Mexico of the Twentieth Century

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MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

VOLUME n.

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TOLUCA. — MOMMKNT TO ChRISTOI'UKK COLI'MBIS.

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1908

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MEXICO

OF

THE TWENTIETH CENTURY

BY

PERCY F. MARTIN, F.R.G.S.

AUTHOR OF "THROUGH FIVE REPUBLICS OF SOUTH AMSBIOA/
"MEXICO'S TREASURE HOUSE," ETC.

IN TWO VOLUMES
VOLUME XL

NEW YOBK

DODD, MEAD & CO.

LONDON : EDWARD ARNOLD

1908

lAU riQhU reserved]

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CONTENTS OF VOL. 11.

CHAPTER XXXVI

Statb of AauASGALiENTBS : Area and rainfall — Indnstrions popula-
tion — Mineral reaonroea — City of Agoascalientes — Feast of San
Marooe — Chreat bathing day of St. John the Baptist — Trade and
industry — Drawn-work — Popularity among visitors — A remark-
able toflette — United States customs and drawn-work — Pablic
buildings — Governor's palace — Electric tramways — Telephones —
Telegraph — Chamber of Commerce — Education and the Govern-
ment ..-..--- 1 —

CHAPTER XXXVII

Statb of Caiipbghb : Scenic attractiona— Dangerous climate—Sparse
population — Timber resources — Exports and imports— Lack of
railways. Statb of Chiapas : Mountains and scenic featnrea—
Irrigated valleys — Industries — Tobacco and other products —
Coffee— Sugar— Oil— Cocoa— Indigo— Copper—Lack of railways
— Wonderful ruins of Palenque ... - 7 — 14

CHAPTER XXXVIII

Statb of CHmuAHUA : Population— Physical conditions— Agriculture
and stock-breeding— -Wheat-growing — Former (Governor Creel
and the Indians — ^A risky experiment — City of Chihuahua — Irri-
gation — Railway accommodation — Railway extension — Kansas
City, Mexico and Orient Railway. Statb of Coldca: Former
importance — Population — ^Agricultural resources — Some coffee
estates — Waterways — Central railway extensions — Trade and
industry — Progressive government — Improvement in financial
conditions -...-•- 15 — 28

CHAPTER XXXIX

Btatb of Coahuila: The most prosperous and progressive in the
Union — Capital invested — Mineral richness — ^Agricultural re-
sources — Cattle breeding — Some notable ranches — Cotton-culture

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vi CONTENTS OF VOL. U.

PAGES

— Some enormous haoiendaa — The Pmoell interests — Plantations
and fruit orchards — General prosperity— Foreign capital — Some
notable firms— City of Saltillo— Public and private buildings-
Factories and wages — Railways — Unique transportation facilities
— Tramways — Goyemment and education— Smelter and Mazapil
Copper Co. — Torreon— Importance of local industries — The
Smelter — Building progress - - - - ' - 24 — 86

CHAPTEB XL

Statb of Dubanqo: Physical distinctions — ^Fauna and flora — ^Agri-
cultural lands — Maguey and tobacco— Cattle-raising — Imports —
American capital— Banking conditions — Railway communication
— City of Durango— Typical architecture — Old Spanish edifices
and patios. Statb of Gub&b^bo: Backward condition — Soil
and climate — Population and industries — Acapulco^Bailways
and steamer accommodation — Mineral Wealth — Some famous
mines --.---.- 87 — 46

CHAPTER XLI

Statb of Guanajuato: Mining fame — River systems — Scenic sur-
roundings — Trade and industry — Imports and exports — Railway
communication — City of Guanajuato — Public buildings — Social
life and amusements — Hidalgo, Patriot priest — City of Leon —
Native industries — Electric -light plants — Braniff interests —
Cotton factories— Woollen industry — Charro costumes — Tram-
ways — Busy inhabitants — General prosperity - - 46 — 52

CHAPTER XLII

Statb of Hidalgo: Mining — Agriculture — Transport, etc. — Manu-
factures — City of Pachuca — Governor Rodriguez — His fostering
of education — Government Palace— Tragic history — Feast of San
Francisco — ^American capital invested. Lowbb California:
An unknown territory — Great mineral resources — Absence of
capital — Foreign trad&— Principal ports — Steamer communica-
tion—Lack of railways — Pearl fisheries — Petroleum— Value of
land— Prospects for settlers ..... 53 — 58

CHAPTER XLIII

Statb of Jalisco: Richness of territory— Sugar-growing — Cotton
cultivation — Some notable factories — Agriculture — Railway
facilities and extensions — Distilleries — Government taxation —
Governor Colonel Ahumada — Pubhc education — Schools — Life in
the City of Guadalajara— A clean and attractive city— Native

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CONTENTS OF VOL. U. vii

PAass
population — Coat of living— Plazas and public edifioea— Peons
and orderliness — Churches — Besorts — Lake Chiapas —Bibera
Castellanos— Beauties of scenery— Paradise for artists - 59—68

CHAPTEBXLIV

Statb of Mbxioo : City of Tduca— Beautiful scenic surroundmgs
— Fertility of country — Mountains — Popocatapetl and Ixtac-
dhuatl — Poverty unknown — Agriculture — Stock - breeding —
Mining industries — Bailway accommodation — Mexico City
Boad. Statb of MichoaoAn : Fauna and flora— Manufactures
and mining — British capital — History of Mor61os — City of
Mor^lia — Interesting associations — Architecture. Statb of
MoBiifOS : Beautiful Cuemavaca — Sugar production — Cereals —
Bailway accommodation — Attractions of neighbourhood —
Governor Alarcon ------ 69—80

CHAPTEB XLV

Statb of Nubvo Lb6n : City of Monterey — ^American enterprise-
Suburbs — The Monterey News — Colonel Bobertson as a citizen —
Increase in land values — Buildings and streets — Local industries
— Factories — Monterey brewery — New waterworks — Foundry—
Bailway facilities — Tramways — Public vehicles — Labour con-
ditions—Population — Native riots — Agricultural resources-
Mining — Iron and coal — Besources undeveloped — Governor
Bemado Beyes — Sensational reports disproved - - 81 — ^90

CHAPTEB XLVI

Statb of Oaxaca: Scenic surroundings — Trades and industries —
CHmatic conditions — Port of Salina Cruz — Agriculture and
Mining— Valley of the Tehuantepec — City of Tehuantepec — City
of Oazaca — Bailway communications — Benito Juarez' and Por-
firio Diaz' birthplace — Historical buildings — Improvements in
the dty — Some famous churches — A notable prelate — His
influence and distinguished ecclesiastical career - - 91 — ^96

CHAPTEB XLVII

Statb of Pu:£bla : Bich agricultural country — Cotton industry and
nulls — Mining — Bailway communication — Churches — City of
Pu^Ua — Interesting history. Tbbbitobt of Quintana Boo:
Immigration inducements — Unsettled conditions — Natural re-
sources. Statb of Qubb^tabo: Fertility and dimatfr— Agri-
culture and trade— Cattle-raising— Mining — City of Quer^taro —
Maximilian associations — Churches and public buildings - 97—106

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viii CONTENTS OF VOL. IL

CHAPTER XLVni

PAOBS

Statb of San Luis Potosi ; Spanish hiBtory — Population —
Haciendas and agrionltnre— Annual production — Great mineral
wealth — Some famous mines — Governor Cuevas — His pro-
gressive policy — City of San Luis Potosi — Public edifices —
Hotels — Lack of water-supply — Improvements projected —
Municipal schools — Local industries — Factories and mills —
Brewery — Furniture factory — Tobacco trade and factories —
Governor and education — GK)od roads - - 107 — 114

CHAPTER XLIX

Statb of Sono&a: Temperature and products — Minerals — United
States markets and capital — American trade — Hermosillo —
Sunset efifects — Labour riots and their causes. Statb of
Sikaloa: Picturesque country — Sparse and scattered popu-
lation—Agriculture — Port of Mazatl&n — Topolobampo — Land
schemes and their victims. Statb of Tlaxoaul : Independent
Eepublic — Interesting associations — Climate — Export trade —
Small population. Statb of Tabasco: Agriculture and mining
—Government .--..- 115—126

CHAPTER L

Statb of Tamaulipas : Topographical conditions — Richness of soil
— ^Agricultural productions — Port of Tampico — Great improve-
ments — Central Railway's extensions — Projected short line —
Shipping — Remarkable increase — Promising progress — Ciudad
Victoria — Governor Pedro Argiielles — Progressive policy —
Encouraging foreign capital — Opportunities for favourable
investment — Great timber resources — Beauties of scenic sur-
roundings—State's finances— A healthy condition. Tbbbitobt
OF Tbpio: Agriculture — Richness of soil — Great wheat pros-
pects — Tobacco — Lack of railways — Population — Flood
Disasters - - 127—187

CHAPTER LI

Statb of Ybbacbuz : Spanish invasion — Agricultural value — Cattle*
raising — Mining conditions — Industries and trade — American
capital invested — City of Jalapa — Interesting streets and
buildings — Freedom of Veracnus City from fevers — Port of
Veracruz — Great improvements — John Hawkins and the
Governor — Modem City of Veracruz — Some new buildings —
Tramway service — Pavements — Gt)vemment buildings — Edu-
cational advantages — Governor Dehesa and education — New
Hall of Justice — Scenic surroundings — A remarkable water&ll
— Orizaba— Hotel accommodation— Notable factories - 138—147

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CONTENTS OP VOL, U. ix

CHAPTER LII

PACKS

Statb of YuoatAn : Great heneqn^n industry — Unflabdued Indmns
— Lack of rivers — Mineral springs — Agriculture — Sugar — City of
M^rida — Trade — Exports and imports — Financial depression —
Fall in prices of henequ^n and increase of local taxation.
State of Zaoatboas: Topographical situation — ^Rivers — State
taxation — Cereal oaltiyation— Commercial importance — Mineral
resources — Gtovemor Eduardo Pankhurst — Anti- liquor legis-
lation — State pawnshops — Education — City of Zacatecas — Scenic
surroundings — Railway facilities — Buildings and cathedral —
Historical associations ..... 148 — ^156

CHAPTER LHI

Agriculture — Primitiye methods — Government support — Practical
suggestions — An example of profitable farming — Agricultural
States — Their chief products — Coffee-growing as an investment
— Cost of planting and profits made— A model Veracruz coffee
plantation— Annual production at Monte Blanco — President Diaz
as a haciendado --.-.- 156—164

CHAPTER LIV

Agriculture — ^The unprogressive hadendado — Where improvements
oould be effected— Principal agricultural States and their value—
Sheep-breeding— Averages obtained— Ox-raisiDg-The Mexican
breed — Characteristics of the ox — Mexican cattle and its principal
markets— Shipments to the United States— Goat-raising— Annual
value and consumption of flesh — Hog-raising — ^Packing possi-
bilities— The Chihuahua dog .... 165—172

CHAPTER LV

Hadendas — ^The haciendado— Life on a haciendfr— The passing of
the Mexican landowner — Ancient and modem methods of hus-
bandry — How an estate Ib worked — Labourers* wages and treat-
ment — Number of haciendas in Mexico — A model estate — Jalpa
and its proprietoi^Modem system of working— Remarkable
system of irrigation— The great Jalpa dam— The hacienda's
produetivenees ..-..- 178 — 180

CHAPTER LVI

Irrigation — ^Government and private enterprise — Ancient irrigation
system — Some projects— Lake Texcoco schemes — Land specula-
tions — Some shady American companies — Consular actions —
New enterprises — Some vast holdings — Danger of large tracts
heldby companies— Value of land in Mexico City- • 181—192

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X CONTENTS OP VOL. U.

CHAPTER LVn

PAOB

Agricultural maohinery and implementB — San LuIb Potoai Exhibition
— Government encouragement — Bice — Cacao— Chicle— Vanilla
— Fibrous plants — ^Henequ^n — New tax effects — Zocatan — Fruit
culture — Bananas — Oranges — Pecan — Pineapples — Foreign im-
portations — ^Negleoted opportunities — Chiano — Maguey - 198—201

CHAPTER LVin

Inmiigration — Govemment ofiEers — Lack of response — ^Former coloni-
zation efforts— Class of settler being attracted — Land available —
Boomers — A warning — Gk)od and bad — Peasant proprietors —
How they live — Peons and politics — Prices of land — Japanese
and Chinese colonists — Mormons — ^Boers— Russian settlement —
Yiljoen faMly — Undesirables from the East — Veracruz their
favourite State — ^Danger ahead . • - . 202 — ^211

CHAPTER LIX

The peon — His evolution and emancipation — His character and
habits — Former and present wages — Peon women — Home life-
Characteristics — Labour questions — Demand and supply —
Paucity of masons, bricklayers, and carpenters — Sociahstic
teaching efifect — President and strikers — Central Railway troubles
— Orizaba strikes — ^Labour unions in Mexico— Their teaching
and probable effects ..... 212—217

CHAPTER LX

Mexican trade with the United States — Comparison with British —
Imports and exports for 1906-1907 — ^American methods — Consular
oritioisms — Coal and oil imports — Furniture and customs duties
— Pianos — Cotton manufactures — Cement and foreign competi-
tion — Lnproving the occasion when visiting Mexico — Mail-order
bushiess and its profits ..... 218—228

CHAPTER LXI

British trade — Former position — Decline — American supremacy —
High positions and influence of Americans in Mexico — Mexican
cotton goods — Lron, steel, coal and other manufactures — Methods
of doing business — British shortcomings — Customs regulations —
Marking and invoicing goods — Mexican foreign trade — Some
British concerns ...... 224—280

CHAPTER LXII

Mexican mcmufactures — High tariffs and Protection — German com-
petition and enterprise — Candle manufacture — Plate glass —

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CONTENTS OF VOL. H. xi

PAOStt

Enormous duties — Malt factory— Asbestos — Paper-making — San
Bafael works — A successful company — The firm of G. and 0.
Braniff — Westinghouse and other American machinery —
Breweries — The Cerveceria Moctezuma — Notable machinery

281—287
CHAPTER LXin

Some prominent enterprises — The Mexican Light and Power Co. —
Valuable concessions and contracts — Mexican Government
Financial Agency— Compania Carbonifera — Anglo-Mexican oil-
fields — ^Associacion Finandera — Mexican Mining and Industrial
Corporation — Mexican Trust Co. — Anglo-Mexican Garage-
Some prominent financiers as directors — Recent and existing
British corporations in Mexico . . - • 288 — 241

CHAPTER LXIV

Bubbbb: Unprofitable enterprises — Mexican rubber — Species —
Gruayule — Opinions regarding value — First discovery — American
exploitation — Anglo-Continental Rubber Co. — Substitutes.
Sugar : Successful cultivation — Improvement in quality —
Leading districts — ^Average production — Prices, past and present
— Future possibilities — Modem methods — Old and new miUs —
Beet sugar — Prospects of superseding cane - • 242 — 251

CHAPTER LXV

Cotton manufacture— Native production — Foreign imports — Quality
of fibre — Protection against boll-weevU — The Purcell Company's
plantations — The Orizaba mills — Remarkable prosperity — ^Em-
ployees and recent strikes — ^The factories described — Varieties of
goods produced — ^Woollen mills — Zarapes and prices — Silk manu-
facture — An ancient industry .... 252 — ^262

CHAPTER LXVI

Tobacco cultivation — ^Districts and soil — Product for 1007 — Various
qualities — Flavour — Mexican ver$u9 Cuban tobaccos — Manu-
facture of cigarettes — El Buen Tono Company — Model factory —
Latest machinery — ^Wages of employees — Various brands — A
profitable enterprise 268—268

CHAPTER LXVn

Oil-fields— Prospecting— Results to date — Principal oil-districts —
Indians' knowledge of oil — Mr. Wiley as authority — Oil-currents
of Mexico— Various enterprises at work — ^Ebano oil-fields —
Mexican Petroleum Co. — Central Railway's use of oil and con-
tracts—The Pearson interests on the Isthmus of Tehuantepec —

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xii CONTENTS OF VOL. U.

PAon
Minatiilan refinery — Furbero oil-fields — W. B. Hearst's investi-
gations. Discovery of coal — Goahoila and Dnrango fields —
Anthracite coal in Sonora — Coal in Pu^bla — Unsaccessfnl enter-
prises 26^—276

CHAPTER LXVin

Mining— History of discoveries from 1524-1907— Early discoveries-
Spanish tributes — New districts opened up— Discovery of patio
process — First School of Mines — Anthracite coal discovered —
Geologic Commission — First electric plant — Chihuahua mining —
Principal districts — ^Waterson and Palmarejo mines — San Fran-
cisco del Oro— Santa Eulalia district — Deepest workings — Geo-
logical formations — Abasola and Jimenez districts — Coahuila
mines — Arauzazu copper mines — Alvarado's Palmillo mine 276 — 285

CHAPTER LXIX

Mining (continued^ : Mining in the State of Oaxaca— Long neglect —
Former Aztec and Spanish workings — New and promising field
— Ocatl&n — Peiioles — Totolap&m — San Jos^ — Taviche — Litiga-
tion retards progress — ^New districts opened up— American and
British capital — The Oaxaca smelter — A new industry estab-
lished 28e— 298

CHAPTER LXX

Mining {eontmuedf : The Guanajuato mines — The Development Com-
pany's operations — El Pinguico— The Peregrina — The famous
Valendana — The Reduction and Mines Co. — The Sirena and
Consolidated Mining and Milling Co. — The Mineral Develop-
ment Co. — ^The Amalgamated Gold Mines — The Jesus Maria—
Zacatecas Mines— Territory of Tepic Mines— El Oro — Tlalpu-
jahua — Aguascalientes — Durango— San Luis Potosi- Pu^bla —
Quer^taro — Jalisco— Tamaulipas — Tabasco — Sonora - 294 — 808

CHAPTER LXXI

Mining {conUnuedj : The mining laws of Mexico — Moderation and
simplification — Chamber of Mines — Influential management and
membership — Copper and its future as an industry — Sonora
deposits — Some shady history — Smelters and smelting interests
— Monopoly feared — The Trusts in America — Free smelters in
Mexico — Smelting process — The Guggenheims — Career of
M.Guggenheim -.--.- 809—817

Conclusion ....... 818—820

Index ----.--. 321—829

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— VOL. H.

toluca: montjmbnt to ohbistophbb ooLUiiBUs - firontiapiece

AaUASGALIBNTBS : OOVBBNMBNT PALAOB, CITT OF AOUAS-

GALUNTB8 - - - - - - to faoe page 4

TAMAUUPAS : A 8TBBBT IN TAMPICO - - - ,, „ 4

chihuahua: thb gathbdbal (ban fsanozsooX OITT 07

CHBTOAHUA - - - - - ii „ 14

chihuahua: vibw of thb citt - - „ „ 22

COAHUII.A : distant vibw of thb citt of SALTILLO - ti ff 80

DUBANOO: OALLB HATOB, CITT OF DURANOO - - „ „ 86
DURANQO: BNTBANOB TO THB PENITBNTIABY, CITT OF

DURANOO - - - - - - „ „ 42

CITT OF CHILPANCINaO, 8TATB OF GU1&BBBB0 - * ii » 60

CITT OF CUBBNAYACA, 8TATB OF M0B1&L08 - ' n it 50

HIDALOO: CITT OF PACHUCA - - - - „ „ 64

JAUSCO : CTTT OF GUADALAJARA - - - „ „ 66

STATB OF MEXICO: ON THB ROAD TO TOLUCA—VIBW I. „ „ 70

STATB OF MBZICO: ON THB ROAD TO TOLUCA — ^VIBW U. „ „ 70

BKPBB8BNTATIVB OOVBRNORS OF MBZICO— H. - - ii n 78
MICHOACAN: OOYBRNMBNT PALACB in thb CITT OF

MOR^LIA - - - - - - „ „ 84

OAZAGA: IN8TITUTB OF 8CIBNCE AND ART, CITT OF

OAXACA - - - - - - „ „ 04

CITT OF FUiBLA ------ ti ii 100

qubr^taro: principal "patio** in federal palace - „ n 106

SAN LUIS POTOSI: church of el carmen - - 19 II 114

VBRACRUZ: a street in the town of ORIZABA - n ii 114

citt OF tehuantepbc: avenida del ferro-carril - „ „ 122

A STREET IN THE CITT OF COLIMA - - - „ „ 122

tamattupas: wharf at TAMPIGO - - - n h 180

TAMPICO BY MOONLIGHT - - - ii n 180
YERAGRUZ: PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARE IN THE CITY OF

YERACRUZ - - - - - . II II 188

YERACRUZ: ISLAND AND PRISON OF SAN JUAN DE UUA - „ „ 146

ZACATECAS: STREET IN CITY OF ZACATECAS - - t$ ii 164

CHURCH OF LA SOLEDAD - - ii ii 164

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226

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286
286

XIV LIST OP ILLU8TEATI0NS— VOL. H-

OBNBBAL VIBW OF CITT OF TBHUANTBPEC

ON THB PAOIFIO COAST ....

JALPA DAM : STATB OF GUANAJUATO -

8CBNIG BOUTB ON THB OBNTBAL RAILWAY

8TATB OF TAKAULIPAS : SURF BATHINO AT LA BARRA,

TAMPICO -----.
VBRACRUZ : BXTINCT VOLCANO OF ORIZABA -
STATB OF JALISCO: VOLCANO OF COLIMA
MBZICAN COTTON BSTATBS : THB CASA GRANDE, ZARA-

GOZA PLANTATION - - - - -

THB COTTON FDSLD, TLAHUAULO ...

RBCBIVING COTTON ON HACIENDA SANTA BLl&NA, COA-

HUILA ----- - ,f I, 262

PILING UP COTTON AT AN IMPROVISED RBCBIVING

STATION - - - - - - ,» ,» 262

QUBR]£tARO: HERCULES TEXTILE-MILLS - ' it n ^^

MINING IN MEXICO: RAISING ORB BY CHICKEN -LADDER „ „ 270

MINING IN MEXICO: RAISING ORB FROM THB SHAFT

BY HORSE-WHIM ----•„„ 270
SnCHOACJLN MINES : THB FAMOUS DOS ESTRELLAS

MINE, TLALPUJAHUA - - . . ^^ ^^ 276

MINING IN MEXICO : POWER PLANT OF THB SAN FRAN-
CISCO DEL ORO MINE - - - ' yy 99 282
MINING IN MEXICO : BALDOMiRO MINE, TAVICHE,

OAXACA - - . - - - „ „ 286

THE VICHACHB MINE, TAVICHB, OAXACA - ~ )> 99 286

MINING IN MEXICO : GALLOWS-FRAHE, VICHACHB MINE,

TAVICHB - - - - - - „ „ 290

LOS oc6tbs mine, near bjutla - - - )» » 290

MINING IN MEXICO : THE BARRENO SHAFT, PEREGRINA

MINE, GUANAJUATO - . - - ^^ ^^ 294

MINING IN MEXICO: CHICHICAPA MINE, TAVICHE,

OAXACA - . - - - - „ „ 298

OAXACA MINES : THB ESCUADRA AND EL ORDBN, TAVICHB „ „ 298

MINING IN MEXICO: SHAFT AND ELECTRIC HOIST,

NU^VA LUZ MINES, GUANAJUATO - - - » » 802

MINING IN MEXICO: CELEBRATED ESPERANZA MINE

AT BL ORO ----- « M 802

MINING IN MEXICO: QUICKSILVER-ROOM OF AN OLD

PATIO MILL - - - - - „ „ 806
GUANAJUATO : ENTRANCE TO THB PENGUICO TUNNEL - „ „ 806
SAND LEACHING TANKS, GUANAJUATO - - - )> » 310
MINING IN MEXICO: PRECIPITATING PLANT, GUANA-
JUATO „ „ 810

MINING IN MEXICO : SMELTER AT RONQUILLA, CANANEA,

SONORA ..-.-. j^ ^^ 815

Map of Mexico ...... ^^ g^^

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MEXICO
OF THE XXth CENTUEY

CHAPTER XXXVI

Statb 07 AauAsoALiBNTBS : Area and rainfall— Indostrioas population —
Mineral resonroes — City of Agnascalientes — Feast of San Marcos
— Great bathing day of St. John the Baptist — Trade and industry —
Drawn-work — Popularity among visitors — A remarkable toilette —
United States customs and drawn- work — Public buildings — GK)vemor's
palace — ^Electric tramways — Telephones — ^Telegraph — Chamber of
commerce — Education and the Government.

In point of actual size, the State of Agnascalientes is one of
the smallest; bnt^ in compensation, Nature has endowed it
more richly tiian many others, and taking it all-in-all, it is not
only one of the most-favonred bnt one of the best-governed
and most prosperous divisions of Mexico. It occupies almost
the centre of a large central plateau, a very advantageous one
from a climatic and agricultural point of view. However
Agoascalientes escaped being to-day part of Zacatecas is more
than I know ; but inasmuch as the latter State surrounds it on
the north, west and north-east, it seems as if originally Aguas-
calientes had been intended to be a portion of its huge
neighbour.

The total area of the State is 7,692 square kilometres, and
practically the whole of it is under some form of cultivation.
The western and central portions are irrigated by a number
of rivers and brooks, while the eastern portion is in the hands
of a thriving population, who make the most of their oppor-
tunities. To the east and south-east stretch the plains of
Tgcoan. These, however, are the only parts of the State
which cannot be reckoned as of any great value, since they

voii. n. 22

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2 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTUEY

are lacking in water. Nevertheless many haciendag (planta-
tions) and ranches (cattle ranches) are foand there, and they
seem to do fairly well.

The rainfall throughout the State is moderate except over
these same eastern plains. The aridness of this region is in
striking contrast to the splendid river courses which are found
in the western and central portions of the State. There is,
for instance, the Bio San Pedro, which is also known under
the names of the Aguascalientes and the Bio Grande. This
splendid watercourse has its source south of the Zacatecas
mountain-chain, entering the State on the north, and after
traversing its entire extent from north to south, flowing on
into the State of Jalisco. There are also the rivers Pab^Uon,
Santiago, Morcinique, Tepezalilla, Calvillo, Ghicalot^, Labor
and T^jas, in addition to a large number of lagoons or swamps,
which, however, are of no value.

With BO much water on hand it is not surprising to find the
flora of the State a particularly representative and luxuriant
one. There are nearly 140 different species of wild trees, in
addition to 48 kinds of fruits, among others 20 varieties of
pears, figs, grapes, etc. ; a dozen different textile plants,
several classes of tanning-barks, leaves and roots ; oleaginous
seeds or berries, dye-plants, forage-plants, and a hundred
different kinds of medicinal plants. All classes of animals —
birds, reptiles, fishes and insects — flourish apace in Aguascali-
entes, the different species of birds alone numbering 68.

The inhabitants of Aguascalientes, including a large
number of foreigners, are among the most industrious and
prosperous in the country. As intimated, agriculture is the
greatest industry, but stock-raising, commerce and mining
have also their own important places. On the other hand,
mining, which at one time was expected to have shown signs
of promise, has been practically abandoned. Minerals include
copper, lead and magistral, the former being most abundant
at Asientas, and the latter at Tepezala, where at some near
date active mining will commence ; but nevertheless the total
number of copper and silver mines in operation at the present
time probably does not exceed 10 or 12, nor is their total pro-
duction much in excess of a million dollars (Mexican) in value
(about £100,000).

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AGUASGALIENTES 8

As the name Buggesta — agtuu eaUentes, literally ''hot
waters" — ^there are nomeroas natural springs to be found
within its borders. The principal of these are in the Capital,
bearing the same name as the State, and known as the waters
of San Nicol&s de la Cantera, the Ojo Galiente, the Ojo
Oalientillo and the Golomo. The temperature of the springs
in the various localities varies from 80'' to 40*60'' G. (-86''
to lOS** Fahrenheit). The hot water runs through the streets
of the town near the Railway Station, and here, in the broad
ditches, the women come to wash their clothes. Bathing
there is forbidden, since many free covered bath-houses exist,
and are fairly well patronised.

The great event of the year is Saint John the Baptist's
Day, when every man, woman and child bathes — ^in some
cases perhaps for the first time in the preceding twelve
months — ^the applicants being received and dismissed in
batches, and controlled by the police or soldiery. Another
notable day is the feast of San Marcos, observed on April 28rd,
when the entire population gives itself up to merriment and
gambling, the Mexican game being licensed for the one
occasion, and serving to completely bankrupt the greater
portion of the working population during the 10 days that it
is legalised. Servants and clerks leave their employment in
order to participate in this Mexican Monte Garlo, and the
gambling saloons drive a continuous and apparently most
prosperous trade. There is, however, no great amount of
cheating, although numerous heated disputes lead to encounters
which not infrequently end either in the hospital or the police-
station.

The city of Aguascalientes is finely built, and it is kept in
a thoroughly sanitary condition. It is also well-policed, and
statistics show that in spite of a very large labouring popula-
tion (the shops of the Gentral Railway Company, employing
some 4,000 men, as well as a large smelter employing another
1,500 men, being situated here), very little disorder is found
to exist.

The State of Aguascalientes, owing to its geographical
position, is an important commercial centre, and it exports
large quantities of com and beans, especially to the City
of Mexico, while its commercial relations with the other

22—2

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4 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTUBT

States, including the mining districts of Zacat^cas, Paohnca,
Gaanajnato and San Lnis Potosi, are of very considerable
importanca

The total valne of the trade of the State is estimated at
abont $16,000,000 Mex. (£1,500,000) per annum, of which
$5,000,000 represent imports, $6,000,000 exports, and
$4,000,000 local trade. In point of communication the
State is fortunately placed ; the Mexican Central crosses it
in two different directions, from south to north and from
south to north-east. Aguascalientes is one of the most valu-
able districts for the Central BaUway, which, besides the
heavy freights which it carries, possesses an extensive series
of '' shops,*' to which further reference is made in the chapter
which I devote to this great railway system. Although no
late census returns are available, I understand that the
population of the State is now between 102,000 and 108,000.
The chief town, Aguascalientes, accounts for nearly 67,000 of
this total. It is one of the most interesting cities in Mexico,
and is invariably included in the itinerary of visitors to the
Bepublic.

A one-time extensive local trade was carried on in the
beautiful ''drawn-work," for which, indeed, Aguascalientes
has long been famous. The finest specimens of this product
— ^the drawing of delicate linen with intricate and artistic
designs — are to be found here, many hundreds of women and
girls being continually employed either in making or selling
the embroideries. The work is very popular with visitors to
Mexico, American women especially purchasing it in large
quantities. At the present time, however, it would seem as
if the industry were destined to suffer considerable diminution,
if not complete extinction. It is becoming more and more
dif&cult to secure really good workwomen. The commercial
value of the product has fallen, and the workers find the
amount of time expended unremunerative for the best-class
pieces. Perhaps of all manufoctured products drawn-work
offers the lowest wages to the operators. An expert in the
business has declared that latter-day conditions induce women,
who formerly passed many days and months patiently evolving
and working-out a new and beautiful pattern, to find other
and more paying occupations. Women now find remunerative

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Ar.UASCALlENTRS. — Government Palace, City of Aguascalientes.

State of Tamaulii'as. A Street in Tami'Ico.

See p. 13X. 1

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DRAWN WORK 6

employment in so many direoiionB that plying the needle or
the embroidery-frame has become almost obsolete.

As an instance of the labour and care which can be, and
formerly frequently were, expended upon a single piece of
drawn-work, I may mention one particularly-beautiful dress
made entirely of this class of embroidery, the artist being a
Senora E. Leon, of Aguascalientes, who devoted nine years to
its completion. She was assisted by three hundred expert
needlewomen, all of whom were paid liberally. Originally
this exquisite costume was intended to be shown at a Paris
Exhibition, in the Mexican Exhibit ; but it was not finished
in time. Then it was proposed to send it to the St. Louis
Exposition of 1904 ; but again it failed to find completion soon
enough. The dress consists of a full skirt and long train,
short Zouave jacket and bertha. The material is of the finest
sheet-linen, the thread used having been directly imported
from Paris, and bore the number ''800." Sefiora Leon
herself designed the pattern, which is a marvel of intricacy
and delicacy. There are no seams in the whole costume which
are visible, the '' drawing " being carried out in wheels, the
effect being to give the original fabric a filmy, web-like appear-
ance, suggestive of the most costly Venetian or Valenciennes
lace. The value of this dress is $40,000 (say £4,000), and
affords an almost unique specimen of woman's skill and
patience.

Lnporters of drawn- work purchased in Mexico have contmu'
ally to struggle with United States Custom House officers, who
cannot, apparently, differentiate between ** drawn-work " and
** lace." Unquestionably a difference does exist, but to the
uninitiated in art-work the same is not clearly defined. In
the United States the duty imposed upon linen or lace is
60 per cent, under paragraph 889 of the Tariff; under
paragraph 846 of the same Tariff the duty is but 85 per cent,
on imitation or part-imitation lace. The question is — Under
which of these headings does drawn-work rightly belong ? It
is contended that it was never meant to make any distinction
between articles having drawn threads and articles in part-
imitation of lace, and in fact the words ** drawn-work " do not
occur in any part of the Tariff. The scope of the statute is
best expressed in its own words as follows : *' Handkerchiefs,

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6 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

napkins, wearing apparel, and other articles, made wholly or
in part of lace or in imitation of lace .... wearing apparel,
handkerchiefs, and other articles or fabrics embroidered by
hand or machinery, whether with a letter, monogram or other-
wise • ... all of the foregoing composed wholly or in chief
value of flax, cotton, or other vegetable fibre .... 60 per cent
ad valorem." I believe that the vexed question has to some
extent been satisfactorily settled after direct appeal to the
U.S. Government

The City of Aguascalientes owns many fine public build-
ings, such, for instance, as the Governor's Palace, the Casa
Municipal, the T^atro Morales, and the Exposition and
Scientific Institute. Here also may be seen some very fine
specimens of classic architecture, some churches containing
many valuable pictures, notably the Adoration of the Magi, by
3ob6 de Alzibar, painted in 1776, and another canvas by the
same artist is in the church of San Juan de Dios. In every
church in Mexico is to be seen the set of 14 paintings repre-
senting the Stations of the Gross, but the finest of all these
is at the church of the Encino in Aguascalientes, painted by
the same artist, Andreas Lopez.

There are two lines of tramways, wholly operated by elec-
tricity, which traverse the city from end to end, while the
telegraph, telephone and post-office arrangements are remark-
ably well conducted, an observation which applies with equal
truth to the schools, hospitals, public libraries and Chamber
of Commerce.

The great improvements which have been successfully
introduced into the City of Aguascalientes during the past
few years are due to' the progressive and intelligent policy
of the Governor, Sefior Don Alejandro Yasquez del Mercado,
who has allowed no opportunity to pass unheeded. Special
attention has been given by his excellency to the cause of
education, and in no State of the Bepublic can better-regu-
lated or better-attended schools be found than in Aguas-
calientes. Liberal grants are made by the State Government
in this direction, and the inhabitants freely avail themselves
of this opportunity of improvement. I understand that the
school attendances throughout the State will compare with
those of any other in the Bepublic in proportion to the popu-
lation.

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CHAPTER XXXVn

State of Gampbohb : Scenic attractionB — Dangerons climate— Sparse
population— Timber resources — Exports and imports— Lack of rail-
ways. Statb of Chiapas : Monntains and scenic features — Irrigated
Yalleys — ^Industries — Tobacco and other products — Coffee — Sugar-
Oil — Cocoa — Indigo — Copper — Lack of railways — Wonderful ruins of
Palenque.

Shakbspbabb has said, and said very truly, that diseased
Nature oftentimes breaks forth in strange eruptions.
Assuredly she has done so in the State of Gampeche, which,
tsii enough to the eye, is really one of the most unwholesome
States in the Republic of Mexico.

It has beautiful shores, bathed by the smiling wavelets of
the blue Gulf waters, but they cover many a dangerous shoal
and cruel reef ; it has cool and shady forests, stretching away
for hundreds of miles, but therein lurk deadly fevers and
noisome insects ; it has luxuriant savannahs, verdant lagoons
and many beautiful lakes, but in them all are the haunts of
malaria, poisonous reptiles and deathly vapours.

What Nature has so generously bestowed on the one
hand — ^prodigious growths and riotous vegetation — she has
enviously withheld on the other — ^the possibility of living
healthily, happily and humanly. With this huge territory
of over 46,000 square kilometres, there is barely one-third
of the State that is possible for white men to inhabit. The
entire population, under 87,000, mostly Indians, crowd to-
gether into the section known as the Partido de Carmen,
which is well-irrigated by several streams, natural lakes and
lagoons, surrounding and emptying themselves into the larger
La^e of Tdrminos.

The rich forests, filled with valuable woods, stretch right
down to the water's edge; but it is certain disease, and

7

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8 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

frequently death, to penetrate far beyond their borders, the
Indian alone finding safety within their dark and fever-laden
depths. Nevertheless, these forests— <^ontaining dye woods,
hard woods, palms, mahogany, etc. — ^form the principal
export of the State, being cat and floated down the numerous
natural waterways to the coast, and there collected for the
various markets which are distributed throughout the
Bepublic.

No doubt the State of Campeche contains many good and
promising mines — at least, such are suspected to exist — but
the climate is so trying and the labour available so poor and
unreliable that the industry has been almost untouched. So
far as exploitation has proceeded, copper of a good quality
has been found, as well as lead, silver and magistral, a
species of copper pyrites, formerly of value to the ''patio
process," but now of small account, since the same process
has been almost discontinued in favour of the cyanide treat-
ment of the ores.

The one really important mineral worked in Campeche is
salt, of which some valuable deposits have been found. These
deposits extend from the port of Campeche to the port of
Celestum, in the neighbouring State of Yucatan, and yield
something like 40,000 to 50,000 '' fanegas ""^ annually, all of
which is exported to the other Mexican States of Tabasco,
Veracruz, Tamaulipas, Hidalgo, Pu6bla and Oaxaca.

The State's greatest export, namely that of woods, finds a
ready market both in the United States and Great Britain ;
but rubber, of a poor nature, hair, cocoanuts, chicle, hene-
quen, prepared hides and skins, and a few other articles also
form part of the State's commerce. The total annual value
may be put at $2,600,000 (Mex.). Practically, all articles of
daily consumption — except cereals (and sometimes even these
when the rains fail to materialise) — have to be imported,
including fabrics (such as cotton, silk and woollen goods),
groceries, hardware, drugs and chemicals, paper, books,
machinery, tools, agricultural implements, oxen, ammunition,
cattie, wines, liquors, etc. The import trade of the State is
valued at $5,000,000 (Mex.) annually.

The State of Campeche has but very little railway com-
* 1 oargas2 fanegas « 181,629,775 litres, or 5,154,857 bushels.

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CAMFEGHE 9

manioation, and the epirit of foreign enterprise, which is
doing and has done so mnch for other portions of the
BepubliCy seems to be halting here. Between the capital
(Gampeche) and Mdrida, the capital of Tucatto, there is a
line of 178 kilometres (say 108 miles), belonging to the
United Railways of Tacatto, Limited; while between Gam-
peche and Leorma a street railway, with a track of 7 kilo-
metres, drags out a somewhat miserable existence. Between
Ivonchac and Tohaltun, in the Partido of Ghampot6n, a line,
measuring some 40 kilometres, enjoys a fair trade ; in addi-
tion to which there are one or two small lines connecting-up
the Gities of Campeche and Carmen with their neighboarhoods.

The principal means of communication in the State of
Gampeche are carried on by water, both the rivers, lakes
and coast being brought into requisition. The Gandelaria,
although a fine-looking river, with a length of 419 kilometres,
is another of Nature's disappointments, for, bemg shallow
and deep at odd distances — measuring as much as 60 feet in
some parts and but 8 in others — it is practically useless for
navigation. The Ghampot6n, 95 kilometres in length, can be
navigated by small craft only, while the Palizada, a very
long and broad river, can accommodate craft from 16 to
20 tons burden, having throughout almost its entire length
a mean depth of over 60 feet. The Ghamp6ton is a similar
kind of water-way, but very tortuous, and consequently
rather dangerous.

Agriculture, which could be very considerably improved
and much extended, is but indifferently pursued. Bice, cane,
cotton and tobacco and many other things would flourish here
amazingly, the climate being particularly well adapted to all
of these ; but apparently the people find greater profit in the
vast timber resources of the State, and wood-felling forms
the principal occupation of the majority. Logwood especially
is cat, and fetches very fair prices.

The population of the State, as already mentioned, according
to the last census, is approximately 87,000 ; and the figures
given do not vary much from census to census, the proportion
of foreigners likewise remaining very small, and practically
stationary.

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10 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

From practically every point of view bat one—namely^ that
of railway oommmiication — the State of Chiapas may be
classed as one of the most favoured parts of the Bepnblio.
In spite of it being located in the tropics, the territory being
mainly in the torrid zone, it possesses some of the finest rivers*
the most lofty mountains, a variety of climates, the most
fertile soil and about the most orderly inhabitants to be
found in Mexico. Unfortunately little foreign enterprise has,
as yet, found its way into Chiapas, but it is surely only a
question of time, and a very short time at that, before this
State becomes better known, and consequently more developed,
than is the case at present. Sefior Bamon Babasa, the
Governor of Chiapas, has ever displayed the keenest and
most intelligent interest in the advance of this State, and
under his enlightened and encouraging policy foreign capital
should be beneficially attracted. In the course of conversation
with his excellency, I received the assurance that every possible
protection for foreign investments may be replied upon.

Here may be met the continuation of the famous Andes of
South and Central America, known locally as the Sierra
Madre Banges. The volcano of Tocani, with its snowy head
rising some 4,000 metres into the heavens, towers aloft, its
slopes cultivated carefully and securely for hundreds of acres,
rich crops of wheat, potatoes and other cold-zone products
being raised here. Down in the numerous valleys, of which
there are several incomparably beautiful from a scenic point
of view, are grown almost every kind of tropical produce —
cocoa, coffee, tobacco, sugar-cane and indigo.

The valleys of Custepeques, Jiguipilas, Zintalapa and
Chiapas are abundantly irrigated by different rivers, some
of which are navigable for their entire course, such as the
Chiapa, 564 kilometres long, and the Usumacinta, 660 kilo-
metres in length, with a large number of tributaries, all of
which are possessed of strong currents. I do not know of
any part of Mexico more favoured than the State of Chiapas
in regard to rivers and streams of practical utility.

The valley of San Cristobal is in a different and much
colder region, severe frosts sometimes being experienced here.
It is almost entirely enclosed by high mountains, and forms a
very healthy part of the country in which to live. Here are

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CHIAPAS 11

to be found numeroaB indioations of rich mineral deposits,
such as iron, lead, talonm and ooal» while the firm of
S. Pearson and Son, Limited, of London, have established
a branch of their hoase at San Cristobal for their widespread
oil-interests, of which much more is destined to be known ere
long.

A considerable and growing trade is established between
Chiapas and the rest of the Bepablic, which only needs the
advent of more railway communication to render it of first
importance. To the United States of America, to Guatemala,
its immediate neighbour, and to Europe go the products of
this thriving and liberally-endowed State. Guatemala takes
a great amount of cattle of every description, the rich pasture
lands producing some of the finest specimens of full-blooded
oxen, goats and hogs to be found within the Bepublic. The
value of the cattle trade of Chiapas may be put at $2,600,000
(Mex.), but, as I have explained, with the advent of more
railway communication there is practically no limit to what
this might attain. Its western neighbour, Oaxaca, itself a
very fair and prosperous State, possessed of some fertile and
fruitful lands difficult to excel for richness, takes great
quantities of coffee, tobacco and cocoa j while the Capital
City of Mexico drives a flourishing trade in cacao, cheese (a
sweet and delicious kind, fully equal to the best Edam or
Holland brands), tobacco and woods. These latter, as well as
indigo and coffee, find their way to the United States, vid San
Francisco, and to Europe, vid Veracruz.

On the other hand, Chiapas is a good customer for the
products of other States and other countries, taking quantities
of cotton, woollen, silk and linen goods, wines, liqueurs, arms,
ammunition, petroleum, canned goods, machinery, agri*
cultural implements, dyes, books, printing materials, and
medicinal products. ^ All these imports show a marked
increase for the year 1906-1907, so far as I have been enabled
to obtain the returns, the figures from the principal customs-
houses, located at Soconusco and Tonal^, indicating a gradual
and consistent increase in these importations.

The State's industries, besides that of agriculture, are as
yet imperfectly developed, but, so far as I have studied them,
I may say that they embrace the manufacture of rum from

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12 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

the sngar-oane, molasses, refined sagar, hats^ mats, cotton
and woollen fabrics (upon a limited scale), cigars of a rather
poor qoality bnt very popular with the natives, soaps, candles,
tanned hides and large quantities of tobacco, coffee, cocoa and
indigo.

The sugar grown in Chiapas will compare for quality with
any found in South or Central America, or even in the United
States. Upon one plantation, 80 tons of cane to the acre
have been quite ordinary productions, the yield being 200 lbs.
of pure sugar, leaving the bye-products of aguardiente and
molasses in sufficient quantity to pay all the expenses of
extraction. Unfortunately there have been no mills for the
treatment of sugar between the Isthmus of Tehuantepec and
the Guatemalan border; latterly, however, some Chicago
capitalists have determined to erect a large mill which will
accept certain work, the locality chosen being that of Tonali.

Near by a German has been experimenting during the past
two years with the cultivation of navel oranges, and with some
good results. They have proved easy of growth, considerably
larger than the Califomian or West Indian variety, and ex-
ceptionally sweet and juicy.

In regard to the coffee produced in the State of Chiapas,
I have met experts who declare this to be of a quality as fine
and as carefully prepared as any to be found in the Bepublic,
and superior in many respects to that of Brazil. Moreover,
the berry flourishes here as it is seldom found to grow
elsewhere. Romero, the author of ** Coffee and Rubber
Culture in Mexico," published in 1898, estimates that a coffee
plantation in the district of Soconusco, State of Chiapas, will
yield in its fifth year, and every year thereafter, a profit of
185*49 per cent, upon the capital invested during the first
four years. Cacao, he declares, yields four crops a year,
the principal one being gathered in May, and the remaining
three in the months of August, November, and February
respectively. The same profitable plant may be found
growing wild and in great luxuriance on the slopes of the
mountains, and many connoisseurs of the product declare
that it is to be found in its finest state in Chiapas.

This year the harvests have been especially abundant
throughout the whole State, the district of Soconusco alone

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AGRICULTURE AND MINING 18

producing ooffee to the amount of 150,000 quintales, repre-
senting a monetary value of $8,000,000 (Mex.). The oom
crop is equally satisfactory, while the cacao crop is greatly in
excess of the usual yield. During the past few months,
several new and promising henequ6n plantations have been
laid out, especially in the district of Gintalapa; other
increases in the area planted include cacao and com.

No less enthusiastic are experts in regard to the quality of
the tobacco grown here. The districts of Mapaztepel and
Simojovel produce a leaf fully equal to that from Tuxtla (in
the State of Veracruz), and Huimanguillo (in the State of
Tabasco). A leading firm of tobacco manufacturers of
Mexico City assured me that they buy as much Chiapas leaf
as they can find, but they cannot procure anything like as
much of it as they could make use of.

The indigo grown in this State is very highly valued, and
comes principally from the district of TonaU. The vegetable
dyestuff, which yields such a beautiful dark blue colour, is
formed from the leaves and the stem of the plant — the genus
indigqjera — and nothing like it can be found outside Mexico
and the East and West Indies. The common woad, found in
Europe, cannot be classed in the same category as the
Mexican plant, which is cultivated here in the highest form
of perfection.

Among other plants found, but only indifferently culti-
vated, if at all, are rubber of a very common kind (also found
wild throughout the State), many fibrous and leguminous
growths and wondrous fruits — ^in fact all kinds, especially the
mulberry and the vina Chiapas is a veritable land of plenty,
a heritor, indeed, of Amalthea's horn.

Last June a new concern — ^the Anglo-Mexican Oil Fields —
was formed with a capital of £250,000 to work petroleum
deposits in this State.

Copper deposits have been successfully located in this State,
and at a place not far from the position selected by the new
Pan-American Railroad. The mineral is said to be of a pure
and excellent grade, equal to that found in Michigan, U.S.A.
Much interest is being displayed in prosecuting development,
one of the largest copper-mining Companies in America having
established a complete exploration party, consisting of some

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14 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTUBY

twenty to thirty expert prospectors, with assay offices and an
entire outfit. In a very short while the results of this
systematic investigation will be known ; the headquarters of
the explorers are at Esquintla. Other mineral wealth, which
ihould one day be developed, consists of iron, lead, talcum,
coal, alphalt^ sulphur, sulphate of sodium, gypsum, alabaster,
nitrate of soda, salt, yellow amber, etc., etc.

While the State possesses as yet no railways (excepting the
but partially completed Pan-American), there are at present
several important concessions granted for their construction,
among these being a line from San Juan Bautista to El Paso
de Tamult6; another from the Port of San Benito to Tapa-
chula, and a third from the Port of Tonal& to Front6ra (in
the State of Tabasco), passing through Tuxtla Gutierrez, the
capital of Chiapas, which is possessed of a busy and pros-
perous population of some 28,000 people, a delightful climate
and a situation of 580 metres above sea-level. How soon
these various enterprises will mature, or whether they will
mature at all, I cannot say. At present they are languishing
for lack of capital, the construction entailing a considerable
preliminary outlay, which the State itself could do but little
to supplement.

One most important factor in the many attractions of
Chiapas must inevitably be the marvellous — ^perhaps the most
marvellous of all — ^ruins to be found at Palenque. Every
other prehistoric city in Mexico, and indeed in the world,
must yield pride of place to this, a verdict pronounced and
endorsed by every archsBologist and antiquarian who has ever
seen the great ruins of the universe. Under a separate head-
ing (see Chapter XXYIH.) I deal, very inadequately and very
feebly, alas ! I know too well, with these truly fascinating and
unique relics of a past and completely forgotten generation —
a generation which was ancient and mystic even when the
Toltecs came into possession of the land, of which they were
dispossessed by the Aztecs, and who, again, were despoiled by
the all-conquering Spaniards. These ancient ruins —

" We neyer tread, bnt we set
Oar foot upon some reverend history.**

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CHAPTEB XXXVin

Statb of GmHUAHUA : Population — ^Physioal conditions — ^Agrienltore and
stock-breeding — Wheat-growing — ^Former Governor Creel and the
Indians — A risky experiment — City of Ghihnahna — Irrigation — Rail-
way accommodation — ^Railway extension — ^Kansas City, Mexico and
Orient Railway. State of Goldia: Former importance — ^Popidation
— ^Agricultural resources — Some coffee estates — ^Waterways — Central
railway extensions— Trade and industry — Progressive government —
Improvement in financial conditions.

If the population of the State of Chihuahua were but pro-
portionate to its vast size, it would rank as the most important
State in the Republic of Mexioo. It is almost that as it is ;
but the great drawback which must result from an area of
288,094 square kilometres having but a population of 828,000
persons is apparent. Moreover, out of these 828,000 people,
nearly 9,000 are Indians, belonging principally to the half-
civilised Tarahumara race. With so meagre a populace, the
great resources of the State have been very indifferently
developed, and this in spite of the large amount of foreign
capital — mainly American — which has been invested.

The average of the population works out at only 1*16
inhabitants to the square kilometre, which may be compared,
as an instance of its inadequacy, to Philadelphia, but one-
third of the area, with a population of 1,408,000, or, 140*1
inhabitants to the square mile.

Chihuahua cannot be termed a scenically-beautiful State.
It is practically an enormous, undulating tableland, with an
elevation ranging from 8,600 to 7,000 feet, and a number of
onimpoBing mountain ranges, the highest peak of which does
not exceed 2,800 feet On the whole, the climate is pleasant,
but during the summer a somewhat intense heat prevails
through the midday hours, and during the winter sharp

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16 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

frosts are met with. The summer season is very rainy, and
sometimes the fall continues uninterruptedly for 5 or 6 days.
Dust-storms at other times are frequent, and the town of
Chihuahua itself, during one of these periodical visitations,
is a particularly unpleasant place to be in. No amount of
water thrown on the roads seems to have any effect, drying
up as it does almost as soon as it touches the ground.

Agriculture, once the great resource of Chihuahua, has
now given place to Mining, which has assumed the prominent
and most lucrative position in the State's industries.

There is very little that will not grow in Chihuahua ; but
labour is so scarce and so poor that the produce of the fields
lies on occasions rotting for want of attention. Here are pro-
duced, in varying degrees of excellence, many kinds of cereals
--com, wheat, rye, oats, maize and barley ; while in regard
to vegetables, potatoes, beans and such-like are to be found
moderately cheap and of fair quality.

The wheat crop of 1906 was practically double that of
1906, and that of the present year, I understand, from the
latest advices received from Mexico, are likely to show an
even greater advance. The annual return stands at some-
thing like 400,000 hectolitres, or, say, 1,600,000 bushels.
The crops, due to beneficial rains, clearly demonstrate what
the State might accomplish with systematic irrigation and a
constant labour-supply. That agriculture, however, ranks,
as I have said, second to the mining interests is proved by
the figures given by the Government for last year, which
stand thus:— Values from mining— $16,000,000 (£1,600,000) ;
from agriculture— $4,000,000 (£400,000) . The mining returns
for this year (1907) will be still further augmented by the
recent establishment of smelters at Santa Eulalia, Jimenez,
and Concheno Guaynopila in Parral.

Farming is carried on somewhat primitively, the inhabi-
tants, as a whole, being unreceptive and difficult to teach
new ideas. There is probably too much of the Indian blood
still to combat, and the fact that the peon class has hitherto
been somewhat severely tried by a too-progressive regime has
not tended to bring labour ** into line " as readily as might
have been anticipated.

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CHIHUAHUA EXPERIMENTS 17

apon the rights of others/' we are told by Pasqoier Qaesnel ;
not that the interest displayed in connection with tibe Ghi-
huahaa Indians is to be termed any encroachment upon their
rights ; but the determination of the State Government (under
SeiLor Don Enrique Creel, now Mexican Ambassador to the
United States of America) to tear them suddenly from their
traditional surroundings and to make ''intelligent citizens*'
of them has been rather too precipitate and ill-considered to
prove entirely successful. No doubt much credit is due to
the ex-Governor of the State, who, with money from his own
pocket, established five or six schools for the especial training
of these Tarahumara Indians. That they are not quite ripe
for the experiment is to be regretted, but hardly causes much
surprise. It is now only for the first time in their history
that any attempt has been made to civilise and educate them,
and that under somewhat heroic circumstances.

A somewhat unusual and rather Utopian scheme was last
year inaugurated in Chihuahua, also at the instigation of the
late Governor, one which had for its object the permanent abode
of the working classes by offering them certain inducements to
purchase land and build houses thereon. Apart from the fact
that if a man desires to quit a State and settle elsewhere the
tendering of land at a special cost and upon easy terms of
payment is scarcely likely to cause him to change his mind,
it is questionable whether this policy is altogether to be com-
mended upon other grounds. The terms offered by ex-Governor
Creel of Chihuahua are a reduction of 60 per cent, on the
original price of the land, payment extended over a number
of years and freedom from house taxes for a lengthy period.
The occupier of the land has to build a home for himself, and
this, of course, encourages thrift and stability ; but it looks
rather like offering a bribe ''to be good," especially as a
further inducement is offered in the shape of a free building
lot, measuring 25 x 26 metres, with the provision that it shall
not be sold without the consent of the State Government, " if
no criminal charge has been brought agaiast the recipient for
five years." However, one has to look at the intention of the
Governor, which is undoubtedly a lofty and a generous one.
It would be unwise, perhaps, to expect a general following
of his philanthropic policy among the other States, the

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18 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

majority of which manage to keep their people in order and
fairly well-content without resort to any such expedients as
these.

In point of number and quality of cattle-raising, the State
of Chihuahua stands second in the list of States so far as
actual value goes, the only superior State being that of Jalisco.
The vast, flat ranges to be found in Chihuahua, and the
temperate climate, combined with a good average rainfall,
make it almost an ideal country for cattle, and here are
fattened the thousands of oxen which serve to feed the greater
part of the Mexican Republic. Many head also find their
way to the United States, which are located just across the
border, the cattle being received through the ports of Eagle
Pass, Nogales, El Paso and San Diego. Some of the
haciendas in Chihuahua, some of which cover many hundred
square miles of territory, dispose of as much as 20,000 head
annually ; while horses, asses, mules and goats are also bred
in great numbers. There is one hacienda, belonging to a
prominent and colossally-rich citizen, which brands between
80,000 and 40,000 calves yearly, a result which may be com-
pared to anything of a similar nature to be found in the
premier cattle-raising country of the world— Argentina. I
refer to Senor Terr^sas, formerly (Governor of the State of
Chihuahua, and father-in-law of ex-Gk)vernor Enrique C. Creel.
Some of the finest head I have seen are on the land owned by
the members of the large Mormon Colony which has long been
settled in Chihuahua, the great care bestowed upon breeding
proving an important factor in the success achieved.

Irrigation is receiving some attention at the hands of
capitalists in Chihuahua, there having been three enterprises
of some magnitude inaugurated last year, one dealing with the
Conchos River, above Santa Rosalia, in connection with which
a large hydro-electric plant is contemplated ; a second upon
the Mormon Colony of '* Juarez," and the third upon the
lands of the Corralitos Land and Cattle Co. With the
fine rains which fall in the State, and which can be easily
preserved in dams, and the several rivers already referred to,
irrigation upon an extensive scale ought not to languish for
want of means or lack of enterprise. The Western United
States afford many excellent examples of this kind of enter-

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RAILWAYS IN CHIHUAHUA 19

prise, and Bhoald serve as an encouragement to the large land-
owners and haoiendados of Northern Mexico.

Further particulars of Chihuahua live-stock will be found
under the heading of ** Agriculture " in Chapter LIV.

Railway communication, already very considerable and
annually becoming more extended, has materially assisted the
State in attaining its present prosperous condition, while its
immediate proximity to the flourishing State of Texas (which
formerly belonged to and formed part of Mexico) is an un-
doubted point to be considered.

The main line of the Mexican Central Railway runs through
the State almost from end to end, a distance of about 860
kilometres. There is a branch line which traverses the im-
portant mining district of Parral, where some of the most
celebrated producing-mines are located; while the Mexican
Northern Railway has a track from Escalon to Sierra Mojada
in the State of Coahuila, a distance of 126 kilometres (say
78 miles), linking up that region, singularly rich in low-grade
ores, with the Mexican Central System.

Progress is being made with the new line constructed by the
Rio Grande, Sierra Madre and Pacific Railway ; while exten-
sions of the Chihuahua and Pacific Railway, running at present
from Chihuahua to Temosachic (a distance of 270 kilometres,
or, say, 169 miles), are being persevered with. Perhaps the
next most important line will be the Kansas City, Mexican
and Orient Railway, a new transcontinental system which
passes diagonally across the State of Chihuahua, covering a
distance of several hundred miles of its territory, and serving
to open up an immense tract of hitherto untouched country,
the greater portion of which is admirably adapted to cattle-
raising and a goodly portion proved to be rich in minerals,
but which up till now have been unprofitable to work owing
to the great difficulty in transportation.

The national roads are fairly good. The ground being
comparatively level and the soil somewhat gritty, the rains
do not effect the highways as seriously as in some of the
other States — ^notably Colima, Jalisco and Guerrero. Round
about the City of Chihuahua the wagon-roads are uniformly
good, and are well kept by the State authorities.

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20 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

Owing to its remoteness, being tacked away in the extreme
western comer of the Republic, and the lack of raUway com-
munication hitherto, Colima, the smallest but one of the
States of the Union, has been much neglected. The time
is fast approaching, however, when distance will have but
little effect upon this State's future prosperity, since in a few
months' time a regular service of trains over the Central
Railway System will have linked-up Colima with the rest
of the Republic, and it will be practically bom anew. For
close upon 400 years the little State has lived within itself
and for itself, although, at one time, it ranked as an important
place enough on account of its fine seaport at Manzanillo.

It was in the year 1557 that Don Gtonzalo de Sandob&l, in
the name of King Philip 11. of Spain, founded Santiago de los
Caballeros Colima, so that the town itself is one of the oldest
in the country.

The population of the State of Colima is under 66,000, and
its whole area but 6,114 square kilometres. Of this, the
mainland occupies 6,928 square kilometres, and the islands
of Revillagigedo 186 square kilometres. Some beautiful
country is to be found within the limits of the State, and
which, for grandeur and impressiveness, cannot be excelled
anywhere in the world. In fact, there is barely a square acre
which does not present some feature of interest for the
geologist, the botanist, or the artist. And, withal, scarcely
a dozen of these go near the paradise which is awaiting their
good pleasure and enlightenment.

The climate of the State is not all that can be desired,
being, indeed, one of those drawbacks which scenically-
beautiful countries usually have to put up with. In the
northern parts of the State, where the snow-covered peaks
of Colima volcano temper the atmosphere to a delightful
temperature during the nights, it is pleasant enough ; but the
southern part suffers from intense heat, a good deal of dust at
times, and torrential rains, which, as was the case last year,
cause a great deal of damage to the crops, the railway and
the houses. Fever used to be very prevalent on the coast,
but little exists now, the authorities having very materially
reduced the risks of contagion, and maintaining a constant
vigilance against an outbreak.

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THE STATE OF COLIMA 21

The State is poBsessed of several imposing rivers, two of
which are extremely troublesome. Daring the rainy season
the Armeria and the Goahoayana have frequently come down
from ao to SO feet high, and last year proved an exciting
and trying one for those who lived, or had any property,
near its banks. The entire railway between Golima and
Manzanillo was damaged, every bridge being swept away,
while several people and a large number of cattle were
drowned. So far as the railway is concerned the event is little
likely to recur, since the new line, when completed, will follow
a different route, removed entirely from the river's influence.

The Armeria River traverses the State from North to South,
emptying into the Pacific Ocean through the mouth of the
Pasouales, after a course of some 800 kilometres, of which
barely 20 are navigable from the mouth. The Goahuayana
Biver forms the natural boundary between Golima and
Michoac4n, and is also almost entirely unnavigable. There
are two large lakes, Guyutl4n and Alcuzague, which, being
without any natural outlets, occasion a great deal of trouble
during the dry season, when, being very low, the stagnant
water causes the fish to die and putrify, with the result that
some pestilential odours are wafted across to the town of
Manzanillo, and cause some sickness. This has for some
time been engaging the Government's attention, and in all
probability the nuisance will have been completely overcome
within a very short time (see also Ghapter XXXY., on Man-
zanillo Harbour).

Golima is essentially an agricultural State, and practically
its whole prosperity depends upon that industry and its salt
deposits. The fertility of the soil is such as to enable two or
three crops of many products being gleaned in a single year,
no doubt due to the splendid natural irrigation which the
State enjoys. In some things, such for instance as coffee,
Golima holds premier rank, its cocoa, tobacco, rice, cotton,
indigo and sugar also ranking as among the best of their
kind. The question of population-— especially the lack of it —
again plays a prominent part here ; and if immigrants could
but be induced to come to Golima and till its fruitful soil in
the more healthful portions, there is no limit to what could
be produced therefrom.

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22 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

Among the prinoipal haciendas are those of the Governor
of the State (Sefior Lie. E. 0. de la Madrid), named Ooaracha,
Llano Grande, Bosario and Santa Maria, all of which pro-
duce beans, maize, wheat and rice ; and those of Mr. Arnold
Yogel, the German Consul, named Bincon del Barrio, Santa
Cruz and San Antonio; these with the haciendas of
Miraflores, La Capacha, Chiapa, Ques^ria and Nogueras, form
the principal sugar-producers of the State.

The haciendas of Bella Vista, La Huerta, La Albarrodite,
La Magdalena, Paso del Bio, Alcaracez, San Joaquin, Los
Colomos, Pastores and El Coloma are only a little less im-
portant. These properties produce two crops annually, the
principal ingathering being in the months of January and
February. The annual output averages 800,000 hectolitres
of maize ; 1,600,000 kilograms of rice, and 500,000 hectolitres
of beans. The cane plantations yield 1,200,000 kilograms of
sugar, and 500,000 litres of alcohol. The finest coffee in the
State, which is famous for the quality of the berry it produces,
comes from the Hacienda de San Antonio, the property of
Mr. Arnold Yogel, as stated, and this has taken several foreign
Exhibition prizes. The extensive cocoa-nut plantations of the
Hacienda de Miraflores materially contribute to the wealth of
the State, as do many other small but flourishing undertakings
of a similar nature.

Fruits of every description are grown in Colima, and are
to be obtained almost all the year round at very reasonable
prices. Living generally is cheap, house-rent being very
moderate and the taxation by the State very light. How long
these advantages will endure when once the railway comes
along to effect its usual far-reaching change, it would be
dangerous to prophesy. At present anyone with an income
of £100 a year is deemed in Colima to be well off.

The trade of the State is conducted principally with its
immediate neighbours Jalisco and Michoac&n, the towns of
Guadalajara, Mazatlto and the northern Mexican ports par-
ticipating. To this end thousands of donkeys and mules are
employed, they being the sole means of transport, until the
railway comes through from Tuxpan to replace them. Up
till now every pound-weight of merchandise from the interior
has come to Colima in this way, and the displacement of so

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THE GOVEBNOR 28

many maleteers mil no doubt be acutely felt in the neighbour-
hood so Boon as the iron-horse is thoroughly installed. I
am told that something like $2,0009000 of merchandise and
machinery are carried annually on the backs of mules and
asses.

No small credit is due to the present Gk)yemor of the State of
Colima, Senor Lie. E. 0. de la Madridy for the manner in which
he has succeeded in reorganising the finances of the State and
bringing up the revenue from practically nothing to a sub-
stantial figure, and this without in any way introducing exact-
ing or unfair legislation. Without increasing the number of
contributors, a complete revaluation of both city and urban and
suburban property has been made, both industrial and com-
mercial, it having formerly been taxed either too much or too
little, and very unequally. The new valuation, without entail-
ing any hardships or bringing forth any complaints, has
resulted in a substantially increased revenue for the State.
The latest return of the valuations made gives $7,876,611
(say, £787,561) instead of $4,782,606 (£478,260), and the
estimated cost of this revaluation will not exceed $182,000
(£18,200).

The Governor is very much respected throughout the
State. He is, although comparatively young, a thorough
man of the world, shrewd, kindly and jusi He has fre-
quently acted both as judge and jury for litigants, and with-
out fee or reward, holding the scales of justice evenly between
both parties and enjoying the esteem and confidence of all.
He has assuredly well earned the gratitude of the inhabitants,
who were not always as fortunate in their rulers as they are
at the present time.

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CHAPTER XXXIX

State of Coahuila : The most prosperous and progressive in the Union —
Capital invested — Mineral riohness — ^Agricnltnral resonroee — Cattle
breeding — Some notable ranches — Cotton-oultnre — Some enormous
haciendas — The Purcell interests — Plantations and fruit orchards —
General prosperity — ^Foreign capital — Some notable firms — City of
Saltillo — Public and private buildings — ^Factories and wages — Hall-
ways — Unique transportation f acilities^-Tramways — Government and
education — Smelter and Mazapil Copper Co. — Torreon — Importanoe
of local industries — The Smelter — ^Building progress.

Onb of the three largest States in the Republic — ^Chihuahua
and Sonora being the other two — Coahuila is more richly
endowed than either. In many respects, indeed, it may be
regarded as the premier State of the Union, possessing as it
does a greater stretch of fertile country, more certain — by
which I mean absolutely proved — mineral resources, and a
more bracing climate than any other. Like the State of
Chihuahua, Coahuila adjoins the United States of America,
from which a great amount of capital has already been
received, with the certainty of a great deal more to follow.
The question of population, as in so many other cases in
Mexico, is unfortunately a serious one, the number of inhabi-
tants of the entire State, which has an area of 168,000 kilo-
metres, being only about 882,000. In the year 1900, the
census being taken on October 28, the population was
officially placed at 296,975 ; so that the increase of 85,026 in
six years may be considered as extremely satisfactory. Day
by day the number is augmenting, the State generally succeed-
ing in attracting more immigration, and suffering from less
emigration, than any other in the Republic. I believe that
there are many surprises ahead in regard to Coahuila, or, to
give it its full title, '' Coahuila de Zaragoza," which has a

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THE STATE OF COAHUILA 25

remarkably promising fatore, both from an agricoltaraly an
industrial and a mineral aspeet.

Independently of the amount of capital, principally foreign,
represented in the railways, mines, and other property,
exempt from taxation, properties valued at over $50,000,000
(£5,000,000) are paying taxes to-day in Goahuila, and may be
classed as follows :

Capital in City

.., #6,229,270

Capital in towns

... 9,719,942

Mannfaotnring

... 8,000,000

Commeroial

... 9,000,000

... 12,240,645

Minor Industries

... 6,168,174

Total 160,867,981

Goahuila has, typographically, a very curious shape,
strongly resembling a human face, with a very long nasal
organ, the head, neck and bust being very clearly defined.
The climate, as I have said, is one of the best to be found in
Mexico, the temperature being much about that of the
Southern States of America, but never quite so cold nor as
hot. Warm clothing is very necessary in the winter months,
and fires are found in many of the houses.

It is only within the last few years that the great mineral
richness of Goahuila has been fully realised. Once the fact
was established, however, that the State was possessed of
immense silver deposits and coalfields, as well as copper, iron
and gold, development upon a systematic and conservative
scale was commenced, fostered and encouraged in a sensible
and continuous manner by the Government, which has stead-
fastly set its face against anything approaching a sensational
"boom," preferring to see the State go ahead slowly but
surely, and affording investors abundant opportunities of
testing their holdings before embarking heavily upon other
enterprises. Such a wise policy is bound to result in a per-
manent and staid prosperity, and of this no lack of evidence is at
present wanting. In every direction business is on the upward
grade ; money is plentiful ; public confidence is fully assured,
and ample guarantee is afibrded that the development of to-
day wiU result in enormous and progressive profits hereafter.

The value of the minerals produced by Goahuila last year
amounted to over $10,000,000 (say £1,000,000) . The principal

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26 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

returns came from the Sierra Mojada, where over fifty minee
are at present in full operation, and whose output has averaged
$6,025,000 for the last two or three yeara The Sierra del
Carmen and the Valley of Santa Rosa have also been proved
to contain an almost incredible amount of rich silver-ore» the
regions in which they are located being, as a matter of fact,
one enormous silver-deposit. Every foot of the hills which
abound here has been " denounced/' * and is being held by
strong financial groups, who are perfectly prepared to expend
sufficient sums of their own capital upon proving and develop-
ing the properties beyond any possible doubt before parting
with them to others. The mines of Coahuila are more fully
dealt with in Chapter LXYni.

In spite of the many natural advantages offered for the
pursuit of agriculture, and notwithstanding the fact that it
is followed by a considerable proportion of the inhabitants
with conspicuous success, barely 16 per cent, of the State's
vast area is cultivated. Nowhere will we find finer wheat
than is grown here, and this almost without an effort upon the
part of the husbandmen ; Nature herself takes over the
responsibility, and whether it be in connection with com,
wheat, cotton, beans, peas, sugar-cane, linseed, or some forty
different leguminous plants, and innumerable other fruits of
the earth, the very best of each obtamable can be raised. The
grapes of Coahuila, for instance, are far superior to those of
California, equalling in size and sweetness the finest specimens
of Malaga and Granada.

For 1906, the following figures have been supplied to me
by the State Government, and will subsequently appear in the
annual reports :

Prodaot. QiuiQtities. Value.

Maize 2,154,287 heotol.» $6,462,868

Beans (frijol) ... 182,245 „ 668,225

Barley 115,850 „ 115,850

Wheat 20,158,228 Eg. 2,085,822

Cotton 129,444,057 „ 28,894,289

Ixtle 2,187,247 „ 487,449

Sugar-oane 9,850,000 „ 97,000

Grapes 2,120,000 „ 212,000

YarionB other products, incduding vegetables,
dyes, medicinal extracts, rubber, etc. ... 280,000

* " Denounced " is the local term used lor pegging-out and registering
title.

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RANCHING AND SPORT 27

The wide-Btreicbing fertile plains of the State of Coahnila
oSex great advantages for oatUe-raisingy and the indnstry,
already large, is increasing rapidly, great intelligence being
evinced for the most part in crossing the various breeds. The
Swiss and Holland cattle seem to thrive the best on these
ranges, the altitnde apparently suiting them well. Horses,
mules, asses and hogs are all bred here with great success, the
prices at which they are sold sufficiently indicating their value.
For many years past Ooahuila cattle, although not by any
means numerous compared with the products of such States as
Jalisco and Chihuahua, have maintained their high reputa-
tion. The State Government has displayed an intelligent and
practical interest in the breeding of cattle and horses, which
is fully maintained to-day.

Among the more prominent cattle-ranches are those of
Terrenes en Front^ra, Santa Anita and Esmeralda, all
situated on the Texan frontier of Coahuila, between the San
Roderigo and San Antonio rivers, both having permanent
water and thus rendering it possible to run plenty of stock at
all times. Mules are raised here from the finest Kentucky
jacks and native mares, fetching good prices locally. The
acreage of these properties is 200,000. Over them excellent
sport is to be obtained, hounds having been found to give good
results, and being employed by two Englishmen who own
ranches in the neighbourhood for hunting wild-cat and coyotes,
both of which are very plentiful. Lion (puma) and both black
and cinnamon bear are to be found, while in regard to game
there are three varieties of duck, two of quail, plover and par-
tridge, and the white-tailed deer is also met with.

So much has the area of cotton sown in Coahuila increased
during the past four years that the importation from the
United States has materially decreased. The great cotton
district is that known as the Laguna, which is visited with
abundant rains and many intermittent days of warm sun-
shine, the conditions climatically being therefore excellent for
the cultivation of cotton. So far, the crops have been fortu-
nately free from boll-weevils or other insect pests; but
occasional floods and inundations in the Laguna district have
to be faced. Last year the crop netted about 800,000 lbs.,
even allowing for a loss of some $2,000,000 (£200,000) from

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28 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

floods in a portion of the district. This, however, is so vast
an area, and both rains and floods being purely local, a com-
plete failure of the Laguna's crops is very improbable at any
time.

The gathering-in of the cotton gives employment to a large
body of men, women and children, who travel afoot with their
meagre belongings strapped to their backs, in much about the
same manner as those troublesome but useful wanderers — ^the
hop-pickers of Kent.

The pickers are paid according to what they gather, and
some of the more active and industrious earn as much as $2 to
$S (say 48. to 6s.) a day. The busy period is between the
commencement of October and the end of the month, but the
season extends from August to December, the average wages
for the whole period ranging from $1.00 (2s.) to $2.00 (4s.) per
diem. The following haciendas, which are among the best-
known properties in the State, are situated in the Laguna
district. They are owned by Mr. William Purcell, and are
worked by Guillermo Purcell y Cia : — San Jos6 de los Alamos,
Santa Elena y Anexas, San Lorenzo, El Yenado and San
Marcos. These properties comprise something over 100,000
acres, of which 16,000 are under cotton cultivation, a crop
almost exclusively raised in the Laguna. The Naxas River,
upon which the whole of the Laguna depends for its irriga-
tion, flows through these properties. It is an undoubted fact
that Messrs. Guillermo Purcell y Cia produce the finest quality
of cotton in the district. They were awarded silver medals at
the Paris, Buffalo and St. Louis Exhibitions. The average
price obtained for cotton in Mexico varies between 22 and 28
centavos per lb. The annual product of the Purcell haciendas
varies between 5,000 and 10,000 bales, each bale weighing
about 660 lbs.

The plantations and haciendas in Coahuila form a very
important part of the State's wealth. The Messrs. Madero
Brothers own four large and productive estates — San Carlos,
San Jos6, San Lorenzo and Seguin. Mr. Lorenzo de los
Santos owns the Guadalupe and Trinidad properties, while
others of note are Agua Verde and San Francisco (owned by
Mr. Atilano de la Gorza) ; Santa Anna (Gen. J. M. Cardenas
Madero) ; Gilita and Homos (Mr. Claudio A. Martinez) ; the

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AGBICULTUEE 29

Qnajardo and Los Bosqaes (Messrs. Morales Bros.) ; Naevo
Leon, Gompuesios and El Filar haciendas (Sr. Praxedis
Fe&a) ; La Rosa (Mr. Oatarino Perez) ; El Yogal and La Paz
(Messrs. Yillar Bros.) ; La Florida (Messrs. Siller Bros.) ; and
Hacienda de Maria (Mr. A. Davila Ramos).

The com and bean crops are gathered about October. The
last year's produce was exceptionally large and of excellent
quality, in fact, the best realised for over ten years. Harvest-
ing commenced earlier than usual, namely in the last week
of September, and many districts in Goahuila, particularly
that of Romero Rubio, yielded bumper crops. The poorer
classes were among the first to derive benefit from this condi-
tion of things, and anything like distress in Goahuila last
winter was unknown.

An equally satisfactory condition was found to exist in
regard to the fruit orchards, of which the State possesses
many hundreds, and some of great extent. The crop in 1906
was larger than ever before known, shipping of vast quantities
of apples, quince and pears proceeding right through the
months of September and October. The peach crop, indeed,
taxed the resources of the railway companies to a straining
point, hundreds of crates remaining piled up on the platforms
or in the bodegas awaiting shipment. The orchard-owners, as
a whole, have made a great deal of money, and every en-
couragement to plant out more and more land in peaches,
perones and nuts is thus afforded ; the local demand is con-
siderable, while great quantities are disposed of in the southern
part of the Republic.

Since the guayule plant became known as a possible rubber-
producer, the indust]^ has made good headway in Goahuila,
where the plant grows luxuriantly in a wild state. There are
four recently-erected rubber plants in operation, all working
full time, two being at Saltillo, one at Torreon, and another at
Yiesca. The annual output has already attained dimensions
of some value.

I have previously observed that a great deal of foreign
capital has found its way into Goahuila, and with the best
possible results. To a great extent the commerce of the
State is in the hands of Americans, Germans, Spaniards and
Frenchmen. Two or three British firms are to be found.

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80 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

prominent among whom is the banking-house of Gnillermo
Porcell 7 Cia, a limited liability company, the shares of
which are held entirely and exclusively by the family and
partners. Messrs. Purcell and Co. have an exceedingly large
interest in many of the mines of the State, a railway and
other concerns, and stand very high in the esteem and good-
will of all classes of the community.

This firm first established a Bank in the year 1870, which
carries on, in a prominent thoroughfare and a handsome
building, a general banking business, there being a branch
house at San Pedro, in the Laguna district, and centre of the
cotton industry. In January 1906 Mr. Purcell formed his
business into a small private limited liability company, in
order to better carry on and manage the many different
interests controlled by the firm in various parts of the
Republic. The partners are : Jasper Foulkes Lynch, Felip6
Helschneider, and Santiago Purcell, son of the founder.

Other firms which have helped to bring to the State of
Coahuila its present great prosperity are Messrs. Demaso
Rodriquez y Hijos, Messrs. Adeliado Lopez Hermanos and
Clemente Sieber and Co., Mr. Isidro Lopez, Mr. Clemente
Cabello, Mr. Franciso Arizpe y Ramos, and others. The
Messrs. Marcelino Garza and Sons carry on an old and
highly-esteemed banking business, while the Banco Nacional
de Coahuila is also a fiourishing institution. Several large
wholesale houses, occupying premises which will vie with any
in Mexico City for extensiveness and completeness of equip-
ment, are to be found, the general trend of business being
on the upward grade, in practically every department.

Commercially speaking, Coahuila may be regarded as an
exceptionally prosperous State. This is due principally to
the railway communication which it enjoys, perhaps the most
complete of any in the Republic. Exports principally find
their way to the United States, the metallic productions going
over the Mexican Northern Railway from Sierra Mojada to
Escalon (a distance of 78 miles), and thence over the Mexican
Central lines to Ciudad Juarez, a further 419 miles. Coal
goes to the States via Piedras Negras ; fiour goes to the adjoin-
ing State of Nueva Leon ; cotton fabrics to Jalisco, Zaoateeas
Durango, Monterey and Mexico ; salt, cattle, wool, skins, etc.,

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MANUFACTURES 81

to several Mexican States, as well as to Texas ; raw cotton,
cereals, fruits and alcohol, as well as ixtle, all over the
Republic and to the United States.

Piedras Negras is a customs port for all imports and
exports finding their way to or from America, besides being
an important market in conjunction with Saltillo, San Pedro
de la Laguna, Torreon, Sierra Mojada, Monclova, Parras and
Yieeca. If I put the trade between Goahuila and the United
States via the border city of Porfirio Diaz at $8,000,000 for
exports and $8,500,000 for imports, I think I am well within
the mark of the present day's values.

Already possessed of several factories of first importance,
scarcely a month transpires but some new industrial estab-
lishment is founded, or application made to the State
Government of Goahuila for permission, or assistance, in this
direction. Cotton spinning and weaving are the chief in-
dustries, there being at present over 12 plants well filled up
with the latest type of machinery — almost exclusively of
British manufacture, I may add, the principal being El
Labrador, La Aurora, La Hibernia and La Libertad, in
Saltillo ; La Constancia and La F6, in Torreon ; La Estrella,
in Parras; La Esmeralda, in Ramos Arizpe; La Bella
Union in Arteaga, and La del Bravo at Allende.

In Arteaga there is also a paper-mill ; while throughout the
State there are between 50 and 56 flour-mills. Among these
the most notable are El F6nix and La Estrella, both in the
Municipality of Saltillo, the San Lorenzo at Parras, and those
of Manuel de la Fuente and Marcelino Galindo at Nadadores.
There are 48 sugar-mills fitted with some British and some
French machinery, the largest mill being perhaps that of
Messrs. Gonzalez Trevifios, situated upon their fine planta-
tion Victoria.

Of wine and spirit factories there are close upon a hundred,
to be precise 95, the various liquids being distilled from
grapes, sugar-cane, quinces, the maguey (producing the
national drink ** pulquey "), mesquite and sozol. Parras and
Cuatro Gi6negas possess the most important factories of this
kind, whence come some delicious liqueurs made of the grape,
which would tempt the palate of a Lucullus, and which any-
how secured the first prize at the Expositions at New Orleans,

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82 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

Philadelphia, Chicago, Buffalo and Paris. Pastry and sweet-
meats are also made in great quantities in Coahuila factories,
and are exported to various parts of the Republic.

Of other factories of various kinds the State possesses some
1,262, most of them worked by steam. At Torreon and at
Porfirio Diaz are some admirably equipped ironworks, and
which turn out first-class work; while at the Hacienda de
Homos, in the Municipality of Yiesca, there is a completely
equipped foundry which makes practically every requirement,
and effects every necessary repair, for the different Railways.
Iron and steel foundries are established at Torreon and Yiesca,
and are enjoying a profitable trade.

To prove claim to one-eighth of the entire length of railway
track in the Republic is no mean achievement, and that
is what Coahuila can do. No other State possesses anything
approaching the railway communication of this one, and
every possible advantage is taken of the means of transporta-
tion. The following systems serve Coahuila, and serve it
well: —

Name of Railway. BLilometres.

The International 828

The National 168

The Central 779

^^The Goahnila and Zacateoaa 188

The Goahnila and Pacific 807

^he Mexican Northern 67

^^The Coahuila Mineral Line 40

^^The Homos 8

Total 2,810

There are, additionally, many kilometres of tramways,
worked both by electric and animal traction, Torreon pos-
sessing a first-class electric system, and Monclova, Allende,
Matamoras, San Pedro, and Homos mule-drawn services.

Without the close attention which the Government devotes
to educational matters, the State could scarcely have attained
the prosperous condition which it enjoys to-day. The sum
annually expended upon education amounts to $816,000 (say
£81,500). There are the Preparatory School, the Normal,
sixty-four schools for boys, sixty-two for girls, and twenty-

* See also Chapter XXXII.

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EDUCATION IN COAHUILA 88

three for both sexes; while to teach them are employed
850 masters and mistresses, having under their charge 8 JOO
male and 7,508 female pupils. I understand that this year,
BO far as it has gone, a considerable increase in the school
attendance throughout the State has been reported. In
Saltillo alone last year this increase amounted to 80 per cent.
In this city the schools contain 1,888 children attending the
official classes, while the normal school has an average atten-
dance of 140, and the primary annex 185. The Oolegio
Juarez, a primary establishment for girls and boys, which
owes its origin to the enterprise of the Gbvemor of the State,
Se&or Lie. D. Miguel Garden&s, is well attended at every sitting.
The Juan Antonio de la Fuent^ School has recently adopted
several desirable innovations in the system of teaching, and
one of the latest features introduced is a commercial class,
at which the pupils receive a thorough business training,
including the English language, book-keeping, typewriting,
and stenography.

Attendance at school is compulsory for all children between
the ages of six and fourteen, and the Government exercises
the strictest supervision through its officers in seeing that
none escape, or are allowed to play truant. The only
exception made by the school authorities is in the case of
children suffering from some physical or mental defect which
incapacitates them from study, or who reside more than two
kilometres distance from the school-house.

An entirely new normal school, costing £10,000, was
finished this year, and is now in use. It possesses every
modem improvement and convenience. The Saltillo prepara-
tory school contains a museum, which has already several
thousand different specimens, including a very representative
coUeotion of minerals.

I may mention that education is entirely free in Goahuila,
as in all the other States of Mexico, and the pupils are not
called upon to pay any fees whatever, nor yet anything for
their books, stationery, or materials, even in the chemical
and natural history departments, which are exceptionally
well equipped with apparatus and models.

The City of Saltillo, also called El Oentro, is the possessor
of nearly 25,000 inhabitants, and is a pleasant place of

VOL. n. 24

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84 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

residence. Being the principal industrial centre of the State,
it contains some fine buildings, which are daily being added
to, such as the Oovemor's Palace and his private residence, a
very conspicuous house designed with very good taste; the
Zaragoza Theatre, the Catholic Cathedral, the Penitentiary,
the hospital, the Bank of Coahuila, the Bank of Guillermo
Purcell y Cia, and the State College.

Building is proceeding in every direction, especially around
the plaza, where many of the old and picturesque houses are
being demolished to give place to new and more commodious
premises. Among additional factory buildings recently com-
pleted are the Smelter of the Mazapil Copper Company,
Limited, which has involved an outlay of over £50,000 ; a
guayule factory for the Anglo-Mexican Rubber Company,
which has cost $200,000 (£20,000) ; the Cohnena Flour Mill,
costmg $100,000 (Jei0,000); the Flour Mill of Clemente
Cabrello and Co., costing the same amount ; a new theatre,
and the large general store of Messrs. Damosa Rodriguez
and Co., which will cost $120,000 (£12,000).

The Casino, a remarkably beautiful building used as a club
by the leading inhabitants of Coahuila, is one of the land-
marks of the city. It contains one of the largest and most
elaborately decorated ball-rooms to be found in the Republic.
Handsome marble steps leading up to the main entrance, and
costing between $4,000 and $5,000, have this year been added,
being imported direct from Carrara.

Many reception and retiring rooms, a billiard-room con-
taining ten tables, and a splendid pillared hall of marble
and mahogany are among the Club's many attractions.
Dances are given twice a month throughout the year, being
attended by all the principal families of Saltillo. The Club,
which is a proprietary establishment, possesses some 280
members, and its doors are hospitably opened to the ladies of
the town, so far as the public reception and ball-rooms are
concerned, and to all foreign visitors who may be presented
by a Member. The Club forms the nucleus of an exceedingly
liberal and spontaneous hospitality, the Saltillo families being
among the most kindly and cultured to be found in Mexico.

Water-meters have lately been installed in all the principal
Saltillo houses, and the local electric-lighting company are

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TORREON 86

making improvementB — ^long-needed — in their equipment and
BorviceB. New pavements are contemplated and would be
welcomed, as the old cobble-stone roads are very unpleasant
for those who keep good carriages.

The Municipality is completing a scheme for establishing a
suburban settlement just outside the city, upon a high and
bracing location, where many handsome private residences
are contemplated. An association has also been formed to
provide a large public garden and playground, where various
athletic sports can be indulged in. The space selected covers
400 hectares, and here a park, drive-way, lakes, and pleasure-
grounds will be laid out. A bowling alley has been arranged
for by some other public-spirited citizens, there being five
alleys, all of which are fully used.

A very few years ago Torreon, in the State of Ooahuila,
was little more than an Indian village, and while the surround-
ing country remains as flat and unattractive as ever, the town
itself is becoming rapidly a city, and one of the most impor-
tant commercial and industrial centres in the Republic. The
Americans have had it entirely their own way here, and like
Monterey, in Nuevo Leon, Torreon has become an American
stronghold. Indeed, it is fast losing its primitive Mexican
appearance, for, although there are still to be found whole
streets in the adobe stage, the main portions of the town,
surrounding and diverging from the railway-station, are
being rapidly converted to the appearance of a prosperous
and well-laid-out Western settlement. Brick and stone three-
Btoried buildings are going up in several directions, two which
have been completed — the buildings occupied by the National
Bank, and the Bank of London and Mexico, facing one
another at opposite comers of a street — affording some idea
of what Torreon will look like in a few years from now. A
stone-built hotel — the Salvador — some wide-fronted dry-
goods stores, displaying, it must be admitted, a good deal of
rubbish, and several well-conducted restaurants are already
established, and apparently thriving apace. The streets swarm
with hurrying, busy-looking American men, but few women
are to be met with during the day.

A new American Colony is being rapidly built to the East of
l!orreon, known as the " Pajonal." Streets, tree-planting and

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86 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

all the typical appearances of a neat American settlement are
there, the houses being precisely alike and many jerry-built.
Most of the residents already own their dwellings, while others
are rented or purchased on time-payments. The mud roads,
which are as yet pretty much as Nature left them, do not con-
duce to comfort or convenience, and the drainage — if any — ^is
primitive and defective. Doubtless in due time this will be
remedied, but to most minds it would appear somewhat mis-
taken policy to omit this indispensable arrangement in the
first instance. The drainage of Torreon itself is very bad, and
in the hot seasons the street smells are poisonous. But the
foreigners' noses seem unable to detect them, and the Mexicans
do not mind them.

The soil being extremely dry around Torreon, for the
greater part of the year the inhabitants suffer greatly from
the clouds of gritty dust which blow in the afternoons and
evenings, covering everything with a layer of dirt, which,
although not adhesive, is extremely disagreeable. In the
rainy season this dust naturally becomes converted into a sea
of liquid, sticky mud.

The amount of railway traffic experienced by the two
principal lines serving Torreon, the Central and the National,
has quadrupled itself within the last few years, and the future
of Torreon as a prosperous community seems assured. The
great industries of the place, which may be regarded as being
centred in the Torreon Smelter (GompaiLia Metalurgica de
Torreon) and the Rubber factory (Gompania de Guayule
Continental), afford employment to nearly 1,000 men alone ;
while a foundry and several cotton factories, etc., etc., are
increasing both their output and their plant continually. One
of the latest forms of enterprise started is the Torreon Star^
an exceedingly good specimen of the American news-sheet,
printed in both English and Spanish, and published weekly.
A very complete installation of electric trams, electric light
in most of the houses, and a perfectly pure water service help
to lighten living in Torreon of its many drawbacks.

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CHAPTER XL

Statb or DvBANQo : Phydoal distmotioziB — Fauna and flora — ^Agrienltoral
lands — Maguey and tobacco — Gatile-raLEdng — Imports — American
capital — Banking conditions — Railway communication — City of
Dorango— Typical architecture — Old Spanish edifices and patios.
Statb or OtvmasAsLo: Backward condition — Soil and climate-
Population and industries — Acapulco — Railways and steamer
acconmiodation — Mineral wealth — Some famous mines.

In spite of its great area, namely 109,495 square kilometres,
the State of Dorango, like its immediate neighbours Chihuahua,
Coahuila and Zacatecas, has a very limited population, little
over 870,000 in faot. The increase in immigration is exceed-
ingly slow, and as the prosperity of the mining industry
increases the paucity of labour available becomes more and
more acute.

Durango, as a whole, is a pleasant State in which to live,
since almost every variety of climate can be found there.
The altitudes vary a great deal, the Western portions, for
instance, where are found the Sierra Madre mountains, being
very cold in the winter, while the region of the valleys and
plains, extending from the foot of the mountain ranges, is
temperate, and, in some localities, quite sultry. The Nazas
plain, on the other hand, is wholly temperate, and very
pleasant during the whole year. On the vast pasture-lands
the climate is usually either very hot or very cold, rain being
moderate and frosts frequent on the higher ground. A good
deal of fever and pneumonia used to exist here ; these diseases
stiU prevail at certain seasons of the year. Since modem
methods of treatment have been introduced very few fatalities
occur.

Both mountain and stream are found in great beauty in
Durango. The superb Sierra Madre, with altitudes varying
between 2,600 and 8,600 metres, and the lofty peak of

87

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88 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

Moinoza as its crown» are extremely effective from a scenic
point of view; whilst the Nazas River nms a coarse of
600 kilometres from the Sierra Mountains until it empties
itself into the Lake of Habas, joining up with the Santiago
and the San Juan Rivers on the way. There are several
other picturesque and useful rivers, and a goodly number of
small lakes, the principal of these being the Colorado, the
Quatimap^, Ojo de Agua, Sanceda, Ind6, and Atotonilco.

Some of the most beautiful flowers to be found in Mexico
grow in the State of Durango, there being probably some
80 or 90 different varieties. Of birds and beasts generally
the State has also a great assortment, and scenically it is one
of the most beautiful parts of the Republic. Agriculture and
mining are the principal resources, but ere long one will have
to describe them as ''mining and agriculture," since the
latter is fast losing ground in the amount of the annual
returns in comparison with the newer industry.

The finest portions of the agricultural lands are located in
the partidos of Mapimi, Durango, San Juan del Rio, and
Papasquiaro. The splendid soil produces to perfection all
kinds of cereals — com, maize, wheat, barley — cotton, tobacco,
numerous kinds of fruits, leguminous plants, sugar-cane and
other things. There are some 200 different plantations or
farms, of which, however, only two or three are devoted to
sugar cultivation ; 150 to cereals ; 8 or 9 to maguey (mescal),
8 or 4 to tobacco, and the balance to cattle-raising. The
latter are situated principally in the partidos of Durango,
El Ojo, Cuencam6, Nazas, Ind6 and Papasquiaro. I am
informed that the number of the stock annually raised exceeds
1,000,000 head.

Trade is better to-day in Durango than it has ever been
^jiown to be in the history of the State. This is no doubt
due to the largely increased American capital invested there,
and the very many new residents who have arrived from the
United States. As yet British interests in the State are few
and of but small importance, but they promise to become
larger at no distant date, several important mines now being
under offer to British financiers.

Owing to the fact that Durango is an entirely inland
district, it is very difficult to obtain any reliable information

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DURANGO'S TRADE 89

in regard to the imports, bat this much I may say — more
than 60 per cent, come from the United States. American
capital is, as abready mentioned, especiaUy active in the
mining districts, a fnller account of which will be found
under the chapters on mining. As to the exports from this
district, they are composed almost entirely of bullion, silver
being the principal mineral in value, and more than 90 per cent,
of its exported products going to the United States. The Mint
at Durango was closed in 1899, but it still remains one of the
most important assay and registration centres of the Federal
Government. The mineral products of the State greatly
preponderate. Lead shipments have been falling off of
late, the principal (United States) market having lessened its
demand owing to finding supplies outside those of Mexico for
the time being. Of the animal products, goatskins have,
in the past, made up 95 per cent, or more of the whole.
Shipments fell off somewhat when the new shoe-factory,
known as ** La Union," situated at Gomez Palacio, was started.
This is a purely local enterprise, and is at present only in a
modest stage of development ; but nevertheless some 250 pairs
of shoes of all grades, largely made from goatskins, are turned
out daily.

Banking conditions are very forward in Durango, in spite of
its limited railway communication. The Bank of Durango is
a very successful institution, and has recently opened several
smaller branches. It is managed entirely by young Mexicans,
and quite recently its paid-up capital was increased from
$1,000,000 to $2,000,000 (Mex.), while it has now a very
lumdsome stone-building for its home. Apart from the State
Bank, the National Bank of Mexico and the London Bank of
Mexico have branches.

In addition to its vast mineral resources the State of
Durango is immensely rich in standing timber, principally
pine and oak ; but until railway facilities are introduced the
forests on the Sierra must remain practically untouched. I
am told that something like 20,000 feet of merchantable
timber to the acre is to be found in some of these regions, so
that a striking opportunity awaits the capitalist who comes
into Durango with the idea of working its virgin timber
resources.

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40 MEXICX) OP THE XXth CENTURY

The partidoB of Dnrango and Mapimi may be described as
the oominereial centres of the State, from which an active
trade is maintained with the States of Sinaloa, Chihaahna,
Jalisco, Zacatecas and Goahnila, as well as with the United States
of America and Mexico City. The exports mainly consist of
mineral ores (of which gold, silver and iron form the principal
part), cereals, cotton, woods, fruits, live-stock, hides and
skins, wools, tallow, etc., etc., while large consignments of
cotton and woollen goods find their way to the neighbooring
States of Zacatecas and Ghihoahoa.

On the other hand, Dnrango bays largely from other States
and from America, importing considerable quantities of
groceries, hardware, silk, cotton, wool, and linen manofactnred
goods, machinery, agricultural implements, mining tools,
arms, ammunition, etc., etc., the whole trade of this pro-
gressive State exceeding by a long way $10,000,000 (say
£1,000,000) per annum.

In regard to railway communication, Durango is better
placed than some of its neighbours, always excepting the
State of Goahuila, which is the best off of any. Both the
Mexican Central and the Mexican International Railways
traverse the State, but the City of Durango is poorly served.

At the present time several minor railway concessions are
being financed, and will be commenced, if the present promis-
ing condition of things continues, this year. The Parral and
Durango Bailway Company is an American undertaking which
was offered to British investors last year, and rejected. It
runs for about 71 kilometres (say 45 miles) out to the Minas
Nuevas, and is destined one day to become a valuable money-
earner. The British investing public made a great mistake in
declining to subscribe to this undertaking, in spite of the price
which was asked.

Lie. D. Esteban Fernandez, the Governor of Durango, is
one of the most brilliant men of the Bepublic entrusted with
State Government and its grave responsibilities. He is but
65 years of age, and both physically and menially very distin-
guished. He formerly occupied the position of Secretary to
the previous Governor, by which means he obtained a
thorough idea of his duties and their multifarious obligations.
He has materially assisted the progress of the State, and takes

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CITY OP DUBANGO 41

the keenest mtereet in everything that oonceme it. He is
not an infrequent visitor to the Capital, where he possesses
nnmerous friends, among whom he has the privilege of
reckoning the President himself. His appointment dates
from September 1904. He will nnqnestionably be re-eleeted
on the expiration of his term next year.

The City of Dnrango is typically Spanish, with its nnmerons
narrow streets running at rig^t angles, frequent plazas (all
laid out upon exactly the same scale, size and style), its long,
low stretches of exteriorly ugly honses — ^bnt with delightful
interiors, opening off patios gay with flowers and colour of
every description. Some substantial buildings surround the
main plaza, which, however, is rather small, but beautifully
shaded by lofty, full-grown treea The State House is a
remarkably well-preserved Spanish edifice. The city is about
three hundred and fifty years old, the site which it now
occupies having been a ranch, the owner having given away lots
to settlers who would help to protect him against the Indians.

One of the least progressive States of the Mexican Union is
that of Guerrero, which has made practically no advance
beyond a little mining enterprise during the past half -century.
The only distinction which I can trace to this State is that of
having been selected as the meeting-place of the first Congress
of Mexico, on September 18th, 1818, in the Capital, named
Chilpancingo. The State has not yet any system of raibroads,
only very indiflerent roads, and produces but little, although,
no doubt, some day, under a greater amount of State govern-
mental impetus, this part of the country may awaken from
its lethargy, and fall into line with the remainder of the
Bepublie.

Whereas the total area of the State measures nearly 65,000
square kilometres, there is a population of only about 479,800,
and of these the great majority are ignorant Indians, with no
ambitions, no resources, and no especial encouragement to
improve their present condition.

It is impossible to say what the State of Guerrero, under
Bome intelligent and enterprising scheme of development,
might do. The soO is as a rule very rich, and being a
maritime State with a fine port — ^that of Acapulco — a mining

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42 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

region believed, but not as yet proved, to be one of the richest in
the BepabliCy and a suitable climate for the cultivation of coffee,
cotton, sugar and cereals, there is a fair prospect one day of
Guerrero becoming an important contributor to the nation's
wealth. At present, it must be admitted, the entire commerce
of the State is of little importance. This is greatly due to
the already-mentioned fact that there are no railroads in
the country, nor, so far as I have been able to ascertain,
any immediate prospects of constructing any.

Another very serious drawback to the progress of the State
is the unhealthy character of the climate. This is particularly
deadly for Europeans and Americans, and even the natives
themselves are unable to resist the ravages of the pernicious
form of malaria which continually prevails there, sometimes
whole villages being prostrated from the epidemic. Such
trade as there is mainly consists of minerals, live-stock, cotton,
fruits and woods, as exports; and manufactured products,
food products, hardware, machinery, tools, implements and
dry goods as imports, practically all these latter coming from
the United States. At Acapulco there is a maritime Custom
House, but the entire annual receipts scarcely exceed the
pitifully small sum of $500,000 Mex. (say £50,000). Probably
the entire trade of the State amounts to little more than
$10,000,000 Mex. (£1,000,000).

The mineral wealth of Guerrero is, as yet, an unknown
quantity, but there are those who have made a close examina-
tion of the State who declare that, in a few years' time, in
fact, so soon as railway communication can be secured,
Guerrero is likely to become one of the most promi-
nent mineral producers in Mexico. As I have shown,
Guerr6ro has remained in statu quo for the last quarter of a
century in regard to means of locomotion, if I except the
completion of what is now the terminus of the Cuemavaca
division of the Central Railway, at Rio Balsas. The other
outlet in the direction of the State of Mexico, at San Juan de
las Huertas, also the terminus of a small road, is located at a
considerable distance from the principal producing mines of
the State, such as Campo Morado. The latest and most
extensive mining camp to be opened-up in the State of
Guerr6ro is Taxco, of which there is much hope.

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DuRANC.o. — Entrance to the Penitentiary in the City of Durango.

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GUERRERO MINING RESOURCES 43

The best-known individual mine in this district is the Real,
which has been worked on and off for a good many years ;
but the ore has to be transported on pack mules for a long
distance, occupying over 4 or 6 hoars, according to the con-
dition of the tracks. The Pedregal el Rosario, Noxtepec,
Poder de Dies, Tetipac and the Pregones Valley, all of which
are situated in the immediate vicinity of Taxco, are highly
mineralised mines, but the companies or individuals owning
them require the necessary capital for adequate development.
The Mitchell Mining Co. own La Ditcha, where a fair amount
of development has proceeded, one of the shafts being down
700 feet and a cross-cut having been run to catch the main-
ore body. Los Grades, which belongs to a small American
Company, has shown concentrates running as high as 61 kilos
of silver and 200 grammes of gold. I have also seen a small
sample of ore which assayed $45,000 (£4,600) in gold values
to the ton, but it came from a pocket, so that this cannot be
regarded as any criterion as to the value of the district. La
Rambla Real owns mines in the district of Juliantia, in the
municipality of Tazco. The capital is a small one, $80,000
(J£,8,000), and nearly all the proprietors are Mexicans.

Besides gold and silver, opals are found in considerable
quantities in Guerrero, the two most famous mines being
San Nicolas del Oro and Huitzuco. There are two classes of
opals, the common and the fine, the former having a milky-
white colour, with a tendency to yellow more or less marked,
while the fine opal presents many beautiful variations in
colour, ranging from a topaz-yellow to a pale-red, with vivid
flashes of red and green. At Huitzuco, where quicksilver
is also worked, the opal is found in traquite rock, and the
quality is of dark blue-grey, almost a black, from which red
and green colourings flash with the varying light.

The port of Acapulco was to have been connected by rail-
road with the interior of the Republic, and many optimistic
and enterprising capitalists have set out with the intention
of completing the undertaking. Among others was the Inter-
oceanic Railway, a British Company in the first instance, but
now forming part of the National Lines System, and the con-
cession for which covered the construction of a line ''from
Veracruz to Acapulco " — hence the name ** Interoceanic."

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44 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

Bat the extension to the Port of Acapuloo never has been,
and, to my mind, never will be built, at any rate by the Inter-
oceanic Bailway, the physical difficulties being enormous and
the expense prohibitive. The State Qovemment is too poor
to help out any such form of enterprise, and too unenterprising
to evince any particular amount of interest in it, either. The
port is nevertheless a splendid one, and, as it is, a consider-
able amount of shipping goes on there. The Pacific Mail
Steamers call there, as well as those of the Compania Mexi-
cana de Vapores del Pacifico y Golfo de California. The
number of vessels entering the port annually is about 220 to
240, and of those sailing thence between 220 and 280, mainly
small steamers of native ownership. The total value for
1905-1906 was estimated by a local official as being $500,000
(Mex.) as exports from the Republic and $520,000 as imports.

The inland trade has made but little advance during the
last decade, and to-day does not exceed, if, indeed, it equals,
$8,000,000 (£80,000) annually. The only manufactures
worth recording are the products of the sugar-cane, palm-oil,
cotton-spinning, tanning, and the limited amount of agricul-
tural produce.

The State of Guerrero is, as I have indicated, a large one,
and is composed of 14 different districts.

In the spring of this year a disastrous earthquake, which
affected the whole of the Pacific Coast of Mexico to the extent
of some 500 miles, caused much destruction of life and
property in both Acapulco and Chilpancingo, as well as in
other towns of the State of Guerrero. The country was in
no position to withstand so severe a financial calamity, and
acute commercial depression has followed as a matter of
course. This visitation will probably mean a set-back for
Guerrero for an almost indefinite time, and whatever chances
there may have been for foreign capital to have regenerated
the State seem now to have vanished.

This is not the first time that Chilpancingo has suffered
from seismic troubles, and which have always occurred in
connection with Colima disturbances. In 1887 Chilpancingo
was partially destroyed by an earthquake, and a number of
lives were lost, while again in the year 1900 the unfortunate
city was a victim, several hundreds of people being killed, and

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PESTS OP GUERM&EO 45

thoaeands rendered homeless. This disaster is still fresh in
the memories of the people of Mexico, and forms the subject
of conversation among the old gossips of the State. In fact,
snch events as births, deaths and marriages are reckoned
from that black period in their history.

Some of the villages are wretched-looking places, and for
the greater part the inhabitants seem to be dull, sullen and
discontented, apparently onfriendly to foreigners and un-
willing to extend them any welcome or assistance. One of
the greatest troubles of the State is the myriad of poisonous
and venomous insects of every description. Several foreigners
have been bitten, and have died from the attacks of these
pests, scorpions, centipedes, tarantulas and mosquitoes appar-
ently thriving here as they thrive nowhere else in the
Bepublic. Even the natives complain bitterly of the afflic-
tion.

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CHAPTER XLI

State of Guanajuato : Mining fame— River systems — Seenio sorround-
ings— Trade and indnBtary— Imports and exports— Railway oommmii-
cation — City of Guanajuato — Public buildings — Social life and
amusements— Hidalgo, Patriot priest — City of Leon— Native in-
dustries — ^Electric-light plants — ^Braniff interests — Cotton factories —
Woollen industry— Cfcarro costumes— Tramways— Busy inhabitants
— General prosperity.

The State of Guanajuato has become almost universally known
by reason of the valuable sUver and gold mines which have
been discovered there, but it would be an entirely erroneous
impression to suppose that mining is the sole industry of
this State. In addition to its extensive natural deposits of
precious minerals, there are fertile lands, populous cities,
excellent railway services and other recommendations which
entitle the State to careful consideration. It possesses, more-
over, a striking topographical aspect, unlike in many respects
that of any other part of Mexico. The situation of the land
is on the Cordillera of the Anahuac. The north-west and
central sections are traversed by mountainous ranges, while to
the west and south extend the remarkably rich valleys of
San Felip6, San Judas and Santiago, as well as the beautifully
fertile plain of El Bajio.

One of the greatest advantages of the Guanajuato State,
particularly from an agricultural and mining point of view,
is the abundance of water. Several rivers course through
this portion of the country, and water the State from end to
end. There is, in addition to the three rivers the Lerma, the
Laja and the Turbio, the Irapuato, a smaller but equally useful
stream, and the Tuririapundaro, or ** Lake of Blood," about
97 square kilometres in extent, and dotted with several little
islands.

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TRADE AND COMMERCE 47

The State of Goanajoato may be reokoned as one of the
most prosperous mercantile centres of the Bepablic. The
total value of the trade carried on by the State may
be put at some jG18,400,000 ($67,000,000, U.S. Cy. or
$184,000,000 Mex. Cy.) per annum, which, for a population
of little over 1,000,000, is an excellent showing. The chief
sources from which all this commercial industry arises com-
prise principally the minerals, which go to Mexico, the United
States of AJnerica and Europe, and which represent about
£4,000,000 ; secondly, agricultural and other products to the
value of £2,000,000, most of which find their way to the
home States; and thirdly, exports of industrial products,
amounting in value to some £400,000. The State, on the
other hand, imports from Mexico City, the United States
and Europe, goods to the value of ^62,400,000 ($12,000,000
U.S. Cy., $24,000,000 Mex. Cy.). Of this, about £600,000
comes from the neighbouring States of Mexico, and the
balance is made up of purely local trade. The imported
commodities include groceries, ready-made clothing, textiles,
hardware, drugs, arms and ammunition, canned goods, agri-
cultural and mining machinery and tools, etc., etc. There is
a considerable portion of inter- State commerce, comprising
such articles as pulque, mezcal, tequila, fruits, coffee, etc., etc.,
some of the finest of the latter coming from the Estates of
Messrs. Braniff, who make a speciality of this product. The
principal exports, after minerals and agricultural products,
are live-stock, cotton-goods, etc.

There are few States in the Republic of Mexico which possess
to-day a better system of railway communication than that
of Guanajuato. Wide as it is, however, the thriving condition
of the country and its astounding rate of progress have
ahready rendered an augmentation necessary. Shortly after
these lines appear in print, a further improvement will have
been effected by bringing the Central line of railway right
into the City of Guanajuato. Up till now, the Central
main-line has stopped at Silfto, about 11 miles from the out-
skirts of the City. Both passengers and goods have been
conveyed from Silto to Marfil upon a branch-line, and thence
on an antiquated mule-line of trams into the city. Naturally,
much and aggravating delay was occasioned by so slow and

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48 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

tedious a process of locomotion, and the completion of the
new railway communication, with a depdt in the heart of the
busy city itself, will mean an immense benefit to the com-
mercial and mining community at large. The State of
Guanajuato is served generally by both the Mexican Central
and the Mexican National Lines of Railways.

The mines of Guanajuato will be found treated more folly
in Chapter LXX.

The City of Guanajuato, which is the capital of the State
of the same name, with its 80,000 population, is a strange
mixture and assimilation of <^e old and the new, of the
picturesque and the strictly utilitarian. Side by side with
the humble adobe dwelling, towers some handsome edifice
surrounded by its beautiful gardens. There are quite a
number of elegant buildings in the City, such as the T6atro
Juarez, the Palace of Legislature and the Halls of Congress ;
while the Esperanza Reservoir, the Electrical Power plant,
the Parque Porfirio Diaz, known as "El Cantador," the
Pr6sa de la OUa, and the State College, where a unique
collection of mineral specimens is to be found, are also notable
additions to the attractions of this fortunate town. In spite
of its curious formation, being, as it is, built on and up (he
steep sides of a narrow ravine in the mountain range, Guana-
juato is remarkable for the large number of beautiful private
residences, the great majority of which are conspicuous not
alone by the elegance of their architecture, but by their superb
gardens, which front and sometimes entirely surround them.
In these gardens are to be found every kind of sub-tropical
plant and flower; and the grounds, viewed from a height,
afford one the impression that Guanajuato is growing
out of the centre of a huge green oasis, while nestling
closely in the hollow of the superb rolling hills which
surround it.

A very pleasant phase of Guanajuato social life is the
good-feeling and bonhomie which exist between the various
foreigners living there. The American element considerably
predominate, but there are several Britishers, Germans and
Frenchmen who provide the leavening element, the combina-
tion forming an agreeable cdterie, all the members of which
are on good terms with one another. The relations also

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GUANAJUATO POWEE PLANT 49

existing between the foreigners and the official circles are of
the very best. As a whole, Goanajoato may be considered a
very desirable place in which to live, as much by reason of its
Bodal attractions as by its picturesque surroundings and its
splendid business opportunities. Its historical associations
moreover are most interesting, being closely indentified with
the Patriot-Priest Hidalgo, whose history forms one of the
most striking examples of heroism, and whose end was that
of most patriots who have been bom a little too soon. His
memory is much revered by the Mexicans of to-day, and after
him the State of Hidalgo has been named, while his effigy in
stone is to be found occupying a prominent place in many of
the cities of the Union.

I know of no town in the Republic of Mexico, even where
the installation of electric power has been but recently intro-
duced, where the venture has failed to prove successful. At
the large and flourishing town of Leon, in the State of Guana-
juato, it has been in use for a good number of years. At first
the plant was worked by means of a steam-plant, the intro-
duction being effected by Mr. Oscar J. Braniff, who owns the
hacienda of Jalpa in the same State, and not very far from
Leon. When long-distance electric power was installed at
Guanajuato in 1903, Mr. Braniff, by means of an agreement
^th the Guanajuato Light and Power Co., substituted an
entirely new and enlarged plant, the old system being
gradually done away with, and a new 40-kilometre electric
transmission line from Guanajuato installed. At the same
time was adopted an entirely new system of distribution, both
lor light and power, and this has worked, to the present time,
^thout the slightest intermission or accident.

Inasmuch as the City of Leon contains some 80,000 in-
habitants, besides a great many large factories and an
immense number of smaller ones, and as it is the centre of
a busy and prosperous agricultural community, composed of
a host of small farmers who require to pump their supply
of water from the ground, the provisions of electric-power is
bound to prove a highly remunerative enterprise, and,' indeed,
18 increasing in the number of the users daily. Since the
eonmiencement of the new service, some 2 years ago, the
amount of power distributed has been more than doubled,

VOL. n. 25

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50 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

and over 100 meters^ ranging from 2 to 100 h.p.^ are now
working* or are about to commence working.

The Bole owner of this enterprise is Mr. Oscar J. Branifl^ of
Mexico City, and he is now about to organise a small limited
liability Company to acquire the undertaking, since he con-
siders, and very justifiably, that the enterprise, having been
proved to stand upon a solid and paying basis, not only in
regard to its present but also as to its future position, that
it should be ripe for offer to those who require a sound, con-
servative investment The whole of the electrical machinery
is of the celebrated Westinghouse make. Mr. Braniff's firm
(G. and 0. Braniff, of Mexico City) are largely idwitified
with the Westinghouse interests in the Bepublic of Mexica

Leon is the centre of a stirring woollen and cotton manu-
facturing industry, and several factories are run there at
considerable profit. One of these is La Americana, a mill
belonging to an old Mexican lady, Madame Pastille, aged 82,
and employing some 800 men. The management is in the
hands of an Englishman, Mr. William J. Fromow, who hails
from Pembrokeshire. The mill works day and night, turning
out both cloth and yam, known as grey-goods, but in a crude
state only, being sold in this condition, and not even packed.
There are four or five kinds of the cloth manufactured, but
although the opportunity exists of introducing and profitably
working a bleaching plant, the proprietress somewhat unwisely
declines to avail herself of it.

I have often been impressed by the purblindness of some
Mexican manufacturers in this respect, neglecting chances
and refusing suggestions which would profitably employ their
spare floor-space and unused capital. One firm preferred to
keep $260,000 (say £26,000) locked up in the office safe,
earning absolutely nothing, rather than invest it in a new and
economising machine, or to extend the operations of the faotory
in some other equally profitable direction.

This concern pays from 16 to 20 per cent, upon the capital
invested, all the workers being Mexicans, but the machinery
is entirely British. The manufacturers who have assisted to
equip this mill are Brooks and Doxey, West Gorton, Man-
chester; Howard and Bullough, Limited, Accrington; and
John Livesey, Blackburn.

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City of Chilpancingo, State of Guerrero.

City of Cuernavaca showing the volcanoes of Ixttaccihuatl (on the left) and
Popocatepetl (on the right.)

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STATE INDUSTEIES 51

El Progrteo is another factory here which produces various
kinds of woollen goods. It is the property of three brothers
named Padillo, one of whom, the youngest, acts as General
Manager. Many descriptions of blanket, rug and zerape,
the native wrap, the latter being used by every Mexican man,
and rebo8o worn by the women, are produced, and in all
colours of the rainbow, but principally a bright red. Some
parti-coloured and intricately -woven patterns likewise are
tamed out, a workman taking 8 days to make one complete
blanket, measuring 2^ metres in length and 1 metre in width.
The average earning wage of the weavers is $2 (say 4s.)
a day, and there are some 250 men and boys employed at
El Progr^so.

Some of the most elaborate of the zerapSs are made upon
the old style of wooden loom, no machinery yet invented
being capable of turning out this special kind of work.

The factory, although of some years' existence, is a clean
and well-built place, and is efficiently equipped. The
machinery employed is partly British and partly American.
Messrs. Hutchingson, Hollingworth and Co., Ltd., of Doboross,
and Messrs. William Whitely and Sons, of Lockwood, Hudders-
field, have supplied most of the spinning and weaving looms ;
while Messrs. L. J. Enowles and Bros., Rochester, Mass.,
U.SjL, and the Davis and Fresher Machine Company, North
Andover, Mass., have furnished some other machines.

Besides the regular factories, an immense amount of home-
work is done. It may be said with truth that there are but
few drones in Leon, every house having its own staff of
workers, and being a factory in petitOf some turning out
woven or basket goods, others saddles, harness and bridles, as
well as most of the other kinds of elaborate horse equipment
80 dear to the male Mexican heart ; boots, shoes and leathern
goods, and complete costumes in leather for men, consisting
of tif^t-fitting trousers with a multitude of straps from the
thigh down to the ankle, vest with innumerable buttons, and
short Eton jacket with many pockets. These costumes, which
in spite of their light appearance are extremely hot and heavy
to wear, are made in various coloured or undyed leathers,
pale yellow, pink, and red, etc., being the favourites, and

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62 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

thoBe are elaborately trimmed with embroideries, braids and
tassels.

Leon is altogether a rather surprising town. Upon arriving
at the station it is astonishing to be informed that the '' city "
has been reached. There is not a house to be seen, the
station being some four or five kilometres distant. A tram-
line carries the passengers on one car and their luggage on
another over the intervening distance, and gradually the long
straight streets, all at perfectly right angles to one another,
come into view. That the town is a large one may be
believed when it is said that there are 10 di£Eerent plazas,
280 or more public squares, over 600 streets and 7,800
houses. The town is an old one, having been established by
the Spaniards in 1662, and became a full-fledged city in
1810. It possesses several very interesting churches, not the
least of which is the Cathedral, Nuestra Setlora de la Luz, a
church which is 200 ft. long and only 46 ft. wide, crowned
with a fine dome and two lofty towers, the electric lights upon
which can be seen across the perfectly flat country some
40 miles distant. Other churches worth description are those
of Nuestra Soflora de los Angeles, containing some curious
native carvings. La Soledad, San Felipd and San Juan.

The busy citizens may be seen at their tasks squatting
before their doors in small groups, as much as possible being
performed in the open air, and with no attempt at secrecy or
seclusion. A good deal of iron-ware and cutlery are also
made within these domestic walls, after which all goods are
brought to the big wholesale houses, and are there bought at
the regular market price, and promptly paid for.

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CHAPTER XLH

Scats OF HzDALOo : Mining— Agriooltnre — Transport, etc. — Manufactures
— City of Paohnoa— Oovemor Bodrigoez — ^His fostering of edncation
— Government Palace— Tragic history— Feast of Ban Francisco—
American capital invested. Lowxb Califobnia : An unknown
terziiory — Great mineral reeonroee— Absence of capital — Foreign
trade— Principal ports — Steamer conminnication- Lack of raflways —
Pearl fisheries— Petroleum— Value of land— Prospects for settlers.

So far as actual size of territory is concerned^ the State of
Hidalgo is not of first importance, but in most other respects,
and especially that of mining, the State ranks as among the
more interesting and remarkable in the Bepublic. The total
area is but 22,216 square kilometres, while the population
of over 606,000, which, compared with the average of such
States as Chihuahua, Sonora, 6u6rrero, etc., is uncommonly
good. The climate, on the whole, is pleasant and healthful,
especially in the uplands and plateaux, the lower districts
offering a temperate or hot climate at different altitudes.
While there is a large area of mountainous region, with
several prominent peaks, the rivers are few and of but little
consequence, except, perhaps, for irrigation. On the other
hand, there is at least one very beautiful waterfall, that of
the Begla Cascade^ and a fine lake known as Metztitl&n, this
being over 17 kilometres long. There is an exceptionally
large number of mineral springs, some of which are of great
medicinal value.

Of the immense mining resources of Hidalgo and its former
production, especially from Pachuca, the whole world has
heard. The agricultural industry of the State is only of
a little less importance. This comprises practically every
kind of cereal product, as well as coffee, sugar, cotton, tobacco,
maguey and leguminous plants. The State contains some 210

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64 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

plantations, more or less, many of great size and importance,
and these may be classified productively as follows : Cereals,
62; maguey-plantations, 180; sugar-cane, 8; tobacco, 1;
cattle raising, 18.

No one can fail to observe the air of general prosperity of
the State in passing through it, the population generally
seeming to be better off and as a consequence more satisfied,
than in some parts of the Republic already referred to.

In point of communication, the State is exceedingly well
provided, having three different systems running through the
country, viz. the Hidalgo and Nordeste, connecting the capital
of Pachuca with Mexico City, and now forming part of the
National 'Lines'; the Mexican Central and the Mexican
International. In all, this comparatively small State has
nearly 400 kilometres of railway line, with a prospect of still
further extensions in the near future. A tramway system,
at present operated by mules but soon to be electrified, runs
for some 8 or 9 kilometres through the City of Pachuca, in
addition to which there are several small private railway
lines constructed in connection with the various mines in
operation.

Although, as indicated, ^ mining is the main resource of
Hidalgo, manufactures as well as agriculture figure promin-
ently in the State's revenue returns. Cotton and woollen
goods, bricks, tiles, matches, and many other products are
made here; while of the native pulque great quantities are
annually produced and exported to various parts of the
Republic. Some two or three years ago the returns from
this product alone showed 776,886 hectolitres, valued at
$1,096,686. Since that time, however, the output has
materially increased. Cereals reach an aggregate in value
of about $2,760,000 ; sugar-cane products $460,000 ; rum
$198,000 ; tobacco, cotton, etc., are also of some moment.

The capital, Pachuca, is a very quaint and interesting town
with all the characteristics of a MexicGbn mining centre. It
reminds one somewhat of Guanajuato, and I believe that one
day it will again stand forward as one of the richest producers
of minerals in the Republic.

The Governor of the State (Sefior Don Pedro L. Rodriguez)
has devoted a great portion of his time and attention, as

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CITY OP PACHUCA 65

well as no small portion of his personal fortane, to the eanse
of education. Indeed, the arts have no more ardent advo-
cate than he. His own sons have been educated abroad, and
speak English fluently. Every encouragement, consistent
with fairness and sound judgment, are afforded foreign capital
in the State of Hidalgo, and as I have pointed out, American
capital is coming into the State very considerably of late in
connection with mining and other enterprises.

The Spaniards have left here an enviable inheritance in the
form of some fine buildings, together with a collection of
religious edifices of great interest to the archsBologist and
historian. The Governmental palace, which, by-the-bye, was
in some jeopardy of collapsing last year, but which has since
been restored, was once the scene of a ferocious crime, the
owner, a wealthy Spanish Count, having been barbarously
murdered, and his body concealed for some days before dis-
covery was made, the object being to remove an unwelcome
creditor whose demands were found somewhat inconvenient.

Pachuca is remarkable from the fact that, almost alone
among the towns of the Republic, it has houses with chim-
neys. These give the dwellings, with their flat-topped roofs,
a somewhat quaint appearance ; but as it is sometimes very
cold here in winter, these same chimneys mean warmth and
comfort within the houses, and prove very welcome to the
inhabitants.

The time to see Pachuca at its best is at the feast of San
Francisco, which extends from September 80th to October 8th.
Then the whole city gives itself up to feasting and frolic,
gambling, cock-fighting, and the attractions of the bull-ring.
It is a curious sight for the European and the American, and
one but seldom forgotten.

A considerable amount of American capital is invested in
the Pachuca district, but as yet the British holdings, which
were once extremely large, are small, and are still dwindling.
A local hotel is kept by an Englishman named Williams, and
one or two of the mines have British employees; but the
great preponderance of foreign capital is that of Americans,
whose relations with Ithe natives, both official and unofficial,
are of the best possible character.

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66 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

That long, narro^e stretch of land \7hich in form reminds
one of Italy, knoi^n as Lower California, is terra incognita to
the great majority of travellers, and even to a great many
Mexicans. The extreme length of the peninsula is 1,500 kilo-
metres, and, as a consequence, its coast line measures 8,000
kilometres, bordered by a number of small and onimportant
islands. What Nature has bestowed upon it in salt water she
has withheld in regard to fresh ; and, as a matter of fact,
liower California is ^sadly deficient in means of natural or
artificial irrigation. With the exception of the Colorado
Biver in the north, and several small streams in the central
and south part of the peninsula, there is practically no water
to be found. As a consequence the majority of the land is
sterile, and affords little opportunity for agriculture until a
system of irrigation has been found practicable.

A natural product is archil, a kind of Spanish moss used
for dyeing purposes, which grows profusely throughout an
extensive belt upon the upper part of the west coast, and
in which a considerable local and foreign trade is done.
Henequ6n, which is generally grown in arid districts, is found
in the central regions, while hemp is cultivated near the
Colorado River.

The climate is hot and dry in the north, and temperate
towards the south. The total area of the peninsula is
161,109 square kilometres, but a very small proportion of
this great stretch of territory is cultivated. The great future
for Lower California, in my opinion, lies in her almost un-
known treasure in both mineral products and precious stones.
Apart from gold, silver, copper, lead, gypsum and coal, great
quantities of different kinds of precious stones have been
found, but unfortunately these have been discovered generally
in such small sizes and so broken and otherwise injured, that
they have found practically no market value. Nevertheless,
throughout the country may be seen strong surface indications
of the presence of many kinds of precious gems, such as
hyacinths, beryls and garnets, as well as onyx, opals and
great quantities of beautiful marble. Gems from Lower
California are continually being shipped to the London
market, and fetch there fair prices ; but of the great number
which come over here, only a very few are considered market-

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LOWEE CALIFORNIA 67

able. Hitherto minisg has been carried on in the most
primitive manner, which may be explained by the fact that
very close to the surface are encountered hard rock ledges,
for which the instruments hitherto used are useless. Never-
theless it is believed that in some districts stores of rich gems
are hidden ; but up till now no serious attempt to mine them
has been made.

The foreign trade of the Territory is conducted through
the Custom-houses of La Paz, San Jos6 del Cabo, Santa
Bosalia, and Todos Santos. As yet, trade is on a very
modest scale, the combined imports not exceeding S2,600,000
(Mex.) and exports $1,920,000 (Mex.). But, then, the en-
tire population does not exceed 48,000. There are, strictly
speaking, no railways on the peninsula, for the two small
Bteam-trams, one belonging to El Progr6so Mining Co.,
measuring 10 kilometres, and the other belonging to El
Boleo Mining Co., measuring 8 kilometres, scarcely count.
Steamer communication is also rare and very uncertain, but
several lines of boats advertise a service between the ports of
the peninsula, there being 6 Mexican and 1 American vessel
engaged in the coast trade. The principal City, as well as the
chief port, is La Paz, capital of the southern district, and
oontains a little over 6,000 inhabitants, the only other large
town being Ensenada de Todos Santos, situated in the
northern district, and having about 2,000 inhabitants. The
peninsula is divided into two districts, the northern and the
Bouthem, the latter being subdivided into two partidos and
seven municipalities.

Poor as business affairs have generally been in this part of
the Republic during the last few years, they declined still
more in the year 1906-1906, due in great measure to the con-
tinuance of the drought. It is astounding what a different
aspect the country presents after a liberal season of rain. Then
it is literally covered from end to end with splendid pastures,
and resembles one vast, green prairie. So severe, however,
iras the drought to which I have referred that scarcely any
eattle now remain, and in all probability it will take another
three or four years before the normal state of affairs is restored.

Baja, or Lower California, should be well worth exploitation
in spite of its many drawbacks, since, in addition to its

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68 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

agricalttiral possibilities (always supposing that irrigation
could be resorted to), it has some mines of great promise. I
believe that, were a careful and systematic prospecting of
Lower California undertaken, some surprising developments
would show themselves. The minerals consist principally of
gold, silver and copper, and as claims can be picked up at
a very nominal price, this should be found a good field. Up
till now, however, few people, as I have observed, have found
their way to this district. The nearest railway communication
is some 200 miles from Guaymas, which is the terminal of the
Sonora Railway.

The pearl fisheries which are carried-on on the coast have
so far met with very fair results, and the cultivation of the
mother-of-pearl oyster is proving so encouraging that in a few
years the production should be greatly extended, and offer a
fair speculative opportunity for capital. The shells in which
the pearls are found are of good commercial quality, and would
be found serviceable in shell-button factories. Petroleum is
also at hand, strong indications of oil being found on the west
coast, and oil has been detected on the waters at various
places round about. One serious attempt was made to
prospect for oil in the district of La Paz, but the machinery
broke down, and instead of oil a large flow of artesian water
was started, which rather astonished the experts, who believed
that no water was to be found in this neighbourhood. The
price of land is very low in Lower California, and if a series
of artesian wells were sunk, I feel assured that effective and
systematic irrigation could be introduced, for the soil responds
to treatment in the most generous style. Richer land could
not be found anywhere, and cereals, fruits and sugar cane
in unlimited quantities could be cultivated and even a market
found for them.

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CHAPTER XLin

Statb of Jalisco : Biohnees of territory — Sugar growing — Cotton cultiva-
tion — Some notable factories — ^Agriculture — Railway facilities and ex-
tensions — Distilleries — Government taxation — Governor Colonel
Ahmnada— Pablio education — Schools — Life in the City of Gnadslaj ara
— A clean and attractive city — ^Native population — Cost of living —
Plazas and public edifices— Peons and orderliness — Churches— Besorts
—Lake Chiapas— Bibera Castellanos— Beauties of scenery— Paradise
for artists.

Thb State of Jalisco ranks next in importance to that of the
State of Mexico^ which contains the capital City of Tolaca and
the Federal capital, Mexico City. The population of Jalisco
is 1,300,000, the capital, Guadalajara, claiming 102,850
inhabitants. The entire State covers an area of 86,762
square kilometres, and has a coast line of 600 kilometres.
Almost every variety of mountain scenery can be found in
Jalisco, some of the most famous mountains, such as Tapalpa,
Tigre, Nevado and the famous volcano Golima, being within
its borders. The mountains form a veritable network of
spurs and isolated peaks, and are known as the Sierra Madre
range. In between nestle the picturesque and fertile valleys
of varying altitudes and extent, no State in the BepubUc
probably possessing a more enviable territory, nor one better
watered by natural lakes and rivers. Neither can any other
State lay claim to a greater variety ol fauna 9xlA florae while
the peculiar topographical conditions which prevail, embracing
a wide variety of climates, render this region one of the richest
agricultural sections of the country.

Sugar is one of the leading products of the State, the annual
output reaching 12,000 tons of refined sugar and 10,000 tons
of raw sugar, worth respectively about £600,000 ($2,500,000
U.S. Cy., or $5,000,000 Mex. Cy.) and £240,000 ($1,200,000

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60 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

U.S. Cy., or $2,400,000 Mex. Cy.)- In the District of Cooola
alone, which is situated in the temperate zone, there is an
annual production of 10,000 tons of sugar, which is three
times larger than that of the entire State of Veracruz. There
is one hacienda situated in this district which has realised
a profit from sugar cultivation of $1,600,000 (Mex. Cy.) in one
year. The State of Mordos alone exceeds that of Jalisco in its
sugar production. The cane grows with great rapidity in this
part of the country, and once planted it need not be renewed for
eight or ten years. In some other States, such as Mor^los and
Zacatecas, on the contrary, where the cane only grows by means
of artificial irrigation, it must be replanted every two years.
Cattle-raising is also carried on to great advantage and profit,
although this industry can only be considered as yet in its
infancy. There is a considerable number of large ranches or
farms in this State, many of which constantly employ between
500 and 600 labourers and from 200 to 800 horses and moles
in their daily operations.

Among the State's other products the cultivation of cotton
is actively pursued, and I am inclined to think that in Jalisco
could be grown the finest cotton in the world, while no need to
export it would arise, since the demand of the Mexican cotton
manufacturing industry, which has enormously developed
during the last few years, would absorb all that would offer, a
fact which is clearly apparent when it is stated that the
demand for the raw material is so great that nearly 70 per
cent, of that consumed is brought in from the United States.

Several thousands of Mexican peons are employed in the
cotton factories in Guadalajara, among which La Gompania
Industrial Manufacturera, with a capital of $4,000,000
(Mex.), holds premier place. The mill is at a little distance
from tiie city, and possesses 750 looms. The machinery is
run by electricity, generated by the famous JuanacatUn water-
falls. The principal product is '' manta," or unbleached linen,
for which there is a constantly increasing demand. In another
direction, also close to the City, are the mills of La Compafiia
Industrial de Guadalajara, having a capital of $2,000,000
(Mex.), and owning the factories of Atemajac and Experi-
encia. The first contains 164 and the second 180 looms, all
of which, with the attendant machinery, are of British manu-

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JALISCO INDUSTRIES 61

factare. Two other factories of only slightly less importance
are those of Escoba and Rio Blanco.

The principal agricultural productions of the country,
aocording to official statistics of a few years back, showed
that cereals reached $20,200,000, com being the largest item,
and represented by nearly $19,000,000 ; sugar-cane products
were valued at $900,000; alcohol at $1,000,000; pulque,
$8,100,000; maguey, $140,000; coffee, $160,000; and tobacco,
$124,000. All these figures are in Mexican currency.

The mining industry of Jalisco is one of the most impor-
tant in the Republic, and I deal fully with the subject
elsewhere.

Jalisco for many years was famous for the nxmxber of
alcohol distilleries which existed. This year, however, the
foiling off in the output of tequila will be considerable, owing
to the continued high price of com, the principal ingredient.
Last year the alcohol manufactured in the State amounted
to 500,000 gallons, the industry paying over $89,000 (Mex.)
in taxes. This year the production is estimated at but 886,000
gallons, and the dues assessed will amount to a little over
$80,000 (Mex.). In the whole State there are about 167
alcohol manufactories, and out of these 80 are now idle. In
Guadalajara alone there are, or were, 61 distilleries, and out
of these 21 have been compelled to close down. So far as the
moral and physical effect upon the peon population is con-
cerned, the depression in the alcohol business is not to be
regretted.

Unfortunately the system of railways at present constructed
is wholly insufficient for the demands of the State, but
several new concessions have recently been granted, and
active construction is going on in many directions. The
main line of the Mexican Central passes through the north-
eastern portion of the State, a branch line running through
Lagos to La Barca, Guadalajara, and Ameca. It is intended
to extend this branch ultimately to the Pacific coast, thus
opening up a region rich in forests and agricultural and
mineral wealth.

The Central Railway is also constructing a line from its
present terminus at Tuxpan to the City of Colima, in the
neighbouring State of that name, which, linking up the miss-

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62 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

ing portion bet^eeen Toxpan and Colima, will thus provide
direct oommunication from the Golf-side of the Republic at
Tampico to the Pacific-side at the Port of Manzanillo. The
construction of the splendid harbour at this latter port, at the
instance of the Mexican Government, together with a plate
showing the plan of the harbour, the breakwater and the
varying depths of the bay, will be found in YoL I.,
Chapter XXXV.

Guadalajara possesses a very enterprising City Council, the
City Fathers giving much of their time and attention to the
interests of the community at large. There is very little that
escapes their notice, from the cleaning of the roads to the
imposition of taxes on automobiles, and, however much the
inhabitants may '^kick" against the sometimes embarrass-
ingly close attention paid to their afEairs, there can be no
question that the City, as a whole, benefits enormously. The
Council has an ordinance, for instance, limiting the speed of
automobiles to 12 kilometres an hour, that is to say, about
7^ miles. The ordinances also provide that the machine shall
be registered and numbered. In compensation for this, how-
ever, the Council help to maintain a magnificent system of
city roadways, while the Legislature holds all members of the
Automobile Club of Guadalajara exempt from the State and
municipal taxes on their machines. This may be regarded as
a qvid pro quo for the enterprise of the Automobile Club in
improving and maintaining, at its own expense, the country
roads leading into the State of Jalisco. The Governor of the
State is President of the Club, and takes a lively interest in its
proceedings.

The Council has a prompt and effective way of dealing with
recalcitrant owners of property. The principal theatre of
Guadalajara was closed by order of the Council on account of
bad sanitary conditions, the owner of the building being given
a limited time in which to remedy the sanitary defects. And
they were remedied.

Education here, as throughout Mexico, is entirely free, and
the very best curriculum that could be devised is in force.
From March 1st to September 80th the school hours are from
8 a.m. to 12 noon and from 8 p.m. to 6 p.m. During the
remaining months of the year the hours are from 9 a.m. to

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EDUCATION IN JALISCO 68

1 pjn. and from 8 p.iiL to 5 p.m. EzaminationB are held each
year from April 15th to April SOth, the vacation season
extending from the latter date to July 16th.

The number of public schools in the State exceed 660» not
reckoning the several Church and private establishments. The
schools last year had something like 87,000 pupils, the average
daily attendance being 42,460. For the same period the
number of scholars attending the religious and private schools
amounted to 28,805. The Government of the State expends
more than $600,000 (Mex.) or £60,000 annually upon the
maintenance of its scholastic establishments, which, I may add,
embrace a number devoted to higher education, such as the
College of Medicine and Pharmacy, the Law School, the
Lyceum and the Normal School.

The Governor of Jalisco, Colonel Miguel Ahumada, has
probably done more for the whole State in general and for
Guadalajara in particular, than any of his predecessors.
Fortunately for Jalisco, the Governor was re-elected recently
for a further period of office, his new term opening on March Ist,
1907. Colonel Ahumada was first elected Governor of Jalisco
in December, 1902, immediately after he had resigned the
governorship of Chihuahua. He was inaugurated for his
first term of office on March 1st, 1908, and since he has
assumed office he has made a good record, winning the entire
confidence and esteem of the peopla He takes the keenest
interest in education, and it was mainly owing to his efforts
that the excellent Jalisco Commercial and Industrial school for
girls was established in Gnadalajara.

The Governor has also given his support to the erection
of a new market-building, which is costing $88,000 (Mex.),
the construction being of steel and stone throughout Indeed,
there is scarcely any enterprise having for its object the
improvement of living conditions in the State to which the
Governor does not give his adherence.

Colonel Miguel Ahumada was for 12 years Governor of the
State of Chihuahua, and under his auspices the State made
rapid advances both agriculturally and industrially. His
excellency is now 65 years of age, and for nearly a quarter-
of-a-century has been in the Republic's service. He was bom
in the neighbouring State of Colima, and as a young man he

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64 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

fought with considerable distinction in the war of the French
intervention. In the early days of the Diaz administration,
he went to Sonora, where he became identified with the Fiscal
GoideSy and was noted for his bravery and extremely firm
handling of the roving criminals who infested that country,
giving them no quarter and eventually completely extermin-
ating the breed. It is worthy of remark that in the fiscal year
1906-6, the property transfers in the State of Jalisco under
Governor Ahumada's rule, reached the value of $80,000,000
(Mex.), an increase of $10,000,000 (Mex.) compared with the
preceding fiscal year.

Another zealous official is the Jef6 Politico (the second
highest authority of the place), among whose most recent ac-
complishments is a complete reorganisation of the police-force
of Guadalajara. The police are enlisted upon the same terms
as the military, namely, for a term of two years. Candidates
must be between the ages of 21 and 56 years, and they have
to pass a good physical examination and be able to read and
write. Personal bonds for clothing and arms are demanded,
while constant drill and instruction in accordance with
military tactics are specified. The pay of the police is but $1
a day (2s.), and only the best men available are accepted.

Life in Guadalajara is extremely agreeable. The inhabi-
tants, both native and foreign, are a genial lot, and gaiety
reigns supreme. Like most Mexicans, the good people of
Guadalajara are fond of dancing, and both at the American
Club and the Spanish and Mexican Clubs subscription dances
are much in vogue. With the several theatres, public
concerts twice a week, Sunday bull -fights, the numerous
libraries and various clubs, existence in Guadalajara passes
along smoothly and profitably.

Presenting all the appearances of a well-to-do and pros-
perous city, it is but right that Guadalajara's inhabitants
should share in that appearance. This they do by wearing
cleaner and brighter garments than one generally sees in
Mexican towns, outside of Mexico City itself. Tatters and
rags, so general throughout the Republic, and which are worn
by the peons apparently without any concern, are conspicuous
by their absence in Guadalajara. Moreover, the male peons
display a certain amount of pride and independence, unlike

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GUADALAJARA 65

thai noticed in any other city which I visited. Their oostames,
especially on Sundays and feast-days, are as smart as they
are pictiuresqne, and the sombreros worn are both larger and
more cmnbersome than the majority. One of these ponderous
head -coverings which I measured exceeded 88 inches in
diameter, and could not have weighed much less than 1 lb.
The wearer {effected a pair of lavender-coloured trousers, per-
fectly tight from the hips downwards, split up from the ankle
to the knee and fastened around the leg by a number of large
brass hooks and eyes. There was no jacket, the wearer
appearing in a balloon-shaped pink cotton shirt and pink collar,
but without a tie. His feet were encased in very dirty and
much-worn leather sandals; and naturally he carried his
indispensable blanket, locally termed a ''zerap6," in this
case of a bright green hue with a fringe of yellow tassels.
Usually these articles are of a bright red, but the colour
varies according to the taste of the particular owner.

The hundreds of parti-coloured costumes, the bright hues
of the women's dresses — ^pale blue, pink, buttercup-yellow,
mauve, crimson and white, against a perpetual background
of vivid green trees and grass-plots, the brilliantly-coloured
house-signs and innumerable waving national flags of red,
green and white, form a kaleidoscope of moving colour
remarkably pleasing to the eye. It forms a scene which, it
is true, may be witnessed in almost any Mexican city or
town, but more vividly and impressively here than in most.

Although there is a good mule- drawn tramway service
(shortly to be converted to an electrically -operated line),
Guadalajara possesses but a limited cab service. What public
vehicles there are, are well-appointed and well-horsed; but
there are so few of them that it is difficult to find a coach
when wanted. Fortunately, the principal hotels — the Frances,
the Garcia and the Cosmopolita — ^are located close to the station
of the Central Railway and in the centre of the city, the last-
named hotel adjoining the terminus. The Frances maintains
a private omnibus, and earns the gratitude of its many
patrons thereby.

The cost of living in Ouadalajara is low. The hotel rates
are from $8 to $5 (Mex.) per day (say 6s. to 10s.) ; provisions
are from 10 per cent, to 15 per cent, lower than in Mexico
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66 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

City ; rents are as yet reasonable* and the public services of
water, gas, and electric light are no less so. Taxation cannot
be called anything but moderate, and the city receives ample
return in the form of an excellent municipal government, a
diligent police service, and a perfectly pure and sufficient
water-supply.

Next to Mexico City, no more excellent roads exist anywhere
in the Republic than in Guadalajara. Most of them are
composed of asphalte, but several are of good macadam. The
side-walks are mostly concrete, protected by iron hollow
skirtings. There being an ample drainage and a good faU,
the city is quite free from flood or defective drainage during
the rainy season. If the streets are somewhat too narrow
and the buildings, as a consequence, rather too close to one
another, the residents derive an advantage from the abundant
shade which is thus provided. Ancient Spain, and all tropical
cities and towns of to-day, are built in this manner, which,
however, does not find favour with Western ideas of good
sanitation and convenience.

Guadalajara is particularly fortunate in the number and
attractiveness of its plazM. The principal one is a delightful
resort built after the usual Spanish-American plan, with the
Government Palace occupying one side of the Square, the
Cathedral another, and business buildings the other two.
The middle space is thickly planted with orange-trees, semi-
tropical plants, and well-laid-out flower-beds. The inevitable
music-stand and numerous banks of seats are well patronised,
the whole population promenading or seating themselves here
of an evening and upon Sundays and feast-days. None of
the flower-beds are fenced in, as with European public gardens,
the people carefully abstaining from plucking the blossoms or
doing any other kind of damage to the public property, of
which they, indeed, constitute themselves the unpaid but no
less zealous guardians.

I have always been greatly impressed with the orderly
manner in which the peon class — forming by far the greater
portion of the population in all the cities and towns of the
Republic — conduct themselves, and the infrequency of
rowdyism among them. They indulge in quiet conversations,
and very little horse-play, the principal disturbing noises

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LAKE CHAPALA 67

emanating from the moltitade of newspaper-boys who in
GnadalAJara, as in Quanajuato, are allowed to exercise their
powerful young lungs at all hours of the day and night
unchecked.

Guadalajara, viewed from the favourable vantage-ground of
the roof of the Cathedral, presents the appearance of a hand-
somely and regularly built city, nestling comfortably in a
vivid sheet of green verdure, backed by the velvety hills,
which gradually grow higher and higher as they recede
into purple mountains. The spires of the 47 different
churches gleam and scintillate in the sparkling sunshine,
their many-coloured domes and white belfries adding fresh
colour and beauty to the scene. Above all the deep blue
of the sky, and below the multicoloured raiment of the
people, the many green spots formed by the plaztu and the
tree-tops of the numerous patios with which the City's fine
houses are provided, lend much beauty to the cowp d'ceU.

The climate is a superb one in every repect, the tempera-
ture varying but little from season to season, but nevertheless
necessitating a blanket or two at night all the year round.
At an elevation of some 5,000 feet above sea-level, Guadala-
jara possesses one of the most invigorating and delightful
temperatures in the world.

A very favourite resort with all who come to Mexico as
visitors, as well as with the good people of Guadalajara itself,
is Ghapala.

Upon the emerald shores of this Lake, at the foot of a
gentle grassy slope, is the small but very comfortable cottage
residence known as Bibera Castellanos. Here jaded and
OYcrworked visitors from Guanajuato, Guadalajara and
Mexico City may come and enjoy a complete and delightful
rest at the extremely moderate cost of $8.00 or $4.00 (say 6s.
or 8s.) a day, which modest terms include a comfortable bed-
room, full board, baths in the Lake, and the use of a well-
famished reception-room. The Cottage, which has at present
but seventeen or eighteen rooms, is to be enlarged, I under-
stand. It is owned by a small company in which Mr. Dwight
Fumess, of Guanajuato, is the principal holder ; and besides
the house there is an extensive agricultural estate, with dairy
and attractive gardens. Bibera Castellanos is reached by a

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68 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

Bteam laonoh from Ocotlfin, whence it is distant but 80 minutes,
and from Chapala the run is about 6 hours across the full
width of the Lake.

The sportsman can revel in a plenitude of wild duck, cranes,
and occasionally wild geese and other water-fowl. The fishing,
however, is poor, and strangely enough the Lake yields up
little or nothing fit for the table.

The artist is fortunate in finding an ample and ever-
changing field for his brush upon Lake Chapala and its neigh-
bourhood. Here such sunrises and sunsets are to be seen as
few other parts of the world can offer, and the marvel to me is
that so few painters avail themselves of the unrivalled oppor-
tunities which exist here. No brush could do the beauties of
Lake Chapala real justice ; but some idea of the rare colour-
ing and unique lights and shadows might perhaps be afforded
by the careful and capable student.

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CHAPTEB XLIV

State or Mbzioo: City of Tolno»— Beantifnl Boexiio snrrotmdingB —
Fertility of country — Mountains — Popocatepetl and Ixtaodhnail —
Poverty nnknown — ^Agriculture — Stock-breeding — Mining industries
— Railway accommodation — Mexico City Boad. Statb or
MighoaoAn: Fauna and flora — Manufactures and mining — British
capital — History of Mordlos — City of Mor^lia — Interesting associa-
tions — Architecture. Statb or MobAlos: Beautiful Guemavaoa —
Sugar production — Cereals — Railway acconmiodation — ^Attractions of
neighbourhood — Governor Alaroon.

In spite of the faet that the State of Mexico compriBes both
the Federal Capital (Mexico City) and the State Capital
(Toluca), it is not^ geographically speaking, a large State,
bat it is fairly well-populated, and embraces within its limits
the beautiful vaUeys of Mexico and Toluca, which are classed
amongst the most fertile and productive in the Bepublic. As
immediate neighbours it has the States of Hidalgo on the
north, Tlaxcala and Pu^bla on the east, Mor^los on the south
and south-east, Guerrero on the south and south-west, and
Ifichoacto on the west. The Federal District, which contains
Mexico City, lies to the east.

Toluca, the capital city of the State of Mexico, is a delight-
fnl place of residence, somewhat reminiscent of Paris or
Brussels, upon a very much smaller scale. It is, moreover,
a remarkably clean and well-kept city, and the road thither
from Mexico City is the one great automobile highway, being
from end to end equal to anything found in England or
France for smoothness and good maintenance, while its
seenie attractions are infinitely more beautiful than anything
which the Old World has to offer. Toluca is situated about
midway between the cold and the hot country, possessing the
manifold advantages of both and the drawbacks of neither.
Its elevation is 8,617 feet above the sea.

69

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70 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

Although lying Bomewhat higher than Mexico City (7,800
feet), the approach to Toluca is first down, then up, and then
again down into the beautiful Valley of Mexico ; part of that
priceless possession was bestowed by King Charles Y • of Spain
upon the Conqueror Cortes. Fair, indeed, looks the peaceful
plain into which the train or the automobile drops, as the
road over the hills commences to unwind itself, like a
sinuous white and green snake, just as fascinating and just
as beautiful The hills then yield pride of place to the once-
dreaded but now extinct volcano of Xinantecatl, towering into
the sky some 16,166 feet, as estimated by Yon Humboldt, and I
tapering to a perfect cone, which is barely 10 feet wide at its
summit.

Everywhere around is perpetual verdure, verdure of the
most exquisite tints and shades of green, ranging from the
deepest sage to the translucent lettuce hue, the fields and
hedgerows being carpeted with flowers of every conceivable
colour and tint. The lights and shadows of the sun, almost
perpetually shining in this region, are influenced by the
beautiful Sierras, which, indeed, are never out of sight from
the moment one leaves the City of Mexico until one reaches
Toluca itself.

Cloudless, clear and beautiful, the vaulted heavens look
down upon the matchless charm of the plain, the mountains,
in the near distance, lending a violet-hued framework to the
whole exquisite setting. At eventide, their majestic summits
are fretted with deep golden lights, shifting, scintillating,
fading into deep and yet deeper purples, as the dying sun
slowly sinks behind them, leaving, however, in his wake a
rippling sea of living crimson flre — flaming pennons to
announce his glorious reappearance on the morrow.

Then comes the no less beautiful night, brooding over the
Yalley of Toluca, balmy, soft and delicious, when '^ heaven's
ebon vault, studded with stars unutterably bright, through
which the moon's unclouded grandeur rolls, seems like a
canopy which love has spread to curtain her sleeping
world."

To the artist and the lover of Nature in her most sublime
moments, the Toluca country is irresistible. In my memory,
the journey thither, made several times and always witii

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Pki>te. by P S. Cox.

On the road to Toluca, State of Mexico.

Pkete by P. S, Cox.

On the road to Toluca, State of Mexico.

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TOLUCA 71

renewed pleasare and the deepest impressionB, lingers yet as
one of the most delightful of my Mexican experiences.

It is not at all difficult to understand how the State of
Mexico, with Toluca for its centre, comes to be one of the
most prosperous in the Bepublic. It occupies one of the most
fertile portions of the country, practically every square foot of
ground being cultivated, and in the most intelligent maimer.
The actual amount of territory comprising the State is
certainly not large, but it is very well populated and very
favourably situated. Any description which I could give of
the topography of the State of Mexico must be very inade-
quate. It is, however, no exaggeration to say that it occupies
one of the most exquisitely beautiful positions that can be
seen in any part of the world. The whole of the northern
portion of the State, that adjoining Hidalgo, is a rolling
grass-covered plain, intersected by a succession of low foot-
hniB and dotted with salt-lakes and rich marsh-lands, the
haunts of countless aquatic birds, which afford excellent
sport. Here, also, flourish the cactus and the agave in all
their luxuriance and brilliant colouring. The eastern portion,
adjoining Tlaxcala and Pu6bla, is covered by a mountain
range, of which the famous Popocatepetl, 17,782 feet high, the
highest in the Bepublic, is the crowning glory. Within a
range of, say, a hundred miles, one can see Nature in almost
all her different phases — ^forest, plain, snow-covered moun-
tains, smoking volcanoes, fertile lands and flowing rivers.

Besides the majestic Popocatepetl, of which one obtains a
superb view at most times, but at its best at sunrise, there is
the hardly less beautiful Ixtaccihuatl, 16,060 feet high, and the
AjuBCo range, which define the border of the Valley of Mexico^
the loftiest peak of which stands 18,612 feet high. To the
north, again, are the Sierra de Guadalupe ; while to the north-
west rises the snow-topped volcano of Toluca, the celebrated
Xinantecatl already mentioned, with two lakes of potable
water contained within its crater. What more superb setting
for so fair a picture could be found ; and were not the ancient
Aztecs well advised to pitch their tent within such lovely
surroundings ?

Practically, poverty is unknown in the peaceful Valley of
Toluca, although it can be very cold here in the winter

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72. MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

months, the elevation, it must be remembered, being
8,617 feet above Bea-level. Agricultnre flourisheB, cereals,
leguminous plants and spices, as i^ell as rice, coffee, sugar,
linseed, tobacco and the maguey plant growing well. The
average value of such produce averages $12,000,000 Mez.
(say, j£l,200,000) per annum, which, considering that the
entire population of the State of Mexico is but 26,000, is a
sufficiently good result. By far the largest crop grown is that
of cereals, amounting to over $8,760,000 ; sugar-cane comes
next, representing about $118,000; sugar-cane rum « $116,000;
pulque (made from the maguey plant) « $460,0(X) ; and
another by-product, also gathered from the useful maguey,
and known as " tlachique," equalling $1,660,000.

Cattle-breeding is as yet only in its infancy, but neverthe-
less amounts to some $17,(X)0,(X)0 in value annually, sheep,
oxen, pigs, goats, horses, asses and mules all doing un-
commonly well, as anyone travelling through the district by
train can easily see for himself.

The State of Mexico has yet to earn its laurels as a mining
centre, many of the enterprises having so far proved disap-
pointing. Under '* Mining " fuller particulars of this industry
will be found, together with a list of the principal mines at
present in operation.

Probably no State in the Republic is better supplied with
good roads — ^not by any means a characteristic of Mexico as
a whole — ^than this. The majority are excellent, one in
particular, the main road from the Capital, being unsurpassed
anywhere in Europe. Railway communication is also very
good, no fewer than three great lines running through the
State, namely the National, the International, and the Inter-
oceanic. Additionally, there are three other lines, which
serve a small portion of the State, namely the Central, with
about 66 kilometres of track, the Toluca and Tenango (30 kilo-
metres) and the Toluca and San Juan de las Huertas (16 kilo-
metres). The various street railways amount to little more
than 40 kilometres in length, at present ; but further develop-
ment is contemplated. There is a fairly good service of
telegraph and telephone communication, while the postal
arrangements are particularly efficient

Of industries there are quite a number, these including,

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STATE OP MICHOACAN 78

befiideB a brewery, famous for its particular brands all over
tbeBepablic, a bottle factory (belonging to the same company),
cotton-factories, woollen-mills, brick-yards, dairy produce,
such as cream, cheese and butter, pottery, and pulque manu-
facture. Labour for all these enterprises is so far abundant,
and seems likely to remain so, since the working classes,
feeling perfectly content, as, indeed, they should, with the
opportunities and resources provided by their very favoured
State, exhibit little of that roving disposition noticeable among
the inhabitants of other States, and yield but reluctantly and
rarely to the wiles of the emigration agent.

The State of Michoac&n de Ocampo is recognised as one of
the richest, as it is one of the most scenically-beautiful divi-
sions of the Republic. It has for its neighbours the States of
Guanajuato, Mexico, Quer^taro, Guerrero, Golima and Jalisco,
and within its 65,698 square kilometres of area may be found
superb mountain ranges, immensely rich in vegetation, and a
eoast-line, generally low, measuring some 168 kilometres in
extent There are numerous excellent rivers as well as lakes,
the most famous among the latter being Ghapala with a
superficial area of 1,580 square kilometres, one-sixth belong-
ing to the State of Michoacan and five-sixths to the State of
Jalisco. Elsewhere in this volume will be found a photograph
and some fuller particulars of this beautiful lake, which is
becoming more and more a favourite resort for American and
other visitors to and residents in Mexico. During the earth-
quake visit of last April the lake underwent a curious physical
change, the northern portion, which had hitherto been the
deepest, rising, and the southern part, which had always been
the shallowest, becoming very deep, thus indicating that the
seismatio movement had been from south to north instead of,
as is usually the case, from east to west.

For a considerable time a furious dispute raged between
the States of Michoacto and Guerrero, dating back to 1894,
when the government of Michoac&n raised the question as to
the ownership of territory, in virtue of the fact that it formed
part of the old Province of Yalladolid, and that it had also
lonued part of Michoac&Q since its organisation into a State.
Guerrero, on the other hand, claimed that since its organisation,

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74 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTUBY

as far back as 1849, it had ezereised anthority and jorisdiction
within the disputed territory, and had collected taxes. In
the end President Diaz had to arbitrate at the request of the
OovemorSy and he readjusted the State boundaries, following
as far as possible the natural formation of the country. The
result of the decision was that Michoac&n ceded to Guerrero
the municipality of Zidaro and part of that of Pungarabato,
while Guerrero ceded to Michoac&n all the territory which she
had hitherto possessed on the right-bank of the river Balsas,
between that and Nexpa. The decision of the President
afforded general satisfaction to both States, as most of his
Excellency's wise judgments do.

Michoadui is rich both in fauna sjid flora of every descrip-
tion. Its resources are principally agricultural, its products
including cereals, canary-seed, sesame and linseed; coffee,
the best of which comes from the District of Uruap&n, but,
although very highly valued both in the Republic and abroad,
it is very small in quantity ; vanilla, rubber and tobacco, sugar-
cane, fruits of all kinds, and a variety of cabinet woods. Its
cereals may be taken to represent an annual value of some
£1,600,000 ($16,000,000 Mex. Gy.), among which com stands
first, wheat, sugar-cane, alcohol, maguey, coffee and tobacco
ranking in the order named. The annual valuation of agri-
cultural products varies from £1,500,000 to £1,600,000 (equal
to $16,000,000 to $16,000,000 Mex. Gy.). The live-stock value
of the State is estimated at about $20,000,000 (Mex. Gy.) inthe
following order : — beef -cattle, sheep, horses, hogs, goats, mules
and asses. The total trade of the State may be estimated at
about $66,(X)0,(KX) annually, which includes the product of
the mines, of which I make special mention elsewhere. The
manufacturing industries are confined mainly to the produc-
tion of cotton and silk shawls, cotton and woollen goods,
palm-hats, lace and embroideries, sugar-cane products,
pulque-mescal, cheese, wax matches and beer. The Govern-
ment is encouraging the culture of olive-trees and grape-
vines, and hopes that something substantial may result.

English capital is interested in an undertaking which has
secured from the Government of Michoac&n a concession for
a line to extend from the terminus of the National Bailroad
at Uruap&n to the western border of Michoac&n. The idea is

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mSTOBY OF MORilLOS 76

to oontinue the line to the Paeifio port of Manzanillo, in the
State of Golima, and the project has abeady secared a State
eonoession for the line, which will be an extension of that of
the El Oro Mining and Railway Co., whose line passes to
Agangueo through Telalpujahoa.

Next to the beloved Hidalgo, there is no more revered name
m the Republic of Mexico than that of Jo86 Maria Mor6los, after
whom the city of Mor^Iia, Miohoadm, was named. He also
ms a priest, being cnrate of the town of Nucupetaro ; and aban-
doned the crosier for the crowbar, following his rector, Hidalgo,
in his fierce bat futile fight against the Spanish dominion.

In July 1811, when Hidalgo had already paid the penalty
of death for his patriotism, Job6 Maria Mor6los was at the
height of his military glory. His campaigns were mainly
conducted in the south and west of the country, and for a
time his triumphs completely paralysed the Spaniards' power.
His principal victories were his escape from the town of
Cnantla, with some 5,500 followers, while closely besieged by
the redoubtable Spanish (General, Galleja, from February 19th
to May 2nd, 1812 ; his capture of the town of Orizaba, in the
State of Yeracruz, in October 1812 ; the taking of Oaxaca on
the following November 26th, and the storming and capture
of Acapuloo on August 20th the following year (1818).

So far did Mor^los pursue his successes, that he actually
succeeded in establishing a temporary ** Government," called
a meeting of Congress at Chilpancingo, abolished slavery,
forbade the collection of tithes for religious purposes, and
issued one of the many ** Declarations of Independence " with
which Mexico has been favoured. This was dated the ** 6th of
November 1818."

Mordlos, however, did not long enjoy his successes. (General
Agustin de Tturbide, at that time a Spanish officer, and loyal to
his King, and who was himself destined to fall a victim to his
own ambition some years later, went out against the priest-
warrior and defeated him, first at Yalladolid in December 1818,
and again at Puruacan, on January 16th, 1814. Morales
ionnd a refuge at Acapulco, from which place he again went
out to do battle with the Spanish troops, and soon afterwards
he found his Sedan at Texmalca. Treachery on the part of
one of his followers proved his undoing. He was betrayed to

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76 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTUBY

the royalist troops, brought to Mexico City, where he was tried
and condemned by the Holy Inquisition as ** an onconfessed
heretic and traitor to QoA, the King and the Pope," and was
publicly shot on December 22nd, 1816, in the 60th year of
his age.

Great reverence is shown to his mortal remains, which
repose in the Cathedral of Mexico City, distinguished by a
handsome monument chronicling his services to the cause of
the Bepublic which he never lived to see established. In the
little town of Nucupetaro, where he formerly officiated as
curate, the ornaments and priestly garments belonging to
Mor^los have been zealously guarded by the Indians for years.
The custodian is an old man — ^in fact, the oldest man in the
town — who is called upon to solenmly swear to keep them
carefully until he dies.

It would be untrue to describe Mor6lia, the Capital of the
State of Michoac&n, as a ** gay " city. It is, as a matter of
fact, unusually quiet, and therefore much to be desired as a
place of residence. The streets are, almost without exception,
well-paved, well-drained and kept exceedingly clean. There
are a considerable number of open plazcu, and a delightful
natural park known as ''El Bosque," while the orderliness of
the place is remarkable. The large number of trees with
which the principal thoroughfares are lined lend an air of
pleasant rusticity to the town, which is interesting alike for
its old-world aspect, its several notable churches, and its
many associations with the patriot Mor^los.

Life in Mor6lia must pass smoothly enough, one would say,
there being but little from day to day to ruffle the serenity ojf
the place, removed as it is from the neighbourhood of political,
commercial or social turmoil. The people, who number about
87,860 all told, appear to be perfectly content with their lot in
life, as indeed they may be.

Few cities or towns in Mexico exhibit signs of less modernity
than Mor^lia. It is thoroughly old and typically a Spanish
Colonial city. Of the many large stone-built residences, with
their heavily-railed windows, their grotesque protruding water-
spouts, huge stone portals and ponderous main doorways,
hardly one betrays any sign of decay. The Spaniards were
undoubtedly master-builders, and in the absence of sieges.

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THE STATE OP MORJ&LOS 77

intemal revolution and other intentional damage, their edifiees
Beam likely to endure for ever. In some thoroaghfares one
ean see a dozen or more exteriorly handsome residences,
heavily stone - carved, and with magnificently scalptnred
window-frames and copings. Indeed, sach edifices, rented at
abenrdly low figures or owned entirely by people in very
moderate circumstances, are the rule and not the exception.
The Palacio-Municipal, for instance, is a superb example of
the Spanish Colonial grandee's mansion.

At a certain time of the year, about November, after the
termination of the rainy season, Mor^lia is visited by a plague
of huge insects, locally known by the name of cucaracha.
Their size is usually S inches long by 1^ inches wide, but
when the wings are spread the measurements exceed 4 inches.
The eucarcicha is harmless, but alarming at first, since it flies
afanost blindly into one's face or eyes, striking one with extra-
ordinary force. It is ephemeral, living but one night, and
sometimes the street-pavements and roads are thick with the
large, fat bodies, which are readily eaten whenever found by
dogs and donkeys. I do not remember ever having seen a
larger insect than this on the wing, even in Brazil, which is
the home of everything that creeps and crawls, and stings
and bites.

Banking among the smaller but richer States of the
Bepublic, Mor^los, with its population of 161,000, is best
known perhaps to foreigners visiting Mexico by reason of its
capital Cuemavaca, formerly the favourite residence of the
Emperor Maximilian and Empress Garlota, and possessing
many peculiar charms of its own.

The State of Mor^los adjoins the Federal District of Mexico,
which is to its north, the State of Mexico surrounding it on
the west, north-west and north-east. Pu^bla is its eastern and
Bouth-eastem neighbour, and Guerrero lies to the south and
south-east. The whole area covered is little over 7,000 square
kilometres, but this embraces some of the most valuable
agriculturfid land in Mexico. Likewise within its borders
are found some of the highest mountain ranges, snow-capped
volcanoes, peaceful valleys and picturesque ravines. It is to
the north that the mountains lie principally, here being the

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78 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

lofty Sierra de Ajusco, while the no less famoas peaks of
Hnitzilao, Tepoctlan and Santo Domingo near by rear their
heads aloft. There are, however, even higher peaks than
these to be met with, such as Y^pao, Ololaica and Ocoteeatl*
The celebrated Popocatepetl and Ixtaccihoatl ranges almost
form the border line between Morales and the Federal District
of Mexico.

Well-watered and possessing an abondantly-prodnctive soil,
there seems little that Nature has overlooked in this favoured
district. The climate is hot in the southern and central
regions, cold in the northern or mountainous portions, and
temperate on the mountain slopes. Except in the northern
mountains, where it is very abundant, rain is moderate
throughout the country, and frosts are almost unknown. As
in most other parts of the Bepublic, hotii fauna and flora are
rich and varied, while the wooded portions of the country are
carefully preserved from destruction by the Government.
Almost every kind of produce flourishes in Mor^los, the
principal products being sugar-cane, rice, corn, coffee, wheat
and garden vegetables. It is worthy of note that here the first
sugar-plantation and sugar-mill in Mexico were established by
Cortes, at a place called Tlaltenango, and since that time the
culture of the cane has advanced steadily and continuously,
and now forms a leading article of production of the State.

Two or three years ago Morales produced the largest
amount of sugar and molasses of any State in the Bepublic.
The exact figures are as follows :

Sugar ... ... ... ... 80,827,462 kilogramB.

Molasses ... ... ... 16,870,691 „

The State of Veracruz ranks second, with 16,950,649 kilo-
grams of sugar and 8,480,040 kilograms of molasses ; while
Pu^bla comes third with 15,879,076 kilograms of sugar and
6,146,000 kUograms of molasses.

Labour is particularly abundant in the State of Mor^los,
and wages rule lower here than in the neighbouring States
of Mexico and Fu^bla ; the people, however, wear an air of
peaceful contentment, and very little actual poverty exists
among them.

Bice ranks next to sugar in importance, the yield being at

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SEXOK DON TEDRO I.. RODRICiUK?,
CA3VEKN'OK OF HII.DAGO.

SENOR GENERAL D. HKRNARDO REYES,
Gt>VEKNOR OF NUKVO LEON.

SENOR GENERAL DON MUCIO P.
UARTIKEZ, GOVERNOR OF PL'EBLA.

SENOR DON PEDRO ARCUEI.LES,
GOVERNOR OF TAMAL LH'AS.

SKNOR Lie ENRIQUF. O. DE LA MADRID, SENOR DON MC EDLARDO I'ANKHLKST,

GOVERNOR OF COLIMA. (UlVEKNOR OF /ACATECAS.

To Jacep. 88.

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CUERNAVACA 79

the rate of 200 kilograms for one kilogram of seed, com
yields 100 to 200 hectolitres for one hectolitre sown, while
other products return adequate yields for their coltnre.
Althoogh the same difficulty confronts me in regard to
figures as I have before referred to in reference to other States,
the accompanying estimate, given to me by a prominent
ofSoial in Guernavaca, shows that the cereal production for
1902 was as follows : —

Cereals $8,200,000 (Mez.)* sugar-cane (except rum)
$18,800,000, representing a production of 64,791,000 kilo-
grams; rum $2,576,000, representing 49,000 hectolitres;
maguey products $26,000. CofEee-culture is making excellent
progress, and there are at the present time over 5,000,000
trees planted. But little attention is given to stock-raising,
and probably the total of all kinds, including beef -cattle, sheep
and goats, does not much exceed a value of $2,500,000
(Mex.). Neither is there anything to be said in regard to
mining, which occupies a very unimportant position among
the State's industries. Although silver, galena, marble,
alabaster, cinnabar, iron, gold, lead, petroleum and even coal
have been found, there exists not one among them in sufficient
quantity or quality which is paying.

The railway communication through the State is exceedingly
good, the Interoceanic Railway traversing it from north-east
to south-west and having no fewer than 7 stations in its
extent of 76 kilometres. The Interoceanic carries vast freights
of sugar-products, the estimate being about $8,000,000 worth
per annum, including sugar, rum and molasses. The Mexican
Central carries large numbers of passengers to Guemavaca
over its special Guernavaca branch, the number of visitors
from Mexico City amounting to several hundreds per week.
The distance is less than 50 miles from the city, and is
covered in about 4 hours. A new railway has been con-
structed between Guernavaca and Toluca, while it is proposed
to extend the Valley Railway to the first-named city. In this
State may be found some of the best wagon roads in the
Republic.

I could pleasurably linger over a description of the charming
district and town of Guemavaca, but what I should have to
say in regard to it would better fit a guide book than a general

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80 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTUET

volnme on Mexico. No words can do real justice to the grand
scenery which is to be seen all aroond Caemavaca, nor to the
charming, picturesque and historically interesting town itself.
In no other place have I seen such an abundance of flowers,
practically every house being embowered in enormous clusters
of the superb bougainvillaaa, which flourishes here as nowhere
else in Mexico. The cottage occupied by the unfortunate
Emperor Maximilian is so completely covered by these
gorgeous blossoms that none of the walls and very little of
the roof are visible. It is little wonder that Cort6s, the great
conqueror, should have made Cuernavaca his favourite
residence, when resting from his arduous labours. Nor was
he the only celebrity who chose this place as a temporary
residence. King Charles V. of Spain graciously bestowed upon
it the title of '' Villa," while here, also, was held the seat of
Government of Ayutla, presided over by General Don Juan
Alvarez. The Emperor Maximilian's simple home and
garden are named Olindo, and the place remains almost
precisely as he left it. The famous gardens of De la Borda,
the Frenchman who made a huge fortune in Mexico and
subsequently lost the greater part of it, are still one of the
attractions of the place, although, unfortunately, they have
been allowed to fall into sad neglect.

Much might be written with regard to the famous potteries
of San Antonio ; the interesting ruins of Xochicaclo, and of the
sugar hacienda built by Cortes and bequeathed by him to the
hospital of Jesus in the City of Mexico, which owns the
property to this day. Two or ttiree weeks' stay in Cuernavaca
is, in my opinion, one of the most delightful experiences of a
visit to Mexico. Colonel Manuel Alarcon, Governor of Mor6-
los, is of quite humble origin, in this respect resembling the
famous Benito Juarez and the distinguished President of the
Republic himself. He was bom in 1866, and had a hard
upward fight to make before he attained recognition. He was
but fifteen years old when he enlisted under Colonel Bonifacio
Castello to fight the French invaders. He took part in the
siege of Cuernavaca and the capture of Mexico City under
General Diaz. He has commanded the Rural Guards of
Mortios ; was appointed Governor of the State in 1895, and
has so acted since that date.

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CHAPTER XLV

State of Nttbvo Le6n: City of Monterey — American enterprise —
Subnrbfl — ^The Monterey News — Colonel Bobertson as a citizen —
Inoreaee in land valnes— Buildings and streets — ^Local industries —
Factories — Monterey brewery — New waterworks — ^Foundry — Bail-
way fadlitiee — Tramways — ^Pablic vehicles — Labour conditions —
Population — ^Native riots — ^Agricultural resources — Mining — Iron and
coal — Besouroes undeveloped — Grovemor Bemado Beyes — Sensa-
tional reports disproved.

Nxxi to the State of Mexico ranks in importance the State of
Noevo Leon, occupying almost as fertile and well- watered a
legion as its keen business and social rival further south.
The State is bounded on the north, north-west and west by
Coahuila, San Luis Potosi being on the south-south-west, and
beautiful Tamaulipas on the north-east, east, and south-east.
The total area of this State is 61,848 square kilometres, and
its population, continually being augmented, already reaches
a total exceeding 860,000. The climate is variable according
to altitude, the rainfall uncertain, but unpleasant winds blow
at certain periods of the year from the east and north-east,
which residents find very trying to their tempers and visitors
endure with an intense objection. It can also be unpleasantly
hot at times, and then the mosquito usually abounds.

Monterey — spelt variously with one or two r's — with a
population of nearly 80,000 people, shares with Torreon the
^tinction of being a typiciJly American town. Being the
Dearest large settlement of its size to the United States border,
it is regarded as of considerable importance. In the past
it has played a prominent part in Mexico's struggles, first
against one foe and then against another, for the Spaniards
eame there as early as 1660, when they established the town
of Santa Lucia, known later on as Monterey, in honour of the
Viceroy Don Gtaspar de Zuiiiga, Count of Monterey, and the

VOL. n. 81 27

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' 82 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

I

American General Tayler advanced upon it from the Bio
Grande on September 20th, 1846, captured it, and a few days
afterwards won the important battle of Buena Vista, a few
miles further south.

The situation of Monterey is particularly attractive, being
on a small plain completely surrounded by high and verdure-
clad mountains, formed in some of the most fantastic shapes,
and providing a charming setting for a very pretty picture.
Ot the town's 70,000 to 80,000 inhabitants probably about
6,000 or 7,000, including men, women, and children, are
foreigners, and mainly Americans. The German element is
fairly well represented, but of British there are very few.
The foreigners have built for themselves a number of out-
wardly-attractive houses; but the gardens are not a success
owing to the continual clouds of dust which are occasioned
by the sandy nature of the soil, and the intense heat which
prevails throughout the greater portion of the year. But for
this fact the situation would be almost ideal, and, indeed,
some amends are made by the natural greenness of the
mountains and country round about, the many fields of
bright-coloured maize and other cereal growths, watered by
abundant natural streams.

The suburbs of Santa Gatarina and Topo Ghico, where are
some curative mineral springs, would likewise be delightful —
and in the summer-time when rain falls plentifully are delight-
ful — ^but for the dust which lies inches deep upon the roads.
As soon as these are macadamised, which the enterprising
Americans are certain to undertake sooner or later, and the
outskirts of the town are as comfortable in this respect as the
principal streets are already, Monterey will form one of the
most pleasant residential towns in Mexico.

The present prosperity of Monterey is due in a great
measure to Colonel Joseph Andrew Robertson, who may be
aptly called the *' Father of Monterey," as his grandfather,
Mr. James Robertson, was termed the ** Father of Tennessee,"
nearly a hundred years ago. It is to his initiative and
practical help that almost every public and private enterprise
in the town has been undertaken, and while he has not
enriched himself to any considerable extent, he has succeeded
in bringing wealth and prosperity to a great many others.

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MONTEREY 88

The brewery, the electric-light works, the brick-fields, the
fonndry and the iron smelters are the outcome of Colonel
Bobertoon's enterprise, and all are to-day in a very flonrishing
condition. He himself owns the brick factory, in which
(1,000,000 (say ;£100,000) are invested, and the only daily
papers published in the State of Nuevo Leon, the Monterey
NewSf one edition in English and one in Spanish. Of these
he is sole proprietor, having no partners in any of his enter-
prises, a policy which he has pursued all his life.

The value of landed property in Monterey has advanced
sensationally of late years. Thus, a plot which eighteen years
ago was purchased for $9,000, and during that period brought
in some 45,000 dollars rental, was sold a few months ago
ior $300,000. House property until lately was one of the most
stable of investments, continually improving in value, while
new and handsome buildings, both residential and for business
purposes, were being constructed both in the town itself and
outside it.

There are two cement factories already erected here, one
making Portland cement, and situated at Hidalgo, some
37 kilometres distant. Here limestone and marl (clay) exist
in great abundance. The amount of cement turned out is
valued at $500,000 (say J650,000) annually in the one case,
and $260,000 (£25,000) in the other. When these two
bctories are in full working order (the smaller one only
commenced to run last December), they will probably be
enabled to supply the demands of the whole Bepublic, and
thus abolish one more article of import, which will mean
a heavy loss to German and British cement manufacturers.

Hustle and push being characteristics of the enterprising
American, and Monterey being as much his as it is the
Mexicans', it is not surprising to find the town going ahead
much faster probably than any other — ^Mexico City excepted —
b the Republic. Up till late months Monterey, it must be
admitted, has stood in some need of improvement, for it has
been deficient in many things which go to make living com-
fortable and sanitary. The town has lacked good drainage,
an ample and good water-supply, decent pavements, a satis-
factory telephone system and comfortable hotels. One by one
these have been provided, improved, or entirely remodelled,

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84 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

with the result that Monterey to-day is oommendably different
to the Monterey of only two or three years ago.

The centre of the business portion of the town has recently
been repaved, and a great improvement in the appearance of
the streets, to say nothing of the increased comfort to the
pedestrians, is apparent. Gradually the roads leading to the
outskirts of the town will be taken in hand, and not before
they need it.

The water-supply above referred to, and for which the town
of Monterey has long been yearning, is now un fait accompli.
A fine permanent pump-house has been constructed at San
Geronimo, and practically every house in the town now enjoys
an unlimited water-supply. The work of laying the pipes has
been extremely well done, and the work put in generally of a
thoroughly sound and permanent character.

The maJdng of hats is a long-established and very profitable
industry in Monterey, the business having now attained very
considerable importance, the principal foreign customer being
the United States of America. The hats mainly are made of
straw, and although grotesque to a degree when worn by any
but Mexicans, they seem to be popular just now among some
Americans, who wear them for farming or other outdoor work.
In Europe anyone appearing in public in a typical high-
crowned Mexican hat would probably be ''guyed," and
regarded as an eccentric individual neecLmg police protection.
Nature never intended the pale-faced, square-jawed Anglo-
Saxon to wear this head-gear, and I do not believe that,
except among that large class who revel in fads and mon-
strosities, in the shape of garments as well as in food and
pictures, Mexican hats will ever become an established form
of head-dress.

A sausage and kraut factory has of late been established in
this town, the whole of the necessary capital having been found
locally. The enterprise is that of some wealthy stock-keepers,
who, in view of the " meat scandals " which last year con-
vulsed the whole of the carnivorous portion of the world's
population, thought the time propitious to establish a canning
industry locally, the first, I believe, in Mexico. Some
$76,000 gold (say £16,000) has been laid out already, and as
much more is available if necessary.

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MONTEBET INDUSTRIES 85

A new Portland cement factory has recently been con-
stracted by Sefior Francisco Beldeon, the capacity of the
plant being about 200 barrels per day. There are also plants
belonging to Seiior Vincente Ferrari, Manager of the Monterey
Steel Works, producing from 200 to 800 barrels per day, while
the Dublan Cement Works, which were reconstructed about
18 months ago, and fitted with entirely new machinery, find
it difficult to satisfy all their orders. As the greater part
of the American surplus of the cement factories is now going
to Panama for use on the Canal works, the State of Nuevo
Leon would have been in a bad way for the article but for its
local factories.

The Monterey Mining, Smelting and Refining Co. carries
on an extensive business, and pays 7 per cent, regularly. A
recently-constructed corset and ladies' underwear factory has
started business, and is doing well. The Monterey Iron and
Bteel Foundry is one of the most successful corporations in
Mexico ; its $100 shares stand at $116. Over $10,000,000
have been expended upon the plant, to which another
$2,000,000 have recently been added in the construction of
additional departments. The foundry is running at its full
capacity, and turns out rails, beams and other construction
material. The blast furnace has a capacity of 860 tons of
commercial iron every day. The Company also owns iron and
coal mines. Its capital is $10,000,000 (Mex.) in shares of
$100 each, fully paid. A packing-house was established at the
end of last year by Oovemment concession, the capital being
$100,000. The Monterey brewery, known as the '' Cuauh-
temoc," is a very flourishing concern, with an imposing red
brick and stone building which would do credit to any
city; its beers go all over the Republic, and have taken
prizes at many exhibitions in the U.S.A. and in Europe. The
Company has recently erected a four-storey building with
several vats of 1,000 barrels capacity, in each of which beer
will be allowed to age thoroughly.

In regard to railway communication the State of Nuevo
Leon is very well placed; the Mexican National Railroad
crosses it from west to north-east, having 81 stations in
its course of 280 kilometres. A new passenger-station has

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86 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTUBY

recently been erected at Monterey, and is one of the hand-
Bomest to be found in the BepnbUc It is a fit mate for the
handsome station belonging to the Mexican Central Railroad,
which is constructed of white stone, whereas the National
station is of stone and brick. The Monterey and Gulf of
Mexico road crosses the city from west to south on its way
to the State of Tamaulipas. A branch of the National from
Matamoros to Monterey is practically completed, while a
small electric line from Monterey to Topo Chico is also ready
for operation. Here a large hotel is to be erected by one of
the Monterey hotel proprietors. There are about 20 kilo-
metres of tramways, all starting from Monterey, and many
fine wagon roads leading in all directions. A new potosamite
factory is being erected near Topo Chico, the whole of the
necessary capital having been subscribed locally. A candle
factory has recently been commenced, with a capital of
$100,000, while a carriage and harness factory, for which a
State concession has been granted, has been established, the
capital being $100,000, the raw material, for the most part,
coming from the n.S.A.

The condition of labour in Nuevo Leon, as throughout the
Bepublic, is in an extremely unsatisfactory condition, the
demand for able-bodied workmen being far in excess of the
supply. So much new building is going on in all directions
that several thousand additional workmen could readily find
employment if they were forthcoming; while railroads are
also in need of additional men, and offer good wages. The
building contractors of the State are seriously affected in
some directions for lack of workmen, labour never being so
scarce as it is at present. Throughout Monterey, placards
and signs may continually be encountered, stating that
mechanics in the building-trade are urgently needed, and
offering every inducement to applicants.

Although several respectable fortunes have in the past been
made by landowners in and around Monterey, the general
condition of real-estate in that city to-day is unsatisfactory,
and trade in all classes of land has been somewhat spas-
modic and erratic and on a limited scale. This is said
to be due to the fact that the real-estate market is hedged
around with numerous difficulties, which naturally tend to

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CEIMINAL STATISTICS 87

diseonrage transactions of any magnitude. This has, no

doabt, been in a great measure due to the lack of drainage

and water, which, as I have stated, has now to some extent

I bean remedied, and in all probability land values will go up

I steadily until they attain something like the dimensions

I that rule in Mexico City. It may be expected that remote

sections will decrease in value, for business purposes, although

they will advance from a residential point of view, so that

things will be equalised, and, on the whole, real-estate may

I'eceive an impetus.

Monterey resembles many other old cities in regard to
wealth and poverty being found in close juxtaposition ; to-day
many a handsome mansion is located next to a wretched
adobe hovel, but it may be expected that the squalid resi-
dences will be destroyed or deserted as the rates are increased.
Another reason conducive to their discontinuance will be
found in the fact that the Municipal authorities will pass
laws that all householders within a certain radius shall equip
their houses with certain sanitary facilities, an expense which
few, if any, of the hovel-owners could meet.

The State of Nuevo Leon has in the past earned some
onenviable distinction by reason of the popular riots which
have taken place there; and on one occasion when the
Government found it necessary to impose certain restrictions
on account of an outbreak of fever, something like a general
insurrection occurred, and troops had to be called out. On
the whole, however, the State is kept well-in-hand, and the
criminal statistics, which have been placed at my service,
show that while the Courts have been called upon to dispose
of a large number of cases, none of them have been very serious.
For one month, namely that of June last, there were tried
and sentenced 42 cases in all, of which 2 were for homicide,
17 for inflicting injuries, 6 for robbery, 8 for rape, 1 for
adultery, 8 for robbery and fraud, 1 for slander, 8 for assault,
and 1 for forgery. At that time there also remained pending
117 cases, of which 10 were for homicide, 79 for inflicting
injuries, 21 for robbery, 1 for rape, 2 for adultery, 3 for
fraud and 1 for breach of trust. Considering that the entire
population of Nuevo Leon is 860,000, and that the above-
mentioned criminals had been sent to Monterey from all

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88 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURA

parts of the State for trial, the return is not so serioas as
it might appear.

The general trade of the State is in a very healthy condi-
tion, agriculture being the main industry outside the City of
Monterey. The latest statistics at my disposal show the
following production : —

Oerealfl, ^2,216,000 (Mex.).

Sugar-cane prodnots (rum excepted), 8,660,000 kilos, valued at

«1,880,000 (Mex.).
Bum^ t72,600.

Maguey products, 128,000 (Mex.).
Ixtle, «68,000 (Mex.).

The total value of the live stock in the estimate is
$12,000,000 (Mex.), including goats, sheep, beef-cattle, horses,
hogs, asses, and mules. A great part of the shipment
of cattle takes place to Texas and some of the Mexican States,
which also take much of the agricultural produce and some
small quantities of cotton and woollen-goods. The State's
mercantile movement may be estimated at $30,0(M),000
(Mex.) per annum, and the imports include clothing,
textile-fabrics, hardware, paper, wines and liquors, coffee, tea,
machinery, implements, arms, etc., estimated at a value of
about $16,000,000 (Mex.) per annum. Owing to its close
proximity to the United States border, the State naturally
obtains most of its supplies from there; but latterly, I am
glad to say, British trade has met with some recognition.
For instance, the whole of the new waterworks and drainage
pipes have been supplied by a Glasgow firm, in severe
competition, moreover, with both German and American
houses. The greatest satisfaction has been expressed by the
Directors, both in regard to the quality of the pipes supplied
and the promptitude with which they were delivered.

Of recent months, heavy imports have been received from
Europe generally into Monterey via Tampico; these comprise
almost exclusively hardware fabrics, canned delicacies, wines
and liquors.

In regard to mining the State is making rapid headway,
although comparatively but little attention has been paid to
this industry. The number of registered claims to-day
probably scarcely exceed 600, covering an area of less than

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GENERAL BEENARDO EEYES 89

10,000 hectares. In point of actual value, the mining wealth
does not exceed $5,000,000 annually. Several leading
financiers of Monterey are interested in mining, and no doubt
in time they will|,have opened up what at present is only
"prospect " — but good prospect — aground. La Alianza mine
is owned by some Mexican gentlemen of Monterey, and
Mr. Donald B. Morgan, a well-known American engineer of
the city, has recently undertaken the management of the
Manillas mines, and formed a company to finance them.
These are silver and lead mines, while that of the Gompa&ia
La Gobriza are copper. Iron, lead, coal, sulphur and marble
exist in fairly good quantities, but up till now Nuevo Leon
has failed as a gold-producing State.

The iron and coal resources of Nuevo Leon have been
pronounced by experts as practically '^ inexhaustible," and
I believe that they are. In every mine that has been opened
as yet iron has been found in connection with silver and lead,
while I have seen immense lumps of ore lying about on the
tops and sides of the mountains and outcrops in the gullies
and ravines. Perhaps the longest body of ore is that in the
vicinity of Minas Yiejas, which are located on the top of the
mountains lying immediately north of Villaldama.

General Bernardo Reyes, the Governor of the State of
Nuevo Leon, was formerly Minister of War and Navy, and a
member of President Diaz' Cabinet. He is a fine specimen
of his race, handsome, courtly and upright. As a soldier he
has frequently distinguished himself — ^in Sinaloa, in Zacatecas,
in JaUsco — at times of revolution. When President Lerdo
de Tejada was deposed in 1876, forces under Reyes — ^then
Lieutenant-Colonel — ^revolted and deserted him. He at once
reported himself to General Porfirio Diaz as a prisoner, but
that discerning soldier recognising a brave and patriotic
brother-in-arms appointed him commander of the Sixth
I^egiment of Cavalry, an organisation celebrated then as it is
to-day for distinctive gallantry. For several years afterwards
Reyes conducted an active and successful crusade against
revolutionists, and was himself seriously wounded upon more
than one occasion. Towards the beginning of this year some
sensational statements appeared in the cheap New York press
imputing ambitious and disloyal sentiments to General Beyes,

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90 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

which he immediately and emphatically denounced as base
calumnies — as they undoubtedly were. There is no more
loyal adherent to the existing order of things than this high-
minded soldier, and his name in Nuevo Leon is regarded with
positive affection, as indeed it may be said to be throughout
the rank and file of the whole Mexican Army. General Reyes
is 57 years of age, having been bom in Guadalajara in the
year 1850.

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CHAPTER XLVI

Statb of Oaxaoa : Scenic stirroimdings — ^Trades and indiutries — Climatic
conditions — Port of Salina Craz — Agrioultare and mining— Valley of
the Tebnantepec — City of Tebnantepeo — City of Oaxaca — Bailway
conmiimications — Benito Juarez* and Porfirio Diaz* birthplace —
Historical buildings — Improvements in the city — Some famous
ohnrches — ^A notable prelate — His influence and distinguished ecclesi-
astical career.

Not only does Oaxaca de Jaar^z rank as one of the largest of
the States of the Bepublic, bat it is certainly one of the richest
of them, its boundaries being the States of Pa6bla and Yeracraz
on the north, Yeracmz and Chiapas on the north-east and
east, Chiapas and the Pacific ocean on the south, and Guerr6ro
on the west and north-west. The total area of the State is
91,664 square kilometres, and the population is not very far
short of 1,000,000. It would be difficult to do anything like
justice to the scenic beauty and fertility of the regions occupied
by Oaxaca. Within its borders, mountain, valley, river and
stream are found in their most entrancing aspect, and one
might travel the world over without encountering anything
more peaceful and prosperous than the valleys of Nochitl&n
and Mixteco, both of which are nearly 2,000 metres above
sea-level. In order to appreciate the majestic grandeur of
the Sierra Madre mountains, which cross the whole State,
it is necessary to take the railway journey from the City of
Pn6bla to the City of Oaxaca, a description of which will be
found under Chapter XXXI., dealing with the Mexican Southern
Railway. Two of the most prominent peaks which are seen
on this memorable trip are Zempoaltepec, 8,897 metres, and
Ban Felipe del Agua, 8,125 metres above sea-level. Another
valley of surpassing beauty and fertility is that of Oaxaca
(or ijitequera), which occupies the greater part of the central
region of this State.

91

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92 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

Being one of the maritime States of Mexico, Oazaca has
always been regarded as of great importance, and from the
days of Cortes a large portion of the country's trade has come
through the ports in this State. The principal among them
is, of course, that of Salina Cruz, which is now the terminus
of the Tehuantepec Railway on the Pacific side, that of the
Gulf side being Coatzacoalcos. Chacahua, Puerto Escondido,
Puerto Angel, San Augustin, Huatules, San Diego and La
Yentosa, are all ports of consequence, Puerto Angel being the
most sheltered and having the deepest water, but, unfor-
tunately, its entrance is too narrow to allow of the passage
of large vessels. Whereas the above-mentioned are open to
foreign and coast-wise traffic, there are additionally an
immense number of bays, roads and small islands, all of which
have some value. No State is better watered than that of
Oaxaca, some of the finest rivers of the Republic coursing
through its territory. There is, for instance, the Tehuantepec
river, which, with its numerous tributaries, travels an extent
of 294 kilometres, while the Arena, the Tonameca and the
Gopalita are rivers of considerable consequence. The prin-
cipal lakes among a large number are the Superior and the
Inferior, both situated on the isthmus of Tehuantepec, and
Alotengo and Chacahua which communicate with the Pacific
Ocean.

While on the sea coast, and especially at Salina Cruz, the
climate is found always hot and sometimes unhealthy, in the
valleys of Oaxaca no climate can be deemed more delightful.
In the higher altitudes, and throughout almost the entire
region of Mixteca Alta, the temperature is even cold. Rain
is usually moderate throughout the State, and frosts are very
seldom encountered. On occasions, however, the rains can
be found very detrimental to the interests of the State, and
great damage is done to the roads. I have known practically
every road throughout the rich mining districts to be
completely washed-out, and locomotion rendered impossible
for days together. In the month of July 1906 this occurred,
but it was said to be an exceptionally bad season.

It is remarkable that in such a delightful climate as the
greater part of Oaxaca offers, fevers and affections of the
digestive organs should prevail; but such is the fact, while

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OAXACA'S TRADE 98

yellow fever, at one time the scourge of Salina Craz, still
exists, although nothing in proportion to what it was in
fonner days, before Salina Cruz was entirely rebuilt and
endowed with a sanitary sytem.

The resources of this State are numerous, but the two
principal industries are agriculture and mining. Of such
importance are both of these, that it is difficult to say which
ought to take a precedence in description. In the rick valley
lands of Oaxaca every kind of produce can be raised, and
no where can finer cereals or sugar be grown. Last year
cereals exceeding $8,500,000 (Mex.) and sugar-cane pro-
ducts (direct) valued at $1,400,000 (Mex.) were raised,
other produce being rum $1,821,0(X) (Mex.), maguey pro-
ducts $250,000, textile fibres $112,000, coffee $501,000, and
tobacco $70,000. The yearly agricultural production of the
State may be estimated roughly at between $15,0(X),0(X) and
S16,000,000 (Mex.), while stock raising represents a value of
nearly $4,000,0(X) (Mex.), the leading species being goats,
sheep, beef-cattie, hogs and horses.

Besides agriculture and mining (the latter being treated
nnder a separate chapter) Oaxaca does a considerable trade
with its maguey fibre which is called ** pita de Oaxaca," as
well as in woollen and cotton fabrics, furniture, pottery,
candles, soap, matches, chocolate and tobacco. With the
neighbouring States of Veracruz, Pu^bla, and Chiapas, the
State maintains a valuable inter-trade, sending out coffee, hides,
cochineal, flour, sugar, minerals, indigo, oils and tobacco, and
receiving in exchange over 200 different articles, which include
those from abroad, such as machinery, agricultural-imple-
ments, hardware, canned-goods, beer, wines and liquors,
cotton and silken goods, etc. Taking all in all, the State's
trade amounts to between $17,000,000 and $18,000,000 (Mex.)
annually, and this is being fastly increased.

Unfortunately the State is not served with railway com-
munication as well as it should have been had the spirit
of progress been as pronounced 15 or 20 years ago as it
is to-day, when, unfortunately, the same favourable circum-
stances no longer exist. The Mexican Southern Bailroad,
as I have stated, runs from the City of Pu6bla, in the State of
that name, to Oaxaca City ; had the Southern Co., a British

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94 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

concern, had sufficient capital on hand, doubtless, before
now the line would have been extended to the Pacific coast.
Gradually the track is crawling towards that destination ; but
not under these auspices ; and in any event it must be many
years yet before a direct line from the northern States of the
Republic runs to the extreme south. The Tehuantepec Rail-
way, of which I speak more fully on p. 284, Vol. L, runs from
Salina Cruz on the Pacific, in the State of Oaxaca, to Coat-
zacoalcos on the Gulf of Mexico, in the State of Veracruz, a
distance of 190 miles (about 804 kilometres).

The city of Oaxaca is typically Spanish in appearance, bat
although full of interest to the average traveller, it is as yet
somewhat deficient in some advantages and conveniences.
Many buildings are extremely handsome and commodious
externally, but not very comfortable inside. The streets are
for the greater part paved with cobble-stones, which render
travelling in any kind of vehicle one long mental penalty not
unaccompanied by physical agony, the majority of people
preferring to walk rather than be jolted over the stones, which
are both badly laid and mostly out of place. Open ditches
run through many of the streets, the roadbeds of which are
concave instead of level. A new sewerage system is promised,
but it will be probably a considerable time before it is carried
out.

Even the electric light system, which has recently been
introduced, is both poor and inadequate, and a source of con-
tinual complaint by the inhabitants. The tramway system is
mule-drawn, and, therefore, inefficient ; but the cars are clean
and the fares moderate. In regard to telegraph, telephone,
and postal service, the State has lately much improved.

While the steam navigation along the coast, which is carried
on by the Pacific Mail Steam Co., Hamburg-American Line
and the Mexican Line, has up till recently been irregular and
unsatisfactory, things promise to improve at no distant date.
Since the opening of Salina Cruz as a port, the Hamburg-
American Line, for instance, has improved its service some-
what, while the Hawaiian-American Line now runs regular
services in connection with the Tehuantepec Railway. The
finances of the State are in fairly good condition, while taxa-
tion is moderate. The heaviest expenditure which the State

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/■< V. ky lk'iH/i€id Scott.

MichoacAn. — Governmental Palace in the City of Moi^lia. — seep. 76.

^«/. 95.1

Oaxaca. — Institute of Science and Art, City of Oaxaca.

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EUINS OP MITLA 96

GoYemment incnrB is in connection with education, and no
halt can be found with that. The exiating schools are well
eondacied, and new educational establishments, under excel-
lent management, are being added.

It is worthy of note that both Benito Juarez and Porfirio
Diaz, the two most celebrated of the Presidents of the Republic
of Mexico, were bom in the City of Oaxaca, both being of
pore blood. The house in which Juar6z was bom is now
QBed as a Museum, and possesses several photos and other
objects connected with the life of the illustrious Oaxaca-
quenan. The house, which is '' No. 87 Fifth Hidalgo Street,"
has a bronze tablet affixed, setting forth the glorious services
rendered by Juar6z to the Republic, and the Constitution of
September 16th, 1857, which he gave to it. The house in which
Porfirio Diaz was bom has now, unfortunately, been pulled
down, and a school building, known as the *' Escuela Porfirio
Diaz/' erected on the site. The exact population in 1906 (the
last local census taken) was 982,080 inhabitants.

After some years of inactivity, explorations are again pro-
ceeding at the ruins of Mitla, one of the largest tombs being
excavated from beneath, the ground having given out hollow
Boonds when tested. I am also glad to say that the authori-
tiee have at last rescued from its ignoble use as a stable one of
(he finest portions of the ruins, a piece of vandalism which I
was astonished to see being perpetrated at the time of my
visit. Monte Alban, some little distance from Oaxaca City, is
also being once again explored and excavated.

Dr. Salaguren, of Oaxaca City, who possessed what is
undoubtedly the most complete and valuable collection of
Aztec and Toltec heathen deities and other relics, has lately
sold it to the National Museum of Mexico City for the sum
of $40,000 (£4,000), and this may certainly be regarded as
an acquisition of unique value. It has taken many long
years of patient waiting and the outlay of no inconsiderable
stun of money to amass this collection, which is 9ui generis.

In Oaxaca City several important improvements have been
effected during the past few months. A new and handsome
theatre has been commenced, is now well advanced in con-
struction, and will be ready for occupation some time in May
or June next. The Crisantema Club will occupy some of the

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96 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

many handsome aparixnents which are to be provided, this
being a highly snccessfal and nltra-fashionable dancing and
recreation coterie, while the Oaxaca^ Club, another social
organisation, has been invited to make its headquarters at
the same place, bat may prefer to find larger aoco^^modation
elsewhere.

The Cathedral at Oaxaca City has been entirely renovated
and in some parts almost rebuilt by the mnnificence qt the
Archbishop, Dr. E. Gillow, who has already expended a
modest fortune upon the reconstruction and renovation of
other of the city's churches. The newly-decorated fane was
reopened to public worship (it was never entirely closed
even during the alterations going on), and reflects infinite
credit upon the perfect taste as well as the great liberality of
the prelate. The church now contains some modem works
of real art and merit, mainly from Italy. A magnificent
bronze high altar, with heroic figures and two life-sized
figures of saints, have been added, and are deemed equal to
anything of the kind to be found in Home or Florence.

The Archbishop of Oaxaca, who has done so much for the
churches in his diocese, is a very cultured and charming
man. Bom in Pu6bla in 1841, he is the son of an English-
man, Mr. Thomas Gillow and the Marquise de Selva Nevada.
In 1851 he was in England, and a pupil at Stoneyhurst College,
where he distinguished himself in Latin, Greek and French
literature At the instigation of the Pope, Pius IX., young
Gillow entered the Ecclesiastical Academy for Nobles in
Bome, following which he passed four years in the Gregorian
University. It was the same fervid, brilliant young priest
who delivered a striking lecture at the Convocation of the
Vatican Council upon the *' Infallibity of the Pope," at which
his Holiness and the whole Pontifical Court were present.
Young Gillow became Theological Counsel to the Bishop
(Dr. Marquez) of Oaxaca, and, retuming to Mexico, he suc-
ceeded the bishop in the see on his death, and was shortly
afterwards raised to the rank of Archbishop. His Grace has
been twenty years in the same diocese, and is much venerated
by the whole nation for his benefactions and lovable nature.

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CHAPTER XLVn

State op Pn£Bi.A ; Rich agrionltnral country — Cotton industry and mills
—Mining — Railway oommunioation — Churohes — City of Pu^bla —
Interesting history. Tbbbitobt of Quimtana-Roo : Immigration
inducements — Unsettled conditions — Natural resources. State of
QuBs^ABO : Fertility and climate — Agriculture and trade — Cattle-
raising — Mining — City of Quer^taro — Maximilian associations —
Churches and public buildings.

With the exception of the Federal District of Mexico City
&Qd the States of TIaxeala, Mexico and Goanajoato, Pa6bla
is the most densely-populated of all the Republic's States.
Its area of 81,616 square kilometres carries a population of
1,021,133, which would give 82.29 to the square kilometre.
Likewise, it is one of the richest of the producing States,
and from a topographical point of view cannot be excelled in
the beauty of its mountains or the fertility and productive-
nees of its soil, and generally in the contented and prosperous
condition of its people.

The leading industry is that of agriculture, and among its
pnxiacts are cereals, sugar-cane, co£fee, vanilla, and delicious
froits of every description. In travelling through the State
of Pa6bla one is impressed with the extensiveness and rich-
I16B8 of the plantations, of which there are close upon 500,
owned and worked by some of the wealthiest residents in the
Bepablic. Out of these 500 plantations, some 880 are de-
voted almost exclusively to cereals, 70 to sugar-cane, 80 to
iiuigaey pulque, 15 to co£fee, 8 to tobacco, and the remainder
to cattle-raising.

The plains of San Juan de los Llanos, Ghalchicomula, Teca-
iiE^achalco, Tepeaca and Tepeji, as well as the valleys of Texu-
clnein, Atlixco and Pudbla, are among the most productive
^ the State, and it is not surprising to find the price of

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98 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

agricultural land ruling very high. In all these districtB an
abundance of water is found, the principal rivers being the
Atoyac and its numerous tributaries, the Vinasco, the
Pantepec, the Cazones, the Zempoala and the Necaxa, the
latter forming, in the district of Huachinango, a beautiful
cascade, 162 metres high, which is utilised by the Mexican
Light and Power Co., Ltd., for their electric cables, which
traverse a distance of over 100 miles to Mexico City. Four
magnificent lakes, named Quecholac, Tlachichica, Tepehuayo
and EpatUn, aflford both sport, pleasure and irrigation-power.

In no part of the State can the climate be considered
unpleasant, although it varies considerably, being temperate
on the plains, hot in the south and moderately cold in the
northern districts. Where Nature has been so lavish in her
bestowals, it may be readily understood that both jUyra and
fauna are extremely rich. Although agriculture, as I have
observed, is the principal industry in point of actual monetary
value, Pu^bla is famous for its cotton factories, the manu-
factured articles going all over the Republic, and being very
highly esteemed by the purchasers. It is, however, rather
in cotton weaving and spinning than in cotton cultivation
that Pu6bla has distinguished itself, the Atlixco factory being
among the most celebrated in Mexico.

As a matter of fact the State of Pu6bla stands first in
regard to the number of its cotton-factories and the number
of pieces woven or printed, but it gives place of precedence to
other of the States, such as the Federal District, Guanajuato
and Mexico, in regard to the amount of yam turned out.
There are, to-day, some 29 working mills in Pu6bla, out of
a total of 34, 5 being idle. The amount of cotton consumed
is close upon 7,860,000 kilos, including pieces woven or
printed, these amounting to 1,988,088 ; yam to the extent of
11,926 kilos being also included. The annual declared sales of
both are in nett value $13,497,842 (Mex.). The factories
employ 176,846 spindles and 6,112 looms, as well as 4 print-
ing- machines. The number of hands employed is 6,660,
aknost double that of the next nearest, namely the Distrito
Federal, which employs 3,624 hands.

Mining in Pu6bla includes gold, silver, copper and marble,
the latter existing in large quantities and being of a specially

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PU^BLA ONYX 99

fine character. Although the number of mining claims has
not materially increased of late, very few have been aban-
doned, which at least speaks well for the continuance of the
'* finds/' and proves that Pu^bla, as a true mining centre, is
Ukely to take a prominent place before long. There are at
present some 160 mining claims registered, covering 2,000
heetares. Naturally many of these claims are only in the
proepect stage, and the number of actual producing mines
does not exceed 15 or 16, and the total value of the output is
abont $600,000 (Mex.).

One of the most recent industries to be established in
Pa6bla is that of quarrying of onyx, for which a very large
demand exists in the United States of America. Users of the
material, however, complain strongly of the inability to
obtain supplies which are up to sample, and an instance was
given to me by one contractor who, from a sample, ordered
a considerable supply for use in the U.S.A. He declared to
me that when he received the consignment, every piece of
onyx was different in colour from what he had ordered, not
one of the blocks resembling the sample. I suppose that this
can scarcely be avoided, and, to many, the varieties in colour
are the greatest attraction. The price of the onyx at the
quarries at Pu^la averages about $800 Mex. (£30) per cubic
metre. Delivered at the railway stations in block, it varies
from $350 to $400 (Mex.), according to the distance from the
quarries, and the consequent transportation charges. It
seems, moreover, that the owners of Pu6bla onyx are not very
keen on business with the United States, and are quite con-
tented to confine their orders to local demands, which are
very considerable.

in point of railway communication the State of Pu6bla is
exceptionally well-provided. From Mexico City, the City of
Pu^la is reached by two alternate lines, the Mexican and
the Interoceanic, while the Southern Bailway has its head-
quarters there. The situation of the City of Pu6bla, being
as it is upon a vast open plain, has afforded the native
architects opportunity of doing full justice to their creations,
and certainly there is no city in the Republic which can
boast of more numerous and handsome buildings. It has
been and still is termed the '' City of the Angels," but whether

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100 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

in reference to the moral character of its inhabitants or the
namber of churches dedicated to the worship of the Deity, it
is impossible to say. At least churches are to be seen every-
where; and looking down upon the City from an eminence,
their ^ded domes, their walls and their towers attract notice
in every direction. Practically each church has its dome, either
gilt or covered with bright-hued china tiles, San Augustine's
being white, San Josd red, Santa Domingo red and white,
Concepcion brown, Santa T^r^a yellow, San Cristobal bine,
etc., etc., while the majestic cathedral, which occupies practi-
cally the centre of the city, is entirely of brownish-grey, the
lofty towers being observable for nearly 20 miles distant.

The cathedral cost a million and a half dollars, and has
been described as the most beautiful ecclesiastical building in
the world ; but as I have seen both Burgos, Cadiz, Toledo and
Seville cathedrals, I venture to differ from that criticism.
Nevertheless, I am prepared to confess that the interior of
the Pu6bla edifice is the work of a master, the north transept
in particular being a splendid architectural composition, the
work of the famous Juan de HsBrrera. The pulpit and the
font are of choice onyx, from the now extinct Tecali quarries.
Modem architects say that the west front of the Cathedral is
entirely unworthy of the two majestic towers which flank it,
or of the magnificently proportioned and constructed interior.
But all agree that as a whole it is a superb creation.

To attempt to describe the beauties of Pu^bla City would
necessitate a special volume. I would willingly linger over
my recollections of this gem of a City, but unfortunately space
forbids. For a full description of its magnificent churches,
its pictures, its statuary, its carvings, its public buildings and
its libraries, I must refer my readers to any one of the
numerous text-books which have been published concerning it,
but none of which can do justice to the theme. Unquestion-
ably fair is the City of Pu6bla, only 25 miles distant from the
superb snow-crested volcanoes Popocatapetl and Ixtaccihuatl,
glistening in the ever-present sunshine and embowered in
perpetual green surroundings. Rugged Malintzi, 18,000 feet
in height, grand old Orizaba, only a few hundred feet less,
and other peaks of note can be discerned from Pu6bla. The
city is considered the key to the national Capital from a

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THE CITY OP PU^BLA 101

military point of view, and daring the several foreign wars
it has ohanged hands several times.

Neither is the history of Fa6bla any less interesting. It
is a particularly stormy one, the City having passed through
many bitter vicissitudes of war, and perhaps, next to Mexico
City itself, has suffered the most of any in the Republic. On
August 2nd, 1821, it was captured by Augustin Yturbide,
afterwards Emperor of Mexico. On May 25th, 1847, it was
occupied by the U.S. General Scott ; on May 6th, 1862, it was
the scene of Zaragoza's victory; it was reoccupied by the
French on May 17th, 1868, and four years later, April 2nd,
1867, it was retaken by General Forfirio Diaz.

It is only, comparatively speaking, within the last few
months, that the last traces of the ravages caused by these
continual attacks have been obliterated ; but even yet, upon
some of the less pretentious buildings, the marks of French,
American and Mexican buUets may be seen. A vast amount
of wealth is still concentrated in Pu^bla, principally in con-
nection with its costly churches, and more especially the
Cathedral, which is some 800 years old.

The principal public buildings in the City of Fu6bla include
the old Alhondiga, where the legislative sessions are held ;
the Law Courts ; the Fenitentiary, which is considered one of
the finest in the Republic ; the State College, also a stately
building, and an altogether admirably conducted institution ;
the Fublic Library, containing 40,000 volumes ; the Normal
School; the Academy of Fine Arts, and several hospitals.
The streets of the City are wide and are kept scrupulously
clean, the centres sloping slightly to the curb on either side,
while a contiuuous stream of water flows through them for
sanitary purposes. There are numerous parks and pUizM
maintained with great care, the trees, flowers and fountains
bearing the appearance of intelligent attention on the part of
the authorities.

General Mucio F. Martinez, Governor of the State of
Pu^bla, is one of the most distinguished soldiers in the
Republic, and an intimate friend of the Fresident. General
Martinez takes the keenest interest in education and the
general welfare of the State, and is highly esteemed by all
sections of the community.

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102 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

Quintana-Boo is one of the three territories of the United
States of Mexico, and has, in its time, given a great deal of
trouble to the Federal Government, bat nowadays the local
conditions are of a decidedly more pacific, bat still not wholly
settled, character, and the country is attracting a fair proportion
of foreign capital. The Territory of Qaintana-Boo was created
by the Act of December 14th, 1900, and, by the Act of February
25th, 1904, its political and municipal organisation was estab-
lished. There can be no doubt that it is eminently adapted
to agriculture, the soil being more fertile than the arid plains
of its neighbour, Yucatan, which is mainly suitable to the
henequ^n plant. Of recent months a Yucat4n henequ6n
Company has also purchased a large quantity of maguey
shoots, with the intention of planting them in Quintana-Boo.

The Mexican Federal Government is offering every induce-
ment for immigration into this territory, and one American
company, of which I have heard, has just been formed with a
capital of $1,000,000 (Mex.), for the purpose of working a
large tract of land which it has acquired. The concession,
which has been acquired from Senor Alberto Terrazas, covers
a region of 556 sqaare miles, and embraces 850,000 acres of
timber lands, rich in chicle, cedar, dye-woods and mahogany.
At present the property is absolutely virgin-forest, hardly a
tree having been been felled, owing to the continuous trouble
with the Maya Indians, who have only recently been sup-
pressed.

So little is known of this region, and travelling, where at all
possible, is still conducted with so much difficulty, that
I am unable to give any further details of Quintana-Boo's
trade opportunities or mineral possibilities. It will probably
be some quarter of a century hence before the place can be
regarded as a suitable one for any but the most hardened and
experienced settlers — ^men who must be prepared to face
the greatest hardships, and possibly encounter the hostile
attacks of the small bands of the wandering Indians who still
exist. In spite of this fact, however, Qaintana-Boo will
gradually evolve from a state of backwardness, and tele-
phonic and telegraphic services, as well as public schools
buildings and a military railway, are gradually being pupplied.
It is the policy of the Mexican Government to allow no part

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QUEE^TABO 108

of the country to remain in a position which can be described
as ** nnsettled," and even at the expense of completely exter-
minating the Maya Indians, whose proper habitat it is,
Qaintana-Boo will be brought gradually into line, as the
State of Sonora has — or has almost — ^been.

In point of population Qner^taro stands seventh among the
States of the Republic, although it is one of the smallest.
The whole population is 288,889, which gives an average of
25.82 in regard to its territorial size of 11,688 kilometres.

Topographically, the State may be divided into two regions,
the Northern being mountainous, while the Central and
Southern is occupied by plains and valleys. The mountain
ranges of Quer6taro are very precipitous, although they are
not especially famous for great height ; but some of them are
at least historic, such as the Cerro de las Campanas, where
Maximilian met his death. The rivers which course through
the State are sufficient in number and size to very thoroughly
irrigate it, while the several small lakes, the principal of
which are the Cerro Grande, the Conchli, the San Cillo, and
the Saledon, combine with the many swamps and mineral
springs to give Quer6taro a thoroughly fertile and productive
soil. The climate is variable according to the altitude, rain-
fall and frosts being both moderate.

Owing to the State's extreme fertility, agriculture is pursued
with considerable success. Here cereals, leguminous plants,
fruits, etc., cotton, sugar-cane and wheat are largely culti-
vated, the latter yielding 100 grains to the seed, and ranking
as the finest grain in the Republic. About 10 years ago the
niunber of plantations in the State, according to official
figures, came to 195, but since then, I understand, at least
16 or 20 additional plantations have been registered, so
that the total number should be put at 216. Out of these,
about 181 are devoted to the culture of cereals, 10 or 11
to maguey-mescal, 6 to sugar, and the balance to cattle-
breeding. According to official figures, cereals take promi-
nence, and average over $8,000,000 (Hex.), maguey products
coming next with $70,000, ixtle third with $6,000, and
tobacco about $2,000. The total value of the stock raised
in the State may be put at $2,600,000.

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104 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

The trade of Qaer6taro is of very considerable importance,
exceeding in value $10,000,000 per annum. This is carried
on principally with the neighbouring StateSi com, wheat and
other cereals, fruits, jerked-beef, etc., being sent thither to the
value of $4,000,000, and a trade is done on account of mineral
products shipped to the U.S.A. Imports are received to the
value of $5,000,000, mainly coming from the U.S.A., Europe
and Mexico City, in the order named. The local industries,
besides agriculture, embrace mining, linen, woollen and cotton
goods manufactures, flower-mills, paper-mills, distilleries, etc.

Of mining in this State I take an extremely favourable view,
the regions being among the richest I have seen, and including
silver, galena, copper, iron, cinnabar, mercury, coal and lead,
while, among precious stones, the finest opals, garnets and
similar deposits are found. There are altogether some 60 mines
working in the Cadereyta district, 85 in Jalp^, and a dozen
in Tolim^. There are some 20 difierent establishments
destined for the reduction of ores, but some of these are now
closed down for various reasons. Owing to its mountainous
character, the mining region of Quer6taro is one of the most
difficult to operate, there being very little railway accommoda-
tion as yet in the district, the various heavy machinery having,
as a consequence, to be dragged up the precipitous mountain
sides and down into deep gullies, a task which taxes the
available resources of locomotion to the utmost, and is very
severe upon the unfortunate mules and ** burros " employed.

The State of Quer6taro is destined to derive considerable
benefit from the construction of a new line of railway between
the city of that name and Acambaro, in the neighbouring
State of Guanajuato, inasmuch as it will establish another
link-line between the two great railway systems of Mexico,
namely the National and the Central.

The City of Quer6taro to the ordinary traveller must ever
remain among the most fascinating in the Republic of Mexico,
for it was here that Maximilian made his last stand and
where he was eventually taken prisoner, and — a few miles
from the capital — ^was executed. Long before the Spaniards
came to Mexico, Quer6taro was an Otomite town, and was
made a city as early as 1655, by a decree of Philip IV. of
Spain. It was here, also, that the treaty of peace between

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CHUBCHE8 AND ARCHITECTURE 105

tiie U.S. and Mexico was ratified, in 1848. To my mind
the most fascinating and at the same time the most tragic
thing to be seen at Qaer6taro is the spot where Maximilian
and his two brave Generals were shot, on Jane 19th, 1867. The
place is marked now by a handsome monument in the form
ol a Chapel, but this has only been erected in recent years.
The first means of identification were three rough crosses,
nnenclosed ; then some reverent person built an iron railing
around, which some years afterwards was removed to make
room for three crosses of stone to the memory of Maximilian,
Miramon and Mejia — all three names strangely enough com-
mencing with the letter '^M." When the Emperor was con-
demned to death, he asked as a final request that he might
be shot in the heart and not in the head, so that '* his mother
might look upon his face." In my brief remarks devoted to
Maximilian in Mexico will be found some particulars of the
unfortunate Emperor's last days in this city.

The churches of Quer6taro are among the most beautiful
and costly to be found in the Republic, or, indeed, in any
country of the world, and Mexico, as I have before observed,
is celebrated all the world over for its handsome ecclesiastical
edifices. The cathedral, which was formerly known as the
Church of San Francisco, dates from 1698, and although its
senlptures and paintings suffered in common with those found
in other churches during the siege, they still remain among
the most remarkable examples of their day. The chapels of San
liOieto, Santa Clara (founded by a wealthy Indian), and those
of San Felip6, Santo Domingo, San Antonio, San Agustin,
Carmen, Merced, Santa Teresa, Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz
are all notable for their carvings, both exterior and interior.
The Santa Rosa Church has been pronounced by Mr. Charles
Dudley Warner, an accepted authority upon ecclesiastical
work, as one of the finest chapels in the world. He says : '' I
know of no Church so rich in wood-carving; it is overlaid
with thick gold leaf, almost gold plate, and in some places the
gold is overlaid with transparent tortoiseshell. The great
altar, which is said to be the richest part of the chapel, was
wantonly destroyed by the French when they occupied the
City* They tore it down and burned it in order to get the
gold. They took it away to the value of $1,600,000."

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106 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

The visit to Qaer6taro is worth taking by archsBoIogistSi at
least if only to see the wonderful aqueduct which still exists in
remarkable state of preservation from the early Spanish days.
Even now it stretches for over five miles, but formerly was
considerably longer. It is still in use, and carries the city's
water-supply from the neighbouring hiUs. Some of the arches
are over 90 feet in height, and of these giants there are some
eighty. The effect of this enormous mass of masonry as one
stands beneath it is overpowering. The Spaniards were
certainly mighty builders. The masonry itself is both artistic
and enduring, and it is to be hoped that future generations
will preserve this magnificent specimen of Spanish enterprise
untouched, and regard it, as it is, as a precious heirloom.

Some public buildings in the City of Quer6taro are remark-
able, and I give elsewhere photographs of one or more of
them. The City enjoys an exceedingly good government, the
number of educational and charitable establishments which
it possesses being among the best that I have inspected in
the Republic. Among them may be enumerated the Civil
College, the Normal School, the Conservatoire of Music, the
School of Arts, the Academy of San Fernando and the two
public hospitals, known as Uie Yergara and the Civil The
Governor's palace is a very handsome structure, and contains
the halls of legislature, justice and public-works. Seiior Don
Francisco Ck>nzalez de Cosio, the Governor, is regarded with
deep respect, and under his rule the State has progressed
remarkably during the last few years.

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QVERKTARO.— Principal Patio \\\ the Federal I'alace, City of (^ueretaro.

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CHAPTER XLVin

Statb or San Luis Potosi : Spanish history— Population— ECadeiiclas
and agrionltore— Annual production — Great mineral wealth — Borne
fiunons mines — Grovemor Gnevas — His progressive policy — City of San
Luis Potosi— Public edifices — Hotels — ^Laok of water-supply — ^Im-
provements projected — MunidpalsehodlB — Localindustries — Factories
and milla— Brewery — Furniture factory — Tobacco trade and factories
— Governor and education — Qtood roads.

LoNo before the all-conquering Spaniard came, the land
around about San Luis Potosi — " San Luis of the Treasure " —
was known, but under a different name, to the native Mexicans
by reason of its great richness, the annual output of its silver
mines amounting to some millions of pounds in value. It
did not take the Spaniards very long to make the discovery
either, for in a burst of religious fervour one of the chiefs
disclosed the fact and even pointed out the principal places of
richness. A Spanish monk christened the locality San Luis,
and added the name of "Potosi," because he declared the
wealth which it contained reminded him of Potosi in Peru.
From those days to these it would be difficult to compute the
output from the mines, but the aimual coinage made there-
from amounted to $8,000,000 for a great number of years, as
IB proved by the mint's records.

It was in 1666 that the place became a full-fledged city,
and while the first church was built in 1688, it was only in
1854 that it became the see of a bishopric. There are several
very fine sacred edifices in the city apart from the Cathedral,
which was formerly only the parish church, the churches of
£1 Carmen, Merced, San Agustin and San Francisco being
all remarkable in their way, even in a land of handsome
churches.

The State of San Luis Potosi has to-day a population
approaching 680,000, of which the capital claims perhaps

107

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108 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTUET

661OOO9 including a considerable colony of Americans and
other foreigners. A more favourable geographical position
could scarcely be desired. All its immediate neighbours are
distinguished States — Coahuila, Nuevo Leon, Tamaulipas,
Veracruz, Jalisco, Hidalgo, Queretaro and Guanajuato.
Furthermore, it has the honour of sheltering the Tropic of
Cancer, which passes through its northern portion at a point
about 28 kilometres to the south of the famous Catorce mining
district. Its climate is delightfully mild and yet invigorating
all the year round, while its scenic attractions are considerable.

A fine but not very lofty range of mountains traverse the
entire State from north to south, and become wild and rugged
in the eastern part. Elevated tablelands form the central
and western portions, and while these are naturally dry and
unsuitable for pasturage, water is found very near the surface,
and could easily be used more largely than it is for irrigation.
On the extreme south of the State, a number of rivers are
found, such as the Tantojon, the Tamuin and the Fanuco.

The many fine and flourishing haciendas in the southern
portion of San Luis Fotosi prove what can be done with this
soil. Agriculture is pursued with great success, and the
several cattle-breeding establishments which I saw looked
uncommonly prosperous, although the summer of 1906 proved
an exceptionally dry one. There are some 80 celebrated
cattle-breeding farms in this State which ship their beasts to
America. The crops also were very good in appearance, and,
as I was informed, proved so in quantity of their yield. The
State contains nearly 200 large, and many more smaller,
plantations ; 4 of these are devoted entirely to coffee, 40 to
sugar, 188 to cereals and about 16 to the maguey plant.
According to Government statistics it seems that the State
produces barley, oats, rice, corn and wheat, to the annual
value of between $5,000,000 and $6,000,000 ; sugar-cane, of
a total output of 4,180,000 kilograms, representing a value of
$296,500 ; rum, 86,500 hectolitres, worth $650|000 ; maguey
(mescal and pulque) 52,000 hectolitres, worth $560,000 ; and
textile fibres (ixtle and cotton) aggregating 8,770,000 kilo-
grams, valued at $540,000.

It is, however, in mining rather than agriculture that San
Luis de Fotosi has become one of the wealthiest States in

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SAN LUIS POTOSI 109

Mexico. Under the heading of Mining in Mexico (Chap. LXX.)
I set forth the remarkable yield of this richly-endowed portion
of the coontryy which has been materially assisted of late
years by the improvements and extensions made in the rail-
way services. No State is better served in these methods of
loeomotiony the National Bailroad traversing it from north to
south and the Central (branch line) from east to west, both
lines having handsome stations erected in a convenient portion
of the capital. Easy and rapid commanication is made with
the United States and with the shipping port of Tampico.
There are two smaller bat nsefol lines, rmming respectively
fFom Matehnala to La Paz, abont 21 kilometres, and the other
from Yanegas to Matehnala, about 47 kilometres. These are
practically mineral lines, but without them the rich mines
which they serve could barely be worked at a profit.

During the term of governorship held by Se&or Job6 M.
Espinosa y Guevas, many useful and wise enactments have
been introduced into the State of San Luis PotosL In the
capital, which bears the same name, a sanitary board keeps a
&m hand over the people and compels attention to cleanli-
ness and orderliness, which without some such supervision it
is safe to say no Mexican peon would consider necessary. The
consequence of this is a refreshingly-clean and well-kept city,
in strDdng contrast to some others ; a respectably-clad people,
few tatters and rags being seen on the public streets; and
some extremely handsome new buildings going up in many
directions. San Luis is not a beautiful city, as yet, but it is
fast becoming one. Unfortunately the streets, which are
narrow and the buildings on either side rather high for
Kexico, are paved with cobble-stones, neatly laid in pattern
form, but causing a terrible racket from the passage of heavy
wagons and builders' carts. Such pavements endure almost
for ever, as the original laying has been only too- well done ;
80 1 am afraid that San Luis will not be relieved from this
kind of trouble for some time to come.

In the matter of proper hotel accommodation the city has
also yet to earn its laurels. There are several hostelries in
the town, but not one of them has any claim to be considered
even a moderately good one. The Intemacional is situated
&vourably, being on the Alameda, which, one day, will be a

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110 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

fine and shady rendezvous ; but the aceommodation is primi-
tive, and the rooms are mostly dark and dreary. The Progr^so,
located in a narrow side street bat near the main plaza, is
managed by a German and his wife in a very indifferent
manner. The fornitore for the most part is good and ample,
and the rooms are well proportioned. But both the cvimie
and the attendanoe are very poor, and little or no attention is
paid to oomplaints.

One great drawback from which the city of San Lois Fotosi
suffers is the lack of a good and adequate water-supply. The
climate is an exceedingly dry one, rain sometimes failing for
more than twelve months at a time. The city possesses a
dam, but the quality of the water is poor. In one of the
public thoroughfares there are two fine wells, however, worked
by electric pumps, and these supply practically the whole of
the drinking-water of the community, the quality being per-
fectly pure and cool. The liquid is sold at one centavo a large
can ; and the consumers must come and draw it for themselves.
There are several other drinking-fountains scattered about the
city, but there is no house-to-house supply available at present.
It is the intention of the State Government to construct large
reservoirs in the neighbouring hills so soon as the public
finances warrant the outlay; and the question is already
before Congress. In spite of the deficient water-supply, San
Luis is a veiy healthful community, there being but little sick-
ness, and no case of epidemics for many years has been reported.

In the whole State there are some 178 Government and 162
Municipal schools, devoted to primary education. Several
institutions of a higher educational character are maintained
by the Government, one of the best being the Scientific and
Literary Institute, possessing a list of notable professors and
a large membership. Several distinguished scholars have
graduated from here. The State Library contains 100,000
volumes, while some of the Government buildings, such as
the Municipal Palace, the A16hndiga and the Lonja Mercantil,
are fine specimens of architecture.

The tramway service, horse and mule drawn, is poor and
inefficient. The oars are old and uncomfortable, but are by
strict State ordinance kept scrupulously clean. It cannot be
long before the town, which is very progressive and is enjoying

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FACTORIES AND MILLS 111

ffloch proeperity, will follow in the wake of others by installing
an electric-car service. The streets being perfectly straight,
ilthongh narrow, and the groand absolutely flat, the conversion
from animal to electric traction would be a matter of facility
and but moderate outlay. The cab service is very good, open,
single and double-horse buggies of the ** spider " type being
available at the moderate price of 60 centavos (Is.) an hour,
and no "pov/r boir " expected or asked.

The capital city is notable for the number of important
iaetories which it contains, and most of which I was permitted
to inspect The ready-made clothing factory known as La
Gnu, and belonging to Messrs. Enrique Zavalla y Cia, employs
160 women and 16 men. The whole of the cutting-out, sewing,
pressing and putting-on of the buttons is done by electrically-
driven machines, and it is surprising to note how time-saving
and otherwise economical these prove. The women use over
150 Singer electrically operated sewing-machines, and they
bus have no foot- work to do. The clothing, which comprises the
commoner kind of wearing apparel, as well as shirts and under-
clothing for men, is dold retail in the Company's own shops.

The small flour-mill, owned by Senor leturrei, and known
asMolino de San Luis, is situated on the line of the Mexican
Central railway. The machinery is entirely American, being
the product of the Nordyke and Marion Co., of Indianapolis,
Indiana, n.S.A. The space being limited, the machinery is
very crowded, and occupies but one-half the floor room which
it ahoald. The mill turns out 260 barrels, of 196 lbs. each
(say 500 bags), of flour daily. The wheat used now is entirely
Mexican, bat this is not equal in quality to the United States
gnun. Since the Mexican Government increased the duty to
3 cts. per kilo from 1^ cts., it has been found impracticable to
torther import wheat from the States. The import formerly
stood at 5 cts. per kilo.

The San Luis brewery, although a small undertaking in
comparison with the Orizaba, Toluca and Monterey breweries,
produces a very excellent pilsener and lager beer, which enjoys
considerable vogue throughout the State, and even beyond it.
It employs about 180 men and boys, and has all the latest
bottle -washing and filling machinery, and an up-to-date
brewing plant.

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112 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

There are likemse several paint, candle, pottery, soap and
hat factories, giving employment to a large number of men,
women and children, bat the rates of labour are lower here
than in many of the States of the Bepublic.

The furniture factory of Jorge Unna and Cia affords
evidence that both in beauty of design and excellence of
manufacture the Mexicans have little to learn. Some of the
most elegant furniture is made at this large and well-planned
factory, which constantly employs 400 men who work on
'* piece," a system found mutually satisfactory. Every article
turned out is to special design and order, scarcely any-
thing being duplicated except for suites, no stock being
kept on the premises. Elaborately carved church choir-stalls,
a bishop's throne, brass altar rails, and an exquisitely designed
altar were a few of the articles in process of manufacture at
the time of my visit.

I was also shown an expensive and very vulgar suite of
drawing-room furniture, the brightest of crimson damask and
the gaudiest of gilded frames, made to the special order of
Pedro Alvarez, the millionaire mine-owner of Parrlil, who
was formerly a peon-miner, and apparently adheres to his early
tastes for sumptuous ostentation.

Messrs. Jorge Unna and Cia have likewise turned out a
number of weird machines and apparatus for eccentric in-
ventors; and they assured me that while they faithfully
execute all orders of this kind, which they find very remunera-
tive, they have never known one of them to have succeeded
from a practical point of view, nor to have brought to their
inventors anything but trouble or financial disaster. The
firm sent several suites of their furniture to the St. Louis
Exhibition, 1904, where they were awarded the Gold Medal,
and found a purchaser for their goods. The freight and pack-
ing expenses were so heavy, however, and the U.S. Govern-
ment charged so high a duty upon the goods, that the
manufacturers in the end came out losers, and they doubt
very much whether their time, trouble and outlay brought
them any adequate return.

There are 4 cotton factories, making bleached and fancy
(grey domestic) goods, mostly worked with Mexican capital,

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GOYERNOR OP SAN LUIS POTOSI 113

very little foreign money being thus employed. The manu-
foetores are not of the highest class, bat they secure a ready
sale on account of their cheapness among the peon consumers,
especially the women.

Another tobacco factory of some importance is that of
Antonio Delgado Renteria, of San Luis Fotosi, established
in I860, and employing about 400 men and women. Most of
the cigarette machinery in use is of German and American
design ; but the manufacturers make the whole of the cigars
and cheroots by hand, no machine as yet invented for these,
they declare, haviug proved satisfactory. The whole of the
tobacco used is Mexican, and the output of the factory is
consumed entirely in Mexico. The labour is both extremely
cheap and abundant. For maldng 2,000 cigarettes by hand
the payment is 40 centavos (say lOd.), and the most ex-
peditious workers cannot earn more than 80 centavos (Is. 8d.)
a day, the average being from 40 — 60 centavos. The
cigarettes which are made by hand are sold at the lowest
prices, these being as little as 8 centavos (less than fd.) for
21 cigarettes, or 40 boxes, each containing 21 cigarettes, for
$1.00 (2s.). The cigars and cheroots sell at from $20.00 (£2)
to $80.00 (£8) per 1,000, according to the quality. The
factory pays $7.00 (14s.) per arroba, about 26 lbs., for the
raw material, and buys in great quantities, and in any market
which offers in the Republic. Each packet bears a ^c.
Grovemment stamp.

Don Jos6 Maria Espinosa y Guevas, the Governor of San
Luis Potosi, is 47, and looks even less. He is extremely
vigorous, and regards work as the one thing worth living for.
As an engineer, he has attained great eminence, since he
was one of the principal surveyors and constructors of that
remarkable piece of line between the port of Tampico and the
City of San Luis Potosi, probably as fine a piece of construc-
tion, through a most difficult country, as one can find any-
where. Don Jos6 Espinosa y Guevas has been Governor of
the State of San Luis for about three years, having succeeded
Senor Don Bias Escontria, who became Minister of Fomento,
and died early in 1906.

One of the Governor's principal '* fads," if one may call so

VOL. n. 29

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114 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTUEY

excellent a Bentiment a ** fad," is education for the masses,
believing, with Pope the poet, that

*' 'Tie education shapes the oommon mind :
As the twig is bent, the tree's inclined."

He advocates the teaching of languages in such manner as
they may prove serviceable in commercial intercourse, and not
merely as a mental drill ; and he has put his principles into
practice by teaching himself English, which he both speaks
and writes fairly well. Through his efforts, the public schools
at San Luis Potosi are well attended, due, no doubt, to the
practical methods which he has caused to be adopted.

He has done much for his State by insisting upon the
construction of good roads and increasing railway communica-
tions, and the San Luis of to-day is a very different place to
the San Luis of, say, 6 years ago. His excellency has
travelled somewhat in the United States of America and
England. Li fact, he has lived in London, and like most
Mexicans, he prefers it to New York. Li this respect he is
not unlike many Americans, who put their ideas to the
crucial test by living in the '' Little Village " for the greater
part of their time.

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San Lns I'otosi. — Church of Kl Carmen in the City of San Luis Potosi.

Vkrackl'Z. — A Street in the Town of Oriza'jj

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CHAPTER XLIX

Statb of 80NORA : Temperature and products— MineralB — United States
markets and capital — Americsui Trade — Hermosillo — Sunset
EfTecte — Labour riots and their causes. Statb of Sinaloa: Pic-
turesque country — Sparse and scattered population — Agriculture-
Port of MazatUJA — Topolobampo — Land schemes and their victims.
Statb of TiiAXOala : Lidependent Republic — Interesting associations
—Climate — Export trade— Small population. State of Tabasoo :
Agriculture and mining — Government.

With one exception, Sonora is the largest State in the
Republic of Mexico, and while several years hence it will
^questionably become one of the most important of the
Union, it is at present but partially developed, a fact which
niay be due to the great difficulty which the Government has
met with in subduing the wild hordes of Indians known as
Yaqois (and who have infested the most fertile and productive
portion of the State), on the one part, and the absence of
^ilway communication on the other. The boundaries are
the States of Arizona and New Mexico (U.S.A.) on the north ;
Chihuahua on the east ; the Gulf of California on the west ,
ftnd Sinaloa on the south. With a coast-line of some 860 kilo-
iiietres, from the mouth of the Colorado Biver to the Port of
Agiabampo, the State has a total area of close on 200,000
square kilometres, or, to be exact, 198,496.

It must not, however, be assumed that the whole of this is
productive land. As a matter of fact, the Sonora littoral is
low and arid and entirely useless for cultivation, and one
peculiarity of the climate is that rain falls from a cloudless
^d serene sky. It can be excessively cold in the mountains,
but it is temperate on the slopes, and high and dry near the
<^8t and in the valleys. Although the soil is naturally fertile,
^here is a complete lack of adequate irrigation facilities. Such
products as are grown include cereals, tobacco, cotton, sugar-

116 29—2

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116 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

cane and fruits. Official figures state that the number of
plantations in Sonora is at present under 800, and may be
divided as follows: Sugar-cane 45, cereals 180, fruits 4,
maguey 8, tobacco 18, and cattle ranches make up the re-
mainder. The State's production is approximately $3,950,000
in cereals, $45,000 sugar-cane products, $800,000 maguey and
$65,000 tobacco. Whereas at one time cattle was exported to
the U.S.A., the American (Tovemment has of late imposed
such high duties, which are almost prohibitive, that this
branch of commerce has largely decreased.

It is not perhaps surprising to find so little attention given
to agricultural pursuits in Sonora in view of the strong
temptation which is offered to indulge in mining, this, at
present at least, being far better paid than agriculture is ever
likely to be.

As I have already pointed out, however, with proper irriga-
tion large sections of the State of Sonora at present un-
touched could be brought into agricultural production, and
probably no better soil could be found for the raising of the
sugar-beet than is here ready at hand. The rich alluvial soil
of the numerous valleys could also be utilised for the cultiva-
tion of tobacco; while wheat, com, alfalfa, mealies, and
vegetables of all kinds, and most descriptions of fruits, could
be cultivated very profitably. With so much sugar already
raised in the northern part of the State, it is remarkable that
no central refinery has as yet been erected. No doubt the
enterprising capitalists who are thronging into Sonora from
the U.S.A. will see the advisability of supplying this want,
which I have very little doubt will prove extremely profitable.

On the other side of the Yaqui Biver there are to be found
some very rich agricultural lands, which are further favoured
with an abundance of water all the year round. Here can be
grown all kinds of fruits and vegetables, only the smallest
amount of attention being necessary. Moreover, this produce
ripens a full month or six weeks before California and Arizona
products, so that a ready market will be found in the U.S.A.
In the meantime, however, the home market is proving an
excellent customer, since the population of Sonora is con-
tinually increasing owing to the new mines which are coming
into operation, and the increased amount of labour being

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TRADE AND INDUSTRIES 117

imported. One of the greatest advantages of this State is the
abundance of water for all practioal purposes, including that
of irrigation.

The town of Goaymas is receiving a great fillip by the con-
Btraetion of a new smelter, and it is from the State of Sonora
that the Globe (Arizona) smelters have been deriving much
of their sulphide ore, the absence of which has, in times past,
greatly handicapped operations at the Old Dominion smelter.
With the erection of the Guaymas smelter, a great many
mines located in the surrounding country will come into
active operation. There is no question that the construction
of the new line of railway will also be the means of opening-up
one of the richest mining sections of the Republic of Mexico.

In the State of Sonora up till the end of December, 1905,
foreigners were debarred from working or appropriating
mining claims owing to the danger that they incurred from
the raids of the turbulent Yaquis. With the revocation and
rescinding of this ordinance, a fresh impetus was given to
mining in the State, while at the same time it showed clearly
enough that the long-existing trouble caused by the Taquis
was at an end.

The cancelling of the prohibition naturally meant a great
deal to the numerous prospectors and capitalists, who were
interested in the original mining districts affected, more
eepeciaUy those residing across the border, in the States of
Arizona, New Mexico and Texas (U.S.A.). Round about the
neighbourhood of the town of Guaymas, which has a popula-
tion of about 19,000, there are some promising coal-beds,
which are being worked with modem capital and indicate a
sufficiently encouraging return. Hermosillo is the State
capital, and has a population of 11,000. This district is also
bdieved to be very rich in minerals.

Hermosillo possesses a large number of handsome public
buildings, among these being the Federal assay-office, a
cathedral, a public library and Government Palace.

The inhabitants of the State of Sonora are, taken as a
whole, an exceedingly peaceable and thrifty set, and although
^t year a great deal of trouble was occasioned at Cananea
among the miners employed there, those who know the peon
populace of the State emphatically pronounce them to be

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118 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

among the xnoet respectable and law-abiding of the Bepablic.
Like other high-spirited people, however, they decline to be
treated like brutes, as was the case when they revolted against
the bailies who had charge of them at the Greene copper
mines.

Certain it is that they are a very thrifty lot, and have fully
profited by the high wages which have prevailed for the most
part at the Cananea mines. Some men have averaged $5 (10s.)
per day, and very few made], less than $2.50 (5s.). The
labouring classes throughout the mining district live well
and manage to procure all the necessities of life, as well as
many of its luxuries — butter, canned goods, American
groceries and first-class bread being commonly used by them.

The Bank of Cananea, which is chosen by most of the
peons as the receptacle of their savings, reports that it holds
a large number of current accounts belonging to miners
ranging from $100 to $1,000 (£10 to £100). Deposits of
$100 and over create a total of nearly $50,000, entirely repre-
sented by the savings of Mexican labourers in the employ of
the mines, which have between 5,000 and 6,000 men on their
regular pay rolls. A general air of prosperity prevails through-
out the town, while the whole State of Sonora, when opened-
up, as I have indicated, by a new line of railway, will probably
advance to the front ranks of the States of the Bepublic.

Among other enterprises which have started in the State of
Sonora may be mentioned a furniture factory, an implement
and wagon factory, a^distillery, a match and candle factory,
a cigar factory, a tannery and a soap factory. In July of
1906 the Mexican free zone, a strip of land along the northern
boundary of the U.S.A. 12| miles wide, was abolished, which
meant the raising of a duty of 10 per cent, on imports. This
has naturally led to the establishment of the several manufao-
turies to which I have referred, and may possibly lead to the
introduction of still more.

The town of Cananea is a long straggling place, typically
an American mining settlement, and destined, no doubt, to
become a very flourishing centre at no distant date. It
already possesses several handsome private residences, two
or three very fair hotels, and a public hall. The roads are as
yet left in their primitive state, which is one of deep sand.

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CANANEA— SINALOA 119

eonverted during the rainy season into thick and sticky mad.
A good deal of drunkenness unfortxmately exists, and the
mines managements do little or nothing to check the evil.
Crime naturally exists here, especially among the lower-class
peons and the Chinese.

There is a continual increase in the investment of
capital in this part of Mexico from the United States, not
only for the purpose of developing mines, bat also for timber
and grazing land. The latter are being stocked with improved
breeds of cattle in spite of the heavy daties prevailing, while
of mining interests, which are mainly scattered along the
Sierra Madre slopes, I speak at length in my general chapter
on mining.

The internal commanications of the State of Sonora are at
present poor, the only railway traversing the State being the
Goaymas and Nogales, known as the '* Sonora road," some
428 kilometres in length. It rans from Nogales in Arizona,
and connects with the Soathem Pacific Baikoad. The line
18 profitable in the extreme, bat very badly managed. The
Company is now completing a line from Gaaymas to Gaadala-
jara, with a branch connecting with Naco, which is the
border-town between the U.S.A. and Mexico. Faller par-
ticalars will be foand of this line and its contemplated ex-
tension in my chapter dealing with railways ander con-
struction. (Pp. 286-287, Vol. I.).

Sinaloa is one of the Pacific States, and althoagh, at the
present time, some seven-tenths of its immense area is on-
cultivated and practically unknown, it is boand to become at
1^0 distant date one of the most prominent territories of the
Republic. A great railway is being completed from the north
to the south, which will open-up a tract of land, which is
pronounced by experts to be among the most fertile and richly
i^eralised in Mexico.

To the north are Sonora and Ohihaahua ; on the east are
Chihuahua and Durango ; on the sou^h the Territory of Topic
^d the Pacific Ocean; while on the west is the Gulf of
California. With its area of 71,880 square kilometres, and a
sea-Goast measuring 510 kilometres, the entire population is
^der 800,000.

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120 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

A onique geographical feature of the State is the long range
of mountains in the north, reaching oat at right-anglee from
the Sierra Madre in a westerly direction, to within 36 miles
of the Gulf of California. It is in these mountains that tbe
great mineral wealth is said to be mainly deposited, while in
the valleys, of which there are several, probably no finer
cotton-land exists than is to be found here. The coach-road
leads across the Sinaloa river, winding through an extremely
picturesque valley, in which may be found flourishing cane-
fields with their attendant sugar-mills, corn-fields, and
pastures covered with healthy-looking cattle. On all sides
are to be seen densely-wooded hills and rugged mountains,
among the latter being conspicuous the imposing Sierra Madre,
crowned by the precipitous peaks of Casanate.

With so many fine rivers, it may be well understood that
the State is one of the best-irrigated sections of the Bepublic.
The Fuerte, for instance, is 670 kilometres in length, the
Sinaloa is 420, the Culiacdn 250, the Elota 221, the Piaxtle
208, and several, such as the Quila, the Presidio and the
Charmetla, are anything between 150 and 180 kilometres in
length. Besides the numerous tributaries which all these
rivers possess, there are some 200 smaller streams traversing
the State, forming one of the finest watersheds in the Bepublic
of Mexico. The climate generally is agreeable, but rains
are too abundant in the mountainous districts, where the
precipitation is excessive.

Agriculture is the main industry of this State, cereals,
cotton, tobacco, sugar-cane, coffee, and fruit-growing to per-
fection, all being followed very largely. There are at present
some 121 plantations in the State, divided as follows: —
cotton 9, sugar-cane 20, cereals 20, maguey 24, and about
48 cattle ranches. The estimated value of their products
is as follows : — Sugar $2,000,000, sugar-cane products
$1,600,000, maguey $200,000, tobacco $38,000, and ixtle
$36,000. Cattle-raising, which is one of the principal in-
dustries of the State, has an annual estimated value of
$10,000,000.

The principal port, viz. that of Mazatl^n, receives and
discharges a considerable amount of this State's foreign trade,
but, unfortunately, the Port of Mazatl^ is very inadequately

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LAND SPECULATIONS 121

provided with sliippmg accommodation and appliances, and
the Federal Government are Berionsly contemplating spending
several millions here, as they have already done with ex-
cellent resulta at Manzanillo. The other customs-port is Altata.
In regard to internal communication the State is as yet
very deficiently served. The Sinaloa and Durango Railway,
which is also ^own as the Western Mexican, runs between
Ahata, the port, and the Ouliac&n de Bosales, which is the
diief-town of the State, with about 10,500 inhabitants, and
situated 1,478 kilometres from Mexico City. The length of
the railway is about 62 kilometres, but it is indifferently run,
and the rates are higher than are considered reasonable.

The International Bailroad has constructed a branch line
trom Villa Lardo, in the State of Durango, to Topolobampo,
which is the Pacific terminus for the Kansas City, Mexico and
Orient Bailroad, now being constructed, and of which full
particulars wfll be found elsewhere in this volume. The
Southern Paci&c Bailroad, as already mentioned, is gradually
eontinuing its line — the Gananea, Bio Yaqui and Pacific
Bailroad — ^from Agiabampo and Topolobampo.

Some of the immense tracts of untouched land, in one case
amounting to several million acres, have been taken up by
speculative American syndicates with the idea of colonisation.
In regard to these propositions, however, the utmost caution
should be exercised by intending settlers, in view of the
^distressing experiences which have already been met with in
other parts of Mexico, and to which I refer with more full-
Q688 later on. No doubt the valley of Sinaloa offers good
opportunities for agricultural horticulture, viticulture and
stock-breeding purposes, but settlers who purpose acquiring
holdings from Land Companies should inquire very closely
into the terms upon which their allotments are granted, for
numy of these same companies are sharks of the very worst
dsscription, and once they obtain a hold upon an investor or
ft settler, they are absolutely conscienceless in their exactions.
Bitter are the complaints of many of those who have trusted
them in Mexico as elsewhere, but unfortunately fresh victims
always seem to be forthcoming. The commercial conquest of
Sinaloa has not yet been accomplished, and it will take several
fears yet before settiers can expect any return upon their

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122 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTUEY

invesiauentB. The State Govermnent may be urged to do
Bomething more than it dooB at present to Bafeguard the
interests of new settlers and to relieve them, as far as it can,
from the danger of falling into the hands of speculators and
land-sharks.

Tlaxcala, which means the '' the land of bread/' is the
smallest State in the Bepnblic of Mexico, its total territory not
exceeding 4,182 square kilometres. Nevertheless it has a
population of 172,815, according to the latest statistics, which
shows an appreciable increase over that of the previous census,
which placed it at 168,244. With its average of 41*68 in-
habitants to the square kilometre, Tlaxcala ranks amongst the
most thickly-populated States in the Union, only the Federal
District showing a better return.

At one time Tlaxcala was known as the Tlaxcalteca Bepublic,
and was inhabited by an exceedingly warlike and brave race,
quite unlike the Aztecs, and in those far-off days numbered
about 800,000, instead of about 4,000 at which they are
estimated to-day. The precise origin of these interesting
people is difficult to trace in historical data. All that is
known of them to-day is that the supreme power of the
democracy was vested in a Senate of four, chosen by the
Bepublic. For a long time it held its own against the Aztec
empire, of which Moctezuma II. was king, as it had held it
against many of his equally haughty predecessors. When
the Conquerors came to New Spain, the Tlaxcalan Bepublic
was the only part of the country which they could not subdue,
and the braves of that place were proof against both their
bribes and their threats. In the end, however, treachery
succeeded in accomplishing what strategy and persistency
could not effect. Tlaxcala was eventually captured, and
Gort6s became its master.

The modern State of Tlaxcala covers precisely the same
territory as it did in the days of the ancient Bepublic, but the
site of the capital city has been altered. The modem city
lies in the valley formed by the surrounding hills, whereas the
ancient city, in order to better its defence, was built high on
the hills themselves. As one enters the town the hill of
Ocatl4n stands out clearly to the left, and it is here that the

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City of TEiirAr.NTKi'Kc. — Avenida del Ferro Cnrril.

Step. 92.1

.^.Jj^

A Strkkt in thk City of Coi.ima.

^'^P'27.\

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TLAXCALA 128

palace of Maxixcatzin, the chief of the Tlaxcalane, who defied
the Spanish conquerors, was located. On the same spot has
now been erected the Church of the Sanctuary, which was
built by the pious senators and four Tlaxcalan chieftains who
accepted '' the faith " doubtless at the spear's point, for it was
in that simple but efficacious way that the Spaniards usually
converted the unbelieving native.

The situation of this little State is very favourable, lying as
it does some 2,000 metres above the level of the Gulf, and
forming a portion of the great central-plateau itself. The
mountain ranges which extend roundabout include the eastern
dopes of the famous Popocatapetl, which rises by gentle slopes
to ttie west of the State ; while towards the south is Malintzi,
with its snow-capped peak some 4,120 metres in height, and
&e Xaltonale, 8,850 metres high. There are likewise several
fertile valleys, such as Huamantla, Pi6 Grande, Apam and
Zahuapam, while the fine, broad river of the same name
empties itself into Atoyac. Other water courses are the
Negros, Tenexac, Achiachiapam, Tot61ac and Tequixquiatl.

Perhaps it would be difficult to find a more thoroughly
agreeable climate than that of Tlaxcala, the rainfall being
very moderate throughout the year, and there being a pleasant
touch of frost in the air during the early winter mornings.
Agriculture is the principal pursuit of this State, cereals and
pnlque forming the chief class of products. Considering its
Ihnited area, the number of plantations which are to be found
bere may be considered extremely satisfactory, there being,
according to the latest calculation, about 160 of these, many
of them of considerable size and importance. About 100 are
^voted to cereals, 48 to maguey, and the remainder to cattle-
nuBing. Although gold, silver, lead, cinnabar and a small
proportion of coal have been found in the State, it does not
^ank of any importance as a mining district. The value of
its annual commerce is estimated at about $8,000,000 (Mex.),
the principal export being that of pulque, which finds its way
to the City of Mexico and Pu^bla, as well as to the adjacent
^tes. I have seen numerous specimens of the maguey plant
^ Tlaxcala, where it seems to be grown to perfection. I
bdifive there are some 125 species of the maguey to be found
throughout the Bepublic, but nowhere have I seen the plant

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124 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

grow more abnndantly than on the elevated plateau, of which
Tlaxcala forme part.

There are several mills devoted to the manufacture of paper
and cotton, and altogether the State is a remarkably enter-
prising one, and, in proportion to its size, contributes very
considerably to the national wealth. In point of internal
communication there are three railroads which cross the
State, the Mexican Railway, the Interoceanic and the Santa
Ana and Tlaxcala, the latter a local and destined at some
future time to becdme a more important line.

The State capital, which bears the same name, has bat
8,000 inhabitants, but, in spite of this fact, it possesses several
substantial and handsome buildings, which include a theatre
known as the Xicotentad and a bull-ring of considerable
dimensions. The City claims to be ** in direct communica-
tion with the City of Mexico " ; but it is necessary to add that
on leaving the train at the small station of Santa Ana, the
traveller has to journey 6 miles in a broken-down horse-car,
which is divided into " first " and " second " class, one being
only a trifle more uncomfortable than the other. But if the
means of transit is poor, the country through which the
traveller is borne is extremely interesting, the track running
through acres of highly-cultivated fields between tall hedges,
covered with wild-flowers, through many picturesque, clean
little towns, across a river and past the famous Church of
San Esteb&n. The two mighty volcanoes Popocatapetl and
Ixtaccihuatl, dazzling white and glistening in the sunlight or
rose-tinted in the sunset, are continually in view, and make
the journey interesting on their account alone. The Cathedral
is particularly attractive to archseologists, containing as it
does the first Christian pulpit to be erected in Mexico. There
is a tradition which states that Tlaxcala was the first place
selected by the mythical eagle which now forms the national
emblem of Mexico, and which is said to have settled at this
place before it flew on to Mexico City, or what was then known
as Tenochtitlan, at the command of the God HuitzilopochtlL

It is only within the past few years that the State of Tabasco
has commenced to be opened-up, and even now but the fringe
of this fine stretch of territory has been touched. It lies in

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TABASCO 125

the extreme south-eaBtem part of the Republic, and, although
poeaeBsing 26,094 square kilometres of area, its entire popu-
lation is less than 160,000. A glanee at the map will show
that the State possesses a stretch of some 190 kilometres of
coast-line, on the Gulf of Mexico, which forms its northern
boundary, the State of Gampeche being on the east, Chiapas
on the south, Veracruz on the west, and the Bepublic of
Guatemala on the south-east. Strangely enough, although
the coast-line is very low, it is generally found to be perfectly
healthfal, and very little disease has been known there.

There are neither bays, harbours, nor capes on this stretch

of coast, but vessels find safe anchorage in the mouths of the

rivers, which are called "bars," the principal of which are

the San Pueblo and the San Pedro, which are formed by

the rivers bearing the same name uniting at the boundary

between the States of Tabasco and Campeche. There are

additional bars formed by the rivers Tabasco, Front^ra,

Grijalva and the Chiltepec, which is the widest and deepest

of all. Except towards the south and south-east, where a

spur of the Sierra Madre mountains rises. Tabasco may be

described as a tolerably flat, plain State, only but slightly

broken by hillocks and river beds. It is the latter, however,

^hieh give such a remarkable fertility to the soil, there being

probably no State in the Bepublic which has a more valuable

bydrographic system. The climate is decidedly hot, but it is

tonpered by the large amount of water, while the rainfall is

also abundant. The fauna eknA flora of Tabasco are practically

endless in variety, and every species of both, found in every

other part of the Bepublic as well as in the most tropical

countries, can be met with here.

The great feature of Tabasco, to my mind, will lie in its
agricultural resources when properly developed; but there
are individuals who have traversed the State perhaps a great
deal more than I have, who declare that agriculture must
^ve place eventually to mining. These authorities state that
Tabasco is par excellence a coming mining State, but this of
eoorse has to be proved. It only remains to add that, up to
now, mining has received but scant attention, if I except a
little fossicking which has been done in connection with coal,
asphaltum and cinnabar.

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126 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTUBY

On the other hand, Messrs. S. Pearson and Son, Ltd., who
have expended both time, money and patience upon prose-
cuting the research for payable petroleum in the States of
Veracruz and Oaxaca, have lately gone into Tabasco, where,
I am told, the promise of success is considerable.

Considering how little is known of the State, and the small
amount of foreign capital which has been invested there, up
till now, commerce is being fairly well developed. There are
some 500 commercial houses established in Tabasco, repre-
senting a native capital investment of $5,000,000 (Mex.),
which may not appear very much, but it nevertheless forma
the nucleus of a future prosperity. The annual foreign trade
at present scarcely exceeds in value $500,000, representing
imports $850,000 (Mex.) and exports $150,000. The leading
articles of export are dye and cabinet woods, hides and
skins, coffee, tobacco and rubber, while the imports include
practically all manufactured articles. So far there have been
no railways built in the State, if I except a few horse-trams,
varying between 6 and 10 kilometres each, nor do I know of
any which are contemplated. The rivers afford for part of
the year excellent means of intercommunication. The river
transit systems support several lines of steamers, all of which
appear to carry good freights and a large number of pas-
sengers, except during the dry season, when the rivers are
too low to support them. The wagon-roads and mule-patha
are laid all over the State, and are maintained in fairly good
condition, which is easy, owing to the general flatness of the
country.

The principal town is San Juan Bautista, which is the
State capital, with about 11,000 inhabitants. The city is by
no means an unpleasant one in which to live, in spite of the
great heat which prevails there during the greater part of
the year. It contains several substantial and even handsome
buildings, among these being the Palace of the Legislative
and Executive powers, while several churches, hospitals and
a theatre may be included among the other show edifices.
The Governor is General Abraham Bandala, who was re-
elected for his second term by a practically unanimous vote
on November 17th, 1906.

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CHAPTER L

Statb of Tamaulipas: Topographical conditions — Biohness of soil —
Agricultural productions — Port of Tampico — Great improvements
— Central Hallway's extensions — Projected short line — Shipping
— Bemarkable increase — ^Promising progress — Ciudad Victoria —
Governor Pedro ArgUelles — Progressive policy — Encouraging foreign
capital — Opportunities for favourable investment — Great timber re-
Bourcea — ^Beauties of scenic surroundings — State's finances — A healthy
condition. Tbbbitobt of Tepio: Agriculture — Bichness of soil —
Great wheat prospects — Tobacco — ^Lack of railways — Population —
Flood disasters.

Tamaulipas is one of the five Gulf States, and the largest, after
Tacat&n. With its population of 220,000, it has an average
of but 2*61 inhabitants to the square kilometre, the area of the
State being nearly 84,000 square kilometres.

Of all the States in the Republic, Tamaulipas is one of the
i&irast, and it has been richly endowed in practically every
desirable attribute — ^in its soil, in its vast tracts of timber, in
ite magnificent navigable rivers and in its minerals; while
Menically it undoubtedly occupies one of the most beautiful
sections of Mexico. Its coast-Une stretches from the border of
the Rio Bravo, on the north, to Tampico, on the south, an
orient of 400 kilometres, the whole length being a succession
of sandbanks. Practically the whole of this portion is un-
uihabited, the main population being scattered round about
the Port of Tampico and the capital. Ciudad Victoria.

The central and southern parts of the State are very
mountainous, while the northern part contains some exten-
sive fertile plains, admirably adapted for stock-raising.
Among these is the Valley of Jaumave, the natural beauty of
which it is impossible to describe, but which has been pro-
uoimced by world-wide travellers as ranking among the most

127

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128 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

loxoriant and impoBing that the world has to offer. The foar
largest rivers in the State, all of which can be made navigable
for almost their entire length with very little outlay, are the
Bio Bravo del Norte, which forms the boundary-line between
Mexico and the U.S.A. ; the Soto de la Marina, which is
already easily navigable for 50 kilometres from its mouth ;
and the Ouayalejo, with a large number of picturesque and
useful tributaries. There are also several salt-water lakes on
the Gulf Coast, the largest being the Laguna Madre, 210 kilo-
metres in length, and containing several small islands, while
the Pesquerias is 84 kilometres long and also contains several
small islands. The Tordo, San Andres, Chairel and the Car-
pintero are all of importance.

Bich and diverse are the fauna and flora found in this State,
which is no less remarkable for the rapidity with which its
prolific soil can be brought to perfection. The principal pro-
ducts among an immense variety are cereals, leguminoas
plants, sugar-cane, coffee, tobacco, cotton, and maguey. The
plantations, of which there are between 80 and 90 of impor-
tance, are usually of great extent, land being remarkably cheap
at the present time. There are some 8 cotton estates, 28
devoted to sugar-cane, 25 to cereals and the remainder to
cattle-raising, the combined value of their annual production
being between $1,150,000 to $1,250,000 (Mex.) for cereals;
$80,000 for sugar-cane products; $85,000 for cotton, and
$15,000 for coffee. Vegetable and fruit orchards are main-
tained with very little trouble in this sun-blessed and well-
watered land, principally upon the stretch which lies between
the Gulf and the Tamiahua Lagoon. Although this piece of
land is barely 5 miles in width at its widest part, it probably
contains some of the richest ground to be met with anywhere
in Mexico. The winter-fruit and vegetable-growing industry
will probably become one of the most profitable businesses in
Tamaulipas, and those ranchmen and settlers to whom I have
spoken on the subject in every case assured me that they had
secured large profits on their shipments, principally, however,
in connection with tomatoes. Others have succeeded beyond
their expectations in hog-raising, which, it would appear, pays
handsome profits at the prices fetched to-day by lard, ham
and bacon. An American ranch-owner is engaged in opening-

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INDUSTRIAL RESOURCES 129

np land to plant ribbon-cane, and he stated that *' there is no
crop in the world which pays better than cane, nor a country
on earth which grows a finer quality than Mexico."

If one may judge from the glutted appearance of Tampico
fruit-market, which handles almost exclusively the produce
grown in the district, the claims made for the fertility of
the soil are well substantiated. Nowhere can one find finer
aguacate or mangoes, while the oranges and apples will vie
with any grown elsewhere.

Fibre-growing promises to be a very important industry in
the arid region which is found in the centre of the State.
While henequ^n has made Yucatan one of the wealthiest
agrictdtural communities in the world, it is also destined to do
a great deal for Tamaulipas, where, it is said, the plant can be
grown much more cheaply than in Yucat^, and where it
poBsesses no enemies.

With regard to stock-raising, good specimens of horses and
cattle are being imported from the ranches of the interior,
where the climate is admirably adapted to cattle-raising, by
reason of a happy medium between the tropics, where insects
and particularly ticks are troublesome, and further north,
where the winters are too cold. Upon the open prairie land
of Tamaulipas stock thrive remarkably well, natural grass
being found there in abundance all the year round, the stock
needing no extra food or shelter.

The Port of Tampico is not precisely on the coast, but
situated several miles up the river Fanuco, a remarkably noble
stream in which the navies of the world could ride with ease,
and which accommodates the largest and deepest ocean-
steamers. Since the Government, in conjunction with the
Mexican Central Railway, built the new jetties, and the Port
has been provided with a range of handsome and commodious
customs and ware-houses, the increase in the Port's shipping
has been immense. Between 600 and 660 vessels enter Tam-
pico annually, and I do not think that I exaggerate when I say
that in a few years hence this number will be almost doubled.
The future importance of this Port can hardly be over-
estimated, handling, as it does, and must always do, the
greater part of the international business of the Republic.
The Mexican Central Railroad Co. are now constructing, at
VOL. II. 80

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180 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

an enormouB outlay, a new short-line of railway which will
connect the Port of Tampico with the Capital of the Bepublio,
and, when finished, an additional amount of through traffic
from the Eastern ports of the United States must inevitably
come over this system. The freight will then be brought to
Tampico through the Atlantic and Mexican Ports, and then on
to Mexico City by the new short-line, reducing the length of
the haulage by nearly 1,000 kilometres.

The work already carried out by the Central Bailway stands
as a lasting monument to their industry and enterprise. Upon
the construction of the works more than 1,000,000 tons of
rock have been quarried, fully 70 miles away in the mountains,
and hauled car by oar down to the coast, where it has been
used for the construction of long sea-walls, situated about
1,000 feet below, and extending some 7,000 feet into the Gulf.
By cutting through a long natural bar, the largest vessels
have been permitted to enter into a smooth and completely
land-locked harbour. The long stretch of brick and stone
wharves, extending across the harbour front, although found
to be insufficient either in number or capacity to-day, owing
to the vastly increased proportion of this Port's business, show
how considerably the Central Bailway Co. has improved
Tampico, and this may be regarded as an earnest of what its
great enterprise and vast resources will still further effect in
the immediate future.

The principal imports handled at Tampico comprise timber
(chiefly cedar-wood), ixtle, fustic, hides, sarsaparilla, honey,
silver, lead, copper and other commodities. The mechanical
facilities for handling these articles are both numerous and
thoroughly up-to-date, while the systematic manner in which
the Port's business is arranged generally can alone prevent
congestion, a drawback from which it has suffered acutely in
times past.

The increase in the Port's shipping I have already referred
to. I have seen as many as 5 or 6 ocean-going steamera
with their cargoes waiting in mid-channel off the Port for an
available berth. These steamers were variously laden with
steel rails, coke, coal, and structural iron, and such cargoes
continue to arrive at Tampico with increasingly large consign-
ments at the time of writing. In one case, a steamer was in

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Wharf at Tampico built by the Central Railway for the Mexican Government.

Tampico by moonlight, unloading steamer.

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TAMPICO 181

port for 18 days before its ccurgo eoald be handled, whcurf
space and berths, as well as labour, alike being at a premium.

Three different railroad lines traverse the State, the
Mexican Central being the most important, the other two
being the Mexican National and the Monterey and Gulf.
The latter crosses the State diagonally from west to north-
east, while the former traverses it twice, first in the north-
west and again in the north. I look for a considerable
bosiness development in railway construction in the State of
Tamaulipas, as the State Government offers every facility and
encouragement to this as well as to all other kinds of legitimate
enterprise.

The Tampioo and Tuxpan canal has been under construc-
tion for the past four years, and its approximate cost, when
completed, will be nearly $1,000,000. It stretches from the
Panuco river at Tampico into the great Tamiahua Laguna,
through Lakes Mojarras and Tampamachoco, and thence into
Taxpan river. From Panuco to the Tamiahua Laguna the route
of the old Chijol de Megana canal is followed ; the dredging of
wide passage-ways through the Laguna and lakes has been
completed, and all that now remains of the construction work is
the finishing of about 2| kilometres leading into Tuxpan river.
A goodly portion of the canal has been in use for some months,
ftnd by the time these lines appear in print steamers of light
draft will be plying upon it between Tampico and Tuxpan
without any necessity of entering the Gulf. The canal is of
Bofficient width at all places to admit of the passage at one
time of several steamers.

Tampioo as a place of residence possesses some attractions,
the climate, in spite of the heat, which is found very trying
at certain seasons of the year, being far from unpleasant.
There is a village some few miles from Tampico known as La
Barra (The Bar), where there is to be found one of the finest
sea beaches in the world and a magnificent rolling surf. The
Warmth of the atmosphere enables one to indulge in sea-
bathing all the year round. Pavilions and dressing-rooms are
&0W being erected, and trains cure run several times a day
between Tampico and La Barra, where is also established the
fiiie hospital belonging to the Central Railway Co., a most
^ceUently managed and comfortable institution.

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182 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTUEY

The capital of the State, Ciudad Victoria, is in part typically
Spanish in its architecture, while it is wholly so in the
peaceful solitude which broods over it daring the greater part
of the day. Life passes pleasantly enough in this secluded
town, free from excitement and turmoil, and where, in their
agreeable absence, people live to a ripe old age. There are
no buildings which call for any particular comment, except,
perhaps, the Government Palace, which is an excellent
specimen of solid but unpretentious construction. The whole
population of Ciudad Victoria does not exceed 11,000, the
town being situated 449 metres above sea-level.

The Governor, Seflor Pedro Argiielles, is regarded as one
of the most progressive and energetic officials in the Mexican
Republic. Although he has never visited England, he is
intimately acquainted with English history, methods and
persons, and he both speaks and writes it perfectly. Imposing
in personality, he is a delightful talker and a great student.
His excellency's knowledge of European and American
matters generally is profound, and his local experience is
imparted in a singularly agreeable, unreserved and unosten-
tatious manner.

Before he became Governor of Tamaulipas, Senor Argiielles
was Chief of the Customs Department at Laredo, the border
town and port of entry between Mexico and the U.S.A. In
this capacity he made numerous friends among the various
travellers passing to and fro. The Governor was bom in
Matamoros some 60 years ago, and it may be truthfully
said that there is scarcely a year of his useful life which
he has not devoted in some way or other to the best interests
of his country. I have referred to the encouragement which
his government has afforded to all kinds of enterprises, and I
may perhaps draw particular attention to one project which
has long occupied his attention, and that is a new railroad to
be constructed from Ciudad Victoria, directly east, to Barra
de Soto la Marina, located on the Gulf coast. This would
open up an additionally rich section of the country, and
unquestionably prove of great value to the State. It was
Governor Argiielles who materially assisted the Mexican
National Railway in completing their Monterey branch to
Matamoros, while he is no less generous in his support of the

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GOVERNOR PEDRO ARGCELLES 183

Si LoniSy Brownsville and Mexico Railroad, from Matamoros
to Tampico, which, when completed, will add 800 miles of
railroad track to the State's equipment. Due greatly to
Governor Argiielles' influence, many thousand acres of rich
and fertile agricultural land are opening to-day to settlers,
and I know of no finer opportunity for sound land-investment
than in this particular State. Its virgin forests contain
ontoached fortunes in hard and soft woods, such as fir, poplar,
india-rubber, mahogany, white, red and yellow pine, ebony,
white and black oak, cedar, and an immense variety of fine
woods for cabinet work.

A gem among the many beauty spots of Mexico is Tama-
Bopo, situated upon the scenic Ihie belonging to the Central
Railway, between Tampico and San Luis Potosi. One passes
a succession of majestic ca&ons, the grandeur of which it
would be difficult to depict, let alone exaggerate. The pre-
cipitous sides are covered from the top to the bottom with the
densest and most verdant of undergrowths, packed so close
together that they offer an impassable barrier to all but the
smallest creatures. Even in the driest season these verdure-
clad heights are vivid in their greenness, and foaming cas-
cades, small but ever-fed, are to be seen splashing from rocky
ledge to ledge, and losing themselves in a multi-coloured
Bpray far down in the green depths below. Over and about
them flit countless gorgeous butterflies, some as large as
sparrows, and representing not alone every colour in the
rainbow, but every conceivable combination of colours, tints,
ftud shades.

The traveller who cares to pause on his way and descend
into the tempting, cool depths of the canon can readily do so
if he carefully follows one of the numerous trails which exist,
and which can be seen faintly winding up and down, and across
And across the mountain-sides. It is a long and rather a tire-
some descent, on account of the dense foliage on either side
and sometimes overgrowing the trail ; but what an abundant
leeward is that which greets one upon accomplishing it!
Many of the trails lead to dark and deep pools, and no doubt
have been made from time to time by animals coming down
to drink. What exquisite tints are those reflected in these
silent, shimmering waters — the blackest of greens, the lightest

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184 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

of emeralds ; the blue of the sky, the browns of the dying
leaves ; the reflection of some multi-coloured bird or butterfly
flying above ; the pale lemon hue of the half -crescent moon
just creeping across the sky. A perfect kaleidoscope of colour,
but all so soft, so ethereal, so transient, that it is like a dream
picture which the faintest ripple will dispel.

There is life down there in those depths, too ; for as one
looks a big brown fish bounds into the air, turns a somersault
and once more disappears. You catch just a glimpse of his
red eye and his silvery breast, of his shimmering armour and
forked tail After his plunge, the pool loses all its beautiful
colouring, and the mystic charm has gone.

The financial afiiairs of this State are worthy of some com-
ment. There is no longer any public debt, this having been
paid-off under Governor Arguelles' rule, while he has also
succeeded in bringing up the revenue of the State sufficiently
to meet all expenses provided for in the budget. The
Governor's knowledge of political economy, combined with
his shrewd business ability, are responsible for the highly
successful condition of affairs which the State now enjoys.

In my chapter on '* Sports " will be found full reference to
the tarpon-fishing for which the Port of Tampico is famous.

The middle territory on the west coast of Mexico, known
as Tepic, is but little noticed by the ordinary visitor to the
Bepublic, yet it contains some of its most interesting scenery.
Tepic was formerly considered the 7th Canton of the State
of Jalisco, and was created a Federal Territory on Decem-
ber 21st, 1884. Durango and Binaloa bound it on the
north and north-west, Jalisco being on the east and south,
and the Pacific Ocean on the west. The extensive range of
mountains known as the Sierra de Alica and the Sierra del
Nayarit traverse it from end to end, sloping down to the very
edge of the coast. Several fine but unnavigable rivers course
through its tropical valleys, such as the Bio Grande de
Santiago, which also empties itself into the Pacific Ocean.
Mountain and plateau, hill and valley, forest and stream,
are the main characteristics of Tepic's unsurpassed scenery,
while a quite tolerable climate, varying from the temperate

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TERRITORY OF TEPIO 186

on the table-lands to the torrid on the ooasti offers indaoe-
ments to settlers, who, however, must be prepared for every
variety of insect life. The few exploring parties which have
set out with the idea of testing the mineral resources of the
territory have been highly encouraged by what they have
found. Some of the most promising silver deposits have
been discovered in the mountains, and Indians tell stories of
great riches having been discovered and secured there in
tunsB past. The mining region of Topic will be found more
fully referred to in another chapter.

The main industry of the Territory is agriculture, and
the productions under this head are both numerous and
abundant, resembling in variety and number the productions
of other great agricultural States, such as Oaxaca, Fu^bla and
Veracruz. In the valleys, of which, as I have said, there
are several, no more fertile and productive soil is found than
that of Jala, and where, I am told, the planting of one bushel of
com yields five hundredfold. Thousands of acres of rich land
are to be met with, the crops embracing cereals, cotton, tobacco,
sugar-cane, cofifee, beans and rice, while wheat and other
cereals grow especially well in the districts of Ahuacatl&n and
Topic ; rice flourishing at Compostela, Topic and AhuacatUn,
and San Bias ; cotton in Acapon^ta and Santiago Izcuintle ;
while cofifee, tobacco and sugar grow to perfection all over
the Territory.

Official authority says that there are some 50 dififerent
plantations, out of which 7 are devoted exclusively to the
cultivation of cotton, 4 to cofifee, 22 to sugar-cane, and the
balance to wheat, barley and other grains, as well as to cattle-
nosing. In regard to cofifee grown in the Territory of Topic,
New York experts have pronounced it to be of the very finest,
while some samples sent to Hamburg were valued at a price
only exceeded by that of the best Brazilian cofifee, and higher
than that of the famous Cordoba growth and the berry from the
eastern coast of Mexico. It is in Compostela that the finest
cofifee is now grown, the estates being in a zone parallel to
the ocean, and at an elevation of 800 metres.

Central America takes practically all the tobacco which is
grown in this Territory, somewhere about 1,000,000 kilo-
grams annually. There are many thousands of rubber-trees

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136 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

which grow wild in Tepic, and one would imagine that it offers
suitable opportunity for rubber plantations, but none as yet
have been undertaken. Cotton, again, of an excellent quality
flourishes on the warm lowlands, and yields so abundantly
that one year's crop, it is claimed, repays the loss of five
years' constant failure. As yet, however, tobacco, in spite of
the soil's great natural richness, must be considered as part
of the undeveloped resources of the Territory, but as offering
almost unrivalled opportunities for the investment of foreign
capital. What capital is found in the various factories which
exist is purely local. There are several woollen factories,
which turn out a good quality of blanket, but the methods in
vogue are primitive, as is life generally in Tepic.

One of its greatest drawbacks is the absence of railways,
there not being a single line of track in the Territory. San
Bias is the principal Port, and it has a considerable maritime
business with the whole stretch of Pacific coast of both North
and South America. Several lines of steamships and sailing
vessels touch at this port annually, while the coast-wise trade
is of great importance and continually increasing, San Bias
being recognised as a good distributing and commercial
centre. The wagon-road leading from the Port to the capital,
Tepic, on to AhuacatUn and Ixtlan and proceeding thence to
Guadalajara, in the neighbouring State of Jalisco, is main-
tained ia a fairly good condition ; but the other highways are
not at all good, the majority of them being little better than
mountain trails. I may mention that a railway is proposed
from Tepic to San Bias.

The entire population of the Territory in 1895 was 148,806,
while, in 1904, it had only increased to 150,098. As the total
area of the Territory is 28,871 square kilometres, it will be
seen that the proportion of inhabitants is 5.29 per square
kilometre, which, although low, is somewhat better than
Campeche with its 1.84, or Coahuila with 1.79, or Chihuahua
with its 1.40.

During the past few months the City of Tepic has been
fortunate enough to witness the installation of an electric
light and power plant which furnishes motive power to a large
number of industries. It is owned by one individual, Se&or

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DAMAGE BY FLOOD 187

A. Agnirre, one of its most prominent citizens. Seven hun-
dred kilowatts of power are generated, bat it is intended very
shortly to increase these to over 1,000.

Last year a serious disaster overtook the Territory of Tepio
in the form of a flood by which many hundreds of thousands
of dollars' worth of damage was done. The Federal Govern-
ment promptly came to the rescue of the sufferers, subscribing
the liberal sum of (10,000, which was considerably added to
by private charity.

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CHAPTER LI

State of Yeracbuz : Spanish invasion — Agrioultoral value — Cattle-raising
— Mining conditions — Industries and trade — ^American capital invested
— City of Jalapa — Interesting streets and buildings — Freedom of Vera-
cruz City from fevers — Port of Veracruz — Great improvements —
John Hawkins and the Governor — Modem City of Veracruz — Some
new buildings — Tramway service — Pavements — (Government build-
ings — Educational advantages — Gbvemor Dehesa and education —
New Hall of Justice — Scenic surroundings — A remarkable waterfall —
Orizaba — ^Hotel accommodation — Notable factories.

EvBB since the Spaniards came to Mexico, Veracruz has been
regarded as the principal State next to that containing the
Capital ; and although to-day it possesses rivals in regard to
its port facilities, it still remains one of the most prominent
departments of the Republic. In regard to actual size it
compares unfavourably with many of the other States ; but,
on the other hand, its population is largely in excess of those
parts of the Republic which are equal to or larger than it in
size. Occupying its 76,868 square kilometres there are to-day
nearly 1,000,000 inhabitants, which give it a proportion of
nearly 18 to the square kilometre.

The State occupies a narrow strip of land, which rises
gradually from the long, low coast-line to the crest of the
Sierra Madre mountains, and it may be regarded as one of
the most picturesque and productive regions of the Union. It
claims two famous volcanoes, Orizaba and Gitatepetl, while
its mountain ranges include the famous Maltrata, the
Aloucingo, Oxocupan and Zongolica. In among these majestic
mountains are found some of the most fertile valleys in the
world. It is not difficult to understand how the reputed rich-
ness of Veracruz sent home to Spain attracted hundreds of
greedy adventurers in the early days of the Spanish conquest,

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VERACRUZ AGRICULTURE 139

for it is veritably a land of milk and honey, at least in oat-
ward appearance.

Agrioulture is carried on to advantage, and there are to-day
some 750 plantations, many of which are doing extremely
well. Of these, 28 are given ap to cotton, 98 to coffee, 106 to
sugar-cane, 189 to cereals, 8 to fruit, 46 to tobacco, 8 to
woods, and 279 to ranches. Among these stock-raising takes
first rank in actual annual returns, after which come cereals
and then sugar-cane products. The value of the cattle raised
and sold in the State of Veracruz cannot be far less than
$25,000,000 Mex. (^2,600,000) per annum. For here is
situated the great Huatusco Potosina, a great cattle-raising
region, consisting of a succession of rich valleys separated
from one another by verdure-covered terraces or hills, increas-
ing in height as they recede to the westward. This slope,
with its numerous smaller valleys, receives the moisture of
the breezes from the Gulf in the form of rain during the
summer months, and in dew during those of autumn and
winter, rendering them practically free from frost, drought,
or excessive heat. Stockmen declare that this natural pas-
turage land is as fine as any in the world, and pasturage
may be depended on all the year round, especially the
South American and African grasses. Para and guinea, de-
veloping and flourishing remarkably well here. Some 400
American Colonists, from Texas, have recently settled in the
State of Veracruz, and intend to go in extensively for cotton
planting near Perez, having purchased several thousands of
acres of land in that district.

The present condition of mining in Veracruz may be
regarded as embryotic, although several rich mines are in-
cluded within the borders. The principal minerals are gold,
silver, lead, iron, mercury, copper, coal, petroleum and
asphalt, while both marble and precious stones, such as opals,
agate, lapis-lazuli and amethysts, are found. The number of
xuining claims registered does not at present exceed 60, cover-
ing about 700 hectares, and out of the 4 or 5 mines in
operation the total output does not exceed $50,000.

Possessing, as it does, the most important port in Mexico,
although that of Tampico now runs it very closely, it is only
natural that the trade returns of Veracruz should be very

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140 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

large. Since the important harboar-works which have been
undertaken and completed at Veracruz, the traffic to and
from this port has greatly increased, and on several occasions
a glut of imports has resulted in a heavy congestion. As an
instance of the supremacy still claimed by Veracruz as a
Port of entry, I may point to the figures of duties received
in the month of March last (an average month), when out of
a total of $4,668,917 Veracruz received $1,617,918 and Tam-
pico took $896,918. Veracruz may be regarded as the dis-
tributing point of merchandise from and to all parts of the
Republic, and the most rapid communication by rail and
water with the interior is in operation. While this has
proved an excellent thing for the shippers, it has meant a
great deal of injury to the local merchants, who, instead of
now supplying various parts of the country, as they did
formerly, find that their trade is limited to strictly local
requirements.

The industries of the State are many, possessing as it does
several cotton, woollen, saw and paper mills, as well as
factories for chocolate, wax-matches, soap, candles and cigars,
in addition to several foundries. Petroleum-refining has also
of late been introduced, an American company importing
crude petroleum, and refining, as well as manufacturing,
nearly all products of that article. There are a number of
cigar-manufactories which seem to do a thriving trade, ex-
porting their goods to all parts of the world. In the mean-
time, I understand that State concessions have been granted
to several American capitalists, who propose erecting refriger-
ating, packing and tanning plants, with which they expect to
do a prosperous business.

The sugar industry of the State is practically stationary,
although its manufacture promises to assume large propor-
tions as soon as further capital is introduced, and new
machinery installed. As it is, many plantation companies
are working with antiquated machinery, provided by foreign
capital, mainly American; but others are planting wide
acreages of sugar-cane and importing modem machinery for
both sugar-making and distilling purposes. A year or two
ago shipments aggregating 16,600,000 lbs. of sugar were
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CITY OP VERACRUZ 141

England, the U.S.A. taking but 1,000 tons. Veracruz in
other directions, however, does more business with the U.S. A.
than with any other country, except in regard to its retail
lines of commerce. American enterprise and American
capital have wrought a great change in the sleepy old city
of Veracruz, and no doubt both are destined to effect an even
greater alteration ere long. It must be admitted that the Port
stands in need of such impetus, for while, as I have pointed
out, its foreign import and export trade is of importance, the
City itself remains almost exactly as it did in the Spanish
days. There is not a single hotel in the City which can be
caUed first-class; while it is only in the past few months
that the authorities have undertaken the long-needed paving
of the streets, substituting asphalt for the worn-out cobbles,
which filled, and still fill, some of its principal thoroughfares.
Undoubtedly Veracruz might be made an agreeable seaside
resort for a portion of the year, when the " Northers " do not
blow, being but 12 hours from Mexico City and reached by
night-journey on the Mexican Railway, which provides first-
class sleeping accommodation, and lands its passengers at
either end of the journey in excellent scheduled time. Much,
however, remains to be effected before Veracruz can be an
agreeable place of residence.

The capital of the State is Jalapa, the seat of local govern-
ment, and a very much more charming and interesting place
in which to reside. Jalapa is essentially ** old Mexico," and
its ancient structures have undergone little or no modernising.
It was a place of importance when Cortes landed, although it
was then but an Indian town ; but it was on the main road
that led from the coast to the capital, and the place still bears
impress of the numerous Spanish hidalgos who permanently
resided there. Apart from the charm of the city itself, the
surrounding scenery is unsurpassed in its grandeur.

Jalapa was not always the capital of Veracruz. The city
of that name was formerly the capital, and remained so until
February 1824, when the first State Congress assembled at
Jalapa, which thus virtually became the capital. In 1882 the
seat of government was again transferred to Veracruz, and
remained there until 1884; but the next Congress met at
Jalapa in 1885, and declared that city the residence of the

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142 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

Gtovemmenty which it oontinued to be antil 1841, when tha
Assembly was dissolved and succeeded by another that mefe
at Veracruz. The Assembly of 1848 sat there also, but in.
1845 the Constitutional Assembly convened at Jalapa, and
the seat of government remained in that city until 1868,
when, under the dictatorship of (General Santa Ana, all the
State offices of the Government were removed to Veracruz.
In 1861 Legislature decreed Jalapa to be the seat of govern-
ment during the foreign war that threatened the country, and
after the Republic was resumed in 1867 the Government was
sent back to Veracruz, which once more declared it to be the
official capital. In 1871 Orizaba became the seat of govern-
ment for a short period, but it was restored to Jalapa the same
year, which remained the official capital. In 1877 it again
went to Veracruz, and for the following 8 years sat at Orizaba.
In January 1885 the Constitutional Government was once
decreed to sit at Jalapa, and it has remained there since.

At one time Veracruz bore an evil name on account of the
ravages of yellow-jack, and it will probably be very difficult
to convince some people to-day that it is practically free from
that scourge. Nevertheless, while it must be said that the
disease has not been completely stamped-out, there occur now
but few cases in Veracruz compared with other parts of
Mexico. The population of the city is between 88,000 and
40,000, and according to the latest census, the death-rate is
considerably less than that of the City of Mexico, which is
situated, as before mentioned, 7,850 fi above the sea. As a
matter of fact, it seems that more people die of tuberculosis
in Veracruz than of yellow-fever. In 1905 the total death-
rate was 42 per 1,000, mounting to 60 in the summer months
and dropping to 29 in the winter. Of these deaths 50 per
cent, occurred among children under one year of age, 25 per
cent, were victims of tuberculosis and 80 per cent, of
diarrhoeal diseases. It seems remarkable that the term
*' yellow-fever " should inspire so much terror in some minds,
while tuberculosis, or, to give it its better-known name,
consumption, awakens but a passing thought. Tellow-fever
is now so thoroughly understood by medical men, that whereas
70 per cent, represented the proportion of deaths 10 or 15
years ago, this has now been reduced to something like 10 or

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DRAKE AND HAWKINS 148

15 per cent, so that the terrors of the scourge, however well
foanded formerly, now seem to be so no longer, and Veracruz
has been labouring under an tmjastifiable suspicion for some
years, and one which it is as well to remove.

Of Veracruz and its fascinating history one could readily
compile a volume, and then scarcely do it full justice. Usually
this is the first place in Mexico seen by the large body of
tourists who travel to the Republic by sea, since all the
Hamburg- American, British and American steamers call at
Veracruz, which affords a charming preliminary glimpse of
tropical Mexico. It was here on a Good Friday, in the year
1519, that the venturesome Cortes landed, and in consideration
of its reputation as a place of great wealth it was piously
named Villa Bica de la Santa Veracruz. The Spaniards
vere always fond of long and religious names, and rarely
abbreviated them either in their writings or their conversa-

It was here that the great Francis Drake took his first
lesson in piracy, and it would be almost impossible to
enumerate the different times in its stormy career that this
ancient port and town have been bombarded, besieged and
Backed. Upon four different occasions the site of the city
was changed, and it was only in 1600 that the location was
definitely decided by the King of Spain himself, which is
retained to this day. Veracruz was well enough known to
John Hawkins, one of Queen Elizabeth's loyal but distinctly
dishonest sea-rovers, and it was this great mariner who
captured and took possession of the Island of Sacrifices (Isla
de Bacrificios) and the then small fort of San Juan de Ulia.
Hawkins is credited with being a great rogue, but a very
polite one. After he had captured Veracruz he called in great
state upon the Spanish Governor, and apologised for the stem
necessity of war and its unpleasant consequences, observing
that his possession of the city " was a mere matter of form."
Anyhow, he seems to have deeply and most favourably im-
pressed the Spanish Governor, who has left upon record his
opinion of John Hawkins, whom he describes as '' muy gran
Boldado y marinero y en su proceder muy hidalgo/'

Modem Veracruz is picturesque in some parts, but squalid
ui others. Besides the intense heat which prevails there

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144 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

almost the entire year round, the blowing of the ** Northers/'
or strong North winds, makes residence there very trying
daring the winter months. These winds come ap with great
suddenness, but timely warning is given by the meteorological
department, so that shipping can take the necessary precau-
tions. Sometimes, however, the warnings are not given
sufficiently soon, or they are disregarded, with the conse-
quence that a considerable number of boating accidents take
place every year, and many individuals are drowned.

The building of a port and docks at Veracruz formed one of
the earliest undertakings entered upon by the Mexican Qovem-
ment under the presidency of General Forfirio Diaz. It was in
May 1661 that the contract was entered into with the city
authorities of Veracruz, the contract being awarded to a
French firm of engineers. Five years afterwards the contract
was cancelled, little or nothing having been done in the
meantime. Another contract was made with a Mr. Cerdan,
but again it fell through. Then it was that the firm of
British engineers, S. Pearson and Son, Limited, came upon
the scene, they having already shown their worth by the
construction of the great drainage works of the City of
Mexico, and which have effected such a drastic change for the
better in that delightful Capital.

Messrs. Pearson took over the works at Veracruz on
April 26th, 1896, and from that day really commenced the
regeneration and rehabilitation of that port. It was on March
16th, 1902, that the Fort and Harbour works were completed.

The same firm of eminent engineers are responsible for
the excellent water system of the city, the per capita supply
being 225 litres per day for a population of 85,000, the total
cost of the installation having been $2,250,495 (Mex.). The
sewerage system is no less complete, and conforms to what
is known as the separate water-carriage process, and includes
a main-sewer, secondary sewers, and all necessary subsidiary
sewers, aggregating about 55 kilometres in length. The instal-
lation of this system cost a further sum of $1,718,998 (Mex.).

The City of Jalapa is built principally of stone and cement ;
its streets are exceptionally wide and remarkably clean,
although somewhat hilly on account of the city's location.

This year has been opened the magnificent new building.

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CITY OF JALAPA 145

adjoining the Government Palace, devoted to the administra-
tion of the law. The Palace of Justice, which has occupied
several years building, is a stately but not very spacious
edifice, the Courts being rather small, from a European
standpoint, but admirably-planned from an acoustic con-
sideration. The entrance hall is of the finest white marble,
all the doors and woodwork are of mahogany, and the fitments
of beaten copper and bronze. Light and air have been well
provided for, while the various offices and judges' apartments
are especially well fitted. Electric illumination is everywhere
installed, and the whole building is a model of good taste and
refined elegance.

Railway communication throughout the State of Veracruz
is exceptionally good, for not only is the State admirably
served by the Mexican Railway, but the Interoceanic, the
Veracruz and Alvarado, the Central (in the north), the
Cordoba and Tuxtepec, and the Veracruz and Pacific all
contribute to its means of internal and external communica-
tion.

At Jalapa, capital of the State of Veracruz, is located the
handsome and commodious Escuela Preparatorio, established
in 1843 by Antonio Maria de Rivera, and rebuilt by the State
Government in 1904. It is a luxurious and yet a thoroughly
practicable educational establishment, which, for complete-
ness of detail and excellence of arrangement, has no superior
and very few equals in the Republic. There is at present an
average attendance of 100 pupils, but the building has ample
accommodation for twice that number. As in the case of all
Governmental educational establishments, everything — in-
struction, uniforms, books, stationery, etc., etc. — is provided
free. The school hours are from 8 to 12 a.m. and from 8 to 6
p.m. There are no Sunday classes and no religious instruction.
A notable feature of this school is the library, which contains
some thousands of well-bound books, among them being a
representative collection of English works, such as those of
Smollett, Fielding, Shakespeare and Thackeray. I understand
that these works are among the more largely read ; but some
bound volumes of English illustrated newspapers are also
in demand. The anatomy, chemistry and natural history
departments are filled with every description of modem

VOL. n. 81

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146 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

apparatus and models, entailing a considerable outlay, and it
is satisfactory to add that all these studies are pursued with
avidity and interest by the majority of the pupils, who display
remarkable aptitude in their assimilation of the technical
details. The State of Veracruz has several other notable
scholastic establishments, mainly the result of the splendid
educational enterprise of the present Governor, Senor Don
Teodoro A. Dehesa, who has expended large sums of money
out of his own pocket in the furtherance of the cause of
education, which he has so much at heart. Last year the
State Government issued a notable map of Veracruz, which
cost no less a sum than $80,000 (say, £8,000).

Apart from its importance as an industrial centre, the other
most prominent town in the State of Veracruz, namely
Orizaba, is a singularly-attractive resort for jaded City resi-
dents and tourists. It existed long before Cortes came (in
1683), who liked it so much that he remained there for a
considerable time. The town is on the edge of the hot country,
but not quite in it. Its situation in a small valley entirely sur-
rounded by lofty mountains is charming, and one can well
understand the infatuation which it had for Maximilian. It is
only 4,(XX) ft. above the sea-level, and thus offers a complete
change of atmosphere to that of Mexico City, which is 8,349 ft.
higher. The surroundings are semi-tropical, and refreshingly
green all the year round. I have seen the place both in the
winter and in the summer months, and have noticed scarcely
any difference either in the colour of the verdure-clad moun-
tains and environing coffee-plantations, banana-groves or
sugar-fields, or in the temperature. Some of the most mag-
nificent scenery in Mexico may be seen within a quarter-of-an-
hour's drive from the town of Orizaba. I refer to the beautiful
falls of the Bio Blanco, which, although utilised for generating
the electric light and power works of the town, retain their
original charm, which, one would say, simply defy all-destroy-
ing-man to deface or alter. The Escamela waterfall, although
neither as large nor as impressive as some others found in
different parts of the country, is both romantic and attractive.
A short line of railway some 20 miles long is to be built out
of Orizaba to a place called La Forla, the idea being to work
the large timber forests which lie adjacent. The undertaking

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ORIZABA 147

is an American one, and is organised by capitalists of Guthrie
Oklahama.

The hotel accommodation offered in the City is as yet some-
what primitive^ but there is one fairly-comfortable hostelry^
kept by a Frenchman named Leroy, and which is well-
furnished and offers a tolerable cuisine. The situation on the
main street, however, is against it, on account of the noise of
traffic and the somewhat defective drainage.

81—2

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CHAPTER LII

Statb of YugatIn : Great heneqn^n industry — Unsubdued Indians —
Lack of rivers — Mineral springs — Agriculture — Sugar — City of
M^rida — Trade^Ezports and imports — Financial depression — Fall
in prices of henequ^n and increase of local taxation. Statb of
Zaoateoas : Topographical situation — Bivers — State taxation — Cereal
cultivation — Commercial importance— Mineral resources — Governor
Eduardo Pankhurst — Anti-liquor legislation — State pawnshops —
Education — City of Zacatecas — Scenic surroundings — Railway
facilities — Buildings and cathedral — Historical associations.

Of late years the State of Yucat&n has become one of the
best-known of the Mexican provinces on account of its great
production of the henequ^n plant, by means of which it has
attained the distinction of being recognised as the greatest
henequ6n-producing region in the world. The total area of
this State is 91,201 square kilometres, and its boundaries are
the Gulf of Mexico on the north, the Garribean Sea on the
east, British Honduras and Guatemala on the south, and the
State of Oampeche on the west. The vast peninsula known as
Tucat&n is an immense plain, starting from the coast-line and
rising gradually towards the interior to the height of between
160 and 180 feet. Bare towards the coast, the soil gradually
becomes more fertile towards the north-east, while the south-
east section is about as rich as one can find anywhere,
abounding in virgin forests, filled with dye and cabinet woods,
possessing as well some fine open stretches of land, eminently
suitable for the cultivation of practically all vegetable species.
One great drawback to this portion of the country, however,
is the numerous tribes of still unsubdued Indians, known as
^'Taquis," and who are as savage as they are untractable.
For years the Mexican Government has been endeavouring to
suppress these tribes, but it has only partially succeeded, the
country being an exceptionally easy one for them in which to

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CITY OP M^RIDA 149

hide themselves, and just as difficult for mounted troops to
pursue them.

Although there is any amount of wild, rugged mountain
scenery to be met with in Yucat&n, the State is practically
without rivers. The Lagartos, which is called a " river," is
neither more nor less than a shallow arm of the sea, and is
a curious mixture of both salt and fresh water. At no greater
distance than 800 feet inland pools of fresh water spring up
among the salt, but without intermingling with them, and
these are called ''Bocas de Gonil," which Yon Humboldt
declared are due to the immense hydrostatic pressure from
the interior of the earth. Visitors to the Windward coast
may have met with some such springs there. Yucat^ has
also a large number of other mineral springs, which are
variously known under the name of aguadasy sartenejas and
cenotes, but all alike are formed of deposits of rain-water
among the rocks or in reservoir-pools and cavernous cups, in
which the water has collected.

Besides henequto, the resources of the State include a
moderate amount of agriculture, such as sugar-cane planta-
tions, tobacco and chicle gum. There are altogether in
Yucat&n nearly 900 plantations divided up into henequ6n, of
which there are 850; cattle-ranches 227; cereals 160, and
sugar-cane 95.

The City of M^rida is one of the handsomest and most
commodious in the whole of Mexico, and contains buildings,
parks and public thoroughfares which can only be matched
by that of Mexico City. It is, moreover, an extremely agree-
able city in which to reside, on account of its up-to-date
character, and a very pleasant climate which prevails nearly
all the year round. There are some 62,000 people to-day
living in M^rida, and among them it would be difficult to find
any really poor. In regard to railways, there are several
lines, all exceptionally well-conducted. There are the M^rida
and Gampeche, 178 kilometres long; M^rida and Peto,
127 kilometres; M^rida and Yalladolid, with a branch to
Progr^so, 78 kilometres ; the Izamel 66 kilometres ; and the
M6rida and Progr6so, 86 kilometres. Besides an excellent
railway service, the Peninsula of Yucat&n has a first-class
maritime communication, which is carried on by means of

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150 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

several American and Cuban Companies, while the Imperial
German Mail, the Harrison line, the West India and Pacific
Steamship Co., the Spanish Transatlantic Line, the Prince
Line, the Johnston Line, and 8 Mexican Imes call at Pro-
gr^so. This latter is the principal port of the State, and
ranks third in the Bepnblic for its import trade. The
number of vessels calling here annually amount to between
690 and 600, of which nearly 400 are steamers. The Mexican
Government are contemplating expending a considerable sum
of money upon the Port of Progr^so in order to render it
safe during bad weather, which it is far from being at
present.

The United Railways Co. of Yucat^, which already owns
the lines in that peninsula, recently acquired at a cost of
$2,500,000 complete control of wharfage and bodega facilities
at the Port of Progr^so, by the purchase of the holding of
La Antigua Agencia Comercio, and by which means the
Company removes its only competitors in the wharfage and
storage business. The United Railways of Yucat&n is a
purely Mexican undertaking, initiated by Mexican capital, and
its 588 kilometres of railroad have been built entirely by
Mexican engineers, and are operated solely by Mexicans.
I understand that an American organisation recently offered
$20,000,000 for the property and rights of the Railway
Company, and that this was refused.

Trade in Yucat^ is advancing by leaps and bounds, and
since the official visit of President Diaz in February 1906, the
attention not only of United States capitalists but those of
the whole world has been drawn to this Province. The
salvation of Yucat&n has been the henequ6n-plant, which has
helped to raise many of its citizens from poverty to affluence.
A decade ago, the plantation-owners were nearly all in debt,
with very little prospect of ever paying what they owed^
To-day, they have not only discharged all their obligations,
but have abundant cash in hand, and many rank as very
wealthy.

On the list of Mexican Gulf ports, Progr6so now stands high
as regards export values. To the United States it sends
millions of dollars' worth of raw materials every year, such
as hemp, gums and hides, etc., and annually it receives goods

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YUCATAN'S TRADE 151

to the amount of $1,500,000 (U.S. Cy.) Tucat&n is now
exporting between 600,000 and 700,000 bales of sisal hemp,
having a value of about $50,000,000 (Mex.) ; 96 per cent, of the
raw product goes to the United States, through the ports of
New York, Boston, Mobile and New Orleans. The manufac-
tured article in the form of cordage, bagging and binder-twine
is also exported, but a good deal of the cordage and bagging
also go up the coast to supply the demands of domestic
commerce.

On the other hand, Yucat^ imports from the United States
a fair amount of dry goods, although it is impossible to
predict any advance, but rather a falling-off, in the value of
this trade during the next few years. This may be accounted
for by the fact that Mexico has begun to manufacture cotton
goods of her own, mills in the Bepublic being continually
increased both in number and size. Pu6bla and Orizaba, for
instance, supply a great deal of the home demand, and my
opinion is that the dry-goods trade with the United States,
especially the white and unbleached cottons, will gradually
die out.

There are several evidences of American enterprise to be
found in Yucat&n. Besides the Yucatto Gas and Electric
Company, which is an American undertaking, backed by
$200,000 (U.S. Cy.)^ and which appears to be doing a good
business, there is an Artesian Well Company, also with a
large amount of capital, and an enterprising American as its
working head. A large number of planters and cattlemen
owning property in the State are from the United States, the
estimated value of their holdings being $2,000,000 (U.S. Cy.).
The largest of these ranches is the property of the San Pu^bla
Lumber and Land Co., which owns a tract of land containing
50 square leagues.

The great prosperity of Yucat&n received a temporary check
in the spring of this year. In the month of May last the long-
continued drought, losses by fire, and stringent local money-
market combined to bring about a large number of failures,
several prominent firms, both in Progr6so and M6rida,
collapsing. The low price of henequ6n was mainly respon-
sible for this state of affairs, the price having consistently
dwindled since 1904, in which year it stood at 88.27 cents

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152 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

per kilo, falling to 80.49 eents in 1905, and to 27.78 in
1906. Considering that henequto is the main source of
the State's wealth, the heavy drop in prices was of serious
import.

No State in the Bepublic has in its time attracted more
general attention than that of Zacatecas, which, with a total
area of 68,886 square kilometres, has a population of not far
short of half a milUon, which gives it an average of 7.29
inhabitants per square kilometre. It has as neighbours
Coahuila on the north, San Luis Potosi on the east, Jalisco
and Aguascalientes on the south, and Durango on the west.
The situation is on the high central plateau of the Bepublic,
with considerably more mountain area than valley, and
thereby rendered exceedingly difficult for transportation.
Were it not for its mineral resources, of which I speak more
fuUy elsewhere, Zacatecas would not be a particularly
prosperous State, since agriculture is carried on with difficulty
on account of the unfavourable topographical conditions of
the country. The mountains are remarkable for their almost
unbroken bareness and sterility, and the scenery round about
is unattractive in the extrema There are at least two
important rivers, the Juchipila and the Nieves, which are
respectively 280 and 225 kilometres in length, but while there
are several other rivers of smaller dimensions, there are no
lakes. As to the climate, the State possesses three different
regions, the first between 1,660 to 2,000 feet above sea-level ;
the second from 2,000 to 2,400, and the third from 2,400 to
8,000. There is an abundant rainfall throughout the State,
and the winds which usually blow from the west are often
very cold.

The principal sources of the State's revenues are derived
from taxes on country and city property, business houses and
mines, the balance proceeding from sources of less importance,
such as telegraphic and telephonic services, both of which
belong to the State. The value of rural property is estimated
at $18,718,268, consisting of 826 estates aggregating a total
value of $18,808,802, and containing 6,448,968 hectares. Of
the estates there are some exceeding a value of $6,000 each ;
there are others also which contribute substantially to the

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ZACATECAS 163

State's resonrces, consistiiig of some 950 properties, each of
a value of $1,000 or less, and aggregating a total valae of
$1,862,604. These comprise an acreage of 890,192 hectares.

The cultivation of cereals is carried on where the generally
unkindly nature of the soil will permit. The cereals include
com, beans and wheat. Several haciendados go in extensively
lor cattle-raising, paying particular attention to the improve-
ment of their herds and crossing them with foreign breeds.
Horses, mules, sheep and goats are also reared, with more or
less success, while in Juchipila, named after the river which
courses through it, the principal product is sugar-cane, which
is converted into piloncillo and also alcohol, the latter being
one of the principal products in the district of Pinos, where
it is obtained by a system of evaporation from the maguey
plant. In the district of Mazapil several factories for the
manufacture of rubber from the guayule plant are under-
going construction, while some cotton, woollen and other
factories are already in existence.

Commercially speaking, Zacatecas is one of the more
important of the Republic's centres, the annual trade being
estimated at between $40,000,000 and $48,000,000, of which
imports represent $16,000,000, exports $19,000,000, and local
trade the balance.

Two principal factors in the government of this State under
Senor Eduardo Pankhurst are education and an unrelenting
campaign against the use of alcohol. In regard to the first,
an admirable system has been introduced, the schools not
only being well attended, but presided over by a body of
exceptionally competent instructors. A sound professional
instruction is given, which includes courses for lawyers,
physicians and engineers. Scholarships are established, and
a limited number of pupils are sent to Mexico City to study
for professional careers. The State Government is very
anxious that the remotest and smallest places in the territory
shall derive benefit, and to that end the Legislature has
increased the amount of the salaries of teachers, and created
special awards for merit and industry among them. I visited
a great many of the educational establishments in Zacatecas,
and found these without exception well conducted and well
attended.

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164 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTUBY

Among the principal educational institutions are the
Institute of Science for preparatory courses, two normal
schools for professors of both sexes, 861 primary schools, with
857 professors and 217 assistants, while the average school
attendance is 18,424 pupils. The amount expended upon
public instruction amounts to 84.16 of the State's annual
expenses, while only 18.84 is devoted to public safety (police).

Although, as I have said, one of the principal resources of
the State has been and still is the alcohol which is made
there, the Governor is against any increase in the use of it
among his own people. He has introduced both repressive
and preventive methods against inebriety, and the authorities
punish severely those who indulge too freely in the use of
liquor, while steps have been taken of no less stringent a
nature with regard to schools and colleges.

Governor Pankhurst has joined hands with the former
Governor of Chihuahua, Senor Creel, now ambassador to the
U.S. A., in his campaign for the suppression of pulque-drink-
ing, and he has met with a great deal of success, although his
efforts are by no means exhausted or abated as yet. In order
to facilitate the abandonment of pulque-drinking as far as
possible, a completely new water-system has been introduced
of late into the City of Zacatecas, which had hitherto proved
a very difficult problem to solve owing to the great altitude of
the city, which lies 8^00 ft. above sea-level. Under the
same enterprising government, preliminary steps have also
been taken to introduce an electric system, which will be
available, no doubt, for the mining industry of the State
should it require it. The industry has met with many draw-
backs and disappointments during the past ten years or so,
but the Governor firmly believes that a few years hence it
will again revive, and the State's value as a mineral-producer
be amply demonstrated.

The Governor of Zacatecas, Lie. Eduardo Pankhurst, is the
son of an Englishman long settled in Mexico, and an advocate
of some eminence. His main interests have been and are
centred in education, and by this means he hopes to raise his
State to a much higher position in the Bepublic. Under his
administration it has already advanced considerably.

Among other innovations to which reference may be made

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Senora de la Asuncion.

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See^. 96.1

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CITY OP ZACATECAS 155

are the establishment by the State of 20 pawnshops with a
capital of $128,000, which are producing gross receipts of
$80,000. At these establishments the poor people of Zaea-
teoas can obtain grants of money on goods at a very low rate
of interest, and they can redeem them without any of the
difficulties or exactions met with in similar establishments in
other countries

The City property represents a value of $10,424,244, and
of this sum public State buildings represent $962,744, the
balance being private properties which yield the owners an
annual rental of 10 per cent.

The City of Zacatecas is approached from the valleys by a
series of long and sinuous climbs, the track winding tortuously
around and around a lofty hill until its summit is finally reached
at a height of 8,000 ft., and the first glance of the picturesque
city that one obtains is in the form of a huge tower-like
chimney, belonging to the local smelter. The train then
descends by its own weight into the valley in which the City
of Zacatecas is built. At present it is devoid of much comfort,
the hotels being of a very poor nature, and the methods of
locomotion, by means of the antiquated horse-car, both slow
and inadequate. The chief charm of the city undoubtedly lies
in its ancient buildings, especially the Cathedral, which is one
of the finest in Mexico. In fact, the city contains an enormous
number of churches, most of which are worth close inspection,
and many among them possessing associations of great
historical value. The city has been attacked and pillaged
on more than one occasion, and when the brutal Dictator
Greneral Santa Ana took it against the brave but fruitless
defence of Governor Don Francisco Garcia in 1885, the
inhabitants were inhumanly butchered, and a greal deal of
wilful damage was done to the public buildings, the Cathedral
not excepted.

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CHAPTEE LIII

Agiicnltnre — Primitive methods — Goyenunent snpporlr— Praotical sugges-
tions— An example of profitable farming — Agricultural States— Their
chief products — Coffee-growing as an investment — Cost of planting
and profits made — A model Veracruz coffee plantation — Annual pro-
duction at Monte Blanco — President Diaz as a haciendado.

^'Blbsbbd be agriculture — if one does not have too much
of it/' declared Charles Dudley Warner ; and certainly the
Mexicans are not likely to sufer from a plethora in this
direction. It is unfortunate that agriculture, instead of being
the first and most remunerative industry of the Republic, has
hitherto taken second place to mining, a fact which is remark-
able, considering the marvellous fertility and productiveness
of a great portion of the soil. There are two causes which
account for this : first, the lack of labourers, secondly, the
almost childish persistency with which the Mexicans adhere
to primitive methods, while the lack of sufficient internal
communication has also played a part in the neglect of oppor-
tunity up to now. The mountainous and broken character of
the country has, to a great extent, proved an obstacle to rapid,
easy and economic transmission of produce, while it has also
hindered the permanent currents of traffic either by land or
by water, thus depriving the agriculturist of advantages of
natural irrigation in certain regions, which are, for this reason,
still arid and unprofitable.

The Government of Mexico has, nevertheless, shown a pro-
nounced and most commendable interest in improving the
agricultural conditions of the country, and during the whole
term of the Diaz regime special attention has been given by
the Department of Fomento to encourage this industry among
the people. It has sought at the expenditure of both time
and money to disseminate among the agricultural classes

166

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PBODUCTIVENESS OP SOIL 157

information tending to educate them, to teach them improved
and scientific methods of cultivation, irrigation, fertilisation
and drainage of the soil, and to call their attention to those
products which can be most advantageously cultivated in the
different zones of the Bepublic. Besides distributing large
quantities of seeds, shoots, and plants among them, the
Department issues a monthly bulletin of agriculture, which,
however, I fear is but Utile read or understood among the
farming classes. The results, therefore, have been far from
encouraging, and it is only the advent of the hustling American
with his improved machinery and his insistent manners which
can have any good effect upon the naturally unimproving
character of the peon.

In many parts of the Bepublic the land is being tilled
to-day as it was tilled 400 years ago ; and it is surprising to
observe how, in spite of these way-back methods, the soil
produces so abundantly, reminding one of Douglas Jerrold's
lines in the '' Land of Plenty " : " Earth is here so kind that
just tickle her with a hoe and she laughs with a harvest."

The highest authority upon farming in Mexico has assured
me that 50 acres devoted to general farming will keep a family
comfortably-off, if the land is cultivated as any practical
farmer cultivates it, putting in two crops of com and beans
each year reserving the garden-patch for immediate needs of
his family, and pasture sown for his animals, say to the
extent of 10 acres, leaving 40 acres to keep himself and two
men busy gleaning, plantuig, cultivating and harvesting prac-
tically all the year round. If the land be located near a
sugar-mill, 10 out of the 40 acres can be planted in cane
for general crop, and ought to produce 60 tons per acre, or a
total of 500 ions, which should be worth at the mill $9.00
(18s.) per ton. Deducting the expense of cultivating and
delivering, say |6 (12s.) per ton, there would be a nett return of
$1,500 (say £150), or an average profit of $150 (say £15) per
acre. The remaining land might be planted in cotton or
beans, both of which crops invariably command good prices.

The main products of agriculture in Mexico are coffee,
sugar, tobacco, cotton, com, maize, etc., concerning all of
which I propose to say a few words, regretting that the space
at my command precludes me from going more fully into

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158 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

details as to their respective cultivation and value, which
I should much have liked to be able to do.

Glancing rapidly through the facilities offered by the various
States, I may indicate that the States of Morales, San Luis
Fotosi and Veracruz afford excellent opportunites for the rais-
ing of coffee as well as fruits and vegetables, on account of
their mild climate, with an entire absence of frosts ; and in
these States can be cultivated to the highest perfection
oranges, lemons, pineapples, cocoa-nuts, bananas and tobacco.
The State of Pu^bla, being in a cold district, is suitable mainly
for the cultivation of apples, pecan, prunes, peaches and the
grape-vine ; but has suitable regions for oranges, lemons, pine-
apples and other classes of tropical products. Oaxaca, one of
the richest agricultural places in the Republic, with a vast
area of fertile land, a fine temperature and an abundance of
water, can grow anything ; while Guanajuato is also possessed
of valuable land suitable for agriculture, and which, but for
its great mining wealth, would probably have advanced to
the front ranks of Mexico's agricultural States. Quer^taro,
on account of its climate and excellent topographical situa-
tion, is very attractive for agricultural life. Jalisco, how-
ever, is the premier State for agriculturalists, its lands proving
suitable for practically every kind of product, while it pos-
sesses a Government which devotes a considerable amount
of attention to the cultivation of the soil.

Nuevo Leon has become more of a mining and manufactur-
ing State of late, although at one time it was a great agricul-
tural centre ; unfortunately, in conjunction with other frontier
States it is subject to severe droughts, and no satisfactory
system of irrigation has yet been instituted.

I have referred elsewhere to the splendid agricultural possi-
bilities of the State of Tamaulipas when more fully popu-
lated, while in the States of Mexico, Colima, Michoacan,
Mor6los, Guerrero, Tabasco, Veracruz and Tlaxcala, agriculture
may be pursued with almost certain encouraging results. It
is necessary to bear in mind, however, that the vast territory
of Mexico enjoys a variety of climate, which naturally controls
agricultural productions; and it must not be assumed that
every part of the Republic is suitable for tropical agriculture.

^VHiile it is quite possible to raise coffee, rubber, vanilla.

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LAND INVESTMENT 159

Bttgar, oranges, lemons and all tropical fruits on the same
farm in some districts, wheat, oats, barley, apples, peaches,
pears, and all northern fruits, if tried on the same ground,
are apt to prove failures. In some tropical regions of Mexico
an acre will produce $200, i.e. £20 nett, yearly, while in
others it will not yield a centavo. The selection of the
ground should be made with the utmost care, and only upon
the advice of experts and those who have resided for many
years in the country.

Particularly should intending settlers be warned from being
influenced by the alluring and deceptive land-sharks of whom
there has been produced an abundant and most dangerous
crop of late, and concerning whose methods it is necessary
to speak with great firmness and unequivocal denunciation.
Several of these individuals during the past few years have
been prosecuted, and at the present time there are at least
three serving long sentences in the State prisons of America.
Under normal circumstances there is no surer or safer
investment than coffee-growing in Mexico, and probably no
better time to undertake it than the present. The ruling
price of coffee to-day is higher than it has been for some
years, and the old sources of supply, such as Ceylon, Brazil,
Sumatra, Java, etc., are unable to keep up with the demand
which is increasing throughout the world. Whereas coffee-
lands may be found practically in all tropical countries, those
producing the best quality of berry are few ; but Mexico must
undoubtedly be reckoned among them. The berry which
comes from the State of Colima is considered the finest, and
has been preferred by experts to that of Brazil. Up till now,
Mexico has occupied the fourth place among the countries
exporting coffee to the U.S.A., which is her best market,
owing to the proximity of her territory and the special con-
ditions of transportation. But Mexican coffee is popular
elsewhere, as in Belgium, Germany, France and England,
and as a result coffee-raising, which had been somewhat
stagnant for many years, is now enjoying a revival, and quite
a large number of old-time planters are restocking their lands
with new coffee orchards.

Coffee is not indigenous to Mexico, it having originally
been brought from the West Indies in 1790, and it was not

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160 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

until 1818 that the plant was properly cultivated. To-day
good coffee is raised not only in Colima, as already mentioned,
but in Oaxaca, Chiapas, Guerrero, Jalisco, Mexico, Michoac^,
Mor^los, San Luis Potosi, Veracruz and Tabasco. The first
recorded exportation of coffee from Mexico to the U.S.A. was
in 1825, when it sent there 216,850 lbs., valued at $28,482
(gold), or at the rate of over 10 cents a lb. The annual
amount to-day exported from Mexico to the U.S.A. is probably
over 86,000,000 lbs., to say nothing of what is sent to
European countries.

In conversation with a British coffee-grower of many years'
residence in Mexico, I was informed that it does not cost
more than 7 cents (Mex.) a lb. to raise coffee and put it on
the market, while the grower receives 80 cents a lb. The
7 cents referred to, however, do not include interest charges
on capital invested, or cost of superintendence ; but merely
cover cost of maintenance of trees, picking, curing and
marketing crops. The profits on the business might be taken
at at least 100 per cent, nett, even when ample deductions
have been allowed for charges, superintendence, depreciation
of plant, etc.

Veracruz ranks as one of the most successful coffee-growing
States in Mexico. Among the more celebrated haciendas is that
of the Monte Blanco plantation, in the Cordoba District, the
property of Mr. Thomas Braniff. This plantation is a typical
modem coffee hacienda, where only a high-grade quality of
the bean is cultivated. Situated upon a natural terrace,
somewhat higher than the average coffee-lands, but just low
enough to escape the frosts, it seems to enjoy all the advan-
tages which a coffee estate should possess. So healthful is the
climate here that the owner has never any dif&culty in attract-
ing labour, and there is at all seasons of the year a plenitude
of assistance available, which, I may say, is a very rare occur-
rence upon coffee-lands all over the Republic of Mexico, as it
is both in Brazil and the Argentine. Under these favourable
conditions, the picking of the berry is pursued scientifically,
leisurely, and therefore much more profitably. Only those
berries which are perfectly ripe are gathered, in place of
stripping the entire branch, as is the custom in Brazil and in
other places where labour is scarce, and hurried picking is

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COFFEE PLANTATIONS 161

necessary. In Mexico I have often seen this practised, but
upon the Monte Blanco estate the operation is conducted more
earefully, the whole plant being gone over three times, which,
if it means more labour, also ensures a better crop and less
damage to the trees. In fact, no really high-class coffee can
be treated in any other way.

There is a complete and very modem installation of
machinery upon this plantation. It originally entailed a
cost of $400,000 (say £40,000), and it has a capacity of
handling completely and expeditiously the entire production
of this large estate, comprising something like 2,000,000 trees.
I am informed that in the course of the next three years the
number of producing trees will have increased to 4,000,000,
including those which are, as yet, immature, and those which
will be freshly planted. At present the annual production of
coffee at Monte Blanco amounts to 1,600,000 lbs. of finished,
dry and marketable berries ; but this output should easily be
doubled within the next few years. With this view, the
present plant was conceived to deal with an output of
8,000,000 lbs., and it can do so easily. Monte Blanco berries
fetch the highest price of any coffee grown in the State of
Yeracruz. Mr. Braniff informed me that he contemplates
creating an additional market for his product by advertising
estensively in the United States and elsewhere, his coffee being
undoubtedly a specially high-graded and wholly unmixed
article of consumption.

President Diaz has a small but only partially cultivated
hacienda near Ayutla, State of Oaxaca, biown as El Foro,
consisting of some 1,800 acres and containing 200,000 coffee-
trees. The President takes but little interest in the place
owing to his far more absorbing duties elsewhere ; but one day
he may retire there, Oaxaca being his native and well-beloved
State.

The Continental Commercial Co., a St. Louis, U.S.A.,
organisation, has very extensive plantations located in the
centre of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, namely at Tolosa,
Oaxaca, Lolita and Monte Verde. The company rank among
the largest sugar-producers of the district, their factory being
thoroughly up-to-date, and conducted upon very modern and
progressive principles. The Monte Verde plantation consists

VOL. n. 82

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162 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

of 1,000 acres; the Oaxaca plantation also of 1,000 acres,
containing 464,178 coffee-trees and 101,844 rubber-trees, while
the Lolita plantation, also of 1,000 acres, has 867,000 coffee-
trees and 188 rubber-trees. Two additional plantations,
known as the Juniapa and the Pittsburg, each comprising
1,000 acres, are planted in sugar-cane, the former including
the large sugar-mill already referred to. The plantation rail-
way runs from a station on the Tehuantepec National line
through the Juniapa, Pittsburg and Oaxaca plantations, while
the Veracruz and Pacific Railroad cuts right through the
Monte Verde plantation. Two out of the four plantations are
situated on the banks of the beautiful Juniapa river.

The Isthmus Plantation Association of Mexico, a Milwaukee
(Wisconsin) concern, owns the famous Hacienda del Corte,
which is situated about 30 kilometres from the station of
Palomares, on the National Tehuantepec Railway. A large
house at Palomares exists for the accommodation of visitors,
and is equipped with telephone connection to the whole of the
property. The company are growers of coffee, rubber and
tropical products, the manager being Mr. Cecilio Oest, a Dane
by birth, and one of the most skilful agriculturalists in Mexico.
The Hacienda del Corte may be reckoned among the more
successful of the mixed-produce plantations of the Republic.

The Badger Mexican Planters' Co., who are manufacturers
of sugar as well as growers of tropical products, have some
first-class property located in the State of Veracruz, and
situated some 8 miles from the Monte Verde Railway Station,
on the Veracruz and Pacific Railroad. The properties are
right in the heart of the coffee and rubber district, adjoining
such well-known estates as La Junta, which produces coffee,
rubber and cacao ; Gascajal, coffee and rubber ; La Solidad,
coffee and rubber ; and Buena Vista, rubber and sugar. The
private property of Mr. Harvey, who is a very well known and
successful horticulturalist, grower of rubber, cacao and tropical
plants of various kinds, adjoins, as do the properties of
Mr. Newark and Mr. Lane, both growers of rubber and coffee.
In addition, there are several cattle-estates situated on both
sides of the river, the district generally being considered the
best from a productive point of view in the south of Mexico.

At the end of last year indications pointed to there being an

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Sfi A 92.1

Genkrai. View of the City of Tehuantepec.

On the Pacific Coast in TkorirM. Mkxico.

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COFFEE AND CORN 168

average crop of coffee throughout the different districts of
Mexico, but since then a decided check to the crop has ensaed,
and when I left the Bepublic early in the year, it seemed as if
in certain parts the return would be exceedingly poor. In the
Cord6ba district, for instance, the prospects of both the coffee
and tobacco crops were very disappointing, and general
financial depression was notable. Nevertheless, Mexico can
always be counted upon to produce more coffee than it con-
sumes, and for this reason the price rarely varies to any
material extent. The present price for the best grades of
export coffee is $25 {£2 10s.) a quintal, and for the best
grades of coffee for the home market about $20 (£2) a quintal.
The great bulk of the coffee exported goes to the U.S.A., as
already pointed out. Mexican and other mild grades of coffee
feel the pressure of the advance in Brazil grades very sensi-
tively, and the demand for mild grades continually grows
stronger as the price of Brazil grades advances ; and while the
advance on the prices of Mexican is not so rapid as in the case
of Brazil grades, the increase in demand more than makes up
the difference. Mexican coffee-producers do not benefit so
much from the advance in prices as through the increased
demand for Mexican coffee. Now that coffee-users are feeling
the pressure of increased prices for Brazil grades, or what they
know as ** Mocha and Java,'' they are turning their attention
to Mexican and other mild grades which have hitherto been
without trade. Unconsciouslyy the Brazilian Government, by
putting the valorization scheme into effect, are conducting a
campaign which is educating the coffee-users in the U.S.A. in
buying Mexican grades, and teaching them their superiority.

While there are some millions of acres of arable land in
Northern Mexico on which corn might be grown with con-
siderable ease and at little cost, and with resultant fortune
for the entrepreneurs, the com crop of Mexico has never been
sufficient for the wants of the people ; and, in spite of a large
increase in the amount of land under cultivation, I am of
opinion that it never will be. Importation will always be
necessary. Every encouragement has been offered to the
growing of com among the Mexicans, the (Government having
imposed duties upon imported wheat — except at certain
periods, when exemption from duty has been introduced.

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164 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

In some parts of the Bepablic, notably the State of Guerrero,
the price of com is absolutely fixed, and does not move to
the extent of a centavo from year to year. It would seem
that com in this part of the country is of the same standard
value as are chocolate-beans in Venezuela, and might even
be used as currency ; but this applies only to a district where
there are no railways, and the only means of transportation
are donkeys and mules driven over a narrow and rocky trail.
In due course, no doubt, railways will come into Guerrero ;
then the price of com will vary as it does in other parts of
the Republic.

In other directions drought has its usual efiiect upon the
com crop, but in all the districts served by railways nothing
like a famine is likely to occur, on account of the immense
supplies which are always on hand from the n.S.A., princi-
pally from Kansas City and Dallas, in Texas.

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CHAPTER LIV

Agriculttire — ^The unprogreBsive haoiendado— Where improvementB oould
be effected — Prinoipal agricultural States and their value — Sheep-
breeding — Averages obtained — Ox-raising — The Mexican breed —
Charaeteristios of the ox — Mexican cattle and its prinoipal markets —
Shipments to the United States — Gk)at-raising — Annual value and
consumption of flesh — Hog-raising — Packing possibilities — The
Chihuahua dog.

Thbbb are certain anomalies existing in connection with the
pursuit of agriculture in Mexico which strike one as somewhat
remarkable in relation to a people so eminently alive to their
own interests as are the haciendados. We find, for instance,
that while cotton-seed meal is one of the most important
products of the country and grown here to great perfection,
nearly the whole of the output is annually exported to the
United States and Europe, instead of being used for the feed-
ing of the cattle in the Bepublic. Were it properly under-
stood, or at least intelligently pursued, the fattening of cattle
could be rendered one of the most profitable and permanent
of industries. Looked at in almost any light, cattle-raising
is a remunerative enterprise, and what it has done and is
doing for the Argentine it could as easily do for Mexico.

It is estimated that to fatten a steer would cost $15 Mex.
(say 80b.), and inasmuch as there exists a steady demand from
Europe and the United States for choice beef-cattle at an
average of 24 centavos (say 6d.) a pound, and there are no
import duties to be met, an appreciable profit is to be earned
in this direction alone. Nevertheless, we find Mexican cattle
badly crossed and poorly fed, small in size and weighing
anything between 900 and 1,200 lbs. instead of something
between 1,100 and 1,400 lbs. An entirely different condition
of affairs might be instituted and maintained were some

165

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166 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

English Shorthorn bulls imported for the purpose of improving
the breed. The Federal Government have, with character-
istic energy, done what they could, by removing all imposts
and restrictions, to encourage such importation, but the
Mexican farmer and breeder is not sufficiently enterprising,
as it would appear, to avail himself of these concessions.

The United States adjoining are an ever-present market
for all that Mexico can offer in the form of beef-cattle, and
especially just now, when the shortage in the States' normal
amount of stock amounts to something like 8,500,000 to
9,000,000 head of cattle.

Cattle and sheep are raised in a more or less systematic
manner — and, as I have intimated, rather less than more —
all over the Republic, the principal producing States being
Jalisco, Chihuahua, Guanajuato, Michoac&n, Veracruz,
Durango, Zacatecas and Tucat&n, and in the order of impor-
tance in which I have placed them. The value in figures of
these particular States may be put approximately as follows :

Jalisco produces cattle worth $18,850,000

Ghihnahua

n

»

9,240,000

Ghianajuato

»

99

8,850,000

Miohoao&n

yt

»

8,540,000

Yeracmz

»

»

8,240,000

Durango

»

n

7,760,000

Zaoateoaa

t)

)»

6,880,000

Tacat4n

»

19

6,150,000

CoahuUa, with about $4,160,000 ; Pu6bla, with $4,400,000 ;
San Luis Potosi, with $4,700,000 ; Mexico, with $3,600,000 ;
and Tamaulipas, with $3,980,000, may be also reckoned as
important cattle-raising States ; but there are millions of acres
situated in these and other portions of the Republic eminently
adapted by the nature of the pastorage, the abundance of
water and the nearness of markets, for the industry, which are
at present disregarded, or but sparsely utilised. Take Oaxaca,
for instance. The magnificent ranges here reach down to
the Pacific slope, and these, in spite of the long dry season
which prevails, offer strong inducements to cattle-raisers.
Nevertheless, the total value of cattle produced there during
the past few years has not exceeded $1,750,000 annually.
Here, as in Topic, Jalisco, Guerrero and Michoac&n, pasture

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CATTLE-RAISING 167

always exists in a greater or less quantity, and with necessary
precautions in the way of erecting dams, water-holes, tanks,
etc., etc., both food and water might easily be found in sufficient
quantities all the year round. The water provisions would
be necessary to prevent the pasturage in the near vicinity of
the rivers from being eaten up, and also enable the more broken
parts of the country to be used equally with the smooth and
flat table-lands.

Sheep and goat raising is a branch of agriculture which is
somewhat better understood and more generally pursued than
cattle-breeding. At the end of 1906 there were probably not
fewer than 5,000,000 sheep, having a value of $9,000,000, in
the country, exclusive of several millions of goats, sJthough
official statistics put the number and value at considerably
less. The average value of a sheep on the range may be
quoted at $1.75 to $4.00 (say 8s. 6d. to 8s.), but the quality
as a rule is mediocre. The principal sheep-raising States are
those of Zacatecas, which rears about 800,000 head annuaUy ;
San Luis Potosi, 500,000 ; Goahuila, 200,000, and the States
of Guanajuato, Chihuahua, Durango, Hidalgo, Mexico,
Michoacan, Nuevo Leon, Pu6bla and Tamaulipas, with an
average of from 80,000 to 100,000 head apiece.

It has been found from experience that sheep thrive a great
deal better on the great central plateaux, where are found the
more arid lands of the Bepublic. Here they are practically
exempt from disease, and fewer predatory animals are to
be feared than in the semi-tropical districts. Those which
have been fed upon para and other damp foreign grasses have
done well for the first two or three years, but sooner or
later disease has broken out among them, and upon several
occasions whole flocks have become contaminated, and have
either succumbed or have had to be destroyed. The cost of
feeding the sheep on the table-lands is extremely low, being
from 16 to 80 centavos (say 4d. to 8^d.) per head per annum,
the price varying according to the amount and character
of the pasturage. These are the prices paid for rented
pasturage.

More enterprise has been displayed in breeding sheep than
cattle, and every year a fair number of Merino rams are
imported, and the stock is tolerably well maintained on the

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168 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

generality of ranches. The native and unimproved breeds
die out very fast, and the amount of wool which they yield
continually diminishes both in quantity and quality. Mexican
fanners and breeders understand this perfectly well, and are
consequently maintaining their flocks at a certain — but by no
means the highest — standard. The breeding ewes average
from 1^ to 1^ lambs per annum. The graded stock will
yield from 4 to 8 lbs. of wool as against the 1 to 1^ lbs. from
the ungraded sheep. Here, again, the character of the
pasturage and the locality prove the controlling factors. In
butcher's meat the average sheep will bring from $7.00 to
$9.50 (say 14s. to 19s.) on the range, and in the towns or
cities from 17s. to 22s. a head. The wool produced is some-
what coarse, and not equal to the best class Merino wool of
the United States or elsewhere. There is little question but
that it could be improved.

The ox proves himself as invaluable an aid to haulage and
locomotion in Mexico as he does in Africa. Upon the hacienda
he works patiently, ploddingly, uncomplainingly his 8 and
9 hours a day, and even more when asked of him. Those
who have watched an ox hauling heavy wagons full to the
brim of farm produce, or standing for hours together in the
burning sun with lowered head and dull, expressionless gaze,
imagine the animal to be utterly unemotional. It is true that
one cannot get to love an ox as one may love a horse or a dog,
and one feels but small inclination to caress or stroke his
shaggy head or hairy sides. Nevertheless, a feeling of con-
fidence can be established between the ox and his driver, and
some Mexican peons get to know and like certain of their
beasts, with which they can do much more than with others.

Every ox has his own particular characteristics, his likes
and his dislikes, his good days and his bad. There is the
willing ox and the obstinate; the big-hearted beast who
loyally performs his portion of the labour and would continue
to do it until he dropped, and the mean-spirited ox who pre-
tends to be doing his part while all the time he is holding
back and shifting all the heavy work upon his companions.
The knowing of one's team and their distinctive peculiarities
is very essential, and although the Mexicans are not nearly as
intelligent or clever in their handling of their oxen as are the

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MEXICAN CATTLE 169

Boers in South Africa, they can manage them fairly well and
get an immense amount of work out of them. They make
them travel at a faster rate than the African oxen — four or
five miles against three in the hour — and Mexican oxen are
less subject to disease than those of South Africa.

A large amount of Mexican cattle finds its way annually to
Cuba, and trade with this Island is growing with great rapidity,
not alone in this respect, but in general goods and passen-
gers. At present a good deal of the Mexican cattle exported is
sent from the colder regions, but they are by no means the best
which the Bepublic can produce. Being in a generally poor
and half-starved condition when despatched, they arrive at
the Island of Cuba in a deplorable condition, and sometimes
as many as ten or twenty out of one cargo will die en route
or have to be slaughtered immediately they are landed.
Apparently the Inspectors of the Mexican Society for the
Prevention of Cruelty to Animals have not as yet devoted
any attention to this crying evil. Mexican cattle is more in
demand in Cuba than either horses or mules, but good beef-
oxen are not as a rule sent there. Cuban agriculturalists and
cattle-breeders prefer to buy up the lean stock and fatten
them upon their own pastures ; and even allowing for the
heavy death-rate referred to among the transient beasts, the
speculation proves a very profitable one. Several Cuban
buyers are permanently stationed in Mexico, and have
chartered steamers especially for cattle.

In comparison with the cattle sent into the United States
of America, however, the Cuban trade is small. Great
numbers of animals find their way across the frontier at
Eagle Pass and El Paso, the respective frontier towns of the
National and Central Bailways, while the principal seaports
used are San Bias and Guaymas on the West-coast. Last
year over 65,000 head of cattle were purchased from Mexico
by the United States, which, however, was poor compared
with the returns of a few years previously, which amounted
to over 99,000. Most of these cattle are sent to California to
be grazed, but they find the climate there considerably more
rigorous than that of Mexico, and as a consequence many of
them die from cold and exposure. Nevertheless, so remunera-
tive is this class of business found that it is stated by a

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170 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

serioas-minded and experienced importer that an investment
ol $30,000 U.S. Currency (aay de6,000) realises, with ordinary
good luck and under normal conditions, a profit of over $20,000
(say £4,000) in six months. No wonder that one hears of
" cattle-kings," and of millionaires increasing and multiplying
in this part of the world.

Goat-raising is another industry very actively pursued,
especially in the State of Coahuila, where both sheep and goats
are profitably bred. Here there are some 7,500,000 hectares
(say 15,875,000 acres) of grazing land, the greater portion
being goat pastures. For one year in Coahuila the average
consumption of goat-flesh amounts to 14,290 animals of an
estimated value of d£ll,175. The meat is sold per kilo (2 lbs.)
at from 14 to 16 centavos (say S^d. to 4d.), but it is disposed
of nearly always by the whole carcass at from $2 to $2.25
(4s. to 4s. 6d.).

In Oaxaca also goat-raising has long been an important and
thriving industry. Although found in large quantities all over
the State, the animals are the most numerous in and around
NochixtUn. Thousands of animals are slaughtered in the
autumn, and a visit to the stock-yards creates something like
a feeling of horror and repugnance — as much as anything that
is occasioned by inspecting the packing-houses of Chicago.
The slaughtering is usually carried out at night, and the
extent of the undertaking may be guessed when it is stated
that some ranches breed and kill as many as 80,000 goats in
the year. The killing is done with an ordinary knife, the
animal being stabbed in the neck and left to run around the
yard in agony until it falls exhausted and dies from weakness.
This occurs to those among the victims which run far enough
from the butchers ; others which are less fortunate are very
often skinned and disembowelled while still alive. The
animals dead and dying lay about the corral in every direc-
tion, and where they happen to fall there they are skinned.
There seems to be but little system or orderliness about the
proceedings. As many as 800 or 9(X) goats are slaughtered
in one night, and all the carcasses are sold by noon the
following day. I have never observed any kind of official
inspection either as to the condition of the animals before or
after death. On the other hand, no complaints of diseased

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MULES, HOGS AND SHEEP 171

flesh being exposed for sale have come under my notice, and
in regard to the state of the shambles the purchasers are not
particular.

Hog-raising is indulged in all over the Bepublic, every
Indian, however poor, having his family of pigs, which usually
share his hut at nights, but must forage for themselves among
the rubbish and dust-heaps during the day. In the State
of Tamaulipas the breeding of pigs has assumed important
dimensions. So large is the trade done that a packing-house
is under consideration. There are probably over 150,000 hogs
in this State alone. The total number slaughtered in the
Bepublic during the year is 800,000. There is not much
attempt at scientific breeding, and, taken as a whole, the hogs
are not of a very high standard as to quality.

Another packing-house has been lately launched at Oananea,
in Sonora, the principal parties interested being a group
of Americans with Mr. E. A. Tovrea, who acts as General
Manager. The enterprise is known as the Sonora Packing
Go;, and has branches and depdts at Lowell, Bisbee and
Douglas in the United States.

Chihuahua claims to be the second largest producer of
cattle in the Republic, Jalisco being the first The value of
the live-stock is roughly $20,000,000 (say £2,000,000), cattle
forming the principal part. Horses, mules, goats and donkeys
are raised in great numbers also. Being close to good
markets, both home and foreign, the stock is readily disposed
of, large numbers finding purchasers in the United States.
The price of pasture-lands still remains low, owing no doubt
to the immense stretches still unoccupied, the price ranging
from $2.50 (5s.) to $8.00 (6s.) per acre. Here also some
improvement in cattle-breeding is to be observed, the strains
being crossed with Durhams, Herefords and other noted
breeds, and thriving uncommonly well. The sheep are
becoming better-bred likewise, and the Bambouillet breed is
found excellent for crossing. Mules are profitably bred in
Chihuahua, crossing the Kentucky jacks with the Mexican
mares producing fine, good-looking animals. The stock is
generally thoroughly healthy, and the State maintains a
strict quarantine inspection upon all imported animals.

Of the several extensive and successful cattle-ranches in

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172 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

the State of Coahuila those belonging to Messrs. William
Parcell and Co. (of Saltillo) stand prominent. They are
known as Esmeralda and Santa Anita y Terrenos de la
Frontdra, comprising about 800,000 acres. They are located
between the San Bodrigo and San Antonio Rivers, both of
which are flowing streams, and have ample water all the year
round. Upon these extensive ranges the goats and mules
bred there thrive amazingly. The prices realised locally for
the former are $8.50 (say 7s.) a head, and for the latter $100
(£10) per head, the mules being bred from the finest Kentucky
jacks and native mares.

Although dog-breeding has by no means attained a posi-
tion of prominence in Mexico, if I except the raising of the
diminutive and extremely beautiful little creature known as
the *' Chihuahua dog," some interest is being evinced in the
matter, and at Coahuila two enterprising Englishmen have
latterly successfully crossed the English foxhound with the
Texan hound, the breed resulting in a very good hunting
dog. The hound is found invaluable for running-down and
killing the destructive and powerful wild-cat and coyote
(a kind of wolf), as well as the white-tailed deer.

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CHAPTER LV

Hadendas — The haoiendado— Life on a hacienda — The passing of the
Mexican landowner — Ancient and modem methods of husbandry —
How an estate is worked — Labourers' wages and treatment — Number
of haciendas in Mexico — ^A model estate — Jalpa and its proprietor —
Modem system of working — Remarkable system of irrigation— The
great Jalpa dam — ^The hacienda's productiveness.

It is said that the days of the great haciendados are passing
rapidly, and that in a few years' time their place will know
them no more. A public writer once declared that Mexico
was ruled by her farmers; and certainly the great landed-
proprietors of the Spaniards' times were mighty powers in
the land, as potent as the great mine-owners and employers
of thousands of peon labourers — in many instances the
haciendado and the mine-owner were the same.

I am afraid that hacienda-life, with its comparative isola-
tion and separation from the gaieties of the Capital, has
but little real attraction for the rising generation of owners ;
and, in the majority of cases, the management of these huge
estates is left sJmost entirely in the hands of the major-domo,
and but little supervised by the proprietors. Some take their
acquaintances and their families there at certain — or uncertain
— seasons of the year; but two or three weeks are usually
considered the limit of the visitors' stay.

The price of land almost everywhere has advanced so
rapidly of late, years that the haciendado finds a larger
income from the sale of his ancestral estate than from farm-
ing it himself. Many of the largest properties have been
cut up into small lots and sold, and instead of continually
amassing more and more land, as their forefathers did, the
modem proprietors are distributing their once big holdings
gradually and apparently without any keen feelings of regret.

178

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174 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

With the passing away of the feudal powers which were
formerly wielded by the great haciendados has decayed also
their greatest charm. Since the owner cannot any longer, by
the new laws of his country, hold the powers of life and death
over his serfs, wage war upon his neighbour and generally
play the part of a feudal baron of old, he will have none of
it, and prefers to pass his time in gay Paris, London or
Vienna, and occasionally in Mexico City.

Even the most up-to-date native haciendado in Mexico—
and there are to be found several meriting this description — is
a mixture of the old and the new methods distinctive of neither,
and with a tendency to remain indefinite. While modem
harvesting and threshing machines are to be found on the
one hand, the lumbering two-wheeled ox-carts and winnowing
by tossing the grain and chaff into the air with scoop-shovels
are to be seen in operation on the other. The Mexican agri-
culturalist clings tenaciously to his traditional hoary-headed
methods, and, while accepting with reluctance and some
suspicion the newest appliance, he steadfastly refuses to
altogether abandon the old. Thus we see the anomaly
referred to; and I am of opinion that the same condition
of things will continue for some years to come.

Upon the haciendas, which have as yet introduced no
modern methods of procedure, the same kind of agricultural
work goes on to-day just as it has gone on for centuries both
here and in some parts of Egypt. We have the wooden-beam
plough, with a small iron shoe, which merely scratches the
surface of the ground to a depth of little more than 6 inches,
and scarcely that in width; the hoe, weighing from 8 to
5 pounds, and wielded in a clumsy and inefficient manner ;
the sickle, a saw-toothed instrument, which misses as many
blades as it cuts, and a few other equally primitive and profit-
less implements. It takes two men as a rule to manage one
plough in addition to the team of oxen, whereas one man
with a modern iron plough and the same number of oxen
could do the work of a half-dozen.

The thrashing of grain on most of the haciendas is done by
driving horses or mules around and around a ring covered
with the grain, and which is thus trodden-out of the husk,
as in the old Biblical days. As already mentioned, the

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A MEXICAN HACIENDA 175

winnowing is accomplished by tossing the grain and the
chaff together into the air about 10 or 12 feet high (the
height being gauged by a pole stuck in the ground) by means
of a shovel. From the fields to the barns the grain is con-
veyed upon ponderous two-wheeled carts, which as often as
not get stuck in the mud, dropped over bridges and wedged
in between gateposts. Such contretemps disturb the equa-
nimity of the Mexican peon not at all. I have seen a trestle
bridge thus blocked, and from fifteen to twenty fully-laden
wagons awaiting a clearing before being able to pass; but
the drivers were wholly undisturbed, and whiled away their —
and their employers' — time until the man who caused the
block had cleared it — entirely without any assistance from
them — the while laughing and chatting, or calmly sleeping.

A hacienda run upon modern methods — or as nearly
approaching the modern as the Mexican peon labourer will
allow it to be — is usually a very profitable enterprise. I
visited several such, and remained as a welcome guest during
the harvest season, which during 1906 was one of the finest
which had been experienced for many years throughout the
greater portion of the country. The hacienda is usually
divided into two sections, the cattle and the agricultural.
Each of these sections has its foreman and staff, all of whom
are, however, responsible to the head Administrator of the
estate. The cattle section is usually a very important and
profitable part of the hacienda's business. It is subdivided
into several different ramos, each under a local superintendent
called a major-domo, who has his assistant and men, and his
own group of working oxen. Where there are, say, five such
ramos, there will be five sets of different-coloured oxen, one
ram^ having white, another brown, another white with brown
spots, and a fourth white with black spots. The particular
beasts belonging to each division of a big hacienda are thus
easily identified, and as easily counted each evening. Where
some 8,000 or 9,000 head of cattle exist upon one hacienda,
and this is by no means an exceptionally large number, the
necessity for some such classification will be recognised.

The labourers reside upon the hacienda, which builds and
supplies the houses rent free, permitting each family to keep
1 milk cow and 1 horse, but no others. Small payment has

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176 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

to be made for the privilege of grazing these animals, at the
rate of $2^ (say 6s.) a year. Upon the agricultural portions
of the hacienda the peons are not allowed to keep any female
animal except pigs and chickens, for reasons which can be
understood.

The peon earns on an average 26 cents (say 6d.) a day,
being paid for a day's work consisting of the hours between
daylight and dark, amounting to 11 hours in the summer, or
by the tarca, or task. This latter is regulated by measurement,
and according to judgment or convention. In our country we
should term it " contract work."

Except at harvest-time the labourers on the haciendas
receive their wages half in money and half in produce —
namely, com, wheat, barley, and beans and garbanzo^ or
chick-seed.

The major-domo receives a wage of $4.00 (say 8s.) a week,
with free house. His assistant receives but $2.60 (say 6s.),
and free quarters. They both work as hard as their peons,
and at harvesting time the hours are from 8 or 4 a.m. to
sunset, say 6 or 6.80 p.m. Overtime is very seldom paid for,
and then only to the peons; but upon some of the more
liberally-conducted haciendas such form of encouragement is
adopted at times when extra field-work means, perhaps, the
saving of a portion of the harvest from the impending rains.
Generally speaking, the work of the hacienda proceeds
perfectly smoothly and uneventfully from season to season
and from year to year, excellent relations existing between
employers and employees, and only now and again strikes or
revolts occurring. These are usually of a mild sort, and being
entirely unorganised are of brief duration, and generally end
in the discomfiture of the malcontents.

Although precise official statistics are lacking, careful
inquiry and computation lead to the conclusion that to-day
there are about 8,060 haciendas (or, as they are called in
most other Spanish-speaking countries, such as the Argentine,
Chile, Uruguay, etc., ranchios) in the Bepublic of Mexico.
These are split up as follows : Cereals (grain, wheat, barley,
chick-seed, etc.), 8,400; sugar-cane, 1,880; henequSn, 890;
coffee, 870 ; maguey (pidque), 276 ; cacoa, 288 ; cotton, 186 ;
maguey {mescat), 184; tobacco, 90; cabinet woods, 69;

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JALPA HACIENDA 177

indigo^ 80; fruits, 6; vines, 6; and the rest devoted to
cattle-breeding only.

The general produce found growing on the Mexican
haciendas comprise the following: Bice, sugar-cane, coffee,
sweet potato, barley, cereals, gum, peppers, cocoa, beans,
fruit, chick-pea (garbanzo), fibre -plants, maize, melons,
bananas, tobacco, vanilla, and, among breeders, horses, cattle,
goats, sheep and pigs. There are many devoted to rubber,
guayule (a native rubber) and the maguey plants. Naturally
the products vary according to the situation of the hacienda
and the climatic conditions prevailing. Thus, in some States
the northern portion may produce wheat, maize, beans and
other cereals, while on the southern section cotton, coffee,
tobacco and rubber are found. Cattle are bred almost every-
where in great or small quantities, while ixtle and timber are
cultivated upon some others.

One of the most lucrative and among the largest of the
haciendas in the country is that of Jalpa de Canovas, the
property of Mr. Oscar J. Braniff, one of the best known and
most successful financiers in the Bepublic, and still quite
a young man. Jalpa, which consists of some 19 dtiUos
(a citiUo is about 1 league square), was inherited by Mrs.
Braniff through her father, Senor Canova, who, again, became
owner through his first wife, the Countess de Jalpa, descendant
of a long line of Spanish landowners holding their titles direct
from the Crown of Spain.

The history of the Jalpa (or as it was formerly spelled
Xalpa) estate is a remarkably interesting one, most of the
earlier title-deeds and other papers being in existence, intact
with their original seals and royal signatures. At one time
the hacienda was of immense size, stretching through two
different States ; and although a good deal of the original holding
had been sold in earlier days to satisfy the demands of certain
extravagant members of the family, sufficient remains to
constitute a small province. A day's hard ride is not enough
to enable one to see all the land belonging to Jalpa, which
occupies the basin of a charming and most fertile valley,
abundantly watered and forming as compact and scenically
attractive a landed property as one could find in any part of
the world.

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178 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

Some 82,000 acres are planted in wheat, and vast stretches
are given up to irrigated and grazing lands. Over 1,800 men
are almost continually employed on the hacienda, which, with
their families, make up a total population of over 6,200 people,
all satisfied with their lot, and apparently wanting bnt little
more than they possess.

The total area of the Hacienda de Jalpa is abont 180
square miles, a tolerably large estate for a single individual to
own. Of this, about one-third, or say 46 square miles, is low
level alluvial soil, and the remaining two-thirds are either
hill or valley. The low-lying land, in combination with
a splendid system of dams or reservoirs and canals on the
higher lands, comprise the irrigation system of Jalpa for the
raising of cereals and high-grade pastures, such as the valuable
alfalfa, clover, etc., etc. Upon the higher ground are found the
extensive cattle ranges, and a multitude of smaller patches
of land, sown with corn, and depending upon the elements
for their watery sustenance. The pasture -land supports
between 8,000 and 10,000 head of cattle, some uncommonly
fine specimens being among them. At one time, some of the
most celebrated bulls used in the ring at Mexico City came
from Jalpa, and many a doughty fight was recorded to their
credit.

I do not think it can be denied that nowhere in Mexico —
nor, indeed, out of it — is to be found a more complete or
perfect system of irrigation than that constructed and main-
tained at a high state of efficiency at Jalpa. It is because it
proved to be the finest I have yet seen that I have devoted
some considerable space to its description here. The art of
irrigation was well known to and greatly prized by the ancient
Aztecs of the Anahuac Valley, to say nothing of the Egyptians
before them. To-day may be traced the remains of numerous
deep and shallow canals and lakes which at one time covered
the face of the country like a network. These were all
irrigating ditches and reservoirs, while the so-called *' floating
gardens," upon which many writers on Mexico have dwelt with-
out at all understanding their origin and purport, were merely a
system of irrigation ditches or canals, and served their purpose
admirably enough. Jalpa hacienda has, indeed, long been
celebrated for its dams and reservoirs. Some which were

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CELEBRATED JALPA DAM 179

built by the Spaniards, over 100 years ago, still exist, and one
of them in particular was considered in its day such a remarkable
structure that the King of Spain, as a reward to its originator,
conferred upon him the title Gonde de la Pr^sa de Jalpa,
which was borne by him and his descendants for many years.

This dam, containing about 16,000,000 cubic metres of
water, gave way before a very severe storm about 70 years
ago, and carried everything, animate and inanimate, before it,
including about 400 natives, who were drowned to a man.
Huge bodies of masonry were swept down about 800 metres
with the rushing stream, and the fact that there is not a single
tree to be found upon the hacienda more than 70 years old
proves the wholesale destruction which was wrought by this
dam-burst. There are not wanting numerous legends con-
nected with this catastrophe, and which lose nothing in their
telling by the old Mexican crones, who love to dwell with
minute detail upon the gruesome and the ghoulish.

The present owner of the hacienda, Mr. Oscar J. Braniff,
himself a clever engineer, and very keenly interested in irriga-
tion projects, is now completing another dam, the construction
of which is being followed with much interest. It will have a
capacity of 85,000,000 cubic metres of water, and thus become
the largest undertaking of its kind in the Bepublic of Mexico.
Mr. Braniff commenced work upon this colossal enterprise
some five or six years ago. The wall, now completed,
measures 550 metres in length at the crown, and it is 85 feet
high. Between foundations and masonry above ground, the
wall represents about 80,000 cubic metres of masonry. Its
total cost, including pipes, valves, canals and other auxiliary
apparatus, amounts to $1,000,000 (£100,000).

The capacity of this dam, added to that of the Jalpa dams
of the Colonial period, aggregates nearly 60,000,000 cubic
metres of water, insured by the water-sheds (of which
Mr. Braniff is part-owner also), and the surface of which is
about 600 square kilometres, thus providing an amount more
than necessary to guarantee sufficient water for the whole
year.

Additionally, however, the hacienda owns the rights on the
Biver Turbio (an affluent of the Biver Lerma), which runs
through the level part of the farm, to the extent of some

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180 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

42,000,000 cnbic metres of water per annam. Altogether,
Jalpa can dispose of an aggregate of over 100,000,000 cnbic
metres of water annnally, all of which, by gravity, irrigates
the 46 miles of level land above mentioned, while the surplus
supply is sold to farmers who are located further down-stream
for the irrigation of their lands, amounting perhaps to about
40 square miles more. The vast importance of such a system
of irrigation as this is obvious, and causes it to rank among
the most remarkable enterprises of its kind of the world.

As is the case with practically all the large estates which I
have seen in Mexico, Jalpa has extensive ranges of residences
for the use of the families employed, headquarters for the
principal employees, and a fine house for the owners, suffi-
ciently commodious to accommodate as many as a hundred
guests at the same time, without crowding or inconvenience.
The park and orchards extend over an area of 80 acres. These
were designed over 60 years ago by some French and German
experts. The Jalpa grounds are reckoned among the most
beautiful in the Republic, and to my mind they certainly
deserve that distinction.

This hacienda has further a modem flour-mill, worked by
hydraulic-power brought some distance over an immense and
very ancient stone aqueduct, in excellent condition still. All
the wheat grown on the farm is handled in this mill, and
represents one of its most lucrative and important departments.
Capacious masonry-built warehouses, over 60 metres in lengthy
and located at different convenient situations about the farm,
remind one strongly of the ancient times of Egypt, when grain
was stored hermetically (but below instead of above ground),
and thus stood for many years until required. The people
living at Jalpa number over 4,000, of whom some 1,800 are
men available for work. Every kind of modem steam plough,
agricultural machinery, large and small, may be found in
daily use here, and I understand Mr. Braniff contemplates
constructing a light-railway to connect Jalpa with the principal
markets and nearest railroad at Francisco Station (Central
Railway).

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CHAPTER LVI

Irrigation — Government and private enterprise — Ancient irrigation system
— Some projects — Lake Tezcoco schemes — Land speculations — Some
shady American companies — Consular actions — New enterprises —
Some vast holdings — Danger of large tracts held by companies— Value
of land in Mexico City.

The question of efficient and cheap irrigation to any agricol-
toral country is one of such great importance that it is not
surprising to find the intelligent Mexican Government devoting
a great deal of its attention, and much of its resources, to the
matter. Unfortunately these efforts have not met with the
ready response and success which they undoubtedly deserve.
This fact is the more surprising considering the number of
colonists and agriculturalists who have established themselves
in Mexico of late years, and whose efforts can only prosper on
well-irrigated land.

The two enterprises — colonisation and irrigation — ought
really to march hand-in-hand, but, as a matter of fact, many
of the individual colonists who come to Mexico, as well as
several of the large agricultural companies, appear to think
little or nothing of the necessity of introducing some form of
systematic irrigation, leaving the question of their failure or
success for the most part to Providence.

It is quite clear that irrigation was understood and practised
by the ancient Aztecs, who, although possessing but a very
rudimentary knowledge, and pursuing their methods in a very
crude form, nevertheless, to use an American expression, " got
there."

The practice of impounding the drainage of small catch-
ment basins in natural depressions and artificial ponds by the
construction of dams of earth and stone was common wherever
the pueblo (country) mode of life prevailed; but only in a very

181

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182 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTUEY

few localities can remains of these methods still be found.
Where they do exist, however, they point clearly to a definite
system of irrigation. The best example of this kind of work
is to be fomid at a place, now a ruin, about 15 miles south-
west of Paeblo Bonito. This is in the basin of a wash of a
river, which is tributary to Gharo CafLon. The valley here
is quite broad, and, on the eastern side, is limited by a low
misa^ at the base of which stand the ruins of the pueblo. The
wash is about one-third of a mile to the west, while south of the
ruins is a large natural depression which was made to serve
as a reservoir for the flood- waters diverted from the wash. A
ditch fully 2 miles long conducted the water from this lake to
the fields, which must have been quite extensive. The ditch
was carried around the mesa and along a series of sandhills on
a fairly uniform grade, the construction being mainly of earth-
work, but wherever necessary the lower border was reinforced
with retaining walls of stone, portions of which still remain in
places.

As I have said, both the Federal and the State Govern-
ments alike are devoting their attention to the question
of irrigation, which must result, sooner or later, in great
advantages to the whole country. It must be remembered
that, for the most part, the land rises perpetually from the
coast to a habitable altitude of over 8,000 metres (say 9,842 ft.),
thus creating a series of insurmountable obstacles both to the
retention and gradual absorption of the rain-waters which are
precipitated over the rough surface of the land, passing with
great velocity over the fields and river-beds in their course to
the sea, leaving behind a deplorable and ruinous drought, and,
in some places, almost perpetual aridity. It is to overcome
this that strenuous efforts are being made by the Government,
as well as by certain enterprising individuals. The former,
for instance, grants privileges by means of concession, such as
the exemption for five years from all Federal taxes (the
stamp-tax excepted) upon all moneys invested in the survey,
construction and repairs of the works for irrigation. It
allows, free of any kind of duty, the importation of all
necessary machinery, scientific instruments and necessary
apparatus, as well as the right to occupy gratuitously any
national lands for the passage of canals, and for the con-

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lEEIGATION 188

straotion of dams or dykes and reservoirs. Furthermore,
it provides for the expropriation of any lands belonging to
private parties, upon proper indemnification being paid. It
is not improbable that one day the Government may go
even farther, and grant direct franchises of a wide-sweeping
nature, as well as guaranteeing a fixed return upon the
capital invested. A system of subsidies could be thought
out, while the Government itself might with advantage under-
take the execution of irrigation works, which could remain
the property of the State to be exploited by it or to be
disposed of either by the gradual sale of the water rights,
or in consideration of payment upon the annual instalment
plan.

I have already referred to the exceptionally fine piece of
enterprise upon the part of Mr. Oscar J. Braniff in connection
with his Jalpa hacienda, namely, the construction of a dam
which will be both the largest and most expensive ever under-
taken by a private individual in the Republic of Mexico.
Other enterprises of which I have personal knowledge include
a vast irrigation scheme in connection with Lake Ghapala, in
the State of Jalisco, upon the part of Mr. Manuel Guesta
GkJlardo, who holds a Federal concession for irrigation pur-
poses. In order to carry out his undertaking, Mr. Gallardo
has borrowed the sum of $1,000,000 (£100,000) from the
Bank of Jalisco; and so important is considered the con-
cession which he holds, that a German Syndicate offered
him, through the banking-house of H. Scherer and Co., of
Mexico City, the considerable sum of $6,000,000 (£500,000) for
his concession.

Messrs. Ortiz and Arocena have introduced a system of
irrigation upon their hacienda of San Francisco, in the State
of Veracruz, using the water of the River Tecolapa. A great
dam is to be built at the entrance of the Guayjuco Cailon, in
the State of Nuevo Leon, which will not only provide water
for the City of Monterey, but will irrigate the surrounding
district for many years to come.

At the mines of Guanajuato, the Guanajuato Development
Co. have built a large dam in connection with their Feregrina
mine; while the same Company, who own the San Isidro
Ranch, are undertaking a highly important irrigation scheme

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184 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

by means of which a huge area of rich, agricoltnral land on
the plain will come into coltivation. The ranch covers some
I69OOO acres, of which two-thirds are tributary to a single
drainage basin. This will be economically but efficiently
dammed, and thus form a reservoir, sufficiently large to
oontain 6,000,000 cubic metres (1,600,000,000 gallons), while,
the ground having a much greater altitude than any of the
surrounding country, the water will be supplied by means of
gravitation to any point which is necessary for the purpose
of the mines, mills, factories, or irrigation.

Important works are in process upon the borders of Lake
Tezcoco, with the idea of utilising for various purposes the
great volume of water continually flowing into the lake. The
waters of Bio Actopan, in Veracruz, are being adapted to
irrigation purposes; while in the State of Quer^taro the
waters of Bio de San Juan del Bio are being used by the
owner of a large ranch, SefLor Geronimo Fernandez. A con-
cession has been given to Mr. Otway Norwood to use the
waters from the river Nazas, in the State of Durango ; while
in the States of Chihuahua, Coahuila and San Luis Potosi,
various concessions have been granted for the use of river
waters. The department of Fomento (Federal Government)
have granted numerous applications of late for concessions
for irrigation purposes, one of the largest being that obtained
by the Inde Gold Mines Co., for using the waters of the
Sestine Biver. The ranch-owners in the Laguna district of
Coahuila State are about to erect a huge reservoir on the Nasas
river for irrigation purposes, and in all probability this will
be the largest construction of its kind in the Bepublic. Three
large enterprises in the State of Chihuahua are projected, one
on the Conchos river above Santa Bosalia, which includes a
large hydro-electric plant ; another in the Mormon Colony of
Juarez ; and a third on the lands of the Corralitos Land and
Cattle Co. The Junta de Mejoras Materiales (Board of
Material Improvements), of Chihuahua, are about to construct
a large dam on the Chuviscar river; and in the State of
Durango an extensive system of irrigation controlled by a
dam is being constructed on the Hacienda Guatimape. This
dam will yield about 8,000,000 cubic metres of water.

In the month of December last the Mexican Government

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AETESIAN WELLS 186

oonolnded an important treaty with the U.S.A. Government
providing for the construction of a big dam across the Bio
Grande, above El Paso> in New Mexico, for the purpose of
making an equitable distribution of the waters of the river to
the two countries for irrigation purposes. The State Govern-
ment of Tamaulipas have granted a concession to Senor Inigo
Noriega, who has long been identified with agricultural enter-
prise, for an important irrigation scheme in that State, which
will have for its object the reclamation of a vast area of arid
lands.

Messrs. S. Pearson and Son, Ltd., have obtained several
important concessions for the utilisation of water for various
purposes, such as motive power, etc., while Senor Andr6s G.
Castro has received powers for the use of the waters of the
river Guadalupe in the State of Mexico, although in a different
direction to that which he originally indicated, it having been
found that the waters could net be taken from the particular
place desired.

The few instances which I have given will show that the
question of irrigation is not being neglected either by Govern-
ment or individuals, but it would be even more satisfactory
were the attention of both to be given to artesian wells. Where
these have been sunk, they have proved very satisfactory.
Another excellent scheme which has been suggested by
Mr. B. F. Hayward, manager of the Mexican Light and Power
Co., is the installation of electric-pumps upon Lake Texeoco,
giving a pressure only sufficient to raise the water into irrigat-
ing ditches, when well-planned systems of distribution could
carry it over a great area. This scheme appears to me to be
perfectly feasible ; and providing the necessary funds could
be found to work it, I believe it would result in financial and
economic success. Li the meantime the Federal Government
has put in the hands of its resident hydrographic engineer, Senor
Alvarez del Castillo, the task of arranging for the use of the
waters of Lake Texeoco for irrigation, including the erection
of flood-gates and the construction of canals radiating from
several distributing points, the object being to use the over-
flow of the lake, which must be kept at a low level in order
to protect the City of Mexico, which on previous occasions has
suffered serious inundations from the effects of its overflow.

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186 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

Among the great water powers of the Bepablio must be
considered those of the Tnzpango and Atoyae, secured by the
enterprising landowners, Messrs. Oscar and Thomas Braniff of
Mexico City. Their important powers were acquired last year
by the Pu6bla Tramways, Light and Power Co* (a concern
now controlled by the Mexican Light and Power Co. and the
Mexican Tramways Co., Ltd.) for the price of $626,000 (say
£62,600). The development of the power acquired is now
approaching completion, the combined capacity amounting to
between 50,000 and 60,000 effective h.p. Perhaps of the two
important sources of power mentioned, that of the Tuxpango-
fall presents the greatest facilities for development. In fact,
it is considered to be the cheapest developed power in the
Republic. Its power amounts to 85,000 h.p., and is at present
used almost exclusively for the Pu^bla Tramways, Light and
Power Co. ; but inasmuch as the power available will shortly
amount to a great deal more than will be needed for the
Pu^bla purposes — for a considerable time to come, at any rate
— a portion of the power will be carried through to Mexico
City, where the demand for additional power and light has
grown so enormously that it can only with difficulty be
supplied.

A feature worth noting in connection with the Tuxpango-
falls supply is that there exists no element of doubt or con-
jecture about it. The water in the Rio Blanco has been
checked for the last 20 years by the hydro-electric installa-
tions up-river, built, for the greater part, by the firm of
G. and 0. Braniff and Co., and used for the large cotton-
mills, lighting and other industries situated in and around
Orizaba.

Apart from the value of this continuous water-power to the
above-named industries, the development of the Tuxpango
and Atoyac Falls means great advantages to numerous other
enterprises, both actual and contemplated. Among these. is
the Orizaba Light and Power Company, owned by Messrs.
Segura, Braniff and Co., which will derive undoubted advan-
tages from the development, as the rapid demand for their
power has also caused them to look elsewhere for their supply.
Again, the proximity of the City of Veracruz, and the
enormous railroad terminal developments proceeding there

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WATER-POWER 187

bring prominently to mind electric suggestions for running
lines into the first Port of the Republic.

The Mexican Railway, now about the most profitable line
in Mexico, and which was the first to be constructed in the
Republic with British capital, has seriously considered the
question of adopting electrical traction. The line passes over
an incline from sea-level to a height of some 8,000 ft., with
grades running up to 4^ per cent, on curves ; and there can
be no question that some day electrical traction will be used
for negotiating these heavy grades and curves. Here, then,
will be found the value of the Tuxpango and Atoyac power.
The Messrs. Braniff, in conjunction with the Westinghouse
Electric and Manufacturing Co., have been working steadily
for the last four or five years to bring about the adoption of
this suggestion, and while it cannot be asserted that the
Mexican Railway will finally conclude to electrify their lines,
the earnestness with which the matter has been taken up,
together with the practical experiments and demonstrations
culminating in the adoption of electric power by the Grand
Central Railroad of New York, have served a great purpose in
showing what electric power can do, especially for roads
running through mountainous countries, which may be said
to be the physical condition from Mexico down to Patagonia.

The agricultural possibilities of Mexico have not escaped
the attention of that large body of knaves who are always
ready to fatten upon the success of a country and the
credulity of legitimate investors. Thus it happens that no
country has suffered more from fraudulent exploitation than
Mexico, and even if to-day it can be claimed that the air has
been somewhat cleared, the memory of their bitter experience
must still linger with a large number of victims of com-
paratively recent times. Much about the same frauds as
were perpetrated in the U.S.A. in connection with insurance,
wool and mining, were attempted with only too much success in
regard to Mexican plantation propositions, the result of which
was that in nine cases out of ten the investors lost every
penny of their money. This may appear a strong statement,
as indeed it is, but I think, upon investigation, it will be
found accurate. I do not mean to say that all the failures
were the result of fraud. Some schemes, no doubt, were

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188 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

honest enough in their inception, but unfortunately they none
the less ended in financial disaster. To the credit of the late
American Consul-General in Mexico City (Mr. Parsons) be
it said, he strove strenuously to bring to justice some of the
scoundrels who were responsible for the swindling of American
investors in regard to Mexican land schemes; while his
successor, Deputy Consul-General Eberhardt, who has since
been transferred to a responsible post elsewhere, continued
in the same direction. I feel certain that the present able
Consul-General, Mr. Alfred Gottschalk, will prove no less
zealous in his official capacity.

Indeed, investors stand in need of some sort of official
protection, since the majority of them invest their money
without having any opportunity of seeing the properties
which form the basis of the undertakings, and must,
therefore, rely to a great extent upon the bond fides of the
promoters.

One of the worst examples of these land frauds was that
known as the Ubero Plantation Co., promoted by a man
named Ferdinand E. Borges of Indiana, and who in the
month of July last year was righteously sentenced to serve
from twelve to fifteen years in the State prison, having been
convicted upon no fewer than seventy-three counts of larceny,
and upon one of conspiracy in connection with the affairs of
this Company.

If it were not so tragic for the unfortunate investors, it
would be almost amusing to read the description of the Ubero
properties which this man Borges published broadcast, and
which untruthful accounts, I am sorry to say, were innocently
advertised in a number of Mexican newspapers. Another
Company which came to grief, not through fraud but through
bad management, was the Mexican Plantation Co. It had a
capital of |600,000 gold (£120,000), the failure being attri-
buted to the exorbitant prices being paid for the plantation to
the original owners.

The Bio Bonito Plantation Co., a Chicago corporation,
also fell into trouble. This was an offshoot of the Dos Bios
Planters' Association, which also became insolvent, and was
re-organized in the name of the Mexican Gulf Agricultural Co.,
which also went into liquidation, and was again re-organized

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PLANTATION COMPANIES 189

as the Mexican Gulf Commercial Co. It will thus be seen that
the methods of these enterprising promoters in continually
issuing the same scheme is much the same as that which
prevails in the United States as well as over this side among
a class of mining company promoters, and it is astonishing to
find practically the self-same public being victimised again
and again. But then, so long as there are fools in the world,
there will be knaves to prey upon them.

The Tabasco and Chiapas Trading and Transportation Co.,
of Chicago, was yet another instance in which a charge of
fraud was made. The Company was described as ** a trading
and transportation undertaking," but according to the detec-
tives who investigated the matter, the transportations appear
to have been mostly confined to the money of the victims
passing into the pockets of the promoters. Neither the State
of Tabasco nor that of Chiapas appear to have had any real
concern in the schemes of the promoters, who are said to have
netted no less a sum than $i300,000 (£160,000). Both the
President and Treasurer of the Tabasco and Chiapas Trading
and Transportation Co. of Chicago were arrested on a charge
of using the U.S. mails in a scheme to defraud. As an
instance of such fraud, it was said that land was bought at
$1 per acre and sold to the shareholders at |800 !

A Company of a different kind is the Dos Bios Plantation,
which, however, has been hardly less financially unfortunate.
The original capital was placed at $5,000,000 gold (£1,000,000),
of which $3,800,000 had eventually to be written-off as lost,
so that the capital stands to-day at $1,200,000, and $370,000
mortgages. When the Company defaulted in the payment of
the interest on its bond issue the holders made application to
the Courts to have the mortgage foreclosed, and thus they
secured the entire property. As a matter of fact, the losses
were not anything like as heavy as they appeared at first
sight, as the Common stock cost the holders nothing, they
having been presented with these as dcmceurs upon subscribing
for the bonds, as is customary with American enterprises.
The plantation is now doing much better, and may turn out a
moderately successful undertaking yet. It is situated on the
Isthmus of Tehuant^pec, in one of the most productive portions
of the Republic.

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190 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

Among the more successful enterprises may be mentioned
several which have been formed of recent times.

The Chiapas Land and Stock Co. owns some extensive
plantations not far from the border of Guatemala, and in the
district now being served by the new Fan- American Railway.
In the same district the U.L. Dyke Investment Co., of Los
Angeles, California, owns a large tract of land intended
for colonisation purposes, part of which property will be put
upon the market in small allotments as the opportunity
offers. A London Syndicate last year purchased, through
its representative, Mr. J. J. Harold, of Mexico City, some
170,000 acres of forest land, principally pine, in the Territory
of Topic, located on the borders of the Santiago river. It is
intended to clear this ground of its timber and use the same
for colonisation purposes, for which it is admirably adapted.
Some Washington capitalists have purchased 200,000 acres of
land in the State of Oaxaca, located about 60 miles from the
City of that name, and about 25 miles from the line of the
Mexican Southern Railway. British capitalists are also
interested in this enterprise, and will market the land with
the valuable timber with which it is covered. The Sinaloa
Land Co. own something like 10,000,000 acres of land in the
State of Sinaloa, but so far little or nothing has been done
with it.

A number of American capitalists, headed by the well-
known firm of George D. Cook and Co., of New York, are
interested in the Sierra Madre Land and Lumber Co., which
owns 2,815,000 acres of rich pine-timber lands, situated in
the two States of Chihuahua and Sonora. The Company have
built a railway to their sawmills from Temosachic, making
connection with the Chihuahua and Pacific and the Mexican
Central Railways, thereby bringing the property into close touch
with the markets. Sawmills, with a capacity of 500,000 ft. of
lumber per day, have been erected, and the cutting and the
marketing of the timber have been in active operation since
the first month of this year.

It cannot be that the acquisition of such huge tracts of land
as these is beneficial to the country as a whole. In fact, it
may be regarded almost as dangerous, and I venture to say
that sooner or later the Mexican Government will have to

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LAND VALUES 191

inkoduce legislation which will discourage corporations or
individuals from acquiring such huge blocks of land, and
allowing them to lie fallow. We have seen the evil results of
such policy in Australia, where there are a large number of
proprietors who own millions of acres returning nothing to
them and nothing to the community. It must be remembered
that the untilled land pays no taxes in Mexico, and, therefore,
there is every incentive for these corporations to lock up the
land for an indefinite time. The Government could easily
obviate such a practice as this by imposing a small but suffi-
cient tax per acre upon all held land of the Bepublic, whether
cultivated or not. Not only would the country derive an
enormous revenue, such as would enable the Government
to abolish other taxes, and otherwise derive advantage, but
it would put a stop to the land-grabbing which is going on
now to a very dangerous degree. Additionally, small farmers
and colonists would be induced to go into the country in much
larger numbers than at present.

Undoubtedly, land values all over the Republic have shown
an altogether astonishing advance during the past few years,
and some enormous tracts of territory have changed hands,
the purchasers being principally American capitalists. In the
State of Chihuahua, for instance, during the last two years,
nearly 4,000,000 acres of the finest timber lands in the Sierra
Madre region have passed into the hands of Americans, at a
very much higher price than would have been paid, say, 10
years ago. A price of $1 gold (4s. 2d.) per acre may be taken
as a general basis of to-day's renting.

In regard to grazing-lands, some comparatively recent sales
showed an increase of from $2,600 (^£250) per sitio to £8,800
per sitio; while, in the State of Tamaulipas, several im-
portant colonisation projects have matured, and some
extensive tracts of rich, tropical agricultural lands have
been taken over by different Syndicates for the purpose of
being resold to prospective settlers. Beports from other
States, and from the southern part of the Bepublic in par-
ticular, indicate that the same increased demand for suitable
land is being met with.

So far as prices of land in Mexico City and such cities as
Guadalajara, Guanajuato, Tampico and Oaxaca are concerned,

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192 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

quite fancy figures have latterly been given. As an instance
of the first-named, it may be said that some 28 years ago,
three native bathing establishments existed, in a line parallel
with the Pas^o de la Beforma. The site upon which these
stood was purchased originally for $40,000 (jB4,000), but the
owner of the establishments could not make them pay, and
for many years the land remained without a tenant. About
18 months ago this same piece of ground was sold for the
sum of $700,000 (£70,000). A piece of land which was
purchased by the Mexican Tramways Companies for $8,000
(£800) only ten years ago would have fetched $80,000
(£8,000) last year, if the Company had been disposed to sell,
which, however, was not the case. Numerous other instances
of such sensational rises in value of Mexico City land could
be given.

The price of public lands in the various States is regulated
by Federal Government every year, and the following prices
are those which are fixed by the Department of Fomento
for the present year. The States are given for easier reference
in alphabetical order, and the prices relate to hectares.
If hectares being equal to about 1 square league, or, say,
4i acres : —

Aguascalientes, $7*00 ; Baja California, $2.00 ; Campeche,
$4.00 ; Chiapas, $4.00 ; Chihuahua, $8.00 ; Coahuila, $8.00 ;
Colima, $6.00; Distrito Federal, $100.00; Durango, $4.00;
Guanajuato, $12.00; Guerrero, $5.00; Hidalgo, $6.00; Jalisco,
$9.00; Mexico, $21.00; Michoacdn, $14.00; Morales, $27.00;
Nuevo Le6n, $3.00 ; Oaxaca, $6.00 ; Fu^bla, $11.00 ; Quer6taro,
$9.00 ; Quintana Boo, $2.00 ; San Luis Potosi, $4.00 ; Sinaloa,
$4.00; Sonora, $4.00; Tabasco, $7.00; Tamaulipas, $3.00;
Territorio de Tepic, $4.00; Tlaxcala, $17.00 ; Veracruz, $12.00 ;
Tucat&n, $4.00; Zacatecas, $3.00.

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CHAPTER LVn

Agriooltural maohinery and implements — San Ltds Potosi Exhibition —
Government encouragement — Bice — Gaoao — Chicle — Vanilla —
Fibrous plants — ^Henequ^ — New tax effects — Zocatan — ^Fniit cnl-
tnre — Bananas — Oranges — Pecan — Pineapples — Foreign importa-
tions — Neglected opportunities — Gnano— Maguey.

With bo conservative a people as Mexican peons to deal with,
any progress in introducing new methods and new machinery
mast necessarily be slow ; nevertheless, some headway has
been made of late in regard to the introduction and popular-
isation of modem agricultural implements and machinery.
No doubt much of the success achieved — ^limited though it be
— ^is due to the Juarez Agricultural School, under the charge
of a Southern Califomian horticulturist, Mr. Elmer Steams,
who has so far proved an exceedingly useful official. An
experimental farm of some 40 acres has been secured from the
Federal Government, and here young men are trained as
farmers, and thoroughly grounded — no pun intended — ^in the
necessary knowledge, and assisted by practical experiment.
Last September an exhibition of agricultural produce took
place at San Luis Potosi, and attracted widespread attention.
The Mexicans evinced considerable curiosity in the various
kinds of agricultural machinery on view, in addition to
specimen exhibits of cotton, corn, wheat, silk, tobacco, hard-
woods, fruits and cattle sent for exhibition from every part of
the Ilepublic. The stock represented included Durhams,
Herefords, Holsteins, Swiss, Jerseys, and Polled Angus
cattle.

The Mexican Government, with a view to the encourage-
ment of agriculture along modem lines, has substantially
reduced the duties upon agricultural maohinery and imple-
ments, by which decree the United States benefit enormously,

VOL. n. 108 84

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194 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

practically all the farm machinery in the Republic coming
thence. Upon one hacienda I have seen a gigantic 25-h.p.
steam-plough, which made 16 furrows at a time, and turned
up about 18 acres of land a day. There is no better agricul-
tural machinery than the American, and by its use the
productiveness of Mexican haciendas is increased by from
40 to 50 per cent.

Rice is grown in many parts of the country — ^I might say
in most States — ^the greatest producers being Mor^los (about
6,660,000 kilos), Michoac&n (4,401,000 kilos), Colima
(2,075,000 kilos), Pu6bla (2,142,000 kilos), and Tepic (688,000
kilos). Other rice -producing States are Campeche, Coa-
huila, Chiapas, Jalisco, Hidalgo, Guerrero, Oaxaca, Quer^taro
and Mexico.

Barley is found in all the States, excepting those of
Campeche, Colima, Guerrero, Tabasco and Tucat&n ; the
total annual production is about 2,150,000 kilos, valued at
$6,000,000 (£500,000). Pu6blo and Mexico supply the most.

Cacao is indigenous to Mexico, and it has been cultivated
from time immemorial. The ancients used to make a popular
drink from it known as ** chocolate," and Cortes, in a letter
to his King (Charles Y.), says : '* He who has drunk his cup
of chocolate travels a whole day without requiring any other
food."

The cacao plant is a slow grower everywhere. In Jamaica,
Tobago and other West Indian Islands, where I have seen it
growing to perfection, it reaches maturity in eight years. In
Mexico it takes 10 years to become a fully-grown tree. It
yields for about 20 years, and then gradually fails. The trees
are planted about 400 to the acre, and each tree should yield
from 6(X) to 1,000 lbs. of the bean. Tabasco derives consider-
able profit from its cacao plantations, where good land can be
picked up for about $8.00 (16s.) an acre, in blocks of from
600 to as little as 100 acres. In Tabasco there are 4 firms
engaged in cacao-planting, in Chiapas 2, and in Veracruz
and Oaxaca 1 each. Colima, Michoac^ and Guerrero also
grow the bean to a more limited extent.

Chicle, a sort of gum exuding from the chico-zapote tree, is
one of the principal products of Mexico. Although no actual
cultivation of the tree takes place, the natives tap the natural

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FIBROUS PLANTS 195

Bources so abundantly that the export of the gum is now of
great importance. To plant the trees, a very little expendi-
ture would be necessary — about 8 centavos (say ^d.) per tree
per annum. Each tree, if planted at a distance of 10 ft. apart,
or, say, 400 to the acre, should yield from 5 to 6 lbs. of the
merchantable gum, when about 8 or 10 years old, and
measuring from 12 to 16 inches in diameter. The gum sells
for 50 centavos (say 1/-) a lb. on the coast.

Vanilla is another profitable cultivation, and has been com-
mercially grown since the time of the Aztecs. The Spaniards
also soon saw its great value, and cultivated it assiduously.
For many years Veracruz — then a Province, but now a State
— supplied practically the whole world with vanilla until Java
and the Bourbon Islands entered the field as competitors.
The greatest supply is now taken by France, Germany, Great
Britain and the United States, following on in the order
named. Even to-day Mexico provides two-thirds of all the
vanilla consumed in the United States, or about 140,000 lbs.,
valued at $640,000, annually. The bean is found in Veracruz,
Oaxaca, Chiapas, Tabasco, Jalisco and Michoac&n. It is sold
by the thousand pods. The average yield of a plantation is
from 10 to 20 pods to the vine, but artificial manuring will
produce more. There is a decided advantage in cultivating
vanilla, inasmuch as com or similar products can be
beneficially grown in conjunction, the one aiding the other
materially. Upon coffee plantations it is often found as an
adjunct

Both American and British capitalists are turning their
attention to the fibrous plants of Mexico, feeling assured that
a profitable business can be created in them. In Oaxaca,
Mr. Theodore Meyers recently was treating for some lands for
the cultivation of pita and ixtle, as well as other fibres
common to Mexico. Henequ^n is, of course, the premier
plant of this character, and has succeeded in establishing
itself as a valuable and permanent product. During the last
25 years, namely from 1881 to 1906, exports of henequ6n,
or sisal, from Progr^so (Tucatdn) have been 9,219,245 bales,
weighing 1,490,951,765 kilos, and valued at $300,988,072
(say £80,098,807). The year 1902 proved the highest record
in actual value, the amount realised being $34,185,275

84—2

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196 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

(£8,418,627). The lowest was in 1889, when the amount
came to $1,024,860 (£102,486).

Last year proved a good one for the industry, since Manilla,
the only serious rival to Tucatto henequ6n, suffered severely
from a shortage of about 100,000 bales.

Last September the State Government of Tuoat&n attempted
to place a tax of one centavo per kilo upon the production of
henequ6n, but a perfect storm of protest was the outcome on
the part of every grower and merchant in the State. Tucat&n
has no natural resources, and henequ6n is its sole source of
wealth. The price of the fibre has also gone down consider-
ably of late, and the rate of living is excessively high compared
with other States in the Republic.

No doubt the monopoly hitherto possessed by Tucat&n in
the henequto trade has aroused the ire and the jealousy of
other States in Mexico, and the most bitter opposition has
also been organised and financed from the United States.
Their feelings had not been assuaged by the comparative
failure of the Manilla crop, upon which they depended to
counteract the Tucat&n supply. It was, therefore, with great
satisfaction that the United States witnessed the threatened
discomfiture of their Mexican competitors. The State Govern-
ment seems to have made a very great mistake in introducing
such a tax, and already Yucat&n is suffering severe financial
embarrassments, several bankruptcies having lately taken
place and a general air of depression prevailing.

Among other valuable merchantable plants found in Mexico,
and which form part of the Republic's continually augment-
ing export-trade, may be mentioned zocatan, a root found in
many parts of the country growing wild ; oleaginous plants,
such as the castor-bean, the pea-nut, the cocoa-nut, sesame,
linseed, etc., etc. The medicinal plants include some 288
varieties; there are 14 dyewoods; numerous fodder-plants,
such as pari, guinea-grass, alfalfa, and trifolium. Of tan-
ning-plants there exist several varieties, the annual value of
the tannic-acid extracted being about $49,050 (say JC4,905).
Chiapas goes in extensively for the cultivation of the yucca
plant, or shrub, which grows to a height of 4 feet, with from
6 to 10 tubers to each plant, weighing from 1 to 12 lbs. each.
These tubers yield starch in large quantities, and additionally

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FRUIT CULTIVATION 197

provide food for both men and cattle. Sugar-beet, ginger and
other spioes grow wild in various parts of the country, and
if properly cultivated would undoubtedly yield handsome
profits upon the outlay.

With all her richness of soil, beneficence of climate and
abundance of labour, Mexico has not yet become the great
fruit-producing country that one would have expected. In
some respects she is, indeed, lamentably backward, for
instance in her banana production, which is both poor and
insu£Gicient. Last year, when violent hurricanes seriously
damaged the banana-groves of Jamaica and Cuba, would
have been Mexico's opportunity to enter the United States
market, which just then was bare of fruit. But the psycho-
logical moment passed unsnatched, and, as we know, occano
agre ofertu/r, facile amittitur.

At one time it was thought that the United Fruit Co.,
which already has a practical monopoly of all the banana-
trade of the Carribbean Sea, would have selected Mexico as
an additional and always reliable produce-field ; but, so far,
nothing has come of the suggestion. One other American
firm, however, has lately acquired extensive lands in the
Veracruz district, purposing to cultivate bananas for the
United States market and run a special line of steamers
between the States and Mexican Gulf ports, as well as
manufacturing the bye-products. The Herrandura Fruit Co.
are planting several hundred additional acres in the Tamau-
lipas State in bananas, adopting the best grades of Jamaica
fruit. The Mexican Tropical Fruit Co., a San Francisco
concern, with a capital of $500,000 (£50,000) has 1,500 acres
in the Banderos Bay district, a short distance from the Pacific
port of Las Feiias, devoted entirely to the cultivation of
bananas. Near the port of San Bias (Sinaloa State) an
American Company established a banana plantation some
few years ago, which has been successful from the first crop.
Two fruit-steamers now ply regularly between San Bias and
San Francisco, carrying the produce of this Company one
way, and freight for Mexico the other. Messrs. Lujan Brothers
in 1905 acquired an immense tract of land in the State of
Chihuahua, which they have devoted to banana-growing, and,
as I understand, with success. Dr. C. M. Harrison, of Mexico

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198 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

City, has some extensive acres on the Panaco River, Tamau-
lipas, and is supplying the Califomian markets with bananas.
He has also a large and profitable plantation at Veracruz, and
he finds that the fruit can be grown and shipped thence to
California more quickly than from any other part of the
world.

The United Fruit Co. handled in 1906 85,489,586 bunches
of bananas, as compared with 80,296,709 bunches in 1905,
or an increase in one year of 6,142,827 bunches. A very
small proportion of this supply, however, came from the Gulf
coast of Mexico.

Oranges, which could be grown to perfection in Mexico,
are for the most part neglected, and their proper cultivation
but little understood. The fruit matures two full months
before the Califomian, and if efforts were made it could
precede the latter on the New York market by many weeks.
The lemon crop extends throughout the year, and can be
gathered every month. Mr. W. W. Hopps is cultivating
oranges scientifically on his hacienda at Las Feiiitas, about
a :mile from the Port of Tampico, and has expended some
£5,000 upon laying out and planting groves. Some excellent
oranges are also grown in -the State of Jalisco, especially in
the Atotonilco district; while Yantepec, in the State of
Mor61os, is rapidly acquiring success as a producing centre.
It has already despatched several shipments to the United
States. The Moctezuma Orange and Banana Co. is an
American corporation having head-offices in Salt Lake City,
with a capital of $100,000 (£10,000), and owning some
1,200 acres of good fruit-land on the Tamesi River, State of
Tamaulipas. There are 800 acres in bananas, and 200 in
oranges, all the produce going to the United States. The
Mutual Planters* Co. own extensive lands near Tamos,
Tamaulipas, the produce going principally to Chicago, where
most of the stockholders of the Company reside.

In Northern Mexico the fruit-growing experiments have
afforded great satisfaction to the entrepreneurs. Within a
few years this part of the country should become a heavy
producer of fruit of all kinds. In the neighbourhood of
Gomez Falacio (Durango) some of the finest grapes that I
have ever seen are grown. Several hundreds of thousands

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Scenic Route on the Central Railway.

vState ok Tamai'MPAs— Surf l)aihingat La Birra, T.impico.

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FBUIT CULTIVATION 199

of vines are now planted there, and apparently are doing
exceedingly well.

As to nuts, the Mexican pecan has long been a favourite
with people in the United States. The fruit is somewhat
inferior to the Texan variety, but, on the other hand, it
matures a month earlier. Sometimes as many as 60 car-
loads of pecan-nuts are shipped from Mexico to the United
States in one season, but last year the crop in Nuevo Leon
and Coahuila proved a failure. The great majority of the
trees bore no fruit at all, the shortage being estimated at
about 400,000 kilos ; and instead of 60 cars being despatched
to the United States, only 1 was sent. The best fruit comes
from the district around Monterey, in the State of Nuevo
Le6n.

Figs are prolifically grown in the hot country, and the
business done in the North in the dried variety is consider-
able. Last year a parasite in the form of a small butterfly-
egg appeared, and did a good deal of injury. The Mexican
fig is very delicious, and very cheap. Strawberries may be
purchased all the year round, and travellers over the Mexican
Central Railway are offered at the Irapuato Station heavy
baskets of the fruit at anything from $1.00 down to 25
centavos (2s. to 6d.). The appearance of the fruit is every-
thing that could be desired, but the quality is disappointing.
It has little or no flavour, and cannot be compared to the
British variety such as comes from the North Devon straw-
berry-beds.

Pineapples grow luxuriantly, but little attention is devoted
to their proper cultivation. Strangely enough it is only
within the past few years that the fruit has been consumed
by the Mexicans, nearly all the produce hitherto having been
shipped abroad. Nowadays there is a good and increasing
local demand. The fruit fetches anything between 6 centavos
(1^.) and 76 centavos (Is. 6d.), according to the size and
season.

The importation of such fruits as apples, pears, peaches,
raisins, grapes and walnuts is steadily decreasing, principally
owing to the heavy freight charges, the fruit arriving by
'' express." The increase in the local supply from the many
Mormon and Boer colonies and the more enterprising Mexican

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200 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

farmers also accountB for the considerable f alling-ofif. Ninety-
five per cent of the imported fraits come from California, and
the remainder from Colorado. It is anticipated that in a very
short while the local producers will supply the entire Mexican
market, and no further foreign importation wiU be needed.

In common with many other close observers, I was some-
what surprised to find huge tracks of country lying quite
adjacent to the City of Mexico, and in the famous fertile Valley
of that name, almost neglected. Beyond several thousands of
acres of the maguey plant, which would appear to fiourish
everywhere and anywhere, very little trace of agriculture of
any kind is to be seen. The fact that most, if not all, of this
land is impregnated with alkali seems to be an objection in
the minds of the owners to putting it to any useful purpose.
Its appearance, to the ignorant in agricultural matters, is de-
cidedly against it, being dry, sandy and possessing little or no
soil. But a very little experience would have taught that
much of this very unattractive-looking land, with its alkali,
if properly drained, could grow several crops of sugar and
beet, and, above all, alfalfa in quantity — perhaps six or eight
crops annually. The alkali is not such an insuperable objec-
tion as many suppose, the properties being a ready solution
in water (and thus easily drained away), the formation with
other acids of salts, absorption of moisture from the air, and,
in a pure state, the performance of the duties of a corrosive
poison. Alkali in the organic form of alkaloids is a very
valuable discovery.

Last year the Government granted a concession to M. 0. F.
Archer for the exploitation of guano on the Areas and Arenas
Islands, in the Gulf of Mexico, for a period of ten years.
The concessionnaire will pay the Federal Government 76 c.
(Is. 6d.) per ton upon l^e guano extracted, and also the
customary export duties. No doubt the enterprise eventually
will prove profitable, since the shipments of the guano should
be easy and inexpensive, while the demand for artificial
manures of all kinds in Mexico, although not very large at
present, must become so as soon as more modern methods of
cultivation are generally adopted.

Although the maguey plant is found elsewhere (I believe in
some portions of the United States, for instance), it is only in

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THE MAGUEY PLANT 201

Mexico that the plant grows to perfection, and in vast quantities.
Passengers travelling in almost any portion of the Republic
are struck with the millions and millions of these graceful-
looking plants (very similar in appearance to the cactus plants
cultivated in European countries for ornamental purposes),
which stretch away from one side of the horizon to the other
in endless serried ranks, planted at precise mathematical
distances (about 9 ft. apart from one another) » and all at
various stages of growth.

There are no fewer than 126 different species of this one
plant, the best known being the mescal (or tequila) and pulque
producing species. It grows abundantly upon the plains and
at elevations of from 7,000 to 8,000 ft. above the sea-level.
Intoxicating liquors are by no means the only purpose to
which this useful plant can be put, for as many as 40 different
articles are made from it, such as paper from the pulp, twine
from the fibres, needles from the sharp tips of the leaves,
and roofs for the natives' huts. A fine kind of papyrus was
(and still is) also made, the ancient Mexicans having thoroughly
understood the art of preparing such material ; and that it was
of an excellently enduring character is proved by the fresh-
ness which specimens made 8(X) and 1,(X)0 years ago present
to-day.

The pulque is the fermented juice which is extracted from
the maguey plant, and the process followed is extremely
interesting, but scarcely conducive to a great longing for a
taste of the sickly-looking compound produced. I have often
watched the Mexicans at this — ^their favourite occupation, next
to killing and skinning something — and as the methods fol-
lowed are precisely the same in every case (as I have before
observed there is little individuality about a Mexican peon
or anything which he does), a single description will suffice.

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CHAPTER LVm

Immigration — Government offers — ^Lack of response — ^Former colonization
efforts— Class of settler being attracted — Land available — Boomers —
A warning— Good and bad — Peasant proprietors — How they live —
Peons and politics — Prices of land — Japanese and Chinese colonists —
Mormons — Boers — Bussian settlement — ^Viljoen family — Undesirables
from the East — Veracruz their favourite State — Danger ahead.

Although at the present time the Mexican Government is
making little or no special efforts to attract immigrants, the
natural flow of foreigners, although slow, is not unpromising.
In past times inducements were held out to immigrants, but
these were only slightly understood, and but little availed of.
In 1827, when the country was just commencing to breathe
again after a long and exhausting struggle with the revolu-
tionists, the Government of the day brought in a law known
as ^' prosperidad general," which, as its name implies, was
meant to help along everybody and everything. However, the
'^ prosperidad general " lingered long on the way, and so far
from others coming into the country in their thousands, as
the Government fondly hoped, those who were already in and
could not before get out, seized the opportunity of peace being
declared to depart.

In the year 1846 further official efforts to attract settlers
were made, and the Minister of Foreign Affairs, Sr. Job6
M. La Fragua, in presenting a plan for legislation to Congress,
went so far as to declare that ** the neglect of colonisation in
the past had been a crime of high treason." Still the people
did not come; nor did they arrive in any larger numbers
when, in the days of the Empire, Sefior Bobles submitted to
Congress further plans for attracting immigrants; nor yet
when, in 1868, SeiLor Balcorel, nor in 1877 when SeiLor
Polacio, promulgated further and alluring announcements of
what the Government was prepared to do.

202

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IMMIGRATION 208

The colonisation law of Mexico, which was promulgated on
December 15th, 1888, contains some 4 chapters and 81 articles.
The provisions are very complete, and on the whole scrupu-
lously fair and just, such, for instance, as exclusion from
military service, exemption from all taxes except municipal,
and exemption from all duties upon articles of consumption
not produced in the country, as well as upon agricultural
implements, tools, machinery, etc., and all household furni-
ture and animals intended for breeding purposes.

It may appear remarkable that, in view of such induce-
ments, colonists have failed to arrive in Mexico in anything
like large numbers. It seemed that everything which a
Government could legitimately do in the way of inducement
was done; and without going into fuller details as to its
efforts, I may say that the conditions were exceptionally
favourable in those days, as they are generous in these. No
doubt, 40 or 50 years ago, those to whom the appeal was
made were thoroughly scared at the horrors which had gone
on for several years during the revolution and the brief
days of the Empire, horrors which lacked nothing in grue-
someness in their narration ; while all the free land offered
was, and still is, for matter of that, situated many miles from
any railway communication, and the proximity of so many
Indians, who were far more numerous than was made out to
be the case by interested parties, made a settlement of whites
anything but attractive. Even to this day colonisation in
Mexico is not in a satisfactory state so far as free settlement
is concerned ; but, on the other hand, every day witnesses a
number of well-to-do foreigners and capitalists coming into
the country, many of them to remain as permanent residents,
and to settle down to trade and commerce with seriousness
and determination.

Several French, Italian, German, Mormon and Boer
colonies have been formed in Mexico, and, on the whole, may
be said to be doing well. Those who have located in the
State of Veracruz, some of whom were established a quarter
of a century back, are now fairly prosperous ; while among
the Mormons, of whom several thousand exist, especially in
the North of the Republic, prosperity is certainly attained.
Yet a third colony, known as '' Blalock," settled in the State

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204 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

of Tamanlipas and consisting of some 620 families, are doing
extremely well, owning between them some 85,000 acres
of fairly productive and remunerative land. All that has
been accomplished, and this is considerable, has been effected
in little more than three years, and an air of general content-
ment prevails in the little community. The colony itself is
located a considerable distance from railway communication,
the nearest station being about 30 miles distant, which naturally
means great expense and inconvenience in transportation,
postal communication, etc.

It is a matter of history that in 1908 the Mexican Govern-
ment offered the hospitality of this country to the dissatisfied
Boers, who were anxious to leave the Transvaal and the
Orange Colony when these became British possessions.
General Snyman came here to spy out the land, and finally,
with the assistance of the Governor of the State of Chihuahua,
he selected some 88,000 acres of fine ranch land in the vicinity
of Santa Rosalia, Chihuahua. Negotiations were also entered
into, but were never consummated, to acquire a further
825,000 acres near Jiminez, a short distance away. Efforts
to establish Boer Colonies along the Yaqui River, in the State
of Sonora, and in the vicinity of Tampico, on the Gulf of
Mexico, were also unsuccessful, for the Boer is an uncertain
and discontented kind of person.

Having travelled considerably in and about the Isthmus of
Tehuantepec, the country in which are located most of the
Colonies (outside those which I have mentioned above), it
may be desirable to say a few words upon the amoimt of
business done, the kind of life that is led, and the sort of
people — natives — that one finds there. The States of Oaxaca
and Veracruz, through which the Isthmus of Tehuantepec
runs, have already formed the subject of a most outrageous
"boom," engineered in New York and Chicago some three
years ago, when, as the result of unconscionable '* pufi&ng "
and advertising, a number of " agricultural " and '' planta-
tion " companies were formed with absurdly inflated capitals,
setting forth possibilities which never existed, and which
under no conceivable conditions ever could exist, but which,
nevertheless, served their purpose in attracting the dollars of
the more credulous investors. Fortunately no British capital

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RUBBER COMPANIES 205

— or at worst very little — foand its way into this financial
sink. It is now possible to say that out of some 160 different
plantation companies which were floated and subscribed by
the investing public, scarcely one-tenth have paid a single
cent to their proprietors. Others, which might have returned
a modest dividend, were ruined by ignorance of management,
extravagance and fraud ; it was a sort of South Sea Bubble
over again, but on a smaller scale, sufficiently serious and
disastrous, however, to give a bad name to Mexican planta-
tion schemes and to cause investors generally to button up
their pockets tightly whenever a proposition of this kind is
made to them.

There is reason to believe that attempts will be made
shortly to trade upon the credulity of British investors in
regard to the rubber-growing districts of Mexico, and in relation
to this I would warn my readers earnestly against relying in
the slightest degree upon the glowing prospectuses and reports
emanating from the same sources. This much, at least, may
be depended upon. Of the many rubber estates established
and producing in Mexico to-day, scarcely a dozen among them
are paying a profit ! What they may do in the future I do
not know, nor, indeed, can anyone say. But it should be
sufficient for the inteUigent and discriminating investor to
know that there are to-day, as I have said, hardly a dozen
among the numerous rubber plantations in the Tehuantepec
district of Mexico which are yielding a legitimate profit to
their owners. Where, as is frequently the case, rubber-
growing is combined with sugar, cocoa, bananas and other
tropical produce, a different condition of affairs is prevalent ;
but the rubber prospectus-promoter says little or nothing
about these products, because, as a rule, he does not possess
— or is at all likely to possess — them. Rubber, by reason of
its present high price, attracts the gambler and the speculator,
but the investor should remember that producing-estates
cannot be purchased ''cheaply" unless there is something
radically wrong with them, such as disease among the trees,
difficulty of securing labour, long distance from a railway or
shipping port, or a top-heavy capitalisation. Several rubber
companies in Mexico, some situated in the neighbourhood of
the Tuxpan Valley, Veracruz, are doing well at the present

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206 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

time 80 far as actual sales to New Tork markets are concerned ;
bat for one or other, or all, of the reasons I have given above,
the profits are insafficient to give any return worth considera-
tion to the proprietors.

The Northern European settler who goes to the hot country
of Mexico — la terra caliente — must be prepared to face many
disadvantages, even though he meets with lovely scenery,
cheap living, a pleasant populace, and bountiful harvests.
Anyone arriving from North Britain, for instance, to estab-
lish himself upon the Isthmus of Tehuantepeo, in Veracruz,
Guerrero, Tepic, or any other of the sub-tropical and tropical
States of Mexico, must disabuse his mind of living a perfectly
ideal life. In the first place he will find irritating hot winds
blowing at certain times of the year, day and night, bringing
myriads of flies, mosquitoes, and other winged nuisances, and
no relief from the heat; a danger in drinking any kind of
strong liquors (whisky in small quantities and only occa-
sionally being possible), a lack of social attractions, and at
first a general lassitude, which to the strong and vigorous
son of the North is a little alarming. Against these draw-
backs, however, he has many advantages, and if cheapness of
living be any inducement he will certainly find it in Southern
Mexico. House rent even in the towns is low, but on the
plantations it is practically nothing at all, for one lives
almost entirely out of doors, and needs neither firing, much
clothing, nor any great quantity of meat. Freedom from
disease cannot, of course, be guaranteed in a land where
malaria continually lurks, but provided one abstains from
*' the drink " — ^the curse of so many who come out to a new
and a hot country — maintains a certain amount of physical
exercise, and rigorously observes the laws of cleanliness and
disinfection, even an attack of malaria need not prove dan-
gerous, and one becomes inured to its visits in a very short
space of time. This at least has been the experience of men
who have lived, and still live, in the tropics of Mexico, and
has been my own when sojourning in every torrid zone of the
four quarters of the world.

In perhaps no part of the globe has the question of peasant
proprietorship been more thoroughly tested and proved than
in Mexico — on the uplands as well as in the lowlands; No

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PEASANT PROPMETORSHIP 207

matter how poor he may look to the eye or be, as a matter
of fact, the Mexican peasant is a "landowner" of some
kind. Every one has a patch, small or large, of land, and
cultivates it — producing, possibly, barely sufficient to keep
body and soul together, but forming his one worldly possession,
which nothing would induce him to give up. At certain periods
of the year every Mexican peon leaves his employment, no
matter how great be the inducements held out to him to
remain — to till his little piece of ground and to sow the seeds
for the coming season. In some of the busy mining districts,
such as Guanajuato and Oaxaca, I have known the labour
managers to offer their workmen twice and thrice the value
of their as yet unsown crops if they would remain ; but they
have stubbornly refused, and have gone forth into the fields,
just as their forefathers have done for generations past, and
have sown their seeds in the same old primitive manner, with
the same old wooden implements, and have then gone straight
back to their former employment until the time to reap has
come, when the same exodus recurs.

Experience of the Mexican peasant proprietor certainly
proves the contention that possession of land encourages the
growth of a sturdy and independent class of men. No one,
however, could describe the average peon as '^ thrifty," for
he is a spender of everything that he makes, a gambler, and
very often a drunkard. If he is not in the hands of the
money-lenders, it is because no capitalist can be found foolish
enough to lend him money ; he is content to live from hand
to mouth, saving nothing, learning nothing, shut out from all
ambition or prospects of bettering his condition, a victim to
rank superstition and possessing the fidelity, perhaps, but
none of the intelligence of the average dog.

In many European countries, and especially in Glermany,
experience has shown that the creation of peasant proprietor-
ship has been the means of keeping the labourers on the soil,
thus helping to solve the social question. In Mexico there
is no ** social question," and the peasant proprietor has no
desire to leave the soil, which is his dearest, and, in fact, his
only, possession. The peon cares little or nothing for politics,
and understands them even less ; so that his presence has no
effect whatever upon the welfare or the reverse of the existing

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208 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

condition of Government. The system of small holdings
certainly does not tend to small families, as, I believe, has
been cited in the case of peasant proprietorship in some
European coontries. The peon's family is usually a very
numerous one ; and as they cost nothing to keep or to clothe,
and are made to work in the field almost as soon as they
can toddle, they are found profitable in the extreme. They
live with the pigs and the goats and the chickens in a rough
bamboo hut, open to the four winds of heaven, eat the
eternal tortiUa^ a flat cake made of crushed mealies, seasoned
with hot peppers and onions, and wear the same simple
and cheap cotton garments (generally of native make) from
year's end to year's end. They have strong constitutions,
and seldom fall sick. They commence their daily toil at
6 a.m., and continue it, with the interval of an hour for the
midday meal, until 6 p.m., and sometimes until long after
sunset. As a rule they are of a lively disposition, respectful,
courteous, and even cheerful, submissive except when in
drink, and easily handled. As in almost all Catholic coun-
tries, they are entirely in the hands of the priests, who levy
heavy tolls '' for the Church," and thus leave them abjectly
poor. Out of the 865 days of the year, the Mexican peons
usually work for less than 200, the rest being devoted to saints
and ^pnhlic fiestas, which but few of them will consent to forego.
A large amount of good land, suitable for colonists, still
remains available, and can be picked up from $1 (2s.) to
$5 (10s.) per acre. Low " home-seekers' rates " are in effect
from all the largest cities of the North of America to Mexico,
but little or no attempt to secure immigrants upon a progres-
sive or systematic scale is being made. It is surprising that
the railway companies do not exert themselves to this end,
since they must, to a great extent, benefit. To induce
colonists to come to Mexico in anything like numbers, it will
be necessary to employ suitable colonisation agents, men who
should be in receipt of substantial salaries, so as to make them
proof against land-sharks and fraudulent companies. These
agents should be instructed to exercise great discrimination in
the selection of men and women as colonists, since experiments
up till now in artificial immigration have proved the reverse
of successful in many cases. Many of the contractors and

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COLONISATION 209

agents have recruited from the dregs of cities, like Naples,
whence thousands of unemployed — and unemployable — ^have
been swept into the net, many of them proving, upon investiga-
tion, to be broken-down clerks, socialistic artisans, and drones
of the community.

The largest percentage of immigrants coming to Mexico at
present are Japiemese and Chinese, who are kept out of the
I7.8.A. by the Exclusion Act. These so-called ** undesirables "
settle in Mexico and, in most instances, make altogether excel-
lent citizens. Mormons also are in most cases very successful.
It is sought to induce some 12,000 of these to leave their
present quarters near Salt Lake City to settle in Sinaloa, upon
the territory owned by the Sinalao Land and Development Co.

Veracruz would appear to be a favourite locality for colonists,
where, indeed, farm labour is sorely needed. Unfortunately,
again, many of those who arrive there, especially a large class
of Arabs, Turks and Syrians, are by no means adapted to
agricultural labour, and naturally prove more a source of
trouble than of benefit. All that these Easterners seem to hope
for is to establish themselves in the dry-goods trade, or hire
themselves out as bar-keepers and pedlars of cheap laces,
calicoes, hosiery, toilet-articles, common pocket cutleiy, brass
jewellery and otiier cheap and trashy articles. On the other
hand, quite a large number of desirable colonists from Texas
and other parts of the U.S.A. have lately come into Veracruz,
and will no doubt prove a leavening element, and make a
success of their venture.

Many colonists who have been induced to come to Mexico
have complained very bitterly of the rates which are charged
by some railway companies, which, instead of working hand-in-
hand with the transatlantic steamships, seem to offer a great
deal of opposition and hostility, which are visited upon the
'shoulders of the innocent immigrants. For instance, some
railways allow the steamship agents to sell tickets at *' colonist-
rates " in Europe all the year round ; but these same tickets
are only honoured in Mexico for a limited and strictly-defined
period, no knowledge of which is communicated to tiie immi-
grant until too late to be of any service. On the other hand,
when the colonists do know of the stringent terms, they
refrain from purchasing tickets until the low travel-rates are

VOL. II. 86

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210 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

in effect, and then they go to Mexico with a rush, overcrowd-
ing the steamers at one period, and leaving them practically
empty at another.

Among the most recent immigrants who have arrived in
Mexico are a number of Italians, who are settling near Lake
Chapala. They mostly come from the rural classes of Italy,
and have been induced to settle in Mexico by Sefior Mercurio,
a compatriot, who is a very keen enthusiast upon the subject
of immigration, and is thought to have a sort of commission
from the King of Italy. A large body of the best class of
Russians have lately settled in the Nuevas Casas Grandes
country. State of Chihuahua, the settlement consisting of 200
families, each member of which contributes a fixed sum per
month from his or her wages, which go towards the purchase
of a 15,000-acre tract of land, situated 25 miles north of
Ensenada.

The Boer colony, to which I have already referred, is com-
posed for the most part of men who are naturally splendid
agriculturalists. They have received free grants from the
State Government, and among them are living the father and
mother of General Viljoen, who help to form a total of four
generations of that family. In order to do them honour, the
former (Governor of Chihuahua (Senor Enrique Creel) stood as
godfather to the latest Viljoen baby, bom before his departure.
The Boers in Mexico are exceedingly hard-working, and there-
fore form the type of immigrant needed.

The Japanese immigration agent recently completed arrange-
ments with the Gx)vemment of the State of Colima for the
introduction of 600 families of Japanese agriculturalists who
have settled on land in this State. The Federal Government
has granted a concession to the Mexican Land and Colonisa-
tion Co. and to the Lower Californian Development Co.,
authorising them to promote agricultural colonies in the
Peninsula of Lower California, the intention being to estab*
lish at least 160 families within the zone reaching from the
boundary-line with the U.S.A. to 100 kilometres into Mexican
territory. The Mexican Agricultural Land Co., which is an
American organisation, has introduced several colonists upon
its lands, which are located at Agua Fria, in the State of
Veracruz. These are altogether a superior class of settler,.

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UNDESIRABLE IMMIGRANTS 211

being possessed of some means, and several have become pmr-
chasers of small properties in the district. While Veracruz is,
as already said, the favourite state for immigrants into Mexico,
there is not lacking a certain danger regarding the indiscrimi-
nate recruiting which is going on there. Turks and Syrians
are pouring-in in unrestricted numbers, and the conditions
prevailing demand the closest attention, as well as the utmost
intelligence and efficiency, upon the part of the authorities
in order to prevent any retrograde movement from taking
place.

85—2

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CHAPTEB LIX

The peon — His evolution and emancipation — His character and habita —
Former and present wages — Peon women — Home life — Characteristios
— ^Labour questions — Demand and supply — Paucity of masons, brick-
layers and carpenters — Socialistic teaching effect — President and
strikers — Central Bailway troubles — Orizaba strikes — Labour unions
in Mexico — Their teaching and probable effects.

Onob upon a time the Mexican labourer was aboat the hardest
worked, the worst paid and the most unhappy creature under
the sun. According to the records which exist his lot was
only a little less sad, and no more hopeful, than that of the
animal. Under Spanish masters he was made to work in
the mines like the galley slave or modem Russian political
prisoner. He was whipped unmercifully when he objected
and shot relentlessly if he rebelled. For close upon 800
years he laboured thus, scarcely calling his soul his own.
Then came his emancipation, for with the banishment of the
Spanish Crown and the breaking of the priestly power the
Mexican peon was, at a blow, freed from his enemies.

But did he respond? Alas, no. The three centuries of
oppression, physical and mental, had broken his spirit,
blunted his intellect and destroyed his self-respect The
reaction was too violent, and it is scarcely surprising that
the poor brute-man should have failed to realise the new
and untried strength bestowed upon him. ^'He hath no
power that hath not power to use," says Bailey, and this
was the case with the Mexican peon. To-day he is a different
being, but his transformation is not wholly for the better.
He is apt to rush to the opposite extreme, to imagine himself
more important than he is, to scoff at legitimate authority
and forget the bitter lessons of his adversity. From blind
obedience he is invited to league against his employers ; to

213

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THE PEON'S ADVANCEMENT 218

indulge in the ezoitement but also the dangers of olass warfare ;
to depart from, rather than approach near to true social con-
ditions, and to indulge in specialisation of his own particular
interests, as opposed to those of the community at large. All of
this is due to the specious and deceptive teaching of the Socialist
agitators who find ready listeners and unthinking supporters
in the emancipated peon. At the same time he has improved
as an artisan, and is a more potent factor in production.
He has become more intelligent in some things, but more
arrogant; more skilful as a worker but less valuable as a
servant, and therefore less useful as a citizen. The change
which has affected the working man all over the world — in
England, in Germany, in France and in the United States —
has not passed Mexico by. A distinguished French writer
once designated the British workman as ** one of the filthiest
upon the Continent," and no doubt the description was true.
The same has been said of the German and of the Frenchman,
but it would be as equally false of the same class of workers
to-day. The Mexican has improved also, if but little in his
personal appearance, much in his practical skill.

A decade ago the peon did not average more than three or at
the most four days' work out of the seven. To-day he works
every day but 9k fiesta. He was formerly paid about 87 centavos
(say 7|d.) a day. Now he receives a minimum of $1.00, or
28., and often as much as $8.00 (6s. Od.) a day and extra for
overtime. Instead of being a drug in the market he is at a
pre^iium, and instead of being treated as a creature rather
inferior to a dog, he is carefully protected by the Govern-
ment, the manufacturing classes and the mining community,
all of whom are — or shortly will be-— competing for his services.

The typical Mexican peon is short and stocky in figure,
swarthy of countenance, black of hair and happy of dis-
position. In his loose-fitting, baggy white-cotton clothing,
his high steeple-crowned hat and his dirty leather sandals,
he does not present a particularly attractive appearance.
Probably from the day he was bom his shaggy locks have
never known a comb ; his body is but once a year laved in
water, and then on Saint John the Baptist's Day. He is a
spendthrift and a bom gambler, a happy-go-luc)^, careless,
merry creature, with no care but that of his soul, which he

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214 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY]

thinks of day and night, morning, noon and eve, Bacrifioing his
personal comfort, his present needs and his scanty earnings
to propitiate his patron saint and to satisfy the injunctions
of his priest. Withal the peon is a courteous gentleman at
heart, quaint and amusing in his conversation, witty, ready
and shrewd, as prompt with his last centavo to help a friend
as he is with his machete to resent a wrong or avenge an
insult. He is a devoted father and a more or less faithful
husband ; a good son and a loyal soldier when called upon to
defend his country. He can work like a Trojan if encouraged,
and shirk like a Hottentot if bullied or unfairly blamed. He
is fundamentally honourable in settling his debts, but an
unconscionable thief when any favourable opportunity for
pilfering presents itself. In a word, he is a curious mixture
of the good and the bad, the attractive and the repellent, the
trustworthy and the unreliable.

The peon woman is outwardly, at least, more cleanly than
a man. She is a good housewife, an affectionate mother and
a confirmed gossip. No matter how humble her home — and
most peon homes are extremely humble — she loves it and
clings to it, wandering not far away and ever ready to obey
the call of her better-half or extend a graceful hospitality to
the stranger. She is an enthusiastic but somewhat slovenly
cook, with a native fondness for grease and hot spices ; she
evinces very little desire to exceed the narrow limits of her
daily life, but displays a feminine fondness for fripperies
and fallals and a love of hoarding the heavy, fat silver
dollars. Many a peon household is saved from starvation
by the thriftiness of the housewife, when the lord and
master has expended his last centavo and pledged his last
possession to gamble on the beloved cock-fight or bull-ring
chances.

Everywhere the demand for Mexican labour is being met
with, and the supply is continually growing less. In Mexico
City there is and has been for some years past a great
shortage of stone and brick masons, carpenters, painters and
other skilled labour of the building trade, a scarcity which
seems destined to continue for a considerable time. In agri-
cultural and mining circles the same condition prevails, in
spite of wages for labourers having materially increased of

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GENERAL DIAZ AND STRIKES 215

late. At certain seasonB of the year the railroads and cotton-
fields of Texas absorb many thousands of Mexican labourers
by reason of the high wages offered ; but the men invariably
come back at the beginning of the cold season in much about
the same way as do migratory birds. With the arrival of the
first cold weather they swarm over the border, and remain
in the Republic until the warmth once more attracts them
to the northern regions.

In spite of his enjoying a state of prosperity hitherto
unknown, the Mexican labourer falls a ready victim to the
wiles of the Socialist agitator. During the past 2 years the
labour question has become exceedingly acute in Mexico
owing to the number of strikes— some without any sufficient
provocation — ^which have taken place. On more than one
occasion there have been appeals to GsBsar in the person of
the President of the Republic, who, with his usual patience
and customary fairness, has gone iuto the questions at issue
between the men and their masters. The President entertains
very broad views on the labour question ; but while favouring
neither side, he adheres undeviatingly to his programme of
'' peace with order." He has displayed no antipathy to the
many labour unions which exist to-day, in spite of the bad
efifeot which they have had upon the attitude of the working
man generally. General Diaz has laid down the dictum that the
Unions are free to execute their own afEairs, but must not and
shall not attempt to overstep their privileges. He holds out
no hope that they can take part in the councils of the cor-
porations, nor will he permit them to prevent workmen not of
their membership from applying for or accepting employment.
The various attempts which have been made to start a minor
civil war under the pretext of a strike have been promptly
nipped in the bud. There can be no question that there would
be a serious setting-back of the clock were the (Govern-
ment weakly to allow agitators free and unfettered scope in
the country. Any attempts to introduce the methods which
have been permitted elsewhere would stir up in Mexico wide-
spread trouble, the end of which it would be extremely
difficult to foresee. The right of men to refuse to work or to
accept wages which they thiuk too low has never been inter-
fered with; but the protection of the Government is only

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216 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

thrown around those who maintain a peaceful attitude, and
refrain from disturbing public order.

Several strikes were started last year, one of the worst
being upon the Central Railway. The Railway authorities
were absolutely right in their contentions as to paying the
best men — whether Americans or Mexicans — the highest
wages, and refused to concede the demands of their employees
that all were to be paid alike at a certain rate whether skilled
or unskilled. The 17 different demands made by the strikers
were denied in every case. It was in regard to this strike
that the President intervened, and, after hearing both sides
of the case, he told the men that their attitude was not the
best for the welfare of the country, advised them to go back
to their work, and at the same time suggested to the Com-
pany several points for their consideration, which they
promptly adopted. The men returned to work, and both
sides expressed themselves as satisfied with the decision of
the Chief Executive.

Numerous strikes accompanied by violence, and, I regret to
fifty* by several deaths, occurred last year and again this
spring in the cotton-manufacturing districts of Orizaba; to
these disturbances I have made fuller reference elsewhere.
While the labour outlook is by no means as peaceful as might
be desired, and while the chcmce of trouble which the Labour
Unions can effect has not been materially lessened, the
position has to some extent improved. It was scarcely to
be expected that in the widespread ramifications of labour
troubles all over the world Mexico would be overlooked, but
with a firm and vigorous Government to deal with, the
agitators have less chance of a sweeping victory than in other
countries.

In Mexico to-day the workman has not to contend with the
impersonal form of mastership assumed by joint-stock com-
panies, trusts, rings, directorates or other combinations, and
no such necessity exists for combination among themselves
as is the case in the United States for instance. Nevertheless
labour organisation in Mexico is not wholly evil, more es-
pecially as the dominant note is, at least outwardly, the need
of education. The broadening horizon of the working man
in Mexico is a consummation devoutly to be wished, and

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MEXICAN WORKING MEN 217

neither the anthoritieB nor the great majority of employers
could have an objection to a propaganda which has this in
view. The working man of Mexico has yet to be taught the
discipline of character, the evils of intemperance, and the
importance of saving and economy. From what I have seen
he is likely to take these lessons to heart sooner or later —
probably later; any startling advance in his ethical or his
intellectual equipment must not, therefore, be looked for at
once.

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CHAPTER LX

Mexican trade with the United States — CompariBon with British— ImportB
and exports for 1906-1907— American methods— Consular critidsms—
Coal and oil imports— Foxnitnre and customs duties— Fianoft— Cotton
manufactures — Cement and foreign competition — ^Improving the
occasion when visiting Mexico — Mail-order business and its profits.

It is perhaps only according to the laws of compensation that
the n.S.A., which have succeeded in recording bat slight head-
way in competition with European countries in their trade
relations with South America, and who have failed in their
efforts to capture the Oriental trade, in spite of strenuous
exertions made in both quarters, should have established a
domination over the foreign market in Mexico. In 1906 one-
fourth of the imports and one-seventh of the exports of the
n.S.A. came from or went to Latin -American countries,
including Mexico, which, however, took $51,181,674 out of a
total for all the countries of $181,671,296. For the same
period the n.S.A. imported from Mexico goods to the value
of $50,218,018 out of a total for the Latin-American countries
of $808,565,786.

As I give in the succeeding chapter the figures of British
trade with Mexico, comparison is an easy matter. Were the
business of the n.S.A. as large with other Latin-American
countries as it is with Mexico and Cuba, its total returns would
be more than doubled. In view of the profitable trading which
the TJ.S.A. is doing in Mexico and, with the exceptions to
which I have referred, with other parts of the world, it is
scarcely surprising to find that the wealth of that remarkable
country is growing at the rate of $10,000,000 daily as com-
pared with the rate of $7,000,000 weeldy to which Great
Britain can lay claim. The current year seems destined to
prove an exceptionally brilliant one from a trade point of

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TRADE WITH U.S.A. 219

view for the United States in Mexico, if one may jadge from
the manner in which it has commenced. In the month of
March this year, for instance, Mexico despatched goods to
the n.S.A. to the amount of $6,668,444, being an increase of
$1,000,000 over the month of March of the previous year ;
while, for the same period, she imported from the n.S.A.
$5,776,902, being a little in excess of the amount for March,
1906. It is impossible to lay too much stress on the many
natural advantages which the IJ.SA. possess over any other
country in their trade relations with Mexico. They are only
divided by an imaginary geographical line, and the railways
which run regular daily trains between New Tork and other
large cities and Mexico City, carrying freights and passengers,
are supplemented by a large number of steamships, which
ply regularly between American and Mexican ports. Further-
more, Mexico City being but 4^ days' journey from New Tork
or Washington, as against 12 to 14 days from Mexico, London,
Paris or Berlin, the number of Americans who come down
into Mexico to pass their vacations, or upon flying business-
trips, number 100 to every 1 from Europe. The intelligent
traveller, whether he be a man of commerce or merely a man
on pleasure bent, remembers the axiom — ** Occasio agre
offertoTf facile amitHtwr.'*

Mexico may be said to take practically 66 per cent, of her
imports from the n.S.A. and to send 80 per cent, of her exports
to their markets. Manufactured articles, machinery, coal and
oil are the articles forming this larger share which Mexico
takes from the sister Republic, while sisal, copper in ore and
pigs, lead, hides and skins, as well as coffee and other tropical
products, are the principal articles forming her exports to
America. In spite of this halcyon state of affairs so far as
the TJ.S.A. are concerned, there are not wanting adverse
critics of many of the methods pursued by Americans in
dealing with their Mexican customers, the bitterest criticism
and the severest application of the lash of satire emanating
from the American Consular body resident in Mexico. The
late Mr. James B. Parsons, Consul-Oeneral for Mexico, who has
since been replaced by Mr. Alfred Gottschalk, called attention
upon several occasions in official documents to the slovenly
method in which goods were despatched from the n.S.A. to

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220 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

their destinationy and also to the rank dishonesty which
manofactnrers frequently displayed in sending in bulk articles
quite inferior in quality to those submitted in sample. The
same errors which British manufacturers made, and still
continue to make, in spite of all warning and advice, namely,
that of ignoring the Customs' House authorities' instructions
for invoicing, are committed by Americans, although to
nothing like the same extent.

It is rather amusing to observe how British Consuls
frequently advise British manufacturers to '^emulate the
Americans" in their methods of business; while the
American officials are just as strenuous in their advocacy of
'' British methods," the one apparently not being cognisant
of the faults which are so glaring in the other, and laying to
their credit as ** enterprising and capable salesmen " all the
business which they succeed in securing.

For my own part, I fancy that the palm must be given to
the Americans, who are certainly more enterprising than the
majority of our people, and less prone to overlook the minor
but still essential details laid down by the Mexican Customs'
authorities.

There is nothing like truth, as the late Mr. Parsons seemed
to appreciate, for in writing of his fellow-countrymen in
Mexico, he did not hesitate to apply the fortUer in re when
perhaps the stumter in modo would have proved as serviceable.
One piece of sound advice, however, which he gave to his
countrymen, might, with equal advantage, be taken to heart
by Britishers.

Although the popular notion prevails that mining promo-
tions are the most fruitful of swindles, Mr. Parsons declared
his investigations led him to believe that in Mexico agricul-
tural projects offer just as many opportunities to the
unscrupulous. The familiar process of trading on respected
names is quite as common in Mexico as it has become in the
U.S. A. and Great Britain, and, as the late Consul-General
warned his countrymen, it should not be concluded that a
Mexican investment was inherently sound because men of
reputation and wealth, both in Mexico and the United States,
were interested in it. By trading on these names, Mr.
Parsons pointed out, ^^the promoters sell stock long after

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PREPONDERANCE OP U.S.A. GOODS 221

those mth the slighteet knowledge of the prospects have
recognised them to be fakes. Frequently, the names of well-
known men are used absolutely without authority, to boom
fraudulent propositions. But often such men take * fliers '
influenced by the wily statement of the promoter or by the
weight of their nameei. With a thousand irons in the fire at
home, these men know really nothing about Mexican enter-
prises, and can afford to lose such small investments with
perfect equanimity."

Already a great quantity of American-made furniture goes
into Mexico, the local supplies being wholly inadequate to the
demand. There is scarcely a private office, bank, or public
building which one enters that does not contain obviously
American furniture, for its mathematical angularity and
generally unattractive appearance are unmistakeable. Thou-
sands of roll-top desks, revolving-chairs, tables, book-shelves,
settees, sofas and ** rockers/' find their way into Mexico from
across the border, in spite of the heavy duties which are im-
posed. Chairs, beds, dressers and bedroom-tables cannot,
however, enter on account of these duties, and the conse-
quent high price at which they are retailed. Pianos cannot
be made sufficiently cheaply in America to sell in Mexico, all
such instruments coming from Germany, the Teutons with
their cheaper material and cheaper labour being able to
manufacture an article which entirely outstrips the American,
or that of any other country. Quantities of good American
agricultural implements are being introduced into Mexico,
the more intelligent among the haciendados at length con-
senting to purchase after years of persuasion. American
light-bodied carriages are also becoming popular, as are a
certain number of American automobiles, although the
favourites among the wealthy classes are still those of French,
Italian and British make. The boot and shoe trade is practi-
cally monopolised by n.S.A. houses ; but Mexican as well as
American customers, of whom there are a large number, prefer
British-made clothes, just as Mexican ladies prefer French to
German or American-made lingerie^ etc., etc. Groceries,
stationery, office articles, books, magazines and newspapers
are predominantly American.

I have elsewhere given particulars of the imports of cotton,

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222 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

wheat, coal, etc. into Mexico from the U.S.A., and it is there-
fore onnecessary to make farther reference to these, all-
important as they are. Railroad sapplies, even most of
those employed by the British-owned railways, come from the
U.S.A., comprising cars for steam and other railroads, loco-
motives, car-wheels and steel rails, as well as tramcars,
switches, points, semaphores and weighing machines, etc.
Electric apparatus and machinery are among the more im-
portant items of trade between Mexico and the sister Republic;
while over a million dollars' worth of hardware, saws, tools
and firearms come annually into Mexico. The purchases of
pumping-machinery, stationary-engines, boilers and general
machinery exceeded $4,000,000 last year, and promise to
amount to more than that for the current year. Of cotton
cloths and other manufactures of cotton, the annual pur-
chases are still about $660,000, although the Republic has
many mills of its own ; over $1,000,000 of explosives, and
about $860,000 worth of copper-goods, as well as large
quantities of cement, aggregating 76,000 barrels per annum,
are imported. British cement is undoubtedly the best if the
more expensive article, but cheap German and Belgian stuff
is sometimes preferred. Messrs. A. Grimwood and Co., of
Mexico City, represent one of the best British cement firms
and do a large turnover annually. Mexico likewise purchased
$1,000,000 worth of sewing machines, typewriters, printing
presses, etc., from the United States last year, and other im-
portant items, the number of which is continually increasing,
were safes, scales and balances, stoves and ranges, manufac-
tures of brass, chemicals, drugs, dyes and medicines, cordage,
china and earthenware, lamps, paints and colours, toys and
wooden-ware. The lighter and cheaper kind of harness for
which American houses are famous, is not very popular in
Mexico, those who can afford it preferring the more solid-
made British goods, both saddles, bridles, reins and leather
riding-boots of British manufacture.

Among the many visitors who come from the U.S.A. to
spend a few weeks or months in the winter in the delightful
dimate of Mexico are a considerable proportion of merchants
and merchants* travellers, who do not consider it infra dig.
to devote a portion of their time to introducing their manu-

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IMPROVING THE OCCASION 228

faotores to the notice of Mexican dealers, and this fact
accounts in no small degree for the popularity which
American goods generally meet with. I have known of
several cases in which enterprising young Americans, who
have come down into Mexico for brief vacations, have re-
turned laden with orders, which at the outset of their journey
they had never even contemplated. The intelligent business
man considers every opportunity which presents itself to him,
no matter from what direction it may come, or under what
circumstances it may occur.

The small mail-order business has been recently established
between the United States and Mexico with remarkable
success, a large number of residents in the northern part of
the Republic finding it possible to purchase goods in the
n.S*A. and have them despatched by parcels' mail cheaper
than they can buy them in Mexico itself. I understand that
during the Fair held in San Antonio last year, the merchants
of that city sold to Mexicans visiting that country no less than
$260,000 gold (£50,000) of good& That the mail-order busi-
ness between the two Republics is increasing consistently is
shown by the postal receipts and customs returns.

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CHAPTER LXI

British trade— Former podtioxi— DeoUne— Amerioan ofapremaoy— Hi^
positions and influence of Americans in Mexico — Mexican cotton
goods — Iron^ steel, coal and other mannfactores — Methods of doing
buBiness— -British shortcomings— Customs regulations — Marking and
invoicing goods— Mexican foreign trade — Some British concerns.

Thbbb are traditions — ^and unfortunately they are little more
than traditions to-day — ^that at one time British commerce
attracted the envy of the world. And among the many
countries where it flourished was Mexico. *' Yes/* said one
of the Ministers to me, '* some forty years ago you British
were practically the dominant factors in this country's trade.
Tou came here when no one else would look at us, except as
a possible tit-bit for internal consumption and absorption;
you lent us a few millions to open-up our mines, build our
earliest railways and replenish our empty Treasury. And
then, just when you might have reasonably anticipated some
fruitful returns from the seed which you had so plentifully
and so pluckily sown, what happened ? Tou left the country I
Can you tell me why ?"

I could not, and cannot to this day. Does anyone else
know ? It is not at all like the Britisher to thoroughly warm
the nest of trade and commerce in a new and difficult, though
promising, country and then calmly desert it so that a new
and enterprising rival, geographically much better situated
than he, may come in and take possession. Nevertheless
that is the story of British and American trade relations with
Mexico. We had our chance and lost it. ** Chance could but
happen once," as Browning has told us, ** and we missed it —
lost it for ever." No ; we can never overtake the ground we
have wilfully and most stupidly forsaken, and it serves us
right that the clear, bright and ever-watchful American has

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AMERICANS IN MEXICO 225

stepped in and seoored practical possession of one of the
finest and safest markets in the whole world. Compare the
proportions of foreign trade with Mexico to-day, and see how
the American predominates everywhere. Is he not more
nnmeroas in popolation ? Does he not control the railways,
the banks, the insurance offices, run the newspapers, own ttie
finest stores and manage all the great mines of the Republic ?
And does he not do them all uncommonly well ? Now and
again one comes across an all-British enterprise, such as the
Mexican Railway, the Southern Railway, the Montreal Bank,
a few of the better-known mines. Messrs. S. Pearson and
Son, Ltd., have some £4,000,000 or £6,000,000 from first to
last invested in commercial undertakings in Mexico; but,
for the rest, the best that can be said for the Britisher is that
he is found harmoniously working side by side with Brother
Jonathan, and well content enough to do so, for the relations
between the two Anglo-Saxon races in Mexico are aux mieux.

Nevertheless, it would have been as well to my insular mind
had we maintained our one-time enviable position in Mexico's
trade ; and it is with no disrespect to, nor the least par-
ticle of ill-feeling against, our highly-esteemed friends the
Americans, if I say I would that my countrymen occupied
the same lofty position, the same commanding influence and
the same pre-eminence in commerce and finance in Mexico
that they do.

And now let me add that all these have been well and
honestly won by the Americans, who, taken as a body of
men and women, living in a foreign country and among a
people strange in religion, in thought and in speech, have all
along shown themselves high-minded, thoughtful, conscien-
tious and enterprising, generous in their considerateness for
others' susceptibilities and careful to refrain from any sem-
blance of political or religious bias in all their dealings. The
history of the Americans in Mexico is a history of which any
alien country might feel proud.

Strong reasons make strong actions, and there is always
patent, to those who take the trouble to search for it, the
cause of an effect. One important factor in the falling-off of
British goods in the Mexican markets, for instance, is found in
the increasing independence of that country. Take imported

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226 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

cotton goods as an example. There are now 120 cotton
mills in the Republic, consuming 16,000 tons of raw-cotton
annually, which naturally means a diminution in the pur-
chasing of similar merchandise from Great Britain. Coal,
which is at present largely imported from Great Britain, will
shortly be less in demand in consequence of the success of
the coal-fields in Coahuila and Sonera. Steel and iron are
being manufactured locally, and other specialities also. British
machinery, engines, boilers, etc., which stand very high in
the opinion of the natives as regards endurance, have been
largely ousted from Mexican markets by the nearer position
of the n.S.A., and the energy which is displayed by American
conunercial travellers in obtaining orders. They seek for
them, while the Britishers calmly and stupidly wait for them
to come. Failure is also not unconnected with the hesitancy
of British manufacturers, who have been timorous of trusting
Mexican buyers with credit, a suspicion which is as absurd as
it is unfounded. No great international trade ever yet was
or ever will be built-up upon a strictly cash-basis, credit being
the foundation of all great commercial and financial inter-
change. As Benjamin Disraeli once said : " However gradual
may be the growth of confidence, that of credit requires still
more time to arrive at maturity." Why not give it this time ?
British business houses have not hesitated to give credit in
other parts of the world. Why should they not as freely
extend it to Mexico ?

It is also a great mistake to imagine that Mexican trade
can be built up by appointing an agent to order goods, or
from one journey of a salesman who is probably as inexperi-
enced in the use of the Spanish language as he is in Mexican
methods. Even minor transactions are carried out more
slowly in Mexico than in other countries, and procedure
must be undertaken with care and perseverance and infinite
patience. New inventions, however meritorious or ingenious,
cannot be introduced in a day — or even in a week ; and the
superiority of any article offered must be practically demon-
strated before the cautious Mexican will bestow his patronage
upon it. Therefore, manufacturers who would wish their
goods employed in Mexico must either themselves go to the
country and stay there for a period, or send a resident repre-

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State of Jalisco.— Volcano of Colima, 12,000 ft. high.

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CUSTOMS BEGULATIONB 227

sentaiive who is willing to treat with the natives in their own
iashion, and, if necessary, conform to their wishes and tastes
as regards colour, design, methods of packing, wrapping, con-
struction, etc., instead of adhering with a fetish-like persis-
tency to ancient British formula.

Mexican commercial customs differ in several respects from
those in force in Great Britain and in the United States, but
they are the customs of a nation and of centuries, and foreign
business-men must of necessity conform to them. It is quite
a mistake to suppose that Mexican customs or regulations are
any more onerous or untenable than those of any other
Spanish-American country. So far from this being the case,
I am decidedly of opinion that they are less difficult, less
onerous, and much more to be relied upon. In all classes of
goods, except a few relating to live-stock, the customs duties
are based on weights and measures ; while in regard to spirits,
such as brandies, wines and whiskies, they are calculated
on the gallon. In regard to boots, shoes and such-like
manufactures, dues are levied on the pair. In cloth fabrics,
the length and width of each piece must be given, including
fringes. The metric system is used, and here, again, British
manufacturers should thoroughly acquaint themselves with the
beneficial simplicities of the metric system. My experience is
that British exporters send out their invoices made out in
** £ s. d.," while their weights are computed in ** lbs., oz. and
dwts.," or '* tons and cwts.," absolutely ignoring the essential
fact that nine Mexicans out of every ten do not understand
what these weights and measures mean, while the tenth, who
perhaps does, declines to have anything to do with them.
Then, again, in regard to despatching invoices. The Mexican
customs authorities demand that these should be sent out in
duplicate — bills of lading, consular invoices and other neces-
sary trading documents. The goods to be despatched to the
importing houses must be sent to the custom-house broker at
the port of import, together with a copy of the invoice, mani-
fest and a packing-list, while the original bill of lading and
invoice must be sent direct to the consignee. The packing-
list must show the marks, countermarks, the number of
packages and contents of each, and the principal material
from which each article is made. If, for instance, an article

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228 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

is plated, the invoioe mast show with what material it is
plated, as well as the gross weight ; the kind of goods in each
package, the legal weight of each package, the name of
consignee, destination, and the name of the castom-hoose
broker to whose care the freight is consigned, most all be set
forth fully and clearly. In all cases the actual value of the
merchandise at the point of shipment should be represented.
If the articles are found to be undervalued they are subject
to a fine for undervaluation, although the values-description
is practically of minor consequence, since all duties are
specific. The above rule applies also to declarations as to
weight and class of merchandise, which must be given
correctly, otherwise a fine is imposed, and sometimes the
goods are confiscated.

Last year a concern known as La Compania Importadora
Britanica S.A. was formed to deal in goods of British
manufacture almost exclusively, the principal store being
located at Monterey, in the State of Nuevo Leon, and being run
on the same lines as the co-operative stores in London and
the catalogue houses in the U.S.A. I do not know how far
the venture succeeded, or if it succeeded at alL The Mexican
National Packing Co. was formed in the month of January
last to operate under special concessions from the Qovemment
of Mexico with a capital of $2,000,000 (£400,000). Although
the capital was sought for and obtained in England, the under-
taking seemed to be practically American and Mexican, but the
London Advisory Board of Directors contained the names of
Sir William F. Haynes-Smith (Chairman, Land and General
Trust, Ltd.) ; Sir William Wiseman, Bart. (London Manager
of the Imperial Food Supplies, Ltd.) ; and the Hon. Adolfo
Bulle, Consul-General for the United States in London and
its dependencies. A large number of Mexican mines in which
British capital is invested will be found described under the
Mining Chapter.

The marked falling-off in the values of imports into Mexico
from the United Kingdom, noticeable in 1906, is no less
apparent in the figures for 1907. Take but one month as an
example — say the first month of the present year — and note
the enormous difference between the United States and other
countries. The countries which furnished the major part of

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F0BEI6N TBADE 229

the merchandise entering through the Mexican caatom-honBes
in January, 1907, were as follows :

U.SJ^. ... ... ... ... 918,214,848

Great Britain ... ... ... 2,227,640

Gtonnany ... ... ... 1,047,977

France ... ... ... ... 1,847,772

Spain 688,470

Belgium ... ... ... 207,800

Italy ... ... ... ... 184,880

The following figures relating to Mexico's foreign trade for
the first six months of the fiscal year 1906-1907 may prove of
interest, showing as they do an increase of no less than
$7,122,874 over the same period for the previous year, and
unfortunately displacing Great Britain as the second most
important country after the United States in favour of
Germany:

Imports, first half of fiscal year, 1905-1907 :

Animal substances ... ... 910,018,879.29

Vegetable substances 18,471,596.62

Mineral snbstances ... ... 87,028,191.07

Dry goods ... ... ... 18,240,840.87

Chemioals, drags, etc. ... ... 4,145,498.60

Beverages .. ... ... 8,872,205.48

Paper and applicationB ... ... 2,922,881.28

Machinery and apparatus ... ... 18,661,040.58

Vehides 4,090,064.94

Anns and explosives ... ... 2^058,156.88

Misoellaneons ... ... ... 4,524,705.58

Total imports ... ... $106,598,506.04

Imports for same months in 1905-1906. ... 87,495,560.85

Increase in 1906-1907 921,102,945.19

The various countries which furnished these $108,598,506
of merchandise during these six months were :

United States 967,275,176.68

Germany ... ... ... ... 12,578,055.12

Great Britain 10,808,207.60

Franoe ... ... ... ... 8,891,869.10

Spain ... ... ... ... 8,817,785.60

Belgium ... ... ... ... 1,484,761.94

The above figures represent Mexican pS$o$ (value 2s.), and
I have not given the statistics of such countries as Japan,

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280 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

HindnBtan, Holland, Portugal, Norway, Ansiria, Hongary,
etc., whose contributions are too small for notice. It will be
seen from the above, anyhow, that the U.S.A. outstrip Great
Britain by something like 600 per cent. It is not possible to
say whether the falling-off in British imports is general or
confined to one or more of a particular class of commodities
without going too minutely into the subject. It should be
sufficient for the ordinary reader to be aware that British
trade in Mexico is not as flourishing as it should and might
be, and that heroic efforts are necessary to restore it to even
a semblance of its original proud position.

In the preceding chapter, in which I have dealt with
American trade, it will be seen how very different is the
condition of affairs with our enterprising cousins across the
water.

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CHAPTEE LXn

Mexican mannfaotores — High tarifGs and protection — C^erman competition
and enterprise — Candle manuf aotore — Plate glass — ^Enormons duties
— Malt factory — Asbestos — ^Paper-making — San Bafael Works — ^A
snccessful company — The firm of G. and 0. Braniff— Westinghonse
and other American machinery — Breweries — The Gerveceria Mocte-
zuma — Notable machinery.

Onb is 80 muoh acoustomed to associate the Republic of
Mexico with mining — in much about the same manner as
Brazil is remembered by many in relation to *' nuts " — ^that
little note is taken of the country as an industrial and manu-
facturing centre. One day the rest of the world will awaken
to the unpleasant fact, palpable enough to those who visit the
country and see the prevailing condition of things with their
own eyes, that Mexico is ready to close her door in toto to all
but a very few manufactured articles, and to levy exceedingly
heavy duties upon others. Every time the Tariff is altered
the position of the Republic and its independence upon out-
side sources is found to be stronger and stronger, and it is a
strength, moreover, which endures, rather than a spasmodic
or sporadic effort. In only one case of which I know has the
Government raised a protective duty when once imposed,
which fact speaks as well for the caution with which such
duties are originally levied as the broadmindedness which
controls their application.

With that keenness of perception which distinguishes the
German from among all the nations of the earth where self-
interest is concerned, the Teutons have to a great extent dis-
counted the closing of Mexico's doors to manufactured articles
from abroad by establishing here a number of bureaux, banks,
and branches of their home-factories. These are to be found
in many important industrial centres, such as Toluca, the

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282 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTUET

capital City of the State of Mexico (which must not, however,
be confused with Mexico City, the Capital of the Federal State
of Mexico), and where there is a German Brewery and a
German glass-bottle factory managed entirely by Germans
and employing German capital almost wholly. Most Germans
learn Spanish very quickly, and although they speak it with a
strong accent, they get along remarkably well, and snatch trade
while other nationalities are beginning to look about them for
opportunities. But even Germany is destined to feel the effect
of Mexico's gradual emancipation from the thraldom of foreign
supplies, and it will need all the ingenuity of the Teuton to
worm a way through the stringent tariffs which the Govern-
ment is even now considering for the coming year.

To give but one example. Whereas some 10 or 16 years
ago Mexico imported all her fine candles — and many millions
are used annually in the service of the Roman Catholic
Church — from France, while Germany supplied a much cruder
and commoner kind of article, vulgarly known as ^'dips,"
to-day the Republic is manufacturing 90 per cent, of the
candles used. In 1901 the exports of candles to Mexico from
the United States amounted to $67,900 (£11,680), while in
1906 they did not exceed $64,000 (£10,800), and this year
they will be nearer to $60,000 (£10,000). The duty at the
present time amounts to 60 centavos a kilogram of candles,
manufactured of beeswax, and 18 centavos a kilogram of
candles made from stearin. The manufacturers of Mexico
have taken steps to have this already prohibitive duty still
further augmented, and there is little doubt but that the
Government will accede to the suggestion. Strangely enough,
all the paraffin and stearin used locally in the manufacture of
candles comes from the United States, while the wicks are
imported from France. A factory is, as a matter of fact, pro-
ducing wicks, but they are poor and inefficient, and so far
have not affected the foreign supply. I may mention that one
candle-factory in Mexico at the present time is selling candles
of fine beeswax to the church authorities amounting to $1,800
Mex. Cy. (£180) a month, while I am informed that there are
at least $10,000 (£1,000) worth of candles used throughout
the country every month at religious festivals.

Plate glass is another important article which will erelong

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FOREIGN IMPOETS 288

be locked ont of Mexico. Already the tariff is sufficiently
high, one would say, to protect the home manufoctore, the
glass being shipped at the minimum of 6,000 kilos, first-class
rate. This means that a pane of ordinary plate glass, the
value of which may be £10, costs about £95 if brought into
the Capital or shipped to any other part of the Republic.
When a large show window gets broken, therefore, as not
infrequently happens in the more narrow streets of Mexico City,
the cost of replacing it is enormous — and there is no Plate
Glass Insurance Go. in Mexico. Nevertheless, it is proposed
to still further increase the tariff.

Some Germans have just completed and opened a new malt
factory, which will supply practically one-half of the needs of
the entire Republic. These amount to 1,200 bushels per day,
and the new factory is turning out 600 bushels daily. Another
instance of Teutonic enterprise. Whereas 10 years ago no
chemical factory was to be found throughout the length and
breadth of Mexico, to-day there are 6 of them, all of which are
doing excellent business. Dynamite, sulphuric acid and other
chemicals are now all supplied locally, which is a matter of
considerable importance to the United States, whence all
these things came. Birmingham's consignments of nuts,
screws and bolts is falling off, and as a factory has just been
commenced to supply the same articles first-hand, the imports
will hereafter gradually dwindle still further. Soap is now
made in considerable quantities locally, the Jaboneria de la
Laguna, one of the largest soap factories in Mexico, finding
the industry sufficiently remunerative to enable it to pay its
shareholders 86 and 40 per cent. The capital of the Company
is only dB250,000, and the £10 shares stand at £45 each. No
" Soap Trust " is deemed necessary in Mexico.

There are just one or two things which Mexicans cannot
succeed in, however, although to do them but bare justice
they try their utmost. One is to make shoe-polish. There
was a factory here which bravely struggled to get its manufac-
tures adopted in place of the American stuff so freely used
here ; but unfortunately the factory could not compete, and
has recently shut down. All such importations come here from
J^rance and the United States, and Great Britain has not even
a *' look-in." Asbestos is another product which has failed to

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2S4 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTUET

BQCceed, the Mexican quality being very poor and of small
quantity. The United Asbestos Co., Ltd., of London, doee a
capital and increasing trade here, the best Italian product
fetching from £100 to dB200 a ton. The Canadian brings
about half of this.

To the late Mr. Thomas Braniff is due the credit of having
started the first manufactory of paper upon a modem and
extensive scale, known as the San Rafael Paper Works.
This was about 16 years ago, his partner being Mr. Jo86
Sanchez Ramos, whose name I have had occasion to mention
in this work in connection with several other useful and
successful enterprises. The two pioneers installed a 10-ton
hydro-electric propelled paper factory at the foot of the
Ixtacchihuatl volcano, and immediately in the centre of the
raw material as represented by a vast area of virgin forest.
A few years later, the Progr^so Paper Factory was established
by a group of Spanish capitalists. An amalgamation of
these interests soon followed, and under the new combined
organisation a great impetus was afforded to the paper-making
industry of the Republic.

On the death of Mr. Thomas Braniff, his two sons, Oscar
and Thomas, entered upon the management of the Company,
while they were joined by Mr. Julio Limantour, a brother of
the Minister of Finance, and a prominent local banker. The
policy of the enterprise was now that of further expansion. The
whole of the Company's important water-power concessions
were developed, the capacity of the factory was doubled, and
the best English, Norwegian and German paper-makers were
placed at the head of the technical departments, which, in
conjunction with the practical administration of Mr. Jos6 de la
Macorra, the general manager, brought about a complete trans-
formation in the paper-manufacturing industry of Mexico.

To-day the San Rafael Paper Works produce about 70 tons of
paper per diem, of all grades, and directly supply the general
market of Mexico. Having an unlimited amount of capital,
an abundant — indeed almost exhaustless — water - supply »
vast untouched timber-lands and a continually increasing
cUentilej the Company purposes further and further increases
of output, not only in order to keep up with the demand bat
also with the idea of lowering the prices of their product

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MEXICAN MANUFACTUBES 285

to the public. As an evidence of the latterly saccessful
character of the undertaking, I may mention that, while the
shares of the Company but two years ago stood at $65.00 for
the fuUy^paid $100.00 share, to-day they cannot be bought
under $140. They are officially listed upon both the Mexican
and the Paris Stock Exchange, where active dealings are
frequently observed to take place. The capital of the Company
stands at $7,000,000 (say £70,000).

Messrs. G. and 0. Braniff and Co. represent several high-
class firms in the United States, such as the Baldwin Loco-
motive Co., the Westinghouse Electric Manufacturing Co.,
A. B. Farquahar and Co., and others. In connection with
their electrical work, they have already installed about
150,000 h.p., always using the Westinghouse electrical
machinery, with which, as stated, they are closely affiliated.
It may be said that with one or two other firms of American
and German manufacturers, they occupy a foremost position
as electrical engineers and contractors.

All the latest agricultural machinery of the firm of A. B.
Farquahar and Co., of the Eastern United States, is handled by
the firm of G. and 0. Braniff and Co., and in view of the
extremely conservative character of the Mexican agriculturist,
to push these inventions is no easy undertaking. It is perhaps
fortunate that the members of the firm themselves are con-
siderable employers of agricultural machinery, each of them
owning extensive estates which produce various kinds of crops,
situated in different portions of the Republic and contending
with as many different climatic and economic conditions.
Practical requirements in the way of adaptations and im-
provements for the special use of Mexicans can thus be
obtained at first hand, and the manufacturers have proved
themselves ready to profit by them. Mr. Oscar Braniff, for
instance, is now installing an experimental agricultural station
at his fatmous Hacienda Jalpa, to which fuller reference is
made elsewhere in this volume.

While the native Mexican of the lower class sticks leech-
like to his beloved mescal, or tequila pulque, and refuses all
and every kind of foreign-made substitute, the foreigner and
the higher-class native are great lovers of beer, and, in a
lesser degree, of European or American liquors. Distilleries of

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286 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

the home-grown plant, the maguey, are found in great
nnmbers and widely-distributed. Every State has several,
and can even count some hundreds of such distilleries, which,
with the cultivation of the producing-plant, spell a fortune,
as a rule, for the proprietors. To-day there are certainly no
fewer than 2,800 establishments devoted to the manufacture
of spirits from the maguey-plant, the sugar-cane, grapes,
grain, etc., and the amount which they produce annually
may be put at some 85,000,000 litres of spirits, most of this
emanating, however, from the sugar-cane, and not, as may be
supposed from the enormous number of maguey-plants
which are seen, from the latter. As a matter of fact, while
22,687,487 litres of spirits were produced from the cane last
year (1906), only some 10,742,656 litres came from the
maguey. There are some 2,500 stills in operation in the
Republic, but the great majority are still being worked by old
plant and machinery. Besides the deadly me$cal and the
nauseous-looking jpu^gue, the lower-class Mexicans consume
great quantities of aguardiente^ otherwise ''fire-water," a
powerful intoxicant which makes devils of men, and is mainly
responsible for the murders and assaults which occur from
time to time among the people.

There are at least a half-dozen prominent and highly-
successful breweries, the finest, perhaps, being that at Orizaba,
and known as Cerveceria Moctezuma. This is an enormous
establishment which has risen from very humble beginnings,
until it employs to-day about 450 men and boys (an especially
large number of the latter, who prove quick and intelligent
youngsters), and producing 500 to 550 barrels of lager and
100,000 bottles of beer almost every day throughout the year.
Ten years ago, 15 barrels and some few hundreds of bottled
beers were the average daily output. The brewery addition-
ally manufactures 50 tons of ice, of which 40 are sent down to
Veracruz (82 miles away), and the balance consumed locally
or packed with the beer sent to the various parts of the
Republic. The brewery is about 12 years old, and is owned
by several French, Swiss, Oerman and a few Spanish share-
holders. The capital is $2,000,000 (£200,000).

The beer, which is a delicious-tasting and crystal-dear
liquid, is brewed from Bohemian hops (Saas), which cost the

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BBEWEBIES 287

Company from 60 to 70 centavos (say Is. 4d. to Is. 6d.) a lb.,
as against the United States grown hops at 16 to 18 centavos
(say 8^. to 4^d.) a lb. But there is no comparison between
the excellence of the two qualities, and the amount of the
beer which they produce. The water used is taken from the
local river, the Bio Blanco.

Practically the whole of the magnificently-equipped plant
and machinery are from the United States, mostly the
product of Messrs. Vilter and Co., of Milwaukee, the other
supplying firms including the (roetz and Fladin Company of
Chicago, the Loew Supply Company of Cleveland, Ohio ;
Messrs. Eaestner and Co., of Chicago, the Spalcher Cooperage
Company, of St. Louis ; and Messrs. Henos and Keller, of
Michigan, who manufactured the elaborate bottle-washing,
filling and corking machinery. The Manager, Mr. Neumayer,
a (German of great experience, has helped greatly to raise the
Moctezuma Brewery at Orizaba from comparative obscurity to
a commanding position among the manufacturies of the
Republic.

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CHAPTEE LXni

Some prominent enterprises — The Mexican Light and Power Co. —
Valuable concessions and contracts — Mexican Cbyemment Financial
Agency — ^Compania Garbonifera — Anglo-Mexican oil-fields— AB8oei&-
don Finandera — Mexican Mining and Indastrial Ck>rporation —
Mexican Trast Co. — Anglo-Mexican Garage — Some prominent
financiers as directors — Becent and existing British corporations in
Mexico.

Thb greatest commercial nndertaking from a capital point of
view is undoubtedly the Mexican Light and Power Co., a
Canadian Corporation, which, from first to last, has some
$14,000,000 (£2,800,000) invested. It owns, besides the
Mexican Light and Power Co., the Mexican Gas Co., the
Mexican Tramways, the Pn^bla Tramways and Electric Go.»
the San Ildefonso Co., and several other minor enterprises
either wholly or in part The original Mexican Light and
Power Co. bought out the well-known concern of Siemens and
Haltske Co., which held all the street-lighting contracts for
Mexico City, and they have since then absorbed one concern
— including that owned by Antony Oibbs and Co., of London
— after another. Some of the leading financiers of the
Bepublic were interested in the San Ddefonso (Compaiiia
Explotadora de las Fuerzas) before the Canadian absorption.
Altogether this great corporation owns some 8 different
plants, and employs over 6,000 men. It is cleverly and, on
the whole, well-managed, and occupies an important position
in Mexican commercial circles.

To afford some idea of what this company means to the
industrial world, of which Mexico City may be termed the
hub, it may be said that it supplies all the electric light of
the City of Mexico itself, as well as the gas and the motive
power to work the 600 odd miles of tram-lines ; it sends its

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GOYEENMBNT FINANCIAL AGENCY 289

power to the far distant gold-mines at El Oro (the Esperanza,
the El Oro and the Dos Estrellos), it supplies the power for
pumping potable waters for the Federal City» and provides
the motive force for all its great machinery. Some of its
contracts extend to twenty years and longer, and even now
its fall service of light and power is requisitioned. It derives
its power from some magnificent natural falls at Necaxa,
about 100 miles from Mexico City, where some colossal
engineering works have been in progress for several years, and
are now almost completed. These produce about 200,000 h.p.
of electric energy. Sir George A. Drummond, President of
the Bank of Montreal, is the President of this Company, and
Mr. Charles H. Cahan a Director and Secretary, with the
greater part of the active management in his strong and
capable hands. Much of the great success of the Company
is due to the enterprising management of Mr. Cahan.

The Mexican Qovemment maintains, at an annual ex-
penditure of some £8,000, an admirably-equipped London
Financial Agency, at Finsbury Pavement House, E.C. Senor
Luis Camacho is the Resident Manager, and Sefior Manuel
Diaz Barriga Chief of the Information Bureau. Here are
to be found maps, books, pamphlets and other data of
interest to those desiring to know something about Mexico,
and the Agency has recently added a large and well-
stocked Museum, showing the various minerals, ores and raw
materials produced in the Republic. With the characteristic
courtesy and good nature of their nation, Messrs. Camacho
and Barriga put themselves to any and every trouble to
satisfy the inquiries of their callers and correspondents, and
the Mexican Government have taken no wiser or more suc-
cessful step than the establishment of this Financial Agency
in London.

The Compaiiia Carbonifera de Monterey paid its first
dividend of $6 per share last May, the capital being
$1,000,000.

A new venture launched in the month of May last was the
Industrial Engineering and Supply Co., of which Mr. James
A. Peirce is ttie General Manager and Mr. W. W. Wheatly
the President. Both gentlemen were long identified with the
Mexican Electric Tramways Co., and were mainly responsible

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240 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

for the improved management of that concern. The new
Company represents some of the leading American and
European factories, and deals in all such commodities as
machinery, tools, supplies for mining, milling and construction
work, etc., and carries a large stock of electrical supplies.

In June last the Anglo-Mexican Oil Fields, Limited, was
introduced on the London Market with a capital of £250,000,
to work oilfields in the Southern part of Mexico, namely the
State of Chiapas. The properties are located about nine
miles from a river, and therefore the question of transport at
least should be easily settled. It is hoped that the greatest
customers for the field's productions will be found in the
Interoceanic and Mexican Railway Companies, but overtures
to these two concerns to adopt oil fuel in place of coal have
been made before, and without success. But the primary
thing will be to find the oil in sufficient quantities — ^the market
for it can be found afterwards.

The Associacion Financiera Internacional holds a charter
from the Mexican Government, its object being to encourage
the investment of foreign capital in the Republic. President
Diaz has always taken a keen interest in the career of the
concern, which has shown much energy and enterprise in its
management. The Associacion has connections with a large
number of similar bodies scattered about the United States
and with some in Europe, and maintains correspondence, I
understand, with some 15,000 or 16,000 different firms. The
ruling spirit is Senator Jos6 Castellot, who has given up much
of his time to its management, his son being in charge of the
legal department, one of the most important.

The Mexican Mining and Industrial Corporation was re-
gistered last May with £159JB0 capital. The object is to
adopt an agreement with the Venture Corporation, Limited,
and carry on in Mexico the business of bankers, financiers,
concessionnaires, merchants, miners, etc. This capital is^
roughly speaking, $1,687,600 Mexican currency.

The Mexican Trust Co., which was formed as recently as
last April, is the only concern of its kind in the Republic,
having for its object the financing and promoting of purely
Mexican enterprises, without there being any necessity to
resort to foreign capital. A very powerful and representative

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BRITISH COMPANIES 241

board of directors is in charge, including Colonel F61ix Diaz
(Chief of the Police in the Federal District, and nephew of
the President of the Bepublic) ; Mr. Robert G. Carlisle ; Senor
Juan A. Certuaba ; Seiior Melesio Parra ; Brigadier-General
Joaquin Beltr4n (Commander in Chief of the Military College
of Mexico) ; Congressman Irineo Paz ; Congressman Fidencio
Hernandez, and Mr. Arthur C. Morris, of Toronto, Canada.

Another recently-formed enterprise is the Anglo-Mexican
Garage (Garage Anglo-Mexicano S.A.), which has the ex-
clusive agency of some of the best British manufacturers of
automobiles. I learn that the establishment of this concern
has already proved an unqualified success. The members
comprising the board of Directors include Messrs. Julio M.
Limantour, Thomas P. Honey, Porfirio Diaz junior, Walter
Morcom, Andres Bermejillo and Jos^ Y. Burgos. The idea,
which I believe originated with Mr. Thomas P. Honey, is an
excellent one, since the sale of cars in the Republic of Mexico,
and the number of repairs which progress over the many
immature roads demands, are continually increasing ; and as
plenty of money is being made in the country at present, the
sale of high -class machines may be expected to continue.

A few of the British corporations which have been formed to
carry on business id the Republic may be given as follows : —

Capital.

The Mexican Railway ... ... ... J87»8a0,780

„ Southern Railway ... ... ... 1,589,266

„ Interoceanio Railway ... ... 5,419,845

„ 8. Pearson and Son, Ltd. ... ... 5,000,000

„ Esperanza Mines, Ltd. ... ... 450,000

„ El Oro Mining and Railway Co., Ltd. 1,600,000

„ Jalisco Mexican Mining Syndicate ... 15,000

„ United Mexican Mines ... ... 5,000

„ New Anglo-Mexican Co. ... ... 10,000

„ Santa Beatriz Syndicate ... ... 10,000

„ Salinas of Mexico^ Ltd. ... ... 825,000

„ Gnanacevi Co. ... ... ... 225,000

„ Consuelo Mines ... ... ... 20,000

„ Mexican Options ... ... ... 10,000

,y Sierra Jaurez Exploration Co. ... 25,000

,, Congreso Copper Co. ... ... 20,000

„ Mexico Syndicate ... ... ... 19,000

„ Reforma Mines Syndicate, Ltd. ... 56,400

„ Mexican Smelting Corporation ... 150,000

„ Borranca Mines .. ... ... 160,000

„ An^o-Mexican (Ml Fields ... ... 250,000

„ El frogr^so Mexican Mines ... 50,000

VOL. n. 37

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CHAPTER LXIV

BuBBBB : Unprofitable enterprises — Mexican nibber — Speoies — Ckiaynl^—
Opinions regarding value— First discovery — American exploitation —
Anglo-Continental Bubber Co.— Substitutes. Sugar : Successful culti-
vation — Improvement in quality — ^Leading districts — Average produc-
tion — Prices, past and present — ^Future possibilities — Modem methods
— Old and new mills — ^Beet sugar — Prospects of superseding cane.

Probably no product of Mexico has been more written about,
nor has proved on the whole more disappointing, than rubber.
From first to last some $50,000,000 (£5,000,000) have been
invested in rubber plantations in this country, but it would
be extremely difficult to point to more than half a dozen
estates which have ever returned anything in the shape of
honestly-earned dividends to their proprietors. Nevertheless,
it cannot be stated with accuracy that no progress in rubber*
culture has been made. So far from this being the case, I
believe that the industry is going ahead, if slowly none the
less surely; but that Mexico will ever compete with such
countries as Brazil, Ceylon, the Malay Peninsula, or even
with Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama or Hawaii, as a rubber-
producer, I venture to doubt.

Even among the planters themselves in Mexico, wide
differences of opinion exist as to the proper methods of
cultivation, and there is little or no community of interest
between them. Taking the planters as a whole, I find them
men of very little worldly experience. It is quite the exception
to meet proprietors of a plantation who know anything of
Ceylon or Malay rubber, and while they are, no doubt, kept
well -acquainted through their trade -journals with what is
transpiring in those countries, it is practical knowledge which
they lack, and the want of which is reflected in the non-succesa
of their enterprises.

242

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RUBBER GROWING 248

There are certain plantations, on the other hand, which
display in their management both intelligence and enterprise.
One of these is the Rubio Plantation, situated on the banks
of the Ooatzacoalcos river, some 85 miles from the Port of
Goatzacoalcos (now known as ** Port Mexico "), and which is
the property of an American Company, the Tehuantepec
Rubber Culture Co., Ltd., of New Tork. Here are to be seen
many thousands of trees, from 8 to 6 years old, while both care
and intelligence have been displayed in their method of plant-
ing. Every attention is paid to weeding — a most important
part of rubber culture — and the estate is the '' cleanest"
which I have seen in Mexico. The General Manager, Mr.
A. B. Luther, has had considerable experience, and certainly
nothing is lacking in completeness in regard to his handling
of the Rubio plantation, one, indeed, which may be regarded
as a model of its kind. Even this undertaking, however, has
not as yet proved a paying proposition, although it possesses
every chance and opportunity of becoming one.

The rubber-tree grows wild in many parts of the Republic,
and it abounds in the warm latitudes of the States of
Veracruz, Tamaulipas, Tabasco, Guerrero, Oaxaca, Chiapas,
Colima, Michoac&n and the Territory of Tepic. Except in a
very few cases, such as that of Rubio, systematic and scientific
cultivation of the tree has not been seriously undertaken.
The natives evince little or no interest in rubber, and regard
the product as of secondary value, although they have in a
crude manner extracted a fair quantity of the liquid, which
they make into small rubber balls, but without any prepara-
tion or treatment. Upon the Isthmus of Tehuantepec it is
estimated there are nearly 1,200 square miles of territory
admirably adapted to the growing of rubber-trees.

The tree begins to yield when 6 or 7 years old, but it is
not considered advisable to tap it untn it reaches the age of
9 or 10 years. If at that stage the tapping be properly
carried out once a year, either in October, November, or even
as late as December, the tree will last for 25 years, producing
1 lb. of gum when 10 years old, and from 2^ to 8 lbs. when
15 years of age. The milk yielded by each tree, 6 years
after planting, is estimated at 6 lbs., which, reduced to
rubber, loses about 65 per cent., while it is calculated that a

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244 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

plantation of 100,000 trees should produce a net profit at the
end of 6 years, at the present price of rubber, of about $200,000
gold (£40,000). But experience shows an entirely different
result to the estimate. I may again point out that no Mexican
plantation, to my knowledge at least, has ever produced this
amount of profit, nor yet anything approaching it.

There are some 1,500 species of rubber plants or trees, but
only a few of these are to be found in Mexico. The best is
that known as CastiUoa elasticay which is indigenous to the
soil. Labour is plentiful but inexperienced, and poor in
quality. The State of Chihuahua is credited with the largest
production of rubber. Tabasco coming second, and Oaxaca,
Puebla, San Luis Potosi and the Territory of Tepic following
in the order named.

The U.S.A. take the largest amount of the crude material,
France, Germany, Colombia and Holland being the next best
customers in the order given. The exportation of Mexican
rubber is certainly increasing, especially through the Port of
Veracruz, Germany having largely augmented its purchases
lately through the Port of Hamburg. The value of the
rubber exported through Veracruz for the month of March
last (1907) exceeded $800,000 (^680,000).

The price of rubber has gone up steadily from $1 gold
(4s. 2d.) a lb. for good ParA rubber to $1.50 (6s. 8d.), the
demand for many articles of commerce having increased three-
fold during the last 7 or 8 years. Many years, however, must
elapse, if indeed the time ever arrives, before the plantations
in Mexico can bear enough rubber to affect the market.

During the past two years, considerable attention has been
drawn to the guayule plant, which grows wild in Mexico,
and which has suddenly been discovered to possess '' valuable
rubber qualities." There is considerable discussion as to
who can really claim the distinction of having discovered the
guayule. A Mr. Henry Lemcke, of Tacubaya, Mexico City,
declares that he was the first scientist to discover the value of
the shrub; but others assert equally persistently that Juan
Fritz, of San Luis Potosi, a German, discovered the plant at
the end of the eighties, certainly a long time before Mr.
Lemcke was heard of.

There is no disguising the fact that the india-rubber trade

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GUAYULE 245

as a whole is much opposed to the guayole^ and many experts
with whom I have talked do not hesitate to denounce it as
little better than rubbish, and more likely to injure than
benefit the industry.

Mr. L. A. Ostien, Professor of Mathematics at the State
Agricultural College at Logan, Utah, n.S.A., who occupies
the position of Manager of the Plantation of the St. Paul
Tropical Development Co. in Mexico, declares that guayule
is of no use. This sweeping statement, however, is scarcely
borne out by the fact that during the past 12 months the
Anglo-Continental Rubber Co., among many other large con-
cerns, has acquired enormous interests in Mexican guayule-
lands, while those individuals who were fortunate enough to
already possess properties upon which the guayule grows
have sold them at figures little dreamed of years ago.

The Continental Rubber Co. of New Tork, which originally
started with a capital of $80,000,000 (£6,000,000), has long
been striving for the control of the rubber industry of Mexico,
and has been developing its holding of guayule in that
Republic, besides establishing factories for treating it in
Torreon, another at Saltillo and a third at Acampo, all three
of which are now working to their full capacity and produc-
ing nearly a million and a quarter pounds of guayule rubber
monthly.

Mr. Thomas F. Ryan, who recently retired from active
business with a fortune of £14,000,000, after beginning
life as a clerk in a small Baltimore store, is, with the
Guggenheims and the redoubtable Mr. Rockefeller, materi-
ally interested in the Continental Rubber Co., which has to-day
increased its capital to $260,000,000 (£50,000,000), and has
acquired rubber properties both in Mexico and in the Congo.
As much as $4,000,000 (£800,000) was paid by another
company last year for the Cedros ranch, upon which an
immense quantity of the guayule plant grows wild. Another
huge tract of 180,(X)0 acres in the State of Coahuila changed
hands recently, the idea being to exploit the guayule plant
upon it. The owner of the property was a lady, Seiiora
Ignacia Puchi de Gonzalez, of Chihuahua, and the purchasers
were American capitalists from El Paso. With regard to the
contemplated '' Trust," however, which was to have swallowed

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246 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

up the entire rubber industry of Mexico^ second thoughts
have apparently brought caution to the astute gentlemen who
were behind the organisation, for the annual report of the
United States Rubber Co. for the year ending March 81
last, and which was published towards the end of May, con-
tains the following significant paragraph : ''A suggested
consolidation with the Continental Rubber Co. was deemed
by our directors to be non-advisable in the present develop-
ment of the so-called 'mechanical' process of obtaining
crude rubber through the grinding up of shrubs producing
the gum, which is done extensively by the Continental Rubber
Co., but the company and the General Rubber Co. have now
agreed upon the terms of an arrangement which insures
complete harmony and co-operation hereafter between the
United States Rubber Co. and the Continental Rubber Co.,
and between those concerned with both companies.*'

Three years ago guayule was not regarded as of the
slightest commercial value, and millions of acres of it were
left absolutely neglected. On the other hand, it was even
regarded as a scourge, and would have been gladly disposed
of for nothing by the proprietors of the land which it encum-
bered. To-day, the land upon which it grows has increased
600 per cent., and as much as 1,000 per cent, in value. Many
of the owners who went to sleep one night comparatively poor,
arose the next morning to learn that they were rich beyond
the dreams of avarice.

But guayule is not the only plant which is said to contain
the elements of rubber. The pinguay plant has lately come
forward as a rival, it being claimed that it yields even a larger
percentage of rubber than guayule. An inventor named
William Threlfall Carr, of Middlesex, proposes to make arti-
ficial rubber from cereals, such as wheat, com, etc., for use
for bicycle and automobile tyres. Mr. Carr treats the cereals
with phyalin, and I understand that a company has actually
been formed with a capital of £250,000 to purchase Mr. Carr's
patent rights. Tet a third process of extracting rubber is
that from the bark of a tree, the McLscarenhasia longifoUa,
by means of the Deiss process ; while early in this year a
Company was formed under the title of the Aiiglo-Continental
Rubber Co., with a capital of £800,000, to deal with a new

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SUGAR 247

artificial rubber process which hopes to recover 16 tons of
rubber per diem, and to dispose of it in England and France.
It is an undoubted fact that hitherto all attempted substitutes
for rubber have turned out to be failures, for these, including
the Mexican guayule, have proved unfit for the fabrication of
the better-class of rubber-goods, and so far as experimente
have proceeded these articles, when manufactured out of
vulcanised, mechanically-made guayule rubber, soon become
brittie and unserviceable.

While India — which produced the best sugar in the world
until Napoleon Bonaparte introduced and fostered the manu-
facture of beet-sugar — the United States, the West Indies
and Brazil had long been famous for the quality and quantity
of the sugar grown there, Mexico has long ago earned her
laurels as a producer of the cane. The Bepublic grows both
the cane and the beet, the first-named having been introduced
by the Spaniards. The enterprising Gortds, who had a keen
appreciation of personal profits, possessed two plantetions,
one at Iscalpam and another at Guemavaca. In fact,
Mexico actually exported sugar to Spain in 1568. The whole
of the hot country and most of the coast-line are adapted to
sugar-cane growing, and seldom have I seen the plant grow to
so enormous a size as it does on the Gulf coast. Neither
ploughing nor irrigating is necessary ; and once planted, the
cane requires no more attention for 10 years, beyond the
annual in-gathering. The average plant will produce from
80 to 85 tons of cane per acre, yielding from 20 to 25 tons of juice,
and containing from 15 to 16 per cent, of crystallisable sugar.

A specimen of the cane seen by me, grown in the Stete of
Veracruz, contained some 15 stalks, measuring an average of
6 ft. 8 in. each, and weighing a total of 181^ lbs., or, say,
8} lbs. per stalk. I learned that the particular field from
which this remarkable product came had yielded the proprietor
an average of 48 tons to the acre. Here no irrigation had
been employed, and only the lightest cultivation had been
undertaken. Although the tonnage that I have quoted is
enormous, as any sugar-planter would admit, it is no exag-
geration to say that an average of 80 tons per acre may be

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248 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

relied upon in Yeraoruz under normal ciroumstances.
Naturally both the quantity and quality of production in
Mexico varies considerably according to the altitude of the
plantation. The State of Morelos is thought to be the oldest-
growing sugar district, but it is by no means the most
successful. Here manual labour is more requisite owing to
the necessity of irrigation and replanting every year. The
best States for the cane are those of Veracruz — about the
most successful of all — Tabasco, Jalisco, Pu6bla, Sinaloa»
Guerrero, Tucat&n and Michoacan. Cane grown at any
higher altitude than 8,000 ft. is unprofitable. The happy
medium of 1,000 ft. is undoubtedly the best to secure, all
such questions as transportation, amount of rainfall, labour^
etc., being equal.

Undoubtedly the quality of the cane-sugar grown in
Mexico is improving, both in regard to appearance and value.
Upon several of the haciendas may be found experts in the
cultivation of the cane, graduates of universities, and possess-
ing a thorough knowledge of the most modern methods of
treatment and the newest machinery. Some of these men
receive salaries of from $800 to $800 {£90 to £80) per month,
but even at this high figure they are cheap investments,
since they bring up the productiveness and the quality of the
sugar to a much higher value. In one or two instances of
which I know, estates upon the brink of bankruptcy were
saved from disaster by an expert in management being called
in at the last moment.

The average production of sugar in Mexico per annum may
be modestly put at 9,000,000 arrobas, of 26 lbs. each. When
the price is high, the consumption amounts to about 8,000,000
arrobas, and when the price is low the consumption goes to
10,000,000 arrobas. As the price has been low during the
present year, the consumption has been correspondingly great.
At the beginning of last August there were 1,886,000 arrobas
of sugar on the market, which will all have been consumed
by the opening of 1908. The price of sugar has advanced
recently to $1.75 per arroba in Mexico City and $1.68 on the
haciendas. A couple of months ago the prices were $1.62 in
the city and $1.82 on the haciendas. There has been but
little exportation of sugar to the European market during the

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PRICES OP SUGAR 249

present year, bat if the sugar crop of 1907 is a large one, as
is predicted, it is likely that there will be a considerable
amount exported to England next year. The price for
Mexican sugar in the British market at present is eleven
shillings, against only eight shillings a few months ago.
Statistics issued by the Mexican Treasury department show
that in the fiscal year 1905-1906 the sugar exported from
Mexico represented a value of $674,285 as declared in the
custom-houses. In the fiscal year 1904-1905 the value of the
sugar exported was $6,717,445, a large proportion being raw
sugar. There is every indication just now that the demand
from England for Mexican sugar will be renewed during the
latter half of the current fiscal year, and advance orders have
already been received by leading sugar exporters, who expect
to equal the exports of 1904-1905.

As an evidence from the above figures of the serious posi-
tion of Mexican sugar-planters I may point out that in 1905
Mexican sugar brought fifteen shillings per cwt. on the British
market, early in the season, but by June of that year it had
fallen to twelve shillings, and by the end of the year it had
reached eight shillings per cwt. In 1906 as in 1905 the total
amount of sugar raised and sold amounted to 11,000,000
arrobas, and I expect the same amount will have been pro-
duced in 1907. Much of this comes to England, although a
considerable amount is taken by the United States. The
proportion is about 19,000 tons to the former, and 9,000 tons
to the latter, or in all 28,000 tons.

At the time I left Mexico the ruling price of sugar was ex-
tremely low, so low indeed that the Mexicans were picking up
all that they could, and there remained none whatever for
export. The home consumption has been advancing con-
siderably of late years, but the planters have derived little or
no benefit on account of the fall in prices. As we know from
experience, the expansion in a business does not always spell
nett profits, and we have only to observe the effect upon the
business of our own country of late, which from the trade
returns would indicate a great expansion, but of which the
profits are almost invariably found to be in a diminishing ratio.
The Free Trade school preaches the doctrine to our manu-
facturers that they must be prepared for such results as these.

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250 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

which, after all, can only be expected under the law of
diminishing retoms.

A Syndicate of sugar men was formed in M63dco City in
1906 to control the sugar market of the Bepublic, but it came
to an untimely end by going into liquidation, the members being
burdened with about half a million arrobas of sugar on their
hands, which they found it impossible to dispose of before Uie
new season's crop came forward. A second Syndicate, this time
formed of haciendados, and which was started a short while
after the first, and which actually competed with it, fared no
better. Trusts and " comers " in Mexico have been very
difficult to maintain, and find but little favour with Govern-
mental officials.

Of the many sugar estates which I visited, only a few could
boast of modem machinery and plant. Upon the majority
the old methods of treatment were still preserved, but that
even under these conditions the proprietors continue to make
them pay is proved by the fact that no fewer than four
owners informed me that their estates and everything to be
found upon them '' stood them in nothing," since they had
actually cleared, in the brief space of four or five years, the
whole of the original outlay upon them. In spite of this, only
one out of the four was intelligent enough to install new
machinery. The others were perfectly contented to go on as
they were. The methods usually followed include the crush-
ing of the cane by heavy wooden rollers, fed to them by hand,
the juice being boiled down in huge vats to the necessary
consistency to form small tablets, or cakes (called locally
panelas or pilonciUas), the substance, of a dark brown, un-
appetising appearance, being known as panocha. Upon some
few estates, however, the most up-to-date and complete
installations had been introduced, with corresponding advan-
tages. The Mexican Tropical Planters' Co., for instance,
have entirely rebuilt their mill on the Columbia plantation, in
the State of Veracruz, their new machinery including filters
and hagasse carriers. At Omealca, also in the State of Vera-
cruz, an immense mill has been erected with a capacity of
250 tons daily, equalling a production of 10 tons of sugar
every 24 hours. The Sinaloa Sugar Co., and the Aguila
Refinery Co., both belonging to the same owners, have a

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BEET SUGAR 261

well-designed and capacioas plant, the production of each
amounting to a yearly return of 2,000 tons. The Oaxequena
plantation, near Santa Lucretia, Oaxaca, has a mill capacity
of 1,000 tons daily, with an elevator of 25,000 tons capacity,
the finest of its kind in the Republic of Mexico.

Indications are not lacking to prove that sooner or later
beet-sugar wiU prove a highly-important factor in the Mexican
sugar industry. From various conversations which I had
with planters and agricultural authorities, I formed the con-
clusion that beet-sugar cultivation for food will supersede that
of the cane. There are a great many important points in its
favour. Firstly, it will grow in most parts of the Republic — ^in
fact everywhere — ^but it is only in a portion of the districts that
it would be fit for human food purposes ; secondly, it can be
grown for ten out of the twelve months of the year ; thirdly,
in rotation with beet can be raised com and maguey, and they
can all three be planted conjointly. Beets can be raised from
12 to $S (48. to 6s.) per ton, or from $80 to $60 (£9 to £6)
per acre. With a tendency to convert all the sugar-cane
grown into alcohol, the beet is bound to become more and
more in demand. At present practically all beet grown is
turned into food for cattle, for which purpose nothing can be
finer. Cheap native labour is another important factor, but,
as in all kinds of enterprises, there are cms as well as pros
to be considered. Fuel and water questions, for example,
have to be faced, and these are important. The cost of
erecting a beet-sugar factory again is high, although, perhaps,
not higher than for a cane-mill. The market, however, is
practically unlimited, and such an enterprise ought to prove
successful in the long-run.

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CHAPTER LXV

Cotton manufaotore — Native production — Foreign imports — Qaality of
fibre — Protection against boU-weevil — ^The Porcell Company's planta-
tions — ^The Orizaba mills — Remarkable prosperity — ^Employees and
recent strikes — ^The factories described — ^Varieties of goods prodneed
Woollen mills — ^Zarapes and prices — Silk manufacture — ^An ancieat
industry.

As long as Mexico itself has been known, cotton has been
cultivated there, and abundant evidence exists to show that, even
before the Aztecs came into the Valley of Mexico, the art of
cotton-spinning was known and generally practised. The great
cotton belt of the country is in the Laguna district in the
State of Coahuila, a tract of land which has a length of about
40 miles, but somewhat narrow. The principal cotton-pro-
ducing districts other than this include the Cantons of Gosa-
maloapam, Tuxtla, Tuxpan, Tantoyuca and Veracruz, all on
the Gulf side ; and from Sonora to Chiapas on the Pacific
Slope. Last year was not a good one for cotton in Mexico,
the crop being 20 per cent, lower than it should have been ;
but the present year the crop has been a phenomenal one.

For the first time on record in Mexican history, cotton was
exported in considerable quantities this year. The fact is due
to the crop in the Laguna district having been unusually large,
and more than the immediate requirements demanded. Before
this date Mexican cotton had not been exported to European
markets, chiefly owing to the fact that the production in the
past had not been beyond the needs of home consumption ;
but, as I have said, the Laguna district having produced some
60,000 bales in excess of the needs of the home-market,
several thousands were shipped during the months of April,
May and June to Liverpool, Havre, Bremen and Hamburg
through the Ports of Tampico and Veracruz. Much of the

252

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Receivinc, Cotton on the Hacienda Santa Elena, Coahtila.

Seep. 255-]

Piling ri* Cotton at an Improvised Receiving Station.

Seep, 255.]

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COTTON CULTURE 258

Mexican cotton exported v^as billed to Messrs. Weber and
Shear, of Hamburg, v^ho took over 2,000 bales of cotton
within the period of three months. It has been discovered,
moreover, that Mexican cotton fetches a higher price than the
American product of the same classification, bringing about
20 cents more per 100 lbs.

The day must be long arriving before Mexico will be able
to dispense with cotton importation. It seems remarkable
that with a soil so thoroughly well adapted and a climate so
congenial, sufficient fibre should not be grown to dispense
permanently with foreign importations ; but, although Mexico
has an acreage sufficient to produce cotton in quantities
greater than the U.S.A., she is a consistent importer to the
annual value of something like $2,000,000 (gold) (ig400,000),
necessary to supply the normal demand of her own factories.

The bulk of the cotton brought into Mexico comes from
Texas, and the production in the Republic is not usually
large enough to supply domestic demands. This year proved
an exception. Last year the local production was a little
over 105,000 bales, and the importations from the U.S. A.,
the smallest for many years, amounted to 18,226 bales, as
compared with 67,894 bales for the previous year, and 54,971
bales in 1904. In spite of the fact that the crop proved a good
one for 1906-1907, and that some exports have actually taken
place, the importation will probably not have been less than
40 per cent, on balance of the amount needed.

It is practically certain that the production of cotton in
Mexico will be largely increased within the next few years, but
then BO will be the demand in proportion for local needs.
British mill-owners are becoming interested in Mexico as a
possible source of cotton, and a number of companies have
been organised with British capital to acquire land in Mexico
and establish cotton plantations. In some quarters these
efforts have proved successful, notably in connection with the
Mexican Cotton Estates of Tlahualilo, which made a profit of
£48,907 in 1906, and have very good prospects for the current
twelve months. There are about 126 cotton factories in the
Republic of Mexico, and some of the organisations interested
have very large capitals. Among these are the Compafiia de
Orizaba, with a capital of $8,600,000 (£850,000) ; the Com-

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264 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

pania Industrial Veracrazana, with a capital of SS^SOO^OOO
(£860,000); the Compafiia Industrial de Atlixco, with a
capital of $8,000,000 (£800,000); the Industrial San Antonio;
the Compania Industrial Manufacturera ; the Gonzalez fac-
tories at Salvatierra and Chamacuero in Ouanajuato, and the
Industrial de Guadalajara.

From all districts in Mexico the average production of
cotton is less than 120,(XX) bales. Outside of the Laguna
district cotton is cultivated in isolated patches, and scarcely
affects the market. All that can be raised on the haciendas in
the southern part of the Bepublic finds a ready market at the
nearest cotton mill, which, for the rest of its supply, must look
to the Laguna cotton and after that to the imported material.
The average haciendado of the South usually pays but scant
attention to the growing of cotton, whereas if he did he might
make it a profitable feature.

Some 6 years ago over-production caused considerable loss
in Mexico, and that the lesson was taken to heart was proved
by the formation of the Industrial Company of the North, an
organisation of 8 mills which formed a ** pool." Prices were
thus regulated, and the question of production was governed
by the direction of a central board, the idea being to prevent
a recurrence of over-production such as the mills had pre-
viously suffered from. Under the impression that the demand
for cotton cloth made in Mexico had grown to greater propor-
tions than was really the case, several new mills were estab-
lished, and it was not long before the market was overstocked,
with the natural result that something like 16 of the new
mills had to be shut down.

So far as the quality of the Mexican cotton seed is concerned,
I may say that every pound of seed that goes into the Laguna
district is carefully inspected, and when there are any traces
of boll-weevil found the whole consignment of seed is at once
burned. While I was in this district last year two car-loads
of seed were thus destroyed at the order of the Government
Inspector. The result of this great care is that boll-weevil
does not trouble the planters of that district to any very great
extent.

The fibre of Mexican cotton is longer and stronger than that
of the cotton of the U.S.A., but it is thinner, less silky, and not

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COTTON ESTATES 255

as clean as the latter, v^hioh fact has given rise to the eastern
of mixing the American cotton with the Mexican, especially
when manofactoring articles of fine texture. Besides the
cotton-cloth and prints which are tamed oat, a considerable
quantity of cotton-yam is used in the manufacture of the
rebozoSf a head-shawl worn by nearly every woman in Mexico ;
blankets and coarse napkins. The best rebozos come from the
town of Tenancingo, and sometimes they are made of silk and
linen. In the City of Mexico there are several factories
devoted to the manufacture by hand of rebozos, mantM and
zarapes.

Perhaps the most successful and best-known estates in
Coahuila embrace some of those which are held by Messrs.
William Purcell and Co. These include San Jos^ de los Alamos,
San Lorenzo, Santa Elena y Anexas and El Yenado. All these
properties are abundantly irrigated by means of the Biver
Nazas, through canals, the water being taken for a considerable
distance from the river, which is dammed in several places.
Some of these canals, which are admirably and substantially
constructed, exceed 25 kilometres (say 14^ miles) before enter-
ing the boundaries of the properties. Upon these extensive
haciendas are grown enormous quantities of the best quality
of cotton; and so profitable has proved the industry that
whereas both wheat, com and cotton were formerly raised
here, the owners have abandoned both of the cereals in favour
of cotton, the whole of the ground now being thrown into the
staple. It is an acknowledged fact that the firm of William
Purcell and Co. raise the finest cotton grown in the State of
Coahuila, and they succeed in securing year after year the
highest prices for the fibre. To their credit be it said they
have taken the prizes offered at Paris, Buffalo, St. Louis and
San Antonio Exhibitions, having been awarded the Silver
Medals in all cases.

The average prices ruling for Mexican cotton is from 20 to
28 centavos per (Mexican) lb. ; and the annual product of the
Purcell haciendas may be put at between 6,0(X) and 10,(XX)
bales, each bale weighing about 660 lbs. From August to
December (the busy picking-time) these haciendas employ
from 2,600 to 8,000 men, the average number throughout the
year being 1,000. The daily wages earned during picking-

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256 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

time is $2 (48.), and daring ordinary times $1.25 (28. 6d.) a
day. At the present time some 15,000 acres are under cotton
cultivation, the two principal haciendas, San Jos^ de Iob
Alamos and San Lorenzo, being joined by tram-lines running
a distance of 24 kilometres (15 miles).

The CompaiLia Industrial de Orizaba, the largest cotton-
mill in Mexico, is about 10 years old, having been formed in
1897 by the amalgamation of all the large cotton factories of
the Orizaba district — ^viz., the Cerritos, the Cocolapam, the
Bio Blanco and the San Lorenzo. The name under which it
is now known is the latter. The late Mr. Thomas Braniff
(the founder of the San Lorenzo factory) was the first Presi-
dent of the Company, having behind him all the powerful
French element of the Bepublic, and during the last decade
the capacity and the size of the factory have been tripled.
It owns a hydro-electric power-plant, possesses 7,000 looms,
has a monthly output of considerably more than $1,000,000
(£100,000) value, and its annual profits exceed $2,000,000
(£200,000).

The Company has invariably followed a policy instituted by
the founder, and applied by him to all the industrial enter-
prises with which he was connected, namely the reservation of
a large portion of the profits for future developments, instead
of dividing them up to the hilt in dividends. This fact
explains the enormous amount of the reserve and other funds,
amounting to $8,000,000 (£800,000), which, considering that
the original capital still stands at $8,600,000 (£850,000),
seems perhaps more than is necessary. Assuredly the
most cautious management will not seek to put aside any
amount beyond that which represents the whole of the
capital? In the event of future additions, which I under-
stand are contemplated, the substantial reserves could be
drawn upon, and this is no doubt in the minds of the
directors, rather than add to the capitalisation. Should the
Company continue to prosper as it is doing now, in about five
years' time it will have again doubled its capacity.

These combined cotton factories employ almost 10,000
workpeople, a fairly considerable number, and the equal of
which cannot be found anywhere in Mexico. The Bio Blanco
factory is the largest of the group, and forms a small town in

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ORIZABA LABOUR TBOUBLES 267

itself. It is managed by an Engliflhmany with a . sound
Lancashire experience, and most of the machinery is of
British make. The shareholders are mostly large, composed
of dry-goods dealers, and thus materially help along the
prosperity of the concern. The shares, nominally of $100.00
each, stand to-day at $270, and are unprocurable at that.

In the month of January of this year a serious disturbance
took place at the cotton-mills at Orizaba, belonging to the
Cia Industrial and others, which were wholly and solely the
outcome of political agitation, mainly the work of a number
of professionals named Juan Gomez, FelipS Martinez,
Santiago Silva, J. Carmen Martinez and Carlos Gomez. In
spite of the fact that the rioters agreed to submit their
grievances to the President of the Republic, and notwith-
standing the fact his excellency duly gave his decision —
which was on the whole against the applicants — ^they allowed
themselves to be led into a riot, with the result that ware-
houses were pillaged, a central store containing the output
of 63 different mills was burned down^ and the contents
entirely destroyed, and several other buildings were attacked
and damaged. The Jef6 Politico of Orizaba, Sefior Carlos
Herrera, dealt very diplomatically with the disturbance, and
but for his efforts the results would have been even more
disastrous than they were. Over one hundred and sixty of
the most dangerous among the rioters (formerly workmen at
the factories) were arrested and imprisoned. Several men
lost their lives, and still many others their employment,
while in the end the strikers gained absolutely nothing by
their outbreak. So sternly was the trouble suppressed, and
so emphatic was the lesson brought home to them, that it
is very doubtful whether the mill-workers of Orizaba, at least,
will become the dupes of political agitators upon any future
occasion. The leaders also learned the strength and earnest-
ness of the Mexican military authorities.

Discontent has by no means been eliminated, however, by
the temporary peace that prevails, as was proved by 1,600 of
the operatives striking again on May 27th last, at the Rio
Blanco mills ; but they returned to their looms on the follow-
ing day. Probably months will transpire before a complete
return to the statu ante can take place. The mill operatives

VOL. n. 88

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268 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

declare thai the masterB have not inoreased the wftges as
promised ; bat some at least have done so, namely those of
the factories Bio Blanco, Cocolapam and San Lorenso, all
belonging to the CompaSda Indostrial de Orizaba.

A fruitful cause of grievance among the men has been the
hateful '* tienda de raya," or, as we should call it, the '' truck
system." It is certainly a bad institution in whatever country
it prevails, and the sympathy with the men in their protest
against its continuance will be general. The mills which cling
to the system maintain that the men ^* are not compelled to
buy at their stores " ; but there is such a thing as ** moral
persuasion," which can be made very arduous and trying to
the operative who has his own idea of the matter and ventures
to oppose it to that of the management. On many of the
large haciendas in Mexico the truck system prevails, and
seems to be accepted by the peons with equanimity. At least,
I found them reconciled to it; I heard absolutely no com-
plaints upon any of the haciendas which I visited, and where,
for the most part, the people seemed happy enough and on-
desirous of any change. Such shops as there were to be
found near the estate were situated — ^probably intentionally
— a long way from the hacienda dwellings — and naturally the
peons preferred to buy what they wanted on the spot instead
of having to tramp a long way for it.

Of the seventy thousand people who form the population
of Orizaba, some ten thousand are continually employed at
the cotton-spinning and printing factory (La CompaiLia In-
dustrial de Orizaba, S.A.), and out of these some 10,000 only
some 220 are women. The Company owns 4 different mills,
the largest and most important being the Bio Blanco factory,
and the other three, smaller ones producing the plain material
only, being Cerritos, San Lorenzo and Cocolapam. The Rio *
Blanco mills cover an immense area of ground, the buildings
being practically all new and containing the very latest types
of cotton-spinning and printing machinery. While there are
no Americans or other foreigners employed in managerial
positions (except the General Manager, an Englishman), so
there is no American machinery to be found in the factory
itself, but merely in the workshops where American-made
planing machinery, considered superior to ours, may be found

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COTTON MILLS 259

Bide by side with that of British make. All the printiQg and
fmishing machinery is the product of Messrs. Mather and
Piatt, Ltd., of Manchester; the spinning machinery looms
and most of the weaving machinery are the manufacture of
Messrs. Piatt Brothers, of Oldham, Manchester, and Messrs.
Hockling and Co., of Bury, near Manchester, supplied the
looms, of which there are some 4,000. Other Manchester
firms have contributed to the completion of this fine factory,
Messrs. Howard and BuUough, Ltd., of Accrington, furnishing
the winding and sizing machinery and Messrs. Galloways, Ltd.,
the boilers, pumps, etc., while the turbines and turbine-
engines are the work of Messrs. Giintler and Co., of Oldham.
There are 6 hydraulic presses made by John Shaw, of
Manchester.

Comparing the Bio Blanco factory with others which I
have seen in India and in England, I should say that it is
more remarkable than any to be found here, inasmuch as it
turns out a greater range of goods and more varieties of
patterns than others. In calicos, sheetings, coloured-shirt-
ings, cretonnes, flannels, crapes, towellings, muslins, fancy
cloths, suitings, serges, shawls, linings, kandkerchiefs, linen
and cotton laces there are several hundreds of patterns, and
as many colours and combinations of colours.

About one half of the raw material is imported, 40 per cent,
of the cotton coming from the United States (Texas and
Louisiana) and 10 per cent, from Egypt, the latter arriving
through Liverpool. The whole of the factory's production is
consumed in the Republic of Mexico, and the Government
greatly assists the Company's interests by the imposition of
substantial duties upon foreign-made goods of this description.

For instance, cotton lace pays $6.00 (say 12s.) per kilo, and
linen lace $7.00 (14s.) ; sheetings pay 15 c. (about 8^d.) per
square metre ; prints 11 c. (say 2|d.) per square metre, and
towellings $1.80 (nearly 8s. 7d.) per kilo. Shirtings, if square
or striped, pay 17 c, and if of uneven patterns 20 c. per
square metre. These duties are found sufficiently heavy to
thoroughly protect the local industry, and that the Company
referred to finds the trade profitable may be believed when it
is enabled to maintain a minimum dividend of 12 per cent.,
and has on one occasion paid 25 per cent. This year no doubt a

88—2

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260 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

aimilarly large distribution could have been made, but for the
fact that the very large amount of additional building going
on is being paid for out of revenue, and is to cost some
$400,000 (£40,000). These profits are large, but there are
some home industries of a similar nature located in and
around Manchester which pay a steady 10 or 12 per cent.,
and this when competition has to be met. In regard to the
cotton factories at Orizaba, there is practically no competition.
The present price of the Compafiia Industrial de Orizaba
shares ($270) yields a return of a little under 6 per cent, on
the investment.

One remarkable feature of this factory is the manner in
which the highly inflammable raw material is stored. The
cotton is packed in bales of 60 or 100 lbs. each, and placed in
separate brick-built ''fireproof" compartments without any
communication with one another. All these compartments
being separated, should a fire occur in one, it would be almost
impossible for it to make any serious headway. So confident
are the Company that no widespread damage can arise from a
conflagration upon their premises that they do not carry a penny-
worth of insurance. Nevertheless, every possible provision
for combating a fire is made, and a perfect supply of water-
hydrants is provided throughout the entire range of buildings.

The Company have no fewer than 1,200 houses for the
use of their workpeople and staff, and so far as the latter are
concerned, they are well looked after and are fortunate in
living in a very pleasant climate, in spite of a rather heavy
rainfall during the summer months — June to October. The
height of the town, 4,200 ft. above sea-level, affords a moder-
ately cool atmosphere all the year round, although Orizaba
is considered subtropical, being on the edge of tierra caliente,
or hot country. In spite of the generous manner in which
the employees are treated, as will be observed above, they
have not been free from the influence of the ''walking
delegate," that intolerable nuisance who stirs up strife and
trouble between employers and employees, and whose per-
nicious efforts are unfortunately becoming almost as fruitful
of trouble in Mexico as has long been the case in the
Argentine. The Mexican Government, however, is less supine
than that of Argentina, and the ringleaders and agitators, aa

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COTTON MANUPACTUEBS 261

was the case last January in Orizaba, are promptly called
to account and as severely punished. With legitimate
grievances the authorities are not slow to sympathise, but
with the paid agitator, who has everything to gain and
nothing to lose, they know how to deal.

Although of somewhat smaller dimensions, the cotton
factory in the City of Toluca (the capital of the State of
Mexico), known as the Industria Nacional (Proprietors,
Messrs. Lopez and Man6ro), is of considerable importance.
The whole of the machinery is either British or Spanish (the
proportion being seven-eighths of the former and one-eighth
of the latter). The spinning machinery is that of Brooks and
Doxey, of Manchester, patterns 1889 and 1904, and of Samuel
Brooks, Manchester. The measuring and feeding-machines
are made by John Sumner and Co., Manchester, as well as
the hydraulic pressing machines. The looms, of which there
are some 210, are placed very close to one another, and it is
questionable whether any factory inspector, either in Great
Britain or the United States, would consent to grant a ** clean
bill of health " to an establishment which crowds so many
machines into so limited an amount of space, leaving hardly
sufficient room for the slimmest of individuals to pass.

There are no women employed at this factory, the majority
of operatives being young boys, ranging from 8 to 15 years of
age. Their daily wages are about 75 cents (namely. Is. 6d.),
and their hours extremely long — ^from 6.80 a.m. until 9 p.m.
On Saturdays, the usual pay-day, the hours are from 5.80 a.m.
to 4 p.m., but owing to the delay incurred in paying off all the
hands, many of them fail to find release until late in the
evening. There are several machinists employed whose
hours are somewhat lighter, and their pay $8.00 (say 6s.) per
diem.

The cloth turned out is mostly white-sheeting, of various
grades, and some coloured woven cloths, but no printing is
done. The weekly output of the factory is about 1,800 pieces,
each piece measuring 27 metres in length, and selling whole-
sale at from $8.25 to $4.25 (say 6s. 6d. to 8s. 6d.) the piece.
The entire output is sold to customers in the Republic.

Besides cotton, Mexico manufactures a large number of
knit goods such as hosiery, underwear, etc., while the woollen

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262 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

indnstry is of considerable importance. Hundreds of thousands
of v^ooUen cloaks, or blankets (zarapes) are turned out annually,
most of them being of a bright vermilion colour, while others
combine all the hues of the rainbow. The zarapes of brilliant
hues are bought in large quantities by visitors to Mexico, who
are attracted by their remarkable colouring and comparative
cheapness. The cheapest, and commonest, kind of zarape,
such as every peon carries about with him, costs from
$2 (4s.) to $6 (10s.) ; but as much as $60.00 (£5) is asked for
the more elaborate articles, and generally speaking, they
are well worth the price. The principal woollen mills are
situated in Aguascalientes, Durango, Guanajuato, Hidalgo
and Pu6bla.

Wool-spinning has been a Mexican industry for more than
three centuries, and in the year 1641 the first Spanish Vice-
roy introduced merino into the country, and established there
the first manufactory of woollen doth.

Silk-weaving is also an ancient industry, but it is not very
generally pursued. As far back as the time of Charles Y. of
Spain, silk was cultivated and sold in the markets of Mexico,
Cortes speaking of the fact in his letters to his Sovereign ;
while in some of the museums pictures may still be seen
woven entirely in silks by the ancient Mexicans. Considering
the adaptability of the climate, it is surprising that silk-
culture is not more largely indulged in, for silkworms thrive
apace in Mexico, which is unexcelled by any country in the
world for the raising and developing of cocoons. There are
about a dozen silk factories scattered about the Bepublic, and
there is one in the City of Mexico which turns out a very fair
grade of goods.

Last May an influential Syndicate, composed of French
capitalists, contributed among them a sum of $10,(XX),000
(£1,000,000), for the establishment of a silk factory in the
State of Chihuahua, the manufacture being artificial and not
natural silk. A similar undertaking was tried in England
some years ago, in connection with a most ingenious, artificial
silk spinning-machine, but it failed dismally.

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CHAPTER LXVI

Tobaooo cultivation— Districts and soil— Product for 1007— Various
qualities — Flavour — Mexican verBua Cuban tobaccos — Manufacture
of cigarettes — ^El Buen Tono Company — Model Factory — Latest
machinery — ^Wages of employees — ^Various brands — ^A profitable
enterprise.

In spite of the tact that tobacco ia manofactored all over the
Bepublio of Mexico, factories being met with in practically every
town and hamlet, Mexico is not considered a good comitry for
tobacco from a manufacturer's point of view, owing to the
fact that the majority of smokers prefer a cheap tobacco,
which yields a smaller profit to the manufacturers. On the
other hand, Mexican tobacco has been pronounced by the
highest authorities as the best produced in any country, the
Mexican cigar and cigarette beiug favourites with connoisseurs.
The plant being indigenous to the country, the Spaniards
were not slow to avail themselves of the existence of the
favourite weed. Owiag to the interference of the Crown of
SpaiQ, cultivation was restricted to a great extent, for in 1764
it was ordained that the culture should only take place in the
States of Orizaba, Cordoba, Huatusco and Zongolica, severe
penalties being imposed for its cultivation elsewhere. This
state of affairs continued for many years, but in 1868 several
foreign cultivators and manufacturers, principally from Cuba,
came over to Mexico, where they began to cultivate the plant
upon an extensive scale.

The tobacco plant is now raised all over the Republic,
the bright green foliage being met with in every direction ;
but the principal districts are those of Victoria, in the State
of Tamaulipas, Campeche, in the State of the same name, the
Territory of Topic, and on the Pacific slope of the States of
Chiapas, Oaxaca, Guerrero, Michoac4n, Jalisco, Colima and

268

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264 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTUEY

Sonora, as well as the interior distriots of Mor6los, Michoacan,
Oaxaca, Veracruz, Tamaolipas, Tabasco, Guerrero, Jaliseo and
Golima.

Mexico provides the very best soil adapted to the growing
of tobacco, that is to say sandy, with organic vegetable matter
in decomposition, and containing oxides of iron, aluminium
and a little lime. Such a soil produces an aromatic and mild
flavour in the tobacco which is much esteemed, and accoonts
for the great favouritism with which Mexican tobacco meets.
It is unexcelled as a material for ** fills,*' practically no wra|^)er-
tobacco being grown in the country. Strangely enough, the
finest Mexican cigars go to Havana and pass as ''Cuban ";
while all the Central American and some of the South American
States buy these cigars, thinking that they are from the Island
of Cuba, as indeed they are, but not grown there. These
purchasers pay as much as $1.67 gold per lb.

The manufacture of cigarettes and cigars is practically the
same in all cases, but in some factories, such as those in the
City of Mexico, the very latest kind of machinery is employed.
During the year 1905-6 something like 20,600,000 lbs. of the
manufactured article were turned out, and for the present year
it is estimated that there will be produced 1,000,000 arrobas,
that is to say, 25,000,000 lbs. of tobacco, and the distribution
of collection may be put as follows :

Arrobcu.

San Andres Tuztla ... ^ ... ... 100,000

Aoayucna and Tlaxpam ... ... ... 80,000

Cord6ba ... ... ... ... 800,000

Tlapacayam ... ... ... ... 150,000

Tepio ... ... ... ... ... 150,000

OjiiLan and Yalle Nacional ... ... 100,000

PlayaYioente ... ... ... ... 100,000

Other districts in Oaxaca and Chiapas 60,000, and distriots in
the State of San Luis Potosi about 20,000 arrobas.

Perhaps the finest quality of tobacco leaf comes from the
first-named district, San Andres Tuxtla, which is in the State
of Veracruz. The Germans, Norwegians, Danes and Swedes
are year by year becoming heavier purchasers of Mexican
tobacco, which is at the same time improving in quality, due
perhaps not so much to improved cultivation as to the better
handling of the product. The tobacco lands of the territory

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TOBACCO 365

of Tepio are naturally excellent, and with more capital and
labour these could be brought to a high state of perfection and
profit. The partial failure of the crop in Cuba a year ago
proved of immense advantage to Mexico ; but apart from such
exceptional instances as this, the trade of the Republic has
long been on a very firm and profitable basis.

It is principally with the tobacco coming from the district
of Pinar del Rio, Cuba, that Mexican tobacco has to compete.
Several large fortunes have been made in Mexico by watching
events on the neighbouring Island of Cuba, and when the
crop fails there, the Mexican producers hold up their ship-
ments to Europe. In 1906 one of the oldest and best known
tobacco buyers in Mexico, who had consistently shipped great
quantities to Germany, decided not to export, and this policy
was followed by a large number of other exporters who held
back their crops for better prices.

Mexican tobacco has a flavour peculiarly its own, which
grows upon the smoker when it has been used for any length
of time, and in some parts of the U.S. A. Mexican tobacco is
rapidly superseding the Cuban article. It is interesting to
note that the U.SA. consumes more tobacco than any other
country in the world, and a great portion of this comes from
Mexico. The consumption of tobacco in the IT.S.A. per head
is 6.40 lbs. per annum, which is only exceeded by one country,
namely that of Belgium, which is 6.21 lbs. Germany comes
next with 8.44, then Austria with 3.2, Canada with 2.74,
Australia with 2.69, France with 2.16, and the United Kingdom
with 1.96. The world's total consumption of tobacco must
amount to something gigantic, and for twelve countries alone
this amounts to 1,209,678,000 lbs., giving an average con-
sumption of 2.79 per head.

The rapidity with which an article of general consumption
can mount in public favour when once launched upon the
market is proved by the astonishing success of the great
Mexican tobacco factory known as El Buen Tono, a limited
company with a capital of $6,600,000 (say £660,000). Like
many — I may say most-— commercial undertakings, this
business has grown by degrees, and while the last 10 or 12
years, for which I have been enabled to secure the figures, do
not represent a consistent increase upon the annual output.

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266

MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTUET

varying as this does somewhat between the years 1899-1900
and 1900-1901, the increase of 500 per cent, in the output of
to-day, compared with that of the year 1894| shows how
successful the undertaking has been on the whole.

The following table of actual sales to the date December Slat,
1906, and the increases made in the Company's capital,
practically tell their own tale :

Year.

Sales.

Oaiiital.

1894
1895
1896
1897
1898
1899
1900
1901
1902
1908
1904
1905
1906

$
1,059,886
1,874,426
1,445,241
1,472,651
1,650,829
1,714,029
1,661,274
1,526,975
1,851,167
2,769,942
8,780,762
4,408,249
5,425,918

$

1,000,000

\ 2,500,000

4,000,000

5,000,000
6,500,000

The actual sales of El Buen Tono Company for the last few
months of 1906 were as follows : — September $466,614.61 ;
October $478,266.82 ; November $481,890.48 ; and December
$601,988.29, making a total for the year of $6,426,918.69, or
an increase on the year of 1906 of no less than $1,017,668.89.

The factory, which was entirely rebuilt some few years ago,
belongs to the category of palatial edifices, and in no country
have I seen, nor do I believe exists, a more handsome, a more
convenient, or a more complete factory than that of El Baen
Tono Company. The whole of the buildings are upon one
floor, and occupy an entire block in the business part of the
City of Mexico. The various departments are lofty, light and
exceptionaUy clean, the floors being either of polished hard-
wood or of cement, and even the stables being thus paved.
The 240 cigarette-making machines, all of French design
(the manufacture of M. Decoufl6, 7 Bue de Deparcieux, Paris)
are placed in one department, being operated entirely by

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EL BUEN TONO FACTOEY 267

women, all of whom are Mexicans. There are between 500
and 550 of these continually employed, either as machinists,
packers, folders or sweepers.

All the tobacco-cutting machines, the drying machines,
the packing case making, the lithographing, etc., are carried
on by men, mostly experts in their various callings, of whom
some 500 are employed under the control of Frenchmen, with
Mexicans as overseers.

The working hours for all alike are from 7 a.m. to 7.80 p.m.,
with an interval of one hour (from 12 to 1 p.m.) for dinner.
Upon occasions the hands work overtime, and are paid extra
wages upon a sliding scale of rates. The maximum that any
one worker earns per diem is $2.00 (say 4s.), and the average
$1.50 (say 8s.), the many young boys who are engaged upon
making tiie paper-boxes and carrying them from one depart-
ment to another being paid 25 centavos (or 6d.) a day. The
women are aU thoroughly clean and happy-looking, entirely
different, both in appearance and manner, to the dreadful-
looking drabs — untidy, uncleanly and half-starved — that one
encounters in English or American factories, and who excite
one's pity by their hopelessly sad destiny.

The machines used for the making of the cigarettes, as I
have said, are of French design and construction, are mainly
of the latest pattern and of the most ingenious character.
Unfortunately, I have not the space to describe their
mechanical details, neither is it perhaps necessary to do so in
a general work of this character. Every year almost some
further improvement in cigarette machinery is introduced,
but one would say that finality has been reached in connection
with the Decaufl6 type of 1906. This machine turns out
80,000 completely-finished cigarettes, rolled, cut, printed and
ready for packing, daily. The former type of machine was
capable of turning out but one-half of this number, and the
printing of the name of the firm on the paper was faint and
indistinct. The latest pattern of machine costs El Buen Tono
Company $8,000 (£800) each, as against $2,800 (£280), but
the increased speed of the working, the smaller floor-space
occupied, and the greater solidity of the whole machine, more
than represent the difference in the price. The total output
from the 240 machines at work is about 11,0(K),(X)0 cigarettes

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268 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

daily, but in a few months' time this enormous number will be
still further augmented.

The various brands of cigarettes made by El Baen Tono
Company are intimately known to all Mexicans, and to a great
number of Americans living in Mexico, who are great votaries
of Mexican tobacco. Within recent months an English
Agency has been opened in London, and I venture to predict
that ere long Mexican cigarettes will greatly displace the
French rubbish and a good deal of the cheaper trash known
as '' British " cigarettes, which our younger generation so
lavishly patronise. In spite of the duty upon imported
tobaccos, Mexican cigars and cigarettes can be imported and
sold in England more cheaply than much of the foreign
grown tobacco, taking quality for quality.

The '' Jockey Club " brand, folded by special machinery
and without the use of any paste, nicely wrapped in silver
foil ; La Parisienne, an extra dry tobacco with cork-tips ;
Turkish, also with cork-tips, and especially made for British
and American smokers; a specially fine brand known as
''Eclipses," and a luxurious class of Egyptian tobacco de-
scribed as *' Deliciosos Turcos," are all smoked to an enormous
extent in the Republic of Mexico, and are among the several
brands about to be introduced to British consumers.

The whole of the immense business of El Buen Tono
Company is controlled by a Board of Directors in Mexico
City, composed of some of the most influential and wealthy
business men, the Managing Director, M. E. Pugibet, mainly
looking after the Company's immense interests in Paris, and
M. Andr6s Eizaguirre, the Assistant General Manager and
Secretary, is in charge at Mexico City. Both of these gentle-
men are French, and are among the world's recognised
authorities upon everything relating to the cultivation and
manufacture of tobacco. The majority of the shareholders
of this remarkably successful concern, which has repaid its
original capital more than two and a half times and returns
on the present enlarged capital over 12^ per cent, per annum,
reside in Paris and Geneva. The present price of the $100.00
shares stands at $650.00, or, say, 660 per cent, premium.

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CHAPTER LXVn

Oil-field»— Prospeoting— BesultB to date — Prinoipal oil-districts— Indians'
Imowledge of oil— Mr. Wiley as anthority— Oil-ourrents of Mexico —
Various enterprises at work — Ebano oil-fields — Mexican Petroleum
Co. — Central Hallway's use of oil and contracts — ^The Pearson
interests on the Isthmus of Tehnantepec — Minatitlan refinery —
Furbero oil-fields— W. B. Hearst's investigations. Discovery of coal —
Coahoila and Dnrango fields — Anthracite coal in Sonora — Coal in
Pa^bla — Unsaooessfnl enterprises.

Fob about twenty years proBpecting and boring for oil have
been proceeding in Mexico, more or less in a desultory manner,
shallow wells being sunk or bored at various places along the
Tehuantepec route, but especially in Tabasco. About 16
years ago a well was bored, and a small refinery erected, at
Ozoluama, in the State of Veracruz, but the oil proved of poor
quality, and the refinery soon closed down. So far no other
refinery has been built for treating exclusively native oils.
Near Papantla, also in the same State, where seepages of a
lighter petroleum exist than are found further north, prospect-
ing has been proceeding for several years, but without
petroleum having been struck in any quantity. Some 8
or 10 wells collectively produced but 8 or 4 barrels a day
at the best. Surface indications are frequently found of a
most encouraging nature, only to lead to disappointment upon
boring. On the Pacific Coast of the State of Oaxaca south
of Jupuila, seepages of a fine quality of petroleum containing
paraffin exist. At Zapotietic and Santa Ana, in the State of
Jalisco, indications of petroleum have been found, while in the
State of Nuevo Leon, south-east of Monterey, large seepages of
a heavy kind of oil have formed small lakes from time to
time, and pools of asphalt have occurred. The Indians had
some knowledge of the use of the oil, for they mixed it with

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270 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

resin and dabbed it on their canoes, terming the mixture
chicle de pato.

It cannot be accurately stated, therefore, upon the subject
of crude petroleum in Mexico, that probability has as yet
resolved itself into certainty. Investigators and capitalists
have still to feel convinced that oil in abundant and paying
quantities exists. Some years ago a Mr. J. W. Wiley, who is
certainly not unknown either in Mexico or the United States,
declared that — " after making a thorough study of the petro-
leum-fields, and after many explorations, I find that there is
a larger extension of paying oil-springs in the Republic of
Mexico than in any other part of the world ; that this is not a
supposition, but a reality." This enthusiasm upon Mr. Wiley's
part has yet to be justified by results.

Two oil-currents are supposed to flow through Mexican
territory, one down the Pacific Coast and the other down the
Atlantic Coast, coming together below the Isthmus of Tehuan-
tepec, and forming a subterranean lake and deposit of oil,
with a much larger extension than the famous oil-fields of
Pennsylvania. There are believed to be more seepages in
Tabasco than in any known part of the world, and more sub-
terranean deposits, unless, perhaps, an exception can be found
in those of the Caspian Sea in Russia, at the *' Noble " well,
which has a flow of some 1,000,000 gallons daily. Estimating
the amount invested by American and British capitalists to
date, perhaps some $6,000,000 (£1,200,000) have been invested
in oil-fields in Mexico.

It may be said that the entire Atlantic coast of the Republic
shows traces of oil and asphaltum, while in the northern part
of the Republic there exist numerous springs of the same sub-
stances. Mineral-oils and petroleum have been found in
many localities, principally in the Valley of Guadeloupe,
Hidalgo ; Lake Chapala ; Puerto Angel and Pochutla, in the
State of Oaxaca, as well as in other places. In the month of
June 1898, a concession was granted to a London firm by the
Mexican Government for the establishment of the industry of
petroleum extraction, the grant holding good for ten years.
The firm of S. Pearson and Son, Ltd., the Messrs. Furber and
other capitalists have sunk a great deal of time and devoted
an immense amount of capital to the pursuit of the much-

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I'RIMITIVE FOKMs OF M IM Nc..— Raising ore by the chicken-ladder.

PRIMITIVK FORMS OF MlNlN*'.. — Raising ore from the shaft l)y horse-vvhini.

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PETEOLEUM 271

needed wells of petrolenm. Prospects, indeed, in endless
number exist; but the pursuit of the mineral has been so
persistent, and so much outlay has been expended thereon,
that capitalists naturally feel that some definite results should
have been achieved.

The most successful wells are at the Ebano fields, belonging
to the Mexican Petroleum Co., which have for the last two
years been supplying the Mexican Central system with all the
oil used by their new oil-burning locomotives. Last year the
Central Railway Co. entered into a contract with the Mexican
Petroleum Co. for a further term of 16 years. It is found
that a saving of nearly 80 per cent, on the fuel bills is effected
by burning oil instead of coal.

The Mexican Petroleum Co. in June last was reorganised
with a capital of $50,000,000 (£10,000,000), taking in a
number of other oil-companies or owners in the States of
Tamaulipas, San Luis Potosi and Veracruz, involving several
millions of acres of oil-bearing lands. The Mexican Petro-
leum Co. threaten to become the virtual kings of the petro-
leum interests in Mexico, and to dominate all rivals.

The Kansas City, Mexico and Orient Railway are employing
a number of experts along the territory through which their
line runs upon petroleum well-sinking, and the yield has
been far from discouraging. The discovery of efficient wells
would mean a great deal to this company, and it may be
taken for granted that their efforts will not be confined to one
district alone, but that they will expend a sufficient sum of
money upon their important quest throughout their terri-
tories. The Interoceanic Railroad is about to extend its line
from Teziutlan to some oil-fields in the district.

Although but little publicity has been given to the work
which has been proceeding for some considerable time past in
the south of Mexico in regard to the exploration for oil, this
has been of a far-reaching and highly important character.
Upon it having been reported, in 1900, to Messrs. S. Pearson
and Son, Ltd., the contractors who have already carried out a
large number of public works in Mexico, that oil indications
had been discovered on some land owned by them, the firm
sent out a geological expert to report generally, and, this
having proved satisfactory, they began exploring by drilling

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272 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

on the Isthmus of Tehoantepec. From that time to this they
have continued actively at work, having in addition opened
up properties in Tabasco and Northern Veracruz.

Messrs. S. Pearson and Son hold from the State Govern-
ment important and extensive concessions for the States of
Veracruz, Tabasco, Chiapas and Gampeche, as well as conces-
sions in Tamaulipas and San Luis Potosi. On the 600,000
acres of land which they own, and upon the several properties
over which they have secured sub-soil leases, there have been
found numerous indications of oil. The firm have over
1,000,000 acres of leased land, practically all that they have
thought would prove of interest or value to them. The
Isthmus fields have been developed, and oil has been found in
such quantities that the firm are erecting a refinery at Mioa-
titlan, designed upon the most modem plans, and capable of
treating from 600 to 700 tons of oil per diem. When I visited
the scene of operations in the month of January of this year,
the place was a hive of industry, and it was not difficult to
appreciate where and how the large sums of money which have
been expended, had been employed. The refinery itself, the
first section of which should be at work before the end of the
present year, is of an especially complete character, while
other works undertaken include the construction of several
kilometres of railway, the erection of wharves and landing-
places, numerous substantial houses for employees, and
capacious offices for the use of the firm.

The little town of Minatitlan is located on the river of
Goatzacoalcos, some 20 miles above Puerto Mexico (formerly
known as the Port of Coatzacoalcos), the terminal port of the
Tehuantepec National Railway on the Atlantic. Ships of
from 6,000 to 7,000 tons cargo capacity will be able to
lie alongside the refinery. For the purpose of distributing
the oil around the Gulf of Mexico, Messrs. Pearson have built
a steamer of 8,000 tons capacity. The oil-field that will supply
the refinery is connected with it by pipe-line. So soon as the
refinery is completed, the firm will be in a position to market
its products, for which there already exists a pronounced local
demand. The oil has a paraffin basis, and produces very
satisfactory percentages of motor-spirit, benzine, illuminating
and lubricating oils.

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COAL EXPLORATIONS 278

The Farbero oil-fields, the original ooncesBion to work which
was mainly in the hands of the late Mr. Frederick William
Cheesewrighty a distinguished English engineer, and the several
Messrs. Furber, are being actively worked by the latter, who
have sunk an immense sum of money in the enterprise. That
oil of a superior and marketable character exists is established
beyond question, but local railway transportation is lacking
to make the fields sufficiently remunerative. Li time no
doubt this deficiency will be supplied.

Mr. William Randolph Hearst, the millionaire newspaper-
proprietor of New Tork and San Francisco, has expended
considerable sums of money upon investigating the oil-
producing possibilities of a large area of land in the State
of Chihuahua, which he and his mother hold conjointly. A
thoroughly-equipped expedition was working that ground last
year, but with what precise result I do not know. The out-
come, however, could hardly have been successful without the
fact becoming known in the neighbourhood, where one man's
business is every man's business, and secrecy in an operation
of this widespread character almost impossible to preserve.

One of the most pleasant surprises which awaited the
Republic last year, when a number of eminent geologists
from all parts of the world attended the Geological Congress
in Mexico City, was the announcement that Mexico contained
vast coal-fields. How vast, and of what precise commercial
value, has not yet been determined. The bare statement, how-
ever, must have been specially agreeable to the Mexicans, since
hitherto they hardly suspected their wealth, and have been
depending upon the U.S.A. and Great Britain for their coal-
supply. The realisation of their coal possessions must have
come to them as a further step towards independence of
supplies from foreign countries.

What the discovery of these coal-fields means to Mexico can
well be imagined. It is with them, as with all nations, one of
the greatest necessities of progress. Coal formations and
peat are to be found in the States of Coahuila, Pu6bla,
Michoacin, Guerrero and Veracruz, besides other portions of
the Republic which are less known. The State of Coahuila
has become the pioneer in the coal -mining industry of the
Republic, and the mines at Barrotean, belonging to the

VOL. n. 89

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274 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

Monterey Steel Company, and Las Esperanzas, belonging to
the Mexican Coal and Coke Co., have come especially pro-
minently into notice. In December 1904 another Company,
also located in the State of Coahuila, was organised, under
the name of Compania Carboniferado Agnjita, for the pur-
pose of exploiting the coal-beds at Sabinas. The Compania
Nacional Exploradora de Carbon y Coke, with a capital of
11,000,000 (J£100,000), owns some promising coal-fields on
the San Bias Hacienda, in the State of Coahuila. The
Union Pacific Coal Co., with headquarters in Omaha, U.S.A.,
have secured control of between 26,000 and 80,000 acres of
land in the vicinity of Durango. The advantageous geo-
graphical position of Coahuila, and the fact that it is provided
on both sides by excellent railway facilities, speaks well for
the future operation of its coal-beds ; and although the out-
put of the entire Republic must, for many years, remain but
a very unimportant factor as compared with the actual con-
sumption, I consider that the coal-mining industry will
eventually make progress in the same proportion as other
mining enterprises.

Deposits of anthracite coal in Sonora have attracted much
attention, and several local and foreign companies with small
capitalisations have been organised to open them up, and, if
found remunerative, to work them permanently. Mexican
peat deposits are not much utilised. In many districts char-
coal is provided cheaply, and used for smelting and iron
coking; but the charcoal industry is in a worse position
to-day than it has ever been in before, in some districts a
positive famine prevailing. This has necessarily meant a
heavy loss to the manufacturing and metallurgical industries,
which have undoubtedly outstripped the transportation facili-
ties, and the supply. It would seem as if the smelters of
Mexico would shortly have to investigate the practicability
of using some other kind of heat than that produced by coal
— for instance oil or electricity.

Coal has been found in the State of Pu^bla, and up to
1890 some 69 different coal-mines had been opened up in
that State. Poor facilities for transportation, difficulties
encountered in mining labour and the indifferent quality of
the coal found all conduced to failure. Along the Gulf of

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COAL DEPOSITS 275

California, extending north to the Arizona line, coal was
found and used by the local smelters as early as 1870. In
1890 an English Company secured a concession over 4,000,000
acres of land in this belt, but the enterprise failed, a Mexican
Company which took up the land afterwards likewise coming
to grief. The coal found here proved to be anthracite, and
contained about 15 per cent, ash and sulphur.

89—2

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CHAPTER LXVm

MixiiDg — History of diaooveries from 1524-1907 — ^Early diBooverieB —
Spanish tribates — New difltricts opened np — DtBOOvery of paHo
prooeM — First school of mines — ^Anthracite coal discovered — Gteologie
Commission — First electric plant-— Chihnahoa mining — Principal
districts — ^Waterson and Palmarejo Mines — San Francisco del Oro —
Santa Eulalia District — ^Deepest Workings — Geological formations —
Abasola and Jiminez districts--Coahmla mines — ^Aranzaza copper
mines — ^Alvarado*s PamiUo mine.

The history of mining in Mexico constitutes so enormous a
subject to discuss, that not one volume alone, but many
volumes, would be necessary to do it full justice, and even
then I doubt whether any one writer could possibly present
anything like a complete record of the vicissitudes, the
dangers, the joys and the disappointments to which the pur-
suit of Mother Earth's hidden treasures have given rise in
Mexico.

What we do know, more or less accurately, is that, while
an abundance of ^ gold, silver and copper was certainly mined
in a primitive manner by the ancient Toltecs and their suc-
cessors the Aztecs, it was only in the year 1522 that a
definite discovery of silver was made in Mexico. This took
place in Taxco, in the State of Guerrero, and the discoverer
was a Spaniard, who sent a sample of his treasure to the
Spanish King, with many pious and loyal good wishes.

The next locality to be laid under tribute was Fachuca
(State of Hidalgo) in 1524, which was followed by Zacatecas
(State of same name) in 1540. Some 8 years later the white
metal was found in abundant quantities at Guanajuato (in the
State of Guanajuato), but between 1548 and the year 1565
nothing remarkable took place (except the invention of the
*' patio-process '* of treating the ores, which was. due to the

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PROGRESS OF MINING 277

ingennity of one Bartolome de Medina, who lived at Pachaca),
while in 1568, some rich silver and gold ores were found
at Santa Barbara, in the Parr^ district of the Chihuahua
State.

In 1600 the now important mining camp of Parr&l was
itself founded, and has been a consistent producer (with but
brief intervals of inactivity) from that day to this. Other
camps, which have not as yet made much stir in the mining
world, followed at intervals, namely at Guazaporez in 1628,
and Urique in 1680. Botapilas (in Chihuahua) was discovered
in 1682, and is to-day one of the most celebrated mining
districts in the Republic of Mexico.

Mining continued actively among the Spaniards from this
time onwards, vast hoards of the precious metals being sent
away to the Mother Country by almost every vessel. To
how much this amounted will probably never be known.
Records of a certain kind were kept, but these were very
imperfect, and no doubt much of the gold and silver mined
was stolen by the King of Spain's Viceroys and their officers ;
but even then his Catholic Majesty was enormously enriched
by the contributions received from New Spain. In the year
1778 the reigning King, Charles YL, issued his famous
<< Mining Decrees." The encouragement held out to the
Spanish explorers evidently proved of value, for a few years
afterwards, namely in 1778, the famous Catorce (** Fourteen ")
mine was unearthed in the State of San Luis Potosi, and
proved one of the richest found up to that period. Then
followed the discovery of the Cucisamey mines in Durango,
and the same year witnessed the long-promised establishment
of the School of Mines, the first to be established in Mexico.

Mining now took on a more serious and more scientific
aspect. Human labour gave place to horses and mules, both
of which were employed far more generally than was formerly
the case. Principally were they used for working the patio-
process, but also for turning the whims and for carrying the
ores to the treatment grounds.

In the height of the mines' success, the famous German
Professor and great South American explorer. Baron von
Humboldt, arrived in Mexico, and became keenly interested in
the mines, pronouncing them to be " among tiie richest and

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278 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

greatest in the world." He prophesied the wealth of the
country, and to-day is witnessed the acooraoy of his estimate.
In 1824 the famous Palmarejo district (in the State of
Chihuahua) came into notice, and was almost immediately
followed by more discoveries in the State of Zacatecas, namely
the Fresnillo mines. It was here that the second great
Mining School of Mexico was established, in 1858. Many
minor discoveries were made between this period and 1871,
when the first artesian well was sunk at the Mexican mint.
Improvements in mining machinery also commenced to have
their influence upon mining generally, and in 1877 com-
pressed air was used for the first time at the Catorce mines,
in San Luis Potosi.

Coal was found in moderately paying quantities in the
State of Goahuila in 1880, at a place called Sabinas. In
1888 was celebrated the first centennial of the School of Mines,
while in the following year, 1884, successful efforts brought
about the unification of mining legislation, which, up to that
time, had been in a state of hopeless confusion. The intro-
duction of the first effective and powerful pumping plant for
drainage took place in the Real del Monte mines at Pachuca
(in the State of Hidalgo), and at the same time discovery was
made of the celebrated Concheno mines. One of the first
successful mining exhibitions in Mexico was organised by the
Governor of Zacatecas in 1890, and was held in the Municipal
Palace of that city. That year also proved memorable on
account of the Guanajuato mines becoming better-known
through the ** bonanza " strikes on the Cinco Sonores Pozos ;
the introduction of what * is known as the continuous pan-
system, by Mr. M. P. Boss, and worked on an extensive
scale; and the discovery of anthracite coal in the State of
Sonora. The following year was instituted the Geologic
Commission of Mexico, and two years later, 1892, still further
improvements and consolidations of the mining law were
effected.

The year 1898 witnessed the march of progress in mining
matters still proceeding. The first electric-plant was installed
on the Santa Ana mines at San Luis Potosi ; antimony mines
were discovered in the same rich State, at a place called
Wadley; cupryo- auriferous ores were found at Santa F^

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PRODUCTION TO DATE 279

Fichocalco, in the State of Chiapas, and the McArthor-
Forrest procees of cyaniding, now generally ased throughout
Mexico, was first introduced by an English Company own-
ing the patents. In 1897 La Beina Mine was discovered at
Gusihuiriachic, in the State of Chihuahua, and fresh interest
was displayed in the copper mines of Tepazala, in the State
of Aguascalientes. The year 1904 was distinguished in
Mexican mining circles by the sensational strike of the
rich sulphide ores in the West Veins of the Esperanza Mine,
at El Oro (Michoac&n), and which have since been almost
worked out.

In the same year the first attempt at a permanent Mining
Exhibition was made through the efforts of the Chihuahua
Government, which introduced a bill for that purpose into
Congress.

Of the £8,500,000 obtained in 1826 from the mines of the
whole of America, Mexico produced upwards of £4,000,000,
and three of the districts, namely Ouanajuato, Zacatecas
and Catorce, produced one-half of the annual nett produce
of Mexico. During recent years the number of mines in
operation has actually decreased, although the amount of
aggi^egate production has steadily increased. The great
mining region runs from the north-west to the south-east,
following the direction of the Sierra Madre Cordillera, extend-
ing from Sonora to the south of Oaxaca, a distance of about
2,574 kilometres. The immense parallelogram which is formed
by this region has a width of about 402 kilometres. The
richest mines have been discovered on the western slope of the
Cordilleras, at an elevation of about from 915 to 2,440 metres
above sea-level. It is here that most of the historical mines
are situated, the Spaniards having commenced to work this
region in 1526 and continued until 1700, with the result that
the mines in their days produced the sensational value of
£854,689,861 in silver, while the total production of Mexican
mines, including gold, silver and copper, to the present date
probably amounts to £600,000,000.

I may here state that these figures are not hypothetical,
but are taken from the official records which exist in the City
of Mexico, while those relating to the early days are supplied
by the Government Mint records.

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280 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

The principal mining districtB in Mexico are Chihoahaa,
Ooanajnato, Oazaca, Sonora, Durango, Jalisco, Michoacfin,
Zacatecas, Hidalgo, Qaer6taro and the State of Mexico.
There are several others, sach as Veracmz, Binaloa and the
Territory of Lower California, which have of late come into
notice as mineral producers ; bat development in all of these
has been slight np till now.

In Chihuahua the mines, which are spread practically all
over the State, the largest in the Bepublic of Mexico, contain
copper, lead, mercury, silver, salt and some coal mines. Iron,
zinc, antimony and arsenic are also met with. The number
of mining corporations represented in the State of Chihuahua
is a little over 100, whereas the properties which they own
or manage may be put down as quadruple that number.
The American Smelters Securities Co. own a large number
of mines such as the Yeta Grande, the Botello, the Tecolotes,
and the Mina Yieja, which are located in the various districts
of Guadeloupe, Farr&l, Santa Barbara and Santa Eulalia.
The Batopilas Mining Co. owns a large group of mines in the
Batopilas district. The Company has a capital of $9,000,000,
and the present Mexican Minister to the U.S.A. (Seiior
Enrique C. Creel) was, up to the time of his appointment, a
director of the Company. A large number of prominent
Washington capitalists are interested, as well as certain
London capitalists. The Batopilas is one of the oldest mines
having been worked by the Spaniards in the Colonial days
and large amounts of silver were extracted. The present
owners have shipped in silver bars over $19,000,000.

The Waterson Gold, Ltd., is a British enterprise, estab-
lished in 1902, to take over the properties of Mr. J. J.
Waterson of Ocampo, Chihuahua. The enterprise has not
proved uniformly suiccessful, reconstruction having been
carried through and a new process of treatment experimented
with. It is interesting to note that Mr. Waterson was one of
the 18 men sent out in the autumn of 1862 by the Union
Ironworks of San Francisco to build one of the first mills in
Mexico. He received the sum of $600,000 (gold) from the
English Company which purchased his mine.

The Palmarejo mines are the property of the Palmarejo
and Mexican Goldfields, Ltd., and are situated in the extreme

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PRODUCING MINES 281

western part of the State. The Pahnarejo is one of the
largest and most promising mines in the State, the value of
the shipping ore being from £100 to £150 per ton. There
has been some talk of the mine being sold. The advent of
the Kansas City, Mexico and Orient Railway will spell for the
Palmarejo a new era of prosperity.

El Bayo Mining Co., whose properties are near Parr&l,
have done a great deal of active development during the past
year or two, including over 7,000 ft. of shafts, drifts, raises
and winzes. The ore here averages about $10 (£2) a ton,
and, with the completion of the reduction plant, the property
should enter the ranks of profitable companies. At Guadeloupe
the famous Bosario mine, which in the early forties produced
$80,000,000 in ore, is still a great property, and owns a dump
with over $1,000,000 in gold value. I understand that this is
under option to an English corporation, who propose to still
further develop it.

The Dolores mine, which is owned by a British Company,
has been only moderately successful up to date. It has
undergone both change of management and increase of
capital, which is not surprising perhaps in view of the fact
that the mine has been hitherto almost inaccessible owing
to lack of transport facilities. Every single pound of supplies
has had to be borne on muleback over a rough mountain
trail of more than 100 miles. Undoubtedly the property is
a good one, the nett earnings for July, August and October
last year amounting to £11,200, but a great deal more than
this will have to be reaped before shareholders can expect any-
thing like a continual flow of dividends.

The great mineral belt which contains the mines of Galeana,
Dolores, Santa Cruz de Santa Ana, Los Angelos, CeboUitas,
Ban Jos6 de Cruces, La Cumbra de San Manuel, Trigo,
Calabacillas and San Job6 de Gracia, is undergoing active
development, and many of the properties above referred to
are likely to be heard of in the near future. The Calabacillas,
for instance, was recently acquired by some Utah capitalists,
and is already being opened up on a large scale. This mining
district has been connected with Parr&l by wireless telegraphy.
Some of the mines are producing silver, running 60 oz. to the
ton. El Tesoro mine, which is owned by some St. Louis

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282 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

capitalists, is prosecating its development with great vigour and
very satisfactory results. The Santa Cruz de Santa Ana, which,
in its time, has produced over $10,000,000 worth of silver and
gold, is now the property of Americans. Within a short ride
of this section are the finely-developed mines of Los Angelos,
opened up to the depth of 600 ft., and exposing a high-grade
of milling ore, worth $1,000,000 in value. Adequate machinery
has now been erected, and Mr. F. W. McGonnell, who has been
in charge for some years, is very hopeful of the results. In
this same district are several hundred very promising un-
developed mines which are at present lying dormant for lack
of sufficient capital to work them. The whole section is
fortunate in possessing a supply of labour trained in the
early forties by the rock miners of Cornwall, and among
them are many good drillers, timber men, blacksmiths, and
millmen.

The greatest silver-lead mine in Mexico is undoubtedly that
of Santa Eulalia in this State. It is situated about 16 miles
south-east of Chihuahua in a lone range of stone hills. The
ores, which are usually carbonates, are found in the limestone,
generally along or near fault-planes or porphyry dykes which
cut through the line in many places. These mines were dis-
covered in 1704, and the total output since that date is
estimated as high as $9,000,000,000 (Mex.), exceeding those
of the famous Guanajuato, with an estimated production of
$800,000,000 (Mex.), and those of Zacatecas with $660,000,000.
At the present time the Santa Eulalia mines are producing at
the rate of from $12,000,000 to $16,000,000 (Mex.) per annum.
Two narrow-gauge railroads have been built from Chihuahua
to Santa Eulalia to haul the ores from the mines. The
Juarez Mine produces from 1,200 to 1,800 tons of ore
monthly, and is under option to some Americans for $1,000,000
(gold). Among other important districts here are the
Yictorino (silver and lead), Ojinaga (where some 165,000
acres of land have been acquired by W. B. Hearst, of New
Tork, in fee simple), Santa Domingo (placer), and Las Vigas
(copper). All of these districts are to be covered by the
Kansas City, Mexico and Orient Bailroad, now approaching
completion.

The district of Jimenez is in the south-east corner of the

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CHIHUAHUA MINES 288

State, and disputes with Parr&l the honour of being the
oldest mining district. The greatest producing mine here is
the Cigarrero, a very old mine, worked by the Spaniards, and
now yielding 8,000 tons of ore per month. The owners are
constructing a railroad from Paca station to the foot of the
mountain, where the ore is brought down by gravity-trains.
Other mines also being worked here are the Sierra Almonoya,
which is very similar to the Santa Eulalia, and the Naica.
Some copper mines in this district are producing between
6,000 and 6,000 tons annually. Las Adargas, about 26 miles
from Jimenez, produces a large part of the lead fluxing ores
used at the smelter of Torr6on. I believe that a smelter
is to be erected at Jimenez, Mr. J. F. Johnston, a prominent
mining man of Parr&l, having secured a concession for the
purpose.

The whole of this district is destined to reap some benefit
from a scheme which comprises the construction of a large
electric-power station on the banks of the Gonchos river, and
which would supply the mines with electric power within a
radius of 100 miles. The mines in the Chihuahua district
are largely in the hands of enterprising Americans, who are
also doing an excellent trade generally. On the other hand,
agriculture is largely in the hands of the Mormon colonists.

The Abasola district, which is part of the political division
of Iturbide (Chihuahua), contains the famous Cusihuiriachic
mine, situated in one of the oldest camps in Mexico, having
been discovered in 1666, and estimated to have produced
some $100,000,000. According to the old Spanish records, taxes
or royalties were paid on $47,000,000 up to 1810, and it is
believed that, including the large amount that must have
been smuggled out without paying the heavy royalties de-
manded by the Government, the total production to that date
was from $60,000,000 to $80,000,000, and yet there is only
one mine in the entire camp that has been worked to a depth
of over 400 ft. This exception is the Santa Marina, which has
been worked down to a depth of 1,066 ft., and shows good
ores at the bottom of the deepest workings. The veins of
Cusihuiriachic are wide and persistent, and the ores are very
rich in silver.

The district of Parr&l is an exceptionally large and rich

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284 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

one, and has been worked since 1656. The ores found in
this locality generally carry gold, silver, copper and lead.
One of the best-known mines in this district is the San
Francisco del Oro, adjoining the quaint old Spanish town of
the same name, about 14 miles from Parr&l, and belonging
to a British Company, of which the Earl of Denbigh is the
Chairman. The mines form a distinctive group comprising
about 10 different properties, all adjoining, and extending
over some 194 acres. Only one reef, however, has been
worked, namely the San Francisco, where the work done is of
a highly important and profitable natura Within the past
few months a mill has been erected, capable of dealing with
about 800 tons a day, while the general equipment and com-
pleteness of the mine have been very carefully carried oat.
The management, which is in the hands of Mr. James Hyslop,
is both economical and efficient, and the mine generally is
among the most promising from a productive point of view of
any which I visited. With a rich body of ore available, an
abundance of water and a plant containing the newest and
most efficient machinery, the future of the San Francisco del
Oro mines is exceedingly brilliant.

The San Patricio, 5 miles south-west of Parr&l is being
reopened after some years' inactivity. Tears ago this mine
was a heavy producer, but workings caved in. Not far away
is the famous Palmilla mine belonging to Pedro Alvarado.
This mine has now been leased for 15 years to Mr. James P.
Flynn, and he pays 45 per cent, of proceeds to Alvarado, who
now finds himself in financial difficulties owing to extravagance
and too many loans to friends. Pedro Alvarado, who was
and remains an ordinary peon, has been the subject of many
romantic writings upon the part of fanciful journalists, but
while much imagination has been indulged in, the man him-
self is a curious mixture of the good and the vulgar. There
is no doubt that the mine is an extraordinary producer, and is
still to-day one of the finest properties in Mexico.

Among the most largely interested firms in Coahuila's
diversified mining pursuits is the firm of Guillermo Purcell y
Cia, already referred to. Their properties are situated in
both Coahuila and Zacatecas, the neighbouring State. It was
Mr. Purcell who first brought to public notice the great

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COAHUILA MINES 286

potential riches of these mining camps. He has been from
the commencement closely identified with the celebrated
mining locality at Sierra Mojada. Mr. Porcell formed an
expedition to thoroughly exploit the district in 1875, and
both he and his brother, the late Mr. Thomas Porcell,
organised the Ciompania Constancia and erected the first
modem blast - furnace plant ever built in the Bepublic.
Smelting of ores to-day forms one of the foremost industries
of the country.

In 1886 the firm took over the Aranzazu Copper Mines, as
well as several others, forming later, and retaining still a
considerable interest in, the Mazapil Copper Co. This cor-
poration ranks as one of the largest mining and smelting
concerns in the North of Mexico, and towards the commence-
ment of this year (1907) completed a large, new blast-furnace
plant at Saltillo, for the treatment of its own lead ores.

The same finn are interested in several other important
mining properties, such as the San Juan en Mapimi, the Cia
Minora Naica and the Cia Exploradora de Coahuila, the latter
being concerned in an entirely new camp, the Orufiidora, in
the State of Zacatecas, which, so far, has offered every en-
couragement to the proprietors. Although not freely
marketed, in consequence of being very tightly held by the
few members of the Syndicates, the Naica and San Juan
shares conunand a sensational premium at the present time.

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CHAPTER LXIX

Mining (continued ) : Mining in the State of Oaxaea — ^Long ne^ect —
Former Aztec and Spanish workingB — New and promising field —
Oeatl4n — Pefioles — Totolap&m — San Joe^ — Taviche — litigation
retards progress — New districts opened np — ^American and British
capital— The Oaxaea smelter— A new industry estabEBhed.

Ownro probably to its somewhat remote position, and the
fact that only one line of railway conducts thither, the State
of Oaxaea had up till recently met with but little attention
upon the part of Anglo-Saxon investors ; but during the past
two years an awakening to the possibilities of this State has
ensued, with the result that many millions of American
capital are coming into the country to take their place side by
side with the small amount of British. The Southern Rail-
way, a British Corporation, running from the City of Pu^bla
to the City of Oaxaea, was among the earliest pioneers in this
district. The mining wealth of the State has, however,
hitherto hardly been realised ; but within the next few
years it is not too much to say that the Oaxaea mines will
challenge the attention of the world. Development has
been going on quietly but none the less surely, and the
shrewd Americans within the past 4 or 6 years have invested
$10,000,000 gold (£2,000,000) in Oaxaea mines and smelting
plants. There is only one State in the Republic which can
show a larger amount of similar investment than this, namely
Guanajuato, with $12,000,000 gold, while the State of Jalisco
and Oaxaea now stand side by side in regard to the amount
of U.S. capital invested in mining enterprises.

The principal mining districts are as follows: Ocatlan,
Fenoles, Totolap4m, Taviche and San Jo86. The first-named
is a rich copper and lead-ore district, in which a good deal of
development has taken place. The ground lies between the

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O AX AC A Mines — The Baldomero Mine at Taviche.

Oaxaca Mines.— The Vichachi Mine at Taviche.

See pp. 288.289 ]

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TAVICHE MINES 287

town of Ocatlan and the Taviche camp, and was only discovered,
and then by accident, in 1908. All sorts of stories, real and
imaginary, are told concerning discoveries of rich mines, but
that related in connection with Ocatl&n is though romantic
quite true. A prospector happening to be returning to camp
very much under the influence of liquor, stumbled over a pro-
truding rock, which, in his anger, he viciously kicked. With-
out thinking seriously of what he was doing, but with the
instinct of his kind, he put a small piece of the rock in his
pocket, and several days afterwards discovered it there. More
out of curiosity than conviction, he had it assayed, with the
result that it was found to carry good values, and eventually
led to the opening up of the whole district. The principal
properties here are El Ouebesha, upon which the first piece of
mineral rock was discovered, and which has now been proved
to be a very valuable property; the Treadwell, the Boyal
Crown and several other mines in the immediate neighbour-
hood, which produce copper-ores, and which offer every
appearance of becoming richer as depth is found ; La Fortuna,
around which every inch of land has been denounced for
miles ; the Ventura, in which a shaft has been sunk to the
depth of 100 ft. ; the Humboldt, where a high-grade lead-ore
with small quantities of copper is being unearthed, and several
others of minor importance (see also p. 292).

The Taviche district may be regarded, perhaps, as the
most promising in the whole State, and new mines are here
being opened up in all directions. The experimental stage
may be said to have been passed some months ago, and indeed
would have been reached sooner, had more capital been
available. Although it is not improbable that the Aztecs and
Spaniards knew of the richness of this district, no serious
work had ever been done there, and it is only since 1901
that the present camp came into existence. Several Americans
arrived on the spot during the French War, and again in the
early nineties ; but little or no work was carried-on on account
of the difficulty in dealing with the water, an obstacle which
modem machinery and scientific methods of mining have
almost entirely overcome. Among the better-known pro-
perties of the Taviche district is the San Juan mine, which
produces silicious gold-silver ores. Here a good deal of work

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288 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTUBT

has been done> a 20-8tamp mill erected and a damp ooUeofced
aggregating $400,000 (gold). Shipping-ores netting $1,200
a day have been treated, but, onfortunately, the mine has
been the subject of litigation, and within recent times the
property has been pat into the hands of a receiver. The San
Joanita is worked from the San Juan shaft, and is also
shipping-ore. Adjoining are the Fresno No. 8 and Belvoir, on
the same vein, the working-shaft being in the village of
Taviche. Here some hoisting and pumping plant have been
erected, and several large dumps have been collected and are
being developed in the meantime by hand. Within a few
months' time a lO-stamp mill will have been erected.

The Escuadra, which is the largest mine in this camp, has
been greatly retarded in development by litigation ; there is
a fine installation of machinery, including a full hoisting-
plant, compressed-air drill, etc., while some 8,500 ft. of
workings have been carried out in the new works, the same
amount having been effected in the old. Here, again, some
of the original owners of the mine have been non-suited by
the supreme Court of the State, but litigation is not yet at an
end.

The Zapote has steam-plant, and is developing a good
character of ore, some of which is being shipped to the
smelters. The development is continmng, and is down 750 ft
or more. Zapote is considered one of the best opened-up mines
in the district, and, with some 6 others, is using air-drills.
Las Mujeres has developed a considerable amount of good
milling and shipping ore, while the Veronica, owned by the
same proprietor, has erected a steam hoisting-plant, and is
showing good values. The San Francisco, which among
other mines I visited, has recently struck some very rich
ground, which makes the second lucky find within the past
few months. The Bosario is owned by an English syndicate,
as is also the Consu^lo. On the first-named mine the shaft
is down over 500 ft., and is being carried across a deep ravine,
working in ground of the most promising character. Tbe
Consu^lo has sunk a three-compartment shaft, and has excel-
lent prospects.

The Yichachi, which is owned by American capitalists,
consists of 82 pertenencias lying between the Chivo and the

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TAVICHE MINES 289

Bosario properties. The mine was discovered by Mr. Gon-
stantine Biokards^ the English mining engineer^ now deceased,
some 20 years ago, and has been developed to its present
workings by a 8-compartment shaft, timbered and lagged
down to over 260 ft. This mine has been shipping ore
regularly since last July, paying all development expenses
from the liquidations, and piling up a large tonnage of second
and third class ore for a future mill. The ore is a silver
sulphide, with free gold running into copper in paying
quantities. The ore at present carries some ruby silver, and
upwards of 5 per cent. zinc. From the Yichachi, indeed, the
hi^^est-grade ore in the camp is being shipped, while the
quantity is improving daily. The mill is to be erected at the
end of this year, and in the meantime the ore reserves are
steadily increasing.

The Bosita, also owned by an American Co., is down
250 ft, and is shipping ore, as is the Providencia-San Carlos,
which has two shafts down 270 ft., with 2,700 ft. development
work done, and milling-ore blocked out to the value of
$880,000. The Chichicapa, an American-owned mine, after
having erected a steam-plant and going down 820 ft., by
means of which a large body of milling ore was developed,
has, unfortunately, been shut-down, but is not likely to remain
60 for long. Should the Yichachi mine continue to produce as
satisfactorily as it is doing now, the proceeds of its rich ores
will be devoted to reopening the Chichicapa, or this may be
eold to a separate concern.

El Ghiro, the Baldomiero and the Victoria are all developing
slowly but surely, each having a steam and compressed-air
plant at work. The Providencia No. 2 is opening up well, but
the Poder de Dies, which has already erected a 10-stamp mill
as well as a concentrating and cyanide plant, is unfortunately
4slosed down at the present time. The Conejo Colorado has a
10-stamp mill, and a full electric plant It is being developed
at a low level, and is also milling the outcrop. The Conejo
Blanco is working on the same vein, and possesses a very
heavy outcrop which runs high in gold values.

In Totolapam (district of Tlacolula) capital and intelligence
are being brought to bear with very satisfactory results.
J3itherto the district has been very inaccessible, owing to the lack

VOL. n. 40

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290 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

of railway facilities ; and, being situated in a very high locality,
transportation has been difficult. In order to reach Totolapam,
some 66 miles south-east of Oazaca, it has been necessary to
travel many miles over a little-inhabited country, across some
deep barrancas, and traverse the San Luis river. To-day,
however, the approach has been considerably facilitated by the
improvement in roads and the nearer reach of railway exten-
sions. On the other hand, the district is a well-known minerai
producer, considerable sums having been made there in days
gone by, notably in connection with the Victoria and Tapada
mines, which have yielded over $600,000 (£60,000), the La
Parada de San Ignacio having produced $600,000 (£60,000),
and La Tejuana $400,000 (£40,000). All this was netted
from the rich ores, the poorer-grade not yet having been
touched. With modem methods of treatment, however, these
ores could now be treated with great success ; and no doubt
they will be shortly. A mill has already been erected and will
soon be in operation to deal with these low-grade ores.

Sinking on the Parada mine is to be conducted to a depth
of 1,000 ft., while on the Victoria mine a shaft has already
been sunk 400 ft, and extensive cross-cuts and levels have
been driven. A full equipment of the necessary machinery ia
to be found upon both of these mines as well as on the Tapada,
the latter being equipped additionally with a 16-horse-power
gas-engine. The Tejuana mines are undergoing a further
development, and are showing a satisfactory quantity of ship-
ping ores, running unusually high in gold. Situated some
three leagues to the west of this group of mines are the Alta
Gracia, which yielded to Mr. Gonstantine Bickards, the owner,
the considerable fortune which he left when he died. This
mine had been worked by the Spaniards over 160 years ago,,
but every pound of ore taken out had to be sent overland to
Veracruz and from there by vessels to Europe, a process which
was still followed by Mr. Bickards when he came into posses-
sion. How rich must have been the quality of the ore to
have successfully withstood such an expense as this may be
readily gauged.

Among other mines which enjoy bright prospects are Los
Beyes, which has a 10-stamp mill, and is being rapidly
developed ; theMagdalena, which comprises several propertiea

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Oaxaca Mines. — Gallows frame on the Vichache Mine, Taviche.
Stepp. 288-289. J

Oaxaca Mines.— Los Ocotes Mine, ttmr Ejutla.
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OAXACA BMELTEB 291

of silver-leady mostly having been worked in the olden days ;
the Tlaoolnla, which has recently been shipping its ores to the
smelter ; El Parian, north of Oaxaca, which, with the Santa
Catarina, has done a considerable amomit of development
lately and with satisfactory results ; the Zavaleta, south of
Oaxaoa, which is owned by English proprietors, and is a con-
siderable property, with a mill and other equipment ; as well
as the Mitla, which is developing ores in gold, silver and copper.

The San Jos6 district is still a young one, and was opened-
np after that of Taviche, from which it is only a few miles
distant The principal mines here are the San Juan, the
Palmilla, the Dos Estrellas, the San Diego (which is as yet
bat a prospect). La Cuma, the Trinidad and the Natividad.
The character of the country-rock is almost entirely porphyrya
with true fissure veins. The outcrops show no break of any
kind, and are composed of good, strong quartz* In the matter
of transportation the district is singularly fortunate, since it is
cat in two by the new Ejutla railway, while, as the valley is
flat, it will not be necessary to build a wagon-road, as has
been the case in some other districts.

The Pe&oles district is situated about 6 kilometres from the
village of the same name, and is mainly in the hands of
American capitalists and prospectors. No very serious work
has yet been undertaken, but development is proceeding ; so
far as this has gone, the results have been eminently satirfac-
tory. Among the principal mines so far open are El Bey and
the Francis, both belonging to the (Georgia-Mexican Mining
and Milling Co. ; the Marietta, which, by-the-bye, is not in the
Peiioles, but in the Ocatlto district, belonging, however, to the
same Company; and one or two others which are yet too
much in the prospective stage to deserve special mention.

By far the most important enterprise in the State, however,
is the Oaxaca smelter, the steel chimney-stacks of which can
be seen long before the city itself is reached. The plant con-
sists of 2 combination copper-lead furnaces, 46 x 162 ft. at the
tuyeres, 24 ft. high over all, and 19.2'' from centre of tuyeres
to charging floor level, fitted with the necessary power-plant,
pumping-plant, sample-works, assay-laboratories, etc. The
whole of the fittings and equipment are of the most modem
description, and, down to the minutest detail, have been care-

40—2

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292 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTUEY

folly thought-out and efficiently supplied. The capacity of
each furnace is about 176 tons of lead charge, or 800 tons of
copper charge, per day of 24 hours. The whole of the works
have been arranged with a view to extension and the addition
of converters, when the output warrants it. The buildings of
the plant proper are all of steel frame and galvanized iron.
The blowing-in of this smelter, which is one of the largest and
most important in the Republic of Mexico, took place on
May 81st, and it practically means the regeneration of the
State of Oaxaca as a mining centre.

Especial interest attaches to the operations of La Foriuna
Mining Company, an American corporation, with head offices
in Washington, D.C., on account of the few companies in
Oaxaca carrying out development work on copper properties,
in spite of the absolute need of such ore for the successful
operation of the new smelter which has recently been erected
in the district If the Ocotes mines be excepted, there has
probably been more development done on La Fortuna than
upon any property in the camp. The mine has only been
actively worked for about 2 years, operations having com-
menced with the formation of the Company in October 1905.
The Treadwell claim (see p. 287), about 4 kilometres from
OcatUn, has been very satisfactorily opened up, and promises
most encouragingly. The country rock is andesytic breccia,
underlain by massive andesite, while the vein is clearly trace-
able for 2,000 metres continuously along the surface, varying in
width from i metre to 4 metres. The underground develop-
ment consists of a 2-compartment shaft sunk (up to May last)
100 metres, and 188 metres of drifts and cross-cuts. The
first ore was met with at the 60-ft. level, where an ore body
1.2 to 1.6 metres, and averaging about 8 per cent, copper,
was cut. Twenty-five centimetres on the hanging wall was
of higher grade, carrying 16 per cent, copper and 900 grams
silver. So promising are the prospects of this property that
it is hoped to erect efficient milling machinery very shortly.
The Guebesha and Boyal Crown mines, in the same district,
are also considered to possess the same character of ore and
as favourable prospects.

Some promising onyx quarries have lately been discovered
in the State of Oaxaca, namely at a place near Tequisistlan,

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THE LATE ME, RICKARDS 298

district of Tehoantepec. The firm of Laurence B. Spyer
and C0.9 of Mexico City, are interested in these, and the onyx
seems not only to be of the best quality, but to exist in practically
limitless quantity, the colours being white, yellow and green.

Li few parts of the Republic is railway construction making
surer headway than in the State of Oaxaca. The opportu-*
nities for extension are undoubtedly great, and with the many
intelligent and enterprising men at present to be found in
Oaxaca it seems that these opportunities will be made the
most of* The San Juan line runs from the City of Oaxaca to
the centre of the Ocatl&n mining district, with its terminus at
Taviche. Branch lines connect with most of the Taviche
mines, and they will feed the new Custom Mill. The San
Juan is 40 kilometres in length. The Oaxaca and Orient
Railway is 46 kilometres, running from Oaxaca to Tlacolula.
A direct line is contemplated from Oaxaca to the port of
Veracruz, and an inspection of the route proves it to be at
least feasible. The Veracruz and Pacific Railway has already
a line from Veracruz to Tierra Blanca, which is about one-
third of the distance between Oaxaca and the Port. A con-
tinuation of this line from Tierra Blanca would be costly but
possible, and in view of the growing importance of the Oaxaca
mines, and the amount of capital which is coming into the
State, I regard the construction of this line as well within
the range of probability.

One of the earliest pioneers of the Oaxaca fields was Mr.
Cionstantine Rickards, who died in the City of Oaxaca on
February 19th, 1906, aged 77. He had been half a century
in the country, and among other famous properties he owned
or had an interest in were the Alta Gracia and Parada de San
Ignacio groups in the district of Tlacolula ; the Soledad group
in the district of San Carlos ; the Taviche group in the district
of Ocatlin, and the Taveria group in the district of Lctl&n,
covering an area of 126 acres. No one was more highly
esteemed than Mr. Rickards, who made several journeys to
England, and married an English lady. Miss Jane Arden, of
Dunsford, Devon, who died in 1888. Three sons, Frederick,
Oonstantine and Edward, are still in Oaxaca, and carry on the
good name and the high business ability of their father, one
(Mr. Gonstantine Rickards) being a prominent advocate.

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CHAPTEB LXX

Mining (oontinued) : The Gnanajnato Mine»— The Development Com-
pany's operations — El Fingoioo — The Peregzina — The famooB
Valenoiana— The Bednotion and Mines Co.~The Suena, and Con-
solidated Mining and Milling Co.— The Mineral Development Co. —
The Amalgamated Gold Mines— The Jesos Maria— Zacatecas Wnea
—Territory of Topic Mines— El Oro— Tlalpnjahna— Agoasealientes—
Dnrango— San Lnis Potosi—Pa^Ua—Qner^taro— Jalisco— Tamanllpae
— Tabasco — Sonora.

Although always ranking as one of the most famous mineral
districts in the whole of Mexico, containing, as it does, some
of the most celebrated silver-producing mines in the world,
it is only in the past few years that a new lease of life has
been granted to Guanajuato, and to-day it is one of the busiest
camps in the Bepublic. The revival of the gold and silver
mining industry is due to the initiative of American enter-
prise, nine-tenths of the mines which are working to-day being
in the hands of strong American Syndicates*

The largest group is that owned by the Guanajuato Develop-
ment Co., an American corporation formed in the State
of New Jersey, and with head offices at 40, Wall Street, New
York. The capital of the Company is $1,000,000 (U.S. Gy.),
and it is controlled by men of great practical experi-
ence and with intimate knowledge of the Guanajuato camp.
The principal properties owned are El Pinguico, El Cedro, La
Central and the San Isidro ranch. The first-named mine has
attracted universal attention by reason of the immense out-
put in gold which it is yielding ; indeed, it is proving one of
the richest mining properties in the world. A considerable
amount of work has been done, including driving through the
ore several hundred feet, the vein having been found to grow
wider and the ore to increase in value as depth is attained.
The average value of this ore is $60 (d£10) per ton.

294

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GUANAJUATO MINES 295

El Oedro oonsiBtB of a large number of mining claims,
covering a superficial area of 200 acres, the vein passing
through it having an average of 40 ft., and ore of an average
value of $12 (£2 8b.) per ton.

The Central group of mines are situated in the immediate
proximity of the Gedro properties. Some 80 veins traverse
them, showing values in gold and silver ranging from $10 to
$20 (£2 to £4) per ton. It is expected that these mines will
be producing a regular output of 200 tons a day shortly.

The San Isidro Ranch covers 16,000 acres, of which two-
thirds are contributory to a single drainage basin. This is being
dammed, and will be able to supply about 6,000,000 cubic
metres (1,500,000,000 gallons) of water for the use of irriga-
tion, mines and mills and supply factory power.

The success attained by the Guanajuato Development
C!o. is mainly due to Messrs. McElhiney and Bryant, the
promoters and managers, whose thorough business capacity
is undeniable, and should succeed in rehabilitating the once*
great fame of Guanajuato as a mining camp.

The principal mine in this district, after Pinguico, is the
Feregrina, of which Messrs. McElhiney and Bryant are Presi-
dent and Manager respectively, the owners being the Fere-
grina Mining and Milling Co. The history of this mine
goes back for many years, and it is traditionally one of
the richest in the State. An immense amount of develop-
ment has taken place, and a thoroughly-equipped mill, plant
and machinery have been erected. There are 120 stamps at
work, and the average value of the ore passing through the
mill may be put at $10 (£2) per ton, yielding a profit, after all
expenses, losses and taxes have been deducted, of $1,700
(£840) per day, or, say, $500,000 (£100,000) per annum.
The Blaisdell process has lately been introduced, and this
will effect still further economy in working and additional
gain in product.

Among other enterprises managed by the Guanajuato
Development Co. are the Aparecida, the Victoria, the San
Frospero, the Guanajuato River Gold Mining Co., the San
Mateo Mines, the Guadelupe Mines, the Natividad and the La
Lnz.

The Guanajuato Consolidated Mining and Milling (3o. own

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296 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTUEY

the famous Sirena group, as well as 50 per cent, of the
Barragana and Gonstantina mines; 68 per cent, and entire
ownership respectively of the Ban Vicente and San Bartolo ;
50 per cent, of the Gardonas and 61 per cent, of the Garmen
mines. The total amount of acreage represented by these
Gompanies is 697.80 acres, and the whole are under the
able and successful management of Mr. M. E. MacDonald, as
manager, and Mr. Bernard MacDonald as consulting engineer.
The Sirena mine is the most prominent of the Company's
group, and has already thoroughly established itself as a
valuable property. The mine is admirably equipped with
an 80-stamp mill, cyanide and power plant and machinery, as
well as an excellent installation of tramways. The result of
the handling of the ores is a recovery of a minimum of 86 per
cent, nett of the original values. The Company has already
commenced to pay dividends at the rate of 6 per cent, per
annum, but this represents, in my opinion, only a very
modest proportion of what it will eventually return to its
shareholders.

The Guanajuato Reduction and Mines Co. own a famous
group of historical mines, including the Yalenciana, the
Gati, the Mellado and the Bayas, all of which have, in years
past, been famous producers. The first-named, Yalenciana,
has a recorded output of $800,000,000 (£80,000,000) to its
credit. It is not, however, upon past achievement that this
Company is resting. Under the present spirited management
of Mr. G. W. Van Law, a large amount of development upon
entirely new ground has been undertaken, and a thoroughly
energetic and comprehensive programme is being carried out.
The Bustos mill, which has been working since last year, will
shortly be extended so as to handle 1,000 tons of ore a day.
There is a complete electrical equipment of the most modem
description, while the cyanide plant at the Flores Hacienda,
which was started in March 1906, has been in constant opera-
tion since, working 24 hours a day.

The Mineral Development Co. own the Nueva Luz mine,
situated in the angle between the famous Yalenciana and the
Nopal. Rich ore-beds are supposed to dip directly from the
Yalenciana, entering the Nueva Luz at an angle of 46^ and
at a depth of 960 ft. below the surface, at a point opposite

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ELECTEIC POWER FOR MINES 297

the general shaft of the Yalenciana. As tar as human judg-
ment goes, and in accordance with all reasonable supposition,
the same rich beds will be found to continue down and
into Nueva Luz ground. A shaft is being sunk and is
making good progress ; but it will probably not be before the
end of this year that the rich body of ores can be struck.
The Manager of the mine, Mr. H. A. Miller, is very confident
of success, and the Mineral Development Co., being supplied
with ample means and enterprising managers, there is very
little doubt that before the shaft reaches its ultimate depth
of 2,920 ft., cutting the veins of the Nopal group on the way,
the Mother Lode vein will have been struck and success
achieved. The same Company also own La Torre mines and
La Sorda mine.

The Guanajuato Amalgamated Gold Mines are working
with great success the Jesus Maria, YiUarino, Sangre de
Cristo, Providencia Rem6dios and Dolores mines, all of
which are historical, and are gradually being opened-up by
the Company. The Jesus Maria, in particular, has a remark-
able record as a producer, having yielded over $25,000,000
(£2,500,000) in days gone by. Mr. Lawrence P. Adams, the
manager, is an experienced and competent engineer, and
thoroughly understands mining from A to Z. Under his
direction, the system of mining adopted upon the La Luz
properties is panning-out very successfully.

Among other Guanajuato properties which have been, and
which again will be, worked, are the San Cayetana, with a
tunnel having a total length of 8,140 metres (10,299 ft.) ; El
Pabellon, a famous producer in the early 50's ; La Union y
Constancia; Tajo de Dolores; the Refugio; the Bolafiitos
and the Cubo.

The rehabilitation of the Guanajuato mines is due almost
entirely to the continuous and efficient service of electric
power which is provided by the Guanajuato Power and
Electric Co., without which many of the low-grade proposi-
tions, and even the higher-grade, could never have been
worked at a profit The power is transmitted from the Duero
river, 101 miles distant from Guanajuato, a distance which
to most mining engineers would have seemed wholly imprac-
ticable under former conditions.

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298 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTUBY

The former mineral wealth of the State of Zacatecas is not
reflected in its present condition, although this is one which
is consistently improving. The earliest discovery of silver
in this district was in 1646, by one Joan de Toloea; and so
rich were the mines found to be that a city was established
there in 1686, by special royal decree* The two most actiTe
districts of to-day are those of Mazapil and Goncepcion del
Oro. In the first-named are the famous Mazapil Copper Go.'8
mines, which carry on very extensive operations, and are
consistent producers. A railway has been built into this
camp, and a smelter, with a capacity for 6,000 tons, has been
erected a few miles away, across the border State of Ooahuila.
El Pabellon and San Juan mines are likely to be reopened
shortly ; the famous El Pabellon mine is also about to change
hands.

Chalchihuites camp is now being opened up by some
American capitalists, and already possesses a fine plant.
The firm of Guillermo Puroell y Cia, of Saltillo, Coahuila, are
considerably interested in the Mazapil Copper Ga, and also
have holdings in Zacatecas mines, as well as owning the
Coahuila and Zacatecas Railway. El Bote mine, one of the
oldest worked, is under offer to an American syndicate. Other
mines of importance in Zacatecas include the Mezquital, which
belongs to a British company, but has not hitherto proved
successful; the Dolores y Anexas; Nueva Quebradillas ; the
Bio Tinto, etc., belonging to the Cia Metalurgica Mexicana ;
Candelaria y Anexas ; Bilbao ; San Antonio ; San 3oe6 de la
Cruz; Joya; Santa Marta; and the San Rafael el Grande.

The Magistral Copper Mines are shipping 60 tons of ore
daily, yielding from 6 to 10 per cent, of copper. La Capilla
has the same grade of ore. The Zaragoza, a Mexican-owned
mine, has a rich deposit of peacock-copper, with sulphides
and a large body of galena. A new mine, the San Roberto,
is being opened up, and two veiy old properties, the Yeta
Grande and the Tajos de Panico, are being worked on a
modest scale.

New waterworks which will increase the supply by tenfold
will materially improve the mining position of the Zacatecas
district, while the Govenmient have in view the construction
of a large dam.

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Oaxaca Minks. -The Chichicapa Mine, showing Anliguas. — sa p. 289.

Oaxaca Minks. -The Escuadra (left), Kl Orden (right), Taviche.
See f>. 288.1

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EL OBO MINES 299

The mining resources of Topic have only been partially
developedi but a favourable opinion is entertained of their
fatnre mineral resonrces. The class of ores comprise silver,
gold and a little copper. The most important district is
Acaponetre, where are located, amongst other mines, the
Candelaria and Montana del Oro, as well as the Francisco
and Mina Yieja, the two first being gold-bearing and the two
latter silver. The San Lorenzo and Trapichillo mines recently
changed hands, and are about to be gradually developed.
The Zopilote Mine claims to have £1,400,000 worth of ore in
eight. This mine has been in almost continual operation
during the last 22 years, and has yielded considerable profits.
The Gucharas Mining Co. is installing mill concentrators, and
has been working about 6 years, its plant having a capacity
of 60 tons daily. The Furissima mines have been lately
taken over by a French Syndicate, while American (Cincin-
nati) capital is invested in El Cambio, in the Bosa Morada
district, and Calif omian (Los Angelos) capital has taken over,
and is working, the San Vicente mines, near Santiago
Excuintla. Other notable mines in the same Territory are
La Castellana, Cardanillo, Paloma, San Jos6 de Yentanas,
lia Colorado, San Dionysio, La Libertad, and the Yentanas.

One of the best-known mining districts in the world is
the El Oro camp, one, moreover, of comparatively recent
development The principal mines here are those belonging
to the El Oro Mining and Bailway Co. and the Esperanza
Mines, Ltd., the former with a capital of £1,160,000 and
the latter with £466,000; both mines are exceedingly well
equipped. Unfortunately, in regard to the El Oro, a too-
lavish outlay has been made upon the mill and equipment ;
the former, which was originally to have cost £67,000, in the
end swallowed up no less than £160,000. I have not been
able to discover upon what grounds such an excessive outlay
was necessary, and the shareholders, complacent as they have
•ever shown themselves, would do well to consider extravagance
upon all outlays for equipment as tending to prove very dis-
advantageous in a mine which has been proved up till now to
contain nothing better than moderate-grade ore.

In regard to Esperanza Mines, Ltd., exception has been
taken to the expenses at both the London and the New York

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800 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTUEY

offioesy these totalling np to nearly £12,000 a year, apart
altogether from Directors' fees, mine management, ete.
Dividends have been declared amounting to 160 per cent, on
the capital, which is satisfactory enough, no doubt ; but in
all probability the halcyon days of the mine have passed, and
it must be regarded for the future, and until any new rich
discoveries take place, as an ordinary mining proposition only.

Two other properties adjoining, and in which also the El
Oro Bailway and Mining Go. have great interest, are the
Somera and the Mexico Mines of El Oro. The latter is doing
fairly well. The Victoria mine, which lies to the west of
El Oro, and adjoins the Somera to the south, is attracting
some attention, and will doubtless become a valuable property
if present indications count for anything.

Another promising district is the Sultepec, of which more
is likely to be heard. Most of the properties here are in the
hands of private capitalists, who have not as yet expended
much upon their development. The district was worked years
ago by the Spaniards, but it is by no means yet exhausted.
Other mines in the same State are Las Fleyades, La Union^
Oro Nolan, Westphalia, El Oro and Beforma. The Descu-
bridora is undertaking fresh development, and has prospects
of cutting a rich vein very shortly.

The Tlalpujahua district which adjoins, but is practically
in the State of Michoac&n, is celebrated for the extremely
rich Dos Estrellas mine, which was discovered by the French
engineer, M. Fran9ois J. Fournier, who has had a very
romantic if eventually successful career. The $100 shares
of this Company have stood as high as $9,000 each. There
are two mills, one containing 180 stamps and the other 120
stamps, capable together of dealing with 80,000 tons of ore
monthly. There are some who iconsider the Dos Estrellas
one of the most wonderful mines in the world, and it certainly
has produced sufficient to merit such distinction. It has
been systematically and skillfully developed, and will probably
last for another 100 or 150 years at least.

The Augangueo and Trojes mines, comprising some 14
different properties, are owned by a wealthy Mexican, living
in Mexico City. The Urucapasco, a slightly developed camp
up till now, producing gold and silver, has only been worked

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DUBANGO MINES 801

Binoe 1904. The Garrizal, on the river Balsas, possesses a
mill and concentrating plant, and is owned by a New York
Company. The Inguran Copper Mining Company is ship-
ping moderately, and claims to have 2,000,000 tons of ore in
sight. The Loz de Borda Co. is working two of its mines,
the old Peso and the Loz de Borda. The famous mines
of Borda and Tesoro de Borda, oat of which Joseph de la
Borda (or de la Borde, as he really was called), made so huge
a fortune, are stiU kept active, althoagh it is doabtfnl whether
they will ever again yield such a- smn as ^6,000,000, which
they did in the middle of the eighteenth century, and in the
brief space of 8 years.

The San Rafael is a very valuable mine, the $26 shares of
which have been sold at nearly $1,000 apiece. Los Ocotes
mine, containing 187 acres, is in the immediate neighbour-
hood of Dos Estrellas and the Borda Antigua, a fully-equipped
property with excellent prospects, its ores assaying from $10
to $60 per ton. The Vista del Oro last year struck a remark-
ably rich vein.

Very little mineral exploration has been done in the State
of Aguascalientes, and what producing mines exist are mainly
in the hands of Messrs. M. Guggenheim and Sons, of NewTork,
the owners of the Aguascalientes as well as the Monterey
(Nuevo Le6n) smelter. Towards the end of last year rumours
of rich veins of tin ore having been struck were current in
the district, but nothing important seems to have resulted.
One assay diowed a high result, the ore running to 10 per
cent, pure metal. There is no doubt that tin-mines were
worked by the Spaniards in the olden days with some
success.

A world-famous mining State is that of Durango, which
was one of the favourite mineral fields of the Spaniards, and
where they had some of their severest trials with the native
Indians. Many million pounds' worth of treasure have been
taken from the Durango mines, notably from the Avino,
which yielded rich tribute some 850 years ago, but in the
hands of a British Company seems somehow to have less to
justify much further exploration. At present a direct difference
of opinion exists betweeen the engineer appointed to examine
the mine — ^Mr. 3. G. Hardy — and the General Manager, both

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802 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTUBY

as to the extent and the valae of the ore-resoorees. As a
resnlty Mr. B. A. Yarden, of Messrs. Bainbridge» Seymour
and Co., was sent out to Mexico last Jane to make a farther
report apon the property.

The prinoipal mining districts of Darango are San Demas,
Tamazola, Papasqaiaro, San Jaan del Bio, Darango and
Nombre de Dies, in all of which are found gold, silver and
copper. The namber of mining claims registered exceeds
2,600, covering an area of 28,000 hectares. The famous
Serro del Mercado, or Iron Mountain, which is situated 2 kilo-
metres north of the city of Durango, contains such an
inexhaustible iron deposit, that it is estimated that it can
supply all the foundries of England for a period of 880
years.

The State of Hidalgo is one of the richest mining sections
in Mexico, and has the additional advantage of being close to
the Capital. Here are located the famous Fachuca mines, as
well as those of Zimapan, the former containing the Beal
del Monte mines, which were sold last year to the United
States Mining and Smelting Co. for the sum of £710,000.
The chief metals found are gold, in small quantities, silver,
mercury, copper, iron, lead, zinc, antimony, manganese,
cinnabar and plumbago. There are in existence some 86
reduction works for the treatment of the finer metals and the
smelting of iron ore, but only a few of these are at present
in operation. The lack of water in sufficient quantity has
proved detrimental to the mining interests at Fachuca, but
efforts are now being made to overcome this drawback. A
good deal of foreign capital is invested in the mines of the
State, the number in actual operation exceeding 120.

The State of San Luis Fotosi has in its time ranked as the
third greatest bullion-producer of Mexico. Undoubtedly, the
mineral wealth of the State is still great. The district of
Catorce (Fourteen) is world-famous for its enormous deposits
of silver ores, many of which have been worked for 60 years
without in any way exhausting the supply. The principal
mining districts are, besides Catorce, Matehuala, Cedral, San
Luis, Guadalcazar and Salinas, in all of which districts silver,
copper and lead-ores are found in great abundance. At
Yanegas a large smelter plant has been erected, having a

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Gi'ANAjUATO Mine. — Shaft and Electric Hoist at the
Nueva Liiz Mine.

Seep. 297.1

State ok Mkxko Minks. — The celebrated Ksperniiza Mine at El Oro.
Seep. 299-1

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QUEK&TABO MINES 803

capacity of 600 tons per day. The Tiro General is shipping
ore to Agnascalientes smelter at the rate of 6,000 tons per
month. It is a low-grade ore containing silver, lead and
copper.

Matehoala is perhaps the most important camp after
Catorce* In the latter district a large tunnel is projected,
which will serve to develop some old mines below tiie old
workings. The most noted quicksilver deposits in Mexico
are at Gaadalcazar.

The principal minerals found in the State of Fu6bla com-
prise gold, silver, copper and marble. There are at present
over 160 mining claims registered, covering an area of nearly
2,000 hectares ; but only a proportion of these are in active
operation. The principal mining districts are Tezuitlan,
Atlixco, Alatriste, Tlatlanquitepec, Chiantla, San Juan de los
Llanos, Matamoros and Zacatlto.

The mineral richness of Quer6taro is undoubted, the whole
State being highly-mineralised, especially the districts of
Cadereyta and Tolim&n. The principal products are silver,
galena, copper, iron, cinnabar, mercury, coal and lead, while
among the precious stones are opals, garnets and similar
deposits. There are about 60 mines in the Cadereyta dis-
trict, 8 in Tolimin and 86 in Jalpan. Although there are
some 20 establishments for the reduction of ores, only a small
proportion of these are at present in operation.

Many experts are of opinion that in the State of Quer6taro
will be found some of the most profitable mines in the
Republic, and several shrewd capitalists have followed up
their convictions by investing considerable sums in the various
districts. Among these may be mentioned the firm of
G. and 0. Braniff, of Mexico City, who hold to-day probably
some of the largest mining interests in the State of Quer6taro.
These gentlemen organised a small Company, consisting exclu-
sively of themselves, to carry out the particular mining enter-
prises which they have acquired, including some very valuable
water-powers. The mines are situated about 46 miles east of
the National Railroad Trunk-Lines, and in a very moun-
tainous but picturesque country. They contain silver, lead,
copper, zinc, antimony, bismuth and arsenic, but of these
several products only the first three mentioned are being

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804 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTUEY

handled, all the rest being considered as " refractory "
elements, according to the present practice in Mexican mining.
Probably in a short while a different view will be taken, since
modem electrolytic processes should solve the problem of
treatment, and allow of separation of the greater part of
these elements, each of which would then become marketable
as bullion.

The Braniff group of mines, which in consequence of their
great future importance I select for particular mention, are
divided into three — ^the Maconi, the Doctor and the Banas,
the whole forming a triangle, with the furthest point thereof
some 10 miles from the other two. In all, there are comprised
some 46 mines, some of which were worked in former years
by the Spanish owners, and their records date back as far as
200 years. Messrs. Braniff have commenced operations
upon but five or six of these, the immense amount of ore
blocked out being sufficient for their present ideas of exploita-
tion, and the remainder being held in reserve. To afford
some idea of the enormous dimensions of ore contained in one
of these mines, I may mention that the Doctor, which gives
its name to one of the three groups, and is^perhaps the oldest
mine of all, occupied the services of two distinguished French
engineers for two full years in underground surveying and
making the plans for the future workings. Even this lengthy
period, however, proved insufficient to complete the examination
and report.

The history of the Quer6taro mines has been the history of
practically all the mining camps of Mexica The old smelting
process in vogue in the Spaniards' time allowed of only the
richest kinds of ores being successfully treated, namely those
which ran to over 1 kilogram of silver per ton. All the
remainder of the ore, which we to-day should consider well
worth mining, was left untouched and in its virgin state, and
this ore is to be found in almost untold quantities at about
1 kilometre below the surface. Considering that every pound
of ore had formerly to be brought to the surface upon men's
backs, and that to crawl up this kilometre incline-shaft meant
hours of daily poorly-paid toil, which no peon would care
to undertake when other and less painful employment
was obtainable elsewhere, it is quite comprehensible why the

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DIFFICULT MINING 305

Spaniards had to abandon the mines when they had worked
out everything above this level But what they left untouched
has formed a magnificent legacy for their successors. It is
estimated that during the 200 years which have elapsed since
the mines were worked, an enormous amount of tonnage of
ore, the values running between 400 and 700 grammes of
silver (now deemed a handsome return), has been blocked out.

The present owners have erected a complete hydro-electric
power-transmission plant, situated in the dead centre of the
wild ravines which distinguish this particular property. It
seems almost incredible that in these savage recesses man can
have succeeded in lodging his latest machinery; but here,
nevertheless, can be found to-day ponderous generators,
weighing as much as 7 tons each, which have been dragged
along and over the steep and precipitous mountains on the
back of the patient, plodding '' burro " and there successfully
erected. The hum and throb of the machinery break the
stillness of centuries, while the blowers, hoists and smelting-
plant run day in and day out, Sundays included, on the once
almost impregnable heights of this beautiful and picturesque
region. What will not the daring of man accomplish? In
such achievements as these one is reminded of Begnard's
famous saying^: C^est dans les grands dangers qxCon voit Us
grands cowrages.

The principal problem in working these mines is that
of coal, and therefore the owners decided to put in a large
concentration plant in order to reduce the ores in the propor-
tion of about 10 to 1, thus smelting the concentrates and
marketing the bullion with only a nominal amount of coal.
Every ton of this fuel has to be hauled across the moantains
on the backs of donkeys, or in carts drawn by mules. Shortly
an entirely new and wider wagon-road will have been
completed, by means of which not alone coal, but bullion,
machinery and merchandise will be transported with greater
facility and less expense.

At present there are four separate and distinct smelting-
plants working at these mines ; but I understand that it is
intended to concentrate all these into one large central
smelter, with headquarters at Marcoin, which is situated at
the lowest level. Belt railroads to receive the ores from the

VOL. n. 41

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806 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTUBY

other mines throagh chutes and over cableways» are being
eonstmcted, while a large and modem drilling-apparatos will
make the plant quite complete and up-to-date in every
respect I may add that on the property are found some
thirty square miles of some splendid timber and agricultural
land, all of which form part of the Brani£F holdings.

Some 129 claims in Queretaro State had been registered up to
December 1906, while applications pending would bring the
number to about 140. As soon as the Braniff properties
commence to contribute regularly to the output, the figures
of the Quer6taro mines will show an appreciable advance,
and the whole State as a producer will attract more attention
probably than it has ever done befora While it is one of the
smallest of the States of the Bepublic, I consider that both
from a mineral and an agricultural point of view, it enjoys
one of the greatest chances of prosperity.

A considerable variety of minerals are to be found in Jalisco,
including silver, gold, copper, iron, lead and cinnabar. Most
of the capital embarked is American, and the number of
mining claims registered up to last year exceeded 800, cover-
ing an area of about 5,000 hectares, the total mineral pro-
duction of the State being estimated at about 100,000,000
kilos, valued at over $1,800,000 (gold). There are between
80 and 90 mines in active operation, the principal districts
being Ahualulco, which contains the mining town of
Etzatlan ; Hostotipaquillo, where the mineral resources are
being vigorously prosecuted ; Navidad, containing the Yalen-
ciana, EI Moral, Bosa Amarilla and Keystone copper mines ;
Tula, containing immense deposits of iron ore; Western
Jalisco, which has produced some of the most notable
bonanzas in the mining history of Mexico ; Ameca, where a
new field of development has been opened-up of late ; Palma-
rejo, where, however, development has made but small head-
way ; Autlan, where some powerful American interests have
lately acquired hitherto unworked prospects with a view to
development; Mascota, formerly a famous mining district^
but now allowed to fall into desuetude ; and Aranjuez, where
some very extensive deposits of ore in flat-bedded veins
{mantos) exist, but few of which have as yet been developed.

The Mexican Premier Syndicate, a recently-established

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GrANAjiATo. — Kmrance to thk rKN<;riro Tinnei..

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JALISCO MINES 807

English mining company, has entered the State of Jalisco
with a view to extensive operations, commencing with the
development of the Gachnpinas mine, in the Hostotipaqaillo
district. The Springfield Mexican Mining Go. are erecting
a mill at the Goncepcion mines in the Ayutla district, while
the Southern Pacific Bailway Go. are proposing to erect a
smelter for the capital city of Gnadalajara. Work at the
mines of the Ghatterton Go. which had been suspended for
some time has been resumed. This year Major Frederick B.
Bumham, the well-known explorer, scout and mining expert,
has visited the State of Jalisco with the idea of acquiring
mining claims on behalf of Messrs. Guggenheim and Mr. John
Hays Hammond, of New York.

In the Etzatlan district it is contemplated to open the Santo
Domingo mine; 8 tunnels have already been driven, and 8
more are under way. One of these will be an immense cross-
cut, entering the property near the Santiago Biver, and
cutting every vein at an average depth of 2,500 ft., which will
also be approximately the length of the tunnel. The report
of Mr. Charles E. Hall, of Mexico City, was very encouraging,
that gentleman claiming to have discovered ore in sight to the
value of $12,000,000 (£1,200,000).

The famous old mine San Job6 de Ventanas, in the Hostoti-
paquillo district, has recently changed hands; while the
Estados mine, belonging to a British company, is to be
developed. It is in El Favor camp, and located near Tecal-
itlan. In the Navidad camp a large cross-cut tunnel is being
driven by the Santa Lucia Mining Co., and has already
entered bonanza ore.

The State of Tamaulipas is known to contain a vast amount
of mineral wealth, but it has not yet been systematically
developed. The minerals found comprise gold, silver and
copper, as well as salt, marble, asphalt, etc. The number of
mining claims registered amount to nearly 100, covering
between 950 and 1,000 hectares. With a promise of sufiicient
capital coming into the State both from Europe and the
XJ.S.A., the mineral wealth is likely to be materially developed
within the next year or two.

In Tabasco mining receives but little attention, and while
there are indications of deposit of coal, cinnabar and petro-

41—2

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808 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

learn, a small amount of development work has taken place,
so that it is impossible to speak with any accuracy of the
future prospects of mining in this State.

Although but little explored, and at present deprived of
anything like systematic railway transport facilities, a state
of things which will shortly be greatly remedied, Sonora is
known to be one of the richest mineral sections of the
Bepublic, the leading products being silver, gold, lead,
copper, coal, antimony, iron, cinnabar and graphite. It is to
be regretted that, for the most part, the mining interests of
the State have been in very unsatisfactory hands, and so little
confidence has been felt in the principcd operators and pro-
moters that capital has hitherto been somewhat shy, and was
scarcely likely to take up Sonora mining interests under the
late regime. No doubt, the building of several new rail-
roads in the State will give some impetus to the mining
industry, and several new districts will be tapped. A customs-
smelter has already been erected at Guaymas. The amount
of British capital invested in Sonora mines at present,
including that of El Mondo (Mexico) Mining Co. and the
Barrancas, has hardly proved sufficient to encourage future
operations. The latter concern, however, recently encountered
a promising body of ore with assays from $2.50 (lOs.) to $516.50
(^51 lis.) per ton.

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CHAPTER LXXI

Minmg (continued) : The mining laws of Mexico — Moderation and
mmplifioation— Chamber of Mines — Influential management and
membership — Copper and its future as an industry— Sonora deposits
— Some shady history — Smelters and smelting interests — Monopoly
feared^The trusts in America — Free smelters in Mexico — Smelting
process — The Guggenheims — Career of M. Guggenheim.

The Mining Laws of Mexico have been pronounced by those
who have lived and worked under the mining regulations of
other countries the most enlightened and the most reasonable
in the world. As compared with the complicated laws of the
United States of America they are simplicity itself. As to
Government taxation, to what extent recent legislation (1906)
relieved it, may be gathered from the fact that the first
year's working under the new taxation made a deficiency of
some $4,000,000 to the National Treasury. Notwithstanding
the heavy deductions allowed, the mining community thought
them insufficient, and with the view to still further reductions
approached the President of the Republic in March 1906,
and he with his customary courtesy and good nature heard
their complaints and promised relief and the lifting of certain
burdensome restrictions. The specific requests preferred were
as follows :

*'l. The suppression of the 2 per cent, coinage tax on the value of
silver, established by the decree of March 27th, 1807, and its reduction to
i per cent, in the case of gold.

" 2. Beduction to cost of the duties on separating, assaying, reducing
and refining, and the application of those duties exclurively to bars of
metal presented to the mints for those operations.

** 8. Beduction from 8 per cent, stamp tax on the value of gold and
silver to 1 per cent.

" 4. Beduction of the 2 per cent. State tax on the value of the gold and
silyer to 1^ per cent.

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810 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

*' 5. Monthly fixing, by the Finance Department, of the price of silver,
copper and lead, which is to serve as baaiB for the collection of Federal
and State taxes, this price to be founded on the average quotation of
those metals on the New York market during the preceding month.

" 6. Reduction by 10 per cent, of the assay estimate in the collection o}
the duties on ores that are to be shipped from one State to another, or
exported from the Bepublic. This must be done by deducing from the
weight of the ore that of the moisture which it contains.

" 7. Reduction, from $10 to $6 per pertenencia, of the tax on gold,
silver and platinum mine titles, as established by the law of June 6th,
1892.

" 8. Reduction, from $10 to $5 per pertenencia, of the annual property
tax on gold, silver and platinum mines as established by the previously
mentioned law.

" 9. Exemption from import duties for the articles here enumerated —
sulphuric add, mercury, sulphur, coal and coke, alkaline cyanides, hypo-
sulphates, mine timber, nitrates of potash and soda, sulphate of copper,
sheet zinc for metallurgy, and machinery and apparatuses for mines and
metallurgical establishments.

** 10. Adequate protection, by the Executive, of ore-treating establish-
ments, which, employing new processes, such as cyanuration, are erected
for the treatment of low grade ores or of dump accumulations from old
mines."

Most of these requests were granted by the Government,
others were modified, and some few rejected. The taxes on
mining properties combine two kinds, one payable on the
issae of the title deeds, and the other as an annaal rental on
the mines. The first of these taxes was formerly at the rate
of $10 {£1) per pertenencia (1,000 square metres), or 2.47
acres, in the case of gold and silver mines, and $2.50 (6s.) per
pertenencia on all other mines. By the law of March 25th,
1906, this tax was made into $6.00 (lOs.) per pertenencia for
all mines, regardless of the nature of the mineral to be
exploited. The annual rental on mining properties was
formerly $10 (£1) per pertenencia on gold and silver mines,
and $2.60 (58.) per pertenencia on all other mines. By the
new law this tax is fixed at $6 (12s.) per pertenencia for all
mines when the property does not exceed twenty-five per-
tenencias, and $8 (6b.) when the property contains more than
twenty-five pertenencias.

For the current year (1906-1907) metals to the value of
JG1,600,000 will probably fall under the 8^ per cent, rates,
£7,600,000 under the 2^ per cent, rate, and £1,600,CKX) under

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CHAMBEE OP MINES 811

the 1| per cent, rate ; while £1,000,000 will be entirely free from
taxation. The Treasury would receive £262,500 at this calcula-
tion, if silver is maintained at its present level, but should it fall,
then the Government may have to put up with only £240,000.
But they do not anticipate any collapse in silver.

In May 1906 was established the first Chamber of Mines,
and to it practically every mine-owner, mine-manager and
miner belong. At its head is the distinguished Mexican advo-
cate, Sefior Lie. Pablo Martinez del Bio, and the board
of management is a powerful one. To Senor Lie. Jo86 Luis
Bequ6na, one of the directors and principal shareholders in
the famous Dos Estrellas mine, is due most of the success
achieved by the Chamber, which is proving of immense value
to the mining interests of the Republic, by co-operating with
the Grovemment in procuring legislative encouragement and
support, cleansing the industry from fraud and suspicion, and
generally building it up and maintaining it on a firm basis.
The whole subject of further reduction in the Mining Laws
was referred to the final decision of Minister of Fomento
Molina, who gave his ruling last June greatly in favour of the
Mining Chamber's petition.

It is generally admitted that, of all mining ventures, copper
is probably the safest. That our good friends, the Americans,
appreciate this fact is proved by the enormous amount of
capital which they have invested in copper undertakings
throughout the world and in Mexico particularly. The
industry in that Republic has attained of late gigantic propor-
tions, the country ranking next to Europe in the annual value
of its output. The annual production stands already above that
of Spain and Portugal combined. During the year 1906-
1907 the production, I make bold to prophesy, will have
aggregated 150,000,000 lbs., as compared with 115,000,000 lbs.
the previous year, of which amount about 120,000,000 lbs.
will go to the U.S.A« Large as this amount is, I go further
in my forecast and say that for next year the production
should be even greater. Indeed, I should not be surprised if
it amounted to 225,000,000 lbs.

The total amount of copper produced to-day is far short of
the world's demand, in spite of the fact that there exist
throughout the universe some 4,626 different copper mines,

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812 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

all of which are working at fall pressare. For 16 years past
copper has not been so dear as it is to-day, these being
veritably halcyon days for the industry. With a 20-cent
copper it is possible, I shoald think, to work at a profit almosfc
any copper proposition, and the larger mines with good grades
of ore are piling up profits so rapidly that they will shortly
not know what to do with their balance. In this remarkable
revival Mexico is fully sharing. The deposits of the metal
are enormous in extent, and are, generally speaking, easily
developed because the ore begins at the grass roots, and it is
not necessary to sink deep shafts before reaching paying-ore.

Copper is found in more or less quantities and of varying
quality in practically every State in Mexico. New copper
companies are beginning development work in numerous
directions, and for the next 5 or 6 years, at least, I believe
that the production of copper in Mexico will show substantial
increases, while the demand is, as I have intimated, not likely
to diminish.

While Mexico has nothing like such mines as the Calumet
and Hecla, which employ 7,000 men, and have paid away
$100,000,000 (£20,000,000) in dividends, or the Copper Queen
or the Bio Tinto, some remarkable properties are neverthe-
less to be met with, especially in the State of Sonora. The
various interests in that State have now been more or less
consolidated by a large amalgamation of the many valuable
properties formerly owned in whole or in part by Mr. W. G.
Greene, his principal concern being the Cananea Central
Mines. In the month of December last, a new Company
known as the Greene-Cananea Copper Co., was organised by
New Tork financiers of great strength with a capital of
$10,000,000 (£2,000,000), in which the principal organisers
were Mr. Thomas F. Cole and Mr. Tom Byan. The uncertain
financial condition of the previous owner rendered it absolutely
necessary that stronger support should be introduced, and
this has been done to the great advantage of copper-mining
in Sonora, and to the shareholders of the different concerns
generally. The Cananea Copper Mines owned by the Greene
Consolidated O)., the Phelps-Dodge Co. and the Democrata
Mining Co., are producing ore to the extent of nearly
TyOOO^OCX) lbs. of copper per month, while there are vast

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COPPER MINES 813

ranges of plant and machinery which have in erection and
maintenance involved the outlay of many millions of dollars.
While the history of copper mining in the Gananea district
has not, up till now, been particularly worthy, and has many
discreditable episodes inscribed against it, under the new
auspices, it is likely to attain, and I trust maintain, a better
reputation.

In the same State of Sonora is also located the Cineguita
Copper Co., which has erected a smelter with 4 furnaces,
rated at a daily capacity of 70 tons each, and with an actual
working capacity of more than 50 tons each. Aguascalientes
is the great centre of the copper-smelting industry of Mexico,
having a smelter with a daily capacity of 2,000 tons ; while in
the districts of Asientos and Tepezala extensive mining opera-
tions are in progress, the output of copper ore averaging 1,200
tons monthly. The Fortuna mines are producing from 800
to 1,000 tons of copper ore per month. In Coahuila, the
Mazapil Mining Co. own some valuable copper ore mines,
which are treated in their new smelter at Concepcion del Oro.
In the State of Guerrero, the Mitchell Mining Co. has a
valuable property, its bullion running about 99 per cent, fine
copper, and carrying from $12 to $16 (24s. to 82s.) in gold
and silver values. In the State of Michoac&n, the Do£La
Luisa Copper and Gold Mining Co. own La Natividad mines,
which, up till now, have not been developed, however, and
can only be regarded as promising prospects. In Western
Chiapas some 15 different engineers are working upon copper
prospects, the field being considered a particularly promis-
ing one. A rich copper strike was made near Cedral, in
the district of Match uala, San Luis Potosi, towards the
end of last year, while active work is proceeding upon the
copper mines of the Teziutl&i Co., in the State of Pudbla,
located near the borders of Veracruz State, and within reach
of the terminus of the TeziutUn branch of the Interoceanic
Railway.

The Boleo mines, in Lower California, which are owned by
the French house of Bothschild, and all the product from
which, amounting to about 10,000,000 ounces of fine copper
per annum, comes direct to England, being shipped to Fal-
mouth, are considered the second chief copper mines in

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814 MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

old Mexico. Ore valued at nearly £950,000 was shipped in
1906. The Congr^so Copper Co. of Mexico is also a Biitish
undertaking, having been registered in London as recently as
June last year with a capital of £20,500. According to
latest] advices the company, which is now under keen manage-
ment, is finding good ore in the Senado block, the returns
being 6 per cent, copper, 80 per cent, iron, and a small
amount of gold and silver.

Efforts have been made, and are not yet abandoned, to
establish a gigantic monopoly in Mexico of the smelting
interests. For the sake of the mining community at large,
and in furtherance of the Government's well-known aversion
to monopolies of any kind, it may be hoped that the attempt
will not succeed. Already the mines are groaning under the
grasping hand of some of the existing smelters ; and if this
is the case where competition to a certain extent exists, how
much more severe would it prove if the contemplated amal-
gamation were to take place and a gigantic smelting trust
became mi fait accompli ?

Smelters are, of course, indispensable, and being extremely
costly undertakings to construct and conduct, only wealthy
corporations or individuals can enter into the business. Gold,
silver, copper and lead are mostly found in Mexican, as in
other of the world*B mines, together, and must be separated
chemically and with the greatest scientific care and precision.
The process adopted to-day is the outcome of many lengthy
and costly experiments ; and while it does not probably spell
the last word in scientific treatment, it is immeasurably more
effective than the old methods of extraction. As it is, the
whole of the gold — or at least 98 per cent. — ^is secured, but
some of the silver is lost.

As soon as the copper ores are received at the smelter they
are weighed and credited to the proper owners, for the
smelters handle the product of numerous mines, and therefore
must — and do, as a matter of fact — ^keep an accurate account
of every pound of ore they receive. Sometimes they buy
the ore outright ; but all the same a faithful record of each
lot entering the smelter-yards is to be found entered in the
proper books.

After being weighed, then, and assayed, the ores are roasted

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8MELTEBS 815

for the period of 82 honrSy to eliminftte the salphnr. Then
they enter a blast-f nmace, when the crude copper is recovered
in the form of heavy bars. These pass through the refinery,
after which they are again put into the furnace emerging in
a purer — ^but still not sufficiently pure — ^form. The copper is
now found deposited in thick, heavy plates, each having a
handle moulded on the sides. The plates are transported by
means of powerful cranes to an enormous tank-room, in which
the gold and silver still contained in the plates are extracted
by means of the electrolytic process. Each plate is separately
suspended in a tank of acid side by side with a sheet of pure
copper. An electric current is sent through the tank, by
means of which the plates decompose, the copper being
deposited upon the copper sheet — or, as it is termed, the
'' cathode " — while the gold and silver fall to the bottom of
the tank. Twenty-eight days are necessary to complete this
portion of the process.

Next comes the refinement process. The copper being dis-
posed of in a perfectly pure and marketable state, the gold
and silver remain to be treated and separated. This is
effected by a long and tedious chemical and electrical process,
the silver being recovered in the form of small 8-lb. ingots,
and the gold in single bars. To produce 1,000 ozs. of pure
silver metal, 40 tons of ore have to be treated on an average,
1,000 tons for copper and 2,000 tons for gold. As an instance
of the immense amount of metal daily reduced, it may be
observed that in the American Smelter near New York City
(belonging to the American Smelting and Refining Co.) are
produced 200 tons of pure copper, 8,000 lbs. of silver and
1,000 ozs. of gold.

The Messrs. Guggenheim of New York are with the U.S.
Smelting, Befining and Mining Co. practically monopolists
of the smelting business in the north of America, and are
endeavouring to become so in Mexico. They already have
€ontrol of the immense smelters at Monterey and Aguas-
calientes, and with the extraordinary tenacity and pertinacity
of their race they may yet secure the whole monopoly —
which would be a consummation much to be deplored, and
which it may be hoped will be prevented.

The Guggenheims are a remarkable family, and fair examples

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816 MEXICO OP THE XXth OENTUEY

of the succeBBful Gennan- Americans of to-day. ArriviBg in
Philadelphia with the proverbial penny in hie pocket, the late
Meyer Guggenheim commenced life in 1847 by peddling stove
polish. It would need a thrifty German to make sufficient
money out of this apparently unprofitable occupation to save
the amount necessary to set himself up in business. But
young Guggenheim did it, just as the late Mr. Wertheimer,
of Bond Street fame, and Sir Benjamin Phillips, who became
Lord Mayor of London, did years ago on this side. Not only
did he prosper, but young Meyer Guggenheim married, and
begat seven sons. It is these seven sons who have built-up
the American smelter business with the same remarkable
skill and success that their father displayed in his career,
first as a stove-polish peddler, and afterwards as its manu-
facturer, then as a lace-embroiderer and finally as a mine-
owner. All this is distinctly to the credit of the Guggenheim
family; but their craving to become the monopolists of the
smelting interests in Mexico, as they practically are to-day
in the United States, must be discouraged. Out of the seven
sons four still remain in the smelting business, namely
Daniel (President of the American Smelting and Befining Co.),
Isaac, Murray and Solomon, Benjamin and William having
withdrawn, and Simon, a gentleman at large, travelling about
the world.

The only serious competitor to the Guggenheim Company
was the United States Smelting, Befining and Mining Co.,
and that concern, after vainly endeavouring for several
months to procure sufficient quantity of fluxing ores to run
its proposed lead smelter at Jimenez, Chihuahua, retired from
the field, leaving the American Smelting and Befining
Company masters of the situation. . Their 800 ton lead and
copper smelter at Chihuahua is almost completed and is to be
blown in November of this year. The Veta Colorado
smelter, a recently organised concern, is not unlikely to enter
into competition at first with a view to be being bought out at
a big profit. It is also rumoured that Mr. Charles M. Schwab,
formerly of the United States Steel Trust, may build an
immense smelter at Santa Eulalia, but he being a dilettante,
nothing certain can be said about him or his intentions.

The ** Trust " only reduces one-fifth of the ores of the

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<f ^

c
o

C/2

u

<

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PRINCIPAL SMELTERS 817

Republic at present, there being ontside of it many im-
portant and independent plants. These latter control aboat
14,500 tons daily, as against the Trust's 2,000 tons at the
Aguascalientes smelter and 1,000 tons at the Monterey
smelter. There are smelters in operation at Torreon,
capacity 700 tons daily; at Jimenez (Chihuahua), capacity
250 tons ; Alampos (Sonora), with 250 tons capacity ; Palmilla
(experimental), smelter belonging to Pedro Alvarado, Parr&l
(Durango) ; Guadalajara (Jalisco), 100 tons daily ; Mate-
huala (San Luis Potosi), 200 tons daily ; Oaxaca, 175 tons of
lead charge or 800 tons of copper charge daily; Mondova
(Goahuila), 400 tons daily ; Mazapil (Coahuila), 800 tons
daily ; and others of smaller capacity.

It is to be regretted that British interests in the smelting
business of Mexico have not prospered as was hoped would be
the case. The option upon the Guadalajara smelter, which
had been secured, had to be abandoned, and other schemes
of a similar nature have failed of realisation. However, in
June last the Mexican Smelting Corporation was formed in
London to acquire some 8,000 acres of land at Tapado,
Monclova, Coahuila, the centre of the coal and mining district,
and to build a smelter, etc. Several prominent capitalists are
interested in the Company, which has issued £200,0(X) deben-
tures at 6^ per cent.

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CONCLUSION

** In every work regard the writer's end,
Since none can compass more than they intend ;
And if the means be just, the conduct true.
Applause, in spite of trivial faults, is due."

Pope : Esaay on CriHcum.

Tbab by year Mezioo is becoming less and less dependant
upon foreign countries for her necessaries and luxuries alike,
and it needs no prophet to foretell that the day must come —
and come soon — when the Republic, blessed as it is v^th
conditions which are as unique as they are enviable, will be
able to compete with other countries in the markets of the
world. Labour, which is both abundant and cheap, great
natural resources, a gradually-increasing population and a
magnificent geographical advantage will all play their im-
portant rdles in Mexico's future prosperity. The United
States of America will probably feel the effects of this condition
of affairs more acutely than any other country, since it is
thence that Mexico takes so much of her present heavy
importations. But inasmuch as no inconsiderable portion
of the Bepublic's home manufactures are the outcome of
United States capital and United States enterprise, what will
be lost upon the one hand will be regained with the other by
the sister-State.

Mexico's position as a power for good was clearly demon-
strated last year when her Government was solicited, in
conjunction with that of the United States of America, to
arbitrate in the tri-comered squabble between Nicaragua,
Honduras and Salvador, while her aid was also asked, and
refused, in connection with subsequent troubles with Guate-
mala. That the Mexican President's efforts were rendered
nugatory and his advice ignored by the belligerents, who

818

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CONCLUSION 819

maintained peace only so long as it salted their purpose and
violated the solemn conditions of the " Marblehead Compact '*
at the earliest opportunity, in no way detracts from the
importance or the value of the services rendered by the
^premier Latin- American Bepublic.

To those who read History carefullyy and there are no
more thorough nor more intelligent students of the subject
than the Mexicans of to-day, much may be learned by com-
parison and reflection. That the Chief Executive of the
Bepublic has taken to heart the lesson afforded by Spanish
colonisation, is abundantly clear in the present condition of
the country. It has been recognised that the great cause
of upheaval of the Colonies against Spain was mainly fiscal
and economical. It is, therefore, to these more than to any
other aspects that the intelligent Mexican Government has
given its attention, with the very reassuring and satisfactory
results patent to all the world.

In administering the government of his country, President
Diaz and his Ministers have recognised the principle that the
burden of taxation upon the people must be as light as pos-
sible and the benefits accruing as far-reaching and as full as
possible, and I know of no country in the whole world where
this same principle has been better applied. Elsewhere I
have indicated my conviction that this state of afliairs is not
merely skin-deep, and that what appears so clearly upon the
surface of things is genuinely representative of actual con-
ditions. What has been accomplished during the past
quarter of a century in the Mexican Bepublic is a transfor-
mation and not merely a transition. Let this be clearly
understood in its real significance, exemplifying Goethe's —
" What's genuine, shall posterity inherit."

The nation which was weak is weak no longer ; the hand
of friendship and goodwill so fearfully and churlishly with-
held by all the civilised countries in the world is stretched
forth willingly and even anxiously to this new and vigorous
young Power ; confidence in her integrity, admiration for her
rulers and a sincere friendship for her people now represent
sentiments which govern Mexico's relations with the rest of
the universe.

Here I leave her, persuaded that her destiny is a high one.

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820 MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

her prosperity but on the fringe of its greatness ; glad, indeed,
to have witnessed the unfolding of a nascent power bound to
make history in the world's great doings, and mindful of the
many pleasant days passed in the peaceful seclusions of her
incomparable scenic possessions ; proud to have known, even
though slightly, and as I feel wholly insufficiently, a high-
minded, whole-souled kindly people, brave, fearless and inde-
pendent, with the making of their history all before them.

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INDEX

[Beferencea to YoL II. have the volume prefixed.]

AcAPULCO, 288, 306 ; ii, 43, 76
Adama, Lawrence P., ii., 297
Agiabampo, ii. , 116-121
Agrioultoral banks, 166

and mortgage bank, 160
Agriculture, ii., 9, 10, 18, 16, 18, 26,
87, 88, 46. 64, 61, 97, 120,
128, 126. 184. 189, 162. 166,
166. 198

Government aid to, ii, 166, 168
Affuascalientes, 262 ; ii., 1, 817
Ahumada, Colonel Miguel, Governor,

ii.62
Alaroon, Colonel M., Governor, ii., 80
Aldarsaro, Seiior A., 29, 70
Alvarado. Pedro, ii., 284,817
Ambasaadors' salaries, 127, 128, 129

and Ministers, 126
American bank, 168, 160
American-Hawaiian Steamship Co. , 299
American school, 108
Amusements. 229

Anglo-Continental Rubber Co., ii, 246
Anglo-Mexican oil-fields, ii, 18, 241
Anglo-Saxon influence, 26
Aqueducts, ii, 106
Arohbishop of Mexico, 97
Architecture, 189, 268 ; ii, 41, 76, 94,

104
Argiielles, Pedro, Governor, ii., 182, 184
Arms regulation, 87
Army, 12, 86, 41

strength, 88; ii, 90
Arrests, 86
Arsenal, national, 49
Automobiles, 186, 231 ; ii, 62
Aztec relics, 118 ; ii, 96

B^a California, ii., 66

Catholic, 168
Banco Aleman, 168

Central, 167, 168, 160

Nacional, 168, 169
Bandala. General Abraham, ii, 126
Bankws clearing-house, 160
Banking, 162 ; u., 84, 89

Corporation, International, 160

VOL. II. 821

Banking, table, 172-8
Bank, International and Mortgage,
166, 160

of Commerce and Industry, 169

of Jalisco, 167

of London and Mexico, 166, 167i
169, 160, 166 ; ii., 89

of Montreal, 169

shares premiums. 167

United States Banking Co., 167
Banks —

Bermejillo and Co., 160

Central, 167, 172

Chartered, 161

Chinese. 169

Federal Banking Co., 171

Mexico Citj Banking Co., 171

of Issue, 168

Scherer. H. and Co., 160, 171, 174 ;
ii, 188
Hugo and Co., Junr., 160, 170,
171, 174, 177

Sommer, Hermann and Co., 160
Baptist Church, 100
Barracks, Federal, 48
Bazaine, MarAichal, 64, 66
Bazar Hotel, 201
Beet-sugar, ii, 247
Benito Juarez, 1, 8, 4, 6, 9, 18, 62, 66 ;

ii., 80, 96
Berriozabal, General Felix, 64
Boardine rates, 204
Boleo Mmes, ii, 818
Borda, de la. ii., 80, 301
Botapilas, ii, 277, 280
Boundary Conventions, 21, 22
Bourohier, H. £., 177
Bowling, 280
Braniff, G. and 0., ii, 60, 808, 804. 806

Oscar J.. 170, 177; ii, 49,
177. 179. 188, 186

Thomas, 177 ; ii, 47. 160, 186
the late, 70; ii, 266
Breakwater, Manzanillo, 821
Breweries, ii, 86, 111
Bristol and Sonora Hotel, 201
British trade, ii., 222, 224

42

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822

MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

Brown, E. N., 170, 284
Bryant. G. W.. ii.. 295
BndfietB, National, 146
Boildings, Mezioo Oity, 187
Ball-fighting, 246

Cabas, 58

Cabinet, the, 29. 84
Campeche, Bay of, 810
City of, 810
State of, uL, 7
Canadian-Mexican Padfio Steamship

Co., 800
Cananea, ii, 116

Mercantile Bank of, 157
CardeniU, Lie. Miguel. Governor, ii., 88
Carlota (Charlotte), 16, 78, 119, 120 ;

ii, 77, 80
Caatilloa Elastica, ii., 244
Cathedrals, u., 96, 100, 101, 106, 126.

156
Catholic Bank. 158
Catorce, ii., 278, 808
Cattle-raising, ii. 18. 60, 72. 79, 88,
97, 108. 116, 120, 127, 129, 189, 161,
165, 167, 177
Cement, ii., 88, 85, 222
Central Insurance Co., 178

BaUway, 258-268, 809; ii, 82,
40. 42, 47, 61, 129, 146,
180, 190, 199, 216
equipment, 265
Cereals, ii.. 16. 21, 26. 88, 61. 72, 74,
78, 82. 98, 104, 108, 116, 128, 128,
185, 189, 158, 168. 176. 177, 198
Chamber of Mines, ii, 811
Chapala, Lake, 246 ; ii, 67, 78, 188,

270
Chapultepec. 12, 184
Charles iV. of Spain. 184

V. of Spain, ii, 70, 80, 262

VI. of Spain, ii, 277
Charro dress, 89, 186 ; ii., 61
Chartered banks, 161
Cheese, 11, 78

Cheroots, ii., 118

Chiapas Land and Stock Co., ii, 190

State of, ii., 7
Chichicapa Mine, ii , 289
Chicle, ii, 102, 194
Chihuahua and Pacific Railway, ii, 19

State of. 270 ; ii, 15, 166, 262,
277. 816
Chilpancingo, 251 ; ii, 44
Chinamen as domestics, 209
Chinese banks, 159
Chocolate, ii. 164
Church and State, 98

Protestant. 99, 101

Roman Catholic, 2, 4, 6. 94, 97
Cigarettes, ii, 118, 264, 286

Cigars, ii., 118, 264

City of Mexico, 181 ; ii, 69, 70

Ciuco de Mayo, 58

Ciudad Victoria, ii, 127, 182

Civil procedure, 85

foundation of, 95
Clothing factories, ii, 111
Clubs, 220; ii, 95

American, 224

British, 228

Casino Nadonal, 222

Chinese, 224

French, 224

Jockey, 222
Coaching, 246
CoahuUa and Zacateoas Railway, 291

Capital in, ii, 25
Coal, ii, 25. 89. 116. 125. 273, 278
Coal Companies, ii., 274
Coaling-station, Manzanillo, 822
Coatzacoalcos, 149. 285, 810 ; ii, 272
Cobden, Richard, 122
Cock-fighting, 248
Coooa^, 11, 22. 176, 177, 194
Coffee, ii, 11, 22, 47, 58, 108, 126,
128, 185, 189, 146, 157, 159, 161»
168, 176, 177, 196
Colima, City of, 251, 268 ; ii, 20, 6I»
78

State of, ii, 20, 169

volcano. 250 ; ii, 20. 44, 69
Colonias, 174, 188
Colonies, Mormon, ii, 18. 189, 208

state of. ii, 24, 166, 172, 208,
204
Colonists, Boer, ii, 204, 210
Comisarias, 78
Comonfort, 8. 46
Compafiia Industrial de Orizaba, iL,

258, 256, 260
Companies British, ii, 241
Congress, ii, 141
Continental Life Insurance Co., 179

Rubber Co., ii., 245
Constitution, Mexican, 6, 14

of 1867, 118
Consu^lo Mine, ii, 288
Consular matters, 185

salaries, British, 148
American, 148

service, British, 185 ; ii., 220
U.S.A.. 186
Cook, George D.. and Co., ii, 190
Copper, ii., 18, 84, 66, 116, 298, 801»

811, 812, 818
Cord6ba, ii., 185, 160, 268
Corral, Ramon, 66

Cort^, Her&an, 102, 114, 184, 807,
810 ; ii, 78. 80, 141, 148, 146, 247»
262
Cosio, Francisco Gonzalez de, ii.. 106

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INDEX

OobLo» Mannel Qonzalez de, 69, 166
Oo6t of living, 208

Cotton, ii, 26, 27, 28, 81, 40. 47, 50,
60, 78, 97, 108, 128, 185, 168,
167, 176, 198, 262

oultore, ii., 252, 268, 264, 256,
266

machinery, ii, 261

millB, ii., 60, 98, 124, 267
Courtesy, native, 212, 214
Courts, Criminal, 76, 85

Federal, 76
Courtship. 194
Creel, Enrique C, Ez-Govemor, ii, 17.

164, 210. 280
Criminal statistics, 77 ; ii, 87
Cradfiz, the, 98
Cuba cattle trade, ii, 169

tobacco, ii., 268
Cuemavaca, 174, 266 ; ii.. 247
Cuevas. Jos^ M. Ee^inosa y. Governor,

ii. 109, 118
Currency reform, 146
Customs, 191, 218
CuyutUn, 818 ; ii., 21

Daily Record, 116

Dams and reservoirs, ii, 178, 179, 188,

184
Debt. National, 148, 150
Declaration of Independence, 1
Dehesa Teodoro, A., Governor, ii., 146
Departments of Government, 80
Deeouento Espanol. 168, 160
Diaz, General Porfirio, 10. 11, 18, 18,
29, 84. 61, 92, 102, 802,
817; ii, 74, 89, 101, 150,
161, 216, 267
and United States, 24
as President, 67
retirement of. 65

Madame Carmelita Bubio, 29, 64

Colonel Felix, 90
Dickinson, E., 277
Dictators, 8, 9
Diplomats, 122
Distribution of Army, 41
Divisions, territorial, 83
Divorce, 192
Docks, National, 49
Dogs, breeding of, ii, 172
Dolores, ii., 281
Dominion, Spanish, 1
Donkeys, breeding of, ii., 171
Doe Estrellas Mines, ii, 800, 811
Dos Rice Planters' Association, ii., 188

Plantation Co., ii, 189
Drake, Francis, ii., 148
Drawn-work, ii, 5
Durango. Mines of, ii, 801

State of, ii, 87, 41, 166

Eagle Pass, ii., 169
Earthquakes, ii., 44
Education, 102 ; u., 68, 106, 110, 118,
146, 168
religious, 105
Eizaffuirre, Andr^. ii.. 268
E;jutla Railway. 288
El Buen Tono Co., ii., 266, 266. 267.

268
Elder, Dempster and Co., 800
Electrical power plant, 162, 288 ; ii.,

49, 60, 64, 186, 186, 297
El Imparcial, 116
El Oro Mining and RaUway Co., ii,

241 299
El Paso, ii., 169, 245
Emigration, 20
Emperors, 7, 10

Empire, Maximilian, 16, 16, 17, 18
Esoobedo. 17. 18

Esperanza Mines, ii., 241, 279, 299
Etiquette, 198

Europeans in Mexico, ii., 206
Executive power, 80
Exhibition, San L. P., ii, 198

Federal Banking Co., 171

District of Mexico, ii., 69, 77, 97,
122
Schools in, 106

Government, 84 ; ii, 102, 182
Ferfiandez, Justino, 68

Leandro, 69

lac. Esteban, Governor, ii, 40
Fibrous plants, ii, 196
Financial history, 149
First Declaration of Independence. 1
Flour Mills, ii, 31, 84, 111, 180
Fodder plants, ii, 196
Forces, 86
Foreign Debt, 147
Foreigners in Mexico, 19, 28
Forster, Hon. J. W., 128
Foumier, Francois J., ii, 800
Fourth Estate, the. 116
Free Traders, 122
French Capital, 168
French in Mexico, 64
Fricke, Albert. 169
Fronton, 229
Fruit cultivation, ii, 197
Furber, Messrs., ii, 270, 278
Furniture factories, ii, 112, 221

Galveston Harbour, 808, 819
Geological Congress, ii, 273
German Bank, 158, 160
Imperial line. 801
Gillow, Archbishop, ii., 96
Gillow Hotel, 201
Goat-raising, ii, 170

42—2

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824

MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTUEY

Golf, 229

Gonzalez, Manael, 67

Gottachalk, A. L. M., 143, 144 ; iL,

188, 219
Goyemment, Federal, 82

forxnB of, 7

oflSdals, 210

orchestras, 109
Goyemors, Military, 1

State, 82
Grimwood, A., and Co., 299, 800 ; IL,

222
Goadaligara, 268 ; ii., 61, 65, 90, 817
Guanaceyi Co., iL, 241
Guanajuato, City of, iL, 47, 54, 67, 276

Ainalgamated Gold Mhies Co., iL,
297

Consolidated Mining and Milling
Co., iL, 295

Development Co., ii., 188

Mines, iL, 294-297

Power and Electric Co. , ii., 297

Beduction and Mines Co., iL, 296

River Gold Mining Co., ii.. 295

State of, ii., 46, 78, 158, 166

Tramways, 286
Guano, iL, 200
Guardiola, 201
Guaymas, iL, 117

Guayule, iL, 29. 153, 177, 244, 245
Guernsey, Frederick B.. 114, 186
Guerrero, State of; iL, 41, 158. 164
Guggenheims, the, iL, 245, 801, 815,

816
Gunboats, 48

Hadendado, the, ii., 178, 254
Haciendas, iL, 173, 177. 248. 258, 258

life on, 178
Ham, George I., 167, 179
Hamburg- American line, 301
Harrison line, 801
Hatfield, John, 177, 179
Hats. iL, 84
Hawldns. John, iL, 148
Hearst, W. H., iL, 278, 282
Henequ^n, ii., 13, 56, 102, 129, 149,

151, 176, 195
Herrandura Fruit Co., ii., 197
Hidalgo, iL, 49, 71, 75, 88

State of, ii.,49. 58
Hog-raising, iL, 171, 177
Home life, 190, 198
Honey, Thomas P., ii., 241
Horses, Army. 46
Hospitals, 225 ; iL,84, 101
Hotel, Palace, 201

Popo Park. 251

Provincial, 202

Beforma, 200

St. Francis, 200

Hotel Sanz, 200

Hotels, u., 85, 65, 67, 88, 109, 147

want of, 198
Hiibbe, Anton, 171
Hudson, Paul, 114. 171

C. B., 171, 268
Huitzilopochtli, 181
Humboldt, Baron von, 20 ; iL, 70, 149,

277
Hyslop, James, ii., 284

Ibafiez and Prieto, 160
Immigration, 20; ii., 202, 203, 210

undesirable, iL, 209, 211
Imports from U.S.A., 218, 219
Independence, Declmtion of, 2; iL,

75
* Indian President,' 55
Indi^. iL, 18

Inquisition, Holy, 96 ; iL, 76
Inspector-General of Police, 90
Instruction, Military, 42
Insurance, British. 177

Mexican Title, 177-179
International and Mortgage Bank, 155

Banking Corporation, 160

Bailway, 281
Interoceanic Bailway, 281, 805
Intervention, American, 22
Iron, ii.. 88

Irrigation, iL. 177, 180, 181, 184, 185
Issues, Government, 149, 151
Isthmus of Tehuantepec, 315
Italians, ii., 210
Iturbide.201. 216
Iztaocihuatl, 181 ; iL, 100, 124
Iztie, ii., 88. 107, 120, 180, 195

Jalapa, iL, 141, 144
Jalisco, 807 ; iL, 59, 73

Bank of, 157

Mines of, iL, 806

State of. 59 ; iL, 158, 166, 269
Jalpa, ii., 177, 188
Jamauve, Valley of. iL. 127
Jamiltepeo, 58
Japanese, iL. 209
Jardin Hotel, 201
Jerome, Lucian J., 187
Jimenez, 262 ; iL. 282, 316, 817
Jockey Club, 222, 229
Juarez Agricultunl School, iL, 198
Juarez, Benito, 1. 8, 4, 5. 9, 18
Judges, District and Circuit, 75
Judicial power, 74
Juries, 75
Jury, trial by, 81

Kansas City, Mexico and Orient Rail-
way. 269. 314 ; ii.. 271, 281, 282
Kennedy, George, 188

Digitized by

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INDEX

325

La Bam, li. 131

Labour, ii, 51, 78. 86, 118. 175, 208.

214, 215, 217, 247, 251, 257, 260
Landa y Esoandon, Q., Goyernor, 29.

68. 79, 184. 170, 177
Land Companies, iL, 121. 188, 189, 190,
191. 204

price of. ii., 88. 98, 171, 191, 208
Lana-porchase soheme, iL, 17, 188

▼alneof. ii. 28, 192
La Paz, ii., 57, 58
Latin- American Mutual Assurance, 177

trade, ii. 218
Lavie et Gie, 160
Legation, Austria-Hungarian, 181

Belg^, 182

Brazilian, 180

British, 180

French, 181

German, 180

Italian, 180

Japanese, 138

Mexican, in London, 134

Russian, 132

Salvadoran. 131

Spanish, 182
Legislatiye power. 31
Leon, City of, ii, 49
Levland and Co., 801
Lioertv of the subject, 88
Libranes, 120 ; ii. 101, 110. 145
Life Insurance, 175

American Companies, 175
New York Mutual, 176
Limantour, Selior J. T., 29, 68, 67,

152. 222. 266
Limantour. Julio M., 69, 177 ; ii.,

241
Loans, State, 151

London Commercial Banking Co.. 159
Lopez, Mi^el. 17, 18
Lower California, ii., 56
Lumber, u., 8, 102. 126, 127, 130,139,

148, 151
Luther. A. B., ii, 248

MaoDonald, Bernard, ii., 296

M. £., ii,296
Mao^o, Pablo. 177
Machinery, agricultural, ii, 193
Madrid, £. 0. de la, Governor, ii., 22
Maguey plant, ii., 201
Mallory Line, 298
Manzanillo, Bay. beauties of. 322

Port of. 268, 317; ii, 21. 62,
121
Marisoal, Sefior Ignaoio, 29, 69
Marquez. 58
Marriage, 195

Martinez, General. Governor, ii, 101
Matamoras. 268

MaTiTnilian, 8. 10. 15, 18, 119, 120,
148, 184.216; ii, 77, 80. 105.
146
execution of. 18
Maya tribe, ii., 102
Mazapil Copper Co., ii., 94, 285, 298.

MazatUn.807; ii, 120
MoElhiney, G. W., ii., 295
Medical fees. 227
Mqia, General, 18 ; ii, 105
Mercado, Alejandro-Vasquez del. ii, 6
Merida, 310 ; ii., 9, 149
Methodist Episcopal Church, 100
Mexican Agricultural Land Co. , ii, 210

Bank of Commerce and Industry,
171

Central Railway, 258-268 ; ii., 82..
40, 42, 47, 61, 129. 145, 180,
190-199, 216. 271

Consolidated Electric Co., 238

ootton estates, ii, 258

Gulf Agricultural Co., ii, 188
Mexican Herald, 114. 171
Mexican Light and Power Co.. 152,
283 ; ii.. 98. 185, 186

Plantation Co., ii., 188

Petroleum Co., 271

BaHway, 71, 78, 278. 805 ; ii., 140,
145. 187, 241

Smelting Corporation, ii, 317

Southern Railway. 280. 288 ; ii,
91, 98, 99. 190. 241

Title Insurance Co.. 177, 179

Tramways Co.. 171, 232 ; ii. 186

Tropical Fruit Co., ii, 197

Tropical Planters' Co., ii., 250

^oungman, 191
Mexicans and I^gyptians, 211
Mexioo City. 181 ; ii., 59. 70, 128

City Banking Co.. 171

SUteof. ii., 69. 158
Michoacdn. ii. 21, 78. 158. 166
Militaiy Governors, 1

instruction. 42

schools, 43
Minatitldn, ii., 272
Mineral Development Co.. ii.296
Minerals, ii., 2. 25, 89. 42, 139, 154
Mines, Chamber of, ii., 311
Mining,' ii, 25, 26, 46,54,56, 61, 75,
85. 88, 98, 103. 104. 107, 123,
125, 134, 276-817

Exhibition, ii.. 279

laws, ii, 809

School, ii, 278
Mint, Government, ii., 279
Miramon, General, 18 ; ii. . 105
Mitla, 58
MixtequiUa, 53
Moctezuma, ii, 122

Digitized by

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826

MEXICO OF THE XXth CENTURY

Mootesmna Orange and Banana Co.,

ii, 198
Modem Mexico, 116
Molanee, ii., 78
Molina, 01ef;ario» 60 ; ii.. 811
Mondova, ii., 817
Monterey, 805 ; il, 85. 81. 188, 199,

817
Monterey Neufs, iL, 88
Moroom. Walter. 280
Morilia, City of, ii.. 60. 76
Morfloe, 807 ; ii.. 60, 158, 198

Jo«6 Maria, ii.. 75
MorkilL W., 281
MnlesTbreeding of, ii, 171
Morphy, George H., 144
Moeeo iNadonal, 118
MoeeumB, 118 ; ii, 95
Mutoal life. New York, 176. 220
Mutoal Planters Co., ii., 198

National Bank. 154, 155, 157, 158;
u., 85

Debt, 148

Finance, 145

Guard, 58

Life Inenranee Co.. 178

lines, 281. 806

Railway. 200, 281, 809 ; ii., 808

Tehnantepec, 284
Natiye steamship lines. 808. 804

talent. 109
Naval School, 50
Nayy, 85, 48
Newspapers, 118, 116
Negates, ii.. 117
Nueyo Le<in, State of, ii. 81, 158

Oaxaca. 58. 54, 56, 57. 288 ; ii. 91, 94

goats in, ii, 170

Mines, u.. 286-298

Railway, 288; ii, 292

State of. 91 ; ii. 158, 166. 269
OcatUkn,ii.. 122,287
October 8rd, 1865, Law, 60
OfBoers, grades of, 86
OU-fields, ii. 11, 58, 140, 241. 269. 271
Onyx, ii, 99. 100, 292
Opals, ii, 104. 189
Orizaba, ii.. 100, 142, 146, 216
Oznam, T. H., ii, 281

Pachnca, ii., 54, 55. 276. 278, 802
Pacific Mail Steamship Co., 299

Coast Steamship Co., 299
Packing-houses, ii, 85, 171
Palace Hotel, 201
Palenque Ruins, ii, 14
Palmarejo, ii, 278. 281
Panama Canal. 816
Pan-American Railway, ii., 18, 14

Pankhurst, Ednaido, Goyemor, ii, 153,

278
Paper Mills, ii, 31, 124
PanAl. ii, 277, 280, 288, 817
Parsons, the late J. A«, ii, 188, 219,

220
Paste de la Reforma, 181. 185, 200 ;

ii. 192
Paul. Herbert. 8
Peace, prospects of, 11
Pearl fisheries, ii, 58
Pearson and Son, S., Ltd., ii. 11, 126,

144. 185. 241. 270, 271, 272
Peasant proprietorship, ii, 207
Pengoioo, SI, ii, 294
Peftoles. ii, 286

Peon. 18. 117 ; ii. 65. 176. 207. 212
Peregrina Mining and M^iHii'g Co., ii,

295
Perkins, H. L., 159
Pests, ii, 45, 77
Petroleum, ii, 11, 58, 140, 241, 269,

271
Philip IL of Spain, ii, 20
Pita, ii., 195

Plantations, ii. 2, 28, 54, 60, 78, 103,
116, 128, 189. 146, 161, 244
Companies, ii., 161. 162, 163, 188,
189. 190
Playing bear, 194
Pleasure resorts, 215
Police, Classes of; 88
Political parties, 14
Political situation, 11
Popocatapetl, 181, 251, 815 ; ii, 71,
78, 100, 124
climbing, 251
Popidation. statistics of, 19 ; ii, 8. 7.
14. 15. 20. 87. 41. 53. 57. 59. 82.
124. 126. 152
Populations :

Oiudad Victoria, ii, 182
Nueyo Le<Sn, ii, 81
Oaxaca. ii, 91
Orizaba, ii, 142
San Bias, ii, 186
San Luis Potosi, ii, 107
Sinaloa, ii., 119
Tlaxcala,ii,122
Veracruz, ii, 138
Port and Harbour Works, 149
Porters, 201

Ports and Harbours, 805
Alyarado, 806
Oampeche. 805
Champot6n, 306
Coatzaooalcos (Port Mexico), 306,

310; ii,243
Guaymas, 814
Isla Aguada, 806
lillo, 817

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INDEX

827

Forts and Harbours (continued) :

Mazatl&n, 307

Mezioo (Coatzacoalcos}, 806, 810 ;
ii., 248

Mor^loB, 806

Nantla. 806

Progrte, 806 ; ii., 150, 196

San Benito, ii., 14

San Bias, 814 ; ii., 186

Tampico, 805

Topolobampo, 270, 272, 278, 807,
814; ii.,121

Veracruz, 806
President Porfirio Diaz, 67

and United States, 24
Presidents, 8. 9, 10
Press, the first^ 111
Prison regolations, 79
Prisons, 88, 86 ; ii., 101, 148
Protestant Ohorch, 101
PabHoland, ii.. 192
Pn^bla, Battle of. 54

City of, ii., 71. 98, 97, 123

Mines of, ii., 802

Siege of, 68

State of, ii, 97, 158, 166, 274

Tramways Light and Power Co.,
ii, 186
Pofidbet, E., ii., 268
PoDmanCk)., 264
Polque, ii, 31, 61, 78, 97, 108, 123,

176, 201
Poroell, William, and Go., 291 ; ii., 28,
80, 84, 172, 255, 284, 298

Qner^taro, 18 ; ii., 78
Mines of, 808-806
State of, ii, 78, 108, 158

Quetzalooatl, 181

Qointana Boo, ii, 102

Babasa, Bamon. Governor, ii, 10

Baoing, 280

BaUway, Central, 171 ; ii., 82, 40, 42,

47, 61, 129, 145, 190, 199, 216,

271
Interooeanio, 150, 805 ; ii, 48, 79,

124, 145, 241. 271
Kansas City. Mezioo and Orient,

269 ; u., 19, 121, 271, 281
Mexican, 288, 805 ; ii, 54, 79, 146,

187, 241
National, 150, 170, 266, 287 ; ii,

82, 48, 48, 86, 109
Southern, 150, 280, 288 ; ii., 91,

98, 99, 190, 241
Bailways, ii.. 9. 14. 19. 22. 80. 86, 40,

61, 72, 79, 85, 98, 99, 109, 186,

149, 164, 222
and Colonists, ii., 209
Cananea, Bio Yaqui, 286

Bailways (conHwu^i) :
Cuemavaca, ii., 42
Government purchase, 266
ffidalgo and W. W., ii., 54
International, 285 ; ii, 82, 40,121
Mexican Northern, ii, 19, 82
Mexican Pacific, 286

minor, 298, 294, 295, 296
Oaxaca, 288 ; ii, 292
Pan-American, 290 ; ii, 190
Parrdl and Durango Bailway, ii,

40
Bio Grande Sierra Madre and

Pacific, ii, 19
Southern Pacific, 286 ; ii., 121
St. Louis, Brownsville and Mexico,

ii,188
Tehuantepec National, 266 ; ii., 92
Veracruz and Pacific, 288 ; ii, 292
Yucat4n« United Bailways of, ii,
9, 149. 150

Bamon Babasa, Governor, ii. 10

Beal del Monte, ii., 278

Beform. Consular, 181

Beforma Hotel, 200

B^nts, 7, 9

Belios, Aztec, 118

Beligious Brotherhoods, 1

Bentals, 204

Bequ^na, J. L., 177, 179 ; ii., 811

Bestaurants, 201

Bevolutionary movements, 22

Beyes, General Bernardo, 68 ; ii, 89

Bibon, Martin J., 169, 170

Bice,ii,78, 186, 177, 194

Bickards, Constantino, ii, 289, 290, 298

Bio Benito Plantation Co., ii, 188

Bio del Pablo, Martinez ii, 811

Biots, ii, 257

Bobertson, Colonel J. A., ii, 82

Bobinson, A. A., 171, 267

Bodriguez, L., Governor, ii, 54

Boiling-stock, shortage. 265, 289

Boman Catholic Churoh, 2, 4, 6

Boyal Auditors, 1

Boyal Mail Steam Packet Co., 800

Bobber, u., 13, 29, 84, 86, 126, 186,
158. 177, 242
Companies, ii., 205, 206, 246, 246
prices of, ii, 244

Bubio Plantation, ii., 248

Budolfi, Monsignor, 95, 214

Buins, 255, 257 ; ii., 80
Cholula, 257
Mitia. 255 ; ii, 14
Palenque, 257

Bum, ii., 88, 107

Bural police, 38

Burales of the State, 45
del Federacion, 39

Bussell, Lord, 8

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828

MEXICO OP THE XXth CENTURY

Swldlery, 89, 47

St. Louis, Brownsville and Mexico

Railway, 2681
Salina Oniz, 285, 811, 812, 818 : ii., 92
Salinas of Mexico , Ltd., ii, 241
San Bias, 814
San Carlos Hotel 204
San Francisco del Oro, ii, 284
San Isidro ranch, ii., 188, 294, 295
San Juan Bantista, ii., 126
Sttn Jnan de Ulia, 49 ; ii, 148
San Luis Potosi, 262, 805; ii, 107,
188. 158, 166, 278

Mines of, ii, 802, 817
Santa Ana, 58

Santa Enklia, ii, 280, 282, 816
Scherer and Ck)., H., 160, 174 ; ii, 188
School, Naval, 50

of Mines, ii, 277, 278
Schools, 108: ii, 82, 101, 106. 110,
145, 158, 198, 277, 278

miHtary, 43

system, 104
Segura, Braniff and Co., ii, 186
Serafini, Monsignor, 94
Servant question, 208

Sierra Madre Land and Lumber Co.,

ii,190
Silk culture, ii,262|
Simonds, Louis C, 115
Sinaloa, 807 ; ii., 119

Su^Oo., ii, 250
Sirtoa Mines, ii, 296
Smelters, 84, 86; ii., 85, 291, 801,

814, 815
Smelting process, ii, 814, 815
Smoking and tobacco, 197; ii, 268,

264, 265, 267, 268
Smoot, Oolonel Edgar E., 168, 808,

817, 818
Societies, Learned, 121
Soouner, Hermann and Go., 160
Sonora, 815 ; ii, 115
Mines of, ii, 808
sunset in, 815
Spanish ball, 280
dominion, 1
Speyerand Co., 169
Sport, 240 ; u., 69, 184
State banks, 156. 157

Loans, 151
Steamship lines, 297; ii., 57, 126. 180,
186, 150
American • Hawaiian Steamship

Ck>.. 299
Oanadian-Mexican Steamship Oo.,

801
Elder, Dempster and Ck>., 800
Galveston- xucat^ Steamship Co.,
299

Steamship lines (continued) :

Hamourg- American, 801 ; ii. 04

Harrison, 801

Eosmos, 802

F. Leyland and Co., 801

Liverpool Steamship Co., 801

Mexicsn-American, 299

Munson, 299

Neptune Steamship Co., 299

Pacific Coast Steamship Co., 299

Pacific Mail Steamship Co., 299 ;
u., 44, 94

Roland, 802

Royal MaQ Steam Packet Co., 80a

Texas Mail Steamship Co., 299

Ward, 298

Wolvin, 298
Steel manufacture, ii , 85
Stillwell, Arthur E., 274, 275, 276, 277
Street cries, 212

names, 217
Strikes, ii, 215, 216
Sugar, ii., 12. 58. 59, 72, 78, 88, 108,
116, 120, 128. 184, 189, 140,
146, 158, 167, 162, 176, 177,
247, 249

Mills, ii, 81, 78, 250

Syndicates, ii., 250
Sunset on Lake Chapala, 249
Supreme counsellors, 7

Court of Justice, 81

Government, 7
Sweet potatoes, ii, 177
Sylvester, W. W., 277

Tabasco and Chiapas Tiading and
Transportation Co., ii., 189

Mines of, ii, 808

State of. ii., 124,158
Tamaulipas, Mines of, ii, 807

State of, ii., 127, 158, 166, 171,
191, 204
Tampico, 149, 262, 809 ; u., 118. 127»

129, 189, 198, 204
Tampico-Tuxpan Canal, 809
Tarahumara Indian tribes, ii, 17
Tarpon fishing, 240 ; ii., 184
Taviohe, ii, 286, 287, 288, 289
Taxation of land!, ii., 191
Taxes, 186
Tecoac, 56
Tehuacan, 200

Tehuantepec, Isthmus of. ii., 12, 206,
292

National Railway, 266, 291, 810

Rubber Co., ii., 243
Tehuicingo, 54
Tejada, Lerdo de, 55, 56,
Tepalcates. 818
Topic. 807

Territory of. ii, 184

Digitized by

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INDEX

829

Territorial dirisions, 88

Territory, oeeeion of. 28

Tezooeo, Lake, iL, 184

Theatres, 220. 227

Thompeon. Hon. Darid, 180

Tlaxcala, ii, 122, 168

Tobaooo. uL, 12. 58. 61. 97, 103,
118, 116. 125. 128, 189. 157, 176,
198. 268, 265. 267, 268
mach^eiT, ii.. 267

Tolteo relics, 118 ; ii.. 95

Toluoa. City of, ii, 59, 69, 261

Topo Chioo, ii, 86

Topolobampo, 270. 272, 807, 814 ; ii,

Torreon. 262 ; ii.. 32. 85, 86, 817
Totolapto, ii, 286, 289
Tourists and their methods, 27
Tower. Hon. B^^inald T., 126, 129
Trade, Agoascalientes. ii, 4

with Great Britain, ii, 222, 224

with U.S. A., ii, 218
Training-ships, 49
Tramways, 282, 283. 234. 235, 286 ;

ii..6, 65, 72, 94.110, 124. 155
Tuberculosis, ii , 142
Tnzpan, 268, 809; ii, 61, 181
Tnztla GntiarTez, ii, 14

T7b^ Plantation Co., ii, 188
United Fruit Co., ii, 197
United States and Mexico, 21

and Mexican Trust, 174, 276

and President Diaz, 24

Banking Co., 167

Rubber Co., ii, 246

Smelting, Refining and Mining Co. ,
ii., 316

war with, 22, 28
Uniyersity, National, 107

Vanilla, ii.. 177. 195
Yentanas. 818

Veracruz, 805, 809 ; ii, 11, 78, 138,
158. 166. 195, 206, 247

and Pacific Railroad, 288

Port, trade of, ii, 140

terminals, 288
Viceroys, 1

Vichaohi Mine, ii, 288, 289
Vioso, General, 54
Vogel, Arnold, ii., 22
Volcanoes, 250 ; ii., 20, 44, 59, 188
Volunteers, 88

Walker, James, 166, 169, 170
Ward line, 298
Warner, J. H., 177, 179
Waterson gold, ii, 280
Waterworks, ii, 84, 88, 110, 298
Watson. M. V., 276
Westinghouse Co., ii., 50, 187
Wheatly, W. W., 171. 177, 179, 238.

235
Wiley. J. W.,ii.,270
Woollen mills, ii, 60, 78, 136, 262
Wyke, Sir Charles, 3

Yaaui tribes, u, 115. 148
Yellow fever, ii, 142
Yturbide, 7, 18 ; ii. 75, 101
Yucatan. 310 ; ii., 102, 148, 196

State, 166

United Railways of, ii., 9

Zaoatocas, ii, 152, 166, 278, 285

Mines of, ii, 298
Zaragoza, General Ignado, 54; ii.,

101
Zocatan. ii., 196
Zumamga, Juan de, 96

THB BND

BILLUIO AMD SOBB, LID^, PBlimBS, QUILDTOBD

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