he had received from his sovereign, he could
not receive any personal distinction ; and when he was asked
whether, in presenting the letter, he would perform the prostra-
tions, he answered that he would not ; but that he would make
the obeisance which European ambassadors made before the
princes to whom they were sent.

Upon this the Emperor commanded one of his principal
eunuchs, a page, the master of the ceremonies, and the five Euro-
pean interpreters to inform the ambassador that, out of regard
to the Czar, he had been induced to do him the honor which he
had refused ; that, according to the immutable ceremonial of
China, it was incumbent upon ambassadors to make the prostra-
tions, and to place the letter upon a table, whence it was taken
by a great officer of state, and presented to his Majesty ; that
although such was the custom, he would waive it on that parti-
cular occasion, and receive him in the great hall : that, besides
this manner of presenting any thing written to his Majesty, there
was also the official channel of his government ; and that he
could choose which of the two ways suited him best. To the
suggestion of the official channel, the ambassador replied with a
smile ; and with respect to the other, he answered that he was
commanded by his master to deliver the letter into his Majesty's
own hands, and that he could not take upon himself to depart
from his instructions. The eunuch then told him that, if neither
of these ways satisfied him, he might endeavor to meet the
Emperor, as he was coming to Peking, and kneeling down
before his Majesty, present him the letter on the public road.
Count Ismailof also rejected this advice as indecorous towards his
own sovereign, and persisted in saying that he would deliver the
letter into the Emperor's own hands, in the palace where he was
accustomed to receive the ambassadors of other powers. At
this presumption, highly offensive to Chinese pride, the eunuch
smiled, and the page said that the ambassador must be mad ;
whereupon, without saying one word more, we all rose and
broke up the conference.

118 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

The interpreters were again summoned to the palace, and a
decree, written by the Emperor himself, was given to them for
translation, with the injunction that they should represent it as
the work of his Majesty's ministers, and should request the am-
bassador to reply, categorically, to every particular. The trans-
lation was executed by one of us w^ho was not in sufficient pos-
session of the Tartar language to render several parts of the ma-
nifesto very clearly.

The subject of this imperial edict, which was supposed to be
addressed by the Foreign Office to the ambassador, was as fol-
lows : — *' The Emperor had hitherto received, and treated with
great honor, all envoys of foreign powers ; and as during many
years he had been on a good understanding with the Czar, as
soon as he was informed of the approach of his ambassador to
Peking, he had sent some mandarins to meet him, furnishing him
with horses, and whatever else was necessary in the journey.
On the ambassador's arrival in Peking, one of his Majesty's
eunuchs was sent to him, with dishes from the imperial table,
and a message that after a few days he would be received at
court. His Majesty thought that all these favors might have in-
duced him to give up his unreasonable pretensions of delivering
the letter with his own hands, as he was no more than a repre-
sentative of his master. This circumstance had awakened much
suspicion upon his conduct. If he expected to receive the same
honors as those that would be paid to the Czar, if personally
present in Peking, the marks of respect hitherto shown him were
certainly insufficient, and other forms and ceremonies must be
put in practice. He, however, was not the Czar, but merely his
envoy, and even for that his Majesty did not consider the cre-
dentials as entirely satisfactory. Although he had boasted of
being not only an ambassador, but also a prime minister, he
might be a merchant, who, the better to succeed in his traffic,
had disguised himself as an ambassador. But granting that he
had really been dispatched by the Czar, and that he was in fact
his ambassador, yet he ought not on this account to be so pre-
sumptuous, nor insist upon presenting his letter with his own
hands, as one familiar friend would to another, without observing
any of those ceremonies which in China are indispensable, as

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 119

must have been known not only to him, but to the Czar also.
In this manner it was impossible that he should ever attain the
object of his embassy."

Such was the purport of this imperial manifesto, which con-
cluded by directing that, as the conduct of the ambassador was
so suspicious, the Foreign Office should make strict inquiries
into the matter, and exact from him detailed explanations on
every point.

When the translation was completed, the eunuch asked us
whether the ambassador and the gentlemen of his suite under-
stood the Latin language, and as we replied that they did but
very little, he then desired me to make it in Italian. Fearing
that Count Ismailof might suspect that I had some share in the
invectives contained in the decree, and excite the Czar's hatred
against the Propaganda, in whose service I was, I replied that
the ambassador was better acquainted with the French than with
Italian. Upon this the eunuch immediately ordered that the
translation should be executed in the French lano;uao^e, and the
task was accordingly confided to Father Parrenin. It was for-
tunate for me that he relieved me from this duty, as Count
Ismailof actually conceived suspicions of the other interpreters,
but never of myself. Had this been otherwise, it vv^ould have
grieved me much, for afterwards he was recommended to me by
the Bishop of Peking in the name of the Propaganda.

The French translation of the imperial decree, together with
the original copy in Tartar characters, was conveyed by the
mandarins to the ambassador without the aid of the interpreter.
I was, however, informed that he did not appear in the least sur-
prised at the blame thus bestowed upon him, and that he again
expressed his determination not to make the required prostra-
tions, and to present the letter with his own hands.

The mandarins returned to the ambassador with an answer,
also written by the Emperor himself, but with more condescen-
sion, and in the name of the government. Count Ismailof
again declared, in the same manner, that he would not make the
prostrations, and demanded permission to place the Czar's letter
himself in the hands of the Emperor.

His Majesty perceiving that the ambassador firmly persisted

120 ' FATHER RiFA'S RESIDENCE

in this resolution, no longer corresponded with him in the name
of the government, but sent several mandarins, accompanied by
interpreters, of whom I was one, immediately from himself. We
stated that the Emperor considered the family of the Czar as his
own, and that the Czar's honor was equally dear to his Majesty,
with many other similar expressions, which were made to bear
upon the pending question. We added, that whenever he should
send an ambassador to the Czar, he promised that his represent-
ative should stand uncovered before him, although in China none
but condemned criminals exposed their heads bare, and should
perform all the other ceremonies customary at Moscow. No
sooner had we arrived at these words, than the chief mandarin
instantly took off his cap before the ambassador ; and the latter
being thus satisfied, promised to perform the prostrations accord-
ing to Chinese custom, and also to place the letter upon the table
in sight of the Emperor sitting on his throne, so that one of the
courtiers might afterwards convey it to his Majesty. The man-
darin farther stated, that the ambassador had the imperial per-
mission to repair to the gate of the palace in the same state as
he had entered Peking, namely, with drawn swords, music, and
other distinctions. After this. Count Ismailof endeavored to
justify his conduct, and produced the original instructions con-
fided to him by the Czar, in which, among other things, he was
commanded not to perform the prostrations, and to insist on de-
livering the letter himself into the hands of the Emperor. It
was finally arranged that the ceremony should take place on the
9th of the same month.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. i2i

CHAPTER XX.

Reception of Count Ismailof — Court Dinner — Eulogy of the European Mis-
sionaries— Presents — The Emperor's Advice to the Czar.

Ox tlie appointed day Count Ismailof went to the palace to
present the letter to the Emperor, with the usual ceremonies and
prostrations, as had been agreed ; and the presentation took place
in the manner which I am about to describe.

After the ambassador and the ninety men of his suite had been
kept waiting a good while in the open vestibule of the Great
Audience Hall, the Emperor entered it, followed by the principal
officers of state, and mounted his magnificent throne by some
steps on the left, while every one else ascended on the right.
His Majesty took his place in a chair gorgeously decorated, hav-
ing on his right three of his sons seated upon cushions, and a lit-
tle farther off, the halberdiers, pages, eunuchs, chief courtiers,
and ourselves, all standing ; we interpreters wearing the dress
and insignia of great mandarins. At the foot of the throne, on
the floor of the Great Hall, sat upon cushions, in distinct rows,
the first mandarins of the empire, the Koong-yeh, or lords of the
imperial family, and many other mandarins of inferior rank. Be-
fore ihe throne, near the entrance of the Great Hall, stood a table
prepared with sweetmeats for his Majesty. In the open vesti-
bule, which was a few steps lower than the Great Hall, there
was another table, beyond v/hich Count Ismailof was standing.
According to Chin se etiquette, the ambassador should have placed
the letter upon this table, kneeling down in the vestibule ; but
the Emperor ordered that the table should be brought into the
Audience Hall, and that the ambassador should also advance,
which was a mark of great honor.

Count Ismailof then entered, and immediately prostrated him-
self before the table, holding up the Czar's letter with both hands.
The Emperor, who had at first behaved graciously to Ismailof,

122 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

now thought proper to mortify him, by making him remain some
time in this particular posture. The proud Russian was indig-
nant at this treatment, and gave unequivocal signs of resentment
by certain motions of his mouth, and by turning his head aside,
which under such circumstances was very unseemly. Hereupon
his Majesty prudently requested that the ambassador himself
should take up the letter to him, and when Count Ismailof did
so, kneeling down at his feet, he received it with his owm hands,
thus giving him another mark of regard, and granting what he
had previously refused.

After the presentation of the letter, the ambassador, attended
by the master of the ceremonies, returned to his former place in
the open vestibule. Shortly after, he moved to the centre oppo-
site the chair in which the Emperor was sitting ; behind him
stood his principal attendants, and further back a number of
soldiers and servants.

When all present were thus marshalled in due order, at par-
ticular signals given by the master in chief of the ceremonies,
they all went down upon their knees, and after the lapse of a
few minutes, beat their heads thrice to the ground. After this
all arose upon their feet, then again kneeled down and prostrated
themselves three times. In this manner they kneeled thrice, and
performed nine prostrations.

The ambassador was then conducted again to the Emperor's
feet, and was asked by his Majesty, through us interpreters, who
were standing, what request he had to make. Count Ismailof
answ^ered in the French language, that the Czar had sent him to
inquire after the health of his Majesty, and to confirm the
friendly relations that existed between them ; and that he him-
self also took the liberty of inquiring after the state of his
Majesty's health.

To these inquiries the Emperor replied in a very courteous
manner ; and then added, that it being a feast-day, it would not
be proper to discuss business, for which an audience would be
granted at another opportunity. He then commanded Count
Ismailof and his attendants to be seated. The ambassador was
then permitted to sit down upon a low cushion at the end of the
row in which were the Koong-yeh, as mentioned above, and four

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 123

of his principal attendants were placed behind him at the ex-
tremity of the next row. All his other followers were directed
to remain in the vestibule. When they were all seated, his
Majesty began to speak, addressing his discourse to the ambas-
sador, and said that he was not to be surprised at seeing the
European missionaries of our party habited in the dress and de-
corations of great mandarins : that we were not mandarins, but
only apparelled as such by his command, so that we might take
part in the ceremony, to which none but persons in that costume
could be admitted ; but that although we were not mandarins, it
was not to be inferred that we were unworthy of such distinc-
tion, but merely unwilling to be elevated to this dignity, as well
as other honors, Avhich he would otherwise gladly have bestowed.
He also wished the ambassador not to feel surprised at our being
placed nearer to the throne than himself, or the great manda-
rins and lords, as ours was an exceptional place, granted only
for that particular occasion, while that occupied by Ismailof was
in the rank of his own grandees. He moreover desired him to
understand that we Europeans were not residing at Peking by
force or constraint, like prisoners of v/ar, and so brought to the
capital, but that we had come from distant countries of our ovv^n
free-will to offer him our services ; and that even on that day
w^e had assisted him as interpreters not by command, but merely
by invitation. He lastly declared, that during the whole of his
reign we had committed no fault deserving even a reprimand ;
and that he gave us such marks of his affection because he
w^ished to gain ours. His Majesty was pleased on that day to
say from his throne these and many other things in praise of the
Europeans, not only for the information of the ambassador, but
also to justify himself before his courtiers, who were astonished
to see us so highly honored.

When the Emperor had finished his eulogy of the Europeans,
he put many questions to the ambassador upon various subjects.
After these he called him to the throne, and with his own hands
gave him some wine in a gold cup, an act of condescension which
he also bestowed on his four principal attendants above-men-
tioned. He then commanded his great officers of state to sum-
mon the remaining persons composing the ambassador's suite to

124 FATHER FJPA'S RESIDENCE

the door of the Great Hall, in parties of five, and to serve them
with drink. In the mean time a table of sweetmeats was con-
veyed to the ambassador, and then another upon which were
dishes from the Emperor's own table. As all the company were
seated in the Tartar fashion, that is, with the legs crossed, and
upon very low cushions, the tables were scarcely a foot high.
All those who were seated on the floor of the Great Hall, as
well as ourselves, were each furnished with a little table, and
thus we all ate and drank, his Majesty continuing on the throne.

During the repast, the Emperor ordered his musicians to play
and sing in the Chinese fashion ; and after this two youths were
introduced, who danced with so much elegance, that we Euro-
peans were much astonished at the performance. In the vesti-
bule, where the ambassador's suite was entertained, the same
kind of amusements were provided ; and after two hours had
been thus passed, the Emperor retired, and we proceeded to an-
other part of the palace to join the other Europeans. Here we
all prostrated ourselves before the mandarins, and returned thanks
to his Majesty for the honor he had done us by the great eulogy
above mentioned. His Majesty sent a message to us by the
eunuch Ching-foo, importing that he had thus spoken in our favor
in order, by making our good qualities generally known, to palli-
ate any thing of a contrary nature : and that although he had
punished Pedrini, that fact must be considered as a family trans-
action, for he had behaved towards him as a father to his son,
without any publicity.

On the following morning the Emperor sent a dinner to the
ambassador and the whole of his suite ; and as his Majesty was
at Chan-choon-yuen, and the ambassador at Peking, we were
obliged to perform a journey of three hours on horseback. The
eunuch put so many questions to the ambassador, partly by com-
mand and partly to satisfy his own curiosity, that we were de-
tained till three o'clock in the afternoon. We then returned to
the palace at a gallop ; and as I had not yet broken my fast, I
found myself so weak, that it was with great difficulty I could
keep my seat upon the horse. This kind of hardship I experi-
enced very often, but I only mention it to show the kind of hon-
orable galley-slaves we were at the imperial court.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. I'i5

Upon a certain day appointed for the purpose, the ambassador
presented the gifts sent by his sovereign : consisting of two
watches studded with diamonds ; a clock in a case of crystal,
containing a portrait of the Czar, (which was not at all relished
by the Chinese, who did not like to see the portrait of the Czar
thus publicly exhibited ;) a beautiful casket, likewise adorned
with crystal ; eight large mirrors ; some cases of mathematical
instruments ; a large hemisphere ; a level ; a microscope ; some
telescopes ; a hundred sable skins ; the same number of ermine
and of fox ; and some articles turned by the Czar himself. His
Majesty accepted all these presents, which, as I said elsewhere,
was a mark of especial honor ; and gave the ambassador, and
each of his four principal attendants, an enamelled snuff-box,
made in his imperial manufactory.

When the Emperor had accepted these presents, the ambas-
sador and two gentlemen of his suite were again received by
his Majesty in his private apartments, where, after performing
the usual prostrations, they were again invited to a repast, of
which we interpreters were also allowed to partake. Upon this
the conversation turned exclusively on the peace which it was
expedient to preserve between the two monarchies, during which
the Emperor repeatedly commanded the Russians to listen in
silence, and to write in their language what he was going to say,
so that they might report it to their master. He likewise or-
dered the Tartars to record it in their language, and us Europe-
ans m ours, and to furnish the ambassador with an accurate
translation, that he might carry to his sovereign the important
piece of advice he wished to send him. His Majesty then be-
gan to speak, and after a bombastic preamble, said that the peace
and welfare of the two nations depended on the Czar's health ;
and that, having heard how he delighted in marine excursions,
he v/as desirous to warn him against the inconstancy of the sea,
lest he should thus expose himself to destruction. At the con-
clusion of this solemn illustration of the old saying, " Parturi-
unt montes, nascetur ridiculus mus," Count Ismailof had great
difficulty in refraining from laughter, as he himself afterwards
told me.

As the Emperor's elephants are kept near the house of the

126 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

Portuguese Jesuits, his Majesty ordered that upon a certain day
the ambassador and the four principal officers of his suite should
be entertained by these missionaries, and then escorted to see
the imperial stables. There were thirty-three elephants in-
structed» to perform various feats and tricks, which they executed
in the presence of the ambassador, blowing trumpets with their
trunks, and kneeling or dancing at the command of their keep-
ers.

The day after we returned to the palace with Count Ismailof
and his secretary, when his Majesty gave each of them a superb
dress of sables, a vase of fine metal, and two glasses of wine.

The ambassador was also invited to dine at the residence of
the French Jesuits, who gave him a sumptuous entertainment,
enlivened by the best music to be found in those parts, which is
not at all disagreeable to the ear ; this was followed by dances,
and tricks of legerdemain, which excited the admiration of all
the company.

On the 13th of March, 1721, Count Ismailof departed with
his train from Peking on his way back to Moscow, taking with
him many valuable presents sent by the Emperor to the Czar.
As my attention was then engrossed by other matters, I will not
attempt to describe these presents, or any other transaction of
the embassy, lest I should commit any error. I will only add
one incident, which may perhaps give an idea of the immense
wealth of the Chinese monarch. One day I was commanded to
show to the ambassador and some of his attendants his Majesty's
collection of clocks and watches. On entering the room, Count
Ismailof was so astonished at the number and variety of these
articles displayed before him, that he suspected they were counter-
feit. I then requested him to take some of them in his hand,
and having done so, he was surprised to find them all perfect.
But his astonishment increased still more when I told him that
all the clocks and watches he now saw were intended for pres-
ents, and that his Majesty possessed a still greater number, placed
in various parts of his palaces for his own use.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 127

CHAPTER XXI.

The Emperor in Bed — Life at Je-hol — A quid pro quo — Hard Living — Illne&s

of Scipel.

During the stay of the Russian embassy in Peking, Dr. Volta,
a Milanese priest and physician, arrived at Chan-choon-yuen,
and I was summoned to accompany him when he was intro-
duced to the Emperor. After asking him a few questions, his
Majesty commanded him to feel his pulse. Dr. Volta imme-
diately obeyed, but remarked that, in order to form a correct
opinion of the state of his Majesty's health, he must feel his pulse
on that evening and the next morning. This being therefore
repeated when the Emperor went to bed, and then again before
he arose, the physician pronounced him to be in an excellent
state of health. I observed on this occasion that his Majesty's
bed was wide enough to contain five or six persons, and had no
sheets. The upper part of the mattress, as well as the under
part of the quilt, was lined with lambs'-skin, and the Emperor
slept between these, without wearing any night-clothes. As it
seldom happens that an Emperor is seen in bed by strangers,
he said to us, " You are foreigners, and yet you see me in bed."
We replied that we had that honor because his Majesty treated
us as his sons ; whereupon he added, " I consider you as mem-
bers of my own house, and very near relatives."

The life to which I was doomed this year, when we went to
Je-hol, was quite that of a prisoner. The Emperor being much
pleased with Scipel's sculptures, thought proper, lest the artist
should work for any one else by stealth, to shut him up in his
inner palace, appointing me to be his interpreter. The outer
palace, to which the Emperor repaired on certain days of the
week for the transaction of business, had a guard of soldiers, and
was open to all the officers of state • but the iimer one, con-
taining his Majesty's seraglio, was guarded by eunuchs, and even
sons and nephews of the Emperor were excluded. If by any

128 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

accident a stranger was required to enter it, he could only do so
under the escort of twenty eunuchs, who took every possible pre-
caution to prevent him from seeing any of the female inmates.

According to a custom strictly observed in China, the Empe-
ror cannot inhabit the apartments which were occupied by his
parents, nor use the throne of his predecessor ; and as his Ma-
jesty's mother had died a few years before, Scipel and I were
commanded to take possession of her empty house. It consisted
of a small parlor, and a few other apartments ; and was built
within a small garden, at the top of a delightful little promontory,
which commanded a lake of some extent. By bringing the water
of the river which flows close by Je-hol into his gardens, the
Emperor had formed the lake, and a number of canals, which
Avere plentifully stocked with fresh-water fish.

On the other side of the lake there was a cottage opposite to
our own, whither his Majesty often retired to study, accompanied
by some of his concubines. As the windows in China are as
high and broad as the rooms themselves, and in summer are kept
wide open on account of the heat, through the holes in ours,
which were framed with paper, I saw the Emperor employed in
reading or writing, while these wretched women remained sitting
upon cushions, as silent as novices. Through these holes I also
observed the eunuchs while they were engaged in various w^ays
of fishing. His Majesty would then sit in a superb little boat,
with five or six concubines at his feet, some Tartar and others
Chinese ; all dressed in their national costumes. The boat was
always followed by many others, all loaded with ladies.

When the Emperor's presence was required in the outer pal-
ace on some business, he generally went by water ; and, as he
necessarily passed under my window, I also saw him. He
always came in a boat with some concubines, and with a train
of other boats loaded with ladies. On reaching the spot where,
by a secret door, he entered the room in which he gave audience,
he left the concubines behind, in charge of the eunuchs. I saw
him several times about the gardens, but never on foot. He was
always carried in a sedan-chair, surrounded by a crowd of con-
cubines, all walking and smiling. Sometimes he sat upon a high
seat, in the form of a throne, with a number of eunuchs standing

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 129

around him ; and, watching a favorable moment, he suddenly
threw among his ladies, grouped before him on carpets of felt,
artificial snakes, toads, and other loathsome animals, in order to
enjoy the pleasure of seeing them scamper away with their crip-
pled feet. At other times he sent some of his ladies to gather
filberts and other fruits upon a neighboring hill, and pretending
to be craving for some, he urged on the poor lame creatures
with noisy exclamations until some of them fell to the ground,
when he indulged in a loud and hearty laugh. Such v/ere fre-
quently the recreations of his Imperial Majesty, and particularly
in the cool of the summer evenings. Whether he was in the
country, or at Peking, he saw no other company but his ladies
and eunuchs ; a manner of life which, in my opinion, is one of
the most wretched, though the worldly consider it as the height
of happiness.

While staying at this cottage, I was one day informed by one
of the eunuchs, that if I wished to see a Holy Bonze, greatly
renowned in China, I had but to look through the holes of the
paper, and I should see him pass. I accordingly tried to see ;
but instead of directing my view towards the north, where the
said Bonze was passing, I looked towards the west, and I dis-
covered upon the shore of the lake a person clothed in a scarlet
mantle, with a splendid head-dress of jewels, similar to those
represented upon the heads of Chinese goddesses. To this per-
son a little boy, about five years old, was speaking on his knees.
The eunuch asked me what I thought of the divine Bonze. I
replied that it was a lamentable thing that one so beautiful and
so young should so soon have learned the art of deception ;
having already persuaded the Emperor that he knew how to
render man immortal, and actually causing himself to be adored
as a divinity by one of his Majesty's children. The eunuch,
hearing me talk of youth, beauty, and adoration, asked me in
w^hat direction I had been looking. " Towards the west," I an-
swered ; at which he laughed heartily, and told me to look to-
wards the north, as it was not too late. Follov/ing his direction,
I now perceived the Bonze in a little boat, accompanied by eu-
nuchs, who were conveying him to the Emperor ; and I was
afterv/ards informed by my friend, that the idol which I had seen

9

130 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

was no other than one of his Majesty's principal concubines,
who, being indisposed, was taking the air upon the shores of the
lake ; and that the child whom I had seen kneeling before her
was her son.

Every morning, except on feast-days, Scipel and I repaired to
our cottage by break of day, that is, before the ladies left the
seraglio ; and there we were obliged to remain till they were
again secured in their apartments, which generally happened
about sunset. During the hot months, however, they some-
times stayed out of doors till nearly one o'clock in the morning,
and then the eunuchs detained us until that late hour. We
were supplied with food from the imperial kitchen, but it was
always cold, and not being accustomed to this, we suffered
greatly.

In his latter years the Emperor had become very economical ;
and on hearing that our food was furnished from his table, he
sent his eunuch Ching-foo to inquire whether we continued to
receive the twelve taels per month which he had allowed us
for our provisions. I replied in the affirmative ; and the
eunuch reprimanded me sharply, as having attempted to extort
a double allowance ; but he was not a little confused when I
informed him, that so far from making such an attempt, we often
petitioned to be permitted to dine in our own house, according
to the manner of our country, and our prayer had never been
answered. His Majesty was soon convinced of the rectitude
of our conduct, but he did not like us to leave the cottage in the
evening, lest we should meet any of his concubines. All we
obtained was, that we need not in future enter the palace at
sunrise, but four hours after, when the ladies retired to dinner.
Trifling as this change was, we both rejoiced at it, for it just
gave us time enough to set our household in order, and to
perform religious duties which we had long been obliged to
neglect.

My constitution having already suffered greatly from various
causes, I was afraid that this mode of living might entirely
destroy it ; but though I had been from my youth of a spare
habit of body, I now began to grow fat and strong. In the
morning before going to the cottage, I ate as much as my

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 131

stomach would bear ; in the afternoon I took a piece of bread,
which I brought with me, and drank tea with it ; and upon re-
turning home, I supped with an excellent appetite. But Scipel
was not so fortunate. His constitution sank gradually day by
day, till at last a long and serious illness nearly deprived him of
his life.

132 FATHER RIPA'S KESIDE^X'E

CHAPTER XXII.

Death of the Emperor Kang-hy — Funeral Rites — Punishment of two great

Mandarins.

Early in the year 1722 I was appointed interpreter and guide
to Father Angelo, the Emperor's watchmaker ; and as we spent
the whole day in the imperial collection of clocks and watches
at Peking, which was more than two hours' journey from our
apartments at Chan-choon-yuen, the mandarins ordered that we
should lodge in the houses of the French or Portuguese Jesuits.
The resident superiors, however, refused to receive us, under
pretence that they had no accommodation. Hereupon I resolved
to seize the opportunity, and attempt to establish a house in
Peking for the use of the missionaries sent by the Propaganda,
hoping that the Emperor would not object to the foundation, or
else that he would compel the Jesuits to lodge us. I therefore
purchased a dilapidated edifice, in a good situation, within the
yellow wall, which I almost wholly rebuilt, without allowing the
French and Portuguese Jesuits to discover what I was doing ;
and as soon as it could be inhabited. Father Angelo and myself
took up our residence there, to our ineffable delight.

In the mean time his Majesty, who was at Hae-tsoo, the an-
cient country-mansion of the Chinese emperors, was suddenly
seized with inflammation. This illness is not so common in the
north of China as it is in the south of Italy, owing perhaps to
the diff'erence of climate ; for in Peking, from September till
March the cold increases in uniform gradation, and from March
to September decreases in the same manner, while at Naples
the weather passes from one extreme to another in the course of
the same day, owing to the prevailing sciroccos. In conse-
quence of this illness his Majesty returned to his palace of
Chan-choon-yuen, also called Hae-tien. One or two days after,
the Europeans came there to inquire after the state of his Ma-
jesty's health ; and on this occasion the French and Portuguese

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. I33

Jesuits, who had discovered the purchase I had made, offered to
accommodate me in their houses, but I declined with thanks.
They observed that the Emperor, on learning what I had done,
might be angry with us all ; and I replied that, though it was not
my fault, I was ready to abide by the consequences.

On the 20th of December, 1722, I was talking after supper
with Father Angelo in the house of his Majesty's uncle, where
we resided, when I heard an unusual murmuring noise, as if
arising from a number of voices within the palace. Being
acquainted with the manners of the country, I instantly caused
the doors to be locked, and remarked to my companion that
either the Emperor was dead, or else that a rebellion had broken
out at Peking. In order to satisfy myself as to the cause of the
disturbance, I climbed up on the wall of our dwelling, which
skirted the public road, and saw with astonishment an innumer-
able multitude of horsemen, riding furiously in every direction,
without speaking to each other. After watching their m.ove-
ments for some time, I at last heard some persons on foot say
that the Emperor Kang-hy was dead. I was afterwards informed
that, when given over by his physicians, he had appointed as his
successor his fourth son, Young-Chin, who immediately began
to reign, and to be obeyed by everybody. One of the first cares
of the new Emperor was to have the corpse of his father clothed,
and conveyed the same night to the palace at Peking, attending
it himself on horseback, followed by his brothers, children, and
relatives, and escorted by a countless host of soldiers with drawn
swords. The next morning I repaired to Peking with Father
Angelo and Scipel, for the purpose of going to the palace, to
show our concern for the death of Kang-hy ; but we were not
admitted that day or the following.

I have already described what I and the other Europeans had
done upon the death of Kang-hy's mother. The same cere-
monies were now to be performed for the death of the deceased
Emperor. We entered the palace with the other missionaries,
all clothed in mourning, and went directly to the gate Isi-niu-
cung, where we found the mandarins assembled. Some of the
missionaries, after speaking aside with the mandarins, followed
them to the entrance of the inner palace, where the corpse lay,

134 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

and the funeral rites 'were performed. I then observed to
Father Rinaldi, who, being newly arrived, trusted entirely to
my directions, that they were going towards the bier, but I did
not know what ceremonies they intended to perform. Upon
this Father Rinaldi asked them what they were going to do ;
and he received for answer, that there would be no improper
or idolatrous sacrifices, no papers burnt, no libations of wine
performed. On this assurance we followed the others ; and
through the gate already mentioned, we entered a spacious court,
in which we found a vast number of mandarins upon their knees.
They were all habited in mourning, and weeping ; and from
time to time, upon a signal from the master of the ceremonies,
they all at once raised such a howl of lamentation as filled the
sky; after which they performed their prostrations.

We were then ordered to kneel also, but in a place apart from
the mandarins. In this position we wept with them, and made
the same prostrations, not perceiving any thing unlawful or un-
christian in such marks of grief. During several days we re-
paired to the same spot, and repeated the same ceremonies.

When the funeral rites were over, I asked a mandarin who
had assisted at the ceremony, in what manner it had been per-
formed ; and he replied, that during the whole time the body
was lying in the palace no paper money had been burnt ; but
that, after the removal of the body to Kiah-Shian, the mountain
of gold, a place immediately without the gate of the palace, such
a quantity of paper money had been burnt that the air around
was for a time clouded with smoke. He also told me that the
Tien-tsien, or libation of wine, had been made, and had taken
place in this manner :— The president of the Board of Rites pre-
sented a vessel of wine to the Emperor, who poured it into a
lagre golden bowl ; and at the same moment the master of the
ceremonies gave a signal, at which the mandarins, and we mis-
sionaries with them, performed their prostrations. On hearing
that we had, even unconsciously, taken part in this work of su-
perstition, I was grieved and alarmed to a degree which it would
be impossible for me to express ; and in order to preclude the
recurrence of such a misfortune, I resolved to quit that Babylon
at any risk, and as soon as possible.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 135

A few days after the Emperor Kang-hy's death, while the
funeral rites above mentioned were being performed, Young-
Chin, his successor, marked his accession to the throne by an
act of justice which struck the whole empire with astonishment.
The mandarin Chao was seized by his command, loaded with
heavy chains, and condemned to die under a wooden collar,
which is a sort of walking pillory, weighing nearly two hundred
pounds. The property of this arrogant courtier was confiscated,
his family enslaved, and his concubines assigned to other per-
sons. His Majesty, in a proclamation, declared that he had thus
punished him for his pride, and for the ill use he made of his
authority in persecuting the Europeans : all which I could but
attribute to the decrees of an overruling Providence. Such was
the end of the renowned Chao-chang, who was the declared
enemy of Cardinal de Tournon, and of all Christians in general.

An end still more deplorable than that of Chao awaited his
intimate friend Mo-lao. This worthy had several months before
proceeded to Macao, for the purpose of purchasing rich and
beautiful articles from Europe, which he intended to present to
the late Emperor ; and, on receiving the intelligence of his
death, he hastened to return and offer his collection to the new
sovereign. His friends, who were well aware of the change
that had taken place in public affairs, having witnessed the im-
prisonment of Chao, and many others of the nobility with whom
he was connected, advised him to defer his return. He, how-
ever, relying upon the effect that his gift of valuable curiosities
would produce, treated their counsel with contempt. On his
arrival at Peking he presented his rich offerings to the Emperor,
who did him the great honor of accepting them all. Of this I
myself was a witness, as his Majesty, soon after his accession,
commanded Scipel and me to work in the palace. A few days
after Mo-lao was sum.moned to the court, and, expecting to re-
ceive some mark of distinction, he came with an air of triumph,
arrayed in his most magnificent robes, and followed by a long
train of attendants. He however found a far different reception
from what he had anticipated. Scarcely had he entered a gate,
near which Scipel and I were standing, when he w^as presented
to the thirteenth brother of the Emperor, who, after bidding him

136 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

kneel down, ordered him, in the name of his Majesty, imme-
diately to join the army, then engaged in war against the Tartar
chief, Tsoo-wang-ar-pat-tan ; adding that he was thus condemned
on suspicion of felony, and that he must bear all the expenses
attending the sentence. At this unexpected blow the unhappy
Mo-lao was thunder-struck ; but after a while, taking courage,
he humbly submitted that he was wholly unfit for such a service,
both from inexperience of arms and weakness of constitution,
and he therefore implored the clemency of his Majesty for his
exemption. But the prince, who perfectly understood the Em-
peror's object in insisting on such a command, replied, " Mo-lao,
thou well knowest the custom of the court : obey, therefore,
without reply, otherwise thou wilt be compelled ;" after which
he turned from him, and went away. Mo-lao returned home
visibly altered, and upon his arrival great was the fear with
which all the inmates of his house were seized, upon learning
the unwelcome news. He lay upon his bed weeping bitterly,
while his servants prepared his luggage for departure, and the
day after he left the capital for the army upon the confines of the
province of Shen-sy. When he had reached his destination he
was conducted to the same house in which one of the Emperor's
own brothers was confined, on the suspicion of having with
criminal intention supplied him with money to purchase those
presents, which were far too splendid for the means of any pri-
vate individual.

The two exiles, though shut up in separate apartments, con-
trived to correspond with each other, and to engage in a con-
spiracy, which being at length discovered, they were both
conveyed to Peking, loaded with chains. Here the miserable
Mo-lao, three different times, had his legs squeezed between two
pieces of wood, which were drawn together with such force as
nearly to break the bone, and under this torture he confessed
himself guilty, but without implicating the prince. His confes-
sion was made public, and at the bottom of it was written his
sentence of death, decreed by the Board of Rites.

This court had condemned Mo-lao to be beheaded, which in
China is as disgraceful as the gallows in Europe, but the Em-
peror did not approve of the sentence, and commanded him to

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 137

be again conducted into tlie province of Slien-sy. He was ac-
cordingly conducted thither in chains, without being permitted
to see any one of his family, or to have any of his servants to
attend him, and on arriving at the place of his destination, he
was kept prisoner in a Tartar temple for several months. At
last he was informed that the Emperor condemned him to die by
his own hands, and the executioner, after freeing him from his
chains, gave him a cup of poison, a halter, and a dagger, that
he might choose for himself whichever death he preferred, but
he left him no food. The next day the executioner returned,
expecting to find him dead ; but seeing that he was still alive,
he urged the necessity of instant execution : Mo-lao then taking
off a coat of mail adorned with gold, gave it to the man to gel
more time allowed. The executioner accepted the gift, and
went to the mandarins to report that he had not yet killed him-
self ; but on the following day, finding him once more alive, he
slified him beneath a sack of sand. After this his body was
burnt, and, to complete the tragedy, his ashes were scattered to
the winds.

138 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

CHAPTER XXIII.

Exclusion of Europeans from the Imperial Palace — Plotting — Death of tlie
Emperor's Mother — Difficulties — Final Resolution to depart.

The remains of the Emperor Kang-hy were now to be re-
moved into Tartary, to the tombs of his ancestors, and we re-
ceived an order to accompany them to a certain distance out of
the gates of the capital. But as we knew that the funeral pro-
cession would frequently stop to perform sacrifices and oblations,
we resolved to take no part in the superstitious practices of those
heathens, and not to attend. Lest, however, I should give my
inveterate enemies a pretext against me, when the head of the
procession was more than two miles in advance, so that we could
not even see their proceedings, Scipel and I mounted on horse-
back, and followed the multitude as far as the place to which we
had orders to go. During my long stay in China, I never had
experienced any thing so vexatious and mortifying as the neces-
sity under which I was of resorting to so unmanly a device in
order to spare my conscience without endangering my personal
safety.

A few months after, all the Europeans were summoned to ap-
pear before the Too-yoo-soo, or Board of the Imperial House-
hold, when the mandarins informed us in the name of the
Governor, who was the seventeenth brother of the Emperor,
that for the future, when they wanted any thing, they must no
longer go to the palace, but communicate with the Board. In
consequence of this measure, which had certainly emanated from
the Sovereign, the Europeans were excluded from the imperial
residence, to which they had hitherto been admitted ; and from
that day forward no one of them was allowed to enter it unless
by his Majesty's especial permission, as in ScipeFs case and my
own.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 139

Although my enemies were greatly humbled by the fall of the
mandarins Chao-chang and Mo-lao, yet the malignity of their
conduct continued unchanged. Their shafts were ever aimed
at me and my friends, to prevent our establishment in Peking.
Two months had now passed since I was informed that they
were plotting to compel us to reside with the French and Por-
tuguese Jesuits. They were aware that I had already purchased
a house, and that Pedrini was treating for another still larger.
They also knew that I had opened two chapels in which reli-
gious ceremonies were performed, and that Pedrini intended to
do the same. For these reasons they feared that by degrees we
might assume the spiritual direction of all the Christians in Pe-
king, and thus they labored to prevent it, by forcing us to live
with the other Europeans, so that we might have no particular
church wherein to officiate.

But Kang-hy's death brought a new state of things, and they
could succeed in none of their projects. Nevertheless, in conse-
quence of their evil practices, I was summoned before the Too-
yoo-soo, and ordered to produce in writing the names, country,
age, and profession of each of us, who were sent by the Propa-
ganda. Moreover, the mandarins of the Board questioned me
about my friends, and recommended me to remove to one of the
houses of the French or Portuguese. To this I replied, that
such a scheme could produce no good result, because, belonging
to different Orders and nations, we could not all adopt one and
the same mode of life, and that, having houses of our own, it was
neither just nor decent that we should go and reside with others,
putting them and ourselves to the greatest inconvenience. I
supported my argument by the conduct of these same French
and Portuguese Jesuits, who had obstinately resisted all the en-
deavors of the late Emperor Kang-hy to unite them in one
society. I further stated, that our object in coming to Peking
was to enter into the Emperor's service, and that while we were
BO occupied, it could not much matter to his Majesty whether
we resided in our own houses or in those of others, but that the
loss of our comfort and convenience was of great importance to
us. At that time, I continued, three of us, namely, Father An-
gelo, Scipel, and myself, were selected by his Majesty for his

140 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

immediate service ; and being without intermission engaged at
the palace, we had taken a small house in Peking, that we might
better sittend to his Majesty's orders. The other five resided
near the Emperor's palace of Hae-tien, in a house purchased by
permission ; and when any one of them should have work to
execute for the Emperor, he would be gladly received into my
house, or another which Don Pedrini was preparing. These
and other arguments of the same nature I found it necessary to
employ before the mandarins of the Board, who were not acting
by command, and had no interest in the business. They were
satisfied with my reasons, and promised to submit them to the
Governor ; and as the subject was never revived, I suppose they
must have met with his approbation.

On the 24th of June, 1723, the mother of the reigning Em-
peror Young-Chin died ; and recollecting what had happened
at the obsequies of the Emperor Kang-hy, T resolved rather to
die than again to be implicated in such abominations. Accord-
ingly I wrote to our five companions who were at Hae-tien,
warning them against any participation in the impending cere-
monies, unless in the manner that we had followed the funeral
of Kang-hy's mother ; and entreated them to attend at the place
where we had been on this latter occasion, instead of that at
which we had met at Kang-hy's own death.

After sending the letter, I went to the Too-yoo-soo to pro-
cure mourning, which was distributed to all the Europeans at
the expense of the state. The mandarins asked me in what part
of the palace the Europeans had assembled for Kang-hy's obse-
quies, and for those of his mother ; whether we had gone to the
Kiw-scian, that is, the golden mountain ; and what ceremonies
v/e had performed upon these occasions. I related what has
been described above, and concluded by saying that we were
permitted to enter the Tsy-nin-koong, and remain there some
time clothed in mourning, and seated on the ground precisely
as we had done on the death of Kang-hy's mother. The man-
darins replied, that that would do. They however referred the
whole matter to certain authorities, who decided that the Euro-
peans should go to another place, the name of which has now
escaped my memory. It was fortunate for us that matters took

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 141

this turn ; for if the mandarins had resolved to send us into the
Loong-tan-men, in obedience to our instructions from Rome
we had determined to refuse. This new trial which I so nar-
rowly escaped, was another reason for hastening my return to
Europe.

Neither I nor the other Europeans knew w^here to make in-
quiries concerning the part of the palace where we were ex-
pected to meet, nor could we guess how we were to act. Una-
ble to ascertain whether I could lawfully be present or not, I
resolved not to enter the palace with the other missionaries
during the funeral rites, but to show myself to the mandarins
after the ceremony was completed. It so happened, however,
that the other missionaries were not obliged to take part in the
rites, having arrived after the libation of wine had been per-
formed.

In the afternoon some of my companions returned to the pal-
ace, and I went straight to the Too-yoo-soo, where I remained
till they came out again. I was afterwards informed that when
they had arrived on the spot, they were required to do nothing
but to stand apart in a rank, where they remained till the cere-
mony was over, without performing any prostrations.

We afterwards continued to wear mourning, but were not
called upon to take pari in any other ceremonies ; for according
to the will of the deceased Empress, the obsequies were not
to be protracted beyond three days, in order that the Emperor
might resume without delay the government of so vast an em-
pire.

His Majesty had taken it into his head to have a fountain con-
structed which should never cease to play. We were accordingly
asked, by command, whether any of us were able to contrive it.
A Frenchman answered to the effect that two of his countrymen
had lately arrived who would undertake such a work. Father
Angelo, through me as interpreter, replied without hesitation that
he felt equal to the task. The others declared themselves igno-
rant of such matters. Father Angelo had already begun a design
to be submitted to the Emperor, when I was informed that the
fountain required by the superstitious monarch owed its origin to
the following circumstance : — His Majesty had demanded of a

142 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

certain Bonze, who was believed to be possessed of miraculous
powers, how his dynasty could be rendered perpetual ; and the
Bonze had replied that this might be attained whenever a foun-
tain should be constructed whose waters should never cease to
flow upon the figure of a dragon. Those who gave me this in-
formation, deeming it wrong to encourage such heathen super-
stition, had unanimously declared that they were unable to exe-
cute the work. I had inquired of the courtiers, who issued the
order, what might be the object of the Emperor, but they replied
that it was merely for his own amusement. Nevertheless, being
well satisfied of his superstitious intention, I deemed it my duty
to prevent Father Angelo from undertaking the work, especially
as by means of polite excuses and suitable representations he could
avoid it without giving ofl'ence. Accordingly I communicated
my opinion to Father Angelo, and found much difiiculty in in-
ducing him to adopt it.

Soon after this dangerous and delicate business had been so
well arranged, that even in the palace the fountain was no longer
mentioned, the Disposer of all things exposed me to further
trials. The Emperor commanded that Father Angelo should be
required to state whether he was able to assist in the manufac-
ture of bells in bronze, of which he sent him the models. From
the peculiar shape of these bells, and from the inscriptions upon
them, it appeared they were destined for the worship and tem-
ples of idols ; and some courtiers, moreover, told me that the
Emperor intended to place them, together with a mass of bows
and arrows, in the belly of an enormous idol which he had
erected in a spacious temple situated near the palace. I was,
therefore, satisfied that Father Angelo could not undertake such
a work without sharing in the sin of idolatry ; and before the
answer was returned, I cautioned him not to betray by his ges-
tures that he understood such things. Father Angelo listened to
what I had to say ; but as he was well informed in mechanics,
so was he deficient in theology and philosophy, and accordingly
opposed my representations upon the subject, desiring me to state
that he understood what was required, and was ready to take
part in it. The courtiers perceiving that he was determined to
please the Emperor, and that I objected, severely reprimanded

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 143

me for thus placing myself in opposition to his Majesty's will and
pleasure.

Finding that I was now entirely exposed, I freely declared
that although Father Angelo might be capable of such a work, he
could not undertake it, because our religion prohibited any par-
ticipation in the manufacture of things intended for the service
of idols. Hereupon thgy threatened to inform the Emperor of
my conduct : I replied, that being well acquainted with the man-
ners of the court, I knew what must then be my fate, and was
prepared to die rather than do that which was most strictly for-
bidden by my religion. By this they perceived that I had fully
decided upon my line of conduct ; and being well disposed to-
wards me, they agreed to report to his Majesty that Father An-
gelo was unacquainted with such work. The latter, finding
himself disappointed, became greatly incensed, saying that I had
deprived him of the honor of being employed in the service of
his Majesty, and immediately w^ent away to our residence at
Hae-tien, declaring that he would no longer live in the same
house with me, and that for the future he would have some other
interpreter.

Having again found myself in the critical alternative of either
consenting to further the interests of idolatry or causing much
prejudice to the mission, I determined upon returning to Naples ;
and this resolution was confirmed by a circumstance which hap-
pened a few days afterwards. In order to excite the Chinese
Christians to a more frequent fulfilment of their devotional duties,
I had obtained the privilege of consecrating small Agnuses for
the acquisition of indulgences ; and on Friday mornings I per-
formed a service in my chapel, during which I distributed Ag-
nuses to those who attended. Having been informed of this,
some of my opponents said, in the presence of several Christians,
that I had no authority to consecrate Agnuses, and that I imposed
upon the credulity of my congregation. My friends resented
this attack upon my character, and a bitter dispute ensued, in
consequence of which the contending parties came to my house
to ascertain the truth. I immediately produced the diploma
granting me the privilege, and satisfied them all.

This fresh incident convinced me still more that my efforts

144 TATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

were maliciously counteracted by my enemies, and scarcely pro-
duced any thing but scandal and discord. Considering, there-
fore, how little I could effect in China for the propagation of
Christianity, and how repeatedly I was exposed to the danger
either of participating in idolatrous practices or of perishing, in
obedience to the Holy word, — " But when they persecute you in
this city, flee ye into another," I resoled to return to Naples ,
not, however, with the intention of living in idleness, but with a
view of devoting all my time and energies to the promotion of
the great object of the Christian mission.

The project of quitting the post assigned to me by my supe-
riors had previously occurred to my mind, as stated above, and
had often been the subject of my prayers ; nevertheless it was a
step of so serious a nature, that I dared not execute it on my
sole responsibility. Now, however, I placed myself under the
patronage of the holy apostle Saint Matthevs^, shut myself up, and
went through a course of religious exercise?. After several days
of constant meditation and prayer, I felt p "■ strengthened in my
purpose, that I finally resolved to depart.

AT THE COURT OF PEKIKG. 145

CHAPTER XXIV.

Permission to quit China — Farewell Presents — Departure from Peking —
Cheap Travelling — Variations of Climate — Arrival at Canton — Pecuniary
Difficulties — Supernatural Agency — Providential Occurrence.

No European had ever asked leave to quit the Emperor's ser-
vice, unless he happened to he disabled by some constitutional
complaint. During Kang-hy's reign it would have been impos-
sible for me, who was in perfect health, to obtain such a permis-
sion ; nor did it appear easy to procure it now from Young-Chin.
Yet as he was still sorrowing for his father's death, and great in-
dulgence is generally shown in China to persons recently bereft
of their parents, I hoped to succeed by alleging a simJlar loss.
Accordingly, I applied to the Emperor's sixteenth brother, who
expressed himself well inclined in my favor, and advised me to
petition the Too-yoo-soo. This Board referred me to his Ma-
jesty's thirteenth brother, who had the charge of the collection
of clocks and watches, and was consequently my immediate su-
perior. The prince kept me a long time in suspense, with a
profusion of gracious smiles and words ; sometimes he even
turned aside as he passed, and pretended not to see me w^hile I
waited for him on my knees. At length I discovered that, in
spite of all his promises, he was opposed to my departure ; and
knowing the magic power of gifts in China, I took all the Eu-
ropean curiosities I still had in my possession, and sent them to
his residence. They were all accepted, which was a good
omen ; and soon after the joyful announcement was sent me that
the Emperor, in consideration of the services I had rendered to
his father, had been pleased to grant my petition, ordering more-
over that I should receive some valuable farewell gifts of silk and
porcelain.

On the 13th of November the prince made me go with him to
the imperial wardrobe, and there bade me choose any article

10

146 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

that I liked. In obedience to his command, I fixed upon four
porcelain vases and as many pieces of silk ; whereupon a con-
test ensued, the prince insisting that I should take more, and I
protesting that I had enough, nor was he satisfied until I had ac-
cepted two hundred pieces of porcelain. After this I performed
the usual prostrations to return thanks, and quitted the palace for-
ever. On bidding me farewell, the prince particularly advised
me to choose a lucky day for my departure, a choice which these
heathens always make by means of superstitious ceremonies ;
and on my answering, to the great astonishment of the bystand-
ers, that all days were alike, he observed to them, " You need
not wonder at this, for the Europeans do not believe that there are
some days more propitious than others."

As the late Emperor Kang-hy had only seven years before
strictly forbidden that any one of his subjects should be allowed
to go out of China, I now saw no possibility of taking my pupils
away with me, and consequently resolved to leave them at Can-
ton under the care of a friend. Fortunately, however, the Em-
peror's sixteenth brother, on hearing of my approaching departure,
sent me a rich present of silk stufis, two saddle-horses, and va-
rious articles of Chinese manufacture ; and having submitted,
when I went to thank him, that the exportation of horses was
prohibited, and that I wanted a special permission for the pur-
pose, he said, "Write a memorial, and state the number of horses,
men, and arms you wish to export, and it shall be granted." In
this spontaneous ofier of such a permission, I could not fail to
perceive the agency of the Almighty, for the purpose of enabling
me to take my pupils to Europe.

After surmounting various obstacles, which need not be de-
tailed, on the 15th of November, 1723, I at last left that Baby-
lon, Peking, with my four pupils and their Chinese master, my-
self in one litter, the two youngest boys in another, the other
three and two servants on horseback. The wind blew so furi-
ously, that it upset our litters several times, and it was intensely
cold. It seemed as if the Evil one, foreseeing the great good
which at some future time would arise from my little flock of
Chinese, had mustered all his forces to drive us back to that cap-
ital of his dominions.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 147

At the end of thirty-five days we arrived at Nan-chang-foo,
without rain, snow, or any other inconvenience, so that with the
exception of the first day of my starting from Peking, the re-
mainder of my journey was safe and fortunate. For the two
litters and four horses, one of the servants having ridden one of
mine, I paid sixty-one taels, which is equivalent to about eighteen
pounds. In the province of Peking, where provisions are much
dearer than in others, I generally paid for our dinner six or seven
fens, and the same for our supper and lodgings, which is less
than sixpence per day ; we however carried our own beds, for
the inns in China do not supply them. As we advanced south-
ward the prices diminished, till the whole daily expense amounted
to not more than five fens a head. The dinner consisted of a
vegetable soup, two difierent sorts of meat, and as much rice as
we could eat; wine and fruit, not being included in the fare,
were paid extra.

We then hired a boat, which for less than two pounds took ns
to Nan-gan-foo, in eleven days. On arriving at the Meiling
Pass we were welcomed by a wonderful sight. When we left
Peking, owing to the excessive cold, no verdure of any kind
was to be perceived. In about a week we began to see a few
withered leaves still clinging to the trees, and now on reaching
the summit of the mountain we found the trees clothed with
luxuriant foliage. A few days after, we came to a country
where the harvest was at its height ; and on my arrival at Can-
ton, on the 10th of January, we found a perfect spring so that
during a journey of fifty-six days we went through the four sea-
sons of the year, but in an inverted order, because we were
travelling from north to south.

At Canton I rejoiced to find that there was an English vessel
still lying in the harbor, owing to a custom-house officer having
seized a valuable clock, which he would neither restore nor pay
for. I lost no time in endeavoring to secure a passage to Europe ;
but I was told by several friends that it was not to be had for any
sum of money, and that I must give up the idea of returning that
year. Stimulated by an ardent desire to lay the foundation of
my college, I made further inquiries for myself and four only of
the Chinese, intending to leave Lucio, who was verj'" weak in

148 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

body and mind, and rather badly disposed. Thanks to a com-
bination of favorable circumstances, I succeeded in obtaining
the places I wanted for about one hundred and fifty pounds
sterling. This important point being thus settled, it was now
necessary to pay the stipulated sum, and I had no small difficul-
ty in finding it.

I had a credit on the agent of the Propaganda for about three
hundred and fifty pounds, which I had lent him on various occa-
sions to supply the wants of the missionaries in China ; and al-
though he had a sufficient sum at his command, he would not
consent to pay me, alleging that the general exigencies of the
service must take precedence of individual cases. In vain did
I represent that the money I was thus claiming had not been
earned, but lent, and that unless he returned a part at least, I
should find myself obliged to remain at Canton with my pupils ;
but he was not to be shaken in his resolution. My distress may
easily be conceived. But whilst my colleague thus faithlessly
rewarded me for my zeal, Divine Providence again came to my
assistance. A good Christian from Siam, being apprized of my
difficulties, brought me about one hundred and twenty pounds
quite unexpectedly, which he offered to lend me without any
security or interest, on the sole condition that I should request
the agent to repay them when convenient. Upon this I imme-
diately went to pay the captain, and thus every thing was settled
for my own passage and that of four Chinese.

The news of the honors that had been conferred upon me in
Peking previous to my departure, had reached Canton by means
of the Gazette, and consequently I was extremely well received
by all the authorities of the province, especially the president
of the Customs. Owing to the same circumstance, I was also
treated with great consideration by the English, not only during
my sojourn in Canton, but also at sea and on my arrival in
London.

So many and various were the things which engrossed my at-
tention, that on the following morning when I went to celebrate
mass I was unusually agitated. I had scarcely begun, " In no-
mine Patris et Filii," when methought I distinctly heard these
words, — " Have I given him to thee, that thou shouldst forsake

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 149

him ? Do thy best to take him ; and if thou failest, then leave
him." I instantly understood that they related to Lucio, though
he was not named. Twenty-one years have now elapsed, but
this mysterious occurrence remains clearly impressed on my
memory. Thus convinced of my error in not having exerted
myself to procure a passage for Lucio, I resolved to try my ut-
most endeavors to that effect. After mass, however, I was
again absorbed in multifarious duties, and my resolution, as well
as the extraordinary words I had heard, were entirely forgotten.

The next day when I said mass, and was again reciting that
part of the service already mentioned, I heard the same voice
repeating the words, " Have I given him to thee," &c., and this
time I was deeply struck with awe. I must here mention, that
I never allowed myself to be disturbed or deceived by such
occurrences as this, always confiding in a better guide, and em-
ploying the aids of reason ; but these words now acted upon me
so powerfully, that on the same day I went to the captain to see
upon what conditions he might be induced to take Lucio. I met
him in the street, and had scarcely time to say that I wished to
ask a favor of him, when the chief supercargo came up and
informed me that he stood in need of my assistance. He then
related to me the circumstance mentioned above, of a clock
valued at four hundred pounds, and belonging to the Company,
which the president of the Customs had seized, and would
neither restore nor pay for. The supercargo was aware that
the president had treated me with the most marked respect, and
accordingly concluded that I might persuade him either to
return the clock or pay its value. I satisfied the supercargo by
my answer, that I was quite ready to serve him, and if necessary
would delay my embarkation, which was fixed for the following
day. He returned me many thanks, and directed the captain to
convey my luggage on board immediately, together with my
Chinese passengers, and to take the same care of all my things
as if they were the property of the Company ; and upon this he
went away. I was now left with the captain, and by means of
the interpreter begged of him to take Lucio, assuring him that
he should be fully satisfied with respect to the expenses.

In answer to this, I expected nothing less than a decided re-

150 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

fusai or some exorbitant demand ; but the captain, who had been
present while the supercargo requested my assistance, imme-
diately replied, that I was welcome to bring Lucio, even though
the expenses had not been mentioned. I thanked him for his
kindness, and . afterwards took an opportunity of making him
some return for it. When I got home, my friends were greatly
surprised to hear what had happened.

I lost no time in dispatching a message to the mandarin of the
Customs, advising him to restore the clock or pay its value.
The answer to this message was an invitation to supper, I ac-
cordingly went, and when the business was mentioned, he said
that it had been a mistake on the part of his steward, and
ordered it to be returned. Great was the joy of the English,
who in consequence of this treated me with great consideration
during the whole voyage.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 151

CHAPTER XXV.

Setting Sail for England — Chinese in Trouble — Staying a Storm — Again —
Chinese Modesty — Mr. Edmund Godfrey — A Substitute for the Compass —
Anonymous Liberality.

On the 23d of January, 1724, 1 at last embarked for London
with the five Chinese, and a month after we crossed the Line.
Up to this time the Chinese were permitted the use of the cap-
tain's cabin, and had they been allowed to continue in it, the
voyage would have been most agreeable. But the powers of
darkness were highly incensed that a vessel belonging to their
own dominions should convey the first elements of an institution
which was destined to prove so prejudicial to their interests.
Accordingly they contrived to cover the hands and face of one
of the Chinese with a saline humor, wHich increased to such a
degree, that in a few days the poor youth became a most loath-
some object. The surgeon, who was a German heretic, and a
most determined enemy to our religion, declared that the com-
plaint was leprosy, and that it might prove contagious. At the
same time it also happened that Lucio U, who was about thirteen
years of age, and rather weak in intellect, made himself obnox-
ious by dirtying the cabin, where he slept with his companions.
The English lived, ate, and drank in this same place, and their
ideas of cleanliness were greatly offended ; and the captain de-
termined to exclude the Chinese from his cabin.

The ship being very heavily laden, there remained no other
place where my pupils could be sheltered from the weather ; and
when their clothes got wet, they were obliged to wear them till
the sun or the natural heat of their bodies had dried them. It
was fortunate that we had lost sight of the Chinese coast before
these events took place ; for the English swore that they would
otherwise have put them all on shore again. I need not say to
how many hardships the poor Chinese were exposed during a

152 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

voyage of more than four months. I was in continual expectation
of seeing them all perish ; and this painful anxiety was not a
little aggravated by the brutal conduct of the surgeon. This
malignant heretic, upon seeing the boy above mentioned in so
deplorable a condition, seriously told me several times that he
had thoughts of giving him a powerful dose that would carry
him off, and I had no small difficulty in persuading him from so
villanous an action. When he afterwards saw them all suffer-
ing from wet, he turned to me and said, " Signor Ripa, we must
throw them overboard one after the other, for it is impossible to
keep them alive till the end of the journey."

The patience with which these five Chinese underwent all
their hardships was almost incredible. Not one of them be-
trayed the least angry feeling, or expressed any regret at having
undertaken the voyage. They were always cheerful and con-
tented ; but I was especially edified by their master. He was a
man about thirty years old, who had left behind him a mother
and a wife, with four children ; I had baptized him only a few
months before I had left Peking, and though from so recent a
convert no one could have expected much, yet when I exhorted
him to be patient, he would with a smiling countenance beg me
not to give myself any trouble about the matter, as it did not
trouble him, and he knew that all this happened by the will of
God.

On the night of the 10th of April we had a tremendous storm.
From the roaring of the sea and the winds, it seemed as though
the vessel would be dashed into a thousand pieces, at every mo-
ment. This was the first time in my life that I had seen a sea-
storm in all its terrific fury. Thanks to Heaven, it did not last
more than an hour : after this the wind abated, and was suc-
ceeded by a heavy rain, which continued to fall without inter-
mission, till the whole crew was reduced to the greatest distress.
Not only were their clothes completely soaked, but the water
penetrated their chests and the cabins of the officers, and injured
a part of the cargo. I was more dead than alive, being afflicted
as usual with the sea-sickness, and feeling deeply for the forlorn
situation of my poor Chinese, who were drenched with rain and
benumbed with cold. Having desired them to join with me, we

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 153

prayed to God for some time, and in the fulness of my faith I
threw an Agnus of his Hohness Innocent XI. into the raging
sea, and it was truly wonderful how the furious winds became
gentle zephyrs, the sea calm and quiet, and the air so mild that
we seemed to be in the midst of the most delightful spring. One
of the heretical pilots, who understood the Portuguese language,
told me, that when he and the other sailors, who were well
acquainted with these seas, beheld such an extraordinary change
in the weather as had never been read or heard of, they one and
all exclaimed that the course of nature had changed, or else
that a miracle had been wrought, and he repeated several times
that he had witnessed a miracle which was the w^ork of God.
This, from the mouth of a heretic, confirmed me in my belief
that so much grace had been vouchsafed for the preservation of
the Chinese, who had prayed to that effect, through the interces-
sion of our Holy Father.

On the 7th of May the sky darkened, and the wind set in from
the northwest, threatening a terrible storm. Being joined by
the Chinese, we again had recourse to our usual remedy, namely,
prayer ; and we again threw into the sea an Agnus of Innocent
XI. The tempest died away, but the wind mixed with rain
continued to blow with great violence, the ship remaining
stationary with her rudder tied up. It is usual for the wind-
to continue during thirty or forty days ; and the ship's water
being only sufficient for thirty days, it appeared dangerous to
continue in this position till the wind changed. A council was
therefore held among the officers, who decided upon staying one
week longer where we then were, and if the wind should not
become favorable, to sail back again and winter in the island
of Mascaregna. It was really a gloomy sight to see the officers,
those particularly who had supported this ill-judged resolution,
sitting pale and mute in my cabin, and from time to time heaving
deep sighs. What filled them with dismay was the knowledge
that at that time a large pirate ship was cruising on the coasts of
that island, bearing a black flag with a death's head on it, inti-
mating that no quarter was given. Under these unhappy cir-
cumstances, I informed the Chinese that we must again implore
the intervention of God. When we had done so, not only did

154 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

the wind subside, but on the following morning it became so fa-
vorable that we resumed our course.

On our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope I was desirous, for
the sake of rest as well as economy, not to lodge in the same
house with the captain and the other English gentlemen, but
they would not allow me on any account. The Chinese, whom
I had taken ashore for the purpose of refreshing them from their
sufferings, soon begged me to return aboard, not being able to
endure the behavior of the English. They were indeed teased
in every way. I recollect that once having heard a confusion of
voices, among which I could distinguish that of John In, I went
up to see what it might be. Upon entering the room, where
many English and Dutchmen were assembled, I found that one
of them, for the amusement of the company, had been pushing
the landlord's daughter against the youth, who, weeping and
trembling with dread from such temptation, had at last crept under
the bed.

Upon my arrival they ceased tormenting the poor lad, but he
still continued weeping and trembling, and I had much trouble in
persuading him to remain on shore for a short time with the
others. He earnestly entreated that I would instantly return
with him to the ship, saying that such gross and dissolute man-
ners were too much for his feelings.

As I was well aware that before our arrival in Naples I should
have to incur great expenses, having some good Chinese clothes,
I was determined to wear them while passing through the
countries of the heretics. On board ship I always wore my
Chinese dress, and being once asked what sort of habiliments I
intended to put on when I arrived in London, where I must
appear before the Company, and perhaps at Court; I replied
that, having no other layman's dress, I must of necessity con-
tinue to wear my Chinese costume. Upon this the supercargo,
a heretic, named Edmund Godfrey, without my knowledge, had
a complete suit made for me, and insisted on my accepting it as
a present. The buttons alone had cost him about two pounds at
the Cape of Good Hope.

When we reached the latitude of St. Helena, where all the
East India Company's ships had strict orders to touch, we

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 155

sailed for several days without being able to discover the island.
As the season was far advanced, the officers at last resolved that
unless it could be found within twenty-four hours, we must sail
direct for England ; but they entertained great fears of incurring
the displeasure of their employers. Upon this I immediately
told the Chinese that at sunrise on the following day, which was
that of St. Anthony of Padua, I expected them to join me in
prayer in order to implore the patronage of this great saint.
They did so ; and our fervent supplications were not even ended
when, to the great joy of all on board, the much-desired coast
appeared in sight.

During a sojourn of six days at St. Helena, there being no
inns in the island, we lived in the house of one of the officers,
together with the captain and the supercargoes, where we had
excellent fare and accommodation. At the end of our stay I ex-
pected to have a good sum to pay ; but on inquiring of our host
what I owed him for myself and the Chinese, to my great sur-
prise he answered, that the account had been settled ; and how-
ever I might press him to tell me the name of our secret bene-
factor, he never would comply with my request. How mortified
I felt at receiving this anonymous charity, it is not difficult to
conceive ; but no one can imagine the consolation I experienced
on seeing that Divine Providence should so mercifully attend to
our wants, as to inspire a heretic to pay a sum for us which
could not have amounted to less than thirty pounds. Having
reasons to suspect that this was an act of Mr. Edmund God-
frey's, I called upon him for the purpose of returning thanks, but
he would not even allow me to mention the subject.

15G FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

CHAPTER XXYI.

Casting Anchor at Deal — Importunity of Boatmen — Rapacity of Custom-
house Officers — National Monuments — Liberality of King George I. — Of
the East India Company's Directors — Of Mr. Edmund Godfrey — Sailing
for Leghorn.

On the 5tli of September we at length had the happiness of
perceiving the coast of England, and on the 7th we cast anchor
at Deal. With a favorable wind the voyage from that place to
London can be performed in three days, but owing to the uncer-
tainty of the weather, it generally takes a fortnight. On the
other hand, by landing at Deal, and proceeding by the mail,
which runs daily, one reaches London in less than forty hours,
and the fare is only twenty-six shillings. Upon this considera-
tion, I resolved to quit the ship, in order to go and make such
arrangements with the Directors of the East India Company as
might prevent our property from being seized and sold by auction,
according to their regulations.

Meanwhile the custom-house officers came on board to watch
that nothing was disembarked ; and I was then induced to alter
my plan, agreeing to pay four pounds sterling to the boatmen who
had brought them, on the condition that they should convey us to
London within two days. As, however, they did not get ready
by the time they had fixed for departure, I determined to start
by the mail. On this occasion I met with an adventure which
excited the merriment of the spectators. The boat in which I
was conveyed ashore could not come up close to the beach,
owing to the shallowness of the water, and one of the sailors un-
dertook to carry me on his back. The distance he had to go
was about twenty yards, but when scarcely half-way, he began
to totter, and call to his friends for assistance ; and before they
arrived, he dropped me into the water up to my knees.

No sooner had we landed than we were annoyed by the sail-
ors with whom we had promised to proceed. They pretended

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 157

that we should either keep our engagement, or indemnify them,
and threatened to prosecute us. So loud were their vociferations,
that in a few moments a great crowd gathered around us. Un-
able to speak English, or even to understand what they said, to
our great confusion we were obliged to suffer their importunity
till very late in the evening, when, thanks to Heaven, there came
a gentleman, who, taking compassion on us, reproved them bit-
terly, and sent them to bed.

While thus molested by these sailors, we were summoned to
take our luggage to the custom-house that it might be examined.
In the mean time, the man who had brought us this order began
to watch us very attentively lest we should smuggle any thing
out of our bag. The fellow spoke with such kindness and
benevolence as to make us suppose that he was a Catholic in his
heart. Our luggage consisted of a change of clothes, a writing-
case, in which were several packets of letters, the geographical
map of China, which I myself had engraved, and sundry other
things of very little value. All this was searched with a rigor
which can scarcely be conceived ; but as there was no prohibited
article to extort a fee, they seized my Chinese dress, on pretence
that it was silk from China. They then laid hold of my geo-
graphical map, of which I recommended them to take great care,
saying that the King, to whom I intended to present it, would
send for it soon. Not yet satisfied with this, they also wished
to intercept my letters, alleging that they must be sent through
the post-office. Upon this I locked my desk, and gave it to
them, saying that I would send for it when I arrived in London ;
but they would not take charge of it, and insisted on my sending
the letters by post. As I would not consent to this, they kept
us in custody, while the officer above-mentioned, pretending to
advise me as a friend, recommended me to put an end to the
difference by making a sacrifice of four pounds, as else we should
never get out of the custom-house. This dispute was carried on
till midnight, when another officer came out of an inner room,
and blaming both parties, ordered them to be satisfied with half-
a-crown, which I immediately paid.

At Deal we entered into an agreement with the post-master,
to pay twenty-seven shillings and sixpence each, to be paid

158 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

half there and half in London. We set out at noon, together
with a colonel and the wife of a merchant, the women of Eng-
land being indulged with such freedom owing to the entire ab-
sence of restraint which prevails in their island.

Great, doubtless, were the favors which Divine Providence
granted us throughout our voyage from Peking to London, yet
those we received during our stay in England were still greater.
To describe them minutely would take volumes ; suffice it to
say, that these Protestants, among whom we were apprehensive
of losing the property we brought from China, showered favors
of every kind upon us.

It is customary in the vast city of London to publish, twice
a-week, all remarkable things which happen within its limits :
accordingly, soon after we landed, the public were informed that
Father Ripa had brought five boys from China, for the purpose
of educating them at Naples, and sending them back to preach
the Holy Gospel in their native country. This was then men-
tioned before the King of England, George L, one day when
conversing with several great lords of his court and foreigners
of distinction. His Majesty expressed a wish to see us; and
the Sardinian ambassador, thinking that I was a Piedmontese,
offered to present us.

We had been but a few days in London, when, one evening,
on returning to our inn, I was informed that the ambassador had
been to visit me. Being much surprised at this unexpected hon-
or, I did not fail to pay my respects to him ; on which occa-
sion he signified to me that the King desired to see us. Accord-
ingly, a few days after, we all six repaired to the palace, where
his Majesty, in the presence of the royal family and the lords of
his court, conversed with us for about three hours, and appeared
so much interested, that a certain great Protestant bishop who
was present complained to some of the nobility. At length the
King, becoming fatigued with the long audience, commanded
that the Chinese should dine at the table which was laid daily
for the lords of his court, and that I should dine with the
Duchess of Arlington, his relation. This was so ordered by his
Majesty because that lady had begged permission to entertain us
all. It pleased the King to honor us still further in various

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 159

ways v/hich it is not necessary for me here to describe ; but I will
not omit to state that, after all the property which we brought
from China had been examined by the proper officers of the
customs, it was transferred, by his Majesty's order, and free of
all expense, to the ship that was to carry us to Italy.

With respect to certain other duties, payable to the East India
Company, the Directors not only remitted them, but invited me
to their public meeting, and showed themselves ready to assist
me in any way. They even asked me to dine with them, and
sent some soldiers to escort our goods to the ship. Thus all our
property left England without incurring any expense, or suffer-
ing the least damage. Had we been obliged to pay the duty, it
would have amounted to more than one hundred pounds.

At the last audience of the King, which was in the presence of
the Duchess of Arlington, and lasted from nine o'clock in the
evening until midnight, his Majesty made me accept a present
of fifty pounds sterling.

Upon my return to London, after sixteen years' absence, I
found it much improved ; numbers of new buildings had been
erected, and the old ones generally repaired. The church of
St. Paul's, raised by these heretics to rival the cathedral of St.
Peters at Rome, was now finished; and many Englishmen,
who had never been at Rome, were persuaded that it had no
equal in the world. It must, indeed, be admitted, that externally
it displays a fine style, and is altogether of superb magnificence ;
but within, the proportions are worse than those of any other
church that I rem.ember to have seen. The body of the building
is long and narrow, with a very lofty dome, painted in chiar-
oscuro, and the whole is incrusted with stucco, without any mar-
ble embellishments. At a public audience, which the King gave
in the presence of many of the nobility and ambassadors, he
asked me which of the two churches I considered the finest
building, St. Peter's, or St. Paul's of London ? I answered
frankly, that, excepting the grand colonnade in front of St. Pe-
ter's, the exterior of St. Paul's was certainly finer than that of
the other church ; but that the interior of St. Paul's could bear
no comparison with that of St. Peter's, which was infinitely su-
perior to it in architecture, as well as in the statues and pictures

160 FATHER RI PA'S RESIDENCE

with which it was enriched ; whereas St. Paul's had neither
statues nor pictures, and was besides constructed in very bad
proportions. Upon this the King, who had resided in Rome for
some time, turned to some lords of his court, and supposing that
I did not understand, said in French, " This is exactly the opin-
ion of all foreigners upon the subject."

After having shown this newly erected church to the Chinese,
I took them to see the Royal Hospital for Seamen. This edifice
is indeed well worth seeing, for its great extent, the excellence
of its architecture, and the pictures in the interior, which Sir
James Tornei [Thornhill] was then painting. The Royal Palace
has nothing splendid in its appearance ; but if one may judge
from some parts of it which are still extant, it must have been
magnificent, — for, having been partly consumed by fire in times
past, it has never been completely restored. We went to see a
church which, though built in the Gothic style, is yet one of the
most remarkable in London, both for its architecture, and the
vast number of monuments it contains. We also went to see an-
other church, at Windsor, which is equally admired. But, as
whatever is worthy of note in this capital has been described
by writers far better qualified for the task, I refer the reader to
them, deeming this short notice sufficient for my present pur-
pose.

On the 5th of October we set sail from London for Leghorn,
where we arrived safely on the 1st of November. Mr. Edmund,
the gentleman whom I have had occasion to mention several
times, had requested me to take charge of a letter for a certain
merchant, without giving me any intimation of its contents :
having now delivered it, I found, to my great astonishment, that
it contained a letter of credit, to be filled up for any sum of
money that I might choose to demand. I was greatly surprised
to find so much kindness and charity in persons who had been
brought up in open hostility to our holy faith. However, as I
was not in need of more money, having still the sum that the
King of England had given me, I deemed it proper to decline
this favor. But as Mr. Edmund had so strongly recommended
me, the merchant above mentioned sent me a cask of wine and a
case of sweetmeats, for our use during the voyage to Naples.

AT THE COURT OF PEKING IGl

CHAPTER XXVII.

Arrival at Naples — St. January's Blood — Permission to establish the Chinese
College — Reception of two Chinese Students.

Upon my arrival at Naples I receh^ed the intelligence that the
Sacred Congregation of the Propaganda were displeased at my
having quitted my post without their permission ; and objected
to keeping the five Chinese, saying that their finances could not
even cover their present expenses. I had not proceeded direct
from Leghorn to Rome, because I knew that they were desirous
of having some young Chinese in their own College, and was
afraid they might compel me to leave them mine. I was there-
fore glad to hear that I had no occasion to fear any such occur-
rence ; and having been summoned into the presence of the
Pope, Benedict XIII., I submitted to him the plan of the re-
ligious community which I had in contemplation. On hearing
that I undertook to find the necessary funds without the as-
sistance of the Propaganda, his Holiness immediately gave his
approbation, and referred my petition to the proper channels,
that it might go through the usual forms. But as I proposed,
for various sufiicient reasons, to establish my institution at
Naples, and not in Rome, the president of the Sacred Congrega-
tion and several other cardinals strongly objected to this, on the
ground that I must not be permitted "to raise one altar against
another." After a great many negotiations, however, I was al-
lowed to begin at Naples, on the understanding that, in order
not to commit the Holy See, the formal approbation should be
withheld until my intended establishment had been set up on a
proper footing. His Holiness directed the Secretary of State
to recommend me to the Archbishop of Naples, as well as to
the government, and promised a contribution of a thousand
pounds as soon as his finances should permit.

11

102 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

In consequence of my unusual exertions of mind and body
during the three months that I was detained in Rome, my health
had suffered so much that, on my return to Naples, I was in a
constant state of uneasiness and dejection. I now despaired of
being able to find the assistance I wanted for the execution of
my project, and began to regret that I had not accepted the
accommodation that had been offered me by the Propaganda for
my pupils and myself. Having ever been accustomed to see me
in cheerful spirits, the Chinese were much disturbed at my pre-
sent depression. One day they entered my room and complained
of my supposed intention to abandon them, after they had under-
gone so many sacrifices in order to follow me. I reassured them
as well as I could ; and, to confirm them more and more in the
faith, I took the earliest opportunity of accompanying them to
worship the blood of St. January. The saint, who probably was
much gratified at receiving the homage of persons who had come
from so great a distance to receive holy orders, and, on returning
to their idolatrous country, to shed their blood in the cause of
Christ, as he himself had done, was pleased to console them in a
very special manner. On reaching the Archiepiscopal Treasury,
where the miraculous blood is preserved in a state of solidity,
we were introduced by our friends into the presbytery, where wa
knelt before the holy altar. After a little time spent in prayer,
the chaplain of the Treasury took the blood in his hands, and to
our infinite satisfaction, allowed us to view, admire, and kiss it.
He even permitted us to take the little phials in our own hands
and to turn them about as we liked, which we did to our extreme
spiritual comfort. On a sudden, while one of the Chinese held
the phials in his hands, and we were looking at the blood, still
solid in the upper part of the largest, it began to melt at the
bottom, and continued so doing until the whole of it became
liquid, when the chaplain began to chant the Te Deum. As
the Chinese were still in their national dress, many of the
crowd, who had assembled to await the miracle, mistook them
for Turks, and immediately circulated the report throughout
Naples that some voung Mahometans, on seeing such a prodigy,
had embraced Christianity. This event edified my pupils so
much, that a few days afterwards, when I proposed to show

AT TflE COURT OF PEKING. 163

them some other sight, one of them declined going, saying that,
after having been present at such a miracle, he did not care to
see any thing else.

My application for a license to establish our community at
Naples was presented by the Nuncio to the Viceroy, Cardinal
Althan, upon the special recommendation of the Pope. It was
granted seven months afterwards, on the condition that none
should be admitted into the institution but native Chinese or
others who would take an oath to go as missionaries to China ;
and that the right of presentation should belong to the sover-
eign. As these restrictions were incompatible with my plan, and
as, moreover, the Court of Rome objected to this assumption of
the patronage, I resolved to repair to Vienna, in the hope of ob-
taining better conditions from the Emperor Charles VI. I was
honored with the kindest reception, both by him and the Em-
press. Not only did he grant the exemption that I implored, but
moreover promised the assignment of eight hundred ducats a
year for my intended foundation, and a gratuitous passage in the
ships of the Ostend Company for all our students.

Unfortunately, while I was so successful at Vienna fresh ob-
stacles were raised at Rome, where the Sacred Congregation
now claimed the right of examining the professors of the intended
institute before they were appointed. To this the Neapolitan
Government would not submit, and thus three years more were
wasted in troublesome negotiations. The three powers at length
came to an understanding, and in April, 1732, after seven long
years of anxiety and vexation, my efforts were crowned with the
happiest success. It was agreed that the new institution should
consist, as I had proposed, of a College and a Congregation.

The College to consist of young Chinese and Indians, to be
qualified for the missionary profession at the expense of the
foundation.

The Congregation to be composed of ecclesiastics, willing to
impart the necessary instruction to the collegians without any
pecuniary remuneration.

The collegians to make these five vows : — 1st. To live in
poverty ; 2d. To obey their superiors ; 3d. To enter holy or-
ders ; 4th. To join the missions in the East, according to the

164

FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

disposition of the Propaganda ; 5tli. To serve for life the Roman
Catholic Church, without ever entering any other community.

The members of the congregation to make no vow ; but, be-
sides attending to the education of the collegians, to live in com-
munity, and to perform the duties of the church belonging to the

institution.

While I was employing every means to effect this important
arrangement, a great deal of my attention and time was also re-
quired to surmount the obstacles which official chicanery contin-
ually raised against my receiving the sums granted by the Pope
and the Emperor. The purchase of a house of convenient size
and situation was also a task replete with difficulties ; nor were
these surmounted until I, together with the five Chinese, offered
up a special form of prayer to the Holy Virgin, during nine con-
secutive days. All my troubles were however amply rewarded
on the 25th of July of the same year, when the opening of our
congregation and college took place with all the solemnities and
rejoicings suitable for the celebration of the auspicious event.

Some time after the Sacred Congregation sent me two new
pupils. In order that the same forms may be observed on all
similar occasions, I will describe the ceremony of their recep-
tion.

On entering our hall they were embraced and welcomed by
all our community ; I then led them into the church, and kneel-
ing before the high aUar, with one of them on each side, I
thanked the Lord for their safe arrival, and recommended them
to the Almighty, offering myself up for the service of them all,
and imploring his Divine Majesty to assist me in the fulfilment
of my duties. We next went round to the other altars, praying
before each in succession. After this they were conducted to
my room, where I washed and kissed their feet, my first con-
suitor holding the basin, and the second the towels. Finally,
their name, surname, country, and age, were entered on the
register.

AT TllE COURT OF PEKING. 165

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Examination of two Chinese Students — Their Departure for China — Death
of John In — Flight of Lucio U — His Arrest and Trial — His Evasion and
Recapture — Mysterious End.

Early in the year 1733 I informed the secretary of the Pro-
paganda that my two pupils, Baptist Ku and John In, would soon
terminate their studies, and that I consequently begged that due
arrangements should be made for their examination ; but for sev-
eral months no orders were issued. It so happened, that at last
the news of the expulsion of the European missionaries from
China came to quicken the zeal of the Congregation. Accord-
ingly, I was now desired to accompany them to Rome. When
the examination was over, to the utmost satisfaction of the ex-
aminers, the Chinese took their oaths before the Sacred Congre-
gation. On this occasion Cardinal Petra, turning to John In,
said he wished to make him a bishop, and the young priest re-
plied he would rather be a cardinal. As his Eminence looked
astonished at this answer, of which he had not immediately un-
derstood the meaning, John In, taking hold of the cardinal's
cloak, added, " When I say I would rather be a cardinal than a
bishop, I do not mean with such garments as those of your Emi-
nence, but with my own black ones dyed with my own blood,
shed for the sake of Christ." This reply was much admired by
all the bystanders, and indeed by all Rome, throughout which it
soon spread.

After receiving the Pope's benediction, and several privileges
which his Holiness was pleased to grant them, they returned
with me to Naples. In order that their dress should present
some allusion to the martyrdom to which they aspired, they were
provided with cassocks bound with crimson, and they departed
on their mission accompanied by our most ardent prayers.

This expedition excited deep interest throughout the country.

166 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

and the Neapolitan Gazette thus expressed the general satisfac-
tion : " By the latest accounts from China we learn that the
Emperor continues to increase in severity against our holy reli-
gion, and not content with having banished thirty-five European
missionaries who had been exiled to Canton by his command, he
has ordered the strictest search to be made after the very few
remaining in Peking, who had concealed themselves. We are
also informed that two of these have already been discovered.
It is gratifying to know that at the very moment when this
vineyard of the Lord is thus deprived of its spiritual laborers,
two Chinese pupils of our new college, of the Sacred Family of
Jesus, have embarked for China as Apostolic missionaries. Being
Chinese, they will not so easily be discovered, and it is to be
hoped that they will succeed in effecting a vast deal of good for
the benefit of their native countrymen."

They arrived at Canton highly pleased with their voyage, and
soon after, they left it for the place of their destination. The
letter, which gave a delightful account of their journey, was
signed by them both. On opening a small note enclosed in the
letter, I was thrown into the deepest affliction : it was written
by John Ku alone, and bathed in his tears, and it announced the
death of our most beloved John In, which happened on the 1 5th
of October, 1735. This intelligence pierced my heart. I was
afterwards informed that the death of our friend had been caused
by fright at one of those immense fish which in the wide rivers
of China occasionally spring up into the boats. He Avas seized
with fever, which carried him off* in uve days ; and he departed
this life as a pious Christian, wholly absorbed in thought of the
happiness hereafter.

During my long absence from Naples, caused by the protracted
negotiations above described, my heart had often bled at the in-
telligence of the great irregularities with which some of the stu-
dents were disgracing our rising community ; but of all the mise-
ries which for my sins I was doomed to undergo, none tortured
my mind half so much as the following, which occurred some time
after the opening of the college.

The Chinese priest, Lucio U, after committing many other
transgressions, was now convicted of putting the lock of his

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 167

room out of repair in order to prevent its being opened by his
superiors, and of pilfering nine shirts, five tunics, and six pairs
of shoes, from other rooms by means of false keys. This was
culpable enough ; but what was still worse, he spoke discredita-
bly of our community, saying that we kept him starving and in
rags, and that the moment he could get a passport he would run
away. Having been apprized of his conduct, we ordered him
to be locked up in a private room ; but, a few hours after, he
disappeared, and every search to find him proved useless. I
was afterwards informed that he had taken refuge in a village
in the diocese of Monte Casino, where he acted as curate, though
he had only received orders on condition of his becoming a mis-
sionary. To prevent his continuing to lead a disorderly life, to
the detriment of our college and of his own reputation, I wrote
to the abbot of Monte Casino, to endeavor to secure, with the
utmost- secrecy, the person of his fugitive, and to force him to
return to us, for which I promised to pay every expense that
might be incurred. Soon after, having received intelligence that
he had been taken into custody, I sent a member of our congre-
gation to fetch him.

Before three months had elapsed Lucio had again effected his
escape. He was seen in the church of the Trinità de Pellegri-
ni, at Rome, by my own brother, who, when washing the pil-
grims' feet, had to w^ash his also ; but, as he pretended to be ab-
sent with my permission, and only for a short time, he excited
no suspicion. Being provided with a pilgrim's passport, he
actually spent the night in that church, but declined going to the
Pope's table on the pretext that he was dressed in plain clothes.
He was, however, stopped at Sinigaglia, with a forged certificate
of priesthood upon his person, which he pretended to have re-
ceived from the Archbishop of Naples. He then sent me a
letter, in which, acknowledging his faults, he promised to make
amends, and begged me to procure his release. I answered,
that indeed he deserved no pity. But he had been with me from
his infancy, during which time he had cost me an immense deal
of trouble and expense ; and, had I forsaken him, he would have
been lost. Moreover, it was a matter of no small difficulty and
expense to get these Chinese from such a distance. As the fa-

168 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

ther of this new foundation, remembering the parable of the
prodigal son, I determined to send for him, and to punish his
transgressions, employing at the same time the salutary means
of spiritual exercises towards his amendment. Accordingly I
dispatched one of our brethren with a letter for the Vicar-Gen-
eral of Sinigaglia, directing him to forward it and await the
answer in Rome, which I authorized him to open, in order to
save him the trouble of going the whole journey in the event of
the prisoner being dead.

In order to bring Lucio to a sense of repentance through fear,
and at the same time to inspire him with courage, I also
directed my messenger to send him the following letter in his
name : —

" By the order of our Father Superior, I inform you that your
letter is come to hand. What had been foretold to you so many
times, both in public and in private, is now come to pass. Ow-
ing to your excessive pride you would never believe it ; but you
feel it now that ' Dominus tetigit me.' You ask for the testi-
monials of priestly orders to be saved from death, and, to com-
ply with your request, they are sent to the Yicar ; but they can-
not save you from the dungeon or the galley, being the penalty
due to your execrable forgery. You add that you are aware of
having done wrong, and that you hope for pardon from God, as
he forgives those who repent sincerely. But how can our Su-
perior, who cannot search into men's hearts, believe in the sin-
cerity of your professions, after you have deceived him so
repeatedly ? Nevertheless, hoping that the danger in which you
are, and the sufferings which you have undergone, may truly in-
duce you to reform — in order that he may not be wanting on his
part, to afford you all the assistance that a father can bestow on
his children, until by death you are hurled into the abyss, he has
not only used his interest with the Yicar to diminish the punish-
ment you deserve, but has actually offered to supply your daily
wants in this college, should his entreaties ever succeed in ob-
taining your liberation. But this is very difficult to obtain, as
you well know you have transgressed five oaths and vows ap-
proved of by the Holy See, and every year renewed by you in
our church. If you intend to amend your conduct and submit to

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 169

fulfil our regulations, do implore God to assist you in the dan-
gerous situation in which you are now placed."

Having received a favorable answer from the Vicar, Father
Andrada proceeded to Sinigaglia, where the prisoner was in-
trusted to his care, with a copy of the sentence, in which he was
strictly enjoined to return to the College, under pain of excom-
munication and suspension from divine service. Two days after
their departure from Sinigaglia, they arrived at Loreto, where
Lucio desired to confess. His request was complied with ; no
other person being present but the confessor, Lucio, and Father
Andrada. Lucio confessed with great devotion and humility, to
the great satisfaction of the confessor ; but the Evil Spirit had
taken possession of him, and while Father Andrada was confess-
ing, he ran av^^ay from the church. The sentence sent me by the
Vicar of Sinigaglia imported that Lucio had pleaded guilty to
the forgery of testimonials of priesthood and the license of the
Archbishop of Naples, and of desertion and apostacy for the
second time from the congregation ; and had been condemned
by the ecclesiastical court to twelve months' imprisonment in
the Chinese college, with power to me, his Superior, to shorten
the term of his imprisonment. Lucio's name was now struck
out from the list of members of our community ; but, having
been informed that he was at Macerata, I requested the eccle-
siastical court of this town to issue a warrant against him, pro-
mising to pay out of my own pocket for his bread allowance, in
order to prevent any further scandal, and rescue him from per-
dition. A few weeks afterwards I was apprized of Lucio's im-
prisonment at Foligno, and I immediately laid the information
before the Propaganda, in order tiiax, juris ordine servato, they
might proceed against him, and at least to sentence him to trans-
portation as a convict to Civita-vecchia ; especially as I had
been assured that he was meditating on the means of escaping to
Geneva. On this occasion I sent to the Propaganda a detailed
history of the lamentable life of this incorrigible culprit. I was
anxious that the Sacred Congregation should provide for his safe
custody, that he might receive due punishment for his crimes,
and be prevented from escaping to Geneva or China, which
would have caused dreadful calamities ; moreover, ending his

170 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

days among Christians, lie might still have saved his poor soul,
redeemed with the blood of Christ.

The vicar of Foligno informed Father Andrada that he was
under no apprehension, about Lucio's custody, but he feared
that the unwholesomeness of the prison might bring on an illness
with him, and occasion an increase of expense, and that conse-
quently to spare his sufferings he had hired a bed at a penny
a-day, whereby his daily expense now amounted to fivepence.
In answer to this letter Father Andrada intimated, that with
respect to the state of the prison he should await the resolution
of the Congregation ; and as to the expense, he observed that
Lucio having been struck out of the list of members of our
community, I was only doing an act of charity towards him ;
that consequently he should receive nothing more than the
"Court allowed to the other prisoners, and if they were allowed
a bed I would pay for it ; but that otherwise I should not.
Some time after, the vicar of Foligno informed me that the pro-
secution against Lucio was concluded, and that the documents
had been transmitted to the Propaganda. To this he added,
that both he and the bishop were anxiously waiting for the result
of the decision of the Propaganda, and that, feeling for the poor
man, who had already been two months in prison, the Court
had allowed him a bed, as they considered it unbecoming for a
priest to sleep on a plank. Lucio complained bitterly of his not
being able to live on his scanty allowance, and begged for the
addition of at least a penny more per day ; but his application
had not been granted.

At length I received a letter from the secretary of the Pro-
paganda, informing me that his Holiness had issued orders for
Lucio to be conveyed to Rome, where measures would be taken
to prevent his running away for the future, and thus dispel any
fear that he might ever return to China to the prejudice of the
mission.

With this gloomy story terminates the Italian work of Father
Ripa ; but it is succeeded by a few pages from the Editor, pur-
porting that the reverend Father died on the 22d of November,

AT THE COURT OF PEKING 171

1745, and that several persons, who in different cases of need
have since implored his intercession, have had their prayers
granted !

As the English reader may perhaps feel an interest in know-
ing something more respecting Father Ripa's institution, the
translator has appended the following account from the German,
for which he is indebted to a friend.

CONCLUSION.

A Visit to the Chinese College at Naples founded by Father Ripa.*

Close to the Ponte della Sanità, to the north-west on a neigh-
boring declivity, stands the Chinese College ; for this is the
name given to a religious institution in immediate connection
with the Propaganda of Rome, which educates young Chinese as
teachers and missionaries for their native land. A high wall
surrounds this beautiful spot ; every one, however, is at liberty
to visit the church, and the priests belonging to the church per-
form public worship there.

We went into the capacious hall, and found some men rolling
a huge barrel into the cellar : well, thought we, our friends the
missionaries do not appear to content themselves with bread and
three apples, like the monks in the Sanità. A servant pointed
out to us in the Refectory the portraits of Matteo Ripa, the
founder of the college, and of all the succeeding teachers of the
institution, as well as of several young Chinese, whose names
and the dates of whose existence were appended to the pictures.
After awhile the rector appeared, a tall, oily Neapolitan, with
mild manners — a magnificent head for a picture — who made

* Extracted from Dr. Karl August Mayer's * Neapel und die Neapolitaner,'
(Naples and the Neapolitans.)

172 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE

many excuses for having kept us waiting so long. The conver-
sation then turned on Matteo Ripa. He was an Italian and a
missionary, who just about one hundred years ago preached
Christianity in China, where he had been appointed Court
painter. We heard the following anecdote touching the pic-
tures : — As soon as the young Chinese are sufficiently instructed
to understand their business tolerably, they return to China ;
and the portrait of each youth is then taken on his departure.
Should one happen to die in Naples, he is painted either before
or immediately after his death. Some of the faces from this
reason have death strongly marked upon them. The rector
showed us the inscription under one of these portraits, which
stated that the Chinese therein represented had lived for years in
the institution, and that he had thence travelled through all parts
of China as a missionary ; but on discovery of the nature of his
employment, he had been seized and banished to Tartary, where
he died. The rector next described to me the present condition
of the resident Christians in China, as being wretched in the
extreme, the Emperor persecuting them cruelly ; he added, that
he entertained great fears for certain of his young scholars, who
had but lately left the institution to enter upon their labors in
China.

The number of pupils at present amounts to eight, of whom six
are Chinese, and the other two Greeks. The instruction is
given in Latin ; but the pupils have picked up Italian in their
intercourse with the servants. The rector himself does not un-
derstand Chinese, and the new-comers can only follow his les-
sons after they have learned some Latin from their fellow-
countrymen.

We were then conducted into another room, and a few Chi-
nese made their appearance, clad in long priest's robes, and at-
tended by their tutor, who was only distinguished from them by
wearing a crimson girdle. They greeted us in the most friendly
manner, and plenty of time was given us to observe their ways,
and to talk with them in Italian. The color of their faces is
yellow, but not disagreeably so, and their shining black hair lies
straight and smooth over their low foreheads : their small,
strange, half-closed eyes are jet black, and full of vivacity, and

AT THE COURT OF PEKING. 173

are placed, turning upwards, towards the temples — the well-
known peculiarity of the Tartar race. The form of the face is
oval and flat, the nose flat and short, so that they have scarcely
any profile. When they laugh, and this they do incessantly,
owing to their childish good-humor, it is with a grin which
shows all their teeth. Their heavy, monotonous way of moving
suits well with their round, short, and diminutive bodies : in this
they contrast strangely with the Greeks and the Italian rector.
One might almost lay these Chinese down and roll them like
barrels.

They showed us a map of the Celestial Empire, as well as all
sorts of articles which they had brought from their own country,
such as a beautifully carved wooden bowl, in which they keep
their tea ; also a charming little model of the famous porcelain
tower at Nankin, and they gave us the necessary explanations
with very evident joy. We were obliged to tell our names,
which they then inscribed on rice-paper in Italian and Chinese
characters, as a memento of our visit : for this purpose they used
a brush dipped in Indian ink. Our names, which sounded so
strangely to their ears, caused them great difficulty ; and they
were obliged to make up with letters somewhat akin in sound
for those which are wanting in their own language.

One of them read some passages out of the New Testament
translated into Chinese, which sounded strangely enough, most
of the words being of one syllable. Another opened his mouth
awfully wide, and sang us a national song to a most barbarian
tune.

The Chinese with whom we made acquaintance were from the
vicinity of Peking. They remarked to us that the climate of
their own country, although situated in a more southern latitude
than Naples, was yet considerably colder ; notwithstanding
which, they had all the fruits of southern Italy.

The rector then took us over the beautiful terrace of the house,
from whence we overlooked all the north-eastern portion of the
city. A charming orangery near us attracted our attention, and
we learned that it belonged to the institution, and served as a
garden for the pupils, who occasionally varied their walk by a
stroll through the city accompanied by their tutors.

174 FATHER RIPA'S RESIDENCE AT PEKING.

We inquired of the ecclesiastic whether he was satisfied with
the progress his pupils made : their memory, he replied, w^as
exceedingly good, and one of them showed a pleasure in and a
great aptitude for the sciences. We then parted from the good
man, with many thanks : but he refused to accept a trifling pres-
ent which we had brought for the institution.

THE END.